# Best splitting maul



## Split this! (Oct 25, 2009)

Well I'm thinking about getting a new splitting maul, I have a splitter that I built myself, but it's horizontal only, and a lot of times, the rounds are to heavy to lift up into the splitter! I thought about making the splitter vertical also when I was in the planning stage, but I rented one of those once and almost wiped my back out trying to get the rounds under the splitter!! I also looked into one of those lifting set ups that utilize the hydraulic cylinder, but that seems to be a lot more cost. What I do now is cross cut the round with my chainsaw (Husquvarna 55 Rancher) About 2 inches deep, then use my wedge and the maul to work it into manageable sizes. I don't mind using the maul, I split wood by hand for many years and I like the exercise! I'm the around about style swinger, I use an 8lb with fiberglass handle now. I thought about one of those 12lb red ones with the pie shaped head, but at 52 years old, I'm thinking that may be a bit heavy. I have seen some postings on this site about Fiskars, do they have a shortened handle with an extremely sharp edge? My buddy gave me a gift certificate to Home Depot for my BD, but I couldn't find anything there that struck my fancy. I thought if I wanted some ideas, this would be the place to find some, lots of great info. on this site, so let me know what your opinions are. Thanks


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## biggenius29 (Oct 25, 2009)

I like my Fiskars.


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## mattmc2003 (Oct 25, 2009)

Go look around for an OLD 6lb maul, axe eye wood handle. It can't be beat. Not one that has a very long, narrow point. Needs to be broad towards the tip or it will stick. Ive never found anything that works any better.


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## nickg (Oct 25, 2009)

Try the Fiskers..


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## Qsky (Oct 25, 2009)

Try the 4 lb Fiskars. It's an amazing tool. And wont tire you out like the heavier mauls. I split 24 rows, each 22ft long, and four feet high, all oak, and never used a wedge.


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## A. Stanton (Oct 26, 2009)

Split,
If you get a maul with a wooden handle, be sure to put one on these puppies on it. I had the same handle on my maul for 25 years using one of these handle savers.


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## Streblerm (Oct 26, 2009)

*I agree on the Fiskars 4#*

I have had my 8# maul with a fiberglass handle for several years. I just went out and bought the Fiskars. WOW is all I have to say. I keep my trusty old maul handy because I keep thinking it will be superior to the Fiskars in some situation... I haven't found it yet.


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## AKKAMAAN (Oct 26, 2009)

*FSS, Fiskars Super Splitter*

Search forum for "fiskars super splitter" and read what has been said the last year.....FFS-er


Also watch my YouTube
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/WoAOYLMU1Wc&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/WoAOYLMU1Wc&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
umpkin2:


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## KodiakKen (Nov 3, 2009)

*I found one!!!*

I have an old craftsman 6 pounder that I fell in love with and couldn't find anything even close to it..Well I just got one in the mail tonight from labonville. It is made by coucil tool. here are some pics





top is a gransford bruks with an expensive Stihl logo on it..too narrow and sticks alot 
next down is the old trusty 8 pounder
third down is the new one 6 pound sledge eye(because I miss on occasion)
bottom the best but beat up and nobody makes a handle like it
















pay particular attention to the tiny little handle on the craftsman..funny feeling to start with but gets a lot easier with time. Hope this helps

oops forgot to mention..8 pound maul weighs 9 pounds..6 pound maul weighs 7 pounds and the craftsman weighs 6.6 pounds..I am excited. now need some more dam daylight to try it out..I hate time change


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## Rope2Win (Nov 3, 2009)

+1 on the Fiskars. I still love swinging my maul,but the Fiskars is so sweet!


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## Brushwacker (Nov 3, 2009)

Fiskars is by far the best all around in my book. I've probably used about 20 differant weights and designs in the last 30 years. The monster maul is the best maul I found to get through tough stuff but after using it quite a bit over 25 years it puts wear and tear on a body you can feel. To bad I didn't have or know abou the Fiskars until recently. It has its limits and takes some adjustments to use it safe and feel how effeciantly it splits average wood. It does well in fairly tough to split wood for me. I've had many 6 to 8 pound mauls , they all split wood , but I'll keep the Fiskars for my main splitter. Very tough wood I just as soon size them down with my chainsaw in most situations.


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## HOGBEAR (Nov 4, 2009)

*Video*



AKKAMAAN said:


> Search forum for "fiskars super splitter" and read what has been said the last year.....FFS-er
> 
> 
> Also watch my YouTube
> ...



That was the most simple but brilliant thing I've ever seen.


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## Split this! (Nov 4, 2009)

Well, Thanks all for the input and knowledge. My brother brought over his Fiskars on Saturday and we tried it on some real tough wood, it didn't do so well on the tough stuff, but man it kicked butt on the normal wood! It will take a little getting use to because of the weight difference, but I think I'm gonna try to find one of those handle savers for the old maul, and my brothers going to get me the Fiskars for Xmas! How's that for sweet? Thanks again


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## BlueRidgeMark (Nov 4, 2009)

Split this! said:


> I thought about making the splitter vertical also when I was in the planning stage, but I rented one of those once and almost wiped my back out trying to get the rounds under the splitter!!




Try one of those 1000# capacity hand trucks that Northern Tool sells. I move 40" oak rounds with that to my splitter, and split them with the splitter in the vertical position. No back strain.

Take a look at the size of the standing dead oak I bagged A man your age can handle the big stuff if he uses the right tools. That hand truck has given my terrific value for the money.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=1034884&postcount=16



Split this! said:


> What I do now is cross cut the round with my chainsaw (Husquvarna 55 Rancher) About 2 inches deep, then use my wedge and the maul to work it into manageable sizes.




That's what I did before I got my splitter. Worked fine. 8 pound sledge, some wedges, and a good place to stand. Once they were quartered or so, out comes the Monster Maul.




Split this! said:


> I thought about one of those 12lb red ones with the pie shaped head, but at 52 years old, I'm thinking that may be a bit heavy.



I've got a year on you, and I'm planning to get back to using mine, now that my elbow has healed. An injury is what persuaded me to get the splitter. I'm anxious to get back to that good workout.


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## banjobart (Nov 6, 2009)

8 pound maul with a fiberglass handle for me.

(Wood handles are fine, too. No monster maul steel handles for me, it aggravates arthritis in the hands.)

I bought two new 8 pounders this fall to replace a cracked old one; one from TSC and one from Northern Tool.

I tried the Fiskars but most of the wood I split just laughed at it and refused to budge.

I've been splitting by hand for 40 years.


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## Adirondack (Nov 6, 2009)

Fiskars Where do you get them? How much do they cost? Thanks


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## myzamboni (Nov 6, 2009)

Adirondack said:


> Fiskars Where do you get them? How much do they cost? Thanks



Baileys, Sears, e-Bay (~$40)


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## TreePointer (Nov 7, 2009)

I just bought another Fiskars SS Axe as as gift from AceHardewareOutlet.com. (Baileys was out of stock.)

$43 + free shipping (contiguous USA only).

In stock at the time of this posting.


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## HOGBEAR (Nov 7, 2009)

KodiakKen said:


> I have an old craftsman 6 pounder that I fell in love with and couldn't find anything even close to it..Well I just got one in the mail tonight from labonville. It is made by coucil tool. here are some pics
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 I agree this time keeps me from doing anything in the afternoon when I get home. Hard to bust wood in the dark:agree2:


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## hangnail (Nov 7, 2009)

I bought the sthil maul when i bought my 351. Once the paint wore off, it splits like a champ. The paint is super sticky. Handle length is perfect for me, at 5'10. 

No problems splitting those big maple rounds. I file it before I start, and it holds an edge very well.


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## woodsmoke (Nov 8, 2009)

Thirty years of splitting wood, lots of wood, and when using a maul not the Bilt Rite, I have settled on that Stihl maul. I've used a Monster Maul, Gerber, Gransfors Bruks, basic 6 & 8 pounders, etc. The Stihl is the best.


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## Patrick H (Nov 8, 2009)

This has been my favorite so far..






http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=147592-302-1217000&lpage=none


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## demographic (Nov 8, 2009)

woodsmoke said:


> Thirty years of splitting wood, lots of wood, and when using a maul not the Bilt Rite, I have settled on that Stihl maul. I've used a Monster Maul, Gerber, Gransfors Bruks, basic 6 & 8 pounders, etc. The Stihl is the best.



I have one of those Stihl mauls too and am pretty happy with it.


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## BigE (Nov 8, 2009)

TreePointer said:


> I just bought another Fiskars SS Axe as as gift from AceHardewareOutlet.com. (Baileys was out of stock.)



Try http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com and it will work a little better.


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## BigE (Nov 8, 2009)

Amazon has it as well:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BX1I7A
$38.52 with free shipping.

Edit:
Oops, above is the 2 pounder. The 4.5 pounder is almost $48
http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-7854-Splitting-28-Inch-Handle/dp/B00004SD7B/ref=pd_cp_hi_3


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## KodiakKen (Nov 8, 2009)

*mine is a gransford bruks*



woodsmoke said:


> Thirty years of splitting wood, lots of wood, and when using a maul not the Bilt Rite, I have settled on that Stihl maul. I've used a Monster Maul, Gerber, Gransfors Bruks, basic 6 & 8 pounders, etc. The Stihl is the best.



I don't know when you bought your maul but the one in my pics is a gransford bruks maul. Stihl has the sticker and gransford bruks makes the head..if you go to the gransford website..same exact thing except Stihl left out the handle protector and added their sticker


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## woodsmoke (Nov 9, 2009)

I think that Ox Head from Germany makes the mauls for Stihl. Ox Head makes great axes and mauls and has a splitting axe that is super for straight grained logs. You can't pound a wedge with the splitting axe as you can with the maul.
The Gransfors maul is an excellent tool just not as heavy as the Ox Head/Stihl maul.


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## HOGBEAR (Nov 9, 2009)

hangnail said:


> I bought the sthil maul when i bought my 351. Once the paint wore off, it splits like a champ. The paint is super sticky. Handle length is perfect for me, at 5'10.
> 
> No problems splitting those big maple rounds. I file it before I start, and it holds an edge very well.


 Looks like a good tool I may have to try one. What about the cost?


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## HOGBEAR (Nov 9, 2009)

Patrick H said:


> This has been my favorite so far..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 I have the same splitter, it does a good job but I liked my old one better, it had a slimmer handle rather than the round handle that the new model comes with.


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## HOGBEAR (Nov 9, 2009)

hangnail said:


> I bought the sthil maul when i bought my 351. Once the paint wore off, it splits like a champ. The paint is super sticky. Handle length is perfect for me, at 5'10.
> 
> No problems splitting those big maple rounds. I file it before I start, and it holds an edge very well.


 WOW! My local dealer wants 100.00 plus shipping and taxes.


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## howellhandmade (Nov 9, 2009)

HOGBEAR said:


> WOW! My local dealer wants 100.00 plus shipping and taxes.



Yeah, me, too. I was tempted to treat myself when the Stihl website showed the price at $86, but when I held it in my hand and looked at a solid C-note price I just couldn't do it. I wonder if there are different versions of it; the one in the store, the head looked smaller than the one in the pic with the 361. Perhaps a trick of the lens. In the hand, it looked like a big, short spike and I remember wondering if it would be likely to bury and stick. I split all my firewood by hand (about 9 cords split this past year) so it appeals to me to have THE best maul, and something that is handmade and will last forever would be nice, so these threads interest me. I reckon I'll have to try the Fiskars. The short handle concerns me (6'4") but I reckon it would excel at splitting kindling if nothing else, and at $40 I won't feel like such a chump if it doesn't become my favorite.

Jack


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## Marc (Nov 9, 2009)

Hardware store 6 lb-er. Holds up much better than the big box 8 lber my father bought... before I repaired is 6 lber for him.

Oddly, the 6 lb head I bought was made in Mexico... the Home Despot 8 lber was China. So far the Mexican seems to be much harder steel.


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## HOGBEAR (Nov 9, 2009)

howellhandmade said:


> Yeah, me, too. I was tempted to treat myself when the Stihl website showed the price at $86, but when I held it in my hand and looked at a solid C-note price I just couldn't do it. I wonder if there are different versions of it; the one in the store, the head looked smaller than the one in the pic with the 361. Perhaps a trick of the lens. In the hand, it looked like a big, short spike and I remember wondering if it would be likely to bury and stick. I split all my firewood by hand (about 9 cords split this past year) so it appeals to me to have THE best maul, and something that is handmade and will last forever would be nice, so these threads interest me. I reckon I'll have to try the Fiskars. The short handle concerns me (6'4") but I reckon it would excel at splitting kindling if nothing else, and at $40 I won't feel like such a chump if it doesn't become my favorite.
> 
> Jack


 I split quite a bit of wood for myself and also for my mama and daddy. The fiskers even with the short handle does a great job with very litle fatigue, the tru temper/ames version is also nice but the round handle causes some hand fatigue but you can control it well. I dont have a good maul but would like to get one but I cant choke down the price that they want for the higher end mauls or my wife might choke me. Either one of the axes above would get the job done well for under 60.00 bucks. If you decide to go fiskers make sure its the super splitter with the 4 1/4 pound head not the pro version which only has a 2 1/2 pound head I think.


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## Islander (Nov 9, 2009)

*Fiskars 4.25# SS for me*

Have to side with the majority here. The Fiskars super splitter is something special.

I have the red-handled Ames, and an old Craftsman, and the Fiskars is in a class all its own. Better control, less getting stuck, less launching splits to the side, and less fatigue overall. 

Just yesterday was splitting 20" ash rounds with the Fiskars. If I started by slabbing off the edges, every one split, and mostly on the first strike.

Fiskars is the surgical scalpel of wood splitting

The Ames is the utility knife,

8# Craftsman is a big butter knife...


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## Nonprophet (Nov 11, 2009)

Patrick H said:


> This has been my favorite so far..
> 
> 
> 
> ...



When I couldn't find a Fiskars SS locally, I tried one of these True Temper splitting axes--it sucked!! It rarely split on the first whack and then it got stuck something fierce!! I took that thing back ASAP and ordered the Fiskars SS from Amazon---10 times better! I'm 6'3" and while at first I was a little concerned about the (comparatively) shorter handle, I split on a 20" tall x 28" wide elm round with a tire on it, and it works great for me! In fact, even if they offered a longer handle I think I'd opt for the shorter one.........

Bailey's now carries the SS, $39.95 (w/out shipping) is the lowest price I've seen.

NP


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## Henry G. (Nov 11, 2009)

Another vote for the Fiskars. Its almost like magic, it splits so well. I have a few 36" plus pine rounds that are too heavy to lift, a few whacks with the Fiskars on the edge and now I have 4-6 chunks ready to load in the splitter. That thing is SHARP.


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## Patrick H (Nov 11, 2009)

Nonprophet said:


> When I couldn't find a Fiskars SS locally, I tried one of these True Temper splitting axes--it sucked!! It rarely split on the first whack and then it got stuck something fierce!! I took that thing back ASAP and ordered the Fiskars SS from Amazon---10 times better! I'm 6'3" and while at first I was a little concerned about the (comparatively) shorter handle, I split on a 20" tall x 28" wide elm round with a tire on it, and it works great for me! In fact, even if they offered a longer handle I think I'd opt for the shorter one.........
> 
> Bailey's now carries the SS, $39.95 (w/out shipping) is the lowest price I've seen.
> 
> NP



:shrug:
I don't know. Mine works well. I split about 5 1/2 cords a season with it..


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## BigE (Nov 12, 2009)

Just purchased my Fiskars from Acehardwareoutlet.com. Once I saw they took Paypal, it was a done deal. 

I've got two manual splitting devices right now - the standard 8lb maul that I normally use, and one that looks like this:
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(i5nkxpfleffqk4vgit5ykz45)/productDetails.aspx?SKU=1000026634

The one above I finally just stashed in my travel trailer. It works OK, but just doesn't have the weight to split the heavy stuff and tends to bounce off or get stuck. It works fine for splitting dry firewood at the camp site.

I also use this:
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(i5nkxpfleffqk4vgit5ykz45)/productDetails.aspx?SKU=998023150
when I get a piece that is too water logged to split right away. Works well on the 36" plus pieces as well. I've only got this style wedge stuck once, and that was in a piece of stump wood.

Of course, if I'm splitting a lot, I'll drag out my powered splitter, but sometimes it just isn't worth the effort, and for the first 30-60 minutes I can easily out pace it with my 8lb maul.


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## tjbier (Nov 12, 2009)

I had only an 8lb maul, then got the True Temper splitter and love it, so much lighter and I've not had problems with it. and not so dead tired after splitting with it...... I split mainly oak, maple, cherry.. 
But now I want to try the Fiskars?? :monkey:


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## BigE (Nov 18, 2009)

BigE said:


> Just purchased my Fiskars from Acehardwareoutlet.com. Once I saw they took Paypal, it was a done deal.



Caveat Emptor: When I purchased from Ace on the 12th, they said I should be receiving the axe on the 17th. I just got a note my email this morning saying they had shipped it this morning! To top it off, I won't be receiving it now until the 24th. Funny how the lowest price always has the slowest shipping time and the worst customer service. Bottom line: if you need to get the axe to actually use it soon, buy elsewhere.


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## AKKAMAAN (Nov 18, 2009)

BigE said:


> Caveat Emptor: When I purchased from Ace on the 12th, they said I should be receiving the axe on the 17th. I just got a note my email this morning saying they had shipped it this morning! To top it off, I won't be receiving it now until the 24th. Funny how the lowest price always has the slowest shipping time and the worst customer service. Bottom line: if you need to get the axe to actually use it soon, buy elsewhere.



You have to remember that Fiskars are selling A LOT OF AXES just now....They have a very hard time to keep up with the supply...I have had over 40 000+ viewers on my Youtube video the last 4 days....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoAOYLMU1Wc






People are going "Fiskars AKKAMAAN nuts" all over the world......


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## Woodcutteranon (Nov 18, 2009)

Akkamaan...what kind of round were you splitting in your Youtube video? Thanks


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## Henry G. (Nov 18, 2009)

Knotty pine is not so forgiving as that perfect straight grain hardwood but the Fiskars is still magic.


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## AKKAMAAN (Nov 18, 2009)

Woodcutteranon said:


> Akkamaan...what kind of round were you splitting in your Youtube video? Thanks



It is a Douglas Fir, cut a few weeks back, so it is green, pretty nice and straight grain, just a few knots...


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## r8ingbull (Nov 18, 2009)

BigE said:


> Caveat Emptor: When I purchased from Ace on the 12th, they said I should be receiving the axe on the 17th. I just got a note my email this morning saying they had shipped it this morning! To top it off, I won't be receiving it now until the 24th. Funny how the lowest price always has the slowest shipping time and the worst customer service. Bottom line: if you need to get the axe to actually use it soon, buy elsewhere.



Caveat Emptor: acehardwareoutlet.com is just a hardware store in New York. If you want the item from ACE Hardware, just call your local store and ask for it. If they don't have it in-stock, they can get it for you within 3 days.


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## HOGBEAR (Nov 19, 2009)

r8ingbull said:


> Caveat Emptor: acehardwareoutlet.com is just a hardware store in New York. If you want the item from ACE Hardware, just call your local store and ask for it. If they don't have it in-stock, they can get it for you within 3 days.



I had to go through Amazon because my local shops didn't want to go to the trouble to special order.


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## thefeckerwest (Feb 10, 2012)

In response to KodiakKen who demonstrated his mauls on the 11.4.2009, he refers to the Gransfors Bruks Maul with an expensive "Stihl" logo. Gransfors Bruks are very high quality tools. Each axe and maul head have the initials of the individual craftsman who forged them embedded in them, and furthermore Gransfors Bruk tools are expensive. You do pay for quality. The Stihl maul as shown, is clearly not a Gransfors Bruk product.


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## Rudedog (Feb 10, 2012)

thefeckerwest said:


> In response to KodiakKen who demonstrated his mauls on the 11.4.2009, he refers to the Gransfors Bruks Maul with an expensive "Stihl" logo. Gransfors Bruks are very high quality tools. Each axe and maul head have the initials of the individual craftsman who forged them embedded in them, and furthermore Gransfors Bruk tools are expensive. You do pay for quality. The Stihl maul as shown, is clearly not a Gransfors Bruk product.



I bought thier 5.5 lbs. splitting maul for $155.00 US. Great maul.


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## thefeckerwest (Feb 10, 2012)

*Gransfors Bruk Splitting Maul*

It appears to me that 5.5lbs. is a bit light and the handle a little short for heavy work, such as knotted wood and other hard to split stuff. I know that it is a quality tool, but what makes it special compared to, for instance, your average 6lb. or even 8lb maul? I am curious.


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## Rudedog (Feb 10, 2012)

Holds a great edge. I like the handle and the balance. It will not split everything.


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## cheeves (Feb 10, 2012)

I use an old 7 lb Stanley that a friend of mine got out of the dump many years ago. One of my most prized possessions! Have both a 6 and 8 lb Snow&Neally, but rarely use them. One great Maul!


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## KodiakKen (Jun 21, 2013)

*more research..this is an "oxhead" maul with an expensive "Stihl" sticker on it*

View attachment 301294
View attachment 301295
View attachment 301296
View attachment 301297


thefeckerwest said:


> In response to KodiakKen who demonstrated his mauls on the 11.4.2009, he refers to the Gransfors Bruks Maul with an expensive "Stihl" logo. Gransfors Bruks are very high quality tools. Each axe and maul head have the initials of the individual craftsman who forged them embedded in them, and furthermore Gransfors Bruk tools are expensive. You do pay for quality. The Stihl maul as shown, is clearly not a Gransfors Bruk product.




this has some german markings as you can see in the new pics. and there is an embedded stamp with letters of the crafter. Tried to see if they are made by the same company. Still not happy with it. The leading edge is too thin. It sticks like an axe. I never said it was poor quality or craftsmanship. Just didn't work for me as well as others. But being a Stihl nut. I had to have it. nuff said


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## BillNole (Jun 21, 2013)

Great thread-revival Ken! :msp_thumbup:


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## zogger (Jun 21, 2013)

cheeves said:


> I use an old 7 lb Stanley that a friend of mine got out of the dump many years ago. One of my most prized possessions! Have both a 6 and 8 lb Snow&Neally, but rarely use them. One great Maul!



Got any picherz?


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## ZeroLife (Jun 22, 2013)

Each maul or Splitting tool had it's place. I use the 6# or 16# maul if the round it's sitting on the ground. If you split through and hit a rock in the dirt with a heavy maul, the handle twistes out of your hand. The steel on a Fiskars is soft enough to divot if struck on a rock. I use the tough iron for breaking rounds up, Fiskars for finishing.


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## AKKAMAAN (Jun 22, 2013)

KodiakKen said:


> View attachment 301294
> View attachment 301295
> View attachment 301296
> View attachment 301297
> ...



Hi KodiakKen! I am interested in the problem you have with using that maul. Hope you do not mind if I ask you a question.

Where is your favorite "sweet spot" to crack open a 20" log with a maul? Lets say you are only given one shot at it!
I made it simple, just answer A,B,C,D,E,F,G or H. You can motivate your answer if you want.
I do not mind if others reply ply too, but then I might should have set up a poll in another thread. 

View attachment 301316


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## BillNole (Jun 22, 2013)

AKKAMAAN said:


> Hi KodiakKen! I am interested in the problem you have with using that maul. Hope you do not mind if I ask you a question.
> 
> Where is your favorite "sweet spot" to crack open a 20" log with a maul? Lets say you are only given one shot at it!
> I made it simple, just answer A,B,C,D,E,F,G or H. You can motivate your answer if you want.
> ...



Since you said you don't mind...

I'm not sure I know what you mean by "motivate" an answer, so I'll go the verbose route... 

On the first round, I'll almost always take at least one shot somewhere down the middle, depending on the grain and condition. After that, it depends on the results of the first strike, how long I've been at it and generally what's going on in life. There have been times when I've chosen to beat the living heck out of a round, just because it feels good and I needed to prove who was the boss. To me, or the round doesn't really matter I guess...

After that first strike, I most often will get a feel for the best option and go from there. Can't say it's any of the above as it just varies. Now, if I've been swinging at rounds from the same log and have noticed a pattern, I'll go with what has been working 9 out of 10 times with the odd one now and then being just because I am who I'yam...

I guess I'll go with "Z" for the moment.


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## zogger (Jun 22, 2013)

AKKAMAAN said:


> Hi KodiakKen! I am interested in the problem you have with using that maul. Hope you do not mind if I ask you a question.
> 
> Where is your favorite "sweet spot" to crack open a 20" log with a maul? Lets say you are only given one shot at it!
> I made it simple, just answer A,B,C,D,E,F,G or H. You can motivate your answer if you want.
> ...



20" diameter?

My answer is H, I go around from the outside on larger rounds.

I am starting to really like slabbing off thin wood with the bark, that piece dries faster (critical for wood that would get bugs in it like hickory or pine)(bugs don't like dry wood)(flat stuff good for the end stacking as well or a rain roof over the other wood), and all the remaining center wood dries faster as well, and bark off makes the rest of the round split easier.

I wondered where you were, your vid inspired me to get the fiskars, along with all the earlier commentary I read here. Had to order it, money well spent.


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## KodiakKen (Jun 22, 2013)

*oh my..I started something now!!*



AKKAMAAN said:


> Hi KodiakKen! I am interested in the problem you have with using that maul. Hope you do not mind if I ask you a question.
> 
> Where is your favorite "sweet spot" to crack open a 20" log with a maul? Lets say you are only given one shot at it!
> I made it simple, just answer A,B,C,D,E,F,G or H. You can motivate your answer if you want.
> ...




one crack..I would get out my hydraulic splitter and go down the middle. I don't have a problem using the maul. the leading edge is not tapered enough and it sticks a lot more than my other mauls. and for the one shot method..If I would only hit a piece of wood one time it would be too big for my stove. Furthermore it is a loaded question. what kind of wood? how green is it? straight grained? oak pine ash or maple I would hit "F" . kinda like asking how big the next fish will be that I catch. every round is different. cracks, grain, knots, where someone drove a spike into it to hang a birdhouse. too many variables for a one hit wonder. I would hit three across the middle. far. close. middle and usually have 2 halves..then work that. not saying my style is like anyone elses and I like to be unique. sometimes I might slab the outside.


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## zogger (Jun 22, 2013)

KodiakKen said:


> one crack..I would get out my hydraulic splitter and go down the middle. I don't have a problem using the maul. the leading edge is not tapered enough and it sticks a lot more than my other mauls. and for the one shot method..If I would only hit a piece of wood one time it would be too big for my stove. Furthermore it is a loaded question. what kind of wood? how green is it? straight grained? oak pine ash or maple I would hit "F" . kinda like asking how big the next fish will be that I catch. every round is different. cracks, grain, knots, where someone drove a spike into it to hang a birdhouse. too many variables for a one hit wonder. I would hit three across the middle. far. close. middle and usually have 2 halves..then work that. not saying my style is like anyone elses and I like to be unique. sometimes I might slab the outside.



I only go straight down the middle with rounds small enough they will go halves or quartered to size. Anything bigger I slab now. 

Now GIANT rounds, out in the field, cut a kerf and and then a good whack down the middle, to get to a size to be able to get them into the trailer. But splitting for keepsies, I prefer slabbing wherever possible. And I still slab those large ones once they are split to heftable size.


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## cheeves (Jun 22, 2013)

zogger said:


> Got any picherz?


You won't believe it Zog but that 7# Stanley and my 8# Snow&Neally were stolen out of the back of my truck last Feb during the week long power outage we had. A company called Pike that was up here from NC helping to restore power stole them. Even Verizon when they were here had a memo warning their employees about Pike stealing stuff! They cleared out of town before the cops nailed them! 
My wife went on Ebay and found me four old mauls from Oregon. Two were very similar to my 7# Stanley and I have them on handles and have used them this Spring. Work very well. Don't know the name! 
The secret with Mauls is to get a sharp point, not blunt, that widens. Maul needs to penetrate the round and spread the wood. 
What was that fabulous guy on You Tube? Was it Charlie Moore or something like that. Blacksmith that made his own mauls and beat those two guys on a hydraulic splitter! He's got the design!! He died I think, but his wife was selling some of his mauls! Love to have one. Wider than an axe with a weight welded to the back. Just as sharp though.


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## zogger (Jun 22, 2013)

cheeves said:


> You won't believe it Zog but that 7# Stanley and my 8# Snow&Neally were stolen out of the back of my truck last Feb during the week long power outage we had. A company called Pike that was up here from NC helping to restore power stole them. Even Verizon when they were here had a memo warning their employees about Pike stealing stuff! They cleared out of town before the cops nailed them!
> My wife went on Ebay and found me four old mauls from Oregon. Two were very similar to my 7# Stanley and I have them on handles and have used them this Spring. Work very well. Don't know the name!
> The secret with Mauls is to get a sharp point, not blunt, that widens. Maul needs to penetrate the round and spread the wood.
> What was that fabulous guy on You Tube? Was it Charlie Moore or something like that. Blacksmith that made his own mauls and beat those two guys on a hydraulic splitter! He's got the design!! He died I think, but his wife was selling some of his mauls! Love to have one. Wider than an axe with a weight welded to the back. Just as sharp though.



Yep, he's the guy (Tom Clark) that did the match trick in the video that I tried and did on the 6th swing. He did it with that custom splitting axe he built, I did it with the fiskars.

Long time ago I think it was stlooiefirewood said he might have had a lead on one of his axes, but nothing came of it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95Z2UXEFUIw


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## ReggieT (Jun 22, 2013)

zogger said:


> Yep, he's the guy (Tom Clark) that did the match trick in the video that I tried and did on the 6th swing. He did it with that custom splitting axe he built, I did it with the fiskars.
> 
> Long time ago I think it was stlooiefirewood said he might have had a lead on one of his axes, but nothing came of it.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95Z2UXEFUIw



Watched the video, quite impressive...is Tom still alive & kicking?


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## zogger (Jun 22, 2013)

ReggieT said:


> Watched the video, quite impressive...is Tom still alive & kicking?



Nope.


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## zogger (Jun 22, 2013)

ReggieT said:


> Watched the video, quite impressive...is Tom still alive & kicking?



My trophy...


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## AKKAMAAN (Jun 23, 2013)

KodiakKen said:


> one crack..I would get out my hydraulic splitter and go down the middle. I don't have a problem using the maul. the leading edge is not tapered enough and it sticks a lot more than my other mauls. and for the one shot method..If I would only hit a piece of wood one time it would be too big for my stove. Furthermore it is a loaded question. what kind of wood? how green is it? straight grained? oak pine ash or maple I would hit "F" . kinda like asking how big the next fish will be that I catch. every round is different. cracks, grain, knots, where someone drove a spike into it to hang a birdhouse. too many variables for a one hit wonder. I would hit three across the middle. far. close. middle and usually have 2 halves..then work that. not saying my style is like anyone elses and I like to be unique. sometimes I might slab the outside.


[video=youtube;c_U07ijVOsY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_U07ijVOsY[/video]


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## thefeckerwest (Jul 2, 2013)

AKKAMAAN said:


> Hi KodiakKen! I am interested in the problem you have with using that maul. Hope you do not mind if I ask you a question.
> 
> Where is your favorite "sweet spot" to crack open a 20" log with a maul? Lets say you are only given one shot at it!
> I made it simple, just answer A,B,C,D,E,F,G or H. You can motivate your answer if you want.
> ...



I hit it at 'D' assuming that it is the side nearest to me. That is the best chance of opening up the round.


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## RAW (Aug 20, 2013)

People are individuals, and what works for one may or may not work for the other. I have read this entire thread 3 times. Since my main heat source is wood and I burn 3-4 cords a season ( now that I bought a more efficient wood stove.) , and I split 90% of my wood with an 8 lb. maul. The idea of a splitting as fast, if not faster with less weight got my attention. The rave about the Fiskars x27 had me fired up. So yesterday Tuesday, August 20, 2013 I went out and purchased one. This morning couldn't come fast enough. Just as the sun was up, I grabbed my new Fiskars and the dog and headed out to where I had downed a couple of swamp maples I had cut into 16" lengths in late spring. These pieces were aprox. 27" in diameter all straight grain with no knots.some thing that with work my 8 lb. maul will do. So I took a shoulder wide stance, focused my eye 4'' in from the outside edge, bent my knees and raised the Fiskars as it reached head height I slid my right hand down to meet my left hand, straightened my knees and powered the X27 down into the wood. Well she made a little crease so I swung again another little crease. Repeatedly I tried again and again changing my stance and swing to no avail. So I figured I would head to the west a little and try it out on some red oak. After a few swings I was splitting the red oak. How ever not as easy as my 8 lb. maul. So this afternoon I returned the maul and said I was disappointed in it's performance. 

If you don't have or use a hydraulic splitter here are the rules to cutting and burning wood I live by:

1. Buy the most efficient wood burner you can. Means you have to cut less wood.
2. Use a 3/8" or .404 chain and keep it sharp.
3. Split when you fell the tree right then and there
4. Make sure you split it the way it grows
5. Smaller pieces make hotter fires. 90% of my wood is an average of 4". And it dries faster.
6. Keep the stuff off the ground. As you split it, throw it on pallets.

The above keeps wood splitting more efficient. The idea is to work smarter, not harder.


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## zogger (Aug 20, 2013)

RAW said:


> People are individuals, and what works for one may or may not work for the other. I have read this entire thread 3 times. Since my main heat source is wood and I burn 3-4 cords a season ( now that I bought a more efficient wood stove.) , and I split 90% of my wood with an 8 lb. maul. The idea of a splitting as fast, if not faster with less weight got my attention. The rave about the Fiskars x27 had me fired up. So yesterday Tuesday, August 20, 2013 I went out and purchased one. This morning couldn't come fast enough. Just as the sun was up, I grabbed my new Fiskars and the dog and headed out to where I had downed a couple of swamp maples I had cut into 16" lengths in late spring. These pieces were aprox. 27" in diameter all straight grain with no knots.some thing that with work my 8 lb. maul will do. So I took a shoulder wide stance, focused my eye 4'' in from the outside edge, bent my knees and raised the Fiskars as it reached head height I slid my right hand down to meet my left hand, straightened my knees and powered the X27 down into the wood. Well she made a little crease so I swung again another little crease. Repeatedly I tried again and again changing my stance and swing to no avail. So I figured I would head to the west a little and try it out on some red oak. After a few swings I was splitting the red oak. How ever not as easy as my 8 lb. maul. So this afternoon I returned the maul and said I was disappointed in it's performance.
> 
> If you don't have or use a hydraulic splitter here are the rules to cutting and burning wood I live by:
> 
> ...



My swing is different than that. My knees are bent and I am dropping my body at moment of impact. 

I honestly don't think one small session, with years and years of muscle memory with an 8lb maul can be overcome that easy.

I think..perhaps..all my earliest splitting was done with a generic limbing /chopping axe, not a maul. I only got into mauls much later. Years later...many many cords later. As such, I developed speed and focus with a very lightweight axe, which was easy to relearn with my original 28inch supersplitter. I have yet to try an x27 model, but will say, after hefting one, (first time today in fact as coincidences go), I don't like the axe shaped head and would prefer their original wedge shaped head. IF I was to purchase an x27 I would grind the top and bottom straight so it looked like a wedge. I like the longer handle, but not the head shape, and also noticed the factory edge was barely half as sharp as the factory edge came on the SS, and the teflon coating did not feel as slippery.

Besides that, I have to withold judgement, never put one to wood yet, but bet I could make it work, even leaving it stock.

Anyway, doesn't matter, your other stuff is right on and I agree with it.

Why the heck Fiskars won't at least *try* to sell the x39 in the USA is beyond me. That is the model I am way more interested in as an addition to the wood splitting fleet here.

Sorry it didn't work out for you, but, sounds like you get your wood busted, that's all that counts!


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## Brushwacker (Aug 21, 2013)

zogger said:


> My swing is different than that. My knees are bent and I am dropping my body at moment of impact.
> 
> I honestly don't think one small session, with years and years of muscle memory with an 8lb maul can be overcome that easy.
> 
> ...


 The original shaped head works way better for me. I tried the new 1 with the long handle and was disappointed. It just doesn't split as good. I wish they would put a long handle on the original splitting ax and i believe it would of improved it.
To me the Fiskars isn't powerful as most heavy mauls but the original has a great power to weight ratio and the shock to the body transfer through the handle is very little compared to what I was use to. Average straight grained wood here is where it shines and it will get through a modest knot fairly well but tougher splitting wood I prefer switching to an adequate tool to get the task done without over stressing myself. It would need to be dirt cheap before I' d buy the later design Fiskars because I doubt I'd use it much. The original, I wish I had another.


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## CR888 (Aug 21, 2013)

AKKAMAAN said:


> Hi KodiakKen! I am interested in the problem you have with using that maul. Hope you do not mind if I ask you a question.
> 
> Where is your favorite "sweet spot" to crack open a 20" log with a maul? Lets say you are only given one shot at it!
> I made it simple, just answer A,B,C,D,E,F,G or H. You can motivate your answer if you want.
> ...



I would hit H


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## BillNole (Aug 21, 2013)

Brushwacker said:


> The original shaped head works way better for me. I tried the new 1 with the long handle and was disappointed. It just doesn't split as good. I wish they would put a long handle on the original splitting ax and i believe it would of improved it.
> To me the Fiskars isn't powerful as most heavy mauls but the original has a great power to weight ratio and the shock to the body transfer through the handle is very little compared to what I was use to. Average straight grained wood here is where it shines and it will get through a modest knot fairly well but tougher splitting wood I prefer switching to an adequate tool to get the task done without over stressing myself. It would need to be dirt cheap before I' d buy the later design Fiskars because I doubt I'd use it much. The original, I wish I had another.



This is pretty much my take as well. I still use my older mauls depending on the wood, but I really do like the X27 when the wood accepts it. I'd use the X27 for everything if it would work, but it won't. My order of preference is X27, mauls, then hydraulic.

I've never seen or used the older Fiskars you guys mention. Makes me wish I could come across one, at least to try...

It's all good!


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## zogger (Aug 21, 2013)

BillNole said:


> This is pretty much my take as well. I still use my older mauls depending on the wood, but I really do like the X27 when the wood accepts it. I'd use the X27 for everything if it would work, but it won't. My order of preference is X27, mauls, then hydraulic.
> 
> I've never seen or used the older Fiskars you guys mention. Makes me wish I could come across one, at least to try...
> 
> It's all good!



Yep, all fiskars needed to do was make the darn handle longer, but noooo, they had to dork around with the shape to make it look like an axe when it is a splitter! I bet a weeks pay that was a marketing decision and not an engineering decision...the original shape was a wedge on a handle, which works quite well. The next closest for anything you can buy brand new looks to me in the pictures to be the wetterlings splitter at around 200 bucks. For that much money I would take the x27 fiskars and grind off the top and bottom, make it straight wedge shaped again. The spreader wing angle still looks the same to me, it is fine. Really not that much metal to remove to make it straight. Maybe a machine shop with a good metal cutter, a powered hacksaw (do not know a name for this...) could do it cheap, don't know. Or just use a grinder and take your time to not overheat it up while doing it.


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## CTYank (Aug 21, 2013)

One problem with evaluating splitting tools such as mauls & axes, is assuming such a tool is one or the other. Box "A" or Box "B". Minimal difference.

Fact is there are many variations on "maul", like of material, weight, shape, edge and handle for starters. These characteristics all vary enormously, as does the efficiency of the maul in splitting wood. No surprise.

People make all sorts of comparisons involving mauls, focusing totally on weight, often based on hearsay or hazy memory. Ignoring other factors. Seems to me you need to try them side by side, for a while, unbiased.

I did that with some, and reshaped some "Bradlees special" 6-pounders and an 8-pounder to mimic an Austrian maul. They went from instruments of torture to efficient wood-splitting tools. The changes were: flat cheeks with minimal "chubbiness" and sharp edges that are essentially at the same angle as the cheeks. Like a real axe. I couldn't do anything with the metallurgy.

The 8-pounder is still noticeably less effective, for me, than the 6-pounders, but useful for driving wedges into part-noodled forks & knots. Comparing them side by side with fiskars, I really didn't see what the hype was all about.

For a really good maul at a good price, try the Ochsenkopf that Stihl dealers sell with their label for ~$80. Then you can split rounds right down the middle instead of daisying (taking chips off the outside) them. Or try Gransfors Bruks, or Wetterlings, or Mueller or others.

Bottom line- if you're going to compare mauls with X-whatever, try a good maul, not a cheapie POS.


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## RAW (Aug 21, 2013)

Well my 8 lb. el cheapo maul was re ground to mimic the Austrian made Mueller which is 6.6 lbs. To some extent weight doesn't play as big a factor as the shape of the head itself. The Mueller face is shaped from the splitting edge STRAIGHT up to the widest point at the center of the eye. No flares or raised ribs. Using an 8 lb. maul for a day is kind of relaxing when you grind them this way.


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## cnice_37 (Aug 22, 2013)

RAW said:


> 1. Buy the most efficient wood burner you can. Means you have to cut less wood.
> 2. Use a 3/8" or .404 chain and keep it sharp.
> 3. Split when you fell the tree right then and there
> 4. Make sure you split it the way it grows
> ...




2. Why? 346xp with .325" cuts pretty good, so why change it over when the current setup works and your setup would cost me more $? Maybe when the time comes and the sprocket is done, but until then...
3. This isn't true for all wood. Split red oak in the cold, let pine dry, etc.
4. What does that mean? Stump faces down? What about knots and Y's? I just read the wood.
5. Sure do, but when you want to go to bed bigger chunks certainly have their place. All sizes that fit in the stove have their use.

As to your take on the Fiskars, it is a tool that has its niche (straight grained stuff), and puts my cheap maul to shame in a lot of the wood I split. It isn't very good for knotty stuff. I have found that if its a tougher species, or nasty piece, just throw it to the side for the hydraulics. The Fiskars is more enjoyable for me, I can swing it for an hour and feel great with plenty of work to show for it. And at the price point, it's my $40 life long gym membership.

I'd sure like to see the grinds on the heads of the cheap mauls, I want to give it a try but really have no idea what my end shape is.


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## RAW (Aug 22, 2013)

cnice_37 said:


> 2. Why? 346xp with .325" cuts pretty good, so why change it over when the current setup works and your setup would cost me more $? Maybe when the time comes and the sprocket is done, but until then...
> 3. This isn't true for all wood. Split red oak in the cold, let pine dry, etc.
> 4. What does that mean? Stump faces down? What about knots and Y's? I just read the wood.
> 5. Sure do, but when you want to go to bed bigger chunks certainly have their place. All sizes that fit in the stove have their use.
> ...



# 2.Yes the 346 XP does cut well with the .325. However the 346 is a still only a 50 cc saw, and if I remember correctly a little low on torque. The point being for efficiency of cutting a 3/8' standard pitch chain should be used on a saw above 55 cc. And yes you will find lots of forums where people use a .50 sprocket with a 3/8' standard pitch and claim they cut better on the 346 XP. I should have made that a point in my original post. Personally my saws are all old and 60 cc and over. Dolmar Sachs 166 and a model 7700 Green Machine at just under 62 cc's. I have tried the .325 in both saws and they do not cut as well

# 3. I will very much disagree with the fact that red oak splits better when frozen. I cut and split most of my wood in the spring. The hardwoods I have are maple, red oak, black cherry. On another lot I cut a lot of shag bark hickory, beech and an occasional elm. And yes I have split many of y pieces..... with my 8 lb. mauls. I also cut dead and diseased apple trees from a large orchard. Out of all of those species I would much rather split red oak when it's fresh green.... splits like seasoned fir. Apple is never straight and full of knots, it's my least favorite to split. Pine I cannot remark on because I do not burn it simply because where I live it's double the work to get the same heat as I would from a cord of hardwood. Once I quarter my pieces I switch over to a hand forged axe circa 1920's to split pieces to the 4" size.

#4. As I mentioned above I split it the way it grows straight up. That means I split from the bottom up. Y's I stand straight up with the smallest branch stump facing away from me. Big knots I turn parallel to my view. 

# 5. Physics plays a part here. Larger wood burns slower. The lower the temperature wood is burned at the more smoke and creosote you produce. For years I would burn 8" rounds at night in my Warner. The amount of creosote build up was so much that in the spring my stove pipe would have a 1/2" lining in it. Last fall I purchased a Pacific Energy Fusion. The fire box was only 1.5 cubic ft. I had to re cut the wood I had cut for the Warner which averaged about 20". The surprise was with smaller wood in both length and diameter I burnt a 1/3 LESS wood. If you go to A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood - woodheat.org home you will find that they recommend splitting wood from 3-6"

The Fiskars I'm sure does have a niche for some as far as the cheap end of things, but my one day use offered me none. If you look down in the head of your maul you want to see a straight line from the contact edge straight back to the widest point of the mall at the eye. Grind the sides until you can't see light with a straight edge laying across the 2 points. I never ever have or will sharpen the striking edge.


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## CTYank (Aug 22, 2013)

cnice_37 said:


> 2. Why? 346xp with .325" cuts pretty good, so why change it over when the current setup works and your setup would cost me more $? Maybe when the time comes and the sprocket is done, but until then...
> 3. This isn't true for all wood. Split red oak in the cold, let pine dry, etc.
> 4. What does that mean? Stump faces down? What about knots and Y's? I just read the wood.
> 5. Sure do, but when you want to go to bed bigger chunks certainly have their place. All sizes that fit in the stove have their use.
> ...



I can tell you what worked for me, to rework a couple "Bradlees special" mauls.

Starting with 7" rigid carborundum disc in a right-angle grinder. Holding the maul by the head in a little "workmate" I ground it slowly across each face, from the widest point to the edge, with the disc making contact along the head. (Lengthwise scratches.) Slowly grind off most all protrusions of the face above the plane from the widest point, to the edge. Then follow up with couple of grades of flexible disc, ending up with sharpening the edge.

(Mueller maul has the widest point of its head along the centerline of the handle. The cheapies don't, and there's nothing I could do about that. That head shape, keeping the splits from getting jammed into the handle, sure seems to have helped keep the handle like-new after splitting more than 10 cords.)

Bottom line: a sharp edge, and a head taper that's quite a bit more blunt than an axe- about .380-.440" thick at about 3/4" back from the edge, works great. For reference, my Snow & Neally axe is about .245" thick in that area. I just take off the "bumps" on the faces that the grinder finds for me. Nice and easy, keep it cool.

I see no down-side to a sharp edge, and I've found evidence that it gets it split more efficiently. With pre-mod mauls, often at the split face I'd find a good stripe, maybe 1/2" wide of crushed & torn fiber at the start of the split faces. They were being tortured rather than cleaved. With sharp edges, that's history.


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## ENYT (Aug 23, 2013)

CTYank can you post a picture of the mauls you have worked on.I am trying to do the same thing with an old 6lb maul that I had laying around.


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## CTYank (Aug 23, 2013)

ENYT said:


> CTYank can you post a picture of the mauls you have worked on.I am trying to do the same thing with an old 6lb maul that I had laying around.



Likely wouldn't help much, since I don't have any before/during pix. Desired head shape: looking from above, picture a very skinny piece of pie at the business end of the head, without obtuse angle or convexity near the edge.

As mentioned, I used a 7" rt-angle grinder, first w/rigid carborundum discs, then flexible discs, outdoors.

Very simple in concept (just takes time):
1. Clamp maul laying on its side, so a face of the head is accessible. Notice where the bulges on the face are; we want to reduce them as possible. A 6" straight-edge might help some folks.
2. With rigid disc, moving back and forth parallel the handle, with the disc making contact along the face, slowly grind into the high spots and explore for others. The idea is to make the face as flat as (reasonably) possible, from the edge to the widest point. Just get close to the edge here. Be careful to keep it cool- water helps.
Check your work with a straight-edge if it helps.
3. After grinding the other face, polish them some, fixtured the same way, with med. and fine flexible discs, and just touch the edge here. Again keep it cool.

IIRC, it took about 45 min. to rework each of 3 mauls, taking care to not overheat their mystery-metal. I just wanted to see how important the head-shape was, and if that would help them to work as effectively as the Mueller. Now I use the Mueller for the big stuff/first splits, and the no-nameo-s for the smaller stuff. The 8-lb one was merely a pointy sledge before; now it can split wood.

Enjoy the experiment; I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.


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## ENYT (Aug 23, 2013)

Well that sounds about like what I am aiming for. It is much more angular and wedge shaped. I am doing mine with a 4 inch grinder and it will probably take a couple hours before it is done.


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## CTYank (Aug 24, 2013)

ENYT said:


> Well that sounds about like what I am aiming for. It is much more angular and wedge shaped. I am doing mine with a 4 inch grinder and it will probably take a couple hours before it is done.



Nice sunny day, so I could get some pix of mauls, partly for "proof it did happen."

From left to right, or top down, they are (2) big-box 6-pounders, 3 kg (6.6 lb) Mueller, 8 lb big-box. It's pretty clear that the Mueller has a really substantial handle near the head- it tapers a lot there. Also, you can see how the Mueller's head is widest far behind the widest point of the others- this protects the handle.

The grinding under the head of the Mueller is original, from the forge. In fact, it's only modification here has been a progressive polishing of the head, back from the edge, with wood.










I hope this makes it at least partly clear, and helps make splitting more fun.


View attachment 311097
View attachment 311098


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## Ronaldo (Aug 24, 2013)

CTYank said:


> Nice sunny day, so I could get some pix of mauls, partly for "proof it did happen."
> 
> From left to right, or top down, they are (2) big-box 6-pounders, 3 kg (6.6 lb) Mueller, 8 lb big-box. It's pretty clear that the Mueller has a really substantial handle near the head- it tapers a lot there. Also, you can see how the Mueller's head is widest far behind the widest point of the others- this protects the handle.
> 
> ...





A picture is worth a thousand words, Thanks!

Ron


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## Hyper (Aug 21, 2017)

Some people make confusion between Axe and maul. I was searching the web for the best maul. I got many websites who review lots of maul and axe. It's horrible that most of them just describe axe as maul. It's painful. But after browsing lots web finally I come to get a real article who describe exactly What I need. The article from inspiringhomestyle helps me to get out of confusion. A big thanks to Traci for his nice article. I managed to buy a Hasqvrna splitting maul which has a 32 inch handle. It's a pretty maul that meets my need. I just love the maul.


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## NWCoaster (Aug 27, 2017)

I've only had experience with 3 different mauls. For what it is worth: Started with 6lb Council maul, used it for a lot of years, really nothing to complain about, good all around maul that is tough and can be used to drive wedges through tough wood. Eventually tried a Fiskars X27. Is way easier to swing with the lighter head and splits straighter grain wood more efficiently than the Council. Not very good to pound splitting wedges with due to the lighter weight and shape. Finally bought a Gransfors Bruks maul on a whim as a treat to myself...... It is somewhere in between the two...... Maybe the perfect blend in my opinion. The cross section of the head has 2 distinct shapes to it, the first edge starts driving into the wood, and then the curved contour splits the wood apart.... I love how it handles also. The handle is 27 inches, if it ever breaks I would probably put on a 32 inch one just cause I am fairly tall. But I tell ya, the edge I put on it will shave your arm and it is a wood splitting dream for the Big leaf maple, alder and fir we have out on the west coast here. Haven't had the heart to hit a wedge with it yet to tell you the truth though. Anything too heavy to lift on to the splitter gets the 461R splitter treatment now..... Getting too old and lazy for that heavy lifting stuff!!!!!


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## NWCoaster (Aug 27, 2017)

Here they are:


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## svk (Aug 28, 2017)

Ooh an old thread resurrected. 

There's a distinction between splitting axe and maul but to me it's what gets the best results and doesn't beat up the user. Some tools frankly aren't fun to use. 

For real tough stuff the Fiskars Isocore is the tool to beat IMO. If you want to crank out a lot of wood in a sitting you need to drop to a lighter tool. The Gransfors (5.5#) is the smoothest, most user friendly tool I've split wood with and it really works well. The Husqvarna S2800 works equally well but some don't like it because it has a relatively short handle and the composite handle doesn't absorb shock quite as well as the hickory on the Gransfors. Both the Gransfors and the Husky stand above the Fiskars X27 in performance although the Fiskars is half the cost of the Husky and less than a third of the Gransfors so it does have a purpose. 

Don't listen to @CTYank, he's a fanboy.


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## NWCoaster (Aug 29, 2017)

svk said:


> Ooh an old thread resurrected.
> 
> There's a distinction between splitting axe and maul but to me it's what gets the best results and doesn't beat up the user. Some tools frankly aren't fun to use.
> 
> ...


Haaahaaaahaaaaaa........


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## dave_026 (Sep 3, 2017)

I see most people have the Fiskars X25 or X27 models, I purchased the larger 8lb Fiskars splitting maul instead. Have been very happy with it so far. I have not used a wedge since I got the thing, even up to 30 in oak logs I just smash at it until they fall apart. Got about 2 cords on it so far, handling really well.


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## Hermio (Feb 10, 2022)

Qsky said:


> Try the 4 lb Fiskars. It's an amazing tool. And wont tire you out like the heavier mauls. I split 24 rows, each 22ft long, and four feet high, all oak, and never used a wedge.


Oak is one of the easier woods to split. Try hickory or elm.


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## Hermio (Feb 10, 2022)

dave_026 said:


> I see most people have the Fiskars X25 or X27 models, I purchased the larger 8lb Fiskars splitting maul instead. Have been very happy with it so far. I have not used a wedge since I got the thing, even up to 30 in oak logs I just smash at it until they fall apart. Got about 2 cords on it so far, handling really well.


I have the Fiskars 8 lb Iso-Core, the Fiskars X-27 splitting axe, an old hardware store 8 lb splitting maul and the original Sotz 15 lb Monster Maul. The Monster Maul is the best I have ever used. If it does not split the wood, it will not get stuck. My second favorite is the Fiakars X27. It does better than any of my 8 lb mauls, even though it has only a 4.5 lb head. I find the Iso-Core gets stuck a lot. That wastes a lot of my time.


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## atlashunter (Feb 16, 2022)

svk said:


> Ooh an old thread resurrected.
> 
> There's a distinction between splitting axe and maul but to me it's what gets the best results and doesn't beat up the user. Some tools frankly aren't fun to use.
> 
> ...


Good information. Have one I bought years ago from Northern Tool. Gets the job done but looking for something better.


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## SweetMK (Feb 17, 2022)

Since this sorta looks like a splitting maul,, I thought I would ask here,, *WHAT IS THIS!!??  *
It is marked N&W railroad,, (that was before Norfolk Southern)











I haven't tried it,, yet, but, I would bet it will split wood.
It weighs north of 6 pounds.


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## sliderulacuracy (Feb 17, 2022)

SweetMK said:


> Since this sorta looks like a splitting maul,, I thought I would ask here,, *WHAT IS THIS!!?? *
> It is marked N&W railroad,, (that was before Norfolk Southern)
> 
> 
> ...


Look up Rail Road Cut Devil, the rails would be scored on all sides then bent and the hope that helps. rail would snap. done cold, that is not heating the rail. These things were set, sharp end, on the rail and a larger hammer would hit them to score the rail
hope that this helps


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## SweetMK (Feb 17, 2022)

sliderulacuracy said:


> Look up Rail Road Cut Devil, the rails would be scored on all sides then bent and the hope that helps. rail would snap. done cold, that is not heating the rail. These things were set, sharp end, on the rail and a larger hammer would hit them to score the rail
> hope that this helps


WOW!!,, amazing that a rail could be broken by that little "hammer" ,, and not the repeated abuse of a locomotive!!

Rail metal must be strange,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

THANKS!!


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## sliderulacuracy (Feb 18, 2022)

SweetMK said:


> WOW!!,, amazing that a rail could be broken by that little "hammer" ,, and not the repeated abuse of a locomotive!!
> 
> Rail metal must be strange,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
> 
> THANKS!!


I need to clarify that a bit, after the rail was 'scored' it was set between two immovable objects and bent and then the rail 'snapped' at the score point. Probably took a lot of effort to bend it.
Also, to answer the first question, It probably would split wood, but need to be sharpened. I have a 'Scandinavian' pattern splitting maul that looks like the cut devil, works well on smaller pieces at the woodshed, but not so well on the first split of a large round in the field. The long thin point tends to get stuck before it splits the wood.


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