# LogLifterII



## BobL (Jan 11, 2010)

This was the plan.



Now here is the realization (before making it pretty so you can see it warts and all) but with new log end clamp.


Unlike a Hi-Lift jack on its own it stands up by itself quite well.

The unit breaks up into 3 bits for easier transport.
The Jack with nose/lifter adapter attached
The outrigger or base - long blue and brown thingo
The log end clamp - blue and black thingo


Blue stuff is 1.2" SHS
Brown is 1.6" angle
Black stuff is rounded corner 1.2" SHS

Here a close up of one of the outrigger feet.


The outrigger does not need to be very strong. As long as it is big enough, very little side force is needed to hold the jack in a vertical position provided it loaded in a vertical position.

Here's the log hooks and top clamp.


The welding looks bit dodgy but I'm confident it will hold
The hooks can rotate and open wider to grab up a log end that is on the ground so no clearing under the log to get a grip on it. The hook ends are double gusseted 1/8" steel plate so should be very strong. The top clamp position is movable vertically and unless the hooks are spread this is about the closest grip that can be created without packing.


The hooks can also be moved relative to the jack for extra lift/height.


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## BobL (Jan 11, 2010)

*Log lifterII part 2*

The black vertical post of the log clamp sits onto a fat square steel peg on the jack nose lifter adapter.


This positive engagement means the jack cannot slip out from under the log clamp. I also used square shanked bolt ends to reduce the need for two spanners when adjusting.

The top clamp uses a 3/4" bolt to grip the top of the log or cant. This is not really necessary but just adds a bit of insurance to the lifting process.


The position locking bolt is threaded direct into the back of the fat gusset.

I'm doing all this at home so this is the best demo I can do for now.
Will try and get to the yard in the next day or so for a better demo.



The biggest log this can tackle is ~36" and that is probably all the black SHS can handle.


If I think it is necessary I will get some stronger stuff and can make that piece a bit longer - I might also replace the hooks with solid bar. Once a log is over about 40" the best place to start milling that is on the ground.


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## danieltree (Jan 11, 2010)

I thought you were camping. That is a nice set up did you just build it.​


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## BobL (Jan 11, 2010)

danieltree said:


> I thought you were camping. That is a nice set up did you just build it.​



I was camping last week - I got back Saturday night.

I spent 3 hours on Sunday afternoon and 3 hours this evening making the log lifter. I had all of the steel on hand, the only things I had to buy were a couple of thin kerf cut off wheels and the bolts.

I estimate my DYI projects mean I'm working for about $5/hour but it's still way cheaper than therapy.


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## huskyhank (Jan 11, 2010)

Wow!

I thought I was doing well by having my version drawn up. 
BobL, you are fast.

I may have mine ready later this week. 
Pictures will follow.


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## BobL (Jan 11, 2010)

huskyhank said:


> Wow!
> 
> I thought I was doing well by having my version drawn up.
> BobL, you are fast.
> ...



Cheers HH. Things that speed up construction.

1) spend a long time thinking about how it all works first - By the time I get around to actual making I have the whole thing in my head from every angle without any or few written details. Leads to fewer mistakes etc 

2) Old wood work table saw with thin kerf metal cut off wheel allows me to rip or cross cut metal up to about 1" thick accurately, very little grinding needed.

3) Keep a good stock of bits and pieces around plus remember what you have and where they all are.

FInally, leave SWMBO at the camping ground - so no disruptions, "Hey honey, can you just take a look at this . . . . . "


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## SilverBox (Jan 12, 2010)

We need to see this bad boy in action!! You surely must have a 36" log around someplace..


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## stipes (Jan 12, 2010)

*Nice Bob!!!*

What I see is so great about that is where you have a log that is in a area that you cant get any other means to hook up too to lift it!!! Why I love CSMing too...Can go to remote place and a little setup can mill without movin the log..... TY Bob....


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## gemniii (Jan 12, 2010)

Bob - 
Excellent construction BUT
Do you plan on using this for just lifting or lifting and holding while you mill?


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## gr8scott72 (Jan 12, 2010)

gemniii said:


> Bob -
> Excellent construction BUT
> Do you plan on using this for just lifting or lifting and holding while you mill?



Based on other things I've seen him post, he will lift and then set it on something before he cuts it.

Be kind of hard to get the mill on or off with that lift on the end of the log.


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## rarefish383 (Jan 12, 2010)

Bob, that has a striking resemblance to the jack on my 58 Zodiac. The Zodiac jack is a screw versus ratchet. I like it, Joe.


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## gemniii (Jan 12, 2010)

gr8scott72 said:


> Based on other things I've seen him post, he will lift and then set it on something before he cuts it.
> 
> Be kind of hard to get the mill on or off with that lift on the end of the log.


That's what I was thinking, and I was wondering why the ultra-stable looking base was needed to just "get er' up".


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## BobL (Jan 12, 2010)

Cheers Guys.

RE: Do you plan on using this for just lifting or lifting and holding while you mill?
It's just to get the log up so that I can place something underneath. Once the log is off the ground I drag the jack out of the way


Two issues with the previous version were
1) needing to dig under the end of the log to get the jack under end and 
2) general stability.

The most dangerous situation I found myself in was lifting a 30" log end on a slight side slope. Because of the slope I flattened a spot on the ground for the jack base. I then lifted the log end up ~ 15" above the ground (usually just leave it for a minute or 2 to see what it does but this time I didn't). From the upslope side I started rolling a 12" thick x 18" diameter cookie under the log when the jack started tipping downslope. Even though it only took about a second, by the time I got over to grab the jack it was leaning over by about 30º and there was no way I could hold it and the whole thing fell downslope. 

Since then I stuck to the method of only lifting logs ~2" at a time and placing ~2 ft lengths of 2" thick boards underneath the log. When the log was say 12" above the ground I would then place a large 8-10" thick cookie under the log and lift and add the boards to the top of that. If the jack became unstable the most the log could drop is 2" - this method is safer but tedious which is why I went for the upgrade.

In the tree loppers yard where I do most of my milling, 90% of the time I used the loader with forks to lift logs but sometimes someone else is using it or I am elsewhere and this is where the new jack setup should be useful.


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## Beefie (Jan 17, 2010)

Very good idea, now I no why I saved my old high lift jack for. Good info and pics.

Beefie


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## irishcountry (Jan 17, 2010)

As always top notch!!!


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## BobL (Jan 17, 2010)

Cheers guys, I have painted it up and will hopefully try it out in the next day or so.


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## BobL (Jan 18, 2010)

It reached 116F today but 3 hours later it was 75 F so cool enough for me to try out the new log lifter on an old jarrah log.







Worked fine!


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## SilverBox (Jan 18, 2010)

Nice!


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## Can8ianTimber (Jan 18, 2010)

I love it. I can't wait to make one of those. I just need to buy a welder and and learn how to weld. Thanks for all the great pics Bob


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## TNMIKE (Jan 18, 2010)

That is slick. I need to find another hi lift jack and make one


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## Fallguy1960 (Jan 18, 2010)

I think I can actually justify buying a high lift jack now. We had one on the farm when I was a kid so I do know the pro's and con's of their design.


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## huskyhank (Jan 19, 2010)

*Log Lifter - the huskyhank version.*

Here's my log lifter. It works great.

The 2 X 2 X 1/4" steel tubing "legs" are 16" long.

The "hooks" that go under and grab the log are made from 3/4 X 1 1/2 solid about 6" long in front of the tubing legs.

The 1 1/2" angle iron near the apex is attached so that the nose of the jack fits comfortably underneath. The space for the nose is about 1 5/8" wide.

I'll show pictures in action tomorrow. I used it today but forgot my camera (and the wrench for my lag screws for my guide board so didn't get to do anything but raise and block up a log).

















I'm pretty sure it won't break.


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## TraditionalTool (Jan 19, 2010)

Pretty clever device, I've thought about similar in the past.


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## BobL (Jan 20, 2010)

Looks good and sturdy.


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## huskyhank (Jan 22, 2010)

*Used the loglifter today*

I milled some mystery wood today - some kind of gum perhaps but I'm not sure. 
The loglifter worked great, the 3120 is a great milling saw and I now have a new stack of nice looking wood.


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## BobL (Jan 22, 2010)

Nice work and nice wood too although it looks like a conifer rather than a gum to me.


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## gr8scott72 (Jan 22, 2010)

BobL said:


> Nice work and nice wood too although it looks like a conifer rather than a gum to me.



Not in Tenn. 

Does look like sweet gum. What did it smell like?


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## huskyhank (Jan 22, 2010)

gr8scott72 said:


> Not in Tenn.
> 
> Does look like sweet gum. What did it smell like?



Not much smell - but its been down for at least six months. Whatever it is its about as hard as walnut so I'd call it medium hard hardwood. The bark was wet today - when dry its lighter color in the fissures.


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## gr8scott72 (Jan 22, 2010)

huskyhank said:


> Not much smell - but its been down for at least six months. Whatever it is its about as hard as walnut so I'd call it medium hard hardwood. The bark was wet today - when dry its lighter color in the fissures.



That rules out sweet gum. It's very soft and very strong smelling. Sicky sweet smelling.


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## huskyhank (Jan 22, 2010)

Maybe its Black Gum, also known as Tupelo?


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## gr8scott72 (Jan 23, 2010)

huskyhank said:


> Maybe its Black Gum, also known as Tupelo?



Idk, the only gum we have this far south is sweet gum. I have a whole trailer load of logs of sweet gum that I got today. Mill is paying $38 per ton for hardwood logs over 14'. I figure I have about $200 worth on my trailer from that one job which is great because sweet gum is just about worthless.


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## DaltonPaull (Oct 20, 2010)

Thanks for sharing your designs!

I built mine today, leaning heavily on Husky Hanks version. It works well but next I'll need to do something to stabilize the jack.


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## BobL (Oct 20, 2010)

DaltonPaull said:


> Thanks for sharing your designs!
> 
> I built mine today, leaning heavily on Husky Hanks version. It works well but next I'll need to do something to stabilize the jack. [/IMG]



Looks good - yeah you look like you need to stabilise the sideways movement of the jack.

I also see your log has moved forward so that base of the jack is now some distance away from the log. This can happen if a small round branch or log is used to support the other end of the log, or the surface is soft, or very hard and smooth like concrete, and the log slides away from the jack. 

If this becomes a problem what I do at the other end is lift that end of the log with the jack and place a wide cookie with a step cut in it about 2/3rd the way across the cookie. Place the cookie with the step side facing up. The Cookie has to be thick enough to withstand the weight of the log. On the lower step face cut a "V" notch into the surface so the log end sits in that. This is often enough of a height gain so that no further lifting is required until most of the log has been cut. The move the jack to the other end and lift away.


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## huskyhank (Oct 20, 2010)

Good job!

Some angle like BobL used on his will help steady it. I've been meaning to do that to mine. Or some cable or light chains attached to the top of the jack main beam and at each end of a piece of 2x6 under the jack. The 2x6 will give you a big foot print on the ground too.

On yours, I'd also add some stops for the nose of the jack so the log/lifter can't slide across the nose and get out of balance - something to keep the log centered on the jack.


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## DarwinAustralia (Jul 5, 2013)

BobL said:


> Looks good - yeah you look like you need to stabilise the sideways movement of the jack.
> 
> I also see your log has moved forward so that base of the jack is now some distance away from the log. This can happen if a small round branch or log is used to support the other end of the log, or the surface is soft, or very hard and smooth like concrete, and the log slides away from the jack.
> 
> If this becomes a problem what I do at the other end is lift that end of the log with the jack and place a wide cookie with a step cut in it about 2/3rd the way across the cookie. Place the cookie with the step side facing up. The Cookie has to be thick enough to withstand the weight of the log. On the lower step face cut a "V" notch into the surface so the log end sits in that. This is often enough of a height gain so that no further lifting is required until most of the log has been cut. The move the jack to the other end and lift away.




Guys all great ideas - one thing I did for a mate here was fabricate a triangular base plate (out of 5/8 plate) with ground spikes (couple of 3/8 bolts) for him to jack his 4x4 up on soft ground ie mud/sand. 

I don't have a picture and not very good at drawing on the computer but try to picture it with the widest part of the triangle towards the log about 12" wide parallel with the log flat with the pointy end facing the jack base. A small angle iron frame on top of the base plate to slide the base of the jack into it with a carry handle in the middle balance point of the base plate and the pointy end under the jack cut off square with the jack so that the corners on the handle side of the jack base meet the two angles going toward the log. I hope this makes sense ?

BobL might draw it to make sense. It works a treat and stops the jack falling toward whatever your lifting as it always does. Weight of the plate is similar to the jack so when carrying it you will be balanced with jack in one hand and plate in the other.

One more thing we did was - once we even put a heavy crow bar into the carry handle slot with the bar laying away from the jack with a log under the far end to give the base plate more leverage at the base to stop the jack tipping over because we were on a slight downhill slope. 

Hope this all makes sense. If not let me know and I will try and explain it better.


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## john taliaferro (Jul 13, 2013)

I welded a 1/4" 10 x10 to the bottom plate of my jack then made some gobers of weld on it , its handy because it will stand on its own . I like the A design hook simple .


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## flashhole (Jul 13, 2013)

Very nice. Great pics and thanks for sharing the ideas. I'll have to build one for myself.


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## Beefie (Dec 22, 2013)

Hey Bobl and huskey hank. Do you guys think You can repost the pictures of your log lifters. I no I will be in need of one and words say a lot but pictures show so much more.

Thank you
Beefie


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## huskyhank (Dec 22, 2013)

I've been meaning to re-post some of my pictures that were lost.
I've found them now and will work on getting them back up.
Some to come in this thread shortly...


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## huskyhank (Dec 22, 2013)

And more:


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## Beefie (Dec 22, 2013)

Thanks Hank. Now that I have seen the pictures , it is coming back to me. That will be my next thing I make for the milling venture.


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## Greenland South (Dec 27, 2013)

BobL said:


> This was the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Anyone else that's not able to see the pics in Bobs post? All I get is a box with IMG in it. This has happened with a few posts I have tried to look at. Anyone have a solution, or ideas on how to correct this?


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## PhilB (Dec 27, 2013)

Pictures posted more than about a month ago have been lost due to a site hack. Text is there but pictures are not. The original posters may have there pictures saved on their computer and will be willing to repost.


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## BobL (Dec 27, 2013)

Greenland South said:


> Anyone else that's not able to see the pics in Bobs post? All I get is a box with IMG in it. This has happened with a few posts I have tried to look at. Anyone have a solution, or ideas on how to correct this?



None of the pics posted before the Oct/Nov crash are showing up on AS. 
I have posted most of these images on another site if you want to see them 
(http://www.woodworkforums.com/f132/lift-log-59940/index2.html)
You will have to register to see the pics - I post there under the same name as here.


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## BobL (Jan 25, 2022)

My Pic links have been fixed - let me know if they don't show up.


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## scor440tk (Jan 29, 2022)

BobL said:


> This was the plan.
> View attachment 327208
> 
> 
> ...


Found this years ago nothing new for me.


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