# Used RIPSAW powerhead question



## jhollora (Sep 24, 2009)

Looking for some of that great advice I regularly see here.

Got a great price on a used ripsaw bandsaw mill, without a powerhead. Previous owner ran it with a Stihl 034 and said it had plenty of power. What newer generation Stihl would match up with the Rpisaw's adapter block? This is going to be dedicated to the ripsaw so trying to avoid a homeowner grade, or near-end-of life used saw.

I will be using this along with my 3120xp and Alaskan (either they are getting heavier, or I'm getting older)

Cheers!


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## oxbow (Sep 25, 2009)

*Ripsaw powerhead*

jhollora:

When I bought my Ripsaw in 1998, I went with the Stihl 044, which was the largest powerhead recommended at that time.
The following is from the current manual, which you can download from www.ripsaw.com:

Ripsaw portable sawmill

Stihl models: 028, 029, 034, 036, 036PRO, 
038, 039, 044, 046, 064, and 066, MS290, 
MS360, MS380, MS390, MS440, MS460, 
MS660, E20 and MSE220 electrics

Jonsereds models: 2065, 2165, 2071

Husquvarna models: 365 , 371, 395

Stihl sprocket part numbers 
Stihl 026 1121 640 2003 
Stihl 026 w/adj. oiler 1121 640 2004 
Stihl 028, MS280 1118 640 2003 
Stihl 029, MS290 1125 640 2004 
Stihl 034 1125 640 2004 
Stihl 036, MS360 1125 640 2004 
Stihl 038, MS380 1119 640 2000 
Stihl 039, MS390 1125 640 2004 
Stihl 044/046, 
MS440, 460 1128 640 2000 
Stihl 064/066, MS660 1122 640 2002

Hope this helps


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## AaronB (Sep 25, 2009)

I talked to them not to long ago and they suggested a Stihl 361, said it had a good cc number for it, I think its 59, 55, something like that.


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## jhollora (Sep 27, 2009)

*Follow on question*



oxbow said:


> jhollora:
> 
> When I bought my Ripsaw in 1998, I went with the Stihl 044, which was the largest powerhead recommended at that time.
> The following is from the current manual, which you can download from www.ripsaw.com:
> ...



So that narrows down my saw selection based on sprocket choices. Do all those saws have the same bar mount/oiler hole placement?


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## oxbow (Sep 27, 2009)

*bar mount/oiler hole placement*

jhollora:

I'd be guessing if I answered that question.

I can tell you that page 2 of the manual (same page as I block-copied in my first post) has "Stihl Chainsaw assembly/preparation". The instructions don't give different guidance for different sized powerheads. It _does _say that "a 7 tooth spur gear is required to run the sawmill with _some _Stihl models".

http://ripsaw.com/

Maybe some of the guys that own Stihl chainsaws can answer your question?

I have talked to the techs at SIR (256-728-3070 Southeastern Industrial Resources) and they have been very helpful.


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## jhollora (Sep 29, 2009)

*Viable Stihl Powerheads*

I checked the Stihl site but didn't see an easy way to match bars to multiple chainsaws. However, Oregon Bar and Chains did match a common bar to the following chainsaws:
029 034 036 038 039
045 048 056 290 310
340 360 390

So, based on the info I got from oxbow, and the info from the Oregon site I have a good bead on what chainsaws will match the Ripsaw mount, and what sprocket I need to interface the powerhead I choose.

Now I just need to get 'permission' to buy the powerhead!


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## gemniii (Oct 11, 2009)

I too am interested in powerhead choices for a Ripsaw.
How easy/hard is it to swap out the powerhead?
Also does anyone have an idea on the life expectancy of the company? 
The message board is essentially dead.
The mill plus a $1K powerhead costs about $1K less than a Woodmizer LT10 cost.


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## Sawyer Rob (Oct 11, 2009)

What does a LT10 cost these days?

Rob


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## gemniii (Oct 11, 2009)

Sawyer Rob said:


> What does a LT10 cost these days?
> 
> Rob


https://www.woodmizer.com/webgateway/OMshopSawmill.aspx?model=lt10
$3700


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## Sawyer Rob (Oct 11, 2009)

gemniii said:


> https://www.woodmizer.com/webgateway/OMshopSawmill.aspx?model=lt10
> $3700



WOW, I haven't heard the price of a 10 in a while, but i see it cost more than a Norwood LL24. Last time i milled on both of them, the LL24 blew it out of the water...

Rob


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## gemniii (Oct 12, 2009)

I'm asking about the Ripsaw as the subject of this thread,

How easy/hard is it to swap out the powerhead?
Also does anyone have an idea on the life expectancy of the company?


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## BIG JAKE (Oct 12, 2009)

gemniii said:


> I'm asking about the Ripsaw as the subject of this thread,
> 
> How easy/hard is it to swap out the powerhead?
> Also does anyone have an idea on the life expectancy of the company?



Same as swapping out a bar and chain. The two chainsaw bar studs are what insert thru the Ripsaw mount. Tighten the two bar nuts on the other side and your done. So-it's easy. About 5 minutes to swap powerheads. The list of chainsaw models Oxbow posted is correct. Any Stihl chainsaw from 066/MS660 down to 028/MS280 are within the manufacturers range of recommended power heads(Stihl small bar mount saws). All the oil holes for these saws are the same and will match up to your Ripsaw. I've tried an 028 powerhead and it's underpowered in freshly cut wet Pine(was not a worn out powerhead)IMO. That doesn't mean that an 028 wouldn't work in your circumstances with what you're cutting-If you have one try it. Currently, I run a muffler modded 039 on mine and wouldn't run a smaller saw than a MS361. The 039 would not have been my first choice(homeowner non-pro series saw) but came with it and performs ok. I've heard of 034's and 036's working well too. FYI I'm thinking of trying my 046 on the Ripsaw just to see if that is a better combination. Company has been around since mid 90's or earlier as far as I know.


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## BIG JAKE (Oct 12, 2009)

Powerhead performance differences according to the manufacturer:

Horsepower Softwood Hardwood
2.7 8fpm 3fpm
3.7 9fpm 4fpm
4.5 12fpm 8fpm
5 12fpm 9fpm

http://www.rip-saw.net/brochures/ripsawbrochure.pdf


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## Sawyer Rob (Oct 12, 2009)

gemniii said:


> I'm asking about the Ripsaw as the subject of this thread,
> 
> How easy/hard is it to swap out the powerhead?
> Also does anyone have an idea on the life expectancy of the company?



Actually, it you want to be "picky" and "snipy", 



jhollora said:


> Looking for some of that great advice I regularly see here.
> 
> Got a great price on a used ripsaw bandsaw mill, without a powerhead. Previous owner ran it with a Stihl 034 and said it had plenty of power. What newer generation Stihl would match up with the Rpisaw's adapter block? This is going to be dedicated to the ripsaw so trying to avoid a homeowner grade, or near-end-of life used saw.
> 
> ...



this is the actual "subject" of this thread.

Rob


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## gemniii (Oct 12, 2009)

BIG JAKE said:


> Same as swapping out a bar and chain. The two chainsaw bar studs are what insert thru the Ripsaw mount. Tighten the two bar nuts on the other side and your done. So-it's easy. About 5 minutes to swap powerheads. The list of chainsaw models Oxbow posted is correct. Any Stihl chainsaw from 066/MS660 down to 028/MS280 are within the manufacturers range of recommended power heads(Stihl small bar mount saws). All the oil holes for these saws are the same and will match up to your Ripsaw. I've tried an 028 powerhead and it's underpowered in freshly cut wet Pine(was not a worn out powerhead)IMO. That doesn't mean that an 028 wouldn't work in your circumstances with what you're cutting-If you have one try it. Currently, I run a muffler modded 039 on mine and wouldn't run a smaller saw than a MS361. The 039 would not have been my first choice(homeowner non-pro series saw) but came with it and performs ok. I've heard of 034's and 036's working well too. FYI I'm thinking of trying my 046 on the Ripsaw just to see if that is a better combination. Company has been around since mid 90's or earlier as far as I know.



THANK YOU for valuable info.
It looked to be simple and straightforward, however the voice of experience is worth many manuals.
The company apprently changed hands in the last few years and there's a message on their forum about the death of the blade mfg.


> While I am no longer associated with Ripsaw, the product line, nor
> it's current manufacturer, I did stay in touch with the blade
> manufacturer.


http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ripsawportablesawmills/message/209

How unique is their blade?


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## oxbow (Oct 12, 2009)

*rip-saw.net*



gemniii said:


> How easy/hard is it to swap out the powerhead?
> Also does anyone have an idea on the life expectancy of the company?


gemniii:

For Ripsaw sales, service or information, use rip-saw.net.

I spoke with the owner at Ripsaw this AM; he said there is a problem with the site that I posted in my first reply, and to use rip-saw.net instead.
According to Rowland (owner), Ripsaw was bought in total by SIR (Southeastern Industrial Resources) in Grant, Alabama, in 2005.

I bought my Ripsaw new for $1608.15 on 4/27/98, from Better Built Corporation in Wilmington, Mass. That included the saw, 12 blades, and a 044 sprocket (saw was $1434.00). I bought the Stihl 044 power head from a local dealer for $578.00 on 4/25/98.

I used my mill for about 10 years, milling hardwood (cherry, maple, ash, aspen, etc.). Finally, I could not get the blade to track, and I cut into the cover plates. I contacted SIR in August 2008 for an estimate for repair/refurbishment. Rowland at SIR said it was difficult to estimate without seeing the saw, but major repairs they have done rarely exceed $500.00.

My saw came back in like new condition, total cost $314.95 plus $40.00 shipping. Repair included: rear drive cover, front idler cover, front drive cover, blade guide bearings, tension bolt washer, and lower blade guard.
I have since ordered extra end clamp kits, end clamp pins, and cover knobs. The replacement parts are better quality than the original.

Long-winded post to say that I have been pleased with the Ripsaw and the work done by SIR, and to post the current Ripsaw website.


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## jhollora (Oct 12, 2009)

*Picked up a 036 Powerhead*



BIG JAKE said:


> Same as swapping out a bar and chain. The two chainsaw bar studs are what insert thru the Ripsaw mount. Tighten the two bar nuts on the other side and your done. So-it's easy. About 5 minutes to swap powerheads. The list of chainsaw models Oxbow posted is correct. Any Stihl chainsaw from 066/MS660 down to 028/MS280 are within the manufacturers range of recommended power heads(Stihl small bar mount saws). All the oil holes for these saws are the same and will match up to your Ripsaw. I've tried an 028 powerhead and it's underpowered in freshly cut wet Pine(was not a worn out powerhead)IMO. That doesn't mean that an 028 wouldn't work in your circumstances with what you're cutting-If you have one try it. Currently, I run a muffler modded 039 on mine and wouldn't run a smaller saw than a MS361. The 039 would not have been my first choice(homeowner non-pro series saw) but came with it and performs ok. I've heard of 034's and 036's working well too. FYI I'm thinking of trying my 046 on the Ripsaw just to see if that is a better combination. Company has been around since mid 90's or earlier as far as I know.



Well I decided. I picked up a used Stihl 036 Pro this weekend. I wanted to go with a pro saw because of the potential for extended WOT running in warm weather. I also like the adjustable oiler, and decompression valve. It was a one owner saw, and if it is as pretty on the inside as the outside I will have a nice saw. As soon as I get it I will pull the muffler and carb, and find out.


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## BIG JAKE (Oct 13, 2009)

Sounds good jhollora-let us know how it works and post lots of pics


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## gemniii (Oct 13, 2009)

oxbow said:


> gemniii:
> 
> For Ripsaw sales, service or information, use rip-saw.net.
> 
> ...



Thanks! a lot of good info for me in that post.


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## jhollora (Oct 22, 2009)

*036 Pro arrived - Muffler stuck*

Well the saw arrived in great shape. As I carried the box from the porch to the garage, I could feel sloshing? Got it out an they had shipped it full of fuel and oil. I figured what the heck, flipped it to full choke, pulled twice, and she started right up. Opened her all the way up, dropped back down to idle with no problems. Hot dawg!!!

Now my question. I went to pull the muffler to look for scoring, so I removed the 4 screws in the front, and....nothing. Muffler won't budge. Any advice? I don't want to damage it, but I've been unable to find an exploded parts diagram or shop manual.


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## jhollora (Oct 24, 2009)

jhollora said:


> Well the saw arrived in great shape. As I carried the box from the porch to the garage, I could feel sloshing? Got it out an they had shipped it full of fuel and oil. I figured what the heck, flipped it to full choke, pulled twice, and she started right up. Opened her all the way up, dropped back down to idle with no problems. Hot dawg!!!
> 
> Now my question. I went to pull the muffler to look for scoring, so I removed the 4 screws in the front, and....nothing. Muffler won't budge. Any advice? I don't want to damage it, but I've been unable to find an exploded parts diagram or shop manual.



Figured it out today. When I looked closely at the muffler, I noticed the front wasn't crimped on...so I popped the front off and discovered 2 internal screws mounting the muffler! This will make it really easy if I decide to add another port. 
P&C both looked pretty clean. I will get some pic's up later.


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## oxbow (Oct 24, 2009)

Glad you figured it out. I didn't reply to your last post, because I don't know how the mufflers are mounted on the 036's. If the bolts that hold it on are in the back half, what holds the front half on?

Really like to see some pics when you get it all together!


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## nikosdellas (Oct 27, 2009)

Hello there,

I was wondering if my Makita 6401 can be adapted to work with the RIPSAW.


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