# 90cc vs 120cc



## mdavlee (Dec 31, 2013)

For you guys out there running a 36" mill with 90cc saws or 120cc saws I'm looking for input before I jump to a 120cc saw. I've got a 9010 and 660 right now and they seem to do ok up to 23" wide is the widest I've got to mill so far. Is there enough of a speed difference to go to a 120cc saw like an 084 over these or is it not really any faster. I tried to search but it sucks and I'm not that patient to dig through a lot of it.


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## Boon (Jan 1, 2014)

Like you i am a beginnar and started off with a 660 on a 36 inch cut and it was killing my saw. I upgraded to an 880 and have not looked back. It does not really cut faster but the torque is greater. A skip tooth at 15 degrees and a raker angle to suit the wood you ate cutting will help.....BobL has written some informative posts that will help.

Just sharing what the kind people on the site have taught me so far and my experience.

All the best


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## mad murdock (Jan 1, 2014)

There is no replacement for displacement. I do most of my milling with my 372, set up with picco chain,'it does very nice. I have used my 075 on some bigger logs, and it definitely goes fast with more cc's even outfitted with 3/8" chain. I would look for a good used big cc saw, you will probably use the smaller ones for the lion share of the milling, and just out the big dog when needed. Just a lot easier to push 15-18 lbs, rather than 20-25.


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## BobL (Jan 1, 2014)

mdavlee said:


> . . . Is there enough of a speed difference to go to a 120cc saw like an 084 over these or is it not really any faster. . . . .


Going from a 90 to 120 cc one might expect 33% increase in cutting speed but as CSM in small logs is chain speed limited, to see any sort of speed difference at 23" the rakers have to be dropped on a 120 cc saw to be able to take advantage of the extra torque. As alternative is to go up in sprocket tooth count but even going from 7 to 8 teeth does not gain much cutting speed.
The problem with dropping rakers too far for use in small wood is that the chain becomes marginal or even useless for use in wider cuts.
Where the difference is noticeable at >35" where the 90 cc saws start to struggle.


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## mdavlee (Jan 1, 2014)

I figured that was mostly the case. The mill and 9010 weigh 38 lbs when its full if fuel. Its no lightweight any way. I'm going to keep looking for a bigger saw. I'm not going to buy a new one for sure.


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## huskyhank (Jan 1, 2014)

Get the big saw for sure. Its easier to run and faster.


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## mdavlee (Jan 1, 2014)

huskyhank said:


> Get the big saw for sure. Its easier to run and faster.



I just hope to find a good one without breaking the bank.


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## john taliaferro (Jan 1, 2014)

I got lucky on here and found some one {ms 460 John } that had a 880 for sale , he wanted 600 $ :- ] . Saw looked rough but was just cosmetic . Inside it was nice and runs great .


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## mdavlee (Jan 1, 2014)

john taliaferro said:


> I got lucky on here and found some one {ms 460 John } that had a 880 for sale , he wanted 600 $ :- ] . Saw looked rough but was just cosmetic . Inside it was nice and runs great .



I'm hoping something like that will pop up for me soon. If not I'll just use what I've got until then.


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## srcarr52 (Jan 1, 2014)

I normally run a ported 394/5 on a 36" mill with 3/8 full comp at 5 deg with an 8 pin driver. I've run up to a 44" bar with .404 on the same saw in a full cut of oak, there I needed a light hand.


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## sachsmo (Jan 1, 2014)

Only milled with 6 cube saws (152/153, 1100/2100)

I really don't think you can go too big!

I know milling a 28" White Oak with them ones I have is painfully slow.

Your mileage may vary though?

But I'm a type of guy that has much more time than money.


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## mdavlee (Jan 1, 2014)

I know it wouldn't be fast with a 90cc chainsaw milling 30" wide at a time. I m just trying to justify a 120 cc saw. I don't know if a 2100 would be a big step up from what I have now.


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## sachsmo (Jan 1, 2014)

Always wanted to see what a 166 would do?

48mm o' stroke can NOT be a bad thing eh?


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## mdavlee (Jan 1, 2014)

Yeah I know.


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## huskyhank (Jan 1, 2014)

mdavlee said:


> I know it wouldn't be fast with a 90cc chainsaw milling 30" wide at a time. I m just trying to justify a 120 cc saw. I don't know if a 2100 would be a big step up from what I have now.



I've never run a 390, but I think my 2100 and 3120 compare pretty much in line with their displacements. From the bore and stroke I bet the 2100 has more torque per cc than the 390. A good running 2100 is stout. But it vibrates a lot compared to newer saws.


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## hamish (Jan 1, 2014)

mdavlee said:


> I m just trying to justify a 120 cc saw.



What is there to justify? You gotta have one!


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## mdavlee (Jan 1, 2014)

huskyhank said:


> I've never run a 390, but I think my 2100 and 3120 compare pretty much in line with their displacements. From the bore and stroke I bet the 2100 has more torque per cc than the 390. A good running 2100 is stout. But it vibrates a lot compared to newer saws.



I wasn't thinking of using a 390. I have a stihl 660 and dolmar 9010 to use right now with a 288 being put back together soon. All of them have more torque than a 390. 



hamish said:


> What is there to justify Mitch? You gotta have one!



Well I had one and sold it when I wasn't interested in milling at the time. It was too heavy to lug around for firewood stuff. A 90cc saw was almost as fast at 6lbs less.


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## srcarr52 (Jan 1, 2014)

mdavlee said:


> I know it wouldn't be fast with a 90cc chainsaw milling 30" wide at a time. I m just trying to justify a 120 cc saw. I don't know if a 2100 would be a big step up from what I have now.



I think you'd be a little disappointed with a stock 2100 but their gas and oil fill is in a nice location for use on a mill.


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## samdweezel05 (Jan 1, 2014)

mdavlee said:


> I know it wouldn't be fast with a 90cc chainsaw milling 30" wide at a time. I m just trying to justify a 120 cc saw. I don't know if a 2100 would be a big step up from what I have now.



Your trying to justify buying another saw? That's just silly and pointless. My 075 with .404 was faster in 32" elm than my 660 with 3/8. Can't wait to see how the ported 088 does.


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## gemniii (Jan 1, 2014)

The only disadvantages are cost, weight and possibly repair parts if you get a real old 120cc saw.

Before I got my 088 (with 36" bar, chains, an Alaskan Mark III, and boxes) for $450 I saw little use for one. My big trees are on the order of 30" DBH.

It's nice to have, but I couldn't justify buying one at even near full price.

It makes a REAL nice sound when I idle it with my 2 660's.


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## samdweezel05 (Jan 1, 2014)

gemniii said:


> The only disadvantages are cost, weight and possibly repair parts if you get a real old 120cc saw.
> 
> Before I got my 088 (with 36" bar, chains, an Alaskan Mark III, and boxes) for $450 I saw little use for one. My big trees are on the order of 30" DBH.
> 
> ...



It's like a top fuel dragster sound.


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## nk14zp (Jan 1, 2014)

I too want a 120cc saw to mill with. And I have not milled with my 95cc yet.


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## samdweezel05 (Jan 1, 2014)

nk14zp said:


> I too want a 120cc saw to mill with. And I have not milled with my 95cc yet.



See, no silly justification required. Want a bigger saw just because.


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## mdavlee (Jan 1, 2014)

The big bore saws sound different from the 90cc ones.


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## Timberwerks (Jan 1, 2014)

I use the 880 for milling on 56" mill. Most likely will pick up another in Spring for a 36" mill.

Here is mine, first run at home: 

And on mill:


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## sachsmo (Jan 4, 2014)

Awesome,

guess since the re-vamp we can post videos now eh?


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## ptjeep (Jan 4, 2014)

Hey Mike!!!!!
I've been using a stock 394 on my mill with a 36" b&c and as you probably know, it does OK when milling 30" wide slabs. I haven't done much with it but plan to in the next year or so and have even thought about building a carriage mill for it. Is your 9010 stock? I've often wondered how a ported 90cc saw would hold up to milling and how it would compare to a 120cc saw? I love milling logs so give me a shout when sometime and maybe we can hook up.


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## mdavlee (Jan 4, 2014)

No none of my saws are stock except the 357. The 9010 is a little slow in the wider slabs I cut. I don't know if it's faster than a ported 90cc saw. I guess we could get together with both saws and each make a cut and see which is faster. I'm sure a 120cc will be faster with being able to take a bigger bite with lower rakers.


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## sachsmo (Jan 4, 2014)

samdweezel05 said:


> It's like a top fuel dragster sound.




Ever see the video of Lees 8 166s idling at the same time?

When I fetch meself two more 152/153s I am going to make my first vid!

Always wanted a 166 and I might be a little biased, but I think the 152/153 saws sound even more 'cammed' up?


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## jczv (Jan 15, 2014)

This is probably a dumb and maybe incorrect statement but it seems to make more sense if you already have a 90cc saw and your going to get a 120cc saw only for very wide logs to just get another 90cc saw and go to a double ended bar. Since anything you cut would need a longer bar to begin with you could get a double ended bar. There's the additional benefit that now have a built in backup saw for milling. And you have two saws that have more uses outside of milling. There's not a lot of posts of people using two powerheads and double ended bars (at least that I've seen) and I don't have any practical so experience I don't know how big a hassle they are to setup and use so maybe I'm missing something.

For me it may be a more theoretical then real question as I already have a 3120 and just replaced my blown up 394. I just started thinking about this as my 66" bar can be used by two powerheads and if I can get my blown up 394 working again I could try it. Started to think that two 394's may be a more practical solution (although using a 3120 has the side benefit that you never complain about the weight of any other saw).


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## mdavlee (Jan 15, 2014)

Most of my milling will be solo so I won't have someone to run the other saw. It will be simpler to just get a bigger one. I'm going to try out the 394 on it here in a day or so. A 3120 would be easier since I wouldn't have to buy any more bars but I don't like how they handle compared to the 088/880. The side tensioner is a plus on the stihl also.


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## BobL (Jan 15, 2014)

I have only had one saw I probably wouldn't buy an identical saw to use them in a double ended setup as I would not like to have to disconnect and reconnect a saw from a mill to do a bit of trimming or bucking so I would then need a 3rd saw to do that. When I go milling I like to have one saw permanently in the mill and one not in the mill so that they can be quickly accessed. 



mdavlee said:


> Most of my milling will be solo so I won't have someone to run the other saw.


If a dual remote throttle is added, another person is not needed to run the other saw BUT unless you are pretty strong the extra person is needed to help move around and lift the mill/saws up onto the log.

Dual headed CS mills make sense on "carriage mills" - mills with tracks that logs are loaded onto and a carriage containing the saw rums over the top of the log.



> It will be simpler to just get a bigger one. I'm going to try out the 394 on it here in a day or so. A 3120 would be easier since I wouldn't have to buy any more bars but I don't like how they handle compared to the 088/880. The side tensioner is a plus on the stihl also.


 I'm not sure what you mean by handle? I understand that folks can live with all sorts of "features" but the inboard drive sprocket, the fixed H jet and the side tensioners were the main reasons I did not pursue a 3120. Otherwise it's a great saw.


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## jczv (Jan 15, 2014)

mdavlee said:


> Most of my milling will be solo so I won't have someone to run the other saw. It will be simpler to just get a bigger one. I'm going to try out the 394 on it here in a day or so. A 3120 would be easier since I wouldn't have to buy any more bars but I don't like how they handle compared to the 088/880. The side tensioner is a plus on the stihl also.



I was assuming a remote throttle but still don't have practical experience at how unwieldy is the double powerhead configuration is to use alone. A lot of people seem to prefer milling with the 088/880 but since all my bars / chains are husqvarna that's all I'll probably ever know anything about. I only picked up the 3120 because it was cheap used (like a lot of husqvarna saws and one of my main saw purchase crtieria's) and worked with what I had. I have no complaints but maybe ignorance is bliss. It certainly chugs through the bigger crap with much less effort then the 394.


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## PhilB (Jan 15, 2014)

For the first cut of the log I set the mill on the ladder (already attached to the log) and then mount the two power heads. I have two saw horses that lets me move the mill one end at a time while I setup the ladder brackets for the next cut. This makes the weight manageable. Although I have done this, most of the time there's a helper available to manage the mill. I need a helper to move the slabs when cut anyway.




See my signature for a link to my mill post.

Phil


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## BobL (Jan 15, 2014)

PhilB said:


> For the first cut of the log I set the mill on the ladder (already attached to the log) and then mount the two power heads. I have two saw horses that lets me move the mill one end at a time while I setup the ladder brackets for the next cut. This makes the weight manageable. Although I have done this, most of the time there's a helper available to manage the mill. I need a helper to move the slabs when cut anyway.



That's a neat way of doing it even for regular rails. My 20ft long Unistrut log rails weigh a fair bit and lifting them on and off the log is a bit of a heave-ho so I think I will set up some saw horses like yours.
Good point also about ending help with slabs.


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## porsche965 (Jan 15, 2014)

I haven't milled but knowing Mike from the threads over the years if you don't buy big you will never be satisfied Mike! LOL.


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## mdavlee (Jan 15, 2014)

BobL said:


> I have only had one saw I probably wouldn't buy an identical saw to use them in a double ended setup as I would not like to have to disconnect and reconnect a saw from a mill to do a bit of trimming or bucking so I would then need a 3rd saw to do that. When I go milling I like to have one saw permanently in the mill and one not in the mill so that they can be quickly accessed.
> 
> 
> If a dual remote throttle is added, another person is not needed to run the other saw BUT unless you are pretty strong the extra person is needed to help move around and lift the mill/saws up onto the log.
> ...



The outboard clutch on the 3120 doesn't bother me any. The oiler on it's great. I was actually planning on going from a 70cc saw to the 120cc as the next size up if I get one. The 3120 sucked lugging around a wood pile and in the woods. The 084/088 seemed much better balanced with a 42-48" bar. There's some logs on the ground now if they're not hollow I don't think I can get them bucked up with a 70cc and a 32" bar.


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## showrguy (Jan 16, 2014)

hey mike,
did you find a big saw yet ??


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## Trx250r180 (Jan 16, 2014)

How long of bar do you plan on running with the bigger powerhead ?


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## Big_Wood (Jan 17, 2014)

i have to agree with the way a 3120 handles. i'm gonna be honest with you guys. i hate those saws. if they weren't so great on the mill i would sell them in a heart beat. the handling does not matter one bit on the mill which is why i own them and that is all i ever use them for. even if i need to fall big tree's i just grab a 395 but prefer the 385 for most falling. i have milled with a 084, 088, 880, and an 090. i hate those too. the 090 is an awkward POS even with the way to expensive 10 pin rim. i have no idea why people like them. the only benefit IMO is the side chain adjuster of the 084/088/880 on the stihl. i like the 3120's more (once muff modded and carb modded by terry). i did own a 084 a few years ago that i milled with for 2 years never letting it cool between cuts and that thing was a champ. i sold it for more then i paid for it. still prefer the 3120 over it though. the 880 seemed extremely turdly but i only used it in a 60" mill. may have been better in a 36". one thing i will say mike is that a 120cc saw pays for itself in a mill.


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## mdavlee (Jan 17, 2014)

Trx250r180 said:


> How long of bar do you plan on running with the bigger powerhead ?



50" is what I'm thinking. I haven't found one yet that I can afford at this time. I hop to get one more saw finished up and sold an I'll be ready to pick.


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## mdavlee (Jan 17, 2014)

I owned a 3120 and have run a few 088/880s at gtgs. I wish I had more time on one but from what I remember using an 084 bucking some wood was a lot better than the 3120.


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## Timberframed (Jan 17, 2014)

Don't mean to throw a wrench in here. I mill up to 55" hardwood in an ICS 633 GC (Oly Mac 101 cc's) on a Panthermill with a 7 pin. Took 33 minutes to cut 38"-42" x 30' long best time in Red Oak. Can't seem to get any better than 6" a minute most of the time. When needed it switches back in minutes to cut concrete/stone openings which is profitable. Around here anyway.


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## Big_Wood (Jan 17, 2014)

rogue60 said:


> I dont CSM but have worked in sawmills and the timber industry my hole life and have used the 3120 and 880/088 one or two times over the years and can say a 88 will make me sweat a little here and there...But dam! running a 3120 make's me wish I got an education! haha....Now That is only IMHO some guys love the 3120 ...stock for stock the 088/880 IMO is a better saw hands down with its 121.6cc next to 118.8cc.... Care less if a ported whatever saw makes more power Im talking stock saw's....The husky guys seem to be all "no holds bar" down on Stihl on this Site so about time some truths where told and one could be the 3120 on its own is a good saw yes true, but next to a 880 is a big pig of a thing!.....



i may make an ass of myself here but i'm gonna assume your talking about a 9,600 rev limited 3120. i swear a 3120 with that green coil is the biggest piece of **** on this planet. lets start by not comparing them while bucking, IMO a guy who does anything with these big saws other then milling is a mad man. there are many other options available that can handle whatever is left on this planet. i laugh when i see a guy buy a 120cc saw then put a 20-25" bar on it . anyways i'm speaking from my experience about the application mike is going to use this saw. the 088/880 doesn't have any advantage except for the side chain adjust. they are about on par when it comes to power but the 3120 will oil something fierce gushing oil out around the bar rails even while milling. i used to have an auxilery oiler from when i was running the 395 on the mill for a bit but sold it to a buddy cause it was way to much oil with the 3120's. i wouldn't hesitate to use a 60" bar without a auxilery oiler running a 3120 judging by what it does for me on a 36". i am always looking for new ways to make milling easier and while i do miss the side chain adjust of the 084, i don't miss having to press that manual oiler when things dried up. i have used all of these saws and you can see what i have chosen. if i had to go buy a new saw right now and had no options to mod it i would pick an 880 just cause the 3120 with the green coil is almost unusable. once that is swapped out, look out stihls. the big pig thing is also incorrect. when you put them side by side the 3120 is wider but the 880 is longer. the 3120 don't feel heavy to me but i guess i'm used to it. if i was an actual mad man and fell/bucked with these big saws i'd have a hard time choosing what one. i know what i want in the mill though. funny thing is that nobody can argue with me cause i hate all these big saws. i have built my opinion with a mind of equal hate towards each of them


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## BobL (Jan 17, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> . . . the 088/880 doesn't have any advantage except for the side chain adjust.


I count the outboard sprocket on the 880 as a distinct advantage over the 3120. Being able to swap between 8 and 7 pin sprockets is a bit easier than needing to keep two different sets of chains with different raker depths.



> they are about on par when it comes to power but the 3120 will oil something fierce gushing oil out around the bar rails even while milling.


I've milled with both saws in Ozzy hardwood and found the extra oil output by the 3120 was (as with most saws) mostly wasted by coming off at the drive and bar nose sprockets and I had to fit an Aux oiler if I didn't want to damage the bar. I've tried using a much stickier oil but that doesn't penetrate the bar groove as easily so that has its iproblems.

BTW there is a relatively easy fix for the front chain adjustment adjustments on the 3120 when it is placed in a conventional alaskan mill.



Even better is to ditch the conventional bar clamps altogether and drill holes in the bars and bolt them onto the mill uprights.

But I'd still rather use a side adjust mechanism.


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## Big_Wood (Jan 17, 2014)

BobL said:


> I count the outboard sprocket on the 880 as a distinct advantage over the 3120. Being able to swap between 8 and 7 pin sprockets is a bit easier than needing to keep two different sets of chains with different raker depths.
> 
> 
> I've milled with both saws in Ozzy hardwood and found the extra oil output by the 3120 was (as with most saws) mostly wasted by coming off at the drive and bar nose sprockets and I had to fit an Aux oiler if I didn't want to damage the bar. I've tried using a much stickier oil but that doesn't penetrate the bar groove as easily so that has its iproblems.
> ...



i just use a swiveling screwdriver. works great for me. no need to drill my mill. we can agree that you milling ozzy hardwoods will be alot different then me milling cedar, alder, fir etc........ the oil i use makes it's way around the whole bar. the whole chain is actually wet with oil when i check in between cuts. also i don't mill with different chain. i think of ways to make it easier not harder. i don't even take my saw out of the mill unless i need to switch to my spare saw. i don't have time like that to waste when i'm out there trying to produce as much as i can with the time i have. i do miss the side adjust chain tensioner though. i have actually owned 2 084's and will own another. i promise you that. the 088's and 880's i have milled with were my buddy's so don't have a ton of experience with them although i would love to own one. i'd like to have 1 of each to tell you the truth. i could trade one of my 3120's for an 084 right now if i wanted. my buddy has one and when he tried my 3120's milling he fell in love. he wants to trade me so bad but i would rather keep all my 3120's so i have parts for years to come. another 084 will come to me for cheap if i'm patient.


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## mdavlee (Jan 17, 2014)

Well I got an 088 on the way.


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## Big_Wood (Jan 17, 2014)

rogue60 said:


> Got the 3120 new and in the first tank of fuel was like well that was a waste of money being used to 88s..I dont no if it was rev limited but it didnt seem to rev that hard and drink the fuel was like it had no flywheel weight as well would bog so easy, it had a H on the carb that seemed to do nothing going in or out..All I know that saw made me work twice as hard...It may have been just a dud Ive seen vids of stock ones running way better than it did but was happy to see it go to a new home..



i understand man. IMO a 3120 is NOT suitable for milling stock but they work great for me the way i got them setup. there's only a .01% of 1% chance you had one with a high speed adjustment. the fixed jet would do what you described. thankfully both mine have a high speed adjustment.


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## Timberframed (Jan 17, 2014)

If I had either a Stihl or Husky prolly remove the oil pump drive gear so as not to have to **** with filling it and save it from burning up and for another day. They don't really assist in milling anyway on long bars. The saw I mentioned above isn't even equipped with one but was designed to run wot 24-7


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## Big_Wood (Jan 19, 2014)

mdavlee said:


> Well I got an 088 on the way.



Way to go mike. Got yourself a proper mill saw. I wanna add something here too. This is to the owners of 3120's who are considering milling with them or have and think they are a turd. All i can say is they are . I have to admit that husqvarna really ****ed up with that saw. Fortunately the issues can be fixed. The green coil is the first and biggest concern. They feel doggy because they are limited to an extremely low rpm to begin with. They are more then capable to hold 9,600 in the cut which is where the problems come. They hammer off the limiter all the time and i hate it. The higher limit setup or unlimited setup is way better. Mine will hold around 10,500 in the cut so with a 9,600 limit they are restricted from their full potential right from the factory. The next thing will be the carb, either reaming the fixed jet or getting the carb modded fixes this. The later is a better option for me as i mill at all different elevations. After those 2 issues a muffler mod and you got yourself an awesome mill saw. I still hate them with a passion though. I wish i could mill with a 346. To be honest if i had 3 084/088's i would be milling with those. I chose 3120's because i got lots of parts and know even if one dies i won't be dishing out nearly $2000 just to get a new saw.


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## mdavlee (Jan 19, 2014)

I had a 3120 with the 12k coil. It ran strong but I didn't really plan on milling at the time I had it and lost interest in a race saw out of it. I'll see how this 088 will work out. I may buy a mill since it will be lighter than what I can build. The mill I have now with a 394 on it is 39 lbs.


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## BobL (Jan 19, 2014)

mdavlee said:


> I had a 3120 with the 12k coil. It ran strong but I didn't really plan on milling at the time I had it and lost interest in a race saw out of it. I'll see how this 088 will work out. I may buy a mill since it will be lighter than what I can build. The mill I have now with a 394 on it is 39 lbs.



CS Milling on the flat and weight is a handicap since you have to push it along. Mill on a slope and weight is your friend - a big friend since you don't have to push as much or at all. I have seen people add rocks or cookies to weight their mill when milling on a slope. My aluminium BIL mill is still 70 lbs with a full load of fuel and oils, the 076 and 64" rails with 60" bar and chain. My mainly steel project mill is 78 lbs with the 880, and 42" bar and chain. The heavier the mill is the more it will self feed even on very shallow slopes.

Weight is a bit of a "swings and roundabouts" matter. a few seconds of more OOMPH at the begging and end of the log OR providing more push all the way through the cut.


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## mdavlee (Jan 20, 2014)

Some of the logs I can put on a slope and some I can't. If I can roll them I use the beam machine to get a flat on them.


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## ptjeep (Jan 22, 2014)

Can't wait to see some vids of the 88 in action. Are you going to leave it stock?


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## mdavlee (Jan 22, 2014)

ptjeep said:


> Can't wait to see some vids of the 88 in action. Are you going to leave it stock?



I'll try to get one Monday. It's not stock


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## sachsmo (Jan 24, 2014)

My next set-up is going to be electric.

I have 40 feet of precision rail and bearings.


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## jstare (Feb 21, 2014)

This thread has been really useful, I am trying to decide the same thing with what saw to get for my milling. Still can't decide but I think it will be a Husky, I just like them better in general.


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## jagchaser (Feb 24, 2014)

Just got my first 880 on Friday. I have a 36" Alaskan on its way now. I had to do a little cutting with it this weekend and that convinced me to put the mill on it and leave it there! I am SO out of shape!


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## jstare (Feb 24, 2014)

jagchaser said:


> Just got my first 880 on Friday. I have a 36" Alaskan on its way now. I had to do a little cutting with it this weekend and that convinced me to put the mill on it and leave it there! I am SO out of shape!



Just picked up a nice low hours 394xp that I will be using for milling, it will get left on the mill setup too when my 36" mill comes. I bought a 371xp as well for cutting logs to length and other cutting tasks. These big saws are just too big for everyday jobs.


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## mdavlee (Feb 25, 2014)

I ended up with a 084 to go along with the 088. I have a 41" and 48" bars and a 30" and 36" mill. I'm going to pick up a 56" mill soon.


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## Timberwerks (Feb 25, 2014)

It took awhile for my wife to get used to handling an 088 with 41" bar, now she can cut all day long


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## mdavlee (May 14, 2014)

Well I've got some run time milling with the 088 and the ported 390. The 390 will use more fuel than the 088. I milled some red oak I believe Saturday and got 4 slabs and made 6 cuts with the 088. It burnt right at a gallon of mix. Yesterday in some cherry I made 4 cuts and couldn't finish a cut twice without a refuel stop with the 390. The oak was 7' or so and the cherry was 9'. The cherry was narrower until the last cut. I didn't measure then exact but may to keep track of fuel usage for bd ft milled.


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## wap13 (May 14, 2014)

mdavlee said:


> Well I've got some run time milling with the 088 and the ported 390. The 390 will use more fuel than the 088. I milled some red oak I believe Saturday and got 4 slabs and made 6 cuts with the 088. It burnt right at a gallon of mix. Yesterday in some cherry I made 4 cuts and couldn't finish a cut twice without a refuel stop with the 390. The oak was 7' or so and the cherry was 9'. The cherry was narrower until the last cut. I didn't measure then exact but may to keep track of fuel usage for bd ft milled.




Would you consider the 390 a viable option to run a CSM? Been kicking around the idea of getting CSM but figured I would need to step up to at least a 394/5.


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## mdavlee (May 14, 2014)

I wouldn't want to run a 36" bar on it like that all the time. Maybe a 32" bar and some smaller wood than I was in. If fuel usage doesn't matter then by all means tune down some rpms and go for it. An aux oiler wouldn't be a bad idea either.


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## wap13 (May 15, 2014)

mdavlee said:


> I wouldn't want to run a 36" bar on it like that all the time. Maybe a 32" bar and some smaller wood than I was in. If fuel usage doesn't matter then by all means tune down some rpms and go for it. An aux oiler wouldn't be a bad idea either.


Fuel usage really doesnt matter to me. I am considering milling to get some bigger slabs (40ish") so it looks like a bigger saw is in order but nice to know the 390 would be up to it in a pinch. Thanks for the input.


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## mdavlee (May 15, 2014)

No problem. I know now to make sure to have more than 2 gallons with me if I'm milling with the 390 for more than 6 cuts.


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