# Jack Hammer wood splitting?



## boltboss (Nov 12, 2010)

Hello. New to this forum and looking forward to participating.

I have been heating with wood for three years and I cut and split all of our wood by hand using a 6# splitting maul. In most cases I do not miss having a log splitter as I feel it is easier to walk up to the logs and split them than it is to carry the logs to the splitter. I also think the maul is faster since the cycle time of most splitters appears to be rather slow.

This year we had to cut down a huge (42" across) white oak tree that was storm damaged and threatened to come down on our house. I killed me to cut down that beautiful old tree but we had no choice. I have been working around the rounds splitting away as much as I can but these rounds are just too much in some cases. If I purchase or rent a splitter (horizontal or vertical) I will still need to muscle the rounds to the splitter which leads to my question.

Has anyone here ever tried using an electric jack hammer to split large rounds of hardwood? I have read that the better jack hammers will break up 6" concrete so they are clearly serious tools but I wonder if they can split the wood using a wide chisel bit or will it just bury itself in the wood. The advantage of the jack hammer is that I could take it to the logs and split them where they lay. Since I deposited all of the rounds next to my pole barn using my loader I will have electricity available to power the jack hammer.

Any ideas, suggestions, experiences are welcome and helpful before I just go rent a jack hammer and try it.

Thanks!

JN


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## Pulp Friction (Nov 12, 2010)

What a great idea! I'll be following this thread for sure!

Oh, and welcome to the board.


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## mdotis (Nov 12, 2010)

*I would use the saw to quarter them*

I would lay them on there side and use the saw to cut them into quarters. This is called noodling. It works very well and is fun. Just watch so the saw does not get plugged with the long chips called noodles. If you do a search you will see many pictures and even a few videos of people doing this. You do not always have to cut all the way through them just part of the way then the maul will work better as well. Good luck and enjoy the heat. Oh and welcome to the forum.


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## boltboss (Nov 12, 2010)

Korey,

Thank you for suggesting noodling. That's a great (and common sense) idea and I will definitely keep it in mind and likely use that technique. I'm still thinking of trying the jack hammer as well since I'm one of those that gets an idea in my head and can't let go. I'm hoping someone here has strong enough experience and reasons why it will or won't work that I won't have to experiment, but I probably will. :monkey:

Pulp fiction,

If we can't find someone here that has tried this (it seems to me someone must have) I'll just have to rent one and try it myself. Get ready for some amusing U-Tube videos.

JN


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## mga (Nov 12, 2010)

interesting idea, but, you'd have to put a splitting wedge on the end. the narrow chisle of a jack hammer would most likely just sink into the wood.


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## mdotis (Nov 12, 2010)

*Video*

I cannot Wait to see the video.


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## taylor6400 (Nov 12, 2010)

I used to run a jackhammer (well, air hammer) on a paving crew sometimes...talk about suck. I think it would be more work than swinging a maul. They are very heavy to lug around. Plus you either need to drag aorund a cord or an air hose (and have a huge compressor in that case). Its work...a lot of work to lug them around and take the beating that they give you. Worst job i ever did on a rain out day was to get into the bed of a dump truck in the Ohio heat and humidity and hammer out hardened asphalt. Probably lost 30 lbs in 30 minutes. 

Other than that, i think if you get the largest bit you can it would work. Get something like a 3" spade, i would think the duller/more nicked up the better, and something called an asphalt wedge which will be narrower, but more wedge shaped. I just dont think thats the easy route at all...I would much rather noodle...


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## Pulp Friction (Nov 12, 2010)

Anyone ever try an auger bit and then drop in an M80??:hmm3grin2orange:


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## boltboss (Nov 12, 2010)

Taylor,

Thank you for that insight. I agree with you that bit would tend to stick in the log unless it is used to spiral around the outside of the log splitting off thin pieces much the same way one would go about splitting with a maul. I also agree that one will want to choose a wide angled bit. Maybe someone should consider marketing a log splitting bit (if there is a chance of developing a market for it).

You make a good point about the weight of the jack hammer itself. I have never used one so there is the novelty attraction at work here but I can understand how that could get old in a hurry. And you're also right that a jack hammer would not be practical up in the woods where there is nothing to plug into. 

Noodling is sounding better and better here, but I may still need to exhibit how stubborn (my wife calls it stupid) I can be. 

JN


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## husky455rancher (Nov 12, 2010)

plus if you noodle it you have an excuse to buy a big ass saw for doing it!


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## gandrimp (Nov 12, 2010)

husky455rancher said:


> plus if you noodle it you have an excuse to buy a big ass saw for doing it!



We have a winner,,,,,,,tell the man what he has won!!!!!!!!!


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## gandrimp (Nov 12, 2010)

gandrimp said:


> We have a winner,,,,,,,tell the man what he has won!!!!!!!!!



Oh yah I forgot to add I dont think it will work,,,,,,, but I would watch the video.


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## Rudedog (Nov 12, 2010)

I wonder if a jackhammer would be effective in wood as it is in concrete. The wood would absorb the blow/cutting much better than concrete. You would probably be a YouTube first though.


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## branchbuzzer (Nov 12, 2010)

What I want to know is, what happens if the bit sticks in the wood? I imagine a jackhammer has plenty of giddyup, and that force has to go somewhere, right? Would you get bounced up and down a la Wile E. Coyote in a Looney Tunes cartoon? Please enlighten me...

One nice thing about mauls - they usually ( black gum! ) only go one direction


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## boltboss (Nov 12, 2010)

OK. Now I get the impression that you guys are going to stick around this thread strictly for the entertainment value. I've already confirmed that the wife will be busy attending to her craft show booth tomorrow, I've got rental prices from several companies, hmmmmm. I need to see if I can recruit some assistants at this short notice including a cameraman. Of course they are predicting rain tomorrow so there is that to consider.

There is still time for someone to talk me out of this madness, but I'm getting the feeling that most of you are salivating waiting to view the video.....

JN

Darn - wife just looked over my shoulder - she said 'no'. OK - that's one vote.


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## cedarman (Nov 12, 2010)

Weld a wedge to the end of the chisel and I bet it WOULD work.

Jack hammer'n sucks though. I busted up a 40x40 concrete floor. not fun.

very loud. very heavy. hard work


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## boltboss (Nov 12, 2010)

> what happens if the bit sticks in the wood?



I guess I would have to return the log along with the jack hammer to the rental company. 

JN


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## cedarman (Nov 12, 2010)

boltboss said:


> I guess I would have to return the log along with the jack hammer to the rental company.
> 
> JN



buy a chisel and weld the wedge to it!!!!!!! the concrete chisel will burry in most cases.

im thinking it would work.


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## boltboss (Nov 12, 2010)

I realize that a jack hammer is heavy and would not be fun to use all day long. I would be resorting to this only to work with the rounds that won't split easily with the maul. Once the big stuff is busted up I would go back to splitting normally. I understand what you are saying about the bit getting stuck and I'll need to check into purchasing a chisel to modify into a wedge. 

JN


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## taylor6400 (Nov 12, 2010)

cedarman said:


> buy a chisel and weld the wedge to it!!!!!!! the concrete chisel will burry in most cases.
> 
> im thinking it would work.



The concrete chisel for sure wont do it. It will bury itself. The welded wedge idea would work for sure. But, I think the large spade or asphalt wedge would work un modified. I split a piece of wood with a spud bar once...why? Because I happened to have a round and a spud bar in one place once. It worked...with a lot more work than a maul. But now i can say i have done it. I think you should rent it and try it. For sure with video. 

You just dont know how punishing a jackhammer is until you have used one...and especially on concrete. If you rent one of course make sure you can get the biggest you can (man-code), and not a sissy roto-hammer or demolision hammer! If nothing else running a jackhammer makes you feel like a man. Similar to large saws.


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## jags (Nov 12, 2010)

This question was asked many moons ago on either this site or the other one, and I think the results were very poor. Much stickage, much energy, not alot got done if my memory serves correct.

But hey, I'm always up for a new youtube


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## bushmaster (Nov 12, 2010)

i also dont think it will work, the bit is going to get stuck in the wood, and be impossible to get out unless you stlit the wood manauly to get your bit back.

now if your going to rent the jackhammer why not just rent a splitter?


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## branchbuzzer (Nov 12, 2010)

boltboss said:


> OK. Now I get the impression that you guys are going to stick around this thread strictly for the entertainment value.



Who, us??? We are men of SCIENCE.



boltboss said:


> Darn - wife just looked over my shoulder - she said 'no'. OK - that's one vote.



Yeah, but she's not a registered voter in this election. Besides, she'll never know......right? 



boltboss said:


> I guess I would have to return the log along with the jack hammer to the rental company.



Make sure you charge them for the free firewood.


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## branchbuzzer (Nov 12, 2010)

bushmaster said:


> now if your going to rent the jackhammer why not just rent a splitter?



Well, what fun would that be?


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## boltboss (Nov 12, 2010)

> now if your going to rent the jackhammer why not just rent a splitter?



I need to fail miserably with the jack hammer so I can justify the log splitter to the wife, of course!

JN


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## CountryBoy19 (Nov 12, 2010)

taylor6400 said:


> I used to run a jackhammer (well, air hammer) on a paving crew sometimes...talk about suck. I think it would be more work than swinging a maul. They are very heavy to lug around. Plus you either need to drag aorund a cord or an air hose (and have a huge compressor in that case). Its work...a lot of work to lug them around and take the beating that they give you. Worst job i ever did on a rain out day was to get into the bed of a dump truck in the Ohio heat and humidity and hammer out hardened asphalt. Probably lost 30 lbs in 30 minutes.
> 
> Other than that, i think if you get the largest bit you can it would work. Get something like a 3" spade, i would think the duller/more nicked up the better, and something called an asphalt wedge which will be narrower, but more wedge shaped. I just dont think thats the easy route at all...I would much rather noodle...




They do make gas jack-hammers, my dad has one. It's Pionjar (milsurplus). They're considered the best gas jack-hammer money can buy. IIRC, 56 lbs is the weight, and that machine will really do some big-time work.

I'll have to take a round home for thanksgiving and give it a try, I'll let you guys know how it works.


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## boltboss (Nov 12, 2010)

> I'll have to take a round home for thanksgiving and give it a try, I'll let you guys know how it works.



Now we're getting somewhere! I can't wait to find out what you learn. A gas jack hammer sounds like one of those 'must have' tools for Christmas this year. 

If this technique works what will we call it? Noodling may be effective but it doesn't have a manly ring to it - as in 'I spent the entire weekend in the woods noodling'. Let's see - I think calling it 'jacking wood' would raise some eyebrows. 'Pounding wood' doesn't sound much better. 'Ramming wood'? Naw! How about..... hmmmm.... Darn, I got nothing.

JN


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## crashagn (Nov 12, 2010)

Heck i got a electric hammer @ about 60lbs. Even got a electric pole out by the wood pile. Ill give it a try but I will have to wait when everyone is gone or they will think Ive gone all out looney. I could probuly tack weld a wedge onto the wide bit i hardly use. I could see it "might " work on dry rounds but cant see it working on green wood.. Ill try it though...


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## boltboss (Nov 12, 2010)

> Ill try it though...



This is starting to get fun! Geez.... if it rains tomorrow I may be the only guy around not out running a jack hammer on firewood. Hammer on!

JN


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## CountryBoy19 (Nov 12, 2010)

boltboss said:


> A gas jack hammer sounds like one of those 'must have' tools for Christmas this year.
> 
> JN



Well, you're not getting a Pionjar unless it's used. They don't import them anymore because of emissions (they're huge 2-stroke engines). Most places that have one hang on to them until they die, or they're completely abused. When dad was looking at the one he bought we did some research and you would typically find them around $1500-2k in absolute abused condition. Dad ended buying his at a military surplus auction in nearly new condition for $450. Made out like a bandit on that deal. The only downside was that it only came with one bit, and bits are expensive, he still hasn't bought any others for it.


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## STLfirewood (Nov 12, 2010)

Let me save you the trouble. Don't bother. I tried this with a skid steer breaker. I had a a big wedge welded to a breaker point. The breaker would split straight grain stuff you could easily do with a maul. If you hit something with a knot it would just bounce the machine up and down. Even with full weight of the machine on it. You have to remember that wood with absorb a shock. Concrete is brittle and will crack and break. I though it would be the greatest thing since sliced bread. It was a waste of time. 

Scott


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## Chris Crouse (Nov 12, 2010)

I think a lot of folks have failed to realize the gent said ELECTRIC jackhammer. Perhaps I'm in the wrong, but I've never seen a sizable electric. That takes the cumbersome out of the equation.

My vote is it would work if it had the power to run a monster maul sized wedge welded to a shank, which I doubt an electric could. Heck maybe even a big pneumatic couldn't hammer that much weight.

I agree the run of the mill bit would just embed.


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## CTYank (Nov 12, 2010)

mdotis said:


> I cannot Wait to see the video.



Lead-in on the video should not be "Now watch this."

Too DarwinList-esque.


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## STLfirewood (Nov 12, 2010)

Here is a link to pictures of the splitter I did. 

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=54134&highlight=hydraulic+breaker

Scott


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## boltboss (Nov 12, 2010)

> the gent said ELECTRIC jackhammer



Chris, had to go back through the posts to realize you were referring to me. Can't remember anyone ever referring to me as a gent, Thanks! I'm thinking you are probably right on target with your other observations though.



> Lead-in on the video should not be "Now watch this."



I was thinking more along the lines of "here, hold my beer".

JN


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## boltboss (Nov 12, 2010)

Scott,

I checked out your pics. Man, even if that didn't split wood well who cares? That thing has got to be the best thing ever designed for storming castles! 

I give you an A+ for trying.

Thanks for sharing.

JN


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## jags (Nov 12, 2010)

STLfirewood said:


> Here is a link to pictures of the splitter I did.
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=54134&highlight=hydraulic+breaker
> 
> Scott



THATS the one I was trying to remember. Thanks for posting that (back) up Scott.


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## Wife'nHubby (Nov 12, 2010)

boltboss said:


> "....they are predicting rain tomorrow so there is that to consider...
> Darn - wife just looked over my shoulder - she said 'no'. OK - that's one vote.




Personally, I'm waiting to see you holding an umbrella, jackhammering in the rain...

....waitin' for the video! 

Shari


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## Taxmantoo (Nov 12, 2010)

Pulp Friction said:


> Anyone ever try an auger bit and then drop in an M80??:hmm3grin2orange:



Black powder instead. 

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Kldc_R9yfmQ?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Kldc_R9yfmQ?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>


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## bowtechmadman (Nov 12, 2010)

Black powder is definately the ticket!!! That's an awesome vid.


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## some zilch (Nov 12, 2010)

i tried to bust up a crane mat (a bunch of 12x12 inch hardwood beams laced together to give a crane a stable platform to put its tracks on) with a pretty large (10000 pounds or so) hydraulic hammer on an excavator. it broke it up, but more beat it to pieces, and mangeled everything to bits more than split anything.......


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## bullseye13 (Nov 12, 2010)

Take your chainsaw and cut a slit in the wood at the outer edge of the round, right in line with any natural crack in the round. Pound in a wedge on each side, should split it no problem. I do it frequently, i dont like noodling with the saw, kinda hard on it i think. I slit the edge and have it split faster with a wedge and sledge than with a chainsaw, even a big one. If you have a big digging bar, they are handy to pry open cracked pieces with a wedge stuck in them.


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## Stealth (Nov 12, 2010)

I dont think it will work, even with a wedge welded on.
I dont think the stroke length from a jackhammer is sufficient for wood. The trick to breaking concrete is to almost vibrate through it with lots of relatively small repetitive impacts. Wood splits based on fewer, slower but more forceful/deeper impacts.
You dont really split concrete and you dont really break wood.

Just my thoughts anyways.


I hope you do try this out, b/c I like Mythbusters type entertainment, but whatever you do, plz where safety equipment. Would hate for you to have the jackhammer bounce back into your face or something and loose a tooth.


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## double7 (Nov 13, 2010)

*jack hammer wood splitting*

the wedge have to be a one piece steel no welding will hold the pneumatic hammering for long time tempered steel can not be weld very good dont ask how i know hi hi


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## boltboss (Nov 13, 2010)

> I dont think the stroke length from a jackhammer is sufficient for wood.



Stealth,

I think that you have a very good point and it has occurred to me too. I have never used a jack hammer but I imagine that the stroke length is set and there is no way to extend it. The fast short strokes might drive the bit deep into the wood without striking a splitting blow. It's a good chance that one might spend more time releasing the stuck bit than splitting wood.

JN


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## BlueRidgeMark (Nov 13, 2010)

boltboss said:


> I need to fail miserably with the jack hammer so I can justify the log splitter to the wife, of course!
> 
> JN





Okay, I have to revise my opinion, and offer an apology.


I was thinking this guy is an idiot, but I was very, very wrong!


He's a genius! And he's one of *US*! :hmm3grin2orange:



Seriously, though, boltboss, I, too, predict it won't work, but I'll be glad to watch the video.

But remember, we won't be laughing WITH you! We'll be laughing AT you! 


And we just might petition the moderators to change your username to "jackhammer". 



Noodle them, or get a few wedges. Cut a kerf about 3" into the face of the round, and get to work with a maul.




(Oh, and I wasn't really thinking you are an idiot.  )


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## boltboss (Nov 13, 2010)

> He's a genius! And he's one of US!



Mark,

Thank you for the upgrade. With rain predicted today and with a long list of hiney-do's (oooops - I meant to type honey-do's but I guess you need to do one to get the other :hmm3grin2orange I won't be renting and playing with a jackhammer this weekend. Which is not to say I have retained my sanity so stay tuned!

JN


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## MarkD1 (Nov 13, 2010)

I'd rather swing an ax than run a jackhammer any day! If your willing to spend the money to have a large triangular shaped wedge made, it might work. Good luck


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## Stealth (Nov 13, 2010)

CTYank said:


> Lead-in on the video should not be "Now watch this."
> 
> Too DarwinList-esque.



I dont know why, but this reminds me of when George W. Bush was on a golf course and said "Now watch this drive!" lol.


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## stock50s (Nov 13, 2010)

The only way I could comprehend a jackhammer working well for this is if there was a specialty bit for the application. The way I see it, as soon as the bit gets stuck in the wood, the round and bit would remain stationary while the hammer jumps violently up and down.:bang: Now if there was a bit that had a captured wedge on the end it may make for a viable splitter. The bit could would consist of the wedge and a shaft. The shaft would be able to slide up and down within the wedge, allowing the impact of the bit even when the wedge is stuck. How practical this may be, would depend a lot on the user and their self respect for their body.:hmm3grin2orange: Personally, the noise and bone jarring nature of a jackhammer is an extreme solution to a mild problem.


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## deutzman (Nov 13, 2010)

When I watched that video it brought back memories. I grew up and still live on what use to be a flu cured tobacco farm. In the 50's we used wood to cure tobacco. Fire boxes were made of concrete sides,bottom and metal tops with flu pipes in the end inside the barn that came out after being run along the floor of the barn. The firebox (2 per barn) were open on the end where the wood was fed in. The wood was up to 10' long. My folks spent fall and early winter cutting down trees, cutting to length for the firebox for the barn and splitting the trees. Once split it was loaded on a wagon and brought to each barn and placed in a wood shock which is wood standing up in a circle. Some shocks would be 40' across or maybe more. That's where it dried for the next crop. They used wedges to split that long wood. Once they drove the wedges in and it didn't open so they could finish splitting it with an axe, they used a powder wedge. Here's a link with a powder wedge:http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ttalk&th=451406

They would buy kegs of black powder to use in the powder wedges. I was to young to be allowed in the area where the powder wedges were used. But I remember seeing one driven in the wood and can remember standing in the front yard and hearing them go off. I also remember seeing a big cloud of smoke go up above the tree tops once when a piece of hot fuse came down in a keg of powder and burned what was left in the keg. 

When tobacco barns were fired with wood someone and most of the time 2 would sleep at the barn to keep the heat regulated in those barns. When they got up in the night they would walk from barn to barn with a lantern to put more wood in and check the temp to keep it right for each stage of curing. 

I wish I had those old powder wedges today but I'm sure they were sold for scrap iron once they switched over to kerosene and then later to LP gas. I do have pieces of the fires boxes that I used in a spillway of a pond to keep the dirt from washing out. Folks did a lot of hard work back then. I do have a oil bill from 1956 when Dad switched over the first wood fired barn over to kerosene. Kerosene was 6 cent a gallon then.


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## olyman (Nov 13, 2010)

mga said:


> interesting idea, but, you'd have to put a splitting wedge on the end. the narrow chisle of a jack hammer would most likely just sink into the wood.



beat me to it--agreed!!!


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## airwolf (Nov 13, 2010)

stock50s said:


> The only way I could comprehend a jackhammer working well for this is if there was a specialty bit for the application. The way I see it, as soon as the bit gets stuck in the wood, the round and bit would remain stationary while the hammer jumps violently up and down.:bang: Now if there was a bit that had a captured wedge on the end it may make for a viable splitter. The bit could would consist of the wedge and a shaft. The shaft would be able to slide up and down within the wedge, allowing the impact of the bit even when the wedge is stuck. How practical this may be, would depend a lot on the user and their self respect for their body.:hmm3grin2orange: Personally, the noise and bone jarring nature of a jackhammer is an extreme solution to a mild problem.



Don't jackhammers already work this way? Even my elcheapo electric rotary hammer has a separate striker that continues to strike the shaft of the bit, even if the bit becomes stuck. The bit is free to move up and down, but the bit doesn't have to retract between each blow of the striker.


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## cat10ken (Nov 13, 2010)

Doesn't the famous Super Splitter work on the same principal as a jackhammer; with the flywheel continuously hitting the wedge?


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## ziggo_2 (Nov 14, 2010)

Not mine, seen on youtube........push mute right away....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUeFCFHBd_w


Similar to a jack hammer. works good for small logs.


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## Haywire Haywood (Nov 14, 2010)

cat10ken said:


> Doesn't the famous Super Splitter work on the same principal as a jackhammer; with the flywheel continuously hitting the wedge?



Nope, it uses the flywheel to push the log through a knife in one long stroke, not multiple hits.

Ian


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## ray benson (Nov 14, 2010)

Maul, sledgehammers, various sizes of wedges and noodling.


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## Benchmark (Nov 14, 2010)

*noodling*

I have operated an air hammer, as well. It might work, but I wonder if the impact of the chisel end of the hammer would be absorbed by the wood, being a lower density than concrete. If you do quarter the wood with a chainsaw, (which is what I do to the larger havier pieces prior to splitting) you can get a chain for the saw made for cutting in that direction-a ripping chain.


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## BlueRidgeMark (Nov 14, 2010)

ziggo_2 said:


> Not mine, seen on youtube........push mute right away....
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUeFCFHBd_w
> 
> ...





Those aren't small *logs*. That's kindling wood.


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## komatsuvarna (Nov 14, 2010)

I dont think itll work either. Im just basing my opinion on years of excavator with a hammer and track drilling & blasting operations. I took an excavator and tried to bust a few stumps up that were still in the ground. They were sugar maple and about 18 inches in diamater. It didnt work to good. Like STL said, it just vibrates the heck out of everthing. The wood is too soft and absorbs too much.

Also, I know were not drilling on here, but A ingersoll ECM 590 trackdrill will drill about 19 foot a minute in good solid hard rock. If you drill next to a stump or tree and get on a root, itll take you about 2 minutes to get through a 4 inch root... or so.... but again I know were not drilling the wood. I know when blasting rock that the soft rock is harder to bust. Sounds right backwards, but its not. Take a real hard limestone shot and it bust just like glass with a small amount of powder. Soft sandy rock, you gotta load the heck out of it to get it to bust.

Just my opinion for what little its worth, lay the rounds on there side and noodle them up. White oak is pretty straight grained and shouldnt be to hard to split once you get it started.


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## komatsuvarna (Nov 14, 2010)

ziggo_2 said:


> Similar to a jack hammer. works good for small logs.


 
A jack hammer has no were near that long of a stroke. If it did one could not hang on to it.


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## macattack_ga (Feb 6, 2020)

It it bad form to resurrect such an old thread, but the idea of using a jackhammer was posed and no one appeared to have followed though.

It does work!

I used a cheap ($125) 35lb electric breaker (it's red and can be seen in one of the pics) on some LARGE red oak rounds.
Other options were to use the wedges, maul, noodle or man-handle onto the splitter.
The jackhammer seemed like a better than moving the rounds again.

Standing on the round, still in the trailer, I position the bit inline with natural splits or with the grain.
If it appeared the round was not going to split, I'd re-position the bit before it got stuck.
The bit did get stuck once and I just pulled the jackhammer off the bit and put another on to finish the split very much like using a second wedge. (I've ordered 2 more bits. They are cheap.)
The jackhammer allowed me to knock these big rounds down to a manageable size that i will finish splitting with the splitter.

As for knots, not so much. But for straight grain stuff, yes, yes yes!

(re-posted of the same pics "*Scrounging firewood**" *thread)


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## cat10ken (Feb 6, 2020)

I just don't understand you guys that think splitting wood by hand is that difficult. I am 70 and my wife is 68 and we routinely split wood with our Fiskars. Red oak is one of the easiest to split and cut short like yours it would split with one hand. But if you think muckling a heavy jack hammer around is easier, well more power to you.


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## macattack_ga (Feb 6, 2020)

Much easier & safer that this was.


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