# Homelite Super XL Automatic



## BrentS (Jan 4, 2010)

I have a beautiful Homelite Super XL Automatic sitting at home, I bought it several years ago off Ebay from a guy who does restorations. I am trying to find out some info about the saw - how many cc's, what year it was manufactured, etc. The saw is metallic blue and white in color, the serial number is 3E0130399, UT# 10499B. It was sold to me immediately after restoration, I have not run it yet. I have a couple of other chainsaws (Stihl 029 Super and MS 460) but bought this saw because I liked the way it looks -something about these old machines is really neat, and they're built like a rock. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me in regards to this, any info would be appreciated.

Brent


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## Cantdog (Jan 4, 2010)

*SXL Automatic*

I have 4 of these saws and they are tougher than nails. The SXL was 58cc of loud, vibrating chain saw!! Not a lot of fun to use all the time but great as a once in a while saw or back up or saw for camp firewood. Live forever!! The blue and white ones are fairly early probably mid to late sixties. Good saws.


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## volks-man (Jan 4, 2010)

Model: SUPER XL AUTO 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MANUFACTURED BY: HOMELITE CORPORATION 
PORT CHESTER, NEW YORK, U.S.A. 
SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER: 10045C 
YEAR INTRODUCED: 
YEAR DISCONTINUED: 
ENGINE DISPLACEMENT: 3.55 cu. in. (58.2 cc) 
NUMBER OF CYLINDERS: 1 
CYLINDER BORE: 1.8125 in. (46 mm) 
PISTON STROKE: 1.375 in. (34.9 mm) 
CYLINDER TYPE: Aluminum with chrome plated bore 
INTAKE METHOD: Reed valves 
MANUFACTURER ADVERTISED H.P.: 3.33 SAE @ 7,500 RPM 
WEIGHT : 13 lbs. 14 oz. (6.3 kg) powerhead only 
OPERATOR CONFIGURATION: One Man operation 
HANDLEBAR SYSTEM: Rigid 
CHAIN BRAKE: none 
CLUTCH: Centrifugal 
DRIVE TYPE: Direct 
CONSTRUCTION: Die cast magnesium 
MAGNETO TYPE: Breaker point or electronic 
CARBURETOR: Tillotson HS-4D, HS-142A 
Walbro SDC
Zama 
MAJOR REPAIR KIT: RK-23HS for HS-4D 
MINOR REPAIR KIT: DG-5HS/T for HS-4D 
AIR FILTER SYSTEM: Cellulose fiber element 
STARTER TYPE: Homelite automatic rewind 
OIL PUMP: Automatic with manual override 
OPERATING RPM: 6,000, 10,000 to 10,500 no load 
IGNITION TIMING: 30 degrees before TDC. Mount stator as far clockwise as it will go on breaker point systems. 
BREAKER POINT SETTING: 0.015 in. (0.38 mm) 
FLYWHEEL/COIL AIR GAP: fixed 
SPARK PLUG TYPE: Champion CJ6 
SPARK PLUG GAP: 0.025 in. (0.63 mm) 
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS: Caged needle roller 
FUEL TANK CAPACITY: 24.2 oz. (716 ml) 
FUEL OIL RATIO: 32:1 with Homelite oil 
RECOMMENDED FUEL OCTANE: Regular 
MIX OIL SPECIFICATION: Homelite chain saw mix oil 
CHAIN PITCH: 3/8 in. 
CHAIN TYPE: Homelite38 Raker III and Oregon 72 
BAR MOUNT PATTERN: 14 link 
SHORTEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 16 in. (40 cm) 
LONGEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 24 in. (61 cm) 
COLOUR SCHEME: Homelite Red enamel


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## ridgerunner97 (Jan 4, 2010)

Ive got a red one, definately a very well loved saw I'd say by everyone, they sold a #### ton of them, run good, no antivibe or safety features on mine  bare bones old school iron. I use mine A LOT! got it for free off my neighbor sat in his barn for 10yrs, cleaned the air filter, wiped the chassis down sloshed new fuel through the tanks to clean them fueled it up and voila runs like she did new. I love the sound of em.


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## oldsaw (Jan 4, 2010)

A good example of what a good saw used to be. They are just "right" on so many different levels. I thoroughly enjoy using mine.


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## sly13 (Jan 4, 2010)

*Love em*

I agree with the others they are a loud, strong, vibrate you, type of saw. Not everyones choice but I really like mine.


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## BrentS (Jan 4, 2010)

Thanks for the info and feedback guys. I'm an idiot when it comes to computers, but I'll see if I can figure out how to post a couple pics of the saw. 

Does anyone know the approximate horsepower of the XL Auto?


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## ridgerunner97 (Jan 4, 2010)

Acres' site says 3.3hp, probably around that, id guesstimate from running that and my 288xp back to back, more than likely what Acres' site is saying is very close.


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## WadePatton (Jan 4, 2010)

well, i picked up one ultra cheap the the other day. it looks good, except for the clutch cover--which is in two pieces. hope to find another.

put fuel in it once. it all ran out. damminent. so it's on the back burner until i find another one for parts and such. leaky fuel, busted cover, spark? compression feels good, bar and chain look great. love that filter the whole carb compartment approach to air cleaning.

would like to hear it run...oh wait there's utube.


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## volks-man (Jan 4, 2010)

BrentS said:


> Thanks for the info and feedback guys. I'm an idiot when it comes to computers, but I'll see if I can figure out how to post a couple pics of the saw.
> 
> Does anyone know the approximate horsepower of the XL Auto?



see post #3


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## ridgerunner97 (Jan 4, 2010)

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This is with it how I got it, tuned the carb back a bit after this was shot, revvin too high for my liking.


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## Farm_Boy_61 (Feb 16, 2010)

*Super Xl AO*

I just fixed my dads super xl, it is a red edition, he has had the saw for almost 30 years. It had 130 psi of comp, so i felt the need to repair it. Put a new coil on it and it cuts like a beast, love the saw and love old homelites. Shows what a real mans saw looks like.


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## uriedog (Sep 21, 2011)

I have an XL automatic, runs great. I just finished a top end rebuild, port and polish and am in the middle of building an expansion chamber for it. I also have an xL 12 which has never had anything done, not even a carb rebuild. It was my dads I still remember when he got it back in the mid 1970's. That thing still runs prefect.


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## Nick530 (Sep 21, 2011)

Gotta love these saws my grandpa has 5 red xl's and one blue and white one that's awaiting a electronic ignition swap. He always says the ol blue is probably the best running saw he has.... When it's running haha damn old ignition


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## homelitejim (Sep 21, 2011)

I like Homelite Super XL's as much as I like old threads, good to see the classics reborn. Here is a video of one I put together today from a few different saws including a blue and white XL-12.
[video=youtube;GPxq1EDpTBA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPxq1EDpTBA[/video]


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## kmcinms (Sep 22, 2011)

*like the super XL Auto*

I just repaired one of these saws for an elder at my church. It was his father's saw and he was delighted to get it back in running condition. These saws are built like tanks and run like one too. One pull and it's "game on"! :msp_thumbup:


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## ChuckinSac (Jan 23, 2012)

*I have the blue and white Super XL-12*

I could have got the orange one (which everyone here is calling the red) but the guy I got it from had the blue one running so I got the blue/white with 24" bar and good chain for $55 here in Sacramento. Wanted a Stihl but when I saw the prices for a new Stihl I figured after paying that much plus 8% tax I would have a heart attack. I got mine because it has a 24" bar which might be a little too much bar but the local power company has decided they need to remove 2 big trees from a lot I own. I stood back and looked at these 2 trees and guestimated they must be over 100' tall which gave me a minor heart attack. It was then I realized my friend's 42cc Poulan which I fixed into a zippy little saw would be dead before all the cutting was done. I told the forester if they cut one branch off a tree to cut the entire tree down. One thing I can't tolerate is a half cut tree or a toothpick tree. He actually agreed with me so they are going to cut the trees into 8' to 16' sections which is great because now I will not have to look for climbing gear and learn to climb at age 56. How you people can do this is flat out amazing to me. I have been chainsawing off and on for over 30 years but this will be my biggest project. Usually when I take out big trees I give them away. Since real estate is kind of slow right now to say the least, I am now going into the Pine firewood business which I can tell you after cutting a cord from stuff left over from the last power company pruning job is dang hard work. Of course I knew this before from previous cutting but it seems to me wet wood is now heavier than it used to be. I also bought a 20" 50cc McCulloch Titan for $20 which I am starting to hate with a passion but I am big buddies with the guy that has the lawn mower repair shop across the street from where I live so I am able to aggravate him with it. But that's another story and will be eventually be posting on my McCulloch Titan experience. I own a smaller McCulloch that still runs but the chain cover decided to split into 2 pieces and it is too dinky anyhow.
So the big question is: What's better the Blue or what looks to me to be the Orange one?


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## watsonr (Jan 23, 2012)

The super XL automatic in blue/white and red are the same saw. Red was made a little later that's all. If you had an XL-12 then it would be manual only oiler and 54cc. The supers had auto oiling and 58cc and some came without points depending on the manufacturing date.

Good running saws, loud as hell and built like a tank!


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## ChuckinSac (Jan 23, 2012)

*Good to know*

I figured red might be newer. Would have preferred newer but in my case the blue one was the one the guy started up. If I had known this I would have made him start up the red one. Should have made him really work for that $55 ! Maybe the red would have had problems and he would have had to pull till the cord was on fire-( I read this on a post and thought was quite funny) !!
I would like to say I can't wait till the trees are down but the truth is I am happy to wait forever. Going to check Tuesday........
You people are saw experts


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## Eccentric (Jan 23, 2012)

*Red doesn't have to mean newer when you're talking XL-12/SXL/XLA/XL-15/SXL-12 saws...*










This is my early production XL-15. Older than many blue/white XL-12/XLA/Super XL-12 saws, including three of mine. Homelite played with the colors quite a bit over the decades. A Super XL-12 is 58cc with manual oiler only. The XL-A was sold as both 55cc and 58cc. They were built with auto oilers only (with a screw in plug in place of the manual oiler pump), but dealers could install the manual oiler pump before selling the saw. My 1965 dated IPL states this. A Super XL Automatic (or SXL-AO) will be 58cc with both manual and auto oilers. Some XL-Automatic saws were red/white/green. Many variations over the years. The XL-15 seems to be an early XL-12 (55cc and manual oiler) sold through hardware stores. Acres lists it as being a gear drive, but that's incorrect. There was an add on gear drive unit (replaced the clutch cover, like on a C-series saw), and an "XL Automatic Gear Drive" saw that was sold with this unit. That's in my 1965 *XL Automatic Gear Drive, XL Automatic Direct Drive, Super XL* IPL. My XL-15 has a replacement clutch cover, so I wonder if it was sold with the add on gear drive unit (and it was later replaced with the DD cover). Who knows. I don't have the saw in my posession yet (a friend has it), so I haven't had a chance to look at the clutch parts to see if there's anything leftover from a gear drive setup....


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## RandyMac (Jan 23, 2012)

What is different on the driveside of that XL15?


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## Eccentric (Jan 23, 2012)

RandyMac said:


> What is different on the driveside of that XL15?



Clutch cover looks to be a newer replacement. In the pic at least.......it looks like there's less fade and scratches when compared to the rest of the saw. According to my IPL, the gear drives have a six shoe clutch, while the DD's are 3 shoe. A lot of things get switched around in 40+ years though.....



Regardless, I am STOKED to be getting it. This will be the earliest production saw of that series in my collection. Looks like it will clean up well too, and will be a good match to the XL-12 I bought from Bob on ebay back in 2007 (before I even knew he was an AS member).


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## joe25DA (Jan 23, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> Cool saw Aaron. Homelite sure did like to keep things interesting in the naming. I have a later model (electronic) SXLAO in red and an XL12 in carolina blue and white. PS send me your info again as I deleted it by accident:bang:


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## Eccentric (Jan 23, 2012)

joe25DA said:


> Cool saw Aaron. Homelite sure did like to keep things interesting in the naming. I have a later model (electronic) SXLAO in red and an XL12 in carolina blue and white. PS send me your info again as I deleted it by accident:bang:



Thanks Joe. Here's my XL-12 (with a P/C from a later SXL-AO swapped in). This the saw I bought from Bob. Was a birthday gift to me from my lovely wife. Probably about the same age as yours. My cherry avatar pic Homelite C-5 is also in the pics. I'll PM you my info again in a sec.


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## joe25DA (Jan 23, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> Thanks Joe. Here's my XL-12 (with a P/C from a later SXL-AO swapped in). This the saw I bought from Bob. Was a birthday gift to me from my lovely wife. Probably about the same age as yours. My cherry avatar pic Homelite C-5 is also in the pics. I'll PM you my info again in a sec.



Nice looks just like mine. My XL12 looked great, but the guts were destroyed from water. So I got a donor saw from Melvyn (remember him?) then I polished the p/c, new rings, seals and gaskets, points, carb kit....a lot. Runs great.
How I got it




when It was done


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## Eccentric (Jan 23, 2012)

Nicely done Joe! Yours is just a bit newer than mine, because it has the newer fuel line setup. Mine has the felt wick in the tank with the metal tube sticking out. Yours has a regular line and clunk filter, and a grommet where the line passes through the tank.

I have a badly corroded Super XL-12 (58cc, manual oiler only). Damn thing had almost perfect paint when some fellow put it up. Freshly sharpened chain and a tuneup too. I believe the owner passed away a few years ago, as a buddy of mine got the saw from a house that was being cleaned/cleared up for resale for and estate. He knew I liked old Homelites, and gave it to me.

Sad thing is, some damn dog pissed on it (reeks). I think my buddy's dog did the deed. He had the saw for a few weeks before I could pick it up. He had it on the back porch. The urine caused terrible, unstopable white death all over the saw. It's progressing at an alarming rate, no matter what I do. It wasn't badly corroded when I first picked it up. It's been getting worse by the day ever since, despite my washing, scrubbing, and oiling the saw. I think the urine got into the 'pores' of the magnesium. Paint's lifting up and everything....

Chris T calls it my "Piss-XL". It runs PERFECT. Didn't have to do anything but flush the tank out to get it up and running. P/C look like new. Compression is great. I'm going to pull the P/C and put them in a dead, but nice looking red/black XL-12 I got a while back. May also swap the pyramid reed setup and carb box/rear handle from a dead SXL I have onto that XL-12 too. I'll pull the manual oiler parts, rim drive clutch drum, Tillotson carb, fasteners, and other useable stuff from the "Piss-XL" and ditch the rest. What a pitty. It has a good 16" Windsor Speed Tip bar and loop of almost new, sharp chisel chain. Those will be derusted (damn dog) and used on another saw too.


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## ChuckinSac (Jan 23, 2012)

*Looks my XL12 is now red*

All I can find on it is Super XL Auto Ser#04526214 Don't ask me why I thought it was blue. Is it the 58cc with automatic oiler?
To last so long I assume it has a cast iron cylinder? I hope these photos are viewable


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## joe25DA (Jan 23, 2012)

that there is a Super XLAO. 58cc, auto oiler. No cast iron cylinder, these use the more modern, chrome bore.


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## ChuckinSac (Jan 23, 2012)

*Great*

Thanks Joe. I like it more every week. I dislike my Titan more every day but I will fix it


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## Eccentric (Jan 23, 2012)

Yep. That's a 58cc SXL-AO with both manual and automatic oilers. Chromed bore. Twice the saw that the titan is. Are you possitive you have that serial number correct? Doesn't seem right to me. Clean it off and look carefully. Post the UT # too.


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## ChuckinSac (Jan 24, 2012)

*SXL Numbers*

Unless there are numbers under a cover the only numbers I can find are on the ID tag: Super XL Auto Division of Textron Inc Port Chester NY Serial # 04526214


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## Work Saw Collector (Jan 24, 2012)

Here is my old Super XLAO.




Homelite Super XL by supercabs78, on Flickr




homelite superXL by supercabs78, on Flickr




002 by supercabs78, on Flickr

I set it on the Stihl calendar couple years ago just to be funny.


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## Eccentric (Jan 24, 2012)

ChuckinSac said:


> Unless there are numbers under a cover the only numbers I can find are on the ID tag: Super XL Auto Division of Textron Inc Port Chester NY Serial # 04526214



Cool saw WSC. One of the auto-only Super XL Automatics (with the manual oiler blockoff). I have one as well. Same paint/badging layout as yours. Has a good P/C, but is missing a few parts and needs a good fuel system rehab. Just haven't gotten that far down the projects list yet. It waits patiently in the box it arrived in. I hope yours spooged some bar oil on that creamsicle callendar...:jester:


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## Eccentric (Jan 24, 2012)

ChuckinSac said:


> Unless there are numbers under a cover the only numbers I can find are on the ID tag: Super XL Auto Division of Textron Inc Port Chester NY Serial # 04526214



On that black lable, there should be UT xxxxx and Serial Number xxxxxxxxx. Are you possitive that there isn't another digit in the serial #?


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## Duke Thieroff (Jan 24, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> ....



Hmmmmmm

That's kinda orange in color.....


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## Eccentric (Jan 24, 2012)

Duke Thieroff said:


> Hmmmmmm
> 
> That's kinda orange in color.....



Not the one Duke. Remember that I said *overer 70cc*. This XL-15 is red, 55cc, and was a gift to me back in June. Keep on guessing...:jester:


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## joe25DA (Jan 24, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> Not the one Duke. Remember that I said *overer 70cc*. This XL-15 is red, 55cc, and was a gift to me back in June. Keep on guessing...:jester:



:msp_thumbup:


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## Yoopermike (Jan 24, 2012)

Lots of nice homey saw eye candy! I have a few xl-12's and some sxlao's laying around amongst my collection. but for the money I think my homey e-z is the most favorite to play with.


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## ChuckinSac (Jan 25, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> On that black lable, there should be UT xxxxx and Serial Number xxxxxxxxx. Are you possitive that there isn't another digit in the serial #?
> 
> Can't get a readable photo of the name plate with my old camera but all it has is Super XL Auto, NY address, patent numbers, consult owners manual and the serial number starts with a 0. Will get my friend's camera and eventually get a decent photo


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## Eccentric (Jan 25, 2012)

ChuckinSac said:


> Eccentric said:
> 
> 
> > On that black lable, there should be UT xxxxx and Serial Number xxxxxxxxx. Are you possitive that there isn't another digit in the serial #?
> ...



I was able to see what you're talking about in the one photo. That's an odd sticker. Usually, Homelite stickers like the one above your muffler (black, with two silver fields) have the UT# in one field, and the serial number in the other. I can make out "Super XL" in the upper field of your sticker. Also, your serial number isn't put together like most we'd see from that era of saw. I'm not able to use the 'usual' technique to figure out when your saw was built. I _think_ it was built in 1980....


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## ChuckinSac (Jan 25, 2012)

Thanks, The newer the better for what I need. These are the best photos I could get. I know it's been discussed before but should I use a 16:1 or 32:1 with this later made saw? I use regular 2 stroke oil.


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## MEATSAW (Jan 25, 2012)

ChuckinSac said:


> Thanks, The newer the better for what I need. These are the best photos I could get. I know it's been discussed before but should I use a 16:1 or 32:1 with this later made saw? I use regular 2 stroke oil.



It's not so much the saw that determines what fuel/oil ratio to use as it is what oil you are using. If you are using a modern, fully synthetic oil (like stihl ultra) you can run up to 50:1. The older ratios like 16:1 were because they were using poor quality oils back then to make their mix.


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## ChuckinSac (Jan 25, 2012)

I don't use synthetic. I have several bottles of Sabre 2-cycle oil and Castrol 2T 2-stroke oil. 32:1 ?


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## benz (Jan 28, 2012)

Hi guys, first time poster and I am already looking for some help. Recently I found this chainsaw on sale:
































I saw a bunch of these red and blue/white saws but never a green one? So, was this saw repainted or they were actually making them green from the factory? 

Thanks for your time,

benz


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## 5speed (Feb 2, 2012)

*Homelite Super XL AO w/manual pump*

I have a super XL UT 10045-e. Need to know when it was built (year/era if possible) Serial number is HR0391094.

I have had serious issues finding a bar for this saw. Needing a 20" bar. Have no problem with chains as D70 is the easiest chain on the market to find, however I found a decent Carlton Chain that worked like a dream on my fathers 240 but his is an old homelite bar, cannot for the life of me find the bar numbers stamped on bar, it is over 30 yrs old lol. However we cannot find anyone around my area that has any knowledge about a usable bar for this saw unless it is Oregon. 

Any help would be wonderful. Also looking to buy any other old Homelite saws. 

Would a Super 240 be much different than our older 240 that we have? (cc, speed, power)


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## Yoopermike (Feb 2, 2012)

benz said:


> Hi guys, first time poster and I am already looking for some help. Recently I found this chainsaw on sale:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



If you look up by the fuel cap , I see what looks to be blue paint under that green! although I DO have a homelite with a green handle, I do not believe that green was a standard paint for their saws!


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 2, 2012)

ChuckinSac said:


> I could have got the orange one (which everyone here is calling the red) but the guy I got it from had the blue one running so I got the blue/white with 24" bar and good chain for $55 here in Sacramento. Wanted a Stihl but when I saw the prices for a new Stihl I figured after paying that much plus 8% tax I would have a heart attack. I got mine because it has a 24" bar which might be a little too much bar but the local power company has decided they need to remove 2 big trees from a lot I own. I stood back and looked at these 2 trees and guestimated they must be over 100' tall which gave me a minor heart attack. It was then I realized my friend's 42cc Poulan which I fixed into a zippy little saw would be dead before all the cutting was done. I told the forester if they cut one branch off a tree to cut the entire tree down. One thing I can't tolerate is a half cut tree or a toothpick tree. He actually agreed with me so they are going to cut the trees into 8' to 16' sections which is great because now I will not have to look for climbing gear and learn to climb at age 56. How you people can do this is flat out amazing to me. I have been chainsawing off and on for over 30 years but this will be my biggest project. Usually when I take out big trees I give them away. Since real estate is kind of slow right now to say the least, I am now going into the Pine firewood business which I can tell you after cutting a cord from stuff left over from the last power company pruning job is dang hard work. Of course I knew this before from previous cutting but it seems to me wet wood is now heavier than it used to be. I also bought a 20" 50cc McCulloch Titan for $20 which I am starting to hate with a passion but I am big buddies with the guy that has the lawn mower repair shop across the street from where I live so I am able to aggravate him with it. But that's another story and will be eventually be posting on my McCulloch Titan experience. I own a smaller McCulloch that still runs but the chain cover decided to split into 2 pieces and it is too dinky anyhow.
> So the big question is: What's better the Blue or what looks to me to be the Orange one?



There is an older blue version and there's the "Old Blue" version which is a limited run later version, I think. I have both and also a red Super XLAO, but it's not a "Big Red" version, I wish it was, I think they're a rarer saw. They all seem to run about the same, the XL12 probably not as powerful as the Super XL but doesn't miss it by much.


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## Eccentric (Feb 3, 2012)

5speed said:


> I have a super XL UT 10045-e. Need to know when it was built (year/era if possible) Serial number is HR0391094.
> 
> I have had serious issues finding a bar for this saw. Needing a 20" bar. Have no problem with chains as D70 is the easiest chain on the market to find, however I found a decent Carlton Chain that worked like a dream on my fathers 240 but his is an old homelite bar, cannot for the life of me find the bar numbers stamped on bar, it is over 30 yrs old lol. However we cannot find anyone around my area that has any knowledge about a usable bar for this saw unless it is Oregon.
> Sw
> ...



Your SXL-AO was built on the 39th day of 1996 according to the Homelite SN decoding info. That is odd, as I believe SXL-AO production ended in 1995. That is a LATE SXL-AO in any case.

These saws take the Oregon D096/D196, Carlton 20/21, Windsor UXL/TXL, and GB HN bars, which are still in production. The 240 bar will not work. It is of the Oregon A061 mount, as used on the little XL2/Super2 Homelites. I can't immagine there is much difference between a 240 and a Super 240.


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## Vballvoodoo (Feb 15, 2012)

Very informative thread here! I came across this forum by searching for info on the blue homelite xl super auto. The clutch is shot, and having trouble locating another. Thought somebody here might know of a shop that may have access or some stock from parted out saws. Its the 3" diameter clutch base with springs and shoes. Anybody know of a place to go? I got some hits from eBay, been waiting a few days for an answer back.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 15, 2012)

Vballvoodoo said:


> Very informative thread here! I came across this forum by searching for info on the blue homelite xl super auto. The clutch is shot, and having trouble locating another. Thought somebody here might know of a shop that may have access or some stock from parted out saws. Its the 3" diameter clutch base with springs and shoes. Anybody know of a place to go? I got some hits from eBay, been waiting a few days for an answer back.



I would think that an older small engine shop might come up with one. Ebay also is a good place to watch.


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## 71dart (Feb 16, 2012)

*no spark*

I was given two old super xl autos and tore them both down and have assembled one with the best parts from each. The problem is that I can't get a spark. I swapped on/off toggle switches then swapped the ignition coils (they are blue prestolite non- points type ignitions) also tried another spark plug but nothing. The flywheel key is fine, the gap seems fine.... any ideas?


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## Duane(Pa) (Feb 16, 2012)

They were probably given away because the wouldn't start. They probably won't start because the coils are shot?? Just put a blue coil in my SEZ, but it would run then die after warming up to operating temp. Kick A$$ saw when they run! DW


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## tbow388 (Feb 16, 2012)

*Super Xl*

MY SON AND I HAVE A SUPER XL WITH A STACK MUFFLER ON IT. IT RUNS GREAT, CUTS GOOD AND IS SUPER LOUD.

SORry for yelling, that saw is loud.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 16, 2012)

71dart said:


> I was given two old super xl autos and tore them both down and have assembled one with the best parts from each. The problem is that I can't get a spark. I swapped on/off toggle switches then swapped the ignition coils (they are blue prestolite non- points type ignitions) also tried another spark plug but nothing. The flywheel key is fine, the gap seems fine.... any ideas?



Are these late model Super XLs or earlier models? And are you sure these are non points models? I assumed you took the plug out of the saw and laid it against the saw and pulled the rope to see if it had spark. If you couldn't see spark and it's truly a solid state ignition you'll have to change the module. Be sure the on/off switch is disconnected to eliminate that part. There should be tons of those modules around. Surely some on ebay.

If you can find a Prestolite blue module you can change it over even if it isn't for a Homelite. Put the blue coil from the new one on the ground frame of the old module. We had a thread on this a few weeks back.


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## 71dart (Feb 16, 2012)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Are these late model Super XLs or earlier models? And are you sure these are non points models? I assumed you took the plug out of the saw and laid it against the saw and pulled the rope to see if it had spark. If you couldn't see spark and it's truly a solid state ignition you'll have to change the module. Be sure the on/off switch is disconnected to eliminate that part. There should be tons of those modules around. Surely some on ebay.
> 
> If you can find a Prestolite blue module you can change it over even if it isn't for a Homelite. Put the blue coil from the new one on the ground frame of the old module. We had a thread on this a few weeks back.



I think these are later model super xls only because they are non point types. Yes , I held the spark plug against the cylinder fins and cranked and had no spark. It's just puzzling that both coils are bad. It looked like these saws had been put out to pasture years ago for problems not related to the coils. (busted starter cord on one and scored piston on the other) But maybe it's a common problem for these coils. I do have other good saws to use, I'm just thoroughly enjoying tinkering with these. Thanks


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 16, 2012)

71dart said:


> I think these are later model super xls only because they are non point types. Yes , I held the spark plug against the cylinder fins and cranked and had no spark. It's just puzzling that both coils are bad. It looked like these saws had been put out to pasture years ago for problems not related to the coils. (busted starter cord on one and scored piston on the other) But maybe it's a common problem for these coils. I do have other good saws to use, I'm just thoroughly enjoying tinkering with these. Thanks



I don't think Homelite had a big problem with modules, I've had several Super XLs and only had one module that had failed. The local small engine shop puts Super 2 modules in them, he says you have to grind the ends a bit to make them fit the flywheel. I'm not sure about this type of repair, I usually try to find the right module, not that hard to find.


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## Eccentric (Feb 17, 2012)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I don't think Homelite had a big problem with modules, I've had several Super XLs and only had one module that had failed. The local small engine shop puts Super 2 modules in them, he says you have to grind the ends a bit to make them fit the flywheel. I'm not sure about this type of repair, I usually try to find the right module, not that hard to find.



I've seen three failed SXL and two failed S E-Z blue coils. Also one Pioneer Farmsaw with the same failed coil (which we fixed with one from an SXL parts saw).


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 17, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> I've seen three failed SXL and two failed S E-Z blue coils. Also one Pioneer Farmsaw with the same failed coil (which we fixed with one from an SXL parts saw).



I've probably not been around as many of them as you have. I've only had about 7 or 8 of them in my garage. The only ones I've worked on were ones that I owned. I still have three, I think..


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## Eccentric (Feb 17, 2012)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I've probably not been around as many of them as you have. I've only had about 7 or 8 of them in my garage. The only ones I've worked on were ones that I owned. I still have three, I think..



I love that saw series, but the blue prestolite coils are unfortunately a weak link. They seem to die without warning. Right now I have a S E-Z and an SXL-AO with dead blue coils. Sent a friend here one of my 'spare' blue coils from an SXL-AO a while ago. He put it in his Pioneer Farmsaw. He tells me that everything, including the laminations and the coil markings were identical. Works fine on his saw now.


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## watsonr (Feb 17, 2012)

Vballvoodoo said:


> Very informative thread here! I came across this forum by searching for info on the blue homelite xl super auto. The clutch is shot, and having trouble locating another. Thought somebody here might know of a shop that may have access or some stock from parted out saws. Its the 3" diameter clutch base with springs and shoes. Anybody know of a place to go? I got some hits from eBay, been waiting a few days for an answer back.



Where in Virginia are you? I know I have a few laying around, but not at home now and won't be for some time. Ebay is probably your best bet or try Joyce, see goes by chainsaw lady and may have one for you. Chainsawr is also a good source to try.


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## 71dart (Feb 17, 2012)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I don't think Homelite had a big problem with modules, I've had several Super XLs and only had one module that had failed. The local small engine shop puts Super 2 modules in them, he says you have to grind the ends a bit to make them fit the flywheel. I'm not sure about this type of repair, I usually try to find the right module, not that hard to find.



thanks for the response. I searched ebay and chainsawr for the ignition module with no luck. I did see, however, that a member in the AS classified has alot of slx-type parts for sale. He/she says to 'PM me your e-mail'. Sorry for the silly question but what does that mean? Computers aren't my strong point......


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## Eccentric (Feb 17, 2012)

71dart said:


> thanks for the response. I searched ebay and chainsawr for the ignition module with no luck. I did see, however, that a member in the AS classified has alot of slx-type parts for sale. He/she says to 'PM me your e-mail'. Sorry for the silly question but what does that mean? Computers aren't my strong point......



Send him a Private Message with your email address. The blue solid state SXL coils are available new from the aftermarket (there are some on feebay and elsewhere). They go for around $60 though. Give BPlust a shout. I'll bet he can help you.


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## Hick66 (Feb 17, 2012)

*Coil Baking*

I have a Super XL Automatic that I bought for twenty bucks because it had no spark. It has the blue coil. I wrapped the coil in aluminum foil, to keep the fumes down, set the oven at 300 degrees, and put the coil in the oven. When the oven had warmed to 300 degrees I baked it for ten additional minutes and then shut the oven off and let it cool down. 

Reinstalled the coil and it had spark and has worked without a problem. I have cut 5 or 6 pick up loads of wood with it. 

It is worth a shot and costs nothing to do. 

Aparently at 300 degrees the varnish in the coil softens and somehow resets itself.


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## Eccentric (Feb 17, 2012)

Hick66 said:


> I have a Super XL Automatic that I bought for twenty bucks because it had no spark. It has the blue coil. I wrapped the coil in aluminum foil, to keep the fumes down, set the oven at 300 degrees, and put the coil in the oven. When the oven had warmed to 300 degrees I baked it for ten additional minutes and then shut the oven off and let it cool down.
> 
> Reinstalled the coil and it had spark and has worked without a problem. I have cut 5 or 6 pick up loads of wood with it.
> 
> ...



Interesting. I'll give it a shot. I have an old toaster oven that I use for non-food shop stuff like that.


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## 71dart (Feb 17, 2012)

Hick66 said:


> I have a Super XL Automatic that I bought for twenty bucks because it had no spark. It has the blue coil. I wrapped the coil in aluminum foil, to keep the fumes down, set the oven at 300 degrees, and put the coil in the oven. When the oven had warmed to 300 degrees I baked it for ten additional minutes and then shut the oven off and let it cool down.
> 
> Reinstalled the coil and it had spark and has worked without a problem. I have cut 5 or 6 pick up loads of wood with it.
> 
> ...



That is one of the crazier things I've heard in awhile......but I like it! I'll give it a try and see what happens.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 17, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> I love that saw series, but the blue prestolite coils are unfortunately a weak link. They seem to die without warning. Right now I have a S E-Z and an SXL-AO with dead blue coils. Sent a friend here one of my 'spare' blue coils from an SXL-AO a while ago. He put it in his Pioneer Farmsaw. He tells me that everything, including the laminations and the coil markings were identical. Works fine on his saw now.



I have a few old modules around and probably will be experimenting a little more with exchanging coils and laminations, I already know a few exchanges work but am just starting. No need to scrap a good saw because you can't find a module for it..


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## Hick66 (Feb 18, 2012)

*Baking a coil*

I didnt think it would work either. I was online chasing down a new coil when I came across the idea to heat the coil up to repair it. I was surprised when I saw spark. Put the saw back togethor and now it is one of my favorite saws to cut with. Not sure how long it will last or if it can be done more then once. Try it and let us know how it worked.


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## 71dart (Feb 18, 2012)

Hick66 said:


> I didnt think it would work either. I was online chasing down a new coil when I came across the idea to heat the coil up to repair it. I was surprised when I saw spark. Put the saw back togethor and now it is one of my favorite saws to cut with. Not sure how long it will last or if it can be done more then once. Try it and let us know how it worked.



On my coil, the spark plug wire is permanently attached. I'm concerned that the wire insulation might melt. Is this how yours was? I can wrap it in the tin foil with the coil and like you said its free so no big loss either way.


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## Hick66 (Feb 18, 2012)

Yep wire was attached did not seem to efect the wire or the insulation at all


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 18, 2012)

Hick66 said:


> I didnt think it would work either. I was online chasing down a new coil when I came across the idea to heat the coil up to repair it. I was surprised when I saw spark. Put the saw back togethor and now it is one of my favorite saws to cut with. Not sure how long it will last or if it can be done more then once. Try it and let us know how it worked.



Are you talking about a coil or a module?


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## Hick66 (Feb 18, 2012)

The blue prestolite coil


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 18, 2012)

Hick66 said:


> The blue prestolite coil



I'll have to look again, the last blue one I took out of a Homelite was a module. Maybe the points type coil is in blue also?

If a person didn't know part numbers it's hard to tell a coil from a module if you saw one at a flea market or something.


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## 71dart (Feb 18, 2012)

Hick66 said:


> I didnt think it would work either. I was online chasing down a new coil when I came across the idea to heat the coil up to repair it. I was surprised when I saw spark. Put the saw back togethor and now it is one of my favorite saws to cut with. Not sure how long it will last or if it can be done more then once. Try it and let us know how it worked.



I wrapped it in tin foil and baked it in a toaster over for about 15 minutes then hooked it back up, pulled the cord and saw a fat blue spark! Great tip there Hick66


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## Eccentric (Feb 18, 2012)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I'll have to look again, the last blue one I took out of a Homelite was a module. Maybe the points type coil is in blue also?
> 
> If a person didn't know part numbers it's hard to tell a coil from a module if you saw one at a flea market or something.



As far as the Super E-Z and XL-12/SXL-AO saws are concerned, the blue coils are all the Prestolites with the integral solid state ignition module. The points application coils are all black. Neither of these two saws ever had a multi piece electronic ignition system (sepperate coil and module). There were other Homelites with multi piece electronic ignition systems. I can't speak for them, as I haven't messed with their ignitions. The 750 on my bench has a multi piece system, but thankfully has a good strong spark.




71dart said:


> I wrapped it in tin foil and baked it in a toaster over for about 15 minutes then hooked it back up, pulled the cord and saw a fat blue spark! Great tip there Hick66



Cool! I've got a couple to try.


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## spike60 (Feb 18, 2012)

Now this coil baking is very interesting. First I've heard of it.

Is it best to marinate the coil first?? Sorry, couldn't resist guys. 

But seriously I'm going to try this with a Jonsered 49SP coil right now and see what happens. I'll report back later.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 18, 2012)

71dart said:


> I wrapped it in tin foil and baked it in a toaster over for about 15 minutes then hooked it back up, pulled the cord and saw a fat blue spark! Great tip there Hick66



What would it hurt?..the coil is already dead, couldn't hurt it any worse. I wonder if the wife is using the oven tonight...


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## spike60 (Feb 18, 2012)

No go on the 49SP coil. I'm going to give it another shot tomorrow @ 350 and see what happens.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 18, 2012)

spike60 said:


> No go on the 49SP coil. I'm going to give it another shot tomorrow @ 350 and see what happens.



Most coils are a continuous string of wire so heating it up might just pull the wire back together where it's broken. Probably a temporary repair at best.


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## eiklj (Feb 18, 2012)

71dart said:


> That is one of the crazier things I've heard in awhile......but I like it! I'll give it a try and see what happens.



You'll need to add lots of butter and salt, they're kinda chewy...


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## drumbum (Feb 19, 2012)

I'm kinda impatient.....I think I'll try the microwave:hmm3grin2orange:


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## Rudedog (Feb 19, 2012)

Hick66 said:


> I have a Super XL Automatic that I bought for twenty bucks because it had no spark. It has the blue coil. I wrapped the coil in aluminum foil, to keep the fumes down, set the oven at 300 degrees, and put the coil in the oven. When the oven had warmed to 300 degrees I baked it for ten additional minutes and then shut the oven off and let it cool down.
> 
> Reinstalled the coil and it had spark and has worked without a problem. I have cut 5 or 6 pick up loads of wood with it.
> 
> ...



Man ..... they don't teach that in small engine class. Sweet idea! I just pick this up. Has a bad carb I believe. Looked pretty sweet, so I was suckered in to buying it. Anybody know the build date from the serial number?



















I love these saws and still use them to cut when I'm having fun. I have to admit that they really wear out the part of my hand that I lost feeling in from cutting the tendons and they really crush the fuel/mix can.


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## Eccentric (Feb 19, 2012)

I have one just like that Randy, except mine doesn't have the manual oiler pump bits. From what I gathered, those parts (on these blue SXL Automatics) were not installed at the factory, but could be (and often were) installed by dealers. That SN is too early to decode for exact build date. Judging by the color scheme and the relatively high SN (and the fuel line style), I'd say it was probably built aroun 1968-1969. Now I need to dig mine out of the box (it's waiting it's turn in line) and read the SN to see where it fits in relation to your saw. That's another nice score my friend. Nicer than mine.


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## Rudedog (Feb 19, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> I have one just like that Randy, except mine doesn't have the manual oiler pump bits. From what I gathered, those parts (on these blue SXL Automatics) were not installed at the factory, but could be (and often were) installed by dealers. That SN is too early to decode for exact build date. Judging by the color scheme and the relatively high SN (and the fuel line style), I'd say it was probably built aroun 1968-1969. Now I need to dig mine out of the box (it's waiting it's turn in line) and read the SN to see where it fits in relation to your saw. That's another nice score my friend. Nicer than mine.



Thanks for the help. For a moment reading your post and holding my saw I really felt like I was on Antiques Roadshow. Then I came to and got back to my beer!


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## Eccentric (Feb 20, 2012)

Rudedog said:


> Thanks for the help. For a moment reading your post and holding my saw I really felt like I was on Antiques Roadshow. Then I came to and got back to my beer!



Not sure if that's a compliment or an insult. No matter. Where's _*my*_ beer?

My saw is just a tad earlier than yours. Dug it out and checked the SN. *30181003*. Still the hightest SN blue XL-12 series saw I have by far (and yours is the hightest I've seen). The rest of the tag and the markings are identical. I believe Homelite switched to the black/silver stickers on the carb box shortly after your saw was made. Mine's missing a clutch cover and clutch drum (I have spares, but not a cover with the right paint scheme) and has about a pound of gunk on it. DIRTY SAW! 

A friend here sent it to me for the cost of shipping about a year ago. I put it on the shelf (in 'line') and haven't done much with it yet. Needs a GOOD cleaning and maybe new rings. P/C look good, but there's lotsa carbon. Rings are probably gunked into the ring grooves. Once I get it all squared away I'll hunt for a 'correct' clutch cover.


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## k5alive (Feb 20, 2012)

i still havnt been able to come up with any info but i have a sxl cutoff sawi th a full wrap handle text me i need stihl 075/076 parts i have pics, you better too, -Anthony


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## specktout (Mar 8, 2012)

*Homelite Super XL Parts*

I just found this site looking for parts for my Super XL Automatic its a red one with points, I can't seem to get any fire and I was hoping to find a electronic ignition kit to replace the old coil and points system, but maybe someone on here can direct me to a good parts site for this saw. P.S. I've owned this saw since 1979 so it's part of the family and I would like to revive it.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 8, 2012)

specktout said:


> I just found this site looking for parts for my Super XL Automatic its a red one with points, I can't seem to get any fire and I was hoping to find a electronic ignition kit to replace the old coil and points system, but maybe someone on here can direct me to a good parts site for this saw. P.S. I've owned this saw since 1979 so it's part of the family and I would like to revive it.



I'd take the wires to the points loose and check it with an ohmmeter (continuity meter) to see if the points are making contact. If it's not been serviced in awhile it's a good chance that's what's wrong with it. You could also check the coil and kill switch also. You may not need any parts, just a little tlc.


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## pioneerguy600 (Mar 8, 2012)

It seems that the electronic ign Homelites are prone to failure more often than the points ign type are. I keep all of mine points & cond. as those replacement modules are kinda pricey.


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## specktout (Mar 8, 2012)

I understand how to check the points, but how do you check the coil?


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## 67L36Driver (Mar 8, 2012)

*SXL made in 1996*

Got an SXL with a toasted piston from a friend last Saturday.

UT10045F SN HR2140190 Has a solid state Phelon ignition with a black coil. Zama carb. with the small fuel line. Paint, under a pound can of saw cake, has only a few chips. The cylinder got so hot it blistered the paint in the bottom of the carb. box.

It's the one in the middle.






Hit BIN on a piston w/rings on evilbay. Cylinder cleaned up serviceable enuff.

Can I leave out the cylinder base gasket?

Carl.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 8, 2012)

specktout said:


> I understand how to check the points, but how do you check the coil?



You have to use an ohmmeter. Go from ground to the points wire with it disconnected from the points, should read just a few ohms, probably not over 10 or so. The secondary of the coil is measured from ground to the end of the sparkplug wire, should read several thousand ohms. This is actually a step up transformer, but called a coil. A small AC voltage induced into the primary which in turn induces it into the secondary and steps up the voltage. Smaller amount of windings on the primary side compared to the secondary. If it shows open on the secondary side you could also have a bad plug wire.


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## specktout (Mar 9, 2012)

a. palmer jr. said:


> You have to use an ohmmeter. Go from ground to the points wire with it disconnected from the points, should read just a few ohms, probably not over 10 or so. The secondary of the coil is measured from ground to the end of the sparkplug wire, should read several thousand ohms. This is actually a step up transformer, but called a coil. A small AC voltage induced into the primary which in turn induces it into the secondary and steps up the voltage. Smaller amount of windings on the primary side compared to the secondary. If it shows open on the secondary side you could also have a bad plug wire.



Thank you


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## 67L36Driver (Mar 14, 2012)

*Late production SXL.*

Just finished putting in a new piston & rings in this. S.N. HR2140190.......circa 1996 production.


















Has a Zama carb. and a black Phelon solid state coil.

Previous owner let it get clogged up with saw cake and overheated to the point the piston welded itself to the cylinder wall.

I need to find an XL-12 stack exhaust and get rid of that ugly sheet metal muffler.


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## Eccentric (Mar 14, 2012)

67L36Driver said:


> Just finished putting in a new piston & rings in this. S.N. HR2140190.......circa 1996 production.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Pics don't show up for me Carl. A stack wouldn't look "right" on a LATE production saw like that. Get one of the earlier, smaller can mufflers like what I have on this XL-12. Just my $.02. It's your saw my friend. Do whatcha want...


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## 67L36Driver (Mar 14, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> Pics don't show up for me Carl. A stack wouldn't look "right" on a LATE production saw like that. Get one of the earlier, smaller can mufflers like what I have on this XL-12. Just my $.02. It's your saw my friend. Do whatcha want...



But, a stack would be much louder. Save the lawyer approved muffler for the next owner.

See if the links work.

View attachment 228870
View attachment 228871
View attachment 228872
View attachment 228873


And, no, I did not paint it. Finish is original.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 14, 2012)

67L36Driver said:


> But, a stack would be much louder. Save the lawyer approved muffler for the next owner.
> 
> See if the links work.
> 
> ...



I have one that's similar to that one only mine says "Old Blue" on the flywheel cover. I think I'll leave the stock muffler on mine. I do, however, have a stack "muffler" on my XL-12. It's a little hard on the ears.


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## 5speed (Mar 28, 2013)

I have a homelite Super XL i just picked up two hours ago and has no ID plate on it. I'm kinda bummed bc it needs some tlc. Can anyone help with Identification!



Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2


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## 5speed (Mar 29, 2013)

Ok guys i did some very intense searching and I found that someone stated homelite didnt put hand guards on XLAO's until 78-79ish?
My saw has no place to mount the guard or any sign of a guard ever existing.... Can anyone help?

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2


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## AntidotPuh (Mar 28, 2020)

Hi guys . I'm new here and recently I bought SXL automatic in good shape except muffler is damaged by rust. Does anyone know where could I find in general parts for old Homelite chainsaws( sxl) ??? I'm located in Germany so this could be a double problem but i like this Saw


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## joe25DA (Mar 28, 2020)

AntidotPuh said:


> Hi guys . I'm new here and recently I bought SXL automatic in good shape except muffler is damaged by rust. Does anyone know where could I find in general parts for old Homelite chainsaws( sxl) ??? I'm located in Germany so this could be a double problem but i like this Saw


If it’s not too rotted you could braze it. I’ve done this to one saw muffler.


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## joe25DA (Nov 1, 2020)

Thought I’d bring back an old thread that I posted in 8-9 years ago. Had a bunch of SXLs since then but I had sold or given them all away. I was watching one of my favorite movies recently (Maximum Overdrive) and in a scene of chaos it show a kid on a BMX (Wish I had mine from ‘86) riding thru a neighborhood. In one of the scenes is a nice clean SXL that was sitting on a guys neck. I’m easily influenced so I had to get another. This one was right in my back yard. Old timer in town 1 street over who sits on about 40 acre and has an old school bus he turned into a workshop. He bought it new In town. It’s a newer blue coil saw but has strong spark. Perfect piston too. Ran a new fuel line and pickup, runs real strong. I have a nice HOMELITE 3 saw plan I’ll show soon


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## 46 Poulan (Nov 1, 2020)

Real nice saw-I like them with a pump oiler and a bow on them. Have a few blue ones with stack mufflers.


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## joe25DA (Nov 1, 2020)

46 Poulan said:


> Real nice saw-I like them with a pump oiler and a bow on them. Have a few blue ones with stack mufflers.View attachment 865298


Like the vintage Coleman too. Seems to go well with a HOMELITE.


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## joe25DA (Nov 1, 2020)




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## drumbum (Nov 1, 2020)

46 Poulan said:


> Real nice saw-I like them with a pump oiler and a bow on them. Have a few blue ones with stack mufflers.View attachment 865298



Is that a 242?


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## drumbum (Nov 1, 2020)

joe25DA said:


> View attachment 865330


Nice!

I think I only have around 15 stoves and 20 lanterns.


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## joe25DA (Nov 1, 2020)

drumbum said:


> Nice!
> 
> I think I only have around 15 stoves and 20 lanterns.


So you have room for more. The Coleman stuff has been like saws. One turn into many


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