# Drying Sycamore (Plane) Upright.



## Joshua (Apr 19, 2007)

Hi, I am going to mill a sycamore butt. The tree died last year and the wood is already pretty dry (no sap at all)
I have read that drying sycamore with stickers can stain the wood so its best to dry the planks upright.
Anyone here done this ?


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 19, 2007)

I don't know about Ireland, but if you use DRY stickers in the first place, here in the states it works just fine!

The problem is, the wood is "pretty dry" on the outside, but it won't be on the inside!! I bet your going to have problems keeping it straight...

How are going to "weight it" if it's standing up???

Rob


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## Joshua (Apr 19, 2007)

Is sycamore prone to warping ? I can sticker it no problem, and weight it too
but I want to keep the wood looking nice and clean ( it will become our kitchen counter)
I thought that drying it upright sounded strange, but according to a couple of books I have it is done like that sometimes.


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## Sprig (Apr 19, 2007)

Upright drying is an old and tried 'n' true method of seasoning, usually done with stuff no thinner than 2" from what I understand, figure out what you want in the end sometimes you may want to dry 4 &1/2" thick then bandsaw or mill in half for nice clean surfaces later, a lot of variables here. Basically you build 2 'A' frames (at around 10-15 degees a side) with a base (so the wood is off the ground and not 'wicking' moisture) tied in with a (whatever) length you want your frame to be, alternate your boards from one side to the other (so they cross eacother) and not much more than 3-4 pieces leaning against eachother. Warping can be an issue but with sufficient thickness you should be able to plane it to proper dimensions imo. Personally I think a flat stack is better, especially with anything over 14-16ft long. As someone said previously it is best to use nice dry stickers every 1 1/2'-2' apart and close to either ends where weight will help prevent twist (I think pine or neutural woods (ie. no colors) works best) to prevent staining and make sure its off the ground. A couple of pieces of old tin roofing (or what-have you) to keep the rain etc. off (a barn is good lol) and try to keep it out of the direct sun but open to air, tarps are not always best as I think they can tend to pool/trap moisture and alter even drying. End-sealing will help prevent splits too, I prefer anything latex (left-over house paint w.h.y.) but in the mill it used to be red lead-based water soluable sealers (nice. not). Hm, all I can think of right now and since there is a limit to editing (really sucks imho) if I come up with more info I'll quote and update this. I am sure there are other ideas out there that will come forth.

 And happy milling!

Serge


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## Railomatic (Apr 20, 2007)

A guitar maker friend of mine uses sycamore for the sides and backs, he dries his boards upright and in thicker sections 4 inch, lets them dry naturally for several months before finishing them off in doors.

He turns the boards from time to time to face the sunlight and says sycamore turns dull in the light, then once properly seasoned he cuts the boards again just prior to using them before it turn off white again.

Does anyone know how to spot the trees with the best grain from say a sycamore before the log is cut ?.


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