# Stihl 088 magnum



## Chris Harper (Aug 18, 2017)

I've been looking for a saw to use for as a chainsaw mill and found a stihl 088 magnum. Took it to our local dealer yesterday to have it checked out he said it is in their perfect condition and I definitely didn't get her for $400.. anyway to my question is this so suitable for small-scale Milling and if so what do you recommend for a good Milling attachment and what blade should I use ?? I really appreciate any help...


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## Brian72 (Aug 18, 2017)

I've never ran an 088 but that should be a great saw for milling. I think it's around 122cc. The more power the better. I own the Granberg mill and I'm very happy with it. So far I've only used the full chisel chain that came with the saw but I also bought a few loops of woodland pro ripping chain from Bailey's that I haven't had a chance to run yet. Do a little digging on this site and you'll find tons of great info.

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## Chris Harper (Aug 18, 2017)

Brian72 said:


> I've never ran an 088 but that should be a great saw for milling. I think it's around 122cc. The more power the better. I own the Granberg mill and I'm very happy with it. So far I've only used the full chisel chain that came with the saw but I also bought a few loops of woodland pro ripping chain from Bailey's that I haven't had a chance to run yet. Do a little digging on this site and you'll find tons of great info.
> 
> Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


Great thank you


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## LonestarStihl (Aug 18, 2017)

880 is great for milling. What do you consider small scale? And if you got it for $400 change your name and address and run with it


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## Cease232 (Aug 18, 2017)

As a general rule use the smallest bar possible for the wood you are milling. Reduces weight, operator fatigue and increases oiler efficiency. Granberg Alaska mill is great and I would highly recommend the granberg mini mill in addition. It's worth every penny and I can't believe I ever worked without one. 


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## Chris Harper (Aug 18, 2017)

LonestarStihl said:


> 880 is great for milling. What do you consider small scale? And if you got it for $400 change your name and address and run with it


I'm just looking to rip Cedar for benches, shelves things like that. I'm not really looking to make lumber for say just don't want to tear it up if it's running for like 5 minutes on a say 6 foot cut. As for the price of the saw I wasn't sure if that was good or bad but the gentleman I got it from has had it for a very long time and I've helped him out over the years although the Saw was never really used he said it only had about 15 hours on it and he's a really honest guy so I do believe him anyway he told me he would make me a great deal on it give me a couple of weeks to try it out if I'm not happy with it he will buy it back hope I didn't get too screwed but guess it is what it is. PS. I know my questions probably seem stupid to you guys but my only experience is cutting firewood throughout a lifetime have never really dealt with a situation of ripping wood or this type of a saw.


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## LonestarStihl (Aug 18, 2017)

088 for $400 is a great deal


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## Brian72 (Aug 18, 2017)

You got an amazing price on that saw! A new Stihl 880, which is the new equivalent of the 088, is probably an $1,800 saw. You got a once-in-a-lifetime buy! Absolutely no need to worry about your questions. I'm fairly new myself and we all were rookies at one time. I will say this, be very cautious and get some good safety equipment. These big saws are a whole different animal compared to smaller firewood saws we all started with. Bringing your questions to these forums will get you some great advice and ideas.

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## BigOakAdot (Aug 19, 2017)

If that price came up I would buy it instantly. That saw with only 15 hours on it is worth all of $800. Probably even more. 

I have an grandberg mkIII which does up to 36" wide and it's perfect. Highly recommend it.


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## SeMoTony (Aug 19, 2017)

Chris Harper said:


> I'm just looking to rip Cedar for benches, shelves things like that. I'm not really looking to make lumber for say just don't want to tear it up if it's running for like 5 minutes on a say 6 foot cut. As for the price of the saw I wasn't sure if that was good or bad but the gentleman I got it from has had it for a very long time and I've helped him out over the years although the Saw was never really used he said it only had about 15 hours on it and he's a really honest guy so I do believe him anyway he told me he would make me a great deal on it give me a couple of weeks to try it out if I'm not happy with it he will buy it back hope I didn't get too screwed but guess it is what it is. PS. I know my questions probably seem stupid to you guys but my only experience is cutting firewood throughout a lifetime have never really dealt with a situation of ripping wood or this type of a saw.



I've used Alaskan mill for several years now. Once the correct setup is learned, from a couple mistakes, it gets natural. If you find that you don't want to keep that saw PM me and I'll send $550 + shipping for that saw.
Top o' the page milling 101 will give info redundantly that is huge assist in avoiding errors and show how to make your own mill frame from scratch if you so desire. How there are more than a single thin path to git'er done. My avatar shows 60" cannon bar powered by ms-460 spinning skip chisel chain for the inline grain slabs and the table top cross grain cuts.
Plan safety to act safely & welcome


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## earlthegoat2 (Aug 20, 2017)

I used a 660 with the Alaskan mill on softwood as well. Went 28" with it just fine. The SYP I was milling will be tougher than the cedar you are milling I believe so your saw will be sufficient and then some. 

BTW let me reward you with a good hearty YOU SUCK. You got that 088 for 200 less dollars than I bought my 660 for and the 088s usually go for around 50% more than a comparable 066 or 660. 

Chainsaw milling is hard work. It will be a little harder lugging the heavier 088 around but you will be glad you have it I think.


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## Chris Harper (Aug 24, 2017)

earlthegoat2 said:


> I used a 660 with the Alaskan mill on softwood as well. Went 28" with it just fine. The SYP I was milling will be tougher than the cedar you are milling I believe so your saw will be sufficient and then some.
> 
> BTW let me reward you with a good hearty YOU SUCK. You got that 088 for 200 less dollars than I bought my 660 for and the 088s usually go for around 50% more than a comparable 066 or 660.
> 
> Chainsaw milling is hard work. It will be a little harder lugging the heavier 088 around but you will be glad you have it I think.


Thank you great information


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## Chris Harper (Aug 24, 2017)

SeMoTony said:


> I've used Alaskan mill for several years now. Once the correct setup is learned, from a couple mistakes, it gets natural. If you find that you don't want to keep that saw PM me and I'll send $550 + shipping for that saw.
> Top o' the page milling 101 will give info redundantly that is huge assist in avoiding errors and show how to make your own mill frame from scratch if you so desire. How there are more than a single thin path to git'er done. My avatar shows 60" cannon bar powered by ms-460 spinning skip chisel chain for the inline grain slabs and the table top cross grain cuts.
> Plan safety to act safely & welcome


Will do


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## Lowhog (Sep 4, 2017)

Chris Harper said:


> Will do


Make sure yoou run your fuel mix on the heavy side and richen the saw a bit, milling is tuff on saws.


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## gemniii (Sep 14, 2017)

Chris Harper said:


> I've been looking for a saw to use for as a chainsaw mill and found a stihl 088 magnum. Took it to our local dealer yesterday to have it checked out he said it is in their perfect condition and I definitely didn't get her for $400.. anyway to my question is this so suitable for small-scale Milling and if so what do you recommend for a good Milling attachment and what blade should I use ?? I really appreciate any help...



Well that's a decent bargain. I got my 088 w/ bar, chain, 2 nice boxes AND an Alaskan MK III for $450.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/found-an-088-on-cl.207812/#post-3829973

If your only going to use it for narrow tree milling I'd get the shortest bar and narrowest chain I could get by with. I run a 41" on my 660's and have had no problem pulling through 30" maple.


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## Jimbo209 (Oct 1, 2017)

25-1 or 32-1
I Had a stihl tech say 25-1 safe bet on any older saw Like my 084 or even the 660.

Progressive rakers
Spend $20?? or similar small amount extra on roll cost for ripping chain, even though I filed mine across from standard 30° that I had before milling. I feel it would be smoother otherwise.

Drill bar and bolt to the mill, No slipping and cutting bolts, I've done that a few times

A Roll of chain and breakers as when kitted with different size bars it's good but if you only have a set size or 3, then you can buy bulk pre made at a cost similar to roll price.


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