# husqvarna 460 rancher porting and muffler mod



## sawobsessed85 (Jan 28, 2012)

Hi everyone, i am new to the sight although have read alot of info on different forums. After much research i recently decided to purchase a Husqvarna 460 rancher with the 24" bar. I am not a commercial guy and had a budget but didnt want to have to worry about having to buy another saw if a bigger project ever came about. The saw performs well in big hardwood. After much research and obsession i am thinking about having it ported and the muffler modded for better RPMs and performance. I am wondering how much this will cost me and if it is worth it for a saw like this. Definitely dont wanna buy another saw and feel i made the right choice, just looking for some input on this subject. 

Much appreciated


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## dwraisor (Jan 28, 2012)

If you don't want another saw you may have come to the wrong place... CAD is contageous, even throuhgh the your keyboard.


Look up anad PM a few of the port guys on here, one of them may be able to help

dw


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## sawobsessed85 (Jan 28, 2012)

Well i can't lie, i can think of a few more saws i'd love to buy right now but just not necessary i guess. This one currently being my fourth, biggest and most expensive saw i'd like to see what i can make it capable of


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## Stihl n Wood (Jan 28, 2012)

I once had a 460 rancher a ways back, I did a muff mod to it and refined it. It had a little more sack than stock. But being a clamshell design and xtorq as well, its not so easy to port. You may want to just mod the muffler and call it good. You can always sell it and add a little more money to buy a pro saw. If you like huskies than shoot for a 372xp. I'm not saying it can't be ported, but even if you dump money into it, your gonna want something bigger. Welcome to CAD Ville!!! You will see what I'm talking about soon..


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## Andyshine77 (Jan 28, 2012)

Stihl n Wood said:


> I once had a 460 rancher a ways back, I did a muff mod to it and refined it. It had a little more sack than stock. But being a clamshell design and xtorq as well, its not so easy to port. You may want to just mod the muffler and call it good. You can always sell it and add a little more money to buy a pro saw. If you like huskies than shoot for a 372xp. I'm not saying it can't be ported, but even if you dump money into it, your gonna want something bigger. Welcome to CAD Ville!!! You will see what I'm talking about soon..



:agree2: If you want to have it ported you have to pay $200+ and it will still never be a true pro saw. With the extra $200 you could have bought something like a Stihl MS362 for around $650 or better yet a Dolmar 6400 that would pull a 24" bar all day long.


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## MtnHermit (Jan 28, 2012)

sawobsessed85 said:


> Hi everyone, i am new to the sight although have read alot of info on different forums. After much research i recently decided to purchase a Husqvarna 460 rancher with the 24" bar. I am not a commercial guy and had a budget but didnt want to have to worry about having to buy another saw if a bigger project ever came about. The saw performs well in big hardwood. After much research and obsession i am thinking about having it ported and the muffler modded for better RPMs and performance. I am wondering how much this will cost me and if it is worth it for a saw like this. Definitely dont wanna buy another saw and feel i made the right choice, just looking for some input on this subject.
> 
> Much appreciated


Your 460 is a stratocharged engine, by that I mean it has an extra port to inject fresh air into the engine just prior to the fuel air mix from the crankcase. The previous sentence is more than I know/understand. The primary reason for stratocharging is reduced emissions.

I'm sure you're aware that all two strokes are finely tuned beast relying on the dynamic tuning of the intake and exhaust to maximize the fuel/air mix in the combustion chamber at the moment of ignition. Stratocharging greatly complicates this dynamic and most attempts at modding have either been largely unsuccessful or not worth the effort for the minimal gain.

So if it's not too late, return the 460 and get a used non-stratocharged pro saw on CL and mod away. You'll find many modding threads on every pro saw known to man on this forum with pics. 

I own a 455 and if I knew 4-years ago what I know today, I would have followed my advice to you.

Welcome to the CAD forum.


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## Terry Syd (Jan 28, 2012)

They're easy to mod and you can do all the work yourself. Muffler mod, widen the exhaust port, add two more degrees of blowdown and match the shorter intake timing to the same timing as the strato timing. That all they need to wake up their potential.

Do some reading of the various porting threads and learn to use a degree wheel. If you don't have a Dremel, you can use an electric drill and some hand files. If it is the first time at porting, go find some worn out jugs that a dealer is throwing away and practice grinding on them before you do your jug.


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## Andyshine77 (Jan 28, 2012)

MtnHermit said:


> I'm sure you're aware that all two strokes are finely tuned beast relying on the dynamic tuning of the intake and exhaust to maximize the fuel/air mix in the combustion chamber at the moment of ignition. Stratocharging greatly complicates this dynamic and most attempts at modding have either been largely unsuccessful or not worth the effort for the minimal gain.



This is completely false!! the pro strato saws have responded very well to porting. The two cycle engines used in chainsaws are not finely tuned, in fact they are not tuned very well at all.


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## Terry Syd (Jan 28, 2012)

You can make the mods very easy if your not confident on grinding on your own jug. You should use the degree wheel, but you can hack this mod.

The muffler mod - those three mounting tubes that the muffler bolts go in can be converted to outlets. The best mod is to drill in from the outside and open the tubes up on the side opposite the exhaust port, that will keep the muffler quieter. Then you weld/braze a patch on the outside of the muffler where you drilled in. 

The cheap and nasty way and which will make the muffler fairly noisy, is to just reach through the exhaust port opening and grind the holes in the tubes. 

Also open up the existing opening as much as is reasonable. Finished the muffler mods.

Now the trick of porting without grinding - use the piston. Remove one of the transfer covers and watch when the strato cutaway appears over the bottom of the transfer port opening. Now look at the intake port, it will still be closed. Start trimming the back of the piston skirt until the intake port opens the same time as the strato port. You are finished with the intake mods.

Mount the degree wheel and watch your exhaust timing. Trim the edge of the piston at the exhaust opening so that the exhaust opens two degrees earlier.

Or, nip .5mm off the edge of the piston and call it good. Finished with all mods. Bolt it all back together and re-tune, cut wood.

If you screw it up, all you have to do is buy a new piston.

EDIT: To raise the compression ratio a little bit, purchase a Champion RCJ6Y plug, cut the gasket off of it, make a thin gasket from a beer can. Install.


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## sawobsessed85 (Jan 29, 2012)

It definitley seems porting a strato engine is alot more complicated. I just did a muffler mod on a poulan saw i have, havn't got a chance to put it in any wood to tune it yet but the test run in my driveway sure seems like it gained a few more RPMs. I definitley want to at least do a muffler mod on my new husky, sounds like doing that much is worth a shot. I'm not worried bout it being louder, actually i'd like to try n get a lil more of a sound out of it, just like a 2-stroke should. I notice the 3 bolt holes in the front, but not sure of what u mean to drill into them from the outside to make them the outlet. Do i patch the existing top factory port? Is the muffler steel ( able to weld it with mig)? The muffler on my poulan is a multiple piece unit that comes apart, looks like the husky one is a one piece with a crimped flange. 

I appreciate the help guys, I love this stuff and can't help watning to beef up everything i get. its been the same ordeal with my dirtbikes. Love the addiction!!


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## Terry Syd (Jan 29, 2012)

Take the damn muffler off. Now that it is in your hands you can look at it. Look inside it, see the tubes going through it? Reach in through the opening and grind some holes in the side of the tubes so the exhaust will go out through them. See the stock opening on the muffler with the deflector on the top? Can you reach under the deflector and grind out the hole any bigger - then do it.


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## sawobsessed85 (Jan 29, 2012)

I'm sensing some aggression in that response. Anyways, I was reading some good info on tuning the carb for such modifications and have a pretty good understanding about how to do it. Needing to 4 stroke on WOT and clean up totally in wood. Adjustments all in the h side for that seems like. They were saying that you can't tune a carb on a rev limited saw that way, is my 460 rancher considered a rev limited saw and can i still tune the carb that way?


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## Hootsmandoo (Feb 1, 2012)

I'm a 100% FNG with chainsaws except for using them on and off since I was a kid, but I just rebuilt the carb on my Husky 350 with a basic Zama kit (worked like a charm), then reworked the muffler to get a little more pop-and-growl out of it. I read a few of the posts on here and another site, looked at the pictures, and went to it. I sawed into both sides of the deflector where it meets the muffler body, carefully bent it back as one piece, then drilled out the muffler wall and filed and shaped it until it was about 90% the size of the exhaust port from the cylinder. Cleaned up all the burrs and edges that were bent under (the idea being to encourage flow of gases without obstacles). Then I reshaped the underside of the deflector where I had cut it so it exhaust could flow through easily, and so it didn't look like crap. Bent the deflector carefully back into position so it didn't stress crack (one time back and forth showed no signs of cracking). I'll have a buddy weld in a little gusset on each side if I run into trouble with the deflector getting mashed down in use. Put the screen back in - gotta retain spark control and a bit of back pressure - richened the high side per advice from the saw gurus and BAM! Now that basic 350 really jumps when you hit the throttle and it sounds just gnarly enough.

Probably not very scientific and I'm sure I''ll end up fiddling with it as I use it more, but it sure made a difference.

Total mod time: 30 minutes
Total cost: $0
Level of Difficulty: Basic + Research + Common Sense


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## sawobsessed85 (Feb 1, 2012)

Do you have the limiter caps on the carb screws on that saw? Ive been trying to find out if i should/can take them off or if i really even need too.


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## Andyshine77 (Feb 1, 2012)

sawobsessed85 said:


> Do you have the limiter caps on the carb screws on that saw? Ive been trying to find out if i should/can take them off or if i really even need too.



Cut the tabs off with an exacto knife. Yes if you open up the exhaust you will need to give the engine more fuel.


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## Stumpys Customs (Feb 2, 2012)

I have seen really good gains out of the stratto saws that I have ported.


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## Hootsmandoo (Feb 2, 2012)

I'm gonna go with Andyshine's opinion considering he's got a list of saws longer than my list of ex-girlfriends.  I may even go cut the caps off my Husky right now.


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## sawobsessed85 (Feb 2, 2012)

I was looking at some pictures on another thread of the limiter caps on a husky 350 and 455. They are different than mine. Mine are the star shaped w/ a flathead screwdriver slot in the middle and when I took the top engine cover off I still couldn't see the little limiter tabs. There covered all the way to the carb by some black plastic tube or cover. Do I just cut that away too? Or is there a tool I can purchase from husky to remove the limiters? I can take and post pictures if nobody has seen this. I just bought this saw brand new a month ago so maybe its a new design.

Thank You


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## Terry Syd (Feb 2, 2012)

Post a picture, it's always the best way. The type of adjustment screws on the carb may not have limiters on it, it may just be a plastic shield around it. 


EDIT: Noticed that your's have the slots for adjustment.


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## sawobsessed85 (Feb 2, 2012)

Hopefully I'll be able to get some good pictures and get them on here for you guys tomorrow. Also have a pic of the muffler mod I just finished on my poulan. Only a 36cc 14" bar but that little thing screams


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## Andyshine77 (Feb 2, 2012)

sawobsessed85 said:


> Hopefully I'll be able to get some good pictures and get them on here for you guys tomorrow. Also have a pic of the muffler mod I just finished on my poulan. Only a 36cc 14" bar but that little thing screams



Pics always help. From looking at the IPL for the carb, it does appear you may need to remove or cut off the plastic retainers. http://www.hsqintec.sk/vykres/455e460-09.pdf


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## sawobsessed85 (Feb 2, 2012)

Thank you Andyshine, looking at that diagram just made my life alot easier. So i have to take off that black cover/tube which is #11 on page 15, then it looks like the limiters are #42 on page 29. they look to be aluminum. Best way of removing metal limiters like this??? According to the owners manual these saws are really restricted by the EPA and are supposed to be retuned after break in, approximatley 10 hrs. So i break it in, do the muffler mod, remove the limiters.... Do you recommend going from where the screws are set now or from scratch, being the typical 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from seated? And just for conformation, set the L, then Idle, than H. Needs to 4-stroke slightly free rev and clean up totally in wood

Thank You


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## sawobsessed85 (Feb 2, 2012)

I tried marking the black tube, but it didnt turn out. its right by the heatshrink by the middle of that blue wire.


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## Andyshine77 (Feb 3, 2012)

That piece of rubber is just there to keep dust out and to help guide the screwdriver to the needle, remove that and you will see what you need to do from there.


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## sawobsessed85 (Feb 3, 2012)

Thats what i figured that it was just a guide for screwdriver. So what is your suggestion on tuning when time comes, go from where its set now or start from new setting?


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## Andyshine77 (Feb 3, 2012)

Well for you I'd say tune it from where it is. Do you have a tachometer? or a local dealer with one? You'd likely be OK if you open up the high 1/4 of a turn, but that's not guaranteed.


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## sawobsessed85 (Feb 3, 2012)

I do not have a tachometer but want to pick one up. How much do they usually cost? I'd like to get a lil more rpm from where its at now if possible, is that where dialing the Low in to as high as it will go but with good response still comes in? I know every saw is different and I've been reading some like it up around 14,500 and others are running at prime around 11,500 or 12,000. I can say that right now at full free rev it does not 4 stroke. I'm assuming because its still at factory settings


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## jropo (Feb 3, 2012)

Terry Syd said:


> You can make the mods very easy if your not confident on grinding on your own jug. You should use the degree wheel, but you can hack this mod.
> 
> The muffler mod - those three mounting tubes that the muffler bolts go in can be converted to outlets. The best mod is to drill in from the outside and open the tubes up on the side opposite the exhaust port, that will keep the muffler quieter. Then you weld/braze a patch on the outside of the muffler where you drilled in.
> 
> ...



OP

Search n Read.
Then do it again until this ^ makes sence to you.
You should be grateful for him to.........walk you through a port job?:msp_confused:


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## sawobsessed85 (Feb 13, 2012)

I am very greatful. Thanks for all the info an input. BTW, heres a pic of that mod i did on my Poulan. She screams pretty good now. Cuts 10 times faster than my buddy's MS210. That thing is a POS


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## El Quachito (Jun 19, 2012)

How about an airfilter mod. I cleaned mine for the first time today, (new saw), and it's a lot of plastic and not very much filtering material. Anybody know of an aftermarket filter that will fit this saw?


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## GoBigBlue1984 (Oct 12, 2014)

Terry Syd said:


> You can make the mods very easy if your not confident on grinding on your own jug. You should use the degree wheel, but you can hack this mod.
> 
> The muffler mod - those three mounting tubes that the muffler bolts go in can be converted to outlets. The best mod is to drill in from the outside and open the tubes up on the side opposite the exhaust port, that will keep the muffler quieter. Then you weld/braze a patch on the outside of the muffler where you drilled in.
> 
> ...


Do you mind posting any pictures to help explain what you mean by opening the port holes up from the inside?

Thanks a bunch


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## Terry Syd (Oct 12, 2014)

I don't have any pictures, but if you take the muffler off the saw and look into the muffler you will see the three tubes. Just reach inside the muffler and grind a hole/vent in the side of the tubes so the exhaust gas can exit out the front of the tube.

Doing the muffler mod this way will tend to make the muffler a lot louder than if you drill in from the sides of the muffler and put the openings/vents on the side of the tube opposite the exhaust port.


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## Husqavarna Guy (Oct 12, 2014)

Terry Syd said:


> I don't have any pictures, but if you take the muffler off the saw and look into the muffler you will see the three tubes. Just reach inside the muffler and grind a hole/vent in the side of the tubes so the exhaust gas can exit out the front of the tube.
> 
> Doing the muffler mod this way will tend to make the muffler a lot louder than if you drill in from the sides of the muffler and put the openings/vents on the side of the tube opposite the exhaust port.



Hey Terry can you explain removing the spark plug gasket and how it raises the compression ratio? Does it make that much difference? Thanks


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## Terry Syd (Oct 12, 2014)

The Champion plug has a thicker body for the threads and the nose projects a little further than say a NGK BPMR7A plug. Both those things will slightly decrease the combustion chamber volume and raise the compression. The plug is 1/2 colder heat range than the NGK and hasn't caused any fouling problems in my saws. Without the base gasket it decreases the volume of the combustion chamber further by the amount of the thickness of the gasket times the area of the plug.

Some fellows have tried using compression gauges with and without the gasket and have noticed that there is a fair bit of increase in the compression without the gasket - the smaller combustion chambers being the most to benefit. It works, but don't expect any WOW factor like you might get with a pop-up piston.


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## Husqavarna Guy (Oct 12, 2014)

Terry Syd said:


> The Champion plug has a thicker body for the threads and the nose projects a little further than say a NGK BPMR7A plug. Both those things will slightly decrease the combustion chamber volume and raise the compression. The plug is 1/2 colder heat range than the NGK and hasn't caused any fouling problems in my saws. Without the base gasket it decreases the volume of the combustion chamber further by the amount of the thickness of the gasket times the area of the plug.
> 
> Some fellows have tried using compression gauges with and without the gasket and have noticed that there is a fair bit of increase in the compression without the gasket - the smaller combustion chambers being the most to benefit. It works, but don't expect any WOW factor like you might get with a pop-up piston.



So what happens if you remove the gasket from the NGK plug? Any benefit?


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## Terry Syd (Oct 12, 2014)

Yes, you will get a small bump in compression. The concept is the same no matter what plug you use.

If you're looking to get some more power out of the 460, the muffler mod and the piston mods will give you the most significant increase in power.


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## GoBigBlue1984 (Oct 13, 2014)

Thanks Terry for the information, I'll try the muffler mod and plug/gasket trick and let ya know how it turns out.


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## Adam08ski (Feb 2, 2017)

Terry Syd said:


> You can make the mods very easy if your not confident on grinding on your own jug. You should use the degree wheel, but you can hack this mod.
> 
> The muffler mod - those three mounting tubes that the muffler bolts go in can be converted to outlets. The best mod is to drill in from the outside and open the tubes up on the side opposite the exhaust port, that will keep the muffler quieter. Then you weld/braze a patch on the outside of the muffler where you drilled in.
> 
> ...



Terry, I know this is an ancient post but does this apply to a 455 Rancher, got one for less than I think $50 if my exchange rate is good. Never ported this way, usually get the grinder out on the closed transfer port saws I have (254 and 038 mag). This seems like a good idea.

Thanks,

Adam


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## Terry Syd (Feb 2, 2017)

Yep, the 455/460 is the same engine design.


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