# Asplundh whisper chipper JEY



## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 6, 2016)

Having a hell of a time finding parts for clutch/pto on my wood chipper anyone have any advise on where I could find parts for it or a used pto that would work thanks ,
Mike


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 6, 2016)

Diy mechanic mike said:


> Having a hell of a time finding parts for clutch/pto on my wood chipper anyone have any advise on where I could find parts for it or a used pto that would work thanks ,
> Mike



Whoo whoo!,,,, old Ford parts,,
Jeff


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 6, 2016)

Yeah I feel like I'm fighting an uphill battle here trying to fix it because taking the chipper clutch off was a mfer and now that I got it apart and got new clutch plate I'm having no luck finding any parts for the over center pto assembly because the person I got it from.wore the clutch out basically as much as u could so my throw out bearing housing/seat thing is wolerd out and the part that that housing/seat slides on is broke off to the bearing cover if u know what I'm talking about has 3 bolts in it keeping it over bearing for shaft those are the two parts I need... I feel.like im gonna have to jus replace the whole pto assembly


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## ropensaddle (Jul 7, 2016)

Get the number and make model off the pto tag


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 7, 2016)

Where is this tag located on it I haven't noticed any tag and I have it pretty much apart at the moment


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## ropensaddle (Jul 7, 2016)

Diy mechanic mike said:


> Where is this tag located on it I haven't noticed any tag and I have it pretty much apart at the moment


Usually there is a metal tag on the rounded area behind the pulley its usually on bottom.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 7, 2016)

Do u have to have pulley off to see it because I don't actually have that part off


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## ropensaddle (Jul 7, 2016)

Diy mechanic mike said:


> Do u have to have pulley off to see it because I don't actually have that part off


no probably covered in grease


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## ropensaddle (Jul 7, 2016)

When u find the casting number try calling these guys

http://www.foleyengines.com/products/engine-parts/power-takeoff-clutches


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## ropensaddle (Jul 7, 2016)

Im assuming your talking about the pto slider bearing and lever assembly inside thats bad?


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## ropensaddle (Jul 7, 2016)

If you can't find it ill look at mine tomorrow and try to help.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 7, 2016)

The slider bearing is.bad and the part that slides over shaft that has three bolts bolted to bearing housing that I guess the slider bearing slides on.... can I post pics on here


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 7, 2016)




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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 7, 2016)

Found the tag sumone painted over it so it blended in under there and it was barely attached so I jus took it off and soaked in gas and paint came off with Lil scraping thanks alot for the help I was beginning to think I had a major or deal but this should help a lot would u know what those parts are called in pic so I don't call and have to explain what it does cuz I hate doing that over the phone cuz it jus sounds like jiberish usually unless it's a mechanic ur talking to then they can decifer the code ur speaking haha


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## ArtB (Jul 7, 2016)

Any self respecting DIY that puts Diy mechanic in his screen name should have as a minimum a welder, stock of scrap steel, a metal lath, and a mill. ( I did see you are only 23 YO, so probably cannot afford those 'toys' yet? - get a welder first, then lathe, the mill can be later <G>)

Easy to make that part from scratch - weld up scrap till similar shape, then machine to fit.

Or, use arc welder an nickel rod and preheat the parts first. Cool with old R-11 insul batt thrown over it.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 7, 2016)

Yup a diy mechanic in the making lol but I do everything mechanically I can with what tools I do have so basically dmoiy (do most of it yourself) guy haha but I got ahold of ppl and the guy lead me to a Web page and showed me where to go and had me point out the parts I needed on a picture they had on their site Foley engines.com


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## ropensaddle (Jul 7, 2016)

ok mine is a funk model c5jz-7275-7 spec 1584 look here and call them the number is on the part you unbolted from! it shows the location on the diagram here page 16 i think! 

http://www.foleyengines.com/sites/default/files/FunkManual.8.31.15.Final__0.pdf


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## ropensaddle (Jul 7, 2016)

ArtB said:


> Any self respecting DIY that puts Diy mechanic in his screen name should have as a minimum a welder, stock of scrap steel, a metal lath, and a mill. ( I did see you are only 23 YO, so probably cannot afford those 'toys' yet? - get a welder first, then lathe, the mill can be later <G>)
> 
> Easy to make that part from scratch - weld up scrap till similar shape, then machine to fit.
> 
> Or, use arc welder an nickel rod and preheat the parts first. Cool with old R-11 insul batt thrown over it.


Haha I'm a diy shade tree 54 years with welder and I ain't attempting to make that lol


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## ropensaddle (Jul 7, 2016)

Diy mechanic mike said:


> Yup a diy mechanic in the making lol but I do everything mechanically I can with what tools I do have so basically dmoiy (do most of it yourself) guy haha but I got ahold of ppl and the guy lead me to a Web page and showed me where to go and had me point out the parts I needed on a picture they had on their site Foley engines.com


So they hook you up ? I found them just in case mine ever needs parts!


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 7, 2016)

Yeah haha well if u have means to make it do it cuz those parts in pic cost me 901 whipper snappers from Foley engines but they were exellent help .... but they should offer veterans discount cuz they hit the wallet hard there I was thinking maybe they jus wanted arm or leg but they took the left nut haha


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 7, 2016)

But I guess in the end I'm still ahead I bought machine for 1500 buck's wit clutch issue now I'm about to have new clutch and pto parts and I got 2500 in it so not bad if I look at it that way and Craigslist has same machine but with 4cyl ford engine for 4900 so I look at it being alright since mine does have way more balls


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## ropensaddle (Jul 7, 2016)

Diy mechanic mike said:


> Yeah haha well if u have means to make it do it cuz those parts in pic cost me 901 whipper snappers from Foley engines but they were exellent help .... but they should offer veterans discount cuz they hit the wallet hard there I was thinking maybe they jus wanted arm or leg but they took the left nut haha


I'll give the left but not muh right  I'm just glad to know they can fix them cause when mine goes down going to need them!!


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## ropensaddle (Jul 7, 2016)

Diy mechanic mike said:


> But I guess in the end I'm still ahead I bought machine for 1500 buck's wit clutch issue now I'm about to have new clutch and pto parts and I got 2500 in it so not bad if I look at it that way and Craigslist has same machine but with 4cyl ford engine for 4900 so I look at it being alright since mine does have way more balls


Yes and a left nut


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## ropensaddle (Jul 7, 2016)

When you get ready to assemble it make sure the piolet bearing will slip over that shaft because that is why its hell to get off and on if it is file it until it can slip on! The end of the shaft gets swelled and well hopefully your understanding me?


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 7, 2016)

Yeah my pilot bearing was seized on shaft and it blew apart so the inner ring of bearing was still on had to cut it off wit dremil but will do on filing that end down so it slides on and off cuz I dont want anymore problems ... and yeah it is nice to know there are parts still even tho they cost a testicle or two lol


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## ropensaddle (Jul 7, 2016)

Diy mechanic mike said:


> Yeah my pilot bearing was seized on shaft and it blew apart so the inner ring of bearing was still on had to cut it off wit dremil but will do on filing that end down so it slides on and off cuz I dont want anymore problems ... and yeah it is nice to know there are parts still even tho they cost a testicle or two lol


I used a roll lock disc on my air angle grinder and dressed the end up but a file will work!

LOL I draw the line; only one testie


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## ArtB (Jul 7, 2016)

Diy mechanic mike said:


> parts in pic cost me 901 whipper snappers



OUCH!

You could have bought a used welder and a lathe off craigslist for that, and had them for life and all future similar projects. 

Full disclosure: did not get my first metal lathe till I was 27 YO , so there is hope for you (Grin). Have had a metal lathe for close to 45 years now.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 8, 2016)

Im sure it's a nice thing to have in high school I use to love working on the metal and wood lathes I was really good at that sum day would like to get one to play with but gotta make sum cash for them toys and I got toys to fix to make cash now the chipper then a bucket truck boom is next on the to do list right now I'm finishing up a rebuild on a c50 dump truck had to get new clutch for that also but was a simple fix becides the engine rebuild lol


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 26, 2016)

so i got my parts installed for the pto and all put back together now i'm having a fun time trying to figure out how to get my blades out so i can put spare ones in and resharpen others. i have all 16 allen screws out. loaded the whole thing down with wd40 and let it set over night before doing that so i thought the wd40 would have loosened everything up since those allen screws came out smoothly thought they were gonna be stuck but were just torqued to like 100ftlbs. any secrets to the magic of removing blade wedges? and havnt gotten to the cutting bar removel yet but figured it needs sum love too since im dishing it out right now haha


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## ropensaddle (Jul 26, 2016)

Diy mechanic mike said:


> so i got my parts installed for the pto and all put back together now i'm having a fun time trying to figure out how to get my blades out so i can put spare ones in and resharpen others. i have all 16 allen screws out. loaded the whole thing down with wd40 and let it set over night before doing that so i thought the wd40 would have loosened everything up since those allen screws came out smoothly thought they were gonna be stuck but were just torqued to like 100ftlbs. any secrets to the magic of removing blade wedges? and havnt gotten to the cutting bar removel yet but figured it needs sum love too since im dishing it out right now haha


the offset hole in wedge "short bolt" It's a cap to keep crud out put one of the long bolts in it and tighten until it pushes wedge out! in other words the 3 long one short that come out of the blade wedges the short "offset hole" is a pusher hole I hope i'm making sense lol


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## ropensaddle (Jul 26, 2016)

Cutter bar has two big bolts that need removed then under the cutter bar holder is set screws and jam nuts that set its height. You will need to back them out some to remove the holder be careful it likes to fall when you least expect it! Once its out,, allen bolts hold the bar to the holder and it has 4 sides flip it to un unused side put back in but wait to adjust until your blades are in and set to the bore. Don't put it in backwards it has a bevel before the mating surface the bevel will face the feed table!


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## ropensaddle (Jul 26, 2016)

Note; on blade bolts if the allen heads have any slop with the allen wrench replace them, its no fun cutting a bolt head off if they strip!


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## ropensaddle (Jul 26, 2016)

Most here use anti seize on the blade bolts! Torque them at least 3 times to make sure they are set and tight. You do not want the wedge or blades flying out!


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## ropensaddle (Jul 26, 2016)

To adjust the blades to bore slide the blades over to drum each side and adjust them flush to the bore casting! If your not sure what im talking about, I will take a picture of mine tomorrow! I usually double check while adjusting until both sides of the blade meets the bore indicator then center blade drop in wedge and torque 3 times minimum.

After that is done, carefully adjust cutter bar up to near.020 of the blades again double check each blade "turning it backwards by hand" make sure none hit the cutter bar.

torque cutter bar holder set jam nuts and recheck that blades do not touch cutter bar!

Use gloves and disconnect battery if not already done before setting blades.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 26, 2016)

ok so i did try the long bolt in short hole bcuz i thought it had to be a special deal but didnt try to tighten that tight didnt wanna strip it but since that is for sure the way ill go for it again tomorrow and thanks for all the further instructions on the rest cant wait to get this puppy shredding like a champ... ill get back with ya tommorrow sumtime and hopefully i get blades out easily as it seems lol


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 26, 2016)

and a picture of part u were talking about would defiantly be helpful like the sayin picture worth a thousand words


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## ChoppyChoppy (Jul 26, 2016)

I'd **** can the WD40 and use some decent penetrating oil. PB Blaster, Kroil, etc, etc.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 26, 2016)

well hey the wd40 worked is all i gotta say ive used pb blaster works good too... wd40 just available in gallon jugs for me and i just used industrial spray bottles cheaper that way and not paying for compressed air so saving the wallet stress and getting job done works for me. im not a picky lube guy if spit worked id just do that lol but about to put the crankin on blade wedge been raining this morning so got delayed


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 26, 2016)

got the blades out thanks for the tip glad they came out easily so how short can these blades get by sharpening before they are to far gone just wondering cuz i have a few with sum pretty serious knicks in them


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## ropensaddle (Jul 28, 2016)

Diy mechanic mike said:


> got the blades out thanks for the tip glad they came out easily so how short can these blades get by sharpening before they are to far gone just wondering cuz i have a few with sum pretty serious knicks in them


Take them to a reputable sharpener they will or should know specs angles etc. My memory says two inches but i'm a tad old so i don't trust it on critical stuff Ok i'll get a picture and explain the bore indicator gimmie few mints


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 28, 2016)

Cool and thanks alot again for ur help would be a bump on a log without this site haha or jus broke as crap from paying ppl but like I stated in my screen name I prefer to be the dyi guy on most everything I can take on


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 28, 2016)

And there isn't anything better then to know the ins and outs of your own equiptment bcuz u never know when sumthing could happen and knowing how to fix it on spot could really come in handy


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## ropensaddle (Jul 28, 2016)

Ok see that edge with wedge out slide blade side to side on top of adjusters and adjust the blades edge on both sides to it! That edge marks the bore and simplifies height adjusting of blades.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 28, 2016)

Ok so that's what those bolt's are down there I was wondering if the blades sat on those when I took them out I didn't really see how it was in there cuz I jus loosen it and spun drum and let blade and wedge all fall out so blade edge shouldn't be past the round part on outside of drum or I guess start of angle edge should be 1/4 " from edge of drum


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## ropensaddle (Jul 28, 2016)

Diy mechanic mike said:


> Ok so that's what those bolt's are down there I was wondering if the blades sat on those when I took them out I didn't really see how it was in there cuz I jus loosen it and spun drum and let blade and wedge all fall out so blade edge shouldn't be past the round part on outside of drum or I guess start of angle edge should be 1/4 " from edge of drum



Slide the blade over against drum to set the blades by raising or lower adjusters "yes down there" After you get it all adjusted and double checked both sides then center the blade and drop wedge in and bolts and torque!


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## ropensaddle (Jul 28, 2016)

I may not be explaining it right, disregard my installed set in picture! Wedges and blades out, place blade in hole on the adjusters slide blade over against drum on one side and adjust it until flush with the edge I pointed at! do other side same way and double check sliding it against drum both ways!

Do all blades this same way!


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## ropensaddle (Jul 28, 2016)

You understand what I'm getting at ? with the bolts and wedge out of that picture the blade will slide against the drum by hand, the adjusters can then be lowered or raised by turning until the blade is even with the edge I pointed at with my turkey striker! 


After height is established the wedge can be put in and blade centered and bolts put in and torqued.


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## ropensaddle (Jul 28, 2016)

We had mechanics at my last job that did not know this. They put new blades in and chipper wouldn't chip without pushing it through! The blade height setting is what makes it grab wood and pull it into cutter bar!


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 28, 2016)

Ok gotchya so blade edge should be at same height as the round edge on the housing wall and I understand on the slide left and right to make sure blade is level across ways so it not crooked in there.... well I hope I can find sumone to sharpen these for me or I'm gonna have to buy new blades or a.sharpener I found a good one for the job I think jus pricey it's a "makita horizontal wet wheel blade sharpener".... I'm hopin I can find sum body I been calling around and been getting tossed around like a Frisbee and all deadends but still searching cuz will be way cheaper to get them sharpened and keep them sharp


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 28, 2016)

Icic makes sense so blades adjust evening across with circle on drum housing and what should the cutter bar be adjusted to from blade tips


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## ropensaddle (Jul 28, 2016)

Diy mechanic mike said:


> Ok gotchya so blade edge should be at same height as the round edge on the housing wall and I understand on the slide left and right to make sure blade is level across ways so it not crooked in there.... well I hope I can find sumone to sharpen these for me or I'm gonna have to buy new blades or a.sharpener I found a good one for the job I think jus pricey it's a "makita horizontal wet wheel blade sharpener".... I'm hopin I can find sum body I been calling around and been getting tossed around like a Frisbee and all deadends but still searching cuz will be way cheaper to get them sharpened and keep them sharp


The angles are touchy we sharpened them on a lappit machine 25k lol


Diy mechanic mike said:


> Icic makes sense so blades adjust evening across with circle on drum housing and what should the cutter bar be adjusted to from blade tips


Well to be honest they say .020 but its critical they do not touch! I always adjusted them in field by eye as close as possible without them touching was my motto  Which usually meant a business card 

Always carefully rotate the rotor by hand backwards to make sure everything clears after torquing


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## ropensaddle (Jul 28, 2016)

After its all set you will be amazed at what it will eat!


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## ropensaddle (Jul 28, 2016)

Diy mechanic mike said:


> Icic makes sense so blades adjust evening across with circle on drum housing and what should the cutter bar be adjusted to from blade tips


Yup the bore and feed plate, table etc are optimized to work with the blade height adjusted to the bore!


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 28, 2016)

Gotchya sounds like I got chipper all lined out assuming I can find a person to sharpen blades bcuz I've called so many places and still getting nowhere fast I'm about to jus give up and take them to this guy that says he could get them sharp jus don't know how straight he can keep edge since they so long


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## ropensaddle (Jul 28, 2016)

Diy mechanic mike said:


> Gotchya sounds like I got chipper all lined out assuming I can find a person to sharpen blades bcuz I've called so many places and still getting nowhere fast I'm about to jus give up and take them to this guy that says he could get them sharp jus don't know how straight he can keep edge since they so long


lol no no you be better off sending them to get sharpened than getting half assed


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 28, 2016)

Icic well I know there is a place within 150 miles but don't wanna drive there maybe I'll call and see if they do mail-ins so it won't cost me so much


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## ropensaddle (Jul 28, 2016)

You only got one set ?


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 28, 2016)

I've got 2 sets that are both pretty bad shape one is better off then other tho but yeah I have few connections to sum Amish folks so gonna try them and one other try my high school metal shop teacher that's still there and I'm sure they have a machine to get it done and I was pretty cool wit him in school so gonna try that also and if I contact him I'll probably be able to get semi-access to metal shop jus have to contact him but would be a good deal for future deals like this/resharpening


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## jefflovstrom (Jul 28, 2016)

ropensaddle said:


> The angles are touchy we sharpened them on a lappit machine 25k lol
> 
> Well to be honest they say .020 but its critical they do not touch! I always adjusted them in field by eye as close as possible without them touching was my motto  Which usually meant a business card
> 
> Always carefully rotate the rotor by hand backwards to make sure everything clears after torquing



We use a handsaw blade laid on the anvil and adjust to that,,, beautiful,
Jeff


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## Diy mechanic mike (Aug 25, 2016)

Ok so im back I got blades sharpend torqued to 120ft/lbs adjusted cutting bar after flipping it to my last good edge... and transmission all back together and everthing and I can't for the life of me get it to start now been replacing electrical stuff cuz my key switch was giving me probs before like the key would turn and a gear would slip inside keyswitch and I'd have to turn key slowly so it would start but it would work but i replaced it for new one and since it sat for the time of me working on it she ain't wanting to go now I know there isn't much to the electrical stuff but I'm stumped been trying things any hints or tips would be awesome cuz im willing to try it all


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## Diy mechanic mike (Aug 25, 2016)

I can get it to turn over by taking a wire and connecting bat/pos to starter directly and it turns but wire get's hottttttt but the key will not crank only clicks and solenoids buzzes and the battery is good I jus bought it 2 months ago for my dump truck and it starts that up np but chipper nah


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## jefflovstrom (Aug 25, 2016)

You sure live up to your name "Diy mechanic"
Jeff,, 
Maybe replace the starter and solenoid?


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## BC WetCoast (Aug 25, 2016)

When you turn the key on can you get the starter to spin by shorting between the terminals?

Are you getting power to both sides of the ignition switch (use an volt meter)?

Are your relays and fuses good?

The power cable from the battery to the starter, does it have good connections (no green crusties in the connections)? Do you have a good ground connection?

If you do some you tube searches for no crank no start, you will get some good advice from several of the mechanic channels. Some of them can get a little sophisticated with scopes and stuff, but some of the videos give good basic advice. The channels I like are South Main Auto, Jim the Car Guy, Motoyam82, Scanner Danner, Briansmobile1 and Schrodingers Box. Watching these videos has increased my mechanic knowledge about 100 fold.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Aug 25, 2016)

When key is turned on yes I can jump the solenoid and get it to spin but my wires ground and positive get really hot when I do it after 10 or so cranks the wires begin to melt idk if that is a problem but it does happen..... and I have replaced keyswitch and the universal solenoid and still buzzin and clicks is all I get like the battery is dead but it obviously is not cuz I can put it back in dump truck.and fire her right up and have done that every day I work on chipper so it has fresh charge and I'm starting to loose it cuz idk what is wrong hell it started right up before I took pto off and changed clutch and now I got new clutch and pto parts and freshly sharpend blades and she don't wanna fire so she can blow my mind by how good it shreds with fresh blades


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## BC WetCoast (Aug 26, 2016)

Again, check your connections and check your grounds. It sounds like a voltage drop somewhere in the system. Check the voltage at the starter. I believe it should be close to battery level.
Check your starter relay.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Sep 6, 2016)

Ok so I'm a jack*** I figured it out I hooked my ignition switch power supply to the starter output power supply instead of positive wire to input on solenoid so that's why my key wouldn't do nothing it didn't have power to do anything lol took me a week to figure that out such a simple mistake almost drove me bonkers and once I noticed it I hooked it up right and turned key and got scared cuz she started up and and didn't expect it too lol


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## hseII (Sep 6, 2016)

Diy mechanic mike said:


> Ok so I'm a jack*** I figured it out I hooked my ignition switch power supply to the starter output power supply instead of positive wire to input on solenoid so that's why my key wouldn't do nothing it didn't have power to do anything lol took me a week to figure that out such a simple mistake almost drove me bonkers and once I noticed it I hooked it up right and turned key and got scared cuz she started up and and didn't expect it too lol



"Before" Pictures before any work starts.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Sep 6, 2016)

What u mean take pic's before and after work


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 3, 2018)

So havnt had any issues with the chipper since last post, til this summer. starter went out on me and I got it replaced and worked good for a month. and yesterday I was chipping and shut it off and went to start back up and the starter wouldn't stop turning and went for like a whole minute straight before I could take battery terminal off to stop the power. The key ignition was basically useless turning off and on didnt do anything so I quickly disconnected battery. Any thoughts or places to start here on a cause for this I'm just confused as to why it worked fine for so long then boom shitcanned like this???? Any help is greatly appreciated...


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## JeffGu (Jul 4, 2018)

Begin with the starter relay. The ignition switch itself can't handle the current of a starter motor, so there will always be a relay that actuates the starter motor. It can be included on the starter, but that's not common. The contacts in the relay are usually silver-plated copper, or plain copper. If the starter current is high, and the motor is turned for an excessively long time, it can literally weld the relay contacts together. This will give you the problem you're having, and is the most likely culprit.

Some starter motors have a solenoid that engages the pinion gear with the flywheel gear, and has a set of internal contacts that serve the function of a starter relay. This is a more expensive repair. If the wires from the ignition switch go straight to some terminals on the starter motor, and not to a relay, then this is the type that you have. The wires will usually be 10 ga. because the solenoid coil is fairly high current compared to a relay.

If the relay is good, the next most likely suspect would be the ignition switch itself.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 4, 2018)

Well I do know I have the starter solenoid between ignition switch and starter motor... but my concern here is that I have replaced the starter motor, ignition switch(twice now), and starter solenoid (3 times) due to thought of it being bad which each time things were fine for a while then shitcanned all of sudden. Are the universal ignition switches and starter solenoids just China cheap or do I have a wire crossed somewhere causing issues??? I been debating wiring the chipper like my tractor ignition is rigged , (toggle switch for key on position, then push button switch for starter motor power supply) would this be a better set up then the china universal ignition switch??


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## blades (Jul 4, 2018)

Get a heavy duty relay for the starter ( $50 apx) those $13 ones don't last. Contacts either pit to where they are useless or weld themselves together. Pitting is the start then the current draw goes way up and fries wires and contacts- typical problem with snow removal equipment. Starters / hydraulic pump motors and winches all share the a High current draw need relay contacts that can handle some 200+ amps. if any of your wiring is becoming corroded replace it also clean and grease ( dialectic) all connections pay particular attention to the ground wires. Power leads to starter should be 4ga or better stranded - solder connectors on cable ends - Those crimp on ones always cause problems down the road, the most common problem i see is from those causing the terminals to be burned off due to the poor connection- hence high current draw.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 4, 2018)

Anyone have this same model with issues like this that have found a way to get the kinks out? I don't like that it's been working for a while then out of nowhere boom nothing, or worse case like this time constant power to starter. I think I'm gonna rig the push button/toggle up and see how that works instead of buying another new china ignition switch.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 4, 2018)

So your saying its more likely to be the solenoid that's the issue? It seemed to be the key but I guess if it welds up in there the key turning could have been the initial spark for the weld up(causing the constant power to starter and the key not doing anything.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 4, 2018)

Do you have a part number for a heavy duty starter relay/solenoid cuz you are spot on on the 13 dollar ones which I've been replacing Haha.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 4, 2018)

So I did some research I believe the relay/solenoid I have and been purchasing is the 12v 750/80a rated one and the other one that I found is 12v 600/200a which I'm guessing is the one I should get to cure my issue??? Let me know if these specs are ok. Thanks mike


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## blades (Jul 4, 2018)

Yes on the second listed relay. I am at my shop trying to get some customer jobs done. If you follow the protocols I laid out you should be ok. The ignition switch is only sending power to the relay coil. 12v at less than amp in most cases. Some of the relays ground through their casing so make sure that the mounting area is free of rust and again grease to keep corrosion away.


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## blades (Jul 4, 2018)

i just looked to see if i had a relay around it is made by Trombetta # 114-1211-020-02 12v/ cont. it is a bout 2.5" in dia. and weighs about 3 pounds specked for a minimum #6 cable for the main power lines 200 amp cont/ 600 amp in rush. I seldom have to replace these


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 4, 2018)

Ok so the (continuous 200a) is better then (200a intermittently)right? Cause I found both type online obviously the continuous is more expensive but if that's gonna last without problems then I'll fork out 80bucks cause thats what I found the trombetta for online....


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## blades (Jul 5, 2018)

Might want to dig around some more on that price.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 5, 2018)

Well I found a lil cheaper 65bucks with shipping other one is 87 bucks free shipping and that's the trombetta brand so if you know a spot that's cheaper please do tell..... thanks mike


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## blades (Jul 5, 2018)

considering that every thing has risen in price over the past few years that sounds ok. Make sure all the safety switches are working properly as well.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 5, 2018)

Ok gonna order it so I can get this thing going for good Haha I hate working on minor electrical stuff like this, it's the most frustrating part of mechanical issues. And the safety switches your talking about, do you mean just make sure the ignition switch is operating correctly or ????


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## blades (Jul 5, 2018)

In theory if not disabled there should be a couple on access panels and perhaps on the feed- depends on model and age. Not the ignition switch but tied into that circuit & like fuel pump as well. if one of those is opened or closed ( depending on use ) no start, or if running and one gets tripped, will just die. Thiink of the seat switch on a lawn tractor.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 5, 2018)

Hmmm well I'm pretty sure my model is a 1984 and it has mechanical fuel pump and I'm not aware of any switches other then ignition switch, only electrical stuff I have is battery, alternator, ignition coil, dizzy, ignition switch, starter relay, starter motor, gauges, and I think a voltage regulator. And I just walked around it looking while listing these lol and if you have more electrical then this besides maybe lights hooked up you got a electrical nightmare I hate newer vehicles because of all the electrical crap. they claim all this stuff gets you a whopping 5mpg more out of your fuel consumption and in the long run causes grief and aggravation and extra cash that isn't really needed so is that whopping 5mpg extra worth it in the end..... in my opinion no, I'd rather support the middle easts' oil refineries lol that's all they got ..... we just need to work on renewable fuel to bring fuel cost down, not how to make it go longer with this sensor for that sensor and so on, or maybe even get back to hydrogen fuel cells so we can run our **** on water and worse come to worse make the areas with high populations just more humid lol jk nah im not sure how hydrogen exhausts' into air but I assume it's just used and exhausted as humidity with minor pollutants heck idk sounds good tho....


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## blades (Jul 5, 2018)

I like old school stuff myself- but eventually time takes its toll and parts sources dry up. I have a shop full of old machine tools that I manage to keep running ( one way or another) but it is getting a lot harder. 
I am guessing this is a gas eng?


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 6, 2018)

Yup ford 300 inline 6 and I know the parts issue I had to get a new PTO assembly for mine cause previous owner roached the clutch beyond easy repair and took a while but glad to have this site cause a fellow on here have me the info to a place I believe Foley engines and they took me thru a website while on the phone and showed exact pic of the parts I needed and had me up and going again but it did cost like 900 bucks for the parts kinda rough but that was 3 years ago so the wallet pain is gone now but I have mulched my whole yard and loaded our garden with mulch from this puppy so it was totally worth every penny and not to mention I got it for a steal because of the issues it had of coarse lol but I wish I had some fabricating tools to make parts instead of forking out 900 bucks


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## blades (Jul 6, 2018)

fabing tools, double edged sword- Lots of new Friends


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## no tree to big (Jul 6, 2018)

I have a 1986 morbark 200 with the 2.3 ford 4 cyl I had the starter get stuck on during use. It started properly but then the solenoid failed at some point during chipping so i couldnt hear the starter. This caused the starter to try to engage the flywheel at 2500 rpm for God knows how long so it melted the battery cable, solenoid, and starter. It ate the starter gear completly which wasn't a big issue since the starter melted anyway put the big pain was that it ate the ring gear on the flywheel so off came the clutch and flywheel so yes in my case an extra 50 bucks would have saved me several hours of repair and money for parts luckily I could atleast warranty the starter to AutoZone

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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 7, 2018)

Ouch, that sounds terrible. I didn't even think about fly wheel, hopefully mine is ok but luckily for me it happened when trying to start rather then middle of use cuz I can totally see why u didn't here it chippers are loud Haha that's what is ironic about the " whisper" chipper name cuz she definatly dont whisper.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 7, 2018)

so does the description match the specs needed for my application? And I figured I'd post pic of price and site I found it on so other peeps can fix there probs with the right solution and not the cheap one that could result in more expensive repairs as "no tree to big" unfortunately had.... and especially if the part only cost 60 bucks vs. a new flywheel which cost and that's not even mentioning the labor involved Haha so 60bucks vs God knows what if available + lots of labor I think 60 bucks is worth it and now you all have the means to order yourself the right part without the headache of internet searching it your self because I did the leg work on that with some excellent help from "blades" throwing me a part number.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 11, 2018)

Ok so I just got my mack daddy, made in the USA, starter relay/solenoid in the mail. Seems way sturdier then the cheapos I was buying that were made in china. Now how to wire it up it doesn't have any terminals labeled so which wires do I put where? Obviously the power wire from battery and power wire to starter go to big terminals but which way and same with small terminals which way do wires go or do I just hook them up in same positions as old solenoid just in the places on new one ?


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## no tree to big (Jul 11, 2018)

Use Google it's your friend






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## blades (Jul 11, 2018)

big terminals as you surmised are for battery juice to starter. = bat. ter to one then other to + terminal of starter which one is which doesn't matter as /or shouldn't as the contacts are independent of the relay coil. Relay coil terminals - need to check to see if one is grounded to the mounting tabs of the relay assembly ( some are /some are not) so if one shows continuity from the terminal to the relay frame/ mount that is the neg terminal that makes the other the connection to ignition switch. If niether are grounded to relay frame then it should not mater as you are only enerrgizing the coil to pull the main contacts together works in either direction current flow wise on a DC relay coil. if there is only one small terminal then chances are that it is grounded internall to the mounting frame of the relay (Not common any more as on cars most of your operating circuits are computer controlled and as such operate on an independant grounding net work -not to frame ( but that another discussion). hope this helps


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## blades (Jul 11, 2018)

are the terminals marked as in the above diagram on the relay. If not just orientate relay assm. to match above and go from there.


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## no tree to big (Jul 11, 2018)

Btw That is the diagram from the install directions from the part number you posted

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## blades (Jul 11, 2018)

heck who reads instructions been at this stuff too long. picture vs words


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 11, 2018)

Yeah your diagram looks just like my cheapo wire diagram so i guess everything is in same locations just on a different model relay... figure it was something like that just wanna be sure I dont hook it up backwards


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## ropensaddle (Jul 14, 2018)

Diy mechanic mike said:


> Ouch, that sounds terrible. I didn't even think about fly wheel, hopefully mine is ok but luckily for me it happened when trying to start rather then middle of use cuz I can totally see why u didn't here it chippers are loud Haha that's what is ironic about the " whisper" chipper name cuz she definatly dont whisper.


She's just a whisper after 30 years mate trust me  But you think those are bad hop in a 90 hp tractor with a brown tree cutter buzzin or a kershaw lol.


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## ropensaddle (Jul 14, 2018)

no tree to big said:


> I have a 1986 morbark 200 with the 2.3 ford 4 cyl I had the starter get stuck on during use. It started properly but then the solenoid failed at some point during chipping so i couldnt hear the starter. This caused the starter to try to engage the flywheel at 2500 rpm for God knows how long so it melted the battery cable, solenoid, and starter. It ate the starter gear completly which wasn't a big issue since the starter melted anyway put the big pain was that it ate the ring gear on the flywheel so off came the clutch and flywheel so yes in my case an extra 50 bucks would have saved me several hours of repair and money for parts luckily I could atleast warranty the starter to AutoZone
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


That blows I have got in the practice of flipping my starter ring any time i have a tranny off saved me frustration on a few occasions! I used my weed torch last one i flipped cause i was out of oxy lol.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 14, 2018)

So I got new relay wired up and charged my battery up and reconnected positive to battery and when I went to turn the key it did the shutter thing as if battery was dead and it was fully charged. I continued to turn key off and back to try to start and didn't even do the shutter after that first time so I used some pliers and jumped the solenoid to see if that would work and of coarse it turned it. so then I went back to key and ignition was working now after jumping it initially but..... my engine will not start up now it turns over but doesn't fire, and fyi it was running fine before old relay welded up. So what could be my issue now? And one other thing when it cranks now it seems to have a different sound to it idk how to explain but you know when u have owned something so long your just used to the way it sounds.... well my spidey sense tells me there is something different about the sound maybe it just has a more powerful crank over with the new relay idk not sure any input would be great. it's just so hot out today, I can't just go poking around trying to find something in this heat but I can sacrifice my well being to check something out only thing is idk what to check on right now Haha maybe the heat is getting to me it tends to do a better job at that when your trying to fix something out in the open with zero shade lol


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## blades (Jul 14, 2018)

Bad main ground connection would be my first guess, next would be broken wire(s) inside insulation sleeve or badly corroded ones. note if you apply 12v to the small lead positive side the eng should crank . i forget gas or diesel?


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 14, 2018)

Gas, Ford 300 inline 6 and the ground and power cables are new just replaced them last year or year before and I put sodder on the tips that were exposed because my last ones had corrosion real bad.... but insulation sleeve? Is that the wiring harness? But I got it to crank over it just isnt wanting to fire I killed the battery cranking it and like I said before it started fine for weeks before that p.o.s relay welded up so I'm boggled lol


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## no tree to big (Jul 14, 2018)

I feel your pain I just bought an old bobcat 310 and I'm trying to get it all sorted out dude talked a big game when I looked at it but everything he said he fixed is coming undone! Right now I'm trying to get the clutches adjusted. You adjust one thing it puts another out, I thought that part would be easy turn the nuts a little until it works ha! It seems virtually impossible to get proper forward and reverse while having a neutral position where both clutches on one side are released. 

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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 14, 2018)

Yeah I been sorting a lot of things out on a lot of things here lately Haha been finding deals on fixer uppers for a while and good deals are always hard work Haha been fixing things on a old bucket truck, dump truck, wood chipper, mf3165 tractor all had a lot of kinks when first got but most of them are out now but some things pop up at the worst times lol... but how does that lil bobcat dig? Would be a nice lil machine for tight places and driving in yards without making a deep mess... how much does it weigh and if you dont mind me asking how much did it cost you just wondering price range on those smaller bobcats?


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## no tree to big (Jul 15, 2018)

No idea how it digs virgin ground probably not too amazing due to its lack of weight, it weighs 1800 pounds its 35 or 36" wide with regular tires a bit wider with turf tires. I got it mainly for forking logs I haven't run this thing yet due to it being a bit of a project. Seems by the time I'm done I'll have taken it virtually completely apart and put it back together. There are a couple guys around that run machines that small they seem to do a lot with them. It'll tear up lawns if you turn although it's small it is still a skid steer. But the good thing is you can run it down a single run of plywood. 
I paid 3 grand for it it supposidly had an engine rebuild 2 or 3 years ago and it was painted(shitty job, paint comes off if you look at it wrong or touch it with a wrench which I'm doing a lot of....) it's got several new hoses, axle seals and all new bushings and bolts for the bucket and lift arm. 
It will need new set of the the aggressive tires soon or I can stick to my turf tires. So far I'm into it for like 40 bucks of parts and several hours of tedious sweaty covered in hydro oil tinkering out in the sun. It wouldn't have been so bad but I had to crack into the chaincase glad I did it tho I had a stripped bolt hole in the drive linkage and it would have fell out b4 too long. I probably have to buy another 40 bucks in parts and another day or two or three of messing with it...

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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 15, 2018)

Icic well that's awesome it can run down a single lane of ply wood that should make working in ppl yards a bit cheaper... but I totally feel you on the virtually taking it apart and putting back together, so far the dump truck, tractor, and chipper have been wrenched down pretty good and the tractor will be due for some more after summer just have to bushhog our farm rest of summer and can start in on the few things needing fixed... but hey good luck on the skidsteer project you'll eventually have that puppy up and going and be tearing threw projects with it Haha


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## blades (Jul 15, 2018)

Ok gassr no start but cranks- 1 no fuel, 2 no spark, You will have to forgive my mental laspes, electric or mechanical fuel pump, but check to make sure fuel filter isn't plugged first, electric pump comes on with that lovely ignition switch of yours again fuel filter. no spark - coil not energized ( been down that road a time or two) , distibutor? points or pick up coil ( sometimes called a reluctance coil) in dist. again system energized with ignition switch. distributor cap arcing internally. Those 300 sixs will out last most of the external doodads that make them run. last but not least voltage regulator in alternator if not an external model. Takes time to trace this stuff and you can't skip around.

used to have a NH ss 485 ( 5k weight class ) never could get the creep adjusted out of it when running above 2000 rpm. Now looking for one about 50/60 hp or a TLB, it was always either a bit shy or too much but got a lot of work done with it.


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 15, 2018)

Ok so it's got a mechanical fuel pump so shouldn't be having problems there but I will check to make sure it's getting fuel....or heck that there is fuel in tank I didn't even check that Haha. I dont have a fuel gauge. But could the relay welding up have made the ignition melt internally or something because it just seems like the relay welding up caused this other thing to happen so I'm wondering if it's something directly in line with the relay because like I said it was and has been running great since the last relay was replaced with this cheap one that welded up but I should have by past that issue with this made in u.s.a relay.


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## no tree to big (Jul 15, 2018)

Have you checked for spark? Tried hitting it with starting fluid? My Bobcat started fine for a couple weeks then it rained engine looked dry wouldn't pop on spray engine looked dry turned out the points were soaked under the little cover. Moisture is your enemy...

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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 15, 2018)

So its actually raining here now Haha was like 105 heat index with that normal so-il 75% relative humidity with full sun yesterday and today it's like 75, over cast, but raining here and there so the temps are great for working on something but it's raining once I try to start something lol havnt made it out to check gas yet... was finishing fixing my turn signal switch on my dump truck cuz was having lighting issues with that and the state porkers had to make it a big deal and pull me over for nothing and continue on to inspect my truck and notice my back brake light on driver wasn't working so he found something after the fact of pulling me over to write me a warning luckily it wasn't a ticket. But was more important to fix for me today Haha so I at least got one project checked off for the day lol


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## blades (Jul 16, 2018)

even more fun with the portable scales


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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 16, 2018)

Yeah I luckily didn't have anything in truck cuz he also told me I need to get a class c license for over 16k lbs so he gonna be watching for me loaded I'm sure now... but what I think is b.s is that we have these amish ppl all around us here that dont pay a lick of road taxes cuz I dont see plates on there tractors and I know they arnt registering them with the state and for got sake they arnt required to have a driver lisence for a tractor so what I wanna know is how can they pull a full size john deere excavator on a deck over tandam trailer behind there tractor down the freaking highway and not have to pay any sort of road taxes nor have a class c lisence!!! Is there a way to convert to amish I wouldnt have a problem rocking the denims and a huge beard if I could get outta all the road taxes and detear cops just cuz of the paper work involved with them lol


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## no tree to big (Jul 16, 2018)

"Farm use"

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## Diy mechanic mike (Jul 16, 2018)

Oh so just because he is amish he is farming that sounds like a stereotype Haha but heck he could have been hauling that to someone's house he is digging a pond for and getting paid and I bet the fuel in his tractor was red and that's federal but you dont ever see amish ppl pulled over... heck the same ones I see all the time had a dang horse pulling them in a golf cart down the highway the other day I came up behind it over a hill and was like WTF!!! Lol if it had been wet out he would have been smashed... sorry for the amish rant Haha but I get stuck behind them all the time and the highway I'm talking about is hilly and turny so not much area to pass safely. "Those English men dont have the patience to drive slowly" (amish quote) I'm sure they all say it as we pass them haha


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## SouthernTreesNewbie (Apr 21, 2021)

Just wanted to bump this thread and see if there was ever a solution.


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