# 056mag2 project underway... part one of many



## Lakeside53 (May 1, 2007)

I fixed an old 056 for a local tree service today (uh oh, a "side job" :hmm3grin2orange: ).. He's had it since new, loves it dearly, but the Bosch ignition has failed - works great for 15 seconds then quits. Can't buy them any more and most used ignitions of that type are on the way out. Replaced the flywheel with the later type, and an ignition from a TS360 cut-off saw. Three pulls... Whrrommm! Damn that felt good.

Hmmmm... my bench has been cluttered with parts from 3-4 056 super and mag2 for over a year... Time to get that old junk blowing smoke and throwning chips. I figiure I have enough to build an real nice mag2 (56mm bore) and maybe a Super (54mm.).

I HATE working on flithy saws... make a mediocre living out of it, but I'll be damned if i'll do it on my own stuff. Time to clean up the mag2 engine. 

I'm not sure if I'll spit it parts as it's pretty nice inside, and as saws go, it's only about a 7 on the filth scale.. and if I do split it, I want it clean so so no crap gets inside..

First seal up the inlet - tied-off bicycle inner tube and the boot clamp, the exhaust -064 muffler spacer and piece of rubber, and the plug - hey let's just use a spark plug!

Plug a pressure test bulb on the impulse connection and get some pressure in that engine. Hmmmm.. won't hold pressure... but good enough. With a small amount of pressure, I can dunk this entire engine into anything, and nothing will get inside.




The orginal... sealed up








After a little brush work with disgusting old gritty solvent/gas mix. Who cares, it can't get inside...









Into a 5 gallon bucket of very used purple cleaner - hey, bubbles.. keep the pressure up...







hit it with the gargen hose...






Not finished yet.. into the ultrasonic cleaner with clean ('ish) purple cleaner to bust the crap off the cylinder fins. 








more to come..


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## Lakeside53 (May 1, 2007)

*056 Mag2 project underway - part 2*

Hmmmm... more bubbles... Leaky seal.... Dang.. No longer available, but.. I still have some 







Now I can work on the saw! Total time?? maybe 10 minutes of cleaning... and not a drop inside...








The project... after some organization and sorting. Clean to the left, dirt to the right...








And...


I sure like spring in the PNW! Sorry, part of my yard... 










More to come next week...


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## Lakeside53 (May 2, 2007)

*One small thing...*

Block off the oil outlet! I forgot, but got lucky - the pump stopped the various cleaners from getting into the oil tank...


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## martrix (May 2, 2007)

Cool, watching with interest.

I reckon my 051 was a 10 on the filth scale! Took me a few days to clean it.....doh!:bang: 

Thats the way to clean em. That almost looks brand new.
Pretty awesome back yard.

What is this 'Purple Cleaner'? Is it like a degreaser?


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## Lakeside53 (May 2, 2007)

Purple Cleaner is a water based degreaser / cleaner. Many names over here.. Castrol "super clean" was the origial.


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## kyle1! (May 2, 2007)

*You can't wait till next week!!!*

I have my 056Mag II in the same torn apart condition. Just rebuilt the oil pump with new seals. I have been  on how do I seal up the exhaust port for pressure testing. With no fabrication skills I figured I could drop off the stripped down unit at the local dealer to have the seals replaced regardless if they need it or not. Seals NLA  :censored: 

Keep the posts coming Lakeside us 056 owners can't wait.

Brian


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## Lakeside53 (May 2, 2007)

The easiest way to seal the exhaust side for pressure testing is to put a piece of rubber behind the muffler and tighten it down.

yep... the clutch side oil seal is going to get real hard to find soon... The oil pump drive spline has been NLA for a while now. I was just looking a the Stihl NW parts list... lot's of stuff vanishing for these old ladys..


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## Tzed250 (May 2, 2007)

I have brochures that still listed the 056 up into the '90s. I always thought it was a very cool saw. Keep us posted...


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## aggiewoodbutchr (May 2, 2007)

I got to get me one of them ultrasonic doodads!

opcorn:
opcorn:
opcorn:


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## 04ultra (May 2, 2007)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> I got to get me one of them ultrasonic doodads!
> 
> opcorn:
> opcorn:
> opcorn:





Andy talked me into a ultra sonic cleaner for carbs .. You can take a clean looking carb and put it in there in pieces and it will super clean it ..




.


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## Lakeside53 (May 2, 2007)

The ultrasonic cleaner I use for carbs is much smaller and cheap ($60). I couldn't live without one - haven't had to pull a welch plug cover since I started using it. The unit in the picture is a much bigger (and older) industrial unit - got it on ebay... I'll show more if it being used later - it's great for pre-paint cleaning of fine structrues like you get on recoil covers etc.


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## troutfisher (May 2, 2007)

Cool thread Andy, I just started an 045. It looks similar. I'm going to deck it, port it, maybe finger ports. I'm just expirimenting with mods.


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## Ductape (May 2, 2007)

Forgive me for being ignorant..... but how many cc's is an 056 mag? :monkey:


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## Al Smith (May 2, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> Hmmmm... more bubbles... Leaky seal.... Dang.. No longer available, but.. I still have some
> 
> [.


 Yep,good ole Stihl and all the rest of the German companys with their OEM stuff.:bang:


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## Lakeside53 (May 2, 2007)

troutfisher said:


> Cool thread Andy, I just started an 045. It looks similar. I'm going to deck it, port it, maybe finger ports. I'm just expirimenting with mods.




Yep.. sure looks familiar. You'll get big gains with the right muffler. I have three different types for the 056 alone.. I'll posts pics in a couple of days of each type - just bead-blasted the junk off them..

Add your stuff in this thread... it's all the same old problems..


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## Lakeside53 (May 2, 2007)

Ductape said:


> Forgive me for being ignorant..... but how many cc's is an 056 mag? :monkey:



056av - 81cc and 5.6hp
Super - 87cc and 6.1hp
Mag2 - 93.6cc and 6.8 hp.... SWEET!!!!!


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## Dennis Cahoon (May 2, 2007)

Lakeside......All that cleaning looks great, but no matter what, that old 056 is still a piece of $hit......Hahahahahahahaha!opcorn:


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## Lakeside53 (May 2, 2007)

....but it's MY POS  

Anyone else detect a streak of jealousy in Dennis??


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## Lakeside53 (May 2, 2007)

*O.k., so I tore it down...*

Nice and clean outside, but... the exhaust port showed a lot of carbon, and the piston crown wasn't great either. The cylinder looks great apart from a crust in the chamber.. It has EDTA (decarbonizer) in it right now and is soaking over night. The piston rings looked "tight". They were - carbon behind and in the ring grooves. And I really just needed a reason to take it apart...  







It's hard to clean out heavy concentration of carbon (over a 1/16 inch thick in this case) in the exhaust port without taking the cylinder off. Sure you can do it, but it gets inside... I use a 1/4 inch rotary wire brush in a drill. 5 minutes later - done... The build up in the corners was more like 1/8 inch each side... and starting to smear down the piston.


The piston crown - my favorite tool is a medium 3M pad in my die grinder - 30 seconds.. . Take it easy though - or use a green pad to be safe.







Now the ring grooves... take out the rings, and use an old broken 1.5mm ring with the end ground flat to scrape (carefully) the carbon out. PITA.. took me 30 minutes for both rings... I checked the rings in the bore. Both have end gaps of about 15 thou, which is mid life, but they'll work fine (for now). I could have taken it off, soaked it in EDTA etc, but I didn't.


Piston finished, rings refitted... and yes, I'm glad I took off the cylinder. The gasket is firmly stuck to the crankcase and real smooth, so a smear of Hylomar HPF on the old gasket and the cylinder can go back on. It's more polished that the picture may lead you to believe.







So... you're at a garage sale and spot a box of old 056 parts in the corner. The tag is missing. Without measuring the bore (hard on an 056 if it's on the saw) or trying to measure the cylinder bolt spacing, it's REALLY hard to figure out if you have a 52, 54mm or 56mm cylinder on your saw... here's a sure method for the 56mm Magnum cylinder - look for the bevels on the corners of the cylinder base. Also useful on Ebay...


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## RiverRat2 (May 3, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> Block off the oil outlet! I forgot, but got lucky - the pump stopped the various cleaners from getting into the oil tank...




Andy where did you get that big ultra sonic cleaner???
Ive never seen one that big!!!!!!


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## Lakeside53 (May 3, 2007)

Ebay... They come a lot bigger than mine!


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## RiverRat2 (May 3, 2007)

*Oh yeahh!!!!!*



Lakeside53 said:


> ....but it's MY POS
> 
> Anyone else detect a streak of jealousy in Dennis??


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## huskydave (May 3, 2007)

I am working on mine as well it's a magII. It is 94cc the mag and super are smaller Ducktape. I need to track down a module mine is cracked through to the inside. I am going to order one tonight. I lucked out on this one bigtime no endplay on the crank and tonnes of compression.I took about 10 pounds of sawdust off her too!


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## troutfisher (May 3, 2007)

Hey lake, looking into the intake I see a piece that hangs out into the cylinder. Is that a ring support?



Lakeside53 said:


>


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## Lakeside53 (May 3, 2007)

Yes, it supports the ring, but it's mainly put in to split the gas flow and cause some turbulence. You don't see it on today's Stihls.


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## fishhuntcutwood (May 3, 2007)

Well Andy, you've jumpstarted my interest in my MII in the garage. It's been sitting all through steelhead season, and after my pike trip, it'll be getting some attention.

Looking good my friend.

And is that yard picture from this year already? I've got lilac blooming, and my fruit trees are flowering thus far.

Jeff


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## Lakeside53 (May 3, 2007)

Yep.. get on it! I'll have a bunch of parts left over from mine, but you'll need to be quick!

yes, the garden was seconds after the preceding shots of the saw stuff... went outside, and the light was nice, so..


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## Lakeside53 (May 4, 2007)

*The rewind side...*

The original.. Spring gummed up, cord stiff as a rod, and and old lawn mower handle...








Pull all the parts off, drill out the Stihl label rivets, and into the dilute purple cleaner. O.k., I "cheat" a little with the ultrasonic cleaner, but you can get the same result with just more time and some hand work at end to pick out the resin and old junk from the metal grid.








Paint with stihl Polyurethane gray spray paint, bake in the convection oven for 20 minutes at 225F. Clean the spring - take it out of the retainer, clean the entire length and wind it back in. Clean the rope spool. Shot of Teflon lubricant, and reassemble. I put a used elastostart handle on from an 066. I figure after I advance the ignition slightly, I'll need it.












The Stihl lables are available, but make sure you also buy the metric rivets.


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## CaseyForrest (May 4, 2007)

Looks good Andy. Your patience and attention to detail is something I wish I had!!


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## THALL10326 (May 4, 2007)

*Wowowowow*

How in the hell did I miss this thread. First time I've looked at it. Great to see the "MASTER" in action. There are saw mechanics and then there are those who everyone looks up to as one of the very best, thats you Lakeside. Great work on that 056, I'm impressed. I'd rep ya but system won't let me yet but will as soon as it does. Great work there Andy, top notch 100%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Lakeside53 (May 4, 2007)

I'd have just used your Cuda if I was local, but...


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## THALL10326 (May 4, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> I'd have just used your Cuda if I was local, but...



Heck you got that saw just as clean as what the Cuda would do. I'm keeping a eye on this thread as you proceed with that saw. So keep them pics coming. This is more my kind of thread. Fun and playing is ok but sometimes its good to get real and learn something. Great job ole feller, keep it going...


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## SmokinDodge (May 5, 2007)

Good looking work Lake!

Do you have any trouble with the paint chipping when you are putting the saw together? I'm getting my 064 put together finally and I already have a few chips here and there. It's a work saw so it's no big deal but I would like to figure it out. The parts were washed in a 'Cuda like washer and wiped down with a tack rag right before paint. I put the parts on the top of the wood stove for a while in Feb. so they were cured.........

Also, is there a considerable amount of difference in plastic vs metal Stihl tags on the rewind housing? I got some from your neighbor and they were all plastic with nubs instead of rivits.

Advance the timing eh? Got a few mods happening?


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## Lakeside53 (May 5, 2007)

Yep.. I scratch my paint also.. I touch it up after wards, sometimes. This like all my rebuilds isn't a "restoration", but sometimes the condition is so bad you just have to paint it! Wait until you see the muffler(s).


I'd like a paint that is a durable as the original, and the same stuff Stihl puts on bars. Might have to get some real 2 part epoxy collor matched... The Stihl polyurethane is great, but it's not real resistent to gas until a month or two has passed, even if baked.


The metal or plastic tags are cheap. You just have to order the right one, and down to the county.. Mine even says "Made in Germany"...



No real mods... yet.. but there is a lot of "adjustment" room in the igntion


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## SmokinDodge (May 5, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> No real mods... yet.. but there is a lot of "adjustment" room in the igntion



 


Go for it, you know you want to.

:rockn: :rockn: :rockn:


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## 04ultra (May 5, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> No real mods... yet.. but there is a lot of "adjustment" room in the igntion






Hmmmmm......This could be interesting.........



.


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## fishhuntcutwood (May 5, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> The metal or plastic tags are cheap. You just have to order the right one, and down to the county.. Mine even says "Made in Germany"...




Very true. I got a handful of them. Even have one on my key chain.


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## Lakeside53 (May 5, 2007)

*Changing the seals...*

I've done a "few" in my time.. I even have all the fancy tools.. Piece of cake... maybe 15 minutes...

HA!!!! Clutch side seal - out in 3 minutes.. No biggie... Bit tight, really had to put a lot of side tension on, but out it came. The rubber was ROCK SOLID - no wonder it was leaking. Bad buildup of carbon sludge behind the seal, and all over the bearing, but the bearing is in fine shape. Hard to beat those steel-caged balls for longevity.








Notice that rubber on the seal just crumbled away.. bad..







Heck, may as well do the flywheel side. Seems a bit hard and it's bound to be packed with carbon sludge. 

Tap the seal in a little on 4 corners - it was real tight... Insert the fancy Stihl seal puller - bang, out the puller pops.. Hmmm.. Try again. Ditto... Tried a few more tricks, but that seal isn't going to budge. The rubber has gone rock hard and it's impossible to get a grip on the steel lip. No amount of notched screwdrivers, pullers, levers, or anything else would make it come out. 

Start digging, but be really careful - damage the crank or the case and it's all over.

I sharpened a tiny screwdriver into a knife, worked my way around the seal cutting the rubber away from the metal, and pulling out fragments. I needed to wear my binocular magnifiers. PITA... REALLY! And hour or so later I got enough of the rubber out so I could pull the spring, and then the rest of the rubber. Finally after three more tries I got the seal puller to get a grip and pull out the POS old seal. I needed beer...


I tried to turn the crank and it's locked up. GREAT!... But.. been there before - just crud in the bearings. Now I have to flush them out - forcing the crank will just damage the bearings. I used a Q-tip to wipe out the obvious carbon sludge (luckily it was "wet", not dried out or baked on). Then moved the piston to the top (Yes, I'd already put it back togther  ) to get the big end out of the way, and gently squirted circuit board cleaner/degreaser though the bearings from the outside. The saw was tilted so the excess immediately ran out of the inlet port, and didn't accumulate. Took a while but eventually it ran clear. I poured mix gas into the engine though the inlet port, and let it was though and out of both bearings. Yep, messy... Wiggle the crank at the same time and it came free. Nice and smooth rotation... and the bearings look as clean as new.


Grease the lips and tap in the new seal for the clutch side. The crank on the 056 is fat, so it's hard to find a socket that will work. A 15/16 spark plug socket with the rubber insert removed JUST made it for the clutch side, similarly a 13/16 spark plug socket for the flywheel side. The clutch side is set flush with the bearing; the flywheel side a 1/2mm or so lower than the casting.






Considering I have all the tools, it would have been easier to just to split the case, but seals are normally easy to do.. Total time - nearly two hours...


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## Lakeside53 (May 5, 2007)

fishhuntcutwood said:


> Very true. I got a handful of them. Even have one on my key chain.






All the required AS addict elements:

- Stihl tag on the keys
- AS post on the screen
- beer underway


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## fishhuntcutwood (May 5, 2007)

Can't deny it.

Hey, I'll be over your way end of May on my way East. Still working on the final plans, but if I have time, I'll stop by.


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## Lakeside53 (May 5, 2007)

The beer is in the shop fridge..


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## Ax-man (May 5, 2007)

Must be a spring thing this year fixing 056's, I just got into mine also before this thread popped up. I have also got a heck of a mess I hope it will be worth it in the end, the only reason I got into this one was I used to have a 056 Mag 2. 

Lake, can we back up a little to the part where you were cleaning out the ring grooves with an old ring. You mentioned to be very careful, I can understand this because you do not want to remove any metal in this area because it is so critical. Instead of using the old ring, what are your feeling about doing it chemically by letting the piston sit in a decarbonizer like Seafoam overnight to soften the carbon and using a small brush with nylon or brass bristles to into those grooves and get what you can out and then using a very fine grit sandpaper to finish. This is the way I do it as I don't have any old rings. This isn't my idea I got it off an internet site on engine rebuilding. The brushes and sandpaper are my addition to the process as the Seafoam works but requires a finish touch.

I have to say you are inspirational, I went and bought some of that Purple cleaner last night, have to see how good it works compared to what I have been using. I even got my wife a nicer convection oven for Christmas last year just so I could have our old one for part painting, now all I have to do is remember to order the paint when I am getting parts, seems to slip my mind.


Question about the rewind spring if you don't mind as I also have a few on different saws that the rewind is weak. Can the springs just lose there tensile where they just don't work right or is it the dirt and oil that gets into the coils that makes them not work the way they should ???? This is another area of a saw I would just as soon avoid, but on the same note a slow rewind or one that doesn't pull the cord all the in is more annoying.

You had to go and show a picture of a professional type seal puller, now your giving me the " I gotta have that tool "  

Larry


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## Lakeside53 (May 5, 2007)

I like chemical softening of the carbon prior to removal also. Like many things I do it's because I'm thinking "clock", and "this will be quick".. but I'm real picky on my own stuff so it always takes longer. Any type wire brush or sandpaper may do more damage than good. It is real easy to damage the groove shoulders (more important than the bottom with a scraper (another ring) but with care it's o.k.


Rewind springs - usually rusty or gummy. They won't loose tension unless they have been corroded. Take them out and "polish" clean. Don't put oil on them for lubricant as it just attracts dirt and gums up.


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## Lakeside53 (May 5, 2007)

*The muffler(s), part 1*

The 056 has had 3 different mufflers over time. I went though my box and found all three of them, one of each. 

Coked up, rusty, broken ears, dented.. look like junk. But, they are either no longer available, or, in the case of the only one you can get, $136.55, so they get saved.

They need to be degreased (soak in purple cleaner), ears repaired (braze on a washer, then re-drill and grind back to shape), dent's removed (various pounding and "adjustments") and then the rust needs to come off.. The BEST way is to glass bead blast them. If you don't have access to a bead blaster, soak them in Phosphoric acid (NOT Muriatic acid), then descale. Takes a while, but it will work - the ferrous oxide is converted to iron phosphate, but the iron is not touched. Get all the parts fitting again (trust me...), then paint with a muffler paint. I then bake mine for an hour or so at 500 (don't do this in the house...) to cure the paint and increase the temperature resistance to 1200F.



The earliest type vents just to the front. It was used on both the 045 and 056. There is at least one other type used on the 045 that I do not have. The cover to the right is just to show how it's vented to the outside - only the left three are part off the set. The outer shell had alread been painted prior, but the tab broke off








The next version vented only to the back. It shares the same BACK shell as the next version.







The final version as used on the Mag2 vents both to the front and the back. The front cover is additionally attached to to the rear with a tab/screw on top. The front cover is not the same as the earliest version, but it can be ground to fit.








Here is the same muffler after bead blasting.







NOTE: The inner vent shell is NOT the same as that used in the early version. They will not fit. if you are buying parts of mufflers, the best way to check is if the outer shell and the inner vent have a screw hole in the top (or if both DON'T have a screw hole), they will match. The right vented cover is the later version (both bead blasted).


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## Lakeside53 (May 5, 2007)

*The muffer(s), part 2*

painted....

yep, I squirt a light coat on the insids of all parts - just to stop any more rusting. Might not get used for a long time.

The Mag 2 parts:







All three. Just need spark screens.


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## fishhuntcutwood (May 5, 2007)

You do good work Andy.


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## Al Smith (May 5, 2007)

Say,on those gummied up rings,you would be surprised at just how well good old WD-40 does for softening the crude up a bit.I buy that stuff by the gallon ,along with massive rolls of duct tape.I've been accused of using bailing wire on occasion but I prefer to call it "universal fastener".


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## Lakeside53 (May 5, 2007)

*Tanks.. got plenty..*

Three tank to choose from. How hard can that be? All cleaned up - just choose the best paint and touch it up.








Hmmm... Closer inspection revels problem with ALL of them. I can already see one is missing carb studs. These pics show what you can get stuck with. Nothing that can't be repaired, but some are PITA to do.


If you see this type of wear marks on the outside of the carb housing, then there is a problem with one or more of the buffers.







In this case, it was BOTH rear buffers. The flywheel side mount is is slogged out - the case on the left is bad - the right is what it's supposed to be.








The clutch side had a busted screw. Real fun to get out.








Another tank : Looks o.k., but that's not a 5mm thread - more like the result of a 3/16 machine screw wound in. This is the tank with no carb screws - one has a bad thread. Great.. Time-sert time...








Continues:


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## Lakeside53 (May 5, 2007)

*Tanks continued*

Another tank has chain stikes. Not leaking, yet, but this needs JB weld and sanding...







Same tank - cracked thread on mount








So... I choose the tank without the carb mount bolts, fixed the threads, stole bolts from another tank, sanded off, painted and...











There is lots to go wrong with the 045/056 tanks. Many mount points - any can get cracked or broken, and there are many threads that can be damaged. Go over them carefully; it's real easy to miss something.

You can take the fuel tank portion from one assembly and match it up with the carb box side from another, but you'll need to replace the tank gasket. There are two different tank sides, but they only differ in the ground wire location. The gasket is available from Stihl.


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## Lakeside53 (May 6, 2007)

*Ignitions...*

I have three complete ignitions - 2 Bosch, 1 SEM, plus an additional SEM flywheel.


Here's the Bosch - The fan wheel is separate from the steel flywheel.








The SEM - one piece cast flywheel. 







The Bosch are failing all over.. typical symptom is no spark after a few seconds to few minutes of operation.

The SEM is basically the same model used on the TS 350/360 and 08 (late non-USA). Generally very reliable. 



A quick test of the ignitions on the saw showed the SEM to be bad (great, I just sold one..). Both Bosch ignitions produce spark, but I know one will only run for a minute. The ground wire insulation has disintegrated. This is very common and the first place to look if the saw won't produce any spark or if it intermittently cuts out. I cut the wire off near the module, joined a new wire and put two layers of heats shrink tubing over the joint.


Lining up the timing strike marks turned out to be meaningless as my module mark wasn't even close to the original. I set it in the middle of the range for now and will need to use a timing light/dial indicator to set it. 

Ignition installed I'd much rather had the SEM, but if the Bosch works, it will be fine.







Flywheel on and torqued down.








Fanwheel and air deflector installed.







Oh yes.. I also mated the tank to the crankcase. You need to do this before putting on the air defector or you won't be able to get the impulse line on. 

The ground wire that joins the crank case to the tank assembly is not wire - it's a braided copper material that withstands the continuous flexing and vibration. I make it from two pieces of solder wick twisted together, and heat shrink on top.


As part of this rebuild process, I'm replacing all the slot head screw (except those holding the tank togther and the fanwheel) with T27 torx. Someone will thank me on the next rebuild...


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## oneadam12 (May 7, 2007)

Looking Good


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## martrix (May 7, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> As part of this rebuild process, I'm replacing all the slot head screw (except those holding the tank togther and the fanwheel) with T27 torx. Someone will thank me on the next rebuild...




Looking good Lake. 


Are those T27 screws the same as the hex screws on my 051? M5 0.9 pitch?

Would I be able to get them in Australia without going through a dealer?

I'd love to use the T27 screws when I put my 051 back together......


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## Al Smith (May 7, 2007)

Good idea on the torx screws .That was one of the downfalls of the 042/048 where they used slotted screws to hold the crankshaft halves together.I myself use either torx or socket head .Either one is better than a slotted screw.


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## Lakeside53 (May 7, 2007)

martrix said:


> Looking good Lake.
> 
> 
> Are those T27 screws the same as the hex screws on my 051? M5 0.9 pitch?
> ...




The T27 can replace both the hex and the slotted screws. They are in many lengths, 4mm, 5mm and 6mm, with corresponding pitches. I'm pretty sure the M5 is 0.8 pitch. The heads are taller but it didn't make any diffference on the 056 - just be aware of it when replacing slotted head bolts.

I don't think you can get them anywhere except from Stihl. I've looked... and wish I could find some... You can get them used from anyone that breaks saws apart. Your Stihl dealer might have a bucket of used bolts.


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## Lakeside53 (May 7, 2007)

Al Smith said:


> Good idea on the torx screws .That was one of the downfalls of the 042/048 where they used slotted screws to hold the crankshaft halves together.I myself use either torx or socket head .Either one is better than a slotted screw.





I know you mean "Crankcase"


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## sILlogger (May 7, 2007)

whenever u split a crankcase and do a repaint. do u paint the inside of the crankcase? i'm thinking about buying a 660 crankcase and building me a saw...don't know how feasible it would be, but it would be a good tinkering project.


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## Pablo26 (May 7, 2007)

Great work! Can't wait to see the finished product, that is going to be an awesome saw!


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## Lakeside53 (May 7, 2007)

sILlogger said:


> whenever u split a crankcase and do a repaint. do u paint the inside of the crankcase? i'm thinking about buying a 660 crankcase and building me a saw...don't know how feasible it would be, but it would be a good tinkering project.



No.. The paint on the orginal is power coat, and the polyurethane wouldn't stay on the inside.


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## Lakeside53 (May 7, 2007)

*Oil pump drive and clutch.*

Uneventful.... 


Mounted the oil pump drive gears:






The clutch drum (behind the clutch) - 3/8 8T - rim type. They sure built those clutch parts strong.. No slop or wear at all.






Recoil side cover on - and hey, I have spark!







Next.. problems.. Top covers...


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## SmokinDodge (May 8, 2007)

Lookin mighty fine there Lake!


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## THALL10326 (May 8, 2007)

*Great job*

I'm watching your whole job Lake and its a great thread. Threads like this are makes this site so valuable to many. Keep it going ole feller, you got a good one going there, fine craftsmanship my man, fine indeed...


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## manual (May 8, 2007)

Hmmmm, Ok You are doing a fine job 1st time I seen this thread.
I like the part on the oil pump drive gears.
Poly paint is a strong paint when it cures.
What type of muffler paint is that, I use a 1200* paint.
Sure do like that seal puller, I put it on my, Gots to have list.


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## Lakeside53 (May 9, 2007)

I use Duplicolor DH1602 - really good long lasting muffler paint. baking it in the oven helps the heat resistence - it's rated to 1200F.


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## Lakeside53 (May 9, 2007)

*The top handles...*

I have a few... The problem with choosing an 056 as a project is that it was the backbone of serious logging in the PNW, and most got really used and used and then used up... and many got fixed with duct tape and bailing wire.. hey, Al was here... 








They all have problems. Some minor (can be fixed), some cosmetic (edges broken, paint scratched up, names engraved into them), and some major - mount posts broken, serious cracks..). 


Additionally, there's several different variations - all fit, but... The latest can be identified by a small guard by the trigger, and insert in the guard handle left mount, and other minor changes - like the inclusion of threaded hole on the right side to mount a heat defector to warm the carb air. Of course I want the latest verison that matches the Mag 2...


Switch guard - useful.. it is nice to not to flip the switch off while you're in the cut..







The front mount gets slogged out and busts of the tab on the left hand guard mount. The later version also had the option of a chain break, so they put a steel insert into the hand guard mount. You can modify the earlier versions the same way - need to source those inserts though.









I have one that has a bad crack at the handle mount (very common) and a screw that has the head broken off. I'll tackle that one... I want to try powder coating the entire handle so that rules out using epoxy for the repair - it will need to be welded. First get the screw out. For some reason these two top handle mount screws are always hard to undo and get corroded into the casting. They are also screwed in 25mm - long way for a 5mm Allen head.







First.. drilled the screw about 1/2 inch with a cobalt drill bit, soaked it for two days in penetrating oil, and tried an easy-out. No joy... just going to break off the easy-out. 

Propane on the casting - heat it up real hot.. tried the easy-out again - nope...

I was pretty much on-center with ,my drilling, so I drilled the hole to almost full depth of the screw, then drilled it again with larger bit. Sometimes this helps. Not in my case AND the end of the drill (tip only) broke of in the hole.. no more drilling..


Next toy.... These are supposed to be used for woodworking to extract screws. I'll drill a core around the outside of the screw, plug it and make a new thread.


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## Lakeside53 (May 9, 2007)

*Handles continued*

The closest one I had was 5/16 on the outer dimension. Slightly big, but...


Start by using it in reverse until it make a groove to guide, then you can go forward and start cutting, You'll need to stop every few seconds and blow out the shavings - there's no way to clear chips. Go slow...

Here it is just started:








5 minutes later - DONE.. 














The 5/16 hole is the exact size required for a 3/8-16 tap. I cleaned it up with a drill bit first, then taped the hole and was going to run a die down a piece of 3/8 aluminum rod to make a plug. I could have put an in thread insert BUT I can't assume it was on center, so this is the easiest way. Red loctite or spot weld will keep it in place.


I degreased the crack, stop drilled it, ground it all out to a v and got it all ready to take it to my buddy for a quick weld with his real nice Miller MIG



UH OH...



Crap happens... Not sure what the problem was, but... Next time I'll get the handles TIG welded..








Stop while I'm "ahead.".. It looks worse than it really is. I can still fix this nicely with epoxy, but can't go the powder coat route.. sigh... where is my second handle candidate..



Well... something good came out of the day... traded a couple of the refurbished mufflers and some other parts for a NOS side cover, with brake!!!!


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## Tzed250 (May 9, 2007)

That is going to be a very nice saw when you are done...wish it were mine...keep us posted!


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## Big feller (May 9, 2007)

Good work!

It looks as though that chainbrake cover uses two studs the same length. The last one I bought needed a longer stud at the rear. Any thoughts which is newer and if there are significant differences inside?


Good to see pictures of the different mufflers. I have been meaning to post a question about those. It looks as though the one that is only piped to the rear - presumably the "fire safe" model - is more strangled than the 045 and early 056 unit with a hole at the base. I would like to hear Dean's take on whether there are significant gains on an 056 Super by changing or modifying muffler parts.

Bad luck with the handle. Is it aluminium or has it a significant magnesium content? Looks like the latter from what happened.

Looking forward to the next installment.

Big feller.


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## Lakeside53 (May 9, 2007)

I could have got one of those "long stud in rear" NOS type of covers, but the one I got is the latest. It looked to me that that your type was much more restrictive on chip clearance. I have a contact at Stihl that knows about these things - I'm going to ask him about your type of cover.

It an aluminum alloy.. I figure it just got too hot and then the wind (yep, welding outside) blew away the argon. 


Yes, the pipe to the rear is the so called "fire-safe" version and the dual port is only supposed to be used in conjunction with the -501 muffler spikes, presumably to keep the wood a safe distance from the muffler exhaust. All the Mag2 had the dual port (reallly loud)mufflers.


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## Dan Forsh (May 9, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> The T27 can replace both the hex and the slotted screws. They are in many lengths, 4mm, 5mm and 6mm, with corresponding pitches. I'm pretty sure the M5 is 0.8 pitch. The heads are taller but it didn't make any diffference on the 056 - just be aware of it when replacing slotted head bolts.
> 
> I don't think you can get them anywhere except from Stihl. I've looked... and wish I could find some... You can get them used from anyone that breaks saws apart. Your Stihl dealer might have a bucket of used bolts.



Definitely a pain to get hold of but "Torx" are a copyrighted product of Textron I think.

If you are talking about Torx in general (not sure if you are) but try taking a Renault apart without Torx drivers.... you'll just about manage to get the wipers off.


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## sILlogger (May 9, 2007)

lakeside, u got any basketcase 660's?


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## Lakeside53 (May 9, 2007)

Sure would be nice to find a source that wasn't just Stihl... Maybe someone in Europe has place to look?


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## Lakeside53 (May 9, 2007)

sILlogger said:


> lakeside, u got any basketcase 660's?



Sorry.... not right now. They are never really basket cases anyhow..  Anything can be fixed - it's just a matter of how much money needs to get spent on them.


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## 04ultra (May 9, 2007)

*Andy hit 10,000*





        






.


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## Lakeside53 (May 9, 2007)

groan..I need [another] life.:help: :help: :help:


I think Ultra's stalking me...


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## martrix (May 9, 2007)

oooh, nice blow-out with the welding. Doh!:help: Looks a bit like Terminator 3 after being hit with a shot gun. 

Pity it wont morph back into shape on its own.

Keep it comin'.opcorn:


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## Al Smith (May 9, 2007)

Say,on that aluminum,die cast or straight,you have to have the metal perfectly clean,phsically and chemically.Any little tiny amount of grease,oil ,paint etc. will make it nearly impossible to weld with either MIG or TIG.I personally find the stuff a pain in the back sides to repair.


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## Lakeside53 (May 9, 2007)

Yep... I did degrease it, trim all the paint and old oxidized metal off etc, but... 

I've seen some awful looking welding on 056 top covers, but I won't be so quick to criticize in the future..

I need [want] to buy a TIG and practice, practice practice.. yep...


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## Dennis Cahoon (May 9, 2007)

Lakeside said:


> Crap happens... Not sure what the problem was, but... Next time I'll get the handles TIG welded..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Lakeside53 (May 10, 2007)

Nice work..  easy (o.k., easier) if it's not paper thin crap cast AL! I can show you worse... every tried to weld mag with alluminum wire? lololol

Did you ever get that thing cutting wood?


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## Big feller (May 10, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> Ever tried to weld mag with alluminum wire? lololol



Yup...not a pretty sight! - that's why I asked.


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## Al Smith (May 10, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> Nice work..  easy (o.k., easier) if it's not paper thin crap cast AL! I can show you worse... every tried to weld mag with alluminum wire? lololol
> 
> Did you ever get that thing cutting wood?


 Don't get me wrong,I can't weld dirty aluminum worth a hoot .Steel,cast iron and stainless are another subject though.Lucky for me I've got a buddy who owns a welding shop,darned good man on aluminum and mag. but a lousey electrician.A little horse trading ,ya know.Hmm,which reminds me,I still have to hook up a speed control for him on one of his overhead cranes,oops.

I can do tolerable on clean aluminum .It's just one of those deals that you will never get good at unless you do it often.


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## Big feller (May 10, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> Sure would be nice to find a source that wasn't just Stihl... Maybe someone in Europe has place to look?



Just found a place in Canada that lists Fillister head Torx and advertises it specialises in locating hard to find fasteners:

http://www.oemhardware.ca/oempdf/TORX SCREW SIZES.pdf



Back to welding the top handle - I think I would favour oxy- acetylene and braze with a slightly lower melting point rod. Should still be possible with what you have - if you don't mind a few minutes filing.


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## Lakeside53 (May 10, 2007)

I'm not sure these are the same fasteners, but I'll check them out tonight when I get back from work. Thanks!


I have some HT2000 Aluminum alloy rod for brazing... Still very tricky on these thin cast sections. Does work real well though on Alumiinum extrusions!

Couldn't be much worse than what happened


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## Lakeside53 (May 10, 2007)

Al Smith said:


> Don't get me wrong,I can't weld dirty aluminum worth a hoot .Steel,cast iron and stainless are another subject though.Lucky for me I've got a buddy who owns a welding shop,darned good man on aluminum and mag. but a lousey electrician.A little horse trading ,ya know.Hmm,which reminds me,I still have to hook up a speed control for him on one of his overhead cranes,oops.
> 
> I can do tolerable on clean aluminum .It's just one of those deals that you will never get good at unless you do it often.





Yep.. Buddies... Mines not the best welder on Al, but... the price was right :monkey:


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## Dennis Cahoon (May 10, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> I have some HT2000 Aluminum alloy rod for brazing... Still very tricky on these thin cast sections. Does work real well though on Alumiinum extrusions!
> 
> Couldn't be much worse than what happened




Lakeside,

Get out of the wind, you're blowing away your anert gas[argon], tig weld it, but try mag rod. It also has to be super clean. A good tig welder should be able to stack dimes on that handle. opcorn:


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## Dan Forsh (May 10, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> Sure would be nice to find a source that wasn't just Stihl... Maybe someone in Europe has place to look?



here's a list of licensed suppliers


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## Al Smith (May 10, 2007)

Dennis Cahoon said:


> Lakeside,
> 
> Get out of the wind, you're blowing away your anert gas[argon], tig weld it, but try mag rod. It also has to be super clean. A good tig welder should be able to stack dimes on that handle. opcorn:


 That is a fact for any gas enclosed arc,steel,Mag,aluminum Stainless.Another thing I might point out,not be a smart a$$ but just general info.Any time you "Dip" in and out of the gas shield with the filler rod you bring in outside oxegon into the mix.This causes"sugar" in the weld .Many folks try to "walk" the filler rod and raise the tig torch like it was a flame,doesn't work in this case.Similar to gas weld but different.Like I said,a learned art.

My problem is due to the fact the material doesn't change colors much as it reaches fusion so a weld and a burn through are pretty close for me.


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## Lakeside53 (May 10, 2007)

Thanks guys- good input. I have seem some good "stacked" dimes on these handles, so I know it can be done. I don't have the experience, so now I need to find someone that does.. at a reasonable price.


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## Lakeside53 (May 10, 2007)

*Paints....*

O.K.... So the originals are power-coated.. yep, real tough, tricky to color match, can't use epoxy or acrylic fillers for surface defects or epoxy for repairs, but...

I use the Stihl Polyurethane paint for most restorations and touch-ups, but... Real nice finish, immediate drying, moderately tough after a few months (even when baked), but easy to damage if you intend to use the saw before then. Also, until really cured, gas resistance isn't great.


What about auto paints? My truck paint is really tough... and gas resistant. Sure, more prep is more involved, but who care for a "now and then" project saw.

Anyone been down this path??


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## Al Smith (May 11, 2007)

I really don't have any idea of what would be the toughest paint.Some type epoxy I suppose.In my case most of my restorations are painted OSHA safety yellow.I restore them,snap a bunch of pictures then over a period of time ,wear all the paint off again,by use.

Laquer would be much tougher than enamel of course but the laquer thinner would "lift" all the enamel residue left behind. As far as epoxies,the white portion of that Stihl most likely wouldn't be hard to match but the orange may present a challange.


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## Lakeside53 (May 11, 2007)

I was thinking auto paint as the original Stihl "paint" is power coat and unaffected by just about anything... Would likely need a primer...

What make auto paint so tough?


In "off the shelf" paints I had more trouble finding a decent match for the Stihl gray (it's definitely gray, not white). There are many "oranges" that come close... but Stihl has chaned the actual color quite a bit over the years.


Hey AL - don't you ever sleep?


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## Dan Forsh (May 11, 2007)

I've lifted this from a post on another site

_The Stihl RAL-numbers for example: 

the old white: RAL 7035 
the old red: RAL 3000 "fire red" 
orange: RAL 2004 
new white: RAL 9010_

I've had both grey and orange mixed in autopaint before now. I just took a decent part with me, picked the closest I could find from their colour charts and had it mixed. When I first read the above info I was interested to see how close I'd come with the stuff I'd had mixed. Sure enough my mixed white was RAL 9010.

I don't know if the guy posting this was stating it as correct, or just his opinion of what was closest to Stihl colours.

Either way, I've been happy with the stuff I've had made up. It sprays wells and dries quick. I don't know on the longevity and have noticed it can sometimes chip easy around edges.

RAL codes are international aren't they?


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## Lakeside53 (May 18, 2007)

*Spun bearings.. a "fix"*

Needed parts.. Busted down another 056 crankcase today... but it turned out to be an 045... never mind...

Found something interesting. This saw had spun its clutch side bearing and slogged out the case. Pushing the crank out of an 056/045 almost always results in the bearings staying with the crank. 

The last guy spot welded the bearing outer race in four spots (two shown), making just enough of a scar to grab the case, and put some type of sealer goop in the case, and pushed it all back together... Yep... the bearing won't spin in the case any more. Looks like it worked for years after wards!








Another way to look at this is - how you you like to get that one for a project saw...???



The project will continue in a few days.. got held up with the top handle problem, but inherited (free) another 056 Super and a bunch of cases... Might even have enough for two saws now. 


I've also been researching the NOS parts and where to get them.. I did find a BRAND NEW 056Mag2 model plate , but only one


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## SmokinDodge (May 18, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> Another way to look at this is - how you you like to get that one for a project saw...???



Ouch.

If the rest of the case is worth while (kinda doubt it though) a decent machinist should be able to bore the case and fit a sleeve to hold the bearing.

My .02 which is free tonight!


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## Lakeside53 (May 18, 2007)

Not worth it for an 045... 056 and 056S Cases with bad cranks/bearings are easy to find... I have a really nice 056Mag 2 case.. so nice that I might just take the case of my exisiting saw and swap the cranks.. but first it's going to run! 


Here's another little problem that very common in 045's and 056's - the case breaks out where the dogs mount because they get the crap beat out of them when the dogs are loose! PITA to fix well.. I spent two hours just studying the problem on an 056S today...hmmm...


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## RiverRat2 (May 18, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> Needed parts.. Busted down another 056 crankcase today... but it turned out to be an 045... never mind...
> 
> Found something interesting. This saw had spun its clutch side bearing and slogged out the case. Pushing the crank out of an 056/045 almost always results in the bearings staying with the crank.
> 
> ...


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## Lakeside53 (May 18, 2007)

*Is it????*

Seattle craigslist today - 056 Magnum2, excellent condition - $300


http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/tls/333736459.html


Hmmm... Looks beat to crap to me, and the model plate may say M2, but the top cover is from an 045, and it doesn't have the M2 muffler.. Nice mod to the air box.. I'm betting it's an older 045..


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## spacemule (May 29, 2007)

How's it coming?


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## Lakeside53 (May 29, 2007)

Lot's of pics of tricky repairs to post... soon...

I do have all the tech notes (1983 to 1990) scanned, but they are too big to post, even at reduced quality. If anyone want them, PM me..


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## Dennis Cahoon (May 30, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> I do have all the tech notes (1983 to 1990) scanned, but they are too big to post, even at reduced quality. If anyone want them, PM me..



Hahahahahahaha!.....No thanks Lakeside!


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## Lakeside53 (May 30, 2007)

I send you a copy anyhow Dennis - just to clog up your mailbox:biggrinbounce2:


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## Lakeside53 (May 30, 2007)

*Some crankcase repairs.. part 1*

These repairs aren't on my Mag2 - they are on a Super - but are typical of what happens on many 045/056 you buy.

1) The dog mounts break out. The mag2 has much beefier mounts so you'll find this damage mainly on the other versions of the 045 and 56.

2) The crankcases crack on the flywheel side up near the top left recoil cover mount screw. The crack progress around the housing (basically tracking the flywheel) until it fails completely.

Dennis will die laughing, but it is possible to make a repair using epoxy that will last forever, and look good..

There are many types of epoxy... I use JB weld because it is very strong, has a long pot life and an extended "putty" state (mold it with your finger after two hours). It's also rated at 500F continuous, and 600F intermittent. Most consumer epoxies are 250-300F, which is not enough when you are close to the muffler.. the 5-15 minute epoxies are NOT high temp or strong.


A couple of points about epoxy - It MUST be mixed in the exact proportions required. Any mis-match on the resins and the excess will remain uncured forever as honeycombed particles in a lattice of the hardened product. This is weaker, makes for poor adhesion and can cause problem when exposed to heat. I'm making structural parts, so this is is really important. Eyeballing the amounts isn't sufficient. 

I use one of two methods - mix the entire two tubes, or, use a postage scale and mix half. In the case of JB weld, the proportions are 1:1, and the products both weigh the exact same amount (1 oz per tube). I occasionally mix a small amount using measuring spoons, but it's often less than satisfactory.


The second issue is mixing. Epoxy must be mixed completely. Mix, scrape, mix, scrape, mix, mix and mix... Clean off the mixing tool several times and mix again... There's plenty of time, so don't rush.. let it sit for 10-15 minutes, then mix again.


and.. expoy won't adhere to oil or grease... so degrease all parts several times and use a die grinder or whatever to prepare the surface to virgin metal.



So.. lets fix a few parts...


The case dog mounts:

Epoxy is strong, but not particularly good when it has movement or stress applied to it from a harder material - it will abrade rapidly. Dogs and the mounting bolts are a high stress point. I've seen many mounts "repaired" by simply epoxying in the bolts. Not good on an 056 as you now need to take the muffler off to take the dog off... I like to put things back as they were designed.


One solution is to sleeve the bolt, and use a stainless washer on the dog side. This give metal-on-metal for the dog bolts to mount though, and a metal surface for the dog to mount on. I used a small flanged brass sleeve cut down and drilled for the 6mm mount bolts. Mine were just from the junk drawer, and in this case they came from the MS200t vent kits. Most Stihl shops will have dozens of them as they aren't used once the kit is installed. 


Here's the bad bottom mount (super 2):







What it's supposed to look like (mag 2) - note the extra strengthening ribs on the Mag2:







Sleeve pushed though top hole to figure depth. I've already ground back the case and cleaned out the junk. The sleeve depth required is about 5.5mm. Many cases are slogged out to the point where there is a lot less, so build it back up.







The parts ready to install:







In the bottom mount hole before epoxy. It's tricky to get the elevation correct when there is no reference section left, but with a little care and fiddling, it all come together. I'm using the 6mm hex bolt as a pattern. Note that the head is covered in food wrap...









Continues..


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## Lakeside53 (May 30, 2007)

*crankcase repairs continued*

Here's both mounts setting up.. The white blocks near the top mount is a plastic eraser cut and jambed in to make an epoxy dam. Works great...








Epoxy cured... The sleeve in the top mount 







Bottom mount:







All togther:







A tiny amount of filing/sanding, and some paint, and it would look even better, but for this saw I don't care. It will be covered in filth in no time..


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## Lakeside53 (May 30, 2007)

*Crack repair*

I found this crack when I was cleaning off the saw to repair the mounts.. It looks bad, but it is really hard to see. Tapping the case parts and listening for a 'tinny" sound is a good way to find cracks..






It's important to stop-drill (drill a small hole at the end of the crack) any crack. If you don't, it will just continue.






Just smearing epoxy over the crack isn't strong enough. I reinforce the epoxy with stainless steel screen. It bends easily so you can form it to the required curves. I do clean out the crack (open it slightly AFTER stop-drilling) and apply a small amount of epoxy into it.






I make the mesh parts first, apply a coat of epoxy, then press the mesh into it. More epoxy follows.







Done and set. A quick coat of paint and you'd barely be able to tell if it was repaired.









The JB Weld is thick, but it WILL move until it sets up. You need to monitor the movement every 10 minutes or so and re-orient the repair so it flows back. Once it's more putty-like, you can tap it back with your finger.


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## Lakeside53 (May 30, 2007)

*And.. something a little more challenging*

Remember this??? grrr... Well... time to fix it.







Rebuilding with epoxy can restore the shape, much of the strength, but for threads (in this particular case) it will just slog out. The 056 handle mounts are a high stress points that give out in the original mag, so we'll fix that with some decent backing material.

A quick grind with a carbide burr to remove all the old weld (attempt) junk, cut up some T6061 bar stock, and epoxy in an insert to take the top thread. The bottom thread has already been bored out to take a 3/8-16 insert which I made out of some rod stock. 







Stainless mesh for strength - there's a couple more small pieces to add after this. The white blocks are a rubber dam siting on the fake handle insert made of nylon (you could use anything and cover it with plastic food wrap).








Epoxy set up..






A little file and sand work and it's ready for paint...


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## Tzed250 (May 31, 2007)

Nice methods and technique...


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## RiverRat2 (May 31, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> I found this crack when I was cleaning off the saw to repair the mounts.. It looks bad, but it is really hard to see. Tapping the case parts and listening for a 'tinny" sound is a good way to find cracks..
> 
> 
> It's important to stop-drill (drill a small hole at the end of the crack) any crack. If you don't, it will just continue.
> ...



Andy is that crack on a non fuel charge area and was heading that direction or merely on the dog support area,,, and on the bronze bushing did you make it on the lathe o did you buy it off the shelf??? would a cylinder shroud bushing been long enough????


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 1, 2007)

Not sure what you mean but "non-fuel charge area...".. The crack I showed was on the recoil side of the crankcase near the front top recoil cover mount hole.


The bushing is like is said in the post - just the spare part from the MS200T vent kit, cut off to 5.5mm and the drilled out a tad. No lathe work. You might be able to find a shroud bushing (hollow rivet) that was the correct size - I didn't have one though.


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## RiverRat2 (Jun 1, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> Not sure what you mean but "non-fuel charge area...".. The crack I showed was on the recoil side of the crankcase near the front top recoil cover mount hole.
> 
> 
> The bushing is like is said in the post - just the spare part from the MS200T vent kit, cut off to 5.5mm and the drilled out a tad. No lathe work. You might be able to find a shroud bushing (hollow rivet) that was the correct size - I didn't have one though.



An area of the crank case that will not affect case pressure/vacumn or how the unit runs would be a non fuel charge area,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, like a starter or felling dawg mounting area!!! sorry I was not more clear,,,,,,

R2'ed


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 1, 2007)

Yes.. not a pressure area... never have seen a crack in those parts.


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 9, 2007)

*carb boxes*

Here's the original for the 056 and 056 super, and the factory mod to the carb box for the Mag2. It's the same molding - just cut after.








My nice new box on the left will soon have cut-outs like that on the right.


I often see carb air-boxes with a lot of holes drilled in the sides - that was NOT factory. Seems like one major store out here did that and several copied it, some nicely and others not.


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## RiverRat2 (Jun 9, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> I often see carb air-boxes with a lot of holes drilled in the sides - that was NOT factory. Seems like one major store out here did that and several copied it, some nicely and others not.




Do you feel the additional holes help,,, Andy????

Are you going to add any to yours????? :monkey: 

Just kidding!!!!!!!!  

Its going to look sweet when your done!!!!!!!!!!  

Im supposed to have a Mag II located awaiting Pics,,,


----------



## Lakeside53 (Jun 9, 2007)

*Handles...*

Restoration with a non-wrap handle is easy.. just find one and it will fit.






Wrap is another problem. I have found at least 4 different wrap handles made in both steel and aluminum, and variations within those. Most wrap handles I see have had the clutch side bottom cut off to simplify the changing of chains etc. 

Here's two - light weight aluminum to the left, steel to the right. Both have been "hacked off" on the clutch side.






Lightweight aluminum. Real light, wimpy, but easy to bend back into shape Same diameter as an older 028 type handle. The is some chance these all came from older 045's.. 

Steel: The water gets trapped behind the rubber and rusts. They are HEAVY, but certainly strong.. I had to use a hydraulic jack to spread one.

Here's a heavy gauge and thicker tube aluminum full wrap mounted on my 056M2 project. It has the -1901 mount/chain catcher (details to follow).








And... that rough looking Steel handle in the pic above "restored" (sand-blasted, painted, new rubber, new mount) and mounted on an 056Super.







Bottom clutch-side AV mounts/ chain catcher... 4 different mounts, 3 different sizes and matched to three different handles. If you buy an "ebay" wrap handle for an 045/056, you may have some work to do. None of these are now available from Stihl - but some NOS is around...







The -1900 mount/chain catcher is only found on the 045, but you'll often see handles advertised as 045/056.. sure.. with the right mount block.

The -1901 was the first 056 mount/chain catcher. It's similar to the -1901, but wider to get the rubber AV mount away from the chip path and side cover. The handle was shortened laterally on the bottom. Both the -1900 and -1901 get really beat up by the chain that that exposes an M6 screw head. Chains don't like steel screw heads...


Then came the -4400.. Nice simple bracket, cheap to make, BUT it's HEAVY GAUGE STEEL. Nice.. throw a chain and wham... steel on a square steel edge. 

O.K.... the LAST version made is the -4401. It mounts between the muffler and the dog, wraps low under the cover and meets up with the handle. It's heavy gauge aluminum alloy. Better on the chains but... you can now also mount the nylon chain catcher 1117-656-7700 (you can see it on the 056 super pic above). This new mount adds about 1/4 inch to the gap than than the -1901 or 4400.. another minor variation of the handle.

continues..


----------



## Lakeside53 (Jun 9, 2007)

*Handles... contimued*

Here's the -1901 on my Mag2






and the 1117 chain catcher on the Super:








It should be possible to just bend out the handle a little to accommodate the width of the 4401.. sure... the weld on the top shroud stub is really weak.. and you need to bend relative to the stub - not move it. 


WRONG! Hmmm... Ignore the tiny scraps of epoxy on the handle - that was a fleeting thought... In this case there were a bunch of bends to take out - not just trying to make it work with the -4401. 

This pic is as I'm putting it back together...







It's a real PITA... trying to get three bent parts to fit...

First straighten the handle so it fits both ends... Lot's of careful twists and tweaks. Heat wasn't an option as I wanted the original rubber. Then mount both ends to the saw, and attach the stub to the top shroud.






Pop the handle onto the stub, cut a hole in the handle top, drill a suitable hole for M6 thread into the stub, and thread it...







Apply JB weld to the stub, screw the degreased M6 bolt though the handle and into the stub; tighten. Push some backer foam into the handle hole on top, both sides of the bolt, and fill with JB weld. A little file, sand and paint.. The result is real nice, strong and is on the 056M2 saw in the prior post.


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 9, 2007)

*Oh Yeah!!!!!!*

Thanks to my buddy at Cheapstihlsawparts... I now have a NOS MAGNUM2 model tag!!


----------



## RiverRat2 (Jun 9, 2007)

*Sweet!!!!!*

she's looking good Andy!!!!!! opcorn: opcorn: opcorn:


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 9, 2007)

The "looking good" is the easy part. It's figuring out all these little twists and turns over 20 years ago that's the fun...


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## RiverRat2 (Jun 9, 2007)

*Yeah but!!!!*

It shows you've done your home work,,,,,,,

Is there anything you dont do well??????? Like forget to take out the garbage or something??????


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 9, 2007)

You've been talking to my wife, again!!!


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## RiverRat2 (Jun 9, 2007)

*Ha ha ha!!!*



Lakeside53 said:


> You've been talking to my wife, again!!!



Check your PM's


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## 16gauge (Jun 10, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> The "looking good" is the easy part. It's figuring out all these little twists and turns over 20 years ago that's the fun...



Dear Lakeside,

This is the most informative post I have ever seen on this fine site. Thank you Lake. You clearly know your stuff. I agree about the value of JB Weld. Also, the product known as Liquid Thread has worked very well for me for an aluminum application on an old Johnson 50 HP outboard (the throttle rocker). It saved the old motor for less than five bucks. I still have the old BM&T. Keep having fun and sharing with us.


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## Dennis Cahoon (Jun 10, 2007)

Hey Lakeside.....You gonna pawn this patched up JBweld saw off on some poor sap on Ebay?....You should be able to get $250 or $300 if they don't find out it's all JBweld.....Hahahahahaha! opcorn:


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## spacemule (Jun 10, 2007)

Dennis Cahoon said:


> Hey Lakeside.....You gonna pawn this patched up JBweld saw off on some poor sap on Ebay?....You should be able to get $250 or $300 if they don't find out it's all JBweld.....Hahahahahaha! opcorn:


What's the matter Dennis? Does the jb weld look better than your work?


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## RiverRat2 (Jun 10, 2007)

*BRAAAAAhahahahahah!!!!*



spacemule said:


> What's the matter Dennis? Does the jb weld look better than your work?


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## Dennis Cahoon (Jun 10, 2007)

Hey Spacemule....You and RiverRat should go in together and buy that 056JBweld special.....cause it looks soooooooogood.....Hahahahahahaha! :monkey: :monkey:


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## RiverRat2 (Jun 10, 2007)

*Hey Dennis,,,,, That would be*



Dennis Cahoon said:


> Hey Spacemule....You and RiverRat should go in together and buy that 056JBweld special.....cause it looks soooooooogood.....Hahahahahahaha! :monkey: :monkey:



056 MagII JBWeldSpecial!!!!!!!!! Brrrrrahahahahahahaha


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## Dennis Cahoon (Jun 11, 2007)

RiverRat2 said:


> 056 MagII JBWeldSpecial!!!!!!!!! Brrrrrahahahahahahaha




It even has JBWelded handle bars......Brrrrrrahahahahahahaha!


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## artie__bc (Jun 11, 2007)

Hey Lakeside, I tried to PM you but it said you're out of space.


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## RiverRat2 (Jun 11, 2007)

*Just like that ehhh???*



artie__bc said:


> Hey Lakeside, I tried to PM you but it said you're out of space.



Hes out of space all right,,,,,,,


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## artie__bc (Jun 11, 2007)

I suppose it's everyone wondering where they can get that "JB Weld stuff" by the bucket full! but seriously it has its place. We have plenty of JB repairs up at the mine where I take care of the machinery. It's great for noncritical things like filling wear grooves on shafts where seal lips ride and stuff like that.


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 11, 2007)

Dennis Cahoon said:


> Hey Lakeside.....You gonna pawn this patched up JBweld saw off on some poor sap on Ebay?....You should be able to get $250 or $300 if they don't find out it's all JBweld.....Hahahahahaha! opcorn:



I'll put a reserve of $301 on it to keep you out of the winning... and by the time I sell it it will come with 4 spare handles. In anycase, almost all the major JB repair stuff is on the Super, and I swapped that back to the orginal owner for a truck of gravel ($330 plus tax out here), so I guess I did o.k. :monkey:


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 12, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> The -1900 mount/chain catcher is only found on the 045, but you'll often see handles advertised as 045/056.. sure.. with the right mount block.
> 
> The -1901 was the first 056 mount/chain catcher. It's similar to the -1901, but wider to get the rubber AV mount away from the chip path and side cover. The handle was shortened laterally on the bottom. Both the -1900 and -1901 get really beat up by the chain that that exposes an M6 screw head. Chains don't like steel screw heads...
> 
> ...





Some "new" info gleaned from an old microfiche IPL...


The 1115-791-1900 was used ON 056 up to serial number 902390 (late 1980). 
The -1901 up to serial number 112715825.
The -4400 (bad news on chains) up to serial number 116983628 (mid 1987).
The -4401 was used for all subsequent production and retrofits.


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 12, 2007)

*Today it ran...*

Rebuilt the carb, tightened a few screws, three pulls, whrrroommm... and then a nice steady idle... I like that 


I've got a couple of details to finish up and I need to get the timing set, but it runs real well..

But... I now have a new piston, a great looking crankcase pair, so I'm going to redo the entire engine with "like new parts"... heck why not..


Here she is.. (definitely a "she")... Oh yes,,, the recoil with the elastostart stays until I get the ignition timing adjusted... then I'll swap it to the genuine non-elastostart version that says "Made in WEST GERMANY" on the company plate.


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## Scandy14 (Jun 12, 2007)

Great looking work Andy, as always.


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## beelsr (Jun 12, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> Here she is.. (definitely a "she")... Oh yes,,, the recoil with the elastostart stays until I get the ignition timing adjusted... then I'll swap it to the genuine non-elastostart version that says "Made in WEST GERMANY" on the company plate.



Watcha hiding underneath the curtain?


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 12, 2007)

nutt'in... :jester:


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## Tzed250 (Jun 12, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> nutt'in... :jester:



Sumpin with a clutch cover says "Made in West Germany"...:angel:


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 12, 2007)

Now you're just guessing...


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## wanderer (Jun 13, 2007)

Checked out this 056 today at Andy's. Sure does look good! :rockn:


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## 04ultra (Dec 25, 2007)

Gets my Vote .......Andy has the best threads on AS ...






.


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## blsnelling (Dec 25, 2007)

This thread was a great help in rebuilding my 045 Super. BTW, where's that 056 Mag II you're building from all NOS parts?


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 26, 2007)

It's coming... and will be added to this thread... I just picked up my NOS boot yesterday!


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## Julian (Jan 15, 2008)

I've got an old 045 Super that only has one dog(clutch cover side)... I don't suppose you might have part numbers for dogs that fit the 045/056? I'd really like a matching pair for this beast.


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## Big feller (Jan 15, 2008)

Julian said:


> I've got an old 045 Super that only has one dog(clutch cover side)... I don't suppose you might have part numbers for dogs that fit the 045/056? I'd really like a matching pair for this beast.



1115 664 0500 for the puny things that break
1115 664 0501 for the butch ones. Stihl advise to use these only with fire safe muffler.

A google search for 056 spike should turn something up - last time I looked someone had a stack of them at a fairly reasonable price.


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## spacemule (Mar 25, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> It's coming... and will be added to this thread... I just picked up my NOS boot yesterday!


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 25, 2008)

Pressure... pressure.... few more weeks!


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## bigchips (Mar 26, 2008)

*056 problem myself*

I have an 3 056's that are animals, trouble with one is it revs up like a beast idles fine but put under a load and it starts missing and poping threw the carb i don't know whats wrong i think its either the ignition when heats up or just bad kill switch. But i will never part with these beasts. i'm sold it turns up a 36" bar like nothing.:chainsawguy:


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 30, 2008)

Ok... finally got the "not mine" crap off my bench...

Time to get the 056MAG2 built up.. I've been slowly accumulating NOS parts.. and now have enough to pretty much rebuild the entire saw with new parts. The case sides were mismarked as "056 super"; the tank was missing gaskets and mislabeled... and all were coated in grime, dust, nicotine stains, and other crap... Dishwasher... (shhhh!) and they came out nice...

First..... insert NOS bearings into the new cases sides.

The NOS bearings and crank were locked up solid - nothing bad - just the old packing grease had "soaponified" - or.. dried out... Brake cleaner and they were like new (they are!)...







I removed the oil tank vent and all rubber parts as prep for heating in the convection oven.

The flywheel side will be easy - heat it to 300F for 20 minutes, and the bearing will drop in. The clutch side has a steel insert, and presents more of a problem as steel expands much less then mag, so the bearing is likely to be difficult to insert unless everything is perfect.... It needs to locate against the inner circlip. The easiest way is to insert it from the inside, but unless you have a backstop, there is no way to press the bearing in square. If you're not exactly square, it will jamb...

Find a piece of pipe 2 inches OD and square up the ends, or.... if you have a lathe, make one... The piece on the right is a cheap Stihl bearing mandrel. One end does the clutch side; the other end - the flywheel; fits many saws/bearings. MUCH easier than sockets and other mickey-mouse approaches! Time is of the essence.. and fumbling around while the bearing heats up isn't good....







In the arbor press... backstop beneath...






Both bearings in place... Love those new case sides!





Interestingly.. the case has a serial number.. which means it was pulled from production rather then as a "spare"... I might register it with Stihl... and get my warranty... lolol

To be continued...


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 30, 2008)

another snowy day.. so more progress on the rebuild..


Two cranks.. Note the differences between the "old" (with bearings) and the NOS crank. The new crank is actually older, and has the FW side lobe ground for points. Apart from that, no differences, and it will work fine. The good news is that in 2079 when all 056 electronic ignitions have finally failed, someone can put points back in this one 







And... two oil pump spline drives... The left is NOS and the first generation and has a separate spacer ring; the right is a used later version with an extended inner sleeve. If you come across the earler version, you'll need the spacer. BTW.. neither of these are available from Stihl anymore..








Using the Stihl factory tools...

Suck on the ignition side...






Place the gasket, position with a few long screws, suck on the clutch side.







Loosely tighten the case screws, bang in the two location pins, and then torque the case evenly. I wanted to replace the case screws with torx, but.. the heads are nearly 1mm wider and in some holes bound in the bottom of the cast holes. Reverted back to new slotted/washer screws...


Trim the case gasket under the cylinder before you forget..

Fitting the piston and clips. Pistons (and even the clips) are no longer available from Stihl...


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 30, 2008)

Cylinder going on... 

This NOS cylinder is Marle chrome, not Nikersil. Most 056 are like this. I replaced the hex head cylinder bolts with M6x25 torx. 







Oil pump and misc parts attached... The pump worm drive is the only old part in there... Still available but I'll find one really cheap one day 








Fuel tank- this is a REALLY good time to attach the fuel hose to the tank... a real PITA to to attach after assembly. Hose, fuel filter, gasket and new screws. Real easy stuff.








End of day... just a few more misc parts and then it ready for a new SEM ignition and final assembly.


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## rahtreelimbs (Mar 30, 2008)

Andy, when did the 056 go out of production? I thought parts were to be available for 10 yrs.!


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 30, 2008)

Late 80's?


Many parts are still available, but only because nobody bought them!. You can get the old type clutch shoes, but not the later. Full clutches are available.. for now. 

Pistons are not, a few Piston/cylinder sets are in stock, but no gaskets... part are getting thin... and in the past 6 months, many parts have been exhausted.


No more top handes either... I got pretty much the last one... or complete mufflers...


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## RDT (Mar 30, 2008)

Looking good Lakeside53. This is making me want to find a mag2 to restore.


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 30, 2008)

Buy three.. sell what you don't need  

well.. that WAS my plan...


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## Outlaw5.0 (Mar 30, 2008)

Great job1, I love these type threads.


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 31, 2008)

Oh oh.. desperate searches for parts:

from today's Seattle craigslist...


056av Stihl Chainsaw/Piston

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Reply to: see below
Date: 2008-03-30, 8:34PM PDT


Looking for a 52 mm piston(new or new appearance) for an 056av electronic stihl chainsaw. If you have a box of parts for this saw I'll buy that if it has a piston that will hold compression. I pay cash. Please call (425) 831 5508 and leave a message as I work at night. Thank you for your interest, Jay. 




Location: Snoqualmie 
it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

PostingID: 624660301


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## spacemule (Mar 31, 2008)

Sure looks shiny!


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## THALL10326 (Mar 31, 2008)

spacemule said:


> Sure looks shiny!



No kidding, that saw is awesome clean and looking great, real good thread too, can't beat that Lake.....


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## Tzed250 (Mar 31, 2008)

rahtreelimbs said:


> Andy, when did the 056 go out of production? I thought parts were to be available for 10 yrs.!



I have catalogs from about 1994 that still list the 056...


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 31, 2008)

Tzed250 said:


> I have catalogs from about 1994 that still list the 056...



In English? years after the 066 was out? hmmm.... but... stranger things have happend in the land of Stihl.


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 31, 2008)

Didn't get much of change to work on the saw today - work beckoned...


Inserted the FW side seal.. the Clutch side is pre-fitted by Stihl and integral to the bearing.


New SEM ignition.







Timing "strike "marks. These have little direct relevance, but will be a relative guide for setting the timing. The screws holding the module in need to be secured with blue loctite (242), but there's no point right now - The timing needs to be set (by moving the module) first. I ended up setting it halfway between the two marks for initial startup. Once I calibrate the timing (FW has to come off a couple of times...), I'll remove the screws and loctite them. If you're rebuilding an 045/56, and it doesn't have M4x16 TORX screws, replace them. 







FW on. 







Bar studs... these are the M8/M10 studs used standard in the later Mag 2's (some earlier Mag's have M8/M8), and can be used as repair studs (tap out the hole to M10) for most Stihl pro saws.







Thus side buttoned up except for the clutch... Can't quite bring myself to buy an $89 new clutch when I have 4 great shape used clutches.. maybe later... or I'll get lucky and find one really cheap  BTW... Brad Corradi sent me a complete NOS sprocket kit (drum, drive, everything...) - thanks Brad!


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## Bowtie (Mar 31, 2008)

Awesome. What ya gonna do with this one Andy? No I cant afford it, just asking, lol.


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 31, 2008)

Drag it out for GTGs... then clean it again.... 

Not selling it... but a saw that doesn't saw isn't a saw.... so it will saw now and then...


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## Bowtie (Mar 31, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Drag it out for GTGs... then clean it again....
> 
> Not selling it... but a saw that doesn't saw isn't a saw.... so it will saw now and then...



The way it should be!


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 3, 2008)

Some more progress...



Flywheel on. Buffers mounted, wiring in place and impulse hose connected. Loop string around the boot and pull boot though to mate tank/carb box assy to the main engine.






Fan shroud bolted down, wiring terminated, kill switch mounted, muffler on, inside dog mounted.






I decided to use the orginal slotted screws (for authenticity) in all places except torx for the cylinder and muffler (sorry Stihl - I want those to stay in..).. I did use loctite 242 on many of the slotted head screws...


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## sILlogger (Apr 3, 2008)

great thread...i gotta find me one of these saws some day


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## teacherman (Apr 3, 2008)

*Start from scratch?*



sILlogger said:


> great thread...i gotta find me one of these saws some day



Here ya go, NOS case 056 mag2, was at 10.00 or so when I saw it....:hmm3grin2orange: 
http://cgi.ebay.com/Stihl-056-Magnu...ryZ79669QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 3, 2008)

I have it sniped.. so be careful out there...:greenchainsaw:


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## sILlogger (Apr 3, 2008)

yea...but then i'd have to come up with everything else!! btw how do u use ebay sniping?


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 3, 2008)

sILlogger said:


> yea...but then i'd have to come up with everything else!! btw how do u use ebay sniping?



PM me you email address again... I'll sign you up to my not-so-secret source, and get three successful snipes for doing so.... I've saved a fortune by sniping.. Only amateurs "bid early and high..."


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 3, 2008)

sILlogger said:


> yea...but then i'd have to come up with everything else!! btw how do u use ebay sniping?



Yep... and it's becoming a BI?CH to get all new parts... I lucked out by getting the last top handle from Stihl (or so they tell me).


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## sILlogger (Apr 3, 2008)

I'm not looking for anything new...but i want a decent one that runs good...it doesn't even have to be pretty..but i wouldn't want it patched together too much...i just want one for the nostalgia and to run from time to time.....I know i'm not from that area but to me those saws just have a sort of "aura" to me..and some of these history that those saws have would be unbelievable!!

hmm...Lake..what did u do with the original one that you rebuilt?


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 3, 2008)

I'm putting a decent (not new) top cover on it right now, and it will be ready for a new home..... I put the new top cover, carb box and clutch cover on my new saw, and found decent used parts as replacements. I'll save it for you if you're interested. Give me a week... Pics will go into this thread..


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## spacemule (Apr 3, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> PM me you email address again... I'll sign you up to my not-so-secret source, and get three successful snipes for doing so.... I've saved a fortune by sniping.. Only amateurs "bid early and high..."



I use auction sentry. It's only $9.95 for the software, and you don't pay anything more for snipes. Also, updates are free. It paid for itself on the first auction I got.


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## sILlogger (Apr 3, 2008)

do these saws use the same bar mount as the 046/066 class saws?


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 3, 2008)

yes


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 3, 2008)

spacemule said:


> I use auction sentry. It's only $9.95 for the software, and you don't pay anything more for snipes. Also, updates are free. It paid for itself on the first auction I got.



and I bet often I'll beat you... 'cos you are trying to do it on your local connection  I go to bed and my computer sleeps... let me sign you up too to you can try it(free).


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## spacemule (Apr 3, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> and I bet often I'll beat you... 'cos you are trying to do it on your local connection  I go to bed and my computer sleeps... let me sign you up too to you can try it(free).



Yes, it does place the bid from my computer. However, I've got my computer set to never go to sleep. I've never missed a bid with it. 

Never tried the other, but I might next time I go ebaying. My bank account is telling me I've got to lay off ebay for the next couple of months though.


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## Gumnuts (Apr 4, 2008)

This thread is like a good book.Keep putting it down to do other stuff and 
each time i come back to AS I savor a page or 2.
GOOD WORK - THANKS


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 6, 2008)

*Finally...*

Ready to power up... All I'm missing is a tiny bar and two screws to hold the rubber deflector on the back of the clutch cover, and they are coming from Stihl.


I do have a few spots to touch up wth gray paint, but.. ready to fuel up and test.


And... I need a new oil cap... and they are available.


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 6, 2008)

*and...*

more...


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## RDT (Apr 6, 2008)

Looks good.


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## blsnelling (Apr 6, 2008)

That's a beautiful piece of equipment.


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## Stihl 041S (Apr 6, 2008)

blsnelling said:


> That's a beautiful piece of equipment.



Thats what she said when the bed broke.


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 6, 2008)

It must have been awesome to go into Woods or Madsens 20 years ago and seen shelves of brand new 032, 041 Super ,056 Mag2, 076... and more....


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## Stihl 041S (Apr 6, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> It must have been awesome to go into Woods or Madsens 20 years ago and seen shelves of brand new 032, 041 Super ,056 Mag2, 076... and more....


Truely, like a kid in a candy store. That thing looks so RIGHT.
Rob


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## blsnelling (Apr 6, 2008)

Are you actually going to sell it? I can't imagine collecting parts for months to just sell it right away.


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 6, 2008)

It feels good too.. tight... all new buffers.. in fact.. all new everything... 


I do need to run it a while and set the ignition correctly (that will be interesting...).


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## Stihl 041S (Apr 6, 2008)

Really nice work Bagwan Andy.


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 6, 2008)

blsnelling said:


> Are you actually going to sell it? I can't imagine collecting parts for months to just sell it right away.



nope... eveything has it's price, but to me right now it's "priceless".

I will sell the original saw though... and currently it's spoken for.


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## vegaome (Apr 6, 2008)

Andy,

I hope it runs as good as it looks. Well done.

v/r

Mike


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## kruege84 (Apr 6, 2008)

NICE WORK!!


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## blsnelling (Apr 6, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> I will sell the original saw though... and currently it's spoken for.



Maybe that's what I heard you mention. Glad to hear you're keeping it.


----------



## teacherman (Apr 6, 2008)

*+1*



Stihl 041S said:


> Really nice work Bagwan Andy.



Ya, O Keeper of the Flame........Such a beautiful piece of machinery!:greenchainsaw:


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 6, 2008)

let's just say it's "precious":greenchainsaw:


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## Stihl 041S (Apr 6, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> let's just say it's "precious":greenchainsaw:



It is "THE ONE"


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## Eccentric (Apr 7, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Ready to power up... All I'm missing is a tiny bar and two screws to hold the rubber deflector on the back of the clutch cover, and they are coming from Stihl.
> 
> 
> I do have a few spots to touch up wth gray paint, but.. ready to fuel up and test.
> ...




Does the new oil cap look like the one now on the saw, or does it look like the fuel cap? My 031 has fuel and oil caps that both look like your fuel cap. Are these available from Stihl? I can vaguely remember going into Stihl, Homelite, and McCulloch dealerships as a kid and seeing the 'grand old saws' we now love. got to see a few new Echo twins too. My dad pointed them out!


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 7, 2008)

I believe the 056 oil cap is now more like the fuel cap style.


The 031 caps are no longer available (new).


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## hoss (Apr 7, 2008)

One of my favorite saws ( I have three) to start with, and that one is the best looking I've ever seen. Be careful, right now you say you'll only run it a little, but you and I know that these particular ones can hard to put down once you start. Man have fun with that masterpiece.


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## Gumnuts (Apr 7, 2008)

Flabbergasted.................so...*SO NICE*

DOES ANYONE STOCK THE BREAK HANDLE STICKERS ?


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 7, 2008)

All the safety decals are available free from your dealer...


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## bcorradi (Apr 7, 2008)

Nice looking saw Andy...great work.


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## spacemule (Apr 7, 2008)

That's a nice looking saw. In fact, if you catch me in a good mood, I might go as high as $56 or $57 for it.


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## teacherman (Apr 7, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> let's just say it's "precious":greenchainsaw:



O u know Gollum relate to that... how much?


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## thomas72 (Apr 7, 2008)

You did a good job on the saw, look forward to your other projects.


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 7, 2008)

teacherman said:


> O u know Gollum relate to that... how much?



more than all the stars in the sky...:greenchainsaw:


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## THALL10326 (Apr 7, 2008)

That saw looks like brand new. Great thread. 

When are you going to put a bar and chain on it and give it a run???


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 7, 2008)

soon.... I want savour it a little first before I mess it all up... and I do need to touch up the very few nicks in the gray paint. 

I'm going to take it down to StihlNW next week so they can drool over it also.... Nothing like genuine Stihl drool to polish things up


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## THALL10326 (Apr 7, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> soon.... I want savour it a little first before I mess it all up... and I do need to touch up the very few nicks in the gray paint.
> 
> I'm going to take it down to StihlNW next week so they can drool over it also.... Nothing like genuine Stihl drool to polish things up



That saw will surely turn some heads, great work there.

I been pondering on how to make this 041AV look like new and I think I've found a way thats fool proof. We got a custom auto body shop in town that does all sorts of trick paint jobs. They should have no problem matching Stihl grey and orange. They do the bake on finnish and clear coats, bead blasting and anything related to paint. A car job runs 3-4 thousand, a saw shouldn't be much over a 100. I'll keep you posted on what they tell me..


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 7, 2008)

Nice... the money is in the prep, and masking... $100? lololol

Custom paint? I'm thinking orange with black crinkle finish, and air-brushed flames...


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## THALL10326 (Apr 7, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Nice... the money is in the prep, and masking... $100? lololol
> 
> Custom paint? I'm thinking orange with black crinkle finish, and air-brushed flames...



I was thinking the samething, would be wild wouldn't it???????

I know a few of the guys that work there, I keep their Stihls in tip top shape, don't charge them much and hopefully they will remember I don't..


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## teacherman (Apr 7, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Nice... the money is in the prep, and masking... $100? lololol
> 
> Custom paint? I'm thinking orange with black crinkle finish, and air-brushed flames...



Metalflake GTO green, mon. 

..more than all the stars in the sky,.......... I can relate. Blank check is in the mail... J/K.............that 056 is one beautiful saw o ya mon!


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## sefh3 (Feb 27, 2009)

I just aquired an 056 last night. It came to me with no spark and only cost me a 12 pk of beer. I want to do the same to it but where do you recommend finding parts for these? Also what kind of paint do you use?


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## demographic (Feb 27, 2009)

Just to add to this thread that Wiseco (who make pistons) will do limited production runs on motorcycle pistons, someone on the thread mentioned that Stihl no longer sell the pistons for these saws so if theres enough people wanting a piston Wiseco could well be the people to ask.
Also, most bearing factors are able to supply crank bearings and so on for engines, just take the old ones in and they read the bearing codes off them are can often offer replacements that are of a better spec than OE.
They can sometimes get hold of crank seals as well.

Other than that, good thread.

Scott.


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## Lakeside53 (Feb 27, 2009)

Reading bearing codes and matching only works if they are a standard sizes and have no custom features... many saw bearings are not available except via the OEM. There are many threads on this topic.


Parts? Ebay.... AS members... old saw shops... and many still available via Stihl dealers.

Paint : I use Stihl supplied paint. The orange is a bit of a pain - needs many costs with cures in between. Matching to a close color with automobile quality paint is a good option. Check into threads by Brad Snelling - he did the later with nice results.


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## epicklein22 (Feb 27, 2009)

demographic said:


> Just to add to this thread that Wiseco (who make pistons) will do limited production runs on motorcycle pistons, someone on the thread mentioned that Stihl no longer sell the pistons for these saws so if theres enough people wanting a piston Wiseco could well be the people to ask.
> Also, most bearing factors are able to supply crank bearings and so on for engines, just take the old ones in and they read the bearing codes off them are can often offer replacements that are of a better spec than OE.
> They can sometimes get hold of crank seals as well.
> 
> ...



Ha, I assume you have never worked on a chainsaw. A wiseco piston is gonna cost over 150 bucks and you have to buy a batch of them. No need for a new top end if the current one is not scored.

Bearings, as Lake said can be special and only available from the manufacturer. Again, not needed if tight.

I have seen quite a bit of ignitions on ebay lately, but haven't check in the last month or so. They are out there, just be ready to spend a little dough.

Oh by the way, a 12 pack for an 056 is a killer deal even without spark.


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## demographic (Feb 28, 2009)

epicklein22 said:


> Ha, I assume you have never worked on a chainsaw. A wiseco piston is gonna cost over 150 bucks and you have to buy a batch of them. No need for a new top end if the current one is not scored.
> 
> Bearings, as Lake said can be special and only available from the manufacturer. Again, not needed if tight.
> 
> ...



Yep your dead right I have never stripped a chainsaw down.
I know you have to order a batch but as my motorcycle pistons usuallly cost over a hundred pounds (I don't know what that is in Dollars but I'm guessing about $160 about now) each anyway the cost wouldn't have been over the odds for a bike.

If I recall correct Mahle (I wouldn't be surprised if they make Stihl pistons anyway as they are both based in Germany) also do limited production runs if you have enough numbers wanting the pistons.

I wasn't specifically saying he needed a new piston, just replying to someone on the thread who said that the pistons were no longer avaliable, it depends on how much you want them, thats all I'm saying.
Everything can be made or got hold of...for a price and it just depends on if a person think the price is worth it.
Bearings? it's always worth checking with a bearing factors all the same as I've seen enough "specials" that are just pretty standard bearings bought by the manufacturers than re-packaged and sold on by the motorcycle manufacturers at a premium price to believe that manufacturers of other engines wouldn't do the same.

I can get higher spec crank bearings than OE for my KX500 motocrosser for less money than Kawasaki charge.














But yeah, $150 for a chainsaw piston is rather a lot of cash


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## Rockfarmer (Feb 28, 2009)

Lakeside53 said:


> Reading bearing codes and matching only works if they are a standard sizes and have no custom features... many saw bearings are not available except via the OEM. There are many threads on this topic.



Uh oh,.. Where can I get ahold of a set of bearings and seals for an 045 super? I stopped at my local Stihl dealer and they looked up all the part numbers for a lower rebuild and all of them were nla,.. I was hoping my bearing shop could match them up,.. I got to get them things out already!!


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## Lakeside53 (Feb 28, 2009)

The flywheels side bearing and seal is available. The FW bearing is just a 6004 and readily available everywhere.

The clutch side seal 9639 003 2690 has been replaced with 9640 003 2690. Your dealer needs to look up the paper list for substitutions - Mediacat does not show them.


The 045S clutch side bearing 9523 003 0440 is custom and NLA and hasn't been for a long time... that's a grooved bearing so it can hold a big clip. The 056 flipped that around and put the clip in the housing. There are a lot of perfectly good used bearings around or you can try cheapstihlsawparts - he might have NOS.


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## Rockfarmer (Feb 28, 2009)

ok Lakeside, im going to write those part numbers down and look around some more. I feel kind of bad wasting my dealers time looking for parts for a 30+ year old saw, I dont think theyll be too happy the next time I walk in the door. I'm getting a big list ready for cheapstihlparts for a couple saws, thanks for that


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## Ax-man (Jan 16, 2010)

I am bringing this thread back up because I hope it catches Lake's attention if he is still here or another 056 expert concerning the history of the ignition systems used in a 56. 

Today I recieved an odd request to look a saw that didn't run right from a tree customer of mine. My jaw dropped when they came over with it. An 056 AV in mint and I mean mint condition that = 's pristine that it looks like came right from the dealer's shelf. Original Duromatic bar and probaly the same chain it came with.. The chain sprocket didn't even have a nick in it. 

Anyway, the saw starts and runs but runs like the ignition is cutting out and sounds like it is out of time. Very similar to the way a saw would run if the lead wire was shorting out to the case or a point ignition saw would run with the points out of adjustment or had a bad condenser or the on-off switch wasn't working right. 

I have tinkered with what little timing adjustment the module has as shown in this thread about halfway back around page 11. Didn't make much difference in the way it ran. I have also gone throught the carb making an adjustment mostly in the height of the metering lever. The setting was real high. That didn't work much either although the saw did run a little cleaner.

This saw is in way too good of shape for any of the usual old saw problems concerning a running ignition problem. This saw was so clean under the flywheel I could read Presto on the spark plug wire,don't see that too often. 

My question is how reliable were these early capacitor dicharge modules???

This one is a Bosch with the orginal two piece flywheel just like the one Lake put in the 56 that is the theme of this rebuild thread. Did these modules have a history of premature failure?? I got a feeling the one I have is failing internally somehow.

Also, what does SEM stand for ??? I'll take a guess at Seimens Electronic Module. 

I'd like to fix this saw for the lady but I know these modules are no longer available from Sthil and it would gut me to put a used module in such a nice looking saw. 

AX or Larry


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## THALL10326 (Jan 16, 2010)

Ax-man said:


> I am bringing this thread back up because I hope it catches Lake's attention if he is still here or another 056 expert concerning the history of the ignition systems used in a 56.
> 
> Today I recieved an odd request to look a saw that didn't run right from a tree customer of mine. My jaw dropped when they came over with it. An 056 AV in mint and I mean mint condition that = 's pristine that it looks like came right from the dealer's shelf. Original Duromatic bar and probaly the same chain it came with.. The chain sprocket didn't even have a nick in it.
> 
> ...



The Bosch module is no longer available. You can switch it to the SEM system but you will need a matching flywheel and possibly recoil starter assembly. 

I wish ole Lake would come on back and bring AS back to the good ole days,grrrrrrrrrrr


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## Ax-man (Jan 16, 2010)

Hey Thall, Thanks for the info.

Am I on the right track with this one? At least somewhat on track. To me you either have spark or you don't.


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## teacherman (Jan 16, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> The Bosch module is no longer available. You can switch it to the SEM system but you will need a matching flywheel and possibly recoil starter assembly.
> 
> I wish ole Lake would come on back and bring AS back to the good ole days,grrrrrrrrrrr



I agree. Other folks know a lot, and are helpful, but I stihl miss Andy.


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## THALL10326 (Jan 16, 2010)

Ax-man said:


> Hey Thall, Thanks for the info.
> 
> Am I on the right track with this one? At least somewhat on track. To me you either have spark or you don't.



Thats about the size of it. The Bosch ignitions on those saws were well known for one thing, going DEAD.

I got a man that owns two 056's with Bosch ignitions, get this, both are deader than 4 o'clock. He won't fess up the funds to switch them over so he has two non-running 056's, one is in awesome shape, dayummm shame. I have another old guy that has a 056, Bosch system, DEAD. He too won't fess up the funds.


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## THALL10326 (Jan 16, 2010)

teacherman said:


> I agree. Other folks know a lot, and are helpful, but I stihl miss Andy.



No kidding, Lake has forgotten more than I know. He was a walking wealth of knowledge for sure....


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## Ax-man (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks again Thall, I'll pass along the bad news. 

For the record I value your opinions just as much as Andy's.


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## THALL10326 (Jan 16, 2010)

Ax-man said:


> Thanks again Thall, I'll pass along the bad news.
> 
> For the record I value your opinions just as much as Andy's.



Well I'll be the first to say I do not know nearly as much as ole Lakeside. I used to sit here and merely read alot of his posts and never say word and I learned alot. The man should have been a teacher for sure....


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## Ax-man (Jan 16, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Well I'll be the first to say I do not know nearly as much as ole Lakeside. I used to sit here and merely read alot of his posts and never say word and I learned alot. The man should have been a teacher for sure....



Very true. Although there have been a few times I didn't agree with him but that is beside the point. I learned much from him also. He did miss his calling.


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## THALL10326 (Jan 16, 2010)

Ax-man said:


> Very true. Although there have been a few times I didn't agree with him but that is beside the point. I learned much from him also. He did miss his calling.



Haha,true. When I first came to AS I had no clue who he was. I was reading one of his posts one nite about him using a impact gun on clutches. I thought huhhhhhhhhh, thats not by the book. As I got to know him better I realize he is one of few that is capable of using a impact without damaging anything. The man knew his business and sometimes he didn't need to go by the book to getter done. He was sharp for sure,


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## hoss (Jan 16, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Haha,true. When I first came to AS I had no clue who he was. I was reading one of his posts one nite about him using a impact gun on clutches. I thought huhhhhhhhhh, thats not by the book. As I got to know him better I realize he is one of few that is capable of using a impact without damaging anything. The man knew his business and sometimes he didn't need to go by the book to getter done. He was sharp for sure,



You mean he should be teaching at Virginia Beach?


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## THALL10326 (Jan 16, 2010)

hoss said:


> You mean he should be teaching at Virginia Beach?



They got a excellent teacher there, Lake could have taught like the tech guys at Mid-Atlantic, he stayed up to snuff on everything....


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## Bowtie (Jan 16, 2010)

hoss said:


> You mean he should be teaching at Virginia Beach?



Yep. This place was much better when he was around.


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## nanuk (Jan 17, 2010)

*I vote....*

to have Andy come back!

I then vote for him to photo a tutorial of rebuilds on all the stihl models working up to the new ones.


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## Gumnuts (Jan 17, 2010)

QUOTE from ANDY post #!
......Replaced the flywheel with the later type, and an ignition from a TS360 cut-off saw. Three pulls... Whrrommm! - end quote.

Guess yu still have to source / cost those parts tho....may be cheaper than
SEM.Is the TS360 ignition the same as 036 ignition ?


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## sefh3 (Jan 17, 2010)

The TS350 and I think the TS360 used the same SEM GA module. I know that some of the Husky 2100 (I think 2100) used the same module as well. I have one in my 056 that was from a Husky. If you switch over to SEM you will need a new flywheel too.


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## mrinds (Jun 15, 2010)

*Looking for 056 magnum2 cylinder 56mm*

Anyone got an old 956magnum cylinder in good shape that they'd be willing to part with. Give me a quote. Thx Mike


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## NeoTree (Jun 15, 2010)

mrinds said:


> Anyone got an old 956magnum cylinder in good shape that they'd be willing to part with. Give me a quote. Thx Mike



I'd try the tradin post here on AS. or ebay, you can get an 056Mag parts saw for less than the price of a jug if you know what you are looking for.


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## jerrycmorrow (Jan 13, 2011)

Lakeside53 said:


> PM me you email address again... I'll sign you up to my not-so-secret source, and get three successful snipes for doing so.... I've saved a fortune by sniping.. Only amateurs "bid early and high..."


 
Just got turned on to this thread. Awesome! tried to pm you but your box is full

Oops. just finished reading the thread and apparently Lakeside is MIA. whats the scoop?


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## sefh3 (Jan 13, 2011)

Lakeside retired from this website a few years ago. I'm sure his PM box is full and has been for sometime. Last I heard he was enjoying retirement!!! We sure do miss him!!!!


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## jerrycmorrow (Jan 17, 2011)

got any idea about this not-so-secret sniping source?


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## ZeroJunk (Jan 29, 2011)

I wish he had finished posting how he timed the MagII. I just finished rebuilding one and replacing the bad SEM igntion. Turned the replacement SEM fully advanced since that's where the old one was. But, I know somebody else had been in there. Seems to run OK. I have no clue how to time it correctly.


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## jra1100 (Jun 8, 2012)

Wow, this is a great thread. I just bought a 056 mag 2 and this will be very helpful. Have only read a bit so far, it's LONG, and very good. JR


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## sawbones (Sep 8, 2012)

ZeroJunk said:


> I wish he had finished posting how he timed the MagII. I just finished rebuilding one and replacing the bad SEM igntion. Turned the replacement SEM fully advanced since that's where the old one was. But, I know somebody else had been in there. Seems to run OK. I have no clue how to time it correctly.





Maybe he will tell us now. 


Hey Andy, I picked up a mag 2 last week off CL and found the starter didnt work. 

This is what it looked like by the time I got done trying to fix the starter. :msp_biggrin:








Ended up installing new OEM rings, starter and cup, full wrap bar, clutch drum, carb heat deflector,air filter, and the only new OEM ignition and flywheel I had in stock.

Made a test cut and found the clutch side seal leaked and replaced that yesterday. Sound good now. 

Shown with a 24" windsor I got from Bob at Chain Saw +


Wish I had googled up this thread before I put it back together. Good to see ya posting. 












ric

skyvalleysaw


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## Lakeside53 (Sep 8, 2012)

I leave ONE thing for you guys to figure out and 3 years later you still ask the question!

Stretching my aging memory back a few years..... you time it by lining up the marks on the module and crankcase. 

If you have a new or unmarked crankcase, you insert a travel indicator in the plug hole to find TDC then 0.11 inches BTDC, and transfer the mark from the flywheel to the case. Then take off the flywheel and line up the module to the case marks.

View attachment 252091


Hey Sawbones - nice saw but you need the correct air filter box! lol...


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## SkippyKtm (Sep 8, 2012)

Ax-man said:


> I am bringing this thread back up because I hope it catches Lake's attention if he is still here or another 056 expert concerning the history of the ignition systems used in a 56.
> 
> Today I recieved an odd request to look a saw that didn't run right from a tree customer of mine. My jaw dropped when they came over with it. An 056 AV in mint and I mean mint condition that = 's pristine that it looks like came right from the dealer's shelf. Original Duromatic bar and probaly the same chain it came with.. The chain sprocket didn't even have a nick in it.
> 
> ...



I love this thread...

I know this post is kind of old, but I couldn't resist answering this question.. Its stands for *Svenska Elektromagneter* a Swedish company that makes ignitions among other things:

History


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## ZeroJunk (Sep 9, 2012)

Lakeside53 said:


> I leave ONE thing for you guys to figure out and 3 years later you still ask the question!
> 
> Stretching my aging memory back a few years..... you time it by lining up the marks on the module and crankcase.
> 
> ...



I muddled through it .

Great to see you posting again. The forum is better for it.


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## SawTroll (Sep 9, 2012)

ZeroJunk said:


> I muddled through it .
> 
> Great to see you posting again. The forum is better for it.



Yes, he was deeply missed! :biggrin:


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## jtimmp (Sep 21, 2012)

*have a 056 mag need some advise*

I am new to AS and was given a 056 mag with the 56mm piston. I took it apart thinking it was an 064(thats what i was told) Have been reading for about a week and am pretty sure its an 056 mag. ready to do a total restoration on this saw. i live in Bellevue, WA and could use some advice.(would like to know if its worth it or not)Lakeside53 is close by does he have a shop? I am a finish carpenter of 30 yrs and not a bad wrench,so i have skills. Your advise would be appreciated.
JJ


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## jra1100 (Sep 21, 2012)

I just got mine back from the shop. I had sheared the key on the starter recoil. It wouldn't start for obvious reasons, but all better now. It started when I broke the rope and shortened it a bit, and when I gave a big pull to start it the key sheared. Man would a decomp make this easier to start. JR


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## ZeroJunk (Sep 21, 2012)

jtimmp said:


> I am new to AS and was given a 056 mag with the 56mm piston. I took it apart thinking it was an 064(thats what i was told) Have been reading for about a week and am pretty sure its an 056 mag. ready to do a total restoration on this saw. i live in Bellevue, WA and could use some advice.(would like to know if its worth it or not)Lakeside53 is close by does he have a shop? I am a finish carpenter of 30 yrs and not a bad wrench,so i have skills. Your advise would be appreciated.
> JJ



An 056 Mag will bring close to $500 in good shape.They are still sought after. Doesn't look anything like an 064, so if you can post a photo we can tell you what it is pretty quick.


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## hotshot (Sep 21, 2012)

jra1100 said:


> I just got mine back from the shop. I had sheared the key on the starter recoil. It wouldn't start for obvious reasons, but all better now. It started when I broke the rope and shortened it a bit, and when I gave a big pull to start it the key sheared. Man would a decomp make this easier to start. JR



See my link to the dual dog conversion http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/146770.htm


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## sefh3 (Sep 21, 2012)

hotshot said:


> See my link to the dual dog conversion http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/146770.htm



I think that would be a great help for this series. Can you post that picuture again but a little bigger. It's hard for me to see the dual design.


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## sawbones (Sep 21, 2012)

jtimmp said:


> I am new to AS and was given a 056 mag with the 56mm piston. I took it apart thinking it was an 064(thats what i was told) Have been reading for about a week and am pretty sure its an 056 mag. ready to do a total restoration on this saw. i live in Bellevue, WA and could use some advice.(would like to know if its worth it or not)Lakeside53 is close by does he have a shop? I am a finish carpenter of 30 yrs and not a bad wrench,so i have skills. Your advise would be appreciated.
> JJ





If you do have an 056 for sure you might head up to Kenmore to Chain saws plus on the 522 Lake City way. 

Bob is an old school stihl guy and still works on them but you should know that parts are hard to find.

I think he is also the guy that taught lakeside everything he knows. :hmm3grin2orange:

If your ever headed out towards Hwy 2 east of monroe look me up. 


ric


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## 3000 FPS (Sep 21, 2012)

Lakeside53 said:


> I leave ONE thing for you guys to figure out and 3 years later you still ask the question!
> 
> Stretching my aging memory back a few years..... you time it by lining up the marks on the module and crankcase.
> 
> If you have a new or unmarked crankcase, you insert a travel indicator in the plug hole to find TDC then 0.11 inches BTDC, and transfer the mark from the flywheel to the case. Then take off the flywheel and line up the module to the case marks.



Talking about figuring things out did you ever find anyone who knew anything about welding on a piece of magnesium. That was some pretty awful welding I saw in your old pics from back then. 

I actually felt bad for you and then realized how old the thread was. I was thinking of offering my services.


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## backwoodsman42 (Nov 26, 2015)

I know this is an old thread but I need to fix a 056 av. It has a dead sem coil but 200$ is awful steep.
Does the husqvarna 2100 coil fit and work on the 056?


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## ZeroJunk (Nov 26, 2015)

backwoodsman42 said:


> I know this is an old thread but I need to fix a 056 av. It has a dead sem coil but 200$ is awful steep.
> Does the husqvarna 2100 coil fit and work on the 056?




Not trying to make you mad but are you sure it is a SEM ? Shouldn't be unless somebody has already changed it or it is a Mag.


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## backwoodsman42 (Nov 26, 2015)

It has SEM stamped right on it.
No worries. I'm just trying to get the old brute running. It does have mag 2 on the name plate. It was just really faded


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## farmer steve (Feb 1, 2017)

bump


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## ZeroJunk (Feb 1, 2017)

The 2100 coil should work. I don't remember whether the spark plug wire screws in to those or not, but you will likely have to swap the wires.


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