# Let's talk lanyards: Who makes their own?



## tree md (Feb 1, 2010)

It has come time for me to replace my wirecore flipline and I have a bunch of extra snaps. I am planning on making my own lanyard out of some old safety blue that I have around. I have made several buck strap type lanyards before but I am wanting to try to make something with a prussic cord adjuster and maybe use a VT on it. 

Anyone making their own? 

Got any pics?


----------



## irish93stang (Feb 1, 2010)

I made one with a distel for a hitch and a micro pulley to advance it


----------



## tree md (Feb 1, 2010)

Got any pics?

I've got a spare micro pulley as well as a couple of small boat swivel snaps that I could use.


----------



## irish93stang (Feb 1, 2010)

let me upload it hold on


----------



## tree md (Feb 1, 2010)

Thanks!


----------



## irish93stang (Feb 1, 2010)

did this work?


----------



## tree md (Feb 1, 2010)

Yep sure did. I've got everything I need to make one and try it out!


----------



## tree md (Feb 1, 2010)

irish93stang said:


> did this work?



Just curious, what length of HRC did you use for your distel?


----------



## tr33thri11s (Feb 1, 2010)

Try doing a search for lanyard. DEDA is one of the coolest going now. I found it on here and fixed myself one up and it works sweet. Props to the guys who share info with everyone.:yourock:


----------



## irish93stang (Feb 1, 2010)

it was short im thinkin like 26" i know my climbing distel is a 30" beeline and the hrc was shorter..... only thing i need to change on my lanyard is the length of rope i may make it a 30 footer works great for positioning


----------



## irish93stang (Feb 1, 2010)

i have a steel core cable line with a microcender also works great


----------



## tree md (Feb 1, 2010)

irish93stang said:


> it was short im thinkin like 26" i know my climbing distel is a 30" beeline and the hrc was shorter..... only thing i need to change on my lanyard is the length of rope i may make it a 30 footer works great for positioning



Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. That's why I wanted to make my own so I could have a long one for positioning.

I have a steelcore with a microcender as well. I just need to replace it because I cut it by accident and have bare cable showing. :jawdrop:.


----------



## irish93stang (Feb 1, 2010)

electric tape is ansi compliant!!! lol the microcender works good grabbing rope too


----------



## oldirty (Feb 1, 2010)

hey man. get the isc swivel biner. hold on there was a recent thread with a pic from ghillie let me find it.


edit. thread is "prussic for flipline adjuster" post 47 ghillie put up a pic. i run more or less the same thing (minus that black cordage and different prussic cord). slick.


----------



## irish93stang (Feb 1, 2010)

cant take all the credit for the lanyard OTG showed me the setup and supplied the cordage


----------



## tree md (Feb 1, 2010)

oldirty said:


> hey man. get the isc swivel biner. hold on there was a recent thread with a pic from ghillie let me find it.



I got one on my wirecore flipline that I plan to cannibalize and use when I replace my old one. 

Still wanna see the pics though. Give me a link to the thread if you find it. I want to check out one of Ghillie's lanyards that I had in mind. 

Thanks bud.


----------



## oldirty (Feb 1, 2010)

OTG is a good dude for sure.


----------



## irish93stang (Feb 1, 2010)

yup yup he just spells his first name wrong lol


----------



## oldirty (Feb 1, 2010)

tree md said:


> I got one on my wirecore flipline that I plan to cannibalize and use when I replace my old one.
> 
> Still wanna see the pics though. Give me a link to the thread if you find it. I want to check out one of Ghillie's lanyards that I had in mind.
> 
> Thanks bud.



name of the thread is "prussic for flipline adjuster" post 47 has the pic. i dont know how to link a damn thing man. sorry.


----------



## tree md (Feb 1, 2010)

oldirty said:


> name of the thread is "prussic for flipline adjuster" post 47 has the pic. i dont know how to link a damn thing man. sorry.



Cool I'll find it. Thanks!


----------



## Blakesmaster (Feb 1, 2010)

oldirty said:


> name of the thread is "prussic for flipline adjuster" post 47 has the pic. i dont know how to link a damn thing man. sorry.



The picture wouldn't show on my 'puter. Oh well. 

Here's a pic of the one I made md. New England Hi Vee with a retired beeline prussic and old micro. Works real slick.


----------



## tree md (Feb 1, 2010)

Yeah, that looks pretty slick Blakes.

OD, that is the pic I was thinking about. Just wish I could splice like Ghillie. Oh well, I guess a double fisherman will work just as well..

I've got all kinds of snaps, swivels and odds and ends to play around with. I plan to just play around with different setups and see what tickles my fancy.


----------



## Blakesmaster (Feb 1, 2010)

*Something to think about.*

If you don't have spliced eyes on your prussic you may want to terminate the knots straight to your D ring. I've seen guys do it that way as well. Personally, I like using the tri-action 'biner so if I want to take it off for whatever reason I still can. I never do...but I could if I wanted to.


----------



## tree md (Feb 1, 2010)

Blakesmaster said:


> If you don't have spliced eyes on your prussic you may want to terminate the knots straight to your D ring. I've seen guys do it that way as well. Personally, I like using the tri-action 'biner so if I want to take it off for whatever reason I still can. I never do...but I could if I wanted to.



Yeah, I have 3 or 4 triple action biners. I'm sure I can play around and make something work.

Thanks for the tip.


----------



## outofmytree (Feb 2, 2010)

My offsider is playing around with the same set up. Man it is hard to believe I resisted the change from mechanical rope grab to prussik lanyard for so long. Great set up!

You guys ever think about using a maillon rapide instead of a biner for the link? Slower to take on and off but then its slower to take on and off...... If you get my drift. :biggrinbounce2:


----------



## ozzy42 (Feb 2, 2010)

outofmytree said:


> My offsider is playing around with the same set up. Man it is hard to believe I resisted the change from mechanical rope grab to prussik lanyard for so long. Great set up!
> 
> You guys ever think about using a maillon rapide instead of a biner for the link? Slower to take on and off but then its slower to take on and off...... If you get my drift. :biggrinbounce2:



I use a maillon rapide [some people calls it a maillon rapide,I calls it a screw link.hruu huumm] to tend slack on my lanyard.

Works as good as any pulley ,at a fraction of the cost.


----------



## SINGLE-JACK (Feb 2, 2010)

tree md said:


> It has come time for me to replace my wirecore flipline and I have a bunch of extra snaps. I am planning on making my own lanyard out of some old safety blue that I have around. I have made several buck strap type lanyards before but I am wanting to try to make something with a prussic cord adjuster and maybe use a VT on it.
> 
> *Anyone making their own?
> 
> Got any pics?*



Double Ended, Double Adjusting (DEDA) Lanyard based upon some development work by Tom Dunlap and TheTreeSpyder. It's essentially two lanyards "joined" around the back. 

*Double Ended, Double Adjusting (DEDA) Lanyard*




Virtually all the lanyard length is available to either side. A more versatile alternative to two separate lanyards - uses less hardware.

*DEDA LANYARD END DETAIL*




Rope Snap
21' of 7/16" Sterling HTP
TFL's with thimbles on Snaps
Distel Friction Hitch
9mm Sterling Accessory Cord
DFL's on Distel hitches
3/8" SS Clevis safety wired
... secures & tends Distel hitch
All rope ends dipped in Plasti Dip
All loose ends seized


----------



## Blakesmaster (Feb 2, 2010)

That looks like a whole lotta extra loops of stuff to hang up with no improvement on a two lanyard setup. You could very easily use a rope snap and a 'biner ( or a clevis if you like a more permanent attachment ) on two separate lanyards with no additional equipment. I won't even climb with two lanyards. My climb line will work as a second one if I see the need.


----------



## SINGLE-JACK (Feb 2, 2010)

Blakesmaster said:


> That looks like a whole lotta extra loops of stuff to hang up with *no improvement *on a two lanyard setup.  You could very easily use a rope snap and a 'biner ( or a clevis if you like a more permanent attachment ) on two separate lanyards with no additional equipment. I won't even climb with two lanyards. My climb line will work as a second one if I see the need.



My apologies for not making an obvious "improvement" a little easier to understand. You, certainly, deserve some more rep for being an HA, but, alas I had already done so, too much. Anyway, it's NOT my idea - I respect Tom Dunlap's work way too highly to find any fault with it - in fact, I've incorporated it and found it extremely beneficial. But ... each to his/her own ...


----------



## Blakesmaster (Feb 2, 2010)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> My apologies for not making an obvious "improvement" a little easier to understand. You, certainly, deserve some more rep for being an HA, but, alas I had already done so, too much. Anyway, it's NOT my idea - I respect Tom Dunlap's work way too highly to find any fault with it - in fact, I've incorporated it and found it extremely beneficial. But ... each to his/her own ...



I read in your first post who came up with the concept, no need to reiterate. I still don't see any benefit whatsoever in the design. It's an addition of gear that is unnecessary for a production arborist. A neat concept, sure, but not practical.


----------



## Blakesmaster (Feb 2, 2010)

There's gear for those that climb for their job...






and gear for those that talk about climbing like it's there job.






see the difference?


----------



## Blakesmaster (Feb 2, 2010)

lol


----------



## lync (Feb 2, 2010)

I would shy away from terminating my lanyard prussic directly to my hip ring
Almost daily I find myself shifting the beaner that has the prussic to my bridge, and using it as a second climbing line. Those hip rings put a lot of weight on your back and kidneys when the lanyard is holding a lot of your body weight. Letting the seat take some of the weight is much more comfortable.


----------



## tree md (Feb 2, 2010)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> Double Ended, Double Adjusting (DEDA) Lanyard based upon some development work by Tom Dunlap and TheTreeSpyder. It's essentially two lanyards "joined" around the back.
> 
> *Double Ended, Double Adjusting (DEDA) Lanyard*
> 
> ...




Pretty slick looking setup there. I have been learning from Kenny and Tom for many years now. Tom's brother Jim has been a big help and has a wealth of knowledge as well.

I climbed on one or two of those old weaver's for many years. Still have an old wore out weaver hanging up in the shop. They didn't make them so comfortable when I started out though. The wide padded back was a huge improvement.


----------



## SINGLE-JACK (Feb 2, 2010)

tree md said:


> *Pretty slick looking setup there. *I have been learning from Kenny and Tom for many years now. Tom's brother Jim has been a big help and has a wealth of knowledge as well.
> 
> I climbed on one or two of those old weaver's for many years. *Still have an old wore out weaver hanging up in the shop.* They didn't make them so comfortable when I started out though. The wide padded back was a huge improvement.



Thanks! That Weaver's pretty new but still have my first. It's even got some hemp laid rope still on it - yeah, I'm that old ... only climb when I want, now ... this new setup is working well for me.


----------



## 1I'dJak (Feb 2, 2010)

I've got the steel core prussik on a double end 15' steel core...but I still use my macrocender... nothing beats it for pure speed... you can pound up the tree and suck tighter as you're going up...no stopping...whistlin up the tree till the legs give or you hit a branch.. But you gotta take out the little springy deal that keeps the tension ...on that's the key...


----------



## SINGLE-JACK (Feb 3, 2010)

*A tip from an old timer*

*Blakesmaster -*

*With sincere respect for you and your work: 
If you really want to show off, you've really GOT to get some higher quality pictures with some clean gear.*



Blakesmaster said:


> ...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



*see the difference? * It shows respect for the OP and the Forum.

*Here's another example:*



Blakesmaster said:


> lol



*What? ... are you standing at 10 ft?
... any groundie could be standing there 
... hell, my grandson could be standing there. *

Come on, we know you can do better. It would have been much more impressive if you had posted a picture of you working the crown from earlier in the day; with high, frontal sunlight - sky in the background. Like this:

(if you look close, it's the same tree in that close-up you posted of me at 60'+)





*see the difference? * No big deal, just more impressive than a 'stump shot'

You're definitely a professional with important ownership responsibilities in your business. Your image is a big part of your business and career. Good photo's and civility are a big part of your image. 

I sincerely hope you will accept this as friendly and constructively helpful. You can have the last post - if you must. But, I'm through posting. We've derailed this thread enough. 

*MY APOLOGIES TO TREE MD!*

With highest regards,
Jack


----------



## Blakesmaster (Feb 3, 2010)

Point taken for disrupting the thread, sorry 'bout that, md. 

My point to you, SJ, had a lot more to do with dirty gear and sub par pics than you realize. You are right that they don't appear that great as a selling point to customers but that wasn't what I was going for. A production climber has dirty gear because he uses it and photos are generally an afterthought not the main goal. But let's talk about that lanyard of yours.

TheTreeSpider is a published author in our industry as I assume Tom Dunlap is as well ( I've sure heard his name kicked around enough ) and I have no reason to disrespect their work and can only assume they know a hell of a lot more than me about my profession. Their names attached to a product will get me to look closer at it but their assessment of said product will not be the sole basis of my assessment. I look at the piece of equipment and form my own opinions based on my personal experience and what I know that my profession demands of it's gear. So let's have a look again.






You claimed in your first post about this set up that it " uses less hardware " than two separate lanyards. However this lanyard uses two rope snaps, two clevises, two friction hitches and a very long piece of rope. A conventional lanyard set up uses two rope snaps, two 'biners ( or you could put clevises there if you want it permanent or even tie your lanyard to the D rings for more permanence and even less hardware ) , two friction hitches and some rope. One could very easily make 2 lanyards out of a 21 foot piece of rope so we'll not count that as additional gear on a two lanyard set up. Not to mention that the rope that you loose behind your back is not part of the "workable" length of the lanyard. Assuming that stretch of rope behind your back is about 24 inches you essentially lose that amount of line. Boom. Added weight. 

Now, the one benefit you did mention was that "virtually all lanyard length is available from one side." This indeed is a good benefit. With this set up you can have one lanyard very long and one very short which would be helpful in some positioning situations but it begs the question why not just carry one long lanyard and one short lanyard with you on the climb? They weigh less, as I already outlined, and it gives you the option of leaving one on the ground if unneeded on the climb. 

And my final point...loops, loops, loops.

As any production climber will tell you getting stuck on a branch or nub is a frustrating, annoying and downright dangerous situation. The more loops you have the more chance you have for them to catch on something. A loop of lanyard hanging down on your saw side is sure to entangled with your saw at some point during the climb. I've had webbing loops slip around my feet from time to time when twisting and stretching for a certain position. I've had loops from my saw lanyard hang up on nubs and stop me mid swing. The list can go on and on about how loops of rope can get in the way of an efficient climb. 

So, in closing, I've determined that your two so called benefits are not realistically beneficial and moreover, the entire design is a hazard to a productive tree climber.

THE END


----------



## pdqdl (Feb 3, 2010)

Two lanyards would come with 4 snaps (total). I think that is the point SJ was making.

I think hiding the extra length of rope from the "2nd lanyard" on both sides of the belt would be a pretty big advantage if you were just using one lanyard. A real long lanyard does get in the way when you are not using it.

Conversely, if you could combined two lanyards into one, it might be possible to keep a longer lanyard available through the combination than you might prefer to carry otherwise.

I haven't yet tried out the system pictured, but I plan on it when I finally get some work to do. I haven't even started my chipper for 2 months. NOTHING to do but starve or shovel snow.


----------



## tree md (Feb 3, 2010)

pdqdl said:


> Two lanyards would come with 4 snaps (total). I think that is the point SJ was making.
> 
> I think hiding the extra length of rope from the "2nd lanyard" on both sides of the belt would be a pretty big advantage if you were just using one lanyard. A real long lanyard does get in the way when you are not using it.
> 
> ...



My thoughts exactly. I'd like to have a long lanyard to use when applicable but it would more than likely be on the ground for most of my climbs. I could see it being a real benefit to have in a tree where you could throw it up in an overhead limb for a particularly long limb walk. I can't see it replacing my wirecore flip line or climbing line though. Would also be cool to have when you are working a really big spar.

I have been lucky enough to do at least 1 job a month since November but it has been a slow Winter for sure. It has been better than last Winter though. I am lucky to have referrals and a large condo complex to take care of. They always have something for me to do. Now is the time to play around with stuff like making lanyards and whatnot. Also a great time to try new techniques (if the snow ever melts) or continuing your education. 

I am reminded of the first year that I did tree work. I spent that Winter camped out in a Jayco pop up camper living off of deer meat and fish that I caught. Me and the guy I worked with lived outdoors all Winter. We read books for entertainment. It always gets tough in the Winter time even when you do put a little something back. Most will never get rich and this work is not for the faint of heart. But there is always the Spring. Things should start picking up this month after folks have time to recover from their Christmas spending.

Hang in there and Best of luck all.


----------



## ozzy42 (Feb 4, 2010)

Blakesmaster said:


> Point taken for disrupting the thread, sorry 'bout that, md.
> 
> My point to you, SJ, had a lot more to do with dirty gear and sub par pics than you realize. You are right that they don't appear that great as a selling point to customers but that wasn't what I was going for. A production climber has dirty gear because he uses it and photos are generally an afterthought not the main goal. But let's talk about that lanyard of yours.
> 
> ...



:agree2:
I'm with Blakes on this one for the same reasons he
mentions:anything that can snag,eventually will. Don't like anything hanging on the same side as saw.A waste of 2ft of rope.

And one more thing to add.I don't like the idea of both ends being the same color and looking identical.With 2 seperate lanyard,they can be of different colors so as to quickly identify while working.No room for OOPS 60 ft in the air.

Somethings can be over engineered.
Just my .02 worth.


I will however give the workmanship an A++ for all connections knots,and use of thimbals.


----------



## outofmytree (Feb 4, 2010)

Im gonna give this rig a thorough workout and let you all know how it runs. 

Full time work and full time climbing all sorts of trees big and small so we will see what we will see. 

Oh and Blakes, if you are seriously worried about carrying 24 inches of rope you need some more protein in ya diet!


----------



## Blakesmaster (Feb 4, 2010)

Each individual lanyard I use has only one rope snap and a 'biner holding the hitches to my Ds. So there is only 2 rope snaps total.

My problem with "hiding" an extra length of lanyard on each side is that it forms a loop which I've already established my hatred of.

You do bring up a very good point, pdq and md. If you have two separate lanyards and one very long one you would be less likely to carry the long one up with you and you could get into an unforeseen situation where it would be beneficial to have. With this lanyard combo you always have it with you regardless. 

We've all been in that situation up in the tree where you wish you'd have brought that one extra thing and had to either fight through without or have a groundie run and get, either way it hampers production but mostly is just a pain in the ass. But that is still a 6 in one, half dozen in the other situation. We have also all had climbs where we brought a piece of kit we didn't end up using and it got in the way. I think it comes down to your individual climbing style. I'm a minimalist at heart and like to take as little as possible aloft, while others, as I was demonstrating with SJ's pic prefer to take everything and the kitchen sink topside. 

And OOMT, lol, I was just makin' a point about the added weight. I'm not concerned that 2 feet of rope will affect me, I was just illustrating that SJ's set up did not reduce equipment, but in fact, added some. If I ever get to the point where a few extra ounces keeps me from climbing, please, just shoot me.

My main issue with this setup is that it marries you to extra gear that will only be useful a small percentage of the time. In most cases a combination of good placement of your climbline and attachment of one short lanyard will comfortably get you anywhere you want in the tree.


----------



## outofmytree (Feb 5, 2010)

oke:


----------



## canopyboy (Feb 5, 2010)

While it stays on the ground for removals, for pruning I often take up my double/motion lanyard. I'll try to take a picture and post if anyone cares enough, but it's 45' of velocity, tight eyes spliced both ends, two prusiks, two biners, two slack pulleys. Fits in a small bag that clips on the back of my harness when needed.

Basically it works like a lanyard and short climb line, that can you alternate ends on. I find I can move the tree very quickly and efficiently with it compared to repositioning my TIP on a longer climb line. Deadwooding a big (100+ ft) oak, I can SRT up to 80' and then skip around the canopy with the lanyard. When I'm done I reattach to the main climb line and come back down.

As noted by Blakes, the one downside is the loop, but I've learned to manage/live with it.


----------



## tree md (Feb 5, 2010)

canopyboy said:


> While it stays on the ground for removals, for pruning I often take up my double/motion lanyard. I'll try to take a picture and post if anyone cares enough, but it's 45' of velocity, tight eyes spliced both ends, two prusiks, two biners, two slack pulleys. Fits in a small bag that clips on the back of my harness when needed.
> 
> Basically it works like a lanyard and short climb line, that can you alternate ends on. I find I can move the tree very quickly and efficiently with it compared to repositioning my TIP on a longer climb line. Deadwooding a big (100+ ft) oak, I can SRT up to 80' and then skip around the canopy with the lanyard. When I'm done I reattach to the main climb line and come back down.
> 
> As noted by Blakes, the one downside is the loop, but I've learned to manage/live with it.



Yes, by all means post some pics. I'd like to see it myself.


----------



## Blakesmaster (Feb 5, 2010)

I'd like to see pics of that, CanopyBoy. A long lanyard/short climbline combo that is easily attached and removed is a great idea for positioning without changing your TIP.  Sounds like you designed it so your hardware is easily removed as well? This would be great if using a throwline to get that next crotch, but I could be imagining it wrong...


----------



## voxac30dude (Feb 5, 2010)

does a 4 coil prussik work good with 5/8 3 stand flip


----------



## oldirty (Feb 5, 2010)

tree md said:


> Yes, by all means post some pics. I'd like to see it myself.



i like pics.




Blakesmaster said:


> A long lanyard/short climbline combo that is easily attached and removed is a great idea for positioning without changing your TIP.



that deda flipline setup does look like a whole lotta business going on but i bet it would be the bomb for an all out rec climb. 

hey blakes. a 15+ft (not too much past 20) rope flipline is the way to go. bundles up real easy for storage and is great for that extra tip when you making your moves. your going to use your climb line as a second lanyard anyway right? that fliplin i use now is great for 2nd TIP when i am pruning a tree.




voxac30dude said:


> does a 4 coil prussik work good with 5/8 3 stand flip



4 coil prussic sucks for easy moving under pressure little man. all you got is the 5/8th strand though?

think about using some tail end of your climbing line or something for a flipline. i know you new to the climbing game but a big fat heavy flipline isnt going to really make any difference. put a nice tri action biner on the dead end with a scaffold knot and get a micro pulley* so that when you do tie your prussic knot for the flipline you can advance it easily.

*regarding micro pulley. there are a bunch of threads going on about the flipline and how to adjust them. micro is easy but cost you. you can use a few different ideas that are running around as we speak.

you dont need the 4 coil for what you up to. if you want i am even willing to send you a piece of beeline 10mm that i run. i'll even tie it up for you and it will be set to my preferred length for the distel. 

good luck with it.


hey canopyboy. how that 2hunge treating you?


----------



## Blakesmaster (Feb 5, 2010)

oldirty said:


> that deda flipline setup does look like a whole lotta business going on but i bet it would be the bomb for an all out rec climb.
> 
> hey blakes. a 15+ft (not too much past 20) rope flipline is the way to go. bundles up real easy for storage and is great for that extra tip when you making your moves. your going to use your climb line as a second lanyard anyway right? that fliplin i use now is great for 2nd TIP when i am pruning a tree.



I don't doubt that it'd be a fun toy to sling around the tree on a rec climb and I love setting up unique applications when I do that but when I'm getting down for production I like to keep things simple and sleek. I am planning on making a nice long lanyard for big removals. Up till now I always just used my climb line as a flipline on the occasional monster, either that or set a line and SRT up to where I can work on my gaffs and flip. I think I'll refrain from affixing rope snaps or anything permanent to it. Probably splice the ends neatly and use 'biners so I can get it in and out of crotches, and use it like a short climbline in tandem with my main one. Any ideas on finding a 'biner/snap combo? I'd like something that opens easily like a regular snap does but I'd need an opening on the other end to slide my splice on? Any thoughts guys?


----------



## canopyboy (Feb 6, 2010)

Blakesmaster said:


> I'd like to see pics of that, CanopyBoy. A long lanyard/short climbline combo that is easily attached and removed is a great idea for positioning without changing your TIP.  Sounds like you designed it so your hardware is easily removed as well? This would be great if using a throwline to get that next crotch, but I could be imagining it wrong...








Blakes, you've got it I think. One biner holds the hitch and the eye of the lanyard AND clips to my saddle. Hitch never comes off the biner, but the eye can be slipped off and over/off a branch quickly and easily. And yeah, I do use it usually in conjunction with my throwbag.






The hitches and the pulleys are almost brand new, I think I've used them like twice. Before I actually had 3/8 ultratech, and I'm thinking of switching back. The pulleys are staying. I started with a double Blake's hitch set up first though. Blake's with velocity on velocity is the worst though.

Back to the original post, here was a pick of my last regular lanyard when it was fresh off the splicing table.


----------



## canopyboy (Feb 6, 2010)

oldirty said:


> i like pics.
> 
> hey canopyboy. how that 2hunge treating you?



Haven't had a job since I got it. Test drove it in the woods behind my house and had it on the shelf in the barn since. Hoping for better fortunes this spring/summer -- as all y'all are too I'm sure.


----------



## canopyboy (Feb 6, 2010)

Blakesmaster said:


> Any thoughts guys?



All I can think of is a spliced eye and a biner. Not that much worse than a snap to attach with, removes to keep out crotches, and you don't get much simpler.


----------



## Blakesmaster (Feb 7, 2010)

canopyboy said:


> All I can think of is a spliced eye and a biner. Not that much worse than a snap to attach with, removes to keep out crotches, and you don't get much simpler.



Not much worse, no, and I'll probably go that route. I looked through the offerings at sherrill and couldn't locate exactly what I wanted either. Oh well. 

Can you install and remove those FS devices on your lanyard fairly easily?


----------



## canopyboy (Feb 8, 2010)

Blakesmaster said:


> Can you install and remove those FS devices on your lanyard fairly easily?



Sorry for the slow reply, been with and without power for a couple days and had a 1/2 mile of snow (24-30") to remove to get to the main road.

To answer your question - fairly easily. The spliced eye jams in them a bit, I've yet to have the FS stay stuck in the tree when I pull the line back. But I can pull them apart in my hands if needed. To put them back on, I need to drop the end of my throwline down the FS, then pull the line through. 

The FS is made from a bit of flexible conduit (vinyl? coated metal). The rubbery outside grips the trees and the rope slides on the metal inside quite nicely with a decent bend radius. As low friction as anything else I've tried except a pulley. Got the idea from the rec climbing community, although I shortened em up a lot.


----------

