# Milling with 372xp...



## czeigler (Sep 20, 2008)

A buddy of mine and I are looking at purchasing an Alaskan Mill...

Looking for any suggestions as to what we need to get started. I have been looking on Bailey's but not sure what we need to get going.

Open to any suggestions...

Thanks in advance.


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## Zodiac45 (Sep 20, 2008)

Get the 36" Alaskan mill and for that saw I wouldn't use more than a 24" bar. If you need more you'll need a larger saw.


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## woodshop (Sep 20, 2008)

czeigler said:


> A buddy of mine and I are looking at purchasing an Alaskan Mill...
> 
> Looking for any suggestions as to what we need to get started. I have been looking on Bailey's but not sure what we need to get going.
> 
> ...



372 is a litte on the light side if you're planning to mill more than 12 inch wide hardwood. I've milled 28 inch oak with only a 365, but it was real slow going, and that saw was working it's heart out non stop for 15 minutes a slab. If you're only going to mill 8 iunch wide boards, 372 will work fine, just slower than a big bore saw. 

Other suggestion as has been said over and over on here is to get the 36 inch mill, not anything shorter.


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## czeigler (Sep 20, 2008)

Thanks for the quick replies! 

The 48" is only $10 more, should we stay with the 36" or get the 48"?

We do have some big stuff, such as 36" red elm... we have 2 logs that size and then maybe 2 douglas fir that are that size as well.

Everything else is 18" - 24" diameter. We have about 60 logs total and only a couple are smaller than 18" diameter. 

We are thinking about just getting the big stuff done on one of the local mills but would like to do the other stuff by ourselves without paying someone to do it. It would be easier getting it done, especially the way our schedules are.

Do we need to by rails also? 

We were looking at getting the Granberg Mini-Mill to go along with the Alaskan though!


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## excess650 (Sep 20, 2008)

Where are you in Pa?


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## czeigler (Sep 21, 2008)

excess650 said:


> Where are you in Pa?



Near Carlisle... West of Harrisburg.


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## lazermule (Sep 21, 2008)

I have the small Grandberg mill and I have used my Husky 61 on it for a year and it worked pretty good. I recently bought a 372xp and plan to use it with this mill as well and I believe it will work real well as I really only mill 20" and smaller trees.

Running the 61 and the 372xp, I would say that the 372xp makes 2x the HP of the 61.


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## excess650 (Sep 21, 2008)

czeigler said:


> Near Carlisle... West of Harrisburg.



I thought that I recognized the name, but the guy I'm thinking of is from Berks County, I think.

You mentioned having some big logs, and were questioning the wisdom of the 48" Alaskan. Granberg mentions that a smaller mill is much more handy on smaller logs than a bigger mill. Keep in mind that a square cant will be up to 70% diameter of the small end of your log. This in mind, a true 50" log will yield a 35" cant, which is wider than a 36" mill is capable of. At best the 36" mill will cut 33.5" width, and you had better have a big saw with 40"+ bar to achieve that. When the log/mill/and bar become very large, its time for the "helper handle" on the end of the bar at a minimum. I've seen video of big logs being cut and there were actually 2 power heads in use, one on each end of the bar.

If you make a top cut, drop the bar in the mill and make the bottom cut, you need only turn the log 90* once to make a square cant IF the log is less than the maximum cut width of the mill. If the log is larger, it can be turned multiple times, or else use one of the various "beam machines" or a mini mill to cut the sides to a useable width prior to making the bottom cut. Theoretically, this latter method wouldn't require turning the log at all, but I can't testify as to how square or parallel the sides will be.

As for rails on which to make at least the initial cut, I've used 2x4s, but other guys use lengths of aluminum extension ladders, while others buy the Granberg stuff.

My own Alaskan was purchased as the 24", and it will cut 21.5" width max. I've used it with a 272XP, but think my 066 will be faster. I may opt to buy either 30" or 36" rails for my mill to change as I see the need for, but can't imagine needing anything longer than the 36". I don't have an 088/MS880 or Husqvarna 3120, and really don't want to go to the expense for use once in a blue moon.


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## testlight (Sep 21, 2008)

Yes rails make getting started possible. I made my own, won't do that again. as a matter of fact, I don't think I will ever use an AK mill if I can help it. They are great if you just want to make cants, or big beams, but if there is a local mill, have them do it. They can do it faster and cheaper especially if you have to buy or wear out a saw for the job.
I used an 056 (90 or so cc) with fancy ripping chain on yellow cedar and the progress was very slow. Besides, with 3/8 chain you are losing a lot to the kerf.


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## woodshop (Sep 22, 2008)

excess650 said:


> ...At best the 36" mill will cut 33.5" width, and you had better have a big saw with 40"+ bar to achieve that...



A lot of good information in your post, thanks. Actually on my Granberg Mark III 36" mill if you assemble the ends as far apart as you can there is 34.5 inches between the posts. So if you slide it on a large enough bar that has at least that much bar between the dogs and the sprocket area (like a 42 inch), as you say you can then mill a full 34.5 inches. Here on the east coast, most of the time I'm milling less than that. I do run across large trees though, and with a mill, if you're short an inch of being able to quarter a log, it might as well be a mile. No matter what, you're going to have to trim a slab off of that log to fit it on there. For the cost diff between the sizes of the mills, it's just not worth it to get anything less than a 36 inch mill unless you are very sure you will never run into a log larger than 33 inches.

Also keep in mind that on those large logs, the best lumber is usually near the outside of the log. On logs larger than 24 inches, that slab you take off to make it into a square cant if you're milling it that way usually has at least one and often several of the best knot free highest grade boards as long as there isn't too much sapwood.


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