# How to cut hung up fallen tree



## DPDISXR4Ti (Jul 15, 2003)

Off the back of my lot there are two trees, each about 50 feet tall, which have fallen into other trees and gotten hung up. One is about at a 45 degree angle, the other is closer to upright, at about a 60 degree angle. What's the proper way to take these things down. The last two times out with the new Husky 353, I've managed to get it pinched badly, requiring some serious effort to get it "un-stuck" I figure I need to work on my technique!

Brad


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## Weatherby (Jul 15, 2003)

Could you give us a little more information about the situation? Were you trying to fell the trees and they got hung up? Basically im asking are the trees still attached to the stump, or are they a result of storm damage?


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## DPDISXR4Ti (Jul 15, 2003)

The trees fell on their own. They were growing next to each other in some heavily rocky soil so they up-rooted fairly easily. I imagine one fell and did enough damage to the roots of the other that it then fell shortly thereafter, but in a different direction.


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## max2cam (Jul 15, 2003)

I'm famous for hanging up trees -- mainly because the woods here are so thick.

What I use is a come-along (hand-winch rachet tool) and some long chains and/or cable. Then I either pull the tree away from the one it is leaning on, or, if the butt is cut free, I drag the leaning tree back by the butt inch by inch until it breaks free and falls. Don't know how attached your roots still might be. Plus you need another tree within reach to anchor to.

I get most of them with those tools and techniques. The really bad ones I just leave but that's rare....


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## buckwheat (Jul 15, 2003)

I recently got a 60' poplar hung up when for whatever reason I didn't make the notch big enough and the sucker came down too slow and twisted into an adjoining tree.
I ended up taking a cordless drill with a big bit and inserted a pipe into the trunk. Then I hooked a cable come-a-long to a nearby tree on the opposite side and "rolled" the tree over towards me, thus twisting the crown out of the other tree and down she came. I have to admit I was really nervous about it and extra cautious. I stayed as far away from the tree and the direction of the cable as much as possible, basically hiding behind another trunk as I ratcheted.


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## Newfie (Jul 15, 2003)

*"The really bad ones I just leave but that's rare...."* 

Your woods sound safe to work and walk around in. 


Hangers are usually a product of improper felling technique as Buckwheat alluded to. Sometimes they seem just unavoidable despite all the best planning and technique.


After cutting through the hinge, if any remains, (don't lose your saw) I try to roll them away from me and out of the "host" tree with a cant hook. That usually works but sometimes they are just stuck.

I have found setting a line up HIGH in the hanger and pulling the crown down with a 2 ton come-along works on the tough ones that won't roll. I use 150 feet of rope so I am plenty clear of the danger zone.

And then there are some really stupid ways....


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## Ryan Willock (Jul 15, 2003)

you could always just get it down with explosives Unless the tree has timber value, I will block it down VERY carefully!!! stress VERY!!!! What I normally do is set a choker around the hung tree and pull it down with the skidder. If (and you probably don't) have a skidder but you can get a truck near it you may be able to pull it out that way but REMEBER that tree is going to land some where and it IS possible that using a truck depending on the circumstances could result in injury or death! Your best bet is to find someone near you with EXPERIANCE in dealing with hung trees.:angel:


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## Oregon_Rob (Jul 15, 2003)

I know this is not always possible, but:
The though keeps coming to mind. Can’t you get a truck or tractor near the butt? I have run chain and or cable to the truck and take off driving the other way. That way, you are not close to the danger area and if it pulls off the stump and is still hung, you just keep driving.


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## Sapwood (Jul 15, 2003)

Rob, I've done exactly that. Had one sit back on the cut so I fell it in the direction of the lean and right into a live oak. It was a dead 70' red elm. Pulled the truck to within 30' and put a log chain on it...couldn't budge it. Got the landowners tractor on it and pulled it right out...it just slid down the live oak until it hit the ground. Not always easy to get that close but it does help to use machines when you screw up!


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## Gypo Logger (Jul 15, 2003)

When caught in this situation, one has several options. You can cut down the tree it is hung into, but you must be able to run faster scared than mad. The tree can also be bucked into lengths until the tree is vertical again, then smash it with some bigger, more offending woody debris. If the leaner isnt some big, ugly, opengrown goontree, than it may come down by rolling with a cant hook. In lieu of that a cable skidder works just fine. 
John


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## Keener (Jul 15, 2003)

"opengrown goontree",
I think Gypo is refering to the species known in latin as "Limbicus maximus spp;delinquenticus".


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## Gypo Logger (Jul 15, 2003)

In view of the fact that I pointed out all the safe ways to remove a hanger, I neglected to talk about the dangers of pulling them down with a tractor. If the stem is large enough it could slide forward under the tractor and flip it over. Picture that in your mind. Use as long of a chain as possible and drive into a clear area. Also if the butt gouges the ground it can flip the tractor over backwards. Big stems boss around small iron. 3 point hitch logging winches work best on tractors making this kind of salvaging safe.
John


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## DPDISXR4Ti (Jul 15, 2003)

I guess my first and primary concern was how to best make the cut to free the trunk from the stump. Two concerns there really.
1) Not getting the blade pinched
2) Not knowing where the trunk would want to "go" once I free it from the stump. 

I thought of cutting the other tree that it's hung up in, but figured I liked living more than having some firewood  The matter gets further complicated by the fact that the other hung tree is nearby, and I could suddenly have three trees falling at once. I'm sure that would make a great story to tell, but I'd sooner make a good one up than BE one on the 11 o'clock news! :angel:

Brad


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## tony marks (Jul 16, 2003)

some o them trees u sent pictures of john... would sling a freight train a mile or to. partially joking. 
mans got to know his limitations.
after that aint nothin to do but call clint,,superman,, or the like...got their personal numbers if u ever needum.


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## racereric (Jul 16, 2003)

Where's Spiderman?


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## max2cam (Jul 16, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Gypo Logger _
> *When caught in this situation, one has several options. You can cut down the tree it is hung into, but you must be able to run faster scared than mad.*


* 

This technique scares me and I avoid it like the plague -- although sometimes it is tempting. With the pressure of the leaning tree on the one you're cutting into, I'm fearful the trunk will split with "explosive" force and the whole shebang come crashing down el pronto on me. We're talking bigger trees now...although even 4-5 inchers have considerable weight when stressed and piled up. 





The tree can also be bucked into lengths until the tree is vertical again,

Click to expand...


I do this too. First make an overcut, then an undercut so that each length drops off. Then attach the chain and come-along if needed. Works pretty well in some situations.*


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## max2cam (Jul 16, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Newfie _
> *"The really bad ones I just leave but that's rare...."
> 
> Your woods sound safe to work and walk around in.
> ...



Some deadfalls are too much hassle to bother with. They stay in place okay. In fact, there is one red pine top about 15 feet long that broke off and is hanging from another red pine. It's been there for over 20 years. Still, I wouldn't stand under it in a storm...


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## DPDISXR4Ti (Jul 16, 2003)

Yea, I'm with Max2Cam, especially with this situation. Not only do I not think I could run fast enough, I'm not so sure I'd know which way to run!  

So you're suggesting first a top cut maybe half way through, and then come up through the bottom facing side? I'm thinking I'd want to make the first cut as close to the bottom as possible, since there might be different directional forces coming from the stump vs. the trunk.

Brad


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## max2cam (Jul 16, 2003)

> _Originally posted by DPDISXR4Ti _
> *I guess my first and primary concern was how to best make the cut to free the trunk from the stump. Two concerns there really.
> 1) Not getting the blade pinched*


* 

It's hard to tell without seeing this mess, but the cutting off a section at a time keeps the bar from pinching (maybe). Cut down -- until the top cut starts to close on you. Then cut upwards from below until the pieces separate. It's a technique -- but don't hold me responsible for what happens next. Come-along helps keeping it from pinching too (see below).

2) Not knowing where the trunk would want to "go" once I free it from the stump.[/quote] 

This is always a touchy moment. The come-along and chains can help by putting directional pressure where you want it to be -- depending how these trees are lined up. 




I thought of cutting the other tree that it's hung up in, but figured I liked living more than having some firewood 

Click to expand...


This is Rule #1 in my book...deadfalls make good wildlife habitat.




The matter gets further complicated by the fact that the other hung tree is nearby, and I could suddenly have three trees falling at once. I'm sure that would make a great story to tell, but I'd sooner make a good one up than BE one on the 11 o'clock news! :angel:

Brad

Click to expand...


This sounds like: 1) wildlife habitat. 2) a job for an expert (or a daredevil). 3) Or what I usually do: 

Get a come-along and long lengths of chain. Hook the chain to the tree that looks like the easiest and/or safest to bring down. Hook the come-along on another tree as far away as possible. Crank the come-along until tight (in the direction you want the tree to fall). Then go in and cut a little, but not too much (don't pinch your bar). Go back and crank the come-along some more until tight. Cut a little more. Cut -- crank -- etc. You will feel the tree start to give -- but be very very alert to the sound of cracking branches and imminent falling while cutting and be ready to sprint FAST. The last act is when you can pull the tree down with the come-long while standing a safe distance away. A long chain is key (I have two 20 foot lengths plus a short cable for wrapping around the anchor tree -- which must be stout). A wimpy come-along is no good either as it will bend too easily when called upon to pull on a stubborn tree. When the tree finally gives and falls, you should be cranking, not cutting.... 

I am not advising anyone to try this, because there is an obvious element of danger...but it works for me (I'm still alive). But there are some I deem too dangerous to mess with and leave them for the woodpeckers.*


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## max2cam (Jul 16, 2003)

Brad,

I would just add this: You can control the situation MUCH better when using a come-along and chains. Trying to cut down a deadfall with only a saw (guessing what's going to happen when you cut that stump end free) adds an element of unpredictability and excitement that I don't personally enjoy. When you pull with a come-along you KNOW where the directional pressure is because you're applying it. Less guesswork and therefore less risk. But still some hazard....


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## max2cam (Jul 16, 2003)

....Unless, of course, the trees are jammed together so badly that there's no direction you can pull them with a reasonable degree of success. But that can usually be judged before you tackle the job.


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## DPDISXR4Ti (Jul 16, 2003)

Appreciate the feedback Max2Cam. I work on cars for a hobby, and am very aware of safety issues. As with many things in life, knowledge of the danger is the key, as only then can you best figure out how to best eliminate or at least greatly reduce any risk factor. You've given me some good ideas.

Thanks,

Brad


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## max2cam (Jul 16, 2003)

Yeah, it's sort of like working under a jacked-up car. Only you want the car (tree) in this case to fall -- only not on you....


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## tony marks (Jul 16, 2003)

i admit to using this method. one thing tho. if the tree is creating a lot of compression on the other tree [,and the standing tree is big enough . u can be in a race for your life when the compression of the standing tree is released. enough to 
splatter u all over the woodsif u get unlucky.jmo ,but i almost met my waterloo that way.


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## Gypo Logger (Jul 16, 2003)

In view of safety, it is not wise to cut down a tree that is holding up another, but I have done it several times. The leaner simply commits the other tree over if sound and notched properly. Sometimes several trees are hung into the same one causing a jackpot, otherwise known as a teepee. Just dump a Goontree into the whole mess and run. Is it any wonder I work alone? In the real world I dont do these things on a regular basis, as it is the exception, not the rule. Falling should be like a gentle, controled dance. I only cut green gold now, so I am not the wild hack artist that I used to be.
John


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## max2cam (Jul 17, 2003)

I also work alone. 

And nobody's luck lasts forever.

That's why if they're too jammed up I don't mess with them. Usually it's one I just cut that "catches" on another tree. More and more I attach the chain and come-along and pull the tree before I start cutting. Woods thick here.


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## buckwheat (Jul 17, 2003)

"Every problem, no matter how large, can be solved with the proper application of explosives" - Sgt. Barry Swope, 1983, at the Salty Dawg Bar and Grill.


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## Oregon_Rob (Jul 17, 2003)

AKA: The bigger hammer solution
One of my favorites


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## Gypo Logger (Jul 20, 2003)

Here's a way to take down leaners, I discovered it today.
John


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## woodbeard (Jul 20, 2003)

Indeed, you are looking much leaner than previously pictured.


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## DPDISXR4Ti (Jul 20, 2003)

Why do I have a vision of you handing the camera to the guy who took the picture, and then saying, "Hey, watch this!" 

Brad


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## VT Hillbilly (Jun 5, 2013)

*Storm damaged trees hung up.*

Here's the situation.I have a very large Red Maple that Y's at about 20'.It snapped during a Severe Thunderstorm we had here a week ago.It did not break completely off,instead,it twisted on itself and the crown is now tangled in four more of my smaller Maples and a fairly large Yellow Birch.At this point I do not care about the other small Maples or the Birch;it's all going toward my firewood for this coming winter now.....I just want to get the damned thing on the ground. Cutting trees under tension is flirting with disaster...not even going there. I am in a position where I think I can safely throw a rope high up in the "hanger" and drag a cable around it and back to a 2 ton come along.I do have a clump of other standing,smaller Maples to "hide" behind.Any thoughts or ideas on anything safer.I also have though about letting nature take it's course and waiting for another storm to "finish the job".Any advice is greatly appreciated.


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## Philip Wheelock (Jun 5, 2013)

VT Hillbilly said:


> ...I have a very large Red Maple that Y's at about 20'.It snapped during a Severe Thunderstorm we had here a week ago.It did not break completely off,instead,it twisted on itself and the crown is now tangled in four more of my smaller Maples and a fairly large Yellow Birch...



Pics would be helpful. Sounds like that broken crown has to be pulled free; the come-along might be enough to do the trick. Like you said, find a tree to hide behind in case something comes flying out your way.


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## DPDISXR4Ti (Jun 5, 2013)

Holy back-from-the-dead thread revival! There's now a house in what was the woods behind me, the area I was discussing 10 years ago! 

Any way, I think most anything you can do to remotely unload the stored energy in those branches is a good idea. Treat the situation like this as a bomb, because it sorta is. Do you have a pole saw? I've used my electric one for situations where the branch is bound up and I don't want to be near it. Be safe. You only get one chance to die so don't practice!


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## Trailtrimmer (Jun 5, 2013)

VT Hillbilly said:


> Here's the situation.I have a very large Red Maple that Y's at about 20'.It snapped during a Severe Thunderstorm we had here a week ago.It did not break completely off,instead,it twisted on itself and the crown is now tangled in four more of my smaller Maples and a fairly large Yellow Birch.At this point I do not care about the other small Maples or the Birch;it's all going toward my firewood for this coming winter now.....I just want to get the damned thing on the ground. Cutting trees under tension is flirting with disaster...not even going there. I am in a position where I think I can safely throw a rope high up in the "hanger" and drag a cable around it and back to a 2 ton come along.I do have a clump of other standing,smaller Maples to "hide" behind.Any thoughts or ideas on anything safer.I also have though about letting nature take it's course and waiting for another storm to "finish the job".Any advice is greatly appreciated.



Is the goal to get it on the ground, or to just get it out of the other trees to it's safe to work on them? The come along idea is a good one, pull the fork section that's down back toward the trunk and get the bulk of the weight on the ground. Even if it's still attached to the trunk at the split, it will be safe to work around when it's still green.

Short of having a safe way of getting to the split that's 20' up, there isn't a whole lot you can do without seeking a pro.


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## bcaarms (Jun 5, 2013)

*If you're really going to do it*

Try to find a tree that is tall enough to climb and lower yourself down to deal with the hung tree. Key poing is to be above anything that can come free to fall or move. It helps to be 20 years old. :msp_tongue:


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## Cloud IT (Jun 5, 2013)

I'm not sure if this is the "right" way to do it, but it's what we have always done and it seems like a safe and easy way to handle it.

We cut a notch in trunk on the top or sky side of the tree and then do a bottom cut and use a plastic wedge to keep the saw from getting pinched if the tension is coming from the stump wanting to spring back up. Normally this isn't the case and you can feel it before you get to the hinge. If it is then we just slide the saw out and cut from the top down. The tree may fall out from the snag or it may simply hit the ground and then we just repeat the process as needed. If the tree is to the point where it's all going to be hanging we pull it out with a come along.

It might not be the proper way but we've done it a bunch of times and never came close to having an accident.


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## CTYank (Jun 5, 2013)

DPDISXR4Ti said:


> I guess my first and primary concern was how to best make the cut to free the trunk from the stump. Two concerns there really.
> 1) Not getting the blade pinched
> 2) Not knowing where the trunk would want to "go" once I free it from the stump.
> 
> ...



I run into standing dead snags at nearby parks- tops often pretty well held. Sometimes brittle stems, and lots of widow-makers above. Since this can so easily mess up one's day, I put together some pix and verbiage to explain a tactic we often use to get it all safely on the ground. Simply put, how to make some felling cuts in the stem, then fell it from below with winches AT A SAFE DISTANCE. It's http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/235574.htm

Haven't had an ER visit in memory.


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## Miles86 (Jun 6, 2013)

Here is a video that show a good way, credit to the video owner--

widowmaker trip.mov - YouTube

use at your own risk, you may still need the help of a tractor to pull the base out.


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## VT Hillbilly (Jun 7, 2013)

Trailtrimmer said:


> Is the goal to get it on the ground, or to just get it out of the other trees to it's safe to work on them? The come along idea is a good one, pull the fork section that's down back toward the trunk and get the bulk of the weight on the ground. Even if it's still attached to the trunk at the split, it will be safe to work around when it's still green.
> 
> Short of having a safe way of getting to the split that's 20' up, there isn't a whole lot you can do without seeking a pro.



The come along idea worked! Took about 75 tries (slight exaggeration!) to throw a rope up into the crown.I then pulled a tow strap up around and threaded it back onto itself.Anchored to the tree I was hiding behind...and started "winchin'". The whole mess is now on solid ground!.It ended up snapping off two of the four smaller Maples.....again,however.....EVERYTHING is now safely on the ground.The whole bunch of 'em are going toward the firewood pile like I said earlier.Thanks for the help!


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