# 070 vs 090 vs something else



## Tim_10 (Dec 22, 2018)

Basically guys I'm looking for the "last saw" I'd need for milling. I currently have an 066 with big bore kit that does a great job but what would be the best upgrade I could make? Would you take an 070 or an 090 or something else?
Looking for your guys opinion who do lots of milling and where would my money be best spent. I got in contact with another AS member who has an 070 and 090 he'd be able to sell me. I'm leaning towards the 090 because basically you can't get bigger than that and I wouldn't see myself ever needing another saw for milling. Any suggestions are welcome, just trying to make the best decision. Thanks guys!


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## ammoaddict (Dec 22, 2018)

While I have not used either, I have heard that the 070,090 are very heavy and slow. Hopefully you will get better answers from people with experience.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## BlackCoffin (Dec 22, 2018)

Both are heavy and slow, you can’t refuel in the cut is probably the biggest set back. They’ll both do the job fine and those older says make up for torque where they lack chain speed. You can’t go off advertised power numbers along because some saws will flat out run and others won’t. I would shoot for a ms880 just for parts availability in the future. When you’re getting into big wood nothing is fast about the process so it’s a wash for the weight and speed argument.


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## Ted Jenkins (Dec 22, 2018)

My $.o2 is it depends on the chain. The 404 usually is run slower so it will not make as smooth a cut, but seems to cut a little straighter. 3/8 chain will cut smooth if you really pay attention to your set up. If I am making lumber then it usually goes to a big table saw and planer. If I am making a slab it ends up getting sanded so a smooth cut is not important. I made a few hundred feet of dog eared fencing which was not so smooth. After fifteen years of weather it still looks great. Thanks


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## Tim_10 (Dec 22, 2018)

I've also heard the same. Although on a granberg mill weight shouldn't be an issue. And speed could be a factor but the increased torque I feel would be more beneficial in big hardwood.


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## Tim_10 (Dec 22, 2018)

BlackCoffin said:


> Both are heavy and slow, you can’t refuel in the cut is probably the biggest set back. They’ll both do the job fine and those older says make up for torque where they lack chain speed. You can’t go off advertised power numbers along because some saws will flat out run and others won’t. I would shoot for a ms880 just for parts availability in the future. When you’re getting into big wood nothing is fast about the process so it’s a wash for the weight and speed argument.



How come you can't refuel in the cut? Looking at the saw it still looks like you'd be able to refuel in the cut but I have no experience with this saw. 
It seems like out of the 2 the 090 would be the better option. In regards to something else I'd be looking at the 088 or 880. My biggest concern is in regards to parts availability and I don't plan on stopping milling any time soon. I've been told that parts for the 090 are readily available though. Any thoughts on that? Also a running 090 with a new top end (from a good guy here on AS) for less than a used or new 880, sounds good on the pocket book too.


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## WolfMann (Dec 23, 2018)

Like some of these guys have mentioned what you're going to be cutting should really influence your decision, the farther over 36 inches you go the more big saws like the 3120, 880, and 090 are going to shine. 36 inches and under you might find that they're more closely matched by saws like the 394/395 or 660/661. These saws use less fuel than the bigger ones too.


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## WolfMann (Dec 23, 2018)

There's a Chinese company called Farmertec (Huztl) that makes aftermarket parts for the 070/090. This is a large portion of the parts available for these saws. They'll send you a box with all the parts you need to build your own too. A lot of people like these, (myself included), but you may want to look into it more yourself. Could be a more cost effective way to wind up with a larger milling saw. Food for thought.


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## Husky Man (Dec 23, 2018)

Tim_10 Said:

Looking for your guys opinion who do lots of milling and where would my money be best spent.


If you want the Most Saw for your Money, Then I would suggest getting a Husqvarna 3120XP , from Dave, "The Chainsaw Guy" in the AS "Trading Post".

Dave sells the 3120 through the TP for $1399 SHIPPED. That is a BRAND NEW saw, PHO, which is how this saw is sold.

I can attest to Dave being a Reputable seller, I bought my 3120 from him, and some other AS members have bought from Dave as well. 
$1399 Shipped is a hard price to beat on an Awesome Saw.

I would buy another saw through Dave without Hesitation.
My Thoughts, Your Money, Your Choice,

Doug


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## Tim_10 (Dec 23, 2018)

WolfMann said:


> Like some of these guys have mentioned what you're going to be cutting should really influence your decision, the farther over 36 inches you go the more big saws like the 3120, 880, and 090 are going to shine. 36 inches and under you might find that they're more closely matched by saws like the 394/395 or 660/661. These saws use less fuel than the bigger ones too.



So currently what I have to cut is Pine and Black Walnut. The pine gets up to about 44" and the black walnut can get up to 36"+ depending how far I want to go past the crotch. Current setup is with an 066 with BB kit and 36" bar. Really don't want to go bigger on the bar, would rather have separate saw with bigger dedicated for the bigger logs. Which is why I'm looking for a bigger saw. An opportunity came up to get an 070 or 090 from a good guy here on AS so that's why I throughout the question to the miller's on AS.



WolfMann said:


> There's a Chinese company called Farmertec (Huztl) that makes aftermarket parts for the 070/090. This is a large portion of the parts available for these saws. They'll send you a box with all the parts you need to build your own too. A lot of people like these, (myself included), but you may want to look into it more yourself. Could be a more cost effective way to wind up with a larger milling saw. Food for thought.



I have heard about Farmertec and done some research on them although I'd rather stay with as close to OEM as I could. Nothing against the company or others who like their stuff, just not a fan I guess.



Husky Man said:


> Tim_10 Said:
> 
> Looking for your guys opinion who do lots of milling and where would my money be best spent.
> 
> ...



I have seen Dave's posts regarding the 3120XP and it's crossed my mind multiple times, although the 090 that is available I could get the 090 (runner, in good shape), big bar, and a few chains for the same price as 3120XP PHO. Then the parts availability comes in to play. I feel like if I was milling big logs day in and day out then a brand new saw would most likely be the way to go but this is just a hobby for me and basically saves me money and time in the long run since I'm always making stuff for myself or others. 

I'm still unsure what to do but I'm going to get back with the AS member tonight so I'm not leaving him hanging. Thanks for all the input so far. I think I've pretty much ruled out the 070 so I'm leaning towards the 090 for the price I could get it for and how much I'd use it. Still open to see what others may have to say for options for an occasional use big saw.


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## ML12 (Jan 3, 2019)

I'll put my $.02 in. I've milled with a 090 as well as a few other saws (Pioneer p50, Homelite xl-924, McCulloch 795) My 090 gets used with a 36" bar and .404 stihl chain. The governor is still on the saw and set to a "mid position" (yes I know I should ditch the governor, but the saw came to me that way so I'm leaving it) and its pretty slow. The 090 is heavy, and not great with fuel consumption, but the torque is unbelievable, so if you want to get into running long bars for long cuts, its what you want.

That being said, the other saws I have ran (as mentioned above) pulled just as fast with 32" bars and 3/8 chain in similar sized wood, but I had to be more careful with how sharp the chains were and how much I could push the mill.

If you have an opportunity to get a 090 at a good price with some longer bars I would say you should do it. Otherwise the big bore 066 will be just fine, and have better parts availability (cheaper too) in the long run, as long as you aren't running bars in excess of 60" on a regular basis.


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## Trever (Jan 13, 2019)

Tim_10 said:


> How come you can't refuel in the cut? Looking at the saw it still looks like you'd be able to refuel in the cut but I have no experience with this saw.
> It seems like out of the 2 the 090 would be the better option. In regards to something else I'd be looking at the 088 or 880. My biggest concern is in regards to parts availability and I don't plan on stopping milling any time soon. I've been told that parts for the 090 are readily available though. Any thoughts on that? Also a running 090 with a new top end (from a good guy here on AS) for less than a used or new 880, sounds good on the pocket book too.


Run an auxiliary fuel tank, use a plastic tee between the fuel tank and carb.


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## Mtn Woodworks (Jan 13, 2019)

I’ve been stuck between a 660 big bore and an 070 with an 090 jug. 660 is cheaper, and my local lumberyard carries parts for them. Less torque but faster chain speeds. Less vibration, less weight. 
But then the 070 will probably be much better pulling a big bar through 36” oaks and crotch sections. Sofar I would rather have a 660 but feel like I’m supposed to get the 070 for the power. I have another month or so before I make up my mind so I’ll keep lurking and reading but will probably be stuck in the same spot by then


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## ML12 (Jan 14, 2019)

The fuel issue isn't something I've run into on the 090, yes it is brutal with respect to fuel mileage, but I can mill 3 cuts 8' long in 27" wide maple before re-fueling (there is still some fuel in the tank but not much), keep in mind the 090 has an enormous gas tank (1.2L). So unless you are milling something huge and long, you likely won't run out of fuel. As for bar oil, I can say that the saw has to be upright to refill it. But, depending on bar length, just set the oiler flow so that it runs out of oil just after running out of gas and refill it while refueling. 

Also you said that the saw you are looking at is a 070, with a 090 top end, does it have the 090 clutch too? The 090 clutch is a much larger unit than the 070 one and much better suited to milling applications. Its also quite an expensive upgrade I believe. What the 070/090 platform can offer is an incredibly robust chassis, good longevity, and basic uncomplicated function, just look at how they are used in S.E. Asia.

A 660 big bore is going to be fine in 3' oak I'd imagine, there are people on here who use smaller saws with longer bars, and they have just spent more time refining their set ups so that they work flawlessly.

I haven't run a 660, but I have several vintage saws in the 100cc range that will hang with the 090 until the bars get really long (4'+). If you never intend to mill anything over 4' wide, stick with the 660. If you want more power, send the 660 to be ported. If you still don't have enough power then go to a 090. I think that getting the chain sharpened correctly (see the milling101 thread) and milling technique are more important than raw power.


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## Mtn Woodworks (Jan 14, 2019)

The 070 I would have end up with would still have the 070 clutch I saw someone add the 090 jig and said it made a lot more power but maybe that would cause clutch issues. Either route I would end with one of the huztl clones and put a few oem parts on like seals and bearings. They are just so cheap. I know a lot of guys really harp on the clone saw but I’m in Southern California and I rarely see 660 and 070 size stills for sale unless they are asking $1000 and that’s just out of the question. At that rate I would rather save up 300 more and get the 3120 from the guy here that sells em.
Now that you mention the clutch difference I wonder how the 660’s clutch compares to the 070 clutch?
One things that’s good about where I live is that live edge slabs are very popular and sell for a premium so if I can just get ahold of one nice log and makes some good cuts I’ll be able to buy 5 more saws and a whole mess of logs once they are dry 
The only saw I have right now is an old metal body 009 that is missing it’s forward grip(I just use it as a one handed for trimming trees in my yard)
My dad has a 391 and it cuts great but just bucking logs with it I can tell I would need way more for ripping.
Thanks for the info and letting me pick your brain I really appreciate it! I already read all through the sticky and will for sure be referencing it when I sharpen the first chain on the new saw! Also can’t belive I never thought of having the log on a slope to let gravity do the work. Some great info in there!


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## Tim_10 (Jan 14, 2019)

Trever said:


> Run an auxiliary fuel tank, use a plastic tee between the fuel tank and carb.



I'm have to look into that. I'll be getting my 090 in Feb so once I get it set up on the mill I'll see how long the gas goes and if that set up will be necessary. Thanks for the recommendation.


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## Tim_10 (Jan 15, 2019)

Mtn Woodworks said:


> I’ve been stuck between a 660 big bore and an 070 with an 090 jug. 660 is cheaper, and my local lumberyard carries parts for them. Less torque but faster chain speeds. Less vibration, less weight.
> But then the 070 will probably be much better pulling a big bar through 36” oaks and crotch sections. Sofar I would rather have a 660 but feel like I’m supposed to get the 070 for the power. I have another month or so before I make up my mind so I’ll keep lurking and reading but will probably be stuck in the same spot by then



So from all the things I've read and researched the big bore is not the way to go. In saying that, my 066 big bore has done well thus far and that was what was on it when I bought it so I'll keep it that until I see a reason to change it. I've read though that you'll get as much power from an OEM P&C with better longevity. If you're new to CSMing like I was, read as much as you can on here and get in touch with some members and their thoughts on what you'd be milling. Definitely learn to sharpen your own chains, BobL, has a good write up on this. Another good resource that I just came upon was the book by Will Malloff, Chainsaw Lumbermaking, in which he used the 090. I'm not getting my 090 until next month so I'm not able to give you a direct comparison. From the members I've talked to and the reading I've done, from a financial standpoint, it doesn't make sense to buy an 070 and convert it to an 090. Changing out the top end and the clutch, you could get an 090 for less. So might as well just get the 090 to start off. That's talking from an OEM perspective though. I'm getting my 090 from a member here on AS, he's an 1106 series guy, send me a message and I can get you in contact with him if you want.


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## Tim_10 (Jan 15, 2019)

ML12 said:


> The fuel issue isn't something I've run into on the 090, yes it is brutal with respect to fuel mileage, but I can mill 3 cuts 8' long in 27" wide maple before re-fueling (there is still some fuel in the tank but not much), keep in mind the 090 has an enormous gas tank (1.2L). So unless you are milling something huge and long, you likely won't run out of fuel. As for bar oil, I can say that the saw has to be upright to refill it. But, depending on bar length, just set the oiler flow so that it runs out of oil just after running out of gas and refill it while refueling.
> 
> Also you said that the saw you are looking at is a 070, with a 090 top end, does it have the 090 clutch too? The 090 clutch is a much larger unit than the 070 one and much better suited to milling applications. Its also quite an expensive upgrade I believe. What the 070/090 platform can offer is an incredibly robust chassis, good longevity, and basic uncomplicated function, just look at how they are used in S.E. Asia.
> 
> ...



Nice to know about the fuel. Longest I've milled is 20' but it was only 20" pine so not a hardwood and not that wide. And the was for a specific size lumber I needed so I most likely won't mill anything that long again. Thanks for the tip regarding the oiler. I also have an aux oiler on my setup so oiling shouldn't be an issue.

Agree completely with the rest of your points. I maxed out my 36" mill so like 30ish" on the crotch of black walnut and my 066 big bore handled it just fine. 

My rationale for getting the 090 is for instances that I do need it I'll have it and I want it to be my milling machine and figured I'd just bite the bullet now and for my case not mess with getting an OEM P&C and getting it ported for my 066.


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## Tim_10 (Jan 15, 2019)

Mtn Woodworks said:


> The 070 I would have end up with would still have the 070 clutch I saw someone add the 090 jig and said it made a lot more power but maybe that would cause clutch issues. Either route I would end with one of the huztl clones and put a few oem parts on like seals and bearings. They are just so cheap. I know a lot of guys really harp on the clone saw but I’m in Southern California and I rarely see 660 and 070 size stills for sale unless they are asking $1000 and that’s just out of the question. At that rate I would rather save up 300 more and get the 3120 from the guy here that sells em.



Keep your eyes open on here 066/660's come up here and there for good prices. And if you're willing to put in a little work and have the know how you can sometimes get a really good deal. And remember for milling you don't need the best looking saw, it just needs to run good.


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## ML12 (Jan 15, 2019)

Milled last weekend with the 090. Ran like a champ. Oregon Ripping chain filed at 0 degrees.




We're cutting a 6" thick slab here to make mantles with.

We need some longer mill rails, and a longer bar to open up further possibilities, but that's expensive and its not really a pressing issue at this point in time so it'll have to wait.


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## Tim_10 (Jan 15, 2019)

What type of wood are you cutting there? Have you only used Oregon ripping chain filed at 0 or have you used other brands, grinds, filing at different angles, how low do you set your rakers? What size chain are you using, .404?


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## ML12 (Jan 15, 2019)

Tim_10 said:


> What type of wood are you cutting there? Have you only used Oregon ripping chain filed at 0 or have you used other brands, grinds, filing at different angles, how low do you set your rakers? What size chain are you using, .404?



That wood is big leaf maple, its considered a hardwood here but it isn't that hard compared to what others in Australia and the eastern USA are milling. We have only used the Oregon ripping chain, and some standard stihl chisel, round filed at 30 degrees for when surface finish is less important. We only use .404 full comp in .063" gauge on the 090, no 3/8 or skip. The speed with ripping chain is only slightly slower than non-ripping chain, at least for the stuff we have cut.

The rakers are set in a very unscientific way (sorry everyone, don't really have the time to use a digital angle gauge on each one, I wish I could) we found that the "out-of-the-box" 0.025" raker height wasn't low enough, so we kept dropping it until we reached about 0.045" which seems like a lot, but the saw self feeds nicely and doesn't really bog with a 36" bar. We primarily cut softwoods though cedar, pine, fir etc, with the odd hardwood, maple, or birch. Our general rule of thumb is to use the chain until the cut slows then touch up the teeth, only filing the rakers when the speed doesn't come back after a quick touch up.

I've used a pioneer p50 (82cc) with 3/8 full skip, chisel chain to mill cedar (very soft) and it did quite well, but the surface finish is much more wavy.


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## Tim_10 (Jan 16, 2019)

Do you know how big leaf Maple would compare to Black walnut?
I'm planning on trying a few variations of .404 chain when I get my 090: ripping chain vs semi chisel 20-30 degree vs Malloff style. Along with lowering the rakers, I do use the DAF (once you find a rhythm it does go pretty fast)
With my 066 I've used 3/8 semi chisel, full skip at 30 degree and rakers at about 8 degree in soft pine and hard black walnut (rakers at about 6.5 degree) with good success. Finish was better in the pine than the Walnut but either way I feel once dried they need a final flattening with my router sled so finish doesn't seem to be all that important.
I myself am going to have to buy some longer rails for my mill. I've read 80/20 works well, have you thought about that? And it didn't seem to be all that expensive compared to Granberg.


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## ML12 (Jan 17, 2019)

Tim_10 said:


> Do you know how big leaf Maple would compare to Black walnut?
> I'm planning on trying a few variations of .404 chain when I get my 090: ripping chain vs semi chisel 20-30 degree vs Malloff style. Along with lowering the rakers, I do use the DAF (once you find a rhythm it does go pretty fast)
> With my 066 I've used 3/8 semi chisel, full skip at 30 degree and rakers at about 8 degree in soft pine and hard black walnut (rakers at about 6.5 degree) with good success. Finish was better in the pine than the Walnut but either way I feel once dried they need a final flattening with my router sled so finish doesn't seem to be all that important.
> I myself am going to have to buy some longer rails for my mill. I've read 80/20 works well, have you thought about that? And it didn't seem to be all that expensive compared to Granberg.



I don't know how it would compare to black walnut, but I would imagine that it is softer. I'd recommend .063" gauge chain for the 090. Id also recommend getting your hands on some full chisel instead of semi, I've found that it cuts better (in general, if the wood is clean).

Milling always seems like a last minute decision around here so I tend to not have as much prep time as I would like. I do agree with surface finishing not being too big of an issue though, I too use a router sled to flatten out slabs, but previously I used a large hand plane and a belt sander, so it was more of a big deal.

I have also heard about 80/20 working well and being cheaper. Its likely the route I will take, one day, when I finally get around to it.


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## rarefish383 (Feb 3, 2019)

I’ve found that Black Walnut mills easier than Red Oak.


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## hsimauqs (Feb 9, 2019)

Hi - I'm a beginner miller with an 070 currently running .404 chain. Due to a series of mishandled orders I've ended up with a 42" bar and chain pitched at 3/8" - I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if I can run a 3/8" sprocket on my 070, or if I'm stuck rethinking my whole setup for milling larger wood. Sorry to pile into this thread but hopefully some expert eyes are on it.

Thanks in advance
Matt


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## Ted Jenkins (Feb 9, 2019)

hsimauqs said:


> Hi - I'm a beginner miller with an 070 currently running .404 chain. Due to a series of mishandled orders I've ended up with a 42" bar and chain pitched at 3/8" - I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if I can run a 3/8" sprocket on my 070, or if I'm stuck rethinking my whole setup for milling larger wood. Sorry to pile into this thread but hopefully some expert eyes are on it.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> Matt



For you there is not a wrong answer. Going with the 3/8 will work going with the 404 will work. My 02 is that the 3/8 will make a little finer cut than the 404. The 404 last longer staying sharp. The 070 will be easier to run the 404 in that it was designed to run. I would dump the 3/8 stuff and get a 404 setup way less headache. The 3/8 will not oil quite as well. Thanks


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## hsimauqs (Feb 9, 2019)

Thanks Ted - do you know what is involved with changing over to running the 3/8 chain on the 070 currently setup for 404 ? I'm gathering I need a new sprocket at the very least, correct ?


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## Tim_10 (Feb 10, 2019)

hsimauqs said:


> Thanks Ted - do you know what is involved with changing over to running the 3/8 chain on the 070 currently setup for 404 ? I'm gathering I need a new sprocket at the very least, correct ?



Sprocket, bar, and chain all have to match.


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## hsimauqs (Feb 10, 2019)

Ok I guess a more specific question is necessary - does anyone know the part number for a 3/8 sprocket for another STIHL saw that will fit on an 070 or 090? I went in and spoke with my dealer and looking in the computer he said the 070 and 090 both only have 404 or 1/2" sprockets available, can I grab a 3/8 drive sprocket from a ms660? Or am I looking at something much more complex. Will take some measurements this week but my powerhead is currently stashed in the woods and a bit of a walk to recover.


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## Tim_10 (Feb 10, 2019)

hsimauqs said:


> Ok I guess a more specific question is necessary - does anyone know the part number for a 3/8 sprocket for another STIHL saw that will fit on an 070 or 090? I went in and spoke with my dealer and looking in the computer he said the 070 and 090 both only have 404 or 1/2" sprockets available, can I grab a 3/8 drive sprocket from a ms660? Or am I looking at something much more complex. Will take some measurements this week but my powerhead is currently stashed in the woods and a bit of a walk to recover.



I would say go to the "beg for manuals" thread and ask for the IPL and service manual for the 070. All I have is the IPL for the 090 and it only mentions the .404 and 1/2" sprocket. Looking around though it looks like the ID of the sprocket has to be 22mm. Pop yours off and double check that. If that's in fact true then I just measured my rim sprocket for my 066 and it's 22mm so one of those may work.


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## hsimauqs (Feb 10, 2019)

Tim you're a beauty, I appreciate it.


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## Tim_10 (Feb 10, 2019)

I'll reiterate what Ted mentioned though, I'd run the .404". Better oiling capability and also have an aux oiler on your mill also with a 42" bar.


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## Tim_10 (Feb 10, 2019)

hsimauqs said:


> Tim you're a beauty, I appreciate it.



You're welcome. Just trying to help you out. Many people have helped me out so trying to do the same with the minimal knowledge I have.


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## ML12 (Feb 12, 2019)

hsimauqs said:


> Ok I guess a more specific question is necessary - does anyone know the part number for a 3/8 sprocket for another STIHL saw that will fit on an 070 or 090? I went in and spoke with my dealer and looking in the computer he said the 070 and 090 both only have 404 or 1/2" sprockets available, can I grab a 3/8 drive sprocket from a ms660? Or am I looking at something much more complex. Will take some measurements this week but my powerhead is currently stashed in the woods and a bit of a walk to recover.



You could also just change out the sprocket tip on the bar to a .404 one... it would be a cheaper option. I'm sure that Oregon made a floating rim drive clutch drum for these but I don't know the part number. What I do know that if you can find one it will be very, very, expensive and it'll have to be purchased on ebay. I have a 090 and have looked into upgrading, and it is a pricey (~$200) endeavor. No other saw that stihl makes has a clutch that fits.

As far as changing the sprocket tip, just make sure the gauge of the bar is 0.058 or 0.063, those are the only gauges that .404 comes in. sprocket tips are around $40CAD installed. I'd second running an auxiliary oiler.

We just upgraded the mill. Its now got a 55" cut width with a 60" Cannon bar.


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## Ted Jenkins (Feb 12, 2019)

Tim_10 said:


> I'll reiterate what Ted mentioned though, I'd run the .404". Better oiling capability and also have an aux oiler on your mill also with a 42" bar.



I tried this particular conversion last summer. Actually I tried this two times in the past couple of years. The first time I tried it worked perfectly except I scrounged old parts I had to make it work which were in sorry condition. When I wanted to upgrade to non worn out stuff bang. The parts I wanted were either back ordered or NA. The project failed. If you can get a 22mm clutch drum then it is possible. The 3/8'' rim is made in a 22mm size. So you get a 22mm clutch stick the 3/8'' rim on it. I am not aware of any large mount bar that have a 3/8'' nose. So you have to get a Oregon bar or Stihl bar to what ever size you want then change the nose to 3/8''. Put it together and go mill. For me it became too much of an ordeal to make it practical. I almost fired up my lathe to make it happen. Now I am glad I did not. The 404 set up is just better all the way. Thanks


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## J-Rod (Feb 20, 2019)

I see you like your Stihls! Nothing wrong with that but another option for the big CC saws is the Echo CS1201. I know some guys pull them down to parts and try to bring them in, but of course the parts availability and stress to get parts would be an issue, so I think your best bet is to find the largest saw you can get service for...most likely Husky 3120XP or Stihl MS880. Torque is what you want for milling, especially when utilizing a long bar.


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## Ted Jenkins (Feb 20, 2019)

J-Rod said:


> I see you like your Stihls! Nothing wrong with that but another option for the big CC saws is the Echo CS1201. I know some guys pull them down to parts and try to bring them in, but of course the parts availability and stress to get parts would be an issue, so I think your best bet is to find the largest saw you can get service for...most likely Husky 3120XP or Stihl MS880. Torque is what you want for milling, especially when utilizing a long bar.



As several AS folks have pointed out the big bore saws work very well. The MS 066 is a great saw, but for milling might not be the best miller. Also Stihl is not the only brand that can perform well in a milling situation. The 404 set up does well in the oiling department coupled with a full torque motor. Thanks


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