# Stump grinder teeth sharpening



## Cupocoffee

I am interested in finding someone to professionally sharpen my stump grinder teeth. I have a Carlton SP 7015 with the Razor wheel. New teeth are $15 each. Carlton will sharpen for $4.75 but they send them out and I would have to pay shipping to Carlton, I would pay shipping to and from the sharpener, and then I would pay shipping back to me. So, you can see, there is a lot just tied up in shipping four different times. Even with all the shipping costs, it will save quite a bit if I pay Carlton to job this out. Who knows a good tooth sharpener. I don't want to sharpen the teeth myself.


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## flushcut

Monroe Rapid edge in Monroe MI. There is a AS member called Blades and I know he sharpens. 
I bought a diamond wheel do my own it cost me $164 and I have over 200 yellow jacket sharpened with it and the wheel still looks new. The wheel has paid for itself over and over. Just sayin.


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## Cupocoffee

flushcut said:


> Monroe Rapid edge in Monroe MI. There is a AS member called Blades and I know he sharpens.
> I bought a diamond wheel do my own it cost me $164 and I have over 200 yellow jacket sharpened with it and the wheel still looks new. The wheel has paid for itself over and over. Just sayin.



Thank you, I'll check into both of these.


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## PassionForTrees

flushcut said:


> Monroe Rapid edge in Monroe MI. There is a AS member called Blades and I know he sharpens.
> I bought a diamond wheel do my own it cost me $164 and I have over 200 yellow jacket sharpened with it and the wheel still looks new. The wheel has paid for itself over and over. Just sayin.



I second that! wear a mask and have a fan blowing the dust away from you! Diamond wheel is the way to go. learn how and youll never have to rely on anyone again, saving you tuns of money! I think I have had my 1100 series Greenteeth now for 2 years same teeth sharpened 3 times over still going. I might have broke 2 but it's amazing what you save in time and money.


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## beastmaster

I think lots of people don't like to sharpen their own teeth because they use those green wheels. A diamond wheel makes quick work of carbide.


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## blades

CBN wheel works for both carbide and the steel ( not a green silicon carbide wheel), diamond only good for the carbide portion. Cost is similar to diamond or slightly higher. Haven't checked prices lately.


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## bigstumpgrinder

hey blades, I have a CBN wheel for sharpening my lathe tools. It says not to use a CBN wheel on anything but high speed steel. Not sure it should be used for sharpening stump grinder bits. I use a diamond wheel to sharpen my carbide stump grinder bits. (greenteeth)


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## buckeyebasser23

what is your guys setup to sharpen these? I uses rayco super teeth. What diamond wheel and what do you put it on ? I need to get a setup and learn thanks


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## beastmaster

I worked as a tool grinder all through high school. We did a lot of carbide tools from blanks making form tools. It wouldn't be to hard to replace the carbide in stump grinder teeth instead of buying new teeth. We did all carbide grinding with diamond wheels. Used diamond cup wheels for sharping the tools. Diamond wheels are expensive but last a long time. I saw a little machine at harbor freight that would be perfect I think, just exchange the wheel for a diamond one.


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## Fairbanks Stump

I've posted many times on here about this but here you go again
I also have a 7015 a fenominal cutter I have the new river wheel but the cutting tips are basically the same.
DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME CONTINUOUSLY REPACING/REMOVING THE TEETH! 
Here's what you need
- A 4.5 grinder I like the rechargeable grinder like the DeWalt and 5 batteries if I tune the teeth up every night after 8 or so hours of grinding it takes 3.5 batteries if they are really rounded it takes 5
- a green diamond wheel with a cutting surface that's about 1/2 inch wide I've seen them for sale on eBay or from Gabdon industries
- a particulate mask
- eye protection
It is best to sharpen with the teeth still in the wheel because they are held fast and you can apply good pressure to them 
TIPS
It is best to only sharpen the face of the tooth once you have the surface flat again make your edge by lightly grinding the top surface 
after you have sharpened the teeth 8-10 times they will start to badly round the corners so what I do is tip the wheel so I cut downward and make a 45 on the rounded edge in the same plane as the circumstance of the disk
I generally get 30-40 sharpenings on my teeth before they are worn out or break off 
I've been using the same green wheel on my DeWalt grinder for 2.5 years and I will probably replace it this year
I grind ~ 8-10,000 stumps a year with my Carlton I used to spend $2-3000 per year in new teeth now that I have been sharpening them on the machine I don't go through $500 .... Just a little time. 
It usually takes me 45-50 mins to sharpen all my teeth.
Another tip is start using the Long shorts on your leading teeth it will dramatically reduce your wear on the wheel the pockets and the side holders! 

I hope this helps


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## 2treeornot2tree

I tried a bench green wheel to sharpen my sandvick teeth. Maybe it was the wrong wheel, Idk but the green wheel didn't want to cut the carbide worth a crap. My little 4" diamond wheel works.

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## Fairbanks Stump

A bench grinder?????
Why take the teeth off the machine in the first place????? 
I don't recommend that to any one!


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## 2treeornot2tree

I couldn't seem to find green wheels to fit anything but a bench grinder.

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## 2treeornot2tree

Do 6 of have a link where to buy those green wheels you speak of?

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## Eq Broker

2treeornot2tree

Stick with the diamond wheel as the longevity lasts a lot longer than a green wheel. From my experience a diamond wheel should do about 500 re-sharpenings or more.

Hope this helps!

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters


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## 2treeornot2tree

Yeah i have one but it's only a 1/4" wide so it's hard to get a nice edge on the teeth

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## swaney

Eq Broker said:


> 2treeornot2tree
> 
> Stick with the diamond wheel as the longevity lasts a lot longer than a green wheel. From my experience a diamond wheel should do about 500 re-sharpenings or more.
> 
> Hope this helps!
> 
> Dave
> Global Equipment Exporters


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## swaney

Dave, do you sale diamond wheels their at Global Equipment? Also is the company near Atlanta?


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## 2treeornot2tree

Global is on the north outskirts of Atlanta. I don't know if they have the wheels for sale or not

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## Fairbanks Stump

The green wheel is made of Silicon carbide! .... Synthetic diamond! I have used mine for 4 years I just swapped to a new wheel last week my new river disk gets 36 of the teeth sharpened every other night I would safely say that I have sharpened over 12,000 teeth with the wheel and it cost me 80 dollars 
Pretty worth it I'd say 
Diamond is good to it just costs more and I can't speak to how long they last


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## 2treeornot2tree

Fairbanks Stump said:


> The green wheel is made of Silicon carbide! .... Synthetic diamond! I have used mine for 4 years I just swapped to a new wheel last week my new river disk gets 36 of the teeth sharpened every other night I would safely say that I have sharpened over 12,000 teeth with the wheel and it cost me 80 dollars
> Pretty worth it I'd say
> Diamond is good to it just costs more and I can't speak to how long they last


Do you have a link to where you bought your wheel?

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## Fairbanks Stump

Unfortunately I bought mine from Alpine machine you'll have to contact them


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## 2treeornot2tree

Fairbanks Stump said:


> Unfortunately I bought mine from Alpine machine you'll have to contact them


Is that alpine machine in new Hampshire? 

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## Fairbanks Stump

No he is in a little town south of Olympia Washington 
This is what a new wheel looks like if you can find one else where I'd in courage you to do so! There are plenty of mmfgrs that make them I found a few on a google search you just need to call and talk to people


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## mikeboyer

My own personal setup is a Vac and or Blower plus half face Respirator for Safety--This is ESSENTIAL!--and with a big airgun and a few custom fabbed depth gauges I can swap teeth on my 76HP tow behind in 10 minutes or less. Even less time on the RG50 or the little 25HP "Promark" based custom. I buy CAMEL brand green wheels from MSG mainly (machine tool supply), 8" Dia., 36 GRIT---Go rough, we aren't sharpening tools for the Southbend or the Bridgeport here. First you Dress your Grey wheel (with a Diamond single point) to a keen corner in order to grind away (Back Grind) the steel supporting the carbide enough so that when you grind the Carbide itself, you won't be grinding steel as well. If you execute this setup correctly, you can quickly rotate "New"or "Newer" to the high pockets on the powerful machine(s), and the re-sharps to the smaller machines all while maintaining the hierarchy of "Healthiest" teeth in the most demanding locations, and the most re-sharpened (half or more even) relegated to the lowest pockets on the smallest machine. I've also found that Proteeth by Rayco outcut anything else on the Big Dog, but not by enough to justify the price to me. 
Sharp teeth really are important, running dull isn't just slow, it will beat up your bearings, shafts, turntable etc. Running dull is False economy. Also, if you can't find the 36 grit, go for the 46 grit, Either one will cut SO Much faster than the 180 or 240 grit or whatever wheel they might try to sell you--that's toolroom stuff, we don't need super fine surface finish. Diamond wheels are fine as well, but the same rules apply--Grind carbide ONLY-not the steel (or you'll clog/rapid wear it) and chase down the Coarsest grit you can. Still, the cost of diamond doesn't pay off in speed or lifespan over the "Grey wheel/Green wheel" Setup. That's my .02, but I've been at it for around 20 years and have converted a few people along the way. I've also Brazed on replacement carbides where the steel was healthy enough to support it--Rayco Proteeth mainly.
Depending on your local flavor of dirt, it may pay to hardface the leading edge of your pockets--I've done that as well, and weighed them to avoid a balance problem but found that it really wasn't needed (weighing that is).
We've got a lot of Scrub Pine here in Jersey--on the north edge of the Pine Barrens(!) and even the biggest machine with dull teeth will look like you're trying to cut a Truck tire with a Ball Pein Hammer. Also, if you can't find the coarse wheels listed, call around and ask, Camel is from Israel (one's I've gotten) and they're worth the special order.
I've tried the hand grinder on the machine deal and it just isn't as quick or easy as a proper shop work station setup, and most days I only change out the highest teeth-the next row down sometimes every 5th time and so forth. Beyond that, I keep the bearings greased, have spares on the shelf and on the small machine I've found the 15 dollar chinese bearings last just as long as the 100 dollar Timkens. Big machine, different story, but do shop around, i recently bought 4 double row 2 15/16" pillow block bearings for $186/ea, Link-Belt branded Timken, but I also was quoted over $500/ea for the same part from the dealer(!) 
We've got really sandy dirt here, so we try not to drag it into the cut as much as can be avoided if it's a big stump and we have to use the small portable, but eventually it's pretty much unavoidable...And the one last thing is that I always use Loctite bearing mount when setting new bearings. I've never had shaft wear when 620 Stud n bearing mount is applied, BUT--the trick is to be sure you have a fast clean shot to the correct landing spot on the shaft-it sets quick and you pretty much need some real heat to get them loose once they set. Yup, I'm "AR", but I hope I helped someone, Regards, Mike


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## stormchaser

Cupocoffee said:


> I am interested in finding someone to professionally sharpen my stump grinder teeth. I have a Carlton SP 7015 with the Razor wheel. New teeth are $15 each. Carlton will sharpen for $4.75 but they send them out and I would have to pay shipping to Carlton, I would pay shipping to and from the sharpener, and then I would pay shipping back to me. So, you can see, there is a lot just tied up in shipping four different times. Even with all the shipping costs, it will save quite a bit if I pay Carlton to job this out. Who knows a good tooth sharpener. I don't want to sharpen the teeth myself.


*I CAN SHARPEN YOU TEETH CUPOCOFFEE I HAVE A STUMP GRINDER TEETH SHARPENING SERVICE IN dEATSVILLE AL. IVE BEEN SHARPENING A FEW YEARS FOR MY GRINDERS AND DESIDED TO OPEN UP A DAVIDSHARPENING BUSINESS I USE SURFACE GRINDERS FOR FAST TOOTH SHARPENING SO CALL ME AT 334-201-0361 ILL HAVE A WEB SITE UP IN A FEW DAYS .... CALL ME AT 334-201-0361*


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## stormchaser

beastmaster said:


> I think lots of people don't like to sharpen their own teeth because they use those green wheels. A diamond wheel makes quick work of carbide.


WHY SIT OUT ALDAY AN SHARPEN YOUR TEETH WHEN YOU CAN PAY SOMEONE ELSE TO DO IT....IM SURE YOU LOVE TO BE DOING SOMETHING ELSE WITH YOUR FAMILYS OR FISHING .. THATS SET UP FOR SHARPENING STUMP GRINDER TEETH FAST AN WE CAN DO JUST THAT VERY FAST SHARPENING TEETH SERVICE WE DONT USE GREEN WHEELS CALL US @ 334-201-0361 DAVIDSHARPENINGSERVICE THANKS IM DAVID


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## mikeboyer

I'll say it again, Keeping Sharp teeth on (at least) the primary-"Highest" pockets Goes A LONG way towards extending the life/avoiding problems elsewhere on the machine. The money saved on Bearings, Belts/drive-train and just General damage imparted by "Hammering" with dull teeth as opposed to "Cutting" with Sharp teeth just can't be Underestimated--Even the Trade-in/Resale will be markedly higher on a well kept machine, since most Aren't well-kept.
Here in Jersey we have Sand and soft Pine, so what works here may be somewhat different than what works elsewhere, But I would encourage Anyone in the Business to treat Stumper Teeth the same as you would your Chainsaw Chain, or ANY cutting tool, These "Cutting Tools" are your main "Money makers", Learn how to Sharpen them for your conditions, and Keep them sharp!


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## 2treeornot2tree

Don't pay someone to sharpen your teeth when it's easy to do it yourself.


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## BC WetCoast

Does anybody know of someone who has a stump grinder teeth sharpening buisness. One where I can get teeth back within 2 days?


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## 2treeornot2tree

david moody said:


> i have a sharpening service for all types of stump grinder teeth we are very fast we get them back inside 2 weeks and faster GREEN TEETH AND SAN-VIK TEETH ..AFTER WE HAVE THESE TEETH IN OUR SHOP WITH IN 2 DAYS THERE ON THERE WAQY BACK TO YOU u can ship in a 15.00 flat rate box from us mail u send me 100.00 worth teeth to sharpen ill send them back postage paid ill have my web site up in a week of 2 i have a stump grinding web page u an get my cell number there 3.00 each as long as you dont round them over to bad.... up to 1.00 more for badly worn teeth we dont use green wheels we use surface grinders and diamond wheels ....our teeth never get hot we use coolant to sharpen with 334-201-0361


I sharpen and also retirement my sandvik teeth myself!


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## 2treeornot2tree

david moody said:


> .....................wetcoast at davidsharpeningservice we sent ur teeth out the next day after getting them into our shop freight paid if u send us 100.00 in teeth to sharpen 15,00 flat rate up to 70 pounds through the us mail 3.00 per tooth im david id be glad to talk to you about this so please give me a call......334-201-0361


Are you a sit sponsor?


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## 2treeornot2tree

That guy is you. I can retipped my teeth for $4 a piece. I ha entry had any teeth break prematurely from sharpening without coolent.


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## 2treeornot2tree

raymond david said:


> WHEN YOU USE A BENCH GRINDER YOU NOT USING COOLANT TO COOL DOWN YOUR TEETH MAKES THEM BREAK FASTER THAT DUDE AT DAVIDSHARPENINGSERVICE 334-201-0361 USES COOLANT TO SHARPEN TEETH WITH ....I ALSO TALKED TO HIM LAST WEEK AN HE HAD TOLD ME HE WOULD SELL HIS BUSINESS IF ANYONE WANTED TO SHARPEN TEETH SO GIVE HIM A CALL IF YOUR TIRED OF GRINDING STUMPS I HAVE A FRIEND UP NORTH MAKING OVER 500K A YR. SHARPENING TEETH DONT KNOW WHY THIS DUDE WANTS OUT BUT ILL BET HE HAS A GOOD REASON 334-201-0361


He wants out because he iant.making any money


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## jefflovstrom

We don't sharpen or have them sent out to sharpen. Beat them to death and replace with new. To me, trying to save money by sharpening is like a dime holding up a dollar.
Jeff


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## mikeboyer

Sharpening depends on a few things. IF the machine is small, and low powered, then dull teeth will really slow it down. Also, trying to grind a scrub Pine (any South Jersey Pine), with a small light machine with dull teeth is about like trying to cut up an old truck tire with a sledgehammer! In other words, it's an exercise in futility!
A heavier, High powered machine can get away with grinding with dull teeth, and I've always used the fastest machine I can for the job, but there are those occasions where the 25HP self propelled machine was the only one that could access a certain spot. With a machine that gets used rarely, and only 6 pairs of teeth on the wheel, Sharpening is a sensible option. The other exception might be "Pro-teeth", and there I braze on new inserts. If you're set-up right, Brazing is quicker than sharpening, and the Rayco Pro-teeth are worth at least 1 re-tip before replacement.
Regarding "Heat" and sharpening, well I can tell you that you can't braze with a candle!


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## blades

It is a localized heat when grinding vs/ overall when brazing. Coolant is nice, few people would have that option themselves. I would guess that 90% of any sharpening is done free hand on green or black silicon carbide wheels/ very messy. As the tips become rounded the tooth must be relieved below the cutting edge junction of carbide and steel, simply trying to get an edge back by grinding down the carbide only with a diamond wheel generally would leave the carbide to thin and result in breakage when used. Yes I sharpen them commercially sure isn't a favorite job - I can replace tips as well which is simpler but still requires grinding so that the carbide is not hanging out past the steel support or it will just snap off. Very dull teeth on any machine causes undue stress to drive train, use of a lot more fuel, and just plain takes longer- time is money.


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## mikeboyer

Yup, back grind the steel, goto 8" for 46grit or 12" for 36 grit. Big tool grinder wheel, beyond what most will ever buy. I got a setup years ago from a tool/die shop selloff, complete with a HEPA vac and dozens of coarse wheels-never mind all the fine ones I'll never use. And yes it's messy and just not worth it for the most part. Perhaps the sandy soil here is a factor, but I never had heat related fails on any teeth I sharpened.
*Most Important* anyone considering grinding-ALL SKIN and LUNGS Must Be protected from Carbide grinding dust!!! If you don't know how Deadly the dust is-Don't even consider grinding!!!


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## 2treeornot2tree

raymond david said:


> davidsharpeningservice 334-201-0361 that guy sharpens all types of teeth we have sent him 4 different types of teeth an he has sharpened them perfectly


Maybe you two are of the same person?


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## Chris Weaver

mikeboyer said:


> My own personal setup is a Vac and or Blower plus half face Respirator for Safety--This is ESSENTIAL!--and with a big airgun and a few custom fabbed depth gauges I can swap teeth on my 76HP tow behind in 10 minutes or less. Even less time on the RG50 or the little 25HP "Promark" based custom. I buy CAMEL brand green wheels from MSG mainly (machine tool supply), 8" Dia., 36 GRIT---Go rough, we aren't sharpening tools for the Southbend or the Bridgeport here. First you Dress your Grey wheel (with a Diamond single point) to a keen corner in order to grind away (Back Grind) the steel supporting the carbide enough so that when you grind the Carbide itself, you won't be grinding steel as well. If you execute this setup correctly, you can quickly rotate "New"or "Newer" to the high pockets on the powerful machine(s), and the re-sharps to the smaller machines all while maintaining the hierarchy of "Healthiest" teeth in the most demanding locations, and the most re-sharpened (half or more even) relegated to the lowest pockets on the smallest machine. I've also found that Proteeth by Rayco outcut anything else on the Big Dog, but not by enough to justify the price to me.
> Sharp teeth really are important, running dull isn't just slow, it will beat up your bearings, shafts, turntable etc. Running dull is False economy. Also, if you can't find the 36 grit, go for the 46 grit, Either one will cut SO Much faster than the 180 or 240 grit or whatever wheel they might try to sell you--that's toolroom stuff, we don't need super fine surface finish. Diamond wheels are fine as well, but the same rules apply--Grind carbide ONLY-not the steel (or you'll clog/rapid wear it) and chase down the Coarsest grit you can. Still, the cost of diamond doesn't pay off in speed or lifespan over the "Grey wheel/Green wheel" Setup. That's my .02, but I've been at it for around 20 years and have converted a few people along the way. I've also Brazed on replacement carbides where the steel was healthy enough to support it--Rayco Proteeth mainly.
> Depending on your local flavor of dirt, it may pay to hardface the leading edge of your pockets--I've done that as well, and weighed them to avoid a balance problem but found that it really wasn't needed (weighing that is).
> We've got a lot of Scrub Pine here in Jersey--on the north edge of the Pine Barrens(!) and even the biggest machine with dull teeth will look like you're trying to cut a Truck tire with a Ball Pein Hammer. Also, if you can't find the coarse wheels listed, call around and ask, Camel is from Israel (one's I've gotten) and they're worth the special order.
> I've tried the hand grinder on the machine deal and it just isn't as quick or easy as a proper shop work station setup, and most days I only change out the highest teeth-the next row down sometimes every 5th time and so forth. Beyond that, I keep the bearings greased, have spares on the shelf and on the small machine I've found the 15 dollar chinese bearings last just as long as the 100 dollar Timkens. Big machine, different story, but do shop around, i recently bought 4 double row 2 15/16" pillow block bearings for $186/ea, Link-Belt branded Timken, but I also was quoted over $500/ea for the same part from the dealer(!)
> We've got really sandy dirt here, so we try not to drag it into the cut as much as can be avoided if it's a big stump and we have to use the small portable, but eventually it's pretty much unavoidable...And the one last thing is that I always use Loctite bearing mount when setting new bearings. I've never had shaft wear when 620 Stud n bearing mount is applied, BUT--the trick is to be sure you have a fast clean shot to the correct landing spot on the shaft-it sets quick and you pretty much need some real heat to get them loose once they set. Yup, I'm "AR", but I hope I helped someone, Regards, Mike


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## Chris Weaver

Thanks for this Post Mike, This is what I have been thinking as far as sharpening goes. I just bought a machine to clear my fields and now the phone is ringing for me to work other peoples fields. My machine came w/ two 5 gallon buckets of used teeth from the original owner. many may not be worth the effort... but I intend to get the wheels you are using as they were already on my radar and I'll spend a few long evenings at the grinder.
I would ask that if you or anyone else is in the mode... to video your setup and a few teeth being sharpened.
Thanks

As much as the internet is a blessing and a wealth of information, it is very refreshing to see so many who are unabashed at sharing information. There is plenty of work out there... unfortunately in today's climate there seems to be few who have the initiative to get up and take on the load... divulging trade "secrets" is not as hamstringing as it was when the American drive was stronger.


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## mikeboyer

Thanks Chris, Basically you just want to replicate the angles of new teeth. You want to grind away the steel along the braze line (sideways, so to speak), and then grind the carbide perpendicular to that (in the direction of the cut). I use an 8" grinder, but bigger is always better (more expensive) So a 10" would be faster, but at what cost? Just be sure NOT to breath or wear that dust! Treat it like Asbestos! It's bad news! I've used a powerful blower outside in nice weather, or a dedicated shop vac that sucks the dust outside in the cold (respirator also in that case). "Ring" your wheels before mounting (a hidden crack will make a "clunk"), and stand aside for a minute when you first power up a new wheel.
Good to see you've got the work, Regards, Mike
P.S. Ringing is just supporting the wheel through the center with a screwdriver or similar, and then lightly tapping it on the side towards the outer edge with a hammer handle (hard wood) or similar. Ring Good; Clunk Bad


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## USS Stump Destroyer

Cupocoffee said:


> I am interested in finding someone to professionally sharpen my stump grinder teeth. I have a Carlton SP 7015 with the Razor wheel. New teeth are $15 each. Carlton will sharpen for $4.75 but they send them out and I would have to pay shipping to Carlton, I would pay shipping to and from the sharpener, and then I would pay shipping back to me. So, you can see, there is a lot just tied up in shipping four different times. Even with all the shipping costs, it will save quite a bit if I pay Carlton to job this out. Who knows a good tooth sharpener. I don't want to sharpen the teeth myself.


Don't know if you've ever tried Bucktooth teeth but their new mini teeth are what I have retro-fitted my Bandit 3400. They last more than twice as long, meaning no sharpening, just run them and when they're done, scrap 'em in the steel recycle. But they are a tough teeth. No more sharpening and shipping back and forth hassle.$$. They're about $15.85 each. You have to have a wheel made by them but it was well worth it in the long run. Just a thought.


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## JeffGu

David Billy Bob recommends Billy Bob David at Bobby David Billy's sharpening service, located just outside of Skunk Ape Hills, Alabama. Not affiliated with Billy Bob David's world famous monkey suit in a bathtub bigfoot hoaxes and stump grinder teeth sharpening service, and this recommendation is given without monetary compensation or promises of cheap moonshine. Free UFO rides for the kids! Genuine Sasquatch Teeth and Possum Innards for sale in the gift shop.


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## All Sharp And Grind LLC

flushcut said:


> Monroe Rapid edge in Monroe MI. There is a AS member called Blades and I know he sharpens.
> I bought a diamond wheel do my own it cost me $164 and I have over 200 yellow jacket sharpened with it and the wheel still looks new. The wheel has paid for itself over and over. Just sayin.





Cupocoffee said:


> I am interested in finding someone to professionally sharpen my stump grinder teeth. I have a Carlton SP 7015 with the Razor wheel. New teeth are $15 each. Carlton will sharpen for $4.75 but they send them out and I would have to pay shipping to Carlton, I would pay shipping to and from the sharpener, and then I would pay shipping back to me. So, you can see, there is a lot just tied up in shipping four different times. Even with all the shipping costs, it will save quite a bit if I pay Carlton to job this out. Who knows a good tooth sharpener. I don't want to sharpen the teeth myself.


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## GroundZero

flushcut said:


> Monroe Rapid edge in Monroe MI. There is a AS member called Blades and I know he sharpens.
> I bought a diamond wheel do my own it cost me $164 and I have over 200 yellow jacket sharpened with it and the wheel still looks new. The wheel has paid for itself over and over. Just sayin.


Do you only use a Dimond wheel? Or do you grind the metal away first with something else? 

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## PassionForTrees

Really depends on type of tooth. Green teeth just use wheel to sharpen teeth done. Rayco super teeth you need to grind away metal then the carbide. Hope that helps you. Wear a mask and blow dust away very bad breathing that stuff.


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## jefflovstrom

Dang you guy's,,
just keep an extra set to replace and throw the old ones away,
yeah, cost money, 
but that is how you make money, don't be cheap,
Jeff


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## blades

unfortunately those of us on the other side of the mountain range from you Jeff , have a completely different set of values than the left coast.


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## RideN

flushcut said:


> Monroe Rapid edge in Monroe MI. There is a AS member called Blades and I know he sharpens.
> I bought a diamond wheel do my own it cost me $164 and I have over 200 yellow jacket sharpened with it and the wheel still looks new. The wheel has paid for itself over and over. Just sayin.


May I ask what wheel you have specifically?


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## Mmtrapper13

Fairbanks Stump said:


> I've posted many times on here about this but here you go again
> I also have a 7015 a fenominal cutter I have the new river wheel but the cutting tips are basically the same.
> DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME CONTINUOUSLY REPACING/REMOVING THE TEETH!
> Here's what you need
> - A 4.5 grinder I like the rechargeable grinder like the DeWalt and 5 batteries if I tune the teeth up every night after 8 or so hours of grinding it takes 3.5 batteries if they are really rounded it takes 5
> - a green diamond wheel with a cutting surface that's about 1/2 inch wide I've seen them for sale on eBay or from Gabdon industries
> - a particulate mask
> - eye protection
> It is best to sharpen with the teeth still in the wheel because they are held fast and you can apply good pressure to them
> TIPS
> It is best to only sharpen the face of the tooth once you have the surface flat again make your edge by lightly grinding the top surface
> after you have sharpened the teeth 8-10 times they will start to badly round the corners so what I do is tip the wheel so I cut downward and make a 45 on the rounded edge in the same plane as the circumstance of the disk
> I generally get 30-40 sharpenings on my teeth before they are worn out or break off
> I've been using the same green wheel on my DeWalt grinder for 2.5 years and I will probably replace it this year
> I grind ~ 8-10,000 stumps a year with my Carlton I used to spend $2-3000 per year in new teeth now that I have been sharpening them on the machine I don't go through $500 .... Just a little time.
> It usually takes me 45-50 mins to sharpen all my teeth.
> Another tip is start using the Long shorts on your leading teeth it will dramatically reduce your wear on the wheel the pockets and the side holders!
> 
> I hope this helps


I’m definitely trying this on my razor tooth wheel on my Carlton


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## flushcut

Just to update this old thread I haven't sharpened teeth in several years, not worth my time. When I posted 7 years ago I had time now not so much. The wheel was from Eagle Super Abrasives 36grit.


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## Franklin318

Mmtrapper13 said:


> I’m definitely trying this on my razor tooth wheel on my Carlton





Mmtrapper13 said:


> I’m definitely trying this on my razor tooth wheel on my Carlton


Where can you find this disc?


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## Franklin318

Fairbanks Stump said:


> The green wheel is made of Silicon carbide! .... Synthetic diamond! I have used mine for 4 years I just swapped to a new wheel last week my new river disk gets 36 of the teeth sharpened every other night I would safely say that I have sharpened over 12,000 teeth with the wheel and it cost me 80 dollars
> Pretty worth it I'd say
> Diamond is good to it just costs more and I can't speak to how long they last


I cannot find the green diamond wheel for a 4 inch hand grinder. Any help would be appreciated.


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