# Chainsaw milling from both sides of a log



## gsdtom (Sep 1, 2016)

I am new to both forums and chainsaw milling so forgive me if this is a stupid question. If i wished to slab a 36 log into 2 - 4 inch thick slabs and only have a well power 24 inch bar , is it possible to make 2 cuts - one from the left side and one from the right side of the butt and not due damage to the saw. I would wedge the first cut of course.


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## Jimbo209 (Sep 1, 2016)

What's your powerhead.
70cc+ might be able to baby along with regular sharpening of chain for one log with a 36" bar.
but to mill 36"you will need a bar bigger than 36"


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## kimosawboy (Sep 1, 2016)

Take your time and dont abuse your saw too much and its very do-able.
Ignore the commentator in this video but watch what chainsaw dude is doing, ..shallow cuts letting the saw do the work. You might want to wear shoes though..


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## rarefish383 (Sep 1, 2016)

You could also use a small Haddon Lumber Maker mill or other brand mini mill that bolts to the bar and rides on a 2X4. Screw the 2X4 on the log and cut down as deep as it will go. It will be pretty straight. Roll the log over 180*, line the 2X4 up so the grove matches your first cut. Watch when you get close to the end, it will come apart fast and it will be several hundred pounds flopping down fast. You might screw four 2X4 legs, two on each end, sticking out at 45* angles, to keep it from flopping. Should work, Joe.


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## IyaMan (Sep 2, 2016)

You can use a Granberg Small Log Mill, which attaches only on the engine side of the bar. I'd recommend using as much bar oil as possible though, and also pausing often (every minute) to let the saw cool (just let it idle and let its internal fan cool it, don't turn off the saw). This kind of cut with sinking the bar tip will generate a lot of heat, so take it easy.

As asked, what size of saw? Also, what kind of wood (hard or soft)? Do you have milling chain?


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## BobL (Sep 2, 2016)

IyaMan said:


> You can use a Granberg Small Log Mill, which attaches only on the engine side of the bar. I'd recommend using as much bar oil as possible though, and also pausing often (every minute) to let the saw cool (just let it idle and let its internal fan cool it, don't turn off the saw). This kind of cut with sinking the bar tip will generate a lot of heat, so take it easy.



24" bar in 36" wood. Hummmmm. One of the best ways to take load of any CS engine is to keep the chain sharp so maybe stop half way and touch up the chain?


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## Rosss (Nov 2, 2017)

Great question and I appreciate the answers.
I had been wondering this very thing. 
I just got a good saw for milling but it came with a 20 inch bar.
I have access to a downed maple that is much bigger than my current equipment can mill and it is impossible to move and mill later when I have a set up that would work with it.


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## SeMoTony (Nov 9, 2017)

gsdtom said:


> I am new to both forums and chainsaw milling so forgive me if this is a stupid question. If i wished to slab a 36 log into 2 - 4 inch thick slabs and only have a well power 24 inch bar , is it possible to make 2 cuts - one from the left side and one from the right side of the butt and not due damage to the saw. I would wedge the first cut of course.



Match the chain to the length of bar needed on the powerhead at hand. My avatar shows my ms-460 muf-modded which just pulled skip chisel chain around a 60" bar. Patience to keep the saw singing while holding the feed to the optimum speed for same.
I got a 661 from this site and got a 72" bar "just in case" a use shows up. A 42" bar will slice 37"+ a bit on my Alaskan, faster w/661 than the 460 never was successful at matching opposing cuts; good luck w/that and all your trys


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