# Anyone own a 'Super Split' log splitter?



## kah68 (Dec 16, 2007)

I am looking at buying a splitter and I'm wondering who has the 'Super Split' how do you like it, how much did you pay? Oh and is anyone selling one used ?


http://www.supersplit.com/


Thanks

Kirk


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## STLfirewood (Dec 16, 2007)

I have one and love it. I think it's the best splitter on the market. Mine was $2850 and that was 4 years ago. You will love the thing. Do a seach this has been cover a bunch on here.

Scott


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## hornett22 (Dec 16, 2007)

*anyone i have met that has one loves it.*

i met one guy who has two.he says he's buying a 3rd.


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## JackD_ME (Dec 16, 2007)

After watching ten minutes of video on their site I've got some serious interest!
Was that hardwood he was splitting?

What is the 'cycle time' of those $4k to $6k TW's?
Just asking as I need to find a splitter too.


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## kellog (Dec 16, 2007)

Supersplit makes a good machine. It does have a few areas for improvement (doesn't everything?). Review the following thread post #12 to see the few areas for improvement. I believe the supersplit is the most productive splitter in its price class and is very well built. It is definitely not the safest. If you are at all "accident prone" don't buy one. If you are safety conscious and careful, it will make a very good machine for you. 
Look at post #12 in 
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=54622&highlight=super+split


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## Ford's Lawncare (Dec 16, 2007)

Wicked Nice! I just bought one a month ago, the one with the 4.5hp subaru. Splits everything. The only time you have to hit a piece of wood twice is when it gets caught in the cross grain, so it is cutting it more then splitting it. I can cut and split a cord of wood with this splitter in about 2.5 hours. I bought mine fore $1500 in the local swap and sell guide. In my opinion, short of buying a processor, these machiences are the next best productive units.


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## Mike Van (Dec 16, 2007)

Guys on the forestry forum had a thread about them too - Everybody that had one wouldn't part with it, thats got to tell you that they're good.


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## aterren (Dec 23, 2008)

*Any additional photos?*

I know this is an older thread but I was wondering if anyone who owns a super split would be willing to post a few images of the rack engagement cam and release mechanisms.

Merry Christmas!

-Adrien


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## fspoon (Jan 10, 2009)

*almost 3 decades of use*

I have used the SuperSplit electric splitter for almost 3 decades.
Amazing machine. It is safe unless you are a real Klutz. Even my wife has used it often, never any anxiety, problems. 

No problems until this week when I lost the key. How careless. I wrote to the company for advice. Will wait and see if they have any customer service / advice.

FS


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## STLfirewood (Jan 10, 2009)

fspoon said:


> No problems until this week when I lost the key. How careless. I wrote to the company for advice. Will wait and see if they have any customer service / advice.
> 
> FS



What do you mean by key?

Scott


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## dnf0929 (Jan 10, 2009)

Kirk,

I purchased the SSHD with the 6hp Robin engine for $3,100 delivered about a month ago and I am thoroughly impressed and satisfied. I think you'll be hard pressed to find one used. I looked for about 6 months and only saw one on eBay in Texas that with shipping was the same price as I paid for the new one. Feel free to ask any specific questions.

Dan


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## sloth9669 (Jan 10, 2009)

*tw cycle time*

the cycle time is much more 10sec or so but also take into account its 25tons of force and would cut wood sideways and also add to that you put a 6way wedge in place and 10 sec for 6 cuts is 1.5sec per cut and the other i think is 1 cut 4 sec. but you better be running alot of wood to but a tw5 or bigger ps one is for sale by me. i love the thing just not cutting that much wood anymore to keep such a big machine.


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## pickwood (Jan 10, 2009)

They have a great rep - quick cycle time-works great on the smaller logs. Looks flimsy to me and especially with the larger logs. That fast cycle time is great with a couple of people= whats the benefit when working by yourself?:greenchainsaw:


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## Hoosierheater (Jan 10, 2009)

*Super Split*

Everyone speaks very highly of these units. I, however, use the vertical mode with my Swisher probably 95% of the time. I see no evidence that you can place these in a vertical mode. Am I wrong or not??


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## Wet1 (Jan 10, 2009)

Hoosierheater said:


> Everyone speaks very highly of these units. I, however, use the vertical mode with my Swisher probably 95% of the time. I see no evidence that you can place these in a vertical mode. Am I wrong or not??



No vertical on the SS. 

I have one as well and wont ever buy another hydraulic splitter again. It took a long time, but I finally found my used SS in like new condition (owner said it had only been used a few hours) for $1400... a price I was very happy to pay.

The machine is so simple I struggle to understand the $3k price tag, but in use they are worth every penny!!!


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## Hoosierheater (Jan 10, 2009)

How in the world do you folks lift 36" rounds onto the beam of a horizontal splitter?? I must be terribly feeble.


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## dieseldave (Jan 10, 2009)

Friend of mine just bought a new one and I managed to borrow it for a little while. It is incredible, especially when compared to my big box store hydraulic splitter. One problem we've had is getting it to return- the roller that supports the rack gets fouled and has to be constsntly cleaned out. What solutions do you longtime SS owners have?


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## johnha (Jan 10, 2009)

I'd like to see a video of how it handles a piece of knotty 20" diameter sycamore or oak before I'd give it a thumbs up. All that demo wood in the videos looks like stuff my hydraulic splits clean after only going 3" into a 20" log.

Interesting though.


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## trialanderror (Jan 11, 2009)

i've broke and bent so many of those little ones you buy for $3k....

so i built my own.

goes on the forks of my front end loader, snap-coupler into the loaders hydraulic system.
it's vertical so i don't have to blow out my back. i put the wedge on cylinder instead of the base. also made wedge 2ft wide, sometimes i run into a big one 

i finally threw my hands up when i bent the shaft of of 4 of those little tiny twig cylinders; always when they were ALLLLLMOST done splitting, and hit a knot, then *TWEAK* it's bent., so the 5th time i put on one with a 9" bore and 48" stroke. not sure of the push, must be in the 100 ton with a 2000psi releif? i had the formula somewhere. it splits a 3ft wide piece of knotty walnut like a hot knife through butter.

i like it. i can carry it around wherever the loader goes. pull some pins and it's horizonatal, so i can drive up to a massve bucked peice, lay it over it, pinch it in 1/2, they're easier to handle. 

dunno about you guys, but i HATE them little briggs engines, always an ass to try and start when cold. gutless at that.


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## Hoosierheater (Jan 11, 2009)

*Trialanderror*

Now that is a mansized splitter!! With a 9" cylinder and 2000psi you should be able to generate around 63.5 tons of force. Will you be coming to central Indiana with it soon? That is exactly what I need for some huge rounds of silver maple, elm and sycamore. Good job.


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## Wet1 (Jan 11, 2009)

Hoosierheater said:


> How in the world do you folks lift 36" rounds onto the beam of a horizontal splitter?? I must be terribly feeble.



I'm not sure why you would even try moving 36" wood at all, whether it be up on a horizontal splitter, over to a vertical, or even onto or out of the truck/trailer. Unless you have a skidsteer or a tractor, it makes no sense. Rather than try moving this size wood, I cut it in half,or even quarter it, with one of my big saws (3120, 880, 064, etc.). It only takes a minute to do and I don't have to struggle with it at all.

With that said, the SS tends to be suited better for wood (hardwood) under 24" or so. When you throw really big wood on there it sometimes takes two or three hits to break through it... so cutting it first makes it not only easier to handle, but also easier to split. But honestly, what percentage of the wood you handle that is >24"? I do get some biggies every so often, but the majority is certainly under 24".



dieseldave said:


> Friend of mine just bought a new one and I managed to borrow it for a little while. It is incredible, especially when compared to my big box store hydraulic splitter. One problem we've had is getting it to return- the roller that supports the rack gets fouled and has to be constsntly cleaned out. What solutions do you longtime SS owners have?



I had the same problem when I got mine. I was pretty irritated when I first got it, but after asking about it, I was told it was normal and that it would wear in with some use and become a non-issue... which turned out to be the case. Regardless, there are some tricks that you'll learn which can make this much less of an issue. First, I keep a 1" scraper on the machine (it fits perfectly on the left hand side of the back of the engine between the engine and the frame). Every so often I run the scraper down that 1/2" path the roller travels. It's important to keep this and the beam clean, especially when it's new. Don't forget to pull the rack out by hand every so often and scrape the beam behind where it rests as well. I also found spraying the beam down (and then wiping it) with WD40 makes a big difference. I spray the beam, under the rack, the wedge, and the production table down (and wipe it so there's no wet spots) before every use. You might want to spray the beam every so often until your SS loosens up. The other thing you can do is put some more tension on the springs, they can be adjusted under the engine. Do these things, and keep the beam clean, and you'll soon find this problem will disappear.



johnha said:


> I'd like to see a video of how it handles a piece of knotty 20" diameter sycamore or oak before I'd give it a thumbs up. All that demo wood in the videos looks like stuff my hydraulic splits clean after only going 3" into a 20" log.
> 
> Interesting though.


I have yet to find a piece of wood my SS wont split, but I might have to hit and move it several times to get through it. The key is to learn to read the wood and to disengage the rack quickly if it starts to struggle (and then reengage it a second later for another hit). There is a little bit of a learning curve with this, but once you spend a little time with the machine, you quickly learn what it will and wont do. It doesn't have much of a problem with small or medium size crotches (or knots), but it will struggle with large crotches. But again, if you position the wood correctly, it will go through it after a hit or two. But rather than mess with the really bad stuff, I cut the crotches flush with the saw when I'm bucking the logs so it wont be an issue when splitting. In the rare event I see something that I know it's going to be a major PITA to split, I'll just rip it with the saw. 

There's no doubt a medium or large hydraulic splitter will handle very large or knotty wood better than a SS, but the SS can typically handle it, and if not I have yet to find a piece of wood my saws wont go through with ease. But how often do I have to struggle to get the SS to go through something? Probably less than 5% of the time it takes a second hit. But the trade-off is that it will run circles around most hydraulic splitters the other 95% of the time... A trade-off I'm very happy and willing to accept!


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## Hoosierheater (Jan 11, 2009)

"I'm not sure why you would even try moving 36" wood at all, whether it be up on a horizontal splitter, over to a vertical, or even onto or out of the truck/trailer. Unless you have a skidsteer or a tractor, it makes no sense."
You make a very good point. I, however, have no choice in the matter. My neighbor works for a tree service and he brings me wood by the dump truck load. Many of the logs are 30"+ and 10-15 ft. in length. It is either a matter of having to utilize them or let them rot on the spot. I cut them in 16" sections and move them to my splitter (in the vertical mode) by using a cant hook. Very simple and a great workout for the shoulders. Bring your super split over and we'll have a contest.:greenchainsaw:


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## ericjeeper (Jan 11, 2009)

*a little advice*



Hoosierheater said:


> "I'm not sure why you would even try moving 36" wood at all, whether it be up on a horizontal splitter, over to a vertical, or even onto or out of the truck/trailer. Unless you have a skidsteer or a tractor, it makes no sense."
> You make a very good point. I, however, have no choice in the matter. My neighbor works for a tree service and he brings me wood by the dump truck load. Many of the logs are 30"+ and 10-15 ft. in length. It is either a matter of having to utilize them or let them rot on the spot. I cut them in 16" sections and move them to my splitter (in the vertical mode) by using a cant hook. Very simple and a great workout for the shoulders. Bring your super split over and we'll have a contest.:greenchainsaw:



When he dumps that big of log.. Put a 24 inch bar on your saw.. walk up to the butt end.. and make a vertical cut. This cut will be from the top down all the way through.Then make you buck cut to 16"-whatever length you burn. Now you will have two halves. one should fall each way. Then rip them into two pieces. Now you have four pieces small enough to handle.


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## STLfirewood (Jan 11, 2009)

Hoosierheater said:


> "I'm not sure why you would even try moving 36" wood at all, whether it be up on a horizontal splitter, over to a vertical, or even onto or out of the truck/trailer. Unless you have a skidsteer or a tractor, it makes no sense."
> You make a very good point. I, however, have no choice in the matter. My neighbor works for a tree service and he brings me wood by the dump truck load. Many of the logs are 30"+ and 10-15 ft. in length. It is either a matter of having to utilize them or let them rot on the spot. I cut them in 16" sections and move them to my splitter (in the vertical mode) by using a cant hook. Very simple and a great workout for the shoulders. Bring your super split over and we'll have a contest.:greenchainsaw:




Put 2 logs side by side the same size. I'll bring my chainsaw and super splitter you can have your saw,hydraulic splitter,and cant hook. The winner gets to sit back and watch the other finish while drinking beer. Here's the catch. You have to supply the beer. Because I'll have a six pack done by the time you finish. It really is that much faster. Like the other person said. Just rip the piece so you can handle it. I know if you have rounds there ready to split. I can split them faster then you can stack them in a truck.


Scott


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## STLfirewood (Jan 11, 2009)

dieseldave said:


> Friend of mine just bought a new one and I managed to borrow it for a little while. It is incredible, especially when compared to my big box store hydraulic splitter. One problem we've had is getting it to return- the roller that supports the rack gets fouled and has to be constsntly cleaned out. What solutions do you longtime SS owners have?



It also helps to elevate the front just a bit. I have a small block I put under the leg. This gives it a slight angle and helps the spring return the ram.

Scott


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## Hoosierheater (Jan 11, 2009)

*OK, I give*

You have convinced me that I should have a Super Split. Now, you guys decide which of you is willing to sell me your ss for $800. That is what I paid for my 22 ton Swisher and I must stay within a budget. I, of course, will pay for the shipping costs. Let me know when you have made a decision.


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## STLfirewood (Jan 11, 2009)

I'l sell you mine for $800. What's you address. So I can have it delivered. Shipping will be $1200.  

Scott


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## Hoosierheater (Jan 11, 2009)

*Thanks, Scott*

You are certainly a gentleman. How bout you giving me your address and I will just pick it up?? That $1200 seems a bit high!


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## STLfirewood (Jan 11, 2009)

Can't blame a guy for trying. Thought you might get a kick out of it. 


Scott


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## atvdave (Jan 11, 2009)

Just watched the video... WOW..


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## aterren (Jan 11, 2009)

The SS seem like the cats meow. If it were a year ago I think I'd be scrounging for the 3k but a lot has changed.... $2k sounds reasonable. Scott care to post some pictures so I can see what condition yours is in?  

I'm wondering if it would be feasible to build one (I own a lathe and mill). I've done a bit of research and I think I found the SS patent. It has long since expired.

Given I'm working 12 hrs a day, it's not likely I'll build one but I am curious to see the mechanisms under the hood. Would anyone within a reasonable drive of Stamford, CT be willing to indulge me? 

 

-Adrien


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## sawinredneck (Jan 11, 2009)

STLfirewood said:


> I'l sell you mine for $800. What's you address. So I can have it delivered. Shipping will be $1200.
> 
> Scott



$800 huh? I might could be convinced for a price like that! I think I could be there in about 6-8 hours.


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## Wet1 (Jan 11, 2009)

aterren said:


> I'm wondering if it would be feasible to build one (I own a lathe and mill). I've done a bit of research and I think I found the SS patent. It has long since expired.
> 
> Given I'm working 12 hrs a day, it's not likely I'll build one but I am curious to see the mechanisms under the hood. Would anyone within a reasonable drive of Stamford, CT be willing to indulge me?
> 
> ...


It would be pretty easy to build one, I thought about it as well. If I didn't find my SS, this is probably the route I would have taken. 

There is also a guy building a clone for almost half the price. I haven't seen his machine in person, but it certainly didn't look nearly as polished as the SS when I checked it out on his website many months ago. Although, the price and the product may have changed since then. I want to say the name of it was something like "Timber Wolf" and I believe he's located in VT or possibly NH. It's at least worth checking out if you want a similar machine w/o the hefty price tag. 

Keep an eye out for used machines as well, I saw (and missed) two others before I got mine. This was over a 6 month period. One, in RI, was electric and went for $400, and the other, in NH, was gas and went for $800. They have been making these for a long time, but I don't think they've made any significant changes in the design over the years. Because the design is pretty simple, there isn't much to wear or break on them so don't be concerned about the age of the machine should you find an older used machine.


I have one cord of oak left to split next weekend, you're welcome to come over and do the splitting and check out how the SS is built if you'd like. I'm in Clinton.


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## STLfirewood (Jan 11, 2009)

For that price you have to have it shipped andpay the $1200 shipping 

Scott


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## STLfirewood (Jan 11, 2009)

That was a joke also I would never part with it. I have thought about buying another one. There is a reason you see so few for sale.

Scott


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## sawinredneck (Jan 11, 2009)

STLfirewood said:


> That was a joke also I would never part with it. I have thought about buying another one. There is a reason you see so few for sale.
> 
> Scott



Tease!


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## cjnspecial (Jan 11, 2009)

Wet1 said:


> It would be pretty easy to build one, I thought about it as well. If I didn't find my SS, this is probably the route I would have taken.
> 
> There is also a guy building a clone for almost half the price. I haven't seen his machine in person, but it certainly didn't look nearly as polished as the SS when I checked it out on his website many months ago. Although, the price and the product may have changed since then. I want to say the name of it was something like "Timber Wolf" and I believe he's located in VT or possibly NH. It's at least worth checking out if you want a similar machine w/o the hefty price tag.
> 
> ...




One of the members here made one that looked pretty awesome, he hasn't been on here in a while.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=8590

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=6668&page=3


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## trialanderror (Jan 11, 2009)

Hoosierheater said:


> Now that is a mansized splitter!! With a 9" cylinder and 2000psi you should be able to generate around 63.5 tons of force. Will you be coming to central Indiana with it soon? That is exactly what I need for some huge rounds of silver maple, elm and sycamore. Good job.



once something pisses me off, i make sure it doesn't piss me off again 
that and i do things on the slightly larger scale  i don't toy around. i build stuff so it won't break. sometimes the best hardware is the stuff you build yourself, only because YOU know what your going to do with it.


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## dieseldave (Jan 11, 2009)

Wet1 said:


> I had the same problem when I got mine. I was pretty irritated when I first got it, but after asking about it, I was told it was normal and that it would wear in with some use and become a non-issue... which turned out to be the case. Regardless, there are some tricks that you'll learn which can make this much less of an issue. First, I keep a 1" scraper on the machine (it fits perfectly on the left hand side of the back of the engine between the engine and the frame). Every so often I run the scraper down that 1/2" path the roller travels. It's important to keep this and the beam clean, especially when it's new. Don't forget to pull the rack out by hand every so often and scrape the beam behind where it rests as well. I also found spraying the beam down (and then wiping it) with WD40 makes a big difference. I spray the beam, under the rack, the wedge, and the production table down (and wipe it so there's no wet spots) before every use. You might want to spray the beam every so often until your SS loosens up. The other thing you can do is put some more tension on the springs, they can be adjusted under the engine. Do these things, and keep the beam clean, and you'll soon find this problem will disappear.



I've been cleaning the beam with my pocketknife- the scraper is a good idea, save the knife for opening beer bottles- and spraying away with the WD40, it's good to hear that I've been heading in the right direction


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## johnha (Jan 12, 2009)

STLfirewood said:


> That was a joke also I would never part with it. I have thought about buying another one. There is a reason you see so few for sale.



Or maybe they're just rare? I've been a wood scrounge for ten years and never even heard of a SS before this thread.


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## Wet1 (Jan 12, 2009)

dieseldave said:


> I've been cleaning the beam with my pocketknife- the scraper is a good idea, save the knife for opening beer bottles- and spraying away with the WD40, it's good to hear that I've been heading in the right direction



I've found that a gasket scraper with a 45° angled head on it works even better (mine is a Mac and has about a 3/4" edge), but it's not as handy to keep in your pocket or on the SS w/o making a custom holder. The blade is sharper and the angle makes it nice for getting under the rack when you pull it out to clean under it. I use the gasket scraper at the end of the day and a 1" stainless steel putty knife during operation. 

I'm sure there are more (or better) ways to skin a cat, but this seems to work well for me.


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## CUCV (Jan 12, 2009)

aterren said:


> I know this is an older thread but I was wondering if anyone who owns a super split would be willing to post a few images of the rack engagement cam and release mechanisms.
> 
> Merry Christmas!
> 
> -Adrien



The rack engagement is a very simple linkage with a cam follower on the end of it. The linkage presses the rack down on the pinion then goes over toggle to lock it in for the forward cycle. At the end of the rack there is a chamfer which allows the linkage to release. The linkage can also release by the operator pressing down on the engagement lever.

I modified the linkage on my supersplit so that the operator input is forward and reverse instead of up and down. This sure helps the sore shoulder at the end of the day.


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## CUCV (Jan 12, 2009)

aterren said:


> The SS seem like the cats meow. If it were a year ago I think I'd be scrounging for the 3k but a lot has changed.... $2k sounds reasonable. Scott care to post some pictures so I can see what condition yours is in?
> 
> I'm wondering if it would be feasible to build one (I own a lathe and mill). I've done a bit of research and I think I found the SS patent. It has long since expired.
> 
> ...



Your welcome to come see mine in NH. I think it would be very easy to build your own if you have the resources. The only chalange I forsee is getting the rack material right. I had an earlier supersplit and bent the rack, the replacement rack I bought from the OEM looked and stood up much better. I have considered making a 4' version for years.

Actually I am looking to run a test and looking for some help. I just got a Powerhorse splitter (splitfire knock off) and want to run some side by side tests. Unforunately I broke my elbow and my curiousity is killing me. I wouldn't sell my supersplit for anything but another but I am curious about the two way splitter and I don't think I will be lending out my supersplit anymore. A friend who is experienced with the superspit (has over 50cord experience on mine) clipped off the ends of two fingers this summer. Learned a tough lesson shouldn't have friends hanging out chit chatting while he is running the splitter.


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 12, 2009)

Hoosierheater said:


> Everyone speaks very highly of these units. I, however, use the vertical mode with my Swisher probably 95% of the time. I see no evidence that you can place these in a vertical mode. Am I wrong or not??


You are correct. If you have to split some monster logs like the ones I cut, which are over 22" dia. and usually over 250 lb, the Super Split is a dead duck. That's MHO.

Vertical splitting is still a necessity, irrespective of speed, unless you love making bundles of curlies, wearing out saw chains, and using up lots of gas.


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## STLfirewood (Jan 12, 2009)

Wood Doctor said:


> You are correct. If you have to split some monster logs like the ones I cut, which are over 22" dia. and usually over 250 lb, the Super Split is a dead duck. That's MHO.
> 
> Vertical splitting is still a necessity, irrespective of speed, unless you love making bundles of curlies, wearing out saw chains, and using up lots of gas.




Chains are cheap and the super splitter will more then make up for your chain saw gas usage while quartering them. How many of you guys that split small can get 6-8 ranks of wood split on a tank of gas(normal tank) out of a hydraulic splitter. If I split is as big as some of you guys I could split well over 3 cord with a single tank of gas. Wood doc that log lift you made for your truck would work perfect for the super splitter. I have split 30plus inch elm with the SS. It will do the big stuff.

Scott


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 12, 2009)

STLfirewood said:


> Chains are cheap and the super splitter will more then make up for your chain saw gas usage while quartering them. How many of you guys that split small can get 6-8 ranks of wood split on a tank of gas(normal tank) out of a hydraulic splitter. If I split is as big as some of you guys I could split well over 3 cord with a single tank of gas. Wood doc that log lift you made for your truck would work perfect for the super splitter. I have split 30plus inch elm with the SS. It will do the big stuff.
> 
> Scott


Scott, thanks for remembering that log lifter, I use it all the time.






That's only a 16" dia. log above. Maybe you are right. I usually walk away from the monsters anyway these days. Super Split amazes me and it's compact, light in weight, easy to store, energy efficient, will run on either a gas engine or a 120v electric motor, and will split wood as fast as you can feed it and with no hydraulic mess. I worry about splitting elm, and I cut a lot of that (as shown). If SS can handle that brutal stuff, I'll get one for next year.


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## Wet1 (Jan 12, 2009)

Wood Doctor said:


> You are correct. If you have to split some monster logs like the ones I cut, which are over 22" dia. and usually over 250 lb, the Super Split is a dead duck. That's MHO.



"Monster" logs over 22"? Hmmmm, I haven't seen a "monster" log that the saws in your sig would normally handle that the SS can't work through. And for the rare tough customer that is so big it can't be moved, just cut the thing with a saw and then split it. I'll be the first to say the SS probably isn't for everyone, but some of you guys make it sound like the average log most people split is 36"+ diameter, knotty, and 800 lbs...


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 12, 2009)

Well, when over 22" dia. you cannot lift it. Nobody can except super strong guys, especially if the wood is green. Remember that the weight goes up four times as the diameter doubles. 

Anyway, people pooh pooh Super Split because (1) they fear lifting big logs to its platform level and (2) they think that crotch or elm will stall it out, (3) the price is about twice what they would pay for a hydraulic, and (4) getting a used one is next to impossible. Used hydraulics are everywhere.

Personally, I like the whole concept of the Super Split. Heck, it takes up less room than my 2-stage snow thrower.


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## dnf0929 (Jan 12, 2009)

We got some more snow over the weekend and they're calling for a deep freeze later in the week but today was beautiful and I had the day off so I took the new SS out for some fresh air and exercise. After reading all of these posts it might not be the right splitter for everybody but the one thing that is clear is that everyone who owns one is pretty pleased.


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## indiansprings (Jan 12, 2009)

Just a wild idea but a person could use a old square hay baler running off a tractor pto or a small engine to turn the pto and use a beefed up plunger arm as the splitting ram and the cut down bale chamber as a work platform, just torch off all the hay pick up side, it is the same basic principle with very minor modifications, they run 45 strokes minute up to 100 stokes a minute depending on the gear box and rpm of the input shaft. It would damn sure hit hard enough to split wood.


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## STLfirewood (Jan 12, 2009)

Wood Doctor said:


> Scott, thanks for remembering that log lifter, I use it all the time.



I always remember talent and you sir have that. I envy things like this because no matter how had I try I can;t make something work and be pretty. I could make one of those but it would look like crap. I know my limits and hen i see people with talent I respect it because I can't do it.

Scott


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## buildmyown (Jan 12, 2009)

My friends father has a SS that is about 30 years old and still works just fine. At one point in time back in the late 70's early 80's he had 5 SS. They were the heart of his firewood bus. He was running 5 splitters and 5 conveyers. 

I have not personally used it yet but I will come spring time. He says that it has split anything that he can get on the beam. For stuff that he cant get on the beam he will half it with the saw or half it with a maul and wedge.


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## STLfirewood (Jan 12, 2009)

indiansprings said:


> Just a wild idea but a person could use a old square hay baler running off a tractor pto or a small engine to turn the pto and use a beefed up plunger arm as the splitting ram and the cut down bale chamber as a work platform, just torch off all the hay pick up side, it is the same basic principle with very minor modifications, they run 45 strokes minute up to 100 stokes a minute depending on the gear box and rpm of the input shaft. It would damn sure hit hard enough to split wood.



I have seen this done and it does work really well. The only problem is it's either on or off. You can't stop it quick. It does work well though.

Scott


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## thejdman04 (Jan 13, 2009)

My question with the bailer splitter option is how would you center the wood on the wedge each and ever time? You would ahve to v the plunger and the bottom of the bale chamber to center each logg I would think


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## dieseldave (Jan 15, 2009)

Super Split bustin' up some white pine

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaeQuOa2fhE


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## sawinredneck (Jan 15, 2009)

dieseldave said:


> Super Split bustin' up some white pine
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaeQuOa2fhE



Which model is that? I like the handle better than the knob.
The rack not returning, is that what they were talking about needing the scraper to keep it clean?


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## jburlingham (Jan 15, 2009)

I have one that I inherited when my father passed away. I love it, and without a doubt I will never go back to a slow hydraulic again.


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## jburlingham (Jan 15, 2009)

sawinredneck said:


> Which model is that? I like the handle better than the knob.
> The rack not returning, is that what they were talking about needing the scraper to keep it clean?



The rack rides across the main beam and it can get munged up with wood and return poorly. Mine has a larger spring that replaced the stock one. 
but you can keep it clean very easy, scrape it off every so often and dont use a heavy oil or grease


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## STLfirewood (Jan 15, 2009)

dieseldave said:


> Super Split bustin' up some white pine
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaeQuOa2fhE




One of those blocks had knots on. I thought a SS couldn't split knots.

Scott


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## thejdman04 (Jan 16, 2009)

You have to remember those were pine logs, I wonder too why the rack doesnt return better than that, fairly new machine it looks like.


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## dnf0929 (Jan 16, 2009)

I WD-40 and scrape the beam regularly but the rack doesn't always fully retract. I usually find myself just giving it a tap with the piece I'm about to split and that does the trick. I don't find it to be much of an annoyance. One of these days maybe I'll go out and get a little stiffer spring.


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## xmitsu10 (Mar 17, 2009)

Wet1 said:


> It would be pretty easy to build one, I thought about it as well. If I didn't find my SS, this is probably the route I would have taken.
> 
> There is also a guy building a clone for almost half the price. I haven't seen his machine in person, but it certainly didn't look nearly as polished as the SS when I checked it out on his website many months ago. Although, the price and the product may have changed since then. I want to say the name of it was something like "Timber Wolf" and I believe he's located in VT or possibly NH. It's at least worth checking out if you want a similar machine w/o the hefty price tag.
> 
> ...



I bought the Wood Wolf this past Fall and split about 1.5 cord. Worked great for a novice like me. I had my own reason's for buying it and speed was not one of them. 1) It's manufactured just down the road from me. 2) Without the towing set up (wide axle), it fits through the 36" door of my walkout basement. Here's the link to the Wood Wolf site. http://thewoodwolf.com/. It's got a 6.5hp Honda clone engine and runs and operates great.


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## Wet1 (Mar 18, 2009)

xmitsu10 said:


> I bought the Wood Wolf this past Fall and split about 1.5 cord. Worked great for a novice like me. I had my own reason's for buying it and speed was not one of them. 1) It's manufactured just down the road from me. 2) Without the towing set up (wide axle), it fits through the 36" door of my walkout basement. Here's the link to the Wood Wolf site. http://thewoodwolf.com/. It's got a 6.5hp Honda clone engine and runs and operates great.



Yep, that's the SS knockoff I was referring to. It's not as polished as the SS, but it's the same basic machine at a lot less money. Looks like it would be hard to beat for $1500.


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## Wet1 (Mar 18, 2009)

dnf0929 said:


> I WD-40 and scrape the beam regularly but the rack doesn't always fully retract. I usually find myself just giving it a tap with the piece I'm about to split and that does the trick. I don't find it to be much of an annoyance. One of these days maybe I'll go out and get a little stiffer spring.



Like I mentioned earlier, it will loosen up with time. Mine very rarely does this anymore.


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