# Maul Handle



## sdt7618 (Aug 27, 2007)

This might sound like a stupid question, but whats the best way to replace a maul handle?

7lb maul head, that had a cheap plastic/fibre glass shaft, most of which has bust away inside the head.

next question should I be able to hit the maul with a sledge like a wedge to drive it into the wood? ( the cause of the the above question I think).

can you replace fibre glass handles, or will the replacement have to be wood?

thanks in advance.

Steven


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 28, 2007)

I don't know about replacing fiberglass. As they appear to be epoxied in, just cleaning out the hole could be a big job. All my tools are wooden handle. I replace a handle in them at a rate of about 1 handle every 2 years. It is a sorta relaxing procedure, a couple brews, some pieces broken window glass and shave, shave, try, shave, etc. 

Yes, you can hit the maul with a sledge. One of my annual jobs is to take my grinder to the wedges, maul and sledge grinding down the mushrooms. A lot easier to do it when the mushroom is just starting to form than wait several years until it gets really dangerous.

Harry K


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## Al Smith (Aug 28, 2007)

I don't think it's a good idea to be thumping a splitting maul with a sledge hammer.

I imagine you could replace the fiberglass handle with a wooden one ,hickory is best,good old midwestern USA shagbark.

You could likely clean the residue of the "glass" handle out using an end grinder of sorts.

The selection of the handle is very important.Select one that is straight grained and free of knots.The grains of the wood should run in parrellel with the head of the maul,or sledge handle,or axe for that matter .If you use one that is incorrectly made ,as are a few,it will snap like a match stick in short order.


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## blis (Aug 28, 2007)

Al Smith said:


> .............
> The selection of the handle is very important.Select one that is straight grained and free of knots.The grains of the wood should run in parrellel with the head of the maul,or sledge handle,or axe for that matter .If you use one that is incorrectly made ,as are a few,it will snap like a match stick in short order.



the handle should always be made so that denser heartwood is on the downside of handle and not-so-dense surface wood should be on top side of handle, atleast thats how its done with axe handles...


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 29, 2007)

Al Smith said:


> I don't think it's a good idea to be thumping a splitting maul with a sledge hammer.
> 
> .



Why not? The maul has a poll on it to hit wedges with, can also be hit with a sledge. The force comes out the same either way. Neither tool is hardened so chipping (other than pieces from the 'mushrooms') is not a problem.

Harry K


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## Al Smith (Aug 29, 2007)

Well Harry,beat away.Did you ever really look at the hammer portion of a maul head?You might be surprised that unless it an inexpensive imported tool from India or Indonesia made of remelted Chevy bumpers and 1950 beer cans that the head is hardened.You stand a good chance of driving a goodly sized piece of shrapnel in your shin or eyeball.

You don't thump on an axe head,why would you on a maul head? Do as you wish though,it's your maul.


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## ray benson (Aug 29, 2007)

The mauls thick walls allow striking with a sledge when the maul doesn't go through the wood. An axe with its thin walls will distort and break. The maul face will mushroom and needs grinding at times. I even cut the maul face off that was in bad shape and had a sledge face welded on about 10 years ago.
Top left is the maul. 
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35496&d=1151420761


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## Al Smith (Aug 29, 2007)

This is a cut and paste from a tool usage site.Blacksmiths' or Engineers'


Hammers and Sledges,


Double Face


DESCRIPTION. This is the most commonly used type of sledge hammer and is made in slightly different head configurations. All patterns have crowned striking faces with beveled edges.


PROPER USES. Sledges are designed for general sledging operations in striking wood, metal, concrete or stone. Common uses are drifting heavy timbers and striking spikes, cold chisels, rock drills and hardened nails, and wood splitting wedges.


ABUSE/MISUSE. Never use a sledge to strike a hammer, sledge, or maul. Never use a sledge with a loose or damaged handle.


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## Al Smith (Aug 29, 2007)

*A little more info*

I have a "True temper" maul,made by the Ames company of Ames Iowa,one of the oldest makers of axes,shovels ,sledge hammers etc in the U S of A.It is forged steel,hardened head.

It states ,on a warning,on the handle,and I quote"Striking a hard material with a hardened striking tool could result in bodily injury" end quote.

Now,I'm not arguing this fact and the fact is what anybody does with their tools or how they use them is none of my business.This info was and is just a heads up to a question that was raised.


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 29, 2007)

I have been using a sledge to hit a maul with since I was 8 years old. The most that has ever happened is a mushroom. That shows that the maul is NOT hardened or it would not mushroom. Current maul is at least 30 years old.

I have also had neighbors doing the same thing for about the same length of time and have never heard of a 'chip' coming off unless it was from an overgrown mushroom.

There was an interesting show on hitting hardened tools with hardened tools on 'Mythbusters' They did everything they could to get a hammer to chip, shatter or break and all they got was bent handles. But I also have faith in the 'don't hit hardened with hardened' and I wouldn't do it.

If a maul is not intended to hit a wedge with, why is there a poll on it?

Harry K


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## Al Smith (Aug 29, 2007)

Who said you can't smack a wedge with a maul,not me.The wedge cutting edge is hardened,the stiking surface is not.My maul has a hardened head,your's obviously does not.

I merely pointed out that I really don't think it wise to be driving a maul,not a wedge by using a sledge hammer.I can't ever remember driving a maul in so deep I couldn't get it unstuck with out beating on it.I have stuck an axe where I had to drive wedges to retrieve it.


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## jab6 (Aug 29, 2007)

do what i always do...soon as the original handle breaks..i weld a steel pipe on for a handle then rap it with a soft foam with tape..no more broken handles...works great!!!


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## Brushwacker (Aug 29, 2007)

jab6 said:


> do what i always do...soon as the original handle breaks..i weld a steel pipe on for a handle then rap it with a soft foam with tape..no more broken handles...works great!!!



I wrap my metal handles to. Carpet padding has worked well and old innertubes have worked too. Some fresh tape once in a while is in order.
Very rare for me to drive a wedge for splitting. If the monster maul won't split it, I usually cut it with the chainsaw. or save it for the woodsplitter.
I know a man that was pounding wedges and breathed in a metal fragment that flew off the wedge and my understanding is it went into his lung.


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## SawTroll (Aug 29, 2007)

Why not just replace the maul with a splitting wedge, before using the sledge?

Should be much easier to drive trough the wood block....

I also prefere to split twisted or badly knotted wood with a saw, from the side.


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## Austin1 (Aug 30, 2007)

TreeCo said:


> An Ax handle placed on a growing hickory tree and held in place with re-bar and copper wire. I will make minor adjustments as time goes on.


That is the funniest thing I have seen on this sight! But can't help but think you are serious!:


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## sdt7618 (Aug 30, 2007)

*thanks*

Thanks all for the info.

I did try striking the maul with a sledge for the simple reason, the alder that I was splitting was nasty twisted stuff and is a real PITA to have to change from maul to sledge then back again every five mins!

BTW , gave up and used the chainsaw eventually, but need to change the maul handle as the resin has all burst away inside. Mostly likley cause by me beating away on it...........


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## Al Smith (Aug 30, 2007)

sdt7618 said:


> Thanks all for the info.
> 
> I did try striking the maul with a sledge for the simple reason, the alder that I was splitting was nasty twisted stuff and is a real PITA to have to change from maul to sledge then back again every five mins!
> 
> BTW , gave up and used the chainsaw eventually, but need to change the maul handle as the resin has all burst away inside. Mostly likley cause by me beating away on it...........


Now the rest of the story.  If that be the case ,you might be able to rebed the handle using fiber glass resin.


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 31, 2007)

TreeCo said:


> An Ax handle placed on a growing hickory tree and held in place with re-bar and copper wire. I will make minor adjustments as time goes on.



Does that result in a good handle? Seems it would girdle and kill the tree before it developed any heartwood.

Harry K


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## Al Smith (Aug 31, 2007)

turnkey4099 said:


> Does that result in a good handle? Seems it would girdle and kill the tree before it developed any heartwood.
> 
> Harry K


 Harry,old bud,you have to remember who posted that.Might work but I doubt it.Never the less it is good humor.


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## turnkey4099 (Sep 1, 2007)

TreeCo said:


> This is the first time I've tried it. I've read the Aborigines did it thousands of years ago to fit stone ax heads to wood handles. They would split a sapling and insert the stone ax head and a year or so later the sapling would grow around the stone with a good connection.
> 
> Here is a link to arborsmith. Go a little down the page to see some pics. I have a dozen or so I hope to get set up this fall just for fun.
> 
> http://www.arborsmith.com/



Looks like a long-term project. Keep us informed of the progress. Always interested in the 'far-out' stuff.

Harry K


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## kevlar (Sep 1, 2007)

That's awesome,Why didn't I think of it?When I break a handle I put the maul in the fire and burn out the wood then replace the handle.I know some of you are going to say I ruined the temper but I'm only hitting wood right? oh and I never strike it with a sledge!


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## Haywire Haywood (Sep 1, 2007)

I like fiberglass. The replacement fiberglass handles you buy have a package of 2 part epoxy that comes with them. You put the head on the handle, tap it on so it seals around the bottom and pour in the epoxy. I used a sliver of wood to work it in and let it set for 24 hours.

Ian


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## chowdozer (Sep 2, 2007)

Al Smith said:


> I have a "True temper" maul,made by the Ames company of Ames Iowa,one of the oldest makers of axes,shovels ,sledge hammers etc in the U S of A.It is forged steel,hardened head.
> 
> It states ,on a warning,on the handle,and I quote"Striking a hard material with a hardened striking tool could result in bodily injury" end quote.
> 
> Now,I'm not arguing this fact and the fact is what anybody does with their tools or how they use them is none of my business.This info was and is just a heads up to a question that was raised.




I'll agree with you Al. For 30 years I have hit wedges with a maul or a sledge. This maul is 12-13 years old now and has never been hit with a sledge or shows no sign of mushrooming. If you look closely, there are not even any marks on the contact surface. I don't even know what brand it is. I know it wasn't cheap as I don't buy cheap tools.







Here's one of the wedges I began grinding the mushroom off and lost interest a couple years ago. A good "extra time" project but the wedge was getting too short for my tastes anyway.





Here is why you wear eye protection when splitting.





When I look at my maul, I can see it is forged. I can see the forging line. Look at your own maul for a forging line. Wedges are cast, you can see the granular structure in the picture of the broken wedge. My guess is that sledges will also be forged. I'm not going to hit a forged maul head with a forged sledge head. Bad things happen. I'm not too lazy to use the correct tool. Use a maul correctly and it will last a lifetime.


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## Al Smith (Sep 2, 2007)

Wedges aren't really cast,they are forged as a general rule of carbon steel.The cutting edge is hardened but the striking head is left soft,somewhat like a cold chisel.Cast I'm afraid would not withstand the abuse of a sledge hammer.

I can see by the handle on that maul that your aim is about like mine,you miss some times. Ha,that's one reason I don't swing a razor sharp broad axe like some of the ones involved in timber sports.I think I would wack my toes off.


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## chowdozer (Sep 2, 2007)

Al Smith said:


> Wedges aren't really cast,they are forged as a general rule of carbon steel.The cutting edge is hardened but the striking head is left soft,somewhat like a cold chisel.Cast I'm afraid would not withstand the abuse of a sledge hammer.
> 
> I can see by the handle on that maul that your aim is about like mine,you miss some times. Ha,that's one reason I don't swing a razor sharp broad axe like some of the ones involved in timber sports.I think I would wack my toes off.




Al, I just went by what the wedge looked like after part of it became a projectile. It sure looks cast, very granular. That maul handle is about 4 years old now. The garfs are from pounding the wedge too far in and hitting the round with the handle.


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## blis (Sep 2, 2007)

chowdozer said:


> Al, I just went by what the wedge looked like after part of it became a projectile. It sure looks cast, very granular. That maul handle is about 4 years old now. The garfs are from pounding the wedge too far in and hitting the round with the handle.



you know, you should always replace handle if you hit something with the throat of handle.... but heck, even i dont bother to do it with axes...


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## Al Smith (Sep 2, 2007)

chowdozer said:


> Al, I just went by what the wedge looked like after part of it became a projectile. It sure looks cast, very granular. That maul handle is about 4 years old now. The garfs are from pounding the wedge too far in and hitting the round with the handle.


 Repeated blows from a sledge hammer will cause the steel to fatigue ,often giving it a granular appearance.It somehow alters the structure of the metal.

Which brings up a safety issue.Periodically before the mushrooming gets out of hand,it should be ground off or faced.A piece of shrapnel buried in your shin does not make a happy wood splitter,take it from one who knows.


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## Richard Reames (Sep 3, 2007)

I found that the tree will stay alive for quite some time growing a very tight fit. Shrinkage after harvesting can be overcome by wedges or soaking if you really going to put it work. Surely a grow tool belongs in a museum or an art gallery and not whacked around like any common tool. One cool aspect of this is when practiced while coppicing, fast growing sprouts from a recently felled tree can be made into tool handles every 1 to 3 years depending on the species. I suppose a polarded tree could produce a large quick crop also. lots more info on this in my book _Arborsculpture- Solutions for a Small Planet_.
Unabashed self promoter- Richard Reames
http://www.arborsmith.com


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## logbutcher (Sep 3, 2007)

*Thank You !*



Richard Reames said:


> I found that the tree will stay alive for quite some time growing a very tight fit. Shrinkage after harvesting can be overcome by wedges or soaking if you really going to put it work. Surely a grow tool belongs in a museum or an art gallery and not whacked around like any common tool. One cool aspect of this is when practiced while coppicing, fast growing sprouts from a recently felled tree can be made into tool handles every 1 to 3 years depending on the species. I suppose a polarded tree could produce a large quick crop also. lots more info on this in my book _Arborsculpture- Solutions for a Small Planet_.
> Unabashed self promoter- Richard Reames
> http://www.arborsmith.com



Fascinating, and novel Richard. Thanks for one super concept.


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