# Central Boiler Classic - temp guage ?



## Jaberwky (Oct 16, 2008)

I fired up my CB Classic last weekend for the first time this season. When I flipped the master power switch the pumps started running and the damper clanked open (as it should). However, I got nothing on the digital temp gauge, which I thought was weird. I needed the heat so I figured I’d watch it real close, cause as long as the damper and pumps work the worst that could happen would be over heating and if I watched it close I could just shut off the power and the damper would shut.

Everything seems to be working fine so far; the stove gets up to temp and the damper closes just like always. When the temp drops the damper opens and away we go – it’s been working fine and no issues with water levels all week.

Could this be as simple as a fried temp gauge? Clearly the rest of the temperature controls are working properly – I just can’t see a visual of the water temp. I’m not a mechanically minded person so any fixes are going to have to be my HVAC contractor neighbor. How hard is it to put an in-line temp gauge inside the house so I can keep from having to trudge outside the check all the time – is there a remote stat I can get?


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## LumberjkChamp (Oct 16, 2008)

Hey Jaberwky, the same thing (almost) happened to my neighbor yesterday after his brand new CB 5036 had been running since the weekend. His problem was that whatever controls the damper failed while it was open and the boiler started to overheat (208 F by the time he realized it) and as a result it blew the fuse and somehow the temp. gauge also failed.

He spent some time on the phone with a service tech. from the factory and was able to figure out what he needed. I guess the temp. gauge was about $150 and was easy to put in. From what he explained to me that little gauge is the brains of the whole operation. Maybe you should call CB and see what they say because you dont want your boiler to overheat while you're not home someday- it happens real quick those things can really fire. 

Hope I could help and good luck with the issue.


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## Blazin (Oct 16, 2008)

Yeah..Check the fuse or the display on the temp unit chit the bed, It has been know to happen. Mine's been good for 4 years, but I prolly just cursed myself!


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## rx7145 (Oct 16, 2008)

I had the same thing happen with my CB. The damper got stuck closed so when the controler called for heat the fuse (now a breaker) tripped. I also had the controler stay "on" no matter what. I just tapped it and it has been good for three years. 

There should be a spot for a temp gauge on the Tee fitting right above the pump.


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## cedarfarms (Oct 17, 2008)

i had the same thing happen when i turned on my 4436 this year. everything worked but the LED temp reading. i used a multi tester find the problem, it was the little transformer that feeds the LED and termocoupler was burn out. we had a lot of thunderstorms this past summer, so i blame it on a power surge that fried it.
i got a new transformer at a local electronic store for about 10 bucks. 
mine was a 120v - 12v X 5va 
i would'nt think it would hard to run a wire from the LED on the furnace to another LED in the house.


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## mtfallsmikey (Oct 17, 2008)

Mine's ok (for now) but...my plan is to get a Honeywell strap-on aquastat for a backup. i'll have to find out from a buddy the correct mfr./part # for the easily-obtainable dmper solenoid that fits in place of the OE CB solenoid.


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## Jaberwky (Oct 17, 2008)

*This is why...*



LumberjkChamp said:


> Hey Jaberwky, the same thing (almost) happened to my neighbor yesterday after his brand new CB 5036 had been running since the weekend. His problem was that whatever controls the damper failed while it was open and the boiler started to overheat (208 F by the time he realized it) and as a result it blew the fuse and somehow the temp. gauge also failed.
> 
> He spent some time on the phone with a service tech. from the factory and was able to figure out what he needed. I guess the temp. gauge was about $150 and was easy to put in. From what he explained to me that little gauge is the brains of the whole operation. Maybe you should call CB and see what they say because you dont want your boiler to overheat while you're not home someday- it happens real quick those things can really fire.
> 
> Hope I could help and good luck with the issue.



This is why I like forums such as this. I can post a good question and get honest, immediate feedback. I'm glad you replied and I had a chance to read before going home last night. I went out after dark to check the furnace. The damper was closed so when I opened to door of course the bed of coals flared up a little. When I grabbed the rake to stir things up for the night, the fire seemed to be a lot hotter and more aggressive than I'd expect for such a low amount of wood and coals (about 14-18" deep and no big wood at all). The water level was fine. I shut the door and hung around, and sure enough, I started hearing some low pitched gurgling in there and eventually the unmistakable sound of boiling water from the vent cap.

Sigh....had to shut 'er down until I can fix it. My dealer is a little goofy so I'd rather just go straight to CB - good thing Greenbush is only an hour drive. Might have to make a trip this afternoon.


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## Jaberwky (Oct 17, 2008)

*Well dip my skinny....*



cedarfarms said:


> i had the same thing happen when i turned on my 4436 this year. everything worked but the LED temp reading. i used a multi tester find the problem, it was the little transformer that feeds the LED and termocoupler was burn out. we had a lot of thunderstorms this past summer, so i blame it on a power surge that fried it.
> i got a new transformer at a local electronic store for about 10 bucks.
> mine was a 120v - 12v X 5va
> i would'nt think it would hard to run a wire from the LED on the furnace to another LED in the house.



Wow I'm glad you posted! I NEVER thought of that. Our house got hit by lightning this summer (hit the stucco chimney) and really only damaged the electronic devices. Since the OWB is outside the house I never even considered that it might have gotten damaged, too! Great call...

The OWB is directly set away from the house 20' from the chimney, just below the view in the picture - so it wouldn't surprise me a bit if the bolt arced a few feet to the little all-metal building with a tall metal pipe sticking up from the back.


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## mtfallsmikey (Oct 17, 2008)

Hope you got that chimney fixed J....going back to the temp. gauge on the CB...That has a microprocesser/relay built in, so it controls the damper. I've seen the displays on some crap out during real cold weather...give some thought to installing thermometers on the supply/return like I di, so you can still have some means of seeing your water temps..


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## Mister Twister (Oct 17, 2008)

The controllers in the CB are made by Love controls a division of Dwyer instruments. They cost about $55 direct. That is why I purchased a Classic. Very simple controls and a solid door. Have you seen some of the other doors like the shaver? I did not like that door at all. Follow the link below I can't remember the exact PN I am at work right now can't check.

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/TOC.cfm?MainCategory_ID=5&iCurrentCategoryID=351


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## mtfallsmikey (Oct 17, 2008)

Which model is it, MT?


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## milkie62 (Oct 18, 2008)

I have a 1995 CB.It is even simpler.Just the mechanical operated damper and a 180 degree screw in thermostat.The only problems that I have had in 10 yrs plus is when outside temp gets super warm from really cold creosote will develop on the damper and "stick" the damper shut causing the breaker to trip.I just keep a paint scraper right at the boiler and give the damper a quick scrape or two every couple of weeks.Simplicity at its best----CENTRAL BOILER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## windthrown (Oct 18, 2008)

Had a controller go out about a half season heating after we installed our CB. The module would open the damper too long, and it boiled over once. I called the rep and he replaced it for free under the warantee, along with a gallon of anti-corrosion fluid and a new damper door (the original one bent from being slammed by the controller). 

Nice to know that you can get a new controller from the factory for cheaper. Not that I need one, now that I am no longer living with my ex, but maybe someday I will have a place with an outdoor boiler again.


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## LumberjkChamp (Oct 18, 2008)

Jaberwky said:


> Sigh....had to shut 'er down until I can fix it. My dealer is a little goofy so I'd rather just go straight to CB - good thing Greenbush is only an hour drive. Might have to make a trip this afternoon.



Yeah, my neighbor didn't want to shut his down either but what are you gonna do when it wants to flare up like that. I bet you'll have it going in no time- from what I've seen those things are real simple and the service techs. will talk you through it.
I'm glad you were able to prevent serious damage to the unit- tell us when you get it fired back up.


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## milkie62 (Oct 18, 2008)

I talked to my Central Boiler dealer and asked him why they went to cast iron door.He said too many steel doors were getting warped by excessive heat.I have the original steel door with no warpage ...10+ yrs.Apparently there must be a lot of people out there that THINK they know about wood heating.....


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## Jaberwky (Oct 20, 2008)

*Interesting update*

Since this saga started I'm feeling bipolar at best - up & down& up & down....

Taking cedarfarm's advice, we checked the transformer and voila! it's shot. Can't tell if the LED is shot until I get power on it (dad suggested tying a couple of 9 volt batteries together & attaching to the LED just to see if it gives a readout). Called my local dealer who tells me he hasn't been a dealer since last winter. Scrambled to find another one and the closest two are over an hour away.

I go to the only local electronics store on Saturday am to find that they don't even remotely have anything like the transformer needed so it's back to the dealer again. He's going to the factory today so I guess this won't get fixed until mid-week. But hey - it's only in the 20s at night so we're OK. I refuse to turn on the propane out of principle. That's why we have dogs & kids - the bed holds everybody!


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## LumberjkChamp (Oct 20, 2008)

Jaberwky said:


> I refuse to turn on the propane out of principle. That's why we have dogs & kids - the bed holds everybody!



Yeah, I do the same thing -can't remember when the last time the furnace was on. Its a principle issue with me too. If there is no wood there is no heat!

Keep us posted on the outcome of your most recent parts run for the CB, until then I'm sure you'll stay warm thinking of the roaring fire you're gonna light in it when you get 'er fixed.


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## cedarfarms (Oct 21, 2008)

I was told after i fixed mine that a door bell has a similiar transformer in it. the one i got could have been for something like that as the new one was a 20 amp, the old one was 5 amp.
i see you took a direct lightning hit! 
i didn't, but we got enough surge to cook 2 puter modems tho. about 2 weeks apart and also trip a couple breakers. 
what model is your owb jaberwky? 
i ask because my 4436 ran fine without the led. it has a aquastat termostat that controls the draft door. the led has its own termocoupler. there should be a wiring diagram in your manual. 
hopefully its just the transformer.


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## Jaberwky (Oct 22, 2008)

*Done*



cedarfarms said:


> I was told after i fixed mine that a door bell has a similiar transformer in it. the one i got could have been for something like that as the new one was a 20 amp, the old one was 5 amp.
> i see you took a direct lightning hit!
> i didn't, but we got enough surge to cook 2 puter modems tho. about 2 weeks apart and also trip a couple breakers.
> what model is your owb jaberwky?
> ...



I was going to tear apart my unused doorbell for that very reason if I hadn't gotten the replacement parts from CB. Drove up to the dealer yesterday on a beautiful fall morning and picked up the parts. They only sell the transformer as part of the LED/transformer/temp sensor kit so it cost me $80 for a $15 part. But oh well, I figure I have spares for the other parts just in case now. I really wanted to avoid having to replace the sensor because that would've meant draining the furnace. Wasn't in the mood for that chore. Without the transformer I wasn't sure if the LED still worked, so I grabbed a 9V battery and touched the LED leads to the terminals and voila - working LED.

It took a couple hours to get it all up & running, test pH, top off the water & add inhibitor, replace door rope, etc. So far so good....nice to have heat back. To answer your question I have a CL5648.


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## cedarfarms (Oct 22, 2008)

i think thats a newer model than mine, this 4436 is going on 8 years old. i had to replace the pump last spring. but thats all i have had to replace on the thing so far. 

glad to hear it was just the transformer


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## mtfallsmikey (Oct 23, 2008)

Never got a response as to which model Dwyer controller model # is the correct one, but looks like the TCS is it. I see they make a temp sensor with low water cutoff, but dunno if it has a thermocouple-type controller (which is NOT really the correct description). Most/all low voltage transformers like these are rated in VA (volt-amps) vs. amps, just get equal to, or above the current rating.


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## cedarfarms (Oct 25, 2008)

"Never got a response as to which model Dwyer controller model # is the correct one, but looks like the TCS is it. I see they make a temp sensor with low water cutoff, but dunno if it has a thermocouple-type controller (which is NOT really the correct description). Most/all low voltage transformers like these are rated in VA (volt-amps) vs. amps, just get equal to, or above the current rating." 

i stand corrected ... 
by "controller" are you talking the LED? 
i'm sure other models use a differant controls, but on mine and i'm quite sure jaberwky owb's the LED is just that, it reads the water temp. 
the aquastat thermostat is what controls the damper. 
i have no idea what the part numbers are for these parts.


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## skuter (Oct 31, 2008)

I just replaced mine for my 6048 Central Boiler under warranty. It was a Dwyer TS2 model. It says what model it is on the top of the controller where the wires go into it.


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## Lloyd H (Feb 6, 2009)

*transformers*

If you have one of the small plug in transformers, go to walMart and by a little surge suppresor and plug it in ahead of the transformer, it will save the transformer a lot of the time and they are only about $3.50 or $4.


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## Logger1987 (Oct 2, 2010)

*CB Model CL5036 Temp Controller or Something else?*

Hello,

I am having an issue with my boiler, when I start it up the damper should open up but it doesn't, if I wait for a while it will open up and stay open for a little while but then close randomly and cause the fire to go out so I know its not overheating. Has anyone had this issue before and if not can anyone give me some advice as to what it might be?


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## cedarfarms (Oct 2, 2010)

take the cover off the boiler door and check if you have power to the solenoid, if there's power to it and the damper isn't open you need a new solenoid. could also be something obstructing the damper door like creosote or a bee nest or something.


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