# 372xp Bar size ?



## nickg (Sep 19, 2008)

After all you guys help, i decided on a 372xp,, went to my husky/stihl dealer and did as you guys suggested. i held both stihl and husqvarna and decided that i felt more comfortable with the 372 (tad bit heavy).. they offer 18, 20 , 24 inch bar sizes, any recommendations on the size of the bar? My use is 10% falling ,90% bucking / cutting firewood. Thanks in advance..!


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## PA Plumber (Sep 19, 2008)

I do like a 24" bar for bucking. 
Easier on my back than a shorter bar.


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## Swamp Yankee (Sep 19, 2008)

20 should be plenty

Unless you're into big wood, then go 24. Remember it's also the cost of the chains and the time it takes to sharpen them. 20 inch is much handier for trimming out and though I'm not an expert will balance out better with that weight power head.

My 372 came with a 20 inch B&C, and though admittedly I don't have a lot of time on it, it feels right to me.

Take Care


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## Tree Sling'r (Sep 19, 2008)

I use a 32" with a 8tooth sprocket on mine with semi skip chain. Although, it is not your normal 372xpw either.:monkey:


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## woodchop (Sep 19, 2008)

PA Plumber said:


> I do like a 24" bar for bucking.
> Easier on my back than a shorter bar.



Same here


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## husky362 (Sep 19, 2008)

just a thought 

do some math if you can buy the saw with a longer bar for a few doller's more,,it may be cheaper to buy a smaller bar later on if you fill the need for it

my saw wear's a 20" most of the time but have bigger if needed ..........it really depends on what YOU CUT as how big of bar you need


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## Longwood (Sep 19, 2008)

I like a 20" bar on my 372xp but if your cutting larger trees you might want a longer bar also. 
If a 372xp was my "big" saw I would run a 20" bar with a full comp chain most of the time and a 28" bar with skip chain on big stuff.


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## pickwood (Sep 19, 2008)

The company that I work for has 4 or 5 372xps and we normally run 20"- a logger friend that I worked with recommended 20" bars and that advice was 30 years ago- like the others, keep a longer bar for the occasional big logs. Currently we are logging a small tract that has about 80 4' plus diameter trees and we are using 372xps with 20" bars.


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## Ghillie (Sep 19, 2008)

PA Plumber said:


> I do like a 24" bar for bucking.
> Easier on my back than a shorter bar.




:agree2: :agree2: :agree2: 

of course it depends on your height and build.


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## Nailsbeats (Sep 19, 2008)

20", the old loggers standard.


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## Scootermsp (Sep 19, 2008)

*18" and 24"*

My 372xp came with 24" bar. I bought an Oregon Powermatch 18" bar from Bailey's for $39.99. I run this 18" with pro chain and it's a freakin BEAST! I'm very happy with this set-up and find it to be much more productive than running the 24" bar. Also my 55 Rancher with 18" bar has same pitch and gauge , so I rotate 10 loops between the two saws, just makes things easier with compatible chains


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## CharlieG (Sep 20, 2008)

20 inch on my saw, but will get a larger spare bar and chain when the next order to Bailey's is submitted. Along with the round and flat files, etc.


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## Justsaws (Sep 20, 2008)

Like them with a3/8"x 20" the best. Good balance and nice power, nimble setup.


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## GASoline71 (Sep 20, 2008)

Nailsbeats said:


> 20", the old loggers standard.



Depends on where you're loggin'...

28" or 32" out here...

372XP will pull them both great with full skip chain in the PNW softwoods.

Gary


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## AUSSIE1 (Sep 20, 2008)

They balance best with a 20" bar.
Longer bars are not as agile but handy to have avail. if the need arises.

Al.


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 20, 2008)

24"


anyone runnin a 372 w/ 20" bar should have bought a smaller saw


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## scotclayshooter (Sep 20, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> 24"
> 
> 
> anyone runnin a 372 w/ 20" bar should have bought a smaller saw



I have an 18" on my 7900! seems hard to bog it lol


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## SawTroll (Sep 20, 2008)

Get a 20" for best balance/handling, and then a longer one in addition if you find out that you want/need one.


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## SawTroll (Sep 20, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> 24"
> 
> 
> anyone runnin a 372 w/ 20" bar should have bought a smaller saw



No, it is a perfect balanse......


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 20, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> No, it is a perfect balanse......



lol...if balance was the deciding factor, a 357 / 20 would be better


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## Former Saw Builder (Sep 20, 2008)

nickg said:


> After all you guys help, i decided on a 372xp,, went to my husky/stihl dealer and did as you guys suggested. i held both stihl and husqvarna and decided that i felt more comfortable with the 372 (tad bit heavy).. they offer 18, 20 , 24 inch bar sizes, any recommendations on the size of the bar? My use is 10% falling ,90% bucking / cutting firewood. Thanks in advance..!



24"


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## SawTroll (Sep 20, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> lol...if balance was the deciding factor, a 357 / 20 would be better



No, way too front heavy for anything but bucking........


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 20, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> No, way too front heavy for anything but bucking........



lol... i can believe anyone would fit a 20" to a 372



what size would you put on a 395??


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## SawTroll (Sep 20, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> lol... i can believe anyone would fit a 20" to a 372
> 
> 
> 
> what size would you put on a 395??



I really have no idea, as I never used one - but probably would start out with a 28", and go from there........

The only 395s my dealer have sold, was to our Engeneer battallion, for ice cutting - no wood that requires one here.......


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## kurtty (Sep 20, 2008)

i live in saskatchewan and we dont have very many big trees here due to the cold cimate so i rarely have to cut a tree bigger than 20"
so all my saws wear a 20" bar. if you live in the PNW then go for a 28" but 20" sure seems to be a comfortable lenght for me. i had an 18" on one of my saws for a while and it was a little bit too small for bucking as sometimes i would lose the bar in the wood.


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 21, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> I really have no idea, as I never used one - but probably would start out with a 28", and go from there........
> 
> The only 395s my dealer have sold, was to our Engeneer battallion, for ice cutting - no wood that requires one here.......



troll buddy... i guess my wood is bigger!


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## MuleyJ (Sep 21, 2008)

*How bigga wood?*

Nobody ask yet or did I just miss it? If you are cutting 20" and smaller then a 20" bar should be sufficient, and then you could set up a 28" full skip for the occasional big one. If you cut a lot of 20-24" wood then set it up with a 24", that saw will pull any of those bars well especially if you do a small muff mod.


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## Ghillie (Sep 21, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> lol... i can believe anyone would fit a 20" to a 372
> 
> 
> 
> what size would you put on a 395??



24" on my "limbing" 371 and 36" on the 394.

I guess I get big wood too!!


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## danrclem (Sep 21, 2008)

I've got a 20" on my 372 but I plan on buying a 24" for the bigger stuff. The 20" will stay on it most of the time.


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## Banshee (Sep 21, 2008)

I like the balance of a 24 on mine.


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## Hugenpoet (Sep 21, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> Get a 20" for best balance/handling, and then a longer one in addition if you find out that you want/need one.



+1 Here in New England, a 20" is, IMHO, perfect for the typical size of our hardwood. Run 20" on my 372XP, the 2171 and 6401-18" on my MS361. Makes it easy to stock a lot of extra chains.


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## Longwood (Sep 21, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> lol... i can believe anyone would fit a 20" to a 372
> 
> 
> 
> what size would you put on a 395??



20" stays on 372 all the time. Fast cutting, no waiting. 

I run a 24", 28" or 36" on my 395 depending on what size tree I'm cutting.

I love running the 395 with a 24" bar, amazingly fast cutting, even in Oak.
It'll make you grin so wide you'll have stretch marks.


:greenchainsaw:


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## testlight (Sep 21, 2008)

Unless you are very short, get the 24 or bigger. 
Try to touch the ground with the tip of the bar, with a 20 and a 24. Most find that longer bars make working wood on the ground a lot easier. Also bar size has a lot to do with the kind and size of trees you are going to be dealing with. However even if your sawing very hard wood chances are the 20" is going to be holding the saw back.
I have a 28" for my 575 (same class of saw).


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## SawTroll (Sep 21, 2008)

danrclem said:


> I've got a 20" on my 372 but I plan on buying a 24" for the bigger stuff. The 20" will stay on it most of the time.


Right, I have a 20, 24 and a 16", and the 20" is on most of the time.

The 16" is a leftover from another project, and not bought for the 372 though........


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## rsscully (Sep 21, 2008)

Already have an 18" on my 51 so 20" didn't make sense on the 372, went with 24". Faster to switch saws then bars. 
:greenchainsaw:


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## lazermule (Sep 21, 2008)

I have a 20" on my 372xp and when cutting a 20" semi dry oak today with a new pro chain that is about all that it wanted. It goes through soft wood (poplar) like butter though, but up here you won't find a poplar over 20" diameter.

For working with wood on the ground and bucking, I do kind of think the 24" would be better though.

I will probably do a muffler mod on mine in time soon as it's broke in good.


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## bowtechmadman (Sep 21, 2008)

Mine's wearing a 18" bar...overkill I suppose so, I also have a 20" for my 066.


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 22, 2008)

Ghillie said:


> 24" on my "limbing" 371 and 36" on the 394.
> 
> I guess I get big wood too!!



well mr hogan, if you say you've got big wood i'd hate to doubt ya


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## AUSSIE1 (Sep 22, 2008)

Fairdinkum, balance is different to needing bar size to match log size.
I've a 28" if needed but a 20" balances best with the weight/handle relationship of a 371/372XP.
24" for my 385XP, 28" for my 395XP.

Sorry Steve, I think you just don't get it.

Al.


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 22, 2008)

AUSSIE1 said:


> Fairdinkum, balance is different to needing bar size to match log size.
> I've a 28" if needed but a 20" balances best with the weight/handle relationship of a 371/372XP.
> 24" for my 385XP, 28" for my 395XP.
> 
> ...



lol... what difference does balance make when your saw spends all day in a log? if I had to walk 20m between every cut, id probably feel different......


stk


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## AUSSIE1 (Sep 22, 2008)

Because Steve it doesn't spend all day in a log!

Al.


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## SawTroll (Sep 22, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> lol... what difference does balance make when your saw spends all day in a log? if I had to walk 20m between every cut, id probably feel different......
> 
> 
> stk



That is the core of the question at hand - balance (and weight) matters a lot for some applications/situations, and to a much lesser degree (if at all) for other applications/situations.

Because of that, the issue is almost impossible to discuss in a meaningful way.... ....and without......oke: :sword:


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## peter399 (Sep 22, 2008)

Another vote for the 20". Faster cutting, less weight, quicker sharpening, less expensive and better balance. 
If you are bucking alot of big wood, step up to 24". But otherwise, 20 is the way to go.


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 22, 2008)

AUSSIE1 said:


> Because Steve it doesn't spend all day in a log!
> 
> Al.



what else are you doing with it? poulans come with a 20" bar


stk


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## Marc (Sep 22, 2008)

I run a 24" bar on mine with a full comp chain. I haven't done a tremendous amount of cutting with it, but so far I like it.

I'm kinda cheap in some ways, and I didn't really want to spend the $$ on two size bars and chains, so I just went with what I thought it could run well buried in New England hardwoods.

So far the hardest I've cut is well cured 36" maple, and it has done very well.

Funny thing about cutting firewood in New England, if you're working in the woods, especially a less than well maintained woodlot, the trees will be tall and relatively skinny, BUT-

I do most of my cutting along fencelines, so I cut a lot of leaners, and a lot of em had the chance to get nice and fat.

I'm 6 foot and 165 lbs, and I also like not having to bend over quite as much. 24" doesn't really feel nose heavy to me... but I'm not very sensitive to that kind of thing.

Here's the saw in question:


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## 2000ssm6 (Sep 22, 2008)

24-25" would be the perfect size for a 372/2171, as it would with any 70cc saw.


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 22, 2008)

2000ssm6 said:


> 24-25" would be the perfect size for a 372/2171, as it would with any 70cc saw.


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## SawTroll (Sep 22, 2008)

2000ssm6 said:


> 24-25" would be the perfect size for a 372/2171, as it would with any 70cc saw.



For what use is it perfect? :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


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## danrclem (Sep 22, 2008)

Perfect is in the hands of the beholder.


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## 2000ssm6 (Sep 22, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> For what use is it perfect? :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:



For real men who cut real trees, with a Stihl 440 or 460, the better choices.


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## bowtechmadman (Sep 22, 2008)

Guess I'm good w/ not being a real man, and really like the fact that the 18" bar doesn't have to spend very long in the cut. If you like the speed of a 70cc saw wearing 24" bar....you should try an 18" bar, now she's really got some giddyup.
I do have a 20/28 and 36" bar for the 066...do I get some manhood back w/ that?


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## 2000ssm6 (Sep 22, 2008)

That 18" would be on the 346 or 2159 if it were mine, I keep a 16" on the 026, 20" on the 361 and 25"+ on the 440s-460s......

I never liked packing around a heavy powerhead with a small bar when I can have a lighter saw with that smaller bar. I do give ya points for the 28" 066, but not the 20", way to small for 90cc's.


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## Marc (Sep 22, 2008)

bowtechmadman said:


> Guess I'm good w/ not being a real man, and really like the fact that the 18" bar doesn't have to spend very long in the cut. If you like the speed of a 70cc saw wearing 24" bar....you should try an 18" bar, now she's really got some giddyup.
> I do have a 20/28 and 36" bar for the 066...do I get some manhood back w/ that?



I'm curious, now... I understand using a shorter bar because of the weight, but the 372 is certainly enough power to run a 24" b/c...

So if I'm cutting an 18" diameter log with my 24" b/c and you are with your 18" b/c, the only additional resistance my saw has to overcome is the extra friction of the longer bar and chain, which in my estimation, is very minimal compared to the power output of the saw at WOT.

The only other thing it would change is there's more mass to accelerate with the 24" chain so it might take a little longer to get to WOT, but how much more could the 24" chain weigh... 30% at most? 30% of a chain that probably weighs less than a pound? Is that noticeable at all either?

Not trying to sound like an ass... just thinking out loud.


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## HolmenTree (Sep 22, 2008)

I am running a 22" Windsor guide bar [part # SVST 22 HU58] from Bailey's on my 372 ,I think this is the perfect length for this saw in small to medium timber doing firewood or tree service removal work.


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## SawTroll (Sep 22, 2008)

A longer bar than needed makes it "easier" to hit the dirt when cutting on the ground as well.......


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## SWE#Kipp (Sep 22, 2008)

Tree Sling'r said:


> I use a 32" with a 8tooth sprocket on mine with semi skip chain. Although, it is not your normal 372xpw either.:monkey:



Sling'r do you have a video of that 372 
Plz ...


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## scotclayshooter (Sep 22, 2008)

Marc said:


> I'm curious, now... I understand using a shorter bar because of the weight, but the 372 is certainly enough power to run a 24" b/c...
> 
> So if I'm cutting an 18" diameter log with my 24" b/c and you are with your 18" b/c, the only additional resistance my saw has to overcome is the extra friction of the longer bar and chain, which in my estimation, is very minimal compared to the power output of the saw at WOT.
> 
> ...



If you look at what they do to race chain 






And that seems fairly mild! all to lose weight

also theres less cutters to sharpen the bar and chains are cheaper


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## Haywire Haywood (Sep 22, 2008)

I had an 18 and a 28 for mine, but have since modded the 28 to fit the 660 that I expect to see sometime between Thanksgiving and Christmas. Still need to re-drill the oiler hole as required. I'll have to wait till the saw arrives to do that.

I run an 8 pin rim with the 18.

Ian


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## funky sawman (Sep 22, 2008)

The best bar I found for the 372 that is balanced is the oregon pro lite 28"


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## mile9socounty (Sep 22, 2008)

My best friend that I fall/fell for on the weekends runs a 36" on his 372XP. Un-modded as well. It cuts just fine for him. But every saw has its limits.


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 22, 2008)

2000ssm6 said:


> That 18" would be on the 346 or 2159 if it were mine, I keep a 16" on the 026, 20" on the 361 and 25"+ on the 440s-460s......
> 
> I never liked packing around a heavy powerhead with a small bar when I can have a lighter saw with that smaller bar. I do give ya points for the 28" 066, but not the 20", way to small for 90cc's.



it feels to wrong to agree with ya


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## Marc (Sep 22, 2008)

scotclayshooter said:


> If you look at what they do to race chain
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Well, racing is a bit different story. They're dealing with fractions of a second making or breaking a run, so ounces count.

Fractions of a second, added up over a day of cutting firewood will not make a big difference in the grand scheme of things.

I have friends that track their cars that will take out trim from the interior to save a few pounds on a several thousand pound car. They don't do that with their street car because it doesn't really matter then.


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## scotclayshooter (Sep 22, 2008)

Marc said:


> Well, racing is a bit different story. They're dealing with fractions of a second making or breaking a run, so ounces count.
> 
> Fractions of a second, added up over a day of cutting firewood will not make a big difference in the grand scheme of things.
> 
> I have friends that track their cars that will take out trim from the interior to save a few pounds on a several thousand pound car. They don't do that with their street car because it doesn't really matter then.



I was just using race chain as an example of a lighter chain working better!


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## Marc (Sep 22, 2008)

scotclayshooter said:


> I was just using race chain as an example of a lighter chain working better!



I understand, I just want to clarify my point that, for a guy out cutting firewood all day, the difference in time it takes to accelerate an 18" chain and a 24" chain is in all probability, not going to be noticeable, when all is accounted for.


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## 2000ssm6 (Sep 22, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> it feels to wrong to agree with ya



Sad but true, LOL. 

I never understood short bars with big saws, unless racing...


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 22, 2008)

2000ssm6 said:


> Sad but true, LOL.
> 
> I never understood short bars with big saws, unless racing...


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## AUSSIE1 (Sep 23, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> what else are you doing with it? poulans come with a 20" bar
> 
> 
> stk



Lol, don't give two hoots for a Poulan Steve!
By your responses you still don't get it.
Even if the 372 had two more horspower @ the same weight, that does not mean it should have a larger bar to "balance"
Go back and have a good look through this post and the pro's use 20".
Sure, there are pro's that use say a 32", but that's because they need light weight/big cut, not balance being the main criteria.

Al.


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## AUSSIE1 (Sep 23, 2008)

2000ssm6 said:


> For real men who cut real trees, with a Stihl 440 or 460, the better choices.



Maybe a 460 would balance better with a 24" because they are heavier than a 372.

Al.


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## comp1911 (Sep 23, 2008)

For actual use 20"





For looking pretty. 24"


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 23, 2008)

AUSSIE1 said:


> Lol, don't give two hoots for a Poulan Steve!
> By your responses you still don't get it.
> Even if the 372 had two more horspower @ the same weight, that does not mean it should have a larger bar to "balance"
> Go back and have a good look through this post and the pro's use 20".
> ...



hmmm... pros. well lets see. female loggers here train on 372 22". us guys step up to 24", on either 372 575 390. Stihl gangs running 660 24". If anyone turned up with a 20" bar, it would be run by a silverculturist on a 357, or a homeowner whos not quite strong / brave enough for a normal size bar and has too much money to afford such a powerhead.

Do they even make 20" bars with a D009 mount? j/k


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## Grande Dog (Sep 23, 2008)

If you're running a 372 with a 24" bar or less, and you're not using a 8 tooth rim, you're leaving a few nuts in the sack.


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## scotclayshooter (Sep 23, 2008)

Marc said:


> I understand, I just want to clarify my point that, for a guy out cutting firewood all day, the difference in time it takes to accelerate an 18" chain and a 24" chain is in all probability, not going to be noticeable, when all is accounted for.



Fair enough but its still a cheaper bar and chain and less cutters to sharpen 

But even i think this is takin the p#ss my mates 327XP running a 15"bar with 325


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## pgg (Sep 23, 2008)

OK,for thinning in the forestry, that's 15"-18" diameter pines, for a 440 or 372, an 18" - 20" bar is what you need. Thinning forests you cover a lot of ground. Fact is, on a 70cc the 18" - 20" setup is lighter, HEAPS more maneuverable/agile, FAR better balanced with MORE power/torque and cutting speed, and just all-round a superior setup. For thinning, anything over 20" on a 70cc around here is pretty much just a case of bravado and posturing! What can I say?? On the other hand, for logging the final crop, grab an 066 and use any bar length you want..


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## SawTroll (Sep 23, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> .... Do they even make 20" bars with a D009 mount? j/k



Yes, and all the way down to 15" at least - not sure about 13"...........


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 23, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> Yes, and all the way down to 15" at least - not sure about 13"...........



lol... ive got a 138RNDD009 out back.......i believe oregon still make them


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## danrclem (Sep 23, 2008)

Grande Dog said:


> If you're running a 372 with a 24" bar or less, and you're not using a 8 tooth rim, you're leaving a few nuts in the sack.



Would that apply with a stock saw in hardwood?


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## SawTroll (Sep 23, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> lol... ive got a 138RNDD009 out back.......i believe oregon still make them



Just tried the selector guide - at least the 138SLHD009 still is there......


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## Haywire Haywood (Sep 23, 2008)

danrclem said:


> Would that apply with a stock saw in hardwood?



IMO, depends on your cutting style and what you have your rakers set at. If you're heavy handed and have your rakers lowered, then 7 pin, if you just let the saw ride in the kerf, let it eat at it's own pace and have high rakers then 8. You just have to adjust the saw to your style and what you're cutting.

Another IMO... a lot of this "what size bar" discussion revolves around what you're cutting and what size. If you're out west and are in 25"+ softwoods, then a 20" bar doesn't make much sense. If you're back east and live in 18" Oak, then a 20" bar makes perfect sense.

a 60cc saw with a 20" bar gets the job done. A 70-80ccc saw with a 20" bar ups the fun factor significantly.

Ian


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## Grande Dog (Sep 23, 2008)

I fall into the second half of Ian's description. My dogs don't bite at the wood unless I'm falling. For me, if you're having to use the dogs while your bucking, it's time to sharpen or change chains.


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## danrclem (Sep 23, 2008)

Haywire Haywood said:


> A 70-80ccc saw with a 20" bar ups the fun factor significantly.
> 
> Ian



I found that out today in some 33-34" oak. The 372 chewed it up and spit it out.

Ian, thanks for the info that you sent me earlier today.


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## AUSSIE1 (Sep 24, 2008)

comp1911 said:


> For actual use 20"
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yep, looks better with bigger.

Al.


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 24, 2008)

AUSSIE1 said:


> Yep, looks better with bigger.
> 
> Al.


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## AUSSIE1 (Sep 24, 2008)

pgg said:


> OK,for thinning in the forestry, that's 15"-18" diameter pines, for a 440 or 372, an 18" - 20" bar is what you need. Thinning forests you cover a lot of ground. Fact is, on a 70cc the 18" - 20" setup is lighter, HEAPS more maneuverable/agile, FAR better balanced with MORE power/torque and cutting speed, and just all-round a superior setup. For thinning, anything over 20" on a 70cc around here is pretty much just a case of bravado and posturing! What can I say?? On the other hand, for logging the final crop, grab an 066 and use any bar length you want..



Onya PGG, well said, and correct to a "T".

Al.


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## AUSSIE1 (Sep 24, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


>



Hey Steve I ran a 24" on the 371XP for 9 years and a 20" for the last.
Heck took 9 to figure it out.

Al.


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 24, 2008)

a. 372 20" = im soft
b. 372 20" = im scared
c. 372 20" = i wants bigger trees but cant find them so i shoulda got a 357
d. 372 20" = i wants a 372 so i looks like a logger, but i is not a logger
e. 372 20" = i shoulda bought a 357 now that those gosh darn fuel prices are so high
f. 372 20" = i is too tight for a 24" bar.
g. 372 20" = I is only doing firewood and I is havin all the time in the world to make 2 cuts per round
h. 372 20" = my dealer told me this was what i needed. but he is a good dealer.
i. 372 20" = trees dont grow that big here anyway, but I really needed all that power to cut down these vines to keep the local tooth pic factory in business
j. I think that balance is when the saw is in a cut and the motor is so heavy in comparison that the bar is always wanting to sit up and say "hi"
k. the saw is "home use only." I had a guy come and cut down a tree for me, he was using a 372.

*Pick one.*


Nah just kidding ya'll. It may be different elsewhere, but I can tell ya right now that in NZ 80% of 372's in nz are running 22" or 24"

Not taking the pi$$ PGG, im sure your 20" works great


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 24, 2008)

AUSSIE1 said:


> Hey Steve I ran a 24" on the 371XP for 9 years and a 20" for the last.
> Heck took 9 to figure it out.
> 
> Al.



ran out of wood? lol... you are one of the few downunder. you should race that puppy with a 20" on it


----------



## MCW (Sep 24, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> a. 372 20" = im soft
> b. 372 20" = im scared
> c. 372 20" = i wants bigger trees but cant find them so i shoulda got a 357
> d. 372 20" = i wants a 372 so i looks like a logger, but i is not a logger
> ...



Heh heh. Thats funny stuff. Maybe just New Zealanders and Aussies would understand it...
Sadly though its possibly based on fact 
All the 372's I've seen have had 24" bars.


----------



## AUSSIE1 (Sep 24, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> ran out of wood? lol... you are one of the few downunder. you should race that puppy with a 20" on it



Nope and yep!

Al.


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## SawTroll (Sep 24, 2008)

MCW said:


> Heh heh. Thats funny stuff. Maybe just New Zealanders and Aussies would understand it...
> Sadly though its possibly based on fact
> All the 372's I've seen have had 24" bars.



Most of the few I have seen here (Norway and Sweden) has an 18" bar on them...........

......but then the MS660 is sold with a 15" bar here.....:monkey: :monkey:


----------



## stevethekiwi (Sep 24, 2008)

MCW said:


> Heh heh. Thats funny stuff. Maybe just New Zealanders and Aussies would understand it...
> Sadly though its possibly based on fact
> All the 372's I've seen have had 24" bars.



lol nice avatar!


----------



## stevethekiwi (Sep 24, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> Most of the few I have seen here (Norway and Sweden) has an 18" bar on them...........
> 
> ......but then the MS660 is sold with a 15" bar here.....:monkey: :monkey:



Hi Niko!!!


660 with a 15"??? now that insane.....

You guys must have some keen fellers


----------



## Marc (Sep 24, 2008)

Haywood touched on what I wanted to say, but I'll repeat it anyway, for ####es and giggles...

It really does depend a lot on the wood you cut. Yes a smaller bar is cheaper and the chain has fewer cutters to sharpen, but that doesn't do me any good when I have a 2 foot dia maple to buck. I'm one to let the saw "ride the kerf" and I generally only use the dogs for felling, and the saw does not hesitate (bone stock) in 24" of wood.

So, since I'm too cheap to keep two sizes of bars and four chains on hand, I go with the bigger bar. Yes the saw would be lighter with a shorter bar for limbing, but it is not worth the extra money to me.

Another good reason for the longer bar is I'm of the opinion that when felling, it's always better if the bar is at leas as big as the tree. It's safer and easier, especially for those of us that don't fell everyday (or for the whole of the warm weather months, for that matter).


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## SawTroll (Sep 24, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> Hi Niko!!!
> 
> 
> 660 with a 15"??? now that insane.....
> ...



Yes it is, and you can't buy it pho......  :rockn: :biggrinbounce2:


----------



## MCW (Sep 24, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> lol nice avatar!



South Park cracks me up. Didn't have any fancy chainsaw or road sign photos so that'll have to do...


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## SawTroll (Sep 24, 2008)

MCW said:


> .....
> Sadly though its possibly based on fact
> All the 372's I've seen have had 24" bars.




Maybe because people lack imagination and own thoughts, and just buy what the dealers recommend - and the saws *do* look good with a 24" on...... 

.....something like the 13/14" bars almost everyone have on the smaller saws (about 50cc and less) here....

Btw, Welcome to the AS!


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## MCW (Sep 24, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> Maybe because people lack imagination and own thoughts, and just buy what the dealers recommend - and the saws *do* look good with a 24" on......
> 
> Btw, Welcome to the AS!



Actually all the 372's I've seen in the flesh have been on dealer's shelves with 24" bars and you're right, they look good 

Good forum too, enjoying all the reading and info


----------



## matty f (Sep 24, 2008)

found a 24" perfect for the 372 for felling and bucking got an 18" if i wanna get speedy when logging with it though!


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## Haywire Haywood (Sep 24, 2008)

Steve, have you ever run a 372 with a shorter bar and a bigger sprocket? Lots o fun.

Ian


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## SawTroll (Sep 24, 2008)

Haywire Haywood said:


> Steve, have you ever run a 372 with a shorter bar and a bigger sprocket? Lots o fun.
> 
> Ian




I actually wondered about the same.......


----------



## superfire (Sep 24, 2008)

*bar--------------->*

24" or go cryin to yur moma when your backi iz screamin in agonyyyyyyyy. les bending and les work when limin


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## MR4WD (Sep 24, 2008)

anything more than 20" is ludicrous! http://cgi.ebay.com/Husqvarna-3120x...39:1|66:2|65:12|240:1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

FYI I run a 24 on my 372. 20" on my 359 and 28+ on my 385.


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 24, 2008)

Haywire Haywood said:


> Steve, have you ever run a 372 with a shorter bar and a bigger sprocket? Lots o fun.
> 
> Ian



ive put the 138RNDD009 on the 3120 before... *that's* fun.


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 24, 2008)

MR4WD said:


> anything more than 20" is ludicrous! http://cgi.ebay.com/Husqvarna-3120x...39:1|66:2|65:12|240:1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
> 
> FYI I run a 24 on my 372. 20" on my 359 and 28+ on my 385.



lol... id love to find a saw with "too much power"


----------



## SawTroll (Sep 24, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> ive put the 138RNDD009 on the 3120 before... *that's* fun.




With what rim????


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 24, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> With what rim????



just stock 3/8 7 pin


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## SawTroll (Sep 24, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> just stock 3/8 7 pin



:jawdrop: Something is amiss here, 7-pin is OK with a 24 on a 372xp - but..........


----------



## stevethekiwi (Sep 24, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> :jawdrop: Something is amiss here, 7-pin is OK with a 24 on a 372xp - but..........



was only mucking around at the end of the day... not really worried about "ideal" setups if im fitting a 13" to a 3120!!!

if i had an 11 pin handy i would have tried that


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Sep 24, 2008)

OT, but I noticed in your sig that if you were a dinosaur etc etc... why exactly do you drink a lot of piss? :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: 

LOL
Ian


----------



## stevethekiwi (Sep 24, 2008)

Haywire Haywood said:


> OT, but I noticed in your sig that if you were a dinosaur etc etc... why exactly do you drink a lot of piss? :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> LOL
> Ian



pi$$ is another name for beer. well, over here it is anyway. i should probably change that line.......


----------



## SawTroll (Sep 24, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> pi$$ is another name for beer. well, over here it is anyway. i should probably change that line.......



 - it doen't taste like pizz here......


----------



## stevethekiwi (Sep 24, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> - it doen't taste like pizz here......





lol... yeah, im gunna change that line


----------



## 2000ssm6 (Sep 24, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> lol... yeah, im gunna change that line



Naw, just leave it. Drinking pizz seems to fit you well.<a href="http://www.clipartof.com"><img src="http://www.clipartof.com/images/emoticons/xsmall2/1970_two_smileys_drinking_beer_together.gif" alt="Free Smileys & Emoticons at Clipart of.com" border="0"></a>


----------



## stevethekiwi (Sep 24, 2008)

2000ssm6 said:


> Naw, just leave it. Drinking pizz seems to fit you well.<a href="http://www.clipartof.com"><img src="http://www.clipartof.com/images/emoticons/xsmall2/1970_two_smileys_drinking_beer_together.gif" alt="Free Smileys & Emoticons at Clipart of.com" border="0"></a>



lol... got u all excited has it?


----------



## 2000ssm6 (Sep 24, 2008)

Naw, no quite. If I were a dinosaur, it would be a lickalotofpus.

btw, this is me and some Coors Light...<a href="http://www.clipartof.com"><img src="http://www.clipartof.com/images/emoticons/xsmall2/1964_downing_wine.gif" alt="Free Smileys & Emoticons at Clipart of.com" border="0"></a>


----------



## stevethekiwi (Sep 24, 2008)

2000ssm6 said:


> Naw, no quite. If I were a dinosaur, it would be a lickalotofpus.
> 
> btw, this is me and some Coors Light...<a href="http://www.clipartof.com"><img src="http://www.clipartof.com/images/emoticons/xsmall2/1964_downing_wine.gif" alt="Free Smileys & Emoticons at Clipart of.com" border="0"></a>



light? really?


i thought you were a dude?


----------



## SawTroll (Sep 24, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> light? really?
> 
> 
> i thought you were a dude?



Never mind - he is just a fanatic with no real clue, but a big Stihl heart......


----------



## 2000ssm6 (Sep 24, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> light? really?
> 
> 
> i thought you were a dude?



Trying to watch my weight, LOL. Trying downing 12 of 'em, that will make you feel real light. Those or some Jagermeister and Redbull.....


----------



## stevethekiwi (Sep 24, 2008)

2000ssm6 said:


> Trying to watch my weight, LOL. Trying downing 12 of 'em, that will make you feel real light. Those or some Jagermeister and Redbull.....



lol... so i need to teach you 2 things next time i see you.


1. how to use a chainsaw (the right chainsaw)
2. how to drink


preferably in that order. safety first you know!


----------



## 2000ssm6 (Sep 24, 2008)

Yep, I can show you a real man's saw and mix ya a few Jager bombs. You won't pick up the husky until you are drunk and have lost all good sense.


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 24, 2008)

2000ssm6 said:


> Yep, I can show you a real man's saw and mix ya a few Jager bombs. You won't pick up the husky until you are drunk and have lost all good sense.



if i can remember it, i wasnt drunk

if i cant remember it, it never happened


----------



## HolmenTree (Sep 24, 2008)

Grande Dog said:


> If you're running a 372 with a 24" bar or less, and you're not using a 8 tooth rim, you're leaving a few nuts in the sack.



With the 372s high top end speed a 7 tooth rim is perfect for it no matter what length bar you got on it. My 372 came from the factory with a 7 pin. Thats what this saw is designed for. Lets say its just the right gear ratio.


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## Cameljoe73 (Sep 25, 2008)

Get a 20". If you ever move to the PNW, then you should get the right bar. Be carefull, Its hard to move with a bad back.


----------



## Cameljoe73 (Sep 25, 2008)

> Guess I'm good w/ not being a real man, and really like the fact that the 18" bar doesn't have to spend very long in the cut. If you like the speed of a 70cc saw wearing 24" bar....you should try an 18" bar, now she's really got some giddyup.



Your not the first person to tell me how much faster your saw is because you put a shorter bar on it. I have run a 20", 28", and 36" on my 064, and I can not tell any difference in the cut. My chain mph is virtually the same with all 3 bars. The test log I had, before I cut about 100 pies off of it, (I need a new log beside the shop, lol) was 18" on the small end, and 20" at the other. 

So I guess my question is, what the :censored: are you, and other people talking about?

AM I supposed to cut bigger wood with the bigger bar so I can make a fair comparison?


----------



## stevethekiwi (Sep 25, 2008)

Cameljoe73 said:


> AM I supposed to cut bigger wood with the bigger bar so I can make a fair comparison?



I think the question should be, if you are cutting small wood, and weight is an issue, why did you buy a big saw?

20" on a 372 is like putting lada wheels on a mustang. yeah, its lighter, itl spin faster, but it aint travelling any quicker and you'll look like a twit.


----------



## pgg (Sep 25, 2008)

AUSSIE1 said:


> Yep, looks better with bigger.
> 
> Al.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v224/comp1911/chainsaw/2171/IMG_2049.jpg


yep, this one a 28" on a 65cc, can be useful sometimes, but I don't like getting the bar dirty and prefer to keep it pretty..


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 25, 2008)

pgg said:


> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v224/comp1911/chainsaw/2171/IMG_2049.jpg
> 
> 
> yep, this one a 28" on a 65cc, can be useful sometimes, but I don't like getting the bar dirty and prefer to keep it pretty..



now theres a peice of art


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## AUSSIE1 (Sep 25, 2008)

2000ssm6 said:


> Naw, just leave it. Drinking pizz seems to fit you well.<a href="http://www.clipartof.com"><img src="http://www.clipartof.com/images/emoticons/xsmall2/1970_two_smileys_drinking_beer_together.gif" alt="Free Smileys & Emoticons at Clipart of.com" border="0"></a>



 

Al.


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## AUSSIE1 (Sep 25, 2008)

2000ssm6 said:


> Naw, no quite. If I were a dinosaur, it would be a lickalotofpus.
> 
> btw, this is me and some Coors Light...<a href="http://www.clipartof.com"><img src="http://www.clipartof.com/images/emoticons/xsmall2/1964_downing_wine.gif" alt="Free Smileys & Emoticons at Clipart of.com" border="0"></a>



  

Al.


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## Justsaws (Sep 25, 2008)

Seems to be a lot of "pizz" drinking going on tonight or for that matter any night.

Craftman's saw motto is sell the saw with the longest bar possible and people will think it is powerful and manly, seems to be a lot of that going on too.

Proper saw use would be to fit the bar to the trees and the users capability.

If the novice user is only 5'-8" a 24" bar in typical small timber is a trencher. The average person running a 50-70cc saw is not cutting for a living and should not have to worry about the long term effects of a days worth of slight bending per year. 

They should probably be more worried about liver damage.


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## AUSSIE1 (Sep 25, 2008)

20" on a 372 is like putting lada wheels on a mustang. yeah, its lighter, itl spin faster, but it aint travelling any quicker and you'll look like a twit.[/QUOTE]

So your worried about what others think?

You don't need a big bar if ya only got a little one Steve!

Al.


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## AUSSIE1 (Sep 25, 2008)

pgg said:


> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v224/comp1911/chainsaw/2171/IMG_2049.jpg
> 
> 
> yep, this one a 28" on a 65cc, can be useful sometimes, but I don't like getting the bar dirty and prefer to keep it pretty..



Yeah does look good.

Al.


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## stevethekiwi (Sep 25, 2008)

AUSSIE1 said:


> 20" on a 372 is like putting lada wheels on a mustang. yeah, its lighter, itl spin faster, but it aint travelling any quicker and you'll look like a twit.



So your worried about what others think?

You don't need a big bar if ya only got a little one Steve!

Al.[/QUOTE]

hmmm... Al my young padowin learner. you are forgetting the first rule of CAD.

Rule #1 You need to look cool.


Looking cool will get you: more pu$$y, respect from *any* 1/2 wit dealer, extra jobs (money) from rich people, and more forgiveness from your wife.

remember mate, its all about looking cool.

If I had a little one, then id be claiming that my balance was perfect and i didnt need a bigger one in the first place


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Sep 25, 2008)

Cameljoe73 said:


> So I guess my question is, what the :censored: are you, and other people talking about?



Shorter bar, bigger rim, more chain speed = faster in the cut IF you have enough motor to run the bigger rim. 

THAT'S what the :censored: we are talking about. Just changing bar lengths won't get you nuttin but a shorter bar length. Take your 064 with a 9 pin rim and an 18 inch bar and watch the chips fly !

Ian


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## SawTroll (Sep 25, 2008)

AUSSIE1 said:


> 20" on a 372 is like putting lada wheels on a mustang. yeah, its lighter, itl spin faster, but it aint travelling any quicker and you'll look like a twit.




Not if you put an 8-pin rim on it.......:greenchainsaw:


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## Haywire Haywood (Sep 25, 2008)

For your amusement... a standard 7 pin 3/8 rim and a 9 pin 3/8 rim. I usually run an 8 pin on my saw.


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## MCW (Sep 26, 2008)

stevethekiwi said:


> hmmm... Al my young padowin learner. you are forgetting the first rule of CAD.
> 
> Rule #1 You need to look cool.
> 
> ...



But once you have;

a) Respect
b) Pu$$y
c) extra jobs/money
and the hardest to achieve
d) Forgiveness from your wife,

...by all means whack a 16" on your 372.

Had a win today. Dropped in the at local Husky dealer (top guy) to get a price on a 32" bar for my yet to arrive 7900. Oregon only make a 30" or 36" so chose a 30". He goes out the back and comes out with a once used 30" bar to suit (he chopped down one gum tree with it - still has all the paint and writing) and throws in 2 Oregon full chisel chains that are near new and never sharpened and I get the lot for AUD$99 (USD$82). Went in for just a price, come out with a bar and 2 chains for a bargain. He also knocked a couple of links out of each chain too so it'd fit the Dolmar.
He was running it on a Husky 570 I think - I reckon it probably struggled a tad.


----------



## AUSSIE1 (Sep 26, 2008)

Good score there MCW.
What are you cutting with this bar?

Al.


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## MCW (Sep 26, 2008)

Hi fellow Aussie 
Have a got a fair few old dead gums planted in the 60's on my fiancee's parents farm (30-44" trunks - Longicorn borers are in the process of or have already killed them) and also some still living pines that need chopping down (dropping limbs and near some grain silos). Have already knocked a fair few over with my 16" McCulloch but its bloody hard work and a fair way out of its depth, hence I ordered a Dolmar PS-7900. I've also got a mate in Huonville, Tasmania who has 140 acres and some huge pines (50-60") in a creek line that he wants chopped down - I'll do that on my next holiday. He got a local guy from a timber mill to come and chop a couple of big pines down where he built his house and charged him $500 so I said I'd knock the rest over for nothing. If I didn't get such a good deal I might have only bought a 28" or something but at that price I couldn't leave it there 
Actually posted another thread (link below) last night regarding the bar/chains and found it is actually a 32" Power Match Plus bar so even a better deal than I thought even though the dealer shortened the chains too much (he thought it was a 30" bar and will fix them for nothing as you'd expect).
Although the Oregon manual said they only make 30" and 36" the bar selector on their website lists a heap of different sizes available.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=76941


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## SawTroll (Sep 26, 2008)

MCW said:


> But once you have;
> 
> a) Respect
> b) Pu$$y
> ...




haven't done it so far, but it is there - but where to get a 9-pin rim....


----------



## AUSSIE1 (Sep 27, 2008)

All sounds good MCW, got a name that goes with that user?
Wouldn't mind fangin around Tassie in the new year or the next on the BM for a coupla weeks.
Where you located?
Those dolmars sound the goods.

Al.


----------



## SawTroll (Sep 27, 2008)

MCW said:


> But once you have;
> 
> a) Respect
> b) Pu$$y
> ...



Looks like it was a 32" afterall - and they sure make it!


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Sep 27, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> haven't done it so far, but it is there - but where to get a 9-pin rim....



Dean at Washingtonprosaws gave me the one I have when I was out at the PNW GTG. I used to have the address for the web site that sold them but I can't seem to find it now. I think Dean said he couldn't use it because of the exposed rivet tails on the one side.

Ian


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Sep 27, 2008)

Also, going as big as 9 poses some problems to overcome. You will probably have to trim the tail of your bar like I've done here so you don't throw chains and that will shorten your bar so that you will need to take 1 DL out of your loops. Also, I have doubts about a stock 372 having the grunt to run a 9 pin in anything hard without having a light touch and high rakers.

An 8 pin doesn't require you to alter your bar or loops and will be much easier on a stock saw.

Ian


----------



## HolmenTree (Sep 27, 2008)

Yes exactly, a 9 pin on a 372 for any kind of cutting is pretty well useless. If your felling, limbing and topping bigger stem pulpwood , a 8 pin may help out a little in the limbing dept. But a 9pin through my experience you would use on a modern 80 cc+ saw in a speed cutting competition. Depth gauges set at 10 thousands,and a list of other modifications.
But if your looking for a 9 pin 3/8 rim or bigger, Madsen's sells them.


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Sep 27, 2008)

I've only got one loop of chain for that 9 pin setup to play with. Freshly sharpened it did pretty well in 15" Doug fir, but then my 372 isn't exactly stock.

Ian


----------



## 2000ssm6 (Sep 27, 2008)

http://www.danzcoinc.com/html/tooth_count_375.htm


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Sep 27, 2008)

That's the link I lost... thanks


----------



## 2000ssm6 (Sep 27, 2008)

Haywire Haywood said:


> I've only got one loop of chain for that 9 pin setup to play with. Freshly sharpened it did pretty well in 15" Doug fir, but then my 372 isn't exactly stock.
> 
> Ian



Yup, a bad arse 372 indeed!


----------



## scotclayshooter (Sep 27, 2008)

Haywire Haywood said:


> Dean at Washingtonprosaws gave me the one I have when I was out at the PNW GTG. I used to have the address for the web site that sold them but I can't seem to find it now. I think Dean said he couldn't use it because of the exposed rivet tails on the one side.
> 
> Ian



I gather Dean is in hospital just now i think he is selling all his stuff


----------



## SawTroll (Sep 27, 2008)

Haywire Haywood said:


> Also, going as big as 9 poses some problems to overcome. You will probably have to trim the tail of your bar like I've done here so you don't throw chains and that will shorten your bar so that you will need to take 1 DL out of your loops. Also, I have doubts about a stock 372 having the grunt to run a 9 pin in anything hard without having a light touch and high rakers.
> 
> An 8 pin doesn't require you to alter your bar or loops and will be much easier on a stock saw.
> 
> Ian



Guess I will stay with the 8-pin........


----------



## SawTroll (Sep 27, 2008)

scotclayshooter said:


> I gather Dean is in hospital just now i think he is selling all his stuff




Wtf is going on????????


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Sep 27, 2008)

Yea, I hadn't heard about this. What is up?

Ian


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Sep 27, 2008)

Found this on the "other" site. No details. Quote edited for spelling correction.



Dean said:


> Hey guy, as most know I have gotten out of the saw scene except for building a few for select customers. My health has been rough and recently had major surgery and am in for a long recovery. Any how to make a long story short I will be selling off a lot of stuff out of the shop. If you are looking for anything please let me know. I have piston and cylinder sets, collector saws, parts and pieces and even a small cache of 1/2" chain. I will be making a list on here little by little as time allow. If there is anything specific you are looking for please let me know and I will try and find it. It may be a little slow as I am only able to be up a few hours a day.
> 
> --snip--
> 
> I have been having some complications and {have been} in {and} out of the hospital. Recovery time has been rough.


----------



## MCW (Sep 27, 2008)

AUSSIE1 said:


> All sounds good MCW, got a name that goes with that user?
> Wouldn't mind fangin around Tassie in the new year or the next on the BM for a coupla weeks.
> Where you located?
> Those dolmars sound the goods.
> ...



Hi Al.
I'm in Loxton, South Australia mate. Tassie, along with southern WA, is one of the nicest places I've ever been. Government is good too. They don't mind you cutting a few trees down here and there unlike the rest of Australia and you can get a permit to go into national forest and cut up dead wood (you'd get arrested in South Oz). I suppose you've heard about the Victorian government bringing in legislation that if farmers want to cut a dead tree down, and its over 40cm diameter at 1.3m off the ground they need to apply for a permit. Has to get inspected by some authority to check that it hasn't got hollow sections with some cuddly fluffy animals in it or rare birds. If you listened to the Greenies farmers have killed every animal within a 500km radius anyway.
Can''t wait for my Dolmar to arrive.
Matt.


----------



## scotclayshooter (Sep 27, 2008)

Haywire Haywood said:


> Found this on the "other" site. No details. Quote edited for spelling correction.



Thats the one i read as well 
The new pistons he was doing are still not fully developed but getting there!


----------



## stevethekiwi (Sep 28, 2008)

MCW said:


> I suppose you've heard about the Victorian government bringing in legislation that if farmers want to cut a dead tree down, and its over 40cm diameter at 1.3m off the ground they need to apply for a permit.



:jawdrop: :jawdrop: :jawdrop: :jawdrop:


----------



## AUSSIE1 (Sep 28, 2008)

MCW said:


> Hi Al.
> I'm in Loxton, South Australia mate. Tassie, along with southern WA, is one of the nicest places I've ever been. Government is good too. They don't mind you cutting a few trees down here and there unlike the rest of Australia and you can get a permit to go into national forest and cut up dead wood (you'd get arrested in South Oz). I suppose you've heard about the Victorian government bringing in legislation that if farmers want to cut a dead tree down, and its over 40cm diameter at 1.3m off the ground they need to apply for a permit. Has to get inspected by some authority to check that it hasn't got hollow sections with some cuddly fluffy animals in it or rare birds. If you listened to the Greenies farmers have killed every animal within a 500km radius anyway.
> Can''t wait for my Dolmar to arrive.
> Matt.



Yeah Matt, things are getting quite ridiculous around here.
You should see the dead wood/trees from the previous bushfires waiting to add fuel to the next lot of fires, and yet it's an offence to help yourself. Go figure?

Al.


----------



## Epic saws (Feb 21, 2014)

nickg said:


> After all you guys help, i decided on a 372xp,, went to my husky/stihl dealer and did as you guys suggested. i held both stihl and husqvarna and decided that i felt more comfortable with the 372 (tad bit heavy).. they offer 18, 20 , 24 inch bar sizes, any recommendations on the size of the bar? My use is 10% falling ,90% bucking / cutting firewood. Thanks in advance..!




I run a 24 on mine, cutts better than a woodchuck on crack


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