# Steel King furnace



## Diesel nut (Nov 13, 2010)

I got this for free a few years ago and it's been sitting outside for that time. I am going to try to get it installed here soon. I need to repaint the front and back and the sheet metal sides with high temp paint. I was wondering if it would be worth lining the sides of the fire box with firebrick. My thoughts on holding the firebrick in place was to use some flat bar steel and drill some holes though the side of the firebox to hold the flat bar in place rather than welding it. Welding it would be better but impossible to get inside the box. I would use some pieces of small thick walled pipe to make spacers to hold the bar away from the side of the firebox to slide the firebrick in place. Not sure what size bolts to use. Maybe 3/8s? Is this even a good idea? Just wanted a few opinions on this since I'm kinda new to this. Thanks, Casey.


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## Diesel nut (Nov 13, 2010)

The dimensions of this furnace are 22"Wx33Lx46H. The firebox can handle 26" logs no problem.


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## pook (Nov 13, 2010)

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=37370&highlight=forced+draft&page=2 from Moddoo


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## Diesel nut (Nov 17, 2010)

Ok I've done quite a bit of reading on secondary air induction and it seems that cast iron pipe is best for running in the hot coals. What about heavy walled steel pipe or box tubing? I have easy access to that plus it's free. There's been a few guys that have used the black pipe but said it doesn't last anytime at all. So I thought maybe heavier steel pipe might work or am I wrong? Thanks for your thoughts in advance. Casey.


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## pook (Nov 17, 2010)

trick is to burn the load from the top down= keep the bottom of the pile cooled.........does it have a grate as is?


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## Diesel nut (Nov 17, 2010)

Yea its made out of 1" square solid bar steel.


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## Diesel nut (Nov 17, 2010)

Here's what I thought of using.


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## CrappieKeith (Nov 18, 2010)

That round rolled top caught my eye.
Since it was made in Stevens.,Wi. and our Jacks originated in Warren I'm thinking they look like cousins!


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## pook (Nov 18, 2010)

CrappieKeith said:


> That round rolled top caught my eye.
> Since it was made in Stevens.,Wi. and our Jacks originated in Warren I'm thinking they look like cousins!


whta a subtle line to maybe sell a furnace!= if ur cousin, why dont u comment such that ur cuz gets better?:rockn:


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## CrappieKeith (Nov 18, 2010)

pook said:


> whta a subtle line to maybe sell a furnace!= if ur cousin, why dont u comment such that ur cuz gets better?:rockn:



He may need parts...maybe I can help since that co. that made that unit is no longer around.Bricks,grates,draft blower...ect.

Hey Pook you can goyank somebody elsechain now...I'm growing tired of your antics.:bang::bang::bang::bang:


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## pook (Nov 18, 2010)

CrappieKeith said:


> He may need parts...maybe I can help since that co. that made that unit is no longer around.Bricks,grates,draft blower...ect.
> 
> Hey Pook you can goyank somebody elsechain now...I'm growing tired of your antics.:bang::bang::bang::bang:


u shudda stated such in the first place,eh? not that the POS is worth rebuilding to original specs other than to cover UL listing. ax me ifn i care! xcept for i see the ultimate burner possibility for the POS.......vvv


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## CrappieKeith (Nov 18, 2010)

...hold on Pook...I saw the round top and I said hey a round top...not ofeten you see that.


Then you attack me for responding to the OP and after that I thought about the parts ...now your saying I should have said that 1st...I am definitely putting you on ignor...:notrolls2::notrolls2::notrolls2::notrolls2::
Pook..if I don't respond to you ..you are on the ignor list...


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## pook (Nov 18, 2010)

CrappieKeith said:


> ...hold on Pook...I saw the round top and I said hey a round top...not ofeten you see that.
> 
> 
> Then you attack me for responding to the OP and after that I thought about the parts ...now your saying I should have said that 1st...I am definitely putting you on ignor...:notrolls2::notrolls2::notrolls2::notrolls2::
> Pook..if I don't respond to you ..you are on the ignor list...


dont care= its ur loss & still gonna repost MH &yukon similarity systems....having spoken with u, i aint gonna miss u cause ure a salesman more than a scientist,duh


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## Diesel nut (Nov 18, 2010)

I notice your losing some reps there spook. Gee i wonder why....:monkey: Any way yea I couldn't find any info on the company so I figured they must be out of business. This furnace looks like it is well made and fairly sophisticated for the time it was built. (1980) Thanks for responding Keith.


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## Diesel nut (Nov 18, 2010)

This thing has a pretty good size firebox so I hope it'll do the trick.


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## Diesel nut (Nov 23, 2010)

Well I'm almost finished with it. Got the fire brick installed....


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## Diesel nut (Nov 23, 2010)

Some more pics.....


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## Diesel nut (Nov 23, 2010)

*Secondary intake?*

The firebox measures 24"H x 15"W x 28"L. I should be able to do a long over night burn I hope!  Now I gotta figure out how I'm going to do my secondary burn setup. Was thinking of having the forced air draft inducer supply air to the secondary side along with the primary side or is that a bad idea? Need some help figuring this one out. Thanks, Casey.


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## CrappieKeith (Nov 23, 2010)

Give me a call when you get some time Casey.


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## pook (Nov 23, 2010)

http://www.**********/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/60405/

look @ this post, its there. I'd bring in the 2ndary air from front of stove & thru pipes on top of the grates leaving just enough grate area to burn off the coals. The pipes on grates [pulling colder air being preheated] will cool the coals & bottom of the load somewhat but its a good thing. My signature has a link to the "nature of fire" which explains my reasoning. I think u can make a better furnace than a Caddy which has no grates & a buildup of coals can be a hassle..........good lux


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## homemade (Nov 26, 2010)

I have a Steel king that my parents have used as an add on to the furnace for the past 26 years. Heats 1800 sqft pritty good. The "Draft blower" is a lil weak for only 500cfm on ours. I'll get some pics and so on tomorrow. I do have an original manual for mine. If you want a copy and i can scan and email it. just pm me


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## FlyingDutchman (Nov 26, 2010)

kick butt work on the firebrick!


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## pook (Nov 26, 2010)

& a fool with a tool is still a fool!


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## Diesel nut (Nov 27, 2010)

homemade said:


> I have a Steel king that my parents have used as an add on to the furnace for the past 26 years. Heats 1800 sqft pritty good. The "Draft blower" is a lil weak for only 500cfm on ours. I'll get some pics and so on tomorrow. I do have an original manual for mine. If you want a copy and i can scan and email it. just pm me


 Yea that would be great! I'd appreciate the info from the manual. I've put in a total of 43 fire bricks in this thing. Couldn't believe I had to use that many. I got this furnace for free from a neighbor who had a Central Boiler owb installed and said it use a lot more wood than this did.


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## pook (Nov 27, 2010)

Once upon a time SK built the furnace,wrote the manual which UL then read the manual & followed the manual to test the furnace as originally built. Now the furnace has been changed from original design which UL never tested so in the event of a mishap, the ins co. may opt out of coverage. Great to read the manual, better to watch & monitor the performance of the altered furnace....good lux


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## ultimate buzz (Nov 28, 2010)

*Steel King*

Steel King is still in business here in Wisconsin, but they primarily make storage racks and storage systems for larger companies. They have two manufacturing facilities, one in Stevens Point, and one in New London, Wi. 

You might want to contact them and see if manuals or parts are still available, or if they know of anyone that still makes parts for their product lines.It might be worth a try. www.steelking.com -ken


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## Diesel nut (Dec 1, 2010)

Well more progress was made....


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## Diesel nut (Dec 1, 2010)




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## Diesel nut (Dec 1, 2010)

This thing should have no trouble flowing enough air. It's probably a little over kill but oh well. The stainless steel tube is 2" diameter. Got about 30 ft of it for free from a neighbor that works at AE diary in Des Moines. I made an adjustable louver type cover to control air flow into the secondary tube. I made this thing so I could take it apart and reassemble in side the fire box in a minute. It's real easy to hook up. That way if I wanted to change something it wouldn't be so difficult to do. Farm boy engineering at it's finest.


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## Diesel nut (Dec 1, 2010)




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## Diesel nut (Dec 2, 2010)

Here's some action shots.....


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## Diesel nut (Dec 2, 2010)

I'm thinking I may not have enough secondary air cause I still get some smoke out of the chimney. It is sitting outside and only has 4ft of double wall stove pipe on it so maybe its not an accurate trial run, I don't know. I'm thinking I might change the main tube at the bottom of the grate and set it off the grate a few inches to get it in the coals more. It seems that the air is not being heated enough unless I have the fire going good. Maybe I need more preheating tube, I don't know. I'll have to do some brainstorming. If anyone on here has any more ideas that would be great.


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## pook (Dec 2, 2010)

cant see but i assume ure bringing air from outside the stove? dont forget u need to build up a bed of coals for the pipe on the grate to really get hot & then make sure the configuration doesnt result in air coming out of the intake tube instead of getting sucked in.
.Avoid adding holes pointing down,i think, i saw a stove with that design where a guy added a blocking piece because the downholes were notching the wood with the jets. Ideally, the area of the holes should match the area of the intake?

http://www.**********/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/60405/ this has info on homemade modifications


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## Diesel nut (Dec 6, 2010)

pook said:


> Once upon a time SK built the furnace,wrote the manual which UL then read the manual & followed the manual to test the furnace as originally built. Now the furnace has been changed from original design which UL never tested so in the event of a mishap, the ins co. may opt out of coverage. Great to read the manual, better to watch & monitor the performance of the altered furnace....good lux



Got the go ahead from my insurance agent to install this modified Steel King furnace so no worries on them opting out on coverage.


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## pook (Dec 6, 2010)

great for ins. got a glass on the door for pics taken?


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## Diesel nut (Dec 6, 2010)

Working on it.


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## pook (Dec 6, 2010)

http://www.onedayglass.com/ best prices on ceramic glass ithinx. hope u dont need an airwash for keeping the glass clean


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## Diesel nut (Dec 23, 2010)

I finally got this baby installed a few days ago and she's up and runnin. I can't get much if any secondary burn out of this thing. I changed the way the pipes run through the fire box and made two of them out of 1-1/4" cast pipe. Used the 2" stainless I had laying around for the burner tubes. They draw in air really good but don't light up much that I can tell. I'll get some pictures on here of what I got.


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## CrappieKeith (Dec 23, 2010)

It may be that the air your drawing in is too cold to start with.


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## laynes69 (Dec 23, 2010)

You don't have enough secondary air to burn up the smoke. That firebox is huge and it will require alot more tubes and air to make it burn cleanly. Especially when the wood heats up and starts to offgas. Here is a picture of my firebox before I installed our furnace. You need a series of tubes that are spread out below the baffle.


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## CrappieKeith (Dec 23, 2010)

Our patented process was designed to bring in 80% of the air from below the grates and the super heated air...20% above the grates into the smoke.If the air above does not get over 1100 degrees the smoke will not burn.
It's a process that will take some expeirimentation. As Layne pointed out the box is of good size. You'll need to get the air added to the right amount plus get it to the right temp.


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## Diesel nut (Dec 24, 2010)

I guess I'll just have to keep experimenting with it. I think I'm going to try to reduce the size of my burner tubes and see what that does. I appreciate any info and the pics are always good. I still need to get some pics on here. It's kind of a pain.


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## hautions11 (Dec 24, 2010)

*Furnace*

Love the project. I have a Royal furnace, similar vintage. Same round top. I have wanted to add secondary burn forever. Nothing really to add except the factory set-ups I have seen are real thin walled stainless, I assume to heat up faster. Was the idea with glass just temporary? Keep going!


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## Diesel nut (Jan 12, 2011)

I'm thinking of tying my wood furnace into my propane boiler system. If I used some copper tubing to go around the fire box would this work? Anyone know if this has been done before? I've looked on here for a while but no luck.


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## homemade (Jan 12, 2011)

Even thought copper tubing would be a likely choice. the solder wont hold up to the heat developed around the fire box. I get on average 150-175 degrees 3 feet after the furnace on the duct work. The draft fan cut-out switch reaches 200 just to turn the draft fan off. I could see 300+ in the fire box. Perhaps black iron piping or stainless. Dont go with galvinized either. The zinc will get hot and melt off eventually and rust away faster. Black iron is annoidized on and not hot diped like galvinized. Stainless is best. We use it for all our steam pipes at work. You wont be able to use pipe dope either it melts off. Teflon tape or welding the seams.

happy building.


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## Diesel nut (Jan 26, 2011)

Well I've been running this furnace for a little over a month and the secondary system I put in doesn't work for crap so I just run the thing like it was originally intended. It will run about 8-10 hours on a load no matter what the temp is outside. It keeps the house anywhere from 66-78 depending on if we're home or not. I'm guessing I've burned about 1.5 cords of nothing but oak. So I'm fairly happy with this thing considering it was free and it's an older machine. I've burned hardly any propane other than for the water heater and oven. Maybe someday I'll buy a better furnace thats more efficient than this one. But for now this one works.


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## pook (Jan 26, 2011)

Diesel nut said:


> Well I've been running this furnace for a little over a month and the secondary system I put in doesn't work for crap so I just run the thing like it was originally intended. It will run about 8-10 hours on a load no matter what the temp is outside. It keeps the house anywhere from 66-78 depending on if we're home or not. I'm guessing I've burned about 1.5 cords of nothing but oak. So I'm fairly happy with this thing considering it was free and it's an older machine. I've burned hardly any propane other than for the water heater and oven. Maybe someday I'll buy a better furnace thats more efficient than this one. But for now this one works.


 are the 2ndaries open when u "run it like normal"? Try this= get the 2ndaries firing & when they go out, observe the smoke @ the top of the chimni then go back & block the 2ndaries & recheck smoke @ the top of the chimni. It may take time? to see results from these 2 different settings & monitoring temp of the fluegas would help 4fun data.
Even though the pipes aint flaming, the incoming air is still traveling to the hottest point within the stove, typically the coals. My EPA stove has the primary air intake/airwash for the glass located right where the firebox exhausts into the chimni & though this air is preheated & more apt to rise, the air still dives down to get at the hot coals.
Some EPA stoves insulate above the baffle over the 2ndaries so to create a hotter zone on top & prompt the load to burn from the top down which is more efficient. Burning method 4 EPA stove is different from non-EPA
Lotta factors @ play & if u want pm me ur fone# + read my blog?


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