# Best old & inexpensive truck?



## InTheFlow (Apr 24, 2008)

I need a truck for getting firewood from the mountains (personal use). Probably about 30 - 45 minute drive one way. It needs to be as reliable as they get but easy to work on with easy access to inexpensive parts for when I do need to work on it.

Budget is no more than 1K so I figure that means its going to be old and have high mileage, hence the reliability requirement. Would prefer a straight axle, if possible. Would also be great if it could pull a trailer so that I could get more wood per trip! :jawdrop: 

Any hearty recommendations or anything I should definitely avoid as far as reliability goes?

Thanks!


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## Peacock (Apr 24, 2008)

'73-87 GM 3/4 ton. With a 4 speed and 4 wheel drive.

Just like mine!


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## wood4heat (Apr 24, 2008)

The fact that you want a solid front axle makes me think you're looking for a 4X4. If so I think the closest you're going to come to all those requirements would be an '79-'83 Toyota. You'll have to search to find one for $1,000.00 but it's possible. They're simple and pretty bullet proof but don't have a lot of power, should be able to pull a loaded 5x8 trailer though. 

Of these the '79, '80 models had a 20R engine with a 4spd. The '82, '83 had a slightly more powerful 22R engine and a 5spd. I have heard the 5spd used in these trucks wasn't as durable as the earlier 4spd but their still Toyota so...

For $1,000.00 you can't be too picky but as a bonus a lot of the "79-"83 4X4's were long beds. 

Good luck


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## Mike Van (Apr 24, 2008)

My 2 cents - I'd look for a one ton, cab & chassis, Ford, Chevy, Dodge, whatever - Dual rear wheels, you can carry 2 ton easily, build your own body if you have to, also pull a pretty good trailer.


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## gink595 (Apr 24, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> I need a truck for getting firewood from the mountains (personal use). Probably about 30 - 45 minute drive one way. It needs to be as reliable as they get but easy to work on with easy access to inexpensive parts for when I do need to work on it.
> 
> Budget is no more than 1K so I figure that means its going to be old and have high mileage, hence the reliability requirement. Would prefer a straight axle, if possible. Would also be great if it could pull a trailer so that I could get more wood per trip! :jawdrop:
> 
> ...



You can find old 73-79 ford trucks around that range, they were decent trucks, 1/2 & 3/4 tons had dana 44 front axles with the tough ford 9" rears or dana 60. 1 tons had Dana 60 F&R. New process gear drive transfer cases. Power plants 300 straight six, 302,351M-400M or 460 motors any of them are good motors, all rough on fuel mileage. I think these old trucks are a great wood haulers for the the price they bring.


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## Stihl051master (Apr 24, 2008)

Do you need a 4x4? If not I'd agree with a Chevy/Ford/Dodge one ton chassis cab and make your own stake rack bed so you could haul more per load. One thing to consider on the older trucks is parts availability, interchangability, and cost. In this regard The GM trucks would be best (a least around here). You really can't beat a 73-87 Gm truck. All bellhousings are the same pattern from the straight 6's to the 6.2/5 diesels to the big blocks. So engine/transmission swaps are easy to do.They are easier to work on than the Fords(speaking from PLENTY of experience on both), and parts are VERY cheap and plentiful.I'd stay away from the older 700-R4 overdrives though. I've had nothing but problems with those. You can't beat a 4 speed with the creeper low gear.


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## BIG JAKE (Apr 24, 2008)

Peacock said:


> '73-87 GM 3/4 ton. With a 4 speed and 4 wheel drive.
> 
> Just like mine!



Yep-I'll second that:blob5:


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## BIG JAKE (Apr 24, 2008)

wood4heat said:


> The fact that you want a solid front axle makes me think you're looking for a 4X4. If so I think the closest you're going to come to all those requirements would be an '79-'83 Toyota. You'll have to search to find one for $1,000.00 but it's possible. They're simple and pretty bullet proof but don't have a lot of power, should be able to pull a loaded 5x8 trailer though.
> 
> Of these the '79, '80 models had a 20R engine with a 4spd. The '82, '83 had a slightly more powerful 22R engine and a 5spd. I have heard the 5spd used in these trucks wasn't as durable as the earlier 4spd but their still Toyota so...
> 
> ...



I had an 80 toyota 4x4. It would haul a load in the bed but you add a trailer and.. don't think I'd go that route. If you could find an 85 nissan 4x4 they had a lot more power. Both options more grocery getters though, not wood haulers. My 2c


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## DWittenbreder (Apr 24, 2008)

*wood hauler*

I'd stay away from the rice burners. really can't beat a gm 73-87 w/ sm465 and a NP205 transfer case. cheap parts and readily available.


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## doubletodd (Apr 24, 2008)

Peacock said:


> '73-87 GM 3/4 ton. With a 4 speed and 4 wheel drive.
> 
> Just like mine!



+1 my last hauler was a 82 gmc 2500 had about $750 invested and I worked it hard for about 7 years and the truck never let me down. lots of cheap parts and great dependability. Only scrapped it out because I'm building another hauler. the beast was one of my all time favorite trucks


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## chowdozer (Apr 24, 2008)

I would go for something like these.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/car/654966980.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/car/655146868.html


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## InTheFlow (Apr 24, 2008)

Wow guys, ya'll are awesome! I appreciate this information, as I know zilch about trucks. 

I don't know if I need a 4x4 or not. What is the best way to tell? I contacted the forest service and they said that what they are about to open up for firewood access is fairly easy to get to. So for that I doubt I'd need a 4x4. However, I'd rather not be limited in where I can get wood.

Are ya'll saying that one of the above recommended 2WD trucks would go offroad without issue too?

Ya'll make the GMs sound great...how big of a gas tank is on one?

Thanks again! 

BTW: I'd like a manual instead of automatic, if possible.


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## Modifiedmark (Apr 24, 2008)

For a thousand dollars you are not going to be able to be too picky.

I would say if it was me I would be looking for a Ford, Chevy or Dodge 3/4 ton.


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## chainsawaddict (Apr 24, 2008)

Peacock said:


> '73-87 GM 3/4 ton. With a 4 speed and 4 wheel drive.
> 
> Just like mine!



+1

with gas prices the way they are, you can really find one of these pretty cheap. unfortunately though, 12 mpg is a good day.

Good trucks, easy to work on, easy to get cheap parts, super low granny gear. good wood trucks!


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## J.Gordon (Apr 24, 2008)

I would definitely opt for a four wheel drive! I know its apples to oranges but I have a 91 Dodge CTD 2wd and it is totally helpless unless you have a half ton of weight in the bed. Same with my Ford unless it's in 4wd.
( And that’s on grass.)

I also have an 80 F250 4wd with a 351M, I’m thinking about putting in a 300-6 since the 351 is down. MPG sucks compared to the Cummins but at least it will get to the wood.


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## chowdozer (Apr 24, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> Wow guys, ya'll are awesome! I appreciate this information, as I know zilch about trucks.
> 
> I don't know if I need a 4x4 or not. What is the best way to tell? I contacted the forest service and they said that what they are about to open up for firewood access is fairly easy to get to. So for that I doubt I'd need a 4x4. However, I'd rather not be limited in where I can get wood.
> 
> ...



If the FS says it's easy to get to, I'd go 2wd. 4wd is nice, but you get alot less of a truck for the price too. You also get more to maintain. With a 2wd truck loaded and some traction tires a 2wd does well. Throw some chains in if need be. edit: If it has a gov-lock in the rear, even better.

If you get a 2wd stuck, a shovel and a small winch or come-along can get you out. If you get a 4wd stuck, you need another 4wd or a wrecker.

Don't be afraid of a Turbo 350 or Turbo 400 transmission either. I prefer a 4 speed, but the autos are good and sometimes better. Plus they're cheap and easy to find.

73-87 shortbeds had single or dual 16 gallon tanks. 73-87 longbeds had either single or dual 16 or 20 gallon tanks.

If you get a 3/4 ton, get a full floating rear. Pull the rear hubcap and make sure there's a hub sticking out 3" or so past the wheel. There will be 8 lugs holding the wheel on and 8 bolts holding the axle in. pic The full floating diff is good for about 5500 pounds on a single wheeled rear.

Stay away from semi floating axles Not good for hauling loads.


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## chowdozer (Apr 24, 2008)

oh, and the other thing to look for in a woodhauler. Look at the GVW on the tag of the drivers door jamb. There were 8,600 GVW and 6,600 GVW varieties. The 8,600 had 13" rear brakes, the 6,600 had 11". Front brakes were the same. If it says "Camper Special" or "Trailering Special" on an emblem behind the door, it has the bigger brakes. You'll want them when you get over 3,000 pounds in the back.

These trucks also had a problem rusting through the firewall next to the brake booster. If it rusts through there, it will rust out the floor and the rocker/door sill.


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## J.Gordon (Apr 24, 2008)

I would definitely opt for a four wheel drive! I know its apples to oranges but I have a 91 Dodge CTD 2wd and it is totally helpless unless you have a half ton of weight in the bed.
( And that’s on grass.)

I also have an 80 F250 4wd with a 351M, I’m thinking about putting in a 300-6 since the 351 is down. MPG sucks compared to the Cummins but at least it will get to the wood.


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## chainsawaddict (Apr 24, 2008)

chowdozer said:


> oh, and the other thing to look for in a woodhauler. Look at the GVW on the tag of the drivers door jamb. There were 8,600 GVW and 6,600 GVW varieties. The 8,600 had 13" rear brakes, the 6,600 had 11". Front brakes were the same. If it says "Camper Special" or "Trailering Special" on an emblem behind the door, it has the bigger brakes. You'll want them when you get over 3,000 pounds in the back.
> 
> These trucks also had a problem rusting through the firewall next to the brake booster. If it rusts through there, it will rust out the floor and the rocker/door sill.



Didnt some 3/4 tons have the Dana 44 front end instead of the 60?? I remember we had an old farm truck with 60's front and rear, that thing was a beast.


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## gink595 (Apr 24, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> Ya'll make the GMs sound great...how big of a gas tank is on one?



Oh nay, nay! negative, Don't short change yourself. Old Fords Baby!!!


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## chainsawaddict (Apr 24, 2008)

J.Gordon said:


> I would definitely opt for a four wheel drive! I know its apples to oranges but I have a 91 Dodge CTD 2wd and it is totally helpless unless you have a half ton of weight in the bed.
> ( And that’s on grass.)
> 
> I also have an 80 F250 4wd with a 351M, I’m thinking about putting in a 300-6 since the 351 is down. MPG sucks compared to the Cummins but at least it will get to the wood.



I have a 2wd f150 for my wood truck. The 300-6 is probably one of the most underated engines ever, mine has 225,000, doesnt use oil and runs like a top. i am really hoping to get all my wood cut before snow flies again, it was a long winter with 2wd though. I had to dig myself out with an ice cream bucket i just happened to have in the cab it wasnt fun.

On the plus side though, another time when i got it stuck in the snow i had to carry wood about 100 yds to load it so i could get enough traction and get out. My german shepherd watched me for about 20 minutes and started running back and forth loading the small stuff into the back of the truck. She does it all the time now, one of the neatest things ive ever seen. Im thinking about getting her a sled!!:monkey:


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## gink595 (Apr 24, 2008)

chainsawaddict said:


> Didnt some 3/4 tons have the Dana 44 front end instead of the 60?? I remember we had an old farm truck with 60's front and rear, that thing was a beast.



Yes they did, infact I've never seen a dana 60 on a 3/4 ton anything from GM. I believe in 80-81 gm went to a nock off corporate dana 44 fnt. axle that they made. I've had a few fords with the 60 in front they are beasts I have never broke one yet. I had a 78 ford 3/4 ton with the snow fighter package on it that had a 60 that someone put a locker in it. That thing would literally keep going untill the frame hanging up.


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## chainsawaddict (Apr 24, 2008)

gink595 said:


> Oh nay, nay! negative, Don't short change yourself. Old Fords Baby!!!



hey, the best old truck is a 79 ford 1 ton, but you cant touch one for $1000


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## chowdozer (Apr 24, 2008)

chainsawaddict said:


> Didnt some 3/4 tons have the Dana 44 front end instead of the 60?? I remember we had an old farm truck with 60's front and rear, that thing was a beast.



All GM 3/4 tons I have seen had a Dana 44 or a GM 10 bolt in the front. Not saying they didn't have a Dana 60, I just haven't seen one. The K30 1 ton had a Dana 60 in front. I don't think there were any 73-87 models with a Dana 60 in the rear.


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## chainsawaddict (Apr 24, 2008)

chowdozer said:


> All GM 3/4 tons I have seen had a Dana 44 or a GM 10 bolt in the front. Not saying they didn't have a Dana 60, I just haven't seen one. The K30 1 ton had a Dana 60 in front. I don't think there were any 73-87 models with a Dana 60 in the rear.



Yep, you're right, Im thinking of an old ford. Big GMs had 14 bolts in the rear?


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## gink595 (Apr 24, 2008)

chainsawaddict said:


> hey, the best old truck is a 79 ford 1 ton, but you cant touch one for $1000



I picked one up (78) for 1100 a few years back with a 429 that was in it. Great old truck. My favorites of all time.


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## clearance (Apr 24, 2008)

chowdozer said:


> All GM 3/4 tons I have seen had a Dana 44 or a GM 10 bolt in the front. Not saying they didn't have a Dana 60, I just haven't seen one. The K30 1 ton had a Dana 60 in front. I don't think there were any 73-87 models with a Dana 60 in the rear.



Same here. The rearend for 3/4 tons was the 14 bolt full floater, until 1981. Then it was that or the car style 14 bolt semi floater, lame. The 14 bolt f.f. is closer to a Dana 70, much stronger than a Dana 60 rear axle.


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## chainsawaddict (Apr 24, 2008)

gink595 said:


> I picked one up (78) for 1100 a few years back with a 429 that was in it. Great old truck. My favorites of all time.



Thats a pretty good deal. Especially if it has the high pinion axles. The 4wd crowd really wants those.


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## gink595 (Apr 24, 2008)

chainsawaddict said:


> Yep, you're right, Im thinking of an old ford. Big GMs had 14 bolts in the rear?



Yes 14 bolt. Which I think is way tougher than the Dana 60's. I have seen Dana rear ends in the military chevy's. Maybe a 70?


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## gink595 (Apr 24, 2008)

chainsawaddict said:


> Thats a pretty good deal. Especially if it has the high pinion axles. The 4wd crowd really wants those.



Yes the front did have the reversed pinion, I parted the truck out, Thats why I bought it, just for the front axle. I didn't cut wood than, now I wish I had it complete, to use.


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## chowdozer (Apr 24, 2008)

A word about manual transmissions.

There was only 1 4 speed manual until sometime in the early 80's. The SM 465. It has one of the lowest( the lowest??? Jeepers love them) granny gears of any 4 speed made. It is all cast iron. If you find the option code sheet in the glovebox, it will be code M20. It's also called the 119mm transmission because it is 119mm between the mainshaft and the countershaft and no slip yoke if it's in a 2wd. If the truck doesn't have a carpet in it, the trans tunnel will be removable with a whole bunch of bolts. The trans tunnel doesn't guarantee the trans, but if it's not a removable tunnel, it's not an SM465. It has a PTO cover on left and right sides of the trans. It was made by Muncie, also called New Departure. Some of the bearings say ND on them and bearing houses have difficulty getting them but most trans shops can. The transmission to stay away from is the 89mm (87mm?). I don't know the option code on that one.


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## chainsawaddict (Apr 24, 2008)

You guys are good!


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## chowdozer (Apr 24, 2008)

chainsawaddict said:


> You guys are good!



I've had a few of them.


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## chowdozer (Apr 24, 2008)

Here's a sorta picture of the 1978 that has been with me for 16 years. I don't know, maybe 17. It has about 280,000 miles on it.


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## gink595 (Apr 24, 2008)

TreeCo said:


> If this truck is only to be used for hauling wood you might want to look into a little larger truck.
> 
> A few years ago I sold a 1965 chev C60 for $1,000. Great running inline six, 4 speed trans with two speed rear. GVW was 24,500lbs and it had a 15ft dump bed.
> 
> ...



+1, Thats kinda what I'm leaning for, but they are about 3-4 tho for a decent one that don't need a lot of expensive work done, at least around my area.


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## eric_271 (Apr 24, 2008)

TreeCo said:


> If this truck is only to be used for hauling wood you might want to look into a little larger truck.
> 
> A few years ago I sold a 1965 chev C60 for $1,000. Great running inline six, 4 speed trans with two speed rear. GVW was 24,500lbs and it had a 15ft dump bed.
> 
> ...



This is the route I went. I bought a 1958 chevy wheat truck for $500. It will haul a big load of wood. I know there are a lot of these trucks in colorado, lot of wheat planted there. For the price they cant be beat with a dump bed on them already and does away with a lot of handling, at least the unloading part. Mine dont groan too much at 70 mph with the 2 speed rear end. A pickup truck aint going to haul near the load a wheat truck will.


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## InTheFlow (Apr 24, 2008)

dang...this is kicking!  Thanks again to all!

The truck will be strictly for working. Main job will be hauling wood but will also use it to pick up building supplies from the hardware store.

My daily 'commuter' is a 1981 Kawasaki KZ750 with a Toyota Corolla as a backup.

I think it would be smart for me to get a truck that a lot of people know inside and out so that, should the need arise, I'll be able to get help. With all of the people here that seem to like these old GMs, I bet there is a forum somewhere on the net dedicated completely to them.  

So, when looking for these how do sellers usually list them? Do they just say for example: "1979 3/4 ton GM" or is there a marketing name that is more common?

Edit: Are the wheat trucks fairly easy to work on? Are parts readily available and inexpensive as well?


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## OilHead (Apr 25, 2008)

I have been told duals aren't very good in the snow but have seen tow trucks chained up with them in 20' snow banks they really rip up a storm.


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## dumbhunter (Apr 25, 2008)

you could look into a military 5/4 truck, they go fairly reasonable with a deisel for better fuel economy and thier 4x4's a site you could check out is; http://www.govliquidation.com/

they have them on here frequently. or go with the duece and half.

if at all stick with the older gm's. easier to maintain and parts abundant


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## Peacock (Apr 25, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> So, when looking for these how do sellers usually list them? Do they just say for example: "1979 3/4 ton GM" or is there a marketing name that is more common?



C= 2wd

K= 4wd

10, 20, 30 for 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton. Mine is a K20.


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## ropensaddle (Apr 25, 2008)

Was that a 1000 down are not going to get much anymore
for a thousand anyway here is my rough truck and it eats
a chevy

It is a forest service 65 f250 4+4 4 speed granny 390 rebuilt
new tires new lock outs, tires. It needs mufflers, and rear springs
but what old truck does not have saggy springs?

I have a 85 one ton dump I would part with for 1000 but even though it runs and drives and is dependable it must be fed oil and
sucks fuel with a 460!


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## gink595 (Apr 25, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> Was that a 1000 down are not going to get much anymore
> for a thousand anyway here is my rough truck and it eats
> a chevy
> 
> ...



OHHHHH, Ol' Highboy  Must be nice. Not many of those things around. 390 is a helluva motor!!


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## buckwheat (Apr 25, 2008)

Also keep in mind that these older trucks are usually exempt from emissions standards. 

I have a friend who is my inspection mechanic...as long as I'm not putting "road miles" on my firewood truck, he usually just does a "lick-em stick-em" check for me each year.


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## Patrick62 (Apr 25, 2008)

*My $0.02 worth*

With the budget of about $1000, already mentioned that the "ultimate" wood hauler aint gonna be easy to find.

In regards to the heavy iron mentioned, what is the biggest difference between Ford/Chev/Dodge ??? Other than "personal preference", it is the engine.
All three use the same basic transmissions, axles, etc.

What it really amounts to is:
If it is working for you, and you ain't fixing it everyday, than it is great.

Is 4wheel needed? Probably not, most of the time. I hauled bunches of wood with a 2wheel drive and a granny tranny. However! Now that I have 4wheel, I find it is easier on the truck (and me) to use the lower gears, and extra traction.

What would I be looking for in this situation, would be a heavy half, or a 3/4 ton truck. Mostly look for something that will require the minimum attention before it is ready to work.

My current preference in trucks?? Dodge.

-Pat


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## max2cam (Apr 25, 2008)

If you're going to climb any hills or drive through mud or sand, I'd try to find a 4WD. I'm going thru that agony right now with my "modest" hill and my 2WD '71 Chevy 1/2 ton. Even with tire chains on it I still NEED 4WD and wish my truck had it!


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## ropensaddle (Apr 25, 2008)

gink595 said:


> OHHHHH, Ol' Highboy  Must be nice. Not many of those things around. 390 is a helluva motor!!



Yes it is ,a 390 is a bad boy they were talked about bad for
many years but FE blocks are bad to the bone especially if opened
up with a victor intake! The big engines were choked down too
much I may soup it up but its already a 2dollar pistil


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## ropensaddle (Apr 25, 2008)

Patrick62 said:


> With the budget of about $1000, already mentioned that the "ultimate" wood hauler aint gonna be easy to find.
> 
> In regards to the heavy iron mentioned, what is the biggest difference between Ford/Chev/Dodge ??? Other than "personal preference", it is the engine.
> All three use the same basic transmissions, axles, etc.
> ...



I don't agree with you rear ends are way different and make the truck. Too many differences to begin talking about.Transmissions are also different and true granny's are not synchronized and are not for downshifting.I have three in good shape! I also have 3 c6 automatics in working shape they were tough autos! I liked turbo 400 in chevy but their rear ends were glass, good motors! Rears make the truck I had a motor that was a 428scj and ran like a scalded dog in one ranchero put in a different car was a snail comparatively, ratios and limited slip or traction lock Etc so many different applications!


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## Patrick62 (Apr 25, 2008)

*Another $0.02 worth*



ropensaddle said:


> I don't agree with you rear ends are way different and make the truck. Too many differences to begin talking about.Transmissions are also different and true granny's are not synchronized and are not for downshifting.I have three in good shape! I also have 3 c6 automatics in working shape they were tough autos! I liked turbo 400 in chevy but their rear ends were glass, good motors! Rears make the truck I had a motor that was a 428scj and ran like a scalded dog in one ranchero put in a different car was a snail comparatively, ratios and limited slip or traction lock Etc so many different applications!



In half ton, the Fords have the strongest with their corporate 9" (beast)
Dodge with either the 8.75, or later 9.25 is also very respectable.
Chevy... weakest with the 12 bolt, and later 10 bolt.... but still servicable if care is exercised.

In 3/4 ton stuff, you won't find a "bad" axle in the rear! The Dana 60 is in most of them, with Chevy also using a 14 bolt.... I have had well over 3 tons on my D60 a few times. It survived.

Front axle 1/2 and 3/4 all used at one time or another Dana 44's Sometimes you will find a Dana 60 up there. Brutal!!!

gearing: for hauling we need the lowest gear that still allows something in the way of miles per gallon. My K10 has 3.07 (pathetic for pulling). The W200 dump truck has 4.10 and you would think that is low enough! I could use lower gears, but will live with what I have.

Lockers? Limited slips, Leave that to the dedicated off road enthusiast. With the weight we carry traction is rarely a issue.

Automatics? Add a LARGE cooler if you gonna work one hard. I prefer my 4 speeds.
NP435, SM465, T18/19, SM420 (ancient), T98, are what you are going to find. Some have quirks, but all have some sort of a "granny gear".

-Pat


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## chowdozer (Apr 25, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> dang...this is kicking!  Thanks again to all!
> 
> The truck will be strictly for working. Main job will be hauling wood but will also use it to pick up building supplies from the hardware store.
> 
> ...



Ok, a little about tires and wheels too.

From 73 to probably the early 80's, GM's had 16.5" wheels. Barf. The pickups in the 60's had split rims. Split rims are dangerous if not installed correctly. It got to the point where many tire shops refused to work on them. You won't see them much anymore, but the replacement for the split rim was the 16.5" wheel. 

In addition to the wheel being larger, it was a tubeless design. The worst problem with the 16.5" wheel was it had a 45 degree bead where the sidewall seated. This required extra wire in the tire bead to keep it from popping off the rim. 16.5" tires are more expensive and in most cases a special order item at tire stores now. The industry switched back to a 16" wheel in the 80's, this time tubeless and with a 90 degree bead.  Check the trucks you look at, make sure they have 16" wheels. More tread variety, cheaper and usually off the shelf.

Some people are going to disagree with me on this one, but I mention it in the name of safety. Stock Chevrolet or GMC wheels!!! Not Ford wheels, not Dodge wheels. They will fit the lug nut bolt pattern, but you lose the hub centric aspect of the wheel. A pickup wheel fits snug on the hup. This is a load carrying aspect of the wheel! Ford and Dodge wheels have a larger center hole in the wheel. They do not fit a Chevy hub snug. Bad.

Check the truck you're looking at and make sure the wheel fits snug on the hub. A stock GM 16" steel wheel is good for 3000 pounds, about the same as a load range E tire. And use load range E tires too.

I mention this because as a wood hauler, I know you are going to load that thing a little heavier each time you cut. Don't take your chances.


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## gink595 (Apr 25, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> Yes it is ,a 390 is a bad boy they were talked about bad for
> many years but FE blocks are bad to the bone especially if opened
> up with a victor intake! The big engines were choked down too
> much I may soup it up but its already a 2dollar pistil



Well the FE (-)(427&-428)series motors like any thing else ford makes, The engines start life in their cars and as they phase the motors out they put them in the trucks and change the torque curve, which kinda sucks.
Now if they did put the 352HO and 390 Galaxy 500 motors in the truck line that = lots more fun. My old man used to build alot of FE and 385 series motors, he used to work at Ford in dearborn,Mi. We have a lot of special tools(cam bearing Install/puller, main seal presses etc...) that have FoMoCo stamped on them, most for the FE.


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## Patrick62 (Apr 26, 2008)

*Hub centric, lug centric, egg centric*

Run what you got. I have run them both ways. Basic rule is to keep them tight!

Agreed, 16.5's suck. 16" standard rims are fine.

Split rims (Budd's) should be avoided, however.....
Have you ever met a "stronger" wheel????
back in the day of 12 ply *TRUCK* tires, it would have taken 3 strong monkeys, 2 elephants, squad of cheer leaders, and divine assistance to work one over a conventional rim. Hence the reasoning for a split rim.

Have you ever changed a tire on a split?? Last one I did took about 2 hours...
I aired it up with a 100 ft. hose... just in case.

-pat :monkey:


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## doubletodd (Apr 26, 2008)

max2cam said:


> If you're going to climb any hills or drive through mud or sand, I'd try to find a 4WD. I'm going thru that agony right now with my "modest" hill and my 2WD '71 Chevy 1/2 ton. Even with tire chains on it I still NEED 4WD and wish my truck had it!



I'm building a 70 3/4 4x4 for a hauler .I love those trucks I'm hoping to have duals and a dump bed on it when I'm done


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## jjett84724 (Apr 26, 2008)

I bought this pick-up for $800. Its 3/4 ton, with an automatic transmission. It runs like a champ and is 4 wheel drive. I spent two days looking in the online classifieds. There were three or four trucks similar to this one. This one was about two hundred miles from my house and the owner met me half way. 
I bought a set of tires and wheels off of craigslist for $125. When I took the tires down to be mounted on my truck at a local tire shop the owner of the shop wanted the rims. I traded him the rims for two new tires and put those on the back of the truck. Built a couple racks with 2x4's that were laying around. 








So total cash expended was $925. I have hauled wood with it and its a dream. 


Take your time and spend a day or two before parting with your hard earned cash. You can find a deal if your patient. Good Luck.
Post pics when you find the one you want.


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## streeter (Apr 26, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> dang...this is kicking!  Thanks again to all!
> 
> 
> So, when looking for these how do sellers usually list them? Do they just say for example: "1979 3/4 ton GM" or is there a marketing name that is more common?
> ...


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## 046 (Apr 26, 2008)

craigslist is your friend... deals pop up and are going pretty quick!

it's going to be really hard to find... but can be done. 

best used truck for low $$ is a 12valve cummins dodge. 88-97
maybe not $1000, but $4k is doable..


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## InTheFlow (Apr 27, 2008)

Once again, thanks a bunch ya'll!

I'm watching craigslist and have looked in the local freebie papers too. So far, no luck but I'm not in a super rush or anything.

Based on the advise everyone has shared, I've decided on getting a GM/Chevy from the 73-87 year range keeping in mind that the 16" wheels are what I want. I'll go with a Ford if I can't find a worthy GM/Chevy.

Around here there seem to be more Fords so who knows.


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## gink595 (Apr 27, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> Around here there seem to be more *Fords* so who knows.



There is a *Strong* reason for that!!!!!


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## nytreeman (Apr 28, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> Was that a 1000 down are not going to get much anymore
> for a thousand anyway here is my rough truck and it eats
> a chevy
> 
> ...



*nice ole 65 Rope!!!*


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## nytreeman (Apr 28, 2008)

gink595 said:


> You can find old 73-79 ford trucks around that range, they were decent trucks, 1/2 & 3/4 tons had dana 44 front axles with the tough ford 9" rears or dana 60. 1 tons had Dana 60 F&R. New process gear drive transfer cases. Power plants 300 straight six, 302,351M-400M or 460 motors any of them are good motors, all rough on fuel mileage. I think these old trucks are a great wood haulers for the the price they bring.



Damn straight,tough!!!,used to have all newer chevys,but now all I have now are old Fords,all I've found and restored, I do all my own repairs maintenance,
pre emissions so they are relatively simple to work on,and they run every day with little trouble,other than they do burn gas,but so does any big block 8 banger


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## nytreeman (Apr 28, 2008)

Just frame off restored My 1969 f-350 dually,wood/chip dump,10,000 gvw,390 FE, np 435 4spd,full floating Dana 70 rear with .456 gears, top end speed is about 65-70 but she'll pull any hill loaded,and tow my chipper,or trailer loaded weighing another 6000 lbs.Granted I have ALOT more than a grand in it but I paid 200.00 for it originally put a cpl grand into it and a dump.Worked it 6 years and now it's been gone through front to rear,for under $3,000 and a sh!t load of work and is by far the best truck Ive ever owned


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## nytreeman (Apr 28, 2008)

and heres my 1973 Ford f-250 highboy,4X4,np 435,dana 60 rear 44 front,360 ci fe engine






my wifes car,  , 1978 Bronco, built 400 engine,c-6 auto with a shift kit,9 inch rear .350 gears 4 inch lift


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## InTheFlow (Apr 28, 2008)

nice looking trucks nytreeman! I can tell you take pride in them.


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## nytreeman (Apr 28, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> nice looking trucks nytreeman! I can tell you take pride in them.



Thanks InTheFlow I do love these trucks,they might be old but they are solid and they are beasts,but I have had newer Mopar and Gms too before them,the're all good if they get the job done,but these are by far the best trucks I've ever owned


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## ropensaddle (Apr 28, 2008)

nytreeman said:


> and heres my 1973 Ford f-250 highboy,4X4,np 435,dana 60 rear 44 front,360 ci fe engine
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Old fords rule and remind me of husky's Nice trucks I need to
get mine together and photo them I have a 78 f350 2 wheel made into a
wrecker puller truck it has a in and out pto winch! The 65 in the photo
a 72 bronco,85f350,77 cobra and don't need it all so am going to part
with some to complete the others! My bronco is lifted with rancho 4 " 
suspension and I rerings a .40 over 302 has 45 lbs cold 35 at operating
temp and will go anywhere in the woods. Anyway fords of the sixties
and seventies kick.


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## nytreeman (Apr 28, 2008)

Huskies & Old Fords !!!!!!!!!


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## InTheFlow (Apr 28, 2008)

"If it has a gov-lock in the rear, even better."

What is a gov-lock?

EDIT: "From 73 to probably the early 80's, GM's had 16.5" wheels." 

Does that mean that 16" wheels will not fit the GMs made in those years or are they interchangeable with the 16.5s?


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## nytreeman (Apr 28, 2008)

my next project,and this will take a lil while my 1971 Ford C-700 with a 5TD-52 PHI hi-ranger


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## InTheFlow (Apr 28, 2008)

So condensing what I've learned, here is what I'm looking for in a GM/Chevy:


'73-87 GM 3/4 ton longbed. With a NP 205 transfer case, 4 speed trans (SM465 opt code M20) and 4 wheel drive w 16” wheels. 

If an Auto Trans, I’d want a Turbo 350 or Turbo 400 but not the 700-R4 overdrives

14 bolt full floater rear axle or Dana 70

GVW on the drivers door tag will have 8600 (Camper or Trailering Special) on it for the 13” rear brakes

They’re called K20, 2500, Silverado, Scottsdale, or Cheyenne also known as the "Rounded Line"

Look about right?

If I go with Ford, basically anything in the 73-79 year range. That about right too?

Thanks!


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## Peacock (Apr 28, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> [*]If an Auto Trans, I’d want a Turbo 350 or Turbo 400 but not the 700-R4 overdrives



Personally I wouldn't even consider a TH350 for a wood hauler. It doesn't have any greater torque capacity than the 700R4. I've personally rebuilt too many of them that gave up the ghost a bit too early. The parts are tiny to those in the TH400.

400 all the way for auto's. Even then I'd much rather have the SM465. It's bulletproof and then some.


----------



## gink595 (Apr 28, 2008)

Nice collection of old Fords, They are nice, I wish I lived closer to you I have crap load of parts for them ol dudes. Me and a friend used to buy and sell them things like they where candy, always on the look out for Dana 60 fronts. I love the High Boys and their 8' long front drive shaft.(exagerated, not much though) The bucket truck will be a cool setup. It's good to see someone that restores those trucks instead of scrapping them out. Nice Bronco, I believe someday that will be a collectors item seeing they were only built a couple years.


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## 046 (Apr 28, 2008)

so how much can you get a fixer-upper hi-ranger for? 



nytreeman said:


> my next project,and this will take a lil while my 1971 Ford C-700 with a 5TD-52 PHI hi-ranger


----------



## Sprig (Apr 28, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> So condensing what I've learned, here is what I'm looking for in a GM/Chevy:
> 
> 
> '73-87 GM 3/4 ton longbed. With a NP 205 transfer case, 4 speed trans (SM465 opt code M20) and 4 wheel drive w 16” wheels.
> ...


I cast my vote in the Chev/GM 3/4-1ton arena, small block 350, and yup on the turbo 350-400 if auto. If ya go Ford try to avoid 390's, good engines but very thirsty. If ya go Dodge, hm, most of the oldies around here spend as much time in the drive-ways as on da road but most of the 318's seem the most reliable but a bit anemic. What ever you choose take the time to inspect it well, comp., frame rust, brakes and susp. etc., lots of 'good' work trucks around and even some that have sat a bit can be a good find with a bit of TLC. If you have a bud who's mechanically inclined hire him for a bit to go over a beast or two so you know where ya stand. My opinion and stickin' to it 



Serge


----------



## streeter (Apr 28, 2008)

Sprig said:


> I cast my vote in the Chev/GM 3/4-1ton arena, small block 350, and yup on the turbo 350-400 if auto. If ya go Ford try to avoid 390's, good engines but very thirsty. If ya go Dodge, hm, most of the oldies around here spend as much time in the drive-ways as on da road but most of the 318's seem the most reliable but a bit anemic. What ever you choose take the time to inspect it well, comp., frame rust, brakes and susp. etc., lots of 'good' work trucks around and even some that have sat a bit can be a good find with a bit of TLC. If you have a bud who's mechanically inclined hire him for a bit to go over a beast or two so you know where ya stand. My opinion and stickin' to it
> 
> 
> 
> Serge



On behalf of all the Fords that still live  on a old chevy   Dodge, well if built before 80's are good. Atleast my ford will have a frame around my steering box when I need it and the frame will not pull apart at the spring mounts 

sorry, I needed to give a dig after my work day 

Doug


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## nytreeman (Apr 28, 2008)

046 said:


> so how much can you get a fixer-upper hi-ranger for?



I bought it from friends that have one of the bigger tree services around here,they do crane and bucket work for me at times,it was an old truck that had been sitting for 10 years in one of there barns,the truck needs a huge amount of work,the boom needs re cabling and the cylinders need repacking plus new hoses,bolts, pins but it still all works,plus I got an f-600 with a 48 phi with no engine and a bent upper boom for parts and it was cheap,really cheap both for under 5 grand but it will cost me probably $6-8,000 plus the time,lots of time,to make one solid truck from the two and to have it back to where I want it to be and trust it,I don't use them til they're done,my trucks might be old but they're not junk


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## gink595 (Apr 28, 2008)

streeter said:


> On behalf of all the Fords that still live  on a old chevy   Dodge, well if built before 80's are good. Atleast my ford will have a frame around my steering box when I need it and the frame will not pull apart at the spring mounts
> 
> sorry, I needed to give a dig after my work day
> 
> Doug



That is an observation I have made, I remember in the early ninty's there used to be a ton of those old Chevy/Fords running around(70's) Now I hardley see one (Chevy) and when I do I get excited because they seem so rare, but because I pay attention to such things I still see a lot of 70's fords running around, I'm not talking about restored ones but rused out ones. I just don't see the 70's Chevy's anymore. I couldn't believe how many old Fords I seen out in Wyoming and Montana that people were still using on daily basis when I visisted, there has to be a reason??


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## chowdozer (Apr 28, 2008)

gink595 said:


> That is an observation I have made, I remember in the early ninty's there used to be a ton of those old Chevy/Fords running around(70's) Now I hardley see one (Chevy) and when I do I get excited because they seem so rare, but because I pay attention to such things I still see a lot of 70's fords running around, I'm not talking about restored ones but rused out ones. I just don't see the 70's Chevy's anymore. I couldn't believe how many old Fords I seen out in Wyoming and Montana that people were still using on daily basis when I visisted, there has to be a reason??



It's exactly the opposite here. Very rarely do I see an older Ford or Dodge but I see 4 or 5 GM's a day.


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## ropensaddle (Apr 28, 2008)

chowdozer said:


> It's exactly the opposite here. Very rarely do I see an older Ford or Dodge but I see 4 or 5 GM's a day.



Must be a pnw thing and I don't understand


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## 046 (Apr 29, 2008)

deal of the month on craigslist Tulsa, lasted only a few minutes. I called at 7:45 am and missed it. 

a clean 1994 Cummins 12valve turbo diesel 3/4 ton for $3200. 
these sell routinely for $8k+ ... if you can find one that cheap

94-98 12v cummins turbo diesel are the most desirable years and sell for same as much newer models.


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## ropensaddle (Apr 29, 2008)

046 said:


> deal of the month on craigslist Tulsa, lasted only a few minutes. I called at 7:45 am and missed it.
> 
> a clean 1994 Cummins 12valve turbo diesel 3/4 ton for $3200.
> these sell routinely for $8k+ ... if you can find one that cheap
> ...


Injector pumps bad but still good trucks!


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## Brushwacker (Apr 29, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> I need a truck for getting firewood from the mountains (personal use). Probably about 30 - 45 minute drive one way. It needs to be as reliable as they get but easy to work on with easy access to inexpensive parts for when I do need to work on it.
> 
> Budget is no more than 1K so I figure that means its going to be old and have high mileage, hence the reliability requirement. Would prefer a straight axle, if possible. Would also be great if it could pull a trailer so that I could get more wood per trip! :jawdrop:
> 
> ...



I like small pick ups best for chasing firewood in the woods. You can snake inbetween trees easiar and the same goes if encountering difficult terrain. Its easiar to turn them around and they are easy to hand winch, jack up etc..Loading and unloading is done easiar also. They just don't haul as much.
One set up I had for many years was a 87 Nissian short bed 2 wheel drive with air shocks. I mounted a large home made tool box in the front of the bed high enough a snowmobiles front would fit under it. That gave me full bed capacity + I made side boards about 10 inches high that could be put on and off easily. Easily hauled 1/3 cord of dead wood if not very wet. That truck had a low gear ratio and good power better then the toyota long bed I presently use but not as good as gas milage. Both are 87 4 cylinders. The Nissian had almost 200,000 miles when the frame went bad with rust. I replaced it with a 91 Isuzu 4wd 4 cylinder which the frame went bad in it within a couple years. I recently found a Isuzu with a good frame almost identical and used the engine out of the 1st one. It is powerful as the Nissian and has 4 low which is great for pulling and adverse conditions. Needs some help in the suspension for weight so I got some air shocks. I ve been using the Toyota for almost 3 years which does hold a good load well with cheap helper springs. Its a bit under powered with the extra weight but gets the job done and is very easy on gas. It turned 299,000 about 2 weeks ago on the original motor , transmission and clutch, no overhauls.
In the mountains I would go for a lower gear ratio like the Nissian if 2wd.
4wd would be a great advantage if you can find 1 in your budget. Nissan and Toyota seem reliable as they get,the frames do rust bad in some areas especially where salt is used,not sure on other makes. I would have a hard time trusting a Ford but wouldn't hesitate on a GM pickup, they treated me well and the S10 seems to do well for the people I know have them. Their frames do not rust like the foreign pick ups.


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## InTheFlow (Apr 29, 2008)

Well I think I might have found one but it is an '89...what do ya'll think about this one?

http://denver.craigslist.org/car/628957590.html

For those who would prefer not to click on the link, here is the meat of the listing:

_"1989 Chevy Cheyenne 1-ton truck. 138,000 miles, 4 speed. New GM 350 HD motor at 97,000 mi. New throttle body and fuel pump at 137,000. Good runner, reliable vehicle, no accidents. Passes emissions. 9-foot utility bed with lots of drawers, shelves and locking compartments to keep your tools safe. Good body and new comfy seat upholstery. Truck is fitted with heavy-duty suspension and HD trailer hitch and brake wiring."_


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## doubletodd (Apr 29, 2008)

ok truck but I would go 4x4


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## Mike Van (Apr 29, 2008)

For 1250.00 thats not bad - You could take the utility body off, maybe sell it & build your own flatbed. For the times you just might need 4wd, a set of tire chains on that truck would do wonders. I know, put 'em on, take 'em off, but what a difference they make.


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## InTheFlow (Apr 29, 2008)

I didn't realize it wasn't a 4x4. In that case, I'll probably pass on it. Especially considering that I won't have access to the full bed due to the utility boxes.

Anyone know about these? Any good? 

1971 Highboy Ford 3/4 ton 4x4 http://cosprings.craigslist.org/car/658577239.html

I also found a "1974 chevy 454 turbo tranny run and drives good strong motor nice wheels and tires."

What does 'turbo' do on a manual transmission?

Thanks!


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## Peacock (Apr 29, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> I didn't realize it wasn't a 4x4. In that case, I'll probably pass on it. Especially considering that I won't have access to the full bed due to the utility boxes.
> 
> Anyone know about these? Any good?
> 
> ...



TH= Turbo Hydramatic

That's what GM called all their old auto's. Hydramatic was GM interal auto branch.


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## nytreeman (Apr 29, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> Anyone know about these? Any good?
> 1971 Highboy Ford 3/4 ton 4x4 http://cosprings.craigslist.org/car/658577239.html













:jawdrop: Wow,thats a great price on that Hi-boy I'm partial to Fords but that is one of the toughest 4x4 trucks ever made I have a '73 and would be jumpin' on that one if I was closer


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## nytreeman (Apr 29, 2008)

I'd call on that Hi-boy it looks solid from what you can see in the pics,it could have an 6 or 8 cylinder,If its original it would have at least a Dana 44HD front end,and a Dana 60 rear,NP 435 4 spd with 1st granny gear,heavy duty NP divorced transfer case and a factory 4" lift Tough trucks,I haul wood with mine plow snow shes a tank


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## InTheFlow (Apr 29, 2008)

thanks nytreeman!

Anyone know if they are fairly easy/straight forward to work on? What about parts? Are they readily available and inexpensive?


----------



## nytreeman (Apr 29, 2008)

There pretty simple to work on, lots room, pre-emission so no mess of relays and sensors,it would have drum brakes on all 4 wheels,Parts aren't bad price wise,certain parts are harder to find,but the majority of parts are the same for quite a few years so their pretty common


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## Stihl051master (Apr 29, 2008)

I can also vouch for the ease of working on those OLD fords, I'm a chevy guy myslef but I spent a ton of time in high school under the hood of my buddy's old Ford. We could get home on Friday after school, pull an engine, replace it with a different one, and have it running again so he could drive it to work on Saturday. (We had to do this quite often - there was always a "better" engine around he would pick up). We went from a 300-6 to a 302, to a 351, then back to the 300-6 when gas prices went up, then back to a different 302.... On and on but it was a good tough truck and very easy to work on and get parts for very cheaply!


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## nytreeman (Apr 29, 2008)

Get a Chilton or Haynes manual that will help there not great but better than nothing,theres also a couple great Ford truck site too for info and specs fordification.com is primarily 67-73 and ford-trucks.com covers lots of years


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## 046 (Apr 29, 2008)

nope.... 12valve cummins have mechanical fuel pumps which are just about bullet proof vs 98.5-2002 with electronic VP44 = junk (fuel injection pump) stay away from 98.5-2002 cummins trucks. 

this is one of the main reason why 94-98 12v are the most desirable cummins trucks. if you find a low mileage 12valve... they sell for same as a much newer cummins truck. it's not unusual to see someone sell off their 2007 CTD, only to buy back an old 12 valve cummins. 

it's nothing to see a 12v cummins go 500k miles...



ropensaddle said:


> Injector pumps bad but still good trucks!


----------



## gink595 (Apr 29, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> thanks nytreeman!
> 
> Anyone know if they are fairly easy/straight forward to work on? What about parts? Are they readily available and inexpensive?



Yes they are. They are going to be as easy as you can find, plus since you have the divorced transfer case you can put about any type of motor tranny in these things. The one thing I would look at with the high boys is the power assited cylinder on the power steering, The are a weird and hard to find some parts for. I converted one to a dana 60 front and a 78-79 power steering system, I won't suggest that. That looks to be a very nice truck for the age and what it is, High boys are cool. I would buy that that in a second, They are tough old trucks.


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## Peacock (Apr 29, 2008)

046 said:


> nope.... 12valve cummins have mechanical fuel pumps which are just about bullet proof vs 98.5-2002 with electronic VP44 = junk (fuel injection pump) stay away from 98.5-2002 cummins trucks.
> 
> this is one of the main reason why 94-98 12v are the most desirable cummins trucks. if you find a low mileage 12valve... they sell for same as a much newer cummins truck. it's not unusual to see someone sell off their 2007 CTD, only to buy back an old 12 valve cummins.
> 
> it's nothing to see a 12v cummins go 500k miles...




Very true.

Except that the injection pump is not the real problem on the 24v engines. It's the junk transfer pump that dies unknowingly and kills the injection pump. We do 3-4 per month here at the dealer. Dodge has a new transfer pump design that is supposed to be the 'fix' for it all.


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## extraspecialman (Apr 29, 2008)

80-86 Ford F250 is very common and parts are plenty.The 351 Windsor is a way better engine than a 351 M.Most still had carbs and are easy to work on.The Chevrolets that model had the ol Quadrajunk carb and were tough ol trucks,but really sucked on gas mileage.Not to put Dodge down,but Dodge parts in those years cost a fortune.I had a 85 F250,351 W,4 speed 4x4,had open diffs so it didnt go the best,but would creep at snail speed in 4 lo,which comes in nice in the woods.An automatic will out go a straight drive,but wont crawl or hold back goin down hill like a 4 speed.Go full size,2 tons of wood is nothin on a heavy duty 3/4 ton,cant do that with any Jap truck.


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## Peacock (Apr 29, 2008)

extraspecialman said:


> The Chevrolets that model had the ol Quadrajunk carb and were tough ol trucks,but really sucked on gas mileage.



I'd take a QuadraJet over a Holley everyday for reliability.

Good carb with a bad rep.


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## gink595 (Apr 29, 2008)

Peacock said:


> I'd take a QuadraJet over a Holley everyday for reliability.
> 
> Good carb with a bad rep.



Really? Must have had some bad luck with Holleys!


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## Zodiac45 (Apr 29, 2008)

nytreeman said:


> I'd call on that Hi-boy it looks solid from what you can see in the pics,it could have an 6 or 8 cylinder,If its original it would have at least a Dana 44HD front end,and a Dana 60 rear,NP 435 4 spd with 1st granny gear,heavy duty NP divorced transfer case and a factory 4" lift Tough trucks,I haul wood with mine plow snow shes a tank



+1 Me too. If that's as solid as it looks you could do a whole lot worse. Check the floors (no holes) make sure the gas tank/tanks don't leak. Hard to beat those Hi-boys.


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## Peacock (Apr 29, 2008)

gink595 said:


> Really? Must have had some bad luck with Holleys!



No, just worked on too many of them. Too much time at a speed shop removing good working Carter's and QJ's from engines only to install Holley's that never seem perfect.


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## gink595 (Apr 29, 2008)

Peacock said:


> No, just worked on too many of them. Too much time at a speed shop removing good working Carter's and QJ's from engines only to install Holley's that never seem perfect.



Wasn't SuperShops in Ft. Wayne was it? I never had any problems with the holleys other than stuff I caused!!! Though it did seem like I screwed with the Holleys all the time, but that was of choice.


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## Peacock (Apr 29, 2008)

haha... 

Nope, Richmond Performance Center.

Chuck Reicart runs the place. He used to build Pro Stock engines. Pretty smart feller.


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## InTheFlow (Apr 29, 2008)

I called about the ford. He said that the engine is a 360 V8 Small Block with about 45-50K miles on it since the rebuild. He said that the tranny & transfer case are both stock. The only thing he's had a problem with over the past 6 years he's owned it is the points needed to be replaced.

I asked about the brakes. He said that he put on new brakes about a year and a half ago. The brake work that needs to be done is the Wheel Cylinder needs to be replaced as it is leaking brake fluid. He said the pedal will currently go to the floor.

Well, how does that sound? How big of a job is replacing a wheel cylinder? 

Thanks again for all the help guys!


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## Peacock (Apr 29, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> I called about the ford. He said that the engine is a 360 V8 Small Block with about 45-50K miles on it since the rebuild. He said that the tranny & transfer case are both stock. The only thing he's had a problem with over the past 6 years he's owned it is the points needed to be replaced.
> 
> I asked about the brakes. He said that he put on new brakes about a year and a half ago. The brake work that needs to be done is the Wheel Cylinder needs to be replaced as it is leaking brake fluid. He said the pedal will currently go to the floor.
> 
> ...



Wheel cylinder is cake. Assuming the lines aren't rotted out. Maybe a 1hr job with someone to help you bleed the brakes.

Probably $50 in parts total.


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## gink595 (Apr 29, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> I called about the ford. He said that the engine is a 360 V8 Small Block with about 45-50K miles on it since the rebuild. He said that the tranny & transfer case are both stock. The only thing he's had a problem with over the past 6 years he's owned it is the points needed to be replaced.
> 
> I asked about the brakes. He said that he put on new brakes about a year and a half ago. The brake work that needs to be done is the Wheel Cylinder needs to be replaced as it is leaking brake fluid. He said the pedal will currently go to the floor.
> 
> ...




Agree with peacock, wheel cylinder an easy fix, I think those years might have had drum brakes in the front also. Not that big of a deal. Points are an easy deal though finding people to fix them is getting tougher. They are very simple though.And a 360 is the same design as the 390 motor I wouldn't call it a small block, not at all. Good motor.


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## InTheFlow (Apr 30, 2008)

Hey Guys, thanks again. 

I took a look at it today. http://cosprings.craigslist.org/car/658577239.html 
The underside actually looks pretty good to my untrained/inexperienced eye except that it is leaking gear oil from two places. I think its coming from the rear differential and either the xfer case or the transmission.

Neither are particularly fast leaks. The front one doesn't even have a spot on the ground. The rear leak is a bit faster. I wasn't able to hear the engine running or see it as the owner wasn't available at the time. Inside the cab are a few cosmetic issues with a jerry rigged handle for the shifters, which I'd consider minor.

There is more rust on the body than I expected but on the front right is a spot that has more severe rust. I couldn't put my finger through it or anything.

I've heard that the xfer cases are expensive to replace. Is that true?

Today I looked again on Craigslist and found a 73 highboy available as well. http://cosprings.craigslist.org/car/662460691.html 
Would it be better to get the '73 if it is in comparable or better condition considering that I'll need to buy tires & do brake work on it?

Other possibilities are: 

1986 F-150 http://denver.craigslist.org/car/661984957.html
This guy says it can go places most 4x4s can't go. How would that be possible?

1978 Ford f-150 http://cosprings.craigslist.org/car/661433492.html 
I'm not sure if this is 4wd or not...

1974 Chevy 454 "1974 chevy 454 turbo tranny run and drives good strong motor nice wheels and tires"

Advice is appreciated.


----------



## Stihl051master (Apr 30, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> Hey Guys, thanks again.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I've heard that the xfer cases are expensive to replace. Is that true?

They are not too bad around here, a good NP205 can be found quite easily for around $100 or less. Just be sure to check it out and make sure the shafts aren't all whipped out if you ever have to get one. 

1986 F-150 http://denver.craigslist.org/car/661984957.html
This guy says it can go places most 4x4s can't go. How would that be possible?

I'll tell you how it's possible - that guy is a FILTHY LIAR!!!! I wouldn't buy that truck just for the fact the owner is delusional. 

And, IMO you may want to take a look at that 73. It looks really good in the pics and $800 is a good price. 
I can't get over how good the bodies look on those old Colorado Fords! Here in Michigan we often say that they come with "factory rust". Even the 02's are starting to rust out badly here - we'd never see an old one that solid unless it was never driven and kept in heated storage!!


----------



## extraspecialman (Apr 30, 2008)

if that F150 has locking or air diffs,it will indeed go where most wont go,but if not,I agree with 051 master,the seller is a liar


----------



## nytreeman (May 1, 2008)

Stihl051master said:


> And, IMO you may want to take a look at that 73. It looks really good in the pics and $800 is a good price.
> I can't get over how good the bodies look on those old Colorado Fords! Here in Michigan we often say that they come with "factory rust". Even the 02's are starting to rust out badly here - we'd never see an old one that solid unless it was never driven and kept in heated storage!!



The '73 sounds like a good truck,we have the same problem here in our part of the rust belt  ,snow and salt eats everything away.

That '73 hi-boy would have the same frame and running gear as the 71, just a different cab,either one would be great work trucks plus they sit high with lots of clearance plus they're heavy 3/4 ton trucks gvw is 8990 lbs I believe. Stay away from 1/2 ton trucks if your hauling wood and offroading it loaded unless you really beef it up, springs etc., it will never take it,been there broken springs and cracked frames suck:censored:


----------



## ropensaddle (May 1, 2008)

046 said:


> nope.... 12valve cummins have mechanical fuel pumps which are just about bullet proof vs 98.5-2002 with electronic VP44 = junk (fuel injection pump) stay away from 98.5-2002 cummins trucks.
> 
> this is one of the main reason why 94-98 12v are the most desirable cummins trucks. if you find a low mileage 12valve... they sell for same as a much newer cummins truck. it's not unusual to see someone sell off their 2007 CTD, only to buy back an old 12 valve cummins.
> 
> it's nothing to see a 12v cummins go 500k miles...



Ok I knew it was near the era and I now wander as I have
purchased a new Dodge 3500 any info on the new 6.7 give
me the good the bad and the ugly?


----------



## Peacock (May 1, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> Ok I knew it was near the era and I now wander as I have
> purchased a new Dodge 3500 any info on the new 6.7 give
> me the good the bad and the ugly?



We've had a couple with bad EGR valves, but that is about it.


----------



## ropensaddle (May 1, 2008)

Peacock said:


> We've had a couple with bad EGR valves, but that is about it.



A couple, did it strand the owner? I traded in my superduty because
in under 50000 mile it left me on the highway stranded twice ! It infuriates me to spend 45k only to have to walk it was the EGR cooler that did it! I am trying to work on getting some of my costs of being stranded out of state back on a warranted problem and seem to be up against a wall of bs! I am thinking of getting a friggin lawyer, or going to Dearborn to personally express my feelings to the CEO!


----------



## gink595 (May 1, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> A couple, did it strand the owner? I traded in my superduty because
> in under 50000 mile it left me on the highway stranded twice ! It infuriates me to spend 45k only to have to walk it was the EGR cooler that did it! I am trying to work on getting some of my costs of being stranded out of state back on a warranted problem and seem to be up against a wall of bs! I am thinking of getting a friggin lawyer, or going to Dearborn to personally express my feelings to the CEO!



Must have been the 6.0 liter! The best diesel ford made they aborted 7.3!


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## epicklein22 (May 1, 2008)

7.3's and older 12v cummins are the best. I see them all the time, especially old ratty cummins, they just keep going. I worked at a campground for 3 years and saw plenty of diesels. 7.3 were the most present, then the junky 6.0, duramax and lastly cummins. Everytime I saw a 6.0, I would ask the owner how he was liking it. They either hated it or were happy with it, but waiting for it to break. Newer Cummins always seemed to have tranny problems. Personally, I like 70's and 80's ford trucks, but would be happy with a chevy or late 80's dodge for a beater truck. My ideal truck would be a 98 cummins or 99/00 7.3. Good luck with your search, I would go with one of those hi-boys if it was me. They look like they would be up to the task of halling wood.


----------



## Peacock (May 1, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> A couple, did it strand the owner? I traded in my superduty because
> in under 50000 mile it left me on the highway stranded twice ! It infuriates me to spend 45k only to have to walk it was the EGR cooler that did it! I am trying to work on getting some of my costs of being stranded out of state back on a warranted problem and seem to be up against a wall of bs! I am thinking of getting a friggin lawyer, or going to Dearborn to personally express my feelings to the CEO!



No stranding. Just sets a light.

I left Ford about a year after the 6.0L came out. What a pile of......

I was never really all the impressed with the 7.3 either though. I've replaced a whole bunch of ICP's, IPR's, injectors, glow plugs, glow plug relays, fuel heaters, and turbo's on them. Not to mention the pile of dung 4R100/E4OD.

We don't do too much to the 12v Cummins, but the 24v and newer common rail models have some 'issues'.


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## gink595 (May 1, 2008)

Peacock said:


> No stranding. Just sets a light.
> 
> I left Ford about a year after the 6.0L came out. What a pile of......
> 
> ...



Haha, everything on that list except turbo I've replaced, I see you didn't mention the cam position semsor they were faulty. For sure the Glow plug relay, I have to replace mine right now, I tested it last night because of the hard starts. But I didn't have to replace the tranny until 200,000 and it got used so I wasn't to upset or surprised at that.


----------



## Peacock (May 1, 2008)

gink595 said:


> Haha, everything on that list except turbo I've replaced, I see you didn't mention the cam position semsor they were faulty. For sure the Glow plug relay, I have to replace mine right now, I tested it last night because of the hard starts. But I didn't have to replace the tranny until 200,000 and it got used so I wasn't to upset or surprised at that.



How could I forget the cam sensor? They had about 3 different designs before they got one that lasted.


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## ropensaddle (May 1, 2008)

Here is my best firewood hauler and it is the best truck ever built
in my opinion. I wish I could buy a new one built the same today!


----------



## gink595 (May 1, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> Here is my best firewood hauler and it is the best truck ever built
> in my opinion. I wish I could buy a new one built the same today!



ahhhh, I smell an old bronco, a cool High boy and a real Bronco I envy you!:censored: I'm really jealous. And a nice wood hauler WTF, ford hog!!


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## stihl sawing (May 1, 2008)

046 said:


> nope.... 98.5-2002 with electronic VP44 = junk (fuel injection pump) stay away from 98.5-2002 cummins trucks.


Mine is a 2000 dodge, The first thing you need to do with them is replace the stock fuel system. I put a fass fuel system on and don't worry about it any more. I replaced 5 of them crappy lift pumps before the fass. The reason the injector pumps went bad is because the lift pumps would get weak and make the injector pump work harder. The most pressure i could get out of a stock lift pump was 14 lbs and it would fade really fast. The fass has held22 lbs for 40000 miles and will not drop below 20 at wot. There are other fuel systems now as mine is about three years old.


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## ropensaddle (May 1, 2008)

gink595 said:


> ahhhh, I smell an old bronco, a cool High boy and a real Bronco I envy you!:censored: I'm really jealous. And a nice wood hauler WTF, ford hog!!



The hauler is mack built r modle like in mad max! It is 81 and a million
miles hits strong as day it come off the line a very tough customer
I guess I am kinda a ford hog but see, I buy them put too much into them
and then don't want to sell them! I keep thinking of finishing body but know
I will scratch them up if I did:hmm3grin2orange: You have not seen them
all either!


----------



## gink595 (May 1, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> The hauler is mack built r modle like in mad max! It is 81 and a million
> miles hits strong as day it come off the line a very tough customer
> I guess I am kinda a ford hog but see, I buy them put too much into them
> and then don't want to sell them! I keep thinking of finishing body but know
> ...



Yeah I seen it was a Mack after I posted I got to distracted at the bronco It's probably a good thing I don't live closer for one you'd have a new best friend and second I'd be midnight shopping 
I used to buy a ton of ford trucks 73-79 styles. But now they are all gone except for some parts, I was an idiot for selling them.


----------



## stihl sawing (May 1, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> Here is my best firewood hauler and it is the best truck ever built
> in my opinion. I wish I could buy a new one built the same today!


Man, would that ever make hauling easier. Is that a crane to pick the wood up with. Nice, can't blame ya for wanting another.


----------



## ropensaddle (May 1, 2008)

gink595 said:


> Yeah I seen it was a Mack after I posted I got to distracted at the bronco It's probably a good thing I don't live closer for one you'd have a new best friend and second I'd be midnight shopping
> I used to buy a ton of ford trucks 73-79 styles. But now they are all gone except for some parts, I was an idiot for selling them.



I got a good 78 f350 400 4 speed flatbed with pto winch set up
for a set of poles! I don't worry about midnight shoppers much
if they get past the gate they are on candid camera and then
the next thing they see is an ugly man in underwear toting iron!
:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## ropensaddle (May 1, 2008)

stihl sawing said:


> Man, would that ever make hauling easier. Is that a crane to pick the wood up with. Nice, can't blame ya for wanting another.



It is a grapple gets brush, wood, even loads cars to be smashed


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## gink595 (May 1, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> I got a good 78 f350 400 4 speed flatbed with pto winch set up
> for a set of poles! I don't worry about midnight shoppers much
> if they get past the gate they are on candid camera and then
> the next thing they see is an ugly man in underwear toting iron!
> :hmm3grin2orange:



Poles? Haha Thanks for the tip, looks like I'll boost it while your at the post office!!! So are you saying you'd trade the truck for some poles


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## ropensaddle (May 1, 2008)

gink595 said:


> Poles? Haha Thanks for the tip, looks like I'll boost it while your at the post office!!! So are you saying you'd trade the truck for some poles



No gink, gin poles to load logs motors etc.



Ohhhh yeah ps watch out for the dead falls:hmm3grin2orange:


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## gink595 (May 1, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> No gink, gin poles to load logs motors etc.



Gotcha, I didn't realize people still used those, I know they were popular in post and beam barn raising years ago with block and tackles. See how much I know


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## ropensaddle (May 1, 2008)

I want a good aframe built for it, the 10ton pto winch would bend
most pipe with loads of say 2500 lbs! I am thinking of square tubing
for the crane!


----------



## gink595 (May 1, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> I want a good aframe built for it, the 10ton pto winch would bend
> most pipe with loads of say 2500 lbs! I am thinking of square tubing
> for the crane!



Got a picture of your current setup? Sounds kinda cool. I don't know what I'd use one for but sounds like some thing intersting, besides you never know. 20 ton pto is a lot of pulling power especially if you double it with a tackle block. I had a 12# ramsey and thought it was ok kinda slow under load.


----------



## ropensaddle (May 1, 2008)

gink595 said:


> Got a picture of your current setup? Sounds kinda cool. I don't know what I'd use one for but sounds like some thing intersting, besides you never know.



I will photo it soon so you can see what I mean. Uses would be
raise a log eight feet off the ground and load it on a trailer 
pull trees over,trucks outta mud put engines in! On and on
the only limitation is imagination and if the truck started a wheelie!


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## 046 (May 2, 2008)

here's a Ford F700 dump truck detroit diesel for $3,750. it's geared pretty low.

just popped up on tulsa craigstlist
http://tulsa.craigslist.org/grd/664371653.html


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## Sprig (May 2, 2008)

046 said:


> here's a Ford F700 dump truck detroit diesel for $3,750. it's geared pretty low.
> 
> just popped up on tulsa craigstlist
> http://tulsa.craigslist.org/grd/664371653.html


Thats alot of truck for under 4g's, a good price if its running good, just what I'd need up here for firewood (especially looking at the dumping part *sigh*), don't think it'd take much to go a slightly higher gear ratio but I'm not familiar with fords. Still a cool unit, me likey! 



Serge


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## jmatuska (May 2, 2008)

*1985 Ford F100 w/3 speed*

I picked up a 1985 Ford F100 (inline 6 cylinder engine) with a 3 speed on the column manual transmission for $500 that I use to haul firewood and hauled all the lumber used to built my house with. This is not a powerhouse of a truck and only 2WD and 1/2 Ton, but it gets the job done and gets 20 MPG. 

Pluses:
Great fuel Economy (20 MPG)

Lots of space under the hood to work (inline 6 cylinder engine) you can almost stand inside the engine compartment there is that much extra space.

Easy to work on

Parts are common and easy to get

minuses:
Not a lot of power with this engine, but enough to get you where you need to go.

Only 2WD

only 1/2 ton so don't overload too much (overload shocks help a lot)

These all being said, this is a great beater pickup that gets good milleage will haul a full load of wood is easy to work on that I have no plans on selling anytime soon.


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## gink595 (May 2, 2008)

jmatuska said:


> I picked up a 1985 Ford F100 (inline 6 cylinder engine) with a 3 speed on the column manual transmission for $500 that I use to haul firewood and hauled all the lumber used to built my house with. This is not a powerhouse of a truck and only 2WD and 1/2 Ton, but it gets the job done and gets 20 MPG.
> 
> Pluses:
> Great fuel Economy (20 MPG)
> ...




Is it a 1/2 ton? I didn't think the F100 quite made it to the 1/2 ton rating, so what is the F150 for? because that is fords 1/2?? Just curious


----------



## gink595 (May 2, 2008)

Hey In The Flo, did you buy that high boy yet? You should really consider it


----------



## jmatuska (May 2, 2008)

Interesting, you may be right, it does have the full size Ford bed and I can haul a full load of wood, but what you say about the F150 being half ton makes perfect sense. 

However, I just did a web search and from what I am seeing the F100 is listed as a 1/2 ton and the F150 as a Heavy Half Ton pickup. Either way it looks like the F150 is heavier than the F100 but not by much.


----------



## gink595 (May 2, 2008)

jmatuska said:


> Interesting, you may be right, it does have the full size Ford bed and I can haul a full load of wood, but what you say about the F150 being half ton makes perfect sense.
> 
> However, I just did a web search and from what I am seeing the F100 is listed as a 1/2 ton and the F150 as a Heavy Half Ton pickup. Either way it looks like the F150 is heavier than the F100 but not by much.



My old man used to have one when I was a kid, I just remember someting different about those trucks and can't remember what it was.


----------



## jmatuska (May 2, 2008)

I actually bought that one from my old man. I tried to talk him out of his F250 that runs on propane, but he didn't want to sell it.


----------



## InTheFlow (May 2, 2008)

I asked my mechanic to check out both of the highboys. The prognosis wasn't good. He said with the multiple issues each had, that I'd need to immediately expect to spend as much on repairs as I would pay for either truck.

So, the search goes on...

Now I've got my eye on this one:

"1976 Dodge Pickup with canopy, 2 gas tanks, leather interior, sliding glass rear window, 4 speed with rebuilt 308 engine. Motor has less than 70,000 miles on it. The tires still have really good tread."

I've emailed the owner to ask more about the truck and will see what I find out. Anyone know anything about Dodge's 308 engine?


----------



## beerman6 (May 2, 2008)

318 yes,08  

318s are great engines


----------



## extraspecialman (May 2, 2008)

318 is a good motor,never heard of 308.Dodge has always had some fine engines,but thats about where it ends.The rest of the truck is junk.Ive seen brand new Dodge trucks roll off the line with body lines that didnt even match up.Newer model auto trannys absolutely suck ass.Expect 80,000 if your lucky.


----------



## 046 (May 2, 2008)

if your going to get a dodge truck ... go with a first gen cummins 88-93. there's was an excellent one that went for $3500 last week. 



InTheFlow said:


> I asked my mechanic to check out both of the highboys. The prognosis wasn't good. He said with the multiple issues each had, that I'd need to immediately expect to spend as much on repairs as I would pay for either truck.
> 
> So, the search goes on...
> 
> ...


----------



## beerman6 (May 2, 2008)

I read that has the REBUILT motor has less than 70k?

Them old Dodges are great work horses and are fairly easy to work on.


----------



## InTheFlow (May 2, 2008)

beerman6 said:


> I read that has the REBUILT motor has less than 70k?



That is my assumption as well, however I'll clarify with the owner when I speak to or get an email from them.

Thanks for the help all!


----------



## ropensaddle (May 2, 2008)

I would strongly suggest saving more dollars to invest in a truck.
1000.00 would buy a good truck in the early eighties but we are
in 2007 a better price would be around 3500 for a gaser and 9000.
for a decent diesel. It is worth extra spent at purchase to get quality
used vehicle! I am not trying to discourage you merely suggesting
a more realistic price. The sort of deal you are trying to get would
be family to family, like father to son in my opinion.


----------



## nytreeman (May 2, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> I asked my mechanic to check out both of the highboys. The prognosis wasn't good. He said with the multiple issues each had, that I'd need to immediately expect to spend as much on repairs as I would pay for either truck.
> 
> So, the search goes on...
> 
> ...



well all I can say is if you think a little brake work is beyond your capacity and you think a grand or 2 is too much then you sure don't want a used truck


----------



## arlen (May 3, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> That is my assumption as well, however I'll clarify with the owner when I speak to or get an email from them.
> 
> Thanks for the help all!



I went to Craigs List San Diego today and looked up pickup trucks. I saw a 1981 Chevy duly crew cab that the owner was trying to sell for $ 350.- dollars he said if no one bought it he was going to a salvage yard. I called up the number and the truck was sold. I was just surprised to see a one ton truck for sale for $350.- dollars. :monkey:


----------



## gink595 (May 3, 2008)

nytreeman said:


> well all I can say is if you think a little brake work is beyond your capacity and you think a grand or 2 is too much then you sure don't want a used truck



Hahahaha! Thats very true.


----------



## 046 (May 3, 2008)

dead on! 

that's why the first gen 3/4 ton dodge diesel I posted about earlier for $3,500 was such a bargain. it had 150k miles or just getting started for a cummins. new tires etc and needed nothing. 3/4 ton cummins will pull 20k+ lbs with no sweat....

folks that cannot handle maintenance items like brakes, clutch, tuneup, tires, wheel bearings, etc ... should not be getting a used vehicle with high miles. 

if you had to pay a mechanic at say $75 an hour + parts to fix above maintenance list. you'd been better off buying a lower mile truck. 

facts are... folks that are mechanically inclined have an advantage in life  



ropensaddle said:


> I would strongly suggest saving more dollars to invest in a truck.
> 1000.00 would buy a good truck in the early eighties but we are
> in 2007 a better price would be around 3500 for a gaser and 9000.
> for a decent diesel. It is worth extra spent at purchase to get quality
> ...


----------



## ropensaddle (May 3, 2008)

046 said:


> dead on!
> 
> that's why the first gen 3/4 ton dodge diesel I posted about earlier for $3,500 was such a bargain. it had 150k miles or just getting started for a cummins. new tires etc and needed nothing. 3/4 ton cummins will pull 20k+ lbs with no sweat....
> 
> ...



I used to feel advantaged for mechanical skills but the truth is;
folks that get into politics are truly advantaged


----------



## gink595 (May 3, 2008)

046 said:


> facts are... folks that are mechanically inclined have an advantage in life



Yes, sometimes until you have to fix something for someone else. I grew up in a body shop my dad had his own shop, and my dad raised, me so come summers I had to spend most of my time in a shop! So I have never paid anyone to work on anything until late, I had some medical issues which made me really sick and I had to have someone repair my brakes on my car, WTF I can't believe what they charge, I said F! that and continued to fix it myself sick as a dog. Now I realize what people charge and I know people have to make a living and have overhead costs but feel they don't need to recoop all their costs off me at once!!! The moral of the story is don't be afraid to work on stuff, I wouldn't do a brake job for your first project but maybe have someone guide you through, if you buy a older truck you will get many of chances to hone your mechanical skills, I cut many of teeth on them old dudes, and did nothing but make me more self sufficent.


----------



## InTheFlow (May 3, 2008)

nytreeman said:


> well all I can say is if you think a little brake work is beyond your capacity and you think a grand or 2 is too much then you sure don't want a used truck



I'm quite capable of doing a break job and all of the other related maintenance issues mentioned later in the thread. However, when my mechanic looked at the trucks he found other things wrong that would have been expensive to fix. That is the reason I passed on them, not because I was afraid or incapable of doing the work myself.


----------



## Patrick62 (May 3, 2008)

*Oh?*



extraspecialman said:


> 318 is a good motor,never heard of 308.Dodge has always had some fine engines,but thats about where it ends.The rest of the truck is junk.Ive seen brand new Dodge trucks roll off the line with body lines that didnt even match up.Newer model auto trannys absolutely suck ass.Expect 80,000 if your lucky.



They ain't that bad. For a wood hauler it matters little if the body lines match up. Newer computer operated transmissions don't belong in a wood hauler IMHO.

The truck he is looking at has a "never say die" 318, and a 4 speed. What else is needed? That interior made from dead cow will hold up nicely with a chainsaw sitting on it. The operable rear window makes it a 3/60 air conditioning system.

3 windows open, and 60 miles per hour.  

-pat


----------



## ropensaddle (May 4, 2008)

Well I put in one ton springs on my old high boy today
one side done will do the other tomorrow was lots better
with just one side Those rear springs were the worst
I have seen in many years saggy misaligned etc. I had to 
put the overloads under primary springs to get height right!
Anyone else ever put one ton springs in a 3/4 ton?
I guess it will be stiff but payload will be better?


----------



## clearance (May 4, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> Well I put in one ton springs on my old high boy today
> one side done will do the other tomorrow was lots better
> with just one side Those rear springs were the worst
> I have seen in many years saggy misaligned etc. I had to
> ...



I had the springs on one of my 3/4 ton GMs re-arched and two extra leaves added to each rear and one at each front. It rode stiffer than before but not by much. I could load it beyond it legal limit (8600# gvw) and it wouldn't show.


----------



## ropensaddle (May 4, 2008)

clearance said:


> I had the springs on one of my 3/4 ton GMs re-arched and two extra leaves added to each rear and one at each front. It rode stiffer than before but not by much. I could load it beyond it legal limit (8600# gvw) and it wouldn't show.



Yeah I took these of an 85 f350 today, truck ran but is rough
figured I would just part it. I had to temporary the overloads
and put them under primary springs to get right height as the
truck has a five inch block forest service truck! I may leave it
that way but would rather get longer u bolts and a two inch
block and put overloads back on top then drill out the overload
stops on the f350 riveted! Mount them in place for a more factory
like set up. May not really be necessary as the overloads if ever
are used would still flex against primary springs is my thinking
but anyone that knows better chime in!


----------



## ropensaddle (May 4, 2008)

Other side finished wow the differance is night and day feels
twice as solid, it had axle wrap before when ya gassed it; before
not now! It does ride stiffer but I will take that over worrying
about springs breaking! I noticed the shackle bushings in the front
need attention so will repair them next! I have around 1200.00
in it now with the new lockouts truck has a great rebuilt 390
reworked axles new tires, new ujoints , and will need new mufflers
so prolly another 200.00 I am thinking of repairing a little cancer
under the cab and repainting it what do ya'll think?


----------



## 046 (May 4, 2008)

rope, what kind of camera did you use? 
very nice quality for a low resolution shot!


----------



## ropensaddle (May 5, 2008)

046 said:


> rope, what kind of camera did you use?
> very nice quality for a low resolution shot!



Its a sonny cyber shot and thanks it does pretty well indeed!
It will do high res too!


----------



## country boy (May 5, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> Other side finished wow the differance is night and day feels
> twice as solid, it had axle wrap before when ya gassed it; before
> not now! It does ride stiffer but I will take that over worrying
> about springs breaking! I noticed the shackle bushings in the front
> ...



Sweet ole truck my first set of wheels was a 66 ford pickup . Dont sound like you got much money into the truck id say fix er up put a quick paint job on er and be proud of it. Id love to have another of those ole trucks you just dont see em around these parts much anymore.


----------



## 046 (May 5, 2008)

got all sorts of digital cameras, but what I use the most is an old #### cybershot 3.2 mega too. model DSC-P32 ... mostly shoot at VGA resolution

what's your cybershot model? 

sorry about the off topic...but gotta find out which model used. 
it's really hard to find a digital camera that takes great low resolution shots. 



ropensaddle said:


> Its a sonny cyber shot and thanks it does pretty well indeed!
> It will do high res too!


----------



## ropensaddle (May 5, 2008)

046 said:


> got all sorts of digital cameras, but what I use the most is an old #### cybershot 3.2 mega too. model DSC-P32 ... mostly shoot at VGA resolution
> 
> what's your cybershot model?
> 
> ...



dsc-w7 7.2 mega pixels 3x optical zoom Carl Zeiss lens best I can describe


----------



## 046 (May 5, 2008)

thanks.. I'll keep an eye out for a deal on one....









ropensaddle said:


> dsc-w7 7.2 mega pixels 3x optical zoom Carl Zeiss lens best I can describe


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## 046 (May 5, 2008)

here's a legit deal that just popped up on craigslist... if you are close to Okla. 

$1,200 for a one ton gasser dodge 350 with 109k miles

this truck is a manual tranny and will pull a serious load of wood!

http://tulsa.craigslist.org/car/667928014.html


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## J.Gordon (May 5, 2008)

046 said:


> here's a legit deal that just popped up on craigslist... if you are close to Okla.
> 
> $1,200 for a one ton gasser dodge 350 with 109k miles
> 
> ...



If that would have been a 4WD, I would buy it and drop my 12 valve CTD in it.


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## ropensaddle (May 5, 2008)

046 said:


> thanks.. I'll keep an eye out for a deal on one....



But,but but they did not give me a deal  I bought it new
for the wifee but she got me and awesome video cam so got a
good one for her!


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## kah68 (May 7, 2008)

I know this thread is getting a bit old but, consider cost of operation when choosing (if you haven't already) a diesel while more money up front will be easier on fuel than on old gasser with todays oil prices. If you can find a good C.U.C.V. with a 6.2L thats a good start, older cummins, pre emissions, 7.3 power strokes are good but more complicated and expensive to fix than the 5.9 or 6.2. If you find a nice gasser, consider a cummins 3.9 (4 cylinder) swap, they have g.m. bell housings that will fit as they retrofitted frito lay trucks in the 80's with them. 3.9 is easy to up rate power and lighter than the 5.9 so you shouldn't have to beef up the front suspension to handle the weight.

Kirk


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## 046 (May 7, 2008)

yup... 4BT cummins engine swaps sure seem to be popular. 

cummins in general are setup extremely de-tuned. in the process of tuning my 6BT cummins. plan is not to go much pass 400hp. a triple disc torque converter will come first. 

a buddy with another 97 12v cummins just did a dyno run in OKC. 
408hp with 995 ft lbs torque. this was done with a stock blower and fuel housing. some folks are getting 800+hp from their cummins and pulling 11 second quarter miles runs with a truck driven daily. 













kah68 said:


> If you find a nice gasser, consider a cummins 3.9 (4 cylinder) swap, they have g.m. bell housings that will fit as they retrofitted frito lay trucks in the 80's with them. 3.9 is easy to up rate power and lighter than the 5.9 so you shouldn't have to beef up the front suspension to handle the weight.
> 
> Kirk


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## InTheFlow (May 7, 2008)

While going diesel would be great, its just out of my price range. I'm going to be looking at an 85 F250 in a day or so. It sounds like it is in good condition but I won't really know until my mechanic and I look it over.

Thanks again for all the advice, its much appreciated.


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## TJ-Bill (May 7, 2008)

I just looked everywhere until I found something decent.. hard to find a good working reliable 4x4 that won't cost an arm and a leg to keep on the road.. 

I found a 2001 GMC 2wd extended cab with a 4.8 for $2100 needed brakes and that was it. I spent another $100 and put a couple more leafs in the back and she's good to go.. I had 1200lbs of stove pellets in the back of it last week and you could hardly tell.. and to think I almost bought a 79 ford 250 with a 460..


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## J.Gordon (May 7, 2008)

046 said:


> yup... 4BT cummins engine swaps sure seem to be popular.
> 
> cummins in general are setup extremely de-tuned. in the process of tuning my 6BT cummins. plan is not to go much pass 400hp. a triple disc torque converter will come first.
> 
> ...



All that and still under 2,300 RPM!My CTD can get 25+ mpg if driven for mileage. But I wish it was 4WD.


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## 046 (May 8, 2008)

here's spec's on my CTD...

1997 Dodge Ram CTD, Ext. Cab 2500HD 4x4 3.55, 47RE, long bed, 96k miles, KDP killed, K & N, ATF 4+
______________ \____
¦ 6BT•••CUMMINS ¦¦ ,\____„
¦_...._...._________¦¦==¦"'"""'¦
/(©)¤(©) ¤¤¤ (©)¨(©)¨¨¨ (©)¨
°----°----°----°----°----°----°----°----™


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## InTheFlow (May 8, 2008)

I'm currently negotiating with a seller for a 85 F250 that is in great condition. It is a bit over my budget but will be worth the money, provided I can get it for about 1200. 

There is hardly any rust on it, the 4 wheel drive works well, engine is a 302 in good condition, & overall seems worth the money. I will have to have the steering column fixed and the rear brake cables replaced professionally right away but the other things that need to be done I can do myself inexpensively.  

Everyone has been really helpful with this and I just wanted to say thanks again. If I do get the truck, I'll put up some pictures of it.

EDIT: Great news, I got the truck for $1200! Should be able to share some pictures next week.


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## 046 (May 11, 2008)

craigslist Tulsa...

1983 Ford F350 1 ton 6.9 diesel 4spd 12' flat bed just over 93,000 miles good rubber. $1500.00 OBO will possibly trade.

http://tulsa.craigslist.org/car/674578195.html


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## Dapper Dan (May 11, 2008)

Had this old girl for 20 years.

400 M, C 6, full time 4WD. Springs built up all the way around.

(NO, I wouldn't take a grand for it)


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## beerman6 (May 11, 2008)

InTheFlow said:


> I'm currently negotiating with a seller for a 85 F250 that is in great condition. It is a bit over my budget but will be worth the money, provided I can get it for about 1200.
> 
> There is hardly any rust on it, the 4 wheel drive works well, engine is a 302 in good condition, & overall seems worth the money. I will have to have the steering column fixed and the rear brake cables replaced professionally right away but the other things that need to be done I can do myself inexpensively.
> 
> ...


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