# Sawbuck Design Options



## Wood Doctor (Apr 1, 2010)

In the past, I have usually built and made my sawbucks with only two crossed uprights 16" to 18" apart. If the log is being bucked in half, I cut between the uprights, the two ends never pinch the bar during the cut and fall to the side. If I buck the log into thirds, I overhang one end long, cut that first, and then cut the second one between the uprights. This usually works very well.

Nowadays, I see more wider sawbucks being built with three crossed uprights.

(1) What is the advantage of three uprights over two?

(2) How far apart should they be if you want an average log length of 18" to 21"?

If you have any other tips on the design you like, please chime in.


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 1, 2010)

Here's the sawbuck that I use today. Should I change it by building a new one and add a third cross-lapped vertical support? 

















Seems like a simple question. Please advise. TIA.


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## Wife'nHubby (Apr 1, 2010)

Well, I just built our first sawbuck last week. Haven't had much chance to use it yet but I followed the plan by BlueRidgeMark, post #19, here: http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=68764&highlight=sawbuck&page=2

Shari


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 1, 2010)

Wife'nHubby said:


> Well, I just built our first sawbuck last week. Haven't had much chance to use it yet but I followed the plan by BlueRidgeMark, post #19, here: http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=68764&highlight=sawbuck&page=2
> 
> Shari


Shari, it looks to me like the spacing between the vertical crossed supports should be about the same length or just an inch or two under the length of the logs you are going to burn. If the supports are too far apart, logs will pinch the bar in the center and stop the saw as you cut top down.

If you intend to make three supports or more, I cannot see why they should not be the same width apart. Note also that once that third support is added, you will have to manually remove one side of any log that is halved. It will not drop by itself as both ends do in the sawbuck that I am now using (Post #2).

I still cannot figure out the advantage of three or more crossed uprights.


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## BluCllrSchlr (Apr 1, 2010)

I had some oversized pieces that I had to cut down to fit my insert. Other than that, I didn't have a big need for a sawbuck, but I knew it would be better to have one. The thing I didn't like about most of the ones I saw was the rails being so high. I searched for images typing in "sagebock", can't remember how I came across it, but I believe it German for sawbuck. 

This was my winner:








The other thing I liked was with four uprights, I could cut in between them and the wood would still be stable. I made mine out of oak, unlike the picture, all of the uprights are the same height and I tapered the tops so the wood would sit a little lower. I'll post some pics of mine if I get a chance.

The one in the picture looks pretty cool. It has lap joints and a little captured cam disk that locks it together, when apart it folds flat. I think if you were going to make one just like it, you would need some nice clear straight grained wood otherwise you would be fighting it everytime you went to put it together or take it apart.


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 1, 2010)

Excellent joinery, and I like the idea of folding flat while still maintaining the half-lap joinery. The captured cam disk is ingenious.

However, I stll have to wonder what the extra two center supports add. If you make two cross cuts on each internal side opening, it seems that one log still remains lodged in the center and has to be lifted out.

Make one center cut to any log less than about 40" and the two halves will not fall to the sides.


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## BluCllrSchlr (Apr 2, 2010)

Wood Doctor said:


> However, I stll have to wonder what the extra two center supports add....Make one center cut to any log less than about 40" and the two halves will not fall to the sides.



I think the center supports are there to hold the two halves after a center cut.

I agree about the joinery & design. I didn't need to save space, so I just borrowed the overall design and assembled it with screws. I think it would be handy if you had to transport it for use, such as having a lot of smaller wood to cut and if there were more than one person--one to move wood & one to cut.


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## BlueRidgeMark (Apr 2, 2010)

Wood Doctor said:


> Shari, it looks to me like the spacing between the vertical crossed supports should be about the same length or just an inch or two under the length of the logs you are going to burn. If the supports are too far apart, logs will pinch the bar in the center and stop the saw as you cut top down.



Not a problem. I've made hundreds of cuts on mine. There is RARELY a pinching problem. I should add that I'm cutting small stuff. Usually from about 8" down to 2 or 3 inches. Bigger stuff is _usually _cut on the ground.



Wood Doctor said:


> If you intend to make three supports or more, I cannot see why they should not be the same width apart.




The leftmost pair are different. Take a look at the measurements:







I make all my cuts on the RIGHT sides of the uprights. Wood that is cut just falls down. 



Wood Doctor said:


> Note also that once that third support is added, you will have to manually remove one side of any log that is halved. It will not drop by itself as both ends do in the sawbuck that I am now using (Post #2).




Yep. The last piece (or pieces) just sit there, until they are removed manually. No big deal - I usually just tip them off with the (not moving) bar of the saw. OR one of my helpers just grabs an armful of wood from a convenient height. 



Wood Doctor said:


> I still cannot figure out the advantage of three or more crossed uprights.



Mass production. I stack multiple long pieces, then make 4 cuts. This gives me 5 cut sections (of however many pieces I loaded) nicely cut to length, plus another section of random length. I've got boys scrambling to load new wood and remove what I've cut, so the whole process just floooows.

Let's walk through it:


Boys load up with wood, lining up left ends. Right side just hangs off.
Dad starts cutting from right to left:

First cut: Ragged ends fall from right side.
Second cut: First section is cut on its left end. Right side is still supported. Wood falls when cut is completed.
Third cut: Second section is cut on its left end. Right side is still supported. Wood falls when cut is completed.
Fourth cut: Third section is cut on its left end. Right side is still supported. Wood falls when cut is completed.

Fourth section is removed manually.


Rinse. Repeat. Works great. I have found this to be VERY fast and efficient.


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 2, 2010)

*Cutting 8' to 12' Slabs*

Good post, Mark. I have to wonder if average log length has a lot to do with the design also. I have a cutting-to-length job forthcoming that requires working with 8' to 12' slabwood. The slabs vary a lot in mass as well. Most pieces will then require 1 to 2 splits after first being cut to length using the sawbuck.

My theory is that simplicity might work best here with a little leg work thrown in. Suppose we are using my narrower, 2-upright buck shown in Post #2.

(1) Drop the slab on the sawbuck dead center on its length. That leaves about 4' to 5' on each side of the buck. Stack as many as the buck will hold.
(2) Cut a 20" length off one end. Slabs should still stay put.
(3) Walk to the other end and cut off two 20" lengths. 
(4) Cut the rest of the lengths with the final cut in the center of the buck.

In this case, it appears a buck with more crossed uprights like yoiur design will only reduce the effort required to maintain the balance, perhaps walking to the other end in step (3). However, if you have 500 slabs to cut up, that could be significant. opcorn:

Psstt... sure wish I had the luxury of all those kids helping out.


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## BluCllrSchlr (Apr 2, 2010)

What about one like this for long pieces?


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 2, 2010)

BluCllrSchlr said:


> What about one like this for long pieces?


I must admit that little contraption fascinates me. Bailey's carries it, but for $60 worth of angle iron and bolts I could probably make one in my shop. I imagine it would hold about any slab section that has to be cut except rejected log cores that really get heavy.

Looks like it might even fold flat for transport. Take a look at this one from Bailey's for $110 + S&H:
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15730

Not sure if it's the same one, but looks like it works like a charm. Rave reviews from users.


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 2, 2010)

And the 'use the search function' fails again. I tried to find my post "another sawbuck for limbs' and it insists it doesn't exist. I made the post over a year ago someting winter of 08/09

It is simple, not pretty, but very functional. Loads multiple limbs to be cut at once.

Harry K


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## Wife'nHubby (Apr 2, 2010)

turnkey4099 said:


> And the 'use the search function' fails again. I tried to find my post "another sawbuck for limbs' and it insists it doesn't exist. I made the post over a year ago someting winter of 08/09
> 
> It is simple, not pretty, but very functional. Loads multiple limbs to be cut at once.
> 
> Harry K



Harry,

Here is the post you speak of but your pictures have been replaced(?).http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=87226&highlight=sawbuck 

Can you post it up again? Always looking for an easier way to do things...

Shari


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## BlueRidgeMark (Apr 2, 2010)

Oooooookay!

So THAT's what that was! I went looking for that thread a while ago, but the pictures didn't make sense.

Leave it to a woman to spot the obvious right away, while we superior men puzzle over it! 



Harry, fix those pics, willya?


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## BluCllrSchlr (Apr 2, 2010)

Here's mine:


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## Wife'nHubby (Apr 2, 2010)

Well, I won't post pics of mine but as I said I followed BlueRidgeMark's plans & used carriage bolts w/wing nuts so I can fold it up. Oh, yes, 3' of chain at the outside bottom on two sides to control the spread of the x. Mine is just six 8 ft. 2x4's with a carriage bolt at the cross (three pair). Cross is at about 32". (I'm short!) You guys are making me feel bad - some of these examples look like furniture quality to me. I can run a chop saw & a drill - that's it. 

Hubby & I were building something else the last two days. His meds make his hands shake so much he can't handle the tools very well. He's the brains, I'm the brawn I guess. He was showing me how to use a certain tool and I said "Geez, I didn't know it worked like that!" To which he replied, "You never had to know. You know how to use makeup, I don't know how to do that." 

Anyway, back to sawbuck plans or photos - show'em if you got 'em (please).

Shari


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 3, 2010)

Wife'nHubby said:


> Harry,
> 
> Here is the post you speak of but your pictures have been replaced(?).http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=87226&highlight=sawbuck
> 
> ...



I learned the hardway that if you post pictures from photobucket _never_ delete one. It screws up all your past posts.

I tried a few minutes ago to see if those pics were still there. Havingproblems with that program refusing to load for the past few months. Will try again. If not there, I will shoot some more tomorrow.

Ah, Good! I see Aandabok's pics are still there. That is almost an exact copy of mine. I'll try for the old pics though as they show it in actual use.

Found 'em (I hope)
















I've put at least a cord of 'limbs' through it, did another pile the other day. The 2x6's are getting pretty well chewed up.

Harry K


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## BlueRidgeMark (Apr 3, 2010)

Aha, a very different approach! I cut mine right NEXT to the uprights, not at the halfway point between.


What is that wood that's loaded on it? Bark sort of like locust, but not really, and the wood has a shine to it? Is that it?

I picked up some of that this year, but don't know what it is. Burns nicely, though.


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## Philbert (Apr 3, 2010)

I agree, that most of these saw bucks look like furniture! (that’s a complement, not a dis!).

I live in the city and scrounge firewood as opportunities present themselves, so I made a fold-up saw buck out of scrap 2X4’s, scrap plywood, and a few carriage bolts. My ‘full-size’ one is larger, and has 3 ‘X’s. The one in the photo is my ‘portable’ or ‘mini-buck’ (it wasn’t buried as deep in the garage) that I can throw in the car or drag out for a few pieces to keep them off of the lawn.

Make it any size you want. I spaced them around 16” because that is the size I burn. Glue and nail/staple/sheetrock screw the plywood to the 2X4’s to keep things rigid. Keep things square and make sure that the holes line up if you want it to fold easily.

_(*Note: photos replaced with similar ones - may not be the originals)_







I like the ones made by Aandabok and turnkey4099 in the photos above, and would consider making a similar one if I was cutting a lot of firewood, especially from longer, thinner logs. In an earlier thread we discussed welding a cross piece across each set of uprights (making them more like an ‘H’) so that the logs would be held up above the base, and you could saw all the way through without hitting the two-by’s or timbers used for the base.

Philbert


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 3, 2010)

Philbert said:


> I agree, that most of these saw bucks look like furniture! (that’s a complement, not a dis!).
> 
> I live in the city and scrounge firewood as opportunities present themselves, so I made a fold-up saw buck out of scrap 2X4’s, scrap plywood, and a few carriage bolts. My ‘full-size’ one is larger, and has 3 ‘X’s. The one in the photo is my ‘portable’ or ‘mini-buck’ (it wasn’t buried as deep in the garage) that I can throw in the car or drag out for a few pieces to keep them off of the lawn.
> 
> ...


Philbert, I have only two easy suggestions to make:
(1) Increase the length of the bottom to add a couple of inches in height. Leave the cross pieces the same width.

(2) Counter bore holes about 3/8" deep for the bolts, nuts, and washers to bury them (and then use a shorter carriage bolt) so that the saw's chain can't ever hit them.


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## Philbert (Apr 3, 2010)

Wood Doctor said:


> Philbert, I have only two easy suggestions to make:
> (1) Increase the length of the bottom to add a couple of inches in height. Leave the cross pieces the same width.
> 
> (2) Counter bore holes about 3/8" deep for the bolts, nuts, and washers to bury them (and then use a shorter carriage bolt) so that the saw's chain can't ever hit them.



Good ideas. This is my 'mini-buck' - I have a larger one that puts the wood between my knee and waist height. Recessing the bolts or using 'T' nuts would also be a good idea for general use; could also use brass instead of steel. I know that the bolts are there and only cut on the outside of the legs, or directly in the middle, and the saw usually cuts through the log 3 - 4 inches above the bolts. But I am sure that if I loaned it out . . . 

Philbert


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## BlueRidgeMark (Apr 3, 2010)

Nice and handy, Philbert!  

What's that you're splitting, there. Ash? Er izzat hickory?


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 4, 2010)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> Aha, a very different approach! I cut mine right NEXT to the uprights, not at the halfway point between.
> 
> 
> What is that wood that's loaded on it? Bark sort of like locust, but not really, and the wood has a shine to it? Is that it?
> ...



Yep, it's Black Locust. I cut halfway between because my saw chains object to being near iron 

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 4, 2010)

Philbert said:


> I agree, that most of these saw bucks look like furniture! (that’s a complement, not a dis!).
> 
> <snip>
> 
> ...



I have modified mine by adding 1x4 on edge between the uprights. That gives me 5 1/2" (3 1/2" plus 1 1/2" angle iron side) between the bottom of the logs and the 2x6. Even that doesn't keep me from chewing them up. Limbs am crooked and not unusual to have them droop almost to the bottom 

Black Locust, especially smaller ones, run out to small diameter stuff fairly fast. I usually have half dozen or more lengths of "limbs" on top of each load I haul. I hate picking up small stuff in the field and then having to pick each piece up to unload it at the house.

Harry K


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## scotclayshooter (Apr 4, 2010)

Im kind of hard on the sawbench lol


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## Wife'nHubby (Apr 4, 2010)

scotclayshooter said:


> Im kind of hard on the sawbench lol




Ummm... kind of an understatement! 

Shari


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## BluCllrSchlr (Apr 4, 2010)

scotclayshooter said:


> Im kind of hard on the sawbench lol



That's what I like about the design I posted earlier. With the stretchers/rails so low, they aren't as likely to get nicked. But at the same time, I understand someone might just need to slap something together quickly--if it works, it works.


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## Nosmo (Apr 4, 2010)

Here's one that is easy to make. 

Materials 4 ea. 8 ft. - 2 x 4 (not 92-5/8" studs).
Materials 4 ea. 4" x 3/8" carriage bolts.
Materials 4 ea. 3/8" flat washers.
Materials 4 ea. 3/8" nuts for the bolts.

Materials 16 ea. 2-1/2" sheetrock screws.

Cut the 2 x 4's all 48" long. Then you can make the X's as high as you want.
I believe mine is bolted at 12" from the top. The lower you make the X the farther the legs will spread out and lower the height. If you don't tighten the carriage bolts too tight this will swing together for storage. You can space the two sets of X's in the middle any distances you would like.



[/IMG]

Nosmo


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## Philbert (Apr 4, 2010)

Nosmo's Photos:


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## Philbert (Apr 4, 2010)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> Nice and handy, Philbert!
> What's that you're splitting, there. Ash? Er izzat hickory?



It was some mostly crotch ash sections left behind by the firewood scroungers after a local tree company took one down a few blocks away. I needed something to test a chain on, and took the additional challenge of splitting the pieces left. Fiskars did really well up to a point; then it was 2 steel wedges and a sledge.

Philbert


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## scotclayshooter (Apr 4, 2010)

BluCllrSchlr said:


> That's what I like about the design I posted earlier. With the stretchers/rails so low, they aren't as likely to get nicked. But at the same time, I understand someone might just need to slap something together quickly--if it works, it works.



Hmm i think i more than "Nicked" them lol


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 4, 2010)

*Chainsaws Love to Find Steel*



scotclayshooter said:


> Hmm i think i more than "Nicked" them lol


I have noticed something when it comes to using sawbucks. If there are any steel fasteners or parts floating around, even deeply clinched nails, my chainsaw will find them and dig them out like an anteater or a warthog looking for its prey.



Anybody else noticed this syndrome?


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## BlueRidgeMark (Apr 4, 2010)

turnkey4099 said:


> Yep, it's Black Locust.



Ah, that's it. I get some honey locust once in a while. Not much black around here, but I did get some roadkill. I picked up one section that was cut off from the trunk - about 6" diameter x 30" long. Burned it this winter, because I was curious about it. I'll have to go back and snag the trunk.




turnkey4099 said:


> I cut halfway between because my saw chains object to being near iron
> 
> Harry K



 Mine does too. But it really does seem to like the treated 2x4s - it nibbles on them often enough!


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## Philbert (Apr 4, 2010)

Wood Doctor said:


> If there are any steel fasteners or parts floating around, even deeply clinched nails, my chainsaw will find them . . .



Maybe you should take your chainsaw out to the beach and look for lost coins and stuff!

It you are really concerned about hitting metal, you can use wooden dowels and construction adhesive instead of screws to pin things together, and a larger dowel or nylon screws and nuts for pivots if you are making a folding version.

Philbert


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 4, 2010)

Philbert said:


> Maybe you should take your chainsaw out to the beach and look for lost coins and stuff!
> 
> It you are really concerned about hitting metal, you can use wooden dowels and construction adhesive instead of screws to pin things together, and a larger dowel or nylon screws and nuts for pivots if you are making a folding version.
> 
> Philbert


Actually, Philbert, it was only a warning, but it is worth considering. Hidden nails, bolts, and screws may be worse than if the sawbuck was all steel to begin with. Sometimes you forget they are there. If everything visible is already steel, you never forget (I think).


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## Philbert (Apr 4, 2010)

Wood Doctor said:


> Actually, Philbert, it was only a warning, but it is worth considering. Hidden nails, bolts, and screws may be worse than if the sawbuck was all steel to begin with. Sometimes you forget they are there.



It's a valid point. Building ones like the one I made with all wood is no big deal - just takes a little more time to make.

Philbert


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## thenorth (Nov 7, 2010)

well, i decided to try and improve my bucking method....when i fell the tree, i cut it into 4' lengths, 'cause that fits the atv trailer. then haul out to the splitter...
where we buck them into 16'' one at a time.. rather dangerous, as she has to hold the wood.
so after reading this forum, i built this today, tailor made for 4' logs, it will hold 9 cubic feet at a time......





take care
john


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## Philbert (Mar 14, 2011)

*Big Brother*

This is the 'big brother' of the folding sawbuck I posted in post #19.

The oval hole is a hand-hold for carrying it when folded. That hole, and the small round one, are for loops of rope when I hang it in the garage.

Philbert


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## zipper1081 (Mar 14, 2011)

I really want to build one but I really dont know if I would use it. But I got the idea after reading this thread of building one that goes on the side of my trailer some how. Any ideas???


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