# Ive got an AXE to grind.....



## RaisedByWolves (Jun 25, 2006)

A helko Vario Axe to be exact.

This is their 5lb Heavy splitting axe, supposed to work similar to a maul without all the weght to swing. So far Ive split about 20-30 logs and think it works pretty good.

I think my stump is a little high for me to develope a good swing (24") but Ill correct this in short order. The thing is downright violent when splitting 8-12" dried hickory. My wife offered to help stack but beat a hasty retreat back into the house after seeing it in action.:jawdrop: 

If you swing just right it neatly splits the wood and the pieces fall to either side of the stump, swing too hard and your walking 6-8' in either direction to pick them up.























I think I might thin out the blade near the tip a lil for better penetration in greener wood,(hence the thread title) other than this I think its a good design and a bargain at $55.00.:biggrinbounce2:


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## Adkpk (Jun 25, 2006)

Just sent a lick off to my brothers. They split wood. Where do they seel those mauls. Internet? Home Defunked?


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## BlueRidgeMark (Jun 25, 2006)

Nice! I just looked it up online:

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11718

(A) Heavy Splitting Axe - A heavy duty splitting axe with an extremely robust wedge shaped head. Excellent for splitting large logs, tree trunk sections, and firewood. 36" curved American hickory handle. Head weight - 5.0 lb.


Funny... That link seems to have found its way into an email to my wife. 


(You know you live in a family of electronic junkies when you email things to your wife. Daily. )


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## MotorSeven (Jun 25, 2006)

Adrpk said:


> Just sent a lick off to my brothers. They split wood. Where do they seel those mauls. Internet? Home Defunked?



How come whe i use the word "maul", people look at me like i'm crazy, always have to follow it up with "SLEDGE!" That's what my father and grandfather called 'em, so maul is good enough for me. 

Anyway, does that splitter work better than your average splitting maul, say 6 or 8lb? I also want to try that "Monster maul" someday. Any others out there worthy of a test?


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## BlueRidgeMark (Jun 25, 2006)

MotorSeven said:


> How come whe i use the word "maul", people look at me like i'm crazy, always have to follow it up with "SLEDGE!" That's what my father and grandfather called 'em, so maul is good enough for me.




Well, it's the CORRECT name, so that's probably why your father and grandfather called 'em that!


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## RaisedByWolves (Jun 26, 2006)

. Mark hit the nail on the head as for availability, got mine from heartville for 54.99 and 9.95 shipping, took about 5 days to arrive.



. Motor7, Im planning on borrowing my neighbors 8# maul to see the difference in splitting effort. Personally I would rather have to swing the light (5#) one I have _hard_ than to have to lift allmost twice the weight while doing the same work, but untill I do a test between the two I wont really know.


Ill Let yous know what I find after I borrow the maul.


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## BlueRidgeMark (Jun 26, 2006)

I'll be looking forward to your report, RBW.


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## CNYCountry (Jun 27, 2006)

Remember when you're evaluating that how they feel has everything to do with what kind of shape you're in. The 12 lb monster maul feels the same to me this year as the 8 lb maul did last year but I'm in much better shape and the 12 lb'er really goes through some twisted nasty crap. And with the easy stuff I just have to kind of lift it to eye level and push it down and it splits.


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## jnsn (Jun 28, 2006)

Just like a baseball bat, hockey stick etc the energy comes from velocity and not weight.There are a lot of the 12 pound mauls sitting in garages when I deliver wood. Get a six or eight pounder , and get a fiberglass handle to save yourself some time changing it later.Home depot 25 bucks or so.

How about the difference between a maul and a mell?


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## CNYCountry (Jun 30, 2006)

If you've got the strength to swing the 12lb maul as fast as the 8lb maul then there is half again the energy. I did not think it was worth it and used the 8lb maul all last year. I started using the 12lb maul this year and now that I have the strength to really swing it well I won't go back. The width of the head alone really helps, you can sharpen the edge so it goes into the wood easier but the width doesn't let it get stuck. I usually can split 24" - 30" diameter rounds of softer hardwood now just with the maul. I split 30 face cord (10 full cord) a year by hand. It is my fitness plan. I've gotten to know the mauls really well...


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## jnsn (Jul 1, 2006)

Actually I didn't want to make you feel bad but I split using a 16 lb maul.

And I split 121 quarter face cords a year.


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## Gark (Jul 2, 2006)

Hey that is one impressive-looking device. Wonder how it would work with these chunks of elm that defied logic (and force). Gave up after pounding the snot outa 14" rounds (they WOULD NOT SPLIT!), fired up the saw and made "hamburger patties" out of it. Elm might exist to keep some of us humble.


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## Rspike (Sep 29, 2006)

*Hey!*

RaisedByWolves , You got an update on this axe/maul from just the 20-30 logs ?....... I use a 28 ton 8 hp splitter so I'm not looking for the monster maul, I just like to have something to "fine tune" the wood next to the house that is going to be coming in to be burned. Thought this might be the ticket. Wha-ca-got for an up-date on the helko Vario .


RaisedByWolves said:


> A helko Vario Axe to be exact.
> 
> This is their 5lb Heavy splitting axe, supposed to work similar to a maul without all the weght to swing. So far Ive split about 20-30 logs and think it works pretty good.
> 
> ...


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## mga (Sep 29, 2006)

it looks heavy duty..and i like how the bolts go thru the whole thing on the head. the design looks great and should last a long time.


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## RaisedByWolves (Sep 30, 2006)

Well, borrowing my neighbors maul for testing was a wash as it was only 6lbs and wasnt really much different than the helko.



Overall I like the axe in design and function in smaller sectioned woods and soft woods, although being the tinkerer that I am I still think I want to modify it some.


This thing will really let you haul off into a piece of wood and as long as you judged the piece correctly and hit it squarely your good.


Mis judge or hit the edge of the log and she tries to bite you on the ankle.:jawdrop: 

Part of this is due to the curvature of the handle (my block is also too high) witch can cause the head to come down on an angle.

The curve of the handle lends to the development of more power, but can push the head too far forward if your not acustomed to the correct swing, especially if you become fatigued.



My idea for modifing it is to add a block of steel held to the rear of the handle by the screws. Mabye adding 2lbs partially for more force but also to make it feel more balanced and to stabilize it so the head comes down straighter.



What can I say, I like to tinker, but overall its much better than using an axe to split.


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## ASEMASTER (Nov 9, 2006)

*nice piece*



RaisedByWolves said:


> A helko Vario Axe to be exact.
> 
> This is their 5lb Heavy splitting axe, supposed to work similar to a maul without all the weght to swing. So far Ive split about 20-30 logs and think it works pretty good.
> 
> ...


try and compaire it to the fiskar splitting axe with the long handle this is what i use and it works real nice, light enough to swing all day and eazy on the elbows as it has a fiberglass handle. $43.00


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## JUDGE1162 (Nov 9, 2006)

ASEMASTER said:


> try and compaire it to the fiskar splitting axe with the long handle this is what i use and it works real nice, light enough to swing all day and eazy on the elbows as it has a fiberglass handle. $43.00


 
DO you have photos of the fiskar, I can seem to find them around me

I searched online no good photos of the head, and according to the fisker site it only has a 4 1/2 pound head and a 28" handel seems short to me. I have their ax same problem the handel is too short.


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## SmokinDodge (Nov 9, 2006)

RBW how is that Vario holding up? Is it the only type of maul you use now? I'm thinking about putting the Vario on the christmas wish list cause I know I could never "justify" a $55 splitting maul to the wife any other time. 

Sheesh the things a man has to do!


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## Rspike (Nov 10, 2006)

SmokinDodge said:


> RBW how is that Vario holding up? Is it the only type of maul you use now? I'm thinking about putting the Vario on the christmas wish list cause I know I could never "justify" a $55 splitting maul to the wife any other time.
> 
> Sheesh the things a man has to do!



Better get it wile its still "on sale" 
If its hard to "justify" a $55 splitting maul to the wife NOW , its really going to be hard to "justify" when it goes back to $67.99 off sale.


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## blis (Nov 10, 2006)

JUDGE1162 said:


> DO you have photos of the fiskar, I can seem to find them around me
> 
> I searched online no good photos of the head, and according to the fisker site it only has a 4 1/2 pound head and a 28" handel seems short to me. I have their ax same problem the handel is too short.








thats the axe with long handle... 72cm handle, 1,66kg weight... seems fine to me, even thou i myself use age old fiskars axe with real wooden handle, havent yet seen a wood that wont break with it...


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## ASEMASTER (Nov 10, 2006)

*yes*



blis said:


> thats the axe with long handle... 72cm handle, 1,66kg weight... seems fine to me, even thou i myself use age old fiskars axe with real wooden handle, havent yet seen a wood that wont break with it...


that's the one I even have the next size smaller got them at sears (dam box stores ) and only because I had lost one off the 4 wheeler and went out and got another right away ,only to find the other.


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## Luke (Nov 27, 2006)

*Iltis Oxhead*

Anybody heard of these? German made and expensive. Any good? 

Thanks


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## Woodie (Nov 27, 2006)

Luke said:


> Anybody heard of these? German made and expensive. Any good?
> 
> Thanks



They are considered, along with Gransfors and Snow & Neally, to be among the best in the world.


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## Booshcat (Nov 27, 2006)

*Iltis Oxhead Info from Traditional Woodworker . Com*

Felling Axe (35") by Iltis Oxhead $79.95 
598-1002 

View attachment 40682


Click to enlarge 

The exceptionally thin blade, 6" wide face and premium Hickory handle make this top quality German axe an excellent choice for felling, limbing, debarking, notching and general cutting. The thin blade is such that a full 3" back from the edge the blade is still only 1/4" thick. In use, this thin blade profile keeps any wedging forces at a minimum and makes for easy and deep penetration. 

Cut ready for use, the blade is hand forged from the finest quality German steel and has been hardened and tempered to 56-58 Rockwell C for the best combination of toughness and hardness. This blade will not chip as is so common with axes of lesser quality steel. Cut ready for use the blade face has a width of a full 6". 

The head weighs 2 1/2 lbs and is secured to the 35" hickory handle by means of a secure triple-wedge design (one hardwood wedge and two conical metal wedges). Overall weight is 4 lbs. The axe comes with a saddle grade leather sheath to protect the edge when not in use. Crafted in Germany by Iltis Oxhead. 

Also Available:
Double-Bit Felling Axe (35") by Iltis Oxhead
Felling Axe (27") by Iltis Oxhead

View Traditional Woodworker's entire selection of Axes & Hatchets


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iltis Oxhead 
The trade mark of the company Oxhead ("Ochsenkopf") is one of the oldest in the tool industry of Germany's Bergishen Land, home of some of the most internationally renowned German tool makers and located in towns such as Solingen, Wuppertal and Remscheid. The name Oxhead was originally listed on the registration roll of trade marks on June 2, 1781. Since this time the name Oxhead has become synonymous with high-quality tools being used in forestry and old fashioned carpentry such as log building. The use of only the best-quality steel and hand forging by experienced toolmakers, combined with a rigourous and consistent quality control have enabled Iltis Oxhead to gain a world-wide following and appreciation amongst serious users of log building, timber framing and forestry tools.


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## Luke (Nov 28, 2006)

*Oxhead*

I ordered an Oxhead today. Will post on its performance this weekend.


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## sedanman (Nov 28, 2006)

I have a Vario. LOVE IT. I bought a few spare parts to have on hand, haven't needed them. Actually if I get another head, I could assemble another axe. They also have a version with a composite handle.


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## Dan Dill (Feb 3, 2007)

Have any of you tried the TOMOHAWK series of the Helko vario???

Thet are described as:

"Based on their brilliantly designed Vario2000 System, Helko’s Tomahawk line takes the concept another step further with the introduction of a lighter, yet nearly indestructible, fibreglass polyamide composition handle. The ergonomically designed handle is a pure example of form following function, combining highly efficient striking power with fatigue free usage.

All handles and tool heads are completely interchangeable both within and between the Tomahawk and Vario lines, bringing you the unparalleled ability to match tool head and handle to the job at hand. All axe and hatchet blades are hardened to strict German DIN 7287 B manufacturing standards. Because of the composite handles the Tomahawk tools do not require a fixing cap or overstrike protector as do the Vario2000 versions. Germany
"​


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## Haywire Haywood (Feb 3, 2007)

MotorSeven said:


> How come whe i use the word "maul", people look at me like i'm crazy, always have to follow it up with "SLEDGE!" That's what my father and grandfather called 'em, so maul is good enough for me.



In my neck of the woods there is a maul and there is a sledgehammer, and the two are not the same. One is a "hammer" as the name implies, and the other is a heavy wedge on a handle that is used for splitting wood. Sledgehammer on the left and maul on the right.

Ian


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## ray benson (Feb 3, 2007)

Same wording here Ian. Here is a maul, sledges and wedges.
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41216&d=1165516327


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## trimmmed (Feb 3, 2007)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> Nice! I just looked it up online:
> 
> http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11718



Fwiw (and it's worth 15% ) a membership at woodnet gains you an extra 15% off at Hartville


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## Dan Dill (Feb 3, 2007)

Fiberglass handle or wood? Which would you choose?

What about the Scan and the German splitting axes they offer....kinda seem light?


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## Haywire Haywood (Feb 3, 2007)

Fiberglass, it doesn't break as easily and transmits less vibes to your hands.

Ian


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## zemmo (Feb 4, 2007)

Haywire Haywood said:


> Fiberglass, it doesn't break as easily and transmits less vibes to your hands.
> 
> Ian



I'm liking the wood handle on mine. I don't find it transmits vibration unduly, and it just feels better to me. Steel is just too harsh, and fiberglass seems too muted.


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## Dan Dill (Feb 4, 2007)

My wife wants fiberglass, but I want wood??????????????????????

Such big choices.

Can you get other Helko axes somewhere? Some like the Hunter or the other splitting axes?


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## Sodboa (Feb 5, 2007)

Compromise get a fiberglass  (yes dear)


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## bigair (Feb 5, 2007)

One errant swing into the edge of a log and you will be wishing you got fiberglass.


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## Dan Dill (Mar 4, 2007)

As I have posted on other threads, I went with the Super Splitter from Fiskars. It has a 4 1/4 pound head with a great design to pull the wood open. I will never go back to my standard maul again...EVER! This thing is past the 5 cord mark and still going without a hitch. Shorter handle yes, but a 36 incher on this would be dangerous!


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## RaisedByWolves (Mar 4, 2007)

bigair said:


> One errant swing into the edge of a log and you will be wishing you got fiberglass.






Their designed to prevent splitting the handle if this happens.




It works too, Ive overshot mine a few times.


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## kevinj (Mar 5, 2007)

What my dad used, to prevent damage to the handle,
was to place a couple of sections of bicycle innertube rolled up
and placed just beneath the head.
It works great.


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## A100HVA (Mar 5, 2007)

fiberglass handle gets my vote 7lb head


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## Woodie (Mar 5, 2007)

kevinj said:


> What my dad used, to prevent damage to the handle,
> was to place a couple of sections of bicycle innertube rolled up
> and placed just beneath the head.
> It works great.



That's a great idea..I gotta try that. I use a "custom-fitted duct-tape overstrike protector" on mine! 

And believe it or not, it works pretty well. I wrap it about 3/8ths of an inch or so thick, and you'd be amazed how much that little bit of cushion helps. 

I am gonna try that innertube trick, though.


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## Woodie (Mar 5, 2007)

Haywire Haywood said:


> Fiberglass, it doesn't break as easily and transmits less vibes to your hands.
> 
> Ian



One of the things I do to cut down on some of the vibes is to wrap the gripping part of the handle with "tennis-racket tape."

It's essentially gauze that sticks only to itself. When I played tennis, it was used to cover the grip on your racket to give it more longevity, and also to build-up a grip that was too small. I have the same problem with my sledges and mauls...they just aren't thick enough for me to get my best grip on 'em. So this stuff is like killing two birds with one stone...I find it cuts down noticably on the vibes, too. Actually, it's like killing three birds, because I find it a lot less slick to grip, too!

Lee Valley sells a form of this as well, and it's cheaper to boot. I don't know if it's okay to post the link, but if you can't find it at a sponsor, that's another place you can.


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## computeruser (Mar 5, 2007)

Another good overstrike protector is multi-strand 12v-type electrical wire, especially the type with fine strands and thick rubber coatings like you find in the car audio world. I wrapped a couple sledges with this sort of wire in a wire-tape-wire-tape multi-layer fashion and it has held up beautifully, When the tape gets ugly you just pull off the outer layer and re-tape over it. The wire holds up to lots of impacts without breaking, falling off, etc. We do a fair amount of pounding on rebar and fenceposts when we do streambank stabilization and woody debris management activities at a nature preserve that I'm involved with, and the combination of wet, wobbly lengths of metal being pounded into streambanks leads to lots of misstrikes. 

The tape-and-wire method has held up better than any other method that the other guys have used, and it is a LOT safer than those plastic collars that some sledges have - those collars are slipper and the tool just glance off the object that was mi????, whereas my method grabs the object and often stops the tool dead in its tracks.


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## Dan Dill (Mar 5, 2007)

I am using the Fiskars 4 1/4 pound head on Tanoak, Madrone, Maple, Myrtle, Black Oak, and Live Oak. I am not going back to my traditional maul ever again. 

I am telling you guys, these things rock. I will be ordering another Scan Splitting axe soon. They really know what they are doing. Maybe someone here is cutting woods denser than I am, but check out hte properties of Pacific Madrone and Live Oak.


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## charlesfarm (Mar 5, 2007)

Has anybody used the Helko Vario Axe to split Elm? I have a hardware store maul and me thinks there must be a better way.  

God bless,
Chris


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## TooTall999 (Mar 5, 2007)

charlesfarm said:


> Has anybody used the Helko Vario Axe to split Elm? I have a hardware store maul and me thinks there must be a better way.



I'm thinking finland is the only person to have ever tried it,none available over here that I know of.


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## Jimfound (Mar 5, 2007)

charlesfarm said:


> Has anybody used the Helko Vario Axe to split Elm? I have a hardware store maul and me thinks there must be a better way.
> 
> God bless,
> Chris




A better way to split Elm?

I don't know that there is such a thing. Not sure that you might want something heavier than the Helko Vario (although I can't say I have ever used one). I have a monster maul...similar to this one http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/467. 15 pounds and its the best I have found for breaking up the bigger rounds. There is also a thread here about it:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=36409

Good luck with the Elm (chuckles).


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## Haywire Haywood (Mar 6, 2007)

I've had 2 people try to give me a bunch of elm in the last month, and last year it was a big Sycamore. I had to politely turn them down.

Ian


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## computeruser (Mar 6, 2007)

Jimfound said:


> A better way to split Elm?
> 
> I don't know that there is such a thing. Not sure that you might want something heavier than the Helko Vario (although I can't say I have ever used one). I have a monster maul...similar to this one http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/467. 15 pounds and its the best I have found for breaking up the bigger rounds. There is also a thread here about it:
> 
> ...



+1 on the megamaul. I love the thing, use it for everything from kindling to big 'ol hickory rounds. It's actually surprisingly nice on the kindling 'cause I can do it in the garage, using it one-handed and just dropping the maul on the wood without actually swinging.


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## michael j (Mar 6, 2007)

charlesfarm said:


> Has anybody used the Helko Vario Axe to split Elm? I have a hardware store maul and me thinks there must be a better way.
> 
> God bless,
> Chris



I burn a lot of elm, Chris. Sometimes It's easier to quarter it with the saw, than to use a splitter. The neighbor and I cut a couple cords today, and most of the biggins' I chainsaw split.

Ian, If someone offered me some elm I'd be all over it. I can handle it.


Mike


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## charlesfarm (Mar 6, 2007)

Just split some of that Elm tonight. I am totally soaked with sweat from head to foot and it's 36 degrees outside.

I think I found about the easist way to split it. I have one of those twist wedges from harbor freight. I took one of the 22" dia rounds that I cut this weekend and cut some 2" deep cuts with my saw (with the grain, through the bark). Started the wedge in one of the cuts and drove it until it split. Used the maul to cut the strands away and kept on going this way until it was all in small enough pieces for my stove.

The twist wedge is pretty nice, does a good job of forcing the elm apart. Even so, I think that I'll quarter some of it with the saw and split some of it with the wedges. I sit behind a computer desk all day and need the exercise!

God bless,
Chris


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## Old_School_Nut (Mar 18, 2007)

yeah elm sucks I either use my MS460 or a logsplitter to split em, logsplitter grunts a bit but she cuts em...


Every now and then one of my friends from town will come over, and sometimes i say "want to help me split?" i had em the maul and i grab another(same maul) toss em some elm and grab me some oak... lol after my 5th log they start getting frustrated and I tell em to put more muscle in it... lol by the time they get fed up with it and make me split it , its so stinking beat up I can split it (i am not tired like they are at this point an know where to aim where as they cant even aim) lol good times... i must say tho, thats the most frustrating stuff i have ever tried to split by hand....

if your new at splitting wood, don't practice on elm, i bet your form will be horrible if you do!

its the reason why the logsplitter was invented!


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## Dan Dill (May 26, 2007)

*The Fiskars Axe at work*

Man I love this thing. This is a 33 inch Tanoak.


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## grandpatractor (May 28, 2007)

Dan Dill said:


> Man I love this thing. This is a 33 inch Tanoak.



+1


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## charlesfarm (Feb 20, 2008)

Bump ...

I just got a Helko Vario 2000 heavy splitting axe like RaisedByWolves initially posted in this thread.

It came via UPS today, and I just had to try it out. I was a bit worried about using it with my smashed left middle finger still on the mend, but I couldn't resist. There wasn't too much pressure on that finger from swinging the axe, so that didn't end up being an issue.

I set up a 30" diam. round of Ash and gave it whack about 3" in from the bark. Nice slab popped right off. Did it again, same result. Again and again, this thing just kept splitting. 5 minutes later and that round was firewood.

I've been using a 6# made in china hardware store maul that I bought for about $25. I just broke my second (oval) handle on it last week and decided to go for the Helko. I'm sure glad I did. The balance is perfect for me and the 5# head is simple to swing and aim accurately. I ended up splitting three 30" rounds of Ash in about 15 minutes, and only stuck the head twice. It was easy enough to rock the handle up and down to free it.

Initially I thought $67.00 was a too much for a splitting axe, but after seeing the photos of it, my wife thought it was worth it and encouraged me to get one!! Now after using it on a few logs, I think it's worth every penny.

I bought a replacement handle to go with it, and I was glad I did -- the axe and handle pushed me well over the $75 mark for free shipping (Hartville Tool special for the month of February).

After splitting the Ash, my wife suggested I try it out on some of the piss Elm we have out back in a pile. The Helko didn't quite make light work of it, but I was impressed with the ability to split an 18" diameter log into about 8 stove sized pieces. Don't get me wrong, the axe bounced back off that Elm several times, but each whack made progress.

When I was done, I oiled the head with some bar-n-chain oil and hung it up in the basement next to my workbench.

I wouldn't consider myself a pro at splitting wood. I used my Dad's old hardware store maul as a kid, a friend's monster maul a couple years ago, my own hardware maul and some fairly thin bladed axes over the years. But the Helko beats all of them hands down!

God bless,
Chris


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## Dan Dill (Feb 23, 2008)

I am still hacking away with the Fiskars at about 30 cord under its belt so far. No complaints. I do need to say the handle is a tad short for me, but I am 6'8" tall also. I got past that in the first week of using it. It breaks down large rounds quickly.


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## charlesfarm (Feb 24, 2008)

I looked at the Fiskars, but I need a longer handle -- I'm a bit accident prone  That thing would be in my shin before a cord was split.  

I also like wood handles on my farm & garden hand tools. I'm a bit nostalgic.

I think I've split about a cord with the Helko so far. I like it better every time I use it.


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## olyman (Feb 24, 2008)

Dan Dill said:


> My wife wants fiberglass, but I want wood??????????????????????
> 
> oh, the possibilites with that statement!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Nailsbeats (Feb 24, 2008)

Dan Dill said:


> I am still hacking away with the Fiskars at about 30 cord under its belt so far. No complaints. I do need to say the handle is a tad short for me, but I am 6'8" tall also. I got past that in the first week of using it. It breaks down large rounds quickly.



Dan, I am with you man, I have been preaching this for years now. Just had mine out today for a workout. It's good to see someone as enthusiastic as I am about it, besides everybody I ever let use it. Keep rollin out the blocks.


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## Bowtie (Feb 24, 2008)

If my splitter wont split it, out comes the 441 or the new 064...


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## Dan Dill (Feb 24, 2008)

Nailsbeats said:


> Dan, I am with you man, I have been preaching this for years now. Just had mine out today for a workout. It's good to see someone as enthusiastic as I am about it, besides everybody I ever let use it. Keep rollin out the blocks.



Several at work now use nothing else. One day in the woods and they were hooked.

P.S. I have found one issue and that is with maple. It shoots the pieces out violently sometimes. I got one piece in the leg recently.


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## Nailsbeats (Feb 24, 2008)

Dan Dill said:


> Several at work now use nothing else. One day in the woods and they were hooked.
> 
> P.S. I have found one issue and that is with maple. It shoots the pieces out violently sometimes. I got one piece in the leg recently.



Ouch! I almost hit my saw today with a piece, too much of a good thing I guess.


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## grandpatractor (Feb 25, 2008)

Yah Guy's , 
Jonseredsjonny and I both have the Fiskers and we both like em alot. We tried the leveraxe out and just kept going back to the fiskers. It seems to make a "sweet" sound when the block pops.


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