# Chain won't spin after tightening the nut



## livemusic (Feb 13, 2016)

Husqvarna 346... got the chain sharpened after hitting some barbwire in a tree, lol... put it back on and I can't figure this out but the chain will not move in the guide bar after tightening the front nut. Everything looks fine and dandy... chain seated around rim sprocket well and in the guidebar groove. I can tighten the back nut with some torque and I can tighten the front nut by hand and the chain still spins like I want it, but if I torque the front nut with the scrench, the chain won't move. As I always say... I know enough to be dangerous, lol... but I cannot figure this out.

It has a Husky Techlite bar. One thing I don't like, the slotted screw that you turn to adjust chain tension... it is all the way to the left from the getgo. I guess it doesn't matter long as the chain snugs correctly. What could be wrong?


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## Mad Professor (Feb 13, 2016)

Chain brake on?


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## grack (Feb 13, 2016)

Check for burrs on the bottom of the drive links.


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## livemusic (Feb 13, 2016)

Mad Professor said:


> Chain brake on?



Nope.


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## mathewsdxt75 (Feb 13, 2016)

Sounds like the bar is bent or the rail has a bend causing a pinch.
Or...
Try a different chain and see what it does.
That would eliminate the chain.


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## MontanaResident (Feb 13, 2016)

Find something that just fills the bars slot, then slowly trace the slot. You've likely a small burr to find then file or sand smooth.


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## livemusic (Feb 13, 2016)

These suggestions being made... why does this non-movement occur upon torquing the front nut? The chain spins fine and dandy until torque is applied. Thanks.


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## J. Talley (Feb 13, 2016)

You're absolutely positive the chain is lined up right and you're not pinching a link with the clutch cover? Does that model have that little plastic piece in the cover that sits next to the chain?


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## MontanaResident (Feb 13, 2016)

You'll have to tell us. You'll know once you figure it out exactly what is going on.



livemusic said:


> These suggestions being made... why does this non-movement occur upon torquing the front nut? The chain spins fine and dandy until torque is applied. Thanks.


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## lone wolf (Feb 13, 2016)

Tighten a little at a time while moving the chain and try to pinpoint what jamming.


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## HarleyT (Feb 13, 2016)

Loosen your chain adjustment, and rotate the chain a bit, then torque the nuts to see if it still does it. That will help you figure out your problem. Don't run the saw with
a loose chain, just try this to help isolate the problem.


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## livemusic (Feb 13, 2016)

J. Talley said:


> You're absolutely positive the chain is lined up right and you're not pinching a link with the clutch cover? Does that model have that little plastic piece in the cover that sits next to the chain?



That is the only thing that makes sense to me -- that tightening the nut is causing the cover to pinch the chain somehow. Going to take a look again.

UPDATE: It's hard to tell for sure, and I did put it on some glass and that was inconclusive... but sighting down the guide bar groove, this bar looks slightly bent to me. Maybe it was this way when I got it. The bar appeared to be new or certainly near new when I got it. I was somewhat disappointed that it's a 14" bar. The saw is ported and really strong, I would rather have at least a 16" bar on it, but that's more money and for limbing, I guess the 14" will be ok. I have not run this saw more than one hour. Hitting that barbed wire in a cut, I can't see how that would bend the bar, seems to me it would just dull the chain. Which it did.


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## Chainsaw Jim (Feb 13, 2016)

Can you take a few pics of the cover and saw with the chain off?


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## livemusic (Feb 13, 2016)

HarleyT said:


> Loosen your chain adjustment, and rotate the chain a bit, then torque the nuts to see if it still does it. That will help you figure out your problem. Don't run the saw with
> a loose chain, just try this to help isolate the problem.



OK, I loosened it up alot and when I tightened the nuts, I could rotate the chain. Not totally freely, but somewhat. As opposed to doing it the 'right way,' meaning I adjust the chain tension like I want it, and then tighten the nuts, and it totally locks up the chain.

What does this indicate? Thanks.


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## lone wolf (Feb 13, 2016)

livemusic said:


> OK, I loosened it up alot and when I tightened the nuts, I could rotate the chain. Not totally freely, but somewhat. As opposed to doing it the 'right way,' meaning I adjust the chain tension like I want it, and then tighten the nuts, and it totally locks up the chain.
> 
> What does this indicate? Thanks.


Chainbrake could be jamming ,look for marks or something bent. do you have another clutch cover you can swap?


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 13, 2016)

I assume that's the right bar and chain for that saw..


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## rob066 (Feb 13, 2016)

Check clutch drum bearing. The bearing holds the drum and rim in alignment to the bar and brake


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## rob066 (Feb 13, 2016)

Also check for bent crankshaft. probably not so but who knows


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## J.Walker (Feb 13, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I assume that's the right bar and chain for that saw..



I was thinking the same thing. 
If he is running a Husky Teclite bar on a 346xp the bar must be a 3/8's LP bar, 50 ga chain. This comb should work but the amount of drive links required may be off by one drive link. He said that the chain adjusted is at one of it's limits.


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## HarleyT (Feb 13, 2016)

put up some pics


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## AVB (Feb 13, 2016)

> got the chain sharpened after hitting some barbwire in a tree


I am wondering if you sharpen the chain yourself or did you have someone else to do it? If it was someone else are you sure you the same chain back? Count your DLs and compare it the bar specs.

As J.Walker wrote it may be off one DL either way and it can be a world difference on some bars.[/quote]


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## old guy (Feb 13, 2016)

My guess is if that bar is 14" it also may be thinner, check the thickness with a mike or caliper, if it is thinner it also may be a 3/8 lo pro bar.

John


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## lone wolf (Feb 13, 2016)

Turn the saw upside down in a vice with the front nut loose , then tighten in increments and look with a flashlight to see if the chain is rubbing on the saw body anywhere.


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## livemusic (Feb 13, 2016)

Thanks for the help, I will get some pics up after I finish my afternoon project.

I don't know if this is the correct bar... I wondered that myself soon as I realized it is a 14" bar on this badass 50cc, ported saw with the next size up larger carburetor. I bet it would even cut well with 18" and maybe even 20"!


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## Old2stroke (Feb 13, 2016)

Try mounting the bar and chain on the saw without using the cover. Make up for the thickness of the cover with a few washers. This will give you a better view of the bar base and the drive sprocket which might help figure out what is going on.


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## mesupra (Feb 13, 2016)

Make sure it's well seated into the drive ring. I've done that before.


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## CR888 (Feb 13, 2016)

Sounds exactly like the symtoms associated with worn drive tangs/worn sprocket. I bet a new sprocket and chain will fix this issue. Sure you can make what you have work and run but best solution would be to replace chain & sprocket to prevent stress to other components. While I am some what guess diagnosing, based on the info given and my experience, its a good guess.


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## J.Walker (Feb 13, 2016)

livemusic said:


> Thanks for the help, I will get some pics up after I finish my afternoon project.
> 
> I don't know if this is the correct bar... I wondered that myself soon as I realized it is a 14" bar on this badass 50cc, ported saw with the next size up larger carburetor. I bet it would even cut well with 18" and maybe even 20"!



I have a ported 346 set up as a limbing saw. 
The saw has a Husky 325 bar, 56 drivers, 50ga. It's about 14"
I run a 8 pin sprocket on the saw.
It's got good chain speed!


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## livemusic (Feb 14, 2016)

Here are some pics. Chain has 52 links, I counted. Every other cutter has 37 stamped on it. What does that mean?


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## livemusic (Feb 14, 2016)

livemusic said:


> Here are some pics. Chain has 52 links, I counted. Every other cutter has 37 stamped on it. What does that mean?View attachment 486102


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## livemusic (Feb 14, 2016)

livemusic said:


> View attachment 486104


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## livemusic (Feb 14, 2016)

livemusic said:


> View attachment 486106


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## livemusic (Feb 14, 2016)

livemusic said:


> View attachment 486107


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## livemusic (Feb 14, 2016)

livemusic said:


> View attachment 486109


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## livemusic (Feb 14, 2016)

I dunno... I clicked on 'thumbnail.' Those pics don't allow you to zoom in? So, I should have clicked on 'full image?'


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## rob066 (Feb 14, 2016)

livemusic said:


> View attachment 486104


It is Husqvarna chain. H37 is .050 gauge 3/8 lo profile chain. You need .325 on that saw.


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## beentown (Feb 14, 2016)

Had a friend...he was having an issue getting his clutch cover off, decided to pry it free with the scrench, then couldnt gt it back on. When I approached he was like a two sweaty monkeys trying to make love to a football...lol



Long story short, he had the chain brake on while trying to remove the cover. His didn't spin freely after that until fixed.


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## livemusic (Feb 14, 2016)

rob066 said:


> It is Husqvarna chain. H37 is .050 gauge 3/8 lo profile chain. You need .325 on that saw.



Did you see the markings stamped on the bar? 3/8", .050", 52DL. Are you saying this chain is not a match (for this bar) or are you just recommending a .325?

As for a chain type, does it matter that this saw is strong, ported and larger carb?


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## rob066 (Feb 14, 2016)

H37 is designed for low hp saws. A 346 can easily bend this chain. .325 pitch have much stronger chassis. The .325 is suited for this type saw HP.


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## JeffGu (Feb 14, 2016)

Yeah... I'm not a Husky guy, but isn't a 346 a 45cc saw that runs .325 chain? Is the sprocket the stock .325 one, and you're trying to run 3/8 Lo Pro on it?


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## lone wolf (Feb 14, 2016)

JeffGu said:


> Yeah... I'm not a Husky guy, but isn't a 346 a 45cc saw that runs .325 chain? Is the sprocket the stock .325 one, and you're trying to run 3/8 Lo Pro on it?


Yes 325


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## juttree (Feb 14, 2016)

My guess is burrs on the drive links. Once tightened they dig in and don't let you spin the chain. Pull the chain off and look, at all the drive links, and file flat if needed.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 14, 2016)

It should say what it is on the bar and on the clutch sprocket or rim, just match them all up and you'll be okay. .325 is the best size for your saw.


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## Big_Wood (Feb 15, 2016)

i'm just wondering where the heck he got a small mount techlite lol i've seen 540's with them so they must exist but seem to be non existant where i'm from. run the chain loose for a few throttle blips then tighten it up. should be good then.


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## mohick (Feb 15, 2016)

it might be a screamer have a big carb, even a v-8 but it don't $hit if the chain don't turn !!!! hahahahahha


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## livemusic (Feb 15, 2016)

mohick said:


> it might be a screamer have a big carb, even a v-8 but it don't $hit if the chain don't turn !!!! hahahahahha



WOW, that's awfully profound, did you go to college? Thanks!


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## Sagetown (Feb 15, 2016)

I know absolutely nothing about Husky saws, but I do know the Chain's Pitch has to match with the Saw's 'Drive Sprocket's Pitch '.
Will that cause the chain to pinch? Also ; if the bar is not laying flush against the saw at the front stud, tightening the front nut will cause the chain to seize. jmtc


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## HarleyT (Feb 15, 2016)

When you put up a pic, click on upload a file. Then when it is loaded, click on "full image".


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## mohick (Feb 15, 2016)

Yep sure school of hard knocks for almost 66 years now. Had a problem figured it out, didn't have internet to post worthless drivvle on then, just common sense and problem solving. shame this country has gotten away from that, from the top all the way down !!!!!!!!!!


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## Sagetown (Feb 15, 2016)

mohick said:


> Yep sure school of hard knocks for almost 66 years now. Had a problem figured it out, didn't have internet to post worthless drivvle on then, just common sense and problem solving. shame this country has gotten away from that, from the top all the way down !!!!!!!!!!


We're all eyes here. So far most have tried to reason the cause of this hang up. What's your opinion ?


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## HarleyT (Feb 15, 2016)

I am wondering if the bar isn't slightly bent in the area I circled.


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## mohick (Feb 15, 2016)

If thats a picture of your chain it ain't worth spit anyway toss it and get something good and then try it again


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## HarleyT (Feb 15, 2016)

Yeah it is pretty bad.


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## Chris-PA (Feb 15, 2016)

Have we determined if the drive sprocket is 0.325" or 3/8?


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## HarleyT (Feb 15, 2016)

We have determined that mohick must be in his late 80s, so we had better figure it out quick!!!


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## Philbert (Feb 15, 2016)

mohick said:


> If thats a picture of your chain it ain't worth spit anyway toss it and get something good and then try it again


Nothing wrong with that chain if sharpened correctly.

To the OP - we can only speculate, based on what you tell us; you are our 'eyes and ears'. Photos help some, but yours are small and a bit hard to see.

As I understand it, the chain was working fine until you took it off to sharpen? Is that correct? If so, then the bar, chain, and sprocket all worked together, and nothing was changed?

Chain binding under the cover, like that, often results from: a mis-match in chain; damage to links (e.g. makes part of the chain wider, causing it to bind up); damage to the guide plates on either side of the chain; etc. Sometimes this is obvious. After the simple things are looked at, replacing parts one-by-one, as suggested, is the best way to find out where the trouble is. That is how I would trouble-shoot it.

It is a good idea to have a spare chain anyway, so that is an easy thing to check. Some links may have been bent or twisted slightly. If the new chain also binds up, then you can start looking at the bar. Sprocket wear is usually pretty easy to see, but you have to pull your clutch/sprocket drum to look at the bearing. You mentioned hitting barbed wire - any chance that that damaged the plates that 'sandwich' the chain when mounted? Any dirt or debris wedged up behind the plates on one side?

Philbert


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## livemusic (Feb 15, 2016)

- Yes, the saw cut great and probably was run not even an hour when I found the barbed wire. I knew it wasn't cutting well suddenly, and saw smoke coming from the cut, lol. I stopped and found the wire in the tree and quit.

- The chain was sharpened by the Stihl dealer on one of those automatic sharpening machines. He said it was still good enough chain and should cut fine now.

- @HarleyT, I don't see evidence of a bend at that spot. I don't know if my eyes are playing tricks on me or what but it still appears to me that the bar is not totally straight, I see a VERY slight bow overall down the length. But I cannot confirm that on a glass surface.

- I have to take off that clutch to see the sprocket. I've seen a video where a guy stuffed a rope inside the cylinder to bind the piston. That makes me nervous, lol. But I don't have any type of piston binding thingy. I can't see the sprocket good enough to identify it without removing the clutch, right? Bear in mind, the saw ran fine for numerous cuts before this problem. And the guy who sold me this knows a lot about saws. It seems unlikely for him to put the wrong chain on but I guess mistakes happen.

- I would rather not buy a spare chain because I am not sure I will keep this bar/chain setup. I guess I will if I have to.

I am going to try to upload better pics next.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 15, 2016)

If it worked okay before it probably is the right size. The bar states it's a 3/8 .050 gauge. To make sure the chain is right just measure between any 3 rivets (in a row) on the chain and divide by 2. If the chain is a 3/8 it should measure over .7", if it measures .650 it is a .325. It appears to the the right chain in the picture.


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## livemusic (Feb 15, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> ... The bar states it's a 3/8 .050 gauge. To make sure the chain is right just measure between any 3 rivets (in a row) on the chain and divide by 2...



I didn't quite follow you there. Measure and then divide by two?

The distance between three rivets in a row is about 11.5/16", so, 23/32", so, that is .71875". Is that what you mean?

I am still waiting on pics to upload to my laptop.


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## livemusic (Feb 15, 2016)

I have a helluva time putting the chain onto the bar, on the saw. There is just no slack. As I said, even with the chain tensioning screw being all the way to the left. There may be some trick I don't know but I have to really work at it to get the chain on. It doesn't go on anything near as easy as youtube videos, lol. I'm not smart enough to figure it out what's going on with that problem either.


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## hanniedog (Feb 15, 2016)

If you have a bench vise clamp the bar in it. Then proceed to to feed the chain into the bar to see if it moves smoothly or not. This will see if a driver has a burr on it or not.


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## livemusic (Feb 15, 2016)

hanniedog said:


> If you have a bench vise clamp the bar in it. Then proceed to to feed the chain into the bar to see if it moves smoothly or not. This will see if a driver has a burr on it or not.



I can't find a burr in it but I will try again.


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## livemusic (Feb 15, 2016)




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## juttree (Feb 15, 2016)

It only takes a few of the drivers to have burrs and it will stop the chain from spinning freely. Do what westcoaster said and put the chain on loose and run it a couple of blips of the throttle then tighten it normal.


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## livemusic (Feb 15, 2016)

I give up trying to upload a pic of the inside of the clutch cover. Error, time after time. I uploaded it early on in the thread, maybe you can double click on it and make it bigger?


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## hanniedog (Feb 15, 2016)

Does the sprocket in bar tip turn freely?


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## Philbert (Feb 15, 2016)

livemusic said:


> I didn't quite follow you there. Measure and then divide by two?





Husqvarna H37 chain is 3/8 low profile ('mini'), .050 (1.3mm) gauge chain. This matches the markings on the bar. Can't see the sprocket.
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/accessories/chainsaw-chains/h37-3-8-mini-pitch-1-3-mm/576936545/



livemusic said:


> I have a helluva time putting the chain onto the bar, on the saw. There is just no slack.


Several people have noted that this saw usually is equipped with .325 pitch chain. Looking at your photo in Post #51 above, it almost looks like the front of the bar adjustment slot is filed towards the front. It is not uncommon for people to swap out bars, chains, sprockets, etc. on a saw - usually not a problem if they match as a set.

Your comments about the lack of slack make me wonder if this set up was modified to fit? Still, that should not affect the chain binding issue, if it worked before, as you indicate.

This is part of what makes saws '_interesting_' . . .

Philbert


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## Chris-PA (Feb 15, 2016)

As suggested upthread, mount up the bar without the clutch cover using washers or a larger nut as a spacer. Then you can see what is going on. It's not magic, just some simple mechanical interference.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 15, 2016)

livemusic said:


> I didn't quite follow you there. Measure and then divide by two?
> 
> The distance between three rivets in a row is about 11.5/16", so, 23/32", so, that is .71875". Is that what you mean?
> 
> I am still waiting on pics to upload to my laptop.


 No, it should just be between .650 to .750". 650 divided by 2 is .325 I'm talking about the rivets that hold the chain together.


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## livemusic (Feb 15, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> No, it should just be between .650 to .750". 650 divided by 2 is .325 I'm talking about the rivets that hold the chain together.



Huh? It IS between .650" and .750" -- as I said, it is about .71875". Divide that by two and you get .359375". Of course, that is just by guessing, eyeballing a ruler, I don't have a caliper. So, does 1/2 of .71875" (.359375") indicate that it is 3/8 (.375) and not a .325 chain?

The pic posted by Philbert above... the distance between the two dashed lines... on mine, that is what I am calling .71875".

I am going to run the saw just a little and try again as some have suggested.


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## HarleyT (Feb 15, 2016)

The chain looks like a 3/8 lo/pro, the bar is, but is the sprocket? The 346 calls for a .325 rim setup. What is the history behind this saw?


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## livemusic (Feb 15, 2016)

Somebody got hold of a near mint 346xp (50cc version) that had done test cuts only and had it ported. Also installed Walbro HDA199 carb. Ran one tank of gas through it afterwards. I have run it maybe one hour.

I got a fancy ruler on it wearing a jeweler's rouge. I still get 23/32" between 3 rivets... .71875". That should be .75"? Does it seem odd that it is not .65" and not .75" but it is .71875"?

I don't know if I can take the clutch cover off, never done it, will try, but I don't like sticking a rope down into the cylinder, lol. I assume I have to remove the clutch to see the sprocket so I can determine sprocket size.


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## livemusic (Feb 15, 2016)

hanniedog said:


> Does the sprocket in bar tip turn freely?



Yes.

I ran it a little bit with the chain somewhat loose and then tightened normally. Same problem upon tightening the nuts. I did this procedure twice.


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## Jeff Lary (Feb 15, 2016)

This is probably wrong but here goes, you said the Husqvarna guy sharpened it on his grinder right? Are you positive he gave you back the right chain? I can picture a grinder and 2 or 3 chains lying on his bench maybe he grabbed the wrong pitch chain and passed it to you?


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## livemusic (Feb 15, 2016)

Jeff Lary said:


> This is probably wrong but here goes, you said the Husqvarna guy sharpened it on his grinder right? Are you positive he gave you back the right chain? I can picture a grinder and 2 or 3 chains lying on his bench maybe he grabbed the wrong pitch chain and passed it to you?



It was actually a Stihl dealer that does not carry Husky now that I think about it, lol. He sharpened it as I stood around and as I recall, I was nearby and I think he took a few steps and handed it to me right from the grinder after putting the last grind on it.

Also, it does have 52 links.


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## Chris-PA (Feb 15, 2016)

livemusic said:


> I don't know if I can take the clutch cover off, never done it


Yes you have - this is the clutch cover:






Now bolt up the bar and chain without it, using washers or large nuts as a spacer. Then you can see what is going on. Keep a perspective on this - it is a simple mechanical assembly and you can see how it works.


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## livemusic (Feb 15, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> Yes you have - this is the clutch cover:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I meant clutch, not clutch cover. You're right, I have obviously taken off the clutch cover!


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## Philbert (Feb 15, 2016)

livemusic said:


> Does it seem odd that it is not .65" and not .75" but it is .71875"?


"3/8" is a nominal measurement, like "2 by 4". Don't even get started on that . . . .



Jeff Lary said:


> Are you positive he gave you back the right chain?


The chain is marked '37' - Husqvarna's code for 3/8 low pro chain.

Philbert


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## Philbert (Feb 15, 2016)

livemusic said:


> I meant clutch, not clutch cover.




My bet is still to try a new chain - about $16 around here. Some places will even let you return it with a receipt, if you keep it clean and don't cut with it.

Philbert


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## mohick (Feb 15, 2016)

Screw it i am out a here this guy is going to hurt himself !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## beentown (Feb 15, 2016)

My bet is still on this having a .325 drive...

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## livemusic (Feb 15, 2016)

Went ahead and stuffed a rope in the cylinder, lol. Got the clutch off, it says Oregon 38-7 on the rim sprocket. So, that matches, right?

I don't know what a worn sprocket looks like, but this one looks fine to me. The 7 splines, where they fit into the 7 grooves, there is a little slop, but not much.


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## AVB (Feb 15, 2016)

That would be a 3/8 (.375) pitch rim.


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## cmsmoke (Feb 15, 2016)

Since nobody here can lay a hand on your saw to see what is going on, why don't you take it to a dealer and ask them to show you what is wrong. I don't believe your problem is in the chain, bar or sprocket. There are several possibilities that weren't mentioned, one such issue would be the alignment of the chain brake mechanism between the saw and the clutch cover. There has to be a simple explanation.


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## livemusic (Feb 15, 2016)

cmsmoke said:


> Since nobody here can lay a hand on your saw to see what is going on, why don't you take it to a dealer and ask them to show you what is wrong. I don't believe your problem is in the chain, bar or sprocket. There are several possibilities that weren't mentioned, one such issue would be the alignment of the chain brake mechanism between the saw and the clutch cover. There has to be a simple explanation.



I'm going to have to do it if I don't figure it out, but it's 90 miles round trip, so, trying to avoid that.


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## cmsmoke (Feb 15, 2016)

It may not have to be a Husqvarna dealer. Anyplace that works on chainsaws should be able to see what is Going on. Explain to them what happened.


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## Chris-PA (Feb 15, 2016)

Again, if you'll just bolt on the bar and chain without the cover, you can probably just look at it as you tighten the nuts and see what is wrong. 

That you can barely get the chain on and the adjuster is at the end of its travel raises a few flags. Is the tail of the bar too close to the drive sprocket?


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## Chris-PA (Feb 15, 2016)

BTW, if that's a 7 tooth 3/8 sprocket then it is likely full 3/8, not 3/8 lo pro like that chain appears to be. It still should not bind.


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## hanniedog (Feb 15, 2016)

Why not see if there is a site member close to your location. If so maybe they could help sort this out.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 15, 2016)

livemusic said:


> Huh? It IS between .650" and .750" -- as I said, it is about .71875". Divide that by two and you get .359375". Of course, that is just by guessing, eyeballing a ruler, I don't have a caliper. So, does 1/2 of .71875" (.359375") indicate that it is 3/8 (.375) and not a .325 chain?
> 
> The pic posted by Philbert above... the distance between the two dashed lines... on mine, that is what I am calling .71875".
> 
> I am going to run the saw just a little and try again as some have suggested.


 Yep, it's a 3/8. 3/8 is .375.


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## Philbert (Feb 15, 2016)

livemusic said:


> I don't know what a worn sprocket looks like, but this one looks fine to me.







You learned a new skill!
Inspect and grease the roller bearing a bit before reassembling. 

Philbert


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## 54stude (Feb 15, 2016)

I have a 335xpt husky that does the same thing you are describing, and it is an "almost correct application" cheapie box store Oregon bar with a hollow tail that binds up when the bar nuts are tightened.


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## buzz sawyer (Feb 16, 2016)

fwiw, a true 3/8 chain will not measure .375 
It comes out to about .367.


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## Marshy (Feb 16, 2016)

Ever once in a while these threads come up and it amazes me how many pages it takes before it gets resolved. One of the reasons it takes so damn long is because the OP won't take the advice and actually try what is mentioned. At this point, just writing this feels like a waist of time. I would go find a similar thread and link it here but after 5 pages it probably has already been covered. If anyone is inclined they can use the search and find one, maybe it's 10 pages long and has 5 pages of ides that haven't been mentioned yet.


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## hanniedog (Feb 16, 2016)

I had a similar problem like this. Turned out it was narrow kerf bar with a regular kerf chain. Chain was correct drive count, correct gauge, just wrong kerf. i listened to folks advice and got it sorted out fast. Learned about regular and narrow kerf at this time.


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## mohick (Feb 16, 2016)

I agree with a private message I just got from another member! Screw this idiot he is just messing with all of us, no one can be this stupid , put him on ignore. More important stuff to do than screw with TROLLS!


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## hanniedog (Feb 16, 2016)

Could be a troll or someone not to mechanically inclined. In the latter case it might take 27 8x10 photographs with circles and arrows showing what to look for before it hits home.


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## SawTroll (Feb 16, 2016)

beentown said:


> My bet is still on this having a .325 drive...



Yes, a 3/8" lo-pro bar and chain, likely combined with a .325 drive sprocket (rim). What is happening to the OP is normal with such a combination, definitely NO-GO - *and will create fluctuations in chain tension.*

No 3/8" lo-pro drive sprocket (rim) for that saw is easily available, although it can be done (large 7-spline drum from a 562xp and a large 7-spline 7-pin rim from GB).

A _regular_ 3/8" rim (those are easily available for that saw) won't work properly with a 3/8" lo-pro chain either - it is too small, and will work about like a proper one that is worn well past its useful "life".


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## SawTroll (Feb 16, 2016)

hanniedog said:


> I had a similar problem like this. Turned out it was *narrow kerf bar with a regular kerf chain*. Chain was correct drive count, correct gauge, just wrong kerf. i listened to folks advice and got it sorted out fast. Learned about regular and narrow kerf at this time.



That combination will normally work on some saw model (like the 346xp in question here), while not on others (like the 550xp)....

It isn't meant to work though, so it's just a bonus when it does.


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## livemusic (Feb 16, 2016)

Marshy said:


> Ever once in a while these threads come up and it amazes me how many pages it takes before it gets resolved. One of the reasons it takes so damn long is because the OP won't take the advice and actually try what is mentioned. At this point, just writing this feels like a waist of time. I would go find a similar thread and link it here but after 5 pages it probably has already been covered. If anyone is inclined they can use the search and find one, maybe it's 10 pages long and has 5 pages of ides that haven't been mentioned yet.



You have no idea what is going on in my life since this thread was started 72 hours ago, and I am not going to go into it. I have been doing the suggestions, sorry it does not fit your timetable. 

I also am not at my home with my shop; I do not have a vise where I am. Furthermore, I am new to chainsaws. I do not have the knowledge of a lifetime of messing with them.

There have been many helpful suggestions and I appreciate it and have said 'thanks' more than once, and I hope to get to the bottom of this.

Now, I can understand why those other people started that other forum. I had heard that this forum had a lot of rude posters with way too much animosity. Looks like it's true.

Thanks to all of you who have made suggestions and have remained civil. You mean-spirited ones, unbelievable you get so worked up over a forum thread.


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## SawTroll (Feb 16, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Yep, it's a 3/8. 3/8 is .375.



Yes, but 3/8 is just nominal (not exact) as a chain pitch - so that math/translation is irrelevant (and inaccurate).


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## Marshy (Feb 16, 2016)

If that post came off as rude I apologize. When I wrote it I realized it could be taken as if I was saying you were not taking the advice but I didn't elaborate. I havent followed closely enough to believe that was the case hence I said "one reason", which is usually the case... I also actually gave you some advice to go read some similar threads but you didn't pick up on it likely from my sarcasm. Sorry.


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## HarleyT (Feb 16, 2016)

livemusic said:


> You have no idea what is going on in my life since this thread was started 72 hours ago, and I am not going to go into it. I have been doing the suggestions, sorry it does not fit your timetable.
> 
> I also am not at my home with my shop; I do not have a vise where I am. Furthermore, I am new to chainsaws. I do not have the knowledge of a lifetime of messing with them.
> 
> ...



Since "Mohick" is in his late 80's, we cut him a little slack, they let him on the internet for an hour a day at the *** old folks home, but they might curtail his bingo
priveleges if he keeps acting up.........

Take the bar/chain off, and just rotate the chain around the bar by hand, and observe closely, and see where it binds, it just may be one burr or kink.


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## HarleyT (Feb 16, 2016)

Marshy said:


> Ever once in a while these threads come up and it amazes me how many pages it takes before it gets resolved. One of the reasons it takes so damn long is because the OP won't take the advice and actually try what is mentioned. At this point, just writing this feels like a waist of time. I would go find a similar thread and link it here but after 5 pages it probably has already been covered. If anyone is inclined they can use the search and find one, maybe it's 10 pages long and has 5 pages of ides that haven't been mentioned yet.



Oh, you mean this guy!! Yeah, it can be frustrating for us trying to help, but then we don't realize that you are getting ideas and suggestions from 30 different guys, so you
can't follow and try all of the ideas thrown at you, or you , being new here, would know which members are even close to being correct. Some of the guys here might even
suggest you need a complete engine rebuild!


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## lone wolf (Feb 16, 2016)

livemusic said:


> You have no idea what is going on in my life since this thread was started 72 hours ago, and I am not going to go into it. I have been doing the suggestions, sorry it does not fit your timetable.
> 
> I also am not at my home with my shop; I do not have a vise where I am. Furthermore, I am new to chainsaws. I do not have the knowledge of a lifetime of messing with them.
> 
> ...


I agree they dont know what is going on . It was rude!


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## Old2stroke (Feb 16, 2016)

This is getting hugely frustrating. Come on you guys, the saw worked fine before he hit the wire so stop dogging on issues of chain/bar/sprocket compatibility.
For the love of chainsaws and all things mechanical, will you PLEASE mount the bar and chain on the saw without the cover and carefully inspect what's going on at the base of the bar. Did the chain move freely right after it met the wire? Was the bar always positioned as far back as it would go? My 2-cents worth is that the chain has become kinked somewhere or has burs that prevent it from straightening out properly and now appears to be shorter, requiring the bar to be moved back. To get the chain on the bar, you may have had to tilt the bar away from the saw, and when you tighten the bar nuts, it brings the bar back in and swings the back end of the bar into contact with the clutch drum, jamming it. Just a theory, and I really don't like it because the end of the bar should not be able to contact the clutch drum, but maybe with a bar not meant for that saw...... Also if there is something wrong with the chain the grinder operator should have noticed it.


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## Chris-PA (Feb 16, 2016)

It may be frustrating waiting for someone to follow advice, but you know it is his saw and his problem to solve - he'll get to it if it's important to him. Why should it make anyone else angry or cause them to get rude? If he never fixes it my saws will still work fine - so help if you can but there's no need to be impolite.


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## tla100 (Feb 16, 2016)

Did clean out the bar grove well. Run a small flat head screw driver down from the sprocket to the end that bolts to saw. Also, check for burs or anything the hang up while cleaning. Then blow out with compressed air to make sure clean. Clean and blow chain off. Bolt on using large washers without clutch cover, like Old2stroke said above and get back to us. 

It is hard to always get common terms and know what everyone is talking about online if new to something.


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## SawTroll (Feb 16, 2016)

livemusic said:


> Went ahead and stuffed a rope in the cylinder, lol. Got the clutch off, it says Oregon 38-7 on the rim sprocket. So, that matches, right?
> 
> I don't know what a worn sprocket looks like, but this one looks fine to me. The 7 splines, where they fit into the 7 grooves, there is a little slop, but not much.



Sorry, I missed this post the first time around.

The answer really is NO, it doesn't match, as that rim is a regular 3/8" one and not a lo-pro one. Oregon doesn't sell any rims for 3/8" lo-pro chain.

Mostly that combination _sort of_ works, but it is like using a rim that is worn well past its useful "life" (diameter is to small).

I don't really know if it can cause the issue you have, but usually it doesn't.


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## SawTroll (Feb 16, 2016)

Something I would try is to leave a little extra slack in the chain with the nuts finger tight, and then recheck the tension after tightening the nuts. If it helps, make a mental note of how much slack to leave (sort of a "Kentucky windage"). It may solve the problem _if the bar and chain is OK._

Avoid over-tightening both the chain and the nuts.


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## sweepleader (Feb 16, 2016)

The pictures show what looks like a lot of crud on the mounting surfaces for the bar and cover. A small spot of debris could be causing the bar to misalign or bend when the nuts are torqued. I would suggest cleaning the entire area including both sides of both chain guides, the bar, the drive case and the clutch cover to be sure there is nothing in there that should not be. Good luck.


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## smokey7 (Feb 16, 2016)

It's interesting how many threads are put about not oiling, cutting crooked, cutting a few inches and no further. Then the saw bound up with brake on or wrong bar gauge pitch combos. Is a hot topic. Continue I am curious of the answer now.


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## Philbert (Feb 16, 2016)

I have learned a lot of things here on AS over the past 10 years (!!! hey, I missed my anniversary - Darin did not send flowers!!!). Some appear 'obvious' in hindsight, with the knowledge I acquired later, or because they are common issues. But it is easy to forget not knowing that stuff. It is also easy to assume that someone else's problem is always due to the same cause. Aside from trying to help out 'newbies', I often learn learn stuff from threads like this, especially when it is due to something that is not obvious.

It can be frustrating to diagnose problems at a distance - the OP might describe or take a photo of what he/she thinks is the issue, while an experienced eye might notice something else right away.

It is clear that this saw has a non-standard bar and chain set up, which is probably related to the problem. The challenging part is that the OP says it was working until he hit the barbed wire. Was something damaged by the wire (bent chain links can be hard to find, even when you are looking for them)? Was this bar/chain set up about to fail anyway (drive sprocket incompatibility)? Is it related to the '_lack-of-slack_'? 

***Even if he 'solves' his problem by replacing the bar, chain, and sprocket with the standard ones for that saw, I want to know what it was about the current set up that caused the problem.*** Was it a bent link? Is the bar tail too long? Are the guide plates damaged? Design limits of this Husky? Etc. That way, I learn something as well.

Philbert


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## HarleyT (Feb 16, 2016)

Philbert said:


> I have learned a lot of things here on AS over the past 10 years (!!! hey, I missed my anniversary - Darin did not send flowers!!!).
> 
> Philbert


Don't hold your breath!!


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## fearofpavement (Feb 16, 2016)

What frustrates me about this thread is that I encountered a similar situation on a saw once. It also seemed fine until the bar was clamped down and then the chain wouldn't turn. I can't for the life of me remember what the issue was. I do remember that the chain was pressing into the body of the saw but I can't remember why or what I did to remedy it. Can't even remember what brand of saw it was.


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## Chris-PA (Feb 16, 2016)

fearofpavement said:


> What frustrates me about this thread is that I encountered a similar situation on a saw once. It also seemed fine until the bar was clamped down and then the chain wouldn't turn. I can't for the life of me remember what the issue was. I do remember that the chain was pressing into the body of the saw but I can't remember why or what I did to remedy it. Can't even remember what brand of saw it was.


Getting old sucks sometimes.


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## fearofpavement (Feb 17, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> Getting old sucks sometimes.


No kidding. I've been wracking my brain on this because it's probably the same issue but I just can't pull it off the hard drive...


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## Philbert (Feb 17, 2016)

Brain won't spin after tightening . . .

Philbert


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## SCHallenger (Feb 17, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> Getting old sucks sometimes.



LOL! And it gets worse! Getting back to the issue, I like your idea as the best place to start being to mount the B&C without the clutch cover using the nuts & washers & see if the chain can be freely pulled by hand. Another thought comes to mind. If I remember correctly (can't count on that) the OP said he continued to cut after damaging the chain & some smoking occured. I would expect the chain to stretch from being overheated, but maybe some warpage took place?? I had to chime in here, because I am very curious as to what the answer is.


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## lone wolf (Feb 17, 2016)

SCHallenger said:


> LOL! And it gets worse! Getting back to the issue, I like your idea as the best place to start being to mount the B&C without the clutch cover using the nuts & washers & see if the chain can be freely pulled by hand. Another thought comes to mind. If I remember correctly (can't count on that) the OP said he continued to cut after damaging the chain & some smoking occured. I would expect the chain to stretch from being overheated, but maybe some warpage took place?? I had to chime in here, because I am very curious as to what the answer is.


Wonder if he smoked the chainbrake band?


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## Chris-PA (Feb 17, 2016)

lone wolf said:


> Wonder if he smoked the chainbrake band?


It looks OK here:








SCHallenger said:


> LOL! And it gets worse! Getting back to the issue, I like your idea as the best place to start being to mount the B&C without the clutch cover using the nuts & washers & see if the chain can be freely pulled by hand. Another thought comes to mind. If I remember correctly (can't count on that) the OP said he continued to cut after damaging the chain & some smoking occured. I would expect the chain to stretch from being overheated, but maybe some warpage took place?? I had to chime in here, because I am very curious as to what the answer is.


Why did I walk over to this part of the shop again?

I'm curious too! Something doesn't look right about the tail of this bar:









Does it look like it's been cut off, and those corners left sharp? Maybe the tail is too close to the sprocket and the chain is getting hung up on those back corners? Could be just an illusion from the pictures I suppose.


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## beentown (Feb 17, 2016)

lone wolf said:


> Wonder if he smoked the chainbrake band?



Yeah, said that earlier. Had a friend pry his clutch cover off....had the chain brake on and didnt think of that. After reassembling the chain wouldnt spin freely.


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## lone wolf (Feb 17, 2016)

beentown said:


> Yeah, said that earlier. Had a friend pry his clutch cover off....had the chain brake on and didnt think of that. After reassembling the chain wouldnt spin freely.


There it is.


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## Chris-PA (Feb 17, 2016)

beentown said:


> Yeah, said that earlier. Had a friend pry his clutch cover off....had the chain brake on and didnt think of that. After reassembling the chain wouldnt spin freely.


Hold on, now you've confused the heck out of me. The OP didn't say that. But you did! http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...tightening-the-nut.293538/page-2#post-5760623


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## beentown (Feb 17, 2016)

I said that earlier, not the OP. I had a friend with the same issue, he had pryed has cover off. Not the OP.


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## lambs (Feb 17, 2016)

That bar does look as though it was cut off.


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## tla100 (Feb 17, 2016)

Bar may have been cut, but it don't look like it was rubbing on clutch. Plus, it ran for an hour plus before with no issues before hit wire.


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## Brettl (Feb 18, 2016)

It does appear that the bar has been altered. WHAT IF: There were thin shims over each stud allowing maybe .01" more space between the clutch cover and bar? The chain hit wire, sending a violent shock through chain and bar. Maybe the shim wasn't fully captured and fell out in between the parts flexing and resetting. Or the shim fell out without you noticing when you removed the clutch cover. IF my highly hypothetical shim or something similar ever existed, it may have been rendered unrecognizable through the wire incident. Obviously this is purely theoretical and just my long winded way to point out that there may have been other alterations other than the bar that appears to have been shaved.


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## Matt B (Feb 18, 2016)

I had to use shims on the bar stud of an 020av to prevent the bar rails from closing and subsequently pinching the chain when the nut was tightened. Only occurred on one particular bar that was a cheap and nasty. Brettl's theory seems interesting as it may address the before and after situation.

The whole bar and chain set up on this ported saw seems very suspect. Short of it being set up for racing I have a funny feeling that the previous owner may have just wanted to get rid of that B&C. Obviously that doesn't address the subject problem nor the fact it worked well before the wire was struck.

Have you tried Chris' suggestion of installing the B&C without the sprocket/clutch cover? That seems to be a good starting point.


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## Chris-PA (Feb 18, 2016)

Matt B said:


> Have you tried Chris' suggestion of installing the B&C without the sprocket/clutch cover?


Actually it was Old2stroke's suggestion in response #25 above - I just repeated it because I use this method a lot to diagnose these kinds of problems.


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## HuskStihl (Feb 18, 2016)

When this has happened to me, it has always been a problem with the brake


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## Jeff Lary (Feb 18, 2016)

and on we go....


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## SawTroll (Feb 18, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> ....
> Does it look like it's been cut off, and those corners left sharp? Maybe the tail is too close to the sprocket and the chain is getting hung up on those back corners? Could be just an illusion from the pictures I suppose.



That may happen, at least if the one that cut the bar didn't bevel the rear end of the rails properly (since he didn't bother rounding the corners off, it is likely that he didn't).

Wrong sprocket for the chain + a bar that isn't meant for that saw model, and has a questionable modification to the tail...

The issues are adding up - and if that bar is thinner than a .325 NK bar, it is no wonder that it doesn't work (without shims in the clamping area).

Also, the bar is an A095 and not a K095, but that shouldn't really matter _by itself_ with a 7-pin 3/8" rim.


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## Brettl (Feb 18, 2016)

SawTroll said:


> That may happen, at least if the one that cut the bar didn't bevel the rear end of the rails properly (since he didn't bother rounding the corners off, it is likely that he didn't).
> 
> Wrong sprocket for the chain + a bar that isn't meant for that saw model, and has a questionable modification to the tail...
> 
> The issues are adding up - and if that bar is thinner than a .325 NK bar, it is no wonder that it doesn't work (without shims in the clamping area).



All true but he said it worked before. Imo, it's clear that the wire contact changed enough to cause this. It may be a combination of things. When the impact wit the wire occurred, the chain jerked back against the bar and in turn the bar impacted the front stud. Since the binding occurs when tightening the front stud, maybe the saw is damaged where it threads in. Tightening the stud could be pulling a damaged thread base against the inside of the bar.... Idk, just random thoughts.


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## Philbert (Feb 18, 2016)

I think that the saw is toast.

To the OP - send me the saw, without the bar and chain, and I will reimburse you up to $25 for shipping to properly dispose of it.

Philbert


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## Jeff Lary (Feb 19, 2016)

Where did he go? that waskelly wabbit ?


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## Chris-PA (Feb 19, 2016)

Jeff Lary said:


> Where did he go? that waskelly wabbit ?


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## mohick (Feb 20, 2016)

Who cares he was smokin something besides his chain!!!!


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## merc_man (Feb 20, 2016)

My 353 husky you gotta make sure drive links are in sprocket or it will bind too when tighten the bar nuts. Only saw i got that is like this any other saw the chain goes write into place. 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk


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## jdvsn83 (Feb 20, 2016)

Did you count the drive links?? I think the chain is shorter than bar specs and it causes a misalignment...


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## tla100 (Feb 21, 2016)

jdvsn83 said:


> Did you count the drive links?? I think the chain is shorter than bar specs and it causes a misalignment...



The bar has been cut, so it will not matter what the recommended chain is.


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## jdvsn83 (Feb 21, 2016)

tla100 said:


> The bar has been cut, so it will not matter what the recommended chain is.



Ok...


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## tla100 (Feb 21, 2016)

jdvsn83 said:


> Ok...



Although, I put a 32" Deere bar on my MS660, I trimmed the bar maybe 3/8" or so, it went on the Stihl with the chain tensioner about maxed out. I ran it, but a touch loose. I took a link out and was Mucho Bueno...... So, if you don't know how much was cut off the bar, could be 1/4"-1".......it could be a link or 2 off.

The OP did say the tension screw was all the way to the left, so, if anything he should add a link to chain. Or cut bar a little more and contour it to fit around clutch, so it is not so tight to but bar and chain back on.


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## Gypo Logger (Feb 21, 2016)

I see only four obvious causes from here.
The chainbrake in the sprocket cover has been activated.
The plastic buffer guide is out of allignment .
The drive links are burred if a chain toss happened
Or a tie strap has became elevated off one rivet.


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## Gypo Logger (Feb 21, 2016)

Live chain toss. Looks like the dweeb didn't even notice. Lol


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## HarleyT (Feb 21, 2016)

A Dumbrowski sawmill?


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## Gypo Logger (Feb 21, 2016)

Looks like he not only had shingles, he had the shakes too. Lol


HarleyT said:


> View attachment 487398
> A Dumbrowski sawmill?


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## tla100 (Feb 22, 2016)

Bump......any updates?


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## pieguy (Jan 12, 2020)

livemusic said:


> Husqvarna 346... got the chain sharpened after hitting some barbwire in a tree, lol... put it back on and I can't figure this out but the chain will not move in the guide bar after tightening the front nut. Everything looks fine and dandy... chain seated around rim sprocket well and in the guidebar groove. I can tighten the back nut with some torque and I can tighten the front nut by hand and the chain still spins like I want it, but if I torque the front nut with the scrench, the chain won't move. As I always say... I know enough to be dangerous, lol... but I cannot figure this out.
> 
> It has a Husky Techlite bar. One thing I don't like, the slotted screw that you turn to adjust chain tension... it is all the way to the left from the getgo. I guess it doesn't matter long as the chain snugs correctly. What could be wrong?



Old thread, I know, but for anyone looking this up.....
I had the same problem. Had to follow advice to reset the brake, but STILL had a problem . Found that the metal band in the clutch cover that contracts around the clutch was slightly out of place. Pushed it back in place and voila, chain now moves after reassembly


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## mybabybook (Mar 16, 2020)

Hi all, 
have the same problem, but with an old Stihl 08s. I bought it a while ago, but has not have much use. everytime I take the chain of and put it back, it moves freely before I tighten the two nuts on the cover. If I tighten them fingertight and then apply a bit of more torque with the wrench, it is still a bit OK. but if tighten all the way, the chain stops moving. Also, in that state I am unable to screw in or out the tension nut. Could it be some of the reasons mentioned previously? What should be the chain width for that model? As I can only think of the chain being too wide? But if that is the case, would the problem with the tension nut also appear?


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## Philbert (Mar 16, 2020)

mybabybook said:


> Could it be some of the reasons mentioned previously?


Worth checking those out while you are quarantined for the next few weeks. 

Any chance that it is a thinner bar, or that one of the inside plates or spacers is missing?

Philbert


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## mybabybook (Mar 16, 2020)

NOt really sure, as this is how I got the saw. BTW there are no spacers between body and cover, or at least none that fit on the bolts for the cover.


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## Philbert (Mar 16, 2020)

mybabybook said:


> BTW there are no spacers between body and cover, or at least none that fit on the bolts for the cover.


You need to find an IPL (illustrated parts list / exploded parts view) for that saw, and see if you are missing any.

Philbert


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## Old2stroke (Mar 16, 2020)

mybabybook said:


> Also, in that state I am unable to screw in or out the tension nut.


You cannot adjust the tension when the bar nuts are tight. That's a good way to destroy the tensioning device.


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## mybabybook (Mar 16, 2020)

Thanks for that. Did not know it. Wont be trying to tension with bar nuts tight then. As for the exploded view- I found it and it looks like there are no spacers there. How can I check if the bar and chain are compatible in terms of width?

PS how tight should the nuts be? I mean do I have to tighten them until they cannot be tighten any further?


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## Philbert (Mar 16, 2020)

mybabybook said:


> As for the exploded view- I found it and it looks like there are no spacers there.


Nothing like #31 or #32 (*IPL from different saw*)?





mybabybook said:


> How can I check if the bar and chain are compatible in terms of width?


You can try posting photos, especially close ups of any information stamped into the tail of the bar, and of the chain.

Philbert


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## mybabybook (Mar 16, 2020)

#31 plate is there for sure. #32, i am not sure(or it is for none chain brake and chain brake models?mine is none chain brake). I can take some pics but will be in a few days.


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## Philbert (Mar 16, 2020)

mybabybook said:


> #31 plate is there for sure. #32, i am not sure(or it is for none chain brake and chain brake models?mine is none chain brake). I can take some pics but will be in a few days.


Again, that IPL was for a different saw (it would have had either #31 _OR_ #32, depending on the model, not both).

Philbert


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## mybabybook (Mar 16, 2020)

I see. Yes, #31 is there. I will take pictures soon for you to see.


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## Huskybill (Mar 16, 2020)

You guys are awesome for trying to help the op out. Great forum.

I had a gut feeling he bend a link in the chain when it hit steel.


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## mybabybook (Mar 17, 2020)

Chain is brand new, not had even half an hour of cutting. Almost sure, it did not hit steel, but let me take some pictures by end of week and you can tell better.


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## Old2stroke (Mar 17, 2020)

A good way to see what is going on is to mount the bar and chain without the side cover on. Just use a couple of large nuts or some washers to make up for the thickness of the side cover, tighten the bar nuts finger tight and pull the bar forward to get the chain tension right then tighten the bar nuts to hold it in place. You can now spool the chain around the bar and see if it is rubbing on anything, if not then the problem should be with the side cover and it probably needs a guide plate to space it out farther. Do NOT overtighten bar nuts, if you strip the studs they are not fun to replace. Don't use a wrench with a longer handle then 6"


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## mybabybook (Mar 17, 2020)

Thanks for that, will do as suggested and report back.


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## mybabybook (Mar 30, 2020)

Hi all,
been quite a while, but did not have much time. Done as suggested, but only had four washers, so mounted them on one bolt only, but did the job. The chain was moving along the bar with a gentle pull. So, must be the cover then that is pinching it. I am wondering if I add 2 washers that are less then 1mm thick, lets say 0,5mm thick, would that be OK, or it is not recommended.
Here some pictures. If you need more, I can do some in a few days. Just let me know what you need pictures of.


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## Old2stroke (Mar 30, 2020)

Can't tell from the photo but is your chain so short that the tail end of the bar is rubbing against the clutch drum? You can't just add a washer between the bar and the cover plate, you need a proper guide plate that will cover the bar oiler holes or it will just puke oil everywhere except on the chain. Guide plates are easy to make and you probably don't need a very thick one.


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## Fatherwheels (Mar 30, 2020)

The teeth next you thumb in the image above looks bent out over the side of the bar,
or is it camera angle.


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## Fatherwheels (Mar 30, 2020)

Is that a pin sticking out of the side of the drive sprocket, should it be there.
And that bar is too close to the clutch drum for comfort.
When I enlarge the third image up, I see the bar was heatened, are you sure
its straight, are you sure it’s not delaminated and the rails push and clamp
the chain when tight.
Was there a thin washer behind the clutch drum, usually there is, is it missing.


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## PV Hiker (Mar 30, 2020)

I see you are from Bulgaria, welcome. 

Show us a picture of the inside cover. 

Try putting on the bar and cover without the chain. Flip saw over and with the chain brake off, finger or tool see if the sprocket spins freely.

What has changed since it was working properly? What and how your were using it and what happened? 

Most of the time it is the last thing you did that caused the change in condition.


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## mybabybook (Mar 31, 2020)

Hi,
need to check all suggestion as soon as possible, as dont have much time, but will try to do by end of week. The bar is not rubbing against the sprocket, at least it wasnt, but I recently changed the sprocket as the old one worn out. there werent any signs of the bar rubbing on it. How can a new plate be made?
#2 *Whinbush, *The pin sticking drives the oil pump. It is there. Also, need to check the pins, but I guess it is from camera angle. Also, how can I check if bar is straight? Butting it on a glass or something?
#3 *PV Hiker, *I bought of ebay end of last year, but haven't used it. Only once for no more than 15 mins. According to seller, it has been serviced recently and new chain fitted. that is all I know about it before it came to me. As stated above, I will trying taking some more pictures by end of the week. BTW that is the older model, without a chain brake. Also, I came to me with the bar off. So when I mounted it first time, that problem appeared. If someone has the same model, I will do appreciate a picture of the cover, just to compare if all there on mine.


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## Fatherwheels (Mar 31, 2020)

That’s a Stihl bar, on what you say is a Husqvarna saw.
I never seen any cream or white paint on aHusqvarna.
I wasn’t aware a Stihl bar would work, without modification.

Check chain well to make sure no teeth are bent out of line,
and check all the drive links that slide through the bar to ensure they
are not stressed or bent, if they are they will jam up in the bar.
I never seen a saw with an oil pump out in the side casing.
Will your saw run with the chain cover on it, no bar no chain
and chain oil pumping out.

You said you added a new clutch drum, was there a washer maybe stuck
on the inside of the old one, some saws have a washer there to keep
things lined up and reduce friction from rubbing.

Is there a sprocket in the nose of your bar, is it sticking, is it the right sprocket,
a .325 for a .325 chain, or a 3/8 for a 3/8 chain.


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## Fatherwheels (Mar 31, 2020)

I see no nice shiny marks on your saw casing, like there would be if a chain rubbed,
so am guessing if your chain has no bent or twisted drive links, that your nose
sprocket and bar are probably a miss match for your chain and drive sprocket.

This can cause jamming, but then you say this catching only happens when
you tighten the bar nuts.

Turn your saw by hand and see if the crank is bent, this will make it impossible to keep a tight chain,
as in one position the chain will be loose, then as the crank rotates it will be tight, will feel
like a catching chain if you turn the chain by hand.


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## mybabybook (Mar 31, 2020)

Whinbush said:


> That’s a Stihl bar, on what you say is a Husqvarna saw.
> I never seen any cream or white paint on aHusqvarna.
> I wasn’t aware a Stihl bar would work, without modification.
> 
> ...


Yes, this model has the oil pump housed in the cover. I did not try running with cover on and without chain and bar, but it should run without problems I guess. Yes, there is a very thin washer between clutch and drum and it is there, i did not touch this. It was there with the old sprocket as well, and I still had same issue. So i would say it is not that. Chain and drum are .404
No, there are no shiny marks, all covered with oil and debris from log cut. The bar is hard nose, no sprocket on it. I showed it to a dealer when I bought the new drum and he said all three seems to be the right ones, meaning bar, chain and sprocket are compatible.
Do I have to remove the drum to check for the crank and whether it is bent or not?


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## Fatherwheels (Mar 31, 2020)

mybabybook said:


> Yes, this model has the oil pump housed in the cover. I did not try running with cover on and without chain and bar, but it should run without problems I guess. Yes, there is a very thin washer between clutch and drum and it is there, i did not touch this. It was there with the old sprocket as well, and I still had same issue. So i would say it is not that. Chain and drum are .404
> No, there are no shiny marks, all covered with oil and debris from log cut. The bar is hard nose, no sprocket on it. I showed it to a dealer when I bought the new drum and he said all three seems to be the right ones, meaning bar, chain and sprocket are compatible.
> Do I have to remove the drum to check for the crank and whether it is bent or not?


No, put the bar and chain on with the washers and nut, tension it right,
make sure bar doesn’t move,
then turn the chain by hand and see if you find loose spots or spots where it gets tight,
it should spin pretty much the same as it rotates.
.404 is large, what cc is the saw, is it a Husqvarna or Stihl.
I don’t use a .404 , but would the drive links be larger and rubbing between the
rails, or on the bottom of the track they run in, they should not run on the bottom
of the track, only on the top of the rails.

You mention oil and debris from cutting, you must have cleaned it very well as
I don’t see a drop of oil, are you sure the saw is oiling.


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## buzz sawyer (Mar 31, 2020)

Whinbush said:


> That’s a Stihl bar, on what you say is a Husqvarna saw.
> I never seen any cream or white paint on aHusqvarna.
> I wasn’t aware a Stihl bar would work, without modification.
> 
> ...


For everyone's information - At post #150, we went from a Husky to a Stihl 08s from another member with same / similar problem.


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## Philbert (Mar 31, 2020)

(Metamorphosis)

Philbert


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## mybabybook (Mar 31, 2020)

Whinbush said:


> No, put the bar and chain on with the washers and nut, tension it right,
> make sure bar doesn’t move,
> then turn the chain by hand and see if you find loose spots or spots where it gets tight,
> it should spin pretty much the same as it rotates.
> ...


IT is Stihl 08s. Originally comes with .404. Yes, it does oil properly, that was the first thing I tested when bought it. Links run on top of the bar, i can also do a close up photo of that as well. I will check again and report back.


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## Fatherwheels (Mar 31, 2020)

mybabybook said:


> IT is Stihl 08s. Originally comes with .404. Yes, it does oil properly, that was the first thing I tested when bought it. Links run on top of the bar, i can also do a close up photo of that as well. I will check again and report back.


Check the back end of the bar next the drive gear, make sure it’s not bent or closed in,
as the chain will hit against it as it comes off the drive and enters into the rails of the bar.


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## Fatherwheels (Mar 31, 2020)

Philbert said:


> (Metamorphosis)
> 
> Philbert


Am that tired I had to think what that meant, woke myself up laughing when it clicked.


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## Old2stroke (Mar 31, 2020)

Everyone insists on coming up with weird faults and ignore the fact that the chain spools along the bar freely without the side cover but gets jammed up when the nuts are tightened with the side cover on. Need to do a CAREFUL check of what's going on with the side cover. Can you post pics of the side cover? I don't think I have seen one with oil pump in the side cover.


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## PV Hiker (Mar 31, 2020)

I'm waiting for the image... as I posted a request. See below.
.


PV Hiker said:


> I see you are from Bulgaria, welcome.
> 
> Show us a picture of the inside cover.
> 
> ...


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## SCHallenger (Mar 31, 2020)

FWIW, I had an older Sachs-Dolmar top handle back in the 80s that had the oil pump in the clutch cover; not that this is of any value in solving the problem at hand.


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## buzz sawyer (Mar 31, 2020)

Any chance the chain is dragging on the new clutch drum? Thought I saw a couple shiny spots on it.


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## mybabybook (Apr 1, 2020)

As promised, I will take some more pictures by end of week, as dont have much time. 
*buzz sawyer, *maybe it is reflection from camera flash as the new drum has just been mounted but chain saw has not used with it still. Also, the problem was there with the old drum as well.


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## Old2stroke (Apr 1, 2020)

Another thing to try would be to mount the side cover with a thin washer on each of the bar studs between the bar and the side cover. If the chain spools freely when you tighten the nuts, you will know that the spacing of the side cover is the issue.


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## cus_deluxe (Apr 1, 2020)

livemusic said:


> It has a Husky Techlite bar.


thats ur problem i bet. had the same thing on a 272. the bar pad was wider than the tail of the bar and the laminated construction couldnt stand squeezing


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## cus_deluxe (Apr 1, 2020)

haha man, i got had by a 4 year old thread lol


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## mybabybook (Apr 4, 2020)

Hi,
here the images as promised. Actually, now i saw the shiny spot on the plate, where most probably chain has rubbed. So, I guess it is the plate that causing teh problem. Also, bar is not touching the sprocket and without bar and chain, but side cover on, and nuts tightened, the sprocket spins OK. Last picture is spacing between the plates without the bar mounted. The fourth is the shiny mark.


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## Old2stroke (Apr 4, 2020)

As I suggested, try mounting the side cover with a couple of thin washers on the bar studs between the bar and the side cover and tighten the nuts to see if spacing of the side cover is the issue. If it is, just copy the flat part of the side cover guide plate onto sheet metal or even the flat side of a plastic container and make a proper spacer. Might have to stack a couple up, depending on the material you have.


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## mybabybook (Apr 5, 2020)

Hi,
need to find some thin washers as the only ones I have are about 1-1,5mm thick. Might sound stupid, but once I copy the flat part of the plate and get it cut from a thin metal sheet, how do I attach that to existing plate or it will be held by the two nuts and that will be reliable enough? As the original plate is being held with additional rivets as seen on picture.


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## Old2stroke (Apr 5, 2020)

Spacer doesn't have to be attached to anything, the two holes for the bar studs will keep it in position between the bar and the side cover. Make sure to cut a couple of holes for the rivet heads so the spacer will lay flat against the guide plate on the side cover.


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