# Long term experience with Poulan Pro 5020?



## zuren (Apr 27, 2015)

Does anyone have any long term feedback of the Poulan Pro 5020? By long term I mean 2-3 years of advanced homeowner level use. I see that guys bought these in other threads and would like to hear if the saw is still going strong or if they already failed. From what I have read, Poulan Pro is made by Husqvarna.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/poulanreg;-pro-pp-5020-av-20-in-chainsaw

My wife and I bought a home with 5 acres last fall. The previous owner never cleaned up any of the storm damage over the years so I have trees laying or leaning everywhere. My current green Poulan 2025, for a 'throw away saw' has served me well but the 14" bar is too small. I need 18-20" to be able to get anything done. 

I know there are 'better brands' out there and I don't want this to become a comparison thread; I can't afford a $400+ saw at the moment and have wood to clean-up now. I just know that I take care of my Poulan and it hasn't let me down in 8 years, and I'm the 2nd owner. The $200 price point for 50cc saw with a 20" bar is attractive. I see that guys bought these in other threads and would like to hear if the saw is still going strong or if they already failed. I do my own repairs so buying a box store saw with no dealer/repair support isn't much of a concern.

I'm also considering the Jonsered 2250 but would like to keep the discussion focused on the PP5020.

Thanks for your feedback!


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## Jon1212 (Apr 27, 2015)

Here's a thread from a couple of years ago by @Modifiedmark. It is chock full of very useful information.

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...ulan-pro-5020-to-see-what-there-about.192321/


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## Guido Salvage (Apr 27, 2015)

What the hippie says...


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## CTYank (Apr 27, 2015)

Mine's still going strong three-years-on, running as well as when new, or maybe a tad better after I got a Husqy carb tool and adjusted it a bit richer to near optimum. On cleaning it out recently, I couldn't help noticing that the clutch sprocket was badly worn- replacement going in shortly. Point there is that it's had some serious runtime, cutting my firewood and clearing storm damage from a variety of NY parks, Audubon Centers and Land Trust reforestation projects. Gas it & go.

Not perfect, had a few minor probs:
fuel filter fell off line in tank- snip line & reinsert;
air filter, as stock, lets some dust past- tiny bead of silicone put a stop to that;
nuts that retain carb worked loose- pull plastic bits in the way, dap of LocTite, done;
OEM 20" bar is an oddball, with 70 DL, vice all the other K095 bars out there that take 72, so you deal with it.

Power output is adequate for running OEM b&c buried in hickory. Of course, the chain is kept sharp; aren't they all?  One very good option is a 16" b&c, for a variety of reasons.

Strato-scavenging yields great fuel-endurance & makes life easier for nearby air-breathers.

A/V is excellent, inherited from Husqy. The combo of power and a/v prompted a bud to drop his stihl 250 & get a 5020.

Recommended mix ratio of 40:1 not a problem. I now run everything from my 17 cc Homelite hedge-trimmer to 576 Husqy on that.

The 5020 overall is a smidge hefty, and a bit bulky, but for the $180 mine cost, it's a real value for lighter felling & bucking, and most limbing. As others have noted, 50 cc saws are so good at most tasks, that they are go-to saws. Much less sweat packing one out into the woods than some big-iron. 

The 5020 is NOT a Stihl, in that it's easily serviced without being tempted to rip out plastic poo that's blocking your access. Also non-Stihl-like, parts are available online all over the place cheap. How 'bout a piston for $6?

IMHO total no-brainer. VMInnovations-dot-com will put a factory-refurb on your doorstep for $181, if you can't find one locally. If you buy it new, you also get a pretty tough black plastic (reduced thief attraction) carrying case with lots of room for stuff.


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## Jon1212 (Apr 27, 2015)

CTYank said:


> Mine's still going strong three-years-on, running as well as when new, or maybe a tad better after I got a Husqy carb tool and adjusted it a bit richer to near optimum. On cleaning it out recently, I couldn't help noticing that the clutch sprocket was badly worn- replacement going in shortly. Point there is that it's had some serious runtime, cutting my firewood and clearing storm damage from a variety of NY parks, Audubon Centers and Land Trust reforestation projects. Gas it & go.
> 
> Not perfect, had a few minor probs:
> fuel filter fell off line in tank- snip line & reinsert;
> ...



I know that a K/A041 can be modified with minimal effort to fit a K/A095 mount. Shouldn't the converse be possible?

Also, our local C-A-L Ranch store has the refurb 5020's without the case for just under $140 OTD. After your post I am toying with the idea of picking one up to have as a "helper" saw.


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## Philbert (Apr 27, 2015)

See them on sale NIB for $179 periodically, and I recall at least one AS member finding a refurb for under $129.

Philbert


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## CTYank (Apr 27, 2015)

Jon1212 said:


> I know that a K/A041 can be modified with minimal effort to fit a K/A095 mount. Shouldn't the converse be possible?
> 
> Also, our local C-A-L Ranch store has the refurb 5020's without the case for just under $140 OTD. After your post I am toying with the idea of picking one up to have as a "helper" saw.



The 5020 bar MOUNT is K095, small-Husqy. The OEM 20" bar takes 70 DL chains vs the normal 72 DL for a 20" K095-MOUNT bar.
I've used two bars fitting that description, just fine thank you, the OEM 20" bar and an Oregon PowerMatch 20", with chains 70 DL or 72 DL respectively. Besides 16" PowerMatch. All work great, thanks. Even the OEM "Vanguard" chain can be gotten to work just fine.

The only wild-card in the bunch is the #DL for the OEM bar. Same thing as happens with Echo CS-590, I'm told.

I bought my 5020 as backup for my 455r Husqy, and found increasing use for the Poulan. I'll bet the same thing happens to you, Jon. I'm still "blaming" @Modifiedmark for spreading the word about the PP5020. Thanks again, Mark.

Should mine get stolen or run over, I'd get another in a heartbeat.


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## Jon1212 (Apr 27, 2015)

I don't know why I thought it was a K041 as OEM? I'm just a dirty hippie.

I do find it odd after using the Oregon selector guide that both the OEM, and non OEM are K095, yet the OEM bars require 70dl vs the standard 72dl for that mount.

My level of interest, and intrigue has now increased even further.


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## CTYank (Apr 27, 2015)

Jon1212 said:


> I don't know why I thought it was a K041 as OEM? I'm just a dirty hippie.
> 
> I do find it odd after using the Oregon selector guide that both the OEM, and non OEM are K095, yet the OEM bars require 70dl vs the standard 72dl for that mount.
> 
> *My level of interest, and intrigue has now increased even further*.



Moi aussi! Once I had a grip, so to speak, on that, my mission was clear- to avoid obfuscation. (Seems I failed here. Oh well.) The mount is only a small part of the bar.

Luckily for me I had a bunch of old 3/8" chains to cobble up into 70DL loops, some chipper even. Don't have a heart attack now, Niko. Nor about the semi-chisel chains I love on this saw.


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## Chris J. (Apr 27, 2015)

Philbert said:


> See them on sale NIB for $179 periodically, and I recall at least one AS member finding a refurb for under $129.
> 
> Philbert


 
I bought my PP5020 rebadged as a Craftsman with the case for a bit under $60.00, but that was pure luck (right place at the right time).


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## CTYank (Apr 27, 2015)

Chris J. said:


> I bought my PP5020 rebadged as a Craftsman with the case for a bit under $60.00, but that was pure luck (right place at the right time).



Yeah, tell us that you got the 10-year Craftsman warranty too, and maybe some extra chains thrown in. No free hat? Yer fishing for a "YOU SUCK" you must know.


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## Chris J. (Apr 27, 2015)

CTYank said:


> Yeah, tell us that you got the 10-year Craftsman warranty too, and maybe some extra chains thrown in. No free hat? Yer fishing for a "YOU SUCK" you must know.


 
Oh yeah. I received plenty of "You suck!!" comments when I first mentioned it, in Mark's PP5020 thread IIRC.

It was return. I'm guessing that Sears just tossed in with other returns and sold them off in lots. The small warehouse where I bought it had a bunch of Craftsman line trimmers, chainsaws, & some blowers. Interesting note, now that I think about it--All of the Craftsman equip was 2-cycle, and almost all of them were in boxes.......so maybe they weren't returns.


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## Chris-PA (Apr 27, 2015)

I suspect the 70DL is because you can commonly buy 70DL chains at places like HD, but not 72DL. Yes it's Tri-Link, but I use it. My McCinderblock SE3420 (PM605) uses 70DL chains, and I believe some other older saws did as well.


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## bikemike (Apr 27, 2015)

zuren said:


> Does anyone have any long term feedback of the Poulan Pro 5020? By long term I mean 2-3 years of advanced homeowner level use. I see that guys bought these in other threads and would like to hear if the saw is still going strong or if they already failed. From what I have read, Poulan Pro is made by Husqvarna.
> 
> http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/poulanreg;-pro-pp-5020-av-20-in-chainsaw
> 
> ...


I dont have the new Poulan but i do have a pre strato pp 4620avx for about 5 years running strong broke it inn with a higher oil mix and it still runs strong i have used this saw at least 2 to 3 times a week since i got it. And having echo and stihl saws i find myself using my poulan cause im not afraid to wear it out and it wont blow up still.


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## old guy (Apr 27, 2015)

I bought my first one only slightly used, ( chain had never been resharpened and was still sharp) for $100.
It was the Sears colored one and it runs just fine and is impressive, but my grandson liked it so well it is now his.
The next one I paid $90 for off CL, this one is the regular 5020, it also has very little time on it, it has 165 lbs comp.
I can't get it to turn the revs it should and a look inside the ex port shows it may have ingested something but I seem to have trouble tuning these strato saws so we will see.
There was a used one on CL a while ago for $145 and one new in box $125.


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## Wagnerwerks (Apr 27, 2015)

139.99 refurbs on ebay


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## Modifiedmark (Apr 27, 2015)

CTYank said:


> I'm still "blaming" @Modifiedmark for spreading the word about the PP5020. Thanks again, Mark..



My pleasure, I got broad shoulders so pile it on. 

Really though its been a while now since I bought the 5020 and started that thread on it. I said at the time that I thought for its intended purpose that it was the best buy saw around at the $200 price tag. It now appears that I was right at least in my mind and quite a few others. 

We have not heard of any major problems from anyone about them since and I have talked to more then a few folks who probably use them more then what they were intended for. 

I just talked to Cornfused at the GTG last weekend and he is still very happy with his.


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## Modifiedmark (Apr 27, 2015)

Jon1212 said:


> I don't know why I thought it was a K041 as OEM? I'm just a dirty hippie.
> 
> I do find it odd after using the Oregon selector guide that both the OEM, and non OEM are K095, yet the OEM bars require 70dl vs the standard 72dl for that mount.
> 
> My level of interest, and intrigue has now increased even further.



Technically, the OEM bar would be considered a Z095 mount as it is a K095 mount with a non standard drive link count. 

I'm not sure if Oregon is making Z095's except for OEM now days and if not that would be why they don't list it in there aftermarket listings.


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## Deleted member 83629 (Apr 27, 2015)

i thought one guy had a problem about a broken crankshaft???


IF YOU GET THE SAW dump the vanguard chain get some 72LGX . put a 16'' on it because from my personal experience the saw don't have enough ass to run the 20 on it.


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## Modifiedmark (Apr 27, 2015)

jakewells said:


> i thought one guy had a problem about a broken crankshaft???
> 
> 
> IF YOU GET THE SAW dump the vanguard chain get some 72LGX . put a 16'' on it because from my personal experience the saw don't have enough ass to run the 20 on it.




Correct, Spike came on and said he had one brought in with the crank broke off at the clutch. We asked for more info and never got any, it seems we don't know if it was abused with the chainbrake or if it was just one of those things.

Maybe I shouldn't have said any major problems and just said not many problems period??

Point of most owners being happy with them is still valid.

I agree that the saw is happiest with a 16" on it but then again most 50cc saws are. As far as not having enough ass to run the 20" I disagree.


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## Deleted member 83629 (Apr 27, 2015)

im happy with mine its my beater saw its been through hell but runs good.


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## Vibes (Apr 28, 2015)

I recommended one to a guy I had worked with a few years back. He bought a Craftsman refurb from Ebay. He's put up 3 years worth of firewood with it and as far as I know he's not had a problem. He also has a 9 years old Wildthing so I know he takes care of his tools.


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## bikemike (Apr 28, 2015)

Modifiedmark said:


> Correct, Spike came on and said he had one brought in with the crank broke off at the clutch. We asked for more info and never got any, it seems we don't know if it was abused with the chainbrake or if it was just one of those things.
> 
> Maybe I shouldn't have said any major problems and just said not many problems period??
> 
> ...


My 46cc runs a 20inch all day and turns it in soft and hard wood no problem with a carlton full chisle


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## heyduke (Apr 28, 2015)

it looks like a superior design to the husqvarna 455 which appears to use plastic for the bottom of the clamshell case. the 5020 uses metal, like an 029. i would agree with an earlier post that it would be a good idea to acquire a splined carb adjuster tool if you buy a 5020. my experience with recent poulans is that they need tuning before use, but the same thing is true of most saws. poor tuning could be the reason that jakewells' 5020 lacks "booty."


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## zuren (Apr 28, 2015)

I took a quick walk around my property last night to get some measurements on trees that are down. The biggest is 19" in diameter and I think it is a cottonwood (I have a ton of them). Anything bigger is so rotten that I will just leave it for the woodpeckers. The rest of it is in the 12" diameter range.

Based on what everyone seems to say about the 5020, I would keep the 20" bar for the occasional big cut but it would probably be happier with an 18" bar, a muffler mod, and a good chain. I know a shorter bar and muffler mod on my 2025 woke it up. Based on the size of other trees that look like they are ready to come down, I wouldn't want anything much smaller than an 18".

So that being said, what would be the best 18" bar and chain combo for the 5020? My local Family Farm and Home has the saw with case for $199; same at TSC. The refurb. units on ebay are tempting but would like to have a case for it. It looks like a case alone runs ~$50.

Thanks!


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## Chris-PA (Apr 28, 2015)

I believe that the PP4818 sold at HD is actually the same 50cc powerhead as the PP5020 but with an 18" bar.


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## Deleted member 83629 (Apr 28, 2015)

heyduke said:


> it looks like a superior design to the husqvarna 455 which appears to use plastic for the bottom of the clamshell case. the 5020 uses metal, like an 029. i would agree with an earlier post that it would be a good idea to acquire a splined carb adjuster tool if you buy a 5020. my experience with recent poulans is that they need tuning before use, but the same thing is true of most saws. poor tuning could be the reason that jakewells' 5020 lacks "booty."


mine is tuned so it 4 strokes out of the cut it runs smooth in the cut.


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## heyduke (Apr 28, 2015)

jakewells said:


> mine is tuned so it 4 strokes out of the cut it runs smooth in the cut.



rule of thumb, use the shortest bar that works. you'll have more power and it's easier to keep the tip out of the dirt. on the other hand, i tend to stick with 20" bars. i carry a few extra 72dl chains that will work on any of the saws in the back of the truck. if i have to deal with bigger wood, i'll throw in a bigger saw with a 32" bar. for top handles i prefer a 12" bar. if i'm cutting something bigger than 10" diameter, send up a 70cc saw and i'll get the job done quickly.


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## Deleted member 83629 (Apr 28, 2015)

or grab my 590 with the 24 or even my poulan 330 with the 22''


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## Modifiedmark (Apr 28, 2015)

zuren said:


> I took a quick walk around my property last night to get some measurements on trees that are down. The biggest is 19" in diameter and I think it is a cottonwood (I have a ton of them). Anything bigger is so rotten that I will just leave it for the woodpeckers. The rest of it is in the 12" diameter range.
> 
> Based on what everyone seems to say about the 5020, I would keep the 20" bar for the occasional big cut but it would probably be happier with an 18" bar, a muffler mod, and a good chain. I know a shorter bar and muffler mod on my 2025 woke it up. Based on the size of other trees that look like they are ready to come down, I wouldn't want anything much smaller than an 18".
> 
> ...



I went through about doing a muffler mod on the 5020 and there isn't much really to do to it. Its a open tin can muffler and about all you can do other then adding other outlets is to open up the hole under the deflector some. I did do that and it really didn't make much difference.

As to the 18" bar, you have to remember that a Husky 18" bar uses a 68DL chain so your not changing much going to a 18" on it.

That said depending on where your at, it might be easier to get 68DL chains. In that case just run the 20" till its shot then get the 18" and if you have any extra chains you can just shorten them up 2 links to match your new bar.

These guys rag on the Vanguard chain but if you know the correct way to keep the rakers filed down right, it will cut just fine till you wear it out.


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## Modifiedmark (Apr 28, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> I believe that the PP4818 sold at HD is actually the same 50cc powerhead as the PP5020 but with an 18" bar.



I think your right on that. ..


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## bikemike (Apr 28, 2015)

heyduke said:


> it looks like a superior design to the husqvarna 455 which appears to use plastic for the bottom of the clamshell case. the 5020 uses metal, like an 029. i would agree with an earlier post that it would be a good idea to acquire a splined carb adjuster tool if you buy a 5020. my experience with recent poulans is that they need tuning before use, but the same thing is true of most saws. poor tuning could be the reason that jakewells' 5020 lacks "booty."





Modifiedmark said:


> I went through about doing a muffler mod on the 5020 and there isn't much really to do to it. Its a open tin can muffler and about all you can do other then adding other outlets is to open up the hole under the deflector some. I did do that and it really didn't make much difference.
> 
> As to the 18" bar, you have to remember that a Husky 18" bar uses a 68DL chain so your not changing much going to a 18" on it.
> 
> ...


Pull the needles out and hit them with a dremel and slot it like all other carbs


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## old guy (Apr 28, 2015)

bikemike said:


> Pull the needles out and hit them with a dremel and slot it like all other carbs


Oh, I have to disagree, get the right tool off of Amazon, they work so much better, I wish all saws had the splined needles.
I paid $17 for the first one I got but had to get a different one for my dolkita and that came in a set of 4 which included another splined one, the set cost the same $17

John


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## CTYank (Apr 28, 2015)

Modifiedmark said:


> I went through about doing a muffler mod on the 5020 and there isn't much really to do to it. Its a open tin can muffler and about all you can do other then adding other outlets is to open up the hole under the deflector some. I did do that and it really didn't make much difference.
> 
> As to the 18" bar, you have to remember that a Husky 18" bar uses a 68DL chain so your not changing much going to a 18" on it.
> 
> ...



I've still got a few of those chains, and randomly run them among others, without problems. Just so long, like Mark sez, as the depth gauges are ALL set to .025-.030". They tend to be a bit variable, left on their own. Granberg file guide, with a flat file in it, can set them precisely. Go there, and there's nothing to kvetch about- just run it and make chips.

@old guy about Dolmars, my 6100 needs a "double-D" tool for the H needle.


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## heyduke (Apr 28, 2015)

bikemike said:


> Pull the needles out and hit them with a dremel and slot it like all other carbs



it's a pain to pull the carb and then figure out a way of removing the metering needles. just buy the correct tool for the job. the splined tool is actually an improvement on the primitive flat bladed driver. you can let go of it and it will stay on the needle. also, the last poulan i used one on, a new pp4218, did not have limiters. apparently the suits at the epa and carb let them lose limiters in exchange for "tamper proof" splines. bonus, some carbs with slotted needles also have splines. you can use that seditious little driver for them too.


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## old guy (Apr 28, 2015)

CTYank said:


> I've still got a few of those chains, and randomly run them among others, without problems. Just so long, like Mark sez, as the depth gauges are ALL set to .025-.030". They tend to be a bit variable, left on their own. Granberg file guide, with a flat file in it, can set them precisely. Go there, and there's nothing to kvetch about- just run it and make chips.
> 
> @old guy about Dolmars, my 6100 needs a "double-D" tool for the H needle.


That DD comes in that set of 4.

John


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## Chris J. (Apr 29, 2015)

bikemike said:


> Pull the needles out and hit them with a dremel and slot it like all other carbs


 
I took a very short drive and paid $10.00 for the spline tool that can be used on several of my newer Poulan saws (5020, 4620, 295) and probably some others.


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## Vibes (Apr 29, 2015)

zuren said:


> I took a quick walk around my property last night to get some measurements on trees that are down. The biggest is 19" in diameter and I think it is a cottonwood (I have a ton of them). Anything bigger is so rotten that I will just leave it for the woodpeckers. The rest of it is in the 12" diameter range.
> 
> Based on what everyone seems to say about the 5020, I would keep the 20" bar for the occasional big cut but it would probably be happier with an 18" bar, a muffler mod, and a good chain. I know a shorter bar and muffler mod on my 2025 woke it up. Based on the size of other trees that look like they are ready to come down, I wouldn't want anything much smaller than an 18".
> 
> ...



If a 5020 uses the same bar mount as the old Poulan 3000's and Craftsman 3.3 and the like, I have a few of those 18 inch bars hanging around that I'd like to sell off.


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## cornfused (Apr 29, 2015)

As Modified Mark said, mine has been running great for about 25 cords so far. After about 7 tanks of fuel I retuned & changed to 18" bar & chain...like a completely different saw (retune not b/c length). Bar is Oregon K095/18" Pro-lite & chain is Oregon 72LGX068. As Mark said the B/C didn't make that big a difference in the cut but makes the saw handier/better balance. So far (knock on wood) it's been a great little saw. On sale @ Menards for $179.99!!!


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## bikemike (Apr 29, 2015)

old guy said:


> Oh, I have to disagree, get the right tool off of Amazon, they work so much better, I wish all saws had the splined needles.
> I paid $17 for the first one I got but had to get a different one for my dolkita and that came in a set of 4 which included another splined one, the set cost the same $17
> 
> John


Yeah they find there spot every time but it just sucks to have one more tool you use 3 times a year


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## Philbert (Apr 29, 2015)

bikemike said:


> Yeah they find there spot every time but it just sucks to have one more tool you use 3 times a year


The right tool for the right job . . . 

Philbert

P.S. there is a 'hack' posted here several times on A.S.: gently heat up some plastic tubing (like the insulating sleeve of a crimp-on electrical terminal) and press it over the splined needle for a custom fit. Should work for occasional use.


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## Chris-PA (Apr 29, 2015)

bikemike said:


> it just sucks to have one more tool you use 3 times a year


Then use it more often and you'll feel better!


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## Deleted member 83629 (Apr 29, 2015)

well don't use the tool and blow up your saw.


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## heyduke (Apr 29, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> Then use it more often and you'll feel better!



actually the tool will fit many carbs that have slotted-head needles and is much easier to use than a flat bladed screw driver.

an old poulan with a walbro, slotted-heads. the tool is just above and to the right.




look ma! no hands!



sadly, i tried it on another walbro from a stihl 029. the needles were splined but too large.


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## Chris-PA (Apr 29, 2015)

heyduke said:


> actually the tool will fit many carbs that have slotted-head needles and is much easier to use than a flat bladed screw driver.


I agree - I have one too. I really don't like using a flat blade as it slips off too easily.


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## B-N (Apr 29, 2015)

A quick heads up to my fellow Canucks. 

Tsc has 48 cc 20" refurbs for $100 starting on Friday May 1st. 

Case not included...


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## bikemike (Apr 29, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> Then use it more often and you'll feel better!


I just slot them like all my other small engines are.


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## Modifiedmark (Apr 29, 2015)

bikemike said:


> I just slot them like all my other small engines are.



Thats fine do what ever you want, but why ain't you complaining about having to buy a screwdriver to use on them? Tools are tools.

Instead of bitching about buying a spline driver, why don't you do some research and find out why they have those splined screws?

Believe me they have done us all a great service using them, much easier to just get the tool or even slot them like you said then to deal with limiter caps, sealed carbs etc.

BTW my Stihl blower has to use a special tool to adjust the carb on it as well. Its a hex driver but very thin. No biggie I modified a plain nut driver to work. $4 big deal. Much better then there saws where you have to carefully remove the limiter to trim it then put it back on so the screws will hold there set. Then if you don't use the Stihl limiter removal tool, you will screw them up once in a while then I have to go argue with the man behind the counter at the Stihl dealer and try to explain to him that he can sell me the new limiter caps I need.

If you work on this kind of stuff you need the proper tools, go buy the set of 4 like was suggested to you then you can work on them all.


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## CTYank (Apr 29, 2015)

old guy said:


> That DD comes in that set of 4.
> 
> John



I mentioned it so that you can easily ID the tool by the mark typically on the handle, AND so that others can avoid tool-clutter by getting only the tool(s) needed. (It is nice of Dolmar to not need a special tool to adjust idle speed and L mixture.)

Best way around all of this stuff: AutoTune. Digging it. Excellent insurance policy for really powerful engines.


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## bikemike (Apr 29, 2015)

Modifiedmark said:


> Thats fine do what ever you want, but why ain't you complaining about having to buy a screwdriver to use on them? Tools are tools.
> 
> Instead of bitching about buying a spline driver, why don't you do some research and find out why they have those splined screws?
> 
> ...


Cause i dont need a splined set up to tighten my chain so il buzz down a scrench and pull a plug change a chain and tighten it and still tune a saw when im in the feild on a job. I dont need to bring my whole tool box to go do tree work or cut wood . Just a big saw and top handle saw fuel oil scrench and climbing gear. One less thing to loose


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## bikemike (Apr 29, 2015)

Modifiedmark said:


> Thats fine do what ever you want, but why ain't you complaining about having to buy a screwdriver to use on them? Tools are tools.
> 
> Instead of bitching about buying a spline driver, why don't you do some research and find out why they have those splined screws?
> 
> ...


Oh yeah i do work on lots of stuff. Saw snowblower mowers pocket bike hovercraft boat engines model airplanes gas electric or nitro motorcycle ovehauls and tune ups. My poulan is now more like a husky one tool can do most of whats needed yeahya


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## MrFiXiT (May 8, 2015)

zuren said:


> Does anyone have any long term feedback of the Poulan Pro 5020? By long term I mean 2-3 years of advanced homeowner level use. I see that guys bought these in other threads and would like to hear if the saw is still going strong or if they already failed. From what I have read, Poulan Pro is made by Husqvarna.
> 
> http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/poulanreg;-pro-pp-5020-av-20-in-chainsaw
> 
> ...




I have had the Poulan 5020av for almost 2 years. I'm not a snob when it comes to the tools and equipment I buy but I do have to have something reliable. The problem with this Poulan model is that it comes with a bar and chain that was designed to minimize any sort of kickback. It's like they were paranoid to trust a home owner with a worthwhile bar and chain that can actually cut wood. In other words, my Poulan did not cut anything well out of the box. But, it's a powerful saw @ 50ccs. If you get a 16" or 18" bar and semi chisel chain on this Poulan Pro, it's a very good saw for the money. But I read a user who said an Oregon Bar that was slightly wider was compatible and it came with 2 semi chisel chains that were supposed to be excellent. Well, they were fantastic when I first used that setup. However, I was noticing the excessive leaking bar oil and since there is no adjustment for this, it was not even possible to prevent the excessive mess it created as well as the all the buildup of wood shavings and dust that ended up restricting the chain at times. Bottom line is, I would not buy this Poulan again. It's going for a warranty repair to fix everything so I can go back to the original spec and I am selling it. I hate the ridiculous bar and chain it comes with and the alternative bar and chain listed on Poulan's website, althought somewhat of an improvement, is also not my idea of a good setup. If you need something to cut a few tree branches here and there, maybe. But for someone who cuts a 7-8 cords of wood each season, and also uses a chainsaw freqently around the yard, I would never invest in something without an adjustment for oiling the chain and I most definitely need a saw that either comes with a good bar and chain or, come with the option to choose a good bar and chain. Chisel chains just have some kickback with some saws but a good semi chisel will shred through wood like butter. Some people were having issues with starting this one but to be honesty, that is the one strong feature about this saw. Mine started every time. Pull once full choke and it growled. Cut back on the choke and started right up. Very powerful and smooth. Love it. Wish they had adjustable oilers and a good bar and chain. Such a pity


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## Philbert (May 9, 2015)

Usually do not see adjustable output oilers until more expensive, 'pro' saws. 

As far as the 'Vanguard' style chain that come with it, you should be able to replace it with any 3/8 pitch, 0.050 gauge chain on the market, without changing the bar. 

Philbert


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## Chris-PA (May 9, 2015)

I don't really see the need for an adjustable oiler on a 20" bar - this saw has the same oiler setup as my Poulan 2775 and it's not been a issue there. The main thing with these is that it oils whenever the engine is turning so if you let it isle a lot you'll have a mess, but I don't do that.


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## RedneckChainsawRepair (May 9, 2015)

Took a break from dumping old mix. Read the newer post and got a good laugh  . Thanks. 

I had some 70DL RS and LGX made. Also I prefer the 16" 60DL set up on these.


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## bikemike (May 9, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Usually do not see adjustable output oilers until more expensive, 'pro' saws.
> 
> As far as the 'Vanguard' style chain that come with it, you should be able to replace it with any 3/8 pitch, 0.050 gauge chain on the market, without changing the bar.
> 
> Philbert


Duhh it says pro lol. Yeah my old 46cc dont have adjustable oiler but it pulls a 20inch full chisle no problem


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## heyduke (May 9, 2015)

MrFiXiT said:


> I have had the Poulan 5020av for almost 2 years. I'm not a snob when it comes to the tools and equipment I buy but I do have to have something reliable. The problem with this Poulan model is that it comes with a bar and chain that was designed to minimize any sort of kickback. It's like they were paranoid to trust a home owner with a worthwhile bar and chain that can actually cut wood. In other words, my Poulan did not cut anything well out of the box. But, it's a powerful saw @ 50ccs. If you get a 16" or 18" bar and semi chisel chain on this Poulan Pro, it's a very good saw for the money. But I read a user who said an Oregon Bar that was slightly wider was compatible and it came with 2 semi chisel chains that were supposed to be excellent. Well, they were fantastic when I first used that setup. However, I was noticing the excessive leaking bar oil and since there is no adjustment for this, it was not even possible to prevent the excessive mess it created as well as the all the buildup of wood shavings and dust that ended up restricting the chain at times. Bottom line is, I would not buy this Poulan again. It's going for a warranty repair to fix everything so I can go back to the original spec and I am selling it. I hate the ridiculous bar and chain it comes with and the alternative bar and chain listed on Poulan's website, althought somewhat of an improvement, is also not my idea of a good setup. If you need something to cut a few tree branches here and there, maybe. But for someone who cuts a 7-8 cords of wood each season, and also uses a chainsaw freqently around the yard, I would never invest in something without an adjustment for oiling the chain and I most definitely need a saw that either comes with a good bar and chain or, come with the option to choose a good bar and chain. Chisel chains just have some kickback with some saws but a good semi chisel will shred through wood like butter. Some people were having issues with starting this one but to be honesty, that is the one strong feature about this saw. Mine started every time. Pull once full choke and it growled. Cut back on the choke and started right up. Very powerful and smooth. Love it. Wish they had adjustable oilers and a good bar and chain. Such a pity



i prefer a saw that gets wet and messy to one that's stingy with oil. also, a 20" bar is a good length for firewood duty, short enough you don't put the nose in the dirt and long enough to cut most stems in one pass. and, any time you purchase a new home-owner class saw you're going to get low kickback chain. so buy a good chain and throw the other in your tool box to use as a spare. quit worrying and go out to cut a few truck loads of wood.


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## zuren (Oct 10, 2015)

Thanks for all the feedback with this thread. The "save big money" store was offering a 11% rebate off everything so I took the plunge and picked up a 5020.

The sales guy was trying to talk me into PP4218A (less money) and the Remington Rodeo Pro (more money), mostly due to the emissions hour rating. Claimed they had better engines. Frankly I don't know but I've never seen them discussed like the 5020. I thanked him for the help and walked out with the 5020. I'm going to order up the carb tools before I do anything.


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## Chris J. (Oct 11, 2015)

zuren said:


> ... and the Remington Rodeo Pro (more money), mostly due to the emissions hour rating. Claimed they had better engines. Frankly I don't know but I've never seen them discussed like the 5020. I thanked him for the help and walked out with the 5020. I'm going to order up the carb tools before I do anything.



IIRC the gas powered Remington chainsaws offered today are rebadged McCulloch models--made in China--that are sold in European countries. Even the guys active in the Remington sticky thread here avoid them.


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## mexicanyella (Oct 27, 2015)

So, Zuren...have you formed any impressions about your 5020 yet? 

I've only had mine for about 1-1/2 years and while I like the engine's easy starting and power level, I have had issues with an overly flexible rear handle causing throttle-travel issues in certain cutting positions. I think I've solved that now by adding a skid-plate-like brace made of plate aluminum under the saw, which stiffens the handle in terms of side-to-side flex. I have a thread here about this problem; a member called DrewUth chimed in in that thread with a different bracing solution made of dirt bike fender plastic that he says works well for him. So a few others have talked about similar issues but the number of positive comments about the saw makes me think that this may be a fairly occasional quality control issue with the handle-molding process, or something.

My former saw was a Poulan 2150...sort of similar to your situation. I'd be interested to hear how the 5020 works for you, if you're still monitoring this.


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## Joel D'Angelo (Oct 28, 2015)

mexicanyella said:


> So, Zuren...have you formed any impressions about your 5020 yet?
> 
> I've only had mine for about 1-1/2 years and while I like the engine's easy starting and power level, I have had issues with an overly flexible rear handle causing throttle-travel issues in certain cutting positions. I think I've solved that now by adding a skid-plate-like brace made of plate aluminum under the saw, which stiffens the handle in terms of side-to-side flex. I have a thread here about this problem; a member called DrewUth chimed in in that thread with a different bracing solution made of dirt bike fender plastic that he says works well for him. So a few others have talked about similar issues but the number of positive comments about the saw makes me think that this may be a fairly occasional quality control issue with the handle-molding process, or something.
> 
> My former saw was a Poulan 2150...sort of similar to your situation. I'd be interested to hear how the 5020 works for you, if you're still monitoring this.


Those things are horrible! When I come across them I buy em for $10 and give them to enemies! Mainly it's the vibration brutal. I've got a Stihl 029 I'll sell ya for the same $200 just sayin. You are much better off with a decent used quality saw for sale on here almost daily.


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## mexicanyella (Oct 28, 2015)

I don't find the 5020's vibration to be an issue at all. I don't see how it could be, given the large amount of travel present on the boingy, compliant a/v springs. If anything I'd like the a/v system tightened up a bit.

If you were instead referring to the vibration of non-av Poulans like the 2150 I mentioned, I have heard/read other comments about that but I have never found it to be an issue. Yeah, I can feel vibration but not to the point where it fatigues me if I use the saw for a couple hours straight. 

I have yet to see any 5020s available for $10, but if you run across any more, put me on your enemy list and send me a PM!


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## Chris J. (Oct 29, 2015)

Joel D'Angelo said:


> Those things are horrible! When I come across them I buy em for $10 and give them to enemies! Mainly it's the vibration brutal. I've got a Stihl 029 I'll sell ya for the same $200 just sayin. You are much better off with a decent used quality saw for sale on here almost daily.



So what do you pay for for the Craftsman version, $5.00?

I'm guessing that you're joking. Have yet to hear of any "vibration brutal" complaints re the 5020, usually the opposite "too flexible."


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## bikemike (Oct 30, 2015)

Yeah the yellow n black Poulans are all av sa . The green Poulans have no av. 

What does it take to be on the enemy list. IL give 20 per black n yellow Poulan pro saws like this and the pp5020avx


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## RedneckChainsawRepair (Oct 30, 2015)

bikemike said:


> Yeah the yellow n black Poulans are all av sa . The green Poulans have no av.




My green poulans have av.


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## Chris J. (Oct 31, 2015)

bikemike said:


> Yeah the yellow n black Poulans are all av sa . The green Poulans have no av.
> 
> What does it take to be on the enemy list. IL give 20 per black n yellow Poulan pro saws like this and the pp5020avx


 
Some green Poulan chainsaws do have AV. I've never seen a PP5020AVX, just the AV; the Poulan Pro website only lists the PP5020AV.


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## Brent1205 (Mar 15, 2016)

I've had mine for a year now. I have cut 15 cords of wood with it so far running a Carlton semi chisel chain on it, and it's had nothing but Stihl 2 cycle oil with non ethanol fuel, and Stihl bar oil ran through it still running the factory 20inch 3/8 bar. I have done nothing to it but the chain put fuel and oil in and cut wood. I do take care of it I clean all the dust and grime out with a rag and a air hose and keep the chain sharp it will cut everything I need it to cut within reason


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## mexicanyella (Mar 15, 2016)

Brent, that sounds like a pretty positive report. Have you noticed any issues with flexibility of the rear handle and/or AV springs affecting throttle opening in certain cutting positions?

I started a thread about that on here last fall and ended up making an under-saw brace to stiffen my rear handle, which helped, but it's still noticeable. I've had mine for about 2-1/2 years now. Runs great other than that. I recently examined two new ones on the shelf at the nearby Tractor Supply store and neither seemed to have any noticeable movement on the throttle linkage when I'd flex the rear handle with the air filter cover removed so I could watch the linkage while I did it. 

Maybe I just have a defective handle. 

I still like how the saw runs and it's easy to start. I used it back-to-back with a neighbor's Husqvarna 450 Rancher a month or so ago and while I liked the Rancher well enough and it felt lighter, looked sleeker and sounded like it revved a bit higher, my 5020 still seemed to work just as well in actual cutting.


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## Brent1205 (Mar 15, 2016)

I've not noticed any flex in the rear handle, or any throttle linkage binding at all. I've not been easy on this saw, first wood it seen was 42 inch diameter white oak and it buzzed through it after I replaced the OEM chain with a Carlton semi chisel. I have loop of Windsor 50A chisel on it now going to give it a run in some clean wood I need to cut up that had just fell a couple nights ago on my farm


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## bikemike (Mar 15, 2016)

mexicanyella said:


> Brent, that sounds like a pretty positive report. Have you noticed any issues with flexibility of the rear handle and/or AV springs affecting throttle opening in certain cutting positions?
> 
> I started a thread about that on here last fall and ended up making an under-saw brace to stiffen my rear handle, which helped, but it's still noticeable. I've had mine for about 2-1/2 years now. Runs great other than that. I recently examined two new ones on the shelf at the nearby Tractor Supply store and neither seemed to have any noticeable movement on the throttle linkage when I'd flex the rear handle with the air filter cover removed so I could watch the linkage while I did it.
> 
> ...


Hey mexyellow, how you been? long time no talk. You brought up the flex in the av system. That just reminded me of my poulan pp4620avx that was pretty loose or sloppy. I did fill all my av springs with black RTV gasket maker and that really helped out the slop or flex in my saw.


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## mexicanyella (Mar 16, 2016)

Brent, what I noticed on mine wasn't binding, but actual partial closing of the throttle (with trigger fully squeezed) when the rear handle would flex a particular way. This type of flex mostly occurs when I'm cutting with the bar tip down, powerhead up...like bucking a log on the ground. If I squat down so the saw's level, or cut at waist height, or make a felling cut with the saw on its side, it's not an issue. No throttle sticking going on...just linkage geometry changes that shouldn't be occuring because the handle is moving relative to the saw body and backing off of the linkage when it shouldn't be. Worse, it's not closing the fuel/air lower carb barrel...just the upper air-only one. So it throttles back and goes rich at the same time. If I consciously keep a little side pressure on the rear handle so it doesn't flex just so, it's okay...but I hope to sort this out eventually so I don't have to think about that while I'm cutting!

Mike, haven't been on here much, or getting much sawing done this winter. Been busy with work and it's been warm enough to not burn all the wood I've accumulated. Hope to step up the woods/saw time a bit before the poison ivy and undergrowth leaf back out. I miss having my hair and shirt smell like two-stroke exhaust. Still haven't assembled my PP4620/2900 Farmhand yellow/green frankensaw, but hope to soon. A friend recently dropped off a Homelite C-71 with a 36" bar on it to play with after I put in a carb kit and new fuel line. That thing is a big old armload of metal. I can't wait to hear it run and try it out.


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## RedneckChainsawRepair (Mar 16, 2016)

Just one of many green saws with AV. So IMO dont use a broad statement like above to say all green saws NO AV saws.

Poulan 2900 http://www.poulan.com/ddoc/POUI/POUI2009_AAaa/POUI2009_AAaa__530082347.pdf

Off the top of my head in green with AV also. 2700 3000 3300 3450 3750 and many more


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## shorty2000us (Mar 16, 2016)

I use my 5020 just about every weekend. First saw I bought when I bought my house & wanted to carry on the 'family tradition' of heating with wood. The $200 price point made perfect sense at the time, and will buy another if/when this one dies. Oils good, I run full chisel on the 20" oem bar, stihl ultra or dolmar full synthetic oil, and tuned it properly. Muffler mod didn't do much. Worst flaw was the air filter not sealing 100%, which as others said is an easy fix with a little silicone. All in all its been a great saw for the past 3 years & couldn't be happier.


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## zuren (Mar 17, 2016)

I ended up getting a 5020 at the "save big money" store. Only issue I've had is the tip of one of the guide teeth on the chain broke off. I'm guessing that this little chip jammed in the bar groove causing the chain to get thrown off the bar. It seems that it put burrs on some of the other guide teeth in the process. Fortunately it happened right when I squeezed the throttle from idle so the chain speed was low. Scared the hell out of me regardless. I had been running the saw flawlessly for 30 min. prior to that and everything was adjusted/inspected/lubed prior to starting. I took it back to the shop, inspected everything, filed the burrs down, and reinstalled. It seems to be fine now but I'll be getting rid of this chain altogether. It doesn't feel like any other chain I've ever used (so it feels a little unpredictable) and it seems their quality control on this Vanguard model is lacking.

Otherwise, I've been happy. I tuned the carb and put sticky grease on the edge of the air filter. Once I change out the chain and possibly the bar, I'll be happy.


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## bikemike (Mar 17, 2016)

zuren said:


> I ended up getting a 5020 at the "save big money" store. Only issue I've had is the tip of one of the guide teeth on the chain broke off. I'm guessing that this little chip jammed in the bar groove causing the chain to get thrown off the bar. It seems that it put burrs on some of the other guide teeth in the process. Fortunately it happened right when I squeezed the throttle from idle so the chain speed was low. Scared the hell out of me regardless. I had been running the saw flawlessly for 30 min. prior to that and everything was adjusted/inspected/lubed prior to starting. I took it back to the shop, inspected everything, filed the burrs down, and reinstalled. It seems to be fine now but I'll be getting rid of this chain altogether. It doesn't feel like any other chain I've ever used (so it feels a little unpredictable) and it seems their quality control on this Vanguard model is lacking.
> 
> Otherwise, I've been happy. I tuned the carb and put sticky grease on the edge of the air filter. Once I change out the chain and possibly the bar, I'll be happy.


I hate those chains. Carlton or stihl chain is a good option for those. Night n day difference imo


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## mexicanyella (Mar 17, 2016)

My 5020 has thrown its chain two or three times in the 2-1/2 years I've had it, and once it jammed the drive links hard enough that I had to file down some burrs to get it to run smooth in the bar groove again. For comparison, I've thrown the 3/8" LP safety chain on my 2150 maybe twice in 15 years, and never once did I throw a chain in several years of learning on a blue Homelite XL12 as a kid, or the Partner 5000+ that replaced it. With the 2150, it was clearly a matter of me letting the chain get too loose and trying to finish whatever cut I was doing. With the 5020, I don't think that's been the case. I hope going to a 16" bar and better chain--soon!--takes care of that.


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## Brent1205 (Mar 18, 2016)

I've not thrown a chain yet but I keep up on my chains I sharpen them soon as the saw starts to not cut as well and make sure I keep proper tension on it. And when I do tighten it I always pick up on the bar when tighten the clutch cover nuts keeps the bar from dropping and putting slack in the chain when you tighten the nuts


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## Philbert (Mar 18, 2016)

Throwing chains is not always a tension issue. Sometimes it depends on the wood that you are cutting. Brush is especially likely to throw a chain.

Philbert


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## mexicanyella (Mar 21, 2016)

Agreed about the brush comment...the first chain-throw incident with my 5020 happened while I was cutting back one of those invasive honeysuckle bushes that was almost tree-sized. Those thin whippy branches are easier to deal with using a smaller saw, with 3/8" LP chain, too. The larger teeth on the 5020's chain make cutting thin whippy branches kind of unpredictable and that gives me the willies.


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## Chris J. (Mar 22, 2016)

mexicanyella said:


> Agreed about the brush comment...the first chain-throw incident with my 5020 happened while I was cutting back one of those invasive honeysuckle bushes that was almost tree-sized. Those thin whippy branches are easier to deal with using a smaller saw, with 3/8" LP chain, too. The larger teeth on the 5020's chain make cutting thin whippy branches kind of unpredictable and that gives me the willies.



You can't go wrong having a good lopper. Even the nice ones aren't that (relatively speaking) expensive, & they sure are handy.


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## old guy (Mar 22, 2016)

mexicanyella said:


> Agreed about the brush comment...the first chain-throw incident with my 5020 happened while I was cutting back one of those invasive honeysuckle bushes that was almost tree-sized. Those thin whippy branches are easier to deal with using a smaller saw, with 3/8" LP chain, too. The larger teeth on the 5020's chain make cutting thin whippy branches kind of unpredictable and that gives me the willies.


That is one of the real problems of the vangaurd chain, those bent over rakers will grab those small branches and whip them back in your face and also help throw the chain, I have no problem with the way it cuts.

John


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## Brent1205 (Mar 22, 2016)

That's why the vanguard chain didn't last a day on mine I put a Carlton Semi Chisel on it


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## pghsteelworker (Mar 23, 2016)

If anyone is interested the 5020 is on sale at Tractor supply in the Pittsburgh area for $179.99 from March 23-28 and comes with a two year warranty.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/poulan-pro-pp-5020-av-20-in-chainsaw?cm_vc=-10005


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## LegDeLimber (Mar 23, 2016)

IF I could afford all of the shipping costs, I'd tell anyone to to send me their unwanted Vanguard chains (that Philbert didn't want to adopt).
I always thought they were fairly smooth in wood that was less than the bar length.
Yes the depth guides can seem a bit more finicky to shape when you lower them. 
But I found that for working up unwanted trash/yard trees that the Developers leave standing (usually in the 5" to 12" diam range) they can cut pretty well.
If i can catch a day that my knees & hips are tolerable for it, I'll try to get a little video of one eating a sweet gum or pine or small willow oak.
That medium & smallish stuff seemed seemed to be their best range for me.


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## LincTex (May 18, 2016)

Long Term review? OK here's mine:
Power is GREAT! (for the cost, it can't be beat)
However....
I have had this saw for 2 years, and I'm afraid that if I want to keep using it I'm going to have to replace everything in the entire fuel system. It can only be because it HAS GOT TO BE because of inferior rubber and other fuel system components - - I have a variety of saws from Husqvarna, Stihl, Makita (Dolmar), and Jonsered, & they all get the same exact gasoline mix from the same can, and this Poulan is the ONLY ONE that is near impossible to keep running because of fuel related issues. I did buy the special splined screwdriver to adjust the carb (this tool is absolutely 100% vital to own when owning this saw, you will use it every time!) and the gas cap swells up so you can't get it on or off. I'm just so disappointed - I know how plastics are specified in the industry, and Poulan/Electrolux could've spent just 50 cents more per saw to prevent this from happening. The ONLY reason I bought the saw was because the "core engine" itself is made by Husqvarna, but the fuel tank, fuel lines and carb attached to the engine make it worthless and unusable. No matter how good the engine is, it won't run if the fuel system isn't made with good components.

If I could replace all rubber/vinyl parts (including the carb diaphragms) with good stuff, I'd be all set. The only option is to buy by 100LL AvGas - it is the ONLY "ethanol free" fuel option around here - but I have to drive over an hour round trip to get any and it's about $6 a gallon.

Not a bad saw for the price, at least until the fuel system goes bad.


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## Chris-PA (May 18, 2016)

LincTex said:


> I'm afraid that if I want to keep using it I'm going to have to replace everything in the entire fuel system.


It's a chainsaw, there hardly is any fuel system. You've got three generic fuel lines (tank to carb, carb to bulb, bulb to tank), a ZAMA (Stihl) carb that's just like every other C1x and uses the same diaphragms, and the same fuel cap they've been putting on some Poulans for over 20 years. 

The fuel lines are of indifferent quality - sometimes they last and sometimes they disintegrate, it probably depends on who they sourced them from that month. Buy a few feet and find a pair of curved forceps, and you'll be able to change the lines in a couple of minutes. The fuel caps sometimes swell, and sometimes not - new ones cost maybe $4 to $6. Get two. If you have a cap that swells store the saw on its side so the fuel is not hitting the cap.

I use nothing but E10 fuel and never drain it. I rarely have to change lines, no more than every couple of years. I've had a couple of caps that swelled but the ones I've bought to replace them don't seem to have any issues.


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## Chris J. (May 18, 2016)

LincTex said:


> Long Term review? OK here's mine:
> Power is GREAT! (for the cost, it can't be beat)
> However....
> I have had this saw for 2 years, and I'm afraid that if I want to keep using it I'm going to have to replace everything in the entire fuel system. It can only be because it HAS GOT TO BE because of inferior rubber and other fuel system components - - I have a variety of saws from Husqvarna, Stihl, Makita (Dolmar), and Jonsered, & they all get the same exact gasoline mix from the same can, and this Poulan is the ONLY ONE that is near impossible to keep running because of fuel related issues. I did buy the special splined screwdriver to adjust the carb (this tool is absolutely 100% vital to own when owning this saw, you will use it every time!) and the gas cap swells up so you can't get it on or off. I'm just so disappointed - I know how plastics are specified in the industry, and Poulan/Electrolux could've spent just 50 cents more per saw to prevent this from happening. The ONLY reason I bought the saw was because the "core engine" itself is made by Husqvarna, but the fuel tank, fuel lines and carb attached to the engine make it worthless and unusable. No matter how good the engine is, it won't run if the fuel system isn't made with good components.
> ...



Where are you located in Texas, genrrally speaking?


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## mexicanyella (May 18, 2016)

Reading LincTex's review, I have to think the 5020 plastic and rubber parts must vary quite a bit in material and execution. A fair number of people who comment on those saws here don't seem to have my issues with the flexy rear handle and the resulting unpredictable throttle performance in various cutting positions, and I have had no fuel issues with mine in the couple of years I've had it. And my carb seems to have held its adjustment too, for the most part. Fuel and bar oil caps are pretty easy to take on and off...

...But I'm not doubting LincTex there...my other Poulan, a 2150, and the similar-but-gray Craftsman that it became the parts donor for, both have fuel cap issues, as in, I need to carry a channel-lock pliers to get them off and install them carefully. Both of those saws require me to keep a small screwdriver handy to keep the carb adjustments sharp...usually every 2-4 uses, minor tweaking will be needed. Aside from that, and I've gotten used to it, they have both treated me well.


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## old guy (May 18, 2016)

I didn't notice that throttle thing caused by the soft av until someone pointed it out and I actually used the saw for a few hours of cutting, I have too many saws and the others get used first.


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## Old grizzly 708 (Oct 24, 2016)

Long term experience. 
Bought the PP5020 back in the late spring of 2012 after reading a review here. (I forget who it was but they had bought one as a test unit??)
Anyway, when we were in northern Michigan we heated a 5 bedroom 1890's farm house with 100% wood heat. I cut close to 175 full cords of mostly maple, oak, and black cherry from the National forest. 
We have since moved to north idaho and cut mostly ponderosa pine.
The only problems I have had are the av springs allowing the linkage to bind, and the swollen gas cap.
Has had a diet of E10 and Ace hdwr bar oil.
I would highly recommend this saw for anything just this side of making a living with a saw.


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## Chris-PA (Oct 24, 2016)

Old grizzly 708 said:


> Long term experience.
> Bought the PP5020 back in the late spring of 2012 after reading a review here. (I forget who it was but they had bought one as a test unit??)
> Anyway, when we were in northern Michigan we heated a 5 bedroom 1890's farm house with 100% wood heat. I cut close to 175 full cords of mostly maple, oak, and black cherry from the National forest.
> We have since moved to north idaho and cut mostly ponderosa pine.
> ...


Oh come on, everyone knows you can't do any real work with a homeowner saw! 

Thanks for the real-world feedback.


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## Vibes (Oct 26, 2016)

I had an issue with my fuel cap on my Jonsered/ Poulan/ Husqvarna 40cc saw. I filed the threads in the field with the raker file that came with my Stihl hand sharpening kit. Totally forgot about that until I read this post. Ran 2 tanks through that saw the other day without a problem.

I've also had the issues with the throttle linkage and weak AV mounts that are common with these. Never messed with it. I just run it and try not to push on it so hard.


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## KennyPete (Oct 31, 2016)

I bought one a few years back to keep at my camp (figuring if someone stole it I wasn't going to cry over a $189 saw.)

I cut a couple cord a year with it, and the neighbors use it whenever they want. Honestly a decent cheap saw. 

I had two problems to date with that saw: 

1.) My gas cap swelled, so I chucked it in the lathe and took 8-10 thousandths off of it. Works great now. 

2.) The AV springs got sloppy over time. I replaced them with ones off donor saw. 

**though it wasn't necessarily a problem, mine spews oil like crazy, but I like it that way. 






Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## Poulan Horder (Nov 21, 2016)

I have 3 of these saws the first one was bought in 2012 and has about 200 cords of firewood cut by it. I do reccomend replacing the 20 in bar with a husqvarna 18in bar and installing a good chisel chain. Id love to see what muffler work Modified Mark would reccomend.


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## mexicanyella (Nov 21, 2016)

It's been awhile since I read it here, and I can't remember which member reported it, but I can confirm...the PP5020AV muffler is an empty can, with an spark arrestor screen on the outlet hole, with a deflector outside of that just to aim the exhaust out away from the plastic housing (and the operator). Short of enlarging the outlet hole, which looked to me like it was a pretty opened-up size anyway, I don't think the muffler is crying out for attention on these models. Mine certainly sounds pretty loud and opened up to me, for a new/stock saw at least.

Now that I have written that, it occurs to me that I can't actually remember if whoever said it first actually tried opening up the hole and running it, or if they just reported on the muffler configuration. For my sawing needs, there's no reason to mod the muffler. Mine has sufficient power. My issue is still the weird handle flexing and throttle movement that it causes. I still haven't addressed that successfully. This winter I plan to replace the rear handle halves and see if I just have a bad/thin/weak/flexy handle, like from poor molding quality control or something. If that doesn't fix it, it will be time for some freaky handle-reinforcing action...the mexicanyella way.


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## TLL (May 24, 2017)

I have had my 5020 for one year now.
I just had the black plastic hub in the center of the recoil break. It has a large spring that allows some movement of the hub when you pull the starter rope, to absorb some shock I guess.
Has anybody else broken this part?
Now that it broke, I am more care full not to pull too forcefully on the recoil. I am afraid it will break again.
TL


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## a. palmer jr. (May 25, 2017)

I recently bought a Poulan 3400 for around $50, think I'd prefer it to a new Poulan saw..


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## LegDeLimber (May 29, 2017)

TLL said:


> I have had my 5020 for one year now.
> I just had the black plastic hub in the center of the recoil break.
> TL


What sort of damage occurred? 
Did it deform and let the spring slip by?
Did the hub crack and lose a bit of itself?

Did the spring end, bend over and stretch the hole in the hub? 
I've seen this happen in some Homelite equipment.
It tends to leave the recoil jammed with the rope hanging out.

I'll just confess to not being a fan of the "easy"-or-"simple" ETC pull
type of recoils, at all.


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## TLL (May 30, 2017)

A piece of the outer rim of the plastic hub broke away and allowed the spring to jump out of the hole in the hub.
It bent the spring, and it was impossible to bend back into useable shape.
I have older McCullochs, Jonsereds, Stihles that have even bigger motors and they do not needs such foolishness to work well.
The only advantage I see, is that the spring takes up some shock, and allows the use of a smaller diameter (weaker) pull cord.
If I could replace the hub and spring and spool with a one piece spool from an older Poulan I would do it in a minute.
TL


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## a. palmer jr. (May 30, 2017)

The 3400 I spoke of earlier is spending it's day in the shop with a broken piston. I tore it down today and the piston is junk but it didn't seem to hurt the cylinder. Hardest part is cleaning up all the dirt and grease in the saw...


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## Modifiedmark (May 30, 2017)

TLL said:


> A piece of the outer rim of the plastic hub broke away and allowed the spring to jump out of the hole in the hub.
> It bent the spring, and it was impossible to bend back into useable shape.
> I have older McCullochs, Jonsereds, Stihles that have even bigger motors and they do not needs such foolishness to work well.
> The only advantage I see, is that the spring takes up some shock, and allows the use of a smaller diameter (weaker) pull cord.
> ...



Yeah I hear you. Its a homeowner saw, lots of homeowners like stuff like that ez start or whatever you call it. The low end Stihls and others come with it to now days. Your saw has a 2 year warranty, did you use it?


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## Modifiedmark (May 30, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> The 3400 I spoke of earlier is spending it's day in the shop with a broken piston. I tore it down today and the piston is junk but it didn't seem to hurt the cylinder. Hardest part is cleaning up all the dirt and grease in the saw...



I don't know what this has to do with anything... .


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## a. palmer jr. (May 30, 2017)

Modifiedmark said:


> I don't know what this has to do with anything... .


 I replied earlier in the post that I preferred the older Poulans to the newer ones, just an update, ignore if you wish..


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## Modifiedmark (May 31, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I replied earlier in the post that I preferred the older Poulans to the newer ones, just an update, ignore if you wish..



Yeah I seen that completely out of the blue irrelevant to this thread post. Go have fun rebuilding your 40 year old saw that is completely the opposite of the saw this thread is about.


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## Old grizzly 708 (Jun 22, 2017)

My latest update....just blew the damn thing up. I think it was my fault. This spring I got maintenance parts. New clutch, sprocket, spark arrester, and AV strap. I got everything done except the AV strap. Well, the strap pulled off and the linkage pushed the throttle past where it normally stops. I mix my fuel a little on the oily side so there was some carbon that broke loose from the exhaust port and gouged the piston, jug, and busted the ring. I had it from spring of 2012 and cut probably 350 full cords of firewood myself as well as loaning it to a friend who did probably 75-100 cords. I used it to take down several trees for neighbors after a bad storm came through. All in all I love this saw and plan on buying another tomorrow.


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## bikemike (Jun 22, 2017)

Old grizzly 708 said:


> My latest update....just blew the damn thing up. I think it was my fault. This spring I got maintenance parts. New clutch, sprocket, spark arrester, and AV strap. I got everything done except the AV strap. Well, the strap pulled off and the linkage pushed the throttle past where it normally stops. I mix my fuel a little on the oily side so there was some carbon that broke loose from the exhaust port and gouged the piston, jug, and busted the ring. I had it from spring of 2012 and cut probably 350 full cords of firewood myself as well as loaning it to a friend who did probably 75-100 cords. I used it to take down several trees for neighbors after a bad storm came through. All in all I love this saw and plan on buying another tomorrow.


Glad you had good luck with it.


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## Philbert (Jun 22, 2017)

Look for reconditioned ones via Google (website link blocked). Since you already have some parts, and know how to work on the saw, you may save a bunch. 

Philbert


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## TBS (Jun 22, 2017)

Old grizzly 708 said:


> My latest update....just blew the damn thing up. I think it was my fault. This spring I got maintenance parts. New clutch, sprocket, spark arrester, and AV strap. I got everything done except the AV strap. Well, the strap pulled off and the linkage pushed the throttle past where it normally stops. I mix my fuel a little on the oily side so there was some carbon that broke loose from the exhaust port and gouged the piston, jug, and busted the ring. I had it from spring of 2012 and cut probably 350 full cords of firewood myself as well as loaning it to a friend who did probably 75-100 cords. I used it to take down several trees for neighbors after a bad storm came through. All in all I love this saw and plan on buying another tomorrow.



You got more than your moneys worth out of it!! As philbert said look for a reconditioned one. If you get the newest version the anti vib is a little stiffer but minus the plastic changes and stiffer anti vib it's the same saw.


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## bikemike (Jun 23, 2017)

Don't know if this helps any but my old 4620 avx had too much slop on the av so I filled the spring with black tire plugs and black silicone gasket maker. It shure made a difference in free hand milling


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## AuerX (Sep 5, 2019)

Had mine for some years now, it's been very reliable and is currently clearing a poison ivy infested corner of my property. Very nice saw.
I have a 16" Forester bar and semi-chisel Forester chains for it. Last well enough and easy to keep sharp.


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