# difference in bar/chain oil??!!



## chainsawaddict (Mar 14, 2008)

So I dont really want to open up the age old argument, but are there differences between certain brands of Bar/Chain Lube? I had been using stihl oil, but bought some husky oil that was on sale the other day and the husky oil seemed A LOT stickier. After I poured the oil in, I had an Oil string go from the saw, up the side of the pickup and into the box. Can I just go to Wal Mart and start buying cheap lube, or does it really make a difference?

I am not trolling here! Serious ???


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## SteveH (Mar 14, 2008)

Yes, there have been earlier strings on this. From those strings and from my own experience, I can say with a reasonable amount of certainty that there are some differences. I have used, and use now, both Stihl and Echo brand, and I cannot tell the slightest difference between them and they may, indeed, be the same stuff. I have a bottle of MotionLotion from Baileys but haven't broken into it yet as I am using up the Stihl I have so I won't end up with two or three partial gallon jugs of oil sitting around....

I have used WalMart stuff, very inexpensive and almost useless. I could tell no difference between it and regular 30W auto oil. I had to give it away as it was giving me troubles and I damaged a bar using it [not enough tackiness and the bar overheated]. [Actually, I found zero tackiness.]

Other people on the forum have said they have good luck with Walmart brand [which is also sold as Poulan in this area of the country, same stuff and same bottle]. There has been some discussion that there are two qualities of the Poulan/Walmart. I don't know. I have only seen the junk stuff in the green bottle, and I will never use it again.


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## Evanrude (Mar 14, 2008)

I use both Stihl bar/chain oils (blue & orange). I have used ACE branded oil from ACE Hardware and noticed it is very close in tackiness/viscosity as the Stihl Orange. I have also used Tractor Supply's oil and its even tackier and thicker than the Stihl Orange. So there is definitely a difference between bar/chain oils. I figure the TSC oil would be for warmer days where the thicker oil would be more protective.


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## ShoerFast (Mar 14, 2008)

chainsawaddict said:


> So I dont really want to open up the age old argument, but are there differences between certain brands of Bar/Chain Lube? I had been using stihl oil, but bought some husky oil that was on sale the other day and the husky oil seemed A LOT stickier. After I poured the oil in, I had an Oil string go from the saw, up the side of the pickup and into the box. Can I just go to Wal Mart and start buying cheap lube, or does it really make a difference?
> 
> I am not trolling here! Serious ???



Just my $0.02 cents worth,,,,


I would not say that Husky oil seems thicker, but I will run it any day of the week. 

The order I like here, also fallows price, 

1) Stihl oil,,, just plain consistant and a cool running bar (relatively) 

2) Husky oil, a little cheeper then Stihl oil, but a good run, seems a little warmer running bar, and seem to drip off just a little 'blacker' then the stihl oil. (suggesting more ware?) Husky oil dode not seem as consistant as Stihl oil to me, but a good run. 

3) Power Blend oil, a lot cheeper then Stihl oil, but a noticably warmer running bar, you just get the feeling that it is not as good. 

4) Puland oil (from wally-world) I would rather run fish-snott if I could. Puland oil is by far the cheepest, about half the price of Stihl , but runs very hot in my saws, lots of 'black' dripping from the grove and tip suggesting metel is teansfering. And at altitude, it foams in the oil tank,,,,,, I call Puland expensive as it's only good for holding down dust in the driveway!

When I am near a Fleet- Farm, I will run there oil, but yes, I think there is a difference, if your wearing the heels off of the cutters (as the cutter rocks back) faster then you think, (and not running a dull chain) you should run a better oil. 

I had always wondered about picking up lazor temp gun and take bar temps with different oils, would be intersting?


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## Slamm (Mar 14, 2008)

I use Wal-mart bar oil and it has worked great for hundreds of thousands of board feet with 660's and 28" bars and 084 with 30" and 48" mostly all hardwoods with some walnut and a one million board foot cottonwood job (I didn't cut it all, LOL). 

There have not been any oil related issues with this cheap oil. No bars burning up and no chain problems.

So if you figure that is the bottom of the barrel, anything else you use will only be better oil. Now if you actually save or make any money off of using better bar oil, that is another question.

The difference I have saved in using cheaper oil, I figure, I could have purchased several new bars if I needed to.

I'm sure there is a difference in the oil, but I have never noticed it, bar oil is the one thing I am a complete cheapskate at, LOL.

This summer I will use vegetable oil, nothing is tackier than that, LOL.

I have used cheap oil extensively and mixed Stihl, Husky and Jonsered in at different times in an expensive pinch, and never was the use of expensive oil a life changing experience for me.

My opinion,

Sam


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## PB (Mar 14, 2008)

Most oil comes from one factory in Kentucky. It gets put into different jugs with different labels. Placebo affect.


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## spacemule (Mar 14, 2008)

PlantBiologist said:


> Placebo affect.



That runs all through engine and oil related themes. 

Would be interesting to put oils from the major players in several unmarked jugs and do a double blind test on it to see if people could tell a difference.


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## flashpuppy (Mar 14, 2008)

PlantBiologist said:


> Most oil comes from one factory in Kentucky. It gets put into different jugs with different labels. Placebo affect.




However, my pop's work for ExxonMobil. They have their own brand of bar and chain lube. It is red. I mean RED. I have had very good luck with this stuff. Hey, you can't beat the price either... 

Jeremy


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## mountain_man (Mar 14, 2008)

All oils are not the same they are similar but by all means not the same. Autozone bar/chain oil runs like water. Stihl is tacky while others have more or less... I've never had any problems with any major brand bar/chain oil from Stihl or the other companies. Use what you feel but take suggestions from here.


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## ShoerFast (Mar 14, 2008)

spacemule said:


> That runs all through engine and oil related themes.
> 
> Would be interesting to put oils from the major players in several unmarked jugs and do a double blind test on it to see if people could tell a difference.



I would tell you the Stihl just by lifting the cap and watching how far I could pull a string, Stihl hands down has better tackifyers. (spell check, ) Stihl is also more amber color then Husky's oil.


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## ShoerFast (Mar 14, 2008)

spacemule said:


> That runs all through engine and oil related themes.
> 
> Would be interesting to put oils from the major players in several unmarked jugs and do a double blind test on it to see if people could tell a difference.



By your choice of the word 'people' do you mean 'people that run saws' or people, as in drive by posters?


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## scotclayshooter (Mar 14, 2008)

Is it only in Scotland we get Oregon bar oil? Seems to be good!


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## chainsawaddict (Mar 14, 2008)

ShoerFast said:


> By your choice of the word 'people' do you mean 'people that run saws' or people, as in drive by posters?



i knew there was a pretty big difference between the two(as i said in the original post). I thought the husky oil was tackier.


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## Zodiac45 (Mar 14, 2008)

The stuff I've been using (can't get my red stuff anymore) is in a green jug and it's clear and quite tacky. I get the 10wt for the winter and the 30wt for the summer. Those are the only two they make., The 30wt seems tackier, but that's only because it's thicker. It won't hardly pour in cold temps. The 10wt works well in the cold and flows much better.


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## ShoerFast (Mar 14, 2008)

chainsawaddict said:


> i knew there was a pretty big difference between the two(as i said in the original post). I thought the husky oil was tackier.




It might be sometimes?

Not nearly the consistency.


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## oldsaw (Mar 14, 2008)

I've run primarily Quaker State (good stuff) and Husky (got a deal on it) over the past few years. Both good. I've picked up Poulan oil at Wallys in a pinch and have found it to be very inconsistent. Sometimes its thick and tacky, other times its thin and runny. The old tall jugs were usually thick, the short gallons were runny, but I got one last year that was pretty thick. I actually bought it for the Aux oiler on the mill in the fall/winter when I wanted a thinner oil.

Never used Stihl oil, too expensive for me when I can get the QS stuff for $5, I'm not too interested in $9 bar oil.

Mark


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## PB (Mar 14, 2008)

ShoerFast said:


> By your choice of the word 'people' do you mean 'people that run saws' or people, as in drive by posters?



What color is the cap on that Husky oil?

You can believe whatever you want but if you traced that jug back to the factory, they probably all came from the same one. Maybe one side of the factory or the other. They all work the same. As mentioned before, the red oil is different. I don't care what the jug says, bar oil is bar oil. It all has the same purpose, and as long as it flows through the saw and has tackifiers, what is the difference. I have never heard of anyone burning up a chain because of a bad bar oil. I would trust Oldsaw on this subject, milling is where oil really matters. Not saying that logging doesn't matter, but milling is harder than any other chainsaw application.


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## SawTroll (Mar 14, 2008)

I mostly use the Husky "Veg-Oil" - works well all the year, oiler puts out more, and less is needed....

....perfect for saws with marginal oilers, and you can cut back on the output of the others - good for your clothes and the environment as well, as it washes off in a notmal cloth wash, and breaks down fast in the nature....


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## bwalker (Mar 14, 2008)

I have used both Stihl and Wal-mart Supertech. Stihl seems to be thicker, which in the winter isnt always a good thing. Stihl is also about 3 times the price of supertech.
That said I have been using super tech for years now and I haven't had any bar failures or bars wearing prematurely.


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## BloodOnTheIce (Mar 14, 2008)

I've done a lot of checking around and here is how the Stihl we carry at our shop compares to what's available locally. 
A gallon of Stihl for 8.99$
TSC sells Husky oil for 11.99$
Walmart sells Poulan for 7.99$
Local Lumber yard sells Poulan brand for 15.99$
Local hardware sells what looks like waste oil for 10.99$ a gallon

Husky and Stihl both seem comparable. Poulan looks like engine oil. I swear what the hardware store just repackaged waste oil, and was the color of Guinness.


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## ShoerFast (Mar 14, 2008)

PlantBiologist said:


> What color is the cap on that Husky oil?
> 
> You can believe whatever you want but if you traced that jug back to the factory, they probably all came from the same one. Maybe one side of the factory or the other. They all work the same. As mentioned before, the red oil is different. I don't care what the jug says, bar oil is bar oil. It all has the same purpose, and as long as it flows through the saw and has tackifiers, what is the difference. I have never heard of anyone burning up a chain because of a bad bar oil. I would trust Oldsaw on this subject, milling is where oil really matters. Not saying that logging doesn't matter, but milling is harder than any other chainsaw application.




Hay, I don't make the news, just report it, and out of those two oils,,,,as I can buy it here (central Colorado) the Stihl oil is a better run,,,,,, there within a dollar. 

Milling is tuff,,,,and I have a lot of respect for Oldsaw, he knows that. 

But for the fun of discussion, what is harder on bar/chains, a consistent tensions, or excessive speed?

What needs to run longer, a chain milling, that need a good touch up ever couple tanks, or a saw running a few tanks before touch-up?

My milling chains will ware the cutter off long before the heel and DL's get rounded off. 

Another question of key importance is the use of an Aux-oiler, is dumping more, but a lower quality better then running less, but a better quality oil?

Another item is the use of 'Rim' sprockets over spur sprockets, as Rims will out last Spurs and be more oil-conserving. 

Just offering my $0.02 cents worth, but oil is not the expensive part.


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## leeave96 (Mar 14, 2008)

I have used Stihl oil for years and years and years. I like it, no need to change now.

Bill


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## bwalker (Mar 14, 2008)

Walmart super tech was $4.25 last time I bought it. The Stihl dealer now wants over 12 bucks for a gallon of bar oil.
I think I will stick to ST and buy a twelve pack of beer with the savings..


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## oldsaw (Mar 14, 2008)

Hey, I wasn't claiming any expert status. Been real happy with Quaker State for $5/gal. You go through a lot of oil when milling.

Mark


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## impactwrench (Mar 14, 2008)

Around here all priced the same:
Husky $7.99
Stihl $7.99
Other $7.98 (If your a Wal-mart you have to say your cheaper than others)


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## tomtrees58 (Mar 14, 2008)

*oil*

i used home depot just as good as stihl dut 4.99$ tom trees


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## windthrown (Mar 14, 2008)

Well, y'all should be using: 

Gary's Own brand of Premium Bar Oil. Made in the Puget Sound from fresh salmon oil and rendered beer cans, and has a "hint of oysters" when cutting wood. Only use the best! Gary's Own Premium Chainsaw Bar Oil. Buy some today :spam:


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## windthrown (Mar 14, 2008)

And on a more serious note... I was raised using 30 wt oil in chainsaws. Then chainsaw bar oil came along. I used several types, including Husky, Stihl, and Poulan. I did not notice that much difference on the bar or chain stretch using any of them. I used some WalMart oil a while ago, and did not think that much of it. Not tacky enough, it seemed more like 30 wt. oil to me. Of late I tried Home Depot's Power Blend (I think it is) oil and that was OK. About the same as what I am using here now, called Durex. Durex is blended in Portland (not all chainsaw oil is made in KY, I am afraid) and said to have special anti friction additives, and special tackiness additives, along with red dye for making it easy to see if you ahve enough oil on your bar and chain. It is really tacky stuff; bugs stick to the drippings on the side of the bottle. 

But I think I should really be using Gary's Own bar oil.


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## Ole Farmerbuck (Mar 14, 2008)

I guess the Poulan I get from Orscheln Farm And Ranch here is different than other Poulan cause this stuff is thick and strings out a 1/4 mile! Well maybe not quite that far but it's pretty stringy. Its in a black jug with orange lable. Walmart and home depot dont carry it.


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## windthrown (Mar 14, 2008)

Poulan stuff I used here was in a BRIGHT GREEN  gallon oblong jug (same shape as the Husky stuff) and was not that noticably over tacky. No strings. I used several gallons when a farm store chain was dropping the line and offed it for $4 a gallon.


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## PB (Mar 14, 2008)

ShoerFast said:


> Hay, I don't make the news, just report it, and out of those two oils,,,,as I can buy it here (central Colorado) the Stihl oil is a better run,,,,,, there within a dollar.
> 
> Milling is tuff,,,,and I have a lot of respect for Oldsaw, he knows that.
> 
> ...



For the sake of discussion, I would say that milling would be harder due to the constant running of the rain at high RPM. When you are using a saw felling and bucking logs, you might be wasting more gas per tank when it is idling between cuts, and the constant revving up will use more gas. When milling I think the chain is moving more per working minute than a logging saw. 



oldsaw said:


> Hey, I wasn't claiming any expert status. Been real happy with Quaker State for $5/gal. You go through a lot of oil when milling.
> 
> Mark



Sorry, wasn't trying to speak for you. I just thought that you would spend the extra money for Stihl brand oil if you thought it would be worth it.


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 14, 2008)

Stihl uses "Paratac" as the tackifier. It's an expensive tackifier, but very good. It's used on conveyers, machine ways and other places you want lubricant to stick. I use Stihl winter weight oil on my lathe ways.. heck of a lot cheaper than the "correct product". 

Check the MSDS for the other brands, and check the % of Paratac. Some are right up there with Stihl, some don't have it at all. There are other tackifiers, but Paratac is one of the best.

Stihl oil is virgin, not recycled or blended with other products used by the packager. Stihl would like us to believe it's better for the pumps.... and may well be overkill, but it is what it is. It will be interesting to see if Stihl and other so-called "premium" brands can hold the prices even close to reasonable with crude over $100 per barrel..

I have no idea the wear diffences for typicial cutting... chains wear out the cutters way before the tangs, and bars seem to last for years. Milling - you need every thing you can get from the bar oil... and bio is worthless for milling.


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## windthrown (Mar 14, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> It will be interesting to see if Stihl and other so-called "premium" brands can hold the prices even close to reasonable with crude over $100 per barrel..



It will be interesting to see if there is an econopmy left with oil over $100 a barrel....   :jawdrop:  opcorn:


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## Slamm (Mar 14, 2008)

So, where are we at here?

Do we agree that it doesn't make a hill of beans worth of difference what oil is used for typical firewood or logging type of saw use?

Milling is a different world.

I still haven't heard of anyone saying they had a failure directly related to oil no matter what the quality.

Sam


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## ShoerFast (Mar 14, 2008)

ShoerFast said:


> 4) Puland oil (from wally-world) *I would rather run fish-snott if I could.* Puland oil is by far the cheepest, about half the price of Stihl , but runs very hot in my saws, lots of 'black' dripping from the grove and tip suggesting metel is teansfering. And at altitude, it foams in the oil tank,,,,,, I call Puland expensive as it's only good for holding down dust in the driveway!





windthrown said:


> Well, y'all should be using:
> 
> Gary's Own brand of Premium Bar Oil. Made in the Puget Sound from fresh salmon oil and rendered beer cans, and has a "hint of oysters" when cutting wood. Only use the best! Gary's Own Premium Chainsaw Bar Oil. Buy some today :spam:




Soooo

Gary, there is hope for my 'fish snott' ?


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## PB (Mar 14, 2008)

Slamm said:


> So, where are we at here?
> 
> Do we agree that it doesn't make a hill of beans worth of difference what oil is used for typical firewood or logging type of saw use?
> 
> ...



Me either. It all works the same.


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## windthrown (Mar 14, 2008)

Well, I noticed severe chain stretch on my trash 210 saw when I used plain 30 wt oil in it once. I would think that the less tacky oils out there would not run as well as a result, cause more bar and chain wear, and probably more stretch (from friction and heating up too much).


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 14, 2008)

Even if the "wrong" oil decreased bar life by 50%, would anyone notice?


What if high quality oil allowed you to use 50% less oil for for the same wear? Hey, price just doubled/halved.. 

So.. to throw another wrinkle - with the newer reduced output pumps... it might well matter more than some think.


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## PB (Mar 14, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Even if the "wrong" oil decreased bar life by 50%, would anyone notice?



Probably not, but would spending an extra 3 or so dollars a gallon for "better" bar oil be justified? You would have enough money for a new bar saved after 20 gallons (thanks windthrown).

Edit: Oh I see, you go and add more while I was in the process of quoting you. I see how you operate.


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## ShoerFast (Mar 14, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Even if the "wrong" oil decreased bar life by 50%, would anyone notice?
> 
> 
> What if high quality oil allowed you to use 50% less oil for for the same wear? Hye, price juts doubled/halved..
> ...



No,,, I would not know when the bar was sposta ware out. 

I worry more about shelling out the needle bearing in the clutch, taking out the crank-end. And the only bar-tips I replaced on my own saws were operator error. 

I hand file bar rails, and will honestly say that there seems a differance in how much 'U' or knife-edge the chain will put in if you turn the oiler down too much or running drain-oil.


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## Slamm (Mar 14, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Even if the "wrong" oil decreased bar life by 50%, would anyone notice?



Exactly. I have never ever noticed anything that would effect my wallet EXCEPT for the initial cost of the oil, and when Wally oil is $2-$4 per gallon, you can buy 4-2 jugs for every one jug of "good" stuff. 

Tackifiers or no tackifiers, LOL.

Well, now we can end this bar/chain oil discussion with the notion that it doesn't make any difference.......... yeah right, LOL.

Sam


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## windthrown (Mar 14, 2008)

PlantBiologist said:


> Probably not, but would spending an extra 3 or so dollars a gallon for "better" bar oil be justified? You would have enough money for a new bar saved after 20 tanks.
> 
> Edit: Oh I see, you go and add more after I already quoted you. I see how you operate.



I buy pricey bars, and I would pay more for better anti-friction oil so they would last longer. 

And you mean after 20 gallons of bar oil? That's more that I could use in 2 years. But then, that's about as long as I would expect a bar to last here too. :monkey:


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## ShoerFast (Mar 14, 2008)

PlantBiologist said:


> Probably not, but would spending an extra 3 or so dollars a gallon for "better" bar oil be justified? You would have enough money for a new bar saved after 20 tanks.
> 
> Edit: Oh I see, you go and add more while I was in the process of quoting you. *I see how you operate.*




Yup, 17.5K post,,,,,2 at a time! 

Thanks Andy


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## PB (Mar 14, 2008)

windthrown said:


> I buy pricey bars, and I would pay more for better anti-friction oil so they would last longer.
> 
> And you mean after 20 gallons of bar oil? That's more that I could use in 2 years. But then, that's about as long as I would expect a bar to last here too. :monkey:



So I have been drinking tonight, my math and reasoning aren't so great.


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## ShoerFast (Mar 14, 2008)

windthrown said:


> I buy pricey bars, and I would pay more for better anti-friction oil so they would last longer.
> 
> And you mean after 20 gallons of bar oil? That's more that I could use in 2 years. But then, that's about as long as I would expect a bar to last here too. :monkey:



So it's a wash?

Not counting that stack of rim-sprockets, less fiddling with chain-tension. 

It would be intresting to hear how many true gallons of bar oil goes thru a bar till it's shot,,,,and if there is a savings with the cheeper oil. 

Just me, but I lean on the best I can run, the cost is secondary it seems.


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## PB (Mar 14, 2008)

ShoerFast said:


> So it's a wash?
> 
> Not counting that stack of rim-sprockets, less fiddling with chain-tension.
> 
> ...



Shoer, being a scientist and all I will work this out for you. Send me 2 Windsor Speed tip bars for the 2171 and a bunch of oil and I will tell you which one is the best. Unbiased and all.


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 14, 2008)

ShoerFast said:


> I hand file bar rails, and will honestly say that there seems a differance in how much 'U' or knife-edge the chain will put in if you turn the oiler down too much or running drain-oil.



Drain oil does take out pumps... and really pisses me off when I work on the filthy pos that uses it.


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## Slamm (Mar 14, 2008)

ShoerFast said:


> So it's a wash?
> 
> Not counting that stack of rim-sprockets, less fiddling with chain-tension.
> 
> ...



I am basically admitting to using the cheapest oil made (I think) and I have never experienced those problems. My rim sprocket are not made from aluminum alloy, LOL, so I'm not sure how anyone goes through that many of those things.

I do use Stihl chains and bars or GB bars. But the oil is the cheapest that money can get and in the summer of 2006, we used Wally oil and everyone that I cut with had the same bar at the end of the year that they started with and there wasn't anything wrong with them either. I use 28" typically not some 20" bar on a 660.

I just don't see how better/more expensive oil would provide any finacial benefit to anyone who used a saw any less.

My opinion,

Sam


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## Bowtie (Mar 14, 2008)

No way am I using drain oil for bar oil, nooooo wayyy. I use it to lube the drive chains on the crawler cranes at work.


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## windthrown (Mar 14, 2008)

Makes for a great salad dressing though!


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## PB (Mar 14, 2008)

windthrown said:


> Makes for a great salad dressing though!



So does a boiled down panda glaze. Especially on top of spotted owl fried eggs. Mmmmm....good.

Panda: The other red meat.


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## windthrown (Mar 14, 2008)

Been drinking too much bar oil there tonight, have you, BioPlantMan?


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## PB (Mar 14, 2008)

windthrown said:


> Been drinking too much bar oil there tonight, have you, BioPlantMan?



What makes you say that?


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## ShoerFast (Mar 14, 2008)

PlantBiologist said:


> What makes you say that?



Ahhemmm,,,,

That part were you said dat! post #44  



PlantBiologist said:


> So I have been drinking tonight, my math and reasoning aren't so great.


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## PB (Mar 14, 2008)

ShoerFast said:


> Ahhemmm,,,,
> 
> That part were you said dat! post #44



Oh. How bout that.


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## ShoerFast (Mar 14, 2008)

PlantBiologist said:


> Oh. How bout that.




Now that cracked me up!  

Time for a shot, here's to mud in your eye! 



ShoerFast said:


>




​


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## chainsawaddict (Mar 15, 2008)

Wow! 

I have to say I am glad I found this site. You know you have a problem when a four page thread about bar oil is interesting and exciting! 
:greenchainsaw: 

As far as the oil goes, I think Im gonna stick with the stihl oil, but it sounds like it may be a wash when you compare the extra oil cost to the cost of a new bar....This may never be solved without a true test.


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## foxeye (Apr 2, 2008)

I run primarily Gold Bond oil for my bar oil and have yet to have any probs with bars or chain in over 25 years so I see no reason to change now. I also use the same bar / chain oil on my machine tools ways and they too also look great after all these years.


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## rms61moparman (Apr 2, 2008)

A waxed car gets better gas mileage!


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 3, 2008)

BloodOnTheIce said:


> I've done a lot of checking around and here is how the Stihl we carry at our shop compares to what's available locally.
> A gallon of Stihl for 8.99$
> TSC sells Husky oil for 11.99$
> Walmart sells Poulan for 7.99$
> ...



I bought some TSC brand bar oil from my TSC the other day for $4.99 per gallon.

Rob


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## SWI Don (Apr 3, 2008)

I was thinking the Poulan oil from Orchelens is in a black bottle the same shape as the husky bottle pictured. It seems to be pretty decent. I cracked open my new bottle last weekend when we cut & loaded around 5 full size heaping pickup loads in about 3 hrs. It seemed to work well. Only time will tell.

I have a buddy that got a couple of 55's of used hydraulic oil (very clean) from a friend that operates a lot of heavy equipment. We used it some this last winter and it compared very well with the Stihl winter grade I was using.

I don't know about using it this summer as it is pretty thin but for winter use I'll probably continue to use the free stuff.


Don


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## Ole Farmerbuck (Apr 4, 2008)

SWI Don said:


> I was thinking the Poulan oil from Orchelens is in a black bottle the same shape as the husky bottle pictured. It seems to be pretty decent. I cracked open my new bottle last weekend when we cut & loaded around 5 full size heaping pickup loads in about 3 hrs. It seemed to work well. Only time will tell.
> 
> I have a buddy that got a couple of 55's of used hydraulic oil (very clean) from a friend that operates a lot of heavy equipment. We used it some this last winter and it compared very well with the Stihl winter grade I was using.
> 
> ...



I would think the hyd oil would fly right off. But with it cold it might be ok.


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 4, 2008)

SWI Don said:


> I was thinking the Poulan oil from Orchelens is in a black bottle the same shape as the husky bottle pictured. It seems to be pretty decent. I cracked open my new bottle last weekend when we cut & loaded around 5 full size heaping pickup loads in about 3 hrs. It seemed to work well. Only time will tell.
> 
> I have a buddy that got a couple of 55's of used hydraulic oil (very clean) from a friend that operates a lot of heavy equipment. We used it some this last winter and it compared very well with the Stihl winter grade I was using.
> 
> ...



I wish someone would give me a couple bbls of clean oil like that. I'd mix it 50/50 with diesel, and burn it in my pickup! I do it all the time, and it makes excelent fuel!!

It's the only way these days i can get 2 dollar diesel!!!

Rob


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## Hugenpoet (Apr 4, 2008)

Sawyer Rob said:


> I wish someone would give me a couple bbls of clean oil like that. I'd mix it 50/50 with diesel, and burn it in my pickup! I do it all the time, and it makes excelent fuel!!
> 
> It's the only way these days i can get 2 dollar diesel!!!
> 
> Rob



For your sake, I hope you live near a bus line.


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## HolmenTree (Apr 4, 2008)

Hard to beat Stihl chain oil. The best I used though was Texaco Clingtex, haven't seen it for years.


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## ken45 (Apr 4, 2008)

*summer/winter?*

AFAIK, only Stihl makes summer and winter weight chain oils, no one else does. So does Sthil have a better approach or is it better to use a one oil fits all weather approach?


The stuff I got at Walmart in the green jug (Poland, I think, the jug cracked and I transferred it), was so thick in winter I was afraid to use it in cold weather (almost like axle grease). 

Why did I go to Walmart? The one Stihl dealer moved away and the other Stihl dealer is a Radio Shack (I kid you not!) and they never heard of winter weight Stihl bar oil.

Ken


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## SWI Don (Apr 5, 2008)

I believe Husqvarna offers a winter grade also. I haven't used it but I believe a friend of mine had a jug.

Don


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## ShoerFast (Apr 5, 2008)

This will sound a little old skool-hick, but it works....

Not looking as much as lubing the bar, but getting the stuff to pour. I have taken fuel/mix and dumped it into a bar-oil jug. 

On real cold days, waiting for what seems forever to get bar oil to pour, dumping in a good 15% or so and shaking the daylights out of a bar oil jug gets you through a cold day. 

Truth, I think days like that are why God invented fish houses and made the ice thick enough to drive to them!


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## milkie62 (Apr 6, 2008)

*Vactra oil is bar oil*

Bar oil seems to be the same as machine tool way oil.It is referred to as Vactra oil #2 or #4 .It is very tacky and you will get a string between your fingers.I think Graingers sells it in 5 Gallon pails. I seen it advertised by Mobil.It is probably alot cheaper by the pail than buying it by the gallon.I keep a couple of the name brand jugs and just transfer it.I will bet the Stihl winter and summer wts are Vactra 2 and 4 respectively.Never had a problem using it.Just do not use #4 in the winter.....


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## Dubai Vol (Apr 6, 2008)

As a complete newbie who knows nothing about saws, but knows a lot about machinery, I can say without a doubt that there certainly is a difference between bar oils, even in my very limited experience. With the help of this forum I bought my first saw last year, a Husky 359. I started out with a quart of Husky bar oil, but when that ran out I bought a gallon of Tractor Supply branded bar oil. I thought my saw was broken! Oil was spewing out all over the place where it hadn't with the Husky oil! Aaugh! Whether the TS oil is better or worse I won't try to say, but "different" it definitely is! Just from memory, the TS oil said on the jug that it was straight 30W oil. I would guess that the additives in the Husky oil make it stickier, but I'm not going to claim anything; as I said, I'm a NEWBIE!


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## ken45 (Apr 6, 2008)

milkie62 said:


> Bar oil seems to be the same as machine tool way oil.It is referred to as Vactra oil #2 or #4 .It is very tacky and you will get a string between your fingers.I think Graingers sells it in 5 Gallon pails. I seen it advertised by Mobil.It is probably alot cheaper by the pail than buying it by the gallon.I keep a couple of the name brand jugs and just transfer it.I will bet the Stihl winter and summer wts are Vactra 2 and 4 respectively.Never had a problem using it.Just do not use #4 in the winter.....



Grainger's prices are $80-90 (plus shipping?) for 5 gallons. That makes Stihl or Husky bar oil at $8-11/gallon look good.

Ken


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## Hugenpoet (Apr 6, 2008)

ken45 said:


> Grainger's prices are $80-90 (plus shipping?) for 5 gallons. That makes Stihl or Husky bar oil at $8-11/gallon look good.
> 
> Ken



Yes, and also makes one wonder if they are indeed the same product.


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## Hawkster (Apr 6, 2008)

*Interesting???*



milkie62 said:


> Bar oil seems to be the same as machine tool way oil.It is referred to as Vactra oil #2 or #4 .It is very tacky and you will get a string between your fingers.I think Graingers sells it in 5 Gallon pails. I seen it advertised by Mobil.It is probably alot cheaper by the pail than buying it by the gallon.I keep a couple of the name brand jugs and just transfer it.I will bet the Stihl winter and summer wts are Vactra 2 and 4 respectively.Never had a problem using it.Just do not use #4 in the winter.....



I am no expert on anything. That being said, I have noticed many differences between different brands. "Vactra Oil" is something I am very familiar with since I have used it for over 30 years in machine tools. Similar application to chainsaws in that it provides a film between two surfaces to reduce friction. The speed is what concerns me. Chains on bars are quite a bit faster than machine tool ways. Although the pressure load on ways of the machine would be much higher. The difference may not be an issue. I suspect this difference may be the difference between different brands of actual bar/chain oil. IMO cheap oil of any type is just that - CHEAP OIL. Some people don't care and some do. I won't buy the cheapest stuff and I won't buy the most expensive oil either. The most expensive doesn't always make it the best oil either. I'm definitely going to investigate this Vactra oil idea though. (since I have an unlimited supply at my disposal)


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## milkie62 (Apr 6, 2008)

*For Hawkster*

Well Hawkster I have been using Vactra oil for about 20 yrs.My supply finaaly dried up and will more than likely be using Husky oil now.Never had a problem with it.As a matter of fact it seems like more crud stays with the chain attesting to its stickynist (sp?). Mobil 634 gear oil seems to hang on pretty good too.I had a chance to try many oils working in a machine shop.But vactra #2 is spec'd for the roller chains where I work now.And they move pretty fast.Try that Vactra and let me know what you think.......


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## NC Firewood (Apr 6, 2008)

I'm partial to STIHL but ITASCA (I believe) is not bad either it's in the green bottle.


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## Rookie1 (Apr 22, 2008)

I have opportunity to get odd quarts of oil often and have used all sorts of brands and weights for chain oil.I like free better than any price you guys listed.


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## GASoline71 (Apr 22, 2008)

LMAO... free is good... but not always best. 

Gary


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 22, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> LMAO... free is good... but not always best.
> 
> Gary





Hmmm.... Gary.. you're starting to worry me... First time you log on for days and you head straight for an oil thread...:jawdrop:


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## Cedarkerf (Apr 22, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Hmmm.... Gary.. you're starting to worry me... First time you log on for days and you head straight for an oil thread...:jawdrop:


His post was really mellow for an oil thread maybe hes on meds .


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 22, 2008)

must be...


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## Bowtie (Apr 23, 2008)

Isnt worth it to me to mess around with bar oil or mix oil. I know everyone is trying to save a buck wherever they can anymore, but I keep my saws and bar/chains in top condition. Stihl oils have always performed well, so I will keep using them. its not only quality, but peace of mind.

Edit: My saws dont sit on a shelf all the time either, I use them hard when I use them, and no problems with burnt chains or bars.


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## 2dogs (Apr 23, 2008)

Bowtie said:


> Isnt worth it to me to mess around with bar oil or mix oil. I know everyone is trying to save a buck wherever they can anymore, but I keep my saws and bar/chains in top condition. Stihl oils have always performed well, so I will keep using them. its not only quality, but peace of mind.
> 
> Edit: My saws dont sit on a shelf all the time either, I use them hard when I use them, and no problems with burnt chains or bars.



Can't argue with that.


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## treeclimber jul (Apr 23, 2008)

I use durex and I like it better than stihl oil. It SEEMS to have more takkieness than stihl. Got it on sale at bi-mart for 5.25 a gal I think 

wish I could get it by the barrel


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## GASoline71 (Apr 23, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Hmmm.... Gary.. you're starting to worry me... First time you log on for days and you head straight for an oil thread...:jawdrop:





Cedarkerf said:


> His post was really mellow for an oil thread maybe hes on meds .





Lakeside53 said:


> must be...



   

...or drunk.

LMAO 

Gary


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## windthrown (Apr 23, 2008)

treeclimber jul said:


> I use durex and I like it better than stihl oil. It SEEMS to have more takkieness than stihl. Got it on sale at bi-mart for 5.25 a gal I think
> 
> wish I could get it by the barrel



I use mostly Durex too. Good stuff. Same place (Bi-Mart). They make it in Portland. Maybe give them a call for barrel supply.


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 23, 2008)

Hmmm... In other parts of the world... Durex is a brand of condoms... same oil?


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## ShoerFast (Apr 23, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Hmmm... In other parts of the world... Durex is a brand of condoms... same oil?



Now your thinking Motion Lotion.


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## windthrown (Apr 23, 2008)

And that guy on another thread said that talking about chainsaws turned his date off at a bar... geez, this thread is getting pretty steamy over bar... lube.


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## gonecountry (Apr 23, 2008)

HolmenTree said:


> Hard to beat Stihl chain oil. The best I used though was Texaco Clingtex, haven't seen it for years.



I remember when I was young my dad used clingtex and said it was the best stuff out there. I also remember him curing after Ultramar took over all the local Texaco's and he could never get it again.


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## secureland (May 10, 2008)

Here is a link to a forester/chemist that had good results with veggie oil

http://www.rsc.org/chemistryworld/Is...ay/Careers.asp

The biggest problem that I have read about is the veggie and canola oil being stored in the saw for a long time. Everyone says to dump it out for long-term storage. I'm wondering if that will do enough to get it out of the lines?


Bill


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## tbuggle (May 10, 2008)

if you're a firewood cutter, perhaps go with the cheap stuff.

otherwise, may as well fire up the furnace...


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## fubar2 (May 11, 2008)

Ive been useing Tractor Supply ,black jug, for over thirty years. Plop down my five bucks and leave happy. I use it year round and never had any complaints.


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## Hugenpoet (May 11, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Hmmm... In other parts of the world... Durex is a brand of condoms... same oil?



Try not to get them confused or you'll have an unhappy girlfriend.


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## heimannm (May 11, 2008)

*More oil talk*

I have used Super Tech, TSC, Husky, and Do It (hardware store), others as well I'm sure and noticed some are thicker than others, some are tackier, and I think it was the Husky oil that really smelled of sulphur. I am sure that in this case the high sulphur is probably a good thing as sulphur is a good lubricant. I only cut firewood and go through a few gallons each year, spread out over a number of saws I don't notice bar wear as being significant. Using enough oil seems to be as important or even more important that what brand of oil for the "casual" user like myself.

Mark

Of course there are technologies out there that require no lubrication...


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## kenneth davidson (Nov 29, 2014)

chainsawaddict said:


> So I dont really want to open up the age old argument, but are there differences between certain brands of Bar/Chain Lube? I had been using stihl oil, but bought some husky oil that was on sale the other day and the husky oil seemed A LOT stickier. After I poured the oil in, I had an Oil string go from the saw, up the side of the pickup and into the box. Can I just go to Wal Mart and start buying cheap lube, or does it really make a difference?
> 
> I am not trolling here! Serious ???


I know this is an old post, but I have had really good luck with the poulan in the green can. I just went through a gallon from walmart for 8 bucks. nice and tacky, no smoking. I was researching to see if I could find something better, but heard Stihl went to some inferior product.


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## Deleted member 83629 (Nov 29, 2014)

holy old thread revival  
i run itasca bar oil from my local co-op 8$ gallon its tacky tacky tacky but not thick or thin.
i have also ran regular motor oil either sae 30 or 40 it works fine in the summer it was new not used.
don't run used oil in your saws oiler its a nasty smelly mess and it is hard on the oiler pump.


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