# Using wood ashes to fertilize lawn



## woodbooga (Jun 16, 2008)

Anyone out there recycle their stove byproducts in this way? Any tips for best results? 

I've done this with mixed results. Sometimes works great, but you need to be careful because of the alkalinity of the ash. Poorly distributed ash can result in wicked dead patches!


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## Butch(OH) (Jun 16, 2008)

Been throw'en wood ashes on the lawn for as long as I can remember. With the OWB we make planty too. The lawn here has had nothing but wood ashes for the 26 years I have lived here and looks just fine.


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## Boike (Jun 16, 2008)

I do not have a good way to tell how much to use, but I have used wood ash on my garden for years. Just had it tested this year, and it seems that I went a big overboard, and had to acidify the soil to bring it back to a ph of 7. You may even want to test your soil first to make sure you need it.


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## turnkey4099 (Jun 17, 2008)

35 years of putting it on my lawn by just 'slinging' the ash pan. Results in thin and thick spots. Never had a dead spot anyplace. IIANM the major fertiliser component is Phosphorus but it is very small concentration.

Harry K


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## habanero (Jun 17, 2008)

turnkey4099 said:


> 35 years of putting it on my lawn by just 'slinging' the ash pan. Results in thin and thick spots. Never had a dead spot anyplace. IIANM the major fertiliser component is Phosphorus but it is very small concentration.
> 
> Harry K



Phosphorus is a component of the ashes, but potassium and calcium are also major components (depends on the type of wood to a certain degree).

The discrepancy between those getting dead spots from applying ashes versus those who don't probably has a lot to do with the native pH of their soils. Those with naturally low-pH soils won't have a problem with too much alkalinity from the ashes, but those with already high pH soils can.

Ashes are good to use at the same time you're applying natural nitrogen sources (i.e. composted manure). Since natural nitrogen sources usually contain most of their nitrogen in the form of amines (lot of N-H bonds), when they break down to form nitrates (N-O bonds) they release hydrogen ions into the soil. Since those are acidic, it is good to have the basic ashes around to keep the soil pH nearly neutral. Along these same lines, if you have a lot of oak trees around, applying ashes to your lawn can balance out the acidity that leaches out of the oak leaves in the fall.


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## turnkey4099 (Jun 17, 2008)

habanero said:


> Phosphorus is a component of the ashes, but potassium and calcium are also major components (depends on the type of wood to a certain degree).
> 
> The discrepancy between those getting dead spots from applying ashes versus those who don't probably has a lot to do with the native pH of their soils. Those with naturally low-pH soils won't have a problem with too much alkalinity from the ashes, but those with already high pH soils can.
> 
> Ashes are good to use at the same time you're applying natural nitrogen sources (i.e. composted manure). Since natural nitrogen sources usually contain most of their nitrogen in the form of amines (lot of N-H bonds), when they break down to form nitrates (N-O bonds) they release hydrogen ions into the soil. Since those are acidic, it is good to have the basic ashes around to keep the soil pH nearly neutral. Along these same lines, if you have a lot of oak trees around, applying ashes to your lawn can balance out the acidity that leaches out of the oak leaves in the fall.



Yeah. Potassium is what I had in mind. Phosphorus jumped in there from my experience running a soil/plant test lab one summer. Some of the tests got a bit 'wonky' as I smoked while working. It was basic 'cook book' chemistry and I had no clue of what or why, just 'follow this procedure'.

Harry K


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## abohac (Jun 17, 2008)

woodbooga said:


> Anyone out there recycle their stove byproducts in this way? Any tips for best results?
> 
> I've done this with mixed results. Sometimes works great, but you need to be careful because of the alkalinity of the ash. Poorly distributed ash can result in wicked dead patches!



I follow a very scientific process since the ash may have a different analysis of pot ash and may have harmful effects on the plant the following year. The process is: 1. Wait way too long to clean your stove out (let the ash build up until you can't get air to your fire - ash is more potent) 2. Pick a windy day so the ash blows up your nose. 3. pick a day that is warm so you get stuck and need your wife to help you get out. 3. Have wife not give you any for two weeks because you yelled at her for breaking chain 4. Dump ashes in field and build another fire:monkey:


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## secureland (Jun 18, 2008)

abohac said:


> I follow a very scientific process since the ash may have a different analysis of pot ash and may have harmful effects on the plant the following year. The process is: 1. Wait way too long to clean your stove out (let the ash build up until you can't get air to your fire - ash is more potent) 2. Pick a windy day so the ash blows up your nose. 3. pick a day that is warm so you get stuck and need your wife to help you get out. 3. Have wife not give you any for two weeks because you yelled at her for breaking chain 4. Dump ashes in field and build another fire:monkey:




Have you considered publishing these methods and results? This is on the cutting edge of a dull thing called routine, lol


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## habanero (Jun 18, 2008)

turnkey4099 said:


> Yeah. Potassium is what I had in mind. Phosphorus jumped in there from my experience running a soil/plant test lab one summer. Some of the tests got a bit 'wonky' as I smoked while working. It was basic 'cook book' chemistry and I had no clue of what or why, just 'follow this procedure'.
> 
> Harry K



My first job after college was as an assistant manager of the Soil and Plant Analysis Lab at Iowa State. I was the first chemist they'd ever had working there, and I spent most of the 2.5 years I was there "fixing" their analytical methods. Like you say, "cookbook chemistry" was the norm-too many assumptions and shortcuts for my taste. Probably worked okay for farm/garden recommendations, but not good enough for our research clients.

I'd recommend that anybody who's worried about what the ashes are doing to their garden/lawn just send a sample in to your local soil lab. Most charge between 10-20 bucks per sample for a routine P, K, pH analysis which is plenty good enough to know how the ashes are working. The most important thing is taking representative samples, which isn't necessarily a simple process. But, your local lab or even your county extension should have information on how to take a sample. ISU's lab website is http://www.agron.iastate.edu/soiltesting/ and at least they used to have some information on there about taking samples.


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## abohac (Jun 18, 2008)

secureland said:


> Have you considered publishing these methods and results? This is on the cutting edge of a dull thing called routine, lol



It is funny you should ask. I am waiting on MIT to get back with me right now. I suggested my findings to Michigan State University and their landlab but my information was a little to deep for them.


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## turnkey4099 (Jun 18, 2008)

abohac said:


> I follow a very scientific process since the ash may have a different analysis of pot ash and may have harmful effects on the plant the following year. The process is: 1. Wait way too long to clean your stove out (let the ash build up until you can't get air to your fire - ash is more potent) 2. Pick a windy day so the ash blows up your nose. 3. pick a day that is warm so you get stuck and need your wife to help you get out. 3. Have wife not give you any for two weeks because you yelled at her for breaking chain 4. Dump ashes in field and build another fire:monkey:



You missed:

5. Toss ashes into wind and then have wife inform you that the bathroom window was open at the time. 

Harry K


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## cat10ken (Jun 18, 2008)

6. Toss ashes into the wind, upwind from clothes freshly washed and hung on the line to dry. The reaction is less than pleasant!


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## abohac (Jun 19, 2008)

turnkey4099 said:


> You missed:
> 
> 5. Toss ashes into wind and then have wife inform you that the bathroom window was open at the time.
> 
> Harry K



Do you guys live at my house?


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## HUSKYMAN (Jun 19, 2008)

I always figured if I used my ashes on the lawn it would turn it into a gray gooey mess when it rained. I guess the key is spreading it thin?.

My soil is very poor and maybe this would help a lot


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## stihl sawing (Jun 19, 2008)

I always throw them out on the lawn from the ash pan, I try to spread them out. What's bad is when you toss them out and the wind blows it back in your face.


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## abohac (Jun 19, 2008)

HUSKYMAN said:


> I always figured if I used my ashes on the lawn it would turn it into a gray gooey mess when it rained. I guess the key is spreading it thin?.
> 
> My soil is very poor and maybe this would help a lot



Where did you happen to find poor soil in Birch Run?


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## aokpops (Jun 20, 2008)

wood ashes makes great weed killer . pile the ashes on thick where you want bare spots .


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## HUSKYMAN (Jun 22, 2008)

abohac said:


> Where did you happen to find poor soil in Birch Run?



Its all sand, even the black dirt is full of sand. No way I am having black dirt hauled in just so I can cut my grass more often. I may spread some ashes this fall if it is a free alternative though.


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## abohac (Jun 22, 2008)

HUSKYMAN said:


> Its all sand, even the black dirt is full of sand. No way I am having black dirt hauled in just so I can cut my grass more often. I may spread some ashes this fall if it is a free alternative though.


I usually go to Birch Run the back way (off 13 by Gracie's) Looks like pretty good stuff over there.


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## JBinKC (Jun 22, 2008)

Wood ashes is an excellent source of potassium and a long time ago was the main source of potash for fertilizer manufacture. You can use it on the lawn but be aware the pH of wood ashes is in the 9.8-10.4 range.

Another thing to consider is if you are burning black walnut the juglone in the wood will have an adverse affect with certain trees and plants like peppers and tomatoes.

Wood ashes also work pretty well if you are requiring ice traction.


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## turnkey4099 (Jun 23, 2008)

JBinKC said:


> Wood ashes also work pretty well if you are requiring ice traction.



But not any place you will be walking unless you want it tracked everywhere. BTDT

Harry K


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## stihlaficionado (Jun 25, 2008)

When I lived in Florida (32 yrs) I'd mix the ash into the somewhat sandy soil(NW FL) mainly around azaleas, together with some good topsoil. No issues.

mark


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