# Weird problem with husqvarna 550 xp



## MamaMia (Apr 21, 2014)

Well that problems starts *just lately*. The problem is after when i refuel it i have *very hard* problem with start it again (mostly i need to pull it more then 10x times that she starts again).But when the fuel goes through (when finally starts again) the saw works normal till next refuel when the problem starts again. What could be the problem? Tnx


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## sunfish (Apr 21, 2014)

Are you using the purge bulb? If not, that's the problem.

Tried choke? High idle? Are you running it out of fuel?


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## RedFir Down (Apr 21, 2014)

Its the right above the pull rope handle. It removes air from carburetor and fuel system for easy starting.
When cold starting and starting the saw after you refuel it pump it a half dozen times or so.


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## MamaMia (Apr 21, 2014)

Well i was always using the same principle of starting and till now i never had this problem.


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## KenJax Tree (Apr 21, 2014)

If its a problems send it to me i'll give you $150 for it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RedFir Down (Apr 21, 2014)

You could possibly have another small issue happening causing this problem to show up.
Do you run NON-E fuel through the saw?


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## MamaMia (Apr 21, 2014)

LoL well i didnt give up on my 550 xp soo fast that i wanna sell it already.Till now it never let me down(and i have it already 2 years)


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## MamaMia (Apr 21, 2014)

NON-E fuel? can you explain what that means


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## w8ye (Apr 21, 2014)

I always put the choke on and then off to set the carb on fast idle so the saw will start when warm


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## RedFir Down (Apr 21, 2014)

E= ethanol. Does your saw gas have ethanol in it?


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## MamaMia (Apr 21, 2014)

Well i just have hope that if someone here have the same problem can help me. But i know it is hard to explain via internet. the best is to see in real. Well i hope i will figure out the erorr and can report what was the cause


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## RedFir Down (Apr 21, 2014)

Im sure that using the primer bulb will cure your refuel/restart issue.
So does the gas station that you buy your fuel from have ethanol blended or is non ethanol?


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## MamaMia (Apr 21, 2014)

Well i am using all the time the same gas only the oil for mixture is different, *before* Xp *now* Xp Synthetic(both from husqvarna)


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## RedFir Down (Apr 21, 2014)

Im talking about ETHANOL in your GASOLINE, not the oil you are using.

This will help explain it better. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethanol_fuel


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## ckr74 (Apr 21, 2014)

What's ethanol got to with the problem? Just curious.


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## RedFir Down (Apr 21, 2014)

I have found that running ethanol through diaphragm pump style carburetors over time will "stiffen" the diaphragms, causing them to not pump fuel like they should. 
Just another thought about the OP's issue.


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## MamaMia (Apr 21, 2014)

Well but why this problem happen only first time after refuel. When the saw start i can turn it on and off normaly like before till new refueling


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## RedFir Down (Apr 21, 2014)

Running ethanol fuel over time will cause the diaphragm to become stiff... which means the carb will not pump 100%.
So when you run your saw out of fuel, refuel it and try to start it WITHOUT pumping the primer bulb the fuel line, primer bulb and carb are not going to have fuel in them.... which is requiring your carb (with a weak "pump" because the ethanol has reduced its pumping ability) to resupply fuel which is going to take alot of pulls on the rope like you are describing.


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## MamaMia (Apr 21, 2014)

Aha ok tnx for the explanation.


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## pro94lt (Apr 21, 2014)

Do you run it completely out or kill it as soon as it goes lean?


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## ckr74 (Apr 21, 2014)

As soon as I hear mine bog or start idling fast (lean), I shut it off. Even in the middle of a cut. This way the carb is not totally out of fuel. It just makes for easier starting after re-fueling.


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## sunfish (Apr 21, 2014)

RedFir Down said:


> Im talking about ETHANOL in your GASOLINE, not the oil you are using.
> 
> This will help explain it better. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethanol_fuel


I believe he is from a different country. Most other countries aren't as lucky as us with ethanol....


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## sunfish (Apr 21, 2014)

I'm still wondering if he uses the purge bulb?


RedFir Down said:


> *Im sure that using the primer bulb will cure your refuel/restart issue.*
> So does the gas station that you buy your fuel from have ethanol blended or is non ethanol?


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## RedFir Down (Apr 21, 2014)

sunfish said:


> I'm still wondering if he uses the purge bulb?


Im not sure.... he hasn't explained much.


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## MamaMia (Apr 22, 2014)

Well i got a good tip on german chainsaw forum. The guy had the same problem like me. The Husqvarna dealer was clueless and has simply replaced the carburetor on warranty. Now saw work normaly like before. Soo it could be the carburetor. Well we will see


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## RedFir Down (Apr 22, 2014)

MamaMia said:


> Well i got a good tip on german chainsaw forum. The guy had the same problem like me. The Husqvarna dealer was clueless and has simply replaced the carburetor on warranty. Now saw work normaly like before. Soo it could be the carburetor. Well we will see


I think you need to go back and reread posts 2,3,10,12,14,16&18 in this thread.
Just so you the the diaphragm(s) are in the carburetor.
It would also be helpful to know if there is ethanol in the fuel you are using which was asked several times before.
I dont know what else to say..... Good luck!


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## xdarkknight (Aug 19, 2014)

So, I was only just introduced to huskys this January and having used stihls up to this point, I tried starting the husky the same has a stihl. Which is: unless you are OK with the awkward frustration of having one of the plastic starter "dogs" break from too much drop starting, you always use the compression button on top of all the newer saws.
I found, to my dismay (took me weeks to realise this), that I'd been starting my husky all wrong and putting it under loads of stress and mostly flooding the engine every time I attempted to start it. The key difference between starting my Stihl 261 and my Husky 550 xp was that you only press the compression valve button ONCE a day, at the beginning of your work, or it will retaliate and brick wall you from starting it. My mate has 4 H-550s and had the same problem with each of them. Very frustrating as we had bought them new for a sizable first thinning to progress with and this little obstacle was enough to make him almost throw in the towel.
I've swapped back and forth between Stihls and Huskys and if i forget and push the button, I can expect to do a hard start with my finger on the throttle or risk flooding.
In conclusion, use the compression button ONLY for the first start or you may as well be carrying around a glorified paper weight.

Thanks for listening! This has been my first post on this forum. If you happen to see nice-guy-Dave around, send him my way!


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## SawTroll (Aug 19, 2014)

sunfish said:


> I'm still wondering if he uses the purge bulb?



So am I, specially if he runs the tank dry before refueling (try to avoid that with any saw).

Try to avoid that, as it also means the saw is running very lean right before it quits.


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## xdarkknight (Aug 19, 2014)

Great way to burn out the engine. No more oil in the piston, running it dry.


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## cgraham1 (Aug 19, 2014)

I've never used a decomp when starting a saw. The only one that I've ever thought needed one is my Poulan 655 (98 cc), and the previous owner put a plug in it.


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## SawTroll (Aug 19, 2014)

cgraham1 said:


> I've never used a decomp when starting a saw. The only one that I've ever thought needed one is my Poulan 655 (98 cc), and the previous owner put a plug in it.



At least I don't on the 50cc saws...


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## MountainHigh (Aug 19, 2014)

without wishing to muddy the waters ... IF your 550xp works the same as my autotune 562xp starting procedure (and I believe it does), along with the good suggestions of using non-ethanol fuel and using the purge bulb to make sure the gas has arrived at the carb, this shows the exact method of HOT STARTING these saws:


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## hamish (Aug 19, 2014)

All you folks and your ethanol woes, trying running your saws more often, all mine drink ethanol and only ethanol, never a problem. But oh yeah I store my fuel properly and don't let it sit around for months.


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## TK (Aug 19, 2014)

Decomp valve isn't the problem. I push mine every time I pull the rope. Still starts fine.


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## ash man (Aug 20, 2014)

I'm with troll why use the decomp on a 50cc saw ever. Thank heaven the only saw i need to use the decomp on is a ported 394xp. Now if you don't with that saw your risking shoulder injury.


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## SawTroll (Aug 20, 2014)

I don't think deco valves can cause any real issues, unless they start leaking and make the saw run lean - and I don't think it has anything to do with the issue this thread is about.

Some times I read statements that some saws start better if not using the valve though.


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## wyk (Aug 20, 2014)

Your starter assembly will last longer when you use the decomp right.

As for Ethanol, most of Europe only has 5% at the moment - at least the ones that do have ethanol. Most of the higher octane fuel I have seen doesn't state it has ethanol(98-102 is available at some pumps). There was a warning issued by the German state agency, as well as some others, to the effect of 10% being bad for older cars, which I found interesting.


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## Chris-PA (Aug 20, 2014)

The purge bulb can also be a good diagnostic tool. It should pump out most of the air and fill with fuel. If it doesn't, then either you have an air leak into the fuel system or your fuel is boiling (vapor lock). Often the leak is the check valve in the carb allowing air to be pulled back through the fuel outlets (I find ZAMAs to be more vulnerable). 

I also use 10% ethanol fuel with no problems, except that increasingly I am experiencing hot start vapor lock issues across most of my saws and I am beginning to suspect the ethanol - but I have not looked into it enough to verify that. I set my saws in the shade if possible. Often I have to full choke hot saws to get them started, and keep them partially choked until they get running again, but then they run fine - this is a sure sign of vapor lock.


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## Natty Bumppo (Aug 20, 2014)

I have a Husky 555, also an autotune saw. If I'm running it and shut it down just long enough to refuel and oil, it starts up warm just fine. If I let it sit for 10 minutes and go to start it, it's hard to get going again.

I always try and refuel before I run it dry and use 91 octane, ethanol free fuel. I always use the purge for a cold start. Don't usually bother with it on a warm start. Maybe in the future I just need to try using the purge bulb and start it at high idle.


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## SawTroll (Aug 20, 2014)

Natty Bumppo said:


> I have a Husky 555, also an autotune saw. If I'm running it and shut it down just long enough to refuel and oil, it starts up warm just fine. If I let it sit for 10 minutes and go to start it, it's hard to get going again.
> 
> I always try and refuel before I run it dry and use 91 octane, ethanol free fuel. I always use the purge for a cold start. Don't usually bother with it on a warm start. Maybe in the future I just need to try using the purge bulb and start it at high idle.




"High idle" should always be used, according to the manual, and at least I expect it to be needed when it has been sitting for 10 minutes?

When everything else fails, try to look in the manual!


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## OnTheRoad (Aug 20, 2014)

Natty Bumppo said:


> I have a Husky 555, also an autotune saw. If I'm running it and shut it down just long enough to refuel and oil, it starts up warm just fine. If I let it sit for 10 minutes and go to start it, it's hard to get going again.
> 
> I always try and refuel before I run it dry and use 91 octane, ethanol free fuel. I always use the purge for a cold start. Don't usually bother with it on a warm start. Maybe in the future I just need to try using the purge bulb and start it at high idle.


This is exactly how you start an Autotune saw. When cold, use choke and at the first pop go to high idle. After a very brief shutdown high idle is not required, but after more than a couple of minutes you will want to use the high idle. 

If you are pulling more than 2-3 times you are doing something wrong.


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## MamaMia (Aug 26, 2014)

Is there any new version of AutoTune software? My saw is from 2012.


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## GrassGuerilla (Aug 26, 2014)

opcorn:


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## MCW (Aug 26, 2014)

Decomps are put on saws for a reason. Contrary to popular belief a man's willy does not grow an extra 2 inches if they don't use it. 
My stock 5100-S Dolmar that had 210psi compression certainly needed one at times...


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## GrassGuerilla (Aug 26, 2014)

Dang it. I guess I'm buying that pump after all.


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## angelo c (Aug 26, 2014)

MCW said:


> Decomps are put on saws for a reason. Contrary to popular belief a man's willy does not grow an extra 2 inches if they don't use it.
> My stock 5100-S Dolmar that had 210psi compression certainly needed one at times...


Decomps are put on saws so sheilas can't run 'em...us manly men from the states dont need no stinkeeen decomp buttons....what are ya European er sumptin ? Those guys need government intervention to start anything [emoji123]


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## MCW (Aug 26, 2014)

angelo c said:


> Decomps are put on saws so sheilas can't run 'em...us manly men from the states dont need no stinkeeen decomp buttons....what are ya European er sumptin ? Those guys need government intervention to start anything [emoji123]



Tell that to Stihl or Husky when you've broken the starter mechanism under warranty


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## angelo c (Aug 26, 2014)

Matt you know I'm pullin yer leg but....

Warrantees are for rich dudes...i aint ever bought a saw that had anything beyond a handshake as a warrantee. Heck i cant even spell warranty ?


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## MCW (Aug 27, 2014)

angelo c said:


> Matt you know I'm pullin yer leg but....
> 
> Warrantees are for rich dudes...i aint ever bought a saw that had anything beyond a handshake as a warrantee. Heck i cant even spell warranty ?



When you said "sheila" I knew you'd studied Aussie slang


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## angelo c (Aug 27, 2014)

MCW said:


> When you said "sheila" I knew you'd studied Aussie slang





Yes Matt, when i was younger i drank a "Fosters" or two and watched a few of them "Dundee" movies. 
That makes me a "mate" eh !!!!


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## MCW (Aug 27, 2014)

angelo c said:


> Yes Matt, when i was younger i drank a "Fosters" or two and watched a few of them "Dundee" movies.
> That makes me a "mate" eh !!!!



If you drank Fosters then you were way off the "Aussie" mark. Nobody here touches the stuff  Filthy dishwater that it is...


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## angelo c (Aug 27, 2014)

I was young and could not afford a real beer or one if them leather hats with the crock teeth on it... 

Now that im older i can afford "coors light" and tight leather pants....and dancing lessons....and pedicures. ... oh wait !!!!!


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## Ajh (Sep 12, 2020)

Ive had a 550xp since 2012. Used it for 3 years heavily doing lctt when new. No its used a few times a year to drop and chop dead ash trees. It is an eternal work horse with min maint. As in it sits in my unheated garage til needed, with same fuel and oil. Few pulls choked til it sputters and then one pull unchoked and shes rippin. Never fails BUT from day one it has always been a bear to start after a refuel. Whether ran empty or filled half way. Ive nust accepted it from day one because it is simply the best performi g ligbtweight saw they made at the time. A pound lighter to the comparable cc stihl and trust me, 10 hours a day a pound makes a world of difference. Even with the refuel start issues, ifs just a few more pulls and youre out cutting the crew and much less wrist strain. This is a saw i know will go gene4ations with nust the here and there replacwmwnt parts. Perfect saw w next to no maint needed.


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## Old2stroke (Sep 13, 2020)

Biggest problem I have with owners who can't get their saws started is getting them to understand the function of fast idle and how to get to it on their saw. Used to be a simple thing to explain when most saws had a button on the handle that could be engaged to hold the throttle partly open, of course that was too easy so now we have single control levers that do everything and owners who actually read their manuals still don't understand.


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