# .050" or .063"



## mysawmyrules (Sep 17, 2008)

Over the last few months as time allowed I've been picking up components for a Alaskan Mill with that comes not checking what is showing up close enough. I've already used a 32" stihl .050" bar so that's mine and I have 4 loops of rip chain that came with 2 loops of 30 deg chain. The 30deg is .050 and the 10 deg is .063 so do I keep both around and just pick up a .063 bar or sell the chain and order the right stuff.

Holy cow I wrote that and I'm confused It come down to bar too small for chain should I up size bar or downsize chain. Or keep both.

Any opinions would be appreciated as I have no idea how either will work in this application. It will be in all softwoods spruce , pine and fir.

Thanks 
Jon W


----------



## timberwolf (Sep 17, 2008)

I'd just stick with the .050, 0.063 is not going to work any better, esp for milling. Keeps life simple.


----------



## mysawmyrules (Sep 18, 2008)

I was leaning that way wasn't sure if there was any advantage to milling with a .063 chain.
Thanks 
Jon W


----------



## pdqdl (Sep 18, 2008)

I don't do any milling, but the heavier gauge chain will outlast the lighter gauge. Since milling does not require rapid bursts of acceleration, but it does put a great deal of load on the chain drag links, I would probably stick to the heavier gauge if all you're doing is milling.


----------



## excess650 (Sep 18, 2008)

Unless its a hardnose, or solid end bar, you'll get about 27-28"" of width with that 32" bar on an Alaskan mill. A 36" Alaskan will allow about 33-1/2" width cut, but will need at least 40" of sprocket nosed bar. The point is to think about how large of logs you plan on cutting. If they are too big for the mill initially, they can be squared or quartered first, but it depends upon what you really want to end up with. The point is, don't make all of your milling plans around that one bar.


----------



## timberwolf (Sep 18, 2008)

All chains go through a lot of acceleration even when running at a steady RPM. Think of the chain as street where you head down the straight run, pull a U turn and run back the other way and pull another U turn. each time the chaim makes a U turn it must be accelerated through the turn and that takes energy. The more the chain weighs, the more energy it takes, and the tighter the chain must be run to keep it running tight to the rails. Chains wear out from cutters dulling and needing to be filed back not so much internally. .050 chain has .058 thick drive links thinned at the botom of the driver only to .050, .063 is only marginally thicker by a couple thousandths but for the full depth of the driver. tie straps on .063 chains are thicker, but so are they on some .050 chains (stihl RS comes to mind). But end of the day .063 chain is slightly wider as are the bars, this then makes a slightly wider kerf = more sawdust, less lumber and eats up more HP, fuel and time to do it. It has been well proven that .050 3/8 chain will stand up to milling with 100 pluc cc saws, and some people have even gone to .325 and 3/8 low pro chain with good results (thinner cuts and smother finish), though I have herd of some chain breakages.


----------



## Zodiac45 (Sep 18, 2008)

timberwolf said:


> I'd just stick with the .050, 0.063 is not going to work any better, esp for milling. Keeps life simple.



+1 agree. Keep it simple and stick with the .50. You've already got the bar for it. Allot cheaper to get a couple loops of 10 degree milling chain(if that's what you want too use) than to buy another bar for the .63. You could try the 30 degree that you already have (it will leave a bit rougher surface) and plane the boards or even change the 30 loop (s) too 10 or 15 degrees. If so do it slowly and over several passes. Me, I'd keep the 30 for bucking and buy a 10 degree for milling ans see which you like. The 30 will cut a bit faster but again leave a rougher surface.


----------



## slabmaster (Sep 21, 2008)

For milling .050 is all i use.It seems to be the best and your saw will thank you..063 is just too wide as Brian stated earlier and is slower cutting and harder on the saw.Anything smaller than .050 won't wear good on the bar requiring it to be dressed more often.I do mostly hardwood and .050 always works the best for me.


----------



## woodshop (Sep 22, 2008)

slabmaster said:


> For milling .050 is all i use.It seems to be the best and your saw will thank you..063 is just too wide as Brian stated earlier and is slower cutting and harder on the saw.Anything smaller than .050 won't wear good on the bar requiring it to be dressed more often.I do mostly hardwood and .050 always works the best for me.




I've milled both with .050 on my MS460 and .063 on my 395XP, and frankly don't see enough of a difference to notice it. As far as slightly more power needed and SLIGHTLY more kerf sawn with the .063 I have no doubt that is true, but it is so slight that I just can't see it. Main reason I use .063 for milling is because it was harder to find large .050 bars. They are available, but there are more .063 36 inch bars on the market than .050.


----------

