# Stump Grinding Business



## River Hill (Sep 29, 2003)

I would first like to start off by saying I am not another guy, trying to pretend to be a aborist or add tree removal to my small landscape/lawn care business. I am sure you guys see you fair share of scrubs/unlicensed/uninsured people trying to make a quick buck on tree removal and stump grinding. I have been seriously considering adding stump grinding to my services. I would like to purchase a new skid steer, but I am looking for some ways to justify the cost. I have read, but have never seen stump grinders that are skid steer mounted. Have any of you seen or demoed one of these and what are your thoughts? I have seen people advertise about doing stump grinding, but do you think it's possible to make money in this field? I know there are a few companies in Mass. that only do stump grinding and make a good living a doing this alone. What are your thoughts. I think I would need to do sub-contract work for some tree removal companies who do not want to be bothered with stump removal, but I am looking for some opinions. 

The skid steer mounted stump grinders seem like a great deal, since you are actually powering them with the skid steer. But, I don't know how good they actually work compared to a vermeer or others.


----------



## treeman82 (Sep 29, 2003)

Well, one obvious issue you are going to have with using a bobcat mounted stump grinder will be the stumps that you can get to. You should be fine going in and doing stumps at small land clearing sites, or doing work where people are expanding the yard, putting in septic, etc. However backyard stumps might be a bit tough for you because of access.


----------



## Stumper (Sep 30, 2003)

82 raises a good point-I'm told that some of the Bobcat mounted machines are quite efficient but a lot of stumps will be hard to access. The big issue for me has never been speed of operation but rather, keeping even a small machine busy. Yes it is possible to make a living doing only stump work. I don't. Stump removal is a significant portion of my biz but considerably less than half. My father has made his living doing little else besides stumps for several years-BUT he travels alot and works wherever he goes-he could not make a living in the small community he calls home. I think that you could robably keep a skidsteer busier doing earthmoving/landscaping projects instead of stumps-but nothing says you can't do both.


----------



## Striker (Sep 30, 2003)

From what i have seen of the loader mounted grinders, you have to move the loader to move the grinder. In other words, the grinder doesn't have a seperate swing function. Maybe some of them do. A skid loader can tear up a lot of yard just swinging a stump grinder.

Jeff


----------



## River Hill (Sep 30, 2003)

From what I have been looking at the bobcat model seems pretty good. Here are the specs. on the machine. It looks like I could do a 45" diameter stump without moving the machine.

STUMP GRINDER 
Make fast work of tree stumps — both large and small — with the SG60 Bobcat Stump Grinder. A 32-inch cutting height, 80-degree swing arc and 27-inch cutting wheel, combined with a unique valve design and rubber deflector shields, give the SG60 the maneuverability, power, ruggedness and safety you've come to expect from the Bobcat name. 

The work group is mounted at an angle of 90 degrees to the operator for excellent visibility to the cutting area, giving the operator the same wide view as a pull-behind stump grinder. 
The swing cylinder design generates an impressive arc of 80 degrees. This allows the operator to cut large stumps up to 45 inches in diameter without repositioning. 
A 32-inch cutting height gives better access for grinding taller stumps, and a 58-inch reach means less forward movement of the loader. 
The cutting wheel contains 32 fully-supported teeth. 
The cutting wheel on the SG60 is attached to a boom and arm assembly to allow for efficient hose routing. 
Rubber deflector shields and screening provide additional operator comfort and protection from wood chips. 
The unique valve design controls the swing circuit speed to prevent the cutting wheel from stalling in the cut. 

I am looking at the Bobcat A300 which is a All Wheel/Skid Steer model so I could use in in All Wheel steer mode when I am on turf, which should be very turf friendly.

I don't have too much of a concern for getting into back yards, as I have had to do this with equipment many times. I will always remove a panel of fence or take down a section of chain link. It only takes minutes. I don't understand why more contractors don't do this.


----------



## Lumberjack (Sep 30, 2003)

I would look into an RG50 or the Super RG 50. We have used the RG 50 for 5-6 years (whenever it came out) and it will do anything, and it will go through a 3 foot gate. That, I think would be yopur beset bet. You can pull it with a 1/2 ton and it weights alot less (2500-3000) than a Bobcat (7000). 


Carl


----------



## Stumper (Sep 30, 2003)

IMHO the "32 inch cutting height for grinding taller stumps" is nonsense. Maybe it is helpful to some people but not me. If I'm hauling the chips I don't want all of those extras. If I'm leaving it in the yard (which is typical in my case) the customer doesn't want them. WHY spend all the extra time, cause extra wear and tear on expensive machinery, and create a bigger mess when you can cut a couple of blocks of wood off with a chainsaw? Chainsaws are for cutting the trunk off above ground. Stump grinders are for taking out the dirty below ground stuff. Sure I make my saw cuts 2 or 3inches above ground-more if there is a lot of butt swell and surface roots. I don't usually recut if the stump is under 8" high. If it is more than that when I arrive the saw comes out!


----------



## River Hill (Sep 30, 2003)

Stumper I argree with you about cutting off the stump. I think it's just a marketing ploy. I knew I would have a reason to buy a bigger saw than my 357XP.


----------



## Stumper (Sep 30, 2003)

They say that men are but boys with more expensive toys. -But we always need more toy...er... I mean tools.


----------



## cjohnson (Sep 30, 2003)

*stump grinder*

I own a Gehl 5635 skidloader and a SG60 stumpgrinder it works very well you are limited to what you can get to with it because of the width of the skidloader. You do not have to move the skidloader besides forward to grind the stump. You can get the grinder from ceattach.com for less money than bobcat wants it is the exact same one made by the same company. Spend the extra and get the SG60 instead of the two smaller models. You may have to get a skidloader with the high-flow hydraulics to run the grinder. Make sure you check into the Gehl skidloaders before you buy any other brand. You couldn't give me any other brand after I drove the Gehl's. I own two of them the other is a 3825 with the grapple bucket for brush.

As for making a living doing just stump removal around MN it would be tough the only reason I bought a grinder is I was loosing jobs because I couldn't remove the stumps too. I made better money when I sub out the stumps but people didn't like that a different company came to grind then I came back a day or two later to clean-up the mess that he made. Plus he owned a bucket truck so he was passing out cards to my customers!


----------



## cjohnson (Sep 30, 2003)

*where to find stump grinder*

The stump grinders are under landscaping tools at the ceattach.com website.


----------



## Ax-man (Sep 30, 2003)

River Hill,

I'm not saying you have a bad idea here with the Bobcat. I like to make you aware that you are basically getting into two different type of businesses that really have nothing in common with each other. Can you do a good job at both without one or the other suffering in some way where you won't lose customers?? It's hard to run two businesses and do a good job at both, especially if your doing a solo act with a few people.

Example that comes to mind:

You get a rainy wet spell, you and your Bobcat can't do one venture or another because of wet ground conditions. Your behind in your obligations 1 to 2 wks. Weather starts to break and drys up you have both stumps and landscape projects to get done, you have to make a decision as to what will make you the most, stumps or landscaping. Think you can handle it especially if you have a tree service leaning on you to get their work done, along with some one impatiently waiting to get their yard leveled or whatever. Kinda get the picture I'm trying to paint here. IMO I really don't think you can do a good job at both and suceed.

Stump grinders are high maintence machines, that require constant attention to sucessfully make money with them. Do you have the time to dedicate to it. What may look good now may be an expensive trap down the road in 6 months. If you think you can handle it Go For It.

Stumper,

I agree with your statement on the 32 " in cutting height as being nonsense, most of the time.

It really isn't a waste when it comes to those wind throw tree stumps. That extra cutting height comes in handy, beats the heck out of chopping roots with grub tools and saves on saws Big Time.


----------



## treeman82 (Sep 30, 2003)

I think that the weight and width of the bobcat will hurt you the most. The grinder itself can really kick some butt. However when you have to get into a highly landscaped garden, or around a pool, behind a septic system, etc you are going to have to rent. The 50TX, RG50, 252, 232, etc are going to be ahead of you in those areas because they can get into tight areas and can go over septic systems. However you will be able to go and do bigger projects. The thing about going into back yards with a fence is, what happens when you are only going back there for 1 or 2 stumps which are only $60 per stump? Not really worth it to tear down the fence. You may want to also look into a used 252 or something like Stumper has. They are still going to be a couple bucks, but they will increase your grinding potential a LOT.


----------



## kurtztree (Sep 30, 2003)

Here in Fonddulac Wisconsin Most people charge between $1.10 to $1.25 an inch to grind a stump Don't know how they make a living doing it. If people want me to grind a stump I tell them $1.75 an inch and they go with somebody else then. That is why I cant justify buying a stump grinder.


----------



## River Hill (Sep 30, 2003)

CJOHNSON does the weight of you GEHL seem to tear up the yards? That is one concern I have as the weight of the All Wheel Bobcat is very heavy, but it's suppose to leave a light footprint. 

Stumper what machine are you running now?

Ax-man you made some very good points. I don't do too much landscape work, I actually do mostly mowing. 

I don't want to do stump grinding for a living just a add on serive that will help me justify the cost of buying a new skid steer. As you know we don't get much snow in MD, but when we do the pay is great if you own a skid steer.


----------



## cjohnson (Sep 30, 2003)

*Clean up the mess or not*

I was wondering if the guys that are grinding stumps for $1.25/inch clean up the chips and fill the hole for that price or is clean up extra? I don't really charge by the inch I just know how long it will take and factor in the distance from home and wether or not I am going to be in the area in the time frame the customer wants it done and figure out my price based on my $100/HR. I don't get many just stump jobs but that is fine too because if you spend your days chasing 5 $50 jobs you will be working all winter because your checking account is too low and I hate being up in a tree when it is -10 F. Back to the oringinal question, I ususally double my price if I have to clean up and fill the hole.(takes twice as long)?


----------



## cjohnson (Sep 30, 2003)

*Weight of skidloader*

The Gehl 5635 weighs about 9000lbs with the grinder on. It is fine if you can drive staight into the stump from the road or if you can make wide turns but sharp turns tear the sod off. You can see the impressions in the grass if there has been more than an inch of rain within 3 or 4 days prior to that day. But it is fine most of the time.


----------



## xander9727 (Sep 30, 2003)

I have a Promark walk behind stump grinder and am looking into getting a tractor mounted pto driven larger grinder. 50% of the stumps we do have some access issue. The walk behind grinder will go up and down steps and through a standard walk gate. I would like to get a larger grinder for the big stumps 36" and larger. When I was purchasing a piece of equipment for handling large logs I choose a tractor over a skid steer. I didn't come by the decision lightly. I tested and read up on several models of skid steers and tractors. Ultimately I choose a tractor because of the lawn damage issue. Both machines cost about the same and have equal ability. However, a four wheel drive tractor can operate in two wheel drive and has much less contact pressure due to large tires. The front wheels turn and you can operate on yards after rain with minimal damage. Additionally on land clearing jobs a four wheel drive tractor will skid large logs with ease, skid steers don't have alot of pulling power. If I were going to add stump grinding to my list of services I would by a smaller grinder. If I was going to grind stumps as a living I would have both large and small grinders. Material moving equipment are a must for a tree company.

My .02


----------



## treeman82 (Sep 30, 2003)

???? dude. People over here are getting at least $4.00 per inch for grinding and tossing the chips back in the stump. I heard that the high end is close to $6.00 per inch.


----------



## Stumper (Sep 30, 2003)

River Hill, I'm running a Rayco RG 12. -A small portable. I don't price by the inch- that is really a poor way to price since doubling diameter quadruples the volume. I quote the job. I might do 20 5"diameter stumpletts for $100 or get $125 for a 30 inch diameter stump. If pressed for a per inch price to give someone a "ballpark" I tell people $1 per inch CIRCUMFERENCE at ground level. That equates to a little over $3 per diameter inch but sounds better and makes peaple measure down where it counts. I do not even offer hauling chips and backfilling with soil-let some one else do the unskilled/no special equipment work. (Yes, I occassionally do haul and backfill-for people who request it and for little old widow ladies, but I don't want to do it if I can avoid it generally speaking. As Cjohnson said- it takes at least twice as long so you need to price accordingly.) My price does include backfilling with the chips and dirt generated by the operation. I expect to gross $100-$200 per hour on the job -travel,conversation with customers and various expenses take there toll.


----------



## TheTreeSpyder (Oct 1, 2003)

On some stumps we used to grind around the outside circumfrence leaving cleaner 'bone' of stump inside the bark, nails, trapped sand etc. (that grinder took abuse of); then take a slab off the top with a big saw. That could save time grinding,mess, cleanup by taking that piece out in slab form, compressed as much as possible. Rolls/ flips/ sleds easier too!

Grinders cost more than saws generally, as well as their cutters. Can be a good strategy.

Pretty good way to express that price $tumper!


----------



## Lumberjack (Oct 2, 2003)

The added cutting hight comes in handy on uprooted trees. We thought about the PTO grinder, but I figure that that will were out the clutch super fast and they are a pain to change. I still say get a RG50 or a RG85. The super RG50 and the 85 come with a backfill blade.


Carl


----------



## GlennG (Oct 3, 2003)

I just read every post...Here are my thoughts. The people who will actually pay to have a stump removed care about there property, lawn, trees, gardens shrubery etc. If you bring a Bobcat across most of the nice properties that I work on there is going to be serious damage(unhappy customers) especially with the rainy summer we just had in the east. I use a 20 hp self propelled walk behind machine. I can leave a property with no trace and this alone gets me refferels and recomendations. I can go up steps, into gardens, thru 31 inch gates. It has a decent reach and it is simple to work on. If I am going to bid on a stump job I can just drive it into the bed of my Toyota truck (24 mpg) 9 times out of 10 the homeowner has me do the work right then. I can take a stump out a lot quicker this way than returning later with heavy equipment that the customer does not want on their property. No extra trailer,liscense plates,taxes required. I charge 5 per inch for the first stump and less if there are multiple stumps . No 2 jobs are the same and I try to adjust according to ease or complexity of the job. I offer good customer service and clean up everything, level the hole with grindings and haul the rest. If I`m removing a tree I can put the grinder in the big truck while pulling the chipper. I dump the chips and retrive the stumper at the end of the job. I like the efficiency of not having to bring multiple vehicles pulling trailers to the smaller removal jobs. Saves gas and lets us BS together during the drive. 90% of the time this little machine is perfect 10% of the time I wish it was bigger and more powerful. I can`t believe a Bobcat would be perfect 50% of the time . My little stump machine actually started my tree business. I`m not an arborist yet but I`m reading, studying and learning everything I can. I`m attending seminars and loving what I do. Stump grinding in itself will pay the bills but its lonely and sometimes boring. I enjoy the company my crew to make the day cruise along


----------



## GlennG (Oct 3, 2003)

I forgot to add that I compete locally with a guy that uses a bobcat and I get most of the work because I can get to places he can`t or because homeowners simply refuse to let his machine on their lawn. Here is another pic

Glenn Gertis


----------



## xander9727 (Oct 3, 2003)

Glenn,
My stump grinder is almost identical to yours with the exception of the color, and the battery and gas tank are reversed. Mine originally came with a 18hp kohler magnum. When it through a rod I replaced it with a 20hp kohler command pro and now it grinds twice as fast.


----------



## xander9727 (Oct 3, 2003)

Do most of you sharpen the teeth on your grinders regularly? I sharpen mine when they loose an edge or I get into some rock or other non-wood hard surface. I can sharpen them in about 25 minutes and it really saves wear and tear on the clutch and belts. Additionally sharp teeth can cut the time a job takes in half for bigger stumps.


----------



## Kram (Oct 3, 2003)

Glen, what size dia. was that stump on your second pic? I'm guessing about 48 inch. A big one.


----------



## Dan F (Oct 3, 2003)

I have used a skidsteer mounted grinder. I've also used a walk-behind manual swing (Rayco of some sort, looks VERY similiar to what Glenn posted pics of) grinder as well as a Vermeer SG252. 

Of the three, the Rayco comes in last. Swinging it manually SUCKS! But it did a good job of braking (no, not breaking) a ballcart with a boulder on it down a hill once. The skidsteer mounted grinder has it's place, if you have a lot to grind in a large area, it is worth it. 

For all around general use, of the three, I would have to go with the 252, though it does have it's limitations. Mainly the steering sucks and it is slow to move from stump to stump if very far apart. It does a good job though.

Here's a suggestion: RENT a grinder, as you need it. If you can line up 3-4 (or more) stumps to grind in a day, charging $75 or so per, then after the first stump, the grinder is about paid for for the day. I think we rented the 252 Vermeer grinder last week for $100 for a 24 hour rental. Used it on the job for 6 stumps, then I brought it home and ground a lot more on the clients tab. 

I don't think you will make a lot of money grinding, but if you are losing other work because you don't grind, then like I said, rent as you need to, if you find you are grinding more and more, then look at buying. Charge more for the other work if you can to help pay for the grinding.... 

That said, have you looked at a Dingo or MT50 (or similiar) with a grinder attachment? The mini-skidsteer base price is lower (just slightly though) than a full-size, and it can go through gates usually without a problem. Getting one with tracks reduces ground pressure too and doesn't leave ruts like a wheeled machine will. (Though some here may argue about that point....)


Dan


----------



## GlennG (Oct 4, 2003)

I buy my teeth I quanity for $2.25 each so I usually just swap in a new set. I have been seriously thinking about switching to Greenteeth but the initial sticker shock makes me balk. Sharp teeth is an absolut must. <p> The stump in pic 2 was a 50 inch oak, that was hit by lightning. The grinding process took less than 20 minutes cleanup took 30. I charged $4 per inch on this job cause it was easy job.<p> Swinging manualy sucks in the beginning but after a few stumps I got a good feel for my machine. The machine is well ballanced and I can feed it through the stump most efficiently by feel, I can outcut a 252 because of this, not to mention it is fast traveling and easy to manuver around the stump. I am happy to operated this machine. Its very "all-terain" and this helps me in Western Pa because our terain is very hilly. If I need to buy a bigger machine I`d like to check out the Vermeer 50tx track machine, but it would probably make sense for me to stick with what I have and rent the big machine from time to time. This is just my .02 . This is what has been working for me and I`m satisfied .<p> One trick that I`ve been doing lately is to spread a 12x16 tarp on the ground behind the stump. I then put down 3x6 sheet of plywood on the tarp, closest to the stump. I drive my machine onto the plywood and it swings easy. I can shovel the chips easily off of the plywood . I then gather the tarp and have little to clean up. 

Glenn Gertis


----------



## stump grinder (Oct 7, 2003)

*grinder teeth*

Glen,
Do you get your teeth from discount stumpcutters? If so have you had any problems with teeth bending and tips coming off? I sent them back a box of 40 teeth because he wanted to see them and he said that the teeth were sticking out too far even though I set them to rayco's spec. I guess he did not expect that many in the box. I run a rayco 1620 jr. 

Dean Chartier


----------



## GlennG (Oct 7, 2003)

Yes I get them from Discount Stump Cutters. I have had the tips come off but only after hitting a buried surveyers spike . I have seen a few that where not bent to the right spec from the factory, this would cause the tooth to scrape the inside of the wheel housing and make an aweful racket. I have about 5 sets of teeth left and when there used up I think I`m going to bite the bullet and purchase Greenteeth. I`m looking foward to the simplified tooth changing. <p> Has anyone switched to Greenteeth cutters from the old 1/2 inch square shank cutters? Is it worth the $$$?

Glenn


----------



## xander9727 (Oct 7, 2003)

I switched to the vermeer "pro teeth". It cost me around $250 to buy the new pockets, teeth, longer bolts and six spare teeth. I think the switch was definately worth the money. I have never broken one and have only had one carbide cutter come off. I have found buried chain that wrapped around the wheel and stopped it completely (took some time to get off ), I have hit rebar, railroad spikes and numerous rocks, bricks, etc. and have yet to have a tooth break. With the old style teeth it seemed like I broke at least one a week. Once I hit a piece of granite and broke three at the same time. I really like the pro teeth and usually sharpen them 20+ times before they are worn out. A set last eight months to a year depending on how much grinding we do. Once you own the pockets the teeth cost approx. $5 a piece. A full set cost me around $75 with shipping.


----------



## Yellowdog (Oct 11, 2003)

I do a lot of land clearing and usually have to dig stumps out for hauloff in containers or burning on-site in a pit. For those of you who are in the know, would a skidsteer mounted stump grinder work well on uprooted stumps? If nothing else, would it remove some of the volume?

Does anyone know if it is acceptable to grind stumps where a foundation will go? Down here, we uproot everything but it disturbs lots of rock and leaves "pockets" of soft earth that have to be filled in or compacted to some extent.

We also get a lot of very large dead oak stumps that need to be ground. How will a stump grinder hold up on hard, old, tree stumps?


----------



## Yellowdog (Oct 11, 2003)

Dan,
You made an excellent point and observation. I thought about the stumps moving some but not violently. That could be dangerous or costly especially if rocks are on the stump.


----------



## Ax-man (Oct 11, 2003)

Yellowdog,

I've had to do this a couple of times, to reduce the weight of the stump for our loader to be able to pick it up. On a large heavy rootball it will work to a point, but as mentioned by Tree Co you you will suck it in and under the machine. You just have to know when to stop.

In regards to your second question, most builders I've work with put extra rebar over the spot where the stump was.

Old dead stumps are little harder on machines than live ones. Oak is a good stump to grind on in most cases alive or dead. The worst ones are the softwoods like pine, willows. basswoods, poplar species, birch, the worst of the bunch to grind on is an old dead American Elm stump, especially if the cutting teeth are a little on the dull side.


----------



## stump grinder (Oct 11, 2003)

I agree with the Elm, hard as a rock. Not a good job.

Dean


----------



## Stumper (Oct 12, 2003)

Hmmff. I always thought elm was relatively easy. You guys need to try Osage or Huisache. I'll agree that the surprise for the inexperienced is pine-it can be awful to grind. As far as Yellowdog's queation goes-I've ground many stumps out for foundations to go in. If it is gone-its gone! If a slab is going in then reinforcement makes sense because the remaining roots may permit a little settling as they decompose. Where footings are going in I have always just ground everything out of the footing trench and the contractors have been pleased as punch.


----------



## Ax-man (Oct 12, 2003)

Stumper, If you noticed I said American Elm, Siberian Elm or commonly missed named Chinese Elm is realatively easy I'll agree on that one. Your right about Osage Orange though, I just forgot it because I don't grind alot of those out. I've cut on enough of them though just nothing more than a living tangled brush pile on roots.

What is Huisache anyway, never heard of this one, must be something that is local to your area only????


----------



## Yellowdog (Oct 12, 2003)

Why is the pine and softer woods difficult to grind? I will most likely be grinding ashe juniper and live oak. We don't have many elms around here.


----------



## Stumper (Oct 12, 2003)

The juniper will be easy. Live oak is dense wood that tends to make very fine chips(as opposed to big, coarse chunks). Live oak isn't dead easy just because of its density but it grinds well. Both Junipers and oaks grind relatively well even with slightly dull teeth. Whay makes pine difficult is a degree of compressability-the wood tends to spring away from a cuttertooth rather than being sheared by it. Pine grindings usually wind up as a bunch of shredded stringy fibers. Freshly cut live trees and sharp teeth tend to grind fairly well. Old pine stumps in which the lignin has begun to break down are easy. However, pines that have been cut for 6-months -2years are nasty. Species plays a part-Pinyon grinds well and spruces aren't too bad but Ponderosas and Slash pines-yuck. At least they smell nice. 

Axman, I did catch the American Elm part of your post-they ARE quite a bit harder to grind than Siberians but I still don't think they are horrible. Huisache is a tree of South Texas and Mexico. HARD. The biggest Osages I've ground were 30+ inches in diameter-tough grinds. Dead eucalyptus can be tough to. The worst thing I've ever ground remains unidentified- the owner didn't know what it was and I couldn't identify it from the stump. The wood was Hard, Pink and gummed up sharp teeth 'til they would hardly cut because they had no relief behind the edge!


----------



## Yellowdog (Oct 12, 2003)

. The wood was Hard, Pink and gummed up sharp teeth 'til they would hardly cut because they had no relief behind the edge! [/B][/QUOTE]

Sound like you tried to grind a Mary Kay Cadillac!

I didn't realize Osage Orange grew so big. We have some here in S. Central Texas but they are relatively small. 
I imagine bigger the chips the easier it is to clean up? If you are grinding in a foundation, would you remove all the chips after you ground the stumps?


----------



## stump grinder (Oct 12, 2003)

Sometimes they become stringy and just don't grind out well, willow does this. I have a big one this week.

Dean


----------



## Ax-man (Oct 12, 2003)

If any one is just curious 24-30 in. Osage is about average for their size if they haven't been cut off at ground level. I took one down a few years ago that was nearly 50 in. at the stump cut. The main stem was straight and clean too. I was going to get it milled into some boards, as it makes eye catching wood. Had some hardware in it and didn't want to take a chance on ruining the mill guys blade, made premo firewood though.

While were speaking of pine stumps, believe this if you want, but dug out pine stumps are worth money. I know this guy near Buffalo N.Y. who saves these things. He lets them sit a while, then cleans them up with a pressure washer, then he will cut them into 12 in. long by 2 to 4 in. widths. It's called fat wood, makes the best starter wood in a stove or fireplace. Put some fat wood in throw a match to it, instant fire. People actually pay money for this stuff, I don't know if is worth the time and effort to fool with it, but he does. Just thought I would throw this in as a curio.


----------



## Stumper (Oct 12, 2003)

Yellowdog, Actually smaller chips make for much easier clean up-they bulk far less and do not hang up in the grass etc., I reccomend removeing chips from foundation areas but don't haul chips as a general rule-better for the contractor to have a $10 per hour laborer move chips rather than me. 

Axman, if that was a straight grained Osagesounds like you burned several hundred dollars worth of bow staves. -Of course splitting them out would have been a chore. Average size of Osage varies a lot over their range-some places anything over 8"dbh is big-others 30"dbh is fairly common.


----------



## Yellowdog (Oct 12, 2003)

Do you guys get a lot of contractor's preferring to have stump ground rather than uprooted? Down here it's the backhoe for everything. I am trying to change things a little but the backhoe is used for clearing, digging, etc. I see a lot of smashed front ends and flat tires and lots of stumps in dumpsters! I filled a 30yd the other day with just rootballs. I sheared off all the stumps I dug up from a 60x50 foundation. There was barely enough room in that dumpster and it seems like grinding would make more sense...


----------



## stump grinder (Oct 12, 2003)

*tipped in over today- starter woes.*

Well,
I finally did it. I entered a hole with my rayco 1620 jr this afternoon and tipped it over. Happened so quick that I could not save it. No damage though. Just some spilled hydro out of the vent cap. It was that kind of day. I have been plagued with bad starter solenoid issues(kohler-onboard solenoid). 3 since last fall. I spent an hour on the job just fixing it. They are getting dirty, the starter guy tells me.It does happen when we get a dry spell and the dust flies. I am thinking it might not just be that though. I want to try another brand of solenoid. Anyone have this problem before? Possable solutions?

Dean


----------



## Stumper (Oct 12, 2003)

If that is the same solenoid as on my Kohler-I fought intermittent probems for two years then my mechanic told me the "secret"-Kohler typically uses a Ford solenoid.- I went to the auto parts storeand got the solution for about $8.:angel:


----------



## Yellowdog (Oct 12, 2003)

Don't know about your solenoids but if you are getting dirty and wood chips and dust count as dirty, then you should invest in an air compressor and blow gun... You will be surprised how little time it takes to clean stuff. Besides keeping your solenoid area clean, you can clean off your hydro caps, oil caps, fuel caps, cooling vents or radiator, etc. Blow it out and keep it clean. It has been one of my best investments and has cut back on down time for cleaning and contaminating fuel, oil, etc.


----------



## stump grinder (Oct 13, 2003)

I've got the compressor. The problem is that this solenoid is mounted on the starter,it's a Nippon Denso. To tear it down so that I can clean it is a 45 deal.I am really starting to think this "brand" of solenoid the guy put in for me is junk.

Dean


----------



## Stumper (Oct 13, 2003)

I wonder if there is any reason you can't just remote mount an auto solenoid and eliminate the starter mounted one?


----------



## stump grinder (Oct 13, 2003)

There is a different type of starter that would allow me to do that. I don't know if their is one available for this engine though. That setup has an automotive type solenoid and the gear on the strarter engages the flywheel because of the rotation of the starter.

Dean


----------

