# Felling Techniques



## bmcinto01 (Jul 1, 2011)

Hello, new to the site. Are there any resources, advice, pictures, diagrams...etc that demonstrate good felling techniques? I've been cutting for firewood and clearing awhile, but never took on anything over 18" in diameter. Thanks to Michigan's wonderful ash bore, I have some 20" plus trees that are dead on my property. Good thing though, I need the firewood. Bad thing is these are a little more than I've handled and I don't want to make any stupid mistakes. Plan on doing a lot of studying before I tackle these.

I've found a few sites, but wasn't familiar with the lingo, so it was a little confusing. I do a lot of cutting, so I have enough saw. Like I say the BIG vertical ones I haven't messed with.


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## Grace Tree (Jul 1, 2011)

Logging eTool - Making the Cuts - Kinds of Notches
You can search around this site. It has some info that may be useful.
Phil


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## scenescence (Jul 1, 2011)

BarberChair
Logging eTool - Making the Cuts - Kinds of Notches

Good luck and stay safe.


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## lfnh (Jul 1, 2011)

+1 all above

Timber Fallers - D Dent. good book. Baileys should have them.

online - Faller std. basic easy read.

better way ask around. find someone (logger, DOF course, maybe some on AS)
that HAS some solid experience and ask for some help.


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## Redpath (Jul 1, 2011)

THE BASICS: In woods felling, more or less straight tree-live and sound. Conventional technique (good for most trees most places-I know this will start a fight!)

Safety: PPE: Chaps, hardhat, hearing protection, steel toe boots, gloves, felling wedges, big hammer/axe. Sharp chain, properly tensionsed. Saw fully gassed and oiled. OTHERWISE STAY HOME.

Examine the tree. Note dead limbs, general condition, visible rot, hornets nests, tree houses, deer stands, branching structure, nearby obstacles, wires. grapevines, overlapping branches with adajcent trees etc etc. This is important take your time.

Determine lean of tree-if any. Note big branches or other features that would affect the natural lay of the tree. Perfectly straight is rare (but nice).

Determine felling direction based on above. You have to work with what nature gives you. 
Check the lay. Make sure there is room. Clear as needed. If the falling tree is going to bust up any small trees in its path you might as well cut them before hand. 

Plan escape route-clear out if needed.

Clear out around the base of the tree-all the way around!

Face the tree in the direction you wish it to go. 1/3 diameter undercut and about 45 degrees for the face cut. MATCH YOUR CORNERS. Cut from both sides if your bar is too short.

Move around to the back of the tree and have your wedge and hammer handy. 
Stop at this point and have a look around. Look up!

Sart your back cut about 2 inches above the under cut-nice and level. 
Drive your wedge into the back cut as soon as you can. Every time!

Continue cutting towards the face keeping the holding wood 'hinge' uniform. Cut from both sides if your bar is too short. 

As the hinge narrows start looking around and up and watching for any sign of movement. Cut slower now. Keep looking.

If all goes to plan the tree should start to fall (in the inetended direction no less) when the holding wood/hinge gets to 'around' the 1" range (18" tree) . DONT CUT TOO FAR! Do not cut through the hinge-EVER. All control is lost if you do and likley your saw is pinched to boot. Why would I know this?

If the tree doesnt fall and just sits there carefully trim the hinge wood thickness a bit more and bang on the wedge a few times. Look up! That should do it unless you really messed up. (At which point you have some work to do but at least you can pull your saw free because you always put a wedge in the backcut right?)

When the tree is defintely going down, PULL OUT AND GET OUT along your escape path. Get far away and look up the whole time. Death comes from above. 

Once the tree is down hesitate a bit and look around AND UP to make sure that the coast is truly clear before approaching the tree. 

Congratulate yourself and say a prayer for the forest that it may live and prosper. 

Be paranoid and live longer. 

And D.Douglas Dent is the man!


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## bmcinto01 (Jul 1, 2011)

*Good Advice!*

Thanks for all the replies so far. Great advice. Knowing how to do this isn't enough. You really need to know what kinds of things can happen while your actually doing the work. I will be investing in some good Stihl wedges this week, clearing the "work zone", and scouting the tops for surprises.

Looks like a beginner would be best using an open-faced cut to start out. It's all going in the stove, so no worries there. I'll have the wife posted as the lookout downrange and tell her if I start running to try an keep up!


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## oscar4883 (Jul 1, 2011)

The type of face is important but IMO the thing to watch out for is the quality of the cuts in the face. Take your time and make your cuts line up real well. The other thing that is mondo important is watching the tree for movement and not cutting into/off your hinge.


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## bmcinto01 (Jul 1, 2011)

*Good point!*



oscar4883 said:


> The type of face is important but IMO the thing to watch out for is the quality of the cuts in the face. Take your time and make your cuts line up real well. The other thing that is mondo important is watching the tree for movement and not cutting into/off your hinge.


 
I've found this to be my weekness in larger trees. Getting those cuts to line up is tricky. Always thought you had to work fast and haul tail. Nice to learn applying these methods will give time to get it right and be safe.


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## lfnh (Jul 1, 2011)

Don't cut alone. Have a working cellphone.

Take a look around in other forums. See if there's someone near you
or a Get Together coming up that's close to you.

Oh, Welcome to AS!


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## Groundhog (Jul 1, 2011)

What part of MI. are you from? Someone might just show you if they are near by.


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## Norwayclimber (Jul 2, 2011)

Get the book:
To Fell a Tree by Jeff Jepson

Covers all the basics in a good way and nice illustrations.


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## littlejoetqt (Jul 12, 2011)

I noticed you mentioned that some of the trees you plan on felling are dead. IMHO, dead trees are much more dangerous than live ones. Limbs are brittle, hinges are brittle if the tree's been dead for a while. An open face notch is a good, safe way to cut, with the hinge staying connected(thus the tree somewhat controlled) for longer than a standard notch. If the tree is completely dead, it may be a bit useless though. Many of the dead trees I have cut have been hard and brittle from one end to the other. You cut the notch, make your backcut and of course the proper precautions beforehand, but as soon as the tree starts falling the hinge breaks. Tree falls, of course, but with no control from your hinge. anything the tree brushes against on it's path toward the ground is game to break a branch or alter the direction of the tree. Be very careful when cutting the dead ones. 

Depending on the nature of the trees you're cutting, and the species, there may be another method of cutting you need to learn. I call it a bore cut, some call it a plunge cut. When done improperly, it's very dangerous regarding kickback. With a little learning and practice, it's a very useful method for cutting trees. The species I've learned are most likely(in my area) to barber-chair are Ash, Chestnut Oak, and Black Birch. There are others, but the ash and chestnut oak are particularly finicky. Beware cutting in extremely low temperatures, frozen trees are much more dangerous.

The information required to explain how and when is too much for this post. I couldn't recommend anyone to learn to fell trees without an experienced teacher. I'm not saying it's impossible, just that there's nothing like a little watch-and-learn followed by some hands-on training. That's how I was taught, so I may be a little biased in that statement.

Redpath gave a lot of really great advice, too. Without the PPE, plenty of gas/oil for the job, and a sharp saw, you'd just as well stay home. 

I was given a short list of things to remember by the most talented cutter I've ever met. I'll pass them forward, if I can quote them correctly.

A level stump pulls a tree. 

Split the forks, not the tree.(this means that if you're felling a tree with a large fork in it, you want both forks to hit the ground simultaneously. If you cut it so that one hits with the other above, you may split the butt right down the center.) 

Always bore the heavy side first.

Quality in time makes quantity.(this isn't exactly what he told me, but it was the point he was trying to make)

All the good timber cutters are dead.

I hope this helps, anyone feel free to correct or interject.


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 12, 2011)

Your best bet is to have someone show you and explain a few things. 
Jeff:msp_smile:


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## sawinredneck (Jul 12, 2011)

Here's how NOT to do it!
[video=youtube;6N6rViWIzVY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6N6rViWIzVY[/video]

[video=youtube;XxK6Cdb-_bw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxK6Cdb-_bw&feature=related[/video]

[video=youtube;Zz0rbuBk8pE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zz0rbuBk8pE&feature=related[/video]

The physics and mechanics are the same as the small trees, just on a bigger scale. Once you've dropped a couple, with no hazards in or around them, all will be fine.


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 12, 2011)

sawinredneck said:


> Here's how NOT to do it!
> [video=youtube;6N6rViWIzVY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6N6rViWIzVY[/video]
> 
> [video=youtube;XxK6Cdb-_bw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxK6Cdb-_bw&feature=related[/video]
> ...


 
Either you are joking or you are an idiot,
Jeff


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## bmcinto01 (Jul 13, 2011)

*More Great Advice!*

I'll be checking out these videos tonight. Thanks for these. I'm starting with the smallest, straightest tree. Thankfully none of them are near any buildings. Trees are not completely dead and no rot I can see. No forkers, but couple leaners.


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## sawinredneck (Jul 13, 2011)

jefflovstrom said:


> Either you are joking or you are an idiot,
> Jeff


 
So you make a different face and use a different way to do a back cut on a tree based on it's size?
You cut the small tree one way and a big tree another because they aren't the same size?


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 13, 2011)

sawinredneck said:


> So you make a different face and use a different way to do a back cut on a tree based on it's size?
> You cut the small tree one way and a big tree another because they aren't the same size?


 
Yeah, maybe. The part when you said " once you do it a few times, you will be fine", is what I was refering to.
Jeff


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## sawinredneck (Jul 13, 2011)

I see, what I meant was that once he realized it wasn't any more difficult than the small trees he's been falling, he'd get more comfortable and competent at doing it.
But targets in the way and hazard trees are going to be dangerous, big or small!


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 13, 2011)

sawinredneck said:


> I see, what I meant was that once he realized it wasn't any more difficult than the small trees he's been falling, he'd get more comfortable and competent at doing it.
> But targets in the way and hazard trees are going to be dangerous, big or small!


 
Yup, that is why he should have someone show him instead of reading how to do it.
Jeff :msp_smile:


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## Macclay (Jul 14, 2011)

I use this method often


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## NCTREE (Jul 14, 2011)

Macclay said:


> I use this method often


 just dont leave your saw behind, thats like a soldier leaving his gun in combat


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## Creeker (Jul 17, 2011)

*Wedges and offsiders..*

I only use the aluminium wedges, don't mess about with the slippery plastic ones and re your wife, she'll be safe well away from the job, you won't be able to hear her with your saw going and she's just another thing to keep an eye on IMO. 

You can look up at the tree, or look down at the back cut as you make it, when the back cut starts to open then its on its way down.

The pic shows the faller close to the tree with it quite vertical and his back to it. Watch it till you're certain its going in the intended direction, and only then move safely to the exit, that prepared exit path is usually 45 deg from the stump and not downhill from where the tree will land.

Take your time and watch how deep the back cut is, and has been prev said, never cut through the hinge wood !!!

If you have any doubt where the tree might go then get a cable or heavy rope well up it and weight it up with your Ute or tractor etc, then put the cuts in.

Getting an experienced faller or doing a course is a good idea too.


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## rarefish383 (Jul 18, 2011)

Did I miss something, no one mentioned using a tag line? I seldom drop a tree without a tag line, Joe.


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## forestryworks (Jul 18, 2011)

NCTREE said:


> just dont leave your saw behind, thats like a soldier leaving his gun in combat


 
You can always replace a saw.


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## Gologit (Jul 20, 2011)

littlejoetqt said:


> All the good timber cutters are dead.


 
Oh?


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## forestryworks (Jul 20, 2011)

littlejoetqt said:


> All the good timber cutters are dead.



:monkey:


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## RandyMac (Jul 20, 2011)

Threads like these are always good for a laugh.


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## paccity (Jul 20, 2011)

but how,? nevermind.


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## Hank Chinaski (Jul 21, 2011)

Macclay said:


> I use this method often


 
do you go thru a lot of trained squirrels using this method?


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## promac850 (Jul 21, 2011)

Number 37 said:


> do you go thru a lot of trained squirrels using this method?


 
It doesn't appear to be so...

He must use flying squirrels... they simply swoosh and whish out of the path of the falling tree.


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## wyk (Jul 23, 2011)

Macclay said:


> I use this method often


 

And here I was thinking _I_ was the only one that did _The Moon Walk_ quickly followed by a fist pump after I finished my back cuts.

No matter, HBRN will be along shortly to show us how it's done.


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## TreEmergencyB (Jul 23, 2011)

i leave the saw if its pinched and i need to help pull, if it catches in the 'kerf' ill give it a tug or 2 b4 i abandon it. $1300 chainsaw is not worth my life nor do get paid enough to risk my self to save it.

Except when im climbing i try to get it back cause 1 its my personal saw and the yank on the saddle sucks and watching the saw fall with the log is nice either.


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## tabilitytrees (Aug 12, 2011)

*Safety first*

Whatever you do and whichever equipment you use, practice safety. Stay safe and good luck.


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## bmcinto01 (Aug 22, 2011)

*Success!*

Went after the big boy this weekend! 26" diameter, 90 ft tall! Clean fall. Thanks to all for the great advice! And no I don't recommend just anybody try this. I did my homework thoroughly before even attempting any cutting at all.


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## 2dogs (Aug 22, 2011)

How did I miss this thread with dead cutters and trained squirrels? And what kind of cap is the faller wearing? Is the squirrel wearing PPE?


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## lfnh (Aug 22, 2011)

2dogs said:


> How did I miss this thread with dead cutters and trained squirrels? And what kind of cap is the faller wearing? *Is the squirrel wearing PPE?*


 
Fooled me. 

thought the squirrel was getting poop bombed by the spotted owl

gee, hope they survived..


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## troythetreeman (Aug 23, 2011)

this video is pretty good, the more open your notch is pretty good
Product Demo Videos ECHO Chain Saw Carving Video How To | ECHO USA
there are some others
you need to adjust for natural lean and figure where the top will land
there are plunge cut techniques and wedge use, i prefer to put ropes in the top or near the top for pulling, the higher you get it the more leverage you have, my wedges i use mostly for keeping cuts open so my saw doesnt bind
be sure to leave a hinge, this will control the tree as it falls, the more open your notch is the long your hinge will hold, when your notch closes your hinge will break, sometimes this is good, sometimes this is not, depending where you want you butt to end up
beware using machines to pull on ropes, you dont want to break your rope
and make good knots, a good knot needs to do two things, it needs to hold, and it needs to come out when youre done with it
and _never_ cut from a ladder, if you need to cut limbs in the air use the right tools or hire a professional
most companies bid tree work based on time involved, putting trees on the ground and leaving the mess for you to deal with means less equipment on the site and less guys to do it so you can get some pretty good deals
one more note
you cant make a good notch with a dull saw


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## Metals406 (Aug 23, 2011)

That Echo video is crap! It's going to mislead someone into thinking you point to where you want the tree to fall, and it will magically happen with the notch and backcut.


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## troythetreeman (Aug 23, 2011)

hence the reference to using wedges or ropes to pull against a lean, but youre right, its incomplete


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## keh10 (Aug 23, 2011)

This right here is man's best friend when felling against the lean.

Tree Stuff - Maasdam Rope Puller Kit


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## jefflovstrom (Aug 23, 2011)

keh10 said:


> This right here is man's best friend when felling against the lean.
> 
> Tree Stuff - Maasdam Rope Puller Kit


 
I have been in a good mood lately, but , sounds trollish.
Jeff


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## 2dogs (Aug 24, 2011)

Metals406 said:


> That Echo video is crap! It's going to mislead someone into thinking you point to where you want the tree to fall, and it will magically happen with the notch and backcut.


 
At the very end it looks like the dude's saw was stuck. He throttled up but the chain didn't spin. I am right?

Anyway his technique of no flat gunning cut would never work out west in bigger trees and situations where placement of the tree is everything. Must be a GOL guy.


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## forestryworks (Aug 25, 2011)

Metals406 said:


> That Echo video is crap! It's going to mislead someone into thinking you point to where you want the tree to fall, and it will magically happen with the notch and backcut.


 
It's because the guy is a "feller" and not a faller


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## pdqdl (Aug 27, 2011)

Macclay said:


> I use this method often


 
Unless you do something else to that tree, besides walking away from it, it will always remain standing until a wind blows it over. Assuming, of course, that the tree is straight and balanced.

Wedges? Pull rope? Using an existing lean or prevailing wind? Without these factors, that diagram only shows a tree settling on the back cut and pinching the saw.


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## forestryworks (Aug 27, 2011)

pdqdl said:


> Unless you do something else to that tree, besides walking away from it, it will always remain standing until a wind blows it over. Assuming, of course, that the tree is straight and balanced.
> 
> Wedges? Pull rope? Using an existing lean or prevailing wind? Without these factors, that diagram only shows a tree settling on the back cut and pinching the saw.


 
Or if you undermined the tree's center of gravity correctly with the proper face cut and proper holding wood placement. It works.


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## lfnh (Aug 27, 2011)

I'm telling ya, that squirrel is a red herring right from the get go.

thought the down arrow was squirrel jump.

thought the left arrow (<--) was the tree setting back.

not much to say bout the hinge and where are the wedges


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## pdqdl (Aug 28, 2011)

forestryworks said:


> Or if you undermined the tree's center of gravity correctly with the proper face cut and proper holding wood placement. It works.


 
I can't tell you how many supposedly expert tree workers I have hired that simply don't understand that concept. Honest!

I try to explain it, and I have even had guys walk out of range of the tree and tell me that it wouldn't work. Others will tell me that there is no need to cut that deep, the face cut makes it go that way...


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## forestryworks (Aug 28, 2011)

pdqdl said:


> I can't tell you how many supposedly expert tree workers I have hired that simply don't understand that concept. Honest!
> 
> I try to explain it, and I have even had guys walk out of range of the tree and tell me that it wouldn't work. Others will tell me that there is no need to cut that deep, the face cut makes it go that way...


 
The infamous sloping backcut "makes it go that way", too! :hmm3grin2orange:

Gotta cringe when you see those.


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## paccity (Aug 28, 2011)

forestryworks said:


> The infamous sloping backcut "makes it go that way", too! :hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> Gotta cringe when you see those.


 
yup i cringed the other day when i saw these, thought i smelled a "pro logger" around here.View attachment 196994
View attachment 196995
View attachment 196996
View attachment 196997
View attachment 196998


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## lfnh (Aug 28, 2011)

Reverse saginaw swizzel. Yup. That's it.


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## one.man.band (Sep 5, 2011)

rarefish383 said:


> Did I miss something, no one mentioned using a tag line? I seldom drop a tree without a tag line, Joe.


 
invest in some high quality rope. tag line it before any cuts are made. wedges work wonders, but don't get caught in a dangerous situation where the wedge(s) are pounded in and the tree is still standing.


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## PJM (Sep 6, 2011)

troythetreeman said:


> this video is pretty good, the more open your notch is pretty good
> Product Demo Videos ECHO Chain Saw Carving Video How To | ECHO USA


Hilarious ... the guy sets the saw down to make his retreat after the tree is already on the ground


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## pdqdl (Sep 6, 2011)

Of course. Didn't you know? Chainsaws are dangerous!

The sooner you put it down, the safer you are.


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## NCTREE (Sep 6, 2011)

forestryworks said:


> You can always replace a saw.


 
do you really think it's safer to put the saw down everytime you fell a tree?


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## jefflovstrom (Sep 6, 2011)

I think he was joking and forgot a smilie-:msp_smile:
Jeff


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## NCTREE (Sep 7, 2011)

PJM said:


> Hilarious ... the guy sets the saw down to make his retreat after the tree is already on the ground


 
Ain't! Where do they find these yahoos? Echo couldn't afford to get a real feller pro, they figured they could get this idiot to do the same thing and pay him in beer. I think a beaver could of felled that tree safer.


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## forestryworks (Sep 7, 2011)

NCTREE said:


> Ain't! Where do they find these yahoos? Echo couldn't afford to get a real feller pro, they figured they could get this idiot to do the same thing and pay him in beer. I think a beaver could of felled that tree safer.


 
Of course they got a real feller.

They just couldn't afford a real *faller* :msp_biggrin:


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## WoodLoon (Sep 8, 2011)

one.man.band said:


> invest in some high quality rope. tag line it before any cuts are made. wedges work wonders, but don't get caught in a dangerous situation where the wedge(s) are pounded in and the tree is still standing.


 What's a "tag line"?


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## forestryworks (Sep 9, 2011)

NCTREE said:


> do you really think it's safer to put the saw down everytime you fell a tree?


 
Nice, I never said that or think what you're asking.

Some trees it's safe to leave the saw, some trees it's not. Wait until you trip with a saw in your hand, you'll wished you left it behind. There is always a place to stash a saw in the woods.

Get on some steep ground some day, you'll see 

Still cheaper to replace a saw than to replace you.


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## Youngbuck20 (Sep 9, 2011)

whats the concept to this sloped back cut?? ive seen it done by hydro one crews. do they think it creates a wall so its more likely to fall towards the notch??


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## Grace Tree (Sep 9, 2011)

Youngbuck20 said:


> whats the concept to this sloped back cut?? ive seen it done by hydro one crews. do they think it creates a wall so its more likely to fall towards the notch??


 I believe so and it's just as effective as body english.
Phil


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## Gologit (Sep 9, 2011)

forestryworks said:


> Nice, I never said that or think what you're asking.
> 
> Some trees it's safe to leave the saw, some trees it's not. Wait until you trip with a saw in your hand, you'll wished you left it behind. There is always a place to stash a saw in the woods.
> 
> ...


 
True. Save your saw if you can but save yourself first.


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## DangerTree (Sep 21, 2011)

sawinredneck said:


> So you make a different face and use a different way to do a back cut on a tree based on it's size?
> You cut the small tree one way and a big tree another because they aren't the same size?


 
Funny you should say that but yeah I do. On small trees that I cant fit my wedge and bar in I do the back cut first insert the wedge and then do the face cut. The cuts are the same just the order is different to protect the innocent.


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## DangerTree (Sep 21, 2011)

Youngbuck20 said:


> whats the concept to this sloped back cut?? ive seen it done by hydro one crews. do they think it creates a wall so its more likely to fall towards the notch??


 
The sloped back cut is another way of creating an anti kick step I personally think it shows lack of skill when I see it done but hey if the undercut is good and they don't cut through it then who am I to say. I can tell you this that it would not pass if you were logging on the hill side. The stump checker would have you fired out of a cannon!


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## Youngbuck20 (Sep 21, 2011)

Ohhhhhh ok. I must say it looks rather dumb. Do you or anyone else here do the small cuts on either side of the notch to disconnect bark fibers so it doesn't scar the tree when it falls? They are teaching it just curious who actually practices it.


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## Metals406 (Sep 21, 2011)

Youngbuck20 said:


> Ohhhhhh ok. I must say it looks rather dumb. Do you or anyone else here do the small cuts on either side of the notch to disconnect bark fibers so it doesn't scar the tree when it falls? They are teaching it just curious who actually practices it.


 
Cutting the cheeks of the face is a good practice with some species to limit stump-pull that can occur there.

That little tickle they show on the video won't do anything beyond severing the bark. . . And is stupid.


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## Youngbuck20 (Sep 21, 2011)

i can see if the bark held while it was falling and pulled it one way or the other then it would be worth it, first time ive heard about it though. Would have to be some very strong bark and a very small tree i assume.


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