# Stihl 200t or MS 200 Help please



## treein dixie (Jul 16, 2010)

Hello. Im looking at A Stihl 200t and a MS 200. I do not climb trees im looking for the saw to do ground work. I have a Sthil 290 for cutting bigger fire wood I have ran a saw alot in my life. I will use the saw to clear small under growth, sawing some wood includeing slabs. Clearing deer hunting lanes. In the vehicle for emergency's. And on the ATV during trail riding. Im tired of using the 290 all the time. I have talked to the local store owner and he makes out like the 200t is only used for tree climbing and can't and shouldn't be used for anything else. Then I hear its only for proffesionals to use this saw. I beleive you get what you pay for and only want to buy one saw. They said you can't or shouldn't use a top handle on the ground that its only designed for one hand use and you should never use two hands. Their really wanting me to get a rear handle like a 200 MS but in my opinion its lighter that the 290 but not a lot smaller. Im just torn and need some help, whats the pro's advise for what im going to be doing. Thanks in advance for the help.


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## tree md (Jul 16, 2010)

You're not going to find any advantage with a top handle saw on the ground, your dealer told you right. If I were you I would go with a MS260. Best light ground saw on the market IMO. Best power to weight ratio. The MS200 is a fine rear handle saw, no doubt, I have seen one in action but the 260 is even better. Best trade off for power to weight.

Just my .02


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## lone wolf (Jul 16, 2010)

Never use two hands?


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## newsawtooth (Jul 17, 2010)

lone wolf said:


> Never use two hands?



That was a good one.

I know this isn't going to help matters because Tree MD is right, but, if you're looking for something compact and portable to throw in a pack or behind the seat of the truck...it might not be a bad option. When I'm doing lot clearing jobs I keep a 200T behind the seat on the mini-excavator for bumping knots and some felling. Not really it's intended use and a little expensive for just carrying on the ATV, but it would work if you have to have one. 

And always use two hands. Unless you're only tied in once, in that case, let 'er buck.


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## Norwayclimber (Jul 17, 2010)

I would recommend a rear handled saw for use on the ground. I find it more comfortable to use, as the distance between your hands is greater. Gives you more leverage power, especially nice to have if you have to do some cuts with a dull chain. Not to mention the fact that it is safer to use if you get kickback.

I've never tried the ms200 but I do own 3 ms200t, and they are great light saws! Lots of power for only 4 kg's. So It sounds like that is what you want.

If you decide to go for the ms260 I would wait a little while until the ms261 is released in the marked. I've been trying this saw the last month for stihl, and it does seem to kick a bit more than the 260. Plus a couple of other nice features.


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 17, 2010)

Maybe I am confused. Are you talking about two different saws, because of your description, sounds like the ms and the t are different. Not. Stihl MS200T is a saw. Never heard of a MS200 or a 200T. Used to be an 020 but now emission controlled. I would get the MS200T. I do like the 260 also.
Jeff


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## fishercat (Jul 17, 2010)

*I don't know how competent you are with a saw................*

but i say go with the top handle if you're comfortable and careful.you have to be even more careful with a top handle saw but I use them on the ground all the time.I would get the MS 192TC for ground work though.lighter and less dangerous and half the price.I do tree work and I use the 192 all the time.the 200t sits in the truck 99% of the time.I only use it for a backup or when I need too make the fastest cut possible.

the MS200 rear handle is a a great little saw.my buddy has one and it's nice.little expensive though.I'd get the Husky 346 XP or the MS260 before i bought the rear handled MS200.


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## Norwayclimber (Jul 17, 2010)

jefflovstrom said:


> Maybe I am confused. Are you talking about two different saws, because of your description, sounds like the ms and the t are different. Not. Stihl MS200T is a saw. Never heard of a MS200 or a 200T. Used to be an 020 but now emission controlled. I would get the MS200T. I do like the 260 also.
> Jeff



MS200T, the top handle saw we all love up in the tree

MS200, the same engiene, but with a rearmounted handle. But same sweet weight


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## Norwayclimber (Jul 17, 2010)

fishercat said:


> the MS200 rear handle is a a great little saw.my buddy has one and it's nice.little expensive though.I'd get the Husky 346 XP or the MS260 before i bought the rear handled MS200.



But the question asker has a 290 and wanted a smaller/lighter saw. As cost didnt seem to be an issue, I say go for the MS200 and save 4 pounds weight compared to saving only 2 pounds with the MS260.

Put a short bar on it (10 or 12") and it wont take much space.


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 17, 2010)

Jeff


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## lone wolf (Jul 17, 2010)

Here is where nothing said to me makes any sense except that stihl is worried about lawsuits.Most on this site will parrot not safe to use on the ground but ADVOCATE using the MS200t in a tree now think about this do you have more control on the ground or in a tree we should all know the answer to that .I rest my case what say you? And about the one hand stuff not safe I can tell you!


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## Norwayclimber (Jul 17, 2010)

So you planing on moving since you have all those cardboardboxeson the back of your pickup?


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 17, 2010)

Norwayclimber said:


> So you planing on moving since you have all those cardboardboxeson the back of your pickup?



How did you know?! I am thinking of moving to Telemark, Norway! 
Jeff


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## Norwayclimber (Jul 17, 2010)

jefflovstrom said:


> How did you know?! I am thinking of moving to Telemark, Norway!
> Jeff



Cool! Make sure you bring allong all those toys of yours, and we can have a play date!


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## tree md (Jul 17, 2010)

I personally don't buy into the whole top handle saws are more dangerous bit either. The first saw I ever used was a top handle homelite. The tip of the bar does have a tendency to dip when you complete a cut with a top handle but that is manageable and not a hazard in my opinion. Just something one needs to be mindful of; especially when you are working aloft on ropes. The habit of one arming a chainsaw is what is hazardous. Not that I don't do it in the tree but I use two hands when it is not necessary for me to stretch out with one arm.

I do like a rear handle for working on the ground and making spar cuts in the tree. You get better leverage with a rear handle saw and the rear handle 200 is a ripping little saw. It's just a little light in the ass for ground work and too expensive IMO. I would rather have the 260 for $150-$200 less beans. I do have a 192T that I let the guys on the ground use though. No biggie to me if they want to use it. It's my junk saw. I used to climb with it but have pretty much turned it into a beater since I went to a 200T. It stows away nice and compact and I carry it with me to do chores on my deer lease. If I am at work though I like the 260 for limbing and light bucking on the ground.


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## lone wolf (Jul 17, 2010)




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## jefflovstrom (Jul 17, 2010)

lone wolf said:


>



That's a little bar! That small is worthy of a good hand saw. I always tell my guys, "If you cannot cut it with a handsaw, then use your chainsaw, But on prune job, a 12",14" bar on that saw is ridiculous.
Jeff


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## lone wolf (Jul 17, 2010)

jefflovstrom said:


> That's a little bar! That small is worthy of a good hand saw. I always tell my guys, "If you cannot cut it with a handsaw, then use your chainsaw, But on prune job, a 12",14" bar on that saw is ridiculous.
> Jeff



Its good for limbing and fast this way.


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## tree md (Jul 17, 2010)

I like a 14" bar. I put them on all of my climbing saws. I've got a 16" on my 260 if I need something for larger cuts in the tree but not big enough to rate the 361.


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## lone wolf (Jul 17, 2010)

It is a 14


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## tree md (Jul 17, 2010)

Yeah, know, I was talking to Jeffy... Not that he has touched a saw in years or anything...


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 17, 2010)

You really know little about me, but thats ok, I got very tough skin. You would be wore out following me around. 
Jeff, ( not paid for my looks).


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## tree md (Jul 17, 2010)

Just pulling your chain buddy.


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 17, 2010)

I know.
Jeff


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## sgreanbeans (Jul 18, 2010)

200 is a beast, but a alot of money, for your application, I think a 180 with a 14" bar would be perfect.


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## fishercat (Jul 18, 2010)

*290 is a brick.*



Norwayclimber said:


> But the question asker has a 290 and wanted a smaller/lighter saw. As cost didnt seem to be an issue, I say go for the MS200 and save 4 pounds weight compared to saving only 2 pounds with the MS260.
> 
> Put a short bar on it (10 or 12") and it wont take much space.



it doesn't take much to weigh less than a 290.a lot of saws weigh less than the 290.


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## treesquirrel (Jul 18, 2010)

I saw the MS200 ads when stihl introduced them and as much as I like the idea of the 200T performance on the ground I would opt for the less expensive models with higher horsepower. I don't need ultra light when my feet are on the ground.


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## lone wolf (Jul 18, 2010)

consider a 346 husky!


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 18, 2010)

lone wolf said:


> consider a 346 husky!



Move the muffler!
Jeff


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## tree MDS (Jul 18, 2010)

jefflovstrom said:


> That's a little bar! That small is worthy of a good hand saw. I always tell my guys, "If you cannot cut it with a handsaw, then use your chainsaw, But on prune job, a 12",14" bar on that saw is ridiculous.
> Jeff



What are your guys running 16" bars?

I bought a silky "gomtaro" a while back, and I think I like it better than the sugoi. the fine teeth are sweet for small stuff, and the blade very flexible - smaller and less cumbersome on the saddle too.


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 18, 2010)

treesquirrel said:


> I saw the MS200 ads when stihl introduced them and as much as I like the idea of the 200T performance on the ground I would opt for the less expensive models with higher horsepower. I don't need ultra light when my feet are on the ground.



Enlighten me Squirrel, Stihl makes a MS 200T, Put up a pic of a 200T, or a MS 200, There is not 2 saws we are are talking about, are there? I know MS 200T but not the break downs in the ms's and the T's.
Jeff


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## tree md (Jul 18, 2010)

Yep, 2 different saws Jeff. The MS200 is a rear handle. Anything with a T on the end means top handle. I didn't know they made a rear handle 200 myself until one of the climbers I contracted during a storm broke one out. Nice little saws. Here's a pic and description from Stihl:

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS200.html


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## tree MDS (Jul 18, 2010)

jefflovstrom said:


> Enlighten me Squirrel, Stihl makes a MS 200T, Put up a pic of a 200T, or a MS 200, There is not 2 saws we are are talking about, are there? I know MS 200T but not the break downs in the ms's and the T's.
> Jeff



I'm getting confused.. but I have seen and run a MS 200 with the rear handle.. sorta neat. not sure why anyone would want to buy one though.


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## ducaticorse (Jul 18, 2010)

jefflovstrom said:


> Enlighten me Squirrel, Stihl makes a MS 200T, Put up a pic of a 200T, or a MS 200, There is not 2 saws we are are talking about, are there? I know MS 200T but not the break downs in the ms's and the T's.
> Jeff



There is a ms200T and a ms200. The T is the designator for top handle. Everybody who is familiar these saws has probably refered to them as 200t's for short, you must know that so I don't know where the confusion is there.
As for the MS200, I handled one the other day, and there isn't any point in owning a saw like that if you're a pro. The ms200t, (200t for short) is a must have IMHO. 
On a separate note, As for the top handled saws being more dangerous? If someone feels that is true, maybe you shouldn't be handling saws in the first place....... IMHO


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 18, 2010)

tree MDS said:


> What are your guys running 16" bars?
> 
> I bought a silky "gomtaro" a while back, and I think I like it better than the sugoi. the fine teeth are sweet for small stuff, and the blade very flexible - smaller and less cumbersome on the saddle too.



Don't take this wrong but you got a nice hand saw!  I think it is like a bridge from old school to new school, and , yeah, next silky and all will be vieing for the top saw. All of my guys have 16" bars on their saws and use the hand saw. Depending on the job, some don't even need a chainsaw.
Jeff 
Basically, cuts under 4" don't need a chainsaw. IMO.


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## tree MDS (Jul 18, 2010)

ducaticorse said:


> There is a ms200T and a ms200. The T is the designator for top handle. Everybody who is familiar these saws has probably refered to them as 200t's for short, you must know that so I don't know where the confusion is there.
> As for the MS200, I handled one the other day, and there isn't any point in owning a saw like that if you're a pro. The ms200t, (200t for short) is a must have IMHO.
> On a separate note, As for the top handled saws being more dangerous? If someone feels that is true, maybe you shouldn't be handling saws in the first place....... IMHO



If you are really old school you still call the ms200T an "020".


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## ducaticorse (Jul 18, 2010)

tree MDS said:


> If you are really old school you still call the ms200T an "020".



Admitedly, I in no way shape or form can refer to myself as oldschool in regards to this biz, but I hope to one day!


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 18, 2010)

ducaticorse said:


> There is a ms200T and a ms200. The T is the designator for top handle. Everybody who is familiar these saws has probably refered to them as 200t's for short, you must know that so I don't know where the confusion is there.
> As for the MS200, I handled one the other day, and there isn't any point in owning a saw like that if you're a pro. The ms200t, (200t for short) is a must have IMHO.
> 
> Maybe that is why I don't know about it.
> Jeff


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 18, 2010)

tree MDS said:


> If you are really old school you still call the ms200T an "020".



Dang straight! 
Jeff


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## tree md (Jul 18, 2010)

I really wish I would have bought a Zubat instead of the Sugoi. The Sugoi is a fine handsaw, don't get me wrong, but it is a little oversized and cumbersome. Not to the point where I would run out and buy a new one but I would prefer a little smaller handsaw. I tried wearing it on my leg with the leg scabbard when I fist got it. It stuck out like a sore thumb above my knee and got caught on everything. I ended up clipping it to my saddle pretty quick.


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 18, 2010)

tree md said:


> I really wish I would have bought a Zubat instead of the Sugoi. The Sugoi is a fine handsaw, don't get me wrong, but it is a little oversized and cumbersome. Not to the point where I would run out and buy a new one but I would prefer a little smaller handsaw. I tried wearing it on my leg with the leg scabbard when I fist got it. It stuck out like a sore thumb above my knee and got caught on everything. I ended up clipping it to my saddle pretty quick.



Dead on! You don't need more than a 13".
Jeff


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## treesquirrel (Jul 18, 2010)

jefflovstrom said:


> Enlighten me Squirrel, Stihl makes a MS 200T, Put up a pic of a 200T, or a MS 200, There is not 2 saws we are are talking about, are there? I know MS 200T but not the break downs in the ms's and the T's.



Stihl took the MS200T and made a rear handle MS200 from the same engine/drive system. Light and powerful considering the weight.

Now, if that did not enlighten you enough then go shove a light bulb up your arse.


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 18, 2010)

treesquirrel said:


> Stihl took the MS200T and made a rear handle MS200 from the same engine/drive system. Light and powerful considering the weight.
> 
> Now, if that did not enlighten you enough then go shove a light bulb up your arse.



Just ashing Sgirl!. I did not know you had an "arse" fetish, butt, to each his own I guess.
Jeff


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## treein dixie (Jul 18, 2010)

*Keep the help coming THANKS!!!!!!!*

Thanks for the help keep it coming. I posted the same question on a couple of other sites but have had no replies. Just alot of money and want the right saw when I spend it. I only want to buy one. Just hard to choose the 200t or the ms200 and now the 260. The thing is the local dealer has the 200t so I have handled it in the shop but the ms 200 and the 260 would have to be ordered. That means pay without seeing. I think the 200t will be ok but it seems that its talk is for only hanging from a rope which I promise I will be doing none of unless my safety belt catches me if I fall from a deer stand. The 200 and the 260 just seem to have the leverage issue which is greater than the top handle. But the size of these are what turn me off because their size is compatable to the 290 just not the weight. Guess the trade off is, size vs weight or top handle vs leverage. All for ground use only. I have done enough research even though I want use it every day I will only buy the 200t and not the 192. Not looking to save the $$$$ for a lesser saw. I use one more than to just buy the home owner saw.


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 18, 2010)

So get the saw and get on with it!
Jeff


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## tree md (Jul 18, 2010)

In some places it is store policy not to sell top handle saws to the general public. Just like they will not sell full chisel chain to the GP where I live. They only sell it to professional tree services. One of the dealers on this site said that he is not allowed to sell the top handle saws to the GP. Your dealer is probably worried about liability. That is likely why he is discouraging you from buying the top handle 200. There is more risk of loosing control with a top handle in a kickback situation because the handles are much closer together making them harder to control than a rear handle with the handles spaced further apart; Hence the better leverage


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 18, 2010)

tree md said:


> In some places it is store policy not to sell top handle saws to the general public. Just like they will not sell full chisel chain to the GP where I live. They only sell it to professional tree services. One of the dealers on this site said that he is not allowed to sell the top handle saws to the GP. Your dealer is probably worried about liability. That is likely why he is discouraging you from buying the top handle 200. There is more risk of loosing control with a top handle in a kickback situation because the handles are much closer together making them harder to control than a rear handle with the handles spaced further apart; Hence the better leverage



 Finally!
Jeff


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## TonyX3M (Jul 19, 2010)

lone wolf said:


>



Looks like you never used this one or thetre's a new bar on it?


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## TonyX3M (Jul 19, 2010)

tree md said:


> Yep, 2 different saws Jeff. The MS200 is a rear handle. Anything with a T on the end means top handle. I didn't know they made a rear handle 200 myself until one of the climbers I contracted during a storm broke one out. Nice little saws. Here's a pic and description from Stihl:
> 
> http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS200.html



http://www.stokker.ee/products/product/1048177/Mootorsaag_MS_200_T/by the way: 200T is cheaper then 200- not mutch of a market here


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## treesquirrel (Jul 19, 2010)

jefflovstrom said:


> Just ashing Sgirl!. I did not know you had an "arse" fetish, butt, to each his own I guess.
> Jeff



Depends on how nice yer arse is.


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## treesquirrel (Jul 19, 2010)

tree md said:


> That is likely why he is discouraging you from buying the top handle 200.



Uh oh, there you go confusing Jeff again, he don't know what a "200" be.


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## lone wolf (Jul 19, 2010)

TonyX3M said:


> Looks like you never used this one or thetre's a new bar on it?



Never its emergency backup.


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## TonyX3M (Jul 19, 2010)

*To Lone Wolf:*

Must be nice to have enough dough to have 200T as a backup saw!
:jawdrop:


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## lone wolf (Jul 19, 2010)

TonyX3M said:


> Must be nice to have enough dough to have 200T as a backup saw!
> :jawdrop:



I have been working 36 years.


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## fishercat (Jul 19, 2010)

*in that case................*



lone wolf said:


> I have been working 36 years.



I'd say you more than earned it!


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## mikewhite85 (Jul 21, 2010)

*200t parts?*

Slightly off topic but can get get parts for the saw online

Mine got stuck in the kerf the other day and went down with a log. The handle assembly is all messed up but cost 130-150 at the shop. Just wondering if there is anything cheaper out there. That's one expensive piece of plastic. 

It came apart where the top handle meets the side handle, right where the on/off/choke switch is.


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## treein dixie (Jul 21, 2010)

*200t*

Well im poor now driving home with the 200t its mine now right choice or wrong. I wanted a extra chain when I asked the dealer for one I was asked a safety chain or regular. Didn't no which to get any input. Thanks


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## lone wolf (Jul 21, 2010)

treein dixie said:


> Well im poor now driving home with the 200t its mine now right choice or wrong. I wanted a extra chain when I asked the dealer for one I was asked a safety chain or regular. Didn't no which to get any input. Thanks



I dont use safety chain its slower if you are new to using a saw get safety chain till you are used to it , safety chain produces less kickback.


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## lone wolf (Jul 21, 2010)

lone wolf said:


> I dont use safety chain its slower if you are new to using a saw get safety chain till you are used to it , safety chain produces less kickback.



regular cuts faster.


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## oscar4883 (Jul 21, 2010)

mikewhite85 said:


> Slightly off topic but can get get parts for the saw online
> 
> Mine got stuck in the kerf the other day and went down with a log. The handle assembly is all messed up but cost 130-150 at the shop. Just wondering if there is anything cheaper out there. That's one expensive piece of plastic.
> 
> It came apart where the top handle meets the side handle, right where the on/off/choke switch is.



Handles are on e-bay from time to time.


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