# Northern Red Oak problems



## bouchardpie (Sep 10, 2008)

Hi,
I'm in York ME and wondering if anyone can identify what's happening with my Northern Red Oaks. See pictures attached:

As you can see - tree is in considerable distress. Loosing leaves and branches are clearly dying. About 1/4 of the trees on my lot look like this (with some being completely defoliated.)

Thanks for any help on this.

-PB


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## NYCHA FORESTER (Sep 10, 2008)

You yard looks rather new.... is that sod?


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## Urban Forester (Sep 10, 2008)

Were the trees there before the house and driveway? If so, what is the time lag? Oaks are very sensitive to soil compaction in their root zones as a result of construction. This decline looks as if this is a possibilty...


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## bouchardpie (Sep 10, 2008)

*Thanks for all the replies*

Yes the lawn is new - we have been in the house about a year and the previous owner of the house ran a Turf company. He manages grass at golf courses. He put this lawn in about 3-4 years ago. 

Although there is an underground irrigation system, I have only been using it about 2 weeks, given the amount of rain we've had this season. Apparently many trees were removed to put this lawn in.

Given all of these conditions - is there anything I can do to help reverse the damage to the trees?

-PB


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## treeseer (Sep 10, 2008)

bouchardpie said:


> He put this lawn in about 3-4 years ago.
> Although there is an underground irrigation system,...is there anything I can do to help reverse the damage to the trees?



1. get a diagram of where the irrigation lines are. That is where tree roots were cut.

2. Focus on restoring healthy soil between the lines and the trunks, where roots are still functioning.

3. Tell the former owner to please stop killing trees.

4. the bleeding lesions look like phytophthora; google phosphite


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## Urban Forester (Sep 11, 2008)

It never ceases to amaze me the value that some people (NOT the current homeowner) put on grass. The choice between a "nice" lawn and 60ft. Oaks is a "no brainer" to me. 

You may also want to google 'vertical mulching' to help relieve some of the compaction. I would recommend radial trenching but that's a rather invasive procedure and would probably result in lawn replacement. The road to recovery for these trees will probably be a long, slow process. The first step would be to get a qualified arborist out there ASAP to do a tree health evaluation and to determine a course of action that you can afford. Luckily, with advances in arborcultural care, nowadays there are quite a few options available for stressed trees like these. Good luck!


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## Ed Roland (Sep 11, 2008)

treeseer said:


> 4. the bleeding lesions look like phytophthora; google phosphite



I agree. Have a certified arborist out to collect a viable sample for pathology. Once the causal is identified treatment can be recommended.


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## S Mc (Sep 15, 2008)

I googled phosphite and it has some interesting testamonials for treatment or control of phytophthora. Do any of you have specific experience with it? Which species of phytophthora is it most effective on? What is the prognosis for the tree, does it depend on how far advanced the disease is and how do we determine that?

Thanks,

Sylvia


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## Ed Roland (Sep 15, 2008)

I use SUBDUE and AGRI-FOS to suppress root rot caused by Phytophthora. Of course its just a band aid on a sucking chest wound if the soils ability to drain is not improved.

*Application timing*: first app. in late winter or early spring. A second is recommended in mid-summer. Alternating AGRI-FOS and SUBDUE is best. AGRI-FOS can be used as a foliar spray treatment to suppress root disease. Foliar app should only be done June through August.

*Application frequency*: 2 consecutive years of treatment should provide adequate protection. Repeat treatments should be made when rainfall is excessive.

*Agri-Fos for bleeding canker*: mix 2 qts with 2 qts water plus 3 oz Pentra-Bark. Apply with a low pressure sprayer. Treat during growing season when disease is first detected. 

Consider treating high value trees that are susceptible to this disease (mature european beech) preventatively.

Look for areas of the canopy that have flamed out. Check the roots. The subcutaneous layer slipping off easily is an indication. Send viable sample to pathology. I have had good/moderate success treating for this disease with these chemicals.


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## treeseer (Sep 15, 2008)




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## S Mc (Sep 16, 2008)

Woodweasel, THANK you for the information. I feel that I am finally starting to get a grasp on this "infamous genus of plant-parasitic oomycetes" (quoted from Sinclair's SECOND edition) and the options available.

Sylvia


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## Urban Forester (Sep 16, 2008)

S Mc said:


> ..."infamous genus of plant-parasitic oomycetes"
> Sylvia



Were'nt they in one of Steven King's books?


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## S Mc (Sep 17, 2008)

Urban Forester said:


> Were'nt they in one of Steven King's books?


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