# Green lumber for trailer decking?



## pepe_silvia (Jun 16, 2015)

My trailer is in bad need of a new deck. It's not a big guy, around 5'x10'. The previous owner obviously used plain old 2x4s and it's starting to take a toll. One has completely broken off and the rest are in sad shape.

I've got access to a considerable amount of Post Oak. It's in the white oak family, and from what I understand, stands up to the elements pretty well. Will I have any issues if I mill it and install it green and rough cut?


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## _RJ_ (Jun 16, 2015)

Shouldn't be a problem. I put a new deck on my dads trailer in one day. Fell the tree, milled the boards, ran through plainer, installed. That was a few months ago and they still have the same shape. That was using ponderosa though. So not exactly the same.


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## hopm (Jun 16, 2015)

I cut 2x12 yellow pine that is laying across my trailer now. Was going to use oak...thought about treated....decided this is what I got so I sawed it and the only reason it's not installed is I've not had the chance.


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## carhartted (Jun 17, 2015)

Decked my trailer with green fresh milled cottonwood and it turned out great.


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## Dave Boyt (Jun 18, 2015)

Post oak does stand up well to the elements, but is much more prone to twisting and warping than white oak. You would need to get it SECURELY bolted down to the bed within a couple of days of milling. If possible, use just one bolt centered across the width of the board, with the part of the board that was toward the center of the tree facing up (think of it as the growth rings trying to straighten out as the board dries). The wood will shrink about 8% across its width, so there will be a 1/2" gap between 6" wide boards when it dries. It won't be pretty, and will be at least twice as heavy as the pine, but it will be strong.


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## pepe_silvia (Jun 18, 2015)

I figured I might end up with a little too much shrinkage. I think I'll mill up a spare board to fill in the gap that's left over. The trailer isn't current set up to have bolts in the ends. I included a picture to show how it is setup (sideview). The boards only span the length of 1/2 the trailer. Would that be sufficient to keep them from warping too bad as long as they fit snugly in the ends?


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## babybart (Jun 18, 2015)

Dave Boyt said:


> Post oak does stand up well to the elements, but is much more prone to twisting and warping than white oak. You would need to get it SECURELY bolted down to the bed within a couple of days of milling. If possible, use just one bolt centered across the width of the board, with the part of the board that was toward the center of the tree facing up (think of it as the growth rings trying to straighten out as the board dries). The wood will shrink about 8% across its width, so there will be a 1/2" gap between 6" wide boards when it dries. It won't be pretty, and will be at least twice as heavy as the pine, but it will be strong.




I would put the boards opposite of this suggestion so that the boards cup down not up to keep from all the edges sticking up. Just my thoughts but less edges means less tripping and catching everything...


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## gary courtney (Jun 18, 2015)

i use 8 inch steel c- purlins. never have to replace again


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## firebrick43 (Jun 21, 2015)

We always preferred rough cut green white oak for our lowboys decking. Nothing resist weather better especially after being soaked in oil and grease. Also steel decking is slicker than snot on an oil slick. Dangerous when loading even tracked equipment. White oak resist dents better as well as equivalent weight steel as well. A friend that hauls broken up concrete put some white oak runners in his dump trailers as the floors were being beat so badly by big chunks being dumped in. They have lasted twice as long so far and it will be just wood replacement instead of a whole new floor. 

We screw down the flooring with torx drive self tapping screws bought from wabash national for trailer flooring using an impact gun. 

If your hauling loose dirt/ gravel just get a piece of mining belt or sheet of ply to lay down so it doesn't fall thru. Rest of the time the gaps that open up are good for drainage and no detriment to equipment or wood hauling.


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## whitepine2 (Jun 22, 2015)

pepe_silvia said:


> My trailer is in bad need of a new deck. It's not a big guy, around 5'x10'. The previous owner obviously used plain old 2x4s and it's starting to take a toll. One has completely broken off and the rest are in sad shape.
> 
> I've got access to a considerable amount of Post Oak. It's in the white oak family, and from what I understand, stands up to the elements pretty well. Will I have any issues if I mill it and install it green and rough cut?


I would let it dry some before decking. I have found oak will shrink some and you will have spaces on the deck that's my experience with green oak.


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## Dave Boyt (Jul 8, 2015)

Babybart, right you are. The boards should cup down. Maybe I didn't describe it well enough.


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## pete_86 (Jul 18, 2015)

so just to get things clear, I've heard "crown down" for boards. So really it's crown up so they look like a "U" on end and cup downwards.


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## SawmillMan (Aug 31, 2015)

I've milled several white oaks for trailer decking. The boards were installed rough sawn and green. Installing them green is fine, but you will get a gap after the boards shrink. You may like to end seal the boards after cutting them to their final length to reduce checking (which will be minimal typically).


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