# stihl rm vs rs chains---which one and why?



## demc570

i always use rs or rsk,but never rm........i heard rm stays sharp longer..anyone use both that could compare? thanks


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## mopar3

The Rm does stay sharp a little longer but Rs cuts faster and smoother. In clean wood it's a wash.


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## KenJax Tree

RM stays sharp longer because it has a corner kinda like this ? Where as RS has a corner like this 7 and once you knock that corner off its useless.


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## mdavlee

Rm is good if you don't like to sharpen. You can get a good bit of speed out of it by changing how it's filed and get close to chisel cutting speed.


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## demc570

thanks i never have tried the rm and looking to buy few more chains either the rs,rsk, or try the rm... i hand sharpen all my chains so didnt know if rm was harder to sharpen,or just stay with my rsk on the ms 361 with 3/8 and what .325 on 028 av woodboss?


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## demc570

havent ran rs on .325 yet,just chain that came on it when bought,not sure what it is,


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## woodchuck357

I find chain with 7 shape dulls very fast in really hard woods even if it is clean. I have only noticed it cutting faster in soft woods.


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## dingeryote

Try a loop of RM, and keep it handy as a spare.

Even if you think the speed is off in the cut, over the course of a couple tanks it will even out with less filing time, especially in dirty wood and stuff growing alongside roads and farm fields.

Best part is, RM is very forgiving of the file bieng a bit off when field filing. It's hard to screw up.

In the long run, it's a good tool to have in the box, for when it's needed, and adequate for when it's not.


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## KenJax Tree

We use RM 90% of the time.


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## longbowch

I cut for firewood and almost all of what I cut is dead and dry. I rarely cut clean green wood. That being said, I use both types of chains only because I have both.
I definetly prefer rm, it stays sharp longer and is easy to sharpen. When you are out in the woods cutting by yourself you wont notice if it is any slower and in the long run it will actually be faster
because it stays sharp longer. Unless you are cutting cookies racing your friends give it a try. It might be the cheapest part of CAD.


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## sunfish

I have used both RM semi chisel and RS chisel for many years.

I much prefer RM semi for hard wood! I also see little difference in cutting speed. 
Semi stays sharp longer and is easier to sharpen.


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## luckydozenfarm

I use the RS chain exclusively on my larger felling and bucking saws, MS440, MS660...however I use RM chain on my limbing saws like my MS250's due to the lower kickback and initial bite. When I get a tree down and I'm usually cutting in awkward positions as I make my way down the tree, I don't want the saw jumping around at all. I find there isn't much difference in cutting speed, maybe +/- 1 second through a 25" log?? The RM chains (esp the low-kickback chains) are the best in a de-limbing a downed tree.


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## Bushmans

I've always used RC and yes they dull out quicker but I just try to be a little more careful about sticking it on the dirt when I'm bucking.
I believe when I bought my saw it came with a RM. I'll have to look. I fit did then I can't tell them apart on the saw. LOL


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## 513yj

I use the RS chain for everything but I always carry a handful of hand files and spare chains. I thought I used to buy RSC but maybe they changed the name or my new dealer sells different stuff but it still has the yellow links.


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## sunfish

RS & RSC are the same.

RM is semi chisel, but Stihl calls in micro? You can get it in yellow or green.


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## 513yj

My dealer told me yellow links is pro chain, green links is low kickback stuff with the huge raker deal or whatever.


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## 513yj

I run the .325 RS 18" on my 025 and its been really good for me. Cut most of my firewood with that saw.


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## DonnerParty

I cut mostly big softwoods (pine, fir). A properly sharpened full-chisel (RS) chain cuts noticeably faster, for me, on my saws, in the wood I cut. "Properly sharpened" is the key. Semi-chisel is a big more forgiving when sharpening and if you are hitting the ground, but is certainly slower. On full-chisel, once that leading corner is dull, the chain won't cut well, period.


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## mdavlee

luckydozenfarm said:


> I use the RS chain exclusively on my larger felling and bucking saws, MS440, MS660...however I use RM chain on my limbing saws like my MS250's due to the lower kickback and initial bite. When I get a tree down and I'm usually cutting in awkward positions as I make my way down the tree, I don't want the saw jumping around at all. I find there isn't much difference in cutting speed, maybe +/- 1 second through a 25" log?? The RM chains (esp the low-kickback chains) are the best in a de-limbing a downed tree.



I've never noticed chisel to be any more jumpy when limbing than semi chisel. If you're using full skip then that could be the reason.


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## sunfish

DonnerParty said:


> I cut mostly big softwoods (pine, fir). A properly sharpened full-chisel (RS) chain cuts noticeably faster, for me, on my saws, in the wood I cut. "Properly sharpened" is the key. Semi-chisel is a big more forgiving when sharpening and if you are hitting the ground, but is certainly slower. On full-chisel, once that leading corner is dull, the chain won't cut well, period.


Chisel does cut faster in soft woods. But not so much diff in hard woods.


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## Tiewire

RS in green standing trees that I get to fall and cut up. RM when cutting dry wood or wood in brush piles.


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## HD2010

I mostly use RM because they are more forgiving in dirty wood. I have a couple loops of RS but they are just odd balls from saw purchases or something. I have been buying RM.


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## longbowch

I think rm might be better for noodling also. imo


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## luckydozenfarm

mdavlee said:


> I've never noticed chisel to be any more jumpy when limbing than semi chisel. If you're using full skip then that could be the reason.


 I run the RM chain with the double hump tie straps on my limbing saws.. the initial grab is considerably less than a full aggressive RS chain. Sometimes I don't have both hands on my saw when I'm tangled up in the limbs, and makes it less likely the saw will jump out of my hands or pull me off balance into the cut. I could care less how fast it cuts through limbs.


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## mdavlee

Never ran any of that stuff. If I get it I cut the double hump off first thing so I don't have to file it later on.


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## luckydozenfarm

mdavlee said:


> Never ran any of that stuff. If I get it I cut the double hump off first thing so I don't have to file it later on.



I used to think that it was wussy to run that kind of chain too. I mean I'm 6'4" and 230 lbs..but I had an instance where I was directly standing on a felled tree, leaning over cutting limbs and I didn't have any rpms going on the chain when I laid into a cut. The minute I hit the trigger the RS chain bit really hard into the wood and pulled me off balance and I fell right onto the running chainsaw. Luckily the chain brake did its job and I was completely unhurt , but after that I switched over. It could have been just a freak instance but I can see the difference on the "grab-iness" of the two chains. Something I like to not have when I'm surrounded by tree limbs and not having very good footing. 
I literally have thousands of hours on a chainsaw and I have cut down hundreds and hundreds of trees, and I can say I have almost been seriously hurt by them twice. Both of them have come from de-limbing felled trees by using to much testosterone in either my saw or the type of chain.


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## GrassGuerilla

I have a couple loops of RS. It might be a tad faster in the right conditions (IE in the tree cutting clean wood). But once the trees been felled, and thus bounced in the dirt, any advantage goes away. Any dirt trapped in bark, smeared on one side etc, dulls it too quick for it to be practical for me. With the majority of my wood coming from brush removal, or standing dead, there's just too much hard, dry, dirty wood to make it worthwhile. Maybe for a climber, or if you have lots of clean green wood. Maybe buy one and try it in your conditions comparing it back to back with semi-chisel (RM). I'd bet you'll find more often the RM is a better choice.

As a side note, I really hate Stihl's system for chains. It makes comparing between other brands far more complicated than need be. Finding the closest product of their competitors (?) is next to impossible.


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## mdavlee

I limb with 70-90 cc saws and make sure that rpms are up or it will pull the saw out of your hands. I've only had one loop of the stuff in the whole 13 years I've been running saws. Its not a common item at the local saw shops.


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## Nuzzy

If green safety chain works for ya, then by all means use it; I have no patience for it.

Cutting both hardwood in Michigan and all the offerings of the PNW, I have personally always found RS to be faster, both in cut time and daily production. Knowing how to buck carefully and keeping the chain out of the dirt goes a long ways. A tree falling on the ground doesn't pick up enough dirt to be problematic. The only times I'll pop on the RM is for logs I know have been skidded without being suspended, or for clearing dirty rotten logs that are often more soil than wood.


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## GrassGuerilla

For the record, both RS, and RM are available in "green" and "yellow". Always seems to be some confusion on this. Probably the root of the issue.


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## sunfish

GrassGuerilla said:


> As a side note, I really hate Stihl's system for chains. It makes comparing between other brands far more complicated than need be. Finding the closest product of their competitors (?) is next to impossible.


Use the chain chart on Bailey's.com. 

I actually like Oregon a little better than stihl chain (Not the box store safety chain).


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## Nuzzy

GrassGuerilla said:


> For the record, both RS, and RM are available in "green" and "yellow". Always seems to be some confusion on this. Probably the root of the issue.




I agree, there is much confusion in the chain description world! Many independent attributes that often get muddled together...


A safety chain generally has extra tie strap humps
A chain can be semi chisel or full chisel (cutter shape)
A chain can be full house, full comp, half skip, or full skip (teeth configuration to tie straps)
A chain can be square ground or round ground (type of file used)

Obviously not everything can work together, but more so than not, you could pull at random the options above out of a fish bowl and a chain would exist that fits.


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## memory

GrassGuerilla said:


> For the record, both RS, and RM are available in "green" and "yellow". Always seems to be some confusion on this. Probably the root of the issue.



Well crap, I didn't realize this. I just went to my local Stihl dealer/hardware store and picked up a 25" loop of 33 RM3 84 for my Stihl 441. I got home, took it out of the package and realized it has the safety hump and is labeled green. I didn't know this chain is available in both yellow and green, the salesman didn't ask either. I assume it would be worth a trip to return this chain for the yellow semi chisel.

I decided to try semi chisel because 99% of the wood we cut is dirty, mostly from being drug on the ground.


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## GrassGuerilla

memory said:


> Well crap, I didn't realize this. I just went to my local Stihl dealer/hardware store and picked up a 25" loop of 33 RM3 84 for my Stihl 441. I got home, took it out of the package and realized it has the safety hump and is labeled green. I didn't know this chain is available in both yellow and green, the salesman didn't ask either. I assume it would be worth a trip to return this chain for the yellow semi chisel.
> 
> I decided to try semi chisel because 99% of the wood we cut is dirty, mostly from being drug on the ground.



Fresh out of the box, yellow and green versions will cut similarly. Exception being that yellow will plunge cut much better, and you'll have less metal to remove when lowering rakers. If you hand file, lowering the extra hump on the green chain is the biggest drawback. 

If you limb with that saw you would be safer with green. If you occasionally bore cut, get a yellow.


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## memory

I do limb with this saw but not up in a tree, it is all done on the ground. I rarely ever had to do a bore cut, maybe every once in a while but not to often.

I do hand file so it would probably be worth it to get a yellow. I just have a feeling that he will not have a yellow semi chisel in stock, I only seen one place for 25" semi chisel on the shelf.


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## Nuzzy

memory said:


> Well crap, I didn't realize this. I just went to my local Stihl dealer/hardware store and picked up a 25" loop of 33 RM3 84 for my Stihl 441. I got home, took it out of the package and realized it has the safety hump and is labeled green. I didn't know this chain is available in both yellow and green, the salesman didn't ask either. I assume it would be worth a trip to return this chain for the yellow semi chisel.
> 
> I decided to try semi chisel because 99% of the wood we cut is dirty, mostly from being drug on the ground.




RM3 is the green version 
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/saw-chains/rmc3/

"STIHL RAPID™ Micro™ 3 is the low-kickback version of STIHL RAPID™ Micro™ saw chain. RM3 retains all the performance of STIHL RM chain, with the added benefit of low kickback to reduce the risk of kickback injury. "


I believe RM is always yellow.
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/saw-chains/rm/


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## Nuzzy

memory said:


> I do hand file so it would probably be worth it to get a yellow. I just have a feeling that he will not have a yellow semi chisel in stock, I only seen one place for 25" semi chisel on the shelf.





I've found going into a dealer (or wherever) knowing the exact part number/chain type you want is really the only safe guard. My closest Stihl dealer used to be a John Deere dealership; holy hell those guys behind the parts counter knew nothing pertinent to chainsaws other than the very basic...


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## Nuzzy

GrassGuerilla said:


> For the record, both RS, and RM are available in "green" and "yellow". Always seems to be some confusion on this. Probably the root of the issue.




And to clarify further:

RS and RM are yellow
RS3 and RM3 are the green low kickback versions


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## GrassGuerilla

Nuzzy said:


> And to clarify further:
> 
> RS and RM are yellow
> RS3 and RM3 are the green low kickback versions



Despite having an IQ well over room temperature I still won't remember that next time I need chains. Did I mention that I like Stihl chains, but hate their terminology?


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## memory

When I saw I was the chain was labeled RM3, I asked the guy what the 3 meant and he didn't know. So if that tells you anything, I don't think I would trust them to work on my saw. I did see someone dropping off a saw to be worked on. 

Something I don't understand, why does that extra hump affect how it cuts? I mean, if both humps are the same height, why would it affect how it cuts?


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## Nuzzy

GrassGuerilla said:


> Despite having an IQ well over room temperature I still won't remember that next time I need chains. Did I mention that I like Stihl chains, but hate their terminology?




 No kidding! It only adds to the fun that they've changed and dropped letters in recent years...


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## Stlshrk

memory said:


> When I saw I was the chain was labeled RM3, I asked the guy what the 3 meant and he didn't know. So if that tells you anything, I don't think I would trust them to work on my saw. I did see someone dropping off a saw to be worked on.
> 
> Something I don't understand, why does that extra hump affect how it cuts? I mean, if both humps are the same height, why would it affect how it cuts?


 
The extra hump just keeps the cutter from getting as good of a bite, mostly at the nose of the bar on a bore cut or if reaching out for something. Maybe reaching while limbing or something and just a touch on a limb and -- WHAM -- there would be the kickback rotation.


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## Nuzzy

memory said:


> Something I don't understand, why does that extra hump affect how it cuts? I mean, if both humps are the same height, why would it affect how it cuts?




As long as you're cutting on the flat part of the bar, and assuming the extra hump is at or below the level of the raker, it wouldn't really affect anything. However, when the extra hump flexes around the bar tip before the raker on the tooth, it effectively creates a bumper to keep the chain away from the wood. Hence why it's bad for bore cuts.










http://northernwoodlands.org/articles/article/tricks-of-the-trade11

"Some chainsaw chains are designed to minimize the reactive force known as kickback. These chains are found on a wide range of chainsaws made for homeowners, arborists, and loggers and are required to be sold on every new saw with an engine displacement of less than 66 cubic centimeters.

To understand how these chains work, let’s first review how a standard saw chain cuts wood fiber. Each cutter link has a heel, a toe, and, on the bottom half, rivet holes. On the top half, from front to back, you’ll find the depth gauge, the gullet, the cutting corner, the side plate, and the top plate. The depth gauge, which is sometimes erroneously referred to as the raker, does not clean out the chip the way a raker does on a crosscut saw. All the depth gauge does is set the depth or thickness of the chip that will be produced by the cutting corner when it hooks and then severs fiber. Depth gauges function as a safety feature, because by regulating the size of the chip, they also regulate the severity of reactive forces. The thicker the chip, the more severe the potential kickback.

To minimize the possibility of reactive forces, kickback-reducing features on chains limit the amount of fiber that can be hooked by the working corner as it rounds the upper half of the bar tip, which is commonly referred to as the kickback zone.

A common way to do this is to add an extra amount of metal onto the tie straps between the cutting teeth such that the tie strap functions as a higher depth gauge as the chain rounds the upper half of the bar tip. (Tie straps connect the cutting links with the drive links, and so-called bumper tie straps have a higher profile than regular tie straps to prevent the cutting tooth from hooking fiber.) Other anti-kickback approaches include drive links with built-in bumpers and ramped depth gauges so that fiber is somewhat deflected as the chain rounds the kickback zone. Chain must meet ANSI standard B175.1 to be designated as low-kickback.

There are two major drawbacks to low-kickback chain, the first being that it renders the kickback zone nearly useless for bore cutting. If your chainsaw work involves mostly bucking firewood, this is not likely to be a problem. It is, however, a problem if you are felling trees directionally using a bore cut to make your backcut (itself a safety technique intended to minimize “barber chair” and other dangerous felling situations). Because that upper half of the bar tip won’t cut well, bore cuts go very slowly if they go at all with low-kickback chain.

The second drawback to safety chain is that it can be more difficult to sharpen. If you take your saw to the dealer for sharpening anyway, this isn’t a problem, but if you sharpen the saw yourself and end up not keeping the chain suitably sharp, you’ll end up introducing a new risk factor – pressing down too hard on the saw in frustration – which can nullify the advantage of the safety chain in the first place. As with anything else, the key to a safety device is knowing how to use it correctly."


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## windthrown

Wow... lots of variable info here. Stihl chain guides are confusing, as are their labels.

RM is rapid micro. It is semi-chisel. The chisel in the edge '7' is filed off for a curved shape '?' cutter. When round filed, the outer edge of the cutter deflects sand, grit and crud and thus stays sharp longer than full chisel. RM comes in safety (green master link) and non-safety (yellow master link). Non-safety comes in full comp and in skip, and full comp was called RM but was replaced with RMC (comfort), which was renamed RM later (confusing?). RM in skip is (and was) RMF. There are and have been several types of safety RM; RM2 had the huge double hump safety rakers that people are talking about here (shown in the photo in the post above), but Stihl no longer makes that stiff. It was the standard loop in all non-pro saws for many years. RMC3 replaced it but was renamed RM3. RM3 is designed so that the safety rakers are next to the cutter rakers on the flat of the bar, but they are flexed when the chain goes around the nose, thus adding more raker area and keeping the bar nose from grabbing as much and causing kickback.

RS is rapid super. It is full chisel. The chisel in the edge '7' is left on the cutters. The outer edge of the full chisel cuts through wood faster, but it also dulls faster, and will dull really fast if it hits any crud, sand or grit. RS also comes in safety and non-safety. Non-safety comes in full comp and in skip, as well as 'L'. Full comp non-safety round file was called RS but was redesigned to RSC (comfort), and then RSC was renamed RS. RS in skip is (and was) RSF. Safety RS was RSC3 but is now called RS3. There is also the round file RSK type chain that is designed for longer bars over 28 inches. Then there are the RSL square file type loops in full comp (RSLK), semi skip (RSLHK), and full skip (RSLFK).

In general, full chisel round filed loops cut about 10% faster than semi-chisel round filed loops, and full chisel square filed loops cut about 10-15% faster than full chisel round filed loops. Full chisel round filed loops will dull faster than semi chisel loops, and in any crud, they will dull a LOT faster. Square filed loops will dull way faster as the inside of the chisel is filed to a thin point. Square file chains are also a lot harder to file correctly, and I never got the hang of it. I have one square file loop and I never use it. I keep my RM2 safety semi loops for cutting in any potentially naily wood, like fence posts and yard trees. I use RM non-safety for wood cutting, stump cutting, and for cutting trees like willow that have a lot of grit in the bark (sparks fly!). For noodle/curly fry cutting, I use RS full chisel skip, as the noodles seem to clear better using skip. In clean wood (cross cutting) I use RS or RSF.


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## memory

I decided to return the chain and get the yellow semi chisel chain. Just to clarify, I want 33 RM 84 to get the yellow semi chisel, right? Is it possible to get the safety chain if you buy the RM series? I just want to make sure that the dealer orders the right part.

Lots of good info in this thread.


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## Nuzzy

memory said:


> I decided to return the chain and get the yellow semi chisel chain. Just to clarify, I want 33 RM 84 to get the yellow semi chisel, right? Is it possible to get the safety chain if you buy the RM series? I just want to make sure that the dealer orders the right part.
> 
> Lots of good info in this thread.




That is my understanding, and seems to be corroborated by the chain section of the Stihl site.

RM (RMC) -- http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/saw-chains/rm/






"STIHL RAPID™ Micro™ is a taller-profile chain with more mass for larger displacement engines. Featuring a semi-chisel type of cutter, it typically doesn’t get dull as fast as a full-chisel chain during normal use, making it easier to maintain.

Applications: The RM chain is ideal for felling, bucking and limbing. It is a general-purpose chain for the high demands of full-time professionals in agriculture, construction and the forestry industry, but it is also suitable for homeowner users."



RM3 (RMC3) -- http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/saw-chains/rmc3/






"*STIHL RAPID™ Micro™ 3 is the low-kickback version of STIHL RAPID™ Micro™ saw chain. RM3 retains all the performance of STIHL RM chain, with the added benefit of low kickback to reduce the risk of kickback injury.* It is a taller-profile chain with more mass for chain saws with larger displacement engines. Featuring a semi-chisel type of cutter, it typically doesn’t get dull as fast as a full-chisel chain during normal use, making it easier to maintain.

Applications: The RM3 chain is ideal for felling, bucking and limbing. It is a general-purpose chain for the high demands of full-time professionals in agriculture, construction and the forestry industry, but it is also suitable for occasional users."


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## Nuzzy

memory said:


> Just to clarify, I want 33 RM 84 to get the yellow semi chisel, right?




Also (and since we're dissecting Stihl chain), the first 3 designates a 3/8" pitch, the second 3 designates .050" gauge for the bar, and 84 is the drive link count. 


http://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent/.../STIHL-Saw-Chain-Selection-Identification.pdf


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## windthrown

memory said:


> I decided to return the chain and get the yellow semi chisel chain. Just to clarify, I want 33 RM 84 to get the yellow semi chisel, right? Is it possible to get the safety chain if you buy the RM series?


 
Yes, RM comes in safety which is RM3 (or older RMC3, or discontinued RM2). RM non-safety is RM (or RMC, or older RM non-C). For a 25 inch bar, you would order 33RM-84 for 0.050 gauge, or 36RM-84 for a 0.063 gauge bar. I have found RM loops to be harder to get.


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## Nuzzy

If the box says RM or RMC, you will get yellow.

If it says RM3 or RMC3, kindly offer to move it to the womens' lingerie section of the store. opcorn:


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## memory

I told him to order the right chain, 33RM-84. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't possible to get safety chain in the RM version which it looks like it isn't possible.


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## windthrown

Well, I went into the Stihl shop in Cottage Grove, OR some years ago and ordered up a few loops of RM, and they made them out of RM2~!~! They apologized, and made the real RM loops up for me and tossed the others into the little grey boxes ad put them on the shelf.


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## Whitespider

memory said:


> *I just wanted to make sure it wasn't possible to get safety chain in the RM version which it looks like it isn't possible.*



Say what??
There's several posts in this thread explaining it... *YES*, both the RM and RS chains come in both configurations.
If the part number contains the "3"... as in RM3 (older designation was RMC3), rather than plain RM (older designation was RMC)... it is what you're calling "safety chain" (humped tie straps, green label, reduced kick-back).
*


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## memory

Whitespider said:


> Say what??
> There's several posts in this thread explaining it... *YES*, both the RM and RS chains come in both configurations.
> If the part number contains the "3"... as in RM3 (older designation was RMC3), rather than plain RM (older designation was RMC)... it is what you're calling "safety chain" (humped tie straps, green label, reduced kick-back).
> *



That isn't what I meant. What I meant was if I ordered let's say 33RM-84, is it possible I could be getting a safety chain? From what I understand, if I specifically ask for an RM chain, not RM3 or RMC3, there is no chance of getting a safety chain. Sorry for the confusion.


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## KenJax Tree

Not unless they screw up and ship RMC3 instead.


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## Whitespider

Yeah, I've asked for both RM and RS before and have the dealer hand me RM3 or RS3, and at more than one dealer.
Stihl recommends low kick-back ("3") for nearly all their saws... and I've had several "not-so-full-service" dealers tell me they only carry and sell what is recommended. 
I've gone to specifying "yellow" label when asking for or ordering chain, as in I will say "26RM-67 Yellow Label"... and I'll still get handed the "green" on occasion.

The dealer I use most often has pre-cut, packaged chains hanging on a rack... all of the PICCO and .325 are "RM3", all of 3/8 are "RS3". He has others, or can make them up, but you have to ask. I asked him why he did it that way and he told me most of the guys don't have a clue, and he'd rather they error on the "safest" side or at least per manufacturer recommendation... so he just displays what is "recommended". But the guys that do have a clue will ask... and he'll sell 'em what they ask for.

I can see his point... half the guys I know think a chain-is-a-chain, and half of them are likely to put the damn thing on backwards‼
*


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## Deleted member 116684

i use rs, but then, i love to sharpen chains...


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## Glockem45

This is the best thread about chains I have found on this website. Thanks for all the quality discussion here.


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## cre73

That darn yellow and green I cannot tell apart, being color blind. Just have to remember my part number.


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## flotek

Rs cuts fast ..also chips and goes to crap much faster too the rm is your big name overpriced basic chain . Oregon lgx is my favorite .its cheaper it Cuts faster and lasts longer between sharpenings . Used the Stihl chain for years but got tired of running to the Stihl stealer ship and blowing 27$ On one. I found the Stihl chains to be too brittle . I order lgx on eBay shipped to my door for 19$ now


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## sunfish

flotek said:


> Rs cuts fast ..also chips and goes to crap much faster too the rm is your big name overpriced basic chain . Oregon lgx is my favorite .its cheaper it Cuts faster and lasts longer between sharpenings . Used the Stihl chain for years but got tired of running to the Stihl stealer ship and blowing 27$ On one. I found the Stihl chains to be too brittle . I order lgx on eBay shipped to my door for 19$ now


Same here, used Stihl chain for years! But not much anymore.

Use LPX & BPX also and pay less than ebay prices.


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## svk

For me the RS lasts significantly longer than LGX or any Carlton or Oregon semi chisel (over double the mileage) before it needed to be sharpened assuming I kept them out of the rocks. I have a couple loops of semi chisel chain left and when I switch back to them I subconsciously wonder what is wrong with the saw LOL. I will be converting to all full chisel once those chains are worn out sometime this year. I normally don't have to cut trees in gritty conditions up here so the extra mileage from semi isn't an issue. 

I have a fleet supply locally that has fairly reasonable prices on Stihl chain. It is still 3-5 bucks more per loop than Oregon but not double like the Stihl MSRP.


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## clemsonfor

Last 20" lgx loops I bought were $10 shipped to my door. I won't touch a stihl chain again for their price. You can almost always find the 72LGX for $15 shipped on sale as well.

Stihl may be a tad better but oregon chain is good too and probably the #1 brand chain used. And at half price to me its a no brainer. And chain labeling is very confusing.


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## Oldman47

LGX chain is full chisel so a bit less tolerant of dirty wood but it cuts fast and you can sharpen a 20 inch loop in about 5 to 10 minutes in the field. Just drive the stump vice into a stump, lock down the saw bar, adjust your Granberg File-n-Joint or the similar Oregon sharpener guide and file the chain. You will be back in business in under 10 minutes with a chain that is sharper than any brand new chain. Now that I own a File-n-Joint I am seeing the identical Oregon guide for about $10 less than I paid available at Lowes but still far less than a couple of spare chains.


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## svk

Oldman47 said:


> LGX chain is full chisel so a bit less tolerant of dirty wood but it cuts fast and you can sharpen a 20 inch loop in about 5 to 10 minutes in the field. Just drive the stump vice into a stump, lock down the saw bar, adjust your Granberg File-n-Joint or the similar Oregon sharpener guide and file the chain. You will be back in business in under 10 minutes with a chain that is sharper than any brand new chain. Now that I own a File-n-Joint I am seeing the identical Oregon guide for about $10 less than I paid available at Lowes but still far less than a couple of spare chains.


On this topic, I have heard the quality of the Granberg has varied over the years, but usually it was the better tool. Would you say the current offerings from Granberg and Oregon are equal, or is one better?


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## Oldman47

I really liked one of the Oregon ones at Lowes when I saw it yesterday, but that was the one with the dusty packaging. The one in the clean package did not look nearly as high quality. Model number was identical.


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## svk

Oldman47 said:


> I really liked one of the Oregon ones at Lowes when I saw it yesterday, but that was the one with the dusty packaging. The one in the clean package did not look nearly as high quality. Model number was identical.


Might be wise to scour Ebay for a NOS one then. I heard someone had picked up a granberg recently and the casting was really poor...cant remember which thread though.....


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## capetrees

Back to the RM vs RS, I have recently learned that I may have been sharpening my chains at angles appropriate for as RS but may be running RM. My local supplier "thinks" he sells yellow RM only but isn't sure. I've been sharpening the chains at 30-60-90 (RS specs) and maybe they should be 30-75-90, (RM specs). Is there any way to tell once out of the box if a chain is RM or RS? Any imprints on the chain or link lengths or setups?


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## clemsonfor

capetrees said:


> Back to the RM vs RS, I have recently learned that I may have been sharpening my chains at angles appropriate for as RS but may be running RM. My local supplier "thinks" he sells yellow RM only but isn't sure. I've been sharpening the chains at 30-60-90 (RS specs) and maybe they should be 30-75-90, (RM specs). Is there any way to tell once out of the box if a chain is RM or RS? Any imprints on the chain or link lengths or setups?


It's sold the same number of links and usually lengths.

The only way to tell is look at it one is semi chisel and on chisel. One looks like a 7 and one like ?

There obvious if you look at them.


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## sunfish

capetrees said:


> My local supplier "thinks" he sells yellow RM only but isn't sure.


He doesn't know what he's selling?


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## capetrees

sunfish said:


> He doesn't know what he's selling?



He knows what he's selling to a point. No a lot of "pros" in this area that buy and use chainsaws so what he sells has always been good enough for the customers. Leave it to me to ask a question and now he's putting some thought into it. He's probably always going to sell yellow RM from now on. He's apparently been sharpening the chains the same as I have, 30-60-90 on all the chains without complaint because he didn't know. Mistake? Yes, but now he's correcting that. 




clemsonfor said:


> It's sold the same number of links and usually lengths.
> 
> The only way to tell is look at it one is semi chisel and on chisel. One looks like a 7 and one like ?
> 
> There obvious if you look at them.



Looking at the two chains out of the box, yes, it would be obvious but is it still obvious after I have perhaps taken an RM and sharpened it to the specs of an RS?


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## clemsonfor

capetrees said:


> He knows what he's selling to a point. No a lot of "pros" in this area that buy and use chainsaws so what he sells has always been good enough for the customers. Leave it to me to ask a question and now he's putting some thought into it. He's probably always going to sell yellow RM from now on. He's apparently been sharpening the chains the same as I have, 30-60-90 on all the chains without complaint because he didn't know. Mistake? Yes, but now he's correcting that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at the two chains out of the box, yes, it would be obvious but is it still obvious after I have perhaps taken an RM and sharpened it to the specs of an RS?


Yes. Cause you can't change the shape of the cutter by sharpening it. Loot at the edge where the top plate rolls over to go down to the tie strap. Or best case look at the back of the cutter. This is where you see that "7" shape or the "?"shape. When I say back. Look at the back side of the cutter , not the one you sharpen. Look down the chain. The tie strap and top Plat will either look like a 7 OR ?.


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## capetrees

And so from what I'm reading in here, 7 is RS and ? is RM.

I have brand new RM and my chains look like it so I guess I've been sharpening them to the wrong angle. I'm going to look at an RS today to compare just for my own piece of mind so I know what to look for in the future.


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## clemsonfor

Oh yes. Your correct. RS is full chisel or 7


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## GVS

svk said:


> On this topic, I have heard the quality of the Granberg has varied over the years, but usually it was the better tool. Would you say the current offerings from Granberg and Oregon are equal, or is one better?


I have both the Oregon and Granberg.My opinion and experience :Granberg is the better of the two.The Oregon must have had the angle scale fouled up in some way from the left side of the saw to the right.After a few sharpenings the saw would begin sawing in circles.


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## Philbert

capetrees said:


> Is there any way to tell once out of the box if a chain is RM or RS? Any imprints on the chain or link lengths or setups?


It is best, in my opinion, to step back from the trademarked, brand names and use general, descriptive terms.

- '_Full Chisel_' cutters have flat top plates and flat side plates that meet along a sharp side edge, and have a sharp leading point. They look most like the numeral seven ('7'). It is the fastest cutting chain, until that point gets dull or damaged;

- '_Semi-Chisel'_ cutters also have flat top plates and flat side plates, but meet along a curved/radiused side edge. They lack that sharp leading point, which makes them less susceptible to damage, but do not cut quite as fast. The degree of radius can vary among different brand or models of chain, so you have to look closely. They are the '_all-season radials_' of saw chain, IMO:

- '_Chipper_' cutters form an almost continuous curve as they transition from the top to the side plates. These are the ones that really look like a question mark ('?'). Chipper chain cut slowest, but continued to cut the longest in dirty wood, As I understand it, it is no longer being produced for hand-held chain saws, although, some loops, and some reels of 'barn find' chain are still floating around.


(Carlton)





capetrees said:


> I have recently learned that I may have been sharpening my chains at angles appropriate for as RS but may be running RM.



The 'ideal' angles will vary with the species of wood, wood condition (e.g. frozen?), your saw, technique, etc. Think of manufacturer's recommended angles as starting points for general cutting. Bottom line is if the work for you. Experiment a bit, but don't sweat it unless you are racing.

Philbert


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## Philbert

svk said:


> On this topic, I have heard the quality of the Granberg has varied over the years, but usually it was the better tool. Would you say the current offerings from Granberg and Oregon are equal, or is one better?



Oldest Granbergs were '_File-N-Grind_': had a shorter base. Newer versions are '_File-N-Joint'_: have a larger, more stable base. The brand names and models have varied over the years, with older ones still available used on eBay. The physical size has also varied quite a bit. 

Current Granberg is G 106B - smaller than some older models, and cast in a lightweight alloy:
http://granberg.com/product/g106b-file-n-joint
https://www.baileysonline.com/Chain...nberg-File-N-Joint-Precision-Filing-Guide.axd

Current Oregon models are their large, all metal, Professional (model23736A):
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/accessories/barmountfileguide.htm
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...849-Professional-Bar-Mounted-Filing-Guide.axd

The Oregon Sure Sharp (model 23820 ) is no longer listed in their catalog, but available in many stores, and on line, for about half the cost. Smaller and more plastic, but works.

More info in this thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/

Philbert


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## Cody

capetrees said:


> Back to the RM vs RS, I have recently learned that I may have been sharpening my chains at angles appropriate for as RS but may be running RM. My local supplier "thinks" he sells yellow RM only but isn't sure. I've been sharpening the chains at 30-60-90 (RS specs) and maybe they should be 30-75-90, (RM specs). Is there any way to tell once out of the box if a chain is RM or RS? Any imprints on the chain or link lengths or setups?



What I've noticed with Stihl chain is that if the colored tie strap is on the left side it is full chisel chain, and with the semi chisel the colored tie strap is on the right side of the chain. That should be a dead giveaway but I could be wrong. I've never had Stihls square chisel chain in hand.


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## Philbert

Cody said:


> . . . if the colored tie strap is on the left side it is full chisel chain, and with the semi chisel the colored tie strap is on the right side of the chain. . .



Interesting theory, but unlikely to be that consistent. Especially if the loops are made up in a shop off of a bulk roll. 

Philbert


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## Cody

Philbert said:


> Interesting theory, but unlikely to be that consistent. Especially if the loops are made up in a shop off of a bulk roll.
> 
> Philbert



Like I said I could be wrong but I've got dozens of Stihl chains that came from boxes and all are consistent. Dealers around here don't do off the roll stuff and I agree with if it was a dealer that it would be the opposite, would they even have the colored tie straps? I don't know. I don't know where Stihl packages their boxed chains but I would imagine they do have a process in which that little colored tie strap means more than one may think. The company I worked for now makes both the earth and ice augers for Stihl and they had VERY strict procedures. They would refuse a whole shipment of augers/extensions if a label wasn't put on properly on just one box.


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## Philbert

STIHL has a whole catalog of chain parts. Hundreds of individual pieces, once you add up each of the separate components (up to 7 per loop?), for each type of chain, in every pitch, and including older styles/models. 

The colored tie straps are in there, and dealers can order them. Although, I assume that most use the proper colored tie straps packed with each 100 foot roll of chain.

Philbert


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## Philbert

Just to be fair, I went down and dug out the 2 new loops of STIHL chain I have (the color gets worn off the tie straps fast on used chains). 
Both are 16", semi-chisel, low-kickback chains: 26RMC3-62 (.325, .063, 62 DL).
Both have the green tie strap on the left-hand side.

This may vary with the drive link count, and type of chain, because of cutter sequencing, etc.?
Because STIHL is so consistent, all of yours may be consistently on the same side, if they are all the same DL count? Just speculating.

Philbert


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## Keating

I was surprised to look at my MS230 and see that it came new from the shop with a full chisel, "yellow" chain.
There are no coloured tie straps on it, but there are no ramps on the drive links and they are very obviously "7" rather than "?" shaped cutters.
I'd expect the saws to arrive at the dealer, supplied with a "Factory recommended chain". (RM3)
Or do they just get in the powerheads and install the bar and chain of their choosing?


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## Cody

Philbert said:


> Just to be fair, I went down and dug out the 2 new loops of STIHL chain I have (the color gets worn off the tie straps fast on used chains).
> Both are 16", semi-chisel, low-kickback chains: 26RMC3-62 (.325, .063, 62 DL).
> Both have the green tie strap on the left-hand side.
> 
> This may vary with the drive link count, and type of chain, because of cutter sequencing, etc.?
> Because STIHL is so consistent, all of yours may be consistently on the same side, if they are all the same DL count? Just speculating.
> 
> Philbert



Both having the green tie strap on the left hand would correspond to what I'm seeing. Just for the record as well I'm talking about boxed up chain, but as mentioned before I do not know where the boxing is being done at. As for drive link count, no I have chain sizes for 16,20,25,28, and 36" chain. Drive link count I believe would be 60, 72, 84, 91, and 114. Most all of the chains are fairly new, few years old maybe, some have been bought locally, some have been bought off ebay and some through Bailey's. The 25" chains are my dad's and two of those are actually quite old, 4 or 5 years or more. When sharpening I always looked for that colored link as a starting point and it was then that I noticed the colored link was on the back(left) side. Since then I've just kind of kept an eye on that, maybe I'm weird but I just wanted to share it as it's how I identify my chains quickly.


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## Philbert

Cody said:


> What I've noticed with Stihl chain is that if the colored tie strap is on the left side it is full chisel chain, and with the semi chisel the colored tie strap is on the right side of the chain.





Philbert said:


> Both are . . . semi-chisel . . . chains: . . . Both have the green tie strap on the left-hand side.





Cody said:


> Both having the green tie strap on the left hand would correspond to what I'm seeing.



I'm confused. Mine seem to be the opposite of what you posted earlier. No big deal.

Philbert


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## JeffGu

Ok, I couldn't resist... I have about four dozen new Stihl chains in the box. They include 63PM, 63PM3, 63PS, 63PS3, 71PM3, 26RM, 26RM3, 26RS, 26RS3, 33RM, 33RM3, 33RS, 33RSC, 33RS3 and 33RSF (skip tooth) type chains.
*Every single one of them had the colored tie strap on the left side, regardless of whether it was green or yellow.*
All of these were purchased within the last year, most within the last four months. I did not check any of the used chains, except the ones that were actually mounted on saws (11 chains) and they were the same, too. I don't think any of those are more than a year old, either. All of these are easy to identify as full- or semi-chisel at a glance, by looking at the cutter end profile. The full chisel cutters are a little wider, too.


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## clemsonfor

JeffGu said:


> Ok, I couldn't resist... I have about four dozen new Stihl chains in the box. They include 63PM, 63PM3, 63PS, 63PS3, 71PM3, 26RM, 26RM3, 26RS, 26RS3, 33RM, 33RM3, 33RS, 33RSC, 33RS3 and 33RSF (skip tooth) type chains.
> *Every single one of them had the colored tie strap on the left side, regardless of whether it was green or yellow.*
> All of these were purchased within the last year, most within the last four months. I did not check any of the used chains, except the ones that were actually mounted on saws (11 chains) and they were the same, too. I don't think any of those are more than a year old, either. All of these are easy to identify as full- or semi-chisel at a glance, by looking at the cutter end profile. The full chisel cutters are a little wider, too.


That's a lot of chains to have bought in the last year!!!

And yes chain identification is pretty easy just by looking at the cutter.


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## Little Al

KenJax Tree said:


> RM stays sharp longer because it has a corner kinda like this ? Where as RS has a corner like this 7 and once you knock that corner off its useless.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Autotune Carb


Always led to believe that RM is Semi chisel &RS is Full chisel Stand corrected if wrong.


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## clemsonfor

Your correct and that's what kenjax said also


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## Cody

Philbert said:


> I'm confused. Mine seem to be the opposite of what you posted earlier. No big deal.
> 
> Philbert



No you're correct, sleep is rare anymore for me so I must have been confused. I will go make 100% sure on my chains but it looks to be pure coincidence on the tie straps for me. I get some spare time and I'll look to see where I got each chain just for ***** n giggles. I found it odd when I noticed it but I am wrong on it as you'll read below. 




JeffGu said:


> Ok, I couldn't resist... I have about four dozen new Stihl chains in the box. They include 63PM, 63PM3, 63PS, 63PS3, 71PM3, 26RM, 26RM3, 26RS, 26RS3, 33RM, 33RM3, 33RS, 33RSC, 33RS3 and 33RSF (skip tooth) type chains.
> *Every single one of them had the colored tie strap on the left side, regardless of whether it was green or yellow.*
> All of these were purchased within the last year, most within the last four months. I did not check any of the used chains, except the ones that were actually mounted on saws (11 chains) and they were the same, too. I don't think any of those are more than a year old, either. All of these are easy to identify as full- or semi-chisel at a glance, by looking at the cutter end profile. The full chisel cutters are a little wider, too.



I did some looking at Bomgaars today and while I didn't go too in depth I grabbed RS and RM randomly and they all had the colored tie strap on the left side as well. Just when I thought I was on to something, oh well it'll work for me while I have these chains. I can just look up at the hook where I hang them and know without having to look at the cutter. I won't be buying anymore semi chisel anyways, thought I was being smart using that on dry ash logs but it's just not as smooth cutting. 20/100 eye site requires contacts but they actually make my vision worse when looking at something really up close, it's an excuse anyways.


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## clemsonfor

My guess is yours were made off a loop the ones with color on right if all others are opposite.


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## Cody

clemsonfor said:


> My guess is yours were made off a loop the ones with color on right if all others are opposite.



I know the semi chisel chains were all bought through Bailey's, I'm pretty sure all the full chisel was deals off of ebay except for the 36" chain that came on my 661, and the safety chain that came on my 261. the 25" chain for dad's 044 I do not know where it was bought but both links are on the left side as well as the few chains my buddy has out here for his 441. I went out there and looked at them all and I'm not ****in with you guys, I just figured that's the way it was.

You guys are saying all your colored tie straps are on the left side correct? All my chisel chain is on the left side, so only my semi chisel has them on the right side an all that came from Bailey's. Easy enough to figure out but damn, like I said before I thought I was on to em!


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## clemsonfor

I think bailey's spins up the loops.

I had a buddy that bought some stihl chain from bailey's and I think he said it didn't have a colored link?


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## Cody

clemsonfor said:


> I think bailey's spins up the loops.
> 
> I had a buddy that bought some stihl chain from bailey's and I think he said it didn't have a colored link?



That's what I would guess, I apologize for all the hoopla.


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## Philbert

If _all_ the loops have the colored tie strap on the same side, that might make sense. That could be linked to the assembly line, or manufacturing process.

Dealer made loops are less controlled. Today, I pulled out an unused loop at a GTG that had 74 cutters facing one way, and 4 facing the other. These rivets were clearly hand spun.

Philbert


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## JeffGu

clemsonfor said:


> That's a lot of chains to have bought in the last year!!!



Is this the part where I have to admit to how many chainsaws I bought in the last year? I refuse. It's not a sickness, I don't have a problem. I'm not in denial. It's perfectly normal to build a second garage to hold all your... uh... mmm... vintage car collection. Yeah, that's what is in there. It's not, like, a bunch of shelves with chainsaws on them or anything like that. I'm fine. Really.


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## Philbert

*Saw Chain Cutter Types
*
Here is an illustration, from the Carlton catalog, which may help.





In my mind (not the one pictured in the post above), there is *Chisel* chain, *Chipper *chain, and a range of things in-between that qualify as *Semi-Chisel* chain, even if it is called '_Micro Chisel_', '_Chamfer Chisel_', '_Rapid Micro_', or '_Ralph_'.

I am sure that there are some technical, engineering, and even performace differences between these middle chains, based on the cutter profile and radius of the corner, that keep engineers at STIHL and Oregon up late at night, but not enough to make a practical distinction for most of us, in this context.

Philbert


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## LoveStihlQuality

Nuzzy said:


> And to clarify further:
> 
> RS and RM are yellow
> RS3 and RM3 are the green low kickback versions


Exactly. I used to run RS (full chisel) but have switched to all RM (semi chisel). All hard wood. Just stays sharp longer.


513yj said:


> My dealer told me yellow links is pro chain, green links is low kickback stuff with the huge raker deal or whatever.





GrassGuerilla said:


> Despite having an IQ well over room temperature I still won't remember that next time I need chains. Did I mention that I like Stihl chains, but hate their terminology?




LoveStihlQuality


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## LoveStihlQuality

memory said:


> I decided to return the chain and get the yellow semi chisel chain. Just to clarify, I want 33 RM 84 to get the yellow semi chisel, right? Is it possible to get the safety chain if you buy the RM series? I just want to make sure that the dealer orders the right part.
> 
> Lots of good info in this thread.


Exactly. Keep empty box if you send someone, send box.

LoveStihlQuality


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## LoveStihlQuality

memory said:


> I told him to order the right chain, 33RM-84. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't possible to get safety chain in the RM version which it looks like it isn't possible.


Plain RS or RM are not safety. They will be yellow box. Also one of the tie straps will be yellow vs green for safety.

LoveStihlQuality


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## Little Al

clemsonfor said:


> I think bailey's spins up the loops.
> 
> I had a buddy that bought some stihl chain from bailey's and I think he said it didn't have a colored link?


The last 5 or so Stihl PS chain loops Iv'e bought from a main Stihl dealer ( I had to introduce him to PS chain ) now he doesn't want to sell any other Lo Pro chains have had no coloured tie strap I think he is spinning up loops from a roll & when i asked him about it his reply was (if you can't tell what chain you've got you shouldn't be using it) Wouldn't mind but he didn't even know about it until I enlightened him. Ah well at least I can now get loops at a good price.


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## clemsonfor

My buddy said he felt like he got the wrong thing and wanted to return it. I said well does the chain sat stihl and look like stihl chain. He said yes then I said you just have stihl chain wiTh an oregon tie strap or whatever...no big deal right?


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## Philbert

clemsonfor said:


> . . . . I said you just have stihl chain wiTh an oregon tie strap or whatever...no big deal right?


Anything is possible when people are involved!

My dealer has STIHL chain on 100' reels, that they spin to custom lengths, and pre-packaged (factory spun) loops for the more popular sizes. They also get custom spun loops from the regional distributor when someone wants a chain type that they do not normally stock.

The dealer has little drawers with parts for many brands of chains that they have sold over the years (which is nice for me!). They are supposed to use yellow STIHL tie straps of the correct size and type with pro STIHL chain, and green STIHL tie straps of the correct size and type with low-kickback STIHL chain. 

That does not mean that some folks can't make mistakes, or try to cut corners. I have seen tie straps installed inside out. I have seen tie straps from different types of STIHL or Oregon chains installed in loops. I just got a chain with 4 cutters spun in backwards! The low vibration chains even have different Right and Left side tie straps. Some Oregon tie straps _may_ fit some STIHL chains and vice versa, although, there are often differences in thickness, hole size and spacing, etc.

I don't encourage mixing brands, unless identical (e.g. an Oregon tie strap used on an identical Husqvarna chain made by Oregon). If the correct tie strap was used, then the lack of color is incidental, as it wears off quickly in use. If they put the wrong color on, and the customer relied on that information, then some lawyers might get interested.

Philbert


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## clemsonfor

Philbert said:


> Anything is possible when people are involved!
> 
> My dealer has STIHL chain on 100' reels, that they spin to custom lengths, and pre-packaged (factory spun) loops for the more popular sizes. They also get custom spun loops from the regional distributor when someone wants a chain type that they do not normally stock.
> 
> The dealer has little drawers with parts for many brands of chains that they have sold over the years (which is nice for me!). They are supposed to use yellow STIHL tie straps of the correct size and type with pro STIHL chain, and green STIHL tie straps of the correct size and type with low-kickback STIHL chain.
> 
> That does not mean that some folks can't make mistakes, or try to cut corners. I have seen tie straps installed inside out. I have seen tie straps from different types of STIHL or Oregon chains installed in loops. I just got a chain with 4 cutters spun in backwards! The low vibration chains even have different Right and Left side tie straps. Some Oregon tie straps _may_ fit some STIHL chains and vice versa, although, there are often differences in thickness, hole size and spacing, etc.
> 
> I don't encourage mixing brands, unless identical (e.g. an Oregon tie strap used on an identical Husqvarna chain made by Oregon). If the correct tie strap was used, then the lack of color is incidental, as it wears off quickly in use. If they put the wrong color on, and the customer relied on that information, then some lawyers might get interested.
> 
> Philbert


I didn't think about small differences in rivits and shape etc. Maybe it was just they used stihl non colored straps. I remember him saying There was not colored straps. Maybe they used two non colored straps?


On a side note I was fixing my jncles 026 which had stihl chain on it. I didn't pay enough attention as I didn't touch the bar or chain messing with it. But I think it's full 3/8" chain...on an 18" bar I think. But the yellow tie strap was on left.


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## Shawn Chamness

What is the best chain for a stihl ms 271? Right now it has green .325 .063 on it now. What can I get to cut better for falling tree's? I'm not really cutting up for fire wood. I own my own tree Service and that's the only saw I have right now. My 562xp needs rebuilt.


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## Hermio

Weighing in a bit late on this thread. I just cut firewood, and it is all hardwood. I normally drag the logs out into a field for safer cutting, though they do get muddy that way. I have used both RS and semi-chisel. The RS cuts probably 30-40% faster for me. I hand sharpen it after every 2 or 3 tanks of fuel, which is about 1 sharpening per cord cut. Yes, the dirt dulls the chain a bit, but not too bad after 2-3 tanks. My hand sharpening time was cut in half or more when I got the Pferd hand sharpening system (also marketed by Stihl at about twice the price); it takes me less than 5 minutes to put a keen edge on my chain, and the result is almost as good as having it jointed at a pro chain sharpening service. So, I still come out ahead compared to semi-chisel. I have also tried a few other brands of full chisel. All that I have tried, including Oregon, cut more slowly than the Stihl RS, and they dull more quickly. So, I think I will stick with Stihl RS from now on, though I will watch reviews from time to time. By way of background, I have used an older Remington saw, a little Echo saw, and Stihl 038 Super and MS441C saws. I just bought an MS500i.Looking forward to using it this fall. I do all my cutting in the fall, though sometimes it extends into January. I don't like cutting in summer. Hot and sweaty and too many insects!


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