# My Climbing Gear



## rwbinbc (Feb 3, 2010)

I have the cheapest setup I could afford, Buckingham spikes, Buckingham saddle, and arborplex ropes. I made a buck strap out of the climbing rope and used a climbing hitch to set the size. Is this sound safe to use? Another ? is my spikes I bought used and the bottom straps dont have the rings in them and they are bearly long enough to use. They seem to loosen up while I'm using them. Should they have the rings in them? I plan on buying some soon. 



Any input Thanks Rob.


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## climber338 (Feb 4, 2010)

i think that you should be ok with what you have. If you cut the buckstrap from your climbing line then i would make sure that the ends of the rope will not come undone. As long as your using the correct climbing knots and hitches you should be safe. Your straps for you spikes should be on there already. As far as i know they should be connected to it with that ring that you were talking about. My spikes always tend to get loose after getting 10-20 feet into the tree so i always cinch then back up once im in a good spot. Be safe and have fun.


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## RacerX (Feb 4, 2010)

Replacement straps aren't that expensive so if the ones that you have a are a problem then you should replace them. Are you using those spurs for removals?


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## rwbinbc (Feb 4, 2010)

*Here is what it looks like*

Hope This is safe. I have used it just wanting anyone's ideals


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## rwbinbc (Feb 4, 2010)

Yes I use them for removal only, I want a set of acsenders for triming.


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## oscar4883 (Feb 4, 2010)

I like a thimble on the end of my lanyard were it hooks to the snap. Some snaps, can't quite tell on yours, can be a little sharp for my liking were the rope feeds thru.


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## tree md (Feb 4, 2010)

Buckstrap looks good to me. I have made a many of them just like that.

Tip: when you put your spikes on work your foot up and down before you go up the tree by moving your ankle up and down. This will work any slop in the straps loose and you can then cinch them down tight where they need to be.


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## dantiff2 (Feb 4, 2010)

Stihl-O-Matic gave me some awesome advise about spurs. Take one wrap around the spur shank then go around your leg to buckle. This will keep the strap tight and the shank in place. It's much better, but you said your straps are short so you might not be able to do this..My straps are 26" long with the rings already attached.

Wespur part# Item # spu717
Bailey's part #Item # 21112

Dan


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## rwbinbc (Feb 4, 2010)

My spikes are like new but I bought at a pawn shop for $100, The bottom straps are not long enough nor do they have the rings in them. I just going to buy new bottom straps for them. I look at them and think the rings alone would help alot. What about up grading to velcro tops? The guys I work with keep talking about Velcro top pads are they all that? 



Rob


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## Tree Pig (Feb 4, 2010)

dantiff2 said:


> Stihl-O-Matic gave me some awesome advise about spurs. Take one wrap around the spur shank then go around your leg to buckle. This will keep the strap tight and the shank in place. It's much better, but you said your straps are short so you might not be able to do this..My straps are 26" long with the rings already attached.
> 
> Wespur part# Item # spu717
> Bailey's part #Item # 21112
> ...



wow thanks for the mention I am supervised you remembered who it was after this long. REPPED


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## tree md (Feb 4, 2010)

I've got a set of Buckingham tree gaffs with the rings like you mention (never seen a set without the rings) and regular L pads as well as a set of Bashlin aluminum pole gaffs with the velcro wraps.

I do 99% of my removals with the the Bashlin pole gaffs. Love the velcro wraps myself. I only use the Buckingham tree gaffs on the few Pines that I remove or large Cottonwoods, Shagbark Hickory, trees with deep furrowed bark. 

Yes, I always take a wrap with my straps, was taught to do that and have never seen anyone strap up any differently.

The straps will be stiff and hard to fasten when they are new. After you break them in they will be a little more supple and stretch a little where they will be easier to fasten.


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## ozzy42 (Feb 4, 2010)

rwbinbc said:


> Hope This is safe. I have used it just wanting anyone's ideals




One question,and one suggestion.


Question:Is that a taughtline hitch you're using?
If it is ,it appears from the pic it is tied wrong.
The part going to your snap should come out of the middle of the wraps,not the bottom,no?

Suggestion:Though the way you have it double terminated to the snap is safe for sure, but you could run the line thru that screw link after it exits the friction hitch to work a a slacktender,and then tie a stopper knot in the remaining line.
Looks like it would be stopped by the link .



I made almost the same set up,except I cut the line long enough to tie a regular 4coil prusik with both ends going to a biner.
This seems to be easier to tend slack with 1 hand using a small screw link.


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## tree md (Feb 4, 2010)

ozzy42 said:


> One question,and one suggestion.
> 
> 
> Question:Is that a taughtline hitch you're using?
> ...



Good catch on the tautline hitch. Yes the end should be coming out of the middle of the coils.

I preferred the 4 coil prussic when I made them as well.


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## rwbinbc (Feb 4, 2010)

I thought it was a blake's hitch? Is the not what you guy use? It works nice on my climbing rope, Push down lightly and you decsend, Stop and You stop. I have not used anything else yet is there a better knot to use? Thinking on buying a pursik and making a double tail buck strap. IDK I like the input. I only know what I've learned from the people I work with and around Me. The 1 guy is a really good climber. But he also has a "rock" problem. 



Thanks Rob


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## rwbinbc (Feb 4, 2010)

Also when I tried the double it back and trying the knot it pulls on the live line and helps it slip and loosen up on Me, So I cut it and did this. When I did it this way it doesn't slip unless You push on the top on the knot.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blake's_hitch


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## tree md (Feb 4, 2010)

rwbinbc said:


> I thought it was a blake's hitch? Is the not what you guy use? It works nice on my climbing rope, Push down lightly and you decsend, Stop and You stop. I have not used anything else yet is there a better knot to use? Thinking on buying a pursik and making a double tail buck strap. IDK I like the input. I only know what I've learned from the people I work with and around Me. The 1 guy is a really good climber. But he also has a "rock" problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Rob



Maybe a Blakes. Someone else can maybe chime in here... Maybe Blakesmaster. I only climbed on that knot a couple of times and didn't care for it. That was back in the early 90's so I don't really remember what it looked like. I always climbed on a regular prussic when I climbed with a traditional setup. Started out on a 4 coil and went to 5 when I got heavier.

Most guys are climbing with split tail prussic cords now and using some form of french or European knots that were popularized by the mountain climbers. I am personally climbing on a VT hitch.

You can check your knots and learn new ones here:

http://www.mytreelessons.com/index.htm

And I'd get away from the rock head as soon as you can. Try to hire on with a respectable service. It has been my experience that the rock heads are not dependable for anything, let alone learning climbing from and are downright dangerous to have in the workplace. Not to mention they will usually steal everything that is not nailed down.

Best of luck!


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## Bermie (Feb 4, 2010)

Yes that looks like a blake's, solid dependable knot it will serve you well at this stage...I climbed on one for about three years before moving on...I never liked a prussik.

As soon as you can afford it get some triple action carabiners, one for where your lanyard/buckstrap attaches to your harness D, and one or two for your main limbing line, they are safer than the snaps for life support, it adds one more action before it can come open...I only use a snap on the end of my lanyard. Some here will have a different opinion...I like a wider safety margin...

And I'll say this before anyone else does...Jeff Jepson's book, 'Tree Climber's Companion'...the best $15 you'll spend at this stage.

I'll add to the wrap strap camp for spikes, only way to keep them stable...unless you do lots of takedowns, padded leather pads are fine for now.

Got a helmet???

Go slow, stay safe...


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## ozzy42 (Feb 4, 2010)

rwbinbc said:


> Also when I tried the double it back and trying the knot it pulls on the live line and helps it slip and loosen up on Me, So I cut it and did this. When I did it this way it doesn't slip unless You push on the top on the knot.
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blake's_hitch



My bad if it's a blakes ,your good to go.
But from the pic it looked like the tail was coming out after 2 wraps from the top.
If you had to tuck it inside the bottom 2 loops ,then it is a blakes.
Like I said looked different from the pic .


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## rwbinbc (Feb 17, 2010)

I went and got the new lower straps, saw tail, and split tail today from our local shop. The spike fit nice now.


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## af7850 (Feb 17, 2010)

*Hey rwb...*

Where are you in Michigan?


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## rwbinbc (Feb 17, 2010)

Grand Rapids


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## af7850 (Feb 18, 2010)

Yeah, that is a Blakes, should be fine for what you're doing. The bridge only needs to come out of the middle of the hitch if you want it to work in both directions, like a 2 in 1.

I'm on the "strap-wrap" bandwagon too, and the velcro pads are quite comfy.

It sounds like you're moving in the right direction. I think you'll find that, as you continue to learn and advance, you'll find increasing satisfaction in this line of work. If you're coming out to my side of the state sometime, let me know if you want to run with us for a day. Lots of talent and knowledge around here, and its always fun to shake things up a bit.


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