# Seasoning/breaking in a new stove



## USMC0802 (Sep 5, 2010)

We replaced our old cast iron stove that was at least 25-30 years old and cracked this summer with a Hearthstone Mansfield. Never had a soapstone stove before, but the plan is to light a fire once it's cool/cold enough and burn until it's warm again.

This is what's in the manual:


> BREAKING IN YOUR WOOD STOVE
> It is imperative that your stove be "broken in" slowly.
> Cast iron must be "seasoned"; over-firing a new stove
> may cause castings to crack or may damage other stove
> ...



Last night was in the 50s, the forecast tonight is 49. I don't expect to need to burn regularly for at least another month or so, but the dealer told me it's a good idea to do three "break in" fires before getting it going for the season.

I prefer something a little more specific, like a temperature, as opposed to "warm to the touch, but not hot."

Also, I've read these stoves can take quite a while to warm up. Any ideas on what that magical break in temp is and how long I should plan on playing with the stove to get it there?

With the temps dropping into the 40s, I know I'm not going to heat the house with a break in fire, but I thought tonight would be as good as any to start that process.

Thanks for the input and advice. Anyone else have a Mansfield? How do you like it?


----------



## laynes69 (Sep 5, 2010)

Theres alot of people on ********** that have those stoves and love them. If you can't find much here, I would check over there.


----------



## Billy_Bob (Sep 5, 2010)

New stoves and pipes will "stink" with the first few fires. So good idea to light a couple of small fires when it is still warm enough to open the doors/windows to get the stink out of the house.

And I have to clean my chimney from the living room due to my 45 degree steep slope roof and very high chimney. So I take apart the stove pipe, clean, then when I put it back together, I use high temp sealer on the joints. Also touch up the paint and put a bit of stove black on the stove...

That all stinks with the first couple of fires. So again I start a couple of small fires when it is still warm and can air out the stink. (After a few fires, no stink...)


----------



## stint (Sep 5, 2010)

Using the manufacturer's recommended 'warm/not hot' recommendation;

Sounds like you have a stove thermometer.

If so, I would start the fire as directed, then as it burns place my hand on the stove top spot recommended for your thermo (Jotul says outer corner)

As long as you can hold your hand there, that to me is "warm"

If your hand start to feel uncomfortably warm, start reducing draft and wood supply.
Just before you feel are about ready to have to remove it, immediately close down draft and note what the thermo reads

Use this as max for next couple fires. That to me is just below 'hot'

I Do not think plus or minus up even as much to 50 degrees is as important as doing it three or more times and let fully cool between fires

Whatever, just do not "overfire" by a couple hundred degrees the first several uses

Hope this helps


----------



## CWME (Sep 5, 2010)

I fired my new stove out in the yard twice before I brought it into the house. I just used some stove pipe for a stack. My Dad and I treated it like a camp fireopcorn: 
Burned off all the solvents and cured the paint outside. My Father in Law cured one in an apartment I had to stay in that night. Not fun with the stink and smoke.


----------



## iowawoodcutter (Sep 5, 2010)

When I bought my Hampton H300 cast iron I had the store burn it in for me. At first they said they don't do that, and I replied I ain't buyin it unless you do. Left the store w/o the stove and they called two days later and said they would do it for me if I still wanted to buy it.


----------



## iowawoodcutter (Sep 5, 2010)

TreeCo said:


> I don't know how true it is but I've heard that cast iron stoves can absorb moisture over the summer and should be 'broken in' each fall. Every fall my Jotul Firelight gets several small fires before being fired hard. It also emits a slight odor during these small fall fires.....but it could just be summer dust burning off.
> 
> A neat thing about a new stove is each time you reach a new high temperature during that first heating season.....you will get a slight hint of those first 'break in' fires. Maybe it's just the paint curing a little further down the stove legs. LOL!
> 
> For those that haven't experience the joy of 'top down fire starting' you ought to look into it. It's the only way to start a fire, IMO.



I have tried the top down with moderate success. Sometime they result in a backdraft for me filling my basement with smoke. I just used those small prepackaged fire bricks now. They never fail to get the draft going for me.


----------



## USMC0802 (Sep 5, 2010)

Started the first break-in fire this evening. Didn't get a stink or smoke or anything at all. 

Everything ready:






Kindling lit:





Watching it burn a bit before closing the air control and letting it burn out.





Too short tonight. This is my first stove with a glass door. I'm really looking forward to loading this thing up and enjoying the view and the heat. I'm impressed that it didn't take much at all to get the stove warmed up. Granted, the house is in the 70s right now, but I'm looking forward to getting a thermometer on it and in the flue and seeing how quickly it warms up and throws the heat.

Thanks for the tips and suggestions.


----------



## BlueRidgeMark (Sep 5, 2010)

TreeCo said:


> For those that haven't experience the joy of 'top down fire starting' you ought to look into it. It's the only way to start a fire, IMO.





:agree2:


I'm a recent convert to top down burning. I get longer burns, at higher temps, which cuts down the creosote buildup. My stove is oversized for the house, so to keep from roasting us out, I have kept it damped down tight, which makes for a messy chimney.

With top down burning, I can open up the draft, get hotter and smaller fires from a full load, and keep my chimney much cleaner. The side benefit is we aren't roasted and I get longer burn times. I've hit 14 hours doing it this way.


----------



## amateur cutter (Sep 5, 2010)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> :agree2:
> 
> 
> I'm a recent convert to top down burning. I get longer burns, at higher temps, which cuts down the creosote buildup. My stove is oversized for the house, so to keep from roasting us out, I have kept it damped down tight, which makes for a messy chimney.
> ...



Hey Mark, would the top down burn work in a furnace as well as the stove in your opinion? I read a little on it last spring, but was about done burning by the time i found a thread on it. A C


----------



## amateur cutter (Sep 5, 2010)

Nice lookin new stove USMC, looking forward to a little wood heat soon myself. A C


----------



## laynes69 (Sep 5, 2010)

I use top down on our woodfurnace. It heats the tubes, baffle, creates instant draft and burns with little to no smoke. A good top down fire will burn for a couple hours before tending. Works everytime.


----------



## cat-face timber (Sep 5, 2010)

CWME said:


> I fired my new stove out in the yard twice before I brought it into the house. I just used some stove pipe for a stack. My Dad and I treated it like a camp fireopcorn:
> Burned off all the solvents and cured the paint outside. My Father in Law cured one in an apartment I had to stay in that night. Not fun with the stink and smoke.



You couldn't be more correct.
I wish I did that, I will the next time I install a stove.
That stink is hard to get out of carpet, couches ect..


----------



## USMC0802 (Sep 5, 2010)

I'm reading about the top down fire; I've never heard of it before. It looks interesting. Once the bottom layer is burning, is it any different than a traditional fire? Other than basically building the complete initial fuel source and not needing to touch it for a while, what's different about it?


----------



## cat-face timber (Sep 5, 2010)

amateur cutter said:


> nice lookin new stove usmc, looking forward to a little wood heat soon myself. A c



+1


----------



## BlueRidgeMark (Sep 5, 2010)

amateur cutter said:


> Hey Mark, would the top down burn work in a furnace as well as the stove in your opinion? I read a little on it last spring, but was about done burning by the time i found a thread on it. A C



I have no clue!  I don't know much about wood burning furnaces. Sorry I can't help.

I suppose you can always try it and tell us how it goes.


----------



## amateur cutter (Sep 5, 2010)

laynes69 said:


> I use top down on our woodfurnace. It heats the tubes, baffle, creates instant draft and burns with little to no smoke. A good top down fire will burn for a couple hours before tending. Works everytime.



OK, I'll give it a shot & report back in October. Thanks A C


----------



## USMC0802 (Sep 5, 2010)

cat-face timber said:


> You couldn't be more correct.
> I wish I did that, I will the next time I install a stove.
> That stink is hard to get out of carpet, couches ect..



I didn't get any stink, smoke, odor, or anything. Maybe I was lucky with this one.


----------



## USMC0802 (Sep 5, 2010)

Stone is still a little warm, not quite down to room temp...lit the small fire 3 hours ago. I think I'm going to be very happy with this stove. Can't wait to see the secondary burn tubes ignite. This is like Christmas going from an old, leaky, cracked cast iron stove with no window to this.


----------



## Cambium (Sep 6, 2010)

When I bought my new stove, I actually put my stove in my backyard and used it like a firepit, did it by accident before reading about the breakin period... Had a party that September day and me and a bunch of guys got the flames above where the flu starts...The stove must have gotten to 700 degrees! We burned a fire for a good hour...... 

Got lucky the paint didnt peel...but at least I knew it was broken in and the oils gone..

First time lighting it inside , no smell, ready to rock n roll. 

Roll it outside if you can, light it for a few hours not too hot!


----------



## USMC0802 (Sep 6, 2010)

The stove is 550 lbs. I'm not moving it, for just about anything.


----------



## Valkyrie Rider (Sep 6, 2010)

USMC0802 said:


> Started the first break-in fire this evening. Didn't get a stink or smoke or anything at all.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



BEAUTIFUL stove! I've always loved the look of the soapstone stoves. The large glass is a treat to watch for sure!

I installed a Quadrafire 3100 Millenium yesterday (it wasn't new... I got it free from my Mom's house when she sold it and couldn't take it along to a condo) It was cool overnight here so I started a fire yesterday and today just to try it out and to burn the smell off the new pipes. They sure did stink for a while! This stove also had a large glass window and it's great to watch!


----------



## sunfish (Sep 6, 2010)

Good lookin stove. My sister, bother-in-law have two, large and small and love them.

I've broke-in a few, Vermont, Waterford, Jotul. Just like you, I built 3 or 4 small fires, then started using like needed. No problems.

Cambium, you are a very lucky dude!


----------



## USMC0802 (Sep 6, 2010)

I burned another small fire this morning and I think I'll do the third one this evening, or do you think two is good to start and then once the burning season is here, do that last small fire before getting into regular burn cycle?


----------



## sunfish (Sep 6, 2010)

One more at burning season should be fine. But one more now wont hurt either.


----------



## Highbeam (Sep 7, 2010)

I've been burning in a hearthstone heritage for the last few years. Follow the manual exactly and don't skip a break-in fire. Your penalty could be broken stones and they aren't exactly easy to replace. 

Each year, you'll need to do it again. I just did my first break in fire of the season last night. 

Thing about these stoves is you can't wait until it gets hot and then shut it off. The stone stove doesn't respond quickly to draft setting changes. Everything is slow, a major flywheel effect with the large amount of thermal mass. So this means that you should only put small amounts of wood in there to do the break in fires and leave teh draft wide open. 

You will like this stove. Us stoners know something that the steel stove guys don't.


----------



## USMC0802 (Sep 7, 2010)

Highbeam said:


> I've been burning in a hearthstone heritage for the last few years. Follow the manual exactly and don't skip a break-in fire. Your penalty could be broken stones and they aren't exactly easy to replace.
> 
> Each year, you'll need to do it again. I just did my first break in fire of the season last night.
> 
> ...



I did two small fires with just kindling and the stones got to the point where they were just getting uncomfortable to leave my hand on the stones.

I called the dealer today for a couple things and was told if I don't smell paint cooking or "the odor," the stove needs some more heat. I figure three small fires and then I'll start increasing the size of the fires as the weather starts to cool down and slowly increase the intensity.


----------



## Mike PA (Sep 8, 2010)

USMC0802 said:


> I'm reading about the top down fire; I've never heard of it before. It looks interesting. Once the bottom layer is burning, is it any different than a traditional fire? Other than basically building the complete initial fuel source and not needing to touch it for a while, what's different about it?



As the fire burns from the top down, you will develop a layer of hot coals on the top of the fuel source, which will help to burn the gases that rise from the wood. In theory, this should help extend burn time and gain efficiency. To be honest, I'm not sure if that really happens. I've used top down fires, but not often, as my fires rarely go out. 

Top down fires can be used in any fire situation, from camp fires to furnaces.

BTW - Nice looking stove.


----------



## USMC0802 (Sep 8, 2010)

Mike PA said:


> As the fire burns from the top down, you will develop a layer of hot coals on the top of the fuel source, which will help to burn the gases that rise from the wood. In theory, this should help extend burn time and gain efficiency. To be honest, I'm not sure if that really happens. I've used top down fires, but not often, as my fires rarely go out.
> 
> Top down fires can be used in any fire situation, from camp fires to furnaces.
> 
> BTW - Nice looking stove.



Thanks. I can see how if you rake the coals, scoop the ashes, reload the stove and then shovel the coals on top of the new load of wood, it's a top down burn on the reload and in theory, it should work the same way I guess.


----------



## dmlefevre (Sep 8, 2010)

USMC0802, Beautiful stove, I had a Mansfield (sold with former house), and now have a Heritage. Going into my 3d season with it. Stove paid for itself in the first year. Sounds like you bought from a good dealer who knows what they are talking about. I season mine each year just like you are doing. Keep a close eye on the cast iron frame as mine developed a small crack in my first season. It was on the top left framework, above the side load door. Did not effect the functionality of the stove, but Hearthstone (and the dealer) made good on the considerable costs to repair and rebuild the stove. Enjoy!


----------



## USMC0802 (Sep 9, 2010)

Stopped by the dealer today to pick up a thermometer and get an idea of how long/warm I need to burn the stove and since it was cool and windy this evening, I put a few chunks in a bit before 10 and it's still got some orange coals in there. Surface temp hit all but 300*. These "chunks" are pieces I but off of splits that were too long to fit in the stove. If I'm getting 300* surface temps on a few of there are still coals in there and it's pushing 2.5 hours, I don't think I'll have a problem getting all night burns. It will be really nice to not get out of bed to refill the stove at least once to barely have coals in the morning to restart like I did with the old stove.


----------



## Cambium (Sep 9, 2010)

USMC0802 said:


> ..If I'm getting 300* surface temps on a few of there are still coals in there and it's pushing 2.5 hours, I don't think I'll have a problem getting all night burns. It will be really nice to not get out of bed to refill the stove at least once to barely have coals in the morning to restart like I did with the old stove.



Yeap...I hear ya...Not only did I hate waking up at 1am to throw another piece in there but I hated waking up in morning and spending 5-10minutes starting the thing up again... What I do like about that is seeing the smoke from the outside when I'm starting it.  

Only difference I have with you is, my stove thermometer will read 600* at 10pm and the coals will just be warm in morning.  I got a small stove and I think thats the difference...Bigger stove = more coals = more heat = longer lasting heat


----------



## Hugenpoet (Sep 9, 2010)

USMC0802 said:


> Started the first break-in fire this evening. Didn't get a stink or smoke or anything at all.
> 
> Everything ready:
> 
> ...



Very nice lookin' stove. You're going to really enjoy it come December and January.


----------



## dmlefevre (Sep 12, 2010)

Cleaned the chimney today, and seeing as it's overcast and gloomy, decided to season the stove as well. Won't be long now...


----------



## Hugenpoet (Sep 12, 2010)

dmlefevre said:


> Cleaned the chimney today, and seeing as it's overcast and gloomy, decided to season the stove as well. Won't be long now...



Nice picture, reminds me of winter. It's always good to see a man who can hardly wait to start burnin'. I love my stoves and while we're a good 5+ degrees colder than tropical Connecticut, I'm not looking to start burning until mid October.


----------



## USMC0802 (Sep 12, 2010)

I'm excited to see how my stove performs, but I can wait to start burning my wood pile for as long as the weather will allow. I enjoy cutting, but if I don't have to burn my wood, that money in the bank stays in the bank longer.


----------



## logbutcher (Sep 13, 2010)

One pretty stove...congrads, and neat hearth also.

But would you just leave the beast alone for awhile ? Cease the 'cumbayaa' . Control yourself Marine. 

It'll give you plenty of time to "get to know her" later. :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## USMC0802 (Sep 13, 2010)

logbutcher said:


> One pretty stove...congrads, and neat hearth also.
> 
> But would you just leave the beast alone for awhile ? Cease the 'cumbayaa' . Control yourself Marine.
> 
> It'll give you plenty of time to "get to know her" later. :hmm3grin2orange:



My stove top and flue probe thermometers came in on Saturday and today. Time to put the drill in the flue.


----------



## logbutcher (Sep 15, 2010)

usmc0802 said:


> my stove top and flue probe thermometers came in on saturday and today. Time to put the drill in the flue.



STEP AWAY FROM THE STOVE !!!!.
That is an order.


----------



## USMC0802 (Sep 15, 2010)

logbutcher said:


> STEP AWAY FROM THE STOVE !!!!.
> That is an order.




????


----------



## USMC0802 (Sep 20, 2010)

With the forecast for the night showing a low in the low 40s, I got another fire going tonight. Tried my first top down fire tonight as well. I know I wasn't going to need a raging fire, so I used some chunks that were pieces I left after cutting some splits that were over 20" down to size.

The stove top thermometer is showing about 350* right now and I expect it to climb a bit more as I backed the air control lever down for the night. I'm not expecting anything crazy for burn time or even heat output, but I'm continuing to get that hot stove smell as the temps are continuing to be new highs.

I'm really happy with how the heat feels coming off the stove. I'm interested to see how warm the surface temp will be tomorrow around 6:30-7:00.


----------



## blades (Sep 21, 2010)

Just did a bit bigger burn on my new 30nc over the weekend ( 45 Friday night and damp) Started about 7 pm by Ten it was 75 in the main part of the house (2k ranch) Put 2 smallish pieces of Silver maple in it on top of a fair coal bed, slid the control in about 3/4 of the way and crashed, 3am 78 in side and the stove was still around 400 deg. with just red coals. I think I am going to be quite toasty this winter. This stove operates differently than my previous unit, which also had secondaries but was about 10 years old. ( 30nc is about twice the size heat wise also). I can see a longer learning curve on this unit. 
Note: a good coal bed is important on these newer stoves as they are primarily designed to burn the wood gases. It is very different from my old stove to see all the flames at the top of the firebox and almost nothing except a red glow down below. I have not had this stove up beyond 500 deg as of yet according to the Rutland gauge on top in front of the flue. So I likely have not even hit its most efficient point as yet.


----------



## USMC0802 (Sep 21, 2010)

blades said:


> Just did a bit bigger burn on my new 30nc over the weekend ( 45 Friday night and damp) Started about 7 pm by Ten it was 75 in the main part of the house (2k ranch) Put 2 smallish pieces of Silver maple in it on top of a fair coal bed, slid the control in about 3/4 of the way and crashed, 3am 78 in side and the stove was still around 400 deg. with just red coals. I think I am going to be quite toasty this winter. This stove operates differently than my previous unit, which also had secondaries but was about 10 years old. ( 30nc is about twice the size heat wise also). I can see a longer learning curve on this unit.
> Note: a good coal bed is important on these newer stoves as they are primarily designed to burn the wood gases. It is very different from my old stove to see all the flames at the top of the firebox and almost nothing except a red glow down below. I have not had this stove up beyond 500 deg as of yet according to the Rutland gauge on top in front of the flue. So I likely have not even hit its most efficient point as yet.



Fortunately, the odor hasn't been annoying or a nuisance. For now, it's actually kind of nice as it's a prompt for me to go check the thermometer to see where the new high temp is at.

I have a feeling it will be at least a few more weeks until I get the opportunity to have the stove that hot. It peaked about about 375* on the surface temp last night before bed and it was 80* in the hall upstairs, about 77 in our bedroom. I didn't add any wood before bed as I wasn't trying to roast the house, I just wanted to bump the heat up overnight so it wasn't in the 60s in the morning for the baby. I think it was about 76 in the upstairs hallway at 7:30 this morning. The stove was warm to the touch, but not putting off heat. There were a few coals left, which was encouraging since there wasn't ever much in the stove during the entire burn. I've yet to put a single split in the stove.

I was impressed at the heat coming off the stove at 375 and I'm looking forward to that 500-550* range to heat the whole house when the temps drop into the teens and below.

I still haven't burned enough to even scoop any ashes yet. I have been reading mixed viewpoints on the soapstone stoves...one is that you burn them all winter and keep a consistent heat coming out of them and the other is you get them going hot, heat the stone, and then let the fire go and let the stone radiate heat for hours and hours and then start the cycle over again. A few people have been saying that keeping a constant burn doesn't allow the soapstone to really do its job - heat after the fire has gone out.

Any opinions on that from you soapstone stove owners?


----------



## Marc (Sep 21, 2010)

USMC0802 said:


> Any opinions on that from you soapstone stove owners?



Well, I've burned in a Hearthstone Heritage for 3 seasons now... 

The benefit I see in my soapstone is the overnight heat retention. I never get up in the night to load the stove, and my house is old and poorly insulated, so having the stones retain the heat and release it slower keeps the house from cooling off as fast. The trade off is of course it heats up slower as well.

It's the heat storage that's important to me. If the stove burns roughly the same efficiency as a comparable cast iron or steel stove, you'll get the same total heat output from your wood to your room. My stove, however, weighs about the same as my father's cast iron VC Encore. The rub is, cast iron's heat capacity is about 0.46 kJ/kg-K and soapstone is about 0.98 kJ/kg-K (I think steel is around 0.5).

The greater heat capacity creates greater thermal inertia (the flywheel analogy was a good one, whoever mentioned it). That's not terribly important to my dad, since his house is well insulated and his stove isn't in a room that's used all the time. Mine's in my kitchen, and like I said my house isn't well insulated, so I reap the benefits of having more heat stored in the stove, rather than in the air and walls of the house.

Of course, I think soapstone looks really nice as well.

Hope you could get something out of these ramblings...


----------



## dmlefevre (Sep 21, 2010)

Love my soapstone! In the cold season, my kids fill the stove at 3pm, I load it around 10pm, I load it at 6am and the cycle repeats. Stove will run for months like this. Can regulate the amount of heat given/time of burn by the size of the load in the stove. Dry wood makes the whole process much more pleasurable - so work the woodpile well...


----------



## USMC0802 (Sep 21, 2010)

Well, I have about 1.5 cords of oak that's been split since October 2009 and I have 2+ cords of walnut and some other hardwoods that's been split since January 2010. I have some black locust that was a standing dead and very dry, and then I have some wood that I cut throughout the spring and summer that's been split for a couple months now.

The dealer who sold me the stove doesn't think I'll burn more than 3 cords of wood in this stove, so if the 1.5 cords of oak gets me through half the winter, everything I'll put in the stove this year will have seasoned at least a full year.

Starting next year, I'll be burning stuff that's seasoned at least 15 months. I have all of my wood for next year already cut into firewood length rounds and we're going to start splitting the first weekend in October. So, I'll have 1.5-2 cords of black locust that was split in June or July for next year plus the wood we're splitting in October. That should be long enough to dry the wood sufficiently.


----------

