# Chainsaw Tuning 101



## blsnelling (Jan 21, 2014)

I thought I'd try and compile all the threads and vids I've done showing how to tune a chainsaw.

Tuning a 3120 with an adjustable carb.


Demonstrating a MS440 tuned a little too rich, then leaning it out.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/video-how-to-tune-a-chainsaw.113538/

Checking the H tune on a 350, 4-stroking at WOT.


Checking the tune in the wood on the same 350.


Checking the tune in the wood with a 346XP.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/checking-your-tune-in-the-wood.154314/


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## demc570 (Jan 21, 2014)

a+.........thanks nice work,thank you


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## SCHallenger (Jan 21, 2014)

It's always good to go over this stuff & "refresh our ears". Posts like this from a master of tuning are music. Thanks Brad!


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## fuzz1500 (Jan 21, 2014)

Perfect vids ! Makes it very easy to understand  Thanks for them !


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## Raganr (Jan 21, 2014)

Great videos. I would like to see one where you start from scratch on a rebuilt carb and do all three adjustments.


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## Ozhoo (Jan 21, 2014)

Great job. The best take-away that people can get from this is learn how engines SHOULD react when you adjust a carb. If it doesn't react as it should, then STOP and figure out what's going on.


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## The Ripper (Jan 21, 2014)

Ran all vids at same time, really couldn't get a heads up with all the noise 

Good stuff though!


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## KingDavey (Jan 21, 2014)

This is something I've always been confused about. I set my saws to "just" clean up when they have a freshly sharpened chain and are self feeding. But I always wondered if they were lean when pushing on them? Never had scoring, but more power(leaner) is always better. Thank you Carb Control/Autotune/M-tronic.


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## mr.finn (Jan 21, 2014)

very helpfull Brad, thanks for posting.


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## LowVolt (Jan 21, 2014)

Looks like someone is trying to rebuild AS to its former glory.


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## blsnelling (Jan 22, 2014)

Tuning is always a topic so thought I'd put it all together in one easy to find source.


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## Hinerman (Jan 22, 2014)

The 346 sounds like it is on the edge....am I correct? By that I mean maxed out RPM on he high side.


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## Adirondackstihl (Jan 22, 2014)

Hope it's okay if I put Mitch's vid up too


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 22, 2014)

Hinerman said:


> The 346 sounds like it is on the edge....am I correct? By that I mean maxed out RPM on he high side.



Thats the way a 346 likes to run.


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## blsnelling (Jan 22, 2014)

Hinerman said:


> The 346 sounds like it is on the edge....am I correct? By that I mean maxed out RPM on he high side.


It's still 4-stroking and is fine there. However, if going out for a day of cutting, I would richen it up so as to not have worry about it going lean.


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## Hinerman (Jan 22, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> Thats the way a 346 likes to run.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Autotune Carb


 
HA, I will have a 346 some day. I am not great at tuning so I am paranoid about it. I like to hear my saw burble a time or 2 in the cut,,,then I know I am not too lean. As I get more comfortable with tuning a saw I will feel better about getting max RPMs.


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## Duane(Pa) (Jan 22, 2014)

Err on the rich side and your saws will live a long time. Err on the lean side and you will be looking for parts suppliers and advice on tearing down your engine, cleaning off aluminum transfer etc. Remember, cold air contains more oxygen and requires more fuel to stay in tune. CCW on the H screw.


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## Coldfront (Jan 22, 2014)

How do I know if my 372xp has a limiting coil? And if it does what difference does it make if my saw is not modified? Does the limited coil make it sound like it is 4 stroking at 13500rpm? without runing a little fat?


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## blsnelling (Jan 22, 2014)

Limited husky coils are blue, unlimited ones are black. When on the rev limiter it does sound similar to 4-stroking, making it more difficult and dangerous to tune a limited saw at WOT. You must tune them in the wood. Even them it can be a pain.


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## hardpan (Jan 22, 2014)

Very important video collection. Thanks Brad.


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## nnero (Jan 22, 2014)

Thanks for the great info. I have a noob question. I just did a muffler mod on my 029 super. This is my first time trying to tune a chainsaw with no help from anyone in person. How do I tell if it has a limited coil or not? Also, it seems like the main idle adjustment doesnt do anything. Thanks


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## blsnelling (Jan 22, 2014)

The 029 is unlimited.


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## nomad_archer (Jan 22, 2014)

Thanks brad. I have never touched anything but the idle screw on my ms271 since it came from the dealer. I may have to see if I can try to apply anything in these videos to what it sounds like the saw is doing next time out. Everything seems to be in tune as far as I can tell but it may very well have the factory presets still.


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## Coldfront (Jan 22, 2014)

Thanks to these video's I was able to tune my 372xp I am pretty sure it has a limiting coil but it is not that hard to do cutting into wood on my log pile. I looked at Baileys they are out of stock on the non limited, but why waste my money when it really isn't that hard to do while cutting into a log. I just kept turning the high screw out until I could really hear the 4 stroking during cut when I let up, then I screw back it a little bit once I know what to listen for until I had it just right. It has been below zero here and I don't want it running too lean. I have been burning through wood almost as fast as I can cut it this winter.


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## naturelover (Jan 22, 2014)

For me, the best way to learn was to tune one wayyy rich, just to see what it sounded like. Then back it off till it quit with that sound when under load. 

Now I can hear it easily, even listen for it on other peoples saws when they are running them. 

Mine are always tuned rich though, I was a few hundreds rich on the stock Quake and 500 when I eventually did tach them. Eh, not really trying to get them on the ragged edge anyway, and the synthetic oils seem to control the carbon. 


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk


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## groundup (Jan 22, 2014)

I'll be honest, I struggle to hear the 4 stroking. I search these treads and try to understand the different sounds but really can't. I rely on a tach to set my my H end.


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## blsnelling (Jan 22, 2014)

naturelover said:


> For me, the best way to learn was to tune one wayyy rich, just to see what it sounded like. Then back it off till it quit with that sound when under load.
> 
> Now I can hear it easily, even listen for it on other peoples saws when they are running them.


That's the best way to do it. I tell people to take it way rich, then slowly lean it out 1/8 turn at a time until it runs clean in the cut. Once you get real close, even 1/8 turn can be a lot.


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## C SAW 090 (Jan 22, 2014)

Are the green ones limited?


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## LowVolt (Jan 22, 2014)

groundup said:


> I'll be honest, I struggle to hear the 4 stroking. I search these treads and try to understand the different sounds but really can't. I rely on a tach to set my my H end.



Sounds weird but try wearing ear plugs or some form of hearing protection. It kind of cuts out the whole loudness of the saw and let's you hear the difference in tone of the exhaust when 4 stroking and cleaning up in the cut.


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## Hinerman (Jan 22, 2014)

groundup said:


> I'll be honest, I struggle to hear the 4 stroking. I search these treads and try to understand the different sounds but really can't. I rely on a tach to set my my H end.





LowVolt said:


> Sounds weird but try wearing ear plugs or some form of hearing protection. It kind of cuts out the whole loudness of the saw and let's you hear the difference in tone of the exhaust when 4 stroking and cleaning up in the cut.



Another strange thing to try is let somebody else run it wide open throttle and you listen from a close distance....It works for me.


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## husqvarnaxpman (Jan 23, 2014)

Vey nice video's. Planning on muffler mod my 346xp this weekend and was wondering where to start my H and L needles before I start the saw. I was told H 1/4 turn out to start with but I was looking for an expert's advice. These video's are gonna come in handy.


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## ft. churchill (Jan 23, 2014)

Thanks Brad for posting up this great info. These videos are how I learned to tune correctly several years ago. One of the new folks was asking and I sent him to your vids.


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## blsnelling (Jan 24, 2014)

husqvarnaxpman said:


> Vey nice video's. Planning on muffler mod my 346xp this weekend and was wondering where to start my H and L needles before I start the saw. I was told H 1/4 turn out to start with but I was looking for an expert's advice. These video's are gonna come in handy.


1/4 will be fine for a starting point. Note: I have found the 346 to lean out far more than most saws when it's fully warmed up.


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## Chris-PA (Jan 24, 2014)

With some muffler designs it can be very hard to hear the 4-stroking misfire. The little RedMax mufflers are one example - you can hear it but it's not very distinct.


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## Coldfront (Jan 24, 2014)

I played around with the saw again today and tried it with the foam ear plugs, they really do make it easier to hear the 4 stroking. Today it was running a little to rich, when I adjusted it the first time it was minus -5f outside, today when I tested it again and it was running a bit rich it was +25f out. can the cold air make that big of a difference? I am normally not cutting in below zero temps. but this winter has been a bear. I can hardly keep ahead with my daily firewood, so I sometimes need to cut no matter how cold it is out.


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## Chris-PA (Jan 24, 2014)

Cold air contains more oxygen molecules for a given volume, so it makes the mixture leaner, not richer.


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## Coldfront (Jan 24, 2014)

Chris-PA said:


> Cold air contains more oxygen molecules for a given volume, so it makes the mixture leaner, not richer.


Right, that is why it was running rich today when it was about 30 degree's warmer out than when I adjusted it the first time when it was -5f out. But is it really necessary to re adjust all the time? Before I never touched it for years cutting from summer to winter.


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## Chris-PA (Jan 24, 2014)

Coldfront said:


> Right, that is why it was running rich today when it was about 30 degree's warmer out than when I adjusted it the first time when it was -5f out. But is it really necessary to re adjust all the time? Before I never touched it for years cutting from summer to winter.


Oh, I mis-read it. 30DegF is a pretty big difference. If it is always rich then it is at least safe, but you are giving power away and wasting fuel. If you want to keep it tuned closer to correct then adjusting will be required more often.


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## Coldfront (Jan 24, 2014)

Well as I get better at tuning I will be adjusting from now on summer to winter. What scares me is running to lean when it is really cold out below zero.


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## z71mike (Jan 25, 2014)

Coldfront said:


> But is it really necessary to re adjust all the time? Before I never touched it for years cutting from summer to winter.


I tune every time I cut. Takes 10 seconds to guarantee I don't get a lean seizure.


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## Stormy (Mar 10, 2014)

blsnelling said:


> 1/4 will be fine for a starting point. Note: I have found the 346 to lean out far more than most saws when it's fully warmed up.



Thanks Brad and Adirondack. I thought Adirondack did a nice job showing the differences b/t the limited and unlimited coils, and I like his YouTube page (mweba?). Like Brad's page, too...even helped us fix our fish tank trouble. Go figure. 

Seems our 445 leans out quite a bit the more it warms up. Got a tiny tach cuz I wasn't able to hear what I needed, but the videos, and more time in the cut, have me listening and hearing much better now. Most significantly, the transition from cut to release is maybe a note or two difference, rather than half the musical scale where it starts to whine/scream. Now I'm ready to tune every time out, and feel much better breakin in our 365. Also knew tuning was important cuz we're going 40:1 rather than 50:1. Thanks again.


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## Matt_M (Aug 20, 2014)

Excellent information.

Great contribution. Thank you.


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## Adirondackstihl (Aug 20, 2014)

Do not confuse me with Mitch Weber (mweba).
I wish I knew 1/2 what Mitch does.

I am better looking anyway...


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## paylesspizzaman (Jan 1, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> I thought I'd try and compile all the threads and vids I've done showing how to tune a chainsaw.
> 
> Tuning a 3120 with an adjustable carb.
> 
> ...



Awesome video, thanks for posting it up!


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## paylesspizzaman (Jan 1, 2015)

Adirondackstihl said:


> Hope it's okay if I put Mitch's vid up too



This is an awesome video also, Thanks for posting it up!


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## Bluefish (Jul 21, 2015)

Bumpin' a great thread...
Russ


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## Andyshine77 (Jul 21, 2015)




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## Rockfarmer (Jul 22, 2015)

Excellent vids! Thanks as always. Pretty soon the government will control our saws and they'll all be fuel injected with catylitic converters. No tuning allowed. Does anyone know if the Stihl 076 coils with the red top and no trigger made in Brazil are limited? Thank you.


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## Bluefish (Jul 22, 2015)

Andyshine77 said:


>



Another great one, thanks man!
Russ


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## SCHallenger (Jul 22, 2015)

Very clearly & nicely done! Explaining as you were going along will be a great aid for many who are still a little uneasy about the procedure. I really liked the advice to "go slowly" with the adjustments & check each change with your ears & hands.


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## hardpan (Jul 22, 2015)

Limited coils. It seems like the safest way to tune would be with a tach and set H a little below the limit level or do we just add the price of an unlimited coil or tach to the new price of a saw that is manufactured with a limited coil? I have a real tuff time hearing the difference between 4-stroking and the limited coil kicking in on some saws.


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## gunnusmc03 (Jul 22, 2015)

Sometimes an unlimited coil isn't an option. Best bet is to start pig rich and tune in the cut and until it cleans up.


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## Ronaldo (Jul 22, 2015)

gunnusmc03 said:


> Sometimes an unlimited coil isn't an option. Best bet is to start pig rich and tune in the cut and until it cleans up.


Best method right here.^


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## HusqyStihl (Jul 23, 2015)

Figured maybe i could ask here, ive been working on rebuilding a fried 261 into a 262xp. Flat top Meteor, muff mod and seems to run just fine with the 261 clutch. Been looking to upgrade to the HD-87 carb eventually when i find one.

Problem i got is i can't make the carb happy no matter how many times i start from scratch. I can tune it to perfect when idling, blipping the throttle, WOT, but in the wood it lasts maybe 2-3 minutes before it starts to seem like its bogging then running out of fuel. As far as i know it could be the original carb (saved it from a guy who was gonna dumpster it after straight gassing it). Prior owner had went ahead with the flat top then his buddy borrowed it and gassed it. 

Everything is fine until i hits wood. Am i missing something simple here and start with a carb rebuild or replacement? Everything else is new, fuel lines, fuel and air filters, plug and gap, decomp valve, b&c... 

Gotta be the carb messing with me huh.. Never had this problem with any other saw. Always been able to tune em just fine. Id rather just wait till i find an 87 if im gonna be monkeyin with any carb build...


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## blsnelling (Jul 23, 2015)

Sounds like a bad tank vent.


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## HusqyStihl (Jul 23, 2015)

Well i'll have to order one up then, Thanks bud! Should i be listening for a hissing or suction sound when i open the fuel tank? I didnt hear one yesterday but i might as well replace anything i can that i don't know the history of.

~Moose


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## cedarshark (Jul 23, 2015)

When tuning, does the size of wood(load on the saw) have any bearing on the procedure ?


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## Vizionary (Jul 23, 2015)

cedarshark said:


> When tuning, does the size of wood(load on the saw) have any bearing on the procedure ?


They always told me you have to let it fourstroke when there is no load on the saw, but when you start to saw in the wood it should clean up. Correct me if i'm wrong?

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## Nitroman (Jul 23, 2015)

Duane(Pa) said:


> Err on the rich side and your saws will live a long time. Err on the lean side and you will be looking for parts suppliers and advice on tearing down your engine, cleaning off aluminum transfer etc. Remember, cold air contains more oxygen and requires more fuel to stay in tune. CCW on the H screw.


 
A big deal when cutting towards the end of winter. You could start the day crispy cold and as the day warms up lose power while going rich. Tune saw for warm temps, go out the next day when crispy? Always start the day with a tune unless temps are the same; it'll keep your saw happy.


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## president (Jul 23, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> I thought I'd try and compile all the threads and vids I've done showing how to tune a chainsaw.
> 
> Tuning a 3120 with an adjustable carb.
> 
> ...



thanks Randy for the usefull summary


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## president (Jul 23, 2015)

president said:


> thanks Randy for the usefull summary


woops sorry brad ,yer both experts I follow


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## Duane(Pa) (Jul 23, 2015)

HusqyStihl said:


> Figured maybe i could ask here, ive been working on rebuilding a fried 261 into a 262xp. Flat top Meteor, muff mod and seems to run just fine with the 261 clutch. Been looking to upgrade to the HD-87 carb eventually when i find one.
> 
> Problem i got is i can't make the carb happy no matter how many times i start from scratch. I can tune it to perfect when idling, blipping the throttle, WOT, but in the wood it lasts maybe 2-3 minutes before it starts to seem like its bogging then running out of fuel. As far as i know it could be the original carb (saved it from a guy who was gonna dumpster it after straight gassing it). Prior owner had went ahead with the flat top then his buddy borrowed it and gassed it.
> 
> ...


Good call from Brad. I had a 372 doing the same thing. It was worse right after a fill up, not as much air space in the tank. It would have "moments of glory" as it leaned out right before starvation set in  Glad I didn't mess it up. I knew better than to keep running a saw with issues....


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## Vizionary (Jul 24, 2015)

Hmm the half choke or half throttle position (or how you want to call it) doesn't work anymore. It doesn't open up enough. Read a lot what the problems could be, but can't fix it. It is a stihl ms240. Any suggestions? It is a mechanical problem, saw runs good.

Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk


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## HusqyStihl (Jul 24, 2015)

Duane(Pa) said:


> Good call from Brad. I had a 372 doing the same thing. It was worse right after a fill up, not as much air space in the tank. It would have "moments of glory" as it leaned out right before starvation set in  Glad I didn't mess it up. I knew better than to keep running a saw with issues....



Luckily it only happen twice so far, first time i figured "crap, walked all the way out to the wood to cut and didn't fuel her up", walked back, found it had fuel in it but not much so i was scratchin my head. Topped everything off and started right up and ran fine. Idled all the way back to the wood, rev'd fine, WOT fine then a minute into the cut and it crapped again. Not gonna run it again until i get a valve in it for reassurance. Sounded the same as you just described! Thank again!

~Moose


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## Vizionary (Jul 27, 2015)

Hmm have some problems with my husqvarna T435. It starts good, and idlrs good. When you rev it up it goes very good. Also when you saw it also goes very well. I pruned a whole tree and has plenty of power. But when it is on idle and you hit the throttle 3 or 4 times in a row it just dies. What can cause this? I was thinking about the L screw? 

I also have a video if you don't understand what i mean.

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## VinceGU05 (Jul 27, 2015)

A tad rich I would say.

Edit: definitely too rich on the L. Screw it in 1/8 of a turn and try again. And repeat. 
If it flat spots, it's too lean [emoji106]


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## Vizionary (Jul 27, 2015)

https://vid.me/Xr8C here is the video 

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## Vizionary (Jul 28, 2015)

VinceGU05 said:


> A tad rich I would say.
> 
> Edit: definitely too rich on the L. Screw it in 1/8 of a turn and try again. And repeat.
> If it flat spots, it's too lean [emoji106]


Is it possible that one of the symptoms of running it too rich that the muffler is full of oil? I use Aspen 2 stroke mix.

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## VinceGU05 (Jul 28, 2015)

It will burn out if tuned right and you use it a fair bit to get some heat into it.


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## DrewUth (Sep 28, 2015)

In my experience, tuning the H is fairly easy; its the Low speed that I fiddle with the most. For example, I want the saw to respond promptly when I whack the trigger open; too lean and it will bog, to rich and it will blubber and slowly clean out. On the flip side however, after I chop the throttle from wide open, occasionally my saw will stall, which is pretty frustrating. I richened it up, but then I have to fiddle with idle settings to get it to idle properly. Thoughts? Clean air filter of course, good fuel mix, etc.

Does anyone still read plugs? I grew up racing two stroke dirtbikes, and a plug reading was always key, but its tricky to read for High and for Low.


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## NewShockerGuy (Sep 28, 2015)

Great thread!!

I am in the process of tuning my echo cs-370. I noticed that it starts right up. I have de-catted the muffler, opened the exhaust port and now need to adjust accordingly.

For the low side I noticed that when I adjust either lean/rich, I can make the saw dance more on the ground... meaning it will vibrate a lot more, OR I can adjust the low side to where it doesn't dance on the floor. Is there a preferred method or just adjust the low side according to the throttle response and make sure it's instant, but not continuing to spin the chain after I let go of the trigger... IE: It should not turn the chain without throttle. And after I let go it should come to a stop rather quickly and not spin down...

High side I am making a little rich, but it's very difficult for me to hear the 4-stroking and or burrble... I am cutting into wood but natually when I let off of cutting it changes in pitch, but I can't tell if it's good pitch or bad pitch. I doesn't scream like it's too rich in the one video but it also doesn't burrble... so I should make it slightly richer?

Thanks!

-Nigel


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## blsnelling (Sep 28, 2015)

Always err on the safe side and go richer. Then slowly lean it out until it cleans up in the cut.


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## nomad_archer (Sep 28, 2015)

Nigel - The second video in the first post is the best one to hear the 4 stroking as a result of being too rich. If you arent hearing the 4 stroking go richer until you do. It Doesn't hurt to go way rich and slowly lean it out until it cleans up in the cut.

For the low side adjust for good throttle response and that the chain comes to a stop when you let off the throttle. Use the idle adjustment to smooth out the idle and to keep the chain from rotating on idle.


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## NewShockerGuy (Sep 28, 2015)

Thanks for all the info!

Let me update as I just got back from the woods.

I started it out on the high side RICH... Meaning when I gave it full throttle it would garble and almost die. I guess this is TOO right, yes? So I started backing it out slowly. Each time slowly adjusting and listening. One thing I am not sure about and I didn't see it covered in here. What does it mean when I am cutting the wood probably 8" in diameter, and after I am done with the cut and bring it back up as if I am normally resting it dies. Still too rich? It did NOT do this everytime, just once in a while..It did this to me a couple times right after it was done cutting. I could however pull the rope and it started back up no issue.

Thanks,
-Nigel


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## nomad_archer (Sep 29, 2015)

Nigel I'm not sure what the cause could be. You may want to create a new separate thread. You will get more response's to your question.


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## Nitroman (Sep 29, 2015)

DrewUth said:


> In my experience, tuning the H is fairly easy; its the Low speed that I fiddle with the most. For example, I want the saw to respond promptly when I whack the trigger open; too lean and it will bog, to rich and it will blubber and slowly clean out. On the flip side however, after I chop the throttle from wide open, occasionally my saw will stall, which is pretty frustrating. I richened it up, but then I have to fiddle with idle settings to get it to idle properly. Thoughts? Clean air filter of course, good fuel mix, etc.
> 
> *Does anyone still read plugs? I grew up racing two stroke dirtbikes, and a plug reading was always key, but its tricky to read for High and for Low*.



I do! Also super important is to read the wash on the piston top. The plug will tell you quickly how things are, but if you really want a fine-tune then you have-to-have your saw completely and thoroughly warmed, then run it in the wood at least 45-60 seconds at the appropriate rpm's then shut it off using the kill switch. Let it cool then look at the top of the piston. It should be black, somewhat "dry" in appearance, with scallops at the transfers where the incoming mix has "washed" the carbon off. You can Google for photos.
If it gets too hot, like right before you are going to burn something, you'll see what appear to be bright shiny specks on the piston dome. Those are droplets of melted aluminum coming from the top of the piston or combustion chamber; you are at the ragged edge.
I spent almost a whole winter season trying to wring out a Holtzman ATACC on my '99 XCR 800 before I gave up on the ATACC and removed it. Called Holtzman and they told me the product doesn't work very well on flat-slide carbs!


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## blsnelling (Feb 27, 2016)

Here's a video I made this afternoon demonstrating how to tune a chainsaw that has a rev limited ignition coil. On a saw like this, you can tune these by ear listening for it to 4-stoke. The rev limited kicks in before it gets to that RPM. It's very difficult to tell if your hearing the rev limited kick in or it it's 4-stroking. This is how you do it.


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## stihlaficionado (Feb 27, 2016)

blsnelling said:


> Here's a new video I made this afternoon on tuning a rev limited chainsaw.



I see Spring has Sprung in Franklin, Oh.

That saw can't be stock


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## blsnelling (Feb 27, 2016)

stihlaficionado said:


> I see Spring has Sprung in Franklin, Oh.
> 
> That saw can't be stock


Not stock


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## stihlaficionado (Feb 27, 2016)

Sounds really good


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## hardpan (Feb 28, 2016)

Good one Brad


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## Striven82 (Jul 28, 2016)

This needs to be a "Sticky."


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## Kyler Monares (Sep 14, 2016)

Subscribed!
Just picked up an MS461R


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## blsnelling (Sep 14, 2016)

Kyler Monares said:


> Subscribed!
> Just picked up an MS461R


FYI, the 461 has a rev limiter.


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## Kyler Monares (Sep 14, 2016)

Thanks for the info.
I'll be sure and keep it off lean at wot. What is the rev limit rpm? Stihl EDT 8 should be here in a few days


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## blsnelling (Sep 14, 2016)

Kyler Monares said:


> Thanks for the info.
> I'll be sure and keep it off lean at wot. What is the rev limit rpm? Stihl EDT 8 should be here in a few days


I'm not sure. Just take it noticeably rich and then slowly lean it out until it time clean in the cut when hot.


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## Kyler Monares (Sep 14, 2016)

Cool thanks brad! I'm also going to order a dual port muffler for it tomorrow and open up the port under the deflector. Is that opening it up to much and I should only do one or the other?

Not worried about extended warranty with this saw. Stihl doesn't offer it anymore!!!!


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## blsnelling (Sep 14, 2016)

Kyler Monares said:


> Cool thanks brad! I'm also going to order a dual port muffler for it tomorrow and open up the port under the deflector. Is that opening it up to much and I should only do one or the other?


Sounds perfect.


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## SAWMIKAZE (Sep 14, 2016)

Kyler Monares said:


> Subscribed!
> Just picked up an MS461R



Get a 460 coil.


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## Kyler Monares (Sep 14, 2016)

SAWMIKAZE said:


> Get a 460 coil.


$170 a pop from baileys?. I'll see what my dealer will try to charge me for one tomorrow when I order the DP cover.
HL supply has a coil for $30
Does the part number 0000 400 1300 sound right?


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## blsnelling (Sep 14, 2016)

No. Buy a used OEM off eBay. They're plentiful.


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## briantutt (Oct 11, 2016)

bump

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## briantutt (Oct 15, 2016)

blsnelling said:


> I thought I'd try and compile all the threads and vids I've done showing how to tune a chainsaw.
> 
> Tuning a 3120 with an adjustable carb.
> 
> ...



+1, thanks for all of those videos. Now to go after a couple of mine that I am frustrated with. 

Brian


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## briantutt (Oct 15, 2016)

162 is now putting a smile on my face! Those videos really helped.

Brian


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## Kensie1988 (Oct 20, 2016)

Would it be possible for me to email someone a short video of my old Homelight SXL? I just retuned the carb and I am new at this and want to make sure it's not running too lean or too rich.


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## briantutt (Oct 20, 2016)

Kensie1988 said:


> Would it be possible for me to email someone a short video of my old Homelight SXL? I just retuned the carb and I am new at this and want to make sure it's not running too lean or too rich.


post it right here I think 

Brian


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## blsnelling (Oct 20, 2016)

Sure, post it here.


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## Kensie1988 (Oct 20, 2016)

Here it is, I had it running a little leaner right before this video, but I fattened it up just a tad because I felt like it was too much on the edge. It still may be too lean, it's hard for me to tell.

Hopefully the video will play.


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## blsnelling (Oct 20, 2016)

Unless it leans out a lot as it gets hot, you're not too lean. For best results, you now need to fine tun it in the cut.


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## Kensie1988 (Oct 20, 2016)

blsnelling said:


> Unless it leans out a lot as it gets hot, you're not too lean. For best results, you now need to fine tun it in the cut.



Awesome, good to hear! Next time I get it in some wood I will try and fine tune it a bit. In your opinion how close to the edge do think it is, I know you said you would need to hear how lean it gets under load, but I just trying to get an idea of how much wiggle room i have.


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## blsnelling (Oct 20, 2016)

Doesn't sound close at all.


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## doubletrouble (Jan 18, 2017)

Not to wake up a quiet thread but I have a tuning question. I have a Mac 10-10 and I don't know for sure if it is a limited Rev coil. It still the stock points ignition system. Also, while I get how you guys all tune in the cut but on the Mac I can't get to the carb screws unless the air filter is removed. Any suggestions here? If I bench tune it, will adding the air filter then change the tune? Thanks....


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## psjwi (Jan 19, 2017)

As long as this has been bumped, I also have a question...

The acceleration on those saws in Brad's sample videos is amazing! 
Should a saw that only has a MM be able to attain that type of acceleration (when adjusted properly) or is it the modifications that had most likely been done to the saws that account for it?

I don't have trouble setting the high speed jet to clear up in the cut but I'm not sure that I know the correct procedure to optimize the acceleration - (even if it's not as quick as those in the video)

Thanks.
Paul


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## SeMoTony (Jan 19, 2017)

psjwi said:


> As long as this has been bumped, I also have a question...
> 
> The acceleration on those saws in Brad's sample videos is amazing!
> Should a saw that only has a MM be able to attain that type of acceleration (when adjusted properly) or is it the modifications that had most likely been done to the saws that account for it?
> ...


When Brad breathes on the inside of a chainsaw ,the EPA deamons are driven out never to return! In their place breathing is opened up ,timing may be advanced, compression may be greater and yeah muffler mod has occurred . Just MM'd with correct tuning will assist saw to operate better, but not like an all out worksaw


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## blsnelling (Jan 19, 2017)

These saws were all modded.


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## psjwi (Jan 19, 2017)

Okay, so I can forget about achiving that type of instant acceleration- but is there a standard procedure to follow to make sure my saws are adjusted as best as possible in regard to that one aspect or is just a matter of trial and error adjusting the low speed jet and idle stop?

I see that Madsen's has instructions here... http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm

I'll give that a shot and see if I get any improvement.

Thanks,
Paul


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## doubletrouble (Jan 19, 2017)

Why is it that Everytime I read a post about working on a saw I want to go out and tinker with mine?


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## Chris-PA (Jan 20, 2017)

I thought I was pretty decent at tuning a chainsaw, but after watching these guys I realize how much I have to learn. They obviously know what they're doing given the advanced techniques they use at the end of the video:


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## Marshy (Jan 20, 2017)

Chris-PA said:


> I thought I was pretty decent at tuning a chainsaw, but after watching these guys I realize how much I have to learn. They obviously know what they're doing given the advanced techniques they use at the end of the video:


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## grizz55chev (Jan 20, 2017)

Chris-PA said:


> I thought I was pretty decent at tuning a chainsaw, but after watching these guys I realize how much I have to learn. They obviously know what they're doing given the advanced techniques they use at the end of the video:



Turned it off at 2:00, couldn't stand it.


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## Chris-PA (Jan 20, 2017)

grizz55chev said:


> Turned it off at 2:00, couldn't stand it.


You missed the fine saw handling at the end! I wish I spoke the language - I feel I may have missed some important tuning tips.


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## doubletrouble (Jan 20, 2017)

OMG, I could almost hear the saw crying for mercy! At one point I thought he was going to use it as a trencher! I may not know everything but wow! I feel smarter now. Lol


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## Chris-PA (Jan 20, 2017)

doubletrouble said:


> OMG, I could almost hear the saw crying for mercy! At one point I thought he was going to use it as a trencher! I may not know everything but wow! I feel smarter now. Lol


I used Google Translate and I'm pretty sure he said that the final tune must be done with the bar tip fully below ground. I'm going to try that tomorrow.


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## doubletrouble (Jan 20, 2017)

Report back with your results please!


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## LonestarStihl (Jan 20, 2017)

I enjoyed his buddy who helped hold the saw to the ground so it didn't jump up and sacrificed his foot to hold the wood from moving as well.


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## bulletpruf (Jan 21, 2017)

Subscribed...


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