# Stihl BR 600-Z Blower: service help please!



## pdqdl (Mar 25, 2011)

My blower keeps having valve problems. 

First time: ZERO compression; the rocker arm for the valve popped off its position, and it was holding the valve open.

2nd time (now!): monster compression, we can't start it because it can't hardly be turned over.

I believe the valve adjusting nuts are creeping loose, and the valve timing is all wrong. Right now it feels like about .040-.050 clearance, and we would like to re-adjust.

Unfortunately, I don't know how. The gap is tiny, and nothing we have can measure the gap. Also, I have no idea what the proper valve lash is.

View attachment 177293



Any advice?

Does anybody know what Stihl has to say about keeping the valves from changing, and is there a history of this problem from other owners?


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## blsnelling (Mar 25, 2011)

I just went through 6 of these. Four had broken exhaust valves. One had two bent pushrods. The problem is lack of maintenance. Those valves have to be a justed every 50 hours. I seriously doubt they're backing off. It is possible that your plastic camshaft lobe is worn. Adjusting them is simple. A single bolt holds on the valve cover. Then you simply turn the adjusting nut clockwise to reduce the clearance. Spec is .004".


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## Trigger-Time (Mar 25, 2011)

pdqdl said:


> My blower keeps having valve problems.
> 
> First time: ZERO compression; the rocker arm for the valve popped off its position, and it was holding the valve open.
> 
> ...



Are you setting it with ignition at TDC?.........also with engine cold.

TT


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## Motorsen (Mar 25, 2011)

*Valve adjustment*

As long as the corresponding valve is not actuated by the cam. You can measure and adjust. TDC at the compression/combustion stroke. Or TDC at exhaust stroke? At comp/combustion stroke yes. Exhaust stroke no. Almost all engines have valves adjusted cold. Allthough some japanesse manufactures specify a warm clearance too.


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## pdqdl (Mar 25, 2011)

I CAN"T set the valve lash. The teeny tiny valve is shielded on both sides with tabs on the rocker arm that keep a normal feeler guage from being inserted.

It would take a feeler gauge about 1/8" wide to be able to insert it.

Even if I had the right tool, I still wouldn't know what setting to adjust it to, either. Well...until blsnelling told me 4 thousandths!


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## Trigger-Time (Mar 25, 2011)

pdqdl said:


> I CAN"T set the valve lash. The teeny tiny valve is shielded on both sides with tabs on the rocker arm that keep a normal feeler guage from being inserted.
> 
> It would take a feeler gauge about 1/8" wide to be able to insert it.
> 
> Even if I had the right too, I still wouldn't know what setting to adjust it to, either.



Both valves are set at 0.004

Stihl sells a valve adjusting kit, it comes with a feeler gauge made
just for the job.

TT


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## Motorsen (Mar 25, 2011)

*0.004???*

Brad you mean 0.04 not 0.004??? If 0.004 is correct it damn tight. Or it´s just me thats old fashioned. Like the first time i saw a caterpillar piston for a new generation industrial engine. I thought the guys want pullig a joke. It looked like a racing piston. Almost no skirt!


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## Aaron441 (Mar 25, 2011)

No they're right, its .004. 4 thousandths.


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## blsnelling (Mar 25, 2011)

Trigger-Time said:


> Both valves are set at 0.004
> 
> Stihl sells a valve adjusting kit, it comes with a feeler gauge made
> just for the job.
> ...


 
I made my own from a standard feeler guage. When I bought seal and gasket kits for the two I just put new valves in, they came with the feeler guages. Do I've got three of them now.


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## honda12967 (Mar 26, 2011)

Check the valve seats when your in there, We had tons of valve seats move on the br600. Stihl didnt believe us when we warrentied them, they sent a rep down and he looked at the valve seats and it was clear that they moved. Its looking like it is getting to be a big problem with valves on the br600s. Just offering some advice, i see these everyday at our store.

Chris


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## pdqdl (Mar 28, 2011)

Thanks guys! We will be sure to check the valve seats, too.


...We might not have checked that one!


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## FATGUY (Jul 23, 2012)

I just adjusted the valve clearance on my neighbors br600. Is it normal to hear the valve train "tick"? If I back off the nuts the ticking goes away, when I re-tighten to spec., they click. Anyone?


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## FATGUY (Jul 23, 2012)

the other thing I forgot to mention is the exhaust valve seems to stay ever so slightly open while the intake is opening/closing. It appears after the intake closes completely, the exhaust valve then closes completely. Is this a faulty cam or some sort of complicated compression release system I don't understand?


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## lone wolf (Jul 23, 2012)

pdqdl said:


> I CAN"T set the valve lash. The teeny tiny valve is shielded on both sides with tabs on the rocker arm that keep a normal feeler guage from being inserted.
> 
> It would take a feeler gauge about 1/8" wide to be able to insert it.
> 
> Even if I had the right tool, I still wouldn't know what setting to adjust it to, either. Well...until blsnelling told me 4 thousandths!



Take a pair of scissors and cut the feeler gauge more narrow no big deal as the dealer would have you believe.


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## Roll Tide (Jul 23, 2012)

Part number 4282 007 1001. Includes a feeler gauge, new gasket and copper washer. If Im not mistaken they are no more then about $3. Comes with everything you need to set your valves.


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## lone wolf (Jul 23, 2012)

blsnelling said:


> I just went through 6 of these. Four had broken exhaust valves. One had two bent pushrods. The problem is lack of maintenance. Those valves have to be a justed every 50 hours. I seriously doubt they're backing off. It is possible that your plastic camshaft lobe is worn. Adjusting them is simple. A single bolt holds on the valve cover. Then you simply turn the adjusting nut clockwise to reduce the clearance. Spec is .004".



Plastic cam lobe huh?


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## FATGUY (Jul 23, 2012)

they're a light powerful unit but it seems they've had their fair share of issues. From what I understand, periodic maintenance along with running good fuel will go a long way...


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## Roll Tide (Jul 23, 2012)

FATGUY said:


> they're a light powerful unit but it seems they've had their fair share of issues. From what I understand, periodic maintenance along with running good fuel will go a long way...


Running Ultra oil and good quality fuel, also adjusting valves after every season is good practice.The biggest problems with the 4 mixs is the carbon build up sticking the valves and valves not being adjusted. Other than that they are great units.IMO


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## FATGUY (Jul 23, 2012)

rolltide said:


> Running Ultra oil and good quality fuel, also adjusting valves after every season is good practice.The biggest problems with the 4 mixs is the carbon build up sticking the valves and valves not being adjusted. Other than that they are great units.IMO



did you happen to read the 2 questions I had on page one( ticking and an extra movement of the exhaust valve)? I'd like to get the blower back to my neighbor as soon as I can, but I certainly don't want to give it back to him if it needs to be repaired.


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## Roll Tide (Jul 23, 2012)

FATGUY said:


> did you happen to read the 2 questions I had on page one( ticking and an extra movement of the exhaust valve)? I'd like to get the blower back to my neighbor as soon as I can, but I certainly don't want to give it back to him if it needs to be repaired.


The ticking is not normal, could be excess carbon build up. They make a decarbonizer, you remove the plug with the piston at TDC and fill it to the top of the spark plug hole. Let it sit for 24 hours, turn it upside down to drain it out. When you first start it, it will not wanna idle and you will get black smoke then it clears up. That would be my first guess.


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## blsnelling (Jul 23, 2012)

Tell him to buy a Shindaiwa or Redmax


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## Roll Tide (Jul 23, 2012)

blsnelling said:


> Tell him to buy a Shindaiwa or Redmax


Id tell him to put in good mix and adjust the valves atleast every two seasons and he wont run into those problems.


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## blsnelling (Jul 23, 2012)

If you get a later model 600, with the hardened parts, run Ultra oil, and keep the valves adjusted, I doubt you'd ever have a problem with one of these. Or, you can buy a traditional 2-stroke Redmax or Shindaiwa and not have to worry about any of that

I know that doestn' help you Nik, but I don't know the answer to your question. You would have to completely remove the engine in order to visually inspect the cam, and followers. Then you'd have to remove the piston, and then the valves, in order to decarbon. Just more reasons not to own one of these.


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## Roll Tide (Jul 23, 2012)

blsnelling said:


> If you get a later model 600, with the hardened parts, run Ultra oil, and keep the valves adjusted, I doubt you'd ever have a problem with one of these. Or, you can buy a traditional 2-stroke Redmax or Shindaiwa and not have to worry about any of that
> 
> I know that doestn' help you Nik, but I don't know the answer to your question. You would have to completely remove the engine in order to visually inspect the cam, and followers. Then you'd have to remove the piston, and then the valves, in order to decarbon. Just more reasons not to own one of these.



Actually the decarbonizer does a pretty dang good job, not spotless but cleans them enough.IMO


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## Roll Tide (Jul 23, 2012)

rolltide said:


> Actually the decarbonizer does a pretty dang good job, not spotless but cleans them enough.IMO


The only thing you have to do is remove the sparkplug.


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## FATGUY (Jul 23, 2012)

is it an aftermarket decarbonizer or Stihl? Would be good to have a can or two of that stuff on hand.


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## blsnelling (Jul 23, 2012)

FATGUY said:


> is it an aftermarket decarbonizer or Stihl? Would be good to have a can or two of that stuff on hand.



I'm pretty sure it's a Stihl product. I believe I remember Tom recommending it.


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## Roll Tide (Jul 23, 2012)

PART# 0781 313 8018, and one bottle would last you a long time.


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## FATGUY (Jul 23, 2012)

rolltide said:


> Id tell him to put in good mix and adjust the valves atleast every two seasons and he wont run into those problems.



while he's had it (he bought it used) it's only had either trufuel or non-ethanol 91 octane mixed with ultra @ 50:1 (by me). When he first got it a few weeks ago, Andre was of the opinion that it was very underpowered. I just thought Andre was spoiled by his Shindaiwa...


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## Roll Tide (Jul 23, 2012)

FATGUY said:


> while he's had it (he bought it used) it's only had either trufuel or non-ethanol 91 octane mixed with ultra @ 50:1 (by me). When he first got it a few weeks ago, Andre was of the opinion that it was very underpowered. I just thought Andre was spoiled by his Shindaiwa...


The only other thing Ive found that causes carbon buildup is running at part throttle alot or on and off the throttle.


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## FATGUY (Jul 23, 2012)

rolltide said:


> The only other thing Ive found that causes carbon buildup is running at part throttle alot or on and off the throttle.



He bought it used and I have no idea how the previous owner treated it. The outside appearance of a piece of *** is not really a reliable way of telling whether it was maintained properly or not. It had one shroud screw missing, so the shroud had been off but I have no way of knowing if the valve cover was off or if the valves were ever adjusted.


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## Remy Kerr (Sep 8, 2016)

You can use a Coke or beer can. Cut a thin strip the width of the rocker and valve. Adjustable to. 004, as most have said. Adjust down clockwise, til there is some resistance (light) before you pull it out of valve clearance. Do this for exhaust valve, than repeat for the intake valve. Re-assemble. Done.


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## Den69RS96 (Sep 9, 2016)

If you use the decarbonizer make sure the piston is at the top and when both valves are open. Once you drain the fluid start it up. Don't let it sit for a day or two after draining the fluid or the valves will stick open. Also make sure to remove the screen in the muffler otherwise you'll be asking why it won't rev or have any power.


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