# I snapped a chain



## s37d (Mar 4, 2010)

Hi I'm a new member and I have a couple things to share and some questions. I've never cut a tree down all I do is find big trees that have fallen and cut them into 16" lengths for my wood stove. I'm just a tree noob with my little Poulan 18" $99 saw so don't make fun of me too much. Actually the saw looks just like this smilie: 
:greenchainsaw:

1. The other day I was cutting with a fairly new chain, and all of the sudden the chain snapped. It didn't ricochet back or anything but just snapped at the joint...destroyed. I don't remember being stuck or anything, so I'm wondering what causes/caused this? Does it happen once in awhile even to you pros? Should I contact the manufacturer and see if I can get a replacement? It's a Power Care from Home Depot so I assume it's a Home Depot-exclusive brand, and probably china-made junk. 

1. My chain makes a whizzing sound when it turns, so loud that I can hear it whizz when I run the saw. It didn't make this sound when I first got it so I'm wondering what's causing it?

2. Is it normal to go through an entire tank of bar and chain lube in 20 min to a half hour of fairly continuous cutting? 

3. Also I was sharpening a chain with my dremel freehand with the correct size sharpening bit(5/32), but it didn't get it real sharp. I am wondering if it's even possible to get it super sharp with a dremel or if I should just go with a manual file kit instead. Is it worth learning to sharpen yourself and if you learn do you still have to bring it to a professional sharpener ever? Also any recommendations on file kit brands would be great, thanks.


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## isaaccarlson (Mar 4, 2010)

*I sharpen with a file and it gets SHARP.*

Have you ever pinched your bar/chain? Ever bent the chain when it was not on the saw? Did you cut into a tie strap with the dremel? I think it was damaged/defective....I have personally never seen a poulan break a chain.

The wizzing sound is probably worn/damaged components or something in your bar rails.


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## isaaccarlson (Mar 4, 2010)

*can you post some pics?*

they help A LOT.


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## CPO (Mar 4, 2010)

Is there bar oil getting the entire way around? Run the saw (with your new chain on) with the tip near not touching somthing clean you should see oil being flung off the tip and making a mist/splatter pattern on the object. that will tell you if your saw is putting good oil out.

Yes you should use a tank of oil roughly the same as a tank of gas. You should be filling both every time. 

Please do not try and free hand chain sharpening with a dremel you can make the chain much worse than it already is and you can make it cut crooked as heck. Most saw shops charg a few bucks to sharpen chains. I have spares I take with me cutting so I just swap the chain and then sharpen all the dull ones when I get back home.


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## s37d (Mar 4, 2010)

isaaccarlson said:


> The wizzing sound is probably worn/damaged components or something in your bar rails.



What is the best way to clean the bar rails? Also I've heard of destroyed bars...what constitutes a destroyed bar and how does it get destroyed? Yes I pinched the bar chain before, no never bent the chain when it wasn't on the saw, no I didn't cut into any tie straps.

CPO - I will check this tomorrow, but last I used the saw I think I remember some mist coming out the tip. In regards to sharpening, you don't sharpen them yourself? How do the professional sharpeners do it?

Boy chain saws use a lot of bar oil...stuff isn't super cheap either. Isn't there a more cost-effective alternative?


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## Daninvan (Mar 4, 2010)

Hi 37,

You've posted to the milling forum, although it sounds like you are not milling, you're just bucking up logs for firewood? If that's the case you might get more useful responses in the chainsawing forum. 

However, we are a friendly bunch here and I am sure you'll get all kinds of suggestions. 

I use canola oil rather than bar oil. I know other folks do too, others don't like it. Some like use use discarded motor oil. It can be a religious issue!

Buy a file and a cheap guide and learn how to sharpen by hand. It won't take long to get the hang of it. Then you can discard the guide and go freehand. You'll be surprised at what a difference a sharp chain makes!

On the broken chain (speaking from recent experience!) make sure that there are no burrs on your bar. They will pinch the chain and cause problems. You can see/feel them easily when the chain is off. Take a look at the 2nd and 3rd pages of this thread. http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=118412

Good luck!

Dan


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## BobL (Mar 4, 2010)

s37d said:


> 1. The other day I was cutting with a fairly new chain, and all of the sudden the chain snapped. It didn't ricochet back or anything but just snapped at the joint...destroyed. I don't remember being stuck or anything, so I'm wondering what causes/caused this?


Lots or reasons, mostly related to poor chain and bar maintenance.



> Does it happen once in awhile even to you pros?


yes



> Should I contact the manufacturer and see if I can get a replacement? It's a Power Care from Home Depot so I assume it's a Home Depot-exclusive brand, and probably china-made junk.


You can try, but don't be surprised if they find a clause that gets them out out doing anything. 



> 1. My chain makes a whizzing sound when it turns, so loud that I can hear it whizz when I run the saw. It didn't make this sound when I first got it so I'm wondering what's causing it?


You say new chains, did you change your sprocket as well? I would suspect your sprocket is well past its use by date.



> 2. Is it normal to go through an entire tank of bar and chain lube in 20 min to a half hour of fairly continuous cutting?


Yes 



> Also I was sharpening a chain with my dremel freehand with the correct size sharpening bit(5/32), but it didn't get it real sharp. I am wondering if it's even possible to get it super sharp with a dremel or if I should just go with a manual file kit instead. Is it worth learning to sharpen yourself and if you learn do you still have to bring it to a professional sharpener ever? Also any recommendations on file kit brands would be great, thanks.



Whether you use a dremel or a file you should be able to get it sharp.
It is worth learning to do it yourself then you can do it BEFORE it gets blunt ie after every tank or two of mix.
Check out this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=109475


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## CPO (Mar 4, 2010)

I sharpen my chains but I have one of the expensive chain sharpeners costs about $200. your new chain should say what size file to use 5/32, 3/8 etc.

I would use google and watch some youtube videos on the subject. (a picture is worth 1000 words)


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## isaaccarlson (Mar 4, 2010)

*I use a BIG safety pin and run it down both sides of the bar*

POINT FIRST to dislodge any crud. Most of the guys on here sharpen at home. I do. I am not going to shell out $$$ to keep my chains sharp. it costs enough just to buy them in the first place. I only go through about 1/2 tank of oil to a tank of gas, but I still fill both at the same time. You should chech your bar for cracks and bends and also make sure the roller tip turns freely without any grabbing or slop. Make sure you clean out your oil holes in your bar too....or you will burn it up. If your teeth start to turn brown you need to clean the bar because it is not getting oil. How long have you been using your saw? Is the sprocket worn? Also hold your chain sideways and let it sag....if it bends more than 90° it is worn.


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## BobL (Mar 4, 2010)

Daninvan said:


> On the broken chain (speaking from recent experience!) make sure that there are no burrs on your bar. They will pinch the chain and cause problems. You can see/feel them easily when the chain is off.



A burred chain can also jam in the drive sprocket.

Post a close up picture of some chain cutters like this and we will try to diagnose the problem.


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## mtngun (Mar 4, 2010)

s37d said:


> my little Poulan 18" $99 saw ..... and all of the sudden the chain snapped.


Your Poulan must have pretty impressive power to snap chains at will. 



> My chain makes a whizzing sound when it turns, so loud that I can hear it whizz when I run the saw. It didn't make this sound when I first got it so I'm wondering what's causing it?


What gage and pitch was the chain that broke ? 

What gage and pitch is the bar ? This should be stamped on the bar.

What I am getting at is, did the gage & pitch of the chain match the gage & pitch of the bar ? If you were running a 0.325" chain on a 3/8 bar, or a 3/8 chain on a .325" bar, that might cause the chain to fatigue and eventually break.

To further complicate matters, there are several different kinds of 3/8 chain, but we won't confuse you with that information now.

Chances are it was just an crappy offshore chain. 

It takes a while to learn to sharpen chains, no matter which sharpening method you use. Plus, the low-kickback style chains sold at big box stores don't cut all that great even when they are sharp.


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## isaaccarlson (Mar 4, 2010)

*looks like you need to turn your oiler up BobL.....LOL*



BobL said:


> A burred chain can also jam in the drive sprocket.
> 
> Post a close up picture of some chain cutters like this and we will try to diagnose the problem.


.


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## s37d (Mar 4, 2010)

Geesh you guys respond faster than any other forum I've been on. 

First off I meant to post in the chainsaw forum sorry bout that. Secondly thanks for the responses. 

Daninvan - ok I will buy a file and guide, any specific brand or will even the cheap home depot brand do? Those are good pics thanks, I'll do a thorough cleaning and inspect everything tomorrow.

BobL - Like I said, I'm very new...the sprocket is the piece that's on the end of the bar and guides that end of the chain around right? How often does it need to be changed? I haven't changed it yet. It's a new saw I've only put about probably 3-5 hours of cutting into it interchanging between 3 different chains.

CPO - Yeah I've watched a few videos, I just need to get the tools so I can start practicing.

issaccarlson - How often do you need to clean these holes and where are they located? You just push the crud out with a twig or something? 

I will post some pics tomorrow and get the gauge/pitch for you mtngun. TY again everyone.


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## dingeryote (Mar 4, 2010)

Drive spur is chewed ta hell from running the chain too tight/loose, and bound up busting the chain.

Swap out the spur, clean the trash out of the bar groove, put on a new chain and go cut something.

That noise will go away.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## isaaccarlson (Mar 5, 2010)

*s37d... call me...I am still up...*

it will be faster than this is.


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## isaaccarlson (Mar 5, 2010)

*oil hole location/sprocket wear*

View attachment 128008






View attachment 128009





View attachment 128010


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## isaaccarlson (Mar 5, 2010)

*I use the big safety pin to clean out the rails and the oiler holes.*

I like to run it down both rails and then clean the oil hole(s). The sprocket in your bar tip is not replaceable....but your drive sprocket is. If it is worn more than 1/16 inch change it.


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## mtngun (Mar 5, 2010)

s37d said:


> the sprocket is the piece that's on the end of the bar and guides that end of the chain around right? How often does it need to be changed? I haven't changed it yet. It's a new saw I've only put about probably 3-5 hours of cutting into it interchanging between 3 different chains.


The bar sprocket hardly ever wears out.

The drive sprocket -- the sprocket that is on the saw and drives the chain -- does wear and will need to be replaced every so often. The "official" recommendation is to change the drive sprocket after you have worn out 2 chains. 

However, I never replaced the drive sprocket on my Poulan, because the Poulan wore out before the drive sprocket did. :hmm3grin2orange:

Seriously, with only 3-5 hours run time, your drive sprocket should be fine. Just make sure the chain specs match the bar specs.


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## CPO (Mar 5, 2010)

The "whirring" sound could have been somthing simple as well. Like a chain that was too tight.


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## BobL (Mar 5, 2010)

isaaccarlson said:


> looks like you need to turn your oiler up BobL.....LOL.



You like that one - not the worst negative hook or side plate angle I have seen but close.


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## BobL (Mar 5, 2010)

CPO said:


> The "whirring" sound could have been somthing simple as well. Like a chain that was too tight.



If the chain has been over stretched the sound of the drive links slapping the font/back of the sprocket will also make a whirring sound.


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## Brmorgan (Mar 5, 2010)

dingeryote said:


> Drive spur is chewed ta hell from running the chain too tight/loose, and bound up busting the chain.
> 
> Swap out the spur, clean the trash out of the bar groove, put on a new chain and go cut something.
> 
> ...



That's what I'm leaning towards too. My uncle brought me his Poulan once saying that the chain just wouldn't go around anymore; it would turn maybe 2/3 and then lock right up. He thought he'd half-seized the engine. I looked at the spur sprocket and it was so worn that two or three teeth had snapped right off, so the chain would bind up on itself as it tried to go around.

Honestly I have no idea why they still MAKE spur sprockets. They're absolute POS with no benefits I can think of. I'd rather have a non-replaceable rim sprocket drum.

One thing that's easy to do with those Poulan saws is get the wrong pitch of chain for the saw, especially if you go buy those pre-packaged chains at a big-box store. Most of the "smaller" Poulans use 3/8" pitch low-profile chain, while the larger ~46cc ones use .325 chisel chain. The packages all say "Poulan" on them though, at least up here, and don't really give model specifics. I've known at least three people to put the wrong pitch of chain on a Poulan this way, which will definitely snap the chain eventually since a 3/8" sprocket will really wear and stretch a .325 chain quite fast, and will also make a heck of a noise doing it most times.


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## rarefish383 (Mar 5, 2010)

I've been running saws for over 40 years, and just a couple months ago I put the wrong chain on my Stihl Farm Boss. I ran in an Ace Hardware and grabbed a chain marked 18" Stihl. Got on the wood pile and the thing made one heck of a whirring noise. I took a quick look and the chain was not sitting all of the way down in the groove around the bar tip. OOPS, wrong chain, Joe.


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## s37d (Mar 5, 2010)

Hi guys. It's the right chain for it, the saw's model number is listed on the back of the package. 

I see what you're talking about when you say the sprocket now. It's like a clutch bell...clutch shoes fly out and make contact with the inside of it. 

As far as the chain being too tight, I'm not sure if it was or wasn't. I followed some tutorial I watched that said to tighten it until you can just barely pull the chain out from the bar groove when using moderate force. I also made sure to check after a few cuts if the chain had loosened at all, because I remembered reading that new chains(which it was), tend to loosen quickly when first used. 

I'll get pics eventually just need to get a cable to attach my phone to pc. I've been splitting wood all day today - the wood that I cut the other day - took a few hours. It all split pretty easy, only had to use the maul about 20% of the time, everything else split with one or two axe strokes. I don't even use a wedge when splitting wood. I'm not really a big guy so to hold a wedge in one hand and a maul in the other is overload for me. All in all I ended up with about 3/4 of a cord stacked up, it looks and smells good. I stacked it in my (heated)garage so hopefully it will dry faster than if I had stacked it outside, and be ready for the fall. The hardwood split faster/easier than the softwood, which surprised me. Does freshly cut wood split easier than wood that's been sitting around for awhile?


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## BobL (Mar 5, 2010)

s37d said:


> Hi guys. It's the right chain for it, the saw's model number is listed on the back of the package.



That doesn't mean much. Just about all saws will drive most chains but that doesn't mean it will match your bar and sprocket set up on your saw. 

The *pitch* (between any three consecutive rivets, divided by two. eg 1/4", 0.325", 0.375 etc) and *gauge* (thickness of drive links eg 0.050, 0.058, 0.063 etc) must match the bar and drive sprocket otherwise the chain can break.


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## s37d (Mar 5, 2010)

I see, I just figured that if my saw's model number was listed on the back of the chains package then the chain manufacturer would have already checked all that to make sure it matches up.


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## jimdad07 (Mar 5, 2010)

s37d said:


> Geesh you guys respond faster than any other forum I've been on.
> 
> First off I meant to post in the chainsaw forum sorry bout that. Secondly thanks for the responses.
> 
> ...



Could be better that you posted over here. You say the phrase "$99 Poulan and Home Depot" on the other forum and you might get your pee pee slapped pretty good. It is a very good skill to have being able to sharpen a chain by hand. To me nothing works better than a good round file, its also a good feeling to know you can do it. I touch up my chain every time I fill the gas and bar oil. It saves me a lot of time on sharpening in the long run. Once in a while I will take it to the nearest saw shop and have it sharpened to bring back a completely uniform edge.
Good luck and welcome to AS, the best forum site on the whole internet with the best people.


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## BobL (Mar 5, 2010)

jimdad07 said:


> Could be better that you posted over here. You say the phrase "$99 Poulan and Home Depot" on the other forum and you might get your pee pee slapped pretty good.



The first time I posted something those guys didn't like (ie please stay on topic and stop with the "STEEHL" - "HUSKIEE" shouting matches) I got more than my pee pee slapped. Anyway - they're actually a pretty harmless bunch if you stare em down and have a big salt shaker in your hand.


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## jimdad07 (Mar 5, 2010)

BobL said:


> The first time I posted something those guys didn't like (ie please stay on topic and stop with the "STEEHL" - "HUSKIEE" shouting matches) I got more than my pee pee slapped. Anyway - they're actually a pretty harmless bunch if you stare em down and have a big salt shaker in your hand.



I keep holy water and a necklace of garlic on hand when I am on the chainsaw forum, so far so good.:hmm3grin2orange:


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## Philbert (Mar 5, 2010)

s37d said:


> Hi I'm a new member and I have a couple things to share and some questions.



Welcome to A.S.!



s37d said:


> I'm just a tree noob with my little Poulan 18" $99 saw . . . The other day I was cutting with a fairly new chain, and all of the sudden the chain snapped. I. . . It's a Power Care from Home Depot.



There _are_ quality differences between saws. However, the chain is the most important part. Sharp chain on a small or inexpensive saw will cut better than a dull chain on a big or expensive saw.

You should absolutely take the chain back to Home Depot. This is a safety issue they need to know about. Since it is their exclusive brand they will replace it. Ask for a manager if you get any flak.

That said, you may be surprised that will get a better quality chain for about the same price at other hardware/home stores (Oregon brand) or at a saw shop (Oregon or STIHL brand). If you are buying a few things you might also want to check out some of the chains sold by A.S. sponsors (usually not worth the additional shipping costs for just one chain).

While at the saw shop, look into better saws for down the road - they might have some used or reconditioned models that are affordable.



s37d said:


> 2. Is it normal to go through an entire tank of bar and chain lube in 20 min to a half hour of fairly continuous cutting?



Not unusual. Depends on the saw, the size of the tank, and what you are cutting. Newer saws and smaller saws use less fuel. What is important to remember is that the fuel and bar oil tanks are usually balanced: any time you add fuel, make sure to re-fill the bar oil tank.



s37d said:


> 3. Also I was sharpening a chain with my dremel freehand . . .



There are lots of ways to sharpen a chain. It's not that complicated, but can be confusing if you try to follow all the different ways at once. Choose one and take your time to develop some skill at it. It is usually helpful to start with some type of guide instead of freehand, and to have someone show you. There are file guides and Dremel guides.

Be careful about the stuff on YouTube - some of it is just bad. This one from STIHL is pretty good for filing:
http://stihldealer.net/videolibrary/OnePlayer.aspx?v=3&vt=3&vb=0&id=3

Philbert


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## jimdad07 (Mar 5, 2010)

Philbert said:


> Welcome to A.S.!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I agree. Home Depot has its place for the guy who is just cutting every now and then, but if you are cutting wood for heat and want to get some years out of your equipment, may not be a bad idea to look around. Research a lot and make sure you try before you buy. On the other hand, don't underestimate your Poulan, take care of it and it will take care of you.


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## s37d (Mar 5, 2010)

Philbert said:


> That said, you may be surprised that will get a better quality chain for about the same price at other hardware/home stores (Oregon brand) or at a saw shop (Oregon or STIHL brand). While at the saw shop, look into better saws for down the road - they might have some used or reconditioned models that are affordable.Philbert



Yes there is a hardware store down the street that sells Husqvarna tools. I go in there once in awhile and always look at the saws, they're really nice, even to just look at...orange never looked so good. I can't afford a new one by any means, and truly I don't cut enough to warrant it, but they are very nice and maybe in the future I'll be able to purchase one. I'll have to go in there and see if they have some good chains. How do I know if the chain will fit my saw, what should I look for?


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## isaaccarlson (Mar 5, 2010)

*It will be stamped on the bar.*

it will have the pitch, gauge, and length/drivers


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## Philbert (Mar 6, 2010)

s37d said:


> Yes there is a hardware store down the street that sells Husqvarna tools. I go in there once in awhile and always look at the saws, . . . How do I know if the chain will fit my saw, what should I look for?



Next time you go in there, bring your saw and ask a lot of questions!

Philbert


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## Kicker_92 (Mar 7, 2010)

s37d said:


> As far as the chain being too tight, I'm not sure if it was or wasn't. I followed some tutorial I watched that said to tighten it until you can just barely pull the chain out from the bar groove when using moderate force.



You might be running the chain too tight, or pushing the saw too hard with a dull chain. Either one will put a lot of force on the chain. Sometimes the oilers on these saws don't work well, but if you're going through 1/2 tank of bar oil per tank of fuel you should be fine.

When they make a chain loop, there is allways a spun rivet joint. The joints are sometimes not made well, either not staight or not riveted properly. IF you post a picture of the chain break, someone here will identify it quick.

I'd agree that they should warranty the chain if it broke that quickly. And don't mind the Stihl / Husqvarna crowd, those Poulans can hold up for a *little *bit of firewood cutting. Just like it was pointed out, the key to a good saw is a sharp, well filed chain.


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## s37d (Mar 7, 2010)

Hah, that's some nice wood Kicker, what kind is it? I want to post some pics of this wood that I recently split so you guys can identify it. 

Is it ok to store freshly cut, green, bug-free, rot-free wood inside a heated garage? I figure if it's in a heated(60º+) dry garage it will season it in, say, half a year as opposed to a year.


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## BobL (Mar 7, 2010)

s37d said:


> Hah, that's some nice wood Kicker, what kind is it? I want to post some pics of this wood that I recently split so you guys can identify it.
> 
> Is it ok to store freshly cut, green, bug-free, rot-free wood inside a heated garage? I figure if it's in a heated(60º+) dry garage it will season it in, say, half a year as opposed to a year.



It depends how thick you cut it and how much air is exchanged with the outside air. The normal drying time in air outside is 1 year per inch. In a heated closed garage it may be a little quicker but only if you exchange moisture ladened air with dryer air at regular intervals. Not exchanging air can result in mould and fungus growing on the wood.


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## Daninvan (Mar 7, 2010)

BobL said:


> Not exchanging air can result in mould and fungus growing on the wood.



+1 on that! 

I had to stop storing wood in the 'dry' garage, even with fans blowing on it there were mold problems. Now I stack it up under the eves beside the house with something on top to keep the rain off, the wind keeps the mold down.

Dan


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## s37d (Mar 7, 2010)

I'll have to keep an eye on it and see if mold grows. It's right next to a radiator so it should be pretty dry, but we'll see. If it gets moldy or critter/bug-infested, I'll have to build an open-sided shed of some sorts and stack it under that outside.


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## SilverBox (Mar 7, 2010)

skimmed this thread, I know i'm weighing in late.


PowerCare from HD is junk. It will only take about 2 horse. I've snapped a couple. On a 2.5 horse saw, never even got to sharpen it before it snapped.

This is not in any way the users fault or some problem with his saw.

Powercare chain is complete total garbage, the longest I've seen one of these chains (3/8 LP) last is filed down about halfway on a 1.8hp saw.

and one last time POWERCARE IS JUNK.


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## jimdad07 (Mar 7, 2010)

s37d said:


> Hah, that's some nice wood Kicker, what kind is it? I want to post some pics of this wood that I recently split so you guys can identify it.
> 
> Is it ok to store freshly cut, green, bug-free, rot-free wood inside a heated garage? I figure if it's in a heated(60º+) dry garage it will season it in, say, half a year as opposed to a year.



Nothing seasons wood as well as sunshine, wind and rain. I like to have my twenty or so face cord cut, split and stacked into 4' x 8' stacks by May, and then I cover the stacks with tarps around mid September.


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## s37d (Mar 7, 2010)

SilverBox said:


> skimmed this thread, I know i'm weighing in late.



I appreciate your input, ty. I went to home depot tonight and they gave me a new chain. We'll see how long this one lasts lol.



jimdad07 said:


> Nothing seasons wood as well as sunshine, wind and rain. I like to have my twenty or so face cord cut, split and stacked into 4' x 8' stacks by May, and then I cover the stacks with tarps around mid September.



Yeah this makes sense. I read somewhere that moisture only exits the wood form the cut ends of the wood, not the face of it. I also read that wood exposed to rain dries it out faster, similar to how overexposure of our hands to water dries them out. Do you cover the tops only with tarps or the sides too?


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## BobL (Mar 8, 2010)

jimdad07 said:


> Nothing seasons wood as well as sunshine, wind and rain. I like to have my twenty or so face cord cut, split and stacked into 4' x 8' stacks by May, and then I cover the stacks with tarps around mid September.



I'd avoid the direct sunshine if possible.


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## Brmorgan (Mar 8, 2010)

BobL said:


> I'd avoid the direct sunshine if possible.



I believe he's talking about firewood.


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## Brmorgan (Mar 8, 2010)

s37d said:


> Yeah this makes sense. I read somewhere that moisture only exits the wood form the cut ends of the wood, not the face of it. I also read that wood exposed to rain dries it out faster, similar to how overexposure of our hands to water dries them out. Do you cover the tops only with tarps or the sides too?



Moisture will leave the wood radially through the rings as well, but it's a slower process because it has to pass through all the cell walls of each layer of cells, whereas it can travel lengthwise down the natural passages in the wood grain to exit the ends. Casehardening and honeycombing occur when lumber is dried too quickly or with too much heat - the moisture does leave radially through the sides, but in an unequal fashion where the outer layers are extremely dried and hard and the inner ones still have a relatively high moisture content. This can result in all sorts of warping and fiber tension issues in the lumber and is why most fine woodworkers won't even look at kiln-dried wood for projects.


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## jimdad07 (Mar 8, 2010)

BobL said:


> I'd avoid the direct sunshine if possible.



I was talking about firewood, sorry for the confusion. Milled wood in the direct sunlight is not good.


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## jimdad07 (Mar 8, 2010)

s37d said:


> I appreciate your input, ty. I went to home depot tonight and they gave me a new chain. We'll see how long this one lasts lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah this makes sense. I read somewhere that moisture only exits the wood form the cut ends of the wood, not the face of it. I also read that wood exposed to rain dries it out faster, similar to how overexposure of our hands to water dries them out. Do you cover the tops only with tarps or the sides too?



I cover the sides as well. I built my house in the middle of a field so the wind coming off of Lake Ontario drives the snow all through my wood pile if I don't cover the sides. I have also not had any luck just leaving the wood in a big pile (like a mound), seems to not dry out and just get moldy a little ways into the pile.


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## SilverBox (Mar 9, 2010)

Brmorgan said:


> I believe he's talking about firewood.



lol


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## Brmorgan (Mar 9, 2010)

Well I wasn't sure if maybe I'd missed something since it's a milling forum and all; for a second I was trying to come up with some reason why leaving firewood in the sun was a bad idea. You never know about those Aussie hardwoods eh! They're already close to petrified, who knows what exposure to sunlight could do!


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## s37d (Mar 11, 2010)

SilverBox said:


> PowerCare from HD is junk. It will only take about 2 horse. I've snapped a couple. On a 2.5 horse saw, never even got to sharpen it before it snapped.
> 
> This is not in any way the users fault or some problem with his saw.
> 
> ...



Looks like you're right, because I snapped another one. Took it back to home cheapo and got yet another replacement. I'll stay positive and look at it this way: free chain sharpenings.


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## Philbert (Mar 11, 2010)

s37d said:


> Looks like you're right, because I snapped another one. Took it back to home cheapo and got yet another replacement.


 
I don't know how things work there, but if they get enough of them returned that break, some guy in Atlanta might look at the numbers and tell someone in China to make them stronger.

If you or I go tell the guy at the counter, he might not care and blow it off, or they might ignore him too. If we just throw the broken chains away, they never know.

Philbert


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## BobL (Mar 12, 2010)

s37d said:


> Looks like you're right, because I snapped another one. Took it back to home cheapo and got yet another replacement. I'll stay positive and look at it this way: free chain sharpenings.



Sure - but are you getting any wood cut or just putting miles on your car?


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## s37d (Mar 12, 2010)

BobL said:


> Sure - but are you getting any wood cut or just putting miles on your car?



Yeah it always seems to happen right at the very end of the session. I always have 2 backup chains. I will definitely buy a higher quality chain when I get a chance.


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## BobL (Mar 12, 2010)

s37d said:


> Yeah it always seems to happen right at the very end of the session.


That's handy!



> I always have 2 backup chains.


Yep - nothing worse than being stymied by no back up chains.

It sounds to me like they have a bad batch of chains - I can't believe they would do this deliberately.


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## SilverBox (Mar 14, 2010)

BobL said:


> It sounds to me like they have a bad batch of chains - I can't believe they would do this deliberately.



Its deliberate, not a bad batch, its total junk. It actually cuts pretty good if you keep it sharp and doesn't dull really fast, but the pins and straps are super weak, snap really easy.


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