# Do I need this in my wood stove?



## cowroy (Apr 9, 2011)

This plate inhibits me from getting as much wood in as I would like to at times and I was wondering if it was really necessary or not? This is an Englander stove.





Its the thing with the big dip from getting to hot.


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## cjcocn (Apr 9, 2011)

I had one on the stove that I had previous to my current one.

My thinking was that it helped to keep more heat in the stove instead of it running right out of the pipe. That means more heat to radiate out to the house.

Mine was warped like that as well, but I kept on taking it out and using a BFH to straighten it out some and then reinstalling it.

That stove I was using was too small for my house and that plate became warped because I had to fill the stove and run it hot in order to keep the house warm. Maybe you are in the same situation?

HTH


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## cowroy (Apr 9, 2011)

Probably so. I do run mine hot, but the problem is not the size just where it's located in the house. Another problem is the plate is welded in


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## Blowncrewcab (Apr 9, 2011)

is there a Damper in the flue pipe somewhere? if you remove that you will need some way to keep the heat from just flowing up the pipe (that plate slow's it some but not the best) they have dampers that you can put into the sections of pipe that don't have to be on/in the stove it's self.


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## sunfish (Apr 9, 2011)

That is a baffle. Your stove will not work very good without it.

If it were mine, I'd figure out a way to straighten it (bend it back up).


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## cowroy (Apr 9, 2011)

Blowncrewcab said:


> is there a Damper in the flue pipe somewhere? if you remove that you will need some way to keep the heat from just flowing up the pipe (that plate slow's it some but not the best) they have dampers that you can put into the sections of pipe that don't have to be on/in the stove it's self.


 
The problem is, it is an ole heatalator type fireplace that was almost rusted plum out when I bought the house. It had a damper yes but the first time I tried to open it it fell out of the fire box because of rust. I just took and cut a whole in the back of it and ran black chimney pipe all the way up the flue bought an Englander free standing stove cut the legs off and slid it in the fire box as an insert. There was no cap of any kind on top of the flue block is why it rusted out so bad. So yes I could put a damper on it but it would be a real pain to get to if I needed to. This is what it looks like now. If someone knows exactly the best way to go about it I'm all ears. This stove should easily heat a 16-1800 sqft house and mine is just 1370 sqft. The flue is still totally open except for the pipe in it and the cap on the pipe. Here is what it looks like.


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## olyman (Apr 9, 2011)

too bad your hearth aint out farther....if it was--you could slide the stove further away from the chimney pipe,put in a longer stovepipe and 90 deg elbow,,and put a dampner in there....it would heat a lot better also--as more of the stove would be exposed to open air--me thinks a bunch of your heat,,is going straight up the chimney----


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## JRepairsK70e (Apr 9, 2011)

i have an old garrison stove with a similar setup ,the baffle is really important for curling the fire back to the front of the stove and as a semi damper . mine broke the welds on one side and bent inward ,had to pull stove and cut out the baffle it was 3/8 inch steel oe i fabricated 2 brackets and welded them in place on the sides then upgraded the baffle to 1/2 inch and it just sits on the brackets loose so if the stove gets too full the baffle can give way a bit . this mod has been working fine for a couple years now . i do have a damper in the stove pipe also . good luck with your repair. if you can cut and weld its not to hard to repair if not you should find a fabrication shop to do it ,good luck with your quest jk


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## TMFARM 2009 (Apr 9, 2011)

i would install a damper right above the stove for sure..you may be able to get one in there between the stove and bricks..i would just take a bottle jack inside the stove and bend it back upward..
just my opinion..


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## Ronaldo (Apr 10, 2011)

*Baffle Warp*

I agree that a hydraulic bottle jack should work great to remove the warp-I would put something under the jack to spread the load so you dont break the firebrick on the bottom of the stove. You could then weld a piece of angle iron across the front of the baffle and that should certainly stiffen the outside edge enough to prevent further warping. Pretty cheap to do , I would think.


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## cowroy (Apr 10, 2011)

This is exactly the info I needed guys. I would like to cut it out and beef it up with a thicker plate but I think I will just straighten it the best I can, then weld in reinforcement angle. I also think I will try and squeeze a damper in if you think it will help that much. :msp_thumbup:


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