# Oiler designs for CSM



## banderso (May 5, 2008)

I am looking for an easy-to-build oiler for my CSM. Does anybody have some ideas or pictures they can share?


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## aggiewoodbutchr (May 5, 2008)

Parts from any hardware store.


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## banderso (May 5, 2008)

Does the output "drip" onto the chain, or is it connected to the hole in the bar? Thank's for the picture.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (May 5, 2008)

This is pic one of my previous setups but the concept is the same.


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## harrygrey382 (May 5, 2008)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> This is pic one of my previous setups but the concept is the same.


so the end of the plastic pipe butts against the side of the bar, and the chain almost pulls it out? Do you find this is as effective as drilling a hole in the bar etc.? Does it use more oil for a given amount of lubrication?


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## BobL (May 5, 2008)

My set ups are here.

My small mill with 20" bar I used PVC sewage pipe and garden hose fittings and bolt with a hole in the end so that the oil drip directly on the contact line of the chain and bar. My BIL mill (see sig line for more details) has bolts with holes in the sides of the nose end of the bar - one on each side for when I flip the bar over - and the oil oozes out through the bar groove.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (May 5, 2008)

harrygrey382 said:


> so the end of the plastic pipe butts against the side of the bar, and the chain almost pulls it out? Do you find this is as effective as drilling a hole in the bar etc.? Does it use more oil for a given amount of lubrication?



The chassis of the chain brushes against it. I can't compare it to the drilling method because this has been effective enough to not warrant changing it. One day when I have time I'll probably drill the bar but until then, "if it ain't broke don't fix it" (one of the few times I actually follow that )

I set the flow rate to somewhere in between 1 and 2 drips a second if that gives you an idea.


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## stevethekiwi (May 5, 2008)

i drilled my smaller (42") bars. use lotsa oil or cutting fluid when drilling, and a low drill speed. bars hate heat from drilling.

ive got a similar design to the butcher... i used an old rideon mower fuel tank as an oil reservoir, they are transparent and big enough that i can fill it and forget about it... also a good counterweight for single ended bar mills!

my GB double ended bars came pre drilled!


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## 820wards (May 6, 2008)

banderso said:


> I am looking for an easy-to-build oiler for my CSM. Does anybody have some ideas or pictures they can share?



Here is a picture of a manual pump I'll be using on the nose of my bar. It's a clutch master cylinder from a 1981 Honda Prelude.

jerry-


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## BobL (May 6, 2008)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> I set the flow rate to somewhere in between 1 and 2 drips a second if that gives you an idea.



To quantify this a bit more, 
A drip is about 0.05 mL, so 2 drips per second = 2 x .05 x 0 is ~6 mL/minute. 

This of course has to be added to the fact that the regular oiler on ,
An 880 delivers between 14 and 36 mL/minute
A 660 delivers 10-21 mL/minute
What settings do you use Aggie?

On the BIL Mill I set the the 076 delivers to deliver its max flow of 19 mL/minute and I set my aux oiler to delivers around 20 mL/min on bigger logs and 10 mL/Min on smaller stuff. 

Cheers


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## banderso (May 6, 2008)

Do you use straight bar and chain lube or do you dilute?


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## stevethekiwi (May 6, 2008)

BobL said:


> To quantify this a bit more,
> A drip is about 0.05 mL, so 2 drips per second = 2 x .05 x 0 is ~6 mL/minute.
> 
> This of course has to be added to the fact that the regular oiler on ,
> ...



when going up to the 84" im on 30mL / min on the thrust side, and both oilers turned on full. an extra $5 of oil is small compared to the $100 of chain as far as im concerned! and it cuts better


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## aggiewoodbutchr (May 6, 2008)

BobL said:


> To quantify this a bit more,
> A drip is about 0.05 mL, so 2 drips per second = 2 x .05 x 0 is ~6 mL/minute.
> 
> This of course has to be added to the fact that the regular oiler on ,
> ...



All my saws are set wide open and I hold the manual override (084) open on big cuts.


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## BobL (May 7, 2008)

banderso said:


> Do you use straight bar and chain lube or do you dilute?



Straight.



stevethekiwi said:


> an extra $5 of oil is small compared to the $100 of chain as far as im concerned! and it cuts better


Yep - agree 100%. In some Aussie hardwoods if you don't use enough oil the resin will clog the chain and slow milling to a crawl.


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## Brmorgan (May 14, 2008)

I built one out of an old fire extinguisher turned upside down. The mouth was a standard pipe thread, so I just attached a ball valve and hose and let gravity do the work. I also drilled a 1" hole in the bottom (now the top) of the extinguisher and JB Welded a fitting to it so I can cap it. It's not transparent but it works and it was what I had lying around at the time. I like its shape better too, not as bulky as a washer fluid or fuel tank, and you can just strap it to a standoff using pipe strapping or zip ties.


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## Oden (Nov 16, 2008)

*New Aux oiler*

Hi Guys

I have been reading all your posts on aux oilers for 12 months, finially built one today.

Total cost $45. The aluminium tank from super cheap.

I used Bob's idea about drilling the bar just in front of the sprocket, on close inspection before I started there is a void in there. So the only mod to the bar was to drill the hole. 3/16 first then a 3/8 hole used cutting fluid no trouble at all.

I drilled a centre hole in the 3/8 bolt on the lathe, slotted it with a 4" grinder and boltered it on.

Here are a couple of photos.
Hope to give it a go this week on some red gum out Moree way this week.

Thanks for all the ideas.


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## BobL (Nov 16, 2008)

Cool looking oiler tank - Good to see my idea worked.

I decided against doing that because I would lose cutting length and decided to just drop the oil onto the chain. I'm convinced it does not work as well as feeding the oil thru the groove so might go back to that idea sometime.


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## woodshop (Nov 16, 2008)

Nice job on that oiler. As much milling as I do with my 395XP, I've yet to build and install an aux oiler. I just havn't seen the need for one yet as my chain, even when buried in 30 inches of hardwood, just doesn't seem to get dry enough to warrent one. I have my oiler cranked as high as it will go of cource on my 395, and that just seems to keep up. If I baught or built a larger csm maybe it would be a diff story. Nice job on that one though.


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## Brmorgan (Nov 19, 2008)

I have an old pressure tank from an ancient Coleman white gas camp stove that I've been eyeing up for making an oiler. It's a perfect tank size, but I don't know how well the pressure system would force oil out or how long it would keep enough pressure to be effective. It's one of those ones where you pull a knob out of the side of the tank and then pump it up.. It would be nice to have some pressure to the oil and be able to meter it with a small valve though, and the hose could be much smaller than if one was relying on gravity. I was having a hard time this fall with the 395/33" starting to dry out when cutting some wide, dry fir, and the 660 can barely keep enough on its 25" bar, so if I got a longer one I'd need to add some more oiling capability.


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## BobL (Nov 19, 2008)

Brmorgan said:


> I have an old pressure tank from an ancient Coleman white gas camp stove that I've been eyeing up for making an oiler. It's a perfect tank size, but I don't know how well the pressure system would force oil out or how long it would keep enough pressure to be effective. It's one of those ones where you pull a knob out of the side of the tank and then pump it up.. It would be nice to have some pressure to the oil and be able to meter it with a small valve though, and the hose could be much smaller than if one was relying on gravity. . . . . . .



While it sounds useful I would find having to pump an aux oiler a bit of a nuisance. I like to be able to turn on the aux oiler and forget about it while cutting the whole slab. I don't even like walking around the log to turn it on/ off while stopping to refuel midway thru the log. That is why I set up a remote on off oiler switch. 

The delivery hole on this and other versions of my aux oiler is only 1/8" and it delivers plenty of oil with only a gravity head of only about 12". That is of course at our warmer temperatures - I guess you guys have flow issues at lower temps.


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## Brmorgan (Nov 19, 2008)

BobL said:


> The delivery hole on this and other versions of my aux oiler is only 1/8" and it delivers plenty of oil with only a gravity head of only about 12". That is of course at our warmer temperatures - I guess you guys have flow issues at lower temps.



Yeah, you could say that. Even 10-30 oil is like molasses when the temperature drops below zero. I even buy a bit of winter bar oil and it's the same when I pour it into the saw, but once the saw's running it heats the oil up and it's all good to go. But generally it's not a big issue as I only really do any firewood bucking once the snow flies, and even then only if I HAVE to. I guess you could call me a fairweather miller.


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