# 200T Carbitooter Thread **Official**



## Zombiechopper (Aug 10, 2010)

Ok folks, this is the _*official*_ 200T carb thread. 

I have a few objectives that I need help with. I'd like to try and gather up all the info in one place and hopefully list some solutions

1) list all carbs for 200T. Apparently there have been 16 variations. 
2) possibly figure out which non-accel walbros can be jury rigged and how to do it (ie modify choke and throttle linkages)
3) figure out which newly available Zama could be modified so as to make a replacement carb much cheaper (ie replace choke plates and?..)
4) figure out instructions for epoxy fill accel pump


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## Zombiechopper (Aug 10, 2010)

some info:


Grande Dog said:


> Howdy,
> I see they've had 14 different carbs for that saw. All of them are proprietary to Stihl from Zama. It is possible that another C1Q carb would work if you switch out parts. It could be simple as just a different choke or throttle shaft. Might be able to be figured out with IPL and part number and paper chase it. More than likely you would have to get the players in front of you to see what needs to go where. If you want too see the Zama options, enter [email protected] in the search box on our website and it will pull them up.
> Regards
> Gregg



Can anybody help get this on the right track? If we can figure out a good carb to try on I will buy the carb and try it.


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## Zombiechopper (Aug 10, 2010)

This is the start of the pump repair



pgg said:


> Brand new carb is the easiest, but you can whip out the throttle shaft to access the accel-pump and decide what to do with it, either replace the tiny O-ring on the tiny piston or just ditch the piston and spring and epoxy the stupid accel-pump hole shut. On the accel-pump Zama there's a welch plug at the back of the carb that accesses the accel-pump circuit, lets you plug the pump circuit without having to remove throttle shaft, pump and spring. The accel-pump passage runs thru to the main nozzle and if the pump is dodgy and not sealing, air gets sucked direct to the main nozzle and leans the fuel supply all to hell


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## belgian (Aug 10, 2010)

Good initiative ZC !!! This will be very useful info.

I know Lakeside posted valuable information about some versions that I printed but can't find the thread anymore. Rep comin !


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## pgg (Aug 10, 2010)

There's plenty of carbs that work well on the 200t, they're the little WT walbros and the equivalent sized Zamas, The WT carb parts all interchange, the Zama carb parts don't interchange with Walbro carbs though. It's all a matter of matching the saws trigger and choke linkages to the carbs throttle and choke shafts. Easiest way is to simply remove the carbs throttle and choke linkage and swap in the shafts from the original 200T carb.

There's also the impulse connection to take into account, the 200T uses the reasonably common front positioned impulse hole that sits on the front of the carb next to the carb boot, some carbs have the impulse hole in their lids and either no front hole or the front hole is plugged. Swap on the original 200T carb lid and the existing front impulse hole will line up, and if that hole's plugged, then unplug it. If there's no front impulse hole on the carb then you're out of luck and need another carb that has that hole. The easiest way is to find a 200T carb that fits straight on....


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## Zombiechopper (Aug 13, 2010)

From the long lost guru


Lakeside53 said:


> If it's not the usual stuff.. generally no. Zama had a QC problem.. The accelerator pump galls the carb body. The C1Q61,61A, B and C fail. The D seems to be holding in somewhat ok, and the 61E is latest.


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## Zombiechopper (Aug 13, 2010)

This man was a gold mine. 

He quit because he already posted everything we ever need and just left it all sitting here




Lakeside53 said:


> The carb is Stihl only. Zama makes them specifically for the MS200T and for Stihl, not the general market. You can try replacing the pump -a kit is available, but you need to know exactly what carb you have.. and I wouldn't bother kitting anything prior to an S61D
> 
> The S126 works great. The non-accelerator pump version is the older C1QS32 - still available from stihl. Lacks the initial "punch" of the later versions, but very reliable.
> 
> BTW.. 140 isn't great on a 200T... rings... piston...






Lakeside53 said:


> BTW.. taking out the accel pump requres removing the butterfly from the throttle shaft. Often the brass screw will either strip or the head will gall. When you put it back, after geting the throttle plate in the exact postion, tighten, then peen (use a suitable anvil!)the far end to stop it from coming loose, and use loctite.


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## Zombiechopper (Aug 13, 2010)

,,,


Lakeside53 said:


> The S32 is a butt-simple carb.. none of the problems of the S61. Just rebuild it if you're concerned.
> 
> Squirt some carb cleaner at your base gasket. If it changes idle, then it's leaking. You shouldn't reuse gaskets, but if you do  put on a thin smear of gasket sealer.
> 
> ...


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## Zombiechopper (Aug 13, 2010)

nnn



Lakeside53 said:


> They are dead easy to work on on after you've done a few dozen:greenchainsaw:
> 
> 
> Side play isn't great, but for small amounts I've stopped replacing bearings in these... seems to have little to no effect on running. End play is normally 0.5mm, but can be more...
> ...


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## Zombiechopper (Aug 13, 2010)

this dude knows the score too



pgg said:


> For a pretty well used 200t, just new rings and seals and you're good to go, well worn in bearings let the saw rev out easy, also a 200T does rev higher than an 020T. The tiny 200t bakelite seals are difficult to tap in, brittle as, the metal ones are way easier, on the dodgy carb, I'd go for the accel-pump kit if they are available, it'll be just a spring, o-ring and rod, you slide out the throttle shaft, a non accel-pump carb better though. You can tell accel-pump carbs by the hole over the throttle shaft






Lakeside53 said:


> Ax-man said:
> 
> 
> > The C1QS32 020T two screw non-accel carb is still available, and works well on the MS200T


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## Zombiechopper (Aug 13, 2010)

000


lakeside53 said:


> i have replaced very few 200t/20t pistons in 5 years... And these were on on very high time saws. They don't sell for $200... Try $90.50. They wear out very gracefully - get highly polished and very worn rings, but that's at a few thousand hours. The cylinders rarely score. We service hundreds of these per year.
> 
> Scaring? Can you post a pic? Is it on the exhaust side or the inlet. What was the compression? At about 130-135lb ("yellow" ), the 200t is dog. I've seen a few like this... But they keep on using them or sell them to homeowners.
> 
> ...





lakeside53 said:


> i have replaced very few 200t/20t pistons in 5 years... And these were on on very high time saws. They don't sell for $200... Try $90.50. They wear out very gracefully - get highly polished and very worn rings, but that's at a few thousand hours. The cylinders rarely score. We service hundreds of these per year.
> 
> Scaring? Can you post a pic? Is it on the exhaust side or the inlet. What was the compression? At about 130-135lb ("yellow" ), the 200t is dog. I've seen a few like this... But they keep on using them or sell them to homeowners.
> 
> ...


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## Grande Dog (Aug 13, 2010)

Howdy,
All the carbs I saw listed were Zama C1Q series. The differnt types were:
S32
S61
S61D
S61E
S96A
S96B
S108
S108A
S109
S109A
S126
S127
S128
S129
Regards
Gregg


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## Zombiechopper (Aug 13, 2010)

good accel pump description




pgg said:


> Par, the pump is just a simple brass plug(piston) with an O-ring on it and a little coil spring under it sitting in a hole(cylinder), the piston gets pushed in when the throttle shaft rides on it when you touch the throttle, springs back when the throttle shaft turns further around, it just squirts a bit of gas just off idle only. It's little cylinder has a passage connected to the fuel bowl and the exit has a passage to the fuel nozzle. Slide the throttle shaft out and you'll see the little piston sitting in it's hole, it'll actually spring out when you slide the throttle shaft out. I've heard that there's a repair kit to fix the leaky pump, I'm guessing the repair kit is a new piston, O-ring and spring, but I reckon it's just the tiny rubber O-ring that wears out and loses it's seal


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## Zombiechopper (Aug 20, 2010)

cjnspecial said:


> The 200T hasn't been running right for a while. It starts easy, idles way up then dies. If you hold down the throttle to keep it from dying, it would scream to over 17,000-18,000 rpm's. If didn't run it hard for a little while, it seemed like it would level out. It didn't do this all the time but it was getting worse and worse. Cleaning the carb and adjusting the H setting didn't help at all. All the rubber (fuel line, impulse line, vent, intake boot) were good. Because it was intermittent, I suspected an air leak and talked to my dealer about testing it and giving him the details on how it was running. He said not to bother bringing it in, to drop by the shop and he had what I needed in stock.
> He says the new carbs are crappy and a lot of folks go back with a fully adjustable carb the 020t's use and have not had any issues with them.
> 
> Stihl PN: 1129-120-0650 /Zama C1Q-S32
> ...


yass


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## Zombiechopper (Aug 20, 2010)

yesh yesh



pgg said:


> a 200T carb, the part that wears out, it's the brass plunger setup that rides off the throttle shaft, it pumps a squirt of gas to the main nozzle with the trigger from idle only. This one in the pic is worn and lets AIR direct to the main nozzle too
> 
> The accel- pump is another unnecessary crock of you know what. Same as the intelli-carb B.S. Jetted too lean for good low response, so they've had to add more clunky and troublesome moving parts in the form of the ridiculous accel-pump Which by the way, doesn't give any extra pep than a non-accel pump carb. And if people can't be bothered cleaning the airfilter occasionally then that's their problem. hahaha
> 
> ...


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## Zombiechopper (Aug 20, 2010)

a!z



pgg said:


> Well, I find the husky nicer to use than the 200T and the 200T shines on the bigger stuff only. Also I thought the 338's would have decent carbs, the 335 carbs have the main nozzle sitting too high, bad design, the idle circuit is starved and crappy at the best of times. My 335 has a better carb with a lower nozzle and runs flawless
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## 1steve (Sep 25, 2010)

3 of us only ones interested in fixing these carb's ?
great info you posted ZC thanks


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## Zombiechopper (Sep 25, 2010)

1steve said:


> 3 of us only ones interested in fixing these carb's ?
> great info you posted ZC thanks



I just wanted all this info in one place. I need to try epoxy blocking the pump on one soon. I'm going to let Will go first though!


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## Zombiechopper (Sep 26, 2010)

fixed!

cash money in the bank if it saves a guy $140!



parrisw said:


> Yes, just got home from work, threw the carb back together and put it on the saw. And.......................................
> ...................
> ................................................................
> .............................................
> ...


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## Zombiechopper (Sep 26, 2010)

$%^




parrisw said:


> Here it is.
> 
> 
> <object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/icTdzg6b2u8?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/icTdzg6b2u8?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>


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## Zombiechopper (May 31, 2011)

another carb solution from stevo-supremo:



Steveo_supremo said:


> The WT-326 is not prone to problems at all. It is a quality carb unlike the POS chinese Zama carbs on the newer 200T`s. The only problem is that it`s a fixed jet with no Hi adjustment. If You want a fully adjustable carb, get a WT-215 from a 021/023/025 or MS 210/230/250. Here is one You will have to swap the throttle and choke shafts from the WT-326 over to the WT-215 and rotate the fuel inlet elbow 90 degrees. I am running this setup on my 020T and it works great! I hate Zama carbs.
> Nice job getting a 020T for $15 BTW. They are a great saw. I like them better than the 200T because they don`t have those ridiculous flip caps.


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## Steveo_supremo (May 31, 2011)

Just keep in mind that You have to get the shafts from a WT-326. The Zama shafts won`t fit the Walbro carb.


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## belgian (Oct 29, 2011)

I did use my MS200 today and that ####### Zama carb started acting up...a problem which I was waiting for given all the problems mentioned before.
Saw starts well but throttle response is delayed and the saw dies at idle. Tuning did not help, so I suspect the accelerator pumpo O ring is leaking.

A big shame really that such an expensive saw comes with a chinese Zama turd carb...I'd be ashamed if I were Mr Stihl.


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## belgian (Nov 2, 2011)

> Talking about 200T's, here's some info on their dodgy accel pump carbs, this leaky 200T carb has been hack-sawed in half for a looksee inside. Tracing the accel pump circuit, it runs to the main nozzle. On this one the O-ring on the accel pump piston is actually worn down to less diameter than the piston, but the bore and piston themselves are still pristine condition. That non-sealing O-ring leaks air directly to the main nozzle. Bung in a new O-ring, you'd be good to go again.



Does anyone have specs about the O-ring itself ? Looks like the simpliest solution to me. My carb is a S1QS96A.
Or should I just JB weld the pump piston hole ? Whatcha think ?


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## belgian (Nov 4, 2011)

belgian said:


> Does anyone have specs about the O-ring itself ? Looks like the simpliest solution to me. My carb is a S1QS96A.
> Or should I just JB weld the pump piston hole ? Whatcha think ?




Since nobody seems to know the answer, I went through my shop yesterday and found an O-Ring that was a perfect match for the size. I installed it today on the accelerator pump .....and the saw runs top notch. A 02ct ring saves me buying a new carb of 74 euro (103 $) ....easy money.

The O-ring specs wer R-01 with 3 mm ID. Seems like a winner. The only concern I have if a special type of rubber is needed. Time will tell.


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## parrisw (Nov 5, 2011)

belgian said:


> Since nobody seems to know the answer, I went through my shop yesterday and found an O-Ring that was a perfect match for the size. I installed it today on the accelerator pump .....and the saw runs top notch. A 02ct ring saves me buying a new carb of 74 euro (103 $) ....easy money.
> 
> The O-ring specs wer R-01 with 3 mm ID. Seems like a winner. The only concern I have if a special type of rubber is needed. Time will tell.



Not sure about the oring. The one I plugged off is just fine, and still has very fast acceleration. The problem usually is a o-ring wont fix it because the body is galled, glue it and never have to worry again.


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## ZeroJunk (Nov 21, 2011)

I have a 200T in the shop now with this poor acceleration problem.

Can I simply JB Weld the orifice under the welch plug or do I need to remove the plunger as well.

It's not my saw and I have some concern about getting the screw out of the shaft and back in so it will stay put.

Simpler the better for me. Thanks


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## parrisw (Nov 21, 2011)

ZeroJunk said:


> I have a 200T in the shop now with this poor acceleration problem.
> 
> Can I simply JB Weld the orifice under the welch plug or do I need to remove the plunger as well.
> 
> ...



I don't know, never tried it that way. You could always try.


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## fj40chance (Nov 28, 2011)

parrisw said:


> I don't know, never tried it that way. You could always try.



I did and it didn't work


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## SkippyKtm (Nov 28, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Not sure about the oring. The one I plugged off is just fine, and still has very fast acceleration. The problem usually is a o-ring wont fix it because the body is galled, glue it and never have to worry again.



I just want to get this clear in my mind: When you plug off the accel pump circuit, do you pull the welch plug, throttle shaft, and the accell plunger and spring. Do you then fill the entire hole with epoxy where the accell plunger used to be leaving the plunger and spring removed?:msp_unsure:


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## ZeroJunk (Nov 28, 2011)

fj40chance said:


> I did and it didn't work



Mine has the 61e carb. The brass plunger was worn pretty bad. I went ahead and ordered the kit. Should be here this week.


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## ZeroJunk (Dec 9, 2011)

Well, the accelerator kit fixed it for $8.50. We'll see how long it lasts. Thanks to everybody for the info.


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## TimberMcPherson (Jun 27, 2012)

Great thread, I hate MS200T carbs.


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## parrisw (Nov 21, 2012)

Just thought I'd add I fixed another bad 200T carb today with the JB weld treatment. Also want to add that the very first one I fixed a little over 2 years ago is still running today in a commercial environment, in a tree service. 

This one is I think, is the 4th one I've fixed, all of them running in tree service's. It literally takes me 15 minutes of time and maybe about a penny's worth of JB weld.


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## angelo c (Nov 21, 2012)

Will, 
I've tried 3 so far and can't get it right. I'm sending a box of bad carbs up your way next week....

Thanks 
A


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## dingeryote (Nov 21, 2012)

Glad to see this one bumped back up.

Just picked up two more wayward 200T's. :bang:

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## psuiewalsh (Nov 21, 2012)

I epoxied the accel piston in mine and the idle/low adjustment actually works. I did this a few months ago and not an issue since. Thanks for the pointer.


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## ZeroJunk (Nov 21, 2012)

The one that I replaced the piston in is still running in commercial service as well.

One thing I noticed watching him work is that he is constantly revving the saw up and down when he works through a twig. I don't know whether that is nervous habit or he has his reasons, but it has to be hell on the pump.

If they run OK welded shut I would think that would be the way to go.


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## ZeroJunk (Nov 21, 2012)

PS. Can one of the mods change the spelling so a newbie can find it in a search ?


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## parrisw (Nov 21, 2012)

angelo c said:


> Will,
> I've tried 3 so far and can't get it right. I'm sending a box of bad carbs up your way next week....
> 
> Thanks
> A



Really, that sucks.


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## angelo c (Nov 21, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Really, that sucks.



that I can't get them to work or that I will have to pay the duty fees when you send them back all working and all better....

hehe...

let me know if you find the check in the box....hehe.!!!!


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## parrisw (Nov 21, 2012)

angelo c said:


> that I can't get them to work or that I will have to pay the duty fees when you send them back all working and all better....
> 
> hehe...
> 
> let me know if you find the check in the box....hehe.!!!!



Send them if you want, unmolested carbs only!


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## angelo c (Nov 21, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Send them if you want, unmolested carbs only!



aww shucks I figured the Molestered ones would be good for a few laughs...


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## Zippy (Nov 21, 2012)

*Me too!*

I had really good results following advice on this thread - got two MS200t's back into service, one for a tree surgeon.


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## NewToStihl (Apr 11, 2013)

ZeroJunk said:


> Well, the accelerator kit fixed it for $8.50. We'll see how long it lasts. Thanks to everybody for the info.



Maybe I missed something, and if so I apologize, but what exactly is the accelerator kit, and where can I get it? I don't see it in the IPL nor anywhere on ebay?

My 200T is having throttle response issues and it sounds like this will help me as I have the same carb. Thanks!!


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## Zombiechopper (Apr 11, 2013)

ZeroJunk said:


> PS. Can one of the mods change the spelling so a newbie can find it in a search ?



I very specifically named it so that it could be found in a search. Or so that I could find it  

try searching '200T carburetor' and see what you find  The search engine will grab carbitooter without a ton of other junk though.

edit: just tried searching '200t Carb' and it found 846 threads LOL!


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## LowVolt (Jun 5, 2013)

So last fall I dumped the fuel out of my 200t and ran it out of gas. Just put gas in it tonight. It pops on full choke, runs on half choke half throttle but as soon as I hit the trigger to kick it down to idle it dies. I know the carb is a zama c1Q series but not sure of the exact model. Do I try this epoxy/jbweld method?


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## lone wolf (Sep 29, 2013)

Just tried the Jb weld on the passage and removed the pump the saw works great. I don't notice any lack of throttle response.  Anyone need help with this ?


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## ptjeep (Sep 29, 2013)

Heres a thread i did with step by step pics of the process. Guess i should have posted a link to it when i did it.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/238372.htm


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## lone wolf (Sep 29, 2013)

ptjeep said:


> Heres a thread i did with step by step pics of the process. Guess i should have posted a link to it when i did it.
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/238372.htm



I drove the brass plug in with a punch and it came out the hole on the side. Don't go to far or it will get stuck below the hole go slow . And just a little JB weld dont go crazy.


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## dl5205 (Feb 21, 2014)

Bumped for reference.


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## dingeryote (Feb 22, 2014)

Old school Tagosis.


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## ZeroJunk (Apr 9, 2014)

Well, the tree service customer brought the 200T back where I had replaced the accelerator pump in Dec 2011. It was shot again. I asked him how much he had used it and he said a lot whatever that means. Anyhow, since the carbs can be had for $88 I just replaced the carb. Since I had red loctited and peened the screws I was afraid to try it again anyway.


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## lone wolf (Apr 9, 2014)

I delete it and seal it off. Still running.


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## lone wolf (Apr 9, 2014)




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## stihl038x2 (Jul 5, 2014)

Just wondering if the pics for this thread are available elsewhere ? I can't see anything.

Steve


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## lone wolf (Jul 5, 2014)

stihl038x2 said:


> Just wondering if the pics for this thread are available elsewhere ? I can't see anything.
> 
> Steve


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## lone wolf (Jul 5, 2014)

Can you see the pic in the post before this?


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## stihl038x2 (Jul 5, 2014)

Yours are the only ones I can see. However I did find another thread ,200t Caruretor accel pump block off, which has pics.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/200t-carburetor-accel-pump-block-off.238372/

Steve


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## lone wolf (Jul 6, 2014)

You don't need to do all that just pick the plate out of the passage like in my pic clean and JB weld the port shut simple. Nothing else.


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## mikeboyer (Jul 9, 2014)

lone wolf said:


> You don't need to do all that just pick the plate out of the passage like in my pic clean and JB weld the port shut simple. Nothing else.


Thanks for clarifying that! I suspected you are blocking the Pump to Main circuit with this mod, and now I think you've verified that guess. Thanks for clearing that up, it beats 70-80 bucks for a new 020t Zama that could be discontinued at any time. I have a "Known" good one I keep around just for testing. Big Thanks Lone Wolf!


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## lone wolf (Jul 9, 2014)

mikeboyer said:


> Thanks for clarifying that! I suspected you are blocking the Pump to Main circuit with this mod, and now I think you've verified that guess. Thanks for clearing that up, it beats 70-80 bucks for a new 020t Zama that could be discontinued at any time. I have a "Known" good one I keep around just for testing. Big Thanks Lone Wolf!


Let me know if it works it usually does.


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## mikeboyer (Jul 9, 2014)

Wiil Do!


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## belgian (Jul 11, 2014)

I had to look up this thread since my MS200 started acting up again. I did replace the O-ring first as described before, but it proved only to be a temporary fix. I did JB weld the accelerator pump today and fixed it once and for all. The saw accelerates just as well as before, no issues at all. Great fix, great thread.


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## nikb47 (Aug 25, 2014)

Hey fellas I'd like to add to this. 

If you're swapping over to the WT-215 there is something you will need to do. 

See the little corner where the linkage is hitting the carb?












It needs to be ground off like the original carb:





If you don't do this the linkage hits on the carb holding the throttle open, rendering your idle adjustment screw useless... It took me a while to figure this one out.


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## mikeboyer (Aug 25, 2014)

lone wolf said:


> Let me know if it works it usually does.


Regarding "Did It Work?", Yes on 2 saws so far--I bought an 020t carb -Stihl p/n 1129 120 0650 for 80 bucks from the local dealer ( I remember seeing $65 on here, but maybe things went up since then) And I've used that carb as my "Known Good" unit for a quick swap diagnosis. We have 8 complete 200t's, 2 old 020t's, both have broken cranks at the base of where the clutch threads on (happened while running, not from Bad mechanic W/O LH thread understanding) and a few "parts saws" that are pretty picked over. 
Thanks again for the repair tip-Much easier than pulling the throttle shaft and accel pump! We're 2 for 2 using the "Lone Wolf" method!


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## MarkB (Jun 2, 2015)

When did Stihl start shipping ms200(t) with good carbs?

I can buy a ms200 (rear handle) from 2007 here in Europe for 225 EUR (about 250 USD). I'm hesitating because of all the carb problems i'm reading about here...


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## lone wolf (Jun 2, 2015)

mikeboyer said:


> Regarding "Did It Work?", Yes on 2 saws so far--I bought an 020t carb -Stihl p/n 1129 120 0650 for 80 bucks from the local dealer ( I remember seeing $65 on here, but maybe things went up since then) And I've used that carb as my "Known Good" unit for a quick swap diagnosis. We have 8 complete 200t's, 2 old 020t's, both have broken cranks at the base of where the clutch threads on (happened while running, not from Bad mechanic W/O LH thread understanding) and a few "parts saws" that are pretty picked over.
> Thanks again for the repair tip-Much easier than pulling the throttle shaft and accel pump! We're 2 for 2 using the "Lone Wolf" method!


Hey I'm close do you need cranks? I could fix them for you , buy or trade or work some deal out.


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## lone wolf (Jun 2, 2015)

MarkB said:


> When did Stihl start shipping ms200(t) with good carbs?
> 
> I can buy a ms200 (rear handle) from 2007 here in Europe for 225 EUR (about 250 USD). I'm hesitating because of all the carb problems i'm reading about here...


They didn't, even the newest ones right up to the last days they were sold still have accelerator pump issues after about a year.


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## fatgraderman (Jun 2, 2015)

My rear handle was purchased the last year the 200's were offered and the carb was crap from new. The new carb for the rear handle is one # off the top handle (I think the top handle # ends in a 3 and rear handle ends in a 4). When mine went off warranty, I put the new carb on and that saw is an animal now. Never ran so good. New carb was $90 canadian.


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## lone wolf (Jun 2, 2015)

fatgraderman said:


> My rear handle was purchased the last year the 200's were offered and the carb was crap from new. The new carb for the rear handle is one # off the top handle (I think the top handle # ends in a 3 and rear handle ends in a 4). When mine went off warranty, I put the new carb on and that saw is an animal now. Never ran so good. New carb was $90 canadian.


Quite overpriced those little Chinese carbs are!


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## fatgraderman (Jun 2, 2015)

It was cheap though compared to what that saw cost before that in downtime and running back and forth to the dealers for warranty. The dealers rebuilt the first carb, then swapped it for another dud carb, and then rebuilt that carb. They replaced fuel lines, broke a bolt in the muffler then drilled through the side of it trying to drill it out. Then it went off warranty and it still didn't run. I read about the new carb on either a Mastermind thread or Snelling thread. Now the saw runs awesome and all is forgiven, but all the other saws I bought for the same money (261 arctic, The 241c-m was less $), and they were awesome out of the box.


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## lone wolf (Jun 2, 2015)

fatgraderman said:


> It was cheap though compared to what that saw cost before that in downtime and running back and forth to the dealers for warranty. The dealers rebuilt the first carb, then swapped it for another dud carb, and then rebuilt that carb. They replaced fuel lines, broke a bolt in the muffler then drilled through the side of it trying to drill it out. Then it went off warranty and it still didn't run. I read about the new carb on either a Mastermind thread or Snelling thread. Now the saw runs awesome and all is forgiven, but all the other saws I bought for the same money (261 arctic, The 241c-m was less $), and they were awesome out of the box.


Do you still have the carbs?


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## fatgraderman (Jun 2, 2015)

The second one. First one the dealer kept.


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## fatgraderman (Jun 2, 2015)

There was a point where I would have paid same as my 660 cost for a saw comparable to the 200 so I could get back to carving. It was my key saw.


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## Paragon Builder (Jul 5, 2015)

Is the 192t the same? Seems to be acting in just this way.


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## Zombiechopper (Jul 5, 2015)

I've been away from saws for a few years due to health problems. Just getting back into things a little at a time. Glad to see this thread gets some use still. 

As for the 192T acting up, start a thread and describe the symptoms. They don't use the same carb and there are many things that can cause similar issues.


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 5, 2015)

Zombie its been a while....good to see ya, you've haven't missed a damn thing[emoji1]


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## Zombiechopper (Jul 5, 2015)

yeah, it still smells like farts in here. But I like it that way


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## Dan Forsh (Jul 6, 2015)

KenJax Tree said:


> Zombie its been a while....good to see ya, you've haven't missed a damn thing[emoji1]



Surely he must have missed another oil thread or two?

Welcome back anyway!

BTW the farty smell is lone wolf ( I think it's his diet)


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## lone wolf (Jul 6, 2015)

Dan Forsh said:


> Surely he must have missed another oil thread or two?
> 
> Welcome back anyway!
> 
> BTW the farty smell is lone wolf ( I think it's his diet)


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## Dan Forsh (Jul 6, 2015)




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## tree_chomper (Jul 18, 2015)

Ok guys I've heard several people that has done this fix with great success, anyone do e it and it not work out?


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## Paragon Builder (Jul 18, 2015)

Well I just tried it in my 192t. I couldn't get it to keep a tune. Pulled out the pump and the brass piston was all worn. So I epoxied it. Now it will start and idle. But no matter what I do it falls on it's face when I blip the throttle. So either I got epoxy somewhere I shouldn't, or it just don't work on the 192t carbs...[emoji20]


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## Zombiechopper (Jul 18, 2015)

welp, I told you to post a thread describing symptoms and you would get advice. You might have an air leak somewhere.


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 18, 2015)

Zombiechopper said:


> welp, I told you to post a thread describing symptoms and you would get advice. You might have an air leak somewhere.


Maybe his air leak is causing the fart smell


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## lone wolf (Jul 18, 2015)

tree_chomper said:


> Ok guys I've heard several people that has done this fix with great success, anyone do e it and it not work out?


You aint tried it yet?


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## Paragon Builder (Jul 18, 2015)

Zombiechopper said:


> welp, I told you to post a thread describing symptoms and you would get advice. You might have an air leak somewhere.


Yes. Yes you did! [emoji2] but I'm kind of stubborn and just wanted to try it. I learn by more when I screw up! I only do that on my stuff though. I'm pretty sure it's the carb though. But I've been wrong before. I'll pressure and vac it soon. Pull the carb apart and see if I got epoxy squeezed in anywhere I shouldn't have.


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## Paragon Builder (Jul 18, 2015)

KenJax Tree said:


> Maybe his air leak is causing the fart smell


Is that what that is? [emoji12]


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## fatgraderman (Jul 18, 2015)

Paragon Builder said:


> Yes. Yes you did! [emoji2] but I'm kind of stubborn and just wanted to try it. I learn by more when I screw up! I only do that on my stuff though. I'm pretty sure it's the carb though. But I've been wrong before. I'll pressure and vac it soon. Pull the carb apart and see if I got epoxy squeezed in anywhere I shouldn't have.


Did you try a carb kit first? I suppose that carb is oddball and not related to the ms170 or ms250 carbs at all, but I had good luck putting kits in those. Not so much with the ms200 carbs- they were manufactured by Gremlins.


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## Paragon Builder (Jul 18, 2015)

fatgraderman said:


> Did you try a carb kit first? I suppose that carb is oddball and not related to the ms170 or ms250 carbs at all, but I had good luck putting kits in those. Not so much with the ms200 carbs- they were manufactured by Gremlins.


No but I did pull it apart and clean it. 
I figured since it had an accelerator pump I would try the mod. It's set up the same way as the 200t accelerator pump off the throttle shaft. Ran much better before. I just couldn't get it to hold a tune. Seems that I should have been able to richen up the low screw to compensate. But I went pretty far and it would still fall flat. I've got to spend some time with it. I only had 5 min. Been busy!


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## tree_chomper (Jul 19, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> You aint tried it yet?



I finally tried it today on 3 of them. 1 of them I tried and it still ain't running worth a sh!#? The saw I put it on is a good running saw so I know that's not it. I didn't use jb weld, i used this putty stuff instead. Don't know if that why it didn't work or not? Still have 2 more to try tomorrow though so hopefully 2 out of 3 will work!


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## Zombiechopper (Jul 30, 2015)

I've been trying to do one for a couple days now. Fricken thing has me stumped. Can't get the throttle shaft out to save my life. It's like that shaft is swaged in. I put an 020T spare on but I need that carb for a build. Might have to try a WT215 for this saw.


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## lone wolf (Jul 31, 2015)

Zombiechopper said:


> I've been trying to do one for a couple days now. Fricken thing has me stumped. Can't get the throttle shaft out to save my life. It's like that shaft is swaged in. I put an 020T spare on but I need that carb for a build. Might have to try a WT215 for this saw.


PM inbound


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## Kwoody51 (Sep 24, 2015)

Can any of you tell me if my carb has an accel pump that needs to be blocked (see photos). It doesn't appear to me to have one....

I ask as my saw has a ever so slight delay off idle, like 0.1 seconds. I just replaced the tank vent, pick up line, tank filter and rebuilt the carb. Before this work the saw would fall on its face. It would idle but couldn't be revved up, it would just bog and then die with almost any throttle.


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2015)

Kwoody51 said:


> Can any of you tell me if my carb has an accel pump that needs to be blocked (see photos). It doesn't appear to me to have one....
> 
> I ask as my saw has a ever so slight delay off idle, like 0.1 seconds. I just replaced the tank vent, pick up line, tank filter and rebuilt the carb. Before this work the saw would fall on its face. It would idle but couldn't be revved up, it would just bog and then die with almost any throttle.


This is what it would look like . The arrow area.


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## sprdave (Sep 19, 2016)

Put me down for one more carb fixed by gluing the accelerator pump shut without the spring in it. I've purchased many carb kits thinking the next one would fix it. Replaced the carb intake boot, pulse/fuel line, all that. I think that any 200T that's still around that has an accelerator pump in it, that runs on Northern California pump premium can't possibly run well. At least the accelerator pump is suspect. If the O-ring crumbles, that's a clue. I knew I was on to something when I pulled the shaft out and the piston went flying over my head. Please, if you're having issues with your 200T carb, pull the piston out of the accelerator pump thing and at least look at it. This is what the saw runs like when it has a dried out, leaking accelerator pump piston:  Yes I'm a slob and I don't clean up until I'm tripping over previous projects.


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## rngrchad (Jun 16, 2018)

Well. Bought a 200T today. Am I ever glad to have found this thread! IT runs pretty strong but has a bog/stumble at low rpm before ramping up into max revs. Idles ok, starts ok, but the tune seems kind of haphazard like its changing constantly. also the idle will be good for 5 minutes of cutting then it seems to speed itself up. Going to check for air leaks first then probably put a carb in it. This thing looks like it’s been dropped from 60ft a few Times. I’ll orobably post a video of its cantankerous personality tommorow.


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## lone wolf (Jun 17, 2018)




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## rngrchad (Jun 20, 2018)

Finally had time to dig into the saw some more. I can't lie I spent probably 2 hours fiddling with it, cleaning the tank, new fuel filter, pulled the carb twice, cleaned it twice. Still had a bog on the bottom end, with erratic idle, and I felt I was always chasing the carb screws to get it to hold a tune.
Found out it was the fuel line. Made a vidja. MAybe it'll help someone. CAn't wait to get up off the ground and see how she handles in a saddle. I've got 200 bucks into this saw. She's pretty rough looking but I've got high hopes for her. Cylinder was cherry. Piston was solid. Hardy any crank shaft side to side play. 



<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JvlqeAm6DFU" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>


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## lone wolf (Jun 21, 2018)

rngrchad said:


> Finally had time to dig into the saw some more. I can't lie I spent probably 2 hours fiddling with it, cleaning the tank, new fuel filter, pulled the carb twice, cleaned it twice. Still had a bog on the bottom end, with erratic idle, and I felt I was always chasing the carb screws to get it to hold a tune.
> Found out it was the fuel line. Made a vidja. MAybe it'll help someone. CAn't wait to get up off the ground and see how she handles in a saddle. I've got 200 bucks into this saw. She's pretty rough looking but I've got high hopes for her. Cylinder was cherry. Piston was solid. Hardy any crank shaft side to side play.
> 
> 
> ...



Nice, now you have a climbing saw.


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## rngrchad (Jun 21, 2018)

lone wolf said:


> Nice, now you have a climbing saw.


I haven’t looked into it closely yet, but it appears to be leaking bar oil at the lower left AV mount. Have you ever seen that?


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## grizz55chev (Jun 21, 2018)

rngrchad said:


> I haven’t looked into it closely yet, but it appears to be leaking bar oil at the lower left AV mount. Have you ever seen that?


Check the flippy cap.


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## lone wolf (Jun 21, 2018)

rngrchad said:


> I haven’t looked into it closely yet, but it appears to be leaking bar oil at the lower left AV mount. Have you ever seen that?


No but the oil caps are always leaking. Try a new O ring and unscrew the lower av buffer and look and see if the hole is damaged or tampered with while you are at it. I have seen people drill and tap them, it could go through to to the oil reservoir if drilled deep.


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## Tinman204 (Oct 1, 2019)

Bumped this thread!!

Put me down as another who has fixed the 200t carb stumble issue. 

I used @lone wolf s trick and just sealed off the passage behind the welsh plug on the front of the carb. 

Saw runs amazing!

Thanks lone wolf!!

I got 7 more of these saws to build and now i dont have to buy 7 more carbs!!


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## lone wolf (Oct 1, 2019)

Tinman204 said:


> Bumped this thread!!
> 
> Put me down as another who has fixed the 200t carb stumble issue.
> 
> ...


I just used that fix a day ago on a Zama 126 and with good results.


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## Tinman204 (Oct 1, 2019)

Zama 126 was what I just did it to also. The saw rips good now.


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## lone wolf (Oct 2, 2019)

Tinman204 said:


> Bumped this thread!!
> 
> Put me down as another who has fixed the 200t carb stumble issue.
> 
> ...


You would be lucky to repair 7 in a row and have 100 percent work. There is always one that's a problem no matter what you do to it.


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## Tinman204 (Oct 2, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> You would be lucky to repair 7 in a row and have 100 percent work. There is always one that's a problem no matter what you do to it.



Im good with that. 

I think I can easiky build 5 out of 8 so if I can make 2 or 3 mpre carbs work I'm way ahead.


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## lone wolf (Oct 2, 2019)

Tinman204 said:


> Im good with that.
> 
> I think I can easiky build 5 out of 8 so if I can make 2 or 3 mpre carbs work I'm way ahead.


Send me the ones that you cant get working and lets see if i can.


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## Tinman204 (Oct 2, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Send me the ones that you cant get working and lets see if i can.



Sounds like a plan. 

I'll be into this project pretty deep this winter, so we'll have to see how lucky I am with the carbs.


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## Tinman204 (Oct 2, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Send me the ones that you cant get working and lets see if i can.



I have 2 more s126's here and theres a couple more that are different models.. 1 is off a 020t so no pump on that one. 

Ill go through them saturday and see if I can repair them.

I tried my test ms200t saw with the 126 carb I fixed after work today. 

Saw started easier, idles better and man does it rip now. I did some fine tuning once the saw warmed up and put 2 tanks through it and the saw ran perfect!

Lone wolf, thanks for the tip. You are the 200t king for sure!


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