# Opinions on rope for flipline / lanyard



## Dadatwins (Jul 25, 2004)

Looking for some opinions on type of rope for flipline/ lanyard. I have used 5/8 three strand clipped on one end run through a hip prusik on the other in the past and was happy with it. Switched to beranek braided, same hip prusik setup with 9/16" braided but I was not so crazy about it, rope was tight when new but softened to quickly and locked in prusik and did not wear as well as three strand in my opinion. Not looking for wirecore and no gibbs, I like the hip prusik setup but looking for opinions of what rope to put through it. I am using 1/2" three strand for prusik. 
Thanks.


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## Tom Dunlap (Jul 25, 2004)

Half inch or 7/16" static line is great. Super strong and light weight. Add an adjusting knot tied directly to your d-ring and use the d-ring as the slack tender. Cheap and really functional. Just about all of the climbers at work have converted to this system once they see it.

Tom


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## BigJohn (Jul 25, 2004)

Im with you Brian a lanyard won't make you a better climber. Want to be a better climber go pruneing without one. I just use fly that I tie to a bulldog with a fishermans knot and connect it with VT to saddle. 

For some big removals I have a long fly about 20 or more feet atatched to a gri gri. 

I guess the static line looks cool and bit lighter.


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## SteveBullman (Jul 25, 2004)

> _Originally posted by BigJohn _
> *Im with you Brian a lanyard won't make you a better climber. Want to be a better climber go pruneing without one. I just use fly that I tie to a bulldog with a fishermans knot and connect it with VT to saddle.
> 
> For some big removals I have a long fly about 20 or more feet atatched to a gri gri.
> ...


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## SteveBullman (Jul 25, 2004)

> _Originally posted by BigJohn _
> *Im with you Brian a lanyard won't make you a better climber. *



i'd have to disagree with you there. i've converted a few people in the past to using a descent flipline and their speed has improved immediately.


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## SteveBullman (Jul 25, 2004)

whilst we're on the subject of lanyards, i was messing round the other day with a double ended line with a prussik in the middle. which was fine, but i missed not being able to slack tend one-handed.
anyone come up with a way of being able to slack tend from both directions?
also what methods do you guys use for tidying up the excess slack in your flipline when not using it.


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## John Stewart (Jul 25, 2004)

Hey
I agree with Rocky but I would use a different color so you dont confuse the two
I like to know at a glance what rope is doing what
As for mechanical or friction knot for attachment I have both systems on different saddles
Use the micro assender if it is mechanical cause it adjusts easier than the others
Use a not like the Knut for a rope attachment as it will self adjust with out a micro pulley or biner behind it
Keep it simple 
Later
John


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## SteveBullman (Jul 25, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Tom Dunlap _
> *Half inch or 7/16" static line is great. Super strong and light weight. Add an adjusting knot tied directly to your d-ring and use the d-ring as the slack tender. Cheap and really functional. Just about all of the climbers at work have converted to this system once they see it.
> 
> Tom *



what knot you using them tom


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## Dadatwins (Jul 25, 2004)

> _Originally posted by RockyJSquirrel _
> *I have never understood the need so many climbers have to buy a unique rope for their lanyard instead of just using the arborist rope they already own. If a rope is good enough to be your lifeline, why is it not good enough for a lanyard? Back when I was still using 'old school' methods, I used a 3-strand lanyard with the locking steel clips. Now I just use a piece of rope cut off a retired lifeline.
> 
> Heck, you can spend $150 or more on a fancy lanyard if you want, Sherrill will sell you one. It still won't make you a better climber though. *



I use true blue for climbing, and would love to use it for laynard but it can not be spliced it into an end for a laynard clip. And no, I do not want to spend $150.00 on a custom made setup from sherrill's although I think even with their top of the line snaps/biners it would be hard to get to that point. I am only looking for opinion on some different rope choices since there are a lot of new ropes on the market and was hoping some had tried them out and had an opinion. I did a search on site and found a lot of the posts on this topic were a year or two old so I figured I would bring this up again and see if any new thoughts were around.


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## John Stewart (Jul 25, 2004)

Ok
Dont use the Fly because is snags and picks to easy!
High V works great
True Blue gums up and stays that way more so than High V
I havent tried washing my old True Blue because the dude a the laundrymat would freak out when he heard my steel snap smashing around 
John


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## SteveBullman (Jul 25, 2004)

> _Originally posted by John Stewart _
> *Ok
> Dont use the Fly because is snags and picks to easy!
> High V works great
> *



all ropes pick to some extent. but as i see it with the fly being kermantle, all its strength is in its core so it matters less if this rope picks than a standard climbing rope


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## rumination (Jul 25, 2004)

I used to use three strand for a lanyard, because I liked its durability and stiffness. However, I recently started using 16 strand climbing line, and have decided that I like it better. There's no need to buy a lanyard when you can make your own. Short bits of new rope can be bought cheaply, if you don't have any lying around.

For instance, I bought 50' of Safety Blue Hi-V for 20 bucks from this fellow:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=11896&item=3828917135&rd=1


That's enought rope for at least two or three lanyards, depending how long you like them. Then all you need is some prusik cord and a rope snap/carabiner and you're set.


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## John Stewart (Jul 25, 2004)

Ya good point!
It just pisses me off when I see it like that
You know it is important lookin fine at 100 ft and shabby equipment brings down your corperate image! 
John


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## SteveBullman (Jul 25, 2004)

i know what you mean, when i first got my nice bright fly rope and it started getting picks on my first climb i was gutted.


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## MasterBlaster (Jul 25, 2004)

> _Originally posted by John Stewart _
> * when he heard my steel snap smashing around
> John *



When I wash my rope with the snap still on, I snap it to a couple beltloops on a pair of jeans. No problems, mate.


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## lync (Jul 25, 2004)

*flipline*

15 ft piece of climbing line double fishermans loop to a steel safety snap. VT on the left hip 8mm accessory cord/micro pully/beaner. So cheap you can throw it away if it gets sapped out.


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## BigJohn (Jul 25, 2004)

How is that you can be faster when your tied to the tree? You can't go far can ya? I couldn't see wanting to stay in one spot that long. What does one do that long in one spot take break? Thats not fair to everyone else working. We all like to break and lunch at the same time during the day. 

Lanyards are for tieing in and working down a pole and competition.


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## jkrueger (Jul 25, 2004)

> _Originally posted by BigJohn _
> *How is that you can be faster when your tied to the tree? You can't go far can ya? I couldn't see wanting to stay in one spot that long. What does one do that long in one spot take break? Thats not fair to everyone else working. We all like to break and lunch at the same time during the day.
> 
> Lanyards are for tieing in and working down a pole and competition. *



John,

Sometimes it is good to have another point to be steady, a strong work position, for chain saw, or man handling a branch, especially way out on a branch.

Think, I've even seen you do that.???

Jack


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## BigJohn (Jul 25, 2004)

Shhhhh..............don't give away the secrets.


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## MasterBlaster (Jul 25, 2004)

I can't imagine tossing my lanyard because it got sappy. I would just wash it that night.


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## Tom Dunlap (Jul 25, 2004)

Well boys, I DO climb on static line so I have plenty to use. A while ago I used the Tibloc for a couple of days and it picked the KMIII I was using in too many places. That leaves me with lots of short pieces of good rope between the nibbles.

Since static line is a bit stiffer than arbo rope it flips up limbs better [in my experience]. Since it's a different color it makes it VERY easy to ID. What's the criticism of using lighter weight gear?

Looking good is important though  But it isn't a priority at the top of the list. 

I use a Distel for the adjuster. Slip the lanyard rope through the d-ring and then tie your friction-hitch-of-choice onto the rope. Secure the FHOC to the d-ring using a sliding double-fisherman's hitch/knot [or whatever name you choose to use for this termination] If you have large dees on your saddle you will find that if you pull straight back the FH will invert. You have to pull out, away to the side or bend the lanyard rope and pull it away from you. This setup is much safer [in my opinion] because it only requires one piece of gear. 

Steve,

The Fly is not really a kernmantle rope in the sense of static or mountaineering rope. The construction is actually between a double-braid and kernmantle. It would lean a bit closer to a kernmantle.

One way to tidy up your lanyard is to attach a small cord to the end of the lanyard and then tie it off to the belt slot on your d-ring. That keeps the tail from dragging around. Some climbers that use a long lanyard will daisy-chain the extra length.

Having a functional lanyard will generally speed up climbing. Too often the main tie in point doesn't support the climber in the best position. Using a lanyardwill support the climber better.

Is still am amazed at how much slamming goes on when someone uses a technique that is only different. Promoting a technique that is unsafe might warrant some civil discussion.

Tom


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## NickfromWI (Jul 25, 2004)

Dada, I will be repeating some of what's been said already. I agree with Rocky that climbing line makes a great flipline, and I agree with John that you should use something that is different color from your climbing line. 

Call up sherrill and order some of Yale's Fire line. They might give you 15 feet of it. It is just a 16 strand, but in super bright colors! Makes a good flipline, very easy to see.

love
nick


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## MasterBlaster (Jul 25, 2004)

I prefer to use what I use for my lighter rigging bullrope as a lanyard.

Nick, I assume you can splice Stable Braid?


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## NickfromWI (Jul 25, 2004)

Stable braid is just a standard double braid splice...easy and fun! Don't try to get me to splice it if it's used, though! Can be done, but not worth the time 

love
nick


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jul 25, 2004)

I too am a fan of using good sections of retired climbing line for a lanyard.

Brian, are those nicks from moving the chainsaw around an a spar? That's how I usually do it thees days, get a tooth caught on a yarn and don't know it till too late.


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## MasterBlaster (Jul 25, 2004)

> _Originally posted by NickfromWI _
> *Stable braid is just a standard double braid splice...easy and fun! Don't try to get me to splice it if it's used, though! Can be done, but not worth the time
> 
> love
> nick *



Nah, I'll send ya new.

Where's mah splittails???


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## rahtreelimbs (Jul 25, 2004)

For me I use whatever I have on hand that is good ( except 3 strand ). Currently I have been using Safety Blue Hi-Vee. I use a 15 ft. lanyard with a VT made from inexpensive Sta-Set. As for the excess I take a bite of the excess and do a sort of bouble daisy chain. I did have a DEDA setup that I was using but never found a use for it, the standard lanyard was good enough. 


Maybe some day I will be good enough not to need a lanyard while pruning! It does have its place though when needed!


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## Nathan Wreyford (Jul 26, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Tom Dunlap _
> *Half inch or 7/16" static line is great. Super strong and light weight. Add an adjusting knot tied directly to your d-ring and use the d-ring as the slack tender. Cheap and really functional. Just about all of the climbers at work have converted to this system once they see it.
> 
> Tom *



Best solution bar none. I'll never go back. Why would you carry a thick rope, a biner, and pullery if you didn't have to??


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## TreeJunkie (Jul 26, 2004)

I assure you it isn't hard to spend 100-150 on a lanyard setup. We have this new guy working for us. Showed up w/ all of his own, brand new gear. lanyard consists of 10' fly, w/ double spliced eyes, snap, microscender, and twisted clevis. Add it all up and you have: (28*2)+(10)+(55)+(16)=137 bucks, not including shipping... So I guess you can spend ???? near 150.00

Anyway, I'm w/ tom's setup 8' of 11mm, red snap hook, attached w/ buntline, tied to the side d ring w/ knut knot, using the side d to tend the lanyard, one handed,simple and cheap... I put my grillon away for this set up... There is no need for fancy mechanical ascenders for a lanyard. All in all i think my lanyard cost me less than 20 bucks. More money to spend on other things.

I choose not to use climbing line b/c it's a little softer and doesn't run as smoothly as the static line. The stiffness can really help you w/ flipping, and I like it being an easily recognizable rope/easy to differentiate between this and my life line.


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## SteveBullman (Jul 26, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Tom Dunlap _
> *
> 
> One way to tidy up your lanyard is to attach a small cord to the end of the lanyard and then tie it off to the belt slot on your d-ring. That keeps the tail from dragging around. Some climbers that use a long lanyard will daisy-chain the extra length.
> ...



tried your set up today, was surprised how easy it slack tends without a pulley. as for your suggestion above, doesn't this just cause a loop that snags on everything in sight?


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## Nathan Wreyford (Jul 26, 2004)

I have found it really doesn't snag. Try it. Plus I think it is a better safety than a knot in the end of the rope.

.02


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## SteveBullman (Jul 26, 2004)

what length strop do you use then nathan, mines 10ft


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## Nathan Wreyford (Jul 26, 2004)

About 12ft. I'll get a pic. Would be neat if everyone did


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## Ax-man (Jul 27, 2004)

I must be missing the boat some where along the line when it comes to tying the hitch adjuster to the D rings. I tried that set-up with some Sta-Set and small dia. Stable Braid using a Distel on NE HI -V. I went back to the pulley carabiner combo, this works smoother and easier to me than the D ring thing. I'm also using a Pinncle saddle with the  over sized D rings, maybe that has a little something to do with it, I dunno.

I must be the lone soul member of DEDA club now. I wouldn't go up without it any more. I found a use for that second adjuster that I never would have thought of, when trimming or doing a small removal you can lasso a small limb and suck it in toward you, then cut it with the hand saw or prune some deadwood, instead of reaching out for it, brings the work in closer toward you.

Larry


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## Tom Dunlap (Jul 27, 2004)

Larry,

You watch for new members at the front door, I'll watch the windows and the back door. Everyone is welcome into the DEDA club. I used mine this afternoon to get into a small silver maple. I can't think of a better way to enter trees that have climbable limbs. The tree was too small and easy to climb to use a throwline. 

The medium sized d-rings on some saddles allows the friction hitch to bunch or choke in the ring if you pull the rope straight back. Think of straight out to your side as nine o'clock and away from your belly button is noon. With medium and large d-rings you need to tail slack in the 9:30 to 11 time frame. Another suggestion might be to use a hitch cord that is a little larger in diameter. Look at how you have the crossover exiting. Sometimes you can tie the hitch on the "bottom" to get it to be more fair.

Tom


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