# Are all axes created equal?



## texican65 (Jun 6, 2016)

Probably not! I've only really ever used 1 axe the last 15 years...my brother gave it to me when I was 18, not sure who made it or if its junk? Never really put much thought into different axes, but to-day when I was splitting some rounds, my hands started hurting me, not something that usually happens. I just started wondering, is this tool perhaps not the best for what i'm using it for? I sharpen it ever so often, just not sure if its a good tool? Its a type of maul/wedge/axe, not sure what they're really called. What are some good hand held splitters that are effective and easy on the body?

Thanks,

Dow


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## Woodyjiw (Jun 6, 2016)

I've seen quite a few folks on the site rave about the Fiskars x27 splitting maul. 
I haven't used one yet but I did order one and it should be here in the next couple days. I'm excited to give it a run.


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## texican65 (Jun 6, 2016)

So ya...after reading reviews...seems like most folks want the Fiskar X27, and....it's made in Finland...not China...yes!!! It's 36" long though...is that a good size for an average size dude? I'm 5'10", 210 lbs, from my armpit to tip of my fingers is 27". Are the fiskars axe sharpeners worthy?

Dow


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## Jimbo209 (Jun 6, 2016)

Sharpeners is built like a kitchen roll through model, but on a different angle havent used mine just yet after a lot of wood 

Traditional Plastic fiberglass round handle 6lb mauls vibrate and blister hands on a short time, even when hardened.
Fiskars moulded hollow handle has much less handle shock, with only some blistering when chopping hard stringy twisted grain eucalyptus


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## Homeowner (Jun 6, 2016)

texican65 said:


> So ya...after reading reviews...seems like most folks want the Fiskar X27, and....it's made in Finland...not China...yes!!! It's 36" long though...is that a good size for an average size dude? I'm 5'10", 210 lbs, from my armpit to tip of my fingers is 27". Are the fiskars axe sharpeners worthy?
> 
> Dow



They kicked out lot of people and moved most of garden tool manufacturing to Poland recently, not sure if axes are made here anymore if those too are made in Poland now. Well, it is better than China I guess and in Poland there has been quite good skills of craftsmanship, not sure about industrial manufacturing though. 

Husqvarna axe is better than Fiskars from what I have read, Stihl axe might be something to try too, Fiskars is not only one doing high end axes, but with all you are going to pay a premium from high end status. 

Longer handle might be nice if accuracy is not so important, especially if hitting rounds knee height or lower, for me accuracy is more important than leverage as my splitting block is navel height and I use car tire on top of that, so I prefer shorter handles, what I lack with leverage from handle, I substitute with upper body strength, If I don't have the strength I need to bulk up  

Now that axe in photo needs better edge, first you need to grind combined angle of 30 degrees (15 degrees each side), then use stone that is used to sharpen a scythe to make combined angle of 50 degrees (25 degrees each side) for the very edge, that is so that edge will last better. 

See attached picture for better idea. Bottom of pic has oval shaped stone used to sharpen scythes and also that is recommended tool called Kovasin by those instructions to sharpen axes. Instructions are from forest tool guide from somewhere around 1948-1952, can't remember now exact year, but it was time when 4 inches of saw dust separated -20F outdoors and some heat indoors, all heating was done by wood and it was made with saws and axes, transported by horses and men, so tools had to be lot better than those of today as life really depended from those tools.

I have few axes, there is some history for Fiskars, there used to be Billnäs axes made in Billnäs Finland, Fiskars axes are kind of progression from those I believe, but Billnäs axe steel is superior to Fiskars steel, in my opinion. 
I don't need to sharpen my Billnäs nearly as often and those are something around 50 years old axes now. You might try to look those Billnäs axes from ebay, but hard to find and expensive these days. 

That shiny Billnäs with wooden short handle next to Fiskars in attached pic has no real difference in splitting ability to that Fiskars axe, but handle is much better, there is not much of any kind of shock when hitting with it, also it does not get stuck, where Fiskars likes to get stuck. 
I'm not very good at making handles though, I need to practice that lot more as well as grinding and sharpening my axes. 
That black Billnäs with long handle is work in progress, but might be I start all over with that. 
Big axe with thick handle and some yellow in axe head is also Billnäs, it is great for splitting dry spruce, Fiskars sucks splitting that as it gets stuck or bounces off. 
My Fiskars is something close to X17, but very old and worn, it had way too steep edge when I got it free, since then I have split so much wood with it that axe head has lost good bit of material from constant need of sharpening.


Chinese cheap axes don't hold edge so well and they are just rough axe shaped objects, you need to finish product yourself as it is with most Chinese products, but price is lot less than those high end axes. 
Blue handled small Chinese axe did cost something like 8$ and had no edge at all, it had two different angles at something that tried to be edge, but it was same as having no edge at all, needed lot of grinding, but now I can take shavings off from face of wood, similar to what I get with hand plane. That axe is used to carving stuff mostly, making axe handles was reason I bought it, useless at splitting but replaces knife quite often. 

Not all axes are created equal for sure and no single axe does not do all jobs, I really wish to get Husqvarna S2800 some day, but meanwhile I need to restore and service what I have. 

Last two pics I put up have Fiskars splitting wedge which I use to make 3ft long firewood for long term drying and tool we call vesuri, I don't know english name for it, but it is used to fell small stuff and de-limb a trees, works as axe replacement too as it is quite heavy for it's size. Requires strong forearms to use. 

I get wonderful burn to my arms with that tool, but use it often instead of chainsaw to cut limbs of from smaller trees I have felled with chainsaw, 20$ a gallon fuel is bit expensive to be burned when you can get by with hand tool.

So yeah, get right tool for the job and even not all axes are equal, you can get by with cheap Chinese ones too, they just require bit of modifying and bit more servicing!


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## texican65 (Jun 6, 2016)

Thanks a lot guys...especially Homeowner! Nice fleet you've got there. Cant believe I was so ignorant with axes. Going to go look at a few to-day. Do you prefer the older style axe head to the newer style on the Fiskars? 

Dow


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## Homeowner (Jun 6, 2016)

texican65 said:


> Thanks a lot guys...especially Homeowner! Nice fleet you've got there. Cant believe I was so ignorant with axes. Going to go look at a few to-day. Do you prefer the older style axe head to the newer style on the Fiskars?
> 
> Dow



Fiskars is great in there that I don't need to put new handle to it every now and then, even it tends to get stuck here and there, it is nice one, but I can't really put them one ahead of another, because I can get new Fiskars from the shop, but those old ones are no longer made, it is like comparing car and bike, both allow you to travel as fast as speed limit allows, but they are very different even they are very much same.

If older Billnäs would still be made and if I could make proper handles, then sure I would prefer that older style, but there are if words in there. 

Sorry that there is no definite answer, you are perhaps starting to see why I have all those axes and why I look having more in a future


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 15, 2016)

Homeowner said:


> They kicked out lot of people and moved most of garden tool manufacturing to Poland recently, not sure if axes are made here anymore if those too are made in Poland now. Well, it is better than China I guess and in Poland there has been quite good skills of craftsmanship, not sure about industrial manufacturing though.
> 
> Husqvarna axe is better than Fiskars from what I have read, Stihl axe might be something to try too, Fiskars is not only one doing high end axes, but with all you are going to pay a premium from high end status.
> 
> ...


Gasoline is $20/gallon in Finland??


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 15, 2016)

What kind of ax would you recommend for a woman for cutting small low-hanging limbs from trees and taking down small trees, probably 6" diameter max?
How can I sharpen the ax I have without a grinder? A file??

(I can be tough and I'm not afraid of hard work and sweat. )


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 15, 2016)

Vesuri= https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook


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## ANewSawyer (Jun 15, 2016)

The us forestry service has an axe manual, I believe it is called "An axe to grind". Here: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...ggbMAA&usg=AFQjCNGY2a233TBsiGOyQSPGhDV0erePag

I haven't read through it but it is as close to definitive as I know of. A Fiskars is hard to beat for the price but I would use a sharp machete for less than 1" branches. 20-24" would give plenty of reach. If you really want to see what axes can do, have a look on Bladeforums at there "Axe tomahawk and hatchet" sub forum.

You can sharpen most axes and hatchets with a 10" bastard file. That is the name, don't sue me. It takes a little skill and the knowledge of how to draw file. And a lot of time, I restored my grandfathers axe and it took me serveral hours to do. Block in a lot of time if you don't want to use power tools. I like an angle grinder with a flap wheel, myself.


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 15, 2016)

ANewSawyer said:


> The us forestry service has an axe manual, I believe it is called "An axe to grind". Here: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...ggbMAA&usg=AFQjCNGY2a233TBsiGOyQSPGhDV0erePag
> 
> I haven't read through it but it is as close to definitive as I know of. A Fiskars is hard to beat for the price but I would use a sharp machete for less than 1" branches. 20-24" would give plenty of reach. If you really want to see what axes can do, have a look on Bladeforums at there "Axe tomahawk and hatchet" sub forum.
> 
> You can sharpen most axes and hatchets with a 10" bastard file. That is the name, don't sue me. It takes a little skill and the knowledge of how to draw file. And a lot of time, I restored my grandfathers axe and it took me serveral hours to do. Block in a lot of time if you don't want to use power tools. I like an angle grinder with a flap wheel, myself.


Omg! Thanks for the great links - Everything I every wanted to know, and didn't know it, about an ax.
Lot's of good reading.


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## Homeowner (Jun 15, 2016)

TNTreeHugger said:


> What kind of ax would you recommend for a woman for cutting small low-hanging limbs from trees and taking down small trees, probably 6" diameter max?
> How can I sharpen the ax I have without a grinder? A file??
> 
> (I can be tough and I'm not afraid of hard work and sweat. )



You could sharpen axe with a file, if file is good one, it could take bit time and maintaining constant angle is not so easy, but yes, you can get it sharpened to some sharpness, maybe not the best possible but better than it is now. 

Splitting axe is not going to be good for that kind of work, you need an axe that is meant for general use for that, those are usually bit lighter.

There are some information about axe usage, might help with choosing an axe too: 
http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2011/07/basic-axe-use-part-1-chopping.html

You can get good axe that costs quite bit or cheap axe that does not work well until you modify it a bit so that it has proper edge. Modifying head with file will take hours on many days and using something like angle grinder will change temper of steel and easily ruins axe's ability to hold edge. 

I have read that in US you have True Temper brand used axes that can be found for little money and can be quite nice ones. Something 2-3 pounds in weight, head should be quite slim, handle length so that when axe head in in your palm, other end of the handle should touch your arm pit. Craigslist or local flea market etc. might be good places for used ones. They don't make axes like they used to, cheap Chinese ones are usually rubbish unless you modify them. 

Main thing is not to have too heavy axe as for pruning and felling weight is not so important as is sharp edge. 

There are of course over priced pruning tools like this which you can use instead of axe:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Fiskars-Pruning-Stik-Tree-Pruner/13376285

When felling tree with axe, I feel it is much harder to control direction where it fells into, with chainsaw it is so easy with smaller diameter trees, just saw and lean against tree with your shoulder and push the tree down, but with axe it can start going completely wrong direction quite easily, probably because I'm not too good with felling trees with axe, but anyway that is my experience. 

I don't use hand tools for much over 2 inch thick wood, it is so slow and tiring for bigger stuff, so some others might know better what is needed for those bigger trees. 

Also about sharpening an axe, after 3 years of practicing I start to get it, sharp is relative term I have found out, many knives and axes appear to me now to be so dull in shop that it would be same to use rock and still I have lot to learn.

One sales clerk got annoyed to me when I was looking for a knife and he showed me knife which would of not cut even my skin, he just replied that whatever one is used to being sharp, when I claimed knife is not sharp. When learning to sharpen tools standard goes up that way and with axes it is that they need to be really sharp for felling a tree for example. 

My little Fiskars was given to me by my father, he told to be careful with it as it is sharp, I did fell a 6" tree with it, but it took more than an hour, firstly it is splitting axe, secondly it had so dull edge that I could not cut paper with it, but for my father it probably was sharp axe, because most axes were even less sharp that he had and what I have seen people generally having. 

So, while you surely can use an axe to fell a tree, it might be bit bigger project because of learning curve in it, especially with getting axe sharp. One important thing is to get that 15 degree (30 degree combined) edge angle, that is tough job without grinding stone, but I have found it being most important part, after that axe is easy to get sharp. 

Of course easy way is to put down close to $80 so one gets really sharp axe (I guess there might be cheaper ones too), but if chainsaw is around double of that, then why to get axe for the job, there are many sides to consider.


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## Homeowner (Jun 15, 2016)

TNTreeHugger said:


> Gasoline is $20/gallon in Finland??



That is for premixed Alkylite fuel, which I use in my chainsaws and trimmer, so I do use axe and those other tools for smaller stuff to save in fuel costs, especially at winter, t-shirt is enough to near 0 degrees when using hand saw for cutting 5" or thicker logs for rounds and then chopping those.


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## Homeowner (Jun 15, 2016)

ANewSawyer said:


> I like an angle grinder with a flap wheel, myself.



I have done that too, but that axe did not hold edge too well after that, I had to take quite bit of material out until it was holding edge again. 

Somehow messes up with temper of steel, but of course works well for cheap axes that don't have a tempering in first place. For my big chinese axe I used that method to get even somewhat close to proper shape, had to remove lot of material. 

Grinding stone with water is great as it does not heat up the steel, not very fast but lot faster than a file.

File works really well for cheap axes of course too as there is no tempering in those cheapest ones, but those get dull quite quickly too.


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 15, 2016)

I've watched a few videos on how to sharpen an ax... this one looked good to me. What's your opinion?


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## ANewSawyer (Jun 15, 2016)

I will try watch it in the morning and let you know.


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## Homeowner (Jun 15, 2016)

TNTreeHugger said:


> I've watched a few videos on how to sharpen an ax... this one looked good to me. What's your opinion?




I have never done that, also I have never filed from sharp end of axe head toward blunt end like he shows being "normal way", I file from blunt end to sharp end, but also I move file along the curvature of edge at the same time, so after watching the video, I think my filing has some elements of that, except I use scythe sharpening stone, not a file.

File I have used with those cheap Chinese axes when there was more edge to fix and I did not feel like taking out the grinding stone. 

I remove burr by rubbing edge against clean pine wood. 

Many instructions tell to sharpen axe completely opposite direction than what I'm doing, but I find it is a lot easier to be consistent with angles when I do it my way, also there is no way to cut myself either.


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 16, 2016)

Too wet to do yard work this morning so, I think I'll root around the barn to find a file and practice on my ax.


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## ANewSawyer (Jun 16, 2016)

That video was pretty good. Notice he held the handle of the file in his left hand. Normally, you would move both hands together when draw filling. But when draw filling the file handle is held by the left hand. Why? Because the file teeth won't cut on the draw when the file handle is in the right hand. Single cut files have teeth that are cut into them in one direction only, so they can only remove metal in one direction. The push cut he demonstrates is the usual way to file but draw filing gives a finer edge, imo. If you try to file, with a single cut file, in a back and forth, sawing motion it will ruin the file in short order.


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 16, 2016)

ANewSawyer said:


> That video was pretty good. Notice he held the handle of the file in his left hand. Normally, you would move both hands together when draw filling. But when draw filling the file handle is held by the left hand. Why? Because the file teeth won't cut on the draw when the file handle is in the right hand. Single cut files have teeth that are cut into them in one direction only, so they can only remove metal in one direction. The push cut he demonstrates is the usual way to file but draw filing gives a finer edge, imo. If you try to file, with a single cut file, in a back and forth, sawing motion it will ruin the file in short order.


I thought the same thing too about the sawing motion of the file. Not sure how I knew, but I knew that was a bad idea. Something about going with the grain, not against it?
I found some things in the barn along with the ax, that need sharpening.
I've filed the pruning saw and the small clippers, working on the large clippers now. I discovered a makers mark, "Keen Kutters" on them, I'm going to go over them with a soapy brillo pad now to clean them up.
I'm saving the ax for last. 
These are the "before" photos.


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## Homeowner (Jun 16, 2016)

Rust in a saw is bit of challenge, I have softened rust with diesel, few days submerged (don't submerge wooden parts), then over night with vinegar. Rust in saw makes it stuck quite easily, but of course when used enough rust will go away. 

I like that axe head, hopefully it stays on handle, if not you might need to put new wedge to it, looks like you just need to do little sharpening on that one, 50 degrees (25 degrees angle for each side) could be all that it needs and that is quite to file.


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 16, 2016)

I've started a new discussion here:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/sharpening-tools-with-a-file-advice-please.298033/
since my questions are more about general sharpening and this thread is more about axes.
Here's the saw...


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## Ronaldo (Aug 15, 2016)

Speaking of Keen Kutter brand, anyone know anything bout them? Just picked this one up at Goodwill store. It has some weight compared to an old Plumb double I have.









In The Hills


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## ropensaddle (Aug 15, 2016)

Ronaldo said:


> Speaking of Keen Kutter brand, anyone know anything bout them? Just picked this one up at Goodwill store. It has some weight compared to an old Plumb double I have.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Keep them any with stamped USA are worth saving!


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