# Question about climbing spikes



## dblack (Jan 15, 2014)

Hey guys. I just started climbing a few days ago. I have experience with a chainsaw and own a helmet and chaps. I do not have "logging" boots just normal high top work/hunting boots. I bought two steel flip ropes with prusiks, a weaver saddle, and a set of Buckingham climbing spurs. So far I have only used them to go about 20 feet up in the tree. I have tried a 12" DBH Walnut, a 16" DBH Hickory, and a 15" DBH pine to get more comfortable climbing. All three where straight with no limbs. My problem is I keep having issues with that shanks of the spurs wanting to slip off the backs of my legs. I am not sure if maybe I have them on wrong or I am using the wrong form but either way this is killing my knees and shins to use them. Can you guys give me some advice on why the shanks want to move to the back of my calfs or any other tips on climbing with spurs? I have a removal job coming up that is why I purchased them. I included a picture.Thanks


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## Pager (Jan 15, 2014)

I can't quite tell from that view, but to me it looks like something is not strapped properly on the bottom near your feet. 


dblack said:


> Hey guys. I just started climbing a few days ago. I have experience with a chainsaw and own a helmet and chaps. I do not have "logging" boots just normal high top work/hunting boots. I bought two steel flip ropes with prusiks, a weaver saddle, and a set of Buckingham climbing spurs. So far I have only used them to go about 20 feet up in the tree. I have tried a 12" DBH Walnut, a 16" DBH Hickory, and a 15" DBH pine to get more comfortable climbing. All three where straight with no limbs. My problem is I keep having issues with that shanks of the spurs wanting to slip off the backs of my legs. I am not sure if maybe I have them on wrong or I am using the wrong form but either way this is killing my knees and shins to use them. Can you guys give me some advice on why the shanks want to move to the back of my calfs or any other tips on climbing with spurs? I have a removal job coming up that is why I purchased them. I included a picture.Thanks


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 15, 2014)

I double wrap my lower strap around the shank it keeps them from twisting.


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 15, 2014)

Are your pads backwards? 

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## 2dogs (Jan 16, 2014)

I would not climb in chaps to start with. Wrap the shank of the spur as mentioned. They look long that may just be the pic. I'm not familiar with those pads but I do not like cheapo pads that come with most spurs. Look as Weesspur's selection of pads for something better. I use Euc pads, I think that is the name, they can use two calf straps if I want to.

In all honesty you need professional instruction on how to climb. One mistake can change your life forever.


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## Pelorus (Jan 17, 2014)

Another photo or two would be helpful.
Those pads you have look none too comfortable. The old ones I use in photo aren't bad, and I also like the aluminum caps with the black foam rubber replaceable pads.
Make sure your spurs on on the right feet, and do the straps up snug. Too snug or too loose is gonna hurt.

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## 2treeornot2tree (Jan 17, 2014)

Looks like the pads are on backwards.

Those leg pads are the most uncomfortable. I use the steel insert buck wraps. Also make sure your boots have a steel insole and a logger heel. You can get a cheap pair of caralina boots with the steel insoles for around $100.

I would lose the chaps for climbing. Most saw injury are to your hands while cutting. 

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## 2treeornot2tree (Jan 17, 2014)

Another thing. These trees you are climbing. Are you cutting them down or just practice climbing them. If your not removing them then you shouldn't be spiking them as it damages the tree.

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## dblack (Jan 17, 2014)

They are Loblollys someone is paying me to remove. I wrapped them and I am more comfortable now. I am topping them and then chucking them down. Any tips for feeling more comfortable in the tree especially when the diameter gets smaller than 8"? Thanks for the replies


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## Pelorus (Jan 17, 2014)

On small dia. stuff I like to have my lanyard take a full wrap, ie. completely encircle the tree. If you happen to gaff out it will be less of a ride. You will become very mindful of gaff placement on small dia trees, esp. after you miss the tree and harpoon your opposite leg. Does your particular situation actually require climbing <8" dia trees / tops?


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## dblack (Jan 18, 2014)

Wrapping the lanyard twice is a great idea!!! Is there any other tips you can give me? So far I have been going about 3/4s of the way up and tying a pull line and then coming down a good bit and essentially felling the top portion of the tree. This isn't as safe as climbing to the entire top and cutting the top out and then chunking it down but I am really struggling to find comfort and confidence after I climb most of the tree and stand 40 feet in the air to climb another twenty feet where the trunk is even skinnier. This is my first climbing job and I am trying to be as safe as possible. I am hoping I can find someone to give me some in-person safety tips but in the mean time I need tips for feeling more confident once I get closer to the top. I find that as long as I am working and actively engaged in what I am doing (moving my flip rope and looking at my gaff placement) I normally don't worry. It's once I talk to someone on the ground or fiddle with trying to get the saw started that some fear begins to creep in being so high. Were you guys uncomfortable when you first started? By the way I am my intent is not to appear as some redneck with a chainsaw. I am currently at Virginia Tech studying urban forestry and I am a member of the ISA. I am looking to become an arborist in the future but this is a start and I am very open to knowledge and criticism. Thanks


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## 2treeornot2tree (Jan 18, 2014)

Looks like you have plenty of room to just cut the tree from the ground.

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## Pelorus (Jan 19, 2014)

I really like using a 6' polesaw (minus the blade) to help advance my line, reach hangers, etc. You wouldn't think 6' is a big deal, but it does save a lot of extra time. I fastened a quick link to the bottom of it that a biner will fit so it can clip on my saddle. Downside is that it will occasionally catch on limbs while climbing, and adds a bit more unwanted weight to the saddle. Recently bought a sidewinder telescoping rope retriever that can extend to 9', but collapses to around 2'. Haven't tried it yet. Will be useless for pulling hangers.
Get proficient using a throwbag by hand and with a BigShot. Will save you extra climbing on small stuff. 
Also, when climbing, take up at least one steel biner, and / or a throwbag to make line advancement easier. The extra weight will help a line throw farther, and retrieve easier. I usually just use a steel biner on a rigging / tag line, and grab it with my pole. Remove biner, tie a running bowline, and you are off to the races.


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## Hoowasat (Jan 19, 2014)

dblack said:


> ... once I talk to someone on the ground or fiddle with trying to get the saw started that some fear begins to creep in being so high. Were you guys uncomfortable when you first started?


Uncomfortable at first? Heck, yeah! That fear should never go away because it helps retain respect for being in that position. If you fall, it's gonna' hurt bad (unless you die in the process). That fear should keep your mind on what you're doing at the present time. It's way too dangerous to allow your mind to wander or be distracted. I'd be happy to go over the various processes with you if you get down to southeast VA.

Have you read "The Tree Climber's Companion"? Great book for beginners ... and I am no pro.


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## Pelorus (Jan 19, 2014)

The author of "The Tree Climber's Companion"; Jeff Jepson has recently published a new book: "Knots at Work - A Field Guide for the Modern Arborist"
It is an excellent, inexpensive resource on how to tie and employ arborist knots, written by an arborist.


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## dblack (Jan 19, 2014)

I picked up a copy of the Tree Climber's Campanion at the TCIA show in charlotte. The book is handy but there are still some things that help if someone shows you in person. At this point my only goal is to learn to do safe removals with pretty straight hard and softwoods for people at my church and close friends. I will purchase a throw line and probably a Big Shot in the future. I am also going to buy 200 feet of climbing line and a descender in case I need to get down from the tree quickly. Hoowasat, what's the possibility I could come to Newport News sometime in March and get some more instruction from you? My Christmas break is over so I will not have weeks of free time until late May again because of school so a weekend is all I really have. Thanks for the help guys


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## joezilla11 (Jan 19, 2014)

The money u spend on a descender could be put toward buying a hitch hiker and open a lot of possibilities for uses climbing ddrt or srt with your climbing line cinched.


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## Pelorus (Jan 19, 2014)

An aluminum Figure 8 is inexpensive and works fine for descending.
X2 on recommending you get a HH. (which works fine for descending).
I use my '8 for coming down an attached rigging line, (a practice considered by many to be a no no) like when we are going to pull down a spar that I've taken the top out of.


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## Hoowasat (Jan 20, 2014)

dblack said:


> Hoowasat, what's the possibility I could come to Newport News sometime in March and get some more instruction from you?


I have sent you a PM.



Pelorus said:


> An aluminum Figure 8 is inexpensive and works fine for descending.


+1 ... my first descender was a "Rescue 8" which is a larger Figure 8 with ears that assist with securing a position part way down a descent. A Firgure 8 can also be rigged as a friction device for lowering cut limbs.


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## Sean80 (Feb 14, 2014)

Just a little tip: Don't push yourself once you get fatigued. I know it's hard sometimes because you just want the tree on the ground, but you are more prone to make mistakes when your body and brain are tired. One little mistake when climbing can cause some serious problems.


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## Marcelo Chaluppe (Mar 8, 2014)

Hey guys,

Which spikes do you think are the best?
I am wondering to buy this gear and it would be great if I learn with
who have experience as I am a newbie also!

Any suggestions?

All the best ever!

Marcelo Chaluppe


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## dblack (Mar 10, 2014)

@Marcelo Chaluppe I bought Steel climbers with replaceable gaffs., two hip prusiks with steel snaps, two wire core 10 foot flip lines, and a saddle. later on i ended up buying a descender, 2 carabiners and 150 feet of climbing rope in case I need a way to quickly get down from a tree rather than spiking down. It will also save time if you just want to top the tree and pull the delimbed trunk over. Later on after i bought that stuff i bought a Big Shot with some throw line and a split tail so if need be I can climb with just the rope and not spike the tree (to keep from damaging it). So far I haven't needed anything else. I don't recommend buying the "spur climbing kits" online because they only come with one flip rope (which isn't good because it doesn't allow you to safely use a saw or go around a branch when going up the truck), because they don't come with rope or descender (it is always a good idea to be able to get down from the tree quickly as is always being connected in two places when using a saw) and because lastly they are normally more expensive than just picking out your own saddle and style of flip ropes. Just what I have learned. So far I have about 10-15 hours climbing experience and my best advice would be, take breaks when your body aches, do not climb if you are sick, dehydrated or remotely hungry, and often you won't be fast starting out at anything but being safe is way more important than being fast


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## Marcelo Chaluppe (Mar 10, 2014)

Hi dblack,

I got your tips!

I'm learning so much on this forum...


Keep going and climbing!


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## KenJax Tree (Mar 10, 2014)

Oh boyopcorn:


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## dblack (Mar 10, 2014)

Welcome @Marcelo Chaluppe. As I said I only have 10-15 hours climbing experience but that is just what I have learned in the little bit of time I have been doing it. My advice may not be correct and it is just an opinion of my experiences so far. Also make sure you get a copy of the Tree Climbers Companion. Good luck!


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## Marcelo Chaluppe (Mar 10, 2014)

Don't worry about it.

I have a copy of TCC and others books.
My gear is coming and as it arrives I'll be able to practice.

Fortunately I have some experience with chainsaws and other equipments as I
have my own landscape maintenance business.


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## dblack (Mar 11, 2014)

Marcelo Chaluppe said:


> Don't worry about it.
> 
> I have a copy of TCC and others books.
> My gear is coming and as it arrives I'll be able to practice.
> ...



I would not attempt to do any tree removals for landscaping customers without tree insurance. Just my one cent


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## Marcelo Chaluppe (Mar 11, 2014)

I need to verify if there is this kind of tree insurance in Brazil.


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## juttree (Mar 12, 2014)

Couple of tips for both of the new climbers.
1) when tied into the tree make sure you are around a strong, healthy limb or around the trunk itself.
2)unless you want to buy a new saw sooner than later always keep your saw attached to you. If you can't reach the cut, reposition. Its also helpful when you need to drop the saw and hold on for the ride.
3) Its a whole different beast using a saw in the tree compared to using it on the ground so always use your lanyard, buckstrap when making a cut. It only takes a split second to cut your rope.
4)As much as a top handle saw seems like a saw for one hand, its not. If you can't reach, reposition. If you need to hold a limb, cut with your chainsaw 3/4 of the way or so and the rest with your handsaw or tie it off. The saw doesn't know or care about the difference between your hand and the tree.
5) Take your time, speed will come with experience.
6) NEVER use your climbing line as a lowering or pull line. Remember, your life is hanging by that line that your dropping trunks on or shocking with a load.
7) Inspect your gear before a climb, especially your rope. You don't have to go crazy doing this, just a quick check of all the key points and running your rope through your hand and flaking it out (you'll feel the cuts if you have one).
8) Learn the right knot for the right job, practice, practice, practice.
9) Feeling more confident in the tree will come with experience. Learn to trust your ropes and spikes.
10) Remember, each wood reacts differently to different cuts.
Hope this helps a little bit atleast. Happy climbing and be safe.


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## Black Dogg (Mar 12, 2014)

Juttree,
thank you for the tips, Sir! They will help me a lot as I learn to climb!


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## Marcelo Chaluppe (Mar 12, 2014)

Juttree,

Your tips are so welcome!

As a rookie climber I am, information like that is always big learning.

All the best.


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## juttree (Mar 12, 2014)

Anytime guys, just be safe. I've heard of and known too many people that have gotten hurt or killed doing tree work. Its a very rewarding but also unforgiving profession.


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## BuckmasterStumpGrinding (Jun 9, 2014)

Don't punish yourself with cheap pads on your spurs. Even when you get them adjusted right they will kill your legs after a couple hours. I got climb right aluminum pads with the velcro straps for a little more than 100 and they made an 8 hour day feel better than 30 minutes on the old pads.


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## Matt81 (Jun 21, 2014)

BuckmasterStumpGrinding said:


> Don't punish yourself with cheap pads on your spurs. Even when you get them adjusted right they will kill your legs after a couple hours. I got climb right aluminum pads with the velcro straps for a little more than 100 and they made an 8 hour day feel better than 30 minutes on the old pads.




I got the velcro cushion wrap pads on my steel bucks. The difference to my old spikes with crappy pads is unbelievable! Having an extra distraction of uncomfortable and painful pads while being up the tree and not very experienced sounds like a bad idea to me.


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## Don johnson (Dec 26, 2018)

Im curious in the picture those r the only spikes ive ever used or had i cant find anything like em on internet they were given to me by my buddy to help me get the hazard trees without getting the lift they get the job done he used em as a very successful climbing freelancer but does anybody know if theyre actually for trees or what


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## anymanusa (Jan 16, 2019)

You shouldn't be climbing hardwoods in spikes. If you want to climb hard woods learn how to use a rope.


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## Ted Jenkins (Jan 16, 2019)

When I was in my 20's I bought a basic climbing set up and started using it right away. I am not the type to have heights bother me, but as I got older some times I realize I need to be more cautious. After several years I started noticing blisters on the sides of my legs. Then I realized that my climbing was not a matter of routine. So made a point to practice a little if I had no jobs which helped considerable. However the sides of my legs continued to be raw. The gaffs were moving all around tearing up my legs. One off my legs went through several surgeries and I am lucky to walk let alone climb. That particular side has maybe 10% sense of feeling and then I noticed how I was trying to compensate with my other leg. So bought a big bag of plaster of paris and made a mold of the side of my legs. with some fine tuning got the mold just right. Then made a negative mold from them which I fiber glassed. A little sanding and grinding was needed. The last step was put the gaffs through the formed holes and tighten. Within 15 minutes I had a winner. It still is completely comfortable with out any blisters. Since then I have noticed several companies that offer formed leg supports which might be a productive way to go. Now if I can just figure out not to have the effects of being older. Thanks


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