# 49sp Jonsereds chainsaw



## Bigwheel (Sep 15, 2003)

Hello, I just recently picked up a Jonsereds model 49sp, serial # 132716 chainsaw at a garage sale for $10.00, and know little about this brand of saw except they are suppose to be a good brand. The saw is very clean, great compression, gas is not soured, but it won't fire. There is no spark, so I am getting ready to tear into it, and check & clean the points (I guess it uses points and not an electronic ignition module). The bar is not original, and is a 16" Oregon that appears to have had little use. Hopefully somebody can tell me approx. the age, & also if a 16" bar was the size they came with. Any information i greatly appreciated. Thanks, Lee


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## glens (Sep 15, 2003)

Hi and welcome.&nbsp; There is a chainsaw collector's site which has <a href="http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/084bb064dcc6912b88256b69007e2ffa?OpenDocument">this</a> page about that saw.&nbsp; That's about all I can help you with but I'm sure others will be along shortly.

Glen


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## sedanman (Sep 16, 2003)

Before you rip into it very far, unplug the kill switch, I'll bet it has spark. A lot of people store their equipment with the switch in the off (closed) position, the contacts can "weld" themselves together. The 49SP has points which are nearly impossible to get replacements for. This saw came with either a 16 or 18 inch bar. 
I like a 16 inch bar with .325 round ground chisel chain on my 49SP's.


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## Tony Snyder (Sep 17, 2003)

49SPs were standouts on power to weight in the early 80s. I sold a few. I believe the ones I had ahd 16 inch bars with .325 pitch. They seemed to be similair to Partners P500s, but my memory is fuzzy on that.


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## Bigwheel (Sep 18, 2003)

*Got my 49 sp going, thanks to all!*

Thanks to the ones who repsonded with the good information about my latest find, my Jonsereds 49sp. I had been told by an individual that it had a solid state ignition. Thanks again Paul (sedanman), for steering me in the proper direction, & telling me to check the points. He was correct, it was nothing more than a set of dirty points that needed cleaning.


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## Oregon_Rob (Sep 18, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Bigwheel _
> *Hello, I just recently picked up a Jonsereds model 49sp, serial # 132716 chainsaw at a garage sale for $10.00, *



Dirty points! Dirty Points! I think this now is a clear case of theft and I am going to have to go cry in my beer! You just used up a ten year supply of scroungers luck in one garage sale.


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## max2cam (Sep 18, 2003)

Back in the early 1980s I watched an old guy use a Jonsered 49 with a lumber maker attachment mill enough aspen logs (popple) to build a BIG log house. The saw was already well used but it still had lots of life. Back then I was using a Homelite 150AO and the Jons. 49 seemed like a REAL saw compared to the little toy I had.

Seems to me back then Jonsered was the BIG name in chainsaws, at least here in Wisconsin. Now you hardly hear of them...


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## Bigwheel (Sep 18, 2003)

What a wealth of knowledge I am getting here! For one thing, I have learned to keep my trusty point file handy, and second of all, I am going to have to get up earlier for the garage sales. 
Hey Max2cam, I like your story about the big house that was built from lumber cut by a Jonsered. Pretty neat, thanks for sharing!


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## 820wards (Jan 11, 2008)

*Jonsered 49sp Saw On Craigs List*

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/527128468.html

Saw this saw on Craig's list tonight going for $120 or BO.

Just letting you all know.

jerry-


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## tjhochha (Nov 9, 2010)

*free 49sp Jonsereds chainsaw*

My dad just found one of these on the side of the road with a sign on it "free, runs, needs tune-up" he gave it to me to check out. and let me say. it needed a heck of a lot more than just a tune up. It had sat for who knows how long and i couldn't get the thing to even turn over. I finally figured out how to crack the case and the whole inside of the crank case had corroded. All the steel parts were fine but the magnesium had corroded and flaked off into a sand like substance. I'm glad it wouldn't turn over or it would have ruined it. I cleaned up all the corrosion i could find and got it back together. now i don't have any spark. I broke the wire to the kill switch so it's not a bad switch but i'll check the points Wednesday. 
I'm glad i found this cite. I'd never seen points on a 2-stroke before so i didn't know what to do next. hopefully I will soon have an nice running chainsaw.:chainsawguy:


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## Cantdog (Nov 9, 2010)

Welcome to the site. As was said (much) earlier the points are NLA for the 49sp so if yours have any life left be careful filing them so as not to remove any more of the depth of the contact than needed to make a nice, even, square mating surface on both contacts. These should be set at 0.014-0.016" when fully open.

On another note these work ok with one of the $15-$20 points elimination modules sold just about everywhere. I have one 49 with this set up and it starts and runs good. Sounds a tiny bit different running than all the others with points. Not sure why but you would probably not even notice unless directly comparing them running at the same time. Good luck with your project as you can probably tell I kinda like those little guys!!! Good saw.


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## MadMax5578 (Nov 9, 2010)

Cantdog said:


> On another note these work ok with one of the $15-$20 points elimination modules sold just about everywhere. I have one 49 with this set up and it starts and runs good. Sounds a tiny bit different running than all the others with points. Not sure why but you would probably not even notice unless directly comparing them running at the same time. Good luck with your project as you can probably tell I kinda like those little guys!!! Good saw.


Where would one find those modules??


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## Cantdog (Nov 9, 2010)

MadMax5578 said:


> Where would one find those modules??



Napa or most any small engine shop. Marketed under brand name Atom and others as a "points elimination module". I am sure Lawnmowertech37 (site sponsor) at CM Small Engine has them and Calvin could probably use the business.


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## PB (Nov 9, 2010)

Hey Cantdog, didn't Spike or someone mention that Tilton has all the old ignition parts in their catalog?


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## spike60 (Nov 9, 2010)

PB said:


> Hey Cantdog, didn't Spike or someone mention that Tilton has all the old ignition parts in their catalog?




Not that many left, and nothing for the 49SP. Best bet is to go with one of those Atom things, and skip the points.


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## PB (Nov 9, 2010)

spike60 said:


> Not that many left, and nothing for the 49SP. Best bet is to go with one of those Atom things, and skip the points.



Gotcha. I was actually looking for the post i was thinking of and got ignitions confused with carbs.


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## kr5258 (Nov 9, 2010)

*Back from the dead...*

Funny that you resurrected this old thread. I just finished getting a 49SP dumpster find running, just waiting on a bar and chain now. Here's the proof:


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## Cantdog (Nov 9, 2010)

Nice looking 49SP!!!! Good dumpster find Indeed!!! Like Bob said 49SP points are NLA, which is understandable as these were only made for the 49SP while other points sets were made for a variety of saws and are still available from Tiltons. ( I believe) These included the 52, 621, 80, 90 and others.


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## Cantdog (Nov 9, 2010)

spike60 said:


> Not that many left, and nothing for the 49SP. Best bet is to go with one of those Atom things, and skip the points.




LOLOLOL!! Unless someone has a batch of used but in excellent condition sets...LOLOL!!!! Really if you have a set of these point in good shape they will out last the saw. Funny but true!!! LOL!!! These are NOT high maintenance things as a rule.


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## sirbumpy (Feb 7, 2011)

*thanks mates*

my 49SP was returned from a local mower shop with the message that "it can't be properly tuned.... the bearings are likely to have worn the casing and it's letting in air"...... well they got it part right.... there was air getting in.... but tightening the cylinder head bolts the exhaust manifold and carby manifold got my lil baby purring like a kitten.......

always loved that saw.... after reading this thread.... now I know why


thanks again


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## Cantdog (Feb 7, 2011)

Yep that's something to keep track of on some of the older Jonsereds...the cyl base bolts will get loose after a time. Funny too as the gasket on those is real thin and you wouldn't think it would compress enough to allow for loose bolts. One of my nicest 621s came to me as a parts saw with a few pieces missing...when I looked into it I found the reason it was canned was loose cyl bolts and a blown cyl base gasket. The saw had very, very few hours on it. It is now my best running, nicest looking 621....except I am now a bout to start building another 621 completely from NOS parts....still missing a couple parts but have all the big stuff, P&C, carb, oil pump, cases, clutch and recoil covers and handles etc.


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## Chris J. (Feb 7, 2011)

Welcome to AS! Glad to another Jred back in action, rep to you.



sirbumpy said:


> my 49SP was returned from a local mower shop with the message that "it can't be properly tuned.... the bearings are likely to have worn the casing and it's letting in air"...... well they got it part right.... there was air getting in.... but tightening the cylinder head bolts the exhaust manifold and carby manifold got my lil baby purring like a kitten.......
> 
> always loved that saw.... after reading this thread.... now I know why
> 
> ...


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## MikJank (Feb 21, 2011)

*Beautiful 49SP*

49sp looks just fine.

I have a question,
Does anyone of you know dimensions of the crankshaft bearings or what’s the European mark equivalent for those bearings.
Let me explain,
I’ve got 49sp totally disassembled and owner said that originally it had a spark (electric) problem. In one of the shops they told him the crankshaft bearings were worn and both needs to be replaced, but he was not able to find new ones. That is why the chain saw was laying in the box disassembled for a long time. Meanwhile he lost the original bearings and the only trace he could find was a piece of paper where he allegedly wrote what was written on the bearings “DD 38069 TORRINGTON USA”. I was not able to find anything useful on the net so I’m asking you to help me.
When I said European mark, I mean, as an example, “6202ZZ” mark on my Husky 51 bearings.
This is my first post on this site so I’m sorry if I’m not using appropriate terminology.


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## Chris J. (Feb 21, 2011)

I have no idea about the bearings size, but maybe bumping this to page one will bring a reply from someone who does know.


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## Scooterbum (Feb 21, 2011)

Ball Bearings:Miniature bearings:Ceramic Bearings:Bearing
Contact this company, they've helped me with some odd ball stuff.


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## lfnh (Feb 21, 2011)

online ipl http://www.wmv-dresden-download.de/jonsered/49_sp_bj82-08_kettensaege.pdf


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## lfnh (Feb 22, 2011)

fwiw,

Jred 52E have same crank bearing part numbers 4230008 as 49sp {50}4230008


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## Cantdog (Feb 28, 2011)

MikJank said:


> 49sp looks just fine.
> 
> I have a question,
> Does anyone of you know dimensions of the crankshaft bearings or what’s the European mark equivalent for those bearings.
> ...



The original bearings on most (if not all) 49SPs and 52/52Es etc were SKF 6002 C3 you should be able to take that info to any bearing supply outlet and either get the exact SKF bearings or equivilant..Do not buy the cheapest..I generaly ask for the best quality available. Cost is minimal between high quality and low for a pair of bearings considering the work involved to get to them.


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## Cantdog (Mar 1, 2011)

Oh sorry...the dimensions are 15 X 32 X 9.. 15MM ID....32MM OD...9MM DEEP/THICK


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## MikJank (Mar 18, 2011)

*Bravo!!!*

Cantdog,

Thank you very much, that was information I was looking for.

I wish you all the best.


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## Cantdog (Mar 18, 2011)

MikJank said:


> Cantdog,
> 
> Thank you very much, that was information I was looking for.
> 
> I wish you all the best.




LOL!!! Glad to be of service!!!  Good luck and keep that 49SP running!!!


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## fullclip (Aug 27, 2011)

Thanks to this site I just picked up a good deal. I found a Jonsered 49 on craigslist. Due to a google search I found this thread and got all this info I needed to hear. This is my first saw and after a new plug, carb kit and some fresh gas this saw runs better than Ive ever used/borrowed.


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## Cantdog (Aug 28, 2011)

fullclip said:


> Thanks to this site I just picked up a good deal. I found a Jonsered 49 on craigslist. Due to a google search I found this thread and got all this info I needed to hear. This is my first saw and after a new plug, carb kit and some fresh gas this saw runs better than Ive ever used/borrowed.




Welcome to the site.......That is a dandy looking 49SP...good first post...good first saw...all good!!! It looks to be a real low hr example...nice!!!! Take good care of it especially the piston....hard to come by. If it starts to act wierd/different stop and find out why. It can only be a couple different things and pretty much easy to work on. On a saw that old and that nice I'd consider puting in a set of new crank seals right away and get it over with. They harden over time and start to leak slowly......you can tune your way out of it for a while. One way to tell if they are weak is, start the saw, warm it up for a few minutes, with it idling hold it straight out in front of you, turn it on it's left side, turn it on it's right side, hold it pointing straight up, then hold it upside down and then hold it straight down. It should hold it's idle fairly steady. If the seals are new the idle won't change hardly any if at all. With some wear but still functional the idle may slow down or speed up a small amount. If it struggles, revs up or stalls in any position it needs fixin.....seals are only $6-$9... somewhat of a pain to get to but well worth the effort. Plus when you do the flywheel side you can clean up and set the points. Not tryin to scare you or anything and you may well be good to go but thought you should know some of the signs of trouble before it becomes trouble!! Good luck if you have any problems or questions just ask......there's a bunch of guys on here that know their stuff and are always willing to help...


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## jtagen (Aug 31, 2011)

*Question on 49SP*

Wow, can't believe I found this forum.

My dad had an old 49SP that he gave to me to get running after the recent hurricane.

Fuel lines were rotted out, should be easy enough fix.

I have one question - there are two lines to the gas tank. One is supply, going into the carburetor, the second has a check valve then goes towards the front of the saw. Is this just a de-pressurization line, or does it come off the exhaust somehow to pressurize the tank? 

I can't seem to get fuel to flow through the new lines, even after priming the system by hand. Wondering if there's some mechism I'm missing.

Thanks for any feedback!


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## ncfarmboy (Aug 31, 2011)

jtagen said:


> Wow, can't believe I found this forum.
> 
> My dad had an old 49SP that he gave to me to get running after the recent hurricane.
> 
> ...


 
The one on the left is the tank vent. The other is the fuel supply line. Maybe this will help. Ipl attached.
Shep


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## Cantdog (Aug 31, 2011)

jtagen said:


> Wow, can't believe I found this forum.
> 
> My dad had an old 49SP that he gave to me to get running after the recent hurricane.
> 
> ...



Welcome to the site. Farmboy is correct...the line that comes out of a fitting is the tank vent..the fitting is also a one way ball type check valve and it doesn't really go anywhere except through the partition. The other line that goes through the top of the tank is the fuel line...this should pass fuel either way. The usual items should be replaced or rebuilt as a matter of course when trying to get a long sitting saw back on line. First do you have spark?? If you do great...if not you will have to pull the flywheel and clean, file and set the points to 0.016" Next replace the fuel line and filter make sure you get the correct size tubing and it should be Tygon not hardward store stuff. Tygon will stand up better/longer to the effects of E-10. Flush the tank completely clean. Next get a carb rebuild kit and throughly dissmantle and clean you carb and install the new kit. Set the "H" &"L" needles one full turn out from just tight. DO NOT over tighten these!!! Pay close attention to the gasket when you remove the carb from the manifold. If it appears to be in good shape...reuse..if not use it as a pattern to cut a new gasket..or go to a Husky dealer and get the same gasket to fit a 61,266,268 272 etc. Do not use the gasket that comes in the kit..it is to small on the outside and will not cover the impulse corridor and the carb will not pump fuel properly. I you need any help just ask or you can search "49SP and 70E Build From Scratch" There are explanations and many pics dealing with everything except rebuilding the carb it self. Good luck!!


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## keychange (Sep 13, 2011)

*Fuel Boils*

Hi - I have a 49SP that I purchased new in 1980 - I still have the sales brochure and exploded parts list if anyone wants a scan.

My saw never did a great deal of work just firewood for a few years and odd fencing work around the farm, and so over all these years it has only had about 4 chains.

It still works fine however I notice that after say 10 minutes it starts to make funny noises and if I look in the fuel tank - the fuel is bubbling as if boiling. I don't remember this happening before ( but I really hardly use it) - should I be concerned about this?


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## Cantdog (Sep 13, 2011)

keychange said:


> Hi - I have a 49SP that I purchased new in 1980 - I still have the sales brochure and exploded parts list if anyone wants a scan.
> 
> My saw never did a great deal of work just firewood for a few years and odd fencing work around the farm, and so over all these years it has only had about 4 chains.
> 
> It still works fine however I notice that after say 10 minutes it starts to make funny noises and if I look in the fuel tank - the fuel is bubbling as if boiling. I don't remember this happening before ( but I really hardly use it) - should I be concerned about this?


 
No this is pretty much normal with these saws especially when they get hot. The all mag case conducts the engine heat right into the gas tank and will boil the fuel sometimes. This is one reason why most (all) newer designed saws have a fuel tank that is a seperate piece and usually seperated from the engine case by the AV mounts.


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## silveralfa (Nov 26, 2011)

*Another 49sp heard from*

thanks for this thread. I have a family sp49 that looks identical to the one in the photo, it was purchased new in Springfield Ma. in the early 1980's. Who carries the cranks seals? I assume that after all these years they will need replacing. I will try to post a picture.


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## Cantdog (Nov 27, 2011)

The crank seals can be had at any industrial bearing/seals place. You need a Double Lipped seal 35MM (OD) X 15MM (ID) by 7mm thick seal. There are some seals that are better than OEM...buy the best you can get..expect to pay $7-$8 each


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## andydodgegeek (Nov 27, 2011)

*Grandpas 49sp*

When I was a kid my grandpa lived about 1/3 of a mile away and I hung out with him alot. I remember helping him when he was cutting wood and he had a homelite saw. One day me and my dad were helping him and I dont remember exactly what happened but his homelite got crushed by a tree. I mean crushed, we cleaned it up with a rake. He replaced it with a Jonsereds 49sp. He used that saw alot until his health went bad and then he passed. He was a wood cutter into his 80's. When he passed my dad got his 49sp and about a year ago I got it. I cleaned it up good and got it running good. I dont use it often because I have my "go to saws" but I enjoy bringing out grandpas saw when I am grilling and need to cut up some smoking wood. I am sure my grandpa would like to see his saw looking all nice and clean, and I think he would enjoy a piece of smoked chicken. I will take some pics of it tommorrow and post them.


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## keychange (Apr 28, 2012)

Cantdog said:


> The crank seals can be had at any industrial bearing/seals place. You need a Double Lipped seal 35MM (OD) X 15MM (ID) by 7mm thick seal. There are some seals that are better than OEM...buy the best you can get..expect to pay $7-$8 each



I have had mine since new in 78 and it has been a great workhorse for firewood on tough Australian hardwoods. However recently had some problems with over-heating and dying so I have put a new carbie kit and plug but I can't get it to idle - the low speed jet appears so touchy... then it occurred to me that it could be the crank seals - any thoughts?


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## PB (Apr 28, 2012)

keychange said:


> I have had mine since new in 78 and it has been a great workhorse for firewood on tough Australian hardwoods. However recently had some problems with over-heating and dying so I have put a new carbie kit and plug but I can't get it to idle - the low speed jet appears so touchy... then it occurred to me that it could be the crank seals - any thoughts?



It could be, but it could also be the fuel line. Have you replaced the line recently, if not you should start there.


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## Cantdog (Apr 28, 2012)

keychange said:


> I have had mine since new in 78 and it has been a great workhorse for firewood on tough Australian hardwoods. However recently had some problems with over-heating and dying so I have put a new carbie kit and plug but I can't get it to idle - the low speed jet appears so touchy... then it occurred to me that it could be the crank seals - any thoughts?



Welcome to the site keychange. It is probably time for crank seals anyway...you can only expect to get 34-35 yrs out of a rubber seal, especially in a hot climate. If you have already put a carb kit in did you use the gasket that came in the kit between the carb and the manifold/isolation block? These gaskets do not work on these saws as they are not large enough to cover the impulse corridor. You will either need to reuse the old one (if intact) , make a new one or go to your local Husqvarna dealer and ask for this gasket to fit a 61,66,266,268 etc. If this gasket leaks air/vac you will not pump the correct amount of fuel or hardly any at all plus you now have an air leak as well. I would be sure of this gasket...also be sure the cyl base gasket is intact and the bolts tight...they have a habit of getting loose on these saws and blowing out the gasket, as it is made of very thin paper. Of course if you are set up to perfom a vac/pressure test you can chase down leaks rather quickly.


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## Cantdog (Apr 28, 2012)

PB said:


> It could be, but it could also be the fuel line. Have you replaced the line recently, if not you should start there.



Yep that too!! Don't over look the filter either, whilst you're there....


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## MnSam (Apr 29, 2012)

Nice to see a thread on this saw. This saw is always in the back of my mind, and on my radar. My dad made some money using this saw years ago, until it blew, I think I remember seeing a connecting rod through the case. I'd like to find one sometime for my own use.


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## Cantdog (Apr 29, 2012)

MnSam said:


> Nice to see a thread on this saw. This saw is always in the back of my mind, and on my radar. My dad made some money using this saw years ago, until it blew, I think I remember seeing a connecting rod through the case. I'd like to find one sometime for my own use.



Well they are out there and FINALLY someone is producing an aftermarket piston for them. Stock pistons have been NLA for the last 20 yrs or so and until now no one has stepped up to the plate and offered an aftermarket solution. Our very own site sponsor Northwoods Saw now has these gems for sale and are the sole supplier/designer/manufacturer. This means that a tremendous amount of worn out 49sps can be easily given a new life for $29.95 instead of being scrapped. Keep an eye out as in a short time I will be posting up a build thread with lots of pics featuring this piston and the complete restoration of an otherwise dead 49SP from my pile of "Many Jred 49SP parts saws". The follow up will be severe testing over time to see how this piston measures up. I am not affiliated in any way with Northwoods nor is this test sponsored by them. This is simply me building another 49SP with the best parts I can find to give this piston a solid platform to perform from and see where the chips fall...literally!! LOL!!!


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## keychange (Apr 29, 2012)

PB said:


> It could be, but it could also be the fuel line. Have you replaced the line recently, if not you should start there.


The fuel line is clear and the filter is as clean as I can make with high pressure air -I don't think replacements are available.

I used the kit gasket as there was none fitted ... are you sure that this is incorrect, as it does look right and matches the parts diagram.

I mentioned in this forum quite a while back that the fuel was boiling in the tank and I now think that this could also be a sign that the seal is leaking and that hot exhaust gasses are heating the fuel tank.

I checked compression and i get 90 psi - doesn't sound too bad to me for little 2 -stroke, anyone an idea on what it should read?


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## ncfarmboy (Apr 29, 2012)

keychange said:


> The fuel line is clear and the filter is as clean as I can make with high pressure air -I don't think replacements are available.
> 
> I used the kit gasket as there was none fitted ... are you sure that this is incorrect, as it does look right and matches the parts diagram.
> 
> ...



90 psi? I'm suprised it runs. Should be 150-170psi. Cantdog addressed the fuel boiling issue in a previous post. It's normal on these saws.
Shep


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## Cantdog (Apr 29, 2012)

keychange said:


> The fuel line is clear and the filter is as clean as I can make with high pressure air -I don't think replacements are available.
> 
> I used the kit gasket as there was none fitted ... are you sure that this is incorrect, as it does look right and matches the parts diagram.
> 
> ...



Yes I'm sure if you don't have an OEM gasket between the carb and manifold the ones in the kits will not work. Remove the carb and position the gasket on the manifold...on the left side of the manifold at the 9:00 position there is a small hole with a rather "S" shaped corridor that runs to about 11:00 and connects to the small hole in the carb....this entire corridor must be covered by the gasket and air tight. The gaskets that come in the kits work for the tillotson carb fine but not for the Jonsereds saw as they are not large enough to cover in this area.

If you have only 90psi compression you have other problems as well...compression should be at least 140 min. to 170-180 max. in a stock motor. Sounds like you have had some scoring or atleast a partially stuck ring.

These saws boil their fuel, as do the vast majority of all metal saws when run hard in hot weather.. This is why all modern saws have the fuel tank mounted separately and isolated by the AV mounts rather than being simply on the other side of the crankcase partition. That said... I do agree that perhaps after 34-35 yrs it may be time to replace the seals as I said earlier.


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## keychange (Apr 29, 2012)

Cantdog said:


> the small hole in the carb....this entire corridor must be covered by the gasket and air tight.


I don't have the original so I made a paper gasket and it does appear to run better but I still can't get it to idle. As soon as the chain stops the engine dies... is this a possible clutch related issue?


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## Cantdog (Apr 30, 2012)

keychange said:


> I don't have the original so I made a paper gasket and it does appear to run better but I still can't get it to idle. As soon as the chain stops the engine dies... is this a possible clutch related issue?




Good..... this is a process of elimination...do the easy stuff first...now reading back through the posts..PB suggested you change out the fuel line. You responded that the line was clear but what PB was getting at was not cloggage but old lines can/will get hard/soft and/or develop tiny pin holes/leaks. The only way to test these is by doing both a pressure and vac test on the dissconnected line itself or simply replace the 9" of line with new. These small 2 stroke engines are very finicky...all things must be correct in order for them to opperate correctly. At idle this most evident and even a tiny pin hole that doesn't leak gas may well leak vac and when the rpm drops so does the fuel delivery of the pump and the more a very small fuel line vac leak becomes an issue to the point of the pump trying to pump but being unable to maintain correct presssure. Generally it is simply a matter of course to replace the line to eliminate the possibliity of it being a problem.. Next you say you installed a carb kit.....there are a couple possibilities here too. 

(1) did you replace or clean the tiny final fuel filter in the carb? It is about 1/4" in dia and located under the top cover of the carb and sits down in a hole next to where the fuel enters the carb. 

(2) when you had the carb apart did you make sure that there was no cloggage of the idle and main jets? This can be done easily by holding the throttle plate open and spraying WD-40 or similar with low speed needle removed through the needle passage. The WD should come out of the two holes idle holes in the carb bore, one before the throttle plate when closed and one just after the throttle plate when closed. Also make certain that your throttle plate is centered in the bore when completely closed (idle adjustment backed off so it is not touching the throttle arm). Anyway there should be ample WD coming from both idle jets..if not then you will need to pull the welch plug that gives acess to the orifices and clean out what ever crap lies behind. Check the H jet the same way but there is only one hole in the H circuit. 

(3) The next issue is the metering lever. This needs to be set so that at rest the lever tang is perfectly even with carb body where it sets. This adjustment is done by carefully bending the lever to the corect adjustment. 

(4) Are you positive you have ALL the gaskets/diaphrams/pumps installed in the correct order?? Don't take this wrong but it is worth double checking as it can/does happen.

If all the above things are correct the saw will idle with the "L" screw set at one full turn out. (If it is a carb issue that is.) There is still the possibility of crank seal issues and also perhaps breaker point problems too. But as I said it is a process of elimination and no step is wasted effort on a 34-35 yr old saw.

Also I doubt this is a clutch issue. The clutch should become dissengaged at at or around 2700 RPM and it is very rare that these clutchs fail or get worn as they are robust enough to work on a much larger saw motor than the 49SP.


Oh and one other thing...make certain the cyl base bolts are tight. If you find that these can be tightened any amount do not assume that all is well. Pull the cyl and check the base gasket. It is made of very thin paper and if the bolts become loose this gasket WILL blow and then you have a large air leak. (non or very poor running condition) This has occured twice on my orininal 1977 49SP. If you find a blown gasket you will have to make a new one as these are NLA from dealers or perhaps I can email you a printable template.


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## keychange (Apr 30, 2012)

Wow - ok well that will have to wait to next weekend - great stuff and thanks for giving so much thought to my problem. I will worth through the list - although yes I am sure the gaskets are correctly fitted as luckily I have the exploded view that came with the saw. I will let you know my finding and thanks again.

Andrew:msp_wink:


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## pioneerguy600 (Feb 4, 2019)

@Cantdog


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## cjcocn (Feb 5, 2019)

Hi folks.

Can't seem to find any of the brand-specific stickies, so I will post my question here.

Does anyone have the name and contact info for the guy selling NOS J-red parts? His name may be George and I'm sure he was from NY state.

Any help would be appreciated, and if required you can send the info via PM and I will be sure not to make that public in case it results in too many unsolicited PMs for you.


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## Cantdog (Feb 5, 2019)

cjcocn said:


> Hi folks.
> 
> Can't seem to find any of the brand-specific stickies, so I will post my question here.
> 
> ...



Well, well, well look who the cat dragged in?? !!! Chris my man...how you been??? Long time.....

Is this the guy?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-jonser...964100?hash=item5d872f04c4:g:CJgAAOSw-hZcVn0y

Or are you thinking of George Blake?? If so I can't help with that...sorry...

Are you looking for something in particular???


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## cjcocn (Feb 6, 2019)

Cantdog said:


> Well, well, well look who the cat dragged in?? !!! Chris my man...how you been??? Long time.....
> 
> Is this the guy?
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-jonser...964100?hash=item5d872f04c4:g:CJgAAOSw-hZcVn0y
> ...



Good morning! 

Been pretty good .... keeping busy and keeping out of trouble for the most part.

How have things been for you?

Haven't picked up any new J-reds in a long while, but I did finally see a 535 in person last year. The guy was still using it regularly so wasn't interested in letting it go.

A guy on another forum posted some pics and he had some old J-reds in the background. 110s, 111s, XDs, etc. We got to talking and he is interested in accessing some NOS parts. I figured that I would try to help out a fellow J-red aficionado. 

Now that I'm here I think I will have a look around and see what's been happening.

Take care my friend.


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## Cantdog (Feb 6, 2019)

cjcocn said:


> Good morning!
> 
> Been pretty good .... keeping busy and keeping out of trouble for the most part.
> 
> ...



Sounds like bulletproof....he's got a pile of nice old Jreds.....

Good to hear from you....hope to see you around a bit more.


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## cjcocn (Feb 8, 2019)

Cantdog said:


> Sounds like bulletproof....he's got a pile of nice old Jreds.....
> 
> Good to hear from you....hope to see you around a bit more.



Yep, that's him.

It's getting to be the tail end of winter here -28C (-18F today though) and until the fishing picks up I may grab a few non-running J-reds and go through them. That will give me reason to hang around the chainsaw forum.


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