# Stihl Axe?



## AJLOGGER (Dec 16, 2002)

I am thinking about buying a new Stihl chopping axe, I chop wood and have broke several cheap axes and was wondering about the steel in the head and the handle, I would appreciate any feedback.


----------



## glens (Dec 16, 2002)

I have no opinion based on experience with them. For more information you might enjoy a visit to http://gardening.fiskars.com/product.html?sub=Axes&main=Garden Tools


----------



## JimL (Dec 16, 2002)

Just 2 days ago I had logger one in line to buy 2 of the PA30 stihl axes for his buddies. 

I was talking to him about them, me having never used one had some questions. He said the only thing they are not good for is wedging. 
Then logger 2 gets in line right behind him and says the same thing.


Surprised me for sure !

They are sharp, very sharp.


----------



## Ryan Willock (Dec 16, 2002)

i have one and they are VERY SHARP!!!! i accedentally niped my thumb with it just barely touched the blade and it cut me to the bone!! i still can't feel my thumb when it gets below 40 outside i have to disagree about them not wedeging well, thats what i use to drive all my wedges. you can beat the he11 out of it and the handle just won't break


----------



## tundraotto (Dec 16, 2002)

You can find the exact same axe under the manufacturer; Gerber. Fiskars came up with the axe in the late 1980s - Fiskars and Gerber have since merged and they sell their product to Stihl. Its exactly the same product - just without the "Stihl" name on it.


----------



## Gypo Logger (Dec 16, 2002)

If its the axe I have seen, dont buy it. Its more like an axe then a maul and is useless. It's biggest drawback is the short ass handle, definately an ankle bighter! A maul should have a 36" handle and nothing else unless you are a midget. Trust me, with a short handle, your gonna wear it in the shin.
John


----------



## JimL (Dec 16, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Ryan Willock _
> *i have one and they are VERY SHARP!!!! i accedentally niped my thumb with it just barely touched the blade and it cut me to the bone!! i still can't feel my thumb when it gets below 40 outside i have to disagree about them not wedeging well, thats what i use to drive all my wedges. you can beat the he11 out of it and the handle just won't break *



I was talkin about the small head on it.


Try wedging a 40" tree that wants to go the other way. Thats when you really hit it


----------



## spreaderman (Dec 16, 2002)

*axe inventory*

madsens1.com has a good inventory of axes and hatchets and more, all logger quality I bought one recently from them and am very pleased with it.............they should have all you need for chopping, and different length handles too


----------



## Bruiser (Dec 26, 2002)

*Stihl vs. Fiskars Axes*

My research indicates that Stihls PA40 Axe (their biggest) is the same as Fiskars 1400 or #7853 (their next-to-biggest). There is also the Fiskars 2400 or #7854 which is about 5" longer at 28.5" (and heavier, I think) than Stihl's PA40. FWIW, Gerber does not carry an equivalent splitting axe, only the lighter, camp-style axes.


----------



## tony marks (Dec 26, 2002)

i have the 28.5 inch model . its a fine tool but ill have to say u better swing correctly with it or u realy mite hit the leg. the head should always come dn strait horizontal on impact. with a twist if u are into that..


----------



## spreaderman (Dec 26, 2002)

*PA40 a good choice*

I bought the PA 40 , and stihl also has one for felling, it is just like the PA 40 without the ears on it, I used it some an am pleased with it, it cost just over 50.00 in my area, the dealer said I has a replacement guarantee, if ever I broke it which would be hard to do, as for wedging it has a down side but will do the job , it is a excellent axe


----------



## tony marks (Dec 29, 2002)

bruiser ,i like the pt about the pictures on beer cans. the difference is we are desperately trying to find the kids. 
with husbands ,i suspect its more a takeum or leaveum deal. probably rather leaveum.


----------



## Marky Mark (Dec 29, 2002)

*contact this man*

All this man does is deal in axes, here's his email address and ebay auctions to get an idea of what he deals in.He "Don" handles about 100 axes and every handle you could ever think of.


[email protected]

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.d...rthlink.net&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=25

I wonder what axe Gypo would reccomend???


----------



## jokers (Jan 2, 2003)

*Fiskars 7859*

After reading all the praise regarding the Fiskars axes I drove 40 miles through freezing rain last night, to the nearest Lowes to get one. By all appearances, the 7853 and 7854 are obsolete numbers in the supply chain or for some odd reason Fiskars labels the models for Lowes differently. The axes and mauls at Lowes look exactly like the ones shown on the Fiskars website and they carry the same warranty. I also made note that Fiskars has changed model numbers at least twice since the introduction of these tools so my assumption seems reasonable to me. They had a very nice, well stocked display for the Fiskars axes, and the prices are good also. I bought the 7859 which is the largest they had to offer and seems to match the decription of the 7854, 28 3/8" and 4.5# for $35 + tax. Internet price is around $50. Now for the review: Between last night and this afternoon I split about 4 face cord of various hardwoods with the Fiskars and the other mauls I own(except the infamous Chopper 1) which include a Collins Rapid Maul w/4.5# head and 36" fiberglass handle, 6# maul with 36" fiberglass handle, and an 8# maul with 36" wood handle. I split an assortment of ash, hickory, beech, maple, elm, and locust. With straight grained woods like the hickory and ash, the Fiskars worked as well as any of them, even in some roughly 40" ash I had, just whittle around the outside. If however you want to split maple, elm, or locust, forget this thing, it just bounces off most of the time, although I did stick the head a couple of times. Sometimes swinging harder seems logical but it didn`t help. For most of the tougher wood the Rapid Maul and the 6#er were pretty equal with the 6 having a slight edge in what it will split, but the Rapid Maul is less tiring to use. There were several pieces that I was unable to split with anything but the 8# maul or a saw. I always worked my way up on the tougher ones with the different mauls to establish the threshold at which they would break. The Fiskars maul has a nice feel and it seems it would make a pretty nice axe for wedging with the larger head. Even with the flared head, it will cut dirty bark off just like an axe, and the short handle is nice if you carry your wedging axe on your back in a pouch, it doesn`t stick up too much and the center of balance is all low so it would stay put. The short handle is a handicap for splitting. Seems to me that the increased head speed from a longer handle would be a benefit, maybe helping it split tougher rounds, and you do need a higher chopping block to work this maul which makes more work to get the rounds up for the split. All in all it`s a nice tool and I like using it, but if I`m going out in the bush where I don`t want to carry more than one maul for splitting, it`s staying home. Sorry about the long windedness, just wanted to give a thorough review. Russ


----------



## glens (Jan 2, 2003)

jokers,

I very much appreciate that particular long-windedness.

Thank you.

Glen


----------



## jokers (Jan 2, 2003)

Thanks for thanking me. Russ


----------



## liiltoy (Dec 5, 2005)

*Love it*

Let me start by saying that I am no lumberjack, just the average home fire place log splitter. I bought a half cord of Oak here and used this axe/splitter for the first time and loved it. I am 5'8" and about 180lbs; to me it is perfect whether hitting off the chopping block or on the ground. I love the weight and the lack of vibration with the OCCASIONAL mis-calculated whack. I have a regualr (Brand?) 8# splitter and this Fiskars axe works much better for me. I think it has a lot to do with the edge they have on it. I thought I would start with my old splitter and moved to the new one due to frustration of the head sticking and having to waste energy with sledge. What is your opinion?

As stated before, sorry for the long feedback but I am also thourough.


----------



## DanManofStihl (Dec 5, 2005)

I have a fiscar splitting axe and that thing is about bullet proof. I Have yet to break it I am pretty sure that fiscar is the same as the stihl ones. I know the fiscar has a lifetime warratee that is the reason I bought it. I have bought to many cheap ones that th ehead flew off and I was afraid that I would hurt someone or something. The fiscar splits pretty well and is light to. It is one of the better axes I have used.


----------



## rdbee (Dec 7, 2005)

Those Fiskar hatchets and axes aren't intended for splitting wood the- reason the fancy plastic handle wraps around the head is so there is no way the head can fly off and kill your buddy when you are wailin away on your wedge. This is a Worker's Comp law some places (BC for sure). Otherwise they require you to have to drill a hole through the head and the handle and put a bolt in there. 
Anyways the last axe you want to split anything is a Fiskar's. As far as a wedging axe a 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 lb. with a longish handle works best for me. Heavier is better for tipping the big wood, but it gets on your nerves lugging a 5 lb axe in your belt all day. Keep the axe in a bucket of water (or even better the spare room toilet) and the head will never fly off. Also keep that sucker really sharp for that bad, bad day when you pinch 'er and you forget the extra bar, bust your last wedge, and your other saw is a mile downhill.


----------



## West Texas (Dec 7, 2005)

*Reply to Russ*

Now Russ, to put those heavy axes and mauls into perspective; "How big are you?" Cause I'm not only old; but, a lightweight too.  Tom


----------



## 16gauge (Dec 8, 2005)

glens said:


> jokers,
> 
> I very much appreciate that particular long-windedness.
> 
> ...


Just what I was thinking...Jokers is some kind of athlete to do this comparison is one day. Many honors jokers.


----------



## Monkeyhanger (Dec 8, 2005)

rdbee said:


> Keep the axe in a bucket of water (or even better the spare room toilet) and the head will never fly off. Also keep that sucker really sharp...



Hello,

so after being a passive member here for a couple of years here is my first post, so don't shoot me down if you don't like it!

First thing is NEVER keep an axe head in water or even wet! That is bad...

What I do to solve the problem of the head loosening (although with a good axe this should not really happen anyway) is to treat the handle with linseed oil. When I buy an axe a first sand off all paint and/lacquer until the handle is clean and smooth. Once the handle is clean I soak it overnight (including the head where the wedge is) in thinned linseed oil. Then I clean all the oil off again and let the axe dry for a couple of days. I repeat this again with normal linseed oil twice more and again once per year. This keeps the handle tight, waterproof and elastic! Water doesn't.

The axes I use are a Ochsenkopf Europa (a small felling axe with a narrow blade) and an Ochsenkopf double bitted axe (a little thicker than the Europa). Both will push cut through hanging paper or shave hairs off my arm and the edges are convex honed and polished, that is how sharp an axe must be.

The steel is also so hard that they can be a real pain to sharpen. However I only ever need to sharpen them once or twice a year anyway. The Europa also rings a little like a bell if you tap it on the side of the blade. Very nice!

I've also got the Gransfors splitting maul/hammer and the trekking hatchet. Also both treated this way.

Hope I didn't explain thing too complicated.

Bye


----------



## Rotax Robert (Dec 8, 2005)

Heck and all I use is radiator coolant.


----------



## mktest (Dec 8, 2005)

Monkeyhanger said:


> Once the handle is clean I soak it overnight (including the head where the wedge is) in thinned linseed oil. Then I clean all the oil off again and let the axe dry for a couple of days. I repeat this again with normal linseed oil twice more and again once per year. This keeps the handle tight, waterproof and elastic! Water doesn't.


Yeah, we use linseed oil too, for nearly all tools, both the wooden and metal parts. We use it for most farm equipment as well, ploughs, whatever. 
I also find that when working in snowy conditions, the linseed oil makes the handles less slippery than pure wood (which go wet and freeze) or pure metal. 

What do you use to thin the linseed oil? I use raw linseed oil which penetrates quite well, but if I can thin it I guess it would improve.

(BTW, anyone trying linseed oil should be aware that paper, cloth, can start burning, it should not be thrown into the trashcan without being soaked in water first. You know this of course Monkeyhanger, and most others here too, but it makes good sense to warn about it. I usually burn it in a bin  )


----------



## John Ellison (Dec 8, 2005)

I like to use a PVC pipe that is capped off on the bottom to soak the handles in. Boiled linseed oil seems to dry faster than raw to me. I started out with straight boiled l. o. in the pipe and later added leftover paint thinner and some kerosene. It seems to be good for the wood especially when the handle is out in the hot sun a lot. Let it soak for a week and the wood is almost black and very springy.

mktest, does that keep outside metal from rusting?

John


----------



## Monkeyhanger (Dec 8, 2005)

mktest said:


> What do you use to thin the linseed oil? I use raw linseed oil which penetrates quite well, but if I can thin it I guess it would improve.
> 
> (BTW, anyone trying linseed oil should be aware that paper, cloth, can start burning, it should not be thrown into the trashcan without being soaked in water first. You know this of course Monkeyhanger, and most others here too, but it makes good sense to warn about it. I usually burn it in a bin  )



Hi,

I thin the linseed oil 50/50 with turpentine substitute for the first coating. From then on I also just pure linseed oil.

You're also quite right warning about being careful with cloths soaked in linseed oil. It is as you said obvious to me but very probably not for others. So sorry everyone for not mentioning that! I use paper towels and just throw them on my fire when I'm finished. 

Bye


----------



## bugfart (Dec 8, 2005)

That was fantastic. 
Thats what makes this place special.


----------



## mktest (Dec 8, 2005)

John Ellison said:


> I like to use a PVC pipe that is capped off on the bottom to soak the handles in. Boiled linseed oil seems to dry faster than raw to me. []
> mktest, does that keep outside metal from rusting?
> John


Linseed is good at preventing rust, yeah. It is not 100% protective, but, at least it's not dangerous to use on farm equipment. Linseed oil was a base for many old lead-oxide primers (that ARE dangerous, at least if eaten...). I use it on my tools that I keep in my car all year round, and on tools we use outdoors much. 

The linseed oil doesn't really "dry" the way I understand it, it oxidises and hardens. And boiled linseed oil oxidises faster than "raw" linseed oil. It doesn't penetrate as deep into the wood though. I could imagine that the boiled linseed oil can build a thicker layer, and thus protect better on the outside, but I don't really know that much about it.

It's the oxidation that creates heat and can start fires in rags, paper, cloth.

Monkeyhanger :thanks for the tip about terpentine (or substitute), I imagined that would work but haven't tried myself. I reckon my granddad used it though, I think I remember the smell.


----------



## 046 (Dec 9, 2005)

last year home depot was clearing out all fiskar axes for cheap. full sized axes for $18, wood spliting axes for $23 and hatchet for $12. 

first class axes! won't see those deals again...


----------



## kraknstak (Dec 9, 2005)

I am n all of yore nawlige. Will my walmart ax nik my shinbone?


----------



## Monkeyhanger (Dec 10, 2005)

kraknstak said:


> I am n all of yore nawlige. Will my walmart ax nik my shinbone?



Hi Kraknstak

Possibly. Hold your axe in front of you with both hands as if you want to hit a log on the ground with your arms straight, when you lower it to the ground (imagine chopping an invisible log in slow motion) it should touch the ground somewhere in front of your feet. That would be ideal if you don't use an axe often.

The longer the handle the safer an axe is. When I use my Ochsenkopf Europa I'm very, very careful. I've seen what a sharp axe can do to a foot! It wasn't a pretty sight...

Hope that helps.

Bye


----------



## bugfart (Dec 10, 2005)

I have fun with the hand tools. I have a coal shovel and sledge with "Old Holland" branded in them. I'm going to have to make a "New Homelite" axe and maul now.

The hat? "Antique Farm Equipment" I only wear it in the shed or garage when sharpening or maybe tipping one...

The action in your hips and knees are what generates a powerful swing. You bend at the knees and pull your hips straight down maintaining arm length from your body - driving through the entire swing. You should be aiming at a spot on the ground no less than three feet from your body. I prefer my 15# maul (has an iron pipe handle) but it needs sharpenned bad.
Gonna have to look at the new stuff now.


----------

