# Best Splitting Axe - Opinions?



## BrentS (Jan 19, 2010)

I need to get a new splitting axe. The one I have is a piece of garbage, I think I got it at the hardware store years ago. The head is loose and I've seen spoons with a sharper edge (sharpening doesn't really help, it doesn't hold an edge for long). I read a couple posts talking about the Fiskars & Stihl splitting axes. Both seem to be nice. I also did some looking online and found a few other European models (Granfors & Oxhead). I get the feeling that all of them would be ok, a huge improvement over what I have. The Fiskars appear to be the least expensive of the bunch, although I'm not sure how I feel about a fiberglass/plastic/whatever handle..........the Gransfors & Oxhead axes were the most expensive. Any input would be great and much appreciated.

Thanks Guys-
Brent


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## SteveH (Jan 19, 2010)

I bought the Fiskars Super from the Bailey's sale this past fall. By the way, it is on sale there again.... It is great, I love it. 

Prior to this, I've always used a regular double-bit axe. I still do, love it as well. 

So, now I use both, though the Fiskar's is used about 80% of the time. It does work better than the axe. Well, not for those pieces you want to come out maybe 2 or 3 inches, but splitting rounds, it winds hands-down. 

I haven't used any of the others, but my expectation would be that any of the better-known ones will probably work about as well as any other. I did try a fiberglass-handled maul for a couple years, got it at Lowe's or somewhere and it did not work near as well as the axe or the Fiskars. 

By the way, the Fiskars seems to be pretty much unbreakable. I hope not to test this idea, but after three months I am sold on it. The $39 sale price convinced me to try it, glad it did.


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## Ironbark (Jan 19, 2010)

I have a Fiskars splitting maul and 2 Gransfors maul. 1 large and 1 small.

Don't be put off by the cheaper price of the Fiskars. I use the Fiskars much more than the Gransfors. Cant fault it really.


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## Arrowhead (Jan 19, 2010)

I have split hundreds of cords of wood with this maul and another just like it with a fiberglass handle. This one is 7 pounds with a 30" handle, the other is 6 pounds with a 26" fiberglass handle. I don't know the names of them I got them at Farm and Fleet, just generic mauls, but they work for me. The wood handle has less hand shock. I have heard all good things about the Fiskars, but never tried one yet. I usually burn Red Oak which splits easy with a maul. I now have 1.5 miles of Osage (hedge) the farmer said I can have. That called for a splitter so I broke down and bought one, it will even make a 30 ton splitter grunt, but it burns great.


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## SawTroll (Jan 19, 2010)

I have used the Fiskars "super splitter" for about 10 years, and is very happy with it!


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## cjrenegade82 (Jan 19, 2010)

Those are all good axes also look at helko. The fiskars handles are very durable I would not worry about them breaking. But they are short to split with and carry vibrations to your hands very well. Have you used a maul that is what I like to split with most of the time. If you can justify the price I would buy the granfor burks. But I have not used them all.The granfors just seems the best quality.


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## southbound (Jan 19, 2010)

helko Vario 2300G Heavy Splitting Axe


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## gmax (Jan 19, 2010)

I have a Fiskars Hatchet, very good quality for the price, if I was to get a
new splitting axe it would be Fiskars.


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## Erick (Jan 19, 2010)

Fiskars Super Splitter. Nuff said.


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## SWE#Kipp (Jan 19, 2010)

I love my Gränsfors splitting axe and my splitting maul, i had a couple of Fiskars before but in my opinion they are no were near as nice to work with as the Gränsfors axes !!!!

Go with the Gränsfors and you will be happy they cost a bit since they are handmade but they are well worth the money !!

I use my large splitting axe most of the time it handle most of the wood i split and the splitting maul makes short work of the larger gnarly pieces the other one does´nt handle 


Good luck !!


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## Scandy14 (Jan 19, 2010)

I recently received for Christmas a Craftsman 6 LB maul and have used it some. It seems to be better at splitting than my axe, because of the extra weight, I suppose.

I ordered a Fiskars Super Splitter maul last week, and it will be delivered on the brown truck tomorrow. I enjoy splitting wood and mostly bought the Fiskars axe because of all the positive reviews that I've read here on AS. Can't wait to try it out.


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## superduty5.4guy (Jan 19, 2010)

I use a Fiskars splitting axe and I love it. I just touch it up regularly like I do with my saw chain and its the best splitting axe I have used nice feel, super sharp, and super durable, cant really go wrong with the fiskars and it seems most agree. PS be careful with the fiskars, i sliced my thumb the first day I got it.


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## GrantC (Jan 19, 2010)

I'm very partial to the Gransfors Large Splitting Axe. Absolutely superb tool. There is very little a maul can handle that the LSA can't.

(They also make a maul, which I haven't used. If it's anything like their axes, it would be the King of Mauls!)

-=[ Grant ]=-


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## JayB (Jan 19, 2010)

I just recently got a Fiskars. Highly recommend it! Splits better than my old, much heavier maul.


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## bytehoven (Jan 19, 2010)

Fiskars Super Splitter

http://www.fiskars.com/webapp/wcs/s...ategoryId=10277&productId=10528&page=products


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## SawTroll (Jan 19, 2010)

SWE#Kipp said:


> I love my Gränsfors splitting axe and my splitting maul, i had a couple of Fiskars before but in my opinion they are no were near as nice to work with as the Gränsfors axes !!!!
> 
> Go with the Gränsfors and you will be happy they cost a bit since they are handmade but they are well worth the money !!
> 
> ...



Which Fiskars axes did you use?


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## Slamm (Jan 19, 2010)

Anybody have a photo of the 14" hachet with or/in the carrying case or sheath??? I like to carry a small hachet to get the saw out of a bind and I might like the little fiskar, but want to see what the carrying case looks like, and I can't find a photo of it.

thanks,

Sam


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## bytehoven (Jan 19, 2010)




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## Slamm (Jan 19, 2010)

Need a photo of the carrying case or sheath, because I like to keep it on a belt and use it for hacking out the chainsaw bar or smacking in wedges.

Thanks,

Sam


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## Rescue1 (Jan 19, 2010)

I like this Axe/Maul. It sometimes gets stuck in the big stuff,but when it goes through it blows the wood apart. Not bad for the price either...:greenchainsaw:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_147592-302-1217000_0_?productId=3013823&Ntt=axe&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntk=i_products$No=15$Ntt=axe


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## Slamm (Jan 19, 2010)

Hey, bytehoven,

Does that leather sheath setup come with the little hachet?? If not where did you get it and how much??

Thanks,

Sam


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## TRI955 (Jan 19, 2010)

Gransfor large splitting axe for me.


Mike


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## teatersroad (Jan 19, 2010)

My favorite splitting maul, St. Vincent Depaul 8# ($3.00) with the occasional new hickory handle. Then it's all zen. I looked at the Fiskars, but can't imagine using that short of handle. 33" exposed here, and I use every bit of it. 20% of the time the splitting wedge comes out (20" Juniper rounds). That's what works best for me.

http://www.woodheat.org/firewood/splitting.htm Not implying anything, just that I learned something here.


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## Erick (Jan 19, 2010)

Slamm said:


> Anybody have a photo of the 14" hachet with or/in the carrying case or sheath??? I like to carry a small hachet to get the saw out of a bind and I might like the little fiskar, but want to see what the carrying case looks like, and I can't find a photo of it.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Sam



Sam if you buy the Fiskars under the Gerber name you get a pretty nice nylon sheath with it.

This is the one I have, great little tool but way light for things like pounding wedges. It will surprise you though as to what it will cut, I've beat the fire out of mine and it's as good as the day I bought it... many.. many years ago.


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## pioneerguy600 (Jan 19, 2010)

Arrowhead said:


> I have split hundreds of cords of wood with this maul and another just like it with a fiberglass handle. This one is 7 pounds with a 30" handle, the other is 6 pounds with a 26" fiberglass handle. I don't know the names of them I got them at Farm and Fleet, just generic mauls, but they work for me. The wood handle has less hand shock. I have heard all good things about the Fiskars, but never tried one yet. I usually burn Red Oak which splits easy with a maul. I now have 1.5 miles of Osage (hedge) the farmer said I can have. That called for a splitter so I broke down and bought one, it will even make a 30 ton splitter grunt, but it burns great.



If you just want a splitting wedge for splitting wood then that is all a person really needs, I have a 6 lb and a 8 lb one like it made by truetemper, they are 35 years old or older and still splitting, the still will be when I am gone. The wood handles have been replaced a couple of times but they have not required sharpening, good enough tool steel to hold a good edge.
If you want a show off tool then spending heaps of money on a big name product that does the same job.
Pioneerguy600


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## Slamm (Jan 19, 2010)

Erick said:


> Sam if you buy the Fiskars under the Gerber name you get a pretty nice nylon sheath with it.
> 
> This is the one I have, great little tool but way light for things like pounding wedges. It will surprise you though as to what it will cut, I've beat the fire out of mine and it's as good as the day I bought it... many.. many years ago.



Thanks, Erick, are there local stores where you can get one of those Gerbers models. I like that nylon sheath, as I wouldn't have to unsnap two snaps just to get it out.

I know its not the best for pounding wedges, but I've used a smaller camp hachet and its is fine for setting wedges incase a tree might setback or wedging while bucking up large logs or tensioned stuff that might pinch the bar. If I need to really get a tree to go the other way I use the skidder, LOL.

Sam


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## Old51AVE (Jan 19, 2010)

That's a nice bit of kit! Did you make the leather goods yourself? 

Old51AVE :greenchainsaw:



bytehoven said:


>


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## bytehoven (Jan 19, 2010)

Slamm said:


> Hey, bytehoven,
> 
> Does that leather sheath setup come with the little hachet?? If not where did you get it and how much??
> 
> ...



I just found the image and posted it. Do a google image search for Fiskars Sheath and a couple of pages in you will see the pic. You might be able to order.

It is a nice setup.


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## Erick (Jan 19, 2010)

pioneerguy600 said:


> If you just want a splitting wedge for splitting wood then that is all a person really needs, I have a 6 lb and a 8 lb one like it made by truetemper, they are 35 years old or older and still splitting, the still will be when I am gone. The wood handles have been replaced a couple of times but they have not required sharpening, good enough tool steel to hold a good edge.
> If you want a show off tool then spending heaps of money on a big name product that does the same job.
> Pioneerguy600



Jerry I used to say the same thing "how much better can it be??? A wedge is a wedge right?" And just like you I stood by my old tried and true 8lb True Temper maul....... I'm telling you try the Super Splitter.

I said the same thing about the short handle and all.... I was the consummate skeptic. I don't know why it works all I know is it does. The damn thing defies physics. 

Don't waste your time or money on anything else, I've got the Stihl (Ox Head) sticking..... oooops I mean splitting axe, man did they ever mis-name that thing. On the other hand the Stihl is quite possibly the most perfect fallers axe ever made for pounding wedges and chopping out.

I've got the little fiberglass handle True Temper cheapie with the little wedge wings.... Nope



Most worthless piece of dung I've ever had the displeasure to waste money on.

The Super Splitter puts'em all to shame, that thing will split things you'd never in a million years think it'd split, and when you do come upon something that gives you fits picking up the ole tried and true 8lb'er gets you absolutely nothing more.

Only bad thing I can say about the Fiskars is that it almost will not stick..... yeah I know "but thats a good thing you idiot"..... not when you're splitting some nasty old Hickory and instead of sticking the round closes back up on the axe with enough force to through the axe head back at you and damn near split your wig. 

If you're used to the old long handled maul like I was the Fiskars will require you to make a few slight adjustments to how you do things but once you get it all figured out it splits like nothing else I've ever seen.


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## bytehoven (Jan 19, 2010)

BTW... 

It's also worth picking up one of those Fiskars blade sharpeners. I run my axe through the sharpener a few strokes before putting it away and it's honed back to a fine edge.


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## gwiley (Jan 19, 2010)

*ludell splitting axe*

The ludell splitting axe is the msot effective splitting tool that I have used. It has a long fiberglass handle that absorbs vibration well. You can find these at Lowes or Home Depot.


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## GM_DaddyMac (Jan 19, 2010)

Erick said:


> Fiskars Super Splitter. Nuff said.



:agree2:


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## Erick (Jan 19, 2010)

Slamm said:


> Thanks, Erick, are there local stores where you can get one of those Gerbers models. I like that nylon sheath, as I wouldn't have to unsnap two snaps just to get it out.
> 
> I know its not the best for pounding wedges, but I've used a smaller camp hachet and its is fine for setting wedges incase a tree might setback or wedging while bucking up large logs or tensioned stuff that might pinch the bar. If I need to really get a tree to go the other way I use the skidder, LOL.
> 
> Sam



Sam just do some searches they sell the Gerbers at Wally World, K-mart, Bass Pro, etc. I think you might have to pay a little for them to stamp the Gerber name on it but if you look around it shouldn't hurt to bad.


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## bullittman281 (Jan 19, 2010)

I've got a question for you guys. How long does the non-stick coating last? I bought a Fiskars a while back and splitting some elm round I could watch the coating wear off. After a couple of rounds it was all but gone. I'm talking way less that half a cord. The thing work pretty good but boy will it get stuck. On the elm rounds the old maul does the same thing with out getting stuck. I know your not supposed to split elm by hand but that's what I've done. I'm just curious what others travles with the coating have been. Let me know. 

Bullittman


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## SawTroll (Jan 19, 2010)

bytehoven said:


>



That is just a toy, in the context of splitting firewood........


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## Slamm (Jan 19, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> That is just a toy, in the context of splitting firewood........



Glad to see that you know that SawTroll. Because I'm sure nobody else is going to try and split wood with a little hachet like that.

Thanks,

Sam


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## CTSawTech (Jan 19, 2010)

For the price you really can't go wrong with the Fiskars SS.

I have it, use it often and love it.

It's light weight keeps me from getting tired out as quickly as those "other" heavier splitting axes.


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## teatersroad (Jan 19, 2010)

Erick said:


> not when you're splitting some nasty old Hickory and instead of sticking the round closes back up on the axe with enough force to through the axe head back at you and damn near split your wig.
> 
> If you're used to the old long handled maul like I was the Friskers will require you to make a few slight adjustments to how you do things but once you get it all figured out it splits like nothing else I've ever seen.



ok, I do believe in a better mouse trap, just haven't seen it yet. Maybe I can rent one of these from the ol' despot Having never cursed what I have though, it's hard to spend $50 on the next best thing.


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## howellhandmade (Jan 19, 2010)

I have the Fiskars Super Splitter, the Husqvarna (Gransfors) splitting maul, a hardware-store 6-lb. maul, and the Helko Tomahawk. Personal preference in mauls seems to vary quite a bit, but I use the Fiskars the most. It really is more than the sum of its parts. I want the Gransfors to work the best because it was the most expensive and has that handmade vibe and a comfy hickory handle. But going back and forth between them, I get more pop with less effort from the Fiskars. Yes, a lot of the nonstick coating has worn off, but I don't notice it getting stuck any more than the other mauls. The Helko may get stuck the least, but that's because it seems either to split the piece or bounce off. You could do like I did and spend $70 on the Helko and $90 on the Gransfors before trying the Fiskars. Or, you could try the $40 Fiskars first, and if you're one of the few people who don't seem to get along with it, then switch to the more expensive options. 

Jack


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## pioneerguy600 (Jan 19, 2010)

Erick said:


> Jerry I used to say the same thing "how much better can it be??? A wedge is a wedge right?" And just like you I stood by my old tried and true 8lb True Temper maul....... I'm telling you try the Super Splitter.
> 
> I said the same thing about the short handle and all.... I was the consummate skeptic. I don't know why it works all I know is it does. The damn thing defies physics.
> 
> ...




Well Eric, maybe you can`t teach old dogs new tricks. I most likely have different wood here to split, it splits easily with the tools I have or it gets noodled into submission. If all that fails we pull out the 40 ton V twin, I have yet to see something stop it. Frozen hardwood splits quite easily, usually only a bump or two will halve a 24" round, the rest splits off like kindling.
Pioneerguy600


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## Islander (Jan 19, 2010)

Fiskars 4# SS is my vote. 

I call it a splitting instrument.


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## Erick (Jan 19, 2010)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Well Eric, maybe you can`t teach old dogs new tricks. I most likely have different wood here to split, it splits easily with the tools I have or it gets noodled into submission. If all that fails we pull out the 40 ton V twin, I have yet to see something stop it. Frozen hardwood splits quite easily, usually only a bump or two will halve a 24" round, the rest splits off like kindling.
> Pioneerguy600



Oh I agree.... the ole 8lb'er split everything I needed for many a year and never once complained about it. That’s why I understand exactly where your coming from ... it wasn't until I got the Fiskars cheap that I gave the thing an honest shake. I'm not getting any younger or better looking for that matter and the ole body is starting to suffer all the aches and pains of a misspent youth. If I can get the same amount of work done swinging 4.5lbs that I used to do with 8lbs I'm a pretty happy feller.


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## StihlBoy440 (Jan 19, 2010)

I probably hand split atleast 10 cord a year, all oak(red, white) or hickory and I laugh at people when they swing those big 6-8lb run of the mill mauls. I took the big leap to buy the Gransfors Maul and HAVE never regretted it, and everyone that has used mine loves it. It is well balanced and I can use it for hours on end. It is just a well made tool!


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## teatersroad (Jan 19, 2010)

StihlBoy440 said:


> I probably hand split atleast 10 cord a year, all oak(red, white) or hickory and I laugh at people when they swing those big 6-8lb run of the mill mauls. I took the big leap to buy the Gransfors Maul and HAVE never regretted it, and everyone that has used mine loves it. It is well balanced and I can use it for hours on end. It is just a well made tool!



here's me, being laughed at.


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## porsche965 (Jan 19, 2010)

I'll run my Bailey's Monster Maul 15# against the field. Nothing comes close.

There was petrified White Oak that a Splitting Axe would bounce off of. The Baileys split the wood, sure numerous tries per section but it did. The wood was so hard my feet were coming off the ground and the corners of the Maul became rolled over after 30 minutes. I had to grind them back. 

Hardest wood I've ever seen. My two firewood friends hauled the stuff home and couldn't do anything but saw it up. We don't use machine splitters. 

I think I sold two more Monster Mauls for Baileys after that episode!


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## bytehoven (Jan 19, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> That is just a toy, in the context of splitting firewood........


:agree2:

I by no means meant to suggest otherwise. I simply posted some pics at Slamm's request.


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## SWE#Kipp (Jan 20, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> Which Fiskars axes did you use?



Used two of them a medium one and a larger one, the larger one was ok i think, don't remember the weight on them 
they are good axes but i just don't think as nice to work with as the gränsfors and the steel in the fiskars seems to be more brittle !?
I was a bit disappointed by them, i now allot of people think they are top notch i might have bad pair ,,,,,


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## gwiley (Jan 20, 2010)

porsche965 said:


> I'll run my Bailey's Monster Maul 15# against the field. Nothing comes close.



I agree that the monster maul can do some impressive work, but I feel the damage to my shoulder and elbows after using it. I pull mine out on rare occasion, but more and more I reach for the splitting axe - it is amazing. 

The way the monster maul transmits vibration back to the arms is bad news for long term joint health. Be careful about spinal compression as a result of using so much force and impact - I suspect that the lighter splitting axes are not as hard on the body.


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## mkohler (Jan 20, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> I have used the Fiskars "super splitter" for about 10 years, and is very happy with it!



+1

I have the 28" pro splitting axe. Was a little reluctant due to it's shorter length and lighter head compared to traditional mauls but I bought one anyway cause of the great reviews. Works great, doesn't get stuck in the wood, light and easy to swing (over the head, not around the shoulder). 

Just have to make sure you set your logs up on a splitting block. You don't want to drive the head into the dirt, the super sharp blade is part of what makes it work so well.


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## pioneerguy600 (Jan 20, 2010)

Erick said:


> Oh I agree.... the ole 8lb'er split everything I needed for many a year and never once complained about it. That’s why I understand exactly where your coming from ... it wasn't until I got the Fiskars cheap that I gave the thing an honest shake. I'm not getting any younger or better looking for that matter and the ole body is starting to suffer all the aches and pains of a misspent youth. If I can get the same amount of work done swinging 4.5lbs that I used to do with 8lbs I'm a pretty happy feller.



Well I agree on the better tool making the job easier on my aging body. My dad split wood with his double bitter, it was actually a double bitted felling axe, he used an axe all his life and developed a special method of how to split with one. We could not get him to switch over to any other splitting tool. He split 20 cords of wood a year well up into his 80`s with his double bitter. I also learned how to do it from watching and working with him but I prefered the weight of the splitting wedges.
Pioneerguy600


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## SteveH (Jan 20, 2010)

I have one of the cheapie splitting mauls with fiberglass handle. I say cheap as it was around $20 a couple yr. ago. I figured it would fill in where the axe didn't go. I bought it to replace a wood handled maul that I couldn't keep in a handle, the shock kept eventually cracking the wood. After two years, the fiberglass handle is loose. 

I didn't want to spend the money on a Fiskars or whatever, plus I figured the heavier maul would be better. Then I got the Fiskars from the Bailey's sale and when I got it, it felt odd with the shorter handle. After a few minutes of using it, however, I realized you don't swing the thing over your shoulder for a power smash. You don't swing it over head nor do you need to. With much less power, the Fiskars does more than the maul ever did even if I swung the maul with everything my body could come up with. You use more of a chop than a swing.

So, after doing more work, more efficiently, with the Fiskars, my shoulder and elbow and arms are not burning or sore as they could sometimes be with the maul. 

I guess one could say the Fiskars works smarter. It weighs much less than a maul, takes less human energy to use, works better at splitting. I doubt I'll ever use that maul again, probably give it away if I find someone who wants it. 

All the tools work, axes, mauls, splitters, wedges plus sledges, and so on. Some of them just do an easier job.


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## howellhandmade (Jan 20, 2010)

With a 6-8 lb. maul with a 32-in. handle, you swing the head around in a long arc. You can build up a little extra speed by letting your wrists cock and finishing with a snap, but you can't do this too much because the weight of the head and the length of the arc keep a fairly straight line between your elbows and the maul head.

With the Fiskars, the light weight and short length encourage holding a much more pronounced lag in your wrists, leading to a greater flail action as you release the lag at the end of the swing and the head snaps around. It's like a golf swing -- the greater the lag and the longer you hold it, the greater the speed of the club/maul head. That's the key, I think, letting the head lag behind the hands and finishing with a snap. It's safer, too, with the Fiskars to hold the lag and release the swing with your hands low. That way if the round flies apart the head drives down into the splitting block instead of continuing in an arc toward your feet.

I spent a couple hours splitting this morning, and had all my mauls out with this thread in mind. There are rounds that need the weight of the 6-lb. maul, but for everything else I prefer the Fiskars. Different strokes, etc. If anybody has a Fiskars and doesn't like it and wants to try the Helko Tomahawk I'll trade straight across.

Jack


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## BrentS (Jan 20, 2010)

Wow, look what I started.......great info, a lot of different opinions. It'll make my decision easier, or at least more educated.......

Thanks Guys


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## Slamm (Jan 20, 2010)

I don't split wood by hand, but it looks like its fiskars all the way.

Sam


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## Ironbark (Jan 20, 2010)

Gransfors vs Fiskars. 

Stihl vs Husky is soooo last year :hmm3grin2orange:


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## teatersroad (Jan 20, 2010)

anyone here ever woods port a splitting maul?


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## rxe (Jan 20, 2010)

> anyone here ever woods port a splitting maul?



Er, yes. One of these would probably count:

http://www.vipukirves.fi/

If you want to make stove sized (house stove, not owb) logs with reasonably straight grained wood, there is nothing to beat it. It really does work like the video says. 

It is useless at busting big rounds in half - I use a gransfors maul for that, but for turning a big round into small bits, it is the daddy.


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## BIGBORE577 (Jan 20, 2010)

rxe said:


> Er, yes. One of these would probably count:
> 
> http://www.vipukirves.fi/
> 
> ...


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## lmalterna (Jan 20, 2010)

Well, that was neat!

I love my Wetterlings...
http://www.wisementrading.com/woodworking/gransfors_axe.htm

2Door


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## SawTroll (Jan 20, 2010)

rxe said:


> Er, yes. One of these would probably count:
> 
> http://www.vipukirves.fi/
> 
> ...



It is not "ported" though, but stock factory issue......


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## SawTroll (Jan 20, 2010)

SWE#Kipp said:


> Used two of them a medium one and a larger one, the larger one was ok i think, don't remember the weight on them
> they are good axes but i just don't think as nice to work with as the gränsfors and the steel in the fiskars seems to be more brittle !?
> I was a bit disappointed by them, i now allot of people think they are top notch i might have bad pair ,,,,,



What annoys me with wooden handle axes is that you need to set them in water for some time now and then, to make the head stay on - and then they rust. If you haven't used them in a while, you don't really know if they are ready to be used, or not.

I had a smaller (2lbs head) "Husky" branded Granfors (as a "woods" axe), but I didn't like it, for that reason (I have no idea where it is today and don't care).


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## Taxmantoo (Jan 20, 2010)

Slamm said:


> Glad to see that you know that SawTroll. Because I'm sure nobody else is going to try and split wood with a little hachet like that.



I use them to split stove wood into kindling. 
Thinking of buying a leather handled Estwing E24A, too bad the Fireside Friend is plastic handled now. 





Or, alternately, I could get something to match my Super Splitter, probably the 14", the 8" just seems too tiny:


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## shovelhead11 (Jan 20, 2010)

I have always wanted a Gransfors maul. But just couldn't bring myself to pay that much for one. So I got a Helko Vario heavy splitting axe. It works better than anything I have ever used. Of course I have never used a Gransfors or oxehead. Maybe someday.


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## lmalterna (Jan 20, 2010)

True that wooden handles can dry and shrink but please do not soak in water. Instead use something like linseed oil and thin with acetone or a flo additive for oil based paints.... it will soak in the end grain and seal the handle...

I also use binding tape on my splitting maul handle just below the head. Prevents splinters from gouging the handle over time.

For hollow handle tools, I fill with Great Stuff expanding foam to deaden vibrations a little.

2Door


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 20, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> What annoys me with wooden handle axes is that you need to set them in water for some time now and then, to make the head stay on - and then they rust. If you haven't used them in a while, you don't really know if they are ready to be used, or not.
> 
> I had a smaller (2lbs head) "Husky" branded Granfors (as a "woods" axe), but I didn't like it, for that reason (I have no idea where it is today and don't care).


 I found a good solution to prevent the handle becoming loose. The best wooden handles are the ones that aren't split to recieve the wedge as these seem to split and break alot sooner. I drive a small wedge into the solid wood.
Fibreglass handles seem the way to go although the wooden ones have a better feel about them.
John


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## teatersroad (Jan 21, 2010)

rxe said:


> Er, yes. One of these would probably count:
> 
> http://www.vipukirves.fi/



nice Finnish


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## teatersroad (Jan 21, 2010)

pasted from the link earlier in this thread:

Use a six-pound maul rather than the eight or ten-pound models. A lighter maul can be swung much FASTER. Velocity is more important than mass in producing results. Perhaps this is related to the laws of physics, which state that energy is proportional to the SQUARE of velocity, but only DIRECTLY proportional to mass. Thus, the maul head should be traveling as fast as possible when it strikes the wood. It takes a very strong person to properly accelerate a large maul.

********

You are going to get more velocity with the longer handle though, so even without a wrist snap on 8#, well... it's a different tool for a different job. like hammers and nails.

my shed, my wood: Wedges, maul, splitting maul, and one fss (to be had)


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## Finland (Jan 21, 2010)

*Problem solved*



SawTroll said:


> What annoys me with wooden handle axes is that you need to set them in water for some time now and then, to make the head stay on - and then they rust. If you haven't used them in a while, you don't really know if they are ready to be used, or not.
> 
> I had a smaller (2lbs head) "Husky" branded Granfors (as a "woods" axe), but I didn't like it, for that reason (I have no idea where it is today and don't care).



Hello
I know your problem. 
It has been solved in my invention.
Below some advice from my websites.

* Thanks to the special method of fastening the blade to the handle, the blade of theVIPUKIRVES™
does not come off the handle even if the handle dries out.

* Do not place your VIPUKIRVES™ into a container of water to make its handle swell. 

VIPUKIRVES STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS:
The physical properties of wood include that it becomes drier in dry surroundings, and then it also shrinks. This may cause the blade to become slightly loose on the handle and show some movements with respect to the handle. however, thanks to the way it is attachedto the handle, the blade will not come off.

You can prevent this loosening by storing your VIPUKIRVES in the woodshed or other such non-heated facility. If this is not possible, keep the axe in some other facility where the air is naturally damp, e.g. bathroom, outdoor storage room.

However, if there is looseness between the handle and the blade, proceed as follows: Wrap the blade end of your VIPUKIRVES in a damp towel and then place a plastic bag over it. Close the bag. Leave for a few days. The handle will then swell back and the blade will again grip tightly.

* VIPUKIRVES is well painted to prevent the rust*

A lot of information can be found about VIPUKIRVES / LEVERAXE from GOOGLE, You Tube , and http://www.vipukirves.fi/english/index.htm Best regards from Finland
Heikki, the inventor


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## procarbine2k1 (Jan 21, 2010)

I love my Ludell splitting axe. I painted the head white/ red instead of black, because I have a habit of laying it down in the woods. The Fiskars looks nice though, may have to give one of those a shot sometime.


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## SawTroll (Jan 21, 2010)

lmalterna said:


> True that wooden handles can dry and shrink but please do not soak in water. Instead use something like linseed oil and thin with acetone or a flo additive for oil based paints.... it will soak in the end grain and seal the handle...
> 
> I also use binding tape on my splitting maul handle just below the head. Prevents splinters from gouging the handle over time.
> 
> ...



I have actually thought of linseed oil, but never got around to try it.

Staying with Fiskars was an easy way to get around the issue!


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## SawTroll (Jan 21, 2010)

Finland said:


> Hello
> I know your problem.
> It has been solved in my invention.
> Below some advice from my websites.
> ...



Looks like you solved the *danger *issue of a loose head, *but not the basic problem.*
"A few days" out of commision is not acceptable, when you need the axe!


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## Finland (Jan 21, 2010)

*Additional information*



SawTroll said:


> Looks like you solved the *danger *issue of a loose head, *but not the basic problem.*
> "A few days" out of commision is not acceptable, when you need the axe!



As I stated in my previous message, the axe blade WILL NOT get rid of the handle even if it is dry. It may become wobbly, loose, but it will keep in the handle, shaft.
This is because of the form of the eye in the blade .It is conical.The other end of the hole is bigger. 

The end of the shaft is formed to be exactly fit to the eye of the blade. So, even if the shaft is dry, it will get tighter on each strike. It may give some extra noise when you split, but it does not have any significance.

Heikki


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## teatersroad (Jan 21, 2010)

Finland said:


> The end of the shaft is formed to be exactly fit to the eye of the blade. So, even if the shaft is dry, it will get tighter on each strike. It may give some extra noise when you split, but it does not have any significance.
> 
> Heikki



what you are describing is the typical handle arrangement for a pickaxe.


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## SawTroll (Jan 21, 2010)

Finland said:


> As I stated in my previous message, the axe blade WILL NOT get rid of the handle even if it is dry. It may become wobbly, loose, but it will keep in the handle, shaft.
> This is because of the form of the eye in the blade .It is conical.The other end of the hole is bigger.
> 
> The end of the shaft is formed to be exactly fit to the eye of the blade. So, even if the shaft is dry, it will get tighter on each strike. It may give some extra noise when you split, but it does not have any significance.
> ...



Even if the head stay in place, the looseness still will cause wear and tear - I sure would feel bad, using it in that condition!

Btw, why do you think that putting the head end in a wet towel for days, with a plastic bag around it, will cause less rust than putting it in a bucket of water for a few hours?


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## teatersroad (Jan 21, 2010)

Finland said:


> Hello
> I know your problem.
> It has been solved in my invention.



btw..bravo to you for having an idea and running with it.


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## Finland (Jan 21, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> Even if the head stay in place, the looseness still will cause wear and tear - I sure would feel bad, using it in that condition!
> 
> Btw, why do you think that putting the head end in a wet towel for days, with a plastic bag around it, will cause less rust than putting it in a bucket of water for a few hours?



Your choice. I only told about my solution to the problem.

The axe blade is well painted, so it will not get rusty, except the places which touches the wood while splitting. That is why it is advisable to put some oil to the blade every now and then.

The reason why I don't recommend to put the blade to the water is, that in the water may be all kind of bacteria that may cause rotting in the shaft. If you cover the blade to a moist towel and put it to a plastic bag then the humidity in the bag is clean without any bacteria, so you will not damage the shaft.

The easiest way to avoid these "problems" is to keep the AXE in a place where is natural moist in the air.

All these things are explained In my websites + much more. I will anyway answer you willingly to relevant questions, if any.

Heikki:computer:


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## edisto (Jan 21, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> Even if the head stay in place, the looseness still will cause wear and tear - I sure would feel bad, using it in that condition!
> 
> Btw, why do you think that putting the head end in a wet towel for days, with a plastic bag around it, will cause less rust than putting it in a bucket of water for a few hours?



It's not the rust that is the issue (the paint on the head prevents that).

It's a matter of soaking vs. hydrating the wood. The towel will add moisture, and swell the head. Putting the head in water is a *bad* idea, because the wood swells *too much*, and the lignin fibers become overly compressed. They don't bounce back, so one the handle dries out, the head will be more loose than before.



Finland said:


> The reason why I don't recommend to put the blade to the water is, that in the water may be all kind of bacteria that may cause rotting in the shaft.



Another good reason not to soak them.


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## SawTroll (Jan 21, 2010)

edisto said:


> It's not the rust that is the issue (the paint on the head prevents that).
> 
> It's a matter of soaking vs. hydrating the wood. The towel will add moisture, and swell the head. Putting the head in water is a *bad* idea, because the wood swells *too much*, and the lignin fibers become overly compressed. They don't bounce back, so one the handle dries out, the head will be more loose than before.
> .....



OK, that sounds logical.

.... but it still doesn't solve the issue of several days down time, with the damp towel and plastic bag method!


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## Erick (Jan 21, 2010)

I thought you needed to be a sponsor to advertise your products for sale on AS???? :dunno:


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## SawTroll (Jan 21, 2010)

Erick said:


> I thought you needed to be a sponsor to advertise your products for sale on AS???? :dunno:



I also thought about that - one of the reasons that I have been a bit critical to his claims *in public*, instead of discussing it in pms first.


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## edisto (Jan 22, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> OK, that sounds logical.
> 
> .... but it still doesn't solve the issue of several days down time, with the damp towel and plastic bag method!



That's what the wedge is for!


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## Finland (Jan 22, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> OK, that sounds logical.
> 
> .... but it still doesn't solve the issue of several days down time, with the damp towel and plastic bag method!



I suppose you do not work 24 / 7. There are also nights in between. The handle is so tight in my invention, that so far the blade and the shaft have been together without the problem you stated earlier. In some cases when my product has been in a dry showroom for a long time, there have bee some small loosening. The shaft is made of totally dry wood, so that most probably the next environment where it is, is definitely moister. This means that the connection will be tighter. 

*"I also thought about that - one of the reasons that I have been a bit critical to his claims in public, instead of discussing it in pms first. "*

If you read carefully my writings before, you will not find any such sentence, where I have said " BUY THIS AXE"
I have never told that. It is totally an other story what kind of image you make in your mind.

I read this site and took part to it with my own ideas how I have solved them in purpose to help you. You do not have to buy this axe.

I am still willing to answer to your questions in case they are relevant. I am not going to worry about all the problems in the world.

I have a lot to give you, the choice is yours.

Best regards

Heikki:computer:


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## rxe (Jan 22, 2010)

Well, here's my collection. I am obviously an axe-tart. I have AAD, or whatever the CAD equivalent is.







I've never had a problem with the heads coming loose - one of the few advantages of having a rather damp garage.


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## BrentS (Jan 22, 2010)

Well, I am no longer without a maul.......my wife wanted to surprise me for my birthday and got me a 12lb Collins Mega Maul.........it's got a 30" steel handle and weighs a TON. It feels like you are holding a metal pipe with an anvil welded to it over your head.......I tried splitting a couple of pieces with it, however it definitely needs to be sharpened. It doesn't come with any kind of edge on it. I tried it on a partially dry piece of locust, it came down with a massive THUNK and made a 1" deep wedge-shaped gouge in the wood. That's it. Time to wear out a grinding wheel! I guess it'll be fine for the really big stuff, however it's definitely not something I'm going to use on a regular basis. I'm leaning towards the Fiskars Super Splitter, after reading all the info given on this thread. 

Thanks Guys-
Brent


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## SteveH (Jan 22, 2010)

BrentS said:


> Well, I am no longer without a maul.......my wife wanted to surprise me for my birthday and got me a 12lb Collins Mega Maul.........it's got a 30" steel handle and weighs a TON. It feels like you are holding a metal pipe with an anvil welded to it over your head.......I tried splitting a couple of pieces with it, however it definitely needs to be sharpened. It doesn't come with any kind of edge on it. I tried it on a partially dry piece of locust, it came down with a massive THUNK and made a 1" deep wedge-shaped gouge in the wood. That's it. Time to wear out a grinding wheel! I guess it'll be fine for the really big stuff, however it's definitely not something I'm going to use on a regular basis. I'm leaning towards the Fiskars Super Splitter, after reading all the info given on this thread.
> 
> Thanks Guys-
> Brent






It's been my experience, that, contrary to what I thought before I got that experience, the big, heavy, massive mauls really don't work as well as the splitting axes such as the Fiskar's. I certainly haven't tried everything, and the Fiskar's is the only example of its type I've tried, so my experience is limited in some ways. However, it appears to me that the design [profile] of the splitting head, whatever tool it is, is at least as important, if not more so, than the mass of the head. I have an 8-lb. maul that will sometimes actually bounce up from the top of a round, no matter how hard I swing it. On the other hand, the Fiskar's has never done so. Neither does my regular double-bit axe, and I've pretty much put the maul away, probably forever. The lighter Fiskar's does a better job--it just does--than the big maul. Now, I can stick the maul into a round, then use a sledge to hammer it in and it will usually work. However, that is a lot of physical effort to do the same job a Fiskar's-like tool will do without the sledge and hammering the darn thing thru the round. There is probably a reason from physics that this is the case, something to do with the way the Fiskar's is shaped and the way the energy is transferred to the actual splitting of the round. 

[I haven't tried to reshape the profile of the maul with a grinder, perhaps that would make it work better..... I am really not interested it the labor, the Fiskar's was $39 at Bailey's, geez.]


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## SWE#Kipp (Jan 23, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> What annoys me with wooden handle axes is that you need to set them in water for some time now and then, to make the head stay on - and then they rust. If you haven't used them in a while, you don't really know if they are ready to be used, or not.
> 
> I had a smaller (2lbs head) "Husky" branded Granfors (as a "woods" axe), but I didn't like it, for that reason (I have no idea where it is today and don't care).



The " husky brand" is not Gränsfors they have there axes made by Wetterling which are very good hand made axes but not as well made as the Gränsfors and the handles are one those things ,,,
never had a handle get loose on the Gränsfors axes don't think i had on any of my wood handle ones but i store in a cool place when not in use and oil them once a year !!
I like the feel of wooden handle so for me it's well worth the extra job to wipe them over with a oily cloth


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## SWE#Kipp (Jan 23, 2010)

rxe said:


> Well, here's my collection. I am obviously an axe-tart. I have AAD, or whatever the CAD equivalent is.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



That is a nice trio of axes


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 23, 2010)

rxe said:


> Well, here's my collection. I am obviously an axe-tart. I have AAD, or whatever the CAD equivalent is.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



What's the one in the middle, and how much does it weigh? Is the handle a 36 or 32?
Thanks,
Gypo


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## SawTroll (Jan 23, 2010)

Finland said:


> ......
> 
> *"I also thought about that - one of the reasons that I have been a bit critical to his claims in public, instead of discussing it in pms first. "*
> 
> ...



OK, your info was interesting anyway, so I hope that you get away with it!


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## SWE#Kipp (Jan 23, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> What's the one in the middle, and how much does it weigh? Is the handle a 36 or 32?
> Thanks,
> Gypo



The one in the middle is a Gränsfors splitting maul weight is 3,2kg and the handle is 80cm !


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## SawTroll (Jan 23, 2010)

SWE#Kipp said:


> The one in the middle is a Gränsfors splitting maul weight is 3,2kg and the handle is 80cm !



Close to 32" then!


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 23, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> Close to 32" then!


 32" would be too dangerous unless the guy using it is under 5'2" or stand with his feet 5' apart.
Gypo


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## SawTroll (Jan 23, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> 32" would be too dangerous unless the guy using it is under 5'2" or stand with his feet 5' apart.
> Gypo



That depends on what is under the spitting object!

I usually use an about 24" stub under the splitting object, and use steel toed chainsaw boots when splitting.


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 23, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> That depends on what is under the spitting object!
> 
> I usually use an about 24" stub under the splitting object, and use steel toed chainsaw boots when splitting.


 SawTroll! Real men don't use splitting blocks except to make kindling!
Using a 24" block only loses you 24" of swing.:greenchainsaw:
Gypo


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## SawTroll (Jan 23, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> SawTroll! Real men don't use splitting blocks except to make kindling!
> Using a 24" block only loses you 24" of swing.:greenchainsaw:
> Gypo



I see how you think, but I believe it depends on your hight, relative to the handle, and how high the "target" is?

Anyway, I don't want my axe to hit the ground when the split is done.

What doesn't split pretty easily, I leave to a chainsaw for noodling - I love to do that!


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## nanuk (Jan 23, 2010)

*I got two favorites*

1) the neighbours... when he's using it to split my wood

2) an 8 lb maul with full cheeks. I reshaped mine just a bit to round it out, cause it was too flat.

I think most general purpose axes are made with to thin cheeks, or none. Even works are some that are concave! And they don't even make good felling axes.


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## shovelhead11 (Jan 23, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> I see how you think, but I believe it depends on your hight, relative to the handle, and how high the "target" is?
> 
> Anyway, I don't want my axe to hit the ground when the split is done.
> 
> What doesn't split pretty easily, I leave to a chainsaw for noodling - I love to do that!




For me, using a block to split wood is much easier on my back. And I don't want my axe/maul hitting the ground either.


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## Eric Modell (Jan 23, 2010)

Gypo the short handle sharp mauls are great to use at the wood pile, on a block. The heavier long handle American styles maul works well for me in the woods with the rounds on the ground.


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 23, 2010)

Eric Modell said:


> Gypo the short handle sharp mauls are great to use at the wood pile, on a block. The heavier long handle American styles maul works well for me in the woods with the rounds on the ground.


 Yes, I see the utility of both methods now and the two different handle lengths.
90% of my splitting has been in the bush right where the blocks were cut using a 6#maul with 36" handle.
John


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## SawTroll (Jan 23, 2010)

shovelhead11 said:


> For me, using a block to split wood is much easier on my back. And I don't want my axe/maul hitting the ground either.



:agree2: exactly!


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 23, 2010)

shovelhead11 said:


> For me, using a block to split wood is much easier on my back. And I don't want my axe/maul hitting the ground either.



I've found that splitting wood with a maul is good for your back. Since 81 Ive done at least 5000 cords, 50% of that with a 6# maul and it never bothered me if I hit dirt, rock etc., and my back is still A1. Knock on wood. Had I put every block on a chopping block I'd still be on the first 1000 cords. Wasn't it DDM that was using a flat piece of 1/2" sheet metal as a chopping block? Lol
Gypo


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## gmax (Jan 23, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> I've found that splitting wood with a maul is good for your back. Since 81 Ive done at least 5000 cords, 50% of that with a 6# maul and it never bothered me if I hit dirt, rock etc., and my back is still A1. Knock on wood. Had I put every block on a chopping block I'd still be on the first 1000 cords. Wasn't it DDM that was using a flat piece of 1/2" sheet metal as a chopping block? Lol
> Gypo



I use a 8lb maul If I didn't use a chopping block I would just be bashing the wood into the ground, I want the wood I'm trying to split to absorb the full impact not the ground beneath it.


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 23, 2010)

gmax said:


> I use a 8lb maul If I didn't use a chopping block I would just be bashing the wood into the ground, I want the wood I'm trying to split to absorb the full impact not the ground beneath it.


 After so many years of splitting wood, I had to learn to split under all conditions including deep snow, mud, 12" of moss and on slopes. The best though is a nice clean, flat landing.
Gypo


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## SWE#Kipp (Jan 24, 2010)

Never hit myself when splitting with those axes and i'm 193cm/6,3' , i split on the ground in the woods and on a splitting block with a car tire mounted on top when at home the last option really speeds up the splitting


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## nanuk (Jan 24, 2010)

*can You elaborate a bit more?*



SWE#Kipp said:


> ..... on a splitting block with a car tire mounted on top when at home the last option really speeds up the splitting



car tire mounted on top?


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## SWE#Kipp (Jan 24, 2010)

Yes so the wood don't fall of the splitting block


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## Finland (Jan 24, 2010)

nanuk said:


> car tire mounted on top?



I have used car tire since 1989

http://www.vipukirves.fi/kuvagalleria/index.htm :agree2:


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## matteke (Jan 31, 2010)

I'm usung the fiskars 2400 .
It's really a great tool.

greetings:greenchainsaw:


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## Terry Syd (Jan 31, 2010)

*Bucket*

I'm a little bit late to this thread, but my grandfather had a bucket of sand with old motor oil in it that he sunk his splitting axe head into when he was finished splitting for a while

It kept the handle tight and the head from rusting.


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## rxe (Jan 31, 2010)

Well, I've just finished an epic week end of log splitting - I reckon I'm now sorted for burning season 2011 - 2012! 

Yes, that middle axe is a Gransfors maul. It isn't too short (I'm 6'3"), and I do use a block - generally one of the rounds from whatever tree I am chopping up. I do all of the splitting next to the log pile, otherwise it is too much of a pain to restack the longs. 

I was using both the lever axe and the maul, they make a brilliant combination. For a reasonably sane round (not completely knotted) the lever axe is the ideal tool, because you don't have to pick all of the bits up time and again. Imagine you have a big round - say 32" across. You dump it on the block, spilt it. You move both halves, then split them. Then you move 4 quarters, and split them. You might even move 8 eights, and split them. Then you pick the whole lot up and stack it. With the lever axe, you just keep splitting lumps off the round, no picking up until the end. The car tyre does the same sort of thing. That said, when you need brute force, reach for the maul.

The small axe in the picture is wonderful for making kindling - a one handed splitting axe. You can chop a lump into matchsticks in a few seconds.


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## coppersnowblue (Jan 31, 2010)

Fiskers Super Splitter


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## edisto (Jan 31, 2010)

I picked up a lightly used Fiskars SS from a member here on the Trading Post the last time Bailey's had a sale (saved a few bucks).

I'd gone through all of the bipolar threads of those that loved it, and those that hated it, and was interested in giving it a try.

Bottom line is that it isn't magic, but it is very well designed. The short handle felt odd holding it, but not when swinging. The length didn't cause me any difficulty because I split on a log, and not on the ground. 

In general, it works better when I don't swing it all the way around, like I do a maul. Just hold it over your head and bring it down. For big pieces, or tough hickory, I can swing it all the way around, but it makes it hard to keep the head vertical, and if you hit near the edge with the head on an angle, the head has a tendency to spring to the side.

I would say that the design makes it work like the head was 3 pounds heavier than it is, and I can swing a lot longer and a lot safer without the extra 3 pounds.


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## TN_WOOD (Feb 3, 2011)

Finland said:


> I have used car tire since 1989
> 
> KIRVES: Heikki Vipukirves :agree2:


 
That site has some super cool photos. Really like the one with all the logs wrapped together in that cart. You could load the wood and split right there and save quite a few steps. 

I'm late to the party, but that splitting tool also looks cool.


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## zogger (Feb 3, 2011)

*That is all kinds of interesting*



TN_WOOD said:


> That site has some super cool photos. Really like the one with all the logs wrapped together in that cart. You could load the wood and split right there and save quite a few steps.
> 
> I'm late to the party, but that splitting tool also looks cool.


 
---what a neat design! And ya, the hauling/splitting trailer is nice as well.

You look at something as ancient as the ax, from caveman days on, and we are still making it better. 

I was at wallyworld today, they have the 28 inch x25 SS, BUT it has a redesigned head compared to the model I bought last year. It is broader in the blade like the new 36 inch handle, and has the splitter wings beveled better so it doesn't get stuck as easy in the round. 40 clams.

They also had the fiskars machete! Me want. Lacks a scabbard, but it is light and sharp and the handle is A-1, 15 bucks.

What I would like from them is the machete, but with the two hands sized handle like they have on the brushhook. I made something like that ages ago with a regular machete and a cut off axe handle, worked great. Even added a custom brass hilt just for fun. It took a hike with my other cool stuff when my storage locker got robbed


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## SawTroll (Feb 4, 2011)

The best one I have used is the Fiskars Super Splitter (heavy axe, not maul) - but I have of course not tried them all.....

I mostly use a (wooden) splitting block.


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## gmax (Feb 4, 2011)

I used to use 8 Lb maul until I tried a Fiskars Super Splitter, I don't use the maul anymore I find the Fiskars more efficient.


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## Grande Dog (Feb 4, 2011)

Howdy,
The X series Fiskars with the 36" handles finally came in a couple days ago.
Bailey's - Fiskars X27 36" Super Splitting Axe

Regards
Gregg


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## SawTroll (Feb 4, 2011)

matteke said:


> I'm usung the fiskars 2400 .
> It's really a great tool.
> 
> greetings:greenchainsaw:



That is the one that they call "Super Splitter" in the US, and the same one that I use.


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## CLINT-THE-GREAT (Jan 5, 2012)

I just placed my order for the X27...look forward to seeing how well it works. Thanks for all the input and advice.

Clint-The-Great


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 7, 2013)

*This makes the skill of flipping the ax head*

to increase the splitting power unnecessary. All you have to do is hit where you want the block to split.

KIRVES: Heikki Vipukirves

KIRVES: Heikki Vipukirves


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## madhatte (Jan 8, 2013)

Yeah, but that thing's like 200 bones. It's cheaper to do it this way:

[video=youtube_share;7fWo0P0MdJM]http://youtu.be/7fWo0P0MdJM[/video]


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## Bill G (Jan 8, 2013)

Nice Video


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## mrnecsteve (Jan 8, 2013)

Taxmantoo said:


> I use them to split stove wood into kindling.
> Thinking of buying a leather handled Estwing E24A, too bad the Fireside Friend is plastic handled now.
> 
> 
> ...



I picked up one of those Estwing hatchets a few months back. (I use it for debranching before I feed the log into the hydraulic splitter,I sit down on a mechanics stool while splitting) 
Its one nice hatchet and will stay fully functional for 25 years or more like my other Estwing stuff (frameing hammers,regular hammers,crowbar,masonry hammer, carpenters hatchet...etc)


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## jra1100 (Jan 8, 2013)

I use the Fiskars long splitting axe. I used to use a 12 lb splitting maul, and I find that the Fiskars will split almost all of what the big one will, and with greater ease. I am convinced that the pretty Finnish splitter will not do well with the stringy Red Elm that I prefer to burn. The Fiskars does OK with the smaller stuff, but the 12 inch and above goes on the Log Boss splitter and that makes short work of it. 

I have never tried the Gransfors, and would like to, but the cost is a bit much for an old cheap skate like me. JR


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## solo (Jan 8, 2013)

I carry a fiskars axe in the woods for driving wedges while felling. I had a tree roll of the stump and busted the handle, no questions asked here's a new one. It took alot to break. Very tough handles, run them over with the skidder, what ever you can think of, probably won"t break it. Very light weight and tough as heck.


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## blue0331 (Jan 8, 2013)

*Fisker..*

[video=youtube;pLULLzZuMn8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=pLULLzZuMn8#![/video]



I have a Fisker Hatch and I can say it is great. I was surprised with it ability to cut through even larger rounds. You will be happy with them.


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## ncsawguy (Jan 8, 2013)

has anyone ever used council tools. just wondering herd they were pretty good.


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## Iron Head (Jan 9, 2013)

madhatte said:


> Yeah, but that thing's like 200 bones. It's cheaper to do it this way:
> 
> [video=youtube_share;7fWo0P0MdJM]http://youtu.be/7fWo0P0MdJM[/video]



That chick got some balls.
In that town men are men and women are men.


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## Iron Head (Jan 9, 2013)

blue0331 said:


> [video=youtube;pLULLzZuMn8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=pLULLzZuMn8#![/video]
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Fisker Hatch and I can say it is great. I was surprised with it ability to cut through even larger rounds. You will be happy with them.



Infomercial or something?
How realistic is that demonstrating on clean debarked half dried partially split chunks of straight grained firs without a single branch knot?
Of course the Fiskars is going to eat through that easy stuff. A cereal spoon is capable of eating through that.


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## old cookie (Jan 9, 2013)

If she burns the biscuts I bet her old man says,hay that is just the way i like them baby.


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## Iwannacutfast (Jan 9, 2013)

Local hardware store sells a maul with a 12 pound head and a 30" steel handle looks like a cave man club does any one have any expirence with these? I split wood for a work out and I swing cut down 20 pound sledges with my right and left hands at my wedge so the weight doesn't really bother me.


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## mrnecsteve (Jan 9, 2013)

blue0331 said:


> [video=youtube;pLULLzZuMn8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=pLULLzZuMn8#![/video]
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Fisker Hatch and I can say it is great. I was surprised with it ability to cut through even larger rounds. You will be happy with them.



Yep...and I cant get my trees to fall in a neat circle like that.


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## knothole (Jan 9, 2013)

Been there and done that as far as manual splitters goes. Various mauls and axes over the years from 2# to 10#. Picked up a Fiskars X25 from Wally world. NEVER thought it stood a chance but it's the best splitter I've found. I only split on a block of wood. Very "comfortable" to split with.


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## arrow13 (Jan 9, 2013)

I did my research last year to find the best splitter, keeping in mind the cost too. Read a lot of reviews.
I chose the Fiskars with the longest handle. Glad I did. Love this splitter. Saves me a lot of swinging. The weight is far better than my old wood and fiberglass splitting mauls too. Great policy in case it breaks you get a new one. Wish that it could be used for pounding too but the instructions with it say that you should not pound with the blunt end, just split with the sharp end. Oh well, still love this new tool. Have split about five cords so far of alder, hemlock, spruce and fir here in WA.


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## Rockjock (Jan 9, 2013)

After reading all the posts I thought I would give the Fiskars a try. I have a splitting axe with a 6lb head and thought I have nothing to lose.. Do not like it take it back. Well I worked the night shift, popped into Canadian Tire ( kinda like a Home Depot ) and saw the x27 36" handle for 54.99. Take it to the cash 59.99.. I ask if they can check if the price is right .. Then I am told if it is priced wrong I get 10.00 off so 44.99 ! I am thinking pay and get out.. I get it home and it splits great. Much easier than my old one. Life time warranty so thats a bonus as well.


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## mrnecsteve (Jan 9, 2013)

mrnecsteve said:


> Yep...and I cant get my trees to fall in a neat circle like that.



I think that I shall just "make do" with my old 6lb maul ...instead of useing the "wally world-china" connection.


from wikepedia:
Originally a Finnish manufacturer, Fiskars is now a holding company that imports from countries around the world, primarily China. Their largest holding is Fiskars Brands, which still produces the traditional craft and garden products that made the company famous. This division is headquartered in Madison, Wisconsin, United States.


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## WACutter (Jan 9, 2013)

old cookie said:


> If she burns the biscuts I bet her old man says,hay that is just the way i like them baby.



LMAO - That is funny. 

Cute and can handle an axe. It doesn't get much better than that!

Back on Topic - this is an old thread. Probably like many of you guys, I have collected a bunch of axes, mauls, hatchets, etc. My 2 cents on a few.....

Fiskars Maul- I use this one the most. It is light, doesn't stick, and gets the job done.
Fiskars Hatchet - This is super handy for splitting up the small stuff for the fireplace, and always goes camping with the family.
Gransfors Maul- Very nice, works very well, but for some reason I don't use as much as the Fiskars. I've had this for years, and I think the new ones are a little overpriced.
Craftsman Maul - Inherited from my dad, and it must be 50 years old. It works, I don't baby it, and it is a great sledgehammer. Sticks way more than the Fiskars or Granfors
Stihl Maul - This is a rebranded Oxhead from Germany. Good for stubborn wood, but pretty heavy and it sticks a bit as well. Nice quality for the money.

The Heikki Vipukirves looks interesting, but is $268 shipped to the US. While it has received mixed reviews, I am glad someone took the time to build a high quality, innovative product.

Guys who are cheap and/or say that their old maul works great should really try a Fiskars. They will make your splitting easier, and usually can be had under $50. The fancy axes (i.e. Oxhead Stihl, Gransfors, etc.) are nice to have from a pride of ownership perspective, but really don't split any better


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## GrassGuerilla (Jan 9, 2013)

madhatte said:


> Yeah, but that thing's like 200 bones. It's cheaper to do it this way:
> 
> [video=youtube_share;7fWo0P0MdJM]http://youtu.be/7fWo0P0MdJM[/video]



Anyone else want a cigarette after that? Not sure where that vid was shot, but the chicks around here don't hold a candle to her!


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## arrow13 (Jan 9, 2013)

*Council axe*



ncsawguy said:


> has anyone ever used council tools. just wondering herd they were pretty good.



I've got one council axe head on a boy scout length handle. I keep it in one of my vehicles with a leather sheath on it. It's got decent steel. Nothing real special about it but it was nice to learn that is was made in the good old US of A. I plan on keeping it for that reason alone. If I come across another, I'll pick it up too. I frequent garage sales looking for good hand tools like these.


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## CLINT-THE-GREAT (Mar 15, 2013)

knothole said:


> Picked up a Fiskars X25 from Wally world. NEVER thought it stood a chance but it's the best splitter I've found. I only split on a block of wood. Very "comfortable" to split with.



You got your X25 at Walmart? I haven't seen any Fiskars Axe' over the small 12". How much was it at Walmart?

-The Great


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## Bill G (Mar 15, 2013)

GrassGuerilla said:


> Anyone else want a cigarette after that? Not sure where that vid was shot, but the chicks around here don't hold a candle to her!



I am sure she is tough but do you want to meet this gal???????????? Testing bulletproof glass in 1932 - YouTube


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## sledrat (Mar 15, 2013)

pioneerguy600 said:


> If you just want a splitting wedge for splitting wood then that is all a person really needs, I have a 6 lb and a 8 lb one like it made by truetemper, they are 35 years old or older and still splitting, the still will be when I am gone. The wood handles have been replaced a couple of times but they have not required sharpening, good enough tool steel to hold a good edge.
> If you want a show off tool then spending heaps of money on a big name product that does the same job.
> Pioneerguy600




With you on this one pioneerguy and your way of thinking 
I agree fully some of the old stuff you just cant beat!
if you like getting taken when your at the store and you got cash to throw around 
go ahead..
If i could i would use ancient viking axe if it worked well//

Infact i think it would be cool to use a AXE older than i...
Ha some old axe heads are worth 20X times a new fiskars
but shhhh!!  


[email protected]


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## bennn*e (Mar 15, 2013)

I have got both a helko tomahawk 2.3kg splitter
Helko - World of Axes

And the fiskars X27 
X27 Splitting Axe (36") / Products - Buy Online (Price $58.99) | Fiskars

Even though the handle on the helko is slightly shorter ive found it can still pack more of a punch in our hard woods here then what the fiskars can


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## Sherwood stoker (Mar 19, 2013)

*2.3kg Helko vario doing well*

Had the Helko for 3 years & am impressed with it,
Very effective, copes well with twisted knotty rounds & rarely ever sticks,
Would work even better if I could get through all the splitting while it's green though!:msp_rolleyes:


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## 4x4American (Mar 20, 2013)

granfors bruks all the way. Spendy but worth every penny. I have the american felling ax and it is top of the line. The quality they produce is incredible..soon as I get some more money saved up I'm planning on getting the GB hunters axe. GB sure makes a proper tool.


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## ttyR2 (Mar 20, 2013)

Totally happy with my X25 and X27. Not having a healthy back anymore, can't really swing a heavy maul for extended periods. With the wood we have around here, the Fiskars get the job done quite nicely. My dad scoffed until he tried the X27. Now he has one as well as five of his buddies


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