# MODED Poulan Wildthing 2375



## brad1000s (Dec 5, 2009)

Ok fellas before you start laughing at me or making fun of my saw, its because of you as to why i did this. The first mods I made were to the airfilter and carb. There is a little piece of plastic that covered the carb intake...that was removed. As well as the choke and choke rod. (holes filled with 5mm screws). Next, I did a little port work. I mostly opened up the exhaust port by cutting the top of the port to increase RPM... like a powervalve on a dirtbike. Last was the muffler. The spark screen was tossed. The muffler internals were drilled and opened up. The two little slits in the back of the muffler were closed off and hole drilled in the front of the muffler. In the end all I was after was to take a POS saw and make it cut.
"holy crap"! This thing revs like mad and i swear it cuts twice as fast as it did stock. Now i'll just see if it holds together.


----------



## dingeryote (Dec 5, 2009)

Turn on the camera, tape the trigger, start it, set it down and RUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Effective casualty radius for that much plastic and pot metal is about 5m. which is about the same as a M-67 Fragmentation grenade.

Sounds like a hoot for the academics of it.

Lotsa work though.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


----------



## Banshee (Dec 5, 2009)

brad1000s said:


> Ok fellas before you start laughing at me or making fun of my saw, its because of you as to why i did this. The first mods I made were to the airfilter and carb. There is a little piece of plastic that covered the carb intake...that was removed. As well as the choke and choke rod. (holes filled with 5mm screws). Next, I did a little port work. I mostly opened up the exhaust port by cutting the top of the port to increase RPM... like a powervalve on a dirtbike. Last was the muffler. The spark screen was tossed. The muffler internals were drilled and opened up. The two little slits in the back of the muffler were closed off and hole drilled in the front of the muffler. In the end all I was after was to take a POS saw and make it cut.
> "holy crap"! This thing revs like mad and i swear it cuts twice as fast as it did stock. Now i'll just see if it holds together.



You still could have advanced the timing and removed the cylinder gasket, if you had room of course.


----------



## egtx03 (Dec 5, 2009)

Hey Guys, New Here but been reading FOREVER!!!!! love this website...haha

ive been working onsome of my friends saws & have really gotten the knack for fixing chainsaws!! ive found a new hobby... lol

....i have a 2375 poulan as well that i have ported & muf modded, tuned as well, thing screams like mad, put a 3/8 chain on it and it cuts like mad...

however i have always wondered how the timing worked on the wild thing or any saw for that matter..., i havnt been able to figure it out (advancing).... 

i just picked up a 4620 (quick adjust, horrible i know..., on a thanks giving day sale, refurb, 89 bucks) that i have switched to a PP295 standard screw adjust clutch cover/brake & it is lacking some HP/TQ.. it just feels sluggish for some reason...

my 42CC wildthing outcuts the PP4620 46cc.... muff modded(woke it up a bit) & tuned

the wild thing was the first saw i bought by myself, have rebuilt the carb twice but the thing rips, i just cant bring myself to get rid of it!!!

ive read alot about fixed timing coils & such.... how would i tell if its fixed or not(new to modding) 

Thanks,
Erik


----------



## Outlaw5.0 (Dec 5, 2009)

No base gasket on those, its a clam shell engine.


----------



## MostShady1 (Feb 14, 2010)

*Wild Thing*

Anybody on here can say whatever they want, but I bought a Wild Thing over a decade ago. I've added a set of dawgs to her and she's still cutting like new. I worn out a bar and plenty of chains, but the old green and purple is still cutting today. (only the small stuff, of course, since the addition of larger saws to the collection )



I've been wanting to do a muffler mod on her for a while now, I just can't decide exactly how I want to do it.


----------



## rms61moparman (Feb 14, 2010)

I ported one a while back and it was unbelieveable how much it woke up.
Must be a pretty good design, I guess that is why Stihl is copying it on all of their new saws!oke:


Mike


----------



## roncoinc (Feb 14, 2010)

rms61moparman said:


> I ported one a while back and it was unbelieveable how much it woke up.
> Must be a pretty good design, I guess that is why Stihl is copying it on all of their new saws!oke:
> 
> 
> Mike



I thought they were made by stihl ??


----------



## HARRY BARKER (Feb 14, 2010)

roncoinc said:


> i thought they were made by stihl ??


omg!


----------



## rms61moparman (Feb 14, 2010)

roncoinc said:


> I thought they were made by stihl ??



No,

Stihl just "borrowed" the technology.
I wonder if Poulan sold them the patent rights?????:monkey:


Mike


----------



## matt9923 (Feb 14, 2010)

roncoinc said:


> I thought they were made by stihl ??



i thought they were made by Husky?


----------



## roncoinc (Feb 14, 2010)

rms61moparman said:


> No,
> 
> Stihl just "borrowed" the technology.
> I wonder if Poulan sold them the patent rights?????:monkey:
> ...



The chinese dont need any patent rights :0


----------



## stihlboy (Feb 14, 2010)

hmm i got me a modded one too:monkey:


----------



## Banacanin (Feb 14, 2010)

roncoinc said:


> The chinese dont need any patent rights :0



Badges, we don't need no stinkin badges


----------



## stihlboy (Feb 14, 2010)




----------



## DSS (Feb 14, 2010)

Been wondering for awhile if anyone ever modded a wild thing,but i never had enough cojones to ask. I think this is hilarious.....................


----------



## Muffler Bearing (Feb 14, 2010)

Dang Best Saw Husky ever made.


----------



## rms61moparman (Feb 14, 2010)

Muffler Bearing said:


> Dang Best Saw Husky ever made.



The Stihl engineers obviously thought so!


Mike


----------



## Muffler Bearing (Feb 14, 2010)

rms61moparman said:


> The Stihl engineers obviously thought so!
> 
> 
> Mike



oke:


----------



## LarryTheCableGuy (Feb 14, 2010)

MostShady1 said:


> I've been wanting to do a muffler mod on her for a while now, I just can't decide exactly how I want to do it.



WildThingies call for a .22 Repeat as necessary until it's "just right". If the cops show up for discharging a firearm within city limits, just tell 'em that it's a "tool".


.


----------



## Saw Dr. (Feb 14, 2010)

The only way to adjust the timing on those is to move the coil, or re-index the flywheel. The key is moulded into the flywheel. I have seen SEVERAL of those with sheared keys. The nuts don't get tightened enough at the factory. The saw kicks back on compression when you shut it down, and shears the key. 

Advancing timing more than a degree or two on saw engines is flirting with trouble. That trick has been tried by lots of guys to cover up bad port work. Those engines do not live long from what I hear.


----------



## mark360T (Feb 14, 2010)

i modded my wild thing drilled a 3/8 hole in the muffler and tuned the carb, also pulled the limiter caps. I bought a .325 sprocket and bought an 18&20in. bar and chain combos, then i replaced the safety chains with carlton semi-chisel pro chains and i bought a dawg for it also


----------



## procarbine2k1 (Feb 14, 2010)

I thought about building one, just because they receive so much negative attention here on the boards. Just haven't been able to make myself buy one yet.


----------



## roncoinc (Feb 14, 2010)

I WANT ONE !!!


----------



## rms61moparman (Feb 14, 2010)

roncoinc said:


> I WANT ONE !!!





Well,

How badly do you want one?????

Already ported, or ready for you to go to work on???

Come in here a little closer son, I can see you are a man with discriminating tastes!
Tell ya what I'm gonna do.....................


----------



## JohnnyBoy1986 (Feb 14, 2010)

i ported one and did a muffler mod a while back for the shear hell of it lol i figured if i was going to try it, id use an expendable saw and if it held together long enough, i may try it on one of my saws lol. it was truely amazing at how much this little saw woke up after the muffler mod!

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/79OPRW2CN_M&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/79OPRW2CN_M&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>


----------



## Mastermind (Feb 14, 2010)

That thing sounds sweet johnnyboy is that a 3/4" pipe in the muff? rep sent


----------



## copperdoc1 (Feb 14, 2010)

Ive got two small poulans in the shed, and I always take one to woods with me for anyone who would like to help! But I'll tell ya what, they dont cut terrible, start on the first pull everytime and will sit and idle all day long. So I'll keep them. At least, till they die. ha ha


----------



## JohnnyBoy1986 (Feb 14, 2010)

mastermind7864 said:


> That thing sounds sweet johnnyboy is that a 3/4" pipe in the muff? rep sent



close, its a little more than 1/2" but not quite a 3/4" lol so id assume a 3/4 would sound and perform the same


----------



## highpointtree (Feb 14, 2010)

you guy's keep this up and those wildthingy's are going to double in price...LOL


----------



## Rftreeman (Feb 14, 2010)

I'm on my way to wal-mart right now.............


----------



## rmh3481 (Feb 14, 2010)

You can check the amount of ignition advance with a self powered timing light and a degree wheel. Most saws are around 25 degrees of ignition advance. 

Set the piston to top dead center and scribe a line on the case to a reference point. Start the engine and use the light to see how much advance the ignition develops. The advance isnt linear though and if I remember correctly comes in steps. Most cdi units have a start spark retard to keep the engine from running backwards.


----------



## MostShady1 (Feb 16, 2010)

*Wild Thing, I think I love you!!!*

That's it, I can't take it anymore. I'm going out to the shop right now and get into that little muffler!


----------



## mikecrts (Feb 16, 2010)

I to am an owner of a Wild Thing, its still in the box as I wait for my Husqvarna 65 to die, thing is still running from the 70's and I might just have to open up that box and mod the little wild thing.


----------



## o8f150 (Feb 16, 2010)

i did a muffler mod on my 1950 wood shark and put a 12" chain and bar on it,,,this thing just plain screams


----------



## MostShady1 (Feb 17, 2010)

Went out and modded that little joker last night. This little sucker sounds sick!!! Revs hella fast, too. Can't wait to eat some wood with it, especially with the dawgs I added now!


----------



## GlenM (Feb 17, 2010)

MostShady1 said:


> Went out and modded that little joker last night. This little sucker sounds sick!!! Revs hella fast, too. Can't wait to eat some wood with it, especially with the dawgs I added now!



How do you add dawgs to a WildThing ?


----------



## ms290 (Feb 17, 2010)

you take and tie your wifes poodles to it:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## J.W Younger (Feb 17, 2010)

MostShady1 said:


> Went out and modded that little joker last night. This little sucker sounds sick!!! Revs hella fast, too. Can't wait to eat some wood with it, especially with the dawgs I added now!


How did you add dawgs, the oil tank has no place to mount an inner dog so I was wondering where to find an outer to bolt under the bar nuts?...is there a husky outer that will fit?


----------



## GlenM (Feb 17, 2010)

I'd need to see a picture of this.


----------



## ultra353 (Feb 17, 2010)

Well i`ll chime in too! I took a poulan 2300 cva and ported it( my first attempt at porting), widend and shaped the exh, openend up the intake ports( open port ) modded the muffler and removed the cyl base gasket- just used sealer on it. I had to readjust the h/l jets to get it to run right and now she just screams! Builds up rpms very fast and pretty responsive too. I haven`t had a chance to try it out as the chain is no good. I figured why not, it was a freebie!


----------



## Farley9n (Feb 17, 2010)

*Here's mine!*

Here are a few pictures of mine! Fun to do and fun to run at the GTG's.
There are a couple video's of it on YouTube under my name. 
PS.....I don't advocate removing the "Base Gasket"......Bob.....




.


----------



## GlenM (Feb 17, 2010)

Farley,
Good job,
Did you close the vents on the back?


----------



## Farley9n (Feb 17, 2010)

*Thanks!*

Just tap them shut. Then you can braze over them. I remove everything inside and support the outer can with stainless tubes cut to length......Bob


----------



## MostShady1 (Feb 17, 2010)

GlenM said:


> I'd need to see a picture of this.



Ask and ye shall receive!!!


----------



## GlenM (Feb 17, 2010)

Slick !!
thanks,


----------



## wayne reutner (Feb 17, 2010)

wildthings are like fat girls there fun to use when your Friends aren't around


----------



## MostShady1 (Feb 17, 2010)

wayne reutner said:


> wildthings are like fat girls there fun to use when your Friends aren't around



No way dude! I've got a spare bar with a "NO FAT CHICKS!!" bumper sticker on it!!!


----------



## copperdoc1 (Feb 17, 2010)

:yourock:


----------



## Zuni (Feb 17, 2010)

ha ha those dawgs are cool! where did you get them? 

We also need pics of how you mounted them... I'd like to add some to mine:biggrinbounce2:


----------



## MostShady1 (Feb 17, 2010)

Zuni said:


> ha ha those dawgs are cool! where did you get them?
> 
> We also need pics of how you mounted them... I'd like to add some to mine:biggrinbounce2:



I'll do you one better, I'll add the link to the fleabay seller!

http://cgi.ebay.com/BUCKING-SPIKE-SPUR-FOR-POULAN-4018-WILDTHING-CHAINSAW_W0QQitemZ360235803896QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Chainsaws?hash=item53dfba24f8

Always willing to help a fellow chip-flinger!!! 

If that doesn't work, PM me with your email, I'll send you the link that way.


----------



## Zuni (Feb 17, 2010)

right on i'm gettin some right now!


----------



## mile9socounty (Feb 17, 2010)

Holy living hell Farley9n. That modded "Wild" Thing you have there. That little sucker sounds really mean. Cut's good too. But I still won't buy one. Not too fond of the colors.


----------



## Brian B. (Feb 21, 2013)

Admittedly an ancient thread, but posts like these make you realize just how GOOD almost all the saws are today..


----------



## WillBrayJr (Feb 21, 2013)

NEVER did like the green/purple color combo. There are black/purple Wildthings that look mucho better.


----------



## screamin350 (Feb 21, 2013)

Anyone have an updated link for that spike?


----------



## Chris-PA (Feb 21, 2013)

I believe the spike for the 46cc saws and the 42cc saws is the same.

As for color, get a Craftsman version, or better yet get one with A/V. A PP260 is a Wild Thing with a chrome bore and A/V, although the A/V version have several significant differences in the carb, linkages and controls area. The engines are the same otherwise.


----------



## Chris-PA (Feb 21, 2013)

I'm going to re-post this here because people invariably confuse the different Poulan models:

<blockquote>This is what I've learned about the older plastic Poulan saws – by older I mean pre-strato engines. There are similar Craftsman versions of many of these (not the Husqvarna), which sometimes have slightly different mix of features.

*Poulan Wild Thing*

Models include the 1950, 2050, 2055, 2150, 2175, 2375, PP210, PP262 in displacements from 33cc to 42cc. There is no anti-vibe and they can be identified by the primer bulb and the distinctive vertical duct bulge that runs from the top of the recoil cover into the top cover. They're not that light and fairly wide, but not too bad either.

The engine is a basic clamshell type with a slug piston and open single transfers. The connecting rod is a flat cross section (stamped?), but is fairly thick and I've not heard of this being a weakness. Flywheels have deep fins and they appear to move a lot of air. 

Some have chain brakes, some don't. Clutches are outboard type with simple spur drive sprockets. All use 3/8 LoPro chain. Most use Walbro WT carbs and foam air filter that works OK if it's oiled. The plastic clutch cover/chain brake tend to warp a bit over time, especially with heat from the clutch area, as they are supported only at the bar studs. Bar studs are toggle head bolts and go though the plastic case (as opposed to being threaded into the plastic like an MS250).

*Poulan 2250*

Models include the 2250, 2550, 2555, PP220, PP230, PP260, in displacements from 36cc to 42cc. These are the same basic design as the Wild Thing family, but have A/V. The A/V uses a spring-type suspension for isolation, which tends to be rather soft and allows a fair amount of movement, but it is smooth. There are considerable differences in the choke and throttle linkages, on/off switch, the carb, the top cover and the air filter mount. The top cover on these has two internal ridges that help keep the air filter seated, which the Wild Thing ones do not have. The choke is located on a terrible position and is really hard to access with gloves.

Chain brakes were optional. All use 3/8 LoPro chain.

*Poulan 2500*

Models include the 2500, 2600, 2700, 2750, 2775, 3050, PP255, PP295, PP4620, PP310, PP315, as well as the Jonsered 2036 and 2040. Displacements run from 36cc to 49cc. There is no primer bulb, and the Jonsered versions have a different shaped recoil and top cover just for decoration. The engines in this family are different from those in the Wild Thing family saws. For one, the crank is about 1/2” narrower, and the flywheel has shallower fins, allowing the whole saw to be lighter and much narrower as well. They are about 10lbs. 

The connecting rod has an I-beam cross section. They use a chromed bore. The exhaust port shape is very similar to the Wild Thing, but the intake is a bit different. These saws respond very well to opening up the muffler and make a surprising amount of power for their displacement. They use Walbro WT carbs and a flocked air filter.

There is an external handle frame with a spring-type suspension for isolation, which tends to be rather soft. 

Some of these are labeled “Turbo” and some are “Super Clean” - the Turbo versions use the small scoop by the flywheel fan to keep debris out of the airbox, while the Super Clean ones just have a pickup in the air stream between the cylinder and the carb. Only the Super Clean type parts are available any more, but they mostly interchange – there are some differences between early and later saws regarding the intake boot and impulse line. 

Chain brakes are on most later saws. Most of these use 0.325” chain. 

I have found three design weaknesses on these saws. First, the muffler heat shield on earlier Type I saws fatigue fails in the area around the muffler outlet. If you have a chain brake it can melt when the deflector falls off, and heat damage around the muffler is common. Second, the engine mount screws often back out. There is no locking hardware and they sit in a floating shoulder bushing that can spin so it would not work well anyway. Locktite will not work well with the thread type on the original screws. Many saws have been damaged by lost or broken screws. Last, the A/V mounts are easily damaged if the saw gets pinched and a gorilla tries to yank it out. 

*Husqvarna 36*

Models include the 36, 136, 141, 142 in displacements from 36cc to 40cc. These use the same engine family as the Poulan 2500 series, but have a different “saddle” type case that fits over the handle/tank and has rubber A/V mounts. The A/V system allows less movement than the spring types used on the Poulans. The size and weight is about the same as the Poulan 2500 family. The air filter looks similar to the 2500 but is slightly different, and all use the Turbo filter scoop. Some of these are 0.325” and some are 3/8 LoPro chain, and the 142s came with 0.043” Microlite. Clutches, drive sprockets and bars interchange on all these saws. 

The 142e saws come with catalyst mufflers that are very restrictive. With a little bit of work the muffler and heat shield can be replaced with the parts from the 141, which really helps power.</blockquote>


----------



## diggers_dad (Feb 21, 2013)

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> I'm going to re-post this here because people invariably confuse the different Poulan models:
> 
> <blockquote>This is what I've learned about the older plastic Poulan saws – by older I mean pre-strato engines. There are similar Craftsman versions of many of these (not the Husqvarna), which sometimes have slightly different mix of features.
> 
> ...



That's good information. I tried to rep ya but I have to spread it around first.


----------



## half_full (Feb 21, 2013)

great info on the Poulan stuff. One question, the 2550 is listed in the 2250 and 2500 sections. Is this a typo or a model year change?
Don't get me wrong, not trying to poke at your info. Just trying to understand


----------



## Chris-PA (Feb 21, 2013)

half_full said:


> great info on the Poulan stuff. One question, the 2550 is listed in the 2250 and 2500 sections. Is this a typo or a model year change?
> Don't get me wrong, not trying to poke at your info. Just trying to understand


Yup, that's a typo, thanks for finding it! Now, I guess I will change history and correct the original post just so someone who runs across it gets the right info.

Did they need so many model numbers of the same couple of saws? Heck, even the lower displacement versions often had the same 42cc engine in them.


----------



## Brian B. (Feb 21, 2013)

This site rocks!!


----------



## Jeff Lary (Feb 21, 2013)

My nephew has 2 W.T'S in the barn maybe I otta go get see if I can fix em up? In the mean time I would like to see some video of a modded one in the cut Jeff


----------



## Brian B. (Feb 21, 2013)

Most of the videos I have viewed don't do WT justice because the guy is obviously not running a skip/chisel chain.


----------



## mattthompson (Feb 21, 2013)

MostShady1 said:


> Ask and ye shall receive!!!



That's exactly where my clutch cover broke at, I did the same fix on mine.


----------



## Chris-PA (Feb 21, 2013)

With the box of Wild Thing parts *diggers_dad* just sent me I think it's time to see what I can get out of one of these. I've been putting together a degree wheel so I can do this right. Just the thing for February cabin fever - well, the barn is not heated.........


----------



## kmcinms (Feb 21, 2013)

screamin350 said:


> Anyone have an updated link for that spike?



That link still worked for me. If it doesn't, try this one:

Poulan 2375 Wildthing Chainsaw Bucking Spike Spur Other Poulan Models Listed | eBay

I just used the dog that bolts under the bar nuts, working great for 21 years so far. :msp_thumbup: :chainsawguy:


----------



## kmcinms (Feb 21, 2013)

Same thing here

Husqvarna 36 136 41 141 Chainsaw OEM Spike Tree Bumper 5300143 81 New OD | eBay


----------



## redunshee (Feb 22, 2013)

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> With the box of Wild Thing parts *diggers_dad* just sent me I think it's time to see what I can get out of one of these. I've been putting together a degree wheel so I can do this right. Just the thing for February cabin fever - well, the barn is not heated.........



Well a while back I got a Brad Snelling ported 4018 strato. This is one screaming saw. Very loud as well with the muff mod. Cuts well beyond its size.
Bob


----------



## leecopland (Mar 10, 2013)

*engine swap*

Hi Folks,

Great thread, learning lots. Can I swap in a pro 220 motor into my 2550t Poulan? I need a new cylinder and piston due to a snap ring coming off after a rebuild.

2nd question: I was taking apart a 3314 to replace the P&C when I inadvertently undid the chain brake, which then blew apart sending bits in several directions. Any info available on how this item goes back together? I know these are inferior big box store saws but still useful tools. Looking forward to all and any help offered. One day I'll get a real Poulan as I seem to have picked up CAD.



Many thanks,

Lee

PS re-posted from Poulan thread


----------



## Chris-PA (Mar 10, 2013)

leecopland said:


> Hi Folks,
> 
> Great thread, learning lots. Can I swap in a pro 220 motor into my 2550t Poulan? I need a new cylinder and piston due to a snap ring coming off after a rebuild.
> 
> ...


That engine should drop right in - one of the nice things about these. This one is a PP262 with an old engine from a 42cc Craftsman and some bits from a Wild Thing:


----------



## cobey (Mar 10, 2013)

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> I'm going to re-post this here because people invariably confuse the different Poulan models:
> 
> <blockquote>This is what I've learned about the older plastic Poulan saws – by older I mean pre-strato engines. There are similar Craftsman versions of many of these (not the Husqvarna), which sometimes have slightly different mix of features.
> 
> ...


 thanks for the info, love these little saws, i think im gonna try some port work on one  my little 260 is really running strong with just the tune and muffler mod


----------



## vintage red saw (Mar 12, 2013)

*thats so funny*

I too have one of the craftsman versions it's been running fairly hard for over ten years and always ran good. Just last night I ported polished and modified the muffler I think it helped but noise doesn't tell me if it really has any more power. After running my 52 and 70e's it just feels small anyway.


----------



## Chris-PA (Mar 12, 2013)

vintage red saw said:


> I too have one of the craftsman versions it's been running fairly hard for over ten years and always ran good. Just last night I ported polished and modified the muffler I think it helped but noise doesn't tell me if it really has any more power. After running my 52 and 70e's it just feels small anyway.


Welcome to the madness! Give it a little bit of spark advance too, it makes a difference in how they pull.

I have another thread going about a 42cc I built, but I'll cross post here about the differences I found on the later non-strato 42cc cylinders. The have larger combustion chambers, lower exhaust ports and lower volume transfer runners. I think the intake is higher too but I'm not sure about that. I do not know the cut over date yet, but I'm guessing it was when the switched to the newer style mufflers. Maybe 2003 or 2004. Anyway, if you're going to play with a non-strato version it would be better to start with the older style engine. I just did one with the later style and it certainly runs well, but I think the older engines have more potential.


----------



## Brian B. (Mar 12, 2013)

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> Welcome to the madness! Give it a little bit of spark advance too, it makes a difference in how they pull.
> 
> I have another thread going about a 42cc I built, but I'll cross post here about the differences I found on the later non-strato 42cc cylinders. The have larger combustion chambers, lower exhaust ports and lower volume transfer runners. I think the intake is higher too but I'm not sure about that. I do not know the cut over date yet, but I'm guessing it was when the switched to the newer style mufflers. Maybe 2003 or 2004. Anyway, if you're going to play with a non-strato version it would be better to start with the older style engine. I just did one with the later style and it certainly runs well, but I think the older engines have more potential.



Would a brand new PP3314 Wood Shark be a strato? I'm debating buying one brand new.


----------



## Chris-PA (Mar 12, 2013)

Brian B. said:


> Would a brand new PP3314 Wood Shark be a strato? I'm debating buying one brand new.


I'm pretty sure they all are, but I've never looked closely at one. I found an IPL for a Poulan 3314 and it showed a two butterfly carb, so that is strato.


----------



## rms61moparman (Mar 12, 2013)

Brian B. said:


> Would a brand new PP3314 Wood Shark be a strato? I'm debating buying one brand new.






Yes they are!


Mike


----------



## leecopland (Mar 13, 2013)

*3314 chain brake*



rms61moparman said:


> Yes they are!
> 
> 
> Mike



Does anyone know of any instructions for putting the chain brake back together? Mine blew apart when I was dis-assembling mine for a rebuild.

Many thanks,

Lee


----------



## Jeff Lary (Mar 13, 2013)

not to horn in but what exactly is a strato ?


----------



## Chris-PA (Mar 13, 2013)

Jeff Lary said:


> not to horn in but what exactly is a strato ?


http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/65949.htm

Basically a system to address the fundamental problem with 2-strokes, where a portion of each incoming fuel/air charge gets blown out the exhaust port unburned. Strato fills the transfer runners with filtered air (no fuel) so what gets blown out the exhaust is mostly just air with no fuel.


----------



## Jeff Lary (Mar 15, 2013)

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/65949.htm
> 
> Basically a system to address the fundamental problem with 2-strokes, where a portion of each incoming fuel/air charge gets blown out the exhaust port unburned. Strato fills the transfer runners with filtered air (no fuel) so what gets blown out the exhaust is mostly just air with no fuel.



Thanks I think i get it have a good weekend.


----------



## leecopland (Mar 15, 2013)

*Chromed piston or bore*

I'm confused with the chrome aspects of Poulan saws, ie some have chromed pistons and some seem to have chromed cylinders.

Questions
1. I'm guessing that an engine can only have one of these chromed either piston or cylinder.

2. If that is true what would happen if both were chromed?

#. It seems to me that an un-chromed, aluminum or magnesium, cylinder would not last long with a steel ringed piston flying up and down.

Please someone put me out of my misery.

Thanks,

Lee:msp_confused:


----------



## Eccentric (Mar 15, 2013)

leecopland said:


> I'm confused with the chrome aspects of Poulan saws, ie some have chromed pistons and some seem to have chromed cylinders.
> 
> Questions
> 1. I'm guessing that an engine can only have one of these chromed either piston or cylinder.
> ...



If both surfaces (bore and piston) were chromed, the chrome plating would gall and peel/fail in short order. I share your thought that having the bore (which has the rings riding up and down on) bare, while having the piston (which is supposed to 'float' on a film of oil) chromed seems backwards and a bad idea. However, at least on these Poulans it seems to work very well. The many thousands of Poulan Micro series, Poulan 3400/3800 saws, Poulan weedeaters and blowers, and WT type saws run and last quite well with this arrangement. The lawnmower engines of the 1970's and 1980's with this setup didn't work as well in my experience. 

I prefer chromed bores (or iron/steel liners) in chainsaws, but can't really say much bad about the chromed piston saws. My only real complaint with them is that it's harder to make an accurate assessment of the condition of the cylinder of these engines by peaking through the exhaust port. The chrome on the piston is quite durable, and will look fine and dandy even when the cylinder has been roached. Much easier to see (at a glance) when things are FUBAR with the chromed bore/bare piston engines....


----------



## Chris-PA (Mar 15, 2013)

See my post above (http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/117370-2.htm#post4172225) 

What I didn't say is that what I called the Poulan 2250 family is available both ways - the Poulan Pro versions are chromed bore while the Poulan versions are chromed piston. I believe the chromed piston versions have Nikasil bores, but I'm not sure. I have not found them to be as durable.


----------



## Eccentric (Mar 15, 2013)

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> See my post above (http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/117370-2.htm#post4172225)
> 
> What I didn't say is that what I called the Poulan 2250 family is available both ways - the Poulan Pro versions are chromed bore while the Poulan versions are chromed piston. I believe the chromed piston versions have Nikasil bores, but I'm not sure. I have not found them to be as durable.



The chromed piston saws do not have Nikasil bores. The bores are bare aluminum with a high silicon content IIRC.


----------



## Chris-PA (Mar 15, 2013)

Eccentric said:


> The chromed piston saws do not have Nikasil bores. The bores are bare aluminum with a high silicon content IIRC.


Thanks - I wondered about that.


----------



## Eccentric (Mar 15, 2013)

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> Thanks - I wondered about that.



I went to a Briggs and Stratton school in the early 1980's. They referred to the bores in their 'lightweight' engines as "high silica content alluminum" and said the hard surface was something like .020" thick IIRC (and beyond that the cylinder was 'soft' aluminum). Funny thing is, Briggs sold oversize pistons for some of these engines. They were only .004" or .005" oversize IIRC. The idea was to open up the bore that small amount using an expanding three stone hone. I only did that once (on an 8HP horizontal shaft Briggs on a rototiller). Wasn't too impressed with the results....


----------



## old 040 (Nov 24, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> I'm going to re-post this here because people invariably confuse the different Poulan models:
> 
> <blockquote>This is what I've learned about the older plastic Poulan saws – by older I mean pre-strato engines. There are similar Craftsman versions of many of these (not the Husqvarna), which sometimes have slightly different mix of features.
> 
> ...



hmmm.......sure looks like this thang has AV.....


----------



## redunshee (Nov 24, 2015)

Your right. The 2375 Wildthing was not a strato saw whereas the 4018 series was.


----------



## kwhite87 (Nov 25, 2015)

I tried one of these out for my first porting try. They are right. That saw cuts twice as fast as before. We will see how long it lasts but its a mean s.o.b


----------



## John Walsh (Oct 26, 2019)

I just love this site! I'm a hot-rodder from way back. I just picked up 2 Poulans and a hard case for $30 from a gentleman from Facebook Marketplace One saw, a 2375 Wild thing, was complete except the owner tried to replace fuel lines unsuccessfully. The other saw is a damaged (looks like tree felled on it) 4218AVX parts saw, which had great compression but damaged top cover and handle, no bar/chain or sprocket cover. Some interesting things about the Wild Thing are that there was a steel insert in the exhaust port, which I removed. The port looks much larger without it. I also did a mild muffler mod since the saw was disassembled far enough to make it pretty easy. Used a straight blade screwdriver twisted in the two rear outlet ports to enlarge them and drilled out the holes in the internal baffle with a 15/64" drill bit. Unfortunately, it looked like the PO tried to force the larger of the two tank fuel lines in, resulting in some damage to the "donut" molded into the top of the hole. I was able to get the saw running in three pulls and it cuts like a SOB. Much better than my older Wild Thing. I have some questions about this newer Wild Thing and some observations about modding saws, particularly these cheap Poulans.

QUESTIONS: 1) This newer WT has a different carb/filter arrangement than my older WT. The older one had a "Pac man" shaped filter housing with a felt filter. The newer one has a different filter housing (think rectangle with top side shorter than bottom)and a foam filter. In the box of parts given to me, there was no cover over the foam filter like my other WT with the felt filter has. Should there be one? If there should be, does anyone have one to sell to me?
2) The older WT has a working chain brake, but the newer WT has a chain brake handle that isn't connected to anything and doesn't look like it ever was. I took sprocket cover off when I found CB handle wouldn't move. WTF? Can one be added? Parts saw has no sprocket cover or CB handle to pirate.
3) The saw leaked gas out of the larger tank hole when I got it running, so I was going to ask posters if they had a fix in mind (remember, hole was boogered a bit). I was going to use a 2 part epoxy at hole/fuel line, but the next day leakage seems to have stopped or been negligible, which I attribute to fuel line conforming to damage, sealing off the leak. If it had continued leaking, any ideas?

OBSERVATIONS: As a new member,I obviously haven't seen even a good amount of the hot-rodding saws posts, but I haven't run across anyone maximizing the stock carbs. In the old days we would disassemble throttle plate and file a round cross section throttle shaft into an airfoil shaped cross section (with throttle fully open), and remove any protruding threads on the plate screw. If this is on other posts, forgive me my newby status. If anyone wants to do this mod, be careful! The throttle plate is precision ground to only fit one way. Often the hardest part of the mod is getting the plate screw backed out, as some manufacturers stake the end of the screw to keep it in place. When reassembling, use red loctite to keep screw in place. If you ever need to remove it, a soldering iron on the screw will melt the loctite.


----------



## Yotaismygame (Oct 26, 2019)

What were hot rodders from way back doing to saws?


----------



## Huskybill (Oct 26, 2019)

Gave my son a new wildthing he ran it, beating the snots out of it for 25 years using left over maxima super m dirtbike gas. It’s still running today.

Any two stroke can be modded. I took a 71 suzuki ts125 piston ported and trimmed 1/8” from the piston skirt. It was beating newer Kawasaki kx80’s in the straights. A kid on a 80 complained to his dad that old bike just beat me. The dad grunted that’s a motorcycle. It’s a antique dual sport. Hearing that makes me wish I ported the cylinder. Having 125 cc is 125 cc no matter how old.


----------



## John Walsh (Oct 26, 2019)

Yotaismygame said:


> What were hot rodders from way back doing to saws?


Saws were not even on the radar. My favorite 2-stroke was a 1979 Yamaha RD400F. With expansion chambers and bored carbs, shaved heads, it would regularly spank 750 4-stroke sport bikes of the period


Huskybill said:


> Gave my son a new wildthing he ran it, beating the snots out of it for 25 years using left over maxima super m dirtbike gas. It’s still running today.
> 
> Any two stroke can be modded. I took a 71 suzuki ts125 piston ported and trimmed 1/8” from the piston skirt. It was beating newer Kawasaki kx80’s in the straights. A kid on a 80 complained to his dad that old bike just beat me. The dad grunted that’s a motorcycle. It’s a antique dual sport. Hearing that makes me wish I ported the cylinder. Having 125 cc is 125 cc no matter how old.



My used WT was a $50 purchase 20? years ago and just wont quit. Went thru numerous chains and 3 or 4 bars, still keeps my outdoor woodburning furnace fed to this day. Muffler modded the non-runner WT I recently bought and it seems to cut even better than the older WT. Love me some saws!


----------



## cedarhollow (Oct 26, 2019)

not for nothing but i had a pair of wild things, and i was a pulling pro by the time i got them things started, i gave them away and got into stihl's


----------



## John Walsh (Oct 26, 2019)

cedarhollow said:


> not for nothing but i had a pair of wild things, and i was a pulling pro by the time i got them things started, i gave them away and got into stihl's





cedarhollow said:


> not for nothing but i had a pair of wild things, and i was a pulling pro by the time i got them things started, i gave them away and got into stihl's


Primer bulb pushed 3-4x, choke on full, first pull it pops, choke off or half, throttle pushed open with my toe, screaming saw on 2nd, or at most 3rd pull, every time


----------

