# small bandsaw mill



## gene1605

small easy to build bandsaw mill


----------



## gene1605

*more small mill*

last of the small mill


----------



## gene1605

*two more*

two more


----------



## qbilder

Very cool. Thanks for posting.


----------



## gene1605

Hi every one out there in sawmill land, first I would like to apoligize for my computer skills, or the lack of skills.
The above pictures are of my small band mill it will cut anything less than 24 in. and up to 17 ft 6 in long and any engine 6.5 hp to 13 hp, and can be built from new material for about $1000 and a few days work. It is very simple, hardy, easy to adjust and holds adjustment well, and will cut bevel siding.
There is many improvements that can incorporated to this mill but will increase the cost and the time to build.
In the past I tried to help some brother members build a mill but with my computer skills they got lost, I apologize.
Gene


----------



## 820wards

gene1605 said:


> small easy to build bandsaw mill




Can't wait to see something you've milled. Keep building.

jerry-


----------



## gene1605

Jerry I just build mills I usually make 1 cut just to check alignment, just put the pictures out maybe someone would like to build one, just copy it exactly all the bugs has ben worked out.


----------



## 820wards

gene1605 said:


> Jerry I just build mills I usually make 1 cut just to check alignment, just put the pictures out maybe someone would like to build one, just copy it exactly all the bugs has ben worked out.



Gene,

If you have any drawings with dimensions, that would help anyone wanting to copy your mill design.

jerry-


----------



## DangerTree

Yeah thats pretty cool a material take off and plan would be super dooper.


----------



## gene1605

*mini mill plans*

I build my mills from memory, and its going away fast, I have more pictures, and can give you any info. that you want.


----------



## parttime

gene1605 said:


> I build my mills from memory



And I can't remember where I put my truck keys You do some awesome work gene.


----------



## qbilder

Where in Alaska are you located? I used to live in Anchorage & have a lot of family there, as well as up in Ambler & Kotzebue. Coming up for a visit this summer, would love to see one of these mills & maybe learn a hint or two if you would be so willing. Food & booz on me


----------



## gene1605

Bilder, west diamond in Anchorage, same place 40 plus yrs, let me know, lota good coffee shops


----------



## TraditionalTool

Nice job on the mill.

I hear you guys get a free allotment of trees each year, if you file for a permit.

Building any homes? (log or timber)


----------



## qbilder

I know the area well. Have some family down off of John's rd. I'll look you up before I come up there.


----------



## BobL

Yeah real Nice work Gene, It would be good if you could try and retake some of the close up photos so they were better focussed (just take lots an pick the best ones).


----------



## mikeb1079

good stuff gene. thanks a bunch for posting pics. i'm very interested in building a fairly simple mill like this. couple of q's for you:

what size rims/tires?
approx how wide is the carriage?
do both wheels have the in/out adjustment for tracking or just one?
does the drive belt ride on the tire? or is there a pulley behind the tire?

any more photos would be great if you have the chance. thanks again.


----------



## Old Hilly

Hello folks, I just got an e-mail from Gene and it seems he is having some problems answering your questions die to some computer problems.
"Quote"
Dennis I posted sawmill pictures on the sawmill site and I must have did something wrong, anyway some guys are asking questions and I cant answer I would appreciate it if you would post on there and tell them to email me there address on the private message and I will answer, I must have broke a rule but don't know what, the story of my life, thanks Gene.
"End Quote"
From personal experience I can vouch for his knowledge and generosity when it comes to sawmills, I am working on one now and am using a fair few of Gene's ideas. He is, as we (oldies) say down here, a "top bloke".
Dennis.


----------



## gene1605

*I'm back*

OK I'm back I a several day blank spot in my computer, anyone wanting more pictures send a email address, I also have some poorly wrote plans that I can send
Gene


----------



## gene1605

*size*

Mike the frame is 1/8 in rectbuler tubeing 2 x 4 in 20 ft.
16 in tires on 8 in wheels on trailer hubs and spindles
frame , carriage and bunks are 24 in and the blade will cut a 18 in board and raise 22 in. 1/16 in. per click.
total weight is about 450 lb.
This little saw is solid doesn't shake or flex, it's a little 1 man pecker pole mill but will cut anything under 24 in, especially with a 13 hp. engine.
Gene


----------



## mikeb1079

> Mike the frame is 1/8 in rectbuler tubeing 2 x 4 in 20 ft.
> 16 in tires on 8 in wheels on trailer hubs and spindles
> frame , carriage and bunks are 24 in and the blade will cut a 18 in board and raise 22 in. 1/16 in. per click.
> total weight is about 450 lb.
> This little saw is solid doesn't shake or flex, it's a little 1 man pecker pole mill but will cut anything under 24 in, especially with a 13 hp. engine.
> Gene



ok thanks gene! i'm looking forward to trying to build this. gonna be fun 
i'll pm you my email if you get the chance send me your drawings. thanks again


----------



## gene1605

*address*

Tony I need A email address
Gene


----------



## poleframer

Hi Grampa  (Gene). I like your setup, been running a chainsaw mill, but have a dandy 10hp air cooled yanmar one banger diesel that would power a band mill of your design well I think. Couple questions. What size tires, and what is the center to center measurement? I have a 30" parks bandsaw in my shop that takes 1-1/2" x 16' long bands, it would be handy to use the same bands on both machines. 
Also, I see (I think) that you run the power belt off the engine wrapped around the tire, instead of a separate pulley. If that is so, I wonder if a flat, serpentine belt would work better. 
Sure appreciate the pics, I do better looking at picture details than drawn plans, as I can build in my head better than from a print, if I know what I'm aiming at. Maybe you could post some of the belt drive.
Thanks again, Russell


----------



## willbarryrec

Rep sent to you Gene!

Thanks.


----------



## gene1605

*some more pics, hopefully better*

Here you guys goView attachment 168327
View attachment 168328
View attachment 168329
View attachment 168330
View attachment 168331


----------



## betterbuilt




----------



## gene1605

Heres a few more.View attachment 169010
View attachment 169011
View attachment 169012
View attachment 169013
View attachment 169014


----------



## betterbuilt




----------



## Jredsjeep

thanks so much for sharing, i can really appreciate the simple straight forward nature of the design. i copied all the pics and would like to see if i can make one of these guys.

edit, after looking it over a bit can you tell us what are the bearings used for the blade guides and carriage? thanks!


----------



## poleframer

Ah, I see. The idler pulley keeps the belt tracking on the tire next to the band. I love the simplicity of this build. Steel is pretty expensive, if I get around to it I think I might go with BCI joists again, I got two 26' BCI s for $72.
I have a thread somewhere in here about my CSM on them (maybe someone could find it and link it for me, dont know how to link a thread). The way I set them up, only the weight of the carriage rides on them, the log is supported on jacks in between. I like that their light enough that I can dismantle the mill, and load them on my lumber rack for transportation. Also, the mill can be set up around the log, if needs be.
That brings the steel needs down to the carriage, most of which is smaller pieces that are more scroungable than lengths. I made my carriage out of an old bent lumber rack.
Good thread! Thankyou

PS, does this work? 
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=33784&referrerid=10520


----------



## DRB

poleframer said:


> PS, does this work?
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=33784&referrerid=10520


 
Yes that works. I remember your mill do you still use it?


----------



## poleframer

Oh, yea. Actually what I made it for in the first place was for smaller stuff. I wanted to surface one side for rafters and such. Here it is doing that on a house I've been working on.
http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww194/LogDork/025.jpg
http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww194/LogDork/2007_0113Image0019.jpg
http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww194/LogDork/sunroom1.jpg
http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww194/LogDork/johns.jpg
After the spruce decking went over the pole rafters, the whole thing got boxed off with BCIs to fill with R38 insulation, then a ply deck for the steel roof
http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww194/LogDork/9-28-1.jpg
http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww194/LogDork/8-24-2.jpg
I'll post more if anyone likes


----------



## DRB

Nice work. Looks a lot like BC

opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:


----------



## rarefish383

Yes, please post more. The BCI on the roof is such a simple fix for getting insulation in the roof and I would have never thought of it. Thanks, Joe.


----------



## Hillbilly Rick

Gene, that is one fantastic build. I need on about 36" as I have some big logs. Some are 49" in diameter, many between 39"-16". I know I'll have to reconfigure myself. How well does blade stay on the tires and the belt?


----------



## gene1605

*large band mill*

Rick a small mill is wayyyyyy more forgiveing to build and run than a big mill, I'm sure that if you enlarged my little mill to cut a 36 in. log it would never work right. A larger mill with a larger motor, a longer band you will need more band tension and more band speed. the carrage must be very rigid, about anyone can run and maintain a small mill, the larger mills need more experenced oporators.
I have built and sold many mills and have built and thrown away several because the frames were to weak, its hard to build a large simple neet mill that works well. Gene


----------



## Jredsjeep

would you mind if i put together some plans for this mill? i am a CAD designer so this is second nature and i have been playing with modeling it up in some of my spare time.

i am simply using the 16 tires as a reference on the sizing of the rest of the system so it will probubly be somewhat close but not quite a copy.


----------



## mikeb1079

jred that's a great idea. i've drawn up some simple plans from gene's design. i ordered the spindles/hubs and i plan to start cutting and fabricating soon. thanks again gene.


----------



## poleframer

I think the size of it is right up my alley. In my 090 mill I cant go past 24" in the carriage, and often have to trim edges of on stuff less than that to fit. Really wouldnt run this saw harder than that. 
Im probably still going to use the BCI rails. Do it a little different tho, think I'll set it up so the log gets bunked on the ground in adjustable jacks, then affix the rails to the sides, level them, and roll the bandmill onto the rails.
Any more pics you would be into posting would be appreciated, 
Thanks, Russell


----------



## gene1605

*building a small mill*

Anyone out there that wants to build or copy my little mill is welcome to do so, just keep in mind that I have made many mills before this one, and a lot of my good ideas on the first small mill wasent bad but, not as clean and simple as this one. I know that it's more intresting to use your on ideas, and I encourage you to do so, but thouse of you that want to copy this mill if you will send me a phone no I will call you [ I get free long distance ] and can explain building it mutch bettor. Gene 
ps the bearings
the 4 top wheels, are flanged hi speed sealed 1/2 in. x 1 3/8 x 7/16 thick
the rest 10 ea are 1/2 in x 1 3/8 x 7/16 thick sealed hi speed
I dont think that you could use these bearings for wheels on a wood frame


----------



## Hillbilly Rick

I guess I can quarter the logs ,had to do that before for the big mills around here.


----------



## huskyhank

Jredsjeep said:


> would you mind if i put together some plans for this mill? i am a CAD designer so this is second nature and i have been playing with modeling it up in some of my spare time.
> 
> i am simply using the 16 tires as a reference on the sizing of the rest of the system so it will probubly be somewhat close but not quite a copy.


 
I'd love to see this.


----------



## poleframer

Hey Rick, an alternative to quartering is to third them, I did this on some 30-36" fir, and it worked well. 
Freehand rip the log to roughly center, then roll it 1/3, then rip that to center, drop that piece out, and roll it over so the wide V is down, rip in half. 
If you stand these thirds on edge and slab, you get more wider vertical grain boards than with quarters.


----------



## Jredsjeep

i got a base down this weekend, it may not look like it but i probubly have about 8 hrs into this. i can already see where i will need more info or forge my own path. i will have to shoot my number over then when i get a little more established with what i need. i cant wait till i get farther allong, it usually holds that 90% of the work is in the last 10%

i am still not sure on how the belt is driving the one tire, it dousent look like it rides the tire and logic indicates to me that if it did both would want to ride up to the crown of the tire together. you can see where this would be a problem. so i am going with the assumption that there is a pulley on the backside of the tire.

i am going to have to see if i can find a motor model to work with. i have on old 8 hp briggs to measure off of but i am not sure the bolt pattern and shaft placememtn would match a newer motor.View attachment 170441


----------



## betterbuilt

Nice work.


----------



## gene1605

*measurement's*

Better built
You have a good start but need to add the size of each componant If I didn't send you the written plans let me know and will supply you with the measurements needed.
Gene


----------



## betterbuilt

Gene, that picture was Jredsjeep. I was just posting his picture for picture for him. It takes about the same time to add them to the thread, as it does to open them to look at them.


----------



## mikeb1079

here's a question for you guys (specifically gene): i'd like to be able to cut 24" wide. do you think that expanding your mill design another 6" (i believe you said it would cut 18") would work? the way i've drawn up my dimensions puts 24" between the inside edges of the bandwheels. it seems to me like that should work. i'm also thinking of making it a four poster instead of two. it won't take that much more time and i'm thinking that it may add a little stability?
any thoughts appreciated, as i'm itching to start cutting for this project!

insert random milling photo here:

12-20" wide bookmatched burr oak slabs and the best dog there ever was. (rip)


----------



## Hillbilly Rick

poleframer said:


> Hey Rick, an alternative to quartering is to third them, I did this on some 30-36" fir, and it worked well.
> Freehand rip the log to roughly center, then roll it 1/3, then rip that to center, drop that piece out, and roll it over so the wide V is down, rip in half.
> If you stand these thirds on edge and slab, you get more wider vertical grain boards than with quarters.


 
Thanks poleframer, never crossed my mind to cut 'em that way. Just got back home, was iced in while visiting relatives.


----------



## gene1605

*30 in. mill*

Mike enlargeing this little mill to 30 in. will work but it will require unproven changes, the frame bunks [ 1 in schedule 40 pipe ] may bend with larger logs, the, carrage frame will be taller and wider will be more flexible, it will not be a problem with large logs, but with small springy logs and will probly need a adjustible band guide for small logs and at least 10 hp. engine.
My little mill will cut a log less than 24 in. and will cut a 18 in. board. My 2 post frames are rock solid, some of my older mills would flex with smaller springy logs but my older brother and I have overcame that problem years ago. we build larger mills that will do what you want, but are harder to build, cost more to build, and we have no building plans except from memory and that's leaveing fast.
Gene
Gene


----------



## mikeb1079

ok gene, thanks for the feedback. i think i will stick to your specs. i'd rather have a stout smaller mill than a problem prone slightly larger one.
cheers
mb


----------



## rarefish383

bump de bump


----------



## poleframer

Bump, and a nutty idea?
Been thinking about making something like this as light as reasonably possible. What about using magnesium, or alloy 20" bmx wheels? maybe bore out the hubs for bigger bearings/axles? they should be stout enough, maybe use solid tires.


----------



## gene1605

*nutty idea*

Wont work
Gene


----------



## poleframer

Thanks for the reply Gene, anyone else I'd ask why, but you're the man with the plan, and the knowledge.
Still thinking of a system for two widths of cut, a wide track for the 090 for 36" width of cut, and a bandsaw like yours for 24".
It will be nice to make different uses of the diesel engine, put it on the snowthrower in the winter, sawmill in the summer. These yanmar engines go for a pretty penny, lots of torque for the size.


----------



## cowboyvet

Has anybody finished drawing up a set of prints with measurements yet? Can't build one today but love the idea and will be trying it in the future. Great work Gene and thanks.


----------



## mikeb1079

> Has anybody finished drawing up a set of prints with measurements yet? Can't build one today but love the idea and will be trying it in the future. Great work Gene and thanks


.

i started building mine last saturday. i'm still working out details but i'll keep you guys posted. if it works i'll post my measurements too. mine is going to be slightly different than gene's mostly due to the materials i'm using...


----------



## mikeb1079

got some quality shop time in this weekend. finished the basic carriage and headrig (for lack of better word). gotta nice 13hp motor comin from a friend and then i can weld the supports for it. even got the hubs welded on...






i decided to make it a four poster as i had enough square tube to do it. changed gene's design a little, hope it works. constructive criticism welcome.

rear view:


----------



## guyiknow

Not sure as how the drive belt is setup. Is there a groove in tire?


----------



## mikeb1079

i believe gene's design has the belt simply riding on the tire, behind the band. i think i'm gonna try mine this way first and then possibly tack a pulley onto one of the rims.
we'll see....


----------



## parttime

I was sure hoping to see some detailed plans, this would be an awesome project to build.:msp_sad:


----------



## rarefish383

bump


----------



## TMAR

*Video of one of Gene's mills*



HTML:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBX4Kl8ibRM&feature=player_detailpage


----------



## parttime

that's just about as neat as ever I saw. I have to build one. thanks for posting the video.


----------



## mikeb1079

hey gene, will you post a close up pic of how you attached the hand winch to the extension rod? the design i came up with leaves a bit to be desired...


----------



## gene1605

View attachment 185329
View attachment 185330
View attachment 185331
View attachment 185332
View attachment 185333
View attachment 185329
View attachment 185330
View attachment 185331
View attachment 185332
View attachment 185333


----------



## dookanooka

hi Gene, thanks so much for passing on your knowledge with this, it's very inspiring. I have a request and 3 questions I hope you'll answer for us all. Could you take a picture behind the wheel to see how the belt works? Questions are, is there a centrifugal clutch somewhere, what's the diameter of the pulleys and what size is the carriage tubing, it looks pretty chunky?


----------



## betterbuilt

[video=youtube;CBX4Kl8ibRM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBX4Kl8ibRM&feature=player_detailpage[/video]

Nice.


----------



## mikeb1079

thanks gene. that's the way i figured you set it up. my mistake was that i had the cable winding up around a pulley. problem is that it never winds up the same way twice. thus one side of the mill is higher or lower than the other. i redid my mill to copy yours. 

just an fyi for you guys that are wanting to build one of these. i've tried to take gene's design and add my own ideas and while it's been fun it's wasted alot of my time. gene has a good design and my one piece of hard earned advice is to simply copy gene's setup. unless you're very mechanically inclined and/or like to putter, it's way easier to build a proven mill than to reinvent the wheel. 
thanks again gene, and i'll post some pics of my progress soon...


----------



## parttime

mike, did gene send you a set of his plans to go by? or did you work from just the pictures? thanks


----------



## mikeb1079

> mike, did gene send you a set of his plans to go by? or did you work from just the pictures?



just pics.


----------



## mikeb1079

so i started out with a modified version of genes mill, basically making a four post version of his build. then i found some used woodmizer wheels on craigslist so i switched from using trailer tires to the actual bandsaw wheels. here's where im at right now...








the driven pulley is on the right side, i'm waiting on a sd bearing to adapt the 1" jackshaft to the other woodmizer wheel (not shown). i also need a nut to keep the clutch on the motor shaft. that's the gas tank on the back bracket, still need some gas line to the motor (16 hp briggs) i did still use gene's design for the raise/lower function. works well. just thought i'd share my progress...


----------



## parttime

wow mike, looks like your about ready to saw. thanks for the updates.


----------



## mikeb1079

so i got some time to work on the track this weekend. it's 2x6 steel for the rails and 2x4 for the cross pieces. was curious if my little chop saw would be able to cut it, but she did just fine. was a little fussy setting up everything square plumb and level but i think it turned out pretty good! i spaced it so that i'll have angle iron tacked to the bed at 28 1/2" on center, then the mill carriage will ride on the edge of the angle iron. also gonna weld a tongue and put an axle under the frame. it's damn heavy. oh, also gonna add 6 jacks for stabilizing/leveling. cheers
mb

getting set up:






all the cross members tacked:






not perfect but plenty close for me:


----------



## mikeb1079

so i got some more time to work on the mill this weekend. tacked the angle iron to the main track. got the v groove wheels mounted (although they need some fine tuning), got the saw head up on the track, and started on the making the frame for the guards as well as the setup for the guide bearings.






here's the adjustable guide bearing setup, the other side will be fixed. i just need to drill and tap the sliding piece (which will replace the quick clamp) to bolt onto the guide assembly that my buddy made for me.






it's tough to see in the pic but the bearings are mounted off center on a shaft so that when you turn the center shaft you can adjust the bearings up or down (or in the case of the rear bearing in or out) i think they're gonna work really well. the drive pulley is still not true to the shaft so i've got to work some more on that. it's imparting too much vibration to the saw. can't wait to cut some lumber....


----------



## TMAR

*Thank you Gene!*

My new Mill- almost completed...


----------



## TMAR

*...A few more*


----------



## parttime

Tmar, your looking good. won't be long now.


----------



## mikeb1079

sweet! i didn't know someone else was making a gene inspired mill. nice work! looks like you also used garage door opener rollers for the winch pulleys. nice.


----------



## joeblacky

i dont suppose anyone would be able to suggest some good wheels to use for running along the rails? im having trouble finding any decent ones


----------



## TMAR

joeblacky said:


> i dont suppose anyone would be able to suggest some good wheels to use for running along the rails? im having trouble finding any decent ones


 
That depends on what you are using for the rails.


----------



## joeblacky

done a little more research, and decided on V groove gate wheels running on angle, should be a smooth method


----------



## TMAR

joeblacky said:


> done a little more research, and decided on V groove gate wheels running on angle, should be a smooth method


 
Sounds good!


----------



## AndrewMoizer

*Awesome*

Just found this topic, lots of great info here. I've had it in the back of my mind to build a bandsaw head to go on the track for my new (to me) CSM that I'm just starting with. Sure looking forward to following everyone's progress.

My immediate need is to update the log dogs on my track. It looks like adding some like this would be a great (and simple) solution. I'd welcome any insight on how they work out in use.

cheers,
Andrew


----------



## AndrewMoizer

*Log Dogs?*

I'd like to make some log dogs like these to fit on my CSM.





I scaled this picture as best as I could and would like to make sure I've got things right.

Cross tube is 1" sch 40 pipe
Sliding tubes are 1 1/4" sch 40 pipe, 3" long.
Flats that swing upright (must be an official name for them) are 1 1/2" flat stock, I'm guessing 1/4" thick. The one with the point on it is 6" long, the other one is about 6 1/2" long.

The low points I think are 1/4" thick and maybe 1/2" high. I think they're flat stock cut at an angle, but aren't quite sure. Would these be something harder like perhaps keystock?

The point at the end of the upright is harder to figure out. In the painted picture it almost looks like a chunk of 3/8 round bar, but in this pic there seems to be an edge to it. It almost looks like a ground off woodruff key. Regardless it seems that all the points stick out about 3/8".

It looks like the tightening bolts are 1/2" with 3/8" round stock handles.

Oh, and the stop bar that stops things swinging down too much is 3/4" round.

Perhaps Gene, or someone else, could fill in any gaps.

My plan is to weld a few of these up with mounts that I can bolt to the 3" cross pipes on my frame. I'm also more than open to other suggestions.

cheers, (and thanks in advance)
Andrew


----------



## mikeb1079

here's my version:

just angle iron cut into flat stock (didn't have any). drill oversize hole in sliding piece and weld nut over hole. weld round stock to nut for t handle. my bolts are too long and you only need one t handle to tighten the dog down. i thought i'd need two but one is plenty. just make sure to orient it like gene does so when the long dogs are horizontal the short dogs are upright and the t handle is pointing down. otherwise the long dogs will hit the cross members of the bed and you have to grind out your weld and re do it (when its 100 degress with 80% humidity don't ask me how i know that). :msp_rolleyes: originally the tall dogs were 12" tall but they seemed to be in the way a bit so i cut em down to 8". the shorties are like 5/8"


----------



## mrstihl

*from denmark*

hi nice mill you have built but how long is your sawband and can you not send me some pictures of details if you know what i mean, i`m not very god at english but i hobe you would help me. Jan Schultz


----------



## mikeb1079

hey jan the band length isn't that important. there's plenty of blade suppliers that can make bands to any length. the mill i built uses longer bands (b/c i found some larger wheels) but most mills this size use somewhere around 158" i believe. gene never produced dimensioned drawings but that's not that important either. look close at his pics and you can figure it out.


----------



## mrstihl

mikeb1079 said:


> hey jan the band length isn't that important. there's plenty of blade suppliers that can make bands to any length. the mill i built uses longer bands (b/c i found some larger wheels) but most mills this size use somewhere around 158" i believe. gene never produced dimensioned drawings but that's not that important either. look close at his pics and you can figure it out.



Thank you thats help me alot but the 158" what is that in CM (158 * 2,5=) is it like that or ? but else i thank you alot


----------



## gene1605

*Small mill*

Jan send me your e mail address on private mail, I will send you whatever information that I still have, maby even some poor plans for a good little mill.
Gene


----------



## redheadwoodshed

mrstihl said:


> Thank you thats help me alot but the 158" what is that in CM (158 * 2,5=) is it like that or ? but else i thank you alot



Jan, 158 inches = 401.3cm.


----------



## mikeb1079

jan take gene up on his generous offer. :msp_thumbup:

gene i'm not sure if i ever got the chance to personally thank you for posting your mill and ideas. it led me to build my own mill and it was both challenging and rewarding. i've used the mill a ton and have had a lot of fun and met some nice folks too! thanks much!


----------



## Old Hilly

Yes, Gene is what we call down here "a top bloke". I contacted him when this post was new for some advice on the mill I was going to build and he was more than helpful with all the advice and his experience of building his design of sawmill. I chose a slightly diferent design using cast 26" bandwheels and a diferent head design but there are a lot of Gene's ideas in my design. There are some items in his design that are easy to find up there in Alaska and North America but are much harder to find down here where I live so my design centered around what was available locally or I had available to me cheap.
Gene, thanks again, Old Mate.
Dennis.


----------



## nelson45

*pecker pole mill*

Hello Gene



I found your mill on you tube, I just about giving up on homemade band sawmill, most too big, and look unrebilable. Yours is sized right for me, looks very reliable, and well designed. I will build your mill, using all new material, copying your design as accurately as possible, and power with 13 hp chonda. I thank you for your design, photos, and information you posted. If you would be graceous enough to send me your plans it would greatly expedite and improve my project.



Thank

Jm Nelson

[email protected]

707 365 8616

p.s. Your PM box is full


----------



## Old Hilly

Jim, almost all of Gene's plans are, as he mentioned in a much earlier post, in his head. Some of the photographs he sent me had dimensions of some of the smaller parts but I think that almost evry mill he builds is slightly diferent. He modified one of his mill designs to operate as a "hot-wire cutter" for shaping styrene insulation sheets. Get rid of the band and wheel assy. and fit a length of resistance wire driven by a small welder. You have a hot wire cutter. Simple enough if you already have the frame and chasis already designed.
Some of the parts he has available up there in Alaska just are not as easy to find in what was once this little ex Penal Colony down here in NSW, Australia so I had to improvise a fair bit. Added to this, the timber I wanted to cut was larger than Gene has allowed for so things were enlarged and strengthened. Gene used 12" rim size trailer tyres (sometimes I think he uses 10") for his band wheels but I used 26" cast iron bandsaw wheels. Gene's design runs the drive belt directly onto one of the band-wheels, my design uses an idler shaft so I can get more speed reduction and drive the bandwheel from the back-side of the mill-head frame. I copied Gene's band guides but used threaded rod to adjust the blade tension on the non-driven wheel side. Gene uses a steel tape measure to set his cutting depth but my math is pretty poor so I used a digital readout for the depth of cut. Just wind down the required No. of MM's and start sawing. Bring the haed back to the start, zero the DRO, wind down the depth of the next board and away you go.
You can actually get a reasonable idea of the size of Gene's mill by measuring the size of the drive wheels and then working out the sacle of the photo. It took me a few tries but I eventually got it worked out. Then I changed evrything because if the materials I had available.
Good luck with your build, it can be frustrating but when that first board comes off the log........
Wow! You did it!:msp_thumbsup:
Dennis.


----------



## mrstihl

*5 kw*

hello gene can a 5 kw with 2900 rpm do it as well like a honda engine, can i get the same NM on a elektrick motor Jan


----------



## gene1605

*5 kw*



mrstihl said:


> hello gene can a 5 kw with 2900 rpm do it as well like a honda engine, can i get the same NM on a elektrick motor Jan



Jan 5 kw is about 7 1/2 hp. each will work with a small mill, with small logs.
Gene


----------



## nelson45

Thanks for the infomation Dennis, I plan on building the small mill the one in the video. I get about six feet of snow pack, so need to store the mill inside, and don't have lot room. I was going to build a chain sawmill because all the bandsaw mills I had seen were too big. I was delighted when I found Gene's small mill on you tube, just what I have been looking for, and when video started, he not pushing hard, its working as well as any of the production mills on youtube. I could tell right away Gene had his design optimize way better then any of other designs I had look at.
The small size will work good for me, what does'nt fit the mill is less fire wood i'll have to buy. the photos are great, I setup a slide show, and been studing the details of Gene's and Rail-o-matic mills, for about hour a night last few nights, and I think I get. The height of carriage, looks about 36", and wall thickness looks like 1/8" which is thinner than thought it would be. The wheel bar looks 2x2 .250 wall in the pic of the small mill. The feet I say 28" 2 x 3 x 1/8 angel which is also thin. Gene welds up his carriage post so the width is narrower at the bottom, snap on fit at the feet, I would like to know how much less he jigs up bottom than the top. If I get it, this snap on fit reduces head shake and makes for a solid carriage. Gene has done the R&D , I understand from reading his post that he has a few pages of plans drawn up for the small mill. I would like to get a copy, it will save time and optimize my build.
I have sent santa after the axles, wheels, bearings, pulleys, clutch, and engine. I have most of the steel for carriage in the shop, so santa will only have get rails and few odds & ends. Dennis DRO great idea, they come way down in price last few years.
Gene If I could get your phone # and may be a copy of your plans for the small mill. I would appreciate it, I don't want change any part of your design, its the small details that make it work so well. i just want to copy copy copy!

Thanks

[email protected]
707-365-8616


----------



## Old Hilly

Six feet of packed snow!?!? How do you exist in such cold? Down here we whinge and complain about the cold if we get a decent frost!!!:censored: You lot up there in the far north have got to be tough!
That 5KW electric should do a good job provided you take it easy. The blade needs to be cutting timber, not just getting hot while it skips across the surface. After a little while you will get to know the sound of the blade when it is cutting properly and when it is getting a bit dull.


----------



## gene1605

*small mill*



nelson45 said:


> Thanks for the infomation Dennis, I plan on building the small mill the one in the video. I get about six feet of snow pack, so need to store the mill inside, and don't have lot room. I was going to build a chain sawmill because all the bandsaw mills I had seen were too big. I was delighted when I found Gene's small mill on you tube, just what I have been looking for, and when video started, he not pushing hard, its working as well as any of the production mills on youtube. I could tell right away Gene had his design optimize way better then any of other designs I had look at.
> The small size will work good for me, what does'nt fit the mill is less fire wood i'll have to buy. the photos are great, I setup a slide show, and been studing the details of Gene's and Rail-o-matic mills, for about hour a night last few nights, and I think I get. The height of carriage, looks about 36", and wall thickness looks like 1/8" which is thinner than thought it would be. The wheel bar looks 2x2 .250 wall in the pic of the small mill. The feet I say 28" 2 x 3 x 1/8 angel which is also thin. Gene welds up his carriage post so the width is narrower at the bottom, snap on fit at the feet, I would like to know how much less he jigs up bottom than the top. If I get it, this snap on fit reduces head shake and makes for a solid carriage. Gene has done the R&D , I understand from reading his post that he has a few pages of plans drawn up for the small mill. I would like to get a copy, it will save time and optimize my build.
> I have sent santa after the axles, wheels, bearings, pulleys, clutch, and engine. I have most of the steel for carriage in the shop, so santa will only have get rails and few odds & ends. Dennis DRO great idea, they come way down in price last few years.
> Gene If I could get your phone # and may be a copy of your plans for the small mill. I would appreciate it, I don't want change any part of your design, its the small details that make it work so well. i just want to copy copy copy!
> 
> Thanks
> 
> [email protected]
> 707-365-8616





Jim the plans will be mailed today, But remember as Old Hilly said I improve my mills as I go useing the KISS system.
I have plans for Danger Tree I just need a US Mail address 

Gene


----------



## krashlnd

*AWESOME How do I purchase a set of plans?????*

Hello Gene, 
I am very interested in a set of your plans. How much are you charging for a set? I own automatedwoodworks and would love to be able to cut out my own boards.
Thanks Steve Marsh


----------



## gene1605

*mill plans*



krashlnd said:


> Hello Gene,
> I am very interested in a set of your plans. How much are you charging for a set? I own automatedwoodworks and would love to be able to cut out my own boards.
> Thanks Steve Marsh



Steve I will put the plans in the mail monday, I have made a few changes in the mill if you decide to build one give me a call.
Gene


----------



## krashlnd

gene1605 said:


> Steve I will put the plans in the mail monday, I have made a few changes in the mill if you decide to build one give me a call.
> Gene





Gene you are very kind. I do believe I will give it a go. 
Thanks Steve


----------



## krashlnd

*Plans arived thanks gene*

Just received my plans this morning. Gene wish there was some way to compensate you on your time. These are very easy to follow. You are the man. 
Ill shoot some pictures of my progress along the way.
Steve


----------



## Jredsjeep

I am looking to get back into this project. Santa helped me get a new welder this Christmas season so i would like to make a go at this. I think I have most of the layout figured out in my 3D models but want to make sure. i have never built or run a mill so i would hate to make a stupid mistake. i have most of the metal on hand along with the axles and wheels.

i suppose one of my simple questions is the bunk width is measured at 24", is that the measured width from outside rail to outside rail the carridge assembly rides on?

right now i have a old 8 hp briggs that i might use. does anyone know if that base would be the same if i later upgrade to a ~15hp class engine. i want to make it upgradable.

is this mill designed on a certain length blade? i know custom sizes are not a dealbreaker but would like to know if i have a target to shoot for.

i sent Gene a PM, hopefully I can get myself straightened out.


----------



## lps8

*horsepower vs cutting speed*

I have a question about cutting speed and what hp motor to get. I have a chainsaw mill now that is as fast cutting as some of the smaller bm I see on yt. I am looking to cut faster in addition to cutting down on loss to kerf with the chain saw.

Will a larger motor cut faster than some I have seen and how large?

Larry


----------



## TMAR

lps8 said:


> Will a larger motor cut faster than some I have seen and how large?



I am using a 6.5 HP motor on Procut rail. I have cut around 15,000 bf with it this past year. It _works_, but 10-13 HP is recommended. The higher HP won't bog down (affecting speed) in the big butts. Looks like you are running a Procut style CSM- probably a 24" cut - I'd say 10 - 13 HP would be plenty if you're going to use the same rail.

T


----------



## lps8

*tmar, thanks for the info*



TMAR said:


> I am using a 6.5 HP motor on Procut rail. I have cut around 15,000 bf with it this past year. It _works_, but 10-13 HP is recommended. The higher HP won't bog down (affecting speed) in the big butts. Looks like you are running a Procut style CSM- probably a 24" cut - I'd say 10 - 13 HP would be plenty if you're going to use the same rail.
> 
> T



Yes, it is a Procut design frame. Thanks for the info.

Larry


----------



## BIG JAKE

TMAR said:


> I am using a 6.5 HP motor on Procut rail. I have cut around 15,000 bf with it this past year. It _works_, but 10-13 HP is recommended. The higher HP won't bog down (affecting speed) in the big butts. Looks like you are running a Procut style CSM- probably a 24" cut - I'd say 10 - 13 HP would be plenty if you're going to use the same rail.
> 
> T



TMAR-how is the mill working for you? Any feedback on design type issues you've had? I am getting close to starting on one thanks to Gene sending me than plans and all. I have a 13 hp honda, and much of the steel I need except the rails. I'm wheeling and dealing my way forward with this to cut costs. What are you doing with all the lumber you're milling? You and Mike1079 need to post some videos!


----------



## mikeb1079

> I'm wheeling and dealing my way forward with this to cut costs. What are you doing with all the lumber you're milling? You and Mike1079 need to post some videos!



i'll try. i've got some nice hickory logs waiting on me to mill. i'll have to rig up something to hold my phone in place. lol


----------



## lps8

*order a motor for the Gene Mill*

Order a 15 or 16 hp electric start motor for converting my csm to bsm.

Gene was good enough to send me instructions and pics of the mill. I am not a draftsman, but if I have time, I am going to make drawings of the parts which I will forward to Gene. I feel as they are his design, so he can sell them or give them away with them, as he pleases. 

More later

Larry


----------



## nelson45

*pecker pole mill*

View attachment 277264
View attachment 277265
View attachment 277263


gene1605 said:


> Jim the plans will be mailed today, But remember as Old Hilly said I improve my mills as I go useing the KISS system.
> I have plans for Danger Tree I just need a US Mail address
> 
> Gene



Thanks gene

some pictures of my start


----------



## nelson45

*pecker pole mill*



nelson45 said:


> View attachment 277264
> View attachment 277265
> View attachment 277263
> 
> 
> thanks gene
> 
> some pictures of my start



a few more
View attachment 277436
View attachment 277437
View attachment 277438


----------



## BIG JAKE

Looking good Nelson-keep us posted opcorn:


----------



## Jredsjeep

Awesome progress, I wish I was that far along. Two jobs 4 kids and volunteer firefighting keep me to busy sometimes.


----------



## lps8

*drawings of Gene's mill*







Have been working on drawings of Gene's mill for my use and Gene gave me permission to put them up. Will post as I finish them.


----------



## lps8

*Gene's mill guides drawing*






Here is a drawing of guides. Any questions, I will try to answer based on drawings, but Gene is man.

Larry


----------



## Rio_Grande

Thanks for this post. After pricing custom sawing we are seriously considering this. What is the distance axle to axle?


----------



## nelson45

Rio_Grande said:


> Thanks for this post. After pricing custom sawing we are seriously considering this. What is the distance axle to axle?



38"


----------



## rskybiz

Nelson many thanks for your input here! I am underway with the build of my mill. I have aquired a concrete bandsaw that had a 17" throat opening. I am planning to obtain a min of 36" and be able to saw 20 footers. A couple questions still keep coming up in my mind any insight would be greatly appreciated. First in my search is trying to find a standard band, over custom length. I see 167" bands but that seems to be the longest without special length. Are longer bands standard? Or will I be purchasing special order. Needing to figure this part out before I start my carriage. Many thanks Joel


----------



## Rio_Grande

Are the wheels on the bottom of the carriage a bearing? Or are they a wheel? Thanks


----------



## gene1605

*carrage wheels*



Rio_Grande said:


> Are the wheels on the bottom of the carriage a bearing? Or are they a wheel? Thanks



The side wheels, and the guide bearings are 1621 sealed bearings. The carrage top wheels are hi speed sealed flanged bearings 1/2" shaft 7/16 x 1 3/8
Gene


----------



## nelson45

rskybiz said:


> Nelson many thanks for your input here! I am underway with the build of my mill. I have aquired a concrete bandsaw that had a 17" throat opening. I am planning to obtain a min of 36" and be able to saw 20 footers. A couple questions still keep coming up in my mind any insight would be greatly appreciated. First in my search is trying to find a standard band, over custom length. I see 167" bands but that seems to be the longest without special length. Are longer bands standard? Or will I be purchasing special order. Needing to figure this part out before I start my carriage. Many thanks Joel



Hello joel

If I was looking to build a sawmill with a 36" throat, I would buy plans from linn lumber $ 50 he got the bugs all worked out. If you are going to build your design, ask Gene 1605 advice, he has built many sawmills. I am still working on my first mill. Custom lenght blades are no big deal.

best of luck


----------



## Rio_Grande

Thanks gene,. I sent you a private message.


----------



## lps8

*more drawings of Gene's mill*

I have finished another drawing of Gene's mill, but my frame is 37" wide so measurements are a little different, but the basic construction is according to Gene's plans that he was so good to send me. I basically did the drawings to familiarize myself to the build, but Gene was good enough to allow them to be posted.







View attachment 279308


----------



## nelson45

*pecker pole mill*



nelson45 said:


> a few more
> View attachment 277436
> View attachment 277437
> View attachment 277438



Cut some wood

look likes another of Genes mills https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWYHJKDB38s&feature=player_detailpage


----------



## Rio_Grande

ThanksGene!


----------



## mrstihl

*Rpm on band*

Hello Gene dó you know how fast the band spin rpm. So i Can find out the gearing on the motor thanks jan (Mr stihl)


----------



## gene1605

*band speed*



mrstihl said:


> Hello Gene dó you know how fast the band spin rpm. So i Can find out the gearing on the motor thanks jan (Mr stihl)



Jan the band speed is the same as the engine pulley speed, the v pulley diameter times 3.14 will give the band speed. just use a 3 1/2 or 4 in. pulley.
Gene


----------



## mrstihl

gene1605 said:


> Jan the band speed is the same as the engine pulley speed, the v pulley diameter times 3.14 will give the band speed. just use a 3 1/2 or 4 in. pulley.
> Gene



Yes but i have a 6,9 kw 1740 rpm and a wheel where is in dia. 58 cm how Big woud the wheel be on the motor in cm if you understand what i mean jan.


----------



## mrstihl

mrstihl said:


> Yes but i have a 6,9 kw 1740 rpm and a wheel where is in dia. 58 cm how Big woud the wheel be on the motor in cm if you understand what i mean jan.



Yes but i have a 6,9 kw 1740 rpm and a wheel where is in dia. 58 cm how Big woud the pulley on the motor be in cm, if you understand what i mean jan. i`d just found out what pulley is, sorry my english


----------



## gene1605

*band speed*



mrstihl said:


> Yes but i have a 6,9 kw 1740 rpm and a wheel where is in dia. 58 cm how Big woud the pulley on the motor be in cm, if you understand what i mean jan. i`d just found out what pulley is, sorry my english



Old Hilley
I'm not sure what Jan is asking, and dont want to give a unclear answer could you help me out Gene


----------



## parttime

could be he's using an electric motor and looking for a way to slow down the 1750 rpms? different language makes thing tuff.


----------



## gene1605

*band speed*



parttime said:


> could be he's using an electric motor and looking for a way to slow down the 1750 rpms? different language makes thing tuff.



He is useing a 1740 rpm motor and wants the same band speed as a 3600 rpm engine with a 4 in pulley, I dont understand what 58 cm wheel he is talking about.


----------



## parttime

I thought he meant the size of the tire that the band rides on, 58cm would be about 23" tire.

wants to know what size pulley to put on the motor. Maybe?


----------



## mrstihl

parttime said:


> I thought he meant the size of the tire that the band rides on, 58cm would be about 23" tire.
> 
> wants to know what size pulley to put on the motor. Maybe?




yes it`s the size of my wheels 58cm and i would like to know the size of my pulley to get 3600 rpm with a engine that runs 1740 rpm that will be nice thanks jan (denmark)

and something else a wood planer to a chainsaw is that made ?. And can i put it on a stihl 026 ?. and where can i buy it ?.


----------



## gene1605

*band speed*



mrstihl said:


> yes it`s the size of my wheels 58cm and i would like to know the size of my pulley to get 3600 rpm with a engine that runs 1740 rpm that will be nice thanks jan (denmark)
> 
> and something else a wood planer to a chainsaw is that made ?. And can i put it on a stihl 026 ?. and where can i buy it ?.



Jan, a 8 in. pulley should be very close, dont know the metric size.
Gene


----------



## mrstihl

hey Gene how did you found out the size, the match janView attachment 283249
View attachment 283250
View attachment 283251


----------



## mrstihl

View attachment 283252


----------



## mrstihl

View attachment 286539
View attachment 286540
View attachment 286541
View attachment 286542

i just found a motor a 10 hp with 2900 rpm, one of my work figured out pulley should be 25 cm to reach 22 m/sek and here are some new pictures of my last work on the mill jan.


----------



## jrcat

Hello, my name is James. I would like to build a mill and have been checking some out recently.How can I get a set of plans from you Gene, and what is required? 

thanks, James


----------



## happymcc

*Mill vertical guides*

What are the bolts ( adjustments ) on the verical guides that move up and down for ? 
Are they used to adjust the angle of attack of the blade into the log or just to take up slop ?


----------



## gene1605

*blade adjustment*



happymcc said:


> What are the bolts ( adjustments ) on the verical guides that move up and down for ?
> Are they used to adjust the angle of attack of the blade into the log or just to take up slop ?



The oporator side bolt is to adjust the attack angle of the blade, the other side is to take up slack.
They can both do the same thing but the adjusting bolt is 1/2 x 20 thread the other is 13 thread.
Gene


----------



## happymcc

Thank you 
i am working on a mill now and have used a lot of your ideas . 
I went to a 12 inch wheel making the tire dia . 20.5 inch . 
We are planning on a 28 inch distance between the tires and a 49 inch distance from axle to axle . 
I know this was designed for 18 inch with 8 inch rims but we want to cut 32 inch logs . 
I am going with 4 post system and made the bed out of 3 x 6 tube 3/16 wall . 
Any input would be welcome .


----------



## mrlynx

Hello 

Gene has a neat looking design on his sawmill.
I am planning to build my own bandsawmill this summer.
At the moment am I drawing it up in solidworks and looking for plans of Genes design.

//Robert

View attachment 296625


----------



## Jay42

This is a great thread! One day I hope to build one of these.


----------



## scor440

*bandsaw mill plans*

Enjoy these if you want to use them


----------



## Funktionhouse

I scored this from a friend last week. Gene's plans for the carriage and track should make milling with this much easier. Thanks Gene 

View attachment 298503

View attachment 298504


----------



## nelson45

*pecker pole mill*

My Mill painted


----------



## parttime

great pictures nelson, you've done a great job.


----------



## gene1605

*small mill*



nelson45 said:


> My Mill painted



Nelson your little mill looks great, especily the band guard, If I build another one I would like to copy it.
Gene


----------



## nelson45

gene1605 said:


> *small mill*
> 
> 
> 
> Nelson your little mill looks great, especily the band guard, If I build another one I would like to copy it.
> Gene[/quote  Hello: Gene I want to thank you and part time for your kind words, I would have responded sooner,however the form got hacked,and I got side tracked. I am very pleased with the mill, it work well right from the start and required very little adjustment, I am sure this is due to carefully following your instructions [ build it Gene's way ] I had most of the steel and engine so, I only have about $ 500. in the mill, it took me about 40 hours to build it. Gene builds it in 20 hours, the guard I built uses gene simple mounting system, same guard a little more steel. Gene, thank so much Jim Nelson


----------



## Richard C

Hi, I see no date on the above posts, don't know how active they are. 

I'm working on a mill now, wouldn't mind being able to see more of the bandmill shafts and their attachments. 

I have 19" pulleys for band wheels, shafts and pillow blocks and an 18hp kohler engine.


----------



## nelson45

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/posts/4226536/ Hello: Richard My mill is built with trailer hubs welded to a hinge and runs small trailer tires. Your mill will be much more like a linn sawmill check out the link above, if your not to far along you should buy plans from linn lumber. Many mills have been built from these plans and the builders give it good reviews, just google linn lumber. Jim


----------



## Dale Niggemann

nelson45 said:


> *pecker pole mill*
> 
> My Mill painted


Awesome mill. I am looking at building one. I was wondering if I could get some plans on how to build it. I like how compact and simple it is. Are you pleased with its performance? Are you looking to improve anything on it. Thank for sharing the great pictures.

Dale


----------



## gene1605

Dale Niggemann said:


> Awesome mill. I am looking at building one. I was wondering if I could get some plans on how to build it. I like how compact and simple it is. Are you pleased with its performance? Are you looking to improve anything on it. Thank for sharing the great pictures.
> 
> Dale


 Dale I'm looking for ways to improve my mills, but in order to sell them I must keep the price competive,
the performance is directly related with engine size.


----------



## Dale Niggemann

I have a portable hydraulic gas powered system. I am hoping to add a hydraulic motor to the band saw mill so I can keep it light and add hydraulics to for other application of the band saw mill. I have lots of large oak trees on my land that I want to select cut to make boards. Some are over 30 inches in dia. and I want to bring the mill to the tree. We also have lots of pine trees dying on our land and want to select cut them out before the wood get bad. Thanks for all your help and nice job on your lean designs. Any pictures or drawing will point me in the right direction. I tried to open the attachment on several of the link in the conversation but I get errors. Am I doing something wrong that I cannot open them or are the attachment links broken.

Dale


----------



## gene1605

Dale Niggemann said:


> I have a portable hydraulic gas powered system. I am hoping to add a hydraulic motor to the band saw mill so I can keep it light and add hydraulics to for other application of the band saw mill. I have lots of large oak trees on my land that I want to select cut to make boards. Some are over 30 inches in dia. and I want to bring the mill to the tree. We also have lots of pine trees dying on our land and want to select cut them out before the wood get bad. Thanks for all your help and nice job on your lean designs. Any pictures or drawing will point me in the right direction. I tried to open the attachment on several of the link in the conversation but I get errors. Am I doing something wrong that I cannot open them or are the attachment links broken.
> 
> Dale


 
Dale I have A very hard time with the coumptor, maby someone else can help you, Hydraulic power will work, but I've never tryed it If you have 15 or more HP. I would increase the band speed.
Gene


----------



## gene1605

Hi Everyone I've ben gone for a while, My Grandson Justin wanted to learn to build bandsaw mill's so I'm back building one maybe more, we almost have one finished, will send pictures when its finished.
Here is a picture of my father's mill in 1935 or 1936 My and my Sister job was to carry water from the spring [ 5 miles up hill both ways ] to keep the radiator [barrel ] full Oooolder brother, from this site was the sawdust dudler.
Sometime when there wasnt enough gas for the truck we hauled the lumber to the planer mill 20 miles with a team of horses and a wagon, took several days with a stop at the Darwin Oklahoma Honky Tonk. It was only a 2 day trip with the model A ford truck,
Keep in mind this sounds like hard times But my Brothers and Sisters only remember this as happy times makeing a liveing was hard but people were happy, maybe more than today.
Gene


----------



## dancan

Thanks for taking the time to post and to share , my hat is off to you Gene .


----------



## BIG JAKE

That's a neat story and pic too, Gene. Easy to see how milling got in your blood.
Thanks for posting


----------



## mrstihl

Hi everybody i`d just made my bandsaw mill fininsh and here i the results it can saw dia. 82cm and 9,5 m long. i would make some videos but i dont know what format i have to save them


----------



## K Vrem

gene1605 said:


> Dale I'm looking for ways to improve my mills, but in order to sell them I must keep the price competive,
> the performance is directly related with engine size.


Hello Gene I have one of your mills where do I get new blades


----------



## BIG JAKE

K Vrem said:


> Hello Gene I have one of your mills where do I get new blades



Suffolk Saw out of Idaho ask for Roy. Price is competitive, they do re=sharps too. That's where Gene sent me. When I finished my mill of course I really wanted to get sawing. Called him on Friday afternoon and he mailed my blade Saturday morning and I had it Tuesday already. Once I made sure it fit ok I ordered 5 more. This guy is 65 and is a sawyer himself some 40 plus years. He will get you set up with the right blade for what you are doing


----------



## K Vrem

Hi Big Jake Thanks for the reply I will get in touch with Roy. I started with 5 blades now I have 4 and I was surprised at how often they needed to be sharpened. So I figure 3 to work with and 3 at the sharpening shop. We cut out a 12x12 cabin last summer using cotton wood off my place, next is a shed for the mill then a tractor shed.


----------

