# Husqvarna 162, 2x 266, 268 Frankensaw Project



## briantutt (Sep 22, 2015)

A good friend brought me four projects. A Husqvarna 162, 2 each 266 and a 268. At first glance they are very similar but once I got them apart I noticed some distinct differences. Case in point, the pistons. The top two pics are the 266, the third pic is the 162 (notice bottom of piston is way different and bore is smaller), last is the 268 (also has bottom of piston difference from 266). Started this thread to document my project and hopefully get answers to some questions and put info out there as I learn.


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## briantutt (Sep 22, 2015)

The 162 also has a metal gas tank. The anti vibe is slightly different, at least visually. The 162 has the best looking piston and cylinder so I will for sure rebuild that one but one of the 266 is roasted so I could use the plastic tank from that one the 162 I think. Does anyone know? Top ic is the plastic tank from 266, bottom pic is metal tank from 162. I haven't measuerd a bunch of stuff yet but all four saws are very similar in construction.


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## SawTroll (Sep 23, 2015)

Do you know the age of each saw - serial numbers?


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## briantutt (Sep 23, 2015)

Yep. All four still have their tags.
















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## raumati01 (Sep 23, 2015)

The 162 is likely to have a different clutch to the more modern saws, its a coarse thread. Looks like the 268 is a closed port, thats the one I would be rebuilding.


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## briantutt (Sep 23, 2015)

What does closed port mean. The pistons on the 162 and the 268 both have similar piston designs. 

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## briantutt (Sep 23, 2015)

The clutch side case is pretty screwed up on the 268 but I think I can use the case half from the roasted 266. I will have to measure some stuff but one of the two looks almost identical.

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## nenicu (Sep 23, 2015)

The 268 piston looks like my open port Gilardoni piston. The closed port piston should be windowed.


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## briantutt (Sep 23, 2015)

raumati01 said:


> The 162 is likely to have a different clutch to the more modern saws, its a coarse thread. Looks like the 268 is a closed port, thats the one I would be rebuilding.


The 162 and both 266 have a course clutch thread. 268 is fine pitch. Good call.

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## SawTroll (Sep 24, 2015)

briantutt said:


> Yep. All four still have their tags.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Nice!

As they left the factory:

- the 268 is from 1995 week 41, so a "plain" 268 (not xp) with an open port top end

- the top 266SE is from 1983

- next 266SE is from 1984 week 42 - this means that both 266SE supposedly had the smaller carb (15.9 mm venturi vs. 17.5 from some time in 1985)

- the 162SE likely is from before 1982. I don't know any reliable way to "decode" that number plate, however it looks like the crank bell in sight was dated 1979.

Of course you never know what has been changed at some point, with an older used saw....


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## briantutt (Sep 24, 2015)

Thanks SawTroll! These all came from one guy who has passed on. They were his saws on the farm. I think he just ran them till the quit and went and got another one. I don't think they have ever been tinkered with it of course you never know.

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## marti384 (Sep 24, 2015)

briantutt said:


> The clutch side case is pretty screwed up on the 268 but I think I can use the case half from the roasted 266. I will have to measure some stuff but one of the two looks almost identical.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


I did something similar 2 years ago, built a 266 from a box of parts. Be careful choosing your case halves, some of them have different hole locations for the top cover screws. My 266 top cover only has 2 of the 3 screws line up. I think a 268 top cover would have the opposite screw line up, but not sure. I wish I would have known to check for that, but it never occurred to me.


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## briantutt (Sep 24, 2015)

Plus 1. I will check that in a few minutes. These are the little things I am looking to catch before I deciding what parts can go where. I think I will make a matrix of what is bad on each saw and then carefully look at the donor parts. Then decided how many saws can be made from the 4.

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## briantutt (Sep 24, 2015)

You were right. The 268 case halves both have extra holes between the carb area and the jug. All the other ones do not have this. The other 3 cases also have a small hole under the carb that the 268 case does not have. Last difference is the 268 case is only machined about half way down the clutch side on top. The others go almost the whole length over the bar stud area.





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## burnses (Sep 24, 2015)

I just put a 162 top end on a 61 white top rancher 2 piece ignition and aftermarket 272 muffler...big thing w a good sized outlet hole toward the front right....It has coarse clutch threads....haven't run it yet but looing forward to it. The 162 is closed port the rancher was open w/smaller ports so could run well...


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## rburg (Sep 24, 2015)

There is some good video of Spike60 going over differences and similarities of some of these models on you tube that you might find helpful.


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## briantutt (Sep 29, 2015)

Case splitter is in the mail. Now I can move one with this project. I think I will get 2 saws easy reviewing the parts. Maybe 3 if I can make a case half work for the 268.

Brian


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## briantutt (Oct 2, 2015)

I was at my dad's cutting today and mentioned I was going to try to press the piston wrist pins out. He told me I should be able to just heat the top of the piston with the torch and the pins will push right out. Does that work?

Brian


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## David Young (Oct 2, 2015)

Yep. Most of the time..... Ha don't need heat


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## briantutt (Oct 25, 2015)

Not sure this is a new idea but now that I have a case splitter I realized it can be used to push the bearings off the crank. Just get the bearing splitter behind the bearing and then use the case splitter to push of the bearing splitter. Much faster than screwing around shimming behind the bearing splitter.


Brian


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## briantutt (Oct 25, 2015)

Not sure this is a new idea but now that I have a case splitter I realized it can be used to push the bearings off the crank. Just get the bearing splitter behind the bearing and then use the case splitter to push of the bearing splitter. Much faster than screwing around shimming behind the bearing splitter.



Brian


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## SawTroll (Oct 25, 2015)

marti384 said:


> I did something similar 2 years ago, built a 266 from a box of parts. Be careful choosing your case halves, some of them have different hole locations for the top cover screws. My 266 top cover only has 2 of the 3 screws line up. *I think a 268 top cover would have the opposite screw line up*, but not sure. I wish I would have known to check for that, but it never occurred to me.



At least a slightly different one, and there are more that are different on the decade+ newer saw (in addition to top end, intake and carb).

Look trough this Spike60/weimedog video: ttp://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/bobs-saw-college-and-over-view-of-the-husqvarna-272-class-and-jonsered-670-class-saws.247598/


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## briantutt (Nov 18, 2015)

Are all of the crank bearings the same? Can I just clean them all together and not worry what goes where? 

Brian


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## briantutt (Nov 18, 2015)

All the bearings mic within .001 so probably good there. On plus side I ultrasonic cleaned all the cranks and bearings feel nice. 

SawTroll there are dates on the cranks that help confirm the build dates.

1979 on the 162!














Brian


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## Marshy (Nov 18, 2015)

Brian, for what it's worth just replace the bearings. They are only good for so many turns before they fail. I'd hate to see a bearing fail shortly after rebuilding one. It's money well spent.


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## SawTroll (Nov 19, 2015)

briantutt said:


> All the bearings mic within .001 so probably good there. On plus side I ultrasonic cleaned all the cranks and bearings feel nice.
> 
> SawTroll there are dates on the cranks that help confirm the build dates.
> 
> ...


Adds up nicely with what the number plates told us, as far as I can see! 

On the two oldest saws, the crank dating actually tells more than the number plates told.


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## briantutt (Nov 20, 2015)

Marshy said:


> Brian, for what it's worth just replace the bearings. They are only good for so many turns before they fail. I'd hate to see a bearing fail shortly after rebuilding one. It's money well spent.


After ultrasonic cleaning I agree. I sprayed wd40 on them and spun. Feel small inconsistency in all of them.

Brian


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## pioneerguy600 (Nov 20, 2015)

briantutt said:


> Not sure this is a new idea but now that I have a case splitter I realized it can be used to push the bearings off the crank. Just get the bearing splitter behind the bearing and then use the case splitter to push of the bearing splitter. Much faster than screwing around shimming behind the bearing splitter.
> 
> 
> 
> Brian




Why would you want to , split your bearings....LOL... just pulling yer leg, good combination for pulling the bearings with the bearing separator and case splitter used as a team.


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## briantutt (Nov 20, 2015)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Why would you want to , split your bearings....LOL... just pulling yer leg, good combination for pulling the bearings with the bearing separator and case splitter used as a team.


Haha I guess I should have said bearing puller or separator! [emoji3] thanks for the needle!

Brian


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## Flat47 (Nov 21, 2015)

Cases changed when they went to the one piece coil - the holes for the top cover got moved in relation to the starter holes. Makes it tougher to fit a 268/272 muffler into a 266 case without some hammer mods to the muffler so it will clear the case bulge for the top cover screw.

On the 268 case pictured, the holes between the cylinder and carb are for the "black box" style air filter.


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## briantutt (Nov 21, 2015)

Flat47 said:


> Cases changed when they went to the one piece coil - the holes for the top cover got moved in relation to the starter holes. Makes it tougher to fit a 268/272 muffler into a 266 case without some hammer mods to the muffler so it will clear the case bulge for the top cover screw.
> 
> On the 268 case pictured, the holes between the cylinder and carb are for the "black box" style air filter.


Interesting, I noticed the coil side differences but if I use the right air filter maybe the roasted 266 clutch side case half would work for the 268. I will clean up the case halves then see what the 268 filter and cover look like on that scenario.

Brian


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## briantutt (Dec 1, 2015)

How do you get the kill switches out of the case? I feel like I am going to break them. It looks like they must just snap in somehow.

Brian


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## clintb (Dec 1, 2015)

briantutt said:


> How do you get the kill switches out of the case? I feel like I am going to break them. It looks like they must just snap in somehow.
> 
> Brian


They have little wings on each side, sometime they will just pop out, if not you'll have to hold them down on the inside.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-ON-OFF...792614?hash=item4170875926:g:TiUAAMXQHU1RsfHj


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## briantutt (Dec 1, 2015)

Thanks, do the wings move? Or do you just push and hope for the best.

Brian


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## clintb (Dec 2, 2015)

briantutt said:


> Thanks, do the wings move? Or do you just push and hope for the best.
> 
> Brian


I was wrong, I've been working on 372's. In one of your pictures it shows it having a screw holding in in.


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## briantutt (Dec 2, 2015)

clintb said:


> I was wrong, I've been working on 372's. In one of your pictures it shows it having a screw holding in in.


Correct the 268 has a screw but even with that removed it doesn't move.

Brian


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## briantutt (Dec 4, 2015)

The 162 piston and cylinder actually look almost unused. There is a rough spot that was exposed to the exhaust port that had some sort of white substance that an insect had deposited it there. What is the best way to clean it up? Sandpaper?






Brian


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## briantutt (Dec 18, 2015)

Can anyone answer why the 268 cylinder looks significantly different yet has a piston similar to one of the 266 pistons that doesn't have a cylinder like that? Can you intermix skirt vs no skirt?

Brian


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## briantutt (Dec 31, 2015)

Figured ut the piston confusion. My pictures in the above post are goofed up. The top left piston and the bottom right piston I mixed up. I still have the question about why the 268 cylinder porting looks so much different than the other three yet the 162 and 268 pistons both have no skirt at the bottom of the piston. It is also interesting that the 268 & 162 cylinders sort of tapers to a larger diameter along where the ports are where the 266 cylinders remain constant diameter all the way around full length of the bore. This must have something to do with the piston differences.


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## briantutt (Dec 31, 2015)

SawTroll said:


> At least a slightly different one, and there are more that are different on the decade+ newer saw (in addition to top end, intake and carb).
> 
> Look trough this Spike60/weimedog video: ttp://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/bobs-saw-college-and-over-view-of-the-husqvarna-272-class-and-jonsered-670-class-saws.247598/


 
Thanks for pointing this video out SawTroll! I just watched the whole thing, good thing I did. I am trying to decide what scrambled egg saws to make ou tof these four. I think the 268 I will just rebuild, based on the video it should have more power. Then I think the 162 top end will go on the smoked 266 case. If I have more than one good coild that will make the 162 SE run then I can use the good 266 SE piston and cylinder and get one 266 SE up and runng. On a side note, all three two piece ignitions look quite a bit different but I am sort of assuming they all interchange based on the mounting. I think all 3 have bad wires with insulation missing so I am a bit hopeful that if I replace the wires with new wire I will get two sets or possibly all three sets to work.


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## briantutt (Dec 31, 2015)

If you look close even the blue one has bad insulation right where the yellow wire sort if twists under the black shirting them together. Other two are far worse.

Brian


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## VA 372xp (Dec 31, 2015)

This husky talk area

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## rynosawr (Jan 1, 2016)

Just as a note on power....

I built a 162se up and reused the old but good bearings but installed new seals.... Got a good used piston from bplust and I cleaned the badly transfer infused cylinder to be perfect.

I did a base gasket delete and let me tell ya, that closed port saw rips!!!

I sold it to a local pro firewood cutter who test ran it next to a perfect Echo CS-680 when he was trying to decide which saw to buy from me. The husky 162 outran and outcut the echo by enough difference to tell, and he couldn't bog the husky. 

Anyways, not meaning to thread-jack, I am enjoying your build progress.


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## briantutt (Jan 1, 2016)

I have never done a gasket delete. I am a little nervous putting the 162 SE top end on the 266 SE case. Mostly the cranks look different so I am thinking to use the 162 crank in the 266 case just to make sure I don't goof the stroke up. 

I also think I might as well use the 266 carburetor and air filter system as well since it doesn't have the internal blockage from the case intake adaptor.


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## rynosawr (Jan 1, 2016)

Yeah, I just check the squish with some solder wire in 4 places by sticking it through the spark plug hole with the cylinder installed snug on the case with no sealant.

My 162se had .021 squish all around

The base gasket was .020 thick so it made a good difference. 

I sparingly used yamabond 4 for sealing the base of the cylinder.

Works great and really ups the compression and brings an old saw back to life.

I am at 6000 ft so I really needed some bump in compression.

As for cranks, the stroke is the same I believe on all of them from 162 up to a 272; only the bore gets bigger for increased displacement.


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## briantutt (Jan 1, 2016)

How did you clean the cylinder. I have to clean some transfer off the 268. I did this on my 65 with muriatic acid and a bunch of Q tips. Worked good but takes some patience!


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## rynosawr (Jan 1, 2016)

I used the mastermind method

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/how-to-remove-aluminum-transfer-without-acid.248325/



I would practice on some cylinders that are total junk first to get the hang of it.

I think I remember fixing the first cylinder I tried it on though!


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## VA 372xp (Jan 2, 2016)

Who is running husqvarna 450 and what best length bar

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## briantutt (Jan 2, 2016)

rynosawr said:


> I used the mastermind method
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/how-to-remove-aluminum-transfer-without-acid.248325/


 
Just ordered a piston kit from lil' red barn for the 268, now incredibly distracted reading the entire mastermind thread. Then I will figure out how to get a pole barn spike into my dremel collet. Thanks for the link!


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## briantutt (Jan 2, 2016)

Here is the intended target.






Brian


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## rynosawr (Jan 2, 2016)

I bet it will clean up


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## rynosawr (Jan 2, 2016)

By the way, you can use a hand drill and a wood dowel to hold the Emory cloth for an easy starter setup.

Slot the end just enough to allow 1/8 of an inch of your Emory cloth to hang over the end

Roll up about 18 inches of Emory cloth onto the end shaped like a cylinder...

Let it slap and softly go over the transfer with very light pressure, cutting off loaded up Emory cloth very often


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## briantutt (Jan 3, 2016)

I will try my corded drill it goes 2100 on high speed. I have some drill rod bar stock that is .280 diameter that I will use for the holder. I may even try permanently attaching a holder straight into the collet holder on one of my dremels. 266 cylinder has more issues but I am only going to make one 266 I think so if I screw it up no loss.










Brian


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## briantutt (Jan 3, 2016)

Getting closer my dad had rolls of emery cloth 3 different grits 120, 320 and one in between.





Brian


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## rynosawr (Jan 3, 2016)

That will work great!!


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## briantutt (Jan 9, 2016)

So I guess I should have took some measurements before it fully disassembled these. According to the service manuals there is a tool used to set the bearing location in the case half. The tool is around $50! Does anyone have a case split that could check the bearing location relative to the case with a caliper for me? Please!

The tool I don't have is below. I assume that lip sets the depth from the outside and you just set the bearing down from the inside. So all I need to know is either that lip height or bearing to case relative measurement on the inside.







Brian


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## marti384 (Jan 9, 2016)

Just put the bearings on the crank first, tight to the counterwieghts. Then put the crank with bearings on it in the flywheel side half first till the bearing bottoms in the case. Then put the clutch side half on. The bearings will be in the correct location when you are done. I usually use a toaster oven and freezer to heat or cool parts as nessecary so everything just slips together.


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## briantutt (Jan 9, 2016)

The issue there is no ledge in the case. If I do it this way won't the crank hit the case?

Brian


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## marti384 (Jan 9, 2016)

Does that have a seal holder that screws on the flywheel side?


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## briantutt (Jan 9, 2016)

Yes and then the oil pump on the other side.

Brian


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## marti384 (Jan 9, 2016)

I can't remember how I put my 266 together, but I know I never had to use special tools or measure anything. Maybe I just got lucky?


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## marti384 (Jan 9, 2016)

Pretty sure the bearings on those are supposed to be flush with the inside of the case.


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## briantutt (Jan 9, 2016)

I rewired all the coils, ready to go now, not sure they all work but at least the wires have insulation and can't short to anything. I soldered on new wires, shrink tubed the bare area. New spade ends I will wait to do until I feed the wire through the grommet on case.







Brian


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## briantutt (Jan 9, 2016)

Based on measurements I think flush on the inside seems correct. The bearings are all .433 wide. The witness marks in the cases run about .390 and the bearings have radiused edges of about .035 . So in that .390 witness range is pretty close when you take that radius into account.

Brian


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## briantutt (Jan 9, 2016)

All setup for the practice run of the Mastermind cylinder cleaning method. If the drill is too slow a coworker has a foredom grinder he said I could borrow. He said his will take up to 1/4 shafts. Commence sanding...






Brian


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## briantutt (Jan 10, 2016)

Well here is my practice run slash first attempt at the MasterMind method for transfer removal. I think I ruined it. I made 2 mistakes I think. (1) I shouldn't have went in with the course grit around 80, (2) I should have listened better to what I read in the MasterMind thread and stayed away from the edge of the port, more accuracy on just the transfer and less time.










Brian


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## briantutt (Jan 10, 2016)

Here is the 268 cylinder after being cleaned up. Do I need to go further?

IS:





WAS:





Brian


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 10, 2016)

briantutt said:


> Here is the 268 cylinder after being cleaned up. Do I need to go further?
> 
> IS:
> 
> ...


No. Outstanding!

I'm sending you all my cylinder clean up jobs from now on! LOL


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## briantutt (Jan 10, 2016)

Thanks Carl! I fugured I better quit while I was ahead.


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## rynosawr (Jan 10, 2016)

the 268 cylinder looks good!

did you do the final finsh with Red scotchbrite?


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## briantutt (Jan 10, 2016)

I used Norton 360 grit scuffing pad, that is what I could find Menards. I rinsed with some WD-40 then ran that pad.






Brian


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## briantutt (Jan 16, 2016)

So I made a mistake rebuilding the carbs. I pulled the Welch plugs and cleaned them all up with my ultrasonic cleaner. Went to pit the new kits in and realized Tillotson kits don't come with the tiny c shaped clip that holds the small filter screen in. I managed to find 1 by looking around where I popped out the Welch plugs but the other 3 got swept up. Walbro kits come with this similar ring so it didn't dawn on me the Tillotson kits don't. [emoji35] 






Brian


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## briantutt (Jan 20, 2016)

Two of the gas tank assemblies were nasty inside. Thinking about how to clean them I got the idea to put simple green and water in, then I dumped in a container of pellet gun pellets collecting dust. Shook it around a few time over a day and then rinsed. Worked great!















Brian


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## briantutt (Jan 20, 2016)

Also solved the bearing depth issue. First of all on the free table at church was a toaster oven. Second made a simple fixture to stop the bearing on the crank side at .020 protrusion. Worked great at 375 for 15 minutes, bearing in freezer.






Brian


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## rynosawr (Jan 20, 2016)

briantutt said:


> Two of the gas tank assemblies were nasty inside. Thinking about how to clean them I got the idea to put simple green and water in, then I dumped in a container of pellet gun pellets collecting dust. Shook it around a few time over a day and then rinsed. Worked great!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Great idea there!!!

I have a nasty old JRed that needs a good cleaning, I will try that


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## bigbadbob (Jan 20, 2016)

I use broken window glass, the stuff from a car side window, works real well on metal tanks to.
Project is looking good.
BBB


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## briantutt (Jan 20, 2016)

bigbadbob said:


> I use broken window glass, the stuff from a car side window, works real well on metal tanks to.
> Project is looking good.
> BBB


I bet that does work good. I used the pellets because they had some jagged edges. Glass even better.

Brian


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## briantutt (Jan 23, 2016)

So reading through the service manuals I have one of them says to put the piston ring down in the cylinder to check the gap. If it measures over 1 mm it is worn. The 162 is gap of around .088 but the 266 is over 1 mm for sure. Guess I need a ring for that one. 

Brian


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## briantutt (Jan 23, 2016)

marti384 said:


> Just put the bearings on the crank first, tight to the counterwieghts. Then put the crank with bearings on it in the flywheel side half first till the bearing bottoms in the case. Then put the clutch side half on. The bearings will be in the correct location when you are done. I usually use a toaster oven and freezer to heat or cool parts as nessecary so everything just slips together.


What do you set the oven at? The service manuals say 400 but I put the one 268 bearing in at 375 and it seemed like it affected the paint a little and I just experimented with the a junk half at 375 for 15 minutes and it really messed the paint up. Maybe 350? Curious if anyone has pointers.

Brian


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## marti384 (Jan 23, 2016)

I don't know what temp my little toaster oven gets up to, I just know that I turn the dial to 4 minutes, the timer dings, then it is warm enough. There is no temp control on it. 4 minutes on my toaster oven is just before the case half start to smoke, figured this out through trial and error.


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## marti384 (Jan 23, 2016)

I have also used a heat gun, aim it at one side, then when the part farthest away from the heat is too hot to touch it is ready. If it starts to smoke (assuming it was clean of oil and sawdust to start with, since they will smoke earlier than the paint), then the heat has been on that spot to long and move the gun to the opposite end of the case.


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## briantutt (Jan 23, 2016)

marti384 said:


> I don't know what temp my little toaster oven gets up to, I just know that I turn the dial to 4 minutes, the timer dings, then it is warm enough. There is no temp control on it. 4 minutes on my toaster oven is just before the case half start to smoke, figured this out through trial and error.


Maybe the smoke is the clue!

Brian


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## briantutt (Jan 29, 2016)

briantutt said:


> So reading through the service manuals I have one of them says to put the piston ring down in the cylinder to check the gap. If it measures over 1 mm it is worn. The 162 is gap of around .88mm but the 266 is over 1 mm for sure. Guess I need a ring for that one.
> 
> Brian


 
Quoting myself, good trick huh?

Need advice. For giggles I put the new ring in the recovered 268 cylinder. There is only about .009 inches if gap between ring ends. This makes me think I should replace the rings in both the 162 jug and the 266 since they measure literally 5x what that new ring does for gap. I have no experience here. The service manuals say 1mm max but that is .039 inches, almost 5x the new ring measurement with the new ring at .009 inches.


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## briantutt (Feb 10, 2016)

So I finally am to the point to mate some of the case halves. I do not have the tool for "pulling" the crank into the bearing/case. Bolts are to short. Is there a way to do it without the tool? Freeze the crank maybe?

Brian


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## briantutt (Feb 19, 2016)

briantutt said:


> So reading through the service manuals I have one of them says to put the piston ring down in the cylinder to check the gap. If it measures over 1 mm it is worn. The 162 is gap of around .088 but the 266 is over 1 mm for sure. Guess I need a ring for that one.
> 
> Brian



New 266 ring has .007 inch gap so wow, they must wear quite a lot. I HAD a new ring for the 162 but I was not paying attention and stuck it on the 266 piston which is 50mm not 48mm and then broke it trying to take it off (stupid mistake). 

Ordering a new one now.


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## Big Block (Feb 19, 2016)

@wolfman jake


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## briantutt (Feb 19, 2016)

Big Block said:


> @wolfman jake



I think I missed something! 

Brian


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## Big Block (Feb 22, 2016)

briantutt said:


> I think I missed something!
> 
> Brian



There is a lot of good info in this thread. He is involved in a project like this and needed some help with what parts fit what saw.


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## briantutt (Feb 23, 2016)

Solved the square hole round peg grommet problem on the 162 case. Drilled out to .900 now the round grommet I can find fits well.



Problem was I could not find the grommet for the rectangle slot it had.








Brian


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## briantutt (Feb 24, 2016)

About ready to mate case halves. The service manual refers to using grease on the gasket between the 2 halves. What kind do you guys use?

Brian


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## briantutt (Feb 28, 2016)

All bearings and cranks are set. I ordered some Hylomar blue to hold and seal the case gaskets just need it to arrive and one more gasket set.

Notice the middle 266 clutch side case. The chain catcher mounting area is an odd ball one. With the rounded top. Finally dug through ipls online and found part number is 501 53 11-01 but cannot find one. [emoji35] 

Brian


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## president (Feb 28, 2016)

My 162 is dual thin rings, werent they all the same?


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## briantutt (Feb 28, 2016)

apparently not, all four of these were single ring including the 162


----------



## briantutt (Mar 1, 2016)

Finally received the last gasket set from that large auction site. Seller and shipper in China. Notice bottom right corner....no wonder it took so long to get here.






Brian


----------



## 67L36Driver (Mar 1, 2016)

Cut the heads off some long 5mm screws for guide pins. Holds the gasket in position and avoid an Oops!


----------



## briantutt (Mar 4, 2016)

A friend helped me face the exhaust port and open the bolt threads from M5 to M6 on the 162 cylinder so I can use the bolts I have. Getting closer.

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Mar 5, 2016)

Got the 162 ring from the Greek today and the Hylomar, let the case mating begin!






Brian


----------



## briantutt (Mar 5, 2016)

Gap on the 162 is now .006 with the new ring. Much better!

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Mar 5, 2016)

Hylomar is on the 268, gasket is in place, that half going in the freezer. Plan to use heat gun to heat bearing on the other side in an hour and hopefully the 2 halves slip right together. 






Brian


----------



## briantutt (Mar 5, 2016)

268 is mated and torqued up. Is it normal for it to feel a little tight and this point? I can turn the crank but it doesn't just free spin. Is this normal?

Everything looks correct.






Brian


----------



## nenicu (Mar 5, 2016)

If you have the seals on thr crank rotates a little bit odd. Seals off it should rotate freely. Take a mallet and smack the crank a little it should free the krank. By the look of the last pic you should bang on the flyweel side.


----------



## briantutt (Mar 5, 2016)

nenicu said:


> If you have the seals on thr crank rotates a little bit odd. Seals off it should rotate freely. Take a mallet and smack the crank a little it should free the krank. By the look of the last pic you should bang on the flyweel side.


Thanks for the tip. That makes sense because I had to pull the last 1/8 inch together with the screws so it probably put some sideways tension on the crank side. Seals are not in so it should be free.

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Mar 6, 2016)

That worked perfect, 2 solid smacks with a rubber mallet and it turns nice and smooth. Thanks again for that tip nenicu!

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Mar 12, 2016)

Hylomar and gasket in place on the 266, going in the freezer now. Maybe I will get the 162 mated today as well. I got the last couple parts I needed to close these all up finally.

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Mar 12, 2016)

162 is prepped now too. Finally feels like I am getting somewhere!

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Mar 12, 2016)

268, 266, 162 all mated. Need to apply the mallet trick to the 162 yet but making headway. Too nice outside 62 and sunny so seals and pistons can wait.[emoji57] 







Brian


----------



## briantutt (Mar 12, 2016)

Darn it! [emoji35] the bearing moved in the clutch side when I pushed these together. Weird thing is of all 3 of them that one slipped closest together before using the bolts. Maybe I got the bearing too hot? After the mallet smacking it rotates but not freely, feels like a detent in it. That is when I noticed the bearing gap and it had moved.






Brian


----------



## briantutt (Mar 17, 2016)

Yep, pushed the 162 apart and I managed to ruin the clutch side bearing. I either heated to the point of warping it or somehow had a misalignment maybe and bent the cage?

Brian


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## briantutt (Mar 19, 2016)

Installed the crank seals and oil pumps into the 268 and 266. Still waiting for the new bearing to come to catch the 162 up. The Hylomar let that gasket on the 162 free with ease so that is pretty slick I can use it again. Next step will be the pistons & cylinders.

Still wish I new a better way to mate the case halves without having to use the screws to pull the bearing on.

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Mar 20, 2016)

One of the 266 air filters had a few areas where only the course part of the element existed. I used some RTV to carefully plug it up. Saw that trick on a different thread.






Brian


----------



## briantutt (Mar 25, 2016)

New bearings arrived. Installed one in the clutch side of the 162 and hylomar on the gasket and it is set. Will mate in the AM, hopefully it goes better this time.

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Mar 26, 2016)

[emoji35] This is getting frustrating. Bearing moved again. I am going to try putting the bearing on the crank first and see what happens. [emoji35] 

Brian


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## briantutt (Mar 26, 2016)

Putting the bearing on first worked great. Finally have all 3 to the same point. Pistons installed, cylinders mounted. Note to self and others. When putting the oil pump on don't forget to put in the oil pick up tube first and make sure the tiny rubber gasket is on the oiler. Notice the orange gasket that tiny little black one next to the oiler it the one I mean, easy to miss and one stayed on the crank case when the oiler was removed.









Brian


----------



## marti384 (Mar 26, 2016)

And also remember a new big o ring to seal the oiler to the case so there are no air leaks.


----------



## briantutt (Mar 26, 2016)

marti384 said:


> And also remember a new big o ring to seal the oiler to the case so there are no air leaks.


+1 I did do that but even forgot to put one on, noticed the bag with an o-ring in it and had a duh! moment.

Brian


----------



## sixcylinder1 (Mar 26, 2016)

I always put the bearings on the crank first and then put the flywheel side in the case then bolt the other side on, With the use of the freezer and heat. Nice saws by the way!!!


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## briantutt (Mar 27, 2016)

sixcylinder1 said:


> I always put the bearings on the crank first and then put the flywheel side in the case then bolt the other side on, With the use of the freezer and heat. Nice saws by the way!!!


I am a slow learner! This method is better.

Brian


----------



## albert (Mar 27, 2016)

Still wish I new a better way to mate the case halves without having to use the screws to pull the bearing on.

Brian[/QUOTE]
Use thin wall tubing or something similar as a spacer over the crank to sit on the inner race of the bearing. Then use a clutch spider to tighten and pull the clutch side crank thru the bearing. You can add washers as needed as the crank comes thru. Same on the flywheel side with a nut. No stress on case or bearing.


----------



## briantutt (Mar 27, 2016)

albert said:


> Use thin wall tubing or something similar as a spacer over the crank to sit on the inner race of the bearing. Then use a clutch spider to tighten and pull the clutch side crank thru the bearing. You can add washers as needed as the crank comes thru. Same on the flywheel side with a nut. No stress on case or bearing.



Do you have a picture of this method? 

Brian


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## briantutt (Mar 30, 2016)

Does anyone have a parts saw laying around that could part with the top grommet shown in this photo? I have been watching the bay for weeks. It is the grommet the fuel line comes through on husky 162, 266.






Brian

Brian


----------



## pioneerguy600 (Mar 30, 2016)

No need to pull case halves together with bolts,

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/installing-crank-bearings-using-heat.131284/


----------



## briantutt (Mar 30, 2016)

pioneerguy600 said:


> No need to pull case halves together with bolts,
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/installing-crank-bearings-using-heat.131284/


Thanks for that. How big is the brass hammer you use? I was using a rubber mallet with limited success.

Brian


----------



## pioneerguy600 (Mar 31, 2016)

Mine is one I turned on the lathe, probably 8 - 10 oz. It takes a sharp rap rather than a heavy swing and hit.


----------



## briantutt (Mar 31, 2016)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Mine is one I turned on the lathe, probably 8 - 10 oz. It takes a sharp rap rather than a heavy swing and hit.


Thank you sir!

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Mar 31, 2016)

So I go to Menards for a brass hammer. They have about 50 different hammers for sale not a single brass one...

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Mar 31, 2016)

No dice at the local hardware hank either. Probably 50 different hammers, no brass ones. Oh well eBay it is.

Brian


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## sixcylinder1 (Mar 31, 2016)

briantutt said:


> No dice at the local hardware hank either. Probably 50 different hammers, no brass ones. Oh well eBay it is.
> 
> Brian


Heres a nice little hammer set. 
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=121731104079&alt=web


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## briantutt (Mar 31, 2016)

Grizzly H6320 12 oz. Dead Blow Hammer, Brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007D2D50/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_UyA.wb0WECYV0

I might get this one, here by Saturday for $15

Brian


----------



## sixcylinder1 (Mar 31, 2016)

briantutt said:


> Grizzly H6320 12 oz. Dead Blow Hammer, Brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007D2D50/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_UyA.wb0WECYV0
> 
> I might get this one, here by Saturday for $15
> 
> Brian


Looks like a good buy! Go for it!


----------



## briantutt (Mar 31, 2016)

TEKTON 30903 Jacketed Fiberglass Brass Hammer, 16-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U1F0JXM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_LTA.wbDAJ8MGW


or maybe this one, it's a little bigger, oh the choices. Maybe 16 ounces is too big and the 12 is good.

Brian


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## sixcylinder1 (Mar 31, 2016)

I use these little ones that i made back in machine class in highschool....... and never know when ya need the 3 pounder lol.


----------



## briantutt (Mar 31, 2016)

Internal debate over, went with the 12 ounce. I will start mating the tanks, carbs, coils etc tonight. Once I get the hammer I can do flywheel stuff.

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Apr 1, 2016)

briantutt said:


> I rewired all the coils, ready to go now, not sure they all work but at least the wires have insulation and can't short to anything. I soldered on new wires, shrink tubed the bare area. New spade ends I will wait to do until I feed the wire through the grommet on case.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Coil question. Do you think that these parts are all interchangeable? Meaning can I use any small part with the spark plug wire with any of the parts that interact with the flywheel magnet? I have no experience with the two piece ignition system. My system design experience gut feeling is they almost have to be interchangeable and just switched the look and feel as they made cost reductions and moved suppliers.

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Apr 1, 2016)

briantutt said:


>



The other needed picture showing the spark plug sides.

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Apr 2, 2016)

Amazon is creepy fast.





Brian


----------



## sixcylinder1 (Apr 2, 2016)

briantutt said:


> Amazon is creepy fast.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice man! I know they are! I had signed up for prime last month and ordered a few things and all my stuff was here in 2 days guarenteed!


----------



## briantutt (Apr 3, 2016)

Little brass hammer worked great, all 3 saws no spin nicely. Made a little headway on the 268 and put the tank on the 162. I may have to pull the muffler off the 268 because the 2 screw deflector I took off another muffler has the 2 screw holes in the wrong place.









Too nice out so I will resume later. 

Brian


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## briantutt (Apr 6, 2016)

marti384 said:


> Just put the bearings on the crank first, tight to the counterwieghts. Then put the crank with bearings on it in the flywheel side half first till the bearing bottoms in the case. Then put the clutch side half on. The bearings will be in the correct location when you are done. I usually use a toaster oven and freezer to heat or cool parts as nessecary so everything just slips together.


I should have listened to you. This method is what finally worked on the last of the 3.

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Apr 6, 2016)

What the heck, I installed the kill switch on the 268 which can only go in one way unlike the older saws. The writing is upside down? Am I missing something here? I can't imagine it would leave the factory like that.

Brian


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## sixcylinder1 (Apr 6, 2016)

Okay but does this method work with the 266 because they dont have anything to bottom out on unless you have the plastic seal flange on. But you wouldnt want that off when heating the case half..? Just wondering. Thanks!


briantutt said:


> I should have listened to you. This method is what finally worked on the last of the 3.
> 
> Brian


----------



## briantutt (Apr 6, 2016)

sixcylinder1 said:


> Okay but does this method work with the 266 because they dont have anything to bottom out on unless you have the plastic seal flange on. But you wouldnt want that off when heating the case half..? Just wondering. Thanks!


Yes, the crank has a natural stop and when all together it looks right and it spins freely after the brass hammer tap. It was the 266 I was fighting.

Brian


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## sixcylinder1 (Apr 6, 2016)

briantutt said:


> Yes, the crank has a natural stop and when all together it looks right and it spins freely after the brass hammer tap. It was the 266 I was fighting.
> 
> Brian


Yeah I had the same issue.... took a few trys but I got it.


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## briantutt (Apr 8, 2016)

Power switch questions. The switch on the right is the 268 switch, figured out how to correct it. However, looking at the other three one has two spade connections but all three saws were set up with just one wire coming up from the coil. Why the two terminals?

Brian


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## sixcylinder1 (Apr 8, 2016)

briantutt said:


> Power switch questions. The switch on the right is the 268 switch, figured out how to correct it. However, looking at the other three one has two spade connections but all three saws were set up with just one wire coming up from the coil. Why the two terminals?
> 
> Brian


Probably for another source of grounding the switch.


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## briantutt (Apr 8, 2016)

sixcylinder1 said:


> Probably for another source of grounding the switch.


I agree but then I started thinking why don't all three have it? The 268 is clearly screwed to the metal with that tab for that reason, positive ground to case.

Brian


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## 67L36Driver (Apr 8, 2016)

sixcylinder1 said:


> Probably for another source of grounding the switch.


As in plastic saw applications.

Just add a pigtail to a convient screw.


----------



## sixcylinder1 (Apr 8, 2016)

Would the other ones maybe be grounded on the metal clips that hold them in, unlike the 268 switch has plastic clips.?


----------



## briantutt (Apr 8, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> As in plastic saw applications.
> 
> Just add a pigtail to a convient screw.


Upon further inspection they all have two terminals it's just that two of them also hold the switch in.






Brian


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## briantutt (Apr 8, 2016)

Now I really have a mystery. When these came to me, none of them had a wire connected to the second terminal[emoji53] 

Brian


----------



## 67L36Driver (Apr 9, 2016)

briantutt said:


> Now I really have a mystery. When these came to me, none of them had a wire connected to the second terminal[emoji53]
> 
> Brian


Because the saw is a metal body and the switch grounds at the mounting hole?

Since the AV bushings isolate the handle from the crankcase, it would be a good move to add a jumper wire from handle to crankcase. JM .02


----------



## briantutt (Apr 9, 2016)

Well I am still missing some little odds and ends pieces to button these all the way up but I just confirmed all 3 have spark! My coil wire replacement job must have worked. I also confirmed the switches do not need a second wire. The copper pieces on the side of the switch make enough contact with the case.

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Apr 10, 2016)

Rebuilt the 268 carb and ready to install it. However the idle adjuster seems too easy to turn. Turn to the IPL and see there is something called the "speed screw ret ball" in the same hole or the oddly intersecting hole parallel to the idle adjuster? Anyone familiar with this? 









Brian


----------



## 67L36Driver (Apr 10, 2016)

briantutt said:


> Rebuilt the 268 carb and ready to install it. However the idle adjuster seems too easy to turn. Turn to the IPL and see there is something called the "speed screw ret ball" in the same hole or the oddly intersecting hole parallel to the idle adjuster? Anyone familiar with this?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Once you get the idle where you want it, use the wife's hot glue gun in the hole.

BTDT on a saw the idle screw kept jumping ship.


----------



## briantutt (Apr 13, 2016)

The 162/266 frankensaw has a case issue where the chain catch goes. Note the oblong hole from wear. My solution is to make this fender washer fit behind the plastic catcher since the original metal one with rounded top is unobtainium. Should work to let the washer take the beating not the soft case.

Brian


----------



## smokey7 (Apr 14, 2016)

I really enjoy you dulling these up. They are my favorites to build and run. I did a few frankin saws but with the jonny 625 630 670 saws blended with the huskys


----------



## briantutt (Apr 14, 2016)

As I tinker along waiting for the last but if odds and ends I noticed something. I had ran both wires from the coil in the lower trench and then the long one up and past the other part of the ignition. Then I noticed the plastic cover that goes over the flywheel has two clips on the top. I rerouted the kill switch wire as shown. This seems better, less wires in the second coil area, easier fit.

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Apr 14, 2016)

Here is the way the other one is routed. Which seems best or correct?

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Apr 14, 2016)

Also, for this carb bolt just go ahead and get yourself a set of ball end Allen wrenches. I made a stubby one to clear the case but you can quite get the last 1/4 turn done because there is less than 1/4 of movement between the case and the air filter duct. Ball end Allen and no issues. And don't forget the rubber gasket that goes around the plastic cylinder intake coupler or you get to mess with this twice [emoji6] 

Brian


----------



## Cantdog (Apr 14, 2016)

briantutt said:


> Now I really have a mystery. When these came to me, none of them had a wire connected to the second terminal[emoji53]
> 
> Brian



Brian.....the second terminal on these switches is where the heated handle system gets it's ground......the second wire runs directly to the heated handle switch......if you don't have heated handles it is not needed/used.


----------



## briantutt (Apr 14, 2016)

Cantdog said:


> Brian.....the second terminal on these switches is where the heated handle system gets it's ground......the second wire runs directly to the heated handle switch......if you don't have heated handles it is not needed/used.


Got it, mystery solved! Thanks!

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Apr 14, 2016)

Darn it! I am in the home stretch on the 268 and I go to mount the little tab holder on the intake duct (bottom right of picture). Threads are stripped. I will have to bump up to 5mm without putting a hole in the plastic tank below or think of a different plan.

Brian


----------



## 67L36Driver (Apr 14, 2016)

Slip a swatch of sheet steel in to protect the tank then, drill away.


----------



## briantutt (Apr 14, 2016)

Good idea, I can do it on the drill press too for better control.

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Apr 14, 2016)

Parts wise I am basically down to a muffler war. The side deflector piece seems unobtainium. In this picture you see in the back the 268 best muffler mounted. The side deflector is missing. In the foreground you see the other 268 muffler with a different single screw deflector bit notice the crack around one of the mounts. Part of me wants to either braze the crack or pipe the good one as seen in the picture below. As far as the two middle 266 smaller mufflers go one has a deflector but it has holes in it but based on the chain brake that will be okay I think. For the second 266/162 muffler I need to close the side hole I think and pipe it? Opinions please.












Brian


----------



## briantutt (Apr 14, 2016)

Better picture of the crack.

Brian


----------



## Cantdog (Apr 15, 2016)

Look here Brian...

http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1600

http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1251


----------



## briantutt (Apr 15, 2016)

Cantdog said:


> Look here Brian...
> 
> http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1600
> 
> http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1251



Thanks Robin!

On the top link this likely solves the 268 deflector issue since the exit hole is in the back half of the muffler. I am torn, I can get the whole entire pipe style new from that evil auction site for $10 total.

The smaller 162 & 266 muffler is a whole different story. Even complete new mufflers are super expensive. The second link looks like the deflector that should be on the 268 muffler I showed mounted to the saw (holes on the center line) except the bend seems on the top part not the bottom? Maybe I am just looking at the picture goofy.

The smaller mufflers need offset hole pattern and bend on the bottom. Odd to me that 3 out of the 4 of them I have are missing the deflector? why???






Brian


----------



## briantutt (Apr 15, 2016)

The image is problematic for the 266 muffler assy as well. The mounting bracket is either on upside down or somehow the image is like looking throught the backside of a mirror.

http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1590


----------



## briantutt (Apr 15, 2016)

I also need to go after what I believe to be the 162 cover. I traced the area where it engages the rubber seal on the intake. Comparing it to the 266 there is clearly more plastic. I deduced it down to this after removing air filter and spark plug boot trying to figure out why the one top cover had interference. Obviously that rubber seal or plastic intake or both used to be different way back in the 162 days.

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Apr 15, 2016)

Also found a fuel line grommet that will work on the 162 when cleaning up the aftermath. Took some finesse to get it in after the fact but it's in.






Brian


----------



## 67L36Driver (Apr 15, 2016)

The aftermarket muffler with the round spigot exit is the way to go on them.

I've used two on 630 & 670 J-reds. Solves the deflector problem.

Why the deflectors always seem to be missing? IDK


----------



## Cantdog (Apr 15, 2016)

They fall off.........then the holes get stripped......that's why they went to the permanent ones on the later saws.


----------



## briantutt (Apr 16, 2016)

I got the washer for the chain catcher turned down today. Also sand blasted the 162 and 266 muffler parts. I think I am going to buy the $10 268 muffler with the pipe then try my hand at brazing the other two shut and put in the pipe. I haven't brazed for a long time!

Brian


----------



## 67L36Driver (Apr 17, 2016)

1963 freshman M.E. majors had to take welding and machine shop courses at Rolla. That's where I learned to gas weld. Didn't hurt that I had my dad's tanks at home to practice.


----------



## briantutt (Apr 17, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> 1963 freshman M.E. majors had to take welding and machine shop courses at Rolla. That's where I learned to gas weld. Didn't hurt that I had my dad's tanks at home to practice.


I learned at home. My dad taught me. I built a drum rack for my garage band out 1-1/4 electrical conduit. Brazed all the corners so it could be easily taken apart with just the conduit couplers. Thing lasted for 20 years, went all over the place. Quite strong.

Brian


----------



## Big_Wood (Apr 17, 2016)

briantutt said:


> Good idea, I can do it on the drill press too for better control.
> 
> Brian



the tap will self feed into mag without any drilling for the next size up. that's how i fix them in camp. would suck to have to pack a drill into camp lol just got an attachment for my t handle and stripped threads take 2 min the repair.


----------



## briantutt (Apr 17, 2016)

westcoaster90 said:


> the tap will self feed into mag without any drilling for the next size up. that's how i fix them in camp. would suck to have to pack a drill into camp lol just got an attachment for my t handle and stripped threads take 2 min the repair.


Interesting, I have a tap on the way I can try that method first.

Brian


----------



## sixcylinder1 (Apr 26, 2016)

briantutt said:


> Also found a fuel line grommet that will work on the 162 when cleaning up the aftermath. Took some finesse to get it in after the fact but it's in.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Where did you find the gromets at? Im looking for somthing like this for a few saws I am doing. Thank you!!


----------



## briantutt (Apr 26, 2016)

sixcylinder1 said:


> Where did you find the gromets at? Im looking for somthing like this for a few saws I am doing. Thank you!!


It was just from one of the 5 crank side cases I took apart. I have had zero success finding one online.

Brian


----------



## 67L36Driver (Apr 26, 2016)

Rubber grommets are found in the yellow flip top bin boxes at your local Ace hardware store in the ELECTRICAL department. Look for the table lamp parts.

Lowes or Menards may also have such stuff.


----------



## briantutt (Apr 27, 2016)

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160427/f6b437c4ec20c4ff52125be8062bd109.jpg[/IMG

Got my knock off muffler today. Came in a Farmertec branded bag like the bar nuts did. Pipe is smaller than I imagined it would be. Don't you want a cross section area bigger than exhaust port in the cylinder? There is no baffle plate or anything inside.

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Apr 27, 2016)

Now I will pipe the 162 and 266 mufflers in similar fashion using 1/2 electrical conduit or this chunk of closet maid clothes hanger pipe which is slightly larger.





Brian


----------



## briantutt (Apr 27, 2016)

Does anyone know of a good thread on the muffler pipe addition?

Brian


----------



## sixcylinder1 (Apr 29, 2016)

Brian, I had bought a few of these FarmerTec mufflers. On one, I put another port on the other side making it a dual port- Performs well and sounds good  - HERES SOME PICS -


----------



## briantutt (Apr 29, 2016)

sixcylinder1 said:


> Brian, I had bought a few of these FarmerTec mufflers. On one, I put another port on the other side making it a dual port- Performs well and sounds good  - HERES SOME PICS -


How did you get it open? I see you have the muffler in half.

Brian


----------



## briantutt (Apr 30, 2016)

Got the mufflers piped today. My brazing doesn't look that great but once I paint them it will look good enough.

Brian


----------



## briantutt (May 1, 2016)

Looking better now!

Brian


----------



## SawTroll (May 4, 2016)

Here is another thread, about some of the same topics (mainly the cranks): http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/husky-266-crank.296561/#post-5845682


----------



## briantutt (May 6, 2016)

westcoaster90 said:


> the tap will self feed into mag without any drilling for the next size up. that's how i fix them in camp. would suck to have to pack a drill into camp lol just got an attachment for my t handle and stripped threads take 2 min the repair.


+1 on the tapping without needing to drill. Worked great. I found another stripped thread when putting on the 162 muffler. Tapped it to M6 and the 268 issue I originally brought up M5. Only issue is the shavings in the oil tank but I will vacuum them out with the goofy attachment my wife has for cleaning the dryer. "Lint lizard " or something like that.












Brian


----------



## briantutt (May 6, 2016)

I had to tape on some smaller and smaller tubing to maneuver in the oil tank but I got the magnesium particles out.





Brian


----------



## briantutt (May 8, 2016)

Side note:

Since all four of the frankensaw projects had no clutch covers when I got them I had to buy new ones. I knew this going in. So I took a chance and bought one for 25 bucks from China. It seemed legit so I now have 3. Here is the side note. When I received them the flag was not assembled. This allowed me to figure out how to fix the chain brake on my little Husqvarna 41. It had been taken apart by the previous owner and I couldn't for the life of me figure it out.





The trick is to put the weird shaped spring up into that flag then put the pin in with the e-clip. Next put the brake band and spring in place and arm the mechanism (sort of tricky without the flag). Now the flag assembly easily slides into place and the two piece bushing and screw go right into place. Works perfect now.[emoji3] 

Brian


----------



## briantutt (May 10, 2016)

I have all the parts now to button these 3 saws up and head for the gas can. I have an advice question on the large thin metal washer that goes between the plastic dust skirt and the case over the oil gear. The 162 has a lot of wear where the od of the washer is guided. The 268 picture you can see has a very defined lip, washer is retained nicely. I am concerned that the metal washer will go off center. Should I be?





162





162





268

Brian


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## 67L36Driver (May 10, 2016)

FWIW, I'd put a plastic 'washer' in there.
Or do without that metal one.


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## briantutt (May 10, 2016)

I have to widen a hole on the 268 muffler support bracket to match the knock off muffler alignment and shape the plastic cover internally on the 162 cover to match the 266 profile around the intake but these guys will get gas in a day or two and we will see how I did!
















Brian

Brian


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## briantutt (May 11, 2016)

I think I will bite the bullet and make one good oiler out of 2. I just need a new crank seal to do so. In the mean time I might go back to the one piece solid rim setup until I have the new seal. That way I can try to run the saw and shouldn't ruin anything.






Brian


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## smokey7 (May 11, 2016)

Keep a eye on that o ring when you swap pumps out. I will reuse them just check them over closely.


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## briantutt (May 11, 2016)

smokey7 said:


> Keep a eye on that o ring when you swap pumps out. I will reuse them just check them over closely.


Good point. The o-rings are all new. Maybe I won't run it until I swap the oiler so the o-ring is still in new condition and won't see heat until it is in its final setup.

Brian


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## briantutt (May 11, 2016)

Another aside. I cleaned the top covers and they all looked very faded and you could see the fiberglass in the plastic. I sprayed them down with WD-40 and they look a lot better, more even and not so dull. The 268 cover I sprayed about a week ago, the other 2 yesterday so it seems to stay in there.

Brian


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## briantutt (May 12, 2016)

266 complete, ready for fuel:












Brian


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## marti384 (May 12, 2016)

Looking good.


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## briantutt (May 12, 2016)

The 266 is first out of the gate! Took 4 or 5 pulls for her to pop off. Then a few minutes of getting the needles close. I am sure she isn't tuned perfect yet but she made a few cuts. Sounds good too! Not bad for a 1983 saw. Not exactly like verticle landing a rocket on a floating platform but feels good to bring it to life.

Brian


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## briantutt (May 13, 2016)

268 also now ready for fuel.















Brian


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## briantutt (May 13, 2016)

Yes! 6 pulls and the 268 was off to the races. I didn't even touch the needles yet, just turned down the idle. Burned right through about a 16 inch round. I will leave these set rich for awhile then lean them out for power after an hour or so of time on them.



Brian


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## SawTroll (May 13, 2016)

It is a bit sad that you had to use Chinese aftermarket clutch covers and chain brakes though - so getting some original working ones is your next project!


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## briantutt (May 13, 2016)

SawTroll said:


> It is a bit sad that you had to use Chinese aftermarket clutch covers and chain brakes though - so getting some original working ones is your next project!


Plus 1 there. Even on feebay they are hard to find, always missing the flag.


Brian


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## briantutt (May 15, 2016)

Okay these saws are awesome! Both cut like crazy!






Brian


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## smokey7 (May 16, 2016)

I sure love my 630. It's the best most durable saw I have used. I don't care for new high tech stuff, this saw is right up my alley with good power and good av.


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## briantutt (May 17, 2016)

I have a suspicion that the top cover currently on the 162/266 frankensaw is from neither a 162 or a 266. It has a lot of interference between the spark plug wire. Also the clearance above the muffler is very small and the back edge does not align nice a clean like the 266 and 268 covers. Top 3 pics are the frankensaw in question bottom 2 are the perfect fit 266.


















Brian


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## 67L36Driver (May 17, 2016)

That's going to melt I bet.


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## briantutt (May 17, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> That's going to melt I bet.


That's my thought too. I think I need to be on the hunt for a proper 266 cover. I have a search on the evilbay but no hits.

Brian


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## briantutt (May 18, 2016)

Dang, once I get the 162 in this lineup I won't need to even switch brands when I go cutting for the day!

Brian


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## briantutt (May 18, 2016)

I think I will also take the melted 266 cover and use the dremel to cut away the melted part in the same fashion as my 362XP top cover. Follow the angle of the brake and handle.






Brian


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## briantutt (May 18, 2016)

The pencil lines show the idea.









Brian


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## briantutt (May 20, 2016)

I dremeled the top cover down almost to the pencil mark. Interesting how that complex shape appears to actually be all in one plane. I certainly didn't do it on purpose.












Brian


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## marti384 (May 20, 2016)

Looks good, you have enough room to do a top outlet like on some of the 3xx series for a dp muffler now if you wanted to.


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## albert (May 20, 2016)

I think the problem is the wrong muffler/cover combination. There are mufflers that are a bit smaller that were used with that type cover. I think the older saws has the small muflers. Cutting the cover back may be hot on the fingers gripping the top handle.


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## briantutt (May 20, 2016)

albert said:


> I think the problem is the wrong muffler/cover combination. There are mufflers that are a bit smaller that were used with that type cover. I think the older saws has the small muflers. Cutting the cover back may be hot on the fingers gripping the top handle.


Well for sure the 266 and the 162 have smaller mufflers than the 268. I think the guy that had these put a 268 size muffler under the 266 cover and melted it. You are probably right that even a smaller muffler matches that cover with the vents. I hear you on the heat, the 362XP I patterned the cut after has the heat blocked by a different style chain brake flag. If it gets too hot on my hand I will just use it in cold weather but hopefully I will come across a full cover since this one is cracked anyway.

Brian


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## briantutt (May 20, 2016)

With the exception of that cover now the 162 is ready for fuel because I got the good oil pump back together with a new seal and it is installed. I will try to start her up in a couple hours!

Brian


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## briantutt (May 20, 2016)

I used these tiny little carbide dremel bits to bring the plastic right to the pencil line. As soon as the plastic absorbs a little more of the WD-40 I am fueling her up.

Brian


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## briantutt (May 20, 2016)

Number 3 is alive! I don't quite have the needles right yet because it dies if I clamp the throttle but it idles and winds up nice! The 162/266 frankensaw will live to cut again. From 1979 she returns.

Brian


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## briantutt (May 20, 2016)

Got it! Both needles were a little rich. Cuts like mad now!

Brian


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## briantutt (May 20, 2016)

There they are 3 saws from 4 bone pile saws. The next load of wood I go get these will see most of the action.

Brian


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## briantutt (May 20, 2016)

marti384 said:


> Looks good, you have enough room to do a top outlet like on some of the 3xx series for a dp muffler now if you wanted to.


Agreed. My 362XP has that top port. I bet the deflector and screen are still able to be found unlike the 162 and 266 muffler parts, all unobtainium.






Brian


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## briantutt (May 26, 2016)

SawTroll said:


> It is a bit sad that you had to use Chinese aftermarket clutch covers and chain brakes though - so getting some original working ones is your next project!


See what I mean? Gold plated I guess.






Brian


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## svk (May 28, 2016)

@mortalitool


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## briantutt (May 28, 2016)

I just gave the 266 a little work out cutting this white oak stump off. 






Brian


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## briantutt (May 28, 2016)

svk said:


> @mortalitool


I never know what these mean.

Brian


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## svk (May 28, 2016)

briantutt said:


> I never know what these mean.
> 
> Brian


At symbol plus the user name sends that person a notification they have been tagged. I'm tagging him so he looks at this thread. Kind of like shouting "hey you" across the Internet.


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## briantutt (May 28, 2016)

Oh, thanks for the info.

Brian


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## sixcylinder1 (Jun 2, 2016)

Very nice work Brian. Awesome to see these saws come back to life!!


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## briantutt (Jun 2, 2016)

sixcylinder1 said:


> Very nice work Brian. Awesome to see these saws come back to life!!


thanks! I still need to go cut a load with them to dial them in pergectly but I am happy with the project.

Brian


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## briantutt (Jun 4, 2016)

salvaging a chain that came with my 268,266,162 husky frankensaw project. 

what 3/8, .050 chain is marked 9L on the drive links? looks like Oregon 72DG semi chizek but none of the cross reference stuff I have leads me to what brand the chain is.

does anyone here know?

Brian


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## briantutt (Jun 11, 2016)

The 268 is about to get its first workout. Tree went right where I wanted it. 

Brian


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## briantutt (Jun 11, 2016)

She made short work out of that one! Runs great, only bumped the idle up a bit once she got warmed up.

Brian


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## briantutt (Jun 12, 2016)

.


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## briantutt (Jun 13, 2016)

Strike one for the Chinese parts. The 268 muffler popped open and started to melt the cover. I guess the brazing torch goes back into play. might as well dual port it while I have it apart.








Brian


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## briantutt (Jun 13, 2016)

now I need a 268 and a 266 top cover 

Brian


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## 67L36Driver (Jun 14, 2016)

briantutt said:


> now I need a 268 and a 266 top cover
> 
> Brian


That's about normal for half the saws out there. I wouldn't sweat it.


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## SawTroll (Jun 14, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> That's about normal for half the saws out there. I wouldn't sweat it.



At least I would rather keep it as is than put a Chinese aftermarket part on the saw - but people are different.


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## briantutt (Jun 14, 2016)

SawTroll said:


> At least I would rather keep it as is than put a Chinese aftermarket part on the saw - but people are different.


Agreed, I just wish I would have noticed it. oh well, from the top it doesn't look that noticeable. 

Brian


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## briantutt (Jun 15, 2016)

If I add a second port to the 268 muffler does it make sense to put it in at an angle on the other side like I am holding rather than in the front so the exhaust bursts have to contort to get out and blow straight out from the cylinder through a hole in the front?







Brian


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## briantutt (Jun 15, 2016)

I also dremeled away at the melted hole to make it look okay and ground away the dripped down crap on the other side to keep the air gap and flow between the muffler and top cover.






Brian


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## SawTroll (Jun 16, 2016)

briantutt said:


> If I add a second port to the 268 muffler does it make sense to put it in at an angle on the other side like I am holding rather than in the front so the exhaust bursts have to contort to get out and blow straight out from the cylinder through a hole in the front?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I believe so, but I can't really prove it. Regardless it looks better.


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## briantutt (Jun 29, 2016)

Strike 2 for the Chinese parts. One of the three chain brake flags now wants it's natural state to be back and in contact with your hand. Haven't opened it but it has less than an hour of run time and it shouldn't do this. I think the goofy spring shoved up in the flag is supposed to keep it forward against the trip lever. I have this random old orange flag that came in a 65L parts saw box I might use it when I take this apart.









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## briantutt (Jun 29, 2016)

On the way to remedy strike 1. 268 muffler ready for bead blast and then brazing. Added the port and will braze the two halves together as well.






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## briantutt (Jun 30, 2016)

So I think the issue with the chain brake is the goofy spring in the flag. It is supposed to be all in one plane so to speak or at least parallel planes but this one clearly has taken a set to the side. obviously not spring material, just wire. I guess I will have to cannibalize the husky 41 extra clutch cover for its spring.






Brian


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## smokey7 (Jul 1, 2016)

Ouch. You got a rough deal on some parts. You'll figure it out. Great job on some nice old saws tho.


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## briantutt (Jul 1, 2016)

For future reference goofy spring goes in this orientation, then put the pin in to hold the spring in, pin goes full under the spring not through either loop.









Brian


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## briantutt (Jul 8, 2016)

Got the 268 muffler double ported and tacked in the corners. Also brazed the center through pipes to the front half. Shouldn't go anywhere now! Just need to grind out the excess so the bolts go down the pipe and then ready for some paint.









Brian


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## briantutt (Jul 10, 2016)

268 back together. Had to shape the top cover a bit to clear the new port.









Churched up the three clutch covers with some assistance from Sugar Creek Supply.






Brian


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## briantutt (Jul 10, 2016)

Got a load of oak and ash today. The 268 and 266 did most of the work (well the Johnny 590 did some limbing)

Brian


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## briantutt (Jul 17, 2016)

such a good tip to not predrill when tapping up to the next size screw. Just fully tapped to M6 one of the starter mount screws on the 162. Just have to back out the tap when you feel a chip load.





Brian


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## briantutt (Aug 9, 2016)

Got this today for $9 it has a collet so it should work for the magic emery cloth cylinder cleanups in the future.

Brian


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## briantutt (Aug 19, 2016)

These will come in handy for the next project only $5

Brian


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## 67L36Driver (Aug 19, 2016)

briantutt said:


> These will come in handy for the next project only $5
> 
> Brian



Where did you find them?


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## briantutt (Aug 19, 2016)

tractor store, dollar days

Brian


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## svk (Sep 2, 2016)

Hey guys. I know these saws come with several different carbs. 

Is it a bolt in replacement to go from say a 163 carb on a 266 to a 260 carb on a 272 or do linkages need to be changed as well?


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## briantutt (Sep 2, 2016)

all four of the ones I rebuilt you could interchange. 

Brian


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## SawTroll (Sep 2, 2016)

svk said:


> Hey guys. I know these saws come with several different carbs.
> 
> Is it a bolt in replacement to go from say a 163 carb on a 266 to a 260 carb on a 272 or do linkages need to be changed as well?



I don't know the answer for sure, but believe you need the 268/272 intake as well as the carb (+ the cylinder of course) for a direct bolt-on, without having to modify anything.

@Cantdog, @spike60 and @taplinhill will know the answers for sure, and likely others as well....

*Edit;* Forgot to say, if you just want a 17.5mm carb on an older 266, the HS-224 is a direct bolt-on.


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## briantutt (Sep 2, 2016)

agreed, the air filter intake parts are different but the linkages for throttle and choke are all the same. 

Brian


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## svk (Sep 2, 2016)

Thank you. We have secured the 272 intake as well.


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## briantutt (Sep 14, 2016)

So a little frustrated. Cutting with the 268 and both rear top antivibes fail. The 266 and 162 have both started running less that perfect. The 162at idle runs the chain, even though the rpms are low. The 266 cuts and when I let off the throttle it takes a noticeable time to wind down to idle. All 3 have new rings, do you have tune again after some run time? All 3 cut so good upon initial rebuild. 

Brian


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## 67L36Driver (Sep 14, 2016)

New spring(s) for the clutch will cure the 162 possibly.


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## marti384 (Sep 14, 2016)

I had a problem with a 266 that took a long time to come back to idle after a cut. If I remember correctly I replaced the antivibes and that helped. It seemed like the old ones got a little stretched and didn't go back to there original shape very quickly, which made the tank and case be out of alignment. This made the throttle lever not close the butterfly all the way.


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## briantutt (Sep 14, 2016)

thanks guys for both tips. I will look into both things.

Brian


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## svk (Sep 30, 2016)

Just to make sure I have everything right:

To properly convert the 266 to 272 I know you need the Tilly 260. Then you need the block between the carb and engine. Do you need the rubber piece also or does the 266 one work?


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## svk (Oct 3, 2016)

svk said:


> Just to make sure I have everything right:
> 
> To properly convert the 266 to 272 I know you need the Tilly 260. Then you need the block between the carb and engine. Do you need the rubber piece also or does the 266 one work?


Bump. Anyone?


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## briantutt (Oct 3, 2016)

svk said:


> Just to make sure I have everything right:
> 
> To properly convert the 266 to 272 I know you need the Tilly 260. Then you need the block between the carb and engine. Do you need the rubber piece also or does the 266 one work?


you will need the hard plastic piece between the cylinder and the carb and the rubber part as well. the hard plastic parts are shaped different. I just popped the top covers and filters off both to check.

Brian


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## svk (Oct 3, 2016)

Thanks much!


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## briantutt (Oct 11, 2016)

So I finally have the 162 tuned right. It was great then got wierd, do you think the new rings setting in can affect the tuning. Anyway, it is fairly strong in the cut, 4 strokes before and cleans up but if she is at an idle I have to ease into full throttle. I know the throttle response should be instant off idle. should be able to just goose it. Any ideas?

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## 67L36Driver (Oct 11, 2016)

Open the low side quarter turn. Reset idle.


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## briantutt (Oct 12, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> Open the low side quarter turn. Reset idle.


huh, it was only making the high end rich and then leaning the low speed needle that got it to where it is. Maybe I should video it.

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## briantutt (Oct 15, 2016)

I watched the tuning 101 thread videos. The 162 is now putting a grin on my face when I cut with her. I also swapped. the clutch with the other one from the piece part pile. Spring was screwed on the one I took off, no it idles great with no chain movement. You can see the failed area on the removed clutch.







Brian


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## briantutt (Oct 15, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> Open the low side quarter turn. Reset idle.


Carl you were right, I had to come back out on the low speed and I was WAY rich on the high end.

Brian


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## SawTroll (Oct 15, 2016)

briantutt said:


> huh, it was only making the high end rich and then leaning the low speed needle that got it to where it is. Maybe I should video it.



You should set the L for proper acceleration first, then adjust the H.


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## briantutt (Oct 18, 2016)

why would my 162 just stop oiling? it is gear drive oiler so I don't see why it would stop. Maybe the gear failed?

Brian


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## SawTroll (Oct 18, 2016)

briantutt said:


> why would my 162 just stop oiling? it is gear drive oiler so I don't see why it would stop. Maybe the gear failed?
> 
> Brian



That's possible - but it also could be a disconnected line, or even an empty tank (I assume you checked that, really).

If it isn't one of those options, I guess you have to take the oiler apart, and have a closer look.


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## briantutt (Oct 18, 2016)

will do, I was mostly just wondering if those oilers have a track record of working or not. I will dump the oil and check the hose and then pull the oiler if the hose is attached. 

Brian


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## BGE541 (Oct 18, 2016)

Here is mine I have a lot of parts if you need any. Looking to sell if you know any other 266 lovers.


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## briantutt (Nov 16, 2016)

finally got the AV mounts to get the 268 back in the fold. I realize now what happened, like an idiot I forgot to put the bolts into the 2 bottom mounts so the top 2 were carrying all the load and failed.





Brian


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## svk (Nov 23, 2016)

Could anyone please supply me with the proper part number for the coil on the earlier two piece ignition saws?


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## svk (Nov 23, 2016)

BGE541 said:


> Here is mine I have a lot of parts if you need any. Looking to sell if you know any other 266 lovers.


Do you have a coil for a 2 piece ignition?


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## briantutt (Sep 10, 2017)

Got a newer cover for the 266! Looks pretty good now!










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## sixcylinder1 (Sep 10, 2017)

Nice brian! Ive been looking for a top cover for my 266 and boy are they hard to find in decent shape!


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## briantutt (Dec 5, 2017)

I have put several tanks through all 3 of these saws this fall. Other than the 162 oiling too slow all are very solid. I am happy i spent the time on them.

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## sixcylinder1 (Dec 5, 2017)

Good to hear Brian! I finally found a NOS 266 top cover for 35 bucks on eBay! Score!


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## briantutt (Dec 5, 2017)

sixcylinder1 said:


> Good to hear Brian! I finally found a NOS 266 top cover for 35 bucks on eBay! Score!


That sounds very good. I am watching, i must have missed it.

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## svk (Dec 5, 2017)

Shoot, I had a 266 cover that I gave away in the holiday giving thread last year.


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## leecopland (Dec 6, 2017)

I turned a 61 into a 268 with Huztl parts and worked out well. My only issue with it is the oil tank seems to empty itself when sitting. Any suggestions


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## briantutt (Dec 6, 2017)

leecopland said:


> I turned a 61 into a 268 with Huztl parts and worked out well. My only issue with it is the oil tank seems to empty itself when sitting. Any suggestions


In my experience that is normal for several of my saws. I got a roll of pig mat to keep the shelves from being a big mess but stopped caring about the leaking saws.  Oh and make sure you have good sticky oil, that seems to help some.

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## Griffdog1 (Dec 6, 2017)

Have you adjusted the oiler on the 162? It has a 4 position adjustment on the top right of the oil pump housing. These husqvarna oilers generally work very well, but they are prone to stripping the plastic pump gear and you need to experiment with the position of the adjustment.


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## briantutt (Dec 6, 2017)

I did turn it to 4, however I too was thinking about that gear. I should probably just pull it apart down to that gear and check it. I don't really want to pull the oiler because of the crank seal but if it is that gear that would be pretty simple. If I recall one of the four gears looked different. Maybe I put the odd one in there and it is the culprit, I will have to check that.


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## Griffdog1 (Dec 7, 2017)

The four arms on the gear should be the same. If the threads are not meshing properly you can easily strip the plastic gear thread.


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## svk (Sep 22, 2019)

Picked up this 268 a couple months ago locally then got the 272 recoil from a fellow AS member. Put it together, no spark. Cleaned a Dixie cup worth of crud from around the flywheel and reset the coil with a business card and we’ve got bright blue spark. Need to clean the work bench tomorrow and find the muffler and see if we’ve got a runner. The piston is perfect and has lots of compression.


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## svk (Oct 5, 2019)

Got the saw running today. Runs great!! Just need a new chain tensioner bolt and kill switch. 

One question. The plastic disc behind the rim/over the oil pump cover is sorta loose and spins. Is this supposed to spin or stay stationary?


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## briantutt (Oct 5, 2019)

I am not sure how it is supposed to be new but those are loose on mine too.

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