# Porta wrap rigging



## jrslick22 (Nov 19, 2008)

Im thinking about the porta wrap setup and wondering why no one seems to use endless loop slings like this http://www.wesspur.com/images/product/vr26_01_150.gif tied as chokers for the porta wrap and block anchors.

thanks


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## reachtreeservi (Nov 19, 2008)

Too much slack.

Not enough adjustability....


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## John Paul Sanborn (Nov 20, 2008)

reachtreeservi said:


> Too much slack.
> 
> Not enough adjustability....



Exactly, thou I would say no adjustability.

Loopie is my first choice, then whoopie, then a bull rope with a Stilson-on-a-bight. 

I've given up buying very long dead-eye slings since all they do is sit in the tool box most of the time. A bull rope can be a multi-tasker.


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## Rftreeman (Nov 20, 2008)

John Paul Sanborn said:


> A bull rope can be a multi-tasker.


especially when you cut 45 feet off one by mistake (don't ask) that short rope get's used more than a full length ever will.......


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## John Paul Sanborn (Nov 21, 2008)

TreeCo said:


> When using a short bull rope and a cow hitch I tie a long eye in the bowline that attaches to the porta wrap. My aim is to get the knot in the bowline way around the tree from the porta wrap so when the system takes load and the cow hitch cinches us around the trunk, that the knot in the bowline is not pulled into the girth hitched section of the cow hitch.



Another way to get around this is to place the Porty midline and tie the stilson with the doubled line


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## tree MDS (Nov 21, 2008)

I've always used 3/4" eye slings tied with a classic timber hitch, never had any problems so I stick with this setup. I used to get the 18 footers in stable braid (or is it double?) but after finding them too short one too many times I went back to ordering Tenex slings from shrerrill, now I've got a 20 footer and a 25 footer (maybe a little big, I havent used it yet, lol). Tenex is the way to go, stronger and nicer to work with.


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## md_tree_dood (Nov 21, 2008)

tree MDS said:


> I've always used 3/4" eye slings tied with a classic timber hitch, never had any problems so I stick with this setup. I used to get the 18 footers in stable braid (or is it double?) but after finding them too short one too many times I went back to ordering Tenex slings from shrerrill, now I've got a 20 footer and a 25 footer (maybe a little big, I havent used it yet, lol). Tenex is the way to go, stronger and nicer to work with.



I'm with this guy ^^^^^


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## treecycle (Nov 21, 2008)

*Porta-wrap-attachment*

Have always used slings, but was wondering if anybody has used a rated ratchet strap. Recently we did this on a project and was nice as there was little to no movement in portie. Just like the G.rcs I suppose?


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## Dadatwins (Nov 21, 2008)

TreeCo said:


> When using a short bull rope and a cow hitch I tie a long eye in the bowline that attaches to the porta wrap. My aim is to get the knot in the bowline way around the tree from the porta wrap so when the system takes load and the cow hitch cinches us around the trunk, that the knot in the bowline is not pulled into the girth hitched section of the cow hitch.



This is my system also. Made with an short section of bull rope that was part of a long section until I :censored: it. I will also retie it every so often and switch ends so it it always grabbing a different area.


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## Dadatwins (Nov 21, 2008)

treecycle said:


> Have always used slings, but was wondering if anybody has used a rated ratchet strap. Recently we did this on a project and was nice as there was little to no movement in portie. Just like the G.rcs I suppose?



Interesting, got a picture of it attached? I would think the strap would be in akward position trying to tighten around the porty.


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## Ax-man (Nov 21, 2008)

A clock hitch works good for porta-wrap work. 

Another thing that works good is to tie a rigging ring onto one end of a rope, with a prussic tied onto a rope snap for adjusting. If security is an issue the other end of the rope can be run through the ring and doubled back onto itself similar to the way a timber hitch is tied. Almost the same as a clock hitch.

For most light to meduim duty type tree work this works good and for a use with a 5/1. It is a nice way to get a quick wrap around a tree without all the knot tying and rope pulling . One guy can do it real easy. Put a rigging caribiner on the porty and attach it it to the ring. Quick easy and simple. 

I would not reccomend this set-up for heavy duty rigging like blocking down chunks of wood as an example because of all the knots involved reduce the strength of the rope and a prussic cord can only take so much along with the rope snap. 

Larry


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## UpperCanadaTree (Nov 21, 2008)

If we need ABSOLUTELY no movement of the port a wrap, we use a grade 70 binder chain and ratcheting load binder (bear trap) to attach the port a wrap to the tree (with a shackle in between). You have to be really careful in doing this though, since there is NO shock absorption at the bottom end of the system. The nice thing is that the chain bites into the stem making for a very secure mounting of the wrap.


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## (WLL) (Nov 21, 2008)

there is nothing better than the loopie in this aplication. if you dont have the grcs


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## Ax-man (Nov 21, 2008)

(WLL) said:


> there is nothing better than the loopie in this aplication. if you dont have the grcs



Loopie's are for pulley and block attachment up in the crown of a tree. I think you meant to say whoopie which goes around the bottom of the tree. Personally I hate a whoopie. Especially if it is made out of Tennex, picks and grabs too much to set it up on anything other than a smooth barked tree like a Plane tree.

Larry


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## John Paul Sanborn (Nov 22, 2008)

Ax-man said:


> Loopie's are for pulley and block attachment up in the crown of a tree.



I've used big loopies on portawraps, you just need a carabiner to attach.


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## Ax-man (Nov 22, 2008)

My son who does most of the boom truck work does the same thing, the same way. He uses a loopie up in the tree and then attaches the small version of the porta wrap with biner to the loopie and ties off the lowering rope then makes the cut. Doing it this way gives him the option of running the lower rope up in the tree so the groundman is free to manuver the cut limb over to the chipper. Works slick and does save some time as he is able to take bigger pieces out out of the tree and the groundman can handle the bigger piece without having to run a rope from the ground. Works really good for those pieces that come down butt first or the ones that balanced good horizontially.

Larry


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## (WLL) (Nov 22, 2008)

tenex is so easy to work with and all kinds of neat little bells n whistles can be added making fer one sweet custom loopie. ill get some pics of a few i have made up. tenex does not get the rep it should.


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## rbtree (Nov 23, 2008)

treecycle said:


> Have always used slings, but was wondering if anybody has used a rated ratchet strap. Recently we did this on a project and was nice as there was little to no movement in portie. Just like the G.rcs I suppose?



Gee, not a bad idea, for a newbie..... 

Call me, ya bum!


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## jrslick22 (Nov 23, 2008)

Great responses guys, keep em coming, thanks.


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## OLD CHIPMONK (Nov 23, 2008)

We use a 4" x 12 ft. nylon strap ( double strength) . Go around the butt, put one eye thru the other. Connect the por-ta-wrap, to one eye using a 1" shakle .


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## John Paul Sanborn (Nov 24, 2008)

OLD CHIPMONK said:


> We use a 4" x 12 ft. nylon strap ( double strength) .



I do not like any loop sling because you cannot adjust the "slop" out of the system. I want the friction devise as close to the tree as possible, with as little play as possible.

I only use a porty for small, quick jobs that getting The Winch out would be impractical.


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## tree MDS (Nov 24, 2008)

John Paul Sanborn said:


> I do not like any loop sling because you cannot adjust the "slop" out of the system. I want the friction devise as close to the tree as possible, with as little play as possible.
> 
> I only use a porty for small, quick jobs that getting The Winch out would be impractical.



Do you ever have problems with the line crossing itself on the winch?
The last time I used the grcs I had that problem. I was thinking maybe it was the double braid I was using, that thing is always in curls, we have to run it out in a straight line to fix this. Any thoughts on this? If you know what I'm talking about it can be pretty scary, thats for sure. When you have to go under a big leader and take off almost all the wraps to get the line straight again, that is.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Nov 24, 2008)

Double braids always hockle, I just toss the tail end out behind me. Sometimes switching ends while working will help.

I've not had problems with the line crossing when it runs through the fairleads and into the pigtail.


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## (WLL) (Nov 24, 2008)

*yesterday's pic's*





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## TheTreeSpyder (Nov 24, 2008)

i've sued ratchet cargo straps too, but for lighter stuff, because you tighten, then bend them perpendicular tot he tightening, for vbery intense leveraging of that device strategy.

i like a locked Cow( first cross going over/against direction of loading), and if maid with a Bowline (or any other) eye, prefer a long eye so that the eye-2 legs take the brunt of the loading and impacts, not the knot or splice (that takes reduced loading after the tree friction.

i do like an adjustable Whoopie with 3' adjustability range, then buy spanset slings in 3',6',9' etc. ranges, to have full adjustability range. Primary loading on whoopie should be to the adjsutable, rather than fixed eye, to spread out the wear...


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