# Pics of the lumber pile......



## CaseyForrest (Apr 1, 2006)

Feedback and comments welcome, Im still learning.


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## jhazel3 (Apr 1, 2006)

That is some nice looking lumber what did you use to mill it ? 
Jim III


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## woodfarmer (Apr 1, 2006)

that is some good looking stuff, i'd never thought about strapping lumber to prevent warping, now all you need is a shed roof over the pile


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## West Texas (Apr 1, 2006)

Looks great; nice and neat too.


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## oldsaw (Apr 1, 2006)

Go away, that's too pretty. Those photos have been faked!!! Either that, or you are much neater then I am.

Mark


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## CaseyForrest (Apr 1, 2006)

haha...I took those pictures this evening.

I milled the logs with a GB 36" mill and my 066. After I got the slabs, I took a piece of my super strut and used it as a fence with my circular saw and ripped them down to the most usable wood in a slab.


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 2, 2006)

Nice.... What wood it it? You going to put end sealer on (or even just latex paint.)?

I use simliar staps to keep my ceder from warping - need to adjust them as it drys though.


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## CaseyForrest (Apr 2, 2006)

Lakeside53 said:


> Nice.... What wood it it? You going to put end sealer on (or even just latex paint.)?
> 
> I use simliar staps to keep my ceder from warping - need to adjust them as it drys though.




The 2x material is White Ash. The wood on the right is White Oak with a 2x12 piece of White Ash on top.

I thought about sealing it, but they are all about 12" longer than I need them, so Im not sure.


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## oldsaw (Apr 2, 2006)

seal them anyway, or they will crack farther in than you were planning to cut. If you don't have a can of latex paint, go to a hardware store and buy a mis-mix for a couple of bucks. My wife like to paint (actually for me to paint) so I have a good selection. I even color code when I cut different batches, so I know which should be dry sooner.

Mark


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## BIG JAKE (Apr 2, 2006)

*Nice stack*



CaseyForrest said:


> The 2x material is White Ash. The wood on the right is White Oak with a 2x12 piece of White Ash on top.
> 
> I thought about sealing it, but they are all about 12" longer than I need them, so Im not sure.



Nice stack. Wish we had wood like that to mill around here. Any conclusions on those different ripping chains your using? What's working the best for you so far? Thanks for the pics


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## CaseyForrest (Apr 2, 2006)

BIG JAKE said:


> Nice stack. Wish we had wood like that to mill around here. Any conclusions on those different ripping chains your using? What's working the best for you so far? Thanks for the pics



Well, out of the box the Lazer chain is the best. But after sharpening and setting the rakers, the Lazer and the Woodsman Pro are about the same. 

I would reccomend, as others have, to sharpen and check rakers before putting it into use. I found the rakers to be almost all a different height on all the chains Ive used so far.

I got my dealer down to $.30 a drive for the lazer, which is nice if I need some in a pinch. Ill order more from Baileys though if I need some.

Where in Albuquerque are you? My brother and his wife live in Rio Rancho.


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## Newfie (Apr 2, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> The 2x material is White Ash. The wood on the right is White Oak with a 2x12 piece of White Ash on top.
> 
> I thought about sealing it, but they are all about 12" longer than I need them, so Im not sure.




Unsealed ash will check badly. You could easily lose that foot of extra length.


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## Bill G (Apr 3, 2006)

Do you have a kiln or will you be sending it off after it air dries ? 

Bill


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## CaseyForrest (Apr 3, 2006)

Bill G said:


> Do you have a kiln or will you be sending it off after it air dries ?
> 
> Bill



I will be using it to build a tree house.


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## BIG JAKE (Apr 3, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> Well, out of the box the Lazer chain is the best. But after sharpening and setting the rakers, the Lazer and the Woodsman Pro are about the same.
> 
> I would reccomend, as others have, to sharpen and check rakers before putting it into use. I found the rakers to be almost all a different height on all the chains Ive used so far.
> 
> ...



In the North Valley not far from there. Was on a 2 month road trip in the RV in sept/oct. Came out of Canada down into Michigan past Mackinaw island-good time of year to see the colors. All that hardwood around. Good post-keep em' coming!


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 3, 2006)

Nice lumber, good job...

There are a couple things you can do to get better quality lumber.

Use Anchorseal! Yes, paint looks just as good, but it doesn't work as good!!! I like to Anchorseal the log ASAP, instead of waiting untill the lumber is sawn out. You use less Anchorseal this way, and you get much better quality lumber as well.

Make your stacks 3 or 4' wide. It keeps the stacks from "leaning" and you end up with flatter lumber.

Put the first stickers as close to the ends of the boards as you can get. It helps keep checking down. Of course you have to have the boards the same length to do so.

Stickers should be 3/4" to 1" square and DRY when you use them. Cut them ahead of time and air dry them for later use.

Get a water proof cover over that lumber! You need to keep the sun and rain off the lumber!!! Pole barn tin works pretty well.

Hopefully, that fence won't block too much air from flowing through the stack... You need good airflow through the lumber to carry away the moisture. This is important to keep mould out of the stack.

Keep those straps "tight"!! It's better to use the straps that are wider, so they can be tighter.

One last thing. Cement blocks are much stronger if the "flats" are turned the other direction! (like in a basement)  

Good luck with your project. It's really a good feeling to build with your own lumber!!!

Rob


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## t_andersen (Apr 3, 2006)

I agree with the others. You should definitely seal the ends asap.


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## Newfie (Apr 3, 2006)

Boy, sawyerrob pretty much covered all the bases. A nice concise primer.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Apr 4, 2006)

*Cool forum*

I haven't posted in a while but I've been lurking. Since my forte is woodworking, felling and milling is just a means to get material so this is right up my alley.

Here's pics of some pecan I milled recently. The logs were salvaged from a road project so they weren't cared for as I normally would. It's still some pretty good stuff.


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## Jwoods (Apr 4, 2006)

aggie,

Nice stuff, -why did you live saw those logs?


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## buzz sawyer (Apr 4, 2006)

Just how smooth of a cut do you get with a chainsaw mill - assuming the saw bar is in good condition and your guides are set correctly? The photos in the first post look amazingly flat - really suprises me. Hate to lose 1/4" in the cut and that much more when planing it. Does a rip chain cut smoother?


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Apr 4, 2006)

Jwoods said:


> aggie,
> 
> Nice stuff, -why did you live saw those logs?



Thanks-

A couple of reasons. I like to build furniture that features live edges for one. 
Another reason is, since furniture and cabinet parts are mostly shorter than 4', I can get much better yeild from the log by leaving the latural edge if there is more than a little taper. I can explain with a drawing better (attached). The "board" on the left was live sawn and one on the right was squared on the mill. This illustration shows extreme taper but you get the point. Typically I take a large cant on the first cut to be quartersawn into small stock later and the bulk of the log is flatsawn. This gives me a lot of options when I get to use it. I can glue up a large book matched table top or selectively cut out only the best of each plank.



buzz sawyer said:


> Just how smooth of a cut do you get with a chainsaw mill ...



Smoother than you would think for a chainsaw if you have a stable guide rig. I have both a full comp ripping chain and a skip tooth microchisel for my 72" chainsaw mill. The ripping chain does produce a smoother cut but not by much. I use the microchisel 90% of the time because it cuts faster and with less vibration.


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## coveredinsap (Apr 5, 2006)

Yeah, I'm a proponent of "live sawn" myself. I'll square it up when I decide what to use it for, if need be.

If you're into making furniture, then the shape of a 'live sawn' slab can determine whether a pattern for a particular furniture piece will fit...as I hate joining lumber if I don't have to.


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## CaseyForrest (Apr 5, 2006)

Where does one get Anchorseal? Can I just use Polyureathane in a spray can?


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## Newfie (Apr 5, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> Where does one get Anchorseal? Can I just use Polyureathane in a spray can?



uccoatings.com


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## rb_in_va (Apr 5, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> Where does one get Anchorseal?



Woodcraft stores usually stock Anchorseal. There's one in Grand Rapids.

http://www.woodcraft.com/stores/Default.aspx?locate=state&state=MI


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