# Felling Question



## Pierreg (Jan 14, 2010)

Greetings.A simple question for the pro's.When you begin your wedge,is it a smart move to make the bottom of the wedge angle downhill? It seems that when the backcut is started,plastic wedge behind the bar,the tree seems very naturally starting to fall instead of a straight cut where sometimes atap,tap on the wedge will get the tree moving.I do not consider myself an expert and was wondering what the experts do.I just don't like that feeling when a tree comes back on your bar.The wedges for me are always close by to but in the backcut. Thanks for your input.


----------



## Dayto (Jan 14, 2010)

You should place a wedge in by hand as soon as you clear the bar (un-less its a leaner and you falling the lean then no need) And carry on with your backcut , tap wedge as needed. Then you never have to worry about getting pinched.And im sure you know when you tap wedges stay outta the bite(They can kick out , and bust you up) and LOOK UP!!!!

Just my .02 

WESTCOAST FALLER.


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 14, 2010)

Depends if its the wedge's back cut or the back cut's wedge really. . .


----------



## gwiley (Jan 14, 2010)

056 kid said:


> Depends if its the wedge's back cut or the back cut's wedge really. . .



Maybe it is just because I haven't had my morning coffee yet....please explain.

Wedges only take a second to use, when in doubt, wedge it. The time to free one bar pinched by a setback will cost you the equivalent time of dozens of quick wedgings.

I carry my wedges in a belt pouch with a hatchet for driving them so there is never a question - I just jam one in and keep rolling.


----------



## GASoline71 (Jan 14, 2010)

Guess I don't understand the question... I think the OP is refering to the face cut as the wedge, and also wedging from the back' cut as well??? 

Are you refering to the Humboldt face cut? where the "wedge" is cut under the first "straight" cut?

Or are you referring to an "angled" back cut... (which is a no-no) to hold wedges?

Gary


----------



## 2dogs (Jan 14, 2010)

I'm having a little trouble understanding the question too. The face cut is made up of the first two cuts made on the tree. The first cut I call the gunning cut, it determines the direction the tree will fall. The second cut is the angle cut, it comes down from above or up from below to intersect with the gunning cut. When the angled cut is made from the top down it is generally called conventional and when made from the bottom up it is called a Humboldt. Once the wood is popped out from betwen these two cuts you have made a face. Sometimes the face is called a smile, or a pie or some other regional term. It is wedge shaped but I would recommend you not call it a wedge to avoid confusion with a plastic felling wedge.

The felling cut, or backcut is the third cut made in the tree and causes the tree to fall over. This cut is made flat (level) and is where a wedge is inserted to prevent the tree from setting back and to get the tree moving when needed.

Regional lingo and slang terms can really confuse the subject. The more precise you are in your terminology here on AS the easier it will be to get a valid answer to your question. Dent's book can help you out in that regard. I use "west coast" jargon that I know the guys I work with can understand. East of the Sierras, well you are on your own, but standard terms just makes communicating easier.

Now about your question, maybe you could restate it.


----------



## bitzer (Jan 14, 2010)

Yeah it sounds like the wedge is the face cut and he may be talking about small diameter trees where there is not enough room to get a wedge in or a sloping backcut with a wedge in. 


Like 2DOGS said, put in the face and make a horizontal back cut, sloping backcuts are no good.


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 14, 2010)

gwiley said:


> Maybe it is just because I haven't had my morning coffee yet....please explain.
> 
> Wedges only take a second to use, when in doubt, wedge it. The time to free one bar pinched by a setback will cost you the equivalent time of dozens of quick wedgings.
> 
> I carry my wedges in a belt pouch with a hatchet for driving them so there is never a question - I just jam one in and keep rolling.



I dont get the question, i was punning with his use of "pro's". . .


----------



## Walt41 (Jan 14, 2010)

I believe the OP is referring to an "invert" or "bottom angle" face cut. I have seen them used but never used them, I cut using wedges, I even have some "minis" that I made from an old restaurant cutting board.


----------



## tramp bushler (Jan 14, 2010)

*O. K . Pierre I think I got ya .*

No to the first ? the back cut is supposed to ALWAYS be flat and level .. NO SLOPEING BACK CUTS ..All they do is mess everything up ... Flat and level ... 
. This is the problem with people useing funny terms ... A face is a face . Face forward. go the way the face is ... ... You can Notch here and Notch there notch , notch every where ...But you fall a tree or a whole forest by first putting the face in the base of any tree you are going to cut down ......
.
. There is everyone clear on this one word .. You face the way you want the tree to go !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
. flat and level back cuts ............
..
. I know Hammer loves some of his funny words ...... swarps and stuff , but there are 2 principal parts of a stump . The face , and the back cut ..Back cuts are always flat and level !!!!


----------



## GASoline71 (Jan 14, 2010)

Walt41 said:


> *I believe the OP is referring to an "invert" or "bottom angle" face cut.* I have seen them used but never used them, I cut using wedges, I even have some "minis" that I made from an old restaurant cutting board.



Are you talkin' about a Humboldt face cut?

Who's on first? 

What's on second?

I don't know... THIRD BASE!!!

Gary


----------



## Pierreg (Jan 14, 2010)

Greets.It wasn't my intention to confuse the issue.2dogs answered the ? I had. Simply asked if the cut on the side where the tree is going to fall,if it helps to have the second or face cut angling up to meet the first cut and give the tree incentive to fall.I guess this is called a Humbolt cut?I have had several"balanced" trees that needed one or two plastic wedges to start it over. I can see where the Humbolt style would be very practical.This isn't rocket science.The cuts are the same except for the uphill wedge. I always to make my backcut or final cut hoizontal too.I'm sure you can picture these cuts as you are the cutters. Thanks for the replies.


----------



## joesawer (Jan 15, 2010)

2dogs said:


> I'm having a little trouble understanding the question too. The face cut is made up of the first two cuts made on the tree. The first cut I call the gunning cut, it determines the direction the tree will fall. The second cut is the angle cut, it comes down from above or up from below to intersect with the gunning cut. When the angled cut is made from the top down it is generally called conventional and when made from the bottom up it is called a Humboldt. Once the wood is popped out from betwen these two cuts you have made a face. Sometimes the face is called a smile, or a pie or some other regional term. It is wedge shaped but I would recommend you not call it a wedge to avoid confusion with a plastic felling wedge.
> 
> The felling cut, or backcut is the third cut made in the tree and causes the tree to fall over. This cut is made flat (level) and is where a wedge is inserted to prevent the tree from setting back and to get the tree moving when needed.
> 
> ...






Lol....... My back cuts are not always level. My stump might have a siswheel and cut up to swing the tree tree to the high side of the face.
But yes as a general rule the back cut should be level.


----------



## tramp bushler (Jan 15, 2010)

It not just incentive , The face directs the directon of the fall ......Lets use the 45 degree angle as an example . first put in a flat level horizontal cut 1/3rd the diameter of the tree and on the side you want the tree to fall on .. Next make a 45 degree angle cut from either above or below the horizontal face cut . Make sure the two cuts meet perfectly and that one cut doesn't go past the other .. Knock that piece of wood out and that is the face of the tree ........ If you check the owners manuel of most all brands of chainsaws there is a diagram in them in a half a dozen different languages or more ,illustrating the felling of a mighty tree .....!!! 
. HIP HIP HOORAY ......another stump to the consternation or the unmentionables ...


----------



## 2dogs (Jan 15, 2010)

Pierreg said:


> Greets.It wasn't my intention to confuse the issue.2dogs answered the ? I had. Simply asked if the cut on the side where the tree is going to fall,if it helps to have the second or face cut angling up to meet the first cut and give the tree incentive to fall.I guess this is called a Humbolt cut?I have had several"balanced" trees that needed one or two plastic wedges to start it over. I can see where the Humbolt style would be very practical.This isn't rocket science.The cuts are the same except for the uphill wedge. I always to make my backcut or final cut hoizontal too.I'm sure you can picture these cuts as you are the cutters. Thanks for the replies.



Pierre the choice between a conventional face and a Humboldt face is not to make a balanced tree fall or to start toward the face. It is what you want the tree to do once it starts to fall. A conventional face will keep the tree attached to the stump via the hinge until it hits the ground. That means good control and a fast falling speed. The downside is likely more breakage. A Humboldt, esp with a snipe (A second face on the lip of the first face) will kick the butt to the ground early or make it jump, depending on what is needed, and reduce breakage. This is esp important in big conifers like redwood.

Actually this is rocket science. It is just that the very complicated basics were developed many years ago and we just copy their good work. Reducing breakage doesn't matter when you are cutting fire wood or just doing a removal. For professional fallers it is their bread and butter. A fire wooding homeowner does not need to make a 200'+ tree jump a ravine but a timber faller does. Heck, for me a quarter of the trees I fall really do not need precise directional control, just get it on the ground safely so I can drink a Red Bull and eat some steaming Brussell sprouts out of my thermos. The rest need to hit the ground in a precise location or my insurance cost will go out of sight. That is where the rocket science comes in. 

Even if you never use anything but a conventional face there are many, many modifications that can be applied here too. Variations in holding wood, Dutchmans, boring, pulling, etc. As Hammer said there are times when your face or backcut may not be placed perfectly flat. You may have to leave little or no holding wood, that is cut through the hinge. Go to Bailey's website and get a couple books on the subject. They will help with your decision making process and maybe make your day more productive.


----------



## tramp bushler (Jan 15, 2010)

Steaming Brussel sprouts ???????? I can see the Red Bull , but brussel sprouts in the timber . Thats decidedly different ! 
.
. Had I read your previous post I wouldn,t of needed to write mine .........


----------



## bitzer (Jan 15, 2010)

2dogs said:


> Pierre the choice between a conventional face and a Humboldt face is not to make a balanced tree fall or to start toward the face. It is what you want the tree to do once it starts to fall. A conventional face will keep the tree attached to the stump via the hinge until it hits the ground. That means good control and a fast falling speed. The downside is likely more breakage. A Humboldt, esp with a snipe (A second face on the lip of the first face) will kick the butt to the ground early or make it jump, depending on what is needed, and reduce breakage. This is esp important in big conifers like redwood.
> 
> Actually this is rocket science. It is just that the very complicated basics were developed many years ago and we just copy their good work. Reducing breakage doesn't matter when you are cutting fire wood or just doing a removal. For professional fallers it is their bread and butter. A fire wooding homeowner does not need to make a 200'+ tree jump a ravine but a timber faller does. Heck, for me a quarter of the trees I fall really do not need precise directional control, just get it on the ground safely so I can drink a Red Bull and eat some steaming Brussell sprouts out of my thermos. The rest need to hit the ground in a precise location or my insurance cost will go out of sight. That is where the rocket science comes in.
> 
> Even if you never use anything but a conventional face there are many, many modifications that can be applied here too. Variations in holding wood, Dutchmans, boring, pulling, etc. As Hammer said there are times when your face or backcut may not be placed perfectly flat. You may have to leave little or no holding wood, that is cut through the hinge. Go to Bailey's website and get a couple books on the subject. They will help with your decision making process and maybe make your day more productive.




Great info for the newb! 




My wife makes brussell sprouts from our garden with bacon. She cuts up the bacon, frys it, pours the grease off, and throws the sprouts in. Frickin awesome! My kids even love em!


----------



## 2dogs (Jan 15, 2010)

tramp bushler said:


> Steaming Brussel sprouts ???????? I can see the Red Bull , but brussel sprouts in the timber . Thats decidedly different !
> .
> . Had I read your previous post I wouldn,t of needed to write mine .........



Tramp I help on a couple of cattle ranches just north of town and one of the ranchers works for a sprout farmer. My family lives on sprouts and lots of other fresh veggies. All for free. Most of the sprouts I bring home are culls that are dumped in one of our pastures for the cattle. They help up milk production in the mamas and the calves love them too. The sprouts of today are not near as strong tasting as back in the seventies when I didn't like them. I served them last night to my daughter's friend. It was her first taste and she liked it. I say "it" because she only ate one but she said she was going to ask her mom to fix some.

We also get a ton of artichokes for free! Also leeks, lettuce, pumpkins and other nummies.

But yeah, I guess sprouts are not your normal timber lunch.


----------



## 2dogs (Jan 15, 2010)

bitzercreek1 said:


> Great info for the newb!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



That is a fav of mine too. We buy apple smoked bacon by the flitch from Corralitos Market and Sausage Company. It is a short drive away.


----------



## elliott (Jan 15, 2010)

Pierreg said:


> The cuts are the same except for the uphill *wedge*.



You should refrain from using the word "wedge" to describe something dealing with the face cut. Especially if you're talking to people who don't know much about cutting; you could make them really confused. This forum has a bunch of guys here that are very knowledgeable and can help you learn correct terminology.


----------



## Industry (Jan 18, 2010)

Anyone got a pic or diagram of a humbolt with a snipe?


----------



## Greystoke (Jan 18, 2010)

Industry said:


> Anyone got a pic or diagram of a humbolt with a snipe?



This is probably the best one I have:


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 18, 2010)

Brussel sprouts is goood, especially with coliflower & carrots & some fried chicken & Texas Pete!!
Or potatoes & steak!!


----------



## bitzer (Jan 18, 2010)

Man you've got some great pics Tarzan!


----------



## belgian (Jan 19, 2010)

bitzercreek1 said:


> Man you've got some great pics Tarzan!



+1 !

good explanation also, but I still have difficulty to understand the purpose of the snipe. Once the tree goes over and the normal face is closed, the hinge will snap quickly. What does the snipe really do ? make the tree jump ?


----------



## bitzer (Jan 19, 2010)

belgian said:


> +1 !
> 
> good explanation also, but I still have difficulty to understand the purpose of the snipe. Once the tree goes over and the normal face is closed, the hinge will snap quickly. What does the snipe really do ? make the tree jump ?



Yep. It will snap the hinge quickly and you can also direct your snipe cut in the direction of a swing to get it jumping more in that direction. It looks a little like he is doing that in the pic. The snipe is pointing a little more to his left. I used one yesterday with a walking dutchman. Dead elm was shaped like a question mark and leaning toward a cherry. Got the butt to walk around the stump and around the cherry to the hole where I wanted it.


----------



## tramp bushler (Jan 19, 2010)

.. Snipes are handy when on steepish ground when you want a little help keeing the top up the hill and the bottom too slip down the hill where the tree will lay more level so it can be limbed and bucked safely and so your timber lays along the hill or draw instead of up and down the hill ...........Cody cut for the helicopters so he didn,t have the luxury of being an Alaskan ( AIR SCALER ) 
..... He had to be able to limb and buck and do a real good job with his wood ....
.
. Bushlin for a yarder , tho any half decent cutter makes sure his bucks will clean off if at all possible , We didn,t need to be as intense on shining up the logs ...Thats why the chaser has a saw on the landing !!!!.
.
.


----------



## isaaccarlson (Jan 19, 2010)

*just listening to you guys talk make me want to go out and drop some timber.....*

KNOCK IT OFF.....LOL


----------



## tramp bushler (Jan 19, 2010)

isaaccarlson said:


> KNOCK IT OFF.....LOL



Thats , ( FALL) some timber !! It,s a west coast thing .......
.
. But really , but really . you don,t want to drop timber , it might break !!!!!! Fall it , that way when it lands on the ground it lays out where you purposly put it ....
.
. I know ,I,m a prik , and don,t get mad , but thats the difference between the 2 areas ... We DROP a tree that has thousands of dollars of saw timber in it and bust it all to ----. and we are down the road with no prospects of future work . If we Fall it ...ie , purposly place it in the best lay we can find for it .. Save it out , maximize the logs in the tree . don,t get hurt , and get ALOT done ...... All we need is our name to get future work ... And we live longer ............. It has to do with the purposeness and safety of gettin em on the ground ...


----------



## isaaccarlson (Jan 19, 2010)

*I HARVEST mostly firewood so if it breaks its not a huge deal*

but I do try to keep it in one piece if possible just to make it easier to cut up. I figure harvest will be more acceptable to you. LOL


----------



## tramp bushler (Jan 19, 2010)

No , it,s cool , but that is the point of falling .... Thats why Fallers arn,t loggers ... We make logs .. we don,t move them ......
. With what I,m doing right now I,m the chief cook and bottle washer so I have to do it all ...
. Just say you are going to fall them ... It will put you in a better mind set ..


----------



## Greystoke (Jan 19, 2010)

tramp bushler said:


> .. Snipes are handy when on steepish ground when you want a little help keeing the top up the hill and the bottom too slip down the hill where the tree will lay more level so it can be limbed and bucked safely and so your timber lays along the hill or draw instead of up and down the hill ...........Cody cut for the helicopters so he didn,t have the luxury of being an Alaskan ( AIR SCALER )
> ..... He had to be able to limb and buck and do a real good job with his wood ....
> .
> . Bushlin for a yarder , tho any half decent cutter makes sure his bucks will clean off if at all possible , We didn,t need to be as intense on shining up the logs ...Thats why the chaser has a saw on the landing !!!!.
> ...



You pretty much nailed er tramp. Although I was Falling for a yarder on that job, they wanted us to limb 3 sides, but the reason I put the snipe on that tree was because it was on a little bluff and I wanted to kick the butt where the snipe was gunned in order to steer it into a little v-notch that was below me, and in effect try to save out the tree a little more. Those Sitka spruce will take some nasty ground but in this unit they were fairly tall, and unfortunately I broke a few 


Here is a good example of one that I broke. I have used a few of these pics in other threads so some of them might be redundant...sorry 

Undercutting:






Timber!!!!:






Although you can't see it in the pic, I had to fall this one across a couple of fairly steep V-notches and she broke, at least closer to the top...I did my best!






I think this is the redundant pic, but it shows one of the v-notches fairly well:






And, although I hate showing broken timber, here are the spoils of that rough ground...buckin out the break...I think the best thing I like about this pic is it shows my Kuliens!











There she is! Hope nobody gets sick of my long posts


----------



## RandyMac (Jan 19, 2010)

Yeah, it's tough Cody, but we will continue to muddle through without yawning. LOL!


----------



## slowp (Jan 19, 2010)

Oh the horrors! The people on the chainsaw forum would be horrified to see one handed sawing. Oh well, your pictures are from the real world. 

How big is the devil's club up thar? I heared it was big enough to saw boards out of. Otherwise, if you put Doug-fir instead of the spruce, it looks like the ground here.

Thanks for digging up those pictures. I'm one of those dense people who have to see things along with the explanation. Maybe I'll use that method in some of the road alder--sometimes they're 3 inches in diameter!


----------



## tramp bushler (Jan 19, 2010)

.. No Cody , I NEVER , EVER !!!! get tired of your pics ...!!!!!!! 
. You held that spruce a little too high on the hill .. I know why you did it and I might have too ... 
. Thats the problem with this Southeast timber . If you hold it up the hill so it is nice to limb and buck , it will break half way up because of the short lays and the sudden stop .. If you run them 10 - 15 degrees below horizontal to the hill you can push the break into the tops , but then you got to crawl down to them and then climb back up when your done buckin ... You pushed the break up the tree a good ways .... If people on here will really look at the entire pic they can begin to see why we are so spastic ,( or at least I am ) ..................And how much hard work it is , just getting to the stump , and to every stump ......Also why it's so important to hit your lay and to have picked a good one ..


----------



## bitzer (Jan 19, 2010)

Those are some badass pics Cody! You guys are in a different league out there. Man that looks like a lotta fun!


----------



## tramp bushler (Jan 19, 2010)

My last post may have read wrong , I,m not 2 nd guessing what Cody did ... But if you run em a little down the hill most of the time the top gets munched ... But with the V notches he had to deal with the lay he picked was still a good one .. I've prolly broke more timber than he has ......


----------



## bitzer (Jan 19, 2010)

tramp bushler said:


> .. If people on here will really look at the entire pic they can begin to see why we are so spastic ,( or at least I am ) ..................And how much hard work it is , just getting to the stump , and to every stump ......Also why it's so important to hit your lay and to have picked a good one ..



I don't have near that kinda ground around here so I can't answer to that, but I agree with how important it is to hit your lay. You can avoid some real PITA situations by thinking it through and doing it right. Over in the saw forum some guy posted pics of a stump he made in his backyard and several of the guys where commenting on "not to let the stump snobs get to him." Theres a reason for what happens with a tree and a stump that tells the story. Something to learn from and think about, how the tree reacted to what you did to it and then using that and being able to manipulate what the next tree does by what you do to it. Applied knowledge. Thats how I learned and still do. Good stuff guys! I'm always learning on here! I don't think you can ever stop learning when it comes to fellin trees.


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 19, 2010)

Thats why it falling timber is so captivating for me. I think that is part of it for most guys. 

Trees are like snow flakes, no two are the same. & when you are working with variety like that, you know you will continue to experience new & different things with every tree for years & years. We need a big timber industry revolution, find out how to make trees grow 10 times faster so we can all do what we love & not have to spend so much time on the computer wishing we where in the kirf of some 250 foot hammer...


----------



## Greystoke (Jan 20, 2010)

slowp said:


> Oh the horrors! The people on the chainsaw forum would be horrified to see one handed sawing. Oh well, your pictures are from the real world.
> 
> How big is the devil's club up thar? I heared it was big enough to saw boards out of. Otherwise, if you put Doug-fir instead of the spruce, it looks like the ground here.
> 
> Thanks for digging up those pictures. I'm one of those dense people who have to see things along with the explanation. Maybe I'll use that method in some of the road alder--sometimes they're 3 inches in diameter!



Biggest, Nastiest Devils club I ever ran across! I hate that stuff!(of course not as bad as poison oak though).


----------



## Greystoke (Jan 20, 2010)

tramp bushler said:


> .. No Cody , I NEVER , EVER !!!! get tired of your pics ...!!!!!!!
> . You held that spruce a little too high on the hill .. I know why you did it and I might have too ...
> . Thats the problem with this Southeast timber . If you hold it up the hill so it is nice to limb and buck , it will break half way up because of the short lays and the sudden stop .. If you run them 10 - 15 degrees below horizontal to the hill you can push the break into the tops , but then you got to crawl down to them and then climb back up when your done buckin ... You pushed the break up the tree a good ways .... If people on here will really look at the entire pic they can begin to see why we are so spastic ,( or at least I am ) ..................And how much hard work it is , just getting to the stump , and to every stump ......Also why it's so important to hit your lay and to have picked a good one ..



No, Actually that is where I wanted to put it. I know what you mean by leading your tops down hill, but in this strip it would not have worked because there were so many of these tall spruce and hemlock up on a rock knob. If you look at the pic of me bucking you will see that that is where that v-notch really starts to get deep, and only got worse farther down the hill, so consequently I would have had a train wreck if I had thrown it any farther down the hill than I did. Also it would have been out of lead with the rest of my strip, so I would have thrown it across some nice logs, and broke them too. That's the bad thing about the pics on here...they don't always show all the ingredients to a situation


----------



## Terry L (Feb 1, 2010)

Everyone is saying that the back cut should be level. That is true most of the time, but if the tree is leaning the back cut should be perpendicular to the tree. Sloping back cuts on a vertical tree are a sign of a beginner, and there is absolutely no advantage to the sloping back cut over doing it right.


----------



## huskyhank (Feb 1, 2010)

tarzanstree said:


> snipped......



OK, I see what you're doin' but how did you survive that? It looks like you're laid out over the log, over the v-notch and about to launch yourself and the log into oblivion. Of course you didn't or you wouldn't be showing us the pictures.

I'm amazed by your posts and pictures. I don't think I'll ever get tired of them, so keep it up!


----------



## Greystoke (Feb 1, 2010)

huskyhank said:


> OK, I see what you're doin' but how did you survive that? It looks like you're laid out over the log, over the v-notch and about to launch yourself and the log into oblivion. Of course you didn't or you wouldn't be showing us the pictures.
> 
> I'm amazed by your posts and pictures. I don't think I'll ever get tired of them, so keep it up!



Thanks man! I was just bucking the far wood, as I was only using a 32" bar, and could not reach through this Sitka Spruce, so as you will see in these next pics I still had most of the wood to buck on the uphill side. If I had not been day-waging I would have had my hopped up 088 with a 54" bar for fallin and buckin the butt logs off of these pickles, but I was not going to run my baby and wear it out day-baggin.

I started out about here, and could not get that farthest downhill wood:











Here is where I laid down so that I could reach that far wood and not fall into the gully and hurt myself:






And this is where I switched positions on my saw so as not to lose my hold and slide off there...This was probably not necessary because I was fairly sure that I had all that far wood bucked, but not 100% sure, so I switched to make sure that there was not a post of wood holding down there, which would have made for an ugly buck:






Here I am walking it back toward the uphill side:











Here goes that cull butt log down into the chute:


----------



## RandyMac (Feb 1, 2010)

Great photo sequence, can tell the story by itself.


----------



## stihl sawing (Feb 1, 2010)

Fantastic pics Tarzantree.<a href="http://www.sweetim.com/s.asp?im=gen&lpver=3&ref=11" target="_blank"><img src="http://cdn.content.sweetim.com/sim/cpie/emoticons/00020165.gif" border="0" title="Click to get more." ></a>


----------

