# Husqvarna 340/345/350 Jonsered 2141/2145/2150 Information



## moody (Jun 1, 2013)

I've seen plenty of people ask questions in the past about this platform. This thread is a place we can put our collective knowledge to better help those in need. 

Common issues I've personally seen:

Plastic boot clamps break causing the saw to run lean and in cases score the p&c.

Easy fix/way to avoid: Buy the metal clamp style, inexpensive way to get added protection.

Loose muffler bolts causing the case or top plastic to be damaged.

Ways to fix/avoid:
Run the saw for a couple minutes shut it down, then snug the bolts. This in most cases will work.

If problems continue use a small amount of loctite. Many kinds of loctite available I've used the red kind with success.

Parts compatible swaps:

On this platform there are plastic handles and metal. These can be swapped back and forth with no modifications. This goes with any and all parts. If you wish to upgrade/replace the top end on your 340/2141 or 345/2145 to the 350/2150 all you need is the riser block from a 350/2150. No modifications are needed. Please note there are 2 top ends that belong to the 350/2150. Open port is 49cc and closed is 51.7. 

These saws are quite capable,light and take well to modifications. The 353 and 346 top ends can be replacement options for this platform. And if you're from Iowa the 359 top end can be used with lots of work.:msp_biggrin: Carb swaps are simple they come with Zama and Walbro's stock. You can use intake boots from 357/359's along with other models. 

I hope this information helps someone. Add things if you know anything I missed.


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## AuerX (Jun 1, 2013)

Great Info, Thanks!

I have a 340 that has been a great saw for many years but recently its been acting up a bit, I'll check the things you mentioned before I move on to other things.

You would'nt know the part # for the Riser for a 350 conversion?


Eric


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## SawTroll (Jun 1, 2013)

Finnman said:


> Great Info, Thanks!
> 
> I have a 340 that has been a great saw for many years but recently its been acting up a bit, I'll check the things you mentioned before I move on to other things.
> 
> ...



You can find a wide selection of part lists on the US (+ some other ones) Husky web-site, and at least on the Canadian Jonsered web-site.


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## moody (Jun 1, 2013)

Finnman said:


> Great Info, Thanks!
> 
> I have a 340 that has been a great saw for many years but recently its been acting up a bit, I'll check the things you mentioned before I move on to other things.
> 
> ...



I'd list them but I'm currently at the zoo. ST can fix you up.


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## SawTroll (Jun 1, 2013)

moody said:


> I'd list them but I'm currently at the zoo. ST can fix you up.



537 32 40-01, but he may need some different bolts as well - I don't really remember the details....


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## moody (Jun 1, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> 537 32 40-01, but he may need some different bolts as well - I don't really remember the details....



He needs the shorter 346 head bolts.


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## old 040 (Jun 1, 2013)

moody said:


> I've seen plenty of people ask questions in the past about this platform. This thread is a place we can put our collective knowledge to better help those in need.
> 
> Common issues I've personally seen:
> 
> ...





so the 2150's that say 52cc on the top cover are closed port?...............just wanted to be sure


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## moody (Jun 1, 2013)

old 040 said:


> so the 2150's that say 52cc on the top cover are closed port?...............just wanted to be sure



Epa closed port yes sir. 51.7 cc really.


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## moody (Jun 1, 2013)

Finnman said:


> Great Info, Thanks!
> 
> I have a 340 that has been a great saw for many years but recently its been acting up a bit, I'll check the things you mentioned before I move on to other things.
> 
> ...



No problem. Its what we're here for. I'll post some parts numbers up when I get home.


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## SawTroll (Jun 1, 2013)

old 040 said:


> so the 2150's that say 52cc on the top cover are closed port?...............just wanted to be sure



Yes, it is the 353/2152 cylinder, with a "dished" piston, to take the power output down a little (less compression).


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## elanjoe (Jun 1, 2013)

The muffler bolts from a 288 xp with a small drill and tap job take care of the muffler bolt problem. I have done two in the last month, one on a brand new A/M topend for a 2150 , and one on a 353 that had lost a bolt but it had not ruined the cylinder yet. both saws didn't see thread locker and they are still as tight as the day they were torqued.


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## moody (Jun 1, 2013)

*Helpful part numbers*

350 riser block 503 88 59 01
Metal handle 503 90 93-01
346 head bolts 725 53 33-55
359 hda 199 complete kit 537 25 13-07


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## moody (Jun 1, 2013)

elanjoe said:


> The muffler bolts from a 288 xp with a small drill and tap job take care of the muffler bolt problem. I have done two in the last month, one on a brand new A/M topend for a 2150 , and one on a 353 that had lost a bolt but it had not ruined the cylinder yet. both saws didn't see thread locker and they are still as tight as the day they were torqued.



It's obviously best to avoid thread locker. Great option here. I've used heat resistant gasket sealer but that was because my tap and dye set was misplaced.


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## elanjoe (Jun 1, 2013)

moody said:


> I've used heat resistant gasket sealer but that was because my tap and dye set was misplaced.




Don't you love it when that happens !


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## moody (Jun 1, 2013)

elanjoe said:


> Don't you love it when that happens !



I started this thread because most people don't realize the potential of this platform. It's an outstanding design that can be made into a lasting firewood saw.


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## elanjoe (Jun 1, 2013)

I personally love the platform , I don't have a problem with it. others here don't, oh well . it's their loss.


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## psuiewalsh (Jun 1, 2013)

I have had two where the bolts backed off or fell out of the bottom of the saw. It caused a air leak.


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## SawTroll (Jun 1, 2013)

psuiewalsh said:


> I have had two where the bolts backed off or fell out of the bottom of the saw. It caused a air leak.



Sorry about that, but it was caused by lack of normal maintenace.


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## SawTroll (Jun 1, 2013)

elanjoe said:


> I personally love the platform , I don't have a problem with it. others here don't, oh well . it's their loss.



Those saws likely are the best "homeowner class" chainsaws ever made!


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## moody (Jun 1, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> Those saws likely are the best "homeowner class" chainsaws ever made! :msp_wink:



I'd be happy to run one over a 290 or any other home owner saw of any brand.


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## lefturnfreek (Jun 1, 2013)

I'm joining the Husky 350 testing crew and so far it's putting wood in the truck, not being run over by it.


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## old 040 (Jun 2, 2013)

moody said:


> Epa closed port yes sir. 51.7 cc really.



reason i asked is, i have another top cover that lists both the 2149/2150 at 49cc.............was there a 2149?...................well, i did a search on the 2149, yes there was one, but it's not built on the same platform as the 2141/2145/2150, but i'm still wondering why the top cover i have lists these two saws together (2149/2150)


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## old 040 (Jun 2, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> Those saws likely are the best "homeowner class" chainsaws ever made! :msp_wink:



i really like these saws as well, although i've only owned the husky 350 and the j-reds 2150's, i recently sold the husky, but have two very nice 2150's.............at least with the 2150's or the husky 350, one only need's the p/c for top end replacement, a little less work involved, i'll get some pics up of my 2150's when the sun pops out...............:msp_biggrin:


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## mainewoods (Jun 2, 2013)

This is exactly the type of thread that made this site so famous. Countless people have been drawn here to learn from the guys who have experience. We can't all possibly have knowledge of every scenario presented here on AB. But collectively we can all obtain the answers we seek. You all deserve our gratitude for your time and patience.


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## spike60 (Jun 2, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> 537 32 40-01, but he may need some different bolts as well - I don't really remember the details....




Correct, and there are a few other hardware differences as well. (and some mis-information so far in this thread)

First thing to be aware of is that all early saws in this family used a course thread for both the cylinder and bottom riser block bolts. Change was 2002/2003 to the finer thread bolts. This was not just on 350's but on the early metal case saws, (346/351/2149) as well. So obviously, mixing hardware can wreck some existing threads. 

When adding the riser block to a 340/345/2141/2145 you cannot use the bottom bolts that originally held those cylinders on because they are longer than the bolts that are used for the intake block. 

The flange on the base of a 346 cylinder is thinner than that on the 351/353, (early or late 350) cylinders. Therefore you need to remove about .050 from the cylinder bolts to prevent them from bottoming out. 

Either of the "350" cylinders respond real good to ditching the base gasket, (about a 25psi bump), and a muffler mod. (certainly want to have the flat top piston in the "353" cylinder). Such a set up makes a real good runner that is very close to any 346. Either 350 jug works great and it's a waste to toss away a cylinder that's in good shape and buy a 346 top end.


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

old 040 said:


> reason i asked is, i have another top cover that lists both the 2149/2150 at 49cc.............was there a 2149?...................well, i did a search on the 2149, yes there was one, but it's not built on the same platform as the 2141/2145/2150, but i'm still wondering why the top cover i have lists these two saws together (2149/2150)



2149 is the open port version and the 2150 is the closed port correct.


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

spike60 said:


> Correct, and there are a few other hardware differences as well. (and some mis-information so far in this thread)
> 
> First thing to be aware of is that all early saws in this family used a course thread for both the cylinder and bottom riser block bolts. Change was 2002/2003 to the finer thread bolts. This was not just on 350's but on the early metal case saws, (346/351/2149) as well. So obviously, mixing hardware can wreck some existing threads.
> 
> ...



Thanks for filling in the missing details. As I said I'm sure I missed things that were important.


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## old 040 (Jun 2, 2013)

here's my two 2150's.......................View attachment 298258
View attachment 298259
View attachment 298260
.................also, isn't the 2149 the same as the husky 353?...............040


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

old 040 said:


> here's my two 2150's.......................View attachment 298258
> View attachment 298259
> View attachment 298260
> .................also, isn't the 2149 the same as the husky 353?...............040



2150 has the same cylinder has the 353. The 2149 is 1mm smaller bore size and open port.The 2152 is the 353's red copy.


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## old 040 (Jun 2, 2013)

moody said:


> 2150 has the same cylinder has the 353. The 2149 is 1mm smaller bore size and open port.



what i'm trying to say is, the 2149 is built like 353, not a husky 350 or the j-red 2150, which is why i'm wondering why these two saws are listed together on my top cover, the cover is not original to the saw (i replaced the original because of some damage that it had), it had the 52cc/2150 decal on the original cover, i just find it odd that these two saws are listed on the same decal..................040


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## psuiewalsh (Jun 2, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> Sorry about that, but it was caused by lack of normal maintenace.



They were not my saws, but I would not consider pulling the fuel tank off to torque bolts normal maintenance either.


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

old 040 said:


> what i'm trying to say is, the 2149 is built like 353, not a husky 350 or the j-red 2150, which is why i'm wondering why these two saws are listed together on my top cover, the cover is not original to the saw (i replaced the original because of some damage that it had), it had the 52cc/2150 decal on the original cover, i just find it odd that these two saws are listed on the same decal..................040



Can you post a picture? It'll be easier for me to see what you're talking about.


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## old 040 (Jun 2, 2013)

moody said:


> Can you post a picture? It'll be easier for me to see what you're talking about.



i've tried three times to get a good pic, but my cheap azz camera refuses to give a clear shot, anyway, what it says is 2149/2150 49cc.......................that's all you would have seen anyways.....................040


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## AuerX (Jun 2, 2013)

So if I was to "Upgrade" my 340 this winter would a kit like this make sense?
Husqvarna 340 345 346 350 353 big bore cylinder and piston assembly with gaskets

Thanks

Eric


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

old 040 said:


> i've tried three times to get a good pic, but my cheap azz camera refuses to give a clear shot, anyway, what it says is 2149/2150 49cc.......................that's all you would have seen anyways.....................040



It's the open port 49 cc top end. Your bore size should be 44mm. All the sticker means I'm guessing is that there was an over lap between the two models and the parts do swap. The epa closed port is a 45mm bore size. I'm probably not making any sense at all. I'll try to find some more information on this for you as I'm not as familiar with the 2149.


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

Finnman said:


> So if I was to "Upgrade" my 340 this winter would a kit like this make sense?
> Husqvarna 340 345 346 350 353 big bore cylinder and piston assembly with gaskets
> 
> Thanks
> ...



Why do that when our sponsor watsonr can help out cheaper and faster with a better product? Randy is a great guy he will help you out.
http://www.weedeaterman.com/product_p/h30340-b.htm


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## AuerX (Jun 2, 2013)

moody said:


> Why do that when our sponsor watsonr can help out cheaper and faster with a better product? Randy is a great guy he will help you out.
> Husqvarna 340 345



I googled a kit and thats what I found.

I'll check out Watson.

I just wanted to know if a kit like that makes sense or if I should look for something else.

Eric


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

Finnman said:


> I googled a kit and thats what I found.
> 
> I'll check out Watson.
> 
> ...



I'd honestly go with that kit or the 44.3 346 kit. I'll be doing a thread soon hopefully on a build I'm doing for someone. It's going to be a 346 44.3 kit from Randy. Saw should be here in the middle of the week.


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## old 040 (Jun 2, 2013)

moody said:


> It's the open port 49 cc top end. Your bore size should be 44mm. All the sticker means I'm guessing is that there was an over lap between the two models and the parts do swap. The epa closed port is a 45mm bore size. I'm probably not making any sense at all. I'll try to find some more information on this for you as I'm not as familiar with the 2149.



no, your making sense, it's the decal that doesn't, again, this cover with that decal was not the original to the saw and it should be the 52cc version saw, although when i had the cover off it had "44" marked in blue on the top of the cylinder, so i'm guessing that even if you've got a 52cc decal, your saw may not be the 51.7cc saw.........................


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

old 040 said:


> no, your making sense, it's the decal that doesn't, again, this cover with that decal was not the original to the saw and it should be the 52cc version saw, although when i had the cover off it had "44" marked in blue, so i'm guessing the even if you've got a 52cc decal, your saw may not be the 51.7cc saw.........................



I'd say someone has made a swap somewhere. The 51.7 makes less power stock but most don't realize that's related to the dished piston. The 49.7 kit has a flat top and open ports but still performed better IMHO. If a guy wants a cheap upgrade to a 51.7 saw delete base gasket add a 353 piston and muffler mod. These mods will make a big difference.


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## AuerX (Jun 2, 2013)

moody said:


> I'd honestly go with that kit or the 44.3 346 kit. I'll be doing a thread soon hopefully on a build I'm doing for someone. It's going to be a 346 44.3 kit from Randy. Saw should be here in the middle of the week.



Looking forward to that.

You have a link to that kit please?

Thanks

Eric


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

Finnman said:


> Looking forward to that.
> 
> You have a link to that kit please?
> 
> ...



Here's the link
#1 Recommeded Quad Intake Closed Port Husqvarna 346 XP cylinder and piston assembly 44.3mm


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## elanjoe (Jun 2, 2013)

my 2150 was 45mm closed port and said 52 cc on the top cover if that helps.


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## cmarti (Jun 2, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> Those saws likely are the best "homeowner class" chainsaws ever made! :msp_wink:



I do not have the disdain for Stihl homeowner saws as you. However, at a group cut this spring my friend had me try his stock 350. I was very impressed. It was way more than I expected for a homeowner saw with .325. New experiences is how we learn.:msp_biggrin:

The only thing that slowed it down in 12-20" wood was jaming the drive and bar sprocket with chips from the green wood. Is this common? We were using new chain, and cleaning the bar with a carpet knife.


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

elanjoe said:


> my 2150 was 45mm closed port and said 52 cc on the top cover if that helps.



You like it?


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

cmarti said:


> I do not have the disdain for Stihl homeowner saws as you. However, at a group cut this spring my friend had me try his stock 350. I was very impressed. It was way more than I expected for a homeowner saw with .325. New experiences is how we learn.:msp_biggrin:
> 
> The only thing that slowed it down in 12-20" wood was jaming the drive and bar sprocket with chips from the green wood. Is this common? We were using new chain, and cleaning the bar with a carpet knife.



It's clogging the clutch or sprocket? If it's the sprocket your chain may have been a smidge loose.


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## Vibes (Jun 2, 2013)

Great thread and thanks for the reminder about replaceing the carb boot clamp. Is the replacement part from a 346 or do you just use a standard hose type clamp from an auto parts store?

Also on the 350 muffler bolt problem, I safety wired my friends Husky 350. He had a drill press so it was easy.


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

Vibes said:


> Great thread and thanks for the reminder about replaceing the carb boot clamp. Is the replacement part from a 346 or do you just use a standard hose type clamp from an auto parts store?
> 
> Also on the 350 muffler bolt problem, I safety wired my friends Husky 350. He had a drill press so it was easy.



There are metal clamps used on most professional saws. You can find one that works at your local dealer.

And thank you. I'm not the most knowledgeable person here but I'm trying to help.


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## ChainFinn (Jun 2, 2013)

I have an OE 346xp´s 42mm cylinder in my 2150, without cylinder gasket, as well as gutted muffler with bigger outlet, and a clutch from 346 with 8 pin sprocket. Its not a beauty but it sure beats the stock 2150, as well as gasketless muff-modded stock cylinder 2150. All i had to do...kind of....was to grind a deeper groove, to the cylinder sleeves outer wall to make sure the impulse goes to the carb, as in my stock 2150, the pulse line is in inner wall of cylinder, combination of groove and drilled hole unlike in 346 jug.


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## SawTroll (Jun 2, 2013)

moody said:


> It's the open port 49 cc top end. Your bore size should be 44mm. All the sticker means I'm guessing is that there was an over lap between the two models and the parts do swap. The epa closed port is a 45mm bore size. I'm probably not making any sense at all. I'll try to find some more information on this for you as I'm not as familiar with the 2149.



The 2149 is the Husky 351 - with the magnesium case of the 346xp, but the same open port 44mm/49.4cc top end as the non-EPA 350/2150. 

The 351/2149 was replaced by the 353/2152 after a few years.


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

ChainFinn said:


> I have an OE 346xp´s 42mm cylinder in my 2150, without cylinder gasket, as well as gutted muffler with bigger outlet, and a clutch from 346 with 8 pin sprocket. Its not a beauty but it sure beats the stock 2150, as well as gasketless muff-modded stock cylinder 2150. All i had to do...kind of....was to grind a deeper groove, to the cylinder sleeves outer wall to make sure the impulse goes to the carb, as in my stock 2150, the pulse line is in inner wall of cylinder, combination of groove and drilled hole unlike in 346 jug.



Saw your thread about that. That's the first time I've seen the OE swap because of giving up displacement. Have a video yet? Saw looks good hope we can see it run


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## SawTroll (Jun 2, 2013)

cmarti said:


> .....
> 
> The only thing that slowed it down in 12-20" wood was jaming the drive and bar sprocket with chips from the green wood. Is this common? We were using new chain, and cleaning the bar with a carpet knife.



Not very common, but it surely can happen, as with all saws.


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## SawTroll (Jun 2, 2013)

psuiewalsh said:


> They were not my saws, but I would not consider pulling the fuel tank off to torque bolts normal maintenance either.


 Why pulling the tank?

Checking the muffler bolts *is* normal maintenance - as listed in the operator manual.


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## SawTroll (Jun 2, 2013)

spike60 said:


> .... early metal case saws, (346/351/2149) as well. So obviously, mixing hardware can wreck some existing threads.
> 
> ....



You forgot the 2147! :msp_biggrin:


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## ChainFinn (Jun 2, 2013)

moody said:


> Saw your thread about that. That's the first time I've seen the OE swap because of giving up displacement. Have a video yet? Saw looks good hope we can see it run




Video ?

Well if you mean that its uncommon to switch a smaller jug in to place of bigger, well thats how it all went. As 2150 has an open port and (IMO) different caharcter due to port shapes/sizes and timings, i think it was worth loosing the displacement, as the saw turned in to more raw this way, more high end power than 2150. Why i put an 346OE, was simply because it was laying on the shelf without any use :msp_rolleyes:


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## ChainFinn (Jun 2, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> The 2149 is the Husky 351 - with the magnesium case of the 346xp, but the same open port 44mm/49.4cc top end as the non-EPA 350/2150.
> 
> The 351/2149 was replaced by the 353/2152 after a few years.



And then the NE 346XP would be pretty much equal to 2153.


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

ChainFinn said:


> Video ?
> 
> Well if you mean that its uncommon to switch a smaller jug in to place of bigger, well thats how it all went. As 2150 has an open port and (IMO) different caharcter due to port shapes/sizes and timings, i think it was worth loosing the displacement, as the saw turned in to more raw this way, more high end power than 2150. Why i put an 346OE, was simply because it was laying on the shelf without any use :msp_rolleyes:



I wasn't dogging you just said it was uncommon. I know the OE 346 runs better. Just asking to see how it turned out.


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## apn73 (Jun 2, 2013)

I've been reading along with this thread and am interested. I've been thinking about picking up 40cc saw and see that the 340/2141 is just that. I also noticed that all of the saws listed appear to be the same weight, is this the case? If I was to go this route, then it seems that the bigger would be the better, but then I get a saw that is getting to close to my MS 361 (59cc). What's a decent 2141 go for these days? Would I be better off going with the newer 2240?


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

apn73 said:


> I've been reading along with this thread and am interested. I've been thinking about picking up 40cc saw and see that the 340/2141 is just that. I also noticed that all of the saws listed appear to be the same weight, is this the case? If I was to go this route, then it seems that the bigger would be the better, but then I get a saw that is getting to close to my MS 361 (59cc). What's a decent 2141 go for these days? Would I be better off going with the newer 2240?



The 2240 replaced our 2238 and hasn't been bad but isn't the same design as these saws.


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## SawTroll (Jun 2, 2013)

apn73 said:


> I've been reading along with this thread and am interested. I've been thinking about picking up 40cc saw and see that the 340/2141 is just that. I also noticed that all of the saws listed appear to be the same weight, is this the case? If I was to go this route, then it seems that the bigger would be the better, but then I get a saw that is getting to close to my MS 361 (59cc). What's a decent 2141 go for these days? Would I be better off going with the newer 2240?



The 350 is a tad heavier than the 340 and 345 (metal handlebar) - but it is a very minor difference.

The 2240 is a smaller and lighter built saw, but also has less power than the 2141.


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## SawTroll (Jun 2, 2013)

ChainFinn said:


> And then the NE 346XP would be pretty much equal to 2153.



Other way around....:msp_wink:


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## psuiewalsh (Jun 2, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> Why pulling the tank?
> 
> Checking the muffler bolts *is* normal maintenance - as listed in the operator manual.



I was speaking of the 4 crank case bolts that fasten the cylinder to the engine cradle.


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

psuiewalsh said:


> I was speaking of the 4 crank case bolts that fasten the cylinder to the engine cradle.



That can be done without tank being removed. But it's not ideal for sure. No reason for fuss. So anyone have anything they can add? I know I haven't mentioned everything here.


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## spike60 (Jun 2, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> You forgot the 2147! :msp_biggrin:



No...............I didn't forget it, I _omitted_ it because it was never imported into the US by Tilton. :msp_tongue:

To clear up a wee bit of confusion some may still have on the 350/2150:

EARLY 350/2150 used the same open port piston and cylinder as the 351/2149.

LATER 350/2150 used the same cylinder as the 353/2152. But the plastic case saws used the dished piston vs the flat top piston used in the metal cased saws.

And of course, the "omitted", but not "forgotten" 2147 was the Jonsered version of the original 346. 

One other thing that could drive you nuts at some point: Early starters used a different starter spring and pulley than the later ones and they will not interchange. On the Huskys, this can be distinguished by the extra vertical ribs in the starter housing, but there is no visual difference on the Jonnys that I'm aware of. So, you can't just say "I need a spring for a 346" and be sure you are getting the correct one. 

Air filters also have an "early vs late" change on the metal case saws. The early saws used the same twist on filter as their plastic cousins, and the later saws used the clip on filter, and they also will not interchange. 

There are also differences in oil pumps and pump drive gears. And with them, there are corresponding differences in clutch drums, as the drum obviously is what is driving the pump gear. Some mixing may appear to fit initially, but will at some point tear up the drive gear. The 340/345 with the non-adjustable oiler uses a gear with a metal ring on it driving a plastic geared piston pump. (these parts are still used on the 445/450). There is no rim style drum that correctly fits this gear, but some guys will rack their brains trying to do this so they can get their project saw to run 3/8 or whatever. Plus the pump gears for the metal cased saws have a different depth than those on the plastic saws. I'm not trying to make this sound complicated, but my point here is that life is a lot easier if you just stick with whatever set up is on the saw to start with.


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## SawTroll (Jun 2, 2013)

You are doing very well Spike, and this thread is worth saving, for referance!


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

I agree some things are better left alone on these saws.


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## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> You are doing very well Spike, and this thread is worth saving, for referance!



Obviously he's added more to this thread than I could have. And its nice having him chime in. Sorry for not having more and better information up.


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## SawTroll (Jun 2, 2013)

moody said:


> Obviously he's added more to this thread than I could have. And its nice having him chime in. Sorry for not having more and better information up.



You did well as well, good idea for a thread!


----------



## moody (Jun 2, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> You did well as well, good idea for a thread!



I think informational threads would cut back on question threads. Im no expert but I know enough to be dangerous


----------



## AuerX (Jun 3, 2013)

Informational threads rock.


----------



## AuerX (Jun 3, 2013)

moody said:


> That can be done without tank being removed. But it's not ideal for sure. No reason for fuss. So anyone have anything they can add? I know I haven't mentioned everything here.



FWIW, The Non-Adjustable Oiler on the 340 can be replaced with the Adjustable oiler from the 350. At least I think so.
My 340 seems to have all the provisions for it including the notch in the bottom to access the oiler adjustment screw.

Now the inconveniently located front mounted chain tensioner on the 340....I do not know if there is a cure for that.....

Eric


----------



## old 040 (Jun 3, 2013)

anyone know if a clutch assembly from 357 would fit on the 340/345/350 saws?................:confused2:


----------



## ChainFinn (Jun 3, 2013)

moody said:


> I wasn't dogging you just said it was uncommon. I know the OE 346 runs better. Just asking to see how it turned out.



yeah i didnt take it like that either, i just wondered, what you meant, as sometimes i dont understand things correct, due to my language skills. So sorry.

Surely, 346 cyl equipped 2150 was far angrier, the only thing it might loose to stock 2150 jug, was possibly when felling trees. But felling small trees, limbing and removing branches, was quicker to do with 346 cylinder.


----------



## ChainFinn (Jun 3, 2013)

spike60 said:


> No...............I didn't forget it, I _omitted_ it because it was never imported into the US by Tilton. :msp_tongue:
> 
> 
> There are also differences in oil pumps and pump drive gears. And with them, there are corresponding differences in clutch drums, as the drum obviously is what is driving the pump gear. Some mixing may appear to fit initially, but will at some point tear up the drive gear. The 340/345 with the non-adjustable oiler uses a gear with a metal ring on it driving a plastic geared piston pump. (these parts are still used on the 445/450). There is no rim style drum that correctly fits this gear, but some guys will rack their brains trying to do this so they can get their project saw to run 3/8 or whatever. Plus the pump gears for the metal cased saws have a different depth than those on the plastic saws. I'm not trying to make this sound complicated, but my point here is that life is a lot easier if you just stick with whatever set up is on the saw to start with.



I had a clutch drum from oe346xp in my 2150, as i wanted to have 8 teeth chain sprocket, instead of 2150´s stock clutch drums fixed 7 teeth. The 346 has BIT different splines(?) driving the oil punp but it WILL work & fit. Not a perfect, gapless fit but my 2150 has been use by my buddy, as daily basis, for like....2 months now, and the oil pump still works like a clock.


----------



## mainewoods (Jun 3, 2013)

Informational threads like this one are exactly the kind of thing the average homeowner is looking for. Once they have digested the basic (and not so basic) info, they can ask much more informed questions. Knowing the workings of a chainsaw first should allow a homeowner to ask an intelligent question later. I hope there are more threads on the most common homeowner used saws to come. You are doing a great service to the "average Joe" and to guys who provide the answers.:msp_thumbup: ( I hate these symbols ,but you fellers deserve one)


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## moody (Jun 3, 2013)

Finnman said:


> FWIW, The Non-Adjustable Oiler on the 340 can be replaced with the Adjustable oiler from the 350. At least I think so.
> My 340 seems to have all the provisions for it including the notch in the bottom to access the oiler adjustment screw.
> 
> Now the inconveniently located front mounted chain tensioner on the 340....I do not know if there is a cure for that.....
> ...



They all share the same case. So if you put the time in you can make it adjustable.


----------



## moody (Jun 3, 2013)

old 040 said:


> anyone know if a clutch assembly from 357 would fit on the 340/345/350 saws?................:confused2:



Nope


----------



## apn73 (Jun 3, 2013)

I've been looking into these and I can't remember, what does the "S" stand for at the end of the model number of a Jonsered? Is there a reason to buy them or not to buy them when compared to standard models?

Thanks,

Adam.


----------



## SawTroll (Jun 3, 2013)

apn73 said:


> I've been looking into these and I can't remember, what does the "S" stand for at the end of the model number of a Jonsered? Is there a reason to buy them or not to buy them when compared to standard models?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Adam.



 An "S" doesn't make sense on a Jonsered, but a "C" means the saw has a catalytic muffler (that needs to be changed out)....


----------



## apn73 (Jun 3, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> An "S" doesn't make sense on a Jonsered, but a "C" means the saw has a catalytic muffler (that needs to be changed out)....


For instance, there is a current model available from Jonsered called the CS 2250 S, it's on the US website, there used to be a CS 2240 S. I'm looking at a 2141 S on craigslist.


----------



## SawTroll (Jun 3, 2013)

apn73 said:


> For instance, there is a current model available from Jonsered called the CS 2250 S, it's on the US website, there used to be a CS 2240 S. I'm looking at a 2141 S on craigslist.



OK, something I didn't know about then - maybe spring assisted start? If that is what it is, avoid it when possible - unless the operator really needs it!


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## apn73 (Jun 3, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> OK, something I didn't know about then - maybe spring assisted start? If that is what it is, avoid it when possible - unless the operator really needs it!


Is spin start the Husqvarna/Jonsered equivalent of the easy2start system? I was just on their website and that is what it appears.


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## moody (Jun 3, 2013)

apn73 said:


> Is spin start the Husqvarna/Jonsered equivalent of the easy2start system? I was just on their website and that is what it appears.



The s is the easy adjust bar & chain


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## SawTroll (Jun 4, 2013)

moody said:


> The s is the easy adjust bar & chain



OK, still something that you want to avoid.

As should be obvious by now, I haven't updated myself on the features of the newer breed of the red plastic cased saws....


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## spike60 (Jun 4, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> As should be obvious by now, I haven't updated myself on the features of the newer breed of the red plastic cased saws....




What is the world coming to? :msp_sad:


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## SawTroll (Jun 4, 2013)

apn73 said:


> Is spin start the Husqvarna/Jonsered equivalent of the easy2start system? I was just on their website and that is what it appears.



No, it is simply the decomp valve, and has nothing to do with that "S" (I just read up on it)....:msp_wink:


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## moody (Jun 4, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> No, it is simply the decomp valve, and has nothing to do with that "S" (I just read up on it)....:msp_wink:



If you dig a little the s is for easy adjust. The c is like you said a cat muffler.


----------



## SawTroll (Jun 4, 2013)

moody said:


> If you dig a little the s is for easy adjust. The c is like you said a cat muffler.



Yep, it took me about 30 Seconds to look that up, to verify it...


----------



## locofrog (Jun 4, 2013)

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/233265-3.htm

There's the link for my 2141 to 346 conversion. Startup video at the end.

Loco


----------



## AuerX (Jun 4, 2013)

locofrog said:


> http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/233265-3.htm
> 
> There's the link for my 2141 to 346 conversion. Startup video at the end.
> 
> Loco



Thanks for the link!

That is what I'd like to do to my 340.


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## moody (Jun 4, 2013)

locofrog said:


> http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/233265-3.htm
> 
> There's the link for my 2141 to 346 conversion. Startup video at the end.
> 
> Loco



Dual port or open the existing outlet? I don't remember but it sounded pretty good.


----------



## bluesportster02 (Jun 4, 2013)

thanks for the great thread what would be good numbers to port the 45 mm cylinder too. i ported my 350 but didnt use degree wheel.i just took out the base gasket widen the ports and blended the bottom of transfers. i got a degree wheel now and might go back in and adjust the timing a little. thanks


----------



## locofrog (Jun 4, 2013)

Also search for project stumpbroke sleeper 345. I think that's right. Stumpy built one mean machine there. He helped me lots. Mastermind and nmurph as well. These guys know their chit. If you need advice o help just pm me. I'll do what I can.

Oh and moody that was a single port exhaust. Gigantor hole covered by a 288xp deflector. I liked it so much for muffler mods I got 4 extras for later. Post a pic in a minute.

Loco


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## locofrog (Jun 4, 2013)

Here it is. A pic of the aftermarket cylinder and mm. Also the new warning decal.













Loco


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## moody (Jun 4, 2013)

bluesportster02 said:


> thanks for the great thread what would be good numbers to port the 45 mm cylinder too. i ported my 350 but didnt use degree wheel.i just took out the base gasket widen the ports and blended the bottom of transfers. i got a degree wheel now and might go back in and adjust the timing a little. thanks



What kind of use does the saw see? If its a saw you play around with you could get crazy with it.


----------



## bluesportster02 (Jun 4, 2013)

moody said:


> What kind of use does the saw see? If its a saw you play around with you could get crazy with it.




this one is for fun 
i have others for firewood


----------



## moody (Jun 4, 2013)

bluesportster02 said:


> this one is for fun
> i have others for firewood



If I had your stock numbers I'd be more help.


----------



## bluesportster02 (Jun 5, 2013)

moody said:


> If I had your stock numbers I'd be more help.



if i did it right they are 
ex 100
int71
tran 145


----------



## moody (Jun 5, 2013)

bluesportster02 said:


> if i did it right they are
> ex 100
> int71
> tran 145



You're missing your blow down and your transfers seem a little high. But that's no big deal if you cut your squish those will come down a degree or two. Leave the intake alone since you've already widened it, raise your exhaust to 104*. The trick with these is not how much you take out its where you take it from. Match the riser to the jug in the transfer area you need torward the intake some maybe 2mm. Be careful not to take too much or you'll loose charge velocity/ throttle response. Get a 346 boot remove the sleeve add a walbro 199 and poke a hole in the muffler and you'll have a nice running saw.


----------



## SawTroll (Jun 5, 2013)

_This thread_ is sort of connected to this topic.


----------



## AuerX (Jun 5, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> _This thread_ is sort of connected to this topic.



Nice!

Thanks.

Eric


----------



## mweba (Jun 5, 2013)

I have a pile of these to build. Was thinking of a start to finish video. Enough interest and I'll invest the time.


----------



## old 040 (Jun 5, 2013)

mweba said:


> I have a pile of these to build. Was thinking of a start to finish video. Enough interest and I'll invest the time.



i'd like to see that, not that i'm not capable to do this job by any means, but i must admit i've still not done one, and would like to see it from those that have done several before just "diving in"..................


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## locofrog (Jun 5, 2013)

It's easy as crapping your pants bro. You could do it no problem.

Loco


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## moody (Jun 5, 2013)

mweba said:


> I have a pile of these to build. Was thinking of a start to finish video. Enough interest and I'll invest the time.



I think it'd help a lot of folks on here. You started me out on these by showing me one time. So its your fault I like them so much


----------



## old 040 (Jun 5, 2013)

locofrog said:


> It's easy as crapping your pants bro. You could do it no problem.
> 
> Loco



i'm sure it is, but i'd also like to see other's perspective on how they've done these saws..........................


----------



## bluesportster02 (Jun 5, 2013)

moody said:


> You're missing your blow down and your transfers seem a little high. But that's no big deal if you cut your squish those will come down a degree or two. Leave the intake alone since you've already widened it, raise your exhaust to 104*. The trick with these is not how much you take out its where you take it from. Match the riser to the jug in the transfer area you need torward the intake some maybe 2mm. Be careful not to take too much or you'll loose charge velocity/ throttle response. Get a 346 boot remove the sleeve add a walbro 199 and poke a hole in the muffler and you'll have a nice running saw.



thanks moody for sharing your info with me


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## moody (Jun 5, 2013)

bluesportster02 said:


> thanks moody for sharing your info with me



No problem those numbers should work well. Biggest gain you can get is ditch the dished piston and get a flat top.


----------



## apn73 (Jun 5, 2013)

locofrog said:


> Loco


:msp_lol:Now that's some funny stuff right there!


----------



## AuerX (Jun 6, 2013)

So if you use this kit :Husqvarna 340 345 on a 340 what CC do you end up with?

Thanks 

Eric


----------



## moody (Jun 7, 2013)

Finnman said:


> So if you use this kit :Husqvarna 340 345 on a 340 what CC do you end up with?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Eric



51.7 its the closed port 45mm version. I'd ask if its a flat top piston or dished. All and all a good price for a complete kit.


----------



## Homelite410 (Jun 7, 2013)

*I put a 359 into my 350!*

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/214853.htm

It isnt too easy to do but it sure is fun to run. 

I just wanted to show you all the potential of these saws. I think that these saws are the best homeowner saws ever made. Even the open port 44mm cyls run hard when properly built. Id take a 350 over a 346 anyday!:msp_wink:


----------



## moody (Jun 7, 2013)

Homelite410 said:


> http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/214853.htm
> 
> It isnt too easy to do but it sure is fun to run.
> 
> I just wanted to show you all the potential of these saws. I think that these saws are the best homeowner saws ever made. Even the open port 44mm cyls run hard when properly built. Id take a 350 over a 346 anyday!:msp_wink:



I mentioned that in one of my page long comments. I agree they are the best home owners saw ever.


----------



## Jon B. (Jun 7, 2013)

I've owned a J-Red 2150 for ~6 years; my second one. A while ago, it started running rich, bogging while cutting and generally performing poorly. Adjusting the mixture didn't help. I looked it over - nothing loose, missing or maladjusted. Pulled the muffler to look at the cylinder - still nicely cross-hatched from the factory hone. Piston and ring are good. Hmmm...

This one has the reusable air filter, which *looked* clean, but I brushed it anyway. No change. While I had the top cover of, I ran it a bit. Then, I tried it with the air filter off - Whoa! Took the filter to the laundry sink and *really *cleaned it with strong detergent and hot, hot water. Dried and installed.

The thing runs and cuts like a "scalded cat"!! My new saw is back.

I wrote all that so that I could write this: Just because the filter looks clean, doesn't mean that it is. 

This was my main firewood saw - and still is for the smaller wood. I recently bought a new Husky 576XP for bigger stuff, but the 2150, even with an 18" B&C, is a pretty strong - and inexpensive - non pro saw.

Jon


----------



## Homelite410 (Jun 7, 2013)

Jon B. said:


> I've owned a J-Red 2150 for ~6 years; my second one. A while ago, it started running rich, bogging while cutting and generally performing poorly. Adjusting the mixture didn't help. I looked it over - nothing loose, missing or maladjusted. Pulled the muffler to look at the cylinder - still nicely cross-hatched from the factory hone. Piston and ring are good. Hmmm...
> 
> This one has the reusable air filter, which *looked* clean, but I brushed it anyway. No change. While I had the top cover of, I ran it a bit. Then, I tried it with the air filter off - Whoa! Took the filter to the laundry sink and *really *cleaned it with strong detergent and hot, hot water. Dried and installed.
> 
> ...



I tend to clean my flocked filters with brakekleen and blow them out to get the spit back oil out of them!! 

Very good point there Jon. Glad u mentioned it. :msp_biggrin:


----------



## moody (Jun 7, 2013)

Homelite410 said:


> I tend to clean my flocked filters with brakekleen and blow them out to get the spit back oil out of them!!
> 
> Very good point there Jon. Glad u mentioned it. :msp_biggrin:



Brake kleen works on everything you get my message ?


----------



## apn73 (Jun 8, 2013)

Homelite410 said:


> I tend to clean my flocked filters with brakekleen and blow them out to get the spit back oil out of them!!
> 
> Very good point there Jon. Glad u mentioned it. :msp_biggrin:


I've wondered about this. I'm not sure if the filter material is any different between the J'red/Huskies and my Stihl MS 361 (sorry to mention that awful name in this J'red/Husky thread), but my filter has got the spit back oil on it with the caked on saw dust, and it doesn't move even with 120 psi compressed air. Have you noticed any breakdown of the filter material using break clean? Lord knows I've got plenty of that kicking around.


----------



## moody (Jun 8, 2013)

I haven't had any issues with it. 

For anyone this thread helps just leave us a comment with your issue and what you got from this thread that resolved it.


----------



## SawTroll (Jun 8, 2013)

apn73 said:


> I've wondered about this. I'm not sure if the filter material is any different between the J'red/Huskies and my Stihl MS 361 (sorry to mention that awful name in this J'red/Husky thread), but my filter has got the spit back oil on it with the caked on saw dust, and it doesn't move even with 120 psi compressed air. Have you noticed any breakdown of the filter material using break clean? Lord knows I've got plenty of that kicking around.



Dishwashers works great!


----------



## apn73 (Jun 8, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> Dishwashers works great!


Really?! Regular dish soap?


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## moody (Jun 8, 2013)

apn73 said:


> Really?! Regular dish soap?



Yup


----------



## SawTroll (Jun 8, 2013)

moody said:


> Yup



:agree2:


----------



## mweba (Jun 8, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> :agree2:



What he said


----------



## apn73 (Jun 8, 2013)

mweba said:


> What he said


Well, I'll be darned.


----------



## mweba (Jun 8, 2013)

Should have the "Complete rebuild" video done tomorrow. Tried to capture most of the tricks I've learned that pertain to this line of saws but sure to have missed something. Lots of editing to do, pretty boring watching me clean a saw


----------



## moody (Jun 9, 2013)

mweba said:


> Should have the "Complete rebuild" video done tomorrow. Tried to capture most of the tricks I've learned that pertain to this line of saws but sure to have missed something. Lots of editing to do, pretty boring watching me clean a saw



Sweet! And come on we both know cleaning the saw is important :msp_rolleyes: And count your blessing s its not a 290


----------



## mweba (Jun 9, 2013)

There you go, 52 minutes in 720P  Good night that was alot of work.

I'm sure I missed some things and misspoke a couple times.....O'well

[video=youtube_share;pIE0UxzNAHs]http://youtu.be/pIE0UxzNAHs[/video]


----------



## moody (Jun 9, 2013)

mweba said:


> There you go, 52 minutes in 720P  Good night that was alot of work.
> 
> I'm sure I missed some things and misspoke a couple times.....O'well
> 
> [video=youtube_share;pIE0UxzNAHs]http://youtu.be/pIE0UxzNAHs[/video]



Very nice I appreciate the time you put into this video. And very thankful for the thing's you've helped me with in the past. It's funny how a $40 dollar saw and a road trip to your place instilled a love for these saws.


----------



## apn73 (Jun 13, 2013)

What's a good compression range for a 340/2141?


----------



## moody (Jun 13, 2013)

apn73 said:


> What's a good compression range for a 340/2141?



150ish if its reading lower than 140 rings need to be inspected and make sure you don't have any scoring.


----------



## SawTroll (Jun 14, 2013)

Bump!


----------



## apn73 (Jun 14, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> Bump!


What's that mean?


----------



## SawTroll (Jun 14, 2013)

apn73 said:


> What's that mean?



It means making the thread easier to find. :msp_smile:

Also, it was intended to remind people of the thread, and serve as *a reminder to subscribe *to it, for later use.

The thread is too good to just be forgotten!


----------



## AuerX (Jun 14, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> It means making the thread easier to find. :msp_smile:
> 
> Also, it was intended to remind people of the thread, and serve as *a reminder to subscribe *to it, for later use.
> 
> The thread is too good to just be forgotten!



Would make a nice sticky too


----------



## mweba (Jun 14, 2013)

A little squish cut. Not the same saw as video but one I finished last week or so.


----------



## moody (Jun 14, 2013)

That should make for a nice firewood saw


----------



## mweba (Jun 14, 2013)

I think the owner will be pleased.

Random bit I've learned. If the trans caps are removed and replaced without the gasket, the cap screws will bottom out. The cap will not have pressure applied to it or the sealant causing an immediate air leak or eventual one. Nip the tips off just a bit to allow clearance.


----------



## moody (Jun 14, 2013)

mweba said:


> I think the owner will be pleased.
> 
> Random bit I've learned. If the trans caps are removed and replaced without the gasket, the cap screws will bottom out. The cap will not have pressure applied to it or the sealant causing an immediate air leak or eventual one. Nip the tips off just a bit to allow clearance.



I'm almost finished with a saw I'm building for someone. That's a good tip, I learned that the circlips have funny ways of landing in the shop floor drains when removing. Here's my solution get a large ziploc bag and hold over the jug. It seems to knock them down where you can find them.


----------



## DexterDay (Jun 18, 2013)

I just acquired a 350 for.... Lets say cheap ($50) Not being a Big Husq guy, I had no idea what I got. Was looking at either trading off or putting on auction? 

This thread should be a sticky if it already isn't? (Search)? 

Now I am contemplating keeping it and doing the cheap upgrades?


----------



## moody (Jun 19, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> I just acquired a 350 for.... Lets say cheap ($50) Not being a Big Husq guy, I had no idea what I got. Was looking at either trading off or putting on auction?
> 
> This thread should be a sticky if it already isn't? (Search)?
> 
> Now I am contemplating keeping it and doing the cheap upgrades?



That's the beauty of this platform. Nice performance and money left for a beer


----------



## workshop (Jun 19, 2013)

I've got a 340 and a 350 on the shelf. This thread has inspired me to want to do the piston upgrade on the 350 (353 piston) but I have run into a perplexing situation on the 340. My 350 has the separate cylinder from the crankcase. My 340 appears to be a clamshell engine. Is it a 340 or is it really something different? Or did Husqvarna make different models of the 340? I will confess my stupidity here, that's why I depend on you guy's.


----------



## moody (Jun 19, 2013)

workshop said:


> I've got a 340 and a 350 on the shelf. This thread has inspired me to want to do the piston upgrade on the 350 (353 piston) but I have run into a perplexing situation on the 340. My 350 has the separate cylinder from the crankcase. My 340 appears to be a clamshell engine. Is it a 340 or is it really something different? Or did Husqvarna make different models of the 340? I will confess my stupidity here, that's why I depend on you guy's.



You need the 350 riser block to put the pro style top ends. Look at your 350 you'll see bolts underneath and bolts holding the jug on. The riser block is essentially a crank cap. The big bore AM kits usually have it in the kit.


----------



## workshop (Jun 19, 2013)

Ooohhhh! (light bulb turning on) So the crank cap is like an adaptor of sorts. Really cool. LOTS of possibilities now. Fun times are about to begin.


----------



## moody (Jun 19, 2013)

workshop said:


> Ooohhhh! (light bulb turning on) So the crank cap is like an adaptor of sorts. Really cool. LOTS of possibilities now. Fun times are about to begin.



Oh trust me the possibilities are there. Some take some effort and crafty machine work.


----------



## MechanicMatt (Jun 19, 2013)

Moddy, you ever put a 028super piston in a 45mm jug? I know I can run a flat top 353 piston, but what about the 028supers domed piston? Thanks


----------



## moody (Jun 20, 2013)

MechanicMatt said:


> Moddy, you ever put a 028super piston in a 45mm jug? I know I can run a flat top 353 piston, but what about the 028supers domed piston? Thanks



The wrist pin needs to be the same size and I believe the dome nipple is offset. The 49sp piston is domed and I believe has the sAme wrist pin size. IMHO you're better off with a flat top.


----------



## elanjoe (Jun 21, 2013)

will the crankcase off a 345 work for a 350, I don't see why not ?


----------



## mweba (Jun 21, 2013)

elanjoe said:


> will the crankcase off a 345 work for a 350, I don't see why not ?



Yes if you have a spare riser.


----------



## elanjoe (Jun 23, 2013)

mweba said:


> Yes if you have a spare riser.



thank you sir.


----------



## moody (Jun 23, 2013)

elanjoe said:


> thank you sir.



You will also need the appropriate hardware.


----------



## elanjoe (Jun 24, 2013)

moody said:


> You will also need the appropriate hardware.



i have a 350 that the muffler melted through the oil resovoir ,so everything will bolt right to the 340 case


----------



## moody (Jun 24, 2013)

elanjoe said:


> i have a 350 that the muffler melted through the oil resovoir ,so everything will bolt right to the 340 case



Yup the oiler and chain tensioner are the only differences. No big deal there. They'll do just as well.


----------



## moody (Jun 25, 2013)

Here's an example of a 350 converted to a 346. I ported this saw I'm waiting on a carb and a couple other little things but it runs pretty well.


----------



## workshop (Jun 26, 2013)

Hey Moody, Is there a general rule of thumb for making ports bigger and raising/lowering ports? I've read where they raise this 2mm or lower that 1mm. It looks like you made the exhaust port both wider and higher/lower. Just trying to figure out how much is good and how much bigger will ruin it. I'm looking at getting a degree wheel and getting comfortable reading it. Do you want to raise the exhaust port? And raise the transfer ports accordingly? Do you lower the intake port to extend the amount of time filling the crankcase? It's confusing for this old brain.


----------



## moody (Jun 26, 2013)

workshop said:


> Hey Moody, Is there a general rule of thumb for making ports bigger and raising/lowering ports? I've read where they raise this 2mm or lower that 1mm. It looks like you made the exhaust port both wider and higher/lower. Just trying to figure out how much is good and how much bigger will ruin it. I'm looking at getting a degree wheel and getting comfortable reading it. Do you want to raise the exhaust port? And raise the transfer ports accordingly? Do you lower the intake port to extend the amount of time filling the crankcase? It's confusing for this old brain.


If you cut your squish the intake will go lower. I didn't lower the exhaust. Doing that will cause free porting and you'll lose a little power. I widened and raised the exhaust port. The transfers will vary depending on what you're looking for example torque/or rpms. I'm not as good or as good at explaining as the builders you see a lot of. Mastermind is pretty good at explaining things.


----------



## elanjoe (Jun 27, 2013)

does anyone Know if the wiha tool set has the driver to remove the safety torx screws on the transfer caps?


----------



## SawTroll (Jun 27, 2013)

moody said:


> Yup the oiler and chain tensioner are the only differences. No big deal there. They'll do just as well.



I never notised the chain tensioner is different (never looked really), I guess we all learn as we live!


----------



## moody (Jun 28, 2013)

elanjoe said:


> does anyone Know if the wiha tool set has the driver to remove the safety torx screws on the transfer caps?



I THINK its a 3mm torx bit

Im not sure so I'd ask mweba.


----------



## moody (Jul 1, 2013)

Give this a little bump


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## Homelite410 (Jul 1, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> I never notised the chain tensioner is different (never looked really), I guess we all learn as we live!



I do believe that the 2141 340 saws had a front mounted tensioner. I also believe that you could swap a side mount tensioner into as well.


----------



## moody (Jul 1, 2013)

Homelite410 said:


> I do believe that the 2141 340 saws had a front mounted tensioner. I also believe that you could swap a side mount tensioner into as well.



Bingo. Its not really a fun swap the same goes with the adjustable oiler. 

The only thing I don't understand is that a .325 set up from a 346 will interchange as they are the same part number. But the 3/8 off a 346 won't mount properly? I haven't tried this because I have too much money in my .325 stuff to switch.


----------



## moody (Jul 3, 2013)

*For what it's worth*

Throughout this thread I and other members have elaborated don't swap the top ends unless you have to. Well this is a saw Ramzilla picked up cheap it needed a top end. I offered my help in return I asked he kept the saw  (he's a Stihl guy). Start to finish this saw has about $185 in it that I know of. The 346 44.3 kit from Watsonr $90 shipped, 357 boot from watsonr $15 shipped, hda 199 carb $70ish and boot clamp $3.57. Fuel lines were about $1.50. I ported the saw free of charge because I wanted to let the platform show it's potential. I'd rather help someone out and keep them from ditching a very underrated saw.

So here it is.(357boot was not installed at the time of this video)


----------



## moody (Jul 3, 2013)

[video=youtube;e7nws1wZt5E]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7nws1wZt5E&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]


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## rburg (Jul 3, 2013)

Good job on the 350. I have a 350 and I really like the saw. Mine is stock, but it is still a good firewood saw.


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## moody (Jul 3, 2013)

rburg said:


> Good job on the 350. I have a 350 and I really like the saw. Mine is stock, but it is still a good firewood saw.



Thank you

Have you checked the first page of this thread? There are some helpful tips to get a longer life from your saw.


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## rburg (Jul 3, 2013)

Yes. I have enjoyed reading this thread quite a bit.


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## moody (Jul 3, 2013)

rburg said:


> Yes. I have enjoyed reading this thread quite a bit.



Good deal it's a lot to digest but it's helpful.


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## moody (Jul 6, 2013)

How can I make this a sticky?


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## DexterDay (Jul 6, 2013)

Whats the Husq equivalent, to the Jonny 2159? Any good?


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## tbone75 (Jul 6, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> Whats the Husq equivalent, to the Jonny 2159? Any good?



359 Husky

Sure love mine !


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## tbone75 (Jul 6, 2013)

Great thread !

Love my 350s !! Built many of them ! LOL

Still learning more about them thanks to this thread !


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## moody (Jul 6, 2013)

tbone75 said:


> Great thread !
> 
> Love my 350s !! Built many of them ! LOL
> 
> Still learning more about them thanks to this thread !



C
I've got a few :msp_tongue: I've got a small parts lot that'll be here next week. That'll give me 5 cases and enough parts to build a couple more. No closed port top ends so I'll have to buy a couple.


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## moody (Jul 6, 2013)

The key to these saws is correcting issues I listed in my first post. They'll last as long as anything else if you do that.


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## tbone75 (Jul 6, 2013)

moody said:


> C
> I've got a few :msp_tongue: I've got a small parts lot that'll be here next week. That'll give me 5 cases and enough parts to build a couple more. No closed port top ends so I'll have to buy a couple.



I just built 4 of them a couple months ago. LOL Found 2 more to play with now ! LOL I usually sell or trade them off,always keeping least 2 for myself ! With a little port work on them. LOL
My all around favorite saw !
Plus there so easy to work on !

The muffler bolt problem I seem to have fixed using small lock washers. Been on one 2 yrs. now , no problems .


----------



## elanjoe (Jul 6, 2013)

elanjoe said:


> The muffler bolts from a 288 xp with a small drill and tap job take care of the muffler bolt problem. I have done two in the last month, one on a brand new A/M topend for a 2150 , and one on a 353 that had lost a bolt but it had not ruined the cylinder yet. both saws didn't see thread locker and they are still as tight as the day they were torqued.



just did another 350


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## atlarge54 (Jul 6, 2013)

I'm pretty fond of the 350, the removable transfer covers and the option to swap the dished piston for a flat top makes it possible for a backyard hack like myself to have a pretty spicy saw for a minimum dollar. I've done a couple from "mystery components" and it is important to make sure all the parts belong together, seems there are primer bulb and non-primer bulb tanks, carbs and intakes. I do find it a bit difficult to believe that a 346 top end is vastly superior to a closed port 350 with slight mods and the flat top piston BWDIK. 

Thanks to DexterDay I've got another one on the way. I have no idea what to do with it but it did have a nice assortment of chains and I suppose it's a good opportunity to compare stock to modded.


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## moody (Jul 6, 2013)

atlarge54 said:


> I'm pretty fond of the 350, the removable transfer covers and the option to swap the dished piston for a flat top makes it possible for a backyard hack like myself to have a pretty spicy saw for a minimum dollar. I've done a couple from "mystery components" and it is important to make sure all the parts belong together, seems there are primer bulb and non-primer bulb tanks, carbs and intakes. I do find it a bit difficult to believe that a 346 top end is vastly superior to a closed port 350 with slight mods and the flat top piston BWDIK.
> 
> Thanks to DexterDay I've got another one on the way. I have no idea what to do with it but it did have a nice assortment of chains and I suppose it's a good opportunity to compare stock to modded.



Do a comparison between dished and flat top.


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## DexterDay (Jul 6, 2013)

I hope it works out well for you... It is a great running saw. But I just need to make a little room ..... 

Moody is the one that had me on the bubble to keep it. I sat on this saw for a long time because of this thread!


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## moody (Jul 6, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> I hope it works out well for you... It is a great running saw. But I just need to make a little room .....
> 
> Moody is the one that had me on the bubble to keep it. I sat on this saw for a long time because of this thread!



Well next time you have one you plan on relocating get in touch with me :hmm3grin2orange:


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## DexterDay (Jul 6, 2013)

There is one in Mansfield, for $120 obo. Look up Ohio Mansfield CL. 

I was gonna go get it. But have to much going on with family this weekend. 

Maybe he will ship? Im sure for $100, you could have it... 

If it's there next weekend? Its MINE!


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## tbone75 (Jul 6, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> There is one in Mansfield, for $120 obo. Look up Ohio Mansfield CL.
> 
> I was gonna go get it. But have to much going on with family this weekend.
> 
> ...



Mansfield isn't to far from me , but I have enough for now. LOL


----------



## moody (Jul 6, 2013)

Does it run? And how does it look?


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## DexterDay (Jul 6, 2013)

*Cl 350*

He says it runs? It looks pretty good. Its the only 350 in the Mansfield CL in Ohio.


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## lefturnfreek (Jul 6, 2013)

Here's my free to me 350, after a couple of bengies into it, I kinda like it


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## moody (Jul 6, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> He says it runs? It looks pretty good. Its the only 350 in the Mansfield CL in Ohio.



I don't get paid until Tuesday:msp_scared:


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## RiverRat2 (Jul 16, 2013)

spike60 said:


> Correct, and there are a few other hardware differences as well. (and some mis-information so far in this thread)
> 
> First thing to be aware of is that all early saws in this family used a course thread for both the cylinder and bottom riser block bolts. Change was 2002/2003 to the finer thread bolts. This was not just on 350's but on the early metal case saws, (346/351/2149) as well. So obviously, mixing hardware can wreck some existing threads.
> 
> ...



Spike How Can I date a 350 saw?? I have one from a friend of my Nephew's that he has been into :bang: problem is that one is in Parts in a box:bang::bang: and it has a primer bulb on it so I guess it is a doner/parts saw,,, and the other one does not,,,

I can get it cranked and it runs out good on the topend but wont idle at all.. Some times have to partial choke it to get it to rev,,, sounds like a bad air leak as others have pointed out??? Where are the serial #'s located so I can make sure he has the rifght carb on it,,, BTW Is the primer bulb carb differnt from a non primer bulb model????




lefturnfreek said:


> Here's my free to me 350, after a couple of bengies into it, I kinda like it



heck I like the Ford truck too!!!!


----------



## SawTroll (Jul 16, 2013)

RiverRat2 said:


> Spike How Can I date a 350 saw?? I have one from a friend of my Nephew's that he has been into :bang: problem is that one is in Parts in a box:bang::bang: and it has a primer bulb on it so I guess it is a doner/parts saw,,, and the other one does not,,,
> 
> I can get it cranked and it runs out good on the topend but wont idle at all.. Some times have to partial choke it to get it to rev,,, sounds like a bad air leak as others have pointed out??? Where are the serial #'s located so I can make sure he has the rifght carb on it,,, BTW Is the primer bulb carb differnt from a non primer bulb model????
> 
> ...



Just take a look at the number plate to date it, but that doesn't always tell which exact version it is.


----------



## RiverRat2 (Jul 16, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> Just take a look at the number plate to date it, but that doesn't always tell which exact version it is.



Thats the problem Niko,,, On the prograde Husky saws I have the number plate it right by the chain oil fill cap,,,, I dont see one:bang: at all On this thing GRRRRRRR!!!!


----------



## SawTroll (Jul 16, 2013)

RiverRat2 said:


> Thats the problem Niko,,, On the prograde Husky saws I have the number plate it right by the chain oil fill cap,,,, I dont see one:bang: at all On this thing GRRRRRRR!!!!



Take the clutch cover off, and you will see it under the rear part of the handlebar, on that side.


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## moody (Jul 16, 2013)

RiverRat2 said:


> Spike How Can I date a 350 saw?? I have one from a friend of my Nephew's that he has been into :bang: problem is that one is in Parts in a box:bang::bang: and it has a primer bulb on it so I guess it is a doner/parts saw,,, and the other one does not,,,
> 
> I can get it cranked and it runs out good on the topend but wont idle at all.. Some times have to partial choke it to get it to rev,,, sounds like a bad air leak as others have pointed out??? Where are the serial #'s located so I can make sure he has the rifght carb on it,,, BTW Is the primer bulb carb differnt from a non primer bulb model????
> 
> ...



There are 3 different stock carb options. The black tag is under the clutch cover on the left. You have an air leak is why it won't idle. The first thing to look at to tell what top end you have is the transfer caps on the jug. If it has them its a 51.7 cc 45mm bore closed port. Most primer bulb saws were this. It's safe practice to re seal the riser block and top end anytime you spot air leaks anywhere. It's not hard to do and it's worth the extra effort. Replace the plastic boot clamp with a metal one.


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## lefturnfreek (Jul 17, 2013)

RiverRat2 said:


> heck I like the Ford truck too!!!!



So do I. That's my 53 1T box and hoist truck named Barry cause that's what's written on the back window by the PO, free to me cause who ever put the hoist on couldn't weld to the spec of "unsecured 3/4 full water tank hitting the side of the box in a wild right hand turn" which ripped it off the truck. Reassemble and it's been in my yard since.


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## apn73 (Jul 25, 2013)

I stumbled upon what appears to be an early 2150, it clearly says 2150 Turbo on the recoil cover. I know that the "turbo" refers to the cyclone pre-filter for the combustion air. It struck me funny that the add for it said 49.4cc because I had thought that all 350's/2150's were 51.7cc, which appears to be the later EPA certified saws. What is the difference between the two engines other than the difference in displacement? Is one preferable over the other? Did they increase the displacement to offset the decrease in performance due to the EPA certification?
Thanks,
Adam.


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## moody (Jul 25, 2013)

apn73 said:


> I stumbled upon what appears to be an early 2150, it clearly says 2150 Turbo on the recoil cover. I know that the "turbo" refers to the cyclone pre-filter for the combustion air. It struck me funny that the add for it said 49.4cc because I had thought that all 350's/2150's were 51.7cc, which appears to be the later EPA certified saws. What is the difference between the two engines other than the difference in displacement? Is one preferable over the other? Did they increase the displacement to offset the decrease in performance due to the EPA certification?
> Thanks,
> Adam.



The first couple pages have this information in it it. But the 49cc is an open port flat top piston also used on the 351 the later epa 51.7 share the same closed port cylinder with the 353. The only difference in the two is the 350 has a dished piston. The later epa models almost always have a primer bulb as well. They also use fine threaded head bolts opposed to the earlier models which used a coarse threaded bolt.


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## apn73 (Jul 26, 2013)

moody said:


> The first couple pages have this information in it it. But the 49cc is an open port flat top piston also used on the 351 the later epa 51.7 share the same closed port cylinder with the 353. The only difference in the two is the 350 has a dished piston. The later epa models almost always have a primer bulb as well. They also use fine threaded head bolts opposed to the earlier models which used a coarse threaded bolt.


Thank you. Sorry to make you repeat something, had forgotten that 49cc had entered the discussion early on. I had it in my mind that 49cc was the 2149 and not the 2150.


----------



## KiwiOilBoiler (Aug 9, 2013)

I came across my first 3 series recently, a '99 345. I've posted elsewhere how much I liked the ergo's compared to my 2 series saws, but the plastic case is a put-off for me.

An '06 353 has just been listed locally, are they metal case? What's best course of action to get them 'XP-ing'??

Cheers, Adam


----------



## tbone75 (Aug 9, 2013)

KiwiOilBoiler said:


> I came across my first 3 series recently, a '99 345. I've posted elsewhere how much I liked the ergo's compared to my 2 series saws, but the plastic case is a put-off for me.
> 
> An '06 353 has just been listed locally, are they metal case? What's best course of action to get them 'XP-ing'??
> 
> Cheers, Adam



The 353 is a mag case , you would need a 346 top end to make a xp out of it.

The 345 has a open port 44mm P&C , all the others have a closed port 45mm P&C . The 350 & 353 have bolt on transfer covers.

I have a 350,353 & 346 . Hard to tell the difference in how they run. The 346 has just a tiny bit more than the 350 or 353 . They are all great saws I think ! LOL


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## KiwiOilBoiler (Aug 9, 2013)

tbone75 said:


> The 353 is a mag case , you would need a 346 top end to make a xp out of it.
> 
> The 345 has a open port 44mm P&C , all the others have a closed port 45mm P&C . The 350 & 353 have bolt on transfer covers.
> 
> I have a 350,353 & 346 . Hard to tell the difference in how they run. The 346 has just a tiny bit more than the 350 or 353 . They are all great saws I think ! LOL



Cool, so the 353 cylinder is lower performance with limited potential vs 346, but easily solved with an entire p&c upgrade and a muffler mod. I'm liking where this might go! My 242 may be on borrowed time......

Cheers, Adam.


----------



## tbone75 (Aug 9, 2013)

KiwiOilBoiler said:


> Cool, so the 353 cylinder is lower performance with limited potential vs 346, but easily solved with an entire p&c upgrade and a muffler mod. I'm liking where this might go! My 242 may be on borrowed time......
> 
> Cheers, Adam.



Yes , just put a 346 top end on the 353. Muff mod and a little porting makes a great saw out of it !


----------



## SawTroll (Aug 9, 2013)

apn73 said:


> Thank you. Sorry to make you repeat something, had forgotten that 49cc had entered the discussion early on. I had it in my mind that 49cc was the 2149 and not the 2150.



Those originally shared the same 49.4cc open port top end, like the Husky 351 and 350.


----------



## moody (Aug 9, 2013)

tbone75 said:


> The 353 is a mag case , you would need a 346 top end to make a xp out of it.
> 
> The 345 has a open port 44mm P&C , all the others have a closed port 45mm P&C . The 350 & 353 have bolt on transfer covers.
> 
> I have a 350,353 & 346 . Hard to tell the difference in how they run. The 346 has just a tiny bit more than the 350 or 353 . They are all great saws I think ! LOL



The 345 is also a clamshell. To put any of the 350,353,346 top ends on it you need the riser block and the appropriate hardware. The 353 has a flat top piston the 350 has a dished so there's a noticeable difference in performance. The 350's also had open port top ends as well. The closed port 350/353 top end doesn't have limited performance gains they can be made pretty nasty keep an eye out for a thread in the next couple days.


----------



## tbone75 (Aug 9, 2013)

moody said:


> The 345 is also a clamshell. To put any of the 350,353,346 top ends on it you need the riser block and the appropriate hardware. The 353 has a flat top piston the 350 has a dished so there's a noticeable difference in performance. The 350's also had open port top ends as well. The closed port 350/353 top end doesn't have limited performance gains they can be made pretty nasty keep an eye out for a thread in the next couple days.



Forgot about the different pistons in the 350 & 353 . 
I have had several 350s,haven't had a open port one yet.

I will be watching !


----------



## SawTroll (Aug 9, 2013)

tbone75 said:


> The 353 is a mag case , you would need a 346 top end to make a xp out of it.
> 
> *The 345 has a open port 44mm P&C* , all the others have a closed port 45mm P&C . The 350 & 353 have bolt on transfer covers.
> 
> I have a 350,353 & 346 . Hard to tell the difference in how they run. The 346 has just a tiny bit more than the 350 or 353 . They are all great saws I think ! LOL



The 345 is an open port clamshell style 42mm. The non EPA 350/2150 and the 351/2149 came with the 44mm open port.

The 351/2149 basically was a 346xp with the lesser top end, and was replaced by the 353/2152 around 2002.


----------



## tbone75 (Aug 9, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> The 345 is an open port clamshell style 42mm. The non EPA 350/2150 and the 351/2149 came with the 44mm open port.
> 
> The 351/2149 basically was a 346xp with the lesser top end, and was replaced by the 353/2152 around 2002.



Thanks !! I know what to look for now !


----------



## redunshee (Aug 9, 2013)

tbone75 said:


> The 353 is a mag case , you would need a 346 top end to make a xp out of it.
> 
> The 345 has a open port 44mm P&C , all the others have a closed port 45mm P&C . The 350 & 353 have bolt on transfer covers.
> 
> I have a 350,353 & 346 . Hard to tell the difference in how they run. The 346 has just a tiny bit more than the 350 or 353 . They are all great saws I think ! LOL



A little info. By bolt on transfer cover are you referring to the rectangular cover held on by screws on the side of the cylinder? Rebuilding a 353 and I noticed the cover on the side of the cylinder.
Bob


----------



## redunshee (Aug 9, 2013)

tbone75 said:


> Forgot about the different pistons in the 350 & 353 .
> I have had several 350s,haven't had a open port one yet.
> 
> I will be watching !



Me too. Working on a 353 right now.


----------



## SawTroll (Aug 9, 2013)

redunshee said:


> A little info. By bolt on transfer cover are you referring to the rectangular cover held on by screws on the side of the cylinder? Rebuilding a 353 and I noticed the cover on the side of the cylinder.
> Bob



Surely he was!


----------



## tbone75 (Aug 9, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> Surely he was!



Yep , should have said screwed on covers ! LOL


----------



## redunshee (Aug 9, 2013)

tbone75 said:


> Yep , should have said screwed on covers ! LOL



Not really. I just couldn't recall if the cover used bolts or screws. Never saw that before which is why I asked was there a reason for this?


----------



## tbone75 (Aug 9, 2013)

redunshee said:


> Not really. I just couldn't recall if the cover used bolts or screws. Never saw that before which is why I asked was there a reason for this?



Only thing I can think of , must have been cheaper to make them that way ? The 346 jug doesn't have them , its closed port.
Makes it easier to do a little grinding in there , pull them off to get in there ! LOL


----------



## SawTroll (Aug 9, 2013)

tbone75 said:


> Only thing I can think of , must have been cheaper to make them that way ? The 346 jug doesn't have them , its closed port.
> Makes it easier to do a little grinding in there , pull them off to get in there ! LOL



Not sure if it is cheaper really, but they surely are different - and Gilardoni, not Mahle. As I understand it, it is "easy" to overdo the transfers on the 353 and 359 jugs....

More transfer capasity only Works well if the carb, intake and exaust is up to it! :msp_wink:


----------



## SawTroll (Aug 15, 2013)

tbone75 said:


> Only thing I can think of , must have been cheaper to make them that way ? The 346 jug doesn't have them , its closed port.
> Makes it easier to do a little grinding in there , pull them off to get in there ! LOL



The 353 (and 359) top ends also are closed port, but made in a different way, and purposely not ported as well as the 346xp (and 357xp) ones.

I have been told that an OEM 353 top end actually costs more than a 346xp one, as a spare part......


----------



## psuiewalsh (Aug 15, 2013)

These guys like to multiply. I repaired the 350 muffler yesterday (one with starting instructions). One bolt was broke off flush with the cylinder and the other was stripped out. I drilled the broken one with a 3/32" cobalt drill and used an easy out. The other side I tapped to 6mm and used a bolt from a 288 which I ordered some extras to replace (6mm 1.0 by 90mm long) 12.9 grade. I also had to drill thru the muffler from both sides and the exhaust shield and air deflector to accommodate the larger dia screw.


----------



## tbone75 (Aug 15, 2013)

psuiewalsh said:


> These guys like to multiply. I repaired the 350 muffler yesterday (one with starting instructions). One bolt was broke off flush with the cylinder and the other was stripped out. I drilled the broken one with a 3/32" cobalt drill and used an easy out. The other side I tapped to 6mm and used a bolt from a 288 which I ordered some extras to replace (6mm 1.0 by 90mm long) 12.9 grade. I also had to drill thru the muffler from both sides and the exhaust shield and air deflector to accommodate the larger dia screw.



They sure do ! LOL I have 2 more 350s one 345 & one 353 to put together. LOL Already have 3 - 350 runners & a like new 346xp . LOL
Plus sold or traded 3 in the last month. LOL

Just can't help it , love them 350s ! LOL


----------



## SawTroll (Aug 15, 2013)

tbone75 said:


> They sure do ! LOL I have 2 more 350s one 345 & one 353 to put together. LOL Already have 3 - 350 runners & a like new 346xp . LOL
> Plus sold or traded 3 in the last month. LOL
> 
> Just can't help it , love them 350s ! LOL



Not odd at all really, as they likely are the nicest "homowner" class saws ever made! :msp_biggrin:


----------



## tbone75 (Aug 15, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> Not odd at all really, as they likely are the nicest "homowner" class saws ever made! :msp_biggrin:



I couldn't agree more ! 16" B&C works for most anything around here ! A little porting and muff mod they really come alive !


----------



## SawTroll (Aug 15, 2013)

tbone75 said:


> I couldn't agree more ! 16" B&C works for most anything around here ! A little porting and muff mod they really come alive !



+ you can easily put a 346xp top end of them, if you want to!


----------



## tbone75 (Aug 15, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> + you can easily put a 346xp top end of them, if you want to!



Sure can , I have one done that way. But its a AM top end, sure does run good ! I put the 353 flat top pistons in the others. Light weight 353. LOL They sure seem to hold up as well as the 346 or 353 .
Plus they are so easy to work on ! ! Unlike a Stihl ! LOL


----------



## redunshee (Aug 16, 2013)

Man, my 353 rebuild is driving me to drink. Cannot eliminate an air leak at the bottom of the carb boot. Even bought all new parts from the cylinder to the carb and still no luck. Used motoseal around the boot, still leaks. Bet I've removed the cylinder and replaced the boot five times. I rebuilt two 346's with no issues. This one is making up for those two. What am I missing?


----------



## redunshee (Aug 17, 2013)

redunshee said:


> Man, my 353 rebuild is driving me to drink. Cannot eliminate an air leak at the bottom of the carb boot. Even bought all new parts from the cylinder to the carb and still no luck. Used motoseal around the boot, still leaks. Bet I've removed the cylinder and replaced the boot five times. I rebuilt two 346's with no issues. This one is making up for those two. What am I missing?



Anybody????


----------



## tbone75 (Aug 17, 2013)

redunshee said:


> Anybody????



What I do to them is trim the plastic clamp off and use a stihl or Husky clamp around the boot. Take the rubber boot out,and watch you don't cut the little nipple off too ! Never had one leak after that.


----------



## redunshee (Aug 17, 2013)

tbone75 said:


> What I do to them is trim the plastic clamp off and use a stihl or Husky clamp around the boot. Take the rubber boot out,and watch you don't cut the little nipple off too ! Never had one leak after that.



I did that but the husky 272or 372 (. Can't recall which) clamp wasn't big enough. Ended up with the new 353 metal clamp that hooks together. I find it much easier to install the boot with the cylinder off, so any leaks mean I have to repeatedly pull the cylinder. Guess that's the most frustrating part. Will try again. Thanks.
Bob


----------



## moody (Aug 17, 2013)

redunshee said:


> I did that but the husky 272or 372 (. Can't recall which) clamp wasn't big enough. Ended up with the new 353 metal clamp that hooks together. I find it much easier to install the boot with the cylinder off, so any leaks mean I have to repeatedly pull the cylinder. Guess that's the most frustrating part. Will try again. Thanks.
> Bob



It's big enough. You just have to get the impulse nipple lined up. You can't shove it all the way down or it will rip the boot. Those clamps work well in fact its almost the only clamp I use.


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## tbone75 (Aug 17, 2013)

redunshee said:


> I did that but the husky 272or 372 (. Can't recall which) clamp wasn't big enough. Ended up with the new 353 metal clamp that hooks together. I find it much easier to install the boot with the cylinder off, so any leaks mean I have to repeatedly pull the cylinder. Guess that's the most frustrating part. Will try again. Thanks.
> Bob



I always put the boot on first. If you trimmed the old plastic clamp off that 353 clamp would be to big ? Maybe you don't trim them all the way off like I do ? I do the same thing to a 357/359.


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## tbone75 (Aug 17, 2013)

Just finished putting a 350 & 353 together today. I trimmed the clamps off both of them,had to use stihl clamps,didn't have any Husky clamps left. LOL No leaks anywhere !


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## redunshee (Aug 17, 2013)

tbone75 said:


> I always put the boot on first. If you trimmed the old plastic clamp off that 353 clamp would be to big ? Maybe you don't trim them all the way off like I do ? I do the same thing to a 357/359.



Yea, I did that this time.mput the boot on first and then installed the carb adaptor or whatever the plastic piece is called. Blew air thru the cylinder impulse opening to be sure I was getting flow thru. Next step will be to reinstall the cylinder and do my pressure test. I did notice that using this approach the adaptor doesn't go on as far as the boot towards the cylinder. There is about a 1/8" of the boot showing. Hope this works.
Bob


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## tbone75 (Aug 17, 2013)

redunshee said:


> Yea, I did that this time.mput the boot on first and then installed the carb adaptor or whatever the plastic piece is called. Blew air thru the cylinder impulse opening to be sure I was getting flow thru. Next step will be to reinstall the cylinder and do my pressure test. I did notice that using this approach the adaptor doesn't go on as far as the boot towards the cylinder. There is about a 1/8" of the boot showing. Hope this works.
> Bob



Sure hope it works !

I have done several like that,never had any problems ! Least a dozen now. LOL


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## modder (Aug 18, 2013)

I just picked up 2- 2005, 2150 jonsereds for $50 each with a new B&C on each. The guy said they were burned up but after looking at the P&C on both, and checking compression, they are fine. They both are sucking air so will not idle properly, both have spring mounts that are loose so the throttle will only go half way open using the trigger. One is missing a muffler and has melted the case, but I have a good one for parts that I can swap out.

My plan is to mod one and leave the other stock. I have an extra carb from a 357xp that Im going to put on, do a bit of porting, swap out the dish top piston for a 353 flat top piston, and do a muffle mod. If anyone has already done all of the same to theirs, I would love to hear how it turned out. I really liked my previous 2150 so I'm looking forward to trying one out with more zip. 

Great thread. I really liked playing with my saws before finding this site, but now I find myself searching classifieds daily for broken, cheap, husqereds to bring back to life. I cant get enough.


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## moody (Aug 18, 2013)

modder said:


> I just picked up 2- 2005, 2150 jonsereds for $50 each with a new B&C on each. The guy said they were burned up but after looking at the P&C on both, and checking compression, they are fine. They both are sucking air so will not idle properly, both have spring mounts that are loose so the throttle will only go half way open using the trigger. One is missing a muffler and has melted the case, but I have a good one for parts that I can swap out.
> 
> My plan is to mod one and leave the other stock. I have an extra carb from a 357xp that Im going to put on, do a bit of porting, swap out the dish top piston for a 353 flat top piston, and do a muffle mod. If anyone has already done all of the same to theirs, I would love to hear how it turned out. I really liked my previous 2150 so I'm looking forward to trying one out with more zip.
> 
> Great thread. I really liked playing with my saws before finding this site, but now I find myself searching classifieds daily for broken, cheap, husqereds to bring back to life. I cant get enough.



I've done a few of them. They do very well just don't get crazy raising the transfers. There's only so far you can go before you start going back wards. Are you cutting the squish band?


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## modder (Aug 18, 2013)

moody said:


> I've done a few of them. They do very well just don't get crazy raising the transfers. There's only so far you can go before you start going back wards. Are you cutting the squish band?



I planned on tossing the base gasket as long as the current squish will allow. From What I can see from my solder strip test, there is more than enough room but I will need to check again after I swap out for the flat top piston. 

Question. Has anyone ever tried milling down the riser, then use gaskets to adjust to the perfect squish. Im sure some have done it, but on bikes, we would have the base of the cylinder milled, then use different size gaskets to get the proper squish. The reason why I ask is, it is cheaper for me to get the riser done than it would be for the cylinder. That would also allow me to take a bit off the top outside rim of the existing piston, making it lighter and turning it into a flat top. Is anyone going to tell me I'm nuts.


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## wcorey (Aug 18, 2013)

Deck the cylinder or deck the block, six 'o one, half dozen 'o the other. 
Unless doing the block is easier/cheaper for you of course.
I'm set up so it only takes 5 minutes to do the cylinder so no big deal, though I
only wish I could cut the squish band that quickly. Those are a bit of a pain to set up...

I guess one advantage of doing the block is that if the jug gets replaced the new one doesn't need to get cut.
Sort of like when cutting the squish band instead of a pop-up.

Still need to re-adjust the port timing accordingly though. Or not...

As for leveling off the top of the dished piston...
I had looked into doing it but the depth of the dish is such that it wouldn't leave much to support the ring.
Not sure what's considered acceptable there but I'd be uncomfortable with this one.

I thought about going down to the first step only then welding in whats left 
in the middle and while I'm there already might as well do a pop-up.

But for $35 a 353 meteor seems like a reasonable option...

That and most of the free/cheap 350's I get are toasted so the pistons aren't useable anyway.
I think I'm up to 7 of them now...


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## modder (Aug 18, 2013)

wcorey said:


> Deck the cylinder or deck the block, six 'o one, half dozen 'o the other.
> Unless doing the block is easier/cheaper for you of course.
> I'm set up so it only takes 5 minutes to do the cylinder so no big deal, though I
> only wish I could cut the squish band that quickly. Those are a bit of a pain to set up...
> ...



I wondered also if it would be too thin between the ring and top. Could risk apiece breaking off and then I'm in for a new P&C. Thanks for the advice, my original plan of a 353 piston would probably be best. I kinda regret selling my 2149. I would rather have the magnesium case but I cant keep them all............unless I change the lock on my garage and tell the wife they don't make spare keys anymore. She keeps giving me that annoyed look out of the corner of her eye, every time she sees another saw on the bench. I could get that band cut but I'm told that is extremely expensive. :smile2:


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## modder (Aug 19, 2013)

Question. Back several pages, someone spoke of omitting the transfer cover gaskets. I don't understand the benefit to doing this. Would that not reduce the volume of the transfers, therefore reducing performance. I had thought of putting in a thicker gasket to easily increase transfer volume, then raise and widen them to accommodate for lowering the squish. Maybe my understanding on that post is not correct, or there is something I'm not getting. Someone also mentioned swapping the jug out for a 42mm 346OE and getting good gains. They mentioned they did it because thats what they had on hand at the time, so I can appreciate that, but in my case, wouldn't I get the most gains from a flat top pistons and some porting, or is the 346 jug just so superior that it will produce more hp than my 45mm jug even if I do some porting.


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## redunshee (Aug 23, 2013)

*Husky 353 going*

Finally got the saw reassembled and running. Runs fine but I noticed it would stall occassionally, Happened to look at clutch while running and noticed sparks were coming between the cluth and sprocket. Thought I had forgotten to install the spacer/ washer between the two but IPL doesn't show one. Possibly the clutch springs are streched out so I may need to replace them. Can't think of another reason for the friction.


Bob


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## moody (Aug 23, 2013)

modder said:


> Question. Back several pages, someone spoke of omitting the transfer cover gaskets. I don't understand the benefit to doing this. Would that not reduce the volume of the transfers, therefore reducing performance. I had thought of putting in a thicker gasket to easily increase transfer volume, then raise and widen them to accommodate for lowering the squish. Maybe my understanding on that post is not correct, or there is something I'm not getting. Someone also mentioned swapping the jug out for a 42mm 346OE and getting good gains. They mentioned they did it because thats what they had on hand at the time, so I can appreciate that, but in my case, wouldn't I get the most gains from a flat top pistons and some porting, or is the 346 jug just so superior that it will produce more hp than my 45mm jug even if I do some porting.



Volume isn't always a good thing. Velocity makes a world of difference. Know anything about air rams? 

I can do the same numbers on a saw. But on one I increase volume and my transfers don't increase velocity it'll be lazy and very unforgiving. What happens to fuel/air mixtures when they slow down?......... they don't mix and you don't get s complete burn aka waste of power. Not everything needs a grinder put to it.


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## modder (Aug 23, 2013)

moody said:


> Volume isn't always a good thing. Velocity makes a world of difference. Know anything about air rams?
> 
> I can do the same numbers on a saw. But on one I increase volume and my transfers don't increase velocity it'll be lazy and very unforgiving. What happens to fuel/air mixtures when they slow down?......... they don't mix and you don't get s complete burn aka waste of power. Not everything needs a grinder put to it.



I don't know anything about air rams on saws, unless you are talking about crank stuffers, which reduce the volume of the crank case and increase velocity, pressure and mix the fuel and air more effectively....unless I understand it wrong. I have played with ram air systems on bikes and cars and increasing pressure does a lot for the fuel\air mixture and can increase power when done properly, but saws are a completely different animal, even when comparing them to 2 stroke bikes.
I've had lots of ideas running through my head on how to get some more juice from my 2150 but I'm still learning so I tend to ask lots of questions and I'm sure others have had many of the same ideas and may have tried some of them already. I'm trying to prevent some disappointing results. I was thinking that the original jug would be easier to port since you can remove the covers, and adding a carb from a 357xp would provide the additional air and fuel to accomodate the larger volume ports (once opened up). I also thought adding thicker gaskets to the port covers would be a quick way to increase port volume as long as the openings to the combustion chamber were widened also. As I understand it, the transfers should narrow slightly as they go up, with the ports opening to the combustion chamber being slightly narrower than those at the bottom of the cylinder, to provide proper velocity and mixture. Does any of that make sense, or is my head on backwards.


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## moody (Aug 23, 2013)

modder said:


> I don't know anything about air rams on saws, unless you are talking about crank stuffers, which reduce the volume of the crank case and increase velocity, pressure and mix the fuel and air more effectively....unless I understand it wrong. I have played with ram air systems on bikes and cars and increasing pressure does a lot for the fuel\air mixture and can increase power when done properly, but saws are a completely different animal, even when comparing them to 2 stroke bikes.
> I've had lots of ideas running through my head on how to get some more juice from my 2150 but I'm still learning so I tend to ask lots of questions and I'm sure others have had many of the same ideas and may have tried some of them already. I'm trying to prevent some disappointing results. I was thinking that the original jug would be easier to port since you can remove the covers, and adding a carb from a 357xp would provide the additional air and fuel to accomodate the larger volume ports (once opened up). I also thought adding thicker gaskets to the port covers would be a quick way to increase port volume as long as the openings to the combustion chamber were widened also. As I understand it, the transfers should narrow slightly as they go up, with the ports opening to the combustion chamber being slightly narrower than those at the bottom of the cylinder, to provide proper velocity and mixture. Does any of that make sense, or is my head on backwards.



A 2 stroke is no different. Air rams and transfers have a common ground. Air fuel mix travels then build pressure and is released. It may only be momentary on a 2 stroke but it happens. I'm not trying to argue or be rude but when you read up some more just shoot me a message. You seem to know the answers already because I explained it once.


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## tolman_paul (Aug 23, 2013)

Reducing your transfer volume has the same effect as adding stuffers to the crank and hence increases the pumping efficiency of the engine. The "crankcase" volume is really the volume in the crankcase, under the piston and in the transfer passages. The transfer passages need to be large enough so that they don't constrict the flow from the crankcase and into the cylinder, but ideally no larger. Removing the gaskets would be one way to improve pumping efficiency if the passages are larger than needed, you could also build them up with aluminum epoxy and smooth out any abrupt transitions.


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## wcorey (Aug 23, 2013)

> I was thinking that the original jug would be easier to port since you can remove the covers,



I assume you mean easier than a 346 without the removable covers?
Easier to do the uppers yes but with the 359 and 350 the lowers are a convoluted shape and require more work than on a 357 or 346.
So which is really easier?




> As I understand it, the transfers should narrow slightly as they go up, with the ports opening to the combustion chamber being slightly narrower than those at the bottom of the cylinder, to provide proper velocity and mixture.



I agree, this has been my understanding also. The shape of the curve leading into the combustion chamber also plays a big part in this as far as directing the charge across the piston.




> I also thought adding thicker gaskets to the port covers would be a quick way to increase port volume as long as the openings to the combustion chamber were widened also.




Yes but there's still the question of if there's already sufficient volume and more velocity is what's need instead. Also you may be only assuming the lower transfer opening can be made large enough otherwise there would be no need to create more volume in the middle of the transfer than the lower opening can support.

IMHO if the volume in the middle is increased toward the outer wall and has more cross section than the lower opening, the charge will just choose the straightest path through.
It will not need to follow the outer radius and get the benefit of of being smoothly transitioned/directed out the uppers but rather go right up the inside wall and hit the top of the upper openings at a tangent before being pushed into the cylinder. 
This would seem to act much like a straight up open port design, except instead of hitting a radius on top to help direct it out, some charge could then go back toward the (more or less unused in this case) outer/middle part of the transfer and cause turbulence. 

If you were to follow/match the added outside area/radius with material added to the inside horizontal divider, then that might get you something...


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## modder (Aug 24, 2013)

wcorey said:


> I assume you mean easier than a 346 without the removable covers?
> Easier to do the uppers yes but with the 359 and 350 the lowers are a convoluted shape and require more work than on a 357 or 346.
> So which is really easier?
> 
> ...



Thanks for the clarity. That makes a lot of sense. You have answered my questions well. One of the reasons I was asking about getting more power out of the 2150 jug over the 346 was because I read a post a while back about someone saying they could get more performance out of the 359 jug over the 357 jug by porting. That would be comparable to this situation. I wondered if it was accurate and if so, if it were possible for an amateur like myself. I have noticed the intake of the transfers doesn't look as accepting of smooth flow and the ports to the combustion are of completely different angle in the 2150 (and the 359). I appreciate those that take the time to explain stuff to those that are still learning, and am sorry to those that get frustrated by explaining stuff over and over. The reason why I joined this site is because a person can ask questions and have the chance of getting an answer from someone that knows their stuff. When reading text books, or just reading info online, you can't ask specific questions.


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## moody (Aug 24, 2013)

modder said:


> Thanks for the clarity. That makes a lot of sense. You have answered my questions well. One of the reasons I was asking about getting more power out of the 2150 jug over the 346 was because I read a post a while back about someone saying they could get more performance out of the 359 jug over the 357 jug by porting. That would be comparable to this situation. I wondered if it was accurate and if so, if it were possible for an amateur like myself. I have noticed the intake of the transfers doesn't look as accepting of smooth flow and the ports to the combustion are of completely different angle in the 2150 (and the 359). I appreciate those that take the time to explain stuff to those that are still learning, and am sorry to those that get frustrated by explaining stuff over and over. The reason why I joined this site is because a person can ask questions and have the chance of getting an answer from someone that knows their stuff. When reading text books, or just reading info online, you can't ask specific questions.



I'm sorry for acting frustrated. I'm a friendly person and I go out of my way to help folks. It's just a little irritating for me to answer your questions and get a rebuttal. There's tons of reading on this site. If you have trouble finding information start a thread. Ask short specific questions and take notes. Often times when you break a question into pieces you'll get not only a better understanding but more usable information. If you want to know about case volume and how it affects a saws performance then ask.


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## Homelite410 (Aug 24, 2013)

I am out of popcorn.


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## mweba (Aug 24, 2013)

Homelite410 said:


> I am out of popcorn.



Need a tooth pick? :msp_confused:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mweba1/8466979040/" title="Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8368/8466979040_e86bfa0cf6_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a>


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mweba1/8465875055/" title="Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8245/8465875055_bbf0ed2448_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a>

I like to do em this way so I can quickly swap between configurations while testing. The and the end user can toss on a new jug and slug if thing go wrong...


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## Homelite410 (Aug 24, 2013)

mweba said:


> Need a tooth pick? :msp_confused:
> 
> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mweba1/8466979040/" title="Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8368/8466979040_e86bfa0cf6_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a>
> 
> ...



Nice lathe Mitch


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## modder (Aug 24, 2013)

moody said:


> I'm sorry for acting frustrated. I'm a friendly person and I go out of my way to help folks. It's just a little irritating for me to answer your questions and get a rebuttal. There's tons of reading on this site. If you have trouble finding information start a thread. Ask short specific questions and take notes. Often times when you break a question into pieces you'll get not only a better understanding but more usable information. If you want to know about case volume and how it affects a saws performance then ask.



Sometimes amateurs just don't know how to ask the questions properly...I guess that's me. The way I've learned what I have, has been by asking questions, reading, asking more questions, seeing someone do it, and do it myself. I didn't go to school (at least not for this stuff) like many pro builders, so sometimes, probably many times, I'm going to ask questions that make you slap yourself on the forehead and get frustrated and think WTF. Don't worry, you wont scare me off by getting annoyed that I don't know everything about modding that you do. I fully expect you and the other full timers will know more that the average hobbiest. If you didn't, you wouldn't be in business. Maybe someday I will know as much, but not today. Please don't think that I haven't spent way too many hours going through old threads and stickies. I bet if you were building a house with me, or building a late 60's GM muscle car from scratch, you would be asking questions that would drive me crazy....even though there is enough literature out there to spend a lifetime reading. Remember, many on this site don't do this stuff full time, but i'm sure we all do something full time.


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## traktorz (Sep 2, 2013)

*Using rim-type drive on HVA 350 / Jonsered CS2150*

The product line of farmer saws usually have sprocket type drives, where as the professional saws preferably are equipped with rim-type chain drive wheels.

I have the intention of upgrading our Jonsered CS2150 to rim-type, and found that a test swap with the drive wheel from our CS2152 didn't directly fit. On the IPL I found that the oil pump drive wheel is what differs! Anyone with experience, that already has made this modification and has a suitable part number?

*Ref*:
♦ http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/237587.htm
♦ http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/243679.htm
♦ Husqvarna 350 / Jonsered CS2150 ringdrev | skogsforum.se


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## bluesportster02 (Sep 24, 2013)

just bringing a great thread back to life :msp_biggrin:what carb do you think is better on the ported 350. zama or the walbro. on the 359 every one seems to like the walbro better when they work right


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## moody (Sep 24, 2013)

bluesportster02 said:


> just bringing a great thread back to life :msp_biggrin:what carb do you think is better on the ported 350. zama or the walbro. on the 359 every one seems to like the walbro better when they work right



Walbro for sure.


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## ChainFinn (Sep 25, 2013)

traktorz said:


> The product line of farmer saws usually have sprocket type drives, where as the professional saws preferably are equipped with rim-type chain drive wheels.
> 
> I have the intention of upgrading our Jonsered CS2150 to rim-type, and found that a test swap with the drive wheel from our CS2152 didn't directly fit. On the IPL I found that the oil pump drive wheel is what differs! Anyone with experience, that already has made this modification and has a suitable part number?
> 
> ...



I had this 2150, and i wanted to use a 8 pin chain sprocket in it. I took the clutch drum, from one old 346xp oe, and discovered that, the 2150´s original pump drive gear, that pale plastic thing WILL work with the 346´s clutch drum. They have worked now for months. The splines are thinner in 346 drum, than the grooves in the 2150 pump gear , so theres a small slack&gap, but so far, not a problem of any kind.


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## machinisttx (Jan 26, 2014)

Bumping this thread since I'm not the only one with a saw from this series in need of repair.


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## modder (Sep 7, 2014)

I picked up a 2149 not long ago with a 44mm jug but not an open port. The jug is identical to the 2150, just smaller bore. I know its the original jug cause I know the guy who bought it new. I picked up this one because of the mag case and lack of a riser block to leak down the road. I was frowned on by a few for removing the divider in the riser but Husqvarna must have felt it was not needed because it is not on any of the mag cases. I later realized that the divider in the start of the transfers, that is on the riser was made that way to match up with the open port jugs. I had a box of jugs given to me and matched one up. I think they just never changed them because they were lowering the power anyway and it would no doubt cost more to change. I have learned a lot since the 2150 builds last year, due to this site and a local dealer that likes to grind on saws in his spare time, but I still have a way to go.

Don't let this thread go dead guys, its a good one.


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## SawTroll (Sep 7, 2014)

modder said:


> I picked up a 2149 not long ago with a 44mm jug but not an open port. The jug is identical to the 2150, just smaller bore. I know its the original jug cause I know the guy who bought it new. I picked up this one because of the mag case and lack of a riser block to leak down the road. I was frowned on by a few for removing the divider in the riser but Husqvarna must have felt it was not needed because it is not on any of the mag cases. I later realized that the divider in the start of the transfers, that is on the riser was made that way to match up with the open port jugs. I had a box of jugs given to me and matched one up. I think they just never changed them because they were lowering the power anyway and it would no doubt cost more to change. I have learned a lot since the 2150 builds last year, due to this site and a local dealer that likes to grind on saws in his spare time, but I still have a way to go.
> 
> Don't let this thread go dead guys, its a good one.



I believe you regarding the 44mm closed port 2149, as it isn't the first one I heard of. However, I don't think there are that many of them out there, likely something they did right before deciding to go 45mm and 353/2152 instead?

Do you have the serial number of that saw?


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## tbone75 (Sep 7, 2014)

modder said:


> I picked up a 2149 not long ago with a 44mm jug but not an open port. The jug is identical to the 2150, just smaller bore. I know its the original jug cause I know the guy who bought it new. I picked up this one because of the mag case and lack of a riser block to leak down the road. I was frowned on by a few for removing the divider in the riser but Husqvarna must have felt it was not needed because it is not on any of the mag cases. I later realized that the divider in the start of the transfers, that is on the riser was made that way to match up with the open port jugs. I had a box of jugs given to me and matched one up. I think they just never changed them because they were lowering the power anyway and it would no doubt cost more to change. I have learned a lot since the 2150 builds last year, due to this site and a local dealer that likes to grind on saws in his spare time, but I still have a way to go.
> 
> Don't let this thread go dead guys, its a good one.


First I have heard of a 44mm closed port , very interesting ! Bet that could be a rare one !!


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## nmurph (Sep 7, 2014)

Yes, they are out there, and yes, they are rare. Dan Henry was commenting about them a couple of weeks ago.


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## SawTroll (Sep 7, 2014)

nmurph said:


> Yes, they are out there, and yes, they are rare. Dan Henry was commenting about them a couple of weeks ago.



I know.....


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## modder (Sep 7, 2014)

SawTroll
Here is the serial # 02 1900 121. The numbers above the serial are 966 09 04 00 (part # I assume). I assume it is an 2002 built saw. It was bought new in 2004. Does that help shed some light on the closed port 2149....
The squish is now at .019inch and runs awesome. I had my spare HDA 199 on it but ran waaayyy too rich and couldn't lean it out, so I need to put the new kit in it just like I had to with the others, but it still runs very good with the factory walbro on it. Doesn't quite have the balls my 254xpg with MM has, but its not that far off. It makes my 445 xtorq look like a girly saw. (wish I never bought that one but I guess that discussion belongs in another thread.


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## SawTroll (Sep 7, 2014)

2002 week 19, so another late one (if it wasn't the same one that appeared in another thread?). Anyway, it fits with my little theory about them being late production/experimental. That 44mm closed port never made it into an "official" model.

That "part number" is the part number for the complete powerhead (also called "item number").

.019" sounds fine to me, but there isn't a lot of margin left.


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## modder (Sep 7, 2014)

I never posted the serial # before and the old fella that had it since new would not be interested in doing something like that. I did see another mention a 2002 closed port in another thread a few weeks ago, so we can be sure its not a 1 off saw. I was thinking that the closed port 2149 was the jonny version of the OE346, but from what I read, that was a different jug all together.


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## SawTroll (Sep 7, 2014)

Surely it was different, the OE346xp cylinder was 42mm/45cc vs. 44/49.4cc for this one, and made and ported in a different way by Mahle.

The 351/2149 was the original "budget" version of the 346xp/2147, and replaced as such by the 353/2152 late 2002.


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## cus_deluxe (Sep 7, 2014)

im gonna have to look into some of this. I also have a 340 that has been a great little saw for the last 7 or 8 years and runs just as well now as it did when i bought it. that said, i wouldnt say no to a little more power...


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## old-cat (Sep 7, 2014)

Here's a look at my 350 hot rod innards


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## modder (Sep 7, 2014)

Is that a 346xp after market jug!!! It looks a bit lighter than a new one. I foresee some critiques for grinding on those transfer dividers on the riser but mine still worked great when I did it. I just wish I had put an untouched one on mine after so I could see for sure if it made any difference


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## old-cat (Sep 7, 2014)

modder said:


> Is that a 346xp after market jug!!! It looks a bit lighter than a new one. I foresee some critiques for grinding on those transfer dividers on the riser but mine still worked great when I did it. I just wish I had put an untouched one on mine after so I could see for sure if it made any difference



I ran mine with the pictured cylinder and untouched base, then took it apart and did the base. It sure seemed to make more power the second time!
That's a Meteor cylinder


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## Mattyo (Sep 7, 2014)

So, after looking at your base and mine, yours is a bit more aggressively cut. why not cut that central "fin" (between the transfers) out completely? seems almost silly to have it.


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## old-cat (Sep 7, 2014)

I think it is beneficial to guide the air flow upward, I grind it down to a v shape.


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## Mattyo (Sep 7, 2014)

seems to me like its best to literally have a knife edge at the top of that fin (and the edge towards the connecting rod), and to not grind it down vertically... if guidance upward is the ticket... 

then the real trick is to line up the knife edges between the base and the cylinder head  

my issue is that I haven't seen many other photos of ported (modded) base adapters other than yours... I would figure that there'd be lots of them...no?


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## old-cat (Sep 7, 2014)

This is only my first attempt, playing around, I don't have access to a dyno I can only play, just like you!
The little 350 has NO respect, few people want to even mess with it. It can be a tad bit troublesome, air leaks, muf screws falling out, etc. etc.


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## Mattyo (Sep 7, 2014)

I ruined a cylinder because my head screws were too long.... torqued the head screws down and fired it up... it fired and ran.... and died. this happened last year. figured it out last night. m5 x 8 x 25mm cylinder head screws need to lose 50 thousanths otherwise they bottom out. DOH!


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## old-cat (Sep 7, 2014)

Mattyo said:


> I ruined a cylinder because my head screws were too long.... torqued the head screws down and fired it up... it fired and ran.... and died. this happened last year. figured it out last night. m5 x 8 x 25mm cylinder head screws need to lose 50 thousanths otherwise they bottom out. DOH!



I took .035" off my base then tried to bolt the cyl on to chk squish. HaHaHa! No go! I had to take off about an eighth inch.


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## Mattyo (Sep 7, 2014)

I took off .020... and still use a gasket.... I didn't check for squish at all because plenty of people do gasket delete w/o checking... so I figured 20 thou was ok ... so far so good


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## SawTroll (Sep 8, 2014)

Mattyo said:


> I took off .020... and still use a gasket.... I didn't check for squish at all because plenty of people do gasket delete w/o checking... so I figured 20 thou was ok ... so far so good



Doing such hings without checking the squish hardly is advisable!


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## SawTroll (Sep 8, 2014)

Mattyo said:


> I ruined a cylinder because my head screws were too long.... torqued the head screws down and fired it up... it fired and ran.... and died. this happened last year. figured it out last night. m5 x 8 x 25mm cylinder head screws need to lose 50 thousanths otherwise they bottom out. DOH!



Spike60 has written about which bolts to use a few times - I believe he recommended the 346xp ones?


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## Mattyo (Sep 8, 2014)

I should have caught the bolt issue... its here in this thread a few places, just didn't see it. One day I'll go through this thread and pull out the pearls and put them in one post


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## modder (Sep 8, 2014)

When I did mine, I removed the divider completely, but a few members advised against is because doing so increased case volume. I also cut the riser down and did some heavy grinding to re-shape the transfers to copy the shape of the 346 and 357 transfers as best I could. (it was a 2150/350 jug) I widened the intake, raised and widened the exhaust, opened the muffler added a hand made base gasket and shaved a little from the top of the piston to get proper squish. I used a 357 intake boot and HDA 199 carb but to be honest, I didn't see much gained from the 357 carb. I sold the saw after getting it dialed in to a friend whom already had a 2150 because he really liked how much power and cutting speed it has over his stock saw. He uses it as his primary saw and the other as backup. The only complaint he has is, its hard on fuel.


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## SawTroll (Sep 8, 2014)

modder said:


> ..... The only complaint he has is, its hard on fuel.




That is natural, with the mods you made, with a larger carb, more transfer capasity and more open muffler.


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## Barnaby (Oct 20, 2014)

So I have a stock 350 that has a scored piston (45 lbs pressure), so I purchased a new meteor piston from Bailey's, as well as intake manifold upgrade, gaskets, filters, fuel line and piston bearing. I had to sand some scratching of cylinder exhaust side after removing bonded piston aluminum with acid. Then during reassembly I noticed the new and old pistons are different sizes. "45" is stamped on the cylinder and the new meteor piston is 44mm. I went ahead and reassembled it anyway, not knowing the outcome of whether the ring would seal. The saw is testing at 30 lbs pressure now. Is this 44mm piston the sole cause of this, or is it my cylinder, or both? What would be your suggestion on how to proceed?


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## Mattyo (Oct 20, 2014)

I think this one is pretty obvious. If it says 45 on the top of the cylinder, get a 45mm piston. The thing I've seen recommended is a 353 piston, which doesn't have a dished top. Try that and see what you get for compression. 

I think the more pertinant question is one I'm going to use to hijack this... is there are difference between 44mm pistons and 44.3mm pistons? I had the same issue w/ an aftermarket cylinder that I cleaned up, and the saw wouldn't start after I put a new aftermarket 44mm piston in it... so I'm wondering ... do 3 variants exist? 44mm, 44.3 and 45?


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## modder (Oct 20, 2014)

The 44mm piston is for the old 2149, 2147, and the 346 oe. It is way too small to work. You need the 45mm piston for it to work. As long as you didn't take the naskil coating off the cylinder and it is not gouged badly, your cylinder should be fine. After installing the proper piston, you may want to do a vacuum test to be sure the crank seals are still good.


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## weimedog (Oct 20, 2014)

Here is my experiences .. documented on video. They are a lot of fun if you are a mechanical type AND have a reason to cut wood.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtw-MqiEnI4FqI4p_gjbHg3fsoykcdazS


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## Barnaby (Oct 20, 2014)

Mattyo said:


> I think this one is pretty obvious. If it says 45 on the top of the cylinder, get a 45mm piston. The thing I've seen recommended is a 353 piston, which doesn't have a dished top. Try that and see what you get for compression.
> 
> I think the more pertinant question is one I'm going to use to hijack this... is there are difference between 44mm pistons and 44.3mm pistons? I had the same issue w/ an aftermarket cylinder that I cleaned up, and the saw wouldn't start after I put a new aftermarket 44mm piston in it... so I'm wondering ... do 3 variants exist? 44mm, 44.3 and 45?


Can I use the 353 piston w/o other modifications? I just want it running again soon, it is as if part of me is dead right now....If I can't cut wood, I feel useless. thanks for the information.


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## Barnaby (Oct 20, 2014)

modder said:


> The 44mm piston is for the old 2149, 2147, and the 346 oe. It is way too small to work. You need the 45mm piston for it to work. As long as you didn't take the naskil coating off the cylinder and it is not gouged badly, your cylinder should be fine. After installing the proper piston, you may want to do a vacuum test to be sure the crank seals are still good.


I used some 220 grit followed by 1000 grit, don't think I took too much off the cylinder. Thanks for giving me some direction. I'll look for a 45 mm piston, any suggestions? How does one do a vacuum test?


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## Mattyo (Oct 20, 2014)

353 piston needs no mods....it is flat top instead if dished....it has more compression


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## weimedog (Oct 20, 2014)

Barnaby said:


> I used some 220 grit followed by 1000 grit, don't think I took too much off the cylinder. Thanks for giving me some direction. I'll look for a 45 mm piston, any suggestions? How does one do a vacuum test?


 

eBay. the 44 mm 350's were the "open port" versions & the 45's were the cylinders with the "caps" on the side. 353's also had that cylinder.

The 45mm:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/METEOR-BRAN...163?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c4da9503

The 44mm (open port cylinder) from episan.. also a good piston.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Piston-Kit-...946?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27dbcfac72


I've also had good luck with golf brand pistons for the 44mm 350's


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## Full Chisel (Oct 20, 2014)

Great thread, I dunno how I missed this one.

I love my 350, it's got a flat topped 353 piston in the stock 45mm cylinder and has no guts whatsoever in the muffler, just a can with two bolt channels, a hole and the deflector. Good power, great exhaust note. I'm going to try a loop of Stihl RM yellow semi-chisel on it if I can find some, it doesn't seem to like the LPX with the .325 configuration in hardwoods...too aggressive with that many cutter heads. Might also try some BPX and compare with the Stihl chain.

One thing I have noticed is that it seems to be a bit stingy with oil in the cut. Is that normal with these saws? It does get oil to the bar and drivers, just not as much as I'm used to. After a longer cut there is usually just a slight film on the drivers and the cutters are dry.


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## Barnaby (Oct 20, 2014)

Mattyo said:


> 353 piston needs no mods....it is flat top instead if dished....it has more compression


Ok, I'll give it a try, thanks


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## Mattyo (Oct 20, 2014)

No prob. I'd still like to know if there are 3 variants... 44, 44.3 and 45? or just 44.3 and 45mm?

-Matt

ps, i love my 350's too... really quite handy


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## Barnaby (Oct 20, 2014)

Full Chisel said:


> Great thread, I dunno how I missed this one.
> 
> I love my 350, it's got a flat topped 353 piston in the stock 45mm cylinder and has no guts whatsoever in the muffler, just a can with two bolt channels, a hole and the deflector. Good power, great exhaust note. I'm going to try a loop of Stihl RM yellow semi-chisel on it if I can find some, it doesn't seem to like the LPX with the .325 configuration in hardwoods...too aggressive with that many cutter heads. Might also try some BPX and compare with the Stihl chain.
> 
> One thing I have noticed is that it seems to be a bit stingy with oil in the cut. Is that normal with these saws? It does get oil to the bar and drivers, just not as much as I'm used to. After a longer cut there is usually just a slight film on the drivers and the cutters are dry.


Sounds as if the 353 piston is the way to go. This is my "big" saw, my other is an echo cs330 with new bar and chain on the way, haven't used it in years but it started right up the other day when I gave it a pull. I do wish my chains would stay sharp longer on the 350, maybe my chain oil feed needs to be increased somehow, or it's just the nature of the narrow kerf chain type. not sure.


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## Barnaby (Oct 20, 2014)

Mattyo said:


> No prob. I'd still like to know if there are 3 variants... 44, 44.3 and 45? or just 44.3 and 45mm?
> 
> -Matt
> 
> ps, i love my 350's too... really quite handy


I don't know about size variants. The 350 has been my favorite tool. It has been reliable, very good power/weight match for what I need. I don't think I would be happier with any other saw, and so despite my time and money into this, it is well worth the effort if I can get 'er runnin again.


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## Full Chisel (Oct 20, 2014)

Barnaby said:


> Sounds as if the 353 piston is the way to go. This is my "big" saw, my other is an echo cs330 with new bar and chain on the way, haven't used it in years but it started right up the other day when I gave it a pull. I do wish my chains would stay sharp longer on the 350, maybe my chain oil feed needs to be increased somehow, or it's just the nature of the narrow kerf chain type. not sure.



You should try running semi-chisel if you are cutting with full chisel and having issues with chain dulling quickly. Full chisel is aggressive but wears faster, especially in abrasive conditions like dirty wood. When I'm bucking up logs that are on the ground, I will cut them almost all the way through with good sharp chain and then either switch the chain out or grab another saw with chamfer/semi-chisel to finish the cut. Crappy safety chain is good to use for this.


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## Mattyo (Oct 20, 2014)

weimedog, like the vids btw... nice job

-Mattyo


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## SawTroll (Oct 21, 2014)

Mattyo said:


> ..... so I'm wondering ... do 3 variants exist? 44mm, 44.3 and 45?



Yes, and you do of course need the right size.



modder said:


> The 44mm piston is for the old 2149, 2147, and the 346 oe. ......



The OE 346xp use a 42mm piston.



Barnaby said:


> Can I use the 353 piston w/o other modifications? .....



Yes.


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## Mattyo (Oct 21, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> Yes, and you do of course need the right size.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Does this mean there are actually 4 variants? 
42, 44, 44.3, 45?


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## SawTroll (Oct 21, 2014)

Mattyo said:


> Does this mean there are actually 4 variants?
> 42, 44, 44.3, 45?



Regarding bore sizes, yes. Then comes different variants of each size....


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## Mattyo (Oct 21, 2014)

Interesting. ..maybe that was why my other saw wouldn't start...I think I was using a farmtec piston 44mm on a different am cylinder ...the piston that came with the cylinder cooked because it wasn't tight enough against the base gasket....cylinder bolts too long....I figured the cylinder was toast but maybe not...44.3 meteor ordered.....we'll see what happens!


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## old-cat (Oct 21, 2014)

Mattyo said:


> Interesting. ..maybe that was why my other saw wouldn't start...I think I was using a farmtec piston 44mm on a different am cylinder ...the piston that came with the cylinder cooked because it wasn't tight enough against the base gasket....cylinder bolts too long....I figured the cylinder was toast but maybe not...44.3 meteor ordered.....we'll see what happens!



Another thing about these Husky 350s is the base adapter to plastic case mating surface is not machined flat, so it's a leak just waiting to happen! I sandpaper the adapter and file the plastic just enough to make them flat. I also am using 3 bond sealer now, which I think is much better than Yamabond.


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## Mattyo (Oct 21, 2014)

I've got a tube of loctite 515 that I've been using...seems to work ok

I clean the base of the adapter with my random orbit sander


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## traktorz (Oct 21, 2014)

Full Chisel said:


> ...
> One thing I have noticed is that it seems to be a bit stingy with oil in the cut. Is that normal with these saws? It does get oil to the bar and drivers, just not as much as I'm used to. After a longer cut there is usually just a slight film on the drivers and the cutters are dry.



The adjustable oiler on the equivalent Jonsered CS2150 in our possession delivers a wealth of oil. At least for the 13" 0.058" bar we are using. Be sure that the bar is sufficiently clean on both sides in the area with the two mounting holes, that's a tip I got from our Husqvarna dealer.


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## Full Chisel (Oct 21, 2014)

I'm religious about cleaning the bar rail and oil inlet holes. The oiler just doesn't want to put a lot of oil to the bar, even set at max flow.


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## SawTroll (Oct 21, 2014)

Full Chisel said:


> I'm religious about cleaning the bar rail and oil inlet holes. The oiler just doesn't want to put a lot of oil to the bar, even set at max flow.


Could simply be that parts in the oiler are blocked or wore out.

Anyway, if you have a rim and drum on there - take a close look at the oiler gear - it isn't a 100% fit, and may wear faster than normal....


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## Barnaby (Oct 21, 2014)

Full Chisel said:


> You should try running semi-chisel if you are cutting with full chisel and having issues with chain dulling quickly. Full chisel is aggressive but wears faster, especially in abrasive conditions like dirty wood. When I'm bucking up logs that are on the ground, I will cut them almost all the way through with good sharp chain and then either switch the chain out or grab another saw with chamfer/semi-chisel to finish the cut. Crappy safety chain is good to use for this.


thanks for the info on chains, I certainly have plenty to learn about chains and that tidbit might do me a world of good.


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## Mattyo (Oct 21, 2014)

I like the "grab another saw" idea personally. Much easier to sharpen chains when you aren't on the job... and/or on the clock.


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## Full Chisel (Oct 21, 2014)

Barnaby said:


> thanks for the info on chains, I certainly have plenty to learn about chains and that tidbit might do me a world of good.



The biggest thing is keeping them clear of the dirt. Of course, if you are able to roll the log or branch to finish the cut, you don't have to bother switching out the chain or saw. But sometimes there is no choice, like when you are bucking up a downed tree or branch that is too big or too onery to move.


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## calee (Jan 20, 2015)

moody said:


> Yup the oiler and chain tensioner are the only differences. No big deal there. They'll do just as well.





mweba said:


> Need a tooth pick? :msp_confused:
> 
> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mweba1/8466979040/" title="Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8368/8466979040_e86bfa0cf6_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a>
> 
> ...





Mattyo said:


> I think this one is pretty obvious. If it says 45 on the top of the cylinder, get a 45mm piston. The thing I've seen recommended is a 353 piston, which doesn't have a dished top. Try that and see what you get for compression.
> 
> I think the more pertinant question is one I'm going to use to hijack this... is there are difference between 44mm pistons and 44.3mm pistons? I had the same issue w/ an aftermarket cylinder that I cleaned up, and the saw wouldn't start after I put a new aftermarket 44mm piston in it... so I'm wondering ... do 3 variants exist? 44mm, 44.3 and 45?


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## Mattyo (Jan 20, 2015)

nice quotes.... was there a question in there somewhere? 

thanks for digging up this thread for me...i gotta go through it and pull out the gems...and there are plenty...gotta compiles a "once and for all 350 advice repository  )


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## calee (Jan 20, 2015)

Sounds good. Thanks for the good info.


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## Mattyo (Jan 20, 2015)

Ok, so here's where I'm on on THIS project... base adapter plate has been cut by .45 thousanths or so... squish now bang on around .020.... I got lucky on that cut. 

Timing numbers now... 109, 128, 76 on the hyway kit. I'm gonna grind the exhaust up to 100 ...and the transfers up to 120.... but I was thinking about leaving the intake alone.... yes...no? 

I'm using the MM method I saw on youtube with the ring in the cylinder to mark the degrees .... i'll be cutting to that. oh, and I'm taking video of the whole thing


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## Mattyo (Jan 21, 2015)

Anyone care to comment on the timing I should aim for here? Doing some reading reveals that I don't need to grind the exhaust much more the 105...but what should I aim for on blowdown?


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## old-cat (Jan 21, 2015)

Mattyo said:


> Anyone care to comment on the timing I should aim for here? Doing some reading reveals that I don't need to grind the exhaust much more the 105...but what should I aim for on blowdown?


When I read that you were going to grind the ex to 100, I almost replied to tell you not to. Glad you did your homework. Randy just spilled the beans in his great pop-up controversy thread "formula for exhaust timing"


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## tree monkey (Jan 21, 2015)

Mattyo said:


> Anyone care to comment on the timing I should aim for here? Doing some reading reveals that I don't need to grind the exhaust much more the 105...but what should I aim for on blowdown?


around 20


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## Mattyo (Jan 21, 2015)

yes... I read that too  

frankly not a matter of spilling the beans or not... there needs to be some basic formula to follow... after doing this, its no wonder Randy, or any other builder, doesn't charge way more for what they do. 

so, i'll grind down to 105...thats easier AND less likely to perf the cylinder wall.... ok... whats the target for blowdown? 18-20? I was watching weimedog's video on the 350's and he noticed that blowdown on the 346xp stock was around 18 ... vs on the 350's was about 20ish. any benefit to grinding to an 18 degree blowdown?


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## Mattyo (Jan 21, 2015)

thanks treemonkey....didn't see your post before I posted...slow typer


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## bluesportster02 (Jan 21, 2015)

i take the intake to around 80 on mine


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## Mattyo (Jan 21, 2015)

That's what I figured. ...but I don't want to cut too much...


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## Mattyo (Jan 21, 2015)

Transfers are ground to 125 or so....needed to use the dental hand pieces to get in there...


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## Mattyo (Jan 21, 2015)




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## Mattyo (Jan 21, 2015)

Was experimenting with carbides and diamonds....and polishers....lots of work....props to the builders out there!

If I was going to do this on a more regular basis... I'd change a couple things.. #1, I'd have a vacuum setup on my bench. The dust is just silly. #2, I'd have different diamonds and carbides... the ones I have are perfect for teeth, but not porting. The polishers work ok... but still chatter a bit. Anyway, I'm happy w/ the result, though its nowhere near builder quality... Still, I think my dad is going to be happy with this saw


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## sunfish (Jan 21, 2015)

A dentist should be pretty good at this.


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## Mattyo (Jan 21, 2015)

My skill with a drill is fine....bit I don't have the right burrs and polishers for this particular job....not that it can't be done right...but would be far better if I had some differnt diamonds....oh...that and if I knew WHERE to cut hahhahba


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## zogger (Jan 21, 2015)

Mattyo said:


> My skill with a drill is fine....bit I don't have the right burrs and polishers for this particular job....not that it can't be done right...but would be far better if I had some differnt diamonds....oh...that and if I knew WHERE to cut hahhahba



If you didn't go too nuts with it, I think you could get in the ballpark on some of the more common saws that the pros here have done build threads on, where you can see the before and during and after pics, including the lines they draw inside the cylinder before grinding.

Plus 1 on a dust collector.

Or maybe a very light continuous water bath with a filter? err...maybe not, proly throw water all over....


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## lefturnfreek (Jan 21, 2015)

Don't try water, big time bath and no vision of what your doing....use vacuum.


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## redunshee (Jan 22, 2015)

Sounds like a foolish question but aren't the seals and bearings separate pieces? My new 350 came (1998 build date) and in looking at the IPL there is only one part # for the combined parts I also tried w/o success to separate the two. If they are separate items is there some trick I'm missing?


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## old-cat (Jan 22, 2015)

The only way to get the seal off the bearing is to destroy it, it's a bear to get the new seal back on.


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## redunshee (Jan 22, 2015)

old-cat said:


> The only way to get the seal off the bearing is to destroy it, it's a bear to get the new seal back on.


OKay, now I know why I was having difficulty. Looks like there is a metal sleeve around the inside of the seal. Maybe I'd be better off just buying the combined seal and bearing.
Also the piston is toast but the cylinder might be saved. Not sure this is the route I want to take, however. Either a 353 P&C or a 44.3 /45 mm kit. Kafar seems to have a nice one on Ebay but the piston looks kinda dull. NOt sure if its the pic or not.


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## Mattyo (Jan 22, 2015)

I don't think you can buy the bearing and seal together .... best to buy the best bearings you can ... MM recommends Nachi... 6202's I think... open bearings, not sealed. 

I haven't used the kafar 44.3 kit yet... but I wouldn't worry too much about the dull piston... that wouldn't bother me anyway, the ring does the seal, and as long as the plating is ok you're good


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## Mattyo (Jan 22, 2015)

Zogger, MM and Brad posted pics of their 350 / 346xp jug work but the pics are no longer visible (2010, 2011 stuff) So I'm not going nutso on this, just gonna time the exhaust, widen the exhaust a touch, square it up, bevel, play with the intake a bit too. I really don't know much what else to do to the transfer ports. I smoothed them out, beveled, and adjusted the timing, but I'm worried that if I hog them out I'd lose velocity.


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## bluesportster02 (Jan 22, 2015)

under the trans covers some people grind the divider thinner and some grind it all off, i have done it both ways and dont think there is much difference so i take it out on them now


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## old-cat (Jan 22, 2015)

Mattyo said:


> Zogger, MM and Brad posted pics of their 350 / 346xp jug work but the pics are no longer visible (2010, 2011 stuff) So I'm not going nutso on this, just gonna time the exhaust, widen the exhaust a touch, square it up, bevel, play with the intake a bit too. I really don't know much what else to do to the transfer ports. I smoothed them out, beveled, and adjusted the timing, but I'm worried that if I hog them out I'd lose velocity.


You're not getting any velocity in those transfer ports anyway. Just look inside them then compare that to the oem .


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## old-cat (Jan 22, 2015)

redunshee said:


> Also the piston is toast but the cylinder might be saved.


Randy has said that the plating is too thin on that cylinder, you're better off getting a better cylinder...Yes you can get bearings and seals pre-assembled


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## Mattyo (Jan 22, 2015)

Old cat....do your have a part # on previous assembled bearings? ....I've never seen it....and I'd want to assemble them anyway with my preferred bearings


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## Mattyo (Jan 22, 2015)

old-cat said:


> You're not getting any velocity in those transfer ports anyway. Just look inside them then compare that to the oem .



Pics?


Not understanding how there isn't velocity in am ports.... are they simply larger than oe?


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## old-cat (Jan 22, 2015)

I assumed you were talking about the Hyway quad port cyl. you have, the Meteor quad port cylinder is virtually identical. The transfer ports are curved, directing the air toward the center of the cyl. BUT the inside of those ports next to the cylinder has no curvature, it's just a big cavern in there.


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## Mattyo (Jan 22, 2015)

I'll have to take pics of the hyway I have... not sure if I agree w/ "it's just a big cavern in there" ... the angle at the top of the transfer is likely quite acute ... which may slow down velocity

so if you have pics of an OE stock port I'd love to see it, and likewise I'll get a pic of the hyway kit. 

from your above statement its also unclear if the meteor kit is close to OE or closer to the hyway one....


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## old-cat (Jan 22, 2015)

Mattyo said:


> I'll have to take pics of the hyway I have... not sure if I agree w/ "it's just a big cavern in there" ... the angle at the top of the transfer is likely quite acute ... which may slow down velocity
> 
> so if you have pics of an OE stock port I'd love to see it, and likewise I'll get a pic of the hyway kit.
> 
> from your above statement its also unclear if the meteor kit is close to OE or closer to the hyway one....


The Hyway and Meteor AM kits are virtually identical. Sorry no pictures, I sold both the ones I had. The OEM I'm referring to is the 346 ne.
When you look inside the transfer port, the inner side is straight up the cyl. wall. The outer side of the port is curved, it is not a port, it's just a big hole.


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## Mattyo (Jan 22, 2015)

Ah, now I got what you mean. ...though I'm pretty sure the hyway is curved on both the inner and outer aspects... i'll post pics later when I get at the cylinder. Also need to have proper lighting... i'll work on it. 

I can understand the port not having as good velocity if the inner wall isn't curved similar to the out wall... if the inner wall IS the cylinder wall that's just weird... would make most sense if the transfer port diameter ... or better yet .... "cross sectional area" was unaltered throughout its whole profile.... then velocity would be constant ... 

maybe meteor finds it easier to manufacture w/ a cavern?


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## Mattyo (Jan 22, 2015)

Gotta disagree. ..the hyway is curved.. The curve definitely moves away from the cylinder wall, around a corner, and back into the cylinder... its actually quite smooth, especially after I massaged it a bit


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## old-cat (Jan 22, 2015)

Mattyo said:


> Gotta disagree. ..the hyway is curved.. The curve definitely moves away from the cylinder wall, around a corner, and back into the cylinder... its actually quite smooth, especially after I massaged it a bit
> 
> View attachment 397075


Can you give a link to the kit?
Here's the one I was referring to; http://www.weedeaterman.com/product_p/h30353.htm


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## Mattyo (Jan 22, 2015)

pretty sure its the same one, got it on ebay though from Canada...


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## old-cat (Jan 22, 2015)

Mattyo said:


> pretty sure its the same one, got it on ebay though from Canada...


45 mm?


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## Mattyo (Jan 22, 2015)

the only ones on ebay now are from UK... I assume they are all the same... but I dunno.... 

that and the 3r kit and the kafar kit... which are both 44.3mm


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## Mattyo (Jan 22, 2015)

yes, its 45mm


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## old-cat (Jan 22, 2015)

Mattyo said:


> the only ones on ebay now are from UK... I assume they are all the same... but I dunno....
> 
> that and the 3r kit and the kafar kit... which are both 44.3mm


I'd sure like to know what kit you got


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## Mattyo (Jan 22, 2015)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/27130153125...l?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=271301531255&_rdc=1


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## old-cat (Jan 22, 2015)

There's definitely a difference in what you have and what I had. 
Quality control issue?


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## Mattyo (Jan 22, 2015)

bought that this summer ... I bought 2 ... so I'll take the other one apart eventually and see whats up... .


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## Mattyo (Jan 23, 2015)

okay, got the saw back together. I don't have much in the way of pics...but I've got the whole thing on video... really not looking forward to editing this all down...but I will get to it. 

compression is 160 psi dry ...first couple pulls.... which is a little dissappointing...but I'll run some gas through it and see where we end up.


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## Mattyo (Jan 23, 2015)

Well, it don't run. Just figured out why. The piston is hitting the spark plug ...and jamming the gap shut! squish is perfect .020-.022 .... now I gotta mod the spark plug? anyone got a model # for a .040" shorter plug?


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## old-cat (Jan 23, 2015)

Put two washers on the plug


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## Mattyo (Jan 23, 2015)

I had the same thought.... and it worked.... nice. 

BUT.... still didn't run. swapped the coil... no go... took the carb apart and cleaned it... now it runs. the saw needs fuel for sure... and the tune seems touchy.... but it definitely revs! gonna hand it back to dad and see what he says...


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## Brentc (Feb 2, 2015)

Hey guys I've read through this thread a few times. I purchased a new metal ring to swap out the plastic from the carb the head the plastic boot and and ring are a sing molded piece. Did you guys just slip the metal ring over the plastic. Thanks guys.


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## old-cat (Feb 2, 2015)

Two ways you can do; File all high spots off the old partition, plastic clamp or buy the updated partition.


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## Brentc (Feb 2, 2015)

Thanks old cat. That was my next move just wasn't sure if it would still seal properly.


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## old-cat (Feb 2, 2015)

Brentc said:


> Thanks old cat. That was my next move just wasn't sure if it would still seal properly.


You have to go all the way around that plastic, get all the little bumps off. Then to get that clamp on easier, file a tiny bevel on the smaller latch part so it will slide into the square hole like a door latch.


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## raumati01 (Mar 14, 2015)

I just scored one of these for $100 with 3 chains , the thread on the cylinder where the muffler bolts into is sloppy . I only really bought because of this thread, I hope you're pleased with yourselves.

Whats the best carb for these saws?


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## old-cat (Mar 14, 2015)

raumati01 said:


> Whats the best carb for these saws?


Probably the one you have if it's OEM


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## raumati01 (Mar 14, 2015)

I think I remember seeing in this thread that the earlier carbs were better, this saw is a couple of years old.


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## traktorz (Mar 14, 2015)

I think our old Jonsered CS2150 from year 2002 has a Walbro HDA 154B carburetor. It's still like new in it's original shape and the saw performs great. Runs on Aspen alkylat fuel of course.


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## old-cat (Mar 14, 2015)

raumati01 said:


> I think I remember seeing in this thread that the earlier carbs were better, this saw is a couple of years old.


Every one I have used has worked PERFECTLY. You can't improve on that!


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## Superdude (Jul 15, 2016)

Hey fellas, 

I'll be picking up an early-ish 340 for very little sometime soon, and I've been told it runs but the top end is a bit average.
So I'm keen on chucking a 45mm top end on it, I was considering the 346 44.3mm but after finding the 45 with single ring and closed ports, I'd like to go this way.
I'd like to know which one is the one to go for out of the Meteor or Hyway (or another kit)?
I'll also be getting the riser block of course and a couple of other bits.
I'm looking to run without the base gasket (providing squish is good) and a muff mod. not looking to mess with porting.

Also, what difference is there between the intake boots? I've read a few times of people putting a 357/359 one on.

Anything else required or things that should be done?


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## Mattyo (Jul 15, 2016)

Have a look at the youtube link in my sig. My channel has lots of 350 stuff on it


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## SawTroll (Jul 15, 2016)

Superdude said:


> Hey fellas,
> 
> I'll be picking up an early-ish 340 for very little sometime soon, and I've been told it runs but the top end is a bit average.
> So I'm keen on chucking a 45mm top end on it, I was considering the 346 44.3mm but after finding the 45 with single ring and closed ports, I'd like to go this way.
> ...



OEM 44.3 mm likely still is the best option - how good a high quality 45 mm one is likely will depend on if it is a "copy" of the 353 one, or if it is an actual attempt to improve on the 44.3 mm OEM one - and of course the quality of the product.

With the current price picture, I really don't see any reason to not go OEM.


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## old-cat (Jul 15, 2016)

OEM is the ONLY way
The after market p/c things are a joke.
You don't need 357 intake parts unless you have a high quality porting job


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## SawTroll (Jul 15, 2016)

old-cat said:


> OEM is the ONLY way
> The after market p/c things are a joke.
> ....



I basically agree, but there are/have been a few AM ones that can be made very good runners by an expert on porting etc. Those are the exceptions though, and repeatability can't be trusted, as production (usually) is inconsistent.


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## Superdude (Jul 15, 2016)

Thanks fellas.
To be honest I was hoping to hear "yeah go for it, they work well for what they are" haha.

So the aftermarket really isn't that great eh?
My understanding from my mate who I'm getting the saw off of (works at the local Husqvarna shop) was that for the price of a new genuine piston and cyl, I would come close to actually buying a proper 2nd hand 346.
I havn't gotten actual prices though.

May just try and get the most out of the existing setup first before heading down this road.

I'm willing to clean the ports up a bit, but I've only got a dremel with basic attachments, but not willing (at the moment) to mess with port timing and size.


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## Mattyo (Jul 15, 2016)

Aus prices may be different....but over here as of Jan 1 oem cylinder prices have come down far enough to make the aftermarket nearly irrelevant. 

What cylinders can you get in AUS? and for what kind of $$??


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## Superdude (Jul 15, 2016)

I'll have to get back to you on what's available and their pricing, but he hinted high prices.
Australian prices are usually quite a bit higher than the US (and other places).

It'll be nice if they are indeed cheap enough to justify.
It is after all, 95% used for fire wood, and would be nice if it could reasonably run an 18" bar or so.
Running a 15" on my brothers Rancher 40 at the moment and it's about it's limit it seems but always seems to be just that little bit too short.


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## Mattyo (Jul 15, 2016)

my 350's can run 20" bars...but I prefer them at 16" ...and mine are heavily modded. 

for your purpose, oem will likely be the way to go, but depending on availability in AUS ...it may be cost prohibitive. If you can ship stuff easily from the US, then thats different.


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## Superdude (Jul 16, 2016)

A 16" would probably be enough actually, but an 18" would do the majority a lot quicker.
Biggest we fell is around 2' or so in diameter.

The other use of the saw will be clearing trees and such over tracks when we're going off road.

Issue with buying stuff from the US at the moment is our weak dollar and shipping costs.


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## Full Chisel (Jul 16, 2016)

My 350 with the ported 44.3mm top end is aftermarket from weedeaterman and that thing runs like a banshee. It has held up well so far with about 10 tanks of fuel through it. It also has the tree monkey modified HDA199 carb. That saw is no joke!


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## Kyler Monares (Aug 15, 2016)

Subscribed! Awsome thread


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## Mattyo (Nov 24, 2016)

DO NOT USE LOCTITE 515 OR 518 for the bearing cup to chassis union for 350s. 

I'll have a video coming soon....I've rebuilt a dozen 350s at least and just had a failure directly related to the bearing cup seal. metal to metal is good....metal to plastic is nogo....

@Tor R was right


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## Mattyo (Nov 24, 2016)

I'm trying threebond 1184 for the bearing cup...I think it'll be better. 


515 518 works fine for base gasket replacement or on the intake rubber....but no good against the plastic chassis.

Gonna have proof too in vid form...


I dont remember the thread where tor mentioned it was ng against plastic....sorry tor...


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## svk (Nov 24, 2016)

Subscribed. My 350 will finally be coming to life in the next week.


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## Mattyo (Nov 24, 2016)

I should have the video done saturday....stay tuned


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## beavis331 (Nov 26, 2016)

Just bought a roached pair of 350s on eBay! Thinking of OEM 353 p&c kits. I see Bailey's has them for $110. Anyone have a better source?


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## Mattyo (Nov 26, 2016)

Yes...use the oem 346XP kit...105.shipped from @spike60


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## SawTroll (Nov 26, 2016)

Mattyo said:


> Yes...use the oem 346XP kit...105.shipped from @spike60




Absolutely!


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## Mattyo (Nov 26, 2016)

The oem 350 kit has one advantage, its got removable transfer covers to allow for fiddling with the ports without having to buy right angle handpieces. ie, a dremel tool works fine for porting that particular kit. all else being equal, the oem 346xp kit stock is likely best.


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## Mattyo (Nov 26, 2016)

Oh, and fedex fudged up my shipping... their site says the new piston kit for my 350 is still in Florida since the 23rd... odd. called fedex, was on hold for a while, now they are calling me back. we'll see if it even shows up. anywho, I don't have a verdict yet on the sealer... but i'm pretty sure 1184 is going to be the ticket for the bearing cup ... NOT 518 or 515. 518 or 515 are fine for base gasket ... metal on metal is ok.


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## Mattyo (Nov 28, 2016)

Here it is!

518 vs 1184


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## redunshee (Nov 28, 2016)

Mattyo said:


> Here it is!
> 
> 518 vs 1184




Did you have to use a cylinder gasket due to squish number or do you normally use one. I typically don't. Just curious. I also use Dirko and it seems to work well.


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## Tor R (Nov 28, 2016)

Mattyo said:


> DO NOT USE LOCTITE 515 OR 518 for the bearing cup to chassis union for 350s.
> 
> I'll have a video coming soon....I've rebuilt a dozen 350s at least and just had a failure directly related to the bearing cup seal. metal to metal is good....metal to plastic is nogo....
> 
> @Tor R was right


we had quite a bit discussion on another forum, I hoped it should not give one airleak but I feared it would.
Hopefully it was only the piston you had to swap and that you could fix the cylinder Matt


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## Mattyo (Nov 28, 2016)

I'm doing the saw assembly soon....will see how it goes. I think I saved the cylinder . ..we shall see.

Yes...I do use a gasket...coated with 518....which DOES work fine.

I've seen 518 used for base gasket material by itself . ..it works. against plastic is a zero though...


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## Jerriod Raab (Jan 14, 2017)

This my chainsaw husky 340. 
I burnt a piston up due to a crank bearing seal failure. When I started cleaning it I noticed that the side that bearing seal went bad on is burnt a little bit. Now my question is, is the bottom half toast or can I still use it?
Thanks for any info it been a dang good saw


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## Mattyo (Jan 14, 2017)

I'd still use it. Check my vids on my youtube channel for extensive info on rebuilding these....


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## Jerriod Raab (Jan 14, 2017)

Thank you Mattyo I watched some of your vids on new jug on one.


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## SawTroll (Jan 14, 2017)

Jerriod Raab said:


> This my chainsaw husky 340.
> I burnt a piston up due to a crank bearing seal failure. When I started cleaning it I noticed that the side that bearing seal went bad on is burnt a little bit. Now my question is, is the bottom half toast or can I still use it?
> Thanks for any info it been a dang good sawView attachment 550744
> View attachment 550743



I don't really see a problem, as long as the crank bearings still fits as they should in the case.

You do of course have to find out what caused the damage, and fix it. If not, basically the same thing will happen again.


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## Jerriod Raab (Jan 14, 2017)

SawTroll said:


> I don't really see a problem, as long as the crank bearings still fits as they should in the case.
> 
> You do of course have to find out what caused the damage, and fix it. If not, basically the same thing will happen again.


Saw troll all I know right off hand is that bearing whore out. It fell apart when I toke it apart. So I would say that it over heated.


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## svk (Jan 15, 2017)

Just dropping back in here. Did anyone figure out if you can put a 3/8 low profile sprocket on these saws?


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## SawTroll (Jan 16, 2017)

svk said:


> Just dropping back in here. Did anyone figure out if you can put a 3/8 low profile sprocket on these saws?



Possibly, but it is a fairly "long shot". I understand that you can fit the rim and drum system from the 346xp etc on them, and then you likely can fit a standard 7-spline one for the 357xp etc as well (the challenge may be the oil pump drive). There are 7-pin 3/8 lo-pro rims made for that one, by GB, on special order from a (mail order) sales company in the UK. They are quite expensive for sprocket rims, and I have doubts about GB rim quality based on some random posts. Another possibility is "pin-type" rims made by Danzco etc, but they (Danzco) haven't listed such rims in some time.

A 7-pin 3/8 lo-pro may well be a bit much on these saws, unless the top end has been upgraded.

Personally I don't consider it worth doing - but some may....


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## SawTroll (Jan 20, 2017)

A couple of service bulletins that may be relevant in this thread.

Credit to @ray benson for making those and hundreds of others available to me in a format that is compatible with my computer etc!


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## Mattyo (Jan 20, 2017)

uh, neither of those make sense...

I have never seen a bearing cap that was not interchangable with any cylinder. the only fitment issue I have had to accomodate has to do with going from the 346xp oe 42mm piston to 45mm pistons ... they knock on the deck a bit and a relief cut needs to be made. ...which is in my 346xp build vids. maybe what they are talking about has to do with the coarse thread caps vs fine thread? 

the 2nd one shows /notes the updated removable transfer cover cylinder, but the photo is of a 346xp NE cylinder.... without the removable covers.


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## SawTroll (Jan 20, 2017)

Mattyo said:


> I have never seen a bearing cap that was not interchangable with any cylinder. the only fitment issue I have had to accomodate has to do with going from the 346xp oe 42mm piston to 45mm pistons ... they knock on the deck a bit and a relief cut needs to be made. ...which is in my 346xp build vids. maybe what they are talking about has to do with the coarse thread caps vs fine thread?
> 
> the 2nd one shows /notes the updated removable transfer cover cylinder, but the photo is of a 346xp NE cylinder.... without the removable covers.



All the 351 SB really does is to confirm that the last months of 351/2149 saws systematically came from the factory with a 44 mm closed port cylinder - it wasn't just a few 2149s. That cylinder is a Husky made 44 mm version of the same basic design as the 45 mm one of the 353, 2149 and EPA 350/2150 from the point the other IPL tells. I concluded that the illustration is misleading as well, it is "generic" I assume....

Like you, I also was surprised that the 350 SB mentioned a different bearing cap/cylinder base for the new cylinder. Not that it isn't sort of logic, just that nobody I know of has had problems with it. I assume the difference it minor, and of little to zero practical consequence.

I have just learned that there were "a zillion" SBs (=updates) on the 346 and 350 family saws in the early 2000s, but most of them had nothing to do with the top ends.


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## Mattyo (Feb 14, 2017)

455 rancher clutch cover does fit... and some other tips:


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## SawTroll (Feb 15, 2017)

SawTroll said:


> All the 351 SB really does is to confirm that the last months of 351/2149 saws systematically came from the factory with a 44 mm closed port cylinder - it wasn't just a few 2149s. That cylinder is a Husky made 44 mm version of the same basic design as the 45 mm one of the 353, *2152* and EPA 350/2150 from the point the other IPL tells. I concluded that the illustration is misleading as well, it is "generic" I assume....
> 
> Like you, I also was surprised that the 350 SB mentioned a different bearing cap/cylinder base for the new cylinder. Not that it isn't sort of logic, just that nobody I know of has had problems with it. I assume the difference it minor, and of little to zero practical consequence.
> 
> I have just learned that there were "a zillion" SBs (=updates) on the 346 and 350 family saws in the early 2000s, but most of them had nothing to do with the top ends.



There was a misprint in the quoted post, that is *corrected* in the quote.


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## Chainganger (Mar 1, 2017)

Mattyo said:


> 455 rancher clutch cover does fit... and some other tips:





I am now doing my third 350 and the thing that drives me over the edge is that stupid, cheap, no good, rotten, worthless chain tensioner so I will be on the look out for a used 455 Rancher clutch cover!

You will have to report back and confirm that the pressure put on the bar by this new clutch cover works to press the bar against the oiler hole properly so it still oils the chain nicely while running. 

You know, you would not want the law of unintended consequences biting you in the >>>>>, I know it does me on a regular basis.


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## Mattyo (Mar 1, 2017)

I don't have much time on the saw, so yes, I'll eventually report back on the new clutch cover.

I really really like the rancher clutch cover. It really adds a nice touch to the saw.


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## SawTroll (Mar 2, 2017)

Mattyo said:


> 455 rancher clutch cover does fit... and some other tips:





That clutch cover comes with a cover mounted chain adjuster, which is something I avoid when I can. The original case mounted adjuster of those saws works fine - I don't agree at all that they are annoying, even though there are better case mounted ones out there (mainly on pro Stihl saws).

It isn't a big deal though, and you always can reverse the process.

Also you are lowering the quality of the saw with putting the 455 cover on it.

There are other things in the video that I agree with though.


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## Northerner (Mar 2, 2017)

Good timing for this thread to pop up, has anyone removed and replaced the oil tank vent on a 345? I've got a leaker and it seems the vent is plugged.


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## Mattyo (Mar 2, 2017)

SawTroll said:


> That clutch cover comes with a cover mounted chain adjuster, which is something I avoid when I can. The original case mounted adjuster of those saws works fine - I don't agree at all that they are annoying, even though there are better case mounted ones out there (mainly on pro Stihl saws).
> 
> It isn't a big deal though, and you always can reverse the process.
> 
> ...



This is my favorite saw and I use it more often than anything else.... usually cutting cants as they come off the mill. if I eventually sell it I can reverse the process like ya said, but this mod I did for myself. I really didn't like that case mounted chain adjuster. ...not that it doesn't work. 



Northerner, I don't think I'd removed a 350 oil tank vent. But, if you want to know if its plugged or not you can stick a pin in it...its just a valve. stick a pin in it and work the valve. ...some brake cleaner in there to blow it out might help as well.


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## Chainganger (Mar 2, 2017)

Mattyo said:


> This is my favorite saw and I use it more often than anything else.... usually cutting cants as they come off the mill. if I eventually sell it I can reverse the process like ya said, but this mod I did for myself. I really didn't like that case mounted chain adjuster. ...not that it doesn't work.
> 
> 
> 
> Northerner, I don't think I'd removed a 350 oil tank vent. But, if you want to know if its plugged or not you can stick a pin in it...its just a valve. stick a pin in it and work the valve. ...some brake cleaner in there to blow it out might help as well.




He might have the hockey puck looking vent(s) then I would not stick a pin in it, brake cleaner shot at it might help

I have seen these where the vent was simply missing too, there is a replacement that looks like a plastic plug with a nipple on one side, the nipple to the outside.


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## Northerner (Mar 3, 2017)

I think I got the vent open now. Buttttttttt, like always, one thing leads to the next issue. Long story short, I've torn the whole thing apart now. First it was the oil leak, then I noticed the spur sproket was done, then I figured I would change out the plastic intake clamp with a steel one, so that lead to taking the whole thing apart.
Then I saw some light transfer happening on the intake
Side of cylinder, fixable, checked bearings, hhhmmm, one side kinda rough, so need bearings with seals.....aaarrrghhh!
Just bought the saw for a side line project, now iam in neck deep, going way over what I wanted to spend into it, but she's gonna be like new when iam done.
What do you guys use for a sealer for the clam shell?
I've got some ultra blue high temp stuff and some permatex aviation form a gasket in the shop.


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## Northerner (Mar 3, 2017)

Some pics, light dose of straight gas at some point? Some rough edges along the port sides iam a little concerned about.


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## Mattyo (Mar 3, 2017)




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## Mattyo (Mar 3, 2017)

that transfer looks like intake debris ... ie.. filter wasn't doing its job, overclogged... 

this saw would be far better off with a ..... new P&C ... not because the one you have is bad, but because the 346xp P&C is just that much better

I understand you are on a budget. My 350 (saw #5 in my vids) I now have probably $400 into. i'm not even sure 350's were that pricey brand new. They do suck up some bux, but they really work well once you get them sorted. 

don't forget to get a muffler support... and check my other vids for tips... lots more info on my channel


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## svk (Mar 3, 2017)

I have around $200 into my initially free 350. Every single moving part except for the rod bearing has been replaced and the saw is basically brand new and now runs great.

After a few project saws that turned into money pits I have learned to do a complete diagnosis of a saw before getting into it.


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## Northerner (Mar 3, 2017)

Thanks Matt, I watched that vid last nite yet. So has this 3 bond been proven yet much? I don't know what's all avalible here, we have limited resources. 
I would like to go the 346xp route, but this saw just to fix and sell. Do good if I break even now. 
Here is the kicker, the guy I bought it from claims he does the same kinda work, "fix" saws. Figured out he just gets saws running, not necessarily fixed.


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## Mattyo (Mar 3, 2017)

1184 is a proven product...and will be THE thing I use for these bearing caps for the forsee able future.

I've sold many 350s....spent way too much money and sold them on....most of the time I lose money.


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## Northerner (Mar 3, 2017)

Not much luck with search function, can I press the bearings out of the seals? Dealer wants 36 bucks a piece.....
Also found this stuff there, anyone try it?


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## Chainganger (Mar 3, 2017)

Chainganger said:


> He might have the hockey puck looking vent(s) then I would not stick a pin in it, brake cleaner shot at it might help
> 
> I have seen these where the vent was simply missing too, there is a replacement that looks like a plastic plug with a nipple on one side, the nipple to the outside.




My fault, I misread this, he said oil tank vent, not gas tank vent....Never Mind!


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## SawTroll (Mar 3, 2017)

Northerner said:


> Thanks Matt, I watched that vid last nite yet. So has this 3 bond been proven yet much? I don't know what's all avalible here, we have limited resources.
> I would like to go the 346xp route, but this saw just to fix and sell. Do good if I break even now.
> Here is the kicker, the guy I bought it from claims he does the same kinda work, "fix" saws. Figured out he just gets saws running, not necessarily fixed.




The 346xp route likely is the best way to go in the 50cc class, particularly if you factor in handling (which you should). Also, they are the 50cc saws that have the basically most sound top end design (non strato quad transfer closed port, with ample metal to work with), that takes best to basic porting (as always it has to be done right of course).


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## Chainganger (Mar 17, 2017)

I am doing another one of these and am using one with a primer bulb tank but will be using a non-primer carburetor. Rather than just blocking off the return line nipple for gas that would otherwise come back into the tank from the primer bulb, I added an ECHO tank vent there so now there are two, like this ...


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## WadePatton (Jan 5, 2019)

WHOOOOOOOOOOOOT! 

just found this thread. 

So I've got some reading to do. I got my 2145 apart and the jug and slug look fine, the crap on the slug wiped off--BUT the bearings feel like crap. So now I'm ordering bearing and seals and re-jugging it just the same. 

Also scorched pretty bad on top of the oil tank I may clean up and fill some of that. 

THANKS in advance to the contributors to this thread. I've a 2150 and a 2145.

How did I get two "twin" saws? Well, the 2145 was stolen, replaced with 2150, then 2145 was recovered with engine and bar burned up--had it rebuilt (and got compensated because the boy was yet in jail) and it was great for quite a while. Then it got "balky" and didn't want to start. So I looked into the E port and saw metal on the piston, shelved it for later. NOW is later.


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## WadePatton (Jan 5, 2019)

Done. Found the source of odd metal in my case appears to be the bearings cage dealio came apart on the starter side.

Some bits of that metal were in the case and some is yet attached and hitting the crank--that's where the odd feel was coming from.

Anyhoo I think I got my two in the early 00's, and this overhaul of the 2145 will be followed by the 50.


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## WadePatton (Jan 6, 2019)

I need a case. (nevemind, I'm fixing this one)

Turns out that the starter side bearing got hot enough to deform the plastic case. I'm debating epoxying the thing back to plumb. But the BEST option is a fresh case I'm sure. Also, maybe I should start a thread.

Once removed from case, the bearings felt fine--but the balls are no longer spaced properly in one side. That pup has been hot. Of course, because I didn't do the original overhaul, I have no idea how much of this happened at my hand. Matters not in the end, because I gotta fix it.


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## rupedoggy (Jan 6, 2019)

Also shows typical loose muffle damage


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## WadePatton (Jan 6, 2019)

rupedoggy said:


> Also shows typical loose muffle damage



Of course it does, but tha's not my primary concern. Tank ain't leaking you know. I recall hearing a loose muff and tightening it up while in the woods many years ago, but also the crooks had dented the muffler and burned up the bar they had on it, plus the original bar (forever lost), so I don't know how much I did or how much they did. I let the dealer fix it. I know it ran good for a number of years after the initial overhaul. Oil tank hasn't been an issue.

Hey I started a thread: https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...2150-2145-jonsereds-and-husky-350-etc.328034/


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