# Best 2 stroke mix



## husqy254xp (Jan 23, 2018)

Hi guys, I have a couple of 254 XP's and a brand new 435 that I use for keeping the homefires burning and some occasional heavy duty farm use.

I always used to mix oil as per the mixer bottle lines (50:1 I think) but read something a week or so ago that people are running higher a % of oil, I just wanted to hear what the pro's had to say about this. At my current use I reckon my saws will last me for eon's, so if a little more oil is good then I would be keen.

Also, on the 435 - is there anything I can do to it to improve it without changing it too much - I don't want to run it harder than it should and risk killing it too early. From what I have read it is an entry level Husky saw and a decent saw - I like it but anything to watch for?


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## Weber_Steaks (Jan 23, 2018)

I bought a Husky 440 last fall and love it, i am not mixing anymore....i buy cans of True Fuel, its about $6.50 a can and that is enough for about 2 tank fulls....

There are a lot of benefits to this #1 no more mixing gas /oil.
#2 truefuel is PURE gas, and high octane.
#3 Truefuel has NO engine killing Ethanol in it 
#4 it contains a fuel stabilizer, so its safe to keep gas in tank up to 6months...
My saw starts easy, runs strong, no smoke and loves this fuel, for those that use their saw occasionally, i would definitely give it a try, comes in a steel can with screw on cap...( no gas cans leaking fuel vapors)

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## husqy254xp (Jan 23, 2018)

Weber_Steaks said:


> I bought a Husky 440 last fall and love it, i am not mixing anymore....i buy cans of True Fuel, its about $6.50 a can and that is enough for about 2 tank fulls....
> 
> There are a lot of benefits to this #1 no more mixing gas /oil.
> #2 truefuel is PURE gas, and high octane.
> ...



Thanks for the reply but at £45 for 1 litre I think I will stay well clear of it! It appears it is not readily available here in the Britain. £43 will buy me 37 litres of petrol!

We can buy ethanol free petrol in Britain (well you can around where I stay) so I don't need to worry much about that but I could see the benefit.


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## Weber_Steaks (Jan 23, 2018)

husqy254xp said:


> Thanks for the reply but at £45 for 1 litre I think I will stay well clear of it! It appears it is not readily available here in the Britain. £43 will buy me 37 litres of petrol!
> 
> We can buy ethanol free petrol in Britain (well you can around where I stay) so I don't need to worry much about that but I could see the benefit.


Hey, if you can buy Ethanol free fuel where you live, you are lucky and really do not need to buy the true fuel.....ethanol burns hotter and attracts water, thats why its bad on small gas engines, over time, ethanol based fuels will destroy rubber gaskets, seals etc and all sorts of issues over time, its a slow killer....

As far as extra oil, i ran a craftsman saw with a richer oil to gas ratio for 4 years ( by accident) and it ran fine, just a little smoke at startup until it warmed up but i wouldnt go too far, maybe an extra tablespoon at most per gallon of gas on a 50:1 saw? At most, you may have some oil leak from carb

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## ATH (Jan 23, 2018)

I have been very happy with Amsoil Sabre...started using it after I read a lot of good things about it.

I've also heard a lot of good things about Echo Red Armor and probably would have been using that all along, but can't find it locally, so I went with Sabre and haven't looked back.

If you want to waste several working days worth of hours, just do a search for which 2 cycle oil in the chainsaw section below. It has been discussed, discussed, then more and more.


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## Mustang71 (Jan 23, 2018)

We just finished an oil discussion in the firewood forum and here we are again another one. I use echo oil. The one with the stabilizer in it since I don't cut every week or month. I run 40:1 in all my saws with no issue. I also run ethanol free gas. 50:1 is probably fine for all saws now a days but for the exta pennies I'll take the insurance of a little extra lubricant. I used to run 50:1 with whatever oil was cheap and 87 octane gas with out any issues. Therefore I feel my method now is much better and should be issue free.

A saw in perfect condition with a sharp chain is fine with normal mix but what about those times when you have been cutting all day and the chain is getting dull and you are running the saw harder than you should. Cheap out on the oil and you will be doing a rebuild. Just my oppinion.


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## Ted Jenkins (Jan 24, 2018)

My experience has always been that a small % of ethanol is a very good thing in pure gasoline. Nothing will destroy a motor quicker than pure gasoline under certain conditions. Those conditions could be in a moist environment as an example. One drop of water in a carb will shut it down and ruin a carburetor with corrosion and possibly cause the engine to seize from incorrect fuel ratio. With a 6 to 10 % ethanol in gas almost all motors will be well served with perfection reducing problems that are related to moisture. Ethanol in race conditions at high altitudes is hard to beat. The timing can be right on the very edge of detonation because it burns so cool. What oil that is used is also a big factor. I have never liked full on synthetic, but many like it very much. So a consistent balance of of good oil with the proper ratio and adjustments will make a saw last longer than most could imagine. The ratio of oil and fuel with the right ratio of fuel mixture is a big big factor in how hot or cool the saw runs. From my pro days ethanol always came in at 110 octane which proved very useful. Saws in general are low low performing engines that can take a wide range of abuses and keep on running. When I go cutting I often cut for a few weeks at at time and my built in clock often is a six gallon jug in that when my jug is empty then it is time to pack up and go home. For those who like ketchup on their hamburgers, Ok if a little ketchup is good then how about a whole bottle. No the idea is a good balance of good oil good adjustments good ratios good fresh gas and good wood to cut. Thanks


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## Little Al (Jan 24, 2018)

Weber_Steaks said:


> Hey, if you can buy Ethanol free fuel where you live, you are lucky and really do not need to buy the true fuel.....ethanol burns hotter and attracts water, thats why its bad on small gas engines, over time, ethanol based fuels will destroy rubber gaskets, seals etc and all sorts of issues over time, its a slow killer....
> 
> As far as extra oil, i ran a craftsman saw with a richer oil to gas ratio for 4 years ( by accident) and it ran fine, just a little smoke at startup until it warmed up but i wouldnt go too far, maybe an extra tablespoon at most per gallon of gas on a 50:1 saw? At most, you may have some oil leak from carb
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy S6 using Tapatalk


Why when you buy gas in litres the same as we do where I live do you mess with tablespoon's of oil if you have one of the graduated oil measure in the cap of your mix oil marked in milli litres (ML ) 20 ,25, or 31.25 Ml's of oil per litre of Gas with give you 50 ,40 ,or 32/1 mix ratio


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## Benjamin S Pendleton (Jan 31, 2018)

Amsoil sabre oil mixed 100:1. Been running it in my saws for over a year even in the 120 heat of the summer with no problems. It's cheap with no smoke and the saws run better.


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## Little Al (Jan 31, 2018)

Benjamin S Pendleton said:


> Amsoil sabre oil mixed 100:1. Been running it in my saws for over a year even in the 120 heat of the summer with no problems. It's cheap with no smoke and the saws run better.


Be aware that despite their advertising " BLURB" if your saw has problems oil related they will NOT aid you any way financially


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## Benjamin S Pendleton (Jan 31, 2018)

Little Al said:


> Be aware that despite their advertising " BLURB" if your saw has problems oil related they will NOT aid you any way financially


 I did have a bg86 blower replaced under warranty due too a bad crank bearing and I was running 110 octane leaded racing fuel at 100:1. However I don't give a crap about the warranty as my stihl saws never give me problems. I usually buy slightly used at a fraction of the cost and run them until they fall apart.


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## husqy254xp (Jan 31, 2018)

Thanks for all the information. I will go into my local Husqvarna shop and see what they have on offer. I will look out for some of the above products.


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## ATH (Jan 31, 2018)

I stick with 50:1 even when using Sabre. It is not that much extra money for the protection.


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## Deleted member 117362 (Jan 31, 2018)

Little Al said:


> Be aware that despite their advertising " BLURB" if your saw has problems oil related they will NOT aid you any way financially


There is always someone running 100:1 in these threads. Like you, will pass on that. I know a Amsoil dealer, owns trucking and logging business, and it makes him shake his head.


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## Mustang71 (Jan 31, 2018)

I must be slow... either I missed it or no one ever answered the question of what's the benefit of 100:1 over manufacturer recommendation. Idc how good it is and what the company said you can run your saw at. How does it benefit you and how does 40:1 or 50:1 hurt your saw?

I don't think it was ever answered because there's no logical answer.


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## Benjamin S Pendleton (Jan 31, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> I must be slow... either I missed it or no one ever answered the question of what's the benefit of 100:1 over manufacturer recommendation. Idc how good it is and what the company said you can run your saw at. How does it benefit you and how does 40:1 or 50:1 hurt your saw?
> 
> I don't think it was ever answered because there's no logical answer.



I would never recommend running 100:1 with any oil other than amsoil. They tested their oils to exceed all manufactures minimum lubricicity at that ratio. That being said using less oil means lower costs and no smoke when running. I have seen first hand 2 stroke motors siezing up with to little oil. However I have never had any problems with amsoil 100:1 even in the 120 degrees of summer I have here in the sw.


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## Little Al (Feb 1, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> I must be slow... either I missed it or no one ever answered the question of what's the benefit of 100:1 over manufacturer recommendation. Idc how good it is and what the company said you can run your saw at. How does it benefit you and how does 40:1 or 50:1 hurt your saw?
> 
> I don't think it was ever answered because there's no logical answer.


It's a known fact that a more oil to fuel ratio within reason tuned correctly will make more power& increase the life span of the kit the Us & their emissions legislation was a lot to do with the minute oil amounts to qualify on the EPA rules this suited saw makers as the needed repair or replacement sooner = more sales There are the 100/1 believers & the the other end of the scale & it will never be resolved the only fact I can state is that running 2 smoke motors in a good few forms for the last 57 years at ratio's no further north than 35/1 I have never had an engine with oil related problem so each to his/her own belief but I'll stick to the low /mid 30's/1 fuel oil mix


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## husqy254xp (Feb 1, 2018)

I might not be an expert on small 2 stroke engines but what I am proficient in, due to the nature of my engineering business is machines, engines (big engines), lubricity, metallurgy, understanding how materials act and react together.

What I would say is that generally I would follow the 2 stroke mix ratio given by the manufacturer on any 2 stoke engine, if I were to ignore these recommendations it would be to increase the oil slightly. The oil is a total loss lubricant and by reducing the volume in the fuel you are generally going to reduce the ability for the oil to coat and protect the bearings, cylinder etc. The biggest issue with a reduced volume of oil is the ability to coat all the necessary parts in a film thick enough to offer adequate lubrication. 

We are sold a lot of snake oil additives and things these days and the jury is still out on their ability to make a marked difference, hopefully for the better, on wear and tear of engines and gearboxes and diffs etc. But I don't think any of us would condone the use of less engine oil in our car engine or gearbox, but use a good additive to make up for that.

If someone offered to me for sale a saw that I knew had been run on less oil than recommended I would walk away from it.


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## Benjamin S Pendleton (Feb 1, 2018)

I will say this, amsoil has had sabre oil on the market for a very long time. They have not removed it from the market after all that time because they did such extensive testing to make sure their product was going to provide adiquite lubrication even at such lean mixtures. All I have to go on for myself is that I have been using this 100:1 mixture in my saws blowers hedgers running both premium and 110 octane fuel in the dead of summer with temperatures even exceeding 120 degrees Fahrenheit and have not had any issues. I have pulled apart saws and found no abnormal wear. My saws run better and it costs me less money. I will never go back to conventional oil at this point.


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## ATH (Feb 1, 2018)

While I do run 50:1, Amsoil really doesn't have much motivation to "lie" about 100:1 being an effective ratio.
*It is not much more than anything else on the market, so it is not more expensive at 50:1 than other brands.
*They are selling less oil when people use 100:1 instead of 50:1.
*They will quickly develop a bad reputation if small engines running their oil start seizing up...so I can't imagine they would label it for that if they weren't confident it works based on having torn apart engines for comparative testing.


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## Mustang71 (Feb 1, 2018)

If cost is the only benefit then I will spend the extra money to not be rebuilding saws. My saws don't smoke at 40:1 new or old. Buy a flat blade screw driver and tune them. I bought my last thing of echo oil and 2 gallons of ethanol free gas last year. Still have 2 thirds of the oil and I need to buy gas. I cut a lot of wood on a container of oil. If cost is an issue buy an electric saw. Oil is good.


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## Wow (Feb 21, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> If cost is the only benefit then I will spend the extra money to not be rebuilding saws. My saws don't smoke at 40:1 new or old. Buy a flat blade screw driver and tune them. I bought my last thing of echo oil and 2 gallons of ethanol free gas last year. Still have 2 thirds of the oil and I need to buy gas. I cut a lot of wood on a container of oil. If cost is an issue buy an electric saw. Oil is good.


My experience:
Recently I was in Walmart and noticed premix for around 20 bucks a gallon.
At the rate I use petrol it would be insane for me to pay that much.
Once I bought NON ethanol petrol. Paid more for it. Mixed it properly, lost a string trimmer and a blower. Terrible stuff. 
Most equipment calls for 89 or above octane. Newer equipment (most times) has been upgraded to endure some alcohol. 
During cold weather I mix Midgrade at 40:1. In hot weather I use around 92 octane because it burns cooler. 
Every piece of equipment that I have is holding up well with 40:1 and having a single mix makes life easier. 
A big mistake is often in mixing. A gallon of gas is 128 ounces if we add 2.6 ounces to 128 ounces we've increased volume by 2.6 ounces. That is not a proper 50:1. 
I measure 128 ounces in a container with clear marking. Then I pour about 5 of those ounces in another clean container.
Next I add 3.2 ounces of oil and 1 ounce of Seafoam. I cap the mixed gas and shake well. Sit on a level shelf and wait for it to settle. It will then measure near the gallon mark, usually just a tad less.
Next I slowly add the fuel I previously removed from that gallon before anything was added. When that mixed fuel reaches exactly 1 gallon there will be 128 ounces of fuel. In that mix there will be 3.2 (40:1 mix) ounces of oil and 1 ounce of Seafoam.
The Seafoam will stabilize that gas for a full year. It will NOT alter the Octane. 
If I leave fuel in a seldom used saw, a year later I'll top off with fresh fuel and start the engine. My brother used Premix 50:1 from his Sthil dealer. Now, about a year of storage his seldom used Echo 600p won't start. 
This is my opinion. Others vary but I'll mix mine like this until I die. 
When I bought my 4 cycle Generator, I ran it without a load on a quart of my mixed fuel for break in. An old Mechanic taught me that trick. For his 4 cycle tools he always used some 2 cycle oil. Older 4 cycle engines used 4 ounces oil to 5 gallons of fuel. His opinion was all petrol came from oil and when refined to much oil is removed so he thought we need add a little back. However, only during break in or when I need to get rid of old 2 cycle fuel does mixed gas go into my riding mowers or generators. But Seafoam is used quite regularly. I was told - may not be true- that Seafoam actually helps stop the alcohol from damaging the rubber gas lines etc.


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## Little Al (Feb 21, 2018)

MR Wow How did you manage to "crock" a Blower/String Trimmer by using Non E Gas? All our Gas is E Free & we never have problems in a commercial logging set up I could understand if it was the other way around, also most quality oil contain a form of stabilizer so Seafoam is not a requirement ( just an up to you thing) If you are happy with your mix routine all is good but for a trying to make money business I think you are over thinking your mix regime I usually mix north of 25 litres a day we have a tank on the truck & I put in approx 12 litres of neat gas I have a clear container with a mark at 781.25 ML =32/1 ratio pour that in the tank & put in the rest of the gas to a total of 25 litres the action of the gas pump & the truck "joggling" about mixes the fuel we run a mix of standard & woods ported saws


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## anlrolfe (Feb 21, 2018)

Wow said:


> 1 gallon there will be 128 ounces of fuel. In that mix there will be 3.2 (40:1 mix) ounces of oil and 1 ounce of Seafoam.



Doesn't SeaFoam recommend substituting once-for-ounce as opposed to adding? Doesn't the 3.2oz + 1oz SeaFoam equate to 4.2oz of oil and a (30.5 : 1) mix ratio ???
I agree if you like your equipment that oil if cheap insurance. I don't think I should need to determine the atomic weight and and molar concentration for my mix oil solution.


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## Mustang71 (Feb 21, 2018)

Idk I used to be real great at math but I don't do much of it anymore. Anyways 128/3.2=40 so that's 40 ounces of gas to 1 ounce of oil. I don't think it will hurt to do 125 ounces of gas plus 3.2 ounces of oil but that's now 40 to 1 it's 39 to 1. I wouldn't use seafoam, the echo oil I buy stabilizes the fuel but that's up to you.

I put old mix fuel into my generator when I have it because that thing runs a lot when the power is out and it's not going to hurt.


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## anlrolfe (Feb 21, 2018)

My truck eats old 2-cycle just fine. A gallon or two into the better part of a tank full is unnoticeable for the most part once or twice per year. I usually think about it before a long trip as well.

I'm not one to go crazy measuring and mixing things out exactly. I don't burn through a ton of 2-cycle fuel and either get a name brand like Stihl, Husky or make sure that the rating of off brand & generic brands reflects a quality oil for air cooled engines. Wonder how many people have ruined air cooled engines with season clearance of bulk quantity outboard boat oil???


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## Wow (Feb 21, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> Idk I used to be real great at math but I don't do much of it anymore. Anyways 128/3.2=40 so that's 40 ounces of gas to 1 ounce of oil. I don't think it will hurt to do 125 ounces of gas plus 3.2 ounces of oil but that's now 40 to 1 it's 39:1 QUOTE]
> 
> Your math looks correct to me. That's the reason I never add 3.2 ounces of oil to 128 ounces.
> I measure 128 then remove about 5 ounces. After the 2 cycle oil is added , shook and settled gas is added back to the mix so the entire content with oil and Seafoam becomes a total of 128 ounces. Adding 4.2 ounces of oil to 128 ounces makes 132.2 ounces of liquid. 132/3.2 = 41.3. Seafoam isn't a 2 cycle oil so I don't figure it. I try for a precise mix everytime that way I'm not retuning. I could be doing the math wrong but it seems like net content divided by additive would equal ratio. My brother was mixing 2.6 ounces of oil in 128 ounces for a 50:1. But with oil added the net content became 130.6 ounces. I figured 130.6/2.6=50.1 but 128/2.6= 49.2. not much different but still not Exact but error on the safe side. Then there is always that oil left in the bottle. A few drops but it changes the mix. You guessed it, I also wash the bottle. Ha. Ha. That straight gas I bought may have just been bad gas. I've bought gas in my truck before and had to add Seafoam to smooth the engine. I may buy some high octane straight gas next time in Shreveport. In this small town you really never know what you are getting. The pump where I got the bad straight gas didn't even have Octane rating displayed. It was so old I couldn't use a credit card. Probably, I'm splitting hairs with the measurements but I would never substitute Seafoam or any additive for proper oil. Good day.


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## Benjamin S Pendleton (Apr 26, 2018)

Not starting a war here but I run 110 leaded fuel at amsoil 100:1 in all my stihl equipment in the 120 degree summers yes you read that right with no problems. It ends up saving me money because even though the oil is a little more expensive I use less of it. Like I said I'm not here to start a war.


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## Wow (Apr 26, 2018)

Benjamin S Pendleton said:


> Not starting a war here but I run 110 leaded fuel at amsoil 100:1 in all my stihl equipment in the 120 degree summers yes you read that right with no problems. It ends up saving me money because even though the oil is a little more expensive I use less of it. Like I said I'm not here to start a war.



I appreciate your attitude. In my opinion if someone gets offended by your choices they are immature.
Sthil makes such a good saw and Amsoil makes such a good oil good results are highly possible.
Life isn't actually a one size fits all though. A different saw, a different oil and everything could come tumbling down.
I'd definitely not try that on a cheap saw, Poulan comes to mind. Years ago I got a used Poulan 2150. That was back when Poulan was actually built in Shreveport LA. not far from my house. Those were great little saws. Someone told me Home light built their motors back then, don't quote me on that. The saw had no anti-vibration and for that reason alone, I started using a Sthil 024 more often but used the crap out of the poulan. 
A excellent saw mechanic lived 20 miles from me and worked on Poulan saws. After a few years of hard use by the previous owner the pull rope was frayed so I took the saw in his shop. The mechanic fixed that and I ask him his opinion of the saw. After a close inspection he started filling the fuel tank so he could run the saw. I was not expecting that so I ask him about the fuel mix and got a sermon. 
Four, 4, ounces of oil in every gallon mid grade or better gas EVERY TIME ,EVERY SAW EVERY BRAND.
He was emphatic. Turns out that subject was his pet peeve. He definitely impressed me and like a good boy I followed the rules until I bought a weed eater. Then the premix bottle came along with the bubble that let you add 3.2 ounces of oil per gallon. That became my personal choice even for my outboard boat motor. I think it's all about choices.
I've run ethanol for years and added 1 ounce of Seafoam per gallon into the fuel keeping the gallon a true 128 ounces by mixing half a gallon then after oil and Seafoam is added add ethanal to the 128 ounce mark on my mixing jug.
Recently, I located a place that sells non-ethanal in high octane. It's a 60 mile drive but once every few weeks I drive past there so now, it's still 3.2 ounces of oil, 1 ounce of Seafoam and 128 ounces of pure Gas. So far,,, I can't tell a difference. Except, the fuel cap on an older saw seems to have swelled. It was getting hard to remove. Thinking it's a result of ethanol the cap has been removed and is drying out. Before I blame ethanol I'm also looking hard at Seafoam. In time that will be solved.
Good luck with your choices and thanks for sharing. Good day


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## ATH (Apr 26, 2018)

Amsoil says you can run 100:1. Seems like they have the most to lose if it goes south, so I believe them. I still run it 50:1. In the bigger picture, that extra cost is almost nothing. An hour of down time messing with a saw more than pays for all the oil I'll use in more than a year... My own risk/reward balance I guess.


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## Mustang71 (Apr 26, 2018)

I have saws of all ages and different brands. I have no issue with 40:1 echo oil and ethanol free gas. Run what u want I don't care but don't tell me you do it to save money. You want to save money? Throw the supertech 2 stroke oil in and run it. I save money by burning fire wood i cut not by thinning out the mix.


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## ATH (Apr 26, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> I have saws of all ages and different brands. I have no issue with 40:1 echo oil and _*ethanol free gas*_. Run what u want I don't care but don't tell me you do it to save money. You want to save money? Throw the supertech 2 stroke oil in and run it. I save money by burning fire wood i cut not by thinning out the mix.


My guess is good gas has more to do with it than changes between quality oils... Also more expensive - also worth it.


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## Benjamin S Pendleton (Apr 26, 2018)

ATH said:


> Amsoil says you can run 100:1. Seems like they have the most to lose if it goes south, so I believe them. I still run it 50:1. In the bigger picture, that extra cost is almost nothing. An hour of down time messing with a saw more than pays for all the oil I'll use in more than a year... My own risk/reward balance I guess.


Well you have to admit that when you burn 5 gal of fuel a week 2 stoke oil adds up quick.


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## ATH (Apr 26, 2018)

Benjamin S Pendleton said:


> Well you have to admit that when you burn 5 gal of fuel a week 2 stoke oil adds up quick.


Yes and no....More volume should be more income. More income should still mean cost of 2 stroke oil is a drop in the bucket of the overall budget.


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## Pennyless (May 20, 2018)

I run Klotz in every 2 stroke engine I've ever owned. Do I need to mix it at 40:1? No. Does running more oil in the gas hurt anything? Depends on the oil you use. With Klotz, and I'm talking about 35+ years of building and running racing engines, I've yet to tear down an engine to re-ring it and find more than a small spot of carbon on the top of the piston. Very small. I'm suppose to mix the oil 50:1. I see these claims by Amsoil and their loyals of running 100:1. Klotz can also easily be used at this ratio and Klotz acknowledges this. They won't do something like promote it because all it's going to take is a bunch of blown engines for everyone to blame the oil used. I look at it this way .... I'd rather change a spark plug than have to rebuild an engine. Lean is mean, but only for a short time. To each their own on this subject I think but the question was would it hurt to run more oil ... the short answer is "no it will not".


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## Wow (May 21, 2018)

Little Al said:


> MR Wow How did you manage to "crock" a Blower/String Trimmer by using Non E Gas? All our Gas is E Free & we never have problems in a commercial logging set up I could understand if it was the other way around, also most quality oil contain a form of stabilizer so Seafoam is not a requirement ( just an up to you thing) If you are happy with your mix routine all is good but for a trying to make money business I think you are over thinking your mix regime I usually mix north of 25 litres a day we have a tank on the truck & I put in approx 12 litres of neat gas I have a clear container with a mark at 781.25 ML =32/1 ratio pour that in the tank & put in the rest of the gas to a total of 25 litres the action of the gas pump & the truck "joggling" about mixes the fuel we run a mix of standard & woods ported saws


You are correct. Recently I've gone back to non ethanol gasoline.
Loving it. The GOOD stuff is almost 100 drive, 50ish each way, BUT my schedule has changed and I'm passing by that gas station about 1 time a month now so gave it a try. High Octane too.
I'm of the opinion where I bought the bad gas, sold me bad gas. The pump is so old it won't accept a credit card. The store is old and the fuel tank may be leaking. It's a stand alone tank and states Pure Gas on the pump. I don't member but I think it's low Octane. That's been 12 or 15 years ago. Hard to recall everything except my unpleasant experience. As far as it goes he's the only local vender that advertising pure Gas. I fully agree with you also about Seafoam. Now that I'm getting good high octane pure gasoline the Seafoam won't be needed. Old habits etc, I'm tempted to add half an ounce to a gallon instead of the full one ounce. Not sure HOW or IF, Seafoam effects the tuning of the saw. It MAY run cooler without Seafoam at all. Thanks.


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## JTM (May 21, 2018)

Wow said:


> My experience:
> Recently I was in Walmart and noticed premix for around 20 bucks a gallon.
> At the rate I use petrol it would be insane for me to pay that much.
> Once I bought NON ethanol petrol. Paid more for it. Mixed it properly, lost a string trimmer and a blower. Terrible stuff.
> ...


Counting sea foam as a fuel component your mixing method makes a 39:1 ratio.


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## Wow (May 21, 2018)

JTM said:


> Counting sea foam as a fuel component your mixing method makes a 39:1 ratio.


Next batch I'll try it without Seafoam since I'm now using only one pure Gas to mix. 
The OTHER big question will be,. by leaving the Seafoam out, how does that effect my carb settings. 
That will be figured out after the fuel is mixed. 
Danged, my right hand is hurting again. I'm getting to old. Was supposed to take a tree down for a guy today but think I'll wait a few more days. Good day.


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## rngrchad (Jun 4, 2018)

50:1 Belray H1r. Ran both leaded race gas, and unleaded 90 pump gas. As well as non-ethanol 90 pump gas. All 3 saws are more than 5 years old. They all run well. When the belray h1r is all used up, I'll be back to 1 stihl silver bottle per gallon. Tuned right, your saw should go fine from 32:1 to 100:1. Anything above 40:1 I think should be the synthetic premix's however. Remember, if you arn't mix'n gas, you aren't kick'n ass. lol


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