# McCulloch Timber Bear



## LouieIV (Jun 10, 2008)

This looks like it might be a Timber Bear from the mid or late 90's, are they any good? I'm thinking of picking it up just for fun. I think CAD has a hold of me.

I figure for 25 bucks I can't really go wrong.

-LouieIV


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## Scooterbum (Jun 10, 2008)

Wide body saw that's alot of fun to use.Has that old Mac sound.Lots of torque for a 60cc saw,Pulls a 20" just fine.I've got about 3 0f them.

P.S. you can get about $100 on ebay all day long,has kind of a cult following.


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## LouieIV (Jun 10, 2008)

Scooterbum said:


> Wide body saw that's alot of fun to use.Has that old Mac sound.Lots of torque for a 60cc saw,Pulls a 20" just fine.I've got about 3 0f them.
> 
> P.S. you can get about $100 on ebay all day long,has kind of a cult following.



So your pretty sure it is a Timber Bear? Pic isn't that great so I wasn't sure. Using Mike Acres site it looked like the closest match.

-LouieIV


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## AngelofDarkness (Jun 10, 2008)

Heck, if something with a motor starts, runs and does it's intended job it's worth at least $20. Mac still made some decent saws into the 90's.


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## Scooterbum (Jun 10, 2008)

They came with many badges.605-610-promac650-promac655 to name a few.
Essentially the same saw.If it runs well worth $25.

Bore size went anywhere from 55cc to 60cc.


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## Scooterbum (Jun 10, 2008)

Heck I just looked at the picture again.The case and scabbard are worth that.


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## excess650 (Jun 10, 2008)

LouieIV said:


> This looks like it might be a Timber Bear from the mid or late 90's, are they any good? I'm thinking of picking it up just for fun. I think CAD has a hold of me.
> 
> I figure for 25 bucks I can't really go wrong.
> 
> -LouieIV



I think the Timberbears were the last of the Pro Mac 605/610 variety so would have been mid to late 90s. The 3.7 are 60cc, the 3.4s 56cc or 57cc. I'll warn you, they are heavy.....lots of new parts still around, automatic and manual oiler. $25 is a good deal for most any saw thats useable.


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## LouieIV (Jun 10, 2008)

Well I'm gonna go take a look at it in about 1/2 hr. pour a little mix in it and see what happens.

-LouieIV


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## excess650 (Jun 10, 2008)

LouieIV said:


> So your pretty sure it is a Timber Bear? Pic isn't that great so I wasn't sure. Using Mike Acres site it looked like the closest match.
> 
> -LouieIV



Yeah, its a Timberbear, Pro Mac, or Eager Beaver 3.4 or 3.7. I bought a PM610 new in the late 80s, still have it, and it was sold in a case like that.


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## excess650 (Jun 10, 2008)

LouieIV said:


> Well I'm gonna go take a look at it in about 1/2 hr. pour a little mix in it and see what happens.
> 
> -LouieIV



There is no "purge valve", so choke it for one pull, engage the throttle lock, and give it a 2nd pull, and it should start. Expect it to smoke a little.


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## Austin1 (Jun 10, 2008)

I think Mac put the name Eager beaver 70s/80s&later Timber Bear on saw's also allot.I thought the bigger macs made in the 90s were put together in Mexico? at least that is what I remember from 15 years ago


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## Journier (Jun 10, 2008)

the picture looks like my timber bear.

I used to like that mcculuch, but one year it wouldnt start.

it wont get spark  dont know how to fix, other than buying the electronic ignition off the internet.

real bummer


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## LouieIV (Jun 10, 2008)

Well I went and checked it out. It had old mix in it, I didn't have anything to dump it in so I just added a little fresh stuff. I couldn't get it to start, but it sounded like it was close, so I talked the from $25 down to $20 (I should have tried $15). I suspected/was hoping it was just the old fuel. When I had a little time after dinner I dumped out the old fuel and added some good stuff it fired up in a few pulls. 

I'm stoked. It needs some idle adjustments and a good cleaning, probably a few other things. When I get a chance I'll take a closer look at it.

Oh by the way it is a Timber Bear. I was gonna take a few pics, but my camera battery was dead.

-LouieIV


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## Brian S (Jun 11, 2008)

I like the old Macs too. I have a couple of the earlier version of this saw- the 10-10 and they are pretty cool, good running saws.


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## kgb007stb (Jun 11, 2008)

Man, this saw brings back a lot of memories. This was the saw that started my cutting career at the age of 15.:greenchainsaw:


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## LouieIV (Jun 11, 2008)

Hey anyone got an e-copy of the service manual for this saw? I believe it's one manual that covers the 600 series. I saw one on ebay for 5 bucks, but thought I'd check here first.

I want to use this saw as a learning device not my new 5100 LOL.

Thanks,
LouieIV


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## mbopp (Jun 11, 2008)

I've got a PDF IPL somewhere on my PC at home. Would that help?


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## Saw Dr. (Jun 11, 2008)

PM me your email, and I will send you the IPL. I just got a 650 with 24" bar the other day.


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## kgb007stb (Jun 11, 2008)

I may have to think about rebuilding mine. If you find a good parts dealer let me know.


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## LouieIV (Jun 11, 2008)

kgb007stb said:


> I may have to think about rebuilding mine. If you find a good parts dealer let me know.



Hey thanks kgb,
Forgive my ignorance, but I'm not sure if that is the right one??
My model number is 60013414, I may not be reading it correctly but it looks like that model number is not covered. It does look like the same saw though. Can someone please confirm?

thanks again,
LouieIV


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## tomtrees58 (Jun 11, 2008)

AngelofDarkness said:


> Heck, if something with a motor starts, runs and does it's intended job it's worth at least $20. Mac still made some decent saws into the 90's.



you got thah right tom treesopcorn:


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## LouieIV (Jun 11, 2008)

kgb007stb said:


> I may have to think about rebuilding mine. If you find a good parts dealer let me know.



Hey kgb,
Looks like this ebay store has a number of mac 600 series parts.

-LouieIV


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## lawnmowertech37 (Jun 11, 2008)

why go to ebay store for mac parts when you have someone on arboristsite 
thanks
calvin


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## LouieIV (Jun 11, 2008)

lawnmowertech37 said:


> why go to ebay store for mac parts when you have someone on arboristsite
> thanks
> calvin



Good point, sorry about that.  
Definitely check with lawnmowertech37 first.   

-LouieIV


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## LouieIV (Jun 12, 2008)

Well here's a pic of the saw. Need a lot of cleaning. Looks like the muffler is spitting out some oil, not sure what that means?

I adjusted the idle so that the chain wasn't running today and cleaned the air filter. That's all I've done so far, maybe this weekend I'll have time to clean it up some.

I've now got a copy of the IPL, thanks guys.
Anyone have a copy of the service manual?

-LouieIV


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## djmercer1 (Jun 12, 2008)

LouieIV said:


> Well here's a pic of the saw. Need a lot of cleaning. Looks like the muffler is spitting out some oil, not sure what that means?
> 
> I adjusted the idle so that the chain wasn't running today and cleaned the air filter. That's all I've done so far, maybe this weekend I'll have time to clean it up some.
> 
> ...



i hooked my brother up with a used one from one of my *** guys. i needed to remove the spark arestor screen and give it a good cleaning(mostly clogged) and a proper tuning. runs decent now with original 20" bar.


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## mantis (Jun 12, 2008)

Got one 3.7" but its an eager beaver...I think.had it for years,but don't use it much now.Kind of retired it.Never had a problem.I got a 24" bar on it.Don't ask me why


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## kgb007stb (Jun 12, 2008)

Louie, nice pic, which model is that? That is exactly what my saw looks like. I just happen to be some miles away, but I am working on getting the serial/model number.

And yes, I'd rather support AS dealer/site sponsor than someone from the outside.


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## LouieIV (Jun 12, 2008)

kgb007stb said:


> Louie, nice pic, which model is that? That is exactly what my saw looks like. I just happen to be some miles away, but I am working on getting the serial/model number.
> 
> And yes, I'd rather support AS dealer/site sponsor than someone from the outside.



My model # is 60013414

:greenchainsaw:


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## kgb007stb (Jun 12, 2008)

So that would make it the Pro Mac 605, is that the one with 55.6 cc engine?


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## LouieIV (Jun 13, 2008)

kgb007stb said:


> So that would make it the Pro Mac 605, is that the one with 55.6 cc engine?



Not sure, it doesn't say Pro Mac anywhere on it. From what I've found the Timber Bear is 55cc, not sure how to tell for sure though. Here it says the Pro Mac 605 is 58cc, which is what the IPL says too.

Pics are slightly blurry after resizing them. I think if I lower the res on my camera instead of resizing it would help.

-LouieIV


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## djmercer1 (Jun 13, 2008)

LouieIV said:


> Not sure, it doesn't say Pro Mac anywhere on it. From what I've found the Timber Bear is 55cc, not sure how to tell for sure though. Here it says the Pro Mac 605 is 58cc, which is what the IPL says too.
> 
> Pics are slightly blurry after resizing them. I think if I lower the res on my camera instead of resizing it would help.
> 
> -LouieIV



there is something wrong with the acres site listing for the motor specs with this family of saws:

pm605
bore=40mm
stroke=35mm
disp=58cc
if you do the calc the disp should actually be 44cc

timberbear
bore=46mm
stroke=35mm
disp=55cc
again, if you do the calc the disp should be 58cc

also, alot of these saws are using the same pictures(several saws use the pm610 image(ie pm 605...) and the timberbear uses a different promac image). can anyone clarify this?


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## excess650 (Jun 13, 2008)

djmercer1 said:


> there is something wrong with the acres site listing for the motor specs with this family of saws:
> 
> pm605
> bore=40mm
> ...



The bore size on the PM605 is probably a misprint. I think that all of these saws were either 3.4cid 57cc or 3.7cid 60cc.

I'm sure the same picture is used because the saws are the same except for graphics. They had a pretty long production run, so changing the name and graphics was less expensive than changing the saw. The Pro Mac 650 was the predecessor to the Pro Mac 610, but had a compression release.


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## mantis (Jun 13, 2008)

excess650 said:


> The bore size on the PM605 is probably a misprint. I think that all of these saws were either 3.4cid 57cc or 3.7cid 60cc.
> 
> I'm sure the same picture is used because the saws are the same except for graphics. They had a pretty long production run, so changing the name and graphics was less expensive than changing the saw. The Pro Mac 650 was the predecessor to the Pro Mac 610, but had a compression release.



I think you are right mine is a 3.7cid


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## LouieIV (Jun 13, 2008)

Yeah there is something messed up in the documentation, not just on acres site but in the IPL too.

The numbers I've seen are:
3.4ci (=55cc) I think these are the TB's, but maybe it varied depending on year.
3.5ci(=58cc)
3.7ci(=60cc) 

Of course the cc measurement is more accurate. The ci is rounded off.

I'm gonna tear mine down eventually (for fun). I'll try and get some measurements, so we can solve this great mystery. :biggrinbounce2: 

-LouieIV


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## Gevans17 (Jul 20, 2008)

*Timber Bear 20 inch*

Found this site while searching for parts for my Timber Bear 20 inch bar. My manual says it is for: 

Timber Bear;
Pro-Mac 605, 610, 5700; 
Super Pro MAc 610;
Power Mac 605-20;

Silver Eagle 3420, 3720

Eager Beaver 3.4, 3.7

Anyone know where I can find a new starter assembly spring/ drum for a Timber Bear???


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## lawnmowertech37 (Jul 20, 2008)

Gevans17 said:


> Found this site while searching for parts for my Timber Bear 20 inch bar. My manual says it is for:
> 
> Timber Bear;
> Pro-Mac 605, 610, 5700;
> ...



yes i do i may have one


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## icanfixit (Sep 4, 2008)

I have the same saw and the darn thing just wouldnt die.......lol. I wanted a nicer Stihl for years and just couldnt get myself to buy one with this thing still running. I did however beak down recently and picked up the MS 361. I just couldnt take the weight of the old timber bear for regular use. I still have the saw and looking for lighter bar for occasional use. Easier to have an extra saw handy so i dont have to bother sharpening in the middle of cutting. The old timber bear was a good saw and never gave me trouble. But I have to admit, its alot more fun cutting with a lighter saw. If you strip it down and come up with any weight saving ideas, please post them.......


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## GASoline71 (Sep 4, 2008)

PM605/610/650/Timberbear... all the same saws...

I had a PM610 that I put a little work into. It would pull a 24" bar/chain with no probs. The are loud, heavy and ugly... but they are good saws...

I sold mine earlier this year on ebay for $220 bucks...

















Gary


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## Scooterbum (Sep 4, 2008)

*610-650 Specs*

*Service Specifications*

SPARKPLUG GAP. . . . . . . . . . . . .025inch (.63asn)
LA141NATIONGO . . . . . . . . . . . . .011 to .015 inch (.28
TIMING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..26 BTDC
CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT SPEED . . . . . . . 2800 to 3000 RPM
IDLE SPEED. . . . . . . . . . . . .. 1800t02000RPM
FUEL TYPE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Regular Grade Leaded
FUEL/OIL MIXTURE: . . . . . . . . . . 40:1 w/McCulloch Oil
20:1 SAE Two Cycle
FUEL TANK CAPACITY: : : : ~ : ~ : ~ : 17.3 ounces (51OCC)
DISPLACEMENT. . . . . . . . . . . . . 60CC (3.7 cu. in.)
BORE and STROKE . . . . . . . . . . . 4.71mnx 35mn (1.9 in.
WEIGHT: PM610 . . . . . . . . . . . . 14.7 pounds (6.65kg)
PM650 . . . . . . . . . . . . 14.8 pounds (6.70kg)
to .38111n)

*Torque Values*
CONNECTING ROO SCREWS . . . . . . . . 65% 70 pound x inches
(7.3to 7.9 N.m)
CLUTCH NUT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 tO 170 pound x inches
(18.1 to 19.2 N.m.)
FLYWHEEL NUT. . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 to 325 pound x inches
(29.9 to 36.7 N.m.)


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## romeo (Sep 4, 2008)

I think my dad bought his timberbear around 1987. Could be wrong by a year or so. There are still quite a few parts kicking around for them. The last MAC imo.


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## kgb007stb (Sep 5, 2008)

*max rpms*

Do any of you guys know the max RPMs for these saws. I will be rebuilding one soon, and I am unable to find out how fast they should rotate.


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## Austin1 (Sep 5, 2008)

kgb007stb said:


> Do any of you guys know the max RPMs for these saws. I will be rebuilding one soon, and I am unable to find out how fast they should rotate.


I cant tell you the specs as to what Mac say's, but mine tac's out at 11800 rpms were it seems to cut best with, this was taken with a 20'' Bar.


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## Austin1 (Sep 5, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> PM605/610/650/Timberbear... all the same saws...
> 
> I had a PM610 that I put a little work into. It would pull a 24" bar/chain with no probs. The are loud, heavy and ugly... but they are good saws...
> 
> ...


Nice saw! shouldn't have sold it! I can see your point on the 24'' bar those saw's will pull it for 60cc, I have a 20'' on mine it might not be zippy fast but it does not slow down too much with the bar buried.But then you did get 220.00 for it,it held it's value pretty good.


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## romeo (Sep 5, 2008)

kgb007stb said:


> Do any of you guys know the max RPMs for these saws. I will be rebuilding one soon, and I am unable to find out how fast they should rotate.



Couldn't tell you, they like running a little on the rich side though, almost like a reed motor but not as bad. They run a little more on torque and less on chain speed than the newer saws.


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## Austin1 (Sep 5, 2008)

romeo said:


> Couldn't tell you, they like running a little on the rich side though, almost like a reed motor but not as bad. They run a little more on torque and less on chain speed than the newer saws.


+1 reading my plug say's it is rich but the saw runs so good that way.


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## kgb007stb (Sep 9, 2008)

That’s good to know, I am wondering why MCculloch omitted this fact from the manual. I have not used one of these in ten years, so adjusting in the beginning by the feel of the cut won’t do any good. Just wanted to make sure that I would not adjust it to a speed which would wreck the motor.


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## mengo45 (Oct 11, 2008)

*Manual*

My Dad just gave me the Timber Bear 60013414 and I was wondering after reading this whole thread if someone did have a manual electronic or otherwise that I could get ahold of. I am wanting to fix this one up and get it running...my first free vintage chainsaw.
Thanks


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## 046 (Oct 11, 2008)

timberbear was my first "big" saw... 

thought it was a bear of a saw! really liked that saw... until someone decided they needed it more than me... 

ended up getting a 034super to replace ... so it ended up well...


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## Scooterbum (Oct 11, 2008)

mengo45 said:


> My Dad just gave me the Timber Bear 60013414 and I was wondering after reading this whole thread if someone did have a manual electronic or otherwise that I could get ahold of. I am wanting to fix this one up and get it running...my first free vintage chainsaw.
> Thanks




Send me a PM with your email address.


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## Wood Doctor (Oct 11, 2008)

Gary sold my old saw for $220?

I may never speak to him again. :check: 

Thanks for the info, Gary. I didn't realize it was still worth that much. :monkey:


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## mengo45 (Oct 17, 2008)

*Oiler Question*

I have found the manual oiler on the Timber Bear, is that to prime an automatic oiler or is it the only way to oil the bar. If so how often do you need to manually pump it while cutting?
thanks for helping the rookie,
Mengo45:greenchainsaw:


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## superfire (Oct 18, 2008)

*oiler?*

most are auto oiler,manual is for extra oil in really bad conditions usually it is rarely used. got picts


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## Justsaws (Oct 18, 2008)

mengo45 said:


> I have found the manual oiler on the Timber Bear, is that to prime an automatic oiler or is it the only way to oil the bar. If so how often do you need to manually pump it while cutting?
> thanks for helping the rookie,
> Mengo45:greenchainsaw:



It is for priming before start up and as back up while running. Timber Bears have a automatic oiler under the top cover in front of the carb box. They operate of of crank case pressure and are getting old so that sometimes the diaphagms do not work very well. They are adjustable oilers and can be opened up for better flow. A good cleaning of the oiler openings can also improve things.


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## mengo45 (Oct 18, 2008)

*Sure*

I can get some picts up soon, it was loaded with bad gas. We were able to get it started by using carb cleaner until we were pulling fresh fuel. Starts and runs good now. Going to cut some firewood to sell just for fun. Thanks for the info on the oiler, it isn't oiling well so I will try opening it up tomorrow and seeing if that helps.
 
mengo45


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## Justsaws (Oct 18, 2008)

mengo45 said:


> I can get some picts up soon, it was loaded with bad gas. We were able to get it started by using carb cleaner until we were pulling fresh fuel. Starts and runs good now. Going to cut some firewood to sell just for fun. Thanks for the info on the oiler, it isn't oiling well so I will try opening it up tomorrow and seeing if that helps.
> 
> mengo45



Take off top cover and as you are looking down at the saw the oiler is the white plastic piece in front of the carb. box. Near the middle of the white plastic oiler is a black slotted hex screw. Turn screw counter-clock wise to increase oil flow. The screw is long but there is no need to turn it out past 9/16" from where the screw goes into the white plastic. 

If you are using super thick extra tacky ultra modern oil(name brand) you also might need to thin it down with a solvent(mineral spirits) for the first tank especially if the saw has sat for a long time. 30wt motor oil is about the right consistency until the oiler is cleaned out and the parts are moving freely again.


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## SawGarage (Mar 17, 2010)

*hmm... I'll start by apologizing...*

For reviving an old post...I might get shot, or chased by a pack of chainsaw-wielding-men.

But I have good reason..

I just read through the 4 pages.

1st off, WOW! he stole that saw for 25, esp with the case! those cases go for 50+ 

2ndly, I just picked up my 1st PM605/610 tonite... I paid $20 for it, but the chain oiler is leaking bad, it seems to be missing part of the muffler cover (weird, as I thought it was one piece that covered both the clutch and muffler, but doesn't seem this way on this saw.) and it supposedly overheats (Not sure, have yet to run it.)

It is a Timberbear, with only a 16" bar...

anyone know the specifics of the Super Pro Mac and the Pro Mac, and why they eliminated the Decomp. valve??

Thanks all!!! 

PS. I've done a lot of lurking, but have finally joined!!


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## lawnmowertech37 (Mar 17, 2010)

GR40RCapri said:


> For reviving an old post...I might get shot, or chased by a pack of chainsaw-wielding-men.
> 
> But I have good reason..
> 
> ...


Don't feel bad about reviving a old post ought to see the one i did on another site 4 years later lol


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## scotvl (Mar 17, 2010)

Ive got a timbre bear that I bought at meijer for $150.00 in 1992. I loved that saw heated my first house for 8 years on nothing but wood with that saw and a 8lb maul. Started on second pull and had a great burble at idle. I quit using it 10 years ago after the pull start housing riped right off the saw one day. After reading this I think Im going to dig her out of the shed and find a way to mount the starter back on.


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## Urbicide (Mar 17, 2010)

GR, check the cooling fins to make sure that they are not blocked up with bar oil, saw dust, mud dauber nests, spider webs, etc. A carburetor that is adjusted too lean on the high speed needle will cause a saw to run hot. (The incoming fuel charge from the carburetor actually does a good sized portion of the engine cooling). Check the spark plug & make sure that it is the one called for by the manufacture, or the plugs equivalent replacement.


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## SawGarage (Mar 17, 2010)

Urb- Thanks...I was thinking the cooling fins...didn't think of the carb charge...thanks. I have yet to tinker... that will be tommorow.

J


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## icanfixit (Mar 17, 2010)

I was glad to see the post reopened. I have the same problem with the leaking oiler. I never bothered trying to fix it because i still get enough oil on the chain. I have the 20 inch GB bar becuase it helped to lighten it up a bit. I still use the saw, but have a MS 361 now and just use it as the back up and in between sharpening. Is the oil leak a seal issue and can I get a new seal. Have a plastic pan under it while storing.


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## hmmach1 (Mar 17, 2010)

This thead is making me proud to be a member of the timberbear club. Never thought it oiled quite rite,may put some thinner oil in it and go cut some wood with it for old time sake.


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## SawGarage (Mar 20, 2010)

hmmach1 said:


> This thead is making me proud to be a member of the timberbear club. Never thought it oiled quite rite,may put some thinner oil in it and go cut some wood with it for old time sake.



a quick adjustment to the oiler may help...


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## redbanks2 (Feb 19, 2011)

*New Timber Bear Owner*

Just wanted to say hello to everyone. I got a free Timber Bear the other week. After reading some of these posts, I decided to try to get it to run. I discovered that the choke tube was broken, so I made a new one (I did not know that they were still out there plus I like the challenge), and it runs!

I cut some fire wood with it two days ago... I think I'll keep it!

Like this post was originally started years ago, anyone got a manual for these?
I would like to be able to take good care of it. 
Thanks.


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## Guido Salvage (Feb 19, 2011)

redbanks2 said:


> Like this post was originally started years ago, anyone got a manual for these? I would like to be able to take good care of it.



Congratulations on your saw, just be aware it will not be your last! You might try the "Beg for Manuals" "sticky" at the top of the page. You want to try your luck with a couple more?


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## Pendagator (Feb 20, 2011)

I need to take the clutch off my Timberbear. I got the nut off - turned it clockwise. Does the clutch come off the same way- clockwise?

Then my oil tank is leaking there wasn't a gasket . Seems like I saw a thread about sealing it up but can't find it. What kind of sealer would be best to use?

The oil line is shot too- whats the best line, Tygon? Any kind of line I can get at the Auto Parts store?


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## slipknot (Feb 20, 2011)

Ive got a rare one..I think....I have McCulloch 3.4.....I think this was the very last of them......its refurbished/made in mexico. Ill go take a pic of the label. My oiler isnt working either....got a new oiler diaphragm from Randy's cleaned the oiler out and still nothing comes out......so now to check the line....it wont even oil with the manual oiler button.:help:


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## bluesportster02 (Feb 20, 2011)

I thought I was the only one that has a timber bear. my father bought it when i was a kid. I inherited it when he passed away


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## Biker Dude (Feb 20, 2011)

I have the service manual but it is too big to attach, how do I get around that?


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## Modifiedmark (Feb 20, 2011)

Pendagator said:


> I need to take the clutch off my Timberbear. I got the nut off - turned it clockwise. Does the clutch come off the same way- clockwise?
> 
> Then my oil tank is leaking there wasn't a gasket . Seems like I saw a thread about sealing it up but can't find it. What kind of sealer would be best to use?
> 
> The oil line is shot too- whats the best line, Tygon? Any kind of line I can get at the Auto Parts store?


 
I don't remember on the clutch off hand, sorry.

Sounds like you got the oil tank off already? Thats a PITA is it not? 

Your correct there was no gasket from the factory and while you can use several different sealers I think its best to make a gasket out of some gasket material like the factory should have done. 

Sealers will work but you have that oil passage running through it and its hard to keep the sealer out of it. 

A piece of tygon will be fine for the oil pickup line.


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## Modifiedmark (Feb 20, 2011)

slipknot said:


> Ive got a rare one..I think....I have McCulloch 3.4.....I think this was the very last of them......its refurbished/made in mexico. Ill go take a pic of the label. My oiler isnt working either....got a new oiler diaphragm from Randy's cleaned the oiler out and still nothing comes out......so now to check the line....it wont even oil with the manual oiler button.:help:


 
If you can replace that oil line without removing the tank your a better man then I am. 

Read my above post when you do remove the tank and you might as well as most all of them that I have been around have a leaking tank anyway.


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## Duke Thieroff (Feb 20, 2011)

I got one of these saws last week, actually a 610 from a member here.

I really think that it's not a bad running saw at all.

It's smooth and starts right up, pulls that 20 inch bar just fine.

It's big and ugly though, but what do I care all my saws are on the heavy side, and I like that anyways.

I kind of like it when my saws kick my ass. That's the way it should be.

I can see why most have the chain brake removed, I kind of thought it was strange to have to remove the brake to put a B/C on it.

Big and ugly, yes
Weak oiler, yes
Last saw Mac put out before they went to hell, yes

Do I like this saw, yes

I wouldn't pay a lot for one, but they are worth a few beans to get running

Chris


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## Wood Doctor (Feb 20, 2011)

Thieroff said:


> I got one of these saws last week, actually a 610 from a member here.
> 
> I really think that it's not a bad running saw at all.
> 
> ...


Just managed to start and run an old Stihl 041, built about the same year as my Mac 610 Timber Bear. The Mac is better built, just as powerful, weighs about the same, but it has a good chain brake that works. It's also more reliable and starts every year. I'll take my 1978 Timberbear any day over the Stihl 041:












Sorry, Stihl, you lost this battle back in 1978. That's MHO.


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## heimannm (Feb 21, 2011)

Doctor, you'd better be ready to duck in case any Stihl fans read that.

Don't you know that the 600 Series McCulloch saws are only one small step above the Mini Macs in terms of hated saws here?

I accidentally ended up with one, which lead to 7 or 8 now in the posession of my older son. They fit him well; heavy, loud, slow, durable, and still running strong after 25 years of neglect.

Mark


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## Chris J. (Feb 21, 2011)

heimannm said:


> ...600 Series McCulloch saws...I accidentally ended up with one, which lead to 7 or 8 now *in the posession of my older son. They fit him well; heavy, loud, slow*, durable, and still running strong after 25 years of neglect.
> 
> Mark



I literally LOL . I'm guessing that your older son doesn't read AS, or has a really good sense of humor.


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## heimannm (Feb 21, 2011)

He spends his time with music, movies, and video games but is always willing to help when there is wood to cut or saws to work on.

He knows how others feel about the 600 Series, but he's delighted to have some saws to call his own.

Here he is firing up the rebadged Montgomery Wards version of the 610.






His favorite saw in the line up is his Timber Bear, which not coincidentally is the only one that we've replaced the rings.

Mark


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## Chris J. (Feb 21, 2011)

I need to make a couple of calls, might be looking at Timber Bear this afternoon.


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## heimannm (Feb 21, 2011)

I think it has already been mentioned, but there were several different models with the Timber Bear tag, just like there were several with the Eager Beaver tag; it is always necessary to make sure you are getting one of the 600 Series saws and not a China Mac unless that's what you want.

Mark


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## Wood Doctor (Feb 21, 2011)

heimannm said:


> Doctor, you'd better be ready to duck in case any Stihl fans read that.
> 
> Don't you know that the 600 Series McCulloch saws are only one small step above the Mini Macs in terms of hated saws here?
> 
> ...


Mark, I am sure I have tromped all over the old Stihl 041 owners, but that's the breaks. The Mac 610 is a better saw for numerous reasons, besides the chain brake that the 041 never had on board. I've worked on both of them in the shop. The Mac 610 comes out in front.

The whole carb assembly and throttle linkage to the trigger that Stihl used for the 041 back then was a joke and designed to disconnect. The spark plug was positioned as poorly as you can imagine, buried deep in the handle. The 041 vibrated like a cement mixer, forcing owners to glue the machine screws.

Hey, I still love the old Mac 610s. Not until the Stihl MS 361 was released did I really think Stihl made a better chainsaw in about the same class. That's why I bought one, even though it cost me four times as much money as my Mac 610 did back in '78.


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## homelitejim (Feb 21, 2011)

Picked this up the other day for $20, guy was convinced the saw was dead but as you can see it lives. It will need the chain brake and a felling spike and a sharp chain.

[video=youtube;hcYPsh9CbF4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcYPsh9CbF4[/video]

and some pics. Adjusting the carb is tricky too lean it won't start too rich it won't throttle up, and man does it smoke. I wasn't too sure about it when I first got it but it is starting to grow on me.


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## heimannm (Feb 21, 2011)

The 600 Series saws, like all of the old McCullochs, used a pulse operated automatic oil pump operated off crank case pressure pulses. If the seal or diaphragm leak a little they will allow some bar oil to pass into the crank case where it eventually finds it's way into the combustion chamber. 

The 600 Series were particularly noted for this feature. They usually clear up after a few seconds of running.

Mark


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## promac850 (Feb 21, 2011)

I :love: my 610. She's a good cutting saw. I know I'll really :love: the 850, when I finally get finished rebuilding her. :msp_love:


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## redbanks2 (Feb 22, 2011)

*Timber Bears!*

It is pretty cool to see that I started something with my posting the other day! Makes me glad to join the various Mac owners that appreciate the Timber Bear saw.

I was able to down load (for a fee) a manual for a slightly different model that will help. I think that I have the 600 per the serial number. If anyone could maybe send me a copy of a manual, please PM me. 

Thanks!


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## Wood Doctor (Feb 22, 2011)

*Timber Bear Still Wins...*



homelitejim said:


> Picked this up the other day for $20, guy was convinced the saw was dead but as you can see it lives. It will need the chain brake and a felling spike and a sharp chain.
> 
> [video=youtube;hcYPsh9CbF4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcYPsh9CbF4[/video]
> 
> and some pics. Adjusting the carb is tricky too lean it won't start too rich it won't throttle up, and man does it smoke. I wasn't too sure about it when I first got it but it is starting to grow on me.


No comparison. My Mac 610 Timber Bear will knock this log down in 10 seconds or less. I know this is true because I tested it last fall on a log the same dia. 

Remember, men, the Mac 610 was one of the greatest chain saws ever built.


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## homelitejim (Feb 22, 2011)

Wood Doctor said:


> No comparison. My Mac 610 Timber Bear will knock this log down in 10 seconds or less. I know this is true because I tested it last fall on a log the same dia.
> 
> Remember, men, the Mac 610 was one of the greatest chain saws ever built.



It is a re badged McCulloch 610. I grabbed a chain out of the needs to be sharpened pile that may not have been the correct gauge and threw it on there for the obligatory first cut video, plus with no dogs to grab the green piece of doug fir. As soon as I get the pieces together I will shoot another vid and I'm sure it will be faster.:msp_rolleyes:


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## Wood Doctor (Feb 22, 2011)

homelitejim said:


> It is a re badged McCulloch 610. I grabbed a chain out of the needs to be sharpened pile that may not have been the correct gauge and threw it on there for the obligatory first cut video, plus with no dogs to grab the green piece of doug fir. As soon as I get the pieces together I will shoot another vid and I'm sure it will be faster.:msp_rolleyes:


Be sure that you also do not use a "safety chain" when you do that. That slows the Mac 610 down by 30% or more. Use a chain similar to the typical Stihl chain that I use with my MS 361. Whenever I do that, the vintage 1978 Mac 610 will stay almost dead even with the 2009 MS 361, both saws using the same bar length. :msp_wink:


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## Kingsley (Feb 22, 2011)

> Mark, I am sure I have tromped all over the old Stihl 041 owners, but that's the breaks. The Mac 610 is a better saw for numerous reasons, besides the chain brake that the 041 never had on board. I've worked on both of them in the shop. The Mac 610 comes out in front.
> 
> The whole carb assembly and throttle linkage to the trigger that Stihl used for the 041 back then was a joke and designed to disconnect. The spark plug was positioned as poorly as you can imagine, buried deep in the handle. The 041 vibrated like a cement mixer, forcing owners to glue the machine screws.
> 
> Hey, I still love the old Mac 610s. Not until the Stihl MS 361 was released did I really think Stihl made a better chainsaw in about the same class. That's why I bought one, even though it cost me four times as much money as my Mac 610 did back in '78.



I too am a Pro Mac fan. Nice well built saw. It reminds me of my first saw, an 041AV. Which had a chainbrake and antivibe. The 2 are very comparable.

Comparing an 041 to a Pro Mac isn't fair unless you are comparing it to the 041 AV version.

Just my $.02,
Marty


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## Modifiedmark (Feb 22, 2011)

Wood Doctor said:


> Remember, men, the Mac 610 was one of the greatest chain saws ever built.


 
The sad part here is, I really think you believe that and are not joking. :msp_unsure:


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## gmax (Feb 23, 2011)

Modifiedmark said:


> The sad part here is, I really think you believe that and are not joking. :msp_unsure:


 
:agree2: Compared to the earlier 10-10 series macs, the 610 is a giant leap backwards.


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## purdyite (Feb 23, 2011)

Like almost everyone here, I have a Pro Mac 610 and really like it. But the little fuzzy stuff around the choke and throttle shafts are gone...I tried to make a replacement, but didn't work too well. Does anyone have a remedy or a source for the replacement little fuzzy stuff? Since it opens into the carb area past the filter, I am thinking it's pretty important. Thanks for any response...


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## Biker Dude (Feb 23, 2011)

Rubber grommets maybe? I just rob them from parts saws if I need them. 

The nicest thing about the 600 series saws is their abundance. Almost every time someone tells me they have an old McCulloch for me it's a 610.


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## purdyite (Feb 23, 2011)

hmmm...thanks. Hadn't thought about rubber grommets.


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## 046 (Feb 24, 2011)

seems Mac threads just keep going and going...
been awhile since I've seen another Timberbear around here. 
since mine got stolen years ago. 

did recently buy an old Mac 250 .... it's cued up waiting for a turn. 
probably all Mac 250 needs is plug and carb cleaned to run again. 
compression feels real good and she turns over nicely. 

got too many dead saws... arrrgggghhhh...


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## Wood Doctor (Feb 24, 2011)

*A Little Brother*



046 said:


> seems Mac threads just keep going and going...
> been awhile since I've seen another Timberbear around here.
> since mine got stolen years ago.
> 
> ...


Well, you could go out, cut some branches, and do some small bucking with this little brother of the Timber Bear:






Mac 3514 with a custom-made hardwood scabbard and chain brake handle.


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## 046 (Feb 24, 2011)

been keeping my eyeballs peeled for a SP125 ... like forever
seems none around here ...


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## Biker Dude (Feb 25, 2011)

Instead of a Timber Bear, that one looks more like a beaver tail!




In a good way of course. :msp_thumbup:


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## L6Power (Jun 30, 2011)

*McCulloch 60013414*

Well guys, I guess I'll jump on into the 7 page list of McCulloch owners. I really appreciate all the information that everyone has posted in regards to these things but I would like help clearing up a few questions that I have if anyone can be so kind. Basically, I got a saw "60013414" and am unclear as to what series this is... I'm assuming that it's a 600 series?!?! but I don't know for sure as I keep reading about 605 series, 610 series etc. etc. so if someone could clear me on that I would GREATLY appreciate it. The chainsaw currently doesn't run but I just got it today and getting it to run won't be a problem at all but if someone has a manual for this particular model that they could maybe email to me or that I could purchase that too would be wonderful. Finally, the chainbrake has broken and still works but the top part has snapped off as it seems a bit less than rugged, although I'm sure anything would break if it was hit just right and I need a bump spike..... I see a few on Ebay but again, because I'm not exactly sure of the particular model of this saw, I would hate to get the wrong one. Thanks in advance to anyone who takes time out for me... Bill Reilly


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## heimannm (Jun 30, 2011)

600134 is a Pro Mac 605, the -14 indicates it is a later model. My lists only go up to 1987 which stopped at -06.

With McCulloch it is often difficult to say with certainty as they changed things around quite a lot, but that saw would be 3.7 In³ or 60/61 cc depending on how you round it.

The spike that fits the 600 Series saws also fit the later 10 Series and PM 700/800 etc. PN 93668. They often come in a two pack if you find NOS units so you can mount them inboard and outboard.

This particular saw is the McCulloch 600 Series (610?) sold as a Montgomery Wards TM something or other.






I have never seen a workshop manual for these, but I do have several different IPL's, if you are interested PM me with an e-mail address and I can send one.

Mark


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## purdyite (Jul 1, 2011)

*Porting?*

I used my 610 Saturday, and in general it seems to bog down too easily. I have done the carb adjustments, seems to run fine, just not much power in the cutting as I have read in other testimonies. So I'm thinking this would be a good candidate for porting and a muff mod. Any advice or wise words specific to this saw before I start? Appreciate any help.


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## promac850 (Jul 1, 2011)

purdyite said:


> I used my 610 Saturday, and in general it seems to bog down too easily. I have done the carb adjustments, seems to run fine, just not much power in the cutting as I have read in other testimonies. So I'm thinking this would be a good candidate for porting and a muff mod. Any advice or wise words specific to this saw before I start? Appreciate any help.


 
Check the compression, and also check it the spark screen is clean. 

Are you sure you got your carb tuning down right? If you are, then a carb kit and possibly a fuel line and filter is needed. Mine got that treatment last year, and it sure helped. It wouldn't even start after being stored for God knows how long with stale mix in it. So that little tune up woke the thing right back up, and it responds properly to tuning and does not bog down at all, even leaned on, with the 20" bar buried in hard wood.

These do not have a muffler in the sense we all are used to on Huskys, Stihls, etc. It's just a hollow metal box to redirect flow, and all it's capped off by is a spark screen. 

I planned on porting one, but I heard they don't like to run over about 12,500 rpms... some guys mentioned they tend to grenade when run up there, even if it's tuned properly.

I imagine a carb kit may be all you need to get her going strong again, unless the rings are worn and it has low compression.


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## purdyite (Jul 1, 2011)

ProMac, thanks for the information. I got mine in a pickup load of stuff. I cleaned it up on the outside and got it to run, and have used it like that since then--I have never put a carb kit in it. So you could be right, that might wake it up. I think I remember checking the screen...anyway, I'll start there. If it's not common to port these things, I'd better just leave that part be. Been wanting a compression tester, here is my justification!


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## Wood Doctor (Jul 3, 2011)

*"New" Mac 610*

Took her out and ran her today:







Neighbors failed to complain. One said that he'd bever heard such a beast and that it sounded better than firecrackers.


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## Engineeringnerd (Jul 3, 2011)

I bought an Eager Beaver 3.7 back in the 80's and used it up until about a year ago. Sold it with a few chains and spare parts for $150. Always ran when I pulled it, and a good bar and chain turned it into a good, but heavy saw. Smoked a lot! Also leaked bar oil on the floor between uses, so had to drain the tank. Other than a new recoil mechanism and new gas cap, never put any money into it. Good reliable saw.


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## Chris-PA (Jul 9, 2011)

*Silver Eagle 3420*

Found this thread while searching for info on my Silver Eagle 3420. I just got it from my Dad - it was old and heavy and he had trouble starting it now, so he got some new plastic thing. I'm trying to figure out where the Silver Eagle variation fit in to this model progression. Based in the torx screws and such it looks like it might be newer than the PM605?

I'm just a guy cutting firewood for heat, and I've used a bunch of cheap saws for years - a Poulan 2775 20", a Craftsman (Poulan) 18", and my wife got me a cute Husqvarna 16".last year. The Husky is very nice, but too small much of the time. Anyway, the Poulans keep breaking (no surprise), and I have wood to cut. The parts are cheap and readily available, so I fix them but I cannot afford the down time, so I asked my Dad to bring over that old 20" I knew he had laying around for backup, and he drops off the 3420. 

And I love it. I like older stuff that can taken apart many times and that I can maintain. It will be my main saw for now, or at least until something breaks that I cannot replace. It's metal, the pull starter feels solid, with a little TLC it starts on the 2nd or 3rd pull now, and it idles and runs like a champ. Big (to me) motor has lots of grunt. That Poulan 20" has a 2.8 cu in motor - it will barely cut poplar with a sharp chain. I tried it out in the very large white oak I'm cutting up now and it cut very nicely.

I had to pull the oil tank to replace the inlet tube, and there is a shield behind the chain that's torn up (replacement on the way). I'll have to make a gasket for the muffler as the old one broke apart. The bar is a little worn (probably from the oiler issue). Other than that it's good to go.


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## Warped5 (Jul 9, 2011)

Wood Doctor said:


> Took her out and ran her today:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Very nice! Looks to maybe have the original bar, too. All you need to do is hoist one a time or two to know why they are called the 'cinder block saw.' 

Your neighbor likes beasts? He should hear my 10-10 .... lol


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## Chris-PA (Jul 9, 2011)

*Chain Oil Pump Question*

I still don't have the oil pump working properly, and I suspect the pump has failed. I do not see any kind of check valve on the pump inlet, and I don't see any way it can work without one. Does anyone know if there was supposed to be a valve behind the small brass inlet port that's pressed into the pump body? Or is there a check valve in the inlet filter? I can order a new pump, but if I keep ordering saw parts I'm going to start hearing about it, so I want to make sure it's worth it first!


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## Warped5 (Jul 9, 2011)

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> I still don't have the oil pump working properly, and I suspect the pump has failed. I do not see any kind of check valve on the pump inlet, and I don't see any way it can work without one. Does anyone know if there was supposed to be a valve behind the small brass inlet port that's pressed into the pump body? Or is there a check valve in the inlet filter? I can order a new pump, but if I keep ordering saw parts I'm going to start hearing about it, so I want to make sure it's worth it first!


 
WHW - Members here have well-chronicled the oiling system on this saw family. It is not the oil pump as much as it is the diaphragm/gasket hardening/deteriorating/failing. The overwhelming course of action is to take the oiler off the saw along with the mounting plate its on. Clean out the pump completely; compressed air and Sea Foam work well. Order up a new diaphragm and gasket; make _sure_ you receive the correct ones. Bolt it all up and you should be good to go. This is exactly what I did and mine is now fine. PM me if you need an IPL or for parts sourcing. Good luck!


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## Chris-PA (Jul 9, 2011)

*Oil Pump Works*

Just to follow up, I got it working - maybe I was just being overcautious/paranoid/stupid, but it's working great now.

I took the pump apart and cleaned it again, then reassembled with a light smear of Permatex Form-A-Gasket non-hardening sealant around all the inlet port surfaces. Then I cleaned out the oil fill cap with brake cleaner. I don't know if any of that actually accomplished anything.

I was up in the woods cutting for a while today and the saw is running really well. It is a huge contrast after running smaller displacement Poulans with less aggressive chains. 

I'd still curious about the 3420 and where they fit time-wise in the PM605/Timber Bear lineup. I read somewhere that they were made in the 1994 -1996 period, but the manual is dated 1991.


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## rustycar22000 (Aug 18, 2011)

*Time Frame?*

Hey Woodheatwarrior, I pulled out my Manual and its dated 1995. I purchased the saw 3/5/98 per the receipt still stapled inside. So your saw is probably a mid 90s. Without photos to add to this, the front cover looks like this...

Timberbear Power Mac 605-20

Pro-Mac 605, 610, 5700 Silver Eagle 3420, 3720

Super Pro-Mac 610 Eager Beave 3.4, 3.7

If anyone needs a copy for whatever, contact me. I'll copy it and mail it


[email protected]


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## Chris-PA (Aug 18, 2011)

rustycar22000 said:


> Hey Woodheatwarrior, I pulled out my Manual and its dated 1995. I purchased the saw 3/5/98 per the receipt still stapled inside. So your saw is probably a mid 90s. Without photos to add to this, the front cover looks like this...
> 
> Timberbear Power Mac 605-20
> 
> ...


Mine is Mod# 60013409, Ser# 11 010149

The manual is copyright 1991 and the cover lists only the 3420 and 3720.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/6057994340/" title="IMG_5269-800 by GWChris, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6210/6057994340_96ae662e32_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_5269-800"></a>


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## rustycar22000 (Aug 19, 2011)

Hey At Least You Got A Good Ole Silver Eagle What Bar Length?


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## Chris-PA (Aug 19, 2011)

rustycar22000 said:


> Hey At Least You Got A Good Ole Silver Eagle What Bar Length?


It's a 20" bar. Thanks for the info BTW. I thought the Silver Eagles were the last versions, but apparently not.


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## n9viw (Nov 14, 2011)

*ANOTHER Timber Bear?!*

Not enough wood cutting's got us TB owners coming out of the woodwork! Sorry. 

I picked up my TB (Mod. 60013414) at a swap meet. It had good compression and wasn't stuck, but it didn't fire, was missing the brake arm, and was rusty and grubby as all get out. I was going to leave it, but the guy said make him an offer, so I said my price - FIVE BUCKS - and he took it! It's been sitting in my shed since, and that was about 4 years ago! Heck, $5 isn't bad just for parts.

In the process of also resurrecting a Pro Mac 6A and my Dad's old Echo CS-900EVL (34" bar on it, that baby walks thru oak like it's pine, but it vibrates like a steam loco so I can't keep mufflers on it, and it fragged the replaceable nose a while back due to a clogged oiler), I pulled the TB out and started tinkering. The chain is hashed (rusty/stuck links, but still sharp), and the bar nose sprocket was stuck but came free with some help... a soak in some kerosene should do it up right. It had air and fresh fuel, and it popped a couple times, but I couldn't get it to fire to save my life!

I pulled the plug (AC R46SX), and the ground tab was bent all the way to the electrode... well, I guess THAT would explain no fire! I straightened it (but neglected to peek inside the cylinder to look at the piston top) and reinstalled it. A few pulls, still nothing... pulled the plug, and the tab was bent again. THIS was when I took that peek and noted that the piston was marked, but didn't seem to be overly damaged.

I've ordered the correct replacement (the store didn't have the AC CS45T, but several sites have called out the Champion RDJ6/6C as a replacement, which he had), and hope to get some fire out of it later this week. In the meantime, I have to fab up a choke rod (planning to use a custom-bent coathanger... honestly, plastic parts don't belong on a chainsaw) and get a new chain. I'd also like to get the brake arm, because while it might add a layer of annoyance to changing the B/C, I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it. I'll read thru the manual beg sticky to see if someone's got it up there.

Oh, yeah- long time lurker, first time poster. Glad to be here, this place is IN-DI-SPENSABLE!


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## manatrash (Dec 21, 2011)

i have a timber bear 60013414 that has 1 inch crack on the oil tank.anybody know of a good reliable way of a patch.i found tanks online but they are for the 60000 series 3.7? i think mine is a 3.4,are there other models that will fit mine.is this tank magnesium or aluminum,if it is aluminum i can have a friend weld

thanx for any answers chris.


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## heimannm (Dec 21, 2011)

The oil tanks will interchange between all of the 600 Series saws. Having been filled and soaked with oil for so many years I doubt welding is a viable option. It might be possible to grind and clean the cracked area and patch it with some epoxy (JB Weld) or maybe polyesther like a fiberglass repair but why bother when there are so many donor saw available.

Mark


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## a. palmer jr. (Dec 21, 2011)

Austin1 said:


> I think Mac put the name Eager beaver 70s/80s&later Timber Bear on saw's also allot.I thought the bigger macs made in the 90s were put together in Mexico? at least that is what I remember from 15 years ago



Later models were made in mexico. You have to have a scraper to get that sticker off, it's on pretty good...


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## SS396driver (Jan 16, 2012)

My neighbor gave me one over the weekend










runs well I think I may need to take the oiler apart . or maybe I should try some lighter oil was 15° when I tried it out on saturday. But it smokes like all out when I first start it so I assume the oiler diaphram is shot.


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## Angelos (Jan 16, 2012)

Timber bear was my first saw. About 20 years ago it was brought to me from the U.S.
It features a manual oiler. I can't get it running and no one is able to fix it around here.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 16, 2012)

SS396driver said:


> My neighbor gave me one over the weekend
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Let us know what you find out...mine does the same thing. Sounds like you have a good neighbor.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 16, 2012)

Angelos said:


> Timber bear was my first saw. About 20 years ago it was brought to me from the U.S.
> It features a manual oiler. I can't get it running and no one is able to fix it around here.



Check it to see if it has spark. Those were kinda known for modules going out. I just replaced one on my 610, same saw as Timber Bear. You can sometimes find modules for those on 'the bay, but make sure yours is bad first.


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## Somesawguy (Jan 16, 2012)

SS396driver said:


> My neighbor gave me one over the weekend
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Nice find. A thinner oil may help. Have you taken the bar off to see if it's pumping at all? Sometimes the oil port gets clogged up with sawdust. 

I have one just like that. It's a bit heavy, but it puts out the wood chips. :hmm3grin2orange:


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## Angelos (Jan 16, 2012)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Check it to see if it has spark. Those were kinda known for modules going out. I just replaced one on my 610, same saw as Timber Bear. You can sometimes find modules for those on 'the bay, but make sure yours is bad first.



Yes , I'll try that. Thanks


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## Chris-PA (Jan 16, 2012)

SS396driver said:


> My neighbor gave me one over the weekend
> 
> runs well I think I may need to take the oiler apart . or maybe I should try some lighter oil was 15° when I tried it out on saturday. But it smokes like all out when I first start it so I assume the oiler diaphram is shot.


Regular bar oil is pretty thick at 15°. On the other hand, the tank is right under the bottom end of the engine so it will get heated. 

Check and see if the manual oiler works. From what I can tell the manual and auto pumps are fairly independent other than inlet and outlet and being in the same housing. The oil pickup line in the tank often deteriorates and then you won't get any oil, although if you fill the tank and tilt it back on it's tail you might be able to submerge the remains of the pickup line for testing.

We were discussing the smoking recently on another thread. Mine smokes a lot at startup until warm but the pump diaphragm and gasket are good, and it stops smoking after it's run hard.


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## heimannm (Jan 16, 2012)

The automatic oiler on the 600 Series saws are operated off crank case impulse pressure like so many McCulloch saws before them.

If the gasket or diaphragm leak a little, some bar oil will find its way into the crank case while the saw is setting. As a result, they smoke for a few minutes when you start them until the oil is cleared out. Some will continue to smoke aggressively when you operate the manual oiler as well. It is annoying and can lead to excessive carbon build up in the long run.

Mark


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 16, 2012)

heimannm said:


> The automatic oiler on the 600 Series saws are operated off crank case impulse pressure like so many McCulloch saws before them.
> 
> If the gasket or diaphragm leak a little, some bar oil will find its way into the crank case while the saw is setting. As a result, they smoke for a few minutes when you start them until the oil is cleared out. Some will continue to smoke aggressively when you operate the manual oiler as well. It is annoying and can lead to excessive carbon build up in the long run.
> 
> Mark



Probably a good thing to just drain them if you're not gonna use them for awhile..


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## SS396driver (Jan 29, 2012)

I took the air cover off and there was oil all over the top . I am taking the pump off today to check it out. I checked chainsawr they dont list the diaphragm for this model


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 29, 2012)

SS396driver said:


> I took the air cover off and there was oil all over the top . I am taking the pump off today to check it out. I checked chainsawr they dont list the diaphragm for this model



It's probably one of those NLA items except for ebay and a few collectors.


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## SS396driver (Jan 29, 2012)

I cleaned the oil passage still no oil to the bar . I went to start it and the plug was so fouled with bar oil it wouldn't start . Cleaned and started right up I guess I need to get some parts or basterdise it somehow


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## SS396driver (Jan 29, 2012)

How do i know the year the model # is 60013414 serial # 11-156821


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## jongaydish (Mar 4, 2012)

*Good old American made quality*

I love the old Timber Bears, Pro-Macs and other McCulloch saws. I picked up a saw in pieces in a box that was probably 20 years old. I washed the parts, slapped it together, added fuel (mixed with Klotz oil only) and it fired up in only a few pulls! It is the best saw I've ever owned, crafted with an all metal engine with dual piston rings and solid American made parts. I would match it against ANY modern plastic p.o.s. (Husquvarna, Poulan, Stihl, and new McCullochs) any day of the week! They can keep their Chinese made junk saws. My 80's 655 will run all day without overheating or getting stuck in the wood I am cutting. Long live American made quality!


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 5, 2012)

*Sane Here...*



heimannm said:


> The automatic oiler on the 600 Series saws are operated off crank case impulse pressure like so many McCulloch saws before them.
> 
> If the gasket or diaphragm leak a little, some bar oil will find its way into the crank case while the saw is setting. As a result, they smoke for a few minutes when you start them until the oil is cleared out. Some will continue to smoke aggressively when you operate the manual oiler as well. It is annoying and can lead to excessive carbon build up in the long run.
> 
> Mark


That's exactly how my Mac 605 works. I just wait awhile and the smoke stops. If I run two or more tanks, it goes away, sometimes for weeks at a time.

Still can't get the oiler on the 610 to go. Chain gets hot and stops dead. I'll try a few more tricks before I give up it. Has to be something simple clogging that oiler. Gummed up somewhere.


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## Chris-PA (Mar 6, 2012)

Wood Doctor said:


> That's exactly how my Mac 605 works. I just wait awhile and the smoke stops. If I run two or more tanks, it goes away, sometimes for weeks at a time.
> 
> Still can't get the oiler on the 610 to go. Chain gets hot and stops dead. I'll try a few more tricks before I give up it. Has to be something simple clogging that oiler. Gummed up somewhere.


Make sure the oil cap vent is clear - that was slowing mine down recently. The cap seals remarkably well.


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## ~Yellow Streak~ (May 27, 2012)

*Timber Bear Rocks*

I know this is an old thread but.....

I have an older Power Mac 340 a freind of mine gave me in pieces in a box, no fire. So, I put a listing on c-list that I wanted a McCulloch 300 series parts saw. A man called me and said he had a saw but he didn't know if I could use it. He said, "The only thing it has on it is Timber Bear". He said it wasn't running right and he had a lot of timber to cut, so he bought a Husky. He said, "It doesn't have a bar a chain, the bar fit the Husky. I'll take $15 for it". I was on it like smoke on a pile of you know what. I wasn't familiar with a Timber Bear but I sure was curious. When I felt the heft, I knew it was pretty powerful. I got it home, cleaned under the clutch cover, brushed the air filter off and put fresh gas in. It fired on the 3rd pull and sounded/felt MEAN. Reminded me of my old Homelite Super XL. I noticed that the fuel line was a little long in the carb box. I looked in the tank and the fuel filter was only about halfway down in the tank. I wonder why it wasn't running right?
I left the listing on c-list. :hmm3grin2orange:

Today a man called me and said, "I was at a yard sale and saw this McCulloch chain saw. I remembered my dads old McCulloch so I got it. It's got a long bar on it. It says TIMBER BEAR and if you want it, come get it". FREE

Do I have to repeat myself?

He had pulled the starter rope and it was dangling. I took it home and after some tugging, I got the starter drum off. I sanded and sanded the plastic drum spindle. I finally got the drum to go back on the spindle easily and spin freely. Checked the spark, primed the carb, and after about ten pulls, YES !

I love my Macs ! (Mac yellow)----> :msp_thumbsup:


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## Wood Doctor (May 28, 2012)

*Worth Looking At...*



WoodHeatWarrior said:


> Make sure the oil cap vent is clear - that was slowing mine down recently. The cap seals remarkably well.


I'll do that tomoorrow -- the first step to fix it. Yes, that oil cap does seal tight, always has. However, I have a feeling I'll have to dig deeper that that.

Yellow Streak, thanks for reviving the thread.


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## joe25DA (May 28, 2012)

Montgomery Wards 3.7 i finished a while back. I found it in a saw grave yard with a bunch of others I brought back from the dead. I was super dirty, but the oily grime protected it and under the gunk was a nice, clean low hour saw that runs good now after I went thru it.


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## Chris-PA (May 28, 2012)

Wood Doctor said:


> I'll do that tomoorrow -- the first step to fix it. Yes, that oil cap does seal tight, always has. However, I have a feeling I'll have to dig deeper that that.
> 
> Yellow Streak, thanks for reviving the thread.


One other thing I have found recently that made a huge difference - make sure the area between the inner bar plate and the oil tank is very clean. Otherwise the oil will not come out in the right place, even with the manual oiler. The inner and outer bar plate form a V at the top with the chain in between. The oil should well up in there when the chain is stopped. If not, you will see oil and it may seem like it's working, but the only oil getting to the bar is what runs down the case and drips onto the chain at the bottom of the bar. The bar will still be pretty dry. I blow that area clean with an air hose and my bar is now well oiled, even the 24" bar. I purposely ran an entire tank without touching the manual oiler full bar in oak and the chain was well oiled when I was done.


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## Sagetown (May 29, 2012)

joe25DA said:


> Montgomery Wards 3.7 i finished a while back. I found it in a saw grave yard with a bunch of others I brought back from the dead. I was super dirty, but the oily grime protected it and under the gunk was a nice, clean low hour saw that runs good now after I went thru it.





WoodHeatWarrior said:


> One other thing I have found recently that made a huge difference - make sure the area between the inner bar plate and the oil tank is very clean. Otherwise the oil will not come out in the right place, even with the manual oiler. The inner and outer bar plate form a V at the top with the chain in between. The oil should well up in there when the chain is stopped. If not, you will see oil and it may seem like it's working, but the only oil getting to the bar is what runs down the case and drips onto the chain at the bottom of the bar. The bar will still be pretty dry. I blow that area clean with an air hose and my bar is now well oiled, even the 24" bar. I purposely ran an entire tank without touching the manual oiler full bar in oak and the chain was well oiled when I was done.



Timber Bear Repped.


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## Warped5 (May 29, 2012)

Wood Doctor said:


> I'll do that tomoorrow -- the first step to fix it. Yes, that oil cap does seal tight, always has. However, I have a feeling I'll have to dig deeper that that.
> 
> Yellow Streak, thanks for reviving the thread.



The oilers on these are problems from time to time. If you get so deep as to remove it, you'll want to CLEAN it out and replace the diaphragm (or at least bring it back to life with a soak in DOT 3 brake fluid).




joe25DA said:


> Montgomery Wards 3.7 i finished a while back. I found it in a saw grave yard with a bunch of others I brought back from the dead. I was super dirty, but the oily grime protected it and under the gunk was a nice, clean low hour saw that runs good now after I went thru it.



That one looks great, Joe!


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## Somesawguy (May 29, 2012)

I have one with a 20" bar on it. It's a great saw even if it is a bit on the heavy side. There's just something about the sound of those old Macs that I love.


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## redheadwoodshed (May 29, 2012)

You got a good deal!Even if you have to rebuild the carb. and change the fuel line.Macs are hard to beat.


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## Somesawguy (May 29, 2012)

redheadwoodshed said:


> You got a good deal!Even if you have to rebuild the carb. and change the fuel line.Macs are hard to beat.



speaking of fuel lines, anyone know what size they use? Mine needs to be replaced.


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## ~Yellow Streak~ (May 30, 2012)

Cool! That Montgomery Ward is just like the Pro Mac 610/650, with the full wrap-around brake lever. That could come in handy in a nasty situation when you're felling. My TB's just have the flag brake levers.

The Timber Bear that I bought has a problem with the oil line. When I press on the manual oiler, then let go, I hear a gurgle in the tank. I think the oil line has a split in the tank. I've had the oiler apart and the diaphragm looks decent and the manual oiler did pump the prime oil I left in it. The TB that was given to me is in better shape than the one I bought. It's manual oiler is working great. I still have to go through it before test running it.

SomeSawGuy.... My TB has about 1/4" O.D. Tygon on it. Unsure of the I.D. but probably about 1/8".

I love how easy it is to work on the 600 series. Well designed.


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## BrocLuno (Jun 4, 2012)

SS396driver said:


> My neighbor gave me one over the weekend
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Nice saw in good shape. Will need TLC, but you'll like when running right. Especially good bucking fire wood. The weight is not so much a penalty when cutting down.

Thanks the neighbor. He did you well


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## ~Yellow Streak~ (Jun 6, 2012)

*Cases. Going.... Going...*

Just thought I'd show y'all my "personalized" Timber Bear nestled in a Poo-Land case I recently purchased (That's a gel motorcycle grip on the handle). I purchased the case on Amazon (at present, $29.99 and free shipping). I had to modify the case a little by using a heat gun and mashing a few corners back in the bottom of the case, so the saw fit down in the bottom better. I heated, then used a piece of flat wood to mash a few corners back. I've included a photo of the spots I had to modify. The cases are branded with the Poo-Land name on top. I'll probably just fill that in with black silicone. After receiving the 1st case, I bought another one for my other Timber Bear!!!

Rather than describe the cases here, I have reviewed them at Amazon under the user name *ME*

Cheers!  

Daryl

View attachment 240749

View attachment 240746


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## heimannm (Jun 6, 2012)

I have one original McCulloch yellow case with the detachable scabbard for the 600 Series saws. I can't quite match Amazon's shipping offer but I am willing to make someone a good deal if you're interested.

Mark


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 6, 2012)

~Yellow Streak~ said:


> Just thought I'd show y'all my "personalized" Timber Bear nestled in a Poo-Land case I recently purchased (That's a gel motorcycle grip on the handle). I purchased the case on Amazon (at present, $29.99 and free shipping). I had to modify the case a little by using a heat gun and mashing a few corners back in the bottom of the case, so the saw fit down in the bottom better. I heated, then used a piece of flat wood to mash a few corners back. I've included a photo of the spots I had to modify. The cases are branded with the Poo-Land name on top. I'll probably just fill that in with black silicone. After receiving the 1st case, I bought another one for my other Timber Bear!!!
> 
> Rather than describe the cases here, I have reviewed them at Amazon under the user name *ME*
> 
> ...



You did a good job making it fit. I have a bunch of scabbards but got rid of the cases..takes up too much room.


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## ~Yellow Streak~ (Jun 6, 2012)

a. palmer jr. said:


> You did a good job making it fit. I have a bunch of scabbards but got rid of the cases..takes up too much room.



Thanks a. palmer jr.,

Yeah, I know the 600 series ain't no collectors items, since they aren't but about 20+/- years old, but they sell good on thebay and I just like to protect my Macs the best I can. I have a Pwr Mac 310 in the original yellow case. The scabbard has a slit in it where cutters have sliced it. You wouldn't happen to have a 16" yellow scabbard you'd let go of would ya? Then I could cut the "McCulloch" name sections out of my old scabbard and pop rivet them on top of the Poo-Land cases. 

P.S. No offense to you Pou*lan owners. I like alot of the "old" ones myself. I'm mainly misspelling it so the thread doesn't come up in someones search and they look needlessly.

Daryl


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 6, 2012)

~Yellow Streak~ said:


> Thanks a. palmer jr.,
> 
> Yeah, I know the 600 series ain't no collectors items, since they aren't but about 20+/- years old, but they sell good on thebay and I just like to protect my Macs the best I can. I have a Pwr Mac 310 in the original yellow case. The scabbard has a slit in it where cutters have sliced it. You wouldn't happen to have a 16" yellow scabbard you'd let go of would ya? Then I could cut the "McCulloch" name sections out of my old scabbard and pop rivet them on top of the Poo-Land cases.
> 
> ...



It looks to me like the 600 saws ARE a collectors item. Like you said, they're selling really good on 'the bay. I'd like to get a scabbard for all my saws but unfortunately don't have enough for that. Many of the cases I've had are one piece like the Homelites so don't have a scabbard with them.


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## ~Yellow Streak~ (Jun 6, 2012)

a. palmer jr. said:


> It looks to me like the 600 saws ARE a collectors item. Like you said, they're selling really good on 'the bay. I'd like to get a scabbard for all my saws but unfortunately don't have enough for that. Many of the cases I've had are one piece like the Homelites so don't have a scabbard with them.



Yeah, I guess you're right. Although, I wouldn't let mine go for some of the prices I've seen 'em go for lately on thebay. I'll snatch up every 600 series I come across locally and any other older Macs I come across, if the price is right. I'd even buy a used one of the taiwanese plasti-macs if the price was right. Just to tinker.

Check out thebay item number 180587988626
I bought three of them and each additional item's shipping is free.
They're for the newer McCulloch cases but, they serve the purpose of a scabbard!!
Albeit, only up to a 20" bar.

Best, Daryl


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## heimannm (Jun 6, 2012)

I took my 655 out tonight just to test it, it will never replace the Stihl 036 or my 7-10 but it's not a bad saw. Needs just a bit more carburetor adjustment to get it exactly right.

I have 8 or 10 yellow scabbards like the ones designed for use with a case, I don't remember exactly what I paid for them but the next day the same seller had another 10 listed. Keep watching e-bay as they do come up frequently.

Mark


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## ~Yellow Streak~ (Jun 7, 2012)

Yeah, customchainsawparts has some 18" ones on there right now. $10 each and $7 shipping with not much of a cut on additional item shipping. I'd never put a 18" bar on the 310. Way too underpowered for that. I've noticed some parts 310's go pretty cheap on there, with a bar cover. That'd be the way I'd go. Extra parts or fix-up.

You'd have to cut a notch in the scabbards I mentioned in my last post in order for them to be useable with the older cases. A square notch for the lid to close into. They are taller. At least, that's the "case" with my 310 case. I don't know if they would work in, say, a 600 series case. The only McCulloch case I have is the 310.

Best, Daryl


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## ~Yellow Streak~ (Jun 9, 2012)

Ahhhh, now I see why it's been so quite in this thread. All you long time Mac guys have been patiently waiting, snickering when you think about it, and wondering when Yellow Streak was going to post back on his post about.....

(Quote) The Timber Bear that I bought has a problem with the oil line. When I press on the manual oiler, then let go, I hear a gurgle in the tank. I think the oil line has a split in the tank.

And then him saying....

(Quote) I love how easy it is to work on the 600 series. Well designed.

*AAARRRRRGGGGH !!!
IS THERE AN EASY WAY TO PUT A NEW OIL LINE ON THIS BIOTCH !!?? * :bang:

I can't see an easy way so....
Which way does the flywheel nut come off? (clockwise or counter)
Am I gonna be able to use a feeler guage like you would use on car valves to reset the coil air gap?
Will I have to use sealer between the oil tank and crankcase and how am I gonna keep sealer out of the oil gallery going to the bar? (I'm thinking that this mating surface would be just left bare and the close tolerances would suffice)

AND MY OTHER TIMBER BEAR HAS A CROSS-THREADED BAR BOLT, SO I'LL HAVE TO GO THROUGH THIS AGAIN !!! :bang:

I tell ya what... If I DO have to tear the oil tank (and coil, and flywheel, and clutch, and oil pump....) off to replace the #@%& tube, I'll be temped to see if I can run a brass tube through there that ends up about the middle of the oil tank filler hole. Epoxy that sucker in there!! :hmm3grin2orange: (save the next guy a headache, if not me)

By the way, If I'm going to have to go to all this trouble, what kind of muff mods are possible with the 600 series?

Daryl


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## Chris-PA (Jun 9, 2012)

~Yellow Streak~ said:


> Ahhhh, now I see why it's been so quite in this thread. All you long time Mac guys have been patiently waiting, snickering when you think about it, and wondering when Yellow Streak was going to post back on his post about.....
> 
> (Quote) The Timber Bear that I bought has a problem with the oil line. When I press on the manual oiler, then let go, I hear a gurgle in the tank. I think the oil line has a split in the tank.
> 
> ...


LOL - Chill dude, it's not that bad! I don't remember which way the flywheel nut comes off, maybe someone else can fill that in. Yes you will need sealant on the tank mating surface. It's not hard to put on. I also don't remember having to take off the coil, but if you do I just use a piece of cardboard to shim them. It seems like a big deal job but it's really not, just a minor PITA.


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## ~Yellow Streak~ (Jun 9, 2012)

Thanks woodheatwarrior,

It is so much easier on my little 310. I was mainly just trying to give a chuckle. Glad I did. 
It is a little frustrating. I'm wanting to run one of these puppies!

[edit] After examining the IPL again, I see what you mean woodheatwarrior. The crankcase actually forms the back wall of the oil tank. If I can find a small enough mirror, I'm gonna try my darndest to replace this hose without tearing it down. I just can't see the nipple. I'm thinking you could coil a coat hanger so that the new oil line is snug in it, and eventually work it on the nipple. It also appears that if you tap the old bar bolt out, it simply falls into the bottom of the oil tank. Then you could take a pair of long hemostats and put the new bar bolt in place. The bar bolt shouldn't need any sealer because, after all, it comes through at the bar. It'd probably be best to put a little silicone sealer on there though, so it wouldn't possibly seep and drip. I'll post back if I'm successful.

Daryl


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 9, 2012)

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> LOL - Chill dude, it's not that bad! I don't remember which way the flywheel nut comes off, maybe someone else can fill that in. Yes you will need sealant on the tank mating surface. It's not hard to put on. I also don't remember having to take off the coil, but if you do I just use a piece of cardboard to shim them. It seems like a big deal job but it's really not, just a minor PITA.



You can also use a feeler gauge if you wish.


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## ~Yellow Streak~ (Jun 10, 2012)

Well, scratch my idea about using a bent coat hanger. That was a total brainfart. After I realized, "What was I thinking", I did contemplate taking a hole saw to the top of the oil tank and finding a rubber plug afterwards.
(actually, that's not a bad idea now that I have the tank off. *IF* you could keep from fracturing the casting)

I wish I had the time to take pictures and make a detailed description of this operation to help others. I'm not very good with photography. I only had to remove the clutch, inner bar plate, bottom shroud, muffler and oil pump assembly to get to the point where I could remove the oil tank bolts. Whether I'll have to loosen the coil and reset the air gap after reassembly is yet to be seen.

What sealer would be best to seal the tank back to the crankcase? Hardening Permatex? Other? Also, McCulloch used a red thread lock of some kind on the bolts. What thread lock would be best (as far as ease of removal next time)? Any preferences?

D


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## Eccentric (Jun 10, 2012)

~Yellow Streak~ said:


> Well, scratch my idea about using a bent coat hanger. That was a total brainfart. After I realized, "What was I thinking", I did contemplate taking a hole saw to the top of the oil tank and finding a rubber plug afterwards.
> (actually, that's not a bad idea now that I have the tank off. *IF* you could keep from fracturing the casting)
> 
> I wish I had the time to take pictures and make a detailed description of this operation to help others. I'm not very good with photography. I only had to remove the clutch, inner bar plate, bottom shroud, muffler and oil pump assembly to get to the point where I could remove the oil tank bolts. Whether I'll have to loosen the coil and reset the air gap after reassembly is yet to be seen.
> ...



Blue Loctite 242. Clean the oil off of the bolts and out of the holes first. As for the sealer, Threebond 1194 is where it's at. Go to your local Honda motorcycle shop and get a tube of Hondabond-4. It's the same thing. Just packaged for Honda. The Honda part number even has "1194" in it. There's a Yamabond that's the same too. I think it's also "4", as in Yamabond-4. Same with Suzukibond-4 and Kawasakibond-4. All made by Threebond...

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/overview/loctite-threadlocker-blue-242.htm

http://www.threebond.co.uk/PRODUCTS/ThreeBondSealants/LiquidGaskets/tabid/229/Default.aspx

http://www.google.com/products/cata...a=X&ei=MubUT6fQNeKe2AXVleXqDw&ved=0CHoQ8wIwAQ


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## Chris-PA (Jun 10, 2012)

Seal-All at Advance Auto.


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## ~Yellow Streak~ (Jun 10, 2012)

Thanks Eccentric !

Thanks woodheatwarrior !



D


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## ~Yellow Streak~ (Jun 11, 2012)

*Oil Tank To Crankcase Sealer*

OK, I'm always one to research a product recommendation and upon researching the hondabond/threebond sealer, I found reports that the product is not the same as the original "grey" sealer and is now a silicone based sealer (conflicting reviews/comments). It was also reported that the hondabond is about $11/2.5oz (before tax), that you would likely be told that it would have to be ordered and it would take a week to receive.

So, I thought about Napa. I have found unordinary products there before. I went to the Napa website and clicked on "sealers/gasket makers" (or something like that) and came up with about 300+ products. After shuffling through the pages I found Curil K2 (75ml, about 2.5oz, $8.99), a German product (by the way... it's only listed at Napa as "Block Sealer"). I also got the Permatex 242 threadlock 6ml (only listed under "threadlock 242").
And, the icing on the cake.... They had 1/4" Tygon ($1.50+tax/foot).

Here is a link to the Technical Datasheet... http://www.elring.de/pdf/compound/Curil_K2_en_scr.pdf 
This datasheet doesn't give you a lot of the other information you can find online.
Should be a good product. The VeeW/Pourshe clubbers use it on the crankcases of the horizontally opposed engines. There's also Curil T, but it's a little extreme for this application. Also, Napa has Curil T listed as being a silicone base. (?)

I just wish they had "green" bar oil. (I'm going to search the other threads on this subject)

Any thoughts?

D


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## homemadercboat (Jul 5, 2012)

i know this thread is a month old but i just rebuilt my timber bear and im wondering what engine oil to use. 40:1 or 20:1??? (im a newb but im trying:msp_wink


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## Warped5 (Jul 5, 2012)

homemadercboat said:


> i know this thread is a month old but i just rebuilt my timber bear and im wondering what engine oil to use. 40:1 or 20:1??? (im a newb but im trying:msp_wink



As you would any other saw, use a quality two-stroke oil.

Yep, go ahead and mix it at 50:1, the newer technology lube will not fail.


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## swertz (Nov 6, 2016)

heimannm said:


> 600134 is a Pro Mac 605, the -14 indicates it is a later model. My lists only go up to 1987 which stopped at -06.
> 
> With McCulloch it is often difficult to say with certainty as they changed things around quite a lot, but that saw would be 3.7 In³ or 60/61 cc depending on how you round it.
> 
> ...


Hey Mark,

I have posted a few times today as I am a new member. I just bought a McCulloch PM 605 today at an estate sale and I am looking for an owners manual. If you have anything that will tell me how to get this saw ready to start, that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Scott
[email protected]


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## astnmacgto (Nov 6, 2016)

swertz said:


> Hey Mark,
> 
> I have posted a few times today as I am a new member. I just bought a McCulloch PM 605 today at an estate sale and I am looking for an owners manual. If you have anything that will tell me how to get this saw ready to start, that would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> ...


Go to the beg for manuals thread in the chainsaw stickies section and ask there. It shouldn't take long.


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## Wood Doctor (Nov 6, 2016)

astnmacgto said:


> Go to the beg for manuals thread in the chainsaw stickies section and ask there. It shouldn't take long.


The Mac 605, 610, and 650 manuals are excellent. I still have my original, first published in 1977. Most of the instructions are still valid today and apply to many saws besides Macs.

Note: my 605 still smokes a little when you first start it. Let it run a little and it goes away.


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## astnmacgto (Nov 6, 2016)

Wood Doctor said:


> The Mac 605, 610, and 650 manuals are excellent. I still have my original, first published in 1977. Most of the instructions are still valid today and apply to many saws besides Macs.
> 
> Note: my 605 still smokes a little when you first start it. Let it run a little and it goes away.


I have some hard copies and also an electronic copy but I have no way to get it on here as I only use the site from my phone. And yeah I really love my ipl's. They make everything better. I actually have a master mcculloch parts and pricing catalog that is really neat


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## ray benson (Nov 6, 2016)

astnmacgto said:


> Go to the beg for manuals thread in the chainsaw stickies section and ask there. It shouldn't take long.


Already sent ipl and service manual. Nobody has ever come forward with an owners manual in pdf.


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## astnmacgto (Nov 6, 2016)

ray benson said:


> Already sent ipl and service manual. Nobody has ever come forward with an owners manual in pdf.


You the man Ray, idk if I have an owners manual in pdf or not I'll have to check


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## Wood Doctor (Nov 7, 2016)

ray benson said:


> Already sent ipl and service manual. Nobody has ever come forward with an owners manual in pdf.


Well, what that means is that Ray had defined a rainy day project for me:

(1) Scan the manual that I have, old as it may be, page by page.
(2) Save the scanned pages, one-by one as a combined PDF ready to attach to an e-mail. (not easy)

I suppose I could do that, but I had no idea anybody wanted one.


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## astnmacgto (Nov 7, 2016)

Wood Doctor said:


> Well, what that means is that Ray had defined a rainy day project for me:
> 
> (1) Scan the manual that I have, old as it may be, page by page.
> (2) Save the scanned pages, one-by one as a combined PDF ready to attach to an e-mail. (not easy)
> ...


I'm always looking for more info, I like all those old manuals.


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## ray benson (Nov 7, 2016)

Wood Doctor said:


> Well, what that means is that Ray had defined a rainy day project for me:
> 
> (1) Scan the manual that I have, old as it may be, page by page.
> (2) Save the scanned pages, one-by one as a combined PDF ready to attach to an e-mail. (not easy)
> ...


2 or 3 members have asked in the last year. Mcculloch does not have it on their manuals download page.


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## ~Yellow Streak~ (Nov 8, 2016)

Well, if I took the time to set my old computer up, I believe I have a Timber Bear user manual pdf from the 90's which would be generally applicable to the various 600 series saws as well. The 605 is a 55(ish)cc saw, just like the Timber Bear. I'd have to disconnect and move my new computer out of the way. I'll see if I can get the gumption up later today. I have a lot of irons in the fire. If not, I'll PM ya when I get it done swertz.

There's a lot of stuff I would like to retrieve off that computer. If my new computer had an IDE connector I'd just hook that old hard drive up and bingo, but my new computer is SATA. One of these days I'll burn that slave hard drive to cd(s). Procrastination.....


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## Chris-PA (Nov 8, 2016)

~Yellow Streak~ said:


> If my new computer had an IDE connector I'd just hook that old hard drive up and bingo, but my new computer is SATA.


Get an IDE to USB adapter. They have SATA to USB adapters too - both extremely useful.


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## a. palmer jr. (Nov 9, 2016)

Austin1 said:


> I think Mac put the name Eager beaver 70s/80s&later Timber Bear on saw's also allot.I thought the bigger macs made in the 90s were put together in Mexico? at least that is what I remember from 15 years ago


 That is correct. I had one until recently. I have a 605 now and think it was built there as well.


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## Wood Doctor (Nov 9, 2016)

ray benson said:


> 2 or 3 members have asked in the last year. Mcculloch does not have it on their manuals download page.


If McCulloch does have the owner's manual on their manuals download page, then I should not supply it. That's potentially violation of copyright. I did not even realize that McCulloch was still in business.


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## ray benson (Nov 9, 2016)

Wood Doctor said:


> If McCulloch does have the owner's manual on their manuals download page, then I should not supply it. That's potentially violation of copyright. I did not even realize that McCulloch was still in business.


They have the ipl but no owners manual.
http://www.mcculloch.com/uk/support/owners-manuals/?query=PM605&types=O,I


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## Wood Doctor (Nov 9, 2016)

ray benson said:


> They have the ipl but no owners manual.
> http://www.mcculloch.com/uk/support/owners-manuals/?query=PM605&types=O,I


OK, Ray, but give me a few days to deliver it. I'm up to my ears in log splitter repairs and firewood deliveries. I may have to send it to you first.

I have a 610, 605, and a 5700 that run today. These are great old saws.


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## ray benson (Nov 9, 2016)

Wood Doctor said:


> OK, Ray, but give me a few days to deliver it. I'm up to my ears in log splitter repairs and firewood deliveries. I may have to send it to you first.
> 
> I have a 610, 605, and a 5700 that run today. These are great old saws.


No rush, Christmas is Ok.


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