# Smallest setup to mill 32" log?



## Blue42 (Mar 19, 2020)

Firstly, hello, as it's my first post on the site. I have already spent about 30 hours searching around for information on what to do, and I thought it was finally time I joined. 

I have a 32" diameter chestnut oak that uprooted and fell last summer that I can't get out to the road, and need to mill on the spot. It was an awesome tree and I wish it was still up; but at least I can not let it just rot. I have spent about five Saturdays now on it; first trying and failing to pull logs I cut from it up the steep hill it's on, then a bunch more weekends chopping and sawing on it with hand tools. And then, no kidding, another ten saturdays over the last five months thinking about how to do it and what to do with it. Last weekend I finally gave up on my traditionalist preference and I am going to go the power route to get it done. A chainsaw with lake pipes and supercharger, blowing flames out the side, and an alaskan sawmill. I really want to get this done before tick and mosquito season, which is coming starting around May. 

I have basically no experience with chainsaws; just a few hours on a battery powered Milwaukee 16" bar. What I want is the smallest saw I can use to mill the logs, and then it will probably never see another tree thicker than 24" again. And it will probably only ever do milling. I would rather use my Disston crosscut saw on anything I can use it on. I do have a 20" or so sweetgum that's also down, and a 16-18" sycamore that the saw will also be used on. I have never been into chainsaws, but I am into trees, hand saws and axes, and big slabs of wood to make tables from. To get those slabs, now I'm into chainsaws by requirement. 

I can pay guys to come in and do it all for $2000. I already talked to them. But for that price I could buy the equipment myself and do it. If I paid them, when they left I would have the wood and be $2000 poorer. If I do it myself, I will have the wood and be $1400 poorer, but I would also have $1400 worth of tools. This would all be great, as long as I can do it without getting myself hurt. I do have experience chopping on trees with axes and big crosscut saws, and riding motorcycles, and rebuilding a couple v8 engines. So I've definitely done stuff before where you can get hurt, and I know how to be careful. I'm 40 and in good shape. I'm just a little uneasy jumping right in with an 80cc chainsaw. I'm assuming that hooking the thing up to a mill rig is a little safer than swinging it around bucking logs and felling trees. Would you guys agree with that?

I am leaning towards a Husqvarna 576XP Autotune, but they're hard to find. Next preference would be their 572XP. However, to be able to mill this log I need at least a 36" bar. And even with the 36" bar, I would probably only be able to get about 30" in there. So I would have to hack off 2-3 inches of the log to use it. I would rather just use a 42" bar with a 36" mill (which I have read in several places is a good way to go, even though the Granberg site, and others, say a 36" mill is for a 36" bar, maximum). If the saw can just survive going through about a ten foot log at 30" average a few times, that's the toughest duty it will ever see. I'm thinking I can do that, take my time and let the saw cool between and during cuts, and be good. The guy I talked to at the Stihl dealer said the same thing. Oregon's parts finder pulls up a 42" bar for the 576X but not for the 572. It also pulls up a 42" bar for the Stihl 460 and 461; which are about $100-200 more, but are also options. A couple other places, like Forester, have a 36" bar that they say fits the 572, but I haven't found any reference yet that says a 42" bar will even fit a 572.
Alternatively, the Stihl dealer has a MS 660 for $850 that looks to be in decent shape. 

Nice forum. I've read a lot of threads on here and have learned a lot. Could you offer any thoughts or advice to me?


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## andy at clover (Mar 19, 2020)

Welcome to the rabbit hole 

There is a very fresh husky 395xp from a trusted seller for $875 with bar a post cost right now... if you’re serious.... that’s a strong candidate.... it won’t last long at that price.

For a full 32” rip you’ll need a 48” granberg mill.
Could get by with a 42” bar though.
The 395 will pull and oil a 42 without much trouble... modifyvtye muffler to release more heat (many threads on that subject).
Safely subtract 6” from the mill width to understand it’s max cut capacity.

I think you're on the “right track” to get your logs/lumber out of the woods by hand.
It’s why I started milling but now not the only reason I do it (many her will agree I imagine).

Good luck!


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## Blue42 (Mar 19, 2020)

Thanks Andy. That 395 would be an option for me. I'll look at it today. Is it in the site classifieds?

As to needing a 48" mill:
guys on here https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/max-bar-for-a-36-mill.108885/ 
say they can do "almost 36" of cut" with a 395, 42" bar, and 36" mill. They say the 42" bar allows you to use the full capacity of a 36" mill.
And this thread https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/choosing-a-mill-size.231553/
says pretty much the same thing--that you should be able to do almost 36" (which means to me, at least 33") with a 42" bar and 36" mill. A guy on another thread... here, https://*****************/board/index.php?topic=90568.0
says that with his Stihl 660 with 36" bar and 36" mill, he could do 34" logs when he removed the log dogs. 
The mill sites usually say an 24/36/48 mill is for a maximum 24/36/48 bar. And then I think they give you the max cut width as being the mill width minus 6" or so. But it looks to me like that cut width is limited by your bar length, not your mill. If you put in a little bit longer bar, it's sounding to me like you can cut a log about two inches shorter than the mill width, rather than 6" shorter.
If I get a 48" mill, that extra size will be utilized one time, and then never again, almost for sure. Then after that one use I would always just have another 12" of bar hanging out the end. There are just hardly any big trees around here. The 32" one that fell is the thickest trunk I've seen anywhere in my woods. And it just so happened to fall within the couple years I've been living here. The sites I'm looking at also don't have the 48" mill for sale. So I'm hoping to use a 36". 

As to the muffler mods; I'm actually looking at going the opposite way--making it quieter, and hopefully not losing power. I know that with cars, taking all the backpressure away opens up the high rev power somewhat, but loses you power down low. I like being quiet out in the woods and in my yard, by God's grace. I looked up a lot of threads on quieting 2 strokes already; using dirtbike/scooter/atv silencers on the chainsaw. The neighbors would also thank me not to have to listen to a chainsaw going all day. The noise is half the reason I didn't want to get one. 

So you got into this by accident? I hope not to get to far down into this rabbit hole. I have too many other hobbies already. Although I am enjoying looking at the saws some. And the videos of milling with the chainsaws to get big slabs of wood are very impressive. The men who sweated all day pulling pit saws back in the last century would have wept seeing what these things can do today.


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## andy at clover (Mar 19, 2020)

Blue42 said:


> Thanks Andy. That 395 would be an option for me. I'll look at it today. Is it in the site classifieds?
> 
> As to needing a 48" mill:
> guys on here https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/max-bar-for-a-36-mill.108885/
> ...



Sounds like you have a plan.... go for it....
Yes, The 395 is here in as classified.

I’m running a 3120 after previuosly using a 661
The 661 was great but just had Little headroom remaining imo in oiler and power.
In the big saws I’ve tried, husky has the better oiler, tensioner, air filtration, and online parts availability.

My falling and utility saws are Stihl... milling is/will be Husky.

BTW
I usually run a mill36”/36”bar but bought a mill72”/62”bar for one project figuring it would be a one off...
I’ve used the big set up many times now... it just keeps finding uses !


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## Blue42 (Mar 19, 2020)

Your 72" mill keeps finding uses, like milling the roof of your car off to make it a convertible? I'm kidding, they did say somewhere to get bigger than you think you need. 
That 395 on here sold, just before I got to the seller. Unfortunate. I appreciate your experience with Husqvarnas being preferable for milling. There is a ported 395 for sale now, but I don't know that I want something that isn't OEM that I might have to mess with right off the bat.


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## andy at clover (Mar 19, 2020)

Blue42 said:


> Your 72" mill keeps finding uses, like milling the roof of your car off to make it a convertible? I'm kidding, they did say somewhere to get bigger than you think you need.
> That 395 on here sold, just before I got to the seller. Unfortunate. I appreciate your experience with Husqvarnas being preferable for milling. There is a ported 395 for sale now, but I don't know that I want something that isn't OEM that I might have to mess with right off the bat.


Haha.... actually I used the bar on the saw without mill to get these nuggets into the truck the other day.
Too short for leverage and too heavy to lift... spilitting in half was the solution and worked.


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## Blue42 (Mar 19, 2020)

That looks nice, being done by free hand. Of course you could have split it, but then you wouldn't have been able to plow through it with your chainsaw.

And, I just ordered a Granberg 36" mill, so there's no going back now. Now have to get the saw, ripping chain, protective jacket and hard hat. Then monkey around some with making it quieter, so some flexible tubing that can handle exhaust, and a smaller 2-stroke silencer, along with clamps and fittings; or I'll have to make the fitting for the exhaust port.


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## LonestarStihl (Mar 19, 2020)

Another 395 for sale. It’s not as pretty as the other one but it’s ported as well...


Ported 395xpw








SOLD - Ported 395xp with new 36” b/c 825 shipped.


Well my 390 isn’t moving along so I’m going to put this guy up for sale. Ported by same member as my 390. This is an 01 shell but internals have very...




r.tapatalk.com


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## abbott295 (Mar 20, 2020)

Blue42, I know Rarefish383 is in Maryland; look him up, talk to him; he may be able to help you in some way.

I also know where there is an Echo cs8000 in a pawn shop with a 36 inch bar, well the saw has the 36 inch bar, priced at $450.


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## cuinrearview (Mar 20, 2020)

@rarefish383


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## rarefish383 (Mar 20, 2020)

Where are you in Southern MD? I went to school at Charlotte Hall. I’m in Western MD now. Still fish off Point Lookout now and then.


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## Blue42 (Mar 20, 2020)

Appreciate the replies. I'm in Leonardtown Joe. I definitely want to learn what I'm doing some before jumping in with a 7hp saw and getting hurt. I work with a guy who had a tree business on the side, so I plan to ask him to give me a hand. 

I saw that ported 395 on the classifieds. I'm just leery of getting anything modified, as I don't want to get all into learning about everything now, or dealing with something extra as a novice. Right now I want the standard. Lower my chances of getting hurt, or getting something that I blow up from lack of knowledge.

I found a new 390xp for a good price, but all the threads say not to mill with it, and they recommend a MS 660 or 395xp over the 390. But it's a little unfortunate that a beat up old 660 is the same price as the new 390. Makes it a hard decision. I'm trying to decide now. Factored into that decision is that I have one 32" log to mill (which is what got me into this to start with) and after that I'll probably never put the saw into anything bigger than 24" again. However, it would probably take a 42" bar to cut the 32" log, and nobody recommends a 42" bar on a 390.


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## Blue42 (Mar 20, 2020)

There's a used 660 for sale locally from a Stihl dealer for $850. I'm thinking about that, but, again, it's a tough choice to go that way when there is a new 390xp for the same price available.

Also see a 572XP available for $800. If it could survive milling a couple thick logs, it would be nice to have the Autotune and other newer technology in a lighter saw.


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## andy at clover (Mar 20, 2020)

Never asked you what your final use was for the lumber.
You can shave the sides of most any log at the flare... unless you’re going for live edge for all of it.
Also consider, the center cut is always the widest.
It also contains the pith which one normally cuts out.
So that center plank will be eventually cut down to tree smaller widths anyway inorder to remove the pith.
That pith area is still good for a post or other use..... but if left in the full width, you get a warp in the overall width 99/100times.
So removing all or some of the sap wood on a log at it’s center (widest) in order to fit in a mill is usually not a deal breaker.

Example:
one reason I noodled those big Cedar slabs in half.... the center would be cut into rips regardless of other uses (full width live edge planks).
The pith cut out i have 2 roughly 10” straight grain pieces plus a 4-6” wide piece from center (pith).


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## Blue42 (Mar 20, 2020)

I'm going to slab it for the primary use of a nice 3' by 8' or so dining room table. A couple benches also. I don't care about a live edge, so shaving some off the sides would be an option. The logs have boring worms of some kind right under the bark too. Don't know if they're ash borers or something like them. I got the bark off about half the tree now, but there won't be any live edges.

Makes perfect sense. If the pith is going to make a full width center slab just about unuseable anyway, narrowing down that center slab by shaving the sides isn't a big deal. Do you every try to make one of your slab cuts right on the pith so that the pith only goes 1/2" or so into the slab, and you can still use it? Or would that slab still warp? Does anyone screw rails to the slabs as they dry to keep them straight? 
I plan to take all the wood to a kiln, since the powerpost beetles have gotten to the wood some. Want to bake them all. (The log has only been down about 6 months but the bugs sure did hit it right away.) I don't want to wait two years for drying either. I already hit the log with some Borax spray. Might also mix some Timbor type stuff to penetrate the slabs and spray it with that also. Although the holes don't do beyond about 2 inches into the sapwood at the deepest. 

I have a lot to learn still.


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## buzz sawyer (Mar 20, 2020)

FWIW, Chestnut Oak is a White Oak and quite rot resistant. Makes nice lumber.


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## andy at clover (Mar 20, 2020)

If the pith region appears solid, I usually try and keep it intact for use as a “post”.
Depends on both the species and the individual tree how it gets treated.
I left about an inch on some western maple slabs..... Hard to imagine them warping.
Some Wetwen hemlock I milled Was the opposite.... had to leave a margin as the heart area around the pith was really showing softness.
Inspect and plan your best then... expect a possibility of adjusting end use further after drying.


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## Blue42 (Mar 20, 2020)

I found a saw I want to buy on Outdoor Power Equipment Forum, but have to register to make any contact or purchase. I signed up at 3 and have been waiting now for an administrator to approve my account. Would have had this done by now if I could just call the guy.


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## andy at clover (Mar 20, 2020)

Blue42 said:


> I found a saw I want to buy on Outdoor Power Equipment Forum, but have to register to make any contact or purchase. I signed up at 3 and have been waiting now for an administrator to approve my account. Would have had this done by now if I could just call the guy.


He might be here on this forum with same username.... you could try and search it.


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## Blue42 (Mar 20, 2020)

Good idea. ...and he's on this site and I just messaged him. Username: Gentleman.


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## Blue42 (Mar 20, 2020)

buzz sawyer said:


> FWIW, Chestnut Oak is a White Oak and quite rot resistant. Makes nice lumber.


Thanks. It definitely smells good and it's pretty hard. I was chopping in it a few weeks back in the heart wood and I am fairly sure I actually saw a spark.
Nobody online sells any slabs of it, and searches pull up exactly one table made from it. One. But I'm sure going to use it. The tree itself was awesome. Had a branch split off it, that was really another tree in its own right, that grew way, way out over the steep hill it was perched on the edge of. Like the tree didn't worry about gravity at all. I know now that chestnut oaks always do that. They put a big secondary trunk out to the side about ten feet up. 
Dang. Wish that tree was still standing.


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## Blue42 (Mar 21, 2020)

I was watching some safety things, among them, a guy on here with a lot of experience doing some simple bucking and getting a real good scare with the saw kicking back and hitting his chaps. I have a question for you guys. Is running an Alaskan Mill safer than general cutting? I'm assuming it is. If not, no way I would go right out and buy a big saw with almost no experience. I don't plan to use the saw for anything but milling. Too dangerous in my mind.
I read BobL's personal risk assessment list in the milling 101 sticky and he lists nothing about saws kicking back or chains whipping out and hitting you. Basically no dangers listed having to do with the saw cutting you or bashing you. That makes me feel better.
I have a healthy fear of this stuff and if milling isn't safer than general use, I would probably forget about the whole deal.


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## rarefish383 (Mar 21, 2020)

If you found a saw you like go for it. My cousin gave me an old Homelite C5 he got at an auction for a dollar. It was a good runner, so I gave it to one of my buddy’s that wanted to try milling. He bought a 30 inch bar and chain for it on eBay. No one recommends a C5 for milling. But he mills with it all the time. He keeps a sharp chain on it and lets it cut at its own speed. If you put 200 ponds of pushing on a dull 880 or 3120, you can burn them up too. You can definitely use a small for the job saw if you use common sense and go slow. I picked up a Homelite Super 1050 at an auction for $150 and mill with it with a 36” bar and 404 chain. My main milling saw is a 660.


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## rarefish383 (Mar 21, 2020)

Don’t know who’s video you saw, so I’m not bashing it. I’m retired from a fourth generation tree service. I’ve been here for about ten years and have seen guys come just like you, to learn. In 2-3 years they are super pros, giving advice to rookies that is just stupid dangerous. I don’t give advice on take downs because I don’t know the persons skill level with their equipment, the type and condition of their equipment. 

I think milling is pretty safe. I let a friend run my 660 in a cut and it flat out scared him to death. So I may be wrong. Make sure you use guide rails that overlap the log on both ends. Gives you a place to rest the saw while you start it and get it revved up to enter the log, and a place to let it idle down as you exit the log. The only way I see of getting hurt is trying to get a mill started in a log with no guide rails. You are trying to get a heavy wide open saw started in the hardest cut to get started. I just use a 2X8 screwed to the log with deck screws. Make sure they are not so long they stick down into the cut.


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## Blue42 (Mar 21, 2020)

Thanks Joe. Do you use rails for each cut, or just the first cut? Someone I was reading about used them for every cut.


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## Husky Man (Mar 21, 2020)

Blue42 said:


> Thanks Joe. Do you use rails for each cut, or just the first cut? Someone I was reading about used them for every cut.



Blue, I just went out and Maxed out my 36" Granberg Mill, with the Bar Clamp Brackets set to the very end of the rails, I measured 33.5" between the inside faces of the bar clamps.

I measured on one of my .404 Bars, I wouldn't clamp the sprocket end of the bar any closer than 2.5" from the end of the bar(Not measuring the Chain)

Better make SURE that your "36 Inch Bar" Really is 36", Both my Oregon Power Match and my Husqvarna Branded Bar(which I Believe is produced by Oregon) both measure 34.5" from saw face(NOT counting Dawgs) to the bar tip when mounted on my 3120XP, 395XP and 390XP saws, you can recoup a couple inches, by removing your Dawgs, but you are going to lose an inch at the powerhead end, due to the bar clamp.

So in theory, a 36" mill WILL handle your 32" Log, BUT, it won't give you much leeway for bumps, bulges or knots.

An unintended consequence is also that you WON'T be ABLE to Seesaw much, which is a GOOD thing.

While milling you don't want to seesaw the bar, it can leave marks in your cut, Many/Most Guys (and Gals too  ) mill with the bar at an angle, not exactly perpendicular to the center line of the cut. Pick an angle that you are comfortable with, and try to maintain it throughout the cut. With your mill that close to capacity, you won't get a lot of angle on your bar, but IMO, keeping the angle consistent is as, if not more important, than the angle itself, just do what is the most comfortable for you, that you can manage, and stay as consistent as you can.

I don't think that I have ever seen a discussion here about whether it is better to lead with the bar end, or the powerhead end, I tend to lead with the bar end of the mill ahead of the powerhead in the cut, but if leading with the powerhead end is more Comfortable for YOU, try that. As you gain experience, you will undoubtedly will find different ways than how you started, that yield better results and are more comfortable for you, so long as you stay SAFE, don't be afraid to try doing things differently, that is how you LEARN.

When I decided to get into Milling, I didn't stick a toe in the water, I did a Swan Dive from the High Board, I bought 48", 36" Mills, as well as their "Small Log Mill" which only clamps at the powerhead end, and is rated to 24" Bar IIRC, and the "Mini Mill", which is typically used for edging, which I have been very Happy with so far.

I also bought Granberg's "EZ Rails" a 9' set and 2 5' sets, plus the connector kits to mill longer beams with.

I use the EZ Rails on all my cuts, maybe with practice, I would get better, but I was getting "Dive" and the ends of my cuts weren't on "Plane" with the middle of the cuts.

An advantage to the EZ Rails is that they are made out of the same material as the Mill frames, so the 5" EZ Rails could also be used to convert your 36" Mill into a 60" Mill, by swapping the parts over, all you would need to buy, is the 60" Round Handle, and it is strongly suggested to buy at least one more End Bracket set for the middle of the mill, to stiffen it up more. Granberg has an Excellent Customer Service Dept. and all the parts are Easily Available from them. I have found Granberg's products to be well Built and Designed, and of High Quality. There are Chinese knock offs, but I have never compared them, so I won't comment on those, other than to remind you of the old saying, you get what you pay for, and set your expectations accordingly

Good Luck with this project, and don't be surprised if you get Hooked, and are back for another "Fix"


Doug


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## abbott295 (Mar 21, 2020)

Rails on every cut or not is up to you. If you don't, and you happen to make a wavy cut, you can be repeating the waves every time; if you use the rails, set-up takes longer, you have to watch where you place screws, especially if f you are changing the thickness of the cut, but you have a place to help get started and get out the other end. Kind of depends what you want. 

If you can find a log or two that you don't care so much about (and maybe not so large) to practice and learn on before you get into the big one, there's nothing wrong with that.


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## Husky Man (Mar 21, 2020)

Blue, I also forgot to add, that as too milling being Safer?

ANYTHING between you and the chain will add safety, so while you can still manage to hurt yourself, that Mill frame sure can't hurt, keeping you and a moving chain separated. 

The Number 1 cause of Kickback, is getting the "No Zone", the top quarter end of the Bar Nose in contact with something, while Milling with the Frame Mills, your bar nose os Guarded, so that hazard is avoided. The Granberg "Small Log Mill" doesn't have the nose guard, so that should be kept in consideration, if you ever use one of those, but for this project, the small log mill wouldn't be an option, at least if used as designed/directed.

As always SAFETY, needs to be a concern when using any chainsaw, if you are competent with a Free saw, cutting firewood, you should be just fine, using a CSM (Chain Saw Mill) as with any saw, if you aren't SURE about anything, STOP and asses what you are doing, If it is SAFE, and if not, HOW/or CAN, you do it safely.


Doug


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## andy at clover (Mar 21, 2020)

It’s my opinion that user familiarity and comfort in use is the number 1 contributor to safety.

Myself as an example.
I started using saws as a teen slowly gratuating from jigsaws then bandsaws and tablesaws to band-mill and chainsaw...
Understand the dynamics of the blade and or chain/cutters and where the operator belongs.
Asking questions is good. Identifying why you should know is better.

Op, you’re starting off right asking questions.
Here you’ll get lots of opinions with answers (maybe fish is touching on this).
Basic saw skills are available from some excellent books.
Maybe asking for book/lesson recommendations would be a next step. (Rather Better than ....learning from a forum).


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## Blue42 (Mar 21, 2020)

Thank you gentlemen. The feedback is helpful. 

Husky Man, if the bar actually can end up shorter, that pushed me towards a 42". Right now I'm divided between a 36" and a 42". I understand it's better to run less bar unless you need it. And I will probably only ever need 42" one time. But I would rather not have to spend hours whacking at the log to make a 36" bar fit. I've already spent many frustrating weekends messing with this log and I'm ready to get it done. 

I'm planning on using an aluminum ladder. And hoping I can get a good way to screw it down well. The hardware store should have some brackets that fit over the rungs pretty well. I figure there should be less chance of the rails not being parallel to each other with a ladder. I'm a little reluctant to drill holes into each slab to use rails for each cut. But


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## Skeans (Mar 21, 2020)

Husky Man said:


> Blue, I also forgot to add, that as too milling being Safer?
> 
> ANYTHING between you and the chain will add safety, so while you can still manage to hurt yourself, that Mill frame sure can't hurt, keeping you and a moving chain separated.
> 
> ...



Kickback wouldn’t be my main worry when milling bow chain shot where you’re exposed to the chain more.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Skeans (Mar 21, 2020)

Blue42 said:


> Thank you gentlemen. The feedback is helpful.
> 
> Husky Man, if the bar actually can end up shorter, that pushed me towards a 42". Right now I'm divided between a 36" and a 42". I understand it's better to run less bar unless you need it. And I will probably only ever need 42" one time. But I would rather not have to spend hours whacking at the log to make a 36" bar fit. I've already spent many frustrating weekends messing with this log and I'm ready to get it done.
> 
> I'm planning on using an aluminum ladder. And hoping I can get a good way to screw it down well. The hardware store should have some brackets that fit over the rungs pretty well. I figure there should be less chance of the rails not being parallel to each other with a ladder. I'm a little reluctant to drill holes into each slab to use rails for each cut. But



Have you ran a 42 before? It’s not a light bar to throw around coming from a falling background I’d be more willing to run a 36 over a 42 any day.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Husky Man (Mar 21, 2020)

Blue42 said:


> Thank you gentlemen. The feedback is helpful.
> 
> Husky Man, if the bar actually can end up shorter, that pushed me towards a 42". Right now I'm divided between a 36" and a 42". I understand it's better to run less bar unless you need it. And I will probably only ever need 42" one time. But I would rather not have to spend hours whacking at the log to make a 36" bar fit. I've already spent many frustrating weekends messing with this log and I'm ready to get it done.
> 
> I'm planning on using an aluminum ladder. And hoping I can get a good way to screw it down well. The hardware store should have some brackets that fit over the rungs pretty well. I figure there should be less chance of the rails not being parallel to each other with a ladder. I'm a little reluctant to drill holes into each slab to use rails for each cut. But




Blue, if you are making Tables (I forget what your end use is) remember that there is a Top and a Bottom to tables, use the side with the screw holes for the bottom.

Another option is to determine what the finished length needs to be for your project, then cut your logs to be milled enough longer to be able to screw your ladder down near the ends, then cut off the material with the screw holes in them.

If you just want a 36" bar, you may be able to get away with milling down to your mills limit, roll your log over, and mill down to your limit from the other direction, it is possible that will leave you with a center section thin enough to use as is, just depends on how much over the capacity of your mill the log is, something to think about/try


Doug


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## andy at clover (Mar 21, 2020)

Husky Man said:


> Blue, if you are making Tables (I forget what your end use is) remember that there is a Top and a Bottom to tables, use the side with the screw holes for the bottom.
> 
> Another option is to determine what the finished length needs to be for your project, then cut your logs to be milled enough longer to be able to screw your ladder down near the ends, then cut off the material with the screw holes in them.
> 
> ...


I’ve always found screwing the rails only on the ends caused vibration to turn into rail wobble.. (ladder in my case) 
At least a couple screws through the middle of a 10’ run are needed to hold things still.
Maybe using a plank of 2x instead of a ladder eliminates that..
Screw holes can disappear quickly if you need them to.
I make a “toothpick” out of same wood and fill screws holes with them.... comes out appearing as a pin knot.
Of course some pieces this would stand out but others it blends into the natural appearance of the piece just fine.


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## Husky Man (Mar 21, 2020)

Skeans said:


> Have you ran a 42 before? It’s not a light bar to throw around coming from a falling background I’d be more willing to run a 36 over a 42 any day.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi Skeans, Blue42 is trying to max out a 36" CSM and a 36" B&C may leave him a little short

He had asked about the potential for kickback while milling, and you're right in most milling situations, Kickback is a rather minor concern.

Even on my 3120XP, the 36" B&C Balances very Nicely, the 44" B&C are Rather Nose Heavy, but manageable, not something that I would want to carry around a timber cut all day
You wouldn't likely be carrying a 3120 around all day falling, but on a smaller saw, even with the lighter saw weight, I imagine the greater nose heavy off balance would be even more noticeable 

Haven't happened into the same threads in awhile, How Ya Been? CoVid19 affecting you and your work much?


Doug


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## Skeans (Mar 21, 2020)

Husky Man said:


> Hi Skeans, Blue42 is trying to max out a 36" CSM and a 36" B&C may leave him a little short
> 
> He had asked about the potential for kickback while milling, and you're right in most milling situations, Kickback is a rather minor concern.
> 
> ...



Nose heavy is normally a good thing or just a slight tip down especially when limbing and bucking. A 3120 yeah you can carry all day there’s a few guys that do carry them daily, I never have nor do I think I would need to with the size of wood we cut.

We’re doing ok getting ready to start on some stuff back at home after we got released early from our contract Friday afternoon. How’s stuff on the east side of the metro?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Blue42 (Mar 21, 2020)

Skeans said:


> Have you ran a 42 before? It’s not a light bar to throw around coming from a falling background I’d be more willing to run a 36 over a 42 any day.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have never used a 42" but this saw will only be for milling. Scares me using something this big free hand.


Husky Man said:


> Blue, if you are making Tables (I forget what your end use is) remember that there is a Top and a Bottom to tables, use the side with the screw holes for the bottom.
> Another option is to determine what the finished length needs to be for your project, then cut your logs to be milled enough longer to be able to screw your ladder down near the ends, then cut off the material with the screw holes in them.
> If you just want a 36" bar, you may be able to get away with milling down to your mills limit, roll your log over, and mill down to your limit from the other direction, it is possible that will leave you with a center section thin enough to use as is, just depends on how much over the capacity of your mill the log is, something to think about/try
> Doug



Good point Doug. Just mill the extra width off. 
Gentlemen, I've been hacking on this tree for so long, trying to rive it, trying to make a 4' hand pit saw for it (which didn't work; ground the teeth too far apart--not enough teeth per inch probably, and darned hard to keep the cut going straight anyway), trying to pull it up the hill, trying to get the bark off, and generally just staring at it on the side of this steep hill trying to think of what to do and how to do it...man, being able to just rip a piece off it in a few minutes..that's something I don't even think of.


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## Blue42 (Mar 21, 2020)

Hey, on a related topic, I only see any 36" bars in .063 gauge. And a lot of people recommend Bailey's ripping chain, so I went to buy some of that, and a bar. However, Bailey's apparently doesn't have any ripping chain that's .063 gauge. Only have .05. Unless they put the wrong description on this one--33RC115. I'm guessing the RC is for ripping chain, but the description says it's chisel. 
Granberg does have .063 gauge rip chain, but the site says they're on lock down in California and can't send any orders out. 

Any advice or an alternate source would be appreciated.


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## Skeans (Mar 21, 2020)

Blue42 said:


> I have never used a 42" but this saw will only be for milling. Scares me using something this big free hand.
> 
> 
> Good point Doug. Just mill the extra width off.
> Gentlemen, I've been hacking on this tree for so long, trying to rive it, trying to make a 4' hand pit saw for it (which didn't work; ground the teeth too far apart--not enough teeth per inch probably, and darned hard to keep the cut going straight anyway), trying to pull it up the hill, trying to get the bark off, and generally just staring at it on the side of this steep hill trying to think of what to do and how to do it...man, being able to just rip a piece off it in a few minutes..that's something I don't even think of.



Running a 42 isn’t too bad anything over 50 gets to be interesting that’s when you want to carry 2 saws with you.





That’s a 42 on a 395 they work real good together as far as milling the only milling I’ve done is free hand for springboards.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Husky Man (Mar 21, 2020)

Hi Skeans, So far we're doing Okay,No Family or friends sick yet  

I'm still working, my dedicated account produces Polyurethane Foam, they haven't been notified to shut down yet, that I know of.

Another of our accounts is a Big Communications Company, Cable, Internet, Cell services so I don't think that they will get shut down, I was in Medford this past Monday and Tuesday covering for a sick driver (Flu, Thankfully) and I am expecting to go back Tuesday afternoon for Wed-Fri this coming week, so far I am Busy, but my Wife is a Hair Styllist, and has her own Salon in Welches, OR and she is hearing that Monday it is likely she will be ordered to close down, so she is taking appointments this weekend, but she usually doesn't work weekends.

Fortunately, we are pretty well stocked up, and haven't had to go to the stores too much, but they have been insane around here, Dayum, even the Winter Hawks refused to go into Costco, In FULL GEAR, even with Hockey Sticks, they said something about being "Tough, But NOT Stupid"

I imagine that it does get "Interesting" over 50", I have a 60" Bar, I eventually want to mill Table Tops, that will let me mill up to about 52-54" wide, that thing is a BEAST to handle, at least in a CSM, the mill and guide rails are supporting the saw, I can't imagine actually using a bar that size in falling.

Stay Healthy,
Doug


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## Husky Man (Mar 22, 2020)

Blue42 said:


> Hey, on a related topic, I only see any 36" bars in .063 gauge. And a lot of people recommend Bailey's ripping chain, so I went to buy some of that, and a bar. However, Bailey's apparently doesn't have any ripping chain that's .063 gauge. Only have .05. Unless they put the wrong description on this one--33RC115. I'm guessing the RC is for ripping chain, but the description says it's chisel.
> Granberg does have .063 gauge rip chain, but the site says they're on lock down in California and can't send any orders out.
> 
> Any advice or an alternate source would be appreciated.



Hi Blue42, what PITCH are you using, 3/8 or .404?

I use .404/.063 for my milling, I just use Stihl Full Skip, and have been Happy with the results, I haven't tried a milling specific ripping chain yet, and so far, I like my results with the full skip. I am tempted to get a ripping chain and try cutting a couple slabs from the same log, using each, the ripping chain, and full skip, and compare results, but haven't yet.


Doug


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## Blue42 (Mar 22, 2020)

Doug, I had thought all the milling chain was 3/8, but Granberg actually have .325, .375, .404. 





CHAIN - Granberg International







granberg.com





I just want a standard setup to start with, and it is looking like 3/8 is the best balance for this, and it's the sproket type that comes on the 395xp. A smaller kerf would be nice for ripping, which I assume would go along with a smaller gauge typically, but I'm not seeing any 36" bars available in a .05 gauge.


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## Skeans (Mar 22, 2020)

Blue42 said:


> Doug, I had thought all the milling chain was 3/8, but Granberg actually have .325, .375, .404.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I wouldn’t run anything but 63 gauge it’ll oil a little better and a little more width on the driver is a good thing when you’re trying to push power.
What bar are you planning on running?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## andy at clover (Mar 23, 2020)

+1 for .063
Go for .404 if you can.
It's stronger but that's not all.

Since switching from Stihl to Husky I have .063/.404 on my 36" bar vs .063 3/8 on the 62". (Forester 62' bar sold only with 3/8)
When the sprocket tip gives out on the 62" I'll change that over to .404 also if I can find a tip.

The .404 chippers stay sharper longer and it feels like there is more to file making it easier to see and control sharpening.
At first it seemed counter intuitive but it makes sense.... You get more feedback from pushing a larger file against larger cutters.... More surface.
The cutters seem to stay sharp longer too.... anecdotal ? Maybe but that's all that counts for me at this point.
I mill thick planks so don't get too caught up in Kerf waste....
If the operation was for thinner planks meaning more rips.... It might be a different consideration. (Kerf waste)

There seems to be legit regional prefferences when it comes to milling.
Different trees have different traditional uses.
So as always .....ymmv


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## Blue42 (Mar 26, 2020)

Thanks for the feedback; I already ordered an Oregon 36" bar at 3/8 and .063. 

EDIT: I ordered a new 395xp too but it showed up all beat up. I'm returning it. Possibly an exchange. Gives me another chance to consider maybe going to a 572xp, though. I like the idea of the Autotune. Just don't like the idea of not being able to get a 36" bar on it, maybe. At least Oregon doesn't list a 36" one for it.


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## Blue42 (Mar 26, 2020)

rarefish383 said:


> If you found a saw you like go for it. My cousin gave me an old Homelite C5 he got at an auction for a dollar. It was a good runner, so I gave it to one of my buddy’s that wanted to try milling. He bought a 30 inch bar and chain for it on eBay. No one recommends a C5 for milling. But he mills with it all the time. He keeps a sharp chain on it and lets it cut at its own speed. If you put 200 ponds of pushing on a dull 880 or 3120, you can burn them up too. You can definitely use a small for the job saw if you use common sense and go slow. I picked up a Homelite Super 1050 at an auction for $150 and mill with it with a 36” bar and 404 chain. My main milling saw is a 660.


I appreciate this input. The old guy at our local Stihl dealer agreed, saying you could certainly use a smaller saw as long as you let it cool during your cuts. Somebody on one of the many threads I read said that the main challenge on running longer than recommended bars on saw isn't turning it over, it's keeping it oiled. I would not know the validity of that.


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## Blue42 (Jun 6, 2020)

I wanted to update this post. Over the last two months I got the saw, milled through a couple 8" or so logs without anything going wrong, welded up an exhaust for the saw with a dirtbike muffler mounted to the Granberg mill to quiet it town (working good, although it took forever to get together) and have now cut four or five slabs out of the 32" thick chestnut oak log. Also been working like a mule to haul those slabs to the top of the steep, steep hill the tree fell on with rope and pulleys. It's been every weekend 6 hours a day for most weekends doing one thing or another with the logs. So it's coming along, although, I sure don't know what I'm going to do with 40 slabs of 8' x 2.5' oak. 
Thanks for your advice to get all this going. I will post pictures and parts list on the exhaust setup when I get the time. I've just been working all week at my paying job, then working non-stop at my non-paying job every weekend for months and haven't gotten to it yet.


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## Assembler (Jun 6, 2020)

Blue42 said:


> I wanted to update this post. Over the last two months I got the saw, milled through a couple 8" or so logs without anything going wrong, welded up an exhaust for the saw with a dirtbike muffler mounted to the Granberg mill to quiet it town (working good, although it took forever to get together) and have now cut four or five slabs out of the 32" thick chestnut oak log. Also been working like a mule to haul those slabs to the top of the steep, steep hill the tree fell on with rope and pulleys. It's been every weekend 6 hours a day for most weekends doing one thing or another with the logs. So it's coming along, although, I sure don't know what I'm going to do with 40 slabs of 8' x 2.5' oak.
> Thanks for your advice to get all this going. I will post pictures and parts list on the exhaust setup when I get the time. I've just been working all week at my paying job, then working non-stop at my non-paying job every weekend for months and haven't gotten to it yet.


I would be interested in seeing the pictures of the dirtbike exhaust system and what you did the connect it all up. Thanks


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## Blue42 (Jun 8, 2020)

I plan on writing it all up, complete with parts list and instructions when I get to it. But here is a picture. Took forever to do. Welded most of it together. Have it all wrapped up now in DEI exhaust wrap. Used 304 stainless, which was probably overkill, and stainless is real, real hard to drill. The flexible piece is from McMaster Carr. Stainless exhaust tubing, semi rigid. 
It's pretty much perfect. Muffler is only held on with one bolt so that it will turn when i adjust the cutting height. And the semi rigid tubing bends. I can go to 9" or so. Could have cut it different to go deeper but then the tube would get in your way. Could have also put the muffler on the front rail but I figured it would block the view of the wood you're cutting. Probably wouldnt matter that much, though, and might be the better way to go. And I used a big muffler (often called a silencer for 2 strokes) known to be the quietest dirtbike muffler anyone knows of. KTM "hockeystick." Most are about 40% smaller than that, without the bend in it.


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## Blue42 (Jun 8, 2020)

Better shot.


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## Husky Man (Jun 8, 2020)

Blue42 said:


> Thanks for the feedback; I already ordered an Oregon 36" bar at 3/8 and .063.
> 
> EDIT: I ordered a new 395xp too but it showed up all beat up. I'm returning it. Possibly an exchange. Gives me another chance to consider maybe going to a 572xp, though. I like the idea of the Autotune. Just don't like the idea of not being able to get a 36" bar on it, maybe. At least Oregon doesn't list a 36" one for it.



AFAIK, the 572XP, is a D009 mount (Large Husqvarna) and will interchange bars with any Large Mount Husky saws, including the 3120XP.

Oregon may not "List" a 36" bar for a 572XP, because Husqvarna probably doesn't recommend a 36" bar on a 572XP.

I imagine that a 572XP would oil a 36" bar, but I doubt that I would put anything Bigger on it.

If you need a 36" bar for milling, I would suggest staying with the 395XP, Personally, even if you have to exchange the one you got especially if you will be milling a lot of Hardwoods, just MY Thoughts, Your Money and Choice,  


Doug


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## Assembler (Jun 8, 2020)

Thanks for showing the exhaust system you made looks like the flexible piece is from McMaster Carr is what makes it work. A dirt bike exhaust may also work as there is two mounting point in most cases. Just my 2 cents.


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## Blue42 (Jun 9, 2020)

That probably answers it then about a 372 with the longer bars. 
It was probably good I went with the 395xp, though. I was cutting through a section of the log that would barely fit in the mill, and had a big knot, and the saw was phased and broke a little sweat. When I first took it out of the box and started it and heard the big beast four stroking, I never thought it would even notice it was cutting anything. Would have been a challenge to get through that with less displacement. 
Now I just have to figure out how to stop the surface checking I've been getting on all the slabs. Im in the mid atlantic and it isnt low humidity here, but I think I'm going to put a tarp straight on all future pieces for a couple weeks to slow the drying at the surface.


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## Husky Man (Jun 9, 2020)

Blue42 said:


> That probably answers it then about a 372 with the longer bars.
> It was probably good I went with the 395xp, though. I was cutting through a section of the log that would barely fit in the mill, and had a big knot, and the saw was phased and broke a little sweat. When I first took it out of the box and started it and heard the big beast four stroking, I never thought it would even notice it was cutting anything. Would have been a challenge to get through that with less displacement.
> Now I just have to figure out how to stop the surface checking I've been getting on all the slabs. Im in the mid atlantic and it isnt low humidity here, but I think I'm going to put a tarp straight on all future pieces for a couple weeks to slow the drying at the surface.




I'm still new to milling myself, this is what I have heard many use to prevent end checking:




Google shows it available at Lowe's


Doug


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## Husky Man (Jun 9, 2020)

Blue 42, are you getting checking on the milled surfaces, or just End Checking?


Doug


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## Assembler (Jun 10, 2020)

Blue42 said:


> I plan on writing it all up, complete with parts list and instructions when I get to it. But here is a picture. Took forever to do. Welded most of it together. Have it all wrapped up now in DEI exhaust wrap. Used 304 stainless, which was probably overkill, and stainless is real, real hard to drill. The flexible piece is from McMaster Carr. Stainless exhaust tubing, semi rigid.
> It's pretty much perfect. Muffler is only held on with one bolt so that it will turn when i adjust the cutting height. And the semi rigid tubing bends. I can go to 9" or so. Could have cut it different to go deeper but then the tube would get in your way. Could have also put the muffler on the front rail but I figured it would block the view of the wood you're cutting. Probably wouldnt matter that much, though, and might be the better way to go. And I used a big muffler (often called a silencer for 2 strokes) known to be the quietest dirtbike muffler anyone knows of. KTM "hockeystick." Most are about 40% smaller than that, without the bend in it.


This will spur me on to make a similar exhaust system maybe very soon. Thanks.


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## AUSSIE1 (Jun 10, 2020)

Absolutely stick with the 395 for milling. As good as the 372 is, its lightly built for 36” milling.

make sure you do the dual port on the muffler.


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## Blue42 (Jun 11, 2020)

Husky Man said:


> Blue 42, are you getting checking on the milled surfaces, or just End Checking?
> 
> 
> Doug



Both Doug. I painted the ends with latex paint, but probably not soon enough, and only one layer. Didn't cut it. And I read an instruction somewhere that thicker logs need more sealant/layers. I suppose the expansion differential between fast and slow drying areas that much bigger as the log diameter gets bigger. I've read that some people put a layer of the AnchorSeal on any spots on the faces where there is end grain, which makes sense. But I don't have any. 
I just finally bit it and forked over $90 for a single gallon of BoraCare. I am going to have to pry the wallet open again I guess to spend $40 on one gallon of anchorseal. I read a bunch about cheaper alternatives and it's probably just not worth the trouble. Same thing for mixing your own Boracare. Not worth the trouble to me, unless I was cutting slabs constantly and really needed five gallons.


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## AUSSIE1 (Jun 11, 2020)

Blue42 said:


> Both Doug. I painted the ends with latex paint, but probably not soon enough, and only one layer. Didn't cut it. And I read an instruction somewhere that thicker logs need more sealant/layers. I suppose the expansion differential between fast and slow drying areas that much bigger as the log diameter gets bigger. I've read that some people put a layer of the AnchorSeal on any spots on the faces where there is end grain, which makes sense. But I don't have any.
> I just finally bit it and forked over $90 for a single gallon of BoraCare. I am going to have to pry the wallet open again I guess to spend $40 on one gallon of anchorseal. I read a bunch about cheaper alternatives and it's probably just not worth the trouble. Same thing for mixing your own Boracare. Not worth the trouble to me, unless I was cutting slabs constantly and really needed five gallons.



What about heavy black plastic? Tie around the trunk with tie wire tightly.


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## Blue42 (Jun 14, 2020)

The plastic would help with ends but I doubt it would keep it from cracking if it still cracked with a layer of latex paint directly on it. I think enough of the moisture would find a way out. Could be wrong though. 
However, I think a plastic sheet may be the ticket to stop checking on the faces without having to seal them and defeat the whole purpose since you do want them to dry eventually. I got some construction plastic at 4 mil thickness yesterday to put over the whole stack. Plan to seal it up, a little bit at least, to keep the moisture content higher in there for a while and slow the initial drying.


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## Blue42 (Dec 8, 2021)

After having no idea what I was doing, trying not to get hospitalized cutting a huge fallen tree on a super steep hill, learning how to mill, plane, etc., I finally made my first item from the slabs. Turned out good. And only took about 9,000 hours of work. 

It would have been a lot harder to do without this forum.


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## buzz sawyer (Dec 8, 2021)

Blue42 said:


> After having no idea what I was doing, trying not to get hospitalized cutting a huge fallen tree on a super steep hill, learning how to mill, plane, etc., I finally made my first item from the slabs. Turned out good. And only took about 9,000 hours of work.
> 
> It would have been a lot harder to do without this forum.


Very nice! Sycamore?


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## Blue42 (Dec 11, 2021)

buzz sawyer said:


> Very nice! Sycamore?


Thanks. No, it was a 150 year old chestnut oak. It was on the side of a hill with about a 20 degree incline and fell a year after we moved into this house. It was an awesome looking tree. I wish it was still up, but at least I have a lot of the wood from it milled and stacked now. 
It was real interesting hauling 200lb slabs up that hill. I've gotten pretty good with block and tackle. 
I used linseed oil on it. It turned it a little darker than I would have wanted, but it looks good.


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## buzz sawyer (Dec 11, 2021)

Blue42 said:


> Thanks. No, it was a 150 year old chestnut oak. It was on the side of a hill with about a 20 degree incline and fell a year after we moved into this house. It was an awesome looking tree. I wish it was still up, but at least I have a lot of the wood from it milled and stacked now.
> It was real interesting hauling 200lb slabs up that hill. I've gotten pretty good with block and tackle.
> I used linseed oil on it. It turned it a little darker than I would have wanted, but it looks good.


That's good stuff. My father had a big one taken down near his driveway. Nice wood to work with.


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## Charlie Coyote (Jul 13, 2022)

Blue42 said:


> Firstly, hello, as it's my first post on the site. I have already spent about 30 hours searching around for information on what to do, and I thought it was finally time I joined.
> 
> I have a 32" diameter chestnut oak that uprooted and fell last summer that I can't get out to the road, and need to mill on the spot. It was an awesome tree and I wish it was still up; but at least I can not let it just rot. I have spent about five Saturdays now on it; first trying and failing to pull logs I cut from it up the steep hill it's on, then a bunch more weekends chopping and sawing on it with hand tools. And then, no kidding, another ten saturdays over the last five months thinking about how to do it and what to do with it. Last weekend I finally gave up on my traditionalist preference and I am going to go the power route to get it done. A chainsaw with lake pipes and supercharger, blowing flames out the side, and an alaskan sawmill. I really want to get this done before tick and mosquito season, which is coming starting around May.
> 
> ...


I'm setting up my 36" mill with a 42" bar to 33" maximum approximately. Just beginning here, too.


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