# I finally bit the bullet!!!



## irishcountry (Dec 20, 2007)

I was going to wait for spring but now that Baileys will be resricted to selling only over the counter I went ahead and ordered a husky 395xp. I have a few questions that I know will be addressed in the manual but I would like so advice from hands on guys that know from experience. First what is the best way to break in a saw (this one especially) for milling and how long does that take? Second is there a better gas/oil mix ratio after its broken in to ensure it won't overheat or be damaged since milling is more taxing on a powerhead and what octane gas is best. Third what kind of life span do you think I can get from this saw if it is taken care of properly assuming theres no defects to start with? I know you guys are probrobly tired of answering the same questions over and over and you have gotten this before but I do appreciate your time and knowledge. I have still been checking this site almost every day but I kinda tapered off on posting cuz I figured it was put up or shut up and now i'm gonna be most of the way there I now just need to decide on the mill type I think i'm gonna go GB since it looks a little sturdier. Well thanks to all that reply Happy Holidays take care!!


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## BobL (Dec 20, 2007)

While it sounds like a glib response, I would follow the manual that comes with the saw. That way if there are any issues you can rest easy inside yourself if there are issues and you have to make a warranty claim.

Life span - how long is a piece of string- basically it depends on treatment and extent of use.

Bring on the milling pics.


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## duffontap (Dec 20, 2007)

I was looking at those. I noticed that Baileys prices weren't as good on that model as on others. It looks like you can get the same powerhead with a bar and three chains for less at Norwalk than you can get the powerhead alone at Bailey's. Of course, those would be cross-cut chains and if this was a dedicated slabbing saw they may not make much difference to you. 

Did you get yours at Bailey's or elsewhere?

J. D.


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## irishcountry (Dec 20, 2007)

*395xp*

Hey thanks for the replys. BobL Yeah that crossed my mind I will follow that advise it seems that i've heard talk about rickening up saw when you mill to keep them from overheating that was my concern getting excited and over looking something that might not be in the manual but is well know from expiriences from millers!! I have a 455 rancher (ok for bucking but higher hopes for this more professional saw) and it doesn't mention octane of gas or mixing a little more oil for more taxing jobs just the basics so I am assuming that will be the same for the other huskys. I did buy it from Baileys didn't shop around a ton but I paid what a 385xp would have cost around here with a 20-or 24" bar forgot which I was quoted they didn't carry the 395 and thats what I asked about they seemed a little perplexed like they may have never seen one they just said well we have the 385. Oh well I am just excited and hope to have some pictures in the future maybe nothing too big or unusual I have 2 dead ash one was cut and I sealed the end the other still standing they will be good practice. Later this summer we have about 3 to 4 softmaples and maybe a couple large pines that are way too close to our home that should come down and I would love to make a big dining table out of some of that and we will be remodeling our second floor and I wanted to build a couple of timberframe entrys to the 2 main doors to our home I think it will tie all our dormers together well. I already know I have a couple of useful timberframe books under the tree and I will do lots of research on that this winter can't wait!! Again Happy Holidays Thanks!!


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## duffontap (Dec 20, 2007)

I'm looking forward to hearing what you think of it. I was looking at the 390xp today at my local shop just for fun and it was $1,010.00 with about a 28" Husky bar. Needless to say, you saved a lot of money buying it from Bailey's. Did you get the full wrap or half?

J. D.


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## BobL (Dec 20, 2007)

irishcountry said:


> Oh well I am just excited and hope to have some pictures in the future maybe nothing too big or unusual . . .



Nuthin wrong with that - we all share that sense of excitement.

Pictures much appreciated when you're ready! opcorn:


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## irishcountry (Dec 21, 2007)

*395xp*

Hey Duff I got the Half wrap I figured it would be my best choice as far as clearance for milling i'm just picturing it will cut lower to the log than a full wrap not sure but I guess i'll find out!! I will let you know what I think of the saws performance but I will be a newbie so my opinion will be just that. I will make sure to post some pics thats the least I can do since others posts have been my inspiration for the last I don't know how many months! I forgot I have some downed willow that will probrobly be better practice before I get to the ash since thats a good hardwood. Once I get set up I am going to talk to my wifes cousin, he owns 11 acres behind our house of nothing but woods its been logged in recent years but every time I look out our back window I see beams and posts that I may be able to mill and use for sprucing up our barn too. Like I said can't wait to get going!! Thanks again!!


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## woodshop (Dec 21, 2007)

irishcountry said:


> ... First what is the best way to break in a saw (this one especially) for milling and how long does that take? Second is there a better gas/oil mix ratio after its broken in to ensure it won't overheat or be damaged since milling is more taxing on a powerhead...



To say there are lots of differing opinions on these two questions would be a gross understatement. If you read through the threads over on the chainsaw section of this forum, you will find that there is at least a general consensus that chainsaw milling does work a saw hard, and thus it would not be a good idea to take a brand new one and run it full bore down a log for 10+ minutes a pop all day long. You can find dealers and mechanics that will tell you to turn it on and run it from day one as if it was 10 years old, but I just don't buy that. At least one of the guys over there that repairs chainsaws for a living (forget screen name) says to run many tankfuls of gas through it just cutting firewood or "normal" chainsaw work first before using it as a milling saw only. I stuck a shorter bar on my 395 when I first got it and ran it for a month or so just bucking etc before I put it in the mill. Many also will tell you to turn the HI screw out a quarter turn or so to richen up the mixture for milling. I'm not a chainsaw mechanic, so can't vouch for that, but I did it to mine and left it that way ever since. But then I have always run all my saws a little rich anyway. The "experts" will tell you that once you mix up a batch, the oil won't separate from the gas, and there is no need to shake it up any further once it's been mixed. I can't bring myself to do that... I still shake the container EVERY time before I pour it into my saws, just force of habit. If all it really does is make me feel good about doing it, that's enough of a reason for me to keep that habit. 

Fuel mixture ratio..... opcorn: opcorn: opcorn: opcorn: ...some of the more "colorful" and in depth threads over on that chainsaw forum deal with this issue. Check them out some day, some interesting reading. Bottom line is many of the guys run richer mixtures in their saws, especially when milling, myself included. Personally I use only Stihl or Husky mix, and I run 42:1 in all my saws but the 395 (milling), in which I run 32:1. Been doing that for years, gonna keep doing that. 'Nuf said. You do want to use midgrade or hi grade gas though... even the manual that comes with the saw will tell you that. You also want to avoid gas that has been sitting around a while, as it tends to take on water even from moist air. Personally, any mix I have that happens to get more than a month old gets dumped into my car or van. That little bit of mix oil doesn't make any difference at all in your vehicle when mixed in with the gas already in your cars tank. 

How long will your saw last????? Thats like asking how long will your car last... depends on how much you use it and whether you take care of it. Keep it clean (debris out of the cooling fins) and keep filter clean (including fuel filter in the tank)... keep chains sharp so it doesn't have to work it's heart out cutting through the wood, and feed it only quality mix, and it will last tens of years under normal (non professional) use. When I worked as a logger for a pulpwood company, we rarely got 4 seasons out of a saw, but those saws were in use all day, every day. My Dad has a Stihl 036 that has been in use semi-weekly if not weekly for over 20 years. Miles of chain, many a spark plug/filters, many a bar and couple changes of rope pull, but it still has tons of compression and works like a charm. I'm sure you can find others in the forum with similar experiences.


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## irishcountry (Dec 21, 2007)

*Thank You!*

Thats the info I was looking for! I will probrobly richen it up too if it doesn't hurt the saw why not and like you said shaking the gas only takes a second or two and if it makes you feel better why not. I'm hoping to get some good life out of this baby an I will make sure I take good care of it but I know like you said with cars sometimes theirs a gremlin and things just go wrong I guess at least their should be parts for this saw for a long time. Thanks for the info that was what I was looking for. Happy Holidays


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## Marmaduck (Dec 21, 2007)

irishcountry said:


> First what is the best way to break in a saw (this one especially) for milling and how long does that take? Second is there a better gas/oil mix ratio after its broken in to ensure it won't overheat or be damaged since milling is more taxing on a powerhead and what octane gas is best.



You know by now these are some "loaded" questions, but I had/have the exact same questions. Here are some add'l data points.

I just got my 395 and my manual says nothng about break-in. I haven't turned out the HI screw yet but likely will based on Woodshop's expertise.

I plan to run several tanks of gas through my 395 before milling. Some say 10, some say 20, and some say "run it like you stole it from the start". We'll see how many tanks I can run through it before I can't stand it and *HAVE* to mill.  

I'm running 40:1 in all my saws and have started using Premium fuel based on info. here. I also use Sta-bil if it will sit for more than a couple of weeks.

My current milling saw is the 570. I bought it used and ugly from a landscaping crew who used it for Katrina clean-up. A local Mech. set me up with new plug/air filter and checked it out in general. It's been doing great since...probably 5 gal. of fuel so far with no issues...exclusively milling, BTW.


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## irishcountry (Dec 21, 2007)

Thanks for the additional info I was afraid there would be no mention of break in in the manual thats why I asked here! I am going to be in the same boat as far as how many tanks till I can't stand it anymore. I just ran some erands and must say in all my years living here I have never seen so much downed wood around here. A company came through and cleared around the lines this last summer and the peices I been eyeballing are still where they started out!! Then again maybe I am just paying attention now that I am getting a mill!! Thanks for the reply


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## woodshop (Dec 21, 2007)

Marmaduck said:


> ...I plan to run several tanks of gas through my 395 before milling. Some say 10, some say 20, and some say "run it like you stole it from the start". We'll see how many tanks I can run through it before I can't stand it and *HAVE* to mill.  ...



I can understand not wanting to wait... I have to say the only way I was able to was that I had another large saw (MS460) that was holding the door while I broke in my 395. Hey... it's a well designed saw built to run hard and keep doing that day after day. If I were in your shoes, I'd mill with it right away as long as I did "light" milling... say 12 inch wide cants or less, short runs taking a break between boards. Again, I'm no chainsaw mechanic, but from what I have read here and in the chainsaw forum, it's the long 12-15 min nonstop wide open throttle working hard the whole time that might not be the best thing for the saw right out of the box.


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## BobL (Dec 21, 2007)

woodshop said:


> If I were in your shoes, I'd mill with it right away as long as I did "light" milling... say 12 inch wide cants or less, short runs taking a break between boards. Again, I'm no chainsaw mechanic, but from what I have read here and in the chainsaw forum, it's the long 12-15 min nonstop wide open throttle working hard the whole time that might not be the best thing for the saw right out of the box.



Yep - that's what I would do, Buck some soft 12" stuff to about 3ft or 18" stuff to 2ft and get familiar with setiing up the mill, practice your stops and starts and getting square cants etc before you try the bigger longer stuff.


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## zopi (Dec 21, 2007)

in breaking in an engine, you are (mostly) seating the piston rings...I will never buy opening an engine up to WOT right out of the box...it really should 
be run under a light and varying loads and rpms for, say, a tank of gas,
before it is exposed to high heat/rpm/load of milling..when i get my 660 
next week, I am going to demolish a tree for firewood...then I will 
whack those big pine butt logs, and then maybe some harder stuff. hopefully not in the same day.. 

kinda like me getting right out of bed in the morning and running five miles without warming up...sure I can do it..but why would I want to..it's gonna hurt.


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## duffontap (Dec 21, 2007)

You've really got me thinking about break-in so here's what I think I'd do:

I have never heard this applied to chainsaws but one of the most common things that is said about breaking engines in is frequently changing the load. This is where long, continuous cuts would be counterproductive. On the other hand, I think your Husky manual will say that you should always cut at full throttle (that is how a high-rpm engine likes to operate). Running a chainsaw loaded down without letting it wrap up may not be the best thing for it right out of the box. Cutting some small-diameter firewood would allow the saw to go from idle to max rpms over and over without loading down the engine. It may not be a bad idea. 

I read some of the older threads about mix ratios--very interesting!

J. D.


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## zopi (Dec 21, 2007)

As I understand it, seating the rings and running in bearings should be done under varying loads and speeds, because of the changes in frequency and pressure on the bearing surfaces themselves...guy that explained it to me was a double Phd physicist and gearhead...so I only understood about five words of it...much like russian...unless i'm drunk..then i'm fluent.. 

hmm...gotta look into that..

Quote from Stihl MS 290 manual..."factory new machine should not be run at high revs (full throttle off load) for the first three tank fillings. this avoids unnecessary high loads during the break in period. as all moving parts have to bed during break in, the frictional resistances in the engine are greater during this period. the engine develops it's maximum horsepower after about 5 to 15 tank fillings.

poorly written but there it is... 

love that smilie.


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## TheKid (Dec 21, 2007)

awesome post irish. was just in the process of logging on to ask the SAME question! great responses all.


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## irishcountry (Dec 21, 2007)

*great posts*

Thanks again for all the info it will come in useful now and down the road for anyone in the same situation with a new saw I knew I asked in the right place. I'm just hoping I have hair by the time my saw gets here I can't wait!! Merry Christmas to all!!


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## duffontap (Dec 22, 2007)

While you wait, you should download the manual--it says a couple things about break-in in the carb section. The carb is set rich at the factory for break-in. After 8-10 tanks of gas they recommend professional adjustment. 

http://www.theusermanualsite.com/manuals/mfg/husqvarna/husqvarna_gas_chainsaw_product_list_3.html

J. D.


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## Matildasmate (Dec 22, 2007)

irishcountry said:


> I was going to wait for spring but now that Baileys will be restricted to selling only over the counter I went ahead and ordered a husky 395xp. I have a few questions that I know will be addressed in the manual but I would like so advice from hands on guys that know from experience. First what is the best way to break in a saw (this one especially) for milling and how long does that take? Second is there a better gas/oil mix ratio after its broken in to ensure it won't overheat or be damaged since milling is more taxing on a power-head and what octane gas is best. Third what kind of life span do you think I can get from this saw if it is taken care of properly assuming there's no defects to start with? I know you guys are probably tired of answering the same questions over and over and you have gotten this before but I do appreciate your time and knowledge. I have still been checking this site almost every day but I kinda tapered off on posting cuz I figured it was put up or shut up and now i'm gonna be most of the way there I now just need to decide on the mill type I think i'm gonna go GB since it looks a little sturdier. Well thanks to all that reply Happy Holidays take care!!



Hi Irish ..... I was just reading your post , I have stihl saw's and they recommend using their brand oil at , I think it was 50/1 , I haven't had a look for a long time and any competitor's oil at 25/1 , I don't care who's oil it is , I run my saw's at 25/1 anyway . That comment about over the counter sale's , can you tell me what that relate's to? because I buy a bit of gear from them . Is that just Husky saw's or other stuff to? . Cheer's MM


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## irishcountry (Dec 23, 2007)

*Baileys*

Morning (at least here it is)!! Yeah as far as I know this only pertains to Husky saws didn't see or hear anything else and as far as I know the operator I talked to said they were still going to carry and ship parts just not the complete saws. Hope all is well keep the post coming nice wood on your other post!!! Take care mate!!


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## irishcountry (Dec 23, 2007)

*Link*

Hey Duff thanks for the link I will download it right after I log out. Thanks


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## 1953greg (Dec 23, 2007)

*irish*

here are 3 hidden enemies for your new saw

1. bad/stale fuel
2. foreign debris through the filter
3. and heat

and they can and must all be controlled

when ambient temps are <60*f i have no problem keeping the engine cool enough for continous milling. but when temps get above bout 70 then i have to take breaks for cooldown. sometimes i even used compressed air to cool down the engine. 
remember this next summer and happy milling


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## dustytools (Dec 23, 2007)

Just to add a bit, Its good on the saw to let it idle for a bit after a long cut before switching it off. This helps to cool the saw.


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## irishcountry (Dec 27, 2007)

*update*

Just a update got my saw today its a thing of beauty!! Can't wait to get it dirty gotta order a mill (probrobly GB) and a shorter bar for crosscutting and milling smaller stuff all I have for it right now is a GB 36" and a box of their ripping chain (100FT>roll hope it works well) that I have to get made to the right sizes any suggestions on a good middle bar size to pull double duty?? Any one ever use GB chain (maybe aggiewood?)As for the bar I was thinking 24" but I already have a rancher with a 20" bar so maybe 28" would make more sense!! And by the way I asked about octane of gas it says in the manual any gas over 90RON i'm assuming thats octane it mentioned for long running continuous RPM's like limbing (milling) its better to use higher octane gas. Just throwing it out there. Thanks again for all the responses I will post some picks when I get up and running may be a bit yet though. Hope everyones holidays were great and you all have a happy new year!


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## Sawyer Rob (Dec 27, 2007)

You guys are killing me, i'd love to have a 395, but it doesn't look like it will ever happen...  I'm afraid it's more of a "want" than a "need"...

Rob


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## zopi (Dec 27, 2007)

irishcountry said:


> long running continuous RPM's like limbing (milling) its better to use higher octane gas.



True...higher octane fuel is ignite with greater difficulty for lack of terms...doesn't 'splode as easily...burns slower, hence engine runs smoother and cooler...with maybe a slight cost in HP...but I'll take reliable over big HP
anyday...

My truck notwithstanding...but then it's a diesel, so I can be a power hog if I want..:greenchainsaw: 

Congrats on the getting the saw...


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## rayvil01 (Dec 28, 2007)

Irishcountry,
We're on parallel paths here. My neighbor was admiring my new saw yesterday evening. So he calls me over to show me this beautiful, straight Pine log that we wants to mill. Fortunately, the wife was with me. Fortunately, we had all had a beer or two. _("I totally don't get this. You could go the lumber yard and buy wood. It must be a 'Man thing'...but, go have a ball.") _So this morning I ordered the 30" Granberg mill, and the bar and Bailey's chains to go with it. I'm sure some day I'll wish it was 36"...but this seemed like the right length at the moment.

Hope you enjoy the new saw and mill. I'll post pics in a week or so after the mill arrives and I go rip this log.

After reading many of the mixture posts,  I think I'm going with this all-synthetic STIHL Ultra oil, and run it at 40:1 instead of 50:1. I like the "More is more" school while at the same time the synthetic should minimize deposits. 

Thanks for all the information.


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## irishcountry (Dec 28, 2007)

Hey zopi I didn't know that higher octane would run cooler good info thanks!! I think I will use a little higher just to be safe. rayvil01 Awesome I would love to be out this weekend but I gotta wait to order the rest of my stuff Dec. is a killer we have presents to buy for 3 birthdays and then Christmas I gotta get rid of a guitar to fund this hobby but I can't wait till it all comes together!! Have a beer for me too!! I'm sure it goes down better after some milling maybe just not before HA! My wife is trying to be understanding about all this she has a pretty good concept of what I want to do but I think most people just think why wouldn't you just go put that money towards wood at the lumberyard or seems like alot of work for a few peices of wood but what they don't consider is some of the wood you can mill yourself is not even available to buy at the lumberyard and the amount you can mill would cost a small fortune to buy, then theirs also the sentimental aspect of being able to say this tree was from the woods or yard and now its a table that may be able to be passed down for years to come in your family or to freinds, to me thats priceless in a world of oh just throw it away and new one only costs X amount of dollars not enough heirlooms around anymore I am hoping to change that in our family of course I am still trying to convince my with into a timberframe dinner table and bedset?!!? Well see!! Can't wait for the pics!! Happy New Year!


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## zopi (Dec 28, 2007)

Oh boy...you got bit hard huh? oh well, I can understand...kinda like me with a shiny new airbrush.. (I paint bikes as a side bizznizz..) 

I know what you mean about timber frame furniture...I love massive pieces of architectural wood, and I am planning a timber canopy bed..and to reinforce the floors under our bedroom..

Higher octane gas should run a bit cooler..god knows it does in my Harley..it is probably not necessary to run premium tho'...you do want to be careful of one thing though...if you are buying mid grade or premium be sure to only buy from really busy stations...slow places don't sell much high octane and it will often get a bit stale...then you have varnish issues and power issues, plus the fact that you paid whole milk price for sour skim milk..so to speak..

Varnish sucks..particularly in air cooled engines, something to do with 
faster temperature cycles...something else my egghead guru of old babbled about and I understood little of...but I can turn a wrench...

Sure..get rid of the guitar...then getcha a nice piece of walnut from somewhere and pick up a telecaster (best stick on the planet...except for the 1968 Fender Wildwood..) kit from some luthier supply...quartersaw the 
walnut and make yerself a new one...<G> damn that would be pretty..inlay a strip of holly right along the axis of the switchplate..and name the guitar "Buddy"  





irishcountry said:


> Hey zopi I didn't know that higher octane would run cooler good info thanks!! I think I will use a little higher just to be safe. rayvil01 Awesome I would love to be out this weekend but I gotta wait to order the rest of my stuff Dec. is a killer we have presents to buy for 3 birthdays and then Christmas I gotta get rid of a guitar to fund this hobby but I can't wait till it all comes together!! Have a beer for me too!! I'm sure it goes down better after some milling maybe just not before HA! My wife is trying to be understanding about all this she has a pretty good concept of what I want to do but I think most people just think why wouldn't you just go put that money towards wood at the lumberyard or seems like alot of work for a few peices of wood but what they don't consider is some of the wood you can mill yourself is not even available to buy at the lumberyard and the amount you can mill would cost a small fortune to buy, then theirs also the sentimental aspect of being able to say this tree was from the woods or yard and now its a table that may be able to be passed down for years to come in your family or to freinds, to me thats priceless in a world of oh just throw it away and new one only costs X amount of dollars not enough heirlooms around anymore I am hoping to change that in our family of course I am still trying to convince my with into a timberframe dinner table and bedset?!!? Well see!! Can't wait for the pics!! Happy New Year!


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## irishcountry (Dec 29, 2007)

Yeah I got bit hard and I have yet to actually mill!! I still have my airbrushes got a pasche, a couple Iwatas and a couple Vegas another interesting hobby I actually like laying down paint too but I just realized I am just not a freehand artist but I have great respect for the guys that can. I did a few cool things with it like paint some large banners for local bands a Star Wars mural on my oldest sons wall ect. but what I really wanted to do was auto related stuff like car and motocycle tanks/helmets but like I said I would be limited to stencils and 3-d effects due to my lack of freehand skills. Tele's and Strats are cool I really like the sound of single coils very pronounced and clear can't get the SRV sound without them. Back when I was new to playing I built a guitar out of some mohogany I happened upon and I ordered some flamed maple from a luthier supply company out of CA Merchintile something or other expensive wood !! I call it my paul reed paul since its a combination of a les paul and a paul reed smith. The flames are beautiful (if I do say so myself its the wood not the woodworker!!) I stained it a darker green and inlayed the ebony fretboard with square pearl inlays it looks good but it needs work on the frets they are not perfectly level someday I will spend some time setting it up better. I am secretly hoping to chop into a log that screams I want to be a Gibson SG someday and build 1 more guitar. The timberframe thing is another interest to me I used to think log cabins were cool and they are done right but to me like you said the massive square timbers just hook you and its lots of wood to look at but not overdone just my opinion. I just got 2 books on timberframing for Christmas and have alot of reading and re-reading to catch it all. As of right now I want to put 2 timberframe entryway over our outside doors to spruce things up and tie them together we'll see if I can get it done next year gonna be busy with a 2nd floor remod but I see my neighbor has a very large dead Ash tree in her yard that is marked by the road commision to come down and if I can get my hands on it and its not punky im gonna be a beam making machine!! Thanks for the reply and have a happy new year!!


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