# how to grind stumpgrinder teeth/ maintain grinder



## southsoundtree (Apr 18, 2008)

I've just bought a Rayco 1620 SuperJr. 1993. It has worn teeth. Looking for advice on removing the teeth-- I understand they need to be torched off sometimes. Will a propane torch do it? Do I need more?

How about the actual grinding. I gather that I need a green wheel on a bench grinder. Any way to grind on the machine?

What about even grinding for balance when spinning?

Tricks for re-install. Is light duty Loctite necessary? Anti-seize compound like on spark plugs??


Any suggestions on how often to change the hydraulic fluid/ filter? engine oil?


thanks!


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## BC WetCoast (Apr 19, 2008)

southsoundtree said:


> I've just bought a Rayco 1620 SuperJr. 1993. It has worn teeth. Looking for advice on removing the teeth-- I understand they need to be torched off sometimes. Will a propane torch do it? Do I need more?
> 
> How about the actual grinding. I gather that I need a green wheel on a bench grinder. Any way to grind on the machine?
> 
> ...



Never worked with Rayco teeth, but with a Vermeer, the holes in the Allen bolts would get worn and I would have to burn them out. Needed a cutting torch.

For grinding teeth, I use two wheels, a regular grinding wheel to remove some of the backing steel behind the carbide and then a green wheel for the carbide. The green wheel is very dusty, use a mask. And the wheel is used up quickly, especially for grinding normal steel.

If you look at the machinery section of AS, I think I remember talk about a diamond wheel on an angle grinder. I don't remember how well it worked. There isn't a lot of threads about a 'miracle diamond wheel' so I suspect there isn't one yet.

When you think about the violence that is exerted on the teeth and wheel when it is grinding, I don't think balance caused by uneven grinding of the teeth is a significant issue. If you break a tooth, then you can feel difference.

I use anti-seize on the bolts. I have to change teeth every 3-4 days. 

The owners manual will tell you how often to change fluids.

If you are new to grinding, read some of the past threads on my ideas of bidding jobs, ie don't use the $/in method. You get screwed on the larger sized stumps.

Happy grinding.


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## ropensaddle (Apr 19, 2008)

My lungs are too important to try grinding teeth. I find replacing the carbide best for me. I have a sharpening service that replaces them locally and it is at least half cost and renews them.


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## Dadatwins (Apr 19, 2008)

southsoundtree said:


> I've just bought a Rayco 1620 SuperJr. 1993. It has worn teeth. Looking for advice on removing the teeth-- I understand they need to be torched off sometimes. Will a propane torch do it? Do I need more?



What type tooth/pocket system are you running? If you do not know post a picture and we can tell you. Do not use any loc-tite on any cap screws. Never seize on the caps screws is a MUST on whatever system you use.


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## southsoundtree (Apr 19, 2008)

Thanks for the input so far. 

I figured getting the teeth off is more problematic than keeping them on.

I have the old pocket style teeth now. Thinking about putting on SuperTeeth. Don't know if I can use the new GreenTeeth with the three cutting surfaces. Pro's and Con's???

Anybody price by the square inch at the ground cut with a specific depth. 

What Depth do you all usually grind to?

How much do you dig around your stumps?
Here, there's a mix of soils. Some rocky, some not. I know that knowing different areas will come with the experience working in such areas. I figure this plays into digging. 

How many of you backfill with soil, or haul off the chips typically? How much do you charge extra as a proportion?


What wording do you use to specify whether you will chase surface root or just the main stump?

Thanks.


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## ropensaddle (Apr 20, 2008)

southsoundtree said:


> Thanks for the input so far.
> 
> I figured getting the teeth off is more problematic than keeping them on.
> 
> ...



Advise always chase the roots, charge for it but do it, it is not worth
the bad rep to half as? do the job. If you clean up charge for it it is
more than the grind for me. Charge for topsoil as well it will cost you
and takes time. As far as digging I get the bigger rocks and go to town
or I would charge for that as well. Only we can change the profit in
our profession, if we charge fair but adequate our industry will survive,
if we cut each others heads we all go down the drain.


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## WolverineMarine (Apr 21, 2008)

southsoundtree said:


> I've just bought a Rayco 1620 SuperJr. 1993. It has worn teeth. Looking for advice on removing the teeth-- I understand they need to be torched off sometimes. Will a propane torch do it? Do I need more?
> 
> How about the actual grinding. I gather that I need a green wheel on a bench grinder. Any way to grind on the machine?
> 
> ...



I have 97' 1625 Super Jr. and here is my advice..as its been brought up..you MUST use never seize or you will wish you had..look into a 1/2" drive air/electric impact wrench to speed removal and reinstall of the bolts. I have looked into sharpening my teeth while still on the machine...I haven't found the green silicone grinding wheel in anything less a 6"..and I did some intensive internet research..plus..I don't think you could get as nice a job done on the tooth if you left it on the machine even if you could find something. If you do elect to grind your own..get a dust mask..carbide dust is horrible for your lungs...another alternative is to have the tips replaced..it costs me $3 a tooth for a resharpen(and there's 18 of them on my machine)..or $4 for a totally new tip..the uniformity of the new tip is alot better than a re sharp. Now..greenteeth..I have read NUMEROUS pros and cons..and I have to agree with the masses..I will be switching to green teeth..this is a matter of simple math..after initial investment for a set for my machine..approx $320..I will be using the 700 series tap and turns...now...ya get a new 3 sided tooth for 4 bucks...that's 3 times the cut for the same $4 bucks and as a re tipped super tooth...and it'll cut your grind time down dramatically as I have found with my machine...again...seems like simple math to me..

Oil/filter changes..my dealer told me every 25 hrs...I looked at the oil at 25 and it was still golden..so I went to 50hrs..

Air filter..I'm gonna say replace at 100hrs..blow it out every...10 or so..that little 20hp engine needs all the air it can get to stay productive

Hydraulic oil..depending on usage...once a year for full timers..every 2 yrs for part timers...


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## WolverineMarine (Apr 21, 2008)

southsoundtree said:


> Thanks for the input so far.
> 
> I figured getting the teeth off is more problematic than keeping them on.
> 
> ...



I typically charge by the inch arcoss the diameter of the stump..w/o going into my rates..I charge a certain amount per inch to grind the stump, leaving the chips..and basic clean-up...I add a $1 an inch for chip removal..best thing I have found to tote the chips are those big rubbermaid trash cans and a nice stout 2 wheel cart/dolly..
I will bring dirt and grass seed in for smaller jobs..but I dont have the equipment to do anything large scale..and I typically charge a guestimated amount to do it for time and material..say..$25 for a smaller stump..to $50 or more for something larger.
I usually dont do too much in the way of digging around unless something catches my eye..ask the homeowner for the location of utilities..if they dont know...call the state utility marking service..in Ohio here its Oups..its a free service..and it will save your bacon so you dont cut into a buried phone, gas, water, or sewer line...if you hit something..you WILL pay for it..and possibly face a fine.
My machine, as I mentioned before is a 1625 Super Jr. and I like to take a stump down 8-12inches below grade unless the home owner specifys otherwise.
Terminology for those roots you asked about are called girdling(like a ladies girdle) roots..I like to try and chase down the bigger ones(wrist sized or so) a couple feet if the homeowner plans to plant flowers of another tree in the future.
One more thing I find annoying and will charge for is if the h/o leaves a stump more than say..3-4inches higher than grade...I have a nice Sthil chain saw I always take with me for such occassions..and will tac on an extra $10-25 for the trouble.
That should get you started..
Sarge


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## BC WetCoast (Apr 22, 2008)

southsoundtree said:


> Thanks for the input so far.
> 
> I figured getting the teeth off is more problematic than keeping them on.
> 
> ...



Quote based on the time it will take to do the job, including clean up and travel. That way you can include difficult access ie fence removal, use of ramps etc.

In general, we quote 6-10" deep, but when you talk to the customer you can ask how deep they want it or what they plan on doing with the area.

I only dig out rocks where they are visible or if the homeowner landscaped with gravel around the tree.

Hauling mulch takes about the same amount of time as grinding. What works best for me, depending on how far to carry the mulch is to use a wheel barrow. In some situations, my trailer has a ramp, so I can wheel onto the trailer, then I use my portable grinder ramps to get up into the truck. If I can't get this setup to work, I dump the wheelbarrow next to the truck and use a grain scoop to shovel into the truck. I find this faster than using a garbage can. So, we quote to grind stump only, and then give a separate price to haul mulch.

Backfill with soil, only if requested. You would have to calculate the time to buy the soil, fill the hole, rake it out and grass seed. 

We will only chase visible surface roots, but that is written into the quote. Again based on the time.

Another thing you may want to invest in is a set of portable ramps. Mine are made with 1" square pipe and expanded metal and a piece of angle at one end to grip the top of a retaining wall. 5' is a good length. Mine were custom made, but ones designed to ride ATVs into a pickup may work.


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## ropensaddle (Apr 22, 2008)

BC WetCoast said:


> Quote based on the time it will take to do the job, including clean up and travel. That way you can include difficult access ie fence removal, use of ramps etc.
> 
> In general, we quote 6-10" deep, but when you talk to the customer you can ask how deep they want it or what they plan on doing with the area.
> 
> ...



Grain scoop nah, once ya use a cottonseed fork nothing else stands up to the test. I charge more than stump for cleanup though, because I really don't like the process. I will unhook trailer back up to the stump and use cottonseed fork to load! I grapple truck if it is still there! Now you are prolly going to say what if you can't get in etc. I either get in or rent a small grinder they will pay for rental+ because I had a small grinder 252 and will never go back. I have a sc 602 now and fifty to a hundred stumps daily is what I shoot for and get.


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## BC WetCoast (Apr 24, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> Grain scoop nah, once ya use a cottonseed fork nothing else stands up to the test. I charge more than stump for cleanup though, because I really don't like the process. I will unhook trailer back up to the stump and use cottonseed fork to load! I grapple truck if it is still there! Now you are prolly going to say what if you can't get in etc. I either get in or rent a small grinder they will pay for rental+ because I had a small grinder 252 and will never go back. I have a sc 602 now and fifty to a hundred stumps daily is what I shoot for and get.



250 - 500 stumps/week - wow. Is that Katrina caused work? 

What's a cottonseed fork? All we get around here is a four tined pitch fork.


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## ropensaddle (Apr 24, 2008)

BC WetCoast said:


> 250 - 500 stumps/week - wow. Is that Katrina caused work?
> 
> What's a cottonseed fork? All we get around here is a four tined pitch fork.



Cottonseed for is close tined twelve I think! If you have a tractor supply
they should have one they are a little heavy but get it done fast.

I did not say anything about the week! I merely stated if I 
am trying to grind stumps for profit, I want 100 I have a contract for 400 on four golf courses and no little machine
under 60 hp would allow me to get them knocked out soon
enough to profit! I can now get some bigger contracts.
I really hated grinding with smaller machines, it always seemed
they were making me loose jobs that the customer could not
wait on!


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## BC WetCoast (Apr 24, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> Cottonseed for is close tined twelve I think! If you have a tractor supply
> they should have one they are a little heavy but get it done fast.



Tractor supply????????

Not in this neck of the woods.


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## ropensaddle (Apr 24, 2008)

Just thought about it vancover may not have a cottonseed fork
as cotton is southern so order it online at someplace that has one!


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