# Ripsaw questions



## parrisw (Aug 1, 2008)

Hey, I have a line on a Ripsaw, he also has a 044 that he uses with it. Are they specific as to what saw goes on it? Or can I bolt one of my huskies to it? What are they worth used?? Anything else to watch for on them?

Thanks


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## Al Weber (Aug 2, 2008)

They are not specific for the saw one can use with them but you may need some parts to adapt the Husky but I am not sure that is correct. The RipSaw manual says that Husky 365, 371 and 395 will fit. You can download the manual from the RipSaw website. I bought mine used (about 5 years old) a year ago for about 1/2 the current cost including the saw powerhead. It was in perfect shape; apparently having no recent use by an elderly gentleman but used gently when he did use it last. They are pretty simple units without too much to go wrong. Examine it for missing parts, stripped bolts, etc. but if it has been abused, you can likely see that as bent parts, etc. Make sure that all the guide rail parts are with it as they are not something you can find at the hardware store (except for knobs and bolts). The only major maintenance items are the bearings inside the covers. They can freeze up but are easily replaced and relatively inexpensive.


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## AndyR (Aug 2, 2008)

To the best of my knowledge, in order ro change a particular ripsaw from stihl powered to husky powered you would need to change the mounting block on the ripsaw for everything to line up properly. There is a list of saws on this page that will work-but the ripsaws are set up differently for the stihls and huskies, I think. I think this list isn't conclusive either, there are probably other models that would fit it.
http://www.ripsaw.com/ripsaw.html

There's some good browsing/info on their website.

If you get it give the guy at SIR a call, he was really helpful with my questions.

For price, they go for around $1600 new. I'm guessing you might get a good deal from someone selling locally as opposed to on ebay. Mine came with an 036 stihl, 3 guide beams, the carriage unit (which I probably won't use until I can set it up somewhere more permanently), and a bunch of hardware. that was all for $1300.00 shipped. I've bought blades and some small parts for it and done a little work on the 036-nothing major. It's all ready to use, I just need to find the time and some more reasonable weather (supposed to be 95? today) to do so.

Good luck, and maybe do a search for ripsaw on here as well there is a lot of info.

Andy


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## parrisw (Aug 2, 2008)

Thanks guys. Its an old guy, that apparently cant use the stuff anymore. But I think some of it may have been sitting outside. We shall see, I should go on monday to see it.


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## Zodiac45 (Aug 2, 2008)

I believe that the saw needs too have an inboard clutch with a spur gear type sprocket too work on the Ripsaw. Woodshop could tell you for sure though.


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## woodshop (Aug 2, 2008)

Zodiac45 said:


> I believe that the saw needs too have an inboard clutch with a spur gear type sprocket too work on the Ripsaw. Woodshop could tell you for sure though.



Ripsaws come in two flavors, Husky and Stihl... has to do with the way the oil hole lines up with the mount on the Ripsaw, which lubricates the Ripsaw gears. You can not mount a Stihl saw on a Ripsaw made for a Husky, or the other way around. You CAN buy that cast aluminum mounting block and swap it out, but it is pricey, and it would be cheaper to get a used saw to fit whatever block is already on it. You can get away with as little as a 50cc saw for the Ripsaw, as it takes much less power to push that blade through the cant than a chain. A 60cc saw like the Stihl MS361 is perfect, as much power as you will need. A bigger saw only makes the whole thing that much heavier, and is not really needed. On small cants, like 8 inches or less, with a new sharp blade, I don't even run the chainsaw full bore, as you can walk it down that cant almost as fast as you can walk at that thickness.


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## Zodiac45 (Aug 2, 2008)

woodshop said:


> Ripsaws come in two flavors, Husky and Stihl... has to do with the way the oil hole lines up with the mount on the Ripsaw, which lubricates the Ripsaw gears. You can not mount a Stihl saw on a Ripsaw made for a Husky, or the other way around. You CAN buy that cast aluminum mounting block and swap it out, but it is pricey, and it would be cheaper to get a used saw to fit whatever block is already on it. You can get away with as little as a 50cc saw for the Ripsaw, as it takes much less power to push that blade through the cant than a chain. A 60cc saw like the Stihl MS361 is perfect, as much power as you will need. A bigger saw only makes the whole thing that much heavier, and is not really needed. On small cants, like 8 inches or less, with a new sharp blade, I don't even run the chainsaw full bore, as you can walk it down that cant almost as fast as you can walk at that thickness.



That makes sense about the oil holes lining up. But I noticed that the Huskie saws that they list are inboard clutch models? And of course they show the spur gear as needed too drive the ripsaw.


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## woodshop (Aug 3, 2008)

Zodiac45 said:


> That makes sense about the oil holes lining up. But I noticed that the Huskie saws that they list are inboard clutch models? And of course they show the spur gear as needed too drive the ripsaw.



Good point, not sure... as zodiac says you do have to replace the sprocket with a spur gear that they supply, but it's a standard spur gear you can get from Bailey's etc. The fact that it was inboard wouldn't effect things, the gear would still stick out as far as before and connect to the Ripsaw. 

Years ago I did look into buying a second cast aluminum connector section on my Ripsaw so I could swap it out and use a Husky, but as I said, it was expensive, and swapping it out was not a particularly easy task so I dropped the idea.


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## parrisw (Aug 3, 2008)

Ok, I went and looked at it, its a little rough, since its been sitting around, some aluminum corrosion on the band pully's, I think it can all be cleaned up easy. He want's to sell it with 2 powerheads. 1 044 and 1 046mag, boths saws look like very low time, he figures the 046 had only just been started to make sure it ran thats it. He wants $1000 for everything. Seems like a good deal? I think I will get it.


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## dustytools (Aug 3, 2008)

parrisw said:


> Ok, I went and looked at it, its a little rough, since its been sitting around, some aluminum corrosion on the band pully's, I think it can all be cleaned up easy. He want's to sell it with 2 powerheads. 1 044 and 1 046mag, boths saws look like very low time, he figures the 046 had only just been started to make sure it ran thats it. He wants $1000 for everything. Seems like a good deal? I think I will get it.



Sounds like one helluva deal! Go for it.


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## Trigger-Time (Aug 3, 2008)

dustytools said:


> Sounds like one helluva deal! Go for it.



+1


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## woodshop (Aug 3, 2008)

Trigger-Time said:


> +1



Two saws that size in working order and a Ripsaw (assuming complete with guide bar and brackets etc) for a grand... that's way less than half price. Deal if you don't mind tweaking things a bit maybe... one never knows in deals like this how the equipment was taken care of, bearings etc, alignment of parts etc. But you sure can't beat the price. In fact, at that price if you're handy with tools, you can pretty much fix anything broke and still come out ahead as long as it isn't major.


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## parrisw (Aug 3, 2008)

Yes everything is there, I had a good look, the alu beam, all the attachment stuff, the supports for the end of the log. The saws too are in real nice shape.


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## parrisw (Aug 3, 2008)

Another question. He has at least an extra 6 blades for it, which he says have never been used, but they are all rusty. Should I just run them, and hope they will clean up when they go through the wood? Or soak them in something like Diesel?? And how to sharpen and set the blades?


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## Al Weber (Aug 4, 2008)

I had the same rusty blades when I bought my used RipSaw. They weren't too bad so I just ran them and they cleaned up quickly. If they are real bad, soak them or spray them with WD40 and wipe them down first to keep the rust out of the saw. The RipSaw manual gives directions for sharpening as does a decal on the saw itself. They are pretty easy. I just use a 5/32" diamond stone in a rotary tool. I can get two and sometimes three sharpenings before they break. 

Go for it. The saws alone are worth more than the asking price.


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## parrisw (Aug 4, 2008)

Got all the stuff today. He must of bought extra sections of the guide beam, cause there is 5 of them there. Pics to come later.


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## parrisw (Aug 4, 2008)

Got it all taken apart, cleaned up. One thing I cant get undone is the guide blocks, the little allen head bolts that hold the little brass blocks. I got them soaking in WD40 now, maybe a little heat will get them loose.

One question, how do you join the rails together? The instructions don't make much sense.


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## woodshop (Aug 4, 2008)

parrisw said:


> Got it all taken apart, cleaned up. One thing I cant get undone is the guide blocks, the little allen head bolts that hold the little brass blocks. I got them soaking in WD40 now, maybe a little heat will get them loose.
> 
> One question, how do you join the rails together? The instructions don't make much sense.


They are designed with internal expansion bolts... you screw those allen heads in the holes on the side of the beam to loosen them, slide a section together and then tighten the same bolts which tightens the mechanism and it is then a solid beam. That way there is nothing sticking out to catch on. It only comes with 2 five foot sections so if there are 5 you got a deal. You can mill up to a 25ft long board/cant if you so choose if you hooked them all together and supported them along the log. 

More questions... just ask.


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## parrisw (Aug 4, 2008)

woodshop said:


> They are designed with internal expansion bolts... you screw those allen heads in the holes on the side of the beam to loosen them, slide a section together and then tighten the same bolts which tightens the mechanism and it is then a solid beam. That way there is nothing sticking out to catch on. It only comes with 2 five foot sections so if there are 5 you got a deal. You can mill up to a 25ft long board/cant if you so choose if you hooked them all together and supported them along the log.
> 
> More questions... just ask.



Cool, that makes sense. But they were also talking about supporting pins or something in the manual when joining the sections? When milling a long beam, when you support the guide beam how do you make sure it straight? Just eyeball it? 

I still cant get the dam screws undone for the blade guide blocks. GRRRR


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## AndyR (Aug 4, 2008)

parrisw said:


> Got all the stuff today. He must of bought extra sections of the guide beam, cause there is 5 of them there. Pics to come later.



The guy you bought that from must have been cutting beams...I can't imagine why you would need other lumber that long (floor joists maybe). Mine came with three guide beams and I was pretty happy about that.

Congrats, sounds like you got a good deal.


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## parrisw (Aug 4, 2008)

Ya, maybe. 

One other question. Now about attaching the adjustment bed? What was there with it was a plastic knob for tightening and undoing, but its a large knob and hits the muffler of the saw??? Also when fully tightened down, it doesn't hold the bed tight against the frame?


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## parrisw (Aug 4, 2008)

I think I may sorta have the mounting sorta figured, I looked at the manual again. Whats the purpose of the guide finger?


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## parrisw (Aug 4, 2008)

Ok, I got it figured, its got a really long threaded rod, that goes on the side closest to the saw. Im just missing the sleeve that goes over it, have to find something that works for that.


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## parrisw (Aug 4, 2008)

One other thing, its kinda noisy, is that the way they are. I ran it with the saw on it. Kinda sounds like a rattle trap?


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## woodshop (Aug 5, 2008)

parrisw said:


> I think I may sorta have the mounting sorta figured, I looked at the manual again. Whats the purpose of the guide finger?



That guide finger keeps the far end of the Ripsaw from pulling itself into the side of the log when milling, especially when starting out. As I've posted before, over the years I've taken it off and just use my hand/fingers holding on to that large black knob to kinda guide it down the log myself. That takes a little getting used to though. 

Noise... there is some gear noise, and blade running around the wheels noise when it's running, but shouldn't be all that much. If it's rattling excessively, check other connections and find out where. Mine doesn't rattle, it vibrates just like the chainsaw does, but there shouldn't be anything lose to rattle.


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## parrisw (Aug 5, 2008)

woodshop said:


> That guide finger keeps the far end of the Ripsaw from pulling itself into the side of the log when milling, especially when starting out. As I've posted before, over the years I've taken it off and just use my hand/fingers holding on to that large black knob to kinda guide it down the log myself. That takes a little getting used to though.
> 
> Noise... there is some gear noise, and blade running around the wheels noise when it's running, but shouldn't be all that much. If it's rattling excessively, check other connections and find out where. Mine doesn't rattle, it vibrates just like the chainsaw does, but there shouldn't be anything lose to rattle.



Ya, I think it's just a bit of vibration. 

OK, I NEED HELP, I got it all running, cut a few boards. The cuts are FREAKIN REALLY WAVY, I'm talking like waves you can surf on. Probably like 3/8" high waves. The blade looks to have good set, not sure how sharp. The guide blocks are a little loose, those could go tighter? Could that do it?

So I went back to the trusty Alaskan to get some work done, then one of the freakin U-clamps broke. Geeze, I can't catch a break today.
Many thanks.

Will


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## parrisw (Aug 6, 2008)

Went to the local tool place that does allot of bandsaw stuff, and ordered a couple of new blades. They make them there, I guess they have bulk rolls of bandsaw blades, and make up the right lengths. $20 each.


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## woodshop (Aug 6, 2008)

parrisw said:


> Went to the local tool place that does allot of bandsaw stuff, and ordered a couple of new blades. They make them there, I guess they have bulk rolls of bandsaw blades, and make up the right lengths. $20 each.



Be careful... if not the EXACT correct length it's hard to get tension right from blade to blade. Make sure teeth/angle etc are same or who knows what kind of results you might get. Also, if ordered from S.I.R (Ripsaw folks) they are only $17 per blade to your door if order 12. I've been told by others in this forum that there are other places online that sell them even cheaper than that. I've not tried them yet since the Ripsaw factory ones have worked so well that I've not tried them yet. I know buying 12 at a time is a chunck of money, but trust me, you will use them.


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## Nikko (Aug 6, 2008)

When you use wavy and bandsaw in the same sentence it usually means a dull blade. Pretty sure a new one will get you going.

Nice score on the saw!

Nikko


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## woodshop (Aug 6, 2008)

parrisw said:


> Ya, I think it's just a bit of vibration.
> 
> OK, I NEED HELP, I got it all running, cut a few boards. The cuts are FREAKIN REALLY WAVY, I'm talking like waves you can surf on. Probably like 3/8" high waves. The blade looks to have good set, not sure how sharp. The guide blocks are a little loose, those could go tighter? Could that do it?
> 
> ...



If the blade tension is not high enough even a sharp new blade will give you wavy cuts. Of course a dull blade will do that also. A dull blade that is also not tensioned properly is just a lesson in frustration.


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## parrisw (Aug 6, 2008)

Thanks I'll try these, he measured it and came out with 89.5" I'll let ya know how it all goes.


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## parrisw (Aug 7, 2008)

Well got the new blades today. The look nice. But one slight problem. The teeth go in the opposite direction? DAMIT, was hoping to try it out today.


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## mossywyatt (Aug 8, 2008)

you have the blade inside out


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## woodshop (Aug 8, 2008)

mossywyatt said:


> you have the blade inside out



...correct, flip it inside out. 

It's OK, in my haste I put a chain on backwards one time and tried to cut with it.


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## parrisw (Aug 8, 2008)

woodshop said:


> ...correct, flip it inside out.
> 
> It's OK, in my haste I put a chain on backwards one time and tried to cut with it.



Yes, thanks, I got it figured. 

Ok, more questions. 

Got the new blade on, it cuts very well. But it still giving me the odd wave in it, much smaller wave. I got 2 decent cuts out of it, another 2 not so good. How do you set the guide blocks. Ive seen to use two pieces of paper above and below the blade, and I've seen to use 1 piece. What to do. Also it seems when I get a wave in the cut, most of the time its on a knot? 

Also the finger guide to prevent the saw from pulling itself into the wood. What if your cutting wide planks, it wont work? and when just using the beam laying ontop of the cant without the end blocks, it only adjusts barely down enough to touch the cant, and wants to hop over and pull the whole works off the cant. 

Sure hope I can get this sorted soon. I'm making a bunch of waste lumber.


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## scottr (Aug 9, 2008)

Will, from some of your previous descriptions of your Ripsaw it sounds like you have the older model like mine. First mine is also the 044 model and it vibrates a lot, second proper blade tension is to torque the 3/4" tension nut until the indicator just lines up to the white mark then back off about one half of a turn. If you don't back off the the tension nut you'll be breaking blakes prematurely. The dimension plate will slide up to the top of the throat to give you a 9" depth of cut. Have you downloaded the owners manual from the Ripsaw website?


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## parrisw (Aug 9, 2008)

scottr said:


> Will, from some of your previous descriptions of your Ripsaw it sounds like you have the older model like mine. First mine is also the 044 model and it vibrates a lot, second proper blade tension is to torque the 3/4" tension nut until the indicator just lines up to the white mark then back off about one half of a turn. If you don't back off the the tension nut you'll be breaking blakes prematurely. The dimension plate will slide up to the top of the throat to give you a 9" depth of cut. Have you downloaded the owners manual from the Ripsaw website?



I've looked through the manual. yes. It is the older model, it was purchased in the mid 90's. I'll try to reset the tension. Could that be causing wavy cuts? Anything else to check?


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## woodshop (Aug 9, 2008)

parrisw said:


> I've looked through the manual. yes. It is the older model, it was purchased in the mid 90's. I'll try to reset the tension. Could that be causing wavy cuts? Anything else to check?



Thanks Scottr for chiming in here. 

If your cuts are wavy, either you have a dull blade or you don't have enough blade tension. The guide blocks, in my personal opinion, unless they are WAY opened up, are not your problem. I have not reset mine in the entire life of my Ripsaw, many thousands of bd ft of lumber. Yes you will be more apt to run into a little wavy cut when you hit a hard knot, but my experience has been that that only happens when my blade is starting to get dull. A new blade and proper tension will blow through even a hard knot. I have found that it sometimes helps to feed the saw at a slight angle through a knot like you are describing when my blade starts to get dull, and that often helps.

Yes, that guide finger does have to be taken off when milling very wide boards, like 12-14 inches. This is the reason I took it off and use my hand/fingers wrapped around that large black knob for all my milling.

The Ripsaw, like ALL shop type equipment (and I have a shop full so I can speak from experience) takes some tweaking and learning the ropes. Common sense, some trial and error and patience are in order. Tension... as scottr says, use that tension guide on top of the Ripsaw. If you are getting wavy cuts, crank it up half or quarter turn and try again (all other things staying same). It's a mechanical device and does respond in logical manner if you take the time to work through problems step by step. Worse case scenario is either you will break the blade, or I've found more likely you will crank it so hard that you will start to torque the whole Ripsaw frame to the point where the blade won't track correctly. I have done that several times, and that's a definite sign that you have it too tight and need to back off a bit. 

Read the manual... then reread the manual and take it a step at a time. You can also call Ripsaw or email them with questions.


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## scottr (Aug 9, 2008)

parrisw said:


> I've looked through the manual. yes. It is the older model, it was purchased in the mid 90's. I'll try to reset the tension. Could that be causing wavy cuts? Anything else to check?



Yes, if the band does not have enough tension it can cause wavy cuts. Pushing heavy on the saw could also cause wavy cuts. Remember to try not to over feed the saw when you come to knots. You are using a ripping blade to make a cross cut when sawing a knot.


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## scottr (Aug 9, 2008)

parrisw said:


> Yes, thanks, I got it figured.
> 
> Ok, more questions.
> 
> ...



Will, the guide adjustment directions that came with my old 1996 Ripsaw says to place the paper between the blade and the top carbide block then using vise grips or pliers squeeze the carbides together and tighten the screws.


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## scottr (Aug 9, 2008)

woodshop said:


> Thanks Scottr for chiming in here.
> 
> If your cuts are wavy, either you have a dull blade or you don't have enough blade tension. The guide blocks, in my personal opinion, unless they are WAY opened up, are not your problem. I have not reset mine in the entire life of my Ripsaw, many thousands of bd ft of lumber. Yes you will be more apt to run into a little wavy cut when you hit a hard knot, but my experience has been that that only happens when my blade is starting to get dull. A new blade and proper tension will blow through even a hard knot. I have found that it sometimes helps to feed the saw at a slight angle through a knot like you are describing when my blade starts to get dull, and that often helps.
> 
> ...



Dave, the guide finger on my Ripsaw is curved so part of it sits inside the frame and allows a 14" width of cut. It is made of metal that is about 3/16" thick. I think your saw is about the same design as mine.


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## parrisw (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks again guys for the help. The last board I did, cut beautiful, until the end of the 12' run, and had one slight wave. I think I may have been pushing too hard on the saw. The blade feels very tight, its a brand new blades so its quite sharp. The tension, I did just until it met the edge of the white mark, should I go more? I'll reset the guide blocks with 1 piece of paper, and make a slower cut next time. Thanks again guys this site is great!!!


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## scottr (Aug 10, 2008)

parrisw said:


> Thanks again guys for the help. The last board I did, cut beautiful, until the end of the 12' run, and had one slight wave. I think I may have been pushing too hard on the saw. The blade feels very tight, its a brand new blades so its quite sharp. The tension, I did just until it met the edge of the white mark, should I go more? I'll reset the guide blocks with 1 piece of paper, and make a slower cut next time. Thanks again guys this site is great!!!



Will, when I first started milling with my Ripsaw and tightened the tension bolt so the indicator lines up with the whiteline the band was so tight that it was almost impossible to pull the band to check alignment. If you have the tension indicator adjusted per the manual then tighten to the white line then back off about one half of a turn. Don't try to tighten more or you'll be breaking bands prematurely. Member FLHT01 has a tension meter and can give you more details if you ask him. What bands are you running?


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## parrisw (Aug 10, 2008)

scottr said:


> Will, when I first started milling with my Ripsaw and tightened the tension bolt so the indicator lines up with the whiteline the band was so tight that it was almost impossible to pull the band to check alignment. If you have the tension indicator adjusted per the manual then tighten to the white line then back off about one half of a turn. Don't try to tighten more or you'll be breaking bands prematurely. Member FLHT01 has a tension meter and can give you more details if you ask him. What bands are you running?



I had a couple bands made up at the local saw shop, they look excatly the same, same tooth count, same size blade, and length. They measured one of the old ones, and made new ones to that measurment.


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## woodshop (Aug 10, 2008)

scottr said:


> Dave, the guide finger on my Ripsaw is curved so part of it sits inside the frame and allows a 14" width of cut. It is made of metal that is about 3/16" thick. I think your saw is about the same design as mine.



Scottr, I think you are correct and I was wrong about that guide finger. It's been years since I've had it on my saw... I just seem to remember it got in the way when milling the full 14 inch width, but again that was years (and literally thousands of bd ft) ago. I will also say that for smaller logs or cants, and especially short ones under 4 ft with little mass, my method of holding the saw against the guide beam with my hand wrapped around that knob (instead of using that guide finger) is difficult to do. It requires some finesse when initially feeding the Ripsaw into the cant, kinda pushing on the Ripsaw in the right direction to counter the blade pull, while at the same time tweaking the trigger so as not to grab wood too aggressively at first. 

Not wanting to monopolize this thread, but hoping maybe other or future Ripsaw owners can benefit from these questions.


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## AndyR (Aug 10, 2008)

woodshop said:


> Scottr, I think you are correct and I was wrong about that guide finger. It's been years since I've had it on my saw... I just seem to remember it got in the way when milling the full 14 inch width, but again that was years (and literally thousands of bd ft) ago. I will also say that for smaller logs or cants, and especially short ones under 4 ft with little mass, my method of holding the saw against the guide beam with my hand wrapped around that knob (instead of using that guide finger) is difficult to do. It requires some finesse when initially feeding the Ripsaw into the cant, kinda pushing on the Ripsaw in the right direction to counter the blade pull, while at the same time tweaking the trigger so as not to grab wood too aggressively at first.
> 
> Not wanting to monopolize this thread, but hoping maybe other or future Ripsaw owners can benefit from these questions.



I found yesterday, and this may seem obvious, I had a cut in which the left edge of the board had some wane(?) or bark that didn't get stripped off making the cant and so was a little narrower or rounded on the top edge. That guide finger wedged into that slightly narrower top edge of the board and messed up a short section of the cut. I had to start over. It wasn't a big deal but is something I'll watch for next time.


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## parrisw (Aug 10, 2008)

woodshop said:


> Not wanting to monopolize this thread, but hoping maybe other or future Ripsaw owners can benefit from these questions.



Yes, I agree, post all you like here, it helps me allot. Let's keep it going. There doesn't seem to be many Ripsaw users on here? Only 3 of us particapating in this thread!!


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## scottr (Aug 10, 2008)

parrisw said:


> I had a couple bands made up at the local saw shop, they look excatly the same, same tooth count, same size blade, and length. They measured one of the old ones, and made new ones to that measurment.



Will, is the set on your new blade left, right, left, right, raker?


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## parrisw (Aug 10, 2008)

scottr said:


> Will, is the set on your new blade left, right, left, right, raker?



AHHH, now you just talking jibberish to me. Whats all that mean?


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## scottr (Aug 10, 2008)

parrisw said:


> AHHH, now you just talking jibberish to me. Whats all that mean?



The set on a saw blade is the tooth bent to the left or right and a raker is not bent.


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## parrisw (Aug 10, 2008)

scottr said:


> The set on a saw blade is the tooth bent to the left or right and a raker is not bent.



I'll look at it and report back.


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## flht01 (Aug 19, 2008)

*Ripsaw Blades*

I've haven't been on the site much lately but happened by and noticed the thread. Looks like your getting advice from some of the most experienced Ripsaw users around.  

I did try a different blade mfg on my ripsaw and had problems with wavy cuts. I totally agree with Woodshop about oem blades and if it were me, I'd use them to establish a baseline to tune and compare to. I had much better results with the oem blades and considering the amount of work involved with csm style milling, I think they're worth it.

Looking forward to seeing your results.

Kevin

--------
Just went back and reread most of this thread. One more comment I'd like to make about wavy cuts. If you run the ripsaw (or csm) down the top of a cant that has a small wave or dip it will just continue to magnify on each cut regardless how well tuned the saw is. I always cut off the top of a guide beam (every pass) when trying to get straight cuts. I built a few z shaped brackets out of flashing to help keep the beam from sliding off the cant.


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## RAS323 (Aug 20, 2008)

parrisw said:


> Got all the stuff today. He must of bought extra sections of the guide beam, cause there is 5 of them there. Pics to come later.



Congrats on the new saws. 

I have absolutely no advise to give, but where are the pics???


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## parrisw (Aug 30, 2008)

Ok, guys, sorry it took so long to get back to ya. Ive been away on holidays. Ok about the set. Looks like the old orignal blades go. right left right left raker. The new ones I got go right left raker right left raker. So they are different? Is this maybe part of my problem?


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## scottr (Sep 2, 2008)

Will, I don't think that using a different tooth configuration will cause the third cut to be wavy. If you were cutting dry wood and creating a lot of blade heat in the first two cuts the tension might lessen and cause the third cut to be off. Have you reset the guides per the manual? A question that I have to ask is why did you want to adjust the blade guides before you made a cut with this saw?


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## parrisw (Sep 2, 2008)

scottr said:


> Will, I don't think that using a different tooth configuration will cause the third cut to be wavy. If you were cutting dry wood and creating a lot of blade heat in the first two cuts the tension might lessen and cause the third cut to be off. Have you reset the guides per the manual? A question that I have to ask is why did you want to adjust the blade guides before you made a cut with this saw?



Because the blade that was in the saw when I got it was real rusty, and wouldn't run through the guides properly, so I loosened them off, hoping the blade would clean up, but it never did. So I readjusted when installing the new blade. When you adjust yours do you use one piece of paper? Also it doesnt seem to cut as fast as some people say they do? I have no Idea on what else to try if the blade is not the problem?? The last board I did it cut real nice until the end of the board?? Have no Idea on what happened, I tried doing that one a real slow cut.


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## scottr (Sep 2, 2008)

Will, many times when I've changed a band it was necessary to file the mushroom off of the back edge of the band to remove it. A rusty band will still slide through the guides and the carbide will clean off the rust. I have never had to adjust the guides on my Ripsaw. Are you running a .025" thick silicone steel band and are you cutting green wood? Something that I remember from the owners manual was that it's important to find a good feed speed for the particular wood that you are cutting. I often look at the sawdust when sawing to adjust the feed and rpm. I've cut softwood and when I actually lowered rpm and angled the saw there was a noticable increase in feed rate. Sometimes the angle of feed makes a big difference. It does not take a lot of forward pressure on the dimension plate knob to saw. I remember the specs for the 044 Ripsaw to be 12'/min in softwood and 9'/min in hardwood. It was also advertised as a saw that wont slow down. It's going to take some time sawing to get the feel for feed rate.


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## parrisw (Sep 3, 2008)

scottr said:


> Will, many times when I've changed a band it was necessary to file the mushroom off of the back edge of the band to remove it. A rusty band will still slide through the guides and the carbide will clean off the rust. I have never had to adjust the guides on my Ripsaw. Are you running a .025" thick silicone steel band and are you cutting green wood? Something that I remember from the owners manual was that it's important to find a good feed speed for the particular wood that you are cutting. I often look at the sawdust when sawing to adjust the feed and rpm. I've cut softwood and when I actually lowered rpm and angled the saw there was a noticable increase in feed rate. Sometimes the angle of feed makes a big difference. It does not take a lot of forward pressure on the dimension plate knob to saw. I remember the specs for the 044 Ripsaw to be 12'/min in softwood and 9'/min in hardwood. It was also advertised as a saw that wont slow down. It's going to take some time sawing to get the feel for feed rate.




Hey, not sure what you mean by the mushroom on the back edge of the band? Is the back edge actually flared out a bit? I think the blade is 025 but not sure. Wood isn't green its dry Cedar. I was cutting full out rpm on the saw. Should I slow it down a bit? 

Thanks for your time.

Will


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## scottr (Sep 3, 2008)

Yes, the mushroom or flaring on the back of the band is caused by the roller behind the band. I've never cut any cedar with my ripsaw so I can't advise on the rpm. Can you measure the thickness of your band with a micrometer?


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## parrisw (Sep 3, 2008)

scottr said:


> Yes, the mushroom or flaring on the back of the band is caused by the roller behind the band. I've never cut any cedar with my ripsaw so I can't advise on the rpm. Can you measure the thickness of your band with a micrometer?



Yes I can measure it, I'll do it tomorrow.


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## parrisw (Sep 5, 2008)

I measured the blade out at .026


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## scottr (Sep 5, 2008)

That's the correct thickness. Can you get a fresh log to see if the band will cut true? My guess is that your semi sharp band will cut true in green wood but is marginal in the dry cedar. Have you set the guide blocks per the manual yet?


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## parrisw (Sep 6, 2008)

Semi sharp? Its new, should be very sharp? When I set the guide blocks I think I used one piece of paper. Cant remember now. When setting the guide blocks, with one piece of paper, which block do you put the paper in, then where do you set the other guide block first?


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## parrisw (Sep 6, 2008)

Also Cedar is very soft, why would it not cut well in that, as apposed to green wood.


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## woodshop (Sep 6, 2008)

parrisw said:


> Also Cedar is very soft, why would it not cut well in that, as apposed to green wood.



I'm assuming you have enough tension? Of all the things that can screw up a Ripsaw session, that is often the main culprit I've found. Not enough tension and you get wavy cuts and blade wanders all over the place, too much tension and you start to actually pull the saw out of alignment and the blade starts to go off track. In an extreme case (yes I have done this in my haste) if you have way way too much tension it causes the blade to start coming off the wheel to the point where it digs into the aluminum cover. Ya have to really crank it to get to that point though. As the blade starts to get dull and starts to wander, I found if I increase the tension a bit I can stretch a little more life out of it. I've pushed that way too far a few times though. Also, that is hard on the mill so not a good idea to make that a common practice.


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## parrisw (Sep 6, 2008)

Dam well how do I know where the right tension is? I hate wasting loads of wood testing? I've done it like the manual said, to the white line.


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## woodshop (Sep 6, 2008)

parrisw said:


> Dam well how do I know where the right tension is? I hate wasting loads of wood testing? I've done it like the manual said, to the white line.



Yes, but that white line is found by mechanical means, it's a machine like anything else. All that had to have happened is have that long lever banged out of place at one time, bending that lever and that white line is out of adjustment. Mine had been bent out of place many times over the years and I've had to re-adjust it. Some guys have an actual blade tension meter, but I don't, so here is what I do when I think it needs adjusting. 

1)start with a brand new blade

2)tighten it to where it starts to feel and look tight. Ballpark is after you put a new blade in and before you start to tighten it, turn on the saw and rev it a bit, the blade will not turn since it is not tight enough on wheels. Turn that big tension nut about 2 full turns after the Ripsaw starts to turn the blade. I use a ratchet and socket and turn it one half turn at a time so I can keep track. Make sure the blade is tracking correctly as you do this by peeking in the end of the mill and looking at where it is sitting on the wheel. If when you put the new blade in you set it on the wheel correctly and the saw tracking is set correctly the blade will find its proper track as soon as there is enough tension for it to start to turn. 

3)then pick a log that is not too hard or too easy... something like cherry or walnut or doug fir and take a slice. If wavy cut crank another half turn till you get good boards. Should only take couple boards.

4)at that point adjust that tension meter arm till it's right on that red line. 

What I do from that point is rarely even look at that tension meter... every time I tension and untension the thing I simply turn it 4 full turns (8 half turns with the ratchet) at a time in or out... and I know it is back at the right spot. Very hard wood or wood with lots of tight knots will need more tension and I crank the thing another turn or so if needed. It is something you get a feel for after milling with it for a while. It used to frustrate me in the beginning, and now it's almost second nature and I can tell whether it needs more or less tension and adjust it thus. Once you set it though, you can rely on that white line if you want, and just keep it there.


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## parrisw (Sep 6, 2008)

Ok, thanks allot. 

Will


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## Dennis_Peacock (Sep 6, 2008)

Excellent thread......very educational. I'm interested, so keep it coming.


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## scottr (Sep 7, 2008)

parrisw said:


> Semi sharp? Its new, should be very sharp? When I set the guide blocks I think I used one piece of paper. Cant remember now. When setting the guide blocks, with one piece of paper, which block do you put the paper in, then where do you set the other guide block first?



Will, if your dry cedar is knotty like the western red cedar and eastern red cedar that I've planed then you blade is now semi sharp. You can take it out into the sunlight and look at it through a 10X loupe for verification. For adjusting the carbide guides the instructions on page 11 of the Ripsaw manual states to loosen the screws, place the paper between the band and the top carbide block, squeeze the blocks together with pliers or vise grips , then tighten the screws. I would think that it would be important for the band to be tensioned although it does not say in the manual. Here is the updated manual. http://www.ripsaw.com/manuals/ripsawmanual.pdf In the old manual there was a explanation as to calibrating the tension indicator and it basically said to take the tension off the band and adjust the indicator so that it's parallel to the bending beam under it.


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## parrisw (Sep 7, 2008)

scottr said:


> Will, if your dry cedar is knotty like the western red cedar and eastern red cedar that I've planed then you blade is now semi sharp. You can take it out into the sunlight and look at it through a 10X loupe for verification. For adjusting the carbide guides the instructions on page 11 of the Ripsaw manual states to loosen the screws, place the paper between the band and the top carbide block, squeeze the blocks together with pliers or vise grips , then tighten the screws. I would think that it would be important for the band to be tensioned although it does not say in the manual. Here is the updated manual. http://www.ripsaw.com/manuals/ripsawmanual.pdf In the old manual there was a explanation as to calibrating the tension indicator and it basically said to take the tension off the band and adjust the indicator so that it's parallel to the bending beam under it.



Ahh ok, thanks for clearing that up. I'll check out the updated manual. 

Actually the guy at the shop where I got the band's, said that Cedar is the worst for dulling a blade.


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## parrisw (Sep 14, 2008)

Ok, I did some more cutting yesterday. I reset the guide blocks, what a pain to get at the screws for it. Readjusted the tension, its definatly cutting better, cut some beautiful boards with it, got a few wavy ones too. I found that, like you guys said, its all about feed pressure throttle and smoothness is the key I found yesterday, If I got the right throttle setting, feed it in at a angle, and smooth feed rate, it cut real nice. As soon as I let the blade grab and the cut speed drasticly changed thats when I would get a wavy cut. I found doing it like Woodshop worked best for me, just holding the saw back without using the guide finger. I also found it works better if i laid the guide beam on top of the log too. 

So all in all, its cutting better but no 100% to my liking yet, but it just me I think, need more time with it. I also need a better sawhorse setup to make it at a comfortable height.

Thanks to all that have helped me, lets keep this going with more tips for other users who may be wanting to start in the milling venture!!


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## parrisw (Sep 14, 2008)

Oh, also, once I found the perfect throttle setting I just listened to the saw a tried to keep it there, it would cut perfect without grabbing much and was easy to control the saw, however it was hard to keep the throttle setting, I wish there were some way to control the throttle better. 

Also I am thinking of putting my 038 super on the mill instead of the 044, the 044 isn't even working at all, don't even think it was barely at half throttle.


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## scottr (Sep 14, 2008)

Will, here's a thread that I think you'll find interesting. http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=38807


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## parrisw (Sep 14, 2008)

Thanks for the link. Did some more milling today. Man it work perfect today, every board came out really nice. I couldn't be happier with it. Here are a few pics. All of it pretty much came out real nice vertical grain/straight grain.


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## woodshop (Sep 14, 2008)

Pretty stuff there parrisw, looks like you got that Ripsaw working pretty nice for you now.


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## parrisw (Sep 14, 2008)

Ya, I was pretty excited when that first board came off the saw. I almost couldn't believe how nice it was. Now I just have to finally do something with these stacks of Cedar lumber in my shop. And still have another 8 logs to go get, SHEESSH


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## scottr (Sep 15, 2008)

parrisw said:


> Also Cedar is very soft, why would it not cut well in that, as apposed to green wood.



Will, your cedar pictures show clear knot free wood, what kind of cedar is it? The cedar that I've seen has a lot of knots.


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## Brmorgan (Sep 15, 2008)

scottr said:


> Will, your cedar pictures show clear knot free wood, what kind of cedar is it? The cedar that I've seen has a lot of knots.



Looks like Western Red to me (also assuming that due to his being in Victoria) - but clear wood is all about the size of the tree. I know I'm a bit late on this, but as far as band tension goes - the general rule I've heard for wood shop bandsaws is that the blade should only deflect about 1/4" when pressed on. Don't know how well that would translate to a smaller bandsaw with beefier bands like the Ripsaw though. Also, has anyone considered trying to swap out the guide blocks and modify it to install small roller bearings? I find them WAY better on a woodworking bandsaw as opposed to blocks, and the blade seems to stay cooler with them too as there's less friction.

EDIT: I don't know if this has been discussed, but releasing the tension on the band when it's not in use will result in it lasting much longer before it breaks. When bands go for a long period under tension but without moving, they can get a "memory" of that oval shape and aren't as flexible as they used to be.


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## parrisw (Sep 15, 2008)

Western red cedar. That piece I cut up was almost 100% clear, there were a couple of very small tight knots. Most of the boards came out clear wood.


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## scottr (Sep 15, 2008)

That's some pretty cedar. Did you know that you can angle the dimension plate and make lap siding on your Ripsaw?


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## parrisw (Sep 15, 2008)

scottr said:


> That's some pretty cedar. Did you know that you can angle the dimension plate and make lap siding on your Ripsaw?



Yes I did know that! Good feature.


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## woodshop (Sep 17, 2008)

Brmorgan said:


> ...Also, has anyone considered trying to swap out the guide blocks and modify it to install small roller bearings? I find them WAY better on a woodworking bandsaw as opposed to blocks, and the blade seems to stay cooler with them too as there's less friction.
> 
> EDIT: I don't know if this has been discussed, but releasing the tension on the band when it's not in use will result in it lasting much longer before it breaks. When bands go for a long period under tension but without moving, they can get a "memory" of that oval shape and aren't as flexible as they used to be.


Not a lot of room on the Ripsaw to install roller bearings. Also, I think the bottom bearing would interfere with the base that rides on the guide beam, but not saying it couldn't be made to work. Main difference is that the guide blocks on a woodworking bandsaw are 90 to the table, often one above the table and one below it. In the Ripsaw there is no "table" so to speak. That guide plate on the Ripsaw is more like a fence on a woodworking bandsaw. Using the Ripsaw on a cant is analogous to a woodworking bandsaw resawing a thick beam into thinner boards. I agree, the roller guides on my resaw bandsaw keep the blade a LOT cooler than even the ceramic or composite blocks on my 14" bandsaw. Makes a lot of sense since there would be only a fraction of the friction. 

I concur on releasing the blade tension on the Ripsaw when not in use. I never store mine with the blade under tension. Just the idea that the thing wants to bend in half if it wasn't cranked and engineered against that gives me a bad feeling, and thus I always release tension. In my woodshop though, I know you are supposed to release tension on a bandsaw every time you close up shop for the evening. It is supposed to make blades last longer. I rarely do this unless I'm leaving the shop for extended period of time like a vacation. Couple years ago I DID break a resaw bandsaw blade that I thought was premature, and could have been because I rarely release the tension. But that was only one broken blade in umpteen years. Maybe it's because I probably wear blades out long before the tension problem manifests itself. Don't know.


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