# Millin' again



## aggiewoodbutchr (Jun 24, 2006)

I tried running the 72" mill today solo. Not as bad as I thought it would be. I wouldn't want to make a full day of it though. Hardest part was getting started (and running back and forth to get the pictures). I set the log at a steep angle so it almost fed it self.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jun 24, 2006)

Help arrived. We spent half the day between the CSM and the bandmill. Got some more wide pine slabs and some other miscellaneous lumber.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jun 24, 2006)

more pics.

Things went great until the GB had more problems. The mounting nuts striped away from the bar mount bolts. I wouldn't have imagined this ever to be a problem but I guess the weight of the power head and the stress of the cut got 'em. I know they didn't strip when I mounted and tightened the bar because I made four 12' cuts with it. I was lucky they held until the end of the last cut. 

It was still a good day overall.


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## oldsaw (Jun 25, 2006)

No offense, but YOU SUCK!!! You have WAY too much time to play with wood....never mind me, I'm just jealous. I don't get that much time to cut in a good month.

I'm taking a week off starting July 10th. Yes, sawdust will be made.

Mark


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## carvinmark (Jun 25, 2006)

SWEET pile of wood!!!! I'm re-vamping my CSM for larger logs right now so I can't mill at the moment. Mine is more like the band mill with a 16' deck and mounted on a trailer frame. Soon I will be able to mill about 35" dia. running a 42" bar.
That had to be a real job setting up by yourself with that huge bar! looks like a great time was had.


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## CaseyForrest (Jun 25, 2006)

Yeah, YOU BITE Aggie!!

haha


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## woodshop (Jun 25, 2006)

GREAT pics aggie, I just love seeing milling pics. Some of those look like almost pure quartersawn, will make beautiful tables. I found when milling with my (compared to yours) little 36 inch csm that when alone, as I usually am, starting true and even is the hard part of course. Once its in the log, its OK. I too found that milling downhill, even on a slight angle, REALLY makes the job easier, more so than you would think. Curious where and how you are drying and storing those monsters. As for your striped bolts, have you tried using higher grade bolts like 6 or 8? The standard grades like what came with my GB csm are pretty soft compared to a good hard bolt. Yeah I'm jealous too that you have all that time for milling. I have maybe 2 weekends out of the month to mill wood. Was supposed to slice up some oak this weekend, but it's raining here on and off all weekend, so spent the whole day in the woodshop upgrading my router table instead.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jun 25, 2006)

Thanks for the comments everyone. I got a kick from 'em. 

I really DON'T have this much time for milling. Everything else is just getting further behind. We are putting a few more hours in than usual out of necessity. These logs have been down going on 2 months and I'd hate to loose them. We have a long way to go- ref. (http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=32162).

Woodshop:

We'll stack and sticker the slabs today. I'll post pics. I wish I can find a high grade replacement nut but I don't think I'll have any luck. They appear to be specially made for this mill. Maybe I can find a threaded coupler that will work.


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## Adkpk (Jun 25, 2006)

Here's my effort. A little Sampler I brought down last weedend so I don't jones
to bad during the week. It's yellow birch. I am going to recipricate after Aggie's 
pics with a miilin' thread. Gimme a minute. Thanks for the pics Aggie.


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## woodshop (Jun 26, 2006)

adrpk I love that crotch flitch. Did you put oil on that thing to bring out that detail? Also, did you seal the ends? My experience with crotch flitches, is that some tend to crack more than regular flitch if I let them dry too fast. Especially in the crotch figure itself. Kinda like how a large knot in the middle of a board will often open up with a huge crack through it.

What do you have planned for that chuck of wood? Would make a beautiful rustic coffee table.


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## woodshop (Jun 26, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Woodshop:
> I wish I can find a high grade replacement nut but I don't think I'll have any luck. They appear to be specially made for this mill. Maybe I can find a threaded coupler that will work.


aggie, I found I can usually re-engineer most non standard stuff to fit standard NC or NF (or even standard metric). Often it involves drilling out the offending hole and re-tap with standard, or enlarge a hole to take a slightly larger standard bolt and nut as long as doing so doesn't compromise the integrity of the piece. I've even removed whole sections of something and replaced with a beefier piece machined to fit. I cheat though, I have a cheapo Taiwan metal milling machine, and metal lathe. I use them mostly for woodworking, but occasionally mill up a metal piece when needed. Of course, I havn't seen your problem so I should probably keep quiet.


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## Adkpk (Jun 26, 2006)

woodshop said:


> adrpk I love that crotch flitch. Did you put oil on that thing to bring out that detail? Also, did you seal the ends? My experience with crotch flitches, is that some tend to crack more than regular flitch if I let them dry too fast. Especially in the crotch figure itself. Kinda like how a large knot in the middle of a board will often open up with a huge crack through it.
> 
> What do you have planned for that chuck of wood? Would make a beautiful rustic coffee table.


Yes, linseed oil. Nice, uh. I did not seal the ends and now you have me worried. 
Yes rustic coffee table. I will use this table for playing cards on rainy days in my cabin when it gets built. I started the legs today. I using some cedar (juniper) my buddies got for me a year ago. It dosn't really macth but I am not fussy. I like to use up what is the shop. I'll go pro when I to old to landscape anymore. 
By then I'll have some hands on experience. I'll be looking for you to get advice from.


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## woodshop (Jun 26, 2006)

Adrpk said:


> Yes, linseed oil. Nice, uh. I did not seal the ends and now you have me worried.


Not necessarily a need to worry. It will dry faster if you don't seal the ends. With something that thick, you might be OK anyway, and even if it does split a bit as it dries, might not run that far into your piece. btw, did you know that linseed oil does darken the wood over time, especially in sunlight? I know somebody who had white pine boards covering their kitchen walls. One year they decided to linseed oil them. Less than 8 years down the road, that white pine was a chocolate brown, almost like light walnut.


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## oldsaw (Jun 26, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Thanks for the comments everyone. I got a kick from 'em.
> 
> I really DON'T have this much time for milling. Everything else is just getting further behind. We are putting a few more hours in than usual out of necessity. These logs have been down going on 2 months and I'd hate to loose them. We have a long way to go- ref. (http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=32162).
> 
> ...



Yeah, but I had to wait 2 months before I got to use my 3120. Drove Chopwood almost as nuts as me since he wanted to see how it worked too. Now 3 months later, I've used it twice. Between work, wife having surgery, moving 2 households, fixing my old house to sell, and trying to set my shop back up in the new house....not much play time for me. I get jealous easily these days.

Mark


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jun 27, 2006)

oldsaw said:


> Yeah, but I had to wait 2 months before I got to use my 3120. Drove Chopwood almost as nuts as me since he wanted to see how it worked too. Now 3 months later, I've used it twice. Between work, wife having surgery, moving 2 households, fixing my old house to sell, and trying to set my shop back up in the new house....not much play time for me. I get jealous easily these days.
> 
> Mark




I'm right there with you, bud. I moved 2 months ago and my new "shop" is a wreck, the barn is haphazardly stuffed and I still have to make a trip this week to get the rest of my crap. Thankfully, I have some people moving into my old house this weekend so that will be off my mind. Now if I could just get rid of that work thing, I'll be set.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jun 27, 2006)

woodshop said:


> aggie, I found I can usually re-engineer most non standard stuff to fit standard NC or NF (or even standard metric). Often it involves drilling out the offending hole and re-tap with standard, or enlarge a hole to take a slightly larger standard bolt and nut as long as doing so doesn't compromise the integrity of the piece. I've even removed whole sections of something and replaced with a beefier piece machined to fit. I cheat though, I have a cheapo Taiwan metal milling machine, and metal lathe. I use them mostly for woodworking, but occasionally mill up a metal piece when needed. Of course, I havn't seen your problem so I should probably keep quiet.



GB is sending me some new nuts.(somebody's goung to jump on that) The picture may help you understand the probelm better. Hopefully this was a freak deal. If it happens again I may pay you a visit and borrow your mill and lathe. BTW, how did the router table upgrade go? What did you do to it?


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## Adkpk (Jun 27, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> GB is sending me some new nuts.(somebody's goung to jump on that) The picture may help you understand the probelm better. Hopefully this was a freak deal. If it happens again I may pay you a visit and borrow your mill and lathe. BTW, how did the router table upgrade go? What did you do to it?


Yaaaah, I'm looking for the router table upgrade too. By the way Aggie, how are those nuts?


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jun 27, 2006)

Adrpk said:


> Yaaaah, I'm looking for the router table upgrade too. By the way Aggie, how are those nuts?



Just hangin' out.


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## woodshop (Jun 27, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> BTW, how did the router table upgrade go? What did you do to it?


went well... 10 years ago I built a pretty hefty 24x36 custom router table/cabinet, built up the top to over 2 inches thick as I wanted something that would dampen vibration and needed something real stable. It does, and it is. I had a 3hp Milwaukee hanging from one of those hard plastic inserts with a couple different reduction rings. Worked well for years, but just wasn't dead flat. On small stuff near the center of the insert, I got a deeper rout than a large piece spanning the whole insert because it dished just a tad. So bit the bullet, plunked down $100 and got a Bench Dog solid aluminum insert. Dead flat, solid, no dish whatsoever even with my big router hanging from it. Got the undrilled one though 'cause I didn't want it full of predrilled holes I would never use, so spent the day precisely drilling out to mate it to my router. Then so happens this Bench Dog insert is a bit smaller than my other one, so had to build "in" that 2 inch thick table a bit so my new smaller insert would fit like a glove. I do a lot of semi-mass production when I make product for my shows, so I need to be able to reproduce setups. Thus that insert/router can't move a hair, has to be dead on same place from setup to setup or my jigs won't fit well. So took my time so as to get it right. Was fun, but I shouldh've been milling up that oak...rain... hey its Tues and its STILL raining here in eastern PA. 

Aggie now that I've seen your pics, I see what you mean with your csm mill. Actually, you could take round stock, drill it out and tap one of those custom nuts if you had to. You'd only have to file a flat on two sides for a wrench. Or start with square stock, instant 4 sides to slide a wrench onto. That way you could make it beefier if you wanted. But hey if they're gonna send you some, go for it.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jun 28, 2006)

Woodshop: Sounds like fun. I have a Porter Cable 3.5hp built in to an extention on my table saw. It works fine but I know I'll eventually have to upgrade it similar to what you described.

On the custom bar nut idea, would you mill them from mild steel then harden them or would you start with hardened materal. I had a job in a machine shop in college but I've forgotten most of what I learned there.


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## woodshop (Jun 28, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> On the custom bar nut idea, would you mill them from mild steel then harden them or would you start with hardened material. I had a job in a machine shop in college but I've forgotten most of what I learned there.


sorry aggie, I'm no machinist, there are many on line here who are, you might ask elsewhere, maybe in the non-chainsaw area. I would tackle this by going to onlinemetals.com, getting a harder grade of metal, something equivalent to grade 6 or 8, then machine it from that. I have no experience hardening other than doing a little quick and dirty heating and quenching on my chisels. When tweaking and fixing things like your situation, I often compensate for harder material by making the existing part beefier, often a bit larger. Usually that works for me. Again, I'm no machinist, I'm mostly a woodworker, and ALWAYS learning there too.


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## Adkpk (Jun 28, 2006)

woodshop btw said:


> Linseed oil does turn older wood dark. But new wood, I don't know. I use it to darken the wood a little but I don't want to keep getting darker and darker. What would you have used?


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## woodshop (Jun 28, 2006)

Adrpk said:


> Linseed oil does turn older wood dark. But new wood, I don't know. I use it to darken the wood a little but I don't want to keep getting darker and darker. What would you have used?



Adrpk, I use linseed oil on wood only occasionally, for something I want to keep oiling so it won't dry out, like the fence on a jig, or something outside like the handles on my wheelbarrow. For product I sell at shows, linseed oil doesn't dry fast enough for me, not even boiled, which drys faster than raw, and also it does darken all wood, new and old, and as it ages it will get even darker, especially in sunlight. I initially use Danish oil on almost all my product except things that touch food like bread boards. (they get walnut or sunflower oil). After a day drying, I can finish with lacquer or other. Danish oil will bring out the beauty and color of wood, and although it will darken it, more so for some woods like cherry or walnut, not as bad as pure linseed oil, and it won't continue to darken as much as linseed oil will.


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## MotorSeven (Jun 29, 2006)

Adrpk,
I use Tung oil alot(used to build humidors during the cigar craze), it initially darkens slightly, then stabilizes, forms a good protective barrier and can be sanded/repaired without re-doing the whole piece. I just apply it with a rag. The can will solidify over time if you don't use it up. 
RD


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## Adkpk (Jun 29, 2006)

MotorSeven said:


> Adrpk,
> I use Tung oil alot(used to build humidors during the cigar craze), it initially darkens slightly, then stabilizes, forms a good protective barrier and can be sanded/repaired without re-doing the whole piece. I just apply it with a rag. The can will solidify over time if you don't use it up.
> RD


Got me. That was my next question. I have some tung oil. Thanks Motor. And I'll try that Danish oil someday too, thanks Woodshop.


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## woodshop (Jun 30, 2006)

*"milling again" is correct...*

It just doesn't stop... I just got a call from my Father_in_law, a black walnut tree blew down in his back yard last night, and "do I want any of it"? Guess what I'm doing after work this eve...


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## Adkpk (Jun 30, 2006)

Oh you lucky woodshop. Get those pics of the inside up as soooon as posible. Love the inside of those slabs! Happy forth to all you arborsitsities. I'm off to the woodlot for some cabin building. OH, Boy!!


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jun 30, 2006)

*NOT "milling again"*

Parts to fix the mill haven't come in yet.:angry2:   

Maybe they'll be here tomorrow but I'm not holding my breath.


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## woodshop (Jul 1, 2006)

Adrpk said:


> Oh you lucky woodshop. Get those pics of the inside up as soooon as posible. Love the inside of those slabs! Happy forth to all you arborsitsities. I'm off to the woodlot for some cabin building. OH, Boy!!


Have the take pics today and post. Anybody ever run into any black walnut that is not anything even close to brown, but a dark greenish black? I've run into purple colored walnut, and many shades of brown colored walnut, but never a dark greenish black like this. I figure it was some mineral in soil where it grew. It came from a place that was not well drained. Walnuts don't grow well in that environment. This tree was only 12" dia, and had a lot of sapwood also, but after ripping down to heartwood, still came home with 40 ft of this dark stuff. Enough to make a couple Shaker side tables if it drys OK. Even got a few nice crotch figured boards out of it. Good evening of milling.


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## woodshop (Jul 1, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Parts to fix the mill haven't come in yet.:angry2:
> 
> Maybe they'll be here tomorrow but I'm not holding my breath.



Aggie, looked at your pic again. I think this is something you could make from metal stock with just a vice, hacksaw, grinder, metal files, drill and a good tap and die set. (drill press would help a whole lot). If this is a part that might break again, you might want to make up a couple of these and stick them in your toolbox in case it happens again. Nothing worse than wasting a day somewhere after preparing, packing up, driving somewhere and then your equipment fails you to where it can't be fixed in the field. Almost as bad as when you do something stupid like forget a major part of your setup. I once drove an hour to a log, got set up and realized I had left my Ripsaw blades back in the shop. Lucky for me my wife bailed me out that day, ran them up to me, AND she even brought me a mug of hot chocolate, as it was a bitter cold day. (yup, she's a keeper).


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## flht01 (Jul 1, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Parts to fix the mill haven't come in yet.:angry2:
> 
> Maybe they'll be here tomorrow but I'm not holding my breath.



After looking at the picture, do you think a "hex coupling nuts" would work if you id the diameter and thread size. Most coupling nuts are case hardened, come in sae and metric sizes and can be purchased at most hardware stores.

Kevin


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 1, 2006)

flht01 said:


> After looking at the picture, do you think a "hex coupling nuts" would work if you id the diameter and thread size. Most coupling nuts are case hardened, come in sae and metric sizes and can be purchased at most hardware stores.
> 
> Kevin



Thanks.

I've been looking for 10mm threaded couplers locally since these striped out but have had no luck. I guess I'll have to order them.


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## woodshop (Jul 1, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I've been looking for 10mm threaded couplers locally since these striped out but have had no luck. I guess I'll have to order them.



...could you get by temporarily with several nuts welded together if you have access to a welder? Thread them onto a bolt, snug them up only loosley against one another and then run several beads down the sides. Quick and dirty, but might get you by till the parts came or you could make good ones. 

Aggie, we're just trying to get you millin' again, thats all.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 1, 2006)

I appreciate the concern and suggestions. I am suffering from mild milling withdraw symptoms but sharpening chains and doing some PM on the saw is keeping me stable. (sortta)


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 3, 2006)

*Settin' up some logs for the mill*

I moved some logs that I could handle from the mill yard to my house yesterday. I get on 'em as soon as I find parts to fix the GB mill or I may just pull out the home made rig it that takes too long.

Ain't machines great!


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## woodshop (Jul 3, 2006)

Is that red oak bark I see on that log? Maybe a bit of spalting? Is that a load of stone on that pallet between the logs? Curious what you're going to do with it and why you need to put it under roof?

I want one of them little machines to move logs around.


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## ShoerFast (Jul 3, 2006)

With summer vacations and all, I think we all need to learn to multi-task and fill in the voids.

So here is my attempt at filling temporary vacancies,,,,,,,,

_"Wow, and you posted those pictures like your proud of your work!, what a joke!

By the end of that log , I can tell that you know nothing about how to fell a tree, maybe getting rid of your orange and white rip-off junk and getting a real saw will help?

Did you ever think that having a saw like that in the first place might have been what broke your mill? 

Yaah!, keep the pictures coming and I will tell you what your doing wrong!

Sure are some losers here that think that can mill._"



Hope this helps fill-in , we just need to get tuff and stick it out, things will be back to normal soon!

Kevin


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 3, 2006)

These are water oaks. I knocked off the remaining bark last night to try to stop any additional decay. These have been sitting since April so there may be some spalting. We'll see soon!

Those rocks were left here by the previous owner. I put them there so I don't have to mow around them. They'll eventually be used for landscaping in the yard.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 3, 2006)

ShoerFast said:


> By the end of that log , I can tell that you know nothing about how to fell a tree, maybe getting rid of your orange and white rip-off junk and getting a real saw will help?



This tree was pushed over by an excavator and bucked by a contractor (not me) with a little husky & an 18" bar. But you are correct, I know nothing about how to fell a tree. I'm just the recipient of the logs.



ShoerFast said:


> Yaah!, keep the pictures coming and I will tell you what your doing wrong!



HAHA. Keep responding and I'll tell you how you are interpreting the pictures wrong!:hmm3grin2orange:


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## ShoerFast (Jul 3, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> HAHA. Keep responding and I'll tell you how you are interpreting the pictures wrong!:hmm3grin2orange:




 Just trying to fill in! As the resadent idjutt has the week off!


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## Gologit (Jul 3, 2006)

ShoerFast said:


> Just trying to fill in! As the resadent idjutt has the week off!



ROTFLMAO!!!! Too bad its only a week.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 4, 2006)

What did idjutt (a.k.a. "attention whore") do this time?


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## ShoerFast (Jul 4, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> What did idjutt (a.k.a. "attention whore") do this time?



Same Ol'

But she took Thall with for a week,,,,, but now the she-sap is down to the fat lady getting ready to sing,,,, one more mup-mup and she is looking for new friends to influnace and impress!


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## Newfie (Jul 4, 2006)

What are you professional poseurs gettin' on about now?:greenchainsaw:


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 10, 2006)

*Milled a few sticks today*

Finally got to the 20' pine that's been sittin'.

Yielded 4 - 8/4 x 26" x 20' slabs and about a dozen 2x8's

This log was bumping the limits of the mill. We had a few tight squeezes but our planning worked (this time).

I wish I had a kiln. Waiting on the other slabs in the barn is getin' to me.
 

Pics of 1st cut


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 10, 2006)

2nd cut

It was too heavy for the dogs and rolling rams on the mill.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 10, 2006)

3rd cut & slabs


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 10, 2006)

more


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 10, 2006)

mas


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 10, 2006)

more

I didn't take a picture of the final load on the trailer but it was purdy.


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## carvinmark (Jul 10, 2006)

You sure have some nice equiptment and looks like nice lumber.How do you get your saw logs,do you drop them yourself?


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 10, 2006)

I drop some but most are construction salvage. They've been taken down by dozers and excavators. Some logs are split in places but I can't beat the price. Most contractors jump at the opportunity to have someone else haul off the bulk of what they consider debris. They usually even load it for free! Suckers!:biggrinbounce2: 

I need to go scrounging again. Couple more good days at the mill and I'll be sawed out.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 10, 2006)

BTW None of the equipment belongs to me except the CSM. The backhoe and bandmill belongs to a friend and the bobcat is my father's. Why buy when you have good friends and family? We're kinda on a "backscratching" system.


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## carvinmark (Jul 10, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> BTW None of the equipment belongs to me except the CSM. The backhoe and bandmill belongs to a friend and the bobcat is my father's. Why buy when you have good friends and family? We're kinda on a "backscratching" system.


It sure is nice to have access to that quality of equipment.I do the same for getting saw logs and I get nervous when I get low,I gotta scrounge soon also.


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## woodshop (Jul 10, 2006)

Good pics aggie... LOVE to see milling pics, yeah I second that, you have the good fortune to have access to all that equipment. You mentioned back scratching, just curious what are you doing for this good man with the mill? Does he get some of the lumber maybe? Yup, milling pics just put me in a good mood and make me wish a free weekend were right around the corner so I could get out there and get busy with my stash too. Speaking of which, apparently unlike you and carvinmark, I currently have more than I can handle. Over 3000 bd ft of wood laying down that I need to slice up before the beetles get to it. All were dropped within the last month. All were taken down to build except the pecan which was dying. The red oak and the pecan are OK for another couple weeks or more, but somebody gave me a 14 ft long huge elm with a 36 inch wide crotch section that I need to get pronto. Can't wait to open that one up.


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## smithie55 (Jul 10, 2006)

I agree love to see boards coming off the mill, Thanks.
What type of construction do you use the lumber for?
happy milling
And where did you get that great "Milling Time" sticker?


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 11, 2006)

woodshop said:


> Good pics aggie... LOVE to see milling pics, yeah I second that, you have the good fortune to have access to all that equipment. You mentioned back scratching, just curious what are you doing for this good man with the mill? Does he get some of the lumber maybe? Yup, milling pics just put me in a good mood and make me wish a free weekend were right around the corner so I could get out there and get busy with my stash too. Speaking of which, apparently unlike you and carvinmark, I currently have more than I can handle. Over 3000 bd ft of wood laying down that I need to slice up before the beetles get to it. All were dropped within the last month. All were taken down to build except the pecan which was dying. The red oak and the pecan are OK for another couple weeks or more, but somebody gave me a 14 ft long huge elm with a 36 inch wide crotch section that I need to get pronto. Can't wait to open that one up.



My father has worked with the man for years. He's a developer and my father is a builder so there's always something that can be worked out. Sometimes we pay for mill time but mostly it's project help and lumber bartering.

Honestly, I do have more on the ground than I can get to now (6 more oaks bigger than the one I posted last week). It's the manic in me that wants more.:hmm3grin2orange:


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 11, 2006)

smithie55 said:


> What type of construction do you use the lumber for?
> happy milling



These will probably go into a bookmatched table top or bar tops. Which ever sells first.



smithie55 said:


> And where did you get that great "Milling Time" sticker?



I put it together with Corel Draw (similar to photoshop).


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 21, 2006)

*Been busy*

Here a few more milling pics. These are pretty crappy. All I had was my camera phone on this trip.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 21, 2006)

few smaller water oak slabs

got some really nice ray fleck in a few


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 21, 2006)

building the stacks

the pine slabs in pic 3399, bottom right are 2 1/2" x 27" x 20'


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 21, 2006)

Finished- for now.

I got to add weight in places soon.


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## Adkpk (Jul 21, 2006)

I have an oak down on a job. Like it fell out of heaven. Funny thing, I had been telling the customer that this particular tree was the one to fell in their woods. It was a leaner and was the tallest. Blocking all the light. Strong wind blew it down. Micro burst. Buried the 36 inch bar on it today. Might be hollow, bummer. 
I'll see tommorow. I wasn't able to get the chunk I cut out of the trunk. Oh, ya Aggie you have some nice toys. Keep feeding us with the pics. Love it.


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## woodshop (Jul 21, 2006)

Aggie is that osage orange I see stickered to the left in the pic ending 3399? ...maybe Mulberry? ...or is it just the way the light is that it looks yellow?


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 22, 2006)

woodshop said:


> Aggie is that osage orange I see stickered to the left in the pic ending 3399? ...maybe Mulberry? ...or is it just the way the light is that it looks yellow?



Boy I wish it was. Nope, just pine.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 22, 2006)

Adrpk said:


> I have an oak down on a job. Like it fell out of heaven. Funny thing, I had been telling the customer that this particular tree was the one to fell in their woods. It was a leaner and was the tallest. Blocking all the light. Strong wind blew it down. Micro burst. Buried the 36 inch bar on it today. Might be hollow, bummer.
> I'll see tommorow. I wasn't able to get the chunk I cut out of the trunk. Oh, ya Aggie you have some nice toys. Keep feeding us with the pics. Love it.



Thanks.

What kind of oak is it? Oaks down here are all over the spectrum of physical properties. Beware of reaction wood since it was a leaner. If you look closely at the cell phone pics you can the ends of the loose board is raised about 1/2". As the cut went down the length of the cant, the board raised itself over an inch at the end before it was cut loose. If the pressure is in the opposite direction it could cause the saw to bind. At the very least your cut quality will suffer because the chain on the return side will gouge in. Driving wedges into the kerf every few feet will prevent this.

Have fun and post pics!


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## Adkpk (Jul 22, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Boy I wish it was. Nope, just pine.


Which one do wish it was? We have tons of mulberry around here. Is it good for something?


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## Adkpk (Jul 22, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Thanks.
> 
> What kind of oak is it? Oaks down here are all over the spectrum of physical properties. Beware of reaction wood since it was a leaner. If you look closely at the cell phone pics you can the ends of the loose board is raised about 1/2". As the cut went down the length of the cant, the board raised itself over an inch at the end before it was cut loose. If the pressure is in the opposite direction it could cause the saw to bind. At the very least your cut quality will suffer because the chain on the return side will gouge in. Driving wedges into the kerf every few feet will prevent this.
> 
> Have fun and post pics!


Not sure what kind it is. Red oak, yes but what red oak I haven't looked into it. I don't have any close ups of the leaves. I have seen the raising board action but thanks for opposite direction idea. I'll get back to it Monday, too messed up a day for that today. I'll post a new thread once I get to slabbing. 
I have to sneak it though. The customer dosen't want me playing chainsaw when the retaining wall sits unfinished.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 22, 2006)

Adrpk said:


> Which one do wish it was? We have tons of mulberry around here. Is it good for something?



Ether one. I've seen mulberry lumber and it looked nice. Never worked with though. Osage orange is nice too but hard to find anymore. Most people cut it down because the fruit is a nuisance.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 22, 2006)

Adrpk said:


> Not sure what kind it is. Red oak, yes but what red oak I haven't looked into it. I don't have any close ups of the leaves. I have seen the raising board action but thanks for opposite direction idea. I'll get back to it Monday, too messed up a day for that today. I'll post a new thread once I get to slabbing.
> I have to sneak it though. The customer dosen't want me playing chainsaw when the retaining sits unfinished.




Red oak from your parts is usually nice. I hardly mess with it here anymore because it checks & splits horribly.


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## Adkpk (Jul 22, 2006)

I see I forgot to post the pics.


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## woodshop (Jul 22, 2006)

Adrpk said:


> Which one do wish it was? We have tons of mulberry around here. Is it good for something?



Mulberry is nice wood to work in the woodshop, not too hard, but hard enough for small furniture, frames, things like that. It has a pleasant yellowish color, not as yellow as osage orange, more towards light tan but with a yellow tinge, and nice looking grain patterns. In some circles, good pieces are worth a nice chunk of change. At one point the Japanese were paying a lot for it.

Osage orange on the other hand, is pretty stuff, and I grab every little piece I can find. In this area, usually that means small logs full of voids and defects, and I have to work to get useful pieces out of them. It is hard, and you can sand/buff it very smooth to where you can almost get a hard durable glossy finish with just oil and a coat of wax. I use it making jigs where I need a small piece of hard tough wood as a fence or a stop.


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