# Husqvarna 395xp chain tensioner screw



## Cobron (Oct 8, 2015)

G'day all from Queensland Australia, first time on this site and it's a ripper. I have been milling mostly hardwood with a husqvarna 395xp and a 36 inch bar with .404 two skip chain and a Alaskan mill for a few years now, recently I decided to put a 44 inch bar with 5 skip .404 chain on I added a external oiler to aid in lubrication, once I got cutting I hadn't gone 200 mm into the log when the chain tensioner screw snapped and the chain went slack, I changed over to my other 395xp with the same result, is there a upgraded screw tensioner one can purchase?or am I doing something wrong,I realize that a 44 inch bar is a bit large for the saw according manufactures specs however I don't do it all the time, any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!


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## mdavlee (Oct 8, 2015)

Bar nuts not right enough can cause a little movement and they'll pop. Might have to tighten them a bit more than you think.


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## Cobron (Oct 8, 2015)

Thanks for your response, I did make sure the second time around that I really tightened then but the same thing happened


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## mdavlee (Oct 8, 2015)

Was the saw bouncing some in the cut?


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## Cobron (Oct 8, 2015)

Yeah she was vibrating a bit.... I read somewhere earlier I should tension the chain then lock the nuts in position and release the tension on the screw tensioner.... I haven't tried that


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## mdavlee (Oct 8, 2015)

I never have backed them off. I've not broken any either.


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## Cobron (Oct 8, 2015)

Thanks for your responses mate, just replaced the screws will have another go tomorrow


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## mdavlee (Oct 8, 2015)

I'm interested in your results. I've milled with 394/5 with 36" bars and never a problem from the oilers.


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## kimosawboy (Oct 8, 2015)

I found this with a bit of searching...google can be your friend

Good luck
G Vavra



Not sure what size bar bolts are on the 395XP, But Bar bolts
are typically 5/16 – 18 tpi, assuming SAE grade 5, the bolts should hold a
clamping force of 3300 plus Lbs, and a load force of 4400 plus lbs on the bolt
nuts when the bar nuts are tightened to about 17 ft-lbs or 204 in-lbs. However the tensioning screw is typically a #
10 – 24 tpi, and is being used in the load force position, Not clamping when
tensioning the bar chain. The torque value of a #10 carbon steel , grade 5 machine
screw is about 25 in-lbs, with a load force of 1000 plus lbs, and is being used much like a “screw
Jack” to tension the chain onto the bar. Never mind offset tensioning screws
that use a small pinion gear, which would require a few more calculations. Oh,
also metric grade bolts are fairly close to load sizes if comparing a comparible
size like a M6 metric to a #10 standard screw, since it’s the dimensions of the
screw and grade that are important.

So what does all this
mean,_ the tensioning screw should be used just to tension the chain onto the
bar, and Not to hold the load_ that is exerted onto the bar and chain by some
external force like a Granberg small log mill. (Also I’m not sure how much
force can be exerted onto the bar and chain but obviously If its bending or
breaking the tensioning screw its more than a 1000 lbs plus.)

So here is what I would suggest or try: Use the tensioning
screw to tension the chain onto the bar, Next use the Bar nuts to clamp the bar
in place using the correct torque values on the bar nuts.

I also suspect that the bar nuts maybe loosening up a bit to
allow the bar clamping to be reduced and slip, so I would try a few drops of “blue”
mild strength “Loctite” for threads or equivalent thread lock. Do Not use Extra
strength thread compounds because you do want to take the bar nuts off in the
future.

Finally, after everything is tight, I would then take a turn
or turn and a half off of the tensioning screw (CCW), because If the bar Nuts
are clamping properly you should not get any movement, and this will prevent
the force of the Granberg from being exerted onto the tensioning screw.


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## Cobron (Oct 8, 2015)

Excellent thank you and I'll let you know... I too have never had a problem with 36 inch bars... The only difference being this is happening on a 44 inch bar which is a GB bar however it is stock standard to fit huskies.


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## Cobron (Oct 9, 2015)

Finally it worked out... Thanks for all the advice, initially I tensioned the chain bolted everything down released the tension screw got cutting and... Bang the chain went slack... I stopped and took off the chain brake cover and had a closer look at the internal of the cover I noticed a bit of a raised surface on it I took my battery grinder with a sanding disc and gave it a light sand I did the same to the bar spacer which was also slightly protruding from the bar slot I reassembled everything tensioned the chain tightened the bolts and could see immediately that it had clamped the bar much better..... After 7 slabs all about 900mm wide never had another problem


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## BobL (Oct 9, 2015)

Good to hear you found the problem.

In your photo, I see you are milling with the mill rails direct onto the log and the mill is pushing a small pile of sawdust ahead of itself.
If you use the log rails every time you will have a lot less friction. My mill rails on my mills a lined with HDPE so they have even less friction



I also see you are milling with your arms wide apart.
I'd recommend setting up a remote throttle and adding a higher up handle.
As well as saving shoulders and arms it gets your head up away from the exhaust fumes and sawdust.

Sorry if I show this a zillion times but this is a far better position to be milling.
Arms just steer and activate throttle, forward pressure is done with my hip/thigh - note use of log rails to reduce friction.


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## flashhole (Oct 9, 2015)

Cobron - what kind of wood are you milling? The color of that sawdust doesn't look like it should be coming from that log. Glad you solved your problem.


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## Cobron (Oct 9, 2015)

Oh nice one... I'll give that a try... Yeah in all honestly she's a hard push through a big dry blue gum


flashhole said:


> Cobron - what kind of wood are you milling? The color of that sawdust doesn't look like it should be coming from that log. Glad you solved your problem.


Hi mate... It's bluegum...The sawdust is red in colour... The log itself has been sitting in the sun for possibly 5 years


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## flashhole (Oct 9, 2015)

Very nice. I hope to do some milling in the next week or two on a large ash that the beetles killed. I did a few last year that slabbed out nicely. Hopefully this one will work out well too. My rig is a 394XP with a 32" Alaskan.


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## Cobron (Oct 9, 2015)

flashhole said:


> Very nice. I hope to do some milling in the next week or two on a large ash that the beetles killed. I did a few last year that slabbed out nicely. Hopefully this one will work out well too. My rig is a 394XP with a 32" Alaskan.


Oh thanks mate.....Yeah I love my 395xp's it went through that hardwood pretty good.... First time I've used a 44 inch bar on her too... Is Ash a softwood tree?


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## flashhole (Oct 10, 2015)

Ash is considered a hardwood. It's main notoriety is they use it to make baseball bats. Ash is very plentiful here in NY and comprises most of my firewood pile. I rank it 3rd in burn qualities behind hard maple (my favorite) and shag bark hickory. Not a lot of Oak where I live so I didn't include it in the ranking. My 3/8" pitch 36" bar and milling chain is a good fit to my 32" Alaskan. I have also found the shallower 10 degree cutter angle makes a smoother cut. Another thing I learned is having the log on a slight down angle allowing gravity to help move the saw through the wood is way easier on the back.


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## flashhole (Oct 10, 2015)

I set up like this to mill. Two cinder blocks in the back and one in the front for the downhill angle. 





I made a fixture to trim the edges, it bolts to a 16" bar that I use with my Stihl 460.


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## flashhole (Oct 10, 2015)

This is the fixture I use to trim the edges. Easy to make but I burned up two drill bits drilling holes through the bar.


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## flashhole (Oct 10, 2015)

This is the blow-down I milled. What a chore cutting it to the long lengths I wanted and getting them up out of the ravine.


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## Boon (Oct 10, 2015)

Cobron said:


> Finally it worked out... Thanks for all the advice, initially I tensioned the chain bolted everything down released the tension screw got cutting and... Bang the chain went slack... I stopped and took off the chain brake cover and had a closer look at the internal of the cover I noticed a bit of a raised surface on it I took my battery grinder with a sanding disc and gave it a light sand I did the same to the bar spacer which was also slightly protruding from the bar slot I reassembled everything tensioned the chain tightened the bolts and could see immediately that it had clamped the bar much better..... After 7 slabs all about 900mm wide never had another problem



How do you go wearing the mask all the time? I used to do the same till it dawned on me one day after milling in the breeze direction that I can create my own breeze. Now I only use the mask in confined spaces or if the breeze is blowing towards me. Also do this with the Alaskan


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## Cobron (Oct 10, 2015)

Boon said:


> How do you go wearing the mask all the time? I used to do the same till it dawned on me one day after milling in the breeze direction that I can create my own breeze. Now I only use the mask in confined spaces or if the breeze is blowing towards me. Also do this with the AlaskanView attachment 452847


Yeah I'm used to it now mate.... Between the hardwoods fine powdery dust and the fumes comin off the saw I reckon any protection I can use is good for me, it also helps I have unlimited access to the fume type filters,also I do a lot of freediving.. I need my lungs


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## BobL (Oct 10, 2015)

Cobron, the other thing that makes a big difference to exhaust fume and saw dust exposure is a decent muffler mod. 
It was not deliberately design like this but my mod (http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/880-muffler-mod-question.88748/) blows the sawdust and fumes coming out of the saw well away from the operator.


Look how far it sprays the sawdust and even though the log is nearly completely milled how little sawdust is left alongside the long - this is very handy as it means the operator does not end up walking on an ever increasing layer of sawdust alongside the log.

I noticed the difference with the fumes when I was using my mates 3120. Saws that eject exhaust forwards means it bounces off the log and when milling the top half of the log the exhaust reflects off the log up into the operators face. Worse still are the saws that eject sawdust out of a RHS port which does the same thing for the entire log. After using the 3120 for half an hour or so I felt a bit nauseated and could feel an oily film on my chaps and clothes and by the end of the day I could easily see the oil and had a headache - Unfortunately I did not have my full face respirator with me otherwise I would have used it. With both the 076 and my muffler modded 880 I do not have these problems .

As far as vertical milling goes, one way to deal with the sawdust issue is to use a minimill setup that cuts with the top of the bar so the sawdust exits at the bottom of the log and not all over the operator.
The requires a setup that prevents the saw from jumping up out of the cut - its more complicated but far from impossible.
Below is my setup - note there is sawdust on top of the cut but that's because in this photo I was using the bottom of the bar.


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## Cobron (Oct 10, 2015)

BobL said:


> Cobron, the other thing that makes a big difference to exhaust fume and saw dust exposure is a decent muffler mod.
> It was not deliberately design like this but my mod (http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/880-muffler-mod-question.88748/) blows the sawdust and fumes coming out of the saw well away from the operator.
> View attachment 452874
> 
> ...


Oh nice thanks for info... I wouldn't mind trying the mod


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