# Straight Draw Knife Sharpness



## HomesteadRed (Apr 10, 2016)

I recently picked up an Ironton 13" Straight Draw Knife for debarking some logs on the property. I haven't spent much time with it yet, but the blade is sharpened on a single side and a single edge. How sharp should this edge be? About how often or use (in feet) should you be sharpening or paying attention to the edge of this type of blade? 

Just for side data, I mostly have Hemlock, Maple, Oak, Walnut, Birch and Beech trees on the property. There are plenty of others, but these would be the species I deal with on a daily basis.

Also, thank you in advance to any responses. This is my first post on these forums.


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## ANewSawyer (Apr 10, 2016)

Go to Bladeforums and ask in the "axe, tomahawk and hatchet" sub forum. Those people will give you a real answer.

I will put an answer here because you asked here: I would say as sharp as you can get it. And it should be a higher polish om the edge. What do you have to sharpen with? Stones, files, diamond plates, etc.

Make sure you don't start beveling the backside that is flat. It should be flat from the factory and it probably won't be.


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## HomesteadRed (Apr 10, 2016)

Thank you ANew.. I have a dremel with stones and blade filers. Also have hand files and sharpening stones and wands. I didn't even see the blades sub-forum, so I thank you for that reference. I plan on building a forge over the next few months and will probably spend a decnt amount of time in there for that.

Yes, I saw that it is single-side single-edge blade. Do you use a polish or oil after sharpening?


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## rageej (Apr 10, 2016)

If you have the time and are willing...

Get yourself a piece of glass large enough to lap with but narrow enough to fit in between the handles when lapping the top.

Tape a fairly coarse piece of sand paper to it.

Dry or wet lap until surface is even on both the top and bottom. When working on the top apply pressure to the blade itself not the handles, this will help in maintaining the cutting angle. Holding the handles will allow you too much leverage and likely produce an uneven or contoured bevel.

Once both sides have been lapped check for a consistent and even burr along the edge, it should only be detectable on one side. This should already be the case but if not continue sanding, alternating sides every so often until you have a consistent burr.

Switch to a finer grade sand paper and begin sanding the side with the burr until your grit markings on the blade show the finer grit. Do the other side in the same manner.

Continue this process working your way to finer and finer grits, always checking to make sure you have an even burr.

Depending on how dedicated you are there are many options to hone or polish. 3M sells lapping tape, polishing tape and other options. There is always honing compound and a leather strap. A cost effective way is to use a very fine grit or small micron car polish. I would prefer polishing tape but all of these produce similar results.

Honing or polishing a cutting edge removes the burr, resulting in an extremely sharp edge, and extends the life of that edge... it stays sharper longer. One thing to be mindful of is maintaining the same angle throughout the process.


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## dancan (Apr 11, 2016)

If you're just peeling bark it doesn't need to shave .
As you work the tool and the wood you will get a feel for where it needs to be .
The bark slips off of wood cut spring real easy getting tighter as the seasons progress , cut your branches off as close to the log as you can because the stubs will slow you down and be the reason you'll want to learn keep the drawknife sharp with a stone and for quick touchups .
Too fine of an edge will fail when draw knifing off the stubs .







Happy peeling


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## HomesteadRed (Apr 11, 2016)

Good stuff. Thank you dancan. I will peel away. I have been playing with it on trees/branches from all kinds. Oak, Tulip, Maple, Hemlock so far. I thank you for the seasonal advice as well. I guess I should cut as much as I can right now.  Weather gets nicer starting tomorrow.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Apr 11, 2016)

Too sharp is a waste of time. The first knot or bit of dirt will dull it instantly. It's peeling bark, not shaving your back.


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## HomesteadRed (Apr 11, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> Too sharp is a waste of time. The first knot or bit of dirt will dull it instantly. It's peeling bark, not shaving your back.


Guess i need some back shaving lessons too.  As a pale redhead, with no back hair, that would also be a waste of time.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Apr 11, 2016)

HomesteadRed said:


> Guess i need some back shaving lessons too.  As a pale redhead, with no back hair, that would also be a waste of time.



My brother is hairy. He was doing missionary work in Colombia a few weeks ago and people kept walkin up to touch him. Haha. They had some Spanish name for him that meant to the effect of "lots of back hair"


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## jr27236 (Apr 12, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> My brother is hairy. He was doing missionary work in Colombia a few weeks ago and people kept walkin up to touch him. Haha. They had some Spanish name for him that meant to the effect of "lots of back hair"



That's not what they were saying lol
They were saying they found saquatch lol


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