# Grinding Teeth, for Rayco 1625



## ScottyStump (Feb 14, 2004)

Folks,

I just bought a Rayco 1625. I have done a ton of research and have come to this conclusion:
Green Teeth: Cut through anything, lasts long, makes a mess of the chips, costs a lot
Rayco Super tooth: Big Bucks , lasts ok, no chips mess
CEI: cheaper lasts good, no chips mess
Leonardi: cheap, cheap no mess

I would appreciate some more input as I am going to set my machine up in the next few weeks and need more info.

Does anyone have any other teeth that they like?
I will be hitting rocks from time to time in my arear.

Thanks.

-Scotty


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## Stumper (Feb 14, 2004)

Leonardi offers 2 hardnesses of carbide-choose the softer one if you have to deal with rocks.(If that sounds backward-----the harder formulation is more brittle and tends to shatter when impacting hard material.-The folks at Leonardi will probably ask about your grinding conditions and advise you.)

One trick that you may find useful is.......Instead of automatically changing a full set of teeth when they begin to dull(or,worse, delaying changing until the teeth are just rounded wood pounders) change about a third of them when they start to dull. When set to the gauge the new teeth will protrude a few thousandths more than the worn teeth but cut smoothly. A 1/3 set change will cut almost as fast as a full new set but removes the fear of trashing a whole new set on another rocky stump or piece of imbedded steel. Keep rotating out the dullest third for new teeth as needed. I change fullsets when I have large clean stumps to do but change 1/3 to 1/2 of the teeth anytime cutting performance is starting to lag.


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## Koa Man (Feb 15, 2004)

I use Leonardi teeth and are very satisfied with them. I change teeth as needed. Sometimes one, or two or three. I never have had the need to change full sets, but I have a Levco. I did have a Rayco 1620 before and same thing applied.


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## Dadatwins (Feb 15, 2004)

I have 1625 with Rayco super teeth. Soil here is mostly clay with some rock. The straight center teeth on my unit wear the quickest since they seem to hit first. I just change them when needed with new. I am looking at a company that retips, not sharpen, old teeth about 1/2 the cost of new. My dad uses greenteeth and only complaint beside cost is that since you do not remove pockets to work on teeth by the time you have to change one you will need to cut them with a torch.


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## murphy4trees (Feb 15, 2004)

Green Teeth recommend using anti-sieze on the pocket bolts... That should work well for your Dad....
Grinding in Richmond was a dream.... It's hard to find any big stump around Philly without a rock or two in it...


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## lawmart (Feb 15, 2004)

I have supper teeth on my 1625, when i rent the 50 or 66 i also comes with the supper teeth on it would never use any thing else they last at least twice as long and go through stumps in half the time.
Last year i bought the teeth a second set of the standard teeth they lasted me 3 m. that was a $500. investment (can.)
never again its green teeth for me.


Lawmart

play safe


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## ScottyStump (Feb 15, 2004)

*Lawmart*

You spoke highly of the Super Teeth all the way your thread and then you say you like the green teeth in your close.

Iam confused, do you like green or Super?

Thanks.
-Scott


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## ScottyStump (Feb 15, 2004)

*Thanks!*

Thanks folks.

I am just as confused as before as you all seem to go in a different direction. (not your fault)

I need to set up the machine from GO because the wheel has been neglected and I see some major pocket wear. I want to start on a clean slate so I don't have problems in the field later.

I am going to flip a quarter between the green and super tooth and see what happens.

Thanks again for the input.

-Scott


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## lawmart (Feb 15, 2004)

sorry about that i got 4 kids yelling at me in the back, 
Geen teeth great

super teeth bad

Lawmart 

playsafe


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## xander9727 (Feb 15, 2004)

I usually sharpen my teeth when they start to get dull. This really decreases the cutting time. I usually get 15-20 sharpenings out of a set. I use the vermeer pro teeth but I'm not overly impressed with them. I am thinking about one of the Sandavik wheels when these sets are worn out.

My $.02


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## Dadatwins (Feb 15, 2004)

*Re: Thanks!*



> _Originally posted by ScottyStump _
> *Thanks folks.
> 
> I am just as confused as before as you all seem to go in a different direction. (not your fault)
> ...



I would stick with something that bolts onto wheel especially if it is showing some abuse. Slide in teeth to dangerous on a wheel that has been worn, might get thrown out. Be careful if you decide to try to smooth/grind out worn spots without getting it balanced to you could through wheel off balance and have more problems than choice of teeth.


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## preach it (Feb 15, 2004)

Stumper--- Where can I get a "gauge" as you are describing to measure my set up by thousandths? I have been using Leonardo's for a year now. They work fine. But I have been "eye balling" my measurements on the set up of the teeth. They are very close but obviously not by thousandths. Since I have a smaller grinder I sharpen all my teeth at once and usually every 6 hrs. or so of grinding, (usually depending on what kind of stumps I ground last.) I find that I can get about 4-5 sharpenings per tooth. They sure cut fast with a good edge.


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## Stumper (Feb 15, 2004)

Sorry if I caused confusion. The gauge is just a notched piece of steel that is set square on the wheel and has a ridge to slide the cutting edge against. When the teeth begin to dull the front edge wears away. When new teeth are installed with the simple gauge they project a few thousandths further than the ones that have worn back. This creates a situation where the new ,sharp teeth are biting aggressively but the worn teeth are still getting some wood-the machine grinds almost as well as when all teeth are new/sharp. The slight difference in tooth protrusion doesn't cause chatter or rough cutting. 
My whole point is that tooth sharpness is important-slightly dull still cuts fairly well in many woods but I see guys run a set to nubbins because they hate to change teeth and are afraid of messing up new ones. Changing a few at a time keeps the machine cutting efficiently,takes little time and minimizes the risk of tearing up a wad of cash in one frustrating instant. Running dull teeth is false economy in any event since it slows production(actually we are talking about DEstruction) and causes undue wear on the rest on the machine.


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## ScottyStump (Feb 15, 2004)

*Thanks.*

Nice job guys, I feel more confident now and look forward to asking for your advice in the future!


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## Stump Man (Feb 16, 2004)

I have an older Vermeer 2465 that I put a 80HP Deutz Diesel on. I have been using Vermeer Pro Teeth and have had very good luck. I have also used the Wheel Savers under the pockets and sure saves the cutter wheel.


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## dtm165 (Feb 20, 2011)

*Torch issue*



Dadatwins said:


> I have 1625 with Rayco super teeth. Soil here is mostly clay with some rock. The straight center teeth on my unit wear the quickest since they seem to hit first. I just change them when needed with new. I am looking at a company that retips, not sharpen, old teeth about 1/2 the cost of new. My dad uses greenteeth and only complaint beside cost is that since you do not remove pockets to work on teeth by the time you have to change one you will need to cut them with a torch.



With anti-sieze, I can get them out with a regular torque wrench.


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