# MS 362 C-M Review on Stihl Website



## MustangMike (Jan 28, 2014)

Just a FYI if anyone cares, I posted the FIRST review of the MS 362 C-M on the Stihl website.

Also noticed that reviews under the category MS 362 R C-M are not of M-Tronic saws.

MustangMike


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## MountainHigh (Jan 28, 2014)

nice review - What does the manual say about BREAK IN PERIOD?
Does this saw say to run it WOT in wood for the first 3 to 5 minutes, like the Husky autotune saws do?


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 28, 2014)

It says "carry out 5 uniform cuts to length under full load" 


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## MustangMike (Jan 28, 2014)

The manual really does not address break in. It says to do 5 cuts of at least 12" wood to set M-Tronic to current conditions, but break in is not addressed.

I think each saw is different. Rings seating and the time for bearings to clearance will vary from saw to saw. The use of synthetic oil also likely slows this process. I also don't know how long it takes M-Tonic to learn a full range of conditions, I just know it got progressively stronger as I used it. It was only noticeable on "big wood". It went through anything 10" or less like a hot knife through butter from the start. Some owners of MS 261 C-Ms have reported a similar bog on the first tank. I have seen some reports that say the saw keeps getting stronger for 10 to 15 tanks of fuel. If mine stays just the way it is, you will not hear me complain.


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 28, 2014)

You gotta make those cuts right out of the box for the current condition you're gonna use it in right? I'd say it was no different than Husky's procedure just worded different.


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## MustangMike (Jan 28, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> You gotta make those cuts right out of the box for the current condition you're gonna use it in right? I'd say it was no different than Husky's procedure just worded different.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Autotune Carb




Actually, No. Ya made me pull out my booklet! Under M-Tronic - Automatic Adjustment:

"Under extremely changed operating conditions, attainment of the optimal setting can be accelerated as follows: - Carry out five uniform cuts to length under full load." Elsewhere in the website I found where it said full load is 12" or more.

Under "During the Break in Period"

"A new factory machine should not be run at high revs (full throttle off load) for the first three tank fillings. This avoids unnecessarily high loads during the break in period. As all moving parts have to bed in during the break-in period , the frictional resistances in the shortblock are greater during this period. The engine develops its maximum power after about 5 to 15 tank fillings."

There you have it! Also, 5 uniform 12" cuts will only take a minute or two.

I also printed out a brochure on the MS 362 C-M and it says the saw puts out 4.8 Hp even though the website says 4.6 Hp.

And I know there is a lot of debate about this, but I can't imagine Stihl publishing this if it is not true:

"M-Tronic's fully electronic engine control recognizes a cold and a warm start, and adjusts the ignition timing in all operating modes. It also precisely and electronically meters the fuel supply. It even takes into account external conditions such as temperature, elevation and fuel quality." 

I believe the on line video says it monitors the engine 32 times per second.

Hope this answers all the questions.

MustangMike


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## MountainHigh (Jan 28, 2014)

Thanks for the feedback.

Doing some more research on this saw and I notice that the US version shows it is heavier than the Canadian version!

CDN: Weight (kg / lbs) 5.8 kg / 12.8 lbs
http://en.stihl.ca/STIHL-Products/C...n-saws-for-forestry/22252-130/MS-362-C-M.aspx

US: POWERHEAD WEIGHT 5.9 kg (13.0 lbs)
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/professional-saws/ms362cm/
look under the *Specifications* Tab

I wonder what the difference is?


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## MustangMike (Jan 28, 2014)

So that must be a Canadian Saw I pulled the stats on. I knew they spelled Favorite a little different (Favourite).

I was going to say that when I removed the Muffler Screen maybe I converted it to a Canadian spec saw, but that thing does not even seem to weigh a 10th of an ounce, but I bet it picked up the HP. The screen is so dense I bet it was restricting air flow 50%.


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 28, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> Under "During the Break in Period"
> 
> "A new factory machine should not be run at high revs (full throttle off load)


 Full throttle OFF LOAD=put it in wood and run it like you stole it full throttle. Balls to the wall baby!!


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## opinion (Jan 28, 2014)

In the owners manual and media cat, it's rated at 4.7 hp. Who cares really? Long as it's powerful.


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## MustangMike (Jan 28, 2014)

You are correct, and thank you for that. I knew I saw someplace that the HP was at 10,000 RPM, and that peak RPM was 14,000. It is in the manual, I was searching for where I had seen that information. Thanks!


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## MustangMike (Jan 28, 2014)

Not that I want to start a war (well OK, maybe I do) but if this saw does 14,000 RPM when I pull the trigger, what does the Husky Rev Boost claim it will do? Just curious.


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## MountainHigh (Jan 28, 2014)

Husky rev boost = 1 million


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 28, 2014)

The max on the 562xp is also 14K and makes max power at 9600


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## MountainHigh (Jan 28, 2014)

did you opt for any lighter 20" bar or did you go with the stock stihl bar? how is the balance and weight? Would balance be good with Pro-lite or other lighter bar? 

Any pics for us droolers?

.


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## MustangMike (Jan 28, 2014)

No pics yet, I went with the 20" Stihl Green bar with yellow RS chain. If Rev Boost does not go any faster than my Stihl, why all the hype? Also, if the Stilhl makes max power at a higher RPM, that should bode well when someone does a comparison test. I'm starting to like this saw more and more all the time!!!

The balance is great and since I am used to running 70 cc Stihls, this saw feels like a lightweight to me.

(I think it is about to get hot in the kitchen)


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## AKDoug (Jan 28, 2014)

I'll confirm the PHO weight... it's 13.0 lbs weighed on my certified scale in my store.


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## MustangMike (Jan 28, 2014)

I think up in Canada, with the Cold Dense Air, the saw weights less (just kidding). Thanks for the info Doug, you don't happen to have a 562 XP you can throw in the scale, do you?

By the way, is that a Wolf Skull?


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## Alongshot (Jan 28, 2014)

AKDoug said:


> I'll confirm the PHO weight... it's 13.0 lbs weighed on my certified scale in my store.




You've got one on the shelf in your store, have you had a chance to play w/one yet? Or are you just itching at the bit to do so?


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## naturelover (Jan 28, 2014)

Actually, I've never done that to the 441. I did do the calibration once, just because. 

I usually just start it, let it warm up a bit, and cut, never seemed to hurt it. 


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk


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## AKDoug (Jan 28, 2014)

Alongshot said:


> You've got one on the shelf in your store, have you had a chance to play w/one yet? Or are you just itching at the bit to do so?


Dude, I'm itchin' something fierce to try it out, but I've got to make money selling these things  I've tossed the idea of selling my 441C-M back and forth a million times in the last week to pay for it. I have not run it yet, but I have a carb'd one to run it against when I decide to do so.



naturelover said:


> Actually, I've never done that to the 441. I did do the calibration once, just because.
> 
> I usually just start it, let it warm up a bit, and cut, never seemed to hurt it.
> 
> ...


 Me too. I walk outside and start bucking wood. The saw tunes itself as I work.


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## AKDoug (Jan 28, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> I think up in Canada, with the Cold Dense Air, the saw weights less (just kidding). Thanks for the info Doug, you don't happen to have a 562 XP you can throw in the scale, do you?
> 
> By the way, is that a Wolf Skull?


No 562XP's... There isn't a Husqvarna Pro Saw dealer to be seen in this country. That's a bear skull drawing.


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## MustangMike (Jan 28, 2014)

Sorry about that, everything looks so much different without the flesh & fur. I thought the Orange Men would be attacking me by now, they must all be asleep!

That 441 C-M must be impressive. Have you compared that to the non M-Tronic version?


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## AKDoug (Jan 28, 2014)

No 441's but I repaired and ran a 440 today and it was a screamer. It 4 stroked at what turned out to be 14,000. The owner and I agreed to back it back down to 13,500. It was a big time runner, but we didn't have time to run it against my 441C-M. I have no doubt the 440 would keep up... however I never have to worry about tuning my 441C-M.

If I pull the trigger on this 362C-M, I will run it against a good running broken in 362 carb. Don't hold your breath, though


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## MustangMike (Jan 29, 2014)

Remove that carb screen and give it time to break in and I do not think you will be disappointed. The 362 is a great size for an all around saw.


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## Alongshot (Jan 29, 2014)

OK, so how does the Mtronic 362 start.
Move the master switch from off to run
Push in the throttle lock then pull in in the throttle lever
Then move the master switch to the start position & then pull til she fires up?

Warm start just just move the master switch from off to run then pull it til it fires?


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## MustangMike (Jan 29, 2014)

You got it a little wrong, your thinking like the old saws.

1) The control lever never stays on stop, you push it up to stop, then let it go and it returns to run. For a warm start, just pull the cord.

2) For a cold start, push the control lever all the way down (it will only go down if you press the trigger, but you must let go of the trigger or it will automatically go back to run). So you pull the trigger, push the lever down, let go of the trigger, pull the recoil cord.

3) Just pull the cord and it starts. Unlike a saw with "Choke" instead of "Start", there is no rush to change the setting after it starts. In fact, on cold days let it stay there for 10 or 20 seconds. When you pull the trigger, it automatically goes to run. You don't have to worry about flooding it, the saw adjusts the fuel mix based on the temp. Nice!

Hope I explained it clearly enough.


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## MountainHigh (Jan 29, 2014)

Reliability is key for me on these new autotune/m-tronic saws. So far the Stihl seems to have the edge in reliability, as the Husy's have had carb issues that are in the process of being worked out, thanks to some smart guys on this forum. BUT - to be fair, Stihl's new m-tronic saws are newer and may yet develop some issues.

Are all the North American Stihl's made in US now?

Could it be that the Canadian ms362 c-m version is not the US version and could that account for the lighter weight? If that is the case , where is the weight reduction and how was it achieved?opcorn:

I'm going to buy something soon
-


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## Alongshot (Jan 29, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> You got it a little wrong, your thinking like the old saws.
> 
> 1) The control lever never stays on stop, you push it up to stop, then let it go and it returns to run. For a warm start, just pull the cord.
> 
> ...



So you have to use both hands, 1 to set the throttle trigger 2nd hand to move the switch in the proper position? Then you pull til she fires, wait for her to warm up abit, then blip it, or move the switch? Sounds pretty straight forward.
Thanks.


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## RedFir Down (Jan 29, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> Not that I want to start a war (well OK, maybe I do) but if this saw does 14,000 RPM when I pull the trigger, what does the Husky Rev Boost claim it will do? Just curious.


Rev Boost has nothing to do with max RPM WOT.
This quote is from Husqvarna's website..."Rapid acceleration and higher chain speed for best limbing performance".

"Orange people attacking you"... I personally dont have time nor do I care to argue and bicker which saw is "better"!! (I already read... I mean skim over entirely to much on here as it is)
Im glad to hear your enjoying your new 362 though!


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## MustangMike (Jan 29, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> Reliability is key for me on these new autotune/m-tronic saws. So far the Stihl seems to have the edge in reliability, as the Husy's have had carb issues that are in the process of being worked out, thanks to some smart guys on this forum. BUT - to be fair, Stihl's new m-tronic saws are newer and may yet develop some issues.
> 
> Are all the North American Stihl's made in US now?
> 
> ...



You may be onto something, but not sure. The brochure that says 4.8 Hp says wt is 5.8 kg, same as my Instruction Manual (13 lb). The picture of the 362 does say Made In Germany. I know my saw was made in USA. Seems like both saws wt is the same.

My head is spinning, have to remember what source was for wt of 12.8 lb. It may just be a misprint. I don't think I would believe it unless I saw it on the scale. From various sources we have HP of 4.6, 4.7 and 4.8 Hp. #s may move a little during translation, due to rounding, etc. For example, I am looking at two different sources that both show 3.5 kw, but one translates that to 4.7 Hp and the other 4.8 Hp. Don't think there is a difference in the saw, just in the conversion.

I'm starting the think the best explanation is errors in conversion/translation even though the 362 C-M is made in both Germany and the USA.


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## MustangMike (Jan 29, 2014)

RedFir Down said:


> Rev Boost has nothing to do with max RPM WOT.
> This quote is from Husqvarna's website..."Rapid acceleration and higher chain speed for best limbing performance".
> 
> "Orange people attacking you"... I personally dont have time nor do I care to argue and bicker which saw is "better"!! (I already read... I mean skim over entirely to much on here as it is)
> Im glad to hear your enjoying your new 362 though!



Thanks, I meant it in good spirit, you know how the debates get going here. And I know that the 562 and 362 are both great saws.


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## MustangMike (Jan 29, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> Reliability is key for me on these new autotune/m-tronic saws. So far the Stihl seems to have the edge in reliability, as the Husy's have had carb issues that are in the process of being worked out, thanks to some smart guys on this forum. BUT - to be fair, Stihl's new m-tronic saws are newer and may yet develop some issues.
> 
> Are all the North American Stihl's made in US now?
> 
> ...



Don't worry, even if you get a "Yankee" saw, they run great!


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## MustangMike (Jan 29, 2014)

My instruction manual says the saw is 5.8 kg - 13 lbs. I don't think there is any difference in the saws, just rounding and translation differences. That's my opinion. Again, the brochure for the Canadian saw Made in Germany says 5.8 kg and my instruction manual for my USA saw also says 5.8 kg, but translates that to 13 lbs.


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## rburg (Jan 29, 2014)

Thanks for the review. I would like to run one of these models in the future. I have run a 261 cm and a 441 cm and they are both good runners. I think the rev boost feature is basically an increase in rpm for a 2 sec time period to help in limbing situations. The only auto tune model I own does not have the rev boost feature, but I don't believe it is needed cutting firewood.


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## MustangMike (Jan 29, 2014)

If Rev Boost does not exceed the Stihl RPM limit of 14,000, then why all the hype? Why would I want a saw that can do 14,000 for 2 or 3 seconds when I can get a saw that will do it all day long?


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## rburg (Jan 29, 2014)

It would exceed its top rpm for the 2 sec time by 2000 rpm if I remember correctly.


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## MountainHigh (Jan 29, 2014)

I'm going to drop into my local Cdn dealer later today and put their 362 M-tronic on the scale to verify weight.

Where on the saw do you see it saying Made in USA?

THanks


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## CapitaineHaddoc (Jan 29, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> My instruction manual says the saw is 5.8 kg - 13 lbs. I don't think there is any difference in the saws, just rounding and translation differences. That's my opinion. Again, the brochure for the Canadian saw Made in Germany says 5.8 kg and my instruction manual for my USA saw also says 5.8 kg, but translates that to 13 lbs.




The 560/562xp also turning to 14K/rpm all the time [email protected] without load.
Max RPM without load mean nothing. What's important is the speed that the saw can hold in the wood. We shall soon see which is the fastest, but they will probably be close! (although I think the Husky is the best 60cc saw on the market)


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## MustangMike (Jan 29, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> I'm going to drop into my local Cdn dealer later today and put their 362 M-tronic on the scale to verify weight.
> 
> Where on the saw do you see it saying Made in USA?
> 
> THanks





CapitaineHaddoc said:


> The 560/562xp also turning to 14K/rpm all the time [email protected] without load.
> Max RPM without load mean nothing. What's important is the speed that the saw can hold in the wood. We shall soon see which is the fastest, but they will probably be close! (although I think the Husky is the best 60cc saw on the market)



The sticker that says either Made in USA or Made in Germany is always on the front opposite the bar. My guess is it will be 13 lbs.


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## MustangMike (Jan 29, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> I'm going to drop into my local Cdn dealer later today and put their 362 M-tronic on the scale to verify weight.
> 
> Where on the saw do you see it saying Made in USA?
> 
> THanks





CapitaineHaddoc said:


> The 560/562xp also turning to 14K/rpm all the time [email protected] without load.
> Max RPM without load mean nothing. What's important is the speed that the saw can hold in the wood. We shall soon see which is the fastest, but they will probably be close! (although I think the Husky is the best 60cc saw on the market)



The sticker that says either Made in USA or Made in Germany is always on the front opposite the bar. My guess is it will be 13 lbs.


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## MustangMike (Jan 29, 2014)

CapitaineHaddoc said:


> The 560/562xp also turning to 14K/rpm all the time [email protected] without load.
> Max RPM without load mean nothing. What's important is the speed that the saw can hold in the wood. We shall soon see which is the fastest, but they will probably be close! (although I think the Husky is the best 60cc saw on the market)



I have heard great things about the 562 from people I trust, and I am also very impressed with the 362 C-M I have. Agree it should be close, don't think you can loose with either saw. Just hope we get a fair test, both saws broken in, same chain, same wood. If I had been forced to buy one before M-Tronic was on the 362 it would have been the 562 XP, no doubt about it.

Regarding speed "in the wood" peak Hp for the 362 is at 10,000 RPM, the 562 is at 9,600. The Stihl may have a slight edge due to that.


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## MountainHigh (Jan 29, 2014)

Fastest cutting speed, while nice, is not my primary desire on a new saw ... the best combination of reliability, durability and speed are, in that order.

imho, the 562xp looks sexiest, but when it comes down to me and the bears in the woods, the last thing you want to do is look sexy to a bear 

my 346xp has been a long lasting, snappy workhorse so at this stage I have to trust Husky has not deviated from their past reputation and the carb issues with the 562xp will get fixed, sooner or later.

Maybe I will have to buy both the 362 c-m and the 562xp to satisfy the urge  OMG - I've caught the disease!


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## chadihman (Jan 29, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> It says "carry out 5 uniform cuts to length under full load"
> 
> 
> Sent from my Autotune Carb


I put my 461 on the dyno and pulled it down pretty hard for 30 seconds then let it coo down then pulled it down again. I believe thats a good way to seat the rings.


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## MustangMike (Jan 29, 2014)

My 441 did not need any break in, cut strong from day one. For break in, I think pretty much just running it in the wood will do it. Some saws take longer than others. My brother has a 460, powerful saw.


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## Stihl99 (Jan 17, 2015)

I read your review nice job with it.


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## frontlinetrainer (Sep 25, 2015)

Opinions and suggestions wanted...
I killed my 290 and am in the process of repairing...in the mean time I need a saw NOW and wouldn't hurt to have a second saw anyhow. ...Now the big decision... MS261 C-M or MS 362 C-M or am I overkilling and will be fine with MS291.

These days I primarily get tri-axles delivered but do go in the woods from time to time. My everday logs don't usually run anymore than 22" max with most being 12-16". I cut approximately 10 cord a year.

I am a fan of buy it once and get the best but don't want to get TOO powerful of a saw if there is such a thing (would it hurt a saw to get a monster and not use it to it's full potential or does all that HP just help you cut faster?)

I'm kinda leaning towards 362 C-M...same weight I'm used too with my 290 but lot more power...and would give me the versatility I need for when I do go in the woods being it can take 16-25" bar.


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## bryanr2 (Sep 25, 2015)

frontlinetrainer said:


> Opinions and suggestions wanted...
> I killed my 290 and am in the process of repairing...in the mean time I need a saw NOW and wouldn't hurt to have a second saw anyhow. ...Now the big decision... MS261 C-M or MS 362 C-M or am I overkilling and will be fine with MS291.
> 
> These days I primarily get tri-axles delivered but do go in the woods from time to time. My everday logs don't usually run anymore than 22" max with most being 12-16". I cut approximately 10 cord a year.
> ...



Id buy a 2260 or 562xp from Tlandrum, Spike60, or FordF150 (in no particular order) if stuck on the 60cc bracket. Ive had a ported 362cm. I wouldnt own another one any longer than it took to sell it. If your ok with a clean used saw, Id grab TBrowns minty Stihl 460 in the classifieds for $6 bills and change, or find a 044. You'd be hard pressed to find a cleaner 70's cc saw for the little money TBrown is after for his. Ive done business with him, and would not hesitate to do it again.


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## MustangMike (Sep 25, 2015)

I do like my 362 C, and choose to get one over a 261 C. That said, if you can find a nice used 10 mm 044 the addl power is worth little bit of extra wt. The 046/460/461 s are all nice saws, but weigh a good amount more (I would not want to limb with one for an extended period).

It often depends on what I am cutting. If the wood is green and not super hard, the 362 feels like an animal, but if the wood is dry and very tough, I really prefer the 044.

I also prefer the air filtration and internal clutch on the 362 (compared to the Husky & JRed counterparts). Regarding performance, my 362 (before it was ported) held its own against a 560 at the NY Summer GTG, and it was filmed by Lootbug if you want to watch it. Both saws had muffler mods & square file chain.

Good luck with your choice.


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## LRains (Sep 25, 2015)

For 16 inch wood a MS362 would fit that fine with power to spare, the 044 is a great saw but the refinement of AV and fuel will pay for it self.


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## SAWMIKAZE (Sep 25, 2015)

Grate thread !


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## LRains (Sep 25, 2015)

I normally don't like leading another into a purchase, I have been debating a MS 661 and of course reading reviews !! Back to focus, my dad has cut more firewood with a Homelite XL 12 than a lumberJack the thing won't die !! 15-18 cords per year since 1982 !! Granted now he seems to grab my newer saws over his. he has no furnace so wood is his only heat and for a 68 year old he is just now catching up to the newer stuff. But I'm sure it will be a cold day before he would admit that. Buy what you can afford and use it, As a wood burners we can't be choosers between feeding our family's and cutting a log.


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## MustangMike (Sep 26, 2015)

I have a friend my age who also still uses one, and he won't give it up because it just won't die! Ironically, he is also into high performance motorcycles, and I keep teasing him that I'm going to make him start riding an old slow bike!

But I agree with your point, if you have something that works for you, that is what matters, nothing else.


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