# husqvarna 254 SE



## doc874 (Nov 17, 2007)

Anyone have a pic; of a Husqvarna 254 SE chainsaw? I tried chainsaw collectors and nothing there for that Husky model. I have a chance at one from a guy who also wants my Stihl 026. I am trying to figure looks and value in figuring what money/ dollar value to knock off my stihl. The Husky runs apparently but bogs down in the cut so its fuel related or oil seals. I lean toward fuel/carb problems.


----------



## SawTroll (Nov 17, 2007)

Well, the 254SE is a more capable saw than the 026, but it also is heavier......


It is mostly the same saw as the 154SE, and the later 254XP (one of the best ever)......


----------



## HiOctane (Nov 17, 2007)

Try [URL="http://images.google.ca/images?q=husqvarna%20254&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a&um=1&sa=N&tab=wi"]here[/URL]
And thats an awesome saw.


----------



## doc874 (Nov 17, 2007)

*Husky 254 SE*

Thanks for the info guys. He saids knock off 50 bucks for the Stihl and the Husky is mine plus cash for the Stihl as well. I told him its a deal. Will get-her tomorrow and post some pics. Thanks again.


----------



## romeo (Nov 17, 2007)

*One of my favorites*

The 254 is a great little machine, my wifes 254 is a wicked SOB.:biggrinbounce2:


----------



## a1els (Oct 15, 2008)

*Husqvarna 254*

Sorry to highjack the thread like this, but thought this may be relevant... So there are several version of this was - 254 , 254SE and 254XP . How are they different from one another? I'd assume that the XP is somehow better? But by how much exactly, or is is just a new marketing name/strategy for basically the same saw?

Thanks!


----------



## SawTroll (Oct 15, 2008)

a1els said:


> Sorry to highjack the thread like this, but thought this may be relevant... So there are several version of this was - 254 , 254SE and 254XP . How are they different from one another? I'd assume that the XP is somehow better? But by how much exactly, or is is just a new marketing name/strategy for basically the same saw?
> 
> Thanks!



I believe the 254 just became the 254xp when they started using the "xp" designation to disinguish the best pro saws from the others - just marketing.

Btw, I suspect there never was a "SE" variant, all I have seen have either been 254/254G or 254xp/xpg......

As with most other models made for a long time, they evolved trough production, but that has little to do with xp/non-xp.

Similar stories happened to several Husky models in the late 1980s-early 1990s.


----------



## a1els (Oct 15, 2008)

Thanks Troll!!!
Accurate and to the point as always. Good to have Chainsaw PhD's like you around


----------



## formersawrep (Oct 15, 2008)

The 254 is a strong saw. In testing before it came out it was too close to the power of the flagship saw at that time, the 266. Husky engineers detuned it slightly. Two areas that will produce tremendous power gains for the little work involved are the usual muffler mod and an air cleaner mod. Look carefully at the bottom piece of the air filter where it fits onto the intake elbow. Notice how thick the plastic is there. It was intentionally made to restrict the air going in, similar to a restrictor plate today in Nascar. You can very easily enlarge this hole and allow a lot more air/fuel into that saw.


----------



## SawTroll (Oct 15, 2008)

formersawrep said:


> The 254 is a strong saw. In testing before it came out it was too close to the power of the flagship saw at that time, the 266. Husky engineers detuned it slightly. Two areas that will produce tremendous power gains for the little work involved are the usual muffler mod and an air cleaner mod. Look carefully at the bottom piece of the air filter where it fits onto the intake elbow. Notice how thick the plastic is there. It was intentionally made to restrict the air going in, similar to a restrictor plate today in Nascar. You can very easily enlarge this hole and allow a lot more air/fuel into that saw.




Interesting!    

Btw, the power specs has varied between 2.9 and 3.0kW, and KWF/DLG found 3.1kW when they tested it on their dyno in the late 1990s.......


----------



## a1els (Nov 24, 2008)

*It exists! *

Just saw this on ebay: 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=380083921851

So, it would appear that the mysterious 254SE actually exists...


----------



## SawTroll (Nov 25, 2008)

a1els said:


> Just saw this on ebay:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=380083921851
> 
> So, it would appear that the mysterious 254SE actually exists...



Sure looks that way - that one is from 1987......


----------



## Cadenhill (Nov 25, 2008)

I just purchased a 254xp 3 weeks ago. It was in great shape, just had to be cleaned up. Mine says 254xp on the air filter cover, on the recoil and the metal tag. The only thing I don't like is the swing out choke lever, but not a big deal. Lots of good info on AS about this saw.

I did the search on this site and modded the muffler which is just a can. I opened 2 of the four holes inside the muffler and opened the throat in the carb and she is a little screamer.
Just wondering if anyone is running 3/8 vs .325? mine came with a .325 18". I think it could handle a 3/8 20". I know a .325 20' would be no problem the way this saw runs. Great little saw.

Cadenhill


----------



## Longwood (Nov 25, 2008)

Cadenhill said:


> I just purchased a 254xp 3 weeks ago. It was in great shape, just had to be cleaned up. Mine says 254xp on the air filter cover, on the recoil and the metal tag. The only thing I don't like is the swing out choke lever, but not a big deal. Lots of good info on AS about this saw.
> 
> I did the search on this site and modded the muffler which is just a can. I opened 2 of the four holes inside the muffler and opened the throat in the carb and she is a little screamer.
> Just wondering if anyone is running 3/8 vs .325? mine came with a .325 18". I think it could handle a 3/8 20". I know a .325 20' would be no problem the way this saw runs. Great little saw.
> ...



I run a 3/8 chain and 16" bar on my 254xp (1997) and it pulls it with authority, its a nimble, great handling saw with a 16" bar. It came with a .325 chain and 20" bar but I never liked the balance and I think a 20" bar buried in Hardwood is to slow on this saw. If I want to cut with a 20" bar I grab the 372xp. Here is a pic of my 254xp with a 16" bar. It's a good companion to the 385 its sitting beside.


----------



## SawTroll (Nov 25, 2008)

Longwood said:


> I run a 3/8 chain and 16" bar on my 254xp (1997) and it pulls it with authority, its a nimble, great handling saw with a 16" bar. It came with a .325 chain and 20" bar but I never liked the balance and I think a 20" bar buried in Hardwood is to slow on this saw. If I want to cut with a 20" bar I grab the 372xp. Here is a pic of my 254xp with a 16" bar. It's a good companion to the 385 its sitting beside.




Good choise of bar size. :agree2:


----------



## AZLOGGER (Nov 25, 2008)

They must be popular, look at what this one sold for.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180300055222&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=008

*Cadenhill: were you the purchaser of this saw?*


----------



## Longwood (Nov 25, 2008)

I'm glad to see they hold their value. Mine was 499. + tax in 1997 which was the last year for them in the US. The EPA killed them.


----------



## Cadenhill (Nov 25, 2008)

No mine came out of NC and with shipping I paid 240.00. It was in as nice a shape as that one.
I figured I would go as high as 250, I think they are as nice a saw as there is in that size.


----------



## Stihl Crazy (Nov 25, 2008)

AZLOGGER said:


> They must be popular, look at what this one sold for.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180300055222&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=008
> 
> *Cadenhill: were you the purchaser of this saw?*



I know where that 254 ended up, in my basement.


----------



## Cadenhill (Nov 25, 2008)

Good luck with it. They don't pop up that often. Must be everyone keeps them. I didn't have that many people bidding against me. I didn't get my hopes up, but I lucked out.
Looks like yours came with the 18" .325 bar also.


----------



## AZLOGGER (Nov 25, 2008)

Cadenhill said:


> Good luck with it. They don't pop up that often. Must be everyone keeps them. I didn't have that many people bidding against me. I didn't get my hopes up, but I lucked out.
> Looks like yours came with the 18" .325 bar also.



Keep a look out there could be another one pop up on evilbay, only with 3/8 .050 chain & bar. 

No promises just a rumor.


----------



## Cadenhill (Nov 25, 2008)

Now that they been hyped should be a new record price. Ought to be interesting!!


----------



## SawTroll (Nov 26, 2008)

Stihl Crazy said:


> I know where that 254 ended up, in my basement.




Looks like a nice one!


----------



## STLfirewood (Dec 1, 2008)

Here is a link to the pics of the 2 I picked up. $100 for both.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=75784

Scott


----------



## SawTroll (Dec 1, 2008)

STLfirewood said:


> Here is a link to the pics of the 2 I picked up. $100 for both.
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=75784
> 
> Scott



Those look like 1989 ones, does the number plates say 254 SE or just 254?

One theory I read on another forum is that the very first ones were designated SE/SG, then streight 254/G, and finally XP/XPG........


----------



## Longwood (Dec 1, 2008)

Sawtroll,
This ebay auction has a close up of a 254SE name tag. What year is this saw?
Longwood

http://cgi.ebay.com/HUSQVARNA-254-S...14&_trkparms=72:1205|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318


----------



## SawTroll (Dec 1, 2008)

Longwood said:


> Sawtroll,
> This ebay auction has a close up of a 254SE name tag. What year is this saw?
> Longwood
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/HUSQVARNA-254-S...14&_trkparms=72:1205|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318




1987, week 20, so it is an early one.


----------



## ragrob (Oct 24, 2009)

*Husky 254 se*

Hi guys just registered with the site I have just been given a husky 254 se by my father in law and could post a picture Also I could do with some help to get it started if anyone could help would be most appreciated


----------



## Longwood (Oct 25, 2009)

ragrob said:


> Hi guys just registered with the site I have just been given a husky 254 se by my father in law and could post a picture Also I could do with some help to get it started if anyone could help would be most appreciated



Welcome to AS, 
Congrats on the free 254, to get it running I would empty any old fuel out of it and put in fresh mix and give it a try.


----------



## ragrob (Oct 27, 2009)

*she is now going*

thanks for the advice but i jumped straight in I cleaned the the air filter and replaced fuel filter and plug put fresh fuel in and gave it a pull. It poped a bit and ran for a few seconds and died and a bad smell of fuel. Dried the plug tried again but it just kept flooding. So took the carb apart after a google (its a walpro Carb)and cleaned it put it back but same again.nothing just flooded. I found some techical information on the carb and the needle valve below the diaphram has a plate and a spring attached via a fork which hinges on a little pin
this dimension of the plate is critical it regulates the fuel in. I made a little gauge and ajusted this plate to the required hieght put it all back and got it to run but would not power up. So googled again and reset high and low jets about 1 1/2 turns it seems fine now started it idles well a picks up through revs really well just worried it might be a bit lean dont want to knacker the engine any suggestions to really be sure its ok to cut with oh yeah and get some training so i dont cut ny head off it might sound like i know what Im talking about but I dont all from google and this brilliant site Hope ive done things right


----------



## pioneerguy600 (Oct 27, 2009)

Sounds like you are doing very well for someone that is new to engines and chainsaws. If the high speed needle is set around 1 and 1/2 turns out from lightly seated then the engine should not be running lean. If you can find a tachometer at a shop then that is the preferred way to set the WOT if you cannot tune by ear .
Pioneerguy600


----------



## ragrob (Oct 28, 2009)

*Tunning 254 se*

Thanks for the advice I think I will wind it back in counting turns to be safe side the wind it back the required amount then go on the hunt for a tacho. another question how can I get a spare for this I need a spike thing that sits buy the engine next to the bar cant remmeber what its called. Ithink I will need that I am going to attemp to cut some oak already felled on my father in laws land I spoke with a tree surgeon and he going to give me some training in exchange for some storage space for his truck and a couple of tones of prime british oak i figured a bit of oak my save a leg or two on the spike thing I presume the best way is to try and get pattern part as I would think they are hard to come by


----------



## Gypo Logger (Mar 31, 2010)

I'm working on a 254 I was working on 2 years ago. I reringed it and carb kit.
Anyway, within seconds of starting it had zero comp.

Thinking I'd done something stupid like put the piston in backwards, I got it apart just now and to my surprise the piston was installed properly, but the ring was broken in three pieces and a 1/8 piece was lodged in the ring groove.

There was minimal damage except for a slight burring to the ring groove and a slight gouge to the top middle of the exhaust port.

Has anyone ever heard of a ring shattering and couldn't figure out why?
The serial # is 8390790, what does this tell me?

Also where can I get a ring and a recoil spring. I'm 400K from the nearest dealer, who is also a Honda dealer. Are there any dealers here that ship? I'd like to get this baby running.

Gypo


----------



## Saw Dr. (Mar 31, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> I'm working on a 254 I was working on 2 years ago. I reringed it and carb kit.
> Anyway, within seconds of starting it had zero comp.
> 
> Thinking I'd done something stupid like put the piston in backwards, I got it apart just now and to my surprise the piston was installed properly, but the ring was broken in three pieces and a 1/8 piece was lodged in the ring groove.



Did you use a ring compressor? I have broken a few rings over the years working without a compressor. Sometimes it happens.



Yukonsawman said:


> There was minimal damage except for a slight burring to the ring groove and a slight gouge to the top middle of the exhaust port.
> 
> Has anyone ever heard of a ring shattering and couldn't figure out why?
> The serial # is 8390790, what does this tell me?
> ...



If nobody else chimes in, I'll order you a ring and spring and ship them to you. I may have the recoil spring, but I'm not at home right now to dig around. I know I have a new ring, but it is a cheapo one from a Golf (I think) piston that I took off. Do you know if one of those USPS flat rate boxes will work for shipping to the yukon?


----------



## SawTroll (Mar 31, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> I'm working on a 254 I was working on 2 years ago. I reringed it and carb kit.
> Anyway, within seconds of starting it had zero comp.
> 
> Thinking I'd done something stupid like put the piston in backwards, I got it apart just now and to my surprise the piston was installed properly, but the ring was broken in three pieces and a 1/8 piece was lodged in the ring groove.
> ...



Initially, that sounds like 1998 week 39, assuming it is an xp, but it most likely isn't, based on the number - if it isn't an xp (much more likely), it was made 1988 week 39.


----------



## Gypo Logger (Mar 31, 2010)

B200Driver said:


> Did you use a ring compressor? I have broken a few rings over the years working without a compressor. Sometimes it happens.
> 
> 
> 
> If nobody else chimes in, I'll order you a ring and spring and ship them to you. I may have the recoil spring, but I'm not at home right now to dig around. I know I have a new ring, but it is a cheapo one from a Golf (I think) piston that I took off. Do you know if one of those USPS flat rate boxes will work for shipping to the yukon?


 Thanks for the reply BD, yes I used a ring compressor and made no other mods to the saw except the muff and the plastic intake boot.
I'll take you up on getting me the parts when you get home and a chance to dig around for me. The cheapo ring is ok. USPS will ship, no problem. Let me know what you need and I'll PP you if that works on your end.
Thanks,
Gypo


----------



## Gypo Logger (Mar 31, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> Initially, that sounds like 1998 week 39, assuming it is an xp, but it most likely isn't, based on the number - if it isn't an xp (much more likely), it was made 1988 week 39.


 Thanks ST, it's a straight 254, so it must be an 88. Are you aware what other pistons would fit in the event I decide to change it?
Does anyone know what the approx stock squish is? I know it can vary from one saw to another off the same assembly line. I want a bit more comp if possible.
Thanks,
John


----------



## Stihl Crazy (Mar 31, 2010)

254's were tight stock. No pulling base gasket on them. If you do they will not turn over ( you could remove gasket on a 154 ). The last one that I played with hit with a 11 thou gasket when warm. May still have a used starter side here.


----------



## Gypo Logger (Mar 31, 2010)

Stihl Crazy said:


> 254's were tight stock. No pulling base gasket on them. If you do they will not turn over ( you could remove gasket on a 154 ). The last one that I played with hit with a 11 thou gasket when warm. May still have a used starter side here.



Thanks for pointing that out SC, I sure wouldn't want to end up with a head banger! You probably saved me a few rude awakenings.
Thanks,
John


----------



## Stihl Crazy (Mar 31, 2010)

I have 3 new recoil springs here. If you can't find one send me an address. Are you missing yours or is it broke? If it is broke on the outside just make a new bend to hook it, but backward from stock. If you copy the stock bend it will break again.


----------



## Gypo Logger (Mar 31, 2010)

Stihl Crazy said:


> I have 3 new recoil springs here. If you can't find one send me an address. Are you missing yours or is it broke? If it is broke on the outside just make a new bend to hook it, but backward from stock. If you copy the stock bend it will break again.



Thanks, SC, I sent a PM
John


----------



## Saw Dr. (Mar 31, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> Thanks for the reply BD, yes I used a ring compressor and made no other mods to the saw except the muff and the plastic intake boot.
> I'll take you up on getting me the parts when you get home and a chance to dig around for me. The cheapo ring is ok. USPS will ship, no problem. Let me know what you need and I'll PP you if that works on your end.
> Thanks,
> Gypo



Looks like you may have found a spring already. From the looks of that cylinder in the other thread, I'd say you're going to need more than a ring to make a runner out of this one. I'll send you the ring on Monday if you are still needing it then. PM me your shiping info.

Who knows what happened with that ring. Maybe the cylinder was twisted slightly when you slid it down over the piston, and you caught a ring end then? Sometimes these things just happen. Hopefully someone here has a spare 254 jug for you.


----------



## Gypo Logger (Mar 31, 2010)

B200Driver said:


> Looks like you may have found a spring already. From the looks of that cylinder in the other thread, I'd say you're going to need more than a ring to make a runner out of this one. I'll send you the ring on Monday if you are still needing it then. PM me your shiping info.
> 
> Who knows what happened with that ring. Maybe the cylinder was twisted slightly when you slid it down over the piston, and you caught a ring end then? Sometimes these things just happen. Hopefully someone here has a spare 254 jug for you.


 Thanks BD, I think I located a good used jug thanks to a fellow member.
Will Pm you the addy.
Thanks again,
John


----------



## SawTroll (Apr 1, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> Thanks, SC, I sent a PM
> John



SC is a nice guy, that know a lot!


----------



## Gypo Logger (Jul 5, 2010)

Stihl Crazy said:


> 254's were tight stock. No pulling base gasket on them. If you do they will not turn over ( you could remove gasket on a 154 ). The last one that I played with hit with a 11 thou gasket when warm. May still have a used starter side here.



Damn it, I wished I had reread your post before I put the 254 on the 154 casing now I'm aching to take it apart again!
I found a zama diagram that will fit the 254 carb that had no limiter, but I needed a pair of scissors to make it fit.
John


----------



## Nikko (Jul 5, 2010)

Cadenhill said:


> I just purchased a 254xp 3 weeks ago. It was in great shape, just had to be cleaned up. Mine says 254xp on the air filter cover, on the recoil and the metal tag. The only thing I don't like is the swing out choke lever, but not a big deal. Lots of good info on AS about this saw.
> 
> I did the search on this site and modded the muffler which is just a can. I opened 2 of the four holes inside the muffler and opened the throat in the carb and she is a little screamer.
> Just wondering if anyone is running 3/8 vs .325? mine came with a .325 18". I think it could handle a 3/8 20". I know a .325 20' would be no problem the way this saw runs. Great little saw.
> ...



I ran 3/8 (16" bar) on my 154 - until it blew up (leaned out, friend was running it, I heard it start to go, but did not get there in time  )

20" might be a bit much. It pulled an 18" no problem too - but I liked the 16" because it doubled as a firewood length measuring stick 

Loved that saw. But I like the NE 346xp I got to replace it too


----------



## Gypo Logger (Jul 5, 2010)

I take it back. That is most of the negative stuff I said about 325 pitch. I put a 325 chain, 16" on the 254/154 after I ground and filed it. I'm waiting for the vid to upload. The rackers were taken down to at least 40 thou. (not by me). It cuts with the lower rakers at least as fast as it did with 20 thou rackers and 3/8 with a 13" bar.
John


----------



## Gypo Logger (Jul 5, 2010)

Here's the vid with the 325. All I did was port match gaskets and opened up the restricted filter boot and a slight muff mod.
John

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvidmg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv639%2Fsunlover3%2FMOV03388.mp4">


----------



## SawTroll (Jul 5, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> I take it back. That is most of the negative stuff I said about 325 pitch. I put a 325 chain, 16" on the 254/154 after I ground and filed it. I'm waiting for the vid to upload. The rackers were taken down to at least 40 thou. (not by me). It cuts with the lower rakers at least as fast as it did with 20 thou rackers and 3/8 with a 13" bar.
> John



What kind of .325 chain is that and how much is left of the cutters?

- not that it is a surprice, but I always want to know the details.....


----------



## Gypo Logger (Jul 5, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> What kind of .325 chain is that and how much is left of the cutters?
> 
> - not that it is a surprice, but I always want to know the details.....



It is a chisel Windsor chain and about 3/4 still left. It wasn't grabby, even with the 40 thou rakers. Pushing hard I couldn't pull down the motor. So maybe that's the trick with 325, ie, lower rakers.
John


----------



## SawTroll (Jul 5, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> It is a chisel Windsor chain and about 3/4 still left. It wasn't grabby, even with the 40 thou rakers. Pushing hard I couldn't pull down the motor. So maybe that's the trick with 325, ie, lower rakers.
> John



The only Windsor chain I have run was really bad - but that is not saying that they all are! 

Mine were semi-chisel .325s that a dealer got cheap for trials. He gave a couple to me, but they proved soft and hopeless - one even had a cutter that wasn't ground (fast fix, as the steel was soft).....


----------



## Gypo Logger (Jul 5, 2010)

It seemed I discovered by accident that 325 is good chain with lower rakers, however, with 40 thou rackers hitting anything abrasive, you're gonna be doing alot of filing.
John


----------



## SawTroll (Jul 5, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> It seemed I discovered by accident that 325 is good chain with lower rakers, however, with 40 thou rackers hitting anything abrasive, you're gonna be doing alot of filing.
> John




Try to replace the low rakers with an 8 pin rim on that saw - that might work even better!


----------



## Gypo Logger (Jul 5, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> Try to replace the low rakers with an 8 pin rim on that saw - that might work even better!



I was thinking that, but I have to look to see if I have an 8T 325. Maybe a 9T with the 13" bar, but I'd be inviting chain throws unless I ground the tail of the bar.
John


----------



## andrethegiant70 (Jul 6, 2010)

Way to go, nice runner there. I've been trying to cobble the parts together for one of those for a few years with no luck.


----------



## Gypo Logger (Jul 6, 2010)

andrethegiant70 said:


> Way to go, nice runner there. I've been trying to cobble the parts together for one of those for a few years with no luck.



Andre, I'm surprised you don't have any 2100's, I scooped at least two when I drove thru Flagstaff. I loved that place!
John


----------



## Stihl Crazy (Jul 6, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> It is a chisel Windsor chain and about 3/4 still left. It wasn't grabby, even with the 40 thou rakers. Pushing hard I couldn't pull down the motor. So maybe that's the trick with 325, ie, lower rakers.
> John



 there is hope for you yet. Now advance the timing about 1/2 of the flywheel key and go cut wood.


----------



## Gypo Logger (Jul 7, 2010)

I was thinking I'd not fool with it too much as there's a good market here for used saws. I just opened up the muffler a bit, did some gasket port matching and opened up the restricted filter and boot. I'll leave it 325 as I don't want to get rid of any 16" 3/8 bars. I just need an on/off switch for the 154.
I really want to take out that base gasket though. Lol
I never had much luck advancing timing. So I just file the key thinner and turn it clockwise?
Thanks,
John


----------



## Cantdog (Jul 7, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> Try to replace the low rakers with an 8 pin rim on that saw - that might work even better!




ALL my saws with .325 run 8 pin stock from the factory and I keep it that way. Except one 52E that is ported and runs .325 on a 24" bar, that is 7 pin. I always thought it worked very good on a 50cc saw. Never tried the rakers at 40 thou on purpose though!!


----------



## SawTroll (Jul 8, 2010)

Cantdog said:


> ALL my saws with .325 run 8 pin stock from the factory and I keep it that way. Except one 52E that is ported and runs .325 on a 24" bar, that is 7 pin. I always thought it worked very good on a 50cc saw. Never tried the rakers at 40 thou on purpose though!!



Your old Jonsereds may not be representative for what mostly is the best option on newer 50cc saws....:greenchainsaw:


----------



## Cantdog (Jul 8, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> Your old Jonsereds may not be representative for what mostly is the best option on newer 50cc saws....:greenchainsaw:



Perhaps:agree2: Good point. I suppose it has as much to do with what type/size wood you are cutting too. The newer 50cc saws do turn faster than the older ones thus perhaps not needing the faster chain speed of an 8 pin as much. However I expect, though that may well be the case for a stock modern 50cc saw, a modified newer 50cc saw may be able to produce the extra power to be able to take advantage of an 8 pin and the higher rpm which is what I thought you meant in post #53.


----------



## SawTroll (Jul 8, 2010)

Cantdog said:


> Perhaps:agree2: Good point. I suppose it has as much to do with what type/size wood you are cutting too. The newer 50cc saws do turn faster than the older ones thus perhaps not needing the faster chain speed of an 8 pin as much. However I expect, though that may well be the case for a stock modern 50cc saw, a modified newer 50cc saw may be able to produce the extra power to be able to take advantage of an 8 pin and the higher rpm which is what I thought you meant in post #53.



Yes, you got all that right, as far as I know! 

The reason I mentioned an 8-pin in this thread is that the saw in question is a 254 - not really a 50cc saw.


----------



## Cantdog (Jul 8, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> Try to replace the low rakers with an 8 pin rim on that saw - that might work even better!




HMMMM.....I thought we were talking about .325 and chain speed??? And about whether or not 0.40" rakers with a 7 pin is the best combo.

But where as the 254 is 54cc and not a 50cc saw then I guess my older 49s and 52s that run .325 8 pin are not 50cc saws either.


----------



## SawTroll (Jul 8, 2010)

Obviously, what should be called a 50cc saw can be discussed, but imo the 254 is a bit large to really fit the designation.


----------



## powerking (Sep 13, 2010)

I also own a 254SE, got it a few years back for $40 for a no start condition....bad fuel!!. I was using it this summer to cut some cherry and it locked up on me after running it for 20 min. Took the jug off and the piston welded itself to the jug. I took it off and brought it to my uncle who has a saw shop, and he fixed the jug and I put a new husky piston and ring in it. It runs great once again. I am looking to Mod this thing out...I think I will start with the intake elbow first. Any other advice?
Thanks
Rich


----------



## Gypo Logger (Sep 15, 2010)

powerking said:


> I also own a 254SE, got it a few years back for $40 for a no start condition....bad fuel!!. I was using it this summer to cut some cherry and it locked up on me after running it for 20 min. Took the jug off and the piston welded itself to the jug. I took it off and brought it to my uncle who has a saw shop, and he fixed the jug and I put a new husky piston and ring in it. It runs great once again. I am looking to Mod this thing out...I think I will start with the intake elbow first. Any other advice?
> Thanks
> Rich


 I built one out of 254 and 154 parts. They are a high compression saw already and the one I have is a head banger if you remove the base gasket. The biggest gain is hogging out the intake and muffler mod. I haven't tried advancing the timing though.
John


----------



## powerking (Sep 15, 2010)

Hogging out the intake I assume, Is the intake elbow? I did that already and the throtttle response improved dramatically!! I did take the muff apart and got rid of the baffle that practically closed it off, now she runs really well, I did make sure that my high speed screw was only set 1 1/2 turns out for fear of a lean condition, I do have a tach and now I can get about 14,000rpm out max
Thanks
Rich


----------



## barnlofter (Apr 29, 2015)

Hey guys I have a 254 se I purchased new. I'm told it's a 1987 version. Never gave me trouble till last week when the piston went bad. No scoring in the cylinder. I cannot find a piston, and ring so I can get her back running. Any suggestions will be appreciated.


----------



## rob066 (Apr 29, 2015)

Here is one on Ebay. I bought items from him before. I think he is a member here also http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Hus...630?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e8a2faece


----------



## Eccentric (Apr 29, 2015)

Be sure you cure whatever ill killed the piston. They don't go bad on their own. Probably an air leak somewhere. Crank seals. Intake gaskets. Etc....


----------



## pioneerguy600 (Apr 29, 2015)

Meteor also makes a replacement piston for that saw, just saying.


----------



## barnlofter (Apr 29, 2015)

rob066 said:


> Here is one on Ebay. I bought items from him before. I think he is a member here also http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Hus...630?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e8a2faece


My understanding is that the 1987 used a different piston than the later models. If I am wrong please someone let me know. My understanding is the 45mm piston will not work in a 1987 254 se.


----------



## barnlofter (Apr 29, 2015)

Eccentric said:


> Be sure you cure whatever ill killed the piston. They don't go bad on their own. Probably an air leak somewhere. Crank seals. Intake gaskets. Etc....


I think the rod bearing is too loose. I plan to replace if I can find the correct piston and ring. Husqvarna says unavailable.


----------



## pioneerguy600 (Apr 29, 2015)

You need to measure your piston before ordering a replacement from any source, years of manufacture never really guarantees any certain piston size, only measuring will tell you for sure. Cylinders and pistons sometimes get swapped but even a new saw made in a stated year can have a more than one piston/cylinder size.


----------

