# Here's what I've been up to.



## Timberwerks (Jul 29, 2006)

I'm no longer in the firewood buisiness because I decided to get back to furniture making full-time. Here is a recent project I think you guy's will like.


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## Adkpk (Jul 29, 2006)

Real nice. Is that maple? What finish did you use? Good idea to get back in the furniture business looks like you'll do well.


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## Timberwerks (Jul 29, 2006)

Thanks Adrpk

This table is made from Cherry, the bowties are made from Wenge. The finish is a Tung oil, Linseed oil and varnish mix. I'm working on a couple of Walnut tables now. This type of table design was made popular by the late George Nakashima, http://www.nakashimawoodworker.com/

Luckily I have a sawmill near by that cuts and drys these types of slabs.

Dale


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## Adkpk (Jul 29, 2006)

You mix the varnish tung and linseed together? Sometimes I put linseed first to give the wood a 'drink'. Then after sanding and working the piece I'll put a protective layer varnish. I always ask people who might know if they think the linseed will lift the varnish in time but no one has said definitly if it would or wouldn't. What do you think? I 've also been told that linseed will darken the wood in time so if I am working on a piece that is timeless ( like something I'm not going to give away or use outside) I will use tung oil. What are your experiences with this.


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## Timberwerks (Jul 29, 2006)

Adrpk said:


> You mix the varnish tung and linseed together? Sometimes I put linseed first to give the wood a 'drink'. Then after sanding and working the piece I'll put a protective layer varnish. I always ask people who might know if they think the linseed will lift the varnish in time but no one has said definitly if it would or wouldn't. What do you think? I 've also been told that linseed will darken the wood in time so if I am working on a piece that is timeless ( like something I'm not going to give away or use outside) I will use tung oil. What are your experiences with this.



Yes, everthing is mixed together. This type of finish is also called the Maloof mix, you can buy this pre mixed http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?...ADADADADGGNGBGMGPGPGGDADADADBDB&filter=maloof I like to mix my own because I go a little heavier on the varnish. Boiled Linseed oil will not lift a varnish provided that the Boiled Linseed is troughly dry, this could take a number of days or longer depending on humidity. Boiled Linseed oil is dry when you no longer smell it. Linseed oil will darken in time. This is not a high degree of darkening and it does take a long time. Tung oil is slightly more protective than linseed oil but linseed oil pops the grain better so I like to use a mix.

Dale


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## trimmmed (Jul 29, 2006)

That looks great, you'd make George proud. Kudos


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## Adkpk (Jul 29, 2006)

This is a stool I did in cherry the legs are yew.


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## Timberwerks (Jul 29, 2006)

That looks great. Did you do the tennons freehand or with a cutter?

Dale


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## Adkpk (Jul 29, 2006)

I used a logman tenon cutter. Got it from Bailey's. It's alright. My brother has the fancier tenon cutters I can use for work that is more important. I'm into rustic furniture mainly because I am sick of throwing out good wood. I am a landscaper and am always cutting wood. I save basically anything over two inches that is a hardwood. I especially like yew. Most of the stuff I make gets gobbled up by siblings, friends and people I owe favors too. I am always making something from something.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Aug 4, 2006)

Timberwerks said:


> I'm no longer in the firewood buisiness because I decided to get back to furniture making full-time. Here is a recent project I think you guy's will like.
> 
> ]




Great work. I'm a fan a George's work as well. Simple elegance.


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## fmueller (Aug 24, 2006)

That looks awesome. Its HUGE! How did you cut the original slabs and do you treat it to keep it from splitting or is that dried? By the way, nice looking shop.


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## Timberwerks (Aug 24, 2006)

fmueller said:


> That looks awesome. Its HUGE! How did you cut the original slabs and do you treat it to keep it from splitting or is that dried? By the way, nice looking shop.



Thanks

I bought this slab from a local sawmill. It is kiln dried and is 24" wide by 5' long and 1.5" thick.

Dale


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## M.D. Vaden (Aug 26, 2006)

Looks nice.

Did I ever mention that I got a trophy in a woodwork competition at the end of my senior year at Portland's Washington Square mall?

It was design award.

I gave up on woodworking because the fine dry sawdust caused too many pimples. Apparently, coarse pruning sawdust does not do that to me.


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## vharrison2 (Aug 30, 2006)

Nice work!


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## BlueRidgeMark (Aug 30, 2006)

Gorgeous! How did you secure the bowties? Glue? Anything?


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## Timberwerks (Aug 31, 2006)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> Gorgeous! How did you secure the bowties? Glue? Anything?



Thanks,

The bowties are set with glue and they are also screwed from the backside. The screw holes are plugged with a brass rod, this add's a little more character vs Cherry dowels.

Dale


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## buzz sawyer (Aug 31, 2006)

Timberwerks said:


> Thanks Adrpk
> 
> This table is made from Cherry, the bowties are made from Wenge. The finish is a Tung oil, Linseed oil and varnish mix. I'm working on a couple of Walnut tables now. This type of table design was made popular by the late George Nakashima, http://www.nakashimawoodworker.com/
> 
> ...


That's some beautiful work there. Thought I recognized the style. George is smiling!


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## fmueller (Sep 1, 2006)

You ever do any work with green wood where you treat it with some kind of glycol so it doesnt check?


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## Timberwerks (Sep 1, 2006)

fmueller said:


> You ever do any work with green wood where you treat it with some kind of glycol so it doesnt check?



No, but there are some wood turners in my area that do. I might give it a try sometime.

Dale


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