# What are you building with your milled wood? merged



## stonykill

I am so bad at remembering to take pictures. Here are a few of my current projects. Both are birch that I milled from my land. The table is shown just stained and with one coat of sealer on the top. I'll finish spraying in the morning. The 2nd table picture is right after I sprayed the sealer, so there is a bit of overspray in the pic. The 2nd piece is a tv cabinet I have been building. That one won't be done for a week or so as its no hurry. I'll post pics of both finished after they are done. The table pics should be here saturday. All the birch was milled with a 48cc 031, 24 inch bar, baileys lp chain.

http://picasaweb.google.com/stonykill/PROJECTS


----------



## wdchuck

Hmmm....pics are on the lam.

My first millings, which are silver maple, are going to spend life as barn doors, on one of my outbuildings, and may be put up while still green to keep the critters and wind blown stuff out. I'll get a pic after they're installed


----------



## stonykill

you can't see the pics? they show fine on my end


----------



## wdchuck

I know my dial up is slow, but it ain't that slow, if there's viable pics in a post, then they will show up.


----------



## stonykill

*links to pics*

links for those who can't see pics

http://lh5.google.com/image/stonykill/Rh6f882bOPI/AAAAAAAAAD4/jIY-QRuCfhQ/DSCF0609.JPG?imgmax=512

http://lh3.google.com/image/stonykill/Rh6gDc2bOQI/AAAAAAAAAEA/qmSAWUI6LlA/DSCF0613.JPG?imgmax=512

http://lh3.google.com/image/stonykill/Rh6gYc2bORI/AAAAAAAAAEI/vGhOcSHpuL0/DSCF0610.JPG?imgmax=512


----------



## Sawyer Rob

Sorry man, neither the picts or the links will work here... And i'm looking foreward to seeing them!!

Rob


----------



## stonykill

*if this doesnt work....*

if this doesnt work it'll have to wait till morning...band practice night :rockn: picasa must be down, so I had to resort to little pics. I'll try again in the am

















http://www.stonykillcreations.citymax.com/t//tn_birch_table.JPG

http://www.stonykillcreations.citymax.com/t//tn_birch_table_2.JPG

http://www.stonykillcreations.citymax.com/t//tv_cab_unfinished.jpg


----------



## dustytools

Nice work Stonykill. I especially liked the cabinet.


----------



## Gene DiNardo

*What are you building with your milled wood*

Nice work Stony !
I do primarily Period Style and Reproduction pieces (as an amateur).
I hope to do more commission work when I retire from my day job in about 10 Yrs. I have 32 yrs in but cant get a full pension till I'm 60.
Guess that gives me time to mill, stock pile and season enough stock so I wont have to spend my pension on lumber ha ha.
Here is my most recently completed project.
An interpretation of a Philadelphia style Chippendale High Boy in Black Walnut
featuring Air dried figured walnut Book matched solid doors with applied cock bead, hand carved ball and claw feet, Hand carved and scraped goose-neck molding, the drawers are full slipped with hand-cut dovetails (half lapped front and through back) with a scratched bead. Each drawer has a false bottom with a secrete drawer. The back is Full frame and panel with pinned bridle joints. The hardware is solid brass from Ball and Ball.

I'm currently working on a later Chippendale piece in the Boston Style.
Be happy to post some progress pics and shop shots if anyone is interested.


----------



## lmbeachy

Pics showed fine on my screen. Really nice work, i especially liked the TV cabinet.


----------



## aquan8tor

Now that's the kind of thing I like to see!!!!!!! A good friend of mine is a professional cabinetmaker; That's defnitely to his standards. Nice work!!


----------



## Freakingstang

WOW, that looks awesome!

I have the stock pile of wood, and differant saws, just waiting, waiting, waiting on my mill to show up. It has been on B/o for 4 months now.....


----------



## Semi-Hex

Whoa, that's a really nice piece. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Railomatic

*Musical instruments*

I have been using my own milled woods for making musical instruments, here at Bagpipeworks we made our first Roller-Matic mill about fifteen years ago for harvesting the many native timbers like Holly, Laburnham, plumb etc, that were unavailable over the counter.

I use the timber for the bellows, fittings drone stocks and many more, in the pictures are bellows made from Burr Elm, Laburnham, Walnut, Mountain Ash
fittings from Holly, English Boxwood and stocks from Apple, I use everything that I can get hold of, instead of using the exotics, I stain the holly black to resemble Ebony.

Irish or Uilleann Bagpipes are the instruments I make.


----------



## stonykill

Gene DiNardo said:


> Nice work Stony !
> I do primarily Period Style and Reproduction pieces (as an amateur).
> I hope to do more commission work when I retire from my day job in about 10 Yrs. I have 32 yrs in but cant get a full pension till I'm 60.
> Guess that gives me time to mill, stock pile and season enough stock so I wont have to spend my pension on lumber ha ha.
> Here is my most recently completed project.
> An interpretation of a Philadelphia style Chippendale High Boy in Black Walnut
> featuring Air dried figured walnut Book matched solid doors with applied cock bead, hand carved ball and claw feet, Hand carved and scraped goose-neck molding, the drawers are full slipped with hand-cut dovetails (half lapped front and through back) with a scratched bead. Each drawer has a false bottom with a secrete drawer. The back is Full frame and panel with pinned bridle joints. The hardware is solid brass from Ball and Ball.
> 
> I'm currently working on a later Chippendale piece in the Boston Style.
> Be happy to post some progress pics and shop shots if anyone is interested.



all I can say is ...wow


----------



## stonykill

Railomatic said:


> I have been using my own milled woods for making musical instruments, here at Bagpipeworks we made our first Roller-Matic mill about fifteen years ago for harvesting the many native timbers like Holly, Laburnham, plumb etc, that were unavailable over the counter.
> 
> I use the timber for the bellows, fittings drone stocks and many more, in the pictures are bellows made from Burr Elm, Laburnham, Walnut, Mountain Ash
> fittings from Holly, English Boxwood and stocks from Apple, I use everything that I can get hold of, instead of using the exotics, I stain the holly black to resemble Ebony.
> 
> Irish or Uilleann Bagpipes are the instruments I make.



very cool rail. I play guitar and have built myself several electrics. I now need to build one out of wood I milled


----------



## stonykill

*uhmmm, my pics are gone!!??!!*

for some reason my pics disappeared. So are the 1st 4 or so posts....here are a few pics again





















The 1st 2 photos are of a birch table I will finish spraying today. The 1st pic has just stain, the 2nd has a coat of sealer, over spray still in the air. The cabinet is a tv cabinet of birch. Also milled from my land with a 48 cc 031 and an alaskan. The bottom photo is a pine milkpainted corner cabinet. The tables and the corner cabinet are in the style I prefer. I like rustic country.


----------



## martrix

Here is a workbench I made. The only timber I milled myself was all of the Redgum in the legs and vice jaw. 

Here is a hilarious video of me milling it with an electric chainsaw.....that broke after cutting 5 boards.:bang:

I have got myself a 076 to do the milling now once I have finished rebuilding it here.


----------



## wdchuck

Yep, some posts seem on the lam...

All of the work posted is great, bunch of Norm's hanging around here, 

DiNardo, more pics of your shop and work are welcome to be sure.

Is everyones wood just air-dried or have you kiln dried some of it as well?


----------



## stonykill

mine is airdried, then put in a hot box, not really a kiln, but a big box with forced hot air from the outdoor wood boiler pumping in it. I just finished spraying the birch top table, I'll finish assembly tomorrow morning and try to get some good pics.


----------



## Ianab

Nothing fancy.. just a cot for new daughter born last month..  

Bluegum eucalyptus, hard and heavy ( a bit above white oak ). Pretty much escape proof 







Cheers

Ian


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

Great work all the way around, fellers!

Here's a workbench I made from timber I milled and resawn recycled dunnage.

I still need to face the drawers but that got bumped down the list.


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

martrix said:


> Here is a workbench I made. The only timber I milled myself was all of the Redgum in the legs and vice jaw.
> 
> Here is a hilarious video of me milling it with an electric chainsaw.....that broke after cutting 5 boards.:bang:
> 
> I have got myself a 076 to do the milling now once I have finished rebuilding it here.



  

Cool vid!


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

stonykill said:


> links for those who can't see pics
> 
> http://lh5.google.com/image/stonykill/Rh6f882bOPI/AAAAAAAAAD4/jIY-QRuCfhQ/DSCF0609.JPG?imgmax=512
> 
> http://lh3.google.com/image/stonykill/Rh6gDc2bOQI/AAAAAAAAAEA/qmSAWUI6LlA/DSCF0613.JPG?imgmax=512
> 
> http://lh3.google.com/image/stonykill/Rh6gYc2bORI/AAAAAAAAAEI/vGhOcSHpuL0/DSCF0610.JPG?imgmax=512



Clicked on the links... says they are FORBIDDEN!:jawdrop: Just what are they pictures of, Stony?


----------



## stonykill

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Clicked on the links... says they are FORBIDDEN!:jawdrop: Just what are they pictures of, Stony?



 , they were links to pictures on my website. Maybe the higher powers thought I was trying to sell something, not sure really. It is just furniture pics, commissioned work, not trying to sell anything . I suppose its cause it was my website. Hopefully you can see the tiny pics I posted after that.


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

stonykill said:


> , they were links to pictures on my website. Maybe the higher powers thought I was trying to sell something, not sure really. It is just furniture pics, commissioned work, not trying to sell anything . I suppose its cause it was my website. Hopefully you can see the tiny pics I posted after that.



Suuurrre they are, Stony.

I zoomed in on the tiny pics. Nice work!


----------



## aquan8tor

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Great work all the way around, fellers!
> 
> Here's a workbench I made from timber I milled and resawn recycled dunnage.
> 
> I still need to face the drawers but that got bumped down the list.





I'm feeling dumb. What is dunnage?? I know what a dunny is, but not dunnage?? Must be a texas thing?...


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

aquan8tor said:


> I'm feeling dumb. What is dunnage?? I know what a dunny is, but not dunnage?? Must be a texas thing?...



Just a term for rough timbers used for shipping and stacking bulk materials such as structural steel, rebar, etc. Basically it's pallet wood.


----------



## stonykill

not sure what dunnage is. What I can't figure out is why a 2nd thread with the same name as the one I started was created? Gets a little confusing  :monkey:


----------



## stonykill

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Suuurrre they are, Stony.
> 
> I zoomed in on the tiny pics. Nice work!




thanks. I finished spraying the table, well actually its a desk, a little while ago. I'll try to get some good pics of it with the distressed milkpaint base, and that gorgeous birch top.


----------



## urbanlumberinc

I posted some of these in a different thread, but here's pictures of some projects I've made recently.


----------



## dustytools

urbanlumberinc said:


> I posted some of these in a different thread, but here's pictures of some projects I've made recently.



Nice work!


----------



## English Oak

Railomatic said:


> I use the timber for the bellows, fittings drone stocks and many more, in the pictures are bellows made from Burr Elm, Laburnham, Walnut, Mountain Ash
> fittings from Holly, English Boxwood and stocks from Apple,
> .



When you say Mountian ash do you mean Rowan? I only ask becuase I've been offered lots of it before and didn't think it was useful. how does it work if so? 

Nice pictures everyone by the way, its good to see that people use some of the stuff they mill.
T


----------



## Railomatic

English Oak said:


> When you say Mountian ash do you mean Rowan? I only ask becuase I've been offered lots of it before and didn't think it was useful. how does it work if so?



Yes its what is also called Rowan, it has the most wonderful creamy colour and nice wide grain pattern, I would use lots more of it if it was available in wider boards.


----------



## aquan8tor

urbanlumberinc said:


> I posted some of these in a different thread, but here's pictures of some projects I've made recently.



I especially like the first coffee table. Cherry? Very nice. I like nakashima pieces. A friend promised to help me with the hourglass routered inlay pieces. A couple are going to need it!


----------



## stonykill

urbanlumberinc said:


> I posted some of these in a different thread, but here's pictures of some projects I've made recently.



Very cool. Nakashima is one of the few modern designers that I like. Very tastefull pieces. If you were on this side of the country, a friend of mine would buy every piece you make for his modern furniture store. Nice work!


----------



## woodshop

As was said before many times by me and others here... there is a LOT of talent on this forum. From furniture to fine musical instruments. But then that makes sense, as most of us are not the couch potatoe type, or we wouldn't be out in the woods milling lumber in the first place. Like Gene Dinardo, I can't retire from my day job for another 7 years, so my woodshop business is a sidekick for now. It just makes me enough money to buy more toys for the shop at this point. (ShopBot CNC router is in my sights although a bit hard to see being so far away at this point). Almost every finished piece that comes from my woodshop started from wood I milled with my csm and Ripsaw over the years.

Here are just a few of the things I sell at shows, mostly small gift type items, but I have moved into some small traditional furniture like the Shaker side table first pic.


----------



## stonykill

*no job to retire from*

nice woodshop, Unlike you and many others, this is my job. It started as a side job, and became my only job. There is no job to retire from. My grandfather always told me I could make a living from the small workshop he left me when I bought his house. After working for a few real bad bosses, thats a few other storys, I quit . Had enough. I just wasn't built to work for anyone. So here I am. I'll have a few more pics in a few hours.


----------



## woodshop

stonykill said:


> nice woodshop, Unlike you and many others, this is my job. It started as a side job, and became my only job. There is no job to retire from. My grandfather always told me I could make a living from the small workshop he left me when I bought his house. After working for a few real bad bosses, thats a few other storys, I quit . Had enough. I just wasn't built to work for anyone. So here I am. I'll have a few more pics in a few hours.



Think of it this way Stony... you are a good 15 years ahead of me (us) having your own woodshop business full time already. I can't concentrate on this fully till I'm 60. No fun going to work every day when you'd rather be in your woodshop.


----------



## stonykill

woodshop said:


> Think of it this way Stony... you are a good 15 years ahead of me (us) having your own woodshop business full time already. I can't concentrate on this fully till I'm 60. No fun going to work every day when you'd rather be in your woodshop.



part of my decision making process was my mentor in all this, my grandfather. After he retired he worked full time finally in his shop. After 5 years of living his dream, he could no longer for health reasons live in upstate NY and had to move to fla. He died a few years later. That helped me decide to make the move young. At 35 I was working for myself. By the time I was 38 the business was full bore. I'll be 40 this year and fully enjoy everyday of my life.


----------



## dustytools

Here are some pictures of the last rocking chair that I made. I didnt mill the lumber used to make it, but I now have plenty of MY own milled lumber in the sticker stack that will soon be turned into these rockers and various other stuff. These were posted before but I just wanted to re-post them for some of those that might not have seen them.View attachment 49059


View attachment 49060


View attachment 49061


View attachment 49062


View attachment 49063


----------



## stonykill

*birch desk*

all from wood milled on my land. Pine legs and aprons, to keep cost down, per buyers request. Yellow birch top. All milled with a stihl 031. Milkpaint base, lightly distressed. Catalized laquer topcoat on all.


----------



## stonykill

*a few more*


----------



## dustytools

stonykill said:


> all from wood milled on my land. Pine legs and aprons, to keep cost down, per buyers request. Yellow birch top. All milled with a stihl 031. Milkpaint base, lightly distressed. Catalized laquer topcoat on all.



Nice piece stonykill! I love all of the woodworking pictures that have been posted in here lately. A lot of talent here indeed!


----------



## stonykill

*yet a few more*
















I didn't mill this one


----------



## woodshop

Nice little rocker dusty, did you cane that yourself too? If you did, curious how long it took you to do (cane the seat). Thought about maybe adding a little rocker like that to go with a small antique childs chair I make, but thought a cane seat would make it too time intensive. In a small non-production shop like mine, there are some labor intensive things you just can't get your money out of if selling the piece. Doing so would price it out of all but high end niche markets or maybe a juried show.


----------



## stonykill

nice rocker dusty. I occasionally do rush seats. Easy, but labor intense. I never tried caning, other than press cane. Thats the easy way to do it.


----------



## dustytools

woodshop said:


> Nice little rocker dusty, did you cane that yourself too? If you did, curious how long it took you to do (cane the seat). Thought about maybe adding a little rocker like that to go with a small antique childs chair I make, but thought a cane seat would make it too time intensive. In a small non-production shop like mine, there are some labor intensive things you just can't get your money out of if selling the piece. Doing so would price it out of all but high end niche markets or maybe a juried show.



Thanks Woodshop, Yes I did the seat too. It is weaved with 1/4 inch half oval reed in a herringbone pattern. This is only my second herringbone weave so Im still slow at it. A standard basket weave with 1/4 material I could do in 4-5 hrs without breaks. I really love to turn wood but I think that the seats in these chairs are what I am most proud of. Unfortunately this is the only one that I managed to get pictures of.


----------



## dustytools

BTW Woodshop, I would like to see a pic or two of your child-size chair if you have any. Im always looking for ideas and this site has given me many. Thanks to everyone for all of the cool pictures! P.S. Have you tried your hand at the oven rack tool yet Woodshop?


----------



## dustytools

stonykill said:


> nice rocker dusty. I occasionally do rush seats. Easy, but labor intense. I never tried caning, other than press cane. Thats the easy way to do it.



Thank you. I have an antique chair that was a potty-chair that was used by my great-great grandmother. Several years after her death my grandfather took off the potty attachment piece and used a piece of the pre-weaved cane to cover the hole in the seat. My mother gave me the seat a few years back. The caning was destroyed and it seems like the press in edging is glued in. Gonna try to fix it when time permits if I can figure out a way to get the old out without destroying the wood. Any ideas?


----------



## stonykill

dustytools said:


> Thank you. I have an antique chair that was a potty-chair that was used by my great-great grandmother. Several years after her death my grandfather took off the potty attachment piece and used a piece of the pre-weaved cane to cover the hole in the seat. My mother gave me the seat a few years back. The caning was destroyed and it seems like the press in edging is glued in. Gonna try to fix it when time permits if I can figure out a way to get the old out without destroying the wood. Any ideas?



If the binding was glued in correctly, it was only glued on the bottom. In which case just custom grind a screwdriver to the appropriate edge, and tap and pry. It will pop right out. If the entire binding was glued in, its a little trickier. You 1st need to take a sheetrock knife and gently cut all around the edges of the binding, to cut any glue. The use the above stated technique. Go SLOW, as its real easy to pull wood you don't want too if the binding wasn't orriginally glued in right. 

I worked in a refinishing shop for a # of years and did many of these. Its a pita if it was glued in poorly. Good luck and take your time  :rockn:


----------



## dustytools

Ill give it a shot and see what happens. Ill try to post some pictures of this old chair in the near future. Thanks for the help.


----------



## stonykill

no problem. I have done all kinds of things with old potty chairs. Even make one into a rocker for a customer as a joke on his brother. We put one on the side of a building I used to work at, and put santa on it at xmas time.


----------



## woodshop

dustytools said:


> BTW Woodshop, I would like to see a pic or two of your child-size chair if you have any. Im always looking for ideas and this site has given me many. Thanks to everyone for all of the cool pictures! P.S. Have you tried your hand at the oven rack tool yet Woodshop?



Alas Dusty, no I have not gotten around to adding the oven rack tool to my (very) slowly growing list of items. Thanks for reminding me though, because I need a few small lower cost "couple dollar" items like that to go along with some of my higher priced stuff especially at "low end" shows where that kind of thing sells better. I saw a plan to make a simple pair of toaster tongs (to get bagels and smaller toast out of the toaster) that I think would fit that niche also. I am still in the process of making that antique childs chair I mentioned. Will post pics of it on this forum when completed. That will be weeks down the road though at least. It is early American, and would go well in a living room setting next to a fireplace. 

To many things to do in my shop, not enough time to do them at this point.


----------



## BobL

All the stuff in the composite photo was made by me during 2006. The wooden bits were made from logs from my woodpile or small logs scavenged from kerbside garbage, and the odd small log collected from an arborist aquaintance. I even planted one of the gum trees 27 years ago at home and had it cut down, then I milled into into usable bits. Most of the logs were "Hacked" using a 16" bar chainsaw into pieces small enough to put through my 12" table saw and turned into what you see. Yep - I did most of the metal work as well. I hope you like them. With my new mill and CS I hope I can get onto some "bigger" projects.
Cheers


----------



## woodshop

You're pretty handy Bobl from Perth. Just goes to show that you can get some very nice pieces of wood from scraps, cuttoffs and logging debris left behind. You don't need to mill 36 inch dia logs to get lumber. Curious how you make your threaded wooden rod for those wooden clamps for example. Do you by any chance use a Bealle wood threader as I do?


----------



## RIX

All I can say is WOW to all of you who posted here. I have always loved wood working but have never takend the jump to spend the money or time to do it. Someday I hope. Anyway nice work everyone, keep on postin.


----------



## stonykill

nice work bobl


----------



## BobL

woodshop said:


> Curious how you make your threaded wooden rod for those wooden clamps for example. Do you by any chance use a Bealle wood threader as I do?



Thanks Woodshop, for thread cutting I use a tiawanese tool. One of these. So far I have probably cut 20 ft of thread without a problem.


----------



## Sawyer Rob

Here's a hutch i built from an blk. oak i harvested from my woodlot...

The top is "solid" and "quartersawn", and the drawers are dovetailed with book matched fiddle back fronts... The raised panels are also solid and quartersawn...

Sorry, i don't have a better pict. at this time...

Rob


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

Great pics guys! Keep 'em coming!

I keep forgeting to get pics of my other computer.:bang: I'll get some up soon.


----------



## BobL

Sawyer Rob said:


> Here's a hutch i built from an blk.



Nice work Rob! That timber looks gorgeous.
Bob


----------



## woodshop

Sawyer Rob said:


> Here's a hutch i built from an blk. oak i harvested from my woodlot...
> 
> The top is "solid" and "quartersawn", and the drawers are dovetailed with book matched fiddle back fronts... The raised panels are also solid and quartersawn...
> 
> Sorry, i don't have a better pict. at this time...
> 
> Rob



Beautiful hutch Sawyer Rob. Oak just can't be beat for some things. I love how you took the time to match the grain.


----------



## dustytools

Very nice piece Rob.


----------



## stonykill

*I hooked another on milling!!*



Sawyer Rob said:


> Here's a hutch i built from an blk. oak i harvested from my woodlot...
> 
> The top is "solid" and "quartersawn", and the drawers are dovetailed with book matched fiddle back fronts... The raised panels are also solid and quartersawn...
> 
> Sorry, i don't have a better pict. at this time...
> 
> Rob




nice work Rob. My customer who ordered the birch top desk I have pictured picked it up yesterday. He loved it. We got talking, for over an hour. He wanted to see milled boards not yet planed. I showed him some. Then he wanted to see my mills. It turns out he is a hobby woodworker. Before he left he said " Thats it, I'm hooked on milling" . I gave him a lot of info to google, including this site. Looks like I put the fever in a potential :newbie: .:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

stonykill said:


> nice work Rob. My customer who ordered the birch top desk I have pictured picked it up yesterday. He loved it. We got talking, for over an hour. He wanted to see milled boards not yet planed. I showed him some. Then he wanted to see my mills. It turns out he is a hobby woodworker. Before he left he said " Thats it, I'm hooked on milling" . I gave him a lot of info to google, including this site. Looks like I put the fever in a potential :newbie: .:hmm3grin2orange:




That gives a new meaning to "spreadin' it around". :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## Sawyer Rob

Thanks guys, i've built a lot of futniture and cabinets over the years, but i didn't keep much of anything for myself...

Rob


----------



## stonykill

*finished tv cabinet*

here are a few pics of the tv cabinet finished. Its birch, custom mixed stain to match existing furnishings, 3 coats of dull catalized lacquer. To reiterate, its built from a birch tree I knocked down on my land. All of that birch tree was milled with a 48cc stihl 031. I just measured the stump from that tree, it was 22 inches in diameter. 











thanks to all who posted pics, and keep them coming!!!!!

opcorn:


----------



## woodshop

Nice TV cabinet... does it have those pricey pocket doors that slide back into the cabinet or didn't they want to go that route.


----------



## stonykill

woodshop said:


> Nice TV cabinet... does it have those pricey pocket doors that slide back into the cabinet or didn't they want to go that route.



thanks. We discussed that as an option however they would have made the cabinet deeper than the space allowed. These fold back over each other, to either side of the cabinet. For the space this is going in, the depth was the biggest concern, width wasn't as important.


----------



## dustytools

Nice looking piece Stonykill!!!!


----------



## stonykill

thanks, birch probably my favorite wood to work with.


----------



## woodshop

Nobody has been busy in their woodshops since April when Stony finished his TV cabinet???

My latest addition below to items I make and sell at a few local shows from the lumber you see me milling in past posts. I found this relatively simple design and modified it. The original had the same goose neck but much larger board area below it. Mostly for the purposes of economy of scale, I downsized the board area a little to make it slightly easier to produce, use a little less lumber and thus bring the cost down. In my experience, I will sell more of them this way. I still have plans to make the full sized one, but that is on the back burner for now. I spent a good two weeks designing and building the six jigs to make these. I start with a 7/8 thick S4S piece exactly 7 3/4 x 13 1/2 and go from there. Believe it or not, the most complicated jig is the one used to rout that small separation line between the body and the head of the goose. It was the most difficult and took the most time to design, but it is critical that the line be routed dead on exact or the whole board becomes a piece of firewood. For those interested, I included a pic of that separation line jig. If I make a run of at least 10 at a time, I can get production down to about 35 minutes per. That's soup to nuts though, from stickered dry boards from the Ripsaw to finished sanded goose board rubbed with walnut or sunflower oil. I will sell them for $17.


----------



## dustytools

Nice job Woodshop! Work hasnt permitted me to do anything in the shop at all this year. Ive been driving back and forth to Louisville since the last part of August 06. Thats 216 miles a day commute on top of a 9-10 hr. work day. Hopefully when things slow down a bit Ill be out there making a little dust again. Thanks for the pic.:greenchainsaw:


----------



## stonykill

*been sooo busy*

nice job woodshop. Summer is my busiest time of year, pretty insane at times. Between the normal summer stuff, garden, yard, my business,Clearing a section of land for a new workshop, not much time to post pics. I have some hemlock and pine ready to mill for the new building, but haven't started the milling yet. I have mainly been milling antique heart pine, resawing thick boards and beams. No time to post pics tonite, huge t storm heading this way now. I'll post a few pics soon.


----------



## redprospector

Here are a few pic's of what I've been doing with what I've milled. It's not as exquisite as what you guy's are doing, but it'll work.

Andy


----------



## woodshop

redprospector said:


> Here are a few pic's of what I've been doing with what I've milled. It's not as exquisite as what you guy's are doing, but it'll work.
> 
> Andy



Exquisite is not the right word... that kind of work has its own finesse. I've done it, and in many ways it's a lot harder than making a fine piece of furniture in a woodshop. Nice job so far, it looks like you've done this before. Either that or you are good at reading books and gleaning the right information from them.


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

No real wood projects myself, unfortunately. Between work and remodeling the house, time is in severe shortage. I've had the bug to put it all down for a day and get some milling in but today was our first rainless day in weeks. If it holds I might get a "fix" around the end of the week.


----------



## aquan8tor

Railomatic said:


> I have been using my own milled woods for making musical instruments, here at Bagpipeworks we made our first Roller-Matic mill about fifteen years ago for harvesting the many native timbers like Holly, Laburnham, plumb etc, that were unavailable over the counter.
> 
> I use the timber for the bellows, fittings drone stocks and many more, in the pictures are bellows made from Burr Elm, Laburnham, Walnut, Mountain Ash
> fittings from Holly, English Boxwood and stocks from Apple, I use everything that I can get hold of, instead of using the exotics, I stain the holly black to resemble Ebony.
> 
> Irish or Uilleann Bagpipes are the instruments I make.






Rail, I just noticed your post hiding back in april....I'm a musician as well; I'm actually a sax player; baritone and tenor. My musical interests vary wildly, and in the last several years have included what we call "old time" on this side of the pond, which loosely is the ancestor-roots of traditional appalachian music, err traditional scottish, welsh, and irish music that was transplanted to the mountains of the eastern US. I got to play with an Uilleann piper a month or so ago. WOW!!!!! And I thought a sax was a complicated instrument. Not only do you have to pump the bellows and maintain pressure on the bag, you have to use both sets of fingers, and the heel of your hand to work (sorry if I'm using improper terminology here, I don't know the specifics) the "drone" keys. Very impressive instrument, and a truly ethereal tone that is unmistakable. I also saw an american singer, Bonnie Rideout, with an incredible scottish Uilleann piper with her. I was transfixed, to say the least. My hat is off to you, sir. Instrument craftsmen are a dying breed.


----------



## redprospector

woodshop said:


> Exquisite is not the right word... that kind of work has its own finesse. I've done it, and in many ways it's a lot harder than making a fine piece of furniture in a woodshop. Nice job so far, it looks like you've done this before. Either that or you are good at reading books and gleaning the right information from them.



I've done this kind of thing a time or two. I grew up in a wood shop too, my Dad had a little shop (10,000 sq. ft.)in the Dallas area and supplied a major distributer with wood work. I had a little shop in NM in the 90's but sold it. I haven't done much woodwork since, but I'm getting the itch again. I have to get me a new shop built.

Andy


----------



## aquan8tor

*present for my lady*

Here's a couple pics of a present for my girlfriend; she started playing mandolin & remarked longingly on a music stand we saw for sale recently. This one is nicer. Go easy on me; this is my first real woodworking project; i.e. from roughmilled wood to finished product, and the first project with wood I've milled myself. Its hard to tell in the pic, but the sapwood on the base pedestal is also curly. I chose the most highly figured pieces from a black walnut I milled last summer for this piece. Its finished with a boiled linseed oil finish, and covered with a couple coats of paste wax for shine. I can see in the pics where I have a buildup of dust around one of the feet that I need to blow off before giving it to her.


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

Good job!


----------



## woodshop

Very nice... hope she appreciates the labor of love that obviously went into it. I can see the figure in that walnut, shows off nice. I found that people that have no idea what figure is, see it and like it and recognise it as something special. The icing on the cake is that you can tell people that you did it from scratch, INCLUDING making the lumber that went into it. Relatively few woodworkers can make that claim these days.


----------



## Adkpk

I know what a figure is. 
Nice piece, Agua. 
Nice figure.


----------



## Treetom

*Excellent work on this post*

Here's a peice I made for my dad last X-mas. Plenty of room for medications, magazines, remotes, dishes, Kleenex, etc. Constructed from boards that came from an 80 ft, 30" diameter spruce, no knots until about 25ft up the trunk. Knotty wood for the table top, just for character.


----------



## woodshop

Treetom said:


> Here's a piece I made for my dad last X-mas. Plenty of room for medications, magazines, remotes, dishes, Kleenex, etc. Constructed from boards that came from an 80 ft, 30" diameter spruce, no knots until about 25ft up the trunk. Knotty wood for the table top, just for character.



Very nice treetom, tell us a little more about that table top raising apparatus. Where did you get it, and about what did it cost? What was the height of your piece before top is raised, and what is height after raising. Did you use poplar for the drawer bottoms and sides?


----------



## RIX

Treetom said:


> Here's a peice I made for my dad last X-mas. Plenty of room for medications, magazines, remotes, dishes, Kleenex, etc. Constructed from boards that came from an 80 ft, 30" diameter spruce, no knots until about 25ft up the trunk. Knotty wood for the table top, just for character.



That is very nice, its amazing what you guys can do from scratch, it seems I have trouble assmebling the cheap desks you buy from wal mart  I guess I just haven't put any time into it. Nice work all!!


----------



## Sawyer Rob

You guys are doing some nice work there!! Thanks for the pictures!

I figured i'd post a pict of one of the clocks i built. I've built quite a few of them over the years, and this one is out of cherry.

I got the log from a friend (100 miles away) who hired a guy to saw down some tree's in his yard. The guy was sawing them up for firewood. Then there was a dispute over the money, and the guy that cut them down, refused to remove the cherry... I never knew any of the story untill some time later when his sister mentioned it to me...

Anyway, i drove there with my pu and cainsaw, and sawed the log out and winched it into my pu, and brought it home!

Rob


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

Treetom said:


> Here's a peice I made for my dad last X-mas. Plenty of room for medications, magazines, remotes, dishes, Kleenex, etc. Constructed from boards that came from an 80 ft, 30" diameter spruce, no knots until about 25ft up the trunk. Knotty wood for the table top, just for character.



Very nice! Great use of the top lift hardware. The only thing I've seen that used for is coffee tables.


----------



## Treetom

Thanks for your comments. The table top is 27" x48". 19" tall when the mechanism is folded, unfolded = 26". The table top also comes forward 16" from the edge of the table in the unfolded position. It can be loaded down with books, beverages and other heavy objects and is still stable. The drawers are made from 1/2" birch plywood, as I recall. Currently the Pop Up Table Mechanism is $135.00 at Rockler Woodworking and Hardware:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2318&filter=convertible table hardware


----------



## flht01

*millshed from stormdamaged trees*

I've really enjoyed reading this thread and have a little to add in an effort to keep it going.

I decided I needed a place to store the mill when it's not being used and a place to stack a little wood to air dry. All the wood used was cut from storm damaged pines a couple of years ago (Hurricane Rita). I had the posts creosote treated, the rest was air dried. Some was cut with a csm/ripsaw but most was with the little Logmaster mill.






I'm not planning on using it to saw under but did leave a 16' opening on one side (just in case). Mostly I just glad to have a roof up, those august temp's were almost too much to handle.

Next, milling board-n-bat to trim it out with and a few 2x's for bracing.

More to come...


----------



## OZDOG

very nice  i want one two!!


----------



## woodshop

Nice work flht01... couple questions... ('cause I might be doing something similar soon)... what is your roof made of? Is that plastic composite maybe to let light in? Also, how far down into the soil are those posts, and what kind of soil is it there. Sandy or clay or just a good mix of dirt/rocks? Also curious how much did it cost to have them creosoted down there in Texas?

thanks
Dave


----------



## dustytools

Very nice shed! I hope to build my barn in the coming spring. Im gonna build a shed off to one side for lumber storage. I just posted in another thread some pictures of a small shed for drying lumber that I will convert into something else when I get the barn done. Nice job.


----------



## flht01

Thanks to all for the compliments.



woodshop said:


> Nice work flht01... couple questions... ('cause I might be doing something similar soon)... what is your roof made of?



I spaced the framing on 4 ft centers and used 2x4's for lathing to help with the spans. For the roofing I used 26 ga R Panel Galvalume, also to help with the spans. I've been all over the roof and didn't notice any problems with dents or saging.



woodshop said:


> Is that plastic composite maybe to let light in?



My original thoughts was to leave the gap between the center run and the two sides to help let more light in. If blowing rain doesn't present a problem I'll probably leave it this way, I don't have any plans to run electricity (yet). So far, several rainstorms and everything stays as dry as can be expected with an open barn. I'd probably drop the roofline a little if I had it to do over, the center run has about 14 ft headroom and the two side has about 9 ft.



woodshop said:


> Also, how far down into the soil are those posts, and what kind of soil is it there. Sandy or clay or just a good mix of dirt/rocks?



The first foot or so is sandy, then turns to red clay. The posts are about 30 inches deep. I poured a small pad of concrete in the bottom of each hole and let it dry. I set the posts on top of the concrete pads and used concrete to fill the majority of the hole in an effort to keep as much moisture off the post as possible.



woodshop said:


> Also curious how much did it cost to have them creosoted down there in Texas?
> 
> thanks
> Dave



Creosote treating was $400 per thousand board feet. Total cost for the barn poles was $210 and I had several leftover. Using 26 gage on the roofing was probably a little overkill, but baring any more hurricanes I shouldn't have to replace it anytime soon. Total investment so far is about $1,400 for 35 ft (each way) under roof. Most of the costs was roofing material.


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

Awesome!


----------



## Stihl-in-Ky

Great Job!


----------



## Haywire Haywood

I'm not much of a woodworker but this is a bluebird box I made last year from some cedar that my grandfather-in-law milled before he died. I made one for the MIL too. I have some cedar stain to put on it to bring back some of the color that the sun bleached out of it this summer. I'll clean it out this winter and seal it with something like Thompson's after I stain it. --Ian


----------



## woodshop

flht01 said:


> .......Creosote treating was $400 per thousand board feet. Total cost for the barn poles was $210 and I had several leftover. Using 26 gage on the roofing was probably a little overkill, but baring any more hurricanes I shouldn't have to replace it anytime soon. Total investment so far is about $1,400 for 35 ft (each way) under roof. Most of the costs was roofing material.



THANKS for all the details. I am thinking of a pole barn on my Dad's property to store my milled wood, something similar to yours, but sided with T-111 or something similar. I know for a fact I can't get creosote treatment that cheap around here. Yes I have been told that the roofing materials will be my biggest expense.


----------



## woodshop

Haywire Haywood said:


> I'm not much of a woodworker but this is a bluebird box I made last year from some cedar that my grandfather-in-law milled before he died.



...any bluebirds nest in it?


----------



## Haywire Haywood

Last year yes, this year we had swallows.

Ian


----------



## Haywire Haywood

woodshop said:


> I know for a fact I can't get creosote treatment that cheap around here.



How about painting your posts with roofing tar before putting them in the ground? That should seal them up nicely.

Ian


----------



## woodshop

Haywire Haywood said:


> How about painting your posts with roofing tar before putting them in the ground? That should seal them up nicely.
> 
> Ian



Thanks but unfortunately any outside coating, even roofing tar, won't do much to keep water and rot out of the wood as eventually water will find its way in. It has to be something that will penetrate the wood fibers and stay in the wood.


----------



## timberwolf

*Mountain Dulcimer*

I had some well seasoned maple, butternut and cherry, all quarter sawn that I milled up with CSM a few years ago so I set to building a mountain dulcimer.

Never built an instrument before so it was a good learning project. Every bit of wood came from the farm cut up with a CSM. Milled up the bridges out of brass, did buy the fret wire and tuning gears though.

pic 1 is a slab of maple I started with
pic 2 is the back bookmatched and jointed together
pic 3 is the back and sides
pic 4 is the inside
pic 5 is the dulcimer put together, still needs a couple more coats of finish

Fun Project, sounds far better than I expected for a first crack at instrument building.


----------



## woodshop

timberwolf said:


> I had some well seasoned maple, butternut and cherry, all quarter sawn that I milled up with CSM a few years ago so I set to building a mountain dulcimer.
> 
> Never built an instrument before so it was a good learning project. Every bit of wood came from the farm cut up with a CSM. Milled up the bridges out of brass, did buy the fret wire and tuning gears though.
> 
> pic 1 is a slab of maple I started with
> pic 2 is the back bookmatched and jointed together
> pic 3 is the back and sides
> pic 4 is the inside
> pic 5 is the dulcimer put together, still needs a couple more coats of finish
> 
> Fun Project, sounds far better than I expected for a first crack at instrument building.



Very nice dulcimer Timberwolf... for some reason didn't see this post before. Do you play? I built myself a hammer dulcimer years ago and used to play in a small group most of whom had mountain dulcimers like yours.


----------



## Adkpk

Nice work Timber. I treked in Nepal once, actually a few times but one time I met a kid on the trail selling dulcimers. Not as nice as yours but it had a great a great homegrown sound. I don't know where it wound up but maybe after seeing you do one I'll try one myself. Really looks nice.


----------



## spencerhenry

i am working on a very large project. this building is approximately 25,000 square feet. it used to be a lodge, now it is being converted into a residence. the entire roof was removed, along with all interior walls and floors. i am using my lt40 super to mill everthing on site. out of the removed logs from the roof and interior, i am milling 3x random width for interior "siding", 8x for dovetail timber exterior siding, and slab log for siding to cover framed walls. i have only milled the 3x so far, and have milled over 13,000 bf. by the time it is all said and done i will probably have milled over 25,000 bf in square material and turned another 20,000 bf of logs into slab log siding. i havent been on the job for about 2 weeks, but the last day i was there there was alot of machinery.
2 articulated off-road dump trucks, 6 excavators, 1 long boom excavator, 2 cranes, 1 dozer, 2 950 loaders, 2 telehandler forklifts, 1 rock crusher (grinding removed concrete), 1 wood shredder (mulching all removed wood), 2 mini-excavators, 2 skidsteers, and my woodmizer.


----------



## timberwolf

On the Dulcimer, I am not much of a player, but am picking up a few things on it. Thinking of starting an 8 string baritone ukulele, tuning is like the upper 4 strings of a guitar doubled up so a little more familiar to me. Though most of the wood for this one someone else will have milled. Going to work with some lacewood, paduk and purple heart.


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

spencerhenry said:


> i am working on a very large project. this building is approximately 25,000 square feet. it used to be a lodge, now it is being converted into a residence. the entire roof was removed, along with all interior walls and floors. i am using my lt40 super to mill everthing on site. out of the removed logs from the roof and interior, i am milling 3x random width for interior "siding", 8x for dovetail timber exterior siding, and slab log for siding to cover framed walls. i have only milled the 3x so far, and have milled over 13,000 bf. by the time it is all said and done i will probably have milled over 25,000 bf in square material and turned another 20,000 bf of logs into slab log siding. i havent been on the job for about 2 weeks, but the last day i was there there was alot of machinery.
> 2 articulated off-road dump trucks, 6 excavators, 1 long boom excavator, 2 cranes, 1 dozer, 2 950 loaders, 2 telehandler forklifts, 1 rock crusher (grinding removed concrete), 1 wood shredder (mulching all removed wood), 2 mini-excavators, 2 skidsteers, and my woodmizer.




Cool project. Why was the roof removed? 3x is massive for siding. It ought to look good though.


----------



## Adkpk

Nice pic. Looks like you have your work cut out for you.  



spencerhenry said:


>


----------



## TNMIKE

*Amazing location*

That will be some residence when its finished. What kind of acreage goes with the lodge?


----------



## spencerhenry

more photos of the job early oct.


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

spencerhenry said:


> more photos of the job early oct.




Looks like fun!


----------



## Adkpk

I think I'm going to cry.


----------



## redprospector

Well my project isn't as impressive as spencerhenry's, but here is what I did with the Juniper I milled along with some old Aspen that has been sticker stacked out in the weather for quite a while.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/redprospector/OurHouseRemodel078.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/redprospector/OurHouseRemodel077.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/redprospector/OurHouseRemodel076.jpg

Here is a Pocket door I built.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/redprospector/OurHouseRemodel071.jpg

Andy


----------



## Woodsurfer

OK, here is my modest effort. The first stuff built with my own milled wood! :biggrinbounce2: 

This is yellow birch, one piece top, about 22" high.






Very nice grain, smells like cherry in the shop. Nice to work with.






I made four! All for family gifts...






I glued a pic on the bottom of each, the tree getting cut down... This is special wood since it comes from the family cottage.


----------



## dustytools

No need to be modest with that effort. Those tables are beautiful!! Great job!


----------



## BobL

Nice work on the tables WS. I like the idea of connecting to the original tree.

Cheers


----------



## Mike Van

I sawed the beams on my mill and timberframed our family room about 10 years ago. Most are oak, theres one maple & one hickory. One of the 6x6 rafters came from an old apple tree my grandfather had planted, wind took it over. Also did the flooring, trim, & tulip ceiling.


----------



## dustytools

Nice job!!!


----------



## stonykill

*some spalted maple*

these are a few pics of 2 end tables, and 1 bench that I made from spalted maple. I got home one day, and a local firewood guy, who brings me stuff he can't sell, for free of course, dropped 2 4 foot logs, around 30 inches in diameter in the yard. Wheww, that was a sentence. Anyway, I milled what I could salvage, and the balance is in the firewood pile.


----------



## stonykill

another end table, crackled base.


----------



## stonykill

*the bench*


----------



## stonykill

All this was milled with the pioneer Holiday, 58cc's. I used the mini mill and the 24 inch alaskan to mill the 30 inch or so logs into cants. Had i had the Pioneer P51's at the time, I would have used one of those. 58cc's and a 24 inch bar did it, just took some thought, and the small loader to roll the logs.


----------



## dustytools

Nice job Stonykill. That sure is some beautiful wood, Im glad you were able to salvage it and turn it into something. Again,GREAT job!!!


----------



## zopi

nice save! I picked up a spalted maple burl the other day...only got a bout five bd ft out of it but it will make a nice little jewelry box or something in a year or two....


----------



## stonykill

zopi said:


> nice save! I picked up a spalted maple burl the other day...only got a bout five bd ft out of it but it will make a nice little jewelry box or something in a year or two....



thanks, I've got a decent supply of it left. A few boards are set aside for guitar bodys, I'll figure out what to do with the rest......


----------



## woodshop

BEAUTIFUL pieces stony, great job. I love that bench. I like how you took something destined for the trash heap or firepit and turned it into something that people may very well be enjoying 100 years from now.


----------



## stonykill

woodshop said:


> BEAUTIFUL pieces stony, great job. I love that bench. I like how you took something destined for the trash heap or firepit and turned it into something that people may very well be enjoying 100 years from now.



thanks woodshop. I find that the most beautiful wood is what most people consider junk. Thats what its all about, milling unusual wood, to make interesting projects


----------



## BobL

Just saw this Stonykill. Very very nice work and something to aspire to.
Cheers


----------



## duffontap

Great thread. Tons of beautiful work here. This is a rocking cradle I built when my daughter was born last spring. It's made from Pacific Yew I had cut for longbows but that didn't make the grade. Since I had packed it out of a canyon on my back, it seemed a shame to not use it for something special. I milled the wood with an 8" jointer and a big bandsaw. 

J. D.


----------



## stonykill

duffontap said:


> Great thread. Tons of beautiful work here. This is a rocking cradle I build when my daughter was born last spring. It's made from Pacific Yew I had cut for longbows but that didn't make the grade. Since I had packed it out of a canyon on my back, it seemed a shame to not use it for something special. I milled the wood with an 8" jointer and a big bandsaw.
> 
> J. D.



very nice. So you build bows. Self bows? I've built a few myself. Selfbows that is. Its time to build another. Each one gets a little better than the last. I use what we have here on the east coast. I've got a roughed out bow blank of dogwood to start tillering. I've also got 4 birch staves drying. I've used the birch before for unbacked self bows and had good luck, until a hinge formed. My fault. The best one I ever built was of white oak. 68 inch longbow, 1 1/2 wide at the widest point on the limbs. It pulled 65 lbs. Eventually it broke. I let a friend try it, he had never used a self bow, and he overdrew it, it broke a few months later. Like I said, time to make a new selfbow.


----------



## dustytools

duffontap said:


> Great thread. Tons of beautiful work here. This is a rocking cradle I built when my daughter was born last spring. It's made from Pacific Yew I had cut for longbows but that didn't make the grade. Since I had packed it out of a canyon on my back, it seemed a shame to not use it for something special. I milled the wood with an 8" jointer and a big bandsaw.
> 
> J. D.



Awesome job!!!


----------



## duffontap

Yeah, selfbows and wood arrows only. I hunt with them, too. 

Here's a doug fir arrow from an old-growth I slabbed and doweled:





Here's the bow I hunted with this year--83# Yew English Longbow:





Here's a 110# Yew warbow replica:





I'd love to see what you build. It's a wonderful, challenging hobby.

J. D.


----------



## stonykill

I'll have to see if I have any pics. I doubt it, but I'll look. I'll post the dogwood bow pics when its done. I haven't built one in about a year, I've been too busy, but its time to take a few for me, and my sanity 

It is a great hobby. I only killed small game with a self bow, just never had a shot at a deer while carrying one. Killed several with a compound, but that isn't even close to the same thing.


----------



## BobL

duffontap said:


> Great thread. Tons of beautiful work here. This is a rocking cradle I built when my daughter was born last spring. It's made from Pacific Yew I had cut for longbows but that didn't make the grade. Since I had packed it out of a canyon on my back, it seemed a shame to not use it for something special. I milled the wood with an 8" jointer and a big bandsaw.



Nice work on the cradle - I like the bit about packing it out on your back! It reminds me of visiting an eco-miller in Brisbane. I travelled by train and he very kindly offered me some 2" x 4" pieces of Japanese Oak. So he cut 2 x 2 ft pieces and added another 2 x 2 ft pieces of flooded gum. I put all 4 pieces into my backpack and took it back to my hotel - at one point I was walking through the Brisbane city mall and got some strange looks from people. Anyway I finally got it back to the other side of the country OK.


----------



## woodshop

BobL said:


> Nice work on the cradle - I like the bit about packing it out on your back!



Same here... that part struck me. Puts meaning to the phrase "labor of love". I'm one who gets sentimental about exactly where the wood comes from when I make something. Example, I kept the wood from the cradle all three of my girls grew up in as babies. They are young women now, but some day I'll make something small from that wood for each of them. When I first started milling I used to try and keep track of all my boards, what part of the country they came from, what farm or whatever. That became impossible one I started milling thousands of feet a year, but I still mark the boards of special trees so I can pick them out later. Beautiful work, nice job on that cradle.


----------



## BobL

woodshop said:


> . . . . . Example, I kept the wood from the cradle all three of my girls grew up in as babies. They are young women now, but some day I'll make something small from that wood for each of them.



Nice idea ! This reminds me of the following, as a child my wife had a solid gold bracelet made from the last of the gold that her grandfather had mined from a place called Bamboo creek during the 1920's. When she was about 17 she found she could not remove it and had to have it it cut off because it was getting a bit too tight. Eventually her mother had the gold made into 3 broaches for her 3 grand daughters, much to her annoyance my wife missed out completely.


----------



## BobL

*BIL Mill - first product*

A week or so back I was rummaging through some milling off-cuts that had ended up on the firewood pile and I noticed a badly warped face cut from a Liquid Amber which was the first log I milled with the BIL Mill. Anyway it looked pretty warped and bent so I cut a bit off and tested it with my moisture tested and it said 15% I threw it in the van and it kept calling me saying it wanted to be a tray so here it is.




The sides are sheoak - milled with my small mill earlier this year. I going to give it as an Xmas gift to my sister (BIL's wife) for putting up with me dropping around all the time to chew the fat on mills with BIL.


----------



## dustytools

BobL said:


> A week or so back I was rummaging through some milling off-cuts that had ended up on the firewood pile and I noticed a badly warped face cut from a Liquid Amber which was the first log I milled with the BIL Mill. Anyway it looked pretty warped and bent so I cut a bit off and tested it with my moisture tested and it said 15% I threw it in the van and it kept calling me saying it wanted to be a tray so here it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are sheoak - milled with my small mill earlier this year. I going to give it as an Xmas gift to my sister (BIL's wife) for putting up with me dropping around all the time to chew the fat on mills with BIL.



Nice job Bob!


----------



## AndyR

*Nothing fancy - and cheating a little*

I picked up this wood lathe of questionable quality on craigslist a week or so ago and made the stand last weekend. The idea for the stand constuction came from the web somewhere, and I have to say for around $30.00 it's pretty sturdy. I say it's not that high of quality but for my uses it works fine.

I turned this handle for a bailey #4 that I'm refurbishing from a hunk of Osage Orange that I found along the side of the road (in a hedgerow). It was mostly dried out as it had pobably been there a year or so and has been drying inside for a while now. I really like this wood! When I get the milling stuff set up I think thats probably going to be one of my favorites.

I've been watching this thread for a while and all of the work here is impressive. I'm sort of a beginner.

Thanks for all the inspiration.
Now to find some old socket chisels in need of newly turned handles...

Andy


----------



## stonykill

very nice. I love using my lathe. Keep it up!


----------



## dustytools

I love to turn wood too. Nice job on the handle and keep posting pictures of your work.


----------



## BobL

I wish I had a lathe ! - OTOH maybe it's good that I don't, otherwise that is all I would do!


----------



## woodshop

BobL said:


> I wish I had a lathe ! - OTOH maybe it's good that I don't, otherwise that is all I would do!



Sorta where I'm coming from Bob... the lathe is one of the least used tools in my shop at the moment because of the steep learning curve which would take LOTS of my time, which would take away from everything else. I've muddled through a few things, made some chair rungs etc, but I see the magic some can do on a lathe with the right techniques and I marvel. One day I will take the time to get better on it. 

Nice little plane knob Andy... I love working with osage orange. It's hard as a rock yet is still relatively easy to work in the shop. As we speak I have over 1000 bd ft of osage logs still in my driveway waiting to be milled.


----------



## Adkpk

Ah, yes, the lathe. I picked one up this summer at a garage sale. I payed $140. I think for a table saw, jointer combo and this lathe. 








The lathe came with all kinds of extras including a draw full of chisels. The table saw works great but the jointer needs a pulley. Does anyone know of a company who specializes in pulleys. It doesn't have a key, instead, how do you say, it's flat on 1/4 of the shaft.


----------



## rayvil01

_Does anyone know of a company who specializes in pulleys?_

Mc Master-Carr has a pretty good selection: http://www.mcmaster.com/


----------



## woodshop

rayvil01 said:


> _Does anyone know of a company who specializes in pulleys?_
> 
> Mc Master-Carr has a pretty good selection: http://www.mcmaster.com/



I've used Master-Carr, and also another good one for that kinda stuff is MSC 
www.mscdirect.com

Both of these companies specialize in that kind of thing, as well as just about anything else industrial/mechanical. They are not the cheapest though.


----------



## Haywire Haywood

Through feats of pure skill, I chopped off a piece of cedar I milled and used it for a riser this past weekend. We had some hardwood put in and I discovered that I forgot that the top riser on this step had carpet on it so with the carpet removed it left a patch of OSB. Rather than make the 20 minute trip into town for a proper board, I just cut a piece and put it in. We'll paint it later. --Ian


----------



## BobL

Haywire Haywood said:


> Through feats of pure skill, I chopped off a piece of cedar I milled and used it for a riser this past weekend. We had some hardwood put in and I discovered that I forgot that the top riser on this step had carpet on it so with the carpet removed it left a patch of OSB. Rather than make the 20 minute trip into town for a proper board, I just cut a piece and put it in. We'll paint it later. --Ian



These are the kind of solutions I like - I hope you made it clear to your significant other that this was too!


----------



## aquan8tor

Adrpk said:


> Ah, yes, the lathe. I picked one up this summer at a garage sale. I payed $140. I think for a table saw, jointer combo and this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe came with all kinds of extras including a draw full of chisels. The table saw works great but the jointer needs a pulley. Does anyone know of a company who specializes in pulleys. It doesn't have a key, instead, how do you say, it's flat on 1/4 of the shaft.






I had a similar problem finding a pulley to match my old rockwell 4" jointer that I got from a guy locally. I found a seller on ebay that has lots of pulleys, good prices, etc. "electricmotorsite" is his user id. if you can't find anything through mcmastercarr or msc. Those megacatalogs can be daunting, but I've sure found a lot of things through McMaster-Carr over the years that I couldn't find anywhere else. Good stuff.


----------



## BobL

Not with my wood but I know you guys are wood freaks so I thought you might like see what I'm doing at a two week intensive luthiers in Melbourne. Building an Acoustic Guitar in 2 weeks using all Aussie timber.

Starting point - Tasmanian Blackwood



Joining the back.



Steam Bending the sides. The teacher (Chris Wynne) is the guy standing on the right.



Joining the top.



Bent sides ready to be joined.



More pics in the next post.


----------



## BobL

*Acoustic Guitar WIP 2*

Joining the sides:



Attaching the back bracing to the back. The bracing is made from Bunya Pine.




Added the edge liners.


Here is another students effort using Black Heart Sassafras.



Sides being attached to body.


----------



## BobL

*Acoustic Guitar Building WIP Part 3*

FInal Gluing of back braces.



Rosetta and soundhole in King Billy Pine soundboard.



Scalloped Bracing on back of sound board - the bracing is in Bunya Pine. This took one whole day - all hand done.



So here is where I'm up to at the end of 4 days. The neck is Queensland Maple.



And, just to round things out, at the end of the day 3 ex students and the guitars they made at a previous course turn up and jam for us.



This is nearly as good as milling. My aim some time in the future is no to turn what I mill into something like this.

Cheers


----------



## woodshop

BobL said:


> Scalloped Bracing on back of sound board - the bracing is in Bunya Pine. This took one whole day - all hand done.



Very interesting post... this is an example of how satisfying making something from wood can be. Making a musical instrument adds yet another dimension to the project as every time you play it you're thinking of how you built it from scratch. I've built two hammer dulcimers to date, and the advice I can give to anybody making any kind of soundbox type instrument like these is... patience and SUPER strict attention to detail. If you ever build one, you can appreciate why custom handmade good ones cost so much.


----------



## BobL

woodshop said:


> Very interesting post... this is an example of how satisfying making something from wood can be. Making a musical instrument adds yet another dimension to the project as every time you play it you're thinking of how you built it from scratch. I've built two hammer dulcimers to date, and the advice I can give to anybody making any kind of soundbox type instrument like these is... patience and SUPER strict attention to detail. If you ever build one, you can appreciate why custom handmade good ones cost so much.



RE: patience and SUPER strict attention to detail. 
The scalloped bracing widths are finished with a large belt/drum sander to within 0.1 mm of their final widths. Apparently this is the critical dimension. The height tolerances of the braces varies from several mm to less than 0.5 mm. The bracing has to be done in a specific sequence to ensure the 2 mm curvature of the front is developed progressively so that it is maintained.


----------



## aquan8tor

BobL said:


> FInal Gluing of back braces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rosetta and soundhole in King Billy Pine soundboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scalloped Bracing on back of sound board - the bracing is in Bunya Pine. This took one whole day - all hand done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is where I'm up to at the end of 4 days. The neck is Queensland Maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, just to round things out, at the end of the day 3 ex students and the guitars they made at a previous course turn up and jam for us.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is nearly as good as milling. My aim some time in the future is no to turn what I mill into something like this.
> 
> Cheers





WOW! That's some beautiful and skillful work there, Bob. Luthiery is an incredible and beautiful craft! I'm a saxophonist, but I play with a lot of old time string musicians, one of which works as a luthier. I have the utmost respect for people that make instruments. Truly a dying craft. Nice post!!!!


----------



## BobL

aquan8tor said:


> WOW! That's some beautiful and skillful work there, Bob. Luthiery is an incredible and beautiful craft! I'm a saxophonist, but I play with a lot of old time string musicians, one of which works as a luthier. I have the utmost respect for people that make instruments. Truly a dying craft. Nice post!!!!



Thanks Aquanator,

Last couple of days (Days 5-6-7 of the course) I have more or less finished the body and have been working on the neck and fret board. The neck is rough bandsaw cut to shape and then hand carved (spokeshave, rasps, scrapers and sandpaper). In this Picture the fretboard (made of an incredibly hard timber called Gidgee) isis just held in place with masking tape.



This evening the neck was finally glued to the body.



Tomorrow (day 8) I will be gluing the fretboard on and doing the final carving of the headstock and neck. Then it's sand - sand sand for a whole day!!

Cheers


----------



## Woodsurfer

Looks great Bob, very interesting. I like the names of the Aussie wood... Tasmanian Blackwood, Bunya Pine, King Billy - great stuff.

Some questions! What is the fretboard made from? Is the neck a mix of heart wood and sapwood (looks partly white and partly gray)? Is that soundhole rosette an inlay? How are the fret cuts made? No room for error there. Won't it be great to get some strings on it and let it ring out?!


----------



## BobL

Woodsurfer said:


> Looks great Bob, very interesting. I like the names of the Aussie wood... Tasmanian Blackwood, Bunya Pine, King Billy - great stuff.



Thanks

RE: What is the fretboard made from?
The Fretboard is from a timber called Gidgee. It's almost as hard as ebony but it has some wonderful variations and striations of grain ranging between deep chocolate brown, medium beige, cream and white and even hints of grey. It rarely comes in big trees. Here is a link to a closer up picture of it

RE: Is the neck a mix of heart wood and sapwood (looks partly white and partly gray)?
The dark stripe on the neck is the internal truss rod line routed out ready to go.

RE: Is that soundhole rosette an inlay? 
No - its just a sort of plastic herringbone ring. As this is my first guitar I have concentrated on learning the basics well without worrying too much about the artistic side of things.

RE: How are the fret cuts made?
The Luthier has a custom made fine toothed circular saw (6") and we used a set of acrylic templates and a sliding table - it was too easy - it took about 3 minutes to cut them!

RE: Won't it be great to get some strings on it and let it ring out?! 

Yeah - all being well that will be friday. The Sound box already has a wonderful hollow booming sound when you tap a drum beat on it!


----------



## dustytools

Awesome job on the guitar Bob!


----------



## BobL

More Guitar building Pics.

Where the whole class was up to by the end of Day 7 of the course





Days 8 and 9 involved gluing on the fret board, shaping the neck, adding the frets, and making and adding the bridge, and lots more sanding, sanding sanding sanding!


At the end of the day I managed to get the first of five coats of Danish oil onto the main surfaces.




The Fret board has lemon oils applied just before stringing up.

Enjoy


----------



## irishcountry

*Great Job!*

You have done a great job on that guitar!! One day I would like to build a acoustic from scratch I have done a electric but the acoustic in a totally different animal and alot harder. What a great project!! Keep posting pics and updates love to see!! Again great job. Thanks


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

Very nice!


----------



## cabinman

duffontap said:


> Great thread. Tons of beautiful work here. This is a rocking cradle I built when my daughter was born last spring. It's made from Pacific Yew I had cut for longbows but that didn't make the grade. Since I had packed it out of a canyon on my back, it seemed a shame to not use it for something special. I milled the wood with an 8" jointer and a big bandsaw.
> 
> J. D.



I love the beautiful woodworrking, Iam concernd abiut the height of the sides, most of my kidds were about 75/25, 75% percent top heavy, arn,t all 6,mo olds little legs and huge tops,. sorry , I got of track,..just concernd about the baby,.


----------



## woodshop

cabinman said:


> I love the beautiful woodworrking, Iam concernd abiut the height of the sides, most of my kidds were about 75/25, 75% percent top heavy, arn,t all 6,mo olds little legs and huge tops,. sorry , I got of track,..just concernd about the baby,.



I does kinda look like if a toddler managed to climb or pull him/herself up to one of those corners and try and stand up, it might go over. The ends of the rockers do have that curved tip that makes it hard for the thing to do that. I built a rocking chair that called for a simple shallow knob at the very end of the curved rocker part, which surprisingly made it almost impossible to get the thing to go over backwards no matter how much you got it rocking and leaned back on it. However, this crib is on carpet, which would help absorb that, and thus it might just go over.

BTW absolutely beautiful guitar Bob... I envy you having the time to spend a week at that shop and build that thing. I'd love to do that. Take it to a show or to somebody who plays for a living, and let him/her have a go at it.


----------



## cabinman

*crib*



woodshop said:


> I does kinda look like if a toddler managed to climb or pull him/herself up to one of those corners and try and stand up, it might go over. The ends of the rockers do have that curved tip that makes it hard for the thing to do that. I built a rocking chair that called for a simple shallow knob at the very end of the curved rocker part, which surprisingly made it almost impossible to get the thing to go over backwards no matter how much you got it rocking and leaned back on it. However, this crib is on carpet, which would help absorb that, and thus it might just go over.
> 
> BTW absolutely beautiful guitar Bob... I envy you having the time to spend a week at that shop and build that thing. I'd love to do that. Take it to a show or to somebody who plays for a living, and let him/her have a go at it.



I was speeking of the height of the sides primarily, the fact that its a rocker adds a little to my concern, of the baby tipping out, not the crib tipping over,


----------



## Adkpk

Maybe, better safe than sorry.


----------



## BobL

woodshop said:


> BTW absolutely beautiful guitar Bob... I envy you having the time to spend a week at that shop and build that thing. I'd love to do that. Take it to a show or to somebody who plays for a living, and let him/her have a go at it.



Thanks WS - the teacher is a fully trained classical guitarist but can play any style (blues, flamenco etc) reasonably well too. Every day, once things are arolling he gets out his favorite and gives us a one hour burst of variety pickin'. There's something special about making a guitar while the teacher plays. I hope he can at least give mine a bit of a work over tomorrow.

Cheers


----------



## BobL

Final Pics of the finished Guitar:















Master Luthier Chris giving it a good run. Of course you want to know how it sounds - freaking nice - pity I can't play all that much! I guess I need to start practicing a bit more.



Its been a real fun project - hope you enjoyed the voyage.
Cheers


----------



## woodshop

Just beautiful... beautiful instrument. I love that bookmatched back. Glad it does sound good. I've seen many instruments built by hand that looked drop dead, but didn't sound all that great for what apparently could be many reasons when you're dealing with a wooden soundbox. That's one reason luthiers tend to be so strictly traditional when it comes to details, instrument design, what kind of wood to use etc. Met a guy once who built and sold Appalachian dulcimers, was very good at it and they sounded great. They were light as a feather, looked beautiful and he sold many. He said he took a stab at making hammer dulcimers at one point, but after many attempts, just could not make one that sounded great over the whole range of notes without it weighing 50 lbs, and he eventually gave up on it. Point being even good luthiers have problems getting some instruments to sound great. 

Any plans now to build another one from scratch at home in your shop now that you've attended a workshop like that? I know there would be more than just a few jigs to build, but nothing you couldn't handle if you took the time.


----------



## BobL

woodshop said:


> Any plans now to build another one from scratch at home in your shop now that you've attended a workshop like that? I know there would be more than just a few jigs to build, but nothing you couldn't handle if you took the time.



Short Answer is yes, longer answer is, I really want to use at least some wood that I have milled so I have to wait for some of it to dry a bit more. One of my brothers has some experience and a few bits and a buddy at work has built quite a few that I hope I can borrow some Jigs from them.


----------



## BobL

*A few final close up pics*

I'll just let the picks speak for themselves.





















First scratch - just under bridge - I did it by accident with a fingernail - slipped while polishing!  .


----------



## BobL

*Last pics - I promise.*





















Remnant glue line that needs tidying.


----------



## zopi

Man, that is gorgeous!


----------



## NJANDPA

Thanks for sharing the story and pictures. How many total hours of hands on work did it take you for this first one? Did the instructor say how many hours it would take him to make one? Any long term attention to the finish? Thanks again, great job!


----------



## woodshop

NJANDPA said:


> ...Any long term attention to the finish? ...



Yeah, speaking of the finish, I was wondering what you finished it with? You said 5 coats of Danish oil... but did you put a coat of lacquer or poly on top of that for the final finish?


----------



## BobL

NJANDPA said:


> Thanks for sharing the story and pictures. How many total hours of hands on work did it take you for this first one? Did the instructor say how many hours it would take him to make one? Any long term attention to the finish? Thanks again, great job!



No worries:

If you take out the time spent waiting for the coats of oil to dry and chatting with visitors to the school (they have an open house policy that visitors can walk in at any time) I estimate it took me about 85 hours over 11 days. One of the guys in the class took only 75 hours, but he is a very experienced machinist by profession. I also paid a lot of attention to sanding the insides which is not normally done. The other 2 students (there are no more than 4 students in a class) took a few hours longer than me. 

The instructor said he can make a guitar in a long week and also make them 2-3 at a time if he needs to, AND his finishes are flawless. His prices start at around $4000 for a steel string and up to double that for a classical guitar.

Long term finish. Apart from the fret board which is coated in lemon oil, the rest of the guitar has 5 coats of Danish oil (rubbed down with fine steel wool between coats) and 3 coats of Natural wood working wax (no lacquer was used). A polish with the same wood working wax is suggested every 3 - 6 months. The benefit of this type of finish is that if it gets scratched it can be rubbed lightly back with steel wool and the scratches sanded out with fine sandpaper and then recoated in the same way. Although lacquer or similar style finishes are harder, repairing scratches require a lot more work.


----------



## stonykill

*hutch table*

I rarely post table pics, as how many tables can you look at? This is a hutch table out of cherry. Distressed, heavy, and beautiful. I haven't built one of these in a while, and thought I would share.

I model my hutch tables after an original from the early 1800's that I restored years ago.






















this was a tree that was at a friends house. Storm damaged and too close to his garage.


----------



## dustytools

Beautiful table Stonykill! I have some Cherry that I milled from a leaner that I found on the back of the farm last year. Im gonna build a corner curio for the wife out of it. Nice job!!!


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

Very Cool!

What finish did you use to get that antique look?


----------



## zopi

now, THAT is furniture....spindly little stuff that destroys itself the first time one of the rugrats tumbles by...nah. 

Very pretty.


----------



## woodshop

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Very Cool!
> 
> What finish did you use to get that antique look?



Nice... yeah I too am curious what finish you put on it. Did you start with an oil to darken things up? Also, curious how many bd ft of cherry are in a table like that. Just saw in my latest issue of Woodshop News, that cherry prices remain high. $5.50 to $6 a ft for FAS here in east, and closer to $7 on the west coast.


----------



## stonykill

woodshop said:


> Nice... yeah I too am curious what finish you put on it. Did you start with an oil to darken things up? Also, curious how many bd ft of cherry are in a table like that. Just saw in my latest issue of Woodshop News, that cherry prices remain high. $5.50 to $6 a ft for FAS here in east, and closer to $7 on the west coast.



Thanks all. The stain is a custom mix of my own, just 2 different Zar stains, mixed in a certain "secret" proportion. It's pretty close to the color real antique cherry gets after 100 years or so. The clear is 4 coats of ml campbell catalized laquer. Sanded with 320 between coats. Its a nice dull sheen, that will last for 25 years or more if taken care of. In other words, this table will have this look for years! 

I haven't figured out the board footage. It's really not much more than a conventional table. By the time leg stock is glued , lack of the 2 long aprons etc I use around the same # of boards on these tables as on my regular farm tables. 

Yeah, cherry prices are down right scary around here. These boards cost me a tank or 2 of gas mix and a little time. Still got a lot of that tree left. 

The top is a full 1 1/4 thick on this. It just makes it look right, and the table stand alone in the crowd.

Woodshop news, got your own publication....lol:spam:


----------



## zopi

stonykill said:


> mixed in a certain "secret" proportion.



didn't measure, eh? :hmm3grin2orange: 

I scored a nice big cherry branch the other day..10" or with not a lot of taper..if it ever dries up around here I'll go fetch it..


----------



## stonykill

zopi said:


> didn't measure, eh? :hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> I scored a nice big cherry branch the other day..10" or with not a lot of taper..if it ever dries up around here I'll go fetch it..



lol, nah, its measured. I've been making this color for around 10 years.


----------



## BobL

Great table and finish Stony. Most "antiqued" stuff looks too fake for my liking but this one looks just right.


----------



## stonykill

BobL said:


> Great table and finish Stony. Most "antiqued" stuff looks too fake for my liking but this one looks just right.



before going to work for myself I worked for a # of years at an antique repair refinish shop. I got a lot of practice working on fake antiques and making them look like the real thing. If the antique dealer is paying, and the boss says do it, I did it. Wotrked out to my advantage tho


----------



## duffontap

cabinman said:


> I was speeking of the height of the sides primarily, the fact that its a rocker adds a little to my concern, of the baby tipping out, not the crib tipping over,



I just saw these comments. The rockers are always blocked for safety. I didn't know what would be safe dimensions so I just matched a popular commercial cradle. Cradles are for little babies--crawlers get cribs.  

J. D.


----------



## BobL

*can you guess what these are?*

The one with the thicker brass washer is made from sheoak which I milled last year. The other is made from Queensland Maple and Bunya Pine.


----------



## zopi

high dollar string winders.


----------



## BobL

zopi said:


> high dollar string winders.



Ca-ching!, Yeah, you can buy simple plastic ones for $2, or the same design as these for ~$12? but the wooden ones are sooooooo... much nicer to use than plastic.


----------



## zopi

What's I win? one o them hoooooge redgums+airmail postage?:jawdrop:  

I am one of the crappiest guitar players in the world....can put a nice flamejob on 'em tho'...


----------



## BobL

zopi said:


> What's I win? one o them hoooooge redgums+airmail postage?:jawdrop:



I'll send you a dream that you milled one of those. . . watch out for it over the next couple of nights



zopi said:


> I am one of the crappiest guitar players in the world....can put a nice flamejob on 'em tho'...



Crappy playing - yeah Me too, flamejobs - maybe with a cigarette lighter!

Cheers


----------



## cantcutter

here is a pot rack I made out of some left overs from some white oak wagon runners I milled. My wife wanted one and I couldn't see spending 100.00 on a cheap metal one. I bought the pot rack hooks for 25.00, the stock pannel for 18.00, oak free.


----------



## stonykill

nice!


----------



## woodshop

very nice cantcutter... I like free


----------



## zopi

Brilliant!


----------



## cantcutter

The good news is that it is 4 ft x 6 ft, so I should not ever have to build another one because there is plenty of room. 

The only thing I would have done different is put the dado blade on the table saw from the start instead of messing with the router and breaking two bits


----------



## EPA

Here are a cpl pics of a 24' x36' 2 story barn framed ( and to be sided) with lumber off my LM 2000 EPA


----------



## irishcountry

Nice, like your sawshed too!!


----------



## wdchuck

EPA said:


> Here are a cpl pics of a 24' x36' 2 story barn framed ( and to be sided) with lumber off my LM 2000 EPA



That right there is a good reason for a band mill, especially if you can get free logs, framing/siding/shelving/cabinets in that building would pay for some mills.
Look forward to more pics/stories EPA.


----------



## KeithTree

That looks really good.

How long do you have to season the wood.


----------



## EPA

Hi Keithtree: This was air dried over a year and a half because the customer didn't get around to start it ///// Normally you can rough frame in about 20 min. // Board and Batt siding can also go up green but the cracks will be bigger. ship lap should dry 3-6 mo inorder to plane it EPA


----------



## aquan8tor

Not exactly from milled wood, but 12/4 and 16/4 stock all the same. I'm going to post in the turning forum as well. Go easy on the critiques; I'm really new to turning, and I know there are a couple cracks. They were filled with CA glue and epoxy, and won't open any more than they already are. Plus, they add a rustic, organic quality to the bowls. IMHO.


----------



## AndyR

Those bowls look great to me! Nice wood too. I don't mind the cracks in pieces like those. For me, your bowls are showcasing the character of the wood and yes, wood gets cracks, as well as curl and burls (which are more accepted forms of natural occurences in the wood).

That's why turnings and some furniture pieces,when done well, are attractive with a live edge, bark inclusions, etc...

Andy


----------



## BobL

Here's a couple of hand tool handles milled from an apricot tree last year. These handles are turned from scrap bits of face cut/slabs. When I get something interesting like fruit wood I keep all the bits.




Saw blades are bought one but turning tool blade is made from a detempered old half round file.

Here's a brass headed carving mallet with handle made from a dry Western Australian Sheoak short I milled. about 2 months ago.


----------



## dustytools

Nice handles Bob!


----------



## slabmaster

Here's a Native American flute i built out of ash milled on my property.


----------



## BobL

slabmaster said:


> Here's a Native American flute i built out of ash milled on my property.



Nice flute, - are they vintage Fender Amps in that picture?


----------



## irishcountry

Good stuff both of you won't find that stuff at the big box stores!! I was going to ask the same thing are those fenders?? Nothing like a vintage amp all the digital processors out there just can't touch em'.


----------



## slabmaster

irishcountry said:


> Good stuff both of you won't find that stuff at the big box stores!! I was going to ask the same thing are those fenders?? Nothing like a vintage amp all the digital processors out there just can't touch em'.



Yea, The top amp is a 1964 bandmaster.The bottom is a 1969 Marshall stack.


----------



## BobL

slabmaster said:


> Yea, The top amp is a 1964 bandmaster.The bottom is a 1969 Marshall stack.



Nice - they also seemed kind of a huge contrast against the native flute.


----------



## slabmaster

Yea,they are taller than i am.The flute is 22" long.


----------



## BobL

Still waiting for the weather to cool off here so over the last month or so I have been making this commissioned "luthier's toolkit".

All wood except for the marking knife (curly Jarrah) was milled by yours truly. All metalwork except the Japanese saw blade also made by me from stock plate or rod. Fretting mallet and Japanese saw handle are Aussie sheoak, chisel handles are Redgum, from my milled scraps pile. The chisel plane handle is made from a very rare Western Australian timber called Red Tingle.


----------



## stonykill

lol, waiting for the weather to cool off. I'm waiting for it to warm up! Its 50 now, finally a nice day! Great job as always!!!!


----------



## woodshop

Bob looks like you do quality professional work, nice job. Especially when you consider that you made most of the kit from scratch. You need to take the time to market your work in some unique niche market that appreciates your skills. Quite an accomplishment. 

Yeah... same as Stony, I'm looking forward to when the weather gets up in the 50's and 60's again. You folks down under are backwards, because you're... down under


----------



## dustytools

Nice work as always Bob!!!


----------



## BobL

Thanks Fellas. 

Besides the weather, it's a bit of a tug of war between my tool making and milling interests. I went to the milling yard recently and there are plenty of logs accumulating for me to tackle. A week or two and I should be able to get started again.


----------



## TNMIKE

*Very Nice*

Just wondering how you did the metal work? I do a lot of forge and machine work here and I would guess you might have used precision ground annealed stock and perhaps heat treated the chisels yourself?? 

Very nice tool kit...


----------



## BobL

TNMIKE said:


> Just wondering how you did the metal work? I do a lot of forge and machine work here and I would guess you might have used precision ground annealed stock and perhaps heat treated the chisels yourself??
> 
> Very nice tool kit...



Thanks Mike.

The brass items are milled/turned at work where we have an old but useful metal shop. but otherwise the remainder of the metal work is done in my home shop using basic machines and hand techniques/tools. I usually shape the metal using a combination of 4" belt sander, 5" angle grinder, 10" bench grinder, files and even a Dremel. The only metalworking machines I have at home are a 5" water cooled metal cutting disc mounted in an old 8" table saw and a 1 HP drill press. I also have a MAPP torch that I can silver solder small things with and a $99 stick welder.

I do work with precision ground gauge plate/stock - eg am in the middle of making a set of plane makers floats from some O1 tool steel, but none of the blades in this kit are made from 01.

The chisel plane blade and the marking knife point are made from old re-tempered files, cut on my water cooled saw and ground to shape on a grinder.

The chisel blades are made from low cost chinese M2 tool steel blanks. The sequence is as follows;
- The blanks are not rectangular, so the first thing I do is cut one end (cutting end) square. 
- Next the tang and small curve near the tang are cut and ground. 
- Then I mount the blade sideways in a steel holder than exposes just the metal at an approprite that needs to be ground away on the long sideways bevel, the bevel is then ground using a bench grinder and belt sander.
- Then I grind the primary bevel before epoxying the blade and ferrule onto the handle.

The advantage of M2 is that is can be shaped by grinding with minimal attention to temperature and loss of temper and no subsequent heat treatment is required. The M2 steel is very hard and so takes a longer to sharpen but OTOH it holds it's edge for a lot longer than carbon tool steel.


----------



## Industry

My House! I started sawing the 2x4s today. did 1100 BF in 4 hours. One pine long we sawed had over 400BF in it. here are a few pics of my fathers Timber harvester in action. will have more as the project goes on.


----------



## BobL

*More tools*

Here is another set of tools I have been working on. They are wooden plane maker floats. (tools for making tools like wooden planes).



Apricot wood handles (I'm not even half way through one slab of that small apricot tree I milled last year).



O1 tool steel blanks. I cut the teeth with a mill and a dovetail cutter, then hardened and tempered the steel.




They are simply wonderful handtools to use.

If me posting all these tools is boring you guys - just tell me to go away!


----------



## TNMIKE

*NO...keep posting*

Its not boring at all...great work


----------



## woodshop

BobL said:


> ...If me posting all these tools is boring you guys - just tell me to go away!


...are you nuts? Guys like me love lookin' at tools, especially beautiful hand made heirloom tools like you make. Don't stop posting your work Bob, it's top of the line. I love that apricot. Question... what did you do for a finish on the handles... oil and wax? If so, what oil and what wax if I may ask.


----------



## BobL

woodshop said:


> ...are you nuts? Guys like me love lookin' at tools, especially beautiful hand made heirloom tools like you make. Don't stop posting your work Bob, it's top of the line. I love that apricot. Question... what did you do for a finish on the handles... oil and wax? If so, what oil and what wax if I may ask.



Thanks for the positive feedback guys.

RE: Finish oil and wax is correct.
Just about all my tool handles are finished in the same way. 
- Start with sanding down to 400 grit paper.
- Liberally apply pale boiled linseed oil (PBLO) wiped on with a cloth, wait till soaked in - maybe one hour, and then another coat, wait overnight.
-Take the same cloth as before and add ~10 drops of PLBO and 2 drops of white shellac and wipe on - leave till dry - usually overnight.
- Rub down with superfine steel wool and repeat previous stage but increase the white shellac to 4 drops.
- lightly rub down with fine steel wool and wax with quality natural wax

The other finish I like to use on hardwood handles is tung oil rubbed it into the grain using 800 grit wet and dry, wipe off excess and allow to dry. Then wax. It's a very good grain closing finish but it does make dark timbers go even darker.


----------



## cantcutter

This was my newest creation.


----------



## woodshop

...doghouse? ...chicken coop? Made out of pine? I like the rough sawn look of it. Imagine how much less character it would have if made from smooth sanded milled boards. Some things just look so much better when the wood is left as it was milled. Fences are another example of that.


----------



## cantcutter

its a custom chicken coop that I did for a lady in town who has some chickens in her back yard. It's mixed pine and spruce, I got a bed frame to do now too out of beech for her husband; he wants it as a surprise for her for next year.


----------



## BobL

Good work and very serviceable - CC!


----------



## dustytools

Nice work cantcutter!


----------



## czeigler

Nice job!


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

Cool coop!


----------



## cantcutter

Thanks guys; I am very proud of the clapboards I made for the roof. I looked at those jigs you can buy for the mill and thought they where a dumb waste of money. I bought a package of wood shims for 99 cents and did the same thing the jig does, elivate one side of the cant, make a pass, lay the cant flat, make a pass, and repeat.


----------



## stonykill

*Medieval trestle table*

a few pics of my latest creation. A medieval trestle table custom ordered by a customer. All American elm except for the stretcher that is siberian elm. I especially like the stretcher. This is the customers design, not mine. If it were mine the top would be 2 wide thicker boards. I like it though. Its strong enough to park a truck on.


----------



## stonykill

*the finished medieval trestle table*

now a few pics of it finished


----------



## TNMIKE

*Beautiful job on the table*

Really massive looking piece


----------



## Woodsurfer

A rugged beauty, nice work.  

Are those big dowels or pins in the ends functional? Are those milling marks we see here and there? Did you distress it some to age it?


----------



## stonykill

Woodsurfer said:


> A rugged beauty, nice work.
> 
> Are those big dowels or pins in the ends functional? Are those milling marks we see here and there? Did you distress it some to age it?



thanks

those big pins hide the breadboard end hardware.

the shallow grooves are saw marks. All the deep ones are hand hewn marks with a broadaxe. you can't see it well in the pics, but the entire stretcher , I removed the bark with a broadaxe. 

Yes I distressed it. Again the pics don't do it justice, but the top is very wavy, on purpose. Worn more in some spots than others. The boards purposely don't line up perfect. Its 500 years old, so ....... it wouldn't line up anymore. 

All the wormholes are natural. Looks better that way. 

No I didn't use chains. I hate that. It looks like you hit it with chains if you do that.


----------



## aquan8tor

I kinda like it! I'm part swedish, & it makes me think of something you'd see in a Viking mead hall or something (mead is "beer" made from honey if you haven't heard of it).


----------



## stonykill

aquan8tor said:


> I kinda like it! I'm part swedish, & it makes me think of something you'd see in a Viking mead hall or something (mead is "beer" made from honey if you haven't heard of it).



this is what my customer had in mind when we were discussing design. He is building his bar around this table


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

Nice work!


----------



## dustytools

Nice job Stonykill!


----------



## woodshop

Great job Stony, very good job of distressing. I agree, if you use chain and the like to distress, if often doesn't look real. Fine looking old table, you got the details right. Thanks for showing us that. Now if I could only get my Shopbot to distress wood and make it look authentically distressed.


----------



## big daddio

that's some great work there stony. the wife and i both like stuff like that. she went wild. how about showin' us some of that rustic stuff you do. saw on another thread you used the veritas tenon cutters. we like the stick furniture too.


----------



## Texas Traveler

stonykill said:


> I am so bad at remembering to take pictures. Here are a few of my current projects. Both are birch that I milled from my land. The table is shown just stained and with one coat of sealer on the top. I'll finish spraying in the morning. The 2nd table picture is right after I sprayed the sealer, so there is a bit of overspray in the pic. The 2nd piece is a tv cabinet I have been building. That one won't be done for a week or so as its no hurry. I'll post pics of both finished after they are done. The table pics should be here saturday. All the birch was milled with a 48cc 031, 24 inch bar, baileys lp chain.
> 
> http://picasaweb.google.com/stonykill/PROJECTS



You make some beautiful pieces, wish I could even get close.
The only reason I am posting is to ask if you ever used
pure swedish pine tar as a stain on birch wood.

I have & it brings out some awesome colors & grain of the birch.


----------



## stonykill

Texas Traveler said:


> You make some beautiful pieces, wish I could even get close.
> The only reason I am posting is to ask if you ever used
> pure swedish pine tar as a stain on birch wood.
> 
> I have & it brings out some awesome colors & grain of the birch.



thank you. 

No I never had. I ought to look into that>>


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

woodshop said:


> Great job Stony, very good job of distressing. I agree, if you use chain and the like to distress, if often doesn't look real. Fine looking old table, you got the details right. Thanks for showing us that. Now if I could only get my Shopbot to distress wood and make it look authentically distressed.



Huh??? How long have you had that?


opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:


----------



## Adkpk

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Huh??? How long have you had that?
> 
> 
> opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:



 I believe it.


----------



## woodshop

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Huh??? How long have you had that?
> 
> 
> opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:


My bot (Shopbot PRSalpha BT32) came about a month ago... but just now getting it operational. Unlike their larger CNC's the BT32 (their smallest bot) comes fully assembled. Thus first thing I did was uncrate it, and tear it apart into small enough chunks to get through a standard doorway and down into my basement shop. The thing weighs 700lb though, so was not an easy task, but eventually got it down, re-assembled, re-wired, realigned to specs and now learning how to program it. Shopbot control language is similar to ancient BASIC, and lots of commands are pretty intuitive, so the learning curve if you're halfway computer literate is not steep, just time consuming. It's an investment that will add another dimension to my little fledgling woodshop business.


----------



## woodshop

One of several new gift items I added for the fall shows... this is a bill/letter holder. Kinda unique although I've seen similar designs before. Relatively easy to make, but often tough to find the 12/4 stock needed for the dowel which I make on a metal lathe using a jig that holds a 3HP router I move down the bed. (see first pic) These two were made from apple I milled from a neighbors yard. Can't really see in these pics but it has some curly figure to it that really makes the piece pretty to look at sitting on your desk. 

This first pic just shows how I make the dowel, in this pic I am making smaller dowel than in the letter holder below.


----------



## dustytools

Nice piece Woodshop! How did you go about curving the top of the base?


----------



## stonykill

nice woodshop. I rough out all my leg blanks with a similar set up. I have a router mounted on an inexpensive duplicator. On a wood lathe. I can also knock out 7 to 8 legs an hour with this setup if they are simple turnings.


----------



## woodshop

dustytools said:


> Nice piece Woodshop! How did you go about curving the top of the base?



I start with a 1 1/8 x 5 1/4 x 5 1/2 base, set it on it's side and saw the "slope" on the bandsaw, then clean it up on the osc spindle sander and hand orbital sander. Unfortunately this is one of those things that takes a lot of finish sanding and fiddling around. I havn't been able to get it down to less than a half hour per when I include making the dowel from scratch etc.


----------



## woodshop

Summer of 2006 a cousin had a 34 inch red oak blow down in his back yard. That fall I milled about 700 ft out of it, mostly riftsawn lumber. This summer our church asked me to build them a couple simple Shaker type tables for the sanctuary and I wanted them to be stable, so I used the riftsawn lumber I milled from that tree to build them. Here is a quick and dirty (skipping lots of steps to spare you) order of events going from tree to finished table.

Buck main stem into 8ft logs and start slabbing with the csm 





slice an 8 inch thick cant





flip cant on end ready for milling into boards





slice into 4/4 and 5/4 with the Ripsaw





sticker and dry for about 8 months, then dead stack under front porch for a year or so... pull out about 30bd ft, enough for couple small tables





figure how you're going to cut up boards to make best use of lumber, mark and crosscut (already cut and tapered the legs in this pic)





assemble ends... for this size table I used biscuits, which in this case are as secure if not more so than traditional mortise and tenon. (I might get some grief from other woodworkers on this one... so be it.) 





four end rail/leg assemblies ready to go


----------



## woodshop

*tree to tables in 16 pics continued*

attach end rails to front and back rail... the blue tape keeps glue squeeze out from the outside of the rails/leg





clamp them and let them dry for couple hours





machine edges dead flat on jointer and glue up top





crosscut top to size... I used a circular saw with a piece of angle iron





scrape off glue line, sand to 180 grit, put an 8 degree bevel all edges on table saw... here is a finished top ready to attach to rails/legs





attach table top to rails... allow for expansion by only screwing one side. The rest of the top is relatively tight and snug to the rails, but can move slightly as humidity swells and shrinks that oak with the weather. If you didn't do this, the top could crack. The wood worker who fails to take wood movement into consideration does so at his/her peril





I don't like stains... Danish oil brings out the natural beauty and color of the grain, in this case riftsawn red oak





finish tables sitting in sun to dry... they will get a coat of lacquer and then they are ready to be delivered. From tree blowing down in a back yard to something useful that with care will still be here long after I'm dead and buried


----------



## dustytools

Those are some mighty fine looking tables Woodshop!!! You are a very gifted woodworker and I always love looking at your projects.


----------



## BobL

Sensational - thanks for sharing!


----------



## stonykill

nice Job!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## MJR

Nothing fancy, just a gravity feed water system to a crapper. My hunting land has no electricity. The framing was done in Norway spruce and the boards are eastern white cedar (small boards that almost went into the firewood pile. Is it ethical to shot a deer while ... never mind.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u54/MJR007/IMG_1587.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u54/MJR007/IMG_1590.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u54/MJR007/IMG_1588.jpg


----------



## stonykill

MJR said:


> Is it ethical to shot a deer while ... never mind.



now thats funny! :jawdrop: 

nice job


----------



## woodshop

MJR said:


> ... Is it ethical to shot a deer while ...



...yes it is, and nice job on the construction from (almost) firewood boards.


----------



## treeless

*Bench from milled redcedar driftwood log*

Here are a few pics of a yard bench that I made with lumber milled from a driftwood log. Here in the Aleutian Islands we have no standing timber, but lots of driftwood logs of all kinds. Just getting started with chainsaw milling. Would like to hear from anyone else who has been milling and building with beach salvage.

Alaskan Mill, AK Small-log mill, AK mini-mill
Stihl MS 460, Husky 266SE


----------



## irishcountry

Sweet projects thanks for the pics!! Thats some nice scenery from the islands too nice bench!!


----------



## stonykill

very nice. nice scenery too!


----------



## dustytools

Very nice bench, pretty scenery too. Welcome to AS.


----------



## BobL

treeless said:


> Here are a few pics of a yard bench that I made with lumber milled from a driftwood log. Here in the Aleutian Islands we have no standing timber, but lots of driftwood logs of all kinds.



Good looking bench you got there!  

I find it hard to imagine living in a place where there there were no standing trees and going to the beech to pick up Logs


----------



## woodshop

Nice looking rustic bench... it looks like it fits the scene behind it. Curious what kind of wood is it? Looks reddish... like some kind of cedar? Like Bob, I too would be hard pressed to live in an area without standing trees. Then again, I don't have your perspective. Nice scenery behind the bench there, but I'd want to turn that bench around to watch the ships coming in etc. 

Welcome to AS


----------



## treeless

woodshop said:


> Nice looking rustic bench... it looks like it fits the scene behind it. Curious what kind of wood is it? Looks reddish... like some kind of cedar? Like Bob, I too would be hard pressed to live in an area without standing trees. Then again, I don't have your perspective. Nice scenery behind the bench there, but I'd want to turn that bench around to watch the ships coming in etc.
> 
> Welcome to AS



Thanks for all of the comments and encouragement. It is nothing fancy, but I like the rough-sawn look and simple blocky framing. When we moved in to our house there were two similar benches left behind by the former owners. They were completely rotten and fell apart while we were moving things around and cleaning up. Those old ones were just made of regular non-weatherized untreated lumber. I just simply traced the pieces (some so rotten they were incomplete) onto a pine 1x6 and made a set of patterns, which I have kept. A good idea, because as soon as my mother-in-law saw it she wanted one too! 

Here in the Aleutians it can get very windy. So you can't leave ANYTHING out in the yard unless it is lashed down or so heavy that it won't budge. The bench is light enough that you can just pick it up and carry it to wherever you want to sit. The rest of the time it sits on the deck against the house! All these mountains and no trees anywhere does seem strange at first, but you get used to it. No matter where you are, you can see striking views in every direction. It is hard to get lost when you can see every detail of where you have been and where you are going!

The wood in the bench is western redcedar (Thuja plicata). We have LOTS of it on the beaches around here. It is very easy to identify on sight for me now as I drive the beach roads. We also get other types of very large cut timber that usually falls off from log freighters I would imagine. Fir maybe? I have not milled any of those yet.


----------



## MikeInParadise

Nothing Fancy but a Quick and dirty picture frame for a friend made out of some birch that I milled.


----------



## stonykill

nice. Birch is my favorite wood to mill and work with!


----------



## woodshop

Nice frame... but it looks much better than "quick and dirty" to me. Did you do that with one compound bit or did you do it using several bits different heights/angles? I too like working with birch, but not as much as oak/ash/redcedar/walnut. Birch tends to burn a little just like maple and cherry if my blades and bits are not super sharp. Sure gives a nice clean surface though, the kind you can get glass smooth if you finish it that far.


----------



## MikeInParadise

woodshop said:


> Nice frame... but it looks much better than "quick and dirty" to me. Did you do that with one compound bit or did you do it using several bits different heights/angles? I too like working with birch, but not as much as oak/ash/redcedar/walnut. Birch tends to burn a little just like maple and cherry if my blades and bits are not super sharp. Sure gives a nice clean surface though, the kind you can get glass smooth if you finish it that far.



Two different bits, 

Combo for the outside 





and a bead bit for the inside...







That only took about 30 minutes which I consider a quick and dirty as I did not sand or finish it. 

Also I just glued and shot a brad in the corners as opposed to a mini biscuit and I did not put on a backing...


----------



## woodshop

*What do I build with the wood I mill?...*





The first day of my biggest Christmas craft show of the year today was very successful in spite of the economy. I actually sold more product in one day today than I did in the entire history of my fledgling little business, which at this point is my 24th show in 4 years. Point of the post though, in keeping with this thread, is that every single wooden item you see here in my booth for sale started out like this...


----------



## Adkpk

The freakin' Woodshop store!:jawdrop: Good for you Dave. We are still lovin' the nut cracker and the cheese board which I used tonight. Great pics.


----------



## 046

WOW!!! thanks for sharing all..


----------



## dustytools

Very nice display Woodshop. Forgive me if you have already answered this question to me in the past but are the items on the right front side of your booth a curtain hanger-rod?


----------



## BobL

Just awesome WS! One question, who are the "3 sisters"?


----------



## woodshop

dustytools said:


> Very nice display Woodshop. Forgive me if you have already answered this question to me in the past but are the items on the right front side of your booth a curtain hanger-rod?


... good guess, and close. They are compression type quilt hangers. You unbolt that bar going across the front, put the hem or edge of your quilt behind the bar, and when you screw those wooden nuts back on it pinches your quilt behind that bar and holds it there, displaying it on your wall. Obviously I sell a lot of them at quilt shows, but even standard craft shows like this they move. I make them in three sizes, to fit up to 26" ($22), hold up to 36" ($29) and up to 48" wide quilts or remnants of quilts ($49). I made 18, mostly oak and cherry for this show and sold 11 of those today. Might sell a few more tomorrow although Sunday of a two day show is usually a slower day than the Sat. 

Bobl I named my woodshop after my three daughters who used to come down to my shop and watch me work wood when they were younger. Now that they are older (17, 22 and 24) of course they don't do that any more, but the name stuck and thus that is what I call my little business... thus my DBI (doing business as) and EIN (employer ID number) officially are Three Sisters Woodshop for tax purposes etc.


----------



## zopi

Nice! I like the quilt hangers...i know some people who may receive something 
similar soon...

About the only thing I have built with my wood is my woodshop..and it isn't really complete..at least my tools are out of the weather.


----------



## stonykill

nice woodshop. Boy you sell your stuff cheap. You remind me of my grandfather with his pricing. 

I noticed the same thing this holiday season. Right after the economy started going seriously south, I got a bunch of orders. I think people are looking for handmade meaningful gifts this year, and not the wallyworld garbage.


----------



## Zodiac45

Very impressive Dave!  Inspiring too.


----------



## woodshop

stonykill said:


> ... Boy you sell your stuff cheap. You remind me of my grandfather with his pricing.



Well I don't know how cheap your grandfather priced his work, but I price my work based roughly on how long it takes me to make it. I have a base of $25-30/hr. If it takes me an hour to make something, I charge minimum between 25 and 30 bucks. If I can get a piece down to say 15 minutes per by doing a run of 30 at a time using jigs I've built for it, I charge a minimum of say $7. Sure I price it higher if I think I can sell enough of them at that higher price. However, I found that unless it's a high-end juried show where people are prepared to pay big bucks for Cadillac quality, keeping the prices on the low side of that base/hr I find that I make more money in the long run than if I raised prices and sold less. Money in my pocket driving home from the show is what drives that decision. So far it has been paying off. I keep the quality (sanding, fit and finish) as high as I can for that price that is as low as I can and still make that $30 an hour working the wood. Not only are more people happy, but I have more money in my pocket at the end of the show. At high end juried shows not only CAN I raise prices and get them, I often HAVE to do so because the table fees for those shows are so high. If I'm paying $500 for a 10 foot booth, I want to be going home with a couple thousand bucks in my pocket. 

Any woodworker that sells product will tell you it's always a compromise however. I can spend an extra 15-20 minutes putting on a perfect flawless French polish finish on that wooden nutcracker I sell, but then I couldn't sell it for $7. Most people either don't know the diff, or aren't willing to pay for that. So it gets sanded to 180-220, gets a coat of Danish oil, and when dry couple coats of lacquer. Still looks nice, and didn't take me all evening. Sure if I make a special one for a friend or family, it gets the royal treatment because time is not an issue.


----------



## Marklambert61

*Black Walnut hall tables*

Team,

Here is a few pic's of some Black Walnut hall tables I made as Christmas gifts.

I made a total of 3 tables its a good feeling to see them from log to finish product.

Mark

View attachment 84791


View attachment 84792


View attachment 84793


View attachment 84794


----------



## stonykill

nice job! Merry Christmas!


----------



## dustytools

Very nice tables!! I love the look of Walnut furniture.


----------



## slabmaster

Nice looking tables! Great looking walnut also.Some one will be lucky to get those.Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays To you and your family.


----------



## Marklambert61

*Merry Christmas*



slabmaster said:


> Nice looking tables! Great looking walnut also.Some one will be lucky to get those.Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays To you and your family.



Thanks Slabmaster all the best to your family also merry christmas...

Mark


----------



## AndyR

*1st Walnut bowl*

I like this thread and thought I'd bump it back up to the top with a pic of a bowl I turned from the walnut tree I milled last year. I not really that much into turning but it's nice to have the option when you want to + winters are pretty cold and long here!


----------



## stonykill

Nice!

Yeah it's my favorite thread, glad I started it.

I just build this out of scraps of spalted and wormy maple. Plays like butta. Best one I've built so far.


----------



## BobL

Nice one stonyk. I'd slap ya with a greenie but I'm all out!


----------



## dustytools

Awesome job on the Guitar Stonykill!!!


----------



## dustytools

AndyR said:


> I like this thread and thought I'd bump it back up to the top with a pic of a bowl I turned from the walnut tree I milled last year. I not really that much into turning but it's nice to have the option when you want to + winters are pretty cold and long here!



Nice bowl Andy!! Here is one that I recently roughed out of some Box Elder. View attachment 106461


----------



## billstuewe

Another Agent in my office wanted a coffee table and came up with this design. I have no maple in my part of the country (bet you can't tell were) so he bought the maple and I milled the walnut and the pecan.
Bill


----------



## Backwoods

Good to see that others are working on there projects as well. This is one of my latest projects, just something I thru together while sharpening saws one day. Now I have orders for several more. I will add a wider base to the rest of them.I turned the halter racks using a new chuck that I got for the lathe. It is made from a mix of English walnut and Black walnut.


----------



## stonykill

nice work Bill and Backwoods!


----------



## glennschumann

*Finally*

Seems this thread made it down about 5 pages, so bumping it up coincided nicely with my final glue up of a bench...

Finally, after milling lots of wood for myself and lots more for friends, I have gotten to “finish” a project of my own with wood I actually cut myself. Now, there is a bit of history here, literally, as I cut this wood about 7 years ago… It was an elm tree that grew in the yard of my sister and BIL’s first house. I was just going to cut it down for them, but when I mentioned that I could make something out of it, they were fairly excited. Fortunately, they are patient. The tree was about 6” dbh.. not much to mill. I cut it off about head height, and halved the remaining trunk before I cut it off the stump. Much easier to cut a skinny log when still attached to the roots. The saw of choice… Dad’s $50 024 find. Good saw, but I’ve since graduated to 066’s and a 3120xp waiting for its first job. Better millers indeed.

After I brought it home, I used a Homelite XL gift from a friend who’s grandfather used it to heat his house well into his 90’s. A million miles on it, but it still runs. All of this cutting was freehanded with non-ripping chains. Gotta start somewhere.

The top of the bench was made of the two largest boards. They were about 8” on one end, and about 5” on the other. I had to joint them, and glue them together to get a board just over 12” wide that I later trimmed. You can see the diagonal joint in the coloring of the wood on the bottom of the bench seat. 

This project is where I learned that Elm is a troublesome wood to work. With very sharp hand planes, I was able to plane it OK, but I did use a hand scraper to clean up a bit. The bottom of the seat shows tear out… this was from a 12” power planer with brand new blades, and very light cuts.

I made a half scale proto type after I decided on a design. This was really helpful to clear up a few details and proportions. Just scrap pine and hot glue, but worth every penny and minute. I also made some practice joints to see if I needed to adjust the taper of the wedges holding the pieces together. Although I made the flares in the mortises at 8 degrees, I discovered that a wedge of 10 degrees worked best. 8 left the joint loose, and 12 didn’t allow it to be driven all the way in.

I was careful to choose the grain of the wood for the legs and stretchers carefully… I ended up cutting up lots of wood to get them out, without knots.

The most challenging (self imposed) was the joint I used to connect the legs to the bench, and the stretcher between the legs. It is what I would call a fully blind dovetail, or a hidden wedged joint. Like a mortise and tennon joint, there is a blind hole, but it flares out as you cut into the board at 8 degrees. The tennon is then slotted and wedges are put in before it is pressed together. Better get it right, or you don’t get it apart, even without glue. Not that I wanted to make any part of this easier, the legs taper from a rectangular shape to a rectangular shape turned 90 degrees at the other end. I hope you can see that from the picture. The legs are then set in the bench seat flared out in two directions too. In order to get everything together, I had to have the legs have their mortise perpendicular to the bench bottom so the leg assembly would slide into the bench bottom. I spent LOTS of time getting the connecting parts to fit, and I didn’t really know if it was going to work until I finally put it together because I couldn’t test fit the parts without wedging it together. The long stretcher had just a wedged mortise at either end, and will be trimmed once the glue is dry. The long stretcher was also fun to make - it is short and wide at either end, and tall and skinny in the middle. If you wedge it on your work bench and squeeze with the vise to get it to bend, you can still plane the concave surface when it is bent “flat” if you put a little support under the middle.. Kinda discovered that by accident.

There were really few right angles on this piece, but I think it turned out OK given my novice skills. One of the joints on the bottom of the seat didn’t slide all the way home (about 1/16” off) but unless you are under the bench, you won’t see it. Two of the joints between the legs and stretchers had a bit of play before the glue dried, but their geometry will prevent them from coming apart if the glue does give way. 

None the less, I think my sister will enjoy it, and I cannot wait to get a picture of my little niece on it.

P.S. By the way, does anybody know anything about planes made by the “Metallic Plane Company” That is the one I have…it has an adjustable mouth, corrugated bottom, and unique lever depth adjustment for the blade. It is about the size of a Stanley #3… just curious if anybody knows any more about this $14 rummage sale find… it works well. The picture of my glue bottle with the plane shaving is purely self centered bragging about my lucky sharpening job.


----------



## glennschumann

*More photos...*


----------



## glennschumann

*Even more photos...*


----------



## glennschumann

*Last photos of the bench...*

Closing out the 3 posts above, I finally finished the bench (tung oil) and with the fumes of the last coat still floating around in my head, I post these picts for your entertainment. I chamfered the edges of the seat about 1/8" and the legs and stretchers about 1/16" and that really cleaned up the look. I'm quite happy with the design, even thought the seat slab is not the ideal board... but it still carries the memory and history of the family.

I've decided that the shape of the legs worked better than I thought it ever would. They don't seem too heavy from any direction, but from either front or side, they seem to have a strong "thigh" or "foot" lending a stable look, but not too heavy from any one direction.

The joinery isn't perfect, but I'm not either.

Hope you enjoy, keep working and post more of your work soon to inspire us all.

Mill safe,

Schumann

P.S. Anybody know anything about that hand plane I have? Thanks!


----------



## stipes

*Looks great!!!!*



glennschumann said:


> Closing out the 3 posts above, I finally finished the bench (tung oil) and with the fumes of the last coat still floating around in my head, I post these picts for your entertainment. I chamfered the edges of the seat about 1/8" and the legs and stretchers about 1/16" and that really cleaned up the look. I'm quite happy with the design, even thought the seat slab is not the ideal board... but it still carries the memory and history of the family.
> 
> I've decided that the shape of the legs worked better than I thought it ever would. They don't seem too heavy from any direction, but from either front or side, they seem to have a strong "thigh" or "foot" lending a stable look, but not too heavy from any one direction.
> 
> The joinery isn't perfect, but I'm not either.
> 
> Hope you enjoy, keep working and post more of your work soon to inspire us all.
> 
> Mill safe,
> 
> Schumann
> 
> P.S. Anybody know anything about that hand plane I have? Thanks!


----------



## stonykill

nice work!


----------



## BobL

Glen, I love the way that cross rail is tapered and flared like that - it just adds that little something that makes that piece.


----------



## 820wards

stonykill said:


> Nice!
> 
> Yeah it's my favorite thread, glad I started it.
> 
> I just build this out of scraps of spalted and wormy maple. Plays like butta. Best one I've built so far.



Stonykill,

Showed the lead guitar player in my band the picture of your Strat Duplo and now he wants to build one from wood I will be milling this season. Just finished my mill today and only need to have the two chains made up for it and it will be ready to fire up. Going hunting next week so it will have to wait until I get back.

jerry-


----------



## stonykill

very cool Jerry. When the wood is dry enough, contact me>>>>Tom


----------



## Brmorgan

*Some handmade hand tools*

I've been working a lot down in the basement over the last few days - mostly cleanup, organizing, fixing broken stuff, and working on a couple major non-wooden projects. I had an extra hour or so to kill this evening though, so I decided to throw one of my small pieces of "special" Birch on the lathe to make this:











I used a small (4" dia.) spalted Birch crotch piece that I'd had kicking around for three years or so. It had cracked in from the ends such that this was about all I could get out of it anyway. The handle is about 2" dia. and was turned from the exact center of the crotch, with the top of the handle being towards the actual "V" part of the crotch; this is why the grain quilting appears to fan out along with the mushroom shape of the handle. The spalted areas are still nice and hard too; I salvaged this piece at just the right time. I got the brass ferrule from a hose repair shop while on my roadtrip down south a few days ago. I've had a hard time tracking them down locally - the few I had I snagged from the sawmill I worked at. They're pretty cheap, like 50¢ apiece, so I got half a dozen of a few various sizes. The awl itself is an worn-out 5/32" chainsaw file, ground smooth and to a point. I left the "teeth" of the file on the section that went inside the handle - this allowed it to almost thread in and together with some CA glue is holding really tight. Overall I'm really happy with the way this one turned out (no pun intended). These pics were taken after only one coat of Polyurethane, so I still need to sand and re-coat a couple times to get a really nice hard finish.

I also made this file handle a couple weeks ago:






Still spalted Birch, but not really figured wood. I gave this one to my cousin along with my Husky 50 to use for the winter.


----------



## Gene DiNardo

Here's a few Walnut planks I threw together.
I don''t post much, I just stuck this on as a reply to the last post in the thread.
Hope that's OK.
Gene


----------



## mtngun

Gene DiNardo said:


> Here's a few Walnut planks I threw together.
> I don''t post much, I just stuck this on as a reply to the last post in the thread.
> Hope that's OK.
> Gene


Nice planks.


----------



## Backwoods

Absolutely gorgeous!!!
What I would like to see is the shop that you used to build it. 
I do not have the space to even begin a project like that.
Much less the time. I do however have a nice stack of black walnut that could do a project like that justice. That would be an enjoyable project to undertake.


----------



## Brmorgan

Wow. Part of me would love to undertake something like that, but another part of me (the rational one) knows I wouldn't have the patience OR skill needed to do it justice right now. Someday.

How many hours do you think you have invested in that? I've read of other projects like it in magazines that took people literally years to build on the side, but I'm not sure how long it would take if that was a guy's dayjob.


----------



## stonykill

gene, that is simply stunning. Fantastic work!


----------



## irishcountry

Holy crap some serious talent on this forum!!! Great job everyone!! Stoney really like that guitar I play myself and would love to get my hands on that for a gig!! HA HA Awesome!


----------



## stonykill

irishcountry said:


> Holy crap some serious talent on this forum!!! Great job everyone!! Stoney really like that guitar I play myself and would love to get my hands on that for a gig!! HA HA Awesome!



everything is for sale....... thanks!


----------



## Gene DiNardo

Thanks, you guys.
Your right, there is some serious talent on this forum.
I am constantly impressed with the ingenuity, creativity, and talent
shown here.
Stony... a master of the Country Form, even expresses it in his guitars, BobL a milling Monster and a maker of heirloom tools, Woodshop an all around Craftsman and so many others....too many to mention.
But the best thing is, and what makes this place unique is,
we do it ALL with wood we have taken from tree to finished product.
Few craftsmen actually do that.
Backwood, I probably have a couple hundred hours in this secretary, an
hour here, a half hour there, plus other projects usually going at the same time.
As for my shop, it's only a hobbie shop in my basement. I have to build projects like that in sections and assemble them up in my living room (I have a very understanding wife).
I have the usual woodworking tools, Tablesaw, 6" jointer,14" bandsaw,router, etc.
The one big tool I do have is a 20" planer. but then again I get 15-16" boards for free. Ha ha.
I have a pretty good collection of hand tools. I'm self taught, do not work from plans, I just take my time and have fun.
It's really just a matter of breaking it down int small sub projects and then 
just sawing and chiseling to a line.
I say Put that walnut to good use and be ambitious, strechig yourself is how you grow.

Here is a couple of shots of my humble shop.
Gene


----------



## stonykill

nice little shop Gene. 

I work out of a small shop. 12 x 24. only heat a 12 x 12 portion from december to spring. Less hand tools than you, way less. 25 year old unisaw, drill press, lathe, 14 inch bandsaw, stationary belt sander, 13 inch planer,and the usual array of hand held power tools. And my shop is NEVER as clean as yours. 

It is also full of handmade jigs and templates for guitars. Piles of them. The guitar business seems to be going better than the furniture business this year.


----------



## Brmorgan

That's one of the more impressive _working_ hand tool/plane/chisel collections I've seen in a while! I really like those Purpleheart chisel handles in the last pic, or at least that's what they look like from this end. I also really like the low-angle smoothing plane that's a couple shelves up and to the right, directly above the long-handled mallet in the foreground of the same shot. I've been trying to find a good used one of those for a while now; my hypothesis is that they're all made of Iron-clad solid gold, or at least prices would lead one to believe that! Same goes for a good scraper plane.

I love collecting and even sometimes using old hand tools, but in my hands they're nowhere near as accurate as power tools in most cases, so they usually sit on the shelf until I find myself really needing to use one where a power tool just won't work.


----------



## Rftreeman

Gene that is a very nice piece you made, did you make it for yourself or to sell, if to sell what's something like that go for?


----------



## BobL

Great lookin shop Gene plus by the look of it you have some real nice tools too.
Not to mention the few planks of walnut - Awesome
Thanks for Sharing.


----------



## Backwoods

Some great pieces are coming out of some nice hobby shops. I keep telling my wife that I am not done collecting tools. As for the dust free environment, it must be nice. I have a pile under the table saw that is starting to reach a critical point, and the bin for the planner shavings is starting to over flow. I was at one of the kids basket ball games today and pulled out a couple pieces and sanded them while I was there. I should finish all of the Christmas stuff up by the end of January. Then comes the birthday season.


----------



## Mike Van

I just finished these walnut cabinets for the old tin robots I collect.



The walnut came from my bandmill, all air dried.



The cabinets are just over 4 ft tall, 14" wide. Small 6 watt light strips under the top & wood shelf. The other shelves are 1/4" glass.


----------



## timberwolf

Little project from some cherry and white oak I milled a few years ago and set to dry.

Its a Bohdran or Irish frame drum. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodhr%C3%A1n
I'm still thinking on doing some chip carving on the rim.


----------



## Andrew96

It's not 100% of my milled cherry, I used some kiln dried stuff for the wheel rim. If I'm bending the rules here I'm sorry but milling is one thing...I still need kiln dried material for wooden machines to run true. Since we are now showing off our 'real' work. Check this out.
This is a fully functional 30" diameter wheel. A bit more lathe work than hand tools. I make quite a few different models. Big ones, little ones, double wheel ones...


----------



## billstuewe

Nice Wheel Andrew! A neighbor of mine is into spinning--actually she has a couple of angora goats--sheers them, cleans the mohair, spins it into yarn, uses onion skins or little bugs off cactus (cochineal) to make dye and dyes the yarn, weaves it on her loom. She came to me wanting help to make a loom bench and with minor assistance from her (she did all the finishing) we made this:






Then she came wanting to make a swift. She got the wood from me and did all the turning, but I did the routerwork and tablesaw work, she assembled and finished it. Over the years she has become much more independent and a very good woodworker (So I guess, in the process, I also helped make this other woodworker)


----------



## rarefish383

820wards said:


> Stonykill,
> 
> Showed the lead guitar player in my band the picture of your Strat Duplo and now he wants to build one from wood I will be milling this season. Just finished my mill today and only need to have the two chains made up for it and it will be ready to fire up. Going hunting next week so it will have to wait until I get back.
> 
> jerry-



Have you ever used Sassafras for instument making. I don't know how it would work on an electric. I have a little mandolin made out of Sassafras and it has the most melow, soft sound. I bought it at a craft show in Ohio bout 25years ago. Unfortunatly I can't play or tune it, so it just hangs on the wall looking nice, Joe.


----------



## timberwolf

Interesting on the sassafras, I have an older round back mandolin looks to have a beech sides and back and spruce top, not mellow, but not to harsh. Hope to get a mandolin build finished this winter, using curly mape back and sides with doug fir top, I expect that combo will be on the bright end of the spectrum.

Mandolin is pretty easy to learn, C-D-G chords are all two finger easy, so from there easy to bang away on 100s of songs.


----------



## stonykill

rarefish383 said:


> Have you ever used Sassafras for instument making. I don't know how it would work on an electric. I have a little mandolin made out of Sassafras and it has the most melow, soft sound. I bought it at a craft show in Ohio bout 25years ago. Unfortunatly I can't play or tune it, so it just hangs on the wall looking nice, Joe.



I'm an electric guitar guy. Never owned an acoustic, or even wanted too. Not familiar with sassafras, so I'm not sure how it would work. I don't have any sassafras to even sample. 

I need to mill a bunch of ash to dry out. I've been getting a lot of requests for ash.


----------



## Andrew96

billstuewe said:


> Over the years she has become much more independent and a very good woodworker (So I guess, in the process, I also helped make this other woodworker)



Nice job on the bench..and the woodworker. There doesn't seem to be too many people giving woodworking a try. Rough carpentry yes (let's build a deck!!). If you cannot buy it in walmart of Ikea....there is no way to get it, forget making it. Glad to see you got someone else on their way into the world of woodworking. I haven't managed to do that yet.


----------



## ROOTSXROCKS

Tried my hand at some book matching this summer with a small project designed to hold coffee cartridges. Made from a single pair of boards.


----------



## FJH

*nails vers staples*

I got aquestion for you guys!
im building a home with my wood (doug fir framing!)
What Best would you reccomend for installing the exterior sheathing (osb)
Nails? or staples Or does it matter I have availible to me a stapler I have a spiker but have nothing to drive smaller nails other than by hand and don't want to go there!So should I invest in a smaller gun to drive smaller nails?

Opinons please!


----------



## stonykill

FJH said:


> I got aquestion for you guys!
> im building a home with my wood (doug fir framing!)
> What Best would you reccomend for installing the exterior sheathing (osb)
> Nails? or staples Or does it matter I have availible to me a stapler I have a spiker but have nothing to drive smaller nails other than by hand and don't want to go there!So should I invest in a smaller gun to drive smaller nails?
> 
> Opinons please!



I have a nailer, never use it. Nail, even framing by hand. Also, I personally don't like osb. I always use ply.


----------



## FJH

stonykill said:


> I have a nailer, never use it. Nail, even framing by hand. Also, I personally don't like osb. I always use ply.



I don't either but 4 bucks a sheet more than 3/8 ply I only got to worry for 30 more years or so!I got athrtis in my wrists air nailing is a must!


----------



## stonykill

FJH said:


> I don't either but 4 bucks a sheet more than 3/8 ply I only got to worry for 30 more years or so!I got athrtis in my wrists air nailing is a must!



the osb a crappy builder put on my addition, the roof no less, only lasted 10 years. I redid it myself right.

Sounds like you need a nailer.


----------



## mtngun

FJH said:


> I got aquestion for you guys!
> im building a home with my wood (doug fir framing!)
> What Best would you reccomend for installing the exterior sheathing (osb)
> Nails? or staples Or does it matter I have availible to me a stapler I have a spiker but have nothing to drive smaller nails other than by hand and don't want to go there!So should I invest in a smaller gun to drive smaller nails?


I like galvanized ring shank nails because they hold better -- but you said you didn't want to nail by hand. 

You could probably get away with long staples, if the staples are OK with the local inspector. I'd favor galvanized if they are available.


----------



## huskyhank

*Nailing?*

You want one of these -

http://www.paslode.com/fuel-powered-nailers/cf325/

And some of their ring shank nails for your sheathing.
And the 3.25" coated nails for framing.

You'll never go back.


----------



## Brmorgan

huskyhank said:


> You want one of these -
> 
> http://www.paslode.com/fuel-powered-nailers/cf325/



Yeah, don't we all...

I'm not 100% sold on the "cordless" nailers yet. I mean, I love the convenience and weight, but don't like the reliance on and extra cost of the proprietary cells.


----------



## huskyhank

Brmorgan said:


> Yeah, don't we all...
> 
> I'm not 100% sold on the "cordless" nailers yet. I mean, I love the convenience and weight, but don't like the reliance on and extra cost of the proprietary cells.



Been using them for 5-6 years.
One of the best things I've ever bought.


----------



## Brmorgan

Oh believe me, I'm not putting them down by any means. Those are just a couple steps up from my affordability range to begin with, and on top of that there's the continual cost of the fuel cells. I don't mind dragging an air hose around for the cost difference (for now!). Now, if I could refill the cells myself, then that would be something to really look into. But, for the amount of framing etc. I do, my $100 Campbell-Hausfeld cheapo will do for now.


----------



## redprospector

Here's a few pic's of one of the bathrooms in our "never ending remodel".

There will be a claw foot tub on that back wall.





Detail of cap on wainscot.





Right down to the linnen cabinet, and trim.





This was all done from Sugar Pine that had layed in the log for a couple of years. I like the "blue" in it. I like to call this style finished rustic. 

Andy


----------



## stonykill

nice Red, my taste exactly....


----------



## Brmorgan

Nice work! Your bathroom has a very similar "feel" to one that my Uncle re-did with a lot of wood in his house a few years back. I love the blue stain too; it seems to be an acquired taste though as you'll find someone who hates it for every person that loves it. It is indeed great for a rustic feel and in my (limited) experience is best with clear finishes. Stains and even some tinted "yellow" oils tend to have really unpredictable results with it. At least in the Lodgepole pine up this way anyway; your results may differ.


----------



## redprospector

This will just have a clear coat on it. I have used a real thin white wash, and then a clear coat that turned out pretty nice.

Andy


----------



## jkupcha

Here is a walnut slab table I made from a slab Lester cut for me. Still have to make more permenant legs but that will need to wait till the workshop warms up!


----------



## ROOTSXROCKS

I kinda like the contrast with the present legs.


----------



## RVALUE

Would that be a parsons table?


----------



## Backwoods

*bus stop*

This corner behind the bus stop used to be the home of an old rotten ##### willow that I dug out many years ago. The pump house and brush on the other side of the fence is not mine. The area behind the gate has had a whole pile of sawdust from the mill and plenty of pig manure that has aged for a few years and sustains a healthy ground cover that I weedeated down before I got started and it should come back strong in the spring. The area under the bus stop will be closed in for another fort area for the boys. I used 6x6 Doug-fir for supports, 2x6 for the frame of the floor and 1x24 redwood boards for the floor. The walls are 2x4 framed with some 1x12 reclaimed d-fir barn siding boards and fresh cut d-fir edgings that were squared up on three sides at 6” are used for bats. The roof is 2x6 frame with 1x12-13 for sheeting with tin on top. I still have to skirt it, build four benches two inside and two outside on the front porch, build a step, and spread some fresh gravel. Then I can start on the trap door, the backpack hooks, shelves, ect……..


----------



## Backwoods

The kids and I were able to get the four benches built for the bus stop before it was time for them to head back to school.


----------



## Backwoods

The shelf is made from Madrone. 




Both horse barns are made from figured maple.




There are 34 fence sections to build a working horse farm that 
store in the top shelf. The farm comes with 12 horses as well. 




One extra animal to contain on the farm.
As a side note the trim on the cabinet in the back ground is Madrone from the same tree as well.


----------



## DRB

Nice figured maple.

Madrone is that the same as Arbutis?


----------



## TraditionalTool

flht01 said:


>


Is that the LM-1 ????

If so, can you tell me what the height of the carriage is? (to the bottom of the frame, I wouldn't mount it on a trailer option)


----------



## Backwoods

Yes, that would be Arbutus. It grows locally and is highly sought after for firewood because of the BTU that it produces and the low volume of ash that results. Damage to the tree will give the wood the darker red color. Drying Madrone can be a challenge, a vacuum kiln is needed to prevent cell collapse during drying. It makes for a beautiful floor with the dark reds and light pink colors evenly dispersed.


----------



## DRB

Ok. I have never heard of it called Madrone before. I always wondered what it looked like as lumber. It only grows in this province along the rocky shoreline on the south coast. Looks like it would be hard to get straight logs of any length.


----------



## 820wards

Backwoods said:


> Yes, that would be Arbutus. It grows locally and is highly sought after for firewood because of the BTU that it produces and the low volume of ash that results. Damage to the tree will give the wood the darker red color. Drying Madrone can be a challenge, a vacuum kiln is needed to prevent cell collapse during drying. It makes for a beautiful floor with the dark reds and light pink colors evenly dispersed.



Backwoods,

Madrone is a pretty wood. About three years ago a friend of mine had a 30"+ Madrone tree go down from an Oak tree falling on it. At that time I wasn't into milling so it got cut up for fire wood. 

I was just talking to my Dad, the retire engineer, and he was telling me how to make a vacuum de-humidifier for wood. Have you done this process? 

The wood does burn hot and I can go three nights of burning before I need to remove any ash. 

I'll have to take a piece of the wood and try making something with it.

jerry-


----------



## Backwoods

Most Madrone logs are best suited for firewood but when you find a nice big straight one mill it up. It is a real nice wood to work and requires very little sanding to produce a nice finish.


----------



## BobL

Backwoods said:


> Both horse barns are made from figured maple.
> There are 34 fence sections to build a working horse farm that
> store in the top shelf. The farm comes with 12 horses as well.
> One extra animal to contain on the farm.



That horse farm would have been my wifes dream as a girl!
I'd give you a greenie but I have to spread the lurve.
Nice wood too!


----------



## splitpost

*fence rails*

Milled up some boards a few weeks ago for this gate entrance at home,today was cool enough to get out and bolt some on and hang the gate ,its been up around 105F but today 96F much cooler might get some more milling done tommorrow ,got another 12 boards to put up before this jobs done


----------



## stonykill

looking good. We are -10 fairenheit this morning.....


----------



## splitpost

:jawdrop:Brrrrrrrr,to cold for me


----------



## spudzone

*Wisconsin Birch*

Usually Just a lurker here, but I milled some paper birch off our woods last May into live edge slabs for railing spindles around our open staircase. They also made a nice swinging gate to keep our 2 year old from launching down the stairs. The posts were partially 4-sided with my chainsaw and then smoothed with a drawknife. All the milling was done with my 357 with 18" bar and .325 95VP Oregon chain (narrow kerf). I didn't try a real ripping chain, and the 95VP was a much cleaner cutter than 3 or so other chains I tried. The mill is a small Granberg. Fun project!

Great content here everyone! Keep it up.

BTW, you're all completely obsessed!

Cheers
Chris


----------



## spudzone

*a few more*

More of the finished project...


----------



## splitpost

nice looking wood ,thanks for the pics


----------



## stonykill

sweet spud. I love milling and building with birch.


----------



## Eddie39

Having looked through this thread I'm amazed by the high level of craftsmanship that there is, i only wish that id half the skills that alot of you have .Truly amazing work that's all i can say...


----------



## spudzone

stonykill said:


> sweet spud. I love milling and building with birch.



I think it's one of the nicest woods to work with- not too hard, not to soft, really easy on tools, and beautiful to boot. A long term drought and bug infestations are taking their toll or our older ones though. Tough to see 'em all dieing.

Chris


----------



## 00juice

*1st project from my milled lumber*

This is a table that I am working on for a friend. It is built from lumber that I have milled with my 066 about 3 years ago. It has a honey locust top, and hickory legs. It is almost done, still needs the "tung oil finish".


----------



## gr8scott72

00juice said:


> This is a table that I am working on for a friend. It is built from lumber that I have milled with my 066 about 3 years ago. It has a honey locust top, and hickory legs. It is almost done, still needs the "tung oil finish".



Love those legs. More pictures of them please.


----------



## 00juice

I have already given the table away, and didn't take any more pictures. I'll try to see if I can get some more pics, but it won't be soon. Here's a link to the honey locust while it was being milled.
http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=46402
-00juice


----------



## tomtrees58




----------



## tomtrees58

its all red oak tom trees


----------



## tomtrees58




----------



## tomtrees58




----------



## tomtrees58




----------



## tomtrees58




----------



## tomtrees58




----------



## tomtrees58




----------



## tomtrees58




----------



## tomtrees58




----------



## tomtrees58




----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

*Latest project*

I built this table for my brother just before Christmas.


----------



## gr8scott72

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> I built this table for my brother just before Christmas.



Nice! How big is that? Looks pretty big.


----------



## stipes

*Nice building Tom!!!*



tomtrees58 said:


>



Someday I'm gonna try that myself.....


----------



## stipes

*Looks great!!!!*



aggiewoodbutchr said:


> I built this table for my brother just before Christmas.



This is a dumb question and forgive me for askin,,,but what finish do you use to keep the bark from breaking,,peeling off??? Poly????


----------



## Can8ianTimber

gr8scott72 said:


> Nice! How big is that? Looks pretty big.



That is pretty cool. I have never seen one where they left the bark on. my slabs usually have part of the bark fall off and then it looks funny to only have partial bark live edge.


----------



## aquan8tor

Aggie, that's a beauty of a table!! Sweet work! 

Well, I've never made a live edge table with bark on it, but I do make a lot of natural edge bowls with bark. Wish I had pics to share. I use a LOT of superglue. It comes in 16 or 32oz bottles marketed at woodturners. I like "starbond". Occasionally I don't really need it, if the tree is cut in the winter for example. The sap being down makes the bark fit "tighter" due to lower hydrostatic pressure in the trunk. in any case, the bark needs to be relatively porous for the superglue to soak in. Although it is the only glue that will stick to wet green wood, it needs repeat applications as the bark dries to ensure that it will stay attached. 

Just a word to the wise: cyanoacrylate glue (superglue) releases toxic fumes. I have a full face respirator for sanding dust, which comes in handy--it will really burn your eyes, and could give you permanent damage. Make sure you do it outside or in front of an exhaust fan. If you feel funny, GET OUTSIDE! Epoxy is just as toxic, but messier! I like the ease and speed of CA glue. Plus you can use accelerator and make it cure in a few seconds, no matter whether you use thin or thick viscosity.


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

Thanks for the compliments everyone.



gr8scott72 said:


> Nice! How big is that? Looks pretty big.



It's not all that big. 4 1/2 x 6 1/2 feet roughly.



stipes said:


> This is a dumb question and forgive me for askin,,,but what finish do you use to keep the bark from breaking,,peeling off??? Poly????



My brother actually finished this. I just built it for him. He used tung oil & wipe on poly.



Can8ianTimber said:


> That is pretty cool. I have never seen one where they left the bark on. my slabs usually have part of the bark fall off and then it looks funny to only have partial bark live edge.



This was knocked over in the winter and the bark is pretty well stuck but there is always a chance it will work loose over time with seasonal movement. As aquan8tor said, CA glue and epoxy will fix it if it does.


----------



## Daniel P.

Here is a link to our lodge, we milled all the beams out of cottonwood, the cabinets out of oak, some vanities out of walnut, insides of closets out of red cedar and the porches out of cedar. Built the whole place ourselves, my dad my mom and I. We bought the flooring, pine paneling, log cabin siding and wall studs, the rest was milled.

http://www.kansaswhitetailturkeyhunts.com/retreat.htm


----------



## mtngun

Daniel P., I especially like your cordwood bar.


----------



## irishcountry

Holy crap lots of nice projects guys!!! I second the cordwood bar nice touch!!


----------



## BobL

aquan8tor said:


> Just a word to the wise: cyanoacrylate glue (superglue) releases toxic fumes. I have a full face respirator for sanding dust, which comes in handy--it will really burn your eyes, and could give you permanent damage. Make sure you do it outside or in front of an exhaust fan. If you feel funny, GET OUTSIDE! Epoxy is just as toxic, but messier! I like the ease and speed of CA glue. Plus you can use accelerator and make it cure in a few seconds, no matter whether you use thin or thick viscosity.



About 10 years ago I came close to poisoning myself using epoxy 2 pack finish. I was finishing an Oregon benchtop and wearing plastic gloves but the brush kept dropping hairs which are impossible to pick up wearing plastic gloves. So I took my left hand glove off and use it to pick up the hairs. After about 15 minutes the tips of my fingers on both hands started to tingle and by the time I stopped my mouth had started to tingle and was feeling a bit nauseated so I knew something was wrong. 

I ran the local poisons centre and together we worked out - using the MSDS sheet for the product - that I was not going to die but and that someone should just watch me and take me to hospital if I started feeling worse. It was 11 pm at night and the only other person at home was my sleeping 16 year old son so I woke him up to tell him what was happening - he just went back to sleep! Anyway within an hour the tingling had gone and I was feeling OK.


----------



## irishcountry

Thats scary glad it went away!!!!


----------



## BobL

irishcountry said:


> Thats scary glad it went away!!!!



Yeah - I have experienced the same finger and mouth tingling (but not the accompanying nausea) twice before.

Once was when I was stupid enough to try foogo fish!!! Apparently that is normal and is why they do it? 

The other time was when I ate too much of this killer chinese chilli sauce - it also had bucket loads of corriander seeds in it so the sensation on the tongue was something like sucking on a lemon after having a 1000 small cuts made in your tongue.


----------



## Eddie39

WOW!!!! That's a really fine place you built sir ,rep for that ..!!!


----------



## tomtrees58

some red oak this week


----------



## tomtrees58




----------



## Eddie39

it certainly doesn't look like you have a shortage of hardwood in your area that's for sure


----------



## tomtrees58

Eddie39 said:


> it certainly doesn't look like you have a shortage of hardwood in your area that's for sure



all hardwood here not to much pine just oaks


----------



## Eddie39

your very lucky to have that much hardwood .some people have all the luck tom


----------



## tomtrees58

thanks the oaks here are 125 to 180' and some are 5 to 8' dba


----------



## tomtrees58

its the luck of the irish


----------



## Eddie39

Stop showing me photos of all that oak tom LOL
Bit ironic to they call the county i live in the broad leaf county as it used to be covered with oak trees people even used to wear an oak leaf on there coat on certain days of the year i would have liked to have seen that only problem being chainsaws wouldn't have been invented then


----------



## tomtrees58

Eddie39 said:


> Stop showing me photos of all that oak tom LOL love my oaks tom trees /duffy


----------



## MR4WD

What are the black marks towards the center, on the butt of that oak in front of that blazer? Bullet holes? Nails?

I just trashed a chain on black mark in a big douglas fir, but I'm not sure what made the mark.

Thanks,
Chad.


----------



## Eddie39

It could very well have been a round its amazing what you find inside trees at times but the marks could also be a reaction that oak takes when even the smallest amount of metal contacts it even metal dust would mark it like that.CHAD


----------



## BobL

Great looking wood TT.

It's too good looking for me not to point out the following 

Maybe it's just the photo but assuming the ends are cut reasonably square the cut looks a little twisted.


----------



## gr8scott72

BobL said:


> Great looking wood TT.
> 
> It's too good looking for me not to point out the following
> 
> Maybe it's just the photo but assuming the ends are cut reasonably square the cut looks a little twisted.



I noticed that right away too Bob but didn't say anything.


----------



## BobL

gr8scott72 said:


> I noticed that right away too Bob but didn't say anything.



It's not that I don't have slabs like that - I have more than I'd like from when I first started milling. Now I think I have that under control - or like to think so anyway 

While we're at it, and without picking on TT deliberately, here's something else I end up noticing in some peoples cuts as well. I called these the jaggies.






I get this too. I used to get a lot of this when I started out because the harder the wood the more common it is.





Eventually I worked out that it often arose from when I stopped and started cutting to put in wedges or reposition my stance. It also happens when the mill is see-sawed sideways down the cut. This effect is minimised by not see-sawing and using a lockable trigger and a log on a slope so the saw keeps cutting even when you take your hands away from the saw. On the flat I alternate by leaning on the mill with my arms and then knee/legs. If I do stop I ease back into the cut slowly and don't just fang it straight back into the cut on WOT.

OK - its nothing a thicknesser can't take out in 4/5 passes (well maybe 2/3 in your wood) but if you want less work it's not that hard to implement.


----------



## Daninvan

I am building this bookcase for my wife. The panels are elm that I harvested myself, the shelves will be veneered with veneer cut from the same log. The frame is of sapele, which I didn't harvest but which I did buy myself!






Also did this small cabinet last year for my sister. The body and door are maple, back panel is cherry and arbutus, drawer is crabapple, and knobs/consoles are kiawe, drawer bottom is cypress. The spalted maple on the door I bought, the rest I harvested and/or have some family connection for my sister and I.


----------



## BobL

Absolutely bewdiful!


----------



## mtngun

Nothing fancy or beautiful, but my milled wood sure came in handy yesterday.

Neighbor attempted to drive a loaded moving van across his un-graveled driveway/runway. Hit a soft spot and sunk like a rock, instantly high centering both axles. No emergency services up here, so ...





He tried to pull the van with his 4wd. The van wouldn't budge, and the 4wd spun its tires until it, too, was stuck.





I was able to pull his 4wd with my ancient woodhauler, but even with both of us pulling together, we still couldn't budge the van.

We had to unload the van where it sat, then jacked up each wheel, one at a time, and stuck one of my 2 1/8" x 16" x 12' doug fir slabs under each wheel. Naturally, we had to crawl around in the mud, and naturally, it started to rain. 

But once we had the truck on the slabs, it drove right out.





The slabs survived, only now they have some character marks. They'll eventually be edged for joists and rafters to build my barn/woodshed. Someday someone will notice the tire tracks on the boards and wonder how they got there, and I'll have a good story to tell.


----------



## Adkpk

Yep.


----------



## Backwoods

Soft spots and loads do not mix well. Now you can repurpose those boards.

This is the beginnings of my latest project. It is just a 16’x 16’ barn for the goat feed, hay, and a milking area. I will ad a 12’ loafing shed on the side after it is done.


----------



## Can8ianTimber

mtngun said:


> Nothing fancy or beautiful, but my milled wood sure came in handy yesterday.
> 
> Neighbor attempted to drive a loaded moving van across his un-graveled driveway/runway. Hit a soft spot and sunk like a rock, instantly high centering both axles. No emergency services up here, so ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He tried to pull the van with his 4wd. The van wouldn't budge, and the 4wd spun its tires until it, too, was stuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to pull his 4wd with my ancient woodhauler, but even with both of us pulling together, we still couldn't budge the van.
> 
> We had to unload the van where it sat, then jacked up each wheel, one at a time, and stuck one of my 2 1/8" x 16" x 12' doug fir slabs under each wheel. Naturally, we had to crawl around in the mud, and naturally, it started to rain.
> 
> But once we had the truck on the slabs, it drove right out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The slabs survived, only now they have some character marks. They'll eventually be edged for joists and rafters to build my barn/woodshed. Someday someone will notice the tire tracks on the boards and wonder how they got there, and I'll have a good story to tell.



Wow with friends like you how needs brains!! I am suprised they made it that far with the moving truck before they got stuck. Oh I hate that feeling in the pit of your gut when you know you are sinking.


----------



## BobL

mtngun said:


> .
> .
> .
> .
> 
> We had to unload the van where it sat, then jacked up each wheel, one at a time, and stuck one of my 2 1/8" x 16" x 12' doug fir slabs under each wheel. Naturally, we had to crawl around in the mud, and naturally, it started to rain.
> 
> But once we had the truck on the slabs, it drove right out.
> .



Great story - thanks for posting.


----------



## Brmorgan

Man oh man, would I have a hard time putting nice clean Doug Fir slabs down in the mud like that! But as you said, at least you have a great story (and pics to prove it!). I guess it never hurts to have some sturdy utility slabs around anyway, good for ramps etc.


----------



## jimdad07

Now that is one selfless guy, willing to sacrifice good wood for a bad choice made by someone else. Way to be a good neighbor.


----------



## jimdad07

Backwoods said:


> Soft spots and loads do not mix well. Now you can repurpose those boards.
> 
> This is the beginnings of my latest project. It is just a 16’x 16’ barn for the goat feed, hay, and a milking area. I will ad a 12’ loafing shed on the side after it is done.



I like the framing. Trying to find enough pine, hemlock and spruce logs around to build one about 20' x 28' for a new wood shop, will try to frame just like that. What are you using for floor boards?


----------



## Brmorgan

jimdad07 said:


> Now that is one selfless guy, willing to sacrifice good wood for a bad choice made by someone else. Way to be a good neighbor.



I'd send the pics with a bill to U-Haul asking why their truck was not properly outfitted for the task it was rented to perform! Ya never know...


----------



## Backwoods

jimdad07 said:


> I like the framing. Trying to find enough pine, hemlock and spruce logs around to build one about 20' x 28' for a new wood shop, will try to frame just like that. What are you using for floor boards?



I used green wood for a feed bin and lost a ton of grain due to the moister in the wood wicking into the grain allowing it to mold, so I have dry Doug-fir for the floor and joist since I will be putting hay in it as soon as it is finished.


----------



## 820wards

Dan,

Beautiful wood and beautiful workmanship!

jerry-


----------



## Backwoods

After getting all the loist in place I was able to get the floor down today with the help of the kids. Most of the floor is 1"x 12" 16' doug fir with minimal sap. there are a few 1"x10" in the mix as well.


----------



## mtngun

Backwoods said:


> Most of the floor is 1"x 12" 16' doug fir with minimal sap. there are a few 1"x10" in the mix as well.


Beautiful. 

What's the hole in the floor about ?


----------



## jimdad07

Backwoods said:


> After getting all the loist in place I was able to get the floor down today with the help of the kids. Most of the floor is 1"x 12" 16' doug fir with minimal sap. there are a few 1"x10" in the mix as well.



Very good work, looks like you could park a tank on that thing.


----------



## Backwoods

Well that hole in the floor is a bit smaller now that i finished framing in the door to the root cellar. 
"Sherman tank" ok, but an 88 may be a bit much.


----------



## Brmorgan

My buddy down near Vancouver is getting married this Sunday, so I'm heading down there tomorrow morning. Last night at about 7 PM he calls me and says, "Yeah, we were wondering if you could maybe cut us a big Douglas Fir cookie to set the cake on?"... Umm... Ok... Since I had to work a 10-hr shift today that didn't leave me much to work with, so I hauled a$$ out the trails on the quad as soon as I got home from work tonight. There are a couple big Fir logs down in the bush not too far away - the problem is that they've BEEN down for at least a couple years now. Both had significant sapwood rot near the butts, and were otherwise fairly checked up. Well, beggars can't be choosers with notice like this, so they'll have to live with some checking. The cake should hide most anyway. Here's what I ended up with after a little over an hour's work in the shop:





Sure, it looks pretty decent NOW, but I just hope it doesn't self-destruct before Sunday afternoon - it's not exactly dry despite the huge check, and will shrink quite a bit more I'm sure. So far I've given it two really good coats of water-based Polyurethane to try to seal it up as best I can without altering the color too much. I'll give it a third before I go to bed and let it sit overnight too. The other issue is whether it'll stay flat or not. It's a little over 3" thick, so it should be fairly stable. To flatten it, I first used the electric 3" handplane, followed by my big Stanley #6 handplane. Which was NOT designed for shooting tight Douglas Fir end grain! It gave a really nice, perfectly flat surface though after a lot of work. Then I used a Zirconium flap disc on the angle grinder to round the corner over and remove the cambium and punky outer couple layers of wood around the edge. Man can those discs remove material FAST! They don't last a long time with the resinous Fir wood though - they get all gummed up pretty quickly. After this I put the 220 grit on the 1/4 sheet sander to really smooth it down.

Not bad for two hours from being cut from the log. It's too bad they hadn't given me more notice, as I could have been a lot pickier about the piece of wood I chose, but oh well.


----------



## BobL

Looks good Brad. If it splits, just for the night I would fill up the splits with hard wax and polish.


----------



## luvsaws

very nice work in short time


----------



## mtngun

Remember when I was doing the speed tests on a pine cant, and I said I might use the boards for closet shelves ?

Finally made those closet shelves. Some of them are straight sided boards from the test cant, others are live edge slabs. 

Gave them a single coat of polyurethane, without any stain. I'm not sure if there is a stain to enhance blue stained pine ? Anyway, here are a couple of representative boards. 

Top board is blue/grey stained. It also has some brown water stains, because I left the log sitting out in the rain for a couple of years. Not sure if the pink streak is natural or from a chalk line that I sometimes use to snap a cut line ? 

Bottom board has lots of bug holes. If this were a paying job, I'd have to charge extra for the added character. You can't buy boards like these at the lumber yard. 





I tried to expose a live edge, whenever possible. Nothing fancy, just rustic and functional.


----------



## hdcoop72

*Closet Shelves*

Thanks for the pics.
Looks good and nice fit. Now to try and find a nice straight limb for the pole.


----------



## 7oaks

Brmorgan said:


>



It's beautiful Brad...


----------



## Brmorgan

7oaks said:


> It's beautiful Brad...



Thanks! I forgot, I took a picture of it in use last weekend. Here it is:






They were really happy with it and apologized profusely for waiting until the last minute. No biggie! I got to play with some saws and tools for something productive for friends... Win-win to me. I must admit I was a bit grumpier about it when i was trudging around in the bush in the pouring rain looking for a usable piece on Friday afternoon, but it had already been a bad day at work at the mill, so that didn't help either. It was worth it though.


----------



## Brmorgan

mtngun said:


> Gave them a single coat of polyurethane, without any stain. I'm not sure if there is a stain to enhance blue stained pine ? Anyway, here are a couple of representative boards.
> 
> Top board is blue/grey stained. It also has some brown water stains, because I left the log sitting out in the rain for a couple of years. Not sure if the pink streak is natural or from a chalk line that I sometimes use to snap a cut line ?
> 
> Bottom board has lots of bug holes. If this were a paying job, I'd have to charge extra for the added character. You can't buy boards like these at the lumber yard.



Yeah if you can find something that makes blue stain look better, or even so much as preserves its natural fresh-cut beauty, please let me know! Just about everything, even clearcoats like urethanes, makes it go a really drab grayish color, which is really unfortunate. I find Pine very tricky to stain in general because it doesn't like to take any kind of stain very evenly at all. It works out well for a more rustic or worn look though.

I'd say that bright pink is perfectly natural - once the trees die they're susceptible to any number of fungi, which each color the wood differently. Blue stain is caused by a fungus that feeds off the sap of the tree but leaves the wood fiber intact; heartwood stain-causing fungi tend to feed off the dead heartwood itself and eventually progress to rot. I've seen literally every color of the rainbow come across the grading tables at work in the Lodgepole boards. I've often wondered what the heck customers in, say, Boston would think when they pull a tarp off and see all these different colors and patterns in the lumber. 


Well, you _can_ find boards like that for sale... In 4/4, ask for some #5 Common and you'll see some really gnarly stuff allowed. It's such a crap grade that of what few mills remain that cut 1X, many largely only grade to #4 and zero anything worse. We've run #4 1X4 at the mill a couple times and even that can get pretty ugly - your grub/worm holes shown there would probably make it if they were that bad on one side but noticeably better on the other. With 1" common boards, you grade for the best side, and the reverse side can be one grade lower. I agree though, for utility use like shelving as you're using them for, the holes add some character. Floor joists would be another matter entirely...:monkey:


----------



## 7oaks

Wow Brad that turned out to be a wonderful collaboration!  A very creative cake on a very creative cake stand. Your effort was well worth it and, as you say, just using some of your equipment to produce something so beautiful gives you a warm and fuzzy feeling.


----------



## TraditionalTool

7oaks said:


> Wow Brad that turned out to be a wonderful collaboration!  A very creative cake on a very creative cake stand. Your effort was well worth it and, as you say, just using some of your equipment to produce something so beautiful gives you a warm and fuzzy feeling.


:agree2:

Job well done Brad!


----------



## redprospector

Brmorgan said:


> Yeah if you can find something that makes blue stain look better, or even so much as preserves its natural fresh-cut beauty, please let me know! Just about everything, even clearcoats like urethanes, makes it go a really drab grayish color, which is really unfortunate. I find Pine very tricky to stain in general because it doesn't like to take any kind of stain very evenly at all. It works out well for a more rustic or worn look though.



Brad,
I don't use a pigmented stain on pine for the reason you mentioned above. 
There is one thing that I've found that will work if you're willing to do it, and that is a hand rubbed wax finish. First it has to be sanded down to a minimum of about 220 grit. Then start waxing. 5 or 6 coats usually work well, but it takes an enormous amount of elbow grease.
Unfortunately, pine furniture won't command a price worthy of such an effort. So I only use this on furniture I make for the wife, and a few other family members.

Andy


----------



## 7oaks

redprospector said:


> Brad,
> a hand rubbed wax finish. First it has to be sanded down to a minimum of about 220 grit. Then start waxing. 5 or 6 coats usually work well, but it takes an enormous amount of elbow grease.
> 
> Andy



There is nothing like a wax finish for smoothness and preservation. Bee's wax was the wax of choice in millionaire's mansions a hundred years ago but, of course, back then they had slaves or other real cheap labor to do the work.


----------



## betterbuilt

This is a table I built with a blacksmith friend. We've been talking about doing this for years. The base isn't done yet but you get the idea. I'm kinda curious if any one can guess the species of the top. The strip running down the middle is Walnut. The finish is a natural plant based oil finish. We built the table for a local art show and the theme is a painter pallet.


----------



## stonykill

One of my recent guitar builds. Spalted Elm. Killer tone.


----------



## 820wards

stonykill said:


> One of my recent guitar builds. Spalted Elm. Killer tone.





I sent this picture to the lead guitar player in my band who also makes his own guitars. Nice job, nice wood.

Here is a picture of my maple Leedy drum kit I restored. I play it every week. I found a guy here in CA who makes complete drum kits from one maple log. He turns then on a lathe. They are really cool looking.

http://www.drummagazine.com/gear/post/jerry-alfaros-1964-leedy/

Thanks for posting.

jerry-


----------



## smokinj

stonykill said:


> One of my recent guitar builds. Spalted Elm. Killer tone.



Nice work heres some rep on an awesome job!


----------



## mtngun

24' x 36' barn/woodshed taking shape. 8x8 doug fir for sills and vertical posts. Loft and trusses will be stick-built 'cuz there's no way I'm going to wrestle with 300 pound timbers on the 2nd floor. It's hard enough to wrestle with them on the ground.





It's going pretty slow, because I'm new to this, and don't have all the right tools (corner chisel has been backordered from Bailey's for a month).

Note how slabs are used for temporary bracing.


----------



## SPM in King

*Silver Maple live edge table*

This is a Silver Maple dining table 8' long x ~48" wide. Two boards glued together. Base and butterflies are black walnut. The Maple was milled in January and kiln dried over the winter/spring. The big end was 44". Take a look at the thread for surfacing large slabs: "http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=144231" to see how it was flattened. 

Finish is Deftoil Marine Teakwood.

Steve.


----------



## mtngun

Impressive.


----------



## stonykill

mtngun said:


> Impressive.


wow, that is really nice...what he said......


----------



## huskyhank

SPM in King,

Great work!!

And thanks for the photos.


----------



## mtngun

Three more verticals today. Doesn't sound like much, but that's hard work. It's all I can do to lift up the post and set it in the mortise.


----------



## huskyhank

mtngun said:


> Three more verticals today. Doesn't sound like much, but that's hard work. It's all I can do to lift up the post and set it in the mortise.




Lookin' good!
You will have something to be proud of when you finished.


----------



## Sawyer Rob

*From A Log To A Bench*

Some time ago i brought a big load of logs home. The back trailor had some pretty nice logs on it, but the front trailor had mostly low grade logs and also some "shorts".

Anyway, i decided to mill one of the low grade logs into lumber to build some benches out of, and that's exactly what i did,






With the lumber milled out of the log, and such a beautiful day out, i moved my miter saw out of the shop. It was just too nice out to be cutting the lumber to the lengths i'd need for the bench, indoors! In the pict. on the right, you can see the material for one bench all cut out,






So i broke out my handi-dandy jig for building benches, and checked the fit of the pieces. The fit was good, so i put some good quality construction adhesive on the pieces.






With that done, i dug out a box of 16D nails that were left over from a building i built long ago, and predrilled and nailed the pieces together. I did use a 4" twist nail to hold the angled back piece into place, as the 4" spiral nail adds a bit of strength.






I made this bench 4' wide, and it was going up on the deck that's over my shop. I didn't want to have to lug it the 2-1/2 stories up the stairs, so i carried the two side pieces and the rest of the lumber up onto the deck in two loads, and finished it there.

First i put the bottom boards on, then on go the back boards, and very quickly the bench is all finished, right in place!






Now, my new bench is in a great place to look over my back garden, and food plots i planted for the animals. I also cut/rake/bale those plots and sell the grass hay that grows in them. You can see the hay all baled up,






"Turning a log into a bench" was a fun project, and that bench will be very useful and last a long time up on the deck!

SR


----------



## BobL

Nice work Rob.  I also using my WW machines outside - come to think of it I have two permanently on the back veranda


----------



## mrbentontoyou

mtngun said:


> Impressive.



nice looking work on the base, what type of joinery is going on there?




-Roger


----------



## deeker

Some spruce heading to Idaho. For a porch. More pics asap.

Kevin






Some not as concentirc as I like. But....gotta work with what you have.


----------



## Brmorgan

Well, I finally got my Ridgid bandsaw fixed after well over a year being busted; actually got a part from a local shop that carries General tools after noticing their saws were identical above the base/stand. Getting parts from HD/Ridgid is like pulling teeth, and everything comes from the US, so very pricey too - Ridgid wanted $35 just to SHIP a part that I can literally fit in my back pocket and that might weigh a pound and a half at best. $54 later, I have a new top wheel mount/tensioner/adjuster piece and have it all re-calibrated and tracking true again. Today I had a couple spare hours in the afternoon and decided to try a pattern I came up with a while ago on a small scrap of figured Birch that I've been keeping dry in the basement since my first milling season three years ago:





It's about 16" long by 10" wide. This is the "front" or good side and has only had two applications of mineral oil so far. The crotch grain soaks it up like a sponge, but is starting to keep its shine and color. Really nice crotch grain on this side. I wanted to get the main run of it perfectly centered, but there was just no way that was going to happen. The wood past the knot on the one edge was too soft to work with; as it was I had to harden a couple white spots on the more spalted backside with some CA glue to get a nice even sanded surface.






The color is more true to life in this picture; the first one is a bit on the orange side. The grain might not be quite as highly figured on the backside, though it is still quite nice and that side does have a bit more character with the spalting and pinworm holes. I filled and sealed the holes with CA glue as well. I just put a dab on them, let it tack up for a few seconds, and then fire up the random-orbit sander and it fills them in pretty well with fine dust. I also had to fill a fairly decent drying check in the knot on the edge. 

I had just been playing with a compass on graph paper when I came up with the pattern. I drew one big circle which defines the "ends" of the piece, and then drew another one about 2/3 the diameter of the first with the center offset by about a third of the first's diameter, and cut off the part of this circle that went outside the larger circle's diameter. I then used a flexible curve tool to draw the transition on one side, folded the pattern in half, and cut it out so it was perfectly symmetrical.

My mom really likes it, so it might not be staying around home here for very long. Wish I had a good supply of wood like this, because I can turn stuff like this out pretty quickly even with my mediocre-at-best tooling, and I'm sure I could sell some here and there. Big (<16" here is really big) birch with decent crotches like this are rare finds around here, though once you do find them, getting the wood is a non-issue; Birch is considered a weed species up here and you can cut more or less as much as your heart desires live and green for firewood. I have a whole bunch of smaller Birch crotches I've saved up, but not much more that I could make something of this size from.


----------



## mtngun

Brad, is that a cutting board, or do you use it for playing ping pong ? Looks nice, in any case. 

Thanks for the tip on filling holes with CA.


----------



## Brmorgan

mtngun said:


> Brad, is that a cutting board, or do you use it for playing ping pong ? Looks nice, in any case.
> 
> Thanks for the tip on filling holes with CA.



Or for teaching a kid a lesson... LOL. I'd call it a cutting board.


----------



## mtngun

A few more vertical posts installed this weekend.


----------



## smokinj

mtngun said:


> A few more vertical posts installed this weekend.



Starting to Look like somthing!


----------



## 820wards

mtngun said:


> A few more vertical posts installed this weekend.



Looks like your going to have a pretty nice out building when it's done. Looking Good!

I'd like to get out milling but I pinched a nerve in my building a wheelchair ramp at my Dad's house so milling has been put on hold until the back gets better and I can finally finish the ramp.


jerry-


----------



## garmar

glennschumann said:


> Closing out the 3 posts above, I finally finished the bench (tung oil) and with the fumes of the last coat still floating around in my head, I post these picts for your entertainment. I chamfered the edges of the seat about 1/8" and the legs and stretchers about 1/16" and that really cleaned up the look. I'm quite happy with the design, even thought the seat slab is not the ideal board... but it still carries the memory and history of the family.
> 
> I've decided that the shape of the legs worked better than I thought it ever would. They don't seem too heavy from any direction, but from either front or side, they seem to have a strong "thigh" or "foot" lending a stable look, but not too heavy from any one direction.
> 
> The joinery isn't perfect, but I'm not either.
> 
> Hope you enjoy, keep working and post more of your work soon to inspire us all.
> 
> Mill safe,
> 
> Schumann
> 
> P.S. Anybody know anything about that hand plane I have? Thanks!



I wouldn't have quoted such an old post but I checked your profile and see that you still come around. Beautiful bench! And that joinery you used blows my mind. I've been a custom cabinetmaker for almost two decades and that is among the best joinery I've seen. 

I do have one thing that you might watch for in the future when gluing up wide planks like this one. Look at the ends of the boards. See how the growth rings are turning in what looks like a "frown"? I call those "smiles" and "frowns" It's not crucial on a plank the size of yours - around 12 inches or so - but when gluing up it's best to alternate your "smiles" and "frowns". This will help your lumber from cupping in the future. I'm sure you picked the face of your board by the cosmetic appearance. If you ever do a very large plank this way and fail to keep in mind how the wood cups you can run into problems rather quickly.

As you can see from the picture below, you can look at the ends of a board and determine how it will cup. Closer to the center there is very little cupping but the wood will tend to try to cup on the top *and* bottom, becoming a bit thicker in the middle. I'd say after the amount of time since your project was completed you have a distinct upward bow down the middle like the board right below the middle one in the pic. 






Again, beautiful work!


----------



## mrbentontoyou

garmar said:


> I do have one thing that you might watch for in the future when gluing up wide planks like this one. Look at the ends of the boards. See how the growth rings are turning in what looks like a "frown"? I call those "smiles" and "frowns" It's not crucial on a plank the size of yours - around 12 inches or so - but when gluing up it's best to alternate your "smiles" and "frowns". This will help your lumber from cupping in the future. I'm sure you picked the face of your board by the cosmetic appearance. If you ever do a very large plank this way and fail to keep in mind how the wood cups you can run into problems rather quickly.
> 
> I'd say after the amount of time since your project was completed you have a distinct upward bow down the middle like the board right below the middle one in the pic.




i have heard this argument also- and arguments against it- and i have definitely glued up many panels with alternating ring direction, and many without. 

my personal rule is to arrange the boards so they look best, which is usually how they are on that bench, with the outside of the tree facing out. 

if the wood is at a reasonably low moisture content and has had time to acclimate to the user's environment before milling and cutting joinery it will be fine. wood does indeed cup like your diagram shows, the trick is to joint/plane it for final use after the fact. 

-Roger


----------



## deeker

You guys are doing some amazing work....keep up the pics too.

Lots of good information.

Here is some of the damage I have done, this late summer.

To begin with.






Oh, how I hate heights.




































Stained today, and we finish the porch next week. Two days a week for three weeks time. Have to work around the owner's schedule.

Oh, the date and time stamp. Date, month and year.


----------



## BobL

Awesome!


----------



## smokinj

bobl said:


> awesome!



+1


----------



## huskyhank

Good work, deeker!!


----------



## Can8ianTimber

Here are a couple of pictures of the leanto I built off the shop. The shop was built with lumberstore sticks but the leanto was 100% homesawn lumber. Nothing fancy like the other structures you guys have built but it serves its purpose and I think it looks cool being all rough sawn. I have put a roof on it now but I don't have any pictures of it with the roof on.


----------



## huskyhank

Can8ianTimber,

Looks good!


----------



## BlueRider

*Fallingwater chair*

I don't post pics of my work very often but since I enjoy seeing pics of everyone elses work I thought I should shre some pics of a recent piece. This is made from some claro walnut I milled a couple of years ago. I had been milling a lot of claro from a nearby orchard when I was offered a large claro walnut log two blocks from my house. It was a real "when it rains it pours" kind of thing. I shared the wood from that log with a friend wo helped me mill it and I still ended up with six 2 1/4" slabs with the biggest being 36" wide and 10' long. I used two slabs to make two of these chairs. All the parts came from one slab except one of the seats. I actually cut the seat for one of the slabs out of the center of one slab. that may sound wa####ll but I think the results prove otherwise. Besides I have over 100 slabs of claro walnut.

The back was made by cutting four 'boomerang' shaped pieces out of a 2" slab and turning them 90* and gluing them together. I then cut the giant "s" shape on my bandsaw. The carving on the back side was done by hand with a gouge. It is a pattern I have used several times before and really like even though it took two full 8 hour days to carve. the legs are turned on my lathe without the aid of a duplicator and the seat was carved with a 4 1/2" sanding disc on an angle grinder and then hand sanded starting with 50 grit and finished with 320 grit. The finish is one coat of tung oil followed by three coats of general HP poly and then rubbed out and coated with past wax. 

I just sold this at a show in San Francisco but I had to bring it home to refinish the seat. A woman sat in it with huge conchos on her back pockets and put some rather deep gouges in the seat. Even so I am happy to have made such a nice sale in this economy and the buyer is being very understanding about me having to refinish the seat before I can deliver it.


----------



## BobL

That is one slllllick piece of furniture BR -


----------



## BIG JAKE

Suuuweeeeet!


----------



## 820wards

Beautiful chair Robin! I would have come and seen it in person had I not hurt my back.

jerry-


----------



## mtngun

I threw a few more boards on the woodshed today.


----------



## 820wards

mtngun said:


> I threw a few more boards on the woodshed today.





That's going to be one stout shed. Keep those pic's coming.

jerry-


----------



## glennschumann

*Thanks*



garmar said:


> I wouldn't have quoted such an old post but I checked your profile and see that you still come around. Beautiful bench! And that joinery you used blows my mind. I've been a custom cabinetmaker for almost two decades and that is among the best joinery I've seen.
> 
> I do have one thing that you might watch for in the future when gluing up wide planks like this one. Look at the ends of the boards. See how the growth rings are turning in what looks like a "frown"? I call those "smiles" and "frowns" It's not crucial on a plank the size of yours - around 12 inches or so - but when gluing up it's best to alternate your "smiles" and "frowns". This will help your lumber from cupping in the future. I'm sure you picked the face of your board by the cosmetic appearance. If you ever do a very large plank this way and fail to keep in mind how the wood cups you can run into problems rather quickly.
> 
> As you can see from the picture below, you can look at the ends of a board and determine how it will cup. Closer to the center there is very little cupping but the wood will tend to try to cup on the top *and* bottom, becoming a bit thicker in the middle. I'd say after the amount of time since your project was completed you have a distinct upward bow down the middle like the board right below the middle one in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, beautiful work!



Thanks for the complements and comments! I'm familiar with the cupping of boards, and I always think about that when I see wooden decks and porches with boards placed as "frowns" that warp / cup to hold water when it rains.

The boards I used for the top literally left met about 1/4" extra width when I glued them up with live edges... not much wiggle room, and yes, the pretty side is up. The wood sat in the rafters of my garage for about 3 years, so I was fairly certain the movement was going to be minimized. After I rough cut and milled the top board, it had several months in my shop to acclimate and has remained flat ever since. I get to see it every time I visit my sister and little niece. It sits in their front hall. : )


----------



## garmar

That's great! I bet your sis is proud to show that off in her home.


----------



## mtngun

Mini-milling 8x8's at home.










A corner chisel hasn't shown up yet, plus the handle broke on the Bailey's slick. The metal part of the slick works fine, but the handle seems to be some kind of Taiwanese softwood. 





A few more boards and posts installed.


----------



## smokinj

mtngun said:


> Mini-milling 8x8's at home.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A corner chisel hasn't shown up yet, plus the handle broke on the Bailey's slick. The metal part of the slick works fine, but the handle seems to be some kind of Taiwanese softwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more boards and posts installed.



Starting to look like a brick crap house! Nice I could live in there...lol when your done.


----------



## mtngun

I ran out of doug fir logs so I had to make a couple of 8x8's out of ponderosa, to finish the job. The pine timbers were placed on the interior wall, where they won't be exposed to weather. They should work OK there.





A major milestone was reached today as I finished erecting all the vertical posts. 

Still lots and lots of work yet to get a roof on before winter. We've already had our first frost of the season, so the clock is definitely ticking.


----------



## mtngun

Worked on floor joists today.


----------



## BobL

Coming along noicely!

The surrounds looks like the building is isolated on it's own on a prairie, I'm intrigued as to what other buildings or plants/forest are near by?


----------



## Brmorgan

That's coming along quite nicely.

I'm thinking with your lathe skills you should be able to fab up a new handle for that chisel without too much trouble. Find some nice hard apple or something.

Those Pine posts should be just fine; definitely for your lifetime anyway if maintained. Around here there are numerous abandoned cabins and homesteads out in the middle of nowhere that were built out of Lodgepole pine the better part of a century ago, and are still standing (though mostly not usable) even being left to the elements for decades. There are houses much older than that as well, that have been taken care of and lived in that are still in great shape.


----------



## mtngun

BobL said:


> The surrounds looks like the building is isolated on it's own on a prairie, I'm intrigued as to what other buildings or plants/forest are near by?


Yes, this area is a mix of prairie, forest, and canyons. Wildfires and a harsh climate make it difficult for trees to establish except on the shady north slopes. 

Livestock will stomp and eat pine seedlings, so few trees will grow unless you fence out the livestock. The ranchers constantly bulldoze small trees and shrubs to make room for more grass. 

I've planted over a thousand tree seedlings on my property, but it'll be another decade before they show up in the photos.

I may have already posted these pics ?

A neighbor's back yard, looking across the head of Getta canyon





View from my back yard. The trees on the horizon are the forest where I go woodcutting.


----------



## BobL

Ah yes, I remember those pics but couldn't connect the two.
Fantastic views!

Maybe you've said before, but how long does the snow last?


----------



## mtngun

BobL said:


> Maybe you've said before, but how long does the snow last?


It varies quite a bit from year to year.

In an average year, snow will stay on the ground from mid-November to late March.


----------



## teatersroad

mtngun said:


> Yes, this area is a mix of prairie, forest, and canyons. Wildfires and a harsh climate make it difficult for trees to establish except on the shady north slopes.
> 
> Livestock will stomp and eat pine seedlings, so few trees will grow unless you fence out the livestock. The ranchers constantly bulldoze small trees and shrubs to make room for more grass.
> 
> I've planted over a thousand tree seedlings on my property, but it'll be another decade before they show up in the photos.
> 
> I may have already posted these pics ?
> 
> A neighbor's back yard, looking across the head of Getta canyon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View from my back yard. The trees on the horizon are the forest where I go woodcutting.



Nice timber frame and nice landscape. Traditional for there and here. I know the Imnaha country pretty well, The Cat's Back and the Divide, Zumwalt, probably spotted you from Buckhorn even. Got's blood on that land, and I miss it.


----------



## Timberframed

[/URL][/IMG]
White Ash table top.



[/URL][/IMG]
It's flat..very flat. Like a girl I...no never mind..you get the picture. Army of vintage sanders.



[/URL][/IMG] 
I would have been done long before this but the hired help?



[/URL][/IMG]
Out of Ice cream Dad? Get someone else! I'manna take another nap!


----------



## mtngun

Beautiful table top, Timberframed. Is the table for your own use, or for a paying job ?

I'm still plodding along on the woodshed. 2nd floor will be stick built but since I had a few 6x6 posts laying around, I figured I might as well incorporate them into the project. 

These were the very first posts I'd ever milled, and some of them are a little banana shaped, but I'll make them work. 





BTW, my woodshed was inspired by free barn plans that I found on the North Dakato State University Website.


----------



## Timberframed

Paying job! Long boring tree story behind me now. Mtngun, ya'll going to need some rafters here before the snow starts flying. Wish I could help but you're way out over there. Frame looks good and never mind those bananas, the whole world is full of curves. Unlike a girl I...well you know what I mean.


----------



## BobL

Nice work guys . . . . . good to see someone is being productive.

TF: That table top is looking good, are you able to lift in on your own?

Mtngun: that barn sure looks like a fun project.


----------



## Timberframed

BobL, It weighs somewhere around 350 lbs. I can handle them alone. Have 17 more about this size. Just have to be careful and smart about it. You know. Doing it the hard way with double fisted 11.5 amp 60 grit belts with one of the smaller slabs.



[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## BobL

Timberframed said:


>



I presume you are going to dock the end of that slab otherwise you'll be there a while getting rid of that cup?

Or maybe you woods are soft enough to do it with the 60 grit alone?


----------



## Timberframed

Actually the couple I'm doing the work for want the cup and irregularities. I'm just grinding off what the saw chain left behind. And yes I'll be cutting 18" off the end you see getting past a split. I'm glad for that. I need all the firewood I can get. Or make!


----------



## BIG JAKE

Looks good Mtngun-nice and square..strong too. I too, would like to help if I was closer. Hope we get treated to one of your analytical quantifications of how much money you actually saved/made, by milling your own lumber(with this project). The time will come when you'll be able to stand back and say "I made this out of wood that would have otherwise rotted away, and turned it into something beautiful". Hard work, sweat, but it's paying off! Work sure and carefully up there off the ground and stay safe! 



mtngun said:


> Beautiful table top, Timberframed. Is the table for your own use, or for a paying job ?
> 
> I'm still plodding along on the woodshed. 2nd floor will be stick built but since I had a few 6x6 posts laying around, I figured I might as well incorporate them into the project.
> 
> These were the very first posts I'd ever milled, and some of them are a little banana shaped, but I'll make them work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, my woodshed was inspired by free barn plans that I found on the North Dakato State University Website.


----------



## mtngun

BIG JAKE said:


> Hope we get treated to one of your analytical quantifications of how much money you actually saved/made, by milling your own lumber(with this project).


I figure the woodshed alone paid for the CSM and milling saw. If I had built the woodshed with storebought lumber, the cost of lumber would have been easily over $1000, maybe several thousand. It would have been smaller and it would have used a lot of OSB. Just not the same as using big timbers and sturdy rough cut lumber.


----------



## Grey

*Oak flooring*

Ice storm knocked down 2 beautiful red oaks in my woods. These were up off the ground for about 2 yrs. Then we bucked and milled them into 1255 bf 4/4, stacked, stickered, air-dried 3 mo, kiln dried 1 mo, milled into random width (3",4",6") T&G, ripped out crappy carpet, laid in 750 sq. ft. (3 rooms + 2 hallways) of flooring with about 200 bf of rough-sawn 4/4 left over.


----------



## sachsmo

WOW nice stuff there.Is that a Morton pole barn?


----------



## Grey

I don't know. The barn was built by the former owner. We sure love it, though. It's 24x32 with a poured concrete floor!


----------



## sachsmo

Did you tongue and groove that? You do nice work Welcome to the site 2 years 2 posts. Guess you have found a better way to spend your time.


----------



## Grey

I had a local custom millwork shop do the T&G and another local mill do the kiln-drying. Thanks again for the complements. My wife and I were really proud of how this came out. She actually did at least 1/2 of the installation with me.

Yeah, I've got way too many hobbies, so I don't spend much time on this site. I just came across this thread by accident this morning and I read all the posts, start-to-finish. I love wood and woodworking!


----------



## DRB

Nice to see a log start to finish.

Nice floor to.


----------



## Grey

Thank you. I wish I would have taken pix of the logs as they lay in the woods, before we bucked and dragged them out. It's the only thing I forgot to document. So be it...


----------



## curlybirtch

*Beams and Braces*

Built a barn out of mine. Cut the trees down on the land, got everything I needed to build the barn except the plywood and shingles from the roof and the cement for the floor. Mortise and Tenon......fun project.


----------



## curlybirtch

*one more almost finished pic*

Almost there


----------



## mtngun

Excellent craftsmanship, CurlyBirtch.


----------



## Brmorgan

mtngun said:


> Excellent craftsmanship, CurlyBirtch.



LOL, Dan, at first there I didn't realize you were just reposting his pics from an earlier post and I hadn't seen those before, so for a minute when I saw the first pic, I was thinking you had called the Amish in for a barn-raising on your project or something; couldn't figure out how you'd gotten it to that state already! Then I noticed what was in the background through the door and clued in.

Agreed though, excellent craftsmanship indeed.


----------



## jimdad07

Incredible barn work. That is some of the best joinery I have ever seen in timber framing, and I have worked on many houses that were timber framed for rich folks up here in the Thousand Islands. Great work. Nice to see the pegs being used. Believe it or not, but the pegs will last longer than metal, the metal rusts and lets moisture in and tends to rot the wood around. Great work again.


----------



## Timberframed

Here is a Trunnel peg I took out of a brace from a barn that was built in 1733. Hickory no doubt. I say it could be used again.



[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## mtngun

curlybirtch said:


> got everything I needed to build the barn except the..... shingles for the roof


Around here, they'd bring in a portable circle mill to saw the lumber on site to build a barn. Instead of buying shingles, they'd make their own shingles out of douglas fir, since there is no cedar in the area. They tell me the doug fir shingles worked well enough.

I see very few Western barns with quality timber frame construction. I'm guessing because westerners were isolated (few neighbors to help raise heavy timbers), had few tools, and -- just like me -- they were racing against time to get a roof up before winter shut down construction.


----------



## curlybirtch

*Barn*

Thanks for your kind words. Believe it or not......this was the first "Timber frame" project I had every done. Read a couple of books and went to it. It did help that I am a mechanical engineer by trade. My pegs are hard maple, and I believe that they will last longer than any of the nails that I had to use.


----------



## pops21

curlybirtch said:


> Thanks for your kind words. Believe it or not......this was the first "Timber frame" project I had every done. Read a couple of books and went to it. It did help that I am a mechanical engineer by trade. My pegs are hard maple, and I believe that they will last longer than any of the nails that I had to use.



You might have already said, but how long did it take you from start to finsh. I'm talking from milling to the end. Heck even your research in the beginning. At some point in my life I would LOVE to do the same. I'm only 25 so I got a while (lord willing). Main thing I'm concerned about is loosing intrest or will in the middle of the build. Also any idea on how much ya got into it? I guess the first thing to do is to do a small barn or shed.


----------



## curlybirtch

*Barn Build*

From the time the first Tree hit the ground to the last gallon of stain being applied it took about 18 months give or take. That was mostly only working weekends and holidays though. Also, I did all the mortise and tenon joints with hammer and chisel, so you could probably speed that up with a mechanical mortise machine and a large beam cutting saw. I figure I have about $6K into it, that includes site prep and concrete. Not too bad for a 24' x 36' barn. If your like me, once you get started doing this, you cant wait to get back to it. I am already planning my next one I enjoyed it so much.


----------



## mtngun

Starting to put up rafters. Looks like I'll be rained out for a while, though.


----------



## schmuck.k

looking good Mtngun


----------



## 820wards

mtngun said:


> Starting to put up rafters. Looks like I'll be rained out for a while, though.





Mtgun,

That is looking real good. So how much gas do you think you have burned so far on the project, not that it really matter? Just wondering.

jerry-


----------



## pops21

curlybirtch said:


> From the time the first Tree hit the ground to the last gallon of stain being applied it took about 18 months give or take. That was mostly only working weekends and holidays though. Also, I did all the mortise and tenon joints with hammer and chisel, so you could probably speed that up with a mechanical mortise machine and a large beam cutting saw. I figure I have about $6K into it, that includes site prep and concrete. Not too bad for a 24' x 36' barn. If your like me, once you get started doing this, you cant wait to get back to it. I am already planning my next one I enjoyed it so much.




Thanks for the answer. Maybe one of these days when I'm older I'll try my hand at building one.


----------



## mtngun

820wards said:


> So how much gas do you think you have burned so far on the project.


I haven't kept track, but let's make an educated guess.

The saw averages about one gallon per hour of run time, and it's logged 50 hours this year alone, so let's say 50 gallons of 2-stroke mix just this year.


----------



## jimdad07

Looks great Mtgun, hope to see more soon.:yourock:


----------



## Timberframed

Finished this for a client last week. As simple as it is,



[/URL][/IMG] it's just what 
they wanted.



[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## deevo

*Tree house*

Well, I used the wood for this from the 60 small red pines I milled last year on my father in-laws norwood industries mill. I used 8"x8'ers for the base/platform. Used a birch tree for my 4th post (one I cut down and used the 1st 10') put it in the ground like a post! I bought a few studs for the actual house part. I used plexi glass for the peeks to let some light in.I just have the front window to finish, and a few other little things. Kids love it and have made it their own on the inside! Railings I had to put in as my girls are 4 & 6. Still looking for a 12-14' slide to add!


----------



## mtngun

Nice treehouse, Deevo. I loved tree houses when I was a kid. Building them was more fun than using them.


----------



## deevo

mtngun said:


> Nice treehouse, Deevo. I loved tree houses when I was a kid. Building them was more fun than using them.



Yeah, I'd have to say it was fun, I did everything myself..... except my framer friend helped me with the actual house part! I used up a lot of the wood I milled which is good as my wifes been after me to get rid of it all!


----------



## 820wards

mtngun said:


> I haven't kept track, but let's make an educated guess.
> 
> The saw averages about one gallon per hour of run time, and it's logged 50 hours this year alone, so let's say 50 gallons of 2-stroke mix just this year.




Thanks MtnGun,

That's a lot of gas, but look at all the fine wood you have saved from just rotting in the forest.

I've been wanting to get out with my mill, but I pinched my sciatic nerve in my back and it is effecting my right leg. It's doing better, but I'm not going to force the issue by trying to get out and mill before the back is better. Looking at what everyone has been milling is just killing me!!!!

Great job on your shed and all the great info on your chain comparisons.

jerry-


----------



## BobL

820wards said:


> I've been wanting to get out with my mill, but I pinched my sciatic nerve in my back and it is effecting my right leg. It's doing better, but I'm not going to force the issue by trying to get out and mill before the back is better. Looking at what everyone has been milling is just killing me!!!!



That's too bad Jerry, I hope it clears up soon.

I've got a week to got before I can get the splints off my fingers but even after that I know I have to take it easy as the knuckles are still sore and swollen.


----------



## Brmorgan

*Retaining Wall*

No work today (or tomorrow either, from the looks of it) because we can't get any logs to the mill due to the rain. In 23 years here I can't remember once having breakup and not being able to haul logs in the fall. But the powers that be say we can't... :censored:

So I took advantage of the extra time to get started in on the retaining wall project I've been milling square timbers for over the last couple weeks. With all the rain, it was a heck of a muddy mess digging out and doing the prep work. But it's gotta get done before things freeze up, so I had to just put up with it. I didn't work IN the rain, but things were still awful wet from the last couple days.





This is what I started out with. Well technically, I started two years ago when my brother and I ripped out the broken-down stone-and-concrete wall that was there; what remains in the foreground is mostly just a dry stone wall but it'll be going as well. 





Got the trench dug for most of the wall; my hands and arms got a really decent workout from swinging the pick and shovel, not to mention carrying those blocks around and moving the beams by hand! I'm glad most of the digging is done now though. Just going through and leveling and aligning the blocks here in this pic. I'm putting one row of Allen blocks in the ground as a base, so I don't have to put the base timber in the ground and leave it exposed to moisture. No matter what I treat it with, it wouldn't last long that way. Also, if it looks like the row of blocks is grossly misaligned with the existing wall, it is. The old one was about 3' off-square from the foundation of the house at this end, which is 25' away from the house. Since I plan on building stairs up to the deck (likely a next-year project), I wanted to have everything square with the house; the only downside is I'll lose a little bit of driveway space. . This suits me just fine because I'll be able to just bury the remainder of the old concrete wall and pack the loose stones away.






Put one of the 12' 8X8s into place to get a good eye on how things are lined up. Everything looks straight that far, and once I get it into place it'll be a lot easier to line up the last half. I'm putting a layer of tarpaper between the bottom piece and the blocks to keep moisture from wicking up through the bottom, and it'll also be all along the backside as well. I will also be treating the wood with copper and/or zinc preservatives before I put it into place permanently with some rebar. 

At the end of the beam that's in place, there will be a small step/platform that will go back to about where the old wall was, maybe 24-28" deep by 3' wide or so, then another square platform that goes back to about where the D handle of the short shovel is, where there will be another smaller retaining wall. I might possibly put one more built-in platform before the staircase, but that'll depend on how the math works out for the stairs.

More pics tomorrow, most likely.


----------



## Stihlman441

Timberframed said:


> Finished this for a client last week. As simple as it is,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL][/IMG] it's just what
> they wanted.
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL][/IMG]



Nice table simple and looks great.
I may have the wrong idear here but in the bottom pick on the left there is a down pipe,whats the spare one coming out on and angle for ?


----------



## mtngun

Brad, glad to see you are not afraid of hard work with a pick and shovel. I've done a bit of that myself. 

How come your chipper mill doesn't have a yard full of logs like most mills ?

So far the la Nina rains have skirted just North of me, but I suspect I'll get my share before it's over. Gonna make it tough to get my shed closed in this fall.


----------



## Brmorgan

mtngun said:


> Brad, glad to see you are not afraid of hard work with a pick and shovel. I've done a bit of that myself.
> 
> How come your chipper mill doesn't have a yard full of logs like most mills ?
> 
> So far the la Nina rains have skirted just North of me, but I suspect I'll get my share before it's over. Gonna make it tough to get my shed closed in this fall.



Heh, yeah, I just prefer to get paid to do work like this if I can!

The rains you speak of are the reason for us not having any logs. Ours are all coming out of the heart of the beetle-killed Lodgepole forests out west in the Chilcotin, and with all the trees dead, when it rains the water just sits, because in many areas the underlay is glacial clay and the water just can't seep into the ground fast enough.


----------



## BobL

Stihlman441 said:


> Nice table simple and looks great.
> I may have the wrong idear here but in the bottom pick on the left there is a down pipe,whats the spare one coming out on and angle for ?



I knew a guy who had one of those angled pipes in his shed and used it as a urinal. Kept a bottle of watery bleach to squirt in afterwards and kept it capped of course.


----------



## jimdad07

Stihlman441 said:


> Nice table simple and looks great.
> I may have the wrong idear here but in the bottom pick on the left there is a down pipe,whats the spare one coming out on and angle for ?



Looks like a clean-out to me in case the down spout clogs.


----------



## Timberframed

Used to be a urinal when buddies would come over to blow the froth off a few but since the Yellow Jackets found out it's a good place to build a nest, it is ill advised. Pipe goes under the shop and spills out onto a road.


----------



## BobL

Timberframed said:


> Used to be a urinal when buddies would come over to blow the froth off a few but since the Yellow Jackets found out it's a good place to build a nest, it is ill advised. Pipe goes under the shop and spills out onto a road.



This is actually really easy to fix - a conical shaped funnel made of plastic insect screen or plastic sheet with a plastic insect screen cover inserted into the opening will do it.


----------



## jimdad07

BobL said:


> This is actually really easy to fix - a conical shaped funnel made of plastic insect screen or plastic sheet with a plastic insect screen cover inserted into the opening will do it.



Is there anything out there that you have not made a little better?


----------



## Brmorgan

LOL. I love where this thread has gone... I just use the nearest tree up by the workshop!


----------



## Stihlman441

Ya sorry fellars i started it,but it was so much of a stand out.


----------



## Timberframed

I thought about some metal screen then I could put one of those "mints" in it.


----------



## BobL

jimdad07 said:


> Is there anything out there that you have not made a little better?



Yeah - my life !


----------



## Timberframed

Top of the morning to you BobL! Enjoy the first full day of Spring.


----------



## BobL

Timberframed said:


> Top of the morning to you BobL! Enjoy the first full day of Spring.



Cheers TF.

Spring? It's been spring here for the last week, clear sunny days with hi's of lo 80's. The big good news of the day is I can now take those itching finger splints off my fingers for a couple of hours a day. I can also straighten the ends of my fingers so this means the tendons have reattached. 

BTW this is the best time of the year for milling weather but I still have to take it easy with the fingers for at least another 4 weeks. Dang!


----------



## Timberframed

Hmmm...I was understood that the Autumnal Equinox occurred 9/22 @23:09 hrs EST. You are 12 hrs ahead at Perth Western down under time so..OK 2nd full day. Glad to hear the splints are soon going to be a thing of the past. Above all, how's the throttle finger?


----------



## BobL

Timberframed said:


> Hmmm...I was understood that the Autumnal Equinox occurred 9/22 @23:09 hrs EST. You are 12 hrs ahead at Perth Western down under time so..OK 2nd full day.


True but the actual onset of spring in Western Australia is when the first large high pressure cell sits in the Great Australian Bight and creates a trough across the SW coast. This raises temps by 10-20º over average and if it sits there light it has for a couple of weeks it creates the first buds of spring. This has been happening earlier and earlier for the last 20 years. Result is spring often starts around early september.



> Glad to hear the splints are soon going to be a thing of the past. Above all, how's the throttle finger?


No individual finger required - I'm a full or no hand operator.


----------



## Timberframed

I look up at the night sky here and interesting enough with the Milky Way and all but I often wondered what a clear sky at your latitude shows the Great Magellanic Clouds. Do they stand out like pictures show? Oh! And I've got to make me one of those throttles.


----------



## BobL

Timberframed said:


> I look up at the night sky here and interesting enough with the Milky Way and all but I often wondered what a clear sky at your latitude shows the Great Magellanic Clouds. Do they stand out like pictures show? Oh! And I've got to make me one of those throttles.



The GMC and the SMC are truly one of the wonders of the southern Hemisphere sky. You can't see them unless you are away from city lights and even then they are fuzz balls rather than distinct objects. The one time I have seen them in even greater glory was from a 767 cockpit - now that's a sight I will never forget.


----------



## Brmorgan

I bet the Druids and Wiccans are having a fit with the full moon falling on the Equinox this year eh!


Anyway, I made a bit more progress on the retaining wall over the last couple days. Spent a significant amount of time yesterday just standing, looking, and thinking though. Felt unproductive, but I'd rather get things all sorted in my mind than overlook something important and find out the hard way down the line.

First up yesterday, it was time for inspection by the shift supervisor:





Everything checked out, I guess, so I kept plodding along.





Even got to bust out the vintage TS350 cutoff saw to do a bit of work with the blocks. I had to cut the "tails" off of a couple of them; then I can put the beveled ends tight together to make a 30° corner. 





That's as far as I got last night. Starting to look like something, anyway. There is one 30° corner at the end of the timbers that form the main stretch of the wall; then another one three blocks past that. I was going to put in a third one to complete the full 90° turn at the end of the wall, but it really wouldn't make much difference in the end, and would end up making three short sections in the front of the wall instead of two longer ones, which would mean a lot more cutting and work. I still have to situate the last few blocks; I ended up having to move the end of the straight wall out a couple inches which threw everything all off. It's harder than it looks to get those all lined up really nice, too.






Today I got the bottom platform framed in, and all the timbers you see have been anchored with rebar and are nice and sturdy now. The boards are just sitting there for now; I built a small frame out of pressure-treated 4X4 posts and set it inside the big timbers on top of a healthy layer of drain rock. An 8X8 will go across the back of this level on top of the two deadman pieces and will act as the step up to the next platform; next, a longer deadman will go all the way from the face of the wall back to the back of this next platform and will act as the step up to the next level, a 90° turn to the right. Hopefully I'll get a fair bit of that done tomorrow, since I should have all day to work on it. I'm still going to need a fair bit more 8X8 stock though - I need quite a few short pieces which may not work out all that nicely with the lengths I have, so I hope I can get away without wasting too much. I still have 10 logs left to mill up top though, 6 of which should give me nice 8X8s 10-12 feet long.

It's turning out to be a bit more of a project than I initially thought I was getting into, but so far I'm happy with how it's looking and coming together. It's something I've wanted to get done for five-odd years now, so it's about time.


----------



## mtngun

Looking good, Brad. Nice dog, too.


----------



## 820wards

BobL said:


> That's too bad Jerry, I hope it clears up soon.
> 
> I've got a week to got before I can get the splints off my fingers but even after that I know I have to take it easy as the knuckles are still sore and swollen.




Thanks Bob,

I just got back from our cabin in the CA gold country just to take it easy. Hope your hand is doing better? You don't realize how much you miss using a particular limb until you can't use it. My leg/back is doing much better that means my drumming in the band will be getting better.

Saw these guys this morning when I got up.







One of them kept pecking on my truck bumper






take care,
jerry-


----------



## mtngun

Looking more gambrelish.


----------



## BobL

I'm dead jealous.


----------



## jimdad07

mtngun said:


> Looking more gambrelish.



I'm with Bob, dead jealous. What are the dimensions on your barn? I am planning a new shop with a 28' x 28' footprint, otherwise here in New York and in my town in particular, I would have to break the frost line (3'0 with a frost wall with no breaks in it. They get you coming and going around here.
I'm going with the timber framed wood shop with a full attic. Starting to mill the beams after deer season.


----------



## mtngun

jimdad07 said:


> What are the dimensions on your barn?


24 x 36.

My concrete piers are not below the frost line, so they will move around a bit. I'm not concerned about it, the traditional barn in this area uses a foundation consisting of a log or a beam propped up on a few rocks, and some of those 75+ year old barns are still in service. They may be a bit out of level, but it's a frigging barn, not a billiard table.


----------



## jimdad07

mtngun said:


> 24 x 36.
> 
> My concrete piers are not below the frost line, so they will move around a bit. I'm not concerned about it, the traditional barn in this area uses a foundation consisting of a log or a beam propped up on a few rocks, and some of those 75+ year old barns are still in service. They may be a bit out of level, but it's a frigging barn, not a billiard table.



How far down is frost line out your way? Must be pretty good.


----------



## mtngun

I don't know, there is no data on that. Drive a few miles in any direction and you are in a different climate zone, so it is impossible to set any local standards.

But probably not much different than other northern climates.


----------



## Timberframed

Mntgun needs to be more concerned about wind sheer than frost lift. Thus the Gambrel. Good job!


----------



## irishcountry

*MTNgun*

That is one awesome barn !!! Great job !! Can't wait to see it all done !


----------



## headleyj

MTN - are you drying your lumber ahead of time? If so, for how long? Is it to a certain MC?


----------



## mtngun

Headleyj, the lumber is mostly dry, though I'm not fussy about it. In fact, some people actually prefer to frame with green douglas fir, because it is much, much easier to nail when it is green.

Most of the deadfall that I cut is already 1/2 dry when I mill it. After edging and stacking with stickers, it quickly dries even more. 

The only place I insist on using well dried lumber is flooring.


----------



## headleyj

mtngun said:


> Headleyj, the lumber is mostly dry, though I'm not fussy about it. In fact, some people actually prefer to frame with green douglas fir, because it is much, much easier to nail when it is green.
> 
> Most of the deadfall that I cut is already 1/2 dry when I mill it. After edging and stacking with stickers, it quickly dries even more.
> 
> The only place I insist on using well dried lumber is flooring.



just toyed with the idea of milling mine for a barn and this is a ? I have. Thanks man - kudos on teh barn - looks tough!


----------



## mtngun

Rafters finished. On to purlins ....


----------



## betterbuilt

nice job mtngun. I bet your feeling pretty good. I bet you'll feel even better when the roof is on. Are you doing that all alone?


----------



## mtngun

betterbuilt said:


> Are you doing that all alone?


Yep.


----------



## fiasco

*DIY mill and sled shed start*

Against my better judgement, I'll show you what I've started building today with a bunch of pine I've salvaged on the little 2.75 acre parcel I call home.

First the mill. I bought a Beam Machine a little over a year ago, but didn't get much time to try it out. Finally this year, I've been able to get a bit of time and have my "big" (ha, ha) saw running, a Jonsered 2159. I bought a couple of loops of ripping chain from Bailey's and went at it. The Beam Machine was OK for making, well, beams, but not so hot for boards. 

Being the cheapskate that I am (and also a stay at home dad with two little boys), I couldn't fathom ponying up for an Alaskan to see if I liked milling, so I built my own "mini Alaskan". It isn't pretty, I used a little flat stock, some angle iron and some pieces of a trash pump frame I had kicking around, and after some fiddling and a little very ugly welding, here's what I ended up with (sorry, they're cell phone pics):






Here it is sort of "in action":











Yep, it's pretty ugly. Nope, it doesn't mill all that square. But for a first test, I consider it a success. Now I just need to learn how to file these ripping chains a LOT better, although the regular 3/8" chain still does an OK job. It's slow going with a 59cc saw, so now I want more power! Sure would like to stumble into a blown up Makita 6401 to make into an 84cc terror.... 

After several afternoons of milling a few dead white pines I'd dropped I had a pile like this: 






I did do a bit of work with a table saw in an effort to square up some boards for the deck/floor. Nothing too fancy...had to plug the table saw into a 20 amp circuit so it would stop tripping the breaker. Made me a bunch of 2ish by 6" boards to start.






Haven't gotten too far yet, but I figure if I post, I'll have to keep going!


----------



## teatersroad

mtngun said:


> Yep.



Tell me you're not milling your skip sheeting as well.

Frost heave on footings will be no problem, the barn will move up and down on those waves just fine. Kreicky, think of wooden boats. It is frost heave on stem walls and foundations that would wreak havoc, bust 'em all to heck all. Lotta work there bud. I renovated an old farmstead bunkhouse across the way from you ( Zumwalt) awhile back.

And nice work there Fiasco.


----------



## jimdad07

fiasco said:


> Against my better judgement, I'll show you what I've started building today with a bunch of pine I've salvaged on the little 2.75 acre parcel I call home.
> 
> First the mill. I bought a Beam Machine a little over a year ago, but didn't get much time to try it out. Finally this year, I've been able to get a bit of time and have my "big" (ha, ha) saw running, a Jonsered 2159. I bought a couple of loops of ripping chain from Bailey's and went at it. The Beam Machine was OK for making, well, beams, but not so hot for boards.
> 
> Being the cheapskate that I am (and also a stay at home dad with two little boys), I couldn't fathom ponying up for an Alaskan to see if I liked milling, so I built my own "mini Alaskan". It isn't pretty, I used a little flat stock, some angle iron and some pieces of a trash pump frame I had kicking around, and after some fiddling and a little very ugly welding, here's what I ended up with (sorry, they're cell phone pics):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is sort of "in action":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, it's pretty ugly. Nope, it doesn't mill all that square. But for a first test, I consider it a success. Now I just need to learn how to file these ripping chains a LOT better, although the regular 3/8" chain still does an OK job. It's slow going with a 59cc saw, so now I want more power! Sure would like to stumble into a blown up Makita 6401 to make into an 84cc terror....
> 
> After several afternoons of milling a few dead white pines I'd dropped I had a pile like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did do a bit of work with a table saw in an effort to square up some boards for the deck/floor. Nothing too fancy...had to plug the table saw into a 20 amp circuit so it would stop tripping the breaker. Made me a bunch of 2ish by 6" boards to start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't gotten too far yet, but I figure if I post, I'll have to keep going!



Nothing wrong with your mill, we all have to start somewhere and there is no money like saved money. Keep posting your progress.


----------



## BobL

Good on you for having a go at "rolling your own".



fiasco said:


> .
> .
> Being the cheapskate that I am (and also a stay at home dad with two little boys), I couldn't fathom ponying up for an Alaskan to see if I liked milling, so I built my own "mini Alaskan". )



I don't want to make a big deal out of it but technically speaking it's an alaskan if the bar is held at both ends.

The problem of holding the bar only at one end is highlighted by the gap shown in this pic.
This worries me since it suggests the bar and mill are either not that robust and/or not parallel.
An outcome of will be that uneven thickness boards or (hopefully not) worse it will break.




Seeing as you got this far it will be nothing for you to implement a bolt on bar at both ends type alaskan. You may of course need a longer bar and a bigger saw. 

It never ends!


----------



## fiasco

BobL said:


> Good on you for having a go at "rolling your own".
> 
> 
> 
> I don't want to make a big deal out of it but technically speaking it's an alaskan if the bar is held at both ends.
> 
> The problem of holding the bar only at one end is highlighted by the gap shown in this pic.
> This worries me since it suggests the bar and mill are either not that robust and/or not parallel.
> An outcome of will be that uneven thickness boards or (hopefully not) worse it will break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing as you got this far it will be nothing for you to implement a bolt on bar at both ends type alaskan. You may of course need a longer bar and a bigger saw.
> 
> It never ends!



Yes, I may add that to this mill, or go for version 2. Unfortunately, I WILL need a larger bar (18" isn't enough), and with only 59cc's of saw, more bar will require more saw!


----------



## stonykill

fiasco said:


> Yes, I may add that to this mill, or go for version 2. Unfortunately, I WILL need a larger bar (18" isn't enough), and with only 59cc's of saw, more bar will require more saw!



if you go thru my posts from a few years ago, and at the beginning of this thread, you will see me running as small as a 48cc Stihl (031) with a 24 inch bar and lp chain from Baileys. My favorite setup was a 50 something cc Pioneer Holiday, 24 inch bar, lp chain and an Alaskan. Light weight, and plenty of power for smaller logs. Hard and soft wood. But yes, a bigger saw makes it go faster. Plus I ran old, lower rpm, high torque saws when milling with small saws. Still, it can be done.......


----------



## BobL

stonykill said:


> if you go thru my posts from a few years ago, and at the beginning of this thread, you will see me running as small as a 48cc Stihl (031) with a 24 inch bar and lp chain from Baileys. My favorite setup was a 50 something cc Pioneer Holiday, 24 inch bar, lp chain and an Alaskan. Light weight, and plenty of power for smaller logs. Hard and soft wood. But yes, a bigger saw makes it go faster. Plus I ran old, lower rpm, high torque saws when milling with small saws. Still, it can be done.......



Yep I agree you could run a 24" bar on that saw especially if it was an 050 and you ran lopro chain.


----------



## Guido Salvage

*Uses for wood*

I had to drop by the Blue Cross office today to drop off my monthly premium and saw a friend of mine in the lobby who I worked with there. We started talking and I mentioned that i had sold my Frick mill last weekend. Turns out that he is making writing pens out of wood. I mentioned that I had some walnut strips and slabs left over from a couple of weeks ago and he was welcome to them. Each pen takes a 1"x1"x5" block of wood to make. The end result is that i will get a couple of his pens in exchange for wood I was going to burn. 

I will try to get a picture of his work.


----------



## mtngun

Purlins installed on one side.


----------



## deeker

mtngun said:


> Purlins installed on one side.



A very nice job!!!!


----------



## TNMIKE

Fine work by all. That barn is looking good Mtn. What kind of permit situation exists in your county there?


----------



## ChainsawmanXX

stonykill said:


> if you go thru my posts from a few years ago, and at the beginning of this thread, you will see me running as small as a 48cc Stihl (031) with a 24 inch bar and lp chain from Baileys. My favorite setup was a 50 something cc Pioneer Holiday, 24 inch bar, lp chain and an Alaskan. Light weight, and plenty of power for smaller logs. Hard and soft wood. But yes, a bigger saw makes it go faster. Plus I ran old, lower rpm, high torque saws when milling with small saws. Still, it can be done.......





Heck I like using my SXL Homelite to mill alot of softwood stuff... (Spalted elm, cedar, what not!) It works great.. Richend it up a bit and filed down my own ripping chain.


----------



## mtngun

Hung tin today until it started to rain.


----------



## RPM

mtngun said:


> Hung tin today until it started to rain.



Looking good ... nice frame - its almost a shame to have to cover it up.


----------



## jimdad07

Looking great Mtn., that roof is going to make some good sound in the rain.


----------



## BobL

jimdad07 said:


> Looking great Mtn., that roof is going to make some good sound in the rain.



I can hear it from here! As a young kid I lived in a house that had an iron roof and no insulation loved the sound it made when it rained. Our current house which we have own for more than 30 years also has an iron roof but the insulation dampens the sound a fair bit.

Oh yeah - it looks great Mtngun!


----------



## twoclones

mtngun said:


> Purlins installed on one side.



You're calling this a barn? No, no, no. I grew up in the Ozarks and I know a mansion when I see one.  Looks great!


----------



## john taliaferro

yep walk in to the kitchen ,one step down to the family room . You should clean up thoes sharp sticks though for when you back up to admire your great work and fall through.


----------



## Cowboy Billy

Looks great MtnGun!!!!

I could live in that!!!!!

Billy


----------



## twoclones

*Solar Kiln*

I finally got the siding on my solar kiln. It lacks handles to lift the doors, vents, and a fan. I milled all the framing from Ponderosa Pine, and the siding from Western Red Cedar. The glass is recycled shower doors and it's sitting on railroad ties which were here when we bought the place. OSB and nails are the only thing I had to buy


----------



## mtngun

Good job on the kiln, TwoClones. 

Today a neighbor lent me his scaffolding so I could access the edge of the roof.


----------



## john taliaferro

If i weren't so far i would come by and watch. sky looks ominous , but the barn sure looks nice . Bobs on the road again maybe he's comming by but with bum fingers he won't be much help. glade you cleaned up ill sleep better.


----------



## ROOTSXROCKS

*thought I'd cross post a little*

I dug up the original thread were I had cut the beetle kill and posted to it. but here is some other stuff i'm doing with it. It really feels good to know I single handedly processeed this from a dead tree in the woods to a piece of art. more pictures at http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/ROOTSXROCKS/WOOD milling/


----------



## headleyj

MTN - I jsut have to ask - did you really CSM all the wood for your barn?!?!?!


----------



## mtngun

headleyj said:


> MTN - I jsut have to ask - did you really CSM all the wood for your barn?!?!?!


Every piece. :rockn:


----------



## headleyj

mtngun said:


> Every piece. :rockn:



wow wow wow


----------



## qbilder

headleyj said:


> MTN - I jsut have to ask - did you really CSM all the wood for your barn?!?!?!



Dedication & a little bit of insanity right there. Something to be proud of in the end


----------



## Brmorgan

*Progress on the retaining wall*

Well the evenings are starting to get short up here; the sun's down behind the trees well before 6pm and it's fairly dark by 7, so not much time to work on stuff at home after putting in a shift at the mill anymore... Couldn't ask for better weather though. It's been sunny and beautiful here for the last two weeks fairly solid, with temps hovering between 17-25°C, which is high for this time of year, and only a few frosty nights so far. I've been slowly plodding along on the retaining wall; here's what I've done so far after this afternoon's contributions:







A couple days ago, I installed the deadman that's about halfway back that goes into the hill. It's resting on cinder blocks and a good bed of drain rock that I buried in the dirt. It will be the far end of the third platform/step; this one will be pretty much buried and unexposed - another 8X8 will go on top of it, and the stairs will come down onto that one. 






It's a bit hard to tell from that shot, but it's pretty darn good for level across the gap there. My level was showing about an eighth of an inch high to the left across its 6' length; if that's the average over the length of the wall, I could expect less than a half inch off of level from one end to the other; we shall see, once it's all done. Considering all the inaccuracies in leveling the base blocks, and warp and sawing tolerances in the wood, I'm pretty happy with that. It's not nearly enough that you could notice.






Looking down from above. The stairway down will be 3' wide and will start at the gap between two deck boards that's just to right of center at the bottom and is in line with the bottom platform of the retaining wall. The stairway will end on the deadman that's in place. It's approximately a 6' rise over an 8' run. This pic gives a better idea of the whole layout of the project. The next platform will be to the right of the one already built, and will go 3' (the width of the staircase) past the 8X8 that's across the back of the existing platform, past which the inner retaining wall will start; the overall depth from the face of the main wall is just a bit over 6'. The next platform will come towards the camera to the deadman. An 8X8 will come off the near corner of the first platform and be lap jointed into the deadman, forming the outer edge of the third platform. This will create a "box" of sorts surrounded by the main wall, first platform, third platform, and deadman, so I'll have a flowerbed/box in there or something.

I'm almost out of wood again; down to two eight-foot 8X8s and one of those is a bit whitespecked and suspect to begin with; not sure I wanna use it, really. I need to mill a good 8-10 more, I think. The inner retaining wall will be built with 6X6, which I have a few of already and have three suitable logs to make some more.


----------



## gemniii

When I've built things that are over 6' horizontal and wanted to make sure they were level I'd take a piece of hose, long enough to curl w/ both ends up (garden or whatever), tie one end on a stick at one end of the structure, and the same at the other. Fill the hose with water, and I've got a level. Works over long distances, given enough hose. Does not compensate for gravity anomalies or earth curvature.

Also works well with cheap clear plastic air hose used for aquariums, stick one end in a jug add some food coloring and water.

Nowadays you can get a laser level fairly cheaply.


----------



## DaltonPaull

mtngun - I love your barn! I remember seeing some pictures of a house you were working on a while ago and that looked great too. 

I'm looking forward to working on a structure at some point in the future but for now I'm concentrating on furniture. Here's an idea I came up with to show off an interesting maple log I snagged that fell onto the side of the road after being killed by ivy. The frame is English walnut that I milled from a yard tree.







This is a hall table with a live edge top from cedar I milled in Idaho. I also milled the cherry from a nail filled yard tree. The black walnut was bought from someone who cut it free hand with a chainsaw - took a lot of work to straighten it out.






Here's a table I made with a bent laminated base and a book matched top from a lovely walnut log I milled.


----------



## mtngun

That's some unique furniture, DaltonPaul.

More purlins and tin.


----------



## stonykill

very nice DaltonPaul . I see a Nakashima influence.


----------



## Timberframed

Good work DP! Like the bookcase. I was wondering what to do with this other Mimosa log I got from a tree job.


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

SPM in King said:


> This is a Silver Maple dining table 8' long x ~48" wide. Two boards glued together. Base and butterflies are black walnut. The Maple was milled in January and kiln dried over the winter/spring. The big end was 44". Take a look at the thread for surfacing large slabs: "http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=144231" to see how it was flattened.
> 
> Finish is Deftoil Marine Teakwood.
> 
> Steve.




Beautiful!

Sure a lot of really nice work in here. I miss my shop.


----------



## SomeotherGuy

mtngun said:


> I figure the woodshed alone paid for the CSM and milling saw. If I had built the woodshed with storebought lumber, the cost of lumber would have been easily over $1000, maybe several thousand. It would have been smaller and it would have used a lot of OSB. Just not the same as using big timbers and sturdy rough cut lumber.



Mtngun.
Im a builder/remodeler by trade. You probably have over $1,500.00 (lumber yard purchaced) in just rafters and purlins.
I would give a guess at $8,000.00 + for materials purchaced for the whole building. Thats wood alone, and probably a bit conservitive.
So. What did your mill cost??? :greenchainsaw:

Fantastic job on it!


Jason


----------



## BobL

Nice work all round guys.



aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Beautiful!
> 
> Sure a lot of really nice work in here. I miss my shop.



What's happened to your shop?


----------



## mtngun

A little more tin ..... getting close, but the last few pieces will be the most time consuming and the most dangerous. 





I ordered some special shoes for walking on the steel roofing, which I'll have to do to install the cap. Expensive, but not as expensive as a trip to the emergency room.


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr

BobL said:


> Nice work all round guys.
> 
> 
> 
> What's happened to your shop?




It's still there- but I am not. I've moved twice in the 2 years and it looks like I might move again shortly. Hopefully this will be the last one for a good while and I can set up again.


----------



## BobL

mtngun, that barn roof is looking sensational. do you ever put skylights in the roof? It looks like it would get pretty dark up under that roof?



aggiewoodbutchr said:


> It's still there- but I am not. I've moved twice in the 2 years and it looks like I might move again shortly. Hopefully this will be the last one for a good while and I can set up again.



That's too bad. One of the downsides of all the traveling I've been doing this year is being away from my shop and then I get back and itchin to get started but have an injured left hand that stops me. I also need to enlarge my shop as it is getting dangerously crowded.


----------



## betterbuilt

mtngun said:


> A little more tin ..... getting close, but the last few pieces will be the most time consuming and the most dangerous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered some special shoes for walking on the steel roofing, which I'll have to do to install the cap. Expensive, but not as expensive as a trip to the emergency room.



I always rope myself to the peak and get as far down as I can. It does help to predrill holes in the metal so the screws don't start walking, especially on that last piece. You should be able to get a lot of the screws in from the ladder. You should try to have someone around.


----------



## fiasco

*more from the sled shed project*

I'm making slow progress with the snowmobile shed...






The floor boards are, well, not square or consistent, but a few rips in and out of the shed with a studded snowmobile track will fix that 






Starting to put the posts up. Just nailing stuff together, with a few TimberLock screws here and there. Will do some triangulating links to tighten and square things up. The wall boards will also tighten it up quite a bit.





















Expert joinery...nothing like the little Echo CS-300 for this "precision" work (I'm poking fun at myself here). 






I'll post more pics as I get farther along. Hoping to take a couple hours to modify/improve my CSM so it can make something that resembles square cuts! This project might not make the cover of Fine Shed Building, but I'm having a great time turning trees into a building!


----------



## 820wards

Fiasco,

Cool snow mobile shed your making. Looks like your having fun with your milled wood. Keep the pic's coming.

jerry-


----------



## Hunt'n'photos

Wow, just stumbled on this thread. Really makes me want to start milling! I bought a granberg mill a few months ago, but havent had the time to start trying to figure my way around it yet! 

mtngun, that is an amazing project you have going. I am hoping to start building a a generator shed/workshop up at my cabin next spring. Hoping it turns out even remotely as nice as that!


----------



## smokinj

betterbuilt said:


> I always rope myself to the peak and get as far down as I can. It does help to predrill holes in the metal so the screws don't start walking, especially on that last piece. You should be able to get a lot of the screws in from the ladder. You should try to have someone around.






Awesome!


----------



## mtngun

betterbuilt said:


> You should try to have someone around.


Ya, if I fall off someone will need to dig a grave, otherwise the coyotes will eat the carcass. I'm not afraid of heights, but metal roofs scare me to death. It's like walking on a skating rink.

Finished all metal except for the ridge cap. The special roofing shoes seem to be back ordered, so I'm investigating plan "B." Meanwhile, the forecast calls for several days of wind. Doesn't look like that cap is going on anytime soon.


----------



## Hunt'n'photos

Mtngun,
When I did the tin roof on my cabin I found that the cheep soft rubber knee boots worked really well, even when the roof was wet. My roof was a 12 pitch roof too so pretty steep!


----------



## Fallguy1960

A pair of Tingely band slip on Rubber boots should do the trick they are great on ice. Nice warm steel you should be like spider man.


----------



## mtngun

I tested all the footwear on hand by trying to slide it on a piece of roofing. Also tested various types of foam that were laying around. 

Only shoes worth a darn were snow packs. Guess their soles are very soft for walking on ice.

Only foam worth a darn was from a seat cushion. Might use it as a non-stick pad to hold tools without sliding off the roof.

Meanwhile, the special shoes are supposed to be here late next week. I may wait for them, as I've heard good things about them.


----------



## stipes

*Nice work!!!*



DaltonPaull said:


> mtngun - I love your barn! I remember seeing some pictures of a house you were working on a while ago and that looked great too.
> 
> I'm looking forward to working on a structure at some point in the future but for now I'm concentrating on furniture. Here's an idea I came up with to show off an interesting maple log I snagged that fell onto the side of the road after being killed by ivy. The frame is English walnut that I milled from a yard tree.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hall table with a live edge top from cedar I milled in Idaho. I also milled the cherry from a nail filled yard tree. The black walnut was bought from someone who cut it free hand with a chainsaw - took a lot of work to straighten it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a table I made with a bent laminated base and a book matched top from a lovely walnut log I milled.



I wish I had the skills and tools to build a structure,,I need a barn bad,,but for now,,I'm makin furnuture too...Havent got to do much this summer cause of my work,,but hope this winter,,I have a few things to make for Christmas gifts....


----------



## mtngun

Slab siding to keep the rain and snow from blowing in, until I have time to mill
lumber for board and batten siding.


----------



## deeker

mtngun said:


> Slab siding to keep the rain and snow from blowing in, until I have time to mill
> lumber for board and batten siding.



That looks fantastic!!!

Ready to move my "stuff" in as soon as you say it is okay.

I wish.

Kevin


----------



## BobL

Sensational ! - someone has to say it!.


----------



## twoclones

mtngun said:


> Slab siding to keep the rain and snow from blowing in, until I have time to mill lumber for board and batten siding.



That's such a nice project, makes me want to load up the Woodmizer and come mill the siding for you.


----------



## TNMIKE

Looks really nice. Its will look spectacular when you get the board siding on it.


----------



## striperswaper

another siding option might be Adirondack siding, are you familiar with it?
one cut below the slab with a live edge bottom. when you cut and match the live edge bottoms it can look pretty good

keep the pics coming


----------



## TXcowboy

mtngun said:


> Slab siding to keep the rain and snow from blowing in, until I have time to mill
> lumber for board and batten siding.
> 
> 
> 
> I have to agree with everyone else, that looks great. Amazing work you have done there so far. It will look great with the board and batten siding on it. I know it wouldn't be weather tight like it is, but I kind of like the rustic look of the slab siding you have there now. Keep posting the pics, they are great.
Click to expand...


----------



## stipes

*Awesome!!!!!*



mtngun said:


> Slab siding to keep the rain and snow from blowing in, until I have time to mill
> lumber for board and batten siding.



I wish I had the skill to build something like that!! Great job!!!


----------



## jimdad07

This is a chest I am slowly getting done. The frame is doug fir scrounged off of a jobsite back when I was wiring houses in the Thousand Islands. The dark strip down the middle panel is mahogony that was also scrounged out of the scrap pile on the same house (ended up with a ton of 12" to 18" 5/4" mahogony out of that pile). The rest is maple, poplar and red oak I have been milling up and some I have taken from pallet wood. I made the panels by planing the boards, ripping them into 1/2" wide pieces, drilling and doweling them all together and then running the glued and dried panels through the planer and those are what I ended up with.


----------



## mtngun

Beautiful work on the chest, JimDad.

Finally got the ridge cap installed on the roof.





The foam soles on the Korkers are replaceable. They attach with velcro. Don't last too long, but I couldn't have worked on this 6 in 12 pitch without them.


----------



## DRB

*Bench and saw horse with left over wood*

I was cleaning up my scrape wood piles over the weekend and this is what I ended up with. A bench made of WRC strips left over from a siding project and a set of stacking saw horse made from beatle killed pine off my property. You can't have to many saw horses.


----------



## Brmorgan

DRB said:


> I was cleaning up my scrape wood piles over the weekend and this is what I ended up with. A bench made of WRC strips left over from a siding project and a set of stacking saw horse made from beatle killed pine off my property. You can't have to many saw horses.



Beatle-killed Pine, eh? Would that be Norwegian Wood, by chance? 


Sorry, I just had to...


----------



## pws

hi all newbie here, i'd like to thank you all for the wealth of info i've learnt on this forum
here a couple of pics of a bench i've made with my home made mill
thanks ped


----------



## BobL

pws said:


> hi all newbie here, i'd like to thank you all for the wealth of info i've learnt on this forum
> here a couple of pics of a bench i've made with my home made mill
> thanks ped



Excellent work Ped, what sort of wood is it?


----------



## pws

hi bob the seat back and base are alder and the legs are ash, the plugs covering the fixings are flowering cherry
ped


----------



## stipes

*Nice bench!!!!*

Great job on it!!!


----------



## deeker

PWS welcome to the site!!

Great pics, keep sending them!

Kevin


----------



## stipes

*What I liked,,,*

Kinda a cross of milling and carving with his base...Pretty cool....


----------



## Chris Francis

*Dog house*

I have built an addition to my house that the dogs use as a doghouse. It ties in with my normal roof line, shingles and all. It has a window, a built in air conditioner and heater, concrete slab, power, a dog door, and a people door. Lucky dogs! It is approx. 8' X 8', about the size of a normal bathroom or laundry room... actually bigger than my laundry room. The wife is trying to kick the dogs out and take over it for the laundry room. I really loved the look of the natural wood on the outside, but the moisture and rain splash-back was starting to turn the wood; so we primed and painted it.


----------



## Chris Francis

*Treating wood?*

I really want to build a wood fence all the way around my acre homesite. The design would be similar to that of a white porchrail: 6"X6" posts, 2"X4" rails, then 2"X2" square vertical spindles, then topped off with a 2"X6" rail on the top. All this is milled pine that I want to paint white. Don't forget I am in South Alabama... you know, where the humidity, moisture, and the termites thrive. I am considering sending the posts off to have them pressure treated; I don't see two ways around it. For the rest of the fence, I considered just priming and painting, but I have been told that I would be lucky to get 5-10 years out of it that way. There use to be a product called Copper-Tox (or something like that), but it is outlawed now. Is there a good product I can use to treat the wood that will allow me to paint over it? The only part that will be touching the ground will be the posts; that is why I am leaning toward sending them off. Cost would be prohibitive to send all the wood off though. Thanks.


----------



## smokinj

*9 ft x 3 ft*

Almost done. Black Walnut


----------



## betterbuilt

smokinj said:


> Almost done. Black Walnut









Looking good.


----------



## Timberframed

Good work of that Walnut. Is that a lacquer finish?


----------



## smokinj

Timberframed said:


> Good work of that Walnut. Is that a lacquer finish?



That is minn-wax hand rub. Poly.


----------



## Chris Francis

Still looking for something to treat my wood with. Any ideas?


----------



## smokinj

Chris Francis said:


> Still looking for something to treat my wood with. Any ideas?



I like the poly with no stain look my self.


----------



## Timberframed

I shoot 3-4 sometimes 5 coats of Deft semi gloss lacquer. Finishes like glass!


----------



## Chris Francis

I stumbled on a product I thought was not available any longer... Cop-R-Tox made by BLP Mobile Paints.


----------



## Chris Francis

smokinj said:


> I like the poly with no stain look my self.



Outdoor application where the elements are prevalent:
termites
rain
moisture
humidity
carpenter bees
3-eyed alien bugs
and more.


----------



## Timberframed

What is it


----------



## Chris Francis

Timberframed said:


> What is it



Building a fence out of pine. I also have a few oak posts, but I hate to waste them and paint them.


----------



## smokinj

Chris Francis said:


> Building a fence out of pine. I also have a few oak posts, but I hate to waste them and paint them.



I would think any oil base would work. I thomson water seal.


----------



## Chris Francis

smokinj said:


> I would think any oil base would work. I thomson water seal.



Not here. Termites like the taste of Thompson's


----------



## smokinj

Chris Francis said:


> Not here. Termites like the taste of Thompson's



LOL They must be stronger in the South! lol


----------



## Rudedog

Chris Francis said:


> I stumbled on a product I thought was not available any longer... Cop-R-Tox made by BLP Mobile Paints.



Looks like interesting cover. How long do you find an application lasting when in direct weather? Their website recommends this product for rough sawn/milled lumber.


----------



## Justsaws

Chris Francis said:


> I stumbled on a product I thought was not available any longer... Cop-R-Tox made by BLP Mobile Paints.




I use to use a product to "treat" any wood that was in a moisture area. The original formula was a great product and removed from market. The replacement formulas were not suitable for exterior protection or below grade without further application of an additional sealer as they tended to "wash" away.

If you choose to try one of the currently available formulas be sure to follow the directions and inquire about suitable top coats. The top coats could very well be different for below grade.

These products also became much more expensive and it takes a lot of product as the goal was to saturate the wood at least a 1/4" layer, more being preferable.

I would not know about products being currently availible but before you purchase a product contact a product rep and ask them about your specific application.


----------



## Justsaws

Rudedog said:


> Looks like interesting cover. How long do you find an application lasting when in direct weather? Their website recommends this product for rough sawn/milled lumber.



Recommended use is fungicide and water repellent, exterior only. Just the benefits of copper and no bug poison. The wood will rot slower but the bugs will still eat.

Look at Timbor or any branded borax based insecticide. They are water based salts and must be top coated when used in a non-dry enviroment or exposed to things you do not want to die. I am pretty sure that this is the or at least similar replacement that I was thinking about earlier. 

The Cop R Tox is commonally used to seal any fresh cuts in current treated wood. 

Things that you remember while mulching bark and leaves.


----------



## stonykill

nice work Smokinj!


----------



## stonykill

oak pedestal table. The turning is solid, quite a heavy table.


----------



## Chris Francis

Cop-R-Tox
I talked to the salesman in the store yesterday and looked at the jug of chemical myself. He couldn't answer my questions, so he put me on the phone with the chemist. I got great info to share with you all.
- $15/gallon, slightly less if you buy in bulk
- Covers 300 sq. ft. per gallon if sprayed or brushed on
- Posts that are going into ground should be dry, then soaked into solution for 48 hours (at least the part that is going into the ground)
- Post can go immediately into ground
- If painting with oil base, you can do so in about 24-48 hours after treatment
- If painting with latex, wait 1 week before painting after treatment

I plan to use several 55-gallon drums, fill them approx. half-way, then place the posts into the drums to soak up the solution. Different posts will be going different depths, so different drums will be filled to different levels. I have yet to figure out the following:
- How to keep rain water from entering the drum
- How to lift the heavy posts into and out of the drums
- How to support the posts once they are in the drums

5-gallon buckets may work fine for smaller posts that do not need to go so deep. After fence is put together, I will be painting the Cop-R-Tox onto the rest of it, then waiting a week or so to prime and paint. 

The label says it protects from rot, fungus, and termites.

It is a green color with little odor, but it will turn the wood green. That is of no concern to me because I plan to paint it. Apparently the green may show through the first coat, but not the second.


----------



## Timberframed

Construct a teepee like frame over the drum with a pulley at the top then tarp the whole thing


----------



## Chris Francis

Timberframed said:


> Construct a teepee like frame over the drum with a pulley at the top then tarp the whole thing



I have been thinking about that. Some of the posts are 15'-16' long. I think if I find a good tree branch, I could rig a pulley in it to hoist the posts, then hoist some kind of tarp with the same pulley. Wait, I thought I was an Arborist, and here I am trying to tie something to a tree! We'll see what happens.


----------



## Timberframed

16'rs. That's a little more involved. I was thinking 8'. You need block and tackle.


----------



## mtngun

Laying floor boards in the barn loft. 

Boards are CSM'd doug fir. I debated whether to plane the boards to a consistent thickness, and whether to have some kind of splined or lapped joint, but in the end I merely rounded over the exposed edges, and screwed them down without further ado. It's perfectly functional that way -- by barn standards, anyway -- and I imagine it's how barn loft floors have been constructed for ages.


----------



## Timberframed

Excellent! Whats that green thingo in the back?


----------



## mtngun

Timberframed said:


> Excellent! Whats that green thingo in the back?


Just a box of screws.


----------



## BobL

Looks great mtngun.

Seeing that picture reminded me of when I put the floor into the loft in our place.


It's 16 x 20 ft in area. For the floor I used recycled tongue and groove Wandoo. It has a dry Janka hardness of 3370 lbs so I gave up nailing within two minutes


----------



## jimdad07

BobL said:


> Looks great mtngun.
> 
> Seeing that picture reminded me of when I put the floor into the loft in our place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's 16 x 20 ft in area. For the floor I used recycled tongue and groove Wandoo. It has a dry Janka hardness of 3370 lbs so I gave up nailing within two minutes



Looks good to both Bob and Mtngun. To Bob, how in the heck do you get the panoramic photos? I think those a pretty cool. In my world, I just cleaned out the wood shop for the winter's wood working. I have a stack of oak and poplar that is just to the point of being able to work. I have a good amount of maple started for next winter. Going to be a good season this year.


----------



## mikeb1079

that's a really neat project mtngun. it's cool to see something built out of such substantial materials and not just plantation grown pine! that floor will be around for awhile!


----------



## BobL

jimdad07 said:


> To Bob, how in the heck do you get the panoramic photos? I think those a pretty cool.


Outside I just handhold the camera and shoot away and then let Photoshop stitch them together. Inside it's much trickier. I have a special tripod head that holds the camera in a special location called the nodal point. I uses the special tripod head for the panorama of the loft but if you look closely you will see I did not align stuff all that well when I put the shots together.



> In my world, I just cleaned out the wood shop for the winter's wood working.


I know that feeling well.



> I have a stack of oak and poplar that is just to the point of being able to work. I have a good amount of maple started for next winter. Going to be a good season this year.


Know that feeling well too!


----------



## LAndrews

Here's a closeup of some chestnut I milled a while back as the facing for an aquarium stand cabinet I finished recently. Don't have a focused wide-angle shot but this one nicely shows the grain. Sheet stock is some nice maple plywood and all of it's finished with cherry Watco.


----------



## gumneck

*Cigar Box Guitar...at least my attempt at one*

It turned out decent I think. I put it in as a Christmas Party give away gift and it went over very well. Neck is out of cherry with a fretboard out of sicamore. Scarf joint on the neck at the tuning pegs. Tuned to open G for slide playing. Nut out of deer antler, wired with a piezo. 

Two more coming along for the kids with necks out of oak.


----------



## 820wards

gumneck said:


> It turned out decent I think. I put it in as a Christmas Party give away gift and it went over very well. Neck is out of cherry with a fretboard out of sicamore. Scarf joint on the neck at the tuning pegs. Tuned to open G for slide playing. Nut out of deer antler, wired with a piezo.
> 
> Two more coming along for the kids with necks out of oak.




Now that is cool, nice job!
jerry-


----------



## Chris Francis

Cool guitar, but I gave up after opening the 2nd link. Insert the pics into your post by opening the pic in AS and copy the address bar, then by putting "<img>" then paste the address, then put "</img>" after it. Don't forget the slash in the 2nd one. Whallah! Your pic will appear in the post.


----------



## Chris Francis

*How to post pictures*

Don't type the quotes, just the <>/ and the text inside.


----------



## DaltonPaull

mtngun said:


> I debated whether to plane the boards to a consistent thickness



The loft looks great. If you ever need a smother floor you can always rent a floor sander. I've laid a pretty uneven floor with salvaged T&G and it was just fine after sanding.


----------



## stonykill

just finished this desk made of birch that I milled a few years ago.


----------



## dustytools

Fabulous work Stonykill!! I would love to hear what went into making the legs for the desk. Awesome job.


----------



## 820wards

stonykill said:


> just finished this desk made of birch that I milled a few years ago.




Beautiful! 

jerry-


----------



## stonykill

dustytools said:


> Fabulous work Stonykill!! I would love to hear what went into making the legs for the desk. Awesome job.


 thanks. It's a combination of turning, then a router with a few jigs.


----------



## 820wards

Here are some small jewelry boxes I made for Christmas presents for the females in my family.

The woods are from stuff I have milled.

jerry-


----------



## stonykill

820wards said:


> Here are some small jewelry boxes I made for Christmas presents for the females in my family.
> 
> The woods are from stuff I have milled.
> 
> jerry-



nice!


----------



## sachsmo

Man,

wish I had the knowledge and tools to build these things.

I have some wild Sun-speckled Sycamore, and I'm sure some real cool stuff That is yet to be opened.

Very nice work there Motor City MadMan!


----------



## fiasco

*sled shed progress*

I didn't finish the shed with my own lumber. 

Here's the end of the line for pine I milled myself. Between a new job, my wife being busy with work, a smoked clutch on the chainsaw, and trying to take care of my two young boys, something had to give.

Ended up running up the road to New England Forest Products for a bunch of hemlock and/or pine to finish the job.







I used my own lumber for the back wall. Can you tell? 











The window hole framed out (I really should knock down that sat. dish, since I haven't used it in nearly two years).






Here it is with more of the walls together.






Shed is actually done now (more or less, there's always something to add or improve), but I don't have pictures of the final product. Maybe next week I'll get out and snap a few.

The milling experiment proved I need a bit more preparation time, a lot of drying time, and burned up my little table saw (since replaced with a very used Rockwell that has more power, but still not enough to rip long lengths of green lumber). I have plans for my CSM Mk 1.5 or 2 to get done in the next month or so, and then we'll head back to the fallen pines and make some lumber for the next project (whatever that will be!).

Thanks for all the support!


----------



## BobL

Nice work guys. Stony, I love the desk - it looks warmer than I thought Birch would be - what finish did you use?


----------



## stonykill

BobL said:


> Nice work guys. Stony, I love the desk - it looks warmer than I thought Birch would be - what finish did you use?



clear laquer sealer, then 3 coats of laquer, sanded with 400 inbetween coats. Then I sanded the final coat with 600 and then rubbed the entire piece out with 0000 steel wool. Gives it a super smooth, deep warm look. No stain either, all natural.
THANKS!


----------



## BobL

stonykill said:


> . . . . Gives it a super smooth, deep warm look.



It sure does.


----------



## foursaps

little project me and my father have been working on. 





a new sugar house for our maple syrup boiler. 16x16 timber frame.

all the wood was milled by us, except plywood of course. got about 3/4 of the siding done this weekend. (3/4" chainsaw milled siding, random width from 6" to 15") working weekends only so it's taking a little while.


----------



## jimdad07

Nice work foursaps. I like the landscape around the sugar shanty. Very nice work. That is a beautiful desk by stonykill. Nice work all around.


----------



## Chris Francis

*Copper Tox post treatment rig*

So, here is the rig to treat the posts.






These are the longest ones (at 16 and 17 feet) for a big arbor. The shorter ones will be much easier. 






I used a pulley in the tree to hoist the posts into the barrel. I cheated by using the Dingo. Then I tied the posts to the tree branch for stability.






Looks great, huh? It's a 55 gallon drum. In order to treat 3 feet up the posts (2- 6"X6"), I would have needed 45+ gallons of chemical (at $15 / gallon). This way I didn't have to use as much chemical to get the same effect. I only used 5 gallons. I started with a 55 gallon drum, then put a thick poly pond liner in it, then the posts, then filled in the gaps on the oustide of the liner to push the liner as close to the posts as possible. Then I wrapped it all to keep rain water out. I will leave it over the weekend, then remove the posts on Monday. They should be good to go.... and resist fungus, rot, and insect pests, etc...


----------



## mtngun

Douglas Fir flooring. 

An honest 1" x 6". Edges are relieved. 

Glued down, a couple of finish nails hold each board until the glue sets up.

Honey Brown penetrating oil stain, to be followed by several coats of polyurethane.


----------



## tomtrees58

my next one cherry but to much snow now 36" in 3 weeks


----------



## hautions11

*walnut table*

This is a shaker style tapered leg table with a twist. The front is curved including the drawer front. I milled this tree four years ago and love making things out of it.


----------



## jimdad07

You must be getting into some of those old city trees. That is a great log.


----------



## jimdad07

hautions11 said:


> This is a shaker style tapered leg table with a twist. The front is curved including the drawer front. I milled this tree four years ago and love making things out of it.


 
Great work. Walnut is a great wood to work.


----------



## mtngun

Following up on the douglas fir glue-down floor......

After several coats of poly.





Considering the boards didn't have much figure, I thought the grain popped out out quite nicely. No, the joints aren't as tight as store-bought flooring, but I'm fine with it. The relieved edges camouflage the imperfections.


----------



## betterbuilt

Nice stuff Mtngun. It looks great. I like the cord wood wall also.


----------



## BobL

Awesome work folks - keep posting them pics!


----------



## DRB

Mtngun is that some of the doug fir that you CSMed.

Looks good.


----------



## jimdad07

Mntgun, that is nice work as always.


----------



## mtngun

DRB said:


> Mtngun is that some of the doug fir that you CSMed.


Yep, it started out as 1" boards that I CSM'd two or three years ago. Of course, it was jointed and planed, etc..


----------



## andrewmcintosh

First time poster, but have been lurking for a while. I've gotten some great tips on milling here so thought i'd share what I do. 

I live in the kelowna bc area and do a crap load of mountain bike trail building. I like to build a lot of jumps, and other unique features on my trails. Often these trails are remote enough that milling wood on-site is the only option.

My friend and I blew up 3 husky 2100's before getting a new 395xpw. We are very please with this saws ability.

Here's a custom light weight mill I made






Other random photo's


----------



## devonhubb




----------



## mtngun

Andrew, that's pretty neat.


----------



## mtngun

Red Oak ?


----------



## devonhubb

mtngun said:


> Red Oak ?
> 
> No. It is Post Oak.
> 
> It is loaded with barbed-wire. Maybe it won't split to bad.


----------



## peterrum

*How I spent my summer*

Rebuilt my deck at the cabin. Milled some 4x6 beams, 2x6 joists, and 1x6 deck boards, all out of fir. Took me 6 weeks to dismantle the old deck and build the new.

View attachment 171519


----------



## SDB777

peterrum said:


> Rebuilt my deck at the cabin. Milled some 4x6 beams, 2x6 joists, and 1x6 deck boards, all out of fir. Took me 6 weeks to dismantle the old deck and build the new.
> 
> View attachment 171519


 
How did you attach those posts to that 'joist'?

Awesome place to have a few 'cold-ones' on a nice summer day!!!




Scott B


----------



## peterrum

I attached the 4x6 beams to the posts by cutting a 3x6 recess into the post for the beam to sit in then lag screwed it to the post. Nothing has moved so far. It is a great place to have a cold one or two or three......


----------



## RPM

andrewmcintosh said:


> First time poster, but have been lurking for a while. I've gotten some great tips on milling here so thought i'd share what I do.
> 
> I live in the kelowna bc area and do a crap load of mountain bike trail building. I like to build a lot of jumps, and other unique features on my trails. Often these trails are remote enough that milling wood on-site is the only option.
> 
> My friend and I blew up 3 husky 2100's before getting a new 395xpw. We are very please with this saws ability.


 
Looks like the Gillard area .... ? Nice stunts


----------



## TNMIKE

I really like this thread. Great work all!!


----------



## cgarman

I started a solid oak cabinetmakers workbench, but don't have photos yet. I'll post when it's done.

In the meantime, here's the only other thing I've finished with my lumber. The mantle is 8" x 12" x 7' of red oak from a tree about 20' from my house. Oddly enough, the first fire was built from offcuts of that mantle. Think that's bad karma?


----------



## rarefish383

Wow, I love the fireplace. I'd love to see more. I'm thinkin that's gonna be really good Karma, Joe.


----------



## stonykill

all I didn't mill was the fingerboard, tho I did slot it. Ash body, maple neck. Rosewood fingerboard. 25 inch scale.


----------



## 820wards

stonykill said:


> all I didn't mill was the fingerboard, tho I did slot it. Ash body, maple neck. Rosewood fingerboard. 25 inch scale.


 
Hey Stonykill,

Lead guitar in my band wants me to mill him a piece of ash to make a Strat clone. How thick should I mill the slab for him and what should the w x h be? 

Nice job in the stick!

jerry-


----------



## stonykill

820wards said:


> Hey Stonykill,
> 
> Lead guitar in my band wants me to mill him a piece of ash to make a Strat clone. How thick should I mill the slab for him and what should the w x h be?
> 
> Nice job in the stick!
> 
> jerry-



thanks! to make a strat you need a finished/planed size of 13 wide x 18 long x 1-3/4. I like to mill to 2-1/4 thick, so I can plane thru any checks. I usually mill my guitar slabs 24 inches long with the mill.


----------



## BobL

stonykill said:


> all I didn't mill was the fingerboard, tho I did slot it. Ash body, maple neck. Rosewood fingerboard. 25 inch scale.


 
I really like it! Is the fingerboard rosewood?

Here is Oz we have some excellent fingerboard timbers, two that are relatively commonly used are Gidegee and Mulga.


----------



## stonykill

BobL said:


> I really like it! Is the fingerboard rosewood?
> 
> Here is Oz we have some excellent fingerboard timbers, two that are relatively commonly used are Gidegee and Mulga.


 I bought the fingerboard blank about 5 years ago I think, and forgot I had it. My memeory told me I bought purpleheart, but it doesn't look like it to me. So I'm just calling it, what it sorta looks like. THANKS!


----------



## northwest coast

*picture frame*

i am quite the amateur wood worker, started cs milling last year and have only made one project though i have a list of others to do. this picture frame is yellow cedar (cypress). it blues when it starts to rot but i liked it for this frame. i've been milling 8 to 12 foot 2" and 4" by 20 to 36" wide clear yellow cedar and giving it to some people around here who carve first nations art, as well as stock piling it. (best air freshener ever) 

i use a stihl 076, and a husky 2100 for top cuts. 

the joints are made to resemble a type of first nations bent wood box from the northwest coast.
View attachment 174014
View attachment 174015
View attachment 174016


----------



## 820wards

northwest coast said:


> i am quite the amateur wood worker, started cs milling last year and have only made one project though i have a list of others to do. this picture frame is yellow cedar (cypress). it blues when it starts to rot but i liked it for this frame. i've been milling 8 to 12 foot 2" and 4" by 20 to 36" wide clear yellow cedar and giving it to some people around here who carve first nations art, as well as stock piling it. (best air freshener ever)
> 
> i use a stihl 076, and a husky 2100 for top cuts.
> 
> the joints are made to resemble a type of first nations bent wood box from the northwest coast.
> View attachment 174014
> View attachment 174015
> View attachment 174016








Welcome aboard, looks like you have a new hobby.

jerry-


----------



## betterbuilt

Okay I thought I'd share this. There is a chunk of milled wood in the post. There's also a piece of steel I welded up for support but the rest is Chocolate. I worked on this with a Pastry Chief. It was built to help raise money for children. It was kinda interesting to make.


----------



## 820wards

betterbuilt said:


> Okay I thought I'd share this. There is a chunk of milled wood in the post. There's also a piece of steel I welded up for support but the rest is Chocolate. I worked on this with a Pastry Chief. It was built to help raise money for children. It was kinda interesting to make.


 
Now my wife and daughter would like this. Chocolate, very nice!

jerry-


----------



## StinkyBunny

WOW, just WOW!!! Y'all have a lot to be proud of, beautiful craftsmanship. Looks like I'm going to be buying up some milling supplies from Bailey's here directly.


----------



## thepheniox

Sheds made with western red cedar


----------



## SDB777

thepheniox said:


> Sheds made with western red cedar


 
Way to go....bug resistant sheds :msp_thumbsup:

Just what I'm needing here...just a little larger.




Scott B


----------



## jimdad07

Nice looking sheds you have there.


----------



## cgarman

*Handcrafted walnut bracelets*

Hi folks:

Here's my latest project, a limited edition of 24 solid walnut bracelets. I started a project on Kickstarter - you folks might liek to check it out for your own projects.


View attachment 178747
View attachment 178746


More details are shown on my Kickstarter project page:

Handcrafted Black Walnut Bracelets by Christopher Garman &mdash; Kickstarter

If you'd like to drop by the site and leave a few comments, it would help me get the word out about my project.

Thanks!


----------



## betterbuilt

Cgarman 

I love the bracelet. Is it steam bent?


----------



## cgarman

Thanks for the compliment!

There are 5 layers in total. The inners are soaked in cold water until pliable. When dry, they are glued up one per day, to give plenty of time to dry. The final layer is steamed gently because of the sapwood inclusions. Sapwood is much softer, so it's hard to bend that piece without breaking.

I have another photo on the Kickstarter site, listed under updates. I'd really appreciate some comments there, since it helps boost my visibility on the site.

This is the first time I've built something that wasn't a custom commission, so it should be an interesting project.


----------



## betterbuilt

cgarman said:


> Thanks for the compliment!
> 
> There are 5 layers in total. The inners are soaked in cold water until pliable. When dry, they are glued up one per day, to give plenty of time to dry. The final layer is steamed gently because of the sapwood inclusions. Sapwood is much softer, so it's hard to bend that piece without breaking.
> 
> I have another photo on the Kickstarter site, listed under updates. I'd really appreciate some comments there, since it helps boost my visibility on the site.
> 
> This is the first time I've built something that wasn't a custom commission, so it should be an interesting project.


 


This is milled wood? wow. How thick are the layers?

Where does the money go if you don't hit your goal? 

I was gonna sign up later tonite. I'll be sure to make a comment.


----------



## cgarman

betterbuilt said:


> This is milled wood? wow. How thick are the layers?
> 
> Where does the money go if you don't hit your goal?
> 
> I was gonna sign up later tonite. I'll be sure to make a comment.


 
The layers are about 0.025" each - 5 of them. The one in the photo isn't made with lumber that I've milled, but I'll be trying it with mine soon. I have a ton of red oak, and some maple. The oak is really hard to bend that thin because of the grain structure, so I started with the walnut, which I purchased. I have ideas how to get my milled lumber down that thin (bandsaw, double stick tape, and a surface planer) but haven't tried it yet. Once I perfect that, it's on to some 150 year old American Chestnut...

If I don't make the goal, then nothing happens. The backers' funds are never withdrawn, and I get nothing. It's an all-or-nothing effort, which protects everyone.

Again, thanks for your replies.


----------



## mtngun

Siding installed on both gable ends, minus stain and doors. It took a long time because of the height. 

Siding is 1" douglas fir, random widths. Battens are 3" wide. Windows are merely screened, no budget for store-bought windows. Doors will eventually be made from 1" fir in simple rustic style.


----------



## mikeb1079

looks great mg. love that classic look. that's your casa in the background i presume?


----------



## 820wards

Mntgun,

It's really taking shape, and the siding when you finish will really make it look good. One day you can tell your grand-kids that you milled every board.

jerry-


----------



## mtngun

mikeb1079 said:


> that's your casa in the background i presume?


Yes, my humble abode. It is also still under construction. :msp_rolleyes:


----------



## BobL

Great work MG. House looks good too.


----------



## Holy Mackerel

*Something out of nothing.*

This thread has been a fitting remedy a case of Sunday morning insomnia. 

Here is a picture of an Ash slab table I made out of boredom. 

When I was milling the log I made the mistake of not using long/full length wedges. The short wedges caused the slab to bow and pinch the bar in the middle of the log. 

This slab was badly cupped but I was able to get it rather straight after letting it sit in the sun for a few days. 
My first thought was to shoot the slab with some buck shots and make a very primitive looking butchers table for my cabin in the Catskills. After some consideration I elected to throw some legs on it and call it day. 

View attachment 195917
View attachment 195918
View attachment 195919
View attachment 195920
View attachment 195921


----------



## jimdad07

Nice work there on the table.


----------



## TNMIKE

Nice table


----------



## TNMIKE

Mtngun are your flooring boards not tongue and groove? Just jointed,butted together and glued? Have you noticed any movement in the floor since you laid it?


----------



## mtngun

TNMIKE said:


> Mtngun are your flooring boards not tongue and groove? Just jointed,butted together and glued? Have you noticed any movement in the floor since you laid it?


I assume you are asking about my bedroom floors ? Yes, just jointed and butted together. No movement to speak of as the glue does not let it go anywhere.

Only problem is that the glue I used was water based, so it wetted the boards and made them expand a little. Then as the glue and board dried, naturally the board shrank a little and now the gap between boards is not as tight as it was when I laid the board. Not huge, but it's there if you look closely.

But overall, I'm happy with the floors.

It did take longer installing it this way compared to T&G, and more sanding was required to bring the boards down to the same height, and it was hard to avoid making a mess with the glue. That was the main disadvantage. Otherwise, if you don't mind a rustic look, and if you don't have a way to T&G, the glue down method does work OK.


----------



## TNMIKE

The floor looks good Mtn. You mentioned relieving the edges, how did you do that?


----------



## mtngun

TNMIKE said:


> The floor looks good Mtn. You mentioned relieving the edges, how did you do that?


Router with a round over bit.


----------



## thepheniox

I encased my front steps with a white oak top and cedar sides.


----------



## medic336

Anyone milling cabin logs?


----------



## TraditionalTool

medic336 said:


> Anyone milling cabin logs?


----------



## burningwood

stonykill said:


> I am so bad at remembering to take pictures. Here are a few of my current projects. Both are birch that I milled from my land. The table is shown just stained and with one coat of sealer on the top. I'll finish spraying in the morning. The 2nd table picture is right after I sprayed the sealer, so there is a bit of overspray in the pic. The 2nd piece is a tv cabinet I have been building. That one won't be done for a week or so as its no hurry. I'll post pics of both finished after they are done. The table pics should be here saturday. All the birch was milled with a 48cc 031, 24 inch bar, baileys lp chain.
> 
> 
> KLONDIKE CABIN PLAN
> 
> 
> We are in the process of milling (straight slabbing) for this small cabin we plan on starting next year in the summer or fall.
> 
> 
> bw


----------



## TraditionalTool

burningwood said:


> We are in the process of milling (straight slabbing) for this small cabin we plan on starting next year in the summer or fall.


While I don't care for the term cabin, since it refers to derogatory historical references, I know many people call houses/homes a cabin if they are rustic.

My friend built this saloon last year which has a timber floor. He sold it cheap, around $10k-$12k with the siding. I notice your milling your siding at 1.25", seems a bit thick to me. I plan to use board/batten on some of my inside walls, but will do 5/8" thick for that, so it's easier to work with. Since you will need some type of insulation in the wall, you could probably get away with thinner stock also, but would be a lot of waste using a chainsaw mill.

Anyway, your project reminded me of this saloon...(and yes, he did mill this timber

100% white pine, BW!


----------



## smokinj

TraditionalTool said:


> While I don't care for the term cabin, since it refers to derogatory historical references, I know many people call houses/homes a cabin if they are rustic.
> 
> My friend built this saloon last year which has a timber floor. He sold it cheap, around $10k-$12k with the siding. I notice your milling your siding at 1.25", seems a bit thick to me. I plan to use board/batten on some of my inside walls, but will do 5/8" thick for that, so it's easier to work with. Since you will need some type of insulation in the wall, you could probably get away with thinner stock also, but would be a lot of waste using a chainsaw mill.
> 
> Anyway, your project reminded me of this saloon...(and yes, he did mill this timber
> 
> 100% white pine, BW!


 
Pretty cool deal there!


----------



## 820wards

Headed out rock fishing this weekend after getting skunked salmon fishing last weekend. I made this fish gigger for the deck hand who lost his last weekend. Milled some ash a couple of years ago, so I turned another handle and made the stainless steel pieces so, no rust. Put some stain/sealer on it and Mike will be happy. 

jerry-


----------



## stipes

*What to do with scrapes...*

I'm sorry it's been awhiles for me...I finally been able to get some stuff done and so here we go,,you wonder if you have small stuff laying around and hate to just trow it away,,I always thought that so I bought a scroll saw and damn this little thing is fun.....

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199772&stc=1&d=1316461823

The tv stand I finally got finished and this tv been sitting in the box since Christmas till July...LOL!!!

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199776&stc=1&d=1316462018


----------



## BobL

Good work Stipes!


----------



## PheasantHunter

*Ash blanket chest*

I have to confess up front. The project in the photos is from wood that I only helped to mill. I did cut the tree down and help the sawyer with the Woodmizer to turn the log into lumber. I did the rest myself drying, planing, jointing,etc. The ash blanket chest in the photos has crotch grain panels in the front and the hingles are from Rockler. The wood for the front panels was in my shop for over 10 years before I figured out what I wanted to do with it. I think this was the right use. The finish is polyurathane.

Keep up the good work.


----------



## 820wards

PheasantHunter said:


> I have to confess up front. The project in the photos is from wood that I only helped to mill. I did cut the tree down and help the sawyer with the Woodmizer to turn the log into lumber. I did the rest myself drying, planing, jointing,etc. The ash blanket chest in the photos has crotch grain panels in the front and the hingles are from Rockler. The wood for the front panels was in my shop for over 10 years before I figured out what I wanted to do with it. I think this was the right use. The finish is polyurathane.
> 
> Keep up the good work.


 

Beautiful work! I'll have to send a picture of your ash chest to my friend who had an ash tree with crouch wood cut up because he didn't want to wait to have someone mill it. He's going to feel sick...

Thanks for the pictures.

jerry-


----------



## Rudedog

PheasantHunter said:


> I have to confess up front. The project in the photos is from wood that I only helped to mill. I did cut the tree down and help the sawyer with the Woodmizer to turn the log into lumber. I did the rest myself drying, planing, jointing,etc. The ash blanket chest in the photos has crotch grain panels in the front and the hingles are from Rockler. The wood for the front panels was in my shop for over 10 years before I figured out what I wanted to do with it. I think this was the right use. The finish is polyurathane.
> 
> Keep up the good work.


 
What kind of hinges did you put on that chest. I built some benches in the kitchen and need some decent hinges to attach the tops.


----------



## 7oaks

> ​





PheasantHunter said:


> I have to confess up front. The project in the photos is from wood that I only helped to mill. I did cut the tree down and help the sawyer with the Woodmizer to turn the log into lumber. I did the rest myself drying, planing, jointing,etc. The ash blanket chest in the photos has crotch grain panels in the front and the hingles are from Rockler. The wood for the front panels was in my shop for over 10 years before I figured out what I wanted to do with it. I think this was the right use. The finish is polyurathane.
> 
> Keep up the good work.


 
That's some of the prettiest work I've seen.


----------



## tjbier

Have any more pictures of that? Looks great, I always enjoy a nice timberframe.


TraditionalTool said:


> While I don't care for the term cabin, since it refers to derogatory historical references, I know many people call houses/homes a cabin if they are rustic.
> 
> My friend built this saloon last year which has a timber floor. He sold it cheap, around $10k-$12k with the siding. I notice your milling your siding at 1.25", seems a bit thick to me. I plan to use board/batten on some of my inside walls, but will do 5/8" thick for that, so it's easier to work with. Since you will need some type of insulation in the wall, you could probably get away with thinner stock also, but would be a lot of waste using a chainsaw mill.
> 
> Anyway, your project reminded me of this saloon...(and yes, he did mill this timber
> 
> 100% white pine, BW!


----------



## TraditionalTool

tjbier said:


> Have any more pictures of that? Looks great, I always enjoy a nice timberframe.


There are a couple more pics, but they don't show anything more...this was built by my mentor/friend, Tim Bullock. He built it on spec while the times are slow, and had it a while, but finally sold it. It was designed to be a backyard saloon where someone could keep their Harley inside.

Tim Bullock is very creative, and knocks out small timber frames like this quickly. It even has a timber frame sub floor.

Here's another similar one, with a cool belly ladder and a loft!


----------



## mikeb1079

very impressive alan. i wish that fella lived near me!

how's your build coming along?


----------



## TraditionalTool

mikeb1079 said:


> very impressive alan. i wish that fella lived near me!
> 
> how's your build coming along?


Moving along slowly...but making some progress. I've got one more log before the top plates. Unfortunately the last two 32 foot logs are twisted pretty bad... I haven't been to the yard for a few weeks, had to take my son back down to L.A. for his 3rd year at UCLA. That took a whole weekend last week.

These 28 footers are in pretty good shape, they will be the top plates on the 28 foot sides.






This is the better of the last 32 footers I have, it's going up on the stack. After it is put up, it will match the one on the top right side of the above photo, then the 28 foot top plates will go on, and get the top flattened on the sawmill, and the last 32 footer will be split into 2 half logs and used for the adjoining top plates.

Looking forward to getting the logs cleaned up, they're filthy...


----------



## PheasantHunter

*Rockler*



Rudedog said:


> What kind of hinges did you put on that chest. I built some benches in the kitchen and need some decent hinges to attach the tops.


 
The hinges are from Rockler (torsion hinges), they are modeled after laptop computer hinges. Rockler has a formula their website based on weight and length of top for how many and what size you need. They run about $20 a piece.


----------



## mtngun

A little more progress on the barn.

Wind bracing and girts. That's what takes all the time.





Then the siding goes pretty fast.





One more wall of siding remaining, then the outside will be done. Still lots of bracing to do on the inside, though. I've got about $2500 into it.


----------



## 820wards

mtngun said:


> A little more progress on the barn.
> 
> Wind bracing and girts. That's what takes all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the siding goes pretty fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more wall of siding remaining, then the outside will be done. Still lots of bracing to do on the inside, though. I've got about $2500 into it.



Mtngun,

That is a nice looking barn. Looks like you'll be able to store plenty of stuff up top as well. Makes the small poll shed I built this year look sick.
jerry-


----------



## TraditionalTool

Very nice indeed mtngun!


----------



## thepheniox

I give away some of my scrap pieces to a neighbor that turns wood. A few months ago I gave him a Burl I cut from a tree. Not that it is really milled wood it's still pretty cool. He dropped this little bowl off today for me.


----------



## 820wards

thepheniox said:


> I give away some of my scrap pieces to a neighbor that turns wood. A few months ago I gave him a Burl I cut from a tree. Not that it is really milled wood it's still pretty cool. He dropped this little bowl off today for me.




Very Nice! I think you need to give him more.
jerry-


----------



## BobL

Love the Barn mtngun.


----------



## mtngun

Siding complete.

Still have to make the main entrance door, and I'm out of materials, so it may not get done this year. Still needs lots of wind bracing on the inside, still needs a stair to the loft, and I need to build shelves, racks, etc., to get it organized, so it'll drag on for perhaps another year.


----------



## caspa

The barn my chainsaw built


----------



## Chris Francis




----------



## Chris Francis

View attachment 207283

View attachment 207285












Obviously, this is still under construction, but we had to add a bathroom and some office space. We used rough milled pine for most everything. Notice the throne height; you gotta do what you gotta do to make it go down hill.


----------



## Chris Francis

Some walls have plywood behind them, but the ones that do not, we used black felt behind the 1/2" boards. They will shrink and I didn't want to see through the walls, or see insulation, or give bugs a place to hide. Very rustic!!!!


----------



## huskyhank

Great work!!
Congratulations.



mtngun said:


> Siding complete.
> 
> Still have to make the main entrance door, and I'm out of materials, so it may not get done this year. Still needs lots of wind bracing on the inside, still needs a stair to the loft, and I need to build shelves, racks, etc., to get it organized, so it'll drag on for perhaps another year.


----------



## canoeral

Stools I built out milled walnut and butternut.


----------



## betterbuilt

canoeral said:


> Stools I built out milled walnut and butternut.



Very Nice. Do you have any closer pictures of the seats.


----------



## hamish

mtngun said:


> Siding complete.
> 
> Still have to make the main entrance door, and I'm out of materials, so it may not get done this year. Still needs lots of wind bracing on the inside, still needs a stair to the loft, and I need to build shelves, racks, etc., to get it organized, so it'll drag on for perhaps another year.



Ok Dan a year from now when you are done your barn, pack up your gear, I would luv to have a barn like that.


----------



## canoeral

Here is the seat it is a simple weave on a frame.


----------



## hardhat

Sold a 5200. Used scrap oak lumber milled from a tree the 5200 cut down to make a shipping box for the saw. Final shipping weight 60 lbs. Cost $36 to ship. Didn't think that was too bad.


----------



## Timberframed

Spent the weekend keeping an eye on my boys "Dad! Sawyer spilled a bowl of beefaroni all over Grandpa's couch" and in between putting out the little fires got started on shop milling slabs into face frame and solid panel stock. White Ash loaded with feather grain/tiger stripes. This is a paying job.











Target project. The tops and footboards will be solid Ash with an Ebony/esspresso finish. Won' be quite this big.


----------



## tjbier

Do you have any more pics of this project? Looks great, time well spent in my opinion!
I am going to do a timber frame at some point and just trying to get some schooling :smile2:



curlybirtch said:


> Almost there


----------



## xabub

urbanlumberinc said:


> I posted some of these in a different thread, but here's pictures of some projects I've made recently.



Great work! This is exactly why I'm getting into chainsaws and mills. I just got a 066. The 36" bar and alaskan 776 is in the mail. Along with a ripping chain.

I milled some cottonwood. I know it's not the greatest wood to work with, but it was such a big old tree trunk I simply couldn't waste it. As long as it stays out of the weather it should do great. They used to build barns with cottonwood back in the day.

Sorry tangent.

I'll try and put up a photo. The wood is still drying...can't make anything with it until it dries. It ought to shrink a lot.


----------



## xabub

hamish said:


> Ok Dan a year from now when you are done your barn, pack up your gear, I would luv to have a barn like that.





That barn is phenominal


----------



## Old Blue

mtngun said:


> A little more progress on the barn.
> 
> Wind bracing and girts. That's what takes all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the siding goes pretty fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more wall of siding remaining, then the outside will be done. Still lots of bracing to do on the inside, though. I've got about $2500 into it.



It is #####in. Am I allowed to say that?

Old Blue


----------



## Dave Boyt

Traditional tool, do you have any info on how he cut those curved timbers? I like the effect!


----------



## Nato

*swing set*

this is a swing set that i'm building for my daughter. the roof and the walls are live edge pin oak. the pipe is 48 inch i.d.x 6 feet. and the rest i cheated and gave in and bought treated lumber. i have to hang the swings this weekend and thats about it. i built it so it can be torn down into a couple pieces for sale once my little girl out grows it. what do you guys think 10 bucks?!:msp_tongue:


----------



## billstuewe

I recently finished building this mesquite dining table for a client complete with turned bowls. It is 10' long by 48" wide by 12" thick.
There is a pictorial write up of building it on my website under the Building a Table tab. www.wix.com/billstuewe/billswoodshop

*I logged 112 hours working on this table over a six week time period, not including many hours of help from friends
99 ½ hours were spent grinding the bark and sapwood off, planing, epoxying, assembling and sanding the table, 12 ½ hours finishing it

*4 ½ gallons of epoxy were used to fill the cracks and voids and stabilize the punky areas. A quart of thin super glue was also used to solidify the punkiest areas prior to filling with epoxy

*8 coats of Waterlox were applied to all surfaces (approximately a gallon total) These were applied by hand, rubbed in, then wiped off, building the lustrous finish. After the final coat, the top was hand rubbed with 0000 steel wool, sanded through 1500grit sandpaper and then buffed
(Time-wise, 16 coats were applied because once 8 coats were applied and dry all the parts were turned over the other side was finished with 8 coats.)


http://www.arboristsite.com/attachments/milling-saw-mills/229145d1331867242-mesquite-table-bowls_5727-jpg



http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=229143&d=1331866698


----------



## peterrum

I think I will say it for all of us Bill, nice table.


----------



## 820wards

peterrum said:


> I think I will say it for all of us Bill, nice table.




Yeah Bill, really nice work!

jerry-


----------



## BobL

peterrum said:


> I think I will say it for all of us Bill, nice table.



Too right, I would be real proud of something like that.


----------



## BobL

Dave Boyt said:


> Traditional tool, do you have any info on how he cut those curved timbers? I like the effect!



If a curved guide board (ie curved steel plate) and narrow chainsaw bar is used it is possible to CS mill those curves.


----------



## ROOTSXROCKS

billstuewe said:


> I recently finished building this mesquite dining table for a client complete with turned bowls. It is 10' long by 48" wide by 12" thick.
> There is a pictorial write up of building it on my website under the Building a Table tab.
> 
> *I logged 112 hours working on this table over a six week time period, not including many hours of help from friends
> 99 ½ hours were spent grinding the bark and sapwood off, planing, epoxying, assembling and sanding the table, 12 ½ hours finishing it
> 
> *4 ½ gallons of epoxy were used to fill the cracks and voids and stabilize the punky areas. A quart of thin super glue was also used to solidify the punkiest areas prior to filling with epoxy
> 
> *8 coats of Waterlox were applied to all surfaces (approximately a gallon total) These were applied by hand, rubbed in, then wiped off, building the lustrous finish. After the final coat, the top was hand rubbed with 0000 steel wool, sanded through 1500grit sandpaper and then buffed
> (Time-wise, 16 coats were applied because once 8 coats were applied and dry all the parts were turned over the other side was finished with 8 coats.)
> 
> 
> (I can never remember how to make the picture open in the reply automatically--if someone can fix it I would appreciate it.)
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=229143&d=1331866698



Fantastic ,


----------



## mikeb1079

well i finally have something to add to this thread. black walnut dining room table and benches i made for my brother inna rustic style.











this is how it started:






it was my first real woodworking project. lots of learning but satisfying for sure.


----------



## MHouse1028

wow guys you make some impressive stuff!!View attachment 231919
View attachment 231920
View attachment 231922
View attachment 231923
.....her's a few things i have crafted .maple picnic table-ash island top-cutting board


----------



## stonykill

I don't think I put this one up yet. Milled the wood and turned the pedestal. 

finished it rustic of course.....


View attachment 231975


----------



## ROPECLIMBER

Great Thread, makes me want to get into wood working, I did this coffee table top cross cut from a 120 foot pecan blowover in Montel TX, was a cross cut 20 ffeet up with bark was 52" now it has checked and bleached out from some kind of fungus should have dried it longer, have a friend in Beorne that mills wood on halfs when I run across stuff he wants is sitting on the logs from a couple of mesquite trees and he milled this cedar elm it is real hard has been in garage for 2 years and wore out 3 belts sanding it on both sides, thanks to all of the craftsman who have posted thier skill and knowledge,
PaulView attachment 232001
View attachment 232002


----------



## Timberwerks

Here are a few items:


----------



## rarefish383

A few months back I picked up an old Lickity Split Log Splitter. The chasis is made up of a of angle iron and a wood deck. The angle is cracked where the axle goes through on both sides, and the wood deck is a little less than atractive. I have some heavier gauge angle and plan on making a new frame. Instead of using some 2X10 and painting it yellow for a new deck I decided to use some of the White Birch I milled up. Since I have plenty of angle I plan on extending the deck 10 or 12 inches to mount a battery for the new engine. The old engine was an eight hp Kohler pull start. The new engine is a 12 hp Kohler electric start off an old Cub Cadet. Since the Cub has a full electrical system I'm going to scavange the wiring and head lights and make a fold down light bar mounted to the back, for those early fall evenings. Here's a couple pics of the Birch and machine. 

The White Birch right after I milled it.






I think several coats of Spar Urathane will look better than the old yellow deck. To cut the board I clamped a straight edge to the plank and ran my circular saw down the edges. Then I ran the board through the planer till I had all of the chatter marks cleaned up.





Last is a pic of the old Lickity. Once every thing is all media blasted, painted, and put back together I think that Birch deck will be right slick, Joe.


----------



## 820wards

rarefish383 said:


> A few months back I picked up an old Lickity Split Log Splitter. The chasis is made up of a of angle iron and a wood deck. The angle is cracked where the axle goes through on both sides, and the wood deck is a little less than atractive. I have some heavier gauge angle and plan on making a new frame. Instead of using some 2X10 and painting it yellow for a new deck I decided to use some of the White Birch I milled up. Since I have plenty of angle I plan on extending the deck 10 or 12 inches to mount a battery for the new engine. The old engine was an eight hp Kohler pull start. The new engine is a 12 hp Kohler electric start off an old Cub Cadet. Since the Cub has a full electrical system I'm going to scavange the wiring and head lights and make a fold down light bar mounted to the back, for those early fall evenings. Here's a couple pics of the Birch and machine.
> 
> The White Birch right after I milled it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think several coats of Spar Urathane will look better than the old yellow deck. To cut the board I clamped a straight edge to the plank and ran my circular saw down the edges. Then I ran the board through the planer till I had all of the chatter marks cleaned up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last is a pic of the old Lickity. Once every thing is all media blasted, painted, and put back together I think that Birch deck will be right slick, Joe.




You'll have to post some pictures when your done. 
jerry-


----------



## rapattack

*chain saw milled gazebo*

I love looking at every ones work, just wanted to contribute to the post with a project i did last year. All of the wood was milled with a Granberg alaskan mill and 288xp.


----------



## 820wards

rapattack said:


> I love looking at every ones work, just wanted to contribute to the post with a project i did last year. All of the wood was milled with a Granberg alaskan mill and 288xp.



Did you build that with Doug Fir? You did a very nice job on it, thanks for posting the pictures.

jerry-


----------



## rapattack

820wards said:


> Did you build that with Doug Fir? You did a very nice job on it, thanks for posting the pictures.
> 
> jerry-


The beams, posts and rafters is douglas fir, the fascia and soffit is cedar. I appreciate your interest and compliment.


----------



## Dave Boyt

That's some of the nicest chain saw work I've seen. Beautiful joinery.


----------



## irishcountry

WOW awesome !!! Very nice work indeed !!


----------



## 820wards

*Hickory Drum Sticks*

Had a member Les-Or-More send me some Bitternut Hickory this past December. We don't have hickory here in CA, so he sent me a box. 

Here are some pictures of the sticks I turned today. Les, thanks again!

jerry-

Picture of stick tip roughed out.





Stick in my old Montgomery Ward lathe, just put all new bearings in it and it works great! The motor is DC variable speed motor from a tread mill.






Sticks next to a piece of the bitternut wood. These pieces were just the right size to make a pair of sticks.






The sticks weight are right at 4 oz.







Here are the finished sticks sitting at my Leedy drum kit. They are patterned after a 5AL (Long) stick that I like when I play. I'll show them to the guys/gal in my band this week at practice.


----------



## Old Blue

*Cool...*

Paradiddle on.

Old Blue


----------



## 820wards

Old Blue said:


> Paradiddle on.
> 
> Old Blue



How about a flam-paradiddle with a flam triplet at the end.

jerry- :cool2:


----------



## brookpederson

[video=youtube_share;BrH1onu2YuM]http://youtu.be/BrH1onu2YuM[/video]

Someday I'm gonna make a big one. This was just a bit of an experiment, the blades were elm scrap cuttoffs from some table legs. Put it up on the old TV arial bracket.


----------



## captndavie

mtngun said:


> Siding complete.
> 
> Still have to make the main entrance door, and I'm out of materials, so it may not get done this year. Still needs lots of wind bracing on the inside, still needs a stair to the loft, and I need to build shelves, racks, etc., to get it organized, so it'll drag on for perhaps another year.



I would like to see a seperate thread on the construction of this beautiful building! Love it!


----------



## twoclones

*Slab Art*

I milled some thick slabs from a short pine log that was given to me and tried my hand at some Northwest Native style art. These are about 45" long x 21" wide.


----------



## twoclones

and these are 4" thick x 58" long cottonwood slabs. I plan to carve eagles, woodspirits, or something into the backs...


----------



## 820wards

twoclones said:


> I milled some thick slabs from a short pine log that was given to me and tried my hand at some Northwest Native style art. These are about 45" long x 21" wide.



Those are really cool looking and the paint really makes the carving stand out. Thanks for sharing.

jerry-


----------



## Sawyer Rob

I built this reloading bench out of a couple of ash logs i harvested, and then milled them on my BSM.






It has no fasteners in it and doesn't flex at all! 

This thread is really long, i hope i didn't already post this here, cause i can't remember for sure! lol

SR


----------



## mrkcruzr

My father pulled his Alaskan Mill out for me after it was in the attic for about 15 yrs, the first log we milled together was a Carpenter Ant infested Black Cherry. So for Fathers Day this year I made this coffee table out of it. There are wood dowels through it in some areas to strengthen it and the base is White Pine that was CSMed as well.


----------



## stonykill

mrkcruzr said:


> My father pulled his Alaskan Mill out for me after it was in the attic for about 15 yrs, the first log we milled together was a Carpenter Ant infested Black Cherry. So for Fathers Day this year I made this coffee table out of it. There are wood dowels through it in some areas to strengthen it and the base is White Pine that was CSMed as well.



that is very cool! great job!


----------



## mrkcruzr

Thanks!


----------



## sachsmo

cool,


had some pieces leaning against the wall out in the shed.

needed some shelves to put the 'maters on;


----------



## sachsmo




----------



## BobL

*Pizza Oven Gazebo*

A few years ago I milled some Jarrah Hardwood slabs for some friends of mine who live on a farm in the South West of Western Australia.

This is one of the things they turned the slabs into.
Well at least the Pizza Oven table and the seating around the outside.


----------



## Dog_River

Hello Guys,

Has anyone built a bed ? I would like to build a rough heavy duty bed out of pine I have. 

I like heavy duty ! post em up !

Thanks in advance

Dog_River


----------



## lone wolf

View attachment 268371


----------



## lone wolf

View attachment 268373


----------



## lone wolf

View attachment 268376


----------



## 1947wdx

*Spalted Birch Box*

Here's a box I made as a gift out of some spalted birch I milled up with my band mill about a year and a half ago... (Been air drying since then.) The birch for the box is made from one board. The corners are mitred to make the spalting lines wrap around the box as much as possible. The walnut for the drawer fronts I had to purchase... 











View attachment 268378


View attachment 268379


----------



## sachsmo

nice dresser,

but I REALLY like the old Dodges.


----------



## 1947wdx

sachsmo said:


> nice dresser,
> 
> but I REALLY like the old Dodges.



Thanks, should have put the dimensions in the original... It's only 16 inches wide by 10 inches high/deep. So not quite a dresser, more like a really deep spice box of sorts.

The older Dodges are nice. I don't get as much time to play with them as I used to, but I still like tinkering when I can...


----------



## Rudedog

Dog_River said:


> Hello Guys,
> 
> Has anyone built a bed ? I would like to build a rough heavy duty bed out of pine I have.
> 
> I like heavy duty ! post em up !
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Dog_River



Me too. I'd like to try my hand at one.


----------



## kimosawboy

Here are a few pictures of a four poster bed I completed a few years ago. This is all spalted maple that I milled up. All the components are bookmatched in some order, so the bottom rails are bookmatched and the top rails are out of the same piece of wood, same with the uprights. The headboard and footboard are separate pieces that connect with the rails via Lap joints. (When assembled it’s a very tight fit, with no flopping about).The finish is varathane natural oil .

G Vavra


----------



## TreeGuyHR

mrkcruzr said:


> Thanks!



I'd make sure to keep it inside -- Pileated woodpeckers LOVE carpenter ants, and if one could get to the table, it would tear it to shreds thinking some were still inside!


----------



## lumberjackchef

Couple of projects from this year......

First is a 38" Cedar Pub table with Ash longhorn inlay and slab skull accents on the feet of the table.







Second is a 7'x4' Catalpa slab sign I was commissioned to carve for some local residents at our lake. I actually ended up doing two of these one for each entrance to the lake!




Another commissioned carving on a catalpa slab of the marine corps emblem!!!


----------



## sachsmo

nice work Chef,

you may appreciate what these hold,








Nothin' like opening a jar of Sunshine when the snow is flying.


----------



## lumberjackchef

Yeah and there is nothing like the flavor of homegrown tomatoes that don't taste like the cardboard that they are packaged in! Great looking storage shelves too!


----------



## Mac88

Mrs put up around 100 quarts this year. Our shelves are just old barn siding, not nearly as fancy as live-edged. ;o)


----------



## Brian Harnett

My Latest projects the maple table wood just came out of my kiln last weekend it was from a tree that came down from hurricane sandy. the darker wood is sapele I bought that from a supplier

The other table is beech with Sapele in the center the Beech I milled.

The workbench is made from spruce all milled with cs mill



IMG_3216 by Brian Harnett, on Flickr




IMG_3215 by Brian Harnett, on Flickr




IMG_3213 by Brian Harnett, on Flickr




IMG_3155 by Brian Harnett, on Flickr




IMG_3152 by Brian Harnett, on Flickr


----------



## lone wolf

Nice work there no doubt. How are the legs attached?


----------



## Brian Harnett

lone wolf said:


> Nice work there no doubt. How are the legs attached?




The legs are tenoned right through the top and wedged no mechanical fasteners are used.




IMG_3187 by Brian Harnett, on Flickr


----------



## lone wolf

How could I make legs for a slab table like this?View attachment 270848


I am not sure do I need a tenon cutter to make the job nice if so which size is proper? How do you get that butterfly shaped end on the leg ?


----------



## Brian Harnett

lone wolf said:


> How could I make legs for a slab table like this?View attachment 270848
> 
> 
> I am not sure do I need a tenon cutter to make the job nice if so which size is proper? How do you get that butterfly shaped end on the leg ?




I have a computer controlled router I use to cut the joints.

Before that I used to use templates and a router to make joints more time consuming but doable.

A real easy attractive joint is drill though the top into the leg and insert a dowel and put a wedge in the top of the dowel to hold tight, looks good and you have no alignment issues.


----------



## lone wolf

Thanks good tip.


----------



## sachsmo

Brian Harnett said:


> I have a computer controlled router I use to cut the joints.
> 
> Before that I used to use templates and a router to make joints more time consuming but doable.
> 
> A real easy attractive joint is drill though the top into the leg and insert a dowel and put a wedge in the top of the dowel to hold tight, looks good and you have no alignment issues.



AHHH,

so that is how you get those inlays so nice!


Thanks for the tip on the wedged dowels. I will put that to use.


----------



## lone wolf

sachsmo said:


> AHHH,
> 
> so that is how you get those inlays so nice!
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip on the wedged dowels. I will put that to use.


Tell me about the cutting of the wedge in the dowel , what do you cut it with, what do you use for wedges how thick should they be?


----------



## Brian Harnett

lone wolf said:


> Tell me about the cutting of the wedge in the dowel , what do you cut it with, what do you use for wedges how thick should they be?



I use a bandsaw and cut freehand I cut the taper an inch or more the wedges are cut the same way since they are a wedge joint the angle is not super critical to still have a tight fit.

A handsaw will work in place of the bandsaw.


----------



## BlueRider

Only put glue on one side of the wedge. if you glue both sides you have a greater risk of the dowel coming loose due to seasonal changes. it is better to have a slight cup shaped gap on one side of the wedge with the edges of the dowel still glued than the wedge glued tightly and the dowel coming loose. it is only a sligh thing but it can cause a leg to come loose.


----------



## Brian Harnett

BlueRider said:


> Only put glue on one side of the wedge. if you glue both sides you have a greater risk of the dowel coming loose due to seasonal changes. it is better to have a slight cup shaped gap on one side of the wedge with the edges of the dowel still glued than the wedge glued tightly and the dowel coming loose. it is only a sligh thing but it can cause a leg to come loose.



I have to say in all the years I have been doing it that has never happened to any joint of mine, Is this from actual experience?


----------



## lone wolf

Brian Harnett said:


> I have to say in all the years I have been doing it that has never happened to any joint of mine, Is this from actual experience?



Only if the wood is not dry enough I see it happen.


----------



## Sawyer Rob

Brian Harnett said:


> I have to say in all the years I have been doing it that has never happened to any joint of mine, Is this from actual experience?



I've never had it happen either......and i've been using that joint on and off since the 70's...

SR


----------



## Brian Harnett

*Dining table and benches*

The table is made from all wood I milled and dried in my kiln. The legs on the benches are an African hardwood sapele I bought.

Just love the hard maple I milled up a lot of really nice boards.



DSCN0056 by Brian Harnett, on Flickr




DSCN0053 by Brian Harnett, on Flickr


----------



## 820wards

Brian,

Beautiful job!

jerry-


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Got the beech that i had milled mid summer back from the kiln today. Had the sawmill plan it down to 7/8" from 5/4" so i dont have so much planning to do. It cracked up alot, but hopefully theres enough good wood to build a dressor or a bed frame with drawers.






Gonna make a clock out of this piece of tulip tree.


----------



## Brian Harnett

2treeornot2tree said:


> Got the beech that i had milled mid summer back from the kiln today. Had the sawmill plan it down to 7/8" from 5/4" so i dont have so much planning to do. It cracked up alot, but hopefully theres enough good wood to build a dressor or a bed frame with drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna make a clock out of this piece of tulip tree.



I am putting a big load of spalted beech in my kiln tomorrow.


----------



## BobL

Remember this?



Well I was back down at the farm for 9 days helping my friends set up the new woodshop and building a new workbench from logs I milled for them back in 2009.
New Panel Saw, Bandsaw, planers, sanders plus a heap of Festool power tools


Here is a shot of the shop the timber being used for the workbench



Apart from the top which is biscuit and glued there is no glue or metal fasteners used to join the pieces in the base.
The base is held together using 3/4" hand made Jarrah (Hardwood) dowels



Here is a close up of one of the joints



Here is a pic of Sandi making the dowels


Sandi is a fast learner and did about half of the work on the bench, plus she looks after their small herd of cattle and keeps cooking up a country storm every night in the kitchen

Finished product - it's getting a Lee Valley twin screw vice on it as well



It sure was fun setting up a brand new workshop (I also went shopping with them for the woodworking machines) from scratch.

Plus I can go and use this shop anytime I like - pity it's 5 hours away


----------



## BobL

I wouldn't worry about adding a clock - it would just detract from the great shape and feel of that piece. I have similar pieces just hanging on the wall like that so that I can appreciate them for the wood.


----------



## PhilB

Bob,

That bench looks like it will last at least a hundred years. Nice craftsmanship.

Phil


----------



## Brian Harnett

Nice looking bench, what kind of snake is hanging out under the log?


----------



## qbilder

Brian Harnett said:


> Nice looking bench, what kind of snake is hanging out under the log?



Obviously not a poisonous one :msp_scared: Good eyes


----------



## strangersfaces

Brian Harnett said:


> Nice looking bench, what kind of snake is hanging out under the log?



Answer in Post #8 from BobL's "*Milling Holiday number 2*" thread...


----------



## stonykill

real nice Bob


----------



## 820wards

BobL said:


> Remember this?




Bob,

Shop looks like a great place to hang out and do some serious wood working. That bench looks real nice, and I'll bet it's real sturdy? I think it's time to do an addition to your shop. :msp_biggrin:

jerry-


----------



## Walnut33

Walnut.


----------



## Dave Boyt

Nice clean design, and the sapwood really frames in the heartwood... and you managed to saw straight through three walnuts that a squirrel had hidden in that hole. What are the chances? I always like to see creative use of "defects" like that void. Nice work!


----------



## brookpederson

A few sign's I've been working on. View attachment 287414
View attachment 287415
View attachment 287416
View attachment 287417
View attachment 287418


----------



## sachsmo

Gottra luv that creative "fill job"

Nice, Nice work.


----------



## rarefish383

Yep, like the walnut inclusion, Joe.


----------



## 820wards

*What We Have Been Making With Our Milled Wood*

Bluerider and myself have partnered together to build tables/stools and other smalls for local and Art/Wine Festivals. Here are some of the items we will be making for sale at these festivals. 

jerry-

These are cutting boards made from walnut that have a live edge on one edge. The board on the far right shows where the black walnut and the Clairol Walnut were grafted. Center board is sycamore.

View attachment 287506


Stool is made from live edge hand carved Black Walnut with custom made steel frame with splayed leg ends. Stool legs also have adjustable levelers and the metal is steel blued.

View attachment 287507


Wine side table is made from milled live edge Black Oak. We believe the brown streak at front right edge was caused when the tee was hit by lightening which broke the tree and caused it to come down. I have made the metal frame with adjustable splayed leg ends and is also finished with a steel blue. Future tables will incorporate a wine bottle storage rack system in place of the lower shelf. 

View attachment 287508


Wine toppers made from various California woods displayed in a piece of spalted Liquid Amber wood.

View attachment 287513


Here is Bluerider putting on the final finish on his carved stool seat.

View attachment 287514


----------



## 7oaks

Walnut33 said:


> Walnut.



Beautiful, creative work!


----------



## Brian Harnett

Maple top Sapele legs the maple I milled from a blowdown from hurricane sandy I am thinking of doing some chairs in this style.


----------



## 7oaks

Very, Very nice and creative!!!


----------



## PheasantHunter

Very cool design. I am curious how you dried the wood if it is a blowdown for Sandy, kiln?


----------



## brookpederson

CD cover frames, reclaimed red oak frame W/ spalted silver maple and pheasant painting and a ERC frame for a painting. I can't take credit for the pheasant painting, that's the old man's work.


View attachment 290377
View attachment 290378
View attachment 290379


----------



## Brian Harnett

PheasantHunter said:


> Very cool design. I am curious how you dried the wood if it is a blowdown for Sandy, kiln?


 Yes I kiln dried it. after researching kilns I made one using a kerosene torpedo heater and dehumidifier I run the heater the first two days at 140 to kill any bugs and fungus, then switch over to the dehumidifier it takes a month on average to get 8%, I am getting quite a pile of unique wood slabs.


----------



## PheasantHunter

Brian Harnett said:


> Yes I kiln dried it. after researching kilns I made one using a kerosene torpedo heater and dehumidifier I run the heater the first two days at 140 to kill any bugs and fungus, then switch over to the dehumidifier it takes a month on average to get 8%, I am getting quite a pile of unique wood slabs.




That sounds like a great set-up.


----------



## Mike Cantolina

Brian Harnett said:


> Maple top Sapele legs the maple I milled from a blowdown from hurricane sandy I am thinking of doing some chairs in this style.



OK, I'll say it. Great legs!


----------



## Fallguy1960

Here is a bench I bench that I built will the scrap slabs. It is patterned after a Leopold bench. This my first attempt at up loading a picture.




View attachment 293841


----------



## Dave Boyt

Nice clean design. I like it! What kind of wood?


----------



## gr8scott72

So a few months ago I built a loft bed out of just some plain pine for my 4 year old daughter. It came out great and she loves it. Even has toy box up top. 





















Stained with a light color and then about 6 coats of Polycrylic. 

Continued in next post.


----------



## gr8scott72

Next, I wanted to build another one for my 2 year old daughter. This time I wanted to make use of some of my red oak slabs. I used my slabs for the sides of the stairs and for the toy box. The rest if the wood was red oak that I bought from Home Depot. 

I left the natural edge on the stair rails and the toy box lid. 

Finished it with 4 coats of Waterlox. That stuff is AMAZING! Wow does it ever make red oak pop.


----------



## cityslicker

Here is a table I made from a sequoia slab I milled a few years ago. The legs are solid 6"x6" torched fir, It is about six feet long and 4 feet wide.

View attachment 293863


----------



## Fallguy1960

Sorry Dave I have been away for a while. It is Slippery elm, the tree was on the property line and growing over the neighbors house so we took it down. Now I have to get a picture of the mill frame I built that I used to mill the log.


----------



## Stu in Tokyo

A garden Bench


----------



## Brian Harnett

Stu in Tokyo said:


> A garden Bench



Nice,
did you build the bench it is on?


----------



## Stu in Tokyo

Thank you!













Yes I did, a short Roubo style bench.


----------



## Brian Harnett

*Red pine railings for a log cabin*

Should be installing the railings this weekend red pine is very aromatic and seems to have a bit more sap than white.

The railings are mortised to receive the balusters, after tenoning the balusters they were bandsawed and textured, I used an arbortech pro cutter with a makita grinder mounted in an old stihl 170 handle assembly the throttle trigger operates a switch to turn it on.


----------



## Stu in Tokyo

Brian, that is a whole lot of work 

Will this be an outside or inside railing?

I got my little bench done.....





The wife loves it and has claimed it for herself, so I have to get busy and make another one for my buddy.





The wedged through tenons are kind of neat :msp_biggrin:


----------



## Brian Harnett

Nice job Stu, a lot of my stuff gets a wedged tenon, looks good and tightens up the joint nice.


----------



## Brian Harnett

Installed the railings this weekend still need to do the stairs and sand - stain.


----------



## Stu in Tokyo

Brian Harnett said:


> Installed the railings this weekend still need to do the stairs and sand - stain.




That looks really great!


----------



## qbilder

Brian Harnett said:


> Installed the railings this weekend still need to do the stairs and sand - stain.



Looks outstanding!!! Hope you don't mind if I "borrow" the idea.


----------



## Greenland South

Brian Harnett said:


> Installed the railings this weekend still need to do the stairs and sand - stain.



Did you build the home as well?


----------



## Brian Harnett

Greenland South said:


> Did you build the home as well?



No, Just got contracted to do work on it I do custom work for a living.


----------



## kimosawboy

I finished up a Coffee table last week from some slabs of Maple that I got my hands on earlier this month. Usually I try to use only wood that I mill myself but for 8$ I could not resist (my local bandmill guys yearly clean up and sale).
The miter was a challenge but it came out spot on.Some feedback that I have gotten is that it might be a tad dangerous for small children/dogs.... but since I'm not fond of kids and my dogs are at least twice the height it's a moot point(yes that was a pun intended)
Hope you like
G Vavra


----------



## Dave Boyt

The miter effect came out very nicely. Thanks for posting.


----------



## Timberwerks

Here is a Cherry coffee table from a couple years ago I forgot to post.

View attachment 301559


----------



## Timberwerks

Here are a few photos of current build. This table is being built for the Urban Wood Encounter show here in July. This will be an origami inspired coffee table, base will be ebonized Ash. To stabilize the crotch I used a 32" X 3/4" steel rod. The rod passes through the main butterfly. More photos later as I make more progress.

View attachment 301725


View attachment 301726


View attachment 301727


----------



## Pfin

Timberwerks said:


> Here are a few photos of current build. This table is being built for the Urban Wood Encounter show here in July. This will be an origami inspired coffee table, base will be ebonized Ash. To stabilize the crotch I used a 32" X 3/4" steel rod. The rod passes through the main butterfly. More photos later as I make more progress.
> 
> You may be the Chuck Norris of woodworking. How did you drill the hole without breaking through the slab and how are you adhering the rod to the hole you drilled? Great work!


----------



## Timberwerks

Pfin said:


> Timberwerks said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here are a few photos of current build. This table is being built for the Urban Wood Encounter show here in July. This will be an origami inspired coffee table, base will be ebonized Ash. To stabilize the crotch I used a 32" X 3/4" steel rod. The rod passes through the main butterfly. More photos later as I make more progress.
> 
> You may be the Chuck Norris of woodworking. How did you drill the hole without breaking through the slab and how are you adhering the rod to the hole you drilled? Great work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! I started the hole with a standard 6" x 3/4" brad point bit. Then I switched over to the 16" bit. I used the aluminium straight edge as a site line for level and drilling course. Same site line was used when I attached extension. It's actually a fairly easy task. No glue was used to allow for the wood to move. The entry point of the rod will be hidden by a cut off of the slab, it will mimic a fold. The photo will give you an idea of how it will look when done.
> 
> View attachment 301736
Click to expand...


----------



## Dave Boyt

Wow! This thread just keeps getting better! That Chippendale piece is spectacular, and the pipes are amazing. Great wood in the hands of true craftsmen.


----------



## Barneyboy

*My Stuff*

Most of the stuff here is from my Logosol with MS441...

curvedideas.com


----------



## kimosawboy

*Slab Steps*

This is my second set of slab steps to date. This set was for my own house so it took a tad longer to finish.
The wood is Douglas Fir and a it was a two step process to mill it up at the beach. The first step was dragging along my nephew to show him how its done(that lasted till we packed everything down to the site/ trimmed the log and set the mill up…...and then I hit one of my lags within the first six inches of the cut….No spare chain, so home we went). Step two was getting back to the log a few weeks later/ digging it out and cleaning off most of the sand and then some basic milling.
The board ends were sealed and then left for a year or so. I had wanted to route out a grid on each step to prevent slipping when wet but the wife talked me into leaving it roughcut ,(ya she made a good call).
I poured two small concrete curbs for the first tread and imbedded four anchors to secure it. For the ’’stringer’’ i used stacked 4”x4” cut and trimmed to fit then glued and lagged together. After a dry fit or two everything was taken apart and had four coats of sealant applied. Reassembled and all bolt and screw holes plugged and stained.
Rough slab measurement 3” thick, width up to 27” overall tread length 80”
pic1-the victim, pic2setting up mill , pic3trial fit, pic4/5 finished step
Sorry for no actual milling pics.
enjoy
G VavraView attachment 310363
View attachment 310364
View attachment 310366
View attachment 310372
View attachment 310371


----------



## jrhannum

*oak and maple slabs*

cut the slabs with my homemade "alaska", dried then planed using router sled and 1.5" flat-bottom router bit; belt sanded then fixed pores with hot glue and epoxy; used pour-on resin for all but one. Two are memorials to dear friends.View attachment 310454


----------



## Pfin

jrhannum said:


> cut the slabs with my homemade "alaska", dried then planed using router sled and 1.5" flat-bottom router bit; belt sanded then fixed pores with hot glue and epoxy; used pour-on resin for all but one. Two are memorials to dear friends.View attachment 310454



Nice work on the benches! What did you use for bases? Thanks!


----------



## jrhannum

*Bench Ends*

I get them from Polly Products (URL: DIY Bench Making Parts - Bench Ends ), cost with freight around $150; made of recycled plastic, several color options. Tough dudes, too. Bore a hole thru the web at the base for lock-down with a chain.


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Building a rustic playhouse for the kids with some milled sycamore.


----------



## Yellowbeard

Timberwerks said:


> Here are a few photos of current build. This table is being built for the Urban Wood Encounter show here in July. This will be an origami inspired coffee table, base will be ebonized Ash. To stabilize the crotch I used a 32" X 3/4" steel rod. The rod passes through the main butterfly. More photos later as I make more progress.
> 
> View attachment 301725
> 
> 
> View attachment 301726
> 
> 
> View attachment 301727



I really like the butterflies.


----------



## Timberwerks

Yellowbeard said:


> I really like the butterflies.




Thanks! I wanted to try something different.


----------



## ford4500

sewing table me and my son made for the wife this past christmas. 2.5" hemloch, 3 coats of polly and a verry dusty and sticky 5 year old but the old lady loves it.View attachment 312400
View attachment 312402


----------



## Timberwerks

Getting closer to getting this one done, but still lots to do.

View attachment 313355


----------



## Funktionhouse

Timberwerks said:


> Here are a few photos of current build. This table is being built for the Urban Wood Encounter show here in July. This will be an origami inspired coffee table, base will be ebonized Ash. To stabilize the crotch I used a 32" X 3/4" steel rod. The rod passes through the main butterfly. More photos later as I make more progress.
> 
> View attachment 301725
> 
> 
> View attachment 301726
> 
> 
> View attachment 301727




Drilling through that, that far with a hand drill, impressive


----------



## Funktionhouse

Here are a few of our builds, mostly the wife's work. As I tell customers I make it flat and she makes it pretty.


----------



## Timberwerks

Funktionhouse said:


> Drilling through that, that far with a hand drill, impressive



Thanks!


----------



## Timberwerks

Funktionhouse said:


> Here are a few of our builds, mostly the wife's work. As I tell customers I make it flat and she makes it pretty.



Nice work


----------



## Timberwerks

Even though the origami inspired butterflies of this table may attract some interest I think the more interesting detail of the Auragami table will be this folded edge. It's just taped in place for now.

View attachment 313656


View attachment 313657


----------



## Timberwerks

My latest table, origami inspired. Spalted Maple top, ebonized Ash base.




View attachment a1.jpg


View attachment a1.jpg


----------



## BobL

Hey timberwerks,

I'm looking forward to seeing the pics when they come back.

BTW To save on multiple consecutive posts in the same thread, open up another browser tab or window with the same thread in it, hit reply to a thread and copy the quote.
Go back to the original page and hit reply and paste the quote into the reply and write your response to that quote. Then do the same for all the other quoted responses you need to make. This way you have one post and it looks a bit tidier within the thread.

Just a suggestion.

Cheers
BobL


----------



## Brian Harnett

Sweet birch top milled and dried in dehumidifier kiln the legs are Sapele I buy that from a supplier


----------



## devonhubb

Portable shooting bench. The top measures 1 1/2 X 24 X 48. The legs are removable and are splayed out from the center. I milled this slab two years ago.


----------



## 7oaks

I like it!!!


----------



## sachsmo

You guys do nice work!

Never had the patience fer wood working.

My chit is more 'slash and burn'


----------



## sachsmo




----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Built a playhouse for the kids out of sycamore and hemlock. I am building a door and windows out of some beech I milled and kiln dryed last year. Here is a couple pics of a piece I am planning for the door.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


----------



## sachsmo

Sycamore is sure purty wood!
My bud who was wood chuckin' since he was a kid, and swears he will never burn wood again.

He always said "Sycamore ain't good fer nuthin"". 

I find it nice stuff, pretty light too. (when dry)

But as firewood, he is right on!

Keep postin' up them pics, most everything posted before is gone, and according to the guru, "it's gone because of the hack"


----------



## tjbier

Walnut top 1 1/2" and 100+yr old pine from and old barn for the base. 5x5" legs.
It's all clear coated but I am going to sand the top down some and hit it with more clear.


----------



## Fallguy1960

That is a excellent looking table. It well be a fine resting place for your Christmas goose.


----------



## Laird

My first project was this kiln which I finished up in July. I'm currently working on a run-in shed for our horses and will post pics when done. Next project is to plane down the load of Tulip Poplar in the kiln and put up a wood ceiling in the living room, but I won't be starting that till after the 1st of the year.


----------



## tjbier

Looks cool laird.
Keep us informed on how it works.. how long of boards can you fit in there


----------



## huskyhank

I am jealous of that kiln.


----------



## Laird

tjbier said:


> Looks cool laird.
> Keep us informed on how it works.. how long of boards can you fit in there


10' right now, which is the max log length for my LT10. I'll probably build another one to handle 16' boards after I get a bed extension for the mill.


----------



## tjbier

So will you run a dehumidifier in there or whats the plan for it?
How long do you expect a load of wood to dry, 30,60 days ect?


----------



## Laird

tjbier said:


> So will you run a dehumidifier in there or whats the plan for it?
> How long do you expect a load of wood to dry, 30,60 days ect?



No dehumidifier, it's heated and air is circulated by solar power only. I've only done one load so far and it was air dried down to 15%-20% moisture before it went into the kiln. Took another 6 weeks to get it down to 7%, but that's Tulip Poplar. Oak would take significantly longer. It all depends on the time of year, the wood being dried, the thickness, and how long it was air dried before it goes into the kiln.


----------



## Stihl 041S

sachsmo said:


> View attachment 320291
> View attachment 320292





sachsmo said:


> View attachment 320291
> View attachment 320292



Do Lad. This is where you hang out. 

Hello from the fight thread.


----------



## Pfin

Birch (3") and Oak (2.5"). This was a Christmas present I made for my mother and step-father. Inlayed with rocks from various locations around the world that are significant to them. My first tree to finished project on something of this size. I had the wife take a pic of the inlay and photo shop the locations of the rocks onto it which we gave them with the bench.


----------



## Fallguy1960

Very nice, I like the that you left some of the saw marks on the edge of the seat.


----------



## jrhannum

Pfin: side-shot pic, please

We'd like to see how you crafted the bench-ends (didja put in thru-bolts?) -- a bugaboo for we who make benches, so I buy/use Polly Products recycled-plastics


----------



## kimosawboy

I was able to finish this desk for the wife just in time for Xmas. Materials are Fir, Cedar, Maple and unfortunately I had to use some mahogany doorsking ply for the writing surface and the rear of the main carcass.


----------



## sachsmo

Speaking of Sycamore,

think this old dead standing one is what gave me the milling bug.

That and the fact an old boy in flat ash Indiana really doesn't need a (or 10) 100 cc saws!

Hear tell some folks call it "snakewood" I can sure see why.





After seeing what is inside a 'trash' tree, I have forever looked at trees differently.


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Sycamore has beautiful grain if quarter sawed

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


----------



## Pfin

jrhannum said:


> Pfin: side-shot pic, please
> 
> We'd like to see how you crafted the bench-ends (didja put in thru-bolts?) -- a bugaboo for we who make benches, so I buy/use Polly Products recycled-plastics



I will likely not be able to get a side shot of the bench in the near future. I'm a newbie bench builder with plans for several more (different designs) so if you have pointers feel free to let me know. I used 4" coated lag screws to hold the oak trim pieces to the birch, every 5-6 inches. The oak is rounded over and sanded flush with the birch on the ends. The only crack mitigation I used was a butterfly spline... more decoration than anything. No thru-bolts or Flitchsavers. I air dried both the birch and oak for about a year, followed by kiln drying (self-made kiln), then another month of sitting out of the kiln before any shaping took place. We'll see how it ages. Thanks!


----------



## jrhannum

Bench-end crafting

I like a simple bench-end which won't break and doesn't compete with the beauty of the seat and back pieces (and doesn't eat too many hours of my time), thus the Polly Plastics. I have considered crafting a pair from a large (30 x 50) piece which has a few year's of drying yet to go. See the pic.


----------



## Pfin

jrhannum said:


> Bench-end crafting
> 
> I like a simple bench-end which won't break and doesn't compete with the beauty of the seat and back pieces (and doesn't eat too many hours of my time), thus the Polly Plastics. I have considered crafting a pair from a large (30 x 50) piece which has a few year's of drying yet to go. See the pic.



The bench-ends are made out of the same 2.5" oak with a mortice and tenon for the lower brace brace. I used lag screws for the back, going through the bench end upright and into the back piece from the back. I also used some 90 degree bronze finished shelf braces for the back and seat to make sure they're going to stay in place. All the hardware is either completely hidden or only seen if someone actually went looking for it. I thought about going the polly route to save time, but this was a learning experience as well, so I wanted to figure out how to make a base. Thanks for posting that pic, the measurements are definitely helpful!


----------



## woods works

My first project after putting this mill together from scrap metal collected over the years. Aspen trees that needed to come down for more sun to the garden.


----------



## lps8

Here are some pics of the interior of our house that I worked on for over 3 years. The kitchen table was finished today. The cabinets and built-ins are cedar milled from trees given to me, one a farmer friend that was stockpiling down trees on his farm and he got more than he needed so he gave me a couple of loads to clean them up. A few came from someones yard that they could not get anyone to cut and the rest from a cemetery when ever a storm comes thru.


----------



## gr8scott72

Two cedar benches I recently finished:


----------



## gr8scott72

Oak headboard:


----------



## BobL

rogue60 said:


> Not realy worthy of posting in here as I think you guys are true craftsman with timber!...Im only a hack when it come to making things out of the timber we cut but here is my new chook pen am just about done....I have to (try) and keep out Dog's/foxes/snakes/hawks/eagles/brushtail possums,crows/currawongs/wild cats/quoll . . .


Just translating for the 'merican members

chook = chicken
quoll = carnivorous marsupial native to Australia and New Guinea.


----------



## Jim Timber

rogue60 said:


> Not realy worthy of posting in here



That's a fine coop you built Rogue. Nothing to be ashamed of at all!


----------



## abbott295

I agree with Jim Timber, it's a fine coop. I hope it does the job for you. Thanks to BobL for the help. One more question: What is that animal in the last picture? If it isn't a pet of some sort, which of the critters on the list is it? And you only had the camera to shoot it with? Hmmm, I see traps hanging on the wall too.


----------



## MarcusB

Its a Quoll. Hes in Queensland so a tiger quoll


----------



## jonsered raket

here's our never ending project.

Sent from my N9100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## MarcusB

^^^You mill the lumber. That house is awesome.


----------



## jonsered raket

We helped with the final mill, they were rough cut about 2 hours away and then put in the kiln, After that we brought them to the house site and milled them down to final size. Were actually a lot farther than these pictures but haven't taken any recently.

Sent from my N9100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Jim Timber

What species is that?


----------



## Daninvan

Here are a few things I have built with wood I have milled myself.

A bookcase for my wife with elm, the panels are 5/8" thick. The sapele for the frames I bought. From a design I saw on the cover of FWW several years ago. This took me over a year to build. The shelves are veneered and each shelf has 25 pieces of wood in it. 





A simple shelf for holding some of my Hammond Glider tablesaw accessories in the shop. Cherry with catalpa, the catalpa back is a single piece, I had to go over to the shop of a friend who has a large bandsaw to resaw it. 





A small shelf from oak, red cedar, and Port Orford cedar. I made this for a friend who helped me set the logs up that I mill.





This is a cabinet of maple with locust panels on the front. Inside is a shelf made of spalted cherry. I keep this one in my office.





This is a cabinet I made for my sister. It is one of my favourites. The figured maple door I did not mill myself. The rest of the cabinet is all wood that I milled, and which have some significance for my sister and I. For example cherry that our dad salvaged from a tree near where we grew up, crabapple from the tree in our backyard, arbutus from the property of a family friend, cypress from our aunt and uncle, etc. 





This cabinet is pear with a spalted maple door.





Japanese style toolbox with a sliding lid. Catalpa.





This was a fun little frame and panel I did several years ago as a gift. I shows 15 different woods that I have milled at the beach log dump, with an alder frame. This is the only picture I have of it, I completed it but do not have a finished photo. Don't know if I can remember all the woods in it: catalpa, red cedar, yellow cedar, Port Orford cedar, Monterey Cypress, London Plane, Manitoba Maple, locust, maple, oak, cherry, ?


----------



## Grey

These bookmatched pieces of walnut will be for my brother to build guitars and dobros.


----------



## Grey

But mostly, I keep building stacks of lumber.
QS White Oak





Black Walnut


----------



## GrantD

Ha! I'm with you Grey, it seems I keep "building" drying stacks.

What I have built, has gone to other folks...

Cake platter for my brother-in-law's wedding:









Mug hanger for the same above:





Cutting board for a buddy:













Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## psgflier

I really enjoy seeing you guys art work. Don't have much talent for the fine stuff, but I'll post some pics of my latest project to keep the thread fresh and chum some of the real talented guys to post.
The steps I salvaged from an old cannery cookhouse tear down for my cabin finally gave out so I put this little porch together. Alaska yellow cedar.


----------



## psgflier

This was one of my last years projects. I re-decked the trailer solid. I have to turn the plane sideways to get it up my driveway, and straight on to launch and retrieve.Full dimension yellow cedar 2x12. Some of the extra wood milled here is what was used for the porch in the previous post.


----------



## 1947wdx

Back in '09, I started a thread about milling some maple from a tree that had fallen up in the woods along the property line. (http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/playing-with-maple.114588/) Unfortunately the images have all gone away. Here is what things looked like back then.







It's been air drying for a few years now, and I've finally gotten around to doing something with the wood. Here is a table I recently finished. The two boards along the middle, the breadboard ends, and the walnut bow-ties are "store bought" wood, but the rest is stuff off the woodlot. The legs where hewn old school with an ax and slightly cleaned up with a draw knife The "feet" are downed branches from an old maple we used to tap as kids, so a bit of history there...


----------



## stonykill

wow, that is really fantastic!


----------



## Pfin

Awesome table. Seriously.


----------



## Fallguy1960

Hope your wife likes the rug. Excellent job on the table


----------



## 1947wdx

Thanks for the compliments on the table. And yes my wife picked out the rug... She's also put in an order for benches or some other type of seating that goes with the table better. That will have to wait for other projects in the queue, but I have some other wood I milled that will work for that. (If I don't use it for something else first... )


----------



## psgflier

Excellent table, you've got a great back story to go with it. Should be something the grand-kids talk about for generations.

Here is another project I did. Yellow cedar construction with red cedar shingles cut on the band mill.


----------



## psgflier

Beautiful.
I envy you guys that have a variety of woods to cut up and use. I almost cry with some of the wood I see going for firewood or chips when I travel. All I have available here is Sitka spruce, hemlock, yellow cedar, a smattering of western red cedar, and red alder.
I did about choke yesterday when I saw an add on Craig's List for 3 yellow cedar boards for $300 though.


----------



## FISH BAIT

This is my first project this large. Its a bar top for a friend of mine made out of cedar I milled a few years back. The final dimensions were 12'x30"x2.5". I learned a few things that I'll do diferent next time but it was alot of fun.


----------



## chads

I have been working on a coffee table.
Second coat of wet polyurethane.





Hard to get a decent photo in the shop but here is a close up.




I have enough satin finish for one more coat before I open another can, I may consider something more glossy, any recommendations.
I want to add depth and build it up some.
Chad


----------



## FISH BAIT

There are some realy nice projects on here! How are Ya'll cutting in your butterflys? Are they shalloy inlays or full depth. The ones I used down the middel of my bar top are full depth for structural suport. They were a pain in the butt, it took close to an hour per joint using a pilot hole, then jig saw, and then a chisel for the final fit. Any sugestions for an easier way?

Thanks
Chad "FB"


----------



## Grey

Waterlox is great for popping the figure and giving great protection. I highly recommend it for figured wood!


----------



## chads

I ran a board thru the planer so I would have uniform size.
Then I cut them out on the band saw, cleaned them up with the sander, traced around them in position.
I set the router about 1/32 shallower than the thickness of the butterfly.
Hogg out near the line with the router and clean up with a chisel.
Fit and trim them, glue up and clamp in place.
I went a little over 1/2 thickness and they seem to hold fine.
If you want more strength I would put some on the back side too if you think You need it.
This is my first attempt and I would say it took me about 30 min or so each all things included.
I did two or three at a time the smaller ones were faster.
Chad


----------



## axe2fall




----------



## rarefish383

That's the garage I want. Nice work, Joe.


----------



## kimosawboy

Chad "FB"
You might consider an inlay bushing set (http://www.rockler.com/inlay-bushing-and-bit-with-removable-collar), with this set up most any shape is possible to inlay perfectly.
For' butterflies' , since they are usually structural a rule of thumb I use is a minimum 1/3 board thickness with the grain running from 'head to tail' on the butterfly. With the 1/8" bit in the router for the template jig I take many passes to achieve my depth, usually I use a larger bit to hog out the centers. You will need to clean up any corners by hand but a sharp chisel takes care of that.
If I have to do just one 'butterfly', I might whack it out by hand, two or more and out comes the router.
G Vavra


----------



## axe2fall

rarefish383 said:


> That's the garage I want. Nice work, Joe.


The story with captions . . .
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/gallery/albums/old-barn-new-barn.1342/


----------



## FISH BAIT

kimosawboy said:


> Chad "FB"
> You might consider an inlay bushing set (http://www.rockler.com/inlay-bushing-and-bit-with-removable-collar), with this set up most any shape is possible to inlay perfectly.
> For' butterflies' , since they are usually structural a rule of thumb I use is a minimum 1/3 board thickness with the grain running from 'head to tail' on the butterfly. With the 1/8" bit in the router for the template jig I take many passes to achieve my depth, usually I use a larger bit to hog out the centers. You will need to clean up any corners by hand but a sharp chisel takes care of that.
> If I have to do just one 'butterfly', I might whack it out by hand, two or more and out comes the router.
> G Vavra


I have an inlay jig and bushing kit but I didn't think a .5" inlay would be thick enough so I cut them full thickness. I need to build a jig that will accommodate larger bits and deeper cuts.


----------



## chads

I did not start on the jig because mine are all different sizes.
I would have to make a jig for each one. not sure if I would save much time that way.
Nice table legs I had an idea to daisy chain a set of legs with branch connecting each leg for a brace.
I cut some pine the other day and near the top I cut some at about 24" and left a 1.5" or so branch sticking out about 4" from the end.
If it works out I will be able to drill a hole in the next leg and thread the branch into the hole and fasten with a wedge.
Not so sure how it will work out but going to give it a try.
Chad


----------



## rarefish383

axe2fall said:


> The story with captions . . .
> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/gallery/albums/old-barn-new-barn.1342/


Wow, sad story with good ending. Great to have family and friends that help. What part of Virginia are you in? Could I come by some time and see your new building, Joe?


----------



## axe2fall

Absolutely! . . . The nearest town is Tappahannock. 45 miles east of Richmond and 45 miles south of Fredericksburg. Where are you in MD ?
Call me if you are coming by.
Oh and . . . 
Bring a hammer !  
Andy
804-76one-057four


----------



## rarefish383

axe2fall said:


> Absolutely! . . . The nearest town is Tappahannock. 45 miles east of Richmond and 45 miles south of Fredericksburg. Where are you in MD ?
> Call me if you are coming by.
> Oh and . . .
> Bring a hammer !
> Andy
> 804-76one-057four



Thanks Andy. That's down the road a bit. I'm in Frederick, MD. If I could find a model 99 Savage for sale down that way it would make the trip a bonus. I put your number in my cell, if I get a chance I'll call ahead to set something up. Thanks again, Joe.


----------



## axe2fall

I spent some time around Baltimore and have been to Frederick a few times. I know Frederick Rd somewhat . . .144 ? . . Hung around a little dive called Taylor's Step In (stumble out) in my youth.
Is that a lever action in .308 ?
Text me for my email address


----------



## hamish

My aunt was looking for a ipad-thingy holder, wasn't too keen on the blue stain but works for her. Always nice pulling a piece out of the to be kindling pile.


----------



## rarefish383

axe2fall said:


> I spent some time around Baltimore and have been to Frederick a few times. I know Frederick Rd somewhat . . .144 ? . . Hung around a little dive called Taylor's Step In (stumble out) in my youth.
> Is that a lever action in .308 ?
> Text me for my email address


Could be, I have one in 308, 303, 300, and 250. At the rate I'm going I'll have more Savages than Homelites, but it will take a while. I'm about a mile off 144 in Mt Airy. I'll send you a text in the morning, Joe.


----------



## steve easy




----------



## axe2fall

steve easy said:


> View attachment 355348


That's awesome!
What kind of wood is that ?


----------



## steve easy

axe2fall said:


> That's awesome!
> What kind of wood is that ?


 Thanks, its macrocarpa


----------



## bigjohn1895

heres a bar I did last week the top is 3 foot wide 10.5 foot long


----------



## rarefish383

Bigjohn, that's a nice bar, I may steal your idea. Thanks for sharing, Joe.


----------



## Brendon Phillips

One of the things that came from this log.


----------



## pete_86

axe2fall said:


> View attachment 348852
> View attachment 348853



Very nice building! I was curious, did you guys pour any gravel before doing the slab? I wasn't sure if it was necessary on a slab that's under a roof or protection from rain getting under it and causing issues.


----------



## axe2fall

I put a load of gravel under it but I don't think it was necessary for drainage in this location. I used it to level the site.


----------



## pete_86

Here is a shelf unit I made for canned goods, I plan on making doors and using some glass from some old sliding glass doors I pulled from a house I worked on. Once the doors are on it'll be a cabinet. 

It's made from pine, finished in minwax honey maple and poly. Close to 7' tall and 4' wide, it'll hold plenty of canned goods, 192 jars and close to 600lbs. I made sure to anchor it to the wall with a hidden 4" screw up at the very top and set it to be across the floor joists should it be too heavy! LOL It seemed stable but we have some large dogs that like to rough house.

I joke with my gf that she's going to have a hard time filling it up and she says it'll be easy. We pulled what jars we have leftover in our cupboards and started filling it up. Now our cupboards are free from canning jars.


----------



## pete_86

here is a lamp hangar for a venus fly trap made of pine,


----------



## Mattyo

How about a 16x16 shed? ridge beam is 18' long ...13.25" high  95% milled lumber, and 90% is seasoned. 


We are a little further along now....more pics to follow eventually. 

-Matt


----------



## steve easy

A 2mx2m douglas fir hut, started cutting macrocarpa posts for the next project a 4mx4m cabin.


----------



## steve easy

This framing game is addictive. Learnt heaps, made a truck load of mistakes. Looking forward to milling the stock for the next one, not looking forward to the falling i will have to do to get logs on the ground.


----------



## Mattyo

Where I am at....roof sheathing


----------



## Jim Timber

Damn, Steve... That's awesome! I love the details in the joints.


----------



## steve easy

Jim Timber said:


> Damn, Steve... That's awesome! I love the details in the joints.


 Thanks ,i do believe its a sickness. Last time i got into something that made me sick like this i ended up with shed full of chainsaws ,couple of alaskan mills, a couple of circular mills, various attachments for the chainsaws and i have been thinking lately i could do with a small BSM aswell.


----------



## betterbuilt

Awesome shed Steve. I love the floor details.


----------



## rarefish383

I posted a thread with these pics, but I thought I'd add them here too. My wife asked me to build her a shelf in her potting shed. Six months later I hadn't gotten it done. Then she went away for the weekend. When she got back she asked what I did while she was gone? I said I framed in your bench. A couple weeks later she asked if I planned on putting a sheet of plywood on her bench so she could store stuff on it over the winter? Well, I was getting in my truck to go get a sheet of plywood, and I looked in my trailer, and there sat 2 fir logs. I thought I've got a mill and a log, who needs plywood. So, a week or so later this is what she got, Joe.


----------



## 7oaks

Nice!


----------



## MarcusB

Meant to post this up 6 months ago. Cedar top and sides, shelves are american cherry


----------



## 7oaks

Beautiful!


----------



## TPA

Compliments the wall art beautifully. Looks like you are building a mini Louvre.


----------



## jagchaser

Its not much, but my wife likes it and that's really all that matters! and yes I know I need to get rid of the wood paneling and the baseboard now!


----------



## betterbuilt

Looks great!


----------



## MarcusB

Thats good stuff


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Finally got my lumber organized at my new house


----------



## pete_86

2treeornot2tree said:


> Finally got my lumber organized at my new house




Nice work and nice collection of lumber, bet that took you some time. Looks like you can easily access what you need, that's one problem I have not being able to get to a stack I'd like to use without moving stuff.


----------



## Ayatollah

psgflier said:


> Excellent table, you've got a great back story to go with it. Should be something the grand-kids talk about for generations.
> 
> Here is another project I did. Yellow cedar construction with red cedar shingles cut on the band mill.
> 
> View attachment 345152
> View attachment 345153
> View attachment 345154
> View attachment 345155



I swore I saw a guillotine there at first


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

pete_86 said:


> Nice work and nice collection of lumber, bet that took you some time. Looks like you can easily access what you need, that's one problem I have not being able to get to a stack I'd like to use without moving stuff.


Took me and another guy all day to move it and stack it


----------



## betterbuilt

2treeornot2tree said:


> Took me and another guy all day to move it and stack it


The question is, what what are you building with it? I'm very jealous of all that space. I need to build a lumber storage rack of some sort. I have piles in front of piles.


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

I got a dresser for my boy part time. Been making some shelves for our new house and I just made a cutting board because we don't have one.


----------



## betterbuilt

Nice. Looks like maybe maple and oak or hickory? 

Here's a Ash desk I made in the spring.


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

It is red oak and American beech. Nice table. I bought a inlay kit, so I am excited to give that a whirl


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Gotta seal it yet


----------



## pete_86

Cutting boards are always great to make and get plenty of use. A few yrs back I got large one for Christmas and I had to take my router to it in order to cut a channel for drippings. LOL.

Anyone interested in sharing shop pics? I work out of a spare bedroom with benchtop tools, it works for me for now. Congrats on new house


----------



## mdavlee

This is going to be a small shelf. Not sure which room to put it in yet.


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Got my last batch of wood back from my buddy yesterday. 1336 bd ft of chestnut oak and 704 bd ft of walnut. Cost me $480 to have it all milled so that's right around 23.5 cents a bd ft.


----------



## Greenland South

pete_86 said:


> Cutting boards are always great to make and get plenty of use. A few yrs back I got large one for Christmas and I had to take my router to it in order to cut a channel for drippings. LOL.
> 
> Anyone interested in sharing shop pics? I work out of a spare bedroom with benchtop tools, it works for me for now. Congrats on new house





pete_86 said:


> Cutting boards are always great to make and get plenty of use. A few yrs back I got large one for Christmas and I had to take my router to it in order to cut a channel for drippings. LOL.
> 
> Anyone interested in sharing shop pics? I work out of a spare bedroom with benchtop tools, it works for me for now. Congrats on new house



This is where I hang out through the long winters.


----------



## jagchaser

I see a lot of furniture makers right now using metal legs instead of wood. I never really liked the look of it, but I don't have a lathe yet. Im tempted to try a coffee table with metal legs or something. Have any of you tried that and where did you find your hardware?


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Greenland South said:


> This is where I hang out through the long winters.
> View attachment 384471
> View attachment 384472


What for dust collector setup you got?


----------



## TPA

jagchaser said:


> I see a lot of furniture makers right now using metal legs instead of wood. I never really liked the look of it, but I don't have a lathe yet. Im tempted to try a coffee table with metal legs or something. Have any of you tried that and where did you find your hardware?


To start out, you could try to adapt a used outdoor table base. Some of the older ones are pretty nice heavy solid stuff.


----------



## Greenland South

2treeornot2tree said:


> What for dust collector setup you got?


It is home made cyclone with a 1 1/2 HP blower that I scavenged off a surplus negative air unit. I also have an ambient air filter that was also a surplus negative air unit. The ambient air filter works really well, the cyclone not so much. Barely adequate would be my description. My plan is to rip it all out and get myself a commercialy built system and run my ducting under the floor(someday).


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Do you buy the metal duct work from a hvac distributor?


----------



## Greenland South

2treeornot2tree said:


> Do you buy the metal duct work from a hvac distributor?


When I first put it all together I used regular HVAC 4 & 6" smooth wall pipe. I was having a terrible time with sawdust settling out in the duct run and eventually clogging off. A friend of mine who has a HVAC and commercial insulating buisness was over one day and he looked at my system and shook his head. He offered to sell me a bunch of 4 & 6" spiral ducting for a pretty nice deal. It works much better. So I guess the answer to your question is yes. 
As I mentioned in the last post, I plan on upgrading. When I do I'll have a company like Oneida design a proper collection system.


----------



## pete_86

Can a mod sticky this thread please? Maybe I overlooked it, but I had to do some searching to find this thread and the reason I mill is because I like building. Thanks!  Also, it's been mentioned by others and I too would find a woodworking section added to our site a plus. I know they have those forums, similar to the gun section here. Some guys would just like staying on here and having a casual forum, not so dedicated as a specific gun formum or etc. 

I posted this in the main milling also. I have a tip I'd like to share and that'd also be cool to have in a woodworking section. A spot for tips, ex how to clean glue, any struggles with, clamping, tricks to joint without a jointer. Also, maybe a tool section for areas where guys want to ask tool questions/show off new tools.


----------



## pete_86

So, I've been busy off an on inside my small make shift bedroom shop. I have a super cool gf that puts up with the occasional planer chips that track off into the living room now and than from foot traffic! My dust collection system is a shop vac, a dust pan, and garbage bags! LOL, so not a fancy shop here. She also puts up with the noise while watching her netflix shows on computer, says noise doesn't bother her or it's not that bad along with ear buds when it does get noisy. 

So my previous projects were a canning jar bookcase for a large project and other small ones I tried to post here. I did build a book case for her sister and never got pics. I just finished one for my gf out of pine and cherry. Not a combination found much, I don't have any large clamps for glue ups nor did I want to use a lot of cherry for this project, I also liked that accent look of the dark and light mix normally found with walnut and maple, but in my stock pile I have 2/3 pine and 1/3 cherry and poplar that has too much character for this project. 

So I used some nice pine, shelves aren't perfect with some streaking on one or two but books will cover this. I used a router and straight edge to joint and did best I could with my planer taking light cuts to get out any cupping. It's amazing how close I can get a board flat. It's not the cupping, but any twists along length that is reluctant to come out and that was present in the uprights. So not perfect, but I'm still learning and have a limited shop. 

I dadoed with my chop saw, cleaned up with router. This time used ratchet straps to glue and hold the basic assembly straight. I had brad nailed previous bookcases to hold while glue dries. I dressed shelves with cherry on front to beef up shelves and dress up along with cherry on sides. Simple and easy, looks ok and functional so she's happy! I wanted to make some crown molding on table saw for this, but she seamed not to like the look. Was going with a flat piece with two 45s ripped on edge as I have no shaper to profile anything. 

I sealed it with 3 coats of a linseed/varnish/mineral spirits thinned wipe on finish I made instead of buying a danish or teak oil. Very nice mix, finished with some furniture wax. I can't wait to see cherry darken, although I also like it the way it was and wasn't afraid to show a bit of sap wood. Kinda rustic cherry to go with knotty eastern pine. 

My only fear is my shelves will one day fall out of one of these book cases I build. I'm not sure of how to do a floating design other than shelf pins or nailing only front of a shelf while keeping whole base together. Time will tell, I sealed it up nicely and keep board lengths on shorter/narrower side. People talk of nice furniture self destructing. 

Also I made a bandsaw box, these I'm going to make and sell in order to fund more tools and unfortunatly bills. The economy has been rough around here. 

Bandsaw boxes are my new thing, I'm getting tired of bookcases,  The bandsaw box stressed my lil 9" Delta even with the 1/8" blade but not bad. Main issue is I can't get the depth of box to a good size as I run out of height on the saw. So now, I had thought a jointer was my next tool but maybe a 14" band saw! I am probably going to try cutting the back seperatly so I can saw a deep drawer. Not sure, can only do so much before it's not an actual bandsaw box. I cut it on table saw which was bit scary but not bad using push sticks and keep blade about half deep through box. No OSS in my shop so hand sanding! Lot of work for something so simple, best part I only used about a 3' board and these things are plenty of fun.


----------



## pete_86

My next project is a BS box for my mom and sisters, I'm thinking a handy size to put recipe cards in and have by kitchen stove where it's handy! My shop experience consists of four yrs of high school class. I've done clocks, shelves, corbels, cutting boards, stools, aderondeck chairs, and small half circle side tables. As my shop and tools grow I plan on taking on more projects. Would like to do some cutting boards with inlays. My next big project is a blanket chest of cherry. Like most, the woodworking gives me something to do. Anyone looking to get into it should do so, lots of benchtop tools these days. My planer is a lunch box planer and lots of techniques to learn to get around not having a tool. I use my carpentry elec hand planer to get most of the excessive cup out of ends of a board and than plane down. Works nicely, I made a jig for my table saw to get easy straight edges. Even so I'm looking forward to a jointer but for any lurkers wanting to jump into it, take the plunge. What's killing me is price of clamps. Even pipe clamps are expensive, gotta buy the pipe!


----------



## Fundyheather

Log Steambath/compost toilet using an eastern European corner joint with spikes and foam sill gasket chinking


----------



## BobL

Greenland South said:


> When I first put it all together I used regular HVAC 4 & 6" smooth wall pipe. I was having a terrible time with sawdust settling out in the duct run and eventually clogging off. A friend of mine who has a HVAC and commercial insulating buisness was over one day and he looked at my system and shook his head. He offered to sell me a bunch of 4 & 6" spiral ducting for a pretty nice deal. It works much better. So I guess the answer to your question is yes.
> As I mentioned in the last post, I plan on upgrading. When I do I'll have a company like Oneida design a proper collection system.



FWIW one of the things I did in my day job before I retired was design and build ultra clean dust free laboratories. oOver 35 years I learned much more about dust and moving and filtering air than is ever going to be needed in a woodshop but the principles and ideas can be applied to all manner of wood and metal working dust collection. Since I retired I have studied the movement of dust in home shops in detail using air flow meters, pressure monitors, and dust particle counters, and have posted most of this on the Aussie woodworkers dust forum (http://www.woodworkforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=200 - I post there under the same user name) and have given presentations to wood working clubs, provided free advice to dozens of woodies setting up dust extraction systems etc. If anyone on this forum needs advice about managing wood dust then I am happy to help out

In my 480 sq ft home shop I use a 3HP twin bag dust extractor located outside in a sound proof enclosure. My dust testing of some 20 home shops has shown that all dust extractors and vacuum cleaners leak so the only way to ensure that fine dust doesn't hang around in a shop is to put them outside. I realise this does not help folks in cold climates who want to retain their heated air. Where I live the opposite applies in summer but I get around this in another way. I use under floor ducting to my table saw which is in the middle of the shop and the rest os overhead - ducting that lays on the floor is not only a nuisance but dangerous.

My ducting system uses 6" diameter mainly PVC storm water piping and some 6" galv pipe. The notion that pvc can cause fires is complete bunkum as the physics of the situation is such that electrical sparks cannot happen inside plastic pipes. THE ONLY WAY that anywhere near the claimed flow rates given by dust collector manufacturers can be obtained is to use 6" ducting. 4" ducting can never move more than around 400 CFM using conventional dust extractors whereas 6: can move about 1250 CFM. I have tested a number of shop dust extractors and they can only typically move about half the air that they claim.

Even after all this, the "elephants in the corners" are the machines themselves as attaching a 6" duct to a 4" duct port on a machine is a complete waste of time. Only some very high end machines come with the 6" duct posts that support the high flows needed. If a machine has only 4" dust ports then 3 (yes THREE) of these are needed to make use of a 6" duct. Most machines are seriously choked and do not allow sufficient air into them to remove the fine dust from the air around a machine.

I also have an 800 CFM 99.997% efficient at 0.3 micron clean air lab grade scrubber but my regular DC system works well enough that I hardly ever use it.

For metal working I use small all metal fume hood that has an unrestricted squirrel cage fan that can draw up to 2600 CFM (yes I measured this myself), plus an additional 1300 CFM extractor in the ceiling for when I use my gas powered forge.

For those that are interested in all this I recommend reading Bill Pentz website on dust extraction (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm). Bill is a bit of a zealot but I have found little on his website that I disagree with


----------



## Todd Peterson

Used the aspen that I milled early last summer for the tops on these.


----------



## steve easy

A lucky one year old is the new owner of my little shed. Was a little nervous of how it would shift, digger driver did a great job of walking it up drive in background, made it up there without any movement in the joints at all.


----------



## betterbuilt

BobL said:


> FWIW one of the things I did in my day job before I retired was design and build ultra clean dust free laboratories. oOver 35 years I learned much more about dust and moving and filtering air than is ever going to be needed in a woodshop but the principles and ideas can be applied to all manner of wood and metal working dust collection. Since I retired I have studied the movement of dust in home shops in detail using air flow meters, pressure monitors, and dust particle counters, and have posted most of this on the Aussie woodworkers dust forum (http://www.woodworkforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=200 - I post there under the same user name) and have given presentations to wood working clubs, provided free advice to dozens of woodies setting up dust extraction systems etc. If anyone on this forum needs advice about managing wood dust then I am happy to help out



Nice read over at WWF. Lots of good info. Do you have any pictures of your outside DC shed? I eventually want to move mine outside. Cheers.


----------



## BobL

betterbuilt said:


> Nice read over at WWF. Lots of good info. Do you have any pictures of your outside DC shed? I eventually want to move mine outside. Cheers.



The DC enclosure is in the 4ft wide gap between the back of my shop and the back fence.
Because there is not a lot of room there it's hard to take goo photos so this is the best I have got.
The enclosure is 8ft high 2 ft deep and 6ft wide and is based on 3x2" pine stud frame.
The cladding of the walls and roof are a sandwich of (starting from the outside) external Colorbond metal sheeting (matches the rest of my shop exterior) then 1.25" thick melamine sheeting, 2" of rock wool insulation and then 5/8" MDF cladding. The doors used 3" of foam rubber instead of rock wool and don't have the inner layer of 5/8" MDF

Here the outside view 



Here the door foam





The air has to be able to escape without letting out a lot of noise so I built in a M shaped baffle made out of 1" thick chipboard lined with 1.5" foam
Here's the cross section with the front panel removed 



The net effect is that the sound pressure level at the neighbours fence is reduced to about the same as that from his pool pump (62 dB) and his pump runs day and night so I am happy to use it at night if I feel like it.
The neighbour's pool is just over the back fence so he has to look at the back of my shop which is why I went to such an effort to make it look good.

The noise level inside my shop from the air rushing around is around 70dB.

Here's s shot of one of the arms of my ducting system
The "Enc" label is the DC enclosure just outside the back door - door always kept shut when running the DC.
Everything is ducted using 6" diameter PVC pipe except for the the bandsaw which uses 3 x 4" flexies.



My lathe uses a bell mouth hood dust extraction which is much more efficient than any other sort of hood



I also have a time delay off switch on the DC system, When I switch off the DC I can I can flip it to delay (as determined by the rotary switch in the upper RH corner of the box)
The DC will run for that time and switch off automatically. This further vents any fine dust from the shed.
Standar delayed off time is 2 minute but if I have been making dust for a while I might up it to 10 minutes.



Here's my welding bay fume hood.
As you can see I also used it as a small spray booth.


----------



## Nato

jagchaser, here are some examples of some types of steel legs that I can make for tables. Thanks n8


----------



## Daninvan

Made this lamp out of some yellow cedar I milled a few years ago. It's about 29" tall and 10" square. No glue other than to hold in some wedges at the bottom. Surprisingly heavy. Took me two years of part-time effort. 

It was quite a stretch for my woodworking skills!


----------



## rarefish383

I've got a little farm in West Virginia we use for hunting and a get a way from the real world, hide out. It has an old house trailer that works for the guys to hang out in. Last year we built a little 8x12' addition to get some elbow room. I got the idea to build a fold down table in the addition, it folds up out of the way, and folds down to seat 5. The boards were milled from a big White Pine that blew down in a storm. i think those were the first pics I posted here. A friend is a custom cabinet maker and he cut straight edges on my boards, then I glued two together to make a 34 inch wide table. Inlaid hinges in the topto fold up. put two hinges on a slab leg that swings down when the table is in use. heres a couple pics. Think I'll dig up the ole pic of milling the Pine too, Joe.


----------



## Nato

Daninvan said:


> Made this lamp out of some yellow cedar I milled a few years ago. It's about 29" tall and 10" square. No glue other than to hold in some wedges at the bottom. Surprisingly heavy. Took me two years of part-time effort.
> 
> It was quite a stretch for my woodworking skills!
> 
> View attachment 414832


Hey daninvan what material did you use for your shade? That's a big lamp!, I like it. Thanks n8


----------



## Daninvan

Nato said:


> Hey daninvan what material did you use for your shade? That's a big lamp!, I like it. Thanks n8



Nato, I used a handmade Japanese paper called ginwashi. It has little flecks about a half inch long in it. It's quite white, hopefully it will not fade over time. I bought it at a local store called Paper-ya that sells arty Japanese stuff including paper. (Website paper-ya.com) It was about $5 a sheet, pretty reasonable I thought. The lamp took two sheets.

There are also US companies on line that sell Japanese paper, eshoji.com is one I have heard of, but have never used.


----------



## Nato

Daninvan said:


> Nato, I used a handmade Japanese paper called ginwashi. It has little flecks about a half inch long in it. It's quite white, hopefully it will not fade over time. I bought it at a local store called Paper-ya that sells arty Japanese stuff including paper. (Website paper-ya.com) It was about $5 a sheet, pretty reasonable I thought. The lamp took two sheets.
> 
> There are also US companies on line that sell Japanese paper, eshoji.com is one I have heard of, but have never used.


Thanks daninvan. I'll check it out.


----------



## Daninvan

Nato said:


> Thanks daninvan. I'll check it out.



Sorry Nato, I have to correct my previous post. 

I bought two papers, Ginwashi Tissue ($5/sheet), and Iwami White ($7/sheet). 

I only used one type but now I am not sure which is which!


----------



## Nato

Daninvan said:


> Sorry Nato, I have to correct my previous post.
> 
> I bought two papers, Ginwashi Tissue ($5/sheet), and Iwami White ($7/sheet).
> 
> I only used one type but now I am not sure which is which!


Lol! Yes I suffer from that too. I thought your shade looked like paper, but wasn't certain. If you have time, and if you still have the lamp, I would love to see a photo of the inside. I have wanted to make some lighting fixtures for sometime now. Thanks again, n8


----------



## Daninvan

Here are a few more shots, hopefully something like what you were looking for. I have to give credit to Chris over at The Carpentry Way for the design of this lamp.


----------



## Homelite410

I whipped up a raw walnut headboard. Looks primitive to what you guys make but I'm happy with it!


----------



## steve easy




----------



## KiwiBro

rarefish383 said:


>



Thanks for posting. This Winter here I've got to build a fold-down cabin I can take to tree jobs on remote farms that have no good accommodation for me. May use this table idea, often.


----------



## KiwiBro

steve easy said:


> View attachment 419679
> View attachment 419680
> View attachment 419681


O for awesome Steve. I doubt they sell such Steve Originals at Ikea!


----------



## KiwiBro

Not exactly built nor milled but from tree to finished item anyway.

Can't find the pic of the tree felled. Did post it on AS but that got lost in one of the great AS purges of the past.
Here's the block though (wood is Totara - a NZ native):




Here's a rough green turning:




And here it is, after finally being able to finish off after a few years of drying:




A friend turned it. One day, I'll have the time and money, and hopefully find some helpful turners, to learn how. Pictures don't really show how big this bowl is. 

This is a full sized pizza box (looks small next to it) for reference:


----------



## macstrange

Table out of eucalyptus


And headboard


----------



## macstrange

Eucalyptus slab


----------



## KiwiBro

Is it just me or does that euc have some incredible interlocked wave/figure action happening? Was this tree leaning pretty hard? It looks like it had far more volume one side of the pith than the other.


----------



## macstrange

Definitely has some crossfire grain going on.


----------



## macstrange

This log was down a long time before I got to it, so I don't know about any lean. Eucalyptus tend to grow pretty plumb out here though.


----------



## KiwiBro

macstrange said:


> This log was down a long time before I got to it, so I don't know about any lean. Eucalyptus tend to grow pretty plumb out here though.


Windy out that way perhaps?


----------



## macstrange

During monsoon season.


----------



## macstrange

Coffee table of mesquite with eucalyptus keys.


----------



## macstrange




----------



## KiwiBro

I know it sounds gimicky but sometimes just laying a bit of luminescent powder mixed with resin into those cracks can turn them into a stunning feature. Is a blue colour available that could look good in there. There's a crowd somewhere that goes one step further and adds tiny LEDs. I know, it sounds trashy but they look spectacular.


----------



## macstrange

I normally use a copper dye. I have crysocholla that I'll be using also. This was a trade and I've got to much into it already.


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Driftwood table I built and sold. I built the tube steel legs and antiqued them.a maple burl table and a few clocks I made.


----------



## macstrange

They look great. Awesome job on the legs!

shawn


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

A couple more pics of the driftwood table.


----------



## rarefish383

Is that an epoxy resin finish?


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Min wax high build gloss poly. Not super happy with it.


----------



## macstrange

Minwax is terrible. Here's an idea a friend of mine suggested, Zep acrylic floor finish. $20/gal. Looks pretty easy to apply, durable and cheap. pretty thin out of the bottle so it should spray a lot easier than other finishes. I'm going to give it a shot on my next proj. 
Also try waterlox tung oil. A few coats rubbed with steel wool between each and finish with a good wax .

shawn


----------



## kimosawboy

Not a fan of the thick gloss finish, but different strokes....
Looks like you have lots of air bubles in it, did you apply heat after applying??Not bashing you or anything but I find that MinWax is a pretty decent product. Are you not happy with the product or the end result on the table???
G Vavra

Zep Floor finish is not recommended for wood


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Not happy with the dust spots and bubbles in the finish. I like the thick looking gloss finish though so I have to play around with it till I find something I like.


----------



## Greenland South

2treeornot2tree said:


> A couple more pics of the driftwood table.


I really like that table. I hope it gets put some where it won't get walked into during a power failure.


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

When you say apply heat, do you mean with a heat gun or hair dryer


----------



## lone wolf

2treeornot2tree said:


> Not happy with the dust spots and bubbles in the finish. I like the thick looking gloss finish though so I have to play around with it till I find something I like.


Are you sanding between each coat?


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Yeah. The gloss just shows every defect


----------



## lone wolf

2treeornot2tree said:


> Yeah. The gloss just shows every defect


Maybe less coats?


----------



## kimosawboy

A heat gun or hair dryer moves too much air , much easier with a blowtorch...
The guy in this video does it a good way.


----------



## macstrange

He's using resin. I'm not sure if this would work with a water base or oil base finish. 

shawn


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

I have used a torch to get the bubbles out of dura deck before. I would think the poly fumes would ignite


----------



## KiwiBro

Am no expert and haven't done so for a while but here what worked for me when was doing it a fair bit back in the day.

Don't over cook (but obviously don't under cook it too) the epoxy mix and that will help give time for some bubbles (pay attention to how you are mixing it too) time to settle out of the container and out of the finish, get the pouring space and wood up a few degrees hotter than ambient and then kill the heat just before pouring and let the falling heat gradient take some potential puff out of the air in the wood surface, a small propane torch (I liked the ones that screw directly onto a small can) are good for popping bubbles (not much air movement and only very fleeting and localised spike in heat). Got to keep dust out of the air. It seems to wait in the wings and then dive in once you start putting the resin on. So, if you can wet the floor, stop all air movement (if can't guarantee the dust free air then do so only atfer you are done with the torch or the vendor says the fumes won't ignite) (or positve pressure the room), and at the very least build a cover over your work until it sets, then it does help.

Mind you, there are times when I would have been much happier with quite a bit of dust than no dust but one die-hard kamakazi flying insect that leaves a history of their struggle for you to read the next morning.


----------



## Nato

KiwiBro said:


> Am no expert and haven't done so for a while but here what worked for me when was doing it a fair bit back in the day.
> 
> Don't over cook (but obviously don't under cook it too) the epoxy mix and that will help give time for some bubbles (pay attention to how you are mixing it too) time to settle out of the container and out of the finish, get the pouring space and wood up a few degrees hotter than ambient and then kill the heat just before pouring and let the falling heat gradient take some potential puff out of the air in the wood surface, a small propane torch (I liked the ones that screw directly onto a small can) are good for popping bubbles (not much air movement and only very fleeting and localised spike in heat). Got to keep dust out of the air. It seems to wait in the wings and then dive in once you start putting the resin on. So, if you can wet the floor, stop all air movement (if can't guarantee the dust free air then do so only atfer you are done with the torch or the vendor says the fumes won't ignite) (or positve pressure the room), and at the very least build a cover over your work until it sets, then it does help.
> 
> Mind you, there are times when I would have been much happier with quite a bit of dust than no dust but one die-hard kamakazi flying insect that leaves a history of their struggle for you to read the next morning.





KiwiBro said:


> Am no expert and haven't done so for a while but here what worked for me when was doing it a fair bit back in the day.
> 
> Don't over cook (but obviously don't under cook it too) the epoxy mix and that will help give time for some bubbles (pay attention to how you are mixing it too) time to settle out of the container and out of the finish, get the pouring space and wood up a few degrees hotter than ambient and then kill the heat just before pouring and let the falling heat gradient take some potential puff out of the air in the wood surface, a small propane torch (I liked the ones that screw directly onto a small can) are good for popping bubbles (not much air movement and only very fleeting and localised spike in heat). Got to keep dust out of the air. It seems to wait in the wings and then dive in once you start putting the resin on. So, if you can wet the floor, stop all air movement (if can't guarantee the dust free air then do so only atfer you are done with the torch or the vendor says the fumes won't ignite) (or positve pressure the room), and at the very least build a cover over your work until it sets, then it does help.
> 
> Mind you, there are times when I would have been much happier with quite a bit of dust than no dust but one die-hard kamakazi flying insect that leaves a history of their struggle for you to read the next morning.


Yup


KiwiBro said:


> Am no expert and haven't done so for a while but here what worked for me when was doing it a fair bit back in the day.
> 
> Don't over cook (but obviously don't under cook it too) the epoxy mix and that will help give time for some bubbles (pay attention to how you are mixing it too) time to settle out of the container and out of the finish, get the pouring space and wood up a few degrees hotter than ambient and then kill the heat just before pouring and let the falling heat gradient take some potential puff out of the air in the wood surface, a small propane torch (I liked the ones that screw directly onto a small can) are good for popping bubbles (not much air movement and only very fleeting and localised spike in heat). Got to keep dust out of the air. It seems to wait in the wings and then dive in once you start putting the resin on. So, if you can wet the floor, stop all air movement (if can't guarantee the dust free air then do so only atfer you are done with the torch or the vendor says the fumes won't ignite) (or positve pressure the room), and at the very least build a cover over your work until it sets, then it does help.
> 
> Mind you, there are times when I would have been much happier with quite a bit of dust than no dust but one die-hard kamakazi flying insect that leaves a history of their struggle for you to read the next morning.


Yup I've read a little braille in the morning also. It always reads "I got you sucker!"


----------



## Jumpsuit

Tablesaw onfeed & general work table


----------



## rarefish383

Yes I like it. A friend at Church is a custom cabinet maker. I took some of my big Pine slabs to his shop, he has a 42" double belt sander. He has tables that look like plywood boxes on casters that are all the same height as his in and out feeds on all of his equipment. Ran four slabs through and stacked them on one box, wheeled it back and ran them thru again. Having the right tools just makes life so easy, Joe.


----------



## rarefish383

Here's a pic of the little table I made that lines up with all of my in and out feeds. If I ever get a real shop I'll probably make a bunch of these, they just are so darn handy, Joe.









I don't know if I'll bother with a coat of poly or anything because I'll be beating it up with stuff like that little Marble fountain. The fountain came from an old historic restaurant. It's pink and white. I took it to a stone shop and they said it can be refinished and will be beautiful. I asked how do you refinish Marble, with sand paper, it's quite soft. I did a little spot on the bottom. I'm afraid if I try to do it I might screw up the contours. Fine sand paper takes a good bit off easily. I might just wait till I have the cash and let the stone guy do it, Joe.


----------



## steve easy

Matai coat rack.


----------



## steve easy




----------



## steve easy




----------



## Project of the day




----------



## KiwiBro

steve easy said:


> View attachment 432099
> View attachment 432100
> View attachment 432104
> View attachment 432105


Looking great as always. Is that the floor of the commissioned shed/hut/minor dwelling? What are those extra checks out of the bearer for? Door jack studs or sumfing like that? Maybe somewhere for stairs to land on?

I keep hearing The Flintstones music playing in my head when looking at your tables. Love 'em. How are you doing those mortices? Drill+chisel? Carving bar + chisel? Could never afford nor justify a proper morticer and too stoopid to modify the drill press myself, so someone gave me one of those tiny belt sanders - the ones that are only about 1/2" wide. Put a rough grit belt on one of those and can really mow through the slots.


----------



## KiwiBro

Project of the day said:


>


 that bearer/bottom plate isn't going anywhere any time soon. Lovely joint, thanks for sharing. Can I ask what wood that is and if you have any membrane between it and the stone/concrete please? We'd need the pine to be heavily treated with preservatives if we tried that here with our plantation Pinus Radiata. Even then, they'd probably make us put a flashing from the top of that all the way down to over the top of the concrete, in addition to a damp-proof course/membrane between the concrete and the wood.


----------



## Project of the day

KiwiBro said:


> that bearer/bottom plate isn't going anywhere any time soon. Lovely joint, thanks for sharing. Can I ask what wood that is and if you have any membrane between it and the stone/concrete please? We'd need the pine to be heavily treated with preservatives if we tried that here with our plantation Pinus Radiata. Even then, they'd probably make us put a flashing from the top of that all the way down to over the top of the concrete, in addition to a damp-proof course/membrane between the concrete and the wood.



I use pine that died standing and allowed to dry for a couple of years standing in the woods. This will create more code in it and it becomes more rot proof.
I thin memran between the stone and the log made of tar. Do not think it necessary for the foundation is so dry in my house


----------



## steve easy

KiwiBro said:


> Looking great as always. Is that the floor of the commissioned shed/hut/minor dwelling? What are those extra checks out of the bearer for? Door jack studs or sumfing like that? Maybe somewhere for stairs to land on?
> 
> I keep hearing The Flintstones music playing in my head when looking at your tables. Love 'em. How are you doing those mortices? Drill+chisel? Carving bar + chisel? Could never afford nor justify a proper morticer and too stoopid to modify the drill press myself, so someone gave me one of those tiny belt sanders - the ones that are only about 1/2" wide. Put a rough grit belt on one of those and can really mow through the slots.


 
Yes, one of them. The other timber frame one is moving along slowly. Joists are dovetailed onto bearer and i was too lazy to make the cuts fit the bearer exactly. I will get a side on pic of it. Started with just mallet and chisel, hog out as much wood with a drill then finish with a chisel. Got a lock morticer now, not as fast as a chain morticer but it does the job. I have one of those tiny belt sanders too ,good idea bro i will have to try it out.


----------



## BobL

Not my makings (well I helped make it) but designed by one of the seniors (85 years old) at my local mens shed from some boards I milled up for him a couple of weeks back.


----------



## Boon

Nice design, what species is it?


----------



## BobL

Spotted gum


----------



## Boon

He's done very well to come up with that design, good to see


----------



## steve easy

Mac table, top is 2m long 1.4 at widest.


----------



## steve easy

Last big slab i milled, 3m x 1.5m.


----------



## carhartted

That track link table is awesome.


----------



## Project of the day

continues work on my wall


----------



## Dustyw

Walnut tree from our yard. We live in my wife's great grandparents house, lots of memories from that tree. Finished with boiled linseed oil and clear laquer. 

I even made the crown moulding! Fake electric fire, still working on the bottom for ideas.


----------



## KiwiBro

Project of the day said:


> continues work on my wall



Logosol make some nice equipment. I would buy one of their framesaws, but it will take many more years of saving.


----------



## Wayne68

My first attempt at a rustic coffee table. If this log furniture thing keeps going its going to seriously affect my stockpile of logs for firewood


----------



## Greenland South

First of a few beams I milled up for the loft floor at the hangout.


----------



## toolfreak




----------



## steve easy

Cabin progress, still in the dark with rafter measuring and cutting ended up making a template which helped get it done.


----------



## kimosawboy

Finished this up this week..Ate up most of the Maple I had around..
Overall measurements are :Length 72”, Width 36”, Height 32.75”...
The top is built using 2”x2”x2.75”maple end grain blocks (lots and lots)/ legs solid 5"x5"..
Last pic for scale...
G Vavra


----------



## KiwiBro

steve easy said:


> Cabin progress, still in the dark with rafter measuring and cutting ended up making a template which helped get it done.


Hopefully someone is paying a fair price for the amount of work gone into that. Probably have a spare "rafters, lengths and bevels" book floating about from my building days if you want me to have a look in the shed.

Might feel like cheating, but you could probably make up a router jig that adjusts for different seat/heel/plumb angles and depths for those birdsmouths, then have an option to run a rounding-over bit on the top edges of the ridge beam to avoid having to square off the birdsmouths with a chisel.

I think I know what I'm going to be doing with some of that Fastigata I wasn't sure about now, if it doesn't self-destruct while air-drying.


----------



## steve easy

KiwiBro said:


> Hopefully someone is paying a fair price for the amount of work gone into that. Probably have a spare "rafters, lengths and bevels" book floating about from my building days if you want me to have a look in the shed.
> 
> Might feel like cheating, but you could probably make up a router jig that adjusts for different seat/heel/plumb angles and depths for those birdsmouths, then have an option to run a rounding-over bit on the top edges of the ridge beam to avoid having to square off the birdsmouths with a chisel.
> 
> I think I know what I'm going to be doing with some of that Fastigata I wasn't sure about now, if it doesn't self-destruct while air-drying.


No home for it yet, lots of people like it. 150 hrs and 10 cube, would only consider selling to some one who appreciates it, bargain hunters will be shown the gate. Quite happy to keep it for a smoko hut. Thanks for the book offer but i really need a expert to show me. Next cabin wont have a ridge.

Using a chisel is a breeze after sharpening with sandpaper on glass, scary sharp. 

A fastigata cabin would be bloody heavy, but very cool.


----------



## KiwiBro

Do you have a demo' one at Barry's yet? Seeing/touching is probably going to help people part with the sort of $ required.

The only expert I know has succumbed to dementia. A shame as he was worth travelling the length of the country to learn from. Must be some mens sheds or woodworking/turning guilds somewhere, or youtube?

Hmmm, no ridge next time? I suggest getting the greenest temperamental timber you can find and making up a few test joints and seeing how they perform as the wood seasons. Heaps of learning potential doing that. More than simply using seasoned wood from the outset.


----------



## carhartted

How are you cutting the dovetail corners on the building?


----------



## steve easy

carhartted said:


> How are you cutting the dovetail corners on the building?


 With a ms211 and Fred Beals jigs, logdovetailjig.com


----------



## steve easy

KiwiBro said:


> Do you have a demo' one at Barry's yet? Seeing/touching is probably going to help people part with the sort of $ required.
> 
> The only expert I know has succumbed to dementia. A shame as he was worth travelling the length of the country to learn from. Must be some mens sheds or woodworking/turning guilds somewhere, or youtube?
> 
> Hmmm, no ridge next time? I suggest getting the greenest temperamental timber you can find and making up a few test joints and seeing how they perform as the wood seasons. Heaps of learning potential doing that. More than simply using seasoned wood from the outset.


 
Barrys not opening to the public so wont see any foot traffic through his work.
Your a bad influence, spend far too much time on youtube thanks to you, thats where i came across the chisel sharpening.
No ridge, open mortice and tennon at rafter peak with collar ties with a step lapped seat. I know how to measure and layout for that. I always use green wood, like watching how it performs sometimes i get it wrong and choose to use the wrong piece.


----------



## zwoehr

@steve easy I like the dovetailed corners a lot. Haven't seen that before. Why do you build the roof on the ground and how do you raise it when you're done?


----------



## zwoehr

@Wayne68 do you use an adze to texture and hog out your pieces or some kind of power tool that recreates the texture? I know Festool makes one that is sort of like a plunge planer with curved blades.


----------



## steve easy

zwoehr said:


> @steve easy I like the dovetailed corners a lot. Haven't seen that before. Why do you build the roof on the ground and how do you raise it when you're done?


 

Built on ground so i didnt have to go up and down a ladder a heap of times, i am not that great with heights. Used a 6x6, ropes and chainblock to get the ridge up.


----------



## KiwiBro

steve easy said:


> Your a bad influence


 You can bloody talk. I just wired the $ today for a bit of machinery you suggested a while back that I already knew about but needed a nudge. As a clue, it goes round and round and Barry has one. I'm calling it the manukinator.


----------



## steve easy

Its very hypnotic to watch it work, i had trouble tearing myself away from it first time i saw it in person, videos are just not the same.


----------



## hamish

Just my take on an real simple Irish cupboard for the Hunt Camp.


And table.


----------



## BobL

One of my SIL's cooks for large groups e.g. community events, and asked me if I would replace her big wooden spoon that broke recently.
Here it is up against a regular size wooden spoon the big spoon is ~20" long.
The wood is Olive milled on my upright BS using a Sled.


----------



## 820wards

BobL said:


> One of my SIL's cooks for large groups e.g. community events, and asked me if I would replace her big wooden spoon that broke recently.
> Here it is up against a regular size wooden spoon the big spoon is ~20" long.
> The wood is Olive milled on my upright BS using a Sled.
> View attachment 458139


Morning Bob,
Now that's a big spoon!
jerry-


----------



## ToMang07

Just started cutting beams to replace 1 side of the roof and one of the 2nd floor support beams for my carriage house. I'll probably be cutting 1" planks for the roof as well.


----------



## tribalwind

Harvest table for our garden parties, scroll art wall piece for a yoga festival, end table for a small space in our living room


----------



## kimosawboy

I was asked to made a set of benches from some fir log ends that were left over from a log house reno. 
One bench was dedicated to the father for helping them secure the house and land, the other bench was dedicated to friends past.
There were seven pcs. with the average diameter of about 14"and about 44" in length, freehanded the center cut then tossed on the mill set at just under 3". Fastened with big ass dowels/lag bolt plus Titebond glue.
I never did grab a pic of the other bench..


----------



## Wayne68

zwoehr said:


> @Wayne68 do you use an adze to texture and hog out your pieces or some kind of power tool that recreates the texture? I know Festool makes one that is sort of like a plunge planer with curved blades.



Hey sorry for the delayed reply, been clearing some land for a new house and shop that will be started this spring. The only power tool I used from start to finish on that table was a chainsaw, the rest was done by hand. I bore cut out the center of the table base with the saw, then used a log notch gouge to scrape away all the chain marks from the table top and inside of the base. I brushed polyurethane on everything after that, lightly sanded the table base after I peeled the bark off as well.


----------



## Cody Colston

This is the final chair of a 4-chair set I built for our pool cabana. The chairs are all in different woods...Red Oak, Hickory, Ash and this Walnut, since I didn't have enough 8/4 stock of one species to do them all. It's based loosely on the Maloof low-back chair design although I made my own templates and changed the dimensions and some details. I think I cut up three 2' x 4' sheets of 1/4" mdf making templates and even made a change after completing this last chair. Maybe the next one, whenever that is, will look the way I want.

Since they will live outside in a covered, open-sided area, finish is marine varnish. It's a plasticy look but hopefully it will hold up to what sunlight and moisture get in there.


----------



## kimosawboy

Nice looking chairs Cody..
There are a lot of things to like about a Maloof chair, yet there is one or two things that dont work for me (all personal taste). I will be starting to play with chairs in the coming weeks and i will be implementing several of the details from Maloof chairs.
G Vavra


----------



## Shawn Curry

Wow - great looking projects fellas! I'm almost embarrassed to post mine now...

This is what I've got cooking in Santa's workshop. Maple + Walnut cutting boards for my mom and sister. The maple is from a tree that grew on my property, and the walnut grew on my sisters. These blocks were all salvaged from some milling scraps that were headed for the firewood stacks.


----------



## Todd Peterson

Aspen night stands built with aspen lumber I milled last summer.


----------



## redoakneck

Some red oak, didn't take very good pics, my buddy's all trade me stuff and take the boards, I just keep milling


Tearing down the 088 for piston replacement now

My buddy wanted me to loan it to him,...hmmm


----------



## redoakneck




----------



## Shawn Curry

Here's how my cutting boards turned out: 




I just finished this up last night - 5 shelf rolling shop cart. The lumber is red maple from one of my trees, and 1/2" sanded oak ply.


----------



## Timberframed

Good work! What would be more interesting is what are you going to cut on those cutting boards? beings diner time and all. A fat and juicy porterhouse with mushrooms and leeks ? fer starters?


----------



## rarefish383

tribalwind said:


> Harvest table for our garden parties, scroll art wall piece for a yoga festival, end table for a small space in our living room



Wow, I don't know how I missed your harvest table, but I'm glad I was going through older stuff looking for ideas. I really like the gutter/planter. I have 3 Dawn Redwood logs waiting for the snow to melt off of them. I think one is going to be a copy of your table. Thanks for posting that one, Joe.


----------



## hautions11

Entry table from Walnut. Curved front. Walnut tree from the yard.


----------



## rarefish383

That is a pretty little table. So far all I've made have been 3 inch thick slab benches and small slab tables. I need to start hanging around friends that do real carpentry work, and learn how to do something like your table. That's something to be proud of, Joe.


----------



## hautions11

Not as nice as 28 kitchen cabinet doors, 16 drawers. Walnut.


----------



## Runknpap

hautions11 said:


> Not as nice as 28 kitchen cabinet doors, 16 drawers. Walnut.


Has these cabinets begun to warp. It almost looks like they have. If so how dry was the lumber when you built it ? Was it aired dried or kiln dried ?


----------



## hautions11

That one door is hitting something in the cabinet . The doors are very long at 46 inches as it is an 11' ceiling. They were kiln dried before I started the project. I 
Did install magnets to hold the doors tighter to the frames.


----------



## Runknpap

Sweet. You did a Awsome job on them must have taken a lot of walnut and time picking threw the pile.


----------



## hautions11

With such long doors, the wimpy springs in self closing hinges just did not cut it. Two trees made up the wood for cabinets. One was 32" in diameter.


----------



## BigOakAdot

Finally got my router sled up and running after dragging my feet for a while. I knew for my first ever project I wanted to make it as simple as possible. 

This is a cherry log I found on Craigslist. 






I used epoxy dyed with black pigment for the cracks, and stained it with teak oil. I really like the way it feels to the touch. Very natural feel to it. 

Those hairpin legs I got for super cheap from etsy for 50 bucks. They are not super strong and have some flex to them. The result is a slightly wobbly table which isn't ideal of course. I guess you get what you pay for. 

Any advice on metal legs and where to buy them is appreciated.

BOA


----------



## Czech_Made

IKEA has selection of table legs: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/categories/departments/workspaces/11845/


----------



## Sawyer Rob

I wanted to build myself a new deer blind, and I got started my harvesting wind damaged tree's, mostly dead white pines,







Then skidding them to my mill site,






Cutting the logs out and milling them to the dimensions I needed,






I only bought some PT 4x6's for the post going in the ground and had some old PT 2x6's for the rim for the post. Everything else I milled to the sizes I wanted,






Anyway, I kept harvesting/milling and building as I had time,






The 35 year shingles, were left over from a job and given to me by a friend,






Time to mill some sideing!
















The windows, I bought along the road, I think I have 20 bucks in all of them,











And I even managed to get a "meat buck" for my freezer out of it in the fall,






Anyway, it's a GREAT place to spend time and watch the deer and turkey go by, even when I'm not hunting!

SR


----------



## SawmillMan

Cabinets, doors and flooring mostly. Musical instruments in the past as well as numerous structures.


----------



## SawmillMan

Sawyer Rob said:


> I wanted to build myself a new deer blind, and I got started my harvesting wind damaged tree's, mostly dead white pines,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then skidding them to my mill site,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting the logs out and milling them to the dimensions I needed,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only bought some PT 4x6's for the post going in the ground and had some old PT 2x6's for the rim for the post. Everything else I milled to the sizes I wanted,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I kept harvesting/milling and building as I had time,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 35 year shingles, were left over from a job and given to me by a friend,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to mill some sideing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The windows, I bought along the road, I think I have 20 bucks in all of them,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I even managed to get a "meat buck" for my freezer out of it in the fall,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, it's a GREAT place to spend time and watch the deer and turkey go by, even when I'm not hunting!
> 
> SR


Nice job.


----------



## Calisdad

Ammonia fumed stools (oak & cedar).


----------



## SawmillMan

SawmillMan said:


> View attachment 489909
> Cabinets, doors and flooring mostly. Musical instruments in the past as well as numerous structures.


Working on doors this week. Glued them together (8 of them) and shaped the door edges. An edge gives a door a more refined appeal. 

Will sand and hopefully apply finish next week. This wood was milled from trees taken down by a local municipal parks department.


----------



## Czech_Made

Love that door, do you have more pictures of it somewhere? The wife wants new entrance door and I have some white oak squirreled away I could use. But doors are a huge job in my opinion.


----------



## SawmillMan

Czech_Made said:


> Love that door, do you have more pictures of it somewhere? The wife wants new entrance door and I have some white oak squirreled away I could use. But doors are a huge job in my opinion.[/QUOTE
> 
> I can take more photos. For years I've made entryway doors. They really are easier than you imagine. The majority of the doors I make are arch-topped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife makes my insulated stained glass overlays. I'll tell you everything I know and you can keep or discard any of it as you wish. You CAN make a door.


----------



## Czech_Made

Impressive! If my wife likes something better than custom doors, it would be custom door with an arch. 

I have some experience - I made windows for my shop, some tables, some jointed boxes, no door yet. Also scored 8x80 jointer while ago, love that beast.

I will appreciate any info you send my way.


----------



## lumberjackchef

Some new stuff we been doing....








Next is the countertop where the sink will be. Here is the gorgeous slab for it..





Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk


----------



## MGoodwin

Spalted big leaf maple, walnut bow ties. Finished with wipe on poly (first time using it, was impressed with the results). Bow ties in legs are full depth and top ties are 1" deep (top is about 2" thick).


----------



## DTrap

That is a beautiful bench. Excellent work


----------



## Runknpap

Needed a work bench so I threw this together. Cherry


----------



## DTrap

The work bench looks great. Should serve you well for many years.


----------



## DaveLindsay

Awesome looking workbench. You just gave me an idea hope you don't mind me pinching the concept.
Regards DaveL


----------



## Enrico Carini

Almost finished with an end grain walnut butcher block countertop. Over 1000 individual pieces


----------



## rarefish383

WOW, that looks incredible, how long did it take to fit the pieces? Joe.


----------



## Enrico Carini

Thanks, the project took me about nine months start to finish. This is not including cutting down the tree and milling the wood


----------



## Shawn Curry

It's gorgeous! Are the lighter colored pieces walnut sapwood?

Can I interest you in a matching cutting board?  Just kidding - my girlfriend would pizzed. The lighter pieces are spalted maple. My trees.


----------



## Enrico Carini

Thanks Shawn, I love the figuring in spalted maple, hoping to get my hands on some someday.

The lighter pieces are the sapwood, It's all walnut and will be finished with beeswax and mineral oil after I ease the edges. I did it end grain so that it's nice on my expensive Japanese knives


----------



## BobL

Some of you may know I slabbed a lot of logs back in 2007/8/9. I've sold a few slabs but have hardly used any myself . Poor storage had led to some losses and the packs of slabs stored in the open have gone quite grey in the strong Aussie sunshine. Earlier this year I received a request from a relative to make them some small wine racks and they gave me some designs which used rough sawn timber and I asked if I could used weathered wood with natural edges and the relative said that would be great. Yesterday I brought two slabs of Spotted Gum home and started breaking them up for this project and hopefully I will have something to show in a few days.


----------



## Shawn Curry

Black Walnut "magazine crate". Birthday present for my sister. The wood came from scraps and cutoffs from milling her tree.


----------



## BigOakAdot

This is super small and not wood I milled. Just free handed a locust cookie and inlayed a picture and filled it with epoxy. Saved me over 200 dollars my fiancé wanted a bathing suit for her bday. She's happy and so am I that I saved the money.


----------



## bikemike

Cottonwood slabs stand for fire pit benches.


This is silver maple that I made lastyear

This is going to be a fund my wishlist chainsaw bench it will be a rocker and hope to get 5 bills for it. This is just the mock up of the bench that I did Sunday lots of work to do still


----------



## BigOakAdot

Nice benches. I'll be making similar ones with half logs of walnut I pirated from a job. Still need to get the fire pit made.


----------



## bikemike

BigOakAdot said:


> Nice benches. I'll be making similar ones with half logs of walnut I pirated from a job. Still need to get the fire pit made.



did these at a customers house. Yes they paid me but the draw back was they had to listen to a piped poulan doing the milling freehand


----------



## BigOakAdot

bikemike said:


> View attachment 496540
> did these at a customers house. Yes they paid me but the draw back was they had to listen to a piped poulan doing the milling freehand


That's exactly how I plan on doing mine. Thanks for the pics.


----------



## bikemike

BigOakAdot said:


> That's exactly how I plan on doing mine. Thanks for the pics.


Call those Flintstones benches and the customers liked them. Simple few cuts and they done


----------



## BobL

I really like the bench designs and will probably copy a couple of elements in my next job - If I can convince the landscape architect that is ;-)
One thing I've found in cutting benches was that rough cut surfaces where people sit did not always appeal to some customers.
When I offered them an alternative between rough and smooth seating surfaces they always went for for smooth.
On non-seating surfaces they prefer rough cut, and one customer even asked me to re-cut a couple of smooth surfaces. 

With relatively little effort this is the sort of finish I can get with my CSM.
Some people that see these cuts for the first time don't believe that it was done with a CS.
If you want to know how to do this just ask.


----------



## DaveLindsay

BigOakAdot said:


> This is super small and not wood I milled. Just free handed a locust cookie and inlayed a picture and filled it with epoxy. Saved me over 200 dollars my fiancé wanted a bathing suit for her bday. She's happy and so am I that I saved the money. View attachment 496526


Awesome looking frame - just remember that sometimes the presents they ask for come with ancillary benefits.


----------



## bikemike

BobL said:


> I really like the bench designs and will probably copy a couple of elements in my next job - If I can convince the landscape architect that is ;-)
> One thing I've found in cutting benches was that rough cut surfaces where people sit did not always appeal to some customers.
> When I offered them an alternative between rough and smooth seating surfaces they always went for for smooth.
> On non-seating surfaces they prefer rough cut, and one customer even asked me to re-cut a couple of smooth surfaces.
> 
> With relatively little effort this is the sort of finish I can get with my CSM.
> Some people that see these cuts for the first time don't believe that it was done with a CS.
> If you want to know how to do this just ask.
> View attachment 496578


Yeah its not a job just a hobby the rough goes away easy with a good few thick coats of outdoor spar urethane but I like the saw marks cause it don't look like it came out of a shop, I do take it down a Lil bit with a belt sander before I coat them.


----------



## bikemike

BobL said:


> I really like the bench designs and will probably copy a couple of elements in my next job - If I can convince the landscape architect that is ;-)
> One thing I've found in cutting benches was that rough cut surfaces where people sit did not always appeal to some customers.
> When I offered them an alternative between rough and smooth seating surfaces they always went for for smooth.
> On non-seating surfaces they prefer rough cut, and one customer even asked me to re-cut a couple of smooth surfaces.
> 
> With relatively little effort this is the sort of finish I can get with my CSM.
> Some people that see these cuts for the first time don't believe that it was done with a CS.
> If you want to know how to do this just ask.
> View attachment 496578


Was that slab oiled up? Sure had some nice caricature


----------



## BobL

This is a small commission job for a gent in his late eighties.
His close friends are having a 60th Wedding anniversary and this is his gift to them.
The gent and his friends worked together for years in a tiny milling hamlet in the middle of the only Tuart forest in the world.
The hamlet sent milled Tuart to a nearby town via a 10 mile long railway to be shipped to Europe - mainly to England as railroad road ties.
Now the railway has long gone and the forest is a National park.
The spikes are from the from the old railway line and the wood is from the Tuart log I milled into a park bench a few weeks back.
The names and dates are laser engraved direct onto the wood by a friend of mine.
Th customer wanted the wood left rough sawn but I convinced him that I should at least sand the top so the engraving could be done more easily


----------



## bikemike

BobL said:


> This is a small commission job for a gent in his late eighties.
> His close friends are having a 60th Wedding anniversary and this is his gift to them.
> The gent and his friends worked together for years in a tiny milling hamlet in the middle of the only Tuart forest in the world.
> The hamlet sent the Tuart to a nearby town by a 10 mile railway to be shipped to Europe - mainly to England as railroad road ties.
> Now the railway has long gone and the forest is a National park.
> The spikes are from the from the old railway line and the wood is from the Tuart log I milled into a park bench a few weeks back.
> The names and dates are laser engraved direct onto the wood by a friend of mine.
> Th customer wanted the wood left rough sawn but I convinced him that I should at least sand the top so the engraving could be done more easily
> View attachment 496636
> View attachment 496637


That is really cool


----------



## BobL

This is one of two wine racks I said I would make as a present for my nieces wedding almost 6 months ago.
My niece showed me a design done in salvaged timber that she wanted me to copy but I suggested a natural edge rough sawn look instead.

The timber is from a Spotted Gum log milled in 2008 and the slabs have been left exposed to open air since then.
The timber, especially the stuff close to the natural edge is hardly construction grade but its fine for this decorative stuff.
All the timber has been deliberately left undressed so all the original CS marks are present on the timber.
It's far from flat and even working with short pieces is tricky to make a squarish frame.
Drilling close to the edge for the steel rods was a bit of a lottery - on one hole the drill bit tracked a crack in the grain leaving the hole out of position by half an inch so I turned up a plug of the original wood and plugged the hole so I could drill it again,



The frame is dowelled together with 1/2" dowelling.
The original plan only catered for the standard height 3" diameter wine bottle but this design caters for the fatter (3.5" diameter) bottle.
One thing I did nit realise is that there are some 3" diam bottles that are slightly taller that the standard bottle - these still fit in the upright side but not in the horizontal side.



Old natural edges just have that special look about them


----------



## DaveLindsay

Anything that involves wine and wood have got to be good. So you got the modular frame set, next is a bank of them?


----------



## BobL

DaveLindsay said:


> Anything that involves wine and wood have got to be good. So you got the modular frame set, next is a bank of them?



The next one is going to be a different design and using dressed timber from the same slab - sort of a contrast in wood.


----------



## BobL

Just a tragic update on the block with the railway dogs in it.
The gift was very well received by the anniversary couple and all the relatives at the celebration party also liked it.
Unfortunately later that night the male half of the anniversary couple suffered a major heart attack and passed away.


----------



## DTrap

Wow Bob. Very sorry to hear that.


----------



## BobL

DTrap said:


> Wow Bob. Very sorry to hear that.


Thanks Dtrap - I didn't know the individual concerned but making someones 60th anniversary gift just seems to generate a small connection so there is some small feeling there.


----------



## DTrap

Yeah I understand the feeling Bob. When something like this happens to me it always serves to remind me just how fast things can change in life. Tomorrow is never guaranteed let alone the rest of today. After spending 2 months with my twins in the New Born Intensive Care Unit I gained an appreciation for life that I had never really understood before. It's funny how long life can feel sometimes yet in reality it is so very short. I learned fast in those two months to slow down and appreciate the little stuff in life that so many people tend to overlook.


----------



## DTrap

And what a great treat to live to see a 60th anniversary. I can only hope to see that milestone in my lifetime. I'm 36 now and my wife and I are 15 years in so I feel blessed to have started our journey early in life and hope to see that goal someday.


----------



## Czech_Made

Pigeon home. I used pine log to run test cuts and now those boards came handy, when we needed home for pigeons.


----------



## DaveLindsay

Nearly finished building our gazebo/arbor from the West Aus. Flooded Gum we milled several weeks back. Spent quite a bit of time dressing and routing each of the pieces. All the timber has been liberally coated in a linseed oil and turpentine mix. Just in time for a fire, sausage sizzle and a beer tonight.




Eventually it will have a few extra rafters added and be completely covered in grapes, surrounded by fruit trees.


----------



## Czech_Made

I like that, Dave ^^^


----------



## DTrap

Looks really nice Dave. Will really be nice with the grapes growing on it.


----------



## rarefish383

Just make sure Czech's pigeons don't roost in the grapes while you are working on the sausage and beer. Both projects look nice! The pigeons look happy. I've often thought of a gazebo like that with Wisteria vine. I always liked the purple flowers, Joe.


----------



## DaveLindsay

The next little project to go milling timber for will be a hexagon arbor for my daughter and that will covered in wisteria that she grew from seed.


----------



## DaveLindsay

rarefish383 said:


> Just make sure Czech's pigeons don't roost in the grapes while you are working on the sausage and beer. Both projects look nice! The pigeons look happy. I've often thought of a gazebo like that with Wisteria vine. I always liked the purple flowers, Joe.


I'm sure pigeon with a red wine jus would be an acceptable appetiser.


----------



## Shawn Curry

English Walnut - made these for my mom for Mothers Day.


----------



## bobbobbobbob

This is an oak garden table that I made last week that will be getting a pair of matched benches this week as its a wedding gift for the nephew.


----------



## rarefish383

Nice table, love the live edges, Joe.


----------



## bobbobbobbob

Thanks gives it that rustic authentic look which I find quite appealing for outdoor furniture.


----------



## BobL

About 2 years ago, one of the old timers with bad hips and knees at the Community Mens shed asked me if I would be able to supply him with some smallish piece of solid timber to make some cutting boards out of.
It was going to be his contribution to products to be sold at a fair we were supposed to be having.
Down at the milling yard I found an old grey slab of a Queensland Box amongst the discard pile and took it home.

I knew it was going to be beyond the old timer's ability to break up the slab so I though I would do that and while I was at it I would pass it though through my thicknesser.

And this is what I delivered to him at the shed. This a very common street tree in my area - makes me look at them in a new light.



Two years on and the fair never happened because we has very little to sell, and the old timer stopped coming to the shed - poor bloke can barely walk with the aid of a walker.

Last week we were having a bit of a clean up and I found 3 of the 4 blanks in the metal shop under a pile of oily rusty metal. One of the blanks had been used as a base on which to drill holes into something and I don't know where the 4th one has gone.

I took the blanks home, passed them through the thicknesser again to remove the oily stains and drill hole marks. Then a quick pass over the router table, a couple of coats of food safe oil and here they are.




The cutting boards will be put up for sale at a fair in a couple of months. At least we now have something to sell, actually the blokes have been making a fat bit of stuff so it's looking pretty good so far.


----------



## Cedar Eater

My first project with CSMed lumber is a hay wagon for hauling large round hay bales. In theory it will hold at least 14 of them and they weigh about 1000 lbs. each. The length is slightly over 21 feet. The width of the deck boards will be 9'. The span between the wagon axles is 13'. The width to the outer edge of the two main beams is 42". The deck boards will be CSMed 2 X 6 minimum and hardwood, probably quaking or bigtooth aspen. The frame is black oak. The two main beams are 8 X 12 X 21', milled freehand with an MS 250. From the butt log of one of the trees, I freehanded a 12 X 12 X 11' cant and then built a CSM and got 5 usable 2" boards from it, using my MS 250 with an 18" bar and a .325 ripping chain. From those five boards, I made the outriggers, their braces, and the front and rear end plates.


----------



## SawmillMan

Finally finished the walnut cabinets and have been watching my son build another guitar.



Mother of burl inlay around the rosette made from black walnut. Anxious to hear this instrument.


----------



## Cedar Eater

Since I decided that milling my own would be an acceptable way of getting deck boards for the hay wagon, I decided to put some effort into making the production of 30+ deck boards go smoothly. I had some leftover 2" X 8" black oak, so I made a log end cradle with it. I might set it up on some 4x4 sleepers to save on my back a little but this thing is solid and heavy.




I think I will like working on this trailer. I set the log into the cradle with my tractor bucket and rolled the ends until it felt really stable. Then I rinsed it and set up for the first cut.




I was able to make the first cut before the weather shut me down for the day.


----------



## bobbobbobbob

This is a set of garden furniture that I recently built from Irish Oak


----------



## Fallguy1960

Here 2 garden benches I have made from a Slippery Elm Log I cut several years ago.


----------



## Czech_Made

Oak planter for the little woman. Now she wants one more and one double wide.


----------



## Cedar Eater

Czech_Made said:


> Oak planter for the little woman. Now she wants one more and one double wide.



It never ends.


----------



## Cedar Eater

The haywagon is finished. The substructure is all CSM red oak on a steel frame and the deck is all CSM poplar. The fence on the back is reused from the old bed that heated my home for about three weeks in December.


----------



## abbott295

It sounds like that old bed kept you warm for a while. I've managed to get heated up in bed too, but to keep it up for three weeks? Over dose of viagra?


----------



## Big Block

Shawn Curry said:


> English Walnut - made these for my mom for Mothers Day.
> 
> View attachment 502328
> View attachment 502330





SawmillMan said:


> Finally finished the walnut cabinets and have been watching my son build another guitar.View attachment 503103
> View attachment 503104
> View attachment 503105
> 
> Mother of burl inlay around the rosette made from black walnut. Anxious to hear this instrument.



Wow guys !!! Nice work


----------



## Greenland South

Built this bench from plan I got from Fine Woodworking. I didn't mill up the cedar. A buddy of mine had it milled from a bunch of downed trees on some property he owns on Vancouver Island. He dropped off a bunch of rough cut lumber and asked if I would build him a memorial bench for a member of his family. Happy to oblige.


----------



## bobbobbobbob

Looks well! What are you finishing it with?


----------



## Greenland South

bobbobbobbob said:


> Looks well! What are you finishing it with?


No finish, it will be allowed to age gracefully.


----------



## bobbobbobbob

Shame I can't say I'm a fan of the grey - silver aging look but then if we all did it the same way that would be just as bad. Love the shape of the back.


----------



## rarefish383

Had a nice old two drawer filing cabinet I just didn't want to throw away. Decided I could put some of my bigger tools in it. Keep them out of the way and clean. Then I got the idea to put my Dewalt tools in them. Got a piece of sap wood from the Dawn Redwood I milled a couple months ago. Couldn't believe how light it had gotten. Cut it down to fit in the drawer. Ran it through the Rigid 13" planer, then the Jet 16-32 sander, dropped it in the drawer, and put a couple coats of Min Wax wipe on Poly. Grabbed two old Dewalt batteries, took them apart, took the batteries out, and drilled a hole in the bottom. Put some liquid nails on the bottom of the batteries and screwed them to the board. Then I screwed the top of the battery back on. Took the clips that hold the tool to battery out while they were apart. Now I just slide the tools on the battery cases like a stand. Turned out OK, I'm happy, Joe.


----------



## scheffa

Made this table from a piece of fiddleback redgum I milled



Made this chopping board from a small off cut of yellow box I milled, then engraved the logo


----------



## DTrap

The table and cutting board are both really nice looking. Excellent looking work.


----------



## bobbobbobbob

That's a fine looking table. 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## 295 tramp

Working on the wife's birthday gift.
This is a 1 1/2 inch slab of red oak I milled last year.
work still in progress.


----------



## kimosawboy

295tramp
Thats some nice work...did you burn first then plane????


----------



## 295 tramp

Thanks
I'm using a router then I spray paint it black then sand what's not cut out


----------



## 295 tramp

That slab will hang underneath the cedar lodge pole that I built.
We bought my wife's parents place that lived there since 53
So I decided to put there name on it because everybody knew they lived all those years there.


----------



## DTrap

Looks great. Gonna be a nice present for sure. Make sure to post a pic of it once it's all set up.


----------



## scheffa

Sambar stag I engraved in old piece of yellow box my father milled many years ago


----------



## scheffa

A pair of bench seats I made for a friend


----------



## 295 tramp

That's Beautiful Scheffa what species of wood are the benches are made from?


----------



## scheffa

295 tramp said:


> That's Beautiful Scheffa what species of wood are the benches are made from?



Made from redgum slabs, it was a hazard tree we removed for the local shire


----------



## 009L

scheffa said:


> Made from redgum slabs, it was a hazard tree we removed for the local shire



Wow, I never knew red gum looked so good!

What did you use to seal the wood on that bench?

Thanks!


----------



## DTrap

The bench is gorgeous. Outstanding work.


----------



## 295 tramp

Man this stuff is addicting.


----------



## scheffa

009L said:


> Wow, I never knew red gum looked so good!
> 
> What did you use to seal the wood on that bench?
> 
> Thanks!


That looks awesome mate.


295 tramp said:


> Man this stuff is addicting.
> View attachment 516520
> View attachment 516521
> View attachment 516522



Just an outdoor furniture oil, the timber was still quite green, however they needed them for an even


----------



## scheffa

How do I attach a video


----------



## 295 tramp

you have to upload it to youtube first ,then when you post it on here just post the link.


----------



## scheffa

Did this over the weekend


----------



## KiwiBro

Like thunderstruck industries? What volts and amps did you hit it with?


----------



## scheffa

KiwiBro said:


> Like thunderstruck industries? What volts and amps did you hit it with?



Yeah similar to them I think, when I spoke with them they didn't give any details on how they did it. 

Pretty sure it's around 11000 volts but I'm not sure


----------



## DTrap

That's pretty cool. What's a finished product look like.


----------



## scheffa

Filled with photo luminescent resin


----------



## DTrap

I like it. Neat work.


----------



## rarefish383

My neighbor asked if I had a board to make a little bench to go between two trees? Me, boards? Nah. A couple hours later, here's what we wound up with, Joe.


----------



## 295 tramp

Is that pine or cedar?
Nice plainer how wide does it do?


----------



## 295 tramp

I have one side complete and the hangers mocked up.
I'm using gate hinges. Now I working on the other side.



.


----------



## rarefish383

295 tramp said:


> Is that pine or cedar?
> Nice plainer how wide does it do?


It's Dawn Redwood. Was a popular ornamental on the East Coast. The sander is a Jet 16-32, can go 32" max, Joe.


----------



## 295 tramp

I finished the back side finally and have one coat of poly applied.


----------



## Shifty540

Loving the signs, 295! Some very impressive work!


----------



## DTrap

Looks great. Excellent work.


----------



## 295 tramp

Thanks for all the likes. I went through 3 router bits on this project.
Hey Scheffa is that a neon ballast that you guys are using to burn those patterns?
I seen that years ago It looks cool as heck watching electricity travel across the wood.


----------



## scheffa

bitzer said:


> Still too much of a ***** to try it for yourself huh? It's amazing you even run a chainsaw. That's gotta be on the threshold of danger for you.





295 tramp said:


> Thanks for all the likes. I went through 3 router bits on this project.
> Hey Scheffa is that a neon ballast that you guys are using to burn those patterns?
> I seen that years ago It looks cool as heck watching electricity travel across the wood.



I used a transformer from a microwave, incredibly easy to do


----------



## 295 tramp

Finally finished.
Cedar poles 10 ft tall X 8 ft wide
Buried 4 ft 
The chainsaw milled board is red oak 1 1/2"
Several coats of oil based poly.


----------



## DTrap

Looks great 295 tramp. Very nice work.


----------



## rarefish383

Looks good, should put a smile on the family's faces, Joe.


----------



## KiwiBro

Drop:




Mill:




Machine:




Test:


----------



## 295 tramp

Nice work, good looking boards


----------



## Cease232

Here's a table I just finished. The lighting is terrible. Looks much better in person. Customer wanted it rustic so I left all the saw marks and cleaned it up with a brush sander. It's very smooth to the touch. 














This was a big Doug fir that fell in a storm. I split it in half with my CSM and then squared it up on my BSM. After drying, back on the BSM to mill the parts. The legs are made with massive through tenons pegged with 1" pegs. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DTrap

Looks really great. I'm hoping to make one similar to that before the end of the year.


----------



## bobbobbobbob

Lovely work particularly like the detailing. 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## KiwiBro

Cease232 said:


>



Looks great. Can you please describe this joint for me? I'm not sure if those are dowels, screw caps/plugs, or something else. Maybe it's the camera angle but it appears they are too close to the top and bottom faces of the seat's cross-member/brace/rail/whatever the correct terminology is, to be dowels?


----------



## KiwiBro

bobbobbobbob said:


> Lovely work particularly like the detailing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


Agreed. Also, if that is the customers place and some of the photos are of it in situ, it sits very well in the context of the floor and strikes a nice balance with the light. That floor and dark stained furniture can often close a room down and suck too much light but it looks like that's not an issue and is a actually a really nice fit.


----------



## Cease232

KiwiBro said:


> Looks great. Can you please describe this joint for me? I'm not sure if those are dowels, screw caps/plugs, or something else. Maybe it's the camera angle but it appears they are too close to the top and bottom faces of the seat's cross-member/brace/rail/whatever the correct terminology is, to be dowels?



The bench was an afterthought by the customer after the table was nearly completed. I made it happen with the cut offs remaining from milling the table. The joint your seeing is lag bolts with a dowel as a plug/cap. The photos a little deceiving regarding the location of the lag screw. There's plenty of wood there for the lag. Had to leave enough to ensure the lower stretcher didn't split out. 
The table is made with true peg joinery. The tenon extends all the way through the leg and it's only secured with dowels and some glue. 
Overall I'm happy with the table and do fell it looks good in the space. The lighting just makes it look a little darker than it actually is. I documented each step of the build with pics if it'll help answer any other questions. Although I've been woodworking a long time this was a learning process as I've never left anything rough sawn or with such massive joinery.


----------



## KiwiBro

Thanks. Precision joints with rough sawn stock is my kind of hair-pulling exercise. Would certainly be a challenge trying not to destroy the look by giving in to the urge to dress everything before marking out the joints or using jigs.


----------



## Cease232

Jigs were definitely my friend on this one. None of the cants were perfectly square, in fact some were very out of square. As long as the faces are flat and I referenced off the same faces every time the joints turned out great. 




Here's the simple jig I made for cutting the through mortises. 







Fit test. 
Pretty good considering those tenons are 3" square and the mortise is 7" deep. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Revturbo977

some of you guys are beyond talented. beautiful work


----------



## Cease232

Just finished this cabinet for my wife's birthday with some black walnut, Homemade hardware, hand cut dovetails, ebony drawer pulls. 












Drawer fronts were cut from one piece for grain matching. 
Jeremiah.


----------



## rarefish383

Very nice! How tall is it? Was having a little trouble putting it in perspective. You did a great job matching the grain, Joe.


----------



## Cease232

rarefish383 said:


> Very nice! How tall is it? Was having a little trouble putting it in perspective. You did a great job matching the grain, Joe.



Thanks, it's 38.5 tall, 32" wide (not including the crown). 
Jeremiah


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BobL

Back in 2008 I milled this log





Last week I gave one of the slabs to my BIL (of BIL mill fame) and he and his son in law tuned it into a top for an outdoor table.


----------



## Czech_Made

That is pure wood p o r n, Bob!


----------



## BigOakAdot

Got my first ever customer/commissioned project. A friend of a friend wanted a coffee table made and he chose the slab from pics of a cherry tree I milled 2 years ago. 

Member htetreau welded me some custom steel legs again and they turned out great. If anyone lives near the Philadelphia area I would highly recommend him if you're in need of any metal work. 

BOA


----------



## BobL

BIL just sent me a couple more picks of that slab

Here is what it looked like of the pack of slabs - underside view



Back edge trimmed and part sanded



Top view Edges rounded and trimmed to fit into spot


----------



## BigOakAdot

Is that walnut?


----------



## BobL

BigOakAdot said:


> Is that walnut?


Nope - its a very common Eucalypt called Spotted gum. 
It's about 2.5x harder than Walnut so its not that easy to work but because of this and often interlocking grain it is not often used for furniture but for construction lumber.
Usually it's much lighter = something like this colour


The big slab was from a tree that was in a park which might have something to do with the darker colour.
Spotted Gum is native to east coast Oz where it grows tall and straight but I've seen loads of it growing in stunted/twisted forms in southern CA and other parts of the world. 
South west Australia where I live is considered an international Biodiversity hotspot and Spotted Gun is considered a bit of a weed displacing local native trees.


----------



## BigOakAdot

It really does have a similar grain pattern to walnut but is definitely a little lighter in color. Regardless it
Looks amazing and thanks for the info.


----------



## BobL

Here is a couple of shots of that BBQ bench in its finished position.
BIL is an ally welder so he made the brackets from rolled RHS Al tube and welded the ends closed.
Paint is the same as that used for the brick walls around his courtyard.


----------



## Shawn Curry

Here's my latest project - a pair of restaurant booths for a local bar. The customers stopped by yesterday to see it and they were thrilled. Lumber is red maple, sawn from my own trees of course.


----------



## Shawn Curry




----------



## lone wolf

Shawn Curry said:


> View attachment 530006
> View attachment 530007
> View attachment 530008
> View attachment 530009


Very cool indeed!


----------



## 295 tramp

Magnificent Shawn
Is the tops one piece?
Great work there
Always a great feeling to see your work in public.


----------



## Shawn Curry

295 tramp said:


> Magnificent Shawn
> Is the tops one piece?
> Great work there
> Always a great feeling to see your work in public.



Thanks! The table tops are made from 2 book matched slabs each. It's 4 sequential slices from the same log. 2 more slices from the outside of that log became bench seats. The table legs and feet are quartersawn 4x4 stock, all sawn from another single log.

Here's another pic that shows off the curly figure a little better:


----------



## DTrap

Those tables and benches are gorgeous. Excellent work sir.


----------



## KiwiBro

Nice set Shawn. Can I ask how the backs are attached to their supports? I see the dowels but no mortices in the exposed support so am not sure how those bits come together but am keen to learn. Always keen to learn. Thanks for posting the pics. Would be great to see them in-situ if you get the chance for another pic at a later date.

*ETA, after a bad run of heavily used pipe clamps, I gave up on them in favour of sash clamps. Not as quick to set-up but they don't slip like all my beyond-their-use-by-date pipe clamps used to.


----------



## Shawn Curry

Thanks! All of the slabs get screwed to these cleats; which have slotted holes to allow for seasonal movement. And then the dowels connect them to the frame. They can be removed, so the benches can be knocked down to 2 slabs and the frame. The table can also be knocked down to the top, stretcher, and 2 leg assemblies.


----------



## Shawn Curry

Regarding the pipe clamps, I agree they're not the best and I usually only use them as a last resort. But it took every single clamp I own assembling those bench frames. I should have used cauls with them too cause the one frame got a little dented. 

But they work great for my sliding table bandsaw jig:


----------



## BobL

Great design on those tables and chairs - very impressive!


----------



## pa.hunter

here you go


----------



## 295 tramp

nice looking mill


----------



## Shawn Curry

I made these yesterday. Ash and Walnut. I'm keeping one for myself and giving the other one to the customers for the restaurant booths.


----------



## IyaMan

Shawn Curry said:


> I made these yesterday. Ash and Walnut. I'm keeping one for myself and giving the other one to the customers for the restaurant booths.



Look nice, but are these mallets for bludgeoning a bad waitress or something?


----------



## Shawn Curry

IyaMan said:


> Look nice, but are these mallets for bludgeoning a bad waitress or something?



Haha no - vandal patrons...  

Actually the intended purpose is for the knockdown joinery - all the slabs can come off and the tables can come apart by knocking out a few pins and wedges. 

Now what they do with it...


----------



## Wiersy111

Been busy making lumber for different projects since I started milling last year. This spring I made a bridge for atv's and utv's to cross a real nasty hole in the trail.





My son after having a little to much the night before


----------



## Wiersy111

Now I have finished my new deer stand. I spent a grand total of $65.


----------



## IyaMan

Wiersy111 said:


> Now I have finished my new deer stand. I spent a grand total of $65.



Nice deer stand. What kind of wood?

Also, can't tell from the pics, but to prevent rot, the legs shouldn't be resting directly on the ground. A concrete block or even a broad stone will help immensely. Should be at least 3 or 4 inches above the dirt. Also, that'll help disperse the weight so it doesn't sink in much. And painting on some coal tar or other sealant onto the bottom foot or two of the leg wood will also be good, especially since the legs flair out beyond the roof line (particularly the back side where the rain run-off from the roof will fall. Though a gutter would be better maybe since this is where your door/ladder is).

Would be cool to see an interior pic too if you got any.


----------



## Wiersy111

IyaMan said:


> Nice deer stand. What kind of wood?
> 
> Also, can't tell from the pics, but to prevent rot, the legs shouldn't be resting directly on the ground. A concrete block or even a broad stone will help immensely. Should be at least 3 or 4 inches above the dirt. Also, that'll help disperse the weight so it doesn't sink in much. And painting on some coal tar or other sealant onto the bottom foot or two of the leg wood will also be good, especially since the legs flair out beyond the roof line (particularly the back side where the rain run-off from the roof will fall. Though a gutter would be better maybe since this is where your door/ladder is).
> 
> Would be cool to see an interior pic too if you got any.



The framing is a large spruce that I milled late last winter. The legs are Red Oak The board and Baton siding is Basswood. The Basswood is an experiment to see how durable it will be in the elements. I am going to leave everything weather over the winter before I seal it all up, in the spring I will stain/ seal the whole works. For this fall all I plan on doing is going out tomorrow and leveling the stand by putting patio blocks under the legs. I have drip edges over all the windows and the door. I plan on putting tar on the bottom of the legs but it is to close to season right now. All of the materials for this stand were either cut by myself or scraps laying around from other projects. If I remember I will take some pics from the inside.


----------



## IyaMan

Yes, avoid putting on tar for now if you plan on hunting with it. Coal tar stinks for days or even weeks and will certainly not be attracting deer. Having oak legs exposed to weather for one winter won't have a negative effect, and putting in the blocks will be a help.

Instead of staining next spring, how about painting it camo?


----------



## Wiersy111

IyaMan said:


> Yes, avoid putting on tar for now if you plan on hunting with it. Coal tar stinks for days or even weeks and will certainly not be attracting deer. Having oak legs exposed to weather for one winter won't have a negative effect, and putting in the blocks will be a help.
> 
> Instead of staining next spring, how about painting it camo?



I am hoping I can just a natural grey coloring to it and that will blend nicely into the area.


----------



## pond hopper

New foot bridge to the basement. Red oak 6x6 with 2x treads


----------



## lumberjackchef

Couple of my latest






Cedar with turquoise inlays





Pine slab sign




red oak slab sign

Sent from my N9516 using Tapatalk


----------



## bobbobbobbob

These are a pair of hand shaped Irish Oak stools that I made for a client.


----------



## Wiersy111

Here is my latest project. It's a live edge oak mantle for a close friend of mine as a wedding gift. It is cut out of a tree from his backyard that we got a little crazy one day and shot up with the big pistols. The smallest pistol was a .44 mag, then there was the .50 AE, 450 Marlin and 45-70 Govt. There was plenty of lead in the log, I was very apprehensive about milling it at first but figured I would give it a try. I was pleasantly surprised that it milled very well.

The fireplace is already finished with faux river rock so I am still figuring out how I am going to mount this heavy mantle. Right now I plan on mounting a ledger board to the fireplace and hollowing out the inside of the mantle and scribing the mantle to the rocks. Once it is complete it should look very cool just floating on the wall. The scribing is going to be a lot of time consuming work but I don't know how else to make it look good. If anyone has better ideas please let me know I am always open to suggestions, especially if it is less work!.


----------



## rarefish383

A friend had a two story staircase on an interior stone wall. It was all hand fit to the stone. Took the carpenter forever and a day, but it did look good, Joe.


----------



## abbott295

I work for a home builder; we don't normally do things like this, but we recently ( maybe about a year ago) attached a barn beam for a mantlepiece for a buyer by using long screws angled into the studs in the wall behind, counter-sunk and wood-filled. Pre-drilling the beam, of course. I can't find a picture and I don't remember if it was on brick or stacked stone. Does your faux river rock afford any weight-bearing capability? Level off the top surface, where the mantle will sit, with mortar; that could carry most of the weight. 

If the faux river rock can't carry the weight, maybe an angle iron screwed into the wall to carry the mantle, then you mortise out for the angle iron so the mantle sits flush to the wall and down over the angle iron. Angle iron shorter than the mantle so the ends aren't exposed either. A 3 x 3 angle like our stone masons use for lintels. Well I see I typed "into the wall" where I meant "onto the wall", but if you remove sheetrock to attach the angle iron, you will be able to see your studs to screw them good and only need to mortise for the horizontal projection of the angle iron under the bottom of the mantle. That may be even easier. 

Good luck. I am sure your mantle weighs more than that barn beam did. 

abbott295


----------



## Wiersy111

As far as I can tell the is all block behind the faux stone so I am planning on using some kind of anchor bolts into the cement block.


----------



## abbott295

Hmmm, Toggle bolts would hold the angle iron on, but I don't know about the rest of the installation. I would like to see the final solution to this. 

Do you have enough of that log, or another, to make corbels that could be toggle bolted into the block to put the mantle on top of?


----------



## Wiersy111

I have plenty of log left over, I could make another mantle if I wanted. Having two pieces of end grain coming out of the wall was the other idea that I am working with.


----------



## Czech_Made

Fence


----------



## jrhannum

Here's my latest; home-harvested and CSM-slabbed Claro walnut dried three years; planed using bridged router then 
corrected small faults with epoxy resin then many sandings and finished with Minwax Helmsman spray-on; goes in my daughter's new back-patio (down by the creek).


----------



## swanny

2 cord firewood shed. Oak base (gets concrete blocks under corners) with rest tulip poplar. Old galvanized roofing. 4 hrs to mill, 6 to build. may treat with drain oil/diesel mix after dried.


----------



## KiwiBro

Wiersy111 said:


> I have plenty of log left over, I could make another mantle if I wanted. Having two pieces of end grain coming out of the wall was the other idea that I am working with.


Can you drill holes, set threaded rod/bolts in exactly perpendicular to wall and they support the mantel like hidden dowels.


----------



## Wiersy111

I hollowed out the inside of the mantle and have a 4x4 that will be bolted to the wall with a 2x4 that will go on the front of the 4x4. the 2x4 will be able to be planed down to match the inside depth after I get done scribing the mantel to the rocks. Once everything is fitted I will either put a couple of one inch dowel pins through top to bottom or bolt through to the 4x4 and plug the holes to look like pins.


----------



## backwoodsman42

A shoe rack/bench made out of yellow poplar I milled from a neighbors front yard. It's my wifes Christmas present


----------



## DTrap

Very nice work on the bench/shoe rack. It look great.


----------



## backwoodsman42

Thank you. This Bench is my first attempt at finished furniture.


----------



## rarefish383

I like Poplar, it can have some very nice color to it. Very nice work, like the shoe rack, Joe.


----------



## steve easy

Put up a t/f I have been hacking away at for awhile now.


----------



## JTM

Father in law built this table for my daughter. It's pine I had milled from trees blown down at the house.


----------



## scheffa

Full size axe I made from milled redgum and yellow box, crappy photo but all I have for now


----------



## BigOakAdot

Some end grain cutting boards and a cheese board I made for Xmas presents. This is right after the first coat of tung oil. 

I ripped down some walnut and cherry that I had milled my very first time milling. I should have planed one side before running them through the table saw but it still worked out. The squares aren't perfect because of that reason but I'm happy for my first time making these.


----------



## rarefish383

Got board the other day and made some live edge Blue Spruce side boards for my garden trailer. Still have to trim the standards to the top of the boards, Joe.


----------



## Czech_Made

Did I post my fence yet? Using white pine I rip on the sawmill.


----------



## BigOakAdot

Had a friend of a friend who wanted a slab piece for behind their sectional. I really like the way it ended up turning out. This is a 9' cherry slab finished with this fancy stuff called Rubio monocoat. It's a pure oil that only requires one coat. It's expensive but saves time and looks great. The smell is very pleasing compared to others finishes as well. 

Shout out to member htetreau for welding me up those steel legs.


----------



## rarefish383

Very nice. Thanks for the tip on Rubio's, think I'll give it a go, Joe.


----------



## JTM

My first CSM project for the daughter and son in law. I just finished putting the legs on.


----------



## ticolawnllc

[QUOTE="BigOakAdot, 

Had a friend of a friend who wanted a slab piece for behind their sectional. I really like the way it ended up turning out. This is a 9' cherry slab finished with this fancy stuff called Rubio monocoat. It's a pure oil that only requires one coat. It's expensive but saves time and looks great. The smell is very pleasing compared to others finishes as well.

Shout out to member htetreau for welding me up those steel legs.[/QUOTE]
What's the deal with the fence. I'm looking to use some pine and spruce wood for that kind of use.


----------



## Cabin by the Creek




----------



## Cabin by the Creek




----------



## Cabin by the Creek




----------



## Cabin by the Creek




----------



## Cabin by the Creek




----------



## Cabin by the Creek




----------



## JTM

I've been looking for those old sewing machine bases to use.


----------



## Johnnybar

Are most of you fellas using a heat cycle on the lumber and slabs before the projects begin or are there other options these days? I saw one guy use a salt/boric acid mixture rolled on the wet slabs but, I'm not sure if that replaces the heat cycle.


----------



## grizz55chev

All chainsaw milled wood. The beams are red fir, the deck and seats are cedar, the steps are black oak.


----------



## rarefish383

This week end was spring cleaning day, raking sticks, leaves, fire pit going. I got bored with no place to sit and drink a cold beer, so I made a new bench, Joe.


----------



## rarefish383

In the second pic you can see some of the fire wood stacked up. I had 3 cord stacked on the court in front of my house, and had to move it down by the fire pit out of sight. Look what I found on one piece of wood, Joe.


----------



## agrams

I milled a southern sugar maple a year or so ago, was so happy with the character in the slabs that I dug out some pieces from the firewood pile that were small trimmings from the tree, cut them in to sheets for veneers, and made a humidor trimmed in ebony from it:


----------



## rarefish383

Wow, that is really nice, Joe.


----------



## KiwiBro

Beautiful. Lots of work in that small box but a lovely piece, well crafted. Thanks for sharing.

Those are interesting, neat wee box hinges. I've not seen them before but need a dozen or so for upcoming projects. They look like some sort of quadrant box hinge. Do you have more details or images please? Thanks.


----------



## agrams

the hinges are side rail hinges. I order them from woodcrart. Here is the link. The only option for solid brass ones used to be brusso, but those were $35 a pop. The highpoint are just as good and cheaper. I do replace the solid brass screws with brass plated steel screws as the brass screws are so weak they break all the time.

Here is a table from the slabs in the tree. The slabs had more curl and less spalting, but still some crazy grain:


----------



## KiwiBro

TKs for that info. Lovely table too.


----------



## Old Blue

That's a beautiful display of grain ! !
What kind of finish is that on your table?

Old Blue


----------



## Franny K

It is really just to show the gypsy moth situation on June 1 2017. I know it was bad back around 1973, will have to wait until the turds are bigger to assess if it is worse now or then. I chose to use pressure treated for the four legs even though they are not ground contact rated. I also chose 6 feet long for weight considerations.


----------



## steve easy

milled this matai for a cocky, makes me laugh there was talk of cutting it for f/w cause it didn't look like much. So it was decided to make some benches and big table etc for outdoor use. Well I got call after I made the first bench, he'd fallen for the timber far to nice for outdoor use. Going to be a bookshelf and some cabinets for inside now. Saved another log from the f/w pile.


----------



## Runknpap




----------



## Dustan250

12x40 lean to for wood pellet storage and other junk. The MS 250 is getting tired.


----------



## earlthegoat2

Window trim for the shop. Cut and milled in the days following Matthew.


----------



## earlthegoat2

Here is an addition I put onto the back of my garage. All the posts and headers are chainsaw milled. I had to buy the rafters.


----------



## Czech_Made

earlthegoat2 said:


> Window trim for the shop. Cut and milled in the days following Matthew.


Nice lines on the trim.


----------



## Brian72

First project with my new chainsaw mill.









Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bmac

Made from cherry I milled. 
At least this is one Christmas present I don't need to buy at the shopping mall. 
I see making more of these in my future.


----------



## Brian72

Bmac said:


> Made from cherry I milled.
> At least this is one Christmas present I don't need to buy at the shopping mall.
> I see making more of these in my future.
> 
> 
> View attachment 616489
> View attachment 616490
> View attachment 616491
> View attachment 616492


Beautiful!!

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


----------



## Stihl 041S

Bmac said:


> Made from cherry I milled.
> At least this is one Christmas present I don't need to buy at the shopping mall.
> I see making more of these in my future.
> 
> 
> View attachment 616489
> View attachment 616490
> View attachment 616491
> View attachment 616492


You are an artist.....


----------



## Brian72

So many great builds and projects in this thread. Thanks all for sharing.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


----------



## Czech_Made

Amazing


----------



## KiwiBro

Bmac said:


> Made from cherry I milled.
> At least this is one Christmas present I don't need to buy at the shopping mall.
> I see making more of these in my future.
> 
> 
> View attachment 616489
> View attachment 616490
> View attachment 616491
> View attachment 616492


Lovely work. Any chance of some close ups of the joints please?


----------



## Bmac

KiwiBro said:


> Lovely work. Any chance of some close ups of the joints please?



Absolutely, here is the info on the joints and some close ups of the joints.

This being a Maloof Rocker, I used all the traditional joints he used in building his. I got patterns for this project from Charles Brock.

Headrest to back supports/legs are a butt joint, epoxy and 3 screws, Arms to back support/legs is butt joint, epoxy and 1 screw. Arms to front legs is butt joint with 1/2" dowel. Legs to rockers are butt joint and 1/2" dowel.
The real cool joints are the joints for the leg to the seat, these are the joints I took pictures of. This joint is Maloof's classic joint he used for chairs, it hard to explain, but easy to look up on the internet. In the 3rd photo you will see 2 plugs, those cover screws used to help add extra support to the leg seat joint.

Construction of this chair is rather time consuming but well worth it in my opinion. It took hours to shape, carve, sand, and detail all the parts to this chair.


----------



## KiwiBro

Super joints. Thank you for sharing. So much time and care goes into something like that. Beautiful.


----------



## rarefish383

Brian, where abouts in PA are you? If I asked this before, I'm getting old, and forgot. I'm just outside Frederick, MD, Joe.


----------



## Brian72

rarefish383 said:


> Brian, where abouts in PA are you? If I asked this before, I'm getting old, and forgot. I'm just outside Frederick, MD, Joe.


Berwick

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


----------



## Brian72

rarefish383 said:


> Brian, where abouts in PA are you? If I asked this before, I'm getting old, and forgot. I'm just outside Frederick, MD, Joe.


I believe we spoke before about me getting some walnut from you. 

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


----------



## rarefish383

Yep, I remember, those logs are still on Doc's burn pile. I'll be going over there next week with my splitter to load up on firewood. Maybe I'll pull them out while I have the trailer there, Joe.


----------



## Brian72

rarefish383 said:


> Yep, I remember, those logs are still on Doc's burn pile. I'll be going over there next week with my splitter to load up on firewood. Maybe I'll pull them out while I have the trailer there, Joe.


Seems like I never have enough time to get anything done anymore. Haven't done any milling since early spring. Still buying saws but no time to use them! Lol

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


----------



## Jon_G_Houston

Stony- nice work. That wood and table look excellent!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## KiwiBro

Brian72 said:


> Seems like I never have enough time to get anything done anymore. Haven't done any milling since early spring. Still buying saws but no time to use them! Lol
> 
> Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


Bought a Leigh dovetail jig 6 months ago. Haven't touched it yet. The projects needing dovetails keep stacking up and will have to wait at least another 6 months. 
Time keeps on slipping, slip'n, slip'n into the future.


----------



## Sawyer Rob

KiwiBro said:


> Bought a Leigh dovetail jig 6 months ago. Haven't touched it yet. The projects needing dovetails keep stacking up and will have to wait at least another 6 months.
> Time keeps on slipping, slip'n, slip'n into the future.


 I bought one many years ago, I found it quite complicated to use and haven't touched it in years.

It did turn out nice joints when I did use it, but I sure hated the set up time and went back to a different jig that I also have...

SR


----------



## Brian72

Sawyer Rob said:


> I bought one many years ago, I found it quite complicated to use and haven't touched it in years.
> 
> It did turn out nice joints when I did use it, but I sure hated the set up time and went back to a different jig that I also have...
> 
> SR


We're probably all in the same boat. Plenty of tools and ideas but never get much accomplished. Still doesn't stop me from getting more tools though.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


----------



## Sawyer Rob

I owned/ran a cabinet shop for MANY years, now in retirement I find myself picking easier and easier things to build!

That's just the opposite of what I "thought" would happen...

SR


----------



## KiwiBro

Sawyer Rob said:


> I bought one many years ago, I found it quite complicated to use and haven't touched it in years.
> 
> It did turn out nice joints when I did use it, but I sure hated the set up time and went back to a different jig that I also have...
> 
> SR


It seems very granular. Very flexible. The other one I have is a set size for half blind dovetails only. That gets old pretty quick, even if it is a fast way to mow through 'em. One wet Winter and I'll know for sure.


----------



## BigOakAdot

Got a couple Xmas coffee tables out this year. Well one was a gift another one I sold to a friend. No special woodworking here just a ton of router sledding and lots and lots of sanding. 

My friend is a manager at sherwin Williams and they carry festool now. I got to use the ro 90 sander. It's a relatively small head but boy does that thing crank. It was tough to control on rotary mode while sanding end grain with 40 grit paper. Definitely got those router marks off faster than my dewalt palm sander. 

I know they're so expensive but I'm tempted to drop the money and get the ro 150. 6" head and that way I can buff off my finishes instead of wiping it off with towels. Get a more professional look and save boat loads of time on sanding. I basically only make slab furniture and can't imagine ever needing a high end festool other than their sander. 

Anyone here use festool stuff at all?

The table with the embedded river rocks was for the customer. Wasn't too excited about it but now that it's done I do enjoy the look. Thought it may take away from the natural beauty of that beast cherry slab but I'm happy with it. Plus that's what they wanted and were paying for so I can't complain. 

The other one is just filled with epoxy. Pics were taken on my old crappy iPhone and not much natural light hence why it doesn't pop like the other table. His house has some serious natural light and really looks nice. I expect these to really darken up. Hope you guys like it!

Andrew


----------



## Bmac

Andrew

Very nice look to those tables. Must be a ton of work to flatten and smooth all that end grain. Also a ton of epoxy. Which epoxy do you use?

I use the Festool ROTEX 125 sander, love it. Very aggressive. Was thinking of getting the smaller head RO 90 for tighter spaces but can't justify the expense. I also use the festool RAS 115.04 instead of an angle grinder for shaping. That is very aggressive. Dust collection with festool sanders is also off the charts, this feature alone is worth the increased cost.

I have a few other festool tools, but the sanders are the best ones I own, and I think the best sanders on the market. The festool I want right now is the domino, expensive but from all I've read it's a game changer for furniture.

Finally, I assume those end tables are made from oak? Red or White?


----------



## BigOakAdot

Bmac said:


> Andrew
> 
> Very nice look to those tables. Must be a ton of work to flatten and smooth all that end grain. Also a ton of epoxy. Which epoxy do you use?
> 
> I use the Festool ROTEX 125 sander, love it. Very aggressive. Was thinking of getting the smaller head RO 90 for tighter spaces but can't justify the expense. I also use the festool RAS 115.04 instead of an angle grinder for shaping. That is very aggressive. Dust collection with festool sanders is also off the charts, this feature alone is worth the increased cost.
> 
> I have a few other festool tools, but the sanders are the best ones I own, and I think the best sanders on the market. The festool I want right now is the domino, expensive but from all I've read it's a game changer for furniture.
> 
> Finally, I assume those end tables are made from oak? Red or White?



If you're referring to the above two coffee tables they are both cherry believe it or not. It was when I first got my grandberg mill, and I found a guy locally who saw the potential in such a large cherry tree that was in decline. 

It was codominant so I decided to just free hand the 5' or so that was one solid trunk and got 3 beautiful cookies out of it. Had some ant rot where each leader grew from hence the rock areas and epoxy in the other table you see above. 

It took me so long to sand the marks from the router sled. I forgot what a pain in the ass it is to sand end grain. 

As for epoxy I used "us composites" table top epoxy 1:1 ratio. It actually went bad halfway through pouring those voids (it was relatively old and the resin became gritty). I was in a panic because it needed to be done for a party last Saturday and I was crunched for time. Amazon came to the rescue and had "pro marine supplies" epoxy that arrived in less than 24 hours even during Christmas time. It was slightly more expensive but I was in a pinch. 

I would recommend both but as I'm sure a lot of you know by now, always do multiple small pours to eliminate bubbles and heat. I'll be picking up more us composites because like I said it's some of the cheaper stuff I've found on the web. Hope that helps. 

Ps that cherry rocking chair is to die for. I strive to have even some of the woodworking skills that you do bmac.


----------



## KiwiBro

BigOakAdot said:


> Anyone here use festool stuff at all?


Heck no. CAD is bad enough without getting started on Festool woodworking gear. I avoid that stuff like the plague.


----------



## KiwiBro

BigOakAdot said:


> always do multiple small pours to eliminate bubbles and heat.


 Also can pour during falling temps so the wood itself isn't burping, and carry a heat gun or gas/camping burner/torch to pop bubbles as they surface. And let the mixture sit a wee while to help bubbles out of the brew before applying.


----------



## Sawyer Rob

When you mix epoxy, you are suppose to "fold it", NOT whip air into it...

SR


----------



## AaronB

I made this end table out of white oak and walnut that I milled at my Father-in-laws house, gave the table to the in-laws as a present. Basically he got part of his tree back as a table.d


----------



## TOlsen

Nice end table. I love the rays in that quarter sawn oak. Are they just as visible from other angles? When I get them in a pice they seem to come and go depending on light and viewing angle.


----------



## Cease232

AaronB said:


> I made this end table out of white oak and walnut that I milled at my Father-in-laws house, gave the table to the in-laws as a present. Basically he got part of his tree back as a table.d
> 
> View attachment 621546
> View attachment 621547



Nice Greene and Greene!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## twoclones

I'm doing a lot of restoration work on my 1962 Willys pickup truck _(original Tornado engine and drive train)_. When converting to a flatbed I decided to use rough, full dimension sycamore for the bed to give it the look of a sawmill owned truck. Not quite finished with the headache rack area but the flatbed is functional. 

There are 24 d-rings recessed into the floor of the bed for securing my chainsaw carvings and milled slabs. 






Before the sides and tail gate were installed, I was delivering cedar slabs to the hardwood retailer. 





Sides and tailgate fold down and are pulled together tightly with 'draw latches'. No rattling here. 





I'm working on a matching cargo platform for the front of this trailer made from a 1949 Willys pickup truck.


----------



## BigOakAdot

Nice work fellas! I like the rays on that end table as well. That truck is looking bad ass!

And yes good tips above for the epoxy. I use a propane torch and it takes care of all the bubbles. Usually do a very light coat first to seal the wood to prevent bubbles and the lack dye from leaking into the grain.


----------



## Bmac

Here is a new project, these stools are a creation of Charles Brock, he calls them Bowtie Stools. The look is pretty cool and I love the curves in the legs. This one is made out of black walnut I milled, on the floor behind this one you can see a stool I made out of cherry I milled





Here are some close ups of the joints.


----------



## Brian72

Bmac said:


> Here is a new project, these stools are a creation of Charles Brock, he calls them Bowtie Stools. The look is pretty cool and I love the curves in the legs. This one is made out of black walnut I milled, on the floor behind this one you can see a stool I made out of cherry I milled
> 
> View attachment 624555
> View attachment 624556
> 
> 
> Here are some close ups of the joints.
> View attachment 624557
> View attachment 624558
> View attachment 624559


Wow! Those are awesome!

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


----------



## Rosss

BigOakAdot said:


> View attachment 621217
> View attachment 621218
> View attachment 621219
> View attachment 621220
> View attachment 621221
> View attachment 621216
> Got a couple Xmas coffee tables out this year. Well one was a gift another one I sold to a friend. No special woodworking here just a ton of router sledding and lots and lots of sanding.
> 
> My friend is a manager at sherwin Williams and they carry festool now. I got to use the ro 90 sander. It's a relatively small head but boy does that thing crank. It was tough to control on rotary mode while sanding end grain with 40 grit paper. Definitely got those router marks off faster than my dewalt palm sander.
> 
> I know they're so expensive but I'm tempted to drop the money and get the ro 150. 6" head and that way I can buff off my finishes instead of wiping it off with towels. Get a more professional look and save boat loads of time on sanding. I basically only make slab furniture and can't imagine ever needing a high end festool other than their sander.
> 
> Anyone here use festool stuff at all?
> 
> The table with the embedded river rocks was for the customer. Wasn't too excited about it but now that it's done I do enjoy the look. Thought it may take away from the natural beauty of that beast cherry slab but I'm happy with it. Plus that's what they wanted and were paying for so I can't complain.
> 
> The other one is just filled with epoxy. Pics were taken on my old crappy iPhone and not much natural light hence why it doesn't pop like the other table. His house has some serious natural light and really looks nice. I expect these to really darken up. Hope you guys like it!
> 
> Andrew



Wow those are beautiful!! 

How did you dry the cookies? I think they turned out really well.


----------



## Brian72

AaronB said:


> I made this end table out of white oak and walnut that I milled at my Father-in-laws house, gave the table to the in-laws as a present. Basically he got part of his tree back as a table.d
> 
> View attachment 621546
> View attachment 621547


Gorgeous! Love the walnut accent pieces. 

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


----------



## Brian72

Kitchen table built for my son. Walnut and red oak.








Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


----------



## flatbroke

You folks are pretty talented. I can only dream. Also it seems almost every downed tree I come across, (only oak) has termites in it to some degree. How do you deal with that.


----------



## Brian72

flatbroke said:


> You folks are pretty talented. I can only dream. Also it seems almost every downed tree I come across, (only oak) has termites in it to some degree. How do you deal with that.


Just grab some wood and some tools and go to town. A little research can get you plenty of knowledge. I never built a table before. I got the itch and built 2. Took me a while but I got it figured out. As far as bugs, maybe get some advice from a local exterminator. 

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## BigOakAdot

Rosss said:


> Wow those are beautiful!!
> 
> How did you dry the cookies? I think they turned out really well.



Air dried them for 3 + years. I don't own a moisture meter, well one that works right, but if I had to guess they still had some moisture in them. I made my personal coffee table from one of those cookies over a year ago and it held up fine so I figured they were good to go. 

Glad you liked them.


----------



## Czech_Made

twoclones said:


> I'm doing a lot of restoration work on my 1962 Willys pickup truck _(original Tornado engine and drive train)_. When converting to a flatbed I decided to use rough, full dimension sycamore for the bed to give it the look of a sawmill owned truck. Not quite finished with the headache rack area but the flatbed is functional.
> 
> There are 24 d-rings recessed into the floor of the bed for securing my chainsaw carvings and milled slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before the sides and tail gate were installed, I was delivering cedar slabs to the hardwood retailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sides and tailgate fold down and are pulled together tightly with 'draw latches'. No rattling here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm working on a matching cargo platform for the front of this trailer made from a 1949 Willys pickup truck.



Love it, kudos for keeping the old iron on the road, sir.


----------



## MGoodwin

Couple of recent items. Mantle I was commissioned for. Soft maple I cleared off my shop site. The boat is in process (13' grand banks dory), but is birch I milled a few years back. Will be glassing the outside and interior floor. Should be "done" within a couple months. I hope .


----------



## BigOakAdot

Sweet!! Always wanted to make a cedar strip kayak or something like that. Any plans or books you recommend?


----------



## Czech_Made

Love the boat, please keep the pictures coming.


----------



## MGoodwin

The boat plans came from Spira International (great guy to work with). The plans actually show the sides being made from a single sheet (scarfed plywood). Theres a couple ways to do lap strake as I have have it, but I opted to have the internal frame members "stair cased" so the side panels were in full contact (versus a bond line to previous plank, and gap underneath and then touch again along opposite edge). Got a few more planks on the other night, hope to have a couple new pictures soon.


----------



## Czech_Made

I have no plans to build a boat, but could you imagine a body of a sidecar? Like this one.


----------



## BobL

Czech_Made said:


> I have no plans to build a boat, but could you imagine a body of a sidecar? Like this one.


Google image search for Wooden sidecar shows a few (not many) wooden sidecars..


----------



## Marine5068

How about a wooden Jeep?
Not mine, but looks pretty cool.


----------



## earlthegoat2

Steel frame bed with chainsaw milled cherry.

The bedside table on the left in the last picture was also built by me out of band milled cherry. A tornado came through my dads wooded property when I was about 12 years old. We logged out the downed trees and got it milled by a local guy with a Wood Mizer. I built the table when I was 26. Air dried for a long time up in MI.

The split top bench shown in many of the pictures was made out of chainsaw milled pine bottom and salvaged engineered beams for the top.


----------



## Marine5068

earlthegoat2 said:


> Steel frame bed with chainsaw milled cherry.
> 
> The bedside table on the left in the last picture was also built by me out of band milled cherry. A tornado came through my dads wooded property when I was about 12 years old. We logged out the downed trees and got it milled by a local guy with a Wood Mizer. I built the table when I was 26. Air dried for a long time up in MI.
> 
> The split top bench shown in many of the pictures was made out of chainsaw milled pine bottom and salvaged engineered beams for the top.


WOW!!!. That's is awesome!
Great work. Looks fantastic. Like a million bucks.
I may have to steal that idea to make my own for our queen bed.
Is that a double?


----------



## earlthegoat2

Marine5068 said:


> WOW!!!. That's is awesome!
> Great work. Looks fantastic. Like a million bucks.
> I may have to steal that idea to make my own for our queen bed.
> Is that a double?



It’s queen size.


----------



## bayard

very very cool!


----------



## BigOakAdot

Sickkkkk bed my friend.


----------



## MGoodwin

Quick update on the boat. Floor trimmed flush though still need to sand the entire thing and do a couple fairing jobs. After that will pull off stand, flip, and trim off excess panel along top edge. Lots of squeeze out on inside but that goes pretty quick.


----------



## BobL

Small stuff but at least it shows I am VERY slowly using some of the timber I have milled.
I made this for a friends 60th from a Box wood street tree I milled 10 years ago. 
The tree comes the same suburb my friend grew up in back in the 1960's
Handles are turned from the same timber.


----------



## Czech_Made

Very pretty


----------



## Marine5068

BobL said:


> Small stuff but at least it shows I am VERY slowly using some of the timber I have milled.
> I made this for a friends 60th from a Box wood street tree I milled 10 years ago.
> The tree comes the same suburb my friend grew up in back in the 1960's
> Handles are turned from the same timber.
> View attachment 633282
> 
> 
> View attachment 633284


Nice work on the boards.
My Dad had an old English made bread knife that looked like that. I think we used it for over 30 years when Mom used to make home made bread.
I still have a good bunch of English steel knives of theirs. All made in Sheffield, England. Some with Ox bone handles. Great steel and craftsman ship back then.


----------



## BigOakAdot

Finally bit the bullet and picked up the festool ro 150. The thing is an absolute monster and will surely be saving me some serious time on finishes. 

Used it on a small off cut of walnut for a shelf for my wife. Hooked it up to my delta dust collector and is virtually dust free when sanding. Finished this with Rubio monocoat which is expensive but sure brings out the color in this air dried walnut. 

I must have milled it on an angle or the log was curvy because I somehow ended up with the pith centered in the end of the board and pops through on the face as well. Pretty neat.


----------



## Bmac

BigOakAdot said:


> View attachment 633662
> View attachment 633663
> View attachment 633664
> View attachment 633665
> Finally bit the bullet and picked up the festool ro 150. The thing is an absolute monster and will surely be saving me some serious time on finishes.
> 
> Used it on a small off cut of walnut for a shelf for my wife. Hooked it up to my delta dust collector and is virtually dust free when sanding. Finished this with Rubio monocoat which is expensive but sure brings out the color in this air dried walnut.
> 
> I must have milled it on an angle or the log was curvy because I somehow ended up with the pith centered in the end of the board and pops through on the face as well. Pretty neat.




Absolutely gorgeous piece of walnut! Love how some of the darker heartwood color bleeds into to sapwood.

Couple questions;
How thick is that board, 6/4? 
Wondering how you got that color bleeding into the sapwood. Was it because it sat as a log for a year or two before you milled it?

I've had some color bleed into the sapwood on walnut if left in log form a few years.

Those festool sanders with dust collection are awesome. When you put them in aggressive mode they really eat up the wood.


----------



## BigOakAdot

Bmac said:


> Absolutely gorgeous piece of walnut! Love how some of the darker heartwood color bleeds into to sapwood.
> 
> Couple questions;
> How thick is that board, 6/4?
> Wondering how you got that color bleeding into the sapwood. Was it because it sat as a log for a year or two before you milled it?
> 
> I've had some color bleed into the sapwood on walnut if left in log form a few years.
> 
> Those festool sanders with dust collection are awesome. When you put them in aggressive mode they really eat up the wood.


Yes the 150 sure does eat some
Wood up. Love it so far. As for the dyed sap wood, I'm not sure how long that particular log sat. Not super long if I had to guess. 

What I can say is that some cookies I milled and dried in my basement had similar dark spots in the sap wood. In the summer my basement is quite damp even with a big dehumidifier. It caused some fungus to grow on the cookies so I think the coloring is related to something like that. 

That slab was an off cut and actually sat outside in the weather for a month or so before I saw it with some rain on it and had to take it home.


----------



## BobL

Marine5068 said:


> Nice work on the boards.


Thanks - It's just the two sides of the same board .


> My Dad had an old English made bread knife that looked like that. I think we used it for over 30 years when Mom used to make home made bread.
> I still have a good bunch of English steel knives of theirs. All made in Sheffield, England. Some with Ox bone handles. Great steel and craftsman ship back then.


The breadknife is a Sheffield blade supplied by a local woodcraft store.


----------



## hseII

Brian72 said:


> Kitchen table built for my son. Walnut and red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk



Do you have details on this?


----------



## Brian72

hseII said:


> Do you have details on this?


We used black walnut for the top and center support and red oak for the legs. Anything particular you'd like to know? It was a fairly quick and random project but I'll gladly answer anything I can. I may even have some other pics.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## hseII

Brian72 said:


> We used black walnut for the top and center support and red oak for the legs. Anything particular you'd like to know? It was a fairly quick and random project but I'll gladly answer anything I can. I may even have some other pics.
> 
> Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk



Do you have a design?

Thank You.


----------



## Brian72

hseII said:


> Do you have a design?
> 
> Thank You.


I don't have a design but I'll get you some measurements and some better pics. I'm not really skilled so it was just made up as we went along.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## hseII

Thank You.

It’s Beautiful.


----------



## Brian72

hseII said:


> Thank You.
> 
> It’s Beautiful.


Thanks. Sure appreciate the compliment. It was a fun learning experience. May take me a few days to get more pics for you. I got a different phone and need to try to get the pics transferred.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Brian72

Brian72 said:


> Thanks. Sure appreciate the compliment. It was a fun learning experience. May take me a few days to get more pics for you. I got a different phone and need to try to get the pics transferred.
> 
> Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk


I sent you some info in a PM. Let me know if you got it

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## hseII

Brian72 said:


> I sent you some info in a PM. Let me know if you got it
> 
> Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk



I got them.

Thank You.


----------



## Bmac

My wife requested an oval table for the foyer of our house. I was more than happy to produce one for her. 
Finished this table over the weekend. Made from milled wood I had, cherry and maple. The bottom shelf shows off the figured maple nicely.


----------



## KiwiBro

Lovely work, Bmac. If these joint support blocks are laminated, you matched the grain very well.



Did you use a router/spindle moulder and jigs to cut the mortices in the table top?

Lovely timber too. Is that figured maple stable when dry? Any support under it? We don't get much figured maple here. I'd be a bit nervous of the ends of that maple shelf breaking along the grain if it got a knock, if I had used some of the timbers available here.


----------



## Bmac

KiwiBro said:


> Lovely work, Bmac. If these joint support blocks are laminated, you matched the grain very well.
> View attachment 634723
> 
> 
> Did you use a router/spindle moulder and jigs to cut the mortices in the table top?
> 
> Lovely timber too. Is that figured maple stable when dry? Any support under it? We don't get much figured maple here. I'd be a bit nervous of the ends of that maple shelf breaking along the grain if it got a knock, if I had used some of the timbers available here.



Yes, those support blocks are laminated. Got lucky with how well that matched up. That is also why that joint/leg is facing outward.

Joints in the table top started out as a dado, then ran 1/2' router bit into the top and bottom of the dado. Then you cut a dado in the leg to match the tenon you created in the top and round it off with a router bit that matches the curvature left by your first rout bit. I bought these router bits together to make this joint as they compliment one another perfectly. Here's a picture of the joint deconstructed, this not my photo, and the joint on my table is more slender, but same concept.




I went for a more delicate look to this table, hence no stretchers under the table top. Top and bottom shelf are a full 1" thick but don't look it because I beveled the underside of each. 

I don't notice a difference in stability with figured wood, just harder to work with tools and avoiding tearout. I've been saving that piece of maple for years waiting for the right project.

No cross members under the bottom shelf, hard to tell but I designed a lip within the contour of the leg that comes up under the shelf a full inch for support. Design also takes into account wood movement, wood moves across the grain, the grain on the top and the bottom shelf run the same direction and the legs should move with them both as the seasons change and the humidity changes.


----------



## Brian72

Bmac said:


> My wife requested an oval table for the foyer of our house. I was more than happy to produce one for her.
> Finished this table over the weekend. Made from milled wood I had, cherry and maple. The bottom shelf shows off the figured maple nicely.
> 
> 
> View attachment 634711
> View attachment 634712
> View attachment 634713
> View attachment 634714


You do some beautiful work Bmac! Thanks for sharing.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Marine5068

Bmac said:


> My wife requested an oval table for the foyer of our house. I was more than happy to produce one for her.
> Finished this table over the weekend. Made from milled wood I had, cherry and maple. The bottom shelf shows off the figured maple nicely.
> 
> 
> View attachment 634711
> View attachment 634712
> View attachment 634713
> View attachment 634714


WOW, that's fantastic.
You don't see that work in solid wood anymore.
It fits perfectly along that curved wall too.
Lucky woman.


----------



## BlackCoffin

Cherry live edge with stainless legs. A little overbuilt but I like it that way. First table I’ve ever done and looking forward to making more! Finished with Rubio Monocoat and sprayed the bark with satin polyurethane.


----------



## KiwiBro

BlackCoffin said:


> Cherry live edge with stainless legs. A little overbuilt but I like it that way. First table I’ve ever done and looking forward to making more! Finished with Rubio Monocoat and sprayed the bark with satin polyurethane.View attachment 638127
> View attachment 638128


Nice table and metal work. That slab is a perfect candidate for a bow tie strap/spline across that crack.


----------



## BlackCoffin

KiwiBro said:


> Nice table and metal work. That slab is a perfect candidate for a bow tie strap/spline across that crack.


I could always incinerate that later! What’s nice about the finish is you should be able to make repairs and whatnot without seeing a change in the new VS old material.


----------



## Brian72

BlackCoffin said:


> Cherry live edge with stainless legs. A little overbuilt but I like it that way. First table I’ve ever done and looking forward to making more! Finished with Rubio Monocoat and sprayed the bark with satin polyurethane.View attachment 638127
> View attachment 638128


Nice work!


Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Mad Professor

This is pretty crude compared to what most are posting here, but I needed a good wood rack. 

I also was exploring TF scribe rule layout, and needed to practice . So I milled up some 4" X 4" white ash; logosol, 066, 63PMX chain. The PMX chain leaves a pretty smooth finish right off the mill.

Then I got out the chalkline, divider/compass, chisels, handsaws and auger. You can see the layout marks on the joints. I did not use any rulers/tapes/squares/power tools. Bottom bearing joints are shouldered mortise and tenon. You can see layout marks, every thing came out perfectly square.

The rack is about 20" X 60" X 90", holds about 10-14 days worth of wood (22" ash in pic), kindling goes on top


----------



## Brian72

Mad Professor said:


> This is pretty crude compared to what most are posting here, but I needed a good wood rack.
> 
> I also was exploring TF scribe rule layout, and needed to practice . So I milled up some 4" X 4" white ash; logosol, 066, 63PMX chain. The PMX chain leaves a pretty smooth finish right off the mill.
> 
> Then I got out the chalkline, divider/compass, chisels, handsaws and auger. You can see the layout marks on the joints. I did not use any rulers/tapes/squares/power tools. Bottom bearing joints are shouldered mortise and tenon. You can see layout marks, every thing came out perfectly square.
> 
> The rack is about 20" X 60" X 90", holds about 10-14 days worth of wood (22" ash in pic), kindling goes on top
> 
> View attachment 638190
> View attachment 638191
> View attachment 638192
> View attachment 638193


Nice job on the joints. I need to try some projects like this.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Czech_Made

Roof for pizza oven. The frame and rafters are from white oak, purlins pine. I will use masterrib metal roofing to finish it.


----------



## rarefish383

Finally got the pics of my friends mantles in their timber framed home. I was having a bit of trouble seeing in my minds eye, how two mantles so narrow would work. So, here's the pic of the mantles as I milled and surfaced them, and two pics of the finished project. On my phone you couldn't really see the wood. So, this is the first time I've seen them on a bigger screen.














One reason the top piece looks so dark is it's head on into the bark. They wanted to leave the bark on, and used an epoxy finish. Hope it lasts a long time.


----------



## rarefish383

I just asked for a couple more pics so we can see the grain and the bark joining.


----------



## Bmac

Just finished these with walnut milled 2 years ago. If you have access to walnut and aren't milling it you need to start. Got some great figure in these stools.


----------



## Marine5068

rarefish383 said:


> Finally got the pics of my friends mantles in their timber framed home. I was having a bit of trouble seeing in my minds eye, how two mantles so narrow would work. So, here's the pic of the mantles as I milled and surfaced them, and two pics of the finished project. On my phone you couldn't really see the wood. So, this is the first time I've seen them on a bigger screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One reason the top piece looks so dark is it's head on into the bark. They wanted to leave the bark on, and used an epoxy finish. Hope it lasts a long time.


Nice. Looks like Red Oak?


----------



## rarefish383

Yep.


----------



## Czech_Made

Finished the oven roof.


----------



## BobL

The local young fella who runs a micro street-side cafe bought some slabs I milled couple of years ago and made 2 tables and two stand up benches as his only cafe tables. Recently he and his business partner also bought a small roastery and came to see me to buy more slabs. This is one they made into what is called a cupping table - the term cupping refers to "coffee cupping" a minimal interference method of brewing the roasted coffee not long after it comes out of the roaster. Usually the roasters plus the hangers on all get to try the cupping. They did both the wood and metal work.


----------



## KiwiBro

Has anyone else had to do this when the timber was too heavy to get through the planer/thicknesser?


----------



## Pagie

yes it works.


----------



## Marine5068

BobL said:


> The local young fella who runs a micro street-side cafe bought some slabs I milled couple of years ago and made 2 tables and two stand up benches as his only cafe tables. Recently he and his business partner also bought a small roastery and came to see me to buy more slabs. This is one they made into what is called a cupping table - the term cupping refers to "coffee cupping" a minimal interference method of brewing the roasted coffee not long after it comes out of the roaster. Usually the roasters plus the hangers on all get to try the cupping. They did both the wood and metal work.
> View attachment 662603


What kind of wood is it Bob?


----------



## Czech_Made

KiwiBro said:


> Has anyone else had to do this when the timber was too heavy to get through the planer/thicknesser?
> 
> View attachment 664682



Wow, what an idea


----------



## 808fish

I made this coffee table out of a slab from a Koa tree that I milled. This was actually my first tree to mill too.


----------



## KiwiBro

808fish said:


> I made this coffee table out of a slab from a Koa tree that I milled. This was actually my first tree to mill too.
> View attachment 665397
> 
> 
> View attachment 665398


wow. Beautiful. What did you finish it with please?


----------



## 808fish

KiwiBro said:


> wow. Beautiful. What did you finish it with please?


Thank you. It’s thin coats of satin spar urethane . Then finished up with beeswax buffed in with ultra fine steel wool


----------



## Brian72

808fish said:


> I made this coffee table out of a slab from a Koa tree that I milled. This was actually my first tree to mill too.
> View attachment 665397
> 
> 
> View attachment 665398


Very nice!

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Timberframed

Milled five of these out of a Red Maple which let a 20" branch snap of 20' up. Figure I'd use the Rockwell 653 to do most of the bull work. Don't let your power planers and sanders heat up to melt wires.


----------



## KiwiBro

I wonder how many belt sanders still have the original lengths of cord. Mine certainly shrink over the years.


----------



## Timberframed

As for original lengths for sanders over 30 years old? None. As for guys who don't their wives handle hard woods other things shrink as well. Keep on sawin'


----------



## KiwiBro

Timberframed said:


> As for original lengths for sanders over 30 years old? None. As for guys who don't their wives handle hard woods other things shrink as well. Keep on sawin'


Hopefully we are not like sanding belts and get changed once worn out.


----------



## MGoodwin

Posted about my boat a few months ago. After working on and off its finally complete. The boat is birch with ponderosa pine oars. The oars are pretty down and dirty, wasnt sure how I wanted them so I plan to make a new set. I did three coats of epoxy and three coats of spar varnish for UV. All in all it turned out great, wish I had spent more time on the epoxy as a closer inspection of finish isn't what it could have been. Not a big deal as its a work/play boat.


----------



## KiwiBro

MGoodwin said:


> Posted about my boat a few months ago. After working on and off its finally complete. The boat is birch with ponderosa pine oars. The oars are pretty down and dirty, wasnt sure how I wanted them so I plan to make a new set. I did three coats of epoxy and three coats of spar varnish for UV. All in all it turned out great, wish I had spent more time on the epoxy as a closer inspection of finish isn't what it could have been. Not a big deal as its a work/play boat.
> View attachment 671374


Lovely. Got any more pictures please? Is it stable on the water? Rows well?


----------



## kimosawboy

Just finished a set of speaker carcasses with stands.. Used some bigleaf maple that I milled last year.. F

or this project I no bandsaw so I had to mill most things on the table saw and then reglue.. I ripped a 3" slab down the middle then cut 6" from each side, back thru the saw at 7/8", flipped all the pieces so it was heartwood on the outside before gluing. I really liked the natural look but the client wanted dark...


----------



## Bmac

Kimosawboy, Nice Joinery!


----------



## DSW

Some excellent work here fellas.

I've planned to do a rocking chair, all curved pieces cut as blanks. Pretty uncommon way of doing it i believe. 

I've found I'm happier with rough projects than projects that never leave my brain. I'm currently on a VERY busy schedule however.


----------



## Bmac

I've been in my shop quite a bit over the summer. Thought I'd share a few things I put together from wood I milled;

First is a cabinet made in the form and style of the famous cabinet maker Krenov. All dovetails were handcut and I used Norway Maple with Black Walnut. Drawer pull was carved from a piece of pear.










Next are two chairs, one made out of Black Walnut and one out of Black Cherry. Design is from Scott Morrison, these chairs have a really unique look and are perfect for putting in a corner since there are only 3 legs.


----------



## Brian72

Bmac said:


> I've been in my shop quite a bit over the summer. Thought I'd share a few things I put together from wood I milled;
> 
> First is a cabinet made in the form and style of the famous cabinet maker Krenov. All dovetails were handcut and I used Norway Maple with Black Walnut. Drawer pull was carved from a piece of pear.
> 
> View attachment 679390
> 
> View attachment 679391
> 
> View attachment 679392
> 
> View attachment 679393
> 
> 
> Next are two chairs, one made out of Black Walnut and one out of Black Cherry. Design is from Scott Morrison, these chairs have a really unique look and are perfect for putting in a corner since there are only 3 legs.
> 
> View attachment 679394
> 
> View attachment 679395
> 
> View attachment 679396


Amazing Bmac! Your work is so unique. I love it!

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## bayard

very very nice work.


----------



## waross

Built last winter. Have.pics of of it all along the way. All White Oak except for panels on sides and bottoms of shelves. Faces of shelves Red Oak. Weighs about 250lbs. Top is 2.5 " with 4" skirting.


















Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


----------



## Brian72

waross said:


> Built last winter. Have.pics of of it all along the way. All White Oak except for panels on sides and bottoms of shelves. Faces of shelves Red Oak. Weighs about 250lbs. Top is 2.5 " with 4" skirting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


Wow! Great job!

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## agrams

A pecan table from a tree I milled:









A mesquite desk:









Mesquite coffee table:





A pecan desk ( Milled the top, but the panels are pecky pecan veneers I bought)









Another pecan desk from the same tree:





A mesquite table:





A mesquite desk:









a mesquite table (I call this the horse table)





A cherry table:









A mesquite humidor:


----------



## Brian72

agrams said:


> A pecan table from a tree I milled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A mesquite desk:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mesquite coffee table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pecan desk ( Milled the top, but the panels are pecky pecan veneers I bought)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another pecan desk from the same tree:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A mesquite table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A mesquite desk:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a mesquite table (I call this the horse table)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cherry table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A mesquite humidor:


Beautiful work! Those woods are gorgeous! 

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## KiwiBro

agrams said:


> A pecan table from a tree I milled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A mesquite desk:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mesquite coffee table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pecan desk ( Milled the top, but the panels are pecky pecan veneers I bought)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another pecan desk from the same tree:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A mesquite table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A mesquite desk:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a mesquite table (I call this the horse table)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cherry table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A mesquite humidor:



Wow. Lovely stuff. Just like we can tell a fair bit about a faller from the stumps they leave, your works speaks volumes. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Czech_Made

Gate from white oak.


----------



## Bmac

Latest projects, these were a challenge. Used Walnut, Cherry and Norway Maple. Got some great grain and figure as the tops of the stands were resawn from thicker boards, one reason I like to mill thicker boards.


----------



## Czech_Made

Bmac said:


> Latest projects, these were a challenge. Used Walnut, Cherry and Norway Maple. Got some great grain and figure as the tops of the stands were resawn from thicker boards, one reason I like to mill thicker boards.



Beautiful!


----------



## djones

Replacement woodshed with 95% new milled wood from our own woodlot. Some donated wood from a local farm had charming bullet holes in it with plenty of lead remnants. Adds character to the wood.


----------



## motolife313

That’s a nice shed you made nice job! I was thinking about milling up some wood and building a wood shed myself. Do you think it will work with half way seasoned lumber?


----------



## Czech_Made

I am milling lot of pine these days, here is some of the refuse used to build rough but solid outdoor furniture. No planing, rounded edges and mostly nailed together.


----------



## M.R.

Nothing fancy or even close to the craftsmanship in most the pictures on here!
Just some blue stain pine going up in a 12’ x 16’ bedroom.


----------



## kimosawboy

Dam Table
Backstory on this.... I have a client who makes apothecary items and recently she asked if I knew where any cottonwoods were for the buds..me being the nice guy that I'm said sure. Long story short, wacked three cottonwoods down next to a beaver dam, figuring that the buds will go to my client and the beavers would have the rest (as they were constructing a dam very close by)....Move ahead 3-4 weeks and i went back to see what the little guys had been up to..turn out the had pulled most of the trees away with the exceptions of a few bigger pieces.
Since i'm a creative type guy I grabbed the larger ''logs'' (6-12") and brought them home with the intention of doing something with them.... Move ahead to last weekend, wife bring up the conversation of our crappy deck table and since I build high end tables for clients ''why do we not have a ''nicer'' table''.. SO you can see where this went to ..
The top is fir left over from another project and the remainder is cottonwood (dark leg is actually wild cherry)[


.. I think the only thing I milled with my chainsaw is the logs and after that I ran everything thru my large bandsaw...
I'm happy , the wife is happy and i'm confident the beavers are content.
(yes..that is growth you see on the pics)View attachment 736522
View attachment 736522


----------



## Czech_Made

That's very nice ^^^^


----------



## Czech_Made

One more crude bench


----------



## Czech_Made

Small bridge, Virginia is getting lots of rain and it was needed.


----------



## Czech_Made

Steps for the porch.


----------



## Czech_Made

I rebuilt old wine press with white oak I milled.


----------



## Marine5068

waross said:


> Built last winter. Have.pics of of it all along the way. All White Oak except for panels on sides and bottoms of shelves. Faces of shelves Red Oak. Weighs about 250lbs. Top is 2.5 " with 4" skirting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


Almost too nice to use as a workbench.


----------



## Marine5068

agrams said:


> A pecan table from a tree I milled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A mesquite desk:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mesquite coffee table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pecan desk ( Milled the top, but the panels are pecky pecan veneers I bought)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another pecan desk from the same tree:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A mesquite table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A mesquite desk:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a mesquite table (I call this the horse table)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cherry table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A mesquite humidor:


What do you use to fill in the cracks on table tops etc? Epoxy?


----------



## agrams

Marine5068 said:


> What do you use to fill in the cracks on table tops etc? Epoxy?



Yeah, Raka UV inhibited epoxy is my usual. It has challenges with heat/shrinking in larger voids, so I have to do it in layers ~1/4-1/2" thick max, but its a lot better price point than west system epoxy.


----------



## TraditionalTool

stonykill said:


> you can't see the pics? they show fine on my end


They don't show for me, I get an access violation. They don't show in any of the posts either.


----------



## Brent Nowell

Bmac said:


> I've been in my shop quite a bit over the summer. Thought I'd share a few things I put together from wood I milled;
> 
> First is a cabinet made in the form and style of the famous cabinet maker Krenov. All dovetails were handcut and I used Norway Maple with Black Walnut. Drawer pull was carved from a piece of pear.
> 
> View attachment 679390
> 
> View attachment 679391
> 
> View attachment 679392
> 
> View attachment 679393
> 
> 
> Next are two chairs, one made out of Black Walnut and one out of Black Cherry. Design is from Scott Morrison, these chairs have a really unique look and are perfect for putting in a corner since there are only 3 legs.
> 
> View attachment 679394
> 
> View attachment 679395
> 
> View attachment 679396



Bmac that level of craftsmanship is amazing, un real!


----------



## Bmac

Brent Nowell said:


> Bmac that level of craftsmanship is amazing, un real!


Thanks!


----------



## lone wolf

Marine5068 said:


> What do you use to fill in the cracks on table tops etc? Epoxy?


Very nice stuff there.


----------



## Marine5068

Some 10" wide 5/4 milled Eastern White Pine for a drive in shed built in to a double carport I built last year.
Each bay is 12' wide by 20' long and 10' to underside of ceiling.


----------



## Marine5068

Czech_Made said:


> Steps for the porch.


Nice Job. Clean and sturdy looking.
Love those heavy steps on the lighter looking metal stringers.
I did a similar set for a retaining wall access stair. 
Really liked the metal stringers. Got them from my local Lowe's store.
I used pressure treated Spruce 2"x 10" for stair treads.
I just need to stain them now.


----------



## Marine5068

Another pic of the carport/shed on a bit warmer day.


----------



## buttercup

Czech_Made said:


> I rebuilt old wine press with white oak I milled.



That's beautiful - like a piece of art.


----------



## Bmac

Marine5068 said:


> Another pic of the carport/shed on a bit warmer day.
> View attachment 757506



Looks great, but it looks like your cars got displaced by your drying lumber stacks!


----------



## Marine5068

Bmac said:


> Looks great, but it looks like your cars got displaced by your drying lumber stacks!


Yep, but just temporarily.
That's all my house siding lumber.
I used the carport for sun and wind cover to stain it all by hand before I installed it.
It's local Eastern White Pine bought from a mill up the road.
It's shaped into square log siding, tongue and groove, 2" thick by 10" wide.


----------



## Leeroy

Piece meal siding on our barn. Milled with a Granberg. Wasteful I know, but I had the time and the logs.
Pitch pine and White Pine.


----------



## Czech_Made

Marine5068 said:


> Nice Job. Clean and sturdy looking.
> Love those heavy steps on the lighter looking metal stringers.
> I did a similar set for a retaining wall access stair.
> Really liked the metal stringers. Got them from my local Lowe's store.
> I used pressure treated Spruce 2"x 10" for stair treads.
> I just need to stain them now.



Thank you. I had to exchange one of the stringers, the difference was 1/2" in length, it would drive me crazy.


----------



## Czech_Made

Our new gate - boards are oak from my sawmill with shiplap. Still need to mark and cut the top arch.


----------



## buttercup

Czech_Made said:


> Our new gate - boards are oak from my sawmill with shiplap. Still need to mark and cut the top arch.



Nice!


----------



## Czech_Made

Sawmill shelter. The beam is from Home Depot, posts are eastern red cedar and purlins pine. Span twenty feed mines posts, that makes it nineteen feet.


----------



## Marine5068

Czech_Made said:


> Sawmill shelter. The beam is from Home Depot, posts are eastern red cedar and purlins pine. Span twenty feed mines posts, that makes it nineteen feet.


I bet it'll be nicer milling under shelter.
Looks good.
Those are called rafters though. Purlins are something different, but no biggie.
I'd have to put in another post here with our high snow loads, or a WAY deeper and larger beam.
Are the posts 6"x 6" size? 
What size is that beam two 2"x 10" or 2"x 12"?


----------



## Czech_Made

Rafters are pine too, milled them myself. 2x6-10. Forgot to list them. 

Posts are real 6x6, just cut, no planing. 

The beam is 1 3/4 x 11 7/8, it was abut $100 at Home Depot, quite happy with it.


----------



## ML12

A "boat shelf" for the living room. Planking is red cedar, ribs and keel are maple. The fiancé says she wanted one, so I figured I'd try to make a boat, then turn it into a shelf. Lots of re-sawing was required.










The cedar has some dry rot holes, which don't matter, but what I can say is that I have a new appreciation for people who build wood boats. Also, I've learned a lot so next time (if there ever is a next time) I know what not to do.


----------



## cantoo

I don't post here but I likely should be reading here more. Woodland Mills HM130. This is my grandsons basement. He was 4 when he helped cut the live edge on the bandsaw. My wife is getting pictures developed of him hauling the logs home and him pushing the saw while cutting them on the mill to put on the shelves. Picture is kind of dark but 65" TV, cedar mantle and electric ( yes electric) fireplace below it, backing is beadboard from Home Depot. Both sides are 36" high cabinets built in place and Home Depot doors ( for now). 19" cedar wide counter, 12" and then 9" wide cedar shelves above it. On top is a bulkhead with led pot lites.


----------



## abbott295

"Pot lites"? Is that legal there?


----------



## KiwiBro

From slabs left over from milling last summer.


----------



## TedyOH

Milled some future black cherry coffee tables today.....was able to get 4 good 2.5" pieces out of the 36" log I drug out of the woods.....















Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## buttercup

Sawhorse, spruce.


----------



## Marine5068

buttercup said:


> Sawhorse, spruce.
> View attachment 800387
> View attachment 800388
> View attachment 800389
> View attachment 800390


Wow.
That's a really nice saw buck.
I made one from old scrap 2x6s, but mines real ugly and used for 9 years now so chainsaw nicked up a bit.
I added a chain on the outside of the bottom part of the legs so as to not open too far and stress the wood when fully open.
They sure do help on the back when blocking logs.


----------



## Marine5068

Here's mine I built 9 years ago


----------



## BobL

A retired school mate of mine got into contact with me to ask about restoring some of his dad's old tools.
After we did those he asked me about making a workbench and we ended up making this.




It's made from a mix of Spotted Gum and Western Australian Redgum that I milled about 12 years ago. I have heaps of this stuff laying around slowing going rotten or cracking up so it took about half a dozen slabs to retrieve enough decent lumber for the bench . The left overs (4 large wheel barrow loads) made exceedingly fine firewood.
Spotted gum now grows like a weed in many places round the world including SoCal where grows all crooked and twisty so its near useless as a lumber tree. In Oz it can grow straight and tall and makes good lumber although being highly cross gained its very difficult to work.

The bench is just over 5 ft long, 3 ft high and 2 ft deep.
The top is a single slab 1 5/8" thick. the whole thing weighs in at just over 200lbs.


----------



## Marine5068

BobL said:


> A retired school mate of mine got into contact with me to ask about restoring some of his dad's old tools.
> After we did those he asked me about making a workbench and we ended up making this.
> 
> View attachment 867390
> 
> 
> It's made from a mix of Spotted Gum and Western Australian Redgum that I milled about 12 years ago. I have heaps of this stuff laying around slowing going rotten or cracking up so it took about half a dozen slabs to retrieve enough decent lumber for the bench . The left overs (4 large wheel barrow loads) made exceedingly fine firewood.
> Spotted gum now grows like a weed in many places round the world including SoCal where grows all crooked and twisty so its near useless as a lumber tree. In Oz it can grow straight and tall and makes good lumber although being highly cross gained its very difficult to work.
> 
> The bench is just over 5 ft long, 3 ft high and 2 ft deep.
> The top is a single slab 1 5/8" thick. the whole thing weighs in at just over 200lbs.


That's a beauty work bench. I especially like the wood vice with distinct handle that reminds me of high school shop classes.
I love that you used old lumber and that it's made heavy enough to not move or jostle around when working on it.
It's also why I never throw out any good wood. It may come in handy one day, to someone.
I need to get busy building more wood projects. I've got lots of Eastern Red Oak to mill.
Cheers Bob.


----------



## 711ac

Just wrapped up generator shed. First project for the mill.










20KW diesel power sitting on 200g of fuel. Hopefully I just guaranteed the power wont go out, but I'd be good with that.


----------



## Down Home Dave

Cool thread.

my recents...

Storm came, power company cut walnut, left it lay. I grabbed it, slabbed it, dried it three years. made daughter a desk. made myself a shot weighted mallet with the scraps. floors are hickory, counter tops are white oak.


----------



## Bmac

BobL said:


> A retired school mate of mine got into contact with me to ask about restoring some of his dad's old tools.
> After we did those he asked me about making a workbench and we ended up making this.
> 
> View attachment 867390
> 
> 
> It's made from a mix of Spotted Gum and Western Australian Redgum that I milled about 12 years ago. I have heaps of this stuff laying around slowing going rotten or cracking up so it took about half a dozen slabs to retrieve enough decent lumber for the bench . The left overs (4 large wheel barrow loads) made exceedingly fine firewood.
> Spotted gum now grows like a weed in many places round the world including SoCal where grows all crooked and twisty so its near useless as a lumber tree. In Oz it can grow straight and tall and makes good lumber although being highly cross gained its very difficult to work.
> 
> The bench is just over 5 ft long, 3 ft high and 2 ft deep.
> The top is a single slab 1 5/8" thick. the whole thing weighs in at just over 200lbs.


Beauty of a bench. A nice workbench really ups your game when woodworking. Made mine out of Red Oak, weighs a ton and takes a ton of abuse.

I haven't posted any projects on here for a while so here's a few now that this thread is up and running.

Chair and table made from black walnut, my preferred species.




Some bandsaw boxes from scrap pieces;




And a few cherry lounge chairs sunnying themselves as I'm about to deliver them to my upholstery guy;


----------



## toadman

I feel like an outlier, in that my stuff is far from as nice as what most of you are posting... Most of my wood is still drying, I'm pretty new to CSM. 
I was pretty proud of the straight even cut lines I got milling the day I cut the legs & I left them alone other than a brush up with a wire brush. One's cherry, the other's walnut, and the top is poplar, legs pocket holed and dovetail slotted from back.
I got lucky & my sharpening was on point... It made the milling exceptionally smooth and fast compared to other days when I first started


----------



## Ripandsplit

711ac said:


> Just wrapped up generator shed. First project for the mill.
> 
> 
> View attachment 867930
> 
> View attachment 867931
> 
> View attachment 867932
> 
> View attachment 867933
> 
> 20KW diesel power sitting on 200g of fuel. Hopefully I just guaranteed the power wont go out, but I'd be good with that.


That is an epic gen shed ! Brilliant job


----------



## dallasm1

Timber hackery from local red cedar...... for the grandson.


----------



## Czech_Made

From facebook, not from me. I have a headache just trying to imagine the joint in 3D.


----------



## ElevatorGuy

711ac said:


> Just wrapped up generator shed. First project for the mill.
> 
> 
> View attachment 867930
> 
> View attachment 867931
> 
> View attachment 867932
> 
> View attachment 867933
> 
> 20KW diesel power sitting on 200g of fuel. Hopefully I just guaranteed the power wont go out, but I'd be good with that.


Is that a 4bt?


----------



## 1stgenfarmboy

Bought a Woodland Mills a few months ago, first was a shed, used grain bin side panels for the roof, cedar poles, and a standing dead oak, then a coat of used oil and diesel fuel, my Grandpa's Saw's for a little decor.


----------



## 1stgenfarmboy

Next was a 35ft bridge over a creek between the farm and my daughter's house for the grandkids to travel back and forth, the oak boards are 2.5 thick x 18 +.


----------



## 711ac

ElevatorGuy said:


> Is that a 4bt?


Just a little 4 cyl "Onan" diesel. I do have a 30kw back in MD I'd like to sell or get up here to Maine with a 4Bt.


----------



## hazard

a few projects from this summer. 1st picture is of sugar maple from the city dump I milled in 1999. 2nd picture is of white oak I milled in 2009

Chris


----------



## gnef

I started my milling adventure over 3 years ago when my Mother In Law was cutting down a sweet gum tree, and I asked her to ask the arborist to leave the bigger logs so that I could try to cut them up. I only had an MS250 at the time, and couldn't justify making any big purchases at the time, so I ended up freehand milling one log, and then building a jig to use with the edging mills to run on a 2x6 to mill the second log vertically, which worked much better, and was inexpensive, just slow with the small saw. Now that I've had the slabs for years, I've been able to make quite a few projects out of the sweetgum:

I built a new main desk: 





the top and the legs are all made from sweet gum, the only other wood are purpleheart wedges for the through mortise and tenons joints for the legs:





I've also built a small stool for my children:




I only added padauk as a contrast for the tenon key

Before I built the main desk above, I did a prototype, building a small desk/table for when I was doing virtual teaching from the basement:





I also built an outdoor bench for our backyard from one of the slabs with purpleheart bowties:





As a quick side project, I also turned a sidewheel for my lathe:


----------



## unclemoustache

A built-in desk for my Airbnb.
There's another 16" wide piece next to the laundry machines.

.


----------



## J D

Not "built" as such but I made this for our neighbors who are moving down South. It's an image of their house on a piece of redwood from a tree that originally stood in front of their house


----------



## husqhawk8

Made this out of a Hickory that was struck by lightening. It was my son's wedding present. I definitely some things dealing with the epoxy and drying wood properly. I made a neat epoxy river head board out of the same tree that warped and was ruined. I never dried any of the slabs properly. Milled with my 3120xp.
The gun is set up for 1000 yards. We hope Iowa opens up the late high power season again soon.


----------



## Czech_Made

Doors for sunroom, oak. Waiting for glass.


----------



## BobL

12 years ago I milled this log, a common Western Australian bloodwood called Marri.
Early settlers didn't like them as they suffered badly from ring shake so timber cutters and millers left them alone.
100+ years later they discovered that some logs didn't suffer ring shake and now its a prized furniture grade timber.


This log was particularly nice because it had an unusual curly grain.


I'd forgotten I even milled this log but stumbled across it amongst my slab stash and brought a couple of slabs home and they stood in my driveway for a couple of years.

Last year SWMBO asked me for a Wool Drum Carder as a Xmas present - I took one look at one on you tube and figured I could make it.
Drum carders tease out tangled mixed up hanks of dirty wool into beautiful long "bats" of aligned wooden fibres suitable for spinning or other wood crafts.
I though that a striking type of wood might be a good use for this item and a day or so later I was re-sawing a Marri slab to make the wooden components.
And 5 months later (this is really good for me!) here it is. All made in my home shop.



Apart from a couple of custom made bronze washers, all the metal bits, including the fasteners, are 316 Stainless steel.
I already had some of the 316 and all of the fasteners in my stash but did have to buy some 2" and 1 5/8" 316 shorts.
It took me a long time to turn all the pulleys, flanges, bearing holders and locking collars, but I count myself lucky I only had to make one part (a locking collar) twice.



The Carding cloth with all those spikes was the most expensive component and cost about US$80.



Here you can see the belt drive orientation and tensioning mechanism - it's set up this way so the two drums rotate opposite to each other to help tease out the wool.
The big drum is made up like a barrel - the centre of the drum is hollow as I was going to fill it with lead shot to give it increased smoothness and added angular momentum but the timber is pretty dense anyway so it was not needed.



I deliberately did not fill any cracks or defects in the timber - just showed the wood as it is. I did have to cut around some major defects so I probably used 30% more timber than I would have otherwise.
The is the underside of the frame showing the threaded sockets into which the removable legs are screwed.
The handle and legs can easily be removed to aid storage.



Under the feed in table I added a small box to put the tools and adjustment keys into


This is what the wool looks like before (this has already been washed) ie all tangled



This is after several passes thru the carder.



I really enjoyed this project and SWMBO is already heavily using it.


----------



## djg james

BobL said:


> 12 years ago I milled this log, a common Western Australian bloodwood called Marri.
> Early settlers didn't like them as they suffered badly from ring shake so timber cutters and millers left them alone.
> 100+ years later they discovered that some logs didn't suffer ring shake and now its a prized furniture grade timber.
> View attachment 906028
> 
> This log was particularly nice because it had an unusual curly grain.
> View attachment 906029
> 
> I'd forgotten I even milled this log but stumbled across it amongst my slab stash and brought a couple of slabs home and they stood in my driveway for a couple of years.
> 
> Last year SWMBO asked me for a Wool Drum Carder as a Xmas present - I took one look at one on you tube and figured I could make it.
> Drum carders tease out tangled mixed up hanks of dirty wool into beautiful long "bats" of aligned wooden fibres suitable for spinning or other wood crafts.
> I though that a striking type of wood might be a good use for this item and a day or so later I was re-sawing a Marri slab to make the wooden components.
> And 5 months later (this is really good for me!) here it is. All made in my home shop.
> View attachment 906030
> 
> 
> Apart from a couple of custom made bronze washers, all the metal bits, including the fasteners, are 316 Stainless steel.
> I already had some of the 316 and all of the fasteners in my stash but did have to but some 2" and 1 5/8" 316 shorts.
> It took me a long time to turn all the pulleys, flanges, bearing holders and locking collars, but I count myself lucky I only had to make one part (a locking collar) twice.
> View attachment 906031
> 
> 
> Teh Caring cloth with all those spikes was the most expensive component and cost about US$80.
> View attachment 906032
> 
> 
> Here you can see the belt drive orientation and tensioning mechanism - it's set up this way so the two drums rotate opposite to each other to help tease out the wool.
> The big drum is made up like a barrel - the centre of the drum is hollow as I was going to fill it with lead shot to give it increased smoothness and added angular momentum but the timber is pretty dense anyway so it was not needed.
> View attachment 906035
> 
> 
> I deliberately did not fill any cracks or defects in the timber - just showed the wood as it is. I did have to cut around some major defects so I probably used 30% more timber than I would have otherwise.
> The is the underside of the frame showing the threaded sockets into which the removable legs are screwed.
> The handle and legs can easily be removed to aid storage.
> View attachment 906033
> 
> 
> Under the feed in table I added a small box to put the tools and adjustment keys into
> View attachment 906034
> 
> This is what the wool looks like before (this has already been washed) ie all tangled
> View attachment 906036
> 
> 
> This is after several passes thru the carder.
> View attachment 906037
> 
> 
> I really enjoyed this project and SWMBO is already heavily using it.


Nice wood. Love the quilting. Amazing home-built machine.


----------



## kimosawboy

Front Entry Door built with milled wood..Rails and Stiles are laminated edge grain fir wrapped with 1/4” maple… Frame is old growth Fir, All live edge stuff is maple as well as the solid figured wood below the side light...


----------



## Czech_Made

kimosawboy said:


> Front Entry Door built with milled wood..Rails and Stiles are laminated edge grain fir wrapped with 1/4” maple… Frame is old growth Fir, All live edge stuff is maple as well as the solid figured wood below the side light...


WOW!


----------



## Bmac

kimosawboy said:


> Front Entry Door built with milled wood..Rails and Stiles are laminated edge grain fir wrapped with 1/4” maple… Frame is old growth Fir, All live edge stuff is maple as well as the solid figured wood below the side light...


Nice job, really unique!


----------



## buzz sawyer

Here are a couple coffee table tops made with Ash I slabbed a few years ago. The butterflies are Marblewood and about 1 1/4" deep. This was one one plank about 8' long.


----------



## HumBurner

You guys are putting me to shame in the looks department (beautiful, much of it), but I'm aiming for function only at this point.


I finally got my garden work table/seed starting table built. The shorter portion to the right is for my lady, as I'm 6'3". 





I'm satisfied!


----------



## BobL

Wow - what a view!


----------



## stonykill

Wow. I can't believe a thread I started a LONG time ago is still alive. 
Beautiful work everyone!


----------



## BobL

stonykill said:


> Wow. I can't believe a thread I started a LONG time ago is still alive.
> Beautiful work everyone!


Its pity so many pictures were lost from this thread, especially yours Stony as some of your early posts had quality/impressive pics in them all done with a 50cc saw as I recall.
Apparently it happened to a lot of forums during a 2012 forum software update.
If you are a long standing member and posted a lot of photos the Mods are interested in getting them reinserted.
If you see them nicely they might let you re-edit your old posts so you can re-insert lost pictures.
I have been slowly putting mine back in.
Only have about 2000 to go!.


----------



## Sawyer Rob

A bridge, quite a ways out in the woods,







Almost done,






Just need to trim the boards, and bolt a 2x on both ends of the boards...

SR


----------



## SawmillMan

Making a few cabinets to help a friend with a kitchen update. Matching his current cabinets is necessary. More photos when installation is complete.


----------



## SawmillMan

Sawyer Rob said:


> A bridge, quite a ways out in the woods,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost done,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need to trim the boards, and bolt a 2x on both ends of the boards...
> 
> SR



Bridges in remote areas are some of the best structures. They are enjoyed by few, typically, but they are magnificent finds to be relished.
This is a bridge my son built for a fella in Indiana. He logged, milled, designed and built this bridge with some good help in a few weekends. I don’t recall its dimensions, but it is much larger than it appears.


----------



## SS396driver

Vanity for the master bath Live edge is Hickory Cabinet is white oak from the horse stalls in my barn .


----------



## stonykill

Ill


BobL said:


> Its pity so many pictures were lost from this thread, especially yours Stony as some of your early posts had quality/impressive pics in them all done with a 50cc saw as I recall.
> Apparently it happened to a lot of forums during a 2012 forum software update.
> If you are a long standing member and posted a lot of photos the Mods are interested in getting them reinserted.
> If you see them nicely they might let you re-edit your old posts so you can re-insert lost pictures.
> I have been slowly putting mine back in.
> Only have about 2000 to go!.


I'll have to look through and see what i have for pictures. 
Yes, good memory. Much of my milling was done with 50 cc saws. I did step up to an 80cc pioneer near the end of my milling day's. 
I may start milling small logs again. I no longer build furniture for a living. But have recently gotten the bug to build again


----------



## lwmibc

Spalted beech, Christmas dinner (I got it done in time). The log that's shown in the sawmills thread.


----------



## mbrick

SawmillMan said:


> Bridges in remote areas are some of the best structures. They are enjoyed by few, typically, but they are magnificent finds to be relished.
> This is a bridge my son built for a fella in Indiana. He logged, milled, designed and built this bridge with some good help in a few weekends. I don’t recall its dimensions, but it is much larger than in appears.


That is a very nice looking structure. The large scale jointery on the support looks intricate! Surely a good find to stumble across in the woods.


----------



## chunky

Yall have me really wishing my wood was dry now...
I am fixing to start on shelf by joining 2 6ft boards together to see how that goes!

Sent from my SM-A526U using Tapatalk


----------



## susanC

I only have plans thus far. I have 20 acres of timber, plans to build a small cabin and I have narrowed the choice of sawmills down to 2. 
I’m having a joyous time /s filling out Land Management Plans in the meantime.


----------



## serioussam

I built these out of poplar that I milled off the property


----------



## SawmillMan

Are the stair treads inset in the stringers or just pegged/lag screwed & plugged? Looks very nice.


----------



## serioussam

Hey thanks , I used grk industrial screws counter sunk and plugged holes with dowels


----------



## chunky

Got just a simple shelf put together the other day. My daughter didn't want to wait on me to get a 10' slab cut so I had to join 2 slabs in the middle.
I usesd 5 half in dowels 6" long to join them. 
It's for shampoo in her salon so nothing fancy, just 2 coats of clear polyurethane 














Sent from my SM-A526U using Tapatalk


----------



## SawmillMan

Door construction detail 




End cap cabinet adjacent to a double oven.


----------



## dallasm1

Red Cedar fence and bridge (not as fancy as the other bridges!)


----------



## SawmillMan

dallasm1 said:


> Red Cedar fence and bridge (not as fancy as the other bridges!)View attachment 971986
> View attachment 971987


That’s a fantastic bridge. Don’t diminish your nice project by comparing it to other bridges. Very nice work and being red cedar it will last for quite a long time with no maintenance.


----------



## Drifter2406

stonykill said:


> *links to pics*
> 
> links for those who can't see pics
> 
> http://lh5.google.com/image/stonykill/Rh6f882bOPI/AAAAAAAAAD4/jIY-QRuCfhQ/DSCF0609.JPG?imgmax=512
> 
> http://lh3.google.com/image/stonykill/Rh6gDc2bOQI/AAAAAAAAAEA/qmSAWUI6LlA/DSCF0613.JPG?imgmax=512
> 
> http://lh3.google.com/image/stonykill/Rh6gYc2bORI/AAAAAAAAAEI/vGhOcSHpuL0/DSCF0610.JPG?imgmax=512


They look good, I will try and get there on the weekend and take a couple of pics of mine.


----------



## K-techcowboy

stonykill said:


> I am so bad at remembering to take pictures. Here are a few of my current projects. Both are birch that I milled from my land. The table is shown just stained and with one coat of sealer on the top. I'll finish spraying in the morning. The 2nd table picture is right after I sprayed the sealer, so there is a bit of overspray in the pic. The 2nd piece is a tv cabinet I have been building. That one won't be done for a week or so as its no hurry. I'll post pics of both finished after they are done. The table pics should be here saturday. All the birch was milled with a 48cc 031, 24 inch bar, baileys lp chain.
> 
> http://picasaweb.google.com/stonykill/PROJECTS


Well as soon as I get a most simplest of setups going ill be milling some beams and 2x4s to rebuild my shop that my ex wife burnt to the ground with everything I owned in it about a year and a half ago. I've got around 7 good sized oak logs i have fell throughout the last few months and finally have a worthy saw to get the job done. Can't wait.


----------



## BobL

A few weeks ago I milled this cracked dry cant of Silky Oak




Which my brother has just finished turning into this.


Some of the board were cracked but instead oaf cutting around the cracks he deliberately incorporated them


----------



## BobL

My Bro finished and hung the shelves.





The tan looking dog is supposedly part "Dingo" - native Australian dog.
His name is Moorditj which means "Tough guy" in the local indigenous language.
This is a bit of a joke because he is very gentle and affectionate which casts considerable doubt on the part Dingo theory as they are very wary/aloof dogs.


----------



## stonykill

BobL said:


> My Bro finished and hung the shelves.
> View attachment 975291
> View attachment 975292
> View attachment 975293
> 
> 
> The tan looking dog is supposedly part "Dingo" - native Australian dog.
> His name is Moorditj which means "Tough guy" in the local indigenous language.
> This is a bit of a joke because he is very gentle and affectionate which manes me think is probably not Dingo as they are very aloof dogs.


That is a fanfreakintastic shelving unit.


----------



## SawmillMan

Very nice work!!! It looks fabulous.


----------



## motolife313

One of my first wood working projects. Got a couple going on right now actually. Its red oak. Using one of my projects to hold everything flat.


----------



## BobL

I don't usually keep track of the slabs I sell but just before Xmas last year a young couple bought 3 slabs from me and I worked out pretty quickly they were on the "green side of wood working" and needed help.What they wanted to do was make some "rustic side" tables, and a long coffee table for their living room.
For a start they turned up with a small Hyundai hatchback hoping to fit 8 ft long slabs in the trunk with the back seat down. I ended up delivering the slabs for them with my van as they lived only a few blocks from my place.
Then they had no tools and didn't really know what they needed, but were prepared to buy some as they wanted to continue with woodworking, so advised them on tools, methods etc.
Anyway I was keen to see how they would get on so I asked them to send me any photos of completed products and yesterday they sent me this.
The legs were something they bought on-line.


Not bad for green woodworkers, even though it took them a lot longer than they anticipated.


----------



## benjo75

Just took a weekend and added on a half a bath.


----------



## SawmillMan

benjo75 said:


> Just took a weekend and added on a half a bath.


Two holer?


----------



## benjo75

Just one for now. Could easily be converted if needed. It's 5x5 so it's plenty big enough.


----------



## benjo75

The only thing I had to buy was the landscape timber for porch posts and door hinges. Had everything else. Got about $40 in it. Could have cut something for the porch posts but was as the lumber yard and they were only $3 each.


----------



## benjo75

That's a cool looking bench.


----------



## stonykill

benjo75 said:


> Just took a weekend and added on a half a bath.


That's great. I recently built an indoor one


----------



## BobL

And a place to put you reading material within easy reach I see!


----------



## unclemoustache

Found this tree at the local yard waste area and brought it home.
wow! Looking forward to playing with some of these!


----------



## chunky

I spent the weekend doing a project for the wife. Hopefully it won't take me much more to get it finished. Just a simple display bench to put pictures etc on/in












Sent from my SM-A526U using Tapatalk


----------



## BobL

These reminds me of this planter box put together by an 85 year old member of our Local Community Mens shed. (A community shop run by the local city council for retired fellas who need a bit of company or just a place to hang out and make/fix stuff).
There are quite a few members that are retired country folk who end up in retirement villages or aged care facilities - these blokes are dying to get into a shop and make stuff. The fella who put the planter box together had been an artillery armourer in the British Army and could do just about anything in wood or metal.
I milled the timber for him from a local small Spotted Gum (Eucalypt) tree.


----------



## windblown

Currently making up a fireplace mantelpiece out of a slab of Red Oak I milled from a tree that blew down behind the house. 6' L x 11 1/2" at it widest point x 3 3/4" thick. Just got finished apply stain. I was tempted to see how well a lots of coats of BLO, Varnish, & Mineral Spirits would darken it naturally but opted to give it a jump start with an Early American stain. 

Photo is of the bottom with cut-outs for the existing supports. Working it now even though it's not completely dry. I filled the existing cracks with a flexible marine epoxy. Any new ones that show up will just add a bit of rustic to it. I just hope it stay s pretty straight. A bit of an experiment with fingers crossed.


----------



## link

A stack.


----------



## chunky

Finally got the wife bench finished. She's real happy with how it turned out.
Well I am to [emoji16]
From yard to home [emoji106]














Sent from my SM-A526U using Tapatalk


----------



## unclemoustache

Very nice! You do anything special with the bark - take it off and glue it back on?


----------



## chunky

unclemoustache said:


> Very nice! You do anything special with the bark - take it off and glue it back on?


I removed all the bark. That's all wood in the pictures and why I chose this log for this project.

Sent from my SM-A526U using Tapatalk


----------



## djg james

motolife313 said:


> One of my first wood working projects. Got a couple going on right now actually. Its red oak. Using one of my projects to hold everything flat. View attachment 976610





motolife313 said:


> One of my first wood working projects. Got a couple going on right now actually. Its red oak. Using one of my projects to hold everything flat. View attachment 976611


Just saw this. Are you using a flattening jig? Free hand without letter templates? Wouldn't it just be easier without the jig?


----------



## camel2019

I’m hoping to get set up here soon enough to start milling. looking into what it takes to get lumber graded and such as I want make lumber to build a house on my future land. With lumber cost what they are and the garbage that is sold in the big box stores I don’t want to have to buy a single 2x4. We are allowed to use ungraded lumber in out buildings but not in house construction. I also like the idea of cedar siding and that’s just entirely unaffordable.


----------



## BobL

Well I finally got around to making enough of my 6 year old Autistic Grandsons drawing/craft desk to take some photos.
I Milled this Norfolk Island Pine back in January, then had to wait for it to dry.



Decided to uses a draw-bolt construction method as his parents want to be able to eventually knock it down and store it away
Made 16 SS Barrel nuts from 20mm rod.



The screws are M8 round headed hex sockets






Basic frame complete



Now I gotta work on the extendable legs and the top.


----------



## BobL

Not my work but I supplied the timber.
Back in Jan I started to mill this red ironbark (very hard).



I cut off the middle one of these pieces so that the log would fit on the mill.



I gave the piece to my wood carver mate and he used the middle one to make this


He started carving less than two years ago as a retirement hobby.


----------



## SawBawss

Here are a couple of my projects that are made from lodge pole pine that I cut down and my dad milled on his sawmill for me. Not quite finished with the corner table yet.


----------



## SawBawss

BobL said:


> Not my work but I supplied the timber.
> Back in Jan I started to mill this red ironbark (very hard).
> View attachment 984433
> 
> 
> I cut off the middle one of these pieces so that the log would fit on the mill.
> View attachment 984434
> 
> 
> I gave the piece to my wood carver mate and he used the middle one to make this
> View attachment 984435
> 
> He started carving less than two years ago as a retirement hobby.


That is impressive!


----------



## SawmillMan

Constructed a kitchen cart from maple. It will receive a granite top the client has to match his cabinets.


----------



## BobL

I finished the craft bench.
This shows the adjustable height legs








Here's the target user, my 6 year old autistic Grandson. He's into LEGO, drawing and lists. The one he's just written out are the 15 levels in Super Mario Odyssey.


----------



## SawmillMan

BobL said:


> I finished the craft bench.
> This shows the adjustable height legs
> View attachment 989938
> 
> 
> View attachment 989936
> 
> 
> View attachment 989937
> 
> Here's the target user, my 6 year old autistic Grandson. He's into LEGO, drawing and lists. The one he's just written out are the 15 levels in Super Mario Odyssey.


Now that’s really slick to have adjustable legs. Brilliant!


----------



## motolife313

Apple wood and and built the base yesterday


----------



## SS396driver

Nothing fancy making some stake sides for the 68 out of some hickory.


----------



## SawmillMan

I constructed a few drawers for a kitchen cabinet set I’m building for a client. They are constructed of hard maple. Over the years I’ve used several methods of drawer construction and dovetail drawers are the quickest and best method with my setup. The finish is nitrocellulose lacquer.


----------



## ValleyForge

SawmillMan said:


> I constructed a few drawers for a kitchen cabinet set I’m building for a client. They are constructed of hard maple. Over the years I’ve used several methods of drawer construction and dovetail drawers are the quickest and best method with my setup. The finish is nitrocellulose lacquer.
> 
> 
> View attachment 993231
> 
> 
> View attachment 993232
> 
> 
> View attachment 993233


Nice work….


----------



## BobL

When turning Aussie hardwoods into cants the outer face cuts usually end up in the fire wood pile but when you get wood like this I fin it hard to do this.



In this case the face cut slab looks like it might be thick enough to extract at least one moref narrower/thiner boards but the middle of this slab is quite thin and these boards will warp and cup like pretzels. I sometimes give these nicer looking cuts to my carver mate or the local community wood shop and the break it up for craft wood. However in this case I put them aside and let them ry our for a while and then resawed them with the smaller BS Mill.

I manage to get a few 1" boards out of the them but because they had warped slightly the last board from one slab came out about 7/8" thick at one end and just over 1/2" thick at the other so was just about to toss it out but I set it aside (I do a lot of that) and later had an ides to make this.
The leaf shape is similar to the leaves on Jarrah trees which is the type of timber.



I’m going to give it to my brother as a cartoucherie board as he's been asking me for one for years

Being leaf shaped means the small amount of twist and uneven thickness can just be part of the leaf shape design.
I cut it out on my bandsaw and at this point it was pristine ie no cracks, but I decide to let it dry out a bit a bit more so again, I set it aside.

A couple of weeks back I started shaping the sides using spokeshaves and a block plane.
Planing the flatter sides was impossible as it was not flat but the bandsaw tooth marks were easily removed with a belt sander with 120g belt.
Then I use an ROS 180 and then 240.
At this point I could see some short hairline cracks which I filled with epoxy. 

Last week I was handling some nitric acid in the shed and I had gloves on, but as I walked past the almost completely sanded board I touched it with a glove and there must have been a tiny drop of acid on the glove because a match head sized black spot quickly developed. I raced over to the sink and grabbed the emergency bucket of water I keep partially filled and used the water to dilute the acid. At first this spread the black spot even further but it stopped at about the size of a 5c piece and later when the board had dried it more or less sanded out but ( but I can still see it!)- the two people I have shown the board to have not been able to find it.

So far it's had one coat of Liberon oil which when dry was cut back with a used 240g ROS pad, and then another coat of oil.
I'm really pleased with the way the Liberon has not at all darkened the timber colour.
I'm not going to do more than another couple of coats of oil as I don't especially want it to be super glossy and neither do I want it to be super pristine .
It is after all, just a sort of a large "cutting board".



For a quirky feature I have left the end of the leaf stem untouched so it shows the chainsaw marks and white latex paint use to seal the end of the log.



I've given it some "feet" turned out of some of the waste timber from around the leaf shape.
This will make it easier to pick up and carry.



Here's a grain close up. 
The acid spot is still visible DANG! I hate that.


----------



## djg james

BobL said:


> When turning Aussie hardwoods into cants the outer face cuts usually end up in the fire wood pile but when you get wood like this I fin it hard to do this.
> View attachment 996295
> 
> 
> In this case the face cut slab looks like it might be thick enough to extract at least one moref narrower/thiner boards but the middle of this slab is quite thin and these boards will warp and cup like pretzels. I sometimes give these nicer looking cuts to my carver mate or the local community wood shop and the break it up for craft wood. However in this case I put them aside and let them ry our for a while and then resawed them with the smaller BS Mill.
> 
> I manage to get a few 1" boards out of the them but because they had warped slightly the last board from one slab came out about 7/8" thick at one end and just over 1/2" thick at the other so was just about to toss it out but I set it aside (I do a lot of that) and later had an ides to make this.
> The leaf shape is similar to the leaves on Jarrah trees which is the type of timber.
> View attachment 996297
> 
> 
> I’m going to give it to my brother as a cartoucherie board as he's been asking me for one for years
> 
> Being leaf shaped means the small amount of twist and uneven thickness can just be part of the leaf shape design.
> I cut it out on my bandsaw and at this point it was pristine ie no cracks, but I decide to let it dry out a bit a bit more so again, I set it aside.
> 
> A couple of weeks back I started shaping the sides using spokeshaves and a block plane.
> Planing the flatter sides was impossible as it was not flat but the bandsaw tooth marks were easily removed with a belt sander with 120g belt.
> Then I use an ROS 180 and then 240.
> At this point I could see some short hairline cracks which I filled with epoxy.
> 
> Last week I was handling some nitric acid in the shed and I had gloves on, but as I walked past the almost completely sanded board I touched it with a glove and there must have been a tiny drop of acid on the glove because a match head sized black spot quickly developed. I raced over to the sink and grabbed the emergency bucket of water I keep partially filled and used the water to dilute the acid. At first this spread the black spot even further but it stopped at about the size of a 5c piece and later when the board had dried it more or less sanded out but ( but I can still see it!)- the two people I have shown the board to have not been able to find it.
> 
> So far it's had one coat of Liberon oil which when dry was cut back with a used 240g ROS pad, and then another coat of oil.
> I'm really pleased with the way the Liberon has not at all darkened the timber colour.
> I'm not going to do more than another couple of coats of oil as I don't especially want it to be super glossy and neither do I want it to be super pristine .
> It is after all, just a sort of a large "cutting board".
> View attachment 996298
> 
> 
> For a quirky feature I have left the end of the leaf stem untouched so it shows the chainsaw marks and white latex paint use to seal the end of the log.
> View attachment 996301
> 
> 
> I've given it some "feet" turned out of some of the waste timber from around the leaf shape.
> This will make it easier to pick up and carry.
> View attachment 996300
> 
> 
> Here's a grain close up.
> The acid spot is still visible DANG! I hate that.
> View attachment 996302


Beautiful wood and project. I wish I could get some for myself. If you're routinely using acid, it's a good idea to have a saturated solution of bicarb around. It would have converted the Nitric Acid to a salt which would have been more water soluble, less reactive with the wood and easier to remove. I know, hindsight.


----------



## BobL

djg james said:


> Beautiful wood and project. I wish I could get some for myself. If you're routinely using acid, it's a good idea to have a saturated solution of bicarb around. It would have converted the Nitric Acid to a salt which would have been more water soluble, less reactive with the wood and easier to remove. I know, hindsight.



Thanks. I do keep about a gallon of saturate Sodium carbonate solution in a large plastic container but it was in a cupboard and I figured being such a small amount. a quick rapid dilution with water would be more than enough. I worked with concentrated acids in labs for most of my working life (purification and distillation of acids for 30 years) and that's what we always did when we got an acid burns or small spills. We did use neutraliser when disposing of waste acid or on larger spills.


----------



## djg james

Sorry, I didn't mean to tell you something you already knew.


----------



## BobL

djg james said:


> Sorry, I didn't mean to tell you something you already knew.


No problem - there were probably others reading this that may have learned something.  so that has to be a useful thing.

I keep a half full bucket of water in my shop sink for when things go wrong when dealing with hot metal. I have 3 fire extinguishers (2 powder and one CO2) an a fire blanket but some times a half bucket of water is enough for a small fire and makes way less mess.


----------



## BobL

This is an offcut from a Marri (Eucalyptus) log I milled ~14 years ago. 
It was hanging around my shop buried under a pile of offcuts.
Filling all the tiny cracks with epoxy was a bit of PITA but it was well worth it.
Its going to be a cheeseboard present for a good friend of ours.


----------



## SawmillMan

BobL said:


> This is an offcut from a Marri (Eucalyptus) log I milled ~14 years ago.
> It was hanging around my shop buried under a pile of offcuts.
> Filling all the tiny cracks with epoxy was a bit of PITA but it was well worth it.
> Its going to be a cheeseboard present for a good friend of ours.
> View attachment 997658
> View attachment 997659


Nice use for an old cutoff and very kind of you.

The top photo is similar in color to a freshly sawn Osage Orange, a very hard, heavy wood. Is Eucalyptus similar?


----------



## SS396driver

I think I posted the end results on another thread but here’s the stakesides on the truck


----------



## BobL

SawmillMan said:


> Nice use for an old cutoff and very kind of you.


Thanks


SawmillMan said:


> The top photo is similar in color to a freshly sawn Osage Orange, a very hard, heavy wood. Is Eucalyptus similar?


There are over 800 species of Eucalyptus tree in Australia. The timber from Eucalyptus tree ranges in colour from "off white" to "deep chocolate brown" and many are deep red-brown. I terms of green hardness they range from about "oak like" to about twice that of dry Osage Orange. That block is Eucalyptus Callophya, which has the common name of Marri. It's on the softer side for a Eucalyptus species. There are many interesting features about Marri but my fave is freshly cut wood from a young tree smells like Corona beer. Old trees have lots of resin rings and pockets and smell very musty.

This is s shot of milling the Marri from which the block above came. "Flame or curl" as exhibited in parts of this tree is not very common and cannot be seen from outside the tree so when you strike it, its a double bonus. Also shown circled in black is a red resin pocket - not uncommon in small/young trees but very common in older trees.



I used the resin to mock up this photo to send to my BIL (the one who helps me make the BIL mill). He's always sending me photos of his surgical procedures, like the full length zipper staples he got from a back operation, so I thought it was time to pay him back. Were always exchange gory photos.


----------



## SawmillMan

BobL said:


> Thanks
> 
> There are over 800 species of Eucalyptus tree in Australia. The timber from Eucalyptus tree ranges in colour from "off white" to "deep chocolate brown" and many are deep red-brown. I terms of green hardness they range from about "oak like" to about twice that of dry Osage Orange. That block is Eucalyptus Callophya, which has the common name of Marri. It's on the softer side for a Eucalyptus species. There are many interesting features about Marri but my fave is freshly cut wood from a young tree smells like Corona beer. Old trees have lots of resin rings and pockets and smell very musty.
> 
> This is s shot of milling the Marri from which the block above came. "Flame or curl" as exhibited in parts of this tree is not very common and cannot be seen from outside the tree so when you strike it, its a double bonus. Also shown circled in black is a red resin pocket - not uncommon in small/young trees but very common in older trees.
> View attachment 997813
> 
> 
> I used the resin to mock up this photo to send to my BIL (the one who helps me make the BIL mill). He's always sending me photos of his surgical procedures, like the full length zipper staples he got from a back operation, so I thought it was time to pay him back. Were always exchange gory photos.
> View attachment 997814


Great information! Thanks. Be careful there!!!


----------



## BobL

I have a number of friends and relatives who are into cooking so every now and then I raid the scaps pile and make these for birthday or just cos presents etc.
In case you don't know that tapered cylinder is a type of rolling pin, sometimes called a French rolling pin.
The wood is Pistachio and its surprising dense.
The spoons are made from face cuts cut out want a bandsaw and further shaped using a belt sander and an Arbortec mini carver.


----------



## SawmillMan

This is a really straightforward method for hanging floating shelves. I use it for hanging mantels as well.






The carcass is made of red oak with a continuous grain at the corners (cut from one board). Unnecessary, but fun. It could be made from oak plywood as well.




The shelf/mantel is hollow except for a few support members spaced appropriately. Also, these members do NOT traverse the full depth of the shelf. This allows the shelf support to be inset into the shelf carcass. Study the photo showing the back view.


The shelf support mechanism can be constructed of 3/4” material typically. I use poplar quite often as it is light and sufficiently strong.




Support arms should be cut 1/4” less than the depth of the opening in the shelf. This allows for easy installation and also the ability to place shims on the self supports in the event the shelf needs to be leveled. Arms are attached using pocket holes.

If a shim is required, use masking tape/blue painters tape to affix the shim.

The beauty of this method is that shelf supports can be constructed and placed on the wall easily by attaching the shelf support mechanism to studs/nailers with appropriate length screws.

This is our shelf…we can do anything we want to with it.

Once the shelf support is installed, slide the shelf on, check for level and adjust as necessary. Note: the shelf support mechanism should not be as long as the opening in the shelf to allow lateral adjustment.

A single screw can hold the shelf to the shelf support by screwing through the shelf bottom into a shelf support arm.




Enjoy creating your floating shelves without being restricted by various floating shelf mechanisms.


----------



## BobL

Hardly "wood work", but I thought the North American forum members would like to see this anyway. My wife is into woollen sculptures and this is her latest creation. She asked me for a piece of wood with some bark on it to act as a base. What would have been sweet would have been maybe a piece of mesquite but the best I could come up with was this bit of Olive.


----------

