# brush cutter blades



## Lloyd H (Jun 21, 2008)

Anyone have experience with using circle saw blades for brush cutters? Seems like brush blades are way out of line in price. Is it low volume or are they that different? I have had one brush blade break cutting small saplings (not a circle saw blade but a real brush blade) so I'm a little cautious, but still tight azz with the bucks. I thought a good quality 7 1/4 carbide blade should be as tough as anything?


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## Texas Traveler (Jun 21, 2008)

Lloyd H said:


> Anyone have experience with using circle saw blades for brush cutters? Seems like brush blades are way out of line in price. Is it low volume or are they that different? I have had one brush blade break cutting small saplings (not a circle saw blade but a real brush blade) so I'm a little cautious, but still tight azz with the bucks. I thought a good quality 7 1/4 carbide blade should be as tough as anything?


 I have used 12 inch Dewalt carbide tipped miter blades & they have 1 inch arbor holes, but 10 inch would work better . If you can get adaptors for the arbor holes.
The 12 inch blades try to take off like a P-51 Mustang on steroids, but they are controllable with practice


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## stihl sawing (Jun 21, 2008)

I use a beaver blade on my FS-250, Just got through useing it and it will cut small trees4 to 5 inches in diameter. It basically is a chainsaw chain mounted on a wheel. Works good. It's kinda heavy though. Don't know how it would work on a smaller brushcutter.


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## tomtrees58 (Jun 21, 2008)

stihl sawing said:


> I use a beaver blade on my FS-250, Just got through using it and it will cut small trees4 to 5 inches in diameter. It basically is a chainsaw chain mounted on a wheel. Works good. It's kinda heavy though. Don't know how it would work on a smaller brushcutter.



me to dont be so cheap tom trees


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## lawnmowertech37 (Jun 22, 2008)

Lloyd H said:


> Anyone have experience with using circle saw blades for brush cutters? Seems like brush blades are way out of line in price. Is it low volume or are they that different? I have had one brush blade break cutting small saplings (not a circle saw blade but a real brush blade) so I'm a little cautious, but still tight azz with the bucks. I thought a good quality 7 1/4 carbide blade should be as tough as anything?



Question where is the price to out of line at which store ?


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## HiOctane (Jun 22, 2008)

Try to install a Maxi Windsor blade.You gonna need an 8 inches dia if you got a small cc engine.Measure your arbor shaft size.Should cost less than $20.00.


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## Haywire Haywood (Jun 22, 2008)

I used a cheepie carbide circular saw blade for a brush cutter once. The teeth ended up bending. I had one of those Beaver Blades too and it worked well, even on thick grass (hay field waist high stuff). I loaned it out once and I think they used it for a trenching tool. I just threw it away when they brought it back. I had the 10" and needed the 8" for my 32cc trimmer anyway.

Ian


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## Lloyd H (Jun 22, 2008)

*brush blades*

Everywhere I happened onto for price, when you consider a brush blade can leave any kind of finish, all that counts is brush severed and they are twice or more than cirlcle saw blades of comparable sizes Prices I saw were $20 and up, the beaver blade is$30 plus, although I think it would be superior to anything else. Does the Beaver blade allow the saw chain to slip on the rim of the disk? If so it would ease kick back a little. Lawnmowertech couldn't find brush blades on CMS site


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## Haywire Haywood (Jun 22, 2008)

No, it doesn't slip on the disk. I never had a problem with kickback, although I wouldn't recommend any steel brush blade unless you have the wide handlebar type brush cutter. 

Ian


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## Texas Traveler (Jun 22, 2008)

Haywire Haywood said:


> No, it doesn't slip on the disk. I never had a problem with kickback, although I wouldn't recommend any steel brush blade unless you have the wide handlebar type brush cutter.
> 
> Ian


They are all dangerous, in fact I would not let anyone within 50 feet of one in use.
The first time I used one, cutting back pampas grass that I was moving.
It spun me around like crazy & left me with a case of weakknee's. Because I was not expecting such a kickback.

The most important thing is the arbor hole size on using saw blades.
I have used 12 inch blades on FS80s & 85s with no trouble.
I don't remember which one, but I had to use a 3/4 inch brass hole addaptor on one.
But remember, you do have a double handful of some serious #### at the end of that ignorant stick.


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## Ed*L (Jun 22, 2008)

Lloyd H said:


> Anyone have experience with using circle saw blades for brush cutters? Seems like brush blades are way out of line in price. Is it low volume or are they that different? I have had one brush blade break cutting small saplings (not a circle saw blade but a real brush blade) so I'm a little cautious, but still tight azz with the bucks. I thought a good quality 7 1/4 carbide blade should be as tough as anything?



The Maxi saw blades are different. They are designed to be sharpened with a 7/32 chainsaw file in the field.
You will have to pay to have a circular saw blade sharpend or just pitch it when it gets dull.
Since you always hit a rock within the first minute of cutting with a new blade, the circular saw blade cost will add up in a hurry.

Ed


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## lawnmowertech37 (Jun 22, 2008)

Lloyd H said:


> Everywhere I happened onto for price, when you consider a brush blade can leave any kind of finish, all that counts is brush severed and they are twice or more than cirlcle saw blades of comparable sizes Prices I saw were $20 and up, the beaver blade is$30 plus, although I think it would be superior to anything else. Does the Beaver blade allow the saw chain to slip on the rim of the disk? If so it would ease kick back a little. Lawnmowertech couldn't find brush blades on CMS site



the reason is i have not gotten that far yet still working on that oregon catalog on our site between taking care of family members working on units and all i think im going to find time at night time to add products 


right now i have some old Green Machine blades 4 sided and 3 sided ones im thinking of putting them on clearance sale 

but them are the old style ones antique 

also have some shindaiwa 4 sided 

which is not on the store 


as soon as the new updated upgraded site gets to go live then i will start adding these products 

this coming Friday is when i am planning on releasing it to go Live status 
calvin


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## stihl sawing (Jun 22, 2008)

Haywire Haywood said:


> No, it doesn't slip on the disk. I never had a problem with kickback, although I wouldn't recommend any steel brush blade unless you have the wide handlebar type brush cutter.
> 
> Ian


+1 on everything.


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## teacherman (Jun 22, 2008)

I have a Shindaiwa T-20 that is dedicated brush cutter with an 8" blade. I have three blades, two Stihl and one Aardvark, all the same, like 80 teeth. It is a crazy thing to use, but it lets me hack brush an small trees out of an inaccessible space between a shed and a fence. It definitely takes some getting used to. Much larger and I think the blade might have a gyroscopic momentum that would be very weird to use. Might take off and go into orbit with very unpredictable results...........


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## Fish (Jun 22, 2008)

Lloyd H said:


> but still tight azz .




Hmmmmmmnnn

How tight?


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## gtread (Jun 22, 2008)

I use a little Echo straight shaft with a 9 inch carbide blade, and it is a work horse.
Have used it over a year and a half clearing oak savannas and prairies.
It will cut grass, weeds, small honeysuckle, small buckthorn etc. up to 3/4"
Even dig into the ground to get it good and low.

Still cuts very well. this is a great tool. but keep away from dumb people!
Because this is a very dangerous tool.
I have hit stones, steel, etc. and have never lost a tooth.
And my little Echo still runs like a charm. She gets a lot of very hard use.

gtread.


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## lawnmowertech37 (Jun 22, 2008)

gtread said:


> I use a little Echo straight shaft with a 9 inch carbide blade, and it is a work horse.
> Have used it over a year and a half clearing oak savannas and prairies.
> It will cut grass, weeds, small honeysuckle, small buckthorn etc. up to 3/4"
> Even dig into the ground to get it good and low.
> ...



just curious is it a SRM-200 series ?


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## jhellwig (Jun 22, 2008)

I have used the scratcher style stihl blade and the chisel blade. The chisel blade is awesome and not that bad on price.

http://www.stihlusa.com/trimmers/blades.html


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## Lloyd H (Jun 23, 2008)

*brush blades*

Anybody got a good idea on drilling out 5/8 hole to 1 inch, haven't tried it yet but may just make a new blade adapter for 5/8???


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## Urbicide (Jun 23, 2008)

Please be careful. Most circular saw blades are not rated for the rpm's that a brush cutter can turn. A shattered blade could really mess up one's day.


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## stihl sawing (Jun 23, 2008)

Urbicide said:


> Please be careful. Most circular saw blades are not rated for the rpm's that a brush cutter can turn. A shattered blade could really mess up one's day.


Never thought about that, One of them could mess ya up in a hurry. Best to stay with the ones that are recommended for brushcutters.


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## gtread (Jun 23, 2008)

*Brushcutter*

Yes Lawnmowertech37.
I have an Echo SRM210 straight shaft with 9" carbide blade as I recall I think it is a Tanaka sells for about $50. and well worth it. it has a one inch arbor hole. some echo dealers carry the 1" replacement arbors, or use a bushing to shim. they are available on the net through carbide concrete saw blade dealers.
Hope that helps.
gtread


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## FishCo (Aug 3, 2008)

*Seeking Blade Comparison Info*

Does anyone have experience with using both the Beaver Blade and Maxi Blade (http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?skw=Maxi+Blade&PageNo=1) ?

I have the 9" Beaver Blade and it has worked great. However, the teeth are approaching the point of being too worn to be sharpened anymore (I have hit a few rocks and I think a nail or wire in some small saplings) and I am looking to purchase a new blade. The Maxi Blade is about 1/2 the price, which is attractive if the performance is close to or equal to the Beaver Blade.

If anyone who has used both and can comment, I would appreciate it.


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## brush (Feb 7, 2009)

Windsor recommends the Maxi pattern brushcutter blade for 40cc gas brushcutters and XRT for smaller engines -
http://www.windsorforestry.com/products/blades/clearing_blades.shtm

while Oregon is just the opposite, recommends the Maxi blade for smaller 24cc engines and the XRT for the larger engines.
http://shopping.aol.com/oregon-22-tooth-8-brush-blade-41-934/97347991/details

What's up - any thoughts and experiences for why the difference ? Thanks in advance.


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## Nailgunner (Feb 7, 2009)

> remember, you do have a double handful of some serious #### at the end of that ignorant stick.


best chat-up line EVER! 

Sorry, as you were. I tried stainless steel blades on a brushcutter, they cut grass brilliantly until one buckled, and that was that. back to nylon line.


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## brush (Feb 7, 2009)

Haywire Haywood said:


> . . . I had one of those Beaver Blades too and it worked well, even on thick grass (hay field waist high stuff).
> . . . I had the 10" and needed the 8" for my 32cc trimmer anyway.



I think I'm going to just get the beaver blade - 
After thinking about it after reading stories of parts of steel blades chipping and flying off
after inadvertently hitting rock or maybe a bit of barbed wire or sometin',
I'll just feel safer with the chainsaw type blade.

There's enough vibration with the cutting at the end of a long stick - 
and less chance of kickback with the chainsaw teeth.

and btw, check out *this* insanity with a brushcutter -
- in shorts, no eye protection, and in the water -
(he steps into deeper water toward the end) :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmwaXqcnvRo&feature=related


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## A. Stanton (Feb 8, 2009)

I use the the Beaver blade at the moment, the one with the chain-saw teeth. Easy to sharper, but I don't think it likes the small stuff. Had one tooth break off when I must of hit a rock. They come in recommended different diameters depending about the cc of your machine. I think they are easier to sharpen than the black blades than are sold. I have to have the black ones sharpen by a retired tool maker--my fil.


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## Frank Boyer (Feb 8, 2009)

We have Scotch Broom that gats up to 3" diameter,usually around an inch. Beaver blades are the way to go. Keep them sharp and they will cut from grass to saplings.
My neighbor had a plain steel blade come apart and hit his leg hard enough to break the bone. Think safety.


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## bbanddog (Nov 29, 2011)

*Carbide Brushcutter Bladess are better than a BEAVER blade for many reasons*



Lloyd H said:


> Everywhere I happened onto for price, when you consider a brush blade can leave any kind of finish, all that counts is brush severed and they are twice or more than cirlcle saw blades of comparable sizes Prices I saw were $20 and up, the beaver blade is$30 plus, although I think it would be superior to anything else. Does the Beaver blade allow the saw chain to slip on the rim of the disk? If so it would ease kick back a little. Lawnmowertech couldn't find brush blades on CMS site



I found the BEAVER blade too thick (fat), therefore its cut had a wider cut-swath that added lots of frustrating friction. It was prone to siezing in green tree limbs. It was not versatile like a CARBIDE BRUSHCUTTER BLADE in that it could not do multiple jobs like: (1) hedge, (2) prune the flexible bendable tips of bushes and trees very well, nor (3) brush cut or bramble hack well, but ONLY cut semi thick tree limbs ONLY sort of well (very limited design and function). The CARBIDE BRUSHCUTTER BLADES I use do it "ALL" so I don't have to change blade types all the time adding to the TIME COST of the job. It is not just the cost of the blade and how long it stays sharp, but the "TIME" it takes to re-sharpen and the "TIME" to change blades for versatility, that when added to the initial cost of the blade is the real true "OVERALL COST" of the blade used. Additionally, the BEAVER has a chain around the outside of the blade which like a CHAINSAW CHAIN (uh, can you say problematic). It has multiple moving parts known as LINKS and the necessary RIVETS connecting each link that add FRICTION on the sides of the chain. That's right, a chainsaw chain only has teeth on the top of the chain with lots of friction rivet heads on the sides at each LINK. Who needs added FRICTION from the rivets on the side of the chain in your cut swath, I don't... When I used the BEAVER BLADE I found it needed OIL to stay slippery just like my chian saw, which was a hassle and added oil cost to my blade cost (with oil I got less friction). Adding insult to injury, a Beaver Blade has "plain ordinary steel" teeth that dull in a snap just like my chain saw does, so out comes the round file to mess with filing the teeth to keep it sharp (yuk!). More time and hassle, no thanks. The Beaver Blade costs a lot of money and all you get is about 25 teeth (if that) as the total aggregate cutting surface offered as compared to the 80 to 100 teeth "CARBIDE BRUSHCUTTER BLADES" I use. So in short, a Beaver costs too much in every way. I should add that I have used the "Plain Steel" Echo or Stihl blades as well and they dull out like the BEAVER in that "PLAIN STEEL" dulls in 15 minutes or less. Fact is, CARBIDE lasts 10 times longer but is not 10x more in cost, not even double (actually less!). The Carbidebrushcutterblades I buy are actually about 12 to 15 bucks a piece so you can throw then away three times over before you get to the cost of one BEAVER Blade. The Carbide Brushcutter Blades cost way less than the $23 for the Stihl or Echo 80 teeth "plain steel" and last 10x longer so there ya go... I have used and recommend 80 to 100 teeth Garden Trimmer -- Weed Whacker Blades for less grabbing, tearing and yanking than any 20 or 40 teeth blade since deep larger teeth blades don't have carbide down in their teeth valley gaps. 80 to 100 teeth delivers less siezing and is better for hedging (they hedge better than my clackity plain steel teeth hedger any day of the week), and for more aggregate cutting surface at the cut. So how can you beat that many cutting tips for the money? I say, spread the cut over 100 CARBIDE teeth instead of over 25 PLAIN STEEL for 1/3 the cost, as why the BEAVER "does NOT cut it" and the pun is intended. CARBIDE is the way to go, period. We are not allowed to mention any websites on here so I won't but they are on the web.


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## w8ye (Nov 29, 2011)

Some years ago I acquired a 8" 8 tooth saw blade on a not running Mac weed whacker. I came across this device this past summer and installed it on a running Mac 32 straight shaft bike handle trimmer mainly because the adapter fit.

I looked at installing it on my Echo SRM 2400 and Stihl FS 55 straight shaft trimmers but the adapter flanges would not fit.

These blades appear to be common on the Internet.

It works nice on the heavy weed stems, briar's, and tree sprouts.

It was dull and I sharpened it with a smooth edge raker file. I blended the fillets with a rat tail file.

There's a lot of inertia in the blade. You should speed it up slowly and keep the speed up. When done, back off the speed slowly.


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## dingeryote (Nov 29, 2011)

That Beaver blade is hideous. I see why it motivated bbanddog to plaster up a wall of text...

Been running a couple Forrester saw chain blades for a while now, and they actually work as advertised, and hold up better than I figured.
Just cutter links riveted to the disk so the kerf is wide enough not to drag like the silly Beaver thing.

Best part is the round file will touch them up quick, and they are CHEAP at 10 bucks a pop.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## Ironhand (Nov 29, 2011)

I ran a discarded 10" non-carbide blade from my tablesaw on my Honda 4-stroke. That thing was a beast. Much better than the blade that came with it. My problem was that I had to open the blade up to mount to the 1" arbor on the trimmer. The hole was just slightly too large, making it difficult to center and caused some vibration. The extra flywheel effect given by the heavier blade was an unexpected bonus.


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## bigredd (Nov 29, 2011)

stihl sawing said:


> Never thought about that, One of them could mess ya up in a hurry. Best to stay with the ones that are recommended for brushcutters.



Using non-recommended blades for your brush cutter can be extremely dangerous. You don't want to be on the receiving end of a exploding blade spinning 3000 rpm.


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## jus2fat (Nov 29, 2011)

dingeryote said:


> Been running a couple Forrester saw chain blades for a while now, and they actually work as advertised, and hold up better than I figured.
> Just cutter links riveted to the disk so the kerf is wide enough not to drag like the silly Beaver thing.
> 
> Best part is the round file will touch them up quick, and they are CHEAP at *10 bucks a pop*.
> Dingeryote



Where can I buy them at that price...?? I SURE would buy some at that price..!!

Forester website shows $20.25...??

J2F


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## dingeryote (Nov 30, 2011)

jus2fat said:


> Where can I buy them at that price...?? I SURE would buy some at that price..!!
> 
> Forester website shows $20.25...??
> 
> J2F



PM sent. 

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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