# sharpening stump grinder teeth



## kkottemann

Does anybody sharpen thier stump grinder teeth? I have a vermeer and would like to use a greenwheel to sharpen my dull sets of teeth. I have never attempted it before and would like some feedback on the issue.


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## B.Secord

I have always sharpened my own stumper teeth, I suppose it is my cheap nature as a farmer and a Certified arborist. There are no real tricks to this operation, however you must obey some rules of common sense. If you are going to proceed, the first thing that you should do is make sure that the green wheel that you purchase is matched to the RPMs of your grinder. The second thing is that you MUST wear a appropriate dust mask, and I would recommend goggles rather that safety glasses. How you perform the actual grinding depends on which style or type of teeth you are sharpening.


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## kkottemann

I have a vermeer sc252. the teeth I use are the standard vermeer teeth. How should I sharpen the tooth?


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## 1CallLandscape

Which kind of teeth do you have??? ( pocket, green, or the 1 piece tooth vermeer) let me know and ill post some pics. and yes goggles are a MUST, a dust mask is real important...those greenwheels make a crap load of dust. get a medium grit wheel. the coarse ones dont produce a good edge and the fine ones take too long to grind with. DONT, with any tooth, grind on the flat part. you will be grinding from the front toward the shank and matching all factory angles as best as possible. they do have guages to help with this. my greenteeth i put on a drill in reverse and grind away to get a round tooth. hope this helps.

-mike


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## kkottemann

I have the standard vermeer one piece tooth. Pics would be great. I need to know exactly how and where to grind. I will surely wear a mask and goggles. Thanks for the help.


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## l2edneck

i usually grind down the metal lip <usin a metal wheel>behind the carbide then go in a half moon along the front and then just feel with my finger till it feels sharp<it makes the teeth lighter and also i make the metal sharp enuff that if you hit the wood my teeth will cut it also>but please dont just go by my word becuzz im self taught>although i never had any probs very very messy wife makes me do it far away from her stuff lol


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## stranger217

I used a bech grinder, with 80 grit green wheel. I also set up a "tent" to work in with a shop vac set up just below and behind the grinder with a hepa filter.


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## Ekka

I used to sharpen my own when I had those 1/2 inch shank teeth that go into the pockets ....

.... then I woke up to Rayco Superteeth. Last way longer and when done retip them with carbide or ditch them.

For you yanks, somewhere over there some-one is buying the old used ones, selling retipped ones (reconditioned) for like $6

Buggered if I know where that link or thread is but I thought it was a great service. Give em your old beatup Rayco Superteeth and buy another set of recond ones half price.

Also the tungsten carbide that goes into the retipped ones is a tougher grade. 

If anyone knows where that link is who are they are over there it would be good to post it. I didn't pay much attention as I'm over here on a remote island and the freight would be a killer.

The tips I can buy here are $5 each (rip off) but are harder ad better, however they want $10 a tooth to silversolder it on so I just buy new ones .... oh, it would cost me about $1k to set up with oxy/actylene to do it.

Found this too

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=24571


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## elmnut

Ekka said:


> I used to sharpen my own when I had those 1/2 inch shank teeth that go into the pockets ....
> 
> .... then I woke up to Rayco Superteeth. Last way longer and when done retip them with carbide or ditch them.
> 
> For you yanks, somewhere over there some-one is buying the old used ones, selling retipped ones (reconditioned) for like $6
> 
> Buggered if I know where that link or thread is but I thought it was a great service. Give em your old beatup Rayco Superteeth and buy another set of recond ones half price.
> 
> Also the tungsten carbide that goes into the retipped ones is a tougher grade.
> 
> If anyone knows where that link is who are they are over there it would be good to post it. I didn't pay much attention as I'm over here on a remote island and the freight would be a killer.
> 
> The tips I can buy here are $5 each (rip off) but are harder ad better, however they want $10 a tooth to silversolder it on so I just buy new ones .... oh, it would cost me about $1k to set up with oxy/actylene to do it.
> 
> Found this too
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=24571




I use a place called Stump Cutter King to rebuild teeth. Cutter may be spelled Kutter, out of my office so not positive. They also have(had)free freight on orders over 100!


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## Kneejerk Bombas

The dust from both the carbide cutter and the grinding wheel is very carcinogenic, and the dust can also cause several different lung diseases. Proceed with caution.


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## juststumps

Ekka said:


> I used to sharpen my own when I had those 1/2 inch shank teeth that go into the pockets ....
> 
> .... then I woke up to Rayco Superteeth. Last way longer and when done retip them with carbide or ditch them.
> 
> For you yanks, somewhere over there some-one is buying the old used ones, selling retipped ones (reconditioned) for like $6
> 
> Buggered if I know where that link or thread is but I thought it was a great service. Give em your old beatup Rayco Superteeth and buy another set of recond ones half price.
> 
> Also the tungsten carbide that goes into the retipped ones is a tougher grade.
> 
> If anyone knows where that link is who are they are over there it would be good to post it. I didn't pay much attention as I'm over here on a remote island and the freight would be a killer.
> 
> The tips I can buy here are $5 each (rip off) but are harder ad better, however they want $10 a tooth to silversolder it on so I just buy new ones .... oh, it would cost me about $1k to set up with oxy/actylene to do it.
> 
> Found this too
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=24571[
> 
> i just paid $6.61 each,, for vermeer teeth....why fool around with them???


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## trevmcrev

Ekka said:


> I used to sharpen my own when I had those 1/2 inch shank teeth that go into the pockets ....
> 
> .... then I woke up to Rayco Superteeth. Last way longer and when done retip them with carbide or ditch them.
> 
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=24571



What me and a few other stump guys down here have done is quite the opposite. On our rayco 1625 machines, we have ditched the superteeth and gone to pockets & 1/2 inch standard teeth for the straights and just leave blunt bents on for counterweights. Sounds wrong i know, but we tested this and found the right depth setting (made a gauge) and it is awesome. Just replace the 6 teeth at $7ea when blunt. So a complete new set costs $42 compared to 18 X $24.50 = $441. Cheaper than the time spent sharpening superteeth, always at right depth (s/teeth get shorter as you sharpen em), cheaper than retipping. Havent bent one yet. And you wont believe me but it cuts BETTER. If you can be bothered, on a rainy day we might resharpen a whole bunch of teeth as spares. Like i said it sounds wrong but really works. And when you hit that hidden metal stake or lump of concrete you wont be nearly as upset as if you just spent $440 on a set of superteeth. I get 10 sets for that much!!

Trev
(I feel a bit like Treeminator telling people how to save money!!!):monkey:


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## a_lopa

i got my super junior back from the dealer in melbourne with teeth set like that,it did cut pretty well.


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## Stumper

trevmcrev, I'm not very surprised.I discovered some years ago that changing outout only 1/3 of a set perchange on my little Rayco RG12 gave nearly equal performance to a full set change while being much faster and risking fewer teeth to the unknown lurking steel and stones. On my Levco HD35 I only change an inner and an outer tooth and very occassionally the dulllest middle one.If all of the teeth are sharp on the HD35 I have to fight to hold the machine back to avoid bogging. 2 sharps cut well without allowing the wheel to suck itself in too fast.

Yes I sharpen my stump teeth. There is room for the argument that buying new makes bettter economic sense without the health risks associated with silicon carbide and tungsten carbide dusts. Being cheap was part of why I started sharpening. At this point it just works out more conveniently to quickly sharpen some replacements if I discover I'm running low compared to trying to keep new teeth on hand all the time-I have hundreds of used ones.


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## Ekka

Well, after I modded the Kanga I found that those 1/2" shank teeth were bending ... often.

This only changing out the straights or 1/3 of them or 1/2 of them seems odd I must admit.

I only have 8 cutting teeth on the Kanga.

The configuration I run is 2 straights, LH & RH together, 2 straights, LH & RH together.

*You suggest just changing out the straights?* They'll be longer and do the bulk of the cutting I suppose.

Oh, I dont sharpen much anymore but I'd have a hundred 1/2" shanked ones down there coz I still have a Dosko. That runs 12 teeth but I rarely use it.

Trev, when I change out those Rayco teeth, they're all pretty worn, those LH & RH do work too you know, what's the science behind this working just as good with half new teeth I wonder???


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## trevmcrev

Ekka said:


> Well, after I modded the Kanga I found that those 1/2" shank teeth were bending ... often.
> 
> This only changing out the straights or 1/3 of them or 1/2 of them seems odd I must admit.
> 
> I only have 8 cutting teeth on the Kanga.
> 
> The configuration I run is 2 straights, LH & RH together, 2 straights, LH & RH together.
> 
> *You suggest just changing out the straights?* They'll be longer and do the bulk of the cutting I suppose.
> 
> Oh, I dont sharpen much anymore but I'd have a hundred 1/2" shanked ones down there coz I still have a Dosko. That runs 12 teeth but I rarely use it.
> 
> Trev, when I change out those Rayco teeth, they're all pretty worn, those LH & RH do work too you know, what's the science behind this working just as good with half new teeth I wonder???




Your kanga set up sounds the same as my Rhyscorp StumpHumper and i still run it that way. But on the rayco 1625 the straights are set on the outer edge of the disc(3 pairs) then another 3 pairs of l & r set further in towards the centre of the disc and then another 3 pairs of l & r set EVEN further in towards the centre of the disc. The cutting edge on these last ones from memory dont even protrude past the disc itself and tend to function more towards clearing the debris than cutting it. Yeah the bents do wear, but i think more through just clearing and throwing out to the side the chit already ground by the straights. The other thing was that as soon as you sharpen a super tooth, as they are in a fixed position they are no longer the correct length. I've put about 150hrs on my machine running ths set up. Have gone through loads of straights but still have the SAME bents on it! THey are now nearly worn away to round looking things almost like pockets and i will throw some better ones on soon. THe guy who showed me this i consider THE GURU of stumping. He'd have done many 100's of hrs like this by now. I know it sounds wrong and i didnt beleive him till i tried it.
Also, if your bending lots of 1/2 inch standard teeth find out what sort they are. There are some cheap chinese ones that bend like bananas(prolly cheaper than bananas now hey!) The metal is textured and porous looking, should be smooth and shiny. Cannings in Melb changed suppliers a while back without saying anything and we bent about 20 in 2 weeks! Blew the wind up em and got the old ones back-no probs since. THey still have the crap ones on the shelf as well for the unsuspecting buyer though! 

The other thing we found out is DONT grease the cutter wheel bearings if you want them to last. Manufacturer and dealer says to grease daily- pumping it through till it purges through the seals. if you do this you do a set of bearings about every 80 hrs. The seals are SEALS. Have been told by bearing experts that the model of bearing on these machines is designed to be greased once and should last 1000s of hrs. As soon as you pump enough grease in to blow out the seals they are stuffed. Dirt can then get back in and you have to keep pouring grease through em and hope no dirt gets back in. After doing the first set in 80 hrs(greased several times daily as told to by dealer) and second set in another 60hrs before learning this i've now done over 300hrs like this no probs.

Trev


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## Ekka

Hey Trev

2 threads

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=22011

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=22055&highlight=stump+grinder+bearings

I'm way ahead of ya.

On my grinder all the teeth are the same position/distance out so all do the work.

I dont sharpen the super teeth, just ditch them.


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## a_lopa

since your using superteeth ekka theres no adjustment so i guess your cutting disc doesnt have staggered mounting holes


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## a_lopa

how bout these


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## trevmcrev

Thanks ekka, read those posts. Sound like youve got it sorted. I were fuming bout my second set of bearings coz id just found this out when the machine went to the dealers for a service and THEY pumped the new bearings full of grease till it spewed out the seals-f/wits! Do you have pics of you grinder on the kanga? I'd love a mini loader with grapple and if the stumper attachment was good enough to justify ditchin my current machines it could be worth it. Otherwise i dont think i get enough jobs with enough access for the loader to justify it on its own.
Trev


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## trevmcrev

Alopa, whats with the notch in those? i have seen but not used the ones with the serrated(?) edge. Where do you get those from? Do you bend many?


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## a_lopa

was using some other chinese ones (non serated)they bent but were ok for $1 each,these work good IMO $5 ea


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## stumpy66

i am mechanically sensitive, but pumping grease daily seems like a problem, the old saying are the best if it ain't broke don't fix it...a bit of grease now and then...with a keen ear...will go a long way....


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## Ekka

Hey Trev, what sort of grinder you got?

This does OK but I wouldn't want to grind 2m dia mountain ash with it!

Lopa, those teeth (serated ones) I reckon they'll go well, but then again maybe the rocks and stones will chip that carbide off???

What's the little slot in them for? I bet they're for special pockets so they cant fly out. Like Vermeer teeth have.


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## trevmcrev

Ekka, Ive got a Rhyscorp StumpHumper 1800D 18hp briggs, self propelled, manual swing, for tight access (28" wide) fits through a standard doorway and yes ive taken it through a few houses! And a Rayco 1625A with 25hp Kohler, full hydraulic jobbie for the bigger stuff. I dont think i'd get much use for anything a lot bigger due to access.

Alopa, where ya gettin ya $5 teeth from?

Trev


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## pdqdl

*Rayco 1625 teeth*

I buy from Border City Tool. 1800-421-5985.

I buy the "econo" teeth for about $60 for a complete set of all 18 teeth. What is great about these is that the carbide cutters are ground square instead of rounded on the tip, and they cut much faster with less drain on the engine. 

They probably dull faster too, but I am happy with the life I am getting out of them.


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## bigearl

I send mine to Demott tool and saw in columbiaville MI reasonably priced


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## Treemann

*Stump Teeth*

I have a little bix re-tiping all types of teeth. I can do this for about 50% of what you paid for them. I will also buy worn superteeth or vermeer supers for my inventory. I gotta weird little web site I'm trying to put together. It's called www.carbidetufftooth.com If you want to get some quality teeth for cheap let me know. Jim


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## wesmahaffee

If you do chose to sharpen in house, do yourselves a huge favor and invest in a diamond cutting wheel. Cuts sharpening g time by 90%. You'll throw all your green wheels out the door


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## ffwilliam

trevmcrev said:


> What me and a few other stump guys down here have done is quite the opposite. On our rayco 1625 machines, we have ditched the superteeth and gone to pockets & 1/2 inch standard teeth for the straights and just leave blunt bents on for counterweights. Sounds wrong i know, but we tested this and found the right depth setting (made a gauge) and it is awesome. Just replace the 6 teeth at $7ea when blunt. So a complete new set costs $42 compared to 18 X $24.50 = $441. Cheaper than the time spent sharpening superteeth, always at right depth (s/teeth get shorter as you sharpen em), cheaper than retipping. Havent bent one yet. And you wont believe me but it cuts BETTER. If you can be bothered, on a rainy day we might resharpen a whole bunch of teeth as spares. Like i said it sounds wrong but really works. And when you hit that hidden metal stake or lump of concrete you wont be nearly as upset as if you just spent $440 on a set of superteeth. I get 10 sets for that much!!
> 
> Trev
> (I feel a bit like Treeminator telling people how to save money!!!):monkey:


Where do you get the pockets and standard teeth


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