# Replacement Engine For Older Huskee 22 Ton Log Splitter



## Trout 2003 (Feb 26, 2017)

Hello everyone. I've done a bunch of searches not only here but also general google searches trying to get some certainty on this to no avail. I've got a Husky (Speeco) 22 ton log splitter with a Briggs 650 Series 190CC engine (Model 124T02-0121-B1) on it. After 7-8 years and many many hours of service it's time to replace it. I went for a search and of course that engine is not more. I'm fairly mechanically capable but I have never replaced an engine before and was hoping to find an exact match so I could pretty much 'plug and play' but am having a LOT of trouble understanding what I need to purchase. Does anyone know if the Briggs 675 series would be a match for the shaft and bolt pattern? If not is anyone familiar with this swap and what I should be looking for. What a disappointment this was today when I tried to get it going. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.


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## hanniedog (Feb 26, 2017)

Try Small Engine Warehouse out of Indiana. They have a large selection to choose from.


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## rarefish383 (Feb 26, 2017)

I put a Harbor Freight Predator on my old splitter. I was completely amazed at how well that engine ran. If I ever need another small engine, that's what I'm going to, Joe.


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## moondoggie (Feb 26, 2017)

Trout 2003 said:


> Hello everyone. I've done a bunch of searches not only here but also general google searches trying to get some certainty on this to no avail. I've got a Husky (Speeco) 22 ton log splitter with a Briggs 650 Series 190CC engine (Model 124T02-0121-B1) on it. After 7-8 years and many many hours of service it's time to replace it. I went for a search and of course that engine is not more. I'm fairly mechanically capable but I have never replaced an engine before and was hoping to find an exact match so I could pretty much 'plug and play' but am having a LOT of trouble understanding what I need to purchase. Does anyone know if the Briggs 675 series would be a match for the shaft and bolt pattern? If not is anyone familiar with this swap and what I should be looking for. What a disappointment this was today when I tried to get it going. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.


When my 30 year old Briggs engine needed replacing I spent about an hour on the phone with Briggs and some other company. They finally were able to cross reference me to a complete match that bolted up to my old splitter and pump.


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## aokpops (Feb 26, 2017)

Harbor freight predator engine . 99 dollars an done , Had mine 5 years and has ran great put a coil on last year


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## WoodTick007 (Feb 27, 2017)

Briggs and Stratton is an absolute and total disgrace of a company. . . they have sold over priced substandard crap engines along with Tecumseh for way too long.
Buy anything from Harbor Freight. . .at least they sell excellent quality engines at reasonable prices...


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## avason (Feb 27, 2017)

As many mentioned, Predator engine. You will not be disappointed. If not the first pull...it always starts on the second pull. I picked mine up on Craig's for a buck fitty with a receipt that showed a two year warranty purchased with it. I think a lot of people were sceptacle when they started hitting the market but if you do searches I think you'll find more positives than negatives. Good Luck!


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## FishNJ (Feb 27, 2017)

Can't go wrong with the predator. Also search craigslist for pressure washers needing a pump. I scored a 13hp Honda GX for $125 that way. Put it on my Huskee with a bigger 16gpm pump. Cycle time is better. 

If it's the vertical engine, don't be afraid to try and rearrange everything to a horizontal. 


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## mohick (Feb 27, 2017)

Harbor freight! Never look back perfect match great engine. why bother with all the b s of calling b/s company ?? funny how so many people mind screw everything to death!!!!!!


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## moondoggie (Feb 27, 2017)

mohick said:


> Harbor freight! Never look back perfect match great engine. why bother with all the b s of calling b/s company ?? funny how so many people mind screw everything to death!!!!!!


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## Trout 2003 (Feb 27, 2017)

Thanks the feedback everyone. The last post was what I needed for a perfect match although did I not read somewhere that I need to adjust the shaft to fit the pump???? Something about a 'lovejoy' connector which I have no clue what that is but will figure it out. I take it the Harbor Freight Predator is a particular engine or is it a series of engines with the predator name that. Will I still need to match up a size with a certain model of predator? I have a Harbor about 5 minutes from my house so I'll have to swing by and see if they have it in stock. Thanks for being patient with me in what I feel may be stupid questions. Ive been heating my home with wood for about 10 years now but this is the first major issue I've had with any equipment so I'm feeling really 'green'.


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## FishNJ (Feb 27, 2017)

Predator is the engine product line at HF. Assuming you have a 6.5hp BS horizontal the predator 6.5hp should be a direct swap. If you have the vertical, you'll have to see if it's a match. HF has a 6.5hp 9hp and 13hp horizontal predator motors and I think a 5.5 hp vertical?

Verify shaft diameter shaft length keyway size and bolt flange pattern. They are all pretty standard at that size unless you start trying to use a generator motor for a splitter or something creative. 


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 27, 2017)

this is the Lovejoy coupler it connects the engine to the pump. 

Most Farm stores have them in stock if the new 3/4" Predator engine shaft is larger than the BS shaft. they are relativity inexpensive to buy. 

As far as engine size, you will want to get the Predator 6.5hp model. I just got a flyer in the mail that said my Harbor Freight is having a parking lot sale on March 10th and that engine will be on sale for $99, normally it runs around $119.


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## reddogrunner (Feb 27, 2017)

I just updated my 20ton MTD from a 5hp Briggs to the 6.5hp Horizontal Predator from Harbor Freight. Took about 2 hours to mod the mounting holes and trimming the shaft a little shorter. For 119 and a few beers, I was back in business and starting on the 1st or 2nd pull all weekend. Loving the new motor.


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## GVS (Feb 27, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> Briggs and Stratton is an absolute and total disgrace of a company. . . they have sold over priced substandard crap engines along with Tecumseh for way too long.
> Buy anything from Harbor Freight. . .at least they sell excellent quality engines at reasonable prices...




B&S-Overpriced ,sure, lets face it ,costs much more to make anything in the U.S. than in China.Sub standard,hardly.Of the dozen B&S I've owned I had 2 failures and they both had many hours before they crapped out.Every one was an easy starter too.Sooner or later they all wear out.Same with Tecumseh-20 years before it died.I have one Chonda,no real complaints but it's not as good a starter as any of the B&S's.Course I've had great luck with Kohler and Wisconsin also.You've got to change the oil in any of them to help them last and a lot of people don't know enough to do it or just don't bother.


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## Trout 2003 (Feb 27, 2017)

Yes I have to agree that my Briggs served it purpose and served it well. I split and stack 14 cords annually not to mention the other couple of cords I do for the elderly neighbor as a favor. That's a lot of hours for that little residential engine. If I could buy the exact engine again I probably would but since they discontinued it they'll probably lose my business. Not out of spite but out of options.

So here is my last stupid question for today. How do I know if my engine is a vertical or horizontal shaft? Just looking at it I think it's obvious that the shaft is a vertical shaft but I'm not square on the difference. I'll take a few pics in a bit.


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## FishNJ (Feb 27, 2017)

If the pump is under the motor it's vertical 
If the pump is to the side of the motor it's horizontal 

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## Trout 2003 (Feb 27, 2017)

Ahhh too easy
It's vertical.


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## FishNJ (Feb 27, 2017)

Looks like the HF predator vertical is 5.5hp should just be enough for the 11gpm 2stage pump on the huskee Need to check the shafts and mounting pattern against your BS to see if it will match up or can be tweaked to work 

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## Streblerm (Feb 28, 2017)

I am a big fan of Harbor Freight's predator engines but just to make your decision harder, these engines look exactly like what I have on my speeco splitter. 

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...4.8&numR=4&catentryId=200119224&cr=3.8&numR=5


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## WoodTick007 (Feb 28, 2017)

The 6.5 horsepower rating on the Predator motor from Harbor Freight under rated. The Predator 6.5 is easily making 7-7.5 horsepower . Harbor Freight and the Chinese are good honest people. They don't falsely inflate the horsepower ratings of their engines like Briggs and Stratton and Tecumseh does/did to rip off the American Consumer. 
You ever heard the old phrase "In God We Trust"? Well substitute "China" and "Harbor Freight" for "God".
Buy China with pride! ! ! Quiet.... smooth running.... Fuel efficient.....ball bearings....actual steel internal parts. . . true quality and craftsmanship.


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 3, 2017)

That's the first time I've ever heard anyone praise a China product lol. Picking my engine up today and doing the swap Sunday afternoon. I'll report back.


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## reddogrunner (Mar 3, 2017)

I have had several Briggs motors and they generally are pretty solid. For the amount that I use this splitter and the cost-benefit analysis, it just does not make sense. Besides, the parts are from China and I believe it is assembled somewhere in the US. Don't hold me to that. That's just what the dude from HF said.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 3, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> Briggs and Stratton is an absolute and total disgrace of a company. . . they have sold over priced substandard crap engines along with Tecumseh for way too long.
> Buy anything from Harbor Freight. . .at least they sell excellent quality engines at reasonable prices...



Briggs parts for sure are $$. If you built a 5hp engine from parts it'd probably cost $2000.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 3, 2017)

Trout 2003 said:


> Yes I have to agree that my Briggs served it purpose and served it well. I split and stack 14 cords annually not to mention the other couple of cords I do for the elderly neighbor as a favor. That's a lot of hours for that little residential engine. If I could buy the exact engine again I probably would but since they discontinued it they'll probably lose my business. Not out of spite but out of options.
> 
> So here is my last stupid question for today. How do I know if my engine is a vertical or horizontal shaft? Just looking at it I think it's obvious that the shaft is a vertical shaft but I'm not square on the difference. I'll take a few pics in a bit.



That's actually not very good. 14 cords a year, 8 years, that's only maybe 200-250hrs. Should easily get 3-4x that out of a Briggs.


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## FishNJ (Mar 3, 2017)

Gxparts.com for all the aftermarket Honda parts you will need. Cheap. 

I got the same short life out of the Bs vertical on my huskee too. Same vintage. They just sucked. 


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## WoodTick007 (Mar 3, 2017)

ValleyFirewood said:


> That's actually not very good. 14 cords a year, 8 years, that's only maybe 200-250hrs. Should easily get 3-4x that out of a Briggs.


briggs is ecstatic if you get 200 hours adding 1 oz of oil every hour(considered "normal" consumption). tecumseh L-heads used on 2-stage snowblowers will spit a rod in the first season. . . lmao


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## WoodTick007 (Mar 3, 2017)

FishNJ said:


> Gxparts.com for all the aftermarket Honda parts you will need. Cheap.
> 
> I got the same short life out of the Bs vertical on my huskee too. Same vintage. They just sucked.
> 
> ...


Thank You Mr Fish !


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 3, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> briggs is ecstatic if you get 200 hours adding 1 oz of oil every hour(considered "normal" consumption). tecumseh L-heads used on 2-stage snowblowers will spit a rod in the first season. . . lmao



Nah. We do small engine repairs and generally only see engine issues from neglect or over 1000 hrs. I've seen some Briggs engines on ZTRs with over 3000hrs


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## reddogrunner (Mar 3, 2017)

The Big Block Briggs are a different motor. Hand built. Better quality there.


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## greenskeeper (Mar 3, 2017)

ValleyFirewood said:


> That's actually not very good. 14 cords a year, 8 years, that's only maybe 200-250hrs. Should easily get 3-4x that out of a Briggs.



Yeah my huskee circa 2000 is still going with the original B/S engine. If I had to guess it has over 3000 hours on it. Basic maintenance running rotella 5w-40 in it.

Once the B/S finally dies it's getting a single cylinder diesel


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## WoodTick007 (Mar 3, 2017)

The larger vanguard engines are made by another company like Mitsubishi or Daihatsu.
With Briggs rating oil consumption at 1oz per hour min normal consumption it is very easy to run low on oil. Once they run low they are D O N E. . . rod metal transfer to the crankshaft eats away one stroke at a time. . cylinder scoring takes a little more effort, but not much. . . next thing you know it'S all over. . . LOL 
"Buy Junk Get Junk" . . .


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## WoodTick007 (Mar 3, 2017)

greenskeeper said:


> Yeah my huskee circa 2000 is still going with the original B/S engine. If I had to guess it has over 3000 hours on it. Basic maintenance running rotella 5w-40 in it.


I am sorry, but I have to call Bullspit on 3000 hours on an off the shelf splash lubricated Briggs & Stratton aluminum engine B&S pos engine. They are rated for 100-200 running hours. Many people are doing well if they get 3000 hours out of a commercial Kawasaki full pressure oiling and oil filter with super duty air filtration. . . perhaps could you be off by 2300-2500 hours?
I had an 11hp "cast iron" briggs on my first splitter with an hour meter. It did not make 1000 hours with regular oil changes. . . started smoking like a chimney. . . briggs wanted $200-$300 for rebuild parts. . .lol


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 3, 2017)

reddogrunner said:


> The Big Block Briggs are a different motor. Hand built. Better quality there.



And pressure lube, but still, 200ish hrs on any engine isn't good.
I have an 11hp Briggs on my splitter, I don't use it much still getting a processor, but I put well over 400hrs in the first year


reddogrunner said:


> The Big Block Briggs are a different motor. Hand built. Better quality there.


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## GVS (Mar 4, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> briggs is ecstatic if you get 200 hours adding 1 oz of oil every hour(considered "normal" consumption). tecumseh L-heads used on 2-stage snowblowers will spit a rod in the first season. . . lmao


Shot at 200 hrs.Are you kidding?I have one on a riding mower thats coming up on 240 hrs.The only time I had to add oil was during the first 25 hr. breakin period.About 2 oz!
As to Tecumseh on snowblowers throwing a rod in the first season--pure B S and that ain't Briggs and Stratton!


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## greenskeeper (Mar 4, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> I am sorry, but I have to call Bullspit on 3000 hours on an off the shelf splash lubricated Briggs & Stratton aluminum engine B&S pos engine. They are rated for 100-200 running hours. Many people are doing well if they get 3000 hours out of a commercial Kawasaki full pressure oiling and oil filter with super duty air filtration. . . perhaps could you be off by 2300-2500 hours?
> I had an 11hp "cast iron" briggs on my first splitter with an hour meter. It did not make 1000 hours with regular oil changes. . . started smoking like a chimney. . . briggs wanted $200-$300 for rebuild parts. . .lol



"If I had to guess" is what I stated. The B/S engine on my splitter that is 16+ years old is still going and uses no oil. Between my own wood and lending it out to friends and family I'd say it does at least 100 cords per year. How long does it take to split a cord? An hour? So 1600 hours? There is no hour meter so we'll never know. 

FWIW I worked at a golf course with an ancient triplex mower. Single cylinder (forget the brand) splash lubricated engine. Rolled the hour meter over.....10,000 hours!


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## GVS (Mar 4, 2017)

greenskeeper said:


> "If I had to guess" is what I stated. The B/S engine on my splitter that is 16+ years old is still going and uses no oil. Between my own wood and lending it out to friends and family I'd say it does at least 100 cords per year. How long does it take to split a cord? An hour? So 1600 hours? There is no hour meter so we'll never know.
> 
> FWIW I worked at a golf course with an ancient triplex mower. Single cylinder (forget the brand) splash lubricated engine. Rolled the hour meter over.....10,000 hours!


Very possibly a Wisconsin.One tough old engine!Even with poor care they still carried on.The were used on many hay balers and combines ,2 and V4 cylinder engines.The balers really had it rough.With those it was load-unload-load-unload all day and into the night.You had to keep the cooling fan and head/block fins opened up or they'd get hot.They kept running but if shutdown they'd be hard starting until cooled down.


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 4, 2017)

God this isn't going well. I bought two engines today and neither worked from Harbor. The first one I didn't look over close enough and it ended up being a dang lawn mower engine with the tension throttle and the other I bought on advise and it ended up being a lever throttle but a horizontal shaft which does the work for me lol. I shoulda looked closer both times. Guess I got too excited being a rookie at this. I looked at their site and don't see many vertical 6.5 HP. I'll have to look closer and slow the heck down this time. More to follow.


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## FishNJ (Mar 4, 2017)

I think the Throttle levers for the Honda vertical gxv160 or gxv200 same as the predator vertical are under $10 on eBay 

Need a pump mounting collar for the horizontal engine, and maybe a little redo of the hoses, but that is the way I went rather than futzing with the vertical. 


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## Streblerm (Mar 4, 2017)

Trout 2003 said:


> God this isn't going well. I bought two engines today and neither worked from Harbor. The first one I didn't look over close enough and it ended up being a dang lawn mower engine with the tension throttle and the other I bought on advise and it ended up being a lever throttle but a horizontal shaft which does the work for me lol. I shoulda looked closer both times. Guess I got too excited being a rookie at this. I looked at their site and don't see many vertical 6.5 HP. I'll have to look closer and slow the heck down this time. More to follow.



The vertical shaft engine should work just fine. If I'm not mistaken the throttle and safety stop are two different things. The safety stop can be defeated. It is a band around the flywheel that loosens when you pull the lever.


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 4, 2017)

Ugh you may be right. I'll have to go back down there tomorrow and really really look over the throttle. Not sure how to bypass the safety stop. I didnt see a throttle lever that you could turn up and down but I might have missed it.


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 4, 2017)




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## Trout 2003 (Mar 4, 2017)

That's the motor I purchased early that I could figure out the throttle on.


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## Streblerm (Mar 5, 2017)

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/69000-69999/Q69731.pdf

This quick start guide shows the difference between the safety stop and the throttle. This engine was designed to work on a lawnmower with a "presence lever" safety stop and a remote throttle. The safety stop can be removed or just wired open. The throttle was made to work with a cable operated remote that probably uses friction to hold throttle position. I think somebody mentioned a throttle option available for Honda engines that would work or you could adapt a remote mower throttle control. 

Not quite a direct bolt on, but for the price I don't think you can beat these engines.


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## WoodTick007 (Mar 5, 2017)

You can order all kinds of LiFan engines at Home Depot website. They deliver them to the store and you can pick them up. See if they have something that fits your needs


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 5, 2017)

I've really looked


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 5, 2017)

I've really looked things over and I'm going to just keep the motor that you recommended, the 6.5 predator horizontal shaft and just convert this thing to a horizontal operating splitter. It's less of a pain in the arse to just go through this and get it done than it is to go through the hassle of altering the 5.5 vertical to work. That engine is far from perfect even though it's vertical. The throttle in tight on the bean side of the splitter which would be really annoying and if I'm gonna do this I may as well not settle 'easy'. I've got access to a misc metal shop that I'll have bend me up a few 1/4" steel plates to bolt to my existing motor mount. I'll drill them out to accept the new motor and cover the giant hole that is there now for the old vertical motor. I'll drill the 2" hole for the pump and have another bend above that to protect the pump from falling peices of wood. Rework the hoses and that's that. Of course this is taking WAAAAY longer than I'd hoped it would and I've lose a ton of valuable time. Annoying. Engines should last forever and ever.

Question. When I disconnect the pump to move it I'm goin to introduce air into the system. When I hook up all the hoses on the new config how do you handle the air situation or does it just purge itself. I'll fill the new hoses with hydraulic oil before final hookups but should I be concerned with the little amount of air left behind? My hydraulic fluid tank does have a bleeder hole on the cap.


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 5, 2017)

Also, I figured while I'm here I'd comment on the Briggs as I see some are surprised that it's failed after hundreds of hours. It wasn't the maintenance which is pretty simple like engine oil ECT. The damn thing vibrated itself to peices. First the throttle fell apart from vibration and then the muffler bolts vibrated out stripping the threads in the process so I drilled and tapped new bolts and installed locktite there. Next the pop rivets that held the cover over the pull string vibrated loose and that came flying off. That I couldnt figure out really as the rivet holes were way larger now as the pops that were there widened the holes like a river flowing down a canyon. Finally the pull string assembly just broke out one day. Not the pull string its self but the whole assembly. So to start it I just wrapped rope around the wheel and gave her a pull. There were also a bunch of other things jiggling around that I have no clue what they do. The thing just fell apart and I did the best I could with the limited knowledge I have to keep it together. I'm not an engine guy. I'm a home guy that heats his place with wood lol. I learn as I go here. The thing literally fell apart. I'm not complaining either.


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## mohick (Mar 6, 2017)

Don't bother trying to fill the hoses , that would be a mess, hoses are changed on equipment all the time no harm done from empty hose, might take a couple cycles to get it worked out but far better than screwing around trying to fill a hose. Quit mind screwing this thing to death and just get it done !!!!!!!!


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 6, 2017)

Hahahaha..... I will


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## sbhooper (Mar 6, 2017)

Let us know how it turns out. I also have a 22 to Huskee splitter that may soon need an upgrade.


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## FishNJ (Mar 6, 2017)

Here is my gx340 with the 16gpm pump. 
Move it forward for a little more room by the lever and weight on the front leg. 








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## mijdirtyjeep (Mar 6, 2017)

FishNJ said:


> Here is my gx340 with the 16gpm pump.
> Move it forward for a little more room by the lever and weight on the front leg.



This would be the route I would go if my motor took a dump on my hydraulic splitter that I never use because it is slow*. *I would get the 8hp or 13hp Predator along with a 13gpm or 16gpm pump and speed that baby up a little!!


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## FishNJ (Mar 6, 2017)

Exactly the decisions I took. Cycles quicker now around 8 sec instead of 12 sec. doesn't seem like a lot but it was mentally satisfying 


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## GVS (Mar 6, 2017)

FishNJ said:


> Exactly the decisions I took. Cycles quicker now around 8 sec instead of 12 sec. doesn't seem like a lot but it was mentally satisfying
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


In a 6 hr. day of splitting total that 4 sec. for that time and it will be more than mentally satisfying!


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## reddogrunner (Mar 6, 2017)

Will the 212cc (6.5hp) motor turn that bigger pump? If/when mine craps the bed I may try that.


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## FishNJ (Mar 6, 2017)

It'll be close I think. 
I turned up the bypass with the larger engine to keep it in high speed as long as possible


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 6, 2017)

I'm just gonna keep the pump for now. Honestly, for safety reasons, I'm not sure I really trust myself with a faster cycle. When I get into the zone I have definitely pinched a glove tip or two over the years. Never a finger though thank god I dont split enough wood to really worry about it anyhow.


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 6, 2017)

NJ fish. Where'd you get the pump mount collar? I've got a better idea for this while I wait for my bent steel plates.


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## FishNJ (Mar 6, 2017)

Northern tool or eBay for the 11gpm and 6.5hp should be about $30
Share the idea so we can either steal shamelessly or save you from yourself 


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 7, 2017)

Having some trouble finding the correct LoveJoy for the new motor to match the old one on the pump shaft.




This is the existing pump side of the Lovejoy




That's the specs on the new engine.

I've been able to find the L-075 in 3/4" but the keyway on the shaft is causing me an issue.

I'm going to run up to tractor supply and talk to the guys there and see if they can help and if I can order one up or if it's easy enough to change them both out even thought the engine shaft and pump shaft are different diameters. I have no idea if that matters but I wouldn't think so. Figured I'd post this here to see if any of you knew better.......


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## FishNJ (Mar 7, 2017)

http://catalog.lovejoy-inc.com/item...coupling-hubs-w-keyway-imperial/68514410690-2

I think
L075
3/4 bore
3/16 keyway

Should be a standard size. 


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## reddogrunner (Mar 7, 2017)

Mine matched up no problems. What specifically is the problem with the keyway? too narrow, tall, wide?


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 7, 2017)

Nah I'm not sure there's a problem. I was just wondering how excited I need to be about the keyway before I spend $15.


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## reddogrunner (Mar 7, 2017)

Can't you take the old lovejoy off the motor? I used a gear puller to get mine off. I had to file down the set screw, as it was completely seized. To keep the lovejoy from creeping back to the motor side of the shaft I cut a piece of 3/4"ID pipe to length, tapped it on and reseated the lovejoy. Field fab work. Split a couple cord and no issues yet


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 7, 2017)

I did get the old Lovejoy off but that shaft was 7/8" and this new one is 3/4" so the old lovejoy is too large a diameter to fit the new shaft.


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## Ted Jenkins (Mar 7, 2017)

A few years ago I ordered from the surplus center an assortment of couplers . Not sure if they are Lovejoy brand, but the smallest is 5/8'' and the largest somewhere around 1 1/4, but you should be able to couple 1/4'' to 1 3/4''. So whatever combination you need is just a click away, Thanks


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 7, 2017)

Great thanks!


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## mijdirtyjeep (Mar 7, 2017)

They also make a bushing that goes into the 7/8" coupler to reduce it to 3/4".


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 7, 2017)

Any chance you could provide a link or photo? I'm searching but can't find that


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## mijdirtyjeep (Mar 7, 2017)

Trout 2003 said:


> Any chance you could provide a link or photo? I'm searching but can't find that



http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-034-to-...k-Shaft-Sleeve-adapter-Predator-/131748863606

Should be able to find them cheaper though..


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## FishNJ (Mar 7, 2017)

If you do that bushing you have to notch for the key. Also the standard 3/16 key will be too short to safely catch on the coupling. 
You could fart around getting the bushing and trying to find a 3/16 x 1/4 key or just get the correct coupling. 

Edit. The updated eBay link looks good. The previous fastenal link was what I was talking about. I think the correct coupling is still cheaper than the eBay bushing 


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 7, 2017)

Thanks guys! I'm good to go. I drove to my local farm bureau store and had a good long chat with the fine gentleman at the back desk and he sorted me out. Ive got everything I need. Should have the new steel motor mount Thursday or Friday and half a case of beer later Ill be splitting some wood haha.


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## mohick (Mar 8, 2017)

What a cluster F%^k this turned into!!!!!!!!


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 9, 2017)

Not at all lol. At least not from my standpoint. I'm asking a lot of question so I get this correct the first time....on something I have never done before. I'm being thorough and it's going to come out great because of it. Not sure what your life is like but 95% of America's population DOES NOT replace (or worse yet convert) engines haha. This is been an extremely helpful thread for me and others like me will find this thread on google searches and it will help them too. More info the better!


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## tnflatbed (Mar 9, 2017)

Well all the talk of couplers and wouldn't you know mine just took a dump on my splitter earlier in the day. It was 68 F here today sun shining bright and I thought it would be a good day to get in some splitting, and I did about a wheelbarrow load. and the lovejoy lost its teeth with the ram fully extended and its suppose to start raining tonight.


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## WoodTick007 (Mar 10, 2017)

Tractor Supply should.have a coupler for your new.engine. make sure you take.the old one with you as.there are.various outside diameters of couplers. I think the engine shaft is 3/4 inch but check the spec page for diameter and keyway dimension. 
You will be extremely pleased with your engine once your project is completed. They run quiet and smooth and start on the 3rd pull in -15 degree weather and when your done splitting you will not stink like some shi tty old briggs/tecumseh and they make tons of torque and the governor functions superbly...and you can make cheap changes to the carb for a few.dollars.that will increase power torque rpms. All in all you will be dumb founded that u ever.used a.POS from briggs / tecumseh.


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## mohick (Mar 10, 2017)

Lovejoys area 2 minute change, and rain aint gona hurt your cylinder!! they don't rust or anything!!!!!


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## Jakers (Mar 10, 2017)

mohick said:


> Lovejoys area 2 minute change, and rain aint gona hurt your cylinder!! they don't rust or anything!!!!!


That depends on the rod. Some are not chromed shafts.... if it's a homemade jobby, who knows what the rod is. Safe to say if it's nice and mirror like finish, it's chromed


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## mohick (Mar 11, 2017)

show me somebody who's cyl is a "homemade jobby" that would be great to be able to build your own cyl's.


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## sbhooper (Mar 11, 2017)

Well, this thread convinced me. I was near a Harbor Freight a couple days ago and grabbed a new motor. I should have it up and running shortly.


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## Jakers (Mar 11, 2017)

mohick said:


> show me somebody who's cyl is a "homemade jobby" that would be great to be able to build your own cyl's.


I was referring to the whole splitter as homemade. It is possible to make your own hydraulic cylinders though. All ya need is a machine shop. Plenty of guys on here have the necessary tools in their home shops. Usually it's not cost effective to build over buying pre-made because of mass production. I have owned a dozen different hydraulic cylinders without chrome shafts in them. Hydraulic shops in the old days used to stock the shaft sizes in regular iron and make what was needed right in house. It works, is cheaper, and faster than sending something out to be chrome plated and waiting 2 months to get the impliment back in service


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## WoodTick007 (Mar 11, 2017)

sbhooper said:


> Well, this thread convinced me. I was near a Harbor Freight a couple days ago and grabbed a new motor. I should have it up and running shortly.


They are cheep right now.....$94


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## sbhooper (Mar 14, 2017)

I paid $119 for the 173cc and I purchased the 15-month, no questions asked warranty for $30. A great deal. I did not have the option of waiting for the sale.

I got it screwed on this morning and everything works fine. I need to figure out something a little better for the throttle control, though. I am just wiring it open for now. 

Thanks to everyone who has posted on this and gave me the idea for the motor.


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 14, 2017)

Quick question. Does anyone else have the 11gpm Haldex pump on their splitter? Does the staft have a 'key' in the key way or just a slot????? While assembling the lovejoys I noticed there was no key on the shaft of the pump and I'm wondering if I lost it or it was never there. I tightened the Allen screws on the Lovejoy and it's tight but I'm just curious.


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## FishNJ (Mar 14, 2017)

should have a key in the keyway. should be a standard 1/8" key available at your local hardware store.
Edit: corrected key size for pump shaft.


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 14, 2017)

Ya I definitely do not have the little key in this photo. My hunch is that I won't walk into my local ace hardware and find that peice. I'll try though


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## WoodTick007 (Mar 14, 2017)

Sure you will. . .ACE or.ACO will.have.those. if not any fastener show.will have.them.


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 14, 2017)

Thanks Woodtick. I need to drive that way for some hydraulic hose tomorrow so I'll stop in and ask. Appreciate the feedback.


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## FishNJ (Mar 14, 2017)

It may not be cut to length. They will have key stock that you cut to length and clean up edges with a file


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 14, 2017)

No prob. I've cut the tools for that


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## WoodTick007 (Mar 14, 2017)

When your at the hardware store they'll have those little drawers with all different types of set screws and dowel pins and you name it Clips they'll be in there. If they only have 3/16 Square stock you can you can grind it on your grinder into a half moon. Best thing to do is hold them with a pair of vice grips and repeatedly dip it in water so you're not turning it blue and taking any type of hardening that might be into in it out. That keyway is not under horrible loads for example like a lawn mower key way. The load on that pump is constant load. What I'm saying is is there's not a shock load to be concerned with. I'm pretty excited for you as I think you'll be very happy with your motor... they're wonderful engines


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 14, 2017)

I measured it and its a 1/8" key. The predator is 3/16". I'll look for that. Thanks for try advice. I should have it all back together this weekend........Just in time to wait for this 20" of snow to melt here in northern PA. Boooooo!


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## FishNJ (Mar 14, 2017)

You're right. My bad. Good looking out. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## GVS (Mar 15, 2017)

Trout 2003 said:


> Quick question. Does anyone else have the 11gpm Haldex pump on their splitter? Does the staft have a 'key' in the key way or just a slot????? While assembling the lovejoys I noticed there was no key on the shaft of the pump and I'm wondering if I lost it or it was never there. I tightened the Allen screws on the Lovejoy and it's tight but I'm just curious.




Ask for a woodruff key,speicyfy size of course.


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## sbhooper (Mar 15, 2017)

I just put about two hours of non-stop splitting on my new Predator this morning. It seems to me like it has more torque, than the B&S did when it was new. Happy so far.


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 15, 2017)

As suggested Ace Hardware had the Woodruff Key. I wasn't sure of the length but at .40 I just bought every length they had haha. Good to go!

Good to hear about the engine. Looking forward to it.


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## sbhooper (Mar 18, 2017)

OK, on a side note, how large of a pump could a person put on the 22-ton, run by the Predator 173 cc? Is the 11 about all that would run well on tis setup? I just don't know much about that stuff, but it would be nice to speed up the cycle time a little.


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## FishNJ (Mar 18, 2017)

The 13gpm needs 6.5 hp. That would probably be pushing the 173cc motor.
Best is to go horizontal 8hp and 16gpm if you want to go bigger.
The reservoir tank isn't big enough to manage the heat of anything bigger 

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


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## WoodTick007 (Mar 18, 2017)

FishNJ said:


> The 13gpm needs 6.5 hp. That would probably be pushing the 173cc motor.
> Best is to go horizontal 8hp and 16gpm if you want to go bigger.
> The reservoir tank isn't big enough to manage the heat of anything bigger


You know Mr Fish. . . there are a lot of individuals who argue over the size of a hydraulic reservoir. . . personally I am not a person who disputes standard practices... I have approximately 40 gallons of oil in my backyard hillbilly built splitter. It definitely keeps the oil cooler. . . 40 gallons is not twice the gpm of the pump but much better than the 5-10gallon hydraulic reservoirs used on most lower end mass produced splitters.


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## sbhooper (Mar 19, 2017)

FishNJ said:


> The 13gpm needs 6.5 hp. That would probably be pushing the 173cc motor.
> Best is to go horizontal 8hp and 16gpm if you want to go bigger.
> The reservoir tank isn't big enough to manage the heat of anything bigger
> 
> Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk



Thanks for the info.


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## FishNJ (Mar 19, 2017)

I think the huskee is just under 5 gals. Far from double the flow rate. Personally I'd be happy with 1:1. 1/2 to 1/3 pump flow with the 11/13/16 gpm pumps. Mine gets hot in summer with the 16. 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## mohick (Mar 20, 2017)

If you can afford 40 gallons of hydraulic oil in a splitter why in the HE!! are you burning wood??, thats the biggest crock I ever heard of !!!!!!!!


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## GVS (Mar 20, 2017)

FishNJ said:


> I think the huskee is just under 5 gals. Far from double the flow rate. Personally I'd be happy with 1:1. 1/2 to 1/3 pump flow with the 11/13/16 gpm pumps. Mine gets hot in summer with the 16.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk




What do you consider "hot"?Mine gets too hot to hold my hand on the cylinder for more then 5 seconds or so but the temp. is only ~ 140* F.That's not too hot for hyd. oil!


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## mohick (Mar 20, 2017)

Tractors and other equip even with hydrostat drive don't even use 40 gal. Alot of cyl get so hot you cant even touch them that ain't even considered hot by a guage !!!


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## mohick (Mar 21, 2017)

Moderator!! WHy is woodtick not banned or warned?? That statement is worse than anything I said last week and was banned for 3 days if you don't do it you are not fair at all !!!!!!!!!!


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## sbhooper (Mar 21, 2017)

I think that I answered my question through some internet research. It looks to me like if you go up to a 13 gpm pump, the engine size needs to go up to at least 6.5 hp. I guess that I will stay at the 11gpm, as it does well anyway.


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## WoodTick007 (Mar 21, 2017)

sbhooper said:


> I think that I answered my question through some internet research. It looks to me like if you go up to a 13 gpm pump, the engine size needs to go up to at least 6.5 hp. I guess that I will stay at the 11gpm, as it does well anyway.


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## WoodTick007 (Mar 21, 2017)

You might be fine with a 13-gallon per minute pump or even a 16 gallon per minute pump. It all depends on your wood conditions and how you have your relief valve set on the second stage of your pump. If you were just splitting smaller logs say 20 inches and under maybe 24 inches that are clear meaning you don't have a lot of crutches or tree branches cutting across the grain he will probably be fine. If you use your splitter like I use mine to split wood that's 35-40 inches cross with all types of crotches and tree branches in the wood and you would need the full horsepower to drive the pump.


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## sbhooper (Mar 21, 2017)

I split quite a bit of big (up to 24-inch) elm and ash. I think that I will just stay with what I have until it quits! Then, maybe, I can reconsider.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 21, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> When your at the hardware store they'll have those little drawers with all different types of set screws and dowel pins and you name it Clips they'll be in there. If they only have 3/16 Square stock you can you can grind it on your grinder into a half moon. Best thing to do is hold them with a pair of vice grips and repeatedly dip it in water so you're not turning it blue and taking any type of hardening that might be into in it out. That keyway is not under horrible loads for example like a lawn mower key way. The load on that pump is constant load. What I'm saying is is there's not a shock load to be concerned with. I'm pretty excited for you as I think you'll be very happy with your motor... they're wonderful engines



normal keystock isn't hard. On mowers often they are really soft, it's the weak point so the whole works doesn't (usually) break apart if something solid gets hit.


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 23, 2017)

I literally cannot believe this. I put this whole damn predator engine together. Hours of work. I'm going to fire it up tonight and I pour gas into the engine and it just comes POURING out of the bottom of the engine everywhere. There is clearly something not connected there or a big Problem You wanna talk about PI$$ED off. This is what I get for going the cheep route on engines To unhook this all and take it back will be hours and the smell of gas is everywhere. Now.......This is officially a disaster!!


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## FishNJ (Mar 23, 2017)

Deep breath and take the 20 minutes to investigate before going postal. Its probably something simple like a disconnected fuel line. 
Worst case its four bolts, a Lovejoy, and a drive back to HF. 
In the end its worth it. 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## Trout 2003 (Mar 23, 2017)

Surprisingly I did not flip my lid haha. 3 hours later and the new engine is back on and connected. This one didn't leak fuel. I'll fire it up tomorrow after work and let it run for a break in period. Report back later.


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## FishNJ (Mar 24, 2017)

Lots of beer on this project lol

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## WoodTick007 (Mar 30, 2017)

Well Mr Trout? Did you get your splitter up and running with the new engine?
I hope your rewards exceeded your efforts. 
And BTW it is always good to start and run a new or used engine before installing it. That way you can avoid redoing things . One plus to removing and replacing repeated times is that every time you do it the process goes faster...


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## sbhooper (Mar 31, 2017)

Did you figure out why the original engine was leaking? 

Mine has about 7ish hours of splitting on it now and it is doing great.


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## forty (Jul 24, 2017)

i bought the preditor 173cc vertical engine for my huskee 22ton log splitter. as per the posts i seen here i wanted to to go horizantial but im not that good at messing with things. i had to put a coat hanger on the saftey stop to start it and a wire on the throttel to keep it running on full throttle, how can i rig this to get rid of the stop and some how work the throttle better so i can turn it off i just ran it and split until it ran out of gas??


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## forty (Jul 26, 2017)

Trout 2003 said:


> I literally cannot believe this. I put this whole damn predator engine together. Hours of work. I'm going to fire it up tonight and I pour gas into the engine and it just comes POURING out of the bottom of the engine everywhere. There is clearly something not connected there or a big Problem You wanna talk about PI$$ED off. This is what I get for going the cheep route on engines To unhook this all and take it back will be hours and the smell of gas is everywhere. Now.......This is officially a disaster!!


how did you bypass the brake and throttle on the preditor i got the 173 cc preditor vertical for my huskee 22 ton splitter i used a wire hanger on the brake and i used a wire to hold the throttle to full its annoying i split about 2 cords that way and added gas before it shut off but then i had to wait until it ran out of gas to shut it off, annoying i read a post about the honda throttle but not to sure how to put that on the darn thing.


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## MrWhoopee (Jul 26, 2017)

Jakers said:


> It works, is cheaper, and faster than sending something out to be chrome plated and waiting 2 months to get the impliment back in service



Having worked in and owned a machine shop for over 20 years, I can assure you that hydraulic cylinder rods are not sent out to be chromed. Chrome rod is available in 20 ft lengths from most any steel distributor. It is hard chrome plated, centerless ground and polished for size and finish. We usually kept a bar of the most common sizes in the stock rack. An unplated rod will not last long with the abrasion from seals and dust cycling back and forth. 

http://wingatealloys.com/products/s...-i34lavX9HlB7VSfCtep6D2FvMADfwv8aArdkEALw_wcB


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## Jakers (Jul 26, 2017)

MrWhoopee said:


> Having worked in and owned a machine shop for over 20 years, I can assure you that hydraulic cylinder rods are not sent out to be chromed. Chrome rod is available in 20 ft lengths from most any steel distributor. It is hard chrome plated, centerless ground and polished for size and finish. We usually kept a bar of the most common sizes in the stock rack. An unplated rod will not last long with the abrasion from seals and dust cycling back and forth.
> 
> http://wingatealloys.com/products/s...-i34lavX9HlB7VSfCtep6D2FvMADfwv8aArdkEALw_wcB


I did not know that. Learn something new every day.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Jul 27, 2017)

MrWhoopee said:


> Having worked in and owned a machine shop for over 20 years, I can assure you that hydraulic cylinder rods are not sent out to be chromed. Chrome rod is available in 20 ft lengths from most any steel distributor. It is hard chrome plated, centerless ground and polished for size and finish. We usually kept a bar of the most common sizes in the stock rack. An unplated rod will not last long with the abrasion from seals and dust cycling back and forth.
> 
> http://wingatealloys.com/products/s...-i34lavX9HlB7VSfCtep6D2FvMADfwv8aArdkEALw_wcB



Had a 4" rod replaced 2 years ago. (Stick cylinder on the feller buncher) Nut loosened and stripped out the threads for the 2nd time. 
Couldn't just make it shorter, was almost too short before.

Cost us $22 an inch for that ~6ft rod... yup...about $1600. Whole job was almost 3k.


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## MrWhoopee (Jul 27, 2017)

ValleyFirewood said:


> Had a 4" rod replaced 2 years ago. (Stick cylinder on the feller buncher) Nut loosened and stripped out the threads for the 2nd time.
> Couldn't just make it shorter, was almost too short before.
> 
> Cost us $22 an inch for that ~6ft rod... yup...about $1600. Whole job was almost 3k.


Yow, that's one big rod! (That's what she said)


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## Ted Jenkins (Jul 27, 2017)

I have always been pretty successful finding used rams. Building new ones makes no sense unless some exceptional problem comes up. I have been able to collect at least six 4'' to 6" 24'' to 32'' just in case. Thanks


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## Ted Jenkins (Jul 27, 2017)

I was at HF recently and was looking at the Predator engines. They would make a inexpensive 28 CFM setup. It is always nice to have a back up. Thanks


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## kevin j (Jul 28, 2017)

11 gallon and 13 gallon pumps usually have the same size small gear for the low flow side so you can run either pump on the same engine. Just set the unloading pressure a little bit lower with the larger pump but the final high pressure relief valve setting can be the same because the small section is the same displacement


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