# log splitter repair



## tocold4u2 (Dec 10, 2006)

well i went and broke my log splitter today ,  i just about had all my hickory split ,,snapped the cylinder rod . i guess i`ll have to make a modification and a trip to tractor supply or get one from northern tool.
i guess is back to splitting the old fashion way :jawdrop: 
:greenchainsaw:


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## sawinredneck (Dec 10, 2006)

If it broke out at the end towards the eye, it can be welded, there is always a good welder around, cost a lot less than a new cyl!!!
Andy


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## Jackman (Dec 10, 2006)

Wow...you broke the cyliner rod? What's its diameter? What were you splitting...a crotch or something really tough? Just curious...


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## 046 (Dec 10, 2006)

how's about a pic?

what brand/model is it?


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## mga (Dec 11, 2006)

buy a new cylinder....a bigger one. chances are you bent the one you have anyways and even if welded, if it's not straight or the weld re-ground, it'll always leak.

there have been some great deals on e-bay.


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## Husky137 (Dec 11, 2006)

Figure out why it broke before wasting time and money on a repair that could be for naught.


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## tocold4u2 (Dec 11, 2006)

*log splitter*

:bang: yea i know why it broke :taped: , either it broke at the weld(that`s what it looks like to me )or i had the cylinder a 1/4 inch lower because i had to redesign a few things on it after replacing a old cylinder that went bad .it had a bracket to hold the old cylinder up a 1/4 inch ,,,i guess i`ll make another bracket for my cylinder. it`s a homemade logsplitter with a 14 hp brig
i try to get a pic wensday , i wasen`t splitting a knot or nothing , just a round chunk of s.b. hickory , i belive i just got it in a bind or the weld actually snapped at the push-block. i `ll probally get a new cylinder , and reweld the old one as a back up.


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## tocold4u2 (Dec 14, 2006)

*log splitter*

looks like i should be able to fix the splitter ,,i think i can weld a coupling onto the nut and the rod after i reweld where it broke. i`ll try that and if that fails then i go to plan b, which i`ll get a 2 stage pump and a larger ram ( atleast i think that`s what i need to make it cycle faster?? right?? )
this won`t happen till next week sometime ,,,but i`ll let ya know when


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## Buckeye (Dec 15, 2006)

A pump with a higher GPM rating will decrease the cycle time.

A larger cylinder will run slower than a small one.


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## sawinredneck (Dec 15, 2006)

Buckeye said:


> A pump with a higher GPM rating will decrease the cycle time.
> 
> A larger cylinder will run slower than a small one.




HUH?????????????????????? A higher GPM will flow more, making the cylinder move faster!!!!!!!

Yes, all things equal, a larger cylinder will run slower, but have more tonnage.
Andy


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## Buckeye (Dec 15, 2006)

sawinredneck said:


> HUH?????????????????????? A higher GPM will flow more, making the cylinder move faster!!!!!!!
> 
> Yes, all things equal, a larger cylinder will run slower, but have more tonnage.
> Andy




That's exactly what I said, on both counts.

A bigger pump moves the ram more quickly, thus reducing the time required to run a full cycle.


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## tocold4u2 (Dec 15, 2006)

*log splitter*

ok then i`ll go wit a larger pump and keep my same size cylinder set up, it`s not the fastest ,and it splits like a ox in heat :censored: 
but i`t would be nice to get it to run just a hair faster:greenchainsaw: 
i`ll figure something out by next weekend


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## 046 (Dec 15, 2006)

to increase overall flow, doesn't actuator valve and all hydraulic lines need to be matched in sized? 

I've got the same basic issue of wanting a faster cycle time. 
mine has a 5in ram, 16gpm driven by 12.5 hp. 

can hydraulic pumps be adjusted to put out higher flow?


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## sawinredneck (Dec 15, 2006)

Buckeye said:


> That's exactly what I said, on both counts.
> 
> A bigger pump moves the ram more quickly, thus reducing the time required to run a full cycle.




Terribly sorry about the brain fade! Pain has overridden the brain as of late!!! 
Again, sorry about that.
Andy


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## sawinredneck (Dec 15, 2006)

046 said:


> to increase overall flow, doesn't actuator valve and all hydraulic lines need to be matched in sized?
> 
> I've got the same basic issue of wanting a faster cycle time.
> mine has a 5in ram, 16gpm driven by 12.5 hp.
> ...




More pressure, but not more flow. Flow is derived by the displacment of the pump, bigger pump, more flow and more power required to run the flow.
Andy


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## Frank Boyer (Dec 15, 2006)

You can increase the engine rpm to increase flow. The problem with that is more heat, fuel useage, and shorter engine life.


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## CylinderService (Dec 16, 2006)

*Logsplitter Hydraulics*

Broken & bent rods on logsplitter cylinders are pretty common. There are many causes, but design of the pusher, and mounting of the cylinder are the usual culprits. The cylinder should be mounted at only 2 points, one on the pusher, and one on the cylinder (usually at the base end with a clevis or cross pin). Avoid the temptation to put a u-bolt or other fastening near the rod-end of the cylinder. When the pusher goes out of line with the cylinder axis, it bends the rod. If you're lucky, it only puts side stress on the cylinder gland and wear on the side of the rod. Unlucky, and the rod buckles. It will always wiggle a little though, so you want a flexible attachment between the rod & the pusher.
The pusher should be WELL guided, so that the cylinder remains in line with the beam regardless of what a knotty chunk might want to do. Longer side guides help. Usually if the flat plate is on the rod end, and the wedge at the end of the beam, there is less side force on the pusher. But this isn't always practical, I know.
As for cylinders, there are cheap cylinders, and there are good cylinders, and they're rarely the same. The new Prince tie-rod cylinders have heat treated rods with nickel-under-chrome plating. They are far stronger than the cheap cylinders being imported from every third world country you can name. Check our web site if you want a good one - CylinderServices.net
As for cycle time, the guys are right about larger pumps & smaller cylinders making faster splitters. I personally think a 4" bore cylinder is all most people need for most splitting. With a 16 GPM 2-stage pump it will make a nice splitter. Larger cylinders put out more force, but you pay for it with slower cycle speed. If you really want 16 GPM though, you'll probably have to go to 3/4" hoses & fittings, and a valve with 3/4" ports. 1/2" lines will work, but if you checked it with a flow meter, you'd probably find you were getting less than 16 GPM. We've got some good deals on 2 stage pumps too.

Good luck getting it back together.

Don the hydraulics guy


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 16, 2006)

CylinderService said:


> Broken & bent rods on logsplitter cylinders are pretty common. There are many causes, but design of the pusher, and mounting of the cylinder are the usual culprits. The cylinder should be mounted at only 2 points, one on the pusher, and one on the cylinder (usually at the base end with a clevis or cross pin). Avoid the temptation to put a u-bolt or other fastening near the rod-end of the cylinder. When the pusher goes out of line with the cylinder axis, it bends the rod. If you're lucky, it only puts side stress on the cylinder gland and wear on the side of the rod. Unlucky, and the rod buckles. It will always wiggle a little though, so you want a flexible attachment between the rod & the pusher.
> The pusher should be WELL guided, so that the cylinder remains in line with the beam regardless of what a knotty chunk might want to do. Longer side guides help. Usually if the flat plate is on the rod end, and the wedge at the end of the beam, there is less side force on the pusher. But this isn't always practical, I know.
> As for cylinders, there are cheap cylinders, and there are good cylinders, and they're rarely the same. The new Prince tie-rod cylinders have heat treated rods with nickel-under-chrome plating. They are far stronger than the cheap cylinders being imported from every third world country you can name. Check our web site if you want a good one - CylinderServices.net
> As for cycle time, the guys are right about larger pumps & smaller cylinders making faster splitters. I personally think a 4" bore cylinder is all most people need for most splitting. With a 16 GPM 2-stage pump it will make a nice splitter. Larger cylinders put out more force, but you pay for it with slower cycle speed. If you really want 16 GPM though, you'll probably have to go to 3/4" hoses & fittings, and a valve with 3/4" ports. 1/2" lines will work, but if you checked it with a flow meter, you'd probably find you were getting less than 16 GPM. We've got some good deals on 2 stage pumps too.
> ...



my 16gpm pump has 1/2" outlet.


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## CylinderService (Dec 16, 2006)

Yeah, I know Casey. Ours do too. But running everything else 3/4" will help a lot.

Don


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## 046 (Dec 17, 2006)

my 16gpm also has 3/4 coming in to actuator valve, but 1/2in steel line going to 6in ram. it's got 12.5hp driving pump with 15 second cycle times. 

would cycle times improve if I change out 1/2in steel line to 3/4in?


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## tocold4u2 (Dec 17, 2006)

CylinderService said:


> Broken & bent rods on logsplitter cylinders are pretty common. There are many causes, but design of the pusher, and mounting of the cylinder are the usual culprits. The cylinder should be mounted at only 2 points, one on the pusher, and one on the cylinder (usually at the base end with a clevis or cross pin). Avoid the temptation to put a u-bolt or other fastening near the rod-end of the cylinder. When the pusher goes out of line with the cylinder axis, it bends the rod. If you're lucky, it only puts side stress on the cylinder gland and wear on the side of the rod. Unlucky, and the rod buckles. It will always wiggle a little though, so you want a flexible attachment between the rod & the pusher.
> The pusher should be WELL guided, so that the cylinder remains in line with the beam regardless of what a knotty chunk might want to do. Longer side guides help. Usually if the flat plate is on the rod end, and the wedge at the end of the beam, there is less side force on the pusher. But this isn't always practical, I know.
> As for cylinders, there are cheap cylinders, and there are good cylinders, and they're rarely the same. The new Prince tie-rod cylinders have heat treated rods with nickel-under-chrome plating. They are far stronger than the cheap cylinders being imported from every third world country you can name. Check our web site if you want a good one - CylinderServices.net
> As for cycle time, the guys are right about larger pumps & smaller cylinders making faster splitters. I personally think a 4" bore cylinder is all most people need for most splitting. With a 16 GPM 2-stage pump it will make a nice splitter. Larger cylinders put out more force, but you pay for it with slower cycle speed. If you really want 16 GPM though, you'll probably have to go to 3/4" hoses & fittings, and a valve with 3/4" ports. 1/2" lines will work, but if you checked it with a flow meter, you'd probably find you were getting less than 16 GPM. We've got some good deals on 2 stage pumps too.
> ...



my cylinder is a 4" bore and 24" stroke i`m not sure about the pump , and i think the hose ends are 1/2" , maybe i could increase the hose and make it run a hair faster or go to a 3" bore and a 24" stroke


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## Patrick62 (Dec 18, 2006)

*An interesting discussion!*

Lots of good ideas here.
For what it is worth, my splitter has
15hp engine
16GPM pump
5" cylinder
1/2" hoses. I probably am losing some in the hoses. If the pump had come with 3/4" outlet, then I would have run 3/4 hose... The tank is fairly large with 14-16 gallons oil in a 20 gallon tank.

Works for me, but the cycle time isn't the fastest.

-Pat


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## CylinderService (Dec 18, 2006)

*Logsplitter cycle time*

I'm a little uncomfortable promising you guys faster cycle time if you make this or that improvement. There's no question that 16 GPM will be restricted going through a 1/2" line, but whether changing lines, fittings, valves, etc will be worth the cost is best determined by the "try it & see" method. 
But here's some info which may help you determine how close your times come to the theoretical time of a cylinder running at 16 GPM:

These are inches per second, cylinders extending:
3" cyl - 8.6 
3.5" cyl - 6.4
4" cyl - 5.0 
4.5" cyl - 3.8
5" cyl - 3.2 
6" cyl - 2.2

Retraction speeds are faster because the rod reduces the amount of oil in that end of the cylinder. The larger the rod, the faster the retraction.

You wouldn't expect to equal these speeds, but if your times are a lot slower you can probably make improvements with larger components.

Hope this helps.

Don


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## 046 (Dec 18, 2006)

my 6in ram with 24 in travel @ 16gpm = 11 seconds
If I'm getting 8.5 sec down and 7.5 sec up. I'm getting slightly more than 16gpm flow. 



CylinderService said:


> I'm a little uncomfortable promising you guys faster cycle time if you make this or that improvement. There's no question that 16 GPM will be restricted going through a 1/2" line, but whether changing lines, fittings, valves, etc will be worth the cost is best determined by the "try it & see" method.
> But here's some info which may help you determine how close your times come to the theoretical time of a cylinder running at 16 GPM:
> 
> These are inches per second, cylinders extending:
> ...


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## tocold4u2 (Dec 18, 2006)

*log splitter repair*

 ok i got the ram & pushblock re welded got it hooked back up , and wouldn`t you know it ,,,the bat . was dead :bang: 
anyways i have a question for (CYLINDER SERVICE) 
how about if i made the 1/2 line that pushes the cylinder foward into 3/4
and then leave the return line at 1/2 " would it help? or just change both lines to 3/4 it`s a 4 x 24" but i`m not sure on the pump
i will get a picture of the splitter maybe tomorrow after i put the bat back in


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## CylinderService (Dec 19, 2006)

A 6 x 24" cylinder holds 2.94 gals, so an 8.5 sec extension time equals 20.75 GPM oil flow. Either you got a good deal on the pump, or a bad deal on the watch!

ToCold, putting a bigger line on the extension port of your cylinder might help, since that end of the cylinder holds more oil. The highest flow occurs on retraction, when the oil going out of the base end exceeds the pump rate. The bigger the rod, the more the difference. Good thinking!

Don


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## 046 (Dec 19, 2006)

WOW!!! thanks for explaining how it works. It appears I'm already getting flow excess of spec's of 16gpm. timed with a Marathon TSAR 







where can you find capacity data for other size rams?



CylinderService said:


> A 6 x 24" cylinder holds 2.94 gals, so an 8.5 sec extension time equals 20.75 GPM oil flow. Either you got a good deal on the pump, or a bad deal on the watch!
> 
> ToCold, putting a bigger line on the extension port of your cylinder might help, since that end of the cylinder holds more oil. The highest flow occurs on retraction, when the oil going out of the base end exceeds the pump rate. The bigger the rod, the more the difference. Good thinking!
> 
> Don


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## CylinderService (Dec 19, 2006)

All you need to know for this is the diameter & stroke of the cylinder, and how long it takes to stroke.

The volume of a cylinder is Pi r squared times length, all in inches. Divide by 231 (cubic inches per Gal).
If the cylinder extends in 8.5 sec, divide the cyl volume in gallons by 8.5 to get gallons per sec, then multiply by 60 to get gallons per minute.

For your cylinder the calculations are:
3 x 3 x 3.14 x 24" = 678.24 cubic inches
divided by 231 = 2.94 gal
divided by 8.5 sec = .345 gal per sec
x 60 = 20.73 gal per min

Gee, I'm giving away all my secrets!

Have fun.

Don


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## 046 (Dec 19, 2006)

thank YOU!



CylinderService said:


> All you need to know for this is the diameter & stroke of the cylinder, and how long it takes to stroke.
> 
> The volume of a cylinder is Pi r squared times length, all in inches. Divide by 231 (cubic inches per Gal).
> If the cylinder extends in 8.5 sec, divide the cyl volume in gallons by 8.5 to get gallons per sec, then multiply by 60 to get gallons per minute.
> ...


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## tocold4u2 (Dec 19, 2006)

CylinderService said:


> A 6 x 24" cylinder holds 2.94 gals, so an 8.5 sec extension time equals 20.75 GPM oil flow. Either you got a good deal on the pump, or a bad deal on the watch!
> 
> ToCold, putting a bigger line on the extension port of your cylinder might help, since that end of the cylinder holds more oil. The highest flow occurs on retraction, when the oil going out of the base end exceeds the pump rate. The bigger the rod, the more the difference. Good thinking!
> 
> Don


:jawdrop: dam that`s the same thing the old lady tells me :greenchainsaw: 
maybe i`ll try the 3/4 hose if so i`ll let ya know how it goes
c ya


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## tocold4u2 (Dec 21, 2006)

*log splitter repair*

i basically counted 1 thousand 1, 1 thousand 2 , ect
and it was around 17 sec for a complete cycle.
the ram is 4x 24 not sure if that`s good time and not sure on the size of the pump, i would like to see what a 28 gal pump would do on my splitter.
i will get a picture of the splitter tomorrow, i have cam across a great pile of wood and was told that if the wood wasen`t removed by sunday , that i could have it . i`ll keep my eye on that wood :hmm3grin2orange:


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## triptester (Dec 21, 2006)

tocold4u2,


With a 28 gpm pump the cycle time would be 4.9 seconds, with no resistance. Question is, is the nearly $400.00 price tag worth it.


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## neighborstree (Dec 21, 2006)

go buy A NEW splitter..i guess we all dont live by my standards lol


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## CylinderService (Dec 26, 2006)

*17 sec cycle time*

Tocold,
17 sec for a complete cycle would be equal to about 8 GPM. I don’t remember what pump you have, but if it’s a 2 stage pump, it’s not doing too well. The pump may be worn out, or there may be too much restriction in your valve & hoses.
I agree with triptester’s calculations, but “no resistance” is the key. Unless all the lines and the ports on your valve and cylinder are 3/4" or larger, you probably won’t be able to push 28 GPM through the system.
There’s a lot of room between 28 GPM and 8 GPM. For most people with a 4 x 24 cylinder, a 16 GPM 2-stage pump makes a nice splitter, and would cycle in about half the time you’re getting now. And they’re a lot less than $400!
Or you could borrow some easy money from “neighborstree” and go buy a new one!

Good Luck & Happy New Year,

Don


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## tocold4u2 (Dec 27, 2006)

*log splitter repair*

i will give it a look over ,,,,not sure what the pump is , i know the lines are 1/2" the splitter isn`t fast , but not slow either, maybe it needs turned up a bit?? this is a home made splitter and i haven`t done nothing to it yet but fixed the ram. i`ll get a pic of it


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## tocold4u2 (Dec 27, 2006)

i didn`t get a chance to look at the log splitter pump yet , but maybe the pump is just a single stage and not a 2 stage ??
i had a friend call me and ask if i wanted some wood , i went over to get it thinking it was soft wood,,well it turned out to be cherry , oak and walnut , i got probally 3/4 -1 cord . the wood needs split , i guess that will give me a reason to look at the splitter now


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## tocold4u2 (Dec 28, 2006)

*log splitter repair (pump)*

ok triptester and cylinder service , i found a tag on my pump here`s what it says (john s barnes) rockford IL
( 12/84 ) 1300159
GC-6016A18RB01

can anyone decode this or tell me what size pump and all i have here , and where i could send this to get it rebuilt, or order the items to rebuild it ???
i was thinking that it is a made in 1984 and that it`s a 16 gpm that`s just my guess from the #`s any help out there , thanks:biggrinbounce2: 
tonight i fired up the splitter , it hasen`t been run for 2 weeks, i let it run for 3-5 min then tried the ram, it was moving real slow , i figured that the fluid was still cold, i had to shut the splitter down cause i had to unload a truck load of walnut,oak,ash,and cherry.
anyone thinks that maybe a filter change would help? fluid change?
i will look it over sunday , i would saturday , but i will be out deer hunting.
if i would happen to need a new 2 stage pump should i go with 16 or the 22
barnes pump??
thanks for any help


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## tocold4u2 (Dec 28, 2006)

tocold4u2 said:


> ok triptester and cylinder service , i found a tag on my pump here`s what it says (john s barnes) rockford IL
> ( 12/84 ) 1300159
> GC-6016A18RB01
> 
> ...



the tag says (john s barnes corp )
thanks for any help


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## triptester (Dec 28, 2006)

The barnes pump # 1300159 is a 11 gpm pump.


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## tocold4u2 (Dec 29, 2006)

*log splitter repair (pump)*

thanks for the info triptester,,,,if that is the case then i will get a new pump , atleast a 16
i would say that the old pump is getting weak
we will see sunday when i get time to look at itopcorn:


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 29, 2006)

Not sure if you mentioned your engine or not, but you need at least 8 horse for a 16gpm pump.


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## tocold4u2 (Dec 29, 2006)

*log splitter repair (pump)*

yea , the engine is 11 hp
i will look around for some prices on pumps


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 29, 2006)

I got my 16gpm pump frpm TSC, I believe its was around $190. Barnes 2 stage pump.


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## triptester (Dec 29, 2006)

The 16 gpm pumps were going for $170 at northern tool.


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## tocold4u2 (Dec 31, 2006)

*log splitter repair (pump)*

well for now i will try the easiest , and change the fluid, it`s been awhile
we`ll see what affect that will have on it first and go from there :yoyo:


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## redprospector (Dec 31, 2006)

I got a new Barnes 16 gpm 2 stage on Ebay for 96 or 97 dollars with shipping.

Andy


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## tocold4u2 (Dec 31, 2006)

*log splitter repair (pump)*

well the splitter was cycling faster before,,,now it seems slower , i changed the fluid between rain showers , the cycle time is still slow. it`s gotta be the pump:bang: 
i guess i`ll keep my eyes open for a 16 or larger pump:hmm3grin2orange:


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## CylinderService (Jan 2, 2007)

Tocold,
It sounds like you may be having trouble drawing oil into the pump when its cold. You might try lighter oil, and if your filter is on the intake line (between the tank & the pump), move it to the return side, (between the valve & the tank). Strainers are OK on the suction side, but filters really should be on the return, and you can use a finer element (10 micron) there. 
Usually a starving pump makes a whining noise. Also the suction line should be at least 1" (inside).
But if the pump is that old, it probably is worn out. I never had any luck getting parts for Barnes logsplitter pumps.
By the way, our 16 GPM 2-stage pumps are $136.

Don the Hydraulics Guy


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## tocold4u2 (Jan 2, 2007)

*log splitter repair (pump)*

cylinderservice, i tried the lighter oil,change,oil,filter, it`s still the same. i think that the pump is getting weak. my filter is on the return side.
i looked at your web site but i didn`t see any 2 stage pumps there , you say you have a 16 gpm, do you have a 22 gpm if so what`s the price on that ? do you also carry the half couplings incase i would need one size smaller or larger than the other??
let me know,, i have a 1/2 cord to split by hand  before it gets 2 dark.


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## CylinderService (Jan 3, 2007)

Tocold,
Sorry, the 2-stage pumps aren't on our web site yet. But nothing larger than 16 GPM for now.
And I've been trying to stay away from shaft couplings, but that may change too. Not yet though.

Don


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## tocold4u2 (Jan 8, 2007)

*log splitter repair (pump)*

ok i have been looking around for pumps, i could get one off ebay , or get one from northern, or from cylinder service. which size should i get , i have a 11 hp craftsman motor powering this unit. i`m thinking either a 16 gpm or a 22 gpm pump. i have so big chunks to split (2 people put on the splitter size)
the fluid tank is probally 3.5 gal
and the ram i believe it was a 4" bore x 24 stroke 
HELP OUT THERE :biggrinbounce2: :deadhorse: 
THANKS FOR ANY HELP


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## Buckeye (Jan 8, 2007)

Two 'rules of thumb':

For every 1 GPM of pump capacity you need -

At least 1/2 horsepower to drive. (16 GPM pump = 8 HP motor)
1 gallon of resevoir capacity (16 GPM pump = 16 gallon tank)

For your application, I would go with the 16 GPM pump, and build/buy a bigger tank. Empty beer kegs work great for resevoir tanks, and can be found relatively cheap. I obtain mine from the local college kids for the cost of their deposit ($10) - I get a cheap tank, and they don't have to haul their empties back to the beer distributor. A standard keg holds 15.5 gallons.


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## mga (Jan 8, 2007)

CylinderService said:


> Tocold,
> Sorry, the 2-stage pumps aren't on our web site yet. But nothing larger than 16 GPM for now.
> And I've been trying to stay away from shaft couplings, but that may change too. Not yet though.
> 
> Don



why stay away from shaft couplings? the only other place i know of in rochester is graingers.

and, c'mon...let's get them two stage pumps on the web site!!


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## mga (Jan 8, 2007)

tocold4u2 said:


> ok i have been looking around for pumps, i could get one off ebay , or get one from northern, or from cylinder service. which size should i get , i have a 11 hp craftsman motor powering this unit. i`m thinking either a 16 gpm or a 22 gpm pump. i have so big chunks to split (2 people put on the splitter size)
> the fluid tank is probally 3.5 gal
> and the ram i believe it was a 4" bore x 24 stroke
> HELP OUT THERE :biggrinbounce2: :deadhorse:
> THANKS FOR ANY HELP



i used an 11 hp briggs with my dual stage pump....it worked perfectly and split everything without any problems. i only went to an 18 hp because i had one laying around doing nothing.


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## Frank Boyer (Jan 8, 2007)

tocold4u2 said:


> well the splitter was cycling faster before,,,now it seems slower , i changed the fluid between rain showers , the cycle time is still slow. it`s gotta be the pump:bang:
> i guess i`ll keep my eyes open for a 16 or larger pump:hmm3grin2orange:



Pumps last a long time. Control valves clog up a lot more than pumps wear out. Test the output of your pump with a 3000 psi pressure gauge and you will probably find that the pump is good. Take the control valve apart and clean it and replace any worn seals/parts.


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## CylinderService (Jan 9, 2007)

MGA,
OK. I sent in the page on 2-stage pumps today. It should be on our site within a few days. Thanks for the push!

Don


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## tocold4u2 (Jan 13, 2007)

*log splitter repair (pump)*

ok i have 1 bolt that just won`t come loose, i`ve tried everything,,,i guess it`s time to get the liquid wrench out :hmm3grin2orange:


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## mga (Jan 13, 2007)

CylinderService said:


> MGA,
> OK. I sent in the page on 2-stage pumps today. It should be on our site within a few days. Thanks for the push!
> 
> Don



ok!!!

now, if only you'd have a quick link to your web site in your signature so one can readily access your site from here would be the cat's ass.


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## gar (Jul 5, 2009)

*John S. Barnes Corp pump*



triptester said:


> The barnes pump # 1300159 is a 11 gpm pump.



How many gpm?.... is the Barnes pump 11295 1300159 Is it a single or dual stage pump? Thanks. I'm running the pump about 1800 rpm with 8hp Wisconsin HDI Model WE270 Engine.


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## triptester (Jul 7, 2009)

gar said:


> How many gpm?.... is the Barnes pump 11295 1300159 Is it a single or dual stage pump? Thanks. I'm running the pump about 1800 rpm with 8hp Wisconsin HDI Model WE270 Engine.



This pump is a 2-stage pump. At 1800 rpms it will put out 1/2 of it's rated capacity or 5.5 gpm at high flow /low pressure. The 8 hp. engine will handle up to a 16 gpm 2-stage pump.


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## gar (Jul 7, 2009)

triptester said:


> This pump is a 2-stage pump. At 1800 rpms it will put out 1/2 of it's rated capacity or 5.5 gpm at high flow /low pressure. The 8 hp. engine will handle up to a 16 gpm 2-stage pump.



Thanks for that info........are repair kits available for this pump should it become necessary?


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## triptester (Jul 7, 2009)

Generaly these pumps very strong but if they break they are not worth the cost of rebuilding.


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