# Stihl MS880 59"/60" Bar



## Trigger-Time (May 8, 2009)

I'm looking to buy a longer bar for my 880, anyone priced a Stihl 59" bar as of late? 
I know if I buy a Stihl bar I will have to change tip from .404 to .375

I see that Baileys sell a 60" WoodlandPRO 3/8 pitch for $370
I have read here Baileys WoodlandPRO is made by Cannon.
Are the two the same bars under the paint?


TT


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## Evan (May 9, 2009)

ive come to realize anything is possible. i bet the husky bars could be made to mount on the large mount stills with nothing more than grinder and possibly drill or dremel to get oiling holes to match up


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## BIGBORE577 (May 9, 2009)

Trigger-Time said:


> I'm looking to buy a longer bar for my 880, anyone priced a Stihl 59" bar as of late?
> I know if I buy a Stihl bar I will have to change tip from .404 to .375
> 
> I see that Baileys sell a 60" WoodlandPRO 3/8 pitch for $370
> ...



Yes the WoodlandPro bars are made by Cannon, just a different paint job. That is info I got directly from Cannon during a phone conversation with them.


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## Trigger-Time (May 9, 2009)

BIGBORE577 said:


> Yes the WoodlandPro bars are made by Cannon, just a different paint job. That is info I got directly from Cannon during a phone conversation with them.



Thanks,


TT


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## William Balaska (May 9, 2009)

The 59 inch still bar is duramatic 404 it takes 173 drive links, no roller from still at that length, I have one.


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## Trigger-Time (May 9, 2009)

William Balaska said:


> The 59 inch still bar is duramatic 404 it takes 173 drive links, no roller from still at that length, I have one.



William, How old is your bar? Stihl may have changed their bars or made a typo
in their catalog.

I may be reading it wrong, but if a bar has a pitch it has a sprocket nose.

Hard nose bars have a gauge but no pitch, you can run any pitch 
you want on a hard nose.

Below is from Stihl web site, 

MS 880*** RS = Exchangeable Sprocket Nose D = STIHL DUROMATIC
3/8" .063" 
21" 75 36RSC3-75 3002 000 9123 RS 10


.404" .063" 
25" 80 46RS-80** 3002 000 9731* RS 12
30" 91 46RS-91** 3002 000 9741* RS
36" 108 46RS-108** 3002 000 9753* RS
41" 123 46RS-123** 3002 000 9757* RS
*59" 173 46RS-173*** 3002 000 9576 RS 12*


36" 104 46RS-104** 3002 001 8052* D
41" 123 46RS-123 3002 000 8058* D
47" 138 46RS-138** 3002 000 8064* D


TT


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## William Balaska (May 9, 2009)

I believe 93 or 94 but I looked at my 07 catalog and 59 inch duramatic is the only one listed. Mine is NOS I'll sell it if interested for $200 to your door, minor scratches but unused I don't have tha chain It is about $47 from bailey's for the full skip at 173 links. Just thought I'd offer to big for me!


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## Trigger-Time (May 9, 2009)

William Balaska said:


> I believe 93 or 94 but I looked at my 07 catalog and 59 inch duramatic is the only one listed. Mine is NOS I'll sell it if interested for $200 to your door, minor scratches but unused I don't have tha chain It is about $47 from bailey's for the full skip at 173 links. Just thought I'd offer to big for me!



Thanks for the offer.

It will be used for milling bigger logs, I do want a sprocket nose.

Here is where I got the information...


TT


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## William Balaska (May 9, 2009)

I don't blame you, I bought it just in case! Big mill five footer.


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## Trigger-Time (May 9, 2009)

William Balaska said:


> I don't blame you, I bought it just in case! Big mill five footer.



Biggest logs I have is 48" and my longest bar is 41". I could cut it into a cant,
but want some slabs with live edges.





TT


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## BobL (May 12, 2009)

Here a solution to this problem I'm working on.

I have a Stihl 60" with 404/063 nose sprocket, (and a GB 60" with 063 roller nose) AND a spare nose. Like this.






I want to run 3/8 063 chain on the Stihl bar so I made this adapter plate.





Together it looks like this. Seeing as it's just for milling the protruding tensile stell allen bolt heads and nuts don't matter.





Alignment came out pretty good I thought.





The steel I had is harder than mild steel but it's not as hard as bar steel which means it will wear too quickly for practical use. The two outer plates of this adapter are prototypes. I am in the process of getting some spring steel which I will anneal- then fabricate and then reharden.


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## Brownpot Deaton (May 12, 2009)

that is just plain awesome. so lucky to have you on this forum bobL. id rep you but ive been out for awhile.....


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## Trigger-Time (May 12, 2009)

Brownpot Deaton said:


> that is just plain awesome. so lucky to have you on this forum bobL. id rep you but ive been out for awhile.....




:agree2:


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## BobL (May 12, 2009)

Cheers guys! I forgot to add that those inside curves were made by 
- Tracing around the existing nose onto some steel plate, 
- drilling out the concaves curves with a drill that was within 1/32 of the line.
- Using a fine kerf cut off wheel mounted in a small old table saw cut down to the holes.
- Mounting a carbide grinding tip from a die grinder into a drill press, slowly grind away remaining excess and smooth curves and creep up onto the fit on the bar. It took about 30 minutes per side. But I don't worry about how long it takes - I like the voyage as much as the destination.


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## B_Turner (May 12, 2009)

Very cool, Bob.

I think ES bars are great and in general my favorite for a good blend of quality weight and price. I have around ten through 41 inches.

But in the really long lengths, like 60 inches, I prefer the Cannon bars. The extra stiffness is a real asset.

But for say 41 and down, the ES bars are excellent and less weight of the Cannons. If Stihl made ES bars for other mounts that is what I would buy for all my saws. I know one could fashion adapters, but mostly that is too much fiddling to suit me.

I still would like to find a ready made adapter that fit a 7900 to stihls bars, though.


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## 2dogs (May 12, 2009)

I just bought a 60" Cannon for my 090 off ebay. It came with two 404 chains that looked new. Search using "Cannon Bar" as your search word. That 60" bar is a bear to handle!


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## B_Turner (May 12, 2009)

2dogs said:


> I just bought a 60" Cannon for my 090 off ebay. It came with two 404 chains that looked new. Search using "Cannon Bar" as your search word. That 60" bar is a bear to handle!



I agree, the 60 incher is a handfull. Makes a 50 seem like a sportscar.

I use the 50s alot but the 60 very seldom.


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## 2dogs (May 13, 2009)

I hope I can join the 50" club soon.


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## MCW (May 13, 2009)

I have a brand new 60" GB .063" Hi Tech Professional Titanium Roller nose (to suit 880) in stock if you ever wanted to consider getting it posted to the US. Personally I like them over a sprocket nose but each to their own. It would have to be drilled to suit a mill though. PM me if interested. With our current exchange rate it would probably be pretty appealing! It also comes with Husky and medium Stihl adaptors. I'm pretty sure I could land it in the US well below what you guys would pay, not to mention rumours from reliable sources that all but the GB harvester bars are now getting made in China, possibly even their chain too. 
I run the same bar on my 3120 occasionally and I can assure you its no fun at all but I plan on using it for milling too.


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## BobL (May 14, 2009)

I don't particularly want to labour the point here but I jsut want to show I made the hardened steel adapter using some steel from an old circular saw blade as the two outer plates - these are the ones the chain will ride on .

Hardened steel and original/prototype side by side





This one show the alignments on the Hardened steel version - I'm quite happy with the fit..





I know the steel from the circular saw blade was hard because I got a bit eager with the first pilot hole and well and truly cooked the drill bit. The same drill bit was able to drill all the holes in the prototype without any trouble. So then I slowed down the bit and added coolant and resharpen the pilot bit after every second hole. The carbide die grinder bit was still able to shape the metal OK - albeit a little slower, although this time I felt confident about cutting much closer to the patter line so I had less to grind away.


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## blsnelling (May 14, 2009)

Very nice work, as usual!


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## Brownpot Deaton (May 20, 2009)

*bar length ?*

question...how big a bar does an 880 handle with full comp and hard wood like oak if anyone has run one....been running my husky 2100 with some modifications but tired of breaking my wrist and just got money back form govt....

hoping to buy one and mill pieces up to 60" presently...shortly afterward, would like to get it woodsported...if/when i get it, ill first be contacting brad or Timberwolf when it comes to that.

jorda


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## Stihlman441 (May 21, 2009)

I have just started using a 880 and 50'' bar to cross cut,im going to have arms of steal.


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## MCW (May 21, 2009)

Stihlman441 said:


> I have just started using a 880 and 50'' bar to cross cut,im going to have arms of steal.



I thought I'd have arms of steel using the 3120 with 32-60" bars but I can assure you, I ended up with arms of jelly after some reasonable length days using this setup. I'm not exactly a delicate little flower either  The "fun" aspect of big saws and big bars quickly disappears with reasonably long stints on them...
My forearm diameter has increased to nearly match my biceps though


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## spacemule (May 21, 2009)

MCW said:


> I thought I'd have arms of steel using the 3120 with 32-60" bars but I can assure you, I ended up with arms of jelly after some reasonable length days using this setup. I'm not exactly a delicate little flower either  The "fun" aspect of big saws and big bars quickly disappears with reasonably long stints on them...
> My forearm diameter has increased to nearly match my biceps though



I bet this guy doesn't get arms of jelly. 

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## MCW (May 21, 2009)

spacemule said:


> I bet this guy doesn't get arms of jelly.
> 
> <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ADQ4Bjq42wE&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ADQ4Bjq42wE&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>



I have a funny feeling he may not have any issues swinging an 880/3120 around with any sized bar on it.


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## nmurph (May 21, 2009)

he cheats the rep with his left arm. i have a good friend that i hunt with who does 450lb barbell like that. our gym only has 150lb dumbbells and he handles them pretty easily. he's six-one/255 and not an ounce of fat. you should see how he eats, literally any and everything he wants. his body is like a furnace and just burns it off.


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## BobL (May 21, 2009)

Brownpot Deaton said:


> question...how big a bar does an 880 handle with full comp and hard wood like oak if anyone has run one....been running my husky 2100 with some modifications but tired of breaking my wrist and just got money back form govt....
> 
> hoping to buy one and mill pieces up to 60" presently...shortly afterward, would like to get it woodsported...if/when i get it, ill first be contacting brad or Timberwolf when it comes to that.
> 
> jorda



Have milled up to 48" hardwood (twice as hard as oak) with a 60" bar with full comp 2º top plate chain with the 880 - slow but no problem. The 076 does it OK too - it really gives your sharpening skills a good workout.


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## JimHolland (Oct 12, 2009)

Trigger-Time said:


> I'm looking to buy a longer bar for my 880, anyone priced a Stihl 59" bar as of late?
> I know if I buy a Stihl bar I will have to change tip from .404 to .375
> 
> I see that Baileys sell a 60" WoodlandPRO 3/8 pitch for $370
> ...



MSRP on Stihl 59" P/N 3002 000 9576 .404" pitch, .063" gauge, roller tip teeth 12, $375.85

There are no hard tips of that size (anymore).

Longest hard tip is 47"


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## BloodOnTheIce (Oct 12, 2009)

59" sprocket nose bar 3002 000 9576 that part# retails for 347$


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## brncreeper (Oct 12, 2009)

JimHolland said:


> MSRP on Stihl 59" P/N 3002 000 9576 .404" pitch, .063" gauge, roller tip teeth 12, $375.85
> 
> There are no hard tips of that size (anymore).
> 
> Longest hard tip is 47"


You mean this one?:greenchainsaw:


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## Brownpot Deaton (Oct 12, 2009)

i just bought a 60" cannon bar for about $340 delivered to my house brand new....seems like better deal to me


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## brncreeper (Oct 12, 2009)

The Cannon might work better because of the larger belly. My Stihl bar will "chain de-rail" on the horizonal sometimes.


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## BobL (Oct 13, 2009)

brncreeper said:


> The Cannon might work better because of the larger belly. My Stihl bar will "chain de-rail" on the horizonal sometimes.



I use my 60" bars only for milling which is all horizontal cutting so I am familiar with this derailing problem and is one reason why I made my mill out of ally. 

My 60" GB rollernose is almost a full inch narrower than the Stihl, so the GB is even more likely to derail on the horizontal if not treated right. The most likely time derailing happens to me is at the start of a cut where the chain heats up faster and expands much quicker than than the bar. I have measured the temp of the chain and the bar at the start of a cut while milling and can see the chain gets up to working temp in about 20 seconds whereas the bar takes about 2 - 3 minutes or even longer. What this means in practice is starting a little slower and not going WOT until the bar is buried in the wood. Once the bar is in the wood I never seem to have an problem.

Another contributor to derailing I've found with long bars held at both ends is mid bar sag. The sag is about 0.09" at the 42" mark for both bars and it can be solved with an anti-bar sagging device like these.


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## brncreeper (Oct 13, 2009)

BobL said:


> I use my 60" bars only for milling which is all horizontal cutting so I am familiar with this derailing problem and is one reason why I made my mill out of ally.
> 
> My 60" GB rollernose is almost a full inch narrower than the Stihl, so the GB is even more likely to derail on the horizontal if not treated right. The most likely time derailing happens to me is at the start of a cut where the chain heats up faster and expands much quicker than than the bar. I have measured the temp of the chain and the bar at the start of a cut while milling and can see the chain gets up to working temp in about 20 seconds whereas the bar takes about 2 - 3 minutes or even longer. What this means in practice is starting a little slower and not going WOT until the bar is buried in the wood. Once the bar is in the wood I never seem to have an problem.
> 
> Another contributor to derailing I've found with long bars held at both ends is mid bar sag. The sag is about 0.09" at the 42" mark for both bars and it can be solved with an anti-bar sagging device like these.


I Agree Bob. Once in the wood it is not a problem, and the Cannon would be quite a bit heavier than the GB or Stihl.


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## MR4WD (Oct 13, 2009)

Cannon bars are STUPID heavy, but wear much better than any other bar I've used. I tend to run chain a bit tight on the big bars (sorry crank bearings) and it just doesn't wear the cannon's out.

Price and weight are two things you can't be shy about with those bars. With that you get less sag and way less wear.

Never ran stihl bars.... But if it's anything like their chain, I'd take stihl chain over oregon any day.


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## Bill G (Oct 13, 2009)

There seems to be some discussion about weight. I have the 59" Stihl Duromatic and the 60 inch Oregon. I will have to weigh them.

Bill


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## Brownpot Deaton (Oct 18, 2009)

*just becuase..*

This weekend i went and milled and cut a pecan tree with a 60" cannon bar. first cut with the stihl super rapid i hit a nail within 30 seconds that tore sme of the cutters off, so from then on out i milled the topp half of the trunk, then cut som rounds out of the bottom half for the landowner usng a milling chain i had been using. cut pretty good with an 8 pin sprocket, ut not as good as the regular chain that got busted up( swore i saw my wallet run away when that happened...LOL)....saws been mildly ported and muffler modded for staying on the mill. i only got t keep about half the slabs, i cut, but the landowner was real nice and even had his wife cook some homemade food for me... 

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## Jacob J. (Oct 19, 2009)

Nice looking slabs for sure...By 'light porting' do you mean a change in the port timing or just an overall widening and shaping of the ports? It sounds pretty good under a load. Is it oiling enough?


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## Brownpot Deaton (Oct 19, 2009)

opening up of ports and bigger muffler outlet...upper transfers were agnled bit more to rear, but other wise untouched....it oiled pretty decent..but if i could get more out of it i would...oiler was maxed out.there woldn't happen to be a high output oiler somehow would there????

on th mill, it reved much higher, idn't really care that the bar and mill was 60 inches(NOT cutting width)...if someone slacked off, you'd here it hit the limiter, if someone pushed too hard, the chain would slow to a crawl, but it NEVER stopped...

may be going back in a while to get some mesquite wood.....


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## WoodChuck'r (Oct 19, 2009)

B_Turner said:


> I still would like to find a ready made adapter that fit a 7900 to stihls bars, though.




:agree2:


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## William Balaska (Oct 19, 2009)

Bill G said:


> There seems to be some discussion about weight. I have the 59" Stihl Duromatic and the 60 inch Oregon. I will have to weigh them.
> 
> Bill



Bil do you notice any difference in the speed between the roller nose and the hard nose? I have the 59 Duromatic as well, I've yet to use it.


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## BobL (Oct 19, 2009)

Brownpot Deaton said:


> opening up of ports and bigger muffler outlet...upper transfers were agnled bit more to rear, but other wise untouched....it oiled pretty decent..but if i could get more out of it i would...oiler was maxed out.there woldn't happen to be a high output oiler somehow would there????


Are you running an Aux oiler on the mill?
I find I have to run an Aux oiler even for a 42" bar let alone a 60".

What's that brown stain on the sapwood, is that some kind of spalting?

Bummer about hitting the nail and mangling your chain - it must have been a hardened nail or maybe you just hit it real hard? Usually I just cut through regular nails and later I notice the thing ain't cutting as fast.


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## Brownpot Deaton (Oct 19, 2009)

OH YEAH, deffinantly running an auxilary oiler on the mill, but was wondering about a different oiler for regular cutting conditions..im sure its fine, but i always like to be on the safe side.

actually, since the cuts i filmed were at the end of the day, and i left right after wards, i didn't notice the staining till i saw the pictures. I didn't find much evidence of it tho in the upper portion of the trunk where we were milling, it very well could have been that.

as for the nail, all the ones i saw were oriented radially in the tree, so what ever i hit while cutting the rounds, was most likely in line with the bar....


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## bulletpruf (Mar 1, 2020)

Bumping an ancient thread. I have a Stihl 3001 mount 59" Duromatic - part number 3001 000 9276. Looks like it was manufactured in 1981. Trying to confirm chain DL. Anyone have any details?

Thanks

Scott


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## Justin Taylor (Mar 1, 2020)

bulletpruf said:


> Bumping an ancient thread. I have a Stihl 3001 mount 59" Duromatic - part number 3001 000 9276. Looks like it was manufactured in 1981. Trying to confirm chain DL. Anyone have any details?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Scott


I think 173


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## big hank (Mar 2, 2020)

If anyone has a 50 to 60 inch bar for a large Stihl they would like to sell I'd be interested


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## William Balaska (Mar 2, 2020)

bulletpruf said:


> Bumping an ancient thread. I have a Stihl 3001 mount 59" Duromatic - part number 3001 000 9276. Looks like it was manufactured in 1981. Trying to confirm chain DL. Anyone have any details?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Scott


Should be the same as the current 59 inch roller.


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## cary911 (Mar 3, 2020)




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## cary911 (Mar 3, 2020)

I wonder if the 500 would even pull that???


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