# chainsaw info



## fgilmer (Dec 11, 2008)

I new so excuse any dumb questions or comments. I am in the process of building a sawmill real similar to a procut mill, I have owned two different mills in the past and sold both for different reasons. The first mill I iowened was a logosol m7. great mill. when i had it i was useing a stihl 046 on it and i have to admit it wasnt quite enough saw. My question today starts there, I want to be sure with this new mill I have enough saw. I have a husqvarna 395xp that I was going to use. Is this a good choice? Is there a better choice?


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## steve fryar (Dec 11, 2008)

It is great choice.I love mine and I mill Australian hardwood with it.I thought about a 3120 but I am happy with what I have.


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## woodshop (Dec 11, 2008)

My 395 is a great milling saw, puts out a ton of oil, lots of power. Good choice.


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## fgilmer (Dec 11, 2008)

I just got off the phone with the repair shop the 395 may have problems. What about an stihl 076? Is this suitable?


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## harrygrey382 (Dec 11, 2008)

fgilmer said:


> I just got off the phone with the repair shop the 395 may have problems. What about an stihl 076? Is this suitable?


very - much more torque than a 395 (111cc vs 95cc ish). A bit heavier, well a lot (read more solidopcorn: ) but that doesn't matter when milling.


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## Trever (Dec 18, 2008)

*075/ 076*

Great choice! Torque monsters that make good milling machines. Parts on 0505,051,075,076, TS510, and TS760 are mostly interchangeable. The air filter systems on the TS510 and TS760 will work on the 075/076. The TS model tanks hold more fuel and work on the chainsaw models too. I like them!!!

Trever


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## harrygrey382 (Dec 19, 2008)

Trever said:


> Great choice! Torque monsters that make good milling machines. Parts on 0505,051,075,076, TS510, and TS760 are mostly interchangeable. The air filter systems on the TS510 and TS760 will work on the 075/076. The TS model tanks hold more fuel and work on the chainsaw models too. I like them!!!
> 
> Trever


don't forget the MS051 and MS076!


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## Trever (Dec 19, 2008)

*MS051 and MS076*

Do you know where I could get a new MS076? I think the closest place ito Tennessee is Mexico; that is not close at all. They do not offer them in the UK do they? Thank you.


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## Zodiac45 (Dec 19, 2008)

Trever said:


> Do you know where I could get a new MS076? I think the closest place ito Tennessee is Mexico; that is not close at all. They do not offer them in the UK do they? Thank you.



You'd have to buy a used one I believe. While all the choices are good milling saws, you need to keep in mind that milling is hard on any saw and thus parts availability and cost need to be figured in. The 395XP is the best saw out there for the money versus performance and cost of parts and availablility. A Stihl 066 is comparable also with a bit higher costs.  Personally for a logosol type mill I like the big Dolmar 9010 too.


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## BlueRider (Dec 19, 2008)

Because the MS051 and MS076 are still being manufactured and sold new in other parts of the word the parts are still available. Some dealers are more helpful than others. The TS 510 and TS 760 parts also fit the 051 and 075/076 so sometimes it is just a matter of finding the right ILP to look up the parts from to find available parts. 

For the few parts that are not available from a dealer or are more expensive than what one may wish to pay there is a ready supply of used parts to be found on line. 

Parts for the 051/056 and 075/076 are really not a problam. they are great saws and for my money the 051 has to coolest sound of any chainsaw.


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## BobL (Dec 19, 2008)

Talking about 076 parts, I'm chasing a fuel tank - I'd like to mod the tank so I can refuel mid slab - with the 076 laying on its side. Anyone have any leads?
Cheers


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## fgilmer (Dec 20, 2008)

Hey Guys I got the 395 back, not as big a problem as first thought. I really appericate the info. I think I am going to set the 076 up as a second saw for the mill. im going tomorrow, to start welding every thing together for the mill, I have the machine work done, and most of the parts gathered up, maybe I will try to post pictures when im done. wish me luck
Fred


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## BlueRider (Dec 20, 2008)

Bob, 

one of my 051's has a larger tank than the other not sure how much difference between the to but it is enough that I can make it through on one tank in the larger and not always with the smaller. You may want to find out if your saw was ever equiped with a larger tank.

I dont have a problem refilling my saw while it is bolted to the mill stuck in the middle of a log. I have a gas can with a flexable plastic hose that fits in the tank. It is a bit blind as far as seeing if it is almost full and you cant actualy get the tank full but you can get the saw running again. the oil tank is another story.


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## Trever (Dec 20, 2008)

*051/075/076 gas filler*



BobL said:


> Talking about 076 parts, I'm chasing a fuel tank - I'd like to mod the tank so I can refuel mid slab - with the 076 laying on its side. Anyone have any leads?
> Cheers



Bob,

I am researching ways to make what we are wanting (filler tube). I am looking at 90 degree elbows that are the same thread count as the gas tank's. This way you could still vent using the correct filler cap. I am trying to figure out to join it. Have a blessed day and I will let you know if I coe up with a design.


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## BobL (Dec 20, 2008)

BlueRider said:


> You may want to find out if your saw was ever equiped with a larger tank.
> 
> I dont have a problem refilling my saw while it is bolted to the mill stuck in the middle of a log. I have a gas can with a flexable plastic hose that fits in the tank. It is a bit blind as far as seeing if it is almost full and you cant actualy get the tank full but you can get the saw running again. the oil tank is another story.



Thanks BR, I'm pretty sure I have the large tank. I also refill mid log using a similar gas can but my wide hard logs sometimes need a full tank plus up to three partial refills and I usually end up spilling more than I like. I have no problem refilling the oil tank.



Trever said:


> Bob,
> I am researching ways to make what we are wanting (filler tube). I am looking at 90 degree elbows that are the same thread count as the gas tank's. This way you could still vent using the correct filler cap. I am trying to figure out to join it. Have a blessed day and I will let you know if I coe up with a design.


I've also looked into this. From memory the mix inlet thread is a 32 mm x 2 mm which is non standard and so will need to be cut on a lathe. I look in every plumbing store I go into to see if they have something close to that fitting that I can adapt. What concerns me about using an elbow, is the 076 will shake any fitting like crazy and I definitely do not want anything leaking. I have also though of milling an ally block which would vibe less than an elbow but a simple fitting on the side would be easier.

Anyway I'll be interested to see what you come up with.


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## BlueRider (Dec 20, 2008)

BobL said:


> Thanks BR, I'm pretty sure I have the large tank. I also refill mid log using a similar gas can but my wide hard logs sometimes need a full tank plus up to three partial refills and I usually end up spilling more than I like. I have no problem refilling the oil tank.QUOTE]
> 
> I know only too well what you mean by spilling. I figured you were probably already doing this but thought I would throw it out there.
> 
> ...


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## Trever (Dec 21, 2008)

*Aux. Tank*

Sounds like a good idea. I didn't even think of that. Thank you and have a blessed day.


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## glennschumann (Dec 21, 2008)

Bob,

Could you find a badly damaged tank (with cap from any make of saw), cut around the filler tube and weld (or epoxy / glue / seal) it over a newly cut hole in the side of your existing tank? If you decide that two filler holes are better than one, this may be an easy solution. It would allow filling from either orientation. If you don't use this saw for bucking too much, the extra filler hole may not provide any problems by getting in the way. Other thoughts are to do something similar with hardware store parts (pipe nipples, couplings, caps etc).

I know it is a crude hack, not in line with the quality of your work... but maybe it will lead to a thought and solution for you.

TTFN


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## Brmorgan (Dec 22, 2008)

BlueRider, you probably have a fuel tank from one of the cutoff saw models. I believe they're bigger but will still fit the chainsaw models.

What kind of fuel caps are on the 076 etc. saws? Are they the old-school bakelite-type that are on other older models my 041 and 090? If so, perhaps one could drill out the center and cut the finger tab off of a spare fuel tank cap, epoxy or JB Weld a 45° or 90° elbow into that, and then use a standard pipe cap or plug as a fuel cap on the elbow. I think I'd try a 45° first because you still might be able to fill in either position that way. I'm not really familiar with 076 design though. Of course, if one wanted it to be permanent one could just force a standard pipe thread into the softer magnesium of the tank and then JB the whole mess together to seal it. I've done this on less important things but don't think I'd want to do it to a saw!

I also like Glenn's idea of adding a second filler hole altogether, though I don't think I'd trust epoxy or JB alone to hold it together. If there were nice, flat mating surfaces on both the tank and around the new filler hole, I would try to rivet or bolt the two together with a bead of RTV gasket maker in between to seal it really well, and then epoxy or JB over the whole works to smooth it out & then paint so it doesn't look TOO out of place.


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## BobL (Dec 23, 2008)

Yep - I've thought about these ideas - rolled these over and over in my head and walked the aisles of many hardware and plumbing stores looking at fittings.

The idea I currently favor is a one does not use any glue, just drilling a hole in the flat side of the tank and fitting a narrower threaded spigot so that a nut can fit through the existing filler opening and be screwed onto the internal part of the spigot. 






That way I can use something like O-rings and provide a good seal that can be retightened as needed. My tank on my current saw is pretty beat up so I would do it to that one if I could get a replacement, just in case something goes pearshaped during the mod - I don't want to be left without a tank.


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## Brmorgan (Dec 23, 2008)

:agree2: 

I like that idea. Should be effective, yet very simple. Something like the strain reliefs used to anchor armored TECK cable to electrical boxes, *LIKE THIS*. A big one of those might actually work too, because many of them have standard pipe threads - just get rid of the expansion sleeve inside and replace the cap with a pipe cap. On the downside though, any with a decent size inner diameter can be bulky and are rather pricey - I paid over $50 for a 1" ID one to fit my welder extension cord.


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## BobL (Dec 23, 2008)

Brmorgan said:


> :agree2:
> 
> I like that idea. Should be effective, yet very simple. Something like the strain reliefs used to anchor armored TECK cable to electrical boxes, *LIKE THIS*. A big one of those might actually work too, because many of them have standard pipe threads - just get rid of the expansion sleeve inside and replace the cap with a pipe cap. On the downside though, any with a decent size inner diameter can be bulky and are rather pricey - I paid over $50 for a 1" ID one to fit my welder extension cord.



I was thinking of using 1" brass plumbing fittings but they don't have a lot of flat sealing surface so I might have to turn a flat onto their mating surfaces.


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## KiwiTony (Apr 24, 2009)

BobL said:


> Yep - I've thought about these ideas - rolled these over and over in my head and walked the aisles of many hardware and plumbing stores looking at fittings.
> 
> The idea I currently favor is a one does not use any glue, just drilling a hole in the flat side of the tank and fitting a narrower threaded spigot so that a nut can fit through the existing filler opening and be screwed onto the internal part of the spigot.
> 
> ...



Hey Bob,
I don't know if one of these right-anle fittings from, I believe, a TS 350 concrete saw would fit your tank.If so, the filling problem might be solved.
You would be able to insert your existing "breather" cap into the female section,and the male piece into your tank.Possibly a purpose built seal for correct alignment in the tank so the filler was in a vertical plane.
The thread is 30 x 2. Not common,but some hydraulic fittings (generally adaptors) are available with a 30x2 male end.
The attatched photo was copied from an ebay sellers listing.


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## BobL (Apr 24, 2009)

KiwiTony said:


> Hey Bob,
> I don't know if one of these right-anle fittings from, I believe, a TS 350 concrete saw would fit your tank.If so, the filling problem might be solved.
> You would be able to insert your existing "breather" cap into the female section,and the male piece into your tank.Possibly a purpose built seal for correct alignment in the tank so the filler was in a vertical plane.
> The thread is 30 x 2. Not common,but some hydraulic fittings (generally adaptors) are available with a 30x2 male end.
> The attatched photo was copied from an ebay sellers listing.



Thanks for the lead KT


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## BIG JAKE (Apr 24, 2009)

BobL said:


> Yep - I've thought about these ideas - rolled these over and over in my head and walked the aisles of many hardware and plumbing stores looking at fittings.
> 
> The idea I currently favor is a one does not use any glue, just drilling a hole in the flat side of the tank and fitting a narrower threaded spigot so that a nut can fit through the existing filler opening and be screwed onto the internal part of the spigot.
> 
> ...



Bob I think you are on the right track here. I made a 5 gallon oil tank using a brass bulkhead fitting and flat rubber gaskets each side. NPT fittings to ball valve to a hose barb for a spout and I use it to put drain oil from my vehicles into 1 gallon milk jugs/take to recycler. Don't believe I'd use o rings on a flat face though. I got the fitting from a specialty house that deals with fittings and makes hydraulic lines etc, or you could make a custom on a lathe. The hose barb ball valve combo could also be used to fill spill free if you have a flexible clear hose on your gas can I have one like that 1/2" dia. Shut ball valve when done filling and your on your way. You'd need a sleeve over the hose barb to keep it clean between fillings though. I don't know how venting would work this way maybe straight thread brass filler cap with gasket would be better


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## BobL (Apr 24, 2009)

Thanks Jake - this has gone to back burner because I have the 880 to play with for the last 3 months but I do want to get back to it. I think I will try the elbow method first because I don't want to drill holes in the tank if I can avoid it.


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## BIG JAKE (Apr 24, 2009)

BobL said:


> Thanks Jake - this has gone to back burner because I have the 880 to play with for the last 3 months but I do want to get back to it. I think I will try the elbow method first because I don't want to drill holes in the tank if I can avoid it.



Yeah I hear ya. You have the resources and machine availability to pull that off too. opcorn:


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