# Electric Chainsaw Mill Build



## Stu in Tokyo (Apr 24, 2013)

I have a chainsaw mill, works well, but well, it's a gas saw, of course. Even though I have put a motorcycle muffler on it, and it is very quiet compared to most chainsaws, it's still not something that I wish to run in my workshop. I don't really have the space to run it outside, and as I live in Tokyo Japan, what do I do? Well, I have this old heavy duty electric chainsaw, a Shindaiwa unit, it may not move the chain that fast, but the thing has some serious torque. With some ripping chain I've ordered, I think/hope it will do the job.

This is the third chainsaw mill that I've made, so I have learned a few things along the way, I hope to incorporate them into this unit.











Right now I've got the parts done that clamp onto the bar of the saw,





The nose has a built in guard, to keep me from hurting myself.









The pieces of square tubing with the nut welded to them and the T-handles will be the parts that are attached to the frame that will go along the guide board and that sets the thickness of the cut.

I hope to be done soon, but I understand the ripping chain I ordered from Baileys Online will not be in stock until the end of May # Dunno what's up with that.... ???

I'll be able to cut 42.5cm or about 16 3/4" wide, not the biggest chainsaw mill, but not bad either. If the saw will pull the ripping chain through the wood easily enough, I might try to find a longer bar, I don't think that Shindaiwa makes a longer bar, and bars from other makes don't fit, I think, so I might have to modify a bar to fit (had to do with how the tension adjuster works on this saw).

I'm also going to make some kind of a fixture to hold the log in, some kind of cradle, that I can use for various lengths and diameters of logs, got to think about that some more too. I'll be able to hoist any log up to put the carriage under it, and I want it with one end higher than the other, I find that having gravity help push the mill along is a good thing.

Cheers!


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## BobL (Apr 24, 2013)

Stu, Interesting build - thanks for posting.

I wouldn't have bothered using bar clamps but drilled the bar and bolted the bar direct to the upright. As well as making it much easier to change the chain this means less "stuff" to get hung up on the sides of the log.

Is that the oil tank cap underneath the locking nut on the in board end?

It also looks like you are running some sort of safety chain. If you use regular chain you will find it cuts a bit faster.

Cheers
Bob


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## Stu in Tokyo (Apr 24, 2013)

BobL said:


> Stu, Interesting build - thanks for posting.
> 
> I wouldn't have bothered using bar clamps but drilled the bar and bolted the bar direct to the upright. As well as making it much easier to change the chain this means less "stuff" to get hung up on the sides of the log.
> 
> ...



I never thought of drilling the bar, I figured the steel would be too hard, I might just give that a shot Bob, thanks!

Yes the oiler is not auto, you push a plunger and the oil is pushed onto the guide bar. The chain is whatever came with it, I bought it used, I have two loops of ripping chain on back order from Baileys, that should work better!


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## qbilder (Apr 24, 2013)

It seems you have pretty good fabrication skills and a mechanical inclination. If you are using a track for this mill, why not go all the way with it and install a larger motor? Doesn't seem it would be much more work than you're already doing. You'd basically be building a slabber mill with electric power. If I had the room & was confident an electric motor could do it within reason, I'd try it. Nice thread, BTW.


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## BobL (Apr 24, 2013)

Stu in Tokyo said:


> I never thought of drilling the bar, I figured the steel would be too hard, I might just give that a shot Bob, thanks!


Some bars are harder than others. Usually the bearing spacer in the middle of sprocket nose bars are the hardest but yours looks like a hard nose bar so it should be no problem with a freshly sharpened bit. Do a search for "drilling the bar" and you will get heaps of info on how to do it.



> Yes the oiler is not auto, you push a plunger and the oil is pushed onto the guide bar.


That's not what I meant - I mean that the height adjustment T-bolt for the mill looks like it will get in the way when you go to add bar and chain oil.

If the oiler is a manual one you will find that is a right PITA. I would recommend fitting an auxiliary oiler and not even worry about the manual oiler.



> The chain is whatever came with it, I bought it used, I have two loops of ripping chain on back order from Baileys, that should work better!


Yep that will be the go.


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## Stu in Tokyo (Apr 24, 2013)

BobL said:


> Some bars are harder than others. Usually the bearing spacer in the middle of sprocket nose bars are the hardest but yours looks like a hard nose bar so it should be no problem with a freshly sharpened bit. Do a search for "drilling the bar" and you will get heaps of info on how to do it.


Thanks I'll look into that!




BobL said:


> That's not what I meant - I mean that the height adjustment T-bolt for the mill looks like it will get in the way when you go to add bar and chain oil.


The big black round knob? that is the knob that you tighten to hold the bar in place, instead of the standart two nuts that most saws use, it has two studs that go into the slot on the bar, and then this one large knob that tightens down on the side cover, I can use a wrench on it, as there is a place for that below the big black knob.




I hope that makes it clear...?



BobL said:


> If the oiler is a manual one you will find that is a right PITA. I would recommend fitting an auxiliary oiler and not even worry about the manual oiler.



Yes, an auxiliary oiler is certainly planned as well.

Thanks for the feedback!


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## rarefish383 (Apr 24, 2013)

Stu, that's pretty cool. Since you're on the subject of electric mills, I have a question, not to hijack your thread. I have an old gear drive unit off an old Homelite saw. Anyone think I could use that for a platform to mount an electric motor? it already has the bar mount on it and I have a couple of 36 inch bars that fit it, Joe.


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## qbilder (Apr 24, 2013)

rarefish383 said:


> Stu, that's pretty cool. Since you're on the subject of electric mills, I have a question, not to hijack your thread. I have an old gear drive unit off an old Homelite saw. Anyone think I could use that for a platform to mount an electric motor? it already has the bar mount on it and I have a couple of 36 inch bars that fit it, Joe.



Don't see why not. A little redneck ingenuity and some duct tape should do it! Well maybe not the tape. I think the idea has great potential. Low noise, no emissions, can be ran in shop without ventilation. Stu might be on to something.


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## BobL (Apr 24, 2013)

Stu in Tokyo said:


> The big black round knob? that is the knob that you tighten to hold the bar in place, instead of the standart two nuts that most saws use, it has two studs that go into the slot on the bar, and then this one large knob that tightens down on the side cover, I can use a wrench on it, as there is a place for that below the big black knob.
> I hope that makes it clear...?


Got it - thanks



> Thanks for the feedback!


No worries.

I'm Looking forward to seeing it cut.


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## discounthunter (Apr 24, 2013)

stu, did you used to post on another site?


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## Stu in Tokyo (Apr 24, 2013)

discounthunter said:


> stu, did you used to post on another site?


Yes, Mostly woodworking sites, but here and there too!


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## BobL (Apr 25, 2013)

Hey Stu you should put your website in your sig. It's just awesome what you have managed to do in that basement shop of yours. Also some of your urban milling is worth showing the other guys on this forum.


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## Stu in Tokyo (Apr 25, 2013)

Thanks Bob, when I figure out how to do that I will!

I've got the mill attachment done......





Welding the last bit up using spacer blocks to keep everything square and level.





Another look









All welded up and I added a push handle.





I think this will work OK.

Now I have to figure out some sort of track to put on the ground that will hold the log in place.....?

Cheers!


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## qbilder (Apr 25, 2013)

BobL said:


> Hey Stu you should put your website in your sig. It's just awesome what you have managed to do in that basement shop of yours. Also some of your urban milling is worth showing the other guys on this forum.



What he ^ said


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## Stu in Tokyo (Apr 25, 2013)

qbilder said:


> What he ^ said



OK I finally figured it out and put a link to my site, the pages are a bit old, but there they are.
I also put a link to my YouTube channel, I hope that is OK.


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## qbilder (Apr 25, 2013)

Cool pics!!!


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## discounthunter (Apr 25, 2013)

Stu in Tokyo said:


> Yes, Mostly woodworking sites, but here and there too!



thought so! i enjoyed reading about how you started. the information in your posts helped me get started!


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## Stu in Tokyo (Apr 26, 2013)

discounthunter said:


> thought so! i enjoyed reading about how you started. the information in your posts helped me get started!



Oh yeah sure, blame it all on me!! :msp_biggrin: No really, thanks, I hope you enjoyed the site.

Well I got the first cut done today, a small chunk of VERY dry Doug Fir that I got from a house, I have about five 6' long pieces that I'm going to slab up, this was just the short end piece (long story about how I got these). This is the small end, maybe 10" in diameter, the large end is about 20" in diameter, so I should get some nice big slabs out of it at some point.





I just put it on my workmate knock off, this really did not work well, as you can imagine the mill is heavy on the power head end, and the log wanted to roll to that side. The log also wanted to slide along the top of the workmate, but for one quick cut it worked. I built a guide for the first cut out of some plywood, it is like an I-beam, simple and straight forward, you can see the top part of the log still attached to the I-beam standing up against the wall to the right.

*The Bad *

sawdust everywhere
Log not secure, it rolled
Log slide along the workmate
Jig's minimum cut it too large
T-handle to secure cut depth in the way

*The Good*

Even with the crosscut chain the cutting speed was faster than I had hoped.
The motor did not really warm up at all during the cut
Using the manual oiler I was able to keep oil on the bar
The cord did not warm up during the cut.

First up I need to make some sort of fixture to hold a log. I have a couple of ideas, first up is kind of a ladder or train track looking idea, this would have the log sit on it, and had one end of the ladder with a stop on it for the end of the log to go against, and then the other end would have some kind of a clamp that would grab on to that end of the lot, basically squeezing the log between the two ends of the ladder, if that make sense.

I'd sure like to see any ideas or examples any of you have!





I need to do two small mods on the mill, one is move the T-handle on the side nearest the power head up on the tube, it will get in the way of the big black knob when I do the second mod, which is to make the min cut thickness less. I think I'll cut an 1 1/2" off those tubes to give me a thinner min cut. The log holder will also be off the ground a bit, not need to be on my knees on a concrete floor. I'll also make the starting end higher by say a foot to let Mr. Gravity help out.

Lastly I'm going to hook up some kind of a hose to the saw, to where the majority of the sawdust comes out, I figure I could direct it into a garbage can or something, save on the clean up some.

Wish me luck!

Cheers!


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## strangersfaces (Apr 26, 2013)

Stu in Tokyo said:


> .....
> 
> *The Bad *
> 
> ...





So, unlike the outdoor mill, where your addition of an expansion chamber placated the neighbor lady, here you might want to add a "compression chamber"? in order to keep that "fussy shop owner" from complaining about the messy sawdust?:msp_biggrin:

Once you have the pickup at the saw properly directed, you could easily construct something like this Thien style separator to place between your vacuum/dust collector and it will catch the majority of the debris:

[video=youtube;3QCAOwSqrko]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=3QCAOwSqrko[/video]​
Phil Thien's website has design ideas and links to discussions by those who've built their own.

Just a thought....


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## BobL (Apr 26, 2013)

Nice work stu!



Stu in Tokyo said:


> .
> .
> 
> First up I need to make some sort of fixture to hold a log. I have a couple of ideas, first up is kind of a ladder or train track looking idea, this would have the log sit on it, and had one end of the ladder with a stop on it for the end of the log to go against, and then the other end would have some kind of a clamp that would grab on to that end of the lot, basically squeezing the log between the two ends of the ladder, if that make sense. I'd sure like to see any ideas or examples any of you have!


Have a look at the "Small milling rig" link in my Sig for some ideas



> I need to do two small mods on the mill, one is move the T-handle on the side nearest the power head up on the tube, it will get in the way of the big black knob when I do the second mod, which is to make the min cut thickness less.


See, I had a hunch that thing was in the way :biggrin:


> I think I'll cut an 1 1/2" off those tubes to give me a thinner min cut. The log holder will also be off the ground a bit, not need to be on my knees on a concrete floor. I'll also make the starting end higher by say a foot to let Mr. Gravity help out.


Or you could use log rails for every cut - as well as not needing modification the rails will allow you to correct for any twist and it will give you a smoother cut.


> Lastly I'm going to hook up some kind of a hose to the saw, to where the majority of the sawdust comes out, I figure I could direct it into a garbage can or something, save on the clean up some. !


I'd hate to be dragging any sort of hose attached to the saw so here's my redneck solution. If you get the log/saw up of the ground try fitting a deflection shleld/panel to the sawdust exit point of the saw so the dust ejection point is straight down and then put a cardboard box underneath the saw so that you just kick it along with your feet underneath the saw.


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## Stu in Tokyo (Apr 27, 2013)

I have some steel sitting around that is just about the right length, and some screw things that are used as leveling legs on scaffolding, add a couple of pieces of angle iron I have and some hole, and welding and I might have a rig that will work......

















The wingnuts will go on the outside of the side rails, then I'll be able to make the rail the size I need it to grip the log. A piece of angle iron will go along each end on the bottom, one side welded to a side rail the other side will have a slot cut in it and a bolt, so when the rails are positioned it can be tightened and will keep things squared up. I'll put some sort of dogs along the top edge of the side rails to bite into the log. I'll put some bolt on legs on the bottom of the angle iron along each end to get it off the floor, and I'll even put foot levelers on it to make it rock solid.
I don't do or get huge logs, so I don't need a huge set up, heck the mill won't even do 17" as it sits. This long vice like rail set up would also keep the majority of the log above the rail, and would make it easy to mill, just grip the log once and then slab it up, no dogs to get in the way.

Might work?


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## jrhannum (Apr 27, 2013)

*Thank you,Stu*

"Tokyo Log Hog" is one of my favorite bookmarks, one where I send visitors who wonder what inspired me to hook my Huski 575XP to a home-made "alaska" mill. From that have grown oak, maple and walnut slabs and soon will be "red gum' (California Eucalyptus) that go towards rustic park-benches, guitar bodies and gunstock blanks. i've found an old lathe, re-motored it, so bowl-turning is on the agenda for chunks of a walnut root-wad. Yer pics explain what words can't do, plus yer words are great, too. Keep the postings coming.


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## BobL (Apr 27, 2013)

Stu in Tokyo said:


> Might work?



Once the log has been cut into a cant (ie two straight sides) it will work but I think it will have trouble gripping a circular object especially if it is not absolutely cylindrical. Try cutting a couple of cookies and se how well it will hold those. At a bare minimum it will need some dogs to bite into the log. The dogs could also be arrange so as to take up the variations in log diameter.


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## Stu in Tokyo (Apr 27, 2013)

jrhannum said:


> "Tokyo Log Hog" is one of my favorite bookmarks, one where I send visitors who wonder what inspired me to hook my Huski 575XP to a home-made "alaska" mill. From that have grown oak, maple and walnut slabs and soon will be "red gum' (California Eucalyptus) that go towards rustic park-benches, guitar bodies and gunstock blanks. i've found an old lathe, re-motored it, so bowl-turning is on the agenda for chunks of a walnut root-wad. Yer pics explain what words can't do, plus yer words are great, too. Keep the postings coming.



You are very kind, and I'm happy to hear that I might have helped you over the edge into the abyss :hmm3grin2orange:

I'll look forward to your pics and post too!


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## Stu in Tokyo (Apr 27, 2013)

BobL said:


> Once the log has been cut into a cant (ie two straight sides) it will work but I think it will have trouble gripping a circular object especially if it is not absolutely cylindrical. Try cutting a couple of cookies and se how well it will hold those. At a bare minimum it will need some dogs to bite into the log. The dogs could also be arrange so as to take up the variations in log diameter.



The plan is for four or six dogs that would slide along the top edge of the steel rails, and have sharpened points that would be on the ends of bolts that I could turn into the log to grip it. With a straight across stop at one end to push into I think it will work, but we shall see :biggrin:


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## Stu in Tokyo (Apr 29, 2013)

I've gotten further along with my log holder for the new mill, I think this is going to work, out, but it is a work in process, so I'm sure I'll not get it right the first try, and it will need some tweaking.

I drilled the holes for the big threaded pieces to go through, and just tried it out...










This way I can make the log holder wider, or narrower depending on the size of the log.





Next I put some angle iron on three of the four side of the box, if you understand, both ends of the bottom got angle iron, and one end of the top side. The angle iron is bolted to the side of the log holder that does not move, and has one bolt in a slot on the side that does move, this should allow me to adjust the size but keep things squared up.

I'll also use the angle iron as a mounting point for the legs.
Not the best shot to show this, but the far end is much close together than the near end, this should allow me to adjust for the taper in the log.





I was just going to cut some plate steel and add some teeth, like the cardboard mockup here, but I decided that it would be better to have teeth that I could screw into the log.....





So I welded on some nuts and then put some bolts into them, I'll sharpen the tips of the bolts so they dig into the log better.





I want the log holder to sit at an angle, let Mr. Gravity help push things along, so I need to build some legs, a short pair and a long pair.





The short pair welded up and then ground smooth.


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## Stu in Tokyo (Apr 29, 2013)

The long pair. I splayed the short pair at 15° and the long pair at 10° to make the whole thing more stable.









That is about how it will stand. It's not done yet, I have to add a couple of gussets to the angle iron and legs as well as a bar between the leg and the body of the log holder to make it stronger. I can only do this one one side as the log holder has one moving side, but I think it should be enough. I guess I'll find out.





Just for fun I tossed the short piece on the log holder, it is a bit too wide I need to adjust it in a bit, but it works.

Cheers!


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## Stu in Tokyo (May 1, 2013)

I got the log holder done.....





The gussets around the top of the leg where the angle iron bolts to the frame, and you can see where the strut will go, just clamped in place in this picture.





A close up of the gusset 





I sharpened the tips of all the bolts that will grip the log.





The short legs done, the gussets and the strut as well.





That is done, not the best picture, kind of confined space, but it is done, now I just have to wait for the ripping chain to be in stock and be shipped to me.

One thing that this build really pointed out to me is that in my new welding room space, the next project will be a good welding table/bench with a vice, it was just silly using that piece of 1/4 plate on a workmate knock off, I need a proper bench and vice attached to it, next project I guess 

Cheers!


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## BobL (May 1, 2013)

Looking good Stu!



Stu in Tokyo said:


> . . . .One thing that this build really pointed out to me is that in my new welding room space, the next project will be a good welding table/bench with a vice, it was just silly using that piece of 1/4 plate on a workmate knock off, I need a proper bench and vice attached to it, next project I guess



Here's my welding fume hood/booth setup - cosy but very effective.





The extraction is a 500 cfm squirrel cage fan
The doors swing right back out of the way or can be completely removed or can completely be enclosed so the booth can be used as a spray paint booth.
The vice is on a short SHS post that can be completely removed and stored under the bench on that sliver bracket
[video=youtube;ysBByYj5Blc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysBByYj5Blc[/video]


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## Stu in Tokyo (May 1, 2013)

BobL said:


> Looking good Stu!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



OK the bench and vice idea, I'm stealing that for sure 

Freaking brilliant!

Do you have some more shots of the arm that holds the vice under the bench?

What do you do with the hole on the bench top, do you have a piece that drops in?

Love it, THANK YOU SO MUCH, the next time you are in Tokyo, beers are one me! :msp_w00t:

Cheers!


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## BobL (May 2, 2013)

Stu in Tokyo said:


> OK the bench and vice idea, I'm stealing that for sure
> 
> Freaking brilliant!
> 
> Do you have some more shots of the arm that holds the vice under the bench?







This is the bracket - it's basically a set of 3 strong hinges that allow the vice to sneak through the narrow space under the bench.





Here it is loaded with the vice.





Here is how it locks to the underneath of the bench - 



> What do you do with the hole on the bench top, do you have a piece that drops in?


Correct. Sorry I have no photos of that piece. It's just a 2" long stub on a piece of quarter inch plate. I think I have used it once? - see following

My original plan was to put a solid 3/4" steel top on the bench but I ended up just laying two piece of 1/4" plate loosely on top. I often move the plates so there is a gap between them and use the gap for clamping etc. I like this so much I don't think I'll bother with the thicker top at least for while. 



> Love it, THANK YOU SO MUCH, the next time you are in Tokyo, beers are one me! :msp_w00t:



That could be possible in the next couple of years!


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## strangersfaces (May 2, 2013)

Bob,

They're known to be quick with answers, while rarely capable of implementing practical solutions in the real world.

You, however, are giving Teachers a good name.... I so enjoy your ingenuity.


Question.... When hot from the mold, did your vise get laid on it's side before cooling? I can't say that I've seen one with the offset jaws....


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## BobL (May 2, 2013)

strangersfaces said:


> Bob,
> They're known to be quick with answers, while rarely capable of implementing practical solutions in the real world.
> You, however, are giving Teachers a good name.... I so enjoy your ingenuity.


Cheers SF. 



> Question.... When hot from the mold, did your vise get laid on it's side before cooling? I can't say that I've seen one with the offset jaws....


That's how they are made. These Aussie made offset vices are excellent as welding and blacksmithing vices as the can hold long stuff vertically across the whole vice face. BTW all that vice cost me was the $10 for gas (well diesel ) to go and pick up. It was baldly rusted and had no jaws, so I used electrolysis to bring it back to life and made up some mild steel jaws and it has been great.


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## Stu in Tokyo (May 2, 2013)

Thanks Bob, that is great, just what I was looking for! The little tab that the vice grips when stowed is a great idea too.

I have also never seen that kind of offset vice, looks very useful. I have a vice that rotates in two axis, and has a fixture on the bottom to hold pipe, I'm going to use this on my welding bench. The only thing I have thought to add is a nut an bolt on the tube below the bench that the stub on the bottom of the vice goes into to secure the stub in place, but before I do that I have to ask does the vice move around on your when in use, or does the weight of the vice keep it in place?

The two plate that can be opened is very intriguing, I'm going to think more about that for sure, any pics of that in action?

I totally agree with SF that your ingenuity is great, thanks so much!

Cheers!


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## Stu in Tokyo (May 2, 2013)

My ripping chain will not come until the end of May, :'( and I need my space back, so I'll be stowing the log holder until then, but I wanted to give the whole set up a test run before I do put it away, so.....





..... I threw one of the dry Doug Fir logs on the log holder.





I'm worried that the bolts would not dig into the log, so I strapped the log down first.....






and then tightened the bolts down....





.... they dug in just fine ;D





I made a deflector out of cardboard and duct taped it to the saw, it worked well.





I sliced the top off the log. 
This cut took less than six minutes, not fast, but not as slow as I'd feared. The saw body was only warm to the touch, and the cord was not warm at all. The deflector worked well and a box kicked along got a lot of the sawdust, maybe 60%.






cont......


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## Stu in Tokyo (May 2, 2013)

I went ahead and did a second cut, this went even better, took maybe 8 minutes and with a modified box I got more of the sawdust, maybe 80% not bad at all.









I think that is a fairly nice slab of wood.

The bottom remaining part I'll cut into two square pieces something near 4x4s on my resaw bandsaw.





The saw seemed to work just fine, like I said, it's no speed demon, but it did not over heat, and I could keep oil on the chain as you can see.....





The tip did not overheat either....





.... I'm about 90% satisfied, and I'm sure that will get towards 100% with the ripping chain. I hope to also make a better box/dust collector of some kind, but all it all it worked great. The log was very securely held in place and the mill worked just fine, I'm calling this a win!

Cheers!


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## BobL (May 2, 2013)

Nice milling picks Stu - thanks for posting



Stu in Tokyo said:


> .
> .
> .
> The only thing I have thought to add is a nut an bolt on the tube below the bench that the stub on the bottom of the vice goes into to secure the stub in place, but before I do that I have to ask does the vice move around on your when in use, or does the weight of the vice keep it in place?


Yes it did move so I did what you were thinking of. 
One of the blokes on the Aussie Wood workers metalwork form suggested locking at the the corner and that locks it really tight.
Rather than use a bolt and then always having to go look for a spanner I made a threaded swivel handle. 
The base of the locking handle also acts as the welding earth clamp as this is in hard contact with the vice.








> The two plate that can be opened is very intriguing, I'm going to think more about that for sure, any pics of that in action?



Sorry no pics of that. I had a close look at welding benches before making mine. One design that I like is one with an open diagonal cross on the top of the bench. The gaps are just big enough to insert and turn a standard F clamp.


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## Sawyer Rob (May 2, 2013)

BobL said:


> This is the bracket - it's basically a set of 3 strong hinges that allow the vice to sneak through the narrow space under the bench.


 That's what i was thinking, 3 HD strap hindges and you have it pretty much ready made... 

Big HD strap hindges were common on farms around here, so you see them cheap all the time on farm sales...

SR


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## Stu in Tokyo (May 3, 2013)

BobL said:


> Nice milling picks Stu - thanks for posting
> 
> 
> Yes it did move so I did what you were thinking of.
> ...



Thanks Bob, that is great info, I can't wait to build my welding bench now :msp_biggrin:


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## Stu in Tokyo (May 4, 2013)

I just wanted to post this as basically finished, I took the other half of the log down to the Dungeon and ran it through my resaw-bandsaw.









I moved the saw to the middle of the shop, using my bench and tablesaw as infeed and outfeed.





Ready to go!

The results.....









The big slab on the left is the main piece I got, as well as two other not so bad chunks, this was the smallest end of the log, and it had some significant cracks in it, and I made a bad cut or two, as my resaw was not quite tuned up, yes operator error... 

Once I get the ripping chain on my mill, I'll cut up the other four logs, until then I'll be stowing the mill and the log holder. 
I'll make the slab and into a nice bench for a buddy's yard, it will fit in perfect.

Cheers!


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## mad murdock (May 4, 2013)

Great job! Some very nice pieces there


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