# Just ordered some Cooks Super Sharps to try out...



## TraditionalTool (Feb 10, 2010)

Been having a hard time figuring out what type of blades to use on my LumberMate. I see mixed reviews on most of the brands I was looking at, Cooks Super Sharps, Lenox Woodmaster Cs, and Simonds RedStreak...

My mentor highly recommended the Cooks Super Sharps, but has only used one on his sawmill, and said it cut beautifully. The reason he's not using them is that his sharpener doesn't have the proper cam for the Cooks Super Sharps, so has been using Lenox.

There is a local saw shop about 1 hour away from me that has the equipment to resharpen the Super Sharps, with the roller machine and proper cam, so hopefully I can get them resharpened there without sending them back to Alabama. One of the things that shy'd me away from Cooks initially was the shipping was $50 for a box of 10. *ouch!* It hurts to be in Cali sometimes...but when the weather breaks I'll be gloating...

I called and Cooks could ship parcel post for $29, so I ordered them. I doubt I could get shipping on a box of 10 Lenox or Simonds blades cheaper...so I think it's worth trying out the Cooks Super Sharps.

I'll let you guys know what I think about them when they come, hopefully I'll have everything setup by then. The Cooks Super Sharps have an 8 degree hook and .022" set. Well, the gal said 22 set, when I asked if that was .022" she said she wasn't sure. Being that I build handsaws I'm sure that must be what they mean, the blades are .042" thick.

The blades I was given with the mill are Lenox, AFAIK, but I will find out for sure when I head over to the yard.

What blades do some of you other folks use on your sawmills? I have seen really bad reviews on the Norwood blades, and they sell for more than any of the other blades, so crossed those off my list early in the search. I think I have one of the cobaltized blades that is new, as they give you one with the mill, and I bet the previous owner didn't use it. I only have 1 or 2 new blades, but suspect I may only have one new blade and it might be the blade they give with a sawmill purchase, or at least used to give, not sure if Norwood still does.


----------



## redprospector (Feb 10, 2010)

I started running Timberwolf blades from Suffolk several years ago, and they are good blades. But when I started having problems with them Suffolk just told me it was something I was doing, and it was my fault. I told them "Duh.....I figured that, they cut good when I got them and I'm the only one who has touched them. I'd like to figure out what I'm doing to them."
Cooks helped me solve the problem, so I ordered 20 of their Super Sharps (not to mention a band roller). I haven't used but a couple of the Super Sharps because I wanted to get all the good out of the Timberwolfs first. But I am really impressed with them so far. I'm planning on getting one of the Cook's sharpeners this summer, and I'll give them a real test.

Andy


----------



## TraditionalTool (Feb 11, 2010)

redprospector said:


> I started running Timberwolf blades from Suffolk several years ago, and they are good blades. But when I started having problems with them Suffolk just told me it was something I was doing, and it was my fault. I told them "Duh.....I figured that, they cut good when I got them and I'm the only one who has touched them. I'd like to figure out what I'm doing to them."
> Cooks helped me solve the problem, so I ordered 20 of their Super Sharps (not to mention a band roller). I haven't used but a couple of the Super Sharps because I wanted to get all the good out of the Timberwolfs first. But I am really impressed with them so far. I'm planning on getting one of the Cook's sharpeners this summer, and I'll give them a real test.
> 
> Andy


Andy,

That's really good to hear! The customer support seems really good at Cooks. They have a raffle going on when you buy a box of 10 blades, you get an entry in the raffle that will be held in June. They are raffling off an MP-32! 

The woman I spoke to was very nice, Marcia, and she told me that if I have any problems with the blades on my Norwood Mill, just call the 800 number and they'll help me tune them up to run well on it.

Support is worth quite a bit, and as you noted, they even helped you figure out why the Timber Wolf blades wouldn't work correctly, that's truly impressive. Makes me feel good about the purchase that much more.

Of course it was comforting to know that there's a saw shop about an hour away that has their cat's claw sharpening, band roller, setter, and cam for the Super Sharps. Hopefully he can take care of me until I might find a reasonable deal on a sharpener. BTW, they have a cam for both WoodMizer sharpeners and cat's claw sharpeners and they provide one for free if you buy 20 blades. I'm gonna be on the lookout for a WoodMizer sharpener and setter at a reasonable price.

My mentor, Tim Bullock, bought one Super Sharp and was really impressed over the Lenox blades. The only thing keeping him back from ordering more is that his sharpener won't work correctly to sharpen them. He is able to resharpen the Lenox blades though, so he keeps using them. He admitted that the Cooks Super Sharps not only cut better but last longer as well.


----------



## deeker (Feb 11, 2010)

I use the cooks super sharps exclusivily.


----------



## Backwoods (Feb 11, 2010)

I have not given the Cooks a try yet. I found that the Timberwolf was made with a soft steel and they did not hold a set very well, but you could get a lot of sharpening from them. I am running a 42hp diesel so am using the 184”x 1 ½ x .055, 10* and 13*. I have had real good luck with the Woodmizer double hard saws. I get 10-12 sharpenings, with out any cracking issues, and they hold the set very well.


----------



## TraditionalTool (Feb 11, 2010)

deeker said:


> I use the cooks super sharps exclusivily.


deeker, are you the same deeker over on Saw Bucks that has a LumberMate? If so, your comments were some that I weighted in my purchase, since I also have a LumberMate.

I also put a lot of faith in what Backwoods says, and he mentioned some problems sharpening some of the Cooks blades, but I know they require a special cam per the Cooks folks, but what Backwoods mentioned was the the owner had knocked teeth off the Cooks blades. That I don't have an explanation for.

That said, I put a lot of faith in what Andy (redprospector) says as well, as I know that Andy races chainsaws and files his chains by hand. I make my own handsaws and file them by hand, but chains and certainly square are new to me. I do run square chain on my Husky 359, that will be used to buck the ends of the logs for my log home. So all the logs are cleaned with no bark and the live edges have been drawknifed. Square should work dandy on that wood.

So much to learn about sawmills, different blades, techniques, etc...but the good thing is that the Cooks blades are a $200 investment into my education, just as the existing 10 Lenox blades I have are as well, and possibly some Timberwolf blades in the future. Who knows, maybe the Cooks blades will be all I need, I do not have a high demand, mostly for the home I'm building and milling up some hardwoods for furniture and cabinet work. Call me a wood whore if you like, I couldn't argue my way out of that one very easy...


----------



## Mike Van (Feb 11, 2010)

Just my 2 cents - I tried two of the SS blades, and for me, I didn't find they were worth the extra cost of the Simonds Red Streaks from Cooks. TT, if you are going to get serious about sawing, look for a sharpener & setter. Best investment I made in the last several years.


----------



## mountainlake (Feb 11, 2010)

Mike Van said:


> Just my 2 cents - I tried two of the SS blades, and for me, I didn't find they were worth the extra cost of the Simonds Red Streaks from Cooks. TT, if you are going to get serious about sawing, look for a sharpener & setter. Best investment I made in the last several years.



Same here, My Simonds saw just as good if not better, at $14.70 each for a 12' 6" blades I'll keep running them. Steve


----------



## deeker (Feb 11, 2010)

TraditionalTool said:


> *deeker, are you the same deeker over on Saw Bucks that has a LumberMate?* If so, your comments were some that I weighted in my purchase, since I also have a LumberMate.
> 
> *Guilty on all counts. Your honor.*
> I also put a lot of faith in what Backwoods says, and he mentioned some problems sharpening some of the Cooks blades, but I know they require a special cam per the Cooks folks, but what Backwoods mentioned was the the owner had knocked teeth off the Cooks blades. That I don't have an explanation for.
> ...



That would be me....but shhhhhh as I am shy....

We use the Cook's super sharps on pine, spruce, cedars/junipers, and several of the hard woods....fire salvaged ones too.

No complaints yet.

Keep us posted...and with pics....or it did not happen.

Kevin


----------



## TraditionalTool (Feb 11, 2010)

Mike Van said:


> TT, if you are going to get serious about sawing, look for a sharpener & setter. Best investment I made in the last several years.


Nothing more I would like to do than find one at a reasonable price. Just not running out to spend $2k on a sharpener and setter, certainly not in this economy. Yeah, I know I could get the Norwood for cheaper, but I would want to find a WoodMizer at minimum as I know it can take the Cooks cam to sharpen the Super Sharps.

Nothing wrong with Simonds blades, not sure if I have used any or not. Tim Bullock said he has some, we were going through 1-2 blades a day when I was milling with his crew. I didn't pay attention, if a blade wasn't cutting good we took it off and put another one on. He got some new Lenox blades while I was there.

Blades are a religious topic, could be debated for years on end I 'spose. I want to try the Super Sharps for myself. Some think they are hype, others stick to them solely. I think Cooks is on to something with the roller, yet another investment, or opportunity to fabricate one's own...


deeker said:


> That would be me....but shhhhhh as I am shy....


I understand, I'm a bit shy myself...lol


deeker said:


> We use the Cook's super sharps on pine, spruce, cedars/junipers, and several of the hard woods....fire salvaged ones too.


Cedar is one of the worst, IMO, as it has a high amount of silica in the bark. You can see the crystals in the cedar I was carving with a chainsaw not long ago...it sure looks nice though...


deeker said:


> Keep us posted...and with pics....or it did not happen.


I'll definitely have some pics as I get things going, no worries there...


----------



## TraditionalTool (Feb 12, 2010)

*The plot thickens with a slight disappointment in Cook's Saw...*

You might imagine my surprise as my Sawmill and Woodlot magazine arrived yesterday, and as I'm browsing through it, I notice a Cook's Saw ad in the centerfold of the magazine, bottom half of both sides of the center.

The ad is for Cook's Saw being in business for 40 years.

Wouldn't you know, Cook's is advertising bandsaw blades at $0.11 per inch for 1 1/4" x .042 DELIVERED. Well, this warranted a call to Cook's saw as I just got an email from Marcia stating she couldn't ship my order Parcel Post and it was going out UPS, but with the Lumber Calculator book ($8.95) my order was $220.70.

Here's the disappointment. I was told that you must buy 20 blades in order to get the discount. But nowhere in the Cook's ad is there a statement that you must order 20 blades. Of course I question it, and was told she needed to go talk to the person who put the ad in the magazine. He verified to her that it was in fact for an order of 20 blades minimum. I tried to explain to her that this is wrong, you can't advertise in a national magazine without stating there is a minimum quantity, and claim that there is after the fact!

But I was told that, it is their policy...Well, at least I wasn't told that I couldn't cancel my order for 10 blades at $175 plus shipping...so my order went from $220.70 (10 blades plus the Lumber Calculator book) to 325.75 for 20 blades plus the Lumber Calculator book.

I'm a bit disappointed in Cook's Saw for such a mishap, and more disappointed that they would not honor the advertised price for the 10 blades I was originally ordering. The good news is the price of my blades went from $17.50 + $5.00 shipping per blade to $15.84 including shipping, and that is quite a difference in price, IMO.

If you are buying blades from Cooks, don't forget to mention the Sawmill and Woodlot ad, the prices are here just in case you don't happen to subscribe to the magazine:

$0.11 per inch for 1 1/4" x .042 DELIVERED
$0.1275 per inch for 1 1/2" x .042 DELIVERED
$0.1275 per inch for 1 1/2" x .050 DELIVERED

Please tell them there is no minimum QTY in the magazine ad either, just to dig it in to them. (but I bet they will require a 20 blade order at minimum ).


----------



## Backwoods (Feb 12, 2010)

One thing about it having 20 new blades, plus what the mill came with, will put you in a good position with your saws. When you get 10 that need sharpened you will still have some to use until they get back. 
Just be glad that you are not running 184” saws.


----------



## TraditionalTool (Feb 12, 2010)

Backwoods said:


> One thing about it having 20 new blades, plus what the mill came with, will put you in a good position with your saws. When you get 10 that need sharpened you will still have some to use until they get back.
> Just be glad that you are not running 184” saws.


Yeah, it will work out ok, and I found a place about 1 1/2 hours north of me in the wine country that sharpens them. Probably spend more on wine if I go up there...lol He said if I take my blades up there he can sharpen them while I wait, but having the extras is good as you point out, I could just send him 10 or 15, UPS is cheap when it's local.

I talked to deekers tonight, I can't believe they banned him from here... He's a pretty easy going guy, nice guy on the phone to, I spoke to him a bit earlier.

The only thing I'm kinda upset about is that Cook's told me the ad in Sawmill and Woodlot magazine requires you buy a minimum of 20, and nowhere in the ad does it state that. If I really wanted to press it I think they would need to honor the pricing on a smaller order, but it's not such a big deal. Since the magazine just came out, I'm certain they will change their position after more people call.


----------



## Typhoon (Feb 17, 2010)

I use the Cooks Super Sharps exclusively, and also have a Cooks Cat Claw sharpener. I love the blades, and I can generally get about 10 sharpenings out of them before I pitch them. The sharpener is also top notch. The man reason I went with Cooks is the customer service. They are great and there when you need them. The cat claw sharpener was well worth the $ by the way. I know it's not cheap, but man is it built to last, and built in the USA!!
-Brad


----------



## TraditionalTool (Feb 18, 2010)

Typhoon said:


> I use the Cooks Super Sharps exclusively, and also have a Cooks Cat Claw sharpener. I love the blades, and I can generally get about 10 sharpenings out of them before I pitch them. The sharpener is also top notch. The man reason I went with Cooks is the customer service. They are great and there when you need them. The cat claw sharpener was well worth the $ by the way. I know it's not cheap, but man is it built to last, and built in the USA!!
> -Brad


Brad,

I know the cat's claw sharpener and setter is top notch, I've heard from others as well...I'd love to get one some day, but it's just not in the cards right at the moment, but if I was to get some work that might change. There's a guy not far from me that has the cat's claw sharpener, setter, and a band roller, so I can get my blades resharpened from him in the meantime.

I see you have similar as I do, orange saws and an orange sawmill...Orange goes good with orange! 

What type of wood do you cut mostly?


----------



## 1947wdx (Sep 4, 2010)

Bumping this thread as I'm interested in how your Cooks blades are running. I'm looking at either the Cooks, or a set of the Woodmizer blades for my Hud-Son mill.


----------



## deeker (Sep 4, 2010)

After over four and a half years of bandsaw milling, my first 10 choices for blades are Cook's. 

Have used Norwoods ( WAY over priced ) woodmizer, over priced too.

And a few others.


----------



## 1947wdx (Sep 5, 2010)

deeker said:


> After over four and a half years of bandsaw milling, my first 10 choices for blades are Cook's.
> 
> Have used Norwoods ( WAY over priced ) woodmizer, over priced too.
> 
> And a few others.



Haven't seen prices for Norwoods, but right now for my mill, I see


Cooks: $163.10 + $34.51 shipping for 10 blades = $19.71/blade
Woodmizer: $247 + $12 shipping for 15 blades = $17.27/blade

So they are comparable for my mill. Is there much difference in cut/longevity?


----------



## TraditionalTool (Sep 6, 2010)

1947wdx said:


> Haven't seen prices for Norwoods, but right now for my mill, I see
> 
> 
> Cooks: $163.10 + $34.51 shipping for 10 blades = $19.71/blade
> ...


If you read above you'll see that I got the Cook's Super Sharps for $15.84 including shipping, and that was shipping all the way to Cali.


----------



## 1947wdx (Sep 6, 2010)

TraditionalTool said:


> If you read above you'll see that I got the Cook's Super Sharps for $15.84 including shipping, and that was shipping all the way to Cali.



Yeah, I saw that. Wasn't sure if that promotion was still going on however. I'll have to call to see..


----------



## conchwood (Aug 18, 2012)

*Blades*

I have been using Cooks supersharp since they first came out with them and thats almost all I use on my mill. I do have a super resaw blade that I use when resawing dried nailfree wood and am thinking of trying one of those colbaltized blades for wood with nails as I hate changing blades everytime I get a hardware laden log.



TraditionalTool said:


> Been having a hard time figuring out what type of blades to use on my LumberMate. I see mixed reviews on most of the brands I was looking at, Cooks Super Sharps, Lenox Woodmaster Cs, and Simonds RedStreak...
> 
> My mentor highly recommended the Cooks Super Sharps, but has only used one on his sawmill, and said it cut beautifully. The reason he's not using them is that his sharpener doesn't have the proper cam for the Cooks Super Sharps, so has been using Lenox.
> 
> ...


----------

