# Request Chainsaw , bar and chain advice for a Logosol Big mill



## woodlearner (Mar 15, 2013)

May I have some advice please ? :confused2:

I have a Logosol Big Mill that I have never used. I want to buy a new Huskvarna 395 XP to use on the mill. I would like to have the smallest kerf possible. I am thinking of what would be the ideal chain gauge, brand of chain, bar brand, and lengths of bar to get the most bang for the buck. I have heard also that a good sprocket is important. I would want use the ideal and same sprocket for everything if possible. I want quality wood with safety first.

I would like to use a 36 inch bar for cutting down trees and also for doing some slabbing in some nice red and white oak trees. Also at times I would like to cut some oak into smaller boards. So I was wondering what bar and chain would be good for resawing and edging. I do not want to waste any more wood than is necessary. Smooth finish is also something to be desired.

At times I would like to saw up some large Southern Yellow Pine trees that have lots of sticky resin. I would want to cut some posts and also some boards.

Please give your expert advice.

Thanks,


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## MHouse1028 (Mar 15, 2013)

hi there, a good 3/8 b&c would work best for you and standard ripping chain from bailey's leaves a real nice finish..it's sold by the drive link or roll.as far as brand of bar there are alot of choices for that saw and length oregon is qaulity with a great price also sold by bailey's....well good luck and enjoy


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## mtngun (Mar 16, 2013)

Low pro ripping chain. Gradually regrind to Malloff specs.


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## woodlearner (Mar 16, 2013)

mtngun said:


> Low pro ripping chain. Gradually regrind to Malloff specs.



Hello friends,
Where can I find the low pro specs and supplier ?
Where can I find the Malloff information please ?

I want the smallest kerf that does not void a warranty or become unsafe at the expense of some sawdust.

I am such a novice I assume that the 3/8 b & c means a 3/8” pitch chain. I was looking at the Husqvarna website and they sell 3/8” pitch chain in two different gauges. 1.5 mm and 1.3 mm. Would the 1.3 mm give a smaller kerf than the 1.5 mm ? I assume it would but that would depend on if the cutters were the same size. 

When looking at the Husqvarna website (HUSQVARNA 395 XP® - XP® saws ) It looks like the longer the bar the larger the gauge, example from the website referring to part number 965 90 27-20	36" Bar, 3/8" Pitch, .058" Gauge producing 6.97 hp versus part number 965 90 27-37	24" Bar, .3/8" Pitch, .050" Gauge	94 cc producing 7.1 hp

I am thinking of those two options, maybe getting a 28 inch bar also. What do you think ? 

Would those two options use the same sprocket ?

Any idea of the size of the *kerf difference *in the above part number choices ?

I have heard in the past of a smaller chain but I am not sure if that would void the warranty ?
By the way, I have heard that Husqvarna offers a* 2 year warranty* for use with a Logosol mill. I think that is true but can anybody confirm that ? I do not think Stihl can match that but I would love to know. That is why I am leaning towards a Husqvarna.
All of your help and feedback is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
woodlearner


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## excess650 (Mar 16, 2013)

For the narrowest kerf with 3/8 you'll need a .050 gauge bar so as to be able to run the low profile 91V chain. Bailey's (site sponsor with icon above) has 91 series ripping chain as well as 91VXL which is a long tooth version of their "chamfer chisel" (semi-chisel).

I'm not sure how accurate the Logosol Big Mill cuts as compared to a Granberg Alaskan which holds the bar captive on BOTH ends. It seems to me that a non-captive bar may droop and wander.

Changing chain should have no affect on a saw's warranty. I seem to recall Stihl only having a 60 day or 90 day warranty on 660s. I've purchased all of my saws intended for milling used, so never gave warranty a thought. Most of the 36" bars available for Husqvarna are .063 gauge, so will not allow using the low profile (91 series) chain. You COULD buy a Stihl 36" 3/8 .050 ES bar and a Stihl to Husqvarna adaptor!

I've run Bailey's Woodland Pro 3/8 .050 ripping chain on my 32" and 36" Stihl bars as well as Stihl semi-chisel (33RM). Full chisel and skip chain will make for rougher finishes, so is best avoided for milling.


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## woodlearner (Mar 16, 2013)

Thanks for the feedback friends. Please keep working the questions over in detail. I am all ears ( or should that be eyes ? )


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## excess650 (Mar 16, 2013)

I would suggest that you use the search for "Logosol Big Mill", or "Logosol Mill" and see what threads come up. The guys with direct Logosol experience may be a better help and confirm or dispute the drooping bar/wandering that I'm suspicious of.


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## woodlearner (Mar 19, 2013)

Hello Chainsaw experts and milling friends,

I presently have a logosol Big Mill basic setup which includes the Timberjig, so that is what I am working with, however any sawyer that is chainsaw milling has advice that I highly prize.

I appreciate your help so far and would like to continue to receive more. Please look at my original post question and see if there is anything specific you can help me with. I am debating getting a Husky 395 XP or the Stihl 660. I want to be able to run the long bars such as a 36 for felling and bucking and slabbing and then switch to something like a 28 inch bar or maybe even a smaller bar such as a 16 inch.

I would like to know exactly what setups you guys are using, Saw, bar and chain and what you would do differently if you were ordering today for a new setup. Please give me your ordering source, the exact bar brand and part number and chain part number so we can compare and I can get started as soon as possible with milling. I want a smooth cut that does not require much finishing on red oak. For cutting up pine for construction purposes, i do not mind a slightly rougher finish, but but something that can take stain or paint without sanding.

Thanks very much,

woodlearner


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## excess650 (Mar 19, 2013)

I'm currently running a Stihl 066 with WP BB kit and a MS660 as backup, sharing Stihl 32" and 36" 3/8 .050 ES bars. What I would do differently:

Husqvarna 395xp or 3120xp
36" Cannon bar 3/8 .050 Bailey's - Cannon 36" Superbar Plus 115 drive links
24" Cannon bar 3/8 .050 Bailey's - Cannon 24" Superbar Plus 375 X 050

ripping chain for the 36" Bailey's - WoodlandPro 30RP Ripping Chainsaw Chain

semi-chisel for both bars, and also works well for ripping Bailey's - WoodlandPro 30SC Chainsaw Chain

full chisel for both bars for felling and bucking Bailey's - WoodlandPro 30RC Chainsaw Chain

alternative full chisel would be Oregon 72LGX (Bailey's) 

Stihl chain available from Stihl dealer 33RM (semi-chisel) 33RS full chisel with the 33RM being my favorite all around chain

You should have several loops of each chain for each bar. You'll need 7/32" and 13/64" round files, flat raker files, a file guide unless you're good at freehand, wedges....


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## BobL (Mar 19, 2013)

My experience suggests the smoothness of a CSM cut is determined as more by the operator/methods than the chain. 

I have posted about this several times but to summarise;
- using log rails for every cut removes the transference of large dips and bumps to successive cuts.
- avoid slamming WOT into cuts after stopping to put in wedges etc since this may cause the CSM to jump up or dive down and leaving marks significant groves in the wood ; instead ease the CSM back into the cut.
- avoid see-sawing a CSM down a log, maintain the same angle all the way down the log.
- use constant rather than varying pressure on the CSM - this is where using a slope or winch helps. I use a combination of legs and arms to apply pressure so there is alway some pressure on the CSM

I think that regular semichisel will give a slightly better finish than full chisel and that top plate filing angle makes very little difference.


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## woodlearner (Mar 20, 2013)

Hey Bobl,

Some good advice there. By the way I am such a rookie what is a WOT ? I assume a CSM is a chainsaw mill. By the way is there a list of abbreviations somewhere so rookies like me, can look them up ?

What kind of mill have you run and are you running now ? 

I like your info. Can you give more info like excess650 did please.

Hey Excess650, Excellent post, now that is what I am talking about. You hit a homerun with that last post !! 

I really appreciate the detailed info. I have spent some time looking and calling and talking to folks such as Oregon, Bailey's, etc. but nothing beats the feedback from a fellow miller.

What kind of mill are you using now ?

Can I cut some wedges out of oak or would it be better to get some plastic wedges ?

I have a Granberg chain tool, it is like a pair of vice grips and it has a chain breaker and a rivet spinner. Never used it so I have no experience. Can I just buy some chain and make my own loops or do I need to get some chain tie straps or some kind of other part I do not know the name for to tie my loops together ?

Hey guys, please tell what you would get if you could start fresh today, like Excess650 did !!

Hey Logosol folks, please chime in here. 

Thanks,

the learning woodlearner :msp_smile:


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## mtngun (Mar 20, 2013)

woodlearner said:


> I have a Granberg chain tool, it is like a pair of vice grips and it has a chain breaker and a rivet spinner. Never used it so I have no experience. Can I just buy some chain and make my own loops or do I need to get some chain tie straps or some kind of other part I do not know the name for to tie my loops together ?



If you are in the US it is easier to buy ready-made loops from Baileys. 3 loops is all you need. No cost savings to buying bulk chain unless you need many, many loops.

As posted earlier, I would go with lo-pro chain, which has a smaller kerf and cuts faster than 3/8. Lo-pro requires a special drive sprocket, which Logosol sells. You can either get a special lo-pro bar, or a 3/8 x .050 bar can be modified to fit. Some claim that 3/8 bars fit fine but you never see them post pics. The sprocket teeth are thinner on a low-pro nose.


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## excess650 (Mar 20, 2013)

My previous response "what I would do differently". More opinions:

Bars: Tsumura (Laser or Total Super) are excellent bars, but not commonly available. Oregon Power Match bars are fine, and more reasonably priced, widely available, and in an pretty good variety of length, pitches, and gauges. Stihl ES bars are excellent, and can be adapted to large Husqvarna mounts with an adaptor (Bailey's has 'em). For milling, I'm recommending solid bars only, not laminated.

I wouldn't put any shorter than 20" bar on a 395xp, and 24" would be better. Those big displacement saws are meant to be run "loaded" so as to not be screaming high RPM constantly. Changing the drive sprocket from 7 to 8 or even 9 teeth would help load the saw for bucking smaller wood, but you'll want to take advantage of the saw's torque for milling, so 7 tooth will be better for wider wood. The kind of wood and power of the saw will indicate what you need.

I'm using a Granberg Alaskan mill with Stihl 066/660. The rails are changeable from 24" to at least 56", but a too narrow mill is a handicap as is one that is too wide. A positive attribute to the Alasakan variety mill is that the bar is captured on both ends so as to promote uniform thickness cuts. This becomes more important as the bar gets longer, and long bars can sag between the captured ends if the sawyer doesn't tune in to that detail.

I'm moving towards using my Husqvarna 3120 more, and added a 394xp. The downside to These Husky saws is their front chain adjuster isn't as easily accessed. I'm expecting the 394 to have more torque that my big Stihls. The other big Stihl is the 880 or older 088, but they take a different bar mount than the 660 and smaller. If you're a dyed in the wool Stihl guy, an 880 or older 084 might be your choice. I'm just wanting MORE than my 066 and 66o deliver, and already have a 3120.

Wedges? Yes, you can cut your own from wood or just use the plastic wedges. 

WOT? Wide Open Throttle is where you want to be when cutting with a chainsaw, either WOT or idling.

Fuel? (oh no!) Premium grade gasoline, preferrably ethanol free or not more than 10% mixed with a good mix oil, synthetic or synthetic blend, 40-1. Tune the saw towards the rich side so as to aid in cooling. Some guys run 32-1, but I've found 40-1 to be adequate in my saws. Fuel with ethanol should be used in 4 weeks or less, ethanol treatment won't hurt, steel cans that seal are better than plastic cans that expand and contract. Fuel may leech stuff from the pastics, and it will definitely lose some aromatic volatiles if the container can't remain sealed.


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## scogar (Mar 21, 2013)

Great advice guys - looking to add a bigger bar to my MS460. After two runs with 12 in pine I am picking up an 8 foot length of SYP supposed to be 28 in at the butt. So I need a new bar and some new chain as well. so all this advice is very helpful indeed

Scott


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## woodlearner (Mar 27, 2013)

Hey Excess 650,

Great and detailed advice, very on target. Much obliged !!

By the way , what does CAD real bad mean ? Do you mean computer aided drafting or something like Chainsaw Addicted Dutchman ? By the way the chainsaw drawing is cool, did you draw it with CAD ?

Thanks,

woodlearner


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## mad murdock (Mar 28, 2013)

Chainsaw Accquisition Disorder=CAD. I run currently a granberg Alaskan mkIII, and use my Husky 372 XPW as my main milling setup with a 32" bar (Oregon power match) using Stihl's 63PMX (picco) low-pro milling chain. The oil-o-matic feature of the chain is a big plus compared to conventional drive link chains! I started out with Carlton (woodsman pro) ripping chain, and after about 5,000 bd ft of milling with that switched to the low pro chain- best thing I did. I added a home made version of granberg's mini mill for edging, and really increased my milling efficiency, using a separate saw for each task. I am real happy with the results and my production. The other saws I use are Mac 10-10 for edging, and for real big stuff a Stihl 075.


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## woodlearner (Mar 28, 2013)

Hello Mad Murdock,

Good to hear from you, earlier someone had said you were using Picco. Does that leave a nice smooth finish better than other chains ?

What is the sprocket you use ?

I could not find the Picco 63PMX on the Stihl sawchain and selection chart. I hope they still make it. The longest bar recommended for Picco is 18". I wonder if Picco 63PMX has been discontinued ?

Anybody try to buy any in the last day or so off of the internet ?

thanks for revealing the Mystery of CAD,

woodlearner


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## mtngun (Mar 29, 2013)

woodlearner said:


> someone had said you were using Picco. Does that leave a nice smooth finish better than other chains ?


Picco is just another name for lo-pro.

Finish will depend on how the chain is sharpened. The smaller the bite, the smoother the finish, and the slower the cutting speed. As mentioned previously, you'll get the best speeds with the Malloff grind, though it will be rougher because it takes bigger bites.


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