# Red Sunset Trunk



## Jace (Jul 24, 2011)

Not sure exactly whats going on here.
I dont believe it is an old wound, but Im not for certain. Anywho, it seems to be girdling aroound the trunk. I had another tree(Southern magnolia) about the same age do the same thing. Freeze and thaw cracks? Some cracks are vertical, I believe showing swelling of the trunk faster than what the outer layer(phloem?) is able to keep up with thereby cracking...


This is my own tree, andI planted it around 4 years ago ... 

I very much do not want to lose it...


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## Jace (Jul 24, 2011)

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## Jace (Jul 24, 2011)

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## jamied (Jul 25, 2011)

It appears to be planted too deep.

See photos here of a proper root flare vs being too deep:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=176041

Start with getting the root collar dug out.

Jamie
Neenah, WI


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## Jace (Jul 26, 2011)

It only appears that way. It is not tho, just has mulch around it and theres not much of a Tapering out flare b4 going into the root area. 
Not the problem.


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## jamied (Jul 26, 2011)

Jace said:


> It only appears that way. It is not tho, just has mulch around it and theres not much of a Tapering out flare b4 going into the root area.
> Not the problem.


 
Is the flare below grade as it appears to be in the photo? I'd expect to see a little visiable flare by that size tree.

The top of the roots near the trunk should be at grade. 

Can you scoop out 2" of mulch a few inches out from the trunk and see the main roots from the trunk?

I suspect it was damaged at some point, (might be animal damage) maybe made worse over the winter. You could use a loose tree protector over it to keep critters away.

If there is loose bark you can cut it off with a sharp knife.

Is the tree having other problems?

Jamie
Neenah, WI


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## Urban Forester (Jul 26, 2011)

Note football shaped area above and another (more disfigured) where bark splits have occured... Target canker (possibly nectria) very common in Red Maple. A young tree with excessive mulch over sensitive root zone would create a situation known as anoxia, a lack of oxygen in the feeder root system, this increased ambient stress levels, reducing the trees defense systems (which is the first thing a tree shuts down when in stress). The "weakness" combined with a frost crack or sun scald split allowed entry of the fungus. Chemical control is non-existant. Remove the mulch volcano, including any up against basal crown of the tree. ATTEMPT to re-invigorate the bio-mass of feeders roots by soil injecting organic elements (Growth Products Essential 1-0-1) and PHC Inc. Compete Plus at labeled rates. In other words reduce stress! Establish proper cultural practices with the client, and then keep your fingers crossed. Trees can live with target cankers for years, it all depends on how much callus tissue forms in response to the "invader" the more the tree produces the more likely the tree will be girdled.


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## Jace (Jul 28, 2011)

The first photo is a better picture than the others(I think), I tore away the dead bark thereby better revealing the girdling that is taking place.

The 2nd photo shows the top roots at the root flare and soil level. Roots are white- healthy looking.
I'm a little concerned with the one root, that maybe when/if the tree grows larger it may girdle the trunk because of the trunk increasing in size(if it lives that long, that is!).


So, basically, asside from adding the GPE 1-0-1, there not much I can do, other than what I've already beeen doing...? 
(BTW-I dont mound up mulch next to the trunk base, and its about 2-3" thick out to the edge)


I was wondering if a systemic fungicide (like clearys 3336), or a systemic bacteriacide, any labeled for...?- would be of any benefit..??


Thought I'd spray a lttle insecticide like permethrin on the localized trunk wound area every few weeks to keep the "bugs" out.

Im thinking maybe its a Eutypella Canker. Regardless, it is some type of canker IYO's right?

I reeeeely dont wanna lose this tree.

I agree Jamied, that it was likely damaged at some point, maybe even a very small thing like removing a stress sucker at some point could probably even allow introduction of the canker producing fungal spores...

Any other thoughts?
U. F.?


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## jamied (Jul 28, 2011)

Jace said:


> The 2nd photo shows the top roots at the root flare.
> I'm a little concerned with the one root, that maybe when/if the tree grows larger it may girdle the trunk because of the trunk increasing in size(if it lives that long, that is!).
> 
> 
> ...


 
I'll just say that I would not treat with any chemical or bug spray without having a really good idea of what I was treating and knowing that I was using the proper product. -- I re-read the other post and urban forester did say there is no chemical control for this problem. So then your left with things that support the trees health; fixing any root problems, a nutrient solution like urban forester suggested and possibly a product called cambistat.

It does look like at least that one root is going to be a problem and need to come out. In the second photo, there is a larger root to the left that I just can't see well enough to say if it is growing in a poor direction that may girdddle the tree or not. It might be. I'd consider removing at least the one smaller root, and maybe the larger one as well if it is going to girddle the tree. The little one I would probably do now, If that larger one has to go, I would think about doing that in the early spring.

This tree would likely benefit from a growth regulator called Cambistat, but it is likely more expensive than what you would be willing to spend on this tree. It's about $250 for a 2 liter bottle, which would do far more than just this little tree. It basically halts top growth and allows the tree to grow it's root system for a period of about 3 years, which can give the tree a chance to heal and strengthen it's self.

You could always consider a larger mulch ring, trees will benefit for about as larger of a mulch area as your willing to give. The trees roots will extend far beyond the dripline. So the roots also get any chemicals that you put on the lawn, which may or may not be directly harmful, but certainly don't help the tree. 

The treatments have the potential to get quite expensive with no guarantee of saving the tree. I might consider planting a new tree nearby as a eventual replacement and letting it grow for a few years, and not putting any expensive treatment into this tree. 

Jamie


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## Jace (Jul 28, 2011)

jamied said:


> I'll just say that I would not treat with any chemical or bug spray without having a really good idea of what I was treating and knowing that I was using the proper product. -- I re-read the other post and urban forester did say there is no chemical control for this problem. So then your left with things that support the trees health; fixing any root problems, a nutrient solution like urban forester suggested and possibly a product called cambistat.
> 
> It does look like at least that one root is going to be a problem and need to come out. In the second photo, there is a larger root to the left that I just can't see well enough to say if it is growing in a poor direction that may girdddle the tree or not. It might be. I'd consider removing at least the one smaller root, and maybe the larger one as well if it is going to girddle the tree. The little one I would probably do now, If that larger one has to go, I would think about doing that in the early spring.
> 
> ...


 


My thinking on the permethrin (only)on the localized wound was, to keep out any ants or borrers(borrer & ant labeled)( I found a few-2-3 ants while digging out the dead bark tissue. I realize they primarily munch on the dead wood and not the live, but I dont want to chance it).
And...my thinking was, If I use wrap to keep borrers and ants out, it'll hold in moisture worsening fungis spore spread. If I use a lose hard material, it will keep out larger pests like rabbits, but not keep out borrers. That is why I thot to use a very small amount, enough to spray directly on the canker keeping insect pests from invading a stressed tree/damaged area not having protective bark. Another option, maybe the best one- I suppose, would be to wrap only one breathable layer of think black wrap I have(for trees), that will keep out wood chewing/boring pests, as well as not hold in any moisture.


The 2nd root I think will be fine. I really dont believe the first root is hurting anything yet at this point in time, so wouldnt it be a little better to remove it in the dormancy rather than now, mid summer, 100+ degrees...?


I'm still gonna try to find something systemic labeled to treat this type of diease, tho I'll most likely not find a thing.... I would just think if its(eutypella camnker of maple -or other canker maybe) caused by fungal pathogen, then fungicide would help.....but maybe not.


thanks for the assistance..


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## Jace (Jul 28, 2011)

Found this little dead adult borrer hid in the dead tissue of the cankered area (in the photo). Had to dig him out falling apart into pieces. He has an emerald colored thorax(I think like the EAB), but his 2 wings were a littler darker than emerald green. He's about 5/8" long. I dont know what he is. I suppose chances are slim hes a EAB......hiding out in a maple....
I dont suppose he had anything to do with this damage...


cant get any decent pictures to download


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## jamied (Jul 28, 2011)




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## Jace (Jul 28, 2011)

yep, I looked at those earlier, and none of them even come close to this one I found, except the first 3. EAB and bronce birch borrer, and chestnut borrer.

I dont think hes the chestnut borrer, but I think hes probably the bronze birch borrer...maybe..

Im in MO, I think the EAB only been found/discovered EAB in the SE- boothill only
I dont think thats what he is..


trying to post a better close up photo...


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## Jace (Jul 28, 2011)

Photo taken thru a magnifiying glass...

a little better...no, a LOT better it can be zoomed in on


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## jamied (Jul 28, 2011)

Jace said:


> Photo taken thru a magnifiying glass...
> 
> a little better...no, a LOT better it can be zoomed in on


 
I see why you think it looks like EAB. Hopefully someone with some more bug ID experience can weight in as to what bug it is.

Jamie


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## PTI (Jul 31, 2011)

I've had fathead apple tree borers cause similar injuries in a nursery production setting in NC. I don't know how far north they range.


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