# ignition coil-aftermarket or OEm



## timfish (Aug 8, 2016)

hey ya'll new to this website--and i have a question--i have a 660 stihl-newer model i bought off an aging buddy with health issues-i think it has a bad coil--
aftermarket for 45.00
OEM for 150.00
is OEM that much better??
Please advise any help is appreciated!!


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## Stihl working hard (Aug 8, 2016)

IMHO genuine is better just remember you only get what you pay for with electronic components


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## blades (Aug 8, 2016)

Bad thing is they may both be made by the same chicom mfg. just never know now days


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## Definitive Dave (Aug 8, 2016)

Actually the good AM coil can be had for less than $25 shipped and is ever bit as good as OEM for this model, sold hundreds with zero complaints or returns.
Once they ( ignition manufacturers) get a design down a coil is a very simple device to replicate.
For many parts paying for OEM gets you better quality or better longevity or better power or some combination, but for most of the common Stihl coils there is no difference except price and perhaps superficial appearance.
Dave


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## timfish (Aug 9, 2016)

Definitive Dave said:


> Actually the good AM coil can be had for less than $25 shipped and is ever bit as good as OEM for this model, sold hundreds with zero complaints or returns.
> Once they ( ignition manufacturers) get a design down a coil is a very simple device to replicate.
> For many parts paying for OEM gets you better quality or better longevity or better power or some combination, but for most of the common Stihl coils there is no difference except price and perhaps superficial appearance.
> Dave


where /what AM coils have you used/traded/sold with success? please


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## LoveStihlQuality (Aug 10, 2016)

How have you checked for spark? 



Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk


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## timfish (Aug 11, 2016)

LoveStihlQuality said:


> How have you checked for spark?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk


I put the plug to close to ground, pulled string, BUT---and it wasnt getting spark, what i did was to learn myself how to use a multimeter and check the coil, it wasnt firing, then i checked the switch for continuity with the meter, BOOM--no continuity between the coil and the switch--dug further into the saw, found the trigger was no behing grounded properly--fixed that--saw fired UP!!!!
all in all it was a learning process and im glad i learned--never owned a stihl (always huskys, echos and jonsereds) but the kill switch seemed like a flimsy design, but i have looked into other saws' switches either--THANKS for ya'lls help


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## blades (Aug 11, 2016)

Kill switch on them all is almost Identical- just shorts coil to ground- no spark no run most of the time- now if there are some glowing carbon deposits it can continue to run like a diesel until the fuel supply is interrupted


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## timfish (Aug 11, 2016)

blades said:


> Kill switch on them all is almost Identical- just shorts coil to ground- no spark no run most of the time- now if there are some glowing carbon deposits it can continue to run like a diesel until the fuel supply is interrupted


thanks for the info--man this site and its folks are pretty cool--learning ALOT--thanks


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## LoveStihlQuality (Aug 11, 2016)

Awesome! Feel good.
Also hint in future, disconnect and tape the kill wire from coil. Helps isolate bad coil or wiring 

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## timfish (Aug 12, 2016)

LoveStihlQuality said:


> Awesome! Feel good.
> Also hint in future, disconnect and tape the kill wire from coil. Helps isolate bad coil or wiring
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk


please ,,please explain??


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## LoveStihlQuality (Aug 12, 2016)

Coil has main lead to plug. Also a small wire slip onto terminal (sometimes has a little locking tab in center that need to depress with a pick) Disconnecting this isolates the coil without any wiring to switch. If spark only this way, coil good but wiring issue. For clearer explanation, check YouTube "chainsaw ignition test " Used this to confirm bad coil on my ms 362 and confirm good coil on my 046 

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## timfish (Aug 12, 2016)

thanks!!!!


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