# FarmerTec Huztl MS180/250 Complete Chainsaw Kit



## Bedford T (Aug 14, 2017)

Guys, if you been wanting a new small saw they just released this kit for 55$. Hard to believe! Shipping to me on the east coast of the US is $62.89. $118 even. So you get to have a little fun.

Thats two kits in a month!

http://www.huztl.net/Complete-Repai...nk-Cylinder-Piston-Ignition-Coil-p588557.html

MS250
http://www.huztl.net/Complete-Repai...nk-Cylinder-Piston-Ignition-Coil-p588558.html


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## HarleyT (Aug 14, 2017)

$118 even??


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## Bedford T (Aug 14, 2017)

Yep. I see I did not list the $65 for the Ms250. Tbohn just said both ship for $200

$217.11 for both US


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## HarleyT (Aug 14, 2017)

How much to get them to put them together?


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## Bedford T (Aug 14, 2017)

Lol


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## davhul (Aug 14, 2017)

That's not a bad price for the 250. I've used 2 of their engine kits for a 250 and one for a 180.
I don't mind building clamshells they can be put together pretty quick.


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## s sidewall (Aug 14, 2017)

Rebuilt a 180 with one of their engines for 45.00, running strong.

Steve Sidwell, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk


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## Bedford T (Aug 14, 2017)

I look forward to giving the 250 a whirl. I got a 070 wispering in my ear. 

Something's up with shipping. I got two orders that seem to have dropped into a black hole. Must be customs.


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## Rudolf73 (Aug 21, 2017)




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## a. palmer jr. (Sep 25, 2017)

I was just wondering if anybody had bought any of these kits and put them together. Price is okay but shipping is about the same as the saw I think...I guess I'm a bit confused, they list the 250 at 128.00 then when you click on it it goes to 65.00. Does the 128 equal the saw + shipping?


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## Bedford T (Sep 25, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I was just wondering if anybody had bought any of these kits and put them together. Price is okay but shipping is about the same as the saw I think...I guess I'm a bit confused, they list the 250 at 128.00 then when you click on it it goes to 65.00. Does the 128 equal the saw + shipping?



That's for both the 180 and the 250 together. I have yet to order. I just did another 660 and have not finished my 070 build because of one delay or another. I saw a 250 put together and it looked good. I am certain they are good as the rest just plastic. You can just order one. I think they are showing you it's a good buy for both.

They are lighter so shipping is less. Add it to cart to see cost of shipping


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## davhul (Sep 25, 2017)

I thought about building a 250. Their simple to build with way less parts


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## a. palmer jr. (Sep 25, 2017)

The 250 has always been a pretty good seller. I'll check on the cart price..
I noticed they've lowered the price to 118.00.


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## Bedford T (Sep 26, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> The 250 has always been a pretty good seller. I'll check on the cart price..
> I noticed they've lowered the price to 118.00.


The 118 price includes you using the 2$ coupon.


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## a. palmer jr. (Sep 26, 2017)

I was just checking prices for now, probably not gonna buy for awhile, got too many saws as it is..


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## Bedford T (Sep 26, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I was just checking prices for now, probably not gonna buy for awhile, got too many saws as it is..


I wasn't trying to sell you one. You was asking about price and that what I found. The math on the 118 stumped me and then I recalled the coupon. Just pointing that out.


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## a. palmer jr. (Sep 26, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> I wasn't trying to sell you one. You was asking about price and that what I found. The math on the 118 stumped me and then I recalled the coupon. Just pointing that out.


 No problem, I appreciate the effort. I may still buy one or two but right now I haven't been able to sell much so I'll have to put it on hold.


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## davhul (Sep 28, 2017)

I know this isn't a Huztl 250 but it builds the same. I plan on getting one soon to see how well it's made. 
Assembly is really easy and if you do it a lot it can be built in less than half the time of the 660. 
I Disassembled for cleaning and crank seals







I put a light coat of dirko on the seals and got the sump ready for assembly



the engine bolts have to be installed after the engine is in place. The coil also has to be removed or slid all the way back for the engine to clear.



when the handle assy is being put on don't forget to slide the impulse hose on the nipple



and already have the front bushing installed on the orange cover then install in the case housing






I didn't take the chain brake apart but it's easy also. Without the cleaning it only took around a hour to disassemble and reassemble.


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## Bedford T (Sep 28, 2017)

nice job, your cleaning setup allows you to get a real nice looking saw. that's a great looking machine. i gotta get one. the plastic holds up too! I bet its easy to miss that impulse numb. not that many parts.


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## davhul (Sep 28, 2017)

I cleaned it in the parts washer. then spray it with purple stuff while rising in the sink.


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## deereguy (Sep 29, 2017)

Nice cleanup. For your consideration: I don't put dirko around the seals when assembling. But on the other hand I generally replace the seals? Always pressure test. Make sure you put a dab of dirko where the pan and cylinder mate together on the seal.


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## davhul (Sep 29, 2017)

Thanks It runs good to. 
Those were new seals and I add the dirko to help seal and hold them in. Those that was in it were loose. Stihl says smear some around the pro saw seals so I do it to the clams to.


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## Bedford T (Sep 29, 2017)

davhul said:


> Thanks It runs good to.
> Those were new seals and I add the dirko to help seal and hold them in. Those that was in it were loose. Stihl says smear some around the pro saw seals so I do it to the clams to.


Makes good sense to add the dirko


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## Nick Tonios (Oct 1, 2017)

Hello from Australia everyone. It's my first time posting on here. Thought someone might find this useful.
I bought the ms250 kit after coming across it online. Couldn't help myself after seeing the price $65US. The shipping cost is not given to you until you sign into PayPal which might be part of their angle for selling these things. I tried to find some shipping cost estimates on their website but couldn't. Still pulled the pin and ordered it, shipping was roughly $62US. 

Kit arrived a week later but was missing the clutch and clutch drum. That wasn't stopping me from assembling most of the saw so I thought I'd get it together and see what other parts issues I had before I got in touch with their customer support. Saw went together fairly well although the fit and finish on some of the parts was piss poor to say the least.

- The bolts supplied to mount the motor to the case are the correct stihl thread but the motor threads were machined to M5. I managed to get them all the way home by running the bolts through the threads a few times prior to final engine assembly.
- Flywheel casting around keyway was very rough and wasn't allowing flywheel to seat all the way onto taper of crankshaft. This also caused the starter mechanism to not fully disengage, damaging the starter prawls and also rubbing on the spool. 
- Fuel vent hose came broken from transit or factory. 

I gave a pull to see if it would start (probably not a good idea without the clutch and drum but wasn't going to run it long) which she did eventually. Tested the stop switch which was good also. Left it at that for now, waiting for parts

Dealing with the customer service for parts you're missing is not a problem but trying to convince them of faulty parts is another story. I bought some extra spares and they threw in the missing parts on that order. I could've persisted longer with the back and forth but when you're dealing with people that speak English as a second language it just gets painful after days of messages and the longer it went on the longer I'd be without parts.


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## Rudolf73 (Oct 1, 2017)

Nick Tonios said:


> Hello from Australia everyone. It's my first time posting on here. Thought someone might find this useful.
> I bought the ms250 kit after coming across it online. Couldn't help myself after seeing the price $65US. The shipping cost is not given to you until you sign into PayPal which might be part of their angle for selling these things. I tried to find some shipping cost estimates on their website but couldn't. Still pulled the pin and ordered it, shipping was roughly $62US.
> 
> Kit arrived a week later but was missing the clutch and clutch drum. That wasn't stopping me from assembling most of the saw so I thought I'd get it together and see what other parts issues I had before I got in touch with their customer support. Saw went together fairly well although the fit and finish on some of the parts was piss poor to say the least.
> ...




Thanks for the feedback Nick. I was also curious about these kits, but I've heard similar stories about their after sales service... unfortunately.


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## a. palmer jr. (Oct 1, 2017)

I think I've heard enough about these kits to not order one. I think that if I want one of these I'll just find a trashed OEM saw and rebuild with aftermarket parts and end up still cheaper. Right now I have a 250 and I use an Echo 330 for the smaller stuff so I don't need the aggravation of ordering a kit. For some reason saws aren't selling too well this year so I think I'll save some space also..


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## blsnelling (Oct 1, 2017)

davhul said:


> Stihl says smear some around the pro saw seals so I do it to the clams to.


That's only for those with a metal body.


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## davhul (Oct 1, 2017)

Hey brads up. It's not only for the metal oil seals. They say it for the clam engine also.


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## krushing73 (Oct 1, 2017)

I really want to go to the other end and build the 660. Is there any instructions available to show you how to assemble it. I've done some porting and rebuilding but not from scratch


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## Bedford T (Oct 1, 2017)

krushing73 said:


> I really want to go to the other end and build the 660. Is there any instructions available to show you how to assemble it. I've done some porting and rebuilding but not from scratch


Are you new?


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## Bedford T (Oct 1, 2017)

Here is a step by step
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...-ms660-updated-build-kit-build-thread.313223/


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## blsnelling (Oct 1, 2017)

davhul said:


> Hey brads up. It's not only for the metal oil seals. They say it for the clam engine also.


I learned something today


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## blsnelling (Oct 1, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> Are you new?


Matter of fact, he is.


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## krushing73 (Oct 4, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> Are you new?



Mostly a part time lurker and a weekend warrior. I live on the gulf coast and only start thinking about saws when the weather starts turning cool. I tried to search before I asked.


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## Bedford T (Oct 5, 2017)

krushing73 said:


> Mostly a part time lurker and a weekend warrior. I live on the gulf coast and only start thinking about saws when the weather starts turning cool. I tried to search before I asked.


welcome. did not recognize you. the 660 kit is a good one. when i did my first there was not actually any helpful step by steps that let you see detail. that has all changed and everyone can get in on it. even guys that are know it all learn from it. being a builder does not make you an expert in troubleshooting, but if you don't get excited you can get thought it. time is your friend then. if you need help there will be plenty.


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## Bedford T (Oct 24, 2017)

I put together a parts list for the ms250 kit and have it posted on my website and the website is in my sig/footer. I did not post it here because I could not come back later and make corrections or additions. You will find it on the kit fact page. Should be able to copy paste and print and check off as you unpack and if anything is wrong let them know quickly. I also included a few suggested parts. They wrote and told me that that swear they are fixing the flywheel etc. That would be great if anyone buys a kit after today let us know how it went.


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

This 250 kit is a hot mess. man have they shot themselves in the foot with this baby. they said they were going to correct the problems but i honestly believe they need to start over from scratch. except the cylinder kit appears to be great. I have all these projects and delays and picked this kit up today thinking I could get a few things done and i wound up spending the day fighting fires. the clearances on the plastic are horrendous.

they wrote and told me how sorry they were and would replace the missing and bad stuff I found right away and a week later I never got tracking. Another contact, Oh yea we will get that right out now. then today uncovering this stuff. The kit is HORRIBLE. I will detail every item here over time and maybe it will embarrass them and maybe in the future they will change.

Somebody who has not done this a lot will really have their hands full here.

Look at this wire they sent. The kill switch wire had no barrel on it. What am I suppose to do with that, wait another two weeks?


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

So i did not want to have to mess around with a bad carb so i bought a walbro wt-215. I set them side by side tonight and am now glad I did. the red is pointing out the differences.


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

I will start with the case. the area around the oil pump was buggered up really bad. The oil cap would not stay on because of the case finish. The seals did seat in the grooves, that was a miracle. the fuel tank held pressure and vented. Zero problems with the cylinder kit. Spark threads were not used yet. I am going to include the baffle pate around the manifold here. it's cut out to route the coil wires was very small and it was a task to cut it out larger when it was installed so the wires would not be pinched or over time harmed. The coil wire did not have any heat shield on it, in this case protection from the sharp edges was most important so I installed one.


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

on the handle i showed you the kill switch above. The manifold was really tuff to pull in because of the finish on the hole, rough and sharp. Also, the handle impulse channel had a big hunk of plastic that would interfere with the manifold's ear laying properly. it had to be removed and was not really evident, the passage was open. the manifold was really hard to align with the roof, no notch or anything to show you have it aligned properly, i finally marked the outside with a gray marker to show the boundary's so i could align it as i slipped it on. Not sure if a stihl is like that. The impulse hose was very questionable. the ones on the larger saws were fine and usable, not this one. It tore and I replaced it with R3. I don't see how it would have worked anyway. It seemed short and the angle it comes off the cylinder it might have bent.


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## a. palmer jr. (Oct 29, 2017)

I've ordered several parts from Huztl and they fit just fine for the most part but it seems in the kits they don't try as hard for quality. I kinda wonder if they aren't using seconds for the kits..


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

The chain catcher is a teet off the clutch cover and not a desirable design to me. i know that they used them and changed them to something better. My local dealer has the one in the ipl for 4$ so i will pick that up and grind this one off after i am sure of the fitment of the one I want.


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I've ordered several parts from Huztl and they fit just fine for the most part but it seems in the kits they don't try as hard for quality. I kinda wonder if they aren't using seconds for the kits..


I tell ya its a sure fire thing they are aware of it and must be doing that very thing. I think they build, lets say 500 kits and store them in a trailer and when the order comes in the worker pulls what he needs and sends them down the road. so that mistake is repeated time and time again until all those kits are gone. 

i was an Ahole with them recently over this. they have begun to play games. its not worth it. i asked why they did not open the boxes and fix the problems and they just ignored me and went into this worthless apology that was not honest. i would much rather sing their praises when they deserve it and on the other hand, oh well....watch out.


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## a. palmer jr. (Oct 29, 2017)

I was considering buying a kit or two for next year but think better of it now. I've heard others say that parts are missing, don't fit, etc. so I think I'll wait.


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## 82F100SWB (Oct 29, 2017)

I just bought a flywheel, recoil assy and clutch cover/chain adjuster for my ms250c to delete the easy2start and quick adjust.
The recoil assy is decent, the clutch cover is fine, the flywheel had a bit of casting flash that I cleaned up on the outer side of the taper, but nothing that made it unusable. The chain adjuster fit well, and will probably be fine.


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## Conquistador3 (Oct 29, 2017)

Huztl/Farmertec is good for many cheap parts: Walbro carb kits, whole Zama carbs, oil pumps etc. I had a batch of carburetors delivered just last week and they are absolutely fine and less than half the price they would be if bought from some EU vendor (and they are exactly the same thing).
But if you buy a whole saw from them and expect it to go together like it should, you are in for a whole lot of pain. I've bought from them some parts that either required a lot of work to be made to fit or just fell to pieces after less than one season of not particularly intense work. The recoil starters for Honda engines they carry are some of the sorriest pieces of junk I've ever seen and most of their pre-cut fuel and oil lines are nigh on useless. 

From what I understand Huztl/Farmertec is just a distributor: they buy parts from factories across China, repackage them and sell them. 
There aren't hundreds of factories across China manufacturing recoil starters for Honda engines or Zama carburetor clones. Probably just a couple. Like all similar outfits, their products are available in three or four "grades", depending on how much the customer wants to spend. These grades range from decent to junk. 
And like many similar outfits, Huztl/Farmertec has zero control over their vendors, meaning if parts are ill-fitting or whatever they cannot do much more than simply tell the factory manufacturing the part. If however Huztl bought the bottom grade stuff they are unlikely to complain because they just knew what they were buying.

How many parts are in a chainsaw kit? They are very likely to come from dozens of vendors with no unified quality control system and be of several different grades, hence unlikely to go together without a lot of work.


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I was considering buying a kit or two for next year but think better of it now. I've heard others say that parts are missing, don't fit, etc. so I think I'll wait.


Even if the kits had problems, so many, result after notifying them. Palmer one of the most disappointing things in my recent life is the way this has turned out with them. You know how much crap I took for them. So even with me they say we will resend but don't. I think the Chinese are crazy. No honor. Like many of us. But the difference is we believed they were just stumbling and they were actually treating us like idiots. Oh sorry we no understand. We are idiots when we believe that kinda of stuff. 

Those that are having no trouble now will in the future. Buying small or large people do it to save money. Some of us lose time and money. But being mislead over and over is cumulative and winds up being personally painful.


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## dougand3 (Oct 29, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> So i did not want to have to mess around with a bad carb so i bought a walbro wt-215. I set them side by side tonight and am now glad I did. the red is pointing out the differences.


The differences won't affect function. These carb bodies are for the MS 180 (And other models for the Walbro - unopened impulse hole at 12 o/c). The 6 o/c impulse hole is brass plugged and a 7 o/c hole is drilled making a slanted internal tube for impulse.
Even with both 6 o/c and 7 o/c holes open, if you had a good carb gasket, doubt you'd have impulse leak and saw would run fine. But safer to plug unused impulse hole.


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

dougand3 said:


> The differences won't affect function. These carb bodies are for the MS 180 (And other models for the Walbro - unopened impulse hole at 12 o/c). The 6 o/c impulse hole is brass plugged and a 7 o/c hole is drilled making a slanted internal tube for impulse.
> Even with both 6 o/c and 7 o/c holes open, if you had a good carb gasket, doubt you'd have impulse leak and saw would run fine. But safer to plug unused impulse hole.


Thanks but I am pleased with the walbro. "doubt" is not good enough when you are yanking on that cord wondering why it will not fire, or you go lean in a cut. i got and extra "doubt" if you are shopping, brand new in the box. lol. fix you right up


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## a. palmer jr. (Oct 29, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> Even if the kits had problems, so many, result after notifying them. Palmer one of the most disappointing things in my recent life is the way this has turned out with them. You know how much crap I took for them. So even with me they say we will resend but don't. I think the Chinese are crazy. No honor. Like many of us. But the difference is we believed they were just stumbling and they were actually treating us like idiots. Oh sorry we no understand. We are idiots when we believe that kinda of stuff.
> 
> Those that are having no trouble now will in the future. Buying small or large people do it to save money. Some of us lose time and money. But being mislead over and over is cumulative and winds up being personally painful.


 I noticed you did speak for them on this forum but I didn't know if you had an official position with them or not. Sometimes I'll tend to brag about something online and others seem to think I'm working for them or getting paid by them and I'm just putting out an opinion. I noticed the Chinese use our language in a way that kinda confuses us, I had assumed they didn't have a good grasp of our language but I'm of the opinion now that they could have been conning us all along to gain an advantage. But the Chinese aren't the only ones...ever try ebay? I get took by them quite a bit but I'm tapering off my business through them also...


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## Walter Glover (Oct 29, 2017)

Bedford, are the issues you found actually deal breakers? Cleaning, deburring and smoothing parts is something every kid learned while building models. To me these kits are bigboy models so would expect to do the same effort. 
BTW how does the ms381 run? 
Walter


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## a. palmer jr. (Oct 29, 2017)

They would be deal breakers for me because I'm only partially interested in one anyway...I already have one good MS250 and I'm working on three MS180 saws right now.


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

Walter Glover said:


> Bedford, are the issues you found actually deal breakers? Cleaning, deburring and smoothing parts is something every kid learned while building models. To me these kits are bigboy models so would expect to do the same effort.
> BTW how does the ms381 run?
> Walter


No. There actions are the deal breakers. How much effort NOT related to making the saw run are you willing to endure. That's the issue here.

Follow along. I buy the kit and it arrives missing stuff. 

Now you say ok I will go buy the stuff. After a while and many "I will go buy the stuff" you decide to make them replace it.

Now you gotta convince them. They will make that so painful. So Send me drawing. So send me picture. Blah blah.

Ok now they say we will send it is that ok? You might miss that. But if you don't respond they will never ever send it. Common sense plays no role.

Ok now you catch that and say where's my tracking. Oh we send now. So now you got two solid weeks in just requesting the parts.

The parts arrive another 14 days, they are paying freight and they send slow, recall you have sent them pictures and drawings and you open that box and often it's the wrong part.

Now you get to start all over. Their excuse is worker made mistake or something. But they make you work just as hard and now you wait again

I am not going on with this surely you understand me. This happens to me all the time.

Except I know for sure there excuses are crap. Last year I was their only cheerleader and they promised reform. I was delighted because this is my hobby. I do not work for them but I have asked to be a stateside kit Depot so problems could be fixed quickly. I have given them extensive feedback on what to improve and when. Rang alarms when important stuff happened they needed to know about. I mean immediately. 

So when I tell them something is missing and they give me the run around or I see them give you the run around I communicate to them.

I am seeing the better they do the less they care. Breaks my heart.

Think about this problem. They are sending out ms250 kits all over the world literally with a flywheel that is so poorly finished I worry it could shatter besides not fit and run properly. I get wind of it and say you have this problem. They say our workers are trained poorly, that whole problem. I said no that's poor management. You send somebody out to that trailer where you stacked those kits and open every one of them and pull the bad parts and replace with good parts. They talk about bad workers instead.

So this is the problem I am aware of what's really going on and they don't understand that my mommy did not raise no fool. 

So you just wait until it affects you and then you can decide if it's a deal breaker.

Little things like that brake band pin. They are producing. Or bought. I bought knowing the saws we're safe because they were exact copies of great saws. The brake bank and the flywheel are two examples of that ethos going the wrong way. Is that really a deal breaker. It could be. Will me whined openly while they read it from their office help. I certainly hope so. That's the point.

I recently wrote in the thread they were to monitor what should we build thread. I buried one line in my most recent post...fix the huztl website search box so the word search goes away. It's still there. Is that in their interest. I could go on. This was way more than I intended


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## Walter Glover (Oct 29, 2017)

Sorry Bedford I had no idea it was that bad. Just becoming interested in a kit saw and so uninitiated as yet. Will rethink where my dollars go for sure
Cheers eh


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

I hope people buy from them. I hope they keep prices low.

I hope people make them responsible so we have cheap safe parts. But you gotta make them and after a while they will see it's more profitable to them to do it right the first time. They will be happy we will be happy. I love buying stuff and putting it to use.


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

Walter Glover said:


> Sorry Bedford I had no idea it was that bad. Just becoming interested in a kit saw and so uninitiated as yet. Will rethink where my dollars go for sure
> Cheers eh


Buy a 440 kit or a 660 kit. When you buy it tell them you would like a good 250 kit when they are serious. .

I recently bought a 660 updated kit and wrote about it. I was missing some small stuff I am still waiting on. I did not see it when I did box video. Quality was better, great. So I am hanging with them but I am going hammer them and encourage people like you to buy but make them make it right. Enough people do it they will. I am sure of it.


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

Just noticed recoil is wrong


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

the kill switch uses something similar to a spade not a barrel. I guess they just sent the closest thing. the red wire is way to small even if you slide the insulator back . the actual part number for the harness is 1123 440 3002.


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## 82F100SWB (Oct 29, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> Just noticed recoil is wrong


What's wrong with it? The one I put on my genuine saw felt cheap, but fit and works fine.
Didn't have an OEM one to compare though.


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

82F100SWB said:


> What's wrong with it? The one I put on my genuine saw felt cheap, but fit and works fine.
> Didn't have an OEM one to compare though.


It would not fit. But I noticed, just noticed, it might work if the brake handle was not anchored. My flywheel is missing and wiring not complete. So to do brake I anchored handle and did not notice it was why. I will remove and try again. Might be all it takes. I have never seen one. It is light weight!


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

Big difference lol


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## 82F100SWB (Oct 29, 2017)

My neighbor has a genuine 025, and from what I remember when I changed the coil on it for him, the OEM recoil is a pretty lightweight part as well. 
I'm just happy it works, my patience for the easy2start was gone..


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

The kill switch I think has been narrowed down to the spring not the wire they sent. The plastic seat does not hold the spade tight but the spring will not hold it open and when it's closed it over shoots the spade by a mil. 

I just saw a photo of the oem spade and the tip of the Stihl spring has more of a roundness to the end. I am glad to understand it now. No experience with this type switch


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## Bedford T (Oct 29, 2017)

82F100SWB said:


> My neighbor has a genuine 025, and from what I remember when I changed the coil on it for him, the OEM recoil is a pretty lightweight part as well.
> I'm just happy it works, my patience for the easy2start was gone..


This coil looks high quality. It is very light weight. The coil wire is Japanese I think. Of course it hard to tell. But that's my impression from seeing lots of AM coils. 

I am glad this does not have easy start but they did use two pawls like the easy start. Good thing to me


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## 82F100SWB (Oct 29, 2017)

Does this help with the kill switch?


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## a. palmer jr. (Oct 29, 2017)

I think on some of those little Stihls they actually use a a female spade end on the shutoff switch instead of the barrel. Kinda threw me at first because the 290s use the barrel.


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## Bedford T (Oct 30, 2017)

82F100SWB said:


> Does this help with the kill switch?


It does. The thing is I know more now but something is still up. Could be the control arm cut out, or the spring. The.spade is loose. I know I could jam something in there but it need to fit properly so when I turn it off it works after what ever I shove in there settles.

But I think the spring is missing it's mark and not making full contact. It looks like there is about two rat hairs space between the spade in the spring. I studied on it and I don't think the wire is the problem. So maybe the plactic is not holding the spade correctly or the spring is over shooting it. Dang hard to tell which


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## a. palmer jr. (Oct 30, 2017)

I have had several Stihl saws in here that had problems with the OEM switch not lining up right or over or undershooting the contact point. It's as much a problem with the design of the parts as is is the manufacture of them in my opinion. They should have designed them so there is a little more tolerance.


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## JPW3 (Nov 2, 2017)

Hello, First time posting here. Ordered a Farmertech cylinder, crank, piston assembly. For an MS 180. Problem is it is "ticking" on up and the down stroke. took it apart and compared it to the original assembly. One thing I noticed was the OEM connecting rod has needle bearings where it meets the crank and piston pin. The Farmertech does not and this is where the slop "tick" is coming from. Anyone else have this experience and is it ok to just run it?


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## a. palmer jr. (Nov 2, 2017)

JPW3 said:


> Hello, First time posting here. Ordered a Farmertech cylinder, crank, piston assembly. For an MS 180. Problem is it is "ticking" on up and the down stroke. took it apart and compared it to the original assembly. One thing I noticed was the OEM connecting rod has needle bearings where it meets the crank and piston pin. The Farmertech does not and this is where the slop "tick" is coming from. Anyone else have this experience and is it ok to just run it?


 I just bought a piston kit for a 180 and it had the needle bearings, it was Chinese but not Huztl/Farmertech. I guess it depends on how much play is in the wrist pin bearing whether you run it or not. Up and down play is pretty critical in those reciprocating assemblies..


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## davhul (Nov 2, 2017)

Are the needle bearings missing or are they trying to use a bushing now? 
I have a huztl ms180 topend and crank I was sent for testing for a unrelated problem. This one has a bearing and no up and down movement.


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## JPW3 (Nov 2, 2017)

davhul said:


> Are the needle bearings missing or are they trying to use a bushing now?
> I have a huztl ms180 topend and crank I was sent for testing for a unrelated problem. This one has a bearing and no up and down movement.



I'm not sure if it is designed w/out the bearings or not. There is a lot of slop at the ends so I'm suspicious.


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## JPW3 (Nov 2, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I just bought a piston kit for a 180 and it had the needle bearings, it was Chinese but not Huztl/Farmertech. I guess it depends on how much play is in the wrist pin bearing whether you run it or not. Up and down play is pretty critical in those reciprocating assemblies..



Do you remember what Brand you bought? Also I think I can get away with a new piston using all the old components. Any recommendations?


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## Bedford T (Nov 2, 2017)

JPW3 said:


> I'm not sure if it is designed w/out the bearings or not. There is a lot of slop at the ends so I'm suspicious.


Have you asked the seller?


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## Bedford T (Nov 2, 2017)

JPW3 said:


> Do you remember what Brand you bought? Also I think I can get away with a new piston using all the old components. Any recommendations?


FarmerTec on www.huztl.net


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## JPW3 (Nov 2, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> FarmerTec on www.huztl.net



Thanks


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## JPW3 (Nov 2, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> Have you asked the seller?



I contacted him when I heard the "ticking". I hadn't pinpointed the problem at that time. He did give me a prompt refund and said they haven't been working with the product for very long.


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## a. palmer jr. (Nov 2, 2017)

JPW3 said:


> Do you remember what Brand you bought? Also I think I can get away with a new piston using all the old components. Any recommendations?


 I didn't see a brand name on the parts or the box but the ebay sellers name was Exciting-Racing. Kind of an odd name and I'm sure the kit was from China but the seller is in California if I remember correctly.
I didn't buy just the piston/cylinder kit, I bought the whole engine but it was apart.


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## Bedford T (Nov 2, 2017)

JPW3 said:


> I contacted him when I heard the "ticking". I hadn't pinpointed the problem at that time. He did give me a prompt refund and said they haven't been working with the product for very long.


So he just sells the stuff. That's a reason I want the relationship with FarmerTec to work. We can talk to the manufacturer and the seller. The same actually but never the less we could have gotten an answer to your question. That is important sometimes


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## a. palmer jr. (Nov 2, 2017)

It appears to be a gamble buying these parts from China. Just as long as you know beforehand and agree that in gambling you don't always win..I buy quite a few of their parts and don't complain when I get a bad part, I usually throw it away..


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## Bedford T (Nov 2, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> It appears to be a gamble buying these parts from China. Just as long as you know beforehand and agree that in gambling you don't always win..I buy quite a few of their parts and don't complain when I get a bad part, I usually throw it away..


A fella can spent his dough any way he wants. I would imagine you work that in your price. I can't.


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## kwikfix (Nov 2, 2017)

I think I'll save my money and buy the real thing and stop supporting China as they steal everybody's patents


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## Bedford T (Nov 2, 2017)

kwikfix said:


> I think I'll save my money and buy the real thing and stop supporting China as they steal everybody's patents


I just bought some stuff they don't make and I paid a lot. On some stuff it's about the same but a lot less. Sometimes not. China makes about everything you use and it's not their fault


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## a. palmer jr. (Nov 2, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> A fella can spent his dough any way he wants. I would imagine you work that in your price. I can't.


 I can sometimes but lately haven't had any bad parts from Huztl or anybody else. Sometimes a part doesn't fit a saw I'm working on but that's my fault much of the time. Like today, I'd forgot that a Stihl 017 and 018 take a different coil. Can't blame the parts vendor for that, they sent the part that I ordered..


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## Bedford T (Nov 4, 2017)

as i get further along more stuff raises its head. to check the installation of the oil pump i slid the worm on, or tried too and it would not go. the worm must have been for a 170. i even tried to file some away and never could get it to work. i did order one and it appears to fit and mate correctly with the oiler. but need to get further along to be sure. maybe next week I will get the parts I should have already had and can see....a hot mess this thing.


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## 82F100SWB (Nov 4, 2017)

I have seen a few of these successfully built with the supplied pieces on Facebook et al. so far. Seems like the parts issues you are running into aren't consistent across the board. 
I will get one of these kits, but I think I will wait a bit longer.


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## Bedford T (Nov 4, 2017)

82F100SWB said:


> I have seen a few of these successfully built with the supplied pieces on Facebook et al. so far. Seems like the parts issues you are running into aren't consistent across the board.
> I will get one of these kits, but I think I will wait a bit longer.


I have not seen enough people even say they bought one much less completed a running one. Just get you one from Facebook. Then you will know for sure you are safe

I saw a guy on YouTube his parts were horrible. His must have not come from Facebook


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## 82F100SWB (Nov 4, 2017)

I have seen 2 so far posted that were complete and running, and about as many besides yours with parts issues. I wasn't implying anything other than it seems that the parts issues are inconsistent so far or the couple I have seen had OEM parts subbed in without mentioning it.
Not implying anything about Facebook being better, just passing on what I have seen.
Like I said, either way I'm going to hold off a bit on getting one of these kits to see if the parts get better like the bigger saw kits have done.


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## Bedford T (Nov 4, 2017)

82F100SWB said:


> I have seen 2 so far posted that were complete and running, and about as many besides yours with parts issues. I wasn't implying anything other than it seems that the parts issues are inconsistent so far or the couple I have seen had OEM parts subbed in without mentioning it.
> Not implying anything about Facebook being better, just passing on what I have seen.
> Like I said, either way I'm going to hold off a bit on getting one of these kits to see if the parts get better like the bigger saw kits have done.


I assumed the parts came from a different source there. Did not take offense. Heck ya to the inconsistent. Two or four is not a big enough of a sample


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## a. palmer jr. (Nov 4, 2017)

In my opinion the OEM Stihl 170-180 is bad enough, can't see where the Hutzl could be much worse. I've got three fairly new 180s in the shop that wouldn't run, seems that all the non-adjustable carbs are junk..along with people using ethanol in them. You can't clean them out very well since you can't take the adjustment screws out to let them soak. I have one I soaked in carb cleaner overnight so I'll see if that worked..


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## Bedford T (Nov 4, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> In my opinion the OEM Stihl 170-180 is bad enough, can't see where the Hutzl could be much worse. I've got three fairly new 180s in the shop that wouldn't run, seems that all the non-adjustable carbs are junk..


What are they feeding them? E15 or maybe some E85 to save money?


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## JPW3 (Nov 4, 2017)

davhul said:


> Are the needle bearings missing or are they trying to use a bushing now?
> I have a huztl ms180 topend and crank I was sent for testing for a unrelated problem. This one has a bearing and no up and down movement.


Went ahead and pulled it apart. There are needle bearings on the piston end , but doesn't appear to be any on the crank end cannot see them like I can on the old OEM crank. It also doesn't look like I can get the rod off the crank to inspect it.


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## 82F100SWB (Nov 4, 2017)

The Stihl shop I worked at years ago didn't carry anything below a 250, much for that reason. I've only actually had my hands on one 017 outside of a dealer showroom... LOL


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## 82F100SWB (Nov 4, 2017)

JPW3 said:


> It also doesn't look like I can get the rod off the crank to inspect it.



The crank is pressed together. It can be serviced, but it is not normally done. 
Sounds like they forgot the bearing in your case, time for them to send you another crank, or engine.


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## a. palmer jr. (Nov 4, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> What are they feeding them? E15 or maybe some E85 to save money?


 The owners of these saws use ethanol I would imagine. I drive 20 miles one way to buy 91 octane non-e gasoline and mix my own fuel. Even my Wild Thing gets non ethanol fuel mix. It's hard to make the owner understand that these engines don't like ethanol and it's not good for a saw to sit for two years with fuel in them..


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## 82F100SWB (Nov 4, 2017)

There are very much two camps when it comes to two strokes, those that know and care, and those that think gas is gas. Run into it all the time in sleds, "It would only run full choke now it's dead, I don't know what happened" and the tank is full of yellow stank.


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## Bedford T (Nov 4, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> The owners of these saws use ethanol I would imagine. I drive 20 miles one way to buy 91 octane non-e gasoline and mix my own fuel. Even my Wild Thing gets non ethanol fuel mix. It's hard to make the owner understand that these engines don't like ethanol and it's not good for a saw to sit for two years with fuel in them..


My neighbor who I love like a brother uses ethanol and will not quit. He did break down and let me give him a gallon of av100 gas to sit in his Generator after he replaced the carb. It amazes me how resistant people are to using good fuel.


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## a. palmer jr. (Nov 4, 2017)

I think it's more that most people are against spending the money to buy the proper fuel...I guess they'd rather spend more to buy a new piston/cylinder when their carb stops up and leans out...on the last 180 I worked on I finally broke down and put a new carb on it--fully adjustable..


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## Bedford T (Nov 10, 2017)

My replacement parts arrived today. sad


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## Matt Hogden (Nov 10, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> My replacement parts arrived today. sad


Dont do it.
DONT BUY HUSTL.
.
The MS180 and 250 are Stihls cheapo saws and are readily available second hand for next to no money at all. Worn out ones are almost worthless. I got given a MS180 the just needs a rebuild.
Just find a second hand one, strip it down, rebuild it if it needs it, dress her up a bit, and run it.
Then you end uo wuth a QUALITY saw that works, not a piece of absolute rubbish from Hustl

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## Bobby Kirbos (Nov 10, 2017)

Matt Hogden said:


> Dont do it.
> DONT BUY HUSTL.
> .
> The MS180 and 250 are Stihls cheapo saws and are readily available second hand for next to no money at all. Worn out ones are almost worthless. I got given a MS180 the just needs a rebuild.
> ...


I know I'm going to get flamed, but I would bet that a Poulan from Lowes is going to be a better quality saw unless you replace half of the Huztl parts with OEM.

I've been keeping an eye this thread and I believe my plans to put together a Huztl 180 just fell through. I'll buy an Echo CS-310 instead.


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## 82F100SWB (Nov 10, 2017)

The Poulan that your neighbor gives you because it won't run and needs a fuel line is even better because it was free... I always have at least one and I have never bought one.


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## a. palmer jr. (Nov 10, 2017)

82F100SWB said:


> The Poulan that your neighbor gives you because it won't run and needs a fuel line is even better because it was free... I always have at least one and I have never bought one.


 Yep, a guy gave me four of them a few weeks ago. I kinda like the Wild Thing tho...


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## JPW3 (Nov 10, 2017)

Matt Hogden said:


> Dont do it.
> DONT BUY HUSTL.
> .
> The MS180 and 250 are Stihls cheapo saws and are readily available second hand for next to no money at all. Worn out ones are almost worthless. I got given a MS180 the just needs a rebuild.
> ...


Any recommendations on aftermarket parts ? The farmer tech engine I received was ticking. looked like there were no bearings on the crank end. Saw is used for residential use. I like quality, but don't need to go overboard. After taking the original engine apart (ms 180) I need a new piston.... Thanks


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## Bedford T (Nov 10, 2017)

Bobby Kirbos said:


> I know I'm going to get flamed, but I would bet that a Poulan from Lowes is going to be a better quality saw unless you replace half of the Huztl parts with OEM.
> 
> I've been keeping an eye this thread and I believe my plans to put together a Huztl 180 just fell through. I'll buy an Echo CS-310 instead.


Building the saw is what it's all about and winding up with something you can use. Just buy a 360 or larger saw. The experience is valuable. But begging and waiting is not worth it, on the ms250 or below. The other saw kits ms360 or higher are full of quality parts.

Just because these small kits are trash does not diminish the others that have proven over time to be great. Building is awesome and makes you a lot smarter if you don't have experience


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## Bedford T (Nov 10, 2017)

JPW3 said:


> Any recommendations on aftermarket parts ? The farmer tech engine I received was ticking. looked like there were no bearings on the crank end. Saw is used for residential use. I like quality, but don't need to go overboard. After taking the original engine apart (ms 180) I need a new piston.... Thanks



The small chainsaw kits turned out to be crap. What they put in the kits, in those kits, they could not afford to sell you individually because you would return and demand your money back.

We got a 180 engine the guy swore would not start. Turns out it ran fine. You can lose focus when you lose confidence in the part. The guy the lost confidence and the saw would not start for him. The saw started for the next guy that laid his hands on it. That's an unfair comparison because the other guy is an expert with tons of experience but still it ran, no magic. He knew it should work.

Ticking, no bearings. Are you sure on the no bearing? I am putting a 192t together and the piston only has one circlips and the piston bearing is integrated in the crank. Have you looked at your flywheel and made sure it's tight and nothing is touching it when chasing the tick?


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## Bedford T (Nov 10, 2017)

I spent a lot of time trying to get two circlips in that oem piston. A FarmerTec I bet uses two. So they are alike but different


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## a. palmer jr. (Nov 10, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> I spent a lot of time trying to get two circlips in that oem piston. A FarmerTec I bet uses two. So they are alike but different


 I like the way Echo does it best, two short ears on the circlip, just squeeze together and it goes in very easily.


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## Bedford T (Nov 12, 2017)

I just tried to save one of the crappy flywheels they sent. I hope no one has tried to file and force it. I took my time and tried to file it by hand with a nice set of small files and there is more to it. The balance is very poor. It will wobble and vibrate. I bet it soon would tear the engine oil seal. It's millimeters away without the nut forcing it down. So I am going to have to shell out half the cost of the kit to get a flywheel they or their source don't make. I attached a photo you can see the scratches on the stub, I never even tightened it down. Looking down the barrel of the flywheel it's off center


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## Matt Hogden (Nov 12, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> I just tried to save one of the crappy flywheels they sent. I hope no one has tried to file and force it. I took my time and tried to file it by hand with a nice set of small files and there is more to it. The balance is very poor. It will wobble and vibrate. I bet it soon would tear the engine oil seal. It's millimeters away without the nut forcing it down. So I am going to have to shell out half the cost of the kit to get a flywheel they or their source don't make. I attached a photo you can see the scratches on the stub, I never even tightened it down. Looking down the barrel of the flywheel it's off center


Hustl quality lol

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## Chris-PA (Nov 12, 2017)

Bobby Kirbos said:


> I know I'm going to get flamed, but I would bet that a Poulan from Lowes is going to be a better quality saw unless you replace half of the Huztl parts with OEM.
> 
> I've been keeping an eye this thread and I believe my plans to put together a Huztl 180 just fell through. I'll buy an Echo CS-310 instead.


I've had my dad's real MS250CM apart several times, once pulling the engine apart (he lets fuel sit and runs old fuel). I've been seriously unimpressed with the design and workmanship on that thing. That big orange plastic part has stuff attaching from all sides (so much for design for manufacturabilty), and no one had even thought about removing molding flash from it. It cost him $410! Poulans are made nicer and more logically designed. 

I've had a blast with my Zenoah clones and I use them regularly, but why would someone bother with a clone of something that's already so cheap?


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## Bedford T (Nov 12, 2017)

Chris-PA said:


> I've had my dad's real MS250CM apart several times, once pulling the engine apart (he lets fuel sit and runs old fuel). I've been seriously unimpressed with the design and workmanship on that thing. That big orange plastic part has stuff attaching from all sides (so much for design for manufacturabilty), and no one had even thought about removing molding flash from it. It cost him $410! Poulans are made nicer and more logically designed.
> 
> I've had a blast with my Zenoah clones and I use them regularly, but why would someone bother with a clone of something that's already so cheap?


To me it's about building the saws. I guess I could buy a Stihl and tear it to pieces and rebuild it. That makes no sense. Building kits do. I just need good parts in them.


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## a. palmer jr. (Nov 12, 2017)

I guess if a guy needed a hobby real bad he could wait for a cheap price on ebay and buy the parts separately. If you wait long enough you can find a flywheel or anything else for cheap and with free shipping.


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## Bedford T (Nov 13, 2017)

Waits my middle name.


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## a. palmer jr. (Nov 13, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> Waits my middle name.


 I'll wait to save a bunch of money...


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## Bedford T (Nov 14, 2017)

they want to play games and were not interested in making this right. i swear they are weird.


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## a. palmer jr. (Nov 14, 2017)

I'm not too crazy about selling on ebay but if you buy from ebay you have some leverage against bad sellers. Ebay almost always sides in with the buyer in a dispute. Why not buy your Huztl stuff on ebay instead of directly where they have the upper hand?


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## Bedford T (Nov 14, 2017)

i looked it up and it shipped on 10/9/17. 37 days and counting. this week I finally got the clutch side zipped. i found that the e clip was missing too, but i had some. clutch and sprocket looked good.

still talking and negotiating to get the flywheel side continues. hope they answer my email tonight and give me idea on what is going to happen.

i ordered the exhaust plate and flange for testing the saw. should be in this week. want to be ready should this complete.


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## Bedford T (Nov 17, 2017)

I actually have something great to report. here's why its great.

problem besides the flywheel was the futile nature of complaining. they would send you another bad flywheel and then balk at sending you another, often asking for it to ride with something else you needed to buy. you knew it was going to happen again. i knew they just did not get what was happening in their organization.

so after i determined the problem i began to get nasty but nice. complaining, complaining, but being direct and focused showing them each step where the problem was. they just did not catch on. i was being direct. i wrote to them, i wrote here, i even used video here. still not getting it.

i am leaving out a lot but this morning was the water shed moment. so yesterday they said yes we can replace flywheel and the brake bank with a pin. then i heard that in fact they could not ship the brake band because they did not have one with a pin. that's the moment right there. the left hand found the right hand. they caught a mistake by talking to one another before the item shipped. before they would have shipped the wrong brake band again.

i don't know how they did it internally, but someone took ownership of that problem and walked it through. so i wrote them and pointed that out how great that was. it was the first time in all my dealings with them where they were on top of it. this is great, really great for all of us. if they did it once they can do it every time. it was not an accident. they wrote and told me there was a problem with the part. i knew that ;-) but most important they needed too. so as they work on their process we will get what we order the first time or get notice of the problem and their plan for correcting it before it happens again. cool


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## ratman36 (Nov 25, 2017)

I thought the MS250 kit was pretty easy to build....It ran good after I used a original walbro carb....Clutch was way off...would not engage until 7000rpm. I replaced it with oem clutch from parts pile and all was well. I have 180 coming in mail. The 440 and 660 kits are much better. Only decompression valve and one chain tensioner so far on 6 builds.


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## Bedford T (Nov 26, 2017)

ratman36 said:


> I thought the MS250 kit was pretty easy to build....It ran good after I used a original walbro carb....Clutch was way off...would not engage until 7000rpm. I replaced it with oem clutch from parts pile and all was well. I have 180 coming in mail. The 440 and 660 kits are much better. Only decompression valve and one chain tensioner so far on 6 builds.


I used a walbro too. Still waiting on parts. Should be here end of this week. Are you replacing bearings and circlips too the impulse needs replacing I an using r3? My 250 leaked could not get a valid test around the bottom of engine in one side the plates would not seal. I am considering getting a used oem motor base. It Will run good I bet. I got 3 chains and a 18" bar so when time comes it can go.

Do you have plans to build a ms361? Unless they pop out a 460 or a 200t a 361 might be in my future.


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## ratman36 (Nov 26, 2017)

Never did a 361 maybe someday. I have done 250s.440s.660s and soon a 180 for a saw to throw on my side by side.


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## Bedford T (Nov 29, 2017)

The replacement flywheel arrived and is perfect


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## a. palmer jr. (Dec 1, 2017)

Looks like the prices have gone back up from the Black Friday sale..


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## ratman36 (Dec 8, 2017)

Got my 180 in mail today......gonna work on it soon. I will give review later on.


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## Bedford T (Dec 9, 2017)

I was going to start my new built 250 and the handle came off after 3 pulls. Bad sign. Least I did not build that part. Lol


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## Bedford T (Dec 9, 2017)

It gets better


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## 82F100SWB (Dec 9, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> It gets better


Maybe it's the OEM badge on there. The recoil I put on my genuine saw works perfectly... Lol


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## Conquistador3 (Dec 9, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> It gets better



Typical aftermarket starter. I do not know how many of the damn things I've thrown away. AM Honda GX starters are particularly bad: the plastic molding where the spring hooks up is apparently made of cottage cheese and the spring tends to "snake out" viciously when the starter is opened to perform a post-mortem.
Needless to say I do not like working on those things. Not one tiny bit.


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## Matt Hogden (Dec 9, 2017)

Hustl sheeeeet

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## Bedford T (Dec 9, 2017)

82F100SWB said:


> Maybe it's the OEM badge on there. The recoil I put on my genuine saw works perfectly... Lol


Gosh I thought it was an oem saw! It says so right there...lol. jinked the whole thing. I want my 50$ back


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## ratman36 (Dec 9, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> I was going to start my new built 250 and the handle came off after 3 pulls. Bad sign. Least I did not build that part. Lol


I had same thing happen on my 250. Plus replaced clutch with old oem one. I replaced dogs and pulley with oem one i had in parts bin. Check for interference with plastic pulley and fly wheel. It seems the flywheels don't set down far enough sometimes and causes problems.


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## ratman36 (Dec 15, 2017)

Got together and running good but not without some problems.


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## a. palmer jr. (Dec 15, 2017)

A little over a year ago I put an aftermarket starter assembly on my MS250 and so far it's working just fine. I will admit that the saw hasn't been used a whole lot.


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## ratman36 (Dec 17, 2017)

It did come with the fully adjustable carb. plugged hole in plastic housing. Or you can order a OEM style self adjusting carb for 8 bucks extra.


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## ratman36 (Dec 17, 2017)

Case to engine block are tapped for M5 bolts not self tapping,I got the black ones in picture from ACE hardware.


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## ratman36 (Dec 17, 2017)

Bent washer that sets behind clutch,could be flattened or replaced with OEM like I did.


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## ratman36 (Dec 17, 2017)

Biggest issue was flywheel with wrong taper.Backside was ok but front end was to wide. It set in correct position in and out. I tightened nut down and flywheel didn't have any run out. But could be a issue down the road. I will keep a eye out on ebay for a cheap OEM flywheel.


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## ratman36 (Dec 17, 2017)

Picture of kit laid out on table.....wife loves me. Shop is cold,lol.


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## ratman36 (Dec 17, 2017)

They had a 14" 3/8 LP .050 50DL bar and chain for 8 bucks. Top out a big tree over weekend used 3 tanks of fuel. Saw worked perfect..


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## 82F100SWB (Dec 17, 2017)

ratman36 said:


> They had a 14" 3/8 LP .050 50DL bar and chain for 8 bucks. Top out a big tree over weekend used 3 tanks of fuel. Saw worked perfect..


Been running that 14" setup on my ms250 since last winter. I'm pretty happy with it.


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## Bedford T (Jan 21, 2018)

I thought I had posted this here, but I have not. This kit was not like anything i have ever put together. Then the recoil would not work I decided I had put enough work into the saw and i wanted a small saw. So I started shopping and found a great deal on a pawn saw. The cylinder was good but it did have a coating of carbon on the exhaust port and the fuel system was badly damaged from bad fuel. I took the kit and used it to rebuild the Stihl 025 and could not be happier. I still have very little in it because i made sure the pawn shop knew what they were selling. So I had fun again but with very little frustration this time.


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## Bedford T (Jan 21, 2018)

Part two


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## Bedford T (Jan 21, 2018)

part 3


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## Bedford T (Jan 21, 2018)

part 4


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## Bedford T (Jan 21, 2018)

proof of life


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## Bedford T (Mar 25, 2018)

This pawn find ran great and it then it did not. Anytime you have a situation like that you guess a lot. Turns out it was all gunked up inside. The best I can tell it was a mixture of dirt and sawdust and oily fuel with another large cache of stink bugs. It got hard to start. Gunk was blowing up and blocking the impulse. I cracked it open this afternoon and yes that was it. I was cleaning it and it dawned on me to show you. I had already removed a large amount with one of the dental scrapers. You can still see where i was pulling it out of the hole. That's hard to figure out from outside the engine. The bearing and everything was coated in a cement like coating. Repair parts ordered


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## Bedford T (Mar 25, 2018)

Inspecting closer I noticed holes in the bottom of the engine. I washed it! and part of the cement came off and revealed them. This just keeps getting better. I wish I knew that cement was.


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## Country bumpkin (Mar 25, 2018)

Bedford T said:


> Inspecting closer I noticed holes in the bottom of the engine. I washed it! and part of the cement came off and revealed them. This just keeps getting better. I wish I knew that cement was.
> 
> View attachment 642140


That’s crazy


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 25, 2018)

I don't think I've ever seen holes in that plate before. It's aluminum so it couldn't have rusted through..


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## Bedford T (Mar 25, 2018)

Here is a look in the engine


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## Bedford T (Mar 25, 2018)

Look in the corner






http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


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## Country bumpkin (Mar 25, 2018)

Bedford T said:


> Look in the corner
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I knew I’ve seen that white cement crud before. One of 2 things in my opinion happened. High content of ethanol & it sucks in moisture & messes up anything metal. The other is saw was in a flood. I’ve seen that also. Just my thoughts. Ethanol is what I’m thinking. It will eat up aluminum quick.


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## Bedford T (Mar 25, 2018)

Country bumpkin said:


> I knew I’ve seen that white cement crud before. One of 2 things in my opinion happened. High content of ethanol & it sucks in moisture & messes up anything metal. The other is saw was in a flood. I’ve seen that also. Just my thoughts. Ethanol is what I’m thinking. It will eat up aluminum quick.


That's in line with my guess. Dirt saw dust and crappy fuel. I am really glad I caught that. New piston and then melt down would have suxed.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


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## Country bumpkin (Mar 26, 2018)

Bedford T said:


> That's in line with my guess. Dirt saw dust and crappy fuel. I am really glad I caught that. New piston and then melt down would have suxed.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Yes. Glad ya caught that. Usually I just scrape bit now I’ll do the light.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 26, 2018)

A lot of people still using ethanol in their mix, I quit using that garbage years ago...


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## Country bumpkin (Mar 26, 2018)

a. palmer jr. said:


> A lot of people still using ethanol in their mix, I quit using that garbage years ago...


Me too. It’s terrible crap.


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## Bedford T (Mar 26, 2018)

The fuel line was like stretch armstrong so I know ethanol was used. It is fed av100 now. As clean a fuel as motomix, same type fuel, except of course the small amount of lead that acts as a lubricant. It was just too far gone I guess. Piston came in today but they shorted me a circlip. Look forward to getting it running again.

The cylinder cleaned up beautifully. So that was not sand in the mix like I guessed.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


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## Matt Hogden (Mar 26, 2018)

Don't waste your money on Huztl/farmertec lads. It's rubbish

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## Country bumpkin (Mar 26, 2018)

Bedford T said:


> The fuel line was like stretch armstrong so I know ethanol was used. It is fed av100 now. As clean a fuel as motomix, same type fuel, except of course the small amount of lead that acts as a lubricant. It was just too far gone I guess. Piston came in today but they shorted me a circlip. Look forward to getting it running again.
> 
> The cylinder cleaned up beautifully. So that was not sand in the mix like I guessed.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


I haven’t ran the av100 before. What’s the price of it?


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## Bedford T (Mar 26, 2018)

Matt Hogden said:


> Don't waste your money on Huztl/farmertec lads. It's rubbish
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


Devil is in the details. No huztl is in this saw except bar and chain

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


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## Bedford T (Mar 26, 2018)

Country bumpkin said:


> I haven’t ran the av100 before. What’s the price of it?


The airport closest to me gets 4.50 a gallon if you pump it. I figured with oil I had about 7-8$ in a gallon . I think they get 8$ a qt for motomix. Quite a savings and some good insurance.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


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## Country bumpkin (Mar 26, 2018)

Bedford T said:


> The airport closest to me gets 4.50 a gallon if you pump it. I figured with oil I had about 7-8$ in a gallon . I think they get 8$ a qt for motomix. Quite a savings and some good insurance.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Thanks


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## Bedford T (Mar 29, 2018)

the symbol on the pan i just got says its magnesium not aluminum making this all the more strange


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## auskip07 (Jun 2, 2020)

finally have this almost finished. The screws supplied were too long (thanks china) so i punctured the gas tank and the oil tank. Ive epoxied those holes up and have cut the screws shorter with bolt cutters. Now im just waiting on a rubber buffer to put the handle back on.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 2, 2020)

I haven't bought any of the China kits, I usually just get a trashed oem saw and fix it up. They're still plentiful in this area, especially the homeowner Stihl saws...


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## Bedford T (Jun 3, 2020)

auskip07 said:


> finally have this almost finished. The screws supplied were too long (thanks china) so i punctured the gas tank and the oil tank. Ive epoxied those holes up and have cut the screws shorter with bolt cutters. Now im just waiting on a rubber buffer to put the handle back on.


It's heart breaking to me to see this kind of post. Farmertec sux. They continue to put out kits with huge problems when they could simply do a better job. They told me when I asked them to sell the kits here they would improve. That was just not the truth. It looked promising for a while early on. That 025 kit was the worst thing I had ever bought. It still sits in a bucket in pieces and is no better today.









the1chainsawguy


Welcome, let's talk chainsaw type stuff. I like to build them. I bet you would too, and I would like to give you the opportunity to see and share in the experience and see if you might like it as well. I find it an interesting journey and a lot of fun at the end. An interesting aspect is the kits




thechainsawkitguy.com













the1chainsawguy


This channel is committed to sharing the greatest hobby of all time chainsaw maintenance with a liberal dose of other Stihl 2 cycle products covered. For the...




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## auskip07 (Jun 3, 2020)

Bedford T said:


> It's heart breaking to me to see this kind of post. Farmertec sux. They continue to put out kits with huge problems when they could simply do a better job. They told me when I asked them to sell the kits here they would improve. That was just not the truth. It looked promising for a while early on. That 025 kit was the worst thing I had ever bought. It still sits in a bucket in pieces and is no better today.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Bedford T thanks for the videos on youtube they have helped put this together. This kit is around 2 years old so that might have something to do with it and i was aware that was an issue with these when it was relased but i hoped i had gotten a later casting since they had been out for a year + when i ordered. Im pretty good at fixing issues that i come across so i think this will be a working saw in a few days. I rely on my OEM Saws for most of the work and just enjoy tinkering


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## dougand3 (Jun 3, 2020)

Bedford T said:


> They told me when I asked them to sell the kits here they would improve. That was just not the truth.


They are Chinese Communists - lying is no problem to reach the party's goals.


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## auskip07 (Jun 22, 2020)

Got it put together yesterday and flooded it on the initial startup and couldnt get but a sputter out of it. so i called it quits and waited till today. I closed both H, L needles because i think these chinese carbs arnt the standard 1 1/4, 1 1/2 turn out more like 1 max. It sputtered a few times and then i found the right setting on the carb to get it to stay running, adjusted to carb a little to get it to rev out like it should But the wiring muse be fubar because i cant get it to shut off even with both connectors hooked together. 

so my next challenge is to fix that. Happy i have it running after all the trouble i have had. The epoxy in the screw holes that poked into the gas tank look to hold for right now. Ill consider that a small victory.


Also solved my Husky 55 issue after replacing a few parts to find out i had a faulty spark plug. So, 2 saws back to working in 2 days.


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## auskip07 (Jun 22, 2020)

looks like my kit was missing the ground cable.


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## auskip07 (Jun 23, 2020)

It was a pain and i doubt it will last but ive had enough practice taking it apart it shouldnt take me 30 minutes from start to finish to fix anything

Idles good, starts easily 1-2 pulls on choke and then switch to run and it comes to life. Still need to verify if its oiling properly didnt see any spray when i was toying with it.


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## Vintage Engine Repairs (Jun 23, 2020)

You can get an ms 180 for peanuts from stihl with genuine parts. Strip it and rebuild it. Chinese clone parts are just not worth any “saving” you think you’re getting.


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## auskip07 (Jun 23, 2020)

Spoon Carving With Tom said:


> You can get an ms 180 for peanuts from stihl with genuine parts. Strip it and rebuild it. Chinese clone parts are just not worth any “saving” you think you’re getting.



have you built a kit saw?


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## Vintage Engine Repairs (Jun 23, 2020)

auskip07 said:


> have you built a kit saw?


I have used enough Chinese clone parts on my first every rebuild to know they are total junk and since then have seen countless frustrated people who have built kits, both here and on YouTube to know that kit saws are no better than the rubbish they sell individually. Two Chinese carbs were DOA, plastics didn’t fit, oil seals leaked and that’s just from memory and I built it a year ago. Since then I have used OEM or quality AM like meteor or quality AM bearings from Japan and Germany with no problems on the 4 other saws I built.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 23, 2020)

It might not mean much but the OEM Stihl oilers weren't all that good either, you usually don't get a spray off the end of the bar like you would on other saws. In this tug of war I wouldn't say Chinese parts are totally junk but I would say that they are hit and miss. I've had many good carburetors from China which are still in use today and not many, if any bad ones. By the way, I think the oem carburetors on some Stihls are made in China. I won't order anything right now from China because of the trouble they're having because of that virus but hope to order again some day when they get their factories and their delivery systems sorted out...


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## Bedford T (Jun 24, 2020)

a. palmer jr. said:


> It might not mean much but the OEM Stihl oilers weren't all that good either, you usually don't get a spray off the end of the bar like you would on other saws. In this tug of war I wouldn't say Chinese parts are totally junk but I would say that they are hit and miss. I've had many good carburetors from China which are still in use today and not many, if any bad ones. By the way, I think the oem carburetors on some Stihls are made in China. I won't order anything right now from China because of the trouble they're having because of that virus but hope to order again some day when they get their factories and their delivery systems sorted out...


I have had the opposite experience with carbs. Everyone was trouble. I had one brand I had hope for and it quit working soon.

Most everything we use is made there. So it must be the quality control the american companies use there or we would be in real trouble.

My last two Stihl carbs had defects with needles. Do even that control system has its hiccups.

Stihl oilers don't put out enough oil for me unless you pay extra









the1chainsawguy


Welcome, let's talk chainsaw type stuff. I like to build them. I bet you would too, and I would like to give you the opportunity to see and share in the experience and see if you might like it as well. I find it an interesting journey and a lot of fun at the end. An interesting aspect is the kits




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This channel is committed to sharing the greatest hobby of all time chainsaw maintenance with a liberal dose of other Stihl 2 cycle products covered. For the...




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## auskip07 (Jun 24, 2020)

Ive had decent luck with what i have gotten from china but to be honest i have more saws now (4) than i really need so they get very light use. 
All my yard tools are 10-30 years old and have either rebuilt carbs from me when i couldn't source a new carb or a chinese carb. statistically Ive had 2 issues out of 10 chinese carbs. 

My wife just inherited 5 acres in North Alabama so that will be a true test of these chinese saws.


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## Bedford T (Jun 24, 2020)

auskip07 said:


> Ive had decent luck with what i have gotten from china but to be honest i have more saws now (4) than i really need so they get very light use.
> All my yard tools are 10-30 years old and have either rebuilt carbs from me when i couldn't source a new carb or a chinese carb. statistically Ive had 2 issues out of 10 chinese carbs.
> 
> My wife just inherited 5 acres in North Alabama so that will be a true test of these chinese saws.


I never went into carbs much. If a carb don't work it's time for a new carb. These newer ones have things like pumps on them and well, 50-100$ is better for me personally just so I not aggravated. A 30 year old saw is ok in my book.

I bet my Chinese saw kits go 30. They are 60% Chinese.









the1chainsawguy


Welcome, let's talk chainsaw type stuff. I like to build them. I bet you would too, and I would like to give you the opportunity to see and share in the experience and see if you might like it as well. I find it an interesting journey and a lot of fun at the end. An interesting aspect is the kits




thechainsawkitguy.com













the1chainsawguy


This channel is committed to sharing the greatest hobby of all time chainsaw maintenance with a liberal dose of other Stihl 2 cycle products covered. For the...




youtube.com


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 24, 2020)

Bedford T said:


> I have had the opposite experience with carbs. Everyone was trouble. I had one brand I had hope for and it quit working soon.
> 
> Most everything we use is made there. So it must be the quality control the american companies use there or we would be in real trouble.
> 
> ...


 A few of the Chinese carbs I've put on Stihl saws didn't even require an adjustment, ran great right out of the box. I said Stihl because that's about all I put carbs on, mostly the smaller ones but I remember putting a Chinese Bing carb on my 038 and the saw ran much better than when the Tillotson that was on it. Haven't replaced many of the bigger Stihl carbs like 039 and up..


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