# Husqvarna 346 XP or 455 Rancher, for a one saw owner, which is better?



## mikelleen (Nov 21, 2011)

I've been doing a lot of reading on these forums, and have been trying to do some research on other sites as well.

I'm buying my first "real" saw, having owned consumer grade saws in the past (Poulan).

I just put in a new wood fireplace and am planning on cutting 1-3 cords of various firewood per year. I have friends on property with trees of various types. I have a little 14" Poulan saw that got me thru until now, but I am ready to step up to a real saw.

After a lot of research I am trying to decide on either a Husqvarna 455 Rancher - 20" or an 346XP 20", The cost difference between the models is not an issue for me.

What is an issue, is the torque of the 455 vs the H.P. / speed of the 346. Assuming I am going to buy and keep just one saw, what would be the better choice?

I am leaning towards the 346, however I have seen some discussions that the 346 is with less torque might not be the perfect "one saw for all around everything" option, and that the 455 while slower, has better torque and is therefore a better "all around" saw.

Any help is appreciated.


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## tlandrum (Nov 21, 2011)

346xp all the way


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## Mill_wannabe (Nov 21, 2011)

Given the price difference is not an issue, get the 346xp. The 455 will do what you want, but the 346xp is the pro model and will make you smile whenever you run it.


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## Grizzrider08 (Nov 21, 2011)

I can't speak for the 346, but i ran a 455 for a while. Had good power, good torque, always started no problem. It was hefty for its power output not the best power to weight ratio. I now have a 372xp which weighs almost the same as the 455, but 15 more cc and 2 more hp and cranks way more revs lol. The XP pro saws are much better quality than the homeowner/landowner saws such as the 455. Not saying the 455 wont last, but pretty much its all plastic, including the front handle, and even the plastic crankcase?


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## SawTroll (Nov 21, 2011)

Just forget the over-heavy hunk of plastic (455), and get the much better quality 346xp!


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## Ductape (Nov 21, 2011)

The 455 Rancher more or less IS a consumer grade saw. Not that it's bad.... it's a decent saw, just not a pro saw. Out of those two, I'd definitely go with the 346. Your local dealer may not have one yet, but the new 555 is shaping up to be a very desireable saw. It has gotten good reviews here. Though not a true pro grade saw, the 555 does have magnesium cases, which make it easily rebuildable in the future. Check it out, along with the 346.


P.S. I own both the 455 and 346. Though I consider the 455 a good, reliable saw, I rarely use it now that I have the 346. The 346 is SO much more user friendly (light, great power).


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## redray46 (Nov 21, 2011)

*246 vs 455 Huskys*

I have run both, and own a 346,no comparison,346 all the way.Faster,better balanced and lighter weight,make it the right choice.
Ray


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## o8f150 (Nov 21, 2011)

that is a no brainer,,,346xp


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## tallguys (Nov 21, 2011)

Really? Everyone so far thinks that the 346XP is the way to go when the OP indicated that he wanted to run it with a 20" bar and chain? There is no arguing the 346 is a better saw than the Rancher but from what I've read here on AS is that it is not nowhere near ideal for continuous use with that size bar. I'd think something along the lines of a 359 or budget allowing 357XP would be more in order. 

For the money I'd say get a Dolmar 6400 and call it a big, bright and happy day. :msp_biggrin: No problems pulling a 20" all day long with the 64cc.


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## Anthony_Va. (Nov 21, 2011)

Call me crazy, but I would check out the Husky 365. It's a 70cc saw and probably doesnt weigh much more than a 455. That would make you a great one saw deal. You can run a 20" bar or even a 24" if ya wanna. My second choice would be the 555. Actually my first choice would be 555, folllowed by the 365. :msp_biggrin:


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## indiansprings (Nov 21, 2011)

Of the two saws listed, hands down the 346xp, a great little saw........but I think if you plan on running 20" bars, you would be better served with a new 555 or find a great deal on a 359 left on a shelf.
To get the performance most speak about on the 346 your going to need to put an unlimited coil in it, and mod the muffler. Haven't had a chance to run a 555, but the 359 has always been an under rated saw.


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## procarbine2k1 (Nov 21, 2011)

Anthony_Va. said:


> Call me crazy, but I would check out the Husky 365. It's a 70cc saw and probably doesnt weigh much more than a 455. That would make you a great one saw deal. You can run a 20" bar or even a 24" if ya wanna. My second choice would be the 555. Actually my first choice would be 555, folllowed by the 365. :msp_biggrin:



Well said. 455 isnt a bad saw, but the 346 would get my vote if the 365 isnt an option.


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## SawTroll (Nov 21, 2011)

indiansprings said:


> Of the two saws listed, hands down the 346xp, a great little saw........but I think if you plan on running 20" bars, you would be better served with a new 555 or find a great deal on a 359 left on a shelf.
> To get the performance most speak about on the 346 your going to need to put an unlimited coil in it, and mod the muffler. Haven't had a chance to run a 555, but the 359 has always been an under rated saw.





The unlimited coil isn't really needed unless the saw has more serious mods than just the muffler, but it makes the saw easier to tune right, if you don't have a tach.

Also, far from all the 346xp saws posted about even have a muffler mod, mine included - they still perform very well for a 50cc saw, and are a joy to use in the woods!


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## indiansprings (Nov 21, 2011)

No disagreement Sawtroll, they are an excellent saw. I agree with you 100% it is a far better choice than the 455. It seems like you do see alot of the guys on here do the unlimited coil swap, I never did it with mine and had no issues with tuning. I do think if you are going to run a 20" bar a large portion of the time a 555 may be more suited. When on the fence, always buy one size bigger than you think you need.
It's always easier to run a short bar on a larger saw than a longer bar on a smaller cc saw. If the op is going to be exceeding the 18-20" dia wood often and in hardwoods I'd step up to the next class of saw.


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## Joeypole (Nov 21, 2011)

Grab a 372XP with a 20 inch bar and never bog down in anything you cut for firewood use. That is my suggestion.


I own a 455 Rancher and a 272XP and since I've gotten the 272 I've made 3 cuts with the 455. The 272 is a touch heavier but twice the saw.


The 455 bogs down with a 20 inch bar a lot. Under powered and heavy in my opinion. It will cut almost anything you put it in, but it won't win any races.


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## CTYank (Nov 21, 2011)

Grizzrider08 said:


> I can't speak for the 346, but i ran a 455 for a while. Had good power, good torque, always started no problem. It was hefty for its power output not the best power to weight ratio. I now have a 372xp which weighs almost the same as the 455, but 15 more cc and 2 more hp and cranks way more revs lol. The XP pro saws are much better quality than the homeowner/landowner saws such as the 455. Not saying the 455 wont last, but pretty much its all plastic, including the front handle, and even the plastic crankcase?



I dare you to show me a plastic engine crankcase on a Husqvarna.

Maybe you're looking at OUTER cases, like the oil tank.


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## mikelleen (Nov 21, 2011)

OK based on the posts and consults here, the 455 is out.

However I would like to than you all for adding to my confusion by throwing in some more choices! 

So I THOUGHT I had my choices down to either the 455 or 346XP, now I am also considering the 555,372, etc... 

You guys ever hear the Jeff Foxworthy routine where he's talking about how guys shop for most things by the "get in the store and get out method, but just try to get a guy out of a gun and boat show!" :msp_biggrin: 

Well shopping for a new saw, is pretty much the same thing, so I'll start diggin in on these other saws mentioned. I haven't heard about the 555 or others mentioned.

Chances are I would not use the 20" bar often. More likely an 18" would be satisfactory, however I indicated the 20" because my local Husqvarna dealer has both saws set up with 20" bars. On asking about them, he stated he typically sells them that way.

To narrow the suggested choices down, I'm 52 so I do like the idea of a lighter easier to handle saw. I will probably be cutting stuff I'd need a 20" bar for about 10 percent of the time, but it will happen. 

Mostly pine, some Oak, Manzaneta, Poplar, and occasional fruit trees.

Just to throw more fuel onto the fire, I was alo considering the Dolmar PS 5105 and have been doing most of my dcision making based off this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/163983.htm

I was backing off the Dolmar because there are not as may Dolmar dealers in my area that I have found.
Thanks for the help


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## mikelleen (Nov 21, 2011)

Trying to reply but getting issue with approvals  I'm sure it's because I'm a new member to the community.

In case my reply did not get thru, I am trying it again, I have decided after reading the advice here, that I'm going with a pro saw, currently leaning towards the 346XP.

However, I now need to also consider the 555, the 372, as mentioned in the thread.

I'm not going to be needing 20" except for maybe 10% of the time. The reason for mentioning 20" was primarily because my local dealer has both the 455 and 346 set up with 20" bars.

I'm 52 so lightness counts, I'll be cussing mostly pine, poplar, some apple or other fruit trees, and some Oak.


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## Grizzrider08 (Nov 21, 2011)

CTYank said:


> I dare you to show me a plastic engine crankcase on a Husqvarna.
> 
> Maybe you're looking at OUTER cases, like the oil tank.



Read here. 

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/48167.htm


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## Grizzrider08 (Nov 21, 2011)

CTYank said:


> I dare you to show me a plastic engine crankcase on a Husqvarna.
> 
> Maybe you're looking at OUTER cases, like the oil tank.



Read below, the case on the 455 is a composite. 

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/48167.htm


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## Mastermind (Nov 21, 2011)

CTYank said:


> I dare you to show me a plastic engine crankcase on a Husqvarna.
> 
> Maybe you're looking at OUTER cases, like the oil tank.



Have you never seen a Husqvarna 350????

If the bottom half of the crankcase ain't plastic I'll kiss your ass. 

On the 346 running a 20" bar.......just because the OP wants to run a 20" bar doesn't mean it will be buried at all times. Does it?


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## SawTroll (Nov 21, 2011)

mikelleen said:


> Trying to reply but getting issue with approvals  I'm sure it's because I'm a new member to the community.



It most likely is.



mikelleen said:


> In case my reply did not get thru, I am trying it again, I have decided after reading the advice here, that I'm going with a pro saw, currently leaning towards the 346XP.
> 
> However, I now need to also consider the 555, the 372, as mentioned in the thread.
> 
> ...



You can easily cut 20"+ wood with a 16" bar, even 30", just cut from both sides.

The 372xp meant a lot of added weight though, if that is an issue.

I suggest you start with a 346xp, and you will eventually learn if you need a larger one as well. :msp_wink:


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## SawTroll (Nov 21, 2011)

CTYank said:


> I dare you to show me a plastic engine crankcase on a Husqvarna.
> 
> Maybe you're looking at OUTER cases, like the oil tank.



Where have you been?

Lots of cheeper Huskys have a plastic crankcase - the "shell" on a clamshell engine doesn't count as metal crankcase, nor does the metal block that the cylinder is attached to on the 350.


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## Brendann (Nov 22, 2011)

This member is selling an Cub Cadet/Efco for $250: http://www.arboristsite.com/classifieds.php?do=viewitem&itemid=1370
or you can get a new one: Husqvarna, Dolmar & Efco Chain Saws and Chain Saw Parts


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## Carl Anderson (Nov 22, 2011)

There's a lot of guys who run a 20" bar on the 346xp just for the extra reach, not to bury it in big wood. I'm not a pro, just a weekend warrior cutting firewood for my own use and I run a 18" bar on my 346 and love it (.325 narrow kerf). I personally think it's the perfect setup for me. Like Sawtroll said, you can cut plenty of bigger wood with a smaller bar if you need to. My dad cut some really big trees with his old little Poulan with 14" bar. Yeah, he had to run around some of them in circles with it but if you are only needing a 20" bar 10% of the time it's not worth putting up with the extra weight of a bigger saw. A 346xp with a 18" or 20" bar will do you just fine and as someone else said, it will put a big poop-eatin' grin on your face. 

I know Sawtroll prefers the 16" bar on his but I think there is not enough reach there, at least for me (it's personal preference). I'm not really that tall but at 6'2" I like to stoop and bend less with my 346 18" bar than I do with my dad's newer Poulan with a 16" bar. Also, just because your dealer has them set up with a 20" bar doesn't mean that's how you have to buy it. A good dealer should be glad to sell it with any size bar/chain you want at little or no extra cost.

Good luck and welcome to the forum, new guy rep sent!


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## brages (Nov 22, 2011)

On paper, having run neither, I'd be inclined to go with the 555; I think it's only a little bit more $$ than the 346xp, only a little heavier, and has a nice increase in power.


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## nmurph (Nov 22, 2011)

What I would like to know is what percentage of trees would be larger than 14"? A stock 346 will handle trees up to that size easily. Get bigger and you need to start looking at a bigger saw. If 80-90% fall under this size, I would go with the 346. A 346 can certainly handle larger trees as needed. If you are getting 50/50 larger than 14", I would definitely go with a larger saw. If most of your trees are bigger than about 14", the 555 would be very nice. 
Several other saws have been suggested, but all, other than the 555, are 1.5lbs+ heavier. That doesn't sound like a lot, in the course of a day, that weight is multiplied many times. 
You mentioned the 5100/5105. That is a terrific saw, but if dealer support is important, it may not be suitable for you.
Another saw to consider is the Stihl 261. It is a scosh stronger than the 346.

...but what you really want is a ported 346...plenty strong to pull a 20" bar...light...and a standard (woods) port won't hurt the durability of the saw. It will add about $250 to the cost: it's like cutting with a light saber.


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## mikelleen (Nov 22, 2011)

That's interesting, a ported 346XP could be fun!

At this time based on this thread I'm thinking a 346XP with an 18" bar. 

However I do not know anything about the 555, so maybe someone could point me to a good review / comparison of that?

Also, I am considering getting the Dolmar PS5105, my dealer here states getting parts is not an issue, I just called him and he convinced me to at least come over and take a look.

Where is that saw in comparison to the 346XP and 555? The thread I mentioned earlier did not go into too much detail about the Dolmar, just that it was a comparable saw to the 346XP. 

I'll keep search and reading the chainsaw forum here as time permits, with regards to the other saws mentioned, but any help is appreciated, THANKS!


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## nmurph (Nov 22, 2011)

Quick summation of 346 vs 555.

lighter vs heavier.

weaker vs stronger.

great limber with good felling/bucking in wood up to about 14" vs ok for limbing but able to pull a 20" bar with good authority.

346 ported...pulls a 20" like a child pulling chihauhau.


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## rburg (Nov 22, 2011)

From your description of the wood you cut, the 346 will handle what you cut very well. I am a few years older than you and can tell you that the weight of the 346 works well for me. I rarely pull out a larger saw until I get in bigger wood than you describe. The 5105 and the 261 are similar in power and weight to the 346. To read about the 555 you can use the advanced search feature and type in 555 or just type in husky 555 in google or some things similar and you can find info and videos. Good luck with your decision.


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## Urbicide (Nov 22, 2011)

*346XP*

I have been very happy with the 18" NK bar & use Bailey's Woodsman Pro (Carlton) 20NK chain. :rockn:


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## SawTroll (Nov 22, 2011)

Anthony_Va. said:


> Call me crazy, but I would check out the Husky 365. It's a 70cc saw and probably doesnt weigh much more than a 455. That would make you a great one saw deal. You can run a 20" bar or even a 24" if ya wanna. My second choice would be the 555. Actually my first choice would be 555, folllowed by the 365. :msp_biggrin:



Thanks for the "invite" - yes, you are crazy! 


....and the current 71cc version of the 365 is a lot heavier than even the 455!

The 555 sounds like a much better choise in this case, and why not the 562xp?


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## TK (Nov 22, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> The 555 sounds like a much better choise in this case, and why not the 562xp?




Because the mythical unicorn is more likely to be seen than a 562xp. Go with the 555.


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## mikelleen (Nov 22, 2011)

Carl Anderson said:


> I run a 18" bar on my 346 and love it (.325 narrow kerf).



What is a "narrow kerf" ?

I figure if I am going to order the saw with the bar and chain I want I should find out. Thanks!


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## SawTroll (Nov 22, 2011)

TK said:


> Because the mythical unicorn is more likely to be seen than a 562xp. Go with the 555.



Well, I have a 560xpg, and that one did come through official Husky supply channels - not some "monky-business" or shortcuts. I know of several in Sweden.

Hopefully you will get the 562xp back when the paper work is tidied up.....:msp_smile:


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## nmurph (Nov 22, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> Well, I have a 560xpg, and that one did come through official Husky supply channels - not some "monky-business" or shortcuts. I know of several in Sweden.
> 
> Hopefully you will get the 562xp back when the paper work is tidied up.....:msp_smile:



I don't want a 562. I have a 262 that is close enough for me. I would be interested in a 560, however.


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## SawTroll (Nov 22, 2011)

mikelleen said:


> What is a "narrow kerf" ?
> 
> I figure if I am going to order the saw with the bar and chain I want I should find out. Thanks!



.325NK is standard on the 346xp, and most likely will be on the saw, unless you can order it with a regular .325 set-up. Speak to the dealer about it, as I don't like the NK chain on that saw. Oregon LP/LPX works much better imo, and Husky sell that as well! :msp_wink:


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## Anthony_Va. (Nov 22, 2011)

SO, whats the reasoning behind no Stihl choices? No dealer around, just don't like em? 

The 361 would be the perfect firewood saw for anyone IMO. New ones can be found but are getting scarce. Also, the 362 is a good firewood saw too. I like it better than the 361 myself.

Just saying, if theres no reason why you don't want to try Stihl besides, "I just dont like them", then your kidding yourself. Anyone not leaving himself open to all options these days are kidding themselves too.


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## The Count (Nov 22, 2011)

As one makes his way through the jungle with the machete, eventually he must stop to eat; then he must pull out a smaller blade, possibly a fine Swiss Army Knife in order to cut the meat or whatever;
No man should have only one saw; if money can be found for this, I think you should go for the 346XP with max 16" b/c and maybe the 372/576XP with the 20+ b/c
This way your pasture will be evergreen.

Cheers


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## mikelleen (Nov 22, 2011)

Regarding Stihl saws, nothing against them at all, I was also considering a 261, in fact the dealer I went to sells both Stihl and Husky's. 

I specifically like two features on the 346XP and even 455 Rancher that Stihls in the same price range do not have, the decompression switch for starting capability, and the way the airflow is routed on the Husqvarna, I forget what they call that, but basically the air flows moves chips away from the air filter, so supposedly less filter clogging. Yes I am aware the filter should be cleaned every cutting session regardless.

I am still possibly considering the Stihl 261, but again, am leaning towards the 346XP at this time.

Obviously no one saw is going to do everything I need, but I only cut 1-3 cords a year for my own use. So having multiple saws does not necessarily make sense. If I was cutting more, I'd certainly get two saws. Actually I still have my 14" consume grade Poulan, and it still runs OK, so I guess I'll have two saws. I'm just looking into getting my first "Pro" or "Heavy Duty" level saw.


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## The Count (Nov 22, 2011)

if you get the 346 XP you won`t regret it for sure; and something tells me you`ll never use the Poulan again. Don`t get rid of it though; it`ll make a good loaner.


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## brages (Nov 22, 2011)

MS261 does have decomp, if it matters... (IMHO, not a valuable feature in this size range)


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## sawfun9 (Nov 22, 2011)

The 346 has a decomp as well. If the $100 or less difference in price doesn't bother you then get the 346. If your cutting firewood then the 555 might be best. If your limbing and cutting smaller trees then the 346 will be more nimble.


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## SawTroll (Nov 22, 2011)

mikelleen said:


> Regarding Stihl saws, nothing against them at all, I was also considering a 261, in fact the dealer I went to sells both Stihl and Husky's.
> 
> I specifically like two features on the 346XP and even 455 Rancher that Stihls in the same price range do not have, the decompression switch for starting capability, and the way the airflow is routed on the Husqvarna, I forget what they call that, but basically the air flows moves chips away from the air filter, so supposedly less filter clogging. Yes I am aware the filter should be cleaned every cutting session regardless.
> 
> ...



Just forget the heavy and clumcy handling MS261. Trigger responce also is a bad point, I have been told, and that is pretty important in the woods as vell as the handling.

Just continue to lean towards the 346xp, until you own one! :msp_biggrin:


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## SawTroll (Nov 22, 2011)

sawfun9 said:


> The 346 has a decomp as well. If the $100 or less difference in price doesn't bother you then get the 346. If your cutting firewood then the 555 might be best. If your limbing and cutting smaller trees then the 346 will be more nimble.



I can see no use for a decomp on a 50cc saw, and never use them on mine. :msp_wink:


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## rburg (Nov 22, 2011)

My 346 came with a narrow kerf bar with 95vpx chain. Since I have had it I have run RS stihl chain on it and Woodsman pro 20 nk chain and woodsman pro 20 rc chain on it all on the narrow kerf bar. I have yet to run the lpx on it yet but I have some of that to try when I get some more wood to cut. All of them do a good job if you keep them sharp. The 346 definitely has a good filtration system, but from all I have read the 261 has a very good filtration system also.


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## Anthony_Va. (Nov 22, 2011)

Yea, I can't tell you which one to pick between the ms261 and 346xp. I can tell you that either of them are great saws. They are pretty much equal all around. I like the 261 better because it seems to have more grunt and the air filter setup is second to none. 

I just think the ms361 would make anyone an all around firewood saw and you would need nothing else to go with it. They are great on anything up to 25" timber. A 20" bar and 3/8th chain fits them perfectly. 

That said, I still like the 362 better than the 361. If I were you, I'd go handle the 346, ms261, 555 and ms362 and see which one feels right to you.


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## SawTroll (Nov 22, 2011)

Anthony_Va. said:


> ....
> 
> That said, I still like the 362 better than the 361. If I were you, I'd go handle the 346, ms261, 555 and ms362 and see which one feels right to you.



Well, the answer to that is pretty obvious to me, and it doesn't include any Stihl saws....:biggrin:

The MS361 is a great saw though, and ported about like a Husky xp - but mostly NLA.


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## johnfawn2000 (Nov 22, 2011)

*346 or 353*



mikelleen said:


> i've been doing a lot of reading on these forums, and have been trying to do some research on other sites as well.
> 
> I'm buying my first "real" saw, having owned consumer grade saws in the past (poulan).
> 
> ...



i have (2) 346xp's i love them,this is my 90% go to saw unless i am cutting over 16in. I have another thought. Buy the 353 which i have save some money.then send it to gary hunt(1cut) have him do his magic and you will love to cut wood he is something else makes the saw a pleasure an exciting 2 run.talk with gary he is down to earth person.i am confident you will enjoy cutting wood and get a lot more wood cut,thanks john


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## Carl Anderson (Nov 22, 2011)

rburg said:


> My 346 came with a narrow kerf bar with 95vpx chain. Since I have had it I have run RS stihl chain on it and Woodsman pro 20 nk chain and woodsman pro 20 rc chain on it all on the narrow kerf bar. I have yet to run the lpx on it yet but I have some of that to try when I get some more wood to cut. All of them do a good job if you keep them sharp. The 346 definitely has a good filtration system, but from all I have read the 261 has a very good filtration system also.



My 346 came with the .058 bar/chain (which I guess is standard gauge for .325 vs .050 which is narrow kerf). I had them switch it out to nk to match the brand new extra chains I had from my old saw. 

I was told that I could always use the .058 chain on the narrow kerf bar, you just can't go the other way around or your cut might be too slim for the bar to slide into and through smoothly. So if that's true I will probably give it a try just to see how it I like it. Right now I'm still running the OEM Husky chain on it (95vpx I guess?). I should probably throw one of the nk Woodland Pro chains I have on it now to see how that cuts.

Someone asked what narrow kerf is, not sure if you needed a detailed explanation but here it is, hopefully it's correct. As I understand it, the kerf is the thickness of the metal of the bar on either side of the chain groove. So if you have a narrow kerf bar you have a narrower bar overall but the groove down the middle of the bar that the chain rides in is the same width as a standard kerf bar. Therefore if you have a standard kerf bar you cannot run a narrow kerf chain as the chain won't cut a wide enough path for the bar to properly go through but if you have a narrow kerf bar you can run either a narrow or standard kerf chain, in theory anyway, I don't know how well it works in practice (haven't tried it yet). If anyone knows of any drawbacks to running a .058 chain on a .050 bar please speak up before I go buy one. 

If anything I said in this post is incorrect, please feel free to correct me. Anyone, Sawtroll, Murph, Brad, anyone, Bueller, Bueller....


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## hamish (Nov 22, 2011)

Carl Anderson said:


> My 346 came with the .058 bar/chain (which I guess is standard gauge for .325 vs .050 which is narrow kerf). I had them switch it out to nk to match the brand new extra chains I had from my old saw.
> 
> I was told that I could always use the .058 chain on the narrow kerf bar, you just can't go the other way around or your cut might be too slim for the bar to slide into and through smoothly. So if that's true I will probably give it a try just to see how it I like it. Right now I'm still running the OEM Husky chain on it (95vpx I guess?). I should probably throw one of the nk Woodland Pro chains I have on it now to see how that cuts.
> 
> ...



Will correct you, yes Bueller you are wrong. the gauge of chains (0.50/0.58/0.63) in the thickness off the driver on the chain and respectively the groove in the bar, bigger cant be run in small, small can be run in bigger but your cut will be as crooked as hell (works in a pinch when needed).

NK aka narrow kerf chain is not as wide (built on a narrower chasis versus regular chain of the same gauge 0.50) on paper it works, but in reality in the real world it means very little.

The side to side play in the chain when cutting makes the difference between an nk and regular chain, damn near to the c-hair measurement scale, the cut kerf between the two is negligible.


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## SawTroll (Nov 22, 2011)

The real issue with NK chain is that there are no chisel chain available of that kind, and that is a biggie to me.

You can run regular .325 chisel chain like the 20LP/LPX or 23RSC on the bars though, usually with no issue. If you use semi-chisel, .325 NK chain is fine though, but the selection is limited to the 95vp/vpx/H30 and the WP (Carlton) 20nk.


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## Officer's Match (Nov 22, 2011)

I use my Jonsered 2153 (which is a red 346XP) as part of a two saw plan, combined with a MS441 M-Tronic. If I were doing a one-50cc-saw-plan, I'd take the MS261 for it's better torque (if we're talking stock vs stock). My Jred is ported, MM'd and unlimited-coiled, and will trounce a stock 261, but that's not the point. My point is I pick up the 441 when I can't push as hard as I want on the 2153.

BTW, I think the 261 also pre-filters like Husky's do, and its filter setup is better than a 2153/346. The 261 should also get better mileage being as its a strato.


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## SawTroll (Nov 22, 2011)

Officer's Match said:


> I use my Jonsered 2153 (which is a red 346XP) as part of a two saw plan, combined with a MS441 M-Tronic. If I were doing a one-50cc-saw-plan, I'd take the MS261 for it's better torque (if we're talking stock vs stock). My Jred is ported, MM'd and unlimited-coiled, and will trounce a stock 261, but that's not the point. My point is I pick up the 441 when I can't push as hard as I want on the 2153.
> 
> BTW, I think the 261 also pre-filters like Husky's do, and its filter setup is better than a 2153/346. The 261 should also get better mileage being as its a strato.



I suspect Stihl overdid the air filter thingy on the 261, and just added to the bulk and weight of the saw, really. I never find much dust on my 346xp etc filters, so it really was nothing to improve upon. I agree on the milage though, but in case that is an issue, the "strato" 550xp isn't far away, as the user manual and IPL already is out. As it looks, it will be a tad lighter and a tad stonger than the 346xp - and of course much lighter and slimmer than the MS261.......:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


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## Officer's Match (Nov 23, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> I suspect Stihl overdid the air filter thingy on the 261, and just added to the bulk and weight of the saw, really. I never find much dust on my 346xp etc filters, so it really was nothing to improve upon. I agree on the milage though, but in case that is an issue, the "strato" 550xp isn't far away, as the user manual and IPL already is out. As it looks, it will be a tad lighter and a tad stonger than the 346xp - and of course much lighter and slimmer than the MS261.......:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:



My filter has done a great job of blocking dust, but it does clog up on heavy cutting days for me. So far my MS441 is superior in this area.


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## mikelleen (Nov 23, 2011)

Anthony_Va. said:


> That said, I still like the 362 better than the 361. If I were you, I'd go handle the 346, ms261, 555 and ms362 and see which one feels right to you.



Yeah, that's a good idea, the problem now is that frankly I do not know the finer points of these saw, and now we are talking about chain types as well. So getting a lot of great feedback, however now I'm a little confused.

So with all of these great suggestions, I'm going to make lighness and handling one of my chief measurements for my decision. I was cutting a neighbors tree last week, and frankly the ole' back was feeling it later.

If a 555 or 261 or 361 is only marginally heavier I might consider that with the extra power. However as was pointed out earlier, a lighter saw could be ported at a later date if more power was needed, or again, maybe just end up with 2 "pro" saws if I find myself needing it.

So maybe I am now evloving my question to what is the best saw for lightness to power ratio, still handling let's say an 18" bar?


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## rburg (Nov 23, 2011)

The 346 is definitely the lightest of the ones mentioned. I don't think there would be much difference in power between it and the 261.


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## Officer's Match (Nov 23, 2011)

rburg said:


> The 346 is definitely the lightest of the ones mentioned. I don't think there would be much difference in power between it and the 261.



Nor do I in quantitative measures, but they do feel different in how they deliver their power. I prefer (obviously) the 346/2153, but I would strongly consider the 261 if doing a one-saw-plan at 50cc, but a 361 would be better yet.


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## Carl Anderson (Nov 23, 2011)

hamish said:


> Will correct you, yes Bueller you are wrong. the gauge of chains (0.50/0.58/0.63) in the thickness off the driver on the chain and respectively the groove in the bar, bigger cant be run in small, small can be run in bigger but your cut will be as crooked as hell (works in a pinch when needed).
> 
> NK aka narrow kerf chain is not as wide (built on a narrower chasis versus regular chain of the same gauge 0.50) on paper it works, but in reality in the real world it means very little.
> 
> The side to side play in the chain when cutting makes the difference between an nk and regular chain, damn near to the c-hair measurement scale, the cut kerf between the two is negligible.



I stand corrected, thank you, learned something again here. Now, I have to remember where I got that bad info about kerf.


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## mikey517 (Nov 23, 2011)

mikelleen said:


> I've been doing a lot of reading on these forums, and have been trying to do some research on other sites as well.
> 
> I'm buying my first "real" saw, having owned consumer grade saws in the past (Poulan).
> 
> ...



Last February i went to buy a 450 Rancher at my Husky dealer, and ended up getting a 353. I'm glad I did. 
It's basically built on the same frame as a 346, with a slight difference in the P&C configuration (right SawTroll). I've used it with a 20" bar, and it's OK for my usage, but it really cooks with an 18" and the Woodland Pro 20NK chain.

And it's cheaper than the 346XP.

I'm very pleased with the 353.


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## indiansprings (Nov 23, 2011)

Since I actually own and run both a 346 and a 261 in a commercial setting, I can honestly say that four of my hired hands and I prefer the 261 hands down over the 346, don't get what I am saying wrong, the 346xpne is an excellent saw, you will be hard pressed to find anyone better. I am sick and tired of the individuals on here who continually bash a saw just over 9oz, and have yet to have ever operate one, to me it is nothing but a reflection on that individuals character. People who are asking for guidance spending their hard earned bucks deserve more than information read from a spec sheet. My saws will see over30-40 hours of operation a week in commercial conditions. 
In our opinion ONLY, there is a reason the 261 weighs 9 ozs more.
The 346xpne has a die hard following on here, for good reason, it's benefits are it's light weight/ power to weight ratio. In stock form it is not the light saber so many unrealistically describe. It does have great throttle response, it is all the saw most do it your self wood cutters would ever need for cutting no more than 18" -20" We do not care for the outboard clutch, the tiny little chain adjustment screw, or having to carry a different sqrench for it's bar nuts. It's powerband is all on the top, keep it wound wide open or torque suffers.

The 261 in our opinion only has a more robust build, just feels more solid, heavier by 9 OZ, we feel like it has a much more useable powerband, the saw really wakes up after 10-12 tanks, it's air filter setup is the standard by which others can be judged, it is the best I've ever seen in over 30 years of sawing. We prefer the inboard clutch, not as much crap and gunk gets built up in under the cover, easier to change out chain when you do it as frequent as we do. The captive bar nuts are a nice feature, standard sized along with the chain adjustment screw. Stock saw to stock saw I'll pay more for a 261 any day of the week, taking nothing away from the 346, as it is a good saw, it really boils down what you are used to using. The 261 build quality reminds me of the legends, the 044's, the 038's, the little 028's, the 066's, of which I've had or ran all of them. The 261 is of that build quality, no shortcuts to cut the weight down nine ozs just so they could beat a husky spec. To each their own, ready for the flaming, but my crew just feels like the 261 is better suited to a commercial setting. It is a fact that the Stihl Pro saws hold their value better than any other saw on the market. There will be one less 346xp here by late Saturday afternoon and another brand new shiny 261, it has proven it's shelf to be a perfect companion saw to the 70cc saws. I like XP's they as good as saws made, I've got a unique situation with a dealer relationship, if I were buying a new saw, especially a pro saw, I'd buy from the brand dealer that would give me the best support, regardless of brand. But to get on here and give half assed/ biased/ information based on nothing but prejudice is doing the members wrong, a saw is a major lifetime investment for some, the least we can do is give accurate information. Truth is the 346/555/261 will do anything you need, just depends on your personal preferences. Want to support made in the USA and American workers go buy the 261, proudly made in Virginia Beach. VA by a company that chose to invest in America, decades ago.

Hell, if there were still 299.00 EFCO/John Deere/Cub Cadet CS 56/156 new on the market, for a do-it your self guy, I take it hands down over either the 346 or 261 for that purpose, they will out cut a stock 346 by a mile and are built every bit as good as far as build quality. The air filter set up is their on shortfall.


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## Officer's Match (Nov 23, 2011)

IS, you had me 'til the last paragraph. Maybe it's the porting and MM, but my 2153 (346) will flat out spank a JD CS62 (had one for several years, until I tried to run it and the Jred in the same wood), and so I have a very hard time believing a CS56 could hang w' a 346/2153.


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## mikelleen (Nov 23, 2011)

OK, so I'm out of town for the week and wont be able to get to my dealer. It is cool that he carries both Stihl and Husqvarna.

I am going to go try the heft and feel of the saws mentioned, currently the 346XP, 555, 262, 361 and the Dolamr PS5105.

You guys all have great advice, and I'm now trying to educate myself on chain types, etc. As a strict intermediate saw user, again personal use 1-3 cords a year, mixed wood types, I am willing to admit my lack of experience.

So it seems I have rekindled the very thread that I originally started reading on this forum that got me interested in these particular saws: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/163983.htm

One problem of course is just picking up a saw to feel its heft and weight does not really tell you much until you actually start cutting.

One things that indiansprings posted have entering into my decision equation;
indiansprings speaking of the 346XP: "It's powerband is all on the top, keep it wound wide open or torque suffers."

This is interesting in that keeping the revs up in the powerband is fine, no problem for me, but I want some torque when I am not in the power band, or I simple screw up when starting my cut. 

It's kind of like the dirt bike 2 stroke vs 4 stroke debate. Having owned a 2 stroke RM250, I loved it, great awesome and quick power response, but you had to be in the band all the time. Now that I own a 4 stroke KTM 530, I apreciate the easier and more relaxed riding style I get by having some torque to pull me out of trouble if I miss a downshift.

So when I get back from vacation I'm going to my dealer and see about checking out all of the above saws. Again I don't put much stock in just picking up a saw, it's really down to cutting and there is no way to make that judgment until you buy. Unfortunately I don't know anyone out here (SLC UT) I can go to actually run test these options.


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## indiansprings (Nov 23, 2011)

Officer's Match, I was comparing stock to stock. The CS 56 is rated at 4.1 hp, dead stock to dead stock it would out cut the 346. The CS 56 when MM'd imho was very close to a dead stock MS 361.
Both the 346 and CS56 were set up with 18" .325 chain. If a minty 044 didn't get traded in to my dealer, the CS 56 would be staying with me. I've always felt it was the most saw I've ever bought for the money new, 299.99 delivered to my front door. It was a sawing little machine. It was also one of, if not the best starting saw I've ever had. The nylon mesh filter was it's only weakness. It was one hell of a saw for the money, with pro saw construction, for 300.00 you just couldn't get much more bang for the buck imho.


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## mdavlee (Nov 23, 2011)

Handle the 555. I think it would be the best all around saw for you and it's got a decent edge in power over the 50cc class.


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## tallguys (Nov 23, 2011)

indiansprings said:


> Officer's Match, I was comparing stock to stock. The CS 56 is rated at 4.1 hp, dead stock to dead stock it would out cut the 346.



I agree 100%. I am getting a bit tired of reading how great this saw is over that saw once MM'd and/or woods ported. That would be like saying you take two cars of equal power but then add 10 grand in engine mods to the first and this would be indicative why its a better model. Nonsense. 

For example, you take a 346XP at $769 Cdn and spend $250-$300 having it MM'd and ported (don't forget almost $100 for shipping it back and forth) and you're at $1169, not taking into account tax. For that sum you can buy a MS460. Guess which saw smokes the other? I'm sure that I'm not the only one wanting to know about a saw as it comes tuned from the dealership. If I wanted to spend $300-$400 on mods I'd most likely be looking at a more expensive saw in the first place. Anyway, thats my 2 cents.


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## indiansprings (Nov 23, 2011)

Mdavlee, I really respect your opinion, as you've give good unbiased reviews on the saw based on actual use, that means a hell of a lot compared to others. I believe it was you who mentioned in another post the 555 was everything the 346xp should be. Although I haven't had the chance to look at one in person, much less use one, my input would be pure speculation. It compares well on paper to the CS56. I think Husky will have a real winner with the 555, I can only imagine set up with an 18" bar it would be all the saw a guy sawing for himself and even selling a few cord on the side would ever need.
Hell, after reading some of the BS on here, I can't imagine how people ever but faith in what's recommended. It's like how many times lately you see ryobi's, redmaxx's and other wonder saws of the moment recommended, I'd be willing to bet most of those recommending them sure as hell don't run them everyday or depend on them as their primary firewood saw.


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## Brian_NC (Nov 23, 2011)

I personally like the powerband of the 261 much better than the 346. They are both well built, good runners but the 261 seems to make it's power over a much broader range. The throttle response is good on both, a 346 might be 1/64th of a second faster revving up, but I can honestly say I've never had to stand and wait for any saw to wind up when I am limbing, and I can't imagine anyone swinging one fast enough that it would make a difference. Based on the reviews the 555 has gotten on here, if I were the OP I would sure give it a good hard look.


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## mdavlee (Nov 23, 2011)

The 555 really surprised me and my friend who ran it. He never thought a saw that small could have that good of power. He's got a plastic craftsman and a jonsered 2083 and he ran the 555 more than any saw that was there the last time we were cutting in his wood pile. I think it will do 90% of my cutting. A hot 70cc saw is nice also and was the smallest saw I was running until I got this one.


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## The Count (Nov 24, 2011)

Compare Husqvarna Chainsaws and Petrol Chain Saws


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## Officer's Match (Nov 24, 2011)

indiansprings said:


> Officer's Match, I was comparing stock to stock. The CS 56 is rated at 4.1 hp, dead stock to dead stock it would out cut the 346. The CS 56 when MM'd imho was very close to a dead stock MS 361.
> Both the 346 and CS56 were set up with 18" .325 chain. If a minty 044 didn't get traded in to my dealer, the CS 56 would be staying with me. I've always felt it was the most saw I've ever bought for the money new, 299.99 delivered to my front door. It was a sawing little machine. It was also one of, if not the best starting saw I've ever had. The nylon mesh filter was it's only weakness. It was one hell of a saw for the money, with pro saw construction, for 300.00 you just couldn't get much more bang for the buck imho.





tallguys said:


> I agree 100%. I am getting a bit tired of reading how great this saw is over that saw once MM'd and/or woods ported. That would be like saying you take two cars of equal power but then add 10 grand in engine mods to the first and this would be indicative why its a better model. Nonsense.
> 
> For example, you take a 346XP at $769 Cdn and spend $250-$300 having it MM'd and ported (don't forget almost $100 for shipping it back and forth) and you're at $1169, not taking into account tax. For that sum you can buy a MS460. Guess which saw smokes the other? I'm sure that I'm not the only one wanting to know about a saw as it comes tuned from the dealership. If I wanted to spend $300-$400 on mods I'd most likely be looking at a more expensive saw in the first place. Anyway, thats my 2 cents.



Factory HP numbers are of very little reliability to me, they just don't seem to play out in the real world. I got my CS62 for about the same money, and agree it's a lot of saw-per-$. However, I do not believe, HP rating notwithstanding, that it cuts as strong as a 346XP - stock vs stock. Maybe Brad will get around to porting the JD and we'll see what's left in it, but stock it simply lacks the rpm to hang with a 346/2153.


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## mikelleen (Dec 1, 2011)

Ended up buy a new Stihl 361 , see my thread on how I bought, then broke it here:
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/186713.htm#post3302337

View attachment 209313


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## johnfawn2000 (Dec 9, 2011)

mikelleen said:


> ok, so i'm out of town for the week and wont be able to get to my dealer. It is cool that he carries both stihl and husqvarna.
> 
> I am going to go try the heft and feel of the saws mentioned, currently the 346xp, 555, 262, 361 and the dolamr ps5105.
> 
> ...


mikellen,what ever u go with,take (2) saws to the woods.this is to cut yourself out of a pinch, been there done that.i have a (2) 254 xp in pristine condition,they stay @the garage and off i go with the 395 and the 346works for me.


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## cheeves (Dec 10, 2011)

I had a 44 Husqvarna for years and heated about three houses with it. Loved that little saw. There's a member on here that has 4 of them and a 346. Said he prefers his 44. I also have a 156 Efco and have a yard full of wood to attest to it's ability. Even though I thought the world of that saw I would take my 156 any day over it. I also logged professionally when I was younger and have been running saws for over 45 years. 

When I'm looking into a saw I listen to the guys that run them day in and day out all day long. There's a reason that Scott at Chainsawr.com sells Efco's. Nothing against the 346 Husky. I think they're a great saw. If I had one my other saws would get much less use I'm sure.


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## JimR (Feb 5, 2012)

mikelleen said:


> I've been doing a lot of reading on these forums, and have been trying to do some research on other sites as well.
> 
> I'm buying my first "real" saw, having owned consumer grade saws in the past (Poulan).
> 
> ...



I used to own 2 55 Ranchers. I now have 2 346xp saws. I never looked back at getting rid of the 55's. It was a no-brainer for me.


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