# Help for a newbie - which Stihl chainsaw for occasional milling



## pauster

Hi all,

I am looking for help in selecting the proper chain saw. I occasionally (a few times a year) mill trees into lumber to make furniture, just as a hobby. 

I have cut 3 12"-16" diam hard maple logs (ripped into board with a mini mill) so far and cut some firewood and that killed my 16" electric saw, as expected. Now I have a good excuse to upgrade. As a German (but living in NY) I am somewhat partial to German quality. 

This morning I stopped by my local Stihl dealer and I am confused by the vast selection so I am looking for advice by the experts here. From my reading on the subject I saw that a regular chisel tooth, maybe ground to 10 deg, would be adequate for the job. The largest logs I am likely to cut would be 24" or 
less, all hardwood. An old pear on my property is dying so that's on the list for 
turning into lumber, then furniture.

I was hoping not to spend over $300 for the saw ...

The MS 290 ($359 locally) looked nice.

It would be important that I don't have to fiddle much with it, tune it etc because I have no clue how to best do this. Low maintenance is important for me ...

Any advice would be appreciated. 

Patrick


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## wdchuck

First, Welcome to AS.

Second, the application: occasional milling, in hardwood.
Third, the budget: $300. 

Tough one, milling is the toughest task you can ask of a saw, and from my experience a 70cc+ saw would be the starting point on saw size. 
Your budget limits it to a used saw, but you say minimal fiddling is important. 

Something has to give, even a good used, older saw will cost $300+, and you will need to learn to fiddle with it. 

I would say, read some more threads on milling, and save some money, $500 will buy you a good used saw that is up to the task, 90cc+ and if you pick up a ripping specific chain the results will make you happy. There are very reputable sellers on this site, one in particular is Dean at Washington HotSaws, a sponsor on the site, call him on the phone and he will probably be able to set you up, and the follow-up service is great. I was in your shoes 6months ago and called him, he set me up well with a good saw/price. 

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=46682 Here's a new guy/thread doin what you are right now. check it out.

Milling and saw fiddling go hand in hand, and I can't thankthe members here enough for the help they've given me in learning how to fiddle with my saws, and milling better.


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## 59Billy

wdchuck's advice is right on the money. I'll just try to add another perspective.

First off, milling is rough on any saw. The bigger the saw, the less rough.  The standard advice is to get the biggest saw you can afford. If that means $300, it's going to be tough.

I've milled oak and maple up to about 14" with a 290, and it's slow going, but it can be done. You have to be willing to sharpen chains frequently, and it's not hard to cook a bar and chain.

Last month, I upgraded to a 660, and it's a world of difference. Cutting is tons faster, and surprisingly, chains stay sharp longer. I suspect this has to do with the saw not bogging. Faster cutting also means less operator fatigue.

So... I'd second what wdchuck said... for $500 or so, you might find a good used 066 (predecessor to MS660) that'll do the job for you. I wouldn't rule out an 046, but remember:

There's no replacement for displacement!


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## stonykill

pauster said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I am looking for help in selecting the proper chain saw. I occasionally (a few times a year) mill trees into lumber to make furniture, just as a hobby.
> 
> I have cut 3 12"-16" diam hard maple logs (ripped into board with a mini mill) so far and cut some firewood and that killed my 16" electric saw, as expected. Now I have a good excuse to upgrade. As a German (but living in NY) I am somewhat partial to German quality.
> 
> This morning I stopped by my local Stihl dealer and I am confused by the vast selection so I am looking for advice by the experts here. From my reading on the subject I saw that a regular chisel tooth, maybe ground to 10 deg, would be adequate for the job. The largest logs I am likely to cut would be 24" or
> less, all hardwood. An old pear on my property is dying so that's on the list for
> turning into lumber, then furniture.
> 
> I was hoping not to spend over $300 for the saw ...
> 
> The MS 290 ($359 locally) looked nice.
> 
> It would be important that I don't have to fiddle much with it, tune it etc because I have no clue how to best do this. Low maintenance is important for me ...
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated.
> 
> Patrick



I mill all the time with small saws. 48 to 68 cc's. Use lp chain, run 24 inch bar at the longest, and a small cc saw will take care of both your regular chainsawing needs and occasional milling. Having used an 029 for milling (its my old mans and he insists on using it when he helps), it is not great for milling. My 48cc 031 out mills the 54cc 029 (same as a ms290) by 1/2 log length most every time. I mill mainly 20 inch and under, occasionally up to 24 inch, birch, maple, and cherry regularly with a 48cc 031 and a 58cc pioneer holiday. I run 24 inch bars or shorter and use baileys lp chain. 

If you get an 066 how is that going to meet your limbing needs on these trees? I don't think you need 90cc's as a hobby, once or twice a year miller. And a large saw will not be fun to do the rest of the cleanup with. 

I have always thought the husky 359 would be a good all around saw, 59cc's I think, light, and can run a 24 inch bar if need be. Plus you can run a 16 inch bar for the rest of the cleanup and not kill yourself. If you are only used to an electric chainsaw, the jump to an 066 seems like a large, unsafe leap to me.Going from 2 hp at most to 6hp, without experience is not a good idea in my opinion. 

For a little more money you can get the 290's big brother the ms390, 64cc's, about the same weight as a 290. Personally having milled with a 029 and seeing my smaller, much older stihl 031 outmills it so bad, I wouldn't recommend it. Go back to the stihl dealer and handle the 390 and see what kind of deal he will make you. It should fit your needs just fine>>>>Tom


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## WadePatton

Dolmar is German.

And a huge part of the Stihl saws sold here are made in the US. It's well known that Japanese cars built here aren't as good as the ones made in Japan. Don't know if that applies to saws or not. I do know that Dodge trucks are "assembled" in St. Louis and Mexico and there's no big quality differences in those two items. Swedish quality is fine for me--remember the 6.5x55 Mauser?

:greenchainsaw:


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## aggiewoodbutchr

Let me start by saying... if it were me, I'd be looking for a bigger saw.

BUT...

Taking your parameters into consideration, stonykill has a lot of good advice in his post. I have little milling experience with small saws but I have done some with my $150 Stihl 034 ebay saw. It will get the job done for occasional hobby milling and is a GREAT all around saw.

In reference to the chain, I would not recommend using chisel chain unless that was all you had. I'd save it for cross cutting and get some ripping chain from Bailey's or any full comp semi-chisel or chipper chain filed to 10 degrees.

Good luck and welcome to AS!


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## Semi-Hex

I've been doing pretty ok with my MS 361 That being said, I haven't done much hard wood at all, I do use a 19 inch bar with lp. I sharpen (touch up more like) often,but I see the advantage for a larger saw. I think with softwoods I'm fine though if I do more milling, I'll end up buying two saw instead of one more for the milling.


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## stonykill

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> BUT...
> 
> Taking your parameters into consideration, stonykill has a lot of good advice in his post. I have little milling experience with small saws but I have done some with my $150 Stihl 034 ebay saw. It will get the job done for occasional hobby milling and is a GREAT all around saw.
> 
> In reference to the chain, I would not recommend using chisel chain unless that was all you had. I'd save it for cross cutting and get some ripping chain from Bailey's or any full comp semi-chisel or chipper chain filed to 10 degrees.
> 
> Good luck and welcome to AS!



I started with the 031 and std baileys ripping chain . After switching to lp baileys ripping chain there is just no comparison. The std ripping chain on a small saw is painfully slow. LP is the only way to go if you are going to use a small cc saw. Keep the oil cranked all the way up. If these don't get a lot of oil, they will stretch like crazy on a 24 inch bar. No problems at all on 20 inch and shorter bars. If you keep the oil maxxed out, it will get enough oil on the 24 inch bar. These lp chains seem to require more oil than std chain, but for the difference in cutting speed, its the only way to go.


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## pauster

Thank you all for the great advice !

Would a Stihl 036Pro like this 

http://cgi.ebay.com/STIHL-036PRO-CH...ryZ79669QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

be a decent compromise between power and all-round use for limbing (and price) ? I am still confused by the number of models available ...


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## aggiewoodbutchr

stonykill said:


> I started with the 031 and std baileys ripping chain . After switching to lp baileys ripping chain there is just no comparison. The std ripping chain on a small saw is painfully slow. LP is the only way to go if you are going to use a small cc saw. Keep the oil cranked all the way up. If these don't get a lot of oil, they will stretch like crazy on a 24 inch bar. No problems at all on 20 inch and shorter bars. If you keep the oil maxxed out, it will get enough oil on the 24 inch bar. These lp chains seem to require more oil than std chain, but for the difference in cutting speed, its the only way to go.



Just curious... have you tried any .325 chain for milling? I'm experimenting with some on my 084 / 44" bar and after 8 cuts in a 24" wide x 8' cant the chain has stretched less than 1/8". I've read a lot about LP chain stretching or breaking on larger saws. Could be due to the fact it's only available in .050 guage where as I'm running .063.


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## computeruser

A plastic saw like the MS290/310/390 will NOT hold up to milling for very long, if at all. Y'all probably remember how Mr. Sap (now banned) wrecked his 390 by milling with it, cracking the plastic engine cradle and oil tank almost as soon as he first put it to wood. Those plastic-cased saws are not intended for this sort of use and will break if used for milling. 

So at a minimum you need to find something with a magnesium case. Beyond that, 24" hardwood is a good workout for a 92cc Stihl 066, so I absolutely would not go any smaller than an 046/460 for milling. Sure, you could do it with any saw if you had enough patience, but why?

What I would do is start looking for a good deal on a used saw of sufficient size. Bigger, torquey old saws like the Stihl 056 and 051/075/076 can often be had for a very fair price. It doesn't need to be pretty; so long as it runs and oils you'll be fine.

Oh and welcome to the site, too!!


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## aggiewoodbutchr

pauster said:


> Thank you all for the great advice !
> 
> Would a Stihl 036Pro like this
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/STIHL-036PRO-CH...ryZ79669QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> 
> be a decent compromise between power and all-round use for limbing (and price) ? I am still confused by the number of models available ...



That would be a good model IF it's a good runner. There at lot of Ebay/ chainsaw horror stories out there but I've personally bought 3 saws with no problems. Sometimes sellers will agree to give you a short time to have a mechanic look over the saw. Doesn't hurt to ask.


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## aggiewoodbutchr

pauster said:


> Thank you all for the great advice !
> 
> Would a Stihl 036Pro like this
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/STIHL-036PRO-CH...ryZ79669QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> 
> be a decent compromise between power and all-round use for limbing (and price) ? I am still confused by the number of models available ...



pauster- I sent you a PM.


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## stonykill

pauster, sent you a pm also


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## stonykill

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Just curious... have you tried any .325 chain for milling? I'm experimenting with some on my 084 / 44" bar and after 8 cuts in a 24" wide x 8' cant the chain has stretched less than 1/8". I've read a lot about LP chain stretching or breaking on larger saws. Could be due to the fact it's only available in .050 guage where as I'm running .063.




When I had an 056 I ran lp on that also, never broke a chain. Never ran over 24 inches with lp either though. I have milled some small logs with my 346xp with the .325 chain reground to 10 degrees. That was not a good test though, while the 346xp is a great saw for limbing, etc, its 46cc's high rpm. My 031 is 48cc's lower rpm, and again outmilled the 346 bigtime. So I guess to answer your question, yes I tried it, but it was not a good comparison test. I just bought a roll of lp 3/8, so I don't think I'll be playing with other pitches for a while>Tom


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## CaseyForrest

I got my first 066 for $250. Put it into the wood without putting another dime into it.

Just have to be patient and wait for the deals.

Look up tkemble, member here. He buys and fixes saws.


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## stonykill

CaseyForrest said:


> I got my first 066 for $250. Put it into the wood without putting another dime into it.
> 
> Just have to be patient and wait for the deals.
> 
> Look up tkemble, member here. He buys and fixes saws.



if I'm reading the 1st post right, and I think I am, he has no need for a saw as large as an 066. He was using an electric chainsaw to cut firewood and occasionally mill. This is as occasional as you can get. The step from an electric chainsaw to an 066 is a HUGE step, and most likely not a safe step. I would not recommend an 066 to anyone who was previously using an electric chainsaw to cut their wood. Judging from the pm's he and I have exchanged, he wants a saw for general chainsaw work, that can be used to mill a few times a year. If he was milling with an electric chainsaw, most any gas chainsaw is going to seem amazing


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## 59Billy

stonykill said:


> if I'm reading the 1st post right, and I think I am, he has no need for a saw as large as an 066. He was using an electric chainsaw to cut firewood and occasionally mill. This is as occasional as you can get. The step from an electric chainsaw to an 066 is a HUGE step, and most likely not a safe step. I would not recommend an 066 to anyone who was previously using an electric chainsaw to cut their wood. Judging from the pm's he and I have exchanged, he wants a saw for general chainsaw work, that can be used to mill a few times a year. If he was milling with an electric chainsaw, most any gas chainsaw is going to seem amazing



Good points. 

Sometimes the multitude of advice here can be overwhelming.

Of course, if he hangs around here AND keeps milling, he's pretty much doomed to acquiring an 066/660 anyway. 

On an almost-related note: my dealer was telling me that right after Katrina, they couldn't get any new saws other than 650s. The thought of a bunch of newbies clearing strom damage with saws that big is kinda scarey...


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## stonykill

59Billy said:


> Good points.
> 
> Sometimes the multitude of advice here can be overwhelming.
> 
> Of course, if he hangs around here AND keeps milling, he's pretty much doomed to acquiring an 066/660 anyway.
> 
> On an almost-related note: my dealer was telling me that right after Katrina, they couldn't get any new saws other than 650s. The thought of a bunch of newbies clearing strom damage with saws that big is kinda scarey...



makes me wonder how many ended up in the hospital


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## 59Billy

stonykill said:


> makes me wonder how many ended up in the hospital



Strangely enough, I haven't been hearing about many. The local paper did a story about a year ago about how many *construction* injuries were being seen in the overloaded local ER. The combination of half the hospitals being blown away with construction/demolition booming was a mess.


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## stonykill

well thats good news. The low number of chainsaw injuries that is. The other, not good. I hate to see people get hurt. 

We just had an "idiot" 18 year old kid, in the area, poor 5 gallons of gas over a brush fire that he had already tried to start. He was on top of the pile while pooring the gas. Well thankfully someone was there to put him out when he hit the ground, and only 1/2 of his body is 3rd degree burns. Makes me sit here and shake my head. I feel real bad for him, yet all I can think is ...he needs a sign


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## CaseyForrest

stonykill said:


> if I'm reading the 1st post right, and I think I am, he has no need for a saw as large as an 066. He was using an electric chainsaw to cut firewood and occasionally mill. This is as occasional as you can get. The step from an electric chainsaw to an 066 is a HUGE step, and most likely not a safe step. I would not recommend an 066 to anyone who was previously using an electric chainsaw to cut their wood. Judging from the pm's he and I have exchanged, he wants a saw for general chainsaw work, that can be used to mill a few times a year. If he was milling with an electric chainsaw, most any gas chainsaw is going to seem amazing




I know what you mean. I wasnt alluding to him getting a large saw. Merely pointing out I got a used running 066 for $250. The same good deals are on smaller used saws too.


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## stonykill

CaseyForrest said:


> I know what you mean. I wasnt alluding to him getting a large saw. Merely pointing out I got a used running 066 for $250. The same good deals are on smaller used saws too.




yes they are. You just need to be patient. My new to me favorite milling saw is my $16.25 pioneer holiday. $1.25 winning bid, $15 shipping. I got it, modded a husky 24 inch bar I had, to fit it, gassed it up, and started milling. Gotta love the deals if you are patient. 

Of course I prefer older saws for milling. On the hoilday and my macs, the muffler is pointing to the ground, not blowing in my face. The torque more than makes up for the lack of displacement. To each his own. 

I was reading your post like the typical chainsaw forum post. You know the type of post. A guy wants to buy his first saw to cut down one tree, and most everyone replies ms361 with a muffler mod, and a 346xp for limbing. Makes me laugh, the guy wants to cut up one tree. Seems on the milling forum, the general consensus is you just can't mill if you don't have an 066 or a 395. On the same note, my local sawmill thinks I must be nuts to be milling with a chainsaw. Says I'm wasting my time.I need to buy a $5000 bandmill according to him. Its all in how you look at it and what you enjoy.


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## CaseyForrest

stonykill said:


> yes they are. You just need to be patient. My new to me favorite milling saw is my $16.25 pioneer holiday. $1.25 winning bid, $15 shipping. I got it, modded a husky 24 inch bar I had, to fit it, gassed it up, and started milling. Gotta love the deals if you are patient.
> 
> Of course I prefer older saws for milling. On the hoilday and my macs, the muffler is pointing to the ground, not blowing in my face. The torque more than makes up for the lack of displacement. To each his own.
> 
> I was reading your post like the typical chainsaw forum post. You know the type of post. A guy wants to buy his first saw to cut down one tree, and most everyone replies ms361 with a muffler mod, and a 346xp for limbing. Makes me laugh, the guy wants to cut up one tree. Seems on the milling forum, the general consensus is you just can't mill if you don't have an 066 or a 395. On the same note, my local sawmill thinks I must be nuts to be milling with a chainsaw. Says I'm wasting my time.I need to buy a $5000 bandmill according to him. Its all in how you look at it and what you enjoy.



I hear ya. Ive never been one to suggest more saw than someone needs. I couldnt imagine milling with anything less than a 660 sized saw, but Im also almost always into hardwood.


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## aquan8tor

stonykill said:


> if I'm reading the 1st post right, and I think I am, he has no need for a saw as large as an 066. He was using an electric chainsaw to cut firewood and occasionally mill. This is as occasional as you can get. The step from an electric chainsaw to an 066 is a HUGE step, and most likely not a safe step. I would not recommend an 066 to anyone who was previously using an electric chainsaw to cut their wood. Judging from the pm's he and I have exchanged, he wants a saw for general chainsaw work, that can be used to mill a few times a year. If he was milling with an electric chainsaw, most any gas chainsaw is going to seem amazing






These are good points. When I got my 394, I'd been using saws in the 50-60cc size for years, and was completely blown away! However, even though there's a big jump with a gas saw, there will be a need for something capable of handling a 3/8" sprocket so that you can use LP ripping chain. I am one to always have a little more than necessary, but certainly realize that other people make do with what is adequate. In this case, I have to join the bandwagon with those saying get the biggest you can possibly afford. You're going to burn out a small gas saw even with LP chain and 16" logs. If this is what you have to do, you need to let it idle for a minute or two minimum before turning it off, and probably let it cool down for a while in between boards. I think an older 036, 044 or larger would be a smart choice for planning ahead, and can be found for less than $300 or so on ebay. I'm pretty sure there's a 372XP for sale in the trading forum for less than $400.


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## pauster

Oh well ...

I just got myself a used 044 with a 20" bar on ebay for $300. The seller appears reputable.

Hope it all works out ...  

I'll be back often with many questions for you guys, you have been most helpful


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## wdchuck

A classic Stihl saw, pro level too, we'll be here to help, if you need saw specific assistance, post your question in the CHAINSAW forum, lots of traffic in there.

Now, how are set on PPE?


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## pauster

wdchuck said:


> A classic Stihl saw, pro level too, we'll be here to help, if you need saw specific assistance, post your question in the CHAINSAW forum, lots of traffic in there.
> 
> Now, how are set on PPE?



I'll be back  

What do you mean by PPE ?


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## 00juice

*Ppe*

Personal Protective Equipment. Need some things like hearing protection. (Ear plugs, Ear Muffs or Both) Safety Glasses, hard hat, chaps. Protect your body. I just got a Peltor Hardhat with face shield, and Ear muffs for like $40 from Bailey's. Well worth the money. I love the face shield, and its greeat having the hearing protection handy.


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## pauster

00juice said:


> Personal Protective Equipment. Need some things like hearing protection. (Ear plugs, Ear Muffs or Both) Safety Glasses, hard hat, chaps. Protect your body. I just got a Peltor Hardhat with face shield, and Ear muffs for like $40 from Bailey's. Well worth the money. I love the face shield, and its greeat having the hearing protection handy.



Very good point, I had only used ear muffs and safety glasses so far. I saw a Stihl hard hat with face shield (perforated metal) and ear muffs for $50 at the local Stihl dealer. I'll check out Bailey's. Do I need to wear safety glasses under that ?

About the chaps - how important are these ? How much extra protection do they offer offer over POB (plain old blue-jeans) ?


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## 00juice

I don't currently have chaps. I'm getting a used pair from a friend. It always scares me when i'm standing behind the mill and I see a big chain spinning. If the chain breaks, its gonna come right across my thighs. The difference between blue jeans and chaps i'd say will be pretty important if that happens. The chaps are made to withstand chain contact, your jeans will likele provide no protection at all. Probably won't be a problem, but people have on rare occasion broken chains, For $50 i'd say its well worth that little bit of change.


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## aggiewoodbutchr

Have you seen these? Hard hat, ear muffs, face shield and powered respirator. I don't have one yet but I intend to get one soon. At the very least you should consider a respirator of some sort as exhaust fumes can sometimes be overwhelming when milling.




http://www.amazon.com/Triton-Worksh...15-5725448?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1175868458&sr=8-5


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## pauster

How about one of these ?

http://www.pbase.com/flemmingbo/image/66986107

They are only available used, though.


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## aggiewoodbutchr

pauster said:


> How about one of these ?
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/flemmingbo/image/66986107
> 
> They are only available used, though.



  

That's a good one! You may be on to something!


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## wdchuck

It'll be a challenge when ya gotta water a tree.:hmm3grin2orange: 

Here's what sucks about milling, fine dust that you are in close proximity to, in your eyes, up your nose and in your lungs and belly, also the fumes, probably a good idea to keep that out of your body, not to mention any fungi/mold spores that are on/in/under the bark. So a paper disposable mask would help considerably, some of the respirators solve more issues, and keep your eyes clean. 

Chaps, I wear mine for safety, the saw is running when I put it on my guide board and start cutting, and when I take it out of the cut at the end, then it sits and idles for a minute to cool off. I'd hate for the saw to accidentally get in a runaway situation while my thighs are that close. 
I also wear them for added comfort if I'm kneeling as I cut, and it keeps my clothes cleaner when I'm done. 

After yesterday and the wind swirling around me, even the mesh screen didn't stop my eyes from getting full of crap, and with wearing glasses the paper masks cause fogging, so I will be looking into a fresh air respirator soon.

.


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## wdchuck

That Triton deal looks like the ticket, and depending on the VDC requirements, it couldn't be too hard to adapt a replaceable/exchangeable battery pack from a cordless tool. 

I've run other devices on my tool batteries without a problem, there's a way if a guy wants to be creative. 

My other thought, is that the mfg, wants to limit how many hours a user wears the system, so they limit the battery life to 4hrs continuous, and overnight charge time, the user's neck, back, get a break from the weight, less liability. 

Thinking outloud.


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## Rodney Sinclair

I loved the pic of the diving suit. I was a deepsea diver back in the 70's and had a friend that put a suit like that in his yard. He lived in a town called Raceland just east of New Orleans on old hwy 90. Had another friend that wore a hat like that to dive in. Not the suit, just the hat. Because of the freeflow system it had, it worked great up to 180'. He had to change to a hat with a mouth piece when we went on gas. It was a PITA to clean.
On the respirators, I find the battery kind gets in the way. Gotta have a belt pac and hose that is always hung up on something. I use a bandanna that I keep wet and it doesn't get in the way of my safety glasses. Love the chaps in brush.
As for as the smallest saw, I have no clue how small you can go. I know I've used a MS310 on the Logosol M7 when my big saw was down and it worked pretty well. Had a 20" bar and reg chain and it worked OK. Just wouldn't want to use it a lot.
Rodney


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## aquan8tor

pauster said:


> Very good point, I had only used ear muffs and safety glasses so far. I saw a Stihl hard hat with face shield (perforated metal) and ear muffs for $50 at the local Stihl dealer. I'll check out Bailey's. Do I need to wear safety glasses under that ?
> 
> About the chaps - how important are these ? How much extra protection do they offer offer over POB (plain old blue-jeans) ?






Chaps might just save your life. I didn't ever wear them as a teenager, but after the last year or two using them, I won't cut without them. There's a good video available done by a private company, using Labonville chaps. Search for chaps video, or something like that. After seeing that video, you'll never ask if chaps are necessary again. Really. I also wear steel toed boots. My dad had a close call when I was a kid. I feel like I can't be too careful. I just know that it only takes a split second, and if you saw long enough, something might happen sooner or later. I want to increase all the odds I can to protect myself when that incident might happen, but hopefully it never does. I never saw when I'm tired or hungry, and certainly never with any alcohol. Saws are dangerous. Bottom line, be careful.
On that note, I'll change to......hope you enjoy the new saw. Congratulations!!   :rockn:


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## BarkMulch

Hello everybody,
I'm pretty much a FNG when it comes to all this milling stuff.
I have been hanging around a while but haven't posted because I have had nothing to add and figured why clutter the posts. But I have become more knowledgeable because of the time spent and would like thank everybody for all of the info and insight.
The reason I decided to open my yap is that I saw Pauster is from Glen Cove and I am over in Sea Cliff, one town over and wanted to say hello.
This area isn't exactly a haven for milling and chainsaws.
So again, hello to all.


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## woodshop

BarkMulch said:


> I have been hanging around a while but haven't posted because I have had nothing to add and figured why clutter the posts.



One mans "clutter" is another mans insight and good post, so don't be afraid to chime in with questions and comments. yup... this place is a gold mine of info if you take the time to use the search engine. Welcome to AS


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## pauster

BarkMulch said:


> Hello everybody,
> I'm pretty much a FNG when it comes to all this milling stuff.
> I have been hanging around a while but haven't posted because I have had nothing to add and figured why clutter the posts. But I have become more knowledgeable because of the time spent and would like thank everybody for all of the info and insight.
> The reason I decided to open my yap is that I saw Pauster is from Glen Cove and I am over in Sea Cliff, one town over and wanted to say hello.
> This area isn't exactly a haven for milling and chainsaws.
> So again, hello to all.



Hello Neighbor,

if you ever want to team up on some felling and milling, let me know )

hone: 

Patrick


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## dustytools

BarkMulch said:


> Hello everybody,
> I'm pretty much a FNG when it comes to all this milling stuff.
> I have been hanging around a while but haven't posted because I have had nothing to add and figured why clutter the posts. But I have become more knowledgeable because of the time spent and would like thank everybody for all of the info and insight.
> The reason I decided to open my yap is that I saw Pauster is from Glen Cove and I am over in Sea Cliff, one town over and wanted to say hello.
> This area isn't exactly a haven for milling and chainsaws.
> So again, hello to all.



Hello BarkMulch and welcome. Feel free to open your yap anytime you please.


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## BobL

Hello and a big welcome barkmulch.

Just a word about the triton respirator. It does not remove fumes but is very effective on fine dust. See this post for more details.


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## aggiewoodbutchr

I see that they don't offer charcoal filter packs for it. I guess since it doesn't fully seal to your face they can't officially rate it for fumes. Bummer. I was also hoping to use when I'm spraying finishes.

The filters look very similar to MSA brand filters and they are availabe with charcoal. I wonder if they fit?


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## BobL

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> I see that they don't offer charcoal filter packs for it. I guess since it doesn't fully seal to your face they can't officially rate it for fumes. Bummer. I was also hoping to use when I'm spraying finishes.
> 
> The filters look very similar to MSA brand filters and they are availabe with charcoal. I wonder if they fit?



I think you have hit the nail on the head. The charcoals would probably work although somewhere I heard that the charcoals also had a higher flow resistance and that would reduce overall air flow and also strain the pump motor. The unit does come with a simple ball-in-a-tube test flow meter so it would be easy enough to check. Maybe I will buy some charcoals and try it out. My take would be any reduction in fumes is better than nothing.


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## aggiewoodbutchr

BobL said:


> I think you have hit the nail on the head. The charcoals would probably work although somewhere I heard that the charcoals also had a higher flow resistance and that would reduce overall air flow and also strain the pump motor. The unit does come with a simple ball-in-a-tube test flow meter so it would be easy enough to check. Maybe I will buy some charcoals and try it out. My take would be any reduction in fumes is better than nothing.



Even if the charcoals didn't work, my guess would be that you would inhale less fumes anyway as the filter pack is wore on you back.


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## pauster

*Thanks !*

Just a thank you for all on this thread - I got my Stihl 044 off ebay and it is running great from all I can tell (http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=46878)

I can't wait for the weekend to mill a maple log or two !


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## stonykill

pauster said:


> Just a thank you for all on this thread - I got my Stihl 044 off ebay and it is running great from all I can tell (http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=46878)
> 
> I can't wait for the weekend to mill a maple log or two !



great choice in saws, enjoy Wish I could mill this weekend. Its snowing here again


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## oldsaw

Undecided rain or snow here. Sloppy, nasty...yech.

Mark


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## aggiewoodbutchr

oldsaw said:


> Undecided rain or snow here. Sloppy, nasty...yech.
> 
> Mark



I'm looking out my office door now... clear, 60 degrees and just a beautiful spring day. Looks like I'll be millin' this afternoon.


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## aquan8tor

Pauster, good luck with the new saw, and be careful!! Make sure you always wear that helmet WITH the goggles, like you described. I broke one of my own rules, and almost paid for it tuesday afternoon. Although I had my Stihl protective helmet/faceshield/ear protection on, I didn't wear my safety goggles UNDERNEATH. Long story short, a branch under tension snapped up when I cut it, and I was at just the right angle for it to knock my visor up and hit me right in the eyeball. Hurts like a ?????. ER docs and Opthalmologist say I'll be fine, but it'll hurt for a few days. The contact lens I was wearing probably kept the injury to the cornea, or lens part of the eye, from being worse. I did tear a gash through the conjunctiva, into the sclera. (sorry, I'm in school for nursing; this means through the clear covering of the eye into the white part of the eye below the colored part).....


Check out the chainsaw injury forum if you have a strong stomach. It really could've been worse!!! Thank god I was wearing the visor.


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## pauster

aquan8tor said:


> Paulster, good luck with the new saw, and be careful!! Make sure you always wear that helmet WITH the goggles, like you described. I broke one of my own rules, and almost paid for it tuesday afternoon. Although I had my Stihl protective helmet/faceshield/ear protection on, I didn't wear my safety goggles UNDERNEATH. Long story short, a branch under tension snapped up when I cut it, and I was at just the right angle for it to knock my visor up and hit me right in the eyeball. Hurts like a ?????. ER docs and Opthalmologist say I'll be fine, but it'll hurt for a few days. The contact lens I was wearing probably kept the injury to the cornea, or lens part of the eye, from being worse. I did tear a gash through the conjunctiva, into the sclera. (sorry, I'm in school for nursing; this means through the clear covering of the eye into the white part of the eye below the colored part).....
> 
> 
> Check out the chainsaw injury forum if you have a strong stomach. It really could've been worse!!! Thank god I was wearing the visor.



Oh oh, you are right. I found the cost of all the PPE items high, but then I thought what the copay for many doctor visits is .... Chaps face shield/helmet and glasses don't literally cost an arm and a leg, not having them might.

Hope all will turn out well with your eye ... good luck !


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## aquan8tor

Thanks. Its already on the mend, so to speak. I'm off the percocet and onto ibuprofen. Yeah, the PPE is expensive, but, as I just found out, not that bad. $150 copay for an ER visit-----would've been less than $40 for a NICE pair of goggles. Painful lesson in humility, and safety.


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## pauster2

this is just a test to figure out why I can only give bad rep to people ...


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## pauster

All,

just a quick update - I cut 4 nice 5/4 - 6/4 boards and a 3 inch slab (7 1/2 feet, 8-12 inch wide, nicely spalted maple) from a log that had been waiting for a year to be cut up in your back yard.

Amazing how the 044 plowed through that log ! 

I didn't notice a big nail at the bottom between board 2 and three which gave
me plenty of sharpening excercise. :biggrinbounce2: 

Eventually I have to buy some ripping chain - the Woodsman Pro from Baily. Which type would I need ? I am a bit confused by
the sizes offered.

I did notice that my wagner moisture meter (205) is not working anymore, hope their customer service can help me fix it ...

I have another log, about 16-18 inch diameter, which will be next once it stops pouring.

Anyway just wanted to thank you all ... I'll be back with more questions soon !

Patrick


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## pauster

Oh and I forgot to mention - having all the safety gear made me feel a lot more comfortable with a powerful saw. Glad I took your advice.


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## andrethegiant70

If you own a nice saw that you use to heat your house or make the REAL money, DON'T use that one. Your milling saw will most probably have a substantially shorter life span than saws used conventionally. If your budget is really $300, you might want to be lookng for a good running Stihl 051, 056, or an old Jonsereds (90, 910, etc.) The older, quality saws are fairly well designed for milling and there are a few models for which parts can still be had. I would love an 066, but finding a good runner for under $300 might not be doable. I myself have been keeping an eye out for an 051, they still make a concrete saw based on that model so there are still pistons and cylinders available.

Also, you're going to need some coin to find the right bar and chain(s)... not very cheap. If you really decide you enjoy it and have a use for the lumber, then make the bigger investment... Once you're displacing the cost of store-bought lumber, the saw will pay for itself in short order.

I've also found that milling the larger dimension lumber is MORE cost effective. Beams are REALLY expensive at the lumber yard and yet they are easier to mill... fewer cuts! Harder to cure, though.


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## pauster

Andy

I did get the 044 with saw 20'" bar for $300 and love it so far. It is a hobby only for use a few times a year. For a bit of milling of logs 20" and under and occasional firewood cutting it seems to work great. I will et a 25' roll of ripping chain and eventually and a longer bar and better milling attachment if I do this more frequently.

But I am sure soon I'll add to the collection of saws  

Patrick


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