# husqvarna 268 questions



## fast5 (Aug 19, 2010)

I understood that the husqvarna 268 xp was a professional saw, untill I went to the husky dealer and was told that they never made a 268 xp only a 272xp because the 268 was a homeowner open port version, and the 272 was the pro model with scavenged loop (closed ports). Now here is my problem, I have 2 husqvarna 268 xp saws that say professional on the side of them. 

Did they make 268 xp's with open ports?

I have a 28" bar 3/8" .050 on my saw with a full skip, round ground chisel chain and seems to run it fine, not often is the bar buried, and I cut mostly alder maple and fir. I also have the oregon power match system with a 7 tooth floating rim sprocket and was curious if it would cut faster with an 8 tooth or would I loose to much on the low end torque? The muffler is opened up and the saw seems to have good power.

One of my 268 xp's has a W on the black ID tag. I have heard several versions of what this is. I was told it means wrap handle and also west coast version. Is the full wrap handle the only difference? I noticed this one has double dogs and my other 268 xp has only one, power seems to be pretty equal.

Thank you for looking and I am sorry that is a lot of brain picking at once, but this place is filled with people full of information (hopefully semi correct information).


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## SkippyKtm (Aug 19, 2010)

I did a search, and found a post from sawtroll:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=1560541&postcount=4


> I will try....
> 268se/xp; Higher performance versions of the 266se/xp. Closed ports, 67cc.
> 
> 272xp; Replaced the 268xp, 72.2cc. All the 272s were xps with closed ports.
> ...


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## Cliff R (Aug 19, 2010)

"Did they make 268 xp's with open ports?"

All the 268XP's I've seen had closed port P/C's.

They may have made open port versions at some point, not sure? Even searching different IPL's, the 268's were in production for many years, and part numbers for different P/C's may not indicate if they were open or closed port

They are great saws, but to this day I can't understand why Husqvarna made them without a compression release?........Cliff


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## Cantdog (Aug 19, 2010)

Cliff R said:


> Did they make 268 xp's with open ports?
> 
> All the 268XP's I've seen had closed port P/C's.
> 
> ...



Yes they did make a 268 with open ports and a flatside (nonwindowed) piston. These P&Cs were made by Gilardoni. These were the last version of the 268 and they were detuned and dropped the XP designation. They only made the 268 in the XP version until they made this change. The straight 268 appeared around the time they introduced the 272XP. That is how I understand it any way.

To the OP your dealer is either new at it or very young or not a very good dealer at all. To tell you Husqvarna never made the 268XP is wrong and way out of line as Cliff said they made the XP for many yrs and the non XP for but very few.

The 61/268XP ported conversion in my sig I ran a long time with a ported Gilardoni open port 268 P&C. It was a great improvement over the 61. However when I changed to the Mahle XP P&C and ported that it was a great improvement over the Gilardoni!!!


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## spike60 (Aug 19, 2010)

Cantdog said:


> Yes they did make a 268 with open ports and a flatside (nonwindowed) piston. These P&Cs were made by Gilardoni. These were the last version of the 268 and they were detuned and dropped the XP designation. They only made the 268 in the XP version until they made this change. The straight 268 appeared around the time they introduced the 272XP. That is how I understand it any way.
> 
> To the OP your dealer is either new at it or very young or not a very good dealer at all. To tell you Husqvarna never made the 268XP is wrong and way out of line as Cliff said they made the XP for many yrs and the non XP for but very few.
> 
> The 61/268XP ported conversion in my sig I ran a long time with a ported Gilardoni open port 268 P&C. It was a great improvement over the 61. However when I changed to the Mahle XP P&C and ported that it was a great improvement over the Gilardoni!!!



:agree2:

Easiest way to look at this is that at the end of it's run, the 268XP sort of split off into two different saws. The 272XP and the non-XP 268. The 272XP was obviously the intended "replacement" for the 268XP, while the non-XP 268 was slotted in below it; similar to what would come later with the 372XP and 365.


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## SawTroll (Aug 19, 2010)

Cantdog said:


> they did make a 268 with open ports and a flatside (nonwindowed) piston. These P&Cs were made by Gilardoni. *These were the last version of the 268 and they were detuned and dropped the XP designation.* They only made the 268 in the XP version until they made this change. The straight 268 appeared around the time they introduced the 272XP. That is how I understand it any way.
> 
> To the OP your dealer is either new at it or very young or not a very good dealer at all. To tell you Husqvarna never made the 268XP is wrong and way out of line as Cliff said they made the XP for many yrs and the non XP for but very few. ....



:agree2: Except that the open port 268 acually were made for a longer time than the SE/XP..... This doesn't excuse that the dealer didn't know about the 268xp though, they were made for about 5 years (1987-1991).


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## SawTroll (Aug 19, 2010)

spike60 said:


> :agree2:
> 
> Easiest way to look at this is that at the end of it's run, the 268XP sort of split off into two different saws. The 272XP and the non-XP 268. The 272XP was obviously the intended "replacement" for the 268XP, while the non-XP 268 was slotted in below it; similar to what would come later with the 372XP and 365.



:agree2:


...but then I toss the 268 Special into the picture, just to add confusion.....


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## Swamp Yankee (Aug 19, 2010)

A tale of two saws

The 268XP was a closed port pro saw. Had one and loved it. The originals believe it or not actually had a paper air filter. The 268XP took over for the 266 SE which in its own right was one of the best performing, and most dependable mid-range saws of its time.

The 268 that came along after the 272 XP more closely resembled what Husky now calls the their mid range line the Landowner series. Wasn't a bad saw, but not a 268XP.

Take Care


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## SawTroll (Aug 19, 2010)

Cliff R said:


> Did they make 268 xp's with open ports?
> ....



NO! 268, yes - 268xp, no.


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## Cantdog (Aug 19, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> :agree2: Except that the open port 268 acually were made for a longer time than the SE/XP..... This doesn't excuse that the dealer didn't know about the 268xp though, they were made for about 5 years (1987-1991).



I didn't know that the 268 ran longer than the XP. If they started in 1991 when did they end production of these?


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## SawTroll (Aug 19, 2010)

Cantdog said:


> I didn't know that the 268 ran longer than the XP. If they started in 1991 when did they end production of these?



The newest IPL I have found was dated 2001-10, but I know they have been made in Brazil after that!


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## Kennygee (Aug 19, 2010)

*Open Vs closed*

I might be wrong, probably am , but the closed port cylinder will have "humps" on base of cylinder, open port will be a little further up.


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## Freehand (Aug 19, 2010)

Here's a pic of my straight 268 piston...sans windows......


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## fast5 (Aug 19, 2010)

*Wow! lots of information quick*

That did not take any time at all to get husky schooled on the 268 line. 

Thank you all for taking the time to share what you know. 

Does anybody know about the W on the black id tag next to the oil fill hole? Or about running an 8 tooth sprocket? I am sure somebody knows . I am really lucky to have found this site, you guys seem great and I can look for hours and learn tons. 

My father used to have a saw shop when I was a young kid, after he worked in the woods, now he is retired so we sit around in the evening and play around with old saws (kind of for old times). My son is starting to get interested now and just repaired and sold his first homelite ez automatic at 7 years old . It is pretty neat to have 3 generations out there polishing up saws. We have much to learn still I hope you gentlemen don't mind the brain picking. 

Thank you all for your help it is greatly appreciated.


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## fast5 (Aug 19, 2010)

Kennygee said:


> I might be wrong, probably am , but the closed port cylinder will have "humps" on base of cylinder, open port will be a little further up.



Kennygee, you sound like me, if you figure you are wrong to start with you are never really wrong, right .


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## SkippyKtm (Aug 19, 2010)

fast5 said:


> That did not take any time at all to get husky schooled on the 268 line.
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time to share what you know.
> 
> ...



Welcome to Arboristsite, BTW!


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## fast5 (Aug 19, 2010)

Thank you skippyKtm! It really is a pleasure


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## SawTroll (Aug 19, 2010)

fast5 said:


> Does anybody know about the W on the black id tag next to the oil fill hole? Or about running an 8 tooth sprocket? I am sure somebody knows . I am really lucky to have found this site, you guys seem great and I can look for hours and learn tons. .....



I am pretty sure it refers to a "West-coast" version, with the full wrap handlebar. It may have come with dual and/or larger dawgs as well.

I don't think an 8-pin is a good idea, unless you use a shorter than "normal" bar. Of course it depends on the wood as well, not just the bar.

Just try it, rims are cheap!


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## sjames (Aug 19, 2010)

are the cases the same 268/268xp, I have one xp, and have an opportunity to buy another with a broken AV mount on one side of the case. I'm hoping I can get a 268 case and still have a xp saw.


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## fast5 (Aug 19, 2010)

Thanks saw troll (your user name makes me chuckle everytime I see it with the little picture) I think I will try the 8 tooth, I will let you know how it works out. As far as the W that was kind of what I figured. You don't see many 268's with full wrap handles, or at least I don't on the west coast. I will post a couple of pictures of the saw this evening. I think it is pretty clean for the age ( 1988 I believe ) and it is a super good firewood saw, good power to weight and pretty comfortable to run. Not sure if you know of any cons to the saw that I should be aware of. 

Thanks for the information.


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## fast5 (Aug 19, 2010)

Here are a couple of pictures of my girls ( husky 268 xp-w and the little stihl stinker 026):

Also do you know if anybody has a cylinder and piston for a stihl 056 mag II? I am pretty sure it is a 56mm bore. Mine ate a ring 
Thanks


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## fast5 (Aug 20, 2010)

HA!  I just figured out how to put a picture in! I think I did. Sorry about posting twice just trying to figure it out. I am much better with a saw than I am with a computer


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## Cantdog (Aug 20, 2010)

That is one clean and nice looking 268XP!!


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## Cantdog (Aug 20, 2010)

sjames said:


> are the cases the same 268/268xp, I have one xp, and have an opportunity to buy another with a broken AV mount on one side of the case. I'm hoping I can get a 268 case and still have a xp saw.



Yes the cases, crankshafts and oil pumps are the same. As well as the 61, 66, 266, 268, and the 272. The only difference is that somewhere along the way they changed the crank and clutch from a coarse thread to a fine thread. But that may well have happened before they even came out with the 268XP. Not sure. Not only that but the 625, 630 and 670 Jonsered are all the same cases/cranks as well just a different color!!


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## SawTroll (Aug 20, 2010)

Cantdog said:


> That is one clean and nice looking 268XP!!




:agree2: - except for the wrap handle of course.....:biggrinbounce2:


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## fast5 (Aug 20, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> :agree2: - except for the wrap handle of course.....:biggrinbounce2:



Thank you, not a wrap handle fan?


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## fast5 (Aug 20, 2010)

Cantdog said:


> That is one clean and nice looking 268XP!!



Thanks, she was pretty rough when I got her.


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## SawTroll (Aug 20, 2010)

fast5 said:


> Thank you, not a wrap handle fan?




No need for them here - and a lot of other places. They are made for a special purpose, and most people have no need for them.


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## Cantdog (Aug 20, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> No need for them here - and a lot of other places. They are made for a special purpose, and most people have no need for them.



No you don't see many around here either. But I don't mind the way they look. Niko what is the purpose, I thought it was just to keep the saws from rubbing together in the back of the truck????:hmm3grin2orange:


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## SawTroll (Aug 20, 2010)

Cantdog said:


> No you don't see many around here either. But I don't mind the way they look. Niko what is the purpose, I thought it was just to keep the saws from rubbing together in the back of the truck????:hmm3grin2orange:



Cutting in steep terrain, when you can't access the tree from the side you prefer.


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## andrethegiant70 (Aug 20, 2010)

Cantdog said:


> Yes the cases, crankshafts and oil pumps are the same. As well as the 61, 66, 266, 268, and the 272. The only difference is that somewhere along the way they changed the crank and clutch from a coarse thread to a fine thread. But that may well have happened before they even came out with the 268XP. Not sure. Not only that but the 625, 630 and 670 Jonsered are all the same cases/cranks as well just a different color!!



This is mostly true, but there are a few differences in the cases of some of these models... for instance, you can't make a high top 272 out of an old 61 as the case isn't drilled out for the filter base mounts. If I recall correctly, there may also be some case casting differences in the area of the ignition. I've heard that a newer, single ignition setup won't necessarily bolt onto a case made to take a two piece ignition... something about clearance under the single-piece ignition. I haven't run into this one myself, though, so it's just heresay. 

These cases really are mostly the same but, depending on what you're starting with, you can still get bit!


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## Cantdog (Aug 20, 2010)

andrethegiant70 said:


> This is mostly true, but there are a few differences in the cases of some of these models... for instance, you can't make a high top 272 out of an old 61 as the case isn't drilled out for the filter base mounts. If I recall correctly, there may also be some case casting differences in the area of the ignition. I've heard that a newer, single ignition setup won't necessarily bolt onto a case made to take a two piece ignition... something about clearance under the single-piece ignition. I haven't run into this one myself, though, so it's just heresay.
> 
> These cases really are mostly the same but, depending on what you're starting with, you can still get bit!



Yes that's true I was over generalizing. There are some variations in these saw and yrs. But I don't think the ign is a problem but you do have to change the flywheel as well to use the one piece as they are different. I will check on that though when I get back to the shop I have a 670 with a one piece and an old coarse thread 61 case all apart so easy enough to check. Sometimes you have to change more than the part you want to change in order to make things work out together.


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## fast5 (Aug 20, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> Cutting in steep terrain, when you can't access the tree from the side you prefer.


Yeah, we have pretty steep ground here in western washington, the half wrap worked pretty well 90% of the time but the other 10% was rotten without it (and probably unsafe) when you are trying to fall in a undesired position on steep ground.


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## fast5 (Aug 20, 2010)

andrethegiant70 said:


> This is mostly true, but there are a few differences in the cases of some of these models... for instance, you can't make a high top 272 out of an old 61 as the case isn't drilled out for the filter base mounts. If I recall correctly, there may also be some case casting differences in the area of the ignition. I've heard that a newer, single ignition setup won't necessarily bolt onto a case made to take a two piece ignition... something about clearance under the single-piece ignition. I haven't run into this one myself, though, so it's just heresay.
> 
> These cases really are mostly the same but, depending on what you're starting with, you can still get bit!


I hope I don't get bit! We just ordered a 272 cylinder and piston for a newer model 61 from baileys.


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## SawTroll (Aug 20, 2010)

fast5 said:


> Yeah, we have pretty steep ground here in western washington, the half wrap worked pretty well 90% of the time but the other 10% was rotten without it (and probably unsafe) when you are trying to fall in a undesired position on steep ground.



I don't really see any problem with cutting with the top side of the bar, and do it often - that actually defeats the need for a full wrap.....


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## fast5 (Aug 20, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> I don't really see any problem with cutting with the top side of the bar, and do it often - that actually defeats the need for a full wrap.....



Good point, very valid. I have a half wrap that gets more use than the 268-W XP. Do you have any advice for a stihl 056 mag 2 cylinder and piston? mine is no good.


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## Saw-dog (Aug 22, 2018)

Can you run a 28in bar on a 268 xp or non-xp??


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## Cliff R (Aug 22, 2018)

Yes, but I would use skip-tooth. A 268XP in good shape is best suited with a 20" bar on it in hardwoods, but will run 24" without too much trouble. I have a 30" skip tooth set-up here I've ran on mine a few times, but typically keep that bar on the 480CD instead.

Remarkably the 268XP does pretty good with it, just don't get in a big hurry.......Cliff


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## Cantdog (Aug 22, 2018)

Saw-dog said:


> Can you run a 28in bar on a 268 xp or non-xp??



Cliff's right........but I would add that I wouldn't run a 28" on the non-XP 268 even with a skip chain...good saw top end but just lacks the power for this job. I have 272s but am still a real proponent of the 268XP cyl.....and with a little porting will tear up a stock 272XP......the transfers in the Mahle cyl are simply much larger than the old 266XP or the 272xp......the late 670 Jonsered was the same.....if you examine the clys on the outside you'll find the transfer bulge is milled to allow the flywheel to have clearance.....the 266xp and the 272xp don't have this problem......even though 2 mm smaller bore than the 272 the 268XP is a more high performance cyl in design....I guess in the end Husky decided rather than push the envelope of performance and relied on the old adage.......there's no replacement for displacement. The 61/268 in my sig has been an absolute bear...and there's a lot left on that table...I went for torque...and still picked up another 1000 rpm over the stock 268xp spec while 4 stroking.......it dials in at 13,800 perfect.......I may go back for the left overs at some point......this saw could easily tune to 15,000 with just a bit more work....damn good family of saws to work with!!! Solid units!!!


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## sjames (Aug 22, 2018)

Cantdog said:


> Cliff's right........but I would add that I wouldn't run a 28" on the non-XP 268 even with a skip chain...good saw top end but just lacks the power for this job. I have 272s but am still a real proponent of the 268XP cyl.....and with a little porting will tear up a stock 272XP......the transfers in the Mahle cyl are simply much larger than the old 266XP or the 272xp......the late 670 Jonsered was the same.....if you examine the clys on the outside you'll find the transfer bulge is milled to allow the flywheel to have clearance.....the 266xp and the 272xp don't have this problem......even though 2 mm smaller bore than the 272 the 268XP is a more high performance cyl in design....I guess in the end Husky decided rather than push the envelope of performance and relied on the old adage.......there's no replacement for displacement. The 61/268 in my sig has been an absolute bear...and there's a lot left on that table...I went for torque...and still picked up another 1000 rpm over the stock 268xp spec while 4 stroking.......it dials in at 13,800 perfect.......I may go back for the left overs at some point......this saw could easily tune to 15,000 with just a bit more work....damn good family of saws to work with!!! Solid units!!!


Got me thinking now. I have a couple 268xp's and I love them. So they could be even better? [emoji848]

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## Cantdog (Aug 22, 2018)

sjames said:


> Got me thinking now. I have a couple 268xp's and I love them. So they could be even better? [emoji848]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


Definatly.........


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## Cliff R (Aug 23, 2018)

Cantdog said:


> The 61/268 in my sig has been an absolute bear...and there's a lot left on that table...I went for torque...and still picked up another 1000 rpm over the stock 268xp spec while 4 stroking.......it dials in at 13,800 perfect.......



The 268 XP "Special" I have here is a strong runner. I've ran it side by side with a friend of mines 272XP and you can't tell any difference, matter of fact I think mines a tad stronger. I put a tach on it once after tuning it and it "four strokes" nicely at 13,700rpms and is stone stock everyplace.......Cliff


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## Cantdog (Aug 23, 2018)

Cliff R said:


> The 268 XP "Special" I have here is a strong runner. I've ran it side by side with a friend of mines 272XP and you can't tell any difference, matter of fact I think mines a tad stronger. I put a tach on it once after tuning it and it "four strokes" nicely at 13,700rpms and is stone stock everyplace.......Cliff



I don't doubt that Cliff......the closed port 268XP saws were real strong out of the box....272 are too but the engineering is different. The 268 is just a more highly refined intake system ...as in porting. The 272 has transfer ports more like the old 266xp......as I said earlier the later 670 Super II/Champ and the 268 XP cyls are identical except for the impulse/intake method. Both real factory screamers.....and there's much more to get with a little work which makes them about 30-40% more powerful. I ported mine for torque so didn't pick up a ton of RPM and then I reduced the squish to 0.020", and man...it looses very little rpm in the cut......I run a 20" B&C and it'll do a ton of work in a short time!!!!


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## Cliff R (Aug 24, 2018)

I have no want or need to port mine or to reduce "squish" distance. It's already a huge PITA to start (no compression release) as it has over 170psi cranking pressure. Had the muffler off once, P/C is mint condition. I haven't used the saw much in the past few years, bought an Echo CS-600P and CS-590 and beating them to death instead. The Echo's are better suited to the type of work I do here, cutting up tops left over from logging operations, although I've got scores of HUGE dead Ash trees to deal with this year. I was going to leave the Ash trees as they are pretty much standing firewood, but big limbs are starting to fall out of them and I don't want to be walking with my 3 year old grand daughter and the dogs and have one come down on us. Just the other day we were building a bridge across a creek to access the other side for firewood and the next morning when we returned to finish the job there was a HUGE Ash limb laying right across the bridge we'd been working on. That did it for me, took down a dozen Ash yesterday and going after the rest of them this weekend.

Anyhow, I'd add here that my 268XP is better suited for big work, as it is happiest with a 20" bar completely buried in hardwood. It has a someplace "narrow" power curve, absolutely LOVES to run at really high RPM's and you have to keep it up there as the power (torque) curve is concentrated in the upper mid-range and top end. It doesn't "grunt" all that well and not happy when the RPM's fall out of where it makes it's best power. Not trying to make a negative comment about it, but it's a "race horse" and loves to run, not really happy doing anything else........Cliff


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## Cantdog (Aug 24, 2018)

Yes they do like to run!! As I said most of the work I did when I built mine was an effort to increase torque and spread it out in all rpm rather than to gain a lot of rpm at the very top end. Mine starts pretty easy....3-4 pulls cold so it doesn't bother me to much. I am used to starting my older Jonsereds like the 80 which is bone stock and carries 238 lbs of compression.....so my 61/268xp at around 200 is not a problem. I've got about 5 yrs on this saw since I built it.....runs the same as it ever did but I think before winter it'll be time to put a new kit in the carb......been acting a tad funny the last few times I warmed it up in good shape.


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