# The 361 options and mods thead



## windthrown (Dec 21, 2008)

Updated in 2014 from the old site thread. Some stuff is lost but most of the part numbers are still good. 

OK, several people have asked me what bars I run on my 361s and what rims, mods, and other stuff I have and that is available. This is not the thread to rave about or flame the 361 (there are enough of those already!), just the place to post mods and part numbers, what you run or like running on your 361, or have found to work better (or worse), and that kind of stuff.

Note: the 361 and 362 have the same oil pump part number, so the oil pump upgrade listed below will work on the 362 as well.


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## windthrown (Dec 21, 2008)

*361 rim sprocket part numbers*

These are the part numbers for the 361 rims from the Stihl IPL: 

0000 042 1216 1 Rim sprocket 3/8" 8T 
0000 042 1223 1 Rim sprocket 3/8" 7T <------ stock rim for the 361 
0000 642 1239 1 Rim sprocket 0.325" 9T

Oregon has these rim sprockets that are a match as well (available at Bailey's and other saw shops): 

Power Mate Rim, standard spline, 3/8-8, 8 tooth (Bailey's #ORL 22273)
Power Mate Rim, standard spline, 3/8-7, 7 tooth (Bailey's #ORL 68210)

Also Bailey's have some generic rim sprockets available for cheap: 

Drive Sprocket Rim (Standard Spline) 375-8 Tooth (Bailey's #RSD 3758)
Drive Sprocket Rim (Standard Spline) 375-7 Tooth (Bailey's #RSD 3757) 

..... 

I run all 3/8" b&c on my 361s. I usually run an 8 pin rim with a 16 or 18 inch bar, and a 7 pin rim with a 20 or 25 inch bar, all with full comp RM chain. I also run an 8 pin rim with a 20 inch bar with full skip RMF chain. 

*Stihl RM chain means Stihl Oilomatic Rapid Micro non-safety chain. For the 361, it is only available in 3/8" pitch chain, all gauges. 

*Stihl RMF chain means Stihl Oilomatic Rapid Micro Full Skip non-safety chain. For the 361, it is only available in 3/8" 0.050 gauge.


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## windthrown (Dec 21, 2008)

*Starter grip options*

Starter grip handle options on the 361 with part numbers from the IPL: 

1121 195 3400 1 Starter grip (1) USA
1128 190 3400 1 Starter grip ElastoStart

Corrected: The ElastoStart grip has a big stretchy rubber thingey in it for some give when starting, which can make it easier on your wrist.


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## windthrown (Dec 21, 2008)

*Chain roller/dual dog kit*

This is the Stihl part number for the dual dog and chain roller kit for the 361 from the IPL.

1135 650 7750

The cost of the kit is about $35.

Note that there is also a 3/4 wrap (Stihl calls it a full wrap) option kit for this with a different side cover. I will post that separately.


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## windthrown (Dec 21, 2008)

*3/4 wrap, dual dog and deep side cover kit*

The Stihl part number for this (according to *Lakeside53* in some other AS threads is):

1135 007 1007

The kit includes a 3/4 wrap top handle (Stihl calls this a full wrap), a new deep dish side cover, a new (different) top buffer spring, a scrench, dual dogs and roller chain catcher. The cost for the kit is about $140. It will turn your 361 into a full R model saw that looks like this:


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## windthrown (Dec 21, 2008)

*361 & 362 oil pump upgrade with 460R oil pump parts*

Some people have had issues with low output from 361 oil pumps. I have not had any problems with oil pumps myself, except using a 361 with a 28 inch bar. After some use with the stock oil pump set to full, the 28 inch bar is blueing top and bottom near the sprocket tip mounts (Stihl ES bar) and the paint is burning off in these places as well.

You can replace the 361 oil pump with the full 460R (3/4 wrap) high capacity oil pump assembly. The Stihl part number is:

1128 640 3250 full oil pump assembly

You can also keep the 361 oil pump and just replace the piston and control bolt with the 460R parts. The Stihl part numbers for these are:

1128 647 0602 oil pump piston 
1128 647 4803 oil pump control bolt

You can also replace the pump with the 460 oil pump or parts, and it will gush a bit less. If you are running a 28 inch bar, the plain 460 oil pump parts should be fine.

1128 640 3206 full oil pump assembly

or:

1128 647 0606 oil pump piston 
1128 647 4806 oil pump control bolt



Lakeside53 said:


> 1/2 a tank or so of oil per tank of gas is normal on the 361. If your bar isn't burning the paint or other abnormal wear, it's not an issue. If you want more, as referenced above, put in the WRAP 460 oil pump parts.
> 
> BTW.. The 361 oiler puts out 91% of the Standard (not Wrap) 460 oiler. Why slightly less? because they use shorter bars. It's in another thread, but from memory (so check..) the 361 is about 15.5cc/min, the 460 17 and the 460 wrap up to 24.


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## dancan (Dec 21, 2008)

Great info post , should be a sticky .


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## Bowtie (Dec 21, 2008)

The muffler screen is part # 1135 145 8600 (and I need one)
The screw is part # 9099 021 0810 (and I need one)


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## SawTroll (Dec 21, 2008)

I also run 3/8" exclusively, usually with an 8-pin rim with the 15" bar, and 7-pin with the 18".

15" and 8-pin make the saw an awsome limbing saw!

Stihl or Oregon rims make no difference, they actually look like they are made the same place.........


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## SawTroll (Dec 21, 2008)

*Great thread!*



Bowtie said:


> The muffler screen is part # 1135 145 8600 (and I need one)
> The screw is part # 9099 021 0810 (and I need one)



*Great thread!*   

My European version didn't come with one - so I don't have a spare one......


Just for the record, I believe the saws sold in NA and OZ are made at Virginea beach, while those offered elsewhere are made in Germany.

The only differences are the mufflers and cylinders.

Also for the record, the heated (W and VW/Arctic) versions have a metal handlebar, and weights .4 pound more.


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## Dapper Dan (Dec 21, 2008)

Great post and thanks!

If I don't have part numbers in hand for these kind of parts my local dealer (rental store) looks at me like I am speaking a different language.


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## 24d (Dec 21, 2008)

I'd like to see a sticky for part numbers phone numbers ect for options on all saws, I think that would be very helpful


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 21, 2008)

so the 8T spocket on 18i" bar does ?? more torque/what??

7T on 20?? why

what for a 24/25' bar IF using RMF ??? 

all for oak/cedar/mesq wood... ash is not the problem..


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## blsnelling (Dec 21, 2008)

diesel&coffee said:


> so the 8T spocket on 18i" bar does ?? more torque/what??
> 
> 7T on 20?? why
> 
> ...



Less torque but more chain speed.


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## SawTroll (Dec 21, 2008)

blsnelling said:


> Less torque but more chain speed.



Yep, and where the limit goes depend on the wood and the operator + a few other factors.....


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## XJWoody (Dec 21, 2008)

*Lakeside53 muffler mod*

Andy's muffler mod is a great addition to the MS 361. Lakerizing™ woke mine up, and gave it an _angry_ roar.

Here's 9 pages of it: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=33528

Cliff's notes:
remove muffler
attach (weld or braze) small outlet tube
clean out any scrapnel from within, repaint, reinstall
install spark arrestor (optional but recommended as anti-suckback device)
readjust carb mixture

The part numbers for the factory spark arrestor and retaining clip are:
4223-141-9000 (fire screen, aprx $5)
4223-141-6600 (buckle, aprx $4)
and a piece of tubing (got mine at the local hardware, in the misc junk drawer, a "spacer/bushing" for less than a buck IIRC, enough to make two of these)

The OEM parts and the correct size tube that fits the screen can also be used on other small equipment... my FS 250 has one in place of the tiny OEM outlet.

Another option (once the muffler mod is done) is a Gen-U-Wine Stihl Magnum™ decal for the air filter cover. This sets your 361 apart from the crowd. Part # 0000-967-1593 and more $ than it should. Buy several, and Magnumize™ everything... pets, children, appliances etc.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 21, 2008)

windthrown said:


> Starter grip handle options on the 361 with part numbers from the IPL:
> 
> 1121 195 3400 1 Starter grip (1) USA
> 1128 190 3400 1 Starter grip ElastoStart
> ...



Minor correction... The 1128 elastostart has a big stretchy rubber, not spring. The spring based version is lighter and not suitable on saws larger than the 200T.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 21, 2008)

XJWoody said:


> Another option (once the muffler mod is done) is a Gen-U-Wine Stihl Magnum™ decal for the air filter cover. This sets your 361 apart from the crowd. Part # 0000-967-1593 and more $ than it should. Buy several, and Magnumize™ everything... pets, children, appliances etc.





lolol... I knew I was missing something.

Lists for $1.80.


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## Wirenut2266 (Dec 21, 2008)

Threads about the 361 almost put a tear in my eye. It just puts joy in my heart during this holiday season! Great thread


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 21, 2008)

First 

the spur sprockets list for the 361 are 10, 11, 13 ! are the rim 7, 8, 9 a direct replacement in each or "MOST" cases?? now....

Noted the RM chain is listed for all the lower end model number saws?? Was the RM really meant for the lower end saws?? was it a HP thing?? I know it is a "semi" chipper chain "I think".. But then that does not make sence because it is listed in 404 gauge... 

THis is just because a "A" stihl dealer was trying to tell me the RM is for lower end saws.. They also tried in a roundabout way say they where "all" low kickback!! Sometimes I think they are just trying to sell whats on the self!!

QUESTION NOW: 24/25" bar for "harder diry/mudy" wood - RM with what sprocket??


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 21, 2008)

I think you might be confusing RM2 with "RM". RM is not a safety chain and is definitely used on even the largest saws...


I have no idea what you're refering to with the spur sprockets... not a Stihl IPL..

For you on 25 inch, just use a 7 -3/8 RIM system.


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## 4mocajuns (Dec 21, 2008)

What is the factory sprocket? Too cold to go out and check.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 21, 2008)

7


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## 4mocajuns (Dec 21, 2008)

thanks


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 21, 2008)

diesel&coffee said:


> can delete post after answer to keep thread clean... catalog does not have RM2 listed! Do you mean the RMC3 (low kickback) ?
> 
> Also I got some RMC - which "i hope" is the RM + comfort (low vib.).. ... are is there something diff about the RMC over RM that they don't say!!



RMC is the latest version of RM. Just the heels of the cutter is slightly relieved. No difference in cutting.

RMC3 has replaced RM2, but here still some RM2 floating around a few dealers. RMC3 is a decent chain.


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## scotclayshooter (Dec 21, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> RMC is the latest version of RM. Just the heels of the cutter is slightly relieved. No difference in cutting.
> 
> RMC3 has replaced RM2, but here still some RM2 floating around a few dealers. RMC3 is a decent chain.



RMC3 is decent for what? fishing weights  
Ahh Homeowner saws.


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 21, 2008)

correct great Northern One!!


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 21, 2008)

if you don't bore you won't notice any real difference.


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## windthrown (Dec 21, 2008)

*RM2 vs RM Stihl chain*

RM2 was the older safety chain that Stihl stopped making about a year ago. It has the same cutters and shape as RM, but RM2 has guard links between the cutter links. It is not in the catalog any more, but there are still dealers with rolls of the stuff out there. Also a lot of Stihl saws wearing them. I have several RM2 loops that came with my saws originally. Even on the the 28 inch "non-safety" ES Stihl bar! I save them for cutting in really crappy conditions, like in mud and any potential naily trees. 

Last I tried to get RMC they said it was not available in 3/8 .050. Only in .325. I would like to try some of that stuff if it is available in standard 3/8.


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## SawTroll (Dec 21, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> if you don't bore you won't notice any real difference.




Probably not, unless for chip clearance on longer chains, but I don't want to find out (the RSC3 isn't sold here anyway, nor was the RM2).


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## SawTroll (Dec 21, 2008)

windthrown said:


> ....
> 
> Last I tried to get RMC they said it was not available in 3/8 .050. Only in .325. I would like to try some of that stuff if it is available in standard 3/8.



Fits with whe the web-site say - still no RMC in 3/8"...... :monkey:


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## splittah (Dec 21, 2008)

Excellent thread windthrown!  

Good to see all the goodies for my saw in one convenient place. :biggrinbounce2: 

Thanks and happy holidays to you.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 21, 2008)

SawTroll said:


> Stihl or Oregon rims make no difference, they actually look like they are made the same place.........




For the past few years, they are...


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## SawTroll (Dec 21, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> For the past few years, they are...



I guess they all are Oregons, really - and that the cheaper ones offered by Baileys are GB ones.


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## windthrown (Dec 21, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> For the past few years, they are...



Hmmm, I noticed that an Oregon 7 pin that I got was not of the same quality as the stock one. It had a crack in the side, so I returned it.


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## SawTroll (Dec 21, 2008)

windthrown said:


> Hmmm, I noticed that an Oregon 7 pin that I got was not of the same quality as the stock one. It had a crack in the side, so I returned it.




Could just as well have been a Stihl branded one, as far as I know.....


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 21, 2008)

windthrown said:


> Hmmm, I noticed that an Oregon 7 pin that I got was not of the same quality as the stock one. It had a crack in the side, so I returned it.



maybe Stihl takes only the best:greenchainsaw:


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## windthrown (Dec 21, 2008)

I dunno, comparing the stock rim to the Oregon one, the Oregon one was not finished as well, and it had the hairline crack in it. I will have to get some more rims down at the Stihl shop in Cottage Grove where I get my RM loops made. They seem to have an old cashe of rims and chain there.


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## volks-man (Dec 21, 2008)

windthrown said:


> I dunno, comparing the stock rim to the Oregon one, the Oregon one was not finished as well, and it had the hairline crack in it. I will have to get some more rims down at the Stihl shop in Cottage Grove where I get my RM loops made. They seem to have an old cashe of rims and chain there.



shoot one over this way while your at it

lake might have been kiding but stihl may get only the best. who knows they might run over a scale and auto sorter, could be........


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## windthrown (Dec 21, 2008)

Well, the price for Stihl rims at the dealer and the price of Oregon rims on Bailey's is about the same. Add the cost of shipping, and it seems to be a no-brainer to get the rims here (no sales tax in this state).


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## SawTroll (Dec 21, 2008)

windthrown said:


> I dunno, comparing the stock rim to the Oregon one, the Oregon one was not finished as well, and it had the hairline crack in it. I will have to get some more rims down at the Stihl shop in Cottage Grove where I get my RM loops made. They seem to have an old cashe of rims and chain there.




The ones I have studied under a magnifying glass, look _exactly_, repeat _exactly_ the same, except for the logo.


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## windthrown (Dec 21, 2008)

Well, maybe I got a bad Oregon rim. But if the logo is different, then the casting must have been in a different run.  

They are cheap enough not to woory about. Now on to some more spendy options on the 361 (if the power does not go out here again today).


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## 2dogs (Dec 21, 2008)

Re the Stihl 3/4 wrap handle, as noted in the kit, it needs a spacial bar wrench. Unlike the bigger saws there is not enough room for the regular wrench. I just cut down several large Husky wrenches to work only on Stihl bar nuts. The Stihl wrench is a goofy looking thing that works fine but is not too compact.


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## Haywire Haywood (Dec 21, 2008)

I'm outta bullets Windthrown, nice thread.  

Ian


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 21, 2008)

WIND

I will check on the RMC 050 Monday and post.. I thought I heard him say which one do you want?? I have a box of 36RMC right there.. Will post...

ps: If I can get a box of 050 i would send it 2 u for a flat $20 .. I would eat the rest - consider it a Xmas box!!! After all the knowledge/experience that is put forth there!

3652 005 0066 = my box!


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## BloodOnTheIce (Dec 21, 2008)

Man I'm behind the times I need to spiffy up my 361.


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## Erick (Dec 21, 2008)

windthrown said:


> This is the Stihl part number for the dual dog and chain roller kit for the 361 from the IPL.
> 
> 1135 650 7750
> 
> ...



Just thought you guys might want to see the 361 spike kit for real, I really like it.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 21, 2008)

2dogs said:


> Re the Stihl 3/4 wrap handle, as noted in the kit, it needs a spacial bar wrench. Unlike the bigger saws there is not enough room for the regular wrench. I just cut down several large Husky wrenches to work only on Stihl bar nuts. The Stihl wrench is a goofy looking thing that works fine but is not too compact.



The bar wrench in the kit is actually the 084 full wrap wrench - they resurrected it for the 361 3/4 wrap.


The MSRP out here is $124 for the entire kit.


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## Trigger-Time (Dec 21, 2008)

Later 361's, come with holes drilled in clutch cover all the way through
for outside spike. Don't know when this started, but the one I just bought has through holes.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 21, 2008)

*Bar studs*

Another mod (now factory) for 361's made prior to early the year -the bar studs...







The rest of the story:


http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=38783


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## Gologit (Dec 21, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Another mod (now factory) for 361's made prior to early the year -the bar studs...
> 
> 
> 
> ...




That was one of the best, and easiest, off all the 361 mods. I put them on my 066, too. Lots less wear and tear on the collar.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 21, 2008)

Yep... I put them on all my saws! and so does Stihl now...


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## windthrown (Dec 21, 2008)

*Bar stud upgrade for the 361*

To replace your bar studs with the new type now standard on the new 361s, the Stihl part number is: 

1138 664 2400

Supposed to be a couple bucks each at the dealer (wow, that is cheap, need a more spendy upgrade  ).


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## blsnelling (Dec 21, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Yep... I put them on all my saws! and so does Stihl now...



+1. Same here. Makes putting the bar and chain on so nice.


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## serial killer (Dec 22, 2008)

windthrown said:


> These are the part numbers for the 361 rims from the Stihl IPL:
> 
> 0000 042 1216 1 Rim sprocket 3/8" 8T
> 0000 042 1223 1 Rim sprocket 3/8" 7T <------ stock rim for the 361
> ...



A 9 pin .325 sprocket is actually almost the same diameter as an 8 pin 3/8" so they create about the same "gear ratio" in terms of chain speed. I usually run a 7 with a 20" bar, but it can pull an 8 if you use a light touch. With anything shorter, it's an 8 (3/8) or a 9 (.325). I have had excellent results with a 9 pin and a 16" bar with .325 chain.


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 22, 2008)

Serial - 

so is the general rule with a 16/18" bar to use a 8t rim?? What kind of wood are you cutting
up there on the east coast?? I had them put a 18" bar on when I bought my saw - but I
think they may have forgot 2 change out my rim - or didnot know it all ??


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 22, 2008)

*25" 050 Bar Part #*

Andy / Wind

found book but have a real question!

I wanted to use 28" bar "a few" times with my 361 until I get a 460.. reason is I need to make a "clean" cut on some big rounds - meaning a good through cut - if I can find them - they are for my splitting block!! Then when I get my larger saw I already will have a 28" bar.. Or is the 28" too much for a 361 in hardwood with a RMF chain every once in a while! I may NOT need the the extra length - but then again it may make the cut a lot easier in the way of not having the bar totally baried in the wood...

anything on the rim tooth #

Also I really don't want to start buying diff bars until I find out which way I going with diff bars.. **** THE RMF BEING SOLD ONLY IN 050 is ONE reason to make all my bars 050...


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 22, 2008)

RM and RMF make a cut as clean as RS or RSC... cuts maybe 10% slower at first but it cuts a lot longer between sharpenings. I find RM/RMF to be the best general purpose chain. I use chisel only in clean standing wood - then it shines..

For occassional use, 28 with full skip is o.k. on a 361.. not a steller performer, requries a light touch, but it works.

361 - 7 pin rim unless you are below 20 inches.


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## Trigger-Time (Dec 22, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> The bar wrench in the kit is actually the 084 full wrap wrench - they resurrected it for the 361 3/4 wrap.
> 
> 
> The MSRP out here is $124 for the entire kit.



I checked today, List here is $164


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## windthrown (Dec 22, 2008)

Sadly the pricing for Stihl dealer parts is by US region. For some Stihl parts they vary a lot. And they change over time. That is why I posted estimated parts costs, and not specifics.


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 23, 2008)

andy your mailbox is full! can't send mail until you do some cleaning !


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 23, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> The bar wrench in the kit is actually the 084 full wrap wrench - they resurrected it for the 361 3/4 wrap.
> 
> 
> The MSRP out here is $124 for the entire kit.




hows $185 !!!  need a dram of Laphroaig right now!


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## MRJ (Dec 23, 2008)

I think I remember reading about using the air cleaner and carb from a 440, or was it my imagination. What gains, without porting?


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## SawTroll (Dec 24, 2008)

serial killer said:


> A 9 pin .325 sprocket is actually almost the same diameter as an 8 pin 3/8" so they create about the same "gear ratio" in terms of chain speed. I usually run a 7 with a 20" bar, but it can pull an 8 if you use a light touch. With anything shorter, it's an 8 (3/8) or a 9 (.325). * I have had excellent results with a 9 pin and a 16" bar with .325 chain*.




I can imagine that, and I guess you need a 68dl chain for the 9-pin, at least with short bars.  

The 9-pin .325 actually should be *just a hair *larger than the 8-pin 3/8 one.


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## SawTroll (Dec 24, 2008)

diesel&coffee said:


> Serial -
> 
> so is the general rule with a 16/18" bar to use a 8t rim?? What kind of wood are you cutting
> up there on the east coast?? I had them put a 18" bar on when I bought my saw - but I
> think they may have forgot 2 change out my rim - or didnot know it all ??




Unlike Serial, I don't use an 8-pin with the 18" bar (mostly felling), but I do with the 15" (most bucking and limbing).

Wood is slowgrown birch.


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 24, 2008)

Thank you Northern One..

Gee - the rim questions seem like questions from a year ago.. Two days ago I never really thought about it.. Then I was going to get another bar - got thrown into the the rim question - and a few hours later fiqured most of it out. Thats fiqured out my need! 

Troll - do you CUT MUCH real hard wood up there??


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## mole1982 (Jan 5, 2009)

*Porting*

Any one have any pics of 361 port work, and some pointers??
Thanks


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## windthrown (Jan 5, 2009)

Here is a link to B. Snelling's _Snellerized _ (ported) MS 361 AS thread. It is fairly comprehensive, and only dabbles into getting hyjacked into an oil thread, and some Snelling-port bashing at the end by some goon: 

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=58352&highlight=361+porting


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## SawTroll (Feb 6, 2009)

diesel&coffee said:


> ....
> 
> Troll - do you CUT MUCH real hard wood up there??



Birch is hardwood, but surely not *real hard* - it is mostly "green" as well, not dry.


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## JJay03 (Mar 7, 2009)

Would love to mod my 361 soon but can decide where to start. Does adding the double doggs make it more of a pain to change the bar and chain? I also want to mod the muffler but not sure how I want to do it. Does anyone make a better aftermarket muffler?


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## Nuzzy (Mar 7, 2009)

JJay03 said:


> Does adding the double doggs make it more of a pain to change the bar and chain?




Nope.


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## JJay03 (Mar 13, 2009)

1 more thing about the double dogs cause I might order them tomorrow. Are they larger then the stock dog? Also you said its not an issue removing the cover with them do you still just take off the 2 bar buts and thats it? Just looks like there is a bolt connecting both dogs unless it just slides in.


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## occ3377 (Mar 13, 2009)

yeah it just slides into the inside (i think i cant remember for sure which one) dawg.


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## JJay03 (Mar 16, 2009)

Just ordered the dual dog kit and the spark screen and clip for the muffler mod. 
Dealer said the dog kit was only 32 dollars not too bad.


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## Jtheo (Mar 16, 2009)

windthrown said:


> I dunno, comparing the stock rim to the Oregon one, the Oregon one was not finished as well, and it had the hairline crack in it. I will have to get some more rims down at the Stihl shop in Cottage Grove where I get my RM loops made. They seem to have an old cashe of rims and chain there.



Is Rm chain faster cutting than RSC?

The chain that I am using now is marked 33RSC 3/8 pitch .050 gauge.


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## JJay03 (Mar 16, 2009)

Jtheo said:


> Is Rm chain faster cutting than RSC?
> 
> The chain that I am using now is marked 33RSC 3/8 pitch .050 gauge.


No the RM is slower you got the good one. Thats the same chain I have.


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## windthrown (Mar 16, 2009)

RM is slower, but it holds an edge longer. So good here is entirely dependant on the conditions that you cut in. I use RM most of the time becasue I tend to cut in cruddy conditions. Slash piles, thinning and limbing close to the ground, bucking up downed logs. Faster cutting chain is not always better. You need clean wood for running full chisel (RS) type chain.


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## Slamm (Mar 16, 2009)

windthrown said:


> RM is slower, but it holds an edge longer. So good here is entirely dependant on the conditions that you cut in. I use RM most of the time becasue I tend to cut in cruddy conditions. Slash piles, thinning and limbing close to the ground, bucking up downed logs. Faster cutting chain is not always better. You need clean wood for running full chisel (RS) type chain.



They say when working cattle, "Slower is faster.", LOL, in most cases I think this is the same with Chainsaw Chain. When cutting with Chisel little things that knock a 1/32" off the tip doesn't even bother Semi Chisel chain.

I worked for an Amish millionaire, walnut buyer and he hated Semi Chisel, we use to alway argue about it, but while his other guy was stopped, sharpening his chain I would still be making good chips, cause when you are digging trenches around the trunk to get that last inch of trunk and poking your bar in the dirty bark and root ball, you soon appreciate the beauty of the Semi-Chisel.

I noticed that falling work in Wisconsin as compared to southern Illinois the same breed of trees weren't nearly as hard in Southern Illinois as they were in Wisconsin. I remember cutting hard maple in Wisconsin and needing to touch up my chisel chain almost every tank full. Cutting oak in Southern Illinois, you could literally go the whole morning or most of it, with chisel and never have a problem. If I had to do Wisconsin all over I would have used Semi Chisel chain, cause the wood is much harder in those hills of South Western Wisconsin.

Sam


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## windthrown (Mar 16, 2009)

Slamm said:


> I worked for an Amish millionaire, ... ...
> Sam



Amish millionaire??? :monkey:

Wow, I learn something new every day. What did he spend his money on?


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## JJay03 (Mar 16, 2009)

I have 2 chains that came with my saw I know 1 is an rsc but im not sure of the other it might be a regular rs. Ill grab some pictures later.


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## mile9socounty (Mar 17, 2009)

MS361 options? Don't buy one with the Quick Stop get up. PITA to fix and adjust. Just my 2 cents.


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## Wild Knight (Mar 17, 2009)

Is there a dual port muffler option for this saw? Or, do you have to mod the stock muffler?


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## windthrown (Mar 17, 2009)

No dual port option on the 361. You have to modify the stock muffler, which is crimped together. Many 361 muffler modification threads on the subject. I posted some on this thread, but there are others if you do a search.


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## Justsaws (Mar 17, 2009)

windthrown said:


> Amish millionaire??? :monkey:
> 
> Wow, I learn something new every day. What did he spend his money on?



Forced free labor to make expensive pies.


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## JJay03 (Mar 20, 2009)

Installed the dog kit tonight and cleaned up the saw. Heres is some some pictures of it on my 361.


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## windthrown (Jun 3, 2009)

Bump...


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## hangnail (Jun 28, 2009)

any one know if there is anyone online selling the dual dawgs for the 361?

the stock one is a joke imo


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## Harzack223 (Jun 28, 2009)

I don't believe there is, you have to go to a dealer to order them.


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## Harzack223 (Jul 24, 2009)

*wrap kit with dogs*

I finally got my wrap kit today and just put it on. Will get to test it out tomorrow.


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## Evan (Jul 24, 2009)

that looks lik the 026-660 chancase cover.

dogs for those saws bolt on from the 026-660 id think the dawgs would work on the 361 to because that looks to be the same chaincase. 

im asking because the pics posted look like small dawgs. maybe the 361 has its own thing going on

there is difrence in dawg style on the 044-660 there3s few difrent dawgs. you just have to make sure you have matched set. 

ive got two sets of big dawgs they look the same hav the same mounting points but are sized slightly difrent.


dual dawgs do look good on the 361 and those dawgs pictired dont eat up to much of the cutting area of the bar.


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## Work Saw Collector (Jul 24, 2009)

Looks good, I have thought about getting one just a little high.


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## jasoutside (Jul 24, 2009)

hangnail said:


> any one know if there is anyone online selling the dual dawgs for the 361?
> 
> the stock one is a joke imo



I took off the big dual dogs off of my 066 and with a bit of modification they work perfect!


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## STIHLTHEDEERE (Jul 25, 2009)

Great thead,lots of useful info!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Kilkenny (Jul 25, 2009)

Great thread, I'm looking forward to upgrading my 361 in the near future.


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## cbolyard (Jul 25, 2009)

So I have a question for windthrown or other PNW 361 users. I'm hopefully picking up a 361 on Monday for my work saw. When I ordered it I asked to have a 25" full skip chain on it. Others on the site have mentioned that the saw is going to be horribly unbalanced with this length bar on it... just curious what other's experiences have been that have run a 25" on this saw. I didn't get the wrap handle (don't know that the boss man would want me spending that kind of $$$ on a saw that won't get used a whole lot) but I think I will get the dual dog kit. Would there be any good reason to have the dealer swap the 7 pin for the 8 pin sprocket when I pick it up?


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## Evan (Jul 25, 2009)

i havent seen the 361 listed to come with full wrap .

all stihl saws listed for full wrap come with big dawgs big chaincase and 3/4 wrap.

441 might not have a big chaincase.

im just asking because i follow stihl close and havent seen the 361 and full wrap ever mentioned together as factory option from stihl


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## madhatte (Jul 26, 2009)

cbolyard said:


> So I have a question for windthrown or other PNW 361 users. I'm hopefully picking up a 361 on Monday for my work saw. When I ordered it I asked to have a 25" full skip chain on it. Others on the site have mentioned that the saw is going to be horribly unbalanced with this length bar on it... just curious what other's experiences have been that have run a 25" on this saw. I didn't get the wrap handle (don't know that the boss man would want me spending that kind of $$$ on a saw that won't get used a whole lot) but I think I will get the dual dog kit. Would there be any good reason to have the dealer swap the 7 pin for the 8 pin sprocket when I pick it up?




My 361 has the 3/4 wrap handle and the dual dawgs. I swap back and forth between the 20" and 25" b/c as situation demands. I definitely prefer full-comp over skip on this saw with either bar length -- it gets the job done faster and stays sharp longer. 3/4 handle is very nice. There is an aftermarket full-wrap, too, but I don't like it at all. Stay with the 7-pin sprocket.


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## cbolyard (Jul 27, 2009)

madhatte said:


> My 361 has the 3/4 wrap handle and the dual dawgs. I swap back and forth between the 20" and 25" b/c as situation demands. I definitely prefer full-comp over skip on this saw with either bar length -- it gets the job done faster and stays sharp longer. 3/4 handle is very nice. There is an aftermarket full-wrap, too, but I don't like it at all. Stay with the 7-pin sprocket.



I'm used to full skip, that's what I run on my 044 wearing a 28" bar. Hopefully I get to pick the saw up today, I'll chat with the dealer on the full comp vs. skip and see what he recommends.


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## STIHLTHEDEERE (Jul 27, 2009)

evan said:


> i havent seen the 361 listed to come with full wrap .
> 
> All stihl saws listed for full wrap come with big dawgs big chaincase and 3/4 wrap.
> 
> ...



i have an ms 361 with a factory full wrap kit,& 25" bar w/ full skip.it is definately no 460,but it eats hardwood pretty good!


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## ridgeland (Aug 6, 2009)

So I ordered the full wrap kit from my local Stihl dealer on Tuesday. When I gave them the part numbers they asked if I was sure I wanted it, I said yes. Apparently when they placed the order Stihl asked them does he want this it is special order no return, they said yes he already paid. My dealer told me it would be here wendesday which it did not show up. The end of today rolls around and no kit. I called a buddy at another Stihl dealership in NC(I live in GA) and he told me when he called they told him it would take a month to get from their supplier. I am really confused, any input?


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## Harzack223 (Aug 6, 2009)

When I purchased my wrap kit it I was told it would take 3-4 weeks. So I waited and waited and then finally went back in probably 5 weeks later to see what was up. Apparently there was a problem and the item was never requested from the new england distributor. My dealer called someone at stihl and they had it for me 4 days later. Could be something like that or it may not be. Once you get it though you will wonder how you managed without it. To me it made a big difference and made me love the saw that much more.


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## ridgeland (Aug 6, 2009)

I really can't wait to get the kit on the saw, even though I am left handed I have learned to use many tools with my less dominant hand. Does the wrap make it difficult to remove the chain cover? Does the scrench in the kit work on the sparkplug as well or will I need a second one? What are the pluses to the kit?
I was a little hesitant about the 361, alot of people complaining it was hard to start, but the price on the used one was hard to pass up. And so far I have not had any issues starting it.


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## MS390 (Feb 21, 2010)

*3/4 wrap handle,is it worth the money??*



Harzack223 said:


> I finally got my wrap kit today and just put it on. Will get to test it out tomorrow.



is the 3/4 handle worth it? and what makes it better?

I want the double dogs and maybe the kit with the 3/4 handle.....

what is your opinion???

sorry about the bad english,should I try in Danish??:check: LOL


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## 777ER (Feb 22, 2010)

MS390 said:


> is the 3/4 handle worth it? and what makes it better?
> 
> I want the double dogs and maybe the kit with the 3/4 handle.....
> 
> ...



Can't speak for the handle but the double dogs from STIHL rocks!

It's worth it.


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## JJay03 (Feb 5, 2011)

Any new mods out there for the 361?


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## windthrown (Mar 29, 2014)

Here is the StihlBilly shark gill muffler mod for the 361. Its easy to do and only takes 20 minutes or less. Cut slits in the lower right side of the muffler as seen in the photo. Then pry them open with a flat tipped screwdriver. Then re-tune the saw with the limiter tabs removed from the jet screws. It will need to be tuned richer (or it will run lean and overheat and score and turn to toast).




This of course does not have a muffler screen. You can screen it over and use a Husky muffler baffle to cover it with and use 2 screws to keep it in place.


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## WoodTruk (May 1, 2016)

Windthrown, I copied your fish-gill mod on my 361. Before I did, the saw was tuned to a slight blubber on WOT, no load. This translated into a clean 2 stroke sound in the cut. Now, after the muffler mod, what do I need to do with the carb? Can I still tune it to a slight blubber again? Or have things changed and now tuning by sound isn't a good idea? I don't have a tach (yet, looking for one now), but i don't think the rpms have increased very much at WOT. I guess what I'm asking is: What exactly do you mean by 'tuned richer'? I also know richer/leaner means fuel/air, not fuel/oil, but I'm running standard 50:1 mix if that's needed info. I just don't want to burn up my saw.
Thx in advance!


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## SawTroll (May 1, 2016)

WoodTruk said:


> Windthrown, I copied your fish-gill mod on my 361. Before I did, the saw was tuned to a slight blubber on WOT, no load. This translated into a clean 2 stroke sound in the cut. Now, after the muffler mod, what do I need to do with the carb? Can I still tune it to a slight blubber again? Or have things changed and now tuning by sound isn't a good idea? I don't have a tach (yet, looking for one now), but i don't think the rpms have increased very much at WOT. I guess what I'm asking is: What exactly do you mean by 'tuned richer'? I also know richer/leaner means fuel/air, not fuel/oil, but I'm running standard 50:1 mix if that's needed info. I just don't want to burn up my saw.
> Thx in advance!



It basically is about opening the H screw of the carb slightly, letting a little more fuel in. Tuning by sound should be fine - but it always is nice to confirm that the max rpm isn't going wild with a tach.


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## WoodTruk (May 1, 2016)

Thanks, SawTroll. I had occasion to have it at the elevation I do most of my cutting in today. At elevation, with the mod and no carb tune, it sounded a little too blubbery and RPM's seemed to be a bit low from what it was before the muffler mod. I tuned it (H screw clockwise) until it was on the edge of blubber/2 stroke again. Sunk it in some old standing-dead oak and it seemed to cut well and almost perfectly 2-stroked while in the cut. RPM's in the cut while making the perfect 2-stroke sound seemed to be about 80% of the sound of max WOT with no load. This is a 20" bar and full comp chain, BTW. I'll run a tank through it this week and see what the plug looks like after that. As I understand it, the plug should be a tannish-cocoa brown, not white, not black. Once I decide on a tach, it'll be interesting to see how close my ear has tuned it. Seems to me that you probably can't go wrong with a slight blubber on the WOT. Isn't that indicative of on-the-edge of over-rich...a slight blubber?


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## windthrown (May 29, 2016)

I have been off the site to deal with my aging mother. Lots of doctors and hospitals and nurses. She is not going to be around much longer. But she is 90 and has lived a full life. 

Anyway, SawTroll pretty much mailed it. Though one thing to beware of, if you are tuning any saw at elevation, it will run lean if you drop in elevation. Air is thinner at elevation, and when you drop in elevation the air gets denser, and your saw will run leaner unless you re-tune it. I have seen near-new 361s fail from overheating being run at low elevation after being tuned at altitude (not mine, fortunately). I live in a widely variable elevation area in the Cascades, and I can go up 4000 ft in elevation here in a 30 minute drive, and drop 1000 ft in 10 minutes. So I re-tune my saws a lot. I also run them, a tad rich so when I drop 1000 feet to city level, my saws are OK. 

The burple/4-stroke tuning method takes a while to get used to, but the basic method as explained on the Madsens site here (probably THE best chainsaw carb tune post on the web): 

http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm


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