# Stihl ms 250 or Echo cs 440 ?



## Cory2007 (Dec 31, 2007)

Which is the better chainsaw Stihl ms 250 or Echo cs 440 ?


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## bcorradi (Dec 31, 2007)

not familiar with the cs 440...but i've dealt with a lot of 025/ms250's and they are an extremely durable saw.


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## Jacob J. (Dec 31, 2007)

You're going to find that the Echo is a bit heavier than the Stihl and has less power.


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## OLY-JIM (Dec 31, 2007)

*MS 250 vs. CS-440*

Both are very decent little saws in their intended role...not the best...but decent and reliable. I know a couple of guys that have the CS-440 and they swear by them...but, it should be pointed out that they need no more in a saw. Of the two, I'd go with the MS 250; it's a good around the house firewood / light storm clean-up saw. The Stihl is rated at 3HP and weighs 10.1lbs. The Echo is rated at 2.95HP on Australian sites and weighs 10.5lbs. Here in the States, no one really knows the power output of Echo saws as Echo does not publish such information. As you're no doubt aware, both saws are 45cc. IMO, both of these saws are ideally suited when running a 16" B&C combination, however, they are both commonly sold with an 18" B&C set-up. If you need a little more bar on your saw; then you may want to consider a little more saw? Since these saws seem to be so close in comparison; dealer support should play a key consideration for you. Flip a coin...then go down and buy the STIHL.  

At this point, you should brace yourself for the myriad of different saw recommendations that you're about to be inundated with. Good luck in your choice. 


Best Regards,
OLY-JIM


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## OLY-JIM (Dec 31, 2007)

*Popular Mechanics Shoot-Out*

Hey Cory...here's a link to a Popular Mechanics review of seven different saws in this class. Both the MS 250 and CS-440 are apart of the review. All of the saws in the review are in the 45cc saw class (+/-) and appear to be direct manufacturer competitors. The review is not overly in-depth and it's a little dated, however, it should provide a good base start from with adjoining pics. The review concludes with final rankings. I hope this helps some?

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/gardening/1273816.html?page=1


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## mountainlake (Dec 31, 2007)

If you had both models apart you'ld buy the Echo way more quality, you can get them off Ebay for a little over $200 new. You'll like the grunt the 440 has, nice wide powerband. Steve


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## Brian S (Dec 31, 2007)

I chose the Echo based on price and dealer support. I have cut one cord of oak and here are my observations.

Price: $205.00 + shipping off ebay NIB

Pros: Quality very good, aluminum crankcase, bolt on cylinder, excellent air filtration, easy staring, great adjustable oiler, good fuel economy, reasonable power -may be better when it is fully broken in, quiet. Cuts pretty fast with Oregon 20LP chisel chain. Anti vibe is good.

Cons: Front chain adjust is a PITA, can be upgraded to side chain adjust I think for $7. Top cover requires tools to remove. Mine came from the factory running too lean and needed to have the limiter caps removed to retune and that was a PITA, once tuned it runs very well. Dealer support may be lacking, I have what I thought was a great local dealer but they are clueless about the chainsaws and did not want to sell non anti-kickback chain to an "amatuer", also refused to sell or order new limiter caps to replace the ones I damaged, claimed that the EPA wouldn't let them sell limiter caps. Your dealer might be better. The local Stihl dealer was very accomodating and ordered new ones for me from Walbro. Chain/clutch cover is plastic and somewhat flimsy, chainbrake lever is a single attach point and not terribly heavy duty. Cannot easily mod muffler for more power and I can't find a non cat muffler for it.

I know nothing of the Stihl 250 other than it was more expensive. I would reccomend the CS-440 for homeowner and firewood scrounger use. I probably also would say the CS-440 would be a good saw for the residential landscaper who needs a saw infrequently to remove storm damaged trees and prune and shape customers trees. I would not own this saw with the intent of using it on a daily basis to put food on MY table. It is a very good dollar value saw and a big step up in quality and durability from a Poulan. At full retail prices it fairly comparable to equivilant models from Stihl and Husky, however these can be gotten on the cheap from Ebay or Craigslist and for $200 it is a hell of a saw. I would buy it again.


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## Knotdodger (Dec 31, 2007)

STIHL


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## chainsaw kid (Dec 31, 2007)

*025*

I have an 025 w/ the 18" bar and it handles it well. I can tell you I've used that saw for much more than it was meant to be used for and it's as strong now as the day I bought it back in 2001. Great bang for your buck...Stihl 025/ms250


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## RED-85-Z51 (Dec 31, 2007)

The only real drawback on the Echo is you need a phillips head screwdriver to remove the cylinder cover, but honestly you should have to remove it too often anyways, and it only takes a second to pop off.

The air filtration is leaps and bounds better, the front chain tensioner is not as nice as a fancy tool less feature, but it wont break or fail on you in the woods, also it's a breeze to remove the side cover, bar and chain.

The saw is one of the easiest to start out there, like all Echos are. Pull the choke out, , flip the convienient switch up, and give the rope a tug, and off you go.

The Chain brakes are single mount, but not at all flimsy or easy to break off. If you kickback hard enough to break that handle, you have other problems, trust me.

The idle is smooth, and the quality is astounding when you see the inner workings of one of these saws. 

Ive got an 025, and I cant say terrible things about it, except it it hard to pull the rope, I put on an elast-start handle, and it did help some, but it still pulls really really hard to me.

Go to an Echo DEALER if you decide to go that route, make sure it is setup and tested.


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## Cory2007 (Dec 31, 2007)

I would normally run out and buy the Stihl, but I grew up with my dad's Echo. It's a 500EVL with a 16 inch bar. He bought it around 1984 and the thing is still going strong. I plan on using my saw for all around stuff and eventually I'll be heating with wood. Any other comments ? Thanks for the info. guys.

Cory


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## SAWITALL (Dec 31, 2007)

The 250 is lighter and stronger than the Echo. I have cut with both and would take the 250 over the Echo anyday.


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## chainsaw kid (Dec 31, 2007)

RED-85-Z51 said:


> Ive got an 025, and I cant say terrible things about it, except it it hard to pull the rope, I put on an elast-start handle, and it did help some, but it still pulls really really hard to me.
> 
> Go to an Echo DEALER if you decide to go that route, make sure it is setup and tested.



RED.... 

I gues you got a point there though lol... I don't know how much the 025's are now but when I bought mine in 2001 it was slightly under $200.00
For the money I spent, I am very pleased.

I'm sure the echos a good saw too and more user friendly in some ways.


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## 2000ssm6 (Dec 31, 2007)

I have used a 025 before, great saw and good power for it's weight. I would say go with the 250........


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## mountainlake (Dec 31, 2007)

That 440 will wake up good after 8 or 9 tanks. Keep the rakers low enough this saw has the grunt to pull low rakers. I wouldn't be one bit scared of racing a 250 Stihl. My CS510 smokes MS290 Stihls. Having to pull the caps and adjust is just about normal nowdays, it's good that you reconize that you needed too rather than burning it up. Try not to use ethonal gas and use stabil for storing. You'll like the side adjuster just don't have the bar nuts too tight when adjusting. Steve


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## Brian S (Dec 31, 2007)

RED-85-Z51 said:


> The only real drawback on the Echo is you need a phillips head screwdriver to remove the cylinder cover, but honestly you should have to remove it too often anyways, and it only takes a second to pop off.




Mine has screws that have complete flats cut as well as phillips, the included screench can pop off the cover no sweat. But they should have made it quick detach for the sake of convienence.


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## Brian S (Dec 31, 2007)

mountainlake said:


> Having to pull the caps and adjust is just about normal nowdays, it's good that you reconize that you needed too rather than burning it up. Try not to use ethonal gas and use stabil for storing. You'll like the side adjuster just don't have the bar nuts too tight when adjusting.



Steve your posts on AS helped me identify the need to do this before I even ordered the saw, so thanks! I do have experience tuning 2 strokes, but without the warning from your posts I really doubt I would have realized it was so lean before some premature wear had already occured. At first the high side was so lean it needed about another 1/2 turn out on the high side from where the cap was set, later after 4 tanks the low side also needed to be fattened up but not as bad as the high side needed. I'm going to upgrade to side chain adjust asap. Thanks again Steve!

The only gas I can get here is 10% methanol but I do use Echo power blend oil 40:1 and I use my 1 gallon can so fast I don't need any stabilizers.


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## SawTroll (Dec 31, 2007)

Cory2007 said:


> Which is the better chainsaw Stihl ms 250 or Echo cs 440 ?




Depends on if you prefers Pest or Colera - but I'd take the Stihl if that is the only options......:greenchainsaw:


The Husky 350 is a much better option, if you can still get them..........


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## Poley4 (Dec 31, 2007)

SawTroll said:


> Depends on if you prefers Pest or Colera - but I'd take the Stihl if that is the only options......:greenchainsaw:



We could throw a Shindaiwa 488 in the mix, but you wouldn't like that either. Happy New Year Troll!


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## turbo (Dec 31, 2007)

I dont think you can beat a STIHL #4# but you will probably pay more.


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## mountainlake (Dec 31, 2007)

Brian S said:


> Steve your posts on AS helped me identify the need to do this before I even ordered the saw, so thanks! I do have experience tuning 2 strokes, but without the warning from your posts I really doubt I would have realized it was so lean before some premature wear had already occured. At first the high side was so lean it needed about another 1/2 turn out on the high side from where the cap was set, later after 4 tanks the low side also needed to be fattened up but not as bad as the high side needed. I'm going to upgrade to side chain adjust asap. Thanks again Steve!
> 
> The only gas I can get here is 10% methanol but I do use Echo power blend oil 40:1 and I use my 1 gallon can so fast I don't need any stabilizers.



Brian When I got my 440 I had to pull the caps and adjust, then talked my BIL into getting one (He had a almost brand new Poulan that wouldn't run no matter what you did} and his ran fine out of the box with my gas with no ethonal. Then a week later I was listening to hom saw and it sounded lean, sure enough, pulled the plug and it was white, so pulled the caps and it runs fine after adjusting. Turn out he put gas with ethonal in it. Thats not to say they won't run with ethonal, just have to be adjusted for it. Steve


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## SawTroll (Dec 31, 2007)

Poley4 said:


> We could throw a Shindaiwa 488 in the mix, but you wouldn't like that either. Happy New Year Troll!



Right, or maybe not - Happy New Year, anyway!!


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## Trigger-Time (Dec 31, 2007)

If you ever want to sell or trade up, IMO Stihl will hold it's
value better.


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## mountainlake (Dec 31, 2007)

Poley4 said:


> We could throw a Shindaiwa 488 in the mix, but you wouldn't like that either. Happy New Year Troll!



I'll have to get a 488 and see how they really cut, most likely better than the bashers will admit. Happy New Year, you to Troll. Tom and Jerry time.. Steve


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## RED-85-Z51 (Dec 31, 2007)

Brian S said:


> Steve your posts on AS helped me identify the need to do this before I even ordered the saw, so thanks! I do have experience tuning 2 strokes, but without the warning from your posts I really doubt I would have realized it was so lean before some premature wear had already occured. At first the high side was so lean it needed about another 1/2 turn out on the high side from where the cap was set, later after 4 tanks the low side also needed to be fattened up but not as bad as the high side needed. I'm going to upgrade to side chain adjust asap. Thanks again Steve!
> 
> The only gas I can get here is 10% methanol but I do use Echo power blend oil 40:1 and I use my 1 gallon can so fast I don't need any stabilizers.



Careful with that Ethanol mixed stuff...As I recall Echo sent out a Bulletin to Dealers warning against problems with E20 and E85.

The only problem Ive seen with the side adjust feature, is folks dont seem to want to loosen the bar nuts enough. They need to be pretty loose, loose enough to wobble the bar easily. There is a set of 90 * gears in the cover, and while they are tough, and should last the life of the saw, if you strip them, they will need to be replaced. But it is a nice feature, and replacing the gears is cheap and only takes a fe minutes, tops.


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## AndyR (Jan 1, 2008)

> Mine came from the factory running too lean and needed to have the limiter caps removed to retune and that was a PITA, once tuned it runs very well.



I looked around, read some reviews and was overall impressed with what I heard about these saws. I also bought a new cs 440 on ebay. This was my first saw and I wanted it primarily for cleaning up brush and removing big shrubs (4-6"yews) around the house. I find the 18 inch bar a little long for what I've been doing with it-but it's nice to have the extra length when you want it.

I'm glad I read this thread as I've been having trouble with mine too. I adjusted the carb per the manual and it helped some-the high idle was set way off. It's been a little better, it idles ok but when I pull the throttle it wants to die, and sometimes it's a bear to get started. I really haven't run it very much (less than a full tank) so I doubt there's any damage. Could someone explain the process of removing these caps and setting the carb right. I like the saw, the controls are user friendly and it runs much smoother than my old stihl 036, which is all I can compare it to, and I don't want to trash it (especially since it was an ebay buy-no warranty).

Kind-of pisses me off that something could leave the factory in a condition that would cause it to fail in such short order. Kind of makes you wonder about a company's integrity... I guess thats how things go these days,buy it, use it, and throw it away .

I've read these threads but if anyone has anymore specifics that'd be really helpful.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=58267&highlight=cs-440
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=54971&highlight=cs-440

Thanks,
Andy


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## mountainlake (Jan 1, 2008)

I think you can buy cap removers from Stihl. I've been able to get them off by threading a small screw into the hole in the center and then turning counterclockwise being carefull not to unthread the screw untill the tab lines up with the slot and then pulling. Just grind the tabs off when you get them out. Your saw sound like the low adjuster needs to be turned out a little untill you can crack the throttle with no hesitation. On the high speed adjust so it burbles a little when held wide open. Also look at the plug, it should be tan or brown, white is to lean, black is to rich although yours might not have much color yet with not much time on it. All of this shouldn't take too much time and we wouldn't have to be doing it if not for the EPA. They have to adjust them lean to get out of the factory door. I suppose if we bought from a dealer the dealer would have them adjust right. Steve


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## Brian S (Jan 1, 2008)

Andy, to tune the saw you will have to get the limiter caps out. What you need to do is look down into the well where the carb adjuster caps are and you will see the red plastic caps. These caps need to come out. There is a little groove in the carb body that will only let the cap come out when the tab on the cap is aligned with the groove. You will need to use a screw or a teeny tiny pick to first either thread the screw into the hole in the end of the cap or use the pick and stick the tip into the hole. Once you have a good grip on the cap you will turn it CCW until the tab and groove are aligned and then pull straight up and out. From there, you need to cut the little tabs off the cap and then re-install them. Tuning is best accomplished by reading the instructions posted here on this site or others and make sure you are a little rich on the high side rather than lean. 


Here are some CS-440 tips.
Remove the engine cover, this will help you get more light into the well where the caps are. Also you can pull off the recoil start and move the fan shroud around to get more working room.

I tried to use a screw to get the caps (didn't work) out but if you have them a broken screw extractor might work better. I used a Matco LH extractor and they came out fairly easy after that.

The reason it is idling too high and has low performance off idle is because it is too lean on the low side, it probably won't take much to tweak the low screw and get a proper idle and power back, mine needed maybe 1/4 turn more than the limiter cap would allow.

I'm sure that these saws are tuned for proper performance with gas they use at the factory which is probably 100% gasoline rather than the MBTE or Ethanol loaded crap we get from our local pumps, and also the local elevation affects how the saw runs so it is probably set up OK at the factory but not right for the "real world".

I would bet that if us Cheap-A$$e$ would buy our saws from a good local dealer they would unpack, assemble, test, and tune the saw right before delivery.


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## SawTroll (Jan 1, 2008)

mountainlake said:


> I'll have to get a 488 and see how they really cut, most likely better than the bashers will admit. Happy New Year, you to Troll. Tom and Jerry time.. Steve




The 488 should beat the 250 and 440, with some margin.

It isn't a comparable saw, as far as I know.......


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## Brian S (Jan 1, 2008)

Sorry Steve, I think we were composing at the same time!


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## SawTroll (Jan 1, 2008)

AndyR said:


> .... It's been a little better, it idles ok but when I pull the throttle it wants to die, and sometimes it's a bear to get started. I really haven't run it very much (less than a full tank) so I doubt there's any damage. ....




Sounds like a lean low end to me, as well. :greenchainsaw:


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## AndyR (Jan 1, 2008)

> I would bet that if us Cheap-A$$e$ would buy our saws from a good local dealer they would unpack, assemble, test, and tune the saw right before delivery.



Very good point, and thanks for the tips.
Now if it would warm up enough for me to get out to the shop to work on my saw! I guess I need a wood stove out there. Talk about a positive feedback loop!

Andy


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## mountainlake (Jan 1, 2008)

Brian That's a good tip on a screw extractor, would be turning counterclockwise right away.. Troll I'd be comparing the 488 to my CS510, both around 50cc. Andy It's just to hard to pass up a 440 for $200, I'll work 15 minutes for a $100 anytime. Steve


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## Brian S (Jan 1, 2008)

AndyR said:


> I'm glad I read this thread as I've been having trouble with mine too. I adjusted the carb per the manual and it helped some-the high idle was set way off. It's been a little better, it idles ok but when I pull the throttle it wants to die, and sometimes it's a bear to get started. I really haven't run it very much (less than a full tank) so I doubt there's any damage. Could someone explain the process of removing these caps and setting the carb right. I like the saw, the controls are user friendly and it runs much smoother than my old stihl 036, which is all I can compare it to, and I don't want to trash it (especially since it was an ebay buy-no warranty).



Go to Echo's website, click on warranty registration. Fill out the form and for price paid just put "gift". The serial number is on the metal plate on the crankcase under the clutch drum. They validated my warranty online instantly.


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## RED-85-Z51 (Jan 1, 2008)

At work, The Echo saws are unpacked, assembled, and run at least one heat cycle before we allow them out the door.

We dont touch the adjusters on any of them. Echo tunes all saws at the factory for ideal engine performance and longevity. All saws except the CS-670 and CS-8000. We have to tach those out, as they are shipped ONLY to dealers, and are shipped un-tuned.

Keep in mind it takes a few tanks of gas for these engines to break in fully, some take longer than others, and with any 2 stroke, it will tend to run a little sluggish when new.

My CS-520 is tuned lean, it keeps the plug light light tan, almost white even. But after tank after tank, after tank, it still blows unGodly compression, shows no wear, and just keeps getting stronger. Cranks on 1 pull, burbles and dies, choke off, and running fine on the 2nd pull. I just went out and pulled it out and cut a few peices of wood down to a better size for the fireplace, and it did just as I said above, in 40* temps.

The Echo's that come in for WInterizing, and regular service are generally like mine, a few come in with customers complaining of stalling in the cut, and cutting slow. I find the plug is dark tan, I also find the limiters are gone. I tach it out, and it's running way rich. I tune it back lean, and presto, like a new saw again.

Trust that Echo knows what it is doing, leave the limiters alone. If you do mods, and it burns up, dont count on getting a Free Warranty Short block from a dealer.

If you dont think it is running right, take it to a dealer, let them handle it.


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## mountainlake (Jan 1, 2008)

REd When you get a new saw and you crack the throttle and it dies it needs adjusting. Only 1 out of 4 that I got new ran right. All the rest were lean and most likely would have burnt up if you could get them off of idle. Maybe the real new ones are better. Steve


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## Cory2007 (Jan 1, 2008)

Red, thanks for the post, I was starting to lean toward the Stihl with all this Echo tuning stuff. As soon as Home Depot gets the Echo 440 in I'm going to check it out and see how it feels. It seems the Echo is more basic on the choke and power switch. I kind of like that. The Stihl all in one lever is really convenient, but seems it might be more prone to break. If I buy the Stihl I'm going to get the base 250; I'm not sure of the quick chain adjuster on the other 250. Is the anti-vibration on the Stihl 250 and Echo 440 about the same ? 

Cory


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## OLY-JIM (Jan 1, 2008)

Cory2007 said:


> Red, thanks for the post, I was starting to lean toward the Stihl with all this Echo tuning stuff. As soon as Home Depot gets the Echo 440 in I'm going to check it out and see how it feels. It seems the Echo is more basic on the choke and power switch. I kind of like that. The Stihl all in one lever is really convenient, but seems it might be more prone to break. If I buy the Stihl I'm going to get the base 250; I'm not sure of the quick chain adjuster on the other 250. Is the anti-vibration on the Stihl 250 and Echo 440 about the same ?
> 
> Cory



The STIHL lever is certainly not prone to breaking and I would indeed opt for the base MS 250 if you ever decide to go with this saw. I've never personally ran a 440, but I do own Echos' and the AV on these saws seems to be just fine. I have a 250 as well and the AV seems fine to me. There are certainly some folks that think the 250's AV system is lacking; I consider mine to run smooth. I guess it depends on your vibe sensitivity?

Do you have a local Echo dealer near you? If you do, you may want to purchase the saw from him since that is where you'll obtain service for the saw if you should ever need it. The price at the Echo dealer vs. Home Depot should be exactly the same. Reportedly, that's the deal that Echo has with HD on pricing.


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## RED-85-Z51 (Jan 1, 2008)

Dealer price and HD price for a Echo product should be the exact same. Echo sets both prices, and as far as Ive seen, they are always identical.

If at all possible, buy from a Dealer, the saw will be at the very least assembled, and SHOULD be fueled up, oil added, and run at least once, although I wont guarentee it will be.

Ive assembled Shred n vacs, blowers, trimmers, PE-200's, saws, you name it. When initially run from NEW, they act like they are a little lean, but after running a few minutes, they only get better. According to the customers after the first few good hard runs they really wake up.

Im not saying there arent excpetions, som carbs Im sure slip out with an issue...if you buy from a dealer they will likely catch it, and fix/replace the problem. If you bought from a box store, they will replace it, and everyone is happy.


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## Brian S (Jan 1, 2008)

RED-85-Z51 said:


> At work, The Echo saws are unpacked, assembled, and run at least one heat cycle before we allow them out the door.
> 
> We dont touch the adjusters on any of them. Echo tunes all saws at the factory for ideal engine performance and longevity.



I'm going to have to argue this point only to say that it comes tuned properly with THEIR gas and oil mix, it wasn't tuned for mine. YMMV.


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## spencer13cat (Jan 4, 2008)

I love my 250. A big factor for me buying Stihls is there are two large dealers very close to me. I liked some features on Husky's and other saws but I don't want to chase parts. In this part of the world Stihl dealers are common. I have owned or used most of the common brands. The dealer relationship turns out to be as important as anything assuming the saws are similar in specs.


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## Just Mow (Jan 5, 2008)

The 250 is so much more saw than the Echo.


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## mountainlake (Jan 5, 2008)

Just Mow said:


> The 250 is so much more saw than the Echo.



It's the first time you've been right Mow. The 250 is so much more PLASTIC . Steve


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## Just Mow (Jan 5, 2008)

mountainlake said:


> It's the first time you've been right Mow. The 250 is so much more PLASTIC . Steve



It's Stihl a better saw. And if you have ever dropped one you would know that it is pretty strong material. The Echo just has no power. Who wants a powerless saw.


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## SawTroll (Jan 5, 2008)

mountainlake said:


> It's the first time you've been right Mow. The 250 is so much more PLASTIC . Steve




I don't like the _soft _plastic of the 250 at all, but when the option is a Echo, oh well......


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## chainsaw kid (Jan 5, 2008)

*The plastic case*

I have to admit, when I bought my 025 I was a bit skeptical of the plastic case (or whatever material it's made of) but I can tell you since then I've realized it is a very durable material. Even in extreme cold, no problems!

But since we're on the subject and for those who may be concerned......
Has anybody had their "plastic" 025/250 case fail? If so, explain the situation in which it happened and I bet it was an abnormal circumstance. There is plenty of people on here so we can let that subject speak for it's self.


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## SawTroll (Jan 5, 2008)

chainsaw kid said:


> I have to admit, when I bought my 025 I was a bit skeptical of the plastic case (or whatever material it's made of) but I can tell you since then I've realized it is a very durable material. Even in extreme cold, no problems!
> 
> But since we're on the subject and for those who may be concerned......
> Has anybody had their "plastic" 025/250 case fail? If so, explain the situation in which it happened and I bet it was an abnormal circumstance. There is plenty of people on here so we can let that subject speak for it's self.




I think is holds up just great, but it _feels_ like POS, if you understand....


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## BloodOnTheIce (Jan 5, 2008)

I see plastic case failure all the time, maybe 3 times a month. Come on a 10 pound saw should be able to hold up to a F150 backing over it, or a full size John Deere tractor driving over it. Actually even in these cases the case holds up but the handle breaks instead.


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## mountainlake (Jan 5, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> I don't like the _soft _plastic of the 250 at all, but when the option is a Echo, oh well......



Hey Troll. I should send you my CS510 to use for a while. Then you would be speaking from experience. I used to think Echo's were junk too untill I actually used one. Steve


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## Cory2007 (Jan 5, 2008)

I'm leaning toward the Echo. I'm going to look at one in person as soon as someone gets one in. Since the ice storm all the Home Depot's and smaller places are sold out of the Echo. I did look at the Stihl 250 and it does seem like it has a lot of plastic on it. I heard the Echo cs440 was being phased out for the new vortex style engine that is now in the smaller models. It supposed to be solid orange like the old Echos. It will be a cs441 or cs450 I was told. The new style Echos are using a 1 ring piston that is a rounded ring (supposed to be less friction, run cooler, etc). The cs440 uses the old style 2 ring piston. I don't like trying new stuff so I'll try to get the cs440 before it dissappears.


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## RED-85-Z51 (Jan 5, 2008)

mountainlake said:


> Hey Troll. I should send you my CS510 to use for a while. Then you would be speaking from experience. I used to think Echo's were junk too untill I actually used one. Steve



Dont bother, it would probably snap his wrists from the unfamiliar torque.

He'd probably like the feeling of an unabusive, easy and fun to use saw and get rid of all his trash saws....


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## OLY-JIM (Jan 5, 2008)

Cory2007 said:


> I'm leaning toward the Echo. I'm going to look at one in person as soon as someone gets one in. Since the ice storm all the Home Depot's and smaller places are sold out of the Echo. I did look at the Stihl 250 and it does seem like it has a lot of plastic on it. I heard the Echo cs440 was being phased out for the new vortex style engine that is now in the smaller models. It supposed to be solid orange like the old Echos. It will be a cs441 or cs450 I was told. The new style Echos are using a 1 ring piston that is a rounded ring (supposed to be less friction, run cooler, etc). The cs440 uses the old style 2 ring piston. I don't like trying new stuff so I'll try to get the cs440 before it dissappears.



The 250 will out run a 440. Neither saw will likely let you down. Of the two saws, I really think that you'll be better off with the 250. Nothing wrong with the 440...the 250 is just a better saw in this class. I am aware of no example where either of these saws has experienced case failure. Now, If you run over a saw with a truck or tractor...that's hardly a failure in the saw...rather, it's a failure in operator head space and timing!  Good luck!


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## chainsaw kid (Jan 5, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> I think is holds up just great, but it _feels_ like POS, if you understand....



Yeah Troll, You're right, no arguement from that angle.



BloodOnTheIce said:


> I see plastic case failure all the time, maybe 3 times a month. Come on a 10 pound saw should be able to hold up to a F150 backing over it, or a full size John Deere tractor driving over it. Actually even in these cases the case holds up but the handle breaks instead.



Yeah, it's a faulty design.....guess the echo is the better bet  
I run mine over with a s-10 and it seems to be fine though......


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## SawTroll (Jan 5, 2008)

OLY-JIM said:


> The 250 will out run a 440. Neither saw will likely let you down. Of the two saws, I really think that you'll be better off with the 250. Nothing wrong with the 440...the 250 is just a better saw in this class. I am aware of no example where either of these saws has experienced case failure. Now, If you run over a saw with a truck or tractor...that's hardly a failure in the saw...rather, it's a failure in operator head space and timing!  Good luck!



Yes, sure it is operator error! :censored:


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## volks-man (Jan 6, 2008)

*saw chain to use?*

i just bought the 440 and am pleased with it thus far except...
if you use the whole bar you will bog it,
that the chain seems to need adjusting a little often, and
the clutch cover feels a little 'mickey mouse' to me.

also what chain would be recommended for cutting-up oaks down long enough to lose their bark (very dry and not rotten)? been cutting these and in the cold too (read, occasional ice on tree). the chain dulls fast. i believe the chain is an oregon 33sl (came with saw). i am not afraid of non-antikickback chains either.... what would you guys use?


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## Brian S (Jan 6, 2008)

volks-man said:


> i just bought the 440 and am pleased with it thus far except...
> if you use the whole bar you will bog it,
> that the chain seems to need adjusting a little often, and
> the clutch cover feels a little 'mickey mouse' to me.
> ...



18" is too much bar for this saw to expect good performance, with the bar buried I would expect that you will need to let the weight of the saw carry you through the cut. If the wood is green you might be able to use the dog a little to bite but not much, better chain will help. That being said I'm leaving mine at 18" because I prefer the extra reach when cutting downed wood and will sacrifice some speed. Make sure you read over this and other posts concerning the factory tuning of the 440. Mountainlake's saws and mine came tuned too lean for local gas...

Try Oregon 20LPfor chain, you need .325 pitch 50 gauge 72 drivers. Others will pitch in thier $.02 on chain but I've cut almost 2 full cords of oak on my 20LP and it is only now just getting to a point where I would think about pulling out a file. 20LP is non-anti kickback chisel chain and cuts real quick. Oregon 20BP is a non-anti kickback semi-chisel which would be good for dirty wood and easier to sharpen, that would be worth a look too. I might get a loop of that just for such circumstances.

I agree the clutch cover is flimsy but acceptable.

Edit to correct terrible spleling and add chain info.


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## Just Mow (Jan 6, 2008)

See what I mean about power. The 250 turns an 18" bar with no problem.


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## RED-85-Z51 (Jan 6, 2008)

volks-man said:


> i just bought the 440 and am pleased with it thus far except...
> if you use the whole bar you will bog it,
> that the chain seems to need adjusting a little often, and
> the clutch cover feels a little 'mickey mouse' to me.
> ...



When you tension the chain, loosen both nuts until you can freely move the bar. Turn the adjuster while holding the bar "up". Until you can pull the chain off the bottom of the bar and it snaps back into contact with the bar rail. Then Tighten both nuts tight, while still holding the bar "up".

The cover has a tang on the back that must slip under a little lip, it's right in the back of the cover, make sure it is engaged if you take the cover off. I see people not do this, and the cover tends to tweak and move around if you pry on it.

18" bar is a good size for this saw, you cant lay on it, you should just let the chain self feed, let it do the work. 

Get a new chain, Oregon 20LP072G for clean wood, and 20BP072G for Dirty wood.

If you only have a tank or 2 through the saw, It should become more powerful as time goes on. You are using Echo PowerBlend @ 50:1 with 93 octane right?


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## Junkwrencher (Jan 6, 2008)

*Stihl vs. Echo*

A little off-topic fellas, but the subject of running over saws with trucks and tractors came up and in the 80's I directed my father over his Homelite Super-EZ with a Dodge full-sized truck(unloaded).The saw actually stopped the truck!There was no visible damage to the saw and it still runs to this day.There is very little if any,plastic on this saw.


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## OLY-JIM (Jan 6, 2008)

Junkwrencher said:


> A little off-topic fellas, but the subject of running over saws with trucks and tractors came up and in the 80's I directed my father over his Homelite Super-EZ with a Dodge full-sized truck(unloaded).The saw actually stopped the truck!There was no visible damage to the saw and it still runs to this day.There is very little if any,plastic on this saw.



And how many times do you expect this anamoly to prove to be the standard? You not suppose to run over saws with trucks...they're saws!


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## Wood Junkie (Jan 6, 2008)

OLY-JIM said:


> And how many times do you expect this anamoly to prove to be the standard? You not suppose to run over saws with trucks...they're saws!



Come on, isn't that in ALL manufacturers quality assurance testing procedures??? Along with the 10 minute straight gas run,and the 'drop from the 12 story building' test.... Anything less would be unworthy to cut up a log with..... 

I haven't any experience with Echo power equipment,I'm sure they make great products, but I do have a buddy who has and loves his 250. He cuts a ton of wood and has had good luck with it and the previous 025 that he had for ten years. It was recently sold to a family member. He treats his saws as a tool and I've never heard a complaint about the 'soft' plastic.


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## Junkwrencher (Jan 6, 2008)

*Stihl vs. Echo*

I know guys, just saying saws aren't built like they used to be.In defense of the Stihl, I have an MS290 which is built with the same plastic as the MS250,it was dropped 30+ feet from a bucket and still runs with a new tank!I don't know if a magnesium or aluminum cased saw could or would survive that.Trucks, tractors, high-altitude drops, they happen.I used to specialize in skidder recovery saws! Talk about damage!


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## chainsaw kid (Jan 7, 2008)

volks-man said:


> i just bought the 440 and am pleased with it thus far except...
> if you use the whole bar you will bog it,
> that the chain seems to need adjusting a little often, and
> the clutch cover feels a little 'mickey mouse' to me..




I don't like raining on someones parade but this thread is about e-440 vs s-250. That being said....if stihl, or husky were having these problems or buying them out the store and needing vast carb adj's just to make them seem a little better then they wouldn't be on top. I've never used one but I guess dolmar is good for that matter. Point is, your spending good money to buy a 440 and shouldn't have to be bothered with problems a top contender shouldn't have. Therefor, not saying it's junk, it's just not for the guy who wants known reliability/durability and the best in his/hers tools.


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## SawTroll (Jan 7, 2008)

volks-man said:


> i just bought the 440 and am pleased with it thus far except...
> if you use the whole bar you will bog it,
> that the chain seems to need adjusting a little often, and
> the clutch cover feels a little 'mickey mouse' to me.
> ...



Almost anything probably is better than Oregon SL (low profile chain, with bumper tie straps).

I would try the narrow kerf 95VP chain on that saw, alternatively 23RS/RSC or 20LP.


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## Cory2007 (Jan 7, 2008)

Went to Lowe's and looked at the Husqvarna 345e and the 350 today. Everyone is still out of the Echo 440. The Husqvarna has some serious anti vibration with the springs and rubber spacers; I was impressed. I think the Stihl 250 has some rubber spacers and not sure about the Echo 440 (I think just rubber spacers ?) I don't like the choke pull on the Husqvarna; looks cheap. Lowe's has the 345e for $290 and the 350 for $340. My dad has a Echo 500EVL which is 50cc so I thought about the Husqvarna 350. Of course I could go $20 more and get the Echo cs 520. What do you guys think of these saws ?


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## RED-85-Z51 (Jan 7, 2008)

Cory2007 said:


> Went to Lowe's and looked at the Husqvarna 345e and the 350 today. Everyone is still out of the Echo 440. The Husqvarna has some serious anti vibration with the springs and rubber spacers; I was impressed. I think the Stihl 250 has some rubber spacers and not sure about the Echo 440 (I think just rubber spacers ?) I don't like the choke pull on the Husqvarna; looks cheap. Lowe's has the 345e for $290 and the 350 for $340. My dad has a Echo 500EVL which is 50cc so I thought about the Husqvarna 350. Of course I could go $20 more and get the Echo cs 520. What do you guys think of these saws ?



CS-520, and NEVER LOOK BACK..


But go to a Echo Dealer, and it should already be setup for you, ready to go. Price should be the exact same.


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## Brian S (Jan 7, 2008)

Cory2007 said:


> Went to Lowe's and looked at the Husqvarna 345e and the 350 today. Everyone is still out of the Echo 440. The Husqvarna has some serious anti vibration with the springs and rubber spacers; I was impressed. I think the Stihl 250 has some rubber spacers and not sure about the Echo 440 (I think just rubber spacers ?) I don't like the choke pull on the Husqvarna; looks cheap. Lowe's has the 345e for $290 and the 350 for $340. My dad has a Echo 500EVL which is 50cc so I thought about the Husqvarna 350. Of course I could go $20 more and get the Echo cs 520. What do you guys think of these saws ?




Anti vibe on CS-440 is all rubber bushings and feels very effective to me. I like my saw and I'll defend its numerous good qualities to anyone who will listen, but if you are prepared to pay retail prices for either of your choices listed above then I would opt for the husky 350 over the cs-440 at $340.00 vs $299.00. I wouldn't mind having an extra 5 cc's, and I think the Husky comes with NK chain which should maximize the productivity/speed. Keep in mind that Lowe's is NOT the low price leader on Husky's either. BTW I would love a cs-520 at the right price.


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## RED-85-Z51 (Jan 7, 2008)

Brian S said:


> Anti vibe on CS-440 is all rubber bushings and feels very effective to me. I like my saw and I'll defend its numerous good qualities to anyone who will listen, but if you are prepared to pay retail prices for either of your choices listed above then I would opt for the husky 350 over the cs-440 at $340.00 vs $299.00. I wouldn't mind having an extra 5 cc's, and I think the Husky comes with NK chain which should maximize the productivity/speed. Keep in mind that Lowe's is NOT the low price leader on Husky's either. BTW I would love a cs-520 at the right price.



Husky 350 has a plastic case, and has the crank bearings half surrounded by the plastic case.

Echo 440 has a full metal crank case, and both bearings are in the metal case.


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## Brian S (Jan 7, 2008)

Cory you might want to look at this thread too if you already haven't, probably these two threads should be merged. I've posted a lot of info on the cs-440 there.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=59217


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## Brian S (Jan 7, 2008)

RED-85-Z51 said:


> Husky 350 has a plastic case, and has the crank bearings half surrounded by the plastic case.
> 
> Echo 440 has a full metal crank case, and both bearings are in the metal case.



True points, but there are too many happy users of the Husky 350 to discount it as a valid choice for a great firewood/homeowner saw. It was my original #1 choice in a saw but the Echo was less $$.

I think the Echo is built better, but it certainly is less saw in the speed/power dept than the Husky 350. My point is that if you are going to shell out full retail money then the Husky is a better saw if nothing else than from a speed and power standpoint, maybe better anti-vibe too. It may not be put together as well as the echo but it is put together good enough. I hope we can agree with that?

For the record, I've never run a Husky 350 and my opinions are based only on my own observations and research and 10 trips to Lowes/Home Depot to examine and handle both saws pre-purchase.

Also, for the record my opinions are usually wrong.


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## volks-man (Jan 7, 2008)

*tang*



RED-85-Z51 said:


> When you tension the chain, loosen both nuts until you can freely move the bar. Turn the adjuster while holding the bar "up". Until you can pull the chain off the bottom of the bar and it snaps back into contact with the bar rail. Then Tighten both nuts tight, while still holding the bar "up".
> 
> The cover has a tang on the back that must slip under a little lip, it's right in the back of the cover, make sure it is engaged if you take the cover off. I see people not do this, and the cover tends to tweak and move around if you pry on it.
> 
> ...



your post reads just like the saw instructions!!! i have the process down pat but it seems that i have to keep adjusting that damn chain anyway. mind you i am cutting big 12-20 inch, old dead oaks, some with ice where they were piled against one another.... so the chain (and saw) is taking a beating. 

actually the plastic tang on the bottom rear of the cover is exactly the reason i said the cover is a little 'mickey mouse'. it has failure written all over it but i will give it the benefit of the doubt.

i use 87 octane per the instrucion manual. incidentally i use sae 20 on the bar. yes i wrote 20. instructions said sae 30 summer 10 winter so i'm playing the tweener game with some spare 20 i had left over as hydraulic for my old 'woods' backhoe.

thanx for the pointers and chain suggestions.


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## volks-man (Jan 7, 2008)

Cory2007 said:


> Went to Lowe's and looked at the Husqvarna 345e and the 350 today. Everyone is still out of the Echo 440. The Husqvarna has some serious anti vibration with the springs and rubber spacers; I was impressed. I think the Stihl 250 has some rubber spacers and not sure about the Echo 440 (I think just rubber spacers ?) I don't like the choke pull on the Husqvarna; looks cheap. Lowe's has the 345e for $290 and the 350 for $340. My dad has a Echo 500EVL which is 50cc so I thought about the Husqvarna 350. Of course I could go $20 more and get the Echo cs 520. What do you guys think of these saws ?



money not a factor, i would have bought a cs-520.

money is a factor for me, i bought my cs-440 from ebay, new in box for $200 even plus $30 shipping (this is where i take a beating from the senior members around here for not using a dealer). for that kind of money i found it hard to consider anything else.

the 440 antivibe is great. the old-fashioned metal toggle on/off switch is great. the old-fashioned pull choke is great. i can only assume they are just as good on the 520! 

of note: my dad had a 610evl. this was a twin cylinder echo from the late 1980s or early 1990s. he hacked and mounted a homelite bow on it and cut for quite some time, selling cord upon cord of firewood . the 610evl was a great saw. nearly unstoppable as i recall (he used a homelite super-wiz 66 gear drive saw with bow for the really stubborn stuff). that saw is probably what turned me on to echo in the first place! wish i could find that saw now!


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## RED-85-Z51 (Jan 7, 2008)

volks-man said:


> your post reads just like the saw instructions!!! i have the process down pat but it seems that i have to keep adjusting that damn chain anyway. mind you i am cutting big 12-20 inch, old dead oaks, some with ice where they were piled against one another.... so the chain (and saw) is taking a beating.
> 
> actually the plastic tang on the bottom rear of the cover is exactly the reason i said the cover is a little 'mickey mouse'. it has failure written all over it but i will give it the benefit of the doubt.
> 
> ...



I never much consider the Viscosity of bar oils, but Id be sure to use BAR AND CHAIN oil, instead of motor oil, like your post suggests? Not sure if it might be a temperature concern? Bar and Chain oil contains special properties that make it prevent metal to metal contact, and yet dont let it sling off the end of the bar, and at the clutch. 

I split probably 20 feet of oak with my CS-520, with Oregon Pro-Lite 20" bar, and .325 semi Chisel Oregon Chain, and it was still just as tight when I was done, as when I started. And a few of these were "mill cuts" which is about as hard on a bar/chain as a cut can be. I had a bunch of big rounds and no splitter, so I had no choice

Keep the nuts tight, keep good oil in the resevoir, and most importantly a good sharp chain. 

Ive only seen a handfull of problems with the Echo sidecovers. Usually the saw was dropped, or a limb fell on it, or somebody put the cover on with the tang not latched, and started hitting it. It's not the end of the world if it breaks...think of it this way.

It will be cheaper to replace a plastic bar cover, rather than a Stihl Metal bar cover, Id bet. Both can break if you try hard enough, but plastic does at least have some give to it.


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## OLY-JIM (Jan 7, 2008)

volks-man said:


> money not a factor, i would have bought a cs-520.
> 
> money is a factor for me, i bought my cs-440 from ebay, new in box for $200 even plus $30 shipping *(this is where i take a beating from the senior members around here for not using a dealer)*. for that kind of money i found it hard to consider anything else.
> 
> ...



Folks are just joshing you for the most part about eBay. Fact is, you can't buy a $230 out the door 440 from a dealer. So there you have it.

The controls are no different on the 520, they're just as solid.


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## Brian S (Jan 7, 2008)

volks-man said:


> money not a factor, i would have bought a cs-520.
> 
> money is a factor for me, i bought my cs-440 from ebay, new in box for $200 even plus $30 shipping (this is where i take a beating from the senior members around here for not using a dealer). for that kind of money i found it hard to consider anything else.
> 
> ...




I know where a cherry 610evl is. PM me.


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## RED-85-Z51 (Jan 7, 2008)

OLY-JIM said:


> Folks are just joshing you for the most part about eBay. Fact is, you can't buy a $230 out the door 440 from a dealer. So there you have it.
> 
> The controls are no different on the 520, they're just as solid.



Yes, I forgot to mention that point. The controls, Including the kill switch, throttle, and Choke, are the same on the Rear handled Echos, so going from one saw to another wont be so confusing.

I like the choke, it feels solid. The trigger has the perfect spring on it, not too heavy, just the right tension. The kill switch is the best made today to me.

You can 1 finger it quickly to kill. On a Stihl, you have to pull the lever UP, which you can do with your right thumb quickly. On Husky's, the red slider is kinda tough to do, and I always have ot think about which way to move it. If you used Husky's exclusively, probably not an issue.

Honestly, I think Poulan did a good job too,with the big old Toggle...but it is too big to use with gloves and you can hit it too easily.


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## Cory2007 (Jan 8, 2008)

Just need to get my hands on the Echo 440 and look it over. The Husky 345e and 350 looks pretty good. I wonder how much of an issue is the bearings being in a plastic housing versus the Echo being in metal ?


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## mountainlake (Jan 8, 2008)

Cory2007 said:


> Went to Lowe's and looked at the Husqvarna 345e and the 350 today. Everyone is still out of the Echo 440. The Husqvarna has some serious anti vibration with the springs and rubber spacers; I was impressed. I think the Stihl 250 has some rubber spacers and not sure about the Echo 440 (I think just rubber spacers ?) I don't like the choke pull on the Husqvarna; looks cheap. Lowe's has the 345e for $290 and the 350 for $340. My dad has a Echo 500EVL which is 50cc so I thought about the Husqvarna 350. Of course I could go $20 more and get the Echo cs 520. What do you guys think of these saws ?



For $20 more I'd get the CS520 rather than a homeowner Husky. Steve


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## SawTroll (Jan 8, 2008)

Cory2007 said:


> Went to Lowe's and looked at the Husqvarna 345e and the 350 today. Everyone is still out of the Echo 440. The Husqvarna has some serious anti vibration with the springs and rubber spacers; I was impressed. I think the Stihl 250 has some rubber spacers and not sure about the Echo 440 (I think just rubber spacers ?) I don't like the choke pull on the Husqvarna; looks cheap. Lowe's has the 345e for $290 and the 350 for $340. My dad has a Echo 500EVL which is 50cc so I thought about the Husqvarna 350. Of course I could go $20 more and get the Echo cs 520. What do you guys think of these saws ?




The choke/fast idle/on/off system on the small Huskys is the best ever designed _in function_, imo.
I have never seen a broken one, but it sure has happened, as with every other system.


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## Cory2007 (Jan 10, 2008)

Everyone is still out of the Echo 440. I was told by a dealer that the Echo 440 crankcase is plastic just like the Husky 345 and 350. This dealer carries Echo, Stihl, and Husky. Any one for sure on this ?


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## OLY-JIM (Jan 10, 2008)

Cory2007 said:


> Everyone is still out of the Echo 440. I was told by a dealer that the Echo 440 crankcase is plastic just like the Husky 345 and 350. This dealer carries Echo, Stihl, and Husky. Any one for sure on this ?



Not true. I think Brian S has some pics on one of these threads which disproves that as well.

Check out this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=59217&page=3&highlight=cs-440 . I've also personally handled the saw and it's not a plastic case. It does however have plastic side covers.


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## RED-85-Z51 (Jan 10, 2008)

Cory2007 said:


> Everyone is still out of the Echo 440. I was told by a dealer that the Echo 440 crankcase is plastic just like the Husky 345 and 350. This dealer carries Echo, Stihl, and Husky. Any one for sure on this ?



Your Dealer doesnt know is stuff...CS 440 is a metal case, metal block saw.

The metal block holds the seals and bearings in it. The Metal block mounts to a metal case.

The recoil cover is plastic, and the rear handle and Anti-Vibe cradle is plastic composite.

I confirmed firsthand todat that the CS-400 is in fact a plastic case saw, however the crank case is still Metal, and contains its seals and bearings, it sinply mounts to a plastic case.


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## Brian S (Jan 10, 2008)

Red and Oly are correct, your dealer is ignorant of the 440 design.

Lots of metal in the 440.


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## Cory2007 (Jan 11, 2008)

Buying the saw monday. Looking at the Husky 350 and the Echo 440. Both saws are being discontinued. Just my luck I research this out and they phase them out. The Echo is $330 and the Husky is $340. Hopefully the dealer will still have the Echo so I can look at it. I found one 30 miles away. One of the things holding me back on the Husky is the plastic case.


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## Cory2007 (Jan 11, 2008)

O'h yeah, Is the Husky 350's block metal like the Echo ?


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## OLY-JIM (Jan 11, 2008)

No it's not. Plastic case. Better saw though according to many. I can't say myself, I haven't run either one of them...just the 520 in this class.


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## Cory2007 (Jan 16, 2008)

Well guys I bought the Husqvarna 350. I think it is the best bang for the buck.


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## wanab (Jan 17, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> The choke/fast idle/on/off system on the small Huskys is the best ever designed _in function_, imo.
> I have never seen a broken one, but it sure has happened, as with every other system.



agreed, its straitforward and easy to use. suprisingly durable for loooking so flimsy

i looked at the 350 husky and it looks cheaply built. i dont hear of many broken saws but they are prolly out there. peeps do rave about they way they cut.


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## mountainlake (Jan 17, 2008)

Echo controls are way more solid than Huskys, I own both, they wouldn't rave about the way a 350 Husky cuts if they ran a CS510 Echo. Steve


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## OLY-JIM (Jan 17, 2008)

Cory2007 said:


> Well guys I bought the Husqvarna 350. I think it is the best bang for the buck.



Congrats on the new saw. I agree, the 350 has a very attractive price point. According to a lot of members here who own them; it's also a very good running saw.


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## chainsaw kid (Jan 17, 2008)

*Found this....*

Date: 2008-01-12, 3:11PM EST


echo cs440 chainsaw never actualy used but did turn on a couple times. been in my garage for 8 months sinse i bought it brand new. 150 or bo 603-358-3937 or 617-880-9239


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## SawTroll (Jan 18, 2008)

wanab said:


> .... i looked at the 350 husky and it looks cheaply built. i dont hear of many broken saws but they are prolly out there. peeps do rave about they way they cut.



That depends on the eyes that is looking - but it has proven itself in real life, regardless of the plastic case. 
At least the handlebar and clutch cover is metal. A Stihl MS250 looks, and more important, _feels_ waaay cheaper built, imo.


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## nikocker (Jan 18, 2008)

*Great saw.*

Cory - congrats on the 350. My son has had his two years now and runs great.

Post some pics of that saw throwin' chips!

Al


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## 2000ssm6 (Jan 18, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> That depends on the eyes that is looking - but it has proven itself in real life, regardless of the plastic case.
> At least the handlebar and clutch cover is metal. A Stihl MS250 looks, and more important, _feels_ waaay cheaper built, imo.



Did you not see the pics of how a husky was built? 

page 3: http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=60262&page=3


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## bcorradi (Jan 18, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> That depends on the eyes that is looking - but it has proven itself in real life, regardless of the plastic case.
> At least the handlebar and clutch cover is metal. A Stihl MS250 looks, and more important, _feels_ waaay cheaper built, imo.


Stop talking silly Mr Troll. Are you implying the MS250 hasn't proven itself in real life? The MS260 also has a plastic handlebar along with the ms360 and many others. I prefer the plastic over the metal on these saws and think its just as durable if not moreso. Have you found otherwise? I have a box at home full of bent up and damaged metal 026 handlebars and only one damaged so called "plastic" one.


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## OLY-JIM (Jan 18, 2008)

Troll bashing the 250 again...imagine that. Unfortunately for your point of view Troll...the saw just keeps on working great. No reports of "quality" issues from me.


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## SawTroll (Jan 18, 2008)

:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :rockn:


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