# Stihl 015AV



## fogelber (Jul 12, 2011)

A few years ago, I came across an older Stihl 015AV that I got for $50. I have been able to keep it running and replace most of the older, worn out parts. It's been a blast tinkering with it and I've learned a ton about engines. It's really the perfect saw for my needs. It does have some problems though. First off, the cut-off switch has never worked. I've heard that's pretty common. I just choke it out when I want to turn it off or pull the spark wire off. It's a bit of a pain. My saw has the old points and condenser. I've tried putting a new spring on the cut-off switch, but to no avail. To fix it, would I need to replace the points and condenser? Could I swap it out with an electronic ignition chip? It also doesn't like to idle too terribly long. I'm thinking it's the carb, since I've never cleaned it and don't know when it was last done. Is that hard to do? I guess I've been hesitant to try it out of fear of ruining the carb. Finally, the chain keeps spinning, slowly, even in idle. I've replace the spring around the clutch and that helped slow it down, but didn't fix the problem. Do I need new clutch shoes at this point, or is it just something I've got to live with? My last question is about porting the muffler. I've read that that is a way to get a little more horsepower out of the saw. Has anyone ever done that on an 015 av? How would I do that?


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## wudpirat (Jul 12, 2011)

*015 av*

a I  my little 015.
Bought it new in '75 for $149.99 and it has served me well, I cut a lot of firewood and some large trees also.
Had some issues as can be expected, plug wire, carb rebuild , crank seals, points/condenser.
The points and condenser were replaced as a unit, mounted on a plate I got from the Stihl dealer, seems the pivot on the points wears and screws up the timing, new points will not corect the problem as the contacts are missalined.
I did change out the 1/4" chain for a LP 3/8", Sprocket, oil pump drive and bar and chain. It really changed the character of the saw esp. when running a Non safety chain.
The little 015 doesn't get the use it had before I accuried the other nine saws in my stable. (dam CAD ) The Mac 10s and the 6400, 7900 are reserved for the big jobs. 
The 015 is a great saw and I would keep it running as long as posible, Handy when you need a little bit more than a bow saw.

FREDM


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## malce (Jan 9, 2012)

*015*

Hi, please advise what you did to the plastic oil pump drive to make the 3/8 sprocket fit instead of the 1/4, I am trying to fit one at the moment but obviously the 1/4 drive will only fit the 1/4 slot in the plastic wheel.
regards
malcolm

here it the chilly UK


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## redunshee (Jan 9, 2012)

malce said:


> Hi, please advise what you did to the plastic oil pump drive to make the 3/8 sprocket fit instead of the 1/4, I am trying to fit one at the moment but obviously the 1/4 drive will only fit the 1/4 slot in the plastic wheel.
> regards
> malcolm
> 
> here it the chilly UK



You need the 3/8 oil pump gear. MIght still be available from your Stihl dealer


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## redunshee (Jan 9, 2012)

fogelber said:


> A few years ago, I came across an older Stihl 015AV that I got for $50. I have been able to keep it running and replace most of the older, worn out parts. It's been a blast tinkering with it and I've learned a ton about engines. It's really the perfect saw for my needs. It does have some problems though. First off, the cut-off switch has never worked. I've heard that's pretty common. I just choke it out when I want to turn it off or pull the spark wire off. It's a bit of a pain. My saw has the old points and condenser. I've tried putting a new spring on the cut-off switch, but to no avail. To fix it, would I need to replace the points and condenser? Could I swap it out with an electronic ignition chip? It also doesn't like to idle too terribly long. I'm thinking it's the carb, since I've never cleaned it and don't know when it was last done. Is that hard to do? I guess I've been hesitant to try it out of fear of ruining the carb. Finally, the chain keeps spinning, slowly, even in idle. I've replace the spring around the clutch and that helped slow it down, but didn't fix the problem. Do I need new clutch shoes at this point, or is it just something I've got to live with? My last question is about porting the muffler. I've read that that is a way to get a little more horsepower out of the saw. Has anyone ever done that on an 015 av? How would I do that?



Don't understand why a new cutoff spring won't shut down saw. It should. Its only a flat metal spring. You can use a chip but I do see points and condensors on Ebay occassionly. However if the saw starts and runs I don't think you need points. Have you tried adjusting the idle screw on the carb? That's your frist step in stopping the chain. Try rebuilding the carb. That may solve most of your idle issues.


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## redunshee (Jan 9, 2012)

You can enlarge the holes inthe diffuser plateand the holes in the muffler cover.. That should help exhaust flow better. It will certainly make it louder


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## wudpirat (Jan 9, 2012)

*015 av*

Yes, the oil pump gear has to match clutch sprocket, 1/4" for 1/4" and 3/8" for 3/8" chain. One of the reasons I changed to 3/8"LP was that 1/4" chain was getting deficult to find and the price. I was running a 72 DL bar. The 3/8" runs a 50DL bar.
The 015 is a great little saw and I have cut some big stuff, it was not ment to cut everything. 
You got big stuff, get a big saw.
Yesterday I dropped and bucked a 30" Maple snag using my Dolmar 7900, like a hot knife through butter. Latter I was tuning up the Craftsman 50cc 20" and tried a couple of cuts. What a difference. I could bog the Craftsman in a cut that the Dolmar never, even leaning into it.
Little saws are fun but the have their limitations.
Looking for a replacement air filter for the 015 AV, got pantyhose wrapted around mine.

FREDM, 
(wood pirate)


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## mt.stalker (Jan 9, 2012)

Most of the pre-1990's chainsaws have low restriction mufflers , so MM'ds aren't neccessary .


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## redunshee (Jan 9, 2012)

mt.stalker said:


> Most of the pre-1990's chainsaws have low restriction mufflers , so MM'ds aren't neccessary .



I would agree with that but I find the enlarging the difusser hole and the cover holes gives it a mite more zip.


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## Guido Salvage (Jan 9, 2012)

I have an 015 with the optional hedge trimmer, the original case and the 2 operators manuals.


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## fogelber (Feb 2, 2012)

redunshee said:


> Don't understand why a new cutoff spring won't shut down saw. It should. Its only a flat metal spring. You can use a chip but I do see points and condensors on Ebay occassionly. However if the saw starts and runs I don't think you need points. Have you tried adjusting the idle screw on the carb? That's your frist step in stopping the chain. Try rebuilding the carb. That may solve most of your idle issues.



Thanks! I'll tinker with the idle screw, and maybe attempt a rebuild. Have you ever heard of the kill swtich lead wire going bad? I see them pop up on eBay every so often. Don't know that it's a big deal. If I can fix it though, I'd love to. Just adds to the fun! Something else I've always wondered: to remove the flywheel, do I need a flywheel puller, or can I get it off some other way?


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## redunshee (Feb 3, 2012)

fogelber said:


> Thanks! I'll tinker with the idle screw, and maybe attempt a rebuild. Have you ever heard of the kill swtich lead wire going bad? I see them pop up on eBay every so often. Don't know that it's a big deal. If I can fix it though, I'd love to. Just adds to the fun! Something else I've always wondered: to remove the flywheel, do I need a flywheel puller, or can I get it off some other way?



Yea, if a kill switch lead wire is bad the saw won't shut off. Howevr the 015 doesn't have a lead wire as I recall, just the flat spring that grounds out the saw when pushed. Haven't taken my 015 apart in a couple years so I'm a little hazy. I've had good luck removing flywheels by putting the nut back on the flywheel until its flush with the top of the crankshaft. I then tap(hit) the nut with a hammer. Usually the flywheel simply pops up. There are pullers but I've never used one. If its really tight I spray with WD40.


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## malce (Feb 3, 2012)

*Stihl 015*

I am unable to buy a 3/8 oil pump gear anywhere in the UK, it is like living in a third world country when you try to buy spares for anything a bit unusual, so if anyone out there has one spare please advise if you could sell me it.
I have just converted a Stihl 038avsuper to magnum for the serious stuff and it works great.


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## fogelber (Feb 3, 2012)

Hey malce, there are some on ebay right now. NEW STIHL 015 CHAINSAW OILER DRIVE SPUR GEAR 3/8" PICCO PART # 1116-647-1801 | eBay

redunshee, this is what feared I would need to get the flywheel off: 025 029 039 009 011 012 015 MS 361 310 390 191 170 Stihl Flywheel Puller *New* | eBay

I will try what you suggested!


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## Glockmaster16 (Feb 4, 2012)

*Stihl 015AV Kill Switch*

The front of the spring on the sliding kill switch stays in contact with the body of the saw. When you slide the switch forward to stop the saw, the rear of the spring on the switch makes contact with the wire that connects to the points, thus shorting to ground causing the saw to stop. This wire does go bad and in my experience I believe it is usually at the point where the rear of the switch makes contact. The replacement of this wire is no easy task. You have to remove the side cover where the recoil starter is located and then remove the flywheel, dust cover for the points, points and then remove the side screw that connects the coil wire and the kill switch wire. Now remove the kill switch wire from the bottom using a small screwdriver to help push the rubber grommet through the saw from the top. That is the easy part. Install the new wire from the top through the saw and install the rubber grommet into the saw. Make sure the wire in not seated into the grommet as this restricts the amout the grommet collapses and makes insertion into the saw harder. Also a little lube will help. Be careful while doing this as the screwdriver can rip or tear the grommet and even cut the wire. No matter how you look at it, it takes time, so don't get in a hurry . Now I just finished doing this and had success. The kill switch worked as it should. On my second 015 that the kill switch didn't work, I did everything as above but did not take out the wire. I put a meter on the wire and it showed an open. I then pulled the wire out through the grommet about 3 inches and soldiered the connector and wire together where the rear of the spring will make contact. I then put a meter back on the wire and now it had continuity. Yahoo!! You may even crimp the connector first to see if this helps. If I have another kill switch problem, I'm going to soilder the wire in place without taking everything off except the recoil cover so as just to get to the wire. Hope this helps.


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## sefh3 (Feb 4, 2012)

fogelber said:


> A few years ago, I came across an older Stihl 015AV that I got for $50. I have been able to keep it running and replace most of the older, worn out parts. It's been a blast tinkering with it and I've learned a ton about engines. It's really the perfect saw for my needs. It does have some problems though. First off, the cut-off switch has never worked. I've heard that's pretty common. I just choke it out when I want to turn it off or pull the spark wire off. It's a bit of a pain. My saw has the old points and condenser. I've tried putting a new spring on the cut-off switch, but to no avail. To fix it, would I need to replace the points and condenser? Could I swap it out with an electronic ignition chip? It also doesn't like to idle too terribly long. I'm thinking it's the carb, since I've never cleaned it and don't know when it was last done. Is that hard to do? I guess I've been hesitant to try it out of fear of ruining the carb. Finally, the chain keeps spinning, slowly, even in idle. I've replace the spring around the clutch and that helped slow it down, but didn't fix the problem. Do I need new clutch shoes at this point, or is it just something I've got to live with? My last question is about porting the muffler. I've read that that is a way to get a little more horsepower out of the saw. Has anyone ever done that on an 015 av? How would I do that?



More than likely the wire is bad. Your not to far from me and I have some extra parts for that saw. You can elimanate the points and use a Nova module and make it electronic. PM if you need help.


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## malce (Feb 5, 2012)

*Stihl oli gear*

Hi, thanks for that, but he will not post internationally, and I cannot email him via ebay for some reason, I would come over but cannot afford it at the moment!
Malce:frown:


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## Fish (Feb 5, 2012)

I can get it for you, and pop it in the mail.


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## malce (Feb 5, 2012)

*Stihl oli gear*

That would be great, how can I pay you?
What a silly question, I did not read all of your post and see the bit about ebay!
If you could get it for me and list it I will buy it off your ebay site, just let me know and do a buy it know.


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## Fish (Feb 5, 2012)

Paypal works good. I clear out some p.m.s. I will check in the morning to see if I can find one locally, and cheaper.


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## malce (Feb 5, 2012)

*Stihl oli gear*

Ok, any way you can.
malce


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## Fish (Feb 5, 2012)

Stihl 11166471801 SPUR GEAR-3/8" PICCO - Stihl Parts 1116 007 1005 Thru 1126 162 3000

Here's a cheaper one online.


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## malce (Feb 5, 2012)

*Stihl oil gear*

Hi, I have tried to buy off them before but they will not ship to the UK either, but if you can get one for me then I can pay you via paypal.
malce


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## Fish (Feb 5, 2012)

I'll check some other sources tomorrow.


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## Glockmaster16 (Feb 5, 2012)

*Quick Fix On A Stihl 015 Kill Switch*

Well I just acquired another Stihl 015 saw in great shape except that the kill switch did not work. Great I thought, now I can try out a quick fix I talked about earlier. After removing the starter recoil cover, I then removed the throttle linkage and then the kill switch. The switch was in great shape. I then took a pair of mini needle nose pliers and pulled the kill switch wire at the contact out of the grommet about 1-1 1/2 inches. Then I soldered the wire and contact together after crimping the two. When the wire and contact were cool to the touch, I checked the wire with a meter and now I had continuity. I then installed the kill switch, throttle linkage and the recoil starter cover. I pulled the spark plug out and installed it into the spark plug wire. I attached a lead to the saw and the other end to the side electrode of the plug so as to have a good ground. With the kill switch off(back) I pulled the starter rope and got a nice blue spark. Now I placed the kill switch to stop (forward) and pulled the starter rope and got no spark. I did this several times to make sure the quick fix worked. I am very happy with this procedure and will try this first before replacing the kill switch wire, which by no means is an easy task. This procedure is cost effective, less time consuming and easy.


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## malce (Feb 9, 2012)

*Stihl 015*

Hi, do not bother yourself looking around for a cheaper one, the price from Norwalk power is okay, just let me know the price with p&p and the email address you want the money sending to, and I will send it to you via paypal.
malce


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## Fish (Feb 9, 2012)

wudpirat said:


> got pantyhose wrapted around mine.
> 
> FREDM,
> (wood pirate)



Me too brother!!!!!!! I do chit like that in the winter.....


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## Fish (Feb 9, 2012)

malce said:


> Hi, do not bother yourself looking around for a cheaper one, the price from Norwalk power is okay, just let me know the price with p&p and the email address you want the money sending to, and I will send it to you via paypal.
> malce



I ordered on through the Bardstown dealer...

I will pick it up tomorrow.....


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## malce (Feb 9, 2012)

*Stihl oil gear*

okay, no problem


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## malce (Mar 5, 2012)

*Stihl 015*

Hi, I take it you have lost interest in getting it for me?


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## fogelber (Apr 25, 2012)

*Update on my endeavours*

Well, it's been awhile, and aside from using the saw to help with some storm cleanup, I've had it my shed and I completely broke it down. I did buy an electronic ignition chip and successfully converted the saw to electronic ignition. I also got the kill switch working again. When I had the saw opened up, I was able to re-seat the wire and get it making good contact with the spring. That and the combination of converting it to electronic ignition got it working again. I put on a brand new sprocket, a new fuel line, a new recoil spring, and a new starter rope. I just got a carb rebuild kit in the mail and I will be rebuilding the carb as soon as I can find a few free hours. Then it will be time to reassemble the old girl and test it all out!


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## fogelber (Apr 28, 2012)

*Carb Adjustment/New Sprocket Issue*

Well, as I stated, I rebuilt the carb and put on a new clutch drum/sprocket. Today, I made my first attempt at adjusting the carb. Per my manual, I screwed the High and Low screws out 3/4 of a turn from a slightly seated position. Then, I tried to make the fine tuning adjustments, and while I felt like I was able to get the Low set correctly, when I went to set the idle, I couldn't get the clutch to disengage, no matter how low I set the idle. It seems like the clutch and drum are bound up. When I shut the saw off, I was able to turn the clutch by trying to spin the drum. So, I took it all back off, and made sure the thrust washer was on correctly and it was. The drum spins fine until I reinstall the clutch, and then they seem to get stuck together. Is this symtomatic of a new clutch drum that just needs to get "broken in" in a bit? Has anyone run into a poolry fitting new sprocket like this before? I replace the spring that holds on the two clutch shoes last summer, so I know that is plenty strong. I figure I can get the saw running and use it, but I don't like the idea of the chain continuing to spin even at idle. It would suck to put it down and run into the chain or something. Any advice would definitely be appreciated. This is the first time I've ever tried to adjust a carb, so it's totally possible I'm doing it wrong.


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## fogelber (Apr 30, 2012)

*Oops*

I determined that the thrust washer was the issue. It had gotten slightly deformed somehow, so when I tightened down the clunch, the washer was getting bound up with the clutch drum. I pounded it back into shape and now the clutch drum spins freely. Then I set about attempting to adjust the carb again, and eventually gave up when the saw wouldn't start anymore. I watched a few videos on carb rebuilds and realized I made a few mistakes. So, I'll be tearing the saw down again and starting over. The adventure continues...


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## sefh3 (Apr 30, 2012)

What mistakes did you find after watching some videos? It sounded like you had it running.


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## fogelber (Apr 30, 2012)

sefh3 said:


> What mistakes did you find after watching some videos? It sounded like you had it running.



I didn't push the screen back down into it's housing on the fuel pump side. Total rookie mistake. It appeared to be larger than the housing, so I left it loose over the top of the hole. Then, I need to make sure I put the correct circuit plate/gasket on the other side. I couldn't figure out why there were two in the kit when only one was in there. Read up on it, and while I think I got it right, I just want to double-check. There was a small rubber duck bill valve in the kit I had that I couldn't figure out what to do with, and a small "C" clip. The parts breakdown described a small screen that should be under the circuit plate, but I couldn't see one and couldn't get the old clip out. I don't remember seeing a second, smaller screen in the kit I got. 

When I first got it running and tried adjusting the carb, I couldn't get it to accelerate. It would die as soon as I gave it the gas. I could get it to idle, but that was about it. This is all a learning process for me. If you have any advice, I would love to hear it!


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## sefh3 (Apr 30, 2012)

It sounds like your on the right track. The kit is a complete universal kit. It comes with more than you need for your carb but the extras will fit a different carb.


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## WoodBossAddict (Nov 2, 2015)

I'm performing the exact opposite. Taking the modern day Stihl MS 150 TC travel back in time. Installing a 72DL bar from ole school Stihl 015 and guess what guys? 72DL DOESN'T MATCH UP.. Needs to be at least 2 DL longer if not more? I'll keep you good posted.. For a $500 top handle it better scream when I'm done!


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## HarleyT (Nov 2, 2015)

So they make a 1/4" sprocket to fit it?


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## WoodBossAddict (Nov 3, 2015)

HarleyT said:


> So they make a 1/4" sprocket to fit it?


Yes a modern day Stihl MS 150 TC or TCE comes standard with a 1/4" pitch bar and sprocket.. But it's a wanna be pointy carving bar instead of the regular standard tree climbers 14" round nose bar.


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## No face 243 (Sep 8, 2016)

I acquired a stihl 015 av and really love the saw. My father in law has had his forever and loves it and I have used it since I met him and think it's a great saw. So I jumped at the opportunity to own one. Is it really worth fixing it when it has ignition issues in with the points and condenser? I have no issue doing the work on it, however when I go to the stihl dealer they try and talk me out of the saw. Are they just trying to sell newer saws or are they really not as great as I'm thinking they are? Or is it time to find a better stihl dealer?


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## malce (Sep 8, 2016)

No face 243 said:


> I acquired a stihl 015 av and really love the saw. My father in law has had his forever and loves it and I have used it since I met him and think it's a great saw. So I jumped at the opportunity to own one. Is it really worth fixing it when it has ignition issues in with the points and condenser? I have no issue doing the work on it, however when I go to the stihl dealer they try and talk me out of the saw. Are they just trying to sell newer saws or are they really not as great as I'm thinking they are? Or is it time to find a better stihl dealer?



I changed mine to a electronic chip works great, easy enough job to do as long as you can get the flywheel off.


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