# cannot start Stihl MS250 for the life of me!



## Tyler Davis (Jul 25, 2009)

I used a Stihl Farm Boss many years ago - always started by the 3rd or 4th pull. Bought a new Stihl MS 250 with Easy2Start (not for me) system . I have used it twice and both times took me almost 1/2 an hour to get it started. Now I flat out cannot get it to start. Took it back to the dealer, who opened it up, declared the engine was flooded, dried it out. I picked it up today, and the guy showed me again how to start it. Made it look easy. I got it home, tried to start it myself, absolutely nothing. Will not start to turn over (purring sound). 

Here is my technique:

set it on the ground, depress trigger, set switch to Cold Start (last one on the bottom). Pick it up, holding the front handle with my left hand (not holding the chain brake at all).

Pull it hard 3 times in quick succession. Nothing, no sign of it beginning to start. Set the switch to Warm Start, pull it 5 times, nothing. Set it to Run, pull it. Nothing. 

Opened up the case, removed spark plug, checked gap (fine), turned saw upside down. Nothing comes out; it's dry. Put it back together. Set switch to Cold Start, pull it 5 times. Nothing.

What am I doing wrong?


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## wigglesworth (Jul 25, 2009)

On a cold saw. 

1:Set to full choke (switch all the way down)
2:Keep pulling until the saw pops or tries to start
3ush the switch up 1 notch to fast idle
4:Saw should start and idle fast
5:Tap throttle and let saw Idle


It sounds to me like you are flooding it. Hope that helps. Did you get the owners manual? You should read it. It probably describes the same process I described.


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## Tyler Davis (Jul 25, 2009)

I have the owner's manual and it describes it the same way you did, as well as the tech at the dealer. The problem is with step #2. Keep pulling until it tries to start. Last time I pulled it 20x and it never tried to start. 

The saw is "cold" meaning the engine has not been running, but it is 100 F here today, so it is not like trying to start it in winter.


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## wigglesworth (Jul 25, 2009)

Tyler Davis said:


> I have the owner's manual and it describes it the same way you did, as well as the tech at the dealer. The problem is with step #2. Keep pulling until it tries to start. Last time I pulled it 20x and it never tried to start.
> 
> The saw is "cold" meaning the engine has not been running, but it is 100 F here today, so it is not like trying to start it in winter.



If it is in tune, and the dealer started it fairly simple, the only thing left in the equation is you. As soon as it makes that first "pop" take the choke off. If it "pops" and you pull it again with the choke still on, it will probably flood it and you will pull your arm out of socket. If it does flood (i.e. not start) Try holding the throttle wide open while pulling the starter rope. It may take several pulls, but it should clear out.


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## Tyler Davis (Jul 25, 2009)

oh, I fully admit I am the problem, I just cannot figure out what I am doing differently than you described.

How can I confirm that the saw is flooded, rather than assuming? When I duped it upside down w/ the plug out, shouldn't gas have trickled out?

If I do need to un-flood it, I will try your technique of pulling the starter with the throttle (trigger) all the way open . Which switch position should I do this in? Run?


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## derwoodii (Jul 25, 2009)

*cannot start Stihl MS250 for the life of me*

Got one as well have no probs the Easy start maybe your trouble. Perhaps try not to yank it like a 066. Easy starts just a wind up device. I just gentle pull twice on choke when cold it will burp and then switch to 1/2 throttle 1-2 tugs and go. It did take me a while to get use to it now very happy I have 3 others 210 023 025. Hope you get it sorted best luck 

An observation is that with Easy start my 11 year old or 86 year granny could but should not get a saw going. I see a trap in the 
domestic market that unfit or ill equipped can now purchase start and wrong use chain saws. This debate will be settled when the injury stats come in a few years.


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## Tyler Davis (Jul 25, 2009)

thanks, I will try to pull it easier. I feel like I am using the minimum force to pull the cord to full extension. If I pull any lighter, it the cord gets stuck partway through the pull.

How do I confirm that it is currently flooded? When I pull the plug out, there is a thin meniscus of gas in the gap, but nothing comes out when I tip it over.

And what switch setting do I use to un-flood it under full throttle?


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## wigglesworth (Jul 25, 2009)

Your plug will be soaking wet if flooded. Pull the plug out, and pull the rope several times, you will probably, but not always, see a fine mist come out. And yes, when holding the throttle trying to start a flooded engine, put the switch to run.


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## Bill.A.Bong (Jul 25, 2009)

Try just a single pull on full choke before switching to fast idle. If you keep flooding then maybe you aren't hearing the pop....


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## xtm (Jul 25, 2009)

Tyler,

Is your fuel mix absolutely fresh? JMO, but I believe that gasoline with all of the anti-smog additives begins to break down very quickly and should be used up ASAP - particularly 2-stroke fuel mixes. I've noticed that fuel that is more than 2 weeks or so old seems to not run as well in my 2-stroke equipment - and it usually shows up first as balky starting. Now, I won't run anything but fresh fuel in my saws. I try to buy all my fuel in the county west of here where my office is located - because it doesn't have all of the smog additives that the stuff near my house has - and gives me better gas mileage, too.

I hear you about "cold" starting in 100 deg. weather!  My saws seem to run better in cold or cool weather. I don't know exactly why, but neither of them seem to like being run at 100 deg. They often idle roughly at those temps and are always harder to "warm" start - never seem to have those afflictions in cold weather. Vapor lock?? 

xtm


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## Tyler Davis (Jul 25, 2009)

well, I was finally able to start it. After pulling the plug, then 10- pulls on Run to clear the cylinder.

I set it to Full Choke and pull twice as lightly as I could. Even though it didn't pop, I set it to Run and pulled twice more. That's when I heard the pop. So I switched back to Full Choke , 1 pull no pop. Then Half Choke, and it popped on the first pull and flipped it to Run and let it idle. It died twice before I was able to get a full rev.

I will practice this routine until I can do it consistently. It seems very finicky, a lot worse than the old un-assisted start saws. 

I think the Stihl's Better Mousetrap just snapped my neck.... LOL


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## wigglesworth (Jul 25, 2009)

Tyler Davis said:


> well, I was finally able to start it. After pulling the plug, then 10- pulls on Run to clear the cylinder.
> 
> I set it to Full Choke and pull twice as lightly as I could. Even though it didn't pop, I set it to Run and pulled twice more. That's when I heard the pop. So I switched back to Full Choke , 1 pull no pop. Then Half Choke, and it popped on the first pull and flipped it to Run and let it idle. It died twice before I was able to get a full rev.
> 
> ...



Good deal. Just listen for the pop. It sounds like you still flooded it a bit. Pull it on full choke until the pop. Dont touch the switch until you hear the pop. I bet if you had pulled a third time with the choke on it would had pop'd.


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## capetrees (Jul 25, 2009)

Something else that I have found works if its possible flooded, put the switch to half way, hold the trigger full in like you're running it at full rpm with your left hand and pull to start with the right hand. This uses the fuel in the cylinder as if the machine is going to run. Works like a charm.


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## PonderousPiner (Jul 26, 2009)

You're talking about pulling hard or soft, which just doesn't sound right to me for using Easy2Start.  With E2S, you're not pulling the cord to spin the crank, all you're doing is winding a racheting spring. Don't yank. Just wind the cord out with a smooth slow pull. Heck, only pull 6 inches at a time if you want. Again, all you're doing is winding that spring. When it's wound, it cranks itself. Slow pulls can help you hear the 'pop' on full choke, too!

My suggestion is that after the 5th 'crank' at full choke with no pop (which may or may not be the 5th pull you did), move the choke to half/warm start for further pulls/cranks anyway. I bet it'll start fine that way. 

PPine


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## n9emz (Jul 31, 2009)

I initially had the same problem with my MS250. Two pulls on full choke, switch to half choke, and fires right up.

Note that mine does not "hit" or "pop" on full choke....period. First saw I've owned that doesn't, and that's what threw me off in the beginning.


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## angelo c (Jul 31, 2009)

Tyler Davis said:


> well, I was finally able to start it. After pulling the plug, then 10- pulls on Run to clear the cylinder.
> 
> I set it to Full Choke and pull twice as lightly as I could. Even though it didn't pop, I set it to Run and pulled twice more. That's when I heard the pop. So I switched back to Full Choke , 1 pull no pop. Then Half Choke, and it popped on the first pull and flipped it to Run and let it idle. It died twice before I was able to get a full rev.
> 
> ...



Tyler, 
Stick with the 2 stroke starting pattern Wigglesworth qouted above. And don't bounce around back and forth from step to step. 

1:Set to full choke (switch all the way down)
2:Keep pulling until the saw pops or tries to start
3ush the switch up 1 notch to fast idle
4:Saw should start and idle fast
5:Tap throttle and let saw Idle

the key is to keep pulling until it(step 2) burps or the slightest sound change in the starting sound. THEN TAKE it off choke. if you go back and forth from choke to fast idle your messing it up. This process works for ANY 2 stroke. It will save you much grief and will endear you to *** much sooner.
Angelo


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## husky362 (Jul 31, 2009)

*eazy 2 start = slow gental pull*

a lazy gentle pull works on the eazy 2 start you cant jerk them like the others


I've found on the newer stihl's most people don't hear the pop keep pulling and flood them try two slow pulls with choke then switch to fast idle


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## Tyler Davis (Aug 15, 2009)

update: still can't start it

here is a video of my attempt to start it.

http://www.wikiupload.com/download_page.php?id=154768

I am trying to follow the advice given in this thread. 

before the start of the video, I had removed the spark plug and left it in my hot garage to dry for several hours. So it is not starting in a flooded condition.

I start with the switch in full-choke position. Pull the cord as lightly as I can. You can see the cord "catches" every 6 inches until I pull harder. This does not happen when I "drop and yank", which is what I am accustomed to doing. Also when I reach full extension of the cord, it "clicks". I don't know if this is the Easy2Start clutch or what.

I pull 4 or 5 times in full choke. Nothing, as you can hear. Then I try switching to partial choke, and pull, and pull. Nothing. Then "run" nothing. Then "yank and drop". Nothing.

Is this how you are supposed to start an Easy2Start saw?


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## PonderousPiner (Aug 15, 2009)

*Can't see your video*

Just goes to a signup page.

PPine


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## peter399 (Aug 15, 2009)

make sure there are no 346 s around and that 250 will probably start....


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## Tyler Davis (Aug 15, 2009)

I will try uploading the video to google video

In the meantime, I am questioning whether my saw has the Easy2Start system. The model # on the side just says "MS 250". Comparing it to pics on the Stihl website, it looks more like the regular MS250, with two bolts holding the cover instead of the twist-lock plug.

how can I tell for sure what starting system it has? 

and the original question still stands - how the hell do I start this ####### thing?


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## pgg (Aug 15, 2009)

Quickest way to start a flooded saw is to flick the air filter off the carb. The petrol soaked filter is the culprit. A couple of pulls without the filter and she'll fire right up, but, hehe, the best way is to not flood the saw in the first instance


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## Fish (Aug 15, 2009)

send it to me.......


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## Tyler Davis (Aug 15, 2009)

here is the video reposted:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rw4EvkEfe5k


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## Tyler Davis (Aug 15, 2009)

my saw looks like this:







not like this:





questions:
1. does this indicate that my saw does not have Easy2Start, but rather the conventional start?

2. based on the started I have, and the video, do you think I am flooding the saw?

3. if I am flooding the saw, how do I avoid it?


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## THALL10326 (Aug 15, 2009)

Tyler Davis said:


> I used a Stihl Farm Boss many years ago - always started by the 3rd or 4th pull. Bought a new Stihl MS 250 with Easy2Start (not for me) system . I have used it twice and both times took me almost 1/2 an hour to get it started. Now I flat out cannot get it to start. Took it back to the dealer, who opened it up, declared the engine was flooded, dried it out. I picked it up today, and the guy showed me again how to start it. Made it look easy. I got it home, tried to start it myself, absolutely nothing. Will not start to turn over (purring sound).
> 
> Here is my technique:
> 
> ...



The MS250EZ start version has a primer bulb on the right side of the carb housing. Looking at your starting procedure there I noticed you never said whether you primed it or not. No primy, no starty...

Opps, just saw your latest post, so your saw does not have a primer??


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## Tyler Davis (Aug 15, 2009)

THALL10326 said:


> The MS250EZ start version has a primer bulb on the right side of the carb housing. Looking at your starting procedure there I noticed you never said whether you primed it or not. No primy, no starty...
> 
> Opps, just saw your latest post, so your saw does not have a primer??



correct - my saw does not have a primer bulb. I guess I assumed all ms250s came w/ EZstart. So now it looks like I am having difficulty starting a conventional saw....?


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## THALL10326 (Aug 15, 2009)

Tyler Davis said:


> correct - my saw does not have a primer bulb. I guess I assumed all ms250s came w/ EZstart. So now it looks like I am having difficulty starting a conventional saw....?



Seem you are indeed. Now let me get this right. The dealer said it was flooded when you brought it in. You went to get the saw and he showed you how to start it by starting it himself, the saw started right up in his hands but will not start in your hand, have I got that correct?


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## Tyler Davis (Aug 15, 2009)

THALL10326 said:


> Seem you are indeed. Now let me get this right. The dealer said it was flooded when you brought it in. You went to get the saw and he showed you how to start it by starting it himself, the saw started right up in his hands but will not start in your hand, have I got that correct?



exactly. He pulled it 3 times on full choke, and the engine started to "turn over". I know that sound - I have heard it hundreds of times (used to work in landscaping over the summers). I have pulled the cord 20-40x on full choke, and I never hear that sound.


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## THALL10326 (Aug 15, 2009)

Tyler Davis said:


> exactly. He pulled it 3 times on full choke, and the engine started to "turn over". I know that sound - I have heard it hundreds of times (used to work in landscaping over the summers). I have pulled the cord 20-40x on full choke, and I never hear that sound.



Ok, 20-40 times on full choke. Heres whatcha do. Remove the muffler and crank the saw watching the piston. Chances are good your going to see fuel being pushed down the side of the piston on the up stroke meaning the bottom of your engine is full of unburnt fuel. Its got to come out. You said the plug was dry but see if the inside of the engine is dry for good measure. 

If you do see wet fuel being pushed past the piston on the up stroke thats a good thing, thats the problem. Leave the muffler off, set the throttle to the one step up from full choke and start cranking. The air coming into the exhaust will help clear out the engine. When she fires it will be loud as hell. You will hear it sure. Put the muffler back on and start the saw and stay clear of all that smoke that huzzy will be pouring out once it starts..


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## THALL10326 (Aug 15, 2009)

peter399 said:


> make sure there are no 346 s around and that 250 will probably start....



You think so Pete, why my goodness we never thought of that, your a genius Pete. I hear Husky has about a 1000 openings over there, you should go to work for them,LOLOL


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## Tyler Davis (Aug 15, 2009)

THALL10326 said:


> Ok, 20-40 times on full choke. Heres whatcha do. Remove the muffler and crank the saw watching the piston. Chances are good your going to see fuel being pushed down the side of the piston on the up stroke meaning the bottom of your engine is full of unburnt fuel. Its got to come out. You said the plug was dry but see if the inside of the engine is dry for good measure.
> 
> If you do see wet fuel being pushed past the piston on the up stroke thats a good thing, thats the problem. Leave the muffler off, set the throttle to the one step up from full choke and start cranking. The air coming into the exhaust will help clear out the engine. When she fires it will be loud as hell. You will hear it sure. Put the muffler back on and start the saw and stay clear of all that smoke that huzzy will be pouring out once it starts..




OK, what covers do I need to remove to do this? I don't have a repair manual or parts diagram.


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## Fish (Aug 15, 2009)

Send it to Thall then.......

Several threads where you can get a manual.......

One starts with "Media"....

Thall, you been on vacation, or what?????? You expect me to be cordial for
a full week????????


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## Bermie (Aug 15, 2009)

Hey...your manual is on the way...check your email...in about another 20 minutes, I'm on dialup and a 2Mb file takes a loooong time!

FWIW...when starting cold on full choke, even if you feel the compression 'catch' when pulling, switch to half choke immediately. My 250 used to do that, but then I sold it and invested in the 260 pro, I needed the extra oomph...my neighbour loves it (the 250)


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## SteveH (Aug 15, 2009)

Might just take the saw back to the dealer but YOU try to start it. Let them watch you. You've watched them do it and it worked. If you have the ez start, that I'm not at all familiar with [ uh, ok, I don't even know what it is]. But take it in, don't let them start it, let them observe you. Nothing more frustrating than a saw that won't start. Once you figure out what is happening, I'll bet you'll be able to start it every time.


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## Scooterbum (Aug 15, 2009)

Did anybody else watch the video?????????????

Nothing personal, but pull the rope with some authority.
Your pulling on that rope like a little girl.

The dealer pulled it 3 times with the choke on then switched it to fast idle and it started.I'd bet he pulled the rope a lot harder.

Hmmm.......maybe you should try it that way.

If that's all the harder you can pull the rope, then you should just hire someone to do your cuttin'.


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## Tyler Davis (Aug 15, 2009)

Scooterbum said:


> Did anybody else watch the video?????????????
> 
> Nothing personal, but pull the rope with some authority.
> Your pulling on that rope like a little girl.
> ...



Oh, I can definitely pull it a lot harder, and usually do. What I did in the video was based on advice in this thread saying to "pull it as gently as possible". That was based on my assumption that my saw had the Easy2Start system, but it looks like it doesn't after all. 

I usually give it a hard pull and the engine doesn't turn over after 40 pulls. Now it sounds like I have to take the entire thing apart to un-flood it. I have tried to start it about 30 times, and have been successful twice. No idea what I did different those times. I really don't want to drive back to the dealer - they won't even look at it while you wait. I doubt they will supervise me trying to start it in the store.


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## Scooterbum (Aug 15, 2009)

_ "I doubt they will supervise me trying to start it in the store."_

Then take them and the saw outside.


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## Scooterbum (Aug 15, 2009)

Have you tried 2-3 hard pulls on choke them set it to fast idle?

You don't have the easy start system.

A lot of times you won't hear the pop........


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## Tyler Davis (Aug 15, 2009)

Scooterbum said:


> Have you tried 2-3 hard pulls on choke them set it to fast idle?
> 
> You don't have the easy start system.
> 
> A lot of times you won't hear the pop........



so after three hard pulls on choke, set it to fast idle regardless of whether it starts to turn over? then just keep pulling on fast idle no matter how long it takes?

When you pull it in the choke position, is it injecting gas into the cylinder with every pull? Is the same true in fast idle?


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## Scooterbum (Aug 15, 2009)

so after three hard pulls on choke, set it to fast idle regardless of whether it starts to turn over? then just keep pulling on fast idle no matter how long it takes?

*Should fire in at least 2 pulls, If not 1 more pull on choke then off choke.**Too many pulls on choke and it floods then it won't start no matter how many times you pull it.*

When you pull it in the choke position, is it injecting gas into the cylinder with every pull? Is the same true in fast idle?

*Yes just not as much.*


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## rupedoggy (Aug 15, 2009)

Hey Tyler get a clue. Everyone on here is trying to be so nice and you aren't listening. NEVER pull on a saw 40 times. Something is wrong and you have to figure it out. You come on here and expect help but don't even read the owners manual? What's up with that? Now go back to the dealer and pay attention this time! If this seems harsh it is because some people are slow learners.


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## pgg (Aug 15, 2009)

ezy start, ha ha ha , sounds like as about as much use as intelli carb, elasto start and flippy lids, ha ha ha


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## andrethegiant70 (Aug 16, 2009)

*Here's the deal.....*

Ok, the Giant hasn't had a lot of time for posting recently (sorry!) but this one called to me.

Yes, the 025/Ms250s have a bad habit of being hard to start. I know this will open me up to a rash of sh&t, but that's the way it is. I'm also sorry to say that it seems to me that it is somewhat a dealer tuning problem. Dealers will always take the problem saw, unflood it, get it started and then tune the saw to start consistenly every time. The problem is, the SAW IS ALREADY WARM. Let's face it, they don't have time to let the fool thing cool off so they can see if it starts cold. The dealer, now confident that the saw is tuned, happily turns it back over to the owner, who feels silly. He even starts it, just for good measure, before he tosses it in the trunk. All is well, so now we're all set, right? Sound familiar? Now the poor deluded owner takes the saw home and tries to start it from cold, with no luck. I have heard this story a BUNCH of times now. 

Here's the thing: The tune that allows the 025(MS250) to start from warm and idle nicely is NOT always the tune that allows it to start from cold. The cold start setting harder to find ... AND the saw has to be COLD every time you try to find it!! If you DO manage to bully the saw to life on a slightly "off" setting, you are now DONE trying to find the cold start setting because the saw is warm. You have to walk away before you can try again. That is my observation with this line of saws and I have one 021, two 23s, and three 025s.

What you need to do is tune the saw to start from COLD. It is a disgusting, time consuming process, but once you get it, you will like this little saw. My saws start every time, cut well, and are stone reliable now that I understand the issue. 

The process:

Unflood the saw just like the dealer did. Leave the plug out and walk away for a spell, to let the saw dry out. Set the mixture settings just like it indicates on the cover. Replace plug and try to start using the Stihl recommended procedure. You have to listen hard for the pop. With the SLIGHTEST pop, take it off choke. It should now be on the high idle setting (one step up on the lever). Pull a few times, maybe up to 5 or 7. If it starts for you, great. you're there or at least very close. If it doesn't start, you flooded it. Now, some saws may be more forgiving and you still may be able to start them with some wrangling. NOT THIS SAW. This particular saw will not start no matter how many times you yank on it. Flooded is flooded and it won't start until you unflood it. Pull the plug, turn it upside down, and pull it over 10 or 15 times.. leave the plug out, go get a frosty one, and see who got kicked off the island.

Come back after a spell (an hour?) replace plug, and repeat this process AFTER READJUSTING THE IDLE MIXTURE SCREW SLIGHTLY. Your choice, richer or leaner. Yes, you are experimenting!! If you do this enough times, going through the unflooding and drying out process each time, you will soon find the idle mixture setting that will start the saw from cold... once you get this setting, REMEMBER IT. During the experimenting process, you will find that once you're headed in the right direction (leaner or richer) the saw will start to give you a clue or two...a faint pop or a near start. Once you tune it to start cold, it will start from warm or hot just fine. If you need to speed up or slow down the idle a bit, stay the bejesus away from the idle mixture screw...you worked HARD for that setting!! Just use the idle SPEED screw.

I walked Rookie1 through this with his 021 (he also was pulling his hair out) and once he got it, everything was fab. Yeah, I know, you shouldn't have to do this, and there will probably be a few Stihl fellers (sorry in advance guys) who will say that there's something really wrong with the saw if it won't start every time with the recommended procedure. I honestly don't know what to say about that, maybe it's true, or maybe it's hubris. However, that must mean there is something wrong with all three of my 025s and they all have exactly the same problem, which I've handled pretty well using the above procedure. You can too.

I think it's one of the reasons a few of the guys (Windthrown's "miserable to run" comment comes to mind) don't like these. I do understand that, but my patience was well rewarded with good, reliable starts, and nice-running saws. I've muffler modded them and they wake up very nicely. They are easy to work on, light, and they make nice, if modest, firewood saws. Having mucked around with them enough to understand them, I am a big fan of these little guys. 

In my opinion, the 021 and 23 do not quite have the internal durability of the 025 (do a search on bent rods sometime, but don't show it to your mother) so you made a good choice there.

Good luck!!


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## dingeryote (Aug 16, 2009)

andrethegiant70 said:


> Ok, the Giant hasn't had a lot of time for posting recently (sorry!) but this one called to me.
> 
> Yes, the 025/Ms250s have a bad habit of being hard to start. I know this will open me up to a rash of sh&t, but that's the way it is. I'm also sorry to say that it seems to me that it is somewhat a dealer tuning problem. Dealers will always take the problem saw, unflood it, get it started and then tune the saw to start consistenly every time. The problem is, the SAW IS ALREADY WARM. Let's face it, they don't have time to let the fool thing cool off so they can see if it starts cold. The dealer, now confident that the saw is tuned, happily turns it back over to the owner, who feels silly. He even starts it, just for good measure, before he tosses it in the trunk. All is well, so now we're all set, right? Sound familiar? Now the poor deluded owner takes the saw home and tries to start it from cold, with no luck. I have heard this story a BUNCH of times now.
> 
> ...



:agree2::agree2::agree2::agree2:

I have beat the living tar outta the wifes MS-250 since 05' when we were clearing for this house and some jackass swiped my 346 and 262.

She previously beat the crap outta the thing(Literally dropped trees on it) for a couple years prior to that.

They ain't a pro saw, but will tolerate thier share of heavy use.

Ours used to hate me. It flat out would NOT start for me, though the wife had no issues with it. I finally figured out what was going on.

Our local dealer had instructed her to only pull three times on choke with or without a pop, and then switching to high idle, or it would flood.

That led me to adjusting the idle to as lean as possible while cold, and it's been an easy starter ever since.

The trick is to get it started and adjusted in a couple Min. or less, let it cool down and try again a little more lean each time, and then follow through with the usual bog and wiggle tests.

Once set, it's a 3rd pull or less every time.

Just quit tryin' to stretch the cord with 40 pulls in a row.
All you're doin' is wearing the spring thingys and frustrating yourself.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## PonderousPiner (Aug 16, 2009)

*Not Easy2Start so follow the good advice!*

Naw, that's not an Easy2Start saw, so disregard all the original advice on how to start those. Everyone's been giving good advice since your video, so just a matter of following it now.

Since your saw doesn't have Easy2Start, there's a good video on how to start a Stihl on the Stihl website. That may also help.

PPine


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## Tyler Davis (Aug 16, 2009)

Ok, I have 3 adjustment screws on my saw. They are marker "H", "L", and "LA". The manual calls the H and L screws "high speed screw" and "low speed screw" respectively. It calls the LA screw "idle speed screw". 

Which is the "idle mixture adjustment" and which way do I turn it for lean/rich mixture?


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## angelo c (Aug 16, 2009)

Tyler Davis said:


> Ok, I have 3 adjustment screws on my saw. They are marker "H", "L", and "LA". The manual calls the H and L screws "high speed screw" and "low speed screw" respectively. It calls the LA screw "idle speed screw".
> 
> Which is the "idle mixture adjustment" and which way do I turn it for lean/rich mixture?



L is the idle mixture adjustment. 
LA is the Idle Speed adjustment.

I don't have an 025 manual but normally IN- is leaning( clockwise )out is richening( counteclock wise) Look to see which direction is in or out?

A


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## andrethegiant70 (Aug 16, 2009)

Tyler Davis said:


> Ok, I have 3 adjustment screws on my saw. They are marker "H", "L", and "LA". The manual calls the H and L screws "high speed screw" and "low speed screw" respectively. It calls the LA screw "idle speed screw".
> 
> Which is the "idle mixture adjustment" and which way do I turn it for lean/rich mixture?



It is good news that you have three adjustment screws total. Many of these saws were outfitted with only the idle mixture adjustment and the idle speed screw... the high speed mixture screw was omitted (fixed jet). Once you get this puppy running nicely, you can open up the muffler some as long as you richen the high speed mixture screw. You will see a noticeable increase in performance. 

One step at a time, though! Stick with it, you'll get it!


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## Dan_IN_MN (Aug 16, 2009)

Okay.....is there someone that lives close to this guy that can help/show him how to get this puppy running?

I drop start. Using the weight and momentum of the saw flips it over pretty good.

If a saw is flooded, I put it on the ground, choke open, throttle held open with left hand, knee on top of the saw to hold it down, and the right hand pulling the rope.

A two stroke CAN NOT run with any liquid in the crankcase. FYI

I use the term "fire" for the pop noise. The engine is "turning over" every time the rope is pulled and when it's running.


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## Justsaws (Aug 16, 2009)

If it is 100F a lot and the saw has been stored with gas in the tank you may not need to choke it at all. Next time try starting it with the switch in the second position from the bottom. 

Give it no more than 3 pulls.

If no start then choke it and pull it once or twice and then set switch in the second position from the bottom. 

How old is this saw?


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## KodiakKen (Aug 17, 2009)

*bought one off ebay.*

I just bought a 250 easy start off ebay for $300 because it looked great and I wanted to see what the easy start was all about.. RTFM..(read the flippin manual)...I have had Stihl saws most of my smart adult life. I got this one via fedex and fueled it up..pumped the primer bulb and pulled it one time on full choke..popped..one pull on half choke..runs..guy I bought it from said he used it for one small takedown..and I believe it..clean saw. I just wanted to see how the easy start thing worked..personally I am not a fan. My dad taught me if you can't cock the gun you can't shoot it. If you can't start the saw..probably shouldn't run it. btw..I giggled like a schoolgirl every time I started the easy start thing..it is a toy..not to get down on the people that use them..just concerned about the lawsuits from the people that couldn't start a saw without it. I think it is a good idea for 2 reasons.. women that can't pull over a big saw and seasoned people that don't have the strength to get the old girl started anymore. Good luck


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## angelo c (Aug 25, 2009)

MS 250 stories cont.

I was given a "blankety blank" ms250 the other day. Guy says he hates it, can't get it to run for nuttin' its a POS. He has a 460 next to it that is a real saw and a husky 455 as a backup. I'm there to check out a grinder he posted on CL( that's another story...) anyway he is hatin' on the 250. Says he has had it to two shops and no one can start it. they condemned it to the "clunker" pile. I say let me have her for a few days. He says only if you keep it and get it out of here...OK if I have to.

I remembered this thread and started normal checks...spark-good, fuel-getting there, pull filter-clean enough, Compression 130+. OK what's the deal? Pull,pull, pull keeps flooding don't want any part of starting(or burping). Yup I get frustrated some. Change out the plug and so on...come back to this thread and remember its a "easy start"...has the bulb and wind em up chain adjuster. This morning I say, man I don't remember feeling anything different when pulling on this saw then any other 260 or smaller saw I've ever pulled, what is this "easy start" thing all about. Anyway I go downstairs to feel what the differences are and I say lets just pull once on choke, no bulb push in and see what we get. I got to tell you I can't tell the difference but there was a slight burp, and man it was more like passing gas( SBD ) then a good old 2 stroke burp. Anyway knock it off choke and get a good burp. two more pulls and it fires. 

Maybe Tommy or one of the pros can tell me, but what does the "easy start" do other then make it NOT easy to start?. I was gonna keep this thing as a "loaner" but it's too complicated to start....the jury is still out on this one for me. It's clearly not going to sit next to the 026 just yet though. She might be the red handled "Step child"...for now.


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## Tyler Davis (Aug 31, 2009)

OK, wanted to post an update for all of you that have helped me.

First, I turned the idle mixture screw almost 3 full turns leaner. Not sure how it was set that rich, but probably contributed a lot to the flooding.

I have been able to consistently get it started within a dozen pulls. The trick is to never pull more than twice on full choke no matter if it putters or not. It is constantly over 90F here, and often over 100F. I learned that at those temperatures, there is no such thing as a "cold" engine, even if it hasn't been run in a week. I am often able to get it started within a few pulls on the partial choke setting, without using full choke at all.

So I guess the lesson is that this saw is very susceptible to flooding, and to be very judicious in the use of the full choke setting.


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## Dan_IN_MN (Aug 31, 2009)

3 turns leaner? Most saws start out at one turn out on the H and L screws and then adjust from there when it's running. 3 turns plus out really could get too much gas.


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## peter399 (Aug 31, 2009)

Guys, 

I can't remember when I had this much fun last time. Holy crap.
I was almost on my way there somewhere in the middle to get an air ticket over the pond and cut that wood for you. You must have upper arms thicker than a 12 inch log from all that pulling. And the video "pulling as gently as possible" ( and then it turns out that you don't have 
an easy. .sorry .. hard to start saw. ) almost killed me. 

I'd quote Tommies advice to clean out the flooded engine by pulling with the muffler off and put into the E2S user manual. Too bad you got it stared now and this thread dies. Buy hey, why not continue the thread until it starts in less than a dozen pulls ? That would be your next challenge.


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## runningdog (Apr 12, 2017)

Tyler Davis said:


> I used a Stihl Farm Boss many years ago - always started by the 3rd or 4th pull. Bought a new Stihl MS 250 with Easy2Start (not for me) system . I have used it twice and both times took me almost 1/2 an hour to get it started. Now I flat out cannot get it to start. Took it back to the dealer, who opened it up, declared the engine was flooded, dried it out. I picked it up today, and the guy showed me again how to start it. Made it look easy. I got it home, tried to start it myself, absolutely nothing. Will not start to turn over (purring sound).
> 
> Here is my technique:
> 
> ...




I have the Stihl MS 250C Easy2Start

I got it used (like new) and had never used Easy2Start before. I didn't have a clue about it.
It wouldn't start. When I pulled the cord there was plenty of spring back, but nothing happened; no feeling of engagement whatsoever, no pop or start sound; nothing.
Started searching.
No manual. I could find no reference manual for the Stihl MS 250C Easy2Start on any of Stihl's sites worldwide; only the manual for the MS250. No mention of easy2start. I can't reason why this is; are they embarrassed about it?
I finally found a breakdown of the recoil starter on a parts seller site.

Based on this info I disassembled the recoil unit:
This is not a difficult process; just be cautious,
Removed the c-clip and pulled off the easy2start unit off the arbor.
You don't have to touch the screw on top of the arbor.
Everything looked like new and in perfect condition.
When you pull the start cord the two little pawls should spring out to engage the easy2start unit.
This wasn't happening. The movement of the pawls was very stiff and they wouldn't spring out.
I removed the spring clip which guides the movement of the pawls and holds them in place.
Be careful to keep the start rope unit and the spring below it in place so that it doesn't un-spring; this isn't hard to do; I'm just urging caution.
I was able, by moving the pawls, to see that they were very stiff.
I removed each pawl and sanded the cylinder with very fine sandpaper (400 grit) until I could reinsert them and get free movement. It doesn't take much.
I replaced the spring clip being careful to install it in the proper orientation.
When I pulled the start cord, the pawls sprung out the way they should.
I reassembled the recoil unit.

The saw started the way it should:
Pull the cord gently on cold choke; hear the pop.
Pull the cord gently on warm choke; away it goes.


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## Tyler Davis (Apr 13, 2017)

wow! this is an old dead thread you have brought back to life!

Happy to report that, 8 years after I started this thread, I have my MS250 (without Easy2Start) well-tuned, starting on 2-3 pulls every time, and running like a champ. Last summer I cut up 9-cord grapple load of hardwood with the Mighty Midget

I don't know if this thread will help anyone else, but thanks for the memories


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## derwoodii (Apr 13, 2017)

ha funny 8 year later but good brave handy workshop running dog to pull apart the mechanism as its very fiddly and easy to have a spring or part jump out. My 025 still going ok tho i have had to replace the start hub arbor as worn out and failed to engage but in doing so the shop gave men the wrong part and so some frustration to figure this out of have to do it twice
The saw itself has worked hard training hmm 150 plus new saw users each starting a saw for their 1st time and doing it over and over it proved very handy for any crew ladys as no need for shear strength just gentle yank and it goes.


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## andrethegiant70 (Apr 13, 2017)

Yea, fun thread from the old days! Glad you got it figured out! They start out a bit fiddly, but once you get them dialed in, they become a nice little firewood saw. I firmly believe that the more choked up those saws got due to EPA restrictions, the harder they were to get the mixtures right. That stupid little hole in the muffler just didn't let them breathe. Then they changed the carb from the nice WT-215 and things got worse. ANY 025/250 that came in my door would get a used, EBAY WT-215 and a roto-rooter job on the muffler. A whole new saw. I took one of them all apart and did a port job on it... didn't mess with timing or anything, just widened the exhaust and intake. It became an incredibly snappy and satisfying saw to run.


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## TS73 (Apr 13, 2017)

I agree - i fought with my MS250 for 2 years. If you tuned the saw to run correctly it would flood on re-starts 95% of the time. I almost swore off Stihl because of the frustration. Then I read about the muffler mod to open up the tiny exhaust hole to let the saw breath and re-adjust the carb to match. Now it never takes more than 3 pulls to start - great little saw now.


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