# The Logosol M8 Chainsaw mill looks like a real possibility - whats not to like?



## soundforest (Apr 28, 2012)

This is my first post on this site. It seems to be the most proactive when it comes to CS milling so I thought I would transfer my post here. Looking foreward to any responses:

I've been researching M8 (M7 no longer available) "woodworkers" version. With the limited skid roads on my property , I need to be able to go to the tree, not bring the tree to the mill, a lot of the time. I'll mainly be milling alder, which as many of you know, even 12" dia ( at least in the NW) is fairly good sized tree. I should add I'm mainly milling for my own use, initally.

I have been pretty impressed with what I've seen (videos) & heard talking with Bailey sales rep. With that said & going on the assumption a lot of you know what this mill is I wonder why this CS mill isn't praised more. Seems like all CS mills are lumped together as "sweat mills", kerf wasting, slow mos. I don't see those charactoristics in the videos: You work at a comfortable height, you don't push the saw thru, easy method for setting thickness, with big enough saw & Logosol thin-kerf bar, the mill cuts at a decent speed. The Bailey rep said with that set up the board won't need much planning to achieve flatness. (Of course a lot depends on the drying process). BTW they recommend using cooking oil with a emulsifier as chain oil when milling.

As far as getting the log up on the mill, if need be, I can use my Portable rope Logging Winch. (I should write about it sometime - I never hear it mentioned in any of the wood working forums ).

Anyone care to comment on the Logosol M7 or M8 compared to other portable units out there?


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## mad murdock (Apr 28, 2012)

How much does the M8 sell for? Do you already have a 70+cc saw for the mill? If you add up cost of a new saw and the m8 new, you will prolly be close to the price of an entry level band mill(lt10, Norwood, or some such other entry level). The milling production will be much more satisfactory. -just sayin'. I have not used a logosol, tho they look very nice. I have a Alaskan mkIII, and so far have milled with my husky 372xp, barely enough power for a CSM IMO. Can't wait to get the 075 going to mill with more hp.


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## soundforest (Apr 28, 2012)

As I mentioned I have to go to the tree. I have limited skid roads on my property, and prefer to keep it that way. So I've been looking at what would be the best approach which wasn't going to be a continual back breaker. Since I'm getting near "retirement " age speed is not a key aspect. As to saw size do I really need a 660 to mill Alder 12" or less in dia.?

The M8 sells for about $2800. The Stihl saws I have are
magnum 441, 032 & 034




mad murdock said:


> How much does the M8 sell for? Do you already have a 70+cc saw for the mill? If you add up cost of a new saw and the m8 new, you will prolly be close to the price of an entry level band mill(lt10, Norwood, or some such other entry level). The milling production will be much more satisfactory. -just sayin'. I have not used a logosol, tho they look very nice. I have a Alaskan mkIII, and so far have milled with my husky 372xp, barely enough power for a CSM IMO. Can't wait to get the 075 going to mill with more hp.


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## mad murdock (Apr 28, 2012)

Your 441 should do nicely. Do you have any big leaf maple on your place? I have not milled any yet, but am going to try some this spring. I do like how the logosol has the deck/bed so you can fairly easily square a log into a cant or just live saw. It would definately be easier than the Alaskan mill. I have come up with methods and accessories to go with my setup making it much easier tho. You will be pleased with your results. It is quite a satisfaction making your own boards


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## BobL (Apr 28, 2012)

soundforest said:


> Anyone care to comment on the Logosol M7 or M8 compared to other portable units out there?



If you are looking for less work and you don't have mechanical assistance, IMHO moving a small CSM to a log is always going to be less work than moving just about any log onto a logosol type mill.

CSM does not have to be backbreaking.


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## rmount (Apr 28, 2012)

I have an M7 (full size) and am very happy with it. I am retired and mill for my own/friends/family use. Don't do a lot of milling, one year did 1500 bf, usually less than 1000 bf and some years none at all. I have no problem loading logs to the table using a set of ramps and a cant hook, can easily manage 16"-18" diam myself, beyond that its nice to have help - either human or mechanical. I use a MS660 with a 16" or 24" bar. For your 12" alder the 441 will probably be fine, just take it easy. I don't really understand wanting to take the mill to the log though. You need a bigger trail to get the mill through the bush than you would need to get your logs out, a trailer with the mill on it is considerably wider, taller and longer than a 12" log in a skidding arch. In my experience the M7 works just like they show in the videos, easy, straightforward, reliable - but definitely. more money than an Alaskan.











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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 28, 2012)

Your logs will be under 12" and you worry about logging trails?? That's not much log to move! Even a smaller ATV will easily move a 12" log.

A entry lever BSM is so much cheaper to own, so much quieter and easier to use, so much faster with a lot less waste too. You will soon figure out EASY ways to get those small logs out! And, you don't need much room for a small BSM either...

A Honda 4 stroke will outlast two chainsaw motors milling lumber! (probably more than that!)

Better run both a bit BEFORE you make a final decision!

SR


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## soundforest (Apr 28, 2012)

I should clarify "bringing the mill to the tree". For years now a key to my one man logging "operation" has been my Portable Logging Winch. It does not use cable but rope ( With a breakpoint of approximately 4200 lb (1900 kg) for 3/8'' (9.5 mm) and 8100 lb (3674 kg) for 1/2'' (13 mm)). I use a skid cone and snatch blocks & pulleys as needed. I've pulled 24" logs more than 400' with very little forest floor damage. I can carry the setup any where. It took a couple of years refining approach for efficiency but it works really well for me. The point is that I intend to move the logs to a suitable location for the CS mill. The Canadian company which sells the winch setup is Portable Winch Capstan Winch 4x4 Winch Off-Road Winch Tree Service Rule Gas-Powered Winch . 

I guess one of the things I like about the M8 is minimal set up in the woods. Correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like you don't have to adjust / level it to the log, just roughly level to the ground. 

Thanks for the feedback so far.......


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## Dave Boyt (Apr 29, 2012)

I've had good luck with the M7 Woodworker's mill. My Husq 372 was a little light, but the mill itself is lightweight and easy to set up. Mine spent years out in the weather with no noticeable effect. Make sure it is well supported. Level is not critical. Also keep an eye on the winch ropes, and replace them every year, or when they show signs of wear. I wouldn't want to put much more than a 14" diameter log on it. It makes a great platform for chain saw milling. I used mine for several years before moving up to a Norwood band mill.

Rmount, it looks like a great setup you've got!


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## rmount (Apr 29, 2012)

Soundforest: Your plan with the winch sounds good. It is quite easy to setup, and I suspect the "woodworker" is easier. You're right, it does not need to be level to the log, just firmly in place. If it must be unlevel try to keep the starting end of the cut high lengthwise so you're cutting downhill and the loading side of the table low widthwise so that it doesn't try to tip over when you roll a log onto the table. 

Dave: Thanks, I like the set-up - it's fairly close to the house and I can just putter away when I have free time. Log size shouldn't be much of an issue, I have cut up to 26" x 8' and up to 20" x 16' and I know there are some who have cut much bigger than that.






660 with 24" bar


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## soundforest (Apr 29, 2012)

Rmount
Concerning the 660 are you using the Logosol thin kerf bar. Viewing the size of your logs, would you say it cuts at a decent rate. By that something like a slow steady walk? Has the 660 ever bogged down? I ask these questions because of remarks about "wearing " out chainsaws. I haven't run across any Logosol CSM videos where it seems like a lot of effort is going into energy to move the saw through the wood. It goes without saying sharp chain, well-tuned CS is a given.


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## rmount (Apr 29, 2012)

Both my 16" and 24" bars are thin kerf. I have never had the 660 "bog down", it will slow down a little if you hit a big knot but you can "feel" the pressure needed and quickly adjust your rate. When cutting wider boards it cuts at a slow walking pace, cutting 6" boards (one at a time) or edging you can move fairly quickly, actually faster than you can wind the spool. When taking the outer slabs off a 26" log it can be more like a slow death march. But, this is for two or four cuts only - then you are dealing with an 19" or so cant which only needs one or two quick cuts to turn it into board width cants and your speed picks up. Most of my experience is with softwoods, for me that would be white/red pine, hemlock or poplar. It slows a little in hardwoods (birch, sugar maple) but I still find it an acceptable speed for hobby cutting. And you're right, a sharp chain and well maintained saw always work best.

I have never actually timed a cut but I did find these two pics of a 12" sugar maple I was cutting a live edge slab from (3" thick) to use as a mantle. The time stamp on the first is 1:49 and on the second 1:50. I think that was a 9 or 10 foot log.











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## big mog (Apr 29, 2012)

here in the UK I use my M7 most days of the week, milling everything from small(6"-8"dia), up to 24"+dia hardwoods, i have no problems with it at all, with the new M8 you even get the loading ramp supplied as part of the mill. Using the thin kerf logosol bar and chain setup your only going to loss 1/4" in the cut, and once you get the mill dialled in, hard spots and knots dont cause the bar to deviate(unlike your band mills!) get your sharpening up to speed and you can almost use the boards straight off the mill, its never going to be as quick as a big band mill, but its a lot more versitile, how many band mills do you know thatyou can fit a planer head to?.
Ive got jobs over here purely on the fact that most sawmills are to large to take onto site, how many band mills can be loaded ont the roof of your average family station wagon, get baileys to set you up with a demo, or contact logosol direct, they have operators in the US who will demonstrate for you, you wont go back once you see and try one for yourself
good luck and happy milling


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## soundforest (Apr 29, 2012)

I did notice the loading ramp built in on the M8. And since you mention it, the USA distributor did say that he has seen boards come off the mill as smooth as glass.....




big mog said:


> here in the UK I use my M7 most days of the week, milling everything from small(6"-8"dia), up to 24"+dia hardwoods, i have no problems with it at all, with the new M8 you even get the loading ramp supplied as part of the mill. Using the thin kerf logosol bar and chain setup your only going to loss 1/4" in the cut, and once you get the mill dialled in, hard spots and knots dont cause the bar to deviate(unlike your band mills!) get your sharpening up to speed and you can almost use the boards straight off the mill, its never going to be as quick as a big band mill, but its a lot more versitile, how many band mills do you know thatyou can fit a planer head to?.
> Ive got jobs over here purely on the fact that most sawmills are to large to take onto site, how many band mills can be loaded ont the roof of your average family station wagon, get baileys to set you up with a demo, or contact logosol direct, they have operators in the US who will demonstrate for you, you wont go back once you see and try one for yourself
> good luck and happy milling


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 30, 2012)

big mog said:


> once you get the mill dialled in, hard spots and knots dont cause the bar to deviate(unlike your band mills!) get your sharpening up to speed and you can almost use the boards straight off the mill, its never going to be as quick as a big band mill, but its a lot more versitile, how many band mills do you know thatyou can fit a planer head to?.



Same can be said of a dialed in BSM with GOOD bands, hard spots and knots will NOT cause the band to deviate. As for adding a planer head: there's NO problem adding a planer head. Norwood/Logosol has one that goes right on the track of of a BSM. Also a moulder too, so you can mill cabin logs right in place.

Now, how about that noise, all the extra gas and oil you use? And extra wear on powerheads compared to a BSM?? Those are BIG considerations when milling.

SR


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## Dave Boyt (Apr 30, 2012)

Looks like a BSM vs CSM thread going here. It was bound to happen sooner or later. It is ok to prefer one over the other, as long as the information is correct. I have, and still run both, using each as a tool to do the job it is best suited to. Rob is right about band mill cutting straight. A correctly aligned mill with a sharp blade cuts straight (including hedge) and smooth. The people who don't get it right give band mills a bad reputation. I never understood the concept of planing on the mill, since the boards will warp and cup somewhat while drying and need to go through the planer anyway. Might be helpful on beams, though. Thin kerf, time and operating expense favor the band mill. Time required to set up a Norwood band mill is comparable to setting up an M7.

On the other hand, the Logosol is lower investment, and a good way to get started. I ran one while I was finding the markets for custom cut wood. I still use a chain saw mill on the occasional log that exceeds the 34" capacity of the Norwood. I can see that you might squeeze a CSM into a tighter spot, but I've never had to do it.


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## gemniii (May 1, 2012)

soundforest said:


> I should clarify "bringing the mill to the tree". For years now a key to my one man logging "operation" has been my Portable Logging Winch. It does not use cable but rope ( With a breakpoint of approximately 4200 lb (1900 kg) for 3/8'' (9.5 mm) and 8100 lb (3674 kg) for 1/2'' (13 mm)). I use a skid cone and snatch blocks & pulleys as needed. I've pulled 24" logs more than 400' with very little forest floor damage. I can carry the setup any where. It took a couple of years refining approach for efficiency but it works really well for me. The point is that I intend to move the logs to a suitable location for the CS mill. The Canadian company which sells the winch setup is Portable Winch Capstan Winch 4x4 Winch Off-Road Winch Tree Service Rule Gas-Powered Winch .
> 
> I guess one of the things I like about the M8 is minimal set up in the woods. Correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like you don't have to adjust / level it to the log, just roughly level to the ground.
> 
> Thanks for the feedback so far.......


I'm getting into a similar situation. As most might have read I've got several hundred acres on which I want to maintain trails, food plots, etc. 

I plan on bringing my Woodmizer LT10 down trails, set up in a location central to my tree source, mill away.
I'll get the trees to the mill site with my little 23hp tractor. Logs that exceed my tractors capacity I plan on using an Alaskan to get them down to size.

The LT10 sits on 4x4's and the heaviest part is the mill head.





I need a hoist or my tractor FEL to put the head on by myself.

But once on it makes pretty good lumber easily.





I went thru a long process of deciding what I wanted, needed, would pay for. I originally wanted a Hud-Son Oscar 18 rebranded by Harbor Freight and sold for about $1700 with coupons. However HF switched mfg and I couldn't get a report of anyone actually using one, plus the price went up to $2,500 w/o coupon. Meanwhile Woodmizer kept their LT10 price down to $3,000 (now $3,800).

The LT10 breaks down rather easily to a package I can move with my tractor and pallet forks. 





So I plan on it being a movable solution, rather than trying to drag a trailered mill thru the woods. I'll set up mill a lean to for it and process what I need in the area.

For your situation soundforest, with trees only about 12" DBH I probably would go with an Oscar 18 (they are on closeout at Hud-Son) because they are a much lighter build, but I would invest the $200 in an Alaskan type CSM because that can always come in handy.


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## soundforest (May 1, 2012)

This has been a good discussion, as I have found myself doing more in depth critical thinking about my timber handling, how it has evolved and the challenges the lay of the land and limited access roads present. Till now all my logging has been for firewood purposes. I'd drag cables to the log and attempt to drag them out to the skid road with the tractor. That was only partially successful, even with block and tackle. A friend who has about the same acreage told I should develop a network of skid roads and trails. Maybe in one respect he's right but it seems like a major effort of time and money both of which have been in short supply.

Then I discovered the logging winch system I described early. I could then drag just about anything out to a skid road. I would still drag the logs to the cutting area but it required hitching, unhitching the logs sometimes 2 or3 times in order to make the road turns, sometimes cutting down the log length. All in all I went through a lot of experimentation & found hauling the logs to the skid road then cutting the firewood right there, throwing the wood into the pickup worked best for me.

Given the way accessability is, portability of the mill is important as is ease of setup as I may be moving it just after a day's milling. Also I already know from wood splitting I want to keep bending over minimal for the sake of my back.


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