# harbor freight log splitter



## fastLeo151 (Dec 30, 2013)

I saw harbor freight has a good looking log splitter for a great price. Do any of you have any experience with one?

http://m.harborfreight.com/20-ton-log-splitter-61594.htmlhtml


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## memory (Dec 30, 2013)

Your link doesn't work for me. 

Is this it?
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-log-splitter-61594.html

If so, I can't comment on how well it will do. But remember this, HF is known for their cheap quality tools. They also sell quality stuff as well. You would be taking a chance. You could buy it and last for years with no problems or it could blow up the first time you use it.

IMO, for that amount of money, you would be better off buying one from TSC. Alot of times you can catch them on sale and get down to $900 for a much better unit.


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## fastLeo151 (Dec 30, 2013)

I have a Oregon 28 ton splitter and they come with the 35t husky beam. So I am very familiar with tsc style stuff. I just really like the idea of a splitter that splitts in both directions. I think I have seen this splitter before but it was under a different name.


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## fastLeo151 (Dec 30, 2013)

I found the other splitter I was referring to. It looks like a power horse dual split


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## TeeMan (Dec 31, 2013)

I would avoid that HB splitter; as stated, they are risky with their tool quality and for just a few hundred more dollars, you can get this 27-ton model (splits both horizontal or vertical) and has a Honda engine. My cousin and friend both have this one, and it is solid.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_116418-270-...&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=log+splitters&facetInfo=


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## dave_376 (Dec 31, 2013)

I have heard great things about the Norther tools power horse version. If I was in the market for a horizontal splitter I would pick it up no problems. I have purchased several tools from HF and many of them are the same as the stuff from any big box store at half the price. I purchased Husky brand vice grips and they are identical to the HF ones I had except for the color of the plastic grip and $20 difference in price.


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## ole yukon (Dec 31, 2013)

I buy some stuff from HF, but I don't think I could spend that on a splitter from them when it's in the price range of some proven splitters.


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## 4seasons (Dec 31, 2013)

I would try this one before I bought that HF one. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200394095_200394095
It is actually on sale now so it is about $50 less They are similar designs but I would be very leery of the HF one as it says in the description it will split logs as thick as 8 inches. I don't even split logs that small. Sounds to me like that thing is for making kindling.


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## fastLeo151 (Dec 31, 2013)

I'd bet there exactly the same, just different paint. I have the same motor on one of my splitters I just finished and it runs great and starts easy


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## blades (Dec 31, 2013)

Well this is new for them as they completely discontinued selling there previous line of gas splitters. Picture and spec list shows gas but description states electric. At a grand plus shipping I would look to the more local and accessible co. such as Home Depot, Lowes, Menards or similar box store diy centers in your location as then you have some semblance of warranty support. HF- if you do not have a store close by is pretty bad on that side of the coin and being it is a new item I would refrain from being the beta tester. Ok so I have a hf splitter used and abused it, rebuilt it better than new but there were many trials and tribulations along the way. The last versions that came down the pipe had a lot of cylinder problems. I suppose if you used the 20% off coupon ( makes it $799+ shipping) and have that kind of small change burning a hole in your pocket you could purchase it and report back. Happy New Year.


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## fastLeo151 (Dec 31, 2013)

I don't see how you can compare it to any vert/horz splitter because that's not what it is. I am guessing the discripton is off. I bet it would be very good for straight grain wood under 20" or so. There's some good videos on YouTube of the one northern tool sells.


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## blades (Dec 31, 2013)

Well if it ain't a log splitter, what is it?


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## John R (Dec 31, 2013)

For the same price you can get a 22 ton Huskee from TSC.
I would trust the made in USA more than something made in China.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Dec 31, 2013)

The worst part about HF tools is they change suppliers so much you have a hard time getting any replacement parts if needed.

Seems they get one that's made in China for a while, then go across the street and have another company in China make it for them


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## Dirtboy (Dec 31, 2013)

For that price, I would spend an extra $100. and get the Huskee 22ton at TSC. Goes vertical also, and you can always get parts for the B&S if needed. Would not want to try to find a carb kit for a Predator engine in 5 years.


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## fastLeo151 (Dec 31, 2013)

The predator engines has the same carb as a Honda gx 200. Both will work on each other.


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## fastLeo151 (Dec 31, 2013)

As far as getting parts is concerned. I'm not sure what is not standard in any log splitter that would be hard to come by....


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## Philbert (Dec 31, 2013)

I tried the larger NT 2 way splitter at TreeMonkey's and was pretty impressed. Dual motion makes it 'cycle' pretty fast.

Steve NW Wisconsin started a thread on these a while back.

Obviously, will not split wood as large as a bigger splitter, but we did some large diameter rounds. I would buy it for stove wood.

Also sold with a Honda engine as 'GNE'. Don't know if the HF is the 'same' or a 'clone'.

Philbert


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## Dirtboy (Jan 1, 2014)

fastLeo151 said:


> The predator engines has the same carb as a Honda gx 200. Both will work on each other.


As far as getting parts is concerned. I'm not sure what is not standard in any log splitter that would be hard to come by....

Good to know, but still would not spend that kind of coin on a splitter from HF.
As far as parts, my concern is the quality of the original part. Might be a fine splitter that will give you years of service-might not. JMO.


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 1, 2014)

I need another splitter like I need another hole in my head, but I think it will probably be a good product.


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## Jakers (Jan 1, 2014)

so far i have been satisfied with my powerhorse dual split 20T from northern tool. it doesn't work great for big stuff but its so light and easy to move around that i find its easier to just carry a saw with to noodle the big ones down and then use the smaller splitter. my big one requires the tractor and two guys to use efficiently. its big and unstoppable but its also big and cumbersome to use

That said, i would think this one would be similar quality. i have the chonda motor on mine so im sure the HF one would be similar in that aspect also


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## mesupra (Jan 1, 2014)

The predator engines are top notch so I would not worry much about that part, the pump and cylinder are pretty basic not much to go wrong there, I would not hesitate if that is the style of splitter you are looking for. However after using centrifugal splitters I could no go back to a hydro unit.


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## 4seasons (Jan 2, 2014)

Just to be clear the HF splitter is not the same as the PowerHorse from NT. Similar design for sure but look at the too side by side.



For one the tongue is integrated on the NT and the HF tongue is bolted on. Looks a bit wobbly with the box mounted up over top like that. Also check the hose routing. The NT becomes almost balanced over the wheels when the wedge is near the engine so that you can move it about easily with one person. The HF has the wedge welded on the other end of the center beam so the beam will protrude to the hitch when operated. While it may not interfere with normal use, I can sure see someone towing it into place dropping the tailgate to start loading the splits and promptly crushing their tailgate with the inner beam.


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## Jakers (Jan 2, 2014)

4seasons said:


> Just to be clear the HF splitter is not the same as the PowerHorse from NT. Similar design for sure but look at the too side by side.
> View attachment 325593
> View attachment 325594
> 
> For one the tongue is integrated on the NT and the HF tongue is bolted on. Looks a bit wobbly with the box mounted up over top like that. Also check the hose routing. The NT becomes almost balanced over the wheels when the wedge is near the engine so that you can move it about easily with one person. The HF has the wedge welded on the other end of the center beam so the beam will protrude to the hitch when operated. While it may not interfere with normal use, I can sure see someone towing it into place dropping the tailgate to start loading the splits and promptly crushing their tailgate with the inner beam.



nice catch. i noticed a few of the cosmetic differences but not the major function flaws. good eye


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 2, 2014)

Good looking out 4seasons! I don't think any of those points are deal breakers though. Considering the HF can be had for 750+ tax


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## flotek (Jan 2, 2014)

Just get a 22 ton huskee at tsc. Harbor scrap can't even make a pair of functional pliers and you'd give them a grand for a splitter nobody has ever seen used before ?


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 2, 2014)

I don't need 3 very/horz splitters though


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## John R (Jan 2, 2014)

A lot of good points have been made here, it all boils down to it's your money, spend it as you like.


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 2, 2014)

Well harbor freight has some really great value items in my experience...including functional pliers. The whole reason that I started this thread was to inform others that they now have a log splitter available and see if anyone had any real experience with it


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## ByronMill (Jan 14, 2014)

4seasons said:


> Just to be clear the HF splitter is not the same as the PowerHorse from NT. Similar design for sure but look at the too side by side.
> View attachment 325593
> View attachment 325594
> 
> For one the tongue is integrated on the NT and the HF tongue is bolted on. Looks a bit wobbly with the box mounted up over top like that. Also check the hose routing. The NT becomes almost balanced over the wheels when the wedge is near the engine so that you can move it about easily with one person. The HF has the wedge welded on the other end of the center beam so the beam will protrude to the hitch when operated. While it mayBnot interfere with normal use, I can sure see someone towing it into place dropping the tailgate to start loading the splits and promptly crushing their tailgate with the inner beam.



4seasons is correct on multiple observations. The units are not identical, but are both knockoffs off another manufacturer. No problem there, imitation is the most sincere form of flattery. 

I have downloaded the manuals with the illustrated parts list for each unit. I have a background in manufacturing of mobile equipment and hydraulics and am certain of the following:

1) The is no center carrier section in the HF unit. The splitter wedge blade is welded to the outside of the open end of the outer barrel (tube) of the cylinder. The shaft end of the cylinder is fixed (on the end the hoses go into) and the outer barrel is what moves back and forth. 

2) Because the outer barrel moves the hoses are not connected to the barrel. The cylinder shaft is rifle drilled the full length of it to get the hydraulic fluid to the far end of the piston for the extension stroke. There is also another hole drilled in the shaft nearly the full length to get the fluid to the front side of the piston for the retraction stroke. The shaft end yoke will have to have 2 threaded ports for the hoses to attach to, providing the path for the fluid to get to the proper path down the center of the cylinder shaft. This is a very unusual arrangement, but technically sound as long as the weldment of the splitter wedge onto the tube is well designed and manufactured. But this does mean there is no simple way to replace the splitter wedge if it was damaged. In the HF unit the entire cylinder barrel would have to be replaced or at least the cylinder would have to be disassembled and a weld/fab shop would have to repair or replace. 

3) With the NT unit the inner carrier has the wedge welded to it, so that weldment could be replaced independently of the cylinder. The cylinder is a basic 4 x 24 unit with clevis yoke ends. On the NT unit the barrel end of the cylinder is fixed and the shaft end (attached to the center carrier weldment) moves.

4) 4seasons observation about the extension travel is correct. On the NT unit the carrier extension comes out the back end by the motor. On the HF unit the cylinder tube will extend out the other end towards the hitch. That extension will be about 24".

5) As far as repair part, the main items will be the motor, the pump, the valve and the hoses. Predator motor is on sale all the time at HF for $99. 11gpm haldex or speeco pump off ebay for $100 or less. Same with the valve. Hoses from you local NAPA. At those costs there would be no incentive to repair either the motor or pump, even if it was a carb. They are throw-aways. I do not think the cylinder and wedge will be a problem on the HF unit, but it is possible and that would be the most serious repair snag. Most anything else would be simple bolt on or welding repairs.

6) HF unit has only bushings in the wheels, so NO HIGHWAY. NT has bearings, but does not recommend speeds over 45 mph.

7) As far as splitting capabilty, either of these units will do as much as a Speeco or other "22" ton splitter. IMO they will do more as they have better wedge design. These double split designs have a much longer taper on the the wedge angle which increases the splitting forces. Remember "inclined planes" in grade school science? Wedge design is as critical (if not more) than force ratings, but get little heed paid.

8) There are no industry standard for the "Ton" rating, so many play fast and free with their rating. Virtually all splitters rated in the 20 to 24 ton range have a 4" cylinder. With a very few special exceptions the maximum allowable system pressure is limited to 3000 psi max by design on the components used. Therefore any splitter running a 4" cylinder at 3000 PSI is capable of 37680 pounds of force, or roughly 19 tons. And that is even unlikely as many systems are set to bypass at 2500 PSI (31400 lbs or about 16 tons of force). Force of a cylinder is the surface area of the piston times the system pressure in PSI. Surface area is Pi (3.14) x Diameter of the piston (in this case 4") squared, then divided by 4. So 3.14 x (4x4) divided by 4 = 12.56 sq inches of surface area. 12.56 times 3000 PSI = 37680 pounds of force maximum. Motor HP has NOTHING to do with the maximum force any given system is capable of, as long as the motor is large enough to pump the volume the pump is capable of delivering at the design pressure. A cordless drill is capable of powering a 2 stage pump to split wood, it will just be a REALLY LONG cycle time. A 100 hp 200 gpm pump connected to a 4" cylinder has no more potential splitting force than a 5 hp 11 gpm pump connected to the same system.

If you prefer a vertical design splitter, or the traditional single direction horizontal splitter that is fine, but either of these units is more than capable of splitting anything either of those designs are capable of if they have a 4" cylinder. There is nothing "light duty" in these units compared to a 22 ton splitter from TSC. 

That being said I am going to order one. HF has 25% discount coupon and shipping is only $96. With IN tax the total delivered cost is like $906. I am going to modify it to be an electric motor drive when on the frame and also configure a mount for my Deere GT to mount only the splitter module to the tractor and use a 28 gpm pump when I am doing high production splitting. The splitting force will not be increased, but that spitting wedge will be just flying through the wood. I will have cycle times rivaling a SuperSplit.


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## motoman3b (Jan 15, 2014)

Looks like somebody bought one


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 15, 2014)

Byron,
Thanks for you observations. Any chance your planning on snapping some pictures when you get it. We would all appreciate some hands on opinions after you use it a little


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## Oliver1655 (Jan 15, 2014)

Due to the short lengths of the rounds he was using, he only split one way. Unless he would have used a spacer for the other end, it would have taken him longer to split using both edges of the wedge.

I liked Byron's summary. The video confirms point #4 of his rundown.

Another point to add to Byron's list would be you will have 15.7 tons while splitting towards the trailer hitch but only around 11 tons in the other direction. A little over 11 ton if 1.75" ram & a little under if using a 2" ram. The bigger the ram, the less pressure but faster speed for the return. So if splitting a knotty or stringy piece, make sure you use the ram extension action to get the maximum pressure.

Personally I prefer a dedicated horizontal splitter where the splits are moved away from the operator & with out-feed tables do not need to hit the ground again. I think the potential time saved by being able to split going both directions will be lost by the extra time needed to move/handle the splits from the operator's station. The more people working to keep the splitter loaded/cleared, the larger potential for accidents.


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## Jredsjeep (Jan 15, 2014)

motoman3b said:


> Looks like somebody bought one



that guy was just making kindling, its nice to see in action but i would rather see what it could or could not do with some bigger rounds that are not as straight.


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## ByronMill (Jan 16, 2014)

fastLeo151 said:


> Byron,
> Thanks for you observations. Any chance your planning on snapping some pictures when you get it. We would all appreciate some hands on opinions after you use it a little


I will do that fastLeo!


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## ByronMill (Jan 16, 2014)

Oliver1655 said:


> Due to the short lengths of the rounds he was using, he only split one way. Unless he would have used a spacer for the other end, it would have taken him longer to split using both edges of the wedge.
> 
> I liked Byron's summary. The video confirms point #4 of his rundown.
> 
> ...



Good comments, Oliver1655 (I assume that is your favorite tractor?) regarding the difference in potential force retracting a cylinder versus extending it, assuming the same line pressure. I decided not to include that in my comments as I thought it might be a little too much info for some to digest at one "feeding". One small point I would make is regarding terminology. The term "ram" is kind of a slang word most commonly used to describe the entire hydraulic cylinder assembly. The center shaft of the cylinder is commonly referred to as the "rod". Just a suggestion to keep the confusion down to a minimum.

I generally agree with you as to the preference a horizontal design with a fixed blade and pusher on the cylinder rod end. Work table on the end and along the wedge does help tremendously. I do not like horizontal splitting with the wedge on the cylinder rod end with a one way design. I can agree to the benefit of being able to split vertically for the intial breakdown of very large rounds, but it is a PITA (and the back) to split all day in that position IMO.

I think there can be some savings in handling as each time one of the splits can be immediately moved to the other end as the operator handles it as it splits, typically the one that is nearest to you. I plan to add a larger smooth top table to the opposite side to allow for properly sized pieces to be stacked there or pushed off the side into a cart, wheelbarrow, truck bed, etc. I like that the unit is more compact than the typical horizontal designs. There is a video on Youtube showing a guy that added a slip on 4 way split blade to a NT unit that performs very well. I think this design has some positives for medium duty use in applications where the rounds are usually under 20" or so. I could also see in higher production using a vertical unit to do the initial breakdown on larger rounds and using one of these designs for the final splitting one the pieces are down to manageable size.


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## ByronMill (Jan 16, 2014)

Jredsjeep said:


> that guy was just making kindling, its nice to see in action but i would rather see what it could or could not do with some bigger rounds that are not as straight.



I just left a message on the Youtube page asking the person if they would be willing to add some video showing it doing some full rounds and some tougher splitting pieces like knotty wood and crotch pieces.

I will do some video when I get my unit operational. Ordering it tomorrow.


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## Milkweed Seed (Jan 16, 2014)

HF is crap, I can't get why guys would waste their hard earned cash on the junk they sell. "Buy cheap, pay twice"
The exception is beer, it all turns into piss....


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## ByronMill (Jan 16, 2014)

Milkweed Seed said:


> HF is crap, I can't get why guys would waste their hard earned cash on the junk they sell. "Buy cheap, pay twice"
> The exception is beer, it all turns into piss....


Thanks for all of your intelligent input milkweed. Your comments are about as useful as your used beer.


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 16, 2014)

Byron are you planing on upgrading the motor and pump first thing or are you going to use as delivered for a while


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## Oliver1655 (Jan 16, 2014)

With anything you buy, you have to look it over make the best decision you can based on the knowledge you have. Some of the stuff Harbor Freight sells is of poor quality while most of the items I have purchased have preformed at or above the level of name brand items. Example: My 14" chop saws & 12" miter saws from Harbor Freight have outlasted my Dewalt saws 3 times as long. I will not make a long list of the items I have which I have been very happy with from this store. There are threads which specifically address this subject.

A tool I have that I feel has preformed outstandingly, if bought today may not be of the same quality. Or there maybe one I did not like which had been improved & is now a superior tool. You just can't tell without checking it out each time.

If you are not knowledgeable about a particular purchase, the smart thing is to seek advice from one who is. Bashing an item because of where you find it makes no sense to me. 

I have purchased more brands of tools over the years than I can list. Many of the brands have been consolidated or have lost a lot of the quality. I have a set of no name wrenches make in Brazil from K-Mart I purchased back in the 70's which have held their own against my SnapOn, Mac, Wright, Diamond, SK, ... sets. Have some brands maintained a consistent level of quality? In my opinion, yes. Do I have a lot of tools with "LifeTime" warranties which are not able to be replaced because the brand has disappeared, yes. Some of these brands had been around for years like Thorsen but alas, no more.

I guess my point would be, things are constantly changing & one has to be an informed & open minded shopper. Even then you can end up with a lemon.


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## Oliver1655 (Jan 16, 2014)

Quick note: I have "Greyhound" & "Predator" engines from harbor Freight which have hundreds of hours on them & they still consistently start with 1-2 pulls. I would give the engine which comes with the splitter a chance.


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 16, 2014)

I have a predator engine on one of my splitters. It only has 10-15 hours on it so far but its been great.


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## ByronMill (Jan 16, 2014)

fastLeo151 said:


> Byron are you pzlaning on upgrading the motor and pump first thing or are you going to use as delivered for a while


I am probably going to use either an 11gm 2 stage electrical motor system I have here or an 11gpm 5hp gas unit I have on another splitter to try it out and see if it is worth keeping. I will not run the motor and pump that comes with it unless I am sure the splitter design is good. If I keep the splitter module I will either sell the motor and pump or use it to build or rebuild another splitter. What I am really looking to do in the long run it to be able to do a quick mount design for my Deere garden tractor so I will have a very mobile unit. I will have the hp on the tractor to run a 28 gpm stage pump which will provide very fast cycle times. The interest is more in the compact size than the two way splitting, though I do see that as being a viable benefit.


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## ByronMill (Jan 16, 2014)

Oliver1655 said:


> Quick note: I have "Greyhound" & "Predator" engines from harbor Freight which have hundreds of hours on them & they still consistently start with 1-2 pulls. I would give the engine which comes with the splitter a chance.


I agree with you on the engines, I use them all the time on snowblowers I rebuild and other things. They are a solid motor. I am not looking to change out the motor and pump due to concern about quality or durability. I am looking to shorten cycle times for higher productivity when on the tractor and using an electrical drive package when splitting around the shop. This is to reduce noise and it is a lot cheaper operational cost over gas.


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## motoman3b (Jan 17, 2014)

Byron, I dont think you'll necessarily have to replace the pump you should be able to find a bracket or make one to adapt a electric motor and just connect the two with some lovejoy connectors. Of course you'll want to make sure you get an electric motor that spins the right direction and rpms


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## ByronMill (Jan 17, 2014)

motoman3b said:


> Byron, I dont think you'll necessarily have to replace the pump you should be able to find a bracket or make one to adapt a electric motor and just connect the two with some lovejoy connectors. Of course you'll want to make sure you get an electric motor that spins the right direction and rpms[/quo
> 
> As I stated in my previous comments I already have a motor, pump, tank configuration that I use, so all I have to do is connect the pressure side line to the valve and the return line to the tank from the upper splitter module and I am in operation. The splitter comes unassembled anyways, not like it is any extra work. And if I decide to sell the pump/motor combo that comes with it, I can truthfully say it is brand new, never used. I am 57 now and have worked with hydraulics for most of my life, I know how to make this stuff work.
> 
> ...


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## cheeves (Jan 17, 2014)

TeeMan said:


> I would avoid that HB splitter; as stated, they are risky with their tool quality and for just a few hundred more dollars, you can get this 27-ton model (splits both horizontal or vertical) and has a Honda engine. My cousin and friend both have this one, and it is solid.
> 
> http://www.lowes.com/pd_116418-270-24CF572B711_0__?productId=3806693&Ntt=log splitters&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=log+splitters&facetInfo=


Myself and my father both have the Troy-Bilt 27 ton wood splitter with the Honda engine! Split on average 20 cords a year with mine and Never had a problem with either machines!! They start right up and run and run! I use mine in the Vertical a lot because of my back, sitting on a big round! Great machines!! And that Honda motor you can't beat!!!


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## ByronMill (Jan 17, 2014)

flotek said:


> Just get a 22 ton huskee at tsc. Harbor scrap can't even make a pair of functional pliers and you'd give them a grand for a splitter nobody has ever seen used before ?


But you are ok with TSC selling you a unit advertised with a rating of 22 tons when it is IMPOSSIBLE to get more than 19 tons of force if one where to set the relief valve at the maximum allowed system pressure (3000 psi) in their manual and actually is sold with relief valve set to provide less than 16 tons of force. And they provide no instructions on how to change those settings to even get the machine up to 19 tons of force.

Doesn't make it a bad machine, but they are not exactly being honest with their customers.


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## Jim Timber (Jan 17, 2014)

Predator engines are a high quality Honda clone, so that's why they're so bulletproof.

Horrible Freight (as I call them  ) has a policy of not buying a lot of any one product from the same factory unless they've had proven success with the item. That's why you'll see the SKU's change on what appears to be the same product so often.

They have some products that are excellent values (the Predator engines for instance), and some stuff that's utter junk. I've let the smoke out of enough of their power hand tools, that I won't bother buying any more.


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## ByronMill (Jan 17, 2014)

cheeves said:


> Myself and my father both have the Troy-Bilt 27 ton wood splitter with the Honda engine! Split on average 20neocords a year with mine and Never had a problem with either machines!! They start right up and run and run! I use mine in the Vertical a lot because of my back, sitting on a big round! Great machines!! And that Honda motor you can't beat!!!


You guys do not have a 27 ton splitter if it is the one in the link. You have a 20 ton splitter with a 7 ton lie printed on it. Go look at the specs. You will see they avoid posting all the really important specs one needs to properly compare a splitter. They do not list cylinder diameter, pump gpm, relief pressure settings and motor hp. I can tell you what they are by calculating backwards from some of the things they do tell us and making a few very safe assumptions.

1) Cylinder diameter is 4.5" It would have to be at least that size for them to even dream of rating it at 27 tons. Their quoted cycle times would be too short for a 5" cylinder and if they had a 5" they would be bragging it up as as 32 or 35 ton unit. If it is only a 4" cylinder this is the biggest over rating of a splitter I have ever seen.

2) Motor hp is a paltry 4.4 HP (yes, that is right, ONLY 4.4 HP!). Right off of Honda spec page for a 160 cc motor.

3)Pump is an 11 gpm unit. Based on cycle times, largest pump that a 4.4 hp engine could even dream about handling.

4)Main relief valve is set at 2500 PSI or LESS. Not possible for a 4.4 hp engine to drive that pump at 11 gpm with a system pressure any higher than that, and it may not even handle 2500

A 4.5" cylinder with system pressure of 2500 psi will generate a maximum force of 39740 lbs, let's round it up to 20 tons. The components could handle 3000 psi if one was to adjust the main relief valve and take the rating up to 24 tons, which is still well below 27 tons. The snag is you would have to replace the engine with a larger hp one to drive it at those higher pressures. Oooops... Houston, we have a problem. This splitter's hydraulic system is a JOKE!

In addition the cycle time is 30% longer than the splitters that have a 4" cylinder with an 11 gpm pump. So you have a 20 ton splitter that is 30% slower than an actual 20 ton, 4" splitter with a 5.5 to 6.5 hp motor that could drive the pump at 3000 psi. If one was to put an 11 to 13 hp engine on this paired to a 22 gpm pump, then you would have something. Still would only be possible to get 24 tons of force, but at least you would have some reasonable cycle times.

I doubt I will find that the HF unit is set at 3000 PSI, I am betting I will find it to be around 2500. Point is that it has a 6.5 hp engine on it, so it can be turned up that high if desired. Probably will not be necessary as the wedge design is pretty good and probably will not need a lot of force to split the largest pieces that I (or most users) would be putting up there. And this wedge design will handle stringy and knotty wood better than most designs on vertical splitters.

Not sure where TeeMan came up with "only a couple hundred dollars more". With the 25% discount code that anyone can get by google search online the HF splitter is $750. The Troy-Bilt (same as MTD) splitter is $1300 at Loews. That is a huge difference in cost.

The basic design and component selection on the HF unit is valid. We already know the Predator engines are reliable. It remains to be seen if the pump and valve are reliable and also if the welding and steel thickness are proper to provide long and reliable service. I have the resources and knowledge to beef it up if is required. I realize many do not. I'll put it through it's paces and if it is not up to the challenge I will let everyone know. I will probably be able to identify most weaknesses even before failures occur, if they are there. My biggest question is having the splitter wedge welded to the cylinder tube. If that is not properly designed and fabricated it could be a fatal flaw.

If you are a user looking for vertical capabilities this is obviously not the unit for you, even if it does turn out to be rock solid. But if you are are a user that is looking for a compact horizontal only unit that can split in both directions this may be just what you are looking for. Give it a chance to be properly tested.


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 17, 2014)

Well said byron. I'm looking forward to seeing your first hand observations on this machine


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## Jakers (Jan 18, 2014)

with my comparable powerhorse, (not exactly the same but its the closest thing to it) the biggest downfall ive found is the wedge height. if im splitting anything over 8-10" it likes to split on the bottom and not on the top. ive considered building the wedge taller but if i ever hit a knot in a log the stress would rip the wedge from the square tubing. i just flip it over and split it again if its too bad, otherwise i keep a hatchet handy to snip the strings. this will likely be a problem on the HF model too. not a huge deal cuz the wedge is already there waiting for the next pass in the other direction 

as for wedge design, it cuts anything it wont split. only stalled it once on a really naughty piece that was frozen and didnt have a single straight grain to it. i just noodled it and was done. with my big splitter it woulda done something to it, either cut it or smooshed it into a stringy pulp that would have been useless for anything other than starting a bonfire


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## ByronMill (Jan 18, 2014)

Jakers said:


> with my comparable powerhorse, (not exactly the same but its the closest thing to it) the biggest downfall ive found is the wedge height. if im splitting anything over 8-10" it likes to split on the bottom and not on the top. ive considered building the wedge taller but if i ever hit a knot in a log the stress would rip the wedge from the square tubing. i just flip it over and split it again if its too bad, otherwise i keep a hatchet handy to snip the strings. this will likely be a problem on the HF model too. not a huge deal cuz the wedge is already there waiting for the next pass in the other direction
> 
> as for wedge design, it cuts anything it wont split. only stalled it once on a really naughty piece that was frozen and didnt have a single straight grain to it. i just noodled it and was done. with my big splitter it woulda done something to it, either cut it or smooshed it into a stringy pulp that would have been useless for anything other than starting a bonfire


I think everyone that has split any of the stringy species of wood in larger diameters has experienced what you describe Jakers. Of course that happens with any of the typical mass produced logsplitters that have a 6" to 10" high wedge, which includes pretty much all of the vertical/horizontal units being compared to these dual split units. The vertical units typically have the wing taper on the back side of the wedge which can help at times to either finish the split on some stringy pieces or finish the split with a little less cylinder travel if the round is of a modest size, say 14-16 inches or less in diameter. Of course sometimes that wing will cause the piece to hang up on the wedge for the large diameter stuff and then one has to run the wedge back to the stripper plate to get the piece diislodged if horizontal. The weight will often pull it off if using it in the vertical mode, but not always.

With the narrow "knife" wedge on the dual split it rarely would hang up, and even if it did you can just put another piece of wood at the other end and strip the stuck piece as you split the one you just put in. And if one really wanted to have a winged wedge design it would be very easy to add a double taper wing to the center of the wedge and gain that benefit. It would have to be a bolt on or slip on design in order to allow for the cylinder and wedge to be removed for service.

The only machines that have wedges tall enough (12" or more) to eliminate this issue on most large diameters trunk section are very expensive commercial splitters or units the owners built themselves or had custom made. That is not what is being compared here.


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## TeeMan (Jan 20, 2014)

ByronMill said:


> You guys do not have a 27 ton splitter if it is the one in the link. You have a 20 ton splitter with a 7 ton lie printed on it. Go look at the specs. You will see they avoid posting all the really important specs one needs to properly compare a splitter. They do not list cylinder diameter, pump gpm, relief pressure settings and motor hp. I can tell you what they are by calculating backwards from some of the things they do tell us and making a few very safe assumptions.
> 
> 1) Cylinder diameter is 4.5" It would have to be at least that size for them to even dream of rating it at 27 tons. Their quoted cycle times would be too short for a 5" cylinder and if they had a 5" they would be bragging it up as as 32 or 35 ton unit. If it is only a 4" cylinder this is the biggest over rating of a splitter I have ever seen.
> 
> ...


 
I'm sure you could also get a discount for the one at Lowe's (my cousin got his for $1,000 as the floor model, but those are special cases). I was taking the difference in the posted $1,299 cost for the Troy-Built and the $999.99 posted cost for the HF model. As far as the splitting tonnage, they are listed at 27 & 20 respectively.


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## ByronMill (Jan 21, 2014)

TeeMan said:


> I'm sure you could also get a discount for the one at Lowe's (my cousin got his for $1,000 as the floor model, but those are special cases). I was taking the difference in the posted $1,299 cost for the Troy-Built and the $999.99 posted cost for the HF model. As far as the splitting tonnage, they are listed at 27 & 20 respectively.


Here is a code that anyone can use to get 25% off any one item at Harbor Freight. It works on the splitter, I used it to confirm. Show me a link to a coupon readily available for Loews. I've never seen one. 
http://www.dealcatcher.com/coupons_by_merchant/harbor-freight/996726234

Regarding your comments about the "listed" ratings, my earlier posts address that very issue. There is clearly no industry standard applied to these ratings and are only meaningful in comparing the capabilities of any given unit if the manufacturer and seller are ethical and truthful in their claims. If one does not know the cylinder diameter, the actual pressure setting of the main relief valve, the gpm of the pump and the horsepower of the drive motor it is not possible to accurately compare the capabilities of any given splitter. 

Troy-Bilt and Loews can "list" the splitting force of the unit at 27 tons, but the laws and principles of hydraulics and power dictate that the unit as sold is INCAPABLE of providing anywhere near 27 tons of force at the wedge. As shipped from the factory and sold to the user, this splitter has no capability to provide more than 20 tons of splitting force, and cannot be adjusted or tuned in any way to do better. This is not opinion, it is simple engineering facts. I have no way of knowing whether the are choosing to "misrepresent" (lie) about the actual capabilities or if their engineering, manufacturing and marketing people just don't know any better. At the same time, they certainly are not the only manufacturers/sellers that are overstating the capabilities of their splitters.

The HF unit is capable of at least close to the advertised rating of 20 tons, 19 would be more accurate, and at least you could look past that as just rounding up. The Loews unit has virtually the same splitting force available and is 30% slower in the speed of travel of the wedge. Again, does not mean it is a bad splitter, but I fail to see where anyone could honestly opine that this Loews splitter can provide better splitting than the HF unit. If splitting vertically is important to you, you are ok with 20 tons of force, do not mind that the travel speed on the wedge is 30% slower and are willing to spend $550 more for the Loews unit, then great, go for it.


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## TeeMan (Jan 21, 2014)

ByronMill said:


> Here is a code that anyone can use to get 25% off any one item at Harbor Freight. It works on the splitter, I used it to confirm. Show me a link to a coupon readily available for Loews. I've never seen one.
> http://www.dealcatcher.com/coupons_by_merchant/harbor-freight/996726234
> 
> Regarding your comments about the "listed" ratings, my earlier posts address that very issue. There is clearly no industry standard applied to these ratings and are only meaningful in comparing the capabilities of any given unit if the manufacturer and seller are ethical and truthful in their claims. If one does not know the cylinder diameter, the actual pressure setting of the main relief valve, the gpm of the pump and the horsepower of the drive motor it is not possible to accurately compare the capabilities of any given splitter.
> ...


 
Byron, I never said there was a 'coupon' for Lowe's. I was simply stating that in some cases you can get a floor model for far less. Vertical splitting is important to me and so is having a Honda engine. I'm not saying the HF model is a bad deal, just saying that I personally would stay away from it. Please stop quoting my statements and following them with things as if to make me look foolish. This is a message board and any poster sets themselves up for follow up comments, but I am withdrawing from this thread.
Best of luck selecting a splitter for your needs fastLeo151.


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## Jim Timber (Jan 21, 2014)

Most box stores won't sell a demo unless it's the only one they have, or they want to get it off the floor (out of season).

Home depot wouldn't even let me use my veterans discount (10% all the time) on my demo Ridgid 5pc cordless tool set because it was already marked down 20% as an open box. I did still get the free battery, and was able to return that for full price though. I had another drill which uses the same batteries and didn't need 5 of them, so I took the extra $90 off instead.


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 21, 2014)

I 


TeeMan said:


> Byron, I never said there was a 'coupon' for Lowe's. I was simply stating that in some cases you can get a floor model for far less. Vertical splitting is important to me and so is having a Honda engine. I'm not saying the HF model is a bad deal, just saying that I personally would stay away from it. Please stop quoting my statements and following them with things as if to make me look foolish. This is a message board and any poster sets themselves up for follow up comments, but I am withdrawing from this thread.
> Best of luck selecting a splitter for your needs fastLeo151.




I'm good on splitters my man, just brought this up to share my findings. Were all terribly sorry your statements were disagreeable at times and your feelings got hurt.


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 21, 2014)

Jim Timber said:


> Most box stores won't sell a demo unless it's the only one they have, or they want to get it off the floor (out of season).
> 
> Home depot wouldn't even let me use my veterans discount (10% all the time) on my demo Ridgid 5pc cordless tool set because it was already marked down 20% as an open box. I did still get the free battery, and was able to return that for full price though. I had another drill which uses the same batteries and didn't need 5 of them, so I took the extra $90 off instead.



IMO home depot sucks....


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## Jim Timber (Jan 21, 2014)

They match prices, and give me 10% off that. Menards is the only other option up north and they're utter weak-sauce in comparison.


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## c5rulz (Jan 21, 2014)

I am amused in threads regarding gasoline motor run implements such as splitters. Many people's eyes glaze over and they look to the heavens as something sent from God when it has a HONDA motor. 

Well there is a huge difference between the GX and GC motors. The GX are excellent, the GC aren't any better than other cheap motors. Many including myself poo poo Briggs/Stratton. I've have had excellent service out of them. In the cold climates a real choke rather than a primer only is vastly superior. The B/S 1450 on my Speeco 28 ton has a 5 position choke and generally starts on the first pull.


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## playback (Jun 4, 2014)

Byron or anyone else who got this splitter...any feedback on it? 

I've never had a splitter before, just doing it by hand. HF has this for $699 now and with the 25% off coupon I have it's down to $524.

Feeling like pulling the trigger but still can't find any reviews other than 1 on their page. 


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## Deleted member 83629 (Jun 4, 2014)

spend the extra 100.00 on a splitter made in the usa instead of one being made in a sweatshop across the pond.


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## milkman (Jun 4, 2014)

playback said:


> Byron or anyone else who got this splitter...any feedback on it?
> 
> I've never had a splitter before, just doing it by hand. HF has this for $699 now and with the 25% off coupon I have it's down to $524.
> 
> ...



Be sure and read the fine print on the 25% off coupon, they have added several exclusions in the fine print. I thought I had found a good deal on a floor jack, the checker read the exclusions, almost need a magnifying glass to read.


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## playback (Jun 4, 2014)

Thanks I'll do that. I have it in my cart ready to checkout without the discount applied. Total before shipping is $524.99


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## WoodTick007 (Jun 4, 2014)

*Forest King 22 Ton Gas Log Splitter*


Online Price
$999.00


$889.11 after $109.89mail-in rebate 














*Qty. 
*


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## playback (Jun 4, 2014)

Still not hearing why not on the HF one. :/


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## fastLeo151 (Jun 4, 2014)

Well worth that price...


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## playback (Jun 4, 2014)

Leo did you end up getting the HF one?


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## playback (Jun 4, 2014)

I ordered it this morning so I'll let you guys know how it holds up. I'll be using it a lot over the next few months so I'll post updates as I go.


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## WoodTick007 (Jun 5, 2014)

The only thing that sucks more than the quality of anything sold by HF....Is there customer service and lack of replacement parts. I cannot imagine you thought this thru before buying from them. Why dont you try calling to order a part. . . Total nightmare


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## Gravedigger (Jun 6, 2014)

WoodTick007 said:


> The only thing that sucks more than the quality of anything sold by HF....Is there customer service and lack of replacement parts. I cannot imagine you thought this thru before buying from them. Why dont you try calling to order a part. . . Total nightmare


I don't see as big deal. I replaced / upgraded just about everything on this Craftsman / didier splitter from the early 70's with parts from ebay, TSC, Northern Tool.


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## Oliver1655 (Jun 6, 2014)

Now to raise it up to waist height & add an out feed table.


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## Gravedigger (Jun 6, 2014)

Oliver1655 said:


> Now to raise it up to waist height & add an out feed table.


I've been thinking about it. I saw one someplace built into a wooden table table made out of 4x4 with 2x6 top. The splitter was sill removable. I only split at home so not a problem on portability.


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## WoodTick007 (Jun 6, 2014)

Gravedigger said:


> View attachment 353805
> 
> I don't see as big deal. I replaced / upgraded just about everything on this Craftsman / didier splitter from the early 70's with parts from ebay, TSC, Northern Tool.


I don't understand the purpose of your post? Were.you looking for some kind of goverment metal or award? I have an old bowling trophy i could UPS to you if that will make you feel something. . . LoL


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## Gravedigger (Jun 6, 2014)

WoodTick007 said:


> I don't understand the purpose of your post? Were.you looking for some kind of goverment metal or award? I have an old bowling trophy i could UPS to you if that will make you feel something. . . LoL


It was in response to this thread


WoodTick007 said:


> The only thing that sucks more than the quality of anything sold by HF....Is there customer service and lack of replacement parts. I cannot imagine you thought this thru before buying from them. Why dont you try calling to order a part. . . Total nightmare



You can get replacement parts anywhere for log splitters! 


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## playback (Jun 7, 2014)

I've bought several tools and smaller things from them but never any power equipment. Seems they are all built relatively the same so even if I have to replace something on it I should be able to mix/match parts. For $500 I don't see how it could be that bad, even if it's just a base to build off of later. I guess I'll see 


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## Philbert (Jun 7, 2014)

playback said:


> I ordered it this morning so I'll let you guys know how it holds up. I'll be using it a lot over the next few months so I'll post updates as I go.



Look forward to your reports, and hope that we are pleasantly surprised!

Philbert


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## GVSII (Jun 7, 2014)

c5rulz said:


> I am amused in threads regarding gasoline motor run implements such as splitters. Many people's eyes glaze over and they look to the heavens as something sent from God when it has a HONDA motor.
> 
> Well there is a huge difference between the GX and GC motors. The GX are excellent, the GC aren't any better than other cheap motors. Many including myself poo poo Briggs/Stratton. I've have had excellent service out of them. In the cold climates a real choke rather than a primer only is vastly superior. The B/S 1450 on my Speeco 28 ton has a 5 position choke and generally starts on the first pull.


 

As you say,many folks rag big time on B&S small engines.I'm not one.I've got 6 of them around here and gotten very good service from all.I did have one bad one years ago.I gave it to a friend who was a small engine mech.He'd given me several parts to try to fix it, nothing worked.He worked on it off and on for a month and eventually carted it off to the scrap yard.Another one that took a dump after 12 years of HARD use(5 HP) on which the block broke where the intake bolted to it.


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## WoodTick007 (Jun 7, 2014)

GVSII said:


> As you say,many folks rag big time on B&S small engines.I'm not one.I've got 6 of them around here and gotten very good service from all.I did have one bad one years ago.I gave it to a friend who was a small engine mech.He'd given me several parts to try to fix it, nothing worked.He worked on it off and on for a month and eventually carted it off to the scrap yard.Another one that took a dump after 12 years of HARD use(5 HP) on which the block broke where the intake bolted to it.


Briggs made a slightly better engine than Tecumseh.....but the gx series engines designed and produced by honda in japan were light years ahead. . Quiet, smooth running, easy starting, excellent power delivery....they are just a true joy to own and operate... Briggs is just another american company that sold.the american consumer a substandard product for many many many years. . . No different than American Motors, GM, Chrysler, Ford. . . .Thank God for the Japs or we would still driving cars that rusted in a year and needed.the engines and transmissions rebuilt at 80,000 miles. I would like to take this time to personally thank Honda.... Thank You Honda!. Thank You.


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## Jakers (Jun 7, 2014)

great way to stir the pot.... i agree but not with quite the emphasis you do


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## Ductape (Jun 11, 2014)

Does anyone have a 25% off coupon code they can PM me ?? I have the 20 off, but 25 would be better.


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## milkman (Jun 11, 2014)

Here's the best I could do.

http://www.dealcatcher.com/coupons_by_merchant/harbor-freight/996775671


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## playback (Jun 11, 2014)

There is a 25% off for online orders but i could only find 20% off In store. The guy told me the 20ton log splitter is online only if you want to know.


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## Ductape (Jun 12, 2014)

Thanks milkman ! It works..... now if I can talk myself into spending the money on a second splitter. That's an insane price for a functioning splitter.


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## playback (Jun 12, 2014)

They are back ordered right now. I placed an order over a week ago and yet emailed today saying it was back ordered. I called and asked how long and they said maybe 2-3 weeks, plus 1-2 weeks to ship to me, so I'm probably looking at closet to August before I can post some videos for people to compare. 

Sucks there are so few reviews and videos of these online, if at all.


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## Ductape (Jun 12, 2014)

That stinks ! Makes me less likely to order one. I noticed there are three more positive reviews on their site since it went on sale. Since it looks identical to the Powerhorse brand @ NT ...... any review on those should apply.


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## Philbert (Jun 12, 2014)

Ductape said:


> Since it looks identical to the Powerhorse brand @ NT ...... any review on those should apply.



No.

I had the opportunity to visit the factory in Minnesota where Northern Tool builds their red splitters, pressure washers, and generators. I have spent a lot of time in factories and was pretty impressed. Clean, organized, modern equipment, QA and QC testing, etc. I would buy or recommend those products. 

I also spent some time with one of their design engineers. He said that NT owns their own factory in China, where the blue products are made, and that that gives them a lot more control on quality than with a contracted manufacturer. He noted cases where he specified better components, such as bearings, that maybe added $1 to their cost, but increased product life significantly. A bid manufacturer might substitute the cheaper components and be long gone when replacement parts are needed. They are still built as a 'price point' model.

I don't work for NT, and don't recommend all of their products. But I caution against comparing all of these imported, 'look-alike' products based solely on appearance.

I did try the Powerhorse 2-way splitter at a GTG and was impressed by it. I have been told by a few people that the GNE product is the same (came out of the same factory), but with a Honda consumer engine and different paint. I would buy one of those if I was in the market.

Philbert


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## WoodTick007 (Jun 13, 2014)

I dunno.... I guess I am old skool....to me that HF splitter looks like something made by Playskool. Time will tell


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## Philbert (Jun 13, 2014)

Stopped by a Harbor Freight store I was pasing by to pick up a free tape measure. Asked about the log splitters, but they only had the manual ones. The gas powered one was only available on line, so I was unable to take a look at it in person.

Philbert


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## fiasco (Jun 14, 2014)

My rule with HF: Anything you buy there will eventually get used as a hammer.


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## Whitespider (Jun 16, 2014)

fiasco said:


> _*My rule with HF: Anything you buy there will eventually get used as a hammer.*_



Some stuff can end-up that way... either used as a hammer or you take a hammer to it.
But some stuff can be one whole heck of a good piece of equipment for penny's-on-the-dollar. I bought their 5500/6500 generator with electric start a few years back; it's been dead reliable and way more powerful the the rated wattage... I can run my entire house, including the water well, and the thing never even grunts. I've been using the Portable Tire Changer (like $30 with coupon) bolted to my shop floor for a while now... that thing is flat slick for 30-bucks, and I've lost count how many tires I've dismounted and mounted. How many guys right here on this board have praised the replacement engines?? Harbor Freight ain't no different than anywhere else; this is a "buyer beware" world... ya' just need to be sure ya' got your "buyer beware" cap on when ya' shop at HF.
*


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## fiasco (Jun 16, 2014)

Whitespider said:


> Some stuff can end-up that way... either used as a hammer or you take a hammer to it.
> Harbor Freight ain't no different than anywhere else; this is a "buyer beware" world... ya' just need to be sure ya' got your "buyer beware" cap on when ya' shop at HF.
> *



QFT. "You get what you pay for," is another saying to remember going in there. Actually, HF usually exceeds my expectations!


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## Philbert (Jun 16, 2014)

All of those tape measures are worth what I pay for them!

Philbert


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## zogger (Jun 18, 2014)

Whitespider said:


> Some stuff can end-up that way... either used as a hammer or you take a hammer to it.
> But some stuff can be one whole heck of a good piece of equipment for penny's-on-the-dollar. I bought their 5500/6500 generator with electric start a few years back; it's been dead reliable and way more powerful the the rated wattage... I can run my entire house, including the water well, and the thing never even grunts. I've been using the Portable Tire Changer (like $30 with coupon) bolted to my shop floor for a while now... that thing is flat slick for 30-bucks, and I've lost count how many tires I've dismounted and mounted. How many guys right here on this board have praised the replacement engines?? Harbor Freight ain't no different than anywhere else; this is a "buyer beware" world... ya' just need to be sure ya' got your "buyer beware" cap on when ya' shop at HF.
> *



Man, I need me one of those tire changers. Just watched a vid the harbor freight versus the northern tool. Think I'll pop for the more expensive but twice the steel northern tool one. 

Either one though looks acceptable, I just got 8 rides (his and hers combined..) plus mowers and trailers to deal with, DANG I hates going to the tire store. It used to be cheap to get flats fixed and tires unmounted and mounted, not today! Ten bucks a whack today. Ya, done it the real old fashioned way with tire irons and sledge hammers and sweat..ummph..I ain't 20 years old no mo.


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## Philbert (Jun 18, 2014)

zogger said:


> Ya, done it the real old fashioned way with tire irons and sledge hammers and sweat..ummph..I ain't 20 years old no mo.



Was this you Zog?




Philbert


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## Jakers (Jun 18, 2014)

zogger said:


> Man, I need me one of those tire changers. Just watched a vid the harbor freight versus the northern tool. Think I'll pop for the more expensive but twice the steel northern tool one.
> 
> Either one though looks acceptable, I just got 8 rides (his and hers combined..) plus mowers and trailers to deal with, DANG I hates going to the tire store. It used to be cheap to get flats fixed and tires unmounted and mounted, not today! Ten bucks a whack today. Ya, done it the real old fashioned way with tire irons and sledge hammers and sweat..ummph..I ain't 20 years old no mo.


took a trip up to see my Ma in Grand Forks, ND a few years back and blew a rear tire all to shreds. limped it a couple hundred feet to a local farm and put them old fashioned skills to good use. he had two mostly worn out take offs and i had two strong arms. hour later i was on the road again


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## zogger (Jun 19, 2014)

Philbert said:


> Was this you Zog?
> 
> 
> 
> Philbert




Ha! Pretty...much.....


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## Deleted member 83629 (Jun 19, 2014)

Rather have a kohler engine over a honda specially the K series if i could find a log splitter with one either the 10 or 16 hp version i would scoop it up.
The harbor fright log splitter would concern me over finding parts plus the quality of the craftsmanship of the equipment and everything else, I would just be a little scared of something coming from a store that sells a generator that won't last 15 hrs or a power tool that can burn down my garage ( it has happened to me before! )


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## jason6586 (Jul 31, 2014)

In reality from what i know of it and have seen it in action it's really not a bad splitter especially if you have the 20 or 25% off coupon. A friend of mine bought one 2 years ago i think and splits about 4-5 cords per year of elm, maple and oak and has never complained to me whatsoever. I just saw him using it last week actually. The predator engines are a fairly good engine as well (for the $$) as long as you maintain them, They basically are a exact honda clone and most if not all the honda parts will interchange. He hasn't stuck a dime into his since he bought it. If you are splitting a lot of wood it may not be the answer for you but for 4-5 cords or so per year I wouldn't be afraid of it. I own one of the 7000 watt HF generators with the predator engines that I bought last year and use that thing 3-4 days a week at least at the race track and it runs for 5-7 hours per night and again I haven't stuck a dime in to it other than oil changes, air filters and one spark plug. There are things I would buy from HF and there are things that I wouldn't but as far a generators go I would buy another one for sure and from what I know of the splitter I would buy one if i only split a few cords per year. The generators are quite quiet as well, no where near an enclosed honda but you could buy 8 HF generators for the one honda, lol. Just my .02 cents

Have a great day!


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## Whitespider (Jul 31, 2014)

My electric start HF generator has been flat dead reliable also.
Just goin' on the fact that it can power my house, shop and well pump... it's rated 5500/6500 watts is underrated.
I bought mine on sale and/or with a coupon (don't remember exactly) for something just over $400.oo... I'd buy another in half-a-heartbeat.
*


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 31, 2014)

I just used my HF Predator generator for 3 days mine is 8700/7000 never a problem....never had a problem with my HF power washer either.


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## chuckwood (Jul 31, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> I just used my HF Predator generator for 3 days mine is 8700/7000 never a problem....never had a problem with my HF power washer either.



I have a small rear tine tiller that had a 3 hp Tecumseh engine on it. I bought the machine in almost new condition, but after three years of light use, the motor had a catastrophic failure. The bolts securing the ignition module backed out, and the module fell into the flywheel, destroying both parts. Tecumseh is out of business and I couldn't find a reasonably priced replacement motor. The tiller almost landed on my scrap pile. I found out that the 3 hp Harbor Freight Predator engine is a bolt on replacement for the Tecumseh. I got the motor on sale at HF and after a couple hours work, my tiller was up and running again. So far, I'm impressed with the Predator engine. It starts immediately, it seems to have more power than the previous engine, and I've used it hard during this years gardening season. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another Predator engine, especially considering the price.


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## mn woodcutter (Aug 3, 2014)

I'm ordering the dual split 20 ton splitter tomorrow. It's on sale for $699! I can't even buy a used one for that. For that price if I don't like it I can probably sell it on craigslist and make money for what used one go for around here.


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## zogger (Aug 3, 2014)

mn woodcutter said:


> I'm ordering the dual split 20 ton splitter tomorrow. It's on sale for $699! I can't even buy a used one for that. For that price if I don't like it I can probably sell it on craigslist and make money for what used one go for around here.



7 smilin' Bens for a brand new gas splitter is kinda hard to beat!

I'll give ya a "you suck" for that deal!


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## mn woodcutter (Aug 3, 2014)

Well its back ordered but I'm not in a hurry and they let me use a 20% discount code which brought the price down to $560!


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## zogger (Aug 3, 2014)

mn woodcutter said:


> Well its back ordered but I'm not in a hurry and they let me use a 20% discount code which brought the price down to $560!



Double secret 20% extra suck!


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## chuckwood (Aug 3, 2014)

mn woodcutter said:


> Well its back ordered but I'm not in a hurry and they let me use a 20% discount code which brought the price down to $560!



Well, I'm planning on ordering one myself. Where did you get the 20% discount code? Can you have it shipped to a local HF store or must it be shipped to your home? I've read on the HF site that there is a $78 shipping charge.


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## fastLeo151 (Aug 3, 2014)

That's a crazy good deal


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## mn woodcutter (Aug 4, 2014)

I just googled harbor freight discount code


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## mn woodcutter (Aug 5, 2014)

If anyone is interested in seeing this splitter it looks to me that my local fleet farm store sells the same thing rebadged as a "Lumberjack" splitter.


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## chuckwood (Aug 5, 2014)

mn woodcutter said:


> If anyone is interested in seeing this splitter it looks to me that my local fleet farm store sells the same thing rebadged as a "Lumberjack" splitter.



I just looked it up at their website. It looks the same as the HF splitter - but at a much higher price at 950 dollars. 

http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/lumberjack-tools-20-ton-dual-action-log-splitter/0000000094925


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## jason6586 (Aug 7, 2014)

For the people that have one of the HF 20 ton splitters what are you seeing for cycle times? My neighbor's seems quite slow, I told him I would ask on here to see what kind of response I would get.

Thanks


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## chuckwood (Aug 7, 2014)

jason6586 said:


> For the people that have one of the HF 20 ton splitters what are you seeing for cycle times? My neighbor's seems quite slow, I told him I would ask on here to see what kind of response I would get.
> 
> Thanks



According to the ad, the cycle time for this machine is 16 seconds. I don't know enough offhand to say whether that is fast or slow........

My understanding of this splitter is that it splits both ways, so you aren't really cycling it if you are splitting long pieces, say between 18 to 23 inches. That's the size I'm splitting for my heater. If the wedge moves a bit slow, it still seems it should be faster than a splitter that requires the wedge to retract all the way back to do the next piece. It probably won't work so well with very large rounds, but I noodle all my stuff down first anyway. I don't own one but I'm about to order one. Paying 75 bucks a day for splitter rentals is getting old. I've already spent enough in rentals to buy two of these.......


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## Idahonative (Aug 7, 2014)

Save your money and buy a Fiskars X27 axe from Amazon for $48 (no tax, free shipping). I have access to a nice Troy Built splitter but I never use it anymore. Make sure your rounds are dry and this axe will put a smile on your face. You will be amazed how easy it is to split your entire winters supply. You will look at your pile of wood with pride and will have gotten a little exercise at the same time.

I know you asked about the HF wood splitter and I gave you axe advice. I'm not trying to be smart here, I just think there is a better option for you. Personally, I would be very careful laying down any large sum at HF because they are well stocked with Chinese junk. For $48 you could try the Fiskars and if you don't like it, send it back to Amazon for a full refund. The axe has a lifetime guarantee...no broken handles to replace. Brake one (I doubt you can) and Fiskars will send you a brand new axe. The best part, they are made in Finland...NOT CHINA.


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## Jakers (Aug 7, 2014)

jason6586 said:


> For the people that have one of the HF 20 ton splitters what are you seeing for cycle times? My neighbor's seems quite slow, I told him I would ask on here to see what kind of response I would get.
> 
> Thanks


i see around 7 and 5 second cycle times. one stroke counts as a "cycle" on these since the wedge is ready for the next split at the end of the last stroke. due to the rod taking up space on what would be the normal "return" stroke, the second cycle time is lower


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## chuckwood (Nov 18, 2014)

My HF splitter will be arriving sometime in December. I ordered it back in Sept. I just went to HF website to check on any updated reviews, there are 5. So far, no negative reviews have been posted, and here is a recent you tube link showing this splitter in action.


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## WoodTick007 (Nov 18, 2014)

chuckwood said:


> My HF splitter will be arriving sometime in December. I ordered it back in Sept. I just went to HF website to check on any updated reviews, there are 5. So far, no negative reviews have been posted, and here is a recent you tube link showing this splitter in action.




Well that is.surely great news. One thing for sure is Harbor Freight sets the Gold Standard for customer service in chinese manufactured stuff. Just make sure you purchase the longest extended warranty and keep all you paperwork.


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## Jim Timber (Nov 18, 2014)

I've gotta laugh when NT says they have their own factory. I've never been impressed with any of their house brand machinery. I also felt kinda bad selling my 17" 1.5hp NT drill press because it was such a turd. They wouldn't let anyone in their tractor at the State Fair this year either - yeah, I'm going to buy a tractor I can't even sit in...

MN company or not, they're not that great. Used to be different when it was Northern Hydraulics. Yes, I remember back then because my dad took me to the one off 36 and English starting when I was pretty young (it's no longer a NT store). They have some ok deals and carry some very good lines, but I'm not convinced they're anything but a container buyer on their maroon stuff.


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## Streblerm (Nov 18, 2014)

Harbor Freight has recently excluded "predator power products" from their 20% off coupons. Looks like no more <$600 splitter.


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## Philbert (Nov 18, 2014)

Jim Timber said:


> I've gotta laugh when NT says they have their own factory. I've never been impressed with any of their house brand machinery.


Jim,

I visited their Faribault, Minnesota factory and was very impressed. I visit a lot of factories, so I have something to compare it to. Very modern, up to date equipment and processes. I also saw some of their product testing, where they ran some of their stuff and some competitive products to failure for analysis. They build their red 'NorthStar' log splitters, pressure washers, and generators there, along with some of the other lines that they sell through other channels. Based on that visit, I would buy those products.

I was told that they also own their own factory in China, where a lot of their blue 'PowerHorse' and other products are made. They said that that making those 'in-house' gives them more control over the quality of these products and components than similar items made by contract manufacturers overseas. That makes sense, but I did not personally visit that location and can't personally vouch for it. I also can't tell you which items they make themselves and which are contract manufactured.

Some of the items they sell in their stores is low end stuff that I would avoid. I assume that the tractors are made in some factory somewhere that makes them under several names for several companies. Parts and support for these down the road may be sketchy, as it can be for many lower end products. But this could be a special problem for a large, expensive item you plan to keep for a while, so I would be skeptical about those as well.



Jim Timber said:


> Used to be different when it was Northern Hydraulics.



Same owner.

Philbert


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## chuckwood (Nov 18, 2014)

WoodTick007 said:


> Well that is.surely great news. One thing for sure is Harbor Freight sets the Gold Standard for customer service in chinese manufactured stuff. Just make sure you purchase the longest extended warranty and keep all you paperwork.



I've purchased a lot of stuff from HF over the years, and I always research the item before I buy it. I weld and I have a small shop, so I'll admit to "customizing" and modifying some of my HF stuff to make it work the way I want it to. And yeah, I bought the two year extended warranty. I do plan on working this thing hard for the first couple of years, I'm clearing out around 8 acres of wood and the byproduct will be firewood. I'll let y'all know just how this machine holds up. This year, I revived a rear tine rototiller with an HF predator engine - the original tecumseh engine blew up on me, and I'm really impressed with the Predator's performance.


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## WoodTick007 (Nov 18, 2014)

chuckwood said:


> I've purchased a lot of stuff from HF over the years, and I always research the item before I buy it. I weld and I have a small shop, so I'll admit to "customizing" and modifying some of my HF stuff to make it work the way I want it to. And yeah, I bought the two year extended warranty. I do plan on working this thing hard for the first couple of years, I'm clearing out around 8 acres of wood and the byproduct will be firewood. I'll let y'all know just how this machine holds up. This year, I revived a rear tine rototiller with an HF predator engine - the original tecumseh engine blew up on me, and I'm really impressed with the Predator's performance.


Take it back at the end of two years and exchange the engine. They will do it with very few questions asked


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## Jim Timber (Nov 18, 2014)

Philbert said:


> Jim,
> 
> I visited their Faribault, Minnesota factory and was very impressed. I visit a lot of factories, so I have something to compare it to. Very modern, up to date equipment and processes. I also saw some of their product testing, where they ran some of their stuff and some competitive products to failure for analysis. They build their red 'NorthStar' log splitters, pressure washers, and generators there, along with some of the other lines that they sell through other channels. Based on that visit, I would buy those products.
> 
> ...



Yes, those are quite different than their sand cast iron machinery which I'm more likely to be in the market for. Thin castings, weak and flexible drill press heads, concave Blanchard ground tables, the list of flaws goes on and on. 

Northern Hydraulics was a different business model. They focused on carrying higher quality products, and had a much smaller catalog of offerings. Now they've expanded into all sorts of junk and their sales staff is about as useful as Radio Shack (who also morphed into something useless from having had a past of better days).


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## chuckwood (Nov 26, 2014)

fastLeo151 said:


> I saw harbor freight has a good looking log splitter for a great price. Do any of you have any experience with one?
> 
> http://m.harborfreight.com/20-ton-log-splitter-61594.htmlhtml



I picked mine up today at the ConWay freight terminal in Knoxville. It comes in a wooden crate wrapped in cardboard. They loaded it in my trailer with a forklift, weighs around 450 lbs. Got home, took the crate apart while it was on my trailer, and got everything out except the hydraulic cylinder/ram assembly, which weighs around 225 I've read. I used the front end loader and some straps to pick it up and set it on the frame we assembled. It took around 4 hours I guess to put it together, with my grandchildren helping. Tomorrow I'll get the hydraulic fluid, start it up and see what it will do. I like the design in that it splits both ways, seems more efficient to me. Two stage 8 gpm pump. I'm clearing woods and most of my trees are small/medium size, I'm too skeered to mess with the big monster trees anyhow and I'm gonna leave most of them alone. I figure a 20 ton splitter should be adequate for my project. I'll be pushing it hard, if I have to make a claim on the two year extended warranty, I'll report on what happened. So far, I've got a good feeling about

this machine.


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## Jim Timber (Nov 26, 2014)

I'll be looking forward to hearing what you think of it after it's split some wood. The video's thus far are promising.


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## chuckwood (Nov 28, 2014)

Jim Timber said:


> I'll be looking forward to hearing what you think of it after it's split some wood.



I've been splitting with it yesterday and today. So far, so good. It does have one issue that I've had to deal with. With most splitters I've seen, the hydraulic fluid tank is box shaped. With this unit, the tank is thin shaped but quite long, and is mounted above the axle. The fill plug is located at one end of this long tank, and the plug is vented. If you position the splitter on a slope with the fill plug/vent on the down slope end, hydraulic fluid will spray out of the vent hole. I guess there is pressure inside the tank. The manual does say to use it only on level ground, and this is a bit of an issue for me because my ground ain't that level. I can always take a small jack with me and level it though. The predator engine always starts on the first pull, which I'm not that used to with most of my other engines. After the first oil change, I'm thinking of running synthetic in it for easier starting if we have a bitter cold winter, which appears to be what we are in for.


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## Philbert (Nov 28, 2014)

chuckwood said:


> The fill plug is located at one end of this long tank, and the plug is vented. If you position the splitter on a slope with the fill plug/vent on the down slope end, hydraulic fluid will spray out of the vent hole.



Can you plumb in a short extension, to effectively raise the filler cap opening? Just a thought.

Philbert


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## chuckwood (Nov 28, 2014)

Philbert said:


> Can you plumb in a short extension, to effectively raise the filler cap opening? Just a thought. Philbert



Yeah, that would be easy to do. Good idea, I'm gonna try that.....


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## Ayatollah (Nov 28, 2014)

chuckwood said:


> I've been splitting with it yesterday and today. So far, so good. It does have one issue that I've had to deal with. With most splitters I've seen, the hydraulic fluid tank is box shaped. With this unit, the tank is thin shaped but quite long, and is mounted above the axle. The fill plug is located at one end of this long tank, and the plug is vented. If you position the splitter on a slope with the fill plug/vent on the down slope end, hydraulic fluid will spray out of the vent hole. I guess there is pressure inside the tank. The manual does say to use it only on level ground, and this is a bit of an issue for me because my ground ain't that level. I can always take a small jack with me and level it though. The predator engine always starts on the first pull, which I'm not that used to with most of my other engines. After the first oil change, I'm thinking of running synthetic in it for easier starting if we have a bitter cold winter, which appears to be what we are in for.



My brother-in-law has a HF splitter, and I've borrowed it. My experience with it has brought me to the conclusion that it spits fluid out because the RPM's are too high. When it does this, the fluid is usually too hot from same. Slow it down slightly and see if that doesn't cure your problem. Other issues I've seen with this machine were that the big steel plate on the end bent a little and isn't stright. I think it might be a little too weak of steel. Also, the pressure control spring bolts have vibrated loose several times. And lastly, the position of the hoses are in the gravity zone of falling wood after splitting. It needs a shield or platform


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## chuckwood (Nov 28, 2014)

Ayatollah said:


> My brother-in-law has a HF splitter, and I've borrowed it. My experience with it has brought me to the conclusion that it spits fluid out because the RPM's are too high. When it does this, the fluid is usually too hot from same. Slow it down slightly and see if that doesn't cure your problem. Other issues I've seen with this machine were that the big steel plate on the end bent a little and isn't stright. I think it might be a little too weak of steel. Also, the pressure control spring bolts have vibrated loose several times. And lastly, the position of the hoses are in the gravity zone of falling wood after splitting. It needs a shield or platform



Well, we spent the better part of the day splitting with this new HF splitter. Since I'm breaking in the engine, I'm running it at about half throttle, so I don't think it's rpm's making it spit hydraulic fluid. It only happens if I tilt the machine sideways with one wheel higher than the other, and the lower wheel is where it spits. I'm assuming that all hydraulic fluid tanks must have a vent. If the big steel plate on the end bends too much, then the cylinder will bind and hang up in the heavy steel frame it moves through, there's not much clearance there. After my two year warranty has expired, I'll weld on it and beef it up with more plate. If anything bends or breaks before that, HF is gonna give me a new splitter - or I ain't ever buying any more two year warranties from them. I'm not sure what pressure control spring bolts are, but I have noticed a couple of bolt heads on the pump, one on each stage. Yes, the position of the hoses and the motor are in the gravity zone of falling wood, and this is a typical Harbor Freight situation where you have to "improve" their product to make it perform better, I like tinkering in the shop so the next project is to fab up some shields, I already know where I will be bolting on the brackets for the shields. Today, we split a big bunch of elm and hackberry, and the machine did well. It groaned and moaned through some of them, using the second stage of the pump. So far, so good. Here's a pic of today......


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## dave_376 (Dec 9, 2014)

FYI they are on sale for 699 with a coupon


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## Montana Squatch (Jan 10, 2015)

How's the splitter holding up? Thinkin of getting one.


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## chuckwood (Jan 10, 2015)

Montana Squatch said:


> How's the splitter holding up? Thinkin of getting one.



With mine, so far, so good. A few days back I split some tough, stringy hickory with it, and it did just fine. Every now and then I got a knotty round stuck on the splitter, one that I should have noodled instead of trying to split. Since the splitting wedge travels in both directions, all I have to do is reverse it and it will push itself back off the wedge. On a conventional design, I have to stop and get a sledge hammer and beat the stuck round off the wedge. As soon as the two year warranty expires, I plan on welding some more steel plate here and there on the unit to beef it up some. I also plan on installing some metal shields around the motor and hydraulic hoses to prevent rounds from falling off there and smacking into em. I'm really impressed with the predator engine, it starts on the first pull, even in cold weather. I run pure gasoline in all my small engines.


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## Montana Squatch (Jan 10, 2015)

How much was the 2 year coverage? 10%?


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## chuckwood (Jan 10, 2015)

Montana Squatch said:


> How much was the 2 year coverage? 10%?



As I recall, the 2 year extended warranty was 129 dollars. That's about 10% of the regular non sale price of this splitter. It was worth it for me because I plan on using this machine pretty hard, I'm clearing woods right now and firewood is a useful byproduct. I heat with wood and so do some friends and relatives. I'm gonna be the wood Santa for a while. I've heard that HF is pretty good about honoring extended warranties, so if I break it, they'll buy me another one. We'll see what happens.


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## KMatt (Jan 10, 2015)

I read this whole thread. Pathetic I know. From the comments you'd think that Briggs engines are complete garbage, and Honda engines must be assembled by Jesus, in Germany, with Swedish components. I only have experience with one Honda GX engine. I'm sure most are excellent, this one isn't. It's on an I/R air compressor. Sometimes it's one pull and it's running, then it's one pull and running and dies after 30 sec. And then some days it won't start, at all, no matter how much I cuss. The only positive about this engine is once it has ran for 2 minutes or so, you know it's in a good mood. I cannot figure it out.

Then the Briggs engines. Maybe I'm lucky, idk. But, I've never owned one that gave me problems. Can't remember ever using someone else's that wasn't dead reliable. Currently I think I own the most reliable sub 6 hp engine in existence. It's a Briggs on a push mower of all things. I'd bet a 100 dollar bill it could set for a month, prime it twice and it's going to run on the first pull, no choke. I have not used the choke on this engine in years.


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## chuckwood (Jan 11, 2015)

KMatt said:


> I read this whole thread. Pathetic I know. From the comments you'd think that Briggs engines are complete garbage, and Honda engines must be assembled by Jesus, in Germany, with Swedish components. I only have experience with one Honda GX engine. I'm sure most are excellent, this one isn't. It's on an I/R air compressor. Sometimes it's one pull and it's running, then it's one pull and running and dies after 30 sec. And then some days it won't start, at all, no matter how much I cuss. The only positive about this engine is once it has ran for 2 minutes or so, you know it's in a good mood. I cannot figure it out.
> 
> Then the Briggs engines. Maybe I'm lucky, idk. But, I've never owned one that gave me problems. Can't remember ever using someone else's that wasn't dead reliable. Currently I think I own the most reliable sub 6 hp engine in existence. It's a Briggs on a push mower of all things. I'd bet a 100 dollar bill it could set for a month, prime it twice and it's going to run on the first pull, no choke. I have not used the choke on this engine in years.



I have a big bunch of small engines on all sorts of machines, 2 cycle and 4 cycle, and by hard experience I've found that a major factor in engine performance is using pure gasoline instead of alcohol gas. I've become quite experienced in rebuilding carburetors that were clogged up by using ethanol gas. It takes less time to find and use pure gas than it does to rebuild carbs. I've got Briggs engines, and found that most are good engines, but not as good as Honda. The worst is Tecumseh, which is now out of business. I had an almost new rototiller some years back with a Tecumseh engine that blew up on me. The coil assembly vibrated off and hit the flywheel, tearing them both up and the tiller sat in the garage for three or four years. I replaced the T engine with an easy bolt on Harbor Freight predator motor I bought new for around a $100. It works great and starts on the first pull.


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## Philbert (Jan 11, 2015)

chuckwood said:


> The worst is Tecumseh, which is now out of business.


Tecumseh made a lot of good snowblower engines, used on Toros and a bunch of other models. Mine always started on the 1st or 2nd pull, even after 8 months of storage.
(No, we don't use snowblowers year round in Minnesota!).

Philbert


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## zogger (Jan 11, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Tecumseh made a lot of good snowblower engines, used on Toros and a bunch of other models. Mine always started on the 1st or 2nd pull, even after 8 months of storage.
> (No, we don't use snowblowers year round in Minnesota!).
> 
> Philbert



Too bad they aren't convertible to another yard tool some how, front mount mower maybe? Big round hauler outer?


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## Jim Timber (Jan 11, 2015)

zogger said:


> Too bad they aren't convertible to another yard tool some how, front mount mower maybe? Big round hauler outer?



I've seen them used for power wheel barrows. Putting a set of wheels on a dump bed might not be that bad an idea.


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## [email protected] (Jan 11, 2015)

So can the 20% discount code be used on this splitter still or not anymore? Splitter is selling for $699 before code.


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## tla100 (Jan 11, 2015)

Jim Timber said:


> I've seen them used for power wheel barrows. Putting a set of wheels on a dump bed might not be that bad an idea.



I use mine year round, I call it a skid loader


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## chuckwood (Jan 11, 2015)

[email protected] said:


> So can the 20% discount code be used on this splitter still or not anymore? Splitter is selling for $699 before code.



No discount code for the splitter. I tried and they told me no discounts on stuff powered by predator engines. Still, I think $699 is a good price on a splitter. Another farm supply chain store is selling this very same splitter, just with a different paint job and brand label. Their price is at least $300 more, as I recall.


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## Montana Squatch (Jan 14, 2015)

chuckwood said:


> As I recall, the 2 year extended warranty was 129 dollars. That's about 10% of the regular non sale price of this splitter. It was worth it for me because I plan on using this machine pretty hard, I'm clearing woods right now and firewood is a useful byproduct. I heat with wood and so do some friends and relatives. I'm gonna be the wood Santa for a while. I've heard that HF is pretty good about honoring extended warranties, so if I break it, they'll buy me another one. We'll see what happens.



One last quick question. Could you please measure how tall it is? I'm wondering if I could get it inside by truck bed with a topper on. I know it will be tight and kinda a pain but don't have anywhere to put splitter or my topper if I had to take it off. Thanks for the info


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## chuckwood (Jan 14, 2015)

Montana Squatch said:


> One last quick question. Could you please measure how tall it is? I'm wondering if I could get it inside by truck bed with a topper on. I know it will be tight and kinda a pain but don't have anywhere to put splitter or my topper if I had to take it off. Thanks for the info



Will do. I haul mine in a landscapers type trailer that has a long ramp at the back of it. Even then, I have a *lot* of difficulty in pushing/pulling this 450 lb machine up the ramp by myself. With a pickup truck you'll need a long ramp and a helper to get this thing in the truck bed. The manual states that it is not certified for highway towing. But the wheel bearings and tires are fairly heavy duty, so you might be able to get away with doing that up to 45 mph or so.


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## Montana Squatch (Jan 16, 2015)

chuckwood said:


> Will do. I haul mine in a landscapers type trailer that has a long ramp at the back of it. Even then, I have a *lot* of difficulty in pushing/pulling this 450 lb machine up the ramp by myself. With a pickup truck you'll need a long ramp and a helper to get this thing in the truck bed. The manual states that it is not certified for highway towing. But the wheel bearings and tires are fairly heavy duty, so you might be able to get away with doing that up to 45 mph or so.



That would be great thanks. Unfortunately I tow a trailer for the wood, my Tacoma can't handle a full cord. Is the splitter really 450lb? The specs say 360. I can get my 320lb dirt bike up on my truck no problem, I just get a running start. I guess I'll just have to keep my topper off the next couple of months and leave the splitter in the bed


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## chuckwood (Jan 16, 2015)

Montana Squatch said:


> That would be great thanks. Unfortunately I tow a trailer for the wood, my Tacoma can't handle a full cord. Is the splitter really 450lb? The specs say 360. I can get my 320lb dirt bike up on my truck no problem, I just get a running start. I guess I'll just have to keep my topper off the next couple of months and leave the splitter in the bed



I just measured and you'll need around three feet of clearance. That's not precise because it's sitting in a field right now in heavy grass, when I get it back on pavement I can make a more precise measurement. I have a camper top on my F250 and it looks like the splitter would just make it in there. You could lower it an inch or two by removing the valve handle which is the highest point on the splitter - you would just pull a pin out to do that. Not sure about the 450 lb figure, I remember reading it somewhere, but it sure feels like it. With a dirt bike you can get some momentum helping you up the ramp. Not so with this thing, pulling it around holding the trailer tongue is awkward, there's a lot of weight there because of how it's balanced. The only way to get it into the back of a pickup truck with a camper top would be to push it in backwards so you could lift the trailer tongue up in the air to level the thing as it goes in. I don't see any way to do that by yourself unless you're built like a pro wrestler. The weight of the steel frame and cylinder is mostly forward of the wheels. That 360 lb figure is also probably minus hydraulic fluid and gas.


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## Philbert (Jan 16, 2015)

Winch. 

Philbert


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## Jim Timber (Jan 16, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Winch.
> 
> Philbert



Block and tackle + rope = <$50

I loaded my DHT 27T onto a trailer via ramps with a 700# rated ratchet strap myself. Getting it off took another person, but if I had better rigging I could've done it alone.


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## chuckwood (Jan 17, 2015)

Montana Squatch said:


> One last quick question. Could you please measure how tall it is? I'm wondering if I could get it inside by truck bed with a topper on.



I just measured the height of the splitter on pavement, and it is exactly 35 1/2 inches tall. So 36" of clearance is probably the minimum you could work with.


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## Philbert (Jan 17, 2015)

Jim Timber said:


> Block and tackle + rope . . . .



(But then you have to make all the '_whirring_' noises by yourself . . . )

Philbert


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## litefoot (Jan 18, 2015)

Chuckwood,
Thank you for the great follow-up report on your splitter! This has been a fun thread to read as it drifted from the two-way HF splitter to the relative virtues of Honda small engines (as compared to B&S) and then to the overall customer experiences at NT and HF. And finally we end by discussing ways to load s splitter into the pickup. Ya gotta love it!

I just wanted to say that I usually split dry lodge pole pine and I rarely, if ever, need to drive the wedge clear through the wood. It would be wasted effort. Most of the time, I "bump" the round and it splits and I back out the 2-3" of travel and I'm ready to split again. So the two-way wouldn't be an advantage to me. Others splitting wetter more stringy wood might see more benefit. At least that's the way I see it. Tell me if I'm wrong.


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## MarylandGuy (Jan 24, 2015)

zogger said:


> Too bad they aren't convertible to another yard tool some how, front mount mower maybe? Big round hauler outer?


 You could always mount a circular bug zapper in the chute and run it in a MN summer. I hear those guys have either have a driving snow in the winter, or a driving mosquito population in the summer.


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## chuckwood (Jan 24, 2015)

litefoot said:


> Chuckwood,
> 
> I just wanted to say that I usually split dry lodge pole pine and I rarely, if ever, need to drive the wedge clear through the wood. It would be wasted effort. Most of the time, I "bump" the round and it splits and I back out the 2-3" of travel and I'm ready to split again. So the two-way wouldn't be an advantage to me. Others splitting wetter more stringy wood might see more benefit. At least that's the way I see it. Tell me if I'm wrong.



The two way saves time if you are splitting longer rounds up to 24". With the long round, no need to wait for the wedge to retract, it's already in position. With short pieces you don't save as much time. Around here, the only lodge pole pine I see is the framing lumber scraps I split with a hatchet, and it splits with no effort at all. My guess is that a lodge pole round with no knots could be split a lot faster with an axe or maul than with a hydraulic splitter. And yes, a lot of my wood is stuff like elm or hackberry, or even some knotty yellow pine. Need a splitter for that.


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## Mike-M (May 15, 2015)

Any updates (problems) with it yet?


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## chuckwood (May 16, 2015)

Mike-M said:


> Any updates (problems) with it yet?



I worked mine pretty hard during the winter, no problems yet. After I get all my veggie gardening work mostly done, I'll be running it more, assuming I can take the heat. I like processing firewood in the winter. Summer is a different issue when I have a choice between working outside or hanging around indoors, turning on the ac, and wasting time online instead.....


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## Mike-M (May 18, 2015)

Im a winter guy too.


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## row.man (Sep 5, 2015)

I just bought one of these splitters and fired it up friday evening. so far I've split over 2.5 cords of wood with it, I have to say it has beaten every expectation I had for it.
Right now if you get the flyer in the mail, there is a coupon to get the splitter for $650, call ahead though, the sales guys told me the splitters are flying out the door, they had one in stock when I got there. Of course I bought the two year warranty for it, another $179, this is Harbor freight after all, and I also had to buy 3 gallons of hydraulic fluid, and a quart of oil, almost another $50. So I really spent $877.89 total.
Assembly was straight forward, though I would warn anybody buying one to have a strong helper to get the ram assembly onto the trailer section, I did it myself, and it took three tries.
The predator engine is fairly quiet, my neighbor came out and sat on his patio to watch me run the new splitter, he was about 20 feet away, and said it is nice and quiet.
My son decided he wanted to help split wood, I got my 3 ton electric homelite splitter out and powered it with my Subaru/Robin Homelite generator. The generator needed to be run, and my gas is free anyway. Comparing the Predator engine to the S/R for noise, the S/R is just a hair quieter, but neither is really that loud. My B&S lawnmowers are louder.
I could actually run the predator engine on the lowest setting and still split any wood I have. I have lots of maple from a big old tree that fell in a thunderstorm, way bigger than the "16 size limit in the paperwork, nothing has stopped the splitter yet. I prefer to run the engine at the middle of the throttle setting.
I still have a few more cords cut and waiting to be split, this baby is going to get a real workout!


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## row.man (Sep 6, 2015)

It looks too me like HF took a design meant to be mounted on a tractor or skid steer and added a cheap trailer and motor to make a splitter.
While the splitter doesn't go vertical, I just use one of my trailer ramps to roll any huge rounds up onto the work table. My ramps are a 2x8 with a ramparts casting at the top. The casting locks into the grill work of the table.
I also got rid of the cotter pins that retain the work tables, I replaced them with spring pins, so I can pull the table off to get the ramp casting in and out of the deck.


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## zogger (Sep 6, 2015)

row.man said:


> It looks too me like HF took a design meant to be mounted on a tractor or skid steer and added a cheap trailer and motor to make a splitter.
> While the splitter doesn't go vertical, I just use one of my trailer ramps to roll any huge rounds up onto the work table. My ramps are a 2x8 with a ramparts casting at the top. The casting locks into the grill work of the table.
> I also got rid of the cotter pins that retain the work tables, I replaced them with spring pins, so I can pull the table off to get the ramp casting in and out of the deck.View attachment 445586



That looks like it works just fine!


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## row.man (Sep 6, 2015)

The cycle time is fast even with the throttle pulled back, I found it easier to park my trailer along side the splitter and toss the splits in as fast as they fall on the work table. Each trailer load comes near a third of a cord. A serious overload on the roadroad, but no issue for 30 feet to the stack.
I shut the engine off with the on/off switch while stacking and find one pull restarts it.
Unlike one poster said, my splitter has roller bearings in the wheels, so towing is possible, however the tires are not DOT so not legal?
I tried to store the splitter in the basement, but the wheel hub caps make it just too wide to fit in a 40" doorway.
I do find I have to put a board under the front leg or it digs into the ground over the hours of splitting.


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## chuckwood (Sep 6, 2015)

row.man said:


> I just bought one of these splitters and fired it up friday evening. so far I've split over 2.5 cords of wood with it, I have to say it has beaten every expectation I had for it.
> Right now if you get the flyer in the mail, there is a coupon to get the splitter for $650, call ahead though, the sales guys told me the splitters are flying out the door, they had one in stock when I got there. Of course I bought the two year warranty for it, another $179, this is Harbor freight after all, and I also had to buy 3 gallons of hydraulic fluid, and a quart of oil, almost another $50. So I really spent $877.89 total.
> Assembly was straight forward, though I would warn anybody buying one to have a strong helper to get the ram assembly onto the trailer section, I did it myself, and it took three tries.



I purchased one last winter, and used it hard with no problems so far. However, when I bought mine, they weren't available in the stores. I had to go to the Conway freight terminal in Knoxville to pick mine up, and they loaded the crate onto my trailer using a forklift. Seems to me it would take around four guys to pick that crate up and put it in a pickup truck if there's no forklift. I bought a 5 gallon bucket of AW32 hydraulic fluid for it for around 50 dollars including tax - Advance Auto. It's cheaper per gallon that way, leaving you with two extra gallons of fluid to use for the next fluid change. With the temps cooling down into the low 80's soon, I'm about to take mine out from under the tarp and start splitting again.


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## row.man (Sep 7, 2015)

It took three salespeople and me to get it onto my trailer. With my ramps two could have gotten the furniture dolly in the trailer. I just opened the crate and built the splitter as parts came off the trailer.


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## DrewUth (Sep 29, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Was this you Zog?
> 
> View attachment 355523
> 
> ...




Ha! I have one of those books- "how to keep you VW ALIVE"

Great illustrations just like that throughout the entire thing.


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## row.man (Aug 28, 2016)

The splitters are on sale again, just got a coupon for 679.99 in the latest flyer. I've split over 6 cords with no issues yet


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## lknchoppers (Aug 31, 2016)

Seems like your mind is made up. I would not buy any of that stuff, it looks like junk. I would buy a used homemade splitter over most of the box store type anyway.


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## chuckwood (Aug 31, 2016)

lknchoppers said:


> Seems like your mind is made up. I would not buy any of that stuff, it looks like junk. I would buy a used homemade splitter over most of the box store type anyway.



I've had my HF splitter for 2 years now, keep it outside wrapped up under a tarp, and I've used it very hard. The engine still starts on the first pull, no hydraulic leaks anywhere, and I'm happy with it so far. The extended warranty is about to expire and I plan on modifying it by welding some additional steel plate on it to make it more heavy duty. I'm going to install a curved metal shroud on it to protect the motor from split pieces of wood falling on it and causing engine damage - I've had a few close calls with that. I'll be making the engine guard from a piece of steel cut out of the side of a junk water heater tank. About the only way I could loose on this purchase is the hydraulic pump going bad. I've not checked to see if the small 2 stage pump is replaceable or repairable. Everything else I can fix if it breaks.


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## blades (Aug 31, 2016)

5t Electric splitter not apples to apples vs your gas unit.


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## row.man (Aug 31, 2016)

This is my predator 20 ton and some big oak I just split on Monday. 
The ramp is what I use instead of a log lift


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## blades (Aug 31, 2016)

chuckwood- i have a HF 30ton that is almost 14 years old- pump ( I don't whose) motor ( Briggs) Ram ( No Idea) are OEM. Beam, valve, wedge, pusher plate, hoses replaced. Plus I added a small auxiliary tank that keeps the main tank completely full as the return line is too high on the main tank and would cause air entranment in the oil. Also Have a little 4 ton? rated electric HF unit as well - looks just like all the rest out there right now except it has only a 14" throw, about 16 years old. Still works, use it for short chunks that I can't run through the bandsaw. ( it is slow -single acting cylinder - it uses springs to retract the ram,+ ya got hold the pushbutton down and activate the valve with the other hand.)


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## row.man (Jan 15, 2018)

after a few years and many cords of wood, and being left out all winter last season, I let a friend borrow my splitter, and it came back stuck in the high pressure low flow side of the pump.
It still splits, just takes forever.
I went digging and found the pump manufacturer, and even a schematic, which was what I wanted to get into the pump and verify that I don't have a broken spring or garbage under the pressure valve.
this is a link to the manufactureres page.
http://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/w...eli-product-catalog-2012/85493-422495-_9.html
the pump is a Cali Hyd CBK1-C6/F2.1CD
My hydraulic oil was looking nasty, so I will replace it at the same time.


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## chuckwood (Jan 15, 2018)

row.man said:


> after a few years and many cords of wood, and being left out all winter last season, I let a friend borrow my splitter, and it came back stuck in the high pressure low flow side of the pump.
> It still splits, just takes forever.
> I went digging and found the pump manufacturer, and even a schematic, which was what I wanted to get into the pump and verify that I don't have a broken spring or garbage under the pressure valve.
> this is a link to the manufactureres page.
> ...



This is great, now I know where to get a replacement pump if I ever need one. Right now, my relatively new HF splitter is still broken down. I wasn't exactly surprised when this happened, I paid around $700 for it, used it hard for 2 years and it's paid for itself. HF quality is questionable, but I'm a cheapskate and enjoy the challenges of modifying HF machines to make them work much better or more reliably. It seems the issue with my machine is failed seals in the big hydraulic cylinder. My next project is to remove the cylinder and see if it can be serviced by replacing all the seals in it. It's hard to believe any company, even a chinese one, would build an expensive hydraulic cylinder that cannot be rebuilt - who would want something like that? I wouldn't. But the problem is finding the manufacturer of the cylinder, getting info on how to take it apart, and finding a rebuild kit. Finding and obtaining HF parts isn't easy. I'm impressed that you found the maker of the pump. If I can find out who made the cylinder and where the parts are I'd be more enthusiastic I reckon about taking the splitter apart. The other option would be to take the unit to a hydraulic shop and see if they can rebuild it. If it's all a no go, I reckon I'd sell it cheap for parts and look for a similar machine built in the USA. I like the dual split feature, you can work faster with it. I just looked at a 20 ton dual split model made by Brave, and it probably costs around 1400 dollars or so. But the design is much better, the hydraulic cylinder is enclosed inside a heavy piece of steel square channel that slides back and forth inside another piece of square channel. With the HF dual split, what moves out instead when you split is the cylinder itself. Probably puts a lot more sideways stresses on the piston. Here's a pic of the Brave dual split in action.


[/QUOTE]


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## Philbert (Jan 15, 2018)

Chuckwood, can you replace the ' ]' mark at the end of row.man's quote, so that it is easier to read your post?

Thanks

Philbert


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## Jim Timber (Jan 15, 2018)

Hydraulic cylinders are cheap; even the big ones.

Surplus Center's website should make you happy if you need one.


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## sb47 (Jan 15, 2018)

If you are going to depend on it and it's something that will get a lot of use. Buy the best you can afford. I've never been as disappointed spending more for better quality, then I have going cheap and regretting it.


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## chuckwood (Jan 15, 2018)

Jim Timber said:


> Hydraulic cylinders are cheap; even the big ones.
> 
> Surplus Center's website should make you happy if you need one.



I just checked it out, looks like a good place to get cylinders. Problem is, I don't know exactly what my cylinder is called. It's different from nearly all the rest in that the hydraulic hoses are attached to the rod instead of to the outside of the cylinder. Fluid under high pressure goes into the setup through the inside of the rod. Rod remains stationary at all times and the cylinder moves instead. If I knew what this type of hydraulic cylinder is called, it would be easier to find one in a catalogue.


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## Philbert (Jan 15, 2018)

chuckwood said:


> . . . I don't know exactly what my cylinder is called. It's different from nearly all the rest . . .


Take a couple of photos. Take a couple of measurements. Send those to the company and start a conversation.

Philbert


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## kevin j (Jan 15, 2018)

I don’t know if there is a special name, but you are describing it correctly. One port is drilled all the way through to the closed end side of the piston. The other port is drilled almost to the piston, then cross drilled out into the rod side space. 
It is more expensive and takes deep drilling tools, so it is usually only done on very special reasons, like telescopic cylinders. There must be some odd reason they went this way. Maybe there is not enough space around the body of the cylinder to fit ports or even welded tubing connections?

Force and area wise, no difference as long as you compare bore and rod sizes the same, and of course are extending in the right direction for push on the closed side area.

Look around the cylinder space inside the structure to see if a ‘normal’ off the shelf one would work. You might have to attach the 90 degree port adaptors and tube or hoses, then slide the cylinder inside the beam. 

Or, you might get a cylinder with welded tube connections. One style is welded to the barrel with the tube at 90 degrees, then the tube is bent to be parallel to the barrel. This takes a couple inches of space to make that bend.
The tightest fit has a round spud welded to the barrel, with the hydraulic tube welded to that 90 degrees out the side. That can be as close as an inch of space.

See if you have the space, then look at off the shelf cylinders with same bore, rod and stroke.

Having one made custom is very easy, just not cheap. Most shops do very little ‘catalogue’ work and most of their work is custom for OEM customers. However, a quantity of one, for design and fabrication, is expensive. Also, the custom stuff is usually for much heavier duty than the ag or consumer market, so uses heavier materials, better seals, kpiston wear bands, etc. thus more cost yet. A Surplus Center cylinder at $200 catalogue could likely be 400-500 with some custom build.

yes, pics would help.


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## kevin j (Jan 15, 2018)

Row.Man: 
Pump pics would be helpful.
If your pump is stuck in low flow mode, but builds full pressure just fine, it means the unloading valve has shifted to unload the large gear like it should, but is not shifting back. Given that you said the oil is really bad, I suspect dirt or water or rust got into the valve cartridge.

Take out the two cartridges, disassemble and clean. One will be a check valve, no adjustment, but that is probably working fine or you would not be able to develope pressure on the small gear side. You could leave that alone for now. 

The other cartridge, that has the adjustment, is the unloading valve. You might not be able to totally disassemble it as there are usually wire clips or crimps for assembly, but get it cleaned and freed up and you should be back in business. I doubt very much there will be any RP parts for it if it is a chinese pump.

Then change fluid, only partially fill it, cycle a few times, dump again, refill and run it. And add a return filter if you don’t already have one.

Then only loan it out to the quality of friends you would loan a chainsaw to. Which means, very few. Just go with it and help and run it and see that it is taken care of.


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## Jakers (Jan 15, 2018)

we had a lengthy discussion on this subject in another thread too. the cylinder would have to be custom built or bought factory direct for these. the wedge is welded to the cylinder wall and the fluid runs through the rod. not cheap or easy to replace. if the cylinder goes bad and you dont have easy access to cheap labor in a hydro shop, the machine is basically a throw away


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## kevin j (Jan 15, 2018)

All:
Unfortunately, the cheap cylinders often use just an oring or two as the piston seal, and no wear bands or lip seals. Easy to find and replace, just not very long lived or durable or efficient. Once you have it open, you can measure the groove and bore dimensions and get replacement orings easily. The rod seal and rod wiper might be a bit more difficult, but hopefully the metric dimensions were just copied from Parker seal inch dimensions. Any good industrial supplier can get standard Parker seals and wipers. They have the bulk of the market for industrial cylinders, at least in the lower priced ‘normal’ stuff.


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## row.man (Jan 16, 2018)

This is the pump, I just got the model info off the pump and searched for the manual. 
The writing is Chinese, but the pictures are what I really needed, I'm a mechanic for a living, I just need a good picture to figure stuff out. 
It's hard to see, but there is a larger cap under the black section in the middle of the cap.
This covers the adjustment screw.
Directly above this on the top is another plug, under it I found a small spring, like a pen would have inside, and a small piston. .
There is one more plug on top, towards the inlet port, I would guess this is the high flow, low pressure end of the pump, and the plug sits over the unloading valve. 


This is the inlet screen, shown unthreaded, it is inside the round cover bolted to the hydraulic tank, that the inlet hose to the pump attaches to. 
While I had it apart, I added an elbow to remove a kink in the hose, minimizing any inlet restrictions. 
It has a coarse screen mesh, I tried to find a replacement, but nobody has one locally.


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## kevin j (Jan 16, 2018)

wedge is welded to the cylinder wall and the fluid runs through the


ouch. that closes the door on replacement cylinder. 
with welding heat distortion, and bending load from wedge putting stress into cylinder wall, i would not be optimistic about long cylinder life. 
run it til she breaks i guess.


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## Jim Timber (Jan 16, 2018)

Wouldn't be hard to re-engineer so it used a standard cylinder. Then again, not everyone has a machine shop at their disposal.


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## Jakers (Jan 16, 2018)

The Northern Tool "Powerhorse" brand and the "Brave" brand are the same style but built with a telescoping square tube design using a tie rod cylinder. this is a much better and rebuild-able design.
4seasons pointed out some very key differences
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...eight-log-splitter.249279/page-2#post-4647858


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## Philbert (Jan 17, 2018)

Jakers said:


> The Northern Tool "Powerhorse" brand and the "Brave" brand are the same style . . .


They share some common ownership, as I understand it

Philbert

http://www.gnedi.com/Public/Portal.aspx


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## Jakers (Jan 17, 2018)

Philbert said:


> They share some common ownership, as I understand it
> 
> Philbert
> 
> http://www.gnedi.com/Public/Portal.aspx


huh, i guess they also own CEI. I order all of my stump grinder teeth and brush chipper knives through them. great place and 1-3 day shipping from Rogers, MN to here

Edit: I guess they own Iron and Oak now too. their version of the 20ton dual split looks nice although strangely familiar....


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## kevin j (Jan 17, 2018)

It’s not clear if they actually own these different brands or are distributors for them. sounds like it’s some of both for different brands


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## Jakers (Jan 17, 2018)

kevin j said:


> It’s not clear if they actually own these different brands or are distributors for them. sounds like it’s some of both for different brands


that's kind of what I gathered from their website too


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## Philbert (Jan 17, 2018)

I was told by someone at Northern Tool that there is common ownership of these companies and Northern Tool. Might be certain individuals. Might be some overlaps. But apparently, they are 'related'. This came up when NT discontinued their 'Powerhorse' 2-way splitter, but I was told that I could still get a version through GNE.

Does not offend me if they control multiple brands. Some are designed and marketed for rental use, individual use, store brands, etc., so there may still be differences between motors, pumps, gauge of steel used, etc. Just interesting to know about the common parentage if you are, in fact, looking for a 'different' manufacturer . 

Philbert


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## row.man (Jan 30, 2018)

Took apart the outer port, there is this ball bearing, and another spring like a spring from an automatic pen.
I cleaned the seat for the ball bearing, and really assembled it all.
Refilled the tank, and fired it up.
I think it is back to normal.


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