# Need help finding muff mod for Stihl MS310



## xdmp22 (Jun 18, 2011)

After spending the day as a newbie and reading a bunch of threads, I have discovered that a muff mod might be a good idea.

So tonight I took off the stock muff...I have been told that muffs with cats cannot be modded but the ones without a cat can be....Is this true?

How do I know If I have a cat in mine? I cannot see any honeycomb looking pcs inside, because it is blocked by swiss cheese holes. When I shake it though, I can hear a block shaped deal in it, like a cat on a Harley, so I assume it has one.

So the questions are:

1. Can my stock muff be modded? 
2. If not, which one do I need in order to mod it?
3. Once I have a moddable muff, can someone please point me in the direction of a thread with good info and pics on muff modding (since I am sure my search skills are laking and there is a thread on it already)?

Here is a pic of the stock muff, let me know if you need more pics, and what part you want a pic of.







Thanks in advance


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## xdmp22 (Jun 18, 2011)

Well, I posted this thread last night not realizing it might take a while to get admin approved. 

Figured with the posting time, it might be a little far down the list so......bump...

Anybody help a newbie?

Thanks guys, and Happy Fathers Day to all the fellow dads out there..........


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## Dan_IN_MN (Jun 18, 2011)

Welcome to AS! 

Here's a link that might help you out: Muff mod how much is too much?


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## xdmp22 (Jun 18, 2011)

manyhobies said:


> Welcome to AS!
> 
> Here's a link that might help you out: Muff mod how much is too much?


 
:msp_thumbup:

that's definitely a good start, I like the spaghetti theory... 

I may try and drill a few holes tonight, or head to the shop and really get carried away and mill a totally new muff from billet stainless.

manyhobies....thank you...rep for you 

anyone else, feel free to pile on some more links and pics


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## xdmp22 (Jun 19, 2011)

Well, when I tried to reply last night, I got another admin must approve message, but when I reply via tapatalk, it seems to work.

My reply hasn't popped up yet, so I figured I'd reply with my phone



manyhobies said:


> Welcome to AS!
> 
> Here's a link that might help you out: Muff mod how much is too much?


 
Thanks manyhobies, this is a very goood start. The 85% rule seems logical and I really like the use of speghetti.... 





I did receive a pm with an email address, I was sent some pics and info and look forward to trying it this coming week.

Ill post up pics and my thoughts once the mod is done.

Thanks again, and Happy Fathers Day to all the fellow Dads out there.....


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## woodyman (Jun 19, 2011)

You should be able to enlarge the stock hole and refit the spark screen.You must readjust the carb richer or risk a melt down after opening up the muffler outlet.I had a MS310 awhile back and another member here put a stright pipe on it for me and it really uped the power output.


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## sefh3 (Jun 19, 2011)

The best way to mod this is to remove the plate and screen. First two items on the muffler. The on the muffler right behind the plate, drill two-three holes in it. I'm going off memory but I think the holes are 1/4" or 5/16". Make sure you take the muffler off so you don't risk the shavings going into the cylinder. After that reistall the screen and plate. Once you get her running, make sure you adjust the H on the carb. Make sure it four stroking.


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## atvhead (Jun 19, 2011)

thats what i did to my old 310. i also connected the slotted holes at the bottom (i think they were in the bottom) and the thing sang a diff tune. i also trimmed back the deflector plate that deflects the exhaust gas 90deg at the output to make it more like 60deg or something.


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## tlandrum (Jun 19, 2011)

my favorite ms310 muffrler mod is 
step 1 set saw on stump
step 2 load buckshot into 12ga
step 3 take 10 paces back
step 4 take aim 
step 5 fire


see mod done, best thing for a ms310:hmm3grin2orange:


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## xdmp22 (Jun 19, 2011)

Thanks for the responses, the guys who have suggested drilling multiple holes, is there a reason? Would just milling a largish rectangle hole in the indentation and enlargening the slots in the bottom work just as good? Or does it need differant holes?

Thanks again


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## xdmp22 (Jun 20, 2011)

tlandrum2002 said:


> my favorite ms310 muffrler mod is
> step 1 set saw on stump
> step 2 load buckshot into 12ga
> step 3 take 10 paces back
> ...


 
Hmmmmm, I think this would add a few to many holes, and a few in the wrong place 

Maybe you are just joking but if not, see below.....

Something wrong with a Stihl MS 310 other than its not your personal preference? I may be a newbe in this forum, but I am not new to forums in general.....why make a troll post in a reasonable thread?

Maybe just start and whole new thread about how you think Husky is better than Stihl, or that Fords are better than Chevy's or Glocks are better than XD's, its really a matter of preference?

That is all.....carry on...........enjoy your evening........


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## nmurph (Jun 20, 2011)

It's not a pro series saw. They are nice saws, a little tough to get into the cylinder and mods are pretty much limited to opening the muffler. Stock, they are a heavy for their weight. A muffler mod makes this ratio a little more acceptable. They don't handle as well because of the heft. The AV system is not as smooth as some. But all in all, they are a perfectly acceptable saw for lots of folks.


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## xdmp22 (Jun 20, 2011)

nmurph said:


> It's not a pro series saw. They are nice saws, a little tough to get into the cylinder and mods are pretty much limited to opening the muffler. Stock, they are a heavy for their weight. A muffler mod makes this ratio a little more acceptable. They don't handle as well because of the heft. The AV system is not as smooth as some. But all in all, they are a perfectly acceptable saw for lots of folks.


 
I can agree with this, as I have posted in another thread, I am not a professional logger, but when the need arises, a good running saw is nice to have. It is a little hefty especially since I hardly cut anything over 14 inches in diameter, but for the 60 bucks I paid for it from my neighbor who couldn't figure out why it wouldn't cut with the chain on backwards the first time he used it, I think it will be good.

nmurph, thanks again for your pm/email, your help was appreciated.


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## HILLBILLYREDNEC (Jun 20, 2011)

You open the muffler outlet area by 20% and four stroke the carb and sharpen the chain an go cut wood. I am of the mindset what a saw looks like or who makes is not as important as long as it does the job and gives me 120% effort :msp_thumbup:


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## xdmp22 (Jun 20, 2011)

HILLBILLYREDNEC said:


> You open the muffler outlet area by 20% and four stroke the carb and sharpen the chain an go cut wood. I am of the mindset what a saw looks like or who makes is not as important as long as it does the job and gives me 120% effort :msp_thumbup:


 
Quick and to the point, thank you......


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## Wolfcsm (Jun 20, 2011)

What you are seeing is the "if it is not a 'pro' saw, it does not cut" bent of a lot of folks here. Every saw has to be the more expensive, probably more modifiable, even numbered(in the case of Stihl) saw.

The MS 310 works very well. I have used mine for about 12 years. It is still the saw I use when I am working a lot of 12 inch oak. It is certainly a saw that can give you years of service.

Welcome to the site. Watch out, CAD will get you sooner or later.

Hal


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## xdmp22 (Jun 20, 2011)

Wolfcsm said:


> What you are seeing is the "if it is not a 'pro' saw, it does not cut" bent of a lot of folks here. Every saw has to be the more expensive, probably more modifiable, even numbered(in the case of Stihl) saw.
> 
> The MS 310 works very well. I have used mine for about 12 years. It is still the saw I use when I am working a lot of 12 inch oak. It is certainly a saw that can give you years of service.
> 
> ...


 
Ahhhhh, makes sense......

I do worry about CAD, I freguent a few gun forums and have fallen into addictions related to those as well, my most recent recovery is from EBR Disease (Evil Black Rifle i.e. AR-15).

Thanks for the post


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## Wolfcsm (Jun 20, 2011)

xdmp22 said:


> Ahhhhh, makes sense......
> 
> I do worry about CAD, I freguent a few gun forums and have fallen into addictions related to those as well, my most recent recovery is from EBR Disease (Evil Black Rifle i.e. AR-15).
> 
> Thanks for the post



I am Hal and I suffer with CAD.

I started with one saw - a MAC 610. Now there are 8. 

Hal


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## sefh3 (Jun 20, 2011)

Just remember these series of saw are NOT pro series. They are homeowner series. Many guys don't like them because they are a pain to work on. They are a bit more complicated to get the cylinder off. Not as easy as the pro series. I have a 290 that I have ran for 10 years and the only issue is it was straight gased. Long story on that. The saw didn't fail because it mechanical failed it didn't last because of operator error. Any ways. IIRC, if you drill too many holes on the muffler you will need to adjust to carb (H side) too many turns out and you will not receive a good throttle response. It will start to bog down then pickup when you blip the throttle. Hope this makes sense. Start small and then adjust until you like it.


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## Karl Robbers (Jun 20, 2011)

tlandrum2002 said:


> my favorite ms310 muffrler mod is
> step 1 set saw on stump
> step 2 load buckshot into 12ga
> step 3 take 10 paces back
> ...


 
Best take 2 shots to make sure.


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## xdmp22 (Jun 20, 2011)

sefh3 said:


> Just remember these series of saw are NOT pro series. They are homeowner series. Many guys don't like them because they are a pain to work on. They are a bit more complicated to get the cylinder off. Not as easy as the pro series. I have a 290 that I have ran for 10 years and the only issue is it was straight gased. Long story on that. The saw didn't fail because it mechanical failed it didn't last because of operator error. Any ways. IIRC, if you drill too many holes on the muffler you will need to adjust to carb (H side) too many turns out and you will not receive a good throttle response. It will start to bog down then pickup when you blip the throttle. Hope this makes sense. Start small and then adjust until you like it.


 
Thanks for the response, yup, I noticed the saw falls in what Stihl calls "mid line" So, again as someone posted, its not a pro grade saw, but its also not a walmart special...lol 

I plan on making a few holes today and will tune the carb, everyone seems to have the same consensus on what needs to be adjusted and what the end result should be, and it makes sense.

Thanks again


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## woodyman (Jun 20, 2011)

I sold my MS310 because I could not get to the cylinder without taking the saw halfway apart.It was a good saw and I would think would still be running good now.I bought it after cutting 25 years with 2 saws and thinking all the saws were still made the same and all Pro grade.My 310 had all kinds of power to run a 20" bar and cut up to 18" red oak with little problems.If I would have kept my 310 and not experimented with other saws I would have had alot more money now:hmm3grin2orange:


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## tlandrum (Jun 20, 2011)

to finish up on my muffler mod sugestion,the ms 310 was one of the worst purchases i ever made. i had an employ that wanted his own saw and for the money he thought the 310 would fit the bill. i bought the saw for him. he used it to cut firewood outof the tops on my logging operation. the saw is heavy, underpowered, not easily torn down to work on, handle bar is plastic and cant take very much use and abuse, the av is not very good. they have there place for certain people but in my opinion for anyone that wants to put some serious use to a saw youd be further ahead to buy a used pro series saw than to buy a new homeowner saw. but huh what do i know im just your average troll without a clue as to what the saws performance is ,right....


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## Karl Robbers (Jun 20, 2011)

tlandrum2002 said:


> to finish up on my muffler mod sugestion,the ms 310 was one of the worst purchases i ever made. i had an employ that wanted his own saw and for the money he thought the 310 would fit the bill. i bought the saw for him. he used it to cut firewood outof the tops on my logging operation. the saw is heavy, underpowered, not easily torn down to work on, handle bar is plastic and cant take very much use and abuse, the av is not very good. they have there place for certain people but in my opinion for anyone that wants to put some serious use to a saw youd be further ahead to buy a used pro series saw than to buy a new homeowner saw. but huh what do i know im just your average troll without a clue as to what the saws performance is ,right....


 
:agree2:
Not particularly cheap for what you get either.


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## xdmp22 (Jun 21, 2011)

Didn't get to it yesterday, but did this morning...here is a few pics...












From the back






Ill get her tuned and tweaked later tonight.........

Thanks to the people with reasonable posts related to the actual OP.........


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## nmurph (Jun 21, 2011)

Just ignore Terry. He's recovering from a long and hard weekend. He may be giving you a hard time about your saw, but he'd be the first one to jump in and help you if you needed something.

Good job on the MM. You will like the result. 

Now, forget your log-in info. I came here nearly four years ago with a question about why my 310's clutch wouldn't stop turning. The next thing was doing a MM on it. The rest is history. I have about 50 saws. I have read many similar stories of others who have suffered the same fate.


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## TJ-Bill (Jun 21, 2011)

woodyman said:


> You should be able to enlarge the stock hole and refit the spark screen.You must readjust the carb richer or risk a melt down after opening up the muffler outlet.I had a MS310 awhile back and another member here put a stright pipe on it for me and it really uped the power output.



Saw is still working great too!!


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## xdmp22 (Jun 21, 2011)

TJ-Bill said:


> Saw is still working great too!!


 
Good to hear...I got a buddy that works @ a pawn shop, he is going through misc. Parts this week looking for a few muffs for my saw, I am going to attempt one similar to yours next.....

Thanks for the pics, that's a nice muff you have there  lol


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## xdmp22 (Jun 21, 2011)

I got it installed tonight and successfully upset the neighbor while tuning it...but I didn't break any laws so life is good.

I do have a question though about the four stroking/burble.....
I am under the impression it is supposed to burble a little at idle, and it sounds like through suggestions here it is supposed to burble a little @ WOT....is this true? Right now the saw burbles a little @ idle, but not @ WOT. It takes a split second to get from idle to WOT, but does bog just a little while building rpm.

Are my assumptions here true? Should I richen the saw at WOT? Will that make it bog less @ initial blurp of the throttle? Do I need to turn the "H" screw out a little more to accomplish this?

Thanks guys....more in a bit


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## tlandrum (Jun 21, 2011)

after your muffler mod you still need a 4 stroke at wot,if its not slightly 4 stroking give it more h,it dont need to be pig rich ,just 4 stroking. if it bogs off idle you may be rich on the L needle. lean it out and turn the idle screw in to get it back to idling proper, that should get you saw running better


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## HILLBILLYREDNEC (Jun 21, 2011)

A smidge of turn in on the low and back out awee bit while running. Here is Link to Snellerizers channel.
YouTube - ‪blsnelling's Channel‬&rlm;

This how it should sound.


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## xdmp22 (Jun 22, 2011)

tlandrum2002 said:


> to finish up on my muffler mod sugestion,the ms 310 was one of the worst purchases i ever made. i had an employ that wanted his own saw and for the money he thought the 310 would fit the bill. i bought the saw for him. he used it to cut firewood outof the tops on my logging operation. the saw is heavy, underpowered, not easily torn down to work on, handle bar is plastic and cant take very much use and abuse, the av is not very good. they have there place for certain people but in my opinion for anyone that wants to put some serious use to a saw youd be further ahead to buy a used pro series saw than to buy a new homeowner saw. but huh what do i know im just your average troll without a clue as to what the saws performance is ,right....



Terry, I wasn't trying to insinuate that you were a troll, just that because I had asked a reasonable question about modding a particular saw, and you saw it fit to crap on my saw selection due to a good deal, I found that trollish as a post in general guess I was just a little . I do appreciate your input, and would have been glad to receive the 12 guage comment if I had posted a thread on whether the MS310 would be worth purchasing and asking for opinions. Again, I must have been a little crabby. 



nmurph said:


> Just ignore Terry. He's recovering from a long and hard weekend. He may be giving you a hard time about your saw, but he'd be the first one to jump in and help you if you needed something.
> 
> Good job on the MM. You will like the result.
> 
> Now, forget your log-in info. I came here nearly four years ago with a question about why my 310's clutch wouldn't stop turning. The next thing was doing a MM on it. The rest is history. I have about 50 saws. I have read many similar stories of others who have suffered the same fate.



Well, looks like you were right, Terry went from the 12 guage comment to retorting to my response post and then to a very good suggestion and answer to my latest question (see his quoted post below)

As far as forgetting my log-in info, well yes, I probably should for the reasons posted, but just cant bring myself to do it, looks like I will continue to open myself up to the viscous effects of CAD. 50 saws?, That's definitely alot, hopefully I can keep my CAD to less than 10 in the next few years 



tlandrum2002 said:


> after your muffler mod you still need a 4 stroke at wot,if its not slightly 4 stroking give it more h,it dont need to be pig rich ,just 4 stroking. if it bogs off idle you may be rich on the L needle. lean it out and turn the idle screw in to get it back to idling proper, that should get you saw running better



this is great, thank you, appreciate you coming back and providing this valuable information. I'll give it a try tomorrow..........



HILLBILLYREDNEC said:


> A smidge of turn in on the low and back out awee bit while running. Here is Link to Snellerizers channel.
> YouTube - ‪blsnelling's Channel‬&rlm;
> 
> This how it should sound.



that's a great link, thank you, I searched you tube, but got both good and bad vids, appreciate it


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## HILLBILLYREDNEC (Jun 22, 2011)

Snellerizer is the Doctor of chainsaws  I am glad your willing to give a lowly homeowner saw a chance The 310 is a well like saw for firewood in my area. With a 24" bar and a good sharp chain it wil get the job done:msp_thumbup:


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## xdmp22 (Jun 22, 2011)

HILLBILLYREDNEC said:


> Snellerizer is the Doctor of chainsaws  I am glad your willing to give a lowly homeowner saw a chance The 310 is a well like saw for firewood in my area. With a 24" bar and a good sharp chain it wil get the job done:msp_thumbup:


 
thanks....i think....

24"? Mine has a 20" bar right now....that was another thing I was going to research was the different sizes of bars I could use, I figured an 18 would not be an issue, but how big can I go.....obviously it depends on the chain, and what I am cutting, and all that....hence the research needed

thanks again


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## HILLBILLYREDNEC (Jun 22, 2011)

Any saw sub 65 CC 24" bar are only good for softer timber species, the saws sold in my area are setup either 24" safetey or full skip. Full skip for the novice is a dangerous chain lots of add safety factors. Any saw sub 65 CC 20" bars are good for softer timber species do to how much hard the saw must work.


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## xdmp22 (Jun 22, 2011)

HILLBILLYREDNEC said:


> Any saw sub 65 CC 24" bar are only good for softer timber species, the saws sold in my area are setup either 24" safetey or full skip. Full skip for the novice is a dangerous chain lots of add safety factors. Any saw sub 65 CC 20" bars are good for softer timber species do to how much hard the saw must work.


 
Good info, small question though....if I have a 10in diameter log of medium hardness wood, what is the differances between a 18" bar and a 20-24" bar assuming the same chain profile? When I got my MS310 it needed a chain and my local dealer had a buy 2 get 1 free on Stihl brand chains (IIRC the total was around 40 bucks for 3). The dealer suggested a 36 RSC 72 for general use, so that's what I got. It is a 3/8 chain that is .063" and is the yellow chain.

Thanks again


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## HILLBILLYREDNEC (Jun 22, 2011)

You will be fine just feel the saw and let a sharp chain feed it self with no extra pressure and you will be fine in harder wood less the 14"


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## xdmp22 (Jun 22, 2011)

HILLBILLYREDNEC said:


> You will be fine just feel the saw and let a sharp chain feed it self with no extra pressure and you will be fine in harder wood less the 14"


 
Sweet, that's all the bigger I should ever need for now

Thanks again


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## HILLBILLYREDNEC (Jun 22, 2011)

xdmp22 said:


> Sweet, that's all the bigger I should ever need for now
> 
> Thanks again


 
Your Welcome 


:msp_smile: :msp_thumbsup:


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## little possum (Jun 22, 2011)

Mod looks good. 

Be careful doing long bucking cuts. I would put 3$ on it setting the bark on fire


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## watsonr (Jun 22, 2011)

I think you have it, increase the muffler flow in any way, drill a couple holes, make a new opening or ventilate the entire saw should get the trick done. Just don't forget to enrichen the fuel mixture on the high side or you'll be rebuilding it. 

Couldn't have been better....backwards chain recognition :msp_scared:and $60.00 you have a nice saw!
Did you tell him?
The answer to that will determine how well you fit in here!!:msp_wink:


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## xdmp22 (Jun 22, 2011)

watsonr said:


> I think you have it, increase the muffler flow in any way, drill a couple holes, make a new opening or ventilate the entire saw should get the trick done. Just don't forget to enrichen the fuel mixture on the high side or you'll be rebuilding it.
> 
> Couldn't have been better....backwards chain recognition :msp_scared:and $60.00 you have a nice saw!
> Did you tell him?
> The answer to that will determine how well you fit in here!!:msp_wink:


 
Yeah, I have been thinking of airflow, I will figure out something clever.

I am going to finish tuing it tonight based on the latest info.

I didn't really tell him, He bought the thing new, and then went home and took the bar and chain off to get familiar with it. Then never used it or put it back together for about 3 years because the tree he was going to cut ended up being close to power lines and the local power company came by a few days after he bought it and did it for him.

Then during a storm a few weeks back, a largish limb broke on his other tree and he went to cut it after putting the saw back together....I was picking up twigs in my yard and saw a giant plume of smoke coming from his yard and went over to watch the show.....lol he stopped and we talked and after cussing the saw for being a POS I offered him 50 bucks just to be a smart a$$. He told me he would take 60 just so he didn't have to look @ it anymore. I quickly popped 3 20's out and helped him get rid og his POS saw 

A few days later I stopped by my local dealer and grabbed a few chains (to replace the freshly retempered brownish blue one that was on it). Put the chain on and went outside and delimbed a few low lying branches on my tree.

He happened to be outside as well....nothing but smiles from me and he went inside.

It was actually pretty funny.

So....how do I fit in here? Lol, I will assume I passed the test...for now.....


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## nmurph (Jun 22, 2011)

Most people fall into one of two camps-those that would have corrected him and given him the saw, and those that wouldn't. I belong to the former. Now if he was a jerk and caused you constant grief, then I might have done otherwise. You know, morals are relative sometimes and relatives are moral sometimes.

From what I remember on retuning my saw after the MM, I needed mostly L adjustment and just a tweak on the H. The L feeds both at low and high rpms. So, often increasing the L will take care of most of the high rpm need.


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## xdmp22 (Jun 22, 2011)

little possum said:


> Mod looks good.
> 
> Be careful doing long bucking cuts. I would put 3$ on it setting the bark on fire


 
Thanks

I did put the spark screen back in...not sure how long it will last though with a direct shot right from the cylinder........


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## xdmp22 (Jun 22, 2011)

nmurph said:


> Most people fall into one of two camps-those that would have corrected him and given him the saw, and those that wouldn't. I belong to the former. Now if he was a jerk and caused you constant grief, then I might have done otherwise. You know, morals are relative sometimes and relatives are moral sometimes.
> 
> From what I remember on retuning my saw after the MM, I needed mostly L adjustment and just a tweak on the H. The L feeds both at low and high rpms. So, often increasing the L will take care of most of the high rpm need.


 
He hasn't been a jerk, but he does tend to be one of those guys that feels there is nor reason to learn everything because he already has a penis and that predisposes him to knowing everything. There really is no suggestions or things to say he would take, it would just be insulting him. He doesn't ask for help nor will he take it when offered.

I don't feel like I completely railed him because I just offered 50 bucks as a joke and he came back with 60....looked like a win to me. Correct that the best moral thing would be to have told him about the chain, and taken a little guff about how he knew that already (even when he didn't) but I sleep fine @ night knowing the saw is in my possession so no loss.....

Thanks for the tip on the L screw, after taking out the limiters, modding them and reinstalling, I thought I put the screws back to where they were factory, but found myself turning the L up more than I thought I might have to just to get it to idle correctly. So you rememberance might just be spot on.

We will see tonight when I get home

Thanks again for everything


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## watsonr (Jun 22, 2011)

xdmp22 said:


> He hasn't been a jerk, but he does tend to be one of those guys that feels there is nor reason to learn everything because he already has a penis and that predisposes him to knowing everything. There really is no suggestions or things to say he would take, it would just be insulting him. He doesn't ask for help nor will he take it when offered.
> 
> I don't feel like I completely railed him because I just offered 50 bucks as a joke and he came back with 60....looked like a win to me. Correct that the best moral thing would be to have told him about the chain, and taken a little guff about how he knew that already (even when he didn't) but I sleep fine @ night knowing the saw is in my possession so no loss.....


 
And you like guns too, should fit in fine here!

Welcome


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## xdmp22 (Jun 22, 2011)

watsonr said:


> And you like guns too, should fit in fine here!
> 
> Welcome


 
WOOT!

Yes, I have many addictions...sounds like I am gaining another with these silly 2 stroke animals


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## TJ-Bill (Jun 24, 2011)

you should take a video when your done.. here's one of mine I dug up..

YouTube - ‪MS310 Noddles‬&rlm;


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## xdmp22 (Jun 26, 2011)

ran the saw for a few hours today on some dead rotting Elm, got her all tuned in and running good.

might have an issue with a dirty oiler, but as far as running, its good to go.

only threw a few sparks today, with no smoldering.....

Thanks again!!!!!


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## Micah.mwr (Dec 30, 2012)

*Ms310 mods*

I'm a newbie to all this I read some posts and saw the pics with the spreadsheet and the numbers. Was just wondering what kind of rpms could be expected out of an ms310 with a fully mod exhaust. Would it be relative to the #s on the spreadsheet and what is too much?


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## lambs (Dec 30, 2012)

Micah.mwr said:


> I'm a newbie to all this I read some posts and saw the pics with the spreadsheet and the numbers. Was just wondering what kind of rpms could be expected out of an ms310 with a fully mod exhaust. Would it be relative to the #s on the spreadsheet and what is too much?



First of all welcome to AS. 

I think the consensus here is that after you mod the muffler, you must retune the carb. Since you have changed the flow of air through the saw, the stock numbers on rpm no longer apply. In fact, the saw will be gulping so much more air that the mix will be too lean, and the lack of lubrication is what will ruin your saw. So you need to add more fuel. As others have stated, you need to richen the carb H screw until the saw is 4 stroking at wide open throttle, and when you put it in the wood, it should stop 4 stroking. Then you have reached the maximum fuel flow that it wants. After that, always a good idea to keep that little screwdriver with you.


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