# Butt-ropeing/hitching



## TreEmergencyB (Apr 15, 2009)

Have been climbing trees for about 6 monthes now work for a small company one guy teaching me. He always wants to use the block for lets say taking down chunks of wood on a single spar spruce. I was a ground guy for 2 1/2 years for another guy ISA certified arborist and he hardly ever used the block. The guy i work with now doesnt know how to butt rope and i would like to know. i think i would save time rather than setting up a false crotch the whole way down a tree. 

Thanks for the help


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## John464 (Apr 15, 2009)

what exactly are you asking? im confused


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## tree md (Apr 15, 2009)

Butt hitching is the old school way. We used to call that "collaring" the tree down. I agree that it is a little quicker but it is harder on the ropes and creates more shock on the rope and the tree. Blocking is safer and easier on your ropes.


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## TreEmergencyB (Apr 15, 2009)

tree md said:


> Butt hitching is the old school way. We used to call that "collaring" the tree down. I agree that it is a little quicker but it is harder on the ropes and creates more shock on the rope and the tree. Blocking is safer and easier on your ropes.



Cool thanks for the advice i would still like to know how just for smaller pieces and for once in a while insteed of haulin a block up for one or two cuts, is there a better way cause false crothchin with a block still puts a lot of stress on the rope via shock loading same as buttropin


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## tree md (Apr 15, 2009)

I will still lower the top and smaller chunks with just a rope a lot of the time to speed up production but anytime I get into big wood the block comes out. The block will actually reduce shock if used properly with a good rope man who is experienced at lowering with a block.


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## Slvrmple72 (Apr 15, 2009)

There are two popular methods for rigging down trees during removals.
The older method was crotch rigging and using the tree itself for friction to slow/control the descent of the cut piece. Advantages of quick setup and less climbing for a climber who is skilled with a throwline make this a very effective method and ideal for quick little jobs/limbs when setting up a block would be more labor intensive. Disadvantages include the excessive wear and tear on the ropes fibers from having dirt and debris pushed into the inner core of the rope as well as the tearing up of the outer sheathing on rough bark. The friction control compared to the use of a friction device is also more "jerky" and uneven.
The newer method involves the use of arborist blocks and friction devices like the portawrap to reduce the amount of wear and tear on the rope from debris. The control of friction is more precise and controlled but this method does involve more setup work on the part of the climber and ground crew as well as the learning curve involved to run the rope through the portawrap properly. However, with the positioning of one to two blocks in the canopy of the tree a climber and groundcrew can quickly and efficiently dismantle a tree. 
Both methods involve tieing the limb to be cut with a secure knot that can be easily untied by the groundcrew once the limb is down. The limb can be tied at its butt, midpoint, tip-tied, or tied at multiple points to balance it during removal. I hope this helps answer your question.-Kevin


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## limbwalker54 (Apr 15, 2009)

*False Crotch Butt Hitch*

I think what you are asking is the procedure for butt-hitching wood down WITHOUT the use of a block. This involves cutting a "false crotch" rig point in the trunk wood. I will look through my archives and see if I have a picture of this rather than the lengthy description....

Give me a few hours.....


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## TreEmergencyB (Apr 15, 2009)

limbwalker54 said:


> I think what you are asking is the procedure for butt-hitching wood down WITHOUT the use of a block. This involves cutting a "false crotch" rig point in the trunk wood. I will look through my archives and see if I have a picture of this rather than the lengthy description....
> 
> Give me a few hours.....



That might be usefull but more using the rope itself as a false crotch, i think he wraped the rope around and made a half hitch, then went up and around the piece to be cut and tied it. when it fell it would hang on the rope around the tree under the cut


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## limbwalker54 (Apr 15, 2009)

Yes, it is two half hitches and a running bowline, to be exact.

The notch goes between the first and second half hitches, the running bowline is on top.

This is a standard butt hitch that can be used whenever necessary. But when rigging the WOOD, where no natural crotches are left, one must have somewhere for the rope to "anchor". Thus we cut a false crotch for the rope to "sit" in. 

I hardly ever use this, as we have blocks that are FAR less impact on a rope. 

I thought I had a few pictures of the ol' school way but I have none.


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## TreEmergencyB (Apr 15, 2009)

cool thanks alot for all the advice, i just found this web site and hopin i can get some good info.


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## John464 (Apr 15, 2009)

for small loads you can use nylon loop runners and carabiners or small pulley. quicker than the old school but hitch and less wear on your rope. for bigger loads step up to a whoppie sling and a lowering block. 

I was taught using butt hitching like you describe and havent used that method in years. much too hard on your ropes and can cause binding


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## Blakesmaster (Apr 15, 2009)

Butt hitching/ natural crotching vs. the BLOCK

This is something I've sent round and round in my head the past year since I joined AS. I was taught the old school way and in my opinion it is much quicker for many applications. Setting a block up in a tree 20 different times seems ridiculous to me and I'd much rather run my rope through crotches cause they're usually everywhere. In situations that they're not, then the block I can agree is appropriate. Or if you're in a large tree where a majority of the branches can be rigged back to one point. Yes, put a block there. But I am not going to move a block over and over again. Yes it's harder on the ropes but that's why I buy 5/8ths super braid rope, for it's abrasion resistence. Even if I have to buy a new reel every year, I'll still have saved more than enough time to justify the cost. I can set a but hitch and flop a top off a spruce faster than anyone can set a block.


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## tree md (Apr 15, 2009)

limbwalker54 said:


> Yes, it is two half hitches and a running bowline, to be exact.
> 
> The notch goes between the first and second half hitches, the running bowline is on top.
> 
> ...



I always used a half hitch on the bottom and terminated with a claw hitch (we called it a cross claw). No need for a half hitch on top this way and less chance of the chunk slipping loose than using a running bowline, also quicker than having to tie two hitches and terminate with a bowline. I would cut notches for bigger wood as well but haven't done it that way in over 10 years. Like you said, it is much rougher on ropes and you cant soften the shock like you can with a block.

I carry a small loop runner with a caribiner on my saddle now to set a quick false crotch for tops and small limbs. I will still sometimes collar the top of a spar down where the wood is small, maybe two or three chunks before I call for the block. It's quicker that way I believe but the block definitely is the best way to go once you get into big wood.


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## ozzy42 (Apr 15, 2009)

Blakesmaster said:


> Butt hitching/ natural crotching vs. the BLOCK
> 
> This is something I've sent round and round in my head the past year since I joined AS. I was taught the old school way and in my opinion it is much quicker for many applications. Setting a block up in a tree 20 different times seems ridiculous to me and I'd much rather run my rope through crotches cause they're usually everywhere. In situations that they're not, then the block I can agree is appropriate. Or if you're in a large tree where a majority of the branches can be rigged back to one point. Yes, put a block there. But I am not going to move a block over and over again. Yes it's harder on the ropes but that's why I buy 5/8ths super braid rope, for it's abrasion resistence. Even if I have to buy a new reel every year, I'll still have saved more than enough time to justify the cost. I can set a but hitch and flop a top off a spruce faster than anyone can set a block.



:agree2:Hope I don't get lambasted too bad for saying so ,but I am old school,and never have used a block or pulley of any kind.

Yes ,I can see the advantages in a few situations,but I've gotten along just fine without them.

I buy a new climbing rope apr. once a year.

For the limb line I run it over a natural fork ,and will snake it around a few limbs if I only have one guy on the ground,and he can't get a wrap on anything .
I have never broken a limb line from shockloading it ,so I guess running thru crotches hasn't hurt them too bad.

Again,I'm not knocking anybody that uses them.
They're just not for me.


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## tree md (Apr 15, 2009)

I'm a little old school, a little new. I use whatever technique make the most sense for any given situation.

One other place where the butt hitch comes in real handy is when your taking one off of a house and don't want to take the chance of someone slipping and losing the log on the roof and have it go tumbling off the roof.


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