# Demoralized and a little embarresed, oil filter stuck



## gasman (Jul 7, 2008)

I was afraid to post this because I feel like I should have known better, but maybe someone can help.

I was changing the oil filter on my PU and it is just stuck. Does anyone have any ideas for getting it off. I first tried the hexagon thing that fits on a ratchet. It slipped repeatedly, then I tried a metal stap wrench couldn't get it with that either. Then I had A pliers type wrench with small teeth that's supposed to work on all filters. Well I guess I got impatient and ending up ripping the filter, but I still couldn't get it off. So I took a large screwdriver and jammed it through the filter and banged it with a hammer. It ripped the filter really good. But still the filter is stuck. Then I took my wifes car to work swearing and feeling like an idiot. I'm hoping tommorrow when the motor is cool it might come off. Any suggestions. My wife thinks it's hillarious. "Don't worry honey you fix more things than you break." Somebody please help me.:help:

Righty tighty,lefty loosy


----------



## PA Plumber (Jul 7, 2008)

I had this happen to me many years ago. One thing comes to mind... Messy!

I believe I ended up borrowing a rubber strap wrench, made sure the metal left was clean, and it turned off. Of course, had some nice busted nuckles to go with the learning experience.

BTW, yep, lefty loosey, righty tighty. (Except on LP gas water heater burner tube connector nuts, some clutch assemblies and certain other applications.)


----------



## 2000ssm6 (Jul 7, 2008)

Straps are great if the surface is clean....

Try a LARGE pair of channel locks, then a chain type strap that can get some traction on the oily filter, get up to the base(top) and turn like hell. If you can cut the base/o-ring with some dikes, that will relieve all the pressure holding it on. Just like PA said, you may have some **** up-ed hands in the end.


----------



## cjk (Jul 7, 2008)

This may be too late for you but maybe you can use it next time. 

Use a stamped metal filter "socket" and if it slips, screw it to the filter with sheet metal screws and turn that sucker off. 

The "sockets" are cheep, less than $5. 

I havent had to use this yet but have heard it works great from a motorcycle mechanic. 

Good luck. I know how it is when the simplest thing turns into a big project. I think its where wise old men come from. 

Forgot to add, make sure you remove the old rubber seal and lube the new one.


----------



## DanManofStihl (Jul 7, 2008)

Is it easily accessiable I would get a screw driver and hit it through and then turn the screw driver thats how I used to get the tight ones off. Now I use a chain strap.


----------



## PA Plumber (Jul 7, 2008)

DanManofStihl said:


> Is it easily accessiable I would get a screw driver and hit it through and then turn the screw driver thats how I used to get the tight ones off. Now I use a chain strap.



That's what got me into the extremely educational mess I mentioned ealier in this thread.

I have used large channel locks and filter straps/wrenches. No more screwdrivers, though.


----------



## gasman (Jul 7, 2008)

DanManofStihl said:


> Is it easily accessiable I would get a screw driver and hit it through and then turn the screw driver



Not very. I have about 1/8th turn rotational ability from the top. Nothing at all from below. Getting a wrench at the base of the filter is nearly impossible. But I might be able to break the seal with a chisel and side cutter. 

I tried the screwdriver but was only able to get one hand on it. Actually now that I think of it, maybe I could put a rope around the backside end of the screwdriver that I can't see. Then have someone pull up on the rope while I push down the screwdriver handle.

I think I'll try to break the seal first. If I can do it without scarring the filter seat on the engine. Does that seem to be a good idea? I'm afraid to rip up the filter too much more because it will probably end up cutting me, since the access is hard.


----------



## ohio03trdtaco (Jul 7, 2008)

Screwdriver threw the filter only works on a good filter, a thin cheap filter will just keep ripping and make life harder. Strap type oil filter wrenches have always worked for me. Might I ask what this filer is on?


----------



## gasman (Jul 7, 2008)

ohio03trdtaco said:


> Screwdriver threw the filter only works on a good filter, a thin cheap filter will just keep ripping and make life harder. Strap type oil filter wrenches have always worked for me. Might I ask what this filer is on?



02 Tundra V8


----------



## ohio03trdtaco (Jul 7, 2008)

Got a 02 Tundra v8 4x4 filter is a little hard to get to but not bad. I alway get it from the top and get oil all over the skid plate. :censored: I want to say if I wasn't that lazy the filter would be pretty open from the bottom. I haven't had to wrench the filter yet though. Try a rubber / latex glove it gives you quite a bit more grip. Other than that a smaller rubber strap wrench might work.


----------



## cjk (Jul 7, 2008)

My buddy takes his skid plate off every oil change(01Tundra?). Its only 4 bolts and he says its less messy that way. Maybe that will give you access. On my 03 I havent had it off yet and get oil drips for a while after a change. Im planning on cutting a hole in the skid plate to make removal unnecessary.


----------



## gasman (Jul 7, 2008)

I have been routinely throwing an old towel in the skid plate to catch the oil that spills. I have free access to a supply of towels that would be thrown out otherwise. I never had this happen before. Last time I changed the oil it dripped a little, when I went back to tighten it, I guess I overdid it. I'm sure I oiled the ring first, but I bet I overtightened it because I was in a hurry and it had already leaked once. 

Well I guess I have enough ideas to keep me busy awhile but I'll take anymore.


----------



## Frank Boyer (Jul 7, 2008)

They make a nylon strap tool that works with a 1/2" drive ratchet. It looks like a 5" piece of 3/4" square tubing with 1" webbing on one end. It has a 1/2" square hole for a ratchet or extension on the other end. I have all types of filter wrenches and that one works the best with limited access filters that are very tight.


----------



## PA Plumber (Jul 7, 2008)

I have a Tundra. Change the oil every 5 to 6 thousand miles.

Takes about 25 minutes to do the oil change. That includes pulling the front brush protector and skid plate. 6 bolts total and quite quick with a ratchet.

Sure makes for an easier and cleaner job. No oil dripping and easy to access the filter.


----------



## LarryTheCableGuy (Jul 8, 2008)

Another Tundra guy here. Life is easy if you just drop the skid plate.

 

.


----------



## spacemule (Jul 8, 2008)

As cheap as oil changes are, I quit doing the myself some time ago. However, when I used to change my oil, I never went more than about half as tight as I could get with bare hands. There's no need, and it always takes 10 times more effort to remove than to put on. 

I would suggest an extra large pair of channel locks or a small pipe wrench, if you can get at it from the side.


----------



## PA Plumber (Jul 8, 2008)

I don't know how involved it is to pull the skid plate on your Tundra; Might be worth it now.


----------



## gasman (Jul 8, 2008)

PA Plumber said:


> I don't know how involved it is to pull the skid plate on your Tundra; Might be worth it now.




Done!! Eight screws to take off the skidplate. The ninth was missing most likely due to a previous oil change. The plastic flap that attaches to the side of the skidplate under the filter had the corners cut off by someone. Clearly to facilitate oil changes. I bought the truck used 4 years ago.

I would never have gotten it off from above. From below it took several attempts with everything I had. Granted I was lying on my back with a relatively short lever arm. Channel lock did the trick.

Space there is probably no good reason for me to do any of the projects that I do.


----------



## rb_in_va (Jul 8, 2008)

spacemule said:


> As cheap as oil changes are, I quit doing the myself some time ago.



True! The last oil change I did was on my F-150. I spent 30 minutes at the parts store, 20 minutes draining the oil, removing the old filter, and spilling oil on the driveway. Then I realized my drain plug gasket was bad, so I drove back to the parts store to get a new one, another 30 minutes. Then another 20 minutes putting it all back together an refilling with oil. I spent probably $20 on materials, and saved $8. An hour and 40 minutes of my time is worth more than $8!


----------



## Wirenut2266 (Aug 21, 2008)

yeh: Worse case, drive that screwdriver through it. I have done same with huge metal punch. Also, if you dare, SAW-ZUM-ALL.:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## omegajim (Aug 21, 2008)

they tell you not to overtighten because that rubber gasket will swell in the presence of oil. Something like 20 - 30 %, partially due to the cheap grade of rubber they use (it is a disposable filter after all) and the fact that nearly any rubber will swell some in the presence of oil.


----------



## rb_in_va (Aug 30, 2009)

Ethan, I was just trying to unscrew the oil filter on my van today. The motor was still hot and the filter bent really easily so I stopped and decided to wait till it cools off. Was the motor on your truck hot (or even warm) when you tried removing it?


----------



## oldsaw (Sep 5, 2009)

spacemule said:


> As cheap as oil changes are, I quit doing the myself some time ago. However, when I used to change my oil, I never went more than about half as tight as I could get with bare hands. There's no need, and it always takes 10 times more effort to remove than to put on.
> 
> I would suggest an extra large pair of channel locks or a small pipe wrench, if you can get at it from the side.



I used to do that too, but found out I was paying them for full synthetic and getting synthetic blend, they kept losing screws to my belly pan and that fell off in the middle of the highway, and they lost my wheel key. When my engine sludged up, I quit letting someone else change my oil. Too expensive.

I'm getting to the point I don't let too many people work on my cars, seems there is always more work for me to do when they are done.

Mark


----------



## omegajim (Sep 5, 2009)

> I'm getting to the point I don't let too many people work on my cars, seems there is always more work for me to do when they are done.



it's called "aggravation" and the appropriate answer is

"the aggravation" of letting grease monkeys ##### with my car isn't worth saving a couple of dollars over the long run.

and nobody touches the bike; or very, very bad things happen to them.

been changing oil since I was 10.

and, amen brother.


----------



## treemandan (Sep 5, 2009)

*Don't be afraid*

This won't hurt a bit









That is how you do it.


----------



## treemandan (Sep 7, 2009)

And Yes, I am serious. I'll take about 1 second.


----------



## rb_in_va (Sep 8, 2009)

treemandan said:


> And Yes, I am serious. I'll take about 1 second.



You change the oil with that?


----------



## treemandan (Sep 8, 2009)

rb_in_va said:


> You change the oil with that?



Basically if you get the chisel at the base if the filter, aim it to spin the filter off, you can gently burp the gun and the impact will loosen the filter.
It works on rounded bolt heads too. Of course you have to be careful but it works great for this application if the filter is really buggered up. If you don't have an air hammer you can use a regular chisel and hammer. Really, it works very well. I have done it alot just be careful.

I told this guy once I had a 8G winch I used to pull trees over. He said he didn't think that much force was good to use. Well, I don't use all 8G's all the time.


----------



## garmar (Sep 8, 2009)

I bought a 1990 Beretta in 1995 and the filter had been put on with a wrench instead of hand-tight like I do it. I went though this very nightmare. This has never happened to a car that I put a filter on. It has to be that some of these greasemonkeys think a filter wrench is to put 'em *on*. 

I ended up using sheetmetal screws and washers to attach a length of chain so I could lever the :censored: thing off with a screwdriver.


----------



## FELLNORTH (Sep 8, 2009)

i had this problem on my mustang when i first got, the car was stored in a barn for 20 plus years.... its not the threads that are sticking, its the gasket... i endded up prying between the blok and the filter to loosen the bond... came right off.
good luck


----------



## scotclayshooter (Sep 8, 2009)

ohio03trdtaco said:


> Got a 02 Tundra v8 4x4 filter is a little hard to get to but not bad. I alway get it from the top and get oil all over the skid plate. :censored: I want to say if I wasn't that lazy the filter would be pretty open from the bottom. I haven't had to wrench the filter yet though. Try a rubber / latex glove it gives you quite a bit more grip. Other than that a smaller rubber strap wrench might work.



I have used a shhet of sandpaper folded in half so the sandpaper gripps the filter and your hand at the same time.

But i doubt its going to come off that way if the wrenches didnt work.

Now i was warned many years ago about using the screwdriver trick as broken parts of the filter could end up in the system.


----------



## ts39136 (Sep 11, 2009)

This is what I use... Again, too late for you. It grabs into the filter, the tighter you turn, the tighter it gets. sears.







Maybe try some heat??? Might be kind of dangerous, but if it's been sitting for a while, most of the oil should be dripped off. Nevermind....

:Eye:...Try a chisel. Use the chisel on the base plate from the side of the filter, if you can, and point it in the direction you want to turn. Make a notch for it by hammering it once or twice straight on, then move the chisel and strike at an angle to make it turn. That makes a cheap impact wrench in a fix. Pound it hard 50 or 100 times even if it's not moving.:deadhorse:


----------

