# Alaskan Mill to build a shed and work shop



## Bruiserx2 (Dec 11, 2009)

I learned about this site from the Tractorbynet site. Both are so informative. I ended up buying a Kubota BX24 from the info I received there and am very happy. So I am planning on doing my research hear and purchasing a mill. I am a weekend warrior at this point in my life as I now have a desk job. So here is the deal. I want to build a small two story shed from the wood on my property. The bottom for my tractor’s and top for a shop. 90% of the wood is red oak. I am thinking of buying the Alaskan Mill. 

The largest chainsaw I have is a Husky 371. From everything I’ve read it is too small for the 36 inch model and I should either get a bigger saw or a smaller mill. My dilemma is if I buy the smaller mill and love doing this then I will want to upgrade. The 24 inch model will handle the majority of the logs I have. If the diameter of the log is around 24 inches will the saw be ok in the lager mill.


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## mtngun (Dec 11, 2009)

Congratulations on the Kubota. That'll come in handy.

I'm doing something similar myself, milling wood for a barn/shed with an Alaskan. It's not practical by most measures but I take pride in building with wood I milled myself. That said, let me say that, if, for the sake of argument, you want to be practical about this, you'd probably be better off logging the trees yourself, skidding them to a convenient site, and then hiring a portable bandmiller to come and mill the trees for you. It probably wouldn't cost any more than what you'd lay out for an Alaskan setup and it would be much easier and faster.

But, getting back to your question --- what type of construction, timber frame, or stick ? (is it even feasible to stick frame with red oak -- I dunno since there is no oak in my neighborhood). 

If you are thinking timber frame, then I'd suggest a Granberg mini-mill. The mini-mill is easier to set up for cutting beams than an Alaskan. Your 372 could run a mini-mill, though you might want more power (who doesn't ?).

An Alaskan's forte is cutting live edge slabs. The slabs are usually later "edged" into boards. An Alaskan mill can be used to make beams, but it takes longer to set up and it's challenging to make a perfectly square beam with an Alaskan. An Alaskan generally "requires" a 90+cc saw. 

It's not just the size of the log that determines the size of the mill and saw. Yesterday I was cutting a 19" fir with a 36" Alaskan and a 99cc saw, and I wished I had more power. Milling takes more power than cross cutting, and it is relatively slow. No matter how fast your saw cuts, you'll wish it cut faster.

There is no right or wrong answer to your question, there are several ways to accomplish your goal, depending on your preferences.


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## Mike1974 (Dec 11, 2009)

If you're serious about chainsaw milling, get a bigger saw. The productivity difference with a bigger saw is huge.

The smallest you would want in a husky would be a 385xp or a 395xp. I'm a Stihl guy myself, and use a 660 - which is about the equivalent of the 395.

Given the money you will save on the materials alone, the big saw will more than pay for itself.

I use a logosol, not an Alaskan, so others would have to chime in on recommendations specific to Alaskan.

The general advice I see around here is to always go with the auxiliary oiler, and with as big of a mill as you might possibly need, because you can adjust a larger mill down in size.


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## BobL (Dec 11, 2009)

mtngun said:


> If you are thinking timber frame, then I'd suggest a Granberg mini-mill. The mini-mill is easier to set up for cutting beams than an Alaskan. Your 372 could run a mini-mill, though you might want more power (who doesn't ?).



I would get my first stripe with the 372 and the minimill.

After that be prepared for anything!


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## gemniii (Dec 13, 2009)

Bruiserx2 said:


> I learned about this site from the Tractorbynet site. Both are so informative. I ended up buying a Kubota BX24 from the info I received there and am very happy. So I am planning on doing my research hear and purchasing a mill. I am a weekend warrior at this point in my life as I now have a desk job. So here is the deal. I want to build a small two story shed from the wood on my property. The bottom for my tractor’s and top for a shop. 90% of the wood is red oak. I am thinking of buying the Alaskan Mill.
> 
> The largest chainsaw I have is a Husky 371. From everything I’ve read it is too small for the 36 inch model and I should either get a bigger saw or a smaller mill. My dilemma is if I buy the smaller mill and love doing this then I will want to upgrade. The 24 inch model will handle the majority of the logs I have. If the diameter of the log is around 24 inches will the saw be ok in the lager mill.


Welcome aboard -
I'm another referral from Tractorbynet, I've a B7610 
The only advantage of the smaller mill is a slight weight and price reduction.
I won a JD CS62 here (62cc, 4.7hp) and bought an Alaskan MarkIII 36", ripping chain and a 28" bar from Bailey's. 

There is only a small chance my combo would be able to saw 24" of softwood, let alone red oak.

However it has done well on 18" wide red maple.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=1827566&postcount=239

However if I finally get my act togeher and buy a MS660 or 880 w/ 42" bar I might be able to mill 36".

So get the big one, or check out the panther.

You might need a bigger saw later, and also a bigger tractor


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## Bruiserx2 (Dec 13, 2009)

I am sure once I get into this I will want a bigger saw, hence the idea of buying the 36 even though my saw is a little small for it. I figure $200 plus to get started and probably $2000 3 months later. And I agree you can never have to big when it comes to toys.

By the way gemniii it was your post that got me into this crazy idea, or at least the final push.


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## gizmo285 (Dec 15, 2009)

I have a Husky 385 and an Alaskan mill. I had it for a while but just started using it. It is a lot of work but sure feels good to look down the slabs that you just cut!!


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## gemniii (Dec 16, 2009)

Bruiserx2 said:


> I am sure once I get into this I will want a bigger saw, hence the idea of buying the 36 even though my saw is a little small for it. I figure $200 plus to get started and probably $2000 3 months later. And I agree you can never have to big when it comes to toys.
> 
> By the way gemniii it was your post that got me into this crazy idea, or at least the final push.


Don't go blaming it on me!
And be careful on the final push, make sure you keep it at the same angle if you are not using rails.


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## STLfirewood (Dec 16, 2009)

If you have the bucks I would go for a bandsaw mill. I skipped the alaskan mill and went right to a woodmizer. There are trees that chainsaw mills can do that I can't. But for making lumber my little LT15 is pretty fast. I found it used with a siding lapper for 3k. 

Scott


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## Bruiserx2 (Dec 17, 2009)

Since I have a tractor, BX24 24 hp I believe 17hp or 18hp out the back. Is there a mill that attaches to the rear pto of a tractor, or would run off its hydraulics?


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## mtngun (Dec 17, 2009)

I'm not aware of a store-bought PTO driven mill.

But I've seen a few home made units, rusty old things using a big circle saw.

Not sure how much power is required for a circle saw but 18 hp doesn't sound like a lot.


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## gemniii (Dec 18, 2009)

STLfirewood said:


> If you have the bucks I would go for a bandsaw mill. I skipped the alaskan mill and went right to a woodmizer. There are trees that chainsaw mills can do that I can't. But for making lumber my little LT15 is pretty fast. I found it used with a siding lapper for 3k.
> 
> Scott


For the OP's situation (1 lot, trees all in one place) an LT15 for $3K would probably be great, if he can store it.
An Alaskan could get him started, but he'd still need another $500 to $1,000 for a bigger saw.
To me the GREAT advantage of the Alaskan is portability.
Example prices I was looking at:
Alaskan ($200) plus bar and chains ($100) plus 660 saw ($500 to $1,000) compared closely to getting a used mill, but I required maximum portability - I need to be able to put it in my FEL.


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## gwiley (Dec 18, 2009)

*pole barn*

I decided on a pole-barn construction for our horse barn/tractor storage/workshop b/c it is one of the simplest, cheapest ways to go. If you use something like perma-columns to keep the pole out of the dirt then you don't need treated poles. The perm-column is essentially a steel U bracket that receives the pole and is welded to steel set in concrete. Another advantage is that in many states you don't need a building permit if it is a pole barn and you intend to use the structure to house livestock.

The various state agricultural extensions have a pile of free plans for pole barns and other structures - just google for "agricultural extension free building plans"

The "beam machine" or a mini-mill will be perfect for getting the main 6x6 beams done - and you can get away with pine or other lesser grade wood if they are isolated from the dirt.

I recommend that you rethink a second story shop. Consider all the heavy tools/material that you might need to handle - do you really want to lug it up stairs? On the other hand, maybe you are planning on building an elevator  My knees aren't what they used to be which made me opt for a first floor shop in spite of having to expand the buildings footprint.


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## rigginslinger1 (Dec 28, 2009)

*Alaska Mill*

I have seen many houses,barges ,wanigans,docks,beveled siding,garages,docks and boats built with only a Alaska mill.Couple of main things that help-leveling beams to start the cant,ripping chain, helper handle for the longer bars with oiler tank for extra oil,wedges and routine bar maintainance. Good ripping chain is the secret. Many things built in SE Alaska,POW island outside of Ketchikan Alaska that I have seen over the years up there.

Put this site in bookmarks awhile back-found it again-alot of knowledge and school of hard knocks info here-great job.


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