# Roof for lean-to woodshed



## Motodeficient (Aug 17, 2011)

This was my first time building anything, but I was sick of dealing with tarps on my woodpile last winter, so I built this lean-to woodshed last weekend. I am happy with the way it came out considering my inexperience. Now I don't know what type of roofing to put on. I was going to install rolled roofing but I don't exactly know how, and I would also need to put a drip edge all the way around I think. I thought about shingles, but that seems like too much work. I also thought about metal roofing, but that would be pricey and I think since the plywood is 4x8, I would need the metal roofing to be about 9' long to overhang on each end so the plywood wouldn't get wet and rot. Looking back on it now, I think I should have just skipped the plywood and used metal roofing as the roof by itself. But the plywood is already nailed down.

I think I will leave the sides open during summer months and tarp it in during the winter.


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## avalancher (Aug 17, 2011)

Motodeficient said:


> This was my first time building anything, but I was sick of dealing with tarps on my woodpile last winter, so I built this lean-to woodshed last weekend. I am happy with the way it came out considering my inexperience. Now I don't know what type of roofing to put on. I was going to install rolled roofing but I don't exactly know how, and I would also need to put a drip edge all the way around I think. I thought about shingles, but that seems like too much work. I also thought about metal roofing, but that would be pricey and I think since the plywood is 4x8, I would need the metal roofing to be about 9' long to overhang on each end so the plywood wouldn't get wet and rot. Looking back on it now, I think I should have just skipped the plywood and used metal roofing as the roof by itself. But the plywood is already nailed down.
> 
> I think I will leave the sides open during summer months and tarp it in during the winter.



Looks like you did a good job, but do you mind if I give you a few pointers?

Rolled roofing will work fine, and its rather simple. first off, you need to lay a layer of moisture barrier like roofing felt over the plywood. Start by measuring the width of your building, add six inches for overlap over the edges, cut it, and roll it out over the roof over your roofing felt.Start at the bottom, and lay it from one side to the other, but *do not nail it down yet*.
Repeat the process for the next piece allowing six inches of overlap over the bottom piece, and again dont nail it down.
If its a nice warm day, let the roofing sit for a day to allow all the wrinkles to work their way out. The biggest failure to rolled roofing is when folks dont allow the roofing to expand with heat and get in a hurry to nail it down.After the roofing has warmed to the sun for half a day and expanded as much as it can, go back and smooth out all the wrinkles and nail it down around the edges, and seal the overlap over the seams with some roofing tar. There are many ways to nail rolled roofing including the "hidden nail" nailing, but it is a little more complicated than what I can instruct you with here.For your first time be content with the nails showing,or get a roofing book. To save some bucks, stop at lowes in the book section, pick up a book on roofing, and read through it right there in the store. The pictures and description should walk you through it easy enough.
Even if you nail steel roofing down, you need to lay out a layer of roofing felt, the sheet metal will sweat and eventually the water will damage your plywood roofing. In the future, if you are going to go the steel roofing route, plan ahead and skip the plywood.Its not necessary if you are going with steel roofing.
Can I add one other thing? You need to get some sway supports on the building.Even though the posts may be buried with concrete, you have more or less built yourself a nice sail with the roof, and winds will eventually sway the building back and forth and loosen the concrete in the ground, and many of your nailed joints will also fail. I have drawn you a few sway supports in your picture in case you have no idea what I am talking about, and its best to at least install them on each corner post, preferably on every post going each direction. The more supports you have, the sturdier the building.


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## Motodeficient (Aug 17, 2011)

Thank you for your post and all of the information. If I do go with the rolled roofing, how would you go about protecting the edges of the plywood from getting damaged from moisture? 

And yes I will add on some supports. I thought about that when I was building it but had forgot to add them.


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## beerman6 (Aug 17, 2011)

Much better than tarps,been there done that.

I'm not a carpenter (my wood shed has a heavy duty tarp held down with cinder blocks...) and my eyes arent all that great,but it looks like there are no rafters/trusses(again not a carpenter) where the plywood sheets meet?

if not then those sheets will end up curling up and or down.


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## Motodeficient (Aug 17, 2011)

Yeah my spacing on the rafters wasn't well thought out, I can add some more 2x4s in there still now I guess. I plan to put trim boards on the front to make it look a little more "finished" as well. I really wish I had thought of using JUST metal roofing for the roof before I had put the plywood on. It would fix most of my problems.


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## avalancher (Aug 17, 2011)

Motodeficient said:


> Thank you for your post and all of the information. If I do go with the rolled roofing, how would you go about protecting the edges of the plywood from getting damaged from moisture?
> 
> And yes I will add on some supports. I thought about that when I was building it but had forgot to add them.



Its a little late to change the structure so that you can add a gable board to cover the plywood edge on the ends, but in the front and back you can snap a chalk line along the top of your plywood flush with your rafter tails and cut it off, then nail a six inch wide fascia board over the edges of the plywood and rafter tails.For the gable ends, you probably are going to do one of two things. Either roll the roofing felt over the edges and staple it to the underside, or get some paint and paint the edges.The roofing felt method wlll probably look like carp, so I would either paint the whole structure or get some paint mixed to match the wood color and paint just the edges. If you want to save a few bucks, go to lowes or home depot and pick out a color that matches the plywood, then ask for the "sample" size.Its less than a pint, costs somewhere like two bucks,and should easy be enough to paint just the edges. 

I assume you used pressure treated lumber, so let the structure sit and dry out and paint it as late in the year as possible if you are going to paint the whole structure.If you paint pressure treated lumber too soon before it dries out, the paint will soon just fall off.

If you really want it to look real good, then you can have someone hold a cut to length 2x4 under the edges of the plywood on the sides and screw it down from the top, giving you a surface to nail a 6 inch wide gable board over the top of the 2x4 and the edges of the plywood.Install a drip edge over the edge of your gable boards to prevent them from rotting out.

Here is another tip. Next time before you pour your concrete, wrap some roofing felt around the base of the 4x4 right at ground level and staple it down.After your concrete sets up, pull the paper off leaving you with a nice clean post.Strictly a cosmetic thing, but it helps dress up the structure and keeps the concrete off.

You did good for building your first structure, some fine tuning and you will have a wood shed to be proud of.


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## Motodeficient (Aug 17, 2011)

Thanks again, I will work on it this weekend to try and finish it up. 

I actually didn't use pressure-treated lumber, but I plan to paint it to help protect the wood. Hopefully that was not a mistake. :msp_sad:

The posts are rough cut hemlock in cement so I hope they will be fairly weather resistant.


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## Guido Salvage (Aug 17, 2011)

Congratulations on your new shed. As with anything, there is a learning curve involved. However, I am a bit concerned that your shed may be under built for the snow conditions that you may face in Maine. Just a few thoughts on how I would have done it...

* Treated 6" x 6" posts for strength and durability.
* 2x8's for joists on the front and back for strength. I would have either notched the posts or bolted the joists to them. I am concerned that you only used 2x4's and they appear to be nailed to the posts and afraid a good snow load may bring them down.
* Placed the rafters on 16" centers, especially if using only 2x4's. Doing that allows you to always have a nailing surface for the plywood.
* It appears that you have run the plywood sheets from front to back. They should run from side to side and the seams for each sheet should break in the middle of the sheets immediately above and below it. Also use clips between the rows to help prevent sagging.
* As suggested, the whole shed needs to be braced to keep it stable. With such a low pitched roof the snow will not readily slide off and the structure needs to be designed to hold the weight.
* If using metal roofing, skip the plywood and use purlins across the rafters to attach the roof sections to. I would use screws and be sure they have the rubber gaskets.

Good luck with it and I hope it gives you years of service.



Motodeficient said:


>


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## Motodeficient (Aug 17, 2011)

Sorry, what is a purloin? Did a google search and I didn't get a result that was in this context.

I was trying to built it without too much cost, thus the 2x4s. I know, if it falls down, it was wasted money anyway. I am planning to use the roof rake to get the snow off after each storm.

I wish I was able to get the plywood off, I could use it for another project, but I don't think I will be able to get it off without destroying it since I nailed it on.


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## Guido Salvage (Aug 17, 2011)

Motodeficient said:


> Sorry, what is a purloin? Did a google search and I didn't get a result that was in this context.
> 
> I was trying to built it without too much cost, thus the 2x4s. I know, if it falls down, it was wasted money anyway. I am planning to use the roof rake to get the snow off after each storm.
> 
> I wish I was able to get the plywood off, I could use it for another project, but I don't think I will be able to get it off without destroying it since I nailed it on.



Sorry, a fat fingered mistake and since "purloin" is a word it did not show the usage to be incorrect. The word you need to research is "purlin" and it is nothing more than a nailing stringer that is installed across the roof rafters that the roof attaches to. Here is an image I found:






Since the structure is built, I would not try to disassemble it but rather strengthen it. If you think the 2x4 joists are not adequate, you could add 2x6's or 2x8's on the other side of the posts for support or even add additional posts. I was not trying to downplay your efforts, everyone has their own thoughts on how it should be done. Mo brother and I built one for my mother about 30 years ago and it is still going strong.


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## GeeVee (Aug 17, 2011)

The 2x4s are okay, you're not spanning that far. 

Plywood to plywood joints have to have a 2x under it, just like the ends, no unsupported plywood ends. 

Go with the Metal, and screw it down with the screws that have a ryubber gasket. 

SHINGLES is not that much nailing to do, but I would still use the Metal. Use what you Yankees call Ice and Water Shield as the underlayment. It is a rubber membrane that has a VERY sticky adhesive..... Its almost a shame to put screws or nails through it, but you gotta have a fianl surface. I recommmend the Metal, mostly becasue its slick and more permanent than shingles. 

The Corbels, the diagonal bracing, needs to go in al four directions. 

The ends of your building roof needed "Fly Rafters", gives you a place to hold the drip edges, and supports the plywood. Bare unsupported plywood ends are going to cost you all the time and effort not to mention materials, because it is a failure sure to happen. 

As someone else mentioned, the 
beam front and back shold have been notched or sat on top, not "facenailed" weight will pull those nails out in hours. At a minimum, you need to put a 2x under it and through bolt it to the post, then through bolt the "beam" too. 

You could easily de-nail the plywood, go with purlins and metal. It won't be the prettiest plywood.... Use a 2x and just poke the bottom of the plywood from the ground, aiming to "lift" the nailhead enough to jump up there and pull it...


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## gink595 (Aug 17, 2011)

I didn't read anyone's replies so.... Since you have the plywood sheathing already in place get some drip edge trim and some 15# felt paper and shingle it. Shingles are easy to lay down if you haven't ever done so it isn't rocket science by any means and you should be able to figure it out fairly quick. The shed looks good!


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## jerrycmorrow (Aug 17, 2011)

some good advice here. i do agree with geevee though. since you want metal roofing you will never be satisfied with the plywood with shingles or sheets. you still got plenty of working room underneath so get out there and knock the plywood off. that is unless you nailed at 3" centers; but still. so your plywood will have holes in it? big deal, that's why they make wood filler, sheathing, etc. nowadays, if it don't meet my eye test i don't hestitate to redo. overall, pretty good effort.


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## lon (Aug 17, 2011)

A great example why I like this site. I am a terrible carpenter and this has been a learning experience for me too. Thank you to everyone who took the time to respond in such an informative way. By the way, I'm a retired teacher of thirty-five years and I think each of you missed your calling to be a teacher!


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## tjbier (Aug 17, 2011)

I agree with Gink, grab 6-7 pieces of drip edge, one roll 15# felt and if you used 4 sheets of ply wood you will need 4 bundles of shingles. Grab a 5lb box of roofing/siding nails and you'll have it done in 2 hrs! 
And it will last ya a while !
good job!:msp_thumbsup:


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## upsnake (Aug 17, 2011)

If you don't mind me asking how much was materials?


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## Workboot (Aug 17, 2011)

For a guy with no experience you did a great job! There is some great advice in the previous replies but one thing I would do is add more 2x4 purlins on the walls 2' on center then attach chain link fence to the inside of the walls and back giving yourself a great way to stack the wood to. As long as you aren't chucking the wood at it, it will last forever and allow for good air movement.


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## Workboot (Aug 17, 2011)

Forgot to mention, keep your eyes peeled on craigslist for the fence, you can find it for free sometimes also for plastic pallets, you may have to pay for those but they make the best wood shed floor ever. I got lucky and got about 40 for free at a local beer distributor you might just ask around and find some cheap or free. You can cut them to fit around your posts with your chainsaw.


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## bcorradi (Aug 18, 2011)

Here is the woodshed I have that is fairly similar to yours. I would have potentially built it a bit differently if I started from scratch, but I got the walls and roof from my brother already built like pictured. As you can see there is not much for roof support, but it made it through last winter fine. 
View attachment 194850

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## bcorradi (Aug 18, 2011)

Here is a couple of recent pics from this year.
View attachment 194854

View attachment 194855


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## rob206 (Aug 18, 2011)

I'm no carpenter either, and you've already been given some good advice, but here is my two cents. I would leave it as is for this winter. Next summer, ditch the plywood & 2x4 rafters. Install some 2x8's or 10's, add purlins and go with metal roofing. You'll get the correct screws with the rubber gaskets when you buy the metal and installation is fairly basic.


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## David (saltas) (Aug 18, 2011)

the cross bracing can go on the back.
It can go from the top of one corner post to the bottom of the center post and back up to the top of the other corner post.
this will be stronger than the two little blue lines drawn on your photo by avalancher


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## jerrycmorrow (Aug 18, 2011)

saltas said:


> the cross bracing can go on the back.
> It can go from the top of one corner post to the bottom of the center post and back up to the top of the other corner post.
> this will be stronger than the two little blue lines drawn on your photo by avalancher


 
the back bracing as described will work really well for the back and will even lend a little support to the front. BUT, you still need bi-directional bracing for EACH corner. doesn't have to be obtrusive but still needs to be there.


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## merrellroofing (Aug 20, 2011)

Roofing felt is not necessary. Felt is a vapor barrier, not a moisture barrier. No heat-not necessary. Felt will only help if the shingles fail.
Grab some drip edge and shingles and beat your thumbs up.


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## GeeVee (Aug 20, 2011)

Before "shilngling", add the 2x to the sheathing joints and support them, hang the fly rafter, or cut the plywood back to the nearest 2x. Do not leave the joints unsupported or the end's bare, Shingling it now will look pretty ghetto, and work about half as well as the ghetto. 

2x8? or bigger? The span is well within the capability of 2x4, when you calculate just how many rafters he is going to have. Like about a foot on center each. If he had done everything well informed and experienced and went with 2' foot centers, yeah, maybe 2x6 or 2x8, but not when you look at the oc spacing he has, the span, the dead load and live load. It is NOT living space. 

(but I'll agree, 2x 6 or 8 is about 15% more money)


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## Motodeficient (Sep 19, 2011)

Thanks for all of your replies and advice on this. I finally got around to working on this again this weekend. Its not perfect, but its much better, stronger, and looks nicer than it did. 

I am not quite done yet, I am either going to do as someone mentioned here and put chain link fence around the inside, or add some more 2x4s on the outside to give the stacked wood something to lean against. 
Here is the result:

before:







After:


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## mdotis (Sep 19, 2011)

*Much better*

Wow great imporvements. Now you just need to fill it up:msp_thumbup:


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## Kevin in Ohio (Sep 19, 2011)

Looks good to me. I prefer metal roof over shingles as metal will last a lifetime. I went a step further and completely enclosed mine. Block on 3 sides so stacking is dead simple and no termite issues. Door end is stick built in sections and screwed together in case boiler switch is needed. Cathedral trusses used so I can lift the boiler out with a lift arm. Building is 20X20 so I can get a whole seasons wood supply in there. My wood is all stored in other barns and is dry so no ventilation is needed for seasoning.

I agree with others, you did a great job!


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## jerrycmorrow (Sep 19, 2011)

looking much stronger. like said, now fill 'er up. need to do it now so you'll have at least a semblance of cured wood to burn. will still be green when you need it but every day counts. gitrdone


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## Motodeficient (Sep 19, 2011)

jerrycmorrow said:


> looking much stronger. like said, now fill 'er up. need to do it now so you'll have at least a semblance of cured wood to burn. will still be green when you need it but every day counts. gitrdone


 
The wood I put in here probably won't be burned until 2013. I have 2 years worth of wood stacked up elsewhere on my property. Next year I will probably add 8' to each side to make it 32' long total. Then I will have all of my wood in one place...


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## paintcheck (Sep 4, 2013)

I was working on building mine for the winter as I'm also sick of using a tarp and ran across this thread. I went the shingle route mostly because the wife is happy with the look vs steel. Anyhow, I'm stumped at how I should do my drip edge at the top. Should I lay it over my shingles and tar the nails or slide it under the shingles? I still have one last layer of shingle to go on, so if I put it under the shingle I can make sure the shingle goes well past the drip edge. any thoughts on what do do? Also, I spaced my rafters 24" on center. I read somewhere that should be ok. I cut a birdsmouth on all the rafters and used the metal rafter brackets. Should I do more with the rafters? I'll add some cross bracing on corners.

Picture of where I'm at with it.
View attachment 313155

View attachment 313156


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## dustytools (Sep 4, 2013)

avalancher said:


> Looks like you did a good job, but do you mind if I give you a few pointers?
> 
> Rolled roofing will work fine, and its rather simple. first off, you need to lay a layer of moisture barrier like roofing felt over the plywood. Start by measuring the width of your building, add six inches for overlap over the edges, cut it, and roll it out over the roof over your roofing felt.Start at the bottom, and lay it from one side to the other, but *do not nail it down yet*.
> Repeat the process for the next piece allowing six inches of overlap over the bottom piece, and again dont nail it down.
> ...



The sway supports will also help to shorten the span of your bearing beam.


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## Johnny Yooper (Sep 4, 2013)

lots of good suggestions; I'll touch on something I didn't see mentioned, and that applies here for those hemlock posts (which are great in this application) or any posts for that matter: whether setting them directly in the ground or setting them in concrete filled holes, it won't be too many years before they will rot at grade level. What I've done for posts that support cabins, wood sheds, fences, etc. is to put a barrier around the post that extends from below grade and a foot or so above grade. What I commonly do is first apply a generous coating of roofing tar to the entire post surfaces that will be below grade on up to a foot or so above grade and then for some overkill, I wrap that same area with aluminum flashing and nail the end with some tarpaper nails and then tar that joint. Might want to do something a little more dressy if in your back yard, but I'm out in the country and most of my projects don't end up in the parade of homes anyway. You could pour those concrete sonna tubes commonly used for house decks and put a "chair" on top to secure the post, but for a freestanding woodshed, going with direct burial should give a much stronger support.


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## paintcheck (Sep 6, 2013)

paintcheck said:


> Anyhow, I'm stumped at how I should do my drip edge at the top.




I put the drip edge under the last row, tarred the heck out of the top edge and last row of nails.


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