# vermont castings resolute



## bruce6670 (Jan 14, 2010)

Does anyone have any opinions on the Resolute wood stove by Vermont Castings.I'm thinking of buying one that is from around 1980 and wanted to know if this is a good idea.

I also would like to know if it will be big enough for my 1600 sq.ft. house.

Thanks .


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## Ductape (Jan 14, 2010)

We had one, it had 1979 cast into the fireback. I bought it used..... used it a couple years and sold it for almost what i paid for it. Our house is an old New Englander, close in size to your house. It did pretty well, but i won't quite claim we heated 100% with it. No doubt it will do you well in your milder climate. It was built like a tank, and no doubt still heating the guy's house i sold it to. Here it is just before it's new owner picked it up, just after we bought our VC Defiant.


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## bruce6670 (Jan 14, 2010)

Ya that's the stove.The one I looked at was black and seemed to be in very good shape.I don't know much about them though.

Are there any little problems I should be looking for ?


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## Ductape (Jan 14, 2010)

Check all the gaskets. They are easily replaced if they need to be. If they leak, you'll know it cuz it'll eat wood. Check it over for cracks. I never did a thing to mine while i owned it. If you end up with it..... i may still have the original manual from mine if you need one.


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## bruce6670 (Jan 14, 2010)

Ductape said:


> Check all the gaskets. They are easily replaced if they need to be. If they leak, you'll know it cuz it'll eat wood. Check it over for cracks. I never did a thing to mine while i owned it. If you end up with it..... i may still have the original manual from mine if you need one.



The guy has the manual and the original paperwork.

The asking price is $800. and it comes with 10' of 8" double wall chimney pipe,and most of the other installation parts.

Is it ok to use 8" chimney pipe when it calls for 6" ?

Thanks for the help.


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## Ductape (Jan 14, 2010)

About what i paid for mine when i bought it. I can't comment on the stovepipe. Mine had a collar for 6 inch, which i believe is what the stove is designed for. 8 sounds too large to me, but i suppose there are alot of factors that come into play..... length of flue, etc. Better get some advice from someone with more knowledge on flue size than me.


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## bruce6670 (Jan 14, 2010)

8" seems a little big to me,but I really don't know much about how they work.


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## bruce6670 (Jan 14, 2010)

TreeCo said:


> Get a new modern stove. The increase in efficiency will pay for itself in short order. That is way too much money for an outdated stove design.



I looked into new stoves and just can't spend the money for one right now.Maybe I'll find a newer style used stove if I'm lucky.


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## coog (Jan 14, 2010)

It's a fine stove for the dough, especially if you are able to cut your own wood.Better to depend on state of the art 1980's technology than freeze or pay the gas man.I would stick with 6" pipe as it will be more efficient than the 8".


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## bruce6670 (Jan 14, 2010)

coog said:


> It's a fine stove for the dough, especially if you are able to cut your own wood.Better to depend on state of the art 1980's technology than freeze or pay the gas man.I would stick with 6" pipe as it will be more efficient than the 8".



Thanks for the reply Coog.

Wood is a none issue for me; I have plenty available.As for the gas man (oil man),I hear you.

How come the 8" pipe is less efficient than the 6" ? This stuff is new to me.


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## KodiakKen (Jan 14, 2010)

*get the stove*

look at the recommended venting then look at local codes..then figure out what you need..double wall is a huge waste of heat unless you have to like me. 8" pipe is probably not needed but you can reduce it to 6" for the expensive pipe above the ceiling. vermont castings is no longer in business from what I understand, but parts are still readily available. I have a 2461 cat stove I have had run hard and this is my 7th year with no replacement parts except for tightening the door bolts. Good luck with your decision


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## bruce6670 (Jan 15, 2010)

KodiakKen said:


> look at the recommended venting then look at local codes..then figure out what you need..double wall is a huge waste of heat unless you have to like me. 8" pipe is probably not needed but you can reduce it to 6" for the expensive pipe above the ceiling. vermont castings is no longer in business from what I understand, but parts are still readily available. I have a 2461 cat stove I have had run hard and this is my 7th year with no replacement parts except for tightening the door bolts. Good luck with your decision



The reason I asked about the bigger pipe was because it is included with the stove I'm getting.I think 6" is probably better, but if the 8" comes with it,I'll use it if it's not going to be an issue.


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## KodiakKen (Jan 15, 2010)

*if you have 8" triple wall(or double wall insulated)*

the black pipe is the cheap part. unless you are talking about enough 8" all the way out..it will not hurt anything..the stove will only allow enough flow as you let it flow with the air inlet..if you have 6" pipe the air inlet might be around 1/4-3/8 and with 8" might be 1/8-1/4. you can still regulate it. if it comes with it..I guess I would have to say you would be silly for spending money on something you don't need.. kinda like buying a bulldozer to plow your driveway.


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## bruce6670 (Jan 15, 2010)

KodiakKen said:


> the black pipe is the cheap part. unless you are talking about enough 8" all the way out..it will not hurt anything..the stove will only allow enough flow as you let it flow with the air inlet..if you have 6" pipe the air inlet might be around 1/4-3/8 and with 8" might be 1/8-1/4. you can still regulate it. if it comes with it..I guess I would have to say you would be silly for spending money on something you don't need.. kinda like buying a bulldozer to plow your driveway.



It comes with 10' of 8" double wall insulated plus some extras.


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## KodiakKen (Jan 15, 2010)

*8" pipe*

are you talking from the ceiling up or from the stove to the ceiling? or all the way. if from the stove to ceiling..follow recommended stove installation and code..if there is enough 8" to get you all the way out.. by all means save your money and use it. If you get 8" from the ceiling out..use that and follow code from the stove to ceiling buy a new ceiling support or adapt from stove to ceiling.. 8" pipe will only allow you more draft. unless you notice over firing with an almost closed stove.. I would say it is ok..google it and see if it specifies both sizes.


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## KodiakKen (Jan 15, 2010)

*10 foot of double wall insulated*

is from the ceiling up. there is nothing wrong with going from a 6" from the stove to the ceiling with adapters as long as you can find all the parts to adapt from one size to another..do some searches and see what is more cost efficient. the pipe from the ceiling up is the expensive part. if you have that in 8" and your stove outlet is 8" ....I would do that and save a shi*load of money on high priced 2100 degree pipe as long as it is in good shape. I have seen many sites that say double wall insulated is better than triple wall and have used both and didn't see much of a difference..I guess it depends how you burn. I always burn hot with seasoned wood. if you plan on using your HO insurance to cover your woodburner..it is more up to code than word of mouth. check with that manufacturer..you should be able to download a manual of that stove and local codes as well..that should give you everything you need to know


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## bruce6670 (Jan 15, 2010)

The stove also comes with 6" black pipe to go from the stove to the ceiling.I think it also comes with the adapter.

The guy who has it bought most of the stuff to install the stove and then changed his mind.

I called my insurance company and they said I can put it in and I also will be getting the local permits so that I don't have any problems later.


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## bruce6670 (Jan 15, 2010)

I priced some new 6" double wall insulated today.$60. per foot.I'm thinking about going that route instead of using old pipe, just to have piece of mind.


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## coog (Jan 15, 2010)

Maybe a crazy thought, but how about using 6" black pipe with a wrap inside the 8" class A ? Lots cheaper and every bit as safe.


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 15, 2010)

TreeCo said:


> Get a new modern stove. The increase in efficiency will pay for itself in short order. That is way too much money for an outdated stove design.


+1. This stove was originally offered back in the late '70s along with its big brother, the Defiant. Both were good stoves in their day, but I doubt if their overall efficiency is much higher than 60%.

For that kind of money or for a few dollars more, you can do much better today and even obtain a new stove.


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## coog (Jan 15, 2010)

You'd better define a "few".Having bought Hearthstones and Jotuls new, I would say a "few thousand" more. A 1970 Chevy is not nearly as efficient as a new one, but it will do the job if that is what you have.


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## bruce6670 (Jan 15, 2010)

What is the difference between the the more efficient new ones and the less efficient old ones ? Is it just the amount of wood that you burn or are there other factors to consider ?


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## coog (Jan 15, 2010)

The new stoves burn cleaner, thus the EPA approval.I have read that they use 30% less wood, but that has not been my experience.I would rather use a 1980 VC than many of the modern stoves I see.I am all for clean-burning appliances, but I also believe in using stuff that still works.You will happy with that stove until you choose to get something else and the VC will still be worth what you paid.


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## Tim in NY (Jan 15, 2010)

Keep in mind the Resolute was the larger of the 2 small VC stoves of that era. The Intrepid was the little one - both took a 6" stove pipe. You may have trouble getting an overnight burn due to the firebox size. But they were real good stoves. The seams needed to be re-caulked occassionally, so you may need to do that.

I almost think that small of a stove may not generate enough heat to keep an 8" chimney warm enough to stay clean. Guess if you crank it all the time it would be OK.

The Vigilant and the Defiant were the 2 "big" VC stoves from that time that used 8" pipe and chimney. I agree with one of the earlier posters - $800 seems high for that old of a stove, but then again it comes with chimney pipe that is very expensive new.

I worked for a VC dealer in the mid 80's - we sold a ton of Resolutes and Vigilants. Seems everyone pretty much was pleased. The exception was the very first catalytics they put out - add-on boxes for the back of the Vigilant. I remember selling one - and that guy definitely was not happy!

Tim


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## logbutcher (Jan 15, 2010)

Yes :agree2:, the post-1989 EPA stoves are more efficient, do burn cleaner, and have longer burn cycles, burn safer. It's your call....but, if like many of us it is your main source of 24/7 heating the place, think about the payback. 
$1000. in 10 years is____  ? No one would consider going cheap on a whole house oil or gas furnace, so why a much less expensive wood stove ? 

The VC Resolute is an older model. Some of the later ones ( check hearthnet for serial numbers and users' experience ) made by the 'new' VC were defective. Hundreds were sent to dealers in warmer regions such as the Carolinas where the heating load was not as serious as more northern areas.
It was the beginning of the end for the formerly high quality VC brand.

( Full metal disclosure :monkey:: our 2001 VC cat Encore has run full bore for 100% heat. Plenty of yearly maintenance (gaskets), some repairs, some part replacement, and a usual 2-3 year cat replacement. The other house 'wing'--about the same size-- is heated with a non-cat Jotul Oslo. Fewer maintenance problems, but much less efficient than the Encore cat. Both are run 24/7, with no backup in downeast Maine. )

Recommendation: don't get the Resolute....at any price. $800. is high for an older stove anyhow. There are many high quality, reliable stoves out there at various costs. Cat or non-cat, cast or steel, big or small, US or Scandinavian. 

Do the research first, ask dealers, ask owners, look online for comments.

It was said here: the installation cost will easily match the stove cost. Don't go cheap on the flue system----match the stove specs with the flue. 

JMNSHO


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## bruce6670 (Jan 15, 2010)

Tim in NY said:


> Keep in mind the Resolute was the larger of the 2 small VC stoves of that era. The Intrepid was the little one - both took a 6" stove pipe. You may have trouble getting an overnight burn due to the firebox size. But they were real good stoves. The seams needed to be re-caulked occassionally, so you may need to do that.
> 
> I almost think that small of a stove may not generate enough heat to keep an 8" chimney warm enough to stay clean. Guess if you crank it all the time it would be OK.
> 
> ...





I just offered the guy $400. for the stove without the old pipe.He said that he'll let me know after he thinks about it.

I would rather buy new double wall 6" and have the best set up so I don't have any problems.

Thanks for the heads up on the first cat models.I'll stay away from those.


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## bruce6670 (Jan 15, 2010)

Thanks for the reply Logbutcher. Can you recommend any newer stoves that are good quality and can be found at a decent price.

I need to heat about 1,600 sq.ft.


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## logbutcher (Jan 15, 2010)

Take your wife/partner/whatever to local dealers....look around, ask, poke, play around with the openings and control(s). Get customer references. Diddle on hearthnet for stove reviews and user experiences.

Woodstock in VT has cat stoves that owners love with exceptional customer service. Pacific Energy (US) has a good line. Jotul (Norway) and Hearthstone (VT) are high quality brands. Remember that the stove is an appliance you'll be spending quality time in front of---don't get an ugly. 

And look for sales, returns, ding sales---best usually in the Spring when dealers want to change inventory.


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## coog (Jan 15, 2010)

_Take your wife/partner/whatever to local dealers....look around, ask, poke, play around with the openings_

What kind of wierdo are you, anyway?


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## logbutcher (Jan 15, 2010)

coog said:


> _Take your wife/partner/whatever to local dealers....look around, ask, poke, play around with the openings_
> 
> What kind of wierdo are you, anyway?



Wood stove openings :monkey:.....what kind of wierdo thinks wierd...or worse.
You smoking something funny ?


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## coog (Jan 15, 2010)

Only smoke here is what you're blowing up the OP's a$$.Sure, the new stoves are sexy;he told us his budget won't allow it right now.That stove is a 1980 vintage, well before VC's problems.I hope he gets it for $400.We all seem to want the newest, the best.That stove has kept thousands of homes warm for years.


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## Zodiac45 (Jan 16, 2010)

logbutcher said:


> Take your wife/partner/whatever to local dealers....look around, ask, poke, play around with the openings and control(s). Get customer references. Diddle on hearthnet for stove reviews and user experiences.
> 
> Woodstock in VT has cat stoves that owners love with exceptional customer service. Pacific Energy (US) has a good line. Jotul (Norway) and Hearthstone (VT) are high quality brands. Remember that the stove is an appliance you'll be spending quality time in front of---don't get an ugly.
> 
> And look for sales, returns, ding sales---best usually in the Spring when dealers want to change inventory.



Woodstock is a town in Vermont, but the Woodstock soapstone stove company is actually in West Lebanon, NH. Go figure.


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## logbutcher (Jan 16, 2010)

Zodiac45 said:


> Woodstock is a town in Vermont, but the Woodstock soapstone stove company is actually in West Lebanon, NH. Go figure.



:agree2: Right Steve...thanks.

Woodstock Soapstone is one fine company according to customers on hearthnet. You never read bad reviews.

W. Lebanon, NH is on the state line ( Connecticut River ) near the center of the universe @ Dartmouth College . Besides, Vermont has that bucolic cache, while New Hampshire has only low taxes and the famous "Live Free of Die" state motto. Ask Woodbooga.


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## bruce6670 (Jan 27, 2010)

Just thought that I would give you guys an update on my wood stove project.

I couldn't get the Resolute for $400. so I took the advice of some of you and checked out new stoves.After a lot of consideration,I bought a new Regency F2400 for $1,700.It comes with a blower and some other options such as legs instead of the ugly pedestal base and the brushed nickel accent on the door.

I would have gone with the older stove,but the deal just wasn't going to happen.

Thanks for all the help.I'll take some pictures of the whole install.:camera:


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## bruce6670 (Jan 27, 2010)

I forgot to mention that I was also getting a 30% rebate on the stove and the chimney pipe.That's what sealed the deal.


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## AKwoody (Sep 30, 2015)

I also have an opportunity to buy a VC resolute. Used for $500.00 obo. She says it needs some parts replaced (back wall or something like that). I've read the preceding threads and understand that gaskets are usually needing replacement. I plan to go look at the stove this weekend and wondering if y'all have any advice on where and what to really look for : warping? cracks? etc.? I read in the VC manual online that cracks can be filled w/ furnace cement. This seems like an odd think for them to put in there manual unless it is a common occurrence (for a $2,500 stove???). Is that an easy fix? Also - I haven't found a picture yet, but there is supposedly an outside air kit. Any one use one? does it attach to the bottom of the stove? Any advice greatly appreciated.


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## coog (Sep 30, 2015)

One old thread. That stove is not worth $500 unless it was only used a few seasons. Parts are too difficult to justify that price,,IMO.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 30, 2015)

AKwoody said:


> I also have an opportunity to buy a VC resolute. Used for $500.00 obo. She says it needs some parts replaced (back wall or something like that). I've read the preceding threads and understand that gaskets are usually needing replacement. I plan to go look at the stove this weekend and wondering if y'all have any advice on where and what to really look for : warping? cracks? etc.? I read in the VC manual online that cracks can be filled w/ furnace cement. This seems like an odd think for them to put in there manual unless it is a common occurrence (for a $2,500 stove???). Is that an easy fix? Also - I haven't found a picture yet, but there is supposedly an outside air kit. Any one use one? does it attach to the bottom of the stove? Any advice greatly appreciated.



I inherited an Acclaim with the house we live in now.

The fire bricks and the upper fire back seem to be the most neglected. I ended up replacing the rear arch bricks with OE parts from Vermont Castings. The side bricks I used fire brick from menards and cut the bottom brick to fit the angle of the bottom of the stove. Works fine. 

The upper fire back can distort and crack if you over fire the stove with the damper open.

The main, and most expensive "maintenance" item is the refractory or combustor. It will run you about $250 and more than likely needs to be replaced. The one in my stove was almost completely gone and is often overlooked by casual users. In fact, since I replaced it I can already see a decline in its appearance and its been less than 1 year. It still works fine but the material appears to be somewhat consumable.

I did end up putting a fair chunk of money into the stove, but if had been severely neglected by the previous owner. He had replaced all the fire bricks with 1" plate steel. Run the stove hot enough to warp the griddle and one of the grates as well as deform the upper fireback to an alarming degree.

All that being said.... Its a runner. Id like to get a longer burn time out of it, but it is what it is. 

Just about all the parts are available from Woodland Direct.


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## Sandhill Crane (Oct 1, 2015)

AKwoody: The outside air kit is fairly inexpensive, and for the Defiant model mounts on the back of the stove near the botton. Then you run small diameter ductwork from outside to it. It is especially needed in very well sealed homes so the chimney draws properly. Before buying, price the needed parts, as back wall parts are expensive. Over firing damages this area. This happens when starting the stove. Air control is fully open. Cat bypass is open until stove reaches operating temperature. Cat bypass is then closed, and air control adjusted. If the cat bypass is left open, as in off in another room starting diner, the stove can quickly go from 500 degrees to plus 700 degrees. Then you can smell it. If you close the bypass and shut down the air, the temp again changes quickly. I'm guessing, from experience, that this 'quick change of temperature' is what causes the cast to warp/fatigue. Operator error on these cat stoves, not poor quality.


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## AKwoody (Oct 1, 2015)

Thanks for the replies. I'll check it out this weekend and let y'all know what I come up with.


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## CaseyForrest (Oct 2, 2015)

AKwoody said:


> Thanks for the replies. I'll check it out this weekend and let y'all know what I come up with.


You can't see the entire combustor unless you remove the rear arch bricks and even then, unless it is severely deteriorated you won't be able to see inside the combuster. 

The upper fire back is what the damper is attached to. It normally warps and cracks at the bottom right in the middle. 

sent from a field


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## AKwoody (Oct 2, 2015)

Good stuff. I'm becoming more apprehensive and I haven't even seen the stove yet. Is it easy to determine which resolute model and vintage? 
I'm tempted to just stick with my Napolean..... but will inspect the VC for damage. Maybe I'll take some pics and post here before I make the leap.
thanks


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## CaseyForrest (Oct 2, 2015)

There should be a tag on the back of the stove. If it has a heat deflector attached, you'll need to remove it to get the specific model number and other information.

The older vintage are great stoves, at least mine is. They heat well but could use larger fireboxes to increase burn time.

I'm specifically referring to my 2490 Resolute Acclaim. I want to replace it for 1 reason only... Longer burn times. I'm gone most of the day and we heat the house solely with wood and I want to simplify the process for my wife. A stove that can heat 2400 sqft and get 10 hour burn times would be ideal, if not a minimum. My stove can heat the space, but I only get 4-6 hour burn times using hard woods. And thats usually letting it go to coals.


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