# Hand saw for climbing



## randyg (Mar 30, 2009)

Was thinking of buying a Silky "Sugoi" with 14 inch blade.
Wondering if any LOVE/HATE comments about this saw for climbing?
Found on sale for 50, preciate any input. Thanks


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## oldirty (Mar 30, 2009)

good saw but the handle will catch your rope and whatever else it can get ahold of.

the sugio was my last handsaw. it "fell" off the truck never to be seen again.

so to replace it i went with the ibuki. i am liking that handsaw.

both big handsaws for sure.

i'd get the ibuki again before the sugio.


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## pdqdl (Mar 30, 2009)

Every time this topic comes up, I recommend the Fiskars handsaw that you can buy at Walmart. So far as I know, nobody here at AS has ever tried it out. I would put it up against any saw made.

Here is another thread on that topic. This will save a lot of people time in re-posting the same opinions. My post is #27

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=84233&highlight=fiskars


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## randyg (Mar 30, 2009)

pdqdl said:


> Every time this topic comes up, I recommend the Fiskars handsaw that you can buy at Walmart. So far as I know, nobody here at AS has ever tried it out. I would put it up against any saw made.
> 
> Here is another thread on that topic. This will save a lot of people time in re-posting the same opinions. My post is #27
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=84233&highlight=fiskars



THANK YOU for the direction . . .


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## ATH (Mar 30, 2009)

I currently have the Sugoi, Silky Ibuki, Silky Gomtaro, and a Samurai (and a couple of folding saws that don't get used on 'real' jobs - just when talking with clients and showing them stuff on small trees).

The Sugoi is the one on my harness everytime. The Ibuki is nice, but heavier and has a wider kerf so more work. I won't call it a waste of money - but I would have been better off to buy another Sugoi instead. The others: it is nice to have smaller ones to reach into tighter spaces on occassion.

$50 = buy it and don't look back - I can't imagine you won't like the saw and the "go cheaper" argument just lost a good $15+ at that price.

Sherrill will price match, by the way (I pass that along because they are a site sponsor and a good company to deal with. Even when they messed up some numbers on my last order, they quickly got it taken care of without any arguments - just a couple of phone calls to get things clarified).

_Edit to add:_
I have tried several cheaper saws over the years including Fiskars and Corona (but I have never tried a good Fanno). While I have not tried a wal-mart Fiskars recently, all others that I have used just aren't in the same class as Silky or Samurai - not in initial quality, and definately not after even a single day of heavy use. I'm not saying pdqdl is wrong (because I don't know that I've tried the specific saws he is talking about)...but I'm not waisting my money to find out either. $70 is a bite when you spend it, but not so much a year later when it is still running strong and earning me money.


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## pdqdl (Mar 30, 2009)

Granted, the Fiskars do seem a bit cheap, and they are not the lightest saw you can buy, either. They are probably a bit larger than folks like too. I can cut a 2"-3" branch with it faster than you can unsnap, use, and re-hang your chainsaw. Mine are about 5 years old, and cut as well as the day I bought them, mostly because they are so easy to sharpen.

But no other saw allows you to quickly sharpen it on the job; certainly not with the same round file you use on your trim saw. The tiny little triangular teeth found on most pruning saws will always gum up in pitchy wood; not so with the Fiskars.

All the guys I have let use my saw have liked it,

Here are some pics:







A closeup of the teeth. They are probably the only special thing about this saw.


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## tree md (Mar 30, 2009)

Can't remember if I posted in the other thread but I have the sugoi as well. It's been a good one, had it for two years. However, it is a tad longer than I like. If I had it to do over again I'd prolly go with the Zubat.


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## randyg (Mar 30, 2009)

pdqdl said:


> Granted, the Fiskars do seem a bit cheap, and they are not the lightest saw you can buy, either. They are probably a bit larger than folks like too. I can cut a 2"-3" branch with it faster than you can unsnap, use, and re-hang your chainsaw. Mine are about 5 years old, and cut as well as the day I bought them, mostly because they are so easy to sharpen.
> 
> But no other saw allows you to quickly sharpen it on the job; certainly not with the same round file you use on your trim saw.




I've seen these saws before, big box store, and wondered if would hold edge. Sharpen with 5/32s round????? NOW YOUV'E GOT MY ATTENTION


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## oldirty (Mar 31, 2009)

that old beater pdq? lol. cmon.

i'll run my fine wire brush into the grooves from the top down to clean out the junk. or spray it with simple green or parts cleaner to get it back to "pristine" condition. i'd rather have the silky thanks.


although hand sharpening it with the little file is a pretty good feature.


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## gitrdun_climbr (Mar 31, 2009)

The Sugoi is a bad mo-fo, it's what I carry. On my leg the handle used to hook rope/brush and get pulled out of its scabbard. Those Silkys are so darn sharp too, not cool. Once I started carrying on my belt it didn't come out much any more; only once in a year since on my hip; of course right when the homeowner's standing there!

Pros: Sharp, sharp, sharp and light! I have two well used ones and both still cut SUPER fast. Rigid, versatile scabbard allowing you to just drop your saw into the scabbard using sound alone. Extra grippy, comfy handle and that hook keeps your hand on the grip even if the saw binds or your hands are wet. Long-boy...makes your reach excellent for grabbing branches, rope or whatever. The little Ivy cutter on the end keeps your saw in the cut if you pull back a bit too far; might save someone from binding the tip, bending and breaking on the way back forward.

Cons: Plastic scabbard seems to have dead space or unneeded material taking up space. Also, blade eventually wears a hole in plastic scabbard. The hook on the handle does occasionally grab stuff. Expensive...replacement blades are almost as much as a whole new Sugoi. The bolt holding the blade on wants to loosen from time to time, though I suppose a drop of locktite would solve that and it's an easy to thumb-tighten on the fly with it's tooless head. If you even touch yourself with the blade, you're cut...they like to bite.

Only other handsaw I've used was a Corona, years ago, so I can't really compare the Sugoi to other saws. Above is just from my personal experience with the Sugoi. $50? Buy it!


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## GASoline71 (Mar 31, 2009)

Silky "Zubat"... A little smaller than the Sugoi, so it's a little easier to handle in the tree. The grip is really nice, and the plastic scabbard is small and lightweight. Mine hung from my belt... 

I don't climb anymore... but still have that saw.

Gary


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## prentice110 (Mar 31, 2009)

climbed with a corona since 2000 and tried out a silky zubat once. great at first but thought it got dull quick and couldnt stand the scabberd. dont do to much trim work anymore tho so dont take my word for it, mostly use hand saws for catchin ropes


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## John Paul Sanborn (Mar 31, 2009)

I have a Zubat and a Sugoi, so I use the former for finer pruning and the latter for when there is bigger wood.



> Cons: Plastic scabbard seems to have dead space or unneeded material taking up space.



I have had this with almost every saw untill I picked up the habbit of tapping the blade before stowing.

I use the Sugoi leg scabbard for almost all my climbing.

No matter what, i will not go back the the old style saws. I buy blades in bulk once a year at tradeshows and save a few dollars.

Now if I could only put a Zubat blade on a 12 foot basswood pole.


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## pdqdl (Mar 31, 2009)

oldirty said:


> that old beater pdq? lol. cmon.
> 
> i'll run my fine wire brush into the grooves from the top down to clean out the junk. or spray it with simple green or parts cleaner to get it back to "pristine" condition. i'd rather have the silky thanks.
> 
> ...



I don't care how pretty a saw is, I only care how well it works.

Wire brush to clean? Simple green or parts cleaner? Mine has never been cleaned since the day it was new. Self cleaning teeth, just like your chainsaw.

It'll cut as well as any other hand saw I have ever touched, and it's at least five years old. Beat that with any other saw!

I wish it has a smaller point, though. Not too good for really tight quarters. It's not so good on twigs and little branches, as the cut is a bit aggressive. It will routinely cut a 1' branch in one pull.


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## brianpatd (Mar 31, 2009)

Using a Silky Gomtaro. Have been for years. I don't use my hand saw for big stuff. I use it for prunes or final cuts after setting a hinge and bore and taking the final strap. I have never had a problem. Scabbard does wear out around 2 years. I replace the blade every year, I guess just to spend money. But I am thoroughly satisfied. No cleaning, sharpening, or hassles in any way. $46 at Sherrill.
BP


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## oldirty (Mar 31, 2009)

pdqdl said:


> It will routinely cut a 1' branch in one pull.



thats a good pull.


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## M.Green - SVTS (Mar 31, 2009)

pdqdl said:


> Every time this topic comes up, I recommend the Fiskars handsaw that you can buy at Walmart. So far as I know, nobody here at AS has ever tried it out. I would put it up against any saw made.
> 
> Here is another thread on that topic. This will save a lot of people time in re-posting the same opinions. My post is #27
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=84233&highlight=fiskars




Just out of curiosity with your saw that you displayed. It doesn't have a double edge meaning it can't cut with a forward thrust only a back. 

I know it doesn't take all that long to cut a 3" branch with your handsaw but wouldn't you rather have a "double" edge so when you thrust forward you cut also? 

I am not criticizing I am really asking the question. I use a double edge plastic handle handsaw I bought at HD and it works great. I've even gone as far as letting the groundman use it when he can't get odd limbs through the chipper. I am not big on letting other people use my chain saws. Plus I spent like 13.99$ on the handsaw so it wouldn't bother me if it broke but it's been a while and it's going strong.


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## ATH (Mar 31, 2009)

All handsaws I have seen are "pull saws" meaning they are designed to cut on the pull stroke only...


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## CLEARVIEW TREE (Mar 31, 2009)

I enjoy the Silky Zubat. Been 5years reliable so far


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## The Lawn Shark (Apr 1, 2009)

oldirty said:


> thats a good pull.



I have the corona version from the big box store....and mine will often cut a 1" limb with one pul also....
I've used all my partners hand saws in the past and mine cuts just a good if not better than theres..


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## TreeTopKid (Apr 1, 2009)

pdqdl said:


> Every time this topic comes up, I recommend the Fiskars handsaw that you can buy at Walmart. So far as I know, nobody here at AS has ever tried it out. I would put it up against any saw made.
> 
> 
> Funnily enough I bought this short handled pair of Fiskars loppers because I thought they were a good size to attach to a saddle. They have a have a small cog on the blade, and I can honestly say hand on heart that they are the best loppers I've ever had.
> ...


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## Raymond (Apr 1, 2009)

oldirty said:


> good saw but the handle will catch your rope and whatever else it can get ahold of.
> 
> the sugio was my last handsaw. it "fell" off the truck never to be seen again.
> 
> ...


The ibuki, is that that long one with the yellow sheaf? Man I want to get that one soon. I too have been using the sugio for a few years now. It's time for the upgrade.


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## 046 (Apr 1, 2009)

hmmm.. may have to check it out .. next trip to wallyworld









pdqdl said:


> Every time this topic comes up, I recommend the Fiskars handsaw that you can buy at Walmart. So far as I know, nobody here at AS has ever tried it out. I would put it up against any saw made.
> 
> Here is another thread on that topic. This will save a lot of people time in re-posting the same opinions. My post is #27
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=84233&highlight=fiskars


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## Raymond (Apr 1, 2009)

046 said:


> hmmm.. may have to check it out .. next trip to wallyworld


Yeah but them are so 1980's LOL.
Now this is what I'm talkin' about.




Not only is it important to work good but man ya gotta also look cool. :hmm3grin2orange:
The tricker ya look just reassures the customer on why they hired ya.


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## 046 (Apr 1, 2009)

already use a Silky Gomtaro... what intrigues me about the fiskar saw is claims, it can be sharpen with a round file.


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## TimberMcPherson (Apr 1, 2009)

I have been using Gomtaros for 8 years, I have tried the ibuki and masuru and a few others but keep going back to the Gomtaro.


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## M.Green - SVTS (Apr 1, 2009)

ATH said:


> All handsaws I have seen are "pull saws" meaning they are designed to cut on the pull stroke only...



The sugoi that is pictured a few posts back is double bladed for a pull and forward thrust. The one that I have from HD looks similar too it as far as the blade goes. I can't tell how or if the sugoi with the yellow black casing is flimsy at all or the width of the steel it's made from.


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## pdqdl (Apr 1, 2009)

M.Green - SVTS said:


> Just out of curiosity with your saw that you displayed. It doesn't have a double edge meaning it can't cut with a forward thrust only a back.
> 
> I know it doesn't take all that long to cut a 3" branch with your handsaw but wouldn't you rather have a "double" edge so when you thrust forward you cut also?
> 
> I am not criticizing I am really asking the question. I use a double edge plastic handle handsaw I bought at HD and it works great. I've even gone as far as letting the groundman use it when he can't get odd limbs through the chipper. I am not big on letting other people use my chain saws. Plus I spent like 13.99$ on the handsaw so it wouldn't bother me if it broke but it's been a while and it's going strong.



Yes. It cuts only on the pull, but it excels at clearing chips.

The push stroke clears the cut and the saw of any chips. Saws that cut on the push stroke tend to bind in the cut and bend the blade. Most trimmers don't like being gentle in the cut to baby their saw and prevent bending it.

Bi-directional saws have a much greater tendency to gum up with sawdust in green wood or pine pitch, since both directions fill the teeth with more wood..

This particular saw has an offset on each tooth, so the kerf is wider than the saw. It feeds nicely back through the cut for the next stroke.


Raymond! Regarding looking cool: 

I'm such a handsome athletic fellow, I doubt if they are looking at my handsaw when they review my equipment.
:biggrinbounce2:


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## pdqdl (Apr 1, 2009)

046 said:


> already use a Silky Gomtaro... what intrigues me about the fiskar saw is claims, it can be sharpen with a round file.



Faster and easier than your 200t, using the same 5/32" file, almost the same technique as regular chain sharpening.

Look at the closeup picture posted above.


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## treemandan (Apr 1, 2009)

pdqdl said:


> Every time this topic comes up, I recommend the Fiskars handsaw that you can buy at Walmart. So far as I know, nobody here at AS has ever tried it out. I would put it up against any saw made.
> 
> Here is another thread on that topic. This will save a lot of people time in re-posting the same opinions. My post is #27
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=84233&highlight=fiskars



shop at walmart and DIE !


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## treemandan (Apr 1, 2009)

I used a handsaw in the tree yesterday, glad I wear knee-pads. It seems every angle you cut pulls the blade into you? So I said screw it, I like a sharp pole saw and keep the handsaw for... well, I will be dammed if I know what I keep that thing around for? maybe just to say I got one but she is old.


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## silk (Apr 1, 2009)

I use the Fanno - FI-1700 and keep it with me at all times when in the tree. This saw has held up very well to every day use. One solid pull is all that is often needed. The only thing is that I need to take care not to leave it wet after the day is done or I will have a rusty saw the next morning. 

I especially love the jobs where you are doing a pruning vs removal and can work in the tree without the noise or extra weight of a saw.


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## Ghillie (Apr 1, 2009)

pdqdl said:


> Granted, the Fiskars do seem a bit cheap, and they are not the lightest saw you can buy, either. They are probably a bit larger than folks like too. I can cut a 2"-3" branch with it faster than you can unsnap, use, and re-hang your chainsaw. Mine are about 5 years old, and cut as well as the day I bought them, mostly because they are so easy to sharpen.
> 
> But no other saw allows you to quickly sharpen it on the job; certainly not with the same round file you use on your trim saw. The tiny little triangular teeth found on most pruning saws will always gum up in pitchy wood; not so with the Fiskars.
> 
> ...



Just bought one. I'm going to try it out on a pine removal tomorrow morning. I've never used a handsaw in tree before.


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## pdqdl (Apr 1, 2009)

You will be desperately wishing for a scabbard for that. Without a scabbard, that bugger will be eating your legs up if you hang it from your belt. If not attached to your belt, you lose too much time hanging on to it.

I have a Buckingham scabbard that fits it nicely. The number stamped on it is 6222 C

Try it out on trimming. If you like it, get a good scabbard.


By the way: Where did you get it, and how much do they cost now?


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## ATH (Apr 1, 2009)

M.Green - SVTS said:


> The sugoi that is pictured a few posts back is double bladed for a pull and forward thrust. The one that I have from HD looks similar too it as far as the blade goes. I can't tell how or if the sugoi with the yellow black casing is flimsy at all or the width of the steel it's made from.


From Silky Saws site:
"SILKY saws cut as you pull the blade towards you. They do not cut on the forward or push stroke. Cutting on the pull stroke requires less energy and gives you more control over the action of the saw."


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## ATH (Apr 1, 2009)

pdqdl said:


> You will be desperately wishing for a scabbard for that. Without a scabbard, that bugger will be eating your legs up if you hang it from your belt......


$15 or $20 for the saw and another $20 for the scabbard? A $50 Silky suddenly sounds even better to me...

So, am I correct that we still don't have an opinion from somebody who has used (on the job) both a Silky and a Friskars? If this thread keeps up I just may go buy one for the fun of it! Ability to sharpen it would be nice...but the reality is I stink at sharpening anyhow!


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## pdqdl (Apr 1, 2009)

I just thought of something I should share, for you guys that don't use pruning saws. Get a nice, aggressive hand saw, and keep it in your trunk, behind the seat of your truck, wherever.

You will be surprised how often you need to cut one branch, prune a spot that you overlooked, demonstrate something to a customer...and there you are with no chainsaw.

Whip out your trusty hand saw and finish the job quickly. The gas never goes stale, and they never make a smelly mess in your vehicle. Unlike the best chainsaw made, they are always ready to go to work. Unless you let them rust up into uselessness.


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## tree md (Apr 1, 2009)

Man, I just couldn't imagine not carrying my handsaw in the tree. Actually I can, I have left it at the house and had to work without it. It saves so much energy and time . When you are trying to bypass small limbs you can just zip them off and go on up without having to unclip your lanyard on removals and eliminate having to take a chainsaw in the tree on small prunes. Anyone who has spent time trying to break a small limb out of the tree or eaten one while bypassing it will appreciate a handsaw. Quicker and easier than wearing the 200 all the way up.


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## Ghillie (Apr 1, 2009)

pdqdl said:


> You will be desperately wishing for a scabbard for that. Without a scabbard, that bugger will be eating your legs up if you hang it from your belt. If not attached to your belt, you lose too much time hanging on to it.
> 
> I have a Buckingham scabbard that fits it nicely. The number stamped on it is 6222 C
> 
> ...



Thanks for the scabbard number.

I got it a Menards (kinda like Lowe's) for $17.


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## Raymond (Apr 1, 2009)

Oh I'd be lost without mine. Every time I move to another location, I clear out a spot with it before I get in. Works good for reaching for a rope too sometimes. 

I've grinded the end blade round so I don't damage the ropes. With a little bit more of a hook. Works good for small hangers too but you guys knew that.


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## pdqdl (Apr 2, 2009)

Ghillie said:


> Thanks for the scabbard number.
> 
> I got it a Menards (kinda like Lowe's) for $17.



I think that's more than I paid five years ago. 

The Buckingham scabbard is a superior product. Exceedingly well made, it will cost much more than the saw. But then it will probably last 50 years. Rubberized fiber, kind of like leather only tougher, it has a hole at the tip for chips to fall through. You'll never hurt it except with a chainsaw.

The whole setup is a bit larger and heavier than most of the popular saws listed above, but it has greater reach and ease of cut on a larger branch. You should also have a tiny hand saw for tight pruning, like in a washington hawthorn, some crabapples.

Did you say you were doing a pine? Use the backside of the Fiskars like a machete to clear all the little dead sticks on the interior. Unless you are as burly as your Avatar, you're not likely to hurt it.


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## ntsarborist (Apr 2, 2009)

pdqdl said:


> Rubberized fiber, kind of like leather only tougher, it has a hole at the tip for chips to fall through



that slot on the bottom usually fills up with sawdust and occasinally need to clean it out so that saw will fit right. 

they are tough. mine is a couple years old and shows very little wear. what i do when i buy a new scabbord is cut a inch and half slit down the underside of the top of the pouch. makes a wider slot to put saw away. saw isnt any good when it misses the scabbord and falls to the ground.


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## randyg (Apr 2, 2009)

ATH said:


> I currently have the Sugoi, Silky Ibuki, Silky Gomtaro, and a Samurai (and a couple of folding saws that don't get used on 'real' jobs - just when talking with clients and showing them stuff on small trees).
> 
> The Sugoi is the one on my harness everytime. The Ibuki is nice, but heavier and has a wider kerf so more work. I won't call it a waste of money - but I would have been better off to buy another Sugoi instead. The others: it is nice to have smaller ones to reach into tighter spaces on occassion.
> 
> ...




Just called Sherrill and ordered 2 SUGOI's and mentioned I'd heard they price-match? Truth is, they price-match at 150%. 

Bottom Line: $74.25 plus shipping gets me 2 saws (and yes I asked if sheath came with each and she said YES?).

Now off to pick up a couple of those 5/32's round file sharpenable saws for the nasty dead wood jobs.

THANKS TONS for all the great input!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Ghillie (Apr 2, 2009)

randyg said:


> Just called Sherrill and ordered 2 SUGOI's and mentioned I'd heard they price-match? Truth is, they price-match at 150%.
> 
> Bottom Line: $74.25 plus shipping gets me 2 saws (and yes I asked if sheath came with each and she said YES?).
> 
> ...



Good deal 

Where did you find them on sale? Or can you say?



pdqdl said:


> Did you say you were doing a pine? Use the backside of the Fiskars like a machete to clear all the little dead sticks on the interior. Unless you are as burly as your Avatar, you're not likely to hurt it.



It worked great! Definately going to be with me more in tree.

Did you mean SURLY or BURLY?


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## Panama (Apr 2, 2009)

Ibuki, put loctite on the screws though, throw away the scabbard and use the Sugoi scabbard, on a pod mount. On the saw, put a small snap, on a small diameter short bungee, and a ring on the scabbard to stretch and snap it to, or it will get pulled out and fall. (my $.02)


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## pdqdl (Apr 2, 2009)

randyg said:


> Just called Sherrill and ordered 2 SUGOI's and mentioned I'd heard they price-match? Truth is, they price-match at 150%.
> 
> Bottom Line: $74.25 plus shipping gets me 2 saws (and yes I asked if sheath came with each and she said YES?).
> 
> ...



Soon you will be the ArboristSite expert on both varieties of hand saws. 

We expect some feedback on which saw you like best, and why!

BTW: the Fiskars has a very aggressive cut, and it will work you pulling it through dead wood. It is much better at green wood. The saws with the zillions of little teeth pull through the dead wood with less effort. I don't know which would cut quickest, probably the Fiskars.


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## ATH (Apr 2, 2009)

pdqdl said:


> ........it will work you pulling it through dead wood. It is much better at green wood.


The Silkys I have are not good in dead wood either. Anybody know a specific saw that does well in dead?


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## tree md (Apr 2, 2009)

ATH said:


> The Silkys I have are not good in dead wood either. Anybody know a specific saw that does well in dead?



Yup, MS200T.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Apr 2, 2009)

ATH said:


> The Silkys I have are not good in dead wood either. Anybody know a specific saw that does well in dead?



Huh? Mine work great in dead and green wood: oak or pine.


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## tree md (Apr 2, 2009)

Mine will cut dead wood OK but it takes a considerable amount more effort to cut a larger dead limb, say 2 1/2 inch or better. When I bow hunt I use a climbing tree stand and carry a Gerber limb saw with an aggressive blade a lot like the Silky's. Here we have a lot of scrubby Black Jack Oak that tends to have lots of dead branches low on the trunk. I often find a perfect ambush point in thick areas where the scrubby Black Jacks are the only trees to set up in. Trying to cut all of the lower dead branches to get high enough in the tree will work you to death but are usually well worth it once you get set up. My experience is that the green wood cuts a lot easier than the dead.


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## coolbrze (Apr 2, 2009)

pdqdl said:


> Every time this topic comes up, I recommend the Fiskars handsaw that you can buy at Walmart. So far as I know, nobody here at AS has ever tried it out. I would put it up against any saw made.
> 
> Here is another thread on that topic. This will save a lot of people time in re-posting the same opinions. My post is #27
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=84233&highlight=fiskars



I've used the fiskars handsaw & their pole pruner w/ saw blade. Both are good and work well for us. I think some of the Silkys are better quality though and haven't used some of the other top brands.


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## lync (Apr 10, 2009)

Take a hacksaw to the handle of the Sugoi and cut off the pinky finger rest. Since doing this I haven't had it pulled out of the scabbord by a branch or rope. Mine sits in a saw pod on my leg. Much easier to get in and out then on the belt. Its a great pruning set up. Call for the 020 when needed.


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## gitrdun_climbr (Apr 11, 2009)

lync said:


> Take a hacksaw to the handle of the Sugoi and cut off the pinky finger rest.



Not a bad idea!


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## Bermie (Apr 12, 2009)

I use a Zubat...like a third hand in the tree! 

My groundies all have a Zubat and a machete is always close at hand, sometimes that's all that's needed, a quick slice or chop and the job's done, saves fuel too!


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## dave_b_quick (Apr 13, 2009)

*homemade pruning saw*

Here's my homemade pruning saw, open and closed, next to my silky. 

I used a 17" snap-cut pole-saw blade and a branch off a silver maple tree for the handle, with a 1/4" truss-head machine-bolt and tee-nut for the pivot and a scrap of 1/8" bungee as a safety to make sure it stays closed when I'm climbing, and a piece of 1/8" poliester throw-line for a lanyard to hang it off my belt. The pivot bolt gives enough friction to keep it in the open position. The home-made saw cuts about as good as the silky, and gives me a little extra reach. A saw pod so I don't have to un-clip it from my belt might be an improvement.


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## pdqdl (Apr 13, 2009)

That looks like a dandy.

The teeth on that saw look like the Fiskars brand, but the saw blade has a different shape. 

Do you know what brand of saw blade that is in your homemade saw?


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## The Lawn Shark (Apr 13, 2009)

*Full report on Friday night*

Will use the zubat all day friday and give my reveiw...compared to the 20$Corona(bought from loews), but the scabbard for the corona cost 28$(weaver)....I have the Sugoi on order and will compare next monday


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## coolbrze (Apr 13, 2009)

The Lawn Shark said:


> Will use the zubat all day friday and give my reveiw...compared to the 20$Corona(bought from loews), but the scabbard for the corona cost 28$(weaver)....I have the Sugoi on order and will compare next monday



I have a 300mm Zubat and love it. IMO, it's the perfect mid-size handsaw. Am looking into getting a Sugoi, what size do you recommend, the 360mm (14 1/5" blade) or the 420mm (16 1/2" blade)?


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## Raymond (Apr 13, 2009)

The Lawn Shark said:


> Will use the zubat all day friday and give my reveiw...compared to the 20$Corona(bought from loews), but the scabbard for the corona cost 28$(weaver)....I have the Sugoi on order and will compare next monday


I have the same zubat handsaw. How I know it's a zubat is because you told me. 
Man I buy this crap and two days later I can't remember the name. Till coming here I never needed to know. It was just "my hand knife."

Like my brand new saddle I just bought a month ago. Hell I already forgot the name of it. It's now just called "my saddle."

LOL I just like to give the butthead something to work with. :hmm3grin2orange: 

But no I've had the zubat for about 3 years and it's still a good saw. The clip to hold it in, petered out pretty quick, just gotta keep an eye on it so I don't drop it on my help. They can get kinda pissy about that.


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## dave_b_quick (Apr 13, 2009)

*blade for custom climbing saw*

pdqdl, for my custom climbing saw I used a Gilmour Snap Cut 16" Pole Saw Blade, $9.80 from northeasternarborist.com, but you could probably use any pole saw blade you like. I mis-spoke earlier when I said it was a 17" blade.
-Dave


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## pdqdl (Apr 14, 2009)

What is the chance that is a Fiskars pole saw blade? They claim to have the patent on the teeth that can be sharpened with a round file, and your photo sure looks like that design.

Here is the fiskars pole saw blade; I didn't even know they made one.
http://lawn-and-garden.hardwarestor...ws-/fiskars-tree-pruner-saw-blade-155754.aspx

Click on the photo for a closer view of the teeth.


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## dave_b_quick (Apr 14, 2009)

*Gilmour snap-cut*

That fiskar would prolly work as long as it cuts and holds an edge. Here's the blade I used: 

http://onlinestore.forestindustry.com/scripts/ne_arborist/005452.html

-Dave


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## pdqdl (Apr 15, 2009)

Well...if you say so. Ok.

But the teeth in the picture you posted don't match the teeth in the picture of the advertisement.

They do match the "Woodzig" teeth in the Fiskars saw; hence, my original question.

Could you sharpen that saw with a 5/32 round file? If so, I suspect that you ordered one saw blade and got a different version delivered.

In fact, the picture you posted has a hole in the tip of the saw, yours doesn't. The small holes in the wide end are different, too. What the heck, it doesn't matter. It looks like your home made saw works fine, and I like the nice way you secured the thing from opening unexpectedly.


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## dave_b_quick (Apr 15, 2009)

*mystery blade*

Now you have me wondering. On closer inspection it's not quite like either of those blades. There are 5 holes in the butt end and none in the tip, and it doesn't look quite like any of those at northeastarborist.com or your fiskars. Maybe the gilmour blade is on my pole saw.


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## TreEmergencyB (Apr 15, 2009)

John Paul Sanborn said:


> I have a Zubat and a Sugoi, so I use the former for finer pruning and the latter for when there is bigger wood.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The make Silky Zubat pole saws now!!


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