# what is a good rope for not binding with a blakes hitch



## echo271 (May 19, 2012)

I'm currently using 13mm arbor plex for climbing and it has a tendancy to bind up after being loaded what would be a better choice for future purchase of rope ?


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## Greener (May 20, 2012)

Any high quality 16-strand should do ok under a load. I have had good luck with Samson blue streak, but arbormaster and bigfoot (also Samson) are good. There are better out there, but these are reasonably priced and have minimal stretch.


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## Carburetorless (May 20, 2012)

echo271 said:


> I'm currently using 13mm arbor plex for climbing and it has a tendancy to bind up after being loaded what would be a better choice for future purchase of rope ?



Have you tried adding an extra wrap to your Blake's?


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## echo271 (May 20, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> Have you tried adding an extra wrap to your Blake's?



I added a extra wrap and still bound up I only weigh 140. I thought maybe I was tieing my hitch wrong so I went to animatedknots.com as far as I know I'm tieing the knot correctly so thought maybe a different rope would be a better choice


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## Saw Dust Smoken (May 20, 2012)

*To wrap or not*

I'm 210 before putting any gear on. Started with traditional blakes. Then changed to a modified blakes. Less wraps but under one or two with tail. Tree MD had a nice way to ty a prussic with tail also. Check it out!


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## tree md (May 20, 2012)

The Blakes is a tried and true traditional knot, no doubt. I bet there are still more climbers climbing on that knot than any other out there. However, I never did like the blakes. I was made to climb on it for awhile with one service I worked for when I was younger and grew to hate that knot. It never ran very smooth for me. I was originally taught to climb on an open prussic which I have found to run smoother than any traditional knot I have ever used. It works on pretty much any line as well. I still climb on this knot as a secondary when I double crotch and use two climbing systems.

I know that this does not answer your original question but give this knot a shot and see if it doesn't resolve your issue before you go drop a bill or better on another line:


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## ROPECLIMBER (May 21, 2012)

Are you using the rope as the friction knot? Arbor plex tends to calapes and get out of round, try a good 16 strand rope I like safty blue, and a good split tail, also on blakes hitch don't set the knot as hard, when you pull the tail up through, when you tye dress and set the knot, I learned on a open prusic too, and still tye it on long desents the 3/2 fits my hand and keeps my fingers off the running end and it doesnt heat all in one spot like the blakes does, the worst for the arborplex is the taunt line I had hell with it binding up, be carefull if the arborplex is old and stiff and out of round if you go to a shiny new splittail could be a butbumper,
Paul

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2h3AtQnykY&feature=channel&list=UL


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## echo271 (May 21, 2012)

Thank you all for the great advice especially ropeclimber for the vide. Although I really like my rope I think that is time to upgrade to a rope that better suits my needs.


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## formationrx (May 21, 2012)

*master it...*

keep practicing... over time you will know how to keep the correct pressure on that hitch... then you can use it all day without it freezing up on ya.... and it wont be coming loose and slipping on you...


get rid of that #### rope (or use it for a lowering line).... and buy yourself some true blue or arbor master line (blue or gold streak)


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## tree md (May 21, 2012)

As far as a new line goes, I second safety blue. Solid line, reasonably priced, very knotable, works with pretty much any traditional rig and is sturdy enough to make an excellent light rigging line after you retire it from climbing. I climbed on that line for years.


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## Greener (Jun 9, 2012)

tree md said:


> The Blakes is a tried and true traditional knot, no doubt. I bet there are still more climbers climbing on that knot than any other out there. However, I never did like the blakes. I was made to climb on it for awhile with one service I worked for when I was younger and grew to hate that knot. It never ran very smooth for me. I was originally taught to climb on an open prussic which I have found to run smoother than any traditional knot I have ever used. It works on pretty much any line as well. I still climb on this knot as a secondary when I double crotch and use two climbing systems.
> 
> I know that this does not answer your original question but give this knot a shot and see if it doesn't resolve your issue before you go drop a bill or better on another line:



Ok. I am primarily a spike climber-removal only. But for broad trees, I have been a tautline, then a blake guy, for years. But I tried this one out and it's good. Now I know how you got your name, Doc (MD). Thanks.


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## VA-Sawyer (Jun 9, 2012)

If you take a close look at the photo, I belive he tied it in Poisin Ivy. Now, that is a good rope to climb on!

Rick


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## echo271 (Jun 9, 2012)

I've heard a lot about poison ivy line I'm just getting used to climbing with 1/2 inch line still not too sure of the smaller diameter till I get better which shouldn't be long because my buisiness is starting to take off finally


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## Incomplete (Jun 9, 2012)

The Blake ran like a champ on Yale's XTC Fire this afternoon (my first go round with it). But for some reason, the Tautline would not bight at all on it, no matter how well I dressed and set it. Gonna look into Doc's open prusick


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## Incomplete (Jun 9, 2012)

tree md said:


> The Blakes is a tried and true traditional knot, no doubt. I bet there are still more climbers climbing on that knot than any other out there. However, I never did like the blakes. I was made to climb on it for awhile with one service I worked for when I was younger and grew to hate that knot. It never ran very smooth for me. I was originally taught to climb on an open prussic which I have found to run smoother than any traditional knot I have ever used. It works on pretty much any line as well. I still climb on this knot as a secondary when I double crotch and use two climbing systems.
> 
> I know that this does not answer your original question but give this knot a shot and see if it doesn't resolve your issue before you go drop a bill or better on another line:



Any way us green-horns could see this knot on harness?


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## Carburetorless (Jun 9, 2012)

echo271 said:


> I've heard a lot about poison ivy line I'm just getting used to climbing with 1/2 inch line still not too sure of the smaller diameter till I get better which shouldn't be long because my buisiness is starting to take off finally



My next climbing line is going to be Poison Hi-vy, same as the PI only higher visibility, about the same diameter as my Lava Rope Boss, which works well with a Blake's, seldom needs dressing unless it's humid.

The RB glazes pretty easily if you zip down the line too fast, but there's plenty of rope there to handle it, just scratch it off and keep using it til you can't get your hitch past the fuzzies.


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## VA-Sawyer (Jun 10, 2012)

Bull Crap ALERT! Scraping the glaze off a climbing line is DUMB! It doesn't fix anything, just does damage to the cover. Clueless, if you want to kill yourself no problem, but don't go suggesting such stupid stuff to new guys that could be hurt by listening to you. 

Don't glaze the rope to begin with. Read the manufactures inspection instructions. Every one I have seen says burned/glazed areas are cause for rejection.

I have a PI climb line just over a year old and not one glaze spot anywhere on it. A few minor ( and allowable ) picks only. Just use your head when descending.

Rick


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## Carburetorless (Jun 10, 2012)

VA-Sawyer said:


> Bull Crap ALERT! Scraping the glaze off a climbing line is DUMB! It doesn't fix anything, just does damage to the cover. Clueless, if you want to kill yourself no problem, but don't go suggesting such stupid stuff to new guys that could be hurt by listening to you.
> 
> Don't glaze the rope to begin with. Read the manufactures inspection instructions. Every one I have seen says burned/glazed areas are cause for rejection.
> 
> ...



No you don't glaze the rope, you glaze the split tail. When it gets so bad that you can't tie it, then it's time to replace it.

But if you use your head to descend you'll glaze your skull, and your head will swell up so big you can't get your helmet on, and even if you do manage to get your helmet on your head will end up getting hung up in the branches.


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## fir (Jun 10, 2012)

look up the blue moon


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## VA-Sawyer (Jun 10, 2012)

Clueless Carby,

You just don't get it, do you? A lot of climbers using a Blakes are climbing old style ( no split tail ). When one end wears a bit, they swap ends. Heat damaged fibers are extreamly weak ( notice how easy they peel from their neighbors ? ). Do you really think it would be a good idea having that weak area on a lifeline ? It is impossible to tell where the heat damage ends just by looking at the fibers.

As for using your head to descend on......... I said "Just use your head when descending." Not for descending. It sounds like you did your normal mis-read and landed on your head. I will have to remember to consider your 'handicap' when posting future instructions.

Rick


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## Carburetorless (Jun 10, 2012)

VA-Sawyer said:


> A lot of climbers using a Blakes are climbing old style ( no split tail ). When one end wears a bit, they swap ends. Heat damaged fibers are extreamly weak ( notice how easy they peel from their neighbors ? ). Do you really think it would be a good idea having that weak area on a lifeline ? It is impossible to tell where the heat damage ends just by looking at the fibers.
> 
> Rick



Yeah, I've seen some of those climbers. I don't know how they ever get anything done, I mean what with riding to work in a horse drawn buggy.

Tying your hitch with the tail of your climbing line wears out the tail of your climbing line forcing you to shorten your climbing line, it's better to buy a separate length of rope to make split tails from and save your climbing line for climbing.

Like I said before, when your split tail gets to the point that you can't tie your hitch burn it and make a new one. It'll get to that point long before it ever fails.


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## Garden Of Eden (Jun 11, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> Yeah, I've seen some of those climbers. I don't know how they ever get anything done, I mean what with riding to work in a horse drawn buggy.
> 
> Tying your hitch with the tail of your climbing line wears out the tail of your climbing line forcing you to shorten your climbing line, it's better to buy a separate length of rope to make split tails from and save your climbing line for climbing.
> 
> Like I said before, when your split tail gets to the point that you can't tie your hitch burn it and make a new one. It'll get to that point long before it everfails.



Kinda condescending for someone who was just practicing climbing?


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## Carburetorless (Jun 11, 2012)

Garden Of Eden said:


> Kinda condescending for someone who was just practicing climbing?



If you have a sense of humor things won't seem so condescending.


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