# Chainsaw filing tricks,secrets



## demc570 (Dec 31, 2012)

Hi,new to site,nice to meet ya all! I HAVE been sharping my own chains for 5 years or so,wandering what your best methods,and or mistakes are?.......THANKYOU................HAVE A HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!! :msp_smile:


----------



## timbrjackrussel (Dec 31, 2012)

Oregon filing guide,OREGON brand bar-mount filing guide
150watt projector spot light shining down on front of the tooth, 4 power reading glasses. Wash dull chain in solvent before and after sharpening, re-oil with ATF, hang to drip off for a day.


----------



## CTYank (Dec 31, 2012)

Carefully set up Granberg guide on bar- angles, & file-height by feel (file about 1/5 diam proud of cutters).

Mark first cutter to be done, with black marker.

Unless chain has been rocked, 2-3 strokes and check sharpness with thumb. Couple more strokes a/r or NEXT.

After doing the right side, flip file guide about to do the left-side cutters; position saw for ease/comfort.

Clean chain with wood when convenient. Hard or soft will do nicely. Make it sing.

A happy and safe new years to all,


----------



## jczv (Dec 31, 2012)

Here's a good thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/chain-sharpening/114624.htm


----------



## demc570 (Dec 31, 2012)

timbrjackrussel said:


> Oregon filing guide,OREGON brand bar-mount filing guide
> 150watt projector spot light shining down on front of the tooth, 4 power reading glasses. Wash dull chain in solvent before and after sharpening, re-oil with ATF, hang to drip off for a day.



great,like the transfluid idea!


----------



## timbrjackrussel (Dec 31, 2012)

I use an old 14" .050 solid nose bar mounted in a vise so that the tang end is towards me. Chain rolls up over the nose end (away from me end). I never sharpen a chain on a bar that I cut with, don't want any metal filings to get into the nose bearing. I have two of the sharpening jigs, one is set to sharpen, the other with a flat file for the depth gauges. Just swap them. Most chains are for my 066, .375" X.050".


----------



## artbaldoni (Dec 31, 2012)

Quite a few folks have recommended these...PFERD Chain Saw Files & Accessories for sharpening tooth and filing rakers at the same time. I have never tried it because it works only on full comp chain and I run full skip. Seems like a good setup to me. I still hand file with the old OREGON brand products, chain saw chain and guide bars, accessories, and mower blades for homeowners ,works every time...:msp_thumbsup:


----------



## Mac88 (Dec 31, 2012)

Eyeball.


----------



## indiansprings (Dec 31, 2012)

Well over 30 years of practice, Stihl chain and files, just a regular old file handle, gooseneck magnifying light, keep the rakers about 20 thousandths lower than the tooth, when really behind either the Stihl USG Grinder and cbn wheel or the 511AX oregon, either does a great job, even when grinding I'll usually touch them up with a stroke or two with a file. Frequent touching up rather than waiting until they are dull.


----------



## demc570 (Dec 31, 2012)

great tips!!!!!!!!!!!! thankyou all:cool2:


----------



## stihly dan (Dec 31, 2012)

Mac88 said:


> Eyeball.



Thats a hard eyeball. Don't think it would work on the rsc chain.


----------



## rwoods (Dec 31, 2012)

Best advice I got was in the CS forum - don't be shy about removing a little metal (from Del maybe, or someone else with a "D" I believe). This tip made a world of difference in my sharpening. Ron


----------



## Fifelaker (Dec 31, 2012)

Timberline. Phil is still giving the promo price.


----------



## trophyhunter (Jan 1, 2013)

rwoods said:


> Best advice I got was in the CS forum - don't be shy about removing a little metal (from Del maybe, or someone else with a "D" I believe). This tip made a world of difference in my sharpening. Ron



Absolutely, you have to remove metal to keep angles true and cutters razor sharp. I never allow a chain to get dull, when the chip's aren't flying out the way they ought to stop and touch it up. A good Pro Saw will last forever if you take care of it and keep those chains razor sharp.


----------



## Mac88 (Jan 1, 2013)

stihly dan said:


> Thats a hard eyeball. Don't think it would work on the rsc chain.



Why not? It's diamond. :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## Fred Wright (Jan 1, 2013)

I use a little handheld Husky sharpening jig. It fits over the cutter and has neoprene rollers for the file to roll on at the correct angle. It has a depth gauge plate for filing rakers as well.

Got it from Baileys and I've seen 'em at TS stores. The kit comes with the jig, a file handle, a pair of round files and one flat.


----------



## artbaldoni (Jan 1, 2013)

Fred Wright said:


> I use a little handheld Husky sharpening jig. It fits over the cutter and has neoprene rollers for the file to roll on at the correct angle. It has a depth gauge plate for filing rakers as well.
> 
> Got it from Baileys and I've seen 'em at TS stores. The kit comes with the jig, a file handle, a pair of round files and one flat.



Got one of these after hearing people talk them up but I just can't seem to get the hang of that thing. Maybe I'm not smart enough to use it. I use the old Oregon guide the attaches to the file. Also have an ancient Belsaw grinder that is likely older than I am. Only use it when I've really hogged one up.


----------



## sachsmo (Jan 1, 2013)

A dozen files and a good handle (a vice helps much)

go until you get a good slide through, after awhile you will feel it.


----------



## LAH (Jan 1, 2013)

I use a handle on the file. The drags get the flat file. No guide on them either. After awhile you'll get the feel & eye.


----------



## PEKS (Jan 1, 2013)

I have always sharpened by hand using Stihl Chains and Stihl Files..
Picked up a portable grinder from Bailey's last week, works good, finish with a few file strokes..


----------



## hammer0419 (Jan 1, 2013)

I have tried many sharpeners over the years. Reciently purchased the Stihl FG2 sharpener. Holy crap is it good!! Expensive but it will pay for itself quickly.


----------



## Tiewire (Jan 1, 2013)

One of the things that helped me alot was getting saw secure when filing. Either a good stump vise or vise on workbench at home. Does not matter as much now that I got me a nice grinder that I probably do 75% of sharpening with now.


----------



## farmboss45 (Jan 1, 2013)

I hit my chains with a dremel before going to the woods, [or now when things are slow and I am hiding in the shop from the wife] And as long as I don't "rock" out the chain, I am set for the day. Meaning a couple of hours of falling and bucking lengthes. This method has done well for me for years, a good "eyeball" on the angle, as long as I have a good rest for my hand, I get what I need.


----------



## demc570 (Jan 1, 2013)

just got done filing two chains for my old man,3 glasses of whiskey,stihl file, at the kitchen table,stihl havent gotten the new husky file guide they where closed today................
:msp_smile:


----------



## MGoBlue (Jan 2, 2013)

Fifelaker said:


> Timberline. Phil is still giving the promo price.



Which is what? I'm ready to pull the trigger on one and need this info if you have it.


----------



## Eric Modell (Jan 2, 2013)

I grind and file both. If I am getting serious with a file I will use two file handles, one on both ends of the file.


----------



## Butch(OH) (Jan 2, 2013)

Been mentioned here a couple times already but it doesn't get any more important than having the saw clamped down so it doesn't move. Best way is in good heavy bench vise mounted at comfortable height under a light. When you get good there then proceed to a stump vise and when you think you are an expert then on the tailgate of a truck for an education. None of the filing gadgets are worth beans when the saw is rolling around under them but my favored crutch is the plain old Oregon flat plate type file holder as sold anywhere that sells chain. When about 1/3 of the tooth is gone set the rakers with a guage and again at 2/3 gone. File the gullets out when half gone too if your after tenths in the cut. All I keep in my field box is files with handles on them but we take 4-5 saws with us when we go out
How do you know when you are doing a good job? When you make noodles out of your bar covers every time you put them on and they hardly make it a year without being shredded all the way through.


----------



## Mac88 (Jan 2, 2013)

I Make sure the chain is snug, put the saw on the bench, rest the bar on a block of 2 by, grab the top of the bar with a gloved hand, and file with the other. Re-tension the chain when done. Works for me.


----------



## zogger (Jan 2, 2013)

artbaldoni said:


> Quite a few folks have recommended these...PFERD Chain Saw Files & Accessories for sharpening tooth and filing rakers at the same time. I have never tried it because it works only on full comp chain and I run full skip. Seems like a good setup to me. I still hand file with the old OREGON brand products, chain saw chain and guide bars, accessories, and mower blades for homeowners ,works every time...:msp_thumbsup:



I have the husky branded version of the earlier pferd model, works really well. The cost of the flat files sucks though. You can use any round file of the correst size but the flat files are some custom design. More like a file bar, no tang to them at all. I have to admit though I havent looked to see if I could ind generic replacements based on size and cut size, fineness

they are fast though, being able to do cutter and depth gauge with the same strokes is really nice. And no question about getting them even. You still have to eyeball and feel your up and down angle though.


----------



## wayabs (Jan 2, 2013)

demc570 said:


> Hi,new to site,nice to meet ya all! I HAVE been sharping my own chains for 5 years or so,wandering what your best methods,and or mistakes are?.......THANKYOU................HAVE A HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!! :msp_smile:



I'm new too and the only trick I know is conning someone else into doing it.


----------



## howellhandmade (Jan 2, 2013)

artbaldoni said:


> Got one of these after hearing people talk them up but I just can't seem to get the hang of that thing. Maybe I'm not smart enough to use it. I use the old Oregon guide the attaches to the file. Also have an ancient Belsaw grinder that is likely older than I am. Only use it when I've really hogged one up.



I like the Husky guide the best, but I can sort of remember having to come to terms with it. First, the slot that fits over the straps is a touch tight for some brands of chain, might take a swipe with a flat file to deburr it. Also, make sure you don't have it on the chain backwards. The surest way to tell that you've got it the wrong way round is that it doesn't work. You have to hold the jig securely with your free hand.


----------



## rtrsam (Jan 3, 2013)

Filing a saw: 
Methods include keeping a properly sharpened tooth available (factory edge of the type of tooth you're running) to compare your fiing job to; judge depth of gullet, top and side plate angles. 

Make certain you're not going so deep in the gullet that you're starting to file the side straps between the links (90% of the busted chains I have encountered you could see where a tire strap broke from filing too deep). If you need to go that deep to get a proper top plate angle, get a smaller file.

Always file from the inside of the tooth out; outside of tooth is chrome covered and your file will quickly dull if you try filing from the outside inward (file tries to cut the harder chrome instead of cutting the softer base metal under the chrome and allowing the chrome to flake off). On the topic of files, be sure to use the entire toothed portion of the file; full strokes. You paid for a whole file, don't just use the center portion of the teeth. Periodically rotate the file, tap it against the bench (or wipe it on your chaps) between teeth to knock off metal filings.

Wear gloves! Worst saw injuries I've had came from punching a sharp tooth when the file jumped out of the tooth I was filing. On that note, if I'm sharpening a seriously dull saw, I'll always file the right hand cutters first, those are the ones where if the file slips I'll end up punching the chain with the back of my hand; thus I'm more likely to punch a dull tooth. Also, advance the sharp teeth to the nose of the bar as I file, again I'm less likely to punch against a sharp tooth if my file slips.

These are things I've learned from thirty five years of hand filing saws. Also, newer saw teeth are much harder to focus your eyes on than the chains manufactured in the 1970's and 1980's. Unless you can find some of this vintage chain, be prepared to have some sort of visual assistance in teh form of bright light and possibly bi-focals.


----------



## Cbird14 (Jan 3, 2013)

Mac88 said:


> Eyeball.



bought a file guide. set it on chain. told self this sucks. threw file guide in scrap iron pile. used common sense and my God given eyes to sharpen chain. sharp enough to shave with. thank you.


----------



## Marc (Jan 3, 2013)

zogger said:


> I have the husky branded version of the earlier pferd model, works really well. The cost of the flat files sucks though. You can use any round file of the correst size but the flat files are some custom design. More like a file bar, no tang to them at all. I have to admit though I havent looked to see if I could ind generic replacements based on size and cut size, fineness
> 
> they are fast though, being able to do cutter and depth gauge with the same strokes is really nice. And no question about getting them even. You still have to eyeball and feel your up and down angle though.



Raker file on the Pferd/Husky guide is expensive but lasts a while. I think I replace one for about every 10 or 15 round files I replace.


----------



## slowp (Jan 3, 2013)

See the cover on the bar of my Barbie Saw? That's made of a cheapo backpacking sleeping pad. Duck tape holds it together.

Our climate is usually damp. The ground is damp and that can be hard on mature knees. The pad is used a couple of ways--when I'm cutting open trails, I can carry the saw on either shoulder with that on, and when I need to sharpen the chain, I can kneel on that pad and file away with the saw on the ground. My faithful companion, The Used Dog, carries the accessories if he is allowed to go along. 

I freehand file. I tried to use a guide and couldn't do it. I got the knack in 1981, then didn't work with a saw as much. I started more a few years ago, and it does take a while to get it back. And yes, I have metal shavings coming off. I also file down the rakers--just hit them a couple of times with a cute little flat file, on every third filing of the chain--if I can remember. 

The pad also is good to sit on when a break is needed. Mmmmm, Poptarts and dog treats!


View attachment 271199


----------



## Mac88 (Jan 3, 2013)

Your dog looks happy to tote your accessories. He is missing the St. Bernard keg under his chin though.


----------



## El Quachito (Jan 3, 2013)

I sharpen with a File-n-Joint. Works for me. The more you sharpen the better you get.


----------



## wat648 (Jan 3, 2013)

anyone vary from factory angles? Tilt the file instead of holding it level?


----------



## Cbird14 (Jan 3, 2013)

wat648 said:


> anyone vary from factory angles? Tilt the file instead of holding it level?



i havent had a need to do that. if i was going to do some ripping i might take one chain and change the degree a bit. and doing that is a bit tricky as to get everyone the same so u dont start cutting to one side or the other. only if i would happen to rock a chain will i ever use a chain grinder.


----------



## WidowMaker (Jan 3, 2013)

LAH said:


> I use a handle on the file. The drags get the flat file. No guide on them either. After awhile you'll get the feel & eye.




=====


Or a REALLY F"ed up chain....


----------



## Mac88 (Jan 3, 2013)

WidowMaker said:


> =====
> 
> 
> Or a REALLY F"ed up chain....



Mine still throw chips just like a new one.


----------



## stihlrookie (Jan 3, 2013)

Yep I do it wrong but it comes out right. I don't use a vise, just one hand on the file and the other gripping the chain right by the cutter I am working on. Cutters first and then the rakers but fergawdsake don't hammer your freshly sharpened cutters with the flat file whilst knocking the rakers down. Take your time, minutes now saves hours later.


----------



## El Quachito (Jan 3, 2013)

wat648 said:


> anyone vary from factory angles? Tilt the file instead of holding it level?



I have varied from the factory angles. When I first bought my F-n-J, I did what the instructions said. Those settings in the instructions differed from the Husqvarna factory specs printed on the chain's box, for example. 

With practice and some experimentation I came up with filing specs that actually mirrored Oregon's recommended angles for round-ground chisel chain.


----------



## Mac88 (Jan 3, 2013)

stihlrookie said:


> Yep I do it wrong but it comes out right. I don't use a vise, just one hand on the file and the other gripping the chain right by the cutter I am working on. Cutters first and then the rakers but fergawdsake don't hammer your freshly sharpened cutters with the flat file whilst knocking the rakers down. Take your time, minutes now saves hours later.



Yea, and you don't have to take the rakers down every time you sharpen. I use a skinny triangular file on the rakers.


----------



## Cbird14 (Jan 4, 2013)

Mac88 said:


> Yea, and you don't have to take the rakers down every time you sharpen. I use a skinny triangular file on the rakers.



i like my dewalt cordless grinder.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## v-ridge (Jan 4, 2013)

Mac88 said:


> Eyeball.



i'm no expert but i have to agree with the eyeball method, and filing from the inside of the tooth toward the point. the point should feel razor sharp. if she ain't biting knock the rakers down a little. just not too much or it will want to grab and jerk the saw on ya. it's frustrating at first but after a while you get the hang of it. keep it sharp and the bar will look like new for a long time.


----------



## agstr (Jan 8, 2013)

*outside in or inside out..........*



rtrsam said:


> Filing a saw:
> Methods include keeping a properly sharpened tooth available (factory edge of the type of tooth you're running) to compare your fiing job to; judge depth of gullet, top and side plate angles.
> 
> Make certain you're not going so deep in the gullet that you're starting to file the side straps between the links (90% of the busted chains I have encountered you could see where a tire strap broke from filing too deep). If you need to go that deep to get a proper top plate angle, get a smaller file.
> ...



Some advise to go from outside in to help maintain tooth edge....just something else to ponder


----------



## LAH (Jan 9, 2013)

opcorn:opcorn:


----------



## demc570 (Jan 9, 2013)

thankyou,very much:cool2:


----------



## sachsmo (Jan 9, 2013)

Tried the die grinder and diamond bit.

Got a decent cutting chain, but not like "out of the box".

Started hand filing, and an "out of the box chain" seems lame?


----------



## artbaldoni (Jan 9, 2013)

How to use Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener - YouTube 

Anybody ever use one of these? Kind of pricey at $130.


----------



## MGoBlue (Jan 9, 2013)

artbaldoni said:


> Anybody ever use one of these? Kind of pricey at $130.



*Search* the word Timberline


----------



## Wood Doctor (Jan 9, 2013)

*Oregon 511a*

If you really want to sharpen a flock of chainsaw chains and do it right, get this:







That's my secret. 'nuff said.


----------



## demc570 (Jan 9, 2013)

:biggrinbounce2:


Wood Doctor said:


> If you really want to sharpen a flock of chainsaw chains and do it right, get this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



VERY NICE MAYBE SAVE GET ONE IN FEW MONTHS!!


----------



## sachsmo (Jan 10, 2013)




----------



## LAH (Jan 10, 2013)

Wood Doctor said:


> If you really want to sharpen a flock of chainsaw chains and do it right, get this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




My boss has one of these but no one uses it. It has to work though if used properly. It's like casting bullets in you must repeat. If you can do things the same each time you have better results.


----------



## Guswhit (Jan 10, 2013)

Wood Doctor said:


> If you really want to sharpen a flock of chainsaw chains and do it right, get this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



My buddy has one of these and sharpens my chains for me when I drop them off. I let him borrow some of my larger power tools once in awhile like a trade. It has worked really well the past few years. I have enough of each size so I can leave them for him for a week or 2, no hurries, no worries.


----------



## Wood Doctor (Jan 11, 2013)

*The $130 Timberline...*

... works very well for the first two sharpenings, but after that, you will still have to drop the rakers (depth gauges) with something else. Reviews on the Timberline were mostly positive, but the true workhorses for sharpening lots of chains are the spinning disk machines. Perhaps the best feature of the Timberline is that it requires no electricity or battery to operate it, so it works very well out in the sticks. It also does a great job of sharpening every tooth the same size. The chain must be on a bar. Yes, $130 is a chunk of change, but you will get that back in about 15 sharpenings or less.

What I would like to see sometime is three test results comparing the performance of chains sharpened with Oregon (or equivalent), Timberline, and typical hand filing. I imagine the Timberline-sharpened chains would stack up very well and might even take all the marbles, but who knows?


----------



## MGoBlue (Jan 11, 2013)

Wood Doctor said:


> you will still have to drop the rakers (depth gauges) with something else



Excuse my ignorance as I've never used a grinder, does the wheel just sharpen the cutter or is there a separate set-up to hit the rakers too?

I just ordered the Timberline. I have 2 other people that will pay me to sharpen their chains as well, so that helped w/ the $110.



EDIT:
Answered my own question here, wow!

One other ?, will the heat produced by grinding take away any of the heat tempering of the cutter?


----------



## Wood Doctor (Jan 11, 2013)

MGoBlue said:


> Excuse my ignorance as I've never used a grinder, does the wheel just sharpen the cutter or is there a separate set-up to hit the rakers too?
> 
> I just ordered the Timberline. I have 2 other people that will pay me to sharpen their chains as well, so that helped w/ the $110.
> 
> ...


You can use a grinder to drop the rakers and even with the same wheel that you used to sharpen the cutter. The idea is to "kiss" the left side of the raker with the right side of the wheel and with the sharpening angle set at 0 degrees rather than the typical 25 to 30 degree setting for the cutter. You can leave the slant angle alone, although some recommend changing that from 60 degrees to 90 degrees (vertical). After you set the stop for the graze grind, all rakers can be done in one pass. Just check the clearance with a typical gauge.

The major advantages of this method is that most of the original profile of the raker is maintained and setup time is minimal. If you leave the slant angle alone, the depth of grind can also be left alone.

For your last question, tempering of the cutter is maintained by using several quick cuts down and up rather than one long hold downward of the wheel. I usually use three to seven, depending on chain condition. By letting the tooth cool 1/4 second between quick cuts, the tempering is preserved. The idea is to take only as much off the tooth as you have to in order to rebuild the edge.


----------



## artbaldoni (Jan 12, 2013)

artbaldoni said:


> Got one of these after hearing people talk them up but I just can't seem to get the hang of that thing. Maybe I'm not smart enough to use it. I use the old Oregon guide the attaches to the file. Also have an ancient Belsaw grinder that is likely older than I am. Only use it when I've really hogged one up.



Went to the workbench this morning to clean up some and as usual it turned into a saw servicing session to include touching up the chains on both saws. I decided I would once again tax my spatial relations challenged brain and try the Husky Jig one more time. BAM! Put it right on and it worked great! I have tried this thing 3 other times and just couldn't get it. I am a total arse! 

Now to figure out that thing that came with the saws. Odd...wrench on one end and screwdriver on the other...I wonder what I do with that?


----------



## turnkey4099 (Jan 12, 2013)

artbaldoni said:


> Went to the workbench this morning to clean up some and as usual it turned into a saw servicing session to include touching up the chains on both saws. I decided I would once again tax my spatial relations challenged brain and try the Husky Jig one more time. BAM! Put it right on and it worked great! I have tried this thing 3 other times and just couldn't get it. I am a total arse!
> 
> Now to figure out that thing that came with the saws. Odd...wrench on one end and screwdriver on the other...I wonder what I do with that?



The "screwdriver" end is used to jab into the wall to hold the thing. It is a "peg" to showhow many saws you have. A good Cad collectionwill have a long row of those 'pegs'.

Harry K


----------

