# Choosing new 50cc saw, Dolmar, Husky, Stihl, Jonsereds?



## Carl Anderson (Mar 29, 2011)

Hi, I am having more carb issues with my 15 year old Jonsereds 2050 and might just get a new saw and keep the Jonsereds as a backup. I like the size and weight of the Jonsereds and it's enough power for my occasional cutting duties so something similar is good. I need an all-around saw in the $350-$400 range (give or take a few bucks).

So here is my list:
Dolmar 510 - dealer can get me one for $350 tax and everything.
Stihl MS 290 Farm Boss - big, heavy for $370 plus tax = $392 total
Stihl MS 270 - a little smaller but a little too expensive $477 total (MS 291 is out of my price range)
Stihl MS 250 - $318 total (in the "occasional use" category - does that mean it's lighter duty, not as rugged?)
Husky 450 - similar to the Jonsereds 2050 I think at $392 total
Husky 455 Rancher - big, heavy, $424
Jonsereds 2250s - $424 total

I would rather stay away from the Rancher and Farm Boss unless one of them is the overwhelming choice. I am often climbing around getting into places to cut and the smaller, lighter saws are better for that.

If I went with the Dolmar should I go 20" 3/8 bar/chain, 18" 3/8, or go 18 .325 .50 gauge? (that would match the Jonsereds and make files, chains, bars, interchangeable). Isn't 20" a little big for a 50cc saw?

The main thing for me is I am an occasional cutter but when I cut I don't have time to tinker around with the saw. I want one that will be reliable with normal maintenance but can sit on the shelf for a few months but run well when I gas it up and go. I also want long term quality, which is why I'm not mentioning Poulan or Craftsman, etc.

Thanks!


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## blsnelling (Mar 29, 2011)

You left out the best 50cc saws on the market. I personally vote for the 346XP. Last one I bought was still only $465 with a 16" B&C. Also check out the new Stihl MS261 and Dolmar 5105.


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## bluesportster02 (Mar 29, 2011)

I agree with Brad get the 346xp you will be very happy with it.


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## Pendagator (Mar 29, 2011)

What about a Husky 353- it's 11 pounds the Dolmar 510 is 12.1. I think they're pro quality saws around $425.


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## reed1911 (Mar 29, 2011)

*Ms250*

I really like my MS250,better after i changed out the safety chain that came on it. Not saying its a better saw ,just my .02


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## SawTroll (Mar 29, 2011)

blsnelling said:


> You left out the best 50cc saws on the market. I personally vote for the 346XP. Last one I bought was still only $465 with a 16" B&C. Also check out the new Stihl MS261 and Dolmar 5105.


 


bluesportster02 said:


> I agree with Brad get the 346xp you will be very happy with it.


 
:agree2:

Btw, the Husky 450 is the same as the 2250, not the 2050.


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## Boskaerm (Mar 29, 2011)

If you decide on a Husky (jonsered) stay away from the plastic saws, 450 and 455, and stick with the pro quality: 346 xp (2153) or 353 (2152).


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## JustinM (Mar 29, 2011)

blsnelling said:


> You left out the best 50cc saws on the market. I personally vote for the 346XP. Last one I bought was still only $465 with a 16" B&C. Also check out the new Stihl MS261 and Dolmar 5105.


 
100% agree here. These 3 are your best choices for saws in this range imho. Depending upon where you are, cost may be a factor (the 261 and the 346 are both WAY more money than the ones you listed - in my neck of the woods at least - although the 5100/5105 are much closer).

IMHO you will not go wrong with any of these 3 saws. The differences between them comes down to personal preference & biases - they are all great. The ones on your list do have their own issues however.


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## Axlerod74 (Mar 29, 2011)

I for one am not so fast to dismiss the 450 husqvarna. I have used one quite a bit and for the occasoinal cutter who needs a good dependable, easy starting saw that is also fairly light..........these are good saws. I own a few "plastic" case husqvarna saws and while they may not last 20+ years like many mag case saws, for general use and even significant firewood cutting, mine have performed very well and have held up very well. As with anything else, take good care of what you have and it will last you a good while.


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## blsnelling (Mar 29, 2011)

The 450 and 353 aren't very good choices when the 346 can be had for just a little more. The 353 is a better choice than the 450. It's the same saw as the 346 with a different P&C.


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## Carl Anderson (Mar 29, 2011)

I didn't see the Husky 353 before but that looks like a real good option too, just a litte out of the price range at about $445 total but might be worth the extra pinch if I can do it. The 346xp is $500 around here plus tax makes it $530, too rich for my blood unless I find a real good used one, same with the Dolmar 5105 so I left them off the list of possibilities. MS 261 is almost $600 total, can't do that one but it looks nice.

So I think the new list looks like:
Dolmar 510 - still looking good at $350 but is it plastic crank case?
Husky 353 - if I can swing the extra $$$ at $445
Stihl MS 250 - But is a saw in Stihl's "occasional use" category going to last long while still costing $318 total, almost as much as the Dolmar?

The guy who sells Jonsereds in my town said the 2250 was basically an updated version of the 2050, maybe not.


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## caleath (Mar 29, 2011)

Go Echo....I thought we all agreed we would say that?


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## SawTroll (Mar 29, 2011)

Carl Anderson said:


> Dolmar 510 - still looking good at $350 but is it plastic crank case?


 Not plastic, but aluminum, compared to the magnesium used in the pro saws. Aliminum is heavier, that is where the extra weight is. 




Carl Anderson said:


> The guy who sells Jonsereds in my town said the 2250 was basically an updated version of the 2050, maybe not.



It isn't - totally different, but it is the replacement for the replacement.....


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## Jere39 (Mar 29, 2011)

*Me too*

I'm in the exact same position of choosing a 50cc 18" saw. And, I am in the same price range as you.

I narrowed it down to a near same list:

Stihl MS 270
Husky 353
Dolmar 5105

My options are narrowing to the Dolmar and the Stihl based on proximity of dealers, and service.

I too have gotten advice to step up to the Stihl or Husky pro saw, but the extra $100 is not going to make it in my budget. I hope you get the insight and inspiration you need to pick one soon. I'd like to be sawing up the last of my downed oak firewood logs as soon as Saturday. I don't like sawing in the heat, and I'm missing perfect weather this week, clear skies, mornings in the 20's afternoons in the 40's.


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## sunfish (Mar 29, 2011)

If ya just go ahead and get a 346xp now, you'll be very glad later!


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## Carl Anderson (Mar 29, 2011)

I know I said weight is a consideration and it is, but with the Dolmar having the aluminum crank case instead of magnesium, I can probably live with the slight extra weight if it's the best bang for the buck otherwise. Is aluminum about as good as magnesium, just heavier?

And what is the difference between the 510 and 5105? The dealer said it was RPMs but anything else?


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## SawTroll (Mar 29, 2011)

Carl Anderson said:


> ...
> 
> And what is the difference between the 510 and 5105? The dealer said it was RPMs but anything else?



Basically rpm, power and Alu vs. Mag case, that translates into a weight difference. There may be more, that I am not aware of.


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## JustinM (Mar 29, 2011)

Carl Anderson said:


> I know I said weight is a consideration and it is, but with the Dolmar having the aluminum crank case instead of magnesium, I can probably live with the slight extra weight if it's the best bang for the buck otherwise. Is aluminum about as good as magnesium, just heavier?
> 
> And what is the difference between the 510 and 5105? The dealer said it was RPMs but anything else?


 
honestly, thats probably it. The 5105 "feels" faster - due in large part to the weight difference & probably a bit of tom-foolery on the brain to be honest. My dad has a 510 and the times Ive run it, it does feel a lot like my 5100. 

I will say this: it does seem more forgiving in terms of needing adjustment or tuning. Im not sure why that is, I would assume because it runs a little slower. My 5100 is one of (if not the) my favorite saws but I am always very careful to tune it & make sure its good to go before a long day's work. My dad seems to just pull it out whenever & go. Thats probably a plus in favor of the 510 based on your original post.


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## JustinM (Mar 29, 2011)

Jere39 said:


> I'm in the exact same position of choosing a 50cc 18" saw. And, I am in the same price range as you.
> 
> I narrowed it down to a near same list:
> 
> ...



If this is your short list, remember that 1 of those is a true professional saw, the other 2 are pro-sumer models.


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## Anthony_Va. (Mar 29, 2011)

I tell ya man, I'm a broke arsed fool. Can't hardly buy a free meal.

But when I buy a saw, and Iknow it's a saw Im going to keep forever, I will save that extra chunk of change to get the best. Even if it takes months, I'll save up what I need so as not to settle for second best. 

IMO, if it were me, I'd save up that extra 50 bucks for a 346xp. You wont regret that choice. It gives you so much more than the cheaper models. Longetivity being the most important thing.


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## SawTroll (Mar 29, 2011)

JustinM said:


> If this is your short list, remember that 1 of those is a true professional saw, the other 2 are pro-sumer models.



Actually none of them are true pro saws, but the Husky sure is much closer than the others.


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## Ambull (Mar 29, 2011)

This is the most common thread topic on this board. It usually ends up in a fight.....

Stihl: the cadillac, generally highest price, highest resale value, most expensive to fix, most sex appeal

Husqvarna: very solid good running saw. generally priced a little less than Stihl

Dolmar: lowest price, good performer, most hated saw by people that don't have one

Solo: low price as well, not as popular

Echo: sorry but that is a home depot saw. a good performer none the less

hope this helps


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## indiansprings (Mar 29, 2011)

With you not considering the two best 50cc saws the Ms 261 Stihl and 346xpne Husky I would find me a really clean 028 Stihl or 028 super even if I had to get in the 250-300.00 range, they are a better saw than most you have listed. Pro-Construction and bullet proof with thousands upon thousand still in use.


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## TK (Mar 29, 2011)

You're just having carburetor problems? Would a carburetor not be cheaper than a whole new saw or are you looking for an excuse to spend some cash? :msp_biggrin: If that's the case then go for the 353 or 346xp.


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## Carl Anderson (Mar 29, 2011)

I agree it's better to save for better quality but I need a saw soon and the 346xp is $180 more than the Dolmar 510. I know the xp is better but for the occasional cutter like me $530 is hard to justify. I'm not making money with the saw like most of you guys are. When I was a landscaper we had pro grade tools (saws, mowers, etc) and I got spoiled but I have to be realistic with my needs and my budget now that I'm a just landowner, not earning a living with my tools. 

If the xp were $430 I might step up to it but at $530 I just can't. The Husky 353 is $455 total which is stretching it pretty far and nobody has convinced me that it's $100 better than the 510 yet. The Stihls just seem to be very pricey for the features you get.

I'm still open to suggestions but the 510 is in the lead for now. Are there any drawbacks to the 510 that haven't come out yet? I heard the 5100 series had issues running lean and needed extra attention. Is there anyting like that with the 510? I like what Justin said about his dad's 510 just being ready to cut without having to tune it first. I perform regular maintenance but I'm not a mechanic and don't want to have to tinker with a saw and screw it up.


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## openloop (Mar 29, 2011)

*husky 450*

I personally own a 450 and if you are looking for something that doesnt have to be super duper pro level the 450 is a GREAT saw. very light and smooth cutting. Ive used mine to cut up HUGE trees and it never let me down.


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## homelitejim (Mar 29, 2011)

Why not buy a slightly used pro saw at a fraction of the price? For $350-400 I would be looking at a nice 044 with 28" bar so I didn't have to bend over so much. I think you can also find the husky 346xp used in your price range or a good 026-260 stihl.Husqvarna 346XP Chainsaw - eBay (item 320676948578 end time Apr-02-11 17:39:03 PDT)


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## SawTroll (Mar 29, 2011)

I have huge problems with understanding how minor price differenses is such a big issue - saws are *dirt cheap *in the US anyway, compared to most of the world.....


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## sunfish (Mar 29, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> I have huge problems with understanding how minor price differenses is such a big issue - saws are *dirt cheap *in the US anyway, compared to most of the world.....


 
Got that right!


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## blsnelling (Mar 29, 2011)

Carl Anderson said:


> If the xp were $430 I might step up to it but at $530 I just can't.


 
You need to go shopping and buy the better saw. You should be able to buy one for $440-$465.

Interested in a very lightly used MS261? I can get you one shipped to you for $500. I'll even mod the muffler and retune for free.


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## indiansprings (Mar 29, 2011)

Brad, he should take you up on that offer. For a pure firewood saw I like the 261 quite a bit more than the 346. That's a heck of a good deal, it should be the last saw he should ever need.


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## artbaldoni (Mar 29, 2011)

Went from an 044 Stihl to the Dolmar 5105. Was a little scared but now that I'm using it I absolutely love it. The lighter saw is easier for me to use for hours on end and seeing that the largest thing I _usually_ cut is 20" or less it performs well for me. Don't be scared off by the stories of the Dolmars having lean/heat lock up issues. That was with the 5100s. The 5105s seem to have the issues corrected. Good luck in your quest!


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## Carl Anderson (Mar 29, 2011)

Brad that is very generous, I appreciate the offer. That is a good deal and your expert mod and tuning is definitely worth a lot too if I can make the money work somehow. What bar/chain is on it?

I will also keep an eye on that xp on ebay, thanks for the link Jim, that is very nice of you to take the time to look that up. Right now it's at $376 but reserve not met yet. I'll see where that goes.

I'm sorry to irritate people with budget details, I know it is a pain in the rear but income is down so an extra $100-$200 is a big deal to me right now. I didn't plan on buying a saw this just happened out of the blue and I'm scrambling a bit. I'll try and shut up about the money from here on out.


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## blsnelling (Mar 29, 2011)

20" .325.


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## zogger (Mar 29, 2011)

*Have you looked here?*

http://www.arboristsite.com/classifieds.php?do=main&catid=18

Several decent deals there, take yer pick. If you need it real quick, even fast shipping would still come in way under your budget.

How about your local craigslist? End 0 the season, I notice mine now has chainsaws coming out like crazy. Buyers market now, as opposed to say lawnmowers, now they are starting to creep up in price.


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## blsnelling (Mar 29, 2011)

NMurph is as standup as they come, LINK.


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## SawTroll (Mar 29, 2011)

blsnelling said:


> NMurph is as standup as they come, LINK.



The problem is the color!


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## gmskyjacker (Mar 29, 2011)

I have a rancher 455 and I love it starts in 2 pulls every time in the cold -15 out or 100 degrees out . I run it about 8 hours every weekend still feels new never had a problem with it . But for some reason everyone hates them ha ha the only time I grab another saw is when my 20 inch bar won't go deep enough when layen down a monster


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## Tim Carroll (Mar 29, 2011)

I'm sorry to irritate people with budget details, I know it is a pain in the rear but income is down so an extra $100-$200 is a big deal to me right now. I didn't plan on buying a saw this just happened out of the blue and I'm scrambling a bit. I'll try and shut up about the money from here on out.[/QUOTE]

Don't feel bad about not wanting to spend a extra $100-$200. To me that is a concern if it is above your budget. I think that a Dolmar 510 or 5105 would work just fine for you if that is what your budget allows. I have put a lot of time on my 5100 and I think that the Dolmars are good for the money. They have good AV, good power to weight, good build quality and a better price point. I'm not going to say that they are way better than this or that but that you would get a decent saw that you can afford. Sometimes your just better off with a Chevrolet instead of a Cadilac. IMO


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## nmurph (Mar 30, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> The problem is the color!


 
how do you know what color i am?????


Thanks for the props Brad, I appreciate it!! 

I'm pretty sure I could muff mod a saw


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## Horsepower (Mar 30, 2011)

One of the saws I run is a Dolmar 510. I have really noticed the improvements that antivibration features make in newer saws. My older saws have poor or next to none. I got the 510 with a 18 inch bar and 3/8 .050 chain. The two saw dogs and the Dolmar 64 link chains for this 18 inch bar nearly make this equivalent to a 16 inch actual cut. I put a 20 inch Oregon bar on it to get the depth of cut I needed in cutting up some 32 to 36 inch diameter cottonwoods. When I got the saw I was not aware that the 18 inch Dolmar bar only took a 64 link chain. The saw runs great and cuts through the cottonwoods with the 20 inch bar easily. Has been a pleasure to run. I don't think I will ever notice the additional weight of the aluminum case over the lighter mag case of the 5105, but then I don't cut for a living. Maybe I just enjoy seeing the chips fly so fast and furious that the extra pound isn't a distraction for me.


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## SaludaRiver (Mar 30, 2011)

I, too, am looking for a 50 cc saw that will last for 20 years farm use. I am down to the Husky 353 and the Dolmar PS510.

On the Dolmar, I have always understood that the PS510 has an aluminum crankcase. I called Dolmar and they said magnesium but I don't think so. Other than the added weight vs. the 5105, are there any disadvantages to an aluminum crankcase?

BTW, the Redmax G5300 is identical to the Husky 353 and is currently cheaper. All parts should interchange; disadvantage is that Husky dealers may not service and certainly won't honor the warranty. Both saws have a magnesium crankcase and both are made in Japan.


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## SawTroll (Mar 30, 2011)

nmurph said:


> how do you know what color i am?????
> 
> 
> Thanks for the props Brad, I appreciate it!!
> ...



 You know what I meant, and that it was a joke.....

Actually, I couldn't care less what color _*you*_ are!


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## SaludaRiver (Mar 30, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> I for one am not so fast to dismiss the 450 husqvarna. I have used one quite a bit and for the occasoinal cutter who needs a good dependable, easy starting saw that is also fairly light..........these are good saws. I own a few "plastic" case husqvarna saws and while they may not last 20+ years like many mag case saws, for general use and even significant firewood cutting, mine have performed very well and have held up very well. As with anything else, take good care of what you have and it will last you a good while.



The Husky 450 is currently available from Amicks superstore in Asheboro NC for $339 (you may have to ask for this price by email). A friend of mine has one and it is a great cutting saw. I looked at these, but still I wonder about the plastic instead of metal crankcase, so I have backed off.


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## nmurph (Mar 30, 2011)

Hey, I happen to think my saw looks very nice. With the black top, I think it looks better than the Dolmar variation. It kind of makes me want to buy a Dolmar cover for my Makita versions of the 7900's.


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## mizzou (Mar 30, 2011)

nmurph said:


> Hey, I happen to think my saw looks very nice. With the black top, I think it looks better than the Dolmar variation. It kind of makes me want to buy a Dolmar cover for my Makita versions of the 7900's.


 
Black top is a definate improvement, but I still like the black and red better.


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## Storm56 (Mar 30, 2011)

Buy the Dolmar and never look back. It is in your price range, will last, and meets your needs. Many of the guys here mean well but are blinded by brand loyalty or are hung up on that it has to be a pro saw. The 510 is a good saw for your requirements.


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## Chris J. (Mar 30, 2011)

Storm56 said:


> Buy the Dolmar and never look back. It is in your price range, will last, and meets your needs. Many of the guys here mean well but are blinded by brand loyalty or are hung up on that it has to be a pro saw. The 510 is a good saw for your requirements.


 

Good solid advice; rep sent.


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## Vibes (Mar 30, 2011)

I have a Jonsered 2150 and have run the snot out of it and it hasn't let me down. I bought it before I knew the differance between homeowner and pro. I think a Husky 450 would be a good choice. 

But if I were looking at a new 50 cc saw I would go with an Efco. Even if money wasn't an issue. Check Ebay for the John Deeres. Same saw as an Efco. There is a 50 and a 46 cc on right now and you'll get them in your price range for sure,. My neighbor runs a 62 and a 46 JD, and he loves them. I've run both and like them.


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## SawTroll (Mar 30, 2011)

mizzou said:


> Black top is a definate improvement, but I still like the black and red better.


 
:agree2:


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## eat a peach (Mar 30, 2011)

*this seems like the deal*



blsnelling said:


> You need to go shopping and buy the better saw. You should be able to buy one for $440-$465.
> 
> Interested in a very lightly used MS261? I can get you one shipped to you for $500. I'll even mod the muffler and retune for free.


 I don't know brad personally but I own a 260 and a 346xp . If the 261 is an improvement over the 260 this should be your best bet. this guys rep is outstanding on here and by watching his videos he knows how to treat equipment. Good arguments for all these saws but from personal experience stihls last and are totally dependable. I have the first homeowner stihl I ever bought and except for a carb kit it has run for 20 yrs . Nothing special either a little 021 jmho


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## Steelz (Mar 30, 2011)

If you can save the money buy the ported MS 261. I have the MS 250 18" B&C which I gave too my cousin. One tuff little saw. I decided too buy the MS 261 20" B&C. For the type of wood that I was cutting. There is a huge difference going up too the Pro saws.


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## SaludaRiver (Mar 30, 2011)

Carl Anderson said:


> Brad that is very generous, I appreciate the offer. That is a good deal and your expert mod and tuning is definitely worth a lot too if I can make the money work somehow. What bar/chain is on it?
> 
> I will also keep an eye on that xp on ebay, thanks for the link Jim, that is very nice of you to take the time to look that up. Right now it's at $376 but reserve not met yet. I'll see where that goes.
> 
> I'm sorry to irritate people with budget details, I know it is a pain in the rear but income is down so an extra $100-$200 is a big deal to me right now. I didn't plan on buying a saw this just happened out of the blue and I'm scrambling a bit. I'll try and shut up about the money from here on out.


 
Budget has to be a concern, Carl, so I say keep going. We are occasional users on a site full of folks that use their saws every day.


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## nmurph (Mar 30, 2011)

i bet the ratio of daily users is less than 1 in 5. most of us are weekend warriors that love to tinker and play.


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## mizzou (Mar 30, 2011)

SaludaRiver said:


> Budget has to be a concern, Carl, so I say keep going. We are occasional users on a site full of folks that use their saws every day.


 
Not necessarily, just saw crazy sometimes.:msp_smile:


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## kmcinms (Mar 30, 2011)

blsnelling said:


> NMurph is as standup as they come, LINK.


 
Thass yer saw right there.


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## JustinM (Mar 30, 2011)

Carl Anderson said:


> I'm still open to suggestions but the 510 is in the lead for now. Are there any drawbacks to the 510 that haven't come out yet? I heard the 5100 series had issues running lean and needed extra attention. Is there anyting like that with the 510? I like what Justin said about his dad's 510 just being ready to cut without having to tune it first. I perform regular maintenance but I'm not a mechanic and don't want to have to tinker with a saw and screw it up.


 
The problem, Carl is that you're asking a bunch of saw enthusiasts about what to get & of course we're all going to tell you to "go pro" but in reality the 510 would probably serve you fine. in fact, based on what you're saying (which, like i said, reminds me a little of my dad's needs) the 510 might actually be a better choice than the 5105. 

The 5100 did have a reputation for burning up (although many of us have used them & loved them) but I believe that was due, in large part, to poor dealer set up (I know at least 2 people who ordered dolmars from 2 separate dealers & were just handed a saw in a box - not even fueled, let alone tested/started!!). That said, the 5105 does seem to have the main issues fixed, although its sacrificed a little speed in the process. 

The link to nmurph's dolkita (its a makita with some dolmar parts - dolmar makes the makita line after all) is a really good option to consider. Although obviously you may prefer to get it from a local dealer who can help you in the future & will almost certainly do a retune for you for free once it has 6-10 tanks of gas through it.


No matter what you decide, good luck - and dont worry about 'asking too many questions' - we are all here because we like it


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## homelitejim (Mar 30, 2011)

If you want a good running saw for 10 years buy a plastic case saw. I have seen clam shell saws only last 8-10 years with only weekend use during camping season and a bit of firewood cutting. My 032 has been cutting wood for over 30 years with only the chain, bar, and spark plug being replaced. This saw is a homeowner saw but built to todays pro standards, if you want your saw to last a few lifetimes it is best to buy a pro model, that is why people recommend them over the plastic clam shell home owner saws of today. I have saws that are are 40 and even 50 years old that run as they would brand new and none of them are made of plastic so there must be something to this all metal pro construction. I am a weekend warrior, not a pro, but my saws are.


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## sunfish (Mar 30, 2011)

kmcinms said:


> Thass yer saw right there.


 
Yep, in your price range, I don't think you will find a better deal.
NMurph is a good dude too!

Dito on what homelitejim said about pro models.


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## bcorradi (Mar 30, 2011)

homelitejim said:


> If you want a good running saw for 10 years buy a plastic case saw. I have seen clam shell saws only last 8-10 years with only weekend use during camping season and a bit of firewood cutting.


What happened to these clamshell saws that took them out of commission?


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## nmurph (Mar 30, 2011)

homelitejim said:


> If you want a good running saw for 10 years buy a plastic case saw. I have seen clam shell saws only last 8-10 years with only weekend use during camping season and a bit of firewood cutting. My 032 has been cutting wood for over 30 years with only the chain, bar, and spark plug being replaced. This saw is a homeowner saw but built to todays pro standards, if you want your saw to last a few lifetimes it is best to buy a pro model, that is why people recommend them over the plastic clam shell home owner saws of today. I have saws that are are 40 and even 50 years old that run as they would brand new and none of them are made of plastic so there must be something to this all metal pro construction. I am a weekend warrior, not a pro, but my saws are.


 

I suspect the reason you don't see 40 year old plastic saws is bc they weren't using plastic in saws that long ago. There are lots of very durable clamshell, plastic saws that are felling and bucking trees everyday of their lives. Their durability is just as good as magnesium cased saws. Just about every tree service and right-of-way company is running 290's, etc..... They are cheaper to build, not more cheaply built. Every modern pro saw has a plastic tank and handle assembly. A plastic clamshell saw has the crank supported in a metal base (I know, there are a couple of exceptions) The pro saws are designed to be taken apart for service. I suspect that if manufacturers could figure out how to make a totally plastic-cased, pro-style, non-clamshell saw, that is as light as a Mg-cased saw, that you would see them on shelves everywhere. And while there are lots of very nice, great running old saws, I will take a modern saw everytime, if my livelyhood depended on it, even if it were a plastic-cased clamshell.


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## farrell (Mar 30, 2011)

:agree2: with nmurph

my first saw was a husky 350 (plastic clam shell) that i bought six years ago and it runs better than new. i never had a problem with it till i let a knuckle head barrow it and he ruined the b/c and loosened the muffler and melted the chainbrake off the saw. i fixed it with the help of the guys here and it has never ran so good. they are a lot easier to work on.


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## nmurph (Mar 30, 2011)

Some clamshells are, some aren't. I hate the Stihl design, the Husky 340/345/350 design is actually easier to me than a typical pro construction saw, with the bearings being exposed when the cylinder is removed.


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## homelitejim (Mar 30, 2011)

bcorradi said:


> What happened to these clamshell saws that took them out of commission?


 
lets see, 2 cracked cases causing lean condition, stripped out screws causing case separation and lean condition, bar studs busted out of case, twig puncture thru case, muffler melted case, cracked case from riding on 4 wheeler, just plain wore out and tired with no compression (poulan wildthing 8 years occasional use). Granted most saws were box store saws but one was a husqvarna 435 and one was a stihl ms290. Just walk behind some saw shop and see what is in the dumpster, all clam shell, plastic case saws, the only magnesium saws I have seen in the dumpster were there due to White Death. I'm not trying to bust on plastic saws but people are saying how a home owner saw is as good as a pro saw for occasional work and I beg to differ. I am just not seeing well used 20 year old plastic case saws for sale around here.


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## homelitejim (Mar 30, 2011)

Where are the plastic saws over 70cc? has anyone seen one? I think even the chi-com saws are of metal case construction. if plastic is so durable why is there a limit to its application.


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## bcorradi (Mar 30, 2011)

homelitejim said:


> lets see, 2 cracked cases causing lean condition, stripped out screws causing case separation and lean condition, bar studs busted out of case, twig puncture thru case, muffler melted case, cracked case from riding on 4 wheeler, just plain wore out and tired with no compression (poulan wildthing 8 years occasional use). Granted most saws were box store saws but one was a husqvarna 435 and one was a stihl ms290. Just walk behind some saw shop and see what is in the dumpster, all clam shell, plastic case saws, the only magnesium saws I have seen in the dumpster were there due to White Death. I'm not trying to bust on plastic saws but people are saying how a home owner saw is as good as a pro saw for occasional work and I beg to differ. I am just not seeing well used 20 year old plastic case saws for sale around here.



I've worked on a lot of stihl saws including a ton of clamshell saws and haven't seen those issues to be the norm at all. I know personal acquaintances of mine that have run clamshell saws for the last 20+ years without any issues and they are cutting 8-10 cords of firewood per year with them. There are plenty of mag saws that may not be in the dumpster at the shops, but they aren't economical to fix and haven't died the white death.


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## farrell (Mar 30, 2011)

i have cut hundreds of cords of wood with my husky 350 in 6 years with only one issue (posted above) and that wasnt my or the saws fault! i never said it would or wouldnt outlast a pro saw time will tell. but it has been an awesome saw, period! sorry if you have bad luck with plastic. proper care and maintence makes all the difference!


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## Carl Anderson (Mar 30, 2011)

I do cruise craigslist fairly regularly (got my old Gravely brush mower and '58 Massey Ferguson tractor with loader/backhoe from there). This morning I saw an ad for a 1 year old Dolmar 510 for $175. I left a message for him, would be 45 min drive, not bad if the saw is good.

Getting closer to finding the money for the better new saw though. Even my wife thinks I should just do it (that's a beautiful thing!) and pay it off later as fast as possible. Lord know's I've cut more than $500 worth of firewood the year or two. I have been burned with used stuff before (unintentionally, just bad luck) so not to snub anyone's very generous offers but I'm leaning towards a new saw if I'm gonna spend $300-$500 so I have a warranty/dealer support.

Local Husky dealer has 346xp for $480 Stihl is fading fast because of higher price. Dolmar dealer has the 510 in stock, gonna go check it out. He also says he has a few Efco saws left over from last fall. He bought a bunch of them on a promotion and sold a bunch but not all. He says they are a real good Itallian saw with 5 yr warranty. Nervous to buy a saw I don't hear much about and not a lot of dealers around. 

Any thoughts on Efco?
Also, there is a J-Red dealer local too, what is the 346xp equilalent in J-Red, 2153 maybe?


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## farrell (Mar 30, 2011)

2153 jred and 346xp husky are twin sisters. i dont know anyhting about the efco other than i heard they are hard to get parts for.


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## homelitejim (Mar 30, 2011)

farrell said:


> i have cut hundreds of cords of wood with my husky 350 in 6 years with only one issue (posted above) and that wasnt my or the saws fault! i never said it would or wouldnt outlast a pro saw time will tell. but it has been an awesome saw, period! sorry if you have bad luck with plastic. proper care and maintence makes all the difference!


 
No plastic saws here, I have learned my lesson from watching others. I prefer older saws but if I have to have a new one I will buy a pro saw, look in my signature my 066 and 441 are my newest saws the 441 I got last year. I use my 10-10 and super ez for almost everything non firewood related and never have a problem. I maintain all my saws ask my 770, 40 years old and still cutting wood same with my 032 which has been cutting wood every year for 30 years with nothing more than new bar and chains and a spark plug or two.


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## The Count (Mar 30, 2011)

I have the 346 XP and it is a very small and light saw yet powerful and fun to work with.
cheers.


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## sunfish (Mar 30, 2011)

The Count said:


> I have the 346 XP and it is a very small and light saw yet powerful and fun to work with.
> cheers.


And you didn't ask too many question before you got it, did ya? :hmm3grin2orange:


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## The Count (Mar 30, 2011)

Ha ha. I can`t remember. LOL
I drove everyone crazy. For the life of me I can`t get it how some folks can make up their minds in just few posts.
Truth be told I knew absolutely nothing about chainsaws; now when I look back the right choice is pretty obvious...


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## TK (Mar 30, 2011)

SaludaRiver said:


> BTW, the Redmax G5300 is identical to the Husky 353 and is currently cheaper. All parts should interchange; disadvantage is that Husky dealers may not service and certainly won't honor the warranty. Both saws have a magnesium crankcase and both are made in Japan.


The 353 is made in Sweden, and Husky dealers simply can't service or honor warranty on the Redmax saws unless they are Redmax dealers - even though Redmax is owned by Husky. We can't even order parts unless they cross to a Husky unit. 



homelitejim said:


> Where are the plastic saws over 70cc? has anyone seen one? I think even the chi-com saws are of metal case construction. if plastic is so durable why is there a limit to its application.


 What are the 70+ cc homeowner saws?


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## bcorradi (Mar 30, 2011)

homelitejim said:


> I maintain all my saws ask my 770, 40 years old and still cutting wood same with my 032 which has been cutting wood every year for 30 years with nothing more than new bar and chains and a spark plug or two.


If you take care and maintain your saws like you say a clamshell stihl jonsered, husky, etc would last you many years also. My point is I don't think there is a 8-10 year expiration date on clamshell saws. If you take care of them and cut 10 cords per year there is no reason they won't last 40 years like your 770.


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## The Count (Mar 30, 2011)

TK POWER said:


> What are the 70+ cc homeowner saws?


 
first of all, it must be a big home. second I recomend the PS 7900.


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## Carl Anderson (Mar 30, 2011)

Well, Dolmar 510 was nice (big dual dogs on that thing) but he quoted me wrong before. He meant $350 plus tax, not total and that was for a leftover from last year which he sold a few days ago. The new one he got in today is $365 plus tax = $387. 346xp = $509 total. $122 difference, hmmmmmmm. 

He had a leftover 5100S for $375. That is tempting too but may not be the best fit for me being a part time cutter and not wanting to retune a saw often. J-Red dealer is out of his mind with his prices so that's out, $399 plus tax for a 2250 plastic saw. OK, I said I'd try not to worry so much about money but it is part of the process, I'll try not to whine about money.


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## Chris J. (Mar 30, 2011)

Carl Anderson said:


> ...He had a leftover 5100S for $375. That is tempting too but may not be the best fit for me being a part time cutter and not wanting to retune a saw often...
> OK, I said I'd try not to worry so much about money but it is part of the process, I'll try not to whine about money.




I think you might be misreading the info others have posted on the Dolmar 5100S. I think that they are referring to the re-tuneing the dealer would do after you've ran X of tanks of fuel through it. To my knowledge (limited, I admit) the 5100S isn't a finicky saw that requires frequent adjustments. That sounds like a very good price on the 5100.


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## SawTroll (Mar 30, 2011)

Chris J. said:


> I think you might be misreading the info others have posted on the Dolmar 5100S. I think that they are referring to the re-tuneing the dealer would do after you've ran X of tanks of fuel through it. To my knowledge (limited, I admit) the 5100S isn't a finicky saw that requires frequent adjustments. That sounds like a very good price on the 5100.



As I understand it, the problem was that Dolmar set them too lean from the factory (to pass EPA), and "someone" failed to inform the dealers that they had to readjust them _*before they are handed over to a costumer*_. The readjustment after run-in is normal for all saws.
I bought a tach when I bought the 5100S, and that was no coinsidense.....:msp_wink:


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## Chris J. (Mar 30, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> As I understand it, the problem was that Dolmar set them too lean from the factory (to pass EPA), and "someone" failed to inform the dealers that they had to readjust them _*before they are handed over to a costumer*_. The readjustment after run-in is normal for all saws.
> I bought a tach when I bought the 5100S, and that was no coinsidense.....:msp_wink:



Yes, I forgot to include the dealer adjustment before the saw leaves the shop. Other than the initial adjustment & readjustment after some break-in, I'm not aware of the 5100 being temperamental.


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## JustinM (Mar 30, 2011)

Chris J. said:


> I think you might be misreading the info others have posted on the Dolmar 5100S. I think that they are referring to the re-tuneing the dealer would do after you've ran X of tanks of fuel through it. To my knowledge (limited, I admit) the 5100S isn't a finicky saw that requires frequent adjustments. That sounds like a very good price on the 5100.


 
A bit of both, imho. 

The 5100 has gotten a bad rep because they often have been sent out the door not properly tuned (again, going back to too many "part time dolmar dealers" who actually specialize in other things, not chainsaws - this is no knock on the good dolmar dealers out there, because there are some great ones).


That said, ANY saw should be properly tuned from time to time, but due to the fact the 5100 runs hot (in part due to the speed and in part to the very limiting limiter caps) it can be problematic even if properly tuned by the dealer. My hypothesis (and ive shared it a few times on this board) is that the 5100 was in a very unique price point - a pro saw at roughly consumer grade stihl or husky price - and a lot of people who didnt know what they were doing bought this saw & burned them up. Its no coincidence that the average "help my dolmar just blew up" thread on this board was started by someone with less than 10 post count.


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## SawTroll (Mar 30, 2011)

Chris J. said:


> Yes, I forgot to include the dealer adjustment before the saw leaves the shop. Other than the initial adjustment & readjustment after some break-in, I'm not aware of the 5100 being temperamental.



I am not either.


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## nmurph (Mar 30, 2011)

Isn't one of the changes to the 5105 improved cooling? I don't remember the specifics.


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## Andyshine77 (Mar 31, 2011)

nmurph said:


> Isn't one of the changes to the 5105 improved cooling? I don't remember the specifics.


 
Yes that's one of the changes. The 5105 is pretty much a new saw that has the same plastic covers and so on. The top end, crank case and coil, is different on the 5105.

Sorry but many of the 5100 did have issues. Some were great runners, some were OK, some were weak and never ran right, many went boom. 

If you want the best overall 50cc saw look at the Husky 346/353, Stihl 261 and the Dolmar 5105. I'd stay away from the Efco saws.


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## Carl Anderson (Mar 31, 2011)

Ok, getting closer to a purchase. You all have been a HUGE help! 

The new short list:

Dolmar 510 - $387 total. Nice saw, especially for the price but sounds like not as nice as the 346xp. Skeptical of the leftover 5100, even at the reduced price of $398 total. Conflicting stories out there about its overheating issues. I don't need the saw to scream through wood, just cut well and reliably. 5105 too expensive, would buy the 346xp first.

Husky 346xp - $509 total. Seems to be the pick of the liter but still gagging a little on the price if I don't really need that much saw.

Husky 353 - Only $50 less than the 346xp right now so probably doesn’t make sense.

Neil and Brad, I truly appreciate your generous offers on the used saws you have. I have no doubt that they are great saws but now that my wife has talked me into spending a little more money I think I'm going to stick to a new saw with a warranty and dealer support that I can have in time to cut this weekend. Just my impatience and OCD kicking in, hope you don't take offense.


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## Storm56 (Mar 31, 2011)

Then your decision boils down to $130 difference between the Dolmar and Husky. $130 will buy you some extra chains and some safety gear. And trust that the 510 will do a good job for your requirements.


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## CJ-8_Jim (Mar 31, 2011)

What about unsold stock of Echo CS-510, 520 and 530?


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## SawTroll (Mar 31, 2011)

CJ-8_Jim said:


> What about unsold stock of Echo CS-510, 520 and 530?



Who cares - totally unintersting! :alien2:


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## Tazman1602 (Mar 31, 2011)

Buy one of the Husky's Carl, you will NOT be disappionted in either the 353 or 346XP even though I just picked up a new 346XP today and haven't had a chance to really cut with it yet. 

My 353 is four years old -- I did do a muffler mod to it and tuned it with a tach but it has given me all those years of service cutting 10-20 pole cords a year to heat the house and has never even sneezed at any wood I have put it into -- it ain't a half bad woods saw either..

Just an opinion from an old guy.............


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## Hedgerow (Mar 31, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> Who cares - totally unintersting! :alien2:


 
Ouch!:check:


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## Chris J. (Mar 31, 2011)

CJ-8_Jim said:


> What about unsold stock of Echo CS-510, 520 and 530?






SawTroll said:


> Who cares - totally unintersting! :alien2:




Niko, for how long did you run the above-mentioned Echos, & what exactly did you not like about them?

The CS-520 has received a lot of positive comments here, especially after a muffler mod & retune. A 520 top end will go on my fried CS-440 if I'm able to find one for a reasonable price.


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## Vibes (Mar 31, 2011)

i dont know anyhting about the efco other than i heard they are hard to get parts for. 


Do a search here on the Efco 152. Ask the guy how hard it is to get Efco parts. I think his reply will be he hasn't needed any after 300 plus tanks ran through it. Do another search on dealer issues and read the thread about the guy trying to get Husky parts. 

In this day and age parts should be at your fingertips and on your doorstep at the same rate your dealer can get them. What it is boiling down too is more and more dealers aren't stocking parts anymore. If you find one that does, then he should be your guy.

We had a right of way crew in our area last year that were using Red Max saws for all there ground work. I inquired about parts availability and the guy sorta mumbled, We just order them." The other guy said the saws were great. I thought that was odd choice of saw for commercial work.

If the price is good on the Efco's, and wife doesn't mind the price of new. I'd buy 2 of them if your worried about parts being available. It seems people say don't buy Efco and the reason is because they're not familiar with them.


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## Carl Anderson (Mar 31, 2011)

*The deed is done (finally), and the winner is....*

Husky 346XP, wooohooooo!

I decided for once in my life to buy the best instead of just the best value. The 346 might turn out to be the best value in the long run anyway. I liked the Dolmar, I really did but in the unlikely event that something did go wrong I would forever kick myself for saving $122 and not just getting the Husky. Besides, if the Dolmar guy down the street retires soon (or dies, he's pretty old) I'll have no local dealer support.

The Dolmar looked cool with those large dogs but they seemed a little big for a 50cc saw and might just get in the way and end up being removed or replaced with smaller ones. The Husky has one smaller dog which seems a better fit for the saw. Plus the Husky has compression release for easier starting. Not a huge deal on a small saw but still probably nice to have.

The only bad thing is that I was told the XP they had came with a 18" .325 pitch, 50 gauge, 72 link bar/chain but it had a 18"/.325/*58*/72 instead. Not a huge deal I guess because I can still throw my almost new Oregon Micro-Lite bar and Woodsman Pro chains on it if I want but eh, would have preferred to just have the Husqvarna bar in the 50 gauge. I was so excited to get the saw I just let it go but now I'm kinda wishing I asked if they would swap it out. Maybe I'll see if they will before I use it Saturday. Or am I better off with the 58 gauge? I kinda liked the 50 gauge when I switched the J-red 2050 over to it.

How are the stock bar/chains on the XPs compared to the Micro-Lite bar and Woodsman Pro Chains? A pro saw should have a decent stock bar and chain right?


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## porsche965 (Mar 31, 2011)

Congrats on your new saw. No matter what Brand, make sure your mix and fuel is right. 346 is a darn nice saw. But something tells me like you won't be done with just one new purchase. CAD is really contagious, either stay and plan for you next saw purchase, or escape NOW! LOL! 

You will really enjoy your 346.


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## Steelz (Mar 31, 2011)

Congrats on your 346XP. Nice choice for a saw. I was looking into that. But decided too go with the MS 261 20" B&C


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## sunfish (Mar 31, 2011)

*Congrats!*

Fine saw! You'll love it.

I run .058 on both my 346s and .050 on my 357. Both work fine.


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## SawTroll (Mar 31, 2011)

Carl Anderson said:


> Husky 346XP, wooohooooo!
> 
> ......
> 
> ...



Congrats on your choise! 

What I prefere on the 346xp is a 16" .58 bar with Oregon 21LP(X)/H21 chain - but a similar .50 combo will be equally good of course. I have Stihl 25RSC chain for the bar as well, but the Oregon performs (marginally) better in .325.


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## SawTroll (Mar 31, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> As I understand it, the problem was that Dolmar set them too lean from the factory (to pass EPA), and "someone" failed to inform the dealers that they had to readjust them _*before they are handed over to a costumer*_. The readjustment after run-in is normal for all saws.
> I bought a tach when I bought the 5100S, and that was no coinsidense.....:msp_wink:




Forgot to say, any _*good*_ dealer would check the carb setting before handing the saw out anyway, but I understand that Dolmar USA have had a lot of sub-standard dealers.....


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## Carl Anderson (Apr 1, 2011)

*Speaking of mix and fuel.....*



porsche965 said:


> Congrats on your new saw. No matter what Brand, *make sure your mix and fuel is right*. 346 is a darn nice saw. But something tells me like you won't be done with just one new purchase. CAD is really contagious, either stay and plan for you next saw purchase, or escape NOW! LOL!
> 
> You will really enjoy your 346.



My Husky dealer said to use the Husky XP synthetic blend for the first 2 1/2 gallons because it is better for breaking in the saw (he gave me a bottle of it). Then I can go back to the Stihl full synthetic I have been running in all of my 2 cycle stuff if I want. 

Sound right, wrong, no big difference? 

50:1 ok or should I back that off to 40:1 to be safe?

Also, what octane gas to run? I think the manual said at 89 but seems like most people say the higher the better to fight ethanol. I do use Star Tron enzyme additive for fighting the evil ethanol. 

Anyone have thoughts on Star Tron or other additives/methods to deal with ethanol?

I see the pre-mixed alcohol free gas/oil/stabilizer but holy smokes is that stuff expensive.


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## CentaurG2 (Apr 1, 2011)

Good little saw. You will like it. I was at a landscape show up in NH last week and I spoke to a husky rep about the 346xp. He said it was the hot selling saw for them. They were selling non-etech 346xp out the door for $428.24 with 18”B+C. He was also braggin up the new 540xp top handle but he did have one at the show. 

As far as mix, run 50:1 premium fuel with a good quality synthetic oil or semi synthetic. I would not hesitate to run husky xp, stihl ultra or amsoil saber pro in my saws. They all work fine and I have been running 10% ETOH for years with NO ill effects. No need for any “snakeoil” in the mix.


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## CJ-8_Jim (Apr 1, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> CJ-8_Jim said:
> 
> 
> > What about unsold stock of Echo CS-510, 520 and 530?
> ...



And that folks is an example of what happens when you live in a small country with lots of offshore oil to export. (Norwegian oil and gas exports accounted for approximately 50% of total exports).

Easy money leads to sloth. Your citizenry becomes mentally and socially inept and resigns itself to setting personal goals like maximizing one's avatar post count.

Tut tut.


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## SawTroll (Apr 1, 2011)

Carl Anderson said:


> My Husky dealer said to use the Husky XP synthetic blend for the first 2 1/2 gallons because it is better for breaking in the saw (he gave me a bottle of it). Then I can go back to the Stihl full synthetic I have been running in all of my 2 cycle stuff if I want.
> 
> Sound right, wrong, no big difference?
> 
> ........



Old mythology dies hard, even with dealers.....


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## SawTroll (Apr 1, 2011)

CJ-8_Jim said:


> And that folks is an example of what happens when you live in a small country with lots of offshore oil to export. (Norwegian oil and gas exports accounted for approximately 50% of total exports).
> 
> Easy money leads to sloth. Your citizenry becomes mentally and socially inept and resigns itself to setting personal goals like maximizing one's avatar post count.
> 
> Tut tut.





You made my day!:msp_smile:


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## JustinM (Apr 1, 2011)

CentaurG2 said:


> Good little saw. You will like it. I was at a landscape show up in NH last week and I spoke to a husky rep about the 346xp. He said it was the hot selling saw for them. They were selling non-etech 346xp out the door for $428.24 with 18”B+C.


 
Ugg. That makes me sick.

Up here my dealer sells the 346 with an 18" B&C for $864!!! 

My 5100 was $479. As much as I liked the husky product at the time, it was not much of a choice for me.


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## CentaurG2 (Apr 1, 2011)

Nothing wrong with a dolmar 5100. I purchased one several years back to replace the absolutely pathetic ms361 I own and I have never looked back. That little dolmar has worked its guts out for me and is just too stupid to die. Outfit it with 21lp and it cuts like a little red demon. Gets most of its work in an aerial bucket doing cut and drops too large for the ms200t. My 346xp(s) are used mostly on the ground for chipper support.

If it is any consolation, I did not purchase a saw at the show. I was looking for a 576 autotune and they did have one but they wanted $759. They did have 372xp (stratos) for $699 but I got plenty of the real deal on that model. Now that sweet Walker super B…..


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## Jere39 (Apr 1, 2011)

*Thanks*

Thanks to OP for starting this thread, and for everyone who commented, advised, and recommended. I was working through the same questions, and I decided on the Dolmar PS-510. I just picked it up today, and didn't do any sawing with it yet, but I did take it out to the first job it will have, cutting up some firewood oak that was taken down by a climber, and layed safely next to my tool shed. So, here it is, clean, virgin, and ready to cut. Maybe tomorrow.


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## LabJonsered (Apr 1, 2011)

Nice, congrats to both you guys on the great looking new saws.


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## Carl Anderson (Apr 2, 2011)

Hey Jere39, I was wondering yesterday how you made out and hopped on here today to ask. Glad to see you have a new addition to the family! It was tough for me to walk out of the Dolmar dealer because I liked that saw since last year. It was a close call and for the price I think you can't beat the 510. I just really liked the 346xp once I went to the dealer and saw it in person and got a feel for it and scraped up the extra money. If I ever have the need/money for another new 50cc saw (can you say CAD) the 510 will probably be an easy choice.

I'm really glad someone else was able to benefit from this thread and all the advice the experts gave us. Thanks to everyone who contributed!!! 

I brought my Husky in yesterday so they could swap out the .58 bar/chain for the .50 I wanted. This way all of the new spare chains (without the kickback stuff) and the new Oregon bar I bought for the saw this is replacing can go on this one. I'll get some pics today before I cut and after I do some cutting. Got a little snow yesterday but it looks nice out today, hoping to burn some brush and cut a bit (yes I have a burn permit  Too many nosey neighbors to go without one).

I cruised the stickies for advice on breaking in the new saw. Run it basically normal, don't be afraid to give it a workout but avoid running wide open with no load for the first couple of tanks of gas and avoid flush cutting stumps right away. High octane gas (92 or better) and good synthetic oil (full or blend) always.


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## sunfish (Apr 2, 2011)

Carl, just so you know. I was a bit disappointed with my *new* 346xp for the first few tanks of fuel (my old one was much stronger). The new one did get stronger as it broke in, but it was the 10th or 11th tank that did it. Now it's a screamin, cuttin saw!:msp_biggrin:


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## The Count (Apr 2, 2011)

sunfish said:


> Carl, just so you know. I was a bit disappointed with my *new* 346xp for the first few tanks of fuel (my old one was much stronger). The new one did get stronger as it broke in, but it was the 10th or 11th tank that did it. Now it's a screamin, cuttin saw!:msp_biggrin:


 
does this mean that you`ll stop saying that your OE runs better than the NE ?


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## The Count (Apr 2, 2011)

Andyshine77 said:


> Yes that's one of the changes. The 5105 is pretty much a new saw that has the same plastic covers and so on. The top end, crank case and coil, is different on the 5105.
> 
> Sorry but many of the 5100 did have issues. Some were great runners, some were OK, some were weak and never ran right, many went boom.
> 
> If you want the best overall 50cc saw look at the Husky 346/353, Stihl 261 and the Dolmar 5105. I'd stay away from the Efco saws.


 
the 261 may be the best saw ever but atm is too young to stand among giants.


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## sunfish (Apr 2, 2011)

The Count said:


> does this mean that you`ll stop saying that your OE runs better than the NE ?


 
I need to use it a bit more, but yes, I'm about ready to say the new 
one is as good as the old one.


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## The Count (Apr 2, 2011)

sunfish said:


> I need to use it a bit more, but yes, I'm about ready to say the new
> one is as good as the old one.


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## The Count (Apr 2, 2011)

sunfish said:


> I need to use it a bit more, but yes, I'm about ready to say the new
> one is as good as the old one.


 
man, your Sig says Stilh.
:monkey:


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## wyk (Apr 2, 2011)

Chris J. said:


> Niko, for how long did you run the above-mentioned Echos, & what exactly did you not like about them?
> 
> The CS-520 has received a lot of positive comments here, especially after a muffler mod & retune. A 520 top end will go on my fried CS-440 if I'm able to find one for a reasonable price.


 

Stock, the Echo CS-520 is a dog. It requires a muffler mod and retuning. Having messed with mine for a bit, I can see it is incredibly well made. Almost too well made - the muffler on this 520 weighs like the one on my 372xp. Does anyone make a nice cheap and tinny aftermarket one? 

The only issue I have with the MS250 is the AV mounts are not very strong. It is a rubber O-ring/boot affair affixed with a plastic plug where it meets the handle. I have had 2 fail on me, but I am hard on this saw.

Glad you got that new saw, Carl. You'll love it. Break it in, and when the warranty is done, MM it and re-tune it. I woulda jumped on nmurphs saw if I needed a new 50 - that was a nice deal. But, I got my Echo CS-520 for $100, so I can't hardly complain.


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## sunfish (Apr 2, 2011)

The Count said:


> man, your Sig says Stilh.
> :monkey:


 Now don't be talkin like that, man!


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## sunfish (Apr 2, 2011)

The Count said:


> man, your Sig says Stilh.
> :monkey:


 
Oh, I see what you mean. That's my string trimmer (weedeater). 
Dang fine machine too!


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## SawTroll (Apr 2, 2011)

The Count said:


> the 261 may be the best saw ever but atm is too young to stand among giants.


 
...and then there is weight, bulk and handling.....


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## Simonizer (Apr 2, 2011)

I still really like the MS260. Nice little machine.


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## The Count (Apr 2, 2011)

"Like" is personal, subjective therefor and should not be mocked or judged. I know a guy who likes the Soviet Drujba chainsaw and for him it is #1 ever.( he cuts coal with it. what? you never cut coal with yours?)


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## The Count (Apr 2, 2011)

sunfish said:


> Oh, I see what you mean. That's my string trimmer (weedeater).
> Dang fine machine too!


 
I have in use a Husqvarna lawn mower. great machine, I hate when the grass is very moist. gets stuck for I have a bag for the grass.
I even fertilize the grass with magnesium based complex. seems idiotic to fertilize the lawn. at my home I didn`t planted any seeds, instead cutting it regulate with a scythe and the weeds gradually fade away leaving only the well adapted grass that makes beautiful, tough, not pretentious lawn.\
cheers.


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## The Count (Apr 2, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> ...and then there is weight, bulk and handling.....


 
have you noticed how some men love women with big butts? some love them in spite of that and some just because of that ?
all those traits seem aphrodisiac for some. I can`t think of any other explanation; yet i`m only an apprentice.


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## homelitejim (Apr 2, 2011)

I really enjoy how the big heavy ones handle though they do tend to tire me out faster than a skinny light one.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange: We are still talking about chainsaws right.


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## SawTroll (Apr 2, 2011)

The Count said:


> have you noticed how some men love women with big butts? ........



Well, how could anyone like the MS441, unless they belong to that group of people....


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## wyk (Apr 2, 2011)

The Count said:


> "Like" is personal, subjective therefor and should not be mocked or judged. I know a guy who likes the Soviet Drujba chainsaw and for him it is #1 ever.( he cuts coal with it. what? you never cut coal with yours?)...
> 
> ...have you noticed how some men love women with big butts? some love them in spite of that and some just because of that ?
> all those traits seem aphrodisiac for some. I can`t think of any other explanation; yet i`m only an apprentice.


 
And on the bass....

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/iN42uzNFVmQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


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## Carl Anderson (Apr 2, 2011)

Love Spinal Tap! More importantly love my new saw! Had a crap load of brush to burn today so I didn't get to cut a ton but I got in enough time to be thrilled with it already. I wasn't going too hard on it yet, wanna give it some break in time but it is fast, light and a joy to use. So glad I got it, could not be happier!


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## MacLaren (Apr 2, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> Well, how could anyone like the MS441, unless they belong to that group of people....


 
hahahaha!! That was pretty good Niko!!:haha:


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## Carl Anderson (Apr 2, 2011)

BTW, SaludaRiver you said you had your shopping list narrowed down to the Husky 353 and Dolmar 510 I think. Around here the 353 is hard to find and costs almost as much as the 346xp so I kind of crossed that one off my list. If I were looking to spend less than the xp I would choose the 510 but that's not from personal experience, just research and bugging the fine chainsaw guys here relentlessly. Anyway, let us know what you decide and how you like it.

I'll be posting the pics of my new 346xp shortly.


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## bcorradi (Apr 3, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> Well, how could anyone like the MS441, unless they belong to that group of people....


Because the people that belong to that group actually use them instead of pushing paper specs.   When i grow up I hope I can be just like you and have a crystal ball in my a$$ and know how a saw feels and runs just by looking at the paper specs. It may be your MO, but it gets really old after a while.


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## bcorradi (Apr 3, 2011)

I've built and ran more saws in a week period than you have run in your life...and that is a fact not opinion.


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## mizzou (Apr 3, 2011)

sunfish said:


> Oh, I see what you mean. That's my string trimmer (weedeater).
> Dang fine machine too!


 
Agree 100%, I've had mine several years now and never an issue. I also started using stihl ultra then, all my 2-strokes have run better since, even the 2 old toro mowers.


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## Carl Anderson (Apr 3, 2011)

OK, finally got pics of the new saw. Still had the tag on it but I took that off and got cuttin' pretty quick.

View attachment 178580
View attachment 178581
View attachment 178582


I have a Stihl KM110 multi-tool trimmer too. Just got that last year after gettiing tired of burning through box store trimmers in a year or two of homeowner use. Like the trimmer, need to get the leaf blower and hedge trimmer attachments for it next.


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## Yoopermike (Apr 3, 2011)

wise choice on going orange!!!


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## Jere39 (Apr 3, 2011)

*Looks Great*

Carl, Looks like you are set for a career as a timberman. Congrats, great luck, saw safely.

Did you get the tool box/carry case with it?


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## Carl Anderson (Apr 3, 2011)

Unfortunately I had to buy the case separately. The saw was $20 off so the $40 case was not too bad. I never had a case for my old saw and it was a pain to keep track of the tools scattered around and getting bar oil leaked on the floor. I figured I spend that much on a new saw might as well get the case too. The powerbox isn't custom fit so I think just about any saw would fit in it.


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## Chris J. (Apr 3, 2011)

bcorradi said:


> Because the people that belong to that group actually use them instead of pushing paper specs.   When i grow up I hope I can be just like you and have a crystal ball in my a$$ and know how a saw feels and runs just by looking at the paper specs. It may be your MO, but it gets really old after a while.


 



bcorradi said:


> I've built and ran more saws in a week period than you have run in your life...and that is a fact not opinion.




Brad, tell us how you really feel, don't hold back .

We all know that Saw Troll does not consider having actually ran a particular model of saw a prerequisite for criticizing said saw model chatter: :chatter: :chatter. Yes, it does get old.


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## mizzou (Apr 3, 2011)

Nice saw Carl, sent some rep. Have fun.:msp_thumbup:


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## Carl Anderson (Apr 5, 2011)

TK POWER said:


> You're just having carburetor problems? Would a carburetor not be cheaper than a whole new saw or are you looking for an excuse to spend some cash? :msp_biggrin: If that's the case then go for the 353 or 346xp.


 
This is a very good point and I have considered it but I'm not positive it is just a carb issue. Yes, I did want a new saw anyway but I am going to try a carb rebuild/cleaning to try and save the old J-red as a backup saw or to sell.


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## Carl Anderson (Apr 6, 2011)

homelitejim said:


> Why not buy a slightly used pro saw at a fraction of the price? For $350-400 I would be looking at a nice 044 with 28" bar so I didn't have to bend over so much. I think you can also find the husky 346xp used in your price range or a good 026-260 stihl.Husqvarna 346XP Chainsaw - eBay (item 320676948578 end time Apr-02-11 17:39:03 PDT)


 
Wow, I went and checked this item to see what it went for. $455 for a used saw on ebay, not a super deal when I got a brand new one from a local shop for $480. Still, ebay and Craigslist are definitely worth checking for next time, just have to be careful to know your stuff and not to get sucked into a bidding war.


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## SawTroll (Apr 6, 2011)

Carl Anderson said:


> Unfortunately I had to buy the case separately. The saw was $20 off so the $40 case was not too bad. I never had a case for my old saw and it was a pain to keep track of the tools scattered around and getting bar oil leaked on the floor. I figured I spend that much on a new saw might as well get the case too. The powerbox isn't custom fit so I think just about any saw would fit in it.



I believe it fits a large number of saws, but not _any_ saw.

Personally I have never felt the need for a saws case, but I can easily see that it is nice in some situations. :msp_smile:


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## sunfish (Apr 6, 2011)

Carl Anderson said:


> Wow, I went and checked this item to see what it went for. $455 for a used saw on ebay, not a super deal when I got a brand new one from a local shop for $480. Still, ebay and Craigslist are definitely worth checking for next time, just have to be careful to know your stuff and not to get sucked into a bidding war.


 
Yep, I paid $475 for my new one. Used 346s' on ebay get mighty close to new price and I've watched new ones go for well over $500.:msp_scared:


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## Carl Anderson (Apr 7, 2011)

*





sawtroll said:



i believe it fits a large number of saws, but not any saw.

Click to expand...



Click to expand...

*


> personally i have never felt the need for a saws case, but i can easily see that it is nice in some situations. :msp_smile:



Good point, I should have said it probably fits most saws in this size range (50cc) but not all. Really big saws won't fit and if you have a full wrap around handle it probably won't fit either. There may even be some smaller saws that don't fit for some reason but if it fits it is a nice case.


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## The Count (Apr 8, 2011)

having a case is great; I`d love to have one; but if you go to a job with your saw in a case isn`t that similar with going with new gloves?


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## Carl Anderson (Apr 8, 2011)

> The Count said:
> 
> 
> > having a case is great; I`d love to have one; but if you go to a job with your saw in a case isn`t that similar with going with new gloves?



Maybe, except all of my gloves are old, oil soaked and well broken in (or otherwise half shredded) so doesn't that cancel out the having a case issue? :dunno:

I know, professional cutters don't use cases, but hey, I'm not a pro and to me the xp is an expensive tool that I'd rather not have stepped on, run over, dropped, etc if I can help it. I'll just have to step up and take the obligatory razzing for having a case. I can take it, I think.
:msp_razz:


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## Jere39 (Apr 8, 2011)

*In case?*

I'm right behind you determining whether I want a case or not. I don't need one here at home, but when I run out to my Dad's or to our cabin in the mountains, I'd rather have something to keep it more stable in the back of my pick-up. I like the square Husky box, room for some tools, hearing protection, glasses, gloves, oil, ...

On the other hand, I could wack together a couple of scrap boards into a box that would hold the stuff in the back of my truck. Post your experience with that nice orange box.


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## Chris J. (Apr 8, 2011)

Carl Anderson said:


> Maybe, except all of my gloves are old, oil soaked and well broken in (or otherwise half shredded) so doesn't that cancel out the having a case issue? :dunno:
> 
> I know, professional cutters don't use cases, but hey, I'm not a pro and to me the xp is an expensive tool that I'd rather not have stepped on, run over, dropped, etc if I can help it. I'll just have to step up and take the obligatory razzing for having a case. I can take it, I think.
> :msp_razz:




There's nothing wrong with wanting to keep your new saw as nice as possible. My new-to-me MS361 looks like it got bounced around a lot, but has few of the tell-tale signs that it was used much.


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## Jere39 (Apr 9, 2011)

*Dolmar review after 5 tanks*

We are getting more than our share of our April showers, but I've cleaned up my oak firewood, and "delivered" a cord of un-split red oak to a down hill neighbor by rolling it down the hill to his backyard leanto. Easiest delivery ever. If I wasn't recovering my costs on the saw, I might have given a discount.


Then headed out to my Dad's place where he cuts black locust for firewood. He saved a bunch of stumps, and the big ends of several blow downs he couldn't cut with his saw. Still only five tanks of gas, but saw has been everything I wanted. Thanks again for all the advice.


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## Vibes (Apr 10, 2011)

Maybe, except all of my gloves are old, oil soaked and well broken in (or otherwise half shredded) so doesn't that cancel out the having a case issue? 

I just duct taped the fingertips of all my gloves. LOL. Can't get rid of them till the palm wheres through.


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## Chris J. (Apr 10, 2011)

Stephen C. said:


> I got the big brand new Husky box on Craigs List for $15. It is the only box I could find that was large enough for my Poulan 330. The only downside is that people will see it and think it is worth stealing! (of course it is a great saw but it does not have the market value of a 357 or 372XP) The crack addicts would be dissapointed when they open the box. :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


 
:arg: 
On a guitar forum I suggested that folks should use common beat-up cases for their nice guitars and use nice cases with the Big Brand Name on them for their less valuable guitars.


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## evan454 (Apr 22, 2011)

*does 2-stroke oil quality matter. stihl hp ultra vs. dolmar synthetic*

bought 6 pack of stihl hp ultra oil today for my Dolmar 5105. read the oil label and it says it is JASO FB and API TC/TC+ Ceritifications. the Dolmar meets or exceeds JASO FD and ISO EGD. My manual says if not using Dolmar oil to use synthetic with a quality rating of JASO FC or ISO EGD or better. did i make a mistake by buying the stihl oil for my saw? already opened and mixed 1 bottle so i cant return it now.. ive heard great things about the stihl oil, thats why i bought it.


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## oscar4883 (Apr 22, 2011)

You will be fine with the Ultra at 50 to 1.


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