# tenex rope nothin better



## (WLL) (Nov 7, 2006)

:rockn:


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## (WLL) (Nov 7, 2006)

*does anyone else use this stuff*




(WLL) said:


> :rockn:


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## beowulf343 (Nov 7, 2006)

Ok? So what makes it so great? Why is it better than every other rope out there?


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## (WLL) (Nov 7, 2006)

*tenex splice frendly*



beowulf343 said:


> Ok? So what makes it so great? Why is it better than every other rope out there?


Tenex can be spliced in 10 mins this makes loopies and woopies, custom sec. ft. lock friction hitch, rope saves, eye n eyes and many more


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## KentuckySawyer (Nov 7, 2006)

Yes, tenex does in fact rule. Yalex and walex are good too. I prefer tenex for friction hitches.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Nov 8, 2006)

For rigging slings I use Tenex, for friction hitch I use Stable Braid. That is till I run out and buy some more high tech fiber 8mm cord.


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## TheTreeSpyder (Nov 8, 2006)

Tenex on a straight pull gives round device; but on an arc gives flat. Flat is stronger on arc cuz can be leveraged against less; due to the lack of dimension on the leveraged/bent axis.

So, moving thru a curve/arc can be undesirable(more drag/footprint and can tear up easier); but sitting on tight fixed arc (like as friction hitch around a small host/line) the flat footprint just gives more grab on host; with less tensile 'strength loss' as opposed to a round cord for friction hitch IMLHO.


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## JohN Dee (Nov 8, 2006)

(WLL), I have never used Tenex rope, I hear it is pretty good though. Why don't you give the forum and your post some input about the pro's and con's of the rope?

OFF TOPIC: (WLL), why don't you put more input into all your posts rather then just spamming around the forums, my post count is not that high because I tend to just read around and put in my input when i feel it is needed, but you on the other hand have made several-many posts in alot of the threads i've read and nearly every single one is just spam:spam: . Just saying "yeah" and "cool" in replies isn't building our rep around here - Post count does not build or show how good your reputation. It's the quality of your posts that build a good rep and giving something back to the community.

Just my two cents, 
JohN Dee


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## Climb020 (Nov 9, 2006)

What makes tenex good is that it can be spliced easily. IMO that is the only reason. I only use it on slings and balancers. If it didn;t splice easy, I would most likely use more double braid. Bad thing about tenex is it gets picked apart too easily. Out of all the ropes I have, tenex happens to be the one that wears out the fastest.


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## Ekka (Nov 9, 2006)

Downside is that it pics easy and no outer/inner core like double braid ... less durable on rough bark etc if you natural crotch but is very strong compared to other ropes of same dia.

I use it as slings and anchor ropes where it operates in a static way ... but for rigging rope I use double braid, lot tougher if it's in the war zone of branches, bark, sticks etc.

How does it perform as a lowering rope running thru 2 pulleys up top then a bollard or PortyIII?


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## Blinky (Nov 9, 2006)

Ekka said:


> ...
> 
> I use it as slings and anchor ropes where it operates in a static way ... but for rigging rope I use double braid, lot tougher if it's in the war zone of branches, bark, sticks etc.
> ...



Just trying to sort this out...
Do you mean 'static way' as in never use it with the rigging point below the work, or would you trust it anchoring a block that had to catch a dynamic load?


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Nov 9, 2006)

He's saying he uses it where the rope just sits there, not where it running back and forth. Sling, yes, bull rope, no.


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## (WLL) (Nov 9, 2006)

Blinky said:


> Just trying to sort this out...
> Do you mean 'static way' as in never use it with the rigging point below the work, or would you trust it anchoring a block that had to catch a dynamic load?


this stuff is cheep and i use it for sfl custom length smooth n streamline i also make friction savor with ring n biner and cover bridge with nylon tube any color eye 2 eye. makes nice bridge on b2 saddle just cover with nylon tube. makes chit load more and comes in different grades n sizes 3/8 2 1in great stuff n very strong :rockn:


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## (WLL) (Dec 25, 2006)

*tenex rules welcome 2 last week!*

:welcome: here is some pics of what i use it 4. if used in the correct manor tenex has no cons expect most tree gear suppliers dont sell by the foot. tenex does wear out fast if u use in wrong manor like climbing hitch but works good on a lanyard. i have never used it for lowering or a climbing hitch 4 obvious reasons. tenex does work great on a holding hitch where there is little 2 no heat also makes a nice bridge on b2 when covered by a nylon tube. it it picks so easily dont use where it will get picked. :monkeys: 

 hay johndee thanx 4 neg rep points as u said u never even used the stuff. dont knock it till u try it.:spam:


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## JohN Dee (Dec 26, 2006)

Hey WLL I gave you neg points *back then* for the spam. I wasn't knockin' the rope. That would be very naive' of myself because i've never used it.


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## Climb020 (Dec 26, 2006)

(WLL) said:


> :welcome: here is some pics of what i use it 4. if used in the correct manor tenex has no cons expect most tree gear suppliers dont sell by the foot. tenex does wear out fast if u use in wrong manor like climbing hitch but works good on a lanyard. i have never used it for lowering or a climbing hitch 4 obvious reasons. tenex does work great on a holding hitch where there is little 2 no heat also makes a nice bridge on b2 when covered by a nylon tube. it it picks so easily dont use where it will get picked. :monkeys:
> 
> hay johndee thanx 4 neg rep points as u said u never even used the stuff. dont knock it till u try it.:spam:



It is wrong to use tenex for your climbing hitch?? Please where ever did you here this. That is why just about most suppliers sell it like this. IMO, the only reason he must like it cause it must be the only stuff he can splice because he sure makes a point of showing all his pics. No big deal though, being anyone could learn to splice this with the brummel in a mintue or two, if your slow.


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## TheTreeSpyder (Dec 26, 2006)

i think for it's strength, Tenex is light and cheap. The lack of core allows it to be light, spliceable, lay flat on arc and no strength loss from outer mantle on inner core frictions.

i still like triple noose/fisherpersons for eyes when i use it for a friction hitch; preferring the self tending Icicle/ Sailor's Gripping Hitch family with it. i think the flatter lay on arc of tight bight around life line leaves it stronger by leveraging it less. Also, a different gripping footprint than a round cord device in same position.


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## rahtreelimbs (Dec 26, 2006)

:bang:


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Dec 26, 2006)

People tend to say Tenex when what they really mean is a hollow core, 12 strand rope. What many people fail to realize is there are many different materials used to make 12 strand ropes.
For making slings, price is a factor, but really not much of one because slings are short, so if you make a two foot sling and pay 50 cents a foot for Tenex, verses $1.25 a foot for some good rope, you only save about what? $3.
Or you could look at it in terms of cost per pound of breaking strength. Then Tenex doesn't look so good compared to the better ropes like Amsteel, Tech-12 or Yalex, to name a few.
I like slings I have to carry on my saddle, I want to be as small and light as possible to get the job done. I don't want to carry around big bulky Tenex, when I can carry little thin Amsteel and have the same strength.
When it comes down to it though, I have never liked 12 strand for any tree work applications. There are alway better choices.


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## ddhlakebound (Dec 26, 2006)

JohN Dee said:


> (WLL), I have never used Tenex rope, I hear it is pretty good though. Why don't you give the forum and your post some input about the pro's and con's of the rope?
> 
> OFF TOPIC: (WLL), why don't you put more input into all your posts rather then just spamming around the forums, my post count is not that high because I tend to just read around and put in my input when i feel it is needed, but you on the other hand have made several-many posts in alot of the threads i've read and nearly every single one is just spam:spam: . Just saying "yeah" and "cool" in replies isn't building our rep around here - Post count does not build or show how good your reputation. It's the quality of your posts that build a good rep and giving something back to the community.
> 
> ...



 Good posting.........sage advice for the guy who can start a thread with four words and a guitar smilie, and whose other claims to fame are that he's been in tree work for 15 years at age 26, and that he has 3 GRCS's, (Oh, by the way, did you know you can make them? Its EZ.)


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## (WLL) (Dec 26, 2006)

*sorry*



ddhlakebound said:


> Good posting.........sage advice for the guy who can start a thread with four words and a guitar smilie, and whose other claims to fame are that he's been in tree work for 15 years at age 26, and that he has 3 GRCS's, (Oh, by the way, did you know you can make them? Its EZ.)


 what i ment 2 say is i started in the biz at 15yrs old did i say the grcs is easy 2 make with the 3 i have i only like 1 of them they were made by Don at Gouldies welding on allentown rd in montgomery county Pa. i think he is the owners son. u can buy the winch on ebay like i did the first 2 but i recomend a new1 from boaters world because i know its new and tight


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## TheTreeSpyder (Dec 26, 2006)

*A time and place for all things*

i hope it is clear what MM pointed out about Static and Dynamic Loading vs. Static & Dynamic Position; that Ekka referred to.

i think nothing is perfect, and Tenex is good for some applications. Amsteel is spliceable, but pretty slippery. Some of our high priced cords are pretty stiff/ easily leveraged around the tight bight of a lifeline, to lose a lot of their high strength etc. For sure Amsteel being 7x stronger than steel yet floats on water is better weight to tensile ratio than Tenex and many other things.

i carry Sherrill Foins + Dyneema $lings for light strength; but also 2 steel krabs for their utility and as throw weights to cover all bases. i do like 3/8" Tenex for friction hitch; but then i liked 3strand for Taut/Blake's split tail too. i do have a friction hitch that will hold in Dyneema slings (round rope and even 1" flat loop) if they break, giving adjsutable eye to eye sling; but can't find name of it/ will have to draw sometime. 

i don't think most rounds grip the same, nor maintain that great strength on as tight a bight as Tenex. Tenex doesn't improperly distort like a round cord or flat rope/webbing; it is automatically flat when it should be and round when it should be to maximize i think. This tendency even can kinda screw up the magician's trick of making a what knot or 'granny + thief = grief knot'. For the Tenex can lock even if the whatnot/grief knot is in half hitch lock or open mode; fairly well (after some travel); not just walk off the job if the knot isn't dressed into half hitches properly as classically noted in round cord. Sailor's will take the core out of a line to make it lay flat and grip another line or mast (like Tenex does); like to hang a pulley jig on spar or to pull on line; and call it a selvagee.

16 strand core is just to keep rope round, otherwise it is kinda a 16 strand 12(plus a lil stiffer to make it stay round)? (Though i have collapsed/flattened some hollow/12 strand ArborPlex in my time). If a tree can have half it's inner core missing, if no outside violation to diameter, and only be less 6% of it's strength; what of rope?

Another consideration in price; is width; black widow will cut into hand and bark because for that price and tensile ratio; ya get skinny line holding a lot of weight; making it knife like.


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## NickfromWI (Jan 7, 2007)

(WLL) said:


> this stuff is cheep and i use it for sfl custom length smooth n streamline i also make friction savor with ring n biner and cover bridge with nylon tube any color eye 2 eye. makes nice bridge on b2 saddle just cover with nylon tube. makes chit load more and comes in different grades n sizes 3/8 2 1in great stuff n very strong :rockn:



I don't like using tenex/yalex for a bridge on saddles. You can't make it very short. I like mine to be around 8".

Have you found a way to make an eye-eye that short with this rope?

love
nick


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## NickfromWI (Jan 7, 2007)

Mike Maas said:


> People tend to say Tenex when what they really mean is a hollow core, 12 strand rope. What many people fail to realize is there are many different materials used to make 12 strand ropes.
> For making slings, price is a factor, but really not much of one because slings are short, so if you make a two foot sling and pay 50 cents a foot for Tenex, verses $1.25 a foot for some good rope, you only save about what? $3.
> Or you could look at it in terms of cost per pound of breaking strength. Then Tenex doesn't look so good compared to the better ropes like Amsteel, Tech-12 or Yalex, to name a few.
> I like slings I have to carry on my saddle, I want to be as small and light as possible to get the job done. I don't want to carry around big bulky Tenex, when I can carry little thin Amsteel and have the same strength.
> When it comes down to it though, I have never liked 12 strand for any tree work applications. There are alway better choices.



Great post!


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## (WLL) (Jan 7, 2007)

NickfromWI said:


> I don't like using tenex/yalex for a bridge on saddles. You can't make it very short. I like mine to be around 8".
> 
> Have you found a way to make an eye-eye that short with this rope?
> 
> ...



with a bremble lock u can make small eye & eyes with a short burried tail. bremble locking does take away from the brk strength. im not sure if bremble lock is the right name but it is similar. u must always stitch lock 4 extra safety using 1 fid length and 1 strand of the same rope or similar construction.


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## NickfromWI (Jan 7, 2007)

Locking Brummell or it might be Locking Brummel. 

There is some dispute, or different trains of thought as to wether or not a locked Brummell should be spliced with a long or short bury. Some say, "the lock IS the splice" and so a short (long fid?) tail would be acceptable. Some say the lock is simply there to keep the splice from slipping and the strength comes from the bury, so it's essential to maintain normal buried tail length.

I like short tails on a locked Brummell, personally.

love
nick


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