# dolmar PS-421 mods



## fordf150 (Jul 8, 2014)

Had a 421 on the bench making a few minor adjustments.


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## fordf150 (Jul 8, 2014)

Most popular mod is removing the cat. Which is pretty simple to do. The muffler is 3 pieces with the cat spot welded into the center piece. Drill the 2 spot welds and the cat comes out. [/ATTACH]


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## fordf150 (Jul 8, 2014)

And no more cat


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## fordf150 (Jul 8, 2014)

After the cat is gone I use the embossed area as my outline for the opening.


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## fordf150 (Jul 8, 2014)

They do require tuning after this and require a DD screwdriver for high side adjustments. Some of the older ones had epoxy covering the adjustment screws.


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## fordf150 (Jul 8, 2014)

The only real problem we have had with these saws is the fuel line coming off the nipple inside the tank. That issue is solved by adding an O ring to the fuel line for that little bit of extra clamping power.


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## RedFir Down (Jul 8, 2014)

Looks good Nate! How much gain do you see out of a muffler mod like this? Not to mention the other benefits of getting rid of the CAT.
Where would you recommend a guy to look for a DD tool? Thats about the only one I dont have.


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## fordf150 (Jul 8, 2014)

I don't know about the true gains. Never took the time to video and time cuts on one before and after. Even without any performance gains the reduction in heat is well worth it. This saw took an extra 1/4 turn on the high side to get 13000 for break in. Don't know how it was tuned before hand though. DD tool is find a willing dealer to supply you one or ebay. There is spline, D and DD plus the pac man screw driver.


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## MS460WOODCHUCK (Jul 8, 2014)

fordf150 said:


> I don't know about the true gains. Never took the time to video and time cuts on one before and after. Even without any performance gains the reduction in heat is well worth it. This saw took an extra 1/4 turn on the high side to get 13000 for break in. Don't know how it was tuned before hand though. DD tool is find a willing dealer to supply you one or ebay. There is spline, D and DD plus the pac man screw driver.



Do you have any pics of these screw drivers or is there other names for them? I just looked on ebay and could not find any d or dd screw drivers.


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## RedFir Down (Jul 8, 2014)

fordf150 said:


> I don't know about the true gains. Never took the time to video and time cuts on one before and after. Even without any performance gains the reduction in heat is well worth it. This saw took an extra 1/4 turn on the high side to get 13000 for break in. Don't know how it was tuned before hand though. DD tool is find a willing dealer to supply you one or ebay. There is spline, D and DD plus the pac man screw driver.


Good to know. I bet the saw does run a lot cooler. Plus im sure the improved throttle response is nice for a saw that size.
Also thanks for the heads up about the occasional issue with the fuel line coming loose.


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## RedFir Down (Jul 8, 2014)

MS460WOODCHUCK said:


> Do you have any pics of these screw drivers or is there other names for them? I just looked on ebay and could not find any d or dd screw drivers.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZAMA-CARBUR...703?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d4bf13db7


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## fordf150 (Jul 8, 2014)

RedFir Down said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZAMA-CARBUR...703?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d4bf13db7


That's the one.
I have only had a few with the line come loose but this saw isn't going to be close to me so I wanted to fix it before it was an issue


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## MS460WOODCHUCK (Jul 8, 2014)

RedFir Down said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZAMA-CARBUR...703?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d4bf13db7


Wow them sure are not cheap! I am glad I bought two splined ones when they were six bucks each.


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## fordf150 (Jul 8, 2014)

This saw didn't get it but I took a couple pictures just to show what is needed for installing a .325 bar and chain on these saws. A clutch drum and bar from a 5105 plus a 10x16x.2 mm shim is needed. This is probably a worthwhile modification just to have rim sprockets instead of spur. The bar needs slight modification to allow it to oil. We drill 2 holes in the groove down through into the adjuster holes. Black lines show where to drill. That is how I run mine and have set a few up to run it. Haven't ran anything but a 16" .325 on these but sticking with 3/8LP an 18" bar is pretty common.


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## wildroamer (Aug 19, 2014)

fordf150 said:


> After the cat is gone I use the embossed area as my outline for the opening. View attachment 358456



Just had a chance to use it this past weekend. Cut and ran great, but definitely got HOT.
Can you be more specific regarding this step for a newb?
Thanks


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## KenJax Tree (Aug 19, 2014)

wildroamer said:


> Just had a chance to use it this past weekend. Cut and ran great, but definitely got HOT.
> Can you be more specific regarding this step for a newb?
> Thanks



I Ieft the gills in mine but the CAT is gone. It runs much cooler with the CAT out.


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## fordf150 (Aug 19, 2014)

I use that almost oval shaped edge that surrounds the gills as my guide to cut the opening larger. just removing the cat is a good start. I will take mine apart and snap a picture of the finished opening. I forgot to take a picture of the finished product when I did this thread.


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## KenJax Tree (Aug 19, 2014)

I saw it in a thread you did a while ago


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## wildroamer (Aug 19, 2014)

Hey thanks, I appreciate it! That said, I _may _just go ahead and order the catless muffler, as it is only around $35 or so I think. That might allow me to do this mod sooner, and replace stock muffler for any warranty work...


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## SawTroll (Aug 19, 2014)

fordf150 said:


> ..... Haven't ran anything but a 16" .325 on these but sticking with 3/8LP an 18" bar is pretty common. ....




The 3/8 lo-pro bars that are called 18" actually are (slightly long) 16" bars.


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## KenJax Tree (Aug 19, 2014)

I use a 16" lp with VXL


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## fordf150 (Aug 19, 2014)




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## wildroamer (Aug 19, 2014)

Wow, looks great! How is that screen attached?


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## fordf150 (Aug 19, 2014)

It's the factory screen


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## wildroamer (Aug 19, 2014)

Ah, my bad. Optical illusion I guess, thought I was looking at the other side, and it looked different from your first pics... Cat is going soon... Thanks again for this,


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## wildroamer (Sep 3, 2014)

FYI, euro catless muffler installed. Ran much cooler! Beat the snot out of it, mostly with a "18" inch GB Arbor tech and 91VXL chain. FYI for those interested, on my bathroom scale - PS-421, catless muffler, full gas, full bar oil, "16" Oregon Pro 91 bar and chain (As Saw Troll pointed out, really about 15") = 13.2 lbs. For comparison - Stihl MS-261, stock 16" bar and chain (_really 16"!), _full gas, full bar oil = 15 lb. 
Very happy with the 421 so far, though surely not fully broken in yet.


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## KenJax Tree (Sep 3, 2014)

They're great saws.


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## wildroamer (Sep 3, 2014)

FYI for those interested, the inexpensive Efco case, size small, fits the PS-421 like a glove, including the stock sheath! Just have to engage the chain brake. Oh, and the stock sheath fits an 18" (17, really) 3/8 LP bar just fine also.


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## blsnelling (Sep 3, 2014)

Sweet tip on that little case.


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## fordf150 (Sep 3, 2014)

Nicer case than what you get through dolmar


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## KenJax Tree (Sep 3, 2014)

Mine came with an ugly case....not my pic but i got this case


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## fin460 (Sep 3, 2014)

Hey that is my floor!.... ugly tile and grout I know, I hate it. I didn't pick it.


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## KenJax Tree (Sep 3, 2014)

It looks better than the case lol


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## fin460 (Sep 3, 2014)

Bar oil hides well on that floor from the wife though.


I hate this thread, I held a 421 at the new local dolmar dealer in town back in July. I really liked it. I almost bought it, but talked my self out of it, saying I wouldn't use it with a ms261, or my cs2253 so close by. I have a bunch of small 6" and less dead elms to remove from my large back yard (overgrown wooded) I'm going to thin it out when the leaves fall, I'm thinking that I am going to have to try out a new dolmar when the time is right.


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## KenJax Tree (Sep 3, 2014)

Its a bit heavy for 42cc but you will NOT be disappointed for the price.


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## fordf150 (Sep 4, 2014)

Haven't seen an unhappy customer on one of these yet. It's the first saw I grab and for personal use I have 421, 5105, 6100Masterminded, 7900, 355T, and a 2260(till the sales rep picks it up)


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## Red Elm (Sep 4, 2014)

Yep, I've got three 5105's, used them alot for light forestry work and firewood. Since I got the de-catted 421 and put 12+ tanks through it, the 5105's set on the shelf. When it's time to go bigger than the 421, I jump to the 6100. I was cutting 8-10" hedge yesterday w the 421, buzzed right through. I call it the "42 cc pocket rocket"!!


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## Red Elm (Sep 4, 2014)

Nate helped me set mine up for TSI work. Alot of our TSI work is on bush honeysuckle and Russian Olive. This is thick brush. I wanted a saw lighter than a 5105 that was easy handling, still had some power and an 18" bar for reach with a non-grabby chain. Mine wears a lightweight Carlton bar and Carlton Lo-pro chain. It does a great job at what we set it up for, but I find it's really great at cutting anything up to 10". I have cut mulberry and hackberry full bar, just gotta use what I call the Husqvarna touch, no pressure just let It keep rpms up on that bigger stuff. It keeps pullin chips! I tried a 7 tooth rim set-up, but went back to the 6 tooth spur sprocket. I like my Dolmars torquey, not high reving dust makers.


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## DOLMARLUVER (Sep 4, 2014)

Never modded a muffler for so maybe it's time to start. Does the muffler require grinding to separate or will it come apart when the bolts are removed? Mine has the epoxy covered screw. Can the epoxy be removed and high speed adjusted? As amazing as mine runs stock, I just have to remove the cat. Was challenged this past weekend by a MS250. You can imagine the results


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## KenJax Tree (Sep 4, 2014)

It comes apart when the bolts are removed but i can't comment on the expoy as mine didn't have it


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## redoakneck (Sep 5, 2014)

I have had the 420 for 3 years, let my buddy use it and keep it at his house all the time. This buddy of mine is hard on equipment, no foolin around, and that saw still runs great!!! He has a pile of dead poulans.


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## ColdStihl (Sep 8, 2014)

MS460WOODCHUCK said:


> Do you have any pics of these screw drivers or is there other names for them? I just looked on ebay and could not find any d or dd screw drivers.



I'm late, but here you go. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQADGUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## Andyshine77 (Sep 8, 2014)

The epoxy can be removed, I did so on my 421. With the carb removed from the saw, I used a small cutting disk to cut through the metal housing around the needles. I than carfully spread the housing apart and removed it. The epoxy will breakup pretty easily.


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## fordf150 (Sep 8, 2014)

I started removing the epoxy with a pick and butanetorch to hear it up and make it soft. Which worked ok but after rich did a 5105 with cut off wheel I tried that and have done 4 in the last week that way. Much faster and easier


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## fordf150 (Nov 9, 2014)

5105 carb instead of the 421 but the problem and solution to it. 421 carb is even easier to do since it is only the high side epoxied.


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## randythelogger (Dec 5, 2014)

Were do you get a dolmar 421 euro mufflers


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## wildroamer (Dec 5, 2014)

Here you go... https://www.jackssmallengines.com/parts-lookup/195174500/369771/ps


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## MountainHigh (Apr 23, 2016)

Late to the 421 party, some great info on this thread. 

I have a Makita EA4300 on order and wondering if there are still any Euro mufflers around anywhere for this saw? Above link shows no longer available.

Thanks in advance.


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## fordf150 (Apr 23, 2016)

MountainHigh said:


> Late to the 421 party, some great info on this thread.
> 
> I have a Makita EA4300 on order and wondering if there are still any Euro mufflers around anywhere for this saw? Above link shows no longer available.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Not really but the cat is so easy to remove that I only ever sold a couple euro mufflers


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## MountainHigh (Apr 24, 2016)

fordf150 said:


> Not really but the cat is so easy to remove that I only ever sold a couple euro mufflers



Thanks ... your instructions look good. not too eager to mess with it while under warranty without a backup muffler.


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## Andyshine77 (Apr 24, 2016)

Just an FYI. Was using my 421 last weekend and she started acting like it was running out of fuel, even though I just refueled, well we know the fuel lines can slip off, sure enough the line was setting at the bottom of the tank. I grabbed two green O-rings and I was back to cutting in under 5 minutes. I do wonder how long the rings will last in fuel?


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## fordf150 (Apr 24, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> Just an FYI. Was using my 421 last weekend and she started acting like it was running out of fuel, even though I just refueled, well we know the fuel lines can slip off, sure enough the line was setting at the bottom of the tank. I grabbed two green O-rings and I was back to cutting in under 5 minutes. I do wonder how long the rings will last in fuel?



If they were the same green o ring I use they will last a couple years easy. They have been on my personal saw for 4 or 5 years now.

Not sure what they are made of but the o rings I use are for air conditioning lines


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## fordf150 (Jun 14, 2016)




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## damifino (Jun 14, 2016)

What size bar and chain is on that 421?


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## fordf150 (Jun 14, 2016)

damifino said:


> What size bar and chain is on that 421?


16" .325


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## damifino (Jun 14, 2016)

What's the story on those dogs? They look great.


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## CoreyB (Jun 14, 2016)

fordf150 said:


> View attachment 508394
> View attachment 508395
> View attachment 508396


Looks good. I need room get one of these before the black name plate comes out.


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## fordf150 (Jun 14, 2016)

damifino said:


> What's the story on those dogs? They look great.


5105 outer and custom ones I had made for the inner.


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## fordf150 (Jun 14, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> Looks good. I need room get one of these before the black name plate comes out.


I just had to order more this week and added a blue version to the order just for fun


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## MountainHigh (Jun 14, 2016)

damifino said:


> What size bar and chain is on that 421?


Could you please tell me the Model number on that bar? i don't see a 16" .325 Oregon bar that has the oiler holes that fit the Dolmar 421.
Thanks in advance.


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## fordf150 (Jun 15, 2016)

MountainHigh said:


> Could you please tell me the Model number on that bar? i don't see a 16" .325 Oregon bar that has the oiler holes that fit the Dolmar 421.
> Thanks in advance.



here is the instructions for modifying K095 laminate bars to fit but if you want direct fit with no mods your looking for K041 mount bars 



fordf150 said:


> This saw didn't get it but I took a couple pictures just to show what is needed for installing a .325 bar and chain on these saws. A clutch drum and bar from a 5105 plus a 10x16x.2 mm shim is needed. This is probably a worthwhile modification just to have rim sprockets instead of spur. The bar needs slight modification to allow it to oil. We drill 2 holes in the groove down through into the adjuster holes. Black lines show where to drill. That is how I run mine and have set a few up to run it. Haven't ran anything but a 16" .325 on these but sticking with 3/8LP an 18" bar is pretty common. View attachment 358476
> View attachment 358477
> View attachment 358478


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## Chris-PA (Jun 15, 2016)

If you need to modify a bar hole a bit a chainsaw file will remove material faster than you might think.


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## CoreyB (Jun 15, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> If you need to modify a bar hole a bit a chainsaw file will remove material faster than you might think.


I don't think a file will work for that mod.


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## Chris-PA (Jun 15, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> I don't think a file will work for that mod.


I've done similar mod in this way:



Basically the goal was to open the adjuster hole to the bar groove.


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## CoreyB (Jun 15, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> I've done similar mod in this way:
> View attachment 508538
> 
> 
> Basically the goal was to open the adjuster hole to the bar groove.


Ahhhh. Cool


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## MountainHigh (Jun 15, 2016)

thanks guys .... I've got a couple of K095 bars for my 346 - might hack one to fit.

Any suggestions for 16" K041 bar? 

Looks like this is the one to get - not sure about the low kick back chain?:
*part number 105711
Chain: 20BPX saw chain ; .325" pitch; .050" gauge; 66 drive link*
*Bar: 160GLGK041 Pro Lite® ; K041 mount*

*http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/combos/combo_105711.htm*


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## fordf150 (Jun 15, 2016)

MountainHigh said:


> thanks guys .... I've got a couple of K095 bars for my 346 - might hack one to fit.
> 
> Any suggestions for 16" K041 bar?
> 
> ...


thats the bar you want. nothing wrong with the BPX chain...it doesnt have the offensive drags or any of that nonsense.


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## Chris-PA (Jun 15, 2016)

fordf150 said:


> thats the bar you want. nothing wrong with the BPX chain...it doesnt have the offensive drags or any of that nonsense.


I really like 20BPX chain, but I'm not sure about using it on a 42cc saw - maybe with a 16" bar it would be OK. BPX in not a lo profile or narrow kerf chain, it's got tall cutters and take a good bite and will put more load on the saw.

I have a ported 46cc Poulan with the typical 20" 78DL bar. It was the first saw I ported and I went maybe just a bit too long on the intake duration - it's pretty impressive for 46cc but lately I'm realizing that the 20BPX is sometimes too much. It really depends on the wood, and if it can keep the rpm up it hauls butt with the BPX. But with other wood it's just a bit too much and it pulls the rpm down. So basically if the saw has the stones to pull it BPX will work great, but if not it may be a disappointment. 

I would not want to put BPX on my fastest ported 42cc, it's much happier with 3/8 lo pro.


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## blsnelling (Jun 15, 2016)

IMHO, the best chain for a 421 or MS241 would be Stihl 63PS. It's the only full chisel Picco chain on the market.


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 15, 2016)

I agree, 63PS all the way.





Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## CoreyB (Jul 24, 2016)

Ok quick question why not just remove the middle piece with the cat and just use the 2 pieces vs 3?
@fordf150


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 24, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> Ok quick question why not just remove the middle piece with the cat and just use the 2 pieces vs 3?
> @fordf150


Thats what you do. The plate the CAT in on is tack welded into the cover. Drill the tack welds and the plate falls right out and put the cover back on. You can grind out the gills on the outlet too if want.

This is a 350 but the 421 is the same.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/dolmar-350-muffler-mod.248809/


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## CoreyB (Jul 24, 2016)

KenJax Tree said:


> Thats what you do. The plate the CAT in on is tack welded into the cover. Drill the tack welds and the plate falls right out and put the cover back on. You can grind out the gills on the outlet too if want.
> 
> This is a 350 but the 421 is the same.
> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/dolmar-350-muffler-mod.248809/


Ya but it still looks like there are 3 pieces. Just wondering if you could just eliminate the middle or outside plate all together


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## backhoelover (Jul 24, 2016)

fordf150 said:


> I don't know about the true gains. Never took the time to video and time cuts on one before and after. Even without any performance gains the reduction in heat is well worth it. This saw took an extra 1/4 turn on the high side to get 13000 for break in. Don't know how it was tuned before hand though. DD tool is find a willing dealer to supply you one or ebay. There is spline, D and DD plus the pac man screw driver.



what do you do about the epoxy covered adjustment screws 
plus these carbs tools lol 


i got it real bad


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 24, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> Ya but it still looks like there are 3 pieces. Just wondering if you could just eliminate the middle or outside plate all together


Technically it is 3 pieces but when you pull the cover off its only 2, the spot welds hold the whole plate with the CAT into the cover so the only way to eliminate the CAT it to get rid of the middle plate. I don't think you could just take the CAT off and leave the plate beacause when you drill the welds the whole plate comes out of the cover.

You can't eliminate the outside because its the cover you have to get the middle plate with the CAT out that is welded into the cover.

If you took it apart you'd see exactly what im saying.


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## CoreyB (Jul 24, 2016)

KenJax Tree said:


> Technically it is 3 pieces but when you pull the cover off its only 2, the spot welds hold the whole plate with the CAT into the cover so the only way to eliminate the CAT it to get rid of the middle plate. I don't think you could just take the CAT off and leave the plate beacause when you drill the welds the whole plate comes out of the cover.
> 
> You can't eliminate the outside because its the cover you have to get the middle plate with the CAT out that is welded into the cover.
> 
> If you took it apart you'd see exactly what im saying.


Yep guess I am going to have to get one to take apart. Thanks for the explanation though. I am a bit slow sometimes.


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## 7sleeper (Jul 25, 2016)

subscribed!


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## damifino (Jul 25, 2016)

KenJax Tree said:


> Technically it is 3 pieces but when you pull the cover off its only 2, the spot welds hold the whole plate with the CAT into the cover so the only way to eliminate the CAT it to get rid of the middle plate. I don't think you could just take the CAT off and leave the plate beacause when you drill the welds the whole plate comes out of the cover.
> 
> You can't eliminate the outside because its the cover you have to get the middle plate with the CAT out that is welded into the cover.
> 
> ...


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## damifino (Jul 25, 2016)

Sorry I will try again.
The cat is attached to the middle plate. I want to drill spot welds on middle plate to remove cat and throw cat away.
Now I have original outer plate, middle plate(that cat was attached to) and inner plate.
Why can't I discard the original outer plate and make the middle plate(without cat) the new outer plate. The middle plate really is the outer chamber for the exhaust anyway and the spark screen is attached to the middle plate.
What is the real purpose of the original outer plate any way...no exhaust touches it.


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 25, 2016)

damifino said:


> Sorry I will try again.
> The cat is attached to the middle plate. I want to drill spot welds on middle plate to remove cat and throw cat away.
> Now I have original outer plate, middle plate(that cat was attached to) and inner plate.
> Why can't I discard the original outer plate and make the middle plate(without cat) the new outer plate. The middle plate really is the outer chamber for the exhaust anyway and the spark screen is attached to the middle plate.
> What is the real purpose of the original outer plate any way...no exhaust touches it.


The exhaust DOES touch it the exhaust port is on the outter cover after you pull the middle plate and CAT the exhaust goes directly out the cover through the exhaust port instead of through the CAT and then out the exhaust port.

When you pull the middle plate the CAT is attached to its gonna be all bent from prying it out.

Basically all you're doing is gutting the internal part of the outside cover so all it is is a cover with the exhaust port.


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## damifino (Jul 25, 2016)

KenJax Tree said:


> The exhaust DOES touch it the exhaust port is on the outter cover after you pull the middle plate and CAT the exhaust goes directly out the cover through the exhaust port instead of through the CAT and then out the exhaust port.
> 
> When you pull the middle plate the CAT is attached to its gonna be all bent from prying it out.
> 
> Basically all you're doing is gutting the internal part of the outside cover so all it is is a cover with the exhaust port.



I know the exhaust does touch the exhaust port on outer plate but only as it is funneled past by the exhaust port of the middle plate. So you are saying still use the middle plate(with cat removed) and the original outer plate?


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 25, 2016)

Original outer plate. Without then CAT there is no purpose for the middle plate.


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## damifino (Jul 25, 2016)

KenJax Tree said:


> I Ieft the gills in mine but the CAT is gone. It runs much cooler with the CAT out.





KenJax Tree said:


> Thats what you do. The plate the CAT in on is tack welded into the cover. Drill the tack welds and the plate falls right out and put the cover back on. You can grind out the gills on the outlet too if want.
> 
> This is a 350 but the 421 is the same.
> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/dolmar-350-muffler-mod.248809/





KenJax Tree said:


> Original outer plate. Without then CAT there is no purpose for the middle plate.



I am not following then. In the above quotes you have removed cat but still used middle plate(with cat removed). Now you say without the cat there is no purpose for middle plate. I appreciate your input, I must be missing something.


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 25, 2016)

damifino said:


> I am not following then. In the above quotes you have removed cat but still used middle plate(with cat removed). Now you say without the cat there is no purpose for middle plate. I appreciate your input, I must be missing something.



You're missing it. Left the gills in meaning the gills on the outter cover outlet. in order for the CAT to come out so does the whole middle plate and it must be pulled or pryed out so its gonna be all bent up.

Look at the pictures in the link in my quote you posted


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## CoreyB (Jul 25, 2016)

damifino said:


> I am not following then. In the above quotes you have removed cat but still used middle plate(with cat removed). Now you say without the cat there is no purpose for middle plate. I appreciate your input, I must be missing something.


You and I are on the same page lol


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## CoreyB (Jul 25, 2016)

As soon as I get one I will do a YouTube video lol I am a hands on learner anyways.


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 25, 2016)

Ok this is the inside of the outer cover after removing it from the saw with the CAT plate intact. 






This is showing how the middle plate with the CAT separates from the cover after the welds are drilled





This is the middle plate with the CAT being pulled out of the outside cover





This is the outside cover after the middle plate and CAT was removed. See the gills i was referring to?





Here is the cover put back on without the CAT and middle plate inside


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## damifino (Jul 25, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> You and I are on the same page lol



Thanks Corey, thought my mind was slipping(well...it is). Could there be two different mufflers?


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 25, 2016)

Here is the part that stays on when the outside cover is taken off


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 25, 2016)

damifino said:


> Thanks Corey, thought my mind was slipping(well...it is). Could there be two different mufflers?



Those pictures are of a 351 muffler but the 421 is done the exact same way.


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## damifino (Jul 25, 2016)

KenJax I think I am seeing it. You are calling the "outer plate" the outer plate of the middle/with cat plate. I was referring to the outer plate as the very utmost outer plate.


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 25, 2016)

I guess[emoji1]. But you see how it comes apart now?


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## damifino (Jul 26, 2016)

So my original question still remains.... after I remove the cat from the middle section I want to use the remaining middle section(with cat removed) as my outer most piece of the muffler and discard the original outer most piece. So now the muffler becomes a 2 piece empty can. You loose a couple of ounces(not that anyone on this site cares about the weight of a chainsaw) but you also loose another piece of the muffler that could hold heat. Is there any reason why I shouldn't do this.


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## CoreyB (Jul 26, 2016)

damifino said:


> So my original question still remains.... after I remove the cat from the middle section I want to use the remaining middle section(with cat removed) as my outer most piece of the muffler and discard the original outer most piece. So now the muffler becomes a 2 piece empty can. You loose a couple of ounces(not that anyone on this site cares about the weight of a chainsaw) but you also loose another piece of the muffler that could hold heat. Is there any reason why I shouldn't do this.


I just took a 421 muffler apart and other then looks I see no need for the outside plate. And other then the hole being very large don't see why a guy couldn't just get rid of the middle section without any grinding.


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## CoreyB (Jul 26, 2016)

Here ya go?

Other then cosmetics I see no reason for the outside plate.


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## CoreyB (Jul 27, 2016)

Anybody want to see a before and after video of a brand new 421?


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## rburg (Jul 27, 2016)

What chain is on your 421?


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## CoreyB (Jul 27, 2016)

rburg said:


> What chain is on your 421?


On mine is just some Oregon vxl for now. I want to order some Stihl ps


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## rburg (Jul 27, 2016)

I think you will like the PS chain.


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 27, 2016)

I've ordered PS chain from this guy. He takes a lot of crap for claiming his sprockets allow you to run a 28" on a MS 192 but i've had good service buying chain.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-3-8-Pitch-PS-RACING-CHAIN-16-inch-Bar-56-drivers-full-chisel-050-gauge-/271759833210?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150519202348%26meid%3D2b0ca6526a82400b8ba661bdbc7ade3f%26pid%3D100408%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D21%26sd%3D360734450203&_trksid=p2056116.c100408.m2460


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## Franny K (Jul 27, 2016)

It seems Baileys sells that chain as well. I have not ever had to re do any of their splices. The above guy has 25 foot sections that seem quite reasonable. 
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...in-Loop-63PS-56-Drive-Links-3617-005-0056.axd
It may look a bit more but they send you coupons and $20 might get you to the next level depending on what you had in mind.


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## fordf150 (Jul 27, 2016)




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## 7sleeper (Jul 27, 2016)

@KenJax Tree ,

Do you still have your 421? I thought I remembered you commenting on having it replaced some time ago with something else. Could you estimate how many tankfillings you have run through it? Thanks!

@fordf150 ,





, didn't expect anything else from you! 

7


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## CoreyB (Jul 28, 2016)

fordf150 said:


> View attachment 516045
> View attachment 516046


I will have to remember to add some loops to my next order. That will be convenient! Lol


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## Franny K (Jul 28, 2016)

Are you folks running the 6 tooth spur or have you gone to a somewhat mis matched 7 tooth rim drive set up for this Ps or vxl?


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## CoreyB (Jul 28, 2016)

I am running the stock (i think) 6 tooth spur. 
However I only cut hard wood and personally i prefer torque over chain speed.


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## LittleLebowski (Jul 28, 2016)

Where can I order the cat-less Euro muffler?


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## fordf150 (Jul 28, 2016)

LittleLebowski said:


> Where can I order the cat-less Euro muffler?


discontinued last i checked. drill out the 2 spot welds a decat yours....it literally can be done in 5 minutes or less


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