# FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread



## Bedford T

Its been a year since we started building these kit and we have come along way and FarmerTec have made significant improvements. So newcomers don't have to wade though 160 pages. Lets start from scratch. I will put a link in both to the other so if there is something that need to be found, it will be.

I will kick it off with a build using the new improved MS660 kit. Pictures and build videos. It will fill up quick. The kit i just got is the best they have done yet and i will show you why. I can't start the cylinder until tuesday. But will be ready to go, then.

Here whats in the new kit. take a peak at the cylinder finish 












Here is step one of the build. I am going to keep the videos targeted in smaller run times
Case Assembly Step 1


----------



## Bedford T

Here a west coast cover i got from huztl





wrap is an add on with a wrench holder


----------



## Bedford T

I noticed that the plastic seems to all be close in color and nice and shiny, heavy duty.







here is a look at the cylinder, very smooth inside.


----------



## s sidewall

What kind of plating in the bore and is it holding up?

Steve Sidwell, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

I don't know on the cylinder. I will ask. They have a line of nikasil coming out. They had some they bought for sale on eBay and I bought one should be here first of next week and we will compare too. It's cosmetically really great. The kits really have become very professional. Complete, packaged well.


----------



## Bedford T

I got to the point I can complete it. I got quite a bit done will try and finish tomorrow. The ebay Huztl cylinder arrived and it looks exactly like the one in the kit except its pitted. I am going to push this with them and I will report back on it. I waited until the ebay one arrived so i could do it all at once.

On the build I used the cylinder in the kit. My understanding was they were chrome, which is fine, Stihls are chrome. The cylinders were identical, except, the one in the kit was labeled as their normal cylinder just very well prepped, ready to use and I used it. I paid extra for a nikasil cylinder so we will have a prayer meeting on that. I am happy with where I am.


----------



## BuckthornBonnie

Most Stihls are nikasil. Some saws have chrome bores, yes. There's open debate about both options.


----------



## Bedford T

I was speaking of the MS660 cylinders and my only source was what I had read. But I am aware the newer saws are different. They copied the old ones. But anyway here is their take on what an ad means. its happening more and more often on ebay to me not just them. just buyer beware now.

View attachment 602386
View attachment 602387


----------



## Bedford T

This one is longer than I wanted. Its takes a while to get the brake handles bases secured. I started voice overs towards the end and will use that here forward for better videos. The process is under way on verifying those cylinders and will advise as that progresses.

This takes care of the brake, HO oiler, flywheel and coil and I was able to engage and release brake when I finished. Everything is 1st class.

But, they just can not deliver the correct brake parts. Wrong long spring, brake band pin missing and lever would not work. I knew this was likely and had an extra Huztl brake kit on hand. Don't understand why they can not get the right parts in the kit but can if you buy the brake assembly separate. Same ole same o in the 440 kit too. I will nag them until they replace it. Several times with the 660. Its a tend.


----------



## Bedford T

Step 4, clutch and the sprocket


----------



## blsnelling

Bedford T said:


> The kits really have become very professional. Complete, packaged well.





Bedford T said:


> But, they just can not deliver the correct brake parts. Wrong long spring, brake band pin missing and lever would not work. *I knew this was likely* and had an extra Huztl brake kit on hand. Don't understand why they can not get the right parts in the kit but can if you buy the brake assembly separate. Same ole same o in the 440 kit too. I will nag them until they replace it. Several times with the 660. Its a tend.



??? Which is it?


----------



## blsnelling

The floor of the exhaust port looks completely flat, likely to hang a ring.

How is the squishband? Have they resolved the issue with the reverse taper and excessive squish clearance?


----------



## Bedford T

Chain adjuster - 5











Handle Manifold - 6


----------



## Bedford T

Impulse, connecting handle, coil wires under starter cover Step 7


----------



## Bedford T

Step 8 cowl brass bushing, slide, ignition ground wire decomp valve


----------



## Bedford T

step 9 carb, carb box assembly, filtration


----------



## Bedford T

Last build step

step 10

Muffler, wrap handle and if you look at the closing on the video I link over to another video on the pressure /vacuum test.


----------



## davhul

I just ordered 3 of these HO oil pumps. Not a bad price for under $15. Oem is $90
Only one left 
https://m.ebay.com/itm/112417964980?_mwBanner=1


----------



## Bedford T

Zero.....left


----------



## Brian Thacker

I just ordered the 660 big bore kit and hope it comes in niksel. Kind of funky I started it today to cut some wood and it was idling very high and I tried to adjust it down. It all at once idled down after turning it all the way down. I turned it back to where it was and the saw will not start. I changed the plug, no help. I squirted some fuel into the carb and it would start on that fuel and then quit. I pulled the carb and cleaned it but it was not dirty at all. Could spray threw everything. I am wondering if maybe one of the crank seals have gone?

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> I just ordered the 660 big bore kit and hope it comes in niksel. Kind of funky I started it today to cut some wood and it was idling very high and I tried to adjust it down. It all at once idled down after turning it all the way down. I turned it back to where it was and the saw will not start. I changed the plug, no help. I squirted some fuel into the carb and it would start on that fuel and then quit. I pulled the carb and cleaned it but it was not dirty at all. Could spray threw everything. I am wondering if maybe one of the crank seals have gone?
> 
> Brian


Did you pressure test it after assembly? I am very unhappy with the 660 nikasil cylinder I got. I will wash my hands of them if they don't make it right. I was the only huztl solider who saw benefit in them.

The kits they sell normally are chrome they had the one I purchased label nikasil on eBay.

It sounds like a leak. I had a big leak and it would not start no matter what I did. My first kit was a real lesson. Bought me a tester and never had that issue again. Just too many ways for it to leak. Soapy water under pressure is amazing. Like an old pointer dog.


----------



## Brian Thacker

I did test it when I first put it together. I have put a bunch of hours on it sense I put it together and it has always been a great saw. It feels like it still has good compression and all. I do think I developed a air leak and think I may have blew a crank seal. I used Three Bond gasket sealer on the case halves when I put it together along with the gasket. I pulled the carb and ran my finger down the intake tube and it felt like everything was alright but you never know. I just need to break it down and see what is wrong. I did order new crank seals and another carb and a few other parts like a gasket set and so forth just to keep on hand. Like I said I have cut a lot of wood with it to this point, a lot of big wood and it had performed great until this point. I am going to wait until the big bore kit and seals come in and tare into it and see what is going on. I love the saw and it performs great. A friend on the McCulloch site and I are making a chainsaw dyno. He has 2 factory Stihl MS660s. I am wanting to put both on the dyno when we get it finished and see how my saw performs against a factory Stihl. I am also going to order a 070 kit. Don't really need a saw that big as I have a McCulloch SP125c but I just like the look and sound of the 070 you put on Youtube. They just look and sound soo cool. When I find out what went wrong I will post it here. I am sure it is not much as it has plenty compression and will start if primed. I have been getting some really bad gas lately and just wonder if maybe the carb is stopped up and I did not see it because I cleaned the carb out in the field and used a can of starter fluid to blow threw the jets. It was all I had, a guy had it in the tool box on his truck.


I own a motorcycle shop and this is a pic of a set of carbs that I cleaned in the heated ultrasonic. The guy could not pick it up for a couple weeks. When he came to pick it up it would not run properly and fuel started pouring out of the over flows so I pulled the carbs and this is what I found. This from setting 2 weeks and the fuel that was in his tank came from a station that advertises no ethanol. 




Here is the carbs after I had ran them threw the cleaner for the second time. You can see a little corrosion left in them but a lot cleaner than before. I drained the gas from his tank and put in fresh. I took some of the old fuel and put it into an old genset I had just repaired the gas tank with redkote and JB Weld. (an old genset I have had for many years and just keep around for what ever) I started smelling fuel and found it pouring out of the tank. It had ate threw the redkote and the JB weld felt like clay. I have never seen this before and I have repaired many tanks throughout the years like this.
So it could very well be the fuel/carb. By the way the fuel the spilled out onto the floor of my shop ate the 10 year old paint that nothing else had ate threw it bubbled it up. Don't know what is going on with the fuel but always suspect it from now on.

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

It's great you have been cutting so it's not a new problem. Any problem is bad. Just where to start. You should pressure test it again before disturbing your work. Sounds like it's well built...made in america...Get a can of true fuel and try your new carb first. The 070 does sound cool, cuts good too. Good luck, if we can help speak up.

Ps
Dyno test would be awesome


----------



## Bedford T

If you have interest in using a carb with a replaceable jet, I have found the HLiC to be very reliable. I find the .67 and .69 jets to small. So here are some snaps of the carb. I also heard of an aftermarket brand... ABC that offered the same opportunity.


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> Here is the carbs after I had ran them threw the cleaner for the second time. You can see a little corrosion left in them but a lot cleaner than before. I drained the gas from his tank and put in fresh. I took some of the old fuel and put it into an old genset I had just repaired the gas tank with redkote and JB Weld. (an old genset I have had for many years and just keep around for what ever) I started smelling fuel and found it pouring out of the tank. It had ate threw the redkote and the JB weld felt like clay. I have never seen this before and I have repaired many tanks throughout the years like this.
> So it could very well be the fuel/carb. By the way the fuel the spilled out onto the floor of my shop ate the 10 year old paint that nothing else had ate threw it bubbled it up. Don't know what is going on with the fuel but always suspect it from now on.
> 
> Brian



I got to come back to your post and look closer. you might consider checking with your local airport. they have a fuel in many parts of the country called A100 and it is very high quality and will last about two years in a closed container and almost guaranteed to be real clean, they put it in planes. I use it in my saws with my favorite oil and the lines don't dissolve or clog the carbs. They started selling a new fuel at the gas stations with even less fuel in it. Some gas stations sell straight gas. There is an phone app that will tell you where yours are. 

we might be pushed to use diesel, gas has gotten much nastier then.


----------



## Brian Thacker

My MS660 has the HLiC carb. It came with it. I noticed the changeable jet when I had it apart and noticed the brand. While I had it apart I was thinking this thing has a very nice carb.

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> My MS660 has the HLiC carb. It came with it. I noticed the changeable jet when I had it apart and noticed the brand. While I had it apart I was thinking this thing has a very nice carb.
> 
> Brian


They quit using them. So I went hunting. You have been using yours a while.


----------



## Brian Thacker

I have had mine 2 or 3 months. Well I figured out what went wrong with the saw. My cylinder bolts backed off. I thought when I put it together I lock tighten them but I must not have. But it does have the locking head and it dug into the aluminium really good. Will lock tight them good this time. As I was typing I thought, I think it had lock tight on the bolts factory. I don't know. I did not put any on it because I have the big bore kit ordered and won't be cutting with it much until then.

Brian


----------



## davhul

Glad to here nothing major was wrong. Are you using a oem wrist pin bearing? 
I normally put a 1/4" socket on my ratchet and use this t27 to tighten those bolts.


----------



## Bedford T

Odd that's exactly why mine would not start no matter what I did or how I held my mouth. No trouble since. Checkem once and while now.


----------



## Brian Thacker

davhul said:


> Glad to here nothing major was wrong. Are you using a oem wrist pin bearing?
> I normally put a 1/4" socket on my ratchet and use this t27 to tighten those bolts.



davhul where did you get that tool?

Brian
Bedford, I was messing with it this evening, done a proper cleaning of the carb but did not see anything. I put the carb back on but did not put the air filter or cover on so I could check for leaks. Just ran the nuts up against the carb. I was cranking it over slowly and saw what I thought was the DSP valve move. I took the cylinder cover off and you could wiggle the cylinder. One of the screws was missing and I found it in the flywheel cover. So I tighten everything up and she fired right up. I am using the wrist pin bearing that came with the kit. Are they bad, should I replace it with a Stihl?

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> davhul where did you get that tool?
> 
> Brian
> Bedford, I was messing with it this evening, done a proper cleaning of the carb but did not see anything. I put the carb back on but did not put the air filter or cover on so I could check for leaks. Just ran the nuts up against the carb. I was cranking it over slowly and saw what I thought was the DSP valve move. I took the cylinder cover off and you could wiggle the cylinder. One of the screws was missing and I found it in the flywheel cover. So I tighten everything up and she fired right up. I am using the wrist pin bearing that came with the kit. Are they bad, should I replace it with a Stihl?
> 
> Brian


What Dave was referring to was a rash of failures with the bearing. When you step back and look at it that bearing is awfully important. It decimates the top when it fails. So the thinking is why not just to be sure. 

Also when we look at what your showing us the oils properties could be affected by the sorry gas and a oem bearing might be all the insurance you need for a longterm relationship with a fine saw

On that tool ask your still dealer the part# is on the bag. $10 maybe or less. 6" t27


----------



## davhul

It's from Stihl. 
That one part # is 
0812 540 1112. 
If you want one that a 1/4" socket head it's 0812 542 2104. 
Yeah the bearing have been know to fail. I'm going back in 2 that has had some hours on them and replacing.


----------



## Brian Thacker

Thank You guys, I will get one on order ASAP. 
I just went out and sunk it full bar in a piece of good red oak. It right now has a 28" bar and it just kept pulling. Strong as can be. I started to order the 36" bar on my last order for just incase I get into some big stuff, which I am always getting into, but backed out on ordering it. Now I am thinking I need to order it. It will pull it and sometimes I need it. I have a 36" Stihl Bar that I am using on my McCulloch SP125c. It's a 404 but I could just change the sprocket on the clutch and use that bar when I need it, or just use the McCulloch. I bet with the big bore kit a 36" bar will be no problem.
I will order a OEM bearing and put it in when I install the big bore kit.

Thanks
Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> Thank You guys, I will get one on order ASAP.
> I just went out and sunk it full bar in a piece of good red oak. It right now has a 28" bar and it just kept pulling. Strong as can be. I started to order the 36" bar on my last order for just incase I get into some big stuff, which I am always getting into, but backed out on ordering it. Now I am thinking I need to order it. It will pull it and sometimes I need it. I have a 36" Stihl Bar that I am using on my McCulloch SP125c. It's a 404 but I could just change the sprocket on the clutch and use that bar when I need it, or just use the McCulloch. I bet with the big bore kit a 36" bar will be no problem.
> I will order a OEM bearing and put it in when I install the big bore kit.
> 
> Thanks
> Brian


Order you a 070 and a 36" for it. Lol
92,106,125


----------



## Brian Thacker

That is going to be my next purchase. I started to order it this last order but money is a little tight right now but it may be a Christmas present from me to me. I think they look soo cool and sound really cool. We are thinking about hosting a GTG here in November. You need to bring your 070 and put it on the dyno. See how it does. When I order the 070 I will get the 36" bar for it. Which one would you get, the 3/8 or the 404.


Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> That is going to be my next purchase. I started to order it this last order but money is a little tight right now but it may be a Christmas present from me to me. I think they look soo cool and sound really cool. We are thinking about hosting a GTG here in November. You need to bring your 070 and put it on the dyno. See how it does. When I order the 070 I will get the 36" bar for it. Which one would you get, the 3/8 or the 404.
> 
> 
> Brian


I use the .404 on mine. I bought a cannon bar at the time huztl did not sell one. Let me know about the details and I will definitely try and come.


----------



## davhul

The bearings fit tighter in the Stihl on the right











Oem wrist pin on right


----------



## Brian Thacker

OEM wrist pin is lighter. Less mass higher RPM.

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> OEM wrist pin is lighter. Less mass higher RPM.
> 
> Brian


No he show me.


----------



## ccarley

Does Huztl have that clutch cover listed somewhere on their site? I see it on ebay, but haven't located it yet on their site.

Clay


----------



## Brian Thacker

http://www.huztl.net/Chain-Sprocket...-MS460-MS650-MS660-1125-640-1701-p228134.html

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

ccarley said:


> Does Huztl have that clutch cover listed somewhere on their site? I see it on ebay, but haven't located it yet on their site.
> 
> Clay


It will make it look fat lol


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> http://www.huztl.net/Chain-Sprocket...-MS460-MS650-MS660-1125-640-1701-p228134.html
> 
> Brian


Will you post some pics of the coating on your new cylinder when you get it? Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

I changed the cylinder on mine before I even started it. Both tests were successful and I moved the flywheel under vacuum and it pulsed like it should have. I do have the decomp hole plugged for the test.


----------



## Bedford T

I re jiggered the filter and got the option I bought to work


----------



## Brian Thacker

Bedford T said:


> Will you post some pics of the coating on your new cylinder when you get it? Thanks


I will do.
Brian


----------



## Bedford T

This is final show. Tested and ready to meet it's new bar chain and some delicious wood.


----------



## Brian Thacker

I started to buy one of those type filters. Mine just has the stock paper filter right now. I would rather have a foam filter. Do you oil that foam filter? I have rode and raced motorcycles all my life and you usually oil them with a special oil that is very tacky and I would think that would be very good in this environment. I always carry an extra filter because after putting that oil on it you would have a hard time cleaning it in the field. I usually use Dawn dish soap to clean this type of filter. But that would keep anything out of the intake. I also use grease around the contact surface where the airfilter seal onto the carb adaptor. 


Brian


----------



## Brian Thacker

Do you do any muffler mods on your saws?

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> Do you do any muffler mods on your saws?
> 
> Brian


I will take both your at once. The grease is a good idea. I like you, used paper filters until I saw this one and it had the prefilter I use on all my paper filters. I thought the baffle might be worth a try. The oil filter is the best filter. Our team mate davhul bought one of those maxfilters and I think he is pleased with it except for the crappy thin orange cover. I asked them if they had plans to put a better one in the filter kit and they told me to go buy a 661 the plastic was better on that filter kit. Lol right. I have not oiled the foam under the paper filter. I thought they were using it more as a baffle than a filter. i thought the oil would mess up the paper. I did a good muffler mod on my 029. These kits have dual ports and not much restrictions and have not touched them. I think a mod can have added value depending on the muffler.


----------



## Bedford T

Here's the 029 I did


----------



## Brian Thacker

I looked at the first picture that you posted and thought it was a solid foam filter. I did not realize it was just a pre filter over a paper filter. I own a small motorcycle shop and I buy a very thin kind of course filter material for road bikes. Now you have me thinking about building a pre filter for my paper filters. The pre filter can be oiled and it will pick up a surprising amount of fine dirt with little to no restriction. I also keep it for very dusty off road races. I can put one on my bike filter and keep my main filter cleaner. Like on the Colorado 500 I can just remove the pre filter during the race and have a relatively fresh main filter. A paper filter with a foam oiled would keep your main filter cleaner for longer. You could keep an extra pre filter in a baggie pre oiled and change it during the day. This would give you a clean main paper filter instead of needing to clean it mid day and would make your paper filter last longer. I will see how much material I have in stock and try and make one tomorrow and post it here. It would be easy to make.

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> I looked at the first picture that you posted and thought it was a solid foam filter. I did not realize it was just a pre filter over a paper filter. I own a small motorcycle shop and I buy a very thin kind of course filter material for road bikes. Now you have me thinking about building a pre filter for my paper filters. The pre filter can be oiled and it will pick up a surprising amount of fine dirt with little to no restriction. I also keep it for very dusty off road races. I can put one on my bike filter and keep my main filter cleaner. Like on the Colorado 500 I can just remove the pre filter during the race and have a relatively fresh main filter. A paper filter with a foam oiled would keep your main filter cleaner for longer. You could keep an extra pre filter in a baggie pre oiled and change it during the day. This would give you a clean main paper filter instead of needing to clean it mid day and would make your paper filter last longer. I will see how much material I have in stock and try and make one tomorrow and post it here. It would be easy to make.
> 
> Brian


Great. I like pre filters. Made sense to me and I took up using them. Your experience with bikes gives you an edge with filtration knowledge. My buddy is way up on it also. I learn when I can.


----------



## Brian Thacker

What is this baffle? Can it be used instead of the foam in the paper filter? Is it used if you switch to the foam filter?

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> What is this baffle? Can it be used instead of the foam in the paper filter? Is it used if you switch to the foam filter?
> 
> Brian


Yes I think they are used foam as a cost savings measure. The baffle should work fine. I am working on my saw if I don't get side tracked I will remove the foam from the paper filter and see if the baffle fits.


----------



## Bedford T

Okay stopped and did it. Works


----------



## Bedford T

Guess which one was used on a fresh cylinder? Guess which one is the Stihl? Lol


----------



## Brian Thacker

I did not know they had this.


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> I did not know they had this.


People have various issues with the huztl. Mostly the cord. I replaced the cord with a stihl. My compression was so high as he pulled it, well it speaks for itself. It could happen to the Stihl, maybe. I got it installed. We will see.


----------



## krushing73

Thank you so much for making the videos. Don’t think I would have tried without it


----------



## Bedford T

krushing73 said:


> Thank you so much for making the videos. Don’t think I would have tried without it


Thank you. It's kinda fun isn't? It seemed daunting to me as well. I happen to have a friend who has a lot of patience and he would answer the 1000 question I would have. The videos seemed like a way to pay it forward.


----------



## Brian Thacker

You wanted pictures of my cylinder before I put it on so here you go. The plating did not look bad at all. I am not sure if it was chrome or Nikasil. Nikasil usually has a yellow tent to it but the cylinders that I have been getting Nicomed do not have the yellow tent and this could be Nicom. Either way it does have the ports chamfered and everything looks good and smooth.


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> You wanted pictures of my cylinder before I put it on so here you go. The plating did not look bad at all. I am not sure if it was chrome or Nikasil. Nikasil usually has a yellow tent to it but the cylinders that I have been getting Nicomed do not have the yellow tent and this could be Nicom. Either way it does have the ports chamfered and everything looks good and smooth.
> 
> View attachment 604987
> View attachment 604988
> View attachment 604989
> View attachment 604990
> View attachment 604991


Thank you. Do you see a coating on top of the metal? Your looks like mine and my wager was it was not there. I spoke with a company that coats motorcycle cylinders and they said they would look at for me. I got all shook up as he used to say. Nikasil is a coating. If you say you can't see a coating I am sending it to them. Yours is discolored further in and that looks to be metal.
It is nicely prepared


----------



## Brian Thacker

It does appear to be on top of the metal. Nikasil or Nicom seams to blend down into the aluminum and chrome seams to show it's edges more so than nikasil or nicom. I am pretty sure that my cylinder is chrome which is not that bad. I have rebuilt old McCullochs that have a lot of hours on them with chrome bores and they have performed great. Yes Nikasil is a lot harder and adheres to the aluminum better. I prefer Nikasil but have ran chrome bores for many years without problems.

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> It does appear to be on top of the metal. Nikasil or Nicom seams to blend down into the aluminum and chrome seams to show it's edges more so than nikasil or nicom. I am pretty sure that my cylinder is chrome which is not that bad. I have rebuilt old McCullochs that have a lot of hours on them with chrome bores and they have performed great. Yes Nikasil is a lot harder and adheres to the aluminum better. I prefer Nikasil but have ran chrome bores for many years without problems.
> 
> Brian


I am the guy that keeps them focused. I felt strongly that mine was chrome. Well prepared. But they said nikasil and with me they need to be staight up. Thanks again for your effort in answering my question. Having the larger cylinder will give you more ump. I would like to build a 460. Don't have one.


----------



## davhul

Brian Thacker said:


> It does appear to be on top of the metal. Nikasil or Nicom seams to blend down into the aluminum and chrome seams to show it's edges more so than nikasil or nicom. I am pretty sure that my cylinder is chrome which is not that bad. I have rebuilt old McCullochs that have a lot of hours on them with chrome bores and they have performed great. Yes Nikasil is a lot harder and adheres to the aluminum better. I prefer Nikasil but have ran chrome bores for many years without problems.
> 
> Brian



With a chrome bore would you want to run atleast 40:1 for extra protection? Or maybe even 32 like the old Mccullochs


----------



## krushing73

davhul said:


> With a chrome bore would you want to run atleast 40:1 for extra protection? Or maybe even 32 like the old Mccullochs



It’s not the end of the world if you have to replace top end in 3-4 years of hard use. I’d run it like I stole it. Maybe even have a top end on the shelf for the price you can buy one from them.


----------



## Brian Thacker

Most of my old chrome Macs run 40:1 even my 125s. The only one that uses anything different is my PM800. It uses 32:1 and that is because of it's high performance I am told. I am going to as Krushing73 said, run it like I stole it. I have had Macs that have tons of hours on them and the chrome is still good.
I did not start it last night when I finished it. I wanted the gasket dressing to dry before I start it or even pressure/vacuum test it.

Brian


----------



## davhul

I've got a old husky L77 that now has a NOS topend and I believe it's Chrome. The old one had years of hard service before a out of tune carb took it out. Nikasil can normally be cleaned up better than it did. 
Got my HO oil pumps will try one out this weekend.


----------



## Brian Thacker

I tell you one thing I was disappointed with was I ordered a Chip Guard they have for sale. Do not purchase them. They do not fit. The holes that they mount to do not line up.





You see the holes that goes to pins in the case, they do not line up. The top pin lines up but the bottom pin is 1/2 in long.

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> I tell you one thing I was disappointed with was I ordered a Chip Guard they have for sale. Do not purchase them. They do not fit. The holes that they mount to do not line up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see the holes that goes to pins in the case, they do not line up. The top pin lines up but the bottom pin is 1/2 in long.
> 
> Brian


 that is for the west coast cover and may not fit the regular cover, if that's not the case, If you get time tell them. The website has a message system. Give them item #. They usually improve with feedback.


----------



## Brian Thacker

Thanks. I am not familiar with the west coast cover, can you explain the difference in them please. I put the full wrap handlebar on the saw. It had been shipped with just wrapping around it stuffed into a shipping bag with a bunch of other items I had purchased. It got bent rather badly in transit so I had to make several adjustments to it before it would fit. I ran the saw today. Seams like the idle is a bit erratic. I tried to adjust it out of it but just had to come to a happy mediocre. That cylinder really woke that saw up and it is not broke in yet. I heat cycled it 3 times and then checked the cylinder bolts to ensure they were still good and tight. I took it out to my wood pile where I had an old piece of a tree that I could not do much with. It is where the oak tree forked into many directions. Really just a big stump all knotted up. Some really tough stuff. I sunk the bar in it and when I got the 28" bar fully into the stump I really bared down on it. The bar fully sunk in this 30 something inch knott, me bearing down hard on the saw and it did not choke, it just keep on cutting. Man it is a beast. I was hesitant to put a 32" bar on it before. I have no hesitation at all now. It will pull it with no problem at all.

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> Thanks. I am not familiar with the west coast cover, can you explain the difference in them please. I put the full wrap handlebar on the saw. It had been shipped with just wrapping around it stuffed into a shipping bag with a bunch of other items I had purchased. It got bent rather badly in transit so I had to make several adjustments to it before it would fit. I ran the saw today. Seams like the idle is a bit erratic. I tried to adjust it out of it but just had to come to a happy mediocre. That cylinder really woke that saw up and it is not broke in yet. I heat cycled it 3 times and then checked the cylinder bolts to ensure they were still good and tight. I took it out to my wood pile where I had an old piece of a tree that I could not do much with. It is where the oak tree forked into many directions. Really just a big stump all knotted up. Some really tough stuff. I sunk the bar in it and when I got the 28" bar fully into the stump I really bared down on it. The bar fully sunk in this 30 something inch knott, me bearing down hard on the saw and it did not choke, it just keep on cutting. Man it is a beast. I was hesitant to put a 32" bar on it before. I have no hesitation at all now. It will pull it with no problem at all.
> 
> Brian


Post #2 on the west coast cover. They wrap everything like a mummy. The handle is a tight fit, even the oem. I remarked it required 3 hands and a rubber mallet to get it on. Glad you are happy. I could see your cut from that description. Saws are fun


----------



## Brian Thacker

My bars did not have the wrench holder. I am disappointed.

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> My bars did not have the wrench holder. I am disappointed.
> 
> Brian


Lol
Stihl part# 1128 891 8600 will fix you up. You can find it on the ms440 IPL under conversion kit


----------



## Brian Thacker

Thanks


----------



## TreeJoe

Very nice thread


----------



## Brian Thacker

Does any one have trouble with the DSP valve closing about half way threw the stroke during start. Man mine will about break your fingers. When you are starting it, the DSP valve will close about half way threw the pull and it will dead stop the starter and many times kick back. Man it is very hard on the fingers. After putting on the big bore kit it is really bad.

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> Does any one have trouble with the DSP valve closing about half way threw the stroke during start. Man mine will about break your fingers. When you are starting it, the DSP valve will close about half way threw the pull and it will dead stop the starter and many times kick back. Man it is very hard on the fingers. After putting on the big bore kit it is really bad.
> 
> Brian


Is it a Stihl decomp? If it's not get one. You saw what it did to my handle and I have a Stihl decomp. They got a lot of compression. The famertec valve is not up to snuff. They must have a spring in them. Every FarmerTec I had had to be reset each pull and that is hard on ya too.

And your sure your rings are not pinched?


----------



## Brian Thacker

Tell me about it. I was putting seals in the McCulloch 101b saw today and it started doing the same thing. Then went to cut some wood and the 660+ doing the same thing. Both will about tare your fingers off.
You know I had then on the same shelve. One is teaching the other bad habits....LOL

Brian


----------



## blsnelling

Bedford T said:


> And your sure your rings are not pinched?


Pinched rings?


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> Tell me about it. I was putting seals in the McCulloch 101b saw today and it started doing the same thing. Then went to cut some wood and the 660+ doing the same thing. Both will about tare your fingers off.
> You know I had then on the same shelve. One is teaching the other bad habits....LOL
> 
> Brian


You need to separate them. Give them a time out lol


----------



## davhul

I think I remember a while back someone saying the FT decomp had a larger bleed hole which would cause it to pop up to early.


----------



## cre73

First thanks for the videos. They are great, but I believe I screwed up already. I got my case halves put together, went perfectly with a frozen crank and slightly heated bearings. But after looking at a couple other threads I did not install the oil line in the crankcase. I assume I have to now split the case? What is the easiest way to do that. Thanks again.


----------



## dswensen

cre73 said:


> First thanks for the videos. They are great, but I believe I screwed up already. I got my case halves put together, went perfectly with a frozen crank and slightly heated bearings. But after looking at a couple other threads I did not install the oil line in the crankcase. I assume I have to now split the case? What is the easiest way to do that. Thanks again.



No, you should be able to put it in with the help of a curved hemostat. You can get that tool at Harbor Freight, and it's a good tool to have around if you plan to work on saws much.

Just put the pick-up body on the line, and insert the line, pick-up body first, through the hole where oil line installs. Work it in past the bend in the oil line. If you need a bit of tension on the line to seat it once it's in, you can grab it with the hemostat through the oil fill hole and pull a bit. I preferred to install the line this way to keep it away from the heat I used to put the case halves together. 

Good luck!


----------



## cre73

Thanks for the reply, just looked things over and got it right in. Panic mode is over. Now if my OEM circlips would get here so I can continue.


----------



## Bedford T

cre73 said:


> Thanks for the reply, just looked things over and got it right in. Panic mode is over. Now if my OEM circlips would get here so I can continue.


Panic is the worst. It goes away after a few times and you just become annoyed.


----------



## Bedford T

Guys I got a crushed MS270 coming today. Gonna do some rebuild vids. It's got a magnesium and plastic case. Stay tuned to see how they pulled that one off


----------



## Brian Thacker

Cut most all day with the MS660 with 56mm kit and 28" bar. Was cutting in 32+ inch oak and maple all day. The saw pull strong all day keeping the bar full buried all day long without a hiccup. The more I use this saw the more I love it. I did have to stop once to readjust the carb just a touch. I think as it breaks in the carb changes. I had it running a little on the rich side for break-in purposes and it did not want to idel so I leaned it down just a hair and she is perfect now. With the 56mm kit on it, it sounds different. It has a raspier sound to it, kind of a meaner sound like a big saw should. 




Brian


----------



## Bedford T

That's a good photo. Bar gone hunting for deep wood. You made that. God made the tree and you built the saw. Nothing like it. What mix ratio are you using?


----------



## Brian Thacker

40:1 Mix. Non Ethanol Maxima Racing oil.
I did not cut anything today under 32" and much of it 36-38-40". It loved it. Only other hiccup was the wood was on concrete and I hit the concrete once and dulled the heck out of my chain. I had a fresh one with me, so I changed to a new chain and kept on going.

Brian


----------



## cre73

One more small issue I had. My clutch drum went on very tight. So tight that I ended up trashing the supplied bearing and had to use an OEM one. OEM bearing was just as tight. Would fit over crank easily, also would fit inside clutch drum easily. But putting it together I had to persuade it quite a bit, it was very lubed even spit on it and it didn't help. Wouldn't even want to think what it may take to get apart. Everything turns freely I do not believe it is bound in any way. Has anyone else seen this issue.

Still waiting on my OEM circlips for the wrist pin. So the saw build is on hold for now.


----------



## davhul

The drum may not be the correct one they have been known to substitute wrong parts. But if it is right. 
You may already know there's a notch on the drum that has to align with the worm gear arm. And if your brake band is bent any that may cause you problems.

This may help you. I was playing with my camera Friday when installing my oil pump. 
I used tools everyone may have even a rope for a piston stop. Just make sure the piston is above the exhaust port before installing the rope.


----------



## Bedford T

cre73 said:


> One more small issue I had. My clutch drum went on very tight. So tight that I ended up trashing the supplied bearing and had to use an OEM one. OEM bearing was just as tight. Would fit over crank easily, also would fit inside clutch drum easily. But putting it together I had to persuade it quite a bit, it was very lubed even spit on it and it didn't help. Wouldn't even want to think what it may take to get apart. Everything turns freely I do not believe it is bound in any way. Has anyone else seen this issue.
> 
> Still waiting on my OEM circlips for the wrist pin. So the saw build is on hold for now.


Mine was tight as dicks hat band. It spins. That will work itself out after you run it a bit. How long of a wait on your circlips. 3-4 days?


----------



## cre73

Bedford T said:


> Mine was tight as dicks hat band. It spins. That will work itself out after you run it a bit. How long of a wait on your circlips. 3-4 days?




Thanks for the replies guys, makes me feel better. Yes it had the notch for the oil pump arm. Wait on the clips is now at 8 days. Ordered last Sunday. Tracking said they should of been delivered on Saturday. Didn't make it. Spent most of Saturday staring at mailbox waiting for the mail lady to drive by and nuttin.


----------



## Brian Thacker

My clutch was very tight also when I put it on. I used a piece of emery cloth and just sanded the inside where the shaft and bearing goes a little, not much. It fits good now.

Brian


----------



## IQRaceworks

I'm thinking about buying one of these kits from Huztl.......how do they seem to hold up with some good hard use? Are they a decent kit....or junk?


----------



## Brian Thacker

So far have ran the heck out of mine. I have a 28" bar and it has been buried to the heilt most of the time and so far it has held up great.
Brian


----------



## Bedford T

IQRaceworks said:


> I'm thinking about buying one of these kits from Huztl.......how do they seem to hold up with some good hard use? Are they a decent kit....or junk?


You have a selection. Ms440 kit and the ms660 kit are good bets. Consider what you are cutting. I really like the ms380. It took me almost a year to figure out that the handle carb box is about 5mm to shallow and it can effect the way it runs because the choke is inside the filter. You can force the oem filter in. Oem has a better spring. I can't believe no one has spoken up about that issue. I search and messed and finally figured it out. The other handles are from the same mold. You will see some handles only sold with covers thinking they whipped it. But no that filter is very important on that saw because of the choke butterfly. But it's a heck of a saw. Best materials of them all. Both the 440 and 660 are top notch. If your not cutting big wood consider everything. Best bet is to buy both.


----------



## IQRaceworks

What about a bar? The Oregon 32" bars are crazy expensive.......is there some china brand 32" bar I can get for a good price that will match the China 660 Huztl saw kit? I didn't see any on the Huztl site that big.


----------



## Bedford T

I had to settle with the 28". Did not see one priced Right. If you find one be sure and post.


----------



## cre73

I got a 36in Oregon and two woodland pro chains for 125 off Amazon. I was pretty happy with the price.


----------



## Bedford T

Since last post I found a Stens 36" for <$60 @ Maverick mower. An excellent price


----------



## cre73

Bedford T said:


> Since last post I found a Stens 36" for <$60 @ Maverick mower. An excellent price



That is a pretty good price, book marked the page for the future.


----------



## Brian Thacker

Well I lost crankcase pressure and vacuum. I had an extra crank seals. Replcaed the one on the PTO side and it still leaks.

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> Well I lost crankcase pressure and vacuum. I had an extra crank seals. Replcaed the one on the PTO side and it still leaks.
> 
> Brian


Bummer. Was it a FarmerTec seal you replaced it with? Did you put dirko or something similar on the rim of the seal? What's you gut feeling on the cause? Did you have another failure recently that messes with the crank? PTO side is the tricky one, can't recall? The one with the lip that can cause issues with the spring?


----------



## Brian Thacker

I replaced the PTO side with a Farmer Tech seal. It being Saturday night that is all I had. When I put seals in I use Maxium Waterproof grease and lube the rubber lip of the seal and use gasket sealer around the outside of the seal. I use alcohol and wipe everything down before applying sealant and grease so everything is clean and oil/grease free. I have an extra deep socket that I use as a seal driver. I have installed many seals in saws and motorcycles and use extreme caution to ensure to not damage the seal or sealing area and or seal seat. I started it up and it started reving as I would adjust the low control and the more I richened it up the higher it revved so I suspect the fresh rebuild. I have the flywheel off and that seal looks good but I am going to replace it.

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

You did all the right things, surely it's a one off. I had to pull my cross jug off I was so proud of it. Piston rubbing. The farmertec top I used does no have that issue. The recoil broke twice trying to start it. Mostly oem parts, shredded them parts. Another bummer. Got it broke down. And ready in about 5-6 hours


----------



## grizz55chev

anybody buying that crap will get what they pay for, no self respecting person that relies on these kits to make money as a faller or arborist might just as well burn their money.


----------



## Brian Thacker

By the way it has a 56mm kit on it. I would not suspect anything there checked mounting screws and they are all tight. But you never know. I guess I am just going to have to pressure test it and see where the leak is. I checked the intake and the pulse hose and they both seam to be fine. I think I will start it and spray carb cleaner around everything and see if I can find the leak this way.

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> By the way it has a 56mm kit on it. I would not suspect anything there checked mounting screws and they are all tight. But you never know. I guess I am just going to have to pressure test it and see where the leak is. I checked the intake and the pulse hose and they both seam to be fine. I think I will start it and spray carb cleaner around everything and see if I can find the leak this way.
> 
> Brian


Remember your decomp will cause a fail on the pressure test. On the cylinder I was just showing you one offs that can effect us. An upgrade cylinder wreaking havoc... unexpected. Definitely do a test


----------



## Brian Thacker

I plan to. I have a bolt to put in place of the DSP valve so there is no leakage. I just got to find my stopper and exhaust blockoff plate. Don't remember where I put them.


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> I plan to. I have a bolt to put in place of the DSP valve so there is no leakage. I just got to find my stopper and exhaust blockoff plate. Don't remember where I put them.


Where was your leak?


----------



## Bedford T

I bought a cross cylinder kit to put on this kit. I wrote about the finishes on the cylinders between nikasil and the farmertec. i recently got a big surprise on the cross.

I have some damaged lungs and have trouble starting huge saws sometimes, so this problem was slow to raise its head. I was delayed by the guys work schedule who helps me. so anyway...

He broke the recoil twice and that should have been a warning to me. First time I thought it was something I had done in building it, it was the day i planned to tune it. I had already used a stihl rotor in the build, but anyway I fixed it. next time he could, he tried to crank it again. i watched and knew he was having a really hard time pulling it. he is healthy and strong as an ox. then the recoil melted. bent the spring deformed the edges of two stihl pawls. i knew then something was bad wrong.

i had just read another post on one that two cranks had failed and in the end the cross cylinder was the common denominator. so i emptied out my fluids and did a mind meld with the saw. when the piston was all the way down and when you start up i would hear a ping. movement was around 1mm. very repeatable. so i stripped both sides so nothing could be misleading me. ping.

so i pulled the cylinder and you can see scuffs. the engine idled for about 3 minutes the day i built it. the linkage was not hooked up so i could only idle...thankfully. so i have installed the farmertec cylinder and now no ping, and the correct amount of resistance from compression. my buddy has more real world experience and i am sending it to him for review. i asked the other guy when he acquired his and never got an answer so i am not sure if it was possible they could be from same production run.

those cylinders are not cheap, i wonder how many other folks had a problem and are blaming other parts. i love building but tearing that saw apart to remove a nice looking cylinder was a pita and expensive.


----------



## Brian Thacker

Well I now have more info on what happened to my saw. It seams like I must have not gotten the clamp on the intake boot right. It slipped backwards and as the saw ran it started cutting into the rubber until it cut into the boot enough to cause an air leak. Not sure how that happened. It had another flap cut out about half way between the carb and the cylinder. Not sure how that happened. Both were on the under side of the boot, both were very clean cuts. My problem is how could this saw run and cut for at least a month and I mean I bucked a bunch of big timber, how could have the saw done this with a cut like it had in the intake boot? I don't understand how the boot got the center cut, nothing there to cut it and how did it run and run good with a 1/8" flap cut in it. I will get pictures.

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Wow that's journey. Glad you found it. The boot being cut like that is very odd. Not much room in there. Looking forward to the photos


----------



## blsnelling

Bedford T said:


> You did all the right things, surely it's a one off. I had to pull my cross jug off I was so proud of it. Piston rubbing. The farmertec top I used does no have that issue. The recoil broke twice trying to start it. Mostly oem parts, shredded them parts. Another bummer. Got it broke down. And ready in about 5-6 hours


Where is the piston rubbing? Is that red RTV?


----------



## William Prophett

Hey Bedford. Wanted to say Hi, and I enjoy your videos. I'm building a HMS660 and wondering is there a parts list for the kit somewhere? I asked Hutzl and they told me "no, watch videos"... Haha. I'm completely familiar with the build, but I think there should be a parts list for "newbys" to double check the kit when they get it. This kit that I just received didn't have any of the parts bags labeled like I've seen in some of the newer build videos. I can pull the OEM parts schematics and measure out bolts for any saw, but maybe some people can't. Had to grab a kit with both jugs at the Black Friday deal, but I see that they pulled a small "lets get rid of some of our older crap cause it's a deal" trick.... No labels, asymetric ports on the jugs, no pin in brake band, shitty brake tension spring with the hook on the side, brass inserts not in the top cover etc.... I'll update after I put it together later today.. I'm tossing on the 56 and hoping there isn't a freeport issue... Kinda sucks, but you reap what you sow I guess...


----------



## Bedford T

William Prophett said:


> Hey Bedford. Wanted to say Hi, and I enjoy your videos. I'm building a HMS660 and wondering is there a parts list for the kit somewhere? I asked Hutzl and they told me "no, watch videos"... Haha. I'm completely familiar with the build, but I think there should be a parts list for "newbys" to double check the kit when they get it. This kit that I just received didn't have any of the parts bags labeled like I've seen in some of the newer build videos. I can pull the OEM parts schematics and measure out bolts for any saw, but maybe some people can't. Had to grab a kit with both jugs at the Black Friday deal, but I see that they pulled a small "lets get rid of some of our older crap cause it's a deal" trick.... No labels, asymetric ports on the jugs, no pin in brake band, shitty brake tension spring with the hook on the side, brass inserts not in the top cover etc.... I'll update after I put it together later today.. I'm tossing on the 56 and hoping there isn't a freeport issue... Kinda sucks, but you reap what you sow I guess...


Stop dude. Make us a list. I will post it on my website. You can post it here. I kick myself Everytime for not making it the first time. I did make one for the 250. Better late than never. Lol

Thanks for kind words.


----------



## Bedford T

Would you make them send you a new brake band? The saw is too big not to have a pin in it. You are suppose to assemble it so the inserts are not a big deal. Glad there were there finally.

Get you at least three things from Stihl store
Oem piston pin
Oem piston bearing
Oem decomp

Brake band with pin if you don't have them send you one and the saw should live long.


----------



## William Prophett

Thanks bud. Found the inserts in a separate bag... I got a pressure pin and made the pin for the brake band. Kinda nice because its all miced out so it fits perfectly tight. Saw fired up 6th pull... I had a Husky decomp button, but it seems to be popping too easy... Yanked the cord out of my hands a couple times! I have a hypo 272xp with the jug decked and decomp plugged that doesn't come even CLOSE to this compression. I put Caber rings in it and OEM seals and gaskets... They missed a pass inside the PTO housing and left a tiny 1/16 wide by 1/16 ridge around the entire clutch drum that kept it from seating. Kinda sucked because I had everything greased up on that side and had to machine the ridge out... Made a freaking mess, but it worked out. I used the OEM pdf parts diagram to make sure the right bolts went in the right spots... Long day, but it's running nice. I'll run a tank through it tomorrow and give it a fat tune for now... I'll keep you updated.


----------



## Threewood

I purchased a FT 660 kit during their sale, $212 shipped. I just like building things and these kits are very cool to put together. Previously I had put together a 361 kit which I found to be pretty easy and clean. The cylinder in this 660 kit had rough ports, no where near as clean as what I have seen posted here so they did require a clean up. In both my kits the chain brake spring is flat out wrong so I ordered an oem spring before hand. And the notch in the brake drum needed to be cut deeper as it was causing an issue pushing the oiler arm into the case. Also, I had terrible luck with the supplied spark plug. It would sputter and putt. So I swapped out the plug for an NGK (.020" gap) and it fired up without any other issues.

Most annoying issue was the choke lever did not work. With the air filter base bolted in there was considerable play in the choke lever shaft and it did not make contact with the trigger so it would not hold the trigger when full or half choke was selected. I ended up heating and stretching the contact cam to make contact which worked out very well. Works as it should. I used all FT parts except what I replaced above, good compression, idles at 2900, set H at 13,000. It starts just fine and runs very well. I'm waiting on a bar before I get it into some wood. It is not going to be used a lot.

OEM on left, Huztl on right



Random extra parts received with the kit. I was missing 3 M5 nuts.


----------



## Bedford T

Threewood said:


> I purchased a FT 660 kit during their sale, $212 shipped. I just like building things and these kits are very cool to put together. Previously I had put together a 361 kit which I found to be pretty easy and clean. The cylinder in this 660 kit had rough ports, no where near as clean as what I have seen posted here so they did require a clean up. In both my kits the chain brake spring is flat out wrong so I ordered an oem spring before hand. And the notch in the brake drum needed to be cut deeper as it was causing an issue pushing the oiler arm into the case. Also, I had terrible luck with the supplied spark plug. It would sputter and putt. So I swapped out the plug for an NGK (.020" gap) and it fired up without any other issues.
> 
> Most annoying issue was the choke lever did not work. With the air filter base bolted in there was considerable play in the choke lever shaft and it did not make contact with the trigger so it would not hold the trigger when full or half choke was selected. I ended up heating and stretching the contact cam to make contact which worked out very well. Works as it should. I used all FT parts except what I replaced above, good compression, idles at 2900, set H at 13,000. It starts just fine and runs very well. I'm waiting on a bar before I get it into some wood. It is not going to be used a lot.
> 
> OEM on left, Huztl on right
> View attachment 617696
> 
> 
> Random extra parts received with the kit. I was missing 3 M5 nuts.
> View attachment 617698
> 
> 
> View attachment 617699


Man the brakes, they screw up across many models. Looks good. Thanks for sharing what you ran into. That's always helpful.


----------



## dswensen

Threewood said:


> I purchased a FT 660 kit during their sale, $212 shipped. I just like building things and these kits are very cool to put together. Previously I had put together a 361 kit which I found to be pretty easy and clean. The cylinder in this 660 kit had rough ports, no where near as clean as what I have seen posted here so they did require a clean up. In both my kits the chain brake spring is flat out wrong so I ordered an oem spring before hand. And the notch in the brake drum needed to be cut deeper as it was causing an issue pushing the oiler arm into the case. Also, I had terrible luck with the supplied spark plug. It would sputter and putt. So I swapped out the plug for an NGK (.020" gap) and it fired up without any other issues.
> 
> Most annoying issue was the choke lever did not work. With the air filter base bolted in there was considerable play in the choke lever shaft and it did not make contact with the trigger so it would not hold the trigger when full or half choke was selected. I ended up heating and stretching the contact cam to make contact which worked out very well. Works as it should. I used all FT parts except what I replaced above, good compression, idles at 2900, set H at 13,000. It starts just fine and runs very well. I'm waiting on a bar before I get it into some wood. It is not going to be used a lot.
> 
> OEM on left, Huztl on right
> View attachment 617696



Yep, I had the same chain brake spring issue months ago - had to order OEM separately too. I wish they'd fix this problem, many have had it. Loved the kits I built.


----------



## Bedford T

I had some time with this snow and was focused on hard start and quick to die troubleshooting and threewood's post reminded me that early on we had the same or similar issue with the shaft. I used one of my earlier fixes on the lobe. Then I tested the wiring to be sure it was good and it tested fine, but i noticed the spade was not tight on the coil connector. A few times it would start and kick off if you rolled it. That made me retest the saw and it was tight. so after those latest tweaks the saw starts fairly quick but when it warms up, two minutes, bam it cuts off and will not start. i ordered another coil. I remember my first build I had the exact same problem. Still have the tubing and it still fits perfectly. That is a walbro WJ-76-1 carb. The problems with the kits reoccur. I need to make a note of this.


----------



## Bedford T

I took the time to compile a MS660 parts packing list and put it on my website. You can cut and paste it into something and print it or whatever. I put it there so I can keep it current. We needed it a long time ago.


----------



## William Prophett

I think what I've seen here is a "purging" of old parts while the Black Friday sale was going on. Walts last video bragged about the parts upgrades to the kits... My kit seemed (not a conspiracy theorist here) to have received most of the older/common problem parts with my "sale/deal" kit. Thing is ripping though. Got a small tree job that I'm breaking in the saw on and it's paid for itself in 2 days... We will see...


----------



## Bedford T

William Prophett said:


> I think what I've seen here is a "purging" of old parts while the Black Friday sale was going on. Walts last video bragged about the parts upgrades to the kits... My kit seemed (not a conspiracy theorist here) to have received most of the older/common problem parts with my "sale/deal" kit. Thing is ripping though. Got a small tree job that I'm breaking in the saw on and it's paid for itself in 2 days... We will see...


Did you tell them?


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> Did you tell them?


Not in so many words Bedford. I did let them know that I had a few issues and they told me to watch videos... I will try to put together my thoughts and compose a proper email, but to be honest, I'm pretty pleased with the way the saw came out. Most of the fit was good. Cylinder didn't have any freeport issue with the gasket installed. Had all but two small nuts that I wouldn't have used anyway.... Even got the summer/winter baffle for inside the air cover.... Old brake spring with the hook on the side, it worked for now. Old/soft chain adjuster worm gears, ordered OEM. Pretty rough casting on the cylinder, but I don't have to look at it.... Seems to have a pile of compression, runs cool, starts right up and idles perfect... Extra long fuel line, have to shorten it in the tank... Ignition wires all fit fine... All trigger controls and detents are tight and work fine... Muffler fit perfect.... Plastics fit perfect and seem to be of real good quality... Bearings were placed perfect, I miced them all for clearance. All 1184 on the key gaskets... All extra loctite on the bolts. Nice clutch side cover and pull cord assembly. OEM decomp button coming with chain adjuster, but the Husky one is working better since I burned off the assembly oil. NGK plug of course and Caber rings... The Caber rings are a HUGE improvement over the kit rings... I put on the 56mm jug and have the kit supplied 54mm as a backup. Ordered an aftermarket gasket and seal kit and the cylinder gasket cleared the bigger short skirt piston better than the kit supplied one... I'm happy so far!


----------



## Brian Thacker

I ordered the 36" 3/8" bar/chain combo, along with a bunch of parts like intake and rubber parts and a gasket set. I received a 36" hard nose bar with a .404 chain. In the picture they show a roller tip bar with the 3/8" bar. I wrote them a email. 
I just received my order, order number HL20171121265033. I ordered Item number Z0023 36 Guide Bar & Saw Chain Combo 3/8 .063 For Stihl Chainsaw 090 070 088 084 076 075 051 050 MS880
I received item number Z0022 36‘’ Guide Bar & Saw Chain Combo .404 .063 104DL . I ordered a 3/8 that shows on the picture as a roller tip bar and I received a .404 Hard nose bar.

Thank You
Brian

Dear sir,
Thanks for your busines.
May I ask what the item number is on the bar and bag of chain.
And we will check it for you.

Best regards,
HUZTL TEAM

*Me 2017-12-05 16:58:08*
On the bag that the chain is in has number HFC070Y. On the bar it's self has a number of HF38639

*Me 2017-12-05 17:01:49*
The chain it's self has .404 written on it. I also used my Oregon measuring device to measure it and it is .404 chain.

*HUZTL TEAM 2017-12-06 03:53:18*
Dear sir,
Thanks for your reply.
May I ask what the model of saw you want to fit.

Best regards,
HUZTL TEAM

*Me 2017-12-06 22:17:13*
I was making adaptors to use it on my MS660. If not that I will use it on my McCulloch SP125C.

*HUZTL TEAM 2017-12-07 04:08:34*
Dear Sir,
Thanks for your quick reply.
Sorry to tell you that the Bar and Chain could not fit MS660, and our title has not show the model.

Confirming the specifications, models and pictures before buying parts is necessary. We often suggest our customers to do that.

Thanks for your understanding.
Regards,
Huztl

*Me 2017-12-07 23:36:23*
It will fit my McCulloch and with the right adaptors it will fit the 660. Stihl makes an adaptor spring that goes over the bar studs to size it down the bar studs on a 660. I usually just make them. I have a machine shop.

*Me 2017-12-07 23:38:45*
Either way I ordered a 3/8 setup and I was sent a .404.

*Me 2017-12-07 23:41:00*
Besides this my next purchase is going to be a 070 and a mill. This setup will work on it.

*HUZTL TEAM 2017-12-08 01:35:15*
Dear sir,
Thanks for your help and understanding.
We tested and knew this set chain and bar will fit the models in our title. So we did not emphasize the size. Sincerely hope you can understand.

Best regards,
HUZTL TEAM


What the hell is this? It is not up to them to tell me what I want. I ordered what it showed in the picture a roller tip bar with a 3/8" chain for a reason. I was going to use this on a mill and want the 3/8" cut instead of a .404 cut. I also cut some large wood and when I use it on the MS660 I want the smaller chain, it is easier for the saw to pull. I will also use a skip chain. I can make adaptors to adapt that blade to fit on the 660 and also to fit on the McCulloch SP125C. 

I now see that they have the bar & chain combo marked as sold out. That is the reason I did not receive the combo I ordered. I am unsure I will purchase anymore of their products if they are going to be that way. The MS660 is a good saw and I think they are working on trying to improve there product and that is the reason I have stayed with them. But they do not know what is on my mind when I order a product and what I am going to use it on or for. Ship me what I ordered not what you think I need. I have a masters in engineering and have been cutting wood all my life. I grew up with a wood stove in the house and my family also own a telephone company. I have cut right of way sense I was 8 or 9 years old. So again don't send me what you think I need, you don't know me or what I can do. I can mod almost any bar to fit almost any saw. My SP125C right now has a stihl big frame bar on it right now and works fine with the mods I done to it. It is not hard to do. It will with very little moding fit the 660.





 That is a roller tip!!! And it is not the large frame mount.


*Specifications*
*Product Name* 36 Guide Bar & Saw Chain Combo 3/8 .063 For Stihl Chainsaw 090 070 088 084 076 075 051 050 MS880
*Item NO* Z0023
*Weight* 4.1300 Kg
*Category* Tools & Accessories > Chainsaw Chains
*Brand* Holzfforma

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> I ordered the 36" 3/8" bar/chain combo, along with a bunch of parts like intake and rubber parts and a gasket set. I received a 36" hard nose bar with a .404 chain. In the picture they show a roller tip bar with the 3/8" bar. I wrote them a email.
> I just received my order, order number HL20171121265033. I ordered Item number Z0023 36 Guide Bar & Saw Chain Combo 3/8 .063 For Stihl Chainsaw 090 070 088 084 076 075 051 050 MS880
> I received item number Z0022 36‘’ Guide Bar & Saw Chain Combo .404 .063 104DL . I ordered a 3/8 that shows on the picture as a roller tip bar and I received a .404 Hard nose bar.
> 
> Thank You
> Brian
> 
> Dear sir,
> Thanks for your busines.
> May I ask what the item number is on the bar and bag of chain.
> And we will check it for you.
> 
> Best regards,
> HUZTL TEAM
> 
> *Me 2017-12-05 16:58:08*
> On the bag that the chain is in has number HFC070Y. On the bar it's self has a number of HF38639
> 
> *Me 2017-12-05 17:01:49*
> The chain it's self has .404 written on it. I also used my Oregon measuring device to measure it and it is .404 chain.
> 
> *HUZTL TEAM 2017-12-06 03:53:18*
> Dear sir,
> Thanks for your reply.
> May I ask what the model of saw you want to fit.
> 
> Best regards,
> HUZTL TEAM
> 
> *Me 2017-12-06 22:17:13*
> I was making adaptors to use it on my MS660. If not that I will use it on my McCulloch SP125C.
> 
> *HUZTL TEAM 2017-12-07 04:08:34*
> Dear Sir,
> Thanks for your quick reply.
> Sorry to tell you that the Bar and Chain could not fit MS660, and our title has not show the model.
> 
> Confirming the specifications, models and pictures before buying parts is necessary. We often suggest our customers to do that.
> 
> Thanks for your understanding.
> Regards,
> Huztl
> 
> *Me 2017-12-07 23:36:23*
> It will fit my McCulloch and with the right adaptors it will fit the 660. Stihl makes an adaptor spring that goes over the bar studs to size it down the bar studs on a 660. I usually just make them. I have a machine shop.
> 
> *Me 2017-12-07 23:38:45*
> Either way I ordered a 3/8 setup and I was sent a .404.
> 
> *Me 2017-12-07 23:41:00*
> Besides this my next purchase is going to be a 070 and a mill. This setup will work on it.
> 
> *HUZTL TEAM 2017-12-08 01:35:15*
> Dear sir,
> Thanks for your help and understanding.
> We tested and knew this set chain and bar will fit the models in our title. So we did not emphasize the size. Sincerely hope you can understand.
> 
> Best regards,
> HUZTL TEAM
> 
> 
> What the hell is this? It is not up to them to tell me what I want. I ordered what it showed in the picture a roller tip bar with a 3/8" chain for a reason. I was going to use this on a mill and want the 3/8" cut instead of a .404 cut. I also cut some large wood and when I use it on the MS660 I want the smaller chain, it is easier for the saw to pull. I will also use a skip chain. I can make adaptors to adapt that blade to fit on the 660 and also to fit on the McCulloch SP125C.
> 
> I now see that they have the bar & chain combo marked as sold out. That is the reason I did not receive the combo I ordered. I am unsure I will purchase anymore of their products if they are going to be that way. The MS660 is a good saw and I think they are working on trying to improve there product and that is the reason I have stayed with them. But they do not know what is on my mind when I order a product and what I am going to use it on or for. Ship me what I ordered not what you think I need. I have a masters in engineering and have been cutting wood all my life. I grew up with a wood stove in the house and my family also own a telephone company. I have cut right of way sense I was 8 or 9 years old. So again don't send me what you think I need, you don't know me or what I can do. I can mod almost any bar to fit almost any saw. My SP125C right now has a stihl big frame bar on it right now and works fine with the mods I done to it. It is not hard to do. It will with very little moding fit the 660.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a roller tip!!! And it is not the large frame mount.
> 
> 
> *Specifications*
> *Product Name* 36 Guide Bar & Saw Chain Combo 3/8 .063 For Stihl Chainsaw 090 070 088 084 076 075 051 050 MS880
> *Item NO* Z0023
> *Weight* 4.1300 Kg
> *Category* Tools & Accessories > Chainsaw Chains
> *Brand* Holzfforma
> 
> Brian


I reached out to you in a pm. I would encourage you to open a PayPal dispute. They can be idiots. We need to teach them a lesson to stop the tide. This will only get worse. Their logic is child like so punishment might be the answer. The Chinese government allows them to read the forums but not websites. So they can see this stuff. I would be pissed. Sorry this happened.


----------



## Hydro74

Brian Thacker said:


> I ordered the 36" 3/8" bar/chain combo, along with a bunch of parts like intake and rubber parts and a gasket set. I received a 36" hard nose bar with a .404 chain. In the picture they show a roller tip bar with the 3/8" bar. I wrote them a email.
> I just received my order, order number HL20171121265033. I ordered Item number Z0023 36 Guide Bar & Saw Chain Combo 3/8 .063 For Stihl Chainsaw 090 070 088 084 076 075 051 050 MS880
> I received item number Z0022 36‘’ Guide Bar & Saw Chain Combo .404 .063 104DL . I ordered a 3/8 that shows on the picture as a roller tip bar and I received a .404 Hard nose bar.
> 
> Thank You
> Brian
> 
> Dear sir,
> Thanks for your busines.
> May I ask what the item number is on the bar and bag of chain.
> And we will check it for you.
> 
> Best regards,
> HUZTL TEAM
> 
> *Me 2017-12-05 16:58:08*
> On the bag that the chain is in has number HFC070Y. On the bar it's self has a number of HF38639
> 
> *Me 2017-12-05 17:01:49*
> The chain it's self has .404 written on it. I also used my Oregon measuring device to measure it and it is .404 chain.
> 
> *HUZTL TEAM 2017-12-06 03:53:18*
> Dear sir,
> Thanks for your reply.
> May I ask what the model of saw you want to fit.
> 
> Best regards,
> HUZTL TEAM
> 
> *Me 2017-12-06 22:17:13*
> I was making adaptors to use it on my MS660. If not that I will use it on my McCulloch SP125C.
> 
> *HUZTL TEAM 2017-12-07 04:08:34*
> Dear Sir,
> Thanks for your quick reply.
> Sorry to tell you that the Bar and Chain could not fit MS660, and our title has not show the model.
> 
> Confirming the specifications, models and pictures before buying parts is necessary. We often suggest our customers to do that.
> 
> Thanks for your understanding.
> Regards,
> Huztl
> 
> *Me 2017-12-07 23:36:23*
> It will fit my McCulloch and with the right adaptors it will fit the 660. Stihl makes an adaptor spring that goes over the bar studs to size it down the bar studs on a 660. I usually just make them. I have a machine shop.
> 
> *Me 2017-12-07 23:38:45*
> Either way I ordered a 3/8 setup and I was sent a .404.
> 
> *Me 2017-12-07 23:41:00*
> Besides this my next purchase is going to be a 070 and a mill. This setup will work on it.
> 
> *HUZTL TEAM 2017-12-08 01:35:15*
> Dear sir,
> Thanks for your help and understanding.
> We tested and knew this set chain and bar will fit the models in our title. So we did not emphasize the size. Sincerely hope you can understand.
> 
> Best regards,
> HUZTL TEAM
> 
> 
> What the hell is this? It is not up to them to tell me what I want. I ordered what it showed in the picture a roller tip bar with a 3/8" chain for a reason. I was going to use this on a mill and want the 3/8" cut instead of a .404 cut. I also cut some large wood and when I use it on the MS660 I want the smaller chain, it is easier for the saw to pull. I will also use a skip chain. I can make adaptors to adapt that blade to fit on the 660 and also to fit on the McCulloch SP125C.
> 
> I now see that they have the bar & chain combo marked as sold out. That is the reason I did not receive the combo I ordered. I am unsure I will purchase anymore of their products if they are going to be that way. The MS660 is a good saw and I think they are working on trying to improve there product and that is the reason I have stayed with them. But they do not know what is on my mind when I order a product and what I am going to use it on or for. Ship me what I ordered not what you think I need. I have a masters in engineering and have been cutting wood all my life. I grew up with a wood stove in the house and my family also own a telephone company. I have cut right of way sense I was 8 or 9 years old. So again don't send me what you think I need, you don't know me or what I can do. I can mod almost any bar to fit almost any saw. My SP125C right now has a stihl big frame bar on it right now and works fine with the mods I done to it. It is not hard to do. It will with very little moding fit the 660.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a roller tip!!! And it is not the large frame mount.
> 
> 
> *Specifications*
> *Product Name* 36 Guide Bar & Saw Chain Combo 3/8 .063 For Stihl Chainsaw 090 070 088 084 076 075 051 050 MS880
> *Item NO* Z0023
> *Weight* 4.1300 Kg
> *Category* Tools & Accessories > Chainsaw Chains
> *Brand* Holzfforma
> 
> Brian



Exact same thing happened to me but I ordered 4 sets  its bs really I wish they'd get there head and a$$ wired together


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

Hydro74 said:


> Exact same thing happened to me but I ordered 4 sets  its bs really I wish they'd get there head and a$$ wired together Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Let me ask a question, this is killing me. I swear i do not mean this to be mean and honestly it's not directed at you but at this situation that keeps recurring.

But what did you do about it?

Did you tell paypal?

At some point you guys are going to have to stand up to them and make them do the right thing. the thing they agreed to. sending you what you sent them money for in advance and they are thumbing their nose at you.

Really, in business, in america, before last year, we had a spine. anytime someone sold you something that was not as described, we would speak up and the merchant would make it right. not now, for some reason, people get run over and all they do is whine. they don't say i am holding you to the deal. you guys try to bargin with them rather than hey dude you lied to me. fix this right now. do exactly what you said you would do. I hear from people often they screwed me and later i hear them say i am going to see what i can get out of them. you are reaping what you sow. Greed.

here is the real kicker. they have recently began admitting they made a mistake because there is zero consequences to them. when this happens to you and you do nothing you are being a pu*sy. they recently said our workers made a mistake and screwed you. how about we send you a babble for your trouble. this is unbelievable. they must be hordes of people getting screwed and they are ashamed and not doing diddly squat to help themselves or the next buyer, that the really bad part, you are setting the next guy up to fail.. because if a bunch of people held their feet to the fire with paypal this would stop really fast because it would show a pattern and paypal would stop the flow of money. the chinese are scaring me. i will not longer waste my time reaching out to them because they have learned from thier customers they will willingly take it right up the old wazoo and not do diddly except keep coming back and buying. they don't bother training their workers because their workers are simply scapegoats.

its hard to believe they would write their customer and say our workers messed up sorry charlie and you guys just roll over. dang. do you think they will get mad at you? and not sell you cheap things any more? dang. this is scary.


----------



## KiwiBro

They haven't sent my winch either.


----------



## DrewXT

Thus far my experience with ordering parts from them has been positive.

All the parts I ordered arrived, albeit slowly - I regularly order car parts from the same province that get to me in under 48 hours, yet 8 chainsaw parts took 9 weeks.

I did have to modify a brake cover to fit, but for $6 AUD I wasn't complaining about 10 minutes with a file

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

I'm not trying to pile on here, cause I really like this saw... The pull start assembly destroyed itself today. Was really cold out (20 degrees) and I'm sure that didn't help. I left them two messages on my "account" site referencing the order number. Is this the right way to do it, or is there another place to send a warranty claim?


----------



## William Prophett

Broke apart while it was running. And, running well...


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> Let me ask a question, this is killing me. I swear i do not mean this to be mean and honestly it's not directed at you but at this situation that keeps recurring.
> 
> But what did you do about it?
> 
> Did you tell paypal?
> 
> At some point you guys are going to have to stand up to them and make them do the right thing. the thing they agreed to. sending you what you sent them money for in advance and they are thumbing their nose at you.
> 
> Really, in business, in america, before last year, we had a spine. anytime someone sold you something that was not as described, we would speak up and the merchant would make it right. not now, for some reason, people get run over and all they do is whine. they don't say i am holding you to the deal. you guys try to bargin with them rather than hey dude you lied to me. fix this right now. do exactly what you said you would do. I hear from people often they screwed me and later i hear them say i am going to see what i can get out of them. you are reaping what you sow. Greed.
> 
> here is the real kicker. they have recently began admitting they made a mistake because there is zero consequences to them. when this happens to you and you do nothing you are being a pu*sy. they recently said our workers made a mistake and screwed you. how about we send you a babble for your trouble. this is unbelievable. they must be hordes of people getting screwed and they are ashamed and not doing diddly squat to help themselves or the next buyer, that the really bad part, you are setting the next guy up to fail.. because if a bunch of people held their feet to the fire with paypal this would stop really fast because it would show a pattern and paypal would stop the flow of money. the chinese are scaring me. i will not longer waste my time reaching out to them because they have learned from thier customers they will willingly take it right up the old wazoo and not do diddly except keep coming back and buying. they don't bother training their workers because their workers are simply scapegoats.
> 
> its hard to believe they would write their customer and say our workers messed up sorry charlie and you guys just roll over. dang. do you think they will get mad at you? and not sell you cheap things any more? dang. this is scary.


Bedford, I just wanted to let you know that Huztl reached out to me after my pull cord assembly came apart. They asked me to outline my entire build and the saws function. I wrote them a very detailed description of all modifications, missing parts, parts replaced with OEM and a review of the saws function and fit and finish. They apologized for the problem with the pull cord assembly and are replacing it (and I ordered one from HL Supply). I am waiting for the response to my detailed letter, but they seemed genuinely interested in my feedback. We will see, but I'm very happy with this saw so far.


----------



## TheTone

If these bearings are identical, it looks to me like someone installed one backward, with the closed side in rather than out. Those of you who have built a Huztl 066...did both your bearings have the open side in?


----------



## William Prophett

TheTone said:


> If these bearings are identical, it looks to me like someone installed one backward, with the closed side in rather than out. Those of you who have built a Huztl 066...did both your bearings have the open side in?
> 
> View attachment 619798
> View attachment 619799


The one on the pto side has to be open on the outside. The crank seal instals inside the bearing...


----------



## TheTone

William Prophett said:


> The one on the pto side has to be open on the outside. The crank seal instals inside the bearing...



Great! I see that now. Thanks!


----------



## William Prophett

TheTone said:


> Great! I see that now. Thanks!


No problem. Any questions you have, reach out.


----------



## TheTone

William Prophett said:


> The one on the pto side has to be open on the outside. The crank seal instals inside the bearing...



Do you know if the original Stihl bearings were open on both sides? It would seem that being (partially) closed on the inside would compromise the lubrication of the bearing.


----------



## William Prophett

TheTone said:


> Do you know if the original Stihl bearings were open on both sides? It would seem that being (partially) closed on the inside would compromise the lubrication of the bearing.


----------



## William Prophett

In the OEM Stihl ms660 parts schematic, it shows the bearings "sealed" on the inside.


----------



## William Prophett




----------



## tombukt2

Bedford T said:


> Here a west coast cover i got from huztl
> View attachment 601610
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wrap is an add on with a wrench holder
> 
> this KIT requires me to have what original stihl parts ? the oil pump is hi flow why ? more taper on adjustment screw and its bore . Who sells? im trying to get to total costs of this not including my labour? this is a 660 so its 90 cc what else do i need thats not talked about?


----------



## William Prophett

tombukt2 said:


> [/QUO
> This kit will operate "as is" if you have crank tools to pull the crank shaft through the pre-installed crank case bearings and seals safetly without inverting a seal. That being said, it's just safer for most folks to remove the pto side pre-installed seal and install a new one after the cases are assembled. So, it makes sense to purchase an aftermarket or OEM seal kit. Most of the other parts in question are "should replace" but not "must replace"... These parts include wrist pin, cir clips, wrist pin bearing, piston rings, decompression valve, chain adjuster... Also, as I did, I purchased the "big bore 56mm cylinder and piston assembly" for $16 shipped with the kit and it makes this saw 99cc and you have the 54mm cylinder assembly as a backup. After reading several hundred pages of information and watching hours of video on this build, I replaced the kit piston rings with Caber rings, replaced the kit decompression button with OEM Stihl, replaced the kit chain adjuster with OEM Stihl, used an aftermarket seal kit from HL Supply, assembled the crankcase and cylinder with gaskets and 1184 gasket sealer, and after having my pull start assembly fail in sub zero weather, purchased an aftermarket recoil assembly from HL Supply and Huztl also sent me a new one... Hope this all helps. Walt at Hill Top Saw Shop has assembled these saws and run them with "just" the parts in the kit... Have a successful build and reach out if I can help...


----------



## Brian Thacker

TheTone said:


> Do you know if the original Stihl bearings were open on both sides? It would seem that being (partially) closed on the inside would compromise the lubrication of the bearing.



That bearing being partially closed in will actually retain lubricant in the bearing and better lubricate the bearing. Have seen this on other 2-stroke engines. 

Brian


----------



## LumberingAlong

Got my MS 660 kit in the mail this past week. This is my first chainsaw build. I'm posting this to share my experience so far. I compared the contents of my kit with list posted by the1chainsawguy. I also cross-referenced with a parts diagram of the saw. Many of the bags were not labeled which made identifying them more difficult, especially the screws. 

Here are the broken/missing parts:
1pc - Brake band (no retaining pin) - OEM Part # 1122 160 5400
1pc - Throttle Rod Grommet (Broken)
1pc - Crankcase gasket (Broken) - OEM Part # 1122 029 0507 
1pc - Reflector Foil (Missing) - OEM Part # 1128 084 8302 
1pc - Rubber Cap (Missing) - OEM Part # 1121 084 7100 
10pcs - M5x20 Spline T27 Torx Screws (quantity 10 screws missing) - OEM Part # 9022 371 1020 
5pcs - Hexagon Lock nut M5 - OEM Part # 9214 320 0700
2pcs - Hexagon nut M5 - OEM Part # 9210 260 0700 

There was also not a cylinder plug in the kit (part #1122 025 2200). I'm assuming this is an optional part you have to buy if you want to pressure test the saw or run the saw without the decomp valve. I mention it here because it was included on the1chainsawguy's list. Anyone else get one in their kit? 

Initially, Jane at Huztl did not want to send me the replacement parts. For some they said "they are not come with these parts". For others they said "pls don't worry, the Saw can work normally without them". And for the rest, they said "The rest of parts, do you have original? If you have, hope you can assemble the MS660 Saw, to confirm other parts can work normally." Later she suggested that I try to use the broken gasket to see if it would work. They were totally brushing me off! 

I'm still in the process of getting them to replace the parts. They've agreed to send most of them after I mentioned contacting PayPal, but did not agree to send the brake band or heat shield. They may not have them. I’ve asked for a partial refund if they can't supply a complete set of parts. This will help me buy them from another supplier. I will open a case with PayPal if I don't receive the parts or get a resolution soon. 

They did update the picture of the brake band on their website to show that it does not have a retaining pin. This is a little progress. They should include a complete parts list for the kit on their site with links to their individual parts pages. I think this would help improve communication and people would be able to see exactly what they should receive in the kit.


----------



## LumberingAlong

I also forgot to mention that this muffler baffle was not included in my kit, but was on the part list provided by the1chainsawguy:
1pc Baffle 1122 121 6900

Did anyone else receive one in their MS 660 kit? And do I need it? On the parts diagram it looks like there are several different filter options. 

Thanks!
Joe


----------



## William Prophett

LumberingAlong said:


> I also forgot to mention that this muffler baffle was not included in my kit, but was on the part list provided by the1chainsawguy:
> 1pc Baffle 1122 121 6900
> 
> Did anyone else receive one in their MS 660 kit? And do I need it? On the parts diagram it looks like there are several different filter options.
> 
> Thanks!
> Joe


That air filter baffle is there so any backpressure through the carb doesn't soak the filter element. My kit came with a black filler element that fits inside the filter and does the same thing... Its like a black foam oval looking thing that fits inside the filter on the air horn side...


----------



## LumberingAlong

I tried to post a list of missing parts from my kit, but its awaiting moderator approval. How long does this take?


----------



## Threewood

Update on my 660 clone build...
The oiler either doesn't work or comes out of adjustment. I can spin it up and get oil to come out but at some point during my cuts it just stops working. Chain was dry as a bone. So I ordered a used Stihl oil pump and oiler as well as oil pressure relief valve.
And I had to replace the chain brake link and small spring (spring was stretched already and the link was sloppy locking the drum).
I deleted the decomp valve as I was tired of the cap popping off. I cut the stem with a hacksaw and peened it over to hold the valve in place.
Besides this the engine runs great. I deleted the steel gasket because the squish was around .037". Without the gasket it is .025"


----------



## davhul

On your oil pump I would look at the plastic worm gear also. The wire on mine would slip around then wouldn't pump. 
I would get a decomp plug coming. You don't want the possibility of the valve leaking.
Squish on all 3 of mine had.023-.025 with the huztl cylinder and no gasket.


----------



## Threewood

davhul said:


> On your oil pump I would look at the plastic worm gear also. The wire on mine would slip around then wouldn't pump.
> I would get a decomp plug coming. You don't want the possibility of the valve leaking.
> Squish on all 3 of mine had.023-.025 with the huztl cylinder and no gasket.



Non issue now. Received my Stihl pump, worm gear and pressure valve. Installed and oiling as it should. The saw started on 4 pulls so I am still impressed with the performance.


----------



## glock37

As long as the seal side on clutch bearing its out the other dont really matter which way


----------



## Marco

My P51 is getting long in the tooth, I bit and got one in from HL. Look's nice. I will most likely throw it together and make it run no problem. I traded having no luck with women to becoming X-Men Mechgizmo.


----------



## Marco

I like a burred cold chiesel between crank counter wieght when pushing cases.


----------



## William Prophett

Marco said:


> I like a burred cold chiesel between crank counter wieght when pushing cases.


6' breaker bar for me... With two dudes hanging off the end! If I snap the cases, JB weld and some silicone to seal her up...


----------



## Marco

The chiesel is to support the crank so extra stress is not placed on the crankpin. Pounding it together can brinell the the bearing races.


----------



## William Prophett

Marco said:


> The chiesel is to support the crank so extra stress is not placed on the crankpin. Pounding it together can brinell the the bearing races.


Anyone that pounds cases together should stay out of a shop.. And no, you don't need a cold chisel to support the crank when pressing cases on a 660.


Marco said:


> The chiesel is to support the crank so extra stress is not placed on the crankpin. Pounding it together can brinell the the bearing races.


If you were "pounding" them together, I guess I could see the extra support. However, if you are gonna "pound" together cases in a fashion that you would damage a crank or bearing race, you should only work on your "own" equipment. And for anyone thats teying to see if they can build one of these kits, pounding the cases together isn't the proper way to assemble the crankcases on an MS 660...


----------



## Marco

It runs well, I named it Oddjob.


----------



## Thefenceguy30

Bedford T said:


> Its been a year since we started building these kit and we have come along way and FarmerTec have made significant improvements. So newcomers don't have to wade though 160 pages. Lets start from scratch. I will put a link in both to the other so if there is something that need to be found, it will be.
> 
> I will kick it off with a build using the new improved MS660 kit. Pictures and build videos. It will fill up quick. The kit i just got is the best they have done yet and i will show you why. I can't start the cylinder until tuesday. But will be ready to go, then.
> 
> Here whats in the new kit. take a peak at the cylinder finish
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my farmertec 660 build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is step one of the build. I am going to keep the videos targeted in smaller run times
> Case Assembly Step 1


----------



## Bedford T

I been on holiday and just logged back in. That is a nice looking kit. You got the handle portion done also, so its complete. nice job. how did you do that?


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> I been on holiday and just logged back in. That is a nice looking kit. You got the handle portion done also, so its complete. nice job. how did you do that?


You can buy those carbon fiber looking covers on Ebay...


----------



## Bedford T

You sure can. But he has the orange portion on the handle too and he had to have done that.


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> You sure can. But he has the orange portion on the handle too and he had to have done that.


Oooo. I didn't see that... Let me go look.


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> You sure can. But he has the orange portion on the handle too and he had to have done that.


I don't see any orange? Mayne I'm looking at a different picture.


----------



## Bedford T

When you buy the carbon shroud and filter cover and strap them on there is a large triangle of orange that is not covered. The kit builders had his covered and that's what I meant


----------



## Thefenceguy30

Yeah it runs great I'm very pleased with the kit 



Bedford T said:


> You sure can. But he has the orange portion on the handle too and he had to have done that.


The only ornage on the farmertec saw is the stihl sticker on the guard for the underside


----------



## Bedford T

Thefenceguy30 said:


> Yeah it runs great I'm very pleased with the kit View attachment 626481
> 
> 
> The only ornage on the farmertec saw is the stihl sticker on the guard for the underside


I forget that


----------



## William Prophett

Thefenceguy30 said:


> Yeah it runs great I'm very pleased with the kit View attachment 626481
> 
> 
> The only ornage on the farmertec saw is the stihl sticker on the guard for the underside


Nice. I have that exact same setup for my 36" GB mill. I even bought that Archer Pro 36.... Was gonna mill some today, but chores got me.


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> I forget that


How"s it oil????


----------



## Bedford T

Thefenceguy30 said:


> Yeah it runs great I'm very pleased with the kit View attachment 626481
> 
> 
> The only ornage on the farmertec saw is the stihl sticker on the guard for the underside


What are you using to make your first cut?


----------



## Bedford T

William Prophett said:


> How"s it oil????


Like most Stihl not enough, to me. I put a high output and that made me happy.


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> Like most Stihl not enough, to me. I put a high output and that made me happy.


I have 3 Husky's I mill with. I built this one to live on the mill, but I kinda like it. I've been doing tree jobs with it to break it in. I hate to kill it!!! When I'm milling, I use auxiliary oil anyway... I'll have to look for an HO pump. When I was cutting with a 25, I noticied it oiled a little light for my liking and it's turned all the way up... The Huskys oil plenty on the 36...


----------



## Bedford T

William Prophett said:


> I have 3 Husky's I mill with. I built this one to live on the mill, but I kinda like it. I've been doing tree jobs with it to break it in. I hate to kill it!!! When I'm milling, I use auxiliary oil anyway... I'll have to look for an HO pump. When I was cutting with a 25, I noticied it oiled a little light for my liking and it's turned all the way up... The Huskys oil plenty on the 36...


Search 1122 640 3201 on the bay. You should find one for about 15$. Buy two just in case. That what I did.


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> Search 1122 640 3201 on the bay. You should find one for about 15$. Buy two just in case. That what I did.


Thanks!


----------



## Thefenceguy30

Thefenceguy30 said:


> Yeah it runs great I'm very pleased with the kit View attachment 626481
> 
> 
> The only ornage on the farmertec saw is the stihl sticker on the guard for the underside





Bedford T said:


> I been on holiday and just logged back in. That is a nice looking kit. You got the handle portion done also, so its complete. nice job. how did you do that?


Thanks the kit only took two evenings to build the only issue I've had is the gas cap leaked so I replaced that


----------



## Thefenceguy30

Bedford T said:


> What are you using to make your first cut?


I use a treated 2×8


----------



## Thefenceguy30

Bedford T said:


> What are you using to make your first cut?


A treated 2x8


----------



## Thefenceguy30

William Prophett said:


> Nice. I have that exact same setup for my 36" GB mill. I even bought that Archer Pro 36.... Was gonna mill some today, but chores got me.


The biggest problem is the cheap hardware on the mill . Did you do a break in on your saw ? I didn't I put it in ran it wide open and its already been through several tanks of gas without any issues


----------



## Thefenceguy30

Bedford T said:


> When you buy the carbon shroud and filter cover and strap them on there is a large triangle of orange that is not covered. The kit builders had his covered and that's what I meant


The carburetor housing yeah I replaced to too


----------



## Thefenceguy30

William Prophett said:


> How"s it oil????


Seems to oil fine


----------



## Thefenceguy30

Bedford T said:


> I been on holiday and just logged back in. That is a nice looking kit. You got the handle portion done also, so its complete. nice job. how did you do that?


I purchased all the carbon dipped parts on ebay I made sure I could get everything to do the entire saw


----------



## Bedford T

Thefenceguy30 said:


> I purchased all the carbon dipped parts on ebay I made sure I could get everything to do the entire saw


I was just thinking. I need to look back at my photos from way back. At one time that piece was orange. Then I went who cares, it's not now.


----------



## William Prophett

Thefenceguy30 said:


> The biggest problem is the cheap hardware on the mill . Did you do a break in on your saw ? I didn't I put it in ran it wide open and its already been through several tanks of gas without any issues


Yeah, I've done a couple tree jobs with it and cut some firewood at home breaking it in. I haven't run it in the mill yet. I had to make up rip chain for the Archer/Stihl combo. My Carltons are 115 DL 3/8 .063... SonI had to take out a drive link. Worked out perfect because Inhad a brand new chain with a damaged tooth... So we will see. The 56mm seems to run great. I'll test out the durability of this thing, thats for sure.


----------



## William Prophett

Thefenceguy30 said:


> The biggest problem is the cheap hardware on the mill . Did you do a break in on your saw ? I didn't I put it in ran it wide open and its already been through several tanks of gas without any issues


What kind of mill do you have? The Huztl one? Mine is a GB and I'm really happy with the build quality.


----------



## Thefenceguy30

William Prophett said:


> What kind of mill do you have? The Huztl one? Mine is a GB and I'm really happy with the build quality.


 Mine is a gb in not sure if the hardware issue is because of cheap hardware or me assembling it the first time with my battery impact but I purchased a seperate hardware kit when I bought the mill and have been replacing hardware as it has stripped the hardware issue is probably because of me


----------



## MG porting

Hi there gents I have a question about the Farmertec ms660 I've have been building one for bucking big logs and I was wondering on what would be a safe rpm to set it at? Thank you


----------



## William Prophett

MG porting said:


> Hi there gents I have a question about the Farmertec ms660 I've have been building one for bucking big logs and I was wondering on what would be a safe rpm to set it at? Thank you


How much time do you have on the saw? Pretty tough to answer the question, but all I can do is tell you what I do... When I build or rebuild a saw, I run mine about 1000 rpm on the fat side until I'm comfortable that it's broken in. So, on the 660 I am running mine at 12,500 on the high side for now... I run all my saws 40:1... To be honest, since the 56mm will end up on the mill, I may not turn it up... It runs really strong at 12,500 and I'm not building race saws... I've done a couple tree jobs and cut a bunch of wood breaking it in with a 25" bar, and this thing is a really nice running saw. I can say that I really notice a big difference with the Caber rings over the FT... So, thats just me, but 2800 on the low side and 12,500 on the high.


----------



## MG porting

William Prophett said:


> How much time do you have on the saw? Pretty tough to answer the question, but all I can do is tell you what I do... When I build or rebuild a saw, I run mine about 1000 rpm on the fat side until I'm comfortable that it's broken in. So, on the 660 I am running mine at 12,500 on the high side for now... I run all my saws 40:1... To be honest, since the 56mm will end up on the mill, I may not turn it up... It runs really strong at 12,500 and I'm not building race saws... I've done a couple tree jobs and cut a bunch of wood breaking it in with a 25" bar, and this thing is a really nice running saw. I can say that I really notice a big difference with the Caber rings over the FT... So, thats just me, but 2800 on the low side and 12,500 on the high.


OK thank you for the responses I've got three tanks through it now I was running mine around 12,600 although it was running OK but seemed to be really fat at that rpm I bumped it up to 13,000 and it seems to be happy there but I was a little worried that that rpm might be a little to much I'm running the 54mm bore with the farmertec ring. What's your feelings on this? I really don't want to hert this saw but it doesn't seem to not like running at this rpm. & I to run my saw 40.1.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> OK thank you for the responses I've got three tanks through it now I was running mine around 12,600 although it was running OK but seemed to be really fat at that rpm I bumped it up to 13,000 and it seems to be happy there but I was a little worried that that rpm might be a little to much I'm running the 54mm bore with the farmertec ring. What's your feelings on this? I really don't want to hert this saw but it doesn't seem to not like running at this rpm. & I to run my saw 40.1.


100 rpm is nothing to worry about. Your ear is important. Fuel quality and air temperature have a huge effect. I never understood why a little fat was bad. It just means it's got more oil being circulated. On a new saw Watch the position of your filter in the tank. And remember for a fairly long time you need to keep that tank full as possible because of the kink in the hose. It relaxes after a while. So until then be careful on avoiding a lean condition


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> 100 rpm is nothing to worry about. Your ear is important. Fuel quality and air temperature have a huge effect. I never understood why a little fat was bad. It just means it's got more oil being circulated. On a new saw Watch the position of your filter in the tank. And remember for a fairly long time you need to keep that tank full as possible because of the kink in the hose. It relaxes after a while. So until then be careful on avoiding a lean condition


OK thanks for the input and Yea I thought that the hose was a little funky. Lol.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> 100 rpm is nothing to worry about. Your ear is important. Fuel quality and air temperature have a huge effect. I never understood why a little fat was bad. It just means it's got more oil being circulated. On a new saw Watch the position of your filter in the tank. And remember for a fairly long time you need to keep that tank full as possible because of the kink in the hose. It relaxes after a while. So until then be careful on avoiding a lean condition


And I noticed you were talking about the bar oiler and I was wondering if you ever tried modding the farmertec one because I noticed that mine was on the light side to.


----------



## William Prophett

So, here is "saw school" on running "fat"... A lean saw runs really clean, but doesn't lube as much... A rich saw rins really dirty, but lubes better... Somewhere in the middle is a saw that runs kinda clean and lubes just right (sounds like goldy lochs and the three bears)... So, running a saw fat is giving it max lube, but its running dirty. Running too fat can lead to carbon buildup and "could" damage a cylinder... What I do is to run a small amount of Seafoam in my mix while I'm running on the rich side, so it has some cleaning aspects as well as the extra lubrication. Now, 12,500 isn't running really dirty... 10,500 would be really dirty... I do notice at 12,500 and 40:1 that it will puff a little after idling for a while when you rev it up... But, 12,500 is very "torquey" for milling... I'm not cutting cookies, so I'd rather have the low end torque and the extra oil... Remember, when you are cutting firewood or bucking trees, you're in the throttle for 15-30 seconds at a time. A tank can buck an entire tree. When milling, I run an entire tank of fuel on one 11' long by 24" wide slab... You could be in the throttle for 8-10 minutes in some cases (minus a couple small breaks for wedges and fatigue)... I might run 10 tanks of gas through a saw in one day milling... Thats a year of firewood cutting for most people...


----------



## MG porting

William Prophett said:


> So, here is "saw school" on running "fat"... A lean saw runs really clean, but doesn't lube as much... A rich saw rins really dirty, but lubes better... Somewhere in the middle is a saw that runs kinda clean and lubes just right (sounds like goldy lochs and the three bears)... So, running a saw fat is giving it max lube, but its running dirty. Running too fat can lead to carbon buildup and "could" damage a cylinder... What I do is to run a small amount of Seafoam in my mix while I'm running on the rich side, so it has some cleaning aspects as well as the extra lubrication. Now, 12,500 isn't running really dirty... 10,500 would be really dirty... I do notice at 12,500 and 40:1 that it will puff a little after idling for a while when you rev it up... But, 12,500 is very "torquey" for milling... I'm not cutting cookies, so I'd rather have the low end torque and the extra oil... Remember, when you are cutting firewood or bucking trees, you're in the throttle for 15-30 seconds at a time. A tank can buck an entire tree. When milling, I run an entire tank of fuel on one 11' long by 24" wide slab... You could be in the throttle for 8-10 minutes in some cases (minus a couple small breaks for wedges and fatigue)... I might run 10 tanks of gas through a saw in one day milling... Thats a year of firewood cutting for most people...


Yep I see your point you would definitely be running yours a lot harder than I would on mine. Thanks for the quick response


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> And I noticed you were talking about the bar oiler and I was wondering if you ever tried modding the farmertec one because I noticed that mine was on the light side to.


No, but you could. The 15$ I spent you could not buy the parts to upgrade the farmertec, some did it in the early kit days, no problems. The case and gears are copies. It oils just like one made by Stihl, which in not enough in my opinion, I like my chain damp. Put a 20" and the sthil would have a damp chain, move up to 36" and not so much. I first noticed it on the 029. On a 16" bar it barely did it's job and you could see the effects on the bar. I guess it was use only enough to not impact the environment? I hated to see the Stihl bar degrade so I have paid attention. No other option on a 440. But the 660 ho works great on a 28 mine currently wears.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> No, but you could. The 15$ I spent you could not buy the parts to upgrade the farmertec, some did it in the early kit days, no problems. The case and gears are copies. It oils just like one made by Stihl, which in not enough in my opinion, I like my chain damp. Put a 20" and the sthil would have a damp chain, move up to 36" and not so much. I first noticed it on the 029. On a 16" bar it barely did it's job and you could see the effects on the bar. I guess it was use only enough to not impact the environment? I hated to see the Stihl bar degrade so I have paid attention. No other option on a 440. But the 660 ho works great on a 28 mine currently wears.


I guess I'll be getting a better one then. Lol but it would definitely be cheaper than replacing a bar that's for sure.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> I guess I'll be getting a better one then. Lol but it would definitely be cheaper than replacing a bar that's for sure.


Chain loses too, harder on engine, sharp lathered chain makes the whole saw last longer.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Chain loses too, harder on engine, sharp lathered chain makes the whole saw last longer.


Yes sir it sure does.


----------



## William Prophett

And ya know what is wierd about the "oiler", it seems to be "using" the right amount of oil per tank. But, it sure doesn't seem to be flying around the chain... Weird... I keep an antique brass push buttom oil can with me when I'm milling (mostly because I think its cool and secondly because my bar and chain costs more than this saw) and give the bar a couple squirts everytime I stop for a second.


----------



## MG porting

William Prophett said:


> And ya know what is wierd about the "oiler", it seems to be "using" the right amount of oil per tank. But, it sure doesn't seem to be flying around the chain... Weird... I keep an antique brass push buttom oil can with me when I'm milling (mostly because I think its cool and secondly because my bar and chain costs more than this saw) and give the bar a couple squirts everytime I stop for a second.


Hmmmm now you got me thinking about how how the bar is lining up with the oiler hole could look in to that.


----------



## Bedford T

William Prophett said:


> And ya know what is wierd about the "oiler", it seems to be "using" the right amount of oil per tank. But, it sure doesn't seem to be flying around the chain... Weird... I keep an antique brass push buttom oil can with me when I'm milling (mostly because I think its cool and secondly because my bar and chain costs more than this saw) and give the bar a couple squirts everytime I stop for a second.


The type wood your in effects the oil distribution too


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> The type wood your in effects the oil distribution too


Lot's of pine and maple here.


----------



## William Prophett

MG porting said:


> Lot's of pine and maple here.


Yeah, I'm an East Coast guy. Lots of big hardwood, but I'm a woodworker and timber framer, so I mill everything. I'm building a barn, so I'm milling beams and lumber out of spf. I'm also clearing some lots of Norway Maple and milling that for woodworking. I also just milled a monster black oak and white oak for a customer. So I get a pretty good cross secrion.


----------



## MG porting

William Prophett said:


> Yeah, I'm an East Coast guy. Lots of big hardwood, but I'm a woodworker and timber framer, so I mill everything. I'm building a barn, so I'm milling beams and lumber out of spf. I'm also clearing some lots of Norway Maple and milling that for woodworking. I also just milled a monster black oak and white oak for a customer. So I get a pretty good cross secrion.


The black oak is hard stuff to cut I'm sure that takes a bit of time to mill.


----------



## William Prophett

MG porting said:


> The black oak is hard stuff to cut I'm sure that takes a bit of time to mill.


Heres the funny part. I torched my main mill saw the week I got the job. I pulled out one of my 25 year old, original stock jug Husky 268xp's, tossed on the Oregon 36" power match with rip chain and milled three 3000 pound logs. The saw ran great. Since that day, I've never put my ported and decked mill saw back on the mill. I've been running the 268 since. I built the 660 to take it's place, but I may just run the Husky till it dies. These green oak logs were 30" in the middle and a stock 268xp ripped right through them... So much for "needing" an 880 size saw ti mill...


----------



## MG porting

William Prophett said:


> Heres the funny part. I torched my main mill saw the week I got the job. I pulled out one of my 25 year old, original stock jug Husky 268xp's, tossed on the Oregon 36" power match with rip chain and milled three 3000 pound logs. The saw ran great. Since that day, I've never put my ported and decked mill saw back on the mill. I've been running the 268 since. I built the 660 to take it's place, but I may just run the Husky till it dies. These green oak logs were 30" in the middle and a stock 268xp ripped right through them... So much for "needing" an 880 size saw ti mill...


That's funny!!


----------



## William Prophett

MG porting said:


> That's funny!!


Wouldn't believe it if anyone else told me. I swear on my mothers eyes...


----------



## MG porting

William Prophett said:


> Wouldn't believe it if anyone else told me. I swear on my mothers eyes...


Well although I won't be milling with mine but it will be cutting fire would and bucking I will be tuning on it tomorrow to make sure she's happy where it's at.


----------



## William Prophett

MG porting said:


> Well although I won't be milling with mine but it will be cutting fire would and bucking I will be tuning on it tomorrow to make sure she's happy where it's at.


Nice... Good luck!


----------



## MG porting

William Prophett said:


> Nice... Good luck!


I'll let you guys know how it goes tomorrow and have a good night.


----------



## MG porting

OK here's what my plug looks like.


----------



## Bedford T

Not enough light for us to see the color. Looks clean


----------



## MG porting

That's after setting the carb and now it running at 12,860 full throttle.


----------



## Bedford T

Run it like that for a while and revisit later. You should be good


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Not enough light for us to see the color. Looks clean


Yea sorry about the lighting. The color is not quite brown but not quite black it somewhere in the middle.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Run it like that for a while and revisit later. You should be good


OK will do thank you for the help.


----------



## William Prophett

MG porting said:


> Yea sorry about the lighting. The color is not quite brown but not quite black it somewhere in the middle.


Thats perfect..


----------



## MG porting

William Prophett said:


> Thats perfect..


That's what I like to hear!!


----------



## William Prophett

MG porting said:


> That's what I like to hear!!


We are still learning what these cylinders, rods, pistons, bearings, clutches and seals can handle. I wouldn't push it... Who needs more than 92 or 99 cc's pushing 12,900?


----------



## MG porting

William Prophett said:


> We are still learning what these cylinders, rods, pistons, bearings, clutches and seals can handle. I wouldn't push it... Who needs more than 92 or 99 cc's pushing 12,900?


Yea that's true but I hope it turns out to be a saw it seems like it is right now and the funny thing is that it has very little vibration its pretty smooth.


----------



## William Prophett

MG porting said:


> Yea that's true but I hope it turns out to be a saw it seems like it is right now and the funny thing is that it has very little vibration its pretty smooth.


I'm in love with it. I've been restoring old pro level saws for so long that I almost forgot what it's like to have a new one. Since I still have the 54mm jug and piston and an extra pull start and a slew of other stuff, I'm really considering building another one... I really like this 56mm build right now.


----------



## MG porting

William Prophett said:


> I'm in love with it. I've been restoring old pro level saws for so long that I almost forgot what it's like to have a new one. Since I still have the 54mm jug and piston and an extra pull start and a slew of other stuff, I'm really considering building another one... I really like this 56mm build right now.


Have you tried one with the 54mm?? And if so how much of a difference did you see and feel between the two?


----------



## Bedford T

William Prophett said:


> I'm in love with it. I've been restoring old pro level saws for so long that I almost forgot what it's like to have a new one. Since I still have the 54mm jug and piston and an extra pull start and a slew of other stuff, I'm really considering building another one... I really like this 56mm build right now.


I think it's fun to build and use. You can run into problems. You gotta pay real close attention. I bought a cross cylinder wanting the coating. The geometry was off and unless you sat with your build and listened to the rise and fall of the piston in the cylinder your saw would fail in about 3 tanks. I caught mine others not so lucky. But the point is you gotta pay close attention to the smallest detail. It's up to you to make it right even when you are handed a bad part.

And it's clean


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I think it's fun to build and use. You can run into problems. You gotta pay real close attention. I bought a cross cylinder wanting the coating. The geometry was off and unless you sat with your build and listened to the rise and fall of the piston in the cylinder your saw would fail in about 3 tanks. I caught mine others not so lucky. But the point is you gotta pay close attention to the smallest detail. It's up to you to make it right even when you are handed a bad part.
> 
> And it's clean


I was ariginly going to put a big bore on mine but herd that they had a lot of problems that's why I thought I'd ask first I'd be purity upset if I put a big bore cilinder on mine and had it blow up on me aspeshily when I can't really afford to go and buy another one. Lol


----------



## MG porting

Sorry for the spelling.


----------



## Bedford T

The farmertec 56 at one time had a free port issue. I think that got solved recently. Read around on the subject. Mine is 54. Plenty saw for me


----------



## William Prophett

MG porting said:


> Have you tried one with the 54mm?? And if so how much of a difference did you see and feel between the two?


I haven't run the 54... It's still in the box... I've seen both cylinders tested for timed cuts and understand that there is a difference. The biggest problem with the 56 is that the piston doesn't fit down inside the cases, so they shortened the skirt... By doing that they took away our ability to lower the jug and mess with the squish numbers because the cylinder will have free port if you do... You can do a lot more to the 54... However, there is no replacement for displacement... Why port and deck the 54 to just get the performance of the 56? My 56mm jug and piston was $16 extra dollars when I added it to the kit...


----------



## Bedford T

Spelling is never a sure thing g with autocorrect and with small keyboards


----------



## MG porting

William Prophett said:


> I haven't run the 54... It's still in the box... I've seen both cylinders tested for timed cuts and understand that there is a difference. The biggest problem with the 56 is that the piston doesn't fit down inside the cases, so they shortened the skirt... By doing that they took away our ability to lower the jug and mess with the squish numbers because the cylinder will have free port if you do... You can do a lot more to the 54... However, there is no replacement for displacement... Why port and deck the 54 to just get the performance of the 56? My 56mm jug and piston was $16 extra dollars when I added it to the kit...


so yours didn't have any free port issues? I'm glad they fixed that problem.


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> The farmertec 56 at one time had a free port issue. I think that got solved recently. Read around on the subject. Mine is 54. Plenty saw for me


It's still right on the edge. I couldn't delete the gasket or deck the cylinder on the 56... I never even measured the squish because I couldn't do anything about it... My skirt was right at the bottom of the exhaust port with the gasket in... Now, this thing has the compression of a nuclear sub at 5000 feet... So I'm not really concerned.


----------



## William Prophett

MG porting said:


> so yours didn't have any free port issues? I'm glad they fixed that problem.


It would have if I deleted the gasket.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Spelling is never a sure thing g with autocorrect and with small keyboards


Lol. Sounds good but my spelling is really bad to start with. Lol


----------



## MG porting

William Prophett said:


> It's still right on the edge. I couldn't delete the gasket or deck the cylinder on the 56... I never even measured the squish because I couldn't do anything about it... My skirt was right at the bottom of the exhaust port with the gasket in... Now, this thing has the compression of a nuclear sub at 5000 feet... So I'm not really concerned.


Well if I get bored with it someday I might try a 56mm. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

I think if you want a good 56 to carve on you might get a hyway. But they are a lot more than 16$


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I think if you want a good 56 to carve on you might get a hyway. But they are a lot more than 16$


Yea I've been looking at prices and yep they don't give them away that's for sure. They are a good brand.


----------



## Marco

Happy with the way mine runs so far, I got the kit from HL on a end of year sale. Used Oem clips, rod bearing, chain brake spring, HyWay decomp, Caber rings and some bar studs I pulled from a 031 pile. I am going to get a better fuel cap. It could oil better. I am most likely going to get a 24" bar for it


----------



## William Prophett

I am going to try an O-ring on the cap firts. I've been switching between the two gaskets they sent me. The problem isn't the cap, its that the cheap gaskets swell when they get gas on them... I'll post after I try it.... I got a 36" Archer Pro for the mill and picked up a Forester Palunum 25" that comes with a full chisel skip chain... I like the bar, but the chain they sent isn't the greatest so I grabbed an Oregon LGX full comp and it tears.... Good luck with it!


----------



## William Prophett

Marco said:


> Happy with the way mine runs so far, I got the kit from HL on a end of year sale. Used Oem clips, rod bearing, chain brake spring, HyWay decomp, Caber rings and some bar studs I pulled from a 031 pile. I am going to get a better fuel cap. It could oil better. I am most likely going to get a 24" bar for itView attachment 626979
> View attachment 626978


Oh, and Bedford linked the part number for an aftermarket HO pump. I ordered one $15... I'll keep you updated.


----------



## Bedford T

William Prophett said:


> Oh, and Bedford linked the part number for an aftermarket HO pump. I ordered one $15... I'll keep you updated.


That was a Stihl number. I knew that were using it as a replacement. Do share.


----------



## MG porting

Marco said:


> Happy with the way mine runs so far, I got the kit from HL on a end of year sale. Used Oem clips, rod bearing, chain brake spring, HyWay decomp, Caber rings and some bar studs I pulled from a 031 pile. I am going to get a better fuel cap. It could oil better. I am most likely going to get a 24" bar for itView attachment 626979
> View attachment 626978


Looks good I also had to use oem oil and fuel caps but I did manage to figure out why the farmertec one leeks I have them as spares now.


----------



## MG porting

William Prophett said:


> Oh, and Bedford linked the part number for an aftermarket HO pump. I ordered one $15... I'll keep you updated.


I have tried to find a $15.00 pump with no luck all I could find was the really expensive one's cold you steer me in the right direction?


----------



## Bedford T

First one that popped up
112576853677


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> First one that popped up
> 112576853677


Is that a factory ho pump or aftermarket? I have found a few aftermarket markets pumps but they don't state if there ho pumps. And thanks you guys are a big help.


----------



## Bedford T

The part# tells you it's a ho. That is an aftermarket pump. If you want oem you will pay more


----------



## Bedford T

Ho 1122 640 3201. 1.15mm stroke
Regular 1122 640 3205. 0.9mm stroke


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> The part# tells you it's a ho. That is an aftermarket pump. If you want oem you will pay more


OK cool!! And nope oem pump is way out of my price range. Lol.


----------



## MG porting

And I have a update on my saw I put my tack on it yesterday and I noticed that something was not right so I took the tack off it and put it on my other saw and yep I figured my tack is acting up so I need to get a new tack now. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

Get your Stihl dealer to get you a edt9. Likely 80-


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Get your Stihl dealer to get you a edt9. Likely 80-


OK will do I've herd good about those.


----------



## Marco

O-ring on fuel cap seems to get caught up in the threads and cause a high spot, and it leaks.


----------



## MG porting

Marco said:


> O-ring on fuel cap seems to get caught up in the threads and cause a high spot, and it leaks.


I managed to get both pieces apart on the oil cap and then took the black outer ring and sanded it down so it would allow the center to seal tightly on the rubber seal. The gas cap is next it's a little bit tougher to get apart.


----------



## Brian Thacker

I replaced mine with "O" rings and have never had a problem sense.

Brian


----------



## MG porting

Brian Thacker said:


> I replaced mine with "O" rings and have never had a problem sense.
> 
> Brian


Ha never did think of using o rings good idea. Lol


----------



## MG porting

Have a question for you Bedford T I'm wanting to change the high speed jet on my carb and I'm not sure what one I have in mine there's no number on the jet do you have an idea of what farmertec is using?? I went to my local Stihl dealer and the only jet they can get me is a. .66


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Have a question for you Bedford T I'm wanting to change the high speed jet on my carb and I'm not sure what one I have in mine there's no number on the jet do you have an idea of what farmertec is using?? I went to my local Stihl dealer and the only jet they can get me is a. .66


Not sure what carb you have. But generally FarmerTec is cloning, making an excat copy of the carbs used in Stihl saws so your jets not big enough in my opinion. Give me an hour and check my website under kit facts. It was there. I must have entered it and then forgot to save. I will fix it. Look under kit facts in an hour
http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Not sure what carb you have. But generally FarmerTec is cloning, making an excat copy of the carbs used in Stihl saws so your jets not big enough in my opinion. I have a whole section on this subject on my website. I even have part #s and resources.
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com


I have the farmertec clone carb that came with the saw it has the replaceable jet here's a picture 
and yes I think it's to small I have the high speed adjustment set right at 1 & 3/4 out from bottom although it runs great but would like it to be more closer to one turn out. And thanks for the info I'll be checking your site out this evening.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> I have the farmertec clone carb that came with the saw it has the replaceable jet here's a picture View attachment 627480
> and yes I think it's to small I have the high speed adjustment set right at 1 & 3/4 out from bottom although it runs great but would like it to be more closer to one turn out. And thanks for the info I'll be checking your site out this evening.


They go back and forth. Not long ago the carb they we're supplying did not have the replaceable jet and I made a fuss. So glad we are back there. Then just go eBay 222039380149. If you have never changed a jet out it will be soft. Select your best flat blade driver. Don't get them mixed up on table. Have fun. Gonna love your new saw.


----------



## Bedford T

I just got this to go with my larger saws. It's pretty.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> They go back and forth. Not long ago the carb they we're supplying did not have the replaceable jet and I made a fuss. So glad we are back there. Then just go eBay 222039380149. If you have never changed a jet out it will be soft. Select your best flat blade driver. Don't get them mixed up on table. Have fun. Gonna love your new saw.


Thanks and will do!


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I just got this to go with my larger saws. It's pretty.


Very cool!!


----------



## Marco

The mount is there, get a coil and a flywheel for heated bars and you could use it to trip NOS.


----------



## Marco

I'm trying to put something together to replace a little used P51 Pioneer that's made of Studebakerium.


----------



## Brian Thacker

What is everyone the farmertec bars. The are very soft in my opinion. About 2 chains and they are done.

Brian


----------



## MG porting

Brian Thacker said:


> What is everyone the farmertec bars. The are very soft in my opinion. About 2 chains and they are done.
> 
> Brian


Never tried one the saw is great so why not put a good bar on it but just like the saw I'm sure they will make improvements on there bars to.


----------



## Brian Thacker

This is the second one I have had. I thought the first one was a fluke or that I might have gotten a rock or something in it. The second one was worse than the first. The rails are very soft. I am ordering another bar today. Not sure what brand I am going to purchase. Some nice Stihl bars out there along with a few others. I am leaning toward the Stihl right now.

Brian


----------



## MG porting

Brian Thacker said:


> This is the second one I have had. I thought the first one was a fluke or that I might have gotten a rock or something in it. The second one was worse than the first. The rails are very soft. I am ordering another bar today. Not sure what brand I am going to purchase. Some nice Stihl bars out there along with a few others. I am leaning toward the Stihl right now.
> 
> Brian


Stihl makes a great bar and if you are willing to spend the extra money get a sugahara bar.


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> What is everyone the farmertec bars. The are very soft in my opinion. About 2 chains and they are done.
> 
> Brian


I recall you having trouble right off the bat. I am getting ready to reorder chains. So that puts my bars at about two chain. The paint looks good I just made a post about the paint holding up good. Maybe the synthetic bar oil gets the credit. What oil are you using, just good oil or synthetic? Maybe others will speak up and we can see the trend. I think I have two Archer bars doing good too those have just had Archer chains on them until I place this order. The Stihl bars lose paint quick


----------



## Bedford T

Cannon is a really nice bar


----------



## Brian Thacker

Bedford T said:


> I recall you having trouble right off the bat. I am getting ready to reorder chains. So that puts my bars at about two chain. The paint looks good I just made a post about the paint holding up good. Maybe the synthetic bar oil gets the credit. What oil are you using, just good oil or synthetic? Maybe others will speak up and we can see the trend. I think I have two Archer bars doing good too those have just had Archer chains on them until I place this order. The Stihl bars lose paint quick



I use TSC oil. sometimes Stihl, sometimes Husky. I have an array of bars on my Huskys and McCullochs. The Huskys have factory bars, I don't know who builds there bars. On the MACs I have factory MAC bars plus Oregon, Stihl, Forster, Windsor, Carolton and Sugihara bars. I cut a lot of wood and using the TSC oil I have not had any trouble with any of those bars. I spin my own chain and buy what ever chain I feel is good at a good price. I have Archer chain (which is what was on it) Oregon, Stihl, Carolton. Have never had a bar get damaged like these bars. I was filing it tring to get it to where I could use it this weekend and the metal on the rails are just as soft as can be.

Brian


----------



## Bedford T

That sux. I was looking for a cause. You have a great cross selection. Soft is soft then.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Cannon is a really nice bar


I've never a cannon bar before but they seem to be the right place.


----------



## MG porting

Price not place. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

They actually have a service center in North Carolina. I am not sure Stihl would straighten a bar for you or repair rails etc. Cannon will and does. I feel fairly confident the service center would do any worthwhile brand too


----------



## gchamber

Good Afternoon all!

This is my first post here and am hoping to get some help on my build. I got the Huztl MS660 as a christmas gift to use in milling 2 big 48" diameter white oaks that I had taken down on my property in July. 

Got the saw together fitted with a big bore kit that I polished the ports and all that good stuff. Installed OEM wrist pin, circlips, manifold, impulse line, and gaskets. Replaced the spark plug and plugged the decomp. 

Took a minute to get it to pop the first time, had to mess with the gas tank vent, readjust the ignition coil, double check the plug gap, etc. but it runs great now. Will pop on full choke after 2-3 pulls and then move to run with 2-3 more pulls fires right up.

The problem came when I went to fill up the chain lube. Got a massive leak coming out of the oiler. Realized I hadn't put the little O ring in the top hole, so take the whole side apart to install and replace all as it should be. While the leak is significantly better, it still seeps a pretty good amount of oil out of the bottom hole. I cant seem to find any mention of an O ring or gasket that should go there, but I am surprised that it would rely on a compression seal between the oiler and the case without some sort of sealing surface. 

Any help would be appreciated! 

Any help would be appreciated!


----------



## Bedford T

There is a sealing ring that fits on the pump and pushes up against the oil hose. Make sure your hose is positioned correctly and the sealing ring is in place. Blow out the area to remove a lot of what escaped and it should slow way down.

Welcome


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> There is a sealing ring that fits on the pump and pushes up against the oil hose. Make sure your hose is positioned correctly and the sealing ring is in place. Blow out the area to remove a lot of what escaped and it should slow way down.
> 
> Welcome


Was there a o ring that goes on the bottom of the pump? The reason why I ask is I thought the pump just just pushed against the rubber line coming from the tank?


----------



## gchamber

Well now I feel silly. I now realize I didnt install the oil hose... Hope I can get it in there with the case together. 

Thanks for the quick response! If I can get this issue fixed up tonight, I'll be milling by the weekend!


----------



## Bedford T

You can. Just pull the hose in and position the numb. Assembling the saw the first time is a real feat. You would be odd not to miss a thing or two. There is a filter that goes on the end.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Was there a o ring that goes on the bottom of the pump? The reason why I ask is I thought the pump just just pushed against the rubber line coming from the tank?


That why I included a photo


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> Well now I feel silly. I now realize I didnt install the oil hose... Hope I can get it in there with the case together.
> 
> Thanks for the quick response! If I can get this issue fixed up tonight, I'll be milling by the weekend!


It will go right in just making sure that you put your filter on your oil filter on first and make sure you you get it aligned.


----------



## gchamber

I had forgotten that piece in your photo also, which is what I thought the issue was, so I put that in last night and it helped. But I found it really curious that there was no rubber seal on the lower hole like the one I had put on the top. Now that I know I didn't put the oil hose on, it all makes a lot more sense.


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> I had forgotten that piece in your photo also, which is what I thought the issue was, so I put that in last night and it helped. But I found it really curious that there was no rubber seal on the lower hole like the one I had put on the top. Now that I know I didn't put the oil hose on, it all makes a lot more sense.


Try braking in your saw in a little bit before you start milling with it just so if there are any bugs that might pop up and give everything to go through some heat cycles. That's just something I would do.


----------



## gchamber

I don't really have anything other than milling that needs doing. But I will try to find some other stuff to cut up to run it through some heat cycles. I have a good amount of short 4-6' logs that I am going to do first when I start milling to get the hang of it before jumping into the big stuff to also help with breaking in.


----------



## Bedford T

It's your saw. You putting that saw on it's side and running it down a log is pretty stressful. Cutting some rounds and letting it cool some then repeat a tank or two the farmertec will not give you any surprises. You can get the whole process done in an hour.

Put that fatty right on it's side and start milling you got a big chance of stuff going wrong. I have said it so many times I am tired of saying it. Use your eyes and ears as you go forward. I bet you pressure tested it so that's out of the realm.

Don't let your gas tank go below half while milling


----------



## MG porting




----------



## gchamber

Just checked out your website Bedford T, read a lot of good information there. I will be sure to do as you recommend as far as running some tanks through it before milling. Unfortunately, I hadn't done a proper pressure test while assembling the saw, as I just didn't have the tool necessary to do so. But I did block off the intake, impulse and exhaust and applied pressure to the crank and the cylinder held the pressure nicely. That was the best I could do without buying the leak down tester. So if I do have a leak, it is likely a small one but I am fairly confident that I do not. The saw idles nice, no fluttering. Ill be putting my tach on it when I repair the oil tube tonight to make sure my RPMs are as consistent as my ears say they are


----------



## Bedford T

gchamber said:


> Just checked out your website Bedford T, read a lot of good information there. I will be sure to do as you recommend as far as running some tanks through it before milling. Unfortunately, I hadn't done a proper pressure test while assembling the saw, as I just didn't have the tool necessary to do so. But I did block off the intake, impulse and exhaust and applied pressure to the crank and the cylinder held the pressure nicely. That was the best I could do without buying the leak down tester. So if I do have a leak, it is likely a small one but I am fairly confident that I do not. The saw idles nice, no fluttering. Ill be putting my tach on it when I repair the oil tube tonight to make sure my RPMs are as consistent as my ears say they are


Next time you start your saw squirt something flammable along the base of the cylinder and if the idle changes you have a leak. Not perfect. I bet 30% or more maybe 40% chance you have a leak between cylinder and case. It happens that often.. let us know how it all turns out. Hope you have as much fun as most of us do


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> Just checked out your website Bedford T, read a lot of good information there. I will be sure to do as you recommend as far as running some tanks through it before milling. Unfortunately, I hadn't done a proper pressure test while assembling the saw, as I just didn't have the tool necessary to do so. But I did block off the intake, impulse and exhaust and applied pressure to the crank and the cylinder held the pressure nicely. That was the best I could do without buying the leak down tester. So if I do have a leak, it is likely a small one but I am fairly confident that I do not. The saw idles nice, no fluttering. Ill be putting my tach on it when I repair the oil tube tonight to make sure my RPMs are as consistent as my ears say they are


Ass you are going to be using your saw for milling try to keep your rpm below 13,000 a safe rpm should be around 12,500 if I'm wrong someone else can give you a number.


----------



## gchamber

well I got to put the oil tube in last night, and wouldn't you know it, my leak is fixed. thanks for the help!

started up the saw this morning and made a few cuts before work. saw ran fine but now the chain brake won't disengage. guess i'll have to take that side of the saw apart yet again tonight to figure out what went wrong

glad I didn't jump right into milling. should have realized that a shake down would be necessary to make sure all of the moving parts function like they aught to. glad to have the knowledge of people who have "been there, done that"!


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> well I got to put the oil tube in last night, and wouldn't you know it, my leak is fixed. thanks for the help!
> 
> started up the saw this morning and made a few cuts before work. saw ran fine but now the chain brake won't disengage. guess i'll have to take that side of the saw apart yet again tonight to figure out what went wrong
> 
> glad I didn't jump right into milling. should have realized that a shake down would be necessary to make sure all of the moving parts function like they aught to. glad to have the knowledge of people who have "been there, done that"!


 yep and it gives it time to brake in before you get down and gritty with it.


----------



## gchamber

So I fixed the chain brake issue. Turns out the retaining pin on the bottom of the brake band failed which allowed the band to shift and then bind. So I made a new pin and all seems to be working. I'm going to order a new one along with a new clutch cover and clutch just in case I created too much heat. But it's running and cutting now! 

On a side note also, I sprayed some brake cleaner at the base of the cylinder and wasn't able to hear any audible change in idle. So I think I'm good there. But just curious, had I had an issue with it, what would be the solution?


----------



## Bedford T

gchamber said:


> So I fixed the chain brake issue. Turns out the retaining pin on the bottom of the brake band failed which allowed the band to shift and then bind. So I made a new pin and all seems to be working. I'm going to order a new one along with a new clutch cover and clutch just in case I created too much heat. But it's running and cutting now!
> 
> On a side note also, I sprayed some brake cleaner at the base of the cylinder and wasn't able to hear any audible change in idle. So I think I'm good there. But just curious, had I had an issue with it, what would be the solution?


How did the pin fail? You mean the missing pin? The same one I warned about? Good luck!


----------



## gchamber

No I had a pin, but I had to grind it down to fit in the groove because it wasn't centered. But I guess it was too short by the time I was done and must have had enough room to slide all the way to one side or the other.


----------



## gchamber

Does the OEM gas tank seal not swell up as much at the AM one? Probably the only complaint I have about cutting today was keeping that seal in place.


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> Does the OEM gas tank seal not swell up as much at the AM one? Probably the only complaint I have about cutting today was keeping that seal in place.


Yea you should go with the oem gas cap.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T have a interesting thing to show you. I got another 54mm cilinder today the one on my ms660 ses farmertec right on it and the one I just got today doesn't but has a marking up on the combustion chamber have you ever ran across one of these before???


----------



## 5703ms660

I just received my kit last week and I assembled it this weekend. I was shorted 3 M5 lock nuts and my “Choke Shaft” doesn’t come anywhere close to operating the choke. The choke shaft just detents into two positions. Run and off. No other positions. Anyone else get a choke shaft like this? All I need to order is a OEM one and I’m good to go?

thanks


----------



## MG porting

5703ms660 said:


> I just received my kit last week and I assembled it this weekend. I was shorted 3 M5 lock nuts and my “Choke Shaft” doesn’t come anywhere close to operating the choke. The choke shaft just derents into two positions. Run and off. No other positions. Anyone else get a choke shaft like this? All I need to order is a OEM one and I’m good to go?
> 
> thanks


Not sure about the others but I've never seen happen like that but yes a factory one should work just fine.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Bedford T have a interesting thing to show you. I got another 54mm cilinder today the one on my ms660 ses farmertec right on it and the one I just got today doesn't but has a marking up on the combustion chamber have you ever ran across one of these before??? View attachment 628543


Yes, that Mark shows up on most of theirs. I think they make most of their cylinders. But from time to time I think they have bought outside.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Yes, that Mark shows up on most of theirs. I think they make most of their cylinders. But from time to time I think they have bought outside.


OK cool the funny thing is this cilinder is really nice the ports are smooth and clean transfers are pretty nice as well I did notice that the port timing is different to so I'm hopping with this one I can get a little better low end grunt at a lower rpm the one on the saw makes power but at a highe rpm. And thanks for your info really appreciat it.


----------



## William Prophett

Update on the 660 56. Here is the fix for the chain adjuster... I ordered an OEM adjuster, and started having some problems with that one skipping. So I decided to rip it apart to put in the new HO oil pump and try to figure out where the problem was with the adjuster. On the left side of the threaded adjuster rod there is a worm gear and small stud sticking out that rests in a housing in the case. I've seen Walt talk about shimming these things and was going to machine a brass bushing to house the stud and fit snug in the housing. As luck and education would have it, my local (every time I go there I say why do I ever go anywhere else) mom and pop hardware store had the perfect size brass tubing for $1.56... You need to cut a piece off that is slightly longer than the stud and then just sand or file it down to be flush with the end of the stud and stick it back in... Slop is gone and the adjuster works seamlessly. I'll try to attach some photos. Finally put a final tune after break in time and ran the saw on the mill this past weekend. I set the high side at 13,000 and to say that I'm happy is a gross understatement. This thing blows my modified mill saws away. Idles perfect, tons of compression, revs like a 372... Milled up some 22" diameter pine logs to test the original oil pump and this thing doesn't even kniw there is wood getting in the way. I'll try to upload some videos that I took... Stay at it! I'll give a review on the new HO oiler as soon as I can put it back in some wood. I was running a 36" bar and to be honest, I really didn't have a big problem with the way the kit pump was oiling...


----------



## Bedford T

William Prophett said:


> Update on the 660 56. Here is the fix for the chain adjuster... I ordered an OEM adjuster, and started having some problems with that one skipping. So I decided to rip it apart to put in the new HO oil pump and try to figure out where the problem was with the adjuster. On the left side of the threaded adjuster rod there is a worm gear and small stud sticking out that rests in a housing in the case. I've seen Walt talk about shimming these things and was going to machine a brass bushing to house the stud and fit snug in the housing. As luck and education would have it, my local (every time I go there I say why do I ever go anywhere else) mom and pop hardware store had the perfect size brass tubing for $1.56... You need to cut a piece off that is slightly longer than the stud and then just sand or file it down to be flush with the end of the stud and stick it back in... Slop is gone and the adjuster works seamlessly. I'll try to attach some photos. Finally put a final tune after break in time and ran the saw on the mill this past weekend. I set the high side at 13,000 and to say that I'm happy is a gross understatement. This thing blows my modified mill saws away. Idles perfect, tons of compression, revs like a 372... Milled up some 22" diameter pine logs to test the original oil pump and this thing doesn't even kniw there is wood getting in the way. I'll try to upload some videos that I took... Stay at it! I'll give a review on the new HO oiler as soon as I can put it back in some wood. I was running a 36" bar and to be honest, I really didn't have a big problem with the way the kit pump was oiling...


Glad you got it fixed. Walt got the fix here from another fella. Credit goes to him for figuring it out for all of us.


----------



## William Prophett




----------



## William Prophett

Hope this works.


----------



## William Prophett

Sorry I didn't take any photos of the one that I installed on the saw. I didn't think about it until it was all back together.


----------



## Bedford T

Here is a photo of some that were left overs. Giving you a perspective for those that wound up with a old style case and might need one. It's the case not the gear that's the issue.


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> Here is a photo of some that were left overs. Giving you a perspective for those that wound up with a old style case and might need one. It's the case not the gear that's the issue.


Interesting. Which leads me back to my theory that they shipped a bunch of "old leftover stuff" for that Black Friday sale. I just got my kit in December and had to shim an OEM adjuster...


----------



## gchamber

Has anyone had issues with the t27 heads breaking off of the cylinder head bolts? I just found 3 of my 4 broken....


----------



## Bedford T

Sorry

First there has to be more to the story here. 3 of 4 broke? You were cutting with it?


----------



## cre73

gchamber said:


> View attachment 629587
> View attachment 629588
> View attachment 629589
> View attachment 629590
> View attachment 629587
> View attachment 629588
> Has anyone had issues with the t27 heads breaking off of the cylinder head bolts? I just found 3 of my 4 broken....



Any chance you checked the top of your piston for damage? What was your squish? Just a thought.


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> View attachment 629587
> View attachment 629588
> View attachment 629589
> View attachment 629590
> View attachment 629587
> View attachment 629588
> Has anyone had issues with the t27 heads breaking off of the cylinder head bolts? I just found 3 of my 4 broken....


Well although I can say yes but not on the ms660 it can happen even on the oem saws. How are you tightening them? But easy fix if the heads just broke off flush at the top of the cylinder will take time and patience .


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Well although I can say yes but not on the ms660 it can happen even on the oem saws. How are you tightening them? But easy fix if the heads just broke off flush at the top of the cylinder will take time and patience .


There is more to it than yes it's possible. He needs to take a hard look at what he did and did not do. The math is on the high side


----------



## gchamber

Yes I was cutting with it. Then saw shut off. Would pop on choke and then run for a few seconds and cut off. Then I felt something hit my boot and found that bolt head on the ground. Was trying to remember what bolts were black, then dread set in when I realized the head bolts were the only thing I could think of that were black. Took the saw apart and found 2 others were missing as well. 

Just checked the top of the piston, and don't see any marks that indicate any collisions with the spark plug or the decomp plug (no valve)


----------



## Bedford T

Was it a FarmerTec or a cross jug. Use a base gasket?


----------



## gchamber

I am tightening them with a t27 screw driver by hand. Tightened in a cross pattern.


----------



## Bedford T

That would make you sick to feel that hit your boot. I know from personal experience the cross could cause that. I had one bolt break off as I tightened it. Once. Required a new thread cut. What you described all else equal and known sounds like bad bolts.


----------



## gchamber

It's the farmertec 56mm big bore piston and cylinder. I used the OEM base gasket clearanced to allow the skirt to come down fully. I just popped the cylinder off and this is what I found.


----------



## Bedford T

There has always been trouble with 56mm cylinder and you can see how those bolts got hammered. 

The real problem now is damage to the crank bearing. 

I hate that for you. You might want to order a case, crank and a 54mm cylinder.


----------



## gchamber

What would cause damage to the crank bearing? And I'm not sure what you mean that I can see how the bolts got hammered. 

I've got the 54mm cylinder from the kit. But I'd still need new cylinder bolts. I also just went back out to where I was cutting and found another bolt head. So it seems at least 2 of them were very recent


----------



## gchamber

I was able to turn the two headless bolts that were still in the case out and matched them to the two bolt heads I found. I haven't located the 4th bolt or bolt head so idk what happened to it.


----------



## Bedford T

gchamber said:


> What would cause damage to the crank bearing? And I'm not sure what you mean that I can see how the bolts got hammered.
> 
> I've got the 54mm cylinder from the kit. But I'd still need new cylinder bolts. I also just went back out to where I was cutting and found another bolt head. So it seems at least 2 of them were very recent


I am going to leave it at just that. It's hard tell excatly from a photo. Again sorry that happened to you. To be clear, I think there was pressure at the base that unseated the cylinder. I think that damaged your bearing. Again, that all I have to offer


----------



## gchamber

Is there a way to tell if the bearing is bad? The piston still moves up and down freely. I would hate to order new parts unnecessarily.


----------



## Bedford T

gchamber said:


> Is there a way to tell if the bearing is bad? The piston still moves up and down freely. I would hate to order new parts unnecessarily.


Put your 54 on an plow ahead. Just remember if it does not last long. In my opinion common sense must be used. Those bolts are not made out of rice and it popped them off. The piston rides on those bearings. The piston movement caused the bolt failure if I were a betting g man.

I feel your pain, me saying order the parts was so you could put it behind you and enjoy your saw


----------



## Bedford T

My trouble with the Cross was very similar to your issue/outcome. Same kind of dependencies. 

How do you think you bolts got in that condition? Be objective as you can be.


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> I am tightening them with a t27 screw driver by hand. Tightened in a cross pattern.


As Bedford T asked are you running a Cross cylinder? And if not you must be stronger than you think because that's how I lernt the hard way.


----------



## gchamber

My best guesses would be the bolts being over torqued, or loose enough that the bolts were able to back themselves out over time to the point that it allowed the cylinder head to move up and down slightly and rapidly eventually breaking the head off the stud. Or just too much compression/displacement that the bolts weren't strong enough to keep the head down?


----------



## Bedford T

Bedford T said:


> Next time you start your saw squirt something flammable along the base of the cylinder and if the idle changes you have a leak. Not perfect. I bet 30% or more maybe 40% chance you have a leak between cylinder and case. It happens that often.. let us know how it all turns out. Hope you have as much fun as most of us do


remember this? decisions made can have an adverse effect on your outcome. those bolts can tell you a lot. if it did not hurt you financially to bad, just learn from it.


----------



## Bedford T

gchamber said:


> My best guesses would be the bolts being over torqued, or loose enough that the bolts were able to back themselves out over time to the point that it allowed the cylinder head to move up and down slightly and rapidly eventually breaking the head off the stud. Or just too much compression/displacement that the bolts weren't strong enough to keep the head down?


those bolts broke, tore the heads off


----------



## gchamber

I'm not sure what a cross cylinder is. Is that a brand? Everything I got from huztl plus the recommended OEM parts (wrist pin, circlips, gaskets, impulse line, manifold elbow)


----------



## gchamber

I did squirt brake cleaner at my base gasket and didn't hear any discernible difference in idle. 

Should those bolts have been retorqed after running the saw through its break in period? 

If I run the 54mm piston and cylinder on this lower end, I'm aware now that there's a good chance the crank bearing is bad and would cause the saw to fail probably sooner rather than later. But if I was going to order a new case and crank anyway does it really matter if that bearing fails while running the 54mm as I wait 3 weeks for the parts to ship? 

Is it just a bad idea to run the big bore kit? Is that the moral of the story here?


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> I'm not sure what a cross cylinder is. Is that a brand? Everything I got from huztl plus the recommended OEM parts (wrist pin, circlips, gaskets, impulse line, manifold elbow)


Do me a favor and take your piston off and put your cylinder back on and make sure that your transfor ports aren't hitting the case that can be something else to look at.


----------



## gchamber

The transfer ports on the outside I'm guessing you mean? I can't imagine how the transfer ports would hit the case on the inside?


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> The transfer ports on the outside I'm guessing you mean? I can't imagine how the transfer ports would hit the case on the inside?


Yes the outside sorry. Lol


----------



## Ozhoo

I just tested the force required to break a farmertec bolt in a farmertec case and it's way higher than anything that can be generated by hand. I even tried to shear one with a 1/4 impact and couldn't do it.

There's way too many of these things on the street so I'm wagering that something is up with your assembly process. As mentioned, you need to check every step of the assembly before proceeding.


----------



## gchamber

That's not a fair test. You're not putting the bolt in tension the way it is holding the cylinder head down over the base gasket.


----------



## Ozhoo

And now looking at this picture, I'm going with loose cylinder bolts. See all that mix around the cylinder base? Use either a T-handle or a 1/4" impact.


----------



## Ozhoo

gchamber said:


> That's not a fair test. You're not putting the bolt in tension the way it is holding the cylinder head down over the base gasket.



Stand by, I'll go get a cylinder...


----------



## Ozhoo

Fresh battery, new bolts, same crankcase as previous test and I couldn't shear the bolt.


----------



## gchamber

I too think the cylinder bolts were loose. I was able to turn the studs out by hand when I removed the cylinder. But I don't know why they were loose. I am sure they were tight when I installed the cylinder. But I'm not sure of the protocol about retorquing after running the saw for its break in period.


----------



## Ozhoo

Blue loctite is your friend during assembly... on everything but especially on cylinder and muffler bolts. Re-torquing isn't required with a metal base gasket but couldn't hurt either. Especially now that you've had problems.


----------



## gchamber

Are these bolts specific for cylinder install. Can I find replacements at the local hardware store? Or should I order huztl/OEM?


----------



## Ozhoo

They're M6x25 and while you can find normal socket head screws at local hardware stores, it isn't likely that you'll find T27 heads.

PM me your address and I'll send you some. You're only a state away so they'll likely be there on Saturday.


----------



## gchamber

MG porting said:


> Do me a favor and take your piston off and put your cylinder back on and make sure that your transfor ports aren't hitting the case that can be something else to look at.



So I think you're on to something here.... looks like the jug was rubbing on the case


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> So I think you're on to something here.... looks like the jug was rubbing on the case View attachment 629615
> View attachment 629616


Yep that will do it you need to make some room but make sure that you don't get carried away and prevent the debris from getting in the crank case and make double sure the other transfer isn't touching the case as well this is a common problem with the big bore cilinders.


----------



## gchamber

so now my question is, should I be optimistic, clearance the case, get new jug bolts and put it all back together, hoping for the best? 

Or do I take the cautious approach and order a new case and crank before putting it all back together?


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> so now my question is, should I be optimistic, clearance the case, get new jug bolts and put it all back together, hoping for the best?
> 
> Or do I take the cautious approach and order a new case and crank before putting it all back together?


If it was me I would atleest look it over and mama sure you can spin the crank and feel for any ruffnes in the barrings if it feels smooth run it but only after you give the jug some room for her big hips. Lol.


----------



## gchamber

Crank definitely spins nice. I thought it was hanging up but then realized it was just grabbing the magnet on the flywheel/spark generator.


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> Crank definitely spins nice. I thought it was hanging up but then realized it was just grabbing the magnet on the flywheel/spark generator.


You need to gap your coil if it is touching the flywheel us a business card to get a proper gap.


----------



## gchamber

No coil is gapped right. But as the magnet on the flywheel spins to line up with the coil, it gets a little pull, making the piston seem to "stick" but it's just the magnetic force.

I've clearance the case to make room for the big badonkadonk on this thing now. So hopefully I can get some cylinder bolts tomorrow. Otherwise I'll be contacting Ozhoo to be kind enough to send me a set.


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> View attachment 629631
> View attachment 629632
> View attachment 629633
> No coil is gapped right. But as the magnet on the flywheel spins to line up with the coil, it gets a little pull, making the piston seem to "stick" but it's just the magnetic force.
> 
> I've clearance the case to make room for the big badonkadonk on this thing now. So hopefully I can get some cylinder bolts tomorrow. Otherwise I'll be contacting Ozhoo to be kind enough to send me a set.


Good to here you should be able to go to your stihl dealer and get what you need to get you up and going again.


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> View attachment 629631
> View attachment 629632
> View attachment 629633
> No coil is gapped right. But as the magnet on the flywheel spins to line up with the coil, it gets a little pull, making the piston seem to "stick" but it's just the magnetic force.
> 
> I've clearance the case to make room for the big badonkadonk on this thing now. So hopefully I can get some cylinder bolts tomorrow. Otherwise I'll be contacting Ozhoo to be kind enough to send me a set.


So just to see how things went for you did you get your saw back together???


----------



## gchamber

Currently awaiting my cylinder head bolts to arrive from Ozhoo. Probably wont get it back together until Sunday or Monday if they arrive this weekend. I am hopeful that with clearancing the case, the crank will survive for a while when I get it back together. I will keep you all posted, and start preparing for purchasing a new case and crank and OEM gasket kit again lol


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> Currently awaiting my cylinder head bolts to arrive from Ozhoo. Probably wont get it back together until Sunday or Monday if they arrive this weekend. I am hopeful that with clearancing the case, the crank will survive for a while when I get it back together. I will keep you all posted, and start preparing for purchasing a new case and crank and OEM gasket kit again lol


Sounds good the saw will talk to you if there's something major wrong just pay close attention and go easy with it and hopefully she'll be fine.


----------



## gchamber

It was running excellent until it just cut out, so I am hopeful the two bolt heads I found let go about the same time and the saw just stopped working at that point because it lost it's seal and no major harm was done. It might be wishful thinking but even if I have to order a new case, crank and seals, it still will be less than $100.


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> It was running excellent until it just cut out, so I am hopeful the two bolt heads I found let go about the same time and the saw just stopped working at that point because it lost it's seal and no major harm was done. It might be wishful thinking but even if I have to order a new case, crank and seals, it still will be less than $100.


I'm going to be more hopeful for you even though these saw are just copies of the reel deal but i believe that if there a copie of the real saw then they should be able to take some pounding .


----------



## Marco

The cyl screws on my HL Farmertec kit are silver, right bolt in right place?


----------



## Ozhoo

Marco said:


> The cyl screws on my HL Farmertec kit are silver, right bolt in right place?



You probably used muffler bolts on your cylinder. Silver M6x20 are lower muffler bolts, black M6x25 are cylinder bolts.


----------



## MG porting

That would be bad.


----------



## Bedford T

I took my 660 out for a tune-up. It ran for about 2 minutes while I fumbled around looking for my tach and then it abruptly cut off. It did not load up and cut off, it just cut off so I knew something was wrong. I suspected a fuel issue. I emptied my fuel tank. Took my pressure guns hose and blew my line out to remove the fuel and then did a pressure test. I had a leak. My leak was at the elbow going into the tank. My local store had one, I will pick it up tomorrow.

I secretly hoped it was not anything bad. How that occurred who knows. I did put a piece of r3 between the elbow and carb. Must have cracked it.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I took my 660 out for a tune-up. It ran for about 2 minutes while I fumbled around looking for my tach and then it abruptly cut off. It did not load up and cut off, it just cut off so I knew something was wrong. I suspected a fuel issue. I emptied my fuel tank. Took my pressure guns hose and blew my line out to remove the fuel and then did a pressure test. I had a leak. My leak was at the elbow going into the tank. My local store had one, I will pick it up tomorrow.
> 
> I secretly hoped it was not anything bad. How that occurred who knows. I did put a piece of r3 between the elbow and carb. Must have cracked it.


For some reason mine will idle and run normal full throttle but and it's a big but if I sit it down and let it idle for a bit then tap the throttle it will die I'm so done with this carb I'm going to break down and get a Tillotson hs-320a.


----------



## Bedford T

I am using a wj-76 walbro. Works good


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I am using a wj-76 walbro. Works good


I would get a walbro but they want a ton of money for them.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> I would get a walbro but they want a ton of money for them.


I paid like 55$


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I paid like 55$


Wow!!! Was that new or used??


----------



## Marco

Ozhoo said:


> You probably used muffler bolts on your cylinder. Silver M6x20 are lower muffler bolts, black M6x25 are cylinder bolts.


Oh, Gees, I screwed up. Not.


----------



## Marco

I don't know why all this grumbling, Oddjob runs nice.


----------



## Bedford T

I got a email. they are going to sell a pop off gauge soon. so no more excuses for building a saw and not testing it. anyone wanna 200t?


----------



## gchamber

MG porting said:


> For some reason mine will idle and run normal full throttle but and it's a big but if I sit it down and let it idle for a bit then tap the throttle it will die I'm so done with this carb I'm going to break down and get a Tillotson hs-320a.



Sounds like your low adjustment might be slightly off? might try giving it a tweak to the left to see if that helps at all before throwing money at parts. Before my cylinder bolts popped, I had that carb tuned up so so nice, it ran great


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> Sounds like your low adjustment might be slightly off? might try giving it a tweak to the left to see if that helps at all before throwing money at parts. Before my cylinder bolts popped, I had that carb tuned up so so nice, it ran great


IvI' tried its really sesative i ported my cylinder so a better carb is a must.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I got a email. they are going to sell a pop off gauge soon. so no more excuses for building a saw and not testing it. anyone wanna 200t?


Never needed one but I've woeked onoa few they are screamers.


----------



## smokey7

Im just reading and catching up. Im having a really hard time seeing how the saw that broke the jug bolts would need anything more then a new set of bolts and maybe a gasket. A case and crank with bearings seems way not needed. Im sure the clearance to the transfer tunnels will help it all fit together with no binding and i find it doubtful you will have anynore issues with breaking bolts provided they are getting torqued evenly and to a proper spec. Id bet 25 ftlbs is more then plenty to hold it all together for the long term. I also doubt that using the wrong length (shorter) bolts would cause them to break either. Nice builds guys hope everyone is enjoying the process of building a clean new saw from scratch.


----------



## Bedford T

smokey7 said:


> Im just reading and catching up. Im having a really hard time seeing how the saw that broke the jug bolts would need anything more then a new set of bolts and maybe a gasket. A case and crank with bearings seems way not needed. Im sure the clearance to the transfer tunnels will help it all fit together with no binding and i find it doubtful you will have anynore issues with breaking bolts provided they are getting torqued evenly and to a proper spec. Id bet 25 ftlbs is more then plenty to hold it all together for the long term. I also doubt that using the wrong length (shorter) bolts would cause them to break either. Nice builds guys hope everyone is enjoying the process of building a clean new saw from scratch.


If he can check the torque don't encourage him to over do it. 

11 ft lb per stihl


----------



## gchamber

Pretty sure 11 ft lb is easily achievable. I dont have a 1/4" drive torque wrench though. or a socket small enough to fit down the cylinder fins for that matter, but I don't think the bolts being loose from the get go was the issue. I think the cylinder was pinched against the case not allowing me to tighten the bolts all the way down, then with the vibration and the expanding and cooling from heat cycles, the bolts worked their way out until eventually there was enough room for the cylinder to move up and down, hammering the heads off. 

I think Bedford's advise was more of a "replace all this and you'll know for sure it wont be a problem again" instead of me putting the saw back together, running it for an hour or so and then the crank bearing seizing. Either way, my plan is to try to put it back together with new head bolts and see what happens. The gasket isn't bent or creased or anything, so I am going to install it then try to complete a leak down test to ensure proper sealing. Hopefully all good and I can get back to sawing!


----------



## William Prophett

gchamber said:


> Pretty sure 11 ft lb is easily achievable. I dont have a 1/4" drive torque wrench though. or a socket small enough to fit down the cylinder fins for that matter, but I don't think the bolts being loose from the get go was the issue. I think the cylinder was pinched against the case not allowing me to tighten the bolts all the way down, then with the vibration and the expanding and cooling from heat cycles, the bolts worked their way out until eventually there was enough room for the cylinder to move up and down, hammering the heads off.
> 
> I think Bedford's advise was more of a "replace all this and you'll know for sure it wont be a problem again" instead of me putting the saw back together, running it for an hour or so and then the crank bearing seizing. Either way, my plan is to try to put it back together with new head bolts and see what happens. The gasket isn't bent or creased or anything, so I am going to install it then try to complete a leak down test to ensure proper sealing. Hopefully all good and I can get back to sawing!


I really think it will be fine. One word of caution, and I'm not sure if it will matter or not, the metal base gaskets are "supposed" to be "one time use" gaskets. You have three options here, one is to use the gasket and hope, the second is to use the gasket and coat the surfaces with 1184 (that I do anyway), and third would steal the gasket from the other 54mm cylider (granted thats if you didn't use it the first time). Also, if you did use the kit gasket, did you grind it out for clearance for the 56 (I think I remeber seeing you say you did)... I believe you are exactly right, the clearance issue caused the issue and as the bolts loosened up they got hammered off.


----------



## Bedford T

I found a air leak. Its likely possible on all the recent kit saws. a 1$ will fix it.


----------



## MG porting

Well Bedford T i went ahead and ordered a Tillotson hs-320a today it should be here sometime next week $55.99 I like.


----------



## Bedford T

Cool, no more carb worries. Tune it in and cut. 

I had mine off as I fixed that leak and it had Stihl printed on the side of the compensator. I bought it from a dealer that sells all walbro and tolliston. I about choked. So that means it came from another county they don't make them without the limiters here. I wonder what market it came from. I purchased about 3 tollistons and several walbro, from them. Now if I could just find a good deal on the coil


----------



## MG porting

Well on the coil i found that stens coils aren't to bad on price ive used there coils on ms440 and a 044. Have you had much problems with the farmertec coils??


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Well on the coil i found that stens coils aren't to bad on price ive used there coils on ms440 and a 044. Have you had much problems with the farmertec coils??


No issues with my coil. I have gotten bad ones in the past. I love the kits. I love them starting every single time I asked them to.

So over the past few months I have been buying oem carbs and coils for everything. When I find a oem coil I can afford I will buy it and keep it until mine dies, which it will sometime and then install it. Until then it assures me I can trouble shoot my saw. All else being equal those are the items most likely to let us kit owners down.

I would rather use a FarmerTec. They likely make them for Stens. Stens does not manufacturer their stuff. Might some things.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> No issues with my coil. I have gotten bad ones in the past. I love the kits. I love them starting every single time I asked them to.
> 
> So over the past few months I have been buying oem carbs and coils for everything. When I find a oem coil I can afford I will buy it and keep it until mine dies, which it will sometime and then install it. Until then it assures me I can trouble my saw. All else being equal those are the items most likely to let us kit owners down.
> 
> I would rather use a FarmerTec. They likely make them for Stens. Stens does not manufacturer their stuff. Might some things.


Yep so far I'm not a big fan of the carb that i got from them but I've seen bran new oem ones to. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

We can be picky. Nothing wrong with choosing a better whatever. We built it we can do it our way. I remember guys bragging about their favorite 4 barrel carb in their car. No difference here


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> We can be picky. Nothing wrong with choosing a better whatever. We built it we can do it our way. I remember guys bragging about their favorite 4 barrel carb in their car. No difference here


Lol. I admit I'm pretty picky about what carb go's under the hood of my rigs.


----------



## Bedford T

I had further trouble with my saw. You guys might want to look at what happened. Its what you don't see that gets you. To 5:10 to understand whats going on and then fast forward to 12:47 should make it less painless. I had something similar to this happen on my 380. These things make you excel at troubleshooting!


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I had further trouble with my saw. You guys might want to look at what happened. Its what you don't see that gets you. To 5:10 to understand whats going on and then fast forward to 12:47 should make it less painless. I had something similar to this happen on my 380. These things make you excel at troubleshooting!



Lol. Leave it to be something simple to make you scratch your head. Thanks to you running in to that problem I'll be looking at mine tomorrow night.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Lol. Leave it to be something simple to make you scratch your head. Thanks to you running in to that problem I'll be looking at mine tomorrow night.


You can't help but wonder how many are like that. A tiny flaw can cause a lot of trouble. I have built a lot and never once looked down the throat. I will from now on.

Will be interested to hear


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> You can't help but wonder how many are like that. A tiny flaw can cause a lot of trouble. I have built a lot and never once looked down the throat. I will from now on.
> 
> Will be interested to hear


Yep I'll let you know for sure what I find and I'll take some pictures for you tot


----------



## Marco

Pa and I have a real sawmill so I ain't milling withis pig, I have been out retrieving logs with a Jonyred 625 and topping with a 26. Even if it is a shiny turd it is still shiny. I will break the firewood pile down with Oddjob.


----------



## Bedford T

It's one thing after the other. I went to my shop and was going to crank up the 660. Could not cut. It's too nasty for me right now and more rain to come. I still wanted to hear it idle.

So I noticed my cord druping so I took cord off and rewound and notice a problem it appeared with the spring


No doubt with the trouble I had with that cross cylinder. It had bent several things. So I pulled the rotor and it had jammed up the end. Fortunately I had a spare spring. If I had not checked it would have ruined the rotor


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> It's one thing after the other. I went to my shop and was going to crank up the 660. Could not cut. It's too nasty for me right now and more rain to come. I still wanted to hear it idle.
> 
> So I noticed my cord druping so I took cord off and rewound and notice a problem it appeared with the spring
> 
> 
> No doubt with the trouble I had with that cross cylinder. It had bent several things. So I pulled the rotor and it had jammed up the end. Fortunately I had a spare spring. If I had not checked it would have ruined the rotor


Well thats not good but at least you had a spare. Now then I took a look at my vent today and this is what it looked like and its just fine but my vent is why different than the one you got in your kit.


----------



## Bedford T

Glad it's not pandemic on the vent obstruction. If I were you I would change that vent out. The one I had was fine and I thought they went to the mushroom because of the problems we had with that design. That one has a little duckbill that will cause problems or did in the past.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> View attachment 630706
> View attachment 630705
> Glad it's not pandemic on the vent obstruction. If I were you I would change that vent out. The one I had was fine and I thought they went to the mushroom because of the problems we had with that design. That one has a little duckbill that will cause problems or did in the past.


Yea I was thinking about getting a oem one and the seal to because of how spungy it feels.


----------



## Marco

HL supply has them on sale today


----------



## Bedford T

I wonder how they make decisions. The mushroom was different looking but the design I thought was changed because of the duckbill and now it reappears. looks like they would make sure that lost cost part would be as effective as possible so people would not run into issues. now that you mention it i am going to order the grommet, then the vent should work a long time. its not but 6$ vent at stihl so its not a lot of money


----------



## Bedford T

Marco said:


> HL supply has them on sale today


they dont sell oem. i have not looked but they sell a lot of farmertec which that part is.

i went and took a peek, its been long time since i checked them out. interestingly enough that have the 660 kit delivered at a great price today. but what was really interesting is the say they do not recommending building a saw from it and there is no warranty. sounds like that was a pain point for them. how confusing is that, dont build a saw with this complete build kit lol


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I wonder how they make decisions. The mushroom was different looking but the design I thought was changed because of the duckbill and now it reappears. looks like they would make sure that lost cost part would be as effective as possible so people would not run into issues. now that you mention it i am going to order the grommet, then the vent should work a long time. its not but 6$ vent at stihl so its not a lot of money


Yep cheap enough to make it last a long time for sure.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> they dont sell oem. i have not looked but they sell a lot of farmertec which that part is.
> 
> i went and took a peek, its been long time since i checked them out. interestingly enough that have the 660 kit delivered at a great price today. but what was really interesting is the say they do not recommending building a saw from it and there is no warranty. sounds like that was a pain point for them. how confusing is that, dont build a saw with this complete build kit lol


 lol thats funny.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Well Bedford T i went ahead and ordered a Tillotson hs-320a today it should be here sometime next week $55.99 I like.


I looked for the jet size on the 320a and could not find it. Do you know what you are getting? Still wet here and more due. 2 days of rain 2 days of dry is the type cycle we are in. I did get mine tuned and cut a few rounds and the .74 jet is sweet. I left it at 12500, the air was kinda warm at 55 so i will see how cold it is and how it does next start. Until I get about 4 tanks on it I keep a tach on it a lot. Its in my hand while i cut too, I have the long wire on it. 

i am also working on a simple something to help me start my saws. my feet are size 13 and I wear viking bushwhacker lug sole class one chainsaw boots that are also steel toed so no way i can't get my toe in them to ground start and thats the only way i can do it, on the ground. I have been using a 1x4 board and putting it in the handle and stepping on the board and it holds it down good. But, its just hard to shake out as i pick it up to gain control. you really don't want to shake the bar of a big mean saw and thats what happens when you try to get rid of the wood. but i will sort it out. i just need to shape the wood, figure out the best shape. also my chain was all lathered up really well. that oilier is doing its job. you got one of those too?


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I looked for the jet size on the 320a and could not find it. Do you know what you are getting? Still wet here and more due. 2 days of rain 2 days of dry is the type cycle we are in. I did get mine tuned and cut a few rounds and the .74 jet is sweet. I left it at 12500, the air was kinda warm at 55 so i will see how cold it is and how it does next start. Until I get about 4 tanks on it I keep a tach on it a lot. Its in my hand while i cut too, I have the long wire on it.
> 
> i am also working on a simple something to help me start my saws. my feet are size 13 and I wear viking bushwhacker lug sole class one chainsaw boots that are also steel toed so no way i can't get my toe in them to ground start and thats the only way i can do it, on the ground. I have been using a 1x4 board and putting it in the handle and stepping on the board and it holds it down good. But, its just hard to shake out as i pick it up to gain control. you really don't want to shake the bar of a big mean saw and thats what happens when you try to get rid of the wood. but i will sort it out. i just need to shape the wood, figure out the best shape. also my chain was all lathered up really well. that oilier is doing its job. you got one of those too?


The carb was shipped this morning so mostlikely be here Friday not sure on the jet size that it will have I'm hoping its bigger than a 62 thats for sure.  glad you got your saw working good now itsi my turn now . Lol


----------



## Marco

Do you find fault with the HL kit?


----------



## Marco

I was blocking 20-24" white oak with my HL kit and Father was even impressed, Father don't like anything that's my idea.


----------



## Bedford T

Marco said:


> Do you find fault with the HL kit?


Their kit is a FarmerTec kit just in their bags. Literally.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Their kit is a FarmerTec kit just in their bags. Literally.


Well Bedford T although I don't get my new carb today but maybe tomorrow it will show up but seens I had some time on my hands this morning I had a friend come over with his jet reamer and i took the stalk .62 jet and ternd it into a .70 jet wow what a difference it made now the high speed kneatil is 1-1/4 out from bottom way way better. Now I really can't wait for the tillastion be funny to see how it runs with that because it run super great now.


----------



## Bedford T

Awesome! This stuff is exciting. It will be here soon hopefully. You got something to play with until. It will be interesting to see which you like better. Maybe you can use your buddies tools to determine the size of the jet in your new carb. Think of how small 62 is. I been saying starving our saws and that is what happens at 62


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Awesome! This stuff is exciting. It will be here soon hopefully. You got something to play with until. It will be interesting to see which you like better. Maybe you can use your buddies tools to determine the size of the jet in your new carb. Think of how small 62 is. I been saying starving our saws and that is what happens at 62


Yep we already talked about checking the jet size on the tillastion when it gets here it will be fun. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

I picked up my grommet for the vent today. It was an improvement. 1.40$


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I picked up my grommet for the vent today. It was an improvement. 1.40$


Yea I noticed on mine today it was weeping a little bit there rubber gets to soft with fuel so next month I'll be putting stock lines on mine as well as vent that should make it pretty solid on the fuel side of things. How much of a difference did you notice on yours?? Must make you feel good that yours is running strong now.


----------



## Bedford T

With fuel, it's gotta be perfect or we can run into issues. Since we built it putting those few parts on it makes it reliable. I built a beautiful saw. Perfect. Then I had trouble just pulling on the recoil and after a good amount of time and effort I got it all sorted out.

So yes sir it does feel good. I can run mine with confidence that there is zero reason for me to go lean. Even my filter would now stay submerged should I rolled it on it's side. My carb should not surprise me in the cut.

thats where you are headed


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> With fuel, it's gotta be perfect or we can run into issues. Since we built it putting those few parts on it makes it reliable. I built a beautiful saw. Perfect. Then I had trouble just pulling on the recoil and after a good amount of time and effort I got it all sorted out.
> 
> So yes sir it does feel good. I can run mine with confidence that there is zero reason for me to go lean. Even my filter would now stay submerged should I rolled it on it's side. My carb should not surprise me in the cut.
> 
> thats where you are headed
> 
> 
> View attachment 631417


Lol. Yep cant wait ill let you know if my carb comes tomorrow and what I find out on the jet. 


Bedford T said:


> With fuel, it's gotta be perfect or we can run into issues. Since we built it putting those few parts on it makes it reliable. I built a beautiful saw. Perfect. Then I had trouble just pulling on the recoil and after a good amount of time and effort I got it all sorted out.
> 
> So yes sir it does feel good. I can run mine with confidence that there is zero reason for me to go lean. Even my filter would now stay submerged should I rolled it on it's side. My carb should not surprise me in the cut.
> 
> thats where you are headed
> 
> 
> View attachment 631417


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> How much of a difference did you notice on yours??



Sorry I overlooked that in my response. I think it is better and will prevent a problem later, especially considering that the vent is oem. So I can exclude that as a first line worry. 

In closing, the fuel lines and connector is oem. So it should be and stay tight a long time. I am going to add this suggestion on my website


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Sorry I overlooked that in my response. I think it is better and will prevent a problem later, especially considering that the vent is oem. So I can exclude that as a first line worry.
> 
> In closing, the fuel lines and connector is oem. So it should be and stay tight a long time. I am going to add this suggestion on my website


Well im a little bumb out the carb didn't show up today so hopefully it will be here tomorrow.


----------



## Bedford T

Did they not give you tracking? Hopefully it will come. Waiting sux


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Did they not give you tracking? Hopefully it will come. Waiting sux


Yea they gave me tracking but every time I tap on it it won't respond. But I've figured maybe if it takes longer to get here it must be good. Lol.


----------



## geekamole

I've been lurking and reading these threads a lot but now that my build is complete I thought I should document my challenges. Afleetcommand and Matt's bolt-for-bolt videos were very helpful as were these threads. This is my first time working on chainsaw guts.

I ordered my kit in September but only got it running this week (after multiple teardowns and redos, and much frustration). The big breakthrough was figuring out how I have to use the decomp valve. I can't just click it on then pull the cord, since when it fires it almost pulls my arm out of the socket (and doesn't start). But if I hold the button down while pulling, then release it at the end of the pull stroke, there is enough angular velocity for the saw to start when it fires. Maybe that's common knowledge and I should have asked earlier. I'm still on the first tank but it seems to be working great.

I am aware of the bad rep of the Huztl decomp so I'm using an all-metal Forester branded one.

The only part missing was the clutch cover but they sent one no prob (just via china post).

I'm using a 54mm top end from a random china ebay seller since I stripped the decomp valve threads in the Huztl one. The new one is at 0.025" squish with no gasket, just motoseal. Also a random china ebay carb since I was trying to rule that out (the new one says "Walbro"...).

I used a press for the crank install and took the seals out first, and used new china seals both times. I had to redo the crank install since I messed up the gasket the first time and I later decided that a motoseal-only crankcase didn't leave enough internal clearance (< 5 thou or touching on both sides). As a last step I used a mallet on the shaft along with appropriate inside shims to make sure there was no preload on the bearings and get it fully centered. For press tools I just needed a piece of 3/4" iron pipe and a couple identical-length pieces of 5/8" steel rod. I used harbor freight blue loctite on the outer walls of the seals.

My china seals pass vac and pressure tests fine (for now). If you order a MityVac don't get it through eBay. I had an issue with the gauge not showing vac and the manufacturer was no help. Finally fixed it myself by slamming it hard against a table which somehow reset the needle.

My fuel line was leaking so I replaced it with tygon. I also used a utility knife to remove mold ridges on the elbow on top of the tank. The gas cap leaked so I got an OEM, but it doesn't seem any nicer. I still have to use a screwdriver to get it tight enough.

I was so excited to get the saw running that I throttled it a little with the chain brake on and melted the clutch eclip. The Stihl tech at the dealer suggested I get a new washer too and I think it was worth $3 for the washer. The chinese one is thin and stamped but the OEM one is thick and machined. Probably not a common failure point I guess.

I picked up a Huztl 070 preassembled on cyber monday since I wasn't sure if the 660 would ever run and I already had the Huztl 36" mill. I've only cut ten 20" slabs but it's working fine. I may try the 660 out with the mill but the 070 is pretty nice to use. I got a 42" bar to go with the 070. I guess the 660 might cut faster but get hotter. Even just considering the pitch/sound freq of the 070 vs the 660 I might want to stick with the 070 for milling.

I kinda want a 361 kit next...


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Yea they gave me tracking but every time I tap on it it won't respond. But I've figured maybe if it takes longer to get here it must be good. Lol.



A trick I use is to copy and paste the number into Google and it will give you the low down


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> A trick I use is to copy and paste the number into Google and it will give you the low down


OK I'l give that a try thanks Bedford T.


----------



## TreeJoe

geekamole said:


> I've been lurking and reading these threads a lot but now that my build is complete I thought I should document my challenges. Afleetcommand and Matt's bolt-for-bolt videos were very helpful as were these threads. This is my first time working on chainsaw guts.
> 
> I ordered my kit in September but only got it running this week (after multiple teardowns and redos, and much frustration). The big breakthrough was figuring out how I have to use the decomp valve. I can't just click it on then pull the cord, since when it fires it almost pulls my arm out of the socket (and doesn't start). But if I hold the button down while pulling, then release it at the end of the pull stroke, there is enough angular velocity for the saw to start when it fires. Maybe that's common knowledge and I should have asked earlier. I'm still on the first tank but it seems to be working great.
> 
> I am aware of the bad rep of the Huztl decomp so I'm using an all-metal Forester branded one.
> 
> The only part missing was the clutch cover but they sent one no prob (just via china post).
> 
> I'm using a 54mm top end from a random china ebay seller since I stripped the decomp valve threads in the Huztl one. The new one is at 0.025" squish with no gasket, just motoseal. Also a random china ebay carb since I was trying to rule that out (the new one says "Walbro"...).
> 
> I used a press for the crank install and took the seals out first, and used new china seals both times. I had to redo the crank install since I messed up the gasket the first time and I later decided that a motoseal-only crankcase didn't leave enough internal clearance (< 5 thou or touching on both sides). As a last step I used a mallet on the shaft along with appropriate inside shims to make sure there was no preload on the bearings and get it fully centered. For press tools I just needed a piece of 3/4" iron pipe and a couple identical-length pieces of 5/8" steel rod. I used harbor freight blue loctite on the outer walls of the seals.
> 
> My china seals pass vac and pressure tests fine (for now). If you order a MityVac don't get it through eBay. I had an issue with the gauge not showing vac and the manufacturer was no help. Finally fixed it myself by slamming it hard against a table which somehow reset the needle.
> 
> My fuel line was leaking so I replaced it with tygon. I also used a utility knife to remove mold ridges on the elbow on top of the tank. The gas cap leaked so I got an OEM, but it doesn't seem any nicer. I still have to use a screwdriver to get it tight enough.
> 
> I was so excited to get the saw running that I throttled it a little with the chain brake on and melted the clutch eclip. The Stihl tech at the dealer suggested I get a new washer too and I think it was worth $3 for the washer. The chinese one is thin and stamped but the OEM one is thick and machined. Probably not a common failure point I guess.
> 
> I picked up a Huztl 070 preassembled on cyber monday since I wasn't sure if the 660 would ever run and I already had the Huztl 36" mill. I've only cut ten 20" slabs but it's working fine. I may try the 660 out with the mill but the 070 is pretty nice to use. I got a 42" bar to go with the 070. I guess the 660 might cut faster but get hotter. Even just considering the pitch/sound freq of the 070 vs the 660 I might want to stick with the 070 for milling.
> 
> I kinda want a 361 kit next...






You brought out something I thought about posting on. I went with the the1chainsawguy. I watched those others guys videos, I tried them they were not my taste. I was looking more for a professional approach and well thought out presentation and his videos provided that. The old guy spends way to much time imparting wisdom I don't need. In fact there are no videos on the 070 that come even close to the1chainsawguy. Tips and tricks not available. The old guy, I saw him take an idea and use it and I can't forgive him for that. His videos are not clear. the1chainsawguy took the time to do it right. If you read he was the guy that found and provided the actual manual and the guy even has a website to give you information. He takes the kits very seriously. Seems like you had a rough go. The help you got was not much help was it? lol I did not even know HF had loctite.

I finally built a 660 and a 070 and I followed kit guys advice and had zero problems because he told you about the problems and how to handle them. I_t might be true that people are more comformatble listening to people who they think are more like them rather than how good a job they do, I notice he never appears on camera so I am not sure about that. I really like that he has a website, no ads, just info to help total strangers.

to you kit gut don't let this go to your head keep trying to improve, you should show more than your bald head_


----------



## MG porting

geekamole said:


> I've been lurking and reading these threads a lot but now that my build is complete I thought I should document my challenges. Afleetcommand and Matt's bolt-for-bolt videos were very helpful as were these threads. This is my first time working on chainsaw guts.
> 
> I ordered my kit in September but only got it running this week (after multiple teardowns and redos, and much frustration). The big breakthrough was figuring out how I have to use the decomp valve. I can't just click it on then pull the cord, since when it fires it almost pulls my arm out of the socket (and doesn't start). But if I hold the button down while pulling, then release it at the end of the pull stroke, there is enough angular velocity for the saw to start when it fires. Maybe that's common knowledge and I should have asked earlier. I'm still on the first tank but it seems to be working great.
> 
> I am aware of the bad rep of the Huztl decomp so I'm using an all-metal Forester branded one.
> 
> The only part missing was the clutch cover but they sent one no prob (just via china post).
> 
> I'm using a 54mm top end from a random china ebay seller since I stripped the decomp valve threads in the Huztl one. The new one is at 0.025" squish with no gasket, just motoseal. Also a random china ebay carb since I was trying to rule that out (the new one says "Walbro"...).
> 
> I used a press for the crank install and took the seals out first, and used new china seals both times. I had to redo the crank install since I messed up the gasket the first time and I later decided that a motoseal-only crankcase didn't leave enough internal clearance (< 5 thou or touching on both sides). As a last step I used a mallet on the shaft along with appropriate inside shims to make sure there was no preload on the bearings and get it fully centered. For press tools I just needed a piece of 3/4" iron pipe and a couple identical-length pieces of 5/8" steel rod. I used harbor freight blue loctite on the outer walls of the seals.
> 
> My china seals pass vac and pressure tests fine (for now). If you order a MityVac don't get it through eBay. I had an issue with the gauge not showing vac and the manufacturer was no help. Finally fixed it myself by slamming it hard against a table which somehow reset the needle.
> 
> My fuel line was leaking so I replaced it with tygon. I also used a utility knife to remove mold ridges on the elbow on top of the tank. The gas cap leaked so I got an OEM, but it doesn't seem any nicer. I still have to use a screwdriver to get it tight enough.
> 
> I was so excited to get the saw running that I throttled it a little with the chain brake on and melted the clutch eclip. The Stihl tech at the dealer suggested I get a new washer too and I think it was worth $3 for the washer. The chinese one is thin and stamped but the OEM one is thick and machined. Probably not a common failure point I guess.
> 
> I picked up a Huztl 070 preassembled on cyber monday since I wasn't sure if the 660 would ever run and I already had the Huztl 36" mill. I've only cut ten 20" slabs but it's working fine. I may try the 660 out with the mill but the 070 is pretty nice to use. I got a 42" bar to go with the 070. I guess the 660 might cut faster but get hotter. Even just considering the pitch/sound freq of the 070 vs the 660 I might want to stick with the 070 for milling.
> 
> I kinda want a 361 kit next...


If you do plan on working the ms660 in the mill run it as rich as it will let you but not so rich that it becomes a dog and have fun.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> A trick I use is to copy and paste the number into Google and it will give you the low down


Well all I can get from the tracking is that its in transit. Uugg


----------



## Bedford T

Not that you need to worry over it but sometimes I use different tools. Like if it is overseas and it gets handed off over here to let's say to ups. I use aftership to get to New York and then call the shipper and get the second tracking number for ups and then I can see it again. Lotta work but I hate waiting. Lol maybe next week for sure. 

I got 10 days of rain coming here. I mentioned I hate waiting, same thing while I wait on the sunshine,.....


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Well all I can get from the tracking is that its in transit. Uugg


what are you using to sharpen your chains? i been just re buying chain and recently got more. i am to the point i need to get something and i think i should buy one of those 2n1 pferd cs-x. i would need all four sizes big and small 3/8, .325 and the .404. i dont see another option since i want it to be quick and easy. re buying the chain is quick and easy too, lol

i was at the dealer today. they had their pressure washers out. the rb600 and rb800 are very nice.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> what are you using to sharpen your chains? i been just re buying chain and recently got more. i am to the point i need to get something and i think i should buy one of those 2n1 pferd cs-x. i would need all four sizes big and small 3/8, .325 and the .404. i dont see another option since i want it to be quick and easy. re buying the chain is quick and easy too, lol
> 
> i was at the dealer today. they had their pressure washers out. the rb600 and rb800 are very nice.


Lol. Sorry for the late reply just took a little nap well it's coming from Texas so I think it will most likely get here Monday. And what I use for filling my chains is by hand for the most part but when i have the time I use a Husqvarna jig to help make the all the teeth more uniform. And a standard depth gage to set the guides where I like them. But I would like to get a electric chain grinder some day because I do have some silvi ground chains and those babies throw the chips when sharps


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> what are you using to sharpen your chains? i been just re buying chain and recently got more. i am to the point i need to get something and i think i should buy one of those 2n1 pferd cs-x. i would need all four sizes big and small 3/8, .325 and the .404. i dont see another option since i want it to be quick and easy. re buying the chain is quick and easy too, lol
> 
> i was at the dealer today. they had their pressure washers out. the rb600 and rb800 are very nice.


And FYI to bad you live so far away because i could teach you how to sharpen up those chains at first it can be a bit tasking but one's you get used to it it go's faster for you .


----------



## geekamole

TreeJoe said:


> You brought out something I thought about posting on. I went with the the1chainsawguy. I watched those others guys videos, I tried them they were not my taste. I was looking more for a professional approach and well thought out presentation and his videos provided that. The old guy spends way to much time imparting wisdom I don't need. In fact there are no videos on the 070 that come even close to the1chainsawguy. Tips and tricks not available. The old guy, I saw him take an idea and use it and I can't forgive him for that. His videos are not clear. the1chainsawguy took the time to do it right. If you read he was the guy that found and provided the actual manual and the guy even has a website to give you information. He takes the kits very seriously. Seems like you had a rough go. The help you got was not much help was it? lol I did not even know HF had loctite.
> 
> I finally built a 660 and a 070 and I followed kit guys advice and had zero problems because he told you about the problems and how to handle them. I_t might be true that people are more comformatble listening to people who they think are more like them rather than how good a job they do, I notice he never appears on camera so I am not sure about that. I really like that he has a website, no ads, just info to help total strangers.
> 
> to you kit gut don't let this go to your head keep trying to improve, you should show more than your bald head_



No intention of knocking Bedford T's video series or really endorsing anything else; I haven't watched most of Bedford's, but I think they came out after my initial assembly. Afleetcommand is long-winded but I find him a little interesting since he's built so many kits and has done some crude statistics on them. Main point of watching the bolt-for-bolt was to distinguish what the parts were. Most of the other stuff I used came from threads/googling. Maybe somebody could have suggested my final decomp solution but for me, for some reason it was more of a personal challenge to discover it on my own (or at least without spamming every chainsaw forum); also the behavior of my saw seems different from any other build I've read about (my main reason for posting here). Using the 070 actually gave me a hint since its decomp button is so different.

It was a rough go, but I think it was worth it because I learned a lot in the process of debugging the issues. Definitely a rewarding experience.

No ads on my personal website either (my username .com)


----------



## Bedford T

geekamole said:


> No intention of knocking Bedford T's video series or really endorsing anything else; I haven't watched most of Bedford's, but I think they came out after my initial assembly. Afleetcommand is long-winded but I find him a little interesting since he's built so many kits and has done some crude statistics on them. Main point of watching the bolt-for-bolt was to distinguish what the parts were. Most of the other stuff I used came from threads/googling. Maybe somebody could have suggested my final decomp solution but for me, for some reason it was more of a personal challenge to discover it on my own (or at least without spamming every chainsaw forum); also the behavior of my saw seems different from any other build I've read about (my main reason for posting here). Using the 070 actually gave me a hint since its decomp button is so different.
> 
> It was a rough go, but I think it was worth it because I learned a lot in the process of debugging the issues. Definitely a rewarding experience.
> 
> No ads on my personal website either (my username .com)


I did not feel knocked. I even missed your post. Phone screen and me have troubles. Great you are running. That fella at some point said this place was a soap opera. For your clarity I was in the group of first builders. Before the other guys you like. I was actually the guy that got huztl to sell the kits in the US. I am happy other people joined in. That was my desire from the start. So people like you could learn if they wanted. Walt's videos were terrible. You could see he did it. But not how. That's when I started making video, his likely improved but I never needed to watch another so unsure. I am not a video star and never wanted to be. Just wanted other guys and girls to build their kits and talk about them. I guess I was successful. Problem is they don't try hard anymore to provide everything in the kits and good guailty. That decomp valve sux. I paid for a Stihl one and will every time. So welcome


----------



## gchamber

Welp. Got the saw back together. Had it running well. Cutting well for about 15 minutes. Then shut off on me. Pull the cord and can feel little compression. Cylinder head bolts are on and tight still. Looking in the muffler port, the cylinder seems pretty dry. Which is surprising to me running 40:1. 

So I suspect Bedford is correct and I will need to order a new case, crank and seal kit. I'll do a post mortem this week to see if I can find anything else that might have gone wrong.


----------



## gchamber

This doesn't look promising.


----------



## Bedford T

gchamber said:


> Welp. Got the saw back together. Had it running well. Cutting well for about 15 minutes. Then shut off on me. Pull the cord and can feel little compression. Cylinder head bolts are on and tight still. Looking in the muffler port, the cylinder seems pretty dry. Which is surprising to me running 40:1.
> 
> So I suspect Bedford is correct and I will need to order a new case, crank and seal kit. I'll do a post mortem this week to see if I can find anything else that might have gone wrong.


Dude I am so sorry it worked out like that. Did you see the fault analysis post that was made. Helps you understand what you discover.

Don't shoot me but you should invest in the equipment to test it. You have proof it's necessary. Am telling ya you got a 40% chance of a repeat without it.

What State do you live, maybe you are close to someone who could test it for you. You could ship it to me and I would test it for you but you would likely cost the same in shipping as the three items you need to buy. Buy it means you are in control here forward.

If you need help we are here


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> This doesn't look promising. View attachment 632142


You were running way to lean by the looks of that ouch did you tack it to see what you were running at wide open??


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Dude I am so sorry it worked out like that. Did you see the fault analysis post that was made. Helps you understand what you discover.
> 
> Don't shoot me but you should invest in the equipment to test it. You have proof it's necessary. Am telling ya you got a 40% chance of a repeat without it.
> 
> What State do you live, maybe you are close to someone who could test it for you. You could ship it to me and I would test it for you but you would likely cost the same in shipping as the three items you need to buy. Buy it means you are in control here forward.
> 
> If you need help we are here


Like Bedford T seed you should invest in a pressure vac tester that will help you from major headaches thats for sure sorry bud I've seen this happen a lot even with oem saw's it's a real bummer when it happens.


----------



## Bedford T

gchamber said:


> This doesn't look promising. View attachment 632142


Check for a pm. I sent it in a zip to you


----------



## MG porting

And this gets back to the carbs they are jetted why to lean aspeshily if there are no air leeks and people are still running there saw's at oem specks it's a learning curve that's for sure.


----------



## gchamber

I got the zip. Couldn't open it on my phone though. I'll have to check on a computer. I even sealed the cylinder gasket so I'm not sure where I might have been getting an air leak from to run that lean. 

I think when I get the new case and crank I'm just going to use the 54mm cylinder. Try to avoid as many issues as possible from having to clearance the new case. 

I should be able to reuse just about everything else on the saw right?


----------



## Bedford T

I think, the carbs are time bombs, been changing mine out. You can burn one up with no air leak. Carb not working right, jet to small, air leak. All just fuel related. Then you have the cylinder pitfalls. 

I see good people not understanding the importance of those things until it's too late. Guess that needs to be taught in saw builders school that is included in each saw. Or just do what HL does. Don't build a saw with this kit and you can't have problems you can't solve. I don't like that one, but it works lol


----------



## Bedford T

gchamber said:


> I got the zip. Couldn't open it on my phone though. I'll have to check on a computer. I even sealed the cylinder gasket so I'm not sure where I might have been getting an air leak from to run that lean.
> 
> I think when I get the new case and crank I'm just going to use the 54mm cylinder. Try to avoid as many issues as possible from having to clearance the new case.
> 
> I should be able to reuse just about everything else on the saw right?


Yes sir, that's a plan. Consider the fuel circuit as well


----------



## gchamber

Is there a way to test the carb for not flowing enough? It didn't seem that dry when it broke cylinder bolts. So I am really curious as to where my air leak was coming from. I had the jets set at 1 turn out, per stihl spec. 

I'll go down to the local stihl dealer and order a new gasket kit tomorrow. And order a new crank and case from huztl. Does anyone know if HL supply has shorter shipping times? Or anywhere else to get those parts without waiting 3 weeks for shipping? 

I'll have to look at testing options for a leak down and pressure test. Not looking to break the bank but also not looking to build this saw a fourth time lol


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> I got the zip. Couldn't open it on my phone though. I'll have to check on a computer. I even sealed the cylinder gasket so I'm not sure where I might have been getting an air leak from to run that lean.
> 
> I think when I get the new case and crank I'm just going to use the 54mm cylinder. Try to avoid as many issues as possible from having to clearance the new case.
> 
> I should be able to reuse just about everything else on the saw right?


Yes you should but fyi i just put a 54mm on a case and the transfer port still was touching the case so I'm asking every one please check and make sure that you're cilinders don't have clearance issues its something that can be fixed before you get to far in to the build. 


gchamber said:


> I got the zip. Couldn't open it on my phone though. I'll have to check on a computer. I even sealed the cylinder gasket so I'm not sure where I might have been getting an air leak from to run that lean.
> 
> I think when I get the new case and crank I'm just going to use the 54mm cylinder. Try to avoid as many issues as possible from having to clearance the new case.
> 
> I should be able to reuse just about everything else on the saw right?


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> Is there a way to test the carb for not flowing enough? It didn't seem that dry when it broke cylinder bolts. So I am really curious as to where my air leak was coming from. I had the jets set at 1 turn out, per stihl spec.
> 
> I'll go down to the local stihl dealer and order a new gasket kit tomorrow. And order a new crank and case from huztl. Does anyone know if HL supply has shorter shipping times? Or anywhere else to get those parts without waiting 3 weeks for shipping?
> 
> I'll have to look at testing options for a leak down and pressure test. Not looking to break the bank but also not looking to build this saw a fourth time lol


I would like to know what is your altitude where you live??


----------



## gchamber

MG porting said:


> I would like to know what is your altitude where you live??


686' according to google. Hixson, TN


----------



## geekamole

I happen to live in East Ridge near Camp Jordan, and already have the stuff to pressure/vac test 660s, so you're welcome to come over if that appeals to you.


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> 686' according to google. Hixson, TN


Ok you're pretty close to the same as here and you running there carb and you had the high speed set one full tern out. Not to be mean to you I just want you to learn from this and please don't take this in a bad way but if you were running there carb you were running it way to lean it can happen. My bet that saw was screemem . You can get a tack fairly cheap


----------



## gchamber

geekamole said:


> I happen to live in East Ridge near Camp Jordan, and already have the stuff to pressure/vac test 660s, so you're welcome to come over if that appeals to you.


That would be awesome! I'll send you a message when I get the new case together and hopefully we can get together to test it. Do you have the parts to block off the intake and exhaust ports?


----------



## gchamber

MG porting said:


> Ok you're pretty close to the same as here and you running there carb and you had the high speed set one full tern out. Not to be mean to you I just want you to learn from this and please don't take this in a bad way but if you were running there carb you were running it way to lean it can happen. My bet that saw was screemem . You can get a tack fairly cheap


Please, I'd like to learn as not to have a repeat performance. But I thought it was spec for the jets to be one full turn out? I didn't think it was screaming by ear.


----------



## geekamole

Ok, sounds good. Yeah, I have a way to block off the intake and exhaust. Also some decomp plugs (although they seem to take a lot of torque to stop leaking, so they might need a different gasket washer, which shouldn't be hard).


----------



## gchamber

geekamole said:


> Ok, sounds good. Yeah, I have a way to block off the intake and exhaust. Also some decomp plugs (although they seem to take a lot of torque to stop leaking, so they might need a different gasket washer, which shouldn't be hard).


I got OEM decompression plug.


----------



## geekamole

Also I have a spare carb that you can try.


----------



## gchamber

geekamole said:


> Also I have a spare carb that you can try.


I'd be curious to test the current case and jug I've got that is toast. Just to see if I've got an air leak or if it was a fuel delivery issue. Maybe we can meet up one night this week and test it?


----------



## Bedford T

buy from @Ozhoo he's here. he will ship it quick. farmertec gaskets are good quality. i have no problems with them

the stihl gasket kit will have seals. i think its 35$.

i was just looking on ebay. they have the mityvac 8500 for 66.48. you could resell it here and the next builder could buy and repeat


----------



## Marco

Bedford T said:


> I think, the carbs are time bombs, been changing mine out. You can burn one up with no air leak. Carb not working right, jet to small, air leak. All just fuel related. Then you have the cylinder pitfalls.
> 
> I see good people not understanding the importance of those things until it's too late. Guess that needs to be taught in saw builders school that is included in each saw. Or just do what HL does. Don't build a saw with this kit and you can't have problems you can't solve. I don't like that one, but it works lol


You really don't like them HL kits. I liked that I got one from a place that spoke Engrish within 2 time zones.


----------



## Bedford T

Marco said:


> You really don't like them HL kits. I liked that I got one from a place that spoke Engrish within 2 time zones.


I was quoting from their website. has nothing to do with the kit. its important to use context.




i wonder what the jets measure on the 660 carb? i have a bag full of them just no way to measure. everything aftermarket is off in measure a little bit. can you afford that on a epa sized jet?


----------



## gchamber

Bedford T said:


> buy from @Ozhoo he's here. he will ship it quick. farmertec gaskets are good quality. i have no problems with them
> 
> the stihl gasket kit will have seals. i think its 35$.
> 
> i was just looking on ebay. they have the mityvac 8500 for 66.48. you could resell it here and the next builder could buy and repeat



Ozhoo was nice enough to send me the cylinder head bolts. I'll contact him about the case and crank. I bought the OEM gasket kit the first time around. I'd like to do the same this time around. How do you feel about the farmertec crank seals?


----------



## Bedford T

gchamber said:


> Ozhoo was nice enough to send me the cylinder head bolts. I'll contact him about the case and crank. I bought the OEM gasket kit the first time around. I'd like to do the same this time around. How do you feel about the farmertec crank seals?


Did you see my post on that kit. They are included you don't need FarmerTec. I use their seals. Oem Everytime you can afford it and FarmerTec everyother time for me. Except carbs, oem from now on. What we can't see can hurt us.


----------



## Marco

I guess, warning that you may not get this to work is better than you be big man, buy now.


----------



## geekamole

Bedford T said:


> buy from @Ozhoo he's here. he will ship it quick. farmertec gaskets are good quality. i have no problems with them
> 
> the stihl gasket kit will have seals. i think its 35$.
> 
> i was just looking on ebay. they have the mityvac 8500 for 66.48. you could resell it here and the next builder could buy and repeat



I bought my 8500 on eBay from seller "sarafankit2009" and when it had issues a couple months later they refused to take it back, and MityVac refused to honor a warranty (working now after slamming on desk, though). Buyer beware.


----------



## Bedford T

geekamole said:


> I bought my 8500 on eBay from seller "sarafankit2009" and when it had issues a couple months later they refused to take it back, and MityVac refused to honor a warranty (working now after slamming on desk, though). Buyer beware.


We always need to be aware. How often do companies offer to meet a warranty obligation? Depends. The extra warranty is our only recourse on eBay. Did Mityvac say they were not authorized? Caveat emptor


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I was quoting from their website. has nothing to do with the kit. its important to use context.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i wonder what the jets measure on the 660 carb? i have a bag full of them just no way to measure. everything aftermarket is off in measure a little bit. can you afford that on a epa sized jet?


Most of the jets are. . 62 which we both know that's way to small considering the ms460 comes stalk with a . 70 and I believe when i modified my jet i think my jet is pretty close to that now. Lol and what a world of difference that made.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Most of the jets are. . 62 which we both know that's way to small considering the ms460 comes stalk with a . 70 and I believe when i modified my jet i think my jet is pretty close to that now. Lol and what a world of difference that made.


Did you actually measure it? I wonder if it might actually be smaller than .62. That was my point. I have one new in the box I will get it measured or at least try.


----------



## geekamole

Bedford T said:


> We always need to be aware. How often do companies offer to meet a warranty obligation? Depends. The extra warranty is our only recourse on eBay. Did Mityvac say they were not authorized? Caveat emptor


Yeah, MityVac said they weren't an authorized dealer. Also the eBay seller claimed it was brand new, so a couple bucks saved off Amazon (haven't looked at the price there) probably wasn't worth it.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Did you actually measure it? I wonder if it might actually be smaller than .62. That was my point. I have one new in the box I will get it measured or at least try.


I bought a oem one and took the farmertec one out of the carb and with the jet reamer I tride both of them on it one at a time and they were both the same but all jets can very well be a little bit off.


----------



## Marco

If a saw is running to good do you all think you are just awesome because it is cutting like a lightsaber or does it cross your mind that it might be running a touch lean?


----------



## gchamber

So looking at OEM options for carbs I'm finding a few different walbro models. The WJ-65, WJ-67, WJ-69 and WJ-76. I see the WJ-76 has a bigger jet but also seems too cheap to be right. Only about $38. The WJ-67 is priced on baileys for $172. 

Can anyone shed some insight on this?


----------



## Bedford T

gchamber said:


> So looking at OEM options for carbs I'm finding a few different walbro models. The WJ-65, WJ-67, WJ-69 and WJ-76. I see the WJ-76 has a bigger jet but also seems too cheap to be right. Only about $38. The WJ-67 is priced on baileys for $172.
> 
> Can anyone shed some insight on this?


I will show you the one to buy. It's the 76. It's actually the Stihl carb. I think it was less than 60. It will be later today before I can get the info. It comes from a walbro dealer. Fully tuneable

MG bought a tolliston recently. I think he said he paid about 55$


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I will show you the one to buy. It's the 76. It's actually the Stihl carb. I think it was less than 60. It will be later today before I can get the info. It comes from a walbro dealer. Fully tuneable
> 
> MG bought a tolliston recently. I think he said he paid about 55$


Yep and I'm hopping it's in my mailbox today. Lol


----------



## William Prophett

gchamber said:


> So looking at OEM options for carbs I'm finding a few different walbro models. The WJ-65, WJ-67, WJ-69 and WJ-76. I see the WJ-76 has a bigger jet but also seems too cheap to be right. Only about $38. The WJ-67 is priced on baileys for $172.
> 
> Can anyone shed some insight on this?


I assume the difference in the carbs is the jet size. The Walbro number corresponds to the size of the jet. Different carbs would be used in the same saw at different altitudes. So, the WJ 76 comes with the .076 thou jet orifice. Seems like the option for sea level. You guys realize that you can get a set of hole gauges to check the diameter of the holes right? The fuel flow is adjustable regardless of the jet orifice size as well. You can drill out the jet orifice using the proper size bit and your fingers to turn it. After drilling out the hole, make sure there is a chamfer on the input side of the jet. Again, a bigger bit and just spin it with your fingers... Only takes a minute. Ithe hard part will be finding the .076 bit...


----------



## MG porting

William Prophett said:


> I assume the difference in the carbs is the jet size. The Walbro number corresponds to the size of the jet. Different carbs would be used in the same saw at different altitudes. So, the WJ 76 comes with the .076 thou jet orifice. Seems like the option for sea level. You guys realize that you can get a set of hole gauges to check the diameter of the holes right? The fuel flow is adjustable regardless of the jet orifice size as well. You can drill out the jet orifice using the proper size bit and your fingers to turn it. After drilling out the hole, make sure there is a chamfer on the input side of the jet. Again, a bigger bit and just spin it with your fingers... Only takes a minute. Ithe hard part will be finding the .076 bit...


 i used a jet reamer to get the jet size i wanted they work best for small engine carbs.


----------



## MG porting

Well Bedford T my carb is here but luck would have it. 
 and this is what I got for $55 bucks.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Well Bedford T my carb is here but luck would have it. View attachment 632365
> and this is what I got for $55 bucks.


Dang, sent in an envelope right? Do you have recourse? Buy on eBay?


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Dang, sent in an envelope right? Do you have recourse? Buy on eBay?


Lol. In a box and a plastic baggy thing yes I bought on ebay Im definitely going to send a complain but check it out now good thing I had a carb that I was keeping for parts it pays to not throw things away sometimes.


----------



## MG porting

MG porting said:


> Lol. In a box and a plastic baggy thing yes I bought on ebay Im definitely going to send a complain but check it out now good thing I had a carb that I was keeping for parts it pays to not throw things away sometimes. View attachment 632403


Here's something else i did today to late to send it back now. Lol. It's a good carb so I'm going to keep it. So theres other tricks of the trade not to many people do but for me doing stuff like this just makes me feel better. 
I polish the choke side of the carb and took a ber out of the hump that's in the center of the carb body as well.


----------



## MG porting

And tomorrow i will be using the jet reamer to open up the jet its to small it is also a .62 or .65 jet. But it's just like the walbro wj carbs you can change out the jet.


----------



## Bedford T

@MG porting how did you re-attach? Polishing is likely a great idea


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> @MG porting how did you re-attach? Polishing is likely a great idea


Those nipple fittings are just a prest fit so you can take them out and they are tight but it can be done I might make a short video for you if you like but it would be a sell phone video it might be ruff. Lol. Polishing the choke side of the carb isn't to tuff just takes some paishonts.


----------



## Beetlejuice

MG porting said:


> Those nipple fittings are just a prest fit so you can take them out and they are tight but it can be done I might make a short video for you if you like but it would be a sell phone video it might be ruff. Lol. Polishing the choke side of the carb isn't to tuff just takes some paishonts.


Paishonts??? PATIENCE!! Come on people, juss taint dat tuf


----------



## MG porting

Beetlejuice said:


> Paishonts??? PATIENCE!! Come on people, juss taint dat tuf


Lol


----------



## MG porting

MG porting said:


> Lol


Like i told Bedford T my spelling sucks so be patient with me please.


----------



## Beetlejuice

MG porting said:


> Like i told Bedford T my spelling sucks so be patient with me please.


I not trying to make enemies and most of the time I let it all slide, but that was just too easy.. Please don't be offended.. If I was on the rampage I wouldn't have a friend left.. AND, that includes my wife. She couldn't spell CAT, even if I spot her the C and T..just keep doing what you do on this thread, because I'm learning things, and that's all bottom line.. Cheers, K. Please accept my apologies


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Like i told Bedford T my spelling sucks so be patient with me please.


I can't spell either. My phone and Google help but sometimes it gets it all screwed up and changes it incorrectly and I don't catch it that drives me bonkers. 

He knew that you meant. Lol

Hey, I can make change. Now that comes in handy


----------



## MG porting

Beetlejuice said:


> I not trying to make enemies and most of the time I let it all slide, but that was just too easy.. Please don't be offended.. If I was on the rampage I wouldn't have a friend left.. AND, that includes my wife. She couldn't spell CAT, even if I spot her the C and T..just keep doing what you do on this thread, because I'm learning things, and that's all bottom line.. Cheers, K. Please accept my apologies


Lol. Its all good.


----------



## Bedford T

Beetlejuice said:


> I not trying to make enemies and most of the time I let it all slide, but that was just too easy.. Please don't be offended.. If I was on the rampage I wouldn't have a friend left.. AND, that includes my wife. She couldn't spell CAT, even if I spot her the C and T..just keep doing what you do on this thread, because I'm learning things, and that's all bottom line.. Cheers, K. Please accept my apologies


So you did NOT marry her because she was a good speller? I married mine because she had them bumps I like. I felt a dictionary would be ok to keep on the table


----------



## Beetlejuice

My wife has worms, and I just love to fish


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I can't spell either. My phone and Google help but sometimes it gets it all screwed up and changes it incorrectly and I don't catch it that drives me bonkers.
> 
> He knew that you meant. Lol
> 
> Hey, I can make change. Now that comes in handy


Lol. I made a short video for you so now you can change out broke fittings on your carbs if you ever have to. Well maybe not on the video it won't let me download for some reason. Lol


Bedford T said:


> I can't spell either. My phone and Google help but sometimes it gets it all screwed up and changes it incorrectly and I don't catch it that drives me bonkers.
> 
> He knew that you meant. Lol
> 
> Hey, I can make change. Now that comes in handy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> So you did NOT marry her because she was a good speller? I married mine because she had them bumps I like. I felt a dictionary would be ok to keep on the table


Thats funny!!!


----------



## MG porting

For some crazy reason I can't download the video I'm guessing it might be because I'm using my sell phone. Sorry about that Bedford T I tried. Lol


----------



## Beetlejuice

I have my moments.. You guys are fun.. Speaking of carbs..is there anything I can do to get the varnish out of a Tillotson carb short of rebuilding. Kit is $25 bucks.. It's an HL series


----------



## Beetlejuice

MG porting said:


> For some crazy reason I can't download the video I'm guessing it might be because I'm using my sell phone. Sorry about that Bedford T I tried. Lol


Cell... Must write it 10 times


----------



## MG porting

Beetlejuice said:


> I have my moments.. You guys are fun.. Speaking of carbs..is there anything I can do to get the varnish out of a Tillotson carb short of rebuilding. Kit is $25 bucks.. It's an HL series


Is it varnished on the inside or outside?


----------



## Bedford T

Beetlejuice said:


> I have my moments.. You guys are fun.. Speaking of carbs..is there anything I can do to get the varnish out of a Tillotson carb short of rebuilding. Kit is $25 bucks.. It's an HL series


Carbs are something I am still learning. If it we're mine I would want it to be clean too. Soaking it sounds like the way to do it. In what ??

Then I would want a new kit just because . That's just me. There is some real experience in carbs around here to help


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Carbs are something I am still learning. If it we're mine I would want it to be clean too. Soaking it sounds like the way to do it. In what ??
> 
> Then I would want a new kit just because . That's just me. There is some real experience in carbs around here to help





Bedford T said:


> Carbs are something I am still learning. If it we're mine I would want it to be clean too. Soaking it sounds like the way to do it. In what ??
> 
> Then I would want a new kit just because . That's just me. There is some real experience in carbs around here to help


Like Bedford T seed carb kit is must to be safe. You can tare it apart and soke it in simple green and rinse it out really good with break clean.


----------



## Beetlejuice

The gunk is inside.. Not getting juice through the carb.. Off a 60's Mac 44..


----------



## MG porting

Beetlejuice said:


> The gunk is inside.. Not getting juice through the carb.. Off a 60's Mac 44..


Yea I would pole it apart and soke it in simple green for 30min just to be safe then check it and if still ugly do it some more.


----------



## Beetlejuice

Thanks for the help.. I'm on it


----------



## MG porting

Beetlejuice said:


> Thanks for the help.. I'm on it


Keep us posted and we can all help you in one way or another. Lol


----------



## MG porting

Well ive got some good news on the tillotson instead of modifying the jet first I did some research on the hs-320a so i decided to put it on the saw today and I'm glad i did the jetting is perfect. The carb settings are 3/4 out from bottom on the low setting and just under one full turn out frome bottom on the high setting. That's as good as gold if you ask me. So I definitely recommend the tillotson hs-320a. Bedford T you might like to try one for yourself.


----------



## Bedford T

That is good information. 

If I need another I will keep it in mind. I think that and the walbro WJ-76 are the ones we should use on our kits. 

For me I wanted to bolt on a big jet and the wj-76 did it for me. You took a different route. We both did good.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> That is good information.
> 
> If I need another I will keep it in mind. I think that and the walbro WJ-76 are the ones we should use on our kits.
> 
> For me I wanted to bolt on a big jet and the wj-76 did it for me. You took a different route. We both did good.


Yes sir and I ported my cylinder so I'm really surprised that on this carb I didnt have to reajet it for more fuel I'm very pleased. Now time to up grade the vent and fuel lines.


----------



## Bedford T

@MG porting so what did you find on the jet size? i just looked again and can not find it. I did a backwards search in stihl docs and it does not list the HS-320A. That means nothing other than my resource was zero. so i went back about 3 search pages and still found nothing.

Stihl says the WJ-76 it says is .74 fixed jet which i knew. The WJ-67 is .64. The WJ-69 is .62 So the question is where does the the HS-320A fit in with the Stihl lineup. I want to include the info. I have that walbo, tillotson dealer i can ask if needed


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> @MG porting so what did you find on the jet size? i just looked again and can not find it. I did a backwards search in stihl docs and it does not list the HS-320A. That means nothing other than my resource was zero. so i went back about 3 search pages and still found nothing.
> 
> Stihl says the WJ-76 it says is .74 fixed jet which i knew. The WJ-67 is .64. The WJ-69 is .62 So the question is where does the the HS-320A fit in with the Stihl lineup. I want to include the info. I have that walbo, tillotson dealer i can ask if needed


I found out from a saw builder over my state that thought me how to porte and he told me that the tillonton carb was jetted on the large side like the wj-76 but every time I asked him if he new what jet did they put in it I got no answer so all I can say is it's got to be a good size jet but at the same time he told me that it has a smaller vancherrie sorry for the spelling than the wj carbs he told me that it's a good carb to modify but he also stated he's a walbro fan. Lol. It's hard to get a solid answer from him still of witch one he would run though. Got to love them old dog's. Lol and he still keeps telling me youll finger it out. So I'm not much help other that it's got to be close to a . 74 or .70.


----------



## Bedford T

Ok I will send a email and see what I can find out and let you know.

Again based on how it tuned it's great for sure but it would be nice to know for comparsion


----------



## MG porting

And just for fun i have a 064 that's heavily modded on the ports and it has the wj-76 although it is a smaller bore the carb settings are the same on the low setting and the high setting so i have to believe the jetting on both are close if not the same I could check them with the jet reamer to see I just might do that just for you Bedford T.


----------



## Bedford T

The folks @ http://mittysupply.com have contacted the manufacturer and we should hear back in a day or so. A shout out to them.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> The folks @ http://mittysupply.com have contacted the manufacturer and we should hear back in a day or so. A shout out to them.


Nice that will be great.


----------



## Marco

I had Bigman out with HL MS660, he thinks it might beat a 80 Jonsred.


----------



## Marco

We are still tuning.


----------



## MG porting

Marco said:


> We are still tuning.





Marco said:


> I had Bigman out with HL MS660, he thinks it might beat a 80 Jonsred.





Marco said:


> I had Bigman out with HL MS660, he thinks it might beat a 80 Jonsred.


Well in theory it should ms660 is 90cc and the Jonsred 80 is well Lol 80cc.


----------



## Marco

Jonnyred 80 dragons fear.


----------



## Marco

A 80/81 Jonny is like trying to nut a tomcat in a workshoe that is to small.


----------



## Marco

Most of you candystripes couldn't start a 111 Jonny, so I made it seam possible.


----------



## Marco

and really does it matter, I haven't had the dreaded screech, clunk or bang. Maybe I put mine together right.


----------



## Beetlejuice

Sounds like there's a Jonsered tech in the room.. I have a 2094.. It's old, but I'm older. When I pull the starter it seem/feels like it binds up. New rope but am afraid I might break it.. I pull the plug and it rotates just as smooth as ya please.. My first Jonny, and unless I get this figured out, my last.. Thanks, K


----------



## Bedford T

The HS-320A is a .65 according to the manufacturer. That means it's manufactured for the US. So it's a hair larger than the WJ-67 at .64

This walbro as I mentioned before with the higher jetting and the Stihl branding I am thinking it comes from Brazil.

MG I know its tuned but if you ever need it a walbro jet will work in it


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> The HS-320A is a .65 according to the manufacturer. That means it's manufactured for the US. So it's a hair larger than the WJ-67 at .64
> 
> This walbro as I mentioned before with the higher jetting and the Stihl branding I am thinking it comes from Brazil.
> 
> MG I know its tuned but if you ever need it a walbro jet will work in it


Yea that's strange I'm not sure how my carb tuned with that small of a jet compared to farmertec carb and that one i had to open up the jet in a lot to get it back to speck. Humm. I'm going to be thinking on this one for a while. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

I was not trying to lessen your satisfaction. I maintain a website as a central location for other kit builders to get information on the kits. And I felt having all this documented was important. I have guys spending 10-15 minutes looking around my website and 50% of them come back and back. Merchandisers would kill for that. But there are guys all over the world interested. Just so you know, no harm intended on that.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I was not trying to lessen your satisfaction. I maintain a website as a central location for other kit builders to get information on the kits. And I felt having all this documented was important. I have guys spending 10-15 minutes looking around my website and 50% of them come back and back. Merchandisers would kill for that. But there are guys all over the world interested. Just so you know, no harm intended on that.


OH no I didn't take it as a bad thing at all I really appreciate what you did. Lol it just makes me want to see what the difference between the two carbs now other than we both know that one is made in Japan and the other is made in Ireland.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> OH no I didn't take it as a bad thing at all I really appreciate what you did. Lol it just makes me want to see what the difference between the two carbs now other than we both know that one is made in Japan and the other is made in Ireland.


The manufacturer used to have to make them per what ever the Environmental requirements were for the country they are sold in. With some exceptions like if a carb was imported from Brazil where there are no protections and no chance of cooperation and I think that's why mine is branded Stihl. I am unsure of what protection the EU has which Ireland is member. I think that's the difference between the two.


----------



## fulladirt

I built up one of these kits and had pretty good luck with it for 4 tanks of fuel, then I go to take out the spark plug dam if there wasn't a booger on the threads that broke off the threads of the cylinder. I got a NGK spark plug and a Raisman cylinder to replace it got it back together and now have about 10 more tanks of fuel through it. Jeez it pulls HARD with a 24" bar, never had a saw this big before but wow! 
Wanted to thank the contributors of this thread and others, I've been lurking around reading a lot but held off on posting till I had some run time on it.
Took a couple pics while running it the other day see if I can get them to load on here,


----------



## MG porting

tprepd1 said:


> I built up one of these kits and had pretty good luck with it for 4 tanks of fuel, then I go to take out the spark plug dam if there wasn't a booger on the threads that broke off the threads of the cylinder. I got a NGK spark plug and a Raisman cylinder to replace it got it back together and now have about 10 more tanks of fuel through it. Jeez it pulls HARD with a 24" bar, never had a saw this big before but wow!
> Wanted to thank the contributors of this thread and others, I've been lurking around reading a lot but held off on posting till I had some run time on it.
> Took a couple pics while running it the other day see if I can get them to load on here,


Very nice in deed.


----------



## Bedford T

Man she said she only had one wj76 left. But got plenty more coming but it will be March. She also said if we need other carbs like she is getting a hd-15 for my 440. Zama, walbro and tolliston at our finger tips. I told her we was hungry!


----------



## Beetlejuice

tprepd1 said:


> I built up one of these kits and had pretty good luck with it for 4 tanks of fuel, then I go to take out the spark plug dam if there wasn't a booger on the threads that broke off the threads of the cylinder. I got a NGK spark plug and a Raisman cylinder to replace it got it back together and now have about 10 more tanks of fuel through it. Jeez it pulls HARD with a 24" bar, never had a saw this big before but wow!
> Wanted to thank the contributors of this thread and others, I've been lurking around reading a lot but held off on posting till I had some run time on it.
> Took a couple pics while running it the other day see if I can get them to load on here,


very nice!! I know you've told us but I'm lazy. What model? I have an old 042 that's making sure my concrete floor doesn't float away, and you have me stoked. Needs to be rebuilt and upgraded anyway.. Cheers, K


----------



## hacksaw11111

"chain brake spring is flat out wrong so I ordered an oem spring before hand. "
Do you know the PN? Can the supplied one be made to work? thx


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Man she said she only had one wj76 left. But got plenty more coming but it will be March. She also said if we need other carbs like she is getting a hd-15 for my 440. Zama, walbro and tolliston at our finger tips. I told her we was hungry!


Nice I'm really thinking about getting a wj-76 can you save one for me I don't want to mess with the one that's in my 064 i just want to put side by side with the tillotson and run it on my ms660 just to see if i can tell a difference in the wood.  yes you can say im bored Bedford T. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

tprepd1 said:


> I built up one of these kits and had pretty good luck with it for 4 tanks of fuel, then I go to take out the spark plug dam if there wasn't a booger on the threads that broke off the threads of the cylinder. I got a NGK spark plug and a Raisman cylinder to replace it got it back together and now have about 10 more tanks of fuel through it. Jeez it pulls HARD with a 24" bar, never had a saw this big before but wow!
> Wanted to thank the contributors of this thread and others, I've been lurking around reading a lot but held off on posting till I had some run time on it.
> Took a couple pics while running it the other day see if I can get them to load on here,


Good job. It's quite an experience.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Nice I'm really thinking about getting a wj-76 can you save one for me I don't want to mess with the one that's in my 064 i just want to put side by side with the tillotson and run it on my ms660 just to see if i can tell a difference in the wood.  yes you can say im bored Bedford T. Lol


Go order it. Hit the buy button right now! Or just buy the jet from definitive Dave. About 8$. Nothing wrong with your carb, unless you want two. Do you know where to go?


----------



## Bedford T

hacksaw11111 said:


> "chain brake spring is flat out wrong so I ordered an oem spring before hand. "
> Do you know the PN? Can the supplied one be made to work? thx


No get the oem. All the part numbers are on my website.

Tension spring 1133 160 5500.

I think the one they screwed up in the past was for the ms440


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Go order it. Hit the buy button right now! Or just buy the jet from definitive Dave. About 8$. Nothing wrong with your carb, unless you want two. Do you know where to go?


No I don't Can you lend me another helping hand if you don't mind.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> No I don't Can you lend me another helping hand if you don't mind.


Check your pm


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T here's the old 064 some people love them some people hate them but i love it.


----------



## fulladirt

@Beetlejuice it's a 660. 54mm Raisman top end. Other than that and an oem wrist pin bearing, it's all straight out the box. With the lightweight 24" bar it's pretty manageable, I use it for limbing too.


----------



## Beetlejuice

I just watched The Chainsaw Guy on YouTube, and he had great things to say about the 660.. The saw he had on the bench had matching felling dogs to the left and right, (huge). Looked really ominous. Other than my little 170 with a 16" bar, everything else I run has at least a 20 incher.but all my stuff is older with a manual oiler override, so am able to put bigger bars on and not overheat or run dry at the end of the circuit. Thumb gets tired sometimes but love cutting the big rounds. Using a Homey 1050 till I get the 042 up and going. I've a C-72 Homey that's in various stages of disrepair. It's a back burner saw. Sometimes I think it's cheaper just to buy a new Stihl and have no worries.. Where's the fun in that? My 170 is new.. Close enough? Thanks for your time. I learn more stuff on this site.. Cheers, K


----------



## MG porting

And here's the farmertec. This photo I took before it was finished.


----------



## MG porting

MG porting said:


> And here's the farmertec. This photo I took before it was finished. View attachment 633479


Not really sure how all the emoges got put there Lol


----------



## carrbear

Bedford T said:


> Go order it. Hit the buy button right now! Or just buy the jet from definitive Dave. About 8$. Nothing wrong with your carb, unless you want two. Do you know where to go?





MG porting said:


> No I don't Can you lend me another helping hand if you don't mind.





Bedford T said:


> Check your pm



Others might like to know. Care to share the link ?


----------



## Huskydude70

Bedford, have you thought about making up your own kits and selling them? Maybe just the parts that are generally missing and preferred to use on the various Chinese kits? You could be the "Chainsaw kit for the Chinese chainsaw kit guy". Kits could include assortment of a.m. and oem parts


----------



## Marco

Huskydude70 said:


> Bedford, have you thought about making up your own kits and selling them? Maybe just the parts that are generally missing and preferred to use on the various Chinese kits? You could be the "Chainsaw kit for the Chinese chainsaw kit guy". Kits could include assortment of a.m. and oem parts


That would be a headache


----------



## Huskydude70

Marco said:


> That would be a headache


I think Bedford could get it done.


----------



## William Prophett

Huskydude70 said:


> I think Bedford could get it done.


The problem is price. I have a whole bunch of 660 parts lying around. This week I said "I wonder what it would cost me if I grabbed AM parts with free shipping to build another saw. I have a complete 54mm jug assembly, recoil starter, seal kit, chain adjuster, decomp, intake, all the rubber parts... I priced out the parts and couldn't beat the Huztl price for the whole kit and adding $100 for shipping. I didn't even price all the "best" parts that I would put on if money weren't an object... I will guarantee that if I bought "all" the parts that I "would" replace, it would be a $5-6 hundred dollar build.


----------



## Huskydude70

William Prophett said:


> The problem is price. I have a whole bunch of 660 parts lying around. This week I said "I wonder what it would cost me if I grabbed AM parts with free shipping to build another saw. I have a complete 54mm jug assembly, recoil starter, seal kit, chain adjuster, decomp, intake, all the rubber parts... I priced out the parts and couldn't beat the Huztl price for the whole kit and adding $100 for shipping. I didn't even price all the "best" parts that I would put on if money weren't an object... I will guarantee that if I bought "all" the parts that I "would" replace, it would be a $5-6 hundred dollar build.


All I'm saying is that when people on here are buying these kits, there are usually parts that are missing. Also parts that are commonly replaced with oem parts or better aftermarket parts. So he could have a kit premade for your Chinese kit with all those parts.


----------



## William Prophett

Huskydude70 said:


> All I'm saying is that when people on here are buying these kits, there are usually parts that are missing. Also parts that are commonly replaced with oem parts or better aftermarket parts. So he could have a kit premade for your Chinese kit with all those parts.


I agree. That was my initial intent... Got pricey real quick... I keep seeing "replace this and replace that"... The kit works on it's own. The kit works marginally better with a few things swapped. The kit becomes an aftermarket "blown 500 cubic inch show car" if you're willing to throw enough money at it. The original intent was "to see if these chinese kits were actually worth the cheap price".. They absolutely are, but if you think that Stihl has more than $500 in an OEM saw at cost, you're crazy. So yeah, you can in all honesty make a saw that's superior to an actual $1500 retail OEM 660... My saws are work saws and thats exactly what I expect them to do and how I build them. I'd say if you had a hard target of $400, and you replace parts with "better" (not always oem) parts in order of importance till you get to $400, you will end up with a really nice saw.


----------



## Bedford T

carrbear said:


> Others might like to know. Care to share the link ?


http://mittysupply.com/ and choose your brand. )on mobile look in the lawn section and then choose your brand)


----------



## Bedford T

Huskydude70 said:


> Bedford, have you thought about making up your own kits and selling them? Maybe just the parts that are generally missing and preferred to use on the various Chinese kits? You could be the "Chainsaw kit for the Chinese chainsaw kit guy". Kits could include assortment of a.m. and oem parts



I love that idea. There is really not enough volume to have product siting on my shelf. I have considered that. I asked definitive dave to open a tool store so guys could get what they needed and i don't think he like that idea, he already sells the stuff.

So the way I have handled it is I wrote the website. The most complete is the 660. I am going to do a 440 mag next and while i am doing that I will make the 440 list more complete. Right now you can find out, what to expect, how to respond and what to buy and links to videos on how to do it. It would be great if I could make some money and retire again but its just a hobby. For fun so guys can buildem and come and show us what they did. its a lot of fun when some one gets a kit and builds it live. meaning he is telling you what he is doing while he is doing it. but with the videos thats kinda hard. because you know and dont have to ask. If you read what i wrote and watch my videos espically on the 660 since I am trying to make a point. your saw will start up and run a long time without drama. I would have paid 500$ to have had that info on my first kit. i would have been on top of the world, I had to beg and endure ridicule but it got done. My first had an air leak. no pressure tester lol


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> View attachment 633339
> Bedford T here's the old 064 some people love them some people hate them but i love it.


that looks like a beast, its battle ready lol


----------



## Bedford T

Huskydude70 said:


> All I'm saying is that when people on here are buying these kits, there are usually parts that are missing. Also parts that are commonly replaced with oem parts or better aftermarket parts. So he could have a kit premade for your Chinese kit with all those parts.



I have done enough and seen enough that there are parts you should replace unless you are going to maybe use your saw 50 times.

currently every fuel related part should be oem including carb
piston needle bearing, wrist pin, shorten your ears on the circlips, decomp valve
only use a brake band with a pin
only use the wrap handle or buy a used/new oem to be sure it does not bend like the kit handle can.
I know i am leaving something out

And I was, the rotor and the rope. On the big 660 you might enjoy the elastostart. Nothings wrong with the oiler with a 20in bar anything over you need the 3201 oiler, just like a real Stihl.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> that looks like a beast, its battle ready lol


Yes sir she is. I haha a question about getting some videos on here I've tried many times now to share the short vid I made on how to replace the fuel nipple on the carb but it just won't let me for some reason. Maybe there's something I'm doing wrong I don't know?


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Yes sir she is. I haha a question about getting some videos on here I've tried many times now to share the short vid I made on how to replace the fuel nipple on the carb but it just won't let me for some reason. Maybe there's something I'm doing wrong I don't know?


You gotta post the video somewhere that you can share it. YouTube and others. Then get the shared link and come back here and paste the link, the video will appear here. We can upload photos here and we should be thankful for that. But on videos it has to be somewhere else


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> You gotta post the video somewhere that you can share it. YouTube and others. Then get the shared link and come back here and paste the link, the video will appear here. We can upload photos here and we should be thankful for that. But on videos it has to be somewhere else


OK I'll give it a go some time this weekend not like I can go outside and play or anything it's ugly out there Lol


Bedford T said:


> You gotta post the video somewhere that you can share it. YouTube and others. Then get the shared link and come back here and paste the link, the video will appear here. We can upload photos here and we should be thankful for that. But on videos it has to be somewhere else





Bedford T said:


> You gotta post the video somewhere that you can share it. YouTube and others. Then get the shared link and come back here and paste the link, the video will appear here. We can upload photos here and we should be thankful for that. But on videos it has to be somewhere else


----------



## fulladirt

I agree FT 660 oiling chain kinda chincy....With 24" bar and oiler set to "max" I can see it slinging a little onto cardboard. But after cutting some rounds the chain is dry and crusty lookin. I can get about 2 tanks of fuel per 1 tank bar oil. It's advisable to get a high output oiler? Can anyone get me a link for it?


----------



## Bedford T

Stihl regular pump does not coat a longer bar either.

HO oiler is 1122 640 3201 you can find AM ones on ebay


----------



## fulladirt

Great thanks for part# gonna go have a lookse.


----------



## hacksaw11111

Bedford T said:


> Since last post I found a Stens 36" for <$60 @ Maverick mower. An excellent price


Hi, just getting my parts together for a new 660 build. I'm going to be milling with the 660. got the kit +$200 in OEM and AM parts, thanks for all the suggestions.

Can you confirm that this bar will work with the 660 (sthil not listed)?

What would be a good (yet economical haha) chain to pair it with for milling?

What mill are you guys using? Is the FT any good? also, does the FT go on sale often? they have it for 139 on ebay, but I guess it was a lot cheaper in the past.

Thanks guys, and especially Bedford...gonna be watching your videos every step of the build!


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> Hi, just getting my parts together for a new 660 build. I'm going to be milling with the 660. got the kit +$200 in OEM and AM parts, thanks for all the suggestions.
> 
> Can you confirm that this bar will work with the 660 (sthil not listed)?
> 
> What would be a good (yet economical haha) chain to pair it with for milling?
> 
> What mill are you guys using? Is the FT any good? also, does the FT go on sale often? they have it for 139 on ebay, but I guess it was a lot cheaper in the past.
> 
> Thanks guys, and especially Bedford...gonna be watching your videos every step of the build!


What bar do you plan on using?


----------



## William Prophett

I have a Granberg 36 and run an Archer Pro 36 with the 660 and Oregon Powermatch 36 with my Huskys... I use Carlon full house rip chain at 10....


----------



## Bedford T

My FarmerTec mill works great and yes they go on sale. I hope to be using it soon.

I guess you have read my warnings on milling with it so I won't repeat. But welcome and hope you have just as much fun as we have. You will be a lot savvier when you finish.

There is a fella in the mountains of nc that has the machinery and skill to advise you on the chain. Since your milling you need the best chain. I use huztl chain on about everything except milling. Oregon and Stihl are fine chains. Madsens1.com has some great information on milling and chains.

Now why the best chain on a saw you built. Cause milling is really tuff on a chainsaw and we built ours. The chain doing all the work.

Apbarshop.com you can message him. I bought a cannon bar from him and it cost half what I paid on the saw. Everyother bar is a huztl or another Chinese bar. On milling my bar and chain are up there. Man my saws mill great. Give it plenty of oil in the fuel and on the bar. I just posted on a high output oilers I would grab two of those.

We are here if you need us. When your using the videos listen/watch close I am not an actor and it is sorta like I am doing it live. So I might oil a bearing and forgot to say the words. I don't remember that happening but between the spoken and the action you will cover all your bases. One more thing heat cycle your engine before you actually mill it will also help you catch issues, like a test run.

32:1


----------



## MG porting

William Prophett said:


> I have a Granberg 36 and run an Archer Pro 36 with the 660 and Oregon Powermatch 36 with my Huskys... I use Carlon full house rip chain at 10....


I would run the Oregon bar myself but thats just me or a stihl bare.


----------



## hacksaw11111

Sorry, I was looking at the husky one...they have a Stihl...newbe!
https://maverickmowersupply.com/075...reak&description=true&sort=p.price&order=DESC
would this be good for milling?

Is the Archer Pro a better brand or about the same?

Is this the Carlon chain? I bought a Stihl sharpener...can that be used to get 10 deg?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/36-Chainsa...120670699665?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

There is a 36" Forester w Full Chisel Chain for 82 also
https://www.ebay.com/itm/36-Foreste...633753&hash=item5457689afc:g:8mMAAOSw42JZB1B9

thanks for all the help


----------



## William Prophett

MG porting said:


> I would run the Oregon bar myself but thats just me or a stihl bare.


Like I said, I have both the Oregon and the Archer Pro. I've milled a ton with the Oregon and only one 25" dia log with the new Archer... The Oregon does fine... I don't have any complaints yet with the Archer...


----------



## hacksaw11111

Bedford T said:


> My FarmerTec mill works great and yes they go on sale. I hope to be using it soon.
> 
> I just posted on a high output oilers I would grab two of those.
> 
> 32:1


Thanks, you guys are fast! I just bought a HO oilier...why do you suggest two? do they wear out fast? 
I guess the cheap bars can't handle milling? let me know, I'll step it up if need be. thx again!


----------



## William Prophett

Both of my 36 bars are 3/8 .063... The Carlton chains that I have are 115 3/8 .063, but I took a link put of one chain to use it with the Archer on the 660. This is the first Archer bar that I've ever owned and to be honest, the Archer Pro bar is very well put together...


----------



## hacksaw11111

Cool - I'll look for them now. Do you guys buy chain in bulk and make loops or just buy the chain pre made? I have a bunch of milling I wanna do, so that maybe something to look into, but not sure if its worth the hassle? On a budget tho.
Anyone have some good links for chain prep for milling?

how about this bar https://www.ebay.com/itm/36-Pro-Bar...112581117091?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10


----------



## William Prophett

hacksaw11111 said:


> Cool - I'll look for them now. Do you guys buy chain in bulk and make loops or just buy the chain pre made? I have a bunch of milling I wanna do, so that maybe something to look into, but not sure if its worth the hassle? On a budget tho.
> Anyone have some good links for chain prep for milling?


I've "been" buying "chains"... But now that I have two different drivelink bars I ordered a 25' roll... It's around $160 for 25 feet.


----------



## William Prophett

hacksaw11111 said:


> Cool - I'll look for them now. Do you guys buy chain in bulk and make loops or just buy the chain pre made? I have a bunch of milling I wanna do, so that maybe something to look into, but not sure if its worth the hassle? On a budget tho.
> Anyone have some good links for chain prep for milling?
> 
> how about this bar https://www.ebay.com/itm/36-Pro-Bar...112581117091?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10


What "kind" of milling do you want to do? Stuff for woodworking? Or do you want to do big stuff for timber framing? There is a big difference between hobby milling and production milling with a chainsaw... If you are into big repetitive stuff or big hardwood, I would stick to good bars and chains... The numbers on that "Laser" bar kinda scare me. None of the part numbers are universal.


----------



## William Prophett

hacksaw11111 said:


> Cool - I'll look for them now. Do you guys buy chain in bulk and make loops or just buy the chain pre made? I have a bunch of milling I wanna do, so that maybe something to look into, but not sure if its worth the hassle? On a budget tho.
> Anyone have some good links for chain prep for milling?
> 
> how about this bar https://www.ebay.com/itm/36-Pro-Bar...112581117091?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10


I have far more money in bars and chains for milling than I do in the saw...


----------



## William Prophett

hacksaw11111 said:


> Cool - I'll look for them now. Do you guys buy chain in bulk and make loops or just buy the chain pre made? I have a bunch of milling I wanna do, so that maybe something to look into, but not sure if its worth the hassle? On a budget tho.
> Anyone have some good links for chain prep for milling?
> 
> how about this bar https://www.ebay.com/itm/36-Pro-Bar...112581117091?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10


I paid $138 plus shipping for the 660 (not counting replacement parts) and the Oregon Powermatch with 2 chains was $180.


----------



## hacksaw11111

William Prophett said:


> I've "been" buying "chains"... But now that I have two different drivelink bars I ordered a 25' roll... It's around $160 for 25 feet.


Could you post a link (to the chain roll - for milling - or do you buy general chain and modify it)? I wanna get two bars as well and I think it would be best just to get a roll now then invest in individual chains. Also if you've done the research on tools and links that would be helpful, or have a tread saved that details it...so much info to wade through, haha

for the milling bar you would suggest a Oregon or the Archer Pro?

BTW - I'm milling for hobby woodworking...don't even have many big trees on my land, but would like something that would hold up. probably start with some pines


----------



## William Prophett

hacksaw11111 said:


> Could you post a link (to the chain roll - for milling - or do you buy general chain and modify it)? I wanna get two bars as well and I think it would be best just to get a roll now then invest in individual chains. Also if you've done the research on tools and links that would be helpful, or have a tread saved that details it...so much info to wade through, haha
> 
> for the milling bar you would suggest a Oregon or the Archer Pro?


Depends on the bar you get, but here is the chain I use.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/162441233134


----------



## William Prophett

hacksaw11111 said:


> Could you post a link (to the chain roll - for milling - or do you buy general chain and modify it)? I wanna get two bars as well and I think it would be best just to get a roll now then invest in individual chains. Also if you've done the research on tools and links that would be helpful, or have a tread saved that details it...so much info to wade through, haha
> 
> for the milling bar you would suggest a Oregon or the Archer Pro?
> 
> BTW - I'm milling for hobby woodworking...don't even have many big trees on my land, but would like something that would hold up. probably start with some pines


----------



## William Prophett

hacksaw11111 said:


> Could you post a link (to the chain roll - for milling - or do you buy general chain and modify it)? I wanna get two bars as well and I think it would be best just to get a roll now then invest in individual chains. Also if you've done the research on tools and links that would be helpful, or have a tread saved that details it...so much info to wade through, haha
> 
> for the milling bar you would suggest a Oregon or the Archer Pro?
> 
> BTW - I'm milling for hobby woodworking...don't even have many big trees on my land, but would like something that would hold up. probably start with some pines


----------



## William Prophett

hacksaw11111 said:


> Could you post a link (to the chain roll - for milling - or do you buy general chain and modify it)? I wanna get two bars as well and I think it would be best just to get a roll now then invest in individual chains. Also if you've done the research on tools and links that would be helpful, or have a tread saved that details it...so much info to wade through, haha
> 
> for the milling bar you would suggest a Oregon or the Archer Pro?
> 
> BTW - I'm milling for hobby woodworking...don't even have many big trees on my land, but would like something that would hold up. probably start with some pines



i also grabbed this 25 for cutting firewood..


----------



## William Prophett

hacksaw11111 said:


> Could you post a link (to the chain roll - for milling - or do you buy general chain and modify it)? I wanna get two bars as well and I think it would be best just to get a roll now then invest in individual chains. Also if you've done the research on tools and links that would be helpful, or have a tread saved that details it...so much info to wade through, haha
> 
> for the milling bar you would suggest a Oregon or the Archer Pro?
> 
> BTW - I'm milling for hobby woodworking...don't even have many big trees on my land, but would like something that would hold up. probably start with some pines


I can't really tell the difference in the Oregon Power match or the Archer so far.. The Archer seems to be a pretty good bar for the money. Modifying chains for ripping isn't very hard either. There are several different ways to do it . 10 degree chisel, zero degree chisel, zero degree chisel and 25 degree half scoring teeth like the Granberg chain. I've had very good luck with the 10 degree Carlton, so I haven't screwed with it.


----------



## Bedford T

hacksaw11111 said:


> Could you post a link (to the chain roll - for milling - or do you buy general chain and modify it)? I wanna get two bars as well and I think it would be best just to get a roll now then invest in individual chains. Also if you've done the research on tools and links that would be helpful, or have a tread saved that details it...so much info to wade through, haha
> 
> for the milling bar you would suggest a Oregon or the Archer Pro?
> 
> BTW - I'm milling for hobby woodworking...don't even have many big trees on my land, but would like something that would hold up. probably start with some pines



I encourage you to stop and go look at those places I mention to gather info on the chain and bars.

until you get more education then go with opinion and suggestions. there is way more to this. that hey look at this fine bar.

http://www.madsens1.com/muu_barchain.htm


----------



## William Prophett

Interesting Bedford. I'm trying to help the guy out and I do this for a living. Thats kinda like me telling him to "stop and go watch Walt to build the saw"... Thanks for spitting in my ****ing face.


----------



## William Prophett

hacksaw11111 said:


> Could you post a link (to the chain roll - for milling - or do you buy general chain and modify it)? I wanna get two bars as well and I think it would be best just to get a roll now then invest in individual chains. Also if you've done the research on tools and links that would be helpful, or have a tread saved that details it...so much info to wade through, haha
> 
> for the milling bar you would suggest a Oregon or the Archer Pro?
> 
> BTW - I'm milling for hobby woodworking...don't even have many big trees on my land, but would like something that would hold up. probably start with some pines


If you want any help, I'm at Pirate Solutions Custom Woodworking and Toolsmithing on Facebook... There is plenty of info and pictures there. Shoot me a message and I'll help you out any way I can. I'm outa here.


----------



## MG porting

William Prophett said:


> Interesting Bedford. I'm trying to help the guy out and I do this for a living. Thats kinda like me telling him to "stop and go watch Walt to build the saw"... Thanks for spitting in my ****ing face.


I don't think that was his intention it can get crazy on here sometimes and at the same time try not to take thing's to personal. It's no different from me telling someone how to port a cylinder and then someone telling them to go to somewhere else first I'm not going to let that bother me because there's so many ways to do it and I like knowing that there might be someone else who has a better idea than I do because it might make me better at what I do. Just saying.


----------



## Bedford T

WoW!

William was helping and I was too. Chain is one area we can not help each other with (not in here) its too complicated and when you add milling to it, it makes some basic understanding mandatory. There are guys on this site that are actual experts on chain and there is more than one. Information was being shot so fast at hacksaw what i wanted him to slow down and start to look so he could talk to William who I am sure has a lot of experience that he is anxious to help/share others with. I could see hacksaw placing an order to get it over with.

Nobody need to show me up and i was not showing up William. an hours worth of reading hacksaw could have asked pointed question from someone who appears to have experience or understood better what he was hearing. i am just a humble kit builder who has been though the forum thing. where making a post can cause you to lose sleep after someone twists it up. man i love this journey and want everyone that wants to join in including william and hacksaw or anyone else, to join in. building a saw is not anywhere as complicated as understanding the chain.

guys dont be afraid of this process. the forum is scary and there are some buttholes. but you will survive, i am proof. so ask questions make comments and if you see someone going to fast slow them down. the scary part is when you are not sure what to ask or how to present it so you don't look clueless. if that is keeping you from posting send me a message i will if i can help you make sense so you can make your post, if that will get you off the fence and talking.

i will tell you a lesson i learned so prove its confusing. i got the 070 and there were no bars for it that i felt good about. So i went to my stihl dealer and told him i had a 070 and needed a bar. this guy had never seen one, he grabbed his catalog and said you need this bar. so i bought it, he ordered it and it arrived and i tried to put it on and it would not fit!

I did everything right and the guy was so mad at me when i wanted to return it, why was he not mad at stihl? stihl does not sell a bar that will fit a 070, i did not know that. on a 070/090 there is also the argument of 3/8 or .404. Regular chain what grind? skip? on and on, angle of your grind, lol. So before you buy and hacksaw was hunting we need to slow down and get it right. that was my total motivation. I also got a lesson by driving to see a guy that specializes in chain and bars and bought the bar/chain from him. I saw some amazing equipment that he uses to grind the chain and the other support equipment like straightening out a bar. thousands of dollars in equipment. there is a lot to it, but its easy to learn, its not rocket science, but you do need to get the basics so you can absorb the rest as you go.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> WoW!
> 
> William was helping and I was too. Chain is one area we can not help each other with (not in here) its too complicated and when you add milling to it, it makes some basic understanding mandatory. There are guys on this site that are actual experts on chain and there is more than one. Information was being shot so fast at hacksaw what i wanted him to slow down and start to look so he could talk to William who I am sure has a lot of experience that he is anxious to help/share others with. I could see hacksaw placing an order to get it over with.
> 
> Nobody need to show me up and i was not showing up William. an hours worth of reading hacksaw could have asked pointed question from someone who appears to have experience or understood better what he was hearing. i am just a humble kit builder who has been though the forum thing. where making a post can cause you to lose sleep after someone twists it up. man i love this journey and want everyone that wants to join in including william and hacksaw or anyone else, to join in. building a saw is not anywhere as complicated as understanding the chain.
> 
> guys dont be afraid of this process. the forum is scary and there are some buttholes. but you will survive, i am proof. so ask questions make comments and if you see someone going to fast slow them down. the scary part is when you are not sure what to ask or how to present it so you don't look clueless. if that is keeping you from posting send me a message i will if i can help you make sense so you can make your post, if that will get you off the fence and talking.
> 
> i will tell you a lesson i learned so prove its confusing. i got the 070 and there were no bars for it that i felt good about. So i went to my stihl dealer and told him i had a 070 and needed a bar. this guy had never seen one, he grabbed his catalog and said you need this bar. so i bought it, he ordered it and it arrived and i tried to put it on and it would not fit!
> 
> I did everything right and the guy was so mad at me when i wanted to return it, why was he not mad at stihl? stihl does not sell a bar that will fit a 070, i did not know that. on a 070/090 there is also the argument of 3/8 or .404. Regular chain what grind? skip? on and on, angle of your grind, lol. So before you buy and hacksaw was hunting we need to slow down and get it right. that was my total motivation. I also got a lesson by driving to see a guy that specializes in chain and bars and bought the bar/chain from him. I saw some amazing equipment that he uses to grind the chain and the other support equipment like straightening out a bar. thousands of dollars in equipment. there is a lot to it, but its easy to learn, its not rocket science, but you do need to get the basics so you can absorb the rest as you go.


Very well put Bedford I love this sight and love the knowledge that comes with it.


----------



## Huskydude70

It can go upside down in here in a hurry.


----------



## MG porting

Ok today i was trapped in the house today do to a cold and it's snowing outside so i thought i would look for a different cilinder and piston for the farmertec ms660 just because and I come across one I've neve heard of it's a Maco has anyone heard of this one or used this cilinder and piston kit before. Bedford T how about you? Because after I get all the fuel system all replaced with oem I'm thinking might change out the top end just because. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

Never heard of it but that means nothing. World's a great big old place. With your porting skills you could take a fair one and make it a good one.

Not snowing here thank goodness but I know what you mean. I spent some time with that new chain sharpener I got. Even made a video of me using it. A great way to see it being used by a total numb. By the end I had got the hang of it. I must fix up a holder before I do it again. I am sold on it cause it's quick and I don't have to learn all at once. I can have a properly honed chain while I learn. That sounded sweet.

I am going to crack open a used 440 case next week sometime when my buddy gets back. He and I share a few expensive tools like the Stihl case cracker. Going build a Magnum. I refuse to take the top off my saw it runs so good. Just build another engine. But you on the other hand would. Gutsy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Never heard of it but that means nothing. World's a great big old place. With your porting skills you could take a fair one and make it a good one.
> 
> Not snowing here thank goodness but I know what you mean. I spent some time with that new chain sharpener I got. Even made a video of me using it. A great way to see it being used by a total numb. By the end I had got the hang of it. I must fix up a holder before I do it again. I am sold on it cause it's quick and I don't have to learn all at once. I can have a properly honed chain while I learn. That sounded sweet.
> 
> I am going to crack open a used 440 case next week sometime when my buddy gets back. He and I share a few expensive tools like the Stihl case cracker. Going build a Magnum. I refuse to take the top off my saw it runs so good. Just build another engine. But you on the other hand would. Gutsy


Lol. Yea . I'm glad the file set up worked out well for you that's awesome and you will love the 440 magnum I've had a couple sooper good saw can't go wrong with one that's for sure.


----------



## Bedford T

I am itching to build. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Lol. Yea . I'm glad the file set up worked out well for you that's awesome and you will love the 440 magnum I've had a couple sooper good saw can't go wrong with one that's for sure.


Gonna buy the cylinder or a cylinder?


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Gonna buy the cylinder or a cylinder?


Lol. Cylinder you got me.


----------



## Bedford T

i meant that brand or another


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Gonna buy the cylinder or a cylinder?


And yes I think i will the price is not to bad $99 bucks for piston and cylinder kit and in the sails add it seed that master mind liked it so I might go for it and who knows it might work out to where I might talk you in to getting a Maco.


----------



## Bedford T

Look forward to hearing how all that turns out. His cross cylinder about tore up my saw. I caught it. Others were not so lucky. Long as someone else made it I will keep an open mind and just might get one too. Course then I would have to build another saw. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

I was so bored I got my bucket out with the ms250 kit parts in it and started to put it back together and found something else wrong. That's a lost cause. Still in the bucket. Lol. Need something to do.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Look forward to hearing how all that turns out. His cross cylinder about tore up my saw. I caught it. Others were not so lucky. Long as someone else made it I will keep an open mind and just might get one too. Course then I would have to build another saw. Lol


Yea i just got finished reading a page on other sigght and its funny how things can change a person's mind lol I guess even though there classified as a level A cylinder kit but a lol of people dont like them because they have had problems with the chrome flaking while porting them sooooo I'm going a differentt direction i think I'll try a Baileys NWP cylinder and piston kit Lol yeah I know I chang my mind like some people change there shoes but just think I just saved us from killing are saws from another crap cylinder if I'm going to spend money on a cylinder Im going to make sure I i can trust the quality otherwise I would just stick with the farmertec cylinder. So we shall see Bedford T.


----------



## Bedford T

Hyway is a good one. Or the 54mm I had last year was good and pretty too. Somebody talked me out of the saw but I was real happy with the jug kit. Then there's meteor. Trouble is Farmertec makes them for a lot of people and puts their name on them so it's hard to tell. Did you know they do the cross to cross specs? They don't do metero or hyway


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Hyway is a good one. Or the 54mm I had last year was good and pretty too. Somebody talked me out of the saw but I was real happy with the jug kit. Then there's meteor. Trouble is Farmertec makes them for a lot of people and puts their name on them so it's hard to tell. Did you know they do the cross to cross specs? They don't do metero or hyway


No i didn't know that wow that's funny considering the problems that people were having with the cross cylinder kits. I think the NWP cylinder kits are made in the USA but not to sure on that.


----------



## Bedford T

It was to their specs. I was told mm told them how to cut it. So if they did it to his specs not their fault


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> It was to their specs. I was told mm told them how to cut it. So if they did it to his specs not their fault


That would do it well hopefully cross will come up with something on there own for the ms660..


----------



## Bedford T

I wonder if there would be interest in renting the tools need to assembly a kit? i know that buying them is a stretch and others could afford it but are not interested in owning them. I am considering opening a store limited to tools and the idea of renting them sort of appealed to me so i thought I would ask and see if i could get feedback on it. A 660 kit, 440, 380, whatever would included the tools for that model. 

Example would be like getting a pressure gauge, flanges, rubber plates, oil and bearing tools. Circlip tool, heat gun, clamps, stops, etc. The deposit would be quite sizable to cover the all tools but once you returned them unharmed only what ever rental fee would be deducted. dirko and press fluid could be included. would take the pressure off and make the assembly fun. i could see just a pressure tool rental kit. use it return it, or keep it and own it.


----------



## Bedford T

Here is the 2n1 file. I got much better by the end, after a couple i should get the hang of it. easy and quick is what i needed


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I wonder if there would be interest in renting the tools need to assembly a kit? i know that buying them is a stretch and others could afford it but are not interested in owning them. I am considering opening a store limited to tools and the idea of renting them sort of appealed to me so i thought I would ask and see if i could get feedback on it. A 660 kit, 440, 380, whatever would included the tools for that model.
> 
> Example would be like getting a pressure gauge, flanges, rubber plates, oil and bearing tools. Circlip tool, heat gun, clamps, stops, etc. The deposit would be quite sizable to cover the all tools but once you returned them unharmed only what ever rental fee would be deducted. dirko and press fluid could be included. would take the pressure off and make the assembly fun. i could see just a pressure tool rental kit. use it return it, or keep it and own it.


I think that would be a good idea for most i would for myself rather own the tools so if you had both options buy the tools with the kits or send the tools back after completion. Good idea.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Here is the 2n1 file. I got much better by the end, after a couple i should get the hang of it. easy and quick is what i needed



Helpful tip for you on the open end of the cuter is the direction you push your file it will go way smoothly for you and be more consistent just to help you out. Good file setup I like it how much did it set you back?


----------



## Bedford T

38$


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> 38$


Not bad.


----------



## hacksaw11111

Thanks for the replys! 

Does anyone have detailed pics of a 660 muffler mod? or should I just buy the dual port cover? I've seen where guys just rip the baffle box out...does it make it ungodly loud?

Do the HO oilers wear out fast? Should I buy an extra, if I'm doing milling?

You guys have any recommendations on chain spinners? I saw the harbor freight one frequently need to be tweaked before it works right...anyone have a better option that is in the price range?
Thanks again!


----------



## Bedford T

The muffler is already modded in the kit. The oiler had a few duds. Not on mine but another guy. At that price my suggestion was order two. I guess I should have said why two.

I will allow others to pick up here....


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> Thanks for the replys!
> 
> Does anyone have detailed pics of a 660 muffler mod? or should I just buy the dual port cover? I've seen where guys just rip the baffle box out...does it make it ungodly loud?
> 
> Do the HO oilers wear out fast? Should I buy an extra, if I'm doing milling?
> 
> You guys have any recommendations on chain spinners? I saw the harbor freight one frequently need to be tweaked before it works right...anyone have a better option that is in the price range?
> Thanks again!


Yea it will make it a little bit louder but it will help let it run cooler


hacksaw11111 said:


> Thanks for the replys!
> 
> Does anyone have detailed pics of a 660 muffler mod? or should I just buy the dual port cover? I've seen where guys just rip the baffle box out...does it make it ungodly loud?
> 
> Do the HO oilers wear out fast? Should I buy an extra, if I'm doing milling?
> 
> You guys have any recommendations on chain spinners? I saw the harbor freight one frequently need to be tweaked before it works right...anyone have a better option that is in the price range?
> Thanks again!





hacksaw11111 said:


> Thanks for the replys!
> 
> Does anyone have detailed pics of a 660 muffler mod? or should I just buy the dual port cover? I've seen where guys just rip the baffle box out...does it make it ungodly loud?
> 
> Do the HO oilers wear out fast? Should I buy an extra, if I'm doing milling?
> 
> You guys have any recommendations on chain spinners? I saw the harbor freight one frequently need to be tweaked before it works right...anyone have a better option that is in the price range?
> Thanks again!


Yes it will make it a little bit louder but it will help it run a little bit cooler. I made mine a tryport and heres some picks


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> Thanks for the replys!
> 
> Does anyone have detailed pics of a 660 muffler mod? or should I just buy the dual port cover? I've seen where guys just rip the baffle box out...does it make it ungodly loud?
> 
> Do the HO oilers wear out fast? Should I buy an extra, if I'm doing milling?
> 
> You guys have any recommendations on chain spinners? I saw the harbor freight one frequently need to be tweaked before it works right...anyone have a better option that is in the price range?
> Thanks again!


But note this I've done some porting on my cylinder and not sure if you going to with yours you can just open up the outlets that are on the muffler that you have and on the baffle just cut off the front off the baffle with a dremil that should be good enough if your just looking for a little more power. It helps a little bit but you will need to change your jet in your carb if you let that saw breath more. Witch me and Bedford T would recommend ether way.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> But note this I've done some porting on my cylinder and not sure if you going to with yours you can just open up the outlets that are on the muffler that you have and on the baffle just cut off the front off the baffle with a dremil that should be good enough if your just looking for a little more power. It helps a little bit but you will need to change your jet in your carb if you let that saw breath more. Witch me and Bedford T would recommend ether way.


That's not a kit muffler is it?


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> That's not a kit muffler is it?


Nope i do like changing things up a little bit.


----------



## Bedford T

So to guys asking questions be sure you are both, are talking about same thing. Sometimes you are, sometimes your not. When I answer a kit question it's about stuff in the kit. Even then we need to be careful that the kit did not change like on the brake spring. Just saying

On kit mufflers they are dual ports and a very small baffle, just enough to maybe keep a screw out of cylinder. I am certain the kit muffler is louder than a stock muffler. Wear hearing protection


----------



## hacksaw11111

Ok cool...I'll just widen the muffler by the cylinder exhaust port then.

How much oil does the HO oiler put out? I don't have the saw together, but when I do, just wondering what I should be looking for to make sure its functioning right. Does it throw chain oil off quite a bit?


----------



## golddredgergold

Is this kit on eBay the hutzl farmertec kit? Ready to order. No ones answering the phone at HL supply. I tried to call and see if they will offer a coupon code or deal on the ms660 kit anytime soon. I also emailed 4 days ago no reply. So looking elsewhere. This one is on ebay. Is it the farmertec?


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> Ok cool...I'll just widen the muffler by the cylinder exhaust port then.
> 
> How much oil does the HO oiler put out? I don't have the saw together, but when I do, just wondering what I should be looking for to make sure its functioning right. Does it throw chain oil off quite a bit?


The mufflerm


golddredgergold said:


> Is this kit on eBay the hutzl farmertec kit? Ready to order. No ones answering the phone at HL supply. I tried to call and see if they will offer a coupon code or deal on the ms660 kit anytime soon. I also emailed 4 days ago no reply. So looking elsewhere. This one is on ebay. Is it the farmertec?View attachment 634550
> View attachment 634551
> View attachment 634552
> View attachment 634553


Looks like a farmertec kit


----------



## fulladirt

I cut the baffle out of my muffler...yep it's pretty loud, but it sounds awesome!


----------



## TheTone

MG porting said:


> Yes it will make it a little bit louder but it will help it run a little bit cooler. I made mine a tryport and heres some picks



Nice job. I may have to try that.


----------



## TheTone

Bedford T said:


> The muffler is already modded in the kit. The oiler had a few duds. Not on mine but another guy. At that price my suggestion was order two. I guess I should have said why two. I will allow others to pick up here....



I got my HO oiler from internationalsystemsandequipment in Tipperary, Ireland (It's a long way) on Ebay for $14.20, free shipping. I have no idea who manufactured it.


----------



## MG porting

TheTone said:


> Nice job. I may have to try that.


Thank you it sounds a little different to a few of my friends have oem ms660s with the oem dual port mufflers and mine sounds different from theres and thats what I was going for .


----------



## hacksaw11111

golddredgergold said:


> Is this kit on eBay the hutzl farmertec kit? Ready to order. No ones answering the phone at HL supply. I tried to call and see if they will offer a coupon code or deal on the ms660 kit anytime soon. I also emailed 4 days ago no reply. So looking elsewhere. This one is on ebay. Is it the farmertec?View attachment 634550
> View attachment 634551
> View attachment 634552
> View attachment 634553


It's Chinese new year... check back next week, they take a week or two off


----------



## hacksaw11111

MG porting said:


> Yea it will make it a little bit louder but it will help let it run cooler
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it will make it a little bit louder but it will help it run a little bit cooler. I made mine a tryport and heres some picks View attachment 634501
> View attachment 634502


Does duel Port mean holes on both sides, like this? Mine only has holes on one side? Although there is one in the cover and one in the base


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> Does duel Port mean holes on both sides, like this? Mine only has holes on one side? Although there is one in the cover and one in the base


The one you have is considered a dual port but it doesn't flow as much as the factory one but if add a third one it will but if you do put a third outlet in id start with a small hole like 1/4in and then see how you like it. Like I said I ported my cylinder so my saw like to breathe. Lol.


----------



## MG porting

Well Bedford T im still having trouble with the video so I just did some picks for you.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Is this kit on eBay the hutzl farmertec kit? Ready to order. No ones answering the phone at HL supply. I tried to call and see if they will offer a coupon code or deal on the ms660 kit anytime soon. I also emailed 4 days ago no reply. So looking elsewhere. This one is on ebay. Is it the farmertec?View attachment 634550
> View attachment 634551
> View attachment 634552
> View attachment 634553


Yes sir that is farmertec, they do business as huztl and machine doctor and a couple more on ebay


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Well Bedford T im still having trouble with the video so I just did some picks for you. View attachment 634591
> View attachment 634592
> View attachment 634593
> View attachment 634594
> View attachment 634595


That was clear enough, nice info


----------



## morbius18

I've built the 440 kit and omitted the base gasket and had the base milled to leave .015-.018 squish on it. I also cleaned up the ports, widened them slightly and port matched the intake baffle and muffler and removed the muffler internal baffle.

These were all on the 440 (really a 440 big bore). Does this 660 kit work the same way? Are base gaskets able to be omitted on the this one as well? I'm guessing yes to all these and will check all anyway, but I've had pretty good luck with increasing compression and power with the farmertec stuff.


----------



## Bedford T

hacksaw11111 said:


> Ok cool...I'll just widen the muffler by the cylinder exhaust port then.
> 
> How much oil does the HO oiler put out? I don't have the saw together, but when I do, just wondering what I should be looking for to make sure its functioning right. Does it throw chain oil off quite a bit?


 yours should look something like this and you don't need to do anything. get it air tight and break it in. these photos are from the first kits. i had to search to find them. lol thank goodness my camera is better now. there is two holes in the photo

on the oiler. you put a long bar on it and if the bar is wet with oil, the pump is doing its job and that is the place i got mine and I like it. i have written a dozen times on the output of the pump. my website has the specs on the pump if you cant find it anywhere else go look it up


----------



## Bedford T

you could just drill a big fat hole in it, maybe right in the middle. on a good day you might be able to light your cigars on it. when i was working on modding my 029 muffler i could not find anything "scientific" on what to do. kinda like folklore, depends on what tribe you belong too.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Is this kit on eBay the hutzl farmertec kit? Ready to order. No ones answering the phone at HL supply. I tried to call and see if they will offer a coupon code or deal on the ms660 kit anytime soon. I also emailed 4 days ago no reply. So looking elsewhere. This one is on ebay. Is it the farmertec?View attachment 634550
> View attachment 634551
> View attachment 634552
> View attachment 634553


when you order it send attach a note to the seller and tell them not to screw up your bag of brake parts like scores unlucky folks get. tell them to keep the 440 spring and send a 660. lol

you best go buy one


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> I've built the 440 kit and omitted the base gasket and had the base milled to leave .015-.018 squish on it. I also cleaned up the ports, widened them slightly and port matched the intake baffle and muffler and removed the muffler internal baffle.
> 
> These were all on the 440 (really a 440 big bore). Does this 660 kit work the same way? Are base gaskets able to be omitted on the this one as well? I'm guessing yes to all these and will check all anyway, but I've had pretty good luck with increasing compression and power with the farmertec stuff.


It's a hit and miss on squish on the cylinders from what I've gathered. The two I have one is right at .024 and the other one is . 022 but one seeds farmertec on it and the other one has no markings on it.


----------



## hacksaw11111

Bedford T said:


> yours should look something like this and you don't need to do anything. get it air tight and break it in. these photos are from the first kits. i had to search to find them. lol thank goodness my camera is better now. there is two holes in the photo
> 
> on the oiler. you put a long bar on it and if the bar is wet with oil, the pump is doing its job and that is the place i got mine and I like it. i have written a dozen times on the output of the pump. my website has the specs on the pump if you cant find it anywhere else go look it up
> 
> 
> View attachment 634599
> View attachment 634600


I bought one of the irish aftermarket ones...just wanted to see if there is a way to check if its preforming like it should be. I also bought a 36" bar, so I guess if it lubes that up, it will be working haha


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> Yes sir that is farmertec, they do business as huztl and machine doctor and a couple more on ebay


Awesome. Order placed. Now just waiting. Tried to get a carb Wj-76 on mitty site but out of stock. Will go by stihl dealer and get wrist pin, bearing and clips. Want to run a Decomp valve. Got one ordered.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Awesome. Order placed. Now just waiting. Tried to get a carb Wj-76 on mitty site but out of stock. Will go by stihl dealer and get wrist pin, bearing and clips. Want to run a Decomp valve. Got one ordered.


She has a bucket of carbs on order. Should be here soon after you get yours built. No that she has us I doubt she runs out again. I swooped in and her orders when up unexpectedly. Your on your way. Congrats.

Do you have a pressure tester? If not read about 10 pages back.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

hacksaw11111 said:


> I bought one of the irish aftermarket ones...just wanted to see if there is a way to check if its preforming like it should be. I also bought a 36" bar, so I guess if it lubes that up, it will be working haha


Lol, those are the only ones available unless you bought oem. The Irish also make the Tillotson carbs. That is the one I am using, the Irish one. 36 is a long bar and it should keep it wet

For build info: http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> She has a bucket of carbs on order. Should be here soon after you get yours built. No that she has us I doubt she runs out again. I swooped in and her orders when up unexpectedly. Your on your way. Congrats.
> 
> Do you have a pressure tester? If not read about 10 pages back.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Got my pressure tester ordered last week due for delivery tomorrow. Mitty got back to me and said end of March. Do you have a link to the Wj-67 on eBay that I can get the .74 jet for? And best place to buy the jet if I can't find it locally?


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Got my pressure tested ordered last week due for delivery tomorrow. Kitty got back to me and said end of March. Do you have a link to the Wj-67 on eBay that I can get the .74 jet for? And best place to buy the jet if I can't find it locally?


I just got a delivery. I will take care of it and get back to you

For build info: http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Got my pressure tester ordered last week due for delivery tomorrow. Mitty got back to me and said end of March. Do you have a link to the Wj-67 on eBay that I can get the .74 jet for? And best place to buy the jet if I can't find it locally?


I am sorry to say they are out. I knew there was a reason I removed it from my website. There is so many on ebay that use the same photo, I had a real hard time. If you just ordered your kit it will be 3 weeks before you get it delivered. They are not back until the 27th. then putting it together, you would have about a two week wait on your wj-76. that's a bummer

Another thing you could do is ask mitty to get you the jet and inquire about a wj-69 to put it in, dont know if that is good advice. in the meantime, if i see one of those carbs that i think is actually the correct one i will let you know. the walbro jet part # is 122-466-74-1 if she can get you one i will look and see if i have an extra i could let go of. pm me if that is appealing


----------



## MG porting

Well Bedford T I've been doing a lot of research today and I've have come to a solid decision on what cylinder and piston kit im going to get for the ms660. I know make up your mind right. Lol. With all the good and bad and the soso I'm going with the Highway cylinder and Meteor piston although I will be making sure that the timing is good but I'm not going to be going crazy with my port work just something to try and if i can tell a difference in power I might do the same on the spare 660. But I'm doing this setup for sure. Lol.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Well Bedford T I've been doing a lot of research today and I've have come to a solid decision on what cylinder and piston kit im going to get for the ms660. I know make up your mind right. Lol. With all the good and bad and the soso I'm going with the Highway cylinder and Meteor piston although I will be making sure that the timing is good but I'm not going to be going crazy with my port work just something to try and if i can tell a difference in power I might do the same on the spare 660. But I'm doing this setup for sure. Lol.


Everybody needs a spare 660! Lol. Sounds like fun. I wish I had more confidence in the case threads in a magnesium case but I don't. Take the cylinder off after I made it air tight just is not happening with mine. But I will enjoy yours.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Everybody needs a spare 660! Lol. Sounds like fun. I wish I had more confidence in the case threads in a magnesium case but I don't. Take the cylinder off after I made it air tight just is not happening with mine. But I will enjoy yours.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Lol i here you. But someone has to do it so I guess it will be me.


----------



## morbius18

I'm assembling mine, finally. 
Huztl sent it via SF express. They delivered it and showed delivered on SF's site, but it wasn't to me. They were closed for president's day/new year and when calling their customer service, they told me it had been delivered to a local ups store and gave me the address. It had been sitting there for a week and they had no idea what to do with it.

I got it and checked everything, and found the front locating pin hole must have been jammed and hit in chipping the front of the case. It is below the tank area, but I've still contacted them. 





I've gotten it together to test the squish, and am unabke to get the front clutch side screw into the hole, its hitting the fins. That will have to be cleaned up slightly.



I tried it without gasket and it was hitting the top of the cylinder, a good sign. With the gasket, it measured .021. I'm acually impressed. This is the first farmertec cylinder that wont require shaving the base. I'm still going to clean up the ports/transfers and port match it.


----------



## morbius18

The offending hole:


----------



## morbius18

The ports also match really well too. The intake port is slightly bigger than the bellow, the exhaust matches the muffler exactly. I was going to build this for a friend, but I might keep it for myself. Although I have no use for a saw this big...


----------



## Imprzed205

Bedford T said:


> yours should look something like this and you don't need to do anything. get it air tight and break it in. these photos are from the first kits. i had to search to find them. lol thank goodness my camera is better now. there is two holes in the photo
> 
> on the oiler. you put a long bar on it and if the bar is wet with oil, the pump is doing its job and that is the place i got mine and I like it. i have written a dozen times on the output of the pump. my website has the specs on the pump if you cant find it anywhere else go look it up
> 
> 
> View attachment 634599
> View attachment 634600


I ordered and have my kit built with several upgrades. On my muffler I drilled the spotwelds and removed the baffle. 
I also ordered a hyway cylinder I'm going to cut the band and base before I port it. Money's no object for this cheap girl lol.


----------



## morbius18

Imprzed205 said:


> I ordered and have my kit built with several upgrades. On my muffler I drilled the spotwelds and removed the baffle.
> I also ordered a hyway cylinder I'm going to cut the band and base before I port it. Money's no object for this cheap girl lol. View attachment 634856



I was planning on removing my baffle too, I also got the Walbro carb from mittys.

When you cut the band at the top and the base, is the purpose to decrease the combustion chamber volume and cutting the base to remove the extra gap you create by cutting to top? 

So you decrease the volume of the top chamber and move the piston higher by cutting the base, then file the flywheel key to correct the timing. 

I've never had it explained to me, so I'm checking if what I think is correct.


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> The offending hole:
> View attachment 634842


That's happened before.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> The ports also match really well too. The intake port is slightly bigger than the bellow, the exhaust matches the muffler exactly. I was going to build this for a friend, but I might keep it for myself. Although I have no use for a saw this big...


Sometimes tells me this will not be your last.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> I'm assembling mine, finally.
> Huztl sent it via SF express. They delivered it and showed delivered on SF's site, but it wasn't to me. They were closed for president's day/new year and when calling their customer service, they told me it had been delivered to a local ups store and gave me the address. It had been sitting there for a week and they had no idea what to do with it.
> 
> I got it and checked everything, and found the front locating pin hole must have been jammed and hit in chipping the front of the case. It is below the tank area, but I've still contacted them.
> View attachment 634837
> 
> View attachment 634839
> 
> 
> I've gotten it together to test the squish, and am unabke to get the front clutch side screw into the hole, its hitting the fins. That will have to be cleaned up slightly.
> View attachment 634841
> 
> 
> I tried it without gasket and it was hitting the top of the cylinder, a good sign. With the gasket, it measured .021. I'm acually impressed. This is the first farmertec cylinder that wont require shaving the base. I'm still going to clean up the ports/transfers and port match it.


Having a kit you paid for misdelivered would be maddening. Can you get an answer why. Never heard of that.

But thanks for sharing

Sorry on the delay

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> I was planning on removing my baffle too, I also got the Walbro carb from mittys.
> 
> When you cut the band at the top and the base, is the purpose to decrease the combustion chamber volume and cutting the base to remove the extra gap you create by cutting to top?
> 
> So you decrease the volume of the top chamber and move the piston higher by cutting the base, then file the flywheel key to correct the timing.
> 
> I've never had it explained to me, so I'm checking if what I think is correct.


Yes it makes the combustion chamber smaller when you do this process but there's more to just moving the flywheel although you can get away with it but if you think about it you change your intake timing and and transfer timing and exhaust timing. So I would recommend taking baby steps if you never did this before. But it can be a lot of fun.


----------



## morbius18

MG porting said:


> Yes it makes the combustion chamber smaller when you do this process but there's more to just moving the flywheel although you can get away with it but if you think about it you change your intake timing and and transfer timing and exhaust timing. So I would recommend taking baby steps if you never did this before. But it can be a lot of fun.



I don't plan to get that in depth with it, just more of a general theory understanding


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> I don't plan to get that in depth with it, just more of a general theory understanding


It's fun but a lot of math and the only problem that I found doing it is every am saw is different so it makes it even more fun to me but like me it helps to have someone teach you because you can take a good running saw and then gash darn it i knew I should have left some more material in the intake port. Lol.


----------



## Imprzed205

Yes morbius like Mgporting said. Decreasing the chamber volume then cut the base to bring the piston back to around .020 squish. Then you port and change the port timing to what you like. As far as ign. Timing I like 8° advanced.
Work still in progress.


----------



## MG porting

Imprzed205 said:


> View attachment 634948
> View attachment 634947
> Yes morbius like Mgporting said. Decreasing the chamber volume then cut the base to bring the piston back to around .020 squish. Then you port and change the port timing to what you like. As far as ign. Timing I like 8° advanced.
> Work still in progress


Nice port work there you opened it up a bit. Lol that's going to be a screamer. You polished your exhaust like chrome like I do looks pretty.


----------



## Imprzed205

We're opening it up close to 70% I believe. I like to polish the exhaust. I feel any carbon build up while running is a restriction. 
Last one we did had 101 123 83 with 20° of blowdown and 195lbs of compression. It was strong with a 32 and 36" bar.


----------



## MG porting

Imprzed205 said:


> We're opening it up close to 70% I believe. I like to polish the exhaust. I feel any carbon build up while running is a restriction.
> Last one we did had 101 123 83 with 20° of blowdown and 195lbs of compression. It was strong with a 32 and 36" bar.


Very nice work I like. Makes mm want to go and do some more on mine but I need to contain myself I'm going to wait until I get another cylinder and piston kit before I do. Lol


----------



## Imprzed205

Thanks I'm learning. My friend has the lathe and grinding equipment. We're trying a few different things with a couple cylinders. Their cheap compared to oem so I don't feel so bad when one doesn't work out. 
With the bad reputation of the cross cylinders I haven't tried one of those. But their piston seems good and lighter than any I've found. 
Oem piston weight was 
94g
Meteor 96g
Hyway 89g
Cross 86g


----------



## morbius18

Imprzed205 said:


> Thanks I'm learning. My friend has the lathe and grinding equipment. We're trying a few different things with a couple cylinders. Their cheap compared to oem so I don't feel so bad when one doesn't work out.
> With the bad reputation of the cross cylinders I haven't tried one of those. But their piston seems good and lighter than any I've found.
> Oem piston weight was
> 94g
> Meteor 96g
> Hyway 89g
> Cross 86g



Would you pair the cross piston with caber rings? Are there any ussues with the cheap chrome farmertec cylinders and decent rings?

That port looks great. At some point I'd like to get a lathe, after I finish remodeling the house, turning our old tobacco barn into a horse barn with stalls, raising kids.... Some day


----------



## MG porting

Imprzed205 said:


> Thanks I'm learning. My friend has the lathe and grinding equipment. We're trying a few different things with a couple cylinders. Their cheap compared to oem so I don't feel so bad when one doesn't work out.
> With the bad reputation of the cross cylinders I haven't tried one of those. But their piston seems good and lighter than any I've found.
> Oem piston weight was
> 94g
> Meteor 96g
> Hyway 89g
> Cross 86g


Yea i here you. Lol. I guess if someone wanted to make a torke monster they would go with the heavyer piston but if you want it to scream go with the cross.


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> Would you pair the cross piston with caber rings? Are there any ussues with the cheap chrome farmertec cylinders and decent rings?
> 
> That port looks great. At some point I'd like to get a lathe, after I finish remodeling the house, turning our old tobacco barn into a horse barn with stalls, raising kids.... Some day


Capers and chrome cylinders are not a good fit

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## morbius18

I'm trying to justify keeping my 660. I own a 6 acre small farm, cut occasional wood for woodstove (not primary heat), I'm retired from Military so I have a lot of spare time. I own ms170, ms250, 024 sleeper (260 cylinder with fins removed) 026 pro, 2x 028s, 034, 036 pro, 036, farmertec 440, and now the farmertec 660. I try to justify it, one for stumps, one for junk, one for.... and I've got to have a backup for the backup for the original.


----------



## Imprzed205

Morbius I didn't use the cabers because I wasn't sure which they were the hard or the softer ones so I went with hyway. 

Mgporting. Lol. I had them all and was looking then I wondered about the weight. I open and taper the piston windows anyway. Just somthing to play with. I don't like going over 200psi. Anymore and it seems to fight against itself


----------



## morbius18

Bedford T said:


> Capers and chrome cylinders are not a good fit
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info



That's what I've discovered from reading. Is there a specific ring that everyone is using, or just the ones that come with the kit?


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Capers and chrome cylinders are not a good fit
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Witch is the other reason why I'm going to try a different cylinder and piston on mine. Lol


----------



## MG porting

Imprzed205 said:


> Morbius I didn't use the cabers because I wasn't sure which they were the hard or the softer ones so I went with hyway.
> 
> Mgporting. Lol. I had them all and was looking then I wondered about the weight. I open and taper the piston windows anyway. Just somthing to play with. I don't like going over 200psi. Anymore and it seems to fight against itself


Yea 200psi is a lot like you yield feel better at 180s or 190s that's a safer zone.


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> That's what I've discovered from reading. Is there a specific ring that everyone is using, or just the ones that come with the kit?


kit rings are great with the farmertec jug. should you change your jug thats when its safe to consider alternatives.


----------



## Bedford T

i just noticed something... to the guys still at the parts in a box stage. i need some info.

background
i have a 440 case that i am just getting around to cracking to remove a bad crank. i noticed that the exit holes for the case locator pins are missing. meaning i can not find a way to beat them out to crack it.

issue
a wave of fright swept over me when i saw this because i could not remember removing them from my last 660 build. that would have meant that on the 660 case the holes do not go all the way through like they should either. so huztl made it so the cases are harder to reuse if thats true.

would someone look and see if the two holes are fully open?

thanks


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> i just noticed something... to the guys still at the parts in a box stage. i need some info.
> 
> background
> i have a 440 case that i am just getting around to cracking to remove a bad crank. i noticed that the exit holes for the case locator pins are missing. meaning i can not find a way to beat them out to crack it.
> 
> issue
> a wave of fright swept over me when i saw this because i could not remember removing them from my last 660 build. that would have meant that on the 660 case the holes do not go all the way through like they should either. so huztl made it so the cases are harder to reuse if thats true.
> 
> would someone look and see if the two holes are fully open?
> 
> thanks


The one I had was the same way open on one side but closed on the other side you can still split the case put have to be more careful. The pins tend to fit looser on one side than the other just go at it slow.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> The one I had was the same way open on one side but closed on the other side you can still split the case put have to be more careful. The pins tend to fit looser on one side than the other just go at it slow.


Then I need to write that should be drilled out. Then you can build it and pop them out when your done like you are suppose to. 

Knowing before hand is being in control. It's should be simple to drill it. All mine were removed, except the last.

I documented it, so those that read will know. I can't believe I missed that as it was happening.




http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## TheTone

Bedford T said:


> Capers and chrome cylinders are not a good fit



Caber makes both I-cast and F-cast rings. The I-cast rings are the softer ones. You don't want the F-cast ones.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Then I need to write that should be drilled out. Then you can build it and pop them out when your done like you are suppose to.
> 
> Knowing before hand is being in control. It's should be simple to drill it. All mine were removed, except the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Yea just making sure that they get drilled before they get put together should be good enough the oem Stihl still has there pins left in them to help make the case halfs from flexing as much so I recommend leaving them in but thats just me being a little more coshis.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Yea just making sure that they get drilled before they get put together should be good enough the oem Stihl still has there pins left in them to help make the case halfs from flexing as much so I recommend leaving them in but thats just me being a little more coshis.


i will say i think your mistaken. i am reading the manual, back in a minute. they have to be removed to safely crack the case at the very least. if the holes are not drilled then you could mess the case up.

Where i read that it was recommended to remove the pins and store I can not find it. I am tired so i could be over looking it or it was not in the service manual. i did not make it up. but the point was the holes are not drilled and thats bad. easy fix knowing about it.


----------



## Bedford T

My interest is not in being right. It's about creating a correct record of how to.



http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> My interest is not in being right. It's about creating a correct record of how to.
> 
> 
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


I know no worries.


----------



## morbius18

Bedford T said:


> i just noticed something... to the guys still at the parts in a box stage. i need some info.
> 
> background
> i have a 440 case that i am just getting around to cracking to remove a bad crank. i noticed that the exit holes for the case locator pins are missing. meaning i can not find a way to beat them out to crack it.
> 
> issue
> a wave of fright swept over me when i saw this because i could not remember removing them from my last 660 build. that would have meant that on the 660 case the holes do not go all the way through like they should either. so huztl made it so the cases are harder to reuse if thats true.
> 
> would someone look and see if the two holes are fully open?
> 
> thanks



My 360 kit was the same way. Front pin by oil tank was one sided. I had to drill it out. I just assumed it was 'one of those things' in dealing with a chinese kit. Same thing with checking ports and the wrong brake spring. I've ran into all of those. 

My 440 kit had the vibration issue also. I replaced with oem : av stuff, flywheel, clutch and clutch sprocket. It fixed the issue.


----------



## Imprzed205

My 660 kit had several problems. It had the wrong wrist pin, brake spring, no pin the the band and a clutch that wouldn't fit the crank.


----------



## Bedford T

They can make a subtle change and it can go unnoticed. There is more than me building these kits, it would be nice if you mentioned physical changes like this. Missing stuff not the same, just as important but different. Took me 8 weeks to catch it

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

TheTone said:


> Caber makes both I-cast and F-cast rings. The I-cast rings are the softer ones. You don't want the F-cast ones.


 
Caber only makes one material type for the MS660 and that type is *F CAST IRON (GH. F.). *made exclusively for nikasil. 

they do make a few models for husky with the I type material.

no ms660 cabers rings are made any other way. a myth or a misunderstanding. dont mess up your farmertec with those outstanding rings. right product wrong application.


----------



## morbius18

I ran into a problem. I sealed the cylinder and was getting a massive air leak. So much my handheld gauge would run down right after setting it down. I used soap water on seals, good. Farmertec plug had a slight bubble, oem decomp was good. I thought exhaust black sandwiched between the muffler and cylinder. 

I hooked up a cylinder leakdown tester to continually blow air through it. It is leaking all along the flywheel side base gasket. 

I oriented the gasket with raised side up. It appears the cylinder is hitting the side of the case and not clamping all the way.



Unless the gasket isn't right. Any Ideas?


----------



## Imprzed205

Glad you did a pressure test that would have been bad. But That's not to bad of a problem It can be over come. I would take a little off the cylinder and the case in that spot. A small air gap is all that's needed. 1-2 mm would be plenty


----------



## morbius18

Imprzed205 said:


> Glad you did a pressure test that would have been bad. But That's not to bad of a problem It can be over come. I would take a little off the cylinder and the case in that spot. A small air gap is all that's needed. 1-2 mm would be plenty



That was my quitting point for the night. I'll hit it tomorrow and see if it is still an issue.


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> I ran into a problem. I sealed the cylinder and was getting a massive air leak. So much my handheld gauge would run down right after setting it down. I used soap water on seals, good. Farmertec plug had a slight bubble, oem decomp was good. I thought exhaust black sandwiched between the muffler and cylinder.
> 
> I hooked up a cylinder leakdown tester to continually blow air through it. It is leaking all along the flywheel side base gasket.
> 
> I oriented the gasket with raised side up. It appears the cylinder is hitting the side of the case and not clamping all the way.
> View attachment 635037
> 
> 
> Unless the gasket isn't right. Any Ideas?




the gasket is upside down. the bump goes inside. so get some sleep and hit it tomorrow. you might have messed the gasket up. so go slow there


----------



## morbius18

Bedford T said:


> the gasket is upside down. the bump goes inside. so get some sleep and hit it tomorrow. you might have messed the gasket up. so go slow there



I searched your post where you called Stihl. So it goes like a bowl?


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> I searched your post where you called Stihl. So it goes like a bowl?


That side up that why we gotta each other. A lot to it.






http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## morbius18

Bedford T said:


> That side up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info



Thanks, very helpful. I'll correct it tomorrow.


----------



## morbius18

If you look at the pic, on the right side you can see the gap. I wasnt able to get any feeler gauge between the case and the cylinder where it was hitting the transfer bulge.


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> If you look at the pic, on the right side you can see the gap. I wasnt able to get any feeler gauge between the case and the cylinder where it was hitting the transfer bulge.
> View attachment 635052


I encourage you to get some rest. If it's not sitting flat it's not going to sit right. It is already tight. I been where you are and it will iron out. No major problems have been reported like that so let's assume it the gasket, until it's not. 

The chances are very high it is

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## hacksaw11111

Imprzed205 said:


> My 660 kit had several problems. It had the wrong wrist pin, brake spring, no pin the the band and a clutch that wouldn't fit the crank.



What should the "pin in break band" look like?
edit - I see the pin in the bag, not attached. will it fall out? should I get another?

I got the wrong break spring too, but I got an OEM ahead of time thanks to bedfords suggestion.
Does your clutch have the wrong threads? mine screws on, think its ok.
Whats wrong with your wrist pin? I was going to order an OEM, but I must have forgot to, because I don't see it...did get the OEM bearing tho.


----------



## TheTone

Bedford T said:


> Caber only makes one material type for the MS660 and that type is *F CAST IRON (GH. F.). *made exclusively for nikasil. they do make a few models for husky with the I type material. no ms660 cabers rings are made any other way. a myth or a misunderstanding. dont mess up your farmertec with those outstanding rings. right product wrong application.



The Caber website lists two ring types for the 066:


G15H is the ring style:


Here is the Ebay listing from seller dandrikop in Greece:



I'm going to send him a message and make sure about this.


----------



## TheTone

Bedford T said:


> That side up that why we gotta each other. A lot to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info



That's one of those pictures that you can see both ways (raised edge up or down) depending on how your eye catches it. If you stare at it you make it flip.


----------



## Bedford T

TheTone said:


> That's one of those pictures that you can see both ways (raised edge up or down) depending on how your eye catches it. If you stare at it you make it flip.


Imagine a bowl. 

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

TheTone said:


> The Caber website lists two ring types for the 066:
> View attachment 635060
> 
> G15H is the ring style:
> View attachment 635062
> 
> Here is the Ebay listing from seller dandrikop in Greece:
> View attachment 635063
> 
> 
> I'm going to send him a message and make sure about this.


Go back to the website and find the list with ms660. The thing you are showing does not say a word about "I". The website is the expert.

Go back and click on the description of the materials. Two places. One tells you the model and the specs and the other described the material the specs give. Find a modern Stihl with an "I" material. Ain't one

That's all I got for you. Go with your heart












http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Imprzed205

Bedford T said:


> I encourage you to get some rest. If it's not sitting flat it's not going to sit right. It is already tight. I been where you are and it will iron out. No major problems have been reported like that so let's assume it the gasket, until it's not.
> 
> The chances are very high it is
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info



I highly doubt that's his problem. Even no gasket should have plenty of room. Just saying


----------



## Bedford T

hacksaw11111 said:


> What should the "pin in break band" look like?
> edit - I see the pin in the bag, not attached. will it fall out? should I get another?
> 
> I got the wrong break spring too, but I got an OEM ahead of time thanks to bedfords suggestion.
> Does your clutch have the wrong threads? mine screws on, think its ok.
> Whats wrong with your wrist pin? I was going to order an OEM, but I must have forgot to, because I don't see it...did get the OEM bearing tho.



The brake band should come with the pin in it. that band comes under high tension. i threw mine away. if you can not find one mounted i would head to the stihl store. if that pin you placed were to come out and get tossed around it could damage something or it could cause your brake fail.

the wrist pin is much lighter than the farmertec one. do you think your engine would benefit? i do and did and that why i recommended it. do you need it before you start kinda..so i told you and the world.

a few times i placed the screws in that odd hole before placing the jug and that helped i could wiggle it in and push it back up out of the way.


----------



## morbius18

I have a hard time sleeping, so I was at it during the wee hours this morning. 

I had a spare gasket/seal set and tried a different one, still leaking. Flipped both gaskets, still leaked. 



It was also bubbling through the back bolt hole:


I got out the gasket paper and cut one that matches the steel one, quite a bit better, but still small bubbles coming under.


I pulled the cylinder off and checked the base with a straight edge all across the cylinder and there is no noticable deformity and it appears flat with a straight edge and light. Did the same to the cylinder and it looks good to the naked eye. There is goid clearance after filing the transfer bulge. The base isnt hitting. The bolt holes are all drilled correctly and tapped to the end.

As a last resort I motosealed the paper gasket and cylinder and left it over night.




It sealed and held. Something is evidently not machined correctly. Could be both metal gaskets. But still slight seepage with paper leads me to believe it's not gasket related.


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> I have a hard time sleeping, so I was at it during the wee hours this morning.
> 
> I had a spare gasket/seal set and tried a different one, still leaking. Flipped both gaskets, still leaked.
> View attachment 635099
> 
> 
> It was also bubbling through the back bolt hole:
> View attachment 635100
> 
> I got out the gasket paper and cut one that matches the steel one, quite a bit better, but still small bubbles coming under.
> View attachment 635101
> 
> I pulled the cylinder off and checked the base with a straight edge all across the cylinder and there is no noticable deformity and it appears flat with a straight edge and light. Did the same to the cylinder and it looks good to the naked eye. There is goid clearance after filing the transfer bulge. The base isnt hitting. The bolt holes are all drilled correctly and tapped to the end.
> 
> As a last resort I motosealed the paper gasket and cylinder and left it over night.
> 
> View attachment 635102
> 
> 
> It sealed and held. Something is evidently not machined correctly. Could be both metal gaskets. But still slight seepage with paper leads me to believe it's not gasket related.


I am guilty of being optimistic. Just so you know. The gasket should be installed correctly. I heard what you said.

Second on more than one I had trouble getting it to seal, so I started using sealant on every one.

So you are good, except if you did not use gasket material that was anything other than 0.5mm then I think you should check your squish. Stihl also had a 660 gasket 1.0mm

Good job

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

Can you imagine now people that don't do the tests? Lol

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## morbius18

I checked it with both, just omitted it. The paper gasket is .030 thick vs the steel .020. But doesn't compress as much I'm sure.

It's sitting at .022 with the paper and sealant.

Thanks for keeping that in mind for me, though.


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> I checked it with both, just omitted it. The paper gasket is .030 thick vs the steel .020. But doesn't compress as much I'm sure.
> 
> It's sitting at .022 with the paper and sealant.
> 
> Thanks for keeping that in mind for me, though.


This is a public forum. Others come read the questions and answers. My thread and it's purpose is educating kit builders. First time people who wanna but never done it before.

So don't let that hurt your feelings. And your calipers are off. The kit gasket is .5mm

If I let it go people would walk away with the wrong info. My pledge to myself was not let that happen.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## morbius18

Here's where I'm at now:




I also had a few difficulties. The clutch drum seems to have had the pump drive wire slot cut too shallow. It was pushing it down and causing it to hit the case and stop. I dremeled it deeper. The included bearing was really tight. I test fitted it and had to pry the drum off. I used another that I had ordered previously from huztl.

I also had an unknown o-ring. It's not the chain tensioner one, or the one for the oil pump. I had a few extra pieces that had already been installed on the handle.

Any ideas on this one?


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> Here's where I'm at now:
> View attachment 635152
> View attachment 635153
> 
> 
> I also had a few difficulties. The clutch drum seems to have had the pump drive wire slot cut too shallow. It was pushing it down and causing it to hit the case and stop. I dremeled it deeper. The included bearing was really tight. I test fitted it and had to pry the drum off. I used another that I had ordered previously from huztl.
> 
> I also had an unknown o-ring. It's not the chain tensioner one, or the one for the oil pump. I had a few extra pieces that had already been installed on the handle.
> 
> Any ideas on this one?
> View attachment 635154


Oil pump. There are extras where it came pre installed

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## morbius18

Bedford T said:


> This is a public forum. Others come read the questions and answers. My thread and it's purpose is educating kit builders. First time people who wanna but never done it before.
> 
> So don't let that hurt your feelings. And your calipers are off. The kit gasket is .5mm
> 
> If I let it go people would walk away with the wrong info. My pledge to myself was not let that happen.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info



.020" is .5mm
I also occasionally check my feeler gauges to verify, and while its a cheaper gauge, it matches.

I'm not trying to be satcastic either, I really meant the thanks for keeping me in mind.


----------



## Bedford T

i went and checked mine and it is off. course i know that. i need to get one thats closer.


----------



## morbius18

Metric to inch conversions... lol


----------



## golddredgergold

Ok ordered my 660 a few days back on eBay through machinesdoctor. They marked as shipped with a number I have never seen before config wise. When tracked it comes up with Japan post. And no record found of the item. Is this normal will it eventually end up showing some tracking? Has anyone else felt with this?


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Ok ordered my 660 a few days back on eBay through machinesdoctor. They marked as shipped with a number I have never seen before config wise. When tracked it comes up with Japan post. And no record found of the item. Is this normal will it eventually end up showing some tracking? Has anyone else felt with this?


Welcome, Where are you? Japan?

The way it works normally to the states is the carrier will March it through customs in china, put it on a plane and when it gets to New York and goes through us customs then it gets assigned to a us carrier like ups or FedEx USPS. So when it gets to New York give it 36 hours and call the original shipper us customer service phone number and ask for your new tracking number and then you can track it to your house.

Aftership works good for getting to new york

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## golddredgergold

I am in California. This tracking they provided is lame. I will message them right now.


Note: I just messaged through ebay that the Japan post number they provided is no good. I wish to get the correct number. We will see what the response is


----------



## morbius18

golddredgergold said:


> Ok ordered my 660 a few days back on eBay through machinesdoctor. They marked as shipped with a number I have never seen before config wise. When tracked it comes up with Japan post. And no record found of the item. Is this normal will it eventually end up showing some tracking? Has anyone else felt with this?



I've only bought 1 off ebay from hlsproparts. The others I've gotten from huztl.net, so I cannot help you with that, sorry.


----------



## morbius18

Bedford T said:


> Having a kit you paid for misdelivered would be maddening. Can you get an answer why. Never heard of that.
> 
> But thanks for sharing
> 
> Sorry on the delay
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info



Their response is almost comical. It's like buying a new car, having it delivered with a busted trunk and the dealer telling you that it will work anyway. Try it out.

Dear Sir,
Thank you for your message.
And sorry for the late reply, because we have a long vacation of Chinese New Year.

And sorry for the transportation problem.
We hope you can understand, friend. The problem might be caused on the way,
it is an incontrollable problem.
But we think it could not affect using, hope you can have a try.
Thanks for your understanding and patience.
Have a nice day!


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> I've only bought 1 off ebay from hlsproparts. The others I've gotten from huztl.net, so I cannot help you with that, sorry.


That is how it works with huztl.net and shipping by air in general. If you look at the shipping history that will show up as how it's handled. Did you know arbortec.net is HL FarmerTec operation? Drop ships from FarmerTec

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> Their response is almost comical. It's like buying a new car, having it delivered with a busted trunk and the dealer telling you that it will work anyway. Try it out.
> 
> Dear Sir,
> Thank you for your message.
> And sorry for the late reply, because we have a long vacation of Chinese New Year.
> 
> And sorry for the transportation problem.
> We hope you can understand, friend. The problem might be caused on the way,
> it is an incontrollable problem.
> But we think it could not affect using, hope you can have a try.
> Thanks for your understanding and patience.
> Have a nice day!


Open a case. Only action is when it's forced. People are shooting themselves and then the next guy in both feet when they walk away.

It must be real bizzare there in how workers are treated. They will blame their workers when they are not blaming the shippers. If I get it and it's broke it's their fault and hell no I will not be ok with it.

But that just me apparently

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## morbius18

I'm still in the email stage. I've sent them pics about the cylinder hitting and gasket not sealing. Gotta wait until 1am eastern time for them to answer in China time.


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> I'm still in the email stage. I've sent them pics about the cylinder hitting and gasket not sealing. Gotta wait until 1am eastern time for them to answer in China time.


You got it tight. That is how it works. Using dirko does not make it bad.

This is why they do what they do. I thought you meant damage They read the forums. So they saw you say you sealed it. They saw you say you had gasket upside down. They been out but they will see it.

Everybody got an angle. [emoji849]

The photo shows how little space there is. The thickness of paper. Enough.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## morbius18

Bedford T said:


> You got it tight. That is how it works. Using dirko does not make it bad.
> 
> This is why they do what they do. I thought you meant damage They read the forums. So they saw you say you sealed it. They saw you say you had gasket upside down. They been out but they will see it.
> 
> Everybody got an angle. [emoji849]
> 
> The photo shows how little space there is. The thickness of paper. Enough.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


I'm primarily concerned with the damage, but something is off for a gasket to not seal when clamped across a flat surface, especially a paper one, it should conform to slight irregularities. Part of it is to inform them, but the broken part, and delivering it to a ups store with no instructions or contact for me.

But if I pay 85+ for shipping and they skimp with their end, it is worth pursuing. Last order I got (440) was DHL, to my door for cheaper and in 8 days. This one was 20 days, more expensive, delivered randomly that required multiple calls/emails, detective work, a drive and a wait to be helped, for more!?

I know I'm getting what I paid for, not a 1200+ Stihl, but I'm also not afraid to call BS when I see it. Even if they see it.


----------



## MG porting

OK this is a all farmertec and I have seen this time and time again even with oem cases with am cylinders on the flywheel side there are times that you will have to do some clearensing on the case so that way the transfer port doesn't touch the case some times you get lucky and you don't have to go through this but sometimes you do........


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> You got it tight. That is how it works. Using dirko does not make it bad.
> 
> This is why they do what they do. I thought you meant damage They read the forums. So they saw you say you sealed it. They saw you say you had gasket upside down. They been out but they will see it.
> 
> Everybody got an angle. [emoji849]
> 
> The photo shows how little space there is. The thickness of paper. Enough.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


On my back up ms660 it was bad enough to where you couldn't get anything in there so I had no choice but to give it some room.


----------



## morbius18

Got it put together and attempted to start it. It will kick over, but not idle. I can get it to sometimes, but it is fast, like its lean. I tried a walbro carb and same thing. 

I'll be tearing it back down to see where it is leaking from.


----------



## morbius18

morbius18 said:


> Got it put together and attempted to start it. It will kick over, but not idle. I can get it to sometimes, but it is fast, like its lean. I tried a walbro carb and same thing.
> 
> I'll be tearing it back down to see where it is leaking from.



Discovered 2 problems. 

First was the farmertec decomp was randomly venting. You could pull the recoil and hear it hissing when it was closed.

Second was a massive vacuum leak where I forgot to attach the impulse line to the crankcase.

Makes me feel better now. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to start it though, family is in bed.


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> Discovered 2 problems.
> 
> First was the farmertec decomp was randomly venting. You could pull the recoil and hear it hissing when it was closed.
> 
> Second was a massive vacuum leak where I forgot to attach the impulse line to the crankcase.
> 
> Makes me feel better now. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to start it though, family is in bed.


Get rid of the farmertec decompression valve that thing will rowen your year!!!!


----------



## Marco

I scattered it out, grabbed the tube of Hylomar......replaced some off parts and go.
Why all this hurt?


----------



## golddredgergold

Good news. Carrie got right back to me and gave me a link the shipper SFexpress.com and the number they provided is a way bill number. So I tracked it via that number and its on the way. So pretty stoked


----------



## morbius18

golddredgergold said:


> Good news. Carrie got right back to me and gave me a link the shipper SFexpress.com and the number they provided is a way bill number. So I tracked it via that number and its on the way. So pretty stoked



SF express is who shipped mine too.


----------



## morbius18

I took some shots last night of the 660 next to the 440 kit saw:


----------



## TheTone

Bedford T,
After contacting the seller and studying the Caber website, I concluded that:

Caber makes two ring types for the 066/MS660: the F-cast (more expensive) and STD ("regular" cast iron rings)
The rings I have are STD
The seller is wrong about any of the Stihl rings being I-cast 

Hope that clears it up


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> I took some shots last night of the 660 next to the 440 kit saw:
> View attachment 635384
> View attachment 635385
> View attachment 635386


They look great.


----------



## MG porting

TheTone said:


> Bedford T,
> After contacting the seller and studying the Caber website, I concluded that:
> 
> Caber makes two ring types for the 066/MS660: the F-cast (more expensive) and STD ("regular" cast iron rings)
> The rings I have are STD
> The seller is wrong about any of the Stihl rings being I-cast
> 
> Hope that clears it up


That is good to know that's for sure.


----------



## morbius18

MG porting said:


> Get rid of the farmertec decompression valve that thing will rowen your year!!!!



You can see on the cylinder where the decomp was blowing by during my attempted running. The valve pictured in there is a Stihl one I borrowed from another saw, farmertec got chunked. Thought out was a neat pic.



I'mactually suprised I actually got it running without an impulse and random compression loss.


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> You can see on the cylinder where the decomp was blowing by during my attempted running. The valve pictured in there is a Stihl one I borrowed from another saw, farmertec got chunked. Thought out was a neat pic.
> View attachment 635426
> 
> 
> I'mactually suprised I actually got it running without an impulse and random compression loss.


Yea they will run for a bit without impulse just not very good. Lol. How's it running now??


----------



## morbius18

Haven't touched it yet. Helping my wife out...


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> Haven't touched it yet. Helping my wife out...


Yep I know how that go's. Lol


----------



## hacksaw11111

TheTone said:


> That's one of those pictures that you can see both ways (raised edge up or down) depending on how your eye catches it. If you stare at it you make it flip.



The raised part goes down into the crankcase right? That is the "bowl" correct? thx!


----------



## hacksaw11111

should the oiler metal piece touch the case? should I trim it if it does?

also, can i use the kit worm , plastic part and metal part, with the HO oiler? it didn't come with one


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> should the oiler metal piece touch the case? should I trim it if it does?
> 
> also, can i use the kit worm , plastic part and metal part, with the HO oiler? it didn't come with one


Need to take a picture for us so we can make out what you are trying to do exactly. And yes you can use the farmertec worm gear.


----------



## morbius18

hacksaw11111 said:


> should the oiler metal piece touch the case? should I trim it if it does?
> 
> also, can i use the kit worm , plastic part and metal part, with the HO oiler? it didn't come with one



Mine was doing the same thing. There is a milled "groove" that is runs between. My clutch drum was pushing it down and hitting the case on the bottom of the "groove". 

I had to dremel the slot in the clutch drum deeper so it wouldn't push it down.


----------



## morbius18

hacksaw11111 said:


> should the oiler metal piece touch the case? should I trim it if it does?
> 
> also, can i use the kit worm , plastic part and metal part, with the HO oiler? it didn't come with one



I don't know if yours is too long or too deep like mine was. If you dont have it deep enough into the pump it wont ride in the right spot.

This is the groove I was referring to. You can see the pin.



I had to cut the slot into the clutch drum 4mm deep. It was like 2 and pushing the follower down.


----------



## hacksaw11111

I didn't get to the clutch yet, I'll check that thx
The metal part shown below (oiler part) was rubbing on the case when it turns. It's too long, I ground some off. What does the metal rod part do? Does it move? I'm not sure what it's function is


----------



## morbius18

hacksaw11111 said:


> I didn't get to the clutch yet, I'll check that thx
> The metal part shown below (oiler part) was rubbing on the case when it turns. It's too long, I ground some off. What does the metal rod part do? Does it move? I'm not sure what it's function is
> View attachment 635514



It rides in the slot on the clutch drum and turns the gear in the oil pump. It's the oil pump driver.


----------



## morbius18

MG porting said:


> Yep I know how that go's. Lol



Got it running. Started on the 3rd pull. Running like a scalded dog. I'll try to put it into wood tomorrow after church and if it's not raining to adjust it a little more and break it in.

My friend wants to buy it, but the price I told him prior to ordering it (he wanted to checheck it out first), isn't a clone saw with Walbro carb price. I'll switch it out tomorrow and compare how it runs with both.


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> Got it running. Started on the 3rd pull. Running like a scalded dog. I'll try to put it into wood tomorrow after church and if it's not raining to adjust it a little more and break it in.
> 
> My friend wants to buy it, but the price I told him prior to ordering it (he wanted to checheck it out first), isn't a clone saw with Walbro carb price. I'll switch it out tomorrow and compare how it runs with both.


That's great news but I'm sure you wont sell the saw you've got the best to daisies ms440 and ms660 or just sell it and buy another one for fun. Lol.


----------



## morbius18

MG porting said:


> That's great news but I'm sure you wont sell the saw you've got the best to daisies ms440 and ms660 or just sell it and buy another one for fun. Lol.



Their 440 kit saw is really mean too. It came with the big bore cylinder, I omitted the base gasket, had the bottom milled to give me .018" squish, filed the flywheel key to advance timing, removed muffler baffle, port matched and cleaned out the ports. It has tons of power and is lighter.


----------



## hacksaw11111

morbius18 said:


> I don't know if yours is too long or too deep like mine was. If you dont have it deep enough into the pump it wont ride in the right spot.
> 
> This is the groove I was referring to. You can see the pin.
> View attachment 635505
> 
> 
> I had to cut the slot into the clutch drum 4mm deep. It was like 2 and pushing the follower down.
> 
> View attachment 635506


Had to cut the clutch deeper too, thx!


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> Their 440 kit saw is really mean too. It came with the big bore cylinder, I omitted the base gasket, had the bottom milled to give me .018" squish, filed the flywheel key to advance timing, removed muffler baffle, port matched and cleaned out the ports. It has tons of power and is lighter.


Yea i built the ms440 to ran it for six months and sold it to a friend i ported it and it ran strong as well and still is.


----------



## hacksaw11111

Anyone have problems with the clutch drum? mine won't go on, too tight. the bearing binds. bearings go on shaft and in drum, but not together

other videos, look like it drops right in

I saw this video, does ti sound like a good idea?


----------



## hacksaw11111

My crank shaft is at .394" and the drum is at .628" , can someone check theirs? have both FT and sthil oem bearing, same issue with both


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> Anyone have problems with the clutch drum? mine won't go on, too tight. the bearing binds. bearings go on shaft and in drum, but not together
> 
> other videos, look like it drops right in
> 
> I saw this video, does ti sound like a good idea?



I would just go with a orange drum and be done with it but that's just me..


----------



## MG porting

MG porting said:


> I would just go with a orange drum and be done with it but that's just me..


Oregon drum. Lol


----------



## hacksaw11111

Ya, I didn't hear of this issue, was trying to finish it today...I need a lathe haha. It's really binding on the bearing. Should it just slip on easily?

Gonna piss me off to wait another week or two for a new drum to come


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> Ya, I didn't hear of this issue, was trying to finish it today...I need a lathe haha. It's really binding on the bearing. Should it just slip on easily?
> 
> Gonna piss me off to wait another week or two for a new drum to come


Yea it should go on your not the only one that's had this problem you can try to hone it out a little and see how it goes just take it slow. A little go's a long ways. Lol


----------



## hacksaw11111

Do you happen to have the oregon part number? I don't want to buy the wrong one...looks like there are a few different ones.

I may take it in to work and see if i can persuade someone in the machine shop to work it...

I'd probably just get it out of round with the dremmel


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> Do you happen to have the oregon part number? I don't want to buy the wrong one...looks like there are a few different ones.
> 
> I may take it in to work and see if i can persuade someone in the machine shop to work it...
> 
> I'd probably just get it out of round with the dremmel


Well trying to find the part number and not doing so well finding it I know it's out there some where. Lol


----------



## hacksaw11111

MG porting said:


> Well trying to find the part number and not doing so well finding it I know it's out there some where. Lol


Is this right? thx!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OREGON-Clu...hash=item43b3f2364d:m:m_TO1fLKWsSLim3Fwmu3a6A


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> Is this right? thx!
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/OREGON-Clu...hash=item43b3f2364d:m:m_TO1fLKWsSLim3Fwmu3a6A


Yep not really sure why I ccouldn' find it i was just on ebay looking. Lol


----------



## hacksaw11111

piston ring bevel - should the bevel go up or down?

The through holes weren't finished in my cylinder head...man the quality control is pretty bad.


----------



## hacksaw11111

You guys who use dirko - It seams to skim over really fast. how do you apply it? just under the piston seal? or do you get the jug over the rings and put some on top as well?

Does the 1187 set up as fast? The dirko is hard to work with with the fast set time


----------



## Bedford T

hacksaw11111 said:


> piston ring bevel - should the bevel go up or down?
> 
> The through holes weren't finished in my cylinder head...man the quality control is pretty bad.


See the videos. Only one way to do it. It's way the fit the pins.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

hacksaw11111 said:


> You guys who use dirko - It seams to skim over really fast. how do you apply it? just under the piston seal? or do you get the jug over the rings and put some on top as well?
> 
> Does the 1187 set up as fast? The dirko is hard to work with with the fast set time


You got about 20 minutes. Don't apply it ahead of time. Use only a small bead. When you are finished. Set the nozzle aside and when it dries it will pull right out of nozzle and be ready for next time. I put a small bead on both sides.

Put it on case and set the gasket, apply dirko to the top side of gasket, use a nail to line up holes and put the intake side bolts in cylinder and then place the cylinder and tighten crisscross.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## hacksaw11111

Bedford T said:


> See the videos. Only one way to do it. It's way the fit the pins.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


What video? bevel up or down? thx


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> piston ring bevel - should the bevel go up or down?
> 
> The through holes weren't finished in my cylinder head...man the quality control is pretty bad.


The bevel faces up if you but the bevel down the rings will bind they need to fit the alignment pins on the piston or bad things will happen.


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> What video? bevel up or down? thx


Like Bedford T seed watch the videos you can go on YouTube and watch Bedford Ts step by step how to's


----------



## hacksaw11111

delete


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> delete


??? ?


----------



## hacksaw11111

I figured out my question haha...heres one tho. how does this am heat tape go?


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> I figured out my question haha...heres one tho. how does this am heat tape go?


Going by the picture the left of the picture side go's tword the flywheel side


----------



## morbius18

hacksaw11111 said:


> Ya, I didn't hear of this issue, was trying to finish it today...I need a lathe haha. It's really binding on the bearing. Should it just slip on easily?
> 
> Gonna piss me off to wait another week or two for a new drum to come



I had other bearings that I used instead. If check your Stihl dealee for one. My second one fit, just tight.

I put the drum on first and its a little easier to slide the bearing into the drum.


----------



## morbius18

hacksaw11111 said:


> You guys who use dirko - It seams to skim over really fast. how do you apply it? just under the piston seal? or do you get the jug over the rings and put some on top as well?
> 
> Does the 1187 set up as fast? The dirko is hard to work with with the fast set time



For what its worth I use permatex motoseal. It's made for 2strokes and can be exposed to gas.


----------



## morbius18

I'm no longer the owner of the 660. Took it by the saw shop to get my friend to double check my carb setting and I was offered cash on the spot by the owner's brother. He knew it was a clone. Said he didn't care, they dont use the 660s real often, just 461s. Hopefully it will give insight into longevity and durability saw.


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> I'm no longer the owner of the 660. Took it by the saw shop to get my friend to double check my carb setting and I was offered cash on the spot by the owner's brother. He knew it was a clone. Said he didn't care, they dont use the 660s real often, just 461s. Hopefully it will give insight into longevity and durability saw.


Well you've got cash now to buy another one.


----------



## hacksaw11111

morbius18 said:


> I had other bearings that I used instead. If check your Stihl dealee for one.  My second one fit, just tight.
> 
> I put the drum on first and its a little easier to slide the bearing into the drum.


Mine is definitely the drum(or crankshaft), I had oem bearings too. Got an Oregon drum otw, hopefully it's the drum and not the crankshaft bc I have the saw mostly together


----------



## golddredgergold

Just to confirm the HO oil pump is part # 1122 640 3201? I am trying to find one on ebay and having not much luck. I will keep poking around. Lots of 1125 and or 3205 models.


----------



## hacksaw11111

golddredgergold said:


> Just to confirm the HO oil pump is part # 1122 640 3201? I am trying to find one on ebay and having not much luck. I will keep poking around. Lots of 1125 and or 3205 models.


Looks sold out, you can message the guy and see when he's getting more
https://www.ebay.com/usr/internationalsystemsandequipment?_trksid=p2047675.l2559


----------



## hacksaw11111

Flywheel torque - just confirming this...I watched a video where the guy said 20ft-lbs, 
looks like it should be 33. 

Does everyone use a rope (starter cord)? I'm reading some ppl say not to? what else would I use? 

*Newton-meters* *Foot-pounds*
45 Nm 33.19 ft-lb


----------



## Bedford T

hacksaw11111 said:


> Flywheel torque - just confirming this...I watched a video where the guy said 20ft-lbs,
> looks like it should be 33.
> 
> Does everyone use a rope (starter cord)? I'm reading some ppl say not to? what else would I use?
> 
> *Newton-meters* *Foot-pounds*
> 45 Nm 33.19 ft-lb
> 
> View attachment 636170


Rope might be better. You can keep it out of the ports/transfers easier. They make a thing for that. I would not use metal.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> Flywheel torque - just confirming this...I watched a video where the guy said 20ft-lbs,
> looks like it should be 33.
> 
> Does everyone use a rope (starter cord)? I'm reading some ppl say not to? what else would I use?
> 
> *Newton-meters* *Foot-pounds*
> 45 Nm 33.19 ft-lb
> 
> View attachment 636170


Thats how I do it just make sure that the piston is up covering the ports and feed the rope in through the spark plug hole it's has some kush to it so its the safer way of doing it.


----------



## Marco

Had Oddjob out blocking, tweeked the carb some. You all just a bunch of bench racers? Cripes, I threw it together and it goes.


----------



## Bedford T

Marco said:


> Had Oddjob out blocking, tweeked the carb some. You all just a bunch of bench racers? Cripes, I threw it together and it goes.


They are just living the dream Marco. Out loud! Oddjob that's a good name. See you named your pet.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> They are just living the dream Marco. Out loud! Oddjob that's a good name. See you named your pet.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Bench racing is fun but when the card's come down its all about pride and confidence. Lol.


----------



## Marco

40 years ago Father paid more for the 041 Farmboss than what I have in Oddjob.


----------



## Bedford T

Marco said:


> 40 years ago Father paid more for the 041 Farmboss than what I have in Oddjob.


You built odd job, so that's a big difference. I put my saw together with care, I did not just throw it together and adjust the carb and run it. I put a lot of thought in it so it has a chance to last 40 years. These things can last a long time

That will be awesome if I can get a long time out of it. I am not getting talked out of this saw. Lol

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T you seed you tried a hyway on your ms660 right did you check the squish on it just curious ?


----------



## Bedford T

In fact I might be like MG and need a backup 660. Lol

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Marco

So other than like 12 cuts on your videos, we don't know how your saws held up?


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Bedford T you seed you tried a hyway on your ms660 right did you check the squish on it just curious ?


No. It had quite a bite of compression. The guy that got it is using it in a tree service. I put cabers in it. Used it straight up. I wish I had gone with a hyway on this one rather than the troubled cross. Won't make that mistake again. When I wear this top out I will look at it again.

Have you got your hands on yours yet?

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

Marco said:


> So other than like 12 cuts on your videos, we don't know how your saws held up?


I was talking like 40 years. None have died. The one I have now almost. I spent about a month trying to figure out why I could not pull it. It was that crap cross cylinder. This new one maybe has an hour on it. If I had not caught it it would have melted down on the third tank from what happened to others.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> In fact I might be like MG and need a backup 660. Lol
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Lol.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> No. It had quite a bite of compression. The guy that got it is using it in a tree service. I put cabers in it. Used it straight up. I wish I had gone with a hyway on this one rather than the troubled cross. Won't make that mistake again. When I wear this top out I will look at it again.
> 
> Have you got your hands on yours yet?
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


No not yet I have to wait for payday. Lol.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I was talking like 40 years. None have died. The one I have now almost. I spent about a month trying to figure out why I could not pull it. It was that crap cross cylinder. This new one maybe has an hour on it. If I had not caught it it would have melted down on the third tank from what happened to others.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Glad Im going with the Hyway but even that I will be doing some work to it


----------



## Bedford T

Kit builders I just read something on sprockets and saw setup. if you have never read this article you should. It addressed bar sizes and I had never seen an article that gave me a "scientific" way to judge what is appropriate for the size saw. Stuff like clutch wear, etc. And understanding this would be helpful to us. I wish they had a store in the SE US. They would likely starve here, but it would be cool to have access. 
atricle is *Performance Sprocket Tuning*
@ madsen1.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Kit builders I just read something on sprockets and saw setup. if you have never read this article you should. It addressed bar sizes and I had never seen an article that gave me a "scientific" way to judge what is appropriate for the size saw. Stuff like clutch wear, etc. And understanding this would be helpful to us. I wish they had a store in the SE US. They would likely starve here, but it would be cool to have access.
> atricle is *Performance Sprocket Tuning*
> @ madsen1.com


Sounds good.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Sounds good.


Square ground .63 3/8 7t sprocket on s 28" bar for my ms440. I thought 24 was a far as I could go. Feeling festy

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Square ground .63 3/8 7t sprocket on s 28" bar for my ms440. I thought 24 was a far as I could go. Feeling festy
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Yea my 044 always had a 28in bar on it and and my farmertec ms440 know swett on power they love the 28.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Yea my 044 always had a 28in bar on it and and my farmertec ms440 know swett on power they love the 28.


Yes sir that was secretly my point. My 440 yearned to be more. Lol that's way cool. I just could not be sure. Am now.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## golddredgergold

Alright got my 660 kit delivered today!
Went through the parts list with a fine tooth comb. I have question for you guys. 

part number 1128 664 1001 #21 in the parts diagrahm I did not get. Instead I have 1128 664 1002 or #20 in the picture. is this an alternative part? All my other Stihl saws run the thin metal chain guide on both sides. Does this saw only run one on the engine side?
Other than the above everything was in the box nothing missing. I did get the wrong brake spring the 440 one offset. But I had ordered one and already have it. So set on that. So ready to get on this build starting tomorrow.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Alright got my 660 kit delivered today!
> Went through the parts list with a fine tooth comb. I have question for you guys.
> 
> part number 1128 664 1001 #21 in the parts diagrahm I did not get. Instead I have 1128 664 1002 or #20 in the picture. is this an alternative part? All my other Stihl saws run the thin metal chain guide on both sides. Does this saw only run one on the engine side?
> Other than the above everything was in the box nothing missing. I did get the wrong brake spring the 440 one offset. But I had ordered one and already have it. So set on that. So ready to get on this build starting tomorrow.
> 
> View attachment 636713



They just have one plate here if my memory serves me. The part 1002 was when they used old way. It does not have rounded holes. Order you the right one. 1001 .9mm. Glad you got it. Get a good night's sleep it will be a blur by Saturday night.

edit: They are insane. That's the definition of insane repeating the same mistake over and over and never get a different outcome. They need to put a 660 spring in box too at least

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## golddredgergold

This is the one I got in the picture which is .47mm thick. I am going to order this one on ebay in the link? Is this correct?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/132134002757


----------



## golddredgergold

So I must have the correct one as the holes are round but its very thin? I assumed it was 1001 but it matched the stihl diagram #20 just to thin? I see now 1002 has square holes. So I got the correct design of plate its just .47mm thick not .9mm.


----------



## hacksaw11111

Got my saw together, minus the chain deflector they didn't send...do they reply to messages? I sent a list of missing/ incorrect parts, no response.

Anyway my saw won't chooch. Is there a way I can check if it's getting spark? I put an ngk plug in. Sprayed some starting fluid in as well, nothing. Thinking it's the electrical.

Had the choke all the way down... didn't even burb once


----------



## Bedford T

Where did you send it?

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

hacksaw11111 said:


> Got my saw together, minus the chain deflector they didn't send...do they reply to messages? I sent a list of missing/ incorrect parts, no response.
> 
> Anyway my saw won't chooch. Is there a way I can check if it's getting spark? I put an ngk plug in. Sprayed some starting fluid in as well, nothing. Thinking it's the electrical.
> 
> Had the choke all the way down... didn't even burb once


Did you pressure vacuum test the saw and fuel circuit?

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## golddredgergold

hacksaw11111 said:


> Got my saw together, minus the chain deflector they didn't send...do they reply to messages? I sent a list of missing/ incorrect parts, no response.
> 
> Anyway my saw won't chooch. Is there a way I can check if it's getting spark? I put an ngk plug in. Sprayed some starting fluid in as well, nothing. Thinking it's the electrical.
> 
> Had the choke all the way down... didn't even burb once


You pull the plug out leave it plugged into the coil and set it against the head/cylinder. Pull the rope and see if the plug sparks. Make sure the plug is grounded and touching the head for sure.


----------



## hacksaw11111

golddredgergold said:


> You pull the plug out leave it plugged into the coil and set it against the head/cylinder. Pull the rope and see if the plug sparks. Make sure the plug is grounded and touching the head for sure.


Thanks, I didn't see anything. Guess I got a bad coil...


----------



## hacksaw11111

Does anyone have a direct email to someone at huztl? not getting a response though the web form...sent a few messages over two weeks. thanks


----------



## dswensen

hacksaw11111 said:


> Thanks, I didn't see anything. Guess I got a bad coil...



Did you make sure the ignition switch was in the "run" position when you checked for spark? If it was "off" - no spark for sure. Don't ask me how many times I have done THAT! Also, I seem to recall that the spark plug cap contactor in the spark plug boot is a bit wonky. Give it a good look to make sure it connects well with the plug cap when all is together.


----------



## hacksaw11111

dswensen said:


> Did you make sure the ignition switch was in the "run" position when you checked for spark? If it was "off" - no spark for sure. Don't ask me how many times I have done THAT! Also, I seem to recall that the spark plug cap contactor in the spark plug boot is a bit wonky. Give it a good look to make sure it connects well with the plug cap when all is together.


I had the switch all the way down, full choke
I may take it apart and see if the shut off contacts are screwed up


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> I had the switch all the way down, full choke
> I may take it apart and see if the shut off contacts are screwed up


So did you get a chance to see what was going on with your saw today?


----------



## golddredgergold

Hey also forgot to mention my new kit came with the west coast cover to. I did not order that just bought the kit and that's what came. Pretty cool.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Hey also forgot to mention my new kit came with the west coast cover to. I did not order that just bought the kit and that's what came. Pretty cool.


That's awesome lucky you.


----------



## morbius18

I've got a second kit that should be here soon. Entered the US today.


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> I've got a second kit that should be here soon. Entered the US today.


Told you would end up getting another one. Lol.


----------



## hacksaw11111

MG porting said:


> So did you get a chance to see what was going on with your saw today?


no, ordered a new coil. totally flooded it try to start it, gas came out the exhaust. hopefully it will start with the coil. all these add on parts are starting to add up...this thing better run! haha


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> no, ordered a new coil. totally flooded it try to start it, gas came out the exhaust. hopefully it will start with the coil. all these add on parts are starting to add up...this thing better run! haha


It will be OK she will run coils are hit or miss oem to.


----------



## morbius18

MG porting said:


> Told you would end up getting another one. Lol.



This one is for the 'friend' this time.


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> This one is for the 'friend' this time.


Well then you might as well oder one more for yourself just for backup that's what I did just so I don't have to break out the 064.


----------



## morbius18

I'll try to get me an OEM 064/066 first then use the 660 as a backup


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> I'll try to get me an OEM 064/066 first then use the 660 as a backup


Lol. Yea I would do that to but but where I'm at the 064s are hard to come by so I'd rather where out the ms660.


----------



## Bedford T

I took mine to help a neighbor. My role, drop the tree, they were going to clean it up with their little saws. I heat cycled it and it got its final tune today. My first chain sharpening went well too. This one has a big lope. I pray that that bad cylinder did not throw it out of wack. I later buried the bar and it did great. But man does she wobble. That carb is so close to right at one full turn out it will throw you off. Don't have to move it much. I really happy with it.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I took mine to help a neighbor. My role, drop the tree, they were going to clean it up with their little saws. I heat cycled it and it got its final tune today. My first chain sharpening went well too. This one has a big lope. I pray that that bad cylinder did not throw it out of wack. I later buried the bar and it did great. But man does she wobble. That carb is so close to right at one full turn out it will throw you off. Don't have to move it much. I really happy with it.



She sounds good sounds about right on your tune good job Bedford T.


----------



## golddredgergold

Ok putting my engine together. I bought the stihl oem wrist pin, bearing, and clips. I went to assemble them and the wrist pin is perfect but the bearing fits the wrist pin and piston but to small for the con rod? So I mock up with the included bearing. The included farmer bearing is the same inside diameter but much larger outside. Where did I go wrong? Pic is of the supposed stihl oem ms 6660 bearing. It to thin and to wide. If I need a side by side with the farmer bearing I can get that.


----------



## hacksaw11111

golddredgergold said:


> Ok putting my engine together. I bought the stihl oem wrist pin, bearing, and clips. I went to assemble them and the wrist pin is perfect but the bearing fits the wrist pin and piston but to small for the con rod? So I mock up with the included bearing. The included farmer bearing is the same inside diameter but much larger outside. Where did I go wrong? Pic is of the supposed stihl oem ms 6660 bearing. It to thin and to wide. If I need a side by side with the farmer bearing I can get that.View attachment 637552
> View attachment 637553


There are two bearings, make sure you have the right one. I used oem bearings but ft wrist pin. Then again your connecting rod hole maybe out of spec, who knows, I've had a few parts not fit right.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Ok putting my engine together. I bought the stihl oem wrist pin, bearing, and clips. I went to assemble them and the wrist pin is perfect but the bearing fits the wrist pin and piston but to small for the con rod? So I mock up with the included bearing. The included farmer bearing is the same inside diameter but much larger outside. Where did I go wrong? Pic is of the supposed stihl oem ms 6660 bearing. It to thin and to wide. If I need a side by side with the farmer bearing I can get that.View attachment 637552
> View attachment 637553


That's not a oem bearing all the oem Stihl bearings that I've ever used are gold in color .......


----------



## golddredgergold

hacksaw11111 said:


> There are two bearings, make sure you have the right one. I used oem bearings but ft wrist pin. Then again your connecting rod hole maybe out of spec, who knows, I've had a few parts not fit right.


Not out of spec these are clearly 2 very different bearings for sure
I will pop the cylinder off in a bit and get a side by side comparison picture.


----------



## golddredgergold

MG porting said:


> That's not a oem bearing all the oem Stihl bearings that I've ever used are gold in color .......


This one is gold in color just a bad picture for color.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> This one is gold in color just a bad picture for color.


OK well very weird did you check to if the oem Stihl ristpin was different if you have one?


----------



## golddredgergold

Ok here is the pic. Farmertec right the stihl I bought left. The inner dia. Is exactly the same but width and outer are not. Farmer fit with wrist pin perfect in pic. Stihl same wrist pin 1/8" gap.


----------



## cre73

I could be very wrong but that sure looks like a Stihl clutch bearing to me.


----------



## hacksaw11111

The Stihl and ft we're identical...check your stihl part number, think you got the wrong one
Piston 9512 003 3281 1 Needle cage 12x17x13

Clutch Needle Bearing 10x16x13 9512 933 2382


----------



## Bedford T

The part numbers may not do you any good, might, but if it was in the wrong bin and a bad label/pick you just need to return it. 

Could be wrong model piston bearing, could be clutch bearing of correct model.

You know it does not work and it should, sorry that happened to you

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> The part numbers may not do you any good, might, but if it was in the wrong bin and a bad label/pick you just need to return it.
> 
> Could be wrong model piston bearing, could be clutch bearing of correct model.
> 
> You know it does not work and it should, sorry that happened to you
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Aw it happens dont be sorry. I am starting to think its May be a clutch bearing. I am going to pull my 041 stihl and see if it will fit. It needs a new one anyway. Then today I will stop by the local stihl dealer and pick up a wrist bearing. Wonder what they cost own from the dealer?


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Aw it happens dont be sorry. I am starting to think its May be a clutch bearing. I am going to pull my 041 stihl and see if it will fit. It needs a new one anyway. Then today I will stop by the local stihl dealer and pick up a wrist bearing. Wonder what they cost own from the dealer?


Less than 17$

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

Bedford T said:


> Less than 17$
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Do you guys not buy oem from your local dealer? I find that they are usually cheaper than eBay. Even on nos items they charge close to what the dealer charges. Then the cost of shipping fits in there. I get it faster locally. I do find deals on eBay from time to time and it's perfect for used. 

What are the reasons you don't

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## golddredgergold

Seller got back to me right away. Says sorry for the mistake correct bearing is now on the way. Says the one I got may be for a 460. So no worries couple of days I should have it!


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> Do you guys not buy oem from your local dealer? I find that they are usually cheaper than eBay. Even on nos items they charge close to what the dealer charges. Then the cost of shipping fits in there. I get it faster locally. I do find deals on eBay from time to time and it's perfect for used.
> 
> What are the reasons you don't
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Nope Bedford, I avoid them like the plague! They never have anything in stock. Always have to order it. Then they hit you with shipping and California tax. If that bearing is $17.00 I would get out the door close to $30.00. If you have to order it and wait I might as well do it myself and no tax. Most of the time free shipping. So I order everything myself.


----------



## golddredgergold

Oh and also....
Sales guy at Stihl dealer... " I don't have that bearing in stock...I can order it will take about a week. But I do have a nice new 2018 stihl saw right over here on sale today......" Because somehow I want to drop $1200 on a new saw not $17.00 for the part I wanted.... See my point.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Nope Bedford, I avoid them like the plague! They never have anything in stock. Always have to order it. Then they hit you with shipping and California tax. If that bearing is $17.00 I would get out the door close to $30.00. If you have to order it and wait I might as well do it myself and no tax. Most of the time free shipping. So I order everything myself.


It's nice to know how stuff works different places. I have about 5 places to choose from. One is like yours and the others have faults like being lazy. One loves to talk politics and I hate that, I do not go there. The one most like yours stocks nothing and charges 3.75$ to order even a screw. I don't buy from them either. I talked to Stihl and they don't care a little bit. Not even a little...lol

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Oh and also....
> Sales guy at Stihl dealer... " I don't have that bearing in stock...I can order it will take about a week. But I do have a nice new 2018 stihl saw right over here on sale today......" Because somehow I want to drop $1200 on a new saw not $17.00 for the part I wanted.... See my point.


That's when I say I am here today to buy a part and you don't have it and your policies make it hard to get so why would I drop another dime with you on new equipment? Just does not make sense to me.

And watch their face. Even if they have a low iq they get what just happened. You just luck up if you find a good dealer, pure luck.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> It's nice to know how stuff works different places. I have about 5 places to choose from. One is like yours and the others have faults like being lazy. One loves to talk politics and I hate that, I do not go there. The one most like yours stocks nothing and charges 3.75$ to order even a screw. I don't buy from them either. I talked to Stihl and they don't care a little bit. Not even a little...lol
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Yep. We only have one place to choose from. It's minimum $12.50 shipping and handling for a "specialty" order. No matter what it is.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Yep. We only have one place to choose from. It's minimum $12.50 shipping and handling for a "specialty" order. No matter what it is.


Dang, that is robbery. Thank goodness for eBay

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Imprzed205

Here's what my bearing looks like. I pulled my jug yesterday to put a BB on it. Mine is copper colour


----------



## Bedford T

I went through our family photos and found we have had similar problems in the past.


----------



## golddredgergold

Yes wrong bearing for sure. He says he is sending the correct one. So I should get it fast. Its deffinately the thicker or larger outside diameter and a bit narrower than other rod bearing stihl uses. I got my cylinder test fit and placed my degree wheel. I will check my squish here in a bit. I need to pick up a nice t handle Torx as the fancy screwdriver style bit holding one I have wont fit down the cylinder holes. Uuuhhhggg! Always something. But so far so good. Cranks in cases sealed. Run the numbers through my tuned pipe software. I am building a "milling" pipe with a nice silencer. Designed to bring the torque peak at a slightly lower rpm and a good silencer that all is directed away from the user. So should be a great setup.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Yes wrong bearing for sure. He says he is sending the correct one. So I should get it fast. Its deffinately the thicker or larger outside diameter and a bit narrower than other rod bearing stihl uses. I got my cylinder test fit and placed my degree wheel. I will check my squish here in a bit. I need to pick up a nice t handle Torx as the fancy screwdriver style bit holding one I have wont fit down the cylinder holes. Uuuhhhggg! Always something. But so far so good. Cranks in cases sealed. Run the numbers through my tuned pipe software. I am building a "milling" pipe with a nice silencer. Designed to bring the torque peak at a slightly lower rpm and a good silencer that all is directed away from the user. So should be a great setup.


. You can use a 1/4 socket on it when you need more grip

https://www.eio.com/wiha-74590-t27-...z_qQhiT9WaGnZMgl0K9NvY-Dgo2N6_uxoCnt0QAvD_BwE

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> . You can use a 1/4 socket on it when you need more grip
> 
> https://www.eio.com/wiha-74590-t27-...z_qQhiT9WaGnZMgl0K9NvY-Dgo2N6_uxoCnt0QAvD_BwE
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Hopefully they have something like that at the local tool supply store.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Hopefully they have something like that at the local tool supply store.


My stores carried the ones with a square shank. Bet you have better luck

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

if you were grading sprockets for replacements and you had to communicate the wear level on the sprocket to your customer or your brother or whomever what would you grade this sprocket as far as the wear level. Its not a trick question. Just the wheel. the wall thickness is another matter.




10 brand new
9
8
7
6
5 is replacement required to operate saw safely

thanks


----------



## golddredgergold

What NGK spark plug number should I get for the ms660 kit? Opinions? This is what I am thinking right now. 

NGK BPMR7A


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> if you were grading sprockets for replacements and you had to communicate the wear level on the sprocket to your customer or your brother or whomever what would you grade this sprocket as far as the wear level. Its not a trick question. Just the wheel. the wall thickness is another matter.
> View attachment 637726
> View attachment 637727
> View attachment 637728
> 
> 10 brand new
> 9
> 8
> 7
> 6
> 5 is replacement required to operate saw safely
> 
> thanks


Never did like that stile of sprocket they whare to fast.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> What NGK spark plug number should I get for the ms660 kit? Opinions? This is what I am thinking right now.
> 
> NGK BPMR7A


That's the one I run and that's what they recommend


----------



## MG porting

Well got bored today and something was in my mind on my back up saw that I'm slowly getting together even though I know that the farmertec ms660 has a pretty big squish but never really cared to meshur the squish so I decided to on this one because I'll be changing the piston and cylinder in a couple of weeks and yep I got . 033" end to end so I'm hoping with the highway cylinder with the meteor piston it has less like the sweat spot . 022" or . 020" with base gasket of some kind I do have some made out of printers paper that are thinner than the metal base gasket so I do have some options.


----------



## cedar rat

I found the Huztl ms660 so interesting, that I ordered one today. I am not sure what to expect from a cloned 066; the only big saws I've owned were 2100 Husky's, I've had five of them. I really loved the manual oiler when I was in big wood!

Anyway the MS660 kit looks like a lot of fun, and it's less than half the price of most the used 66's in my area, and no stripped screws!!

Thanks for the threads on these cloned saws and the great videos.


----------



## MG porting

cedar rat said:


> I found the Huztl ms660 so interesting, that I ordered one today. I am not sure what to expect from a cloned 066; the only big saws I've owned were 2100 Husky's, I've had five of them. I really loved the manual oiler when I was in big wood!
> 
> Anyway the MS660 kit looks like a lot of fun, and it's less than half the price of most the used 66's in my area, and no stripped screws!!
> 
> Thanks for the threads on these cloned saws and the great videos.


You will get hooked on building it to where you will find yourself buying another one. Lol.


----------



## morbius18

660 #2, has the same issue in the same place. This I've looked closer. I used the metal gasket in the correct direction and used sealant. Had a vacuum leak along the cylinder bottom, where it hits the crankcase.



Tearing it back down...


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> 660 #2, has the same issue in the same place. This I've looked closer. I used the metal gasket in the correct direction and used sealant. Had a vacuum leak along the cylinder bottom, where it hits the crankcase.
> View attachment 637988
> 
> 
> Tearing it back down...


The outer part of the transfer is hitting the case take a good look at that.


----------



## morbius18

MG porting said:


> The outer part of the transfer is hitting the case take a good look at that.



I know, that's what happened with the last one.


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> I know, that's what happened with the last one.


Yea it's more common for the big bores to have this problem but it's a hit and miss with the standard bores but that's OK just takes a little more time to get it running is all. Lol


----------



## morbius18

Took the dremel to the jug. Now it has good clearance. Going to let the sealant dry overnight and test again in the morning.




As she sits now:


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> Took the dremel to the jug. Now it has good clearance. Going to let the sealant dry overnight and test again in the morning.
> View attachment 638024
> View attachment 638025
> 
> 
> As she sits now:
> View attachment 638026
> 
> View attachment 638027


That will get the job done.


----------



## David.M

I'd also like to chime in and say thank you for all the threads and videos on these kit saws. 

My first......and second....kit arrived yesterday. MS440 and MS660. Going to build the 440 first and then the 660. Last night I got the crank installed in the crank case halves. Had a little trouble with them not dropping in as easy as I expected after baking for 15 minutes at 240 degrees in the oven, but I got it together with a little extra manipulation. 

So far I'm very happy with the kits and am looking forward to getting them running!

FYI on shipping, ordered on Huztl site and used paypal. Shipped to WA. Ordered the ms440 on 2/25 and the ms660 on 2/27. Both arrived on 3/7. So 10 and 8 days transit time.

Again, thanks to everyone who has shared helpful information about building these kits.

David


----------



## MG porting

David.M said:


> I'd also like to chime in and say thank you for all the threads and videos on these kit saws.
> 
> My first......and second....kit arrived yesterday. MS440 and MS660. Going to build the 440 first and then the 660. Last night I got the crank installed in the crank case halves. Had a little trouble with them not dropping in as easy as I expected after baking for 15 minutes at 240 degrees in the oven, but I got it together with a little extra manipulation.
> 
> So far I'm very happy with the kits and am looking forward to getting them running!
> 
> FYI on shipping, ordered on Huztl site and used paypal. Shipped to WA. Ordered the ms440 on 2/25 and the ms660 on 2/27. Both arrived on 3/7. So 10 and 8 days transit time.
> 
> Again, thanks to everyone who has shared helpful information about building these kits.
> 
> David


Good to here that someone in my neck of the woods is building these things. Lol


----------



## morbius18

I usually use a heat gun and the case screws to pull them together. I also pull out the crank seals. There seems to be slivers of magnesium between them and the bearings from machining. Found it on both 660s and 440.


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> Took the dremel to the jug. Now it has good clearance. Going to let the sealant dry overnight and test again in the morning.
> View attachment 638024
> View attachment 638025
> 
> 
> As she sits now:
> View attachment 638026
> 
> View attachment 638027




good job. i notice you have the old style bar studs. next time you order you might want to get the studs with the shoulders. i think it holds the bar better. The clutch cover may or may not be beveled as they seem to swing back and forth, but a twirl with the dremel will correct it if need be. just an observation. it looks like you got the flange for the pressure test also so you are getting good solid reads.


----------



## David.M

I thought about using a heat gun, but went with the oven because I wanted to save and use the pre-installed case seals and I don't have a laser thermometer to measure bearing temperature. I was concerned about over heating and blistering paint on the case, or melting a seal. 

My goal is to build these using pretty much just the parts that come in the kit. If certain parts break or wear out I can buy replacements and swap them out later. I'm optimistic right now. It is possible I will have a different attitude on future builds.


----------



## Bedford T

David.M said:


> I'd also like to chime in and say thank you for all the threads and videos on these kit saws.
> 
> My first......and second....kit arrived yesterday. MS440 and MS660. Going to build the 440 first and then the 660. Last night I got the crank installed in the crank case halves. Had a little trouble with them not dropping in as easy as I expected after baking for 15 minutes at 240 degrees in the oven, but I got it together with a little extra manipulation.
> 
> So far I'm very happy with the kits and am looking forward to getting them running!
> 
> FYI on shipping, ordered on Huztl site and used paypal. Shipped to WA. Ordered the ms440 on 2/25 and the ms660 on 2/27. Both arrived on 3/7. So 10 and 8 days transit time.
> 
> Again, thanks to everyone who has shared helpful information about building these kits.
> 
> David




welcome to both of you new guys. its kinda funny you got both kits because you might have a 660 brake spring in the 440 and a 440 spring in the 660, so you might be ok. on the heat and the cases its always a nudge unless you maintain that heat for some time. the nudge can be a rubber mallet or the case screws. that is the part that gets my heart pumping putting those cases together. 

there is a good story on that. there is a guy in germany that works on chainsaws and i saw him do the heat thing. now i don't speak german, but watching him i about came out of my seat. you can tell he was doubtful or at least a first timer using that method. lots of folks get hung up on using a press. anyway he took a really nice heat gun and got that case hot as fire and he was working on installing a bearing and it took it like a, well, it swallowed it, and it stunned him, speechless and then excitement, it was so easy. but when we are working with the crank the short side 100% of the time for me slides right in and the other side about 70% of the time until i get the persuader. i think its the hump on the crank. twice for me it was the guide pin out of whack a hair. anyway it works and getting there is the best part for me. seeing that beautiful case come together.

if you happen to run in on anything on the 440 that is improved or worse or worth noting please also post it in the 440 build thread so when guys are making a choice they have the latest info. we have not had any new photo posted there in a good while. all info welcome so pay it forward best you can. this thread is killing it and the 440 is a really great saw and kit.


----------



## Bedford T

David.M said:


> I thought about using a heat gun, but went with the oven because I wanted to save and use the pre-installed case seals and I don't have a laser thermometer to measure bearing temperature. I was concerned about over heating and blistering paint on the case, or melting a seal.
> 
> My goal is to build these using pretty much just the parts that come in the kit. If certain parts break or wear out I can buy replacements and swap them out later. I'm optimistic right now. It is possible I will have a different attitude on future builds.


that was a good call letting the oven guide you. if you can afford it buy the piston bearing. you can't go back in there, or you sure don't want to. your right build it and if needed replace it later.


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> I usually use a heat gun and the case screws to pull them together. I also pull out the crank seals. There seems to be slivers of magnesium between them and the bearings from machining. Found it on both 660s and 440.


fuel and air should clean up the cases well enough. we always thought the seals should be removed. time has proven that not as important as common sense might have made it seem. there was no case corrosion in your photos


----------



## morbius18

These were like 1/8-1/2 inch shards/slivers where the bearing bosses had been machined. They were between the seal and bearing. They would have eventually ended up in the cylinder.


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> These were like 1/8-1/2 inch shards/slivers where the bearing bosses had been machined. They were between the seal and bearing. They would have eventually ended up in the cylinder.


thats bad


----------



## Bedford T

Bedford T said:


> welcome to both of you new guys. its kinda funny you got both kits because you might have a 660 brake spring in the 440 and a 440 spring in the 660, so you might be ok. on the heat and the cases its always a nudge unless you maintain that heat for some time. the nudge can be a rubber mallet or the case screws. that is the part that gets my heart pumping putting those cases together.
> 
> there is a good story on that. there is a guy in germany that works on chainsaws and i saw him do the heat thing. now i don't speak german, but watching him i about came out of my seat. you can tell he was doubtful or at least a first timer using that method. lots of folks get hung up on using a press. anyway he took a really nice heat gun and got that case hot as fire and he was working on installing a bearing and it took it like a, well, it swallowed it, and it stunned him, speechless and then excitement, it was so easy. but when we are working with the crank the short side 100% of the time for me slides right in and the other side about 70% of the time until i get the persuader. i think its the hump on the crank. twice for me it was the guide pin out of whack a hair. anyway it works and getting there is the best part for me. seeing that beautiful case come together.
> 
> if you happen to run in on anything on the 440 that is improved or worse or worth noting please also post it in the 440 build thread so when guys are making a choice they have the latest info. we have not had any new photo posted there in a good while. all info welcome so pay it forward best you can. this thread is killing it and the 440 is a really great saw and kit.


When it ships to WA does it come by way of Japan in it's tracking history? Most of what I recall comes to NY first and travels.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## hacksaw11111

Well got my new ignition, and got it started! Very relieved! Sounds nasty compared to my 231, haha.
Good video if you get it flooded...


----------



## Bedford T

hacksaw11111 said:


> Well got my new ignition, and got it started! Very relieved! Sounds nasty compared to my 231, haha.
> Good video if you get it flooded...


Glad it's running. It's always a good feeling

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## morbius18

David.M said:


> I'd also like to chime in and say thank you for all the threads and videos on these kit saws.
> 
> My first......and second....kit arrived yesterday. MS440 and MS660. Going to build the 440 first and then the 660. Last night I got the crank installed in the crank case halves. Had a little trouble with them not dropping in as easy as I expected after baking for 15 minutes at 240 degrees in the oven, but I got it together with a little extra manipulation.
> 
> So far I'm very happy with the kits and am looking forward to getting them running!
> 
> FYI on shipping, ordered on Huztl site and used paypal. Shipped to WA. Ordered the ms440 on 2/25 and the ms660 on 2/27. Both arrived on 3/7. So 10 and 8 days transit time.
> 
> Again, thanks to everyone who has shared helpful information about building these kits.
> 
> David



I think you'll like the 440 kit. Mine came with the big bore (52mm). I ended up removing the base gasket, ported/matched, and removed the muffler baffles. Lots of power! I like it better than the 660. I'd say they are within 1/2hp from each other, but the 440 is 2.5 lbs lighter.


----------



## Bedford T

Thinner too

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## David.M

Thanks. Mine came with standard (50mm bore). I am expecting I will use the 440 quite a bit more than the 660. Will start with standard bore....may upgrade later. Will see.


----------



## morbius18

David.M said:


> Thanks. Mine came with standard (50mm bore). I am expecting I will use the 440 quite a bit more than the 660. Will start with standard bore....may upgrade later. Will see.



It ended up with good compression after break in.


----------



## Bedford T

@golddredgergold anything to report on the bearing yet?

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## gchamber

Well I'm back from the dead. Finally got my mityvac and was able to pressure test the cylinder that got fried. Didn't take long to find an air leak. 

Turns out the intake elbow cracked where it connects to the cylinder. Which is rather upsetting bc I spent $45 on an OEM one specifically for the durability of OEM lol since this was a major leak, I am unable to confirm at this time if I had any base gasket leaks but I'm leaning towards no. 

Thoughts on this issue and how to avoid in the future?


----------



## gchamber

Alright. Correction. I was able to vac test the cylinder and it held 10 in mercury for over 2 minutes. So seems like the issue was a poorly tuned carb and the cracked intake elbow yes?


----------



## Bedford T

gchamber said:


> Well I'm back from the dead. Finally got my mityvac and was able to pressure test the cylinder that got fried. Didn't take long to find an air leak.
> 
> Turns out the intake elbow cracked where it connects to the cylinder. Which is rather upsetting bc I spent $45 on an OEM one specifically for the durability of OEM lol since this was a major leak, I am unable to confirm at this time if I had any base gasket leaks but I'm leaning towards no.
> 
> Thoughts on this issue and how to avoid in the future?


Wow. You know, you did all you could do there. I would think the clamp was in some way responsible. They are not as finished as a oem clamp. I am sure you had the manifold seated properly so the clamp had to have cut it. Those manifolds last decades. Dang that is surprising

The manifold was the failure, that's all it took

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## gchamber

Bedford T said:


> Wow. You know, you did all you could do there. I would think the clamp was in some way responsible. They are not as finished as a oem clamp. I am sure you had the manifold seated properly so the clamp had to have cut it. Those manifolds last decades. Dang that is surprising
> 
> The manifold was the failure, that's all it took
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info



It is both satisfying and infuriating knowing that the cylinder didn't leak a peep. Satisfying because it justifies my assembly. Infuriating because even though I did everything correctly, a broken hose ended my saw. Well now I can get started breaking it down and seeing if the crank is salvageable.


----------



## Bedford T

gchamber said:


> It is both satisfying and infuriating knowing that the cylinder didn't leak a peep. Satisfying because it justifies my assembly. Infuriating because even though I did everything correctly, a broken hose ended my saw. Well now I can get started breaking it down and seeing if the crank is salvageable.


Building gives us great insight. Troubleshooting is a little different because we have different variables. It was my belief that we will catch up with the guys that have been saw mechanics much longer, faster. If we pay attention and work hard. That is a valuable lesson, yet painful, very painful. If you step back and think about this journey and your steps before and after, you would be hard pressed to convince me you do not feel empowered. If you took your trimmer in for service and the guy did not shot straight with you, you would know it. Lol

You trouble shoot your own problem! I love this

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## gchamber

Bedford T said:


> Building gives us great insight. Troubleshooting is a little different because we have different variables. It was my belief that we will catch up with the guys that have been saw mechanics much longer, faster. If we pay attention and work hard. That is a valuable lesson, yet painful, very painful. If you step back and think about this journey and your steps before and after, you would be hard pressed to convince me you do not feel empowered. If you took your trimmer in for service and the guy did not shot straight with you, you would know it. Lol
> 
> You trouble shoot your own problem! I love this
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Yep. All in all I'm pleased with the saw, even if I need a rebuild already lol guess it's back to the stihl dealer to order up a new manifold and maybe this time I'll grab the OEM clamp too


----------



## morbius18

MG porting said:


> That will get the job done.



Tested it this morning and still had a vacuum leak along the flywheel side of the cylinder. Slower, but a leak nonetheless.

I think it is gasket related.

I've rebuilt over 50 saws, removing base gaskets when able. The only 2 that I've had issues with are both huztl 660s.


----------



## Bedford T

gchamber said:


> Yep. All in all I'm pleased with the saw, even if I need a rebuild already lol guess it's back to the stihl dealer to order up a new manifold and maybe this time I'll grab the OEM clamp too


Do you recall the clamp should have 5mm of space between the closures. More and you damage the boot. I will put up a example in a minute. Also the head of the screw is best on the clutch side i think. the side that you can get to in any case.




http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> Tested it this morning and still had a vacuum leak along the flywheel side of the cylinder. Slower, but a leak nonetheless.
> 
> I think it is gasket related.
> 
> I've rebuilt over 50 saws, removing base gaskets when able. The only 2 that I've had issues with are both huztl 660s.


Remove it

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## morbius18

Bedford T said:


> Remove it
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info



Without a gasket, piston hits. I cut a paper gasket from .015 paper. I'm still getting a slow leak at the same edge. 

I bought a new tube of dirko and, still leaking there. Drops pressure over 5 minutes and a bubble occasionally with soap water over the spot.

I guess I'm going to pull the jug off and sand some on the base to square it up and remove some from the bottom edges to see if it's hitting where I cannot see.

Super frustrating. ..


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> Without a gasket, piston hits. I cut a paper gasket from .015 paper. I'm still getting a slow leak at the same edge.
> 
> I bought a new tube of dirko and, still leaking there. Drops pressure over 5 minutes and a bubble occasionally with soap water over the spot.
> 
> I guess I'm going to pull the jug off and sand some on the base to square it up and remove some from the bottom edges to see if it's hitting where I cannot see.
> 
> Super frustrating. ..


Pressure dropping after 5 minutes is fine. They just want 20 seconds of no movement.






http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## morbius18

Bedford T said:


> Pressure dropping after 5 minutes is fine. They just want 20 seconds of no movement.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info



Are the occasional bubbles (from dish doap water) from the edge of the cylinder ok?


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> Are the occasional bubbles (from dish doap water) from the edge of the cylinder ok?


nah that part would eat at me. i am reading trying to follow along


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> Are the occasional bubbles (from dish doap water) from the edge of the cylinder ok?


so aside from the 5 minutes. it holds for 20 firm and for those 20 does it bubble? vacuum behavior?


----------



## gchamber

Bedford T said:


> Do you recall the clamp should have 5mm of space between the closures. More and you damage the boot. I will put up a example in a minute. Also the head of the screw is best on the clutch side i think. the side that you can get to in any case.
> View attachment 638230
> 
> 
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


I don't recall and I didn't measure when I installed. I'm sure I probably did overtighten it because I wanted to make sure I didn't have any air leaks. Ironic isn't it?


----------



## morbius18

It's bubbling when I pressure test. I'll reassemble and check again in a bit. 

I flattened the base, hit the base sides and sanded the transfer buldge again.

The base of the cylinder wasn't exactly flat. It was unfinished looking, like it wasn't machined after casting. Kinda rough like the sides of the cylinder.


----------



## gchamber

morbius18 said:


> Without a gasket, piston hits. I cut a paper gasket from .015 paper. I'm still getting a slow leak at the same edge.
> 
> I bought a new tube of dirko and, still leaking there. Drops pressure over 5 minutes and a bubble occasionally with soap water over the spot.
> 
> I guess I'm going to pull the jug off and sand some on the base to square it up and remove some from the bottom edges to see if it's hitting where I cannot see.
> 
> Super frustrating. ..


I had an issue with the big bore jug hitting the case on the flywheel side. Might want to check it out. Had to clearance the case to get it to fit


----------



## hacksaw11111

20% off on ebay today (enter at checkout : PSPRING20)...get a 660 kit for $204.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-P...084054?hash=item4b382df896:g:3DgAAOSwtn9ZzgkB


----------



## Bedford T

Would you guys keep the 440 stuff in the 440 thread. It's all revelant and harder to find when you mix it up.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

hacksaw11111 said:


> 20% off on ebay today (enter at checkout : PSPRING20)...get a 660 kit for $204.
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-P...084054?hash=item4b382df896:g:3DgAAOSwtn9ZzgkB


And free shipping dang

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

Bedford T said:


> And free shipping dang
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Out of stock that was fast

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## hacksaw11111

Bedford T said:


> Out of stock that was fast
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


How many did you buy? Lol!


----------



## Bedford T

None. I think it was gone in 5 minutes. They read this thread and they likely went yikes I did not mean for this so it suddenly went out. What a buy huh?

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## morbius18

It appeared the transfer bulge was hitting lower on the case where you couldn't see it. I had to hold a flash light from the front and peer with one eye from the back to see it. 

A little more dremel work. I also sanded the bottom sides also.




Seemed to look good by eye. Put the 4 screws into it to square it up and pull it into place. Got light all the way through. I reinstalled the original metal gasket and dirkoed it up. Going to let it dry overnight and retest.


----------



## morbius18

morbius18 said:


> It appeared the transfer bulge was hitting lower on the case where you couldn't see it. I had to hold a flash light from the front and peer with one eye from the back to see it.
> 
> A little more dremel work. I also sanded the bottom sides also.
> 
> View attachment 638269
> 
> 
> Seemed to look good by eye. Put the 4 screws into it to square it up and pull it into place. Got light all the way through. I reinstalled the original metal gasket and dirkoed it up. Going to let it dry overnight and retest.



I couldn't wait until tomorrow. Roughly 4 hours cure time. 

That seemed to fix it. Aggressive dremeling the transfer bulge below where it's visable and dirko ht with the original gasket.

Held .5 bar/7 psi for 5 minutes with no leakdown at all.


----------



## morbius18

Bedford T said:


> And free shipping dang
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info



This deal is back up. I just added one to my cart and verified it.


----------



## dswensen

morbius18 said:


> This deal is back up. I just added one to my cart and verified it.



Never have seen it today for $204. $255? Yes, can see that - no $204.


----------



## morbius18

dswensen said:


> Never have seen it today for $204. $255? Yes, can see that - no $204.



Add it to your cart. Checkout, before confirming there is a link to enter ebay gift cards, coupons, ebay bucks. Enter pspring20. It will take the 20% off. You can only use the code on one purchase.

Me like an idiot bought a jacket instead.


----------



## morbius18

gchamber said:


> I don't recall and I didn't measure when I installed. I'm sure I probably did overtighten it because I wanted to make sure I didn't have any air leaks. Ironic isn't it?



I will actually take a small file or dremel and remove the sharp edge on the cylinder where the bellows goes. It's quite sharp (on aftermarket cylinders) if you run your finger over it.

This edge:


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> Tested it this morning and still had a vacuum leak along the flywheel side of the cylinder. Slower, but a leak nonetheless.
> 
> I think it is gasket related.
> 
> I've rebuilt over 50 saws, removing base gaskets when able. The only 2 that I've had issues with are both huztl 660s.


Yea that's weird did you check to see if the base of the cylinder is flat it don't take much there if it's not flat.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Yea that's weird did you check to see if the base of the cylinder is flat it don't take much there if it's not flat.


Are you buying you a third saw today with the discount?

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> Add it to your cart. Checkout, before confirming there is a link to enter ebay gift cards, coupons, ebay bucks. Enter pspring20. It will take the 20% off. You can only use the code on one purchase.
> 
> Me like an idiot bought a jacket instead.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Are you buying you a third saw today with the discount?
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


No I have to budget my money I'm just going to get the new cylinder and piston kit for my second saw other wise I'll be in the dog house. Lol.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> No I have to budget my money I'm just going to get the new cylinder and piston kit for my second saw other wise I'll be in the dog house. Lol.


I got no wife but since I can add and subtract I too did not buy. Lol

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## dswensen

morbius18 said:


> Add it to your cart. Checkout, before confirming there is a link to enter ebay gift cards, coupons, ebay bucks. Enter pspring20. It will take the 20% off. You can only use the code on one purchase.
> 
> Me like an idiot bought a jacket instead.



Thank you - apparently I'M the idiot who can't read. I appreciate you reading for me!!


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I got no wife but since I can add and subtract I too did not buy. Lol
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


There still a big block Chevy that I'm building for her car so that makes things a little more tight for buying ms660 part's but I still manage to get something .Lol


----------



## moresnow

Any ideas why a freshly assembled kit pulls over very hard. Supposedly feels like it has crazy high compression. Will pop but not run. Buddy of mine called after he got it together. I am going to have a look today. Thought I'd run it past you guys early this AM before I head over. Seems odd. The guy who assembled it is typically top notch.


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> @golddredgergold anything to report on the bearing yet?
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info




Not yet. Should have arrived Friday. Its Saturday now and it did not show again. Seller says he is surprised it was not. So hopefully Monday. Got everything I can do done. Just waiting for the bearing so I can do the leak down test.


----------



## hacksaw11111

moresnow said:


> Any ideas why a freshly assembled kit pulls over very hard. Supposedly feels like it has crazy high compression. Will pop but not run. Buddy of mine called after he got it together. I am going to have a look today. Thought I'd run it past you guys early this AM before I head over. Seems odd. The guy who assembled it is typically top notch.


I broke the aftermarket elastostart cord first pull. They're junk btw.
Also, watch you don't flood it. Had to start mine like the video I posted a couple pages back


----------



## morbius18

Mine took 5 pulls choked and it kicked, then 2 on 1/2 to start.

I turn both h&l all the way in and then open 1 1/2. The idle I'll turn it to close the choke plate then turn it in until it cracks open. I leave off the filter base so I can see it on the initial startup and first few heat cycles.


----------



## hacksaw11111

morbius18 said:


> Mine took 5 pulls choked and it kicked, then 2 on 1/2 to start.
> 
> I turn both h&l all the way in and then open 1 1/2. The idle I'll turn it to close the choke plate then turn it in until it cracks open. I leave off the filter base so I can see it on the initial startup and first few heat cycles.
> View attachment 638781


Thanks I'll try that on the walbro carb, it seemed to be dumping way too much gas in, switched it back to the ft to get it started. 
Have a tach otw. What rpm's would you guys suggest for milling? Does 11k sound good? I remember reading it should be set slower for milling, but don't recall the rpm's recommend


----------



## morbius18

hacksaw11111 said:


> Thanks I'll try that on the walbro carb, it seemed to be dumping way too much gas in, switched it back to the ft to get it started.
> Have a tach otw. What rpm's would you guys suggest for milling? Does 11k sound good? I remember reading it should be set slower for milling, but don't recall the rpm's recommend



I used a walbro on the last one I did. I did the same turns to it. This one was all china, it responded the same though.


----------



## MG porting

moresnow said:


> Any ideas why a freshly assembled kit pulls over very hard. Supposedly feels like it has crazy high compression. Will pop but not run. Buddy of mine called after he got it together. I am going to have a look today. Thought I'd run it past you guys early this AM before I head over. Seems odd. The guy who assembled it is typically top notch.


Bad plug or just flooded or bad coil or meager air leak.


----------



## MG porting

For milling I would set it at 11,300 or 11,500 any lower it's just going to be a dog and most likely flood.


----------



## Bedford T

moresnow said:


> Any ideas why a freshly assembled kit pulls over very hard. Supposedly feels like it has crazy high compression. Will pop but not run. Buddy of mine called after he got it together. I am going to have a look today. Thought I'd run it past you guys early this AM before I head over. Seems odd. The guy who assembled it is typically top notch.


Sorry you did not get this sooner.

Is he using the farmertec cylinder kit?

My last kit did the same thing and nobody knew nothing. Turns out I had gotten fancy pants and put a cross cylinder on it. The geometry was off and you just could not pull it.

I took the sides off, bar off and set it on a table in front of me and listened closely. I could hear a ping as the piston entered the cylinder instead of a shoosh. So it was off center or something, it was put on a lathe and was given a tiny bit of info and never heard another word.

My advice is do not run that saw. I later found a lot of other people that got about 3 tanks and then total faliure. Proceed with caution.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## morbius18

I got the saw together, did 3 heat cycles and adjusted it. Took it by the local saw shop and a friend double checked it. The friend who I assembled it for came to get it and it wouldn't start.

I took a look at it and was getting a good spark. Changed the plug, still no dice. I removed the filter base and just had the carb bolted on with nothing else. I couldn't get it to start, but didn't see much gas.

I pulled the carb off and apart, screen was clean. When I blew out the main jet, lots of tiny glitter came out. I guess some residual aluminum from the manufacturing of the carb.

I put on an extra carb and it started right up.

I guess it's my fault for not double checking the carb, like I do all the internal stuff for left over manufacturing metal bits.


----------



## golddredgergold

Hey guys. Got my wrist pin bearing. So finishing up my build. Have 2 rubber parts I am trying to sort out. I read in this thread the o-ring goes under the oil pump but I used the little flat sided o-ring the manual call for in that seal. Same Bedford used in his video to. So not sure if it goes somewhere else. Also can't find where the grommet in the right of the pic goes? They double up bunch of the rubber parts in my kit as the handle assembly was already built so that's where I had doubles of everything. Any ideas where it goes also?


----------



## morbius18

golddredgergold said:


> Hey guys. Got my wrist pin bearing. So finishing up my build. Have 2 rubber parts I am trying to sort out. I read in this thread the o-ring goes under the oil pump but I used the little flat sided o-ring the manual call for in that seal. Same Bedford used in his video to. So not sure if it goes somewhere else. Also can't find where the grommet in the right of the pic goes? They double up bunch of the rubber parts in my kit as the handle assembly was already built so that's where I had doubles of everything. Any ideas where it goes also?
> View attachment 639091



I had the O ring left over also. The other part looks like a grommet where the wires go through the frame somewhere. I had other extras too. The first one that I did had the crankcase and cylinder assembled, with all the av stuff installed. And an extra set in the rubber bag.


----------



## morbius18

Final assembly:


----------



## dswensen

I see pictures of recently built saws with "Stihl MS660" and "Magnum" decals on them. Are the more recent kits coming with those decals? Mine (a year ago) did not.


----------



## morbius18

dswensen said:


> I see pictures of recently built saws with "Stihl MS660" and "Magnum" decals on them. Are the more recent kits coming with those decals? Mine (a year ago) did not.



No, I buy them off ebay. About $20 for the oem stickers


----------



## morbius18

I buy them from the same seller and combine shipping. 

Here's the items for anyone who wants them for their kits.


----------



## Marco

Maybe I got a good one, Oddjob is here to work. Needed something to replace a p51 that's made of unubtaniuom. And I put it together with Hylomar.


----------



## moresnow

Sad update. Screech. Locked up. Not my assembly. I hope to have a look soon. Guess it made it half hour.


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> I got the saw together, did 3 heat cycles and adjusted it. Took it by the local saw shop and a friend double checked it. The friend who I assembled it for came to get it and it wouldn't start.
> 
> I took a look at it and was getting a good spark. Changed the plug, still no dice. I removed the filter base and just had the carb bolted on with nothing else. I couldn't get it to start, but didn't see much gas.
> 
> I pulled the carb off and apart, screen was clean. When I blew out the main jet, lots of tiny glitter came out. I guess some residual aluminum from the manufacturing of the carb.
> 
> I put on an extra carb and it started right up.
> 
> I guess it's my fault for not double checking the carb, like I do all the internal stuff for left over manufacturing metal bits.





moresnow said:


> Sad update. Screech. Locked up. Not my assembly. I hope to have a look soon. Guess it made it half hour.


To lean or straight gassed or really bad are leek. Any case that sucks.


----------



## MG porting

moresnow said:


> Sad update. Screech. Locked up. Not my assembly. I hope to have a look soon. Guess it made it half hour.


Or you could got lucky and the clutch spun loos and locked up.


----------



## morbius18

MG porting said:


> To lean or straight gassed or really bad are leek. Any case that sucks.



It seems that in this latest batch, the quality seems to be off. I'm sure there are some that go without a hitch, my 440 kit was like that, but I'm probably not going to be buying another. 

At least for myself. If someone I know wants to pay me to assemble and troubleshoot, then I'll consider that. The same way I don't want to do another 009l crank bearings replacement.


----------



## moresnow

Whew. My buddy was pulling my leg on the failure. He actually is very pleased with the saw. I told him he had a poor choice of humor.


----------



## MG porting

moresnow said:


> Whew. My buddy was pulling my leg on the failure. He actually is very pleased with the saw. I told him he had a poor choice of humor.


Yea hahaha last joke will be on him next time I bet. That's good to hear that there's nothing wrong with the saw.


----------



## Imprzed205

moresnow said:


> Sad update. Screech. Locked up. Not my assembly. I hope to have a look soon. Guess it made it half hour.



I wonder if yours hung a ring on the exhaust. 
Mine did this weekend and locked up tighter than Dicks Hatband. 
Hope to tear it down soon and get some pics.


----------



## golddredgergold

Imprzed205 said:


> I wonder if yours hung a ring on the exhaust.
> Mine did this weekend and locked up tighter than Dicks Hatband.
> Hope to tear it down soon and get some pics.


I worked my ports over good with a nice bevel. Takes some time and a steady hand. I bent a small file at an angle to get in there and smooth all the edges well.


----------



## Imprzed205

I think that's what happened. The one I ported is fine so far although I haven't used that one much. 
The stock huztl topend on the other saw had the problem.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Hey guys. Got my wrist pin bearing. So finishing up my build. Have 2 rubber parts I am trying to sort out. I read in this thread the o-ring goes under the oil pump but I used the little flat sided o-ring the manual call for in that seal. Same Bedford used in his video to. So not sure if it goes somewhere else. Also can't find where the grommet in the right of the pic goes? They double up bunch of the rubber parts in my kit as the handle assembly was already built so that's where I had doubles of everything. Any ideas where it goes also?
> View attachment 639091


One is the oil pump and the other, larger is for the handle wiring grommet


----------



## Bedford T

You guys ready to pay more for the kits. Any day now, most likely. Tariffs.


----------



## GroundmanGus

Got one the other day on ebay with that coupon. Last one actually. Exited for the build. Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this and the other threads!

Sent from my SM-S907VL using Tapatalk


----------



## Imprzed205

We pay 25% tariffs to china. They pay 2.5%. 
The people raking in the $ from favors or deals might come to a end. Guess we'll see


----------



## Bedford T

Imprzed205 said:


> We pay 25% tariffs to china. They pay 2.5%.
> The people raking in the $ from favors or deals might come to a end. Guess we'll see


No politics, I was talking about higher kit costs. No more on my part.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> You guys ready to pay more for the kits. Any day now, most likely. Tariffs.





Bedford T said:


> No politics, I was talking about higher kit costs. No more on my part.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kiinfo


Great that sucks but maybe if there going to be charing more maybe they will throw in some better parts. Wishful thinking anyway.


----------



## MG porting

MG porting said:


> Great that sucks but maybe if there going to be charing more maybe they will throw in some better parts. Wishful thinking anyway.


Charging. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Great that sucks but maybe if there going to be charing more maybe they will throw in some better parts. Wishful thinking anyway. [emoji38]


I bet the parts will be worse. In retaliation. A screw you. I dreaded this. I enjoyed building, learning. Thankfully I am past that but there are other people coming along. Sad if it all flows like it appears it will. You know tools are made of steel, clutches, bolts, chain, sprockets, that is a whole other price increase on top of that. It will be like in new Zealand and Australia where buying a 661 is like buying a used car. Sadder lol

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I bet the parts will be worse. In retaliation. A screw you. I dreaded this. I enjoyed building, learning. Thankfully I am past that but there are other people coming along. Sad if it all flows like it appears it will. You know tools are made of steel, clutches, bolts, chain, sprockets, that is a whole other price increase on top of that. It will be like in new Zealand and Australia where buying a 661 is like buying a used car. Sadder lol
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Yea I'm sure that they will be a little upset but the people who buy these kits are also going to be victims to so hopefully they will put that in consideration. Keep are fingers crossed anyways.


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> One is the oil pump and the other, larger is for the handle wiring grommet


You say the o ring is the oil pump? Where does it go? The one fitting drops into the pickup tube. The other hole gets the flat sided ring thats the pressure side. So where does this little o ring go?


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> You say the o ring is the oil pump? Where does it go? The one fitting drops into the pickup tube. The other hole gets the flat sided ring thats the pressure side. So where does this little o ring go?


I believe that the small O ring goes under the drive gear for the bar tensioner.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> I believe that the small O ring goes under the drive gear for the bar tensioner.


Your right. I just ordered the O-Ring that fits on the case that the oil pump slides on to for my 029 and I was thinking of it.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## golddredgergold

So 


MG porting said:


> I believe that the small O ring goes under the drive gear for the bar tensioner.


So I must have just gotten 2 of the little o rings then. I put one under the drive gear so I am set. looks like I am short 2 nuts that both the carb down and one locknut for the bucking teeth. The upper case side. So just a trip to the hardware store for those and I can wrap this project up. Looking forward to the test fire.


----------



## Imprzed205

Bedford T said:


> No politics, I was talking about higher kit costs. No more on my part.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info





Bedford T said:


> I bet the parts will be worse. In retaliation. A screw you. I dreaded this. I enjoyed building, learning. Thankfully I am past that but there are other people coming along. Sad if it all flows like it appears it will. You know tools are made of steel, clutches, bolts, chain, sprockets, that is a whole other price increase on top of that. It will be like in new Zealand and Australia where buying a 661 is like buying a used car. Sadder lol
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info



No politics just facts. 
I doubt they'll shot their self in the foot that way customers will only put up with so much before going else where. Like I said we'll see how they act. Saw parts are small potatoes compared to steel for transportation and building infrastructure. 
Huztl still giving people the wrong parts over and over is a slap in the face. Along with the new problems that has surfaced


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> So
> 
> So I must have just gotten 2 of the little o rings then. I put one under the drive gear so I am set. looks like I am short 2 nuts that both the carb down and one locknut for the bucking teeth. The upper case side. So just a trip to the hardware store for those and I can wrap this project up. Looking forward to the test fire.


Yep you got 2 that's what happened to me I kept scathing my head for a while until I decided I put the saw altogether with all the parts needed heck I even got extra av mounts can't complain about that.


----------



## golddredgergold

I ended up with just about on all the small rubber parts. But short a couple of screws and 3 nuts. Not to bad.


----------



## Bedford T

Imprzed205 said:


> No politics just facts.
> I doubt they'll shot their self in the foot that way customers will only put up with so much before going else where. Like I said we'll see how they act. Saw parts are small potatoes compared to steel for transportation and building infrastructure.
> Huztl still giving people the wrong parts over and over is a slap in the face. Along with the new problems that has surfaced[/
> 
> Interesting that you don't think they have already shot themselves in the foot. Are you hiding from them? There is no where to go. Imports are imports. And again if you want to talk about anything other parts there must be a thread for that. They will react the same way they always have. Send us photo, we so sorry it will still work. Except it will cost 30% or more to be treated like that. I would be willing to bet I have been dealing with them in a more direct way than you for a longer period of time. I know exactly what is going to happen.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Imprzed205

You we're speaking of tariffs and prices. There's very little steel in the kits. Mostly aluminum and plastic. Aluminum tariffs would be 10%. 
If your in talks with them then I would watch out.


----------



## gchamber

A little more autopsy from last night. Is the blueing on the wrist pin something to worry about? It's OEM pin, I was going to reuse it. The crank still seems fine so I'm hoping with a new manifold, I can just put the 54mm piston and cylinder on it and get back to work.


----------



## morbius18

gchamber said:


> View attachment 639433
> View attachment 639434
> View attachment 639435
> A little more autopsy from last night. Is the blueing on the wrist pin something to worry about? It's OEM pin, I was going to reuse it. The crank still seems fine so I'm hoping with a new manifold, I can just put the 54mm piston and cylinder on it and get back to work.



I've reused some that have blueing. Most of the ones that I've done will also have slight blueing of the piston end of the rod as well, even on good runners that I've just reringed.

Are your circlips intact? Something made its way into the combustion chamber and gouged the p&c.


----------



## gchamber

morbius18 said:


> I've reused some that have blueing. Most of the ones that I've done will also have slight blueing of the piston end of the rod as well, even on good runners that I've just reringed.
> 
> Are your circlips intact? Something made its way into the combustion chamber and gouged the p&c.



Circlips in tact. Used OEM clips. I'm not sure what could have gotten in there. Bc the piston and and cylinder look to be solid as well


----------



## Imprzed205

Moving forward. 
The piston looks as if it was rubbing in the cylinder. If you know the mix and tune was correct then there's mechanical problem. 

I found why mine **** the bed. My ring end gap was virtually zero. So when it got hot the ring had no where to expand. 
Also the piston to cylinder clearance needs to be checked. I haven't done that yet.


----------



## MG porting

gchamber said:


> View attachment 639433
> View attachment 639434
> View attachment 639435
> A little more autopsy from last night. Is the blueing on the wrist pin something to worry about? It's OEM pin, I was going to reuse it. The crank still seems fine so I'm hoping with a new manifold, I can just put the 54mm piston and cylinder on it and get back to work.


Yea that pin got hot I would replace it if it was me.


----------



## gchamber

Imprzed205 said:


> Moving forward.
> The piston looks as if it was rubbing in the cylinder. If you know the mix and tune was correct then there's a mechanical problem.
> 
> I found why mine **** the bed. My ring end gap was virtually zero. So when it got hot the ring had no where to expand.
> Also the piston to cylinder clearance needs to be checked. I haven't done that yet.



Mine had an air leak where I tightened the manifold band clamp too tight and split the rubber. So it was leaning out. I'm assuming that was enough to cause lack of lubrication and friction that led to the catastrophic failure. I haven't found any indication that something made its way into the combustion chamber but I will do some more inspecting this evening


----------



## Imprzed205

gchamber said:


> Mine had an air leak where I tightened the manifold band clamp too tight and split the rubber. So it was leaning out. I'm assuming that was enough to cause lack of lubrication and friction that led to the catastrophic failure. I haven't found any indication that something made its way into the combustion chamber but I will do some more inspecting this evening



Oh that's right. I've been pondering over my failure. If you don't find a foreign object in there It could have smeared a piece of the piston down the cylinder to cause that deep scratch.


----------



## MG porting

OK just for fun today I'm going to do some port work on the spare farmertec ms660 cylinder I will be posting the pics sometime this evening for you all it's more or less my version of a wood's port and it works well for a working saw.


----------



## golddredgergold

First time I have messed with a Decomp valve on the 660. So with the valve closed there is still a substantial amount of blow by? I thought maybe the oem replacement I got was bad. I put the hutzl valve included with the kit in and same exact amount of blow by. Push it in and of course I get lots of blow by like it should but when closed why do the leak so much? Put my thumb over the hole compression jumps huge and pops my thumb off. I don't have a regular plug for it. Trying to test compression but can't do it with these Decomp in place.


----------



## gchamber

golddredgergold said:


> First time I have messed with a Decomp valve on the 660. So with the valve closed there is still a substantial amount of blow by? I thought maybe the oem replacement I got was bad. I put the hutzl valve included with the kit in and same exact amount of blow by. Push it in and of course I get lots of blow by like it should but when closed why do the leak so much? Put my thumb over the hole compression jumps huge and pops my thumb off. I don't have a regular plug for it. Trying to test compression but can't do it with these Decomp in place.



decomp valves are an accident waiting to happen. just plug it and you'll be fine.


----------



## golddredgergold

gchamber said:


> decomp valves are an accident waiting to happen. just plug it and you'll be fine.



Got one ordered. But still would like to know how and why it works like it does? It bleeds a bunch even closed. Does this stop when it fires up? Or is it a compression loss all the time? Makes zero sense. I can put it in my mouth and blow through it with the valve closed?


----------



## gchamber

golddredgergold said:


> Got one ordered. But still would like to know how and why it works like it does? It bleeds a bunch even closed. Does this stop when it fires up? Or is it a compression loss all the time? Makes zero sense. I can put it in my mouth and blow through it with the valve closed?


There is no gasket. It is just metal on metal so you are not going to get perfect tolerances to ensure a leak proof seal.


----------



## MG porting

OK did my port work today although some people might think my work isn't pretty but not this pretty don't always make power or torke so here's some pictures for you all. The intake I widened 1mm both sides. The transfers I tapered the bottoms and the brig I did some work to help get a little more flow to the uppers. The exhaust I didn't widen or change top or bottom of the entry way at all just opened up the outside of the port and polished it. I made a gasket out of printers paper now squish is . 016 not to happy with that but I may run it just to see if it can handle it my 064 is right around that with 200 pounds of compression.


----------



## MG porting

Forgot a photo this shows that I reshaped the side's of the intake when I widen them.


----------



## MG porting

Well change my mind on the base gasket even though I the piston had room around the squish band I don't feel like running a saw that I can only run for five minutes at a time because it would run hotter and be a hole lot harder on the bottom end so ant the beginning the saw had . 036" and then I changed it to . 015" and now it's right at . 031" that was after taking a little bit off the base good enough for a work saw. FYI I'm getting lonely here guys what's going on everyone outside enjoying the sun. Lol


----------



## golddredgergold

I am here. Checked out your porting. Want to know how it runs. 
I am just finishing up my 660. I am hydro dipping my orange plastics before I fire it up. Don't want oil on the plastics before coating them. My clear coat is due in on Monday so I will get the dip done that day and clear them. Then I will be ready to fire it up. But here is a picture of it now.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> I am here. Checked out your porting. Want to know how it runs.
> I am just finishing up my 660. I am hydro dipping my orange plastics before I fire it up. Don't want oil on the plastics before coating them. My clear coat is due in on Monday so I will get the dip done that day and clear them. Then I will be ready to fire it up. But here is a picture of it now.
> View attachment 639866
> View attachment 639867
> View attachment 639868


Very cool can't wait to see how your plastic covers turn out. My saw runs great so far it's right where I expected it to be at the rpm in the cut we shall see how it goes with a 32"bar jut have a 28"bar on it right now hopefully one of my friends will be kind enough to give me a chain for my 32"bar. Lol.


----------



## 2412

I haven’t used my 660 much yet. Got it out the other day, and it wouldn’t idle down. The trigger didn’t feel right. I tried tuning, and noticed the idle speed screw did not seem to be engaging. Also, the choke lever didn’t feel right. 

Tore into it a couple days ago, thinking I might have to debur or hone some of the plastic. Turns out that the throttle rod was binding up where it hooks into the carb bell crank. On closer look, the hook was about 10° shy of a full 90. I corrected that, put it back together, and now it works like it should. Choke engages easily, pops into second position with a nudge, and flips to run with a little squeeze of the trigger. I tweaked the mixture screws, set the idle, and it is good to go. 

It may be time to order a second one!


----------



## MG porting

2412 said:


> I haven’t used my 660 much yet. Got it out the other day, and it wouldn’t idle down. The trigger didn’t feel right. I tried tuning, and noticed the idle speed screw did not seem to be engaging. Also, the choke lever didn’t feel right.
> 
> Tore into it a couple days ago, thinking I might have to debur or hone some of the plastic. Turns out that the throttle rod was binding up where it hooks into the carb bell crank. On closer look, the hook was about 10° shy of a full 90. I corrected that, put it back together, and now it works like it should. Choke engages easily, pops into second position with a nudge, and flips to run with a little squeeze of the trigger. I tweaked the mixture screws, set the idle, and it is good to go.
> 
> It may be time to order a second one!


Right on good to here that it all turned out for you. And Lol yep they are auditing and lots of fun building them it's always hard to stop with just one. Lol


----------



## Marco

You all ain't trying to make a silk purse out of a sows ear?


----------



## Marco

Oddjob has been less grief than a 026 I am trying to sort out.


----------



## MG porting

Marco said:


> You all ain't trying to make a silk purse out of a sows ear?


Nope mine can backup there photo Lol.


----------



## MG porting

Marco said:


> Oddjob has been less grief than a 026 I am trying to sort out.


That good. 026 should be pretty easy to get going.


----------



## Marco

Oddjob I pulled over 4 times on decomp slow to prime, 5 pull it fired, by 7th it was running. What more do you want? It starts better than a real Sthil.


----------



## Marco

So far a 295 Poulan Pro is kicking this 026 to the curb.


----------



## MG porting

Marco said:


> Oddjob I pulled over 4 times on decomp slow to prime, 5 pull it fired, by 7th it was running. What more do you want? It starts better than a real Sthil.


Tell me about it my 064 has 200 pounds of compression and it takes ten or twelve poles just to get it to pop on choke. Lol


----------



## Marco

Fix them if it don't matter, dumpster finds run forever. Try to fix up a "good" saw and it heads south.


----------



## MG porting

Marco said:


> Fix them if it don't matter, dumpster finds run forever. Try to fix up a "good" saw and it heads south.


I wish I could find some chainsaws in the trash cans if I did I'd be dumpster diving every day. Lol


----------



## Marco

XL-123 Homelite with a missing decomp throttle lock, I looked like somebody getting kinky with a turtle to start it.


----------



## MG porting

Marco said:


> XL-123 Homelite with a missing decomp throttle lock, I looked like somebody getting kinky with a turtle to start it.


￼￼ that's funny


----------



## Marco

That 123 would saw,probably still will.


----------



## Marco

Bedford gave some advise and I followed it, I got some OEM Stihl parts. I got a kit from HL. My deer hunting buddy Uncle Bill passed away, I have a big helper in the afternoons. We put this together while Mother and Father went to Kenosha for the service. The MS 660 kit was a day off thing, I just needed to be here to hold down the fort.


----------



## TheTone

golddredgergold said:


> I am here. Checked out your porting. Want to know how it runs.
> I am just finishing up my 660. I am hydro dipping my orange plastics before I fire it up. Don't want oil on the plastics before coating them. My clear coat is due in on Monday so I will get the dip done that day and clear them. Then I will be ready to fire it up. But here is a picture of it now.



I looked back a few pages but couldn't find a previous post about the clearcoat. I've been looking for a fuel resistant clearcoat for restored plastics. Can you give me more info?


----------



## golddredgergold

TheTone said:


> I looked back a few pages but couldn't find a previous post about the clearcoat. I've been looking for a fuel resistant clearcoat for restored plastics. Can you give me more info?


I am just using a good quality 2k clear coat. Commercial grade. Not rattle can. When applied dried and waxed it holds up darn good.


----------



## hacksaw11111

Hi all, looks like i have a problem with my build #2. The oiler hole is not drilled through. Unfortunately I already put the case halves together!
Can someone confirm this should be a through hole? Where the oiler seal goes?

not sure how i should proceed, drill it out together and get metal shavings in the oil well or try to split the case?

here is bedfords video where the seal goes


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> Hi all, looks like i have a problem with my build #2. The oiler hole is not drilled through. Unfortunately I already put the case halves together!
> Can someone confirm this should be a through hole? Where the oiler seal goes?
> 
> not sure how i should proceed, drill it out together and get metal shavings in the oil well or try to split the case?
> 
> here is bedfords video where the seal goes
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 640075
> View attachment 640076



Do not drill stop what you are doing look closely there's another hole that intersects with that hole up where the two bar studs are hold a flash like a confirm that there both drilled through.


----------



## MG porting

MG porting said:


> Do not drill stop what you are doing look closely there's another hole that intersects with that hole up where the two bar studs are hold a flash like a confirm that there both drilled through.


Flash light


----------



## hacksaw11111

MG porting said:


> Do not drill stop what you are doing look closely there's another hole that intersects with that hole up where the two bar studs are hold a flash like a confirm that there both drilled through.


thanks, for the help...was thinking this was like the last cylinder head they sent me, with the through holes 90% of the way through, but i think i can see where they meet on a 90...looks like the one (parallel to case) should have been drilled deeper though.


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> thanks, for the help...was thinking this was like the last cylinder head they sent me, with the through holes 90% of the way through, but i think i can see where they meet on a 90...looks like the one (parallel to case) should have been drilled deeper though.


 well I hope you are having fun building your saw I know the feeling when you come across something that makes you scratch your head. Lol so don't worry we all can help when asked. Can't wait to see yours all put together.


----------



## hacksaw11111

Missing m5 nuts, wrong spring, no chain catcher...same as last order...you would think they would have this down by now


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> Missing m5 nuts, wrong spring, no chain catcher...same as last order...you would think they would have this down by now


Yea it's seams that they would have figured out how to but the right parts with the right saw. Lol. But I think they like to keep us guessing


----------



## Ck0461

I put my clone through a test today. 40” oak uprooted on a buddy’s farm. Bucked to 6’-8’ lengths and ripped into quarters for milling later. Saw performed great. Only issue that I had was later in the day it began to be a pain to start when the saw was hot. Anyone else dealt with this?

I’m going to stick a new plug in it and adjust the carb to see if it corrects the issues next time out. It also could have be that I couldn’t pull the cord as fast after heaving it around all day.

Just to keep from being explained the difference in starting a hot and a cold saw, the choke wouldn’t be engaged when the saw was hot.


----------



## MG porting

Ck0461 said:


> I put my clone through a test today. 40” oak uprooted on a buddy’s farm. Bucked to 6’-8’ lengths and ripped into quarters for milling later. Saw performed great. Only issue that I had was later in the day it began to be a pain to start when the saw was hot. Anyone else dealt with this?
> 
> I’m going to stick a new plug in it and adjust the carb to see if it corrects the issues next time out. It also could have be that I couldn’t pull the cord as fast after heaving it around all day.
> 
> Just to keep from being explained the difference in starting a hot and a cold saw, the choke wouldn’t be engaged when the saw was hot.


You my have been running a little lean but you were running it in some hard would all day to witch it's going to run hot ether way. Good to here that it held up good job. I would check your tune like you stated and I would pop the muffler cover off and check and see how it looks inside the cylinder just to be safe it's something I do with all my saws it's cheap insurance.


----------



## Ck0461

I’m sure it wasn’t lean. I tune on the rich side and compression is enough to pull the saw out of your hands without the decomp pressed. 
The saws had about 5 gallons of fuel run through it, but today was the first time I’ve worked it on back to back tanks for several hours. It was also shut off and started a lot, due to moving the pieces out of the way. I’m not overly concerned. I just don’t have much experience with clones, unless you want to count all the AM rebuilds I’ve done. 

I have to say that y’all got the problematic parts in these kits figure out. Super fun projects


----------



## MG porting

Ck0461 said:


> I’m sure it wasn’t lean. I tune on the rich side and compression is enough to pull the saw out of your hands without the decomp pressed.
> The saws had about 5 gallons of fuel run through it, but today was the first time I’ve worked it on back to back tanks for several hours. It was also shut off and started a lot, due to moving the pieces out of the way. I’m not overly concerned. I just don’t have much experience with clones, unless you want to count all the AM rebuilds I’ve done.
> 
> I have to say that y’all got the problematic parts in these kits figure out. Super fun projects


OH yes they are lot's of fun if I had the funds I would build three more this year. Lol


----------



## golddredgergold

hacksaw11111 said:


> Missing m5 nuts, wrong spring, no chain catcher...same as last order...you would think they would have this down by now


I was missing the m5 nuts as well. One screw for the chain guard as well. And wrong spring.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> I was missing the m5 nuts as well. One screw for the chain guard as well. And wrong spring.


It's a mixed bag on what you will get and not get with these kits but you can go to your local dealer and get the missing items you need to get it going.


----------



## golddredgergold

MG porting said:


> It's a mixed bag on what you will get and not get with these kits but you can go to your local dealer and get the missing items you need to get it going.


A quick trip to ace hardware and I had the screw and nuts. So not a huge deal. I bought the spring ahead of time so had it. Over all stoked with my kit. Finish my plastics with hydro dip. And I will be ready to run it. Break in with a 20" bar then swap to a 42" on an alaskan mill. See how it goes. 070 next on the build list.


----------



## David.M

I started assembling my ms660 kit last night. =) Using all farmertec parts from the kit. No "upgrades" at this point.

Crank case halves in the oven at 245 degrees for 20 minutes. Crank in the freezer for 1-2 hours. Used the supplied crank case gasket, with no silicone or anything on it.
Put flywheel side of the case on the crank shaft first. It slid together like butter, by hand. No tools required. I worked quick though. Assembled within 10 seconds of removing from oven/freezer. I then set it on blocks, put the gasket in place, and got the pto side of the crank case out of the freezer. It was around the 45 second mark I think when I slid it on. It had some resistance and bound up tighter than I could press on by hand. I tapped on the top of the case with a rubber mallet to get it together. The case finally snapped together around the 1 minute mark, but it pushed the PTO side bearing most of the way out of the crank case. I then used a heat gun and laser thermometer to heat the case around the bearing to about 200 degrees, braced the assembly on the flywheel side crank shaft, and used a large socket and rubber mallet to pound on the outer race of the bearing and was able to get it seated down to where it should be with about 5 hits.

Note: If I do another kit, I am going to leave the case halves in the oven for 25-30 minutes, and freeze the crank for 5+ hours. With a slightly better temperature differential, I think both halves would have slid together by hand.

Test fit piston and cylinder before installing rings and 1184 to base. First, the cylinder contacted the side of the crank case so I had to fix that with a dremel as was illustrated on this thread a few pages back. After the cylinder was sitting flush on the crank case seating surface, I checked squish. Without the supplied 0.022" thick base gasket, the piston contacted the top of the cylinder. (enough that I couldn't rotate it through by hand) This was with cylinder bolts tightened. I then installed the base gasket and checked again. It rotated freely. Checked squish with solder through the spark plug hole, it measured 0.028". So the spot that I measured isn't the lowest spot....but it does rotate freely. 

I then installed rings, and put 1184 below and above the base gasket and got the cylinder torqued down. Then backed cylinder bolts out one at a time and applied blue lock-tite and reinstalled.


----------



## David.M

Many people recommend using the oil pump as a backing to seat the pto bearing against when assembling the crank cases. I didn't though because I didn't know if I the oil pump assembly would be damaged by being baked in the oven with the crank case, and I didn't want to take the time to install it after pulling the case out of the oven because I'd be losing heat. I was really going for speed on this attempt.

What do you guys do?


----------



## gchamber

David.M said:


> Many people recommend using the oil pump as a backing to seat the pto bearing against when assembling the crank cases. I didn't though because I didn't know if I the oil pump assembly would be damaged by being baked in the oven with the crank case, and I didn't want to take the time to install it after pulling the case out of the oven because I'd be losing heat. I was really going for speed on this attempt.
> 
> What do you guys do?


you're really going to want to upgrade some of the AM parts with OEM. Otherwise you'll get the whole saw together and then have to replace them 1 at a time as they fail anyway. Have you vac tested the cylinder yet? I'd be interested to see how the heat/freeze impacted your crank seals. It's 100% worth the $150-$200 in OEM parts for the peace of mind knowing the saw has quality components where they are needed the most. 

When I put the case together, I used a big C clamp and properly sized sockets on the inner races of the bearings. I was not finnagling with hot/cold parts that may or may not go together and having to worry about getting the crank properly centered, etc.


----------



## David.M

No vac test yet, but I will.

I didn't think about a C-clamp, but that's a good idea.


----------



## hacksaw11111

Order your parts today

eBay.com is offering an additional *15% Off Sitewide on Purchases of $25 or More* w/ promo code *PSPRINGTIME* (_apply in cart to receive discount Offer valid through March 20, 2018 until 7PM PST_


----------



## blsnelling

David.M said:


> ... it pushed the PTO side bearing most of the way out of the crank case. I then used a heat gun and laser thermometer to heat the case around the bearing to about 200 degrees, braced the assembly on the flywheel side crank shaft, and used a large socket and rubber mallet to pound on the outer race of the bearing and was able to get it seated down to where it should be with about 5 hits.


You really want to support the crank in the middle before doing this. Otherwise, you're liable to bend the crank.


----------



## David.M

Yeah I was concerned about that. Do you have suggestions for how to support the crank in the middle?

Also, I tried to install the chain tensioner parts last night. The drive gear (with the flat screwdriver slot) will not fit in the case. The OD of the gear is too large for the recess for it in the case. Should I dremel out the recess in the case, or buy another tensioner parts pack and hope a different pack comes with a smaller gear? I know this issue has been discussed somewhere in the 660 build threads, but now I can't seem to find it.


----------



## hacksaw11111

David.M said:


> I started assembling my ms660 kit last night. =) Using all farmertec parts from the kit. No "upgrades" at this point.
> 
> Crank case halves in the oven at 245 degrees for 20 minutes. Crank in the freezer for 1-2 hours. Used the supplied crank case gasket, with no silicone or anything on it.
> Put flywheel side of the case on the crank shaft first. It slid together like butter, by hand. No tools required. I worked quick though. Assembled within 10 seconds of removing from oven/freezer. I then set it on blocks, put the gasket in place, and got the pto side of the crank case out of the freezer. It was around the 45 second mark I think when I slid it on. It had some resistance and bound up tighter than I could press on by hand. I tapped on the top of the case with a rubber mallet to get it together. The case finally snapped together around the 1 minute mark, but it pushed the PTO side bearing most of the way out of the crank case. I then used a heat gun and laser thermometer to heat the case around the bearing to about 200 degrees, braced the assembly on the flywheel side crank shaft, and used a large socket and rubber mallet to pound on the outer race of the bearing and was able to get it seated down to where it should be with about 5 hits.
> 
> Note: If I do another kit, I am going to leave the case halves in the oven for 25-30 minutes, and freeze the crank for 5+ hours. With a slightly better temperature differential, I think both halves would have slid together by hand.
> 
> Test fit piston and cylinder before installing rings and 1184 to base. First, the cylinder contacted the side of the crank case so I had to fix that with a dremel as was illustrated on this thread a few pages back. After the cylinder was sitting flush on the crank case seating surface, I checked squish. Without the supplied 0.022" thick base gasket, the piston contacted the top of the cylinder. (enough that I couldn't rotate it through by hand) This was with cylinder bolts tightened. I then installed the base gasket and checked again. It rotated freely. Checked squish with solder through the spark plug hole, it measured 0.028". So the spot that I measured isn't the lowest spot....but it does rotate freely.
> 
> I then installed rings, and put 1184 below and above the base gasket and got the cylinder torqued down. Then backed cylinder bolts out one at a time and applied blue lock-tite and reinstalled.


You work faster than me, lol. did you put oil on the bearing and crank? I agree it takes a few hours to get the crank cold, but 30 mins is plenty for the case halves. had no problem going slower than you, couple wacks of the deal blow and it was done. oil is necessary tho


----------



## hacksaw11111

David.M said:


> Yeah I was concerned about that. Do you have suggestions for how to support the crank in the middle?
> 
> Also, I tried to install the chain tensioner parts last night. The drive gear (with the flat screwdriver slot) will not fit in the case. The OD of the gear is too large for the recess for it in the case. Should I dremel out the recess in the case, or buy another tensioner parts pack and hope a different pack comes with a smaller gear? I know this issue has been discussed somewhere in the 660 build threads, but now I can't seem to find it.


I think you're installing it incorrectly. check out post 1088 for a cool upgrade to the chain tensioner. https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/huztl-ms660.300307/page-55


----------



## David.M

I worked slower on the ms440 kit and had resistance on both sides. After watching a video on youtube where the case halves went together by hand with no tools after heating/freezing, I resolved to do it FAST on the 660 kit. I took a few minutes to get everything laid out before hand beside the oven and freezer so it was ready to go.

Yes, I did oil the crank shaft prior to freezing. I did not add oil to the bearings in the crank case halves.


----------



## David.M

Thanks for the link. I'm quite certain I am installing it correctly. I will try to post a picture later.


----------



## blsnelling

David.M said:


> Yeah I was concerned about that. Do you have suggestions for how to support the crank in the middle?
> 
> Also, I tried to install the chain tensioner parts last night. The drive gear (with the flat screwdriver slot) will not fit in the case. The OD of the gear is too large for the recess for it in the case. Should I dremel out the recess in the case, or buy another tensioner parts pack and hope a different pack comes with a smaller gear? I know this issue has been discussed somewhere in the 660 build threads, but now I can't seem to find it.


I use feeler gauges until they just fit snug. I have no advise on your chain tensioner.


----------



## David.M

Photo of the gear that doesn't fit. It is finger-tight wedged in there. Can't get it down any further by hand. I had the same problem with the MS440 kit and I ordered a new chain tentioner assembly from ebay for about $10, and the new one fit just fine.

Wondering if I should do the same for this one? Or use a dremel to make more clearance for the supplied gear.


----------



## MG porting

David.M said:


> Photo of the gear that doesn't fit. It is finger-tight wedged in there. Can't get it down any further by hand. I had the same problem with the MS440 kit and I ordered a new chain tentioner assembly from ebay for about $10, and the new one fit just fine.
> 
> Wondering if I should do the same for this one? Or use a dremel to make more clearance for the supplied gear.


Wow mine was a tight fit but yours is very bad I would go ahead and get yourself another one before doing any modification I will tell you how to modify the new gear if it is tight to but not as bad as the one you have.


----------



## David.M

Ordered a new tensioner assembly.


----------



## Ozhoo

David.M said:


> Many people recommend using the oil pump as a backing to seat the pto bearing against when assembling the crank cases. I didn't though because I didn't know if I the oil pump assembly would be damaged by being baked in the oven with the crank case, and I didn't want to take the time to install it after pulling the case out of the oven because I'd be losing heat. I was really going for speed on this attempt.
> 
> What do you guys do?



The oil pump is used as a stop on 440/460. It is NOT used as a stop on a 660. If you need a service manual, just ask.


----------



## David.M

Ok, good to know.


----------



## TheTone

David.M said:


> Many people recommend using the oil pump as a backing to seat the pto bearing against when assembling the crank cases. I didn't though because I didn't know if I the oil pump assembly would be damaged by being baked in the oven with the crank case, and I didn't want to take the time to install it after pulling the case out of the oven because I'd be losing heat. I was really going for speed on this attempt. What do you guys do?



Here is a stop made from a washer and using the oil pump bolts to hold it in place.

Outside . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inside




The case is an 026, but same principle. Also, this case assembly can be done without heat, freezing, presses, or hammers, using cheap homemade tools. But that's the subject of another post.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Hey hacksaw what's up buddy How's your kit running?


----------



## jackjcc

I had a new one today, flywheel was making contact with the cylinder. It was a cross cylinder and all I had to do was grind off the “cross” logo. The flywheel didn’t appear to be off axis but it only touched in a small spot as I turned. Has anybody else encountered that? 

My first kit has plenty of clearance. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MG porting

jackjcc said:


> I had a new one today, flywheel was making contact with the cylinder. It was a cross cylinder and all I had to do was grind off the “cross” logo. The flywheel didn’t appear to be off axis but it only touched in a small spot as I turned. Has anybody else encountered that?
> 
> My first kit has plenty of clearance.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not with the farmertec cylinder but they do have clearance problems with the case. I'm staying away from the cross cylinders because people have had lots of problems with them. And just as a friendly note it's not Master Minds fault he's not the one who is making them he's the one who gave cross the molds for the ports.


----------



## hacksaw11111

Hi guys, another question for ya, haha.
I put an AM big bore on this one. When the piston is at TDC I can see into the crankcase...i dont remember seeing this on the standard one, but idk. I put the metal gasket on and cylinder was pointing the right way. and i put too much sealer on i guess...
Is this ok?


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> Hi guys, another question for ya, haha.
> I put an AM big bore on this one. When the piston is at TDC I can see into the crankcase...i dont remember seeing this on the standard one, but idk. I put the metal gasket on and cylinder was pointing the right way. and i put too much sealer on i guess...
> Is this ok?


Um no that's why to much free port. I'd be getting a different one.


----------



## hacksaw11111

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Hey hacksaw what's up buddy How's your kit running?


one is running sill working on the second haha, had to wait for parts to come in


----------



## hacksaw11111

MG porting said:


> Um no that's why to much free port. I'd be getting a different one.


Thanks, that's what I was thinking. Pissed I paid extra for that. Guess I'll use the one that came with it. Probably can't reuse that gasket, to gonna have to get another one. 
When you use use a big bore kit, everything is the same except the cylinder, rings and piston, right? Is there something I'm missing or is this piston just wrong? Pissed I gotta take it apart...pain getting those circ clips off. I bought oem clips to. Can I reuse them? Or should you toss them when you remove them?


----------



## hacksaw11111

Has anyone bought a big bore kit from this seller? Guy sold 377, can't imagine i'm the only one with this issue? Also- as a heads up, I woundn't buy this one again, lol
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BIG-BORE-56mm-Cylinder-Piston-Ring-Kit-For-Stihl-066-MS660-066-Chainsaw-Parts/151628728786?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649#rwid


----------



## gchamber

hacksaw11111 said:


> Hi guys, another question for ya, haha.
> I put an AM big bore on this one. When the piston is at TDC I can see into the crankcase...i dont remember seeing this on the standard one, but idk. I put the metal gasket on and cylinder was pointing the right way. and i put too much sealer on i guess...
> Is this ok?


I can't see the picture, but minor freeporting is common in the big bore kits because in order to keep the case the same, they just shorten the piston skirt since the piston can't fit down into the case. Shortened piston skirt=freeport


----------



## hacksaw11111

ya, its a bit more than minor, more 4mm. I read 1mm but this is a lot more. waste of thirty bucks. maybe i'll try it anyway...i don't have another gasket to put the original on with anyway. 

Any harm that can come from too much freeport?


----------



## jackjcc

Burn more fuel...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hacksaw11111

David.M said:


> Photo of the gear that doesn't fit. It is finger-tight wedged in there. Can't get it down any further by hand. I had the same problem with the MS440 kit and I ordered a new chain tentioner assembly from ebay for about $10, and the new one fit just fine.
> 
> Wondering if I should do the same for this one? Or use a dremel to make more clearance for the supplied gear.


Hey all, wanted to confirm that the new black gear has too large of an OD won't fit in the hole...another OEM part you need to buy


----------



## Imprzed205

My gear wouldn't fit also and Not sure what model it fits. 
It had a couple more problems I wasn't ready for. But they were nothing that couldn't be worked around. 
Was kinda aggravating.


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> Has anyone bought a big bore kit from this seller? Guy sold 377, can't imagine i'm the only one with this issue? Also- as a heads up, I woundn't buy this one again, lol
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/BIG-BORE-56mm-Cylinder-Piston-Ring-Kit-For-Stihl-066-MS660-066-Chainsaw-Parts/151628728786?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649#rwid


No I don't use the big bore for the simple fact that they are a hit and miss with the free port issue there are some that don't but how many times do you have to one to get one that does not free port. Lol. Yea you can reuse the clips but I wouldn't recommend it there cheap so just get new ones if you ask me. And yes on the piston they took the skirts of the piston and made them shorter so they wouldn't hit the case and farmertec isn't the only one that has this problem.


----------



## MG porting

hacksaw11111 said:


> ya, its a bit more than minor, more 4mm. I read 1mm but this is a lot more. waste of thirty bucks. maybe i'll try it anyway...i don't have another gasket to put the original on with anyway.
> 
> Any harm that can come from too much freeport?


I'm a day late on my reply. Lol. Sorry about that.


----------



## MG porting

jackjcc said:


> Burn more fuel...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


And yes like you said burn more fuel and not much more power if any.


----------



## hacksaw11111

MG porting said:


> And yes like you said burn more fuel and not much more power if any.


what a great $30 upgrade i made lol! oh well live n learn


----------



## hacksaw11111

Imprzed205 said:


> My gear wouldn't fit also and Not sure what model it fits.
> It had a couple more problems I wasn't ready for. But they were nothing that couldn't be worked around.
> Was kinda aggravating.


Ya, luckily I have` a stihl dealer close who doesn't gouge me on price and a lot of tools. Anyone trying to put this together like a lego set is gonna be disappointed lol. Another clutch drum thats too tight too...need to be .630 these are like .627


----------



## golddredgergold

Got my 660 kit all done. Will fire it up later on today. Pretty happy with the outcome.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Got my 660 kit all done. Will fire it up later on today. Pretty happy with the outcome. View attachment 642084
> View attachment 642085
> View attachment 642086
> View attachment 642087
> View attachment 642088
> View attachment 642089
> View attachment 642090
> View attachment 642091


That is very flipping cool!!!!


----------



## Ozhoo

golddredgergold said:


> Got my 660 kit all done. Will fire it up later on today. Pretty happy with the outcome.



She needs a 3/4 wrap and west coast clutch cover now. Awesome job.


----------



## Bedford T

David.M said:


> Many people recommend using the oil pump as a backing to seat the pto bearing against when assembling the crank cases. I didn't though because I didn't know if I the oil pump assembly would be damaged by being baked in the oven with the crank case, and I didn't want to take the time to install it after pulling the case out of the oven because I'd be losing heat. I was really going for speed on this attempt.
> 
> What do you guys do?


That was on the 440 with the oil pump. Some of the saws are designed differently. Glad you did not bake that.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

hacksaw11111 said:


> I think you're installing it incorrectly. check out post 1088 for a cool upgrade to the chain tensioner. https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/huztl-ms660.300307/page-55


That's not a upgrade that was a fix dav figured out for case being off.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Got my 660 kit all done. Will fire it up later on today. Pretty happy with the outcome. View attachment 642084
> View attachment 642085
> View attachment 642086
> View attachment 642087
> View attachment 642088
> View attachment 642089
> View attachment 642090
> View attachment 642091


Dang, them is some pretty legos. And the orange header wrap is a great addition.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## golddredgergold

Well fired her up. She runs great. Had to tweak the idle adjustment bar on the carb. Idle screw all the way in still no idle. They bend very easy so slight tweak up and the idle adjustment works great. Pumps oil. Starts fine. But you need to get after it or it will jerk the rope out of you hand! But very excited it has got pep. Will get it into some wood very soon. Weather is supposed to clear up for the next 2 weeks buuuutttt....turkey season starts shortly so I will be busy for a bit.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Well fired her up. She runs great. Had to tweak the idle adjustment bar on the carb. Idle screw all the way in still no idle. They bend very easy so slight tweak up and the idle adjustment works great. Pumps oil. Starts fine. But you need to get after it or it will jerk the rope out of you hand! But very excited it has got pep. Will get it into some wood very soon. Weather is supposed to clear up for the next 2 weeks buuuutttt....turkey season starts shortly so I will be busy for a bit.


Very cool glad you got it going she looks amazing. Yea hunting can be priority no doubt about that !!


----------



## morbius18

I discovered a 660 related carb today. My TS400 had a snapped off choke shaft. I thought it looked familiar. If only it had an adjustable H....






Choke shaft is opposite on these. And throttle is different. I'm going to try to see if it will switch over.


----------



## morbius18

morbius18 said:


> I discovered a 660 related carb today. My TS400 had a snapped off choke shaft. I thought it looked familiar. If only it had an adjustable H....
> 
> View attachment 642203
> View attachment 642204
> View attachment 642205
> View attachment 642206
> 
> Choke shaft is opposite on these. And throttle is different. I'm going to try to see if it will switch over.



660 wj-67 jet is .64, high altitude is .64
Ts400 wj-108 jet is .74


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> 660 wj-67 jet is .64, high altitude is .64
> Ts400 wj-108 jet is .74


Is the impulse in the same place

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## morbius18

Bedford T said:


> Is the impulse in the same place
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info



Yes, photo of impulse and compensating top. They are the same size, I took it at a slight angle. Fuel feed would have to be rotated.



The nipple on the comp top is the same thing principal as the snorkle, it just has a line to go behind the filter to clean/non dusty air.


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> Yes, photo of impulse and compensating top. They are the same size, I took it at a slight angle. Fuel feed would have to be rotated.View attachment 642209
> View attachment 642210
> 
> 
> The nipple on the comp top is the same thing principal as the snorkle, it just has a line to go behind the filter to clean/non dusty air.


sorry, That was supposed to have been deleted. I have been working with my 025 off and on all day. The second I hit send, I went OS. I deleted refreshed and it showed gone. Dumb phone

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

Well after the crazy morning I had today I still manage to get in the garage and tare down my first ms660 down for some much needed help in the squish area at first it started at . 034 and Yea it ran great with that after I did my port work to it but I new there was more on the table with this saw and me being who I am couldn't let it go. Lol. So after taking the base down a little bit and voila! . 024 I can live with that but my spare ms660 we I get out of the dog house I'll be changing the piston and cylinder hopefully soon and that one I'm going to shoot for . 020 or . 022 just because I guess. Lol.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Well after the crazy morning I had today I still manage to get in the garage and tare down my first ms660 down for some much needed help in the squish area at first it started at . 034 and Yea it ran great with that after I did my port work to it but I new there was more on the table with this saw and me being who I am couldn't let it go. Lol. So after taking the base down a little bit and voila! . 024 I can live with that but my spare ms660 we I get out of the dog house I'll be changing the piston and cylinder hopefully soon and that one I'm going to shoot for . 020 or . 022 just because I guess. Lol. View attachment 642866


I wish I could participate. My lung function sux. Adding compression means I can not start the saw.

What do you use a Dremel, air tool or what. Do you have a lathe? The process is very interesting to me.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I wish I could participate. My lung function sux. Adding compression means I can not start the saw.
> 
> What do you use a Dremel, air tool or what. Do you have a lathe? The process is very interesting to me.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


HI there Bedford T. Well for my port work I use a dremel for taking the base down I use a flat piece of glass and place my sandpaper on top then the fun begins with making sure that the cylinder stays flat and making sure that you move the cylinder around or changing direction of movement it takes time doing it this way but I feel I have more control over the amount of material that is being taken off my friend who has a lathe always laughs every now and then every time I brake out my peas of glass to make something flat.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> HI there Bedford T. Well for my port work I use a dremel for taking the base down I use a flat piece of glass and place my sandpaper on top then the fun begins with making sure that the cylinder stays flat and making sure that you move the cylinder around or changing direction of movement it takes time doing it this way but I feel I have more control over the amount of material that is being taken off my friend who has a lathe always laughs every now and then every time I brake out my peas of glass to make something flat. [emoji23]


That's actually a very plain intelligent way to do it. Patience and steady hand would give you a flat surface. No expensive lathe required. I will remember that. I got a Dremel and thought about giving it a go, have yet to do it. I have the pencil attachment. I need to get some cutters. And I have two cylinders that could be for practice. One day...

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> That's actually a very plain intelligent way to do it. Patience and steady hand would give you a flat surface. No expensive lathe required. I will remember that. I got a Dremel and thought about giving it a go, have yet to do it. I have the pencil attachment. I need to get some cutters. And I have two cylinders that could be for practice. One day...
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Yep that's how you get good at it. Lol. Lots of practice but can be fun on top of that to Get a assortment of carbide bits they work the best for doing port work but there not cheap so you might have to buy one one month and the next one another month like I did. Lol.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Yep that's how you get good at it. Lol. Lots of practice but can be fun on top of that to Get a assortment of carbide bits they work the best for doing port work but there not cheap so you might have to buy one one month and the next one another month like I did. Lol.


Lol, that is excatly how I aquire stuff. Lots of folks charge. I am a cash only dude. It's a slower process but there is no sweating involved when the bill comes due. Just a large amount of envy. Lol. I will put carbide on the list. Thanks for the tip.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Lol, that is excatly how I aquire stuff. Lots of folks charge. I am a cash only dude. It's a slower process but there is no sweating involved when the bill comes due. Just a large amount of envy. Lol. I will put carbide on the list. Thanks for the tip.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Yep you bet. And when you do decide to try taking on doing some port work I can help you out with the duo's and donts to help keep you in the right direction.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Lol, that is excatly how I aquire stuff. Lots of folks charge. I am a cash only dude. It's a slower process but there is no sweating involved when the bill comes due. Just a large amount of envy. Lol. I will put carbide on the list. Thanks for the tip.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Yep you bet. And when you do decide to try taking on doing some port work I can help you out with the duo's and donts to help keep you in the right direction.


----------



## cedar rat

Got my MS66 put together, one seal was not looking quite right, so it was replaced. Only really bad part was the chain tensioner, the gear was not on the end of the adjustment screw, it had been broke off before it was packaged. Took the chain tensioner out of my 044 until I can get one shipped to me.

The only other problem was the kit was missing nuts and bolts for the dogs. But as luck would have it I had a set of falling dogs and the mounting bolts in my parts box.

The cylinder was really nice no pits or marring, one port had a rough edge that smoothed out with 400 grit in no time. Rings were awfully sloppy on the piston, which made aligning to the pins slightly more difficult, solved the problem by using some plastic packing straps for a home made ring compressor.

It was quite a fun project.

Tomorrow I will be firing it up for the first time.


----------



## MG porting

cedar rat said:


> Got my MS66 put together, one seal was not looking quite right, so it was replaced. Only really bad part was the chain tensioner, the gear was not on the end of the adjustment screw, it had been broke off before it was packaged. Took the chain tensioner out of my 044 until I can get one shipped to me.
> 
> The only other problem was the kit was missing nuts and bolts for the dogs. But as luck would have it I had a set of falling dogs and the mounting bolts in my parts box.
> 
> The cylinder was really nice no pits or marring, one port had a rough edge that smoothed out with 400 grit in no time. Rings were awfully sloppy on the piston, which made aligning to the pins slightly more difficult, solved the problem by using some plastic packing straps for a home made ring compressor.
> 
> It was quite a fun project.
> 
> Tomorrow I will be firing it up for the first time.


Cool can't wait to hear how it goes for you.


----------



## Bedford T

cedar rat said:


> Got my MS66 put together, one seal was not looking quite right, so it was replaced. Only really bad part was the chain tensioner, the gear was not on the end of the adjustment screw, it had been broke off before it was packaged. Took the chain tensioner out of my 044 until I can get one shipped to me.
> 
> The only other problem was the kit was missing nuts and bolts for the dogs. But as luck would have it I had a set of falling dogs and the mounting bolts in my parts box.
> 
> The cylinder was really nice no pits or marring, one port had a rough edge that smoothed out with 400 grit in no time. Rings were awfully sloppy on the piston, which made aligning to the pins slightly more difficult, solved the problem by using some plastic packing straps for a home made ring compressor.
> 
> It was quite a fun project.
> 
> Tomorrow I will be firing it up for the first time.


I bet they have sold 5000 kits and never once provided those nuts. Nice you could rob Peter to pay Paul. Hopefully you tested it and she runs real nice for you. Looking forward to hearing

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Brian Thacker

Went out cutting this afternoon with a friend. Sense my SP125c McCulloch is down being rebuilt I took my MS660. As always it performed flawlessly until I hit something in the wood and sparks flew and the chain quit cutting. Oh well cannot win them all. But it was cutting like a dream up until that point.

Brian


----------



## MG porting

Brian Thacker said:


> Went out cutting this afternoon with a friend. Sense my SP125c McCulloch is down being rebuilt I took my MS660. As always it performed flawlessly until I hit something in the wood and sparks flew and the chain quit cutting. Oh well cannot win them all. But it was cutting like a dream up until that point.
> 
> Brian
> View attachment 643111
> 
> View attachment 643112


Nice size tree. I know the feeling when you are in the middle of a cut and all of sudden the foul words come out because you know that your going to have to sharpen the chain because someone drove a nail or something in the tree 25 years ago. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> Went out cutting this afternoon with a friend. Sense my SP125c McCulloch is down being rebuilt I took my MS660. As always it performed flawlessly until I hit something in the wood and sparks flew and the chain quit cutting. Oh well cannot win them all. But it was cutting like a dream up until that point.
> 
> Brian
> View attachment 643111
> 
> View attachment 643112


That sux. What part of the tree did it happen? Hard to tell from photo. One of my many trees has a wire embedded about 5ft off the ground. Maybe part of a fence. 200$ bar + 45$ chain I should tattoo the tree. We need some treedar. To see metal in a tree. Lol

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Brian Thacker

It was about 60 feet up. I wonder if a metal detector would work on a tree? Out in the woods I don't hit much, but trees close to houses I always hit things. I hit two T posts once about two weeks apart. 

Brian


----------



## Marco

Iron usually leaves purple spots


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> It was about 60 feet up. I wonder if a metal detector would work on a tree? Out in the woods I don't hit much, but trees close to houses I always hit things. I hit two T posts once about two weeks apart.
> 
> Brian


I have often wondered how that works. Let's say someone drives something in a young tree around ground level, 90 years later guy cuts the tree down and is sawing it up and gets a surprise 60 ft up. Is that likely the same item that was in the tree? And I really think a detector would work and save time and money long term. There are huge tree contractors who might know more about what's in use, or saw Mills might have something they run the sticks through before they hit the blades. I will try to ask the guys next time I see those trucks.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## golddredgergold

Ordered a 42" bar for my ms660. Be here next week Friday. Will post pics when it arrives.


----------



## Marco

Bedford T said:


> I have often wondered how that works. Let's say someone drives something in a young tree around ground level, 90 years later guy cuts the tree down and is sawing it up and gets a surprise 60 ft up. Is that likely the same item that was in the tree? And I really think a detector would work and save time and money long term. There are huge tree contractors who might know more about what's in use, or saw Mills might have something they run the sticks through before they hit the blades. I will try to ask the guys next time I see those trucks.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


trees grow out and add to the top, fence wire stays the same height


----------



## Bedford T

Marco said:


> trees grow out and add to the top, fence wire stays the same height


 so how does a piece of metal make it up 60 ft in the air?

this answered my question and gave me a different way to think about it.
https://www.popularmechanics.com/ho...s-when-big-blades-strike-heavy-metal-8732613/


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Ordered a 42" bar for my ms660. Be here next week Friday. Will post pics when it arrives.


i bet that is one heavy bar.


----------



## Marco

Bedford T said:


> so how does a piece of metal make it up 60 ft in the air?
> 
> this answered my question and gave me a different way to think about it.
> https://www.popularmechanics.com/ho...s-when-big-blades-strike-heavy-metal-8732613/


Autistic tree rats will haul gravel.
Tree huggers at one time showed activists how to spike trees.


----------



## Brian Thacker

I would bet someone hung something up there at some point. Maybe their was a tree house or I have seen people mount dusk to dawn lights in trees. A kid playing, Who knows but what ever it was sent sparks out. Their was a storm coming in and it was getting dark so I could see the sparks well. I was afraid of the trunk because it had a lot of blue in it but would not have suspected anything up this high.

Brian


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> i bet that is one heavy bar.


Yes going to weigh a bit but I cut large redwood and poderosa slabs and logs regularly. So need a large bar.


----------



## golddredgergold

Hey a heads up. Mitty has the wj76 carbs back in stock. Just ordered mine.


----------



## Stihl 041S

golddredgergold said:


> Ordered a 42" bar for my ms660. Be here next week Friday. Will post pics when it arrives.


What kind did you get?
Good price?


----------



## golddredgergold

Stihl 041S said:


> What kind did you get?
> Good price?


Forester bar on ebay with chain and one of the super coupon codes was $104 delivered. Could not pass that up. I have a 20" forester on my 041av and its great. No problem s. So I went ahead and got one for my ms660


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Forester bar on ebay with chain and one of the super coupon codes was $104 delivered. Could not pass that up. I have a 20" forester on my 041av and its great. No problem s. So I went ahead and got one for my ms660


Yea that's a smoking deal.


----------



## Bedford T

In the interest of WTF, I set off on a hunt on a solution. I found the chains used here on the rescue saws. Rapco, I checked for a 16" chain that might live through surprises is 150$ for that small size and about 47$ to sharpen, it's .60 a link to sharpen. It will last about 25x longer than regular chain between sharpenings. It would be ok to pay 47$ after an encounter. 

But reading that article made it clear somebody put it there.

Love to hear how you like the bar. It would be nice to have a longer one, cause you never know. Iif I cut for a living I would buy a long bar and spent a fortune on a carbide chain for it. 

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> In the interest of WTF, I set off on a hunt on a solution. I found the chains used here on the rescue saws. Rapco, I checked for a 16" chain that might live through surprises is 150$ for that small size and about 47$ to sharpen, it's .60 a link to sharpen. It will last about 25x longer than regular chain between sharpenings. It would be ok to pay 47$ after an encounter.
> 
> But reading that article made it clear somebody put it there.
> 
> Love to hear how you like the bar. It would be nice to have a longer one, cause you never know. Iif I cut for a living I would buy a long bar and spent a fortune on a carbide chain for it.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Yea it's crazy how much they want for chains even Stihl chains aren't cheap there good but not cheap.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Yea it's crazy how much they want for chains even Stihl chains aren't cheap there good but not cheap.


I am taking trees down, slowly. I want to cut the stumps even with the ground and tails of metal worried me. I am a tight wad or poor, lol which ever works best. So 150$ 16" chain makes me a little crazy

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I am taking trees down, slowly. I want to cut the stumps even with the ground and tails of metal worried me. I am a tight wad or poor, lol which ever works best. So 150$ 16" chain makes me a little crazy
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Yea unfortunately I feel your pain. Stumping is a tuff one on chains just for the simple fact your close to the ground and rocks never fun when you get half way through and oops dang rock in the middle of the stump.


----------



## morbius18

Bedford T said:


> I am taking trees down, slowly. I want to cut the stumps even with the ground and tails of metal worried me. I am a tight wad or poor, lol which ever works best. So 150$ 16" chain makes me a little crazy
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info



I've got an ms250 with 18" bar for stump cutting. I cut them flush with the dirt. We're adding 3/4 acre of woods to our horse pasture. I'm having to do the same thing so I can get the bush hog over them.

On a related note: one of my brother's friends bought this 660. It had a 36" in non skip tooth chain and bar. It pulled and didn't bog in this maple:



It had a chain tensioner issue, that I'm switching out for him tomorrow.


----------



## MG porting

morbius18 said:


> I've got an ms250 with 18" bar for stump cutting. I cut them flush with the dirt. We're adding 3/4 acre of woods to our horse pasture. I'm having to do the same thing so I can get the bush hog over them.
> 
> On a related note: one of my brother's friends bought this 660. It had a 36" in non skip tooth chain and bar. It pulled and didn't bog in this maple:
> 
> View attachment 643933
> 
> It had a chain tensioner issue, that I'm switching out for him tomorrow.


That was definitely a old maple.


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> I've got an ms250 with 18" bar for stump cutting. I cut them flush with the dirt. We're adding 3/4 acre of woods to our horse pasture. I'm having to do the same thing so I can get the bush hog over them.
> 
> On a related note: one of my brother's friends bought this 660. It had a 36" in non skip tooth chain and bar. It pulled and didn't bog in this maple:
> 
> View attachment 643933
> 
> It had a chain tensioner issue, that I'm switching out for him tomorrow.


That's a good size tree, looks like it handled it. My 025 wound up with a sticky engine and I am replacing the piston, going to order tomorrow. I also think I have that FarmerTec ms250 kit running. There were so many poor parts I set it aside. I have replaced everything significant now. Yesterday, I pinched the coil wire and ran a screw through the wire while tightening it down so I gotta get a wire too. The 250 sounds like it will be my stump saw then. Do you use a carbide chain on it?

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## morbius18

Bedford T said:


> That's a good size tree, looks like it handled it. My 025 wound up with a sticky engine and I am replacing the piston, going to order tomorrow. I also think I have that FarmerTec ms250 kit running. There were so many poor parts I set it aside. I have replaced everything significant now. Yesterday, I pinched the coil wire and ran a screw through the wire while tightening it down so I gotta get a wire too. The 250 sounds like it will be my stump saw then. Do you use a carbide chain on it?
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info



Mine is an oem 250 I got for $150 from a pawn shop. I did a muffler mod and carb adjust. I use plain chain, I have 3 that I rotate. I usually have to hand file it 2 or 3 strokes after each dirt expedition though. The biggest that I had to do were 2 empress/princess trees that were about 16 inches though. Most were under 12.

I'm building an 026 pro that might take its place, but I don't know if I can bring myself to use it in the dirt...


----------



## Bedford T

morbius18 said:


> Mine is an oem 250 I got for $150 from a pawn shop. I did a muffler mod and carb adjust. I use plain chain, I have 3 that I rotate. I usually gave to hand file it 2 or 3 strokes after each dirt expedition though. The biggest that I had to do were 2 empress/princess trees that were about 16 inches though. Most were under 12.


My 025 was a pawn find.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Marco

Oddjob seems to be fine, a helpful thing for seals and bearings would be a collection of different sized wrist pins from bigger engines. Wrist pins are awesome to have around. 
Might be worth ones while to offer to prep pistons for scrap to get the wrist pins.


----------



## Marco

This bugger cuts, clips, bearing, chain brake spring, Caber rings and a Hyway decomp.


----------



## Bedford T

84678100
84679101

this sucks


----------



## golddredgergold

Got my 42" bar now the rain needs to stop flying so I can do some break in cuts then put it on my mill and start slabbing. Lame photo indoors. Its just pouring outside.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Got my 42" bar now the rain needs to stop flying so I can do some break in cuts then put it on my mill and start slabbing. Lame photo indoors. Its just pouring outside.View attachment 644775


Are you pleased with the quality? Sure looks long, was mommy unhappy you brought the big fella indoors? Lol

The weather is frustrating

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## MG porting

Marco said:


> This bugger cuts, clips, bearing, chain brake spring, Caber rings and a Hyway decomp.





golddredgergold said:


> Got my 42" bar now the rain needs to stop flying so I can do some break in cuts then put it on my mill and start slabbing. Lame photo indoors. Its just pouring outside.View attachment 644775


She looks hot love it!


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> Are you pleased with the quality? Sure looks long, was mommy unhappy you brought the big fella indoors? Lol
> 
> 
> 
> The weather is frustrating
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info



Lol yes its a big one and heavy. But I have lots of big redwood trees to slab. So I need big saws. Got a 60" bar on my 895 Mac. This 660 will be my mid sized setup. Bar is around 8 pounds. Got to get 1 more chain for the 42" to grind into a ripping chain.
Nah she does not get pissed. I have 3 saws on the front room floor right now. I keep them really clean so not to much of a problem. I like to look at them.


----------



## golddredgergold

Curious to know. I bought the high output oil pump from Ireland seller on eBay. It dose not seem to really oil much. Got it on full or turned up all the way and it oils just not a huge amount and it took it a good 5 minutes run time before it started to be visable on the chain. How much should I expect from it? I had not run the original kit pump with a bar so I don't know how it compares.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Curious to know. I bought the high output oil pump from Ireland seller on eBay. It dose not seem to really oil much. Got it on full or turned up all the way and it oils just not a huge amount and it took it a good 5 minutes run time before it started to be visable on the chain. How much should I expect from it? I had not run the original kit pump with a bar so I don't know how it compares.


I've been noticing with the oil pumps sometimes they need ran in or could say broke in then it should start pumping a good amount for you. I'm running the farmertec oiler in mine and it oils a 32" bar and chain that I just put on it with no problem what so ever and it seems to eat the same amount of bar oil as fuel hope this helps you out a little bit.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T sense I've been lacking the fund's to get a good cylinder kit for my ms660 I went ahead and bought another fantastic cylinder kit just for kicks I'll post some pics of it this evening befores and afters it's not a pretty one but I think I can clean it up and make it a good runner.


----------



## golddredgergold

MG porting said:


> I've been noticing with the oil pumps sometimes they need ran in or could say broke in then it should start pumping a good amount for you. I'm running the farmertec oiler in mine and it oils a 32" bar and chain that I just put on it with no problem what so ever and it seems to eat the same amount of bar oil as fuel hope this helps you out a little bit.


Got you. I expected more. Was wondering if it just had air trapped in it still. I will keep cutting during break in. See if it comes around.


----------



## golddredgergold

She is a ripper though. Cut a 34" log no problem. Just slices right through even though I have it on the fat side. Pretty darn happy with my budget 660. I ran it for awhile now I am going to check my cylinder bolts. Then she will be ready to rip again.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Got you. I expected more. Was wondering if it just had air trapped in it still. I will keep cutting during break in. See if it comes around.


Hope it does surprise being a high output you would think it would still run oil like crazy but never know


golddredgergold said:


> She is a ripper though. Cut a 34" log no problem. Just slices right through even though I have it on the fat side. Pretty darn happy with my budget 660. I ran it for awhile now I am going to check my cylinder bolts. Then she will be ready to rip again.


It's a great feeling when you build something and it runs like a charm good to here that it worked out for you maybe build another one for spare. Lol


----------



## golddredgergold

Think I am going to do an 070 next with 090 cylinder.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> She is a ripper though. Cut a 34" log no problem. Just slices right through even though I have it on the fat side. Pretty darn happy with my budget 660. I ran it for awhile now I am going to check my cylinder bolts. Then she will be ready to rip again.


The 660 max bar size is 36" so the oiler is not going to oil a 42" bar very well, it would be much better than the regular oiler. High out for the max bar size is the thought process for them. For you guys it means every bar size. You need an auxiliary oiler on your mill which is like a strap on tank. I would definitely only use Stihl silver bar oil while you are noddling or with only the long bar and a auxillary at all times on the mill or the bar and chain will not last. Good job on checking those head bolts the vibration is really hard on them.

http://www.baileysonline.com/shop.a...Ylr1krYl7But-JjAKbX7fM7m2gUl0aghoCLYwQAvD_BwE






http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Think I am going to do an 070 next with 090 cylinder.


You would not want to mess with the 660 again on the mill after using the big boy. The bars are not going to be interchangeable. I suggest you stick with the 404. Yeah it's a a pain having different chains but a big chain on a big bar cuts good. Others will argue to the death over that. I wish my phone would alert me when posts are made

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Bedford T sense I've been lacking the fund's to get a good cylinder kit for my ms660 I went ahead and bought another fantastic cylinder kit just for kicks I'll post some pics of it this evening befores and afters it's not a pretty one but I think I can clean it up and make it a good runner.


What did you get? 

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Curious to know. I bought the high output oil pump from Ireland seller on eBay. It dose not seem to really oil much. Got it on full or turned up all the way and it oils just not a huge amount and it took it a good 5 minutes run time before it started to be visable on the chain. How much should I expect from it? I had not run the original kit pump with a bar so I don't know how it compares.


Did you check the position of the oiler hole in your new bar, size, position can also have an impact on distribution, just one of many things we need to keep an eye on. You would think there would be no need to check but lately I find there is a great many reasons to check everything out first hand. The oiler you bought is keeping my 28" bar wet with oil the kit oiler was much lighter. The stroke is .9 on kit oiler and h/o is 1.15mm the 1.15 is .2 fluid ounces per minute

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> What did you get?
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


I wound up getting another farmertec 54mm cylinder kit. And boy was it needing some help Lol


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> What did you get?
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


I got another fantastic 54mm cylinder kit. Lol it needed a some help that's for sure.


----------



## MG porting

Grate the site is slow so I ended up replying twice. Lol


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> What did you get?
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Here's some before and afters and let me tell you the NiCi. They put on this cilinder is insanely hard even harder than the NiCi. That on my 064 cylinder so my port work although this thing should run pretty good but it not purity I'm almost embarrassed to show it but like I've learnt in the past pretty don't always mean it's going to run better........


----------



## golddredgergold

My mill has a very nice remote oiler on it. So that's covered for sure. I run it always on the mill.
I run the ms660 saw some more today. Seems the get smoother the more it runs. Also have much more oil today on the bar. My thoughts are it has air trapped in the oiler piston and until it purges all that it doesn't oil full bore. But I have oil slinging off the tip today.
My big mac 895 has the Cannon 60" bar. It's actually a big stihl 070 090 bar with 404 chain. So the new kit 090 will bolt right on in place. So that's awesome. I want this 660 for mid sized logs. I don't like to run the giant saw on small logs. Its to off balance. I run my 041 with 20" bar on my 20" mill and will set my big mill up to hold the 42 and of course it holds the 60 as well. Pretty all around setup. And this way I have a saw free to do regular cuts and one saw still on the mill. Is it all to excessive? Of course it is thats the fun of it!
Pic of my oiler and big mac attack. The pick of the mac on the mill does not have the oil tank on it as I had not fabbed and welded that up yet.


----------



## golddredgergold

And here is the logs we are normally cutting.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> And here is the logs we are normally cutting.
> View attachment 645321
> View attachment 645325


Lots of boards will come out of that log. Lol


----------



## golddredgergold

MG porting said:


> Lots of boards will come out of that log. Lol


We (son and I) slab them at 3.5" to 3.750" then dry and build big conference tables, dinner tables, or bar tops and desks. I will get some video of the ms 660 milling for you guys here.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> We (son and I) slab them at 3.5" to 3.750" then dry and build big conference tables, dinner tables, or bar tops and desks. I will get some video of the ms 660 milling for you guys here.


Nice that would be great to see in action.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> My mill has a very nice remote oiler on it. So that's covered for sure. I run it always on the mill.
> I run the ms660 saw some more today. Seems the get smoother the more it runs. Also have much more oil today on the bar. My thoughts are it has air trapped in the oiler piston and until it purges all that it doesn't oil full bore. But I have oil slinging off the tip today.
> My big mac 895 has the Cannon 60" bar. It's actually a big stihl 070 090 bar with 404 chain. So the new kit 090 will bolt right on in place. So that's awesome. I want this 660 for mid sized logs. I don't like to run the giant saw on small logs. Its to off balance. I run my 041 with 20" bar on my 20" mill and will set my big mill up to hold the 42 and of course it holds the 60 as well. Pretty all around setup. And this way I have a saw free to do regular cuts and one saw still on the mill. Is it all to excessive? Of course it is thats the fun of it!
> Pic of my oiler and big mac attack. The pick of the mac on the mill does not have the oil tank on it as I had not fabbed and welded that up yet.
> View attachment 645298
> View attachment 645299


You look like my brother, if I had one. Nice mill. I have the little 36" huztl one

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Thumbs

WOW! Thanks to everyone for this amazing thread. I'm looking to do some milling and just can't get around the $1000+ for a big saw, then the mill, chains, etc. Going with a kit saw makes it fit my budget, the great info here and elsewhere gives me confidence to deal with any issues.

But which 660 kit to buy? The eBay guy has them at ~$285 w/ free shipping (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-P...884798?hash=item33e49de3be:g:3DgAAOSwtn9ZzgkB) Huztl has a kit for $186+$86s/h = $272.

Bedford, you recommend the upgraded carb from Mitty, ~$38 plus s/h, for milling, correct? (https://mittysupply.com/product/wj-76-1-walbro-carburetor-new-genuine/)
Lots of recommendations for various oem parts. Should I figure about $150 for those?

The vacuum kit is pricey- can I use my HVAC kit instead? I forgot to look at the fittings, etc., but ass-me that most of the cost is in the gauge.

Thanks again.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> We (son and I) slab them at 3.5" to 3.750" then dry and build big conference tables, dinner tables, or bar tops and desks. I will get some video of the ms 660 milling for you guys here.


I just noticed in one of your posts you refer to your big Mac bar. If it is the Stihl large mount that they sell today it will not fit the 070. That's right. Will not work, unless you redrill the oil hole and that might change how it works on your Mac. I bought a Stihl bar at the Stihl store. Their documents showed they were selling me the correct bar. They were mad at me when it did not work and I wanted to return it. So I point that out so you can look into it and see if it will cause you trouble. I bought a cannon bar because I was not redrilling a new bar. Even though the cannon was 2x $ the stihl. I told them that was totally unexceptable to not sell a single bar that worked on a 090. I knew not to mention the 070.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> I wound up getting another farmertec 54mm cylinder kit. And boy was it needing some help Lol


I was wondering if you went for the 56 so it could really keep you busy. Lol The 54 is a safe bet. Do you keep an eye on eBay? I have started to watch for cylinders. When I get some cash I take a quick look and see if there are any firesales. I have had great luck with some parts and not so much on others. You just have to keep an eye peeled.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I was wondering if you went for the 56 so it could really keep you busy. Lol The 54 is a safe bet. Do you keep an eye on eBay? I have started to watch for cylinders. When I get some cash I take a quick look and see if there are any firesales. I have had great luck with some parts and not so much on others. You just have to keep an eye peeled.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


I watch Ebay for the most part this cylinder has some hard NiCi I'm really surprised but there is a problem with it on the top of the cylinder it has a ring on the squish band that comes out from the cylinder wall and I've done some measurements and if I leave it there my squish will be around . 033 and I want . 023 on this one so I'm going to have to figure out how to get it out of there. Lol. Yea I do have a piston for a big bore but no cylinder I don't think it's worth putting a big bore on the ms660 the way I port them they make plenty of power for a work saw.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> I watch Ebay for the most part this cylinder has some hard NiCi I'm really surprised but there is a problem with it on the top of the cylinder it has a ring on the squish band that comes out from the cylinder wall and I've done some measurements and if I leave it there my squish will be around . 033 and I want . 023 on this one so I'm going to have to figure out how to get it out of there. Lol. Yea I do have a piston for a big bore but no cylinder I don't think it's worth putting a big bore on the ms660 the way I port them they make plenty of power for a work saw.


I don't have a spare cylinder and I should. I thought all nikasil was hard. Lol I got a spare 440 case and that is just begging me to do something with it. You know how it works. You got a piston, well now I need a cylinder for it, oh I got a case now I need a ...and there you go. I should have my little 40mm piston coming this week and the fella called and said I could pickup my carb tools. I ordered me a set of Stihl ones. Only two of my carbs have limiters but I will be ready if I ever need them. I am itching to do something. It's an on going itch know what I mean,?

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I don't have a spare cylinder and I should. I thought all nikasil was hard. Lol I got a spare 440 case and that is just begging me to do something with it. You know how it works. You got a piston, well now I need a cylinder for it, oh I got a case now I need a ...and there you go. I should have my little 40mm piston coming this week and the fella called and said I could pickup my carb tools. I ordered me a set of Stihl ones. Only two of my carbs have limiters but I will be ready if I ever need them. I am itching to do something. It's an on going itch know what I mean,?
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Yep I do know what you mean. Lol. If I ever do get really really bored I may get a big bore cylinder but I'll really would have to be bored.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Yep I do know what you mean. Lol. If I ever do get really really bored I may get a big bore cylinder but I'll really would have to be bored.


ebay 
eBay item number:
152859397953


----------



## golddredgergold

So thinking about trying a smaller sprocket when I put this 660 on the mill. What size spocket is stock now with the kit and will 1 tooth down be good? I would think milling with a 42" bar it would be good. So it looks like stock is 8 tooth so I will order a 7 tooth to try.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> So thinking about trying a smaller sprocket when I put this 660 on the mill. What size spocket is stock now with the kit and will 1 tooth down be good? I would think milling with a 42" bar it would be good.


7t stock

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Hum ok interesting so is there a 6t?


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Hum ok interesting so is there a 6t?


Yes sir, not on Stihl they show 7/8. I am looking at my documents
Go to madsens1.com and read the performance sprocket tuning page
kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

So that looks like a no. Only 7t or 8t available. Interesting well 7t it is then.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> So that looks like a no. Only 7t or 8t available. Interesting well 7t it is then.


I updated my answer

exert: for ms660 and others like it

As for sprocket size, for bar lengths up to 32", a 3/8" x 8 or a .404" x 7 works well. This gearing provides good chain speed, yet still offers plenty of stump power.

When running a 36" bar and .404" pitch, the .404" x 7 remains the best size. When running a 36" bar and 3/8" pitch, a 3/8" x 7 offers more power, while the 3/8" x 8 favors chain speed.

*When running a 42" bar with 3/8" chain, the 3/8" x 7 is the clear choice. *This is really a pretty good combination because a 42" bar pushes the limits on saws in this category. The lower gearing that a 3/8" x 7 offers over a .404" x 7 really helps. 3/8" chain is also more flexible and lighter than .404", and this helps, too.

OREGON DURAPRO chain, or the "X" chain as some call it, works well with saws in this category. It's heavy duty cutter tooth cuts a wider kerf than standard saw chain. This is a benefit for saws in this category because this chain is tough and the wider kerf helps keep the longer bars from binding in the cut.

When running a 42" bar with .404" chain, the .404 x 7 is the best option. Even in soft wood, this pushes or exceeds the limits of the smaller saws in this category. Most pro saw users find this combination suitable for use only an occasional basis.

Bars longer than 42" do not perform well on saws in this category with any sprocket combination.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> I updated my answer
> 
> exert:
> 
> As for sprocket size, for bar lengths up to 32", a 3/8" x 8 or a .404" x 7 works well. This gearing provides good chain speed, yet still offers plenty of stump power.
> 
> When running a 36" bar and .404" pitch, the .404" x 7 remains the best size. When running a 36" bar and 3/8" pitch, a 3/8" x 7 offers more power, while the 3/8" x 8 favors chain speed.
> 
> When running a 42" bar with 3/8" chain, the 3/8" x 7 is the clear choice. This is really a pretty good combination because a 42" bar pushes the limits on saws in this category. The lower gearing that a 3/8" x 7 offers over a .404" x 7 really helps. 3/8" chain is also more flexible and lighter than .404", and this helps, too.
> 
> OREGON DURAPRO chain, or the "X" chain as some call it, works well with saws in this category. It's heavy duty cutter tooth cuts a wider kerf than standard saw chain. This is a benefit for saws in this category because this chain is tough and the wider kerf helps keep the longer bars from binding in the cut.
> 
> When running a 42" bar with .404" chain, the .404 x 7 is the best option. Even in soft wood, this pushes or exceeds the limits of the smaller saws in this category. Most pro saw users find this combination suitable for use only an occasional basis.
> 
> Bars longer than 42" do not perform well on saws in this category with any sprocket combination.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Thanks bud! I will go do some reading now.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Thanks bud! I will go do some reading now.


I cut out what I thought was revelant on the 42" 660 sprocket for the 3/8. I was not giving you a reading assignment. Lol those guys have a pro service shop like we all wish we had access to. I read on a 6t somewhere, it must have been special made.

It's also hard to find info like the 42" is about the longest bar on that size saw. We get all manner of guesses on that. 


kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Well Bedford T i poled my main ms660 apart today and had a few surprises I'll post some pics tomorrow but the saw runs really great so hopefully what I found on the old cylinder doesn't happen to the new one wich I'm thinking it won't why different in plating.


----------



## Imprzed205

I was using my saw Friday bucking logs before their loaded on the truck and mid cut it just slowed down and cut off. I tried to restart but the saw was hard to turn over. 
To say the least I was pissed because I know the tune was right and I run 40:1 mix and just knew the piston was scored. 
Well when I tore it down today I found the big end bearing failed. It looks dry because while the bearing was failing it was getting hot and cooking the oil off. This happened with about 15 gallons on it. 
I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it? I'm to to the point where I wished I bought a used 660. I see good used 660's at the local shop go for around 500 so I may go that route.


----------



## golddredgergold

Very interesting
Wonder why they kill big end rod bearing once and awhile? I am sticking to 32 to 1. I have an old dirtbike with a known warn out big end rod bearing for years now. You can hear it knock. But 32 to 1 she gets ridden so the time and still trucking. Luck of the draw I guess.


----------



## Imprzed205

I'm wondering if the bearings are hardened or not? Or once they get some wear they hammer their self apart. It was tuned to 12,5-12,8. 
I would say 32:1 would have to help. We run 40:1 in all our other saws and didn't want a separate can to keep up with.


----------



## Brian Thacker

I run about 35:1 and so far everything is good. I too used to have an old Suzuki RL250 that knocked badly. Just knew it was going to go any second but ran it for 2 years and sold it. Ran it on 32:1. 

Brian


----------



## MG porting

Imprzed205 said:


> I was using my saw Friday bucking logs before their loaded on the truck and mid cut it just slowed down and cut off. I tried to restart but the saw was hard to turn over.
> To say the least I was pissed because I know the tune was right and I run 40:1 mix and just knew the piston was scored.
> Well when I tore it down today I found the big end bearing failed. It looks dry because while the bearing was failing it was getting hot and cooking the oil off. This happened with about 15 gallons on it.
> I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it? I'm to to the point where I wished I bought a used 660. I see good used 660's at the local shop go for around 500 so I may go that route.


Yep she was definitely hot that sucks mine the cylinder and piston look like a there not matched and the cylinder bore looks like it's not true I'm going to have my friend measure the border and see if it egg shaped


----------



## golddredgergold

Brian Thacker said:


> I run about 35:1 and so far everything is good. I too used to have an old Suzuki RL250 that knocked badly. Just knew it was going to go any second but ran it for 2 years and sold it. Ran it on 32:1.
> 
> Brian


Yes ours is a 1974 Ossa 250 trials vintage trials bike. This old girl gets revved to the moon the clutched dumped to get over obstacles. Idles around in between not moving fast and getting super warm at high altitude. It smokes like crazy at 32 to 1 but she keeps running. So I stick with that mix in my old 895 Mac and any saw I mill with. And after seeing the rod bearing I think this saw will always be on 32-1.
I also worked on my 660 rod itself a bunch before I put it and the crank in. I polished the beams and beveled the edges. I opened the oiler detects a little by basically deburing the edges and cleaning them up to help retain and flow oil. I also worked the piston over by beveling and removing all flashing at the port holes in the skirt and all the castings inside the piston. What I learned is that the smooth surfaces tend to hold a sheet or layer of oil that sticks to the polished metal. Which keeps it all coated nicely in oil. The rough surfaces or edges the oil collects on and makes drops that fall and get pushed out the exhaust before doing its job of oiling.
The race 2 stroke bike engines I build we found it makes a huge difference. We can run the engine with no internal polishing and let it sit and open it up. There will be a few cc's of oil that has run down into the bottom of the crankcase left over. We then polish everything then run on the same jug of fuel for the same time. Pull the top end and there will be 50% more oil still in the crankcase. So if it had 2 cc's first it will have 3 cc's after polished parts. Thats more oil in the crankcase coating parts right? So in theory it should have more oil on the internal parts. Kinda like water sheeting on paint versus well waxed where it beads up. You want it the sheet or cover all the parts.


----------



## Brian Thacker

Agree. Used to build and race myself. Do a lot of vintage motors now days and yes you are right, a polished piece of metal will hold a sheet of oil and it sounds like you done all the right stuff. I have found that most of the Chinese manufactured items lack the refinement that others manufactures have. I did not go as far as you did with the crank but I did smooth the ruff edges around the rod and oil ports. Removed mold marks. The other thing I have found is the inconsistent in quality of the parts. I have noticed that while cleaning rods some you can clean up easily and some are harder metals. Same on like intakes. I went through several intakes all from farmertech. The first ones I got was very thin and did not last long. The last ones I got were thicker and have not had any problems out of. I have a small shop and find myself working on several Chinese ATVs, scooters and such. seams like the screws and bolts are milled to a lot looser tolerance than like Japan and USA made items. They strip espalier and are just sloppy instead of being good and tight. 

Brian


----------



## Brian Thacker

By the way I love the old Ossa's they were good bikes in their day. Used to have a OSSA Pioneer back in the day. A great trail bike. Not many riding trials now days. I wished I had my old Bul 350 Sherco Sammy Miller addition back. Was a fool for saleing it. Should have put it in the garage back in 1980 instead. But should have done that with a lot of bikes I once had. Here is my garage find 1974 Bultaco 250 Alpina.



I swapped the peddles around so the shift was on the left instead of the brake. Back in the day it did not bother me to go back and forth, but now days I get confused.
Brian


----------



## Bedford T

Imprzed205 said:


> I was using my saw Friday bucking logs before their loaded on the truck and mid cut it just slowed down and cut off. I tried to restart but the saw was hard to turn over.
> To say the least I was pissed because I know the tune was right and I run 40:1 mix and just knew the piston was scored.
> Well when I tore it down today I found the big end bearing failed. It looks dry because while the bearing was failing it was getting hot and cooking the oil off. This happened with about 15 gallons on it.
> I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it? I'm to to the point where I wished I bought a used 660. I see good used 660's at the local shop go for around 500 so I may go that route.


That has the cross cylinder doesn't? Sux

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Imprzed205

No, This was on a farmer cylinder.


----------



## MG porting

Hey Bedford T I went and looked at the ebay item that you posted and it looks a lot like a highway cylinder kit hmmmm makes me wonder. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Hey Bedford T I went and looked at the ebay item that you posted and it looks a lot like a highway cylinder kit hmmmm makes me wonder. Lol


Shipping was too high but as you can see that is a lot to look at.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

Imprzed205 said:


> No, This was on a farmer cylinder.


Those excat symptoms occurred with cross cylinders. You can understand why I asked. 3 tanks and out. That's scary.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Shipping was too high but as you can see that is a lot to look at.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Yep they always get you on shipping hat that but sometimes you can get lucky Lol


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Yep they always get you on shipping hat that but sometimes you can get lucky Lol


How many tanks have you got through your last build,?

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Yes ours is a 1974 Ossa 250 trials vintage trials bike. This old girl gets revved to the moon the clutched dumped to get over obstacles. Idles around in between not moving fast and getting super warm at high altitude. It smokes like crazy at 32 to 1 but she keeps running. So I stick with that mix in my old 895 Mac and any saw I mill with. And after seeing the rod bearing I think this saw will always be on 32-1.
> I also worked on my 660 rod itself a bunch before I put it and the crank in. I polished the beams and beveled the edges. I opened the oiler detects a little by basically deburing the edges and cleaning them up to help retain and flow oil. I also worked the piston over by beveling and removing all flashing at the port holes in the skirt and all the castings inside the piston. What I learned is that the smooth surfaces tend to hold a sheet or layer of oil that sticks to the polished metal. Which keeps it all coated nicely in oil. The rough surfaces or edges the oil collects on and makes drops that fall and get pushed out the exhaust before doing its job of oiling.
> The race 2 stroke bike engines I build we found it makes a huge difference. We can run the engine with no internal polishing and let it sit and open it up. There will be a few cc's of oil that has run down into the bottom of the crankcase left over. We then polish everything then run on the same jug of fuel for the same time. Pull the top end and there will be 50% more oil still in the crankcase. So if it had 2 cc's first it will have 3 cc's after polished parts. Thats more oil in the crankcase coating parts right? So in theory it should have more oil on the internal parts. Kinda like water sheeting on paint versus well waxed where it beads up. You want it the sheet or cover all the parts.


How many tanks do you have in your 660 build?

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> How many tanks have you got through your last build,?
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Well my first ms660 I've had ruffly ten tanks through it and the cylinder and piston are ugly although it was still running really good but I thought I would tare it down and put a new cylinder and piston in it and I've got a full tank run through it and the results are looking way better I took the muffler cover off and piston and cylinder look like they should and should be fine now My second ms660 is still lacking a lot of parts before it runs but I'm still thinking about it and I my chang some things on it just because Lol like let's say maybe big bore Lol


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Well my first ms660 I've had ruffly ten tanks through it and the cylinder and piston are ugly although it was still running really good but I thought I would tare it down and put a new cylinder and piston in it and I've got a full tank run through it and the results are looking way better I took the muffler cover off and piston and cylinder look like they should and should be fine now My second ms660 is still lacking a lot of parts before it runs but I'm still thinking about it and I my chang some things on it just because Lol like let's say maybe big bore Lol


Ok I am trying to find out how many of us are subject to this problem. I don't recall I have two or three in mine. I will pull the muffler on mine, can we see the crank bearing from there. I forget some you can some you can't. I would be upset if mine failed. I had that darn cylinder on mine and could tell something was very wrong pulled it off and checked it close put the farmertec back on it and prayed I was ok. Now he says it happened with the farmertec top. Wondering

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Well my crankshaft and rod looked great but these two on the other hand. Lol. Not so great I think the cylinder is not perfectly rounded.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Well my crankshaft and rod looked great but these two on the other hand. Lol. Not so great I think the cylinder is not perfectly rounded.View attachment 645940
> View attachment 645941
> View attachment 645942


To be clear that's the farmertec ms660 kit you are showing us?

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> To be clear that's the farmertec ms660 kit you are showing us?
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Yes this is the farmertec ms660. But the cylinder and piston kit that I just put on it is also farmertec so so far everything is still farmertec ms660 other than intake boot and carb and gas and oil caps and vent.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Yes this is the farmertec ms660. But the cylinder and piston kit that I just put on it is also farmertec so so far everything is still farmertec ms660 other than intake boot and carb and gas and oil caps and vent.


I am trying to understand what you are showing in the pictures. The questions are about the pictures. 

So what you are showing happened to you and you replaced them and the second set is installed and looks fine so far? Is that correct,?

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I am trying to understand what you are showing in the pictures. The questions are about the pictures.
> 
> So what you are showing happened to you and you replaced them and the second set is installed and looks fine so far? Is that correct,?
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Yep and I'm getting ready to run it in a sec I've got a test log I'm going to run it for a bit and look at it again


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Yep and I'm getting ready to run it in a sec I've got a test log I'm going to run it for a bit and look at it again


Well we got a problem Huston, that's a big fat surprise. Here we talk to one another. All of us. And we are not clear enough with one another when a problem rears its head. I do not trust mine now. My tops coming off if Goldy tell me he only has 3. We have a time bomb

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

Bedford T said:


> To be clear that's the farmertec ms660 kit you are showing us?
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


That dark spot on the piston skirt bottom is the area I felt the cross was banging as it entered the chamber. Those cylinders we're likely from the same cast and the the ports were cut different. Dang

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Well we got a problem Huston, that's a big fat surprise. Here we talk to one another. All of us. And we are not clear enough with one another when a problem rears its head. I do not trust mine now. My tops coming off if Goldy tell me he only has 3. We have a time bomb
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Yep a big problem my new one is junk the Nici cracked on the intake side of the bore I'm not happy but I'll be spending some money on the cylinder and piston kit that I was going to get a highway cylinder and a meteor piston......... Can't see spending more money on another farmertec cylinder that two I don't want to try for there in fear that the third one might kill every thing so spend the money in the right place cylinder and piston for me. I will be posting pictures when I get the new cylinder kits. Uuug


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Well we got a problem Huston, that's a big fat surprise. Here we talk to one another. All of us. And we are not clear enough with one another when a problem rears its head. I do not trust mine now. My tops coming off if Goldy tell me he only has 3. We have a time bomb
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Yep a big problem my new one is junk the Nici cracked on the intake side of the bore I'm not happy but I'll be spending some money on the cylinder and piston kit that I was going to get a highway cylinder and a meteor piston......... Can't see spending more money on another farmertec cylinder that two I don't want to try for there in fear that the third one might kill every thing so spend the money in the right place cylinder and piston for me. I will be posting pictures when I get the new cylinder kits. Uuug


----------



## Imprzed205

I'm not sure how many tanks I ran but it was roughly 15 gallons. I have been mixing 5 gallons at a time And 5 gallons had been lasting around 3 days so it's had some serious use lately. 32:1 may have saved it but for how much longer I'm not sure.


----------



## Brian Thacker

Bedford T said:


> How many tanks do you have in your 660 build?
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com



Man I don't know. I ran 5 or 6 threw it today. My guess would be 40 or 50. I have used the fare out of it. I have went threw 4 or 5 chains.

Brian


----------



## Imprzed205

Now that I see your pics my piston was worn in the same spot but way worst likely due to all the extra hours. I'll try and find the piston for a pic I chunked it into the woods


----------



## MG porting

Imprzed205 said:


> Now that I see your pics my piston was worn in the same spot but way worst likely due to all the extra hours. I'll try and find the piston for a pic I chunked it into the woods


My crankshaft and rod look great nice and smooth while rotation so I think it's cylinder and piston that's more of an issue with these kits I'm pretty confident if I get a good cylinder kit from highway and meteor piston this thing will last a long time


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Thacker said:


> Man I don't know. I ran 5 or 6 threw it today. My guess would be 40 or 50. I have used the fare out of it. I have went threw 4 or 5 chains.
> 
> Brian


I knew yours predated mine. My manufacturing run is the one we need to worry about. That's why I now think the same company made the cross as cut those in the kits. The excat same failures. It was to late for me but tomorrow I will look at mine. I am bet I will not like what I see. I will just not run it until I replace it, if it's not pretty and it should be unless mine is in affected group.

I could not pull the thing with the cross cylinder, it clinked when it entered the cylinder and hit in the same spot as MG's

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Uuuuug. Well FYI I did talk to my beautiful lady and she said that I can get what I need to make this saw right she sees my frustration. Lol.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Uuuuug. Well FYI I did talk to my beautiful lady and she said that I can get what I need to make this saw right she sees my frustration. Lol.


Great lady!

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

I am on tank 2. Will keep chugging. Things look good in Mine thus far. Problem here is the rain is coming down again! Can't go outside and mill when its pouring like this!


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> I am on tank 2. Will keep chugging. Things look good in Mine thus far. Problem here is the rain is coming down again! Can't go outside and mill when its pouring like this!


well good, have you pulled the muffler? this is not giving a warning...unless you see it


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Great lady!
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


OK I'll check her out tomorrow. Thanks for the info didn't see this one. Lol


----------



## MG porting

MG porting said:


> OK I'll check her out tomorrow. Thanks for the info didn't see this one. Lol


Man I'm really tired. Lol I didn't get what you meant. Lol. But I do now. I'm slow you guys can slam me for it. Lol


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> well good, have you pulled the muffler? this is not giving a warning...unless you see it



Yes popped it off and took a look. Still looks like new. So very happy thus far. Going to get a solid 5 tanks through it before I try milling with it. I will pull the muffler again at about 5 tanks and get a good look. I will be putting the new milling pipe on at that point to. Will keep you all posted.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Yes popped it off and took a look. Still looks like new. So very happy thus far. Going to get a solid 5 tanks through it before I try milling with it. I will pull the muffler again at about 5 tanks and get a good look. I will be putting the new milling pipe on at that point to. Will keep you all posted.


Thanks checking. I will mine and report in tomorrow. I want to be happy too. I already had trouble so I was skard of more trouble. It's to.evto let me be so I can relax

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Man I'm really tired. Lol I didn't get what you meant. Lol. But I do now. I'm slow you guys can slam me for it. Lol


Lol

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

I do have light scoring about 4-5 mils below the rings, photo of exhaust side. As I rolled it the skirt was bright and shiney. Will need to watch it. Sure runs good. It cranked up on the 4th pull. I was going to mill today and can not get my 070 started. Something is wrong with the decomp.it wants to break my arm. Guess I will just do yard work









kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I do have light scoring about 4-5 mils below the rings, photo of exhaust side. As I rolled it the skirt was bright and shiney. Will need to watch it. Sure runs good. It cranked up on the 4th pull. I was going to mill today and can not get my 070 started. Something is wrong with the decomp.it wants to break my arm. Guess I will just do yard work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Yea keep a close eye on it I'm going to be thumbing through the web today and see what I can find on prices for piston and cylinder wish me luck. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Yea keep a close eye on it I'm going to be thumbing through the web today and see what I can find on prices for piston and cylinder wish me luck. Lol


Yes sir, show me what you get. We might be twins

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Yes sir, show me what you get. We might be twins
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Lol. Will do have to wait till next month which is not to far away now but I'm going to have a good idea of what I'll be getting and the beautiful woman who understands me is giving the OK so I'm definitely not going to be passing that up. Lol


----------



## David.M

So far I only have 5 minutes of run time on my 660. You guys are making me nervous with all this talk about piston/cylinders failing. Mine is 100% farmertec so far, minus bar, chain, and chain tensioner. I'll inspect the piston/cylinder after I get a few tanks on it.

I currently have the farmertec compression release on it. With the release in the "up" position (closed), I can hear air hissing out of it when I pull the starter cord. Is that normal? Or should it be 100% air tight when pulling it over? When the saw was running I didn't notice any air/exhaust coming from it. I have a plug on order for it that should arrive any day. If I decide I need a compression release later, I will put OEM in.


----------



## Brian Thacker

It should not leak. Order an OEM.
I have the 56mm kit on my 660 and have many hours on it without a cylinder failure. I hope I don't jinks myself by saying that. I have not pulled the muffler off in about 5 or 6 hours but up till that point it looked fine. Maybe the 56mm kit is made better. I know it made a difference in power but it seams kind of funky at low RPM. When you let it idle for a few seconds and get back on the throttle it will miss just a little, just enough to be annoying. I have tried to tune it out of it but this is the best it will get. I now have gotten used to it and don't bug me as bad and just except that this is the way it is. Other than that it runs very strong. I have a 28" bar on it and in hard oak with the bar fully buried it just keeps on going. I had it in some 20 to 26" locus the other day and you could not ask it to perform any better. I did start with a good sharp chain but if you know locus you understand it is a chain killer. Very hard wood.

Brian


----------



## MG porting

Just wanted to let everyone know it's always a hit and miss with these saws it's just my luck I'm the one that ended up getting bad cylinders it doesn't mean that you will but it's in one way a good thing that it happened to me and not you guy's at least hopefully it doesn't happen to you guy's anyways. I'm at all means not bragging but I can here things most people can't easily here because I'm legally blind yes I still have my eye sight but I've had this problem all my life not trying to do a sob story here it just the way it is in my world this is how I new there was something not quite right with my second cycle when I was running it but anyways just keep a close eye on yours after running them. And now Bedford T i went ahead and got factory cylinder bolts today just because the farmertec ones have been on and off so many times on mine that it just made sense to replace them and I ordered a factory ristpin barring and clips just because. Lol. And next month I'm going to be ordering up the new piston and cylinder ether highway or meteor which ever one available at the time for the right price. You know what I mean.


----------



## golddredgergold

So looking around on a group of 660 owners and reading a bit about big end rod bearing failures. Some comments have been made that it is failing due to to much compression. That it cannot take the cylinder being milled and compression to high. Now I don't agree with this because of a couple of reasons. One being if I bolt a 56mm top end on I am technically loading the bearing harder just the same right? All things being the same not touching the so called stock squish. Bigger piston more power more load and guys are doing fine with them.
Two. The "stock" squish is all over the place. Some guys reporting .020 right out of the box while others are as high as .037 out of the box. So you could not say what the base line is for a "safe" stock setup. I ended up with a very big squish. .034. I took it down to .026. I am happy. I am not after max power I am after long life. So I am leaning to the conservative side. What do you guys think on this?
I personally think its more of the random flawed parts. Bad hardness, bad bearing pin maybe not a perfectly round pin or pins, out of round rod end. Very similar to the cylinder issues. Overall I don't mind tinkering with it. Cranks are cheap so are cylinders. If I get even 5 gallons before some work though it I will be happy. Used 660 here is $900 minimum. No bar. I have $450 in my entire setup with a 42" bar. Wj-76 carb, oem wrist pin clips and bearing, oem gas cap, brake spring, oem Decomp, ho oiler. Figuire its going to last me awhile.


----------



## David.M

I generally don't use compression releases on saws, even if they have them. So I'm just going to plug it for now. If it's too hard to pull I'll put an OEM one on.

I have some experience with black locust wood. It is hard and tough. Watch out for the needles/spikes in the foliage. Black Locust and Madrona are arguably the two most coveted varieties of wood for firewood in this region.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> So looking around on a group of 660 owners and reading a bit about big end rod bearing failures. Some comments have been made that it is failing due to to much compression. That it cannot take the cylinder being milled and compression to high. Now I don't agree with this because of a couple of reasons. One being if I bolt a 56mm top end on I am technically loading the bearing harder just the same right? All things being the same not touching the so called stock squish. Bigger piston more power more load and guys are doing fine with them.
> Two. The "stock" squish is all over the place. Some guys reporting .020 right out of the box while others are as high as .037 out of the box. So you could not say what the base line is for a "safe" stock setup. I ended up with a very big squish. .034. I took it down to .026. I am happy. I am not after max power I am after long life. So I am leaning to the conservative side. What do you guys think on this?
> I personally think its more of the random flawed parts. Bad hardness, bad bearing pin maybe not a perfectly round pin or pins, out of round rod end. Very similar to the cylinder issues. Overall I don't mind tinkering with it. Cranks are cheap so are cylinders. If I get even 5 gallons before some work though it I will be happy. Used 660 here is $900 minimum. No bar. I have $450 in my entire setup with a 42" bar. Wj-76 carb, oem wrist pin clips and bearing, oem gas cap, brake spring, oem Decomp, ho oiler. Figuire its going to last me awhile.


I think the bearing is not made to endure the extra compression. It's a good bearing. You are right the cranks are cheap but it's a pain to tear it down. So the top was the cause of my problem. And many reports the guys were being all political and had such a mix of parts they were unsure what caused the problem. I believed from day one with the right parts they would be runners and I have seen that be true over and over until the top problem came up. It would be a single production run in my thinking so not pandemic

Edit, the 76-1 is crank bearing insurance

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Marco

The way the come out of the box they are still faster than a Homelite Zip with less wieght.


----------



## Bedford T

Marco said:


> The way the come out of the box they are still faster than a Homelite Zip with less wieght.


There is a lot Right about them. 

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Marco

You want to mill, get an old LA Case and a real sawmill.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> So looking around on a group of 660 owners and reading a bit about big end rod bearing failures. Some comments have been made that it is failing due to to much compression. That it cannot take the cylinder being milled and compression to high. Now I don't agree with this because of a couple of reasons. One being if I bolt a 56mm top end on I am technically loading the bearing harder just the same right? All things being the same not touching the so called stock squish. Bigger piston more power more load and guys are doing fine with them.
> Two. The "stock" squish is all over the place. Some guys reporting .020 right out of the box while others are as high as .037 out of the box. So you could not say what the base line is for a "safe" stock setup. I ended up with a very big squish. .034. I took it down to .026. I am happy. I am not after max power I am after long life. So I am leaning to the conservative side. What do you guys think on this?
> I personally think its more of the random flawed parts. Bad hardness, bad bearing pin maybe not a perfectly round pin or pins, out of round rod end. Very similar to the cylinder issues. Overall I don't mind tinkering with it. Cranks are cheap so are cylinders. If I get even 5 gallons before some work though it I will be happy. Used 660 here is $900 minimum. No bar. I have $450 in my entire setup with a 42" bar. Wj-76 carb, oem wrist pin clips and bearing, oem gas cap, brake spring, oem Decomp, ho oiler. Figuire its going to last me awhile.


I believe farmertec has two different crankshafts for the ms660.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> I believe farmertec has two different crankshafts for the ms660.


They make some of their parts and buy some of their parts. I have seen the parts change over time from the first kits sold. All the parts have changed multiple times. They have even had at least two handle/tanks molds which is the most expensive part for them to produce. Some were improvements and then those improvements sometimes back slid. The different cylinders are mind blowing, that has been constantly changing. I will say this. They have never changed the spike package that shorts you the nuts. They were short in the first kits and are still missing. I could go on.

I have kept up with this and the recent problems are simply because they bought outside cylinders. Nothing would cause bearing faliure faster than the symmetry being off in the cylinder. Oh one more thing, a crappy carb. They can starve those bearing. To start they don't produce enough volume they are very restricted. Then many kit builders excersise there ability to customize and change the saws they produce and they almost always want to increase compression, most use a FarmerTec carb and that carb has the EPA jets and boom...

I have said from the get go that they are good if they are copies and with the changes we adapted and changed to some oem parts. Giving us a saw that will serve us well. The first kits had 76-1 cloned, that went away fast

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> They make some of their parts and buy some of their parts. I have seen the parts change over time from the first kits sold. All the parts have changed multiple times. They have even had at least two handle/tanks molds which is the most expensive part for them to produce. Some were improvements and then those improvements sometimes back slid. The different cylinders are mind blowing, that has been constantly changing. I will say this. They have never changed the spike package that shorts you the nuts. They were short in the first kits and are still missing. I could go on.
> 
> I have kept up with this and the recent problems are simply because they bought outside cylinders. Nothing would cause bearing faliure faster than the symmetry being off in the cylinder. Oh one more thing, a crappy carb. They can starve those bearing. To start they don't produce enough volume they are very restricted. Then many kit builders excersise there ability to customize and change the saws they produce and they almost always want to increase compression, most use a FarmerTec carb and that carb has the EPA jets and boom...
> 
> I have said from the get go that they are good if they are copies and with the changes we adapted and changed to some oem parts. Giving us a saw that will serve us well. The first kits had 76-1 cloned, that went away fast
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Funny you mention carburetors because after going with different muffler on mine that's when I was playing with the jetting on my carb and decided to go with the tillotson carb and glad I did plenty of fuel out of that carb. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Funny you mention carburetors because after going with different muffler on mine that's when I was playing with the jetting on my carb and decided to go with the tillotson carb and glad I did plenty of fuel out of that carb. Lol


What is in the fuel? Oil. The stuff the bearings need. Increase the volume of fuel increase the availability of the oil. So we are on the right track. We just need good reporting. If there is a problem report it here and provide details that will help us put it in context.

The problem for us is when we get hard heads that do not test their saw. So it fails and they ***** and whine and don't cough up the fact it was never tested. I have gotten much better at spotting that. This is just to rewarding to pass it up.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> What is in the fuel? Oil. The stuff the bearings need. Increase the volume of fuel increase the availability of the oil. So we are on the right track. We just need good reporting. If there is a problem report it here and provide details that will help us put it in context.
> 
> The problem for us is when we get hard heads that do not test their saw. So it fails and they ***** and whine and don't cough up the fact it was never tested. I have gotten much better at spotting that. This is just to rewarding to pass it up.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Yep I try to give you and everyone else a heads up on what I'm doing and because why and what happens in the end good or bad because like you said it helps all of us to watch out and look for specific problems that my pop up. And I got to admit even with the setback of the cylinders on mine I still love working on it but it would be nice if could do more cutting with it. Lol. But I'm determined to make this farmertec ms660 a good solid runner so I can say I have to go cut today and not say I have to change the cylinder today. Lol. Yea I know starting to sound like a broken record. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Yep I try to give you and everyone else a heads up on what I'm doing and because why and what happens in the end good or bad because like you said it helps all of us to watch out and look for specific problems that my pop up. And I got to admit even with the setback of the cylinders on mine I still love working on it but it would be nice if could do more cutting with it. Lol. But I'm determined to make this farmertec ms660 a good solid runner so I can say I have to go cut today and not say I have to change the cylinder today. Lol. Yea I know starting to sound like a broken record. Lol[emoji23][emoji38]


You are right. It's simple as building the saw using parts that fit the bill and operating and maintaining it.

I cant count the number of people that have bought kits and insisted on using 100% of the parts that came in the kit just because they came in the kit without considering whether or not there were parts that would make the saw last longer. I used the screws that came in the kit when FarmerTec put 20mm in instead of 25mm. Examples like that make me dizzy. So over time we know what makes the saws copies again. Copies work. But a bad cylinder, we can't plan for that. But when for example it's hard to pull. We have to remember what we are working with and suspect and change from the norm. 

Remember for the majority we learn, we learn much. That is very valuable.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> You are right. It's simple as building the saw using parts that fit the bill and operating and maintaining it.
> 
> I cant count the number of people that have bought kits and insisted on using 100% of the parts that came in the kit just because they came in the kit without considering whether or not there were parts that would make the saw last longer. I used the screws that came in the kit when FarmerTec put 20mm in instead of 25mm. Examples like that make me dizzy. So over time we know what makes the saws copies again. Copies work. But a bad cylinder, we can't plan for that. But when for example it's hard to pull. We have to remember what we are working with and suspect and change from the norm.
> 
> Remember for the majority we learn, we learn much. That is very valuable.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Yes sir you are right even as much as I know about saw's I still learn more about them every day because of the kit saw's you Bedford T make videos for people who are novice to the hobby of building farmertec saw's wich is very cool as far as I'm concerned I injoy watching them and I already new how they came apart and how they go together now that being said I don't by all means know every saw out there but that by choice like you I just wish more of these guys that are building these farmertec saw's would jump up and be truthful and more details on how they put there's together or just plain ask before they do before they do more harm than good to something that can be a great experience and something that they can go out do some work around the farm or out in the woods to get firewood for the winter or for that matter get out of the woods if a tree is blown down in the road. I've had that happen before.


----------



## golddredgergold

Lol I guess its easy to spot someone that has truly built and used the 660 kit. The little things that give that away are easy.

I have a tip.
The stock pull handle that was provided in my kit is great. Apparently the first ones where ripping the bottom out and those are easy to spot they have an orange top. Anyway back to my tip. The knot in the stock rope is a single knot and not tied tight. So 3 pulls in on this new saw and the rope came untied. And of course wound the rope back inside and so I had to go back in and pull the starter cover and get it back in order and tie the handle back on.
So save some headache and tie a better knot at the pull handle when you are building it.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> View attachment 646562
> Lol I guess its easy to spot someone that has truly built and used the 660 kit. The little things that give that away are easy.
> 
> I have a tip.
> The stock pull handle that was provided in my kit is great. Apparently the first ones where ripping the bottom out and those are easy to spot they have an orange top. Anyway back to my tip. The knot in the stock rope is a single knot and not tied tight. So 3 pulls in on this new saw and the rope came untied. And of course wound the rope back inside and so I had to go back in and pull the starter cover and get it back in order and tie the handle back on.
> So save some headache and tie a better knot at the pull handle when you are building it.


Man I still have a crush on your covers!!! One single not will do but you got to get it tight by grabbing the end of it with pliers and after that take a lighter and melt the end of the pull rope and then it should fit nice and snug in the handle that should help you out a bit God can't get over the covers.


----------



## MG porting

I guess I should show off my farmertec off before I tare it down next month. So here she is with a 32" guide bars. My covers aren't as cool as his though I'm so jealous of his covers.


----------



## golddredgergold

I hate usps a little more each day. You got to love this. Its scanned but we don't know where? And a few pics of my 660 enjoying the sun. Getting ready to run a few tanks more through it today.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> I hate usps a little more each day. You got to love this. Its scanned but we don't know where? And a few pics of my 660 enjoying the sun. Getting ready to run a few tanks more through it today. View attachment 646586
> View attachment 646583
> View attachment 646585
> 
> View attachment 646584


You you build them you have a connection to it. When your talented and can make others connect with your saw it really paid off. 

The USPS can screw up. I posted a photo last year of a silver box sitting underneath my mailbox with a Stihl chainsaw in it. And yes the box give it away. The postmaster did not believe me. In this digital world I proved. And said I bet you would have argued with if it had got gone. I said this better never happen again. I bet it does.

So I feel ya lol






kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> I hate usps a little more each day. You got to love this. Its scanned but we don't know where? And a few pics of my 660 enjoying the sun. Getting ready to run a few tanks more through it today. View attachment 646586
> View attachment 646583
> View attachment 646585
> 
> View attachment 646584


Could you kindly tell me how you did your graphics on your covers pleeeeaaaas? 


Bedford T said:


> You you build them you have a connection to it. When your talented and can make others connect with your saw it really paid off.
> 
> The USPS can screw up. I posted a photo last year of a silver box sitting underneath my mailbox with a Stihl chainsaw in it. And yes the box give it away. The postmaster did not believe me. In this digital world I proved. And said I bet you would have argued with if it had got gone. I said this better never happen again. I bet it does.
> 
> So I feel ya lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


That there Bedford T would make me blow my head gasket.


----------



## golddredgergold

MG porting said:


> Could you kindly tell me how you did your graphics on your covers pleeeeaaaas?



Scuff and wash plastic with Dawn dish soap. Use auto motive grade plastic adhesion promoter. Base coat orange. Hydro dip graphics on. Let dry. Clear coat with 2k automotive clear.


----------



## golddredgergold

Fast question for you guys. 
What benefit would a west coast clutch cover give me? Worth the $30.00 or not? I am going to build my own wrap around bar and can see the benefit of that.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Fast question for you guys.
> What benefit would a west coast clutch cover give me? Worth the $30.00 or not? I am going to build my own wrap around bar and can see the benefit of that.


The handle is light weight so you need the wrap or a oem handle. But to your question they were designed to go together. The wrap and the west coast cover with the large dogs made it a better balanced saw and of course cleared the debris better (noodling) giving the clutch a longer life. Less tipping. That's how mine is setup. Looks better too

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Scuff and wash plastic with Dawn dish soap. Use auto motive grade plastic adhesion promoter. Base coat orange. Hydro dip graphics on. Let dry. Clear coat with 2k automotive clear.


I'm definitely going to have to try it thanks for telling how you did it looks amazing.


----------



## golddredgergold

MG porting said:


> I'm definitely going to have to try it thanks for telling how you did it looks amazing.


Lots of YouTube videos on Hydro dipping. Check it out. I also order the 4 pack of covers from Hutzl to dip and list up on ebay. Pm me if you decide its more than you want to take on and I can do a set up for you.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Lots of YouTube videos on Hydro dipping. Check it out. I also order the 4 pack of covers from Hutzl to dip and list up on ebay. Pm me if you decide its more than you want to take on and I can do a set up for you.


OK will do sound good !! I know one thing I still love yours I might have dreams about it tonight. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

Everybody enjoying the sun?

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Everybody enjoying the sun?
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Yep had to go help a friend out with a fence building project that we started three weeks ago. Lol. I was really wanting to go in the garage this morning and stair at my saw's. No such luck though. Lol. But at least I'll have the spare cash to get my new cylinder kit next month witch is coming soon.


----------



## MG porting

How about you Bedford T did you get a chance to play out in the sun today?


----------



## Thumbs

Hello, I am reposting this because it took a while to be approved and may have been missed because it is a few pages back now.

WOW! Thanks to everyone for this amazing thread. I'm looking to do some milling and just can't get around the $1000+ for a big saw, then the mill, chains, etc. Going with a kit saw makes it fit my budget, the great info here and elsewhere gives me confidence to deal with any issues.

But which 660 kit to buy? The eBay guy has them at ~$285 w/ free shipping (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-P...884798?hash=item33e49de3be:g:3DgAAOSwtn9ZzgkB) Huztl has a kit for $186+$86s/h = $272.

Bedford, you recommend the upgraded carb from Mitty, ~$38 plus s/h, for milling, correct? (https://mittysupply.com/product/wj-76-1-walbro-carburetor-new-genuine/)
Lots of recommendations for various oem parts. Should I figure about $150 for those?

The vacuum kit is pricey- can I use my HVAC kit instead? I forgot to look at the fittings, etc., but ass-me that most of the cost is in the gauge.

Thanks again.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T guess what came in today getting closer now. Lol.


----------



## moresnow

Anybody know if you get a break on shipping if ordering multiple kits? As in 3.


----------



## Ozhoo

moresnow said:


> Anybody know if you get a break on shipping if ordering multiple kits? As in 3.



No breaks. You may be able to sweet talk a coupon out of them but that's it. Cost/Unit does go down slightly.


----------



## moresnow

Thanks for the info.


----------



## Bedford T

I was thinking I got no response. Sorry. I should have checked. I upgraded taptalk to the pro version in hopes it would do a better job. I guess I just need to do a better job, sorry guys.

I have been outside a lot. Last day or two trying to clean up these two projects so I can do something else. The 025 guys keep sending me the wrong rings, might have that solved. The ms250 got finished today it was leaking fuel out of screw holes, go figure.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

MG good move on your parts. I am getting better with those 10mm circlip. I think they are softer than your 12mm ones. Those bearings are mighty important

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> MG good move on your parts. I am getting better with those 10mm circlip. I think they are softer than your 12mm ones. Those bearings are mighty important
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Yes they are and they look pretty to. Lol. The circlips I figured that if all else I'll have them when I get my cylinder kit and yes I have made my decision to get a ms660 meteor cylinder and piston kit for it it just makes sense to me to get that one instead of a cheaper kit they are above the other brands still I've looked through a lot of different photos of there workmanship and I just think for the money it will be well worth the price because I went down the road to my local dealer and they wanted $300 just for the cylinder and $80 for the piston ouch I said and they said the same thing. Lol.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Yes they are and they look pretty to. Lol. The circlips I figured that if all else I'll have them when I get my cylinder kit and yes I have made my decision to get a ms660 meteor cylinder and piston kit for it it just makes sense to me to get that one instead of a cheaper kit they are above the other brands still I've looked through a lot of different photos of there workmanship and I just think for the money it will be well worth the price because I went down the road to my local dealer and they wanted $300 just for the cylinder and $80 for the piston ouch I said and they said the same thing. Lol.


I am going with a meteor as well. I bought a ton of Stihl tools recently and the second part of the order comes in next week. So I will buy the cylinder first of July. Because I have a third order I have not placed yet. On that one among other things I am getting the Stihl pressure tester with all the adapters. I got enough saws I can hold off a bit on the cylinder. I want the best tools. You know the seal remover, that's next week. That is one sweet little tool. I read the Stihl manuals and that tool has many more uses than just saws. I will be able to break a 660 down and put it back together without using any make shift tools. I have come a long way.

I found a guy that is selling his granddad's contra. He bought it new in 58 and he died in 97. So it been a while. I am really looking hard at that one. I might pass, but the point is I got the tools to deal with about anything. I just need to learn to paint. 

We could start on the painting by getting some hoods and do like Goldie showed us. Be a first step.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I am going with a meteor as well. I bought a ton of Stihl tools recently and the second part of the order comes in next week. So I will buy the cylinder first of July. Because I have a third order I have not placed yet. On that one among other things I am getting the Stihl pressure tester with all the adapters. I got enough saws I can hold off a bit on the cylinder. I want the best tools. You know the seal remover, that's next week. That is one sweet little tool. I read the Stihl manuals and that tool has many more uses than just saws. I will be able to break a 660 down and put it back together without using any make shift tools. I have come a long way.
> 
> I found a guy that is selling his granddad's contra. He bought it new in 58 and he died in 97. So it been a while. I am really looking hard at that one. I might pass, but the point is I got the tools to deal with about anything. I just need to learn to paint.
> 
> We could start on the painting by getting some hoods and do like Goldie showed us. Be a first step.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Sweet I love tools that make things easier. Lol. What was the price for the seal tool. Funny you mentioned painting I worked in the auto industry cens high school and I ended up restoring car's and really enjoyed it but my eye's jut weren't up to par for painting big stuff anymore. Lol. But let me tell you if you get good at it you'll find your self finding reason's to go paint something Lol. I'm definitely going to try to highdrow dip don't need much peripheral for that.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Sweet I love tools that make things easier. Lol. What was the price for the seal tool. Funny you mentioned painting I worked in the auto industry cens high school and I ended up restoring car's and really enjoyed it but my eye's jut weren't up to par for painting big stuff anymore. Lol. But let me tell you if you get good at it you'll find your self finding reason's to go paint something Lol. I'm definitely going to try to highdrow dip don't need much peripheral for that.[emoji38]


156 plus tax, includes all the jaws. The pressure tester is 186 with all adapters. They are not cheap. But those are excellent prices from my dealer just check eBay and that will prove it. I just want to make my equipment pretty so the painting will be limited to that. I got a airless that will paint your house or barn. That would not be a good fit for a Stihl whatever. Lol

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> 156 plus tax, includes all the jaws. The pressure tester is 186 with all adapters. They are not cheap. But those are excellent prices from my dealer just check eBay and that will prove it. I just want to make my equipment pretty so the painting will be limited to that. I got a airless that will paint your house or barn. That would not be a good fit for a Stihl whatever. Lol
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Yea that's a really good price you'll find yourself building more sows. Lol. So I'm guessing that the pressure tester is better than the ones that are $35


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Yea that's a really good price you'll find yourself building more sows. Lol. So I'm guessing that the pressure tester is better than the ones that are $35


The tester I have works fine. I have arthritis and the pump is hard to pump. I almost need two hands. I also have two work areas so I am buying two of many of the smaller tools. I like tools. I have seen that tester pumped and it is easy. I have 4 flanges I think the kit has like 8. I could put a Craigslist ad up and say change your seals out for 40$ and have some fun too! Lol Lordy being retired you don't want to replace stuff it's too expensive. My backpack I use about 8 times during the winter, average time is 4 hours, so that's 32 a year. I examine it closely and pack it away until the leaves come back to haunt me lol. They all have a purpose and I am real good to them cause I gotta be. Lol

I got a mess of equipment. The tester is used often. I keep my stuff like new. I test everything at least once a year in hopes of finding something wrong before it can cost me money.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> The tester I have works fine. I have arthritis and the pump is hard to pump. I almost need two hands. I also have two work areas so I am buying two of many of the smaller tools. I like tools. I have seen that tester pumped and it is easy. I have 4 flanges I think the kit has like 8. I could put a Craigslist ad up and say change your seals out for 40$ and have some fun too! Lol Lordy being retired you don't want to replace stuff it's too expensive. My backpack I use about 8 times during the winter, average time is 4 hours, so that's 32 a year. I examine it closely and pack it away until the leaves come back to haunt me lol. They all have a purpose and I am real good to them cause I gotta be. Lol
> 
> I got a mess of equipment. The tester is used often. I keep my stuff like new. I test everything at least once a year in hopes of finding something wrong before it can cost me money.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Lol. I'm the same in some ways although I look at my saw's and think hum what can I do to them today before I go get them dirty aspeshily my 064 I just finished cleaning and painting the muffler on it before I did some work on a heater box for my friend truck lol. The important things first. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Lol. I'm the same in some ways although I look at my saw's and think hum what can I do to them today before I go get them dirty aspeshily my 064 I just finished cleaning and painting the muffler on it before I did some work on a heater box for my friend truck lol. The important things first. Lol


It's fun

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Thumbs said:


> Hello, I am reposting this because it took a while to be approved and may have been missed because it is a few pages back now.
> 
> WOW! Thanks to everyone for this amazing thread. I'm looking to do some milling and just can't get around the $1000+ for a big saw, then the mill, chains, etc. Going with a kit saw makes it fit my budget, the great info here and elsewhere gives me confidence to deal with any issues.
> 
> But which 660 kit to buy? The eBay guy has them at ~$285 w/ free shipping (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-P...884798?hash=item33e49de3be:g:3DgAAOSwtn9ZzgkB) Huztl has a kit for $186+$86s/h = $272.
> 
> Bedford, you recommend the upgraded carb from Mitty, ~$38 plus s/h, for milling, correct? (https://mittysupply.com/product/wj-76-1-walbro-carburetor-new-genuine/)
> Lots of recommendations for various oem parts. Should I figure about $150 for those?
> 
> The vacuum kit is pricey- can I use my HVAC kit instead? I forgot to look at the fittings, etc., but ass-me that most of the cost is in the gauge.
> 
> Thanks again.


I would buy one from HLS at least you will get all the parts that way.


----------



## Thumbs

Thanks. For my first build I think having ALL of the parts would help.


----------



## MG porting

Thumbs said:


> Thanks. For my first build I think having ALL of the parts would help.


Yea there's nothing more annoying than having something as small as a clip or a O-ring to keep you from getting it all together but at the same time take your notes down and try to replace the parts that we recommend to replace or you'll kick your self for not doing so. Lol. We've been there done that for you.


----------



## Ck0461

I can speak for the hls kits. All my parts were there. My kit was all cross performance parts, and I am happy with how everything went together. I’ve put about 5 gallons of fuel through it. I had a few tune issues with the saw not wanting to start hot, but got it squared away.


----------



## Bedford T

Ck0461 said:


> I can speak for the hls kits. All my parts were there. My kit was all cross performance parts, and I am happy with how everything went together. I’ve put about 5 gallons of fuel through it. I had a few tune issues with the saw not wanting to start hot, but got it squared away.


FarmerTec actually puts them in the little red bags for the cross brand for HL. FarmerTec customer HL drops ships "direct from the factory", the Farmertec factory that is...at arbortec. It's all in the family but hl can take care of you faster.

Are you saying that you got all the small nuts? FarmerTec never ever got that right

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Ck0461

I got everything,( including the nuts and bolts for the dogs) plus a few extras. Bearings, and seals were installed in the case. Fuel lines were already in. It came with an extra fuel, and impulse line, fuel cap gaskets, and a few other things. I’d have to look in the box to list them all. I bought the kit when it was on sale. If I remember right it was about $230 shipped.


----------



## MG porting

Ck0461 said:


> I got everything,( including the nuts and bolts for the dogs) plus a few extras. Bearings, and seals were installed in the case. Fuel lines were already in. It came with an extra fuel, and impulse line, fuel cap gaskets, and a few other things. I’d have to look in the box to list them all. I bought the kit when it was on sale. If I remember right it was about $230 shipped.


Go with factory Stihl impulse and intake boot and fuel line and go with Stihl fuel cap and oil cap and a factory Stihl compression release. Just saying. Lol.


----------



## Thumbs

Noted. Thanks!


----------



## Bedford T

This is a sweet tool. They shorted me a #7 profile, one of the pair. Can't wait to put it to use. 165$ 1#,#2 installed

wtax















kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> This is a sweet tool. They shorted me a #7 profile, one of the pair. Can't wait to put it to use. 165$ 1#,#2 installed
> 
> wtax
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Very nice that should make things a little easier for you now . If you come to a point where you don't like it any more you can always give it to me. Lol.  just kidding you will definitely love that little tool for a long time.


----------



## Bedford T

I raised a family, worked. Now is my time.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I raised a family, worked. Now is my time.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Lol. As it should be.


----------



## Thumbs

And cussing because the rigged-together tool isn't working is simply not fun after a certain point in life. Good choice!


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Lol. As it should be.



place that order yet for the cylinder


----------



## ammoaddict

Well I have read this entire thread. Took me a couple days off and on when I would have a few minutes. 
I was really interested in building one of these kits. Then I saw all the bads things that have happened and all the bads parts, then I would read some good things. I changed my mind about 5 times. I wanted to try one then I didn't. Long story short, I placed my order today.


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> Well I have read this entire thread. Took me a couple days off and on when I would have a few minutes.
> I was really interested in building one of these kits. Then I saw all the bads things that have happened and all the bads parts, then I would read some good things. I changed my mind about 5 times. I wanted to try one then I didn't. Long story short, I placed my order today.


Lol

It's a journey. I get a different take. It's a bout building a saw and taking what you get and making it better. 

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> place that order yet for the cylinder


Nope Thursday morning. Lol. I'm going crazy now!!!


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> Well I have read this entire thread. Took me a couple days off and on when I would have a few minutes.
> I was really interested in building one of these kits. Then I saw all the bads things that have happened and all the bads parts, then I would read some good things. I changed my mind about 5 times. I wanted to try one then I didn't. Long story short, I placed my order today.


Yea i here you just take notes and don't be afraid to ask questions we are here to help you out any time.


----------



## smokey7

MG porting said:


> Nope Thursday morning. Lol. I'm going crazy now!!!


Did you decide on meteor or hyway. I honestly feel that hyways plating is the best ive seen on any aftermarket cylinder.


----------



## Bedford T

smokey7 said:


> Did you decide on meteor or hyway. I honestly feel that hyways plating is the best ive seen on any aftermarket cylinder.


That's like Ford and Mercedes. Lol I drive Ford's 

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

smokey7 said:


> Did you decide on meteor or hyway. I honestly feel that hyways plating is the best ive seen on any aftermarket cylinder.


I'm more likely going to get the meteor cylinder kit there piston is the best AM cylinder we shall see I'm going to be the ginny pig this go around. Lol.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> That's like Ford and Mercedes. Lol I drive Ford's
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Lol. I drive a old ford truck for my daily and my lady drives the Chevy's.


----------



## MG porting

OK I just ordered the meteor cylinder and piston kit for the ms660 I paid for the three day shipping so should be at my door step sometime Saturday it's only one state down from us so I didn't feel bad paying the price for shipping but man they got me good on the tax ouch. I will be posting some pictures of the cylinder and piston and will be giving you all my opinion and advice as soon as it gets here. Now I'll be watching the UPS trucks drive buy Lol.


----------



## ammoaddict

Is there a free download for a ms660 shop manual and parts diagram anywhere? I have looked but haven't found one yet.
Thanks


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> Is there a free download for a ms660 shop manual and parts diagram anywhere? I have looked but haven't found one yet.
> Thanks


I believe Bedford T can help you with that I'm sure that he will chime in.


----------



## Canyon Angler

ammoaddict said:


> Is there a free download for a ms660 shop manual and parts diagram anywhere? I have looked but haven't found one yet.
> Thanks



I got a bunch of 066 and 660 manuals on the "Beg for Manuals" thread...


----------



## ammoaddict

Canyon Angler said:


> I got a bunch of 066 and 660 manuals on the "Beg for Manuals" thread...


I looked on there but I had no idea how to use that thread to find one.


----------



## Canyon Angler

ammoaddict said:


> I looked on there but I had no idea how to use that thread to find one.



What I did was said, "I could sure use a service manual for a 660 if anyone has one" and someone PMed me the next day with a link to a download folder containing a wealth of information for the 660. 

That seems to be how the thread works.


----------



## ammoaddict

Canyon Angler said:


> What I did was said, "I could sure use a service manual for a 660 if anyone has one" and someone PMed me the next day with a link to a download folder containing a wealth of information for the 660.
> 
> That seems to be how the thread works.


You wouldn't still happen to have that link would you?


----------



## dswensen

ammoaddict said:


> You wouldn't still happen to have that link would you?



I have both. PM me an e-mail address that will accept large PDF attachments, and they are yours.


----------



## MG porting

OK update on the cylinder kit I thought it would be here by Saturday but should like maybe Monday hmmmm paid for three day shipping guys I won't make that mistake twice next time I'll go with normal shipping because it would have been a little cheaper and same amount of time to reserve it. Lol


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> Lol
> 
> It's a journey. I get a different take. It's a bout building a saw and taking what you get and making it better.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Can you believe that the kit came today and I just ordered it Tuesday. 3 days, how is that even possible? The extra stuff I ordered did not come. Most of the bags in the box are not labeled with the numbers on your check sheet. They only say ms660.


----------



## Ozhoo

ammoaddict said:


> Can you believe that the kit came today and I just ordered it Tuesday. 3 days, how is that even possible?



Kits are shipping from New Jersey.


----------



## ammoaddict

Ozhoo said:


> Kits are shipping from New Jersey.


Oh, I didn't even look at the label. I just saw a farmertec box sitting on the porch when I got home from work.
So will the other stuff I ordered come from China?


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> Oh, I didn't even look at the label. I just saw a farmertec box sitting on the porch when I got home from work.
> So will the other stuff I ordered come from China?


Still need the manuals, I missed your post

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> Still need the manuals, I missed your post
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


I got an ipl and shop manual. But since most of the packages are not labeled it's going to be different to discern which part goes where. It's actually kind of overwhelming when you just looked at all those parts.


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> I got an ipl and shop manual. But since most of the packages are not labeled it's going to be different to discern which part goes where. It's actually kind of overwhelming when you just looked at all those parts.


Just take your time and ask questions when you feel like your in a spot where you feel like you are going in the wrong direction it's not bad it's fun we can help you with it.


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> I got an ipl and shop manual. But since most of the packages are not labeled it's going to be different to discern which part goes where. It's actually kind of overwhelming when you just looked at all those parts.


The black bolts hold down your cylinder. You will start out with your case bolts. Measure them and pick them out. Then take your next step, case then cylinder. There will be fewer screws left. Don't fret. Make those first steps.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

Go to my videos and take it one step at a time

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

You use 3 different size screws on your mufflers

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## ammoaddict

Thanks guys, great information. I look forward to doing it. It will take a while. I will have to work on it in my spare time which is very limited. It seems like the older I get the less time I have.


----------



## CsClimbr

Subbed cause I ordered one of these bad boys to practice my cussin’


----------



## MG porting

CsClimbr said:


> Subbed cause I ordered one of these bad boys to practice my cussin’


----------



## dswensen

ammoaddict said:


> I got an ipl and shop manual. But since most of the packages are not labeled it's going to be different to discern which part goes where. It's actually kind of overwhelming when you just looked at all those parts.



I hope you remembered to say "thank you" to those that took their time to send you resources just because you asked them to. It's a simple thing that keeps things moving on this site.


----------



## ammoaddict

dswensen said:


> I hope you remembered to say "thank you" to those that took their time to send you resources just because you asked them to. It's a simple thing that keeps things moving on this site.


I did and I do appreciate any help I get. I sent you my email address but I didn't get anything. One thing I'm confused about, is a PM the same thing as "start a conversation"?


----------



## CsClimbr

Besides a better quality handle (I did not seem to locate on HLSupply website, any ideas?) I was attempting to list what OEM Stihl parts I should/wanted to order for this build while at my Stihl dealer this Weds instead of using the Farmertec (besides a complete OEM 660 that is )

OEM Stihl:
Full gasket set
Bearings
Oil seals
Fuel line
Impulse hose
Intake manifold
H/O Oiler
Brake spring
DeComp
Bosch plug
Fuel/Oil cap O-Rings

Should I add???

Crank (jury still out?)
Flywheel (casting ok?)
Different A/M piston
Caber Rings (OEM)
Air/Fuel filters

Feel free to add your input if I may be missing anything or other suggestions


----------



## dswensen

ammoaddict said:


> I did and I do appreciate any help I get. I sent you my email address but I didn't get anything. One thing I'm confused about, is a PM the same thing as "start a conversation"?



Yes, I got your PM and I sent the IPL to the address you sent. You're welcome.


----------



## CsClimbr

dswensen said:


> Yes, I got your PM and I sent the IPL to the address you sent.



May I request that IPL from you as well? I had a gigantic stash of IPL’s a USB drive somewhere but I gotta go dig for it.

[email protected] if email is preferable


----------



## ammoaddict

dswensen said:


> Yes, I got your PM and I sent the IPL to the address you sent. You're welcome.


For some reason I didn't get it. But I appreciate you taking the time and doing it.


----------



## dswensen

CsClimbr said:


> May I request that IPL from you as well? I had a gigantic stash of IPL’s a USB drive somewhere but I gotta go dig for it.
> 
> [email protected] if email is preferable



Sent.


----------



## CsClimbr

dswensen said:


> Sent.



Much appreciated Sir!


----------



## smokey7

One thing i would recommend to anyone using these ultra cheap topend kits is to use the supplied rings. Alot of times the cheap rings are a better match to the poor quality plating in the jug. You have the best chance of the topend surviving with the cheap rings they come with. I know that goes against our normal thinking but rings must match bore material. Example if you use rings for plated bore on a iron bore bad things will happen real quick. I have seen caber f cast rings just scrape the plating right off these econo kits but the next kit live just fine on the econo ones of the same brand and vendor. So personally use supplied rings unless its going in a known good oem quality bore. I personally feel like hyway rings are a dang good quality ring that is dangerously close to oem quality. I see them as better then econo rings more similar to oem in terms or wear, tension, and easy breakin. I wont use f cast in anything way to hard to breakin and i feel like it could wear the bore faster. Standard caber is dang good not too hard but extra tension is present. The econo rings are generally lower tension just less yhan oem. Wear somewhst quicker. Likely nonevof us would wear out in our lifetime. And somewhat prone to breaking.


----------



## ammoaddict

smokey7 said:


> One thing i would recommend to anyone using these ultra cheap topend kits is to use the supplied rings. Alot of times the cheap rings are a better match to the poor quality plating in the jug. You have the best chance of the topend surviving with the cheap rings they come with. I know that goes against our normal thinking but rings must match bore material. Example if you use rings for plated bore on a iron bore bad things will happen real quick. I have seen caber f cast rings just scrape the plating right off these econo kits but the next kit live just fine on the econo ones of the same brand and vendor. So personally use supplied rings unless its going in a known good oem quality bore. I personally feel like hyway rings are a dang good quality ring that is dangerously close to oem quality. I see them as better then econo rings more similar to oem in terms or wear, tension, and easy breakin. I wont use f cast in anything way to hard to breakin and i feel like it could wear the bore faster. Standard caber is dang good not too hard but extra tension is present. The econo rings are generally lower tension just less yhan oem. Wear somewhst quicker. Likely nonevof us would wear out in our lifetime. And somewhat prone to breaking.


Well actually I was planning on using everything in the kit. Bad idea?


----------



## smokey7

After inspection i dont see why not. I still dont trust their wrist pin bearings. But the big end we have no control over with very few failures. So i say run the pin bearing for say 10 tanks and check it. Really you can test some of its health without disassembly if you had a indicator that fit thru the plug hole to see how many degrees are at tdc and bdc compared to the same numbers at assembly. If that number changed alot it would prompt you to inspect further. It could be the lower rod bearing or a combo of both.


----------



## ammoaddict

smokey7 said:


> After inspection i dont see why not. I still dont trust their wrist pin bearings. But the big end we have no control over with very few failures. So i say run the pin bearing for say 10 tanks and check it. Really you can test some of its health without disassembly if you had a indicator that fit thru the plug hole to see how many degrees are at tdc and bdc compared to the same numbers at assembly. If that number changed alot it would prompt you to inspect further. It could be the lower rod bearing or a combo of both.


I haven't installed the crank yet, but I did test first the piston and pin and bearing and it looks to me like the piston skirts are oming awfully close to the counter weights, it's hard to tell rotating it by hand but they look REALLY close.


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> I haven't installed the crank yet, but I did test first the piston and pin and bearing and it looks to me like the piston skirts are oming awfully close to the counter weights, it's hard to tell rotating it by hand but they look REALLY close.


The skirt has been an issue from time to time.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> The skirt has been an issue from time to time.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Would it be a good idea to maybe file or Dremel a little material off the backside of the skirts where they come closest to the counter weights?


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> Would it be a good idea to maybe file or Dremel a little material off the backside of the skirts where they come closest to the counter weights?


Don't over think it. Just assembly it and pay attention. It is tight inside the cylinder. Their squish is usually higher. Chances are high when you assembly it, it will be fine. But look and you can.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

OK fellas I got my cylinder kit today and I'm pretty happy with it other than the exhaust is flat on top of the port but I will fix that I took some pics for everyone oh another thing the bottom of the exhaust port sits higher so the opening of the port is way smaller I don't take pictures of my port work on this one I was really busy to get the up and running but trust me it runs pretty darn good.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> OK fellas I got my cylinder kit today and I'm pretty happy with it other than the exhaust is flat on top of the port but I will fix that I took some pics for everyone oh another thing the bottom of the exhaust port sits higher so the opening of the port is way smaller I don't take pictures of my port work on this one I was really busy to get the up and running but trust me it runs pretty darn good. View attachment 650941
> View attachment 650942
> View attachment 650943
> View attachment 650944
> View attachment 650945


Looks like you were so happy you rubbed it with sandpaper to welcome it. Likely to see if that finish was really that pretty. Good running is nice and now long running too

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Looks like you were so happy you rubbed it with sandpaper to welcome it. Likely to see if that finish was really that pretty. Good running is nice and now long running too
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Lol. Pitchers didn't do the hone job they did much justice it is really nice. I'll be running it some more tomorrow but the way it runs now with the minimum port work I did I can tell it should be stronger than it was before.


----------



## Marco

So far the big SOB will outcut the 041 for less money than what the 041 cost in 70's dollars.


----------



## dmitriy

Would anyone be so kind as to drop me a PM with a shop manual / IPL for one of these?
I am evaluating options on purchasing a kit and making a work plan for it.

I saw recently the kit dropped in price from $186 to ~$140ish (with $80 in shipping fees) is that about the best discount those guys do on it?
Considering I'll still need a chain/bar. A few OEM pieces it seems as well. Just trying to price it all out.

Also whats the word on the cylinders, I was reading somewhere here that some folks had problems?


----------



## smokey7

The cylinders really are pretty crappy. The plating is very poor the bore is usually not round or concentric. If it was me i would step up to a better topend. Or you can run the supplied one from the kit and see how long it will run for. If you were to buy a decent kit you are looking at about another 100 to 140 just for a decent topend. Or buy a used oem (best) running option. Ive used a few hyway kits and a bunch of little red barn (performance saw supply) p&c kits and those PSS or LRB kits are very very nice.


----------



## davhul

dmitriy said:


> Would anyone be so kind as to drop me a PM with a shop manual / IPL for one of these?
> I am evaluating options on purchasing a kit and making a work plan for it.
> 
> I saw recently the kit dropped in price from $186 to ~$140ish (with $80 in shipping fees) is that about the best discount those guys do on it?
> Considering I'll still need a chain/bar. A few OEM pieces it seems as well. Just trying to price it all out.
> 
> Also whats the word on the cylinders, I was reading somewhere here that some folks had problems?


Sent


----------



## Keaton85

Finally got around to starting my kit, and it’s been as expected so far.

To add to the list of “to-dos” is flushing the crank bearings out!! I had a lot of metal in the bearings from the block assembly. I used electrical connection spray cleaner. Flushing over a clean cloth to find when metal flakes stopped coming out.

I only use electrical connection cleaner since it doesn’t eat the lip seals. Anyway, my two cents!


----------



## CsClimbr

What the hell did I get myself into? “Some assembly required”

Perfect manly puzzle, no instructions cause we don’t read them anyway. 

I plan to run it first, troubleshoot later.


----------



## MG porting

CsClimbr said:


> What the hell did I get myself into? “Some assembly required”
> 
> Perfect manly puzzle, no instructions cause we don’t read them anyway.
> 
> I plan to run it first, troubleshoot later.
> 
> View attachment 651688


Looks like your getting there.


----------



## CsClimbr

MG porting said:


> Looks like your getting there.



I’m getting somewhere, no clue where but somewhere 

I have no expectations with this thing, I’ll be surprised if it even pops lol


----------



## MG porting

CsClimbr said:


> I’m getting somewhere, no clue where but somewhere
> 
> I have no expectations with this thing, I’ll be surprised if it even pops lol


It will run just take your time it's not like your inventing the wheel Lol. Just my being funny.


----------



## CsClimbr

MG porting said:


> It will run just take your time it's not like your inventing the wheel Lol. Just my being funny.



I think I screwed up already. Was I supposed to mount that oil pump first, I remember reading somethin’

That crank ain’t turning real freely.. worries me. Not rubbing on either side but it’s tight even prior to any top end parts. I think a bearing is no good. Was I supposed to go OEM with them? Maybe I’m the problem, usually am


----------



## MG porting

CsClimbr said:


> I think I screwed up already. Was I supposed to mount that oil pump first, I remember reading somethin’
> 
> That crank ain’t turning real freely.. worries me. Not rubbing on either side but it’s tight even prior to any top end parts. I think a bearing is no good. Was I supposed to go OEM with them? Maybe I’m the problem, usually am


Oil pump first and then worm gear then big clutch washer then clutch and clutch drum and baring then spergear then retaining washer and eclip.


----------



## MG porting

CsClimbr said:


> I think I screwed up already. Was I supposed to mount that oil pump first, I remember reading somethin’
> 
> That crank ain’t turning real freely.. worries me. Not rubbing on either side but it’s tight even prior to any top end parts. I think a bearing is no good. Was I supposed to go OEM with them? Maybe I’m the problem, usually am


And did you put oil in the crank case on the bearings.


----------



## CsClimbr

Yup, everything on point. Maybe it just me, seems a little tough to turn but this a lil’ bigger than my 200 I just set aside to open this can of worms


----------



## MG porting

CsClimbr said:


> Yup, everything on point. Maybe it just me, seems a little tough to turn but this a lil’ bigger than my 200 I just set aside to open this can of worms


Lol. You'll be surprised how good you can make it run but that's up to you on that part spend the money where it counts on these things and they will run strong.


----------



## CsClimbr

Well that was fun, I’d like to give it a yank but the ole lady and sleeping baby upstairs might not be as appreciative 

Tomorrow I shall go thru the bag of left overs


----------



## golddredgergold

Thats the part that got me was the leftovers. Felt like I forgot something. But it was all doubles of parts. So no worries. Love my 660 bad ass saw. No issues with mine thus far.


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford you there? You been way to quiet. Hope all is well.


----------



## MG porting

CsClimbr said:


> Well that was fun, I’d like to give it a yank but the ole lady and sleeping baby upstairs might not be as appreciative
> 
> Tomorrow I shall go thru the bag of left overs
> 
> View attachment 651704


I see you have a ms440 there she's going to be jealous. Lol


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Bedford you there? You been way to quiet. Hope all is well.


He posted a video on YouTube this morning so I think he's getting reddy for another project maybe.


----------



## CsClimbr

MG porting said:


> I see you have a ms440 there she's going to be jealous. Lol



She arrived yesterday about an hour prior to the Farmertec. Got her off the tradin’ post


----------



## MG porting

CsClimbr said:


> She arrived yesterday about an hour prior to the Farmertec. Got her off the tradin’ post


Nice I wish I never sold my 044 and my ms440 they both were great runners.


----------



## CsClimbr

MG porting said:


> Nice I wish I never sold my 044 and my ms440 they both were great runners.



I’ve never run one, gotta get a bar on it. It’s an 044 mag but I’m not familiar with any differences between an 044 and 440.. I assume very much alike?


----------



## MG porting

CsClimbr said:


> I’ve never run one, gotta get a bar on it. It’s an 044 mag but I’m not familiar with any differences between an 044 and 440.. I assume very much alike?


That's easy the 044 would be my first choice. Lol


----------



## golddredgergold

Hey do you guys know when huztl ships from china with SF Express do they transfer to the mail or ups for delivery or who actually brings it to my door?


----------



## Bedford T

Call sf and get your tracking number updated once it hits new york.


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> Call sf and get your tracking number updated once it hits new york.


Mine ca


golddredgergold said:


> Hey do you guys know when huztl ships from china with SF Express do they transfer to the mail or ups for delivery or who actually brings it to my door?


Mine came in 3 days. It shipped from NJ by FedEx. I was shocked it came so quickly. I was expecting the slow boat from China.


----------



## CsClimbr

5 days out of Daytona Beach via FedEx for me, Add the 6th day for FedEx to knowingly leave my $1000 HLSupply order at the wrong address down the street but thankfully that neighbor told them to take it back instead of enjoying free gifts


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Hey do you guys know when huztl ships from china with SF Express do they transfer to the mail or ups for delivery or who actually brings it to my door?


It can go ether way at least that's how it is here in Washington.


----------



## golddredgergold

Just got a notice from UPS they are delivering my st express package tomorrow. So it looks like sf uses all sorts of carriers to deliver.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Just got a notice from UPS they are delivering my st express package tomorrow. So it looks like sf uses all sorts of carriers to deliver.


Yep.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

What are my options since no one has stated about which saw or saws to buy? So the only choice is to buy one more of each. I like back ups so having two of every thing makes sense. If you put in a long day in putting the kits together they can be running in the same day. However anything under 60 CC does not seem to have much value. I still have a Stihl 011 that some how always ran when needed and seemed to be handy too. The 011 crank is so worn out that it does somersaults on every stroke. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

Ted Jenkins said:


> What are my options since no one has stated about which saw or saws to buy? So the only choice is to buy one more of each. I like back ups so having two of every thing makes sense. If you put in a long day in putting the kits together they can be running in the same day. However anything under 60 CC does not seem to have much value. I still have a Stihl 011 that some how always ran when needed and seemed to be handy too. The 011 crank is so worn out that it does somersaults on every stroke. Thanks


. No one should say what you should buy. This is the 660 thread. The 440 and the 660 are the two kits I recommend, I own both, both are capable. I know excatly what it takes to make them good copies of the real thing. If you need long bar access the 660 is the choice or on the other side the 440 is the winner.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Ted Jenkins said:


> What are my options since no one has stated about which saw or saws to buy? So the only choice is to buy one more of each. I like back ups so having two of every thing makes sense. If you put in a long day in putting the kits together they can be running in the same day. However anything under 60 CC does not seem to have much value. I still have a Stihl 011 that some how always ran when needed and seemed to be handy too. The 011 crank is so worn out that it does somersaults on every stroke. Thanks


Like Bedford T said we can't tell you what to get but I can tell you what I would personally get and that's the ms440 and ms660 but it's your choice in the end on what you prefer


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Like I said one or two of each ought to cover it, seems to me. Thanks for the advise just the same. Thanks


----------



## ammoaddict

Well, I had a few minutes to get the crank installed and the case halves together.
I have heard on here about relieving the lateral tension on the bearings. Im not quite sure what that means. I work on textile machinery at work and have installed hundreds of bearings. If I put them in a housing I press on the outer race, if I put them on a shaft I press the inner race. Im not quite sure what is meant by lateral tension on these bearings.


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> Well, I had a few minutes to get the crank installed and the case halves together.
> I have heard on here about relieving the lateral tension on the bearings. Im not quite sure what that means. I work on textile machinery at work and have installed hundreds of bearings. If I put them in a housing I press on the outer race, if I put them on a shaft I press the inner race. Im not quite sure what is meant by lateral tension on these bearings.View attachment 652176


Does the crank spin with a little force, is it sorta centered then your good. If it feels like it's binding then take a rubber mallet and pop the spindle on the end and that should release any tension

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## ammoaddict

Wow, This is the first pic I have ever posted. I wasn't sure how to do it. It looks like I should have selected thumbnail instead of full image. Is that what you guys do?
The cranks spins easily. I took a plastic hammer and tapped each end to center it the best I could. .025" gauge goes in easily on one side and snugly on the other.
I will try to get the crank seals, piston and cylinder on tomorrow. Should I post pics showing my progress?
Thanks guys.


----------



## CsClimbr

Ted Jenkins said:


> What are my options since no one has stated about which saw or saws to buy? So the only choice is to buy one more of each. I like back ups so having two of every thing makes sense. If you put in a long day in putting the kits together they can be running in the same day. However anything under 60 CC does not seem to have much value. I still have a Stihl 011 that some how always ran when needed and seemed to be handy too. The 011 crank is so worn out that it does somersaults on every stroke. Thanks



I went to order the 440 & 660 direct from HLSupply and only the 660’s were available at that time (week .5 ago?)

Wish I had gotten both 

That would have been my answer. If I was building a smaller saw, I’d probably just find an OEM rebuild project tho


----------



## Bedford T

@ammo Don't be shy, here is where you show us how "big" yours is. Lol, big of course in context.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## ammoaddict

Can you properly check squish with out the rings installed? I checked it on both sides parallel to the piston pin. It was .040 with NO base gasket and no rings. Should I go with out the gasket or put rings and gasket and check it again.
Thanks for your help guys


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> Can you properly check squish with out the rings installed? I checked it on both sides parallel to the piston pin. It was .040 with NO base gasket and no rings. Should I go with out the gasket or put rings and gasket and check it again.
> Thanks for your help guys


Rings should not effect it. Your measuring above the rings. I caution you about treating that crank like a oem and loading it up. I think failures occur when that's over done. Just consider it.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> Rings should not effect it. Your measuring above the rings. I caution you about treating that crank like a oem and loading it up. I think failures occur when that's over done. Just consider it.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


I am new to this. First time I ever checked squish. I want to do this right that is why I am taking my time and asking questions.
I have heard on here that .020 is a good squish number. Mine is twice that with no gasket. I didn't measure the gasket. I m just wondering if I should use the gasket or delete it
Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

I think some look at it like it's a race to the bottom. Less = more compression on a aftermarket crank makes no sense to me. I have deleted the gasket before on 660 kits and on yours that would make sense. Use some goo on it. 

It's no trouble to ask questions. You may get different answers and that's ok. You can also reask the question. Say I am getting opposing answers. It's ok

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> I am new to this. First time I ever checked squish. I want to do this right that is why I am taking my time and asking questions.
> I have heard on here that .020 is a good squish number. Mine is twice that with no gasket. I didn't measure the gasket. I m just wondering if I should use the gasket or delete it
> Thanks


Before I wood say go without base gasket I would like to see some pictures of the inside of the cylinder.


----------



## ammoaddict

MG porting said:


> Before I wood say go without base gasket I would like to see some pictures of the inside of the cylinder.


Ok, I love try to get that done tomorrow evening. Thanks


----------



## CsClimbr

Bedford T said:


> I think some look at it like it's a race to the bottom. Less = more compression on a aftermarket crank makes no sense to me. I have deleted the gasket before on 660 kits and on yours that would make sense. Use some goo on it.
> 
> It's no trouble to ask questions. You may get different answers and that's ok. You can also reask the question. Say I am getting opposing answers. It's ok
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com



Did your kit come with the metal base gasket also? Which way should it be installed as it’s not flat..


----------



## MG porting

CsClimbr said:


> Did your kit come with the metal base gasket also? Which way should it be installed as it’s not flat..


Dish side down.


----------



## MG porting

MG porting said:


> Dish side down.


Sorry the center of the gasket should look like a dish when you install it.


----------



## Bedford T

My vote is "bowl" shaped. Rim up

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> My vote is "bowl" shaped. Rim up
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


I'm known to eat my soup in a dish.


----------



## Bedford T

I laughed when I wrote that. Because, I remember asking the excat question and used that example to wrap my head around it.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I laughed when I wrote that. Because, I remember asking the excat question and used that example to wrap my head around it.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Lol. That's funny.


----------



## CsClimbr

MG porting said:


> Sorry the center of the gasket should look like a dish when you install it.





Bedford T said:


> My vote is "bowl" shaped. Rim up
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com



Phew.. I guessed correctly 

Thank you sirs!


----------



## Bedford T

CsClimbr said:


> Phew.. I guessed correctly [emoji23]
> 
> Thank you sirs!


 The Gambler.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

CsClimbr said:


> Phew.. I guessed correctly
> 
> Thank you sirs!


That's good.


----------



## ammoaddict

I will try to get a picture after work today. Do you want to see mainly the squish area or port areas?
Thanks for your help.


----------



## ammoaddict

I will try to get a picture after work today. Do you want to see mainly the squish area or port areas?
Thanks for your help.


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> I will try to get a picture after work today. Do you want to see mainly the squish area or port areas?
> Thanks for your help.


Squish area and top of cylinder bore and outer view of the exhaust port.


----------



## ammoaddict

MG porting said:


> Squish area and top of cylinder bore and outer view of the exhaust port.


Inside of cylinder


----------



## ammoaddict

MG porting said:


> Squish area and top of cylinder bore and outer view of the exhaust port.



Exhaust port


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> View attachment 652551
> 
> Inside of cylinder


Your good on for a no base gasket looks like they did a better job on your cylinder.


ammoaddict said:


> View attachment 652552
> Exhaust port


Now on the exhaust if you would like to get rid of some heat and pick up a little power open up the flout of the port but you need to stay away from the inside of the port but it's all up to you but for now try without base gasket and go from there.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Your good on for a no base gasket looks like they did a better job on your cylinder.
> 
> Now on the exhaust if you would like to get rid of some heat and pick up a little power open up the flout of the port but you need to stay away from the inside of the port but it's all up to you but for now try without base gasket and go from there.



Hey man, show me the flout. I never knew what that was. I looked it up and it don't show up

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Hey man, show me the flout. I never knew what that was. I looked it up and it don't show up
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Lol. Spelling problems yes sir. But I'm trying to say is the outer porshen of the port and Yea I know I spelt porshen wrong to.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Lol. Spelling problems yes sir. But I'm trying to say is the outer porshen of the port and Yea I know I spelt porshen wrong to.


Do you use a smart phone? Today you really don't need to spell just watch for the little redline to show under a word and the right click and pick a pretty one

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Do you use a smart phone? Today you really don't need to spell just watch for the little redline to show under a word and the right click and pick a pretty one
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Yep and apparently my phones not smart enough to get what I'm trying to say. Lol


----------



## ammoaddict

MG porting said:


> Your good on for a no base gasket looks like they did a better job on your cylinder.
> 
> Now on the exhaust if you would like to get rid of some heat and pick up a little power open up the flout of the port but you need to stay away from the inside of the port but it's all up to you but for now try without base gasket and go from there.


Thanks. May I ask how you determined that a no base gasket was OK? Just from the width and flatness of the squish area?
On the exhaust, are you saying to open the outside part of the port but don't enlarge the inside part where the piston rings ride? 
would I not have to open the muffler inlet to match?
Sorry for all the newbie questions, but I really appreciate your help and I am excited to learn more about this.


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> Thanks. May I ask how you determined that a no base gasket was OK? Just from the width and flatness of the squish area?
> On the exhaust, are you saying to open the outside part of the port but don't enlarge the inside part where the piston rings ride?
> would I not have to open the muffler inlet to match?
> Sorry for all the newbie questions, but I really appreciate your help and I am excited to learn more about this.


Yes on a lot of AM cylinders the squish band is very unpredictable yours looks OK if in deed you are at . 040 squish without base gasket then you got plenty of room and yes on the exhaust port I normally stay at least a few mm from the inside of the port its just safer that way for a beginner and you don't really need to change the side's of the port but top and bottom you can do to the way the muffler is designed. And if you don't want to do anything to the port then yes opening the muffler up will help a bit.


----------



## ammoaddict

MG porting said:


> Yes on a lot of AM cylinders the squish band is very unpredictable yours looks OK if in deed you are at . 040 squish without base gasket then you got plenty of room and yes on the exhaust port I normally stay at least a few mm from the inside of the port its just safer that way for a beginner and you don't really need to change the side's of the port but top and bottom you can do to the way the muffler is designed. And if you don't want to do anything to the port then yes opening the muffler up will help a bit.


Thanks, since this was my first squish test, I will explain how I did it and please correct me if I am in error. I bolted the cylinder down, no rings, I put the flywheel on temporarily. I stuck the end of the solder in the spark plug hole until it hit the cylinder. I turned the flywheel until I felt it crunch the solder, took it out and measured. .040. I cut the flat part of solder off and repeated on the other side. .040 again.
Do I need to cut pieces off and stick them to piston, then put cylinder on, or is the way I did it OK?
Thanks again.


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> Thanks, since this was my first squish test, I will explain how I did it and please correct me if I am in error. I bolted the cylinder down, no rings, I put the flywheel on temporarily. I stuck the end of the solder in the spark plug hole until it hit the cylinder. I turned the flywheel until I felt it crunch the solder, took it out and measured. .040. I cut the flat part of solder off and repeated on the other side. .040 again.
> Do I need to cut pieces off and stick them to piston, then put cylinder on, or is the way I did it OK?
> Thanks again.


Since you're not to far ahead I would put solder in the front and back and on both sides at the same time you can do that with a little grease.


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> Thanks, since this was my first squish test, I will explain how I did it and please correct me if I am in error. I bolted the cylinder down, no rings, I put the flywheel on temporarily. I stuck the end of the solder in the spark plug hole until it hit the cylinder. I turned the flywheel until I felt it crunch the solder, took it out and measured. .040. I cut the flat part of solder off and repeated on the other side. .040 again.
> Do I need to cut pieces off and stick them to piston, then put cylinder on, or is the way I did it OK?
> Thanks again.


And make sure when you do it to rotate it enough to the piston is going back down after top deed center so that way it's a true squish.


----------



## ammoaddict

MG porting said:


> And make sure when you do it to rotate it enough to the piston is going back down after top deed center so that way it's a true squish.


I did rotate it back down. Do the rings need to be on?


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> I did rotate it back down. Do the rings need to be on?


No they do not.


----------



## ammoaddict

MG porting said:


> Since you're not to far ahead I would put solder in the front and back and on both sides at the same time you can do that with a little grease.


OK, I did what you suggested. The squish measured .035, .038, .037 and .035
Should I delete the base gasket or use it. Thanks for your input.


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> OK, I did what you suggested. The squish measured .035, .038, .037 and .035
> Should I delete the base gasket or use it. Thanks for your input.


Are those numbers with or without the base gasket???


----------



## ammoaddict

MG porting said:


> Are those numbers with or without the base gasket???


They are without the base gasket.


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> They are without the base gasket.


Then you will be good without base gasket.


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> They are without the base gasket.


Use your math skills here. That allows plenty of room to not use the gasket. You need to understand what you are asking and how it's applied. Did you know the included gasket is 0.5mm thick?

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## ammoaddict

MG porting said:


> Then you will be good without base gasket.


Thanks a bunch


----------



## ammoaddict

MG porting said:


> Then you will be good without base gasket.


Thanks a bunch


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> Use your math skills here. That allows plenty of room to not use the gasket. You need to understand what you are asking and how it's applied. Did you know the included gasket is 0.5mm thick?
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


If I understood, I wouldn't need to ask.
And no I haven't measured the gasket, I don't know how thick it is


----------



## ammoaddict

I dont know why this thing is double posting. Its done it 3 times from my phone but never from my computer. sorry about that


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> If I understood, I wouldn't need to ask.
> And no I haven't measured the gasket, I don't know how thick it is


That was obvious. I was trying to encourage you to think it out. That's the best way to learn. The info on the base gasket characteristics are not secret and is an important part of your question.

Your line of questioning was about the availability of space. 

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> That was obvious. I was trying to encourage you to think it out. That's the best way to learn. The info on the base gasket characteristics are not secret and is an important part of your question.
> 
> Your line of questioning was about the availability of space.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Please understand that I had never heard of squish until I started reading arborist site last year. I had never taken a saw apart until then, and it was only a clean up and carb rebuild. This is the first time I have ever measured squish and I don't know what is too much or too little for this kit saw. I don't want to make a costly mistake on this, that is why I am asking questions


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> Please understand that I had never heard of squish until I started reading arborist site last year. I had never taken a saw apart until then, and it was only a clean up and carb rebuild. This is the first time I have ever measured squish and I don't know what is too much or too little for this kit saw. I don't want to make a costly mistake on this, that is why I am asking questions


Minimum squish at least for a safe place on these saws would be .022 I really wouldn't push it much more than that so you're really safe with the nombers s that you gave us.


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> Please understand that I had never heard of squish until I started reading arborist site last year. I had never taken a saw apart until then, and it was only a clean up and carb rebuild. This is the first time I have ever measured squish and I don't know what is too much or too little for this kit saw. I don't want to make a costly mistake on this, that is why I am asking questions


I answer questions, I asked questions. Questions were not a problem. I saw you not stopping to think about the answers or how to arrive at an answer and I spoke up.

You are talking to the guy who has made a great effort to help first timers. So don't think I did not understand your position. 

Learn or not it's up to you.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> I answer questions, I asked questions. Questions were not a problem. I saw you not stopping to think about the answers or how to arrive at an answer and I spoke up.
> 
> You are talking to the guy who has made a great effort to help first timers. So don't think I did not understand your position.
> 
> Learn or not it's up to you.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


What was the squish on the 660 you built? Did you use base gasket? How much compression does it have?


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> What was the squish on the 660 you built? Did you use base gasket? How much compression does it have?


Well I can't tell you what his was at but on mine it's sitting right at . 022 but that's with base gasket and a meteor top end and a minor port job on it witch I do plan on working on the ports a little bit more but I'm going to run it for a while before I do she run pretty strong as it is.


----------



## ammoaddict

MG porting said:


> Well I can't tell you what his was at but on mine it's sitting right at . 022 but that's with base gasket and a meteor top end and a minor port job on it witch I do plan on working on the ports a little bit more but I'm going to run it for a while before I do she run pretty strong as it is.


Awesome. What made you go with a different top end. Just didn't like the looks of the one that came in the kit? I have heard they have put many different brands of P/C in these kits. Mine had no name at all on it, just a couple numbers.


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> Awesome. What made you go with a different top end. Just didn't like the looks of the one that came in the kit? I have heard they have put many different brands of P/C in these kits. Mine had no name at all on it, just a couple numbers.


I put the meteor on mine because I wasn't having much luck with the farmertec cylinder but that's the luck of the draw. Lol


----------



## golddredgergold

Mine was .040 without the gasket. I made a mandrel for the cylinder on my lathe and took a bit off and squared the bottom up. I went without a gasket and used yama seal #4. My final squish is .027. I did not want to push the compression up on the stock crank. I am going for long term running on a mill with mine. So I left it conservative. I say .025 to .030 is a good range.


----------



## ammoaddict

golddredgergold said:


> Mine was .040 without the gasket. I made a mandrel for the cylinder on my lathe and took a bit off and squared the bottom up. I went without a gasket and used yama seal #4. My final squish is .027. I did not want to push the compression up on the stock crank. I am going for long term running on a mill with mine. So I left it conservative. I say .025 to .030 is a good range.


Sounds good. I don't have any tools to take anything off of the base unless it's sandpaper on glass and s whole lot of rubbing back and forth. I think I will just go with what it is. I have some motoseal, that should work fine shouldn't it?


----------



## golddredgergold

ammoaddict said:


> Sounds good. I don't have any tools to take anything off of the base unless it's sandpaper on glass and s whole lot of rubbing back and forth. I think I will just go with what it is. I have some motoseal, that should work fine shouldn't it?


Yes motoseal is just like yama #4.
I would leave it. The 660 is not down on power. Its rips. I can set the chain on the log and pull the throttle and it will take off cutting.


----------



## ammoaddict

golddredgergold said:


> Yes motoseal is just like yama #4.
> I would leave it. The 660 is not down on power. Its rips. I can set the chain on the log and pull the throttle and it will take off cutting.


I'm going to. I'm just working on it a little at a time. Part of me wants to hurry and get it running, but my common sense side is telling me to take my sweet time and enjoy the build, because I know when I get it finished and it runs good, I will be wanting to build another one and I certainly don't need any more chainsaws.


----------



## Keaton85

My squish was .30 with base gasket. Without the base gasket, the piston hit the head. Just my numbers to add to the mix!


----------



## ammoaddict

Keaton85 said:


> My squish was .30 with base gasket. Without the base gasket, the piston hit the head. Just my numbers to add to the mix!


Seems to be lot of variation in these kit cylinders. I wonder if farmertec is making them or buying them from different sources.


----------



## MG porting

Keaton85 said:


> My squish was .30 with base gasket. Without the base gasket, the piston hit the head. Just my numbers to add to the mix!


Every one will get different squish on these saws even oem are p


----------



## MG porting

MG porting said:


> Every one will get different squish on these saws even oem are p


Prone to be difrint from each other.


----------



## ammoaddict

MG porting said:


> Prone to be difrint from each other.


Wow, I would have thought oem would be very close given being made on the same equipment to the same specs.


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> Wow, I would have thought oem would be very close given being made on the same equipment to the same specs.


I've seen Stihl 044s very from. , 023 - . 019 bone stock and the ms660s jump around a quite a bit that why Bob to the right has a 660 and jack on the left side has the same saw bot at the same time same place and one will have more power than the other that's just how it is. Lol


----------



## 2412

Luv ya man! I switched over from Stihl fue$ to VP last week. No starting problems till now. I put the 660 on the bench to look at later. Then I saw . 

Today I checked the saw, and it has no, or very little fast idle. I shimmed the throttle and it started right up. 

I’m not inclined to make an OEM saw one part at a time so I’m not going to order Stihl parts, at least not right away. I’d sooner get a correct part from China, or make the bad part work. 

Can someone measure, and tell me what the pictured distance should be on a good trigger?












I know it’s not a precise measurement, but I’m looking for ballpark.


----------



## Canyon Angler

I only have two Stihl saws (a "genuine" Stihl MS361 and an aftermarket 660), but I've never used the "half throttle" or "half choke" position on either one. I always tried to start on full choke until it popped (or until I had pulled the starter maybe 5 times), then tried starting on the normal "run" position. I've never liked the way the "half throttle" or "half choke" position wanted to make the saw run away against the chain brake (or with a screaming chain if you don't have the brake engaged). Seems like I've also flooded the 361 that way. (Bedford's video made me wonder about the "half-throttle" position on my new AM 660, since I've never actually used that position, so I just tried it. Saw popped on full choke. Then wouldn't start on "half-choke/half-throttle." Was afraid it would flood, so after three or five pulls on the starter, I went back to my routine of going straight to "Normal/Run" and off she went.) YMMV.

BTW, great thread, Bedford. Even though I haven't built a saw and might never try, I enjoy reading about all of your trials and tribulations...


----------



## 2412

I appreciate your comments Canyon. Just as in the video, fast idle on mine has no choke, so it shouldn’t flood. I suspect that after I tune the carb to the VP fue$, that it will start again. At least till I change fuel again, or change altitude, or the weather changes, or ...

I agree about the added stress of fast idle, but if the only other choice is to go home, or take off the air cleaner to shim the carb, I’d rather have a working fast idle setting.


----------



## MG porting

2412 said:


> I appreciate your comments Canyon. Just as in the video, fast idle on mine has no choke, so it shouldn’t flood. I suspect that after I tune the carb to the VP fue$, that it will start again. At least till I change fuel again, or change altitude, or the weather changes, or ...
> 
> I agree about the added stress of fast idle, but if the only other choice is to go home, or take off the air cleaner to shim the carb, I’d rather have a working fast idle setting.


I have got lucky on mine because I get part throttle on half choke but I rarely use half on mine it takes two to three pull full choke and then with no choke at all three pole and she will sit there and idle. I would pole my trigger apart for you but my garage is full of weedeaters right now with no room to spare until next week.


----------



## 2412

I think I will experiment with some kind of tape to determine what I need to add to the length. Then I’ll get the plastic welder out (soldering iron) and see if I can add a bit of plastic to the trigger. 

Unless someone has a spare trigger laying around and has time to measure. 

I may order a replacement from HLPro, or eBay also.


----------



## 2412

It occurred to me that I have the wrong measurement. I think this is the one that matters. 







In any case experimenting by adding tape should provide some answers.


----------



## davhul

I may have a oem to measure I'll see. Most of the time the master control switch needed to be shimmed on each end, Its to loose. 
A thick straw over the ends or I've even cut a strip off a leather glove to add slight outward pressure to the switch. Something else you can try.


----------



## davhul

I don't have a oem trigger to measure


----------



## carrbear

The Wood Doctor had a solution for the lack of a fast idle on a 066, 660. I just tried this in my FT 660 and it works. It had no fast idle off choke. Now it does.

https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...-fast-idle-on-cold-start.192288/#post-5085359

Also a thread in the site we can't mention.

http://************/threads/660-fast-idle-solution-hooray.11450/

Copy and paste in your browser and replace the ************ with o-p-eforum.com without the hyphens.


----------



## Ozhoo

I mocked up an aftermarket tank and swapped parts around with OEM. What I learned was that either way of fixing the high idle issue accomplishes the same thing. Either shimming the control rod closer to the throttle trigger or replacing the throttle trigger with OEM restores high idle. Pics 1-3 are using OEM trigger and aftermarket control rod. 4-6 are aftermarket trigger setup.


----------



## MG porting




----------



## Ck0461

Anybody had an issue with the piston intake skirt wearing and allowing fuel to blow out the carb?

My clone started acting up during my last day of milling. Wanting to die on idle and not start hot. While troubleshooting I realized I could only get it running way rich with fuel blowing out of the intake. Once I leaned it out it’d die. Looking at the piston through the intake, I’ve got a nice shiny place on the bottom 1/4-3/8 of the intake skirt.
I’ll get some pics of my piston once I get it torn apart, to see what y’all think.


----------



## MG porting

Ck0461 said:


> Anybody had an issue with the piston intake skirt wearing and allowing fuel to blow out the carb?
> 
> My clone started acting up during my last day of milling. Wanting to die on idle and not start hot. While troubleshooting I realized I could only get it running way rich with fuel blowing out of the intake. Once I leaned it out it’d die. Looking at the piston through the intake, I’ve got a nice shiny place on the bottom 1/4-3/8 of the intake skirt.
> I’ll get some pics of my piston once I get it torn apart, to see what y’all think.


Lol well you have a similar problem that I had but mine was only on half of the intake side. Blow back is normal on Stihl saw's because of the design that's why they have a baffle setup and some have the spung filter placed in the mane filter. I would like to see pictures of your piston and cylinder it could be possible that you my have a air leak somewhere.


----------



## 2412

Ozhoo said:


> I mocked up an aftermarket tank and swapped parts around with OEM. What I learned was that either way of fixing the high idle issue accomplishes the same thing. Either shimming the control rod closer to the throttle trigger or replacing the throttle trigger with OEM restores high idle. Pics 1-3 are using OEM trigger and aftermarket control rod. 4-6 are aftermarket trigger setup.
> 
> View attachment 653982
> View attachment 653984



I order more triggers from China. 10 of them for $10.00. A quick inspection reveals that they are the same geometry as the one I already had. After reading a bit more of the referenced threads, I have concluded that FT copied the original Stihl trigger, and they have not changed their molds to provide a working fast idle as Stihl did. 

Time to start the return process, provide feedback on eBay, and order a Stihl trigger. I would take it up with HLS Pro, but it’s been to long. Maybe if they read this they can help apply pressure to FT to fix the trigger mold.


----------



## Bedford T

2412 said:


> I order more triggers from China. 10 of the for $10.00. A quick inspection reveals that they are the same geometry as the one I already had. After reading a bit more of the referenced threads, I have concluded that FT copied the original Stihl trigger, and they have not changed their molds to provide a working fast idle as Stihl did.
> 
> Time to start the return process, provide feedback on eBay, and order a Stihl trigger. I would take it up with HLS Pro, but it’s been to long. Maybe if they read this they can help apply pressure to FT to fix the trigger mold.


FarmerTec is not going to do anything. What sort of feedback would you give, it works, they don't give a description that says it's the lastest. I suspect that is why you are not handling directly with HL. Whining in here does nothing other than provide helpful information on the difference in the trigger types. They made their investment now just buy a trigger and be done.

These Chinese dudes do not care what you think, I know that from direct personal involvement.

HL thought this out and they say don't build a saw with it lol

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Ozhoo said:


> I mocked up an aftermarket tank and swapped parts around with OEM. What I learned was that either way of fixing the high idle issue accomplishes the same thing. Either shimming the control rod closer to the throttle trigger or replacing the throttle trigger with OEM restores high idle. Pics 1-3 are using OEM trigger and aftermarket control rod. 4-6 are aftermarket trigger setup.
> 
> View attachment 653982
> View attachment 653984
> View attachment 653985
> View attachment 653986
> View attachment 653987
> View attachment 653988
> View attachment 653989
> View attachment 653990
> View attachment 653991


Which set of trigger photos have the fast included? OEM on left. Thanks

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## blsnelling

CsClimbr said:


> ...crank ain’t turning real freely.. worries me. Not rubbing on either side but it’s tight even prior to any top end parts. I think a bearing is no good. Was I supposed to go OEM with them? Maybe I’m the problem, usually am


Were the seals removed? They should be. Did you relieve the side stress on the crank?



MG porting said:


> Minimum squish at least for a safe place on these saws would be .022 I really wouldn't push it much more than that so you're really safe with the nombers s that you gave us.


I'd shoot for .018"-.020". I've seen an 066 come from the factory with .017".



Keaton85 said:


> My squish was .30 with base gasket. Without the base gasket, the piston hit the head. Just my numbers to add to the mix!


The gasket should only be .017", so shouldn't hit without it. Something is amiss.


----------



## Ck0461

Pics of my piston. Significant wear on the intake skirt. I believe this is causing my issue. What do y’all think? Next step is to figure out if I want to buy another P&C or clean up the port and put a pop up piston in it.


----------



## Bedford T

When you are given clearance numbers be sure the numbers are coming from someplace that works with kits. The quality is not the same on the main bearings so the tighter the squish the higher the compression the higher the load on those am bearings. I say they will fail sooner.

Lately, there has been a lot of discussion on the problems you are having. I checked mine early and found ring blow-by, mg lost his kit and others that don't speak up had similar issues. The best advice is to replace the cylinder kit with a much better cylinder kit. Use oem circlips, use a oem wrist pin, piston bearing and don't make the compression higher than necessary and your saw will give you good service. I know several guys they just will not come on a forum that use these kits in their work and run them in the ground. They all die an early death from skidders or falls so it makes sense. The numbers are good if you just don't trust the carb and the cylinder kits. Those recommendations will solve your problem and and still save you money.

You can have fun and replace the piston and then when the main bearings go replace the crank and by then you will be ready to solve it. Chasing can be fun. We have all known the farmertec cylinders we're not great but something changed and they have gotten consistently worse. I wish everyone would report once in a while with # tanks used and a piston check on a regular basis. I bet it would not be good info. The rest of the saw is close to a copy. That's a key word, anything other is a waste.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## CsClimbr

blsnelling said:


> Were the seals removed? They should be. Did you relieve the side stress on the crank?
> 
> I didn’t remove the seals prior to installing the crank, and it did loosen up after relieving side tension. I just wanted to see if it would go together with them installed and it did but I do plan to tear it back down and use OEM seals when I do


----------



## MG porting

blsnelling said:


> Were the seals removed? They should be. Did you relieve the side stress on the crank?
> 
> 
> I'd shoot for .018"-.020". I've seen an 066 come from the factory with .017".
> 
> 
> The gasket should only be .017", so shouldn't hit without it. Something is amiss.


Yea but lol. These crankshafts aren't as strong as the factory ones and pushing them much more than . 021 is a big gamble.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> When you are given clearance numbers be sure the numbers are coming from someplace that works with kits. The quality is not the same on the main bearings so the tighter the squish the higher the compression the higher the load on those am bearings. I say they will fail sooner.
> 
> Lately, there has been a lot of discussion on the problems you are having. I checked mine early and found ring blow-by, mg lost his kit and others that don't speak up had similar issues. The best advice is to replace the cylinder kit with a much better cylinder kit. Use oem circlips, use a oem wrist pin, piston bearing and don't make the compression higher than necessary and your saw will give you good service. I know several guys they just will not come on a forum that use these kits in their work and run them in the ground. They all die an early death from skidders or falls so it makes sense. The numbers are good if you just don't trust the carb and the cylinder kits. Those recommendations will solve your problem and and still save you money.
> 
> You can have fun and replace the piston and then when the main bearings go replace the crank and by then you will be ready to solve it. Chasing can be fun. We have all known the farmertec cylinders we're not great but something changed and they have gotten consistently worse. I wish everyone would report once in a while with # tanks used and a piston check on a regular basis. I bet it would not be good info. The rest of the saw is close to a copy. That's a key word, anything other is a waste.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Mine still runs. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Mine still runs. Lol


And you upgraded both

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> And you upgraded both
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Lol yep glad I did definitely money well spent.


----------



## MG porting

OK this evening I would like to share some things with you all I noticed that my bar oiler wasn't up to task so I decided to go pull the clutch and take a look at what was going on there was two things that needed to be dealt with and one was the oil hose pickup it was split and yes it was a farmertec so in went the oem Stihl hose next was the worm gear it was a oem Stihl worm gear but doesn't mean nothing because I've had this happen before with other saw's if you hold the worm gear and then grab the metal stem and you can spin it around the worm gear then you not going to get full pup speed when you're running your saw just thought I'd pass this along now mine will easily oil a 36:bar and chain if I ever need to use one that big.


----------



## golddredgergold

Had my boy run my 660 today for me. 42" bar. Logs pine very dry about 36" diameter. My 660 was built very conservative .028 squish. Basically matched gasket ported so its smooth in and out. Stock muffler. Wj-76 carb. I did do the ho oil pump but it does not pump enough. I think the stock pump was better. So I need to pull it and see if its 100% I wanted it very conservative as this 660 will be used on a mill and in big wood. I spent a few hours making a mandrel and lathing the cylinder base true and square. I then spent a lot of time cleaning the ports and making very nice beveled edges. I also worked the piston over a bunch smoothing. I polished the rod beam and beveled the oil holes. She rips. Now we will see how long it runs. I just did a 394 husky full rebuild. But I ported. This saw a bunch. Timing changed a bit on intake and transfers. Opened up everything as big as can be done without welding on extra. We shot a video of each running in the same log. Same 42" long bars on both saws. 394 hot rod is faster than the 660 and that's fine I want it to last a very long time. Enjoy.


----------



## Bedford T

Check on your worm. His chain was loose, did you notice. Always a smarty in the building. Lol

A few hours left on eBay 20% sale

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Had my boy run my 660 today for me. 42" bar. Logs pine very dry about 36" diameter. My 660 was built very conservative .028 squish. Basically matched gasket ported so its smooth in and out. Stock muffler. Wj-76 carb. I did do the ho oil pump but it does not pump enough. I think the stock pump was better. So I need to pull it and see if its 100% I wanted it very conservative as this 660 will be used on a mill and in big wood. I spent a few hours making a mandrel and lathing the cylinder base true and square. I then spent a lot of time cleaning the ports and making very nice beveled edges. I also worked the piston over a bunch smoothing. I polished the rod beam and beveled the oil holes. She rips. Now we will see how long it runs. I just did a 394 husky full rebuild. But I ported. This saw a bunch. Timing changed a bit on intake and transfers. Opened up everything as big as can be done without welding on extra. We shot a video of each running in the same log. Same 42" long bars on both saws. 394 hot rod is faster than the 660 and that's fine I want it to last a very long time. Enjoy.



Lol yep still can't get over your covers!!!


----------



## Bedford T

103.80$ for a metero kit. Man it's over. No more issues. Lol

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> Check on your worm. His chain was loose, did you notice. Always a smarty in the building. Lol
> 
> A few hours left on eBay 20% sale
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Worm gear I am going to check tonight. I suspect that new chain will stop stretching soon I guess.


----------



## Bedford T

I can't make mandrels and work on the ports. Thank goodness I got a buy button

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Worm gear I am going to check tonight. I suspect that new chain will stop stretching soon I guess.


What brand of chain. My FarmerTec s strech and quit

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Worm gear I am going to check tonight. I suspect that new chain will stop stretching soon I guess.


And check the pick up hose if it's a farmertec one there just to soft.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> And check the pick up hose if it's a farmertec one there just to soft.


While mine is apart I will replace that

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> While mine is apart I will replace that
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


You'll be happy that you did. Pump likes oil more than air. Lol


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> What brand of chain. My FarmerTec s strech and quit
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Its Forester brand bar and chain. Everytime it runs it gets a little less. So I think after today another adjustment I will be good. I have a 25ft roll of archer ripping chain to fit on it next. See how much it stretches. I want to get a few more tanks of fuel through it before it goes on the mill though.


----------



## golddredgergold

Sounds like I need to order an OEM oil tube. Dammit. I hate the stihl dealer! Still don't have my 070 felt washer in. Hope they have that oil tube in stock.


----------



## Bedford T

I talked to Stihl corporate and told them about the bad service from different dealers and they said so what. Independent. I said you should care I can buy what I need. You mean they won't sell you a trimmer or blower, no they won't sell me parts. Sorry out of or hands

And we absolutely will not sell directly to you. One of the dealers near me is a racist pig. I hate him. So!

Stihl corporate is the problem

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

A McDonald's franchise or something like that gets involved with dealers, not them

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Its Forester brand bar and chain. Everytime it runs it gets a little less. So I think after today another adjustment I will be good. I have a 25ft roll of archer ripping chain to fit on it next. See how much it stretches. I want to get a few more tanks of fuel through it before it goes on the mill though.


All chains will stretch a bit but I'm not sure on the farmertec chain I run Stihl chains and bar's just because most of the saws I've owned were and are Stihl but building the farmertec ms660 kit still saved me a bit of cash. Lol


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I talked to Stihl corporate and told them about the bad service from different dealers and they said so what. Independent. I said you should care I can buy what I need. You mean they won't sell you a trimmer or blower, no they won't sell me parts. Sorry out of or hands
> 
> And we absolutely will not sell directly to you. One of the dealers near me is a racist pig. I hate him. So!
> 
> Stihl corporate is the problem
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Yea my stihl dealer here will sell me parts but they like that gold for them.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Its Forester brand bar and chain. Everytime it runs it gets a little less. So I think after today another adjustment I will be good. I have a 25ft roll of archer ripping chain to fit on it next. See how much it stretches. I want to get a few more tanks of fuel through it before it goes on the mill though.


Archer has been good for me. Stretches once.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## TheTone

Bedford T said:


> I talked to Stihl corporate and told them about the bad service from different dealers and they said so what. Independent. I said you should care I can buy what I need. You mean they won't sell you a trimmer or blower, no they won't sell me parts. Sorry out of or hands



I'll put in a plug for my Stihl dealer in Jonesboro - Allied Small Engine. I just email them a list of the parts I need and they order them from Stihl, no shipping charge. Sometimes it takes a while. Their prices are reasonable. I think it's just the book rate. Most of the parts I order are little things, so they don't make a lot on my individual orders. But they have a 100% customer return rate with me, so it adds up.


----------



## MG porting

TheTone said:


> I'll put in a plug for my Stihl dealer in Jonesboro - Allied Small Engine. I just email them a list of the parts I need and they order them from Stihl, no shipping charge. Sometimes it takes a while. Their prices are reasonable. I think it's just the book rate. Most of the parts I order are little things, so they don't make a lot on my individual orders. But they have a 100% customer return rate with me, so it adds up.


No returns for me once you buy the part you're stuck with it. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

TheTone said:


> I'll put in a plug for my Stihl dealer in Jonesboro - Allied Small Engine. I just email them a list of the parts I need and they order them from Stihl, no shipping charge. Sometimes it takes a while. Their prices are reasonable. I think it's just the book rate. Most of the parts I order are little things, so they don't make a lot on my individual orders. But they have a 100% customer return rate with me, so it adds up.


That's the way it outta to be

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## dmitriy

So what is the consensus (if there is one) is the parts kit Carb good enough or should I order a WJ-76?

Finally ordered the 660 kit since it was on sale.


----------



## MG porting

dmitriy said:


> So what is the consensus (if there is one) is the parts kit Carb good enough or should I order a WJ-76?
> 
> Finally ordered the 660 kit since it was on sale.


The carb is good enough but if you live under 1000 feet sea level you will need to reajet the carb


----------



## Bedford T

dmitriy said:


> So what is the consensus (if there is one) is the parts kit Carb good enough or should I order a WJ-76?
> 
> Finally ordered the 660 kit since it was on sale.


I disagree. MG is not using the farmertec carb. I am not using the farmertec carb. Why? we understand that the carb brings lubrication into the cylinder. If you want to tinker that's good. But if you want your saw to last get the walbro and use 40:1 / 32:1 as needed. The carb is less than 40$.

It is just too important. Not many of us are still using the cylinders either. Quailty control is an issue with those pieces. Same with piston bearings and other items. If you are just going to build it cut a piece of wood and put it on the shelf just use the stuff in the kit. If you plan on using it, reconsider

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## dmitriy

Thx guys I live sea level so ordered the carb. Once the kit gets here I definitely get the oem parts necessary for longevity!


----------



## Bedford T

An example, One of my YouTube subscribers that lives in Croatia contacted me about how delighted he was with his 440 kit. We had a nice chat over a week. One day he writes these huztl parts are junk just look at this main bearing while holding the piston wrapped inside his hand. (Nothing fishy there). 

What I saw was the potential of one of the circlip ears or a roller out of the piston bearing damaging the main bearing. But he did not want to talk about it.

Folks we are building saws, they start out all leaky, quailty checks are not done. It's up to us to be suspicious and thoughtful in what we do on our own to make it a good copy. If it is not a good copy, a copy of something we know that works well we have junk on our hands. But with small tweaks, we win

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## dmitriy

Bedford T said:


> Not many of us are still using the cylinders either. Quailty control is an issue with those pieces.



I have a bore guage, do you happen to have measurements and clearance spec for oem parts? I can check how far off the AM ones I get are and if they are 'oval' or not.


----------



## golddredgergold

dmitriy said:


> I have a bore guage, do you happen to have measurements and clearance spec for oem parts? I can check how far off the AM ones I get are and if they are 'oval' or not.


I don't sweat the oval or out of round. I am most concerned with the chamfered edges around the ports and the base of the cylinder being square to the bore. Little out of round is ok. But sharp chamfer that hangs a ring is bad. Also make sure you slide the rings into the cylinder one at a time. Use the piston to square it up in the bore and measure the ring end gap. Make sure there is whatever preferred gap or factory recommends. This is a huge deal and overlooked by many. If its to close file them. I fear this is the demise of many of these huztl cylinders. Bad chamfers and the rings grow due to expansion and bad rings gap and they dig in to the cylinders and hang rings on ports.


----------



## Bedford T

dmitriy said:


> I have a bore guage, do you happen to have measurements and clearance spec for oem parts? I can check how far off the AM ones I get are and if they are 'oval' or not.


I don't but I bet we can get that info. I personally have had these cylinder be out whack enough to make them not run. I have knowledge of various other conditions that limit their life. If the cylinder is not round it effects the overall lubrication. Goldie makes a valid point on the ring fitting, but I feel the other aspects are true as well.

How many oem cylinders are not round or not finished properly, I suspect not many. I bet a fellow with a lathe and the talent and resources to make a mandrel might have an opinion like Goldie. For us regular guys we need them ready to run or close enough some sandpaper will do it

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## davhul

I have 2 running huztl cylinders and 1 with a meteor. 
The huztl's arn't round. And when I tore my first one down after only a couple tanks I could tell. The saw was still running fine but I wanted to upgrade the cylinder before I gave it away. The cylinder had a lot of high spots where the rings were starting to wear first. 

If anyone wants to try and make one work and see for how long try some things out. 
On two I built that's still running the huztl cylinders I cleaned the ports, ball honed the cylinder with Transmission fluid really quick, I check my ring end gap and wanted around
.080 if I can using hyway rings. Oem pin and bearing, then Bolt the jug down with dirko for a .023 squish, that was consistent at the time. One saw has to have over 20 gallons through it or more with a 32" bar. I tune 12,5-12,8 with a 32 and 36" and 12,8-13,0 with a 20-25" bar. 
Oh yeah, Their handles are crap for pro work. Even the 3/4 wrap, so they get a used oem. I still have a early 2017 kit still in the box I need to play with lol.


----------



## Leafy

They missed a whole machining op on my 372 big bore cylinder, the cylinder base isn't even machined and the squish area has 20 thou more clearance towards the cylinder wall than the middle of the squish band.


----------



## Bedford T

Smooth as a baby's bottom. I never knew what good was until now. The AM cylinders lack real bad









chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## dmitriy

Nice! How much was that meteor kit?


----------



## Bedford T

I got it on sale 109.00 was 129.00

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Perfect fit. I am having to free up some HD space and it's taking hours. I have a video to share on back to back issues with my FarmerTec 660 cylinders. We need to up our game.





chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Perfect fit. I am having to free up some HD space and it's taking hours. I have a video to share on back to back issues with my FarmerTec 660 cylinders. We need to up our game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


You'll be happy with the meteor cylinder kit by far a very good quality product compared to the farmertec.


----------



## 2412

Bedford T said:


> FarmerTec is not going to do anything. What sort of feedback would you give, it works, they don't give a description that says it's the lastest. I suspect that is why you are not handling directly with HL. Whining in here does nothing other than provide helpful information on the difference in the trigger types. They made their investment now just buy a trigger and be done.
> 
> These Chinese dudes do not care what you think, I know that from direct personal involvement.
> 
> HL thought this out and they say don't build a saw with it lol
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



I got my $10.00 refund this morning. OEM trigger coming next week.


----------



## Bedford T

2412 said:


> I got my $10.00 refund this morning. OEM trigger coming next week.


They gave you 10$ for the trigger?

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Check this out. I had trouble brewing MG said his was doing same thing. So had I left it it would have likely broken off and tore it up. 

I still got the humdinger coming.

I think, I never got a straight answer but this is similar to that cross cylinder faliure. So that might have come from their factory. 3 bad cylinders on kit.










chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Check this out. I had trouble brewing MG said his was doing same thing. So had I left it it would have likely broken off and tore it up.
> 
> I still got the humdinger coming.
> 
> I think, I never got a straight answer but this is similar to that cross cylinder faliure. So that might have come from their factory. 3 bad cylinders on kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I think more people are having the same problem but there not wiling to come out and say it or there just not noticing it yet until it's going to be to late.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> I think more people are having the same problem but there not wiling to come out and say it or there just not noticing it yet until it's going to be to late.


You have to pull the top. I guarantee they don't want to do that they just got it built. 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> You have to pull the top. I guarantee they don't want to do that they just got it built.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Lol.


----------



## Ck0461

Looks like my piston. Was it causing issues running?


----------



## MG porting

Ck0461 said:


> Looks like my piston. Was it causing issues running?


As far as I know his was running fine mine ran fine to the only reason why I caught mine I because I was experimenting with base gaskets. The second farmertec cylinder kit I noticed something was just not right so polled it off and then decided that it was time to just spend the money on a good am cylinder.


----------



## Bedford T

Something like that will cause a failure with the skirt it will just break or something like that and then engine damage. It ran/started fine

I suspected something was wrong after I found there was some damage around the rings from what I perceived was blow by. The skirt must have been causing it.

With these you have to watch them until you get the bugs worked out and then your good until something wears out.

It's the darnest thing with these kits people want so hard to believe they require nothing to run right, you put it together and go cut wood. I bet a lot of people never admit a issue.

After breaking in the new cylinder I expect to only check the piston once and not worry about anything. I need circlips I might buy a manifold while I am there and everything but impulse will be oem like or oem on the engine

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

This is an example. last week a youtube subscriber told me his feelings on the 380 kit and said he was going to rethink buying that kit. this week he wrote he was leaning towards buying it. he phased it as I had a a few small issues with my kit. People get something in their head and their emotions rather than logic leads them dictates what they do. He wanted that kit and he kept looking until he found something that matched what he was looking for. I bet it was not recorded, bet it was just something someone said. I am applying that to this situation with these cylinders. everybody needs to look at the cylinders after it is run a day or so, just because i am having trouble it does not mean you will. but i think it means you most likely will. quality control is a concept they dont get.



Here is more information and some visual on the cylinders


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> This is an example. last week a youtube subscriber told me his feelings on the 380 kit and said he was going to rethink buying that kit. this week he wrote he was leaning towards buying it. he phased it as I had a a few small issues with my kit. People get something in their head and their emotions rather than logic leads them dictates what they do. He wanted that kit and he kept looking until he found something that matched what he was looking for. I bet it was not recorded, bet it was just something someone said. I am applying that to this situation with these cylinders. everybody needs to look at the cylinders after it is run a day or so, just because i am having trouble it does not mean you will. but i think it means you most likely will. quality control is a concept they dont get.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is more information and some visual on the cylinders



That was off a farmertec cylinder?


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> That was off a farmertec cylinder?


Yes

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Yes
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Wow didn't have that problem with mine but I wasn't using the decomp ether go's to show you that they all have their own quirks. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Wow didn't have that problem with mine but I wasn't using the decomp ether go's to show you that they all have their own quirks. Lol


Entirely my point.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## 2412

Bedford T said:


> They gave you 10$ for the trigger?
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



No, that was a refund on the pack of ten more triggers that don’t do high idle. If they have to do enough refunds, and get enough complaints, maybe they will re-work the mold.


----------



## Bedford T

So that's what we have been doing wrong. Well, bless our hearts.


----------



## 2412

Bedford T said:


> So that's what we have been doing wrong. Well, bless our hearts.



?


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bedford T said:


> This is an example. last week a youtube subscriber told me his feelings on the 380 kit and said he was going to rethink buying that kit. this week he wrote he was leaning towards buying it. he phased it as I had a a few small issues with my kit. People get something in their head and their emotions rather than logic leads them dictates what they do. He wanted that kit and he kept looking until he found something that matched what he was looking for. I bet it was not recorded, bet it was just something someone said. I am applying that to this situation with these cylinders. everybody needs to look at the cylinders after it is run a day or so, just because i am having trouble it does not mean you will. but i think it means you most likely will. quality control is a concept they dont get.
> 
> Going in to Farmertech saws and items it is clear that you are not getting high quality construction. I have been using my 070 with great success. Yes I have had to fabricate some parts and modifications. First of all anything that Stihl offers today is junk. The auto tune and carb limiters ruin any chance of trouble free work days. I work with some contractors from time to time that have all most new equipment. The newer 660 work well for a while and then when some thing goes wrong it becomes a major issue that can not be repaired in the field. So for me any thing that can not be repaired easily is not worth any thing. So I have to buy two of every thing to make sure I have a back up. Two brand new Stihl 660 power heads are not bargains. So a couple of Farmertech kits that maybe can give years of service is worth whatever it costs compared to other options. When I go cutting it is a several week adventure. My normal MO is to cut enough wood in about three outings to last an entire year worth of hauling and marketing. So when I cut it has to count and going to get service away from the field has never been an option. Thanks


----------



## MG porting

Well today I got all my fuel hose and tank vent and seal I although I know that the farmertec fuel filters are restricted but another thing I noticed was the tank vent was restricted to the hoses I knew were junk but I ran them because of me putting money in the saw in other places. Lol. Now finding that having two restricted areas in the fuel system that my tun was of after I put in the oem Stihl vent and filter she was running a little fat compared to where I had it with the farmertec stuff and the farmertec stuff has very little time on it so just for those who are building these saw just spend the ex money and get oem rubber and filters its not that much $$to make it a good saw.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Well today I got all my fuel hose and tank vent and seal I although I know that the farmertec fuel filters are restricted but another thing I noticed was the tank vent was restricted to the hoses I knew were junk but I ran them because of me putting money in the saw in other places. Lol. Now finding that having two restricted areas in the fuel system that my tun was of after I put in the oem Stihl vent and filter she was running a little fat compared to where I had it with the farmertec stuff and the farmertec stuff has very little time on it so just for those who are building these saw just spend the ex money and get oem rubber and filters its not that much $$to make it a good saw.



Have I heard that before from somebody. Lol, no kidding aside. It's all Part of the fuel circuit. Anything that effects the fuel effects the lubrication. Plus our rubber is better. There are only about 10-15% of the parts need to be oem to make long runners. That is not a dis.

I just found that circlip that got away from me. I have 1.5 dozen on order of 12/10's so I will not get in a spot again. I moved a tool it there it was. Lol. So I can move on and get her done

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Have I heard that before from somebody. Lol, no kidding aside. It's all Part of the fuel circuit. Anything that effects the fuel effects the lubrication. Plus our rubber is better. There are only about 10-15% of the parts need to be oem to make long runners. That is not a dis.
> 
> I just found that circlip that got away from me. I have 1.5 dozen on order of 12/10's so I will not get in a spot again. I moved a tool it there it was. Lol. So I can move on and get her done
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Lol. Now you know why I haven't but my ome one's on yet I don't feel like fitting them when I tare it down to Finnish up my port work them circlips love to fly.


----------



## golddredgergold

Ok some info and a question. Ordered a new oil tube. Got it in today and popped the 660 apart to put it in. That video I post a few days back I was just not happy with the amount of oil coming out as I said. So we talked I ordered a tube and it was also brought up the spring arm on the worm drive gear may be spinning around the plastic. Well yes it is! So guys check this on your saw! I am pretty sure it had actually stopped turning and was no longer oiling at all. The wire that engages the clutch bell and is around the plastic gear rotates 100% freely. Which means zero oil pumping. 
So question is did you come up with a solve? Take spring wire off pinch the circle tighter so it holds stronger? Order OEM and be done?


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Ok some info and a question. Ordered a new oil tube. Got it in today and popped the 660 apart to put it in. That video I post a few days back I was just not happy with the amount of oil coming out as I said. So we talked I ordered a tube and it was also brought up the spring arm on the worm drive gear may be spinning around the plastic. Well yes it is! So guys check this on your saw! I am pretty sure it had actually stopped turning and was no longer oiling at all. The wire that engages the clutch bell and is around the plastic gear rotates 100% freely. Which means zero oil pumping.
> So question is did you come up with a solve? Take spring wire off pinch the circle tighter so it holds stronger? Order OEM and be done?View attachment 657413
> View attachment 657414


Get a oem and be done


----------



## TheTone

Or...clean thoroughly and work a little J B Weld between the ring and the plastic.


----------



## Bedford T

I can't remember this screw where does it go. The big one. The small ones hold handle on.

I remember now. The wrap handle









chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Canyon Angler

Quick question re: Huztl carb for 660

https://www.huztl.net/Carburetor-Ca...MS650-Chainsaw-OEM-1122-120-0621-p228292.html

Is this carb decent? Buying some other stuff while sale is on and for $11 is it worth it for me to buy one and lard it away for when I get gremlins?

I've heard good things here about the cheap Chinese carbs on ebay...wondering whether these Huztl carbs are also good, or what might be better.

Thanks for any help.


----------



## Bedford T

Canyon Angler said:


> Quick question re: Huztl carb for 660
> 
> https://www.huztl.net/Carburetor-Ca...MS650-Chainsaw-OEM-1122-120-0621-p228292.html
> 
> Is this carb decent? Buying some other stuff while sale is on and for $11 is it worth it for me to buy one and lard it away for when I get gremlins?
> 
> I've heard good things here about the cheap Chinese carbs on ebay...wondering whether these Huztl carbs are also good, or what might be better.
> 
> Thanks for any help.


Do you love your saw or your pocketbook more? That's the question you need to answer. I have become a firm believer that anything that the fuel/oil touches is far too important to mess with.

Huztl sold a brand HLiC that I had great luck until I had my epiphany. I don't think they sell it any more. It was supplied with the first kits.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I can't remember this screw where does it go. The big one. The small ones hold handle on.
> 
> I remember now. The wrap handle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Yep long one's go on the rap handle


----------



## Bedford T

I had a mess of screws on the bench and that showed it's face. My brain went blank. Then it came to me. I hope to get my 660 heat cycled tomorrow. I got the handle on and got tired and quit.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I had a mess of screws on the bench and that showed it's face. My brain went blank. Then it came to me. I hope to get my 660 heat cycled tomorrow. I got the handle on and got tired and quit.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Yea you'll be grinning ear to ear tomorrow. Lol.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Yea you'll be grinning ear to ear tomorrow. Lol.


I love the kits when you make them perfect. I will go ahead and order me a worm. Since I am heat cycling I will only make a few cuts and I won't worry too much about the oiler, if I have to I will rub some Mobil 1 on the chain to get me by. Lol

Sometime this week I will put this beast to work and not fret

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Canyon Angler

Thanks Bedford T. Do you have a particular carb you recommend for the 660, and if so, how much does it sell for?

Or are you saying to just go to my Stihl dealer and buy a carb for the 660 from him?


----------



## Bedford T

No go to http://mittysupply.com and find you the walbro it's about 40$. It's genuine. Give you plenty of fuel to keep her lubed and running

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

No get a Wj-76 from Mitty supply.
https://mittysupply.com/product/wj-76-1-walbro-carburetor-stihl-chainsaw-064-combo/


----------



## Canyon Angler

Thanks, gentlemen. As long as I can get it as rich as I need here at sea level with my mostly gutted muffler, I'll be happy...


----------



## Bedford T

Canyon Angler said:


> Thanks Bedford T. Do you have a particular carb you recommend for the 660, and if so, how much does it sell for?
> 
> Or are you saying to just go to my Stihl dealer and buy a carb for the 660 from him?


MG what was your carb, another choice for you. The carbs Stihl sells strave your poor saw and they have those blame limiters.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> MG what was your carb, another choice for you. The carbs Stihl sells strave your poor saw and they have those blame limiters.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I got the first kit version which after reaming the jet it did pretty good but I went with the Tillotson 320a and never looked back love the tillotson carburetor.


----------



## Bedford T

Let me clear this up...Nothing wrong with the farmertec brand except they are copying the Zama wj67 and the wj69 which are way more restrictive because they are copies of the Stihl carburetors so if the stihl starves saw then we know that the farmertec will also.

Stihl provided the wj-76 until somebody got smoke in their eyes

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Let me clear this up...Nothing wrong with the farmertec brand except they are copying the Zama wj67 and the wj69 which are way more restrictive because they are copies of the Stihl carburetors so if the stihl starves saw then we know that the farmertec will also.
> 
> Stihl provided the wj-76 until somebody got smoke in their eyes
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


The tillotson 320a is a great carburetor big jetting out of the box. ￼￼ lol.


----------



## golddredgergold

I


Canyon Angler said:


> Thanks, gentlemen. As long as I can get it as rich as I need here at sea level with my mostly gutted muffler, I'll be happy...


 Am running the wj76 myself and its been fine. Pulled my plug today and she's running perfect. So very happy thus far. I am at 600ft elevation.


----------



## Bedford T

Canyon Angler said:


> Thanks, gentlemen. As long as I can get it as rich as I need here at sea level with my mostly gutted muffler, I'll be happy...


You will be delighted

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Canyon Angler

Many thanks, again.



MG porting said:


> The tillotson 320a is a great carburetor big jetting out of the box. ￼￼ lol.



Can't tell whether you're being sarcastic or serious here, MG Porting. Is it big jetting or not?

Also, looks like the Walbro and the Tillotson are about the same $. Any preference, or are they about the same?


----------



## Ted Jenkins

I live at 6,000 feet so my opinion might be void. I would also admit that maybe drilling or reaming the valve body might work well, but have not had to to do here. Another problem is that I have several carbs extra for my 075 and 076 so have not experienced the problem that you are talking about. With limiters out and older style adjuster in they all adjust well here. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

Canyon Angler said:


> Many thanks, again.
> 
> 
> 
> Can't tell whether you're being sarcastic or serious here, MG Porting. Is it big jetting or not?
> 
> Also, looks like the Walbro and the Tillotson are about the same $. Any preference, or are they about the same?


I was just giving you another option. I think the tolliston is slightly smaller in jet size, you should be able to look that up. He was not trying to confuse you.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

I am heat cycling the cylinder. I forgot how much trouble it is. Heat and wait till it cools, repeat, repeat, repeat

That beautiful kit saw just teasing ya. You can use me, 

One thing I noticed is it sits in one place. It still bounces but with the last one it would scoot around. 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

We will see but I think this is the combo I have been looking for I know people that use the kits in the work but this strikes me as possibly a real replacement long term. I gotta hold back but it really looks promising

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Canyon Angler said:


> Many thanks, again.
> 
> 
> 
> Can't tell whether you're being sarcastic or serious here, MG Porting. Is it big jetting or not?
> 
> Also, looks like the Walbro and the Tillotson are about the same $. Any preference, or are they about the same?


There about the same and the tillotson is jetted just right for 600ft so you can go ether way I just prefer the tillotson.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> We will see but I think this is the combo I have been looking for I know people that use the kits in the work but this strikes me as possibly a real replacement long term. I gotta hold back but it really looks promising
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Good about time. Lol. I told you that you would be grinning ear to ear.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Good about time. Lol. I told you that you would be grinning ear to ear.


I quit and ran some errands. I had been just letting it idle and on the 3rd time I was going to raise the idle and I found the throttle stuck. Lol, that's when I left.

The wire had gotten caught behind a piece of the handle off the floor. Anyway I got back, freed it, and now going to cycle it 3 more time raising the rpm, time and temperature and I should be done.

Sure sounds good and it does make you smile. This is actually the 4th to topend and the last for some time to come I am sure. It was a cross, famertec, FarmerTec, meteor. 

The finish on the cross was pretty good the meteor was perfect. FarmerTec none were smooth.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I quit and ran some errands. I had been just letting it idle and on the 3rd time I was going to raise the idle and I found the throttle stuck. Lol, that's when I left.
> 
> The wire had gotten caught behind a piece of the handle off the floor. Anyway I got back, freed it, and now going to cycle it 3 more time raising the rpm, time and temperature and I should be done.
> 
> Sure sounds good and it does make you smile. This is actually the 4th to topend and the last for some time to come I am sure. It was a cross, famertec, FarmerTec, meteor.
> 
> The finish on the cross was pretty good the meteor was perfect. FarmerTec none were smooth.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I'm sure you'll find a reason now to go cut some stuff up with it more often now. Lol. Glad you're happy with it.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> I'm sure you'll find a reason now to go cut some stuff up with it more often now. Lol. Glad you're happy with it.


I am not afraid to cut with it now. That's the big difference.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Well I finally got it together. It popped on the sixth pull and was running on the 8th. I adjusted the H and L screws at 1 1/2 turns out before install. Let it idle a couple minutes and shut it down, fired right back up. Compression was at 145 after a few minutes run. It feels like a lot more than that judging by the two blodbl spots on the back of my hand when the decomp would pop out too soon. The throttle response in very good with the initial setting. Idleing at 2500, couldn't resist ripping it wide open one time. It was 13,100 . It is completely kit parts. The fuel cap is leaking, looks like the gasket is contacting both surfaces. I m not sure why it is leaking. I put 50:1 mix in it. It has some black oil blowing out of the muffler. Could be from the 2 cycle oil I used to lube the bearings and cylinder walls when I put it together. Maybe I can get a bar and chain on it in the next few days and stick it in a piece of wood.


----------



## ammoaddict

I haven't put any bar oil in it yet so I don't know if the oiler is working or not.


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> Well I finally got it together. It popped on the sixth pull and was running on the 8th. I adjusted the H and L screws at 1 1/2 turns out before install. Let it idle a couple minutes and shut it down, fired right back up. Compression was at 145 after a few minutes run. It feels like a lot more than that judging by the two blodbl spots on the back of my hand when the decomp would pop out too soon. The throttle response in very good with the initial setting. Idleing at 2500, couldn't resist ripping it wide open one time. It was 13,100 . It is completely kit parts. The fuel cap is leaking, looks like the gasket is contacting both surfaces. I m not sure why it is leaking. I put 50:1 mix in it. It has some black oil blowing out of the muffler. Could be from the 2 cycle oil I used to lube the bearings and cylinder walls when I put it together. Maybe I can get a bar and chain on it in the next few days and stick it in a piece of wood. View attachment 657551


Did it not leak an black oily mess while you were tuning it?

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> I haven't put any bar oil in it yet so I don't know if the oiler is working or not.


If will still pump and leave a blob of oil where it sits. I am breaking mine in and changed the paper bag under it twice, no bar on it.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> Did it not leak an black oily mess while you were tuning it?
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I have not tuned it yet, I just set both screws 1 1/2 turns out when I put the carb in. But yes its leaking out black oily mess all over the pretty white paint.


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> I have not tuned it yet, I just set both screws 1 1/2 turns out when I put the carb in. But yes its leaking out black oily mess all over the pretty white paint.


Lol, it will be fine

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> If will still pump and leave a blob of oil where it sits. I am breaking mine in and changed the paper bag under it twice, no bar on it.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I know, thats why I didn't put any in it yet. I wanted to see if it would run first. I dont mind saying that was a good feeling when it popped and fired up. I was quite happy and a little proud of myself.


----------



## dswensen

ammoaddict said:


> I dont mind saying that was a good feeling when it popped and fired up. I was quite happy and a little proud of myself.



As you should be - that is a great accomplishment - well done. Good learning tool too for how they work - yes?

As to your decomp. valve, I found that the one supplied with my kit would pop out on EVERY pull, not just if the saw tried to start. This coupled with the fact that the plastic button would pop off the stem at random times lead me to replace the supplied decomp with OEM right away - problem solved.


----------



## ammoaddict

dswensen said:


> As you should be - that is a great accomplishment - well done. Good learning tool too for how they work - yes?
> 
> As to your decomp. valve, I found that the one supplied with my kit would pop out on EVERY pull, not just if the saw tried to start. This coupled with the fact that the plastic button would pop off the stem at random times lead me to replace the supplied decomp with OEM right away - problem solved.


Thank you. Yes mine pops out every pull and before a complete pull sometimes, hence the bloody hand. I will have to get one and figure something out about the leaking fuel cap.


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> I know, thats why I didn't put any in it yet. I wanted to see if it would run first. I dont mind saying that was a good feeling when it popped and fired up. I was quite happy and a little proud of myself.


Do you think it might hurt the pump to run it dry? 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> Do you think it might hurt the pump to run it dry?
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy[/Q





Bedford T said:


> Do you think it might hurt the pump to run it dry?
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I hope not. I greased it when I put it together. I will put some oil in it before I crank it again


----------



## golddredgergold

ammoaddict said:


> Well I finally got it together. It popped on the sixth pull and was running on the 8th. I adjusted the H and L screws at 1 1/2 turns out before install. Let it idle a couple minutes and shut it down, fired right back up. Compression was at 145 after a few minutes run. It feels like a lot more than that judging by the two blodbl spots on the back of my hand when the decomp would pop out too soon. The throttle response in very good with the initial setting. Idleing at 2500, couldn't resist ripping it wide open one time. It was 13,100 . It is completely kit parts. The fuel cap is leaking, looks like the gasket is contacting both surfaces. I m not sure why it is leaking. I put 50:1 mix in it. It has some black oil blowing out of the muffler. Could be from the 2 cycle oil I used to lube the bearings and cylinder walls when I put it together. Maybe I can get a bar and chain on it in the next few days and stick it in a piece of wood. View attachment 657551


Do NOT run 50to1! Its not enough oil! 32 to 1 in these saws. Do as you wish but if you want it to last 32to1 bud.


----------



## Bedford T

A large gas seller near me has pumps that sell gas that is 85% corn. Wonder how many saw are subjected to that and we never hear. I found the pump setup quite confusing. There were 5 hoses or I would have driven away. Even the E15 can be quite damaging. After seeing that I am sticking with av100 for sure

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

golddredgergold said:


> Do NOT run 50to1! Its not enough oil! 32 to 1 in these saws. Do as you wish but if you want it to last 32to1 bud.


That's all I had, everything else I have uses it. I figured since I had lubed everything up with 2 cycle oil upon assembly it should be enough oil to see if it would run


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> A large gas seller near me has pumps that sell gas that is 85% corn. Wonder how many saw are subjected to that and we never hear. I found the pump setup quite confusing. There were 5 hoses or I would have driven away. Even the E15 can be quite damaging. After seeing that I am sticking with av100 for sure
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


In my area I can get 91 no ethonal, but I have to drive a few miles to get it. It's all I run in my outdoor power equipment


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> That's all I had, everything else I have uses it. I figured since I had lubed everything up with 2 cycle oil upon assembly it should be enough oil to see if it would run


No body is blaming you. Just a warning. You build one, it's impowering and we all want to see it work. The worst thing you can do is open it up, the main bearings instantly overheat. I oil mine, but still. 

The urge to hear it roar is large. It's a kit and you gotta be gentle until you get the bugs worked out.

Even though that's very hard not to do. We are weak human men that loves loud things lol.

What parts of the saw were leaking when you tested it

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> In my area I can get 91 no ethonal, but I have to drive a few miles to get it. It's all I run in my outdoor power equipment


Drive Everytime. It will last much longer that the other.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Yes being is was lubed you will be fine for a test start. But I do not run any 2 stroke on 50 to 1. Manufactures have to say this now and do it to pass EPA regs. No 2 stroke should be on 50 to 1 ever. 
As example a good buddy and I bought the same exact Husqvarna weedeater. Was a super sale could not pass it up. That was 4 years ago. Husky says 50-1. I told him to run 32-1 if he wants it to last. He told me I was a jackass. Litterly to my face. Says that that's what husky says so that's what you do. Well long story short he just dropped his POS off at the dealer for the second time its needed a top end put on it. Cylinder all scored up. Guess what? I have never touched mine! Still stock with the same cylinder and piston on 32-1. I run the crap out of this thing every year clearing 2 acres. His trims around his house and building. I bet mine has 200 times the use his does. I popped the muffler a few days back. Put a carb kit in it. Looked thing over. She looks awesome. Good to go for several more seasons.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Yes being is was lubed you will be fine for a test start. But I do not run any 2 stroke on 50 to 1. Manufactures have to say this now and do it to pass EPA regs. No 2 stroke should be on 50 to 1 ever.
> As example a good buddy and I bought the same exact Husqvarna weedeater. Was a super sale could not pass it up. That was 4 years ago. Husky says 50-1. I told him to run 32-1 if he wants it to last. He told me I was a jackass. Litterly to my face. Says that that's what husky says so that's what you do. Well long story short he just dropped his POS off at the dealer for the second time its needed a top end put on it. Cylinder all scored up. Guess what? I have never touched mine! Still stock with the same cylinder and piston on 32-1. I run the crap out of this thing every year clearing 2 acres. His trims around his house and building. I bet mine has 200 times the use his does. I popped the muffler a few days back. Put a carb kit in it. Looked thing over. She looks awesome. Good to go for several more seasons.


Their oil is not synthetic it's a mix

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

4oz per gallon for 32:1. People look at that little 2.7 expensive bottle and go hell no...until they *****. I started buying it by the quart. I run mine 40:1 for regular and 32:1 for heavy use. Back packs are heavy to me, I run mine wide open.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> 4oz per gallon for 32:1. People look at that little 2.7 expensive bottle and go hell no...until they *****. I started buying it by the quart. I run mine 40:1 for regular and 32:1 for heavy use. Back packs are heavy to me, I run mine wide open.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


What brand of oil are you using?


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> No body is blaming you. Just a warning. You build one, it's impowering and we all want to see it work. The worst thing you can do is open it up, the main bearings instantly overheat. I oil mine, but still.
> 
> The urge to hear it roar is large. It's a kit and you gotta be gentle until you get the bugs worked out.
> 
> Even though that's very hard not to do. We are weak human men that loves loud things lol.
> 
> What parts of the saw were leaking when you tested it
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


The decomp valve leaked bad. I had a very slow leak somewhere. I sprayed the seals and saw no bubbles. I finally decided the slow leak was the cobbled up way I had the intake blocked.


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> The decomp valve leaked bad. I had a very slow leak somewhere. I sprayed the seals and saw no bubbles. I finally decided the slow leak was the cobbled up way I had the intake blocked.


Watch this. It's the only way to correctly protect your saw. My website has the tools and part numbers you need. Except the bolt and I will add it now if it's missing

I use H1-R by Belray. It mixes well and coats the nikasil best. That statement will get me shot. People take their oil seriously. I could talk ill of their daughter before dissing their oil. None of my kits ever had a lubrication issue.




chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Lol same here. I use same oil in our dirt bikes, jet skis and chainsaws. Have great luck for years. But yep chainsaw guys freak out over oils. Use this use that. You can't use this.... Well no problem. Use what treats you well and so will I.


----------



## golddredgergold

ammoaddict said:


> The decomp valve leaked bad. I had a very slow leak somewhere. I sprayed the seals and saw no bubbles. I finally decided the slow leak was the cobbled up way I had the intake blocked.


The Huztl Decomp is a leaking POS. Get either a Stihl or Husqvarna OEM Decomp. They still leak a bit but nothing like the Huztl valve.


----------



## Canyon Angler

Or just block it off, like in my 660.

Once you learn all the "tricks" to starting it, it's nowhere near as traumatic...

For example: choke ON, pull starter real slow through two or three cycles of the piston. Then rewind starter, then pull until you can feel the piston compressing...if needed, allow starter to rewind a click or two...then simultaneously drop saw and pull starter HARD thru one cycle. If it doesn't start, turn choke off and put control switch to RUN. Do the rewind-starter-pull-until-you-feel-compression-regain-a-click-or-two-on-starter-DROP/PULL routine again. Mine starts easy now, and hurts my hand much less.


----------



## ammoaddict

golddredgergold said:


> The Huztl Decomp is a leaking POS. Get either a Stihl or Husqvarna OEM Decomp. They still leak a bit but nothing like the Huztl valve.


I wonder if the hyway ones are any good. I am going to order a few things from HL supply and they have them for 7.99


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> I wonder if the hyway ones are any good. I am going to order a few things from HL supply and they have them for 7.99


Don't, I will post a link if you must buy an AM. Give me a little bit

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> Don't, I will post a link if you must buy an AM. Give me a little bit
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I don't have to have AM. HL also has OEM Husqvarna ones for 13.49. Since the 660 started and ran so we'll, I can reward it by giving it a Husqvarna part.


----------



## MG porting

Well Bedford T im sure you're running that saw of yours today how's it doing?


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Well Bedford T im sure you're running that saw of yours today how's it doing?


I should have, I got sidetracked, I have come inside to cool down and rest a bit. Days not over, its calling to me lol

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> I don't have to have AM. HL also has OEM Husqvarna ones for 13.49. Since the 660 started and ran so we'll, I can reward it by giving it a Husqvarna part.


I can't tell if you kidding or know something I don't. Be interesting to see how that works out.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Well Bedford T im sure you're running that saw of yours today how's it doing?


I would really like to find some small wood. I have some big logs i have been saving for slabs. To break it in I would like some 8_10in wood. Quick in out for three tanks

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

ammoaddict said:


> I wonder if the hyway ones are any good. I am going to order a few things from HL supply and they have them for 7.99


I don't know. I just went with the oem husky. They say that's the best one so its what I got.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> I don't know. I just went with the oem husky. They say that's the best one so its what I got.


The husky fits the Stihl? They don't mention that in the ad. Diameter looks same. Length is what I wonder about. Here is an AM that the guy says is different. I have no idea

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DECOMPRESS...0-044-MS440-046-MS460-066-MS660-/231823667627

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Guys, I need your help. Huztl wanted to download some of my videos and use on their website. I told the a hard NO. Please help me keep an eye out.

They must not understand the value of something. I offered to make some for them that they would own. They are used to copying things. I made those to help people not help them. Please help me by not letting them get by with anything.

That bugs me. Plenty of guys making videos why take mine?

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> Guys, I need your help. Huztl wanted to download some of my videos and use on their website. I told the a hard NO. Please help me keep an eye out.
> 
> They must not understand the value of something. I offered to make some for them that they would own. They are used to copying things. I made those to help people not help them. Please help me by not letting them get by with anything.
> 
> That bugs me. Plenty of guys making videos why take mine?
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I don't know but at least they asked permission.


----------



## ammoaddict

I finally got around to putting the bar and chain on it. The adjuster works if the bar nuts are REALLY loose.
It oils but not very much, it's turned to Max. It came up a storm so I didn't get to mess with it anymore


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> I finally got around to putting the bar and chain on it. The adjuster works if the bar nuts are REALLY loose.
> It oils but not very much, it's turned to Max. It came up a storm so I didn't get to mess with it anymoreView attachment 657736


On videos, let them steal yours. Them asking is meaningless. The fact they did not know any better worries me. No one in thier right mind would say yes take my work. 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> On videos, let them steal yours. Them asking is meaningless. The fact they did not know any better worries me. No one in thier right mind would say yes take my work.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I understand your concern. I was saying they did ask, instead of just stealing them. I wasn't suggesting that you give them permission.
I don't know what their intentions are. What do you think?


----------



## golddredgergold

ammoaddict said:


> I finally got around to putting the bar and chain on it. The adjuster works if the bar nuts are REALLY loose.
> It oils but not very much, it's turned to Max. It came up a storm so I didn't get to mess with it anymoreView attachment 657736


I pulled my clutch off and found that for sure the wire that is around the plastic worm gear that engages the clutch spins freely. New it turned pretty easy. So your oil pump is not being driven by the worm gear with the wire spinning around. So the fix? I tried smashing the wire ring smaller to fit the plastic tighter. It has worked but it is very temporary till the OEM worm drive and wire arrives. The Huztl wire does not hold its spring tension at all. So I highly recommend getting the oem gear.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> I pulled my clutch off and found that for sure the wire that is around the plastic worm gear that engages the clutch spins freely. New it turned pretty easy. So your oil pump is not being driven by the worm gear with the wire spinning around. So the fix? I tried smashing the wire ring smaller to fit the plastic tighter. It has worked but it is very temporary till the OEM worm drive and wire arrives. The Huztl wire does not hold its spring tension at all. So I highly recommend getting the oem gear.


We have learned quite a bit over time. These details matter. Wonder how much it would cost them to check every 200th and pull them and correct it. We pay twice, sometimes three times. Once when we buy it, second when we ask for one that works and three when we hear the ridiculous response our engineer say it should work, hope you understand. And we go buy an oem and tell out forum mates, warning, warning. Sometimes the defect causes great ruin. All over a lack of quality control process that is recognized by the Free World as actually working.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## dmitriy

Got my kit in the mail, let the fun begin.
Measure the piston / cylinder & ring gap:
Piston 53.95mm mostly consistent
Cylinder top and mid ~53.97-53.98mm bottom skirt ~54.01-54.02mm HMMM maybe thats why they suck
Ring gap: .3mm & .35mm measured mid cylinder

Anyone have input on this other then run it for a bit then check or get the meteor kit?


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I would really like to find some small wood. I have some big logs i have been saving for slabs. To break it in I would like some 8_10in wood. Quick in out for three tanks
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Well Bedford I discovered today when I was running mine this morning that I had a base gasket leek it wasn't bad enough to hurt anything lucky I could tell right away from how it was acting coming out of the cut weird how it just started to leek all is good again I put a new base not a farmertec one ether I put a oem Stihl base gasket in and used a very very thin lair of fuel resistant and heat resistant sealer have to let it sit for 24 hours before I can run it again so out comes the old 064av tomorrow. Lol


----------



## MG porting

dmitriy said:


> Got my kit in the mail, let the fun begin.
> Measure the piston / cylinder & ring gap:
> Piston 53.95mm mostly consistent
> Cylinder top and mid ~53.97-53.98mm bottom skirt ~54.01-54.02mm HMMM maybe thats why they suck
> Ring gap: .3mm & .35mm measured mid cylinder
> 
> Anyone have input on this other then run it for a bit then check or get the meteor kit?


You can run with the farmertec cylinder kit but in my opinion I wouldn't waste my time I would spend the extra money and get the meteor cylinder kit for it.


----------



## golddredgergold

dmitriy said:


> Got my kit in the mail, let the fun begin.
> Measure the piston / cylinder & ring gap:
> Piston 53.95mm mostly consistent
> Cylinder top and mid ~53.97-53.98mm bottom skirt ~54.01-54.02mm HMMM maybe thats why they suck
> Ring gap: .3mm & .35mm measured mid cylinder
> 
> Anyone have input on this other then run it for a bit then check or get the meteor kit?


I would run it. Cylinders are always larger at the bottom than the top. Dirt bikes jet skis all the same. Yours sounds fairly consistent to. Just put some time in on the chamfer around all the ports. Make sure everything is beveled nice top and bottom as to not have anywhere a ring can get hung up. Run 32-1 and let r rip!


----------



## smokey7

If your measurements are goot that has too much clearance at the bottom. Thats probably why alot of guys are getting weird wear patterns at the bottom of the intake skirt. Ie piston is rocking in the bore. Do me a favor take the piston no rings put it in the bore and use feeler gauges to measure the clearance then flip the piston upside down and measure again. I wouldnt want anymore then .005


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> The husky fits the Stihl? They don't mention that in the ad. Diameter looks same. Length is what I wonder about. Here is an AM that the guy says is different. I have no idea
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/DECOMPRESS...0-044-MS440-046-MS460-066-MS660-/231823667627
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Yes they do fit.


----------



## dmitriy

smokey7 said:


> If your measurements are goot that has too much clearance at the bottom. Thats probably why alot of guys are getting weird wear patterns at the bottom of the intake skirt. Ie piston is rocking in the bore. Do me a favor take the piston no rings put it in the bore and use feeler gauges to measure the clearance then flip the piston upside down and measure again. I wouldnt want anymore then .005



Ok I will double check.

Does anyone have a current IPL for the 660? The one I have is from 2004 and it doesn't quite match some of the part _numbers_ on this list to replace with OEM parts (thank you @Bedford T ):

#9512 003 3281 - OEM piston bearing
#1122 034 1500 - wrist pin OEM
#1122 160 5400 - Brake Band
#1122 160 5500 - Brake Tension Spring
#1128 020 9400 - Decomp Valve

Fuel System:
#1122 353 9200 - Gromet
#0000 350 5802 - Vent
#4224 122 3900 - Elbow Connector
#1124 358 7700 - Fuel Tank line
#0000 350 0509 - OEM fuel cap

#1122 025 2200 - decomp plug
#9512 933 2381 - Clutch Bearing
#1128 160 5000 - Brake Lever
#1122 195 0400 - Starter Rope rotor
#1122 190 3400 - Elastostart Hangle Assembly
#1122 351 0901 - Tank Guard part


----------



## Bedford T

dmitriy said:


> Ok I will double check.
> 
> Does anyone have a current IPL for the 660? The one I have is from 2004 and it doesn't quite match some of the part _numbers_ on this list to replace with OEM parts (thank you @Bedford T ):
> 
> #9512 003 3281 - OEM piston bearing
> #1122 034 1500 - wrist pin OEM
> #1122 160 5400 - Brake Band
> #1122 160 5500 - Brake Tension Spring
> #1128 020 9400 - Decomp Valve
> 
> Fuel System:
> #1122 353 9200 - Gromet
> #0000 350 5802 - Vent
> #4224 122 3900 - Elbow Connector
> #1124 358 7700 - Fuel Tank line
> #0000 350 0509 - OEM fuel cap
> 
> #1122 025 2200 - decomp plug
> #9512 933 2381 - Clutch Bearing
> #1128 160 5000 - Brake Lever
> #1122 195 0400 - Starter Rope rotor
> #1122 190 3400 - Elastostart Hangle Assembly
> #1122 351 0901 - Tank Guard part


Check your messages for an ipl

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## dmitriy

Bedford T said:


> Check your messages for an ipl
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Awesome, Thank you!


----------



## Bedford T

dmitriy said:


> Ok I will double check.
> 
> Does anyone have a current IPL for the 660? The one I have is from 2004 and it doesn't quite match some of the part _numbers_ on this list to replace with OEM parts (thank you @Bedford T ):
> 
> #9512 003 3281 - OEM piston bearing
> #1122 034 1500 - wrist pin OEM
> #1122 160 5400 - Brake Band
> #1122 160 5500 - Brake Tension Spring
> #1128 020 9400 - Decomp Valve
> 
> Fuel System:
> #1122 353 9200 - Gromet
> #0000 350 5802 - Vent
> #4224 122 3900 - Elbow Connector
> #1124 358 7700 - Fuel Tank line
> #0000 350 0509 - OEM fuel cap
> 
> #1122 025 2200 - decomp plug
> #9512 933 2381 - Clutch Bearing
> #1128 160 5000 - Brake Lever
> #1122 195 0400 - Starter Rope rotor
> #1122 190 3400 - Elastostart Hangle Assembly
> #1122 351 0901 - Tank Guard part


Couple of things, the worm gear should be added and the carb from mittys.

On the cylinder. If you are replacing the other parts that means you care. You want to feel like that saw is dependable. Something to really be proud of and use for a long time.

I had never had a new oem quailty cylinder in my hand until recently. Had used ones when working on a saw. But I was able to put the meteor side by side with the farmertec and it was remarkable the differences. 

Money does not grow on trees but if you do it now before prices go up you are going to have a great saw with that topend. 

If the deadline was not coming up waiting if financials we're in favor would be ok. But plowing head, you will be done. You will be ahead of the game. You can come hang out here and help other people get where you are. Yours will be working.

So your decision should yes if you can afford too.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> Well Bedford I discovered today when I was running mine this morning that I had a base gasket leek it wasn't bad enough to hurt anything lucky I could tell right away from how it was acting coming out of the cut weird how it just started to leek all is good again I put a new base not a farmertec one ether I put a oem Stihl base gasket in and used a very very thin lair of fuel resistant and heat resistant sealer have to let it sit for 24 hours before I can run it again so out comes the old 064av tomorrow. Lol


Glad you caught it. I used some dirko on the case, laid my gasket on and let it dry and then put on the top. Since I was putting on that piece of art, I felt the deck was going to be flat and did not use any sealant on top side. 

I will pressure check it soon. 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Glad you caught it. I used some dirko on the case, laid my gasket on and let it dry and then put on the top. Since I was putting on that piece of art, I felt the deck was going to be flat and did not use any sealant on top side.
> 
> I will pressure check it soon.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


The stuff I used is like the most expensive permatex that I normally use for cars this go around its very nice stuff and go's on sooper thin very heat resistant and fuel resistant but takes a while to dry good stuff for this application and the gasket is a coated one so it shouldn't give me any problems now.


----------



## dmitriy

Just stopped by the local dealer and got some prices, are these in line with what you guys are paying?
$7.00 #9512 003 3281 - OEM piston bearing
$21.00 #1122 034 1500 - wrist pin OEM
$14.80 #1122 160 5400 - Brake Band
$8.40 #1122 160 5500 - Brake Tension Spring
$16.69 #1128 020 9400 - Decomp Valve

Fuel System:
$2.59 #1122 353 9200 - Gromet
$5.89 #0000 350 5802 - Vent
$0.49 #4224 122 3900 - Elbow Connector
$15.40 #1124 358 7700 - Fuel Tank line
$7.29 #0000 350 0509 - OEM fuel cap

#1122 025 2200 - decomp plug
$7.20 #9512 933 2381 - Clutch Bearing
#1128 160 5000 - Brake Lever
#1122 195 0400 - Starter Rope rotor
#1122 190 3400 - Elastostart Hangle Assembly
#1122 351 0901 - Tank Guard part



Bedford T said:


> Couple of things, the worm gear should be added and the carb from mittys.
> 
> On the cylinder. If you are replacing the other parts that means you care. You want to feel like that saw is dependable. Something to really be proud of and use for a long time.
> 
> I had never had a new oem quailty cylinder in my hand until recently. Had used ones when working on a saw. But I was able to put the meteor side by side with the farmertec and it was remarkable the differences.
> 
> Money does not grow on trees but if you do it now before prices go up you are going to have a great saw with that topend.
> 
> If the deadline was not coming up waiting if financials we're in favor would be ok. But plowing head, you will be done. You will be ahead of the game. You can come hang out here and help other people get where you are. Yours will be working.
> 
> So your decision should yes if you can afford too.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Thank you, got the carb from mittys already. Will look into worm gear and definitely look into the cylinder piston kit!


----------



## MG porting

dmitriy said:


> Just stopped by the local dealer and got some prices, are these in line with what you guys are paying?
> $7.00 #9512 003 3281 - OEM piston bearing
> $21.00 #1122 034 1500 - wrist pin OEM
> $14.80 #1122 160 5400 - Brake Band
> $8.40 #1122 160 5500 - Brake Tension Spring
> $16.69 #1128 020 9400 - Decomp Valve
> 
> Fuel System:
> $2.59 #1122 353 9200 - Gromet
> $5.89 #0000 350 5802 - Vent
> $0.49 #4224 122 3900 - Elbow Connector
> $15.40 #1124 358 7700 - Fuel Tank line
> $7.29 #0000 350 0509 - OEM fuel cap
> 
> #1122 025 2200 - decomp plug
> $7.20 #9512 933 2381 - Clutch Bearing
> #1128 160 5000 - Brake Lever
> #1122 195 0400 - Starter Rope rotor
> #1122 190 3400 - Elastostart Hangle Assembly
> #1122 351 0901 - Tank Guard part
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, got the carb from mittys already. Will look into worm gear and definitely look into the cylinder piston kit!


Yep those prices are pretty much the same.


----------



## Bedford T

I just spent some time with mine. It sure takes a while to break it in. I was soaking wet by the time I gently ran a 1/3 tank out. I had to quit. My bar was dry. So my worm is not working either.

That should fix mine, no more messing with it.

It had enough power, I did not have to run it wide open to cut rounds. Really happy

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## dmitriy

Just measured the piston again (somehow the previous measurements are incorrect)
Piston: 
Top (ring) 53.81-83mm
Bottom (skirt area) 53.97mm 



dmitriy said:


> Got my kit in the mail, let the fun begin.
> Measure the piston / cylinder & ring gap:
> Piston 53.95mm mostly consistent
> Cylinder top and mid ~53.97-53.98mm bottom skirt ~54.01-54.02mm HMMM maybe thats why they suck
> Ring gap: .3mm & .35mm measured mid cylinder
> 
> Anyone have input on this other then run it for a bit then check or get the meteor kit?





smokey7 said:


> If your measurements are goot that has too much clearance at the bottom. Thats probably why alot of guys are getting weird wear patterns at the bottom of the intake skirt. Ie piston is rocking in the bore. Do me a favor take the piston no rings put it in the bore and use feeler gauges to measure the clearance then flip the piston upside down and measure again. I wouldnt want anymore then .005



So here are the measurements I got with piston in cylinder all the way in (so measurement take at about 1/2 up the bore), no rings, piston pushed to 1 side and measured with feeler gauge on the opposite side:
Right side up clearance (piston top to cylinder top) is about 0.004" 
Up side down clearance (piston skirt to cylinder top) is about 0.007"

Clearly the cylinder & piston are BOTH off.
Hmmm to bother contacting Huztl on this & the brake band (missing the pin as usual)?


----------



## Bedford T

dmitriy said:


> Just measured the piston again (somehow the previous measurements are incorrect)
> Piston:
> Top (ring) 53.81-83mm
> Bottom (skirt area) 53.97mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the measurements I got with piston in cylinder all the way in (so measurement take at about 1/2 up the bore), no rings, piston pushed to 1 side and measured with feeler gauge on the opposite side:
> Right side up clearance (piston top to cylinder top) is about 0.004"
> Up side down clearance (piston skirt to cylinder top) is about 0.007"
> 
> Clearly the cylinder & piston are BOTH off.
> Hmmm to bother contacting Huztl on this & the brake band (missing the pin as usual)?


Don't even get me started on the pin. They saved a little money on something as important as that. Idiots. I bitched they just sent the pin. Pin should be made into band

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I just spent some time with mine. It sure takes a while to break it in. I was soaking wet by the time I gently ran a 1/3 tank out. I had to quit. My bar was dry. So my worm is not working either.
> 
> That should fix mine, no more messing with it.
> 
> It had enough power, I did not have to run it wide open to cut rounds. Really happy
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I'm glad you like it it should be a good saw for you for a good long time.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I just spent some time with mine. It sure takes a while to break it in. I was soaking wet by the time I gently ran a 1/3 tank out. I had to quit. My bar was dry. So my worm is not working either.
> 
> That should fix mine, no more messing with it.
> 
> It had enough power, I did not have to run it wide open to cut rounds. Really happy
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Dumb weormgear they just suck I take it that the one you have is a FarmerTec I throw mine in the trash ones I put in the oem Stihl.


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> Don't even get me started on the pin. They saved a little money on something as important as that. Idiots. I bitched they just sent the pin. Pin should be made into band
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


My pin was in the bag but not in the band.


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> My pin was in the bag but not in the band.


We all understand what the pins purpose is, it's to keep the band from racking when force is applied. They are suppose to be copies, Stihl does not have it in two pieces.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

No oil hose in stock but found the worm @ 3rd dealer. I am going to get a Oregon rim kit. I have a oem clutch bearing. 






chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Got my 660 wrap around bar today from Huztl along with some other small parts. Love the way they ship. Nuts! Now to put it on.


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> No oil hose in stock but found the worm @ 3rd dealer. I am going to get a Oregon rim kit. I have a oem clutch bearing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


What was the price?


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> What was the price?


I put it so you could see the price. 16.49. what was yours

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> No oil hose in stock but found the worm @ 3rd dealer. I am going to get a Oregon rim kit. I have a oem clutch bearing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Lol. ACE is the place !!!


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Got my 660 wrap around bar today from Huztl along with some other small parts. Love the way they ship. Nuts! Now to put it on. View attachment 657845


That's the cheap way of shipping.


----------



## ammoaddict

golddredgergold said:


> Got my 660 wrap around bar today from Huztl along with some other small parts. Love the way they ship. Nuts! Now to put it on. View attachment 657845


Wow, Chinese art work


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> I put it so you could see the price. 16.49. what was yours
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy





Bedford T said:


> I put it so you could see the price. 16.49. what was yours
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Lol I did not look at the picture that close! I am remedial. Please excuse


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Lol I did not look at the picture that close! I am remedial. Please excuse


Ok now the poster asked you a question can you provide an answer, do you need help? It was about the pretty picture. Lol

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Well I got a chance to look at the saw again after work. I took the clutch cover off and was going to pull the clutch but then I thought I would Crank It Up and see if any oil is coming out. It was pumping oil. I put it back together, fired it back up and let it run a little bit. I revved it up a few times and it is slinging a little oil off the bar and chain. It is a new farmertec bar and chain and the chain was extremely tight in the bar at first. It loosened up after a few minutes and I could turn the Chain by hand. So it is oiling I'm just uncertain if it's enough oil or not at this point. I cut a couple small cookies and it cut very well. I was Dripping sweat so I put it back up. It was 92 degrees here in the foothills of North Carolina.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> Well I got a chance to look at the saw again after work. I took the clutch cover off and was going to pull the clutch but then I thought I would Crank It Up and see if any oil is coming out. It was pumping oil. I put it back together, fired it back up and let it run a little bit. I revved it up a few times and it is slinging a little oil off the bar and chain. It is a new farmertec bar and chain and the chain was extremely tight in the bar at first. It loosened up after a few minutes and I could turn the Chain by hand. So it is oiling I'm just uncertain if it's enough oil or not at this point. I cut a couple small cookies and it cut very well. I was Dripping sweat so I put it back up. It was 92 degrees here in the foothills of North Carolina.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


I was out in it here mocksville breaking mine in. I got soaking wet in no time. Crazy weather

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> I was out in it here mocksville breaking mine in. I got soaking wet in no time. Crazy weather
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


You live in Mocksville, NC? I live close to Lenoir. A little over an hour from Mocksville.


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> You live in Mocksville, NC? I live close to Lenoir. A little over an hour from Mocksville.


I know it. Summers in hickory/granite falls.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
There was a small radio station in Lenoir I think that had a program called "swap shop" an early Craigslist. I will never forget that. From cows to plows, even canning, lol


----------



## ammoaddict

I remember it. I think the radio station is still there. There are a couple in Lenoir actually. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> I remember it. I think the radio station is still there. There are a couple in Lenoir actually.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Good times

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Canyon Angler

golddredgergold said:


> Got my 660 wrap around bar today from Huztl



I had to do some serious bending with Channellocks to get my FarmerTec wrap-around bar (got off ebay) to fit my 660...and even then it was a little kludgey...

Fortunately, the saw came with a regular bar, so the holes were already there...


----------



## Bedford T

Canyon Angler said:


> I had to do some serious bending with Channellocks to get my FarmerTec wrap-around bar (got off ebay) to fit my 660...and even then it was a little kludgey...


They way the ship it effects that. I needed 3 hands. On the handle it's best to make your threads first and then place the handle.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Good news. My wrap around bar fit perfect. No bending or tweaking. Just went right on. Pretty stoked
Took 5 minutes litterly to do. Will take a picture when I get home.


----------



## golddredgergold

Pictures


----------



## Bedford T

man thats a beautiful saw. mg is drooling, where are you man? he is flashing you some saw p0-rn!

you are missing the squench holder. its a black knot of rubber that slips over the bar and you stick your bar wrench down it. the highlighted area has your part number and name if you want one. bling! works great


----------



## golddredgergold

I will check into that wrench holder for sure.
And thanks for the compliments on the saw. I am pretty proud of it. Came out sharp. More time than there should be in it but gonna last awhile I think.


----------



## Canyon Angler

Bedford T said:


> you are missing the squench holder.



Also missing the gas tank protection plate:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GAS-HANDLE...FOR-STIHL-CHAINSAW-064-066-MS660/361895487909


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> PicturesView attachment 657901
> View attachment 657902
> View attachment 657903


That's chainsaw **** right there I tell you!!!!


----------



## Bedford T

Canyon Angler said:


> Also missing the gas tank protection plate:
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/GAS-HANDLE...FOR-STIHL-CHAINSAW-064-066-MS660/361895487909


Good catch. 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

i wanted to order something from thatgerman supplier. I wrote and asked if the part was made by farmertec. they avoided the question which is hard to do in writing. so i wrote them back and asked them to simply look at their invoice and let me know what the resukt was. Below is the email. That is really sad. dishonest retail.


----------



## Bedford T

I think I broke it 






chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Canyon Angler

That's how mine was when I first got it. Turned out it had the muffler gasket delete. Put in a gasket (and a big exhaust pipe) and no more drool!


----------



## Bedford T

Canyon Angler said:


> That's how mine was when I first got it. Turned out it had the muffler gasket delete. Put in a gasket (and a big exhaust pipe) and no more drool!


I just tuned it. It slobbers during. I wondered if someone would catch it.

With this cylinder with the walbro, I had to abort the tune 3 times and reset. I kept running out of needle on the high side. The final was starting at 1.25 out on L and 1.5 on H and that left me enough needle to tune to 12500

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> I just tuned it. It slobbers during. I wondered if someone would catch it.
> 
> With this cylinder with the walbro, I had to abort the tune 3 times and reset. I kept running out of needle on the high side. The final was starting at 1.25 out on L and 1.5 on H and that left me enough needle to tune to 12500
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


That don't look like slobber, that looks like diarrhea.


----------



## Canyon Angler

Mine was a little over 11,000 when it arrived. After 10-15 tanks, I opened up the muffler to about 74% of ex. port area, then tuned it to about 12-12.5k with 1.2 turns out on both jets, FWIW. Took it to my saw guy and he said it sounded perfect to him. Saw seems stronger and stronger. )))

Mine has Meteor P+C and a number of other upgrades (Oregon clutch, Taiwan crank, Olean bearings) and OEM (not sure what the exact breakdown is) but it seems like the guy who did it really knew what he was doing.


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> That don't look like slobber, that looks like diarrhea.


I have had them look worse. I am happy with it.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

What is everyone's idling at mine seems to like 2750-2800? But mines ported so I know it's going to be a little picky just curious.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T a little slobber on the saw will help keep the tree pitch from sticking to the case. Lol


----------



## davhul

I noticed half way through my oiler quit. It was the pump. Already had a oem worm.


----------



## golddredgergold

davhul said:


> I noticed half way through my oiler quit. It was the pump. Already had a oem worm.



Bummer for sure. Get the HO pump from Ireland on ebay.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Bummer for sure. Get the HO pump from Ireland on ebay.


I sent him one. I keep extras of stuff, hate to wait. I found 3 660 oilers in my parts box yesterday. extras where I had replaced with HO plus an extra HO.

You guys see the tariff list. Chainsaw fell off but not bearings. Diesel tractors gonna hurt. We need a diesel 090

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## davhul

golddredgergold said:


> Bummer for sure. Get the HO pump from Ireland on ebay.



It was. Out of 4 pumps 1 quit and bedford sent me another so I didn't have to wait. Thanks Bedford, Ireland sent me another no questions asked. 
When I put the pump on I put the worm on before I tighten the screws to help center the pump.


----------



## davhul

MG porting said:


> What is everyone's idling at mine seems to like 2750-2800? But mines ported so I know it's going to be a little picky just curious.



I like around 2800. With the stiff huztl springs the chain won't creep til over 3500 I think.


----------



## ammoaddict

I think mine is around 2800, I will have to check it again.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

davhul said:


> It was. Out of 4 pumps 1 quit and bedford sent me another so I didn't have to wait. Thanks Bedford, Ireland sent me another no questions asked.
> When I put the pump on I put the worm on before I tighten the screws to help center the pump.


I got a worm and a new rim kit coming. I gotta remember to do put the worm on first that's a smart move.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

MG porting said:


> What is everyone's idling at mine seems to like 2750-2800? But mines ported so I know it's going to be a little picky just curious.


I checked it again today. It jumps around from 2400 to 2800. It's not steady. I turned it to 12,500. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## golddredgergold

Picked up my new worm gear yesterday. $17.49+ tax. And they actually had it in stock! Bloomin miracle.


----------



## golddredgergold

Any of you guys have a picture of this plate mounted on the saw so I can see the bottom and how it bolts on? I know it bolts to the handlebar mount. Just would like a nice straight on picture of it if you could please.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Any of you guys have a picture of this plate mounted on the saw so I can see the bottom and how it bolts on? I know it bolts to the handlebar mount. Just would like a nice straight on picture of it if you could please.View attachment 658135


That plate covers the bottom. That's not what Stihl sells. I will show you that one and maybe it will help.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

This is on my 660






chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Canyon Angler

I've seen that part, but I don't understand what it's supposed to do. Protect the handle if it throws a chain?

It ain't gonna protect the tank that I can see...


----------



## Bedford T

Canyon Angler said:


> I've seen that part, but I don't understand what it's supposed to do. Protect the handle if it throws a chain?
> 
> It ain't gonna protect the tank that I can see...


It covers the part the chain wacks. It would damage the area right outside. It has a lip that covers the edge.

I bet they put some thought into it based on warranty claims from folks bitching and whining

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Who all has had leaking fuel caps and what's the best fix? Mine leaks badly sometimes and sometime not at all. It's the solid black one. I've tried very hand tight, screw driver tight, doesn't seem to matter. It almost like it a little too big and you have to find the perfect sweet spot for it not to leak.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> Who all has had leaking fuel caps and what's the best fix? Mine leaks badly sometimes and sometime not at all. It's the solid black one. I've tried very hand tight, screw driver tight, doesn't seem to matter. It almost like it a little too big and you have to find the perfect sweet spot for it not to leak.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



OEM, oem, oem cap

A little chant.

It's likely the seal, if you replace the seal it may not work cause it's not flat

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Have you guys seen complaints of fuel spraying when you unseal the fuel cap. [emoji91] fighters worried. I use av100 and don't have that problem could it be the gas mixture or am I just lucky.

(With a oem vent)

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> OEM, oem, oem cap
> 
> A little chant.
> 
> It's likely the seal, if you replace the seal it may not work cause it's not flat
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I will get an oem if that will fix it. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> I will get an oem if that will fix it.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Unless you have a new problem. I have seen your issue, I have had your issue, yes it solved them both. Issue has been the cap not the handle.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

I didn't know if it was a tank problem or a cap problem because they don't seem to match up with each other very well

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

Thanks for the help. I will get an oem cap


Bedford T said:


> Unless you have a new problem. I have seen your issue, I have had your issue, yes it solved them both. Issue has been the cap not the handle.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## golddredgergold

I broke down a bought an oem gas cap. I tried o ring on the huztl caps also and they still leaked. I only the bought the gas cap and. I will need to get an oil to. Its a slow leaker. Leaves its mark where ever I set it down.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Any of you guys have a picture of this plate mounted on the saw so I can see the bottom and how it bolts on? I know it bolts to the handlebar mount. Just would like a nice straight on picture of it if you could please.View attachment 658135


You bought that cover plate from Costume chainsaw parts?


----------



## MG porting

And thanks for the you're responds I had to go all the way to Portland and back to WA today so now just getting back to you guys. Lol


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Have you guys seen complaints of fuel spraying when you unseal the fuel cap. [emoji91] fighters worried. I use av100 and don't have that problem could it be the gas mixture or am I just lucky.
> 
> (With a oem vent)
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


It's your mix.


----------



## golddredgergold

Thought I would share a couple of pics. I got the 4 sets of 660 covers hydro dipped and cleared. Came out sharp. I will get some really good pictures outside in the sunlight tomorrow. 
I did one 070 cover I have one more to do with a different American flag pattern. Kick in the pants to do. 660 covers 1 is solid black, 1 is skulls, 1 American flags, and 1 silver/black carbon fiber. The 070 is real tree camo over orange.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> I broke down a bought an oem gas cap. I tried o ring on the huztl caps also and they still leaked. I only the bought the gas cap and. I will need to get an oil to. Its a slow leaker. Leaves its mark where ever I set it down.


Are you sure you put your "washer" between the pump and the oil hose. Forget the proper name, also the farmertec oil hose is a little too soft so even if the washer is in place it can leak oil.

You are an artist on those covers

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Happy father's day guys

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Thought I would share a couple of pics. I got the 4 sets of 660 covers hydro dipped and cleared. Came out sharp. I will get some really good pictures outside in the sunlight tomorrow.
> I did one 070 cover I have one more to do with a different American flag pattern. Kick in the pants to do. 660 covers 1 is solid black, 1 is skulls, 1 American flags, and 1 silver/black carbon fiber. The 070 is real tree camo over orange.View attachment 658170
> View attachment 658171
> View attachment 658172
> View attachment 658173
> View attachment 658174
> View attachment 658175
> View attachment 658176
> View attachment 658177
> View attachment 658178
> View attachment 658179


Those are really nice good job. Pm me.


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> Are you sure you put your "washer" between the pump and the oil hose. Forget the proper name, also the farmertec oil hose is a little too soft so even if the washer is in place it can leak oil.
> 
> You are an artist on those covers
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Yes I did its running right out of the cap down the case a dripping. Pretty lame. I wonder if huztl has built a saw? Because if they have there is no doubt they would know the caps leak and need help.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Happy father's day guys
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Happy Father's day. And yes he is really good with those covers.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Yes I did its running right out of the cap down the case a dripping. Pretty lame. I wonder if huztl has built a saw? Because if they have there is no doubt they would know the caps leak and need help.


Some of you guys just don't get it. They make them if they don't work it's your fault. They don't have quality control like we know it. It's thier employees fault and on and on. You are just not trying hard enough to make it work. Lol

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

A great business model

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Thought I would share a couple of pics. I got the 4 sets of 660 covers hydro dipped and cleared. Came out sharp. I will get some really good pictures outside in the sunlight tomorrow.
> I did one 070 cover I have one more to do with a different American flag pattern. Kick in the pants to do. 660 covers 1 is solid black, 1 is skulls, 1 American flags, and 1 silver/black carbon fiber. The 070 is real tree camo over orange.View attachment 658170
> View attachment 658171
> View attachment 658172
> View attachment 658173
> View attachment 658174
> View attachment 658175
> View attachment 658176
> View attachment 658177
> View attachment 658178
> View attachment 658179


I PM you on buying a set

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

golddredgergold said:


> Thought I would share a couple of pics. I got the 4 sets of 660 covers hydro dipped and cleared. Came out sharp. I will get some really good pictures outside in the sunlight tomorrow.
> I did one 070 cover I have one more to do with a different American flag pattern. Kick in the pants to do. 660 covers 1 is solid black, 1 is skulls, 1 American flags, and 1 silver/black carbon fiber. The 070 is real tree camo over orange.View attachment 658170
> View attachment 658171
> View attachment 658172
> View attachment 658173
> View attachment 658174
> View attachment 658175
> View attachment 658176
> View attachment 658177
> View attachment 658178
> View attachment 658179


Awesome. I like the American flag the best. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## golddredgergold

MG porting said:


> You bought that cover plate from Costume chainsaw parts?


Nope not yet. I was considering making my own.


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> Awesome. I like the American flag the best.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


The 070 is growing on me. The orange base is awesome. I like the flag too. I will get one. I think I am going to order the Stihl pressure pump kit with all the adapters and get the set of foam drawer inserts before I get the covers. My pressure gun works perfect, but I don't have all the adapters and flanges and this way I can have tools at both benches. I love having all the special tools

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> The 070 is growing on me. The orange base is awesome. I like the flag too. I will get one. I think I am going to order the Stihl pressure pump kit with all the adapters and get the set of foam drawer inserts before I get the covers. My pressure gun works perfect, but I don't have all the adapters and flanges and this way I can have tools at both benches. I love having all the special tools
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Cool, I didn't know Stihl had all that

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> Cool, I didn't know Stihl had all that
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


There is picture on my website. It's bad to the bone

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

070 wears the camo top very nicely!


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> Nope not yet. I was considering making my own.


I though about making my own to but there price is pretty fare on it I think but one thing I noticed on the cover plate is it go's under the handle bar so that's the only thing that keeps me from getting one but I think that's only on the full rap handle bars for fire and rescue ones.


----------



## MG porting

golddredgergold said:


> 070 wears the camo top very nicely!View attachment 658278
> View attachment 658279
> View attachment 658280
> View attachment 658281


Very cool.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> 070 wears the camo top very nicely!View attachment 658278
> View attachment 658279
> View attachment 658280
> View attachment 658281


That's a beauty

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Thanks fellas! Like I say more of a fun little project than anything. Gonna list them on feebay though for sure. See how it goes.


----------



## William Prophett

Just a "heads up" for you guys to check out. I found this on my second mill saw, there is a nylon chain guide on the crank case, behind the bar plate. With that guide installed (and it shouldn't be), the guide plate doesn't seat completely against the case around the oil journal slot. What happens is that the bar oil comes out of the journal and leaks down behind the plate instead of it all going into your bar. If you take off the nylon guide strip, make sure to mess around with the bar plate to make sure it hasn't been bent at the top from the guide strip. Bend it around and keep putting it back on until it sits flat. Then, when you mount your bar it will make the plate sit flat and all your bar oil will be going into the bar journal hole.


----------



## ammoaddict

I will have to look at mine again but I don't remember it having that.


William Prophett said:


> Just a "heads up" for you guys to check out. I found this on my second mill saw, there is a nylon chain guide on the crank case, behind the bar plate. With that guide installed (and it shouldn't be), the guide plate doesn't seat completely against the case around the oil journal slot. What happens is that the bar oil comes out of the journal and leaks down behind the plate instead of it all going into your bar. If you take off the nylon guide strip, make sure to mess around with the bar plate to make sure it hasn't been bent at the top from the guide strip. Bend it around and keep putting it back on until it sits flat. Then, when you mount your bar it will make the plate sit flat and all your bar oil will be going into the bar journal hole.



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

ammoaddict said:


> I will have to look at mine again but I don't remember it having that.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


It was on both of my 660s. They are stuck on there from Farmertech, so you probably didn't even notice it.


----------



## MG porting

You must have bought a complete running saw from farmertec the only place that the plastic guide strips go is on the bar cover.


----------



## ammoaddict

Maybe not. I just remember the ones on the clutch cover. I check it tomorrow after work


William Prophett said:


> It was on both of my 660s. They are stuck on there from Farmertech, so you probably didn't even notice it.



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

MG porting said:


> You must have bought a complete running saw from farmertec the only place that the plastic guide strips go is on the bar cover.


No, I built both the saws from the kit, and I agree with you, the guide doesn't belong on the case behind the bar plate.


----------



## William Prophett

Both of my kits had the nylon guide right behind the top corner of the plate.


----------



## Bedford T

William Prophett said:


> Just a "heads up" for you guys to check out. I found this on my second mill saw, there is a nylon chain guide on the crank case, behind the bar plate. With that guide installed (and it shouldn't be), the guide plate doesn't seat completely against the case around the oil journal slot. What happens is that the bar oil comes out of the journal and leaks down behind the plate instead of it all going into your bar. If you take off the nylon guide strip, make sure to mess around with the bar plate to make sure it hasn't been bent at the top from the guide strip. Bend it around and keep putting it back on until it sits flat. Then, when you mount your bar it will make the plate sit flat and all your bar oil will be going into the bar journal hole.


I hear what you are saying. That sounds like one of those "differences". If you built your saw then you installed the guide or somebody was bored that day. The case as we all know comes only with the seals and bearings installed. I have no doubt that is something that could make a huge difference on some cases. I have seen 3 molds used, don't doubt there could be more. That is certainly a likely outcome. Sitting here I think mine might not sit flat and have the guide I put in place. I will look and appreciate the tip 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> I hear what you are saying. That sounds like one of those "differences". If you built your saw then you installed the guide or somebody was bored that day. The case as we all know comes only with the seals and bearings installed. I have no doubt that is something that could make a huge difference on some cases. I have seen 3 molds used, don't doubt there could be more. That is certainly a likely outcome. Sitting here I think mine might not sit flat and have the guide I put in place. I will look and appreciate the tip
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I noticed it on my second one when I was doing some milling and changing out the bar. Then I went and checked my other saw and "yup", there it was...


----------



## golddredgergold

Mine does not have the plastic guide in it.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Mine does not have the plastic guide in it.


When you hear something like that you can only check your to see if it might effect you. We been building kits a while and the parts have changed. You will see me ask questions like when did you buy the kit, not when you built it. Some people sit on them. I have tracked a lot of problems that way . Yours being a recent one.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Yes mines recent. I did get an extra one of those plastic guides with mine. They had already installed one on the outside clutch cover and put an extra in the parts.


----------



## golddredgergold

And yes I was already having oil issues so when I got back from dinner tonight I took a look to make sure it did not happen to be there.


----------



## Madharry

Hi Guys

Just finished putting together my Farmertec MS660 and I have a few parts over. Some are/seem to be spares, others I am not sure on.



Any help gratefully received.

PS my brake band came with a pin. Also thanks for all the videos chainsaw kit guy.


----------



## ammoaddict

Madharry said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> Just finished putting together my Farmertec MS660 and I have a few parts over. Some are/seem to be spares, others I am not sure on.
> View attachment 658421
> 
> 
> Any help gratefully received.
> 
> PS my brake band came with a pin. Also thanks for all the videos chainsaw kit guy.


I had a few of the same parts left and not sure about where they go. The biggest black piece is the Winter/ summer baffle, goes in the air filter cover

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

Madharry said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> Just finished putting together my Farmertec MS660 and I have a few parts over. Some are/seem to be spares, others I am not sure on.
> View attachment 658421
> 
> 
> Any help gratefully received.
> 
> PS my brake band came with a pin. Also thanks for all the videos chainsaw kit guy.


You're gonna hate this... The bolt and the "unknown" item #2 are gonna suck for you. That is the anti vibe mount that goes toward the rear flywheel side of the bottom of the case "on the inside". You are gonna have to pull the tank off to unstall it. Sorry for the bad luck. It is important because if you look underneath and put pressure on the handle you will see that there will be a ton of movement toward where that mount goes... I'll see if I can pull up the parts diagram to show you where it goes.


----------



## William Prophett

Madharry said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> Just finished putting together my Farmertec MS660 and I have a few parts over. Some are/seem to be spares, others I am not sure on.
> View attachment 658421
> 
> 
> Any help gratefully received.
> 
> PS my brake band came with a pin. Also thanks for all the videos chainsaw kit guy.


Its part#29 and #30.
https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/stihl/diagrams/ms660-magnum/591b7b86-027b-416f-b8e6/


----------



## Madharry

Thanks guys - Yea that bit is gonna suck a bit but that is learning for you. I wont forget it ever again 

I think one of the o-rings go in the chain adjuster, not sure why it needs it.

https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/stihl/diagrams/ms660-magnum/f9e404cc-012c-4715-8264/
number 14

Not sure where the other goes.


----------



## William Prophett

Madharry said:


> Thanks guys - Yea that bit is gonna suck a bit but that is learning for you. I wont forget it ever again
> 
> I think one of the o-rings go in the chain adjuster, not sure why it needs it.
> 
> https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/stihl/diagrams/ms660-magnum/f9e404cc-012c-4715-8264/
> number 14
> 
> Not sure where the other goes.


The oring takes the "slop" out of the main worm gear. There is usually an extra one, so you may be ok. If it isn't installed, the main gear will be very loose and rack side to side and really bind up.


----------



## MG porting




----------



## ammoaddict

ammoaddict said:


> I had a few of the same parts left and not sure about where they go. The biggest black piece is the Winter/ summer baffle, goes in the air filter cover
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


I had three of these parts left, the small o ring, a grommet and what your calling a throttle boot.
I would love to know where they all go

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> I had three of these parts left, the small o ring, a grommet and what your calling a throttle boot.
> I would love to know where they all go
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


They are extras. Huztl sells a bag with all rubber parts used on the saw. They include that bag.

Example: the handle comes complete so any piece of rubber, like the throttle boot is already installed, so you wind up with an extra one in the bag. The early bags had a fuel hose too, because one was installed in handle. That holds true in the chain adjuster assembly, it comes complete in a bag, so the O-Ring in the rubber bag is extra and so on and on and on.

Now if you want to know where the extras go look on the saw and match them up. They just started providing the shutters.


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> They are extras. Huztl sells a bag with all rubber parts used on the saw. They include that bag.
> 
> Example: the handle comes complete so any piece of rubber, like the throttle boot is already installed, so you wind up with an extra one in the bag. The early bags had a fuel hose too, because one was installed in handle. That holds true in the chain adjuster assembly, it comes complete in a bag, so the O-Ring in the rubber bag is extra and so on and on and on.
> 
> Now if you want to know where the extras go look on the saw and match them up. They just started providing the shutters.


My adjuster didn't have an o ring in the bag, it was in a bag with the other rubber parts. The extra one is a lot smaller. I didn't see one on the handle assembly like it. I don't know what it goes to.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> My adjuster didn't have an o ring in the bag, it was in a bag with the other rubber parts. The extra one is a lot smaller. I didn't see one on the handle assembly like it. I don't know what it goes to. Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



that is the way it works, if you have parts that dont line up, then they had a bad day when your bags were being filled. as an example for 1.5 years they provided a 440 brake spring in the 660 kit, no 660 spring. dont try to make sense of it. just make a mental note and share with everybody what your experience was so we can keep up and try to make sense of it.

so what parts can you not sort out?


----------



## Bedford T

let me share this tip for keeping your saw cleaner. it makes a big difference.


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> that is the way it works, if you have parts that dont line up, then they had a bad day when your bags were being filled. as an example for 1.5 years they provided a 440 brake spring in the 660 kit, no 660 spring. dont try to make sense of it. just make a mental note and share with everybody what your experience was so we can keep up and try to make sense of it.
> 
> so what parts can you not sort out?


Mainly the small o ring and the other wire grommet. I only used one.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## MG porting

ammoaddict said:


> Mainly the small o ring and the other wire grommet. I only used one.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


The other wire grommet was to be used where the coil wires go through the case or you could use it where the coil wires go through the handle the other O-ring most likely for a smaller saw. 


Bedford T said:


> let me share this tip for keeping your saw cleaner. it makes a big difference.
> 
> View attachment 658539


Bedford T you cheater!


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> Mainly the small o ring and the other wire grommet. I only used one.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


This should have been covered in my videos






chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> This should have been covered in my videos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I put one there. I didn't see a place for the other one.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> I put one there. I didn't see a place for the other one.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Show a photo. Otherwise it's the wrong part in your bag or an extra. Am I not being clear? Seems like we are going round and round. Show us. This is how this works.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Madharry

Hey guys got my saw all together. Runs well. Thanks.

I think the small o-ring might be for the air filter. It fits that size thread really well and there is not much else to stop air getting in there.

Or am I wrong...


----------



## Canyon Angler

golddredgergold said:


> 070 wears the camo top very nicely!



Holy cow, Goldredgergold, you outdid yourself with that 070.


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> Show a photo. Otherwise it's the wrong part in your bag or an extra. Am I not being clear? Seems like we are going round and round. Show us. This is how this works.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Ok, it's mostly the same parts as William Prophet already posted.





Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> let me share this tip for keeping your saw cleaner. it makes a big difference.
> 
> View attachment 658539


Where did you find that? Auto parts store?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

ammoaddict said:


> Ok, it's mostly the same parts as William Prophet already posted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


On that little o-ring, the only one that I see on the parts breakdown around that size is on the carb adjustment screws... Anyway, all those parts should be extras.


----------



## ammoaddict

Well the mail man brought the 660 a new playmate.





Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

ammoaddict said:


> Well the mail man brought the 660 a new playmate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> Well the mail man brought the 660 a new playmate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


That deserves a 070 or 090

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

I don't think I'm man enough for anything bigger than the 660


Bedford T said:


> That deserves a 070 or 090
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> I don't think I'm man enough for anything bigger than the 660
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


You are all set then

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> You are all set then
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I let the 660 sit there and idle and watch as I was putting the mill together. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> I let the 660 sit there and idle and watch as I was putting the mill together.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Teasing it lol

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

As a fella kit builders you may recall the cautions with a stock kit saw, like the fuel line propensity to pull the pickup out and cause you to go lean about half a tank when you lay it on it's side. A oem hose is softer and will keep it submerged better. I hear guys run it dry and soon they have tears. Mine did good on a mill 070 is better

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## William Prophett

William Prophett said:


>


https://photos.app.goo.gl/uarjkvULZmukqhi46


----------



## William Prophett

I just can't figure out this "picture" thing...


----------



## Bedford T

William Prophett said:


> I just can't figure out this "picture" thing...


Looks like you had all your friends with you.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

William Prophett said:


> I just can't figure out this "picture" thing...


Are you using a web browser (?) or Tapatalk or what when you post

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> Are you using a web browser (?) or Tapatalk or what when you post
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Just my phone...


----------



## golddredgergold

William Prophett said:


> Just my phone...


Did you download the tap a talk app or just a browser like chrome? 

Just a browser click the upload a file tab that's right next to the post reply tab you use to post. After you touch the upload file button your phone will pop up and ask where the file needs to come from. Select photo gallery. Then it will open the gallery of pics find the one you want to show. Click it. You will then click ok. You will then see the upload percentage bar. When it finishes the upload there is a tab that says display as thumbnail or full size. Full size is what I do. Touch that. This is what embeds the pic into the post. After that click post reply just like normal.


----------



## William Prophett

golddredgergold said:


> Did you download the tap a talk app or just a browser like chrome?
> 
> Just a browser click the upload a file tab that's right next to the post reply tab you use to post. After you touch the upload file button your phone will pop up and ask where the file needs to come from. Select photo gallery. Then it will open the gallery of pics find the one you want to show. Click it. You will then click ok. You will then see the upload percentage bar. When it finishes the upload there is a tab that says display as thumbnail or full size. Full size is what I do. Touch that. This is what embeds the pic into the post. After that click post reply just like normal.


 Cool!


----------



## William Prophett

William Prophett said:


> Cool!
> View attachment 658818


----------



## michael12345

Having an issue with the choke sticking on ms660 build. Looks like I need to clean up the opening a bit. Just wondering should the choke ever fully close (like the throttle) or is it meant to be on an a slight angle. Cheers


----------



## Bedford T

What your asking is not clear. Are you talking about the carb? That adjustment comes as you tune the saw. On the choke operation on the throttle you might need to smooth it out. Maybe by just flicking through it several times.

Photos

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

michael12345 said:


> Having an issue with the choke sticking on ms660 build. Looks like I need to clean up the opening a bit. Just wondering should the choke ever fully close (like the throttle) or is it meant to be on an a slight angle. Cheers


You may want to take the carb off and see if the butterfly is centered if it is not centered it will stick I've ran into that with a couple of carbs.


----------



## ammoaddict

William Prophett said:


> View attachment 658821


Looks good man. I just got a mill. What kind of chain is best to use?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

ammoaddict said:


> Looks good man. I just got a mill. What kind of chain is best to use?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


There are lot's to chose from, but I use the Carlton rip chains on my Stihls and Husqvarnas. Very happy with them.


----------



## William Prophett

ammoaddict said:


> Looks good man. I just got a mill. What kind of chain is best to use?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


To answer your question more clearly, there probably isn't any "right or wrong". You can make one out of a standard chain if you want. The important things are "semi chisel" and between 0 and 10 degree cutter angle. Or, the Granberg chain has a hybrid setup with scoring cutters and clearing cutters filed differently. I'd keep it as simple as possible to start. You will become a master sharpener very quickly.


----------



## Bedford T

There is a forum thread on milling here, best around. I find Google best way to search topics it indexed best. Here best we can do is say atta boy and be sure and have it broke in and lubed with a sharp chain

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

William Prophett said:


> Cool!
> View attachment 658818


You've done it! Good job and fun to post pics! Keep them coming.


----------



## Bedford T

I ordered a ms660 rim sprocket from HLSupply. They issued a tracking number. I discovered it was actually a fake tracking number so they could get paid. The sprocket has not showed up. I complained and pointed out that deceptive business practice and he hinted I was trying to get a spare to sell my friends. WTF is happening in America. I will never order from them again without using a credit card so I can charge back. I will likely have to wait 20days with PayPal. Scummy company. 

If it says drop ship beware.


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> I ordered a ms660 rim sprocket from HLSupply. They issued a tracking number. I discovered it was actually a fake tracking number so they could get paid. The sprocket has not showed up. I complained and pointed out that deceptive business practice and he hinted I was trying to get a spare to sell my friends. WTF is happening in America. I will never order from them again without using a credit card so I can charge back. I will likely have to wait 20days with PayPal. Scummy company.
> 
> If it says drop ship beware.


That's why I get most of my stuff from Baileys or somewhere never went through HL supply before maybe his wife kicked him out of the house that night to sleep in the dog house.


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> I ordered a ms660 rim sprocket from HLSupply. They issued a tracking number. I discovered it was actually a fake tracking number so they could get paid. The sprocket has not showed up. I complained and pointed out that deceptive business practice and he hinted I was trying to get a spare to sell my friends. WTF is happening in America. I will never order from them again without using a credit card so I can charge back. I will likely have to wait 20days with PayPal. Scummy company.
> 
> If it says drop ship beware.


That's some BS right there. Ridiculous for sure.


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> I ordered a ms660 rim sprocket from HLSupply. They issued a tracking number. I discovered it was actually a fake tracking number so they could get paid. The sprocket has not showed up. I complained and pointed out that deceptive business practice and he hinted I was trying to get a spare to sell my friends. WTF is happening in America. I will never order from them again without using a credit card so I can charge back. I will likely have to wait 20days with PayPal. Scummy company.
> 
> If it says drop ship beware.


I just received my decomp valve and a couple other things from HLSupply. It was my first order from them. I ordered Monday and they came Thursday.. Have you ordered from them before?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> I just received my decomp valve and a couple other things from HLSupply. It was my first order from them. I ordered Monday and they came Thursday.. Have you ordered from them before?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



yes but it will be my last. that is no way to do business. my issue was specific

the problem is they are selling something they have no control over and they did not tell me that. issuing a fake tracking number is dishonest in my eyes. they seem to only care about their end and not mine. I simply want what i paid for. i needed it, paid for it and don't have it and can't get a straight answer about it.

not sure whether its my first or 50th matters, it does not change the circumstance. why should i look for a excuse for them. anyway i was simply warning you about the way they are handling this.


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> yes but it will be my last. that is no way to do business. my issue was specific
> 
> the problem is they are selling something they have no control over and they did not tell me that. issuing a fake tracking number is dishonest in my eyes. they seem to only care about their end and not mine. I simply want what i paid for. i needed it, paid for it and don't have it and can't get a straight answer about it.
> 
> not sure whether its my first or 50th matters, it does not change the circumstance. why should i look for a excuse for them. anyway i was simply warning you about the way they are handling this.


That is not good business practice. I always thought it was a reputable company. If I had read this prior to my order, I would probably have looked elsewhere.
Did you spread the word on *** , I think they are still a sponsor on that forum

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

It wouldn't let me post the name of the other forum. Can you believe that?. You know which one it is.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> That is not good business practice. I always thought it was a reputable company. If I had read this prior to my order, I would probably have looked elsewhere.
> Did you spread the word on *** , I think they are still a sponsor on that forum
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


They booted me off thier forum because I went toe to toe with apeman. It was a big deal. The guy spent an entire day yelling for me. He signed up here under a different name and hammered me here. He had a bunch of disciples poke me. It was a trip. Never looked back. I doubt anyone there would care. Order but use a credit card so you can do a change back. I am going to quit using PayPal and my checking account. But I would not order anything drop shipped until they come up with a responsible way to treat us.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## dmitriy

So got my kit all together and it runs!!! (Got more then a few OEM parts on order). 76 carb already on there.
Of course they missed a few screws and an e-clip the brake pin was included but not installed


----------



## Bedford T

dmitriy said:


> So got my kit all together and it runs!!! (Got more then a few OEM parts on order). 76 carb already on there.
> Of course they missed a few screws and an e-clip the brake pin was included but not installed


It's fun!

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

dmitriy said:


> So got my kit all together and it runs!!! (Got more then a few OEM parts on order). 76 carb already on there.
> Of course they missed a few screws and an e-clip the brake pin was included but not installed


Congrats. First kit? It is my first and it was a bit challenging at times but I enjoyed it. It's a good feeling when it fires up isn't it?
Your last 5 photos wouldn't open up for me.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## dmitriy

ammoaddict said:


> Congrats. First kit? It is my first and it was a bit challenging at times but I enjoyed it. It's a good feeling when it fires up isn't it?
> Your last 5 photos wouldn't open up for me.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



Yep first one! Not sure what's going on with the last 5 pics they load OK for me... Hmmmmm

Squish was 0.020-0.022 
Used Hondabond on the case gasket just to be sure
Beveled the cylinder ports a bit to make sure I don't hang a ring. They came rough from the casting it seems.
Does anyone have a suggestion for a tachometer?


----------



## Bedford T

dmitriy said:


> Yep first one! Not sure what's going on with the last 5 pics they load OK for me... Hmmmmm
> 
> Squish was 0.020-0.022
> Used Hondabond on the case gasket just to be sure
> Beveled the cylinder ports a bit to make sure I don't hang a ring. They came rough from the casting it seems.
> Does anyone have a suggestion for a tachometer?


Stihl edt9 priced right from dealer. Great pics

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

dmitriy said:


> Yep first one! Not sure what's going on with the last 5 pics they load OK for me... Hmmmmm
> 
> Squish was 0.020-0.022
> Used Hondabond on the case gasket just to be sure
> Beveled the cylinder ports a bit to make sure I don't hang a ring. They came rough from the casting it seems.
> Does anyone have a suggestion for a tachometer?


I have a tech tach 20


----------



## ammoaddict

dmitriy said:


> Yep first one! Not sure what's going on with the last 5 pics they load OK for me... Hmmmmm
> 
> Squish was 0.020-0.022
> Used Hondabond on the case gasket just to be sure
> Beveled the cylinder ports a bit to make sure I don't hang a ring. They came rough from the casting it seems.
> Does anyone have a suggestion for a tachometer?


Was that squish with base gasket? Mine was .037 with out gasket. Compression is 150.


----------



## dmitriy

ammoaddict said:


> Was that squish with base gasket? Mine was .037 with out gasket. Compression is 150.



Mine was 0.020 WITH the metal base gasket (one with indents and wings)

I think I measured right- inserted solder through decompression and spark plug holes at the same time and cranked it over then measured the solder Squish area...???


----------



## ammoaddict

dmitriy said:


> Mine was 0.020 WITH the metal base gasket (one with indents and wings)
> 
> I think I measured right- inserted solder through decompression and spark plug holes at the same time and cranked it over then measured the solder Squish area...???


You must have gotten a better cylinder than I did. Did it have a name on it? I checked my squish with solder in the spark plug hole parallel to the piston pin. Then mg suggested doing it with 4 pieces at once on top on the piston held in place with grease.
How much compression do you have with that good of a squish?


----------



## dmitriy

ammoaddict said:


> You must have gotten a better cylinder than I did. Did it have a name on it? I checked my squish with solder in the spark plug hole parallel to the piston pin. Then mg suggested doing it with 4 pieces at once on top on the piston held in place with grease.
> How much compression do you have with that good of a squish?



Not sure on the cylinder name will have to look around on it (it was in a Farmertec box but that doesn't mean anything). I did my squish opposite sides one through spark plug one through decompression valve (above intake / exhaust ports) though to be thorough I guess I could gone with the 4 way...
I just did a crude (no plug instead of decomp valve, tester threads were a bit long so I had to use plumbing tape) compression test and got around 130psi. Seems a touch low no? Not sure if I can give it a strong enough yank this morning.

I have only run the saw/rings in for about 5 mins max & NOT at all close to max RPM (carb needs adjustment to make sure everything is correct and the Chinese wrist pin / bearings need to be replaced with OEM) so I wonder if it's effecting it?

This is my second saw ever, the previous one is a Mac 3216 I resurrected, but I have done a ton of dirt bikes so the engine thing is not that foreign.


----------



## ammoaddict

dmitriy said:


> Not sure on the cylinder name will have to look around on it (it was in a Farmertec box but that doesn't mean anything). I did my squish opposite sides one through spark plug one through decompression valve (above intake / exhaust ports) though to be thorough I guess I could gone with the 4 way...
> I just did a crude (no plug instead of decomp valve, tester threads were a bit long so I had to use plumbing tape) compression test and got around 130psi. Seems a touch low no? Not sure if I can give it a strong enough yank this morning.
> 
> I have only run the saw/rings in for about 5 mins max & NOT at all close to max RPM (carb needs adjustment to make sure everything is correct and the Chinese wrist pin / bearings need to be replaced with OEM) so I wonder if it's effecting it?
> 
> This is my second saw ever, the previous one is a Mac 3216 I resurrected, but I have done a ton of dirt bikes so the engine thing is not that foreign.


Mine is completely kit parts except fur champion spark plug and Husqvarna decomp valve. My cylinder had no name but in farmertec box. My compression was 145 warm after initial run. It is 150 warm after about a tank of fuel.


----------



## dmitriy

Bedford T said:


> Stihl edt9 priced right from dealer. Great pics
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Thank you, I try with pictures to give back what I can to the forum since you guys have been VERY helpful in this journey!
Do you think this Tach look VERY similar to the Stihl EDT 9?
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/984/82332/Tusk-Tach-Hour-Meter

I may try ordering that one as I had good luck with Tusk brand for motorcycle stuff.

*EDIT: *Does anyone know where to get the Stihl combi can in the US specifically CA (we have to deal with CARB )? I am leaning towards eBay?


----------



## MG porting

I'm going to post a picture of the top of both of the farmertec cylinders that I replaced and I'm pretty sure all farmertec cylinders have the same problem it will be a little bit so I'll be back. And what I will be showing you is why everyone gets a false squish measurement but don't scold me for it I'm not the one who makes them. Lol


----------



## MG porting

OK cylinder number one says farmertec on it. 
and cylinder number two has no name but both have the same issue with the nisi not going all the way across the squish band and in order to get a good squish that nisi on top needs to be mild down my meteor cylinder has nisi all the way across the squish band an it's the opposite it has to much on the inner eg of the squish band but it's doable so be careful take it from someone who fixes and port's saw's for fun you can really muster up if you're not paying attention. All us guys that port saws have been there and done that and sometimes wish that we didn't.


----------



## Bedford T

MG porting said:


> I'm going to post a picture of the top of both of the farmertec cylinders that I replaced and I'm pretty sure all farmertec cylinders have the same problem it will be a little bit so I'll be back. And what I will be showing you is why everyone gets a false squish measurement but don't scold me for it I'm not the one who makes them. Lol


Scold you for what? Only time I ever scold is when somebody does not test their saw which I think is stupid. 

It's hard to warn somebody when they just ingore you. They get something in their head and be damned. Almost every time they soon fall off because they have torn their saw up. I don't think that's funny at all. 

Show them

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Bedford T said:


> Scold you for what? Only time I ever scold is when somebody does not test their saw which I think is stupid.
> 
> It's hard to warn somebody when they just ingore you. They get something in their head and be damned. Almost every time they soon fall off because they have torn their saw up. I don't think that's funny at all.
> 
> Show them
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Lol. I think I just did show them test fit test fit it's a must.


----------



## Bedford T

i just checked paypal. there is no official HL response to my request for the product i paid them for. these people are nuts. why handle a customer in this manner? the paypal interface shows they responded but its blank. likely an underhanded trick like issuing a fake tracking number, lol. $26.43 they must be desperate to aim so high. Notice the not true tracking number. Am I the first guy to order something from them and get a fake tracking number? I had to say something. Businesses are getting away with murder. I just had a thought, maybe they are counterfeiting the sprockets and its being shipped from china and that's why its being handled like this and they have been caught so they are holding their breath. i had a very popular seller here sell me some fake rings, he acted like it got by him, I think he not that big, we need to watch our money.


----------



## diezelsmoke

Looks like a valid #


----------



## Bedford T

diezelsmoke said:


> Looks like a valid #


Why does it look valid? if you look at the fine print they never got a package. they have been notified a label was printed and a tracking number was issued. the devil is in the details.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## freddog

Just got my 660 kit powder cote nor finished. Any body else have same issues


----------



## William Prophett

freddog said:


> Just got my 660 kit powder cote nor finished. Any body else have same issues


Those sufaces have been machined. Thats how they are suppose to be.


----------



## Bedford T

There's nothing wrong there. The coating sometimes does not cover completely. You can make that metal shine by buffing it with a 120 pad. Often there will be some "corrosion" not like rust, just a dullness that the you can rub away. Build that saw.






chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

I might mention you should be sure your locator pins are drilled through so it will be easy to knock them out. It makes breaking the case open much simpler should you need to install bearings or something like it after it gets all used and crusty.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## freddog

Thank you for all the advice


----------



## freddog

Do you recommend polishing the crank case inner half's


----------



## William Prophett

freddog said:


> Do you recommend polishing the crank case inner half's


No


----------



## Bedford T

freddog said:


> Do you recommend polishing the crank case inner half's


I would where the cylinder sits. It's not required. The best mating surface possible is a reason to do it there. The interior is going to be exposed to fuel and oil and will be just fine

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> I would where the cylinder sits. It's not required. The best mating surface possible is a reason to do it there. The interior is going to be exposed to fuel and oil and will be just fine
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Very very very carefully and non invasive if he does...


----------



## ammoaddict

freddog said:


> Do you recommend polishing the crank case inner half's


I didn't.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

William Prophett said:


> Very very very carefully and non invasive if he does...


The photo I provided shows a tool that does not remove material. Were you confused?

Lot of people don't do more than slap it together and go look what I got. Others take a hard look.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

freddog said:


> Thank you for all the advice


I hope you enjoy the build. It can be challenging but it is fun. Don't be afraid to ask for help along the way. I got some good advice from some very knowledgeable people on here.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## freddog

THANK YOU Bedford T.


----------



## freddog

And all others who give advice.


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> The photo I provided shows a tool that does not remove material. Were you confused?
> 
> Lot of people don't do more than slap it together and go look what I got. Others take a hard look.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Not "confused". Some of these folks may not be as familiar with these things as we are. Don't want him to grab a wire wheel mounted on a drill and go at it. I'm trying to help him. Do we have a problem?


----------



## Bedford T

Best general advice is to approach it as a very close to oem saw, requiring a different approach because it's a little different. But in the end it's way good. Fun and man you will know a bunch when you get done. It may takes weeks before it comes together in your mind.

I was just posting in another thread and I said that kit buildersget more hands on experience that some Stihl techs because they don't get to work with many cases. So it's valid experience.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> Best general advice is to approach it as a very close to oem saw, requiring a different approach because it's a little different. But in the end it's way good. Fun and man you will know a bunch when you get done. It may takes weeks before it comes together in your mind.
> 
> I was just posting in another thread and I said that kit buildersget more hands on experience that some Stihl techs because they don't get to work with many cases. So it's valid experience.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


That's a fact! That's what can actually make these kits into GREAT saws. You have the opportunity to touch, set and fettle every piece, rather than it being "banged" together in a factory.


----------



## Bedford T

William Prophett said:


> Not "confused". Some of these folks may not be as familiar with these things as we are. Don't want him to grab a wire wheel mounted on a drill and go at it. I'm trying to help him. Do we have a problem?


I don't treat the new people like that until it comes to them not testing their saw. I show them a tool that does not look like a grinder and I don't think they will get confused. If they do then we can make fun of them.. so I guess we will see

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

I saw a YouTube of a guy restoring a saw, it was a 60's saw. Metal, he banged it apart. Literally, very hard to watch because of that. But a metal saw is sure different than what we have today. He ended up with a pretty saw

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> I don't treat the new people like that until it comes to them not testing their saw. I show them a tool that does not look like a grinder and I don't think they will get confused. If they do then we can make fun of them.. so I guess we will see
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


True. But some of these folks don't have a "machining" background or experience with every tool. Just because they have one, or can get one, doesn't mean they know how to use it nor the ramifications of messing up with it... Especially around machined sealing surfaces.... My only point was to be very careful.


----------



## mikejr

Hey guys, Iam new here, been reading up getting ready for my 660 build if it ever gets here. appreciate all the info that has been posted on this kit, should make things go alot smoother. 
I have been a auto tech for 20+ so not scared of a little chiansaw, it aint no Cadillac. But I have never been above asking for help if I have needed it. So Iam glad u guys are here helping people out.
I wouldnt mind having a repair manual to read through while iam waiting for my kit if anyone could send me one that would be great. Iam not into making videos but I will post what problems I encounter, 
and how long it takes to blow it up. lol I will be running the piss out of it!

I have been reading post from the anti clone crowd, and I have no dog in that fight, I hated watching auto parts go down hill over the years as us companys went under and more lesser quality overseas parts 
flowed in. I felt like my work ended up of lesser quality because of the parts, and it made me pissed. nevertheless the world is just different now, and I bought a chinesse saw lol!
I am wondering though in one of atfleetguys videos he shows Husqvarnas anti vibration springs that he said they had in the 90,s and now stihl has the same spring setup. so if true that is a copy. How do you guys feel about that?
This is just the nature of buisness. 

I bought one because I cut firewood and I like to tinker and play and for the price I dont care if it grenades. Iam too poor to grenade a 1200 dollar saw. Mike


----------



## ammoaddict

mikejr said:


> Hey guys, Iam new here, been reading up getting ready for my 660 build if it ever gets here. appreciate all the info that has been posted on this kit, should make things go alot smoother.
> I have been a auto tech for 20+ so not scared of a little chiansaw, it aint no Cadillac. But I have never been above asking for help if I have needed it. So Iam glad u guys are here helping people out.
> I wouldnt mind having a repair manual to read through while iam waiting for my kit if anyone could send me one that would be great. Iam not into making videos but I will post what problems I encounter,
> and how long it takes to blow it up. lol I will be running the piss out of it!
> 
> I have been reading post from the anti clone crowd, and I have no dog in that fight, I hated watching auto parts go down hill over the years as us companys went under and more lesser quality overseas parts
> flowed in. I felt like my work ended up of lesser quality because of the parts, and it made me pissed. nevertheless the world is just different now, and I bought a chinesse saw lol!
> I am wondering though in one of atfleetguys videos he shows Husqvarnas anti vibration springs that he said they had in the 90,s and now stihl has the same spring setup. so if true that is a copy. How do you guys feel about that?
> This is just the nature of buisness.
> 
> I bought one because I cut firewood and I like to tinker and play and for the price I dont care if it grenades. Iam too poor to grenade a 1200 dollar saw. Mike


Welcome to arborist site. I hope you enjoy your kit. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

mikejr said:


> Hey guys, Iam new here, been reading up getting ready for my 660 build if it ever gets here. appreciate all the info that has been posted on this kit, should make things go alot smoother.
> I have been a auto tech for 20+ so not scared of a little chiansaw, it aint no Cadillac. But I have never been above asking for help if I have needed it. So Iam glad u guys are here helping people out.
> I wouldnt mind having a repair manual to read through while iam waiting for my kit if anyone could send me one that would be great. Iam not into making videos but I will post what problems I encounter,
> and how long it takes to blow it up. lol I will be running the piss out of it!
> 
> I have been reading post from the anti clone crowd, and I have no dog in that fight, I hated watching auto parts go down hill over the years as us companys went under and more lesser quality overseas parts
> flowed in. I felt like my work ended up of lesser quality because of the parts, and it made me pissed. nevertheless the world is just different now, and I bought a chinesse saw lol!
> I am wondering though in one of atfleetguys videos he shows Husqvarnas anti vibration springs that he said they had in the 90,s and now stihl has the same spring setup. so if true that is a copy. How do you guys feel about that?
> This is just the nature of buisness.
> 
> I bought one because I cut firewood and I like to tinker and play and for the price I dont care if it grenades. Iam too poor to grenade a 1200 dollar saw. Mike


Mornin Mike. Looks like you came to the right spot for "tinkering". Yeah, the design of the anti-vibe system is very similar between the "3" series Husqvarna platform and the Stihls... The question "who was the chicken and who was the egg" might be debatable, but Walt has been working on all kinds of saws for s long time and if he says Husky had it first I don't have any reason to doubt him. Good luck with your build. MG does ALOT of tinkering and moving things around and testing... Bedford has "been there and done that" and is really good with communication with these manufacturers etc... I just build saws for work saws. Breaking a new one in now....


----------



## Bedford T

I know nothing about huskys. There is a thread of the husky kit. I would like to keep this thread about the 660. Hope you enjoy your kit.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

mikejr said:


> Hey guys, Iam new here, been reading up getting ready for my 660 build if it ever gets here. appreciate all the info that has been posted on this kit, should make things go alot smoother.
> I have been a auto tech for 20+ so not scared of a little chiansaw, it aint no Cadillac. But I have never been above asking for help if I have needed it. So Iam glad u guys are here helping people out.
> I wouldnt mind having a repair manual to read through while iam waiting for my kit if anyone could send me one that would be great. Iam not into making videos but I will post what problems I encounter,
> and how long it takes to blow it up. lol I will be running the piss out of it!
> 
> I have been reading post from the anti clone crowd, and I have no dog in that fight, I hated watching auto parts go down hill over the years as us companys went under and more lesser quality overseas parts
> flowed in. I felt like my work ended up of lesser quality because of the parts, and it made me pissed. nevertheless the world is just different now, and I bought a chinesse saw lol!
> I am wondering though in one of atfleetguys videos he shows Husqvarnas anti vibration springs that he said they had in the 90,s and now stihl has the same spring setup. so if true that is a copy. How do you guys feel about that?
> This is just the nature of buisness.
> 
> I bought one because I cut firewood and I like to tinker and play and for the price I dont care if it grenades. Iam too poor to grenade a 1200 dollar saw. Mike


Lol. Now you've more less have spoken my words. And yes on the av springs on the new Stihl saw's completely copying Husqvarna on that. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

Got the sprocket untangled. Got a refund and ordered it off eBay. Actually saved a few Penny's. No fuss when you order on eBay, you get it or they help you. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-Chai...ket-washer-and-clip-3-8-7-tooth-/321813007044

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Glad you got it straightened out

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

You must live in big timber country if you need a 660 for firewood. Here in NC, 95 percent of the firewood saws are in the 50 to 60 cc range. I got mine because of CAD (chainsaw addiction disorder) that I acquired when I joined arborist site. I told myself I was going to use it for Milling, so I had to order a mill. I need to stop talking myself into things, but I'm just too easy I guess.


mikejr said:


> Hey guys, Iam new here, been reading up getting ready for my 660 build if it ever gets here. appreciate all the info that has been posted on this kit, should make things go alot smoother.
> I have been a auto tech for 20+ so not scared of a little chiansaw, it aint no Cadillac. But I have never been above asking for help if I have needed it. So Iam glad u guys are here helping people out.
> I wouldnt mind having a repair manual to read through while iam waiting for my kit if anyone could send me one that would be great. Iam not into making videos but I will post what problems I encounter,
> and how long it takes to blow it up. lol I will be running the piss out of it!
> 
> I have been reading post from the anti clone crowd, and I have no dog in that fight, I hated watching auto parts go down hill over the years as us companys went under and more lesser quality overseas parts
> flowed in. I felt like my work ended up of lesser quality because of the parts, and it made me pissed. nevertheless the world is just different now, and I bought a chinesse saw lol!
> I am wondering though in one of atfleetguys videos he shows Husqvarnas anti vibration springs that he said they had in the 90,s and now stihl has the same spring setup. so if true that is a copy. How do you guys feel about that?
> This is just the nature of buisness.
> 
> I bought one because I cut firewood and I like to tinker and play and for the price I dont care if it grenades. Iam too poor to grenade a 1200 dollar saw. Mike



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

I went in to pickup some circlips 12mm I had ordered. The guy was unboxing a 251, a nice looking saw. They had no large saws on display. There is about 5 dealers close to me and some have an 880 or up to a 661. Mostly smaller saws.

The wood boss had a white handle, kinda caught me off guard.

I put my 070 up on my work bench today. I took top off to start. That is a big saw. 660 is much easier to handle. Every fella is born with CAD

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## William Prophett

Just got done milling today with "the twins". The new one is still set just a tad fat but cleans up really nice during the cut. The 36" Stihl yellow sticker bar really holds on to the oil well. Stays in the rail really nicely. I have the HO pump on my first 660 and one thing that I can say is that the pump "wore in" and puts out more oil now than it did new. Not really sure why, but it is working better. I still have the kit pump in the new saw and it's getting replaced tomorrow. It's using half as much oil as the HO. The first saw has the kit carb and the new saw has the Walbro wj-76. The kit carb on the first saw is flawless, but the kit carb that came with the second saw sucked. Didn't tune at all... The high screw kept moving and the low screw was really lagging. I'd move it and the saw would take forever to adjust. I instantly grabbed a Walbro and it tuned perfectly. Both saws are running the 56mm with the gasket and 1184... Both saws are absolute stump pullers.


----------



## Canyon Angler

ammoaddict said:


> You must live in big timber country if you need a 660 for firewood.



That's just crazy talk. Since when does "need" enter the equation??? Where are your values?


----------



## Bedford T

Canyon Angler said:


> That's just crazy talk. Since when does "need" enter the equation??? Where are your values?


I got a real love for these machines. A wonderful affliction

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## MG porting

Well I got bored today so although I got my first ms660 pretty much where I want it I have my second 660 that I'm still messing with need a lot of parts for it but mean wile I've got three farmertec cylinders so I took the one I believe is the best one out the pick nothing compared to my meteor on my running saw but never the less with the port work I'd did on this cylinder I figured this one was a good one but I showed you guys the problem these cylinders have on the squish band area so I did some fixing on this one and I'm very pleased with the result.


----------



## mikejr

ammoaddict said:


> You must live in big timber country if you need a 660 for firewood. Here in NC, 95 percent of the firewood saws are in the 50 to 60 cc range. I got mine because of CAD (chainsaw addiction disorder) that I acquired when I joined arborist site. I told myself I was going to use it for Milling, so I had to order a mill. I need to stop talking myself into things, but I'm just too easy I guess.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Nah not exactly big timber country, cleaning fence rows on the farm and we have alot of good sized thorn trees. Them puppies are some hard cuttin but good firewood and I aint got time to fart around so go big or go home I say. Tracking says my beast is in customs, not sure how long that takes but iam ready to get things rollin.


----------



## ammoaddict

It shouldn't take too long. 10-15 days from placing order is what I hear from most people.


mikejr said:


> Nah not exactly big timber country, cleaning fence rows on the farm and we have alot of good sized thorn trees. Them puppies are some hard cuttin but good firewood and I aint got time to fart around so go big or go home I say. Tracking says my beast is in customs, not sure how long that takes but iam ready to get things rollin.



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> It shouldn't take too long. 10-15 days from placing order is what I hear from most people.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Customs is taking longer, maybe a few days. You have two sides to customs. Us/ Chinese. Separate processes.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

According to track and trace, mine was in customs for 4 days.


Bedford T said:


> Customs is taking longer, maybe a few days. You have two sides to customs. Us/ Chinese. Separate processes.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> According to track and trace, mine was in customs for 4 days.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Which one

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

The husky kit. The 660 kit came in 3 days from NJ.


Bedford T said:


> Which one
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> The husky kit. The 660 kit came in 3 days from NJ.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


We were talking customs? On this side that happens in NY I think.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> We were talking customs? On this side that happens in NY I think.
> 
> 
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Yes, the husky kit said customs clearance is completed. Next line says "shipment in transit at Maspeth, NY. Thanks for your waiting"
What I was saying about the 660 kit was it arrived at my house 3 days after I placed the order. It was shipped from NJ.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

mikejr said:


> Nah not exactly big timber country, cleaning fence rows on the farm and we have alot of good sized thorn trees. Them puppies are some hard cuttin but good firewood and I aint got time to fart around so go big or go home I say. Tracking says my beast is in customs, not sure how long that takes but iam ready to get things rollin.


Yep, nothing wrong with big. I'm just getting too old for big saws. But I still like them. Don't get in too big of a hurry building it. Take your time on the crank and case halves and piston and cylinder. After that is just like putting a puzzle together.
Have you given any thought about how your going to install the crank?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## mikejr

ammoaddict said:


> Yep, nothing wrong with big. I'm just getting too old for big saws. But I still like them. Don't get in too big of a hurry building it. Take your time on the crank and case halves and piston and cylinder. After that is just like putting a puzzle together.
> Have you given any thought about how your going to install the crank?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Yeh Iam getting to old also, but all Iam going to do with it is chunk the logs up. I'll haul it to the log in the skid loader bucket, pick log up with my excavator and chunk it up. I aint packin that lug around anywhere. hopefully I dont have to buy something to pick the saw up and sit it on the log lol. I think I may put some heat in it and put it in my press. That walt guy pressed one together cold, Ive pressed lots of bearings and stuff, shouldn't be a problem. I know about the tools being made and they do look handy, but I dont think they are necessary, but we'll see when I get the kit and look it over.


----------



## Timbo74

Good work on this thread Bedford T. I am thinking about ordering the 440 kit, as I in no way need a 90cc saw, but I could use a 70cc. I have never built, or worked too much on saws before, but I do a lot of work on lawn mowers. I plan to watch your building videos, before I get too far ahead of myself. Have you ever built the 440 kit? What all parts would I want to go with oem?


----------



## ammoaddict

mikejr said:


> Yeh Iam getting to old also, but all Iam going to do with it is chunk the logs up. I'll haul it to the log in the skid loader bucket, pick log up with my excavator and chunk it up. I aint packin that lug around anywhere. hopefully I dont have to buy something to pick the saw up and sit it on the log lol. I think I may put some heat in it and put it in my press. That walt guy pressed one together cold, Ive pressed lots of bearings and stuff, shouldn't be a problem. I know about the tools being made and they do look handy, but I dont think they are necessary, but we'll see when I get the kit and look it over.


Sounds like you got it going.
I cut some spacers from plastic piping that fit the inner bearing races and used the flywheel nut and the clutch to pull them with s 1/4" impact driver.
Worked very well. No heat, no cold.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## mikejr

Were the threads on the crank long enough to get it started and pull it through in 1 pull? You used the clutch assy for a nut? Will my tracking number work all the way are does it get changed after customs? been tracking it through SF express so far


----------



## ammoaddict

No, you have to take it off and add spacers several times, but with the small impact it's pretty fast just zip, zip. Plus it gives you a chance to look and make sure it's going well. 
Yes I used the clutch for a nut same as the flywheel nut. I had no left hand nut and no fine thread for the flywheel side, so I used what I had. It's alot faster than making the tools if you are just going to do one saw.
My tracking stopped in Maryland. Then I got an email from UPS with a delivery date. You can sign up for that with FedEx as well if you haven't already.


mikejr said:


> Were the threads on the crank long enough to get it started and pull it through in 1 pull? You used the clutch assy for a nut? Will my tracking number work all the way are does it get changed after customs? been tracking it through SF express so far



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

Timbo74 said:


> Good work on this thread Bedford T. I am thinking about ordering the 440 kit, as I in no way need a 90cc saw, but I could use a 70cc. I have never built, or worked too much on saws before, but I do a lot of work on lawn mowers. I plan to watch your building videos, before I get too far ahead of myself. Have you ever built the 440 kit? What all parts would I want to go with oem?


Thanks.

I like the 440. It's a good kit. Look at my website for tips on what to change. I learned it's best to maintain a reference so you can get the info you need when you need it. It's in my footer. I also started a thread on the 440 and have some build videos. The 660 case assembly videos are more up to date. The professional saw cases assembly are alike. Things like brake are different and setting up the oil pump. You need a manual, watch the videos. Mittysupply.com will have a carb. If you don't see it ask. It should be there and the tools needed are also on the website. Doing the testing is very important. I just did a testing video on the 660, it excatly the same, same tools.
Welcome and good luck, we are here for you

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## dmitriy

Bedford T said:


> Mittysupply.com will have a carb.



I forget if there was a reason you can't just change the main jet instead of the whole carb? (I bought mine from mittysupply)


----------



## dmitriy

Got the tach, no need for a coil wrap either!! (Seems to work same as the stihl one) A little 3M dual lock and it's on there. Gotta pick up the wrist pin / bearing and swap those & fuel cap plus put down some heat shielding


----------



## Bedford T

dmitriy said:


> Got the tach, no need for a coil wrap either!! (Seems to work same as the stihl one) A little 3M dual lock and it's on there. Gotta pick up the wrist pin / bearing and swap those & fuel cap plus put down some heat shielding


How would you know it works like the Stihl. It's shaped like the Stihl. That is all we know besides it's cheaper. Does "no need", mean a wire was not included?

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

dmitriy said:


> I forget if there was a reason you can't just change the main jet instead of the whole carb? (I bought mine from mittysupply)


Why would you want to change the jet, you want to starve it of fuel. It can be changed. It's the right jet for this saw. Walbro wj76 Carb is ready to go after tuning.

Only difference in 67 or 69 is the jet size. Delivering much less oil/fuel. Think of the carb as the engine oiler

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## dmitriy

Bedford T said:


> How would you know it works like the Stihl. It's shaped like the Stihl. That is all we know besides it's cheaper. Does "no need", mean a wire was not included?



The wire was included but I didn't use it since the chainsaw spark plug / wire are close enough to the tach for the magnetic field to work. It has a resettable max RPM history as well as ability to switch for different ignition types. Refresh rate of about 1 second and judging by this video works about the same. But I don't have a stihl to compare to obviously.



Bedford T said:


> Why would you want to change the jet, you want to starve it of fuel. It can be changed. It's the right jet for this saw. Walbro wj76 Carb is ready to go after tuning.
> 
> Only difference in 67 or 69 is the jet size. Delivering much less oil/fuel. Think of the carb as the engine oiler



So originally my thought was to use the FarmerTec KIT carb and just make the main jet in that larger - to deliver more fuel, BUT I totally had a brain fart and forgot that those carbs might actually have a different 'throat' size and the 76 will actually let more air in as well as more fuel. Anyhow the point is moot as I got my carb from mittysupply (heck it arrived before the saw even did )

So far 1/2 a tank. need to go find some wood.


----------



## Bedford T

On back William Prophett mentioned we should be mindful of the nylon bumper behind the bar plate lifting it off the case and causing a mess and less oil on the chain.

I was putting my new rim kit and as it sat on the bench I saw the bumper behind it. Now I installed it. It did lift it up slightly. 

So I think what it is, it is suppose to be there, it's just that the aftermarket is slightly thicker. I will test that theory with a oem and see if it lays flat.

Devil is the the details, I was holding saw so you don't see the slight gap but it's there


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> On back William Prophet mentioned we should be mindful of the nylon bumper behind the bar plate lifting it off the case and causing a mess and less oil on the chain.
> 
> I was putting my new rim kit and as it sat on the bench I saw the bumper behind it. Now I installed it. It did lift it up slightly.
> 
> So I think what it is, it is suppose to be there, it's just that the aftermarket is slightly thicker. I will test that theory with a oem and see if it lays flat.
> 
> Devil is the the details, I was holding saw so you don't see the slight gap but it's there


You could definately sand it down so that the bar plate sits flat. And, it definitely has an "installation point" cast into the case like you said. Kinda looks to me like it would only serve a purpose if you didn't have the bar plate installed. There are a lot of saws that don't have the plate, but this particular saw really needs the plate to encapsulate the tensioner guts.


----------



## Bedford T

I am a kit builder and I adhere strictly to Stihl practice adjusted for differences created by it being a copy. Example, bad advice to use a 17 squish on an Farmertec cylinder, not because of the cylinder but because of the main bearing under it. So it's easy, very easy, to get bad advice on our kits on a wide range of matters. Not that the advice is untrue with a original saw. But that's not what we are building. So when they indicate something I go along with it. I am not, nor should anybody else try and reinvent the chainsaw. We have a road map. It's best to follow it.

I installed it because on every edition of the 066 or 660 that I have paperwork on and I think I have them all, there was a bar plate and it looked to support the plate from underneath. Actually shielding the nylon stop.

So now I wonder if the nylon piece interfered simply by being thicker. And that is precisely what makes this so much fun. Yes you can cut it, sand it, pound it. But you have to compare it to an oem first to determine if it is in fact the cause.

Or you can just slap it together and never look at it closely. I fall in the look at it closely camp. Know and understand. The case is one of their better reproductions. Only one maybe two flaws so far. The chain adjuster which was a major screwup and maybe the locator pin exit hole (maybe that was on the 440 only)

We will see.


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> I am a kit builder and I adhere strictly to Stihl practice adjusted for differences created by it being a copy. Example, bad advice to use a 17 squish on an Farmertec cylinder, not because of the cylinder but because of the main bearing under it. So it's easy, very easy, to get bad advice on our kits on a wide range of matters. Not that the advice is untrue with a original saw. But that's not what we are building. So when they indicate something I go along with it. I am not, nor should anybody else try and reinvent the chainsaw. We have a road map. It's best to follow it.
> 
> I installed it because on every edition of the 066 or 660 that I have paperwork on and I think I have them all, there was a bar plate and it looked to support the plate from underneath. Actually shielding the nylon stop.
> 
> So now I wonder if the nylon piece interfered simply by being thicker. And that is precisely what makes this so much fun. Yes you can cut it, sand it, pound it. But you have to compare it to an oem first to determine if it is in fact the cause.
> 
> Or you can just slap it together and never look at it closely. I fall in the look at it closely camp. Know and understand. The case is one of their better reproductions. Only one maybe two flaws so far. The chain adjuster which was a major screwup and maybe the locator pin exit hole (maybe that was on the 440 only)
> 
> We will see.


While I hear what you're saying, if a person wants to build a saw that functions properly, you just don't "put it in because there is one on an OEM Stihl" if it doesn't work. The nylon guide is too thick to let the plate seat. You need to figure out how to deal with it. I don't really care "how" you do it, but the plate needs to sit flat against the case or bar oil won't all go into the bar. So "to each his own", but all my saws function perfectly. All my saws are "work saws" and that's not just the 660 clones. These aren't "play saws" or "ebay sale" saws. If you want the oiler to put the oil in the bar, the plate needs to seat around the oil journal with no gaps.... The engineering behind a nylon chain guide is such that it can rub/guide the chain without damaging the chain and not allowing the chain to damage the case. This nylon guide is not in a position to do that with the plate installed.


----------



## Bedford T

Well bless your little heart. I hate I hurt your feelings. Really. 

Attached are photos of a FarmerTec nylon guide and a Stihl one. For everyone else but William notice the thickness. The huztl is thicker and would push the plate up. The Stihl nylon would still support the metal plate but not lift it.








chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> Well bless your little heart. I hate I hurt your feelings. Really.
> 
> Attached are photos of a FarmerTec nylon guide and a Stihl one. For everyone else but William notice the thickness. The huztl is thicker and would push the plate up. The Stihl nylon would still support the metal plate but not lift it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


"Hurt my feelings"? Are you brain damaged? I'm agreeing with you. I don't care how you fix it, it needs to be fixed. Christ, the other day you were telling some guy on here that "problems need to be fixed and that's what the kit is about. So, what would be your suggestion as to fix it? So far, all your answers are "throw some more OEM parts in it"... These guys are looking for a functional/cheap saw... At some point, it's gonna cost more to complete the saw than it costs Stihl. You would buy an OEM nylon chain guide over a few thousandths of an inch, when you could just rub it on a piece of sandpaper a couple times or just leave it out!? Man bro, you really need to chill. I know this is "your" thread, but I thought we were trying to all get together to solve potential problems...


----------



## Marco

Get's to be like the story about stone soup.


----------



## ammoaddict

mikejr said:


> Hey guys, Iam new here, been reading up getting ready for my 660 build if it ever gets here. appreciate all the info that has been posted on this kit, should make things go alot smoother.
> I have been a auto tech for 20+ so not scared of a little chiansaw, it aint no Cadillac. But I have never been above asking for help if I have needed it. So Iam glad u guys are here helping people out.
> I wouldnt mind having a repair manual to read through while iam waiting for my kit if anyone could send me one that would be great. Iam not into making videos but I will post what problems I encounter,
> and how long it takes to blow it up. lol I will be running the piss out of it!
> 
> I have been reading post from the anti clone crowd, and I have no dog in that fight, I hated watching auto parts go down hill over the years as us companys went under and more lesser quality overseas parts
> flowed in. I felt like my work ended up of lesser quality because of the parts, and it made me pissed. nevertheless the world is just different now, and I bought a chinesse saw lol!
> I am wondering though in one of atfleetguys videos he shows Husqvarnas anti vibration springs that he said they had in the 90,s and now stihl has the same spring setup. so if true that is a copy. How do you guys feel about that?
> This is just the nature of buisness.
> 
> I bought one because I cut firewood and I like to tinker and play and for the price I dont care if it grenades. Iam too poor to grenade a 1200 dollar saw. Mike


Did you get your kit yet?


----------



## mikejr

Yeh I got it. Looks pretty good. Put the cylinder on last night with no gasket to check the squish and she hits the top and stops, measured the gasket .022
I havn't checked it with the gasket installed yet but with some rough measuring she looks to be tight boys!
Is there another company that makes a thicker gasket?


----------



## William Prophett

mikejr said:


> Yeh I got it. Looks pretty good. Put the cylinder on last night with no gasket to check the squish and she hits the top and stops, measured the gasket .022
> I havn't checked it with the gasket installed yet but with some rough measuring she looks to be tight boys!
> Is there another company that makes a thicker gasket?


What are your port timing numbers with the gasket installed?


----------



## ammoaddict

mikejr said:


> Yeh I got it. Looks pretty good. Put the cylinder on last night with no gasket to check the squish and she hits the top and stops, measured the gasket .022
> I havn't checked it with the gasket installed yet but with some rough measuring she looks to be tight boys!
> Is there another company that makes a thicker gasket?


Wow, mine was .035 without a gasket. I didn't try it with it.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## golddredgergold

ammoaddict said:


> Wow, mine was .035 without a gasket. I didn't try it with it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk




Same for me .037 no gasket. I squared it up on the lathe. Took a little off at .031 no gasket just yamabond #4.


----------



## mikejr

Worked on the pig tonight, put it together with the gasket on, checked 4 spots had .024 on 2 and .025 on 2. So I put it together, thats strange everybody else is ok with no gasket. 
cylinder looked pretty good maby somebody had a brain fart on mine. Almost done with it, had to order decomp plug so I can leak test it, probly be next week before I get that.

Case was really nice, bearings were smooth, seals looked and felt fine, gasket looked like a gasket, should be fine, brake spring was wrong, fuel cap came with a O ring installed, 
sprocket has Stihl name on it, rubber parts look good to me, yeh they dont look and feel like stihl but they look like they will be just fine, throttle plate on carb looks like a big leaky toilet,
choke lever and trigger are garbage, it wont have a fast idle, plastic is nice looks like decent quality. I personally don't like that the screws came pre applied with loctite,
I didnt have any problems but fine threads tiny screws that dryed up crap can ball up and make them go in tight, just makes test fitting a pain in the ass, I prefer to apply my own. 
Case went together like butter stuck crank in freezer heat gun case to almost 200 floped right in, prepared press stuck case half with crank in freezer
waved the heat gun around the case just fer a min it was a touch over 100 the case halves fell together with my hands to within a 1/4 inch finished in the press 
and that took NO effort what so ever. could have lightly tapped it with hammer and socket and seated it.

I know some of you already know this stuff, Iam just telling my thoughts about the kit. Mike


----------



## ammoaddict

mikejr said:


> Worked on the pig tonight, put it together with the gasket on, checked 4 spots had .024 on 2 and .025 on 2. So I put it together, thats strange everybody else is ok with no gasket.
> cylinder looked pretty good maby somebody had a brain fart on mine. Almost done with it, had to order decomp plug so I can leak test it, probly be next week before I get that.
> 
> Case was really nice, bearings were smooth, seals looked and felt fine, gasket looked like a gasket, should be fine, brake spring was wrong, fuel cap came with a O ring installed,
> sprocket has Stihl name on it, rubber parts look good to me, yeh they dont look and feel like stihl but they look like they will be just fine, throttle plate on carb looks like a big leaky toilet,
> choke lever and trigger are garbage, it wont have a fast idle, plastic is nice looks like decent quality. I personally don't like that the screws came pre applied with loctite,
> I didnt have any problems but fine threads tiny screws that dryed up crap can ball up and make them go in tight, just makes test fitting a pain in the ass, I prefer to apply my own.
> Case went together like butter stuck crank in freezer heat gun case to almost 200 floped right in, prepared press stuck case half with crank in freezer
> waved the heat gun around the case just fer a min it was a touch over 100 the case halves fell together with my hands to within a 1/4 inch finished in the press
> and that took NO effort what so ever. could have lightly tapped it with hammer and socket and seated it.
> 
> I know some of you already know this stuff, Iam just telling my thoughts about the kit. Mike


That is strange. Did your cylinder have a name on it? Mine had no name but was in a farmertec box. I was disappointed that I had .035 squish with NO gasket.
I just started on the 365/372 kit and its the same way. .032 .033 .035 .036 with NO gasket. I don't think I will be buying anymore of these kits.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## mikejr

ammoaddict said:


> That is strange. Did your cylinder have a name on it? Mine had no name but was in a farmertec box. I was disappointed that I had .035 squish with NO gasket.
> I just started on the 365/372 kit and its the same way. .032 .033 .035 .036 with NO gasket. I don't think I will be buying anymore of these kits.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



Nope had no names on it anywhere. had a squigly line marking in combustion chamber thats it.

I got my plug and done a leak test it failed, cylinder gasket leaked. Took it off and put it on a glass table and I could rock it just a touch, wet sanded it with 600 paper on the table until it was clean, put it back on and it held pressure and vacuum. checked squish now have .019 .020 Finished the build and the pig started on the forth pull, couldn't believe it. Put a new 25 inch bar and chain on it today and laid her in a thorn tree stump I had lying around that was cut off and holy crap the pig is an absolute Beast!!! I dont even know what to say, not sure how long she will live but for what little money it cost this thing will flat out eat wood.....

I really didnt run into any major issues, so far only thing I have replaced is the brake spring, compression release valve, couldn't have put it in if I wanted to the little hood above the nut part was bigger then the nut, you cant get a socket to the nut. If they dont look at some of this crap they might as well not waist the money to make it, but whatever, and I ordered the switch lever and trigger. I do have some slack in between the clutch drum and e clip that I dont really like, quess we'll see how that holds up. I had to file some on the side of the screw that holds the bar plate on cause the bar hit it, brake handle hit muffler, dremiled that, the upper cover hole for the spark plug needed some clearance made so you can get a socket on the plug, didnt come with nuts for the bumber spikes (had some in my shop) I dont know what they were thinking with that little ass air cleaner stud but it barely made it through the air cleaner, I had a bolt that was longer and cut the head off (fixed), sanded the bumper strip down so the bar plate sit flat like was talked about earlier, wish they would have gave a little more clearance for the plug wire where it comes out of the coil and hits the case. I think thats about it pretty simple deal. If they would address the few little issues they would have a real winner, that is if you can get a fair amount of use out of one before it explodes. Mike


----------



## Marco

I wish I could just drop everything and run the one I put together, but hay need's to be made, tractors need to be fixed and rain dances need to be performed. 
The multi control lever work better than most Stihls I run into, carb that comes with it is fine. I really don't know what more to ask of it.


----------



## ammoaddict

mikejr said:


> Nope had no names on it anywhere. had a squigly line marking in combustion chamber thats it.
> 
> I got my plug and done a leak test it failed, cylinder gasket leaked. Took it off and put it on a glass table and I could rock it just a touch, wet sanded it with 600 paper on the table until it was clean, put it back on and it held pressure and vacuum. checked squish now have .019 .020 Finished the build and the pig started on the forth pull, couldn't believe it. Put a new 25 inch bar and chain on it today and laid her in a thorn tree stump I had lying around that was cut off and holy crap the pig is an absolute Beast!!! I dont even know what to say, not sure how long she will live but for what little money it cost this thing will flat out eat wood.....
> 
> I really didnt run into any major issues, so far only thing I have replaced is the brake spring, compression release valve, couldn't have put it in if I wanted to the little hood above the nut part was bigger then the nut, you cant get a socket to the nut. If they dont look at some of this crap they might as well not waist the money to make it, but whatever, and I ordered the switch lever and trigger. I do have some slack in between the clutch drum and e clip that I dont really like, quess we'll see how that holds up. I had to file some on the side of the screw that holds the bar plate on cause the bar hit it, brake handle hit muffler, dremiled that, the upper cover hole for the spark plug needed some clearance made so you can get a socket on the plug, didnt come with nuts for the bumber spikes (had some in my shop) I dont know what they were thinking with that little ass air cleaner stud but it barely made it through the air cleaner, I had a bolt that was longer and cut the head off (fixed), sanded the bumper strip down so the bar plate sit flat like was talked about earlier, wish they would have gave a little more clearance for the plug wire where it comes out of the coil and hits the case. I think thats about it pretty simple deal. If they would address the few little issues they would have a real winner, that is if you can get a fair amount of use out of one before it explodes. Mike


Congrats on your new saw.
It's crazy how these kits are so inconsistent from one to the other. My brake was right I guess, because it all went together and worked without any modifications. My decomp flew apart after 5 or 6 starts. Fuel cap leaked badly. No fast idle. I didn't have all the spike hardware either. The large squish is my biggest complaint. Oh and the chain tensioner locks up. Gonna have to do something about that. 
Mine fired on the 4th pull and ran on the 6th. I couldn't believe it either. It doesn't crank that well now. Usually 7 or 8 pulls to fire and 2 or 3 more to run.
We will have to see how long they last. Mine won't see much use except for occasional milling.
Are you going to build another?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

These kits are great. You all should know by now you have to change things to get them to run act and last like a real one. But you don't. You rather complain about the cylinder when lots of people say they lack. And there is more to it than it sitting flat. Most will damage your crank now, if you use it. There has been photos and conversation. You just buy a good one.

They produce cylinders for other manufacturers and when they need more they use them so you will not always get a FarmerTec branded one. A FarmerTec cylinder used to mean it would work just rough as heck. Now for some reason they all seem to share similar problems.

Then you got a saw that you built and will last. 

Good on you Mike for testing your saw! Now break it in.  and pull the cylinder back off after a couple tanks and look at the damage. See too much if your crank is being affected. Then buy you a better cylinder. 

They might have produced million cylinder with these flaws and the way it works you buy them all and they will build more and try not to let it happen again, lol But most of the parts work fine besides the list I made to help everyone

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

I would say these kits are GOOD, not great. IF every part in the kit performed as it should, I would say they are great. They call it a complete repair parts kit for a certain saw, yet there are parts in it that are completely unusable. I know it comes in a kit but I pay for every single part of that kit. IF I go to the auto parts and buy a carburetor kit for my old truck, I expect every piece in that kit to work. I dont expect to get part way through the rebuild and find a bad part and have to go to the dealership and buy another part. Granted most of the parts are pretty good but some are not so good and some are complete junk. (like the decomp valve). I know these parts are cheap but that is no excuse for them not to work. For instance the gas cap in my kit leaked like crazy. I ordered a gas and oil cap set on ebay from china for $3.53 delivered and it does not leak a drop. I looked up the gas and oil cap on Huztl website and it would cost $5.25 to my door. I dont have a problem with having to slightly modify something to get it to work such as grinding of a sharp edge or filing here and there, but paying for a part that is completely useless, I do have a problem with that.
I did enjoy building this kit and I learned alot and the saw does run pretty good. I even ordered the Husqvarna kit that I am working on now. It has some of the same crappy parts in it as well. All in all I will say they are good kits but they have some improving to do before they are great. If they get to that point I may order another but for now I will just stick with what I have.


----------



## Bedford T

I repeat great kits.

Kits require additional parts. The thread is full of this information and reference to excatly what's required. Make the commitment and you wind up with a great saw too and a lot of knowledge.

Debbie Downers won't change that. 

It would take the whole village to get them to care. People don't have the will so until each person makes them make it right...

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## mikejr

[
Are you going to build another?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

Not sure, I would like to but it would be a smaller one if I did, unless the 660 blows up and scraps the whole saw lol. Gotta have a 660 after running this beast.
I replaced the selector switch and trigger tonight and that fixed the fast idle started on the third pull. I didnt have any fuel leakage from my cap or oil cap.

Bedford T dont take this the wrong way but I just dont understand you, I haven't been complaining. you have posted that you would like people to post what they have encountered with there build to keep track of the progression of quality of the kits or whats falling behind. I thought it was great to find this thread that had more information on this kit then I had time to read, so I thought I would take the time and post my thoughts and issues I had with the kit. They were probably the same issues as everyone else has had, but is that not what you wanted? I may have dreamt this but I dont think so, you posted that the hutzl people read this forum, so if they do wouldn't there be a better chance of them fixing things by reading the complaints than not hearing anything at all? I doubt it but you get my point right? You have obviously went out of your way to help people, and Iam sure people are grateful but that gratitude is lost when you reply that people are whiners and complainers. You posted that you dont like that people come on here then there gone and you never get any information on how there saw is holding up, belittling people has that result. That will probably be me to. No Iam not butthurt either. For me this kit was a experiment I wanted to see the parts and the quality and if they will hold up, I know everyone has done this but I haven't. Knowledge comes from doing things yourself and finding out what works and what dont. Reading what others have encountered does help and really makes you look extra at that area, unless that area is complete garbage Iam going to test it and try to brake it. So you see I do know that there was part issues with this kit beforehand, Iam still going to test it for my own curiosity. And no Iam not going to take my cylinder off after 2 tanks, I'll take it off when it brakes. I also didnt brake my saw in unless you consider wide open in some wood as breaking it in. So I would think someone here would be at least a little curious as to how my junk is going to hold up. But if your gonna tell me that I dont know, Iam a complainer, there's more to a engine then just a flat head, Iam gone. People not everyone you cross paths with in this world are idiots, Iam crazy but no idiot, well maby Iam for writing all this.

One last thing a tip maby you know about could have been posted I dont know, but for the ones that chose to remove there cylinders every week to measure there piston wear, gasket remover in a spray can, I spray a little puddle on something then take a small brush and apply it to the sealer wait a couple min and motoseal will wipe right off with a rag. Not sure about other sealers, but I assume it has the same affect. Later Mike


----------



## dswensen

[/QUOTE]
Bedford T dont take this the wrong way but I just dont understand you, I haven't been complaining. you have posted that you would like people to post what they have encountered with there build to keep track of the progression of quality of the kits or whats falling behind. I thought it was great to find this thread that had more information on this kit then I had time to read, so I thought I would take the time and post my thoughts and issues I had with the kit. They were probably the same issues as everyone else has had, but is that not what you wanted? I may have dreamt this but I dont think so, you posted that the hutzl people read this forum, so if they do wouldn't there be a better chance of them fixing things by reading the complaints than not hearing anything at all? I doubt it but you get my point right? You have obviously went out of your way to help people, and Iam sure people are grateful but that gratitude is lost when you reply that people are whiners and complainers. You posted that you dont like that people come on here then there gone and you never get any information on how there saw is holding up, belittling people has that result. That will probably be me to. No Iam not butthurt either. For me this kit was a experiment I wanted to see the parts and the quality and if they will hold up, I know everyone has done this but I haven't. Knowledge comes from doing things yourself and finding out what works and what dont. Reading what others have encountered does help and really makes you look extra at that area, unless that area is complete garbage Iam going to test it and try to brake it. So you see I do know that there was part issues with this kit beforehand, Iam still going to test it for my own curiosity. And no Iam not going to take my cylinder off after 2 tanks, I'll take it off when it brakes. I also didnt brake my saw in unless you consider wide open in some wood as breaking it in. So I would think someone here would be at least a little curious as to how my junk is going to hold up. But if your gonna tell me that I dont know, Iam a complainer, there's more to a engine then just a flat head, Iam gone. People not everyone you cross paths with in this world are idiots, Iam crazy but no idiot, well maby Iam for writing all this.
[/QUOTE]

Oh don't worry, he'll take it the wrong way. He is a wealth of knowledge on these kits, and has done an incredible amount of work to help others - that comes out in most of his posts. But what also comes out (for me) is that he is very inconsistent in his attitude. I have built several of these kits and have found some work arounds that haven't even been discussed here. Will I post 'em? Maybe someday - but not today. Don't need the grief from either of the two self-proclaimed "experts" in previous pages.

The message here for others coming to this tread is that there is (as always on forums) a lot of OPINION on this thread that is offered as FACT. There is usually a few ways to "skin the cat" here - your way might be better or worse than advice given here. But in the end, most of what is offered is just that - opinion and/or advice. Take it or leave it - it's your kit - do it the way you want to.


----------



## Bedford T

Bedford T dont take this the wrong way but I just dont understand you, I haven't been complaining. you have posted that you would like people to post what they have encountered with there build to keep track of the progression of quality of the kits or whats falling behind. I thought it was great to find this thread that had more information on this kit then I had time to read, so I thought I would take the time and post my thoughts and issues I had with the kit. They were probably the same issues as everyone else has had, but is that not what you wanted? I may have dreamt this but I dont think so, you posted that the hutzl people read this forum, so if they do wouldn't there be a better chance of them fixing things by reading the complaints than not hearing anything at all? I doubt it but you get my point right? You have obviously went out of your way to help people, and Iam sure people are grateful but that gratitude is lost when you reply that people are whiners and complainers. You posted that you dont like that people come on here then there gone and you never get any information on how there saw is holding up, belittling people has that result. That will probably be me to. No Iam not butthurt either. For me this kit was a experiment I wanted to see the parts and the quality and if they will hold up, I know everyone has done this but I haven't. Knowledge comes from doing things yourself and finding out what works and what dont. Reading what others have encountered does help and really makes you look extra at that area, unless that area is complete garbage Iam going to test it and try to brake it. So you see I do know that there was part issues with this kit beforehand, Iam still going to test it for my own curiosity. And no Iam not going to take my cylinder off after 2 tanks, I'll take it off when it brakes. I also didnt brake my saw in unless you consider wide open in some wood as breaking it in. So I would think someone here would be at least a little curious as to how my junk is going to hold up. But if your gonna tell me that I dont know, Iam a complainer, there's more to a engine then just a flat head, Iam gone. People not everyone you cross paths with in this world are idiots, Iam crazy but no idiot, well maby Iam for writing all this.
[/QUOTE]

Oh don't worry, he'll take it the wrong way. He is a wealth of knowledge on these kits, and has done an incredible amount of work to help others - that comes out in most of his posts. But what also comes out (for me) is that he is very inconsistent in his attitude. I have built several of these kits and have found some work arounds that haven't even been discussed here. Will I post 'em? Maybe someday - but not today. Don't need the grief from either of the two self-proclaimed "experts" in previous pages.

The message here for others coming to this tread is that there is (as always on forums) a lot of OPINION on this thread that is offered as FACT. There is usually a few ways to "skin the cat" here - your way might be better or worse than advice given here. But in the end, most of what is offered is just that - opinion and/or advice. Take it or leave it - it's your kit - do it the way you want to.[/QUOTE]It's real simple. The kits are great and the thread is full of stuff that is wrong with them. So does that change anything today. No.

They do read and don't seem to care. Reading is not the same thing as holding them accountable during the transaction when it counts, that would bring about change.

You need to take time to understand the differences in the context of my comment, because stuff has changed over time and so have my comments.

You buy a kit and have fun, you learn. To whin about a leaking cap at this point when no one makes them accountable seems fruitless.

I get tired of reading folks that are disappointed over something that should have known about going in.

If everyone had a problem, reported it as I laid out and did not negotiate the nonsense would stop. They don't

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

I enjoy helping people. I enjoy seeing other people be successful at something maybe they have never done before.

It's painful to see the same things happen nover and over. That's where I am. If we have a problem let's solve it. Not ***** about it. Posting about your issues as you encounter them if others have had the seen ones. Are we learning something new, are we figuring out a solution.

For me it's been buy an oem part. Our new problem seems to be the cylinders. Meteor seems to make a great one. So while you make huztl correct it buy you a good one and don't slow the process down. After 500 people do it they will change. I am still having a ball.

Maybe this example will help

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Overkill338

How would one of these "kits" be if you used all Stihl engine parts. I guess what I'm asking is how is the quality of the handle/tank and the mag case?


----------



## Bedford T

Overkill338 said:


> How would one of these "kits" be if you used all Stihl engine parts. I guess what I'm asking is how is the quality of the handle/tank and the mag case?


No problems on handle, case. The trigger does not give you a fast idle and a oem decomp is a good idea depending on the mold they use, but plastic is good. The case is every bit as good.

A few hundred more dollars and you got a first class saw. Half price and you get a great education. I have a website that lays it out for you.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

There is no reason not to buy the 660 kit. Just follow the recommendations and you will be delighted and have some valuable experience u der your belt. Spend some time and read the details but what I say here should give you hope.

It would be great as folks build these if you run into a bad part document it with photos ask for a direct replacement and move on with a better part until all these customer service/ quality work themselves out over time.

When you build, test, break them in and use best/freshes gas/oil you can afford you will not be disappointed. Period. And I am saying this out loud, no one can come in and say that's wrong. 

Did you know that there are 3 levels of firmness of the a/v pieces? The kit has hard but because you are building it you can make choices and customize your build.

Some guys make them pretty. Skies the limit.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Overkill338

Bedford T said:


> No problems on handle, case. The trigger does not give you a fast idle and a oem decomp is a good idea depending on the mold they use, but plastic is good. The case is every bit as good.
> 
> A few hundred more dollars and you got a first class saw. Half price and you get a great education. I have a website that lays it out for you.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



I'm a tester for Hyway parts. They have a bad name in places, but the 180 cylinder and 360 I have in use are working great. They are getting a popup piston for the 360 ready for me.

So I'm thinking about a Huztl 440 kit, use Stihl: crank,rod, starter,clutch cover,brake handle, and some other parts. Use Hyways big bore MS460 cylinder kit. It had a 54mm bore, which would give 82cc. I could use it as a test platform. It should run my 25" Stihl ES bar ok.

Then I've still got to find a home for my popup sets for the 261,461, 066 and 661. I've already given the 044 big bore away.


----------



## Bedford T

Overkill338 said:


> I'm a tester for Hyway parts. They have a bad name in places, but the 180 cylinder and 360 I have in use are working great. They are getting a popup piston for the 360 ready for me.
> 
> So I'm thinking about a Huztl 440 kit, use Stihl: crank,rod, starter,clutch cover,brake handle, and some other parts. Use Hyways big bore MS460 cylinder kit. It had a 54mm bore, which would give 82cc. I could use it as a test platform. It should run my 25" Stihl ES bar ok.
> 
> Then I've still got to find a home for my popup sets for the 261,461, 066 and 661. I've already given the 044 big bore away.


I am to the point on cylinder kits it needs to be meteor (oem too much $) because I can't find problems. You can with ever other AM manufacturer. I have had a very good hyway 660 kit. The 440 kits are very good too. They all require extras. Enjoy your testing

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Overkill338

@Bedford T 

I'm generally against the clone saws, have been for awhile. But I need something to abuse, swap parts in ,etc. Plus who doesn't benefit from extra practice?


----------



## Bedford T

Overkill338 said:


> @Bedford T
> 
> I'm generally against the clone saws, have been for awhile. But I need something to abuse, swap parts in ,etc. Plus who doesn't benefit from extra practice?


Funny, your a clone tester. You are generally against them. Did you tell them that,? Lol

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Overkill338

Bedford T said:


> Funny, your a clone tester. You are generally against them. Did you tell them that,? Lol
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Yes, that's how i got the gig. I'll PM you , it's s lengthy funny story.


----------



## ammoaddict

Mikejr
Did you get an OEM selector switch and trigger or a different after market one.
Mine doesn't have the fast idle either.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Overkill338

Bedford here is a kit i need to get tested.

Hyway's 066/660 popup kit.


----------



## Bedford T

Overkill338 said:


> Bedford here is a kit i need to get tested.
> 
> Hyway's 066/660 popup kit.
> 
> View attachment 664234
> View attachment 664235
> View attachment 664236
> 
> 
> Maybe a kit builder would like to help me?


You better put conditions on it. Like they gotta install it test it break it in and do you a video.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Overkill338

Bedford T said:


> You better put conditions on it. Like they gotta install it test it break it in and do you a video.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



You're exactly right. Sometimes I put too much faith in humanity.


----------



## Bedford T

Well you are giving up something you don't want some over anxious guy to blow it for you. I just sent out two messages. It might be in the morning. I will get you someone who will give it a fair shake for you. 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Overkill338

Bedford T said:


> Well you are giving up something you don't want some over anxious guy to blow it for you. I just sent out two messages. It might be in the morning. I will get you someone who will give it a fair shake for you.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Thanks Bedford.

I'm saving the 261 and 461 kits in case I pick up one of those. I still have a 661 popup too, as well as a Husaqvarna 572 X-Torq big bore.


----------



## Bedford T

Hyway would appreciate you being selective. The saw needs to be sealed and tuned and broke in or somebody is going to whine and you don't want that. Hold tight and we will figure it out.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## mikejr

ammoaddict said:


> Mikejr
> Did you get an OEM selector switch and trigger or a different after market one.
> Mine doesn't have the fast idle either.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



I bought OEM, the switch was a more rigid plastic. I think they are around 7-8 bucks apiece. I think it opens the throttle
plate a little to much, could just be that when the hog fires she sounds like a raging beast lol I dont think there is going 
to be a way to close that plate any but I havent had time to look at it yet. Maybe someone here knows. Main thing is fast idle is fixed and she starts 3 pulls.

Bedford T I appreciate that you replied and didnt try to turn the deal into some big crap slinging show, that isn't what I was trying to start and I wouldnt have taken part in. I understand what your saying, I just hope that you also understand how I viewed your previous comments, that was the main point of my post, I did poke alittle and you seem to have responded like a grown up. That is a plus in my book. Also hope you know that I was just trying to provide information that I thought you wanted. I wouldnt have a problem contacting them about the defective parts, what should I do just email them a list of the parts and tell them there junk send me some more? Are they gonna put me on a watch list and the next time I order a kit they'll completely screw up my order to get even. just a thought. Mike


----------



## Bedford T

See my website it's all laid out

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

So, it cranks better with the new switch lever?


mikejr said:


> I bought OEM, the switch was a more rigid plastic. I think they are around 7-8 bucks apiece. I think it opens the throttle
> plate a little to much, could just be that when the hog fires she sounds like a raging beast lol I dont think there is going
> to be a way to close that plate any but I havent had time to look at it yet. Maybe someone here knows. Main thing is fast idle is fixed and she starts 3 pulls.
> 
> Bedford T I appreciate that you replied and didnt try to turn the deal into some big crap slinging show, that isn't what I was trying to start and I wouldnt have taken part in. I understand what your saying, I just hope that you also understand how I viewed your previous comments, that was the main point of my post, I did poke alittle and you seem to have responded like a grown up. That is a plus in my book. Also hope you know that I was just trying to provide information that I thought you wanted. I wouldnt have a problem contacting them about the defective parts, what should I do just email them a list of the parts and tell them there junk send me some more? Are they gonna put me on a watch list and the next time I order a kit they'll completely screw up my order to get even. just a thought. Mike



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

Overkill338 said:


> Bedford here is a kit i need to get tested.
> 
> Hyway's 066/660 popup kit.
> 
> View attachment 664234
> View attachment 664235
> View attachment 664236


now that looks like something I would be interested in.


----------



## mikejr

Yes but not really, because my saw started easy anyway, when I was putting it together I discovered that after I switched it up from choke to fast idle I could squeeze the trigger some and it would just barely stick and hold the butterfly open.
It had to go to choke first then up or it wouldn't work. somewhere in there switch and trigger it had a tight spot. Iam sure you know this will not fix how many pulls it takes to get the first pop but that throttle plate has to be cracked after that for it to 
blast right off with out running your trigger with a third hand. If your pulling a lot to get that first pop maybe something else is wrong. Mine has been popping and almost starting on the second pull, just cant flip the switch fast enough or it would be running on two. Ones back only has so many chainsaw starts in it, so for 15-20 bucks just getem then contact huztl. If the part #'s aren't posted or you need them let me know.


----------



## dmb2613

I just got a 660 kit this week, am I reading this post right in that you need to not use the piston and cylinder out of the kit, but get an oem or a meteor? I plan on using everything but the wrist pin, circlips and the wrist pin bearing
David


----------



## Bedford T

dmb2613 said:


> I just got a 660 kit this week, am I reading this post right in that you need to not use the piston and cylinder out of the kit, but get an oem or a meteor?
> David


There is more to it than that. Chances are you would be better off with the best cylinder kit you can buy. We have had a lot of issues lately with the kit cylinder kits. 

Congrats you will have fun. Check the website in my footer and read it too.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## dmb2613

I just did a 440 kit and am pleased with it I could not use the oem pin it the 440 as they are different, did use the bearing and clips


----------



## Bedford T

I would not buy oem unless you are going to invest in a oem crank. Otherwise you will not go wrong with just the meteor cylinder kit.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## dmb2613

I am a Stihl tech and can take care of the small problems, a new P/C is not a small problem, what have you encountered with the kit P/C


----------



## dmb2613

I can get oem at a good price lol but that is not the point the kit parts should work


----------



## Bedford T

dmb2613 said:


> I am a Stihl tech and can take care of the small problems, a new P/C is not a small problem, what have you encountered with the kit P/C


Problems that mess with the crank. That boils down to bad geometry. What level of tech are you?

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

dmb2613 said:


> I can get oem at a good price lol but that is not the point the kit parts should work


Then use it. I am not bad mouthing it. You can read the thread. I was just helping you cut through it. Sounds like you don't need that help you are just letting everyone know who you are. That's ok. 

I will give you a hint. If you think you know what you are doing, you better slow down and listen a little. The kits are close copies so if you do everything by the book and your engine specs are not oem you best adjust them or you will have early failure. 

And, the thread has enough testimony to provide the reader with a clear understanding that not all parts will last or it not burn your saw up. 

Read, consider and apply

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## dmb2613

I have been to way too many Stihl schools , I think Silver I am the only chain saw guy at work and don't go to all the schools anymore. It is way over rated. I see guys there that I would not trust with a hand saw let alone a chainsaw


----------



## Bedford T

Simple adjustments and swaps provide an excellent saw

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

dmb2613 said:


> I have been to way too many Stihl schools , I think Silver I am the only chain saw guy at work and don't go to all the schools anymore. It is way over rated. I see guys there that I would not trust with a hand saw let alone a chainsaw


That is what I was concerned about. Ok well I explained it to you. Take it or leave it

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## dmb2613

I don't expect it to be as good as a Stihl, just had to try them to see how good they are.
I am not blowing my horn just want to know what the problems were. I know they don't make as much power as the real deal unless you do some work on the cylinder The 440 had .045 clearance without a gasket


----------



## dmb2613

Bedford T said:


> That is what I was concerned about. Ok well I explained it to you. Take it or leave it
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



What do you mean?


----------



## Bedford T

It can be as good is the point. And the difference. You build it and make it good. Are you good enough to do that? Are you good enough to make the right choices and adjustment? That is kit building.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

I know guys in the business that have, can and do. Stihl has a great program you should be in every school and be the best in the class. It's a art. Troubleshooting, the correct way. With the correct tools. 

Guys like you think you have done it, but you seldom work with pro cases and that is something guys that work in it full time benefit with the kits, that experience of working with the cases and seeing it all come together. Most Stihl guys replace carbs all day. 

Make it an art.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## dmb2613

I am 62 years old , I guess I don't know didly


----------



## JimM

I’ve seen the transformation. Bedford now knows it all. Resistance is futile. Lol


----------



## ammoaddict

dmb2613 said:


> I can get oem at a good price lol but that is not the point the kit parts should work


I agree the kit parts should work but all of them don't. The cylinders are inconsistent from kit to kit. My squish was .035 with no gasket, some guys have gotten .020 with gasket. Most of the parts are usable but a few are junk. All in all the kits are good. You can have a running saw with just a couple extra parts. But if you want a really good running saw like Bedford said, you will have to put alot more money in parts. The only OEM part in mine so far is a Husqvarna decomp. I have used a couple after market parts from other sources. I haven't used mine much because it's just too hot here. But it does run pretty good, it could be better but it does run and I enjoyed building it and learned a lot.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

I wonder if the guys with squish around .020 are the better ones. 
I built 3 with all around .022 squish that was late 2016 models. I have one more kit that was shipped from china around February-April 2017 to HL then to me. I may built the case and see.


----------



## ammoaddict

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> I wonder if the guys with squish around .020 are the better ones.
> I built 3 with all around .022 squish that was late 2016 models. I have one more kit that was shipped from china around February-April 2017 to HL then to me. I may built the case and see.


I got mine in may and one other got his a couple weeks ago and his was good. Mine shipped from NJ. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

It seems people have different routes they want to take their kit saws. If you want oem "like" longevity then go with a good nikasil cylinder and appropriate upgrades. If your a once a year firewood cutter then the chrome cylinder will out last you. Most important is A good fresh fuel with good oil "at the appropriate ratio for it's end use" and a tune that holds every time you run it. Pick your build then see how many years it last. The chrome cylinders break in and wears better with the cheaper rings. 

Same with the top handles. 
The one it comes with will work if you run it on the bench all day. 
The 3/4 wrap will last the firewood cutter. None is as good as the oem.


----------



## cedar rat

My boys just finished up a 066 huztl with the Farmertec big bore kit, yesterday. First I was amazed the chain tensioner in the kit worked, but still no nuts for mounting the dawgs.

The big bore was a tough pulling saw, so the decompression valve was needed, no stihl dealer near me to get an oem part so...

We blew the top, (plastic cap) off two am compression releases. Then we welded a nut on one to replace the plastic cap, problem solved! _As stated before: *the kit decomp valves are crap!*_

Made some quick cookies, impressive so far!

Going to huztl up some firewood today!

*Edit;*The cylinder had some sharp and rough edges on the ports, we hand sanded them with 400 wet dry until they felt rounded and smooth. Our foredom needs a new handpiece, so hence the hand sanding.


----------



## Bedford T

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> It seems people have different routes they want to take their kit saws. If you want oem "like" longevity then go with a good nikasil cylinder and appropriate upgrades. If your a once a year firewood cutter then the chrome cylinder will out last you. Most important is A good fresh fuel with good oil "at the appropriate ratio for it's end use" and a tune that holds every time you run it. Pick your build then see how many years it last. The chrome cylinders break in and wears better with the cheaper rings.
> 
> Same with the top handles.
> The one it comes with will work if you run it on the bench all day.
> The 3/4 wrap will last the firewood cutter. None is as good as the oem.


(This got too long, first & last paragraph is the meat and potatoes)

Your participation in the thread has waned. There has been considerable trouble with the cylinders of late and the posts have detailed that issue, from my own experience and others. We have shared our stories and photos. So I would appreciate you considering that when you say they are ok. I know that people who don't have a great deal of experience run up on the problem need to be mindful and saying they are ok works against that. They may be ok again. The problem lies in QC and we know there is none.

A poor cylinder kit can damage your saw, a rough cylinder can snag a ring, the caviets go on., How about when it puts your rod in a bind and damages the main bearing. Not just FarmerTec, even cross. You get a bad one you need to admit it, if only to one's self. I have only seen two manufacturer that don't share a iffy track record, Stihl and meteor

We bring in this info to be helpful. 

If you have access to a lathe then you can make a bad cylinder better. These warnings have nothing to do with the coating, all though if you are building to get the most out of your investment a good coating will improve it. I don't regret my purchase.

A good chrome cylinder with matched rings are very good. I will definie a good chrome cylinder as one that has been finished so not to catch rings and the geometry is correct. The kits have not contained that in some time, maybe the finish in forever. I never expected a ported cylinder in the kit. I have said this from day one it would take them several minutes to smooth it before selling it. Never could get them to do that much.

So back to the best advice to anyone that wants your crank to last, your saw to last, depend on a good cylinder kit. If money is a problem ask a local to spin it for you. Then as long as your clear do as you wish.

I got about 500 in mine and a dealer would charge 1200 around here. What a deal. My only regret was all that time I wasted with bad cylinderS in this last kit. 2 bad FarmerTec, 1 bad Cross when I could have just spent $119 for the meteor and been done with it



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
The


----------



## Bedford T

A little give away, If 5 people tell their story of what they had to do or change or correct their KIT cylinder kit on their FARMERTEC ms660 kit to make it work or make it safer. Include things like squish how rough it was, any broken pieces, issues

I will write the folks names down on a piece of paper and i will draw one name from my hat on Saturday 28th 8pm est. Free with free shipping to lower 48 sent to winner on Monday 30th

Once you get used to tuning with these disks you will see how accurate you will become adjusting needles. The settings document Stihl has uses this scale, for example telling you to tune H, 1 turn out, on the scale that's 0-0, 1 full turn. But L 1.5 turns to 20 (14+6) makes your adjustment accurate. I use mine Everytime (photo is showing both sides of one disk.

Good luck if got anything to share












chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Bedford T said:


> (This got too long, first & last paragraph is the meat and potatoes)
> 
> Your participation in the thread has waned. There has been considerable trouble with the cylinders of late and the posts have detailed that issue, from my own experience and others. We have shared our stories and photos. So I would appreciate you considering that when you say they are ok. I know that people who don't have a great deal of experience run up on the problem need to be mindful and saying they are ok works against that. They may be ok again. The problem lies in QC and we know there is none.
> 
> A poor cylinder kit can damage your saw, a rough cylinder can snag a ring, the caviets go on., How about when it puts your rod in a bind and damages the main bearing. Not just FarmerTec, even cross. You get a bad one you need to admit it, if only to one's self. I have only seen two manufacturer that don't share a iffy track record, Stihl and meteor
> 
> We bring in this info to be helpful.
> 
> If you have access to a lathe then you can make a bad cylinder better. These warnings have nothing to do with the coating, all though if you are building to get the most out of your investment a good coating will improve it. I don't regret my purchase.
> 
> A good chrome cylinder with matched rings are very good. I will definie a good chrome cylinder as one that has been finished so not to catch rings and the geometry is correct. The kits have not contained that in some time, maybe the finish in forever. I never expected a ported cylinder in the kit. I have said this from day one it would take them several minutes to smooth it before selling it. Never could get them to do that much.
> 
> So back to the best advice to anyone that wants your crank to last, your saw to last, depend on a good cylinder kit. If money is a problem ask a local to spin it for you. Then as long as your clear do as you wish.
> 
> I got about 500 in mine and a dealer would charge 1200 around here. What a deal. My only regret was all that time I wasted with bad cylinderS in this last kit. 2 bad FarmerTec, 1 bad Cross when I could have just spent $119 for the meteor and been done with it
> 
> 
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
> The



Lol Sorry, I can't say it was easy reading that long post either. And it took 4 days for you to reply. 

You really don't know what I've followed! I have read every post as it's happened. The only thing I was looking at is when the cylinders supposedly went bad. 
The 2 first ones I use are still ok, They have been with everyday tree cutters and have no idea how much they ran, but it's beat up and looks like it's been abused. 
I'll see if I can get some pics, that may be more interesting.

Edit: I don't want this thread from you! Please don't run everyone off. Don't post til your meds wane.


----------



## ammoaddict

Ok, here's my story. I bought this for the challenge and satisfaction of building it. I like to build things. I have built 6 AR-15 rifles. It's just something I enjoy. I have sold some of them because I don't need them all and it gets expensive. Same deal with this saw kit. I didn't need it at all. I wanted to see how well it would work with all AM parts. That's why I have not bought any Stihl parts. I want it to be totally AM. I have replaced a couple parts with different AM parts that are better than farmertec. Since I have this saw and it's runs, I bought a mill for it and will use it for occasional milling since I like woodworking as well.
My cylinder wasn't that great, chrome plating is not uniform, some of the ports we're sharp, used sandpaper to smooth them out. The squish was .035 with NO gasket. That's what irritated me the most. It has 155 psi compression so far. May go up a little with use. I don't know. I have like $310 in it including huztl 25" bar and chain.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Nice. Palmetto State Armory isn't far from you ammoaddict. I've built several with their parts. My last was a 10.5"


----------



## ammoaddict

I have one that is totally PSA parts. I have ordered tons of stuff from them. Good company to deal with.


X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Nice. Palmetto State Armory isn't far from you ammoaddict. I've built several with their parts. My last was a 10.5"



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

Overkill338 said:


> Bedford here is a kit i need to get tested.
> 
> Hyway's 066/660 popup kit.
> 
> View attachment 664234
> View attachment 664235
> View attachment 664236


Are these for sale? I would be interested in one.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Overkill338

ammoaddict said:


> Are these for sale? I would be interested in one.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



I don't think they are yet, but I can ask.


----------



## Roobarb

Hello everyone from Australia, first post but have been lurking a while.
Just ordered a 660 kit for the experience and light firewood cutting maybe 5 times a year.
Not very experienced with saws but like tinkering with stuff so should be a nice challenge.
Is there any parts that I should buy before building this ? Also what size bar and chain should I be buying for this ?
Any brands I should be looking at or is the farmertec bars and chains good enough ?
Thanks for looking !


----------



## ammoaddict

Roobarb said:


> Hello everyone from Australia, first post but have been lurking a while.
> Just ordered a 660 kit for the experience and light firewood cutting maybe 5 times a year.
> Not very experienced with saws but like tinkering with stuff so should be a nice challenge.
> Is there any parts that I should buy before building this ? Also what size bar and chain should I be buying for this ?
> Any brands I should be looking at or is the farmertec bars and chains good enough ?
> Thanks for looking !


Welcome from USA. Good luck with your kit. You will need a decomp for sure. Most other parts are personal preference depending on how far you want to take your build. The huztl bars and chains are plenty good for occasional cutting. The length depends on the size of wood you will be cutting. If you read this entire thread you should be good to go.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Roobarb

Thanks for the reply, will order a oem decomp, will be mainly cutting harder woods like redgum that we get here so I was thinking 24” bar with semi chisel chain. A lot of reading to do on here thats forsure !


----------



## Overkill338

Roobarb said:


> Thanks for the reply, will order a oem decomp, will be mainly cutting harder woods like redgum that we get here so I was thinking 24” bar with semi chisel chain. A lot of reading to do on here thats forsure !



24" ? Hardwoods? Might want to think about a better cylinder and piston if they are as bad as he told me they are.


----------



## Roobarb

Not that experienced with saws, thinking about the meteor cylinder kit but will wait to see how the build goes first.
What bar size and chain would you recommend ? The wood is not super hard compared to some woods we get here.
Thanks


----------



## ammoaddict

I put the huztl 25" on mine


Roobarb said:


> Not that experienced with saws, thinking about the meteor cylinder kit but will wait to see how the build goes first.
> What bar size and chain would you recommend ? The wood is not super hard compared to some woods we get here.
> Thanks



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> A little give away, If 5 people tell their story of what they had to do or change or correct their KIT cylinder kit on their FARMERTEC ms660 kit to make it work or make it safer. Include things like squish how rough it was, any broken pieces, issues
> 
> I will write the folks names down on a piece of paper and i will draw one name from my hat on Saturday 28th 8pm est. Free with free shipping to lower 48 sent to winner on Monday 30th
> 
> Once you get used to tuning with these disks you will see how accurate you will become adjusting needles. The settings document Stihl has uses this scale, for example telling you to tune H, 1 turn out, on the scale that's 0-0, 1 full turn. But L 1.5 turns to 20 (14+6) makes your adjustment accurate. I use mine Everytime (photo is showing both sides of one disk.
> 
> Good luck if got anything to share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


OK Bedford, who won your little drawing?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

Roobarb said:


> Thanks for the reply, will order a oem decomp, will be mainly cutting harder woods like redgum that we get here so I was thinking 24” bar with semi chisel chain. A lot of reading to do on here thats forsure !


The Husqvarna decomp fits it as well, which ever is easier for you to get. That's what I have in mine. It was cheaper than the Stihl plus the blue looks real pretty in that orange cover. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> OK Bedford, who won your little drawing?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


No one entered and that is what I unfortunately expected. Not much participation anymore very few people are building in the forum. YouTube building views seem high. 070 gets me the most questions

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Lol Sorry, I can't say it was easy reading that long post either. And it took 4 days for you to reply.
> 
> You really don't know what I've followed! I have read every post as it's happened. The only thing I was looking at is when the cylinders supposedly went bad.
> The 2 first ones I use are still ok, They have been with everyday tree cutters and have no idea how much they ran, but it's beat up and looks like it's been abused.
> I'll see if I can get some pics, that may be more interesting.
> 
> Edit: I don't want this thread from you! Please don't run everyone off. Don't post til your meds wane.


Where did I reply to you. Bizarre post.I don't exactly understand it. 

I was trying to help Mike find a guy who could help him tell the story to other guys in the thread and I suggested you but instead you tried to sell him a kit, your dusty kit. Lol. I guess we will never learn if that cylinder kit was any good. How selfless of you.

I will repeat this just once more, the kits have changed over time as far as a item having trouble with occasional part. Like the first cases causing issues with the chain adjuster. The case mold was changed and the problem went away except for occasional issues with the gears afterwards. So saws you built right after they started selling or the kit sitting in your shop are built from aftermarket parts that are different in some cases and that makes a difference when you tell someone about your experience with a part it could be different, I still believe they stack them ready to ship in trailers so they can sell a kit with original cases once in a blue moon when they get low one gets shipped. Keeping up with that helps answer questions.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> No one entered and that is what I unfortunately expected. Not much participation anymore very few people are building in the forum. YouTube building views seem high. 070 gets me the most questions
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Look at post number 1835. I entered it and told my story.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> Look at post number 1835. I entered it and told my story.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


My post said

"A little give away, If 5 people tell their story" but only 1 person told their story. Tell you what I will give it to you but you pay the postage. I think the lowest is 3$ usps.

I suspected participation was extremely low otherwise I would have set it @ 20 people and I was right. It's a cool tool. Glad for someone to get it.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Roobarb said:


> Hello everyone from Australia, first post but have been lurking a while.
> Just ordered a 660 kit for the experience and light firewood cutting maybe 5 times a year.
> Not very experienced with saws but like tinkering with stuff so should be a nice challenge.
> Is there any parts that I should buy before building this ? Also what size bar and chain should I be buying for this ?
> Any brands I should be looking at or is the farmertec bars and chains good enough ?
> Thanks for looking !


Hi down under.


I got a website that can answer some of your questions. On the bar and chain you might want to read some here. There is a fella from New Zealand and he has had trouble with the huztl bar chain. I use them. I suspected it was the wood you guys have in that part of the world. He cuts a lot, daily. That is another consideration in weighing his comments.

But as costly as the stuff is there it might still be a great choice. 28" is longest they sell for this mount. You should have a great time. 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Roobarb

Hello and thanks Bedford, I have subscribed to your YouTube and checked out your webpage and am slowly going through all these pages ! Lots of stuff to take in. Now just need to wait for my kit.


----------



## Bedford T

Roobarb said:


> Hello and thanks Bedford, I have subscribed to your YouTube and checked out your webpage and am slowly going through all these pages ! Lots of stuff to take in. Now just need to wait for my kit.


Savoir it. I love the kits. It's incredible what you learn. Don't you guys have rock hard wood, generally?

Preparing is just as much fun, at least to me. Do you have a manual and ipl? If you don't pm your email and I will send them to you

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Roobarb

Thanks for the offer ! PM sent. Yeah our woods are generally hard, some small local stuff we get here is called myall very very tough, a lot of the guys have to buy tungsten chains so they can get a bit more cutting time with them. Most likely won’t be cutting anything that tough with the kit saw tho, mostly red/yellow gum still hard but not that bad I guess. 
Have to see what the aussies/New Zealanders are using chain and bar wise with these saws.


----------



## Bedford T

Roobarb said:


> Thanks for the offer ! PM sent. Yeah our woods are generally hard, some small local stuff we get here is called myall very very tough, a lot of the guys have to buy tungsten chains so they can get a bit more cutting time with them. Most likely won’t be cutting anything that tough with the kit saw tho, mostly red/yellow gum still hard but not that bad I guess.
> Have to see what the aussies/New Zealanders are using chain and bar wise with these saws.


Stihl, Archer is my memory of what he said he had good luck with. He got so frustrated. It occurred to me that it was his wood. I believed based solely on a gut feeling his bar and chain would get hot and his rails would deform.

I knew mine did not and felt that had to be the difference in his case. No reason to tell him that, he figured out what did work. I have no experience with that type wood.

In an international forum I have learned to take into account all these different things that impact other kit builders. Here in America we have the worse gas on the planet, that's easy to figure out and it shows up in the problems we have.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Roobarb

Thank you for the documents, will be a big help. Will find the posts about the bars on here, cheers


----------



## Schmalts

Hi guys, first post here so I will do a short introduction. I am going to build my first kit saw 660 after looking at the forums and YouTube videos. I have 105 acres of Wisconsin woods that I do logging on and it would be nice to have a saw with a long bar to drop some giant red pine and basswood when the stihl 391 20" bar is not ideal. Ok, I just want to build one lol. I don't want to divulge to much about my employment but I have or have worked as an experimental engine builder, experimental mechanic, and a tech specialist developing engine calibrations, so putting one of these together isn't too confusing. I do have a couple assembly techniques I am going to tryin the crank case assembly and I will share the results. I cringe seeing any videos of guys using a mallet, or a press incorrectly. These are assembled cranks, and hitting or pressing on the end of the shafts can put the crank out of true because the crank is not a straight shaft. I also don't see many guys checking the crank runout, big gamble to trust the Chinese to true them. A cheapo set of v-blocks an an indicator can be used but again, I suggest checking this. My crank was .005 out, I adjusted it to under .002 in the end. I built crank pulling tools but I am going to try a modified version of the heat and cold method with either liquid nitrogen, freon, or dry ice and acetone. I've used this method on installing valve seats into heads, and barrels into trunnion receivers on rifles. Purely drop on! I am fairly confident it will work. And no you don't compromise the parts, in fact cryogenic freezing strengthens them. I'll keep you posted, enjoyed the reading!


----------



## Schmalts

I wanted to add that the flywheel side bearing feels horrible. I ordered another bearing kit to get seals and again, the same farmertec is terrible. I removed the cage to inspect the races and clean them but can't find the culpret. What has been your observation and what is a AM source for a bearing that doesn't feel like gravel? I just can't use these bearings in good confidence.


----------



## Bedford T

Schmalts said:


> Hi guys, first post here so I will do a short introduction. I am going to build my first kit saw 660 after looking at the forums and YouTube videos. I have 105 acres of Wisconsin woods that I do logging on and it would be nice to have a saw with a long bar to drop some giant red pine and basswood when the stihl 391 20" bar is not ideal. Ok, I just want to build one lol. I don't want to divulge to much about my employment but I have or have worked as an experimental engine builder, experimental mechanic, and a tech specialist developing engine calibrations, so putting one of these together isn't too confusing. I do have a couple assembly techniques I am going to tryin the crank case assembly and I will share the results. I cringe seeing any videos of guys using a mallet, or a press incorrectly. These are assembled cranks, and hitting or pressing on the end of the shafts can put the crank out of true because the crank is not a straight shaft. I also don't see many guys checking the crank runout, big gamble to trust the Chinese to true them. A cheapo set of v-blocks an an indicator can be used but again, I suggest checking this. My crank was .005 out, I adjusted it to under .002 in the end. I built crank pulling tools but I am going to try a modified version of the heat and cold method with either liquid nitrogen, freon, or dry ice and acetone. I've used this method on installing valve seats into heads, and barrels into trunnion receivers on rifles. Purely drop on! I am fairly confident it will work. And no you don't compromise the parts, in fact cryogenic freezing strengthens them. I'll keep you posted, enjoyed the reading!


Hi, have fun!

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Welcome to arborist site. New ideas are always welcome. Videos of your process would be much appreciated. Good luck and keep us posted.


Schmalts said:


> Hi guys, first post here so I will do a short introduction. I am going to build my first kit saw 660 after looking at the forums and YouTube videos. I have 105 acres of Wisconsin woods that I do logging on and it would be nice to have a saw with a long bar to drop some giant red pine and basswood when the stihl 391 20" bar is not ideal. Ok, I just want to build one lol. I don't want to divulge to much about my employment but I have or have worked as an experimental engine builder, experimental mechanic, and a tech specialist developing engine calibrations, so putting one of these together isn't too confusing. I do have a couple assembly techniques I am going to tryin the crank case assembly and I will share the results. I cringe seeing any videos of guys using a mallet, or a press incorrectly. These are assembled cranks, and hitting or pressing on the end of the shafts can put the crank out of true because the crank is not a straight shaft. I also don't see many guys checking the crank runout, big gamble to trust the Chinese to true them. A cheapo set of v-blocks an an indicator can be used but again, I suggest checking this. My crank was .005 out, I adjusted it to under .002 in the end. I built crank pulling tools but I am going to try a modified version of the heat and cold method with either liquid nitrogen, freon, or dry ice and acetone. I've used this method on installing valve seats into heads, and barrels into trunnion receivers on rifles. Purely drop on! I am fairly confident it will work. And no you don't compromise the parts, in fact cryogenic freezing strengthens them. I'll keep you posted, enjoyed the reading!



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Schmalts

Bedford T said:


> Hi, have fun!
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Will do! I enjoy finding cheap alternatives to things. I am so busy I wish I could dive into this faster but it's going to be done in stages when time allows. I plan to get a OEM piston pin and bearing, and viton intake boot. I might use tygon for the fuel lines, even though they aren't designed for it but tygon is great material. I have found on any small rubber hose a tiny wire zip tie works great as a hose clamp at times. The cylinder looksgood after cleaning up the ports but im not impressed with the feel of the piston in the bore, but I look at it as it's not always a catastrophic type failure so iwill try it, but the flywheel side bearing has to go...


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Your post was 1832 referred to me Mr Bedford. 
If you want to know our exact discussion about the hyway cylinder I can copy and paste it for you. 
I mentioned to him if I didn't get the Hyway topend I maybe interested in selling my kit for $200 shipped. 
That "dusty" kit is still in the box and in the labeled bags. 
The problem your speaking of is with the cylinders and not the kits. So essentially farmer's topend could be tested on a oem case. 

I could have missed everyone but how many had cylinder problems? You, then MG which was heavily ported and imprzed205 but we know nothing about his build. 
That cross cylinder is on a 064 that cuts a couple times a week with a 32" bar It's tuned to 13,000. 

Why are you short with the new guys and want them to read back in the forum or go to a website. 
That's fine but don't chastise them for asking questions that's been covered awhile ago. That's what this thread needs is involvement and open doors. 
In the beginning of Ammo's build he was left figuring out a lot of questions and was referred other places. 
I've had a couple new guys pm me asking questions. 
I feel it's because they don't want to speak up in the forum, I help with info best I can. Let's move forward and help build saws. 



Bedford T said:


> Where did I reply to you. Bizarre post.I don't exactly understand it.
> 
> I was trying to help Mike find a guy who could help him tell the story to other guys in the thread and I suggested you but instead you tried to sell him a kit, your dusty kit. Lol. I guess we will never learn if that cylinder kit was any good. How selfless of you.
> 
> I will repeat this just once more, the kits have changed over time as far as a item having trouble with occasional part. Like the first cases causing issues with the chain adjuster. The case mold was changed and the problem went away except for occasional issues with the gears afterwards. So saws you built right after they started selling or the kit sitting in your shop are built from aftermarket parts that are different in some cases and that makes a difference when you tell someone about your experience with a part it could be different, I still believe they stack them ready to ship in trailers so they can sell a kit with original cases once in a blue moon when they get low one gets shipped. Keeping up with that helps


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Schmalts said:


> Hi guys, first post here so I will do a short introduction. I am going to build my first kit saw 660 after looking at the forums and YouTube videos. I have 105 acres of Wisconsin woods that I do logging on and it would be nice to have a saw with a long bar to drop some giant red pine and basswood when the stihl 391 20" bar is not ideal. Ok, I just want to build one lol. I don't want to divulge to much about my employment but I have or have worked as an experimental engine builder, experimental mechanic, and a tech specialist developing engine calibrations, so putting one of these together isn't too confusing. I do have a couple assembly techniques I am going to tryin the crank case assembly and I will share the results. I cringe seeing any videos of guys using a mallet, or a press incorrectly. These are assembled cranks, and hitting or pressing on the end of the shafts can put the crank out of true because the crank is not a straight shaft. I also don't see many guys checking the crank runout, big gamble to trust the Chinese to true them. A cheapo set of v-blocks an an indicator can be used but again, I suggest checking this. My crank was .005 out, I adjusted it to under .002 in the end. I built crank pulling tools but I am going to try a modified version of the heat and cold method with either liquid nitrogen, freon, or dry ice and acetone. I've used this method on installing valve seats into heads, and barrels into trunnion receivers on rifles. Purely drop on! I am fairly confident it will work. And no you don't compromise the parts, in fact cryogenic freezing strengthens them. I'll keep you posted, enjoyed the reading!



Very interesting Post pics and vids along the way. 
I didn't check my crank or flywheel. But all I've ran has more vibration than a oem


----------



## Bedford T

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Your post was 1832 referred to me Mr Bedford.
> If you want to know our exact discussion about the hyway cylinder I can copy and paste it for you.
> I mentioned to him if I didn't get the Hyway topend I maybe interested in selling my kit for $200 shipped.
> That "dusty" kit is still in the box and in the labeled bags.
> The problem your speaking of is with the cylinders and not the kits. So essentially farmer's topend could be tested on a oem case.
> 
> I could have missed everyone but how many had cylinder problems? You, then MG which was heavily ported and imprzed205 but we know nothing about his build.
> That cross cylinder is on a 064 that cuts a couple times a week with a 32" bar It's tuned to 13,000.
> 
> Why are you short with the new guys and want them to read back in the forum or go to a website.
> That's fine but don't chastise them for asking questions that's been covered awhile ago. That's what this thread needs is involvement and open doors.
> In the beginning of Ammo's build he was left figuring out a lot of questions and was referred other places.
> I've had a couple new guys pm me asking questions.
> I feel it's because they don't want to speak up in the forum, I help with info best I can. Let's move forward and help build saws.


This covers both how much you paid attention and me asking you about the hyway. Is this the one you meant?

Your message too me about whether you will mess that the hyway no messages about selling your kit

"I'll think about it. 
I wonder how thorough they want the test? A properly sealed and tuned engine would be needed. 
I've read the the 660 thread on and off and it's seemed the kind of people building the kits have changed slightly compared to the ones originally. 

Your right about people not listening and then wanting to complain when it's all laid out what to expect. You've done all the leg work on your site and on the forum.'

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Bedford T said:


> Where did I reply to you. Bizarre post.I don't exactly understand it.
> 
> I was trying to help Mike find a guy who could help him tell the story to other guys in the thread and I suggested you but instead you tried to sell him a kit, your dusty kit. Lol. I guess we will never learn if that cylinder kit was any good. How selfless of you.
> 
> I will repeat this just once more, the kits have changed over time as far as a item having trouble with occasional part. Like the first cases causing issues with the chain adjuster. The case mold was changed and the problem went away except for occasional issues with the gears afterwards. So saws you built right after they started selling or the kit sitting in your shop are built from aftermarket parts that are different in some cases and that makes a difference when you tell someone about your experience with a part it could be different, I still believe they stack them ready to ship in trailers so they can sell a kit with original cases once in a blue moon when they get low one gets shipped. Keeping up with that helps answer questions.
> 
> 
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



You said I tried selling my kit instead of helping him test his hyway. And how selfless that was. What did I miss?


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

I was getting the kit from him Thursday to test. But who knows if the wants to now with the all the nonsense going on.


----------



## Bedford T

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> I was getting the kit from him Thursday to test. But who knows if the wants to now with the all the nonsense going on.


I am sure he does. You are still the best choice.


chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Schmalts

Well I took one of the 2 clutch side bearings apart to find why the farmertec bearing feels like crap. My bad, in my post yesterday I said it was the flywheel side, i was not at my saw when I posted it, but the gritty bearings are the clutch side. Here is what I found.... I rolled one ball in the race until I found the tick, and then inspected it. Not good, my advise is to roll your kit bearings very fast on your finger, and load and turn them as well to see if you feel any clicking spots. Look what I found, those bearing would have spalled in short time. Farmertec needs to get this fixed, Do not install these!

Again, anyone have an AM source for these that are worth a crap


----------



## Bedford T

Schmalts said:


> Well I took one of the 2 clutch side bearings apart to find why the farmertec bearing feels like crap. My bad, in my post yesterday I said it was the flywheel side, i was not at my saw when I posted it, but the gritty bearings are the clutch side. Here is what I found.... Not good, my advise is to roll your kit bearings very fast on your finger, and load and turn them as well to see if you feel any clicking spots. Look what I found, those bearing would have spalled in short time. Farmertec needs to get this fixed, Do not install these!View attachment 666127


We have seen shavings in them. Washing them out usually fixed it. Individual parts, so today the bearings are something you're saying we need to look at. It changes.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Schmalts

Yes, this is not debris, it is in the grind and polishing of the race groove. This looks to be a tooling mark that did not get polished out. I tried to brake clean blast out the installed bearing to no avail, and then when this uninstalled bearing I bought off Amazon showed up it felt the same. There is no possible way this bearing would not spall premature. Any defect you can feel that much when rolling a single ball over will just propagate to a larger spall. If anyone wants to inspect the bearing, pop out the ball seperator, move all the balls together to one side, and a small channel lock pliers works good to get the slight force needed to pop the inner race over to where there is no balls and then can be removed. You can assemble it back together when done, but it is a little harder.... but you can do it. This is where cheap Chinese bearings pale in comparison to a good name like Timken, FAG, and SKF. They do not polish out the grooves like they should be. This would be OK for something like a bike wheel, but not for 13000 RPM's. I will add that the flywheel side bearings feel very good, No worries there with the one installed and the one I got with bearing/seal kit.


----------



## Bedford T

Schmalts said:


> Yes, this is not debris, it is in the grind and polishing of the race groove. This looks to be a tooling mark that did not get polished out. I tried to brake clean blast out the installed bearing to no avail, and then when this uninstalled bearing I bought off Amazon showed up it felt the same. There is no possible way this bearing would not spall premature. Any defect you can feel that much when rolling a single ball over will just propagate to a larger spall.


No doubt, I was just summarizing for those following along to the bearing history.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## William Prophett

Intersting.... So, you actually know all the good bearing manufacturers, but keep asking if anyone knows where to get a better bearing? You can always polish out any problems with your .30 cent bearing if you want or replace it with any of the ones you listed... I'm interested in building one with Dominant Saw ceramic beearings myself, but that isn't for this post. One thing that has not been a point of failure for these kit saws are the cheap bearings. Like yourself, there have been times folks have caught "crunchy" (not just debris)ones and replaced them in the beginning, like anyone would do with any crunchy bearing in any application.


----------



## Schmalts

If you can help come up with the part number one one that is verified to have the same diameter of the outer race to take the seal, then yes I will use one of the better bearing manufactures and we all could benefit from it.. Listen, I got 2 bad ones in a row, how many times would you suggest buying the same crap before you get a good one?


----------



## William Prophett

Schmalts said:


> If you can help come up with the part number one one that is verified to have the same diameter of the outer race to take the seal, then yes I will use one of the better bearing manufactures and we all could benefit from it.. Listen, I got 2 bad ones in a row, how many times would you suggest buying the same crap before you get a good one?


So far you've used all the "smart" lingo to prove that you know what you are talking about, mic the hole and call the manufacturer like anyone else that doesn't trust the replacement bearings to seal the hole. This is an interesting bearing issue for those of you that don't build "alot" of things. These bearings have to spin very high rpm and also hold pressure and vacuum. It's actually a lot to ask of any bearing. Like I said above, the bestings have not been a point of failure on these cheap kits. I haven't seen or heard of a main bearing actually failing. The better question would be "how many spin fine but don't seal well and cause your build to grenande"... If you are worried about the seal, use an anerobic sealer around the seating surface on the cases... There are certain "levels" of people as it pertains to anything. In engineering we test people, "can they weld stainless" "can they tear down a complete engine and rebild" "can they take apart a bearing and put it back together" etc.... If you can take apart a bearing and put it back together, you know what you are doing. You also know you can polish it. You also know how to order a bearing. Good luck with it, but I'm guessing you already know your "answers"....


----------



## William Prophett

Schmalts said:


> If you can help come up with the part number one one that is verified to have the same diameter of the outer race to take the seal, then yes I will use one of the better bearing manufactures and we all could benefit from it.. Listen, I got 2 bad ones in a row, how many times would you suggest buying the same crap before you get a good one?


The Stihl part number is 9523 003 4555


----------



## dmb2613

this is a screwed up thread for sure


----------



## Schmalts

William Prophett said:


> So far you've used all the "smart" lingo to prove that you know what you are talking about, mic the hole and call the manufacturer like anyone else that doesn't trust the replacement bearings to seal the hole. This is an interesting bearing issue for those of you that don't build "alot" of things. These bearings have to spin very high rpm and also hold pressure and vacuum. It's actually a lot to ask of any bearing. Like I said above, the bestings have not been a point of failure on these cheap kits. I haven't seen or heard of a main bearing actually failing. The better question would be "how many spin fine but don't seal well and cause your build to grenande"... If you are worried about the seal, use an anerobic sealer around the seating surface on the cases... There are certain "levels" of people as it pertains to anything. In engineering we test people, "can they weld stainless" "can they tear down a complete engine and rebild" "can they take apart a bearing and put it back together" etc.... If you can take apart a bearing and put it back together, you know what you are doing. You also know you can polish it. You also know how to order a bearing. Good luck with it, but I'm guessing you already know your "answers"....


I do know the answers, but one of the points of these threads is time savings. I was hoping someone has done this footwork of finding a cheap alternative to the bearing. I'll hit the local bearing store at lunch, might be a longshot but maybe they might have one. I am not saying the farmertec bearings are all crap, but like all production they may have had a bad run and I might have 2 from that.


----------



## William Prophett

Schmalts said:


> I do know the answers, but one of the points of these threads is time savings. I was hoping someone has done this footwork of finding a cheap alternative to the bearing. I'll hit the local bearing store at lunch, might be a longshot but maybe they might have one.


At least you will have the ability to get a "solid" replacement that way. For the cost of the bearings, more folks should go with good ones. The only consolation is that they haven't been a point of failure "yet". I've got 3 Husky 2 series saws that have 30 year old bearings still doing their job. Gonna be a long time before we know the real "story" about the bearings in the kit.


----------



## Schmalts

William Prophett said:


> At least you will have the ability to get a "solid" replacement that way. For the cost of the bearings, more folks should go with good ones. The only consolation is that they haven't been a point of failure "yet". I've got 3 Husky 2 series saws that have 30 year old bearings still doing their job. Gonna be a long time before we know the real "story" about the bearings in the kit.


I agree 100 percent. There is a chance though that most past builds didn't have this defect in the bearing as it could be a manufacturer lot issue. Here is a little better picture, not something you want to polish out or use for that matter. I advise everyone to pay attention to this bearing before using. You guys have done a great job identifying what parts to replace or look out for already, I'm just doing my part


----------



## William Prophett

Schmalts said:


> I agree 100 percent. There is a chance though that most past builds didn't have this defect in the bearing as it could be a manufacturer lot issue. Here is a little better picture, not something you want to polish out or use for that matter. I advise everyone to pay attention to this bearing before using.


Haha! That would be a nice little "bump" at 13,000... Solid point. One of the "fatal flaws" of this kit is the fact that the bearings and seals come installed. Everyone would be better off if they weren't and would be smart to take them out (seals for sure) and install them correctly. I believe that Huztl thinks it would scare too many folks off.


----------



## BuckthornBonnie

Many bearings from Farmertec have issues. I’ve used a few but never in a saw I would sell. 
The clutch side is proprietary Stihl so most legitimate bearing companies do not make them for sale outside of the Stihl dealer. Your “search” for a quality bearing should start and end with Stihl. 
Some more reputable AM companies have branded bearings that probably come from China (same factory?) as well. I’ve inspected and used a few of these and they’re less likely to have issues when compared to Farmertec/Huztl, etc.


----------



## Bedford T

SK bearings are good quality and have been used by some people.

Kit Bearings have not been an issue in the 440/660 kits and I talk to people all over the world daily sometimes. There has been the issue mentioned quite a bit. Simple fix wash them out.

With every kit a new issue can arise and it can be a one off or a problem for a while and then when that the part lot clears it will vanish.

It's the nature of the beast. When you get a bad part and the part is replaced and they send you another bad one they have a lot of those bad parts. Their method to unloading a bad part is to sell it rather than replace the part in each kit they have boxed ready to ship. That has really upset me over time. They regularly blamed the employee, I said no that's Management's function. No change occurred.


chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

There has been more problems with the main bearings. But those were for entirely different and preventable reasons with the exception of their cylinders interfering

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Schmalts

So I got antsy and picked up a new bearing so I could install the side that is a pain in the ass to make a puller tool because of the left hand thread tap cost. I seen vidoes of this already but it seems they just put it in the freezer and still had to beat on the thing because they did not get it cold enough. If I missed one that did do it without beating on it sorry for the repeat. Like I said, I have used this method on many things, and valve seats in cylinder heads is one I used it the most. If you make a mixture of dry ice and acetone you can get colder than -80f easy... but you don't need it that cold for this since the press fit is not that great. I am not going to go into detail of what I used to super cool, but look online for boiling points of different things.. maybe your propane grill tank turned upside down.. wink wink (-45f), CO2 (−109.3 °F*)*, or different freons, but that would be against the laws in some countries... anyway, I made a cooling cup by putting in a hole in the bottom of a can cooler and slipped it on the shaft that was supported on a cardboard box. I used a shim with a scale wrapped in paper to get the size I needed plus the paper makes it pull out easy if you really get it seated on the tighter side. OK... my valve adjustment blades were at my shed off site.... anyway I did take a short video. I put the case half on the oven @ 185f for only 15 minutes. So, another trick I will tell but am not going to go into picture or video is when I do the other side, the gasket alignment is always something that can mess you up when you slide the other side on because you will have about 4 seconds before the bearing grabs the crank from temp normalizing. So here is what you do, you get 5 or 6 bolts that fit in the threaded side of the case but buy them as long as possible, the longer the better. Cut the heads off the bolts and chamfer the ends. You can also cut a little slot in the end to use a screwdriver to aid in removing them if for some reason they are not long enough and did not protrude out the other side. Screw what is now threaded pins into the case half, put your gasket in place (or liquid gasket, this method helps from smearing your bead all over during case half alignment) and do the super chill method but this time the other side will be guided onto the mating half in perfect alignment as it slides down the alignment pins. Hold it as tight as POSSIBLE to the mating half for at least 15 seconds to let the bearing grab the shaft and hold it!. Remove the pins one at a time and replace with the proper bolts and have a beer. I made a puller for the flywheel side, but truth is I will probably do it this way instead and use the puller if for some reason things go bad and I didn't work fast enough.


----------



## Bedford T

That's nice. If you wanted you could raise your temp to around 230 and that will give you a little better margin. Great tools 

In Germany and that don't help us here, they have an aerosol that produces extremely low temps. I could never figure out what it was but saw it work. I think heat is a good way to go, but you do have to be quick


----------



## Schmalts

. I think heat is a good way to go, but you do have to be quick[/QUOTE]


Bedford T said:


> That's nice. If you wanted you could raise your temp to around 230 and that will give you a little better margin. Great tools
> 
> In Germany and that don't help us here, they have an aerosol that produces extremely low temps. I could never figure out what it was but saw it work. I think heat is a good way to go, but you do have to be quick


The good thing is you have some time to get set up, but the clock goes into warp speed as soon as the 2 parts touch so set up is critical. That's why I suggest using the locating pins I described. I just made a set, maybe I will video the second side with them tonight. Another time I use the guide pins is when installing engine covers that have one half of the charging system so the magnets can't pull the cover to one side and lessen the chance of mucking up the gasket, or your fingers.


----------



## Marco

You guys are putting WAY to much into this.


----------



## Marco

A guy who worked for Strange when they was in Evanston teached me about bearings. He also told me about Alton Coleman who was knabbed across the street from the shop in a park.


----------



## Marco

Dana 60 rules.


----------



## Marco

You need to shrink a shaft that much to install it, when the temp stabilizes it will swell the inner race and cause the bearings to gall.


----------



## Schmalts

So the shaft will grow bigger when it stabilizes than when before it was supercooled?  Wrong. the only thing different about the end result is the way it is done. Shrinking a shaft to install it or using a press, or a puller to install it will not change the press fit one bit. The press fit is determined long before you install it by the size differences of the 2 mating parts. This is only another option to install it without using the pulling tools. It also has the advantage that when done like this for the second side you have more chance of not having any side loading on the bearing from a bearing being pressed on to little or too far. It's all fly crap differences in the end, but this is just another way for a guy to do this without making or buying tools. You can see the guide pins installed in the case half with the gasket being aligned by them as well. I pre-crushed the gasket by doing a couple torque cycles but here was little to no change in thickness to worry about. Just push as hard as you can by hand to mate the cases and hold it there for 5 seconds or so. Again, just another option, no more right or wrong than using the pulling tools but i just like this method myself.


----------



## Canyon Angler

That sudden grab of the 10k rpm screwdriver at 0:55 would give me the fantods ... what, no impact wrench available?


----------



## Schmalts

Canyon Angler said:


> That sudden grab of the 10k rpm screwdriver at 0:55 would give me the fantods ... what, no impact wrench available?


 Lol, yes there was but not the tool for me at this time. I did actually get out the torque wrench to final torque to spec after my 16 yearold son who I was explaining things to stopped the camera. This is a great father/son project if your kid is interested in this kind of thing. He wants to be an engineer, so I try to give him exposure to mechnical things.


----------



## Schmalts

Figured I would check in with what I found for squish to keep a record of how these parts are coming out of the kit. With the farmertec gasket I had .021 meaning the the piston was hitting without the gasket (I confirmed this) I have a stihl gasket set with 2 base gaskets that if I used both I would be at .034 and if I used one I would be around .017-.018ish . So, going gasketless is not an option without machining the parts, not going there. I am happy with .021, but just want to hear if you guys have had any problems with the farmertec gasket? It looks pretty nice, but want to make sure there has not been any problems with them. I will use a thin film or hylomar on it. BTW, this is the 54mm bore.


----------



## Bedford T

Schmalts said:


> Figured I would check in with what I found for squish to keep a record of how these parts are coming out of the kit. With the farmertec gasket I had .021 meaning the the piston was hitting without the gasket (I confirmed this) I have a stihl gasket set with 2 base gaskets that if I used both I would be at .034 and if I used one I would be around .017-.018ish . So, going gasketless is not an option without machining the parts, not going there. I am happy with .021, but just want to hear if you guys have had any problems with the farmertec gasket? It looks pretty nice, but want to make sure there has not been any problems with them. I will use a thin film or hylomar on it. BTW, this is the 54mm bore.


No problems with FarmerTec gaskets but issues with the big bore like free port. Using stacked gaskets is usually not a good idea. The 660 had two gaskets. .5 & 1mm the kit is .5

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

I would be very Happy with that squish, mine was .035 with no gasket. It will be interesting to see how much compression you get with that squish.
I like the idea of the guide pins. I don't know why I didn't think of that. I work on textile machinery at work and I have made several sets of guide pins in different sizes to make life easier for me. Great idea.


Schmalts said:


> Figured I would check in with what I found for squish to keep a record of how these parts are coming out of the kit. With the farmertec gasket I had .021 meaning the the piston was hitting without the gasket (I confirmed this) I have a stihl gasket set with 2 base gaskets that if I used both I would be at .034 and if I used one I would be around .017-.018ish . So, going gasketless is not an option without machining the parts, not going there. I am happy with .021, but just want to hear if you guys have had any problems with the farmertec gasket? It looks pretty nice, but want to make sure there has not been any problems with them. I will use a thin film or hylomar on it. BTW, this is the 54mm bore.



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Schmalts

That's weird. My Stihl kit 1122-007-1053 has both that are .5mm . Now after looking at it closer this must me a gasket set to fit 2 different saws and I also noticed there is 3 crank seals and the bolt pattern of the base gaskets are different so I answered my own question. So after seeing that there really is only the squish option for .021 hutzel kit gasket or .017 Stihl gasket kit. What would you pick? .017 a little to close for comfort on a plain jane build?


----------



## Bedford T

What gasket are you referring to, I was talking about the cylinder? I am unsure of what to tell you based on that

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

You might compare them to the supplied gaskets

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Schmalts said:


> That's weird. My Stihl kit 1122-007-1053 has both that are .5mm . Now after looking at it closer this must me a gasket to fit 2 different saws and I also noticed there is 3 crank seals and the bolt pattern of the base gaskets are different so I answered my own question. So after seeing that there really is only the squish option for .021 kit gasket or .017 Stihl. What would you pick? .017 a little to close for comfort on a plain jane build?


I don't know how much compression difference .004 would make. I would lean towards .021. Maybe some one with more knowledge than me will chime in.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Schmalts said:


> That's weird. My Stihl kit 1122-007-1053 has both that are .5mm . Now after looking at it closer this must me a gasket to fit 2 different saws and I also noticed there is 3 crank seals and the bolt pattern of the base gaskets are different so I answered my own question. So after seeing that there really is only the squish option for .021 kit gasket or .017 Stihl. What would you pick? .017 a little to close for comfort on a plain jane build?



The 064 and maybe the very early 066 had a narrower bolt pattern. I know the 064 used 5mm bolts also. Are the holes smaller in that one gasket? 
I would run the .021. All my old kits were .023 and run strong. 
Now if it was a 440/460 I would use the .017 squish.


----------



## Schmalts

Y


ammoaddict said:


> I would be very Happy with that squish, mine was .035 with no gasket. It will be interesting to see how much compression you get with that squish.
> I like the idea of the guide pins. I don't know why I didn't think of that. I work on textile machinery at work and I have made several sets of guide pins in different sizes to make life easier for me. Great idea.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


 .035 with no gasket... wow that sure is a wide range they are making these things at. Mine hit the chamber on the top, your is a mile away.
Probably one of best uses I ever did with the guide pins is when I was alone and trying to re-install a 3 point lift back on the rear diff of my tractor I had one shot to drop that thing down on the gasket without messing it up, the 3 point was over 100 pounds and those guide pins made it painless.. except for my back Great thing is they cost next to nothing to make.


----------



## Schmalts

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> The 064 and maybe the very early 066 had a narrower bolt pattern. I know the 064 used 5mm bolts also. Are the holes smaller in that one gasket?
> I would run the .021. All my old kits were .023 and run strong.
> Now if it was a 440/460 I would use the .017 squish.


 Yep, the hole was slightly smaller in the one gasket. So the kit must be for both the 066 and the 660. Sounds like the crank seal on the 066 was different as well hence the 3rd seal


----------



## Bedford T

I went looking for the bolt size I am going to mention below and saw this. First time I noticed it, and we have been complaining and it turns out Stihl thinks its a good idea.





















to have some low cost case guides the manual suggests 5mx72m t27 screws. i have 3 and they come in handy


----------



## Schmalts

Bedford T said:


> I went looking for the bolt size I am going to mention below and saw this. First time I noticed it, and we have been complaining and it turns out Stihl thinks its a good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 666583
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to have some low cost case guides the manual suggests 5mx72m t27 screws. i have 3 and they come in handy
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 666587


Why not cut the heads of and taper them a little to turn them into pins?


----------



## Bedford T

Schmalts said:


> Why not cut the heads of and taper them a little to turn them into pins?


Could Why not?

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Anybody using a Stihl lite bar. I want a 32" and I think the light bar would be a great choice. Can't find one in stock where I can touch it. Twice the cost.

I read they are Ridgid. I want a better balanced bar. The longer the bars the more the saw tips at rest. My 440 would really benefit although from a shorter bar. I think it looks cool too

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

I was keeping this kit as parts for the 3 saw I gave to different people, but I’m thinking I may build it. 
I’ll list the oem parts I use and I want to try and keep up with its cost. 
And the brake spring was correct, I was surprised. Are the bags still labeled in the current kits? 
This Kits going to be called “Dusty” and I’m going to stamp it in the serial # slot.


----------



## Bedford T

Brake band is even right, I recall HL corrected the kits and that's why it's got the right spring, plus labeled the bags. Cool

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Schmalts

Bedford T said:


> Anybody using a Stihl lite bar. I want a 32" and I think the light bar would be a great choice. Can't find one in stock where I can touch it. Twice the cost.
> 
> I read they are Ridgid. I want a better balanced bar. The longer the bars the more the saw tips at rest. My 440 would really benefit although from a shorter bar. I think it looks cool too
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I'd just be happy if the 2 bars I paid for with the Hutzl kit showed up. I ordered the 28 inch for the build and a 16 inch for my 023. I keep getting the same tracking number of the parts that did show up and asked how a 28 inch bar fits in a 21 inch box


----------



## Schmalts

Bedford T said:


> Brake band is even right, I recall HL corrected the kits and that's why it's got the right spring, plus labeled the bags. Cool
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I take it my farmertec kit brake is high probability of being wrong?


----------



## Bedford T

Schmalts said:


> I'd just be happy if the 2 bars I paid for with the Hutzl kit showed up. I ordered the 28 inch for the build and a 16 inch for my 023. I keep getting the same tracking number of the parts thatdid show up and asked how a 28 inch bar fits in a 21 inch box


A tracking can have multiple packages, I think. Write them. I have the 28 and I like it. The tree I am looking @ is a little bigger. I don't want to cut from both sides. It will come wrapped like a mummy

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Schmalts said:


> I take it my farmertec kit brake is high probability of being wrong?


Look at the pin. If the pin is there you are good most likely

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

I checked the squish on Dusty and its .0235 with a farmer gasket. 
I check it in 6 different spots on the piston and they were all within a thousand so I feel the base and squish are pretty flat.


----------



## Bedford T

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> I checked the squish on Dusty and its .0235 with a farmer gasket.
> I check it in 6 different spots on the piston and they were all within a thousand so I feel the base and squish are pretty flat.


What brand cylinder are you using?

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

The kit cylinder that came with it from HL


----------



## Bedford T

Just setting the stage. That kit is about a year old. The reason that matters is those of us that track them that was produced before we started having larger problems and may have gone though some type quailty control which we know does not exist when ordering from huztl.

That cylinder sounds like a runner. Cool.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## xd40sw

Bedford T said:


> Just setting the stage. That kit is about a year old. The reason that matters is those of us that track them that was produced before we started having larger problems and may have gone though some type quailty control which we know does not exist when ordering from huztl.
> 
> That cylinder sounds like a runner. Cool.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



When you say larger problems what exactly are you referring to? I recently ordered one of these kits. Obviously I don’t expect it to be OEM quality, I’m mainly after the experience of building from the ground up. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

xd40sw said:


> When you say larger problems what exactly are you referring to? I recently ordered one of these kits. Obviously I don’t expect it to be OEM quality, I’m mainly after the experience of building from the ground up.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


welcome, Great you will learn a lot. Have you been reading? The kits suffer from a lack of quality control. Generally it has changed over time from one thing to the next. You just make a decision on how to over come what you run up on 

That comment was referencing his cylinder that had good geometry to the average recent one that do not. When we started out you had to sand the roughness away and deal with large squish, which is ok. To give you a overall sense.

If you measure yours and report it we will have more up to date info. If you don't have the tools don't sweat it 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## xd40sw

Bedford,

Thanks. I’m starting to read through all the previous posts now. 

What are you guys measuring on the new cylinders?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

xd40sw said:


> Bedford,
> 
> Thanks. I’m starting to read through all the previous posts now.
> 
> What are you guys measuring on the new cylinders?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You won't have the tools unless you are Machinist. it's hard to measure a two-cycle cylinder Because of the ports. But you can set it on a flat surface like glass and see if it rocks. And you could measure squish, which generally is the space between the piston and the top of the cylinder with solder. And you could look at ring gap, space between tips of rings. 

I have a website with lots of info on the kits and some assembly videos.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Take away this, break in is real important

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

this video is on measuring a 2 cycle. its fun to know.


----------



## xd40sw

I’m not a machinist, but I bought a machinist’s toolbox.... I have micrometers up to 4”, but I think my telescoping gauge set only goes up to 1.5”. It’s an old General set. I’ll check when I get home. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Bedford T said:


> Just setting the stage. That kit is about a year old. The reason that matters is those of us that track them that was produced before we started having larger problems and may have gone though some type quailty control which we know does not exist when ordering from huztl.
> 
> That cylinder sounds like a runner. Cool.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



How far out were your cylinders in years past? The first one had scoring and low compression right?


----------



## Bedford T

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> How far out were your cylinders in years past? The first one had scoring and low compression right?


I junked them and you know that. Replacing them made more sense to me than getting the tools. I took one to a machine shop and he said he it was junk and he would not take time to look at it. I am not interested in the least in working on a cylinder to make it right.

The two saws you sold you put a meteor and hyway on them. Your buddy fixed the cross for you. 

So why the question?

Add on.
If someone is curious as many have been measuring is done. If you want to see if your 20$ cylinder will cause you trouble measuring would be a good idea. Again putting another on is my preferred shortcut. It's kinda of an important part


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Bedford T said:


> The two saws you sold you put a meteor and hyway on them. Your buddy fixed the cross for you.



The 3 saws I did were all different. The first I put a stock meteor. 
The second I put a stock huztl cleaned up. 
The third I put a ported huztl on. 

The cross is on a 064
And the hyway BB was on a Stihl 440. 

The ported saw is running 185psi 
I didn’t want to push it with 200.


----------



## xd40sw

Bedford T said:


> You won't have the tools unless you are Machinist. it's hard to measure a two-cycle cylinder Because of the ports. But you can set it on a flat surface like glass and see if it rocks. And you could measure squish, which generally is the space between the piston and the top of the cylinder with solder. And you could look at ring gap, space between tips of rings.
> 
> I have a website with lots of info on the kits and some assembly videos.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy




That was a bold statement...







I do have the tools. Yet I’m not a machinist. Just kidding, no disrespect intended...

Looks like my telescope gauge will be just about maxed out though, but it should work. It says it goes up to 2 1/8. I’ll pull some cylinder measurements when I have a few minutes to spend out in the shop. I’m trying to catch up on yard work at the moment. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

Lol, that is cool you have the tools. I love tools.


xd40sw said:


> That was a bold statement...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have the tools. Yet I’m not a machinist. Just kidding, no disrespect intended...
> 
> Looks like my telescope gauge will be just about maxed out though, but it should work. It says it goes up to 2 1/8. I’ll pull some cylinder measurements when I have a few minutes to spend out in the shop. I’m trying to catch up on yard work at the moment.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## xd40sw

My micrometer only reads in inches. That’s what I took my measurements in, but I used WolframAlpha to convert to metric. 

Piston: 2.123” or 53.924mm
Cylinder Bore: 2.126” or 54mm

I checked multiple spots in the cylinder bore, going from top to bottom. Readings were consistent.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Roobarb

Got to start on my saw today, got crankcase together and did a dummy fit of piston with no gasket and piston hit at TDC
Put the supplied gasket in and it cleared cylinder but only just, measured with thin piece of solder and was paper thin like 0.07”. What are my options without buying another cylinder or getting machined. I have a 2nd steel gasket, is it possible to use both with sealant ? Or could make one from 1mm gasket material and use sealant ?
Not really sure what to do now.


----------



## Bedford T

Are you certain of the second measurement? They do make a 1mm gasket 1122 029 2306. 

A gasket sandwich should be avoided


Roobarb said:


> Got to start on my saw today, got crankcase together and did a dummy fit of piston with no gasket and piston hit at TDC
> Put the supplied gasket in and it cleared cylinder but only just, measured with thin piece of solder and was paper thin like 0.07”. What are my options without buying another cylinder or getting machined. I have a 2nd steel gasket, is it possible to use both with sealant ? Or could make one from 1mm gasket material and use sealant ?
> Not really sure what to do now.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Roobarb said:


> Got to start on my saw today, got crankcase together and did a dummy fit of piston with no gasket and piston hit at TDC
> Put the supplied gasket in and it cleared cylinder but only just, measured with thin piece of solder and was paper thin like 0.07”. What are my options without buying another cylinder or getting machined. I have a 2nd steel gasket, is it possible to use both with sealant ? Or could make one from 1mm gasket material and use sealant ?
> Not really sure what to do now.


Wow, that is really tight squish. It seems the cylinders have gone from one extreme to the other. Mine was .065 with gasket. I would rather have your problem than mine. I would get a thicker gasket. The only problem I see with 2 gaskets is it's adding another place for a possible leak, but I am no expert as some of these guys on here are.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

Lol, that is so true. From one extreme to the other if he is sure of the second reading. You need more room than a gasket provides. The gasket should be a supplement. But, it is what it is.

I am ready to see some blue ones.


ammoaddict said:


> Wow, that is really tight squish. It seems the cylinders have gone from one extreme to the other. Mine was .065 with gasket. I would rather have your problem than mine. I would get a thicker gasket. The only problem I see with 2 gaskets is it's adding another place for a possible leak, but I am no expert as some of these guys on here are.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

His measurement of .070 with the gasket is a lot. Shouldn’t hit if he takes away the .5mm or .020 gasket. Measurements off somewhere.


----------



## ammoaddict

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> His measurement of .070 with the gasket is a lot. Shouldn’t hit if he takes away the .5mm or .020 gasket. Measurements off somewhere.


I misread the post. I guess I need to get my reading glasses. I read it as .007 not 0.07
And you are right, that doesn't add up.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Roobarb

Yeah sorry I missed a zero I meant about 0.007 with the supplied steel gasket, was a dummy ft with no rings but had it bolted down but not tight either. Had some 1mm gasket material at work so will try that, parts take a week to arrive from local shop but will order the correct lager gasket.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

That 1mm gasket should put you in there where you want to be as far as the squish. Raising and lowering the cylinder throws around the port timing hope it’s close. 
Post some vids when you get it cutting


----------



## ammoaddict

I'm trying to understand port timing. I have never used a degree wheel.
What effect on timing would it have since all the ports are being raised or lowered the same amount as a unit?


X 66 Stang347 X said:


> That 1mm gasket should put you in there where you want to be as far as the squish. Raising and lowering the cylinder throws around the port timing hope it’s close.
> Post some vids when you get it cutting



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

You might want a plan B. I have seen the gaskets on eBay. Your dealer may not have the gasket and their distributor may not have it. So don't become alarmed you can't get it immediately. They certainly can order it for you.


Roobarb said:


> Yeah sorry I missed a zero I meant about 0.007 with the supplied steel gasket, was a dummy ft with no rings but had it bolted down but not tight either. Had some 1mm gasket material at work so will try that, parts take a week to arrive from local shop but will order the correct lager gasket.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

ammoaddict said:


> I'm trying to understand port timing. I have never used a degree wheel.
> What effect on timing would it have since all the ports are being raised or lowered the same amount as a unit?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



Mainly the intake and exhaust will be effected. I never got into changing the port timing, I have a degree wheel when I check my ign. Advance. I normally like around 8-10°.


----------



## ammoaddict

So you put the degree wheel on the clutch side and see what it's on when the flywheel magnet engages the coil?


X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Mainly the intake and exhaust will be effected. I never got into changing the port timing, I have a degree wheel when I check my ign. Advance. I normally like around 8-10°.



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

I had mine on the flywheel side mounted to a puller. I was checking how much I would take off the keyway.


----------



## William Prophett

Everybody is doing all these "base gasket deletes" and "trying to get to .020 squish" without any regard for timing numbers. The best solution to a .007 squish number (if its accurate) is to sand down the squish band. While that sounds scary to most, it is actually pretty simple. Watch Matt Olsens videos about how he does it. Basically, get a cheap FT piston (assuming you don't have a spare junk one), glue or tape some abrasive disk or sandpaper to the top, drop it in the cylinder and spin it with some type of DIY mandrel until you knock off about 13 thou on the squish band and you are at .020 with the stock gasket.


----------



## Roobarb

Thanks for the reply’s, I managed to make a gasket and after dummy fit and check it is showing 0.025 squish, so hopefully it seals up ok.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

One of my saws came back and it’s a little flatter than when i last seen it. It got pinched and the tree rolled over it. The oem top handle is bent and the airbox is crushed along with a bushing. 
Other than that its ok. This one has the stock Farmer cylinder.


----------



## Bedford T

The original 440 cylinder I removed sunday was great. We have proof they are capable. They just don't have legs

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> The original 440 cylinder I removed sunday was great. We have proof they are capable. They just don't have legs
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Bedford, a few posts back you encouraged everyone to contact huztl about the bad parts they received it the kits. Well I did that almost a month ago and have gotten no where so far. I emailed them about the chain adjuster, the broken decomp, the no fast idle, and the leaking gas cap.
Got email back "so sorry, don't worry we are here to help"
No further response for days. I emailed back asking if they had sent the parts.
Got email back. "Can you double check to see if parts work normally"
I emailed back, yes I double checked, parts are bad. No response for 5 days. I emailed again asking for replacements.
Got email back, " can you kindly send picture of the parts" I took pictures and send them. No response for days. I emailed again asking if they had sent the parts. Got email back, "about your leaking gas cap, can you try some silicone sealant on it'. 
I emailed back saying I tried it and still leaking.
They emailed back saying " gas cap leaking and all other part work normally?"
I replied back saying no the other parts don't work normally, they are bad.
No response. I emailed back asking for replacements again. They emailed back, "can you shoot a video of the leaking gas cap. If we have video we can know how to further help you"
Can you believe that? Do I give up or keep after them?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

I believe it and it makes me mad as hell. That's why I get so damn irritated.

On my website I have step by step instructions. They will string you along and run the PayPal clock out if you go a different direction.

I hate this happened to you. There is only one way to deal with them. We have allowed this to go on to long. It takes a village to correct bad behavior like this.


ammoaddict said:


> Bedford, a few posts back you encouraged everyone to contact huztl about the bad parts they received it the kits. Well I did that almost a month ago and have gotten no where so far. I emailed them about the chain adjuster, the broken decomp, the no fast idle, and the leaking gas cap.
> Got email back "so sorry, don't worry we are here to help"
> No further response for days. I emailed back asking if they had sent the parts.
> Got email back. "Can you double check to see if parts work normally"
> I emailed back, yes I double checked, parts are bad. No response for 5 days. I emailed again asking for replacements.
> Got email back, " can you kindly send picture of the parts" I took pictures and send them. No response for days. I emailed again asking if they had sent the parts. Got email back, "about your leaking gas cap, can you try some silicone sealant on it'.
> I emailed back saying I tried it and still leaking.
> They emailed back saying " gas cap leaking and all other part work normally?"
> I replied back saying no the other parts don't work normally, they are bad.
> No response. I emailed back asking for replacements again. They emailed back, "can you shoot a video of the leaking gas cap. If we have video we can know how to further help you"
> Can you believe that? Do I give up or keep after them?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

How long is the PayPal clock?


Bedford T said:


> I believe it and it makes me mad as hell. That's why I get so damn irritated.
> 
> On my website I have step by step instructions. They will string you along and run the PayPal clock out if you go a different direction.
> 
> I hate this happened to you. There is only one way to deal with them. We have allowed this to go on to long. It takes a village to correct bad behavior like this.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Schmalts

ammoaddict said:


> Bedford, a few posts back you encouraged everyone to contact huztl about the bad parts they received it the kits. Well I did that almost a month ago and have gotten no where so far. I emailed them about the chain adjuster, the broken decomp, the no fast idle, and the leaking gas cap.
> Got email back "so sorry, don't worry we are here to help"
> No further response for days. I emailed back asking if they had sent the parts.
> Got email back. "Can you double check to see if parts work normally"
> I emailed back, yes I double checked, parts are bad. No response for 5 days. I emailed again asking for replacements.
> Got email back, " can you kindly send picture of the parts" I took pictures and send them. No response for days. I emailed again asking if they had sent the parts. Got email back, "about your leaking gas cap, can you try some silicone sealant on it'.
> I emailed back saying I tried it and still leaking.
> They emailed back saying " gas cap leaking and all other part work normally?"
> I replied back saying no the other parts don't work normally, they are bad.
> No response. I emailed back asking for replacements again. They emailed back, "can you shoot a video of the leaking gas cap. If we have video we can know how to further help you"
> Can you believe that? Do I give up or keep after them?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Sounds like me. Crappy chain adjuster, leaking gas cap, no fast idle. Fyi, I was able to cure my fast idle cam_arm with a heat gun and pull and with a pliers to stretch it .040 in length to make it work.


----------



## Bedford T

90 days I think


ammoaddict said:


> How long is the PayPal clock?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Good to know. Thanks
Have you contacted huztl about the problems?


Schmalts said:


> Sounds like me. Crappy chain adjuster, leaking gas cap, no fadt idle. Fyi, I was able to hear my fast idle cam_arm with a heat gun and pull and with a pliers to stretch it .040 in length to make it work.



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> 90 days I think
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


According to huztl.net, I ordered on 05-01-18

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

I am not going to get twisted up here. I laid out a plan and published it. Rest is up to you. You must think they don't understand, lol


ammoaddict said:


> Good to know. Thanks
> Have you contacted huztl about the problems?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

See they strung you out. Over some cheap parts. How does that make you feel to have that much time invested and got no where.


ammoaddict said:


> According to huztl.net, I ordered on 05-01-18
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Ain't right

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Schmalts

ammoaddict said:


> Good to know. Thanks
> Have you contacted huztl about the problems?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


No I replace the gas cap with one from Amazon and the other parts I wrote off as being junk and modified


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> I am not going to get twisted up here. I laid out a plan and published it. Rest is up to you. You must think they don't understand, lol
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I read your whole website months ago when I was thinking about ordering a kit.
But honestly I can't remember everything it said since it has been so long since I read it.
I just checked PayPal and it said I had until October to report a problem. I will give huztl a few more days, then I will file a claim through PayPal.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

Schmalts said:


> No I replace the gas cap with one from Amazon and the other parts I wrote off as being junk and modified


I ordered a cheap Chinese cap and chain adjuster from eBay, they both work. If others can do it, huztl can do it.
It's just the principal of the thing that makes me mad.
I doubt I will ever order from them again because of it.
It makes no sense why a business would take a chance on losing a customer over a few dollars worth of parts.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

I would complain and see what they said.
Bedford is right, if we all complain, they may get the message.


Schmalts said:


> No I replace the gas cap with one from Amazon and the other parts I wrote off as being junk and modified



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

And work so hard at it. They have a routine and they stick to it.



ammoaddict said:


> It makes no sense why a business would take a chance on losing a customer over a few dollars worth of parts.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk





chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Your lack of knowledge about how they are paid is striking. My suggestion will in fact stop them in their tracks every time. Follow the plan.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Schmalts

I emailed them about the gas cap. Here is the response i got. 
"Hi sir,
Sorry about the problem.
Have you assmebled the cap well?
The cap could be moved if you don't install well, so hope you can double check."

My cap leaks out of where the screw driver slot is, not the tank gasket area.


----------



## Schmalts

I am using the air filter that came with the kit. I am a little surprised of the coarse foam insert. You guys eliminating that? Seems a little odd having the coarse foam after the paper pleats instead of the other way around. Is it for noise?


----------



## ammoaddict

Mine leaks around the flat gasket. You can see it bubbling out and running down the tank. I sent them a video and their response was" we see your tank is leaking not the cap, so which is it indeed?"
The cap I ordered on eBay has an Oring instead of a flat gasket and it does not leak.


Schmalts said:


> I emailed them about the gas cap. Here is the response i got.
> "Hi sir,
> Sorry about the problem.
> Have you assmebled the cap well?
> The cap could be moved if you don't install well, so hope you can double check."
> 
> My cap leaks out of where the screw driver slot is, not the tank gasket area.



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

Mine did not have a foam insert only the paper filter.


Schmalts said:


> I am using the air filter that came with the kit. I am a little surprised of the coarse foam insert. You guys eliminating that? Seems a little odd having the coarse foam after the paper pleats instead of the other way around. Is it for noise?



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

Schmalts said:


> I am using the air filter that came with the kit. I am a little surprised of the coarse foam insert. You guys eliminating that? Seems a little odd having the coarse foam after the paper pleats instead of the other way around. Is it for noise?


The foam insert is there to keep the filter from getting wet with fuel from blowback. There is a small amount of fuel air mix that blows back through the intake circuit during the stroke.


----------



## William Prophett

ammoaddict said:


> Mine did not have a foam insert only the paper filter.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


The high flow filter system for these saws comes with a plastic baffle that the filter sits on top of. If you get this system, the baffle keeps the filter from getting soaked with fuel. If you are running a kit paper element, you really should have the foam insert or the filter is gonna het messy.


----------



## Bedford T

You open A PayPal and they withhold payment until they sort out the problem. They will pay attention Everytime 

Have no idea how you handled it. I referred to my plan. Using the system.


dswensen said:


> I am so tired of your gas, I have had enough. You have no idea what I know. I have been working on saws for years - long before you showed up here and starting trying to tell everybody what to do and think.
> 
> Your "plan" is BS - as is obvious to anyone with any sense of reality. Stop them in their tracks every time huh? Sure doesn't seem to be working to me.
> 
> Goodbye to you and good riddance.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## 67L36Driver

Schmalts said:


> I am using the air filter that came with the kit. I am a little surprised of the coarse foam insert. You guys eliminating that? Seems a little odd having the coarse foam after the paper pleats instead of the other way around. Is it for noise?



AFAIK, that foam catch’s spit back. Keeps it off the paper filter.


----------



## Bedford T

With and without









chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

I told you wrong. Mine does have the black foam insert. I had forgotten about it. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Schmalts

67L36Driver said:


> AFAIK, that foam catch’s spit back. Keeps it off the paper filter.


 Cool thanks, after a lot of assumptions that's what I came up with for the only excuse to have it.


----------



## Bedford T

i got a shock. knew they were coming. Walmart started.

the order shows a tv remote, the cost and the duty calls it a merchandise fee .246872% ouch. thats going hurt on parts and saws. i bet that sales tax is applied to the amount, raising it above .25%


----------



## 2412

That looks like a lot more than a quarter of a percent.


----------



## Bedford T

25%

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ab2

It's *2*% : of the _tire_ cost.

Very likely the NC State environmental.


----------



## Bedford T

Lol, your wrong. 

From Walmart

What is a merchandising fee?
The *fee* is based on the value of the *merchandise*being imported, not including duty, freight, and insurance *charges*. The maximum amount of the *fee*shall not exceed $485 and shall not be less than $25. ... MPF for informal entries is a set *fee* and ranges from $2.00, $6.00 or $9.00 per shipment.Nov 16, 2017



ab2 said:


> It's *2*% : of the _tire_ cost.
> 
> Very likely the NC State environmental.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ab2

OK, but it's a curious coincidence that the 2% applies to tires in NC. If you look elsewhere, you will find customers complaining about the fee for tires, also under 'merchandising fee'


----------



## Bedford T

Still the explanation.. import fee. I called and CS told me it applied to remote. Guess they were wrong it includes tires.


ab2 said:


> View attachment 669556



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ab2

It's the NC tire environmental fee, whatever they label it. 
Same items, different address (say, NH, where there are tire disposal fees if you have them fitted, otherwise none) & the 'merchandising fee' is removed, just like the taxes.


----------



## Bedford T

I gave you their definition for the fee. Ingore it all you want. I tend to read and apply information based on fact, like a published definition. My initial post was not for you to educate me on buying tires. It was about import fees. The published definition explains the "import" relationship. I will ingore your continued posts on the matter


ab2 said:


> It's the NC tire environmental fee, whatever they label it.
> Same items, different address (say, NH, where there are tire disposal fees if you have them fitted, otherwise none) & the 'merchandising fee' is removed, just like the taxes.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ab2

Right  : It's an import fee of 2% that only applies to tires bought for delivery/collection in NC; & walmart CustService & website are always right. Just as you say.


----------



## ssm1699

Well as I said in the original thread, I ordered my kit on 8/6. It finally cleared customs Friday evening, after getting there 8/11. Hopefully I see it tomorrow, based on my tracking. We will see how it goes from there.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Got my parts in so I started replacing the crushed parts. He said the handle started getting loose before the tree got it,So I think these 2 bushings ripped before hand and I replaced them with oem. 
The piston and cylinder also looked better than I was expecting. It only runs a 36” bar. You can tell she’s rode hard


----------



## Bedford T

He keeps it oiled


X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Got my parts in so I started replacing the crushed parts. He said the handle started getting loose before the tree got it,So I think these 2 bushings ripped before hand. I replaced them with oem.
> The piston and cylinder also looked better than I was expecting. It only runs a 36” bar. You can tell she’s rode hard



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

He definitely does. . I don’t think I put the HO pump in this one I’ll swap it while I’m at it.


----------



## ammoaddict

It definitely looks rode hard. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## 67L36Driver

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> He definitely does. . I don’t think I put the HO pump in this one I’ll swap it while I’m at it.



Part number and/or link to HO pump?

My client needs one on there for milling.


----------



## Bedford T

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Pump-G...422544?hash=item1a48605550:g:uiUAAOSwcgNZJYDg

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

67L36Driver said:


> Part number and/or link to HO pump?
> 
> My client needs one on there for milling.


Some one did a thread on how to modify a regular pump into a high output one. The only difference is the piston - control bolt or whatever you call it. I can't remember who posted it, it could have been on the other forum. They took it out and did some grinding on it in the right places.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Bedford T said:


> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Pump-G...422544?hash=item1a48605550:g:uiUAAOSwcgNZJYDg
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



I believe that’s the same one. All 4 of mine had the same name that started with a S I think. I’ll look tomorrow


----------



## Bedford T

From Ireland. It's the one I sent you


X 66 Stang347 X said:


> I believe that’s the same one. All 4 of mine had the same name that started with a S I think. I’ll look tomorrow



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## 67L36Driver

ammoaddict said:


> Some one did a thread on how to modify a regular pump into a high output one. The only difference is the piston - control bolt or whatever you call it. I can't remember who posted it, it could have been on the other forum. They took it out and did some grinding on it in the right places.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



The pitch/angle of the piston ramp determines the displacement. Stop bolt has little effect.

Thanks for the link.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

ammoaddict said:


> Some one did a thread on how to modify a regular pump into a high output one. The only difference is the piston - control bolt or whatever you call it. I can't remember who posted it, it could have been on the other forum. They took it out and did some grinding on it in the right places.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



I think you can do a 1/2 a oil pump mod unless you get the pump shaft for more movement. The control bolt can be ground on. For $15 I’d replace it with the cheap HO. Out of the three I’ve used only one failed.


----------



## 67L36Driver

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> I think you can do a 1/2 a oil pump mod unless you get the pump shaft for more movement. The control bolt can be ground on. For $15 I’d replace it with the cheap HO. Out of the three I’ve used only one failed.




The ‘stop bolt’ can only limit the pump output. The pitch/angle determines the maximum travel and thus the displacement.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Bedford T said:


> From Ireland. It's the one I sent you
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



The one I got from you must be a bad batch I hope. I have one more to try. 
The odds aren’t good so far 2 out of 4 doesn’t work.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Well my last HO pump would barley pump also. I put the regular one back on and it pumps fine so I’m sticking with it.


----------



## Bedford T

Your posts make no sense. I sent you my extra to replace your bad one



X 66 Stang347 X said:


> I think you can do a 1/2 a oil pump mod unless you get the pump shaft for more movement. The control bolt can be ground on. For $15 I’d replace it with the cheap HO. Out of the three I’ve used only one failed.




chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

See above


X 66 Stang347 X said:


> The one I got from you must be a bad batch I hope. I have one more to try.
> The odds aren’t good so far 2 out of 4 doesn’t work.




chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

And your math is off. Shall we say evolving


Bedford T said:


> See above
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

My math is 3 out of 5 didn’t work.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Bedford T said:


> Your posts make no sense. I sent you my extra to replace your bad one
> 
> 
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Yes I bought it from you and the company sent me another for the one that didn’t work in the video


----------



## Bedford T

Truth is not the truth 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Bedford T said:


> Truth is not the truth
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Do you want them for proof? I’m not contacting them about it now it’s been to long. I’ll find one when I need it


----------



## Spring1898

Has anyone checked the new 660 kits from Huztl. They have blue plastic...
Also currently 20% off, so an extra $20 off or so
Orange plastic still for sale separately


----------



## ammoaddict

Spring1898 said:


> Has anyone checked the new 660 kits from Huztl. They have blue plastic...
> Also currently 20% off, so an extra $20 off or so
> Orange plastic still for sale separately


I just looked at it. The carb box on the tank handle was still orange and the three covers were blue. A few bucks cheaper than the all orange kit. There were 10% off when I just looked. The 440 kits had the blue as well. Very interesting.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

My kit is finally out for delivery. I will have it today. The fun begins.


----------



## ammoaddict

It is fun, but can be frustrating. I hope it goes well for you.


ssm1699 said:


> My kit is finally out for delivery. I will have it today. The fun begins.



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

I am sure it is frustrating. I will be taking my time on this, despite wanting to get it done fast. I have plenty of other projects going right now. So this will be done as I have time. I saw that people are saying the kits are coming with blue covers and plastics. I will post up of what my kit comes with.



ammoaddict said:


> It is fun, but can be frustrating. I hope it goes well for you.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapa


----------



## ammoaddict

ssm1699 said:


> I am sure it is frustrating. I will be taking my time on this, despite wanting to get it done fast. I have plenty of other projects going right now. So this will be done as I have time. I saw that people are saying the kits are coming with blue covers and plastics. I will post up of what my kit comes with.


That what I did on mine. I would work on it a few minutes in the evenings after work if I didn't have other things that had to be done. It was fun, challenging and very rewarding when I got it all together and it actually cranked up and ran.
On huztl website it shows 2 different kits, one all orange and one with the blue covers.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

ammoaddict said:


> That what I did on mine. I would work on it a few minutes in the evenings after work if I didn't have other things that had to be done. It was fun, challenging and very rewarding when I got it all together and it actually cranked up and ran.
> On huztl website it shows 2 different kits, one all orange and one with the blue covers.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



When I ordered, they only listed the orange kit. Now, that doesn't mean that they won't switch parts out or something to that effect. So, we will see what I get. I am really looking forward to this. One of my projects is getting my FS85 up and running. I picked it up for $20. Got it running but then it died. Pulled the muffler off it and the p&c where scored on the exhaust side. It was blowing 80PSI on a comp test. Gotta get the yard cleaned up so that I can paint and do some concrete work.


----------



## ammoaddict

ssm1699 said:


> When I ordered, they only listed the orange kit. Now, that doesn't mean that they won't switch parts out or something to that effect. So, we will see what I get. I am really looking forward to this. One of my projects is getting my FS85 up and running. I picked it up for $20. Got it running but then it died. Pulled the muffler off it and the p&c where scored on the exhaust side. It was blowing 80PSI on a comp test. Gotta get the yard cleaned up so that I can paint and do some concrete work.


Yep, you never know what you will get from those people. Customer service is not one of their strong points either.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

Well, my kit was just delivered and it is all orange plastics. It looks like everything is there, compared to what others have said is missing for parts. But I haven't done a full inventory yet. I will note that one thing everyone has said that their kits were missing, that mine has, is the foil for under the muffler. My cylinder looks pretty good, from what I can tell. I will try to post some pics alittle later.

Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

Awesome, my kit did not have the foil.


ssm1699 said:


> Well, my kit was just delivered and it is all orange plastics. It looks like everything is there, compared to what others have said is missing for parts. But I haven't done a full inventory yet. I will note that one thing everyone has said that their kits were missing, that mine has, is the foil for under the muffler. My cylinder looks pretty good, from what I can tell. I will try to post some pics alittle later.
> 
> Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

The one thing I found interesting was the clutch cover came with the bucking spikes already assembled, with the chain catcher attached to it as well. The pin is in the brake band. Not sure if I got the correct spring though. Not going to use it, but also found it interesting that the spark plug says it is a Bosch brand plug.

Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

ssm1699 said:


> The one thing I found interesting was the clutch cover came with the bucking spikes already assembled, with the chain catcher attached to it as well. The pin is in the brake band. Not sure if I got the correct spring though. Not going to use it, but also found it interesting that the spark plug says it is a Bosch brand plug.
> 
> Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


Wow, they are stepping up their game.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

ammoaddict said:


> Wow, they are stepping up their game.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Maybe enough complaints, has kicked them in the rear to make things better?????

Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

I hope so. I am not real happy with the one I have, but I haven't used it much, maybe it will get better. I have been trying to get a few parts replaced for mine and it's been over a month. They asked for pictures and videos of the bad parts. I sent everything they asked for but they still haven't shipped any parts.


ssm1699 said:


> Maybe enough complaints, has kicked them in the rear to make things better?????
> 
> Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Spring1898

If you paid with paypal, you can open a case. If you paid with credit card you can go through them.

I can appreciate missing or receiving some substandard parts for the pricepoint, but delaying the appropriate restitution should not be tolerated


----------



## ssm1699

Here are some pics of parts I got.




































Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

Spring1898 said:


> If you paid with paypal, you can open a case. If you paid with credit card you can go through them.
> 
> I can appreciate missing or receiving some substandard parts for the pricepoint, but delaying the appropriate restitution should not be tolerated


Right, it's the point of the matter. If I had gotten a top notch cylinder like the latest ones have been, I probably wouldn't have even complained about a few inferior parts. But it just the principal that I paid for parts that are supposed to work. I didn't expect oem quality but I did expect every part to be usable. If people don't complain, their quality will get worse instead of better.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

Well, I got some work done on my build. My case and crank are together. I haven't centered my crank in the case yet. But I did determine that with the supplied base gasket, my squish is about .037". I measured the thickness of the gasket and it is .022". The only thing is that it isn't the normal gasket that I have been seeing. It it stamped out of the same material as the case gasket. I do have a Hyway gasket set coming, mostlet for the oil seals. But I figured it wouldn't hurt to have extras of the others. It looks like it should have the metal gasket. I will probably use the thinner of the 2 gaskets. The bottom end feels nice and smooth though. I am very happy so far. I did have to clearance the outside of the transfer port on the flywheel side though. It now is sitting flat on the case. When I first started, squish on that side was about .044" and the other side was about .036". I also could see a gap at the base. I tried going without a base gasket, but could hear the piston hitting at the top. It would do a full revolution, but hit everytime the piston hit tdc. We will see how things go from here. Probably won't be able to work on it tomorrow night. But, we will see.

Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

What bits are everyone using to clean up their P&C?


----------



## ammoaddict

ssm1699 said:


> What bits are everyone using to clean up their P&C?


I just used sandpaper on my finger to knock off the sharp edges.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

If your piston is hitting the squish band at tdc without the gasket, and the gasket is .022, how do you come up with .037? Should be no more than 22 thou...


----------



## ssm1699

William Prophett said:


> If your piston is hitting the squish band at tdc without the gasket, and the gasket is .022, how do you come up with .037? Should be no more than 22 thou...


It is a very light hit, without the gasket. But it is able to still go through the full stroke. It may be a spot in the squish band that is thicker than the rest. Not sure though. I see why you are questioning, but it wasn't like I couldn't turn everything through full cycle, without the gasket.

Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## Hilljack06

Still cant figure why you guys waste more $ and time on chinese junk than just buying a used version of the real thing.


----------



## William Prophett

Hilljack06 said:


> Still cant figure why you guys waste more $ and time on chinese junk than just buying a used version of the real thing.


Still can't figure out why if you think two 99cc saw that work every day and made me $1200 dollars in the last 3 days are "chinese junk", that you would be reading this thread.... ****ing troll.


----------



## ammoaddict

Hilljack06 said:


> Still cant figure why you guys waste more $ and time on chinese junk than just buying a used version of the real thing.


I have about 320 in mine. I have not seen any decent used ones for anywhere close to that. And if you have to ask why, then you just wouldn't understand anyway.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

Maybe because some of us can't afford to purchase a semi decent used original for the money we have in these. Also, maybe we enjoy the challenge and pride of getting a box of parts and building a working machine that is pretty close to identical to the real thing.


----------



## William Prophett

ssm1699 said:


> Maybe because some of us can't afford to purchase a semi decent used original for the money we have in these. Also, maybe we enjoy the challenge and pride of getting a box of parts and building a working machine that is pretty close to identical to the real thing.


And, to "piggy back" on your point (from the standpoint of someone that makes a living with "saws"), you SHOULD be proud of what you've done and what you learn. "Most" loggers and folks that burn fuel and oil for a living will never build a saw. Most production loggers and arborists are "saw wreckers". I don't use that as a "negative phrase". They work saws to death! They drop them, run them over, burn them up and "demand" one thing and one thing only, that they start, run all day and make them money. If the saw doesn't do that, it gets ripped apart and turned into a "parts saw", or it gets brought to soemone like me to fix it. They can't even agree on overall "brand reliability", because most of them only run the saws that are given to them to use. Now, this doesn't apply to ALL of them! Some guys are logging "tyranosaurs"! They know saws inside and outside. Those are the folks worth listening to.


----------



## ssm1699

William Prophett said:


> And, to "piggy back" on your point (from the standpoint of someone that makes a living with "saws"), you SHOULD be proud of what you've done and what you learn. "Most" loggers and folks that burn fuel and oil for a living will never build a saw. Most production loggers and arborists are "saw wreckers". I don't use that as a "negative phrase". They work saws to death! They drop them, run them over, burn them up and "demand" one thing and one thing only, that they start, run all day and make them money. If the saw doesn't do that, it gets ripped apart and turned into a "parts saw", or it gets brought to soemone like me to fix it. They can't even agree on overall "brand reliability", because most of them only run the saws that are given to them to use. Now, this doesn't apply to ALL of them! Some guys are logging "tyranosaurs"! They know saws inside and outside. Those are the folks worth listening to.



Also, I don't have the money in my saws, that it would have cost me to buy them new, because I bought machines that needed repaired. I would rather spend $300 on a saw that I have to build and know what I have, than $600+ on a used machine that is more than likely less CC's than this clone and I don't know for sure exactly what I have. A WELL used MS440 is still going for $400+ here. Give me my clone, that I put together myself, for less money and more power.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Hey Bedford would you suspect them to fix the blue kits with the correct and updated parts over the old orange kits?


----------



## NeSurfcaster

I don't have the space/tools/know how to build one of these kits, I respect the guys that get these working properly. It's not for me but I know if I did build one and it worked I would be proud of it. I use a 066 at work regularly and it's a beast. If these kit saws work at even 90 percent of a 066 they are respectable to me.


----------



## Deleted member 117362

Those kit saws are a thing of the past, you can purchase them assembled and ready to cut.


----------



## ammoaddict

Duce said:


> Those kit saws are a thing of the past, you can purchase them assembled and ready to cut.


Where's the fun in that?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## 67L36Driver

Sorry, I’m not paying an eight year old to assemble an 066/660.

And not liking blue to boot.


----------



## Deleted member 117362

67L36Driver said:


> Sorry, I’m not paying an eight year old to assemble an 066/660.
> 
> And not liking blue to boot.


But, you paid a seven year old to make the parts for that saw. Correct?


----------



## ssm1699

What is the recommendation for ring gap, on the piston rings??? One ring is .004" and the other is .003"

Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

ssm1699 said:


> What is the recommendation for ring gap, on the piston rings??? One ring is .004" and the other is .003"
> 
> Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


I've put the Cabers on all of mine and never checked them. My opinion is that gap is almost perfect. Maybe just a tiny bit tight, but I don't see any reason to go filing off 1 thou or so to get them around .005.... Especially on a double ring offset...


----------



## Brian Thacker

.006


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

All mine were around .006-8. 
In the .003 range I would take a little off.


----------



## 67L36Driver

Duce said:


> But, you paid a seven year old to make the parts for that saw. Correct?



You betcha! 

And, if I ***** enuff, they will replace bad product.


----------



## Brian Thacker

Setting ring end gap is not that adnominal. I have had to do it on other brand rings. In the motorcycle world I do it every time I rebuild an engine. I restore a lot of McCullochs and have to do it every time.

Brian


----------



## ssm1699

With everyones responses thus far, I will probably take a bit off, so that I don't possibly snag a ring on first start and break in because it is to tight. I want to build this thing, but using as much of the parts that came with it, but build it to last. That is exactly why I am taking my time on this. I really want to get it running, but want it to be right. The old saying, slow and steady wins the race.


----------



## morbius18

ssm1699 said:


> With everyones responses thus far, I will probably take a bit off, so that I don't possibly snag a ring on first start and break in because it is to tight. I want to build this thing, but using as much of the parts that came with it, but build it to last. That is exactly why I am taking my time on this. I really want to get it running, but want it to be right. The old saying, slow and steady wins the race.



I had a MS261 that I just redid with cabers. Everything else is OEM. My end gap was .003-.004. From the factory they are .007 new with Stihl components. That is on a 44.7mm cylinder. It was recommended .004" per inch of bore. 

Ms660 has 54mm or 2.126" bore. I would highly recommend that you file them to at least .008" -.010".


----------



## William Prophett

morbius18 said:


> I had a MS261 that I just redid with cabers. Everything else is OEM. My end gap was .003-.004. From the factory they are .007 new with Stihl components. That is on a 44.7mm cylinder. It was recommended .004" per inch of bore.
> 
> Ms660 has 54mm or 2.126" bore. I would highly recommend that you file them to at least .008" -.010".


I was always taught 2.5 -3 thou per inch of bore, but we are splitting hairs here. I would say that "assuming" he got an "accurate" measurement, pushed in with the piston nice and square, above the exhaust port, he is a couple thou tight. We are talking a really fine line. I would say 6-8 would be perfect and he is at 3-4... Just gotta make sure to not compromise the indents and he only needs a couple light swipes off each side. I'd bet he is ok, because I really haven't seen anyone talking about hanging a ring...


----------



## morbius18

William Prophett said:


> I was always taught 2.5 -3 thou per inch of bore, but we are splitting hairs here. I would say that "assuming" he got an "accurate" measurement, pushed in with the piston nice and square, above the exhaust port, he is a couple thou tight. We are talking a really fine line. I would say 6-8 would be perfect and he is at 3-4... Just gotta make sure to not compromise the indents and he only needs a couple light swipes off each side. I'd bet he is ok, because I really haven't seen anyone talking about hanging a ring...



I agree with you, its really hard to accurately measure the difference of .001"-.002"

The clone ms660s are really varied in sizes. Squish is all over the place. I've built 3, 2 needed base gasket removed, with one having to have the cylinder base shaved to get some decent compression. I can imagine that cylinder bores will be slightly variable. One needed the transfer tunnel ground to keep from hitting the case. I had a seal fail and sieze a crank. All the chain tensioners were junk. 

Kudos to ssm1699 for actually checking and noticing they are tight.

Its after the fact, but after building 3x ms660, 1x ms440bb, and 1x ms360, it would be better money spent picking up an oem saw and rebuilding it. Like a ms441 or ms460. After the cost of switching kit parts for more reliable oem parts, plus time and issues, one comes close to the price of an oem saw that you rebuilt. And you get the reliability/longevity of an oem saw. I know this is a thread about building these kit saws, but I've had problem after problem with the kits. In the end after fixing all the issues, I still had a saw that wasn't worth much.


----------



## homervirden

Has anyone got the new blue kit? Wondering if any other changes have been made...


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> From Ireland. It's the one I sent you
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Hey Bedford, how is your finger doing? I haven't heard from you in a while. Hope it's healing well.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

Well, I made some major head way on my build last night. I have had little things holding me back, that were my fault. I had to do oil seals twice, as I ruined the first set that I put in because I was rushing things. Then in the process of installing the piston, my second circlip decided to go flying on me and went bye bye. Got my new circlips yesterday and the seals last week. The seals went in beautifully and the circlip is in too. Got the cylinder mounted and should be sealed as I put 1184 on both sides of the gasket to make sure it sealed. I made sure everything moved beautifully with the crank, every time I made a change that would affect it (i.e. install seals, install p & c, etc). Got the handle/fuel tank mounted. Brake, oil pump, clutch and drum. Hell, entire right side of the saw is put together. The only portion of a part not on the right side is the handle bar. That will be one of the last things I put on. My chain adjuster even feels pretty good. I lathered it with lubri-plate during assembly and ran it after I got it put together. It was a tad rough at very first, but has smoothed out just within running it forward and back, about 3 or 4 times. At first, I was a little intimidated by putting the brake parts together, but after watching Matt's video several times, I got it. One issue I had was there was still some flashing in the slot of the handle where the one piece slides through, so it wouldn't slide through completely. Got that cleaned out and everything together. I obviously don't have the muffler on yet, so I don't know about clearance between the handle and it, but the brake snaps on and off beautifully. Got the fly wheel on as well. I realize that I am possibly putting the cart before the horse by doing all of that before doing a pressure/vac test. But I feel pretty confident in how everything has went. Also, I am waiting on a new pressure/vac pump as I got mine from the garage and it has gone belly up. Lets just put it this way, between brake fluid eating at the aluminum head and the gauge some how getting damaged inside, it is dead. It does pump and pull a vacuum, but I don't trust it as I kind of got the gauge fixed and it reads, but it drops off quickly on both sides. I don't trust it to be accurate. Hell, I have had my kit for a month now and am finally this far. Hasn't helped that I have had a particular vehicle giving me troubles. That is hopefully taken care of and done. I know that there is a lot of debate on the carbs and whether or not to re-jet them. Who is running the carb that came with, as is and how is it doing? My kit came with the HLic WJ-67 clone, so I can get the oversized jet for it. I just figure that if it will run just fine with that jet, I may just leave it. Another question I have is how does the foil heat shield lay on the case? But so far, everything has been there. Sorry for the story guys.


----------



## ammoaddict

Congrats on the progress so far. It can be frustrating at times.
I used the supplied carb. It runs pretty well although I have not really cut with it yet, just a few test cuts. I will test it out on the mill I bought for it when the weather cools down. I don't know about the foil. Mine didn't have it.


ssm1699 said:


> Well, I made some major head way on my build last night. I have had little things holding me back, that were my fault. I had to do oil seals twice, as I ruined the first set that I put in because I was rushing things. Then in the process of installing the piston, my second circlip decided to go flying on me and went bye bye. Got my new circlips yesterday and the seals last week. The seals went in beautifully and the circlip is in too. Got the cylinder mounted and should be sealed as I put 1184 on both sides of the gasket to make sure it sealed. I made sure everything moved beautifully with the crank, every time I made a change that would affect it (i.e. install seals, install p & c, etc). Got the handle/fuel tank mounted. Brake, oil pump, clutch and drum. Hell, entire right side of the saw is put together. The only portion of a part not on the right side is the handle bar. That will be one of the last things I put on. My chain adjuster even feels pretty good. I lathered it with lubri-plate during assembly and ran it after I got it put together. It was a tad rough at very first, but has smoothed out just within running it forward and back, about 3 or 4 times. At first, I was a little intimidated by putting the brake parts together, but after watching Matt's video several times, I got it. One issue I had was there was still some flashing in the slot of the handle where the one piece slides through, so it wouldn't slide through completely. Got that cleaned out and everything together. I obviously don't have the muffler on yet, so I don't know about clearance between the handle and it, but the brake snaps on and off beautifully. Got the fly wheel on as well. I realize that I am possibly putting the cart before the horse by doing all of that before doing a pressure/vac test. But I feel pretty confident in how everything has went. Also, I am waiting on a new pressure/vac pump as I got mine from the garage and it has gone belly up. Lets just put it this way, between brake fluid eating at the aluminum head and the gauge some how getting damaged inside, it is dead. It does pump and pull a vacuum, but I don't trust it as I kind of got the gauge fixed and it reads, but it drops off quickly on both sides. I don't trust it to be accurate. Hell, I have had my kit for a month now and am finally this far. Hasn't helped that I have had a particular vehicle giving me troubles. That is hopefully taken care of and done. I know that there is a lot of debate on the carbs and whether or not to re-jet them. Who is running the carb that came with, as is and how is it doing? My kit came with the HLic WJ-67 clone, so I can get the oversized jet for it. I just figure that if it will run just fine with that jet, I may just leave it. Another question I have is how does the foil heat shield lay on the case? But so far, everything has been there. Sorry for the story guys.



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

I have two running on mills. Both are 56mm. One has the kit carb and runs perfect, the second one I couldn't get to tune right and I put a Walbro wj76 on it. Both saws are absolutely perfect. I did replace several parts with better parts, but nothing too crazy. OEM Bar studs, one has OEM chain adjuster and second has the kit adjuster but both are shimmed, caber rings, OEM decomp, one has OEM recoil drum and the other has a Highway Assembly, both kits have aftermarket seals in them, neither one has the trigger or control rod upgrade and both start fine.


----------



## ammoaddict

The fast idle doesn't work on mine either. After ruining the kit chain adjuster, I bought another after market one and shimmed it with the brass tubing. It works so far but only tried it once. The only OEM part on mine is the Husqvarna decomp.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

Did either of you rejet your kit carbs? I will hopefully know how my build is tomorrow, as my new vacuum/pressure kit comes tomorrow, supposedly. I may just leave mine as is and see what I get out of it. I will say that I am not running a big bore. If mine will tune and idle with the kit carb, but I have to adjust the screws out quite a bit, I may put the bigger jet in. Or maybe this coulb be my excuse to get a set of drill bits that have numbered and lettered bits in it. I am really looking forward to getting this saw running. I am going to try it without a decomp, since I am running about .035" of squish. I realize that this is a totally different ball of wax, compared to a plugged 039/MS390. But that is nothing for me to pull and I know it is blowing about 150 psi on the comp. It got a good hard breakin, bucking about 34"-42" diameter ash. I am hoping to get some good use on this, this fall at my in-laws farm, doing field perimeter maintenance.

Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

ssm1699 said:


> Did either of you rejet your kit carbs? I will hopefully know how my build is tomorrow, as my new vacuum/pressure kit comes tomorrow, supposedly. I may just leave mine as is and see what I get out of it. I will say that I am not running a big bore. If mine will tune and idle with the kit carb, but I have to adjust the screws out quite a bit, I may put the bigger jet in. Or maybe this coulb be my excuse to get a set of drill bits that have numbered and lettered bits in it. I am really looking forward to getting this saw running. I am going to try it without a decomp, since I am running about .035" of squish. I realize that this is a totally different ball of wax, compared to a plugged 039/MS390. But that is nothing for me to pull and I know it is blowing about 150 psi on the comp. It got a good hard breakin, bucking about 34"-42" diameter ash. I am hoping to get some good use on this, this fall at my in-laws farm, doing field perimeter maintenance.
> 
> Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


My first kit carb tuned and works perfect, no need to rejet it. The second one wasn't tuning right so I just bought the big Walbro and it tuned perfect... Both saws run great and the plugs are golden brown tuned for milling between 12,500 and 12,800 with 36" bars on them...


----------



## ammoaddict

Kit carb as is. .035 squish here too with no gasket. 150 lbs compression


ssm1699 said:


> Did either of you rejet your kit carbs? I will hopefully know how my build is tomorrow, as my new vacuum/pressure kit comes tomorrow, supposedly. I may just leave mine as is and see what I get out of it. I will say that I am not running a big bore. If mine will tune and idle with the kit carb, but I have to adjust the screws out quite a bit, I may put the bigger jet in. Or maybe this coulb be my excuse to get a set of drill bits that have numbered and lettered bits in it. I am really looking forward to getting this saw running. I am going to try it without a decomp, since I am running about .035" of squish. I realize that this is a totally different ball of wax, compared to a plugged 039/MS390. But that is nothing for me to pull and I know it is blowing about 150 psi on the comp. It got a good hard breakin, bucking about 34"-42" diameter ash. I am hoping to get some good use on this, this fall at my in-laws farm, doing field perimeter maintenance.
> 
> Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

Ok. It will probably just leave it as long as it tunes. I was thinking of tuning on the fairly fat side, while breaking in. It will be starting out, wearing a 24" b&c with full chisel chain. Got the 24" b&c for my 039/MS390 a few months ago and it complained, especially on the oiling front. So that is why I got this kit. Didn't really want to destroy a b&c or my other saw. Contemplating on a 32" b&c if the provided oiler can handle it.


William Prophett said:


> My first kit carb tuned and works perfect, no need to rejet it. The second one wasn't tuning right so I just bought the big Walbro and it tuned perfect... Both saws run great and the plugs are golden brown tuned for milling between 12,500 and 12,800 with 36" bars on them...



Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

ammoaddict said:


> Kit carb as is. .035 squish here too with no gasket. 150 lbs compression
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


My .035" squish is with gasket. Without gasket, my piston hits and won't finish the cycle. My cylinder would definitely like having a minor grind/cut on the squish band.

Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

ssm1699 said:


> Ok. It will probably just leave it as long as it tunes. I was thinking of tuning on the fairly fat side, while breaking in. It will be starting out, wearing a 24" b&c with full chisel chain. Got the 24" b&c for my 039/MS390 a few months ago and it complained, especially on the oiling front. So that is why I got this kit. Didn't really want to destroy a b&c or my other saw. Contemplating on a 32" b&c if the provided oiler can handle it.
> 
> Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


Another mod I have is an HO oiler on both saws. The one from Ireland. Both of mine are fine, but some guys have had headaches with them.


----------



## ssm1699

I have been looking at those just to make sure the b&c is oiled well enough, regardless of what length I am running.


William Prophett said:


> Another mod I have is an HO oiler on both saws. The one from Ireland. Both of mine are fine, but some guys have had headaches with them.



Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

I may just see how it goes with the provided pump and my current b&c.

Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

I have one running the kit carb but I drilled the jet. It was on the one I ported and the adjustment was past 1 1/2 turns before I jetted it. 
You could try tuning it and see if it stays tuned. If so then it’s a good carb. An air leak will have you hunting for a good tune. 
Also make a long cut then lift mid cut to see if it 4 strokes. If it doesn’t or it seems to rev higher it could be starving for fuel under load. That’ll damage a topend also.


----------



## ssm1699

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> I have one running the kit carb but I drilled the jet. It was on the one I ported and the adjustment was past 1 1/2 turns before I jetted it.
> You could try tuning it and see if it stays tuned. If so then it’s a good carb. An air leak will have you hunting for a good tune.
> Also make a long cut then lift mid cut to see if it 4 strokes. If it doesn’t or it seems to rev higher it could be starving for fuel under load. That’ll damage a topend also.


That much I knew, with the four stroking. Just wasn't sure how many people had actually rejetted or had good success with the provided carbs. Even after break-in, it will probably still be on the fat side anyways. I plan on tuning to start, using a tach.

Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

ssm1699 said:


> I have been looking at those just to make sure the b&c is oiled well enough, regardless of what length I am running.
> 
> Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


Both of mine oil 3/4 of an oil tank to a tank of gas... About 1/4 more than the kit oiler.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

William Prophett said:


> Both of mine oil 3/4 of an oil tank to a tank of gas... About 1/4 more than the kit oiler.



Which HO pump did you go with Was the ones from Ireland?


----------



## William Prophett

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Which HO pump did you go with Was the ones from Ireland?


Yup


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

William Prophett said:


> Yup



Ok I may get and try another. I’ll need one on my next saw


----------



## William Prophett

I burn 10 tanks of gas in these saws every day.


----------



## William Prophett

Well, in "spurts". I may mill 4 days in a row and then be off for a couple days...


----------



## William Prophett

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Ok I may get and try another. I’ll need one on my next saw


Both of the Irish HO oilers work fine. I know some folks have had problems with them.


----------



## ssm1699

William Prophett said:


> Both of mine oil 3/4 of an oil tank to a tank of gas... About 1/4 more than the kit oiler.


Is that with the oiler turned all the way up, on either pump, that you get those amounts? Or is the HO backed off and it still goes through 3/4 of a tank, to a tank of gas?

Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

ssm1699 said:


> Is that with the oiler turned all the way up, on either pump, that you get those amounts? Or is the HO backed off and it still goes through 3/4 of a tank, to a tank of gas?
> 
> Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


All rhe way up against the stop. I haven't tried modifying them.


----------



## William Prophett

ssm1699 said:


> Is that with the oiler turned all the way up, on either pump, that you get those amounts? Or is the HO backed off and it still goes through 3/4 of a tank, to a tank of gas?
> 
> Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


The kit pump would only use a half tank turned all the way up.


----------



## ssm1699

William Prophett said:


> All rhe way up against the stop. I haven't tried modifying them.


Ok. I normally run my oilers wide open, if they are adjustable, regardless of bar length.

Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

ssm1699 said:


> Is that with the oiler turned all the way up, on either pump, that you get those amounts? Or is the HO backed off and it still goes through 3/4 of a tank, to a tank of gas?
> 
> Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


The HO pump almost uses a whole tank of oil... I'm estimating at 3/4.


----------



## William Prophett

ssm1699 said:


> Ok. I normally run my oilers wide open, if they are adjustable, regardless of bar length.
> 
> Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


I run all mine wide open as well.


----------



## ssm1699

I may just order an HO pump or 2, regardless.


----------



## ssm1699

Just ordered 2 HO pumps, so that I have a backup.


----------



## ssm1699

So I finished assembly last night of my saw. I originally thought I was going to be short a single M5 screw for the AV mount on the clutch side. I opened the package for the screws to the top cover and figured out that they put the needed screw in that bag. Since I found where everything was, I actually had every part in my kit and actually had an extra M4 screw. I ran pressure and vac test on the crankcase and it passed. Also did the same on the gas tank and it passed. By the time I finished, it was to late for me to try and fire it. It was also time to help the wife get the kids to bed. I am really looking forward to hearing this beast fire up.


----------



## Firewood Bandit

ssm1699 said:


> Just ordered 2 HO pumps, so that I have a backup.


I'm intrested in a HO oiler do you have the link handy?


----------



## ssm1699

Firewood Bandit said:


> I'm intrested in a HO oiler do you have the link handy?



This should be it. This is what I ordered atleast.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Pump-Gear-for-Stihl-066-MS660-Replaces-1122-640-3201/112883422544?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160727114228&meid=85bcd511d68c4f2f8bc895fd9c5cd07a&pid=100290&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=112883422544&itm=112883422544&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507


----------



## Firewood Bandit

ssm1699 said:


> This should be it. This is what I ordered atleast.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Pump-Gear-for-Stihl-066-MS660-Replaces-1122-640-3201/112883422544?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160727114228&meid=85bcd511d68c4f2f8bc895fd9c5cd07a&pid=100290&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=112883422544&itm=112883422544&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507


Link works thank you sir


----------



## ssm1699

Well, I haven't tuned it. But I have fired my saw and man does it sound and feel good. We will see how it goes as it breaks in, but I am running it without a decomp right now. It isn't bad to start as is. But like said, it also isn't broke in yet, of which may change things for me. I am in "small engine heaven" today. Got the 660 running and also got my fs85r running. Been fighting it for over a month. Love how it is running too. It was another project I have been working on, along side the 660 build.

Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

ssm1699 said:


> Well, I haven't tuned it. But I have fired my saw and man does it sound and feel good. We will see how it goes as it breaks in, but I am running it without a decomp right now. It isn't bad to start as is. But like said, it also isn't broke in yet, of which may change things for me. I am in "small engine heaven" today. Got the 660 running and also got my fs85r running. Been fighting it for over a month. Love how it is running too. It was another project I have been working on, along side the 660 build.
> 
> Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


Congrats. It's a good feeling when it fires up for the first time isn't it?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

ammoaddict said:


> Congrats. It's a good feeling when it fires up for the first time isn't it?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


It is great. And it did the initial pop on the second pull. Full running on about the 5th. It doesn't have high idle, so I need to take care of that issue. But the carb is set almost perfect, by a tach. Pulled to 12k, with the way the carb is set. I may still open up the jet on the carb. But just purrs at idle and pulls right up with the trigger pull.

Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

I'm thinking mine took 8-9 pulls to pop. No fast idle here either. I don't remember anyone's working unless they modified it.


ssm1699 said:


> It is great. And it did the initial pop on the second pull. Full running on about the 5th. It doesn't have high idle, so I need to take care of that issue. But the carb is set almost perfect, by a tach. Pulled to 12k, with the way the carb is set. I may still open up the jet on the carb. But just purrs at idle and pulls right up with the trigger pull.
> 
> Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## 67L36Driver

All of the Farmertec kits (7) have been a ‘no fast idle’ for me.

They never get the throttle link right. [emoji849]


----------



## ammoaddict

What is the fix to get it working?


67L36Driver said:


> All of the Farmertec kits (7) have been a ‘no fast idle’ for me.
> 
> They never get the throttle link right. [emoji849]



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## 67L36Driver

ammoaddict said:


> What is the fix to get it working?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



Loose zip tie around the trigger/handle.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

The control lever sets to deep in the groove so it won’t reach the fast idle notch on the trigger. 
On one I cut some leather off a old glove and laid it behind the control lever to shim it outward.
I did a write up on the old 660. It’s hard to find now.


----------



## William Prophett

I saw your original fix "66", how is it holding up? So the "mo" for the fix is to replace the control shaft and trigger with OEM, or shim the control shaft. I tried to put some of that thick ass black gorrilla tape on the face of the shaft cam, it worked on one and didn't work on the other. I'm pondering a "fully modded" felling 660 with a full wrap and will replace both with OEM on this one. For now, they pop on the second pull cold and start about 3 pulls later, so I don't see a big problem. It would have been a problem a year ago when all the pull cord assemblies were flying apart, but I haven't blown one of those in a while.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

The high idle still works. 
On mine it still wouldn’t work swapping oem parts, I had a oem 660 I was swapping parts with. 
I think they molded or cut the slots to deep.


----------



## Canyon Angler

Somewhere along the line I saw a thread where somebody cut a spacer out of HDPE or something to put behind the throttle linkage to get the high idle to work. 

It was basically a rectangle of plastic with a half-circle cut out where the shaft of the throttle linkage would bear...Might be worth a search...


----------



## TheBigGiantPowerHead

Hey all, newb here. Getting ready to start my first FT660 build, and totally geeking out on all the great info here.

I have not came across any info on what effect using a big bore piston and cylinder has on the balance of the engine. Is this something that needs to be addressed?


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

The BB cylinders seemed to have some Freeport but vibration hasn’t been a issue. 
HLsuppy seemed to add the missing screws, correct brake spring, and brake band with pin pressed in on the old kit I got from them. I did have to add my chain adjuster bushing so it would fit tight. 
I did the normal upgrades that I did on the previous 660 kits I built I’m just waiting on a oem rope rotor and dawgs so I’ll use these til they split.


----------



## William Prophett

TheBigGiantPowerHead said:


> Hey all, newb here. Getting ready to start my first FT660 build, and totally geeking out on all the great info here.
> 
> I have not came across any info on what effect using a big bore piston and cylinder has on the balance of the engine. Is this something that needs to be addressed?


I'm running two BB jugs on my mill saws. They both have almost an entire 36" chain sharpened through them. Haven't had one single issue with either (besides recoil assemblies blowing up about a year ago). Like stated above, you "need" to use the base gasket to minimize the Freeport. With the gaskets installed, I can just make out the bottom of the skirt at top dead center. As far as the parts that have "issues" and "maybe should" be replaced, that is up to you. As you read through the thread, you will see A LOT OF INFO. There really isn't any "right or wrong", except to say that the decomp needs to be replaced with a plug, OEM or Husky, the chain adjuster "needs" to be shimmed no matter wether you use the kit screw or OEM, I "feel" you NEED OEM bar studs, kit carb either works fine or doesn't tune (replace with Walbro if it is a problem). Other than that, the rest is up to you. I run Caber rings, OEM decomp, OEM chain adjuster shimmed, OEM bar studs, Walbro wj76 carb on one and kit carb on another, basic woods port, 1184 on the sealing surfaces, rip out the seals and install new after the cases are pressed together and have 4 recoil assemblies on hand, but haven't blown one in 8 months and run the HO oil pump on both.


----------



## TheBigGiantPowerHead

Thanks for the responses and the pics. Nice to see an up close of the chain brake assembly.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Don’t forget to put these 2 bushing on before the handle or you’ll have to pull it back off to install. 
I’ve got 2 saws going together so if you need a pic of something let me know.


----------



## 67L36Driver

It is possible to install that bumper stop without removing the handle/tank.





It involves shortening a socket (not torx) screw and cutting a tiny slot in the end of it (the screw). Cutting a hex (Allen) wrench very short and using a tiny screwdriver.





Overlooked that bumper on my 038 build.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

I’m sure some buffers never get installed. 
I usually take the baffle out and gasket match the muffler to the port like the old 066’s


----------



## dswensen

William Prophett said:


> I'm running two BB jugs on my mill saws. They both have almost an entire 36" chain sharpened through them. Haven't had one single issue with either (besides recoil assemblies blowing up about a year ago). Like stated above, you "need" to use the base gasket to minimize the Freeport. With the gaskets installed, I can just make out the bottom of the skirt at top dead center. As far as the parts that have "issues" and "maybe should" be replaced, that is up to you. As you read through the thread, you will see A LOT OF INFO. There really isn't any "right or wrong", except to say that the decomp needs to be replaced with a plug, OEM or Husky, the chain adjuster "needs" to be shimmed no matter wether you use the kit screw or OEM, I "feel" you NEED OEM bar studs, kit carb either works fine or doesn't tune (replace with Walbro if it is a problem). Other than that, the rest is up to you. I run Caber rings, OEM decomp, OEM chain adjuster shimmed, OEM bar studs, Walbro wj76 carb on one and kit carb on another, basic woods port, 1184 on the sealing surfaces, rip out the seals and install new after the cases are pressed together and have 4 recoil assemblies on hand, but haven't blown one in 8 months and run the HO oil pump on both.



Please remind me again on the shim for the tensioner shaft? I seem to recall it's just a piece of brass tubing of the correct ID/OD and cut to (short) length - is that right??? That's what the pictures above seemed to show too.


----------



## William Prophett

dswensen said:


> Please remind me again on the shim for the tensioner shaft? I seem to recall it's just a piece of brass tubing of the correct ID/OD and cut to (short) length - is that right??? That's what the pictures above seemed to show too.


Yup.... Just get the right ID and the thickness of the tube shouldn't be an issue. I got some right at my local hardware store...


----------



## rich450es

this is a link to it on ebay 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/K-S-014X3-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Most hardware stores have them


----------



## 67L36Driver

rich450es said:


> this is a link to it on ebay
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/K-S-014X3-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649



Also useful to butt splice fuel line. [emoji106]


----------



## rich450es

So I just built one of the 660 kit and it runs fantastic ! I received all the parts which looked good also (I had to do some file work on the cylinder intake port due to some flash ) and were packaged nicely. I did install some stock stihl parts (normal things like piston clips, wrist pin bearing, gaskets and seals, ngk plug) and AM parts like the HD oiler from Ireland and the Tillotson HS-320a carburetor . I also grabbed a 3/4 wrap from farmer Tec. I have run about 4 tanks of 42:1 92 octane fuel threw it without a hic-up with a 25in stihl bar. but after reading all 106 pages in this thread (that only took me 4 days to get threw in my free time thanks all LOL)I'm wondering if I should order up stock impulse , fuel line and intake boot ? I love building this kit so much I sold my 026 to finance building the 361 kit (the 026 was given to me by a friend 10 years ago and was getting tired). what say you guys ? …… thank you for reading this !!!


----------



## William Prophett

rich450es said:


> So I just built one of the 660 kit and it runs fantastic ! I received all the parts which looked good also (I had to do some file work on the cylinder intake port due to some flash ) and were packaged nicely. I did install some stock stihl parts (normal things like piston clips, wrist pin bearing, gaskets and seals, ngk plug) and AM parts like the HD oiler from Ireland and the Tillotson HS-320a carburetor . I also grabbed a 3/4 wrap from farmer Tec. I have run about 4 tanks of 42:1 92 octane fuel threw it without a hic-up with a 25in stihl bar. but after reading all 106 pages in this thread (that only took me 4 days to get threw in my free time thanks all LOL)I'm wondering if I should order up stock impulse , fuel line and intake boot ? I love building this kit so much I sold my 026 to finance building the 361 kit (the 026 was given to me by a friend 10 years ago and was getting tired). what say you guys ? …… thank you for reading this !!!


Congrats Rich. Funny you ask, because I have been thinking that I'll do exactly what you asked as part of a "every winter" service. Seems like the least I can do and keep them fresh for the spring. I'm not a big fan of "unsealing" well sealed ****, but what the hell. Mine are running so well, that I'm not screwing with anything for now, but it seemed like a solid winter plan.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Good job Sounds like you have a solid kit. 
A few have replaced all the rubber which may not be a bad idea for the long term. We know how Chinese rubber cracks over time. 
But you’ll notice something going on. It won’t hold a tune for one. 

The only rubber part I replaced from the get go is the piece of fuel line to the carb from the elbow. I used some Stihl bulk line.


----------



## rich450es

Well thanks ! I will say that adding that new carb to the saw made it wake up quite a lot ! good $40 spent there


----------



## TheBigGiantPowerHead

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Don’t forget to put these 2 bushing on before the handle or you’ll have to pull it back off to install.
> I’ve got 2 saws going together so if you need a pic of something let me know.



Your post brought to my attention that this bushing with the plate was not included in my kit. Guess I'll be happy if this was all that was excluded. Not a big deal, I'm waiting on a Stihl wrist pin bearing anyway.


----------



## ammoaddict

rich450es said:


> Well thanks ! I will say that adding that new carb to the saw made it wake up quite a lot ! good $40 spent there


Would you mind sharing where you found that carb for $40. I can't seem to find one that cheap.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## rich450es

I can't access my eBay account at work. Maybe it was $45 ? I bought it 3-4 weeks ago so I may be off on the price by memory. Well worth the money IMHO


----------



## Canyon Angler

ammoaddict said:


> Would you mind sharing where you found that carb for $40. I can't seem to find one that cheap.



Here's one for $50:

https://mittysupply.com/product/hs-320a-tillotson-carburetor-for-stihl-066-ms660/

and one for $52 delivered:

https://www.ebay.com/p/STIHL-066-Ms650-Ms660-OEM-Tillotson-Carburetor-Hs-320a/695483524


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

With the Huztl springs my clutch would slip pretty easy when pulling a 36” bar. 
So now I’ll go ahead and put oem springs on from the get go. 
In the old 660 thread I checked the tension on both and the huztl spring was way stiffer. I think spec is the the clutch starts to engage around 3,200-3,300 rpms iirc. 
I think bedford changes out the springs also maybe he’ll chime in. 
Oem is on the right.


----------



## Bedford T

Yep springs are changed to oem. I don't let it idle long engaged, bad for springs.


----------



## Bedford T

If you can ....order from Mitty. So you might pay 5$ deliver more. She is a hardworking business woman that looks after us.


Canyon Angler said:


> Here's one for $50:
> 
> https://mittysupply.com/product/hs-320a-tillotson-carburetor-for-stihl-066-ms660/
> 
> and one for $52 delivered:
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/p/STIHL-066-Ms650-Ms660-OEM-Tillotson-Carburetor-Hs-320a/695483524


----------



## Bedford T

She is out of WJ-76-1. The best for this saw. 40$. I wrote and asked for a date should hear back.


Canyon Angler said:


> Here's one for $50:
> 
> https://mittysupply.com/product/hs-320a-tillotson-carburetor-for-stihl-066-ms660/
> 
> and one for $52 delivered:
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/p/STIHL-066-Ms650-Ms660-OEM-Tillotson-Carburetor-Hs-320a/695483524


----------



## Bedford T

See below.


ammoaddict said:


> Would you mind sharing where you found that carb for $40. I can't seem to find one that cheap.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

When you guys loose you place this type info in on my website so rather than guess just go look it up.


Canyon Angler said:


> Here's one for $50:
> 
> https://mittysupply.com/product/hs-320a-tillotson-carburetor-for-stihl-066-ms660/
> 
> and one for $52 delivered:
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/p/STIHL-066-Ms650-Ms660-OEM-Tillotson-Carburetor-Hs-320a/695483524


----------



## Bedford T

William Prophett said:


> Congrats Rich. Funny you ask, because I have been thinking that I'll do exactly what you asked as part of a "every winter" service. Seems like the least I can do and keep them fresh for the spring. I'm not a big fan of "unsealing" well sealed ****, but what the hell. Mine are running so well, that I'm not screwing with anything for now, but it seemed like a solid winter plan.


Do replace the rubber, but the seals, gaskets are good. As you work on it improve it. I had a change to put a excellent cylinder kit on mine and I declined because I had an excellent kit on mine it. That's when you know you have done all the right things. If you got a flood and needed to help yourself or your neighbor your saw would be super reliable, trustworthy. 
Refer to http://thechainsawkitguy.com. ideas, part #'s photo, tips. If you need a number ask.


----------



## Bedford T

The carbs are back in stock check website

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Canyon Angler

How long does it normally take from when you order from Huztl to when you receive your kit? I ordered a 361 kit last week (my first)...


----------



## Bedford T

Up to a couple weeks. Each day feels like forever. There is two custom entry points, usually two shippers. I have got one in 8.


Canyon Angler said:


> How long does it normally take from when you order from Huztl and when you receive your kit? I ordered a 361 kit last week (my first)...



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ssm1699

I just got the 2 HO Oil Pumps that I ordered for my saw. My saw has been running beautifully. Usually 1 or 2 pulls and it pops. About 3 or 4 after, it is running. I don't have High Idle like all the others, but it just fires up and purrs. That is with the AM carb that came with it. I haven't adjusted any of the screws on the carb, as it seems to be about a perfect tune. Revved out, it is pulling about 11,800-12,000 and idles without a hiccup. I may set the high side a tad richer yet. I have zero oem parts on the saw, all AM parts. The only thing that sucks, is that I haven't put it into any wood yet. I have nothing worth my time at home and haven't done any cutting at my In-Laws farm. We haven't done any cutting there because either they have been waiting for crops to be gotten out of the fields or weather. But idling and kicking it out and heat cycling it, I have almost ran a half tank of gas through it. Oh, it isn't running a decomp either. I have the port plugged and it isn't bad at all to start. I can definitely tell that it is breaking in, as the pull is getting tougher, but not impossible or difficult. It is definitely a beast though.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Glad your carb is working out they either do or don’t. What’s your oil ratio? Running all aftermarket and the piston bearing I would run 32:1 and a good tune. That’s just me but I run 32:1 in my big saws and 40 in everything else. 
This is a plug out of my ported 460 running kl200 at 32:1. Having the low tuned is just as important as the high side.


----------



## ssm1699

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Glad your carb is working out they either do or don’t. What’s your oil ratio? Running all aftermarket and the piston bearing I would run 32:1 and a good tune. That’s just me but I run 32:1 in my big saws and 40 in everything else.
> This is a plug out of my ported 460 running kl200 at 32:1. Having the low tuned is just as important as the high side.



Right now it is running 32:1, probably closer to 30:1 as I always add a tad more than the needed amount. I haven't decided yet, but I may just run 32:1 in everything so that I don't have to have 2 different cans of mix. I have always got 32:1 as I mow with nothing but lawn-boy mowers, because of my terraces. I wanted to run 32:1 in it for break-in, at the very least. The low is actually running right at the recommended idle speed or alittle lower. It just purrs and pulls right to full rev without a bog or flat spots, that I can tell. I even figured I would give the provided "Bosch" spark plug a try and it is running good with it. Haven't pulled it to see what color it is. I wanted to give it more run time, before I pulled it to see what it looked like.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Sounds good. Share some vids when you get some logs to cut. 
The plug I showed really don’t tell a whole lot about my high and low settings except it looks good for a extended run at wot and idle. 
I hear a lot of people like lawn boys I’ve never used one.


----------



## Bedford T

Bosch used to be and maybe still is the must have plug for vws. Back in the old days.


ssm1699 said:


> Right now it is running 32:1, probably closer to 30:1 as I always add a tad more than the needed amount. I haven't decided yet, but I may just run 32:1 in everything so that I don't have to have 2 different cans of mix. I have always got 32:1 as I mow with nothing but lawn-boy mowers, because of my terraces. I wanted to run 32:1 in it for break-in, at the very least. The low is actually running right at the recommended idle speed or alittle lower. It just purrs and pulls right to full rev without a bog or flat spots, that I can tell. I even figured I would give the provided "Bosch" spark plug a try and it is running good with it. Haven't pulled it to see what color it is. I wanted to give it more run time, before I pulled it to see what it looked like.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ssm1699

Let just say that I am a Lawn Boy hoarder, along with chainsaws. I have 7 different Lawn Boys and they are all 2 strokes. Love them because they are all work horses. The oldest one I have is a cream/white colored and was made by OMC. The "Bosch" spark plug I can almost guarantee that it isn't an actual Bosch because the spark plug number I can find on it comes back as being a Torch number. I can't wait to get it into some logs. I know of some large walnut trees that need to be cut, out at my in-laws farm. That should be a decent start for a break-in work out.


----------



## Bedford T

I hate walnut trees they make a mess. Nice wood but what mess. 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ssm1699

I agree, they do make a mess. The only saving grace with these is the fact that these are out around their fields. There are several that have been dead for years and they need to come down before they come down when crops are in and harder to get to without screwing yields. Been lucky so far that they haven't come down with the storms we have had the last several years.


----------



## Bedford T

Does your farm have AV fuel. Some larger farms have landing strips. That would be nice to have for little tractors and saws and such

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> Does your farm have AV fuel. Some larger farms have landing strips. That would be nice to have for tractors and saws and such
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Do you run AV fuel in your saws?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## TheBigGiantPowerHead

It seems farmertec has put high idle on the newer carbs as a work around for the non functional switch shaft and trigger. Here's a video ------>


----------



## Bedford T

Yep


ammoaddict said:


> Do you run AV fuel in your saws?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## rich450es

TheBigGiantPowerHead said:


> It seems farmertec has put high idle on the newer carbs as a work around for the non functional switch shaft and trigger. Here's a video ------>



My kit came with the same carburetor but high idel still didn't work......


----------



## TheBigGiantPowerHead

rich450es said:


> My kit came with the same carburetor but high idel still didn't work......


I see. I'm going to use OEM carb and trigger parts anyway, so It don't really matter to me. Would be interesting to see how it functions in one of the complete Holzfforma clone saws though.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

It looks like their aware of the problem and not sure how to fix it or unwilling to redo the mold so it works. Guess we’ll see


----------



## ssm1699

My carb has that and it doesn't do anything on mine either. The my in-laws farm is very small, so no av gas. When I say small, I am talking a total of about 50 acres, about 30 that is tillable. They do crop sharing with their nephews, who farm a couple thousand acres. The gas I run is nothing but 92 octane Ethanol Free fuel. The place I get it at has individual nozzles for each grade of fuel they sell. All my small engines and outboard get that 92 octane ethanol free fuel. I pour my small cans of fuel, once it is older, into my daily driver and then get fresh. My daily driver is old enough that it doesn't bother it to run mixed in it. If it starts giving that truck crap, then I will put it into my other truck and I know it won't bother that one.


----------



## Bedford T

I add marvel oil to my cars gas. Both have over 100000 and I think it helps prolong their life so if I had left over I would not hesitate to pour it in my tank. I have about 12 motomix cans I mix and refill. I found two that were two years old. I emptied them in a glass jar and the fuel was dry and intact. I use av100 now. But the regular non has lasted a long time. Those cans are nice to take with you. Much better than a pour can for me.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

I refill those little cans too. Fuel will last MUCH longer in a full metal can than it will in a half empty plastic can.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

I was surprised the shape the fuel was in. If I go help somebody cut I can take some cans, it's clean, simple, much safer and easier to handle and tote.

I also noticed one can fills a 660 completely with about 4 oz left over so I did not fill them all the way

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ssm1699

I was just thinking, has anyone had issues with starting their saws and the high idle issue not being fixed, during the winter month's? I haven't done anything with my high idle not working and starting, since I built my saw. I am just asking since we are starting to have some serious bi-polar temps here and will probably be doing some cutting this fall/winter.


----------



## ammoaddict

Mine doesn't start well at all, 10-15 pulls. I don't know how it will do in cooler weather.


ssm1699 said:


> I was just thinking, has anyone had issues with starting their saws and the high idle issue not being fixed, during the winter month's? I haven't done anything with my high idle not working and starting, since I built my saw. I am just asking since we are starting to have some serious bi-polar temps here and will probably be doing some cutting this fall/winter.



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

ammoaddict said:


> Mine doesn't start well at all, 10-15 pulls. I don't know how it will do in cooler weather.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



Mine is usually running within about 6 pulls, as is right now. I just wasn't sure if I need to be worrying about fixing the high idle issue, before the temps really drop. I wonder if part of my not having issues, is the fact that I am not running a decomp. Just a thought.


----------



## Bedford T

Mine starts within 5 pulls and has a fast idle. Runs like great. I trust it too 

You built it. Fix it, lol

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

If it does not concerned you, winter is not going to effect it. Your shoulder is what misses the decomp.


.


ssm1699 said:


> Mine is usually running within about 6 pulls, as is right now. I just wasn't sure if I need to be worrying about fixing the high idle issue, before the temps really drop. I wonder if part of my not having issues, is the fact that I am not running a decomp. Just a thought.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## William Prophett

I agree with Bedford. I noticed no difference in the way my saws(660's) start in the winter and summer. I don't have "high idle" and not because I "can't" fix it, but because I "haven't" fixed it, or needed to. Mine pop within 2 pulls and are running within 5-6.


----------



## William Prophett

ammoaddict said:


> Mine doesn't start well at all, 10-15 pulls. I don't know how it will do in cooler weather.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


I hate to say this, but it sounds like it isn't holding the fuel charge in the system "well". If you have the ability to pressure test the fuel circuit, I would do it. Also, I would vac/pressure test the top end as well. You could be losing vacuum and not pulling the fuel charge well enough. Start with the simple stuff. Check the impulse line. Check to make sure the carb is seated well. Check tank vent. Get rid of the kit fuel filter and put on an OEM.


----------



## ssm1699

I just figured I would ask, since this is my first go with this kit and with a 660 as well. If it isn't going to affect starting it in the winter, I will probably just let it go as it doesn't bother me as is now.


----------



## ammoaddict

William Prophett said:


> I hate to say this, but it sounds like it isn't holding the fuel charge in the system "well". If you have the ability to pressure test the fuel circuit, I would do it. Also, I would vac/pressure test the top end as well. You could be losing vacuum and not pulling the fuel charge well enough. Start with the simple stuff. Check the impulse line. Check to make sure the carb is seated well. Check tank vent. Get rid of the kit fuel filter and put on an OEM.


Don't be afraid to say anything. It used to crank a little better than that, but not much better. I did all the tests when I put it together and I haven't even cut anything with it yet. It's had about a tank and a half if fuel through it just heat cycling and listening to it run. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

ammoaddict said:


> Don't be afraid to say anything. It used to crank a little better than that, but not much better. I did all the tests when I put it together and I haven't even cut anything with it yet. It's had about a tank and a half if fuel through it just heat cycling and listening to it run.
> One of mine got a good workout today. I've noticed that the clutch has gotten a tiny bit weaker. I'm gonna upgrade to the Oregon package. I probably have 50 tanks through this one.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

One of mine got a good workout today. I've noticed that the clutch has gotten a tiny bit weaker. I'm gonna upgrade to the Oregon package. I probably have 50 tanks through this one.


----------



## William Prophett

This bar was new on this saw when I built it.


----------



## ammoaddict

I hope to try my hand at milling with mine if the weather ever cools down. I hate hot weather. It's turns a fun project to a pain in the rear for me.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

ammoaddict said:


> I hope to try my hand at milling with mine if the weather ever cools down. I hate hot weather. It's turns a fun project to a pain in the rear for me.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Seems like the direction my business is going. We have a woodworking business and started milling to build a barn, and now everyone around us wants stuff milled. I've been booked milling for 2 months solid. I'm milling all the lumber for a 12x16 shed right now.


----------



## ssm1699

So, I have read that the rope rotor's will break? What breaks on them? Last night I fired mine up and the not for the starter handle came undone and pulled the pull rope back in. I wound the rotor a little and re-knotted it in the handle. Now when I start the saw, a bind occurs and the rope won't recoil back in. I pull the entire assembly off the saw and I have no issues with it.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

The rotor normally cracks and come apart. 
When your knot came out the spring unwound to fast and caused the rotor to go past it’s neutral stop point then go backwards. That sometimes causes the spring to bend where it attaches to the rotor. 
To check it Slowly unwind the spring and carefully pull the rotor off and check the spring.


----------



## ssm1699

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> The rotor normally cracks and come apart.
> When your knot came out the spring unwound to fast and caused the rotor to go past it’s neutral stop point then go backwards. That sometimes causes the spring to bend where it attaches to the rotor.
> To check it Slowly unwind the spring and carefully pull the rotor off and check the spring.



Sounds good. I will do that.


----------



## ssm1699

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> The rotor normally cracks and come apart.
> When your knot came out the spring unwound to fast and caused the rotor to go past it’s neutral stop point then go backwards. That sometimes causes the spring to bend where it attaches to the rotor.
> To check it Slowly unwind the spring and carefully pull the rotor off and check the spring.



Well, I tried to pull it apart, but I sheared the contact points on my Torx impact bit trying to get the axle bolt out, to pull the rotor. I have other bits, but I was on limited time over my lunch hour. Hope Irwin gets back to me, since my bit isn't even 2 months old and definitely hasn't been abused. Did it with a short handle 1/4" ratchet.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

You don’t have to pull the center. Just remove the clip and pull the rotor up and off. Be carful the spring is under it and maybe attached It could jump out if you don’t make sure it’s detached from the rotor.


----------



## ssm1699

OK. All the other recoil starters that I have had to pull apart, the bolt/screw had to be removed. Learn something new every day.


----------



## ssm1699

Well, I got it apart and it doesn't look like the spring is bent. Maybe it was binding up because I had it wound to far/tight.






Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

That does look ok. You could have had it to tight. 
I usually go about 2 rounds more to tighten it up.


----------



## William Prophett

Hey guys, update on my clutch. I said the other day that I had noticed that the clutch was getting weak on one of my 660 builds. I ordered the Oregon/Hyway clutch kit and replaced it today. There wasn't anything wrong with the kit clutch and drum. There was just a bunch of gunk inside the PTO side making it slip. I still threw the new Oregon kit in, but wanted to set the record straight. This one saw has about 50+ tanks of milling lumber through it. Still purring...


----------



## homervirden

So no worries about replacing the kit's clutch then. 80 -100 bucks for an oem so that's good news.


----------



## William Prophett

homervirden said:


> So no worries about replacing the kit's clutch then. 80 -100 bucks for an oem so that's good news.


Oregon has a complete kit with Oregon drum and sprocket, bearing, both spacers and E clip and a Highway clutch for $50....


----------



## William Prophett

homervirden said:


> So no worries about replacing the kit's clutch then. 80 -100 bucks for an oem so that's good news.


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/173554614916


----------



## Bedford T

That's an old style clutch


William Prophett said:


> https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/173554614916



http://thechainsawkitguy.com

https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## William Prophett

Bedford T said:


> That's an old style clutch
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


2002 is the new clutch. 2005 is the old one. 2002 is 6


Bedford T said:


> That's an old style clutch
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


2002 is the new 6 coil clutch. 2005 is the old style 5 coil. Doesn't make a whole lot of sense that they would have a "smaller" number for the new style clutch, but that is my understanding.


----------



## ssm1699

Well, got the recoil assembly back together and no more issues. Saw fired up just fine and it was 35*F out when I did it. Ran like a champ. Now to figure out when to get it into some wood. It is so freaking wet here, from all the rain.


----------



## ammoaddict

I discovered a problem with my 660 kit yesterday. The connecting rod is a few thousanths shorter than it should be. When I built the saw the inside of the piston skirts we're hitting the crank counterweights. I dremeled enough off for it to clear. When I checked squish it was 
.065. I just got the new hyway popup piston and cylinder kit for it and when I installed it that piston is hitting the counterweights as well. So if two different Pistons are hitting and the squish is larger than normal. That tells me the connecting rod is a little shorter than OEM specs.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

Did you do anything additional? Adjust anything else?

http://thechainsawkitguy.com

https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

No. I used only kit parts. I just wasn't ever happy with it, so now I was going to replace some parts to make it right.
I had read others were having Pistons that hit the crank and everyone thought it was just the piston skirts too thick, including me. But now I know it's the connecting rod.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> No. I used only kit parts. I just wasn't ever happy with it, so now I was going to replace some parts to make it right.
> I had read others were having Pistons that hit the crank and everyone thought it was just the piston skirts too thick, including me. But now I know it's the connecting rod.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


I meant like shaving the landing, using different bearings, anything? Sucks

http://thechainsawkitguy.com

https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

No, all kit parts, no modifications at all, except for opening up the muffler baffles a bit.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> No, all kit parts, no modifications at all, except for opening up the muffler baffles a bit.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


I am with you. You said you shaved some so I was asking to spark a memory. I understand.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com

https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> I am with you. You said you shaved some so I was asking to spark a memory. I understand.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


Yes, I had to shave the inside of the piston skirts to keep it from hitting the crank.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

I didn't have any issues with my piston skirt hitting. I checked that before I even continued my build. I find it interesting that your piston skirt was hitting, but you had a squish of .065. But my piston skirt wasn't hitting and I had a squish of about .035 with the base gasket. If I deleted the base gasket, my piston would hit the squish band and wouldn't do a full revolution. I ran the thinner of my 2 base gaskets to keep my squish as low as possible though. I would have to go back and look through the thread to see exactly what my squish numbers were. I am running total kit parts, except for the crank seals and the base gasket. Those are Hy-way parts. This reminds me that I need to pull my saw out and start it. Been awhile since I have done as such. I also need to put in my HO oil pump.


----------



## ammoaddict

It's because the connecting rod is shorter, making the piston closer to the crank and farther from the top of the cylinder. Get it?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ssm1699

I get it. I just find it odd that they have that much difference in the manufacturing discrepancies, between batches.


----------



## Bedford T

They come from different manufacturer's


ssm1699 said:


> I get it. I just find it odd that they have that much difference in the manufacturing discrepancies, between batches.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Yes they do. Just like the leaking gas cap with the flat gasket. They finally sent me a replacement after pulling hens teeth and it has an Oring and does not leak. I had already bought a replacement but I just wanted to see what it would take for them to replace something and it was alot.


Bedford T said:


> They come from different manufacturer's
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

The system is rigged to make you give up. I love them otherwise but not about that. Now ya got an extra.


ammoaddict said:


> Yes they do. Just like the leaking gas cap with the flat gasket. They finally sent me a replacement after pulling hens teeth and it has an Oring and does not leak. I had already bought a replacement but I just wanted to see what it would take for them to replace something and it was alot.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Yes it is. You only get one email a day or every other day. I think it took about 10 emails 2 pictures and a video to get a gas cap and then they asked me to order something else so they could combine shipping but I didn't.


Bedford T said:


> The system is rigged to make you give up. I love them otherwise but not about that. Now ya got an extra.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

That thing about ordering something else is brilliant. They make the mistake and you pay the ride. They improved on capitalism and made more brutal. 1$ American dollar is worth about 6.5 Chinese dollars there.


ammoaddict said:


> Yes it is. You only get one email a day or every other day. I think it took about 10 emails 2 pictures and a video to get a gas cap and then they asked me to order something else so they could combine shipping but I didn't.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

I had no idea what the exchange rate was. They are making serious money then. A $200 saw kit in our money would be $1900 in their money, right?


Bedford T said:


> That thing about ordering something else is brilliant. They make the mistake and you pay the ride. They improved on capitalism and made more brutal. 1$ American dollar is worth about 6.5 Chinese dollars there.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

It's high. 6.5x 200= 1300

About the actual cost of big Bertha lol


ammoaddict said:


> I had no idea what the exchange rate was. They are making serious money then. A $200 saw kit in our money would be $1900 in their money, right?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Well so much for my math skills. lol. I was thinking 300 dollars but typed 200. It's been a long day.
Still they are making killer money.


Bedford T said:


> It's high. 6.5x 200= 1300
> 
> About the actual cost of big Bertha lol
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## 8wr_zj

Well I have been reading for months and I bought my kit over black friday when famertec was offering 35% off. 202 for a 90cc saw shipped to my door is a killer deal. I have bought a few oem parts to help the saw be a reliable runner. I will see if the carb is ok and if it is not I will get a new one. Thank yall for all of the information on the builds.


----------



## Bedford T

Welcome you will have fun and learn a lot


8wr_zj said:


> Well I have been reading for months and I bought my kit over black friday when famertec was offering 35% off. 202 for a 90cc saw shipped to my door is a killer deal. I have bought a few oem parts to help the saw be a reliable runner. I will see if the carb is ok and if it is not I will get a new one. Thank yall for all of the information on the builds.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

Hey guys first time poster, thanks for all the info already as have have built 2 660 with your help.
On both saws I received defective brake tension springs that were bent off to the side.
After many discussion with miss Xu at farmers they wanting to send a pj26048 spring which when I looked it up said it was for a 360 and smaller saws wondering if this will work on a 660
Also just order three more Sol's once this 361 the case that they sent had many flaws they're saying it's okay to put it together when to get your opinion the other picture shows that it came out of the mold slightly warped and underdeveloped


----------



## Bedford T

Hi, welcome.

Hell no to both.

They will keep sending the wrong part. It's to their benefit is why. We seen this a hundred times.

This is not against you. But we have trained them by not holding them to their commitment.

I would not use the case, and the spring will never work 

They have the advantage of making you suffer and they will. On my website I tell you how to handle it if it's important to ya. But you gotta do it Excatly and stick to it. Mostly guys are to big of pussies or lazy and they screw us time and time again.

Sorry this happened to ya.


Ridge1 said:


> Hey guys first time poster, thanks for all the info already as have have built 2 660 with your help.
> On both saws I received defective brake tension springs that were bent off to the side.
> After many discussion with miss Xu at farmers they wanting to send a pj26048 spring which when I looked it up said it was for a 360 and smaller saws wondering if this will work on a 660
> Also just order three more Sol's once this 361 the case that they sent had many flaws they're saying it's okay to put it together when to get your opinion the other picture shows that it came out of the mold slightly warped and underdeveloped
> View attachment 689996
> View attachment 689997



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

Thanks BT
I'll check out your post and I will stick with it I'm planning on building a set of these saws for myself and I want to make sure they're right don't mind a little imperfections that I can fix I actually enjoy it
The o38 did I just received looks pretty good
minor pitting in the case but I think sealant along with the gasket will take care of that
I also received farmertec bar and chain I'm anxious to use it and give some feedback
Already started with cc company
Thanks


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Yeah, I wouldn’t accept that either. First Their going to ask you to take a partial refund of the case price. 
Just the answering back and forth about that took me a week. 

Checking out BT’s site will lead you the right direction on handling it. 

I was surprised when the high idle worked out the box on ole Dusty. 
I couldn’t believe it when my other 4 never worked. The control switch still feels weak though.


----------



## Ridge1

OK PayPal has escalated my three cases which two of them involve break tension Springs of a 660 and 360 and the 361 and the other one involves the case of the Chainsaw 361
I've already finished the 03 8 today with the help of Bedford T's videos
I did end using a grommet plus a small T 27 M 4 thread screw they provided for the Shroud that's behind the handle
Being new at this I did get confused when the handle had its own ground wire coming out and then also the Magneto had its couple of wires coming out had to end up taking one of them off
Thanks for the videos and the advice
So if I do want to purchase OEM products anyone have a suggestion for the best website


----------



## Bedford T

Don't you have a local Stihl place to use? eBay would be my second choice. 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Ridge1 said:


> I did end using a grommet plus a small T 27 M 4 thread screw they provided for the Shroud that's behind the handle



If you are happy with your 380 saw replace that screw with the correct one. 1124 084 8700. The 4m are untrustworthy.



http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

Thanks for that info
I'm actually having a problem now getting it started
I watched all of your YouTube videos on the 380
I checked the spark with a spark tester
Good
Using the same gas that I fired up the 660 with today
I did see that that are filtered that they send with 038 doesn't connect real well when you have it in choke mode but I manually put it in place just for starting purposes
I do see that after I pulled in about 50 times I have a little gas coming through the muffler so I don't think the little thing behind the carburetor is stopped up I did check that little metal hole when I saw you had plastic in yours but I did not check the rubber fuel line that goes from there to the actual case
All I really know about timing it's just line up the key.
One thing I noticed on this saw it only had one set of magnets on the flywheel I think the 660 had a set on each side
Any thoughts
Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

Ridge1 said:


> Thanks for that info
> I'm actually having a problem now getting it started
> I watched all of your YouTube videos on the 380
> I checked the spark with a spark tester
> Good
> Using the same gas that I fired up the 660 with today
> I did see that that are filtered that they send with 038 doesn't connect real well when you have it in choke mode but I manually put it in place just for starting purposes
> I do see that after I pulled in about 50 times I have a little gas coming through the muffler so I don't think the little thing behind the carburetor is stopped up I did check that little metal hole when I saw you had plastic in yours but I did not check the rubber fuel line that goes from there to the actual case
> All I really know about timing it's just line up the key.
> One thing I noticed on this saw it only had one set of magnets on the flywheel I think the 660 had a set on each side
> Any thoughts
> Thanks


I am going hate to tell you this. Did you not see my videos? After I built it I found it would not start, it did once. There is a video of them running twice, mine and one other. Once you get it started 8000rpm was max.

On my website I tell you about the 380 trouble. Sorry you did not read it.

Maybe the kit improved and my statement was not helpful or maybe it was

Something is wrong with that saw. below are videos, a cry for help if you will and more after




Believe it or not I am going to have another go at it. I have an idea. It would not be an easy fix. If it works out I bet there will be a lot of saws come to life, I will share it if it works or when I begin.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

Yes I saw the many carbs changes
The filter change to OEM
The video where you found plastic in the fuel line
I thought I watch them all but I didn't see the one where you didn't get it running right
Thanks for that info I am starting on the o36 now


----------



## cuinrearview

Hey anybody see the all OEM 066 in the trading post that sold for $450 over the weekend? I @'d Bedford, I thought he'd direct everyone there since he said they never sell anywhere ever for that price.


----------



## Bedford T

Ridge1 said:


> Yes I saw the many carbs changes
> The filter change to OEM
> The video where you found plastic in the fuel line
> I thought I watch them all but I didn't see the one where you didn't get it running right
> Thanks for that info I am starting on the o36 now


That one will run. I don't think you could buy a blue 380 and compare it to a kit and determine the flaw. 

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## gary courtney

cuinrearview said:


> Hey anybody see the all OEM 066 in the trading post that sold for $450 over the weekend? I @'d Bedford, I thought he'd direct everyone there since he said they never sell anywhere ever for that price.


you must be on ignore


----------



## cuinrearview

gary courtney said:


> you must be on ignore


It's ok. The word will get out.


----------



## Ridge1

Bedford T said:


> That one will run. I don't think you could buy a blue 380 and compare it to a kit and determine the flaw.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


I bought the ms380 parts kit and assembled 
it seems like a pretty sturdy kit


----------



## Bedford T

I been hoping they fixed what ever. If you read what I wrote, I was most impressed with the parts quailty. Mine just would not run. We really should be posting the 380 in that thread. Post up a video of it cutting some wood.



Ridge1 said:


> View attachment 690666
> View attachment 690667
> 
> 
> I bought the ms380 parts kit and assembled
> it seems like a pretty sturdy kit



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

That's the thing I could not get this one started


----------



## Bedford T

Here is the ms380 thread
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...share_tid=306596&share_fid=16367&share_type=t

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

Okay after getting my credit card company involved they just went ahead and did a chargeback for the 360 one case that had holes and cracks in it and the Three Springs that were bit off to the side
I'm no longer able to sign into my Hutzel account so I don't know if something's wrong with their website or if I just pissed them off


----------



## Bedford T

Order off of eBay. You called their hand. Go around them. They play hardball. It won't last, get what you need now and come back to it in a month. Or I will order for you. It's not the end. It's the beginning of changing them. You won.

The upside you did not pay twice for broken parts or pay shipping. They screwed you you fought back. Don't second guess that 



Ridge1 said:


> Okay after getting my credit card company involved they just went ahead and did a chargeback for the 360 one case that had holes and cracks in it and the Three Springs that were bit off to the side
> I'm no longer able to sign into my Hutzel account so I don't know if something's wrong with their website or if I just pissed them off



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

I agree I'm happy with my credit card company looking out for me
I went to the Stihl dealer on Monday ordered some of the parts that I needed
Have you had any trouble logging into your hustle account


----------



## Bedford T

No they did that out of spite. I just posted an article in chainsaw thread. You will know it when you see it.

They want money it will unlock. They are sending a message. Don't be intimidated.


Ridge1 said:


> I agree I'm happy with my credit card company looking out for me
> I went to the Stihl dealer on Monday ordered some of the parts that I needed
> Have you had any trouble logging into your hustle account



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

Thanks for the support I am going to be checking out Ebay to find what I need so thanks for that info also


----------



## Ridge1

It's the 361 case that I had a problem with I think I inadvertently put 360 

I'm building the 360 saw that right now
Probably my stupidity I placed an order yesterday for some case tools. I saw they had on sale and of course my account work long enough to place that order and then it stopped working

Thanks


----------



## Ridge1

I guess the word to the wise of anybody that's thinking about doing the saw kits maybe take your time I got excited I bought one in October and then I bought four more really quick before I got the issue with the first saw taken care of


----------



## ammoaddict

I know I won't be buying anything else from them. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

They was a dollar on the table. That door will reopen. That wanted you to act hurt and scared to deter other people. If anyone needs a part and can not figure it out speak up. You will not do without because you stood up for right. Will not.


Ridge1 said:


> It's the 361 case that I had a problem with I think I inadvertently put 360
> 
> I'm building the 360 saw that right now
> Probably my stupidity I placed an order yesterday for some case tools. I saw they had on sale and of course my account work long enough to place that order and then it stopped working
> 
> Thanks



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

Ok I found a leak at bottom seam of the ms038 I just asembled is this a defect that can repair myself or do I have to get another handle


----------



## Bedford T

No if you gassed it.

If you have a plastic welder you could try. Glue won't work. Can you tell how much area is leaking. Just depends.

If all else fails you could take a map torch and try.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

To my knowledge that is first leak reported

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

I did put it up for a day I had gas in it trying to start it and when I went out today I notice some gas that leaked out not all of the gas that leaked out
I'll inspect it more tomorrow and let you know


----------



## Ridge1

I did get a email that my order has shipped out today even without me asking


----------



## Bedford T

Use your pressure gun on pressure with soapy water to check that, something you do when you are building it. 

Check the cap, it is most like to leak and run under.


Ridge1 said:


> I did put it up for a day I had gas in it trying to start it and when I went out today I notice some gas that leaked out not all of the gas that leaked out
> I'll inspect it more tomorrow and let you know



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

They don't have a pressure gun at the moment but I do have one coming in the latest tools that I ordered so I've been putting my chainsaws together shooting in the dark I was getting lucky right up until this 03 8


----------



## Bedford T

I would stop using them. 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

Sorry I meant I don't have a pressure gun at the moment but I do have one on order

Interesting Lee enough I went down to my local Stihl dealer today which is a hardware store to pick up the brake tension spring for the 066 and I ordered two more one for the another 066 the 360 and for the 361
While I was there I asked the repair guy if he ever sold any used Stihl chainsaw parts and he took me to a room in the back which was full of old Husqvarna and Stihl chainsaws probably from 50 years of them repairing these things so I've got a whole new source of parts that are OEM


----------



## Bedford T

I understood. It would be my nature to say things that are not nice when I hear of guys building saws and not testing them, while they build them. So instead I just said stop using them, as was a stab at a place holder statement. The underlying purpose is to be helpful before it's to late.

You might want to understand/look into why.

Sounds like you hit a honey hole on the parts, I find the right balance of Stihl parts makes these saws great saws. Now just hope he shares at a reasonable price.


Ridge1 said:


> Sorry I meant I don't have a pressure gun at the moment but I do have one on order
> 
> Interesting Lee enough I went down to my local Stihl dealer today which is a hardware store to pick up the brake tension spring for the 066 and I ordered two more one for the another 066 the 360 and for the 361
> While I was there I asked the repair guy if he ever sold any used Stihl chainsaw parts and he took me to a room in the back which was full of old Husqvarna and Stihl chainsaws probably from 50 years of them repairing these things so I've got a whole new source of parts that are OEM



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

I did order a 660 brake tension spring and it was like 5 and I was able to get it in just a couple of days so that was well worth it for me
What I was surprised to see is after I had ordered a Husqvarna Scabbard online and pay like $10 for it the Stihl dealer was selling theirs for like under $3 for a 36-in I was really surprised that the price but the quality is a super thin Scabbard
Back to the o38 I'm going to double-check the vent in the tank like I saw on your video make sure there's no rubber blocking the vent I'll drain the fuel and let all that are out then when my pressure gun gets here I'll do the test on the tank it's definitely not the cap because it doesn't leak when it's on its side it only leaks when it's upright there wasn't even enough fuel in it to reach the cap only put enough in there to make sure I could start it and test it never got it started so I went through all your videos and now I'm going through the check list on all the items that you pointed out
Have you had any more luck on your 038


----------



## Bedford T

No, I have not touched it, to many things, completely finished my 200t hope to start it in a couple days. Then I will move on 038. That saw haunts my dreams


Ridge1 said:


> I did order a 660 brake tension spring and it was like 5 and I was able to get it in just a couple of days so that was well worth it for me
> What I was surprised to see is after I had ordered a Husqvarna Scabbard online and pay like $10 for it the Stihl dealer was selling theirs for like under $3 for a 36-in I was really surprised that the price but the quality is a super thin Scabbard
> Back to the o38 I'm going to double-check the vent in the tank like I saw on your video make sure there's no rubber blocking the vent I'll drain the fuel and let all that are out then when my pressure gun gets here I'll do the test on the tank it's definitely not the cap because it doesn't leak when it's on its side it only leaks when it's upright there wasn't even enough fuel in it to reach the cap only put enough in there to make sure I could start it and test it never got it started so I went through all your videos and now I'm going through the check list on all the items that you pointed out
> Have you had any more luck on your 038



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Guys, huztl has the Stihl case cracking tool with the different adapter for less than 40$. What a buy. Having this on hand will make you a happy builder if you ever need it.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Ridge1 said:


> I did order a 660 brake tension spring and it was like 5 and I was able to get it in just a couple of days so that was well worth it for me
> What I was surprised to see is after I had ordered a Husqvarna Scabbard online and pay like $10 for it the Stihl dealer was selling theirs for like under $3 for a 36-in I was really surprised that the price but the quality is a super thin Scabbard
> Back to the o38 I'm going to double-check the vent in the tank like I saw on your video make sure there's no rubber blocking the vent I'll drain the fuel and let all that are out then when my pressure gun gets here I'll do the test on the tank it's definitely not the cap because it doesn't leak when it's on its side it only leaks when it's upright there wasn't even enough fuel in it to reach the cap only put enough in there to make sure I could start it and test it never got it started so I went through all your videos and now I'm going through the check list on all the items that you pointed out
> Have you had any more luck on your 038


I am posting the reason in an hour or so when it finishes rendering

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

I ordered the case cracking tool it came in within reason less than 10 days I think used it on the o36 that I messed up a seal on it worked fine
And since hustle never responded and didn't want their crappy 361 case back I just remove the bearing seal and put it on the o36 where I screwed up to seal


----------



## Bedford T

Which of the cracking tools did you order the one piece


Ridge1 said:


> I ordered the case cracking tool it came in within reason less than 10 days I think used it on the o36 that I messed up a seal on it worked fine
> And since hustle never responded and didn't want their crappy 361 case back I just remove the bearing seal and put it on the o36 where I screwed up to seal



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

Yes I ordered the one piece it came in I just saw something else that helps you remove the bearings and install the bearings I did order that one but it has not come in yet supposed to be here Saturday


----------



## Ridge1

Sorry I mean I ordered it on the 22nd it's supposed to come in Saturday it's the one that has all the pieces for the different size saws


----------



## Bedford T

That will come in handy from time to time. You are in control. They even have the seal puller. 

Guess they know with their saws we will need them lol lol. That's so funny. I am bad.

Seriously having the right tool you can proceed confidently. Much less cussing. I have the Stihl tools and spent a bundle on them. Those are priced Right.


Ridge1 said:


> Sorry I mean I ordered it on the 22nd it's supposed to come in Saturday it's the one that has all the pieces for the different size saws



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Be sure you are turning the adapter the right way or you will screw the tip up, my son turned it wrong and uh oh. I had to replace the screw. Every Stihl guy needs a set if they don't have some. You just hope you never need them but if you do the job is made easy and the result is great compared to removing seals with screws lol


Ridge1 said:


> Sorry I mean I ordered it on the 22nd it's supposed to come in Saturday it's the one that has all the pieces for the different size saws



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Is it me or are these blue saws a little smaller than the orange ones.




chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ericm979

The older C clamp style case splitter doesn't fit an MS660(clone). The crank's too fat.


----------



## Bedford T

I thought they made one that size, I thought they came in two sizes, good to know. They have the correct multi saw splitter. That's great to care for the saws we own. Lower cost makes it easier to have one before you need it 

The 660 is a fatty, lol


ericm979 said:


> The older C clamp style case splitter doesn't fit an MS660(clone). The crank's too fat.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## mokelv

I am new to the forum, joined to learn more about building a clone MS660 and to mill some lumber. My kit came in today, hurrah! Unfortunately there is a crack in the crankcase on the PTO side. I attached a picture, looks like a pin that holds a spring for the brake. Any advice? I plan to contact them in the morning, my question is should I build it anyway or is this going to fail from the crack. Thanks in advance for any help you all can provide.


----------



## Bedford T

mokelv said:


> I am new to the forum, joined to learn more about building a clone MS660 and to mill some lumber. My kit came in today, hurrah! Unfortunately there is a crack in the crankcase on the PTO side. I attached a picture, looks like a pin that holds a spring for the brake. Any advice? I plan to contact them in the morning, my question is should I build it anyway or is this going to fail from the crack. Thanks in advance for any help you all can provide.



Welcome,

Return it. Brake pin. Will be under pressure.

They will ask for pictures and then tell you to use it. Magnesium is what the case is made out of. Great until it cracks.

To be happy don't. There was another guy recently same problem, same response.

Tell them to replace it or your credit card company will charge them back. Play hardball if needed.

You have a chance to make it great. I hope you enjoy the journey. I have. Here if you need help.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## mokelv

Bedford T said:


> Welcome,
> 
> Return it. Brake pin. Will be under pressure.
> 
> They will ask for pictures and then tell you to use it. Magnesium is what the case is made out of. Great until it cracks.
> 
> To be happy don't. There was another guy recently same problem, same response.
> 
> Tell them to replace it or your credit card company will charge them back. Play hardball if needed.
> 
> You have a chance to make it great. I hope you enjoy the journey. I have. Here if you need help.
> 
> Thanks For the reply and the for advice. I have some white oak to mill this weekend, was hoping to run the saw and make some lumber. I guess it will need to wait, read another post about using the CC as leverage, will do that.
> 
> Thanks!


----------



## ammoaddict

mokelv said:


> I am new to the forum, joined to learn more about building a clone MS660 and to mill some lumber. My kit came in today, hurrah! Unfortunately there is a crack in the crankcase on the PTO side. I attached a picture, looks like a pin that holds a spring for the brake. Any advice? I plan to contact them in the morning, my question is should I build it anyway or is this going to fail from the crack. Thanks in advance for any help you all can provide.


Yes to what Bedford said. They jerk you around hoping you will give up. Don't give up.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## mokelv

ammoaddict said:


> Yes to what Bedford said. They jerk you around hoping you will give up. Don't give up.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


thanks for the advice...There is not a way to email from what I can tell from their website, I have to create an account and either chat or call them.


----------



## ammoaddict

mokelv said:


> thanks for the advice...There is not a way to email from what I can tell from their website, I have to create an account and either chat or call them.


[email protected]l.net

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## mokelv

ammoaddict said:


> [email protected]
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Got it! Thanks!


----------



## Bedford T

The best way is to use the email that shows in the transaction in PayPal. It maybe the one you were given. Don't take anything for granted.

The website has a message system. It might require an email.

Provide photo
Provide a written statement of issue and replacement request.
Make a PayPal case, wait a few days for it to be registered
Make the chargeback request with cc.

You do that so they have a mark on their PayPal which effects their costs with PayPal. PayPal is their lifeline. That helps everyone behind you and will long term help correct this problem they have.



mokelv said:


> Got it! Thanks!



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> The best way is to use the email that shows in the transaction in PayPal. It maybe the one you were given. Don't take anything for granted.
> 
> The website has a message system. It might require an email.
> 
> Provide photo
> Provide a written statement of issue and replacement request.
> Make a PayPal case, wait a few days for it to be registered
> Make the chargeback request with cc.
> 
> You do that so they have a mark on their PayPal which effects their costs with PayPal. PayPal is their lifeline. That helps everyone behind you and will long term help correct this problem they have.
> 
> 
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Good advice

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## mokelv

Bedford T said:


> The best way is to use the email that shows in the transaction in PayPal. It maybe the one you were given. Don't take anything for granted.
> 
> The website has a message system. It might require an email.
> 
> Provide photo
> Provide a written statement of issue and replacement request.
> Make a PayPal case, wait a few days for it to be registered
> Make the chargeback request with cc.
> 
> You do that so they have a mark on their PayPal which effects their costs with PayPal. PayPal is their lifeline. That helps everyone behind you and will long term help correct this problem they have.
> 
> 
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Should I request both crankcase halves? It appears that the surface where the cylinder seals to the crankcase is machined on both halves at the same time. otherwise with their loose tolerances, there could be a leak. Thanks for all the advice so far, I sent an email describing the problem earlier today, will update everyone of the progress. 
Thanks!


----------



## Bedford T

mokelv said:


> Should I request both crankcase halves? It appears that the surface where the cylinder seals to the crankcase is machined on both halves at the same time. otherwise with their loose tolerances, there could be a leak. Thanks for all the advice so far, I sent an email describing the problem earlier today, will update everyone of the progress.
> Thanks!


I know what you mean. In a world where money did not matter. I would order another off eBay from them you are guaranteed the correct undamaged item and make them pick both of your kit ones up and give them your eBay order number so they know. They may not care and still not want to help. They are weird.

Chances are high if you got one half from them it would fit if there is no big lag in time.

Their cases are great when not damaged. The case is the heart of the saw. So your concern is warranted and it's nice to see another builder interested in a perfect outcome. Cause you can make it happen and produce a hell of a saw.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

mokelv said:


> I am new to the forum, joined to learn more about building a clone MS660 and to mill some lumber. My kit came in today, hurrah! Unfortunately there is a crack in the crankcase on the PTO side. I attached a picture, looks like a pin that holds a spring for the brake. Any advice? I plan to contact them in the morning, my question is should I build it anyway or is this going to fail from the crack. Thanks in advance for any help you all can provide.


It'll take you a long time to get it from Hutzel just have your credit card charge it back and order it from HL Supply it'll come in quicker and I've been getting better parts from them
Hutzel just stopped replying to me about my cases being warped and not made properly


----------



## Mark68

Hi everyone. I'm new to the site and new to kit building. Just ordered a 660 kit and a few other parts. Haven't decided between Hyway or Meteor C\P yet. Have heard both are good.


----------



## Bedford T

Mark68 said:


> Hi everyone. I'm new to the site and new to kit building. Just ordered a 660 kit and a few other parts. Haven't decided between Hyway or Meteor C\P yet. Have heard both are good.



Welcome, Meteor is the only aftermarket that is close to oem. Hyway is good.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Mark68

Hi Bedford. Thanks for the Vacuum pump link. I was looking at one on eBay for $27 but the one from HD might be better quality.


----------



## Bedford T

Mark68 said:


> Hi Bedford. Thanks for the Vacuum pump link. I was looking at one on eBay for $27 but the one from HD might be better quality.


27 sounds good. I was just showing what I had seen. I paid about 30 for mine and it sold out. The Stihl with adapters is about 185 @ the counter

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Mark68

The Stihl looks nice and I love tools but it's way out of my budget. I think the $27 one is like the one you use in your videos. Does it work good?


----------



## Bedford T

Mark68 said:


> The Stihl looks nice and I love tools but it's way out of my budget. I think the $27 one is like the one you use in your videos. Does it work good?


Works just fine. Makes pressure and vacuum.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Mark68

I'll probably go with the Meteor kit. For milling I want dependability and saw some pics on here of a Meteor cylinder. Beautiful!


----------



## Mark68

I was hoping to get a Walbro carb because it seems from reading they might be more adjustable\tuneable than the Tollotson.


----------



## Ridge1

Bedford T said:


> No, I have not touched it, to many things, completely finished my 200t hope to start it in a couple days. Then I will move on 038. That saw haunts my dreams
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Okay I got the ms 380 running
I had just completed the o36 and when I went to start it I had some trouble so I started looking at the fuel I had mixed up some 25 to 1 based on the recommendations and thought it would break it in better but that mix would not start the Saw
Put in the 40 to1 that I had mixed up and 360 fired right up
So I dumped out the gas in the 038 and it also fired up on the first pull
Also figured out that the source of my gas leak was not the handle it was the intake manifold where it's set behind the metal ring so the carb didn't seal properly
I had to make sure the rubber intake boot came through the metal ring that I 
installed over the carb bolts


----------



## Ridge1

Got some new tools have not got to try out the crank installer remover tool yet but the little gray handled spring tool work great for the brake tension spring


----------



## Bedford T

Ridge1 said:


> Got some new tools have not got to try out the crank installer remover tool yet but the little gray handled spring tool work great for the brake tension springView attachment 697134


The brake spring tool is different than the clutch spring tool. I hope you don't get hurt using it that way.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Ridge1 said:


> Okay I got the ms 380 running
> I had just completed the o36 and when I went to start it I had some trouble so I started looking at the fuel I had mixed up some 25 to 1 based on the recommendations and thought it would break it in better but that mix would not start the Saw
> Put in the 40 to1 that I had mixed up and 360 fired right up
> So I dumped out the gas in the 038 and it also fired up on the first pull
> Also figured out that the source of my gas leak was not the handle it was the intake manifold where it's set behind the metal ring so the carb didn't seal properly
> I had to make sure the rubber intake boot came through the metal ring that I View attachment 697133
> installed over the carb bolts


You will enjoy your carburator popoff valve tester when you need to test a carb. What tester did you get to test your saws pressure/vacuum? You built a pile and never tested not one right? 

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

Right I did check the pressure in the tank on the 036 that I just assembled with this new tool
And I found this new clutch spring tool allows you to grab a hold of the pin side of the spring and stretch it right over the pin and your hands are not in the way of anything
Doing it with the modified screwdriver method it was always slipping off the PIN and the Springs flying around
So after about 20 minutes fiddling with this o36 with an oem spring I use this too and it went right on
Where did you buy your vacuum pump from I saw that one on your video it seemed pretty nifty


----------



## Ridge1

All of my saws are screaming machine's now just minor Port modification cleanup of the jugs and just taking my time put them together with with some OEM parts and the help of your and Waltz videos
I have one left to put together the 361


----------



## Bedford T

On the pump: No name brand tester. Another poster says it's on eBay.

On other matters: Things sure have changed. I bet less than 10% of builders give a **** anymore. Funny thing is they ALL disappear. I guess their saws melt and they sulk off. They get their recommendations and follow them off a cliff. Where is pride any more.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Mark68

https://www.ebay.com/itm/21Pcs-Hand...66528896?epid=25025457647&hash=item1cbf2db880


----------



## Mark68

That's the $27 vacuum pump


----------



## Rick Stephens

Bedford T said:


> On other matters: Things sure have changed. I bet less than 10% of builders give a **** anymore. Funny thing is they ALL disappear. I guess their saws melt and they sulk off. They get their recommendations and follow them off a cliff. Where is pride any more.



I'm not gonna disappear. I like my built saws and have been leaning hard on em. One of my 361s is out with a logger. I don't loan out my ported big bore 361 with the 440 carb. But it rips. I will admit I thought I ate it the other day. It sped up, then quit while bucking logs. Pull on the starter and it would hardly turn. But turns out it broke a spring in the Hyway clutch. Going to find an OEM clutch since I think I over powered AM ones. At this point, an MS250, 2 x 361 and a 660 kit. All cutting regular.



Mark68 said:


> That's the $27 vacuum pump



I bought that vac tester. Works fine. Good buy for <$30


----------



## Ridge1

This tool makes installing the crank super easy


----------



## Bedford T

I have the Stihl one. It's super great to hear from you the FarmerTec tool works perfect. Affordable tools are hard to come by. 

I have only used it to pull cases apart.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Ridge1 said:


> This tool makes installing the crank super easyView attachment 697583


Just noticed, I am not criticizing you. In the photo do you see the side that attached is not flush, your bar nuts need to be perfectly tight for more than one reason.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Mark68

Ridge1 said:


> Got some new tools have not got to try out the crank installer remover tool yet but the little gray handled spring tool work great for the brake tension springView attachment 697134


How is the bottom side made? Does crankshaft thread into it?


----------



## Mark68

My wrap handle, flywheel puller and case splitter came in today but no saw yet. Looks like I'll get it piece by piece lol.


----------



## Bedford T

Mark68 said:


> How is the bottom side made? Does crankshaft thread into it?


You choose the adapter that screws on to the big screw















chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Chainsaw Jim

I found a way to eliminate the free port at the exhaust on the big bore kits.

Just do this to a 394/395 piston, lol. 
It also brings the intake up to around 70°.




I'm surprised the recoil spool and pawls have held up to the few times it's been pulled over.


----------



## Bedford T

Looks like a flying saucer from the top. Lol

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ssm1699

I haven't left. I have just been busy and haven't really had a chance to get on here or use my saw, since it was built. It is still running beautiful though. I finally put the HO oil pump on it and what a difference it has made. My saw at this point in time only has had 3 tanks of fuel through it. So it isn't even broke in yet. I hoping to be able to break it in on a big oak that fell out in my in-laws field. tried to upload pictures, but the file size was to big. I will see what I can do about resizing the file and posting it.


----------



## Mark68

Bedford T said:


> You choose the adapter that screws on to the big screw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


It doesn't look like it supports the bearing and would put pressure on it when pulling crank through. I wanted to order one with my saw kit but funds disagreed lol.


----------



## Mark68

Chainsaw Jim said:


> I found a way to eliminate the free port at the exhaust on the big bore kits.
> 
> Just do this to a 394/395 piston, lol.
> It also brings the intake up to around 70°.View attachment 697608
> View attachment 697609
> View attachment 697610
> 
> 
> I'm surprised the recoil spool and pawls have held up to the few times it's been pulled over.


If you did all that grinding by


Chainsaw Jim said:


> I found a way to eliminate the free port at the exhaust on the big bore kits.
> 
> Just do this to a 394/395 piston, lol.
> It also brings the intake up to around 70°.View attachment 697608
> View attachment 697609
> View attachment 697610
> 
> 
> I'm surprised the recoil spool and pawls have held up to the few times it's been pulled over.


Did you hand grind all of that? If so you have a very steady hand lol. Tedious work to get that so even and flat. Looks good.


----------



## Mark68

I've done lots of port work on car engines over the years but I haven't had any experience with chainsaws. I know you can screw up fast if you don't know what you're doing so I'm just going to do a port match and a little cleanup if needed. My hands won't hold up to much more than that anymore anyway lol.


----------



## Bedford T

Mark68 said:


> It doesn't look like it supports the bearing and would put pressure on it when pulling crank through. I wanted to order one with my saw kit but funds disagreed lol.


Mark, do you feel Stihl knows what they are doing? They designed the saw. They designed the tool. I think your concern is unnecessary. I have used the tool half dozen times and it does not harm the bearing, if you don't do something wrong. I have seen you over think issues and that will get in the way of the joy here. Trust the process and lighten up, lol

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Mark68

I don't think concern of sideloading a bearing is over thinking. I've see many bearings fail due to this. That's why a press uses dies to support the bearing. I'd rather be on the cautious side.


----------



## Chainsaw Jim

Mark68 said:


> I don't think concern of sideloading a bearing is over thinking. I've see many bearings fail due to this. That's why a press uses dies to support the bearing. I'd rather be on the cautious side.


As stated, stihl designed both the equipment and the tool. I have the oem stihl crankshaft disassembly and installation tool and it does not brace itself against the inner race for either direction of force. Hammering on them the wrong way is a valid concern though... especially if you are installing ceramics.

And yes, I did that hack job 394 piston pop up by hand.


----------



## Bedford T

Mark68 said:


> I don't think concern of sideloading a bearing is over thinking. I've see many bearings fail due to this. That's why a press uses dies to support the bearing. I'd rather be on the cautious side.


i give up.


----------



## Mark68

I don't doubt it works well. My concern was more about the Chinese bearings. I can't afford the tool right now anyway lol.


----------



## ammoaddict

Mark68 said:


> I don't doubt it works well. My concern was more about the Chinese bearings. I can't afford the tool right now anyway lol.


No bearing should be installed without the races being supported, Chinese or not. I have worked as a technician on textile equipment for the past 38 years. I have installed thousands of bearings. Always support the races, it makes a difference.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Slick50

Mark68 said:


> I don't doubt it works well. My concern was more about the Chinese bearings. I can't afford the tool right now anyway lol.


Your concern is valid . Be careful who you listen to. That man said to tune an 070 to 12,000 rpm and then hook up to governor ! That is crazy ! I called and talked to Rich Dougan about that and he said "Ridiculous" ! Nonsense !


----------



## Slick50

Bedford T said:


> i give up.


Should not have started.


----------



## Bedford T

Slick you are the biggest turd on this forum, foul mouthed and real stupid. This is the last time I ever respond to you. 

Your education on the saw is gained by talking to other people, mine is experience. These are after market carbs/saws and the recommendation was made from with that in mind. your statement was just you running your mouth, like you do so well. 

Live long and be stupid


this post is about an OEM saw and carb. so the 1000 rpm difference is attributed to that.
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...ood-1st-time-video.101972/page-2#post-1601239




Slick50 said:


> Your concern is valid . Be careful who you listen to. That man said to tune an 070 to 12,000 rpm and then hook up to governor ! That is crazy ! I called and talked to Rich Dougan about that and he said "Ridiculous" ! Nonsense !


----------



## Slick50

Bedford T said:


> mine is experience. These are after market carbs/saws and the recommendation was made from with that in mind. your statement was just you running your mouth, like you do so well.


You are an ignorant oaf. You talk about me asking about a saw and in the same breath tell your knowledge to tune was done on a recomendation from someone else. Ignoramous! You are a belligerent,condescending,abrasive if someone questions you moron. You are a huztl lackey that they laugh at when they watch your videos. Get a life. Do you even work or do you draw a govt. check !


----------



## Ridge1

Mark68 said:


> How is the bottom side made? Does crankshaft thread into it?


Yes it comes with several adapters to fit different size crank threads I used it on the 361 yesterday it pulled the clutch side through fine there is no adapter for the flywheel side that came with mine but I don't normally have as much trouble getting that side through without messing up the bearing seal


----------



## Ridge1

Bedford T said:


> Just noticed, I am not criticizing you. In the photo do you see the side that attached is not flush, your bar nuts need to be perfectly tight for more than one reason.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Yes I did have it pretty tight that may have been shadowing from pic angle the crank shaft went in smooth with no heat and little oil
Ill try heat next time
I wish it had adapters for the flywheel side


----------



## Ridge1

Bedford T said:


> Mark, do you feel Stihl knows what they are doing? They designed the saw. They designed the tool. I think your concern is unnecessary. I have used the tool half dozen times and it does not harm the bearing, if you don't do something wrong. I have seen you over think issues and that will get in the way of the joy here. Trust the process and lighten up, lol
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

I think the tool lines up so well that it pulls it through smoothly without pulling the bearing out I thought it would also but it didn't on the 361
If they had something that fit in there up against the bearing to make sure I would use it


----------



## Bedford T

Ridge1 said:


> I think the tool lines up so well that it pulls it through smoothly without pulling the bearing out I thought it would also but it didn't on the 361
> If they had something that fit in there up against the bearing to make sure I would use it


Heat is such a helpful thing working with the saws. A good heat gun makes it easy, well easier. I tried an oven and did not like it. No reason to heat the whole case. That's why I said I never used the tool except to bust them. The tool for the other side is different 

I never had a seal pucker until the 200t. I unpuckered it quick, Lol. I hear it's almost guaranteed to roll. I will order me a sleeve.


Seals have their own tool
Actually called an installing sleeve 1118 893 4600 on clutch side and press sleeve on Mr. Stubby 1108 893 2405. Neither are expensive at the counter. 

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

Bedford T said:


> Heat is such a helpful thing working with the saws. A good heat gun makes it easy, well easier. I tried an oven and did not like it. No reason to heat the whole case. That's why I said I never used the tool except to bust them. The tool for the other side is different
> 
> I never had a seal pucker until the 200t. I unpuckered it quick, Lol. I hear it's almost guaranteed to roll. I will order me a sleeve.
> 
> 
> Seals have their own tool
> Actually called an installing sleeve 1118 893 4600 on clutch side and press sleeve on Mr. Stubby 1108 893 2405. Neither are expensive at the counter.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


Thanks
Ill check out those tools


Bedford T said:


> Heat is such a helpful thing working with the saws. A good heat gun makes it easy, well easier. I tried an oven and did not like it. No reason to heat the whole case. That's why I said I never used the tool except to bust them. The tool for the other side is different
> 
> I never had a seal pucker until the 200t. I unpuckered it quick, Lol. I hear it's almost guaranteed to roll. I will order me a sleeve.
> 
> 
> Seals have their own tool
> Actually called an installing sleeve 1118 893 4600 on clutch side and press sleeve on Mr. Stubby 1108 893 2405. Neither are expensive at the counter.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


The oven and my grill had work great for the two 660s I got frustrated when the o38 didn't work the first time and started on the o36 and rushed and messed up a seal in the case
that's when I started investigating the tools
Just curious Bedford what do you think about your 440 kit that's the next one I'm looking at


----------



## Bedford T

I love my 440. It was a good kit. Putting the oiler on requires an additional part. Put your worm on and tighten the oiler first time. You will see.

The cylinder ran great, sounded mean. It had a quirky shake to it. When I put the meteor on it that went away. The FarmerTec cylinder kit looked great after use. I am collecting parts to build another so I will reuse it.

The oiler has a little arm on it and it had to be bent slightly sometimes or get a oem or your sprocket will cut through it.

It's powerful, runs, oils good. Weighs less than a 380 or 660 and still a big boy. I think it's an unappreciated saw.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Mark68

I want to run a Meteor cylinder so bad but don't think funds are going to be there. Looks like I'll have to go with Hyway. It's like half the price and haven't seen any bad reports on the Hyway.


----------



## Bedford T

Mark68 said:


> I want to run a Meteor cylinder so bad but don't think funds are going to be there. Looks like I'll have to go with Hyway. It's like half the price and haven't seen any bad reports on the Hyway.


Go to hl website deal of day 99$ meteor kit

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Mark68

I already ordered a Hyway kit.


----------



## Ridge1

Hey guys not knowing that much about cylinders can y'all tell me if I ordered the meteor kit am I going to get x amount of power more or am I just getting quality or if I happen to get a good Farmertec or Highway am I getting something just as good


----------



## Rick Stephens

Ridge1 said:


> Hey guys not knowing that much about cylinders can y'all tell me if I ordered the meteor kit am I going to get x amount of power more or am I just getting quality or if I happen to get a good Farmertec or Highway am I getting something just as good



Stick with your OEM and get it ported if you want power.


----------



## Mark68

Ridge1 said:


> Hey guys not knowing that much about cylinders can y'all tell me if I ordered the meteor kit am I going to get x amount of power more or am I just getting quality or if I happen to get a good Farmertec or Highway am I getting something just as good[/


 Is your saw Stihl or a Chinese copy?


----------



## Ridge1

Mark68 said:


> Is your saw Stihl or a Chinese copy?


I've got one 066 Stihl
2 farmertec 066
1 038 farmertec
1 036 farmertec
1 361 farmertec


----------



## Rick Stephens

A meteor piston is a large step above the Farmertech cylinders in quality. I have no clue if out of the box they will produce more power, but taking either the Meteor, or the next step down, a Hyway, or even the Farmertech, and porting cylinder, piston and muffler can lead to pretty big power increase if done well. I would not replace any of your chinese piston/cylinders just cause you felt like it. Not enough gain in power to justify that. Run em like you stole em. Biggest problem I have had with Farmertech cylinder wear is the crappy farmertech air filter fit letting fines into the intake. Keep that clean and well fit and they should serve well. I replaced the MS361 FT filter with a Hyway one and it works LOTS better.


----------



## Bedford T

Ridge1 said:


> Hey guys not knowing that much about cylinders can y'all tell me if I ordered the meteor kit am I going to get x amount of power more or am I just getting quality or if I happen to get a good Farmertec or Highway am I getting something just as good


If you think having an OEM is worth having then a meteor is the only aftermarket that is as good. A hyway is a good cylinder, but not good as a oem.

The tolerances are excat and will produce all the power it is designed to give. For instance a meteor would be the wrong cylinder to delete the gasket.

I have used all three and more and I am very happy with the power and the reliability I know I can count on . If you got it 40$ is not much to get there. And the kits need to be upgraded to be all that.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ridge1

Thanks for the info 
I cut some firewood yesterday with the ms380 I put together a couple of weeks ago after modifying the filter with a gasket it ran really well but I noticed after it was sitting it started leaking fuel and then I noticed I evidently had a bad vent is there anything that I can do to repair the vent or do I need to get another one with the filter off I just watched as the carburetor filled up with fuel


----------



## Bedford T

Ridge1 said:


> Thanks for the info
> I cut some firewood yesterday with the ms380 I put together a couple of weeks ago after modifying the filter with a gasket it ran really well but I noticed after it was sitting it started leaking fuel and then I noticed I evidently had a bad vent is there anything that I can do to repair the vent or do I need to get another one with the filter off I just watched as the carburetor filled up with fuel


If the filter is not flush it will leak fuel. The filter is the Achilles heel of the saw.

Replace the vent.

You not posting in the 380 thread limits what others can learn.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Stihl 041S

Bedford T said:


> Heat is such a helpful thing working with the saws. A good heat gun makes it easy, well easier. I tried an oven and did not like it. No reason to heat the whole case. That's why I said I never used the tool except to bust them. The tool for the other side is different
> 
> I never had a seal pucker until the 200t. I unpuckered it quick, Lol. I hear it's almost guaranteed to roll. I will order me a sleeve.
> 
> 
> Seals have their own tool
> Actually called an installing sleeve 1118 893 4600 on clutch side and press sleeve on Mr. Stubby 1108 893 2405. Neither are expensive at the counter.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


However ....if you don’t heat enough of the bearing area the hole can get smaller.......just saying.


----------



## Bedford T

Stihl 041S said:


> However ....if you don’t heat enough of the bearing area the hole can get smaller.......just saying.


Well bless your heart. I am not sure what you mean. Of course it has to be heated thoroughly, just saying. 

Did I neglect to say use a temp gun to check area temp? Thank you 

The hole will now not get smaller lol

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Stihl 041S

Bedford T said:


> Well bless your heart. I am not sure what you mean. Of course it has to be heated thoroughly, just saying.
> 
> Did I neglect to say use a temp gun to check area temp? Thank you
> 
> The hole will now not get smaller lol
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


If you take a disc with a hole in it and just heat the center......the metal expands. If it can’t go out and the outside metal is strong enough the metal expands inward.

I was just trying to help to let folks know......heat the thing.

We do bearings it takes 2 people to pick up.

We heat the part enough to expand the center


----------



## Bedford T

Stihl 041S said:


> If you take a disc with a hole in it and just heat the center......the metal expands. If it can’t go out and the outside metal is strong enough the metal expands inward.
> 
> I was just trying to help to let folks know......heat the thing.
> 
> We do bearings it takes 2 people to pick up.
> 
> We heat the part enough to expand the center



Ok, we heat the magnesium case then drop the bearing in, does that help

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Stihl 041S

Bedford T said:


> Ok, we heat the magnesium case then drop the bearing in, does that help
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Yeah. W used to use the Heat crayons. Folks would put it where the bearing was going to go and heat it with a torch. 
CRAYON TURNED COLOR!!!! 
Well that surface was hot but the mass around it held it in. 
They thought it just needed a little help with a press. 
Things broke. 
Heated enough and they drop right in. Absolutely. 

The horror story is heating up the center of an impeller and trying to press the shaft out wit. A 100 ton press. 
That’s when the whole thing has to be hot or it locks tighter. 
Then you Gaul it. And it gets ugly.


----------



## Bedford T

I knew we were talking about different things, totally different things. That is why I showed you. 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Stihl 041S

Yes. That’s the area to heat.
I’ve seen strange things when folks do things for the first time.
And I got to fix them.
Ever cut out a 1 1/2” rap broken in a plate 2” down?

I never figured how he broke it but I cut it out.


----------



## Bedford T

That's why I make videos. So no one is doing it for the first time.




Stihl 041S said:


> I’ve seen strange things when folks do things for the first time.





http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Stihl 041S

Bedford T said:


> That's why I make videos. So no one is doing it for the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


And I commend you for it. Many thanks


----------



## southbanner

Hi all- I’ve been following this thread and some of the main contributors for some time. I bought some 029 parts from hutzl to repair a few old saws and everything went well- so I decided to try out the 066 kit for milling and large felling. After assembling the kit and running it for about five hours, here are my thoughts.

1) I made myself a threaded puller using taps and drilled bolts similar to the kit one of the members rigged up and was selling. It works like a dream and makes case assembly super easy and fast. 100% recommend going that route vs heat (having done that on 029s).

2) The chain adjuster stripped almost immediately. I made a little brass buffer to tighten up the play- but it was too late. Went OEM after two tanks of fuel.

3) I bought tons of spare parts for many items on the saw. After 5+ tanks of fuel one of the caps kind of failed/cracked and I swapped it out with an extra...no leaks yet from the kit caps.

4) Two different decomp valves had the plastic top pop off, luckily I caught both before any damage. I bought an OEM - just do it like everyone suggests.

5) Most recently starting became hard and the saw wouldn’t idle. I discovered a loose head bolt which turned out to be sheared- probably from vibration. I thought I had extra, but now I’m waiting for a few to come in to reassemble the head. Definitely using a lot of locktight. I’m also going to use a metal head gasket (bought as an extra part) vs the paper is used for the first build. 

6) Another note - one of the only machining flaws I could find was the exhaust port being slightly skewed. Seating the exhaust gasket and muffler firmly took some bending of the muffler metal and torquing if the exhaust bolts.

All in all, milling has been a lot of fun. I’ve milled 500 bd/ft of red oak so far. It’s a powerful machine. As others have indicated, be prepared to tinker as you go. Thanks to all for the knowledge base.


----------



## southbanner

Here are some photos to go with my previous post- I forgot to note that I mounted a small tech to the clamshell. It’s been useful for the intended tuning and keeping track of run time- although vibration sometimes skips between modes. Zip ties failed from vib- switched over to tiny bolts up through the plastic.

Also- running a 42” granberg with the largest .050 bar I could find- a 36” forester with a .050 114? Carlton ripping chain. Seems to be pretty well balanced, although this oak was probably about 20”? max- I have another oak that will probably max it out...will report back.


----------



## Bedford T

southbanner said:


> View attachment 713722
> View attachment 713723
> View attachment 713724
> 
> 
> Here are some photos to go with my previous post- I forgot to note that I mounted a small tech to the clamshell. It’s been useful for the intended tuning and keeping track of run time- although vibration sometimes skips between modes. Zip ties failed from vib- switched over to tiny bolts up through the plastic.
> 
> Also- running a 42” granberg with the largest .050 bar I could find- a 36” forester with a .050 114? Carlton ripping chain. Seems to be pretty well balanced, although this oak was probably about 20”? max- I have another oak that will probably max it out...will report back.


Nice! 

We all need at least a tractor to get the work up to work level.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## southbanner

Ironically- working on getting our old Ford 8N back in running condition to skid logs. So far, pointing logs down a slope seems to work pretty well, although getting down to cut is tiring as people say.


----------



## jcw74801

I'm building my first MS660 kit.
I've got .016 squish WITH the metal gasket.
What are my options for raising squish to around .022?


----------



## William Prophett

jcw74801 said:


> I'm building my first MS660 kit.
> I've got .016 squish WITH the metal gasket.
> What are my options for raising squish to around .022?


Do yourself a favor and check the squish again. Did you check 4 different spots? What are you using to check the squish? The reason that I'm asking, is that if your squish is actually that tight, the fix isn't that simple. Is it the 54mm jug? So, here is the answer if you are getting an accurate measurement. You should (need) to add a little clearance to be safe. You would need to add a paper/cardboard gasket approximately .004 to .008 thou. That would get you in that .020 to .024 thou spot. This isn't an exact science as far as "how much squish do you want". The only exacts are that "you don't want so much that it doesn't run", and "you don't want too little so that the piston smacks into the jug". I'm gonna guess that taking a little off the squish band is beyond your scope (since you are asking the question), and that you haven't put a timing wheel on to check port timing and know which way you "should" go (ie: up on the jug or not). Let's hope that you made a mistake checking it and you have better clearance than you thought. If not, I would make a paper gasket .004 thick and use Threebond 1184 to glue it to the case and then use the metal gasket with 1184 on everything before you tighten it down... .016 is most likely (barely) ok if all other 4 points around the top of the piston are "more" than that, but it is just a tiny bit too tight for me to feel comfortable if it was mine.


----------



## jcw74801

Thanks for the great info. 
Here's some more detail...
Building with as many kit parts as possible. This saw will live an easy life harvesting firewood for myself along with my Husq 359. I'm using the kit 54mm jug and gasket.
Checked squish with .032 solder in four spots at once with a dab of grease, no rings on the piston. Results are repeatable .015 to .016 WITH the metal gasket. I knew it was going to be tight when the piston would not rotate past TDC (with NO gasket and NO solder). I'd rather be conservative on compression and see how long I can get the Farmertec cylinder to live. I can make a degree wheel and check the timing but I'll likely just add paper as you suggested to get a safe squish and carry on with the build.
I have both a metal and a paper Farmertec gasket. Both are the same thickness (.019 if I recall). Any preference as to which would be better since I'll be adding paper to gain thickness?


----------



## William Prophett

jcw74801 said:


> Thanks for the great info.
> Here's some more detail...
> Building with as many kit parts as possible. This saw will live an easy life harvesting firewood for myself along with my Husq 359. I'm using the kit 54mm jug and gasket.
> Checked squish with .032 solder in four spots at once with a dab of grease, no rings on the piston. Results are repeatable .015 to .016 WITH the metal gasket. I knew it was going to be tight when the piston would not rotate past TDC (with NO gasket and NO solder). I'd rather be conservative on compression and see how long I can get the Farmertec cylinder to live. I can make a degree wheel and check the timing but I'll likely just add paper as you suggested to get a safe squish and carry on with the build.
> I have both a metal and a paper Farmertec gasket. Both are the same thickness (.019 if I recall). Any preference as to which would be better since I'll be adding paper to gain thickness?


Find yourself some paper stock that mics out in the .004 to .008 range. Use a pencil to transfer the top of the case profile and bolt hole locations onto the paper. Cut it out and then use (whatever gasket sealer material you like, I use Threebond 1184) and glue the paper to the top of the case. Coat the other side of the paper and the bottom of the metal (or paper gasket that came with the kit) and stick the gasket on that, put on your piston , put sealer on the top of the metal gasket and bottom of the jug and install the jug. I think if you go to Youtube and search Dominant Saw West Hill Saw House make a gasket, he does a video on it. You also can stack pieces togethet to make a thicker one.


----------



## Bedford T

jcw74801 said:


> I'm building my first MS660 kit.
> I've got .016 squish WITH the metal gasket.
> What are my options for raising squish to around .022?


Using multiple gaskets is not something I would do. Can lead to leaks.

1122 029 2306 it is a 1mm paper gasket. The metal gaskets are .5mm 1122 029 2301

A trick to get a better read when you measure is to twist two together like a rope. It needs to be tight like 10-25 turns per inch and you will get a much more accurate read than you are getting with one strand.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## William Prophett

jcw74801 said:


> Thanks for the great info.
> Here's some more detail...
> Building with as many kit parts as possible. This saw will live an easy life harvesting firewood for myself along with my Husq 359. I'm using the kit 54mm jug and gasket.
> Checked squish with .032 solder in four spots at once with a dab of grease, no rings on the piston. Results are repeatable .015 to .016 WITH the metal gasket. I knew it was going to be tight when the piston would not rotate past TDC (with NO gasket and NO solder). I'd rather be conservative on compression and see how long I can get the Farmertec cylinder to live. I can make a degree wheel and check the timing but I'll likely just add paper as you suggested to get a safe squish and carry on with the build.
> I have both a metal and a paper Farmertec gasket. Both are the same thickness (.019 if I recall). Any preference as to which would be better since I'll be adding paper to gain thickness?





Bedford T said:


> Using multiple gaskets is not something I would do. Can lead to leaks.
> 
> 1122 029 2306 it is a 1mm paper gasket. The metal gaskets are .5mm 1122 029 2301
> 
> A trick to get a better read when you measure is to twist two together like a rope. It needs to be tight like 10-25 turns per inch and you will get a much more accurate read than you are getting with one strand.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Using multiple base gaskets to fine tune squish is common amoungst manufacturers in engine building. Shouldn't be a problem. If you don't want to do it (for whatever reason), find some card stock or gasket material that is around .024 thou and you have the optimal squish that he is looking for.


----------



## ammoaddict

jcw74801 said:


> I'm building my first MS660 kit.
> I've got .016 squish WITH the metal gasket.
> What are my options for raising squish to around .022?


Wow, that's the tightest squish I have heard of in one of those. Mine was like .035 with no gasket.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## William Prophett

ammoaddict said:


> Wow, that's the tightest squish I have heard of in one of those. Mine was like .035 with no gasket.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


All my 56mm have been showing up at .022 with the gasket! Hitting tdc without! Very fun to yank on with the advance.... Not.


----------



## TreeJoe

Good trick and advice. my two 660 were around 35. My 200t get its first work out today, all day.



Bedford T said:


> Using multiple gaskets is not something I would do. Can lead to leaks.
> 
> 1122 029 2306 it is a 1mm paper gasket. The metal gaskets are .5mm 1122 029 2301
> 
> A trick to get a better read when you measure is to twist two together like a rope. It needs to be tight like 10-25 turns per inch and you will get a much more accurate read than you are getting with one strand.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## gary courtney

The pto bearing needs to go through .040 because it fits up against the oil pump. When I install the bearing I put an oiler without the piston and bolt on the case and heat the case and bearing falls right into the indention on back of oiler,thus it can't fall through plus it is exactly where it needs to be.


----------



## Rick Stephens

jcw74801 said:


> I'm building my first MS660 kit.
> I've got .016 squish WITH the metal gasket.
> What are my options for raising squish to around .022?



One I did a couple months ago touched at TDC. Measured .013 most of the way around, but had to use carbon paper to mark where it was hitting - WITH gasket. I started out to have piston turned down around the squish, Changed my mind and just used some .035 gasket material and cut my own base gasket. Worked perfectly.


----------



## jcw74801

Wow, these AM cylinders are all over the place for dimensions. The thickness of three layers of printer paper is all I need (in addition to a regular gasket). I'm going to make a slug with my 3D printer and cut the squish band with sand paper and use the metal gasket. At least that's my plan at the moment while I sit here at work thinking about saws


----------



## Rick Stephens

jcw74801 said:


> Wow, these AM cylinders are all over the place for dimensions. The thickness of three layers of printer paper is all I need (in addition to a regular gasket). I'm going to make a slug with my 3D printer and cut the squish band with sand paper and use the metal gasket. At least that's my plan at the moment while I sit here at work thinking about saws



I take you have never tried to file or sand on nikasil before. Ain't happening my friend.


----------



## Bedford T

gary courtney said:


> The pto bearing needs to go through .040 because it fits up against the oil pump. When I install the bearing I put an oiler without the piston and bolt on the case and heat the case and bearing falls right into the indention on back of oiler,thus it can't fall through plus it is exactly where it needs to be.


You are confusing it with the 440. The 660 does not depend on the oiler.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## gary courtney

Bedford T said:


> You are confusing it with the 440. The 660 does not depend on the oiler.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


No sir I am not ! I just finished building 2 oem 660's complete. The bearing goes through the case approx. .040 as I stated. afleetcommand aka. @weimedog video as well as @Mattyo video touch on this. Go to 18:48 in video .


----------



## Slick50

Bedford T said:


> You are confusing it with the 440. The 660 does not depend on the oiler.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


You are incorrect . The bearing does seat up against the oiler indention. Why doe you think they put the recess in there in the first place. @gary courtney is correct! But you can't tell a know it all anything.


----------



## grizz55chev

Slick50 said:


> You are incorrect . The bearing does seat up against the oiler indention. Why doe you think they put the recess in there in the first place. @gary courtney is correct! But you can't tell a know it all anything.


Careful, he’ll put you on ignore!


----------



## Slick50

grizz55chev said:


> Careful, he’ll put you on ignore!


He has got to be the most pompous a-hole I ever encountered on a forum. Never seen him admit he was wrong. Gary was too nice in his response.


----------



## grizz55chev

Slick50 said:


> He has got to be the most pompous a-hole I ever encountered on a forum. Never seen him admit he was wrong. Gary was too nice in his response.


I concur, whole heartedly.


----------



## Bedford T

oh look an HL ad

i have never had the problem you are suffering from or your idols, nor has anyone ever posted about this.

I dont care what they said. I built many kits and think i got all this started. I was speaking directly to the use of the oiler not being important in relation to the bearing ("The pto bearing needs to go through .040 because it fits up against the oil pump"). anyway the bearing comes installed. There is an indent, this is like... let me think of something to find wrong... when there is not a issue, unless they sent a bunch out the door that dont have bearings and seals installed. 

this gets more bizarre by the day.





gary courtney said:


> No sir I am not ! I just finished building 2 oem 660's complete. The bearing goes through the case approx. .040 as I stated.


----------



## gary courtney

Bedford T said:


> or your idols,


You are one condescending person. The way you relate to people is very disturbing. You must be a hoot at family reunions. I watched your video and saw you drop the bearing completely through the case. If you would have had the oil pump as a guide that would not have occurred.


----------



## Bedford T

gary courtney said:


> You are one condescending person. The way you relate to people is very disturbing. You must be a hoot at family reunions.


If defending accurate information is being condensing then I can live with that. Telling a new builder to pay attention to the indent in bearing installation would have been helpful.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## gary courtney

Bedford T said:


> If defending accurate information is being condensing then I can live with that. Telling a new builder to pay attention to the indent in bearing installation would have been helpful.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


with pump installed as a guide would prevent the bearing from falling through as did in your video.


----------



## Slick50

Bedford T said:


> from or your idols


 So if someone quotes you are does as your videos state you become their idol?



Bedford T said:


> bizarre


 The only thing "bizarre" is you Baby Huey !


----------



## Bedford T

gary courtney said:


> with pump installed as a guide would prevent the bearing from falling through as did in your video.


I recall no video on 660 bearing installation. Thinking back it has a lip.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## TreeJoe

dude you are bizarre u follow him around like a baby. get a life. you are trying so hard to be a jerk and you are killing it. several of you follow him around and take pot shots. I would say your sole purpse is to live in his shadow.



Slick50 said:


> So if someone quotes you are does as your videos state you become their idol?
> The only thing "bizarre" is you Baby Huey !


----------



## gary courtney

Bedford T said:


> I recall no video on 660 bearing installation. Thinking back it has a lip.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


 12:50 into video. Oil pump installed w/o piston and bolt would have prevented this. Just sayin.


----------



## TreeJoe

u like psting videos why not post the video of him screwing this bearing up. or did you get it mixed up with somebody elses videos. i built 2 660 using his videos as other people have. i did not c that. i need info I can count on.



gary courtney said:


> with pump installed as a guide would prevent the bearing from falling through as did in your video.


----------



## Chainsaw Jim

Is this all happening because of this whole snowflake generation thing? What happened to man who doesn't give a chit and says "............". 

Yes... nothing.


----------



## gary courtney

TreeJoe said:


> u like psting videos why not post the video of him screwing this bearing up. or did you get it mixed up with somebody elses videos. i built 2 660 using his videos as other people have. i did not c that. i need info I can count on.


This was not meant to bash anyone. I saw the video and posted what I did as a help to those who have heated the cases and the bearing not having anything to seat against.


----------



## Slick50

TreeJoe said:


> i built 2 660 using his videos as othe


gary was using and building saws before there was a youtube. Pretty pathetic you have to watch a video to build a saw.


----------



## gary courtney

TreeJoe said:


> i did, i forgot that video. i beat it in to far with that new tool i just got. i thought you meant i knocked it out. you can see in that video there was no lip on that race either. so the lesson is and i say so right on the screen STOP


This is Bedford T's video! So @ Tree Joe Are you saying you are Bedford T! Do you have 2 identities on here?


----------



## TreeJoe

i am in dallas, bedford is sitting beside me. we know each other. he is posting on his phone. i took a pee and he got comfortable.


----------



## Slick50

gary courtney said:


> This is Bedford T's video! So @ Tree Joe Are you saying you are Bedford T! Do you have 2 identities on here?


i did, i forgot that video. i beat it in to far with that new tool i just got. i thought you meant i knocked it out. you can see in that video there was no lip on that race either. so the lesson is and i say so right on the screen STOP YOU JUST MESSED UP fella! LOL! Here is the record of screw up TREE JOE/BedfordT


----------



## Slick50

TreeJoe said:


> i am in dallas, bedford is sitting beside me. we know each other. he is posting on his phone. i took a pee and he got comfortable.


That Is PITIFUL ! Lying sucker!


----------



## Bedford T

Sorry, I wanted to see that video better and I sat down at the computer. I forgot it hinged on who was signed in.

On the video again it says stop. I beat it in to far.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Slick50

TreeJoe said:


> i am in dallas, bedford is sitting beside me. we know each other. he is posting on his phone. i took a pee and he got comfortable.


Then why delete post ?


----------



## Slick50

TreeJoe said:


> he is posting on his phone


No previous post show coming from a phone.


----------



## Bedford T

To slick, he deleted the post. What's big deal. Your blocked. 

I would not want him posting in my account

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## TreeJoe

Slick50 said:


> Then why delete post ?



your still a follower.


----------



## Slick50

TreeJoe said:


> i took a pee and he got comfortable.


----------



## TreeJoe

your in the gutter


----------



## Bedford T

There is a hip doctor here in Dallas that has a new technique and he needed to see me to see if I was healthy enough and fit the other criteria. Joe is letting me sleep on his lummpy couch. I fly back tomorrow afternoon to NC. If all goes well I get a new hip in July and get 10 days in a rehab center here, but no more limp



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Mark68

jcw74801 said:


> I'm building my first MS660 kit.
> I've got .016 squish WITH the metal gasket.
> What are my options for raising squish to around .022?


Have you considered the OEM Stihl .10 gasket? If I wrote that size right. I know they make a thick and a thin gasket.


----------



## grizz55chev

Mark68 said:


> Have you considered the OEM Stihl .10 gasket? If I wrote that size right. I know they make a thick and a thin gasket.


I’m thinking it’s .010” but maybe not.


----------



## Mark68

grizz55chev said:


> I’m thinking it’s .010” but maybe not.


I think you're right. And the other one is .005, I think. I'm rather new to chainsaws so I'm a greenhorn lol.


----------



## Mark68

I finished building my first kit saw last weekend (MS660). I messed up and didn't order upgrade parts for the pill start and the pulley broke on the 3rd pull. No dealer had around me had the pulley in stock so I had to order it. Had to have hand surgery Wednesday so now all I can do is look at my saw and wonder if it'll run or if I screwed something up LOL.


----------



## Mattyo

Bedford T said:


> oh look an HL ad
> 
> i have never had the problem you are suffering from or your *idols*, nor has anyone ever posted about this.
> 
> I dont care what they said. I built many kits and think i got all this started. I was speaking directly to the use of the oiler not being important in relation to the bearing ("The pto bearing needs to go through .040 because it fits up against the oil pump"). anyway the bearing comes installed. There is an indent, this is like... let me think of something to find wrong... when there is not a issue, unless they sent a bunch out the door that dont have bearings and seals installed.
> 
> this gets more bizarre by the day.




#1, if you were referring to me, I don't think anyone idolizes me... in fact I really hope they don't. 

#2, you think you got all this started? really?

#3, HL has been generous with me, and I'm generous with them. simple. is there a problem with that?





TreeJoe said:


> u like psting videos why not post the video of him screwing this bearing up. or did you get it mixed up with somebody elses videos. i built 2 660 using his videos as other people have. i did not c that. i need info I can count on.



is this "him" in here referring to me? just curious. not sure I've screwed up a 660 bearing. i've built a few of the 660's kits for sure but I don't remember messing up a bearing. 


for the record, its my understanding Gary is right, the oiler is used as a positive stop for the pto bearing. 


also for the record, the 440 kit that I got, twice, had a bearing with an inner race that was thicker than oem ...10mm vs 9mm iirc. when I put it all together the eclip wouldn't fit on the crank, and I had a heck of a time figuring out why. but either way, the oiler is indeed a positive stop. 

Bedford, this is your thread, so I won't post in it anymore.


----------



## Corncob

Mattyo said:


> the oiler is used as a positive stop for the pto bearing


As I read all this,that is all he was trying to say. Watched the video and if oiler was on when bearing was placed would be perfectly placed every time.


----------



## Warddc

New to the forum. Have been reading a lot and watching YouTube videos. Ordered a MS660 kit last week. Excited to build this kit saw. How long have they been taking to ship from China. I haven’t received a shipping notice yet. Ordered last week.


----------



## Ridge1

Warddc said:


> New to the forum. Have been reading a lot and watching YouTube videos. Ordered a MS660 kit last week. Excited to build this kit saw. How long have they been taking to ship from China. I haven’t received a shipping notice yet. Ordered last week.


I ordered my kids started back in October the first one came in about 15 days
the second order came closer to 10 days 
the third order around Christmas time took about 20 days just because of all the Black Friday sales
I ordered one of their Sol's on HL Supply that they had a sale on for 199 at Christmas and that one came in about 5 days
I think they did not give me any shipping information for about 7 days and then on the 8th or 9th day they finally started sending me some information after I requested it from them


----------



## Ridge1

Many of the other guys mentioned to go ahead and order some replacement parts the D comps definitely do not hold up


----------



## Warddc

What a coincidence. I just got the email that that saw shipped.


----------



## Kamn

Do they ever offer free shipping?? Looking to get a MS180 saw kit and the shipping is almost the same cost as the saw


----------



## ammoaddict

Kamn said:


> Do they ever offer free shipping?? Looking to get a MS180 saw kit and the shipping is almost the same cost as the saw


That's where they get you. I have never seen free shipping on the saw kits. If they were to be offer it, they would double the price of the kit.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

In the early days they had free shipping on the kits. Then it was just on the 070. If you are wanting to wait until they do it again, it would be a painful wait most likely. Its more POSSIBLE HL could do that. They buy a bunch of stuff at once. 

I am posting the information below late. Just for the record. This is not used in building a kit. this is not used in building a kit. this is not used in building a kit, just to be clear.


----------



## Corncob

The STIHL SERVICE MANUAL maybe not in chinese service maual @Bedford T


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

This Stihl literature shows use the oil pump as a stop also. The main thing is to have proper clearance when the bearing is installed. Of course if the bearing protrudes out to far and won’t allow the oil pump to seat you’ll have a oil leak at the pump and limited amount at the bar.


----------



## Corncob

Nothing wrong with being wrong ! It is when you cannot admit it! I could see where pressing a bearing in carelessly could damage case. I personally never press a bearing in cold. I have seen to many that left minute shavings which in turn could cause a spun bearing. My question is why wouldn't you want a stop for the ball bearing if you could use one? When I drop a bearing in I do not even think about it going too far or not far enough! I would imagine the engineers that the chinese copied off of are smart enough to have figured this out! I remember BedfordT saying that a few post back when someone questioned a tool I recall!


----------



## Corncob

Bedford T said:


> Mark, do you feel Stihl knows what they are doing? They designed the saw. They designed the tool. I think your concern is unnecessary


In case you forgot.


----------



## Mark68

I'm new to kit saws and I don't agree with his abrasiveness, but his videos did help out building my MS660. He also gave a link for a site that has very good prices on carbs. I must thank him for that.


----------



## Slick50

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> This Stihl literature shows use the oil pump as a stop also. The main thing is to have proper clearance when the bearing is installed. Of course if the bearing protrudes out to far and won’t allow the oil pump to seat you’ll have a oil leak at the pump and limited amount at the bar.


As Augustus McCrae told P on Lonesome Dove !" _You are in over your head P *! OR T !*_


----------



## Warddc

The saw arrived. took two weeks. Quality looks pretty darned good. checked out the crank, piston and cylinder real well.


----------



## Ridge1

I've assembled two of the 660 kit so far one came from hustle the other one came from HL supply it was also a farmer tech both kids had everything I needed except for both of them had defective break Springs
I took the time and washed the casings the bearings cleaned out all the flashing before I started the assembly process
I watched bedford's videos 
matts videos 
and weimdogs videos
And all the other information from the guys on this site will help you through any issues


----------



## Warddc

Ridge1 said:


> I've assembled two of the 660 kit so far one came from hustle the other one came from HL supply it was also a farmer tech both kids had everything I needed except for both of them had defective break Springs
> I took the time and washed the casings the bearings cleaned out all the flashing before I started the assembly process
> I watched bedford's videos
> matts videos
> and weimdogs videos
> And all the other information from the guys on this site will help you through any issues



yes, i've watched all their videos. good stuff. my brake spring looks good as well as the other areas that people frequently have said were questionable. may still need an OEM choke switch shaft.


----------



## Mark68

Warddc said:


> The saw arrived. took two weeks. Quality looks pretty darned good. checked out the crank, piston and cylinder real well.


I highly recommend you upgrade the pull starter. I learned that the hard way. The Chinese decomp valve is junk also. I also went with a Walbro carb and my saw startedstarted, ran and idled good with just the Stihl setup settings. (Well, after I fixed the shattered starter LOL). I also went with a Hyway piston/cylinder too.


----------



## Slick50

Bedford T said:


> your idols





Ridge1 said:


> I watched bedford's videos
> matts videos
> and weimdogs videos


 Be careful ! According to ole' T they will become your idols !


----------



## deereguy

Anyone have a recommendation on an alternate source for the rubber manifold (block to carb) for the 660.. I Was at Madsen's today picking up parts and checked the price for the manifold which was $49.00. A bid steep for me. Also, I have some used ones laying around which aren't too bad. Although, would like to use new. I recall from, some prior feedback, this post, that their wasn't any good alternatives. Just thought I would check to see if that was still the case. deereguy


----------



## Ridge1

You can get it online actually a lot of them come with a filter spark plug fuel filter the one that I got I did not need the manifold but it seemed quality enough for 10 bucks


----------



## Mark68

deereguy said:


> Anyone have a recommendation on an alternate source for the rubber manifold (block to carb) for the 660.. I Was at Madsen's today picking up parts and checked the price for the manifold which was $49.00. A bid steep for me. Also, I have some used ones laying around which aren't too bad. Although, would like to use new. I recall from, some prior feedback, this post, that their wasn't any good alternatives. Just thought I would check to see if that was still the case. deereguy[





deereguy said:


> Anyone have a recommendation on an alternate source for the rubber manifold (block to carb) for the 660.. I Was at Madsen's today picking up parts and checked the price for the manifold which was $49.00. A bid steep for me. Also, I have some used ones laying around which aren't too bad. Although, would like to use new. I recall from, some prior feedback, this post, that their wasn't any good alternatives. Just thought I would check to see if that was still the case. deereguy


I got a Hyway brand and seems to be real good quality. $6.95 direct from Hyway but shipping takes a couple weeks. Or you can get from HL Supply in just a few days, but cost about $14. Not sure on shipping costs because I ordered some pill starter parts with it.


----------



## Warddc

Got my case together and cylinder on. My squish with a gasket and 1184 is at 0.026". The only problem I've had so far is that oiler won't spin freely by hand. It gets to a point and stops. I need to take it apart and see where it's hanging up.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

If your oiler spins fine with your finger before you put the worm gear on try this. 
Loosen the oil pump and put the gear in place then tighten the pump, it helps center it just a little. 
If not I would get a worm. 
I started replacing the worm anyway just because I had a couple the wire would get loose and spin on the plastic.


----------



## Warddc

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> If your oiler spins fine with your finger before you put the worm gear on try this.
> Loosen the oil pump and put the gear in place then tighten the pump, it helps center it just a little.
> If not I would get a worm.
> I started replacing the worm anyway just because I had a couple the wire would get loose and spin on the plastic.



The oiler shaft does not spin all the way around with just a finger before installation. It stops rotating when the pump shaft moves full left at the peak of the little cam.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

That’s it then. I had one oil pump I ordered along with a blue saw that worked for about 15 min. But I have some that are still working for months. I doubt they’ll ask for it back but you could take it apart and look. Could have some casting flash or shaving in it. These two quit working pretty quick


----------



## Lewie

Hi there, this is my first build of a chainsaw. Been watching a lot of 660 builds on YouTube to get this thing together. I have run into a problem and I think I need to tap out the holes for the oiler bolts. These holes are drilled out but look like they were never tapped. I found a pack of 6 screws of 4mm x 12mm long that I think is supposed to be used for the 2 bolts. People online say they wish they could make these bigger bolts, but im just curious if this has happened to anyone and what size I should tap these to. I havent done anything yet and this is how it came to me from hlsupply. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Warddc

i just finished my 660 build up. My holes were tapped. I actually didnt find any quality issues with my 660. the only small thing I had was that the oiler needed a little polishing where the shaft and adjustment cam meet. Also a little grease was needed. Other than that, all the usual issues people point out were not there.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

I would go with the 4mm if I could. Going to 5mm is your last chance since that’s about as big as you can go. 
Chase the hole with a #30 drill bit to the correct depth then tap to 4mm 0.70.


----------



## Warddc

Here is my 660 build and the joncutter I got as well. Only updates I made were a WJ-76 Walbro carb and Stihl trigger and switch shaft to get fast idle to work.


----------



## dmitriy

Quick question:
Anyone run into a problem where the kill switch doesn't shut the saw off? (metered it and it seems the the 2 leads coming off the coil always have continuity - new coil?)


----------



## Mark68

Anyone ever find car parts grown inside a tree? Found the rotor button from a car distributor in the middle of a tree I was milling.


----------



## ammoaddict

Warddc said:


> i just finished my 660 build up. My holes were tapped. I actually didnt find any quality issues with my 660. the only small thing I had was that the oiler needed a little polishing where the shaft and adjustment cam meet. Also a little grease was needed. Other than that, all the usual issues people point out were not there.


Did the fast idle work on your kit?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Warddc

ammoaddict said:


> Did the fast idle work on your kit?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



No. I bought the OEM switch and trigger.


----------



## ammoaddict

Warddc said:


> No. I bought the OEM switch and trigger.


Thanks. I was hoping they had that problem resolved. I was thinking about getting another one. How was your squish?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Warddc

ammoaddict said:


> Thanks. I was hoping they had that problem resolved. I was thinking about getting another one. How was your squish?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



0.023" with gasket. I've built 2 660's recently. only parts i replaced with OEM were decomp, oil cap, switch and trigger.


----------



## ammoaddict

Warddc said:


> 0.023" with gasket. I've built 2 660's recently. only parts i replaced with OEM were decomp, oil cap, switch and trigger.


Well, at least they got the cylinders better. Mine was like .065 with gasket. I was aggravated with all the problems I had with mine so I put it away for a while. Decided to get it out the other day and put fuel in it and it cranked up after about 8 pulls and ran good. I cut off a stump with it and it did great. I buried the 25" bar in another tree noodling cut. It ran strong. I put a hyway cylinder and popup piston in it. I looked at it the next day and fuel had leaked all over the handle. Looks like it's coming from the elbow in the tank. So, another problem. Anyway I thought about building another one and was wondering what problems they had fixed. Is yours the orange covers or blue? Did you have to shim your chain tensioner? Thanks

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Warddc

Warddc said:


> 0.023" with gasket.





ammoaddict said:


> Well, at least they got the cylinders better. Mine was like .065 with gasket. I was aggravated with all the problems I had with mine so I put it away for a while. Decided to get it out the other day and put fuel in it and it cranked up after about 8 pulls and ran good. I cut off a stump with it and it did great. I buried the 25" bar in another tree noodling cut. It ran strong. I put a hyway cylinder and popup piston in it. I looked at it the next day and fuel had leaked all over the handle. Looks like it's coming from the elbow in the tank. So, another problem. Anyway I thought about building another one and was wondering what problems they had fixed. Is yours the orange covers or blue? Did you have to shim your chain tensioner? Thanks
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


mine are orange. Chain tensioner worked fine without shimming


----------



## Bedford T

Glad your feeling better. It is good therapy to get out and cut some.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Brian Thacker

I meant to put this in the MAC area. Sorry. But thank you.

I have not had the MS660 out in about a month. That saw has so many hours on it, it is not funny. It was on loan to a tree service for a few months. I cut wood for my house and shop and a couple neighbors. I also cut wood for the Greene County Firewood Ministry every weekend August thru April. Very few weekends pass without it being used during this season or me out cutting wood for myself or neighbors. I virtually never give it any care. It rolls around in the back of my truck or side X side. I have went thru many chains with it. It never fails to start, never fails to cut. I dropped it about 20 feet out of a tree once. I have really gave this saw a hard life and it has been great. It has all Farmer Tech compoints. I know many of you do not elect to use several components that come in the kits, but mine is all Farmer Tech. Bearings and all without any failures. Even a big bore kit.

I had it with me today, but did not use it. A rare occasion.

Now watch me jinks myself...HaHaHa

Brian


----------



## Mark68

ammoaddict said:


> Well, at least they got the cylinders better. Mine was like .065 with gasket. I was aggravated with all the problems I had with mine so I put it away for a while. Decided to get it out the other day and put fuel in it and it cranked up after about 8 pulls and ran good. I cut off a stump with it and it did great. I buried the 25" bar in another tree noodling cut. It ran strong. I put a hyway cylinder and popup piston in it. I looked at it the next day and fuel had leaked all over the handle. Looks like it's coming from the elbow in the tank. So, another problem. Anyway I thought about building another one and was wondering what problems they had fixed. Is yours the orange covers or blue? Did you have to shim your chain tensioner? Thanks
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


I had the same problem with gas leaking from around the elbow. I've seen others talk about this problem and recommended getting and oem elbow, but it's around $12 I think. I took mine out and saw it had flashing on the sides. I used a hobby knife and sandpaper to smooth it out and haven't anymore leaks after about 5 gallons of gas through the saw.


----------



## BlamJam

I've been assembling my first MS660 and measured squish to be 0.010", that's with the 0.017" gasket (but no Hylomar)!
I noticed several pages back that someone had 0.007, so mine isn't the worst. 
What is the 'ideal' solution in this case? To remove material from the squish band?

I don't have access to any metal mills, so the only other realistic solution would be to make a 0.8mm/0.031" gasket up myself to replace it and gain 0.014" to get ~ 0.024" squish.

What are the potential issues with this, in laymans terms, regarding ports/timing?
(Cylinder photo attached - is it worth the bother to do the piston+sandpaper+drill idea to sand the squish band?)


----------



## Bedford T

BlamJam said:


> I've been assembling my first MS660 and measured squish to be 0.010", that's with the 0.017" gasket (but no Hylomar)!
> I noticed several pages back that someone had 0.007, so mine isn't the worst.
> What is the 'ideal' solution in this case? To remove material from the squish band?
> 
> I don't have access to any metal mills, so the only other realistic solution would be to make a 0.8mm/0.031" gasket up myself to replace it and gain 0.014" to get ~ 0.024" squish.
> 
> What are the potential issues with this, in laymans terms, regarding ports/timing?
> (Cylinder photo attached - is it worth the bother to do the piston+sandpaper+drill idea to sand the squish band?)


Hylomar is not suitable for the cylinder, the case yes, use something like dirko if needed. I think your calipers are off.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## BlamJam

Thanks Bedford,
I'm confident enough with the readings from my calipers being true. Checked, benchmarked, remeasured, 2nd calipers. 
It's just a lot of squish.
Other suggestions?


----------



## Bedford T

BlamJam said:


> I've been assembling my first MS660 and measured squish to be 0.010", that's with the 0.017" gasket (but no Hylomar)!)



Well something's wrong the gasket is not .017 trust me.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## BlamJam

Yeah, you're right. I took it out and measured it properly. 0.5mm/0.019"


----------



## Brian Thacker

That's not bad squish at all.

Brian


----------



## BlamJam

No! Haha, the squish is still 0.010", and the gasket is 0.5mm/0.019"! 

Piston hits cylinder head without the gasket.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Today I had to replace the Hlhic carb on one of my 660’s. 
The inlet needle wouldn’t hold any pressure and would flood the engine. Tried a new needle and it still acted up. That carb is about a year old. 
So I put a walbro WJ-76 on it. 
It idles and runs way better with this carb anyway. Still running the FT piston and cylinder on this one.


----------



## ammoaddict

Mark68 said:


> I had the same problem with gas leaking from around the elbow. I've seen others talk about this problem and recommended getting and oem elbow, but it's around $12 I think. I took mine out and saw it had flashing on the sides. I used a hobby knife and sandpaper to smooth it out and haven't anymore leaks after about 5 gallons of gas through the saw.


I put the new line from elbow to carb and it's still leaking, so I guess next time I get a chance I will pull the carb and take the elbow out and check it. I thought about putting motoseal around where the line goes into the tank and around the elbow but I'm not sure if that is a good idea or not.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

FarmerTec elbow is wrong elbow. It was changed by stihl to prevent the leaks.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> FarmerTec elbow is wrong elbow. It was changed by stihl to prevent the leaks.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Wrong size or what?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

Mark68 said:


> I had the same problem with gas leaking from around the elbow. I've seen others talk about this problem and recommended getting and oem elbow, but it's around $12 I think. I took mine out and saw it had flashing on the sides. I used a hobby knife and sandpaper to smooth it out and haven't anymore leaks after about 5 gallons of gas through the saw.


I took mine out today and it had flashing on it as well. I filed it smooth with a small file. It didn't seem to fit very tight so I put a small bead of motoseal around it. Hopefully it won't leak.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> Wrong size or what?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Different shape. I have photos buried in here.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> Different shape. I have photos buried in here.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I have read this entire thread, it seems like I vaguely remember something about the elbow, but can't remember the details. Hopefully the sealant will work on mine.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Mark68

ammoaddict said:


> I have read this entire thread, it seems like I vaguely remember something about the elbow, but can't remember the details. Hopefully the sealant will work on mine.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Could be a quality issue. Mine has been setting for a couple weeks with gas in it and still no leak. Don't know if the sealant will hold up to the gas. You may have to change out your elbow.


----------



## ammoaddict

Mark68 said:


> Could be a quality issue. Mine has been setting for a couple weeks with gas in it and still no leak. Don't know if the sealant will hold up to the gas. You may have to change out your elbow.


Motoseal is gasoline resistant. Its actually a gasket maker made for 2 stroke crankcases and carbs. I will check it today after work and find out for sure if it worked.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

No leaks. I was so aggravated at this saw because of all the problems it had, but now that I have gotten them fixed, I really like it. The fast idle still doesn't work, but I can live with that.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> No leaks. I was so aggravated at this saw because of all the problems it had, but now that I have gotten them fixed, I really like it. The fast idle still doesn't work, but I can live with that.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


I hate to hear people have trouble with something they built. I published enough information to prevent problems. My saws are like real ones. The trigger shape on a Stihl is slightly different and changing out those two parts gives the fast idle back. I have enjoyed the saws without compromise. Been too hot for me to use any of them. And the gas I use will last a couple years I use the AV 100.

They were good investments

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Mark68

ammoaddict said:


> No leaks. I was so aggravated at this saw because of all the problems it had, but now that I have gotten them fixed, I really like it. The fast idle still doesn't work, but I can live with that.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


I built my 660 for milling so I went with a Hyway big bore kit and Walbro WJ-76. I broke the pull start first start attempt so went with Hyway parts there too. Other than the broken plastic pill start and having to smooth out the fuel line elbow mine has been great. My longest bar is a 62" Forrester and has cut slabs just over 50" across . I love it! And for about $500 with a 28" bar I'm very happy LOL!


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> I hate to hear people have trouble with something they built. I published enough information to prevent problems. My saws are like real ones. The trigger shape on a Stihl is slightly different and changing out those two parts gives the fast idle back. I have enjoyed the saws without compromise. Been too hot for me to use any of them. And the gas I use will last a couple years I use the AV 100.
> 
> They were good investments
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I'm with you on the heat. I can't take this heat and humidity like we've had lately. I'm ready for fall weather.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

Mark68 said:


> I built my 660 for milling so I went with a Hyway big bore kit and Walbro WJ-76. I broke the pull start first start attempt so went with Hyway parts there too. Other than the broken plastic pill start and having to smooth out the fuel line elbow mine has been great. My longest bar is a 62" Forrester and has cut slabs just over 50" across . I love it! And for about $500 with a 28" bar I'm very happy LOL!


Does your hyway big bore kit have the pop-up piston? I have a hyway cylinder and popup but it's not the big bore. I'm thinking seriously about building another one. I may go big bore if I do.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Mark68

ammoaddict said:


> Does your hyway big bore kit have the pop-up piston? I have a hyway cylinder and popup but it's not the big bore. I'm thinking seriously about building another one. I may go big bore if I do.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


My big bore is the flattop. I wasn't sure if the crankshaft rod bearing would hold up to the compression of big bore pop-up. I could only get my squish down to 0.26 but it still has strong compression. I have thought about the pop-up but it's milled through hickory, oak, and ash with no problem so I'm happy like it is. I'd rather have more dependability than a little extra power. Now if I get so I can build another 660 I'll try a big bore pop-up. I also went with an OEM decompression valve. Read too many bad things about the FT. And after seeing the FT in my kit I threw it in the trash LOL.


----------



## Mark68

Mark68 said:


> My big bore is the flattop. I wasn't sure if the crankshaft rod bearing would hold up to the compression of big bore pop-up. I could only get my squish down to 0.26 but it still has strong compression. I have thought about the pop-up but it's milled through hickory, oak, and ash with no problem so I'm happy like it is. I'd rather have more dependability than a little extra power. Now if I get so I can build another 660 I'll try a big bore pop-up. I also went with an OEM decompression valve. Read too many bad things about the FT. And after seeing the FT in my kit I threw it in the trash LOL.


0.026 on squish lol


----------



## ammoaddict

Mark68 said:


> My big bore is the flattop. I wasn't sure if the crankshaft rod bearing would hold up to the compression of big bore pop-up. I could only get my squish down to 0.26 but it still has strong compression. I have thought about the pop-up but it's milled through hickory, oak, and ash with no problem so I'm happy like it is. I'd rather have more dependability than a little extra power. Now if I get so I can build another 660 I'll try a big bore pop-up. I also went with an OEM decompression valve. Read too many bad things about the FT. And after seeing the FT in my kit I threw it in the trash LOL.


My decomp flew apart, luckily it didn't start and get sucked into the cylinder. I put an OEM Husqvarna one in mine. Did you try the farmertec cylinder first or just go with the hyway. I was wondering how they compared in power. My farmertec had like 145 psi. I don't know how much the hyway popup has but it's alt more. I was going to check it but it was so hard to pull over I was afraid it would break the Chinese starter. I would like to build another but I surely don't need it, don't have time for it and really can't afford it either. I just like messing with saws and guns.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Mark68

ammoaddict said:


> My decomp flew apart, luckily it didn't start and get sucked into the cylinder. I put an OEM Husqvarna one in mine. Did you try the farmertec cylinder first or just go with the hyway. I was wondering how they compared in power. My farmertec had like 145 psi. I don't know how much the hyway popup has but it's alt more. I was going to check it but it was so hard to pull over I was afraid it would break the Chinese starter. I would like to build another but I surely don't need it, don't have time for it and really can't afford it either. I just like messing with saws and guns.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


I never mounted the FT cylinder. I got a deal on 2 Hyway kits, one std bore w/pop-up and a big bore flattop. $80 for both so I jumped on them. I don't know what the psi is but I have to use the decompression to start it. I've got arthritis in my hands so I put a D-ring handle on it when I rebut the pull start. I still have to use a glove to pull it though or it jerks out of my hand. You're very lucky your decompression valve didn't mess up your cylinder. I've read several that had it happen. I would suggest you get the parts from Hyway to rebuild your pull start. I wish I had changed mine out when I was building the saw. This was my first time building one so I watched a lot of videos and read a lot of post too. Bedford's videos helped me a lot too. And I know what you mean about money being tight!


----------



## ammoaddict

Mark68 said:


> I never mounted the FT cylinder. I got a deal on 2 Hyway kits, one std bore w/pop-up and a big bore flattop. $80 for both so I jumped on them. I don't know what the psi is but I have to use the decompression to start it. I've got arthritis in my hands so I put a D-ring handle on it when I rebut the pull start. I still have to use a glove to pull it though or it jerks out of my hand. You're very lucky your decompression valve didn't mess up your cylinder. I've read several that had it happen. I would suggest you get the parts from Hyway to rebuild your pull start. I wish I had changed mine out when I was building the saw. This was my first time building one so I watched a lot of videos and read a lot of post too. Bedford's videos helped me a lot too. And I know what you mean about money being tight!


Yes lucky on the decomp. The black button blew off while starting it, it didn't start and the stem didn't fall into the cylinder. Did you just replace the starter pulley and pawls or all of it?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Mark68

ammoaddict said:


> Yes lucky on the decomp. The black button blew off while starting it, it didn't start and the stem didn't fall into the cylinder. Did you just replace the starter pulley and pawls or all of it?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


I replaced all of it. I also ordered a cover from direct from Hyway but I haven't had any problems with the pull start since I rebuilt it. I keep the cover with me when I go out to mill just in case I break it again. I figured it was worth it just to prevent down time. I took my time turning the saw up too. Probably would have been fine after the break in but I just wanted to be cautious. I've been running it at 12.5k and pulls hard. I also run my mix at 40:1 but several recommended 32:1 for milling.


----------



## ammoaddict

Mark68 said:


> I replaced all of it. I also ordered a cover from direct from Hyway but I haven't had any problems with the pull start since I rebuilt it. I keep the cover with me when I go out to mill just in case I break it again. I figured it was worth it just to prevent down time. I took my time turning the saw up too. Probably would have been fine after the break in but I just wanted to be cautious. I've been running it at 12.5k and pulls hard. I also run my mix at 40:1 but several recommended 32:1 for milling.


I want to try some milling. I have read some about it. I have read people using from 25:1 thru 50:1. I run 45:1 in all my 2 strokes, personally I can't see why a saw would need so much more oil for milling, but there again I have never done it.
Speaking of oil , do you use an auxiliary oiler on your mill? 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Mark68

ammoaddict said:


> I want to try some milling. I have read some about it. I have read people using from 25:1 thru 50:1. I run 45:1 in all my 2 strokes, personally I can't see why a saw would need so much more oil for milling, but there again I have never done it.
> Speaking of oil , do you use an auxiliary oiler on your mill?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


I'm going to try Amsoil next time I buy oil. I have read a lot good things by users. My saw slobbers oil out the muffler over 40:1. The extra oil is because the saw is having to run so hard for so long milling. Set up takes a little while but love milling with my saw. A big bandsaw mill would be much easier but broke people never get the easy way LOL! I used some 3" pvc pipe and caps to make an oiller for the end of my big bar. My 28" and 36" bars have done find with the high volume pump I put on the saw. I've wondered if I would've been as well off with a std oil pump and then use the auxiliary oiler on my short bars too. That high volume pump defiantly keeps my bars oiled LOL!


----------



## ammoaddict

Mark68 said:


> I'm going to try Amsoil next time I buy oil. I have read a lot good things by users. My saw slobbers oil out the muffler over 40:1. The extra oil is because the saw is having to run so hard for so long milling. Set up takes a little while but love milling with my saw. A big bandsaw mill would be much easier but broke people never get the easy way LOL! I used some 3" pvc pipe and caps to make an oiller for the end of my big bar. My 28" and 36" bars have done find with the high volume pump I put on the saw. I've wondered if I would've been as well off with a std oil pump and then use the auxiliary oiler on my short bars too. That high volume pump defiantly keeps my bars oiled LOL!


I'm gonna try amsoil saber when I use up the rest of my Stihl ultra. Only problem is I can't find it locally and ordering online the shipping is as much as the oil. 
Where did you find your high output oil pump? I wouldn't need a bar over 36" because we just don't have that many big trees around here.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Mark68

ammoaddict said:


> I want to try some milling. I have read some about it. I have read people using from 25:1 thru 50:1. I run 45:1 in all my 2 strokes, personally I can't see why a saw would need so much more oil for milling, but there again I have never done it.
> Speaking of oil , do you use an auxiliary oiler on your mill?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk[/QUOT
> if you decide to do some milling I've had good luck with Archer bars and milling chains. That's what one of my 28" is and my 36". My 62" bar is Forrester with a Carlton chain. The Carlton chain mills a lot smoother than the Archer but it also cost a bit more. I cut through 2 nails (looked about the diameter of a 16 penny) with my Carlton and it still milled another 3' down a 50" diameter hickory log to finish the slab and the cut was still smooth. I haven't hit anything with my Archer chains so don't know how they would hold up to it. But the Archer chains do a good job and don't dull out fast. I'm going to get some Carlton chains for my shorter bars but will also keep the Archer chains too. That way I can choose chains depending on the quality of the log and what I'm going to do with the slab. Also the guy I dealt with on the Archer bars and chains was great. Best service I've ever had. You can also but a short chainsaw mill and then order some t-tracks and make whatever length mill you need. Well, if you wanted to mill logs larger than 36" that is.


----------



## Mark68

ammoaddict said:


> I'm gonna try amsoil saber when I use up the rest of my Stihl ultra. Only problem is I can't find it locally and ordering online the shipping is as much as the oil.
> Where did you find your high output oil pump? I wouldn't need a bar over 36" because we just don't have that many big trees around here.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


I found my HV pump on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Pump-G...677266560?hash=item1a77b16e80&redirect=mobile If the link works that's the same place and same pump I got. The big trees I've got so far was blown down and give to me if I clean them up. The big slabs are defiantly worth it to me.


----------



## ammoaddict

Thanks for the info. I ordered a 36" Archer bar and milling chain on eBay from Archer plus. He was very good to deal with as well. Hopefully I will be able to try some milling sometime this fall.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Mark68

ammoaddict said:


> Thanks for the info. I ordered a 36" Archer bar and milling chain on eBay from Archer plus. He was very good to deal with as well. Hopefully I will be able to try some milling sometime this fall.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


You're welcome. Did you use the Farmertec worm gear on your oil pump?


----------



## Kcdub1000

First off thank you every one that has contributed to this thread by bringing facts and experiences with this saw. It has helped change my mind on this saw some what. Keep up the info sharing!


So my .02. 
Its interesting that most are so focused about squish. I would be checking port timing first. So for all the new builders. When you go and drop your jug to tighten squish you are lowering all your ports down. You just changed the timing that those ports open and close. Duration remains un changed as dose blow down. Dont forget to check for Freeport after you drop the jug as well. Think of those ports like the valves in you car or truck engine. The timing of those valves are controlled by the cam. I would be much more focused on actual port timing numbers vs squish. Bottom line, if you drop your jug you should really bring the timing back up.. on all ports to take advantage of what you just did.. my advice. Get a degree wheel and learn how to use it and understand what these adjustments actually do to your engine. I bump the compreshon in my saws but I take notes of port timing before and after. And adjusted to my specs.. 

I would imagine if the squish is that inconsistant on these saws so is the port timing. I would be checking that just like you check squish.. high compreshion is cool and all but your ports offer alot more power gains. 


After reading this thread I'm torn on these kits..seem like to make these saws worth a damn and last you need to replace most of the critical components. I'm seing the benifit of buying a used 066 and just rebuilding that. At least it has some dollar value at the end of the day. I may get a kit to play with any how, just really bummed most parts in the kit seem to be reported crap. I wish the cylinders and piston was decent in the kits. Wouldn't be so bad. Seems hit or miss. I guess for the price that is to be expected.

I must admit it might be fun building a nasty one to out run my buddy's actual 066.  And around and around we go.


----------



## ammoaddict

Kcdub1000 said:


> First off thank you every one that has contributed to this thread by bringing facts and experiences with this saw. It has helped change my mind on this saw some what. Keep up the info sharing!
> 
> 
> So my .02.
> Its interesting that most are so focused about squish. I would be checking port timing first. So for all the new builders. When you go and drop your jug to tighten squish you are lowering all your ports down. You just changed the timing that those ports open and close. Duration remains un changed as dose blow down. Dont forget to check for Freeport after you drop the jug as well. Think of those ports like the valves in you car or truck engine. The timing of those valves are controlled by the cam. I would be much more focused on actual port timing numbers vs squish. Bottom line, if you drop your jug you should really bring the timing back up.. on all ports to take advantage of what you just did.. my advice. Get a degree wheel and learn how to use it and understand what these adjustments actually do to your engine. I bump the compreshon in my saws but I take notes of port timing before and after. And adjusted to my specs..
> 
> I would imagine if the squish is that inconsistant on these saws so is the port timing. I would be checking that just like you check squish.. high compreshion is cool and all but your ports offer alot more power gains.
> 
> 
> After reading this thread I'm torn on these kits..seem like to make these saws worth a damn and last you need to replace most of the critical components. I'm seing the benifit of buying a used 066 and just rebuilding that. At least it has some dollar value at the end of the day. I may get a kit to play with any how, just really bummed most parts in the kit seem to be reported crap. I wish the cylinders and piston was decent in the kits. Wouldn't be so bad. Seems hit or miss. I guess for the price that is to be expected.
> 
> I must admit it might be fun building a nasty one to out run my buddy's actual 066.  And around and around we go.


These kits are definitely worth the money. I have a different out than I originally did. I called my kit a piece of crap at one point because I was aggravated at all the problems I had. I put it away for a while. When I decided to get it back out, I tried to have a different mindset. Most of the problems didn't cost much to fix. The inside of the piston skirt was hitting the counterweights. Dremeled it a little. I had a very large squish but it did run. The chain tensioner stripped out because of too much play between the shaft and the case. Bought another on eBay and shimmed it to fit. Gas cap leaked, eBay again. Tank elbow leaked, motoseal on that. I ended up getting a good deal on a hyway pop-up cylinder kit. Installed that, ran much better. Got very hard to start, I think the carb was loosing it's fuel charge when it would sit a while. Bought after market carb on eBay, cranks fine now. The fast idle didn't work and still doesn't, but it still cranks good. All the parts I replaced were cheap eBay Chinese parts. There are no OEM parts in mine except for a Husqvarna decomp. The saws runs really good now. I like it. If funds allowed, I would build another one and put an oem throttle rod and trigger in it and an oem walbro carb. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Rick Stephens

ammoaddict said:


> No leaks. I was so aggravated at this saw because of all the problems it had, but now that I have gotten them fixed, I really like it. The fast idle still doesn't work, but I can live with that.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



I would second the swap in of an OEM choke shaft and trigger. I did that with the one I built and it fixed the funky idle problems entirely. I think it cost me about $17 for the pair of parts. Of course, I'm gettin old enough the brain cells might be off a bit.


----------



## ammoaddict

Rick Stephens said:


> I would second the swap in of an OEM choke shaft and trigger. I did that with the one I built and it fixed the funky idle problems entirely. I think it cost me about $17 for the pair of parts. Of course, I'm gettin old enough the brain cells might be off a bit.


Did you get the parts at a local dealer or order them online? I would pay $17 for the fast idle to work.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Rick Stephens

ammoaddict said:


> Did you get the parts at a local dealer or order them online? I would pay $17 for the fast idle to work.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



I walked into my local dealer and handed him the part numbers. He tolerates my wayward ways.


----------



## ammoaddict

Thanks, the dealers near me are just hardware stores that sell the homeowner stuff. I will see if they will order them for me.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Rick Stephens

ammoaddict said:


> Thanks, the dealers near me are just hardware stores that sell the homeowner stuff. I will see if they will order them for me.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



If you have a problem locally, there are a couple dealers on this forum, like @redbull660


----------



## ammoaddict

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Today I had to replace the Hlhic carb on one of my 660’s.
> The inlet needle wouldn’t hold any pressure and would flood the engine. Tried a new needle and it still acted up. That carb is about a year old.
> So I put a walbro WJ-76 on it.
> It idles and runs way better with this carb anyway. Still running the FT piston and cylinder on this one.


Does it start better too? Does your fast idle work?
I may have to invest in one as well.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

Rick Stephens said:


> If you have a problem locally, there are a couple dealers on this forum, like @redbull660


Thanks for the info

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

Rick Stephens said:


> If you have a problem locally, there are a couple dealers on this forum, like @redbull660


Could it be redbull661?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Rick Stephens

ammoaddict said:


> Does it start better too? Does your fast idle work?
> I may have to invest in one as well.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



I found that with a OEM choke and trigger it starts every time cold or hot in a couple pulls. The high idle being set properly is all the difference in the world.


----------



## Rick Stephens

ammoaddict said:


> Could it be redbull661?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



I was copying from another post of mine that someone else referenced that. I think Harley is also a dealer.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

ammoaddict said:


> Does it start better too? Does your fast idle work?
> I may have to invest in one as well.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



I would say the choke works better. The butterfly has a tighter clearance in the bore. 
Yes my high idle works.


----------



## ammoaddict

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Today I had to replace the Hlhic carb on one of my 660’s.
> The inlet needle wouldn’t hold any pressure and would flood the engine. Tried a new needle and it still acted up. That carb is about a year old.
> So I put a walbro WJ-76 on it.
> It idles and runs way better with this carb anyway. Still running the FT piston and cylinder on this one.


Where did you get your walbro wj-76 ?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

ammoaddict said:


> Where did you get your walbro wj-76 ?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk



I ordered it through work. It Wasn’t bad with discount but normally I think their around $60


----------



## ammoaddict

$56 is cheapest I have found

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Ridge1

Hey guys found one on Mitty Supply it's 41.50 plus the shipping
It listed as a WJ - 76 - 1


----------



## ammoaddict

Ridge1 said:


> Hey guys found one on Mitty Supply it's 41.50 plus the shipping
> It listed as a WJ - 76 - 1


I tried to order one from them, it wouldn't let me add it to my cart. I contacted them and was told that they no longer sell them through their website, only through their eBay store and they are $56.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Ridge1

Thanks for letting me know I was having that same problem when I was trying to add it to the cart


----------



## ammoaddict

Ridge1 said:


> Thanks for letting me know I was having that same problem when I was trying to add it to the cart


https://www.ebay.com/itm/143101591605
Here is the link they sent me.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Rags

Just thought I would mention, HL Supply has the 660 kits on sale for $219.00


----------



## Rags

Hello folks, hope everyone is having a great day.

Just thought I would mention, if it hasn't already been covered.
I found some of the aftermarket fuel caps with O-ring seals leak. What I found that fixed mine was it needed approx. 1/8" of the very top thread (where the O-ring rests) needs to be trimmed off with a razor blade or knife so that the O-ring lays uniformly around the cap.


----------



## Rags

Hello folks, in addition to what I mentioned in the previous post I have a little more info. to share. These experiences & info. are from my purchase of 2 of the G660 Blue Monster preassembled saws so I'm not sure how much of it will directly relate to the kits, I figure there is a good possibility.

I have found that the oil tank vents LEAK really well, almost as if they were designed to...... On the first one I used a long punch & drove it out from the inside, this is the way I HIGHLY RECOMMEND if you are going to try & repair then reinstall the vent as it will result in the least amount of damage. If you drive them INTO the tank the body of the valve is flattened & is a bear to reshape, also GUARANTEEING requirement of sealer upon reinstallation, I use sealer regardless even on new valves. You will have to repair the valve to a certain extent no matter which way you drive it upon removal, just less repair when driving it from the inside. To disassemble the valve you unroll the crimp that hold a washer which retains the spring & ball.
What I have found is;
1. The check ball doesn't seat well. The easiest way to cure this is to GENTLY seat the ball in the valve with a punch, check it after a few taps (with the testing equipment god gave you if you don't have a better way) until you achieve a good seal.
2. The spring in the valve needs to have the end that pushes against the ball reshaped to be a little smaller so the ball CANNOT be pushed back inside the spring. While this can be very tedious, (the spring is made of VERY small gauge wire & easy to loose) if this is not done future clearing/cleaning of the valve with aerosol solvents or compressed air will result in the ball being pushed inside the spring never to seal again unless dissasembled again. I suppose you could install a small washer between the spring & ball but that would increase the tension on the ball as well as possibly bind causing a non functioning valve. 

I removed & repaired the oil vent valve on both of the saws & repaired them, they both work great with NO leaks. On one of the saws I installed a small (slightly larger than diameter of the valve & 1/8" thick) piece of air filter foam to prevent contaminants from fouling the valve, I want to see if this helps or not. I also ordered 2 new vent valves from a local Stihl Dealer for less than anything I found on the net.... When I brought them home I tested them, NEITHER ONE hold a vacuum which would likely result in someone trying to fix a problem with OEM parts only to find they still have a leak. Both of the OEM valves are still in the package waiting for me to dissassemble & diagnose because both Chinese valves which were repaired are 100% leak free for a month now.

One other thing I will mention... I have started applying a SMALL amount of silicone sealer around the oil slit in the chain guide plate (removing any excess inside the slit after installation) to help guarantee 100% of the oil gets to the bar & chain.

Yes I know I am longggggg winded & maybe a little crazy but I hope this helps someone with their saw. I have 2 of the G660 saws & 2 clone 070 saws, all 4 have MULTIPLE upgrades & customizes that would take me days to list.

I'll quit yappin now & hope everyone has a great day.
P.S. Moderators you can tell me to shut up anytime & I will bow out with a smile.


----------



## TheTone

Good work. And definitely a good thing for kit builders to know.


----------



## Bedford T

Rags said:


> Hello folks, in addition to what I mentioned in the previous post I have a little more info. to share. These experiences & info. are from my purchase of 2 of the G660 Blue Monster preassembled saws so I'm not sure how much of it will directly relate to the kits, I figure there is a good possibility.
> 
> I have found that the oil tank vents LEAK really well, almost as if they were designed to...... On the first one I used a long punch & drove it out from the inside, this is the way I HIGHLY RECOMMEND if you are going to try & repair then reinstall the vent as it will result in the least amount of damage. If you drive them INTO the tank the body of the valve is flattened & is a bear to reshape, also GUARANTEEING requirement of sealer upon reinstallation, I use sealer regardless even on new valves. You will have to repair the valve to a certain extent no matter which way you drive it upon removal, just less repair when driving it from the inside. To disassemble the valve you unroll the crimp that hold a washer which retains the spring & ball.
> What I have found is;
> 1. The check ball doesn't seat well. The easiest way to cure this is to GENTLY seat the ball in the valve with a punch, check it after a few taps (with the testing equipment god gave you if you don't have a better way) until you achieve a good seal.
> 2. The spring in the valve needs to have the end that pushes against the ball reshaped to be a little smaller so the ball CANNOT be pushed back inside the spring. While this can be very tedious, (the spring is made of VERY small gauge wire & easy to loose) if this is not done future clearing/cleaning of the valve with aerosol solvents or compressed air will result in the ball being pushed inside the spring never to seal again unless dissasembled again. I suppose you could install a small washer between the spring & ball but that would increase the tension on the ball as well as possibly bind causing a non functioning valve.
> 
> I removed & repaired the oil vent valve on both of the saws & repaired them, they both work great with NO leaks. On one of the saws I installed a small (slightly larger than diameter of the valve & 1/8" thick) piece of air filter foam to prevent contaminants from fouling the valve, I want to see if this helps or not. I also ordered 2 new vent valves from a local Stihl Dealer for less than anything I found on the net.... When I brought them home I tested them, NEITHER ONE hold a vacuum which would likely result in someone trying to fix a problem with OEM parts only to find they still have a leak. Both of the OEM valves are still in the package waiting for me to dissassemble & diagnose because both Chinese valves which were repaired are 100% leak free for a month now.
> 
> One other thing I will mention... I have started applying a SMALL amount of silicone sealer around the oil slit in the chain guide plate (removing any excess inside the slit after installation) to help guarantee 100% of the oil gets to the bar & chain.
> 
> Yes I know I am longggggg winded & maybe a little crazy but I hope this helps someone with their saw. I have 2 of the G660 saws & 2 clone 070 saws, all 4 have MULTIPLE upgrades & customizes that would take me days to list.
> 
> I'll quit yappin now & hope everyone has a great day.
> P.S. Moderators you can tell me to shut up anytime & I will bow out with a smile.


Your vent is suppose to leak. When testing your fuel circuit pressure vac side should leak down slowly. You have a positive and negative test on the fuel tank circuit.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ammoaddict

Bedford T said:


> Your vent is suppose to leak. When testing your fuel circuit pressure vac side should leak down slowly. You have a positive and negative test on the fuel tank circuit.
> 
> 
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


He is talking about the oil tank vent. Not the fuel tank vent.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

ammoaddict said:


> He is talking about the oil tank vent. Not the fuel tank vent.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Big difference. I read it wrong. Earlier he touched on the fuel cap.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Rags

Hello Bedford T hope you are doing well.

I have to ask about your comment in reference to my post. I don't know if you realized I was dealing with the OIL TANK VENT & if you did........

I have watched your video before & just watched it again. You show that the fuel tank SHOULD hold pressure, according to the shop manual P.85 it should be .5 bar (approx. 7-8 PSI) for at least 20 seconds.

I don't know if you misunderstood my post or what but I am not trying to imply the oil tank vent should hold VACUUM. I just want the vent to seal tight enough to hold PRESSURE thus also keeping the oil IN the oil tank instead of letting it leak out of the saw while still letting air in to stop the creation of a vacuum inside the tank. As we know if the vent does not let air into the tank, which would create a vacuum, this would restrict the oil flow.......

If you think I need to change something in my post PLEASE respond with suggestions as to what needs changed so there is less chance of it being misunderstood.


----------



## Bedford T

Rags said:


> Hello Bedford T hope you are doing well.
> 
> I have to ask about your comment in reference to my post. I don't know if you realized I was dealing with the OIL TANK VENT & if you did........
> 
> I have watched your video before & just watched it again. You show that the fuel tank SHOULD hold pressure, according to the shop manual P.85 it should be .5 bar (approx. 7-8 PSI) for at least 20 seconds.
> 
> I don't know if you misunderstood my post or what but I am not trying to imply the oil tank vent should hold VACUUM. I just want the vent to seal tight enough to hold PRESSURE thus also keeping the oil IN the oil tank instead of letting it leak out of the saw while still letting air in to stop the creation of a vacuum inside the tank. As we know if the vent does not let air into the tank, which would create a vacuum, this would restrict the oil flow.......
> 
> If you think I need to change something in my post PLEASE respond with suggestions as to what needs changed so there is less chance of it being misunderstood.


I read your first post on the blue saw and rolled over and looked at the 660 and it landed on the post on the fuel cap as I rolled down I as I just said misread the post on the oil. I had same issue with oil pouring out. I wish I was perfect, just tried to help. To new builders the test can be confusing. 

I am confused on your post on the air filter, that that has me catching my head. They must have mangled the filter

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

If this goes the way the article indicates saw kits are going to be dinosaurs. We think that the shipping is high right now they're looking at four times an increase. If we send a saw several states away inside the US it's around 40 bucks. I know the shipping rates went up some, they have the deals but 4 times is going to be scary high. Chinese can't take their goods back when we return something because they don't have the protection the article describes. So the same will hold true both ways. It will be interesting to see how the shakes out. This has nothing to do with the tariffs.
https://www.freightwaves.com/news/u...n-exit-could-send-global-parcel-rates-soaring

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Rags

Hello Bedford T & folks.

After thinking about my air filter issues, I remember this was likely caused by misalignment from the air filter mount. I had repaired the mount, it was broken when the saw arrived & wanted to run the saw while waiting on the new one.
Still I think the foam gasket will help insure a dust proof seal, the rubber seal on the filters seems fairly stiff to me.


----------



## ktr

Hey, folks - just got my kit today.

My local Stihl dealer is the only one for hours (extremely rural area) and honestly, they're kind of hard to work with. They're an hour away and they want me to jump through about a million hoops to just get these parts - drive over, let them look at the saw, etc. For example, they called my order "suspicious", kinda disrespectful. Yeah, those guys protect those OEM Stihl parts like nuclear launch codes, I guess. Likewise, it's a week+ bare minimum to get this stuff.

Unfortunately, I kinda need to build the kit and get to working. My question is - what happens if I just slap it together as is? What parts am I gonna have to crack the case for? That bottom end seems like it might be difficult to get to in the future - the seal between the crank halves, as well as the crank bearings/main bearings themselves. I see a few updates on the kit, too - brake spring has the pin in it, for example. Is it really worth waiting and buying even if I have to go cut with snow on the ground? I don't mind tearing it down again during the winter all that much.

Am I looking at guaranteed failure if I just build it as is? Thanks, and thanks to all the guys who made those phenomenal youtube videos on guiding me.


----------



## Justsaws

The only reason to split the crankcase is to replace:
1. The crankcase
2. The crank 
3. The bearings, one or both, might as well do both while the case is split
4. The crankcase gasket
5. A serious inspection of any of the previously mentioned parts.

Assemble the kit. Most of the parts that people worry about are easily replaceable after assembly.


----------



## ktr

Justsaws said:


> The only reason to split the crankcase is to replace:
> 1. The crankcase
> 2. The crank
> 3. The bearings, one or both, might as well do both while the case is split
> 4. The crankcase gasket
> 5. A serious inspection of any of the previously mentioned parts.
> 
> Assemble the kit. Most of the parts that people worry about are easily replaceable after assembly.


Thanks. Very much appreciated!


----------



## Bedford T

ktr said:


> Hey, folks - just got my kit today.
> 
> My local Stihl dealer is the only one for hours (extremely rural area) and honestly, they're kind of hard to work with. They're an hour away and they want me to jump through about a million hoops to just get these parts - drive over, let them look at the saw, etc. For example, they called my order "suspicious", kinda disrespectful. Yeah, those guys protect those OEM Stihl parts like nuclear launch codes, I guess. Likewise, it's a week+ bare minimum to get this stuff.
> 
> Unfortunately, I kinda need to build the kit and get to working. My question is - what happens if I just slap it together as is? What parts am I gonna have to crack the case for? That bottom end seems like it might be difficult to get to in the future - the seal between the crank halves, as well as the crank bearings/main bearings themselves. I see a few updates on the kit, too - brake spring has the pin in it, for example. Is it really worth waiting and buying even if I have to go cut with snow on the ground? I don't mind tearing it down again during the winter all that much.
> 
> Am I looking at guaranteed failure if I just build it as is? Thanks, and thanks to all the guys who made those phenomenal youtube videos on guiding me.


The parts you should get, you can order them on eBay. the piston needle bearing, and the piston pin and trim most of the ears away on your circlips. And you will not need to go back in your case.

Coating your case gasket with hylomar blue will increase the life of the gasket into the next century.

There have been reports of the bearing opening on the case being the wrong size. So dry fit those to make sure the bearing is not lose in place. Before going to any expense.

The Stihl dealer is an independent and Stihl will not say crap to them. Don't tell those assholes it's a Chinese saw it's none of their beeswax. You got a broke saw with missing pieces if you need a story.

Good luck

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## fulladirt

Hi all, I'm having problems with my oiler system. I've replaced all of the rubber parts, replaced the oil pump with H.O. Ireland pump, nothing is clogged up including bar oil holes. Plenty of oil comes pouring out when I run the saw without b/c.
But it still seems like after I cut for awhile my b/c is somewhat dry and crusty lookin. Only thing I haven't replaced is the tank vent. 
Does anyone know the Stihl part # for the correct tank vent? 
There seems to be at least 2 different styles available and don't know which to get.


----------



## Bedford T

fulladirt said:


> Hi all, I'm having problems with my oiler system. I've replaced all of the rubber parts, replaced the oil pump with H.O. Ireland pump, nothing is clogged up including bar oil holes. Plenty of oil comes pouring out when I run the saw without b/c.
> But it still seems like after I cut for awhile my b/c is somewhat dry and crusty lookin. Only thing I haven't replaced is the tank vent.
> Does anyone know the Stihl part # for the correct tank vent?
> There seems to be at least 2 different styles available and don't know which to get.



Is the plate sitting flat, in the past that has caused problems. It will prevent the oil from getting on the bar/chain and since it oils without bar that is most likely the problem. That plate must be flat on case.

If the vent was causing problems it would not be pumping oil out.

Valve 1128 640 9100

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ktr

Got my crank in and case halves together. It turns by hand, but it's not loose. It's quite stiff.

Is this okay?


----------



## buttercup

It's going to get run in after some hours, it will work satisfactory - though technically it's not how it should be. 
Don't get me wrong, you'll be happy with it.


----------



## ktr

buttercup said:


> It's going to get run in after some hours, it will work satisfactory - though technically it's not how it should be.
> Don't get me wrong, you'll be happy with it.


Thanks. I figured it would eventually center itself...one way or another.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

ktr said:


> Got my crank in and case halves together. It turns by hand, but it's not loose. It's quite stiff.
> 
> Is this okay?



The stiffness you feel is most likely the resistance of the seals. Did the piston slide right in easy once the rings made it in? 
Also tap the crank ends slightly with a soft hammer to relieve the pressure off the crank bearings.


----------



## ktr

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> The stiffness you feel is most likely the resistance of the seals. Did the piston slide right in easy once the rings made it in?
> Also tap the crank ends slightly with a soft hammer to relieve the pressure off the crank bearings.


Yes, very easily. And now it's all together and not very hard to crank so I guess things kinda worked themselves out while I waited on my T27 driver. 

I am finished but for the dogs. However, I have one part left over, this rubber/metal grommet: 


Where does this go? I can't figure out where I'd have missed it.


----------



## Bedford T

ktr said:


> Yes, very easily. And now it's all together and not very hard to crank so I guess things kinda worked themselves out while I waited on my T27 driver.
> 
> I am finished but for the dogs. However, I have one part left over, this rubber/metal grommet: View attachment 762584
> 
> 
> Where does this go? I can't figure out where I'd have missed it.



They have extra pieces sometimes. It looks like it goes on the tank/handle. It is likely extra.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ktr

Can't get it to pop. Won't even start with ether. 

Any likely culprits? I'm using premix, 40:1, no bar or chain yet. I'm also at 10,000+ feet and I haven't touched the carb settings so it might be that.


----------



## Bedford T

ktr said:


> Can't get it to pop. Won't even start with ether.
> 
> Any likely culprits? I'm using premix, 40:1, no bar or chain yet. I'm also at 10,000+ feet and I haven't touched the carb settings so it might be that.


Did you test it?

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ktr

Nope. No testing tools available out here, unfortunately - probably weeks before they'd get here. I'm just hoping it has compression.


----------



## Bedford T

ktr said:


> Nope. No testing tools available out here, unfortunately - probably weeks before they'd get here. I'm just hoping it has compression.


It is very likely you have a leak. The cylinder being tight is very important. For all the reasons you likely are aware of like not pushing fuel to the chamber. You can check for spark without special tools.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ktr

Any recommended toolkit from Amazon? That usually gets here faster than others.


----------



## Bedford T

ktr said:


> Any recommended toolkit from Amazon? That usually gets here faster than others.


Decide on a budget and spend accordingly. My website has a section on tools and part numbers. Just search Amazon for the tool your looking for. I have never seen a kit outside of stihl. Huztl has the case tool. Stihl has the best air gun and they have an awesome kit with all the flanges and so forth. I bought the cheapest gun knowing I could upgrade. 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ktr

This morning, I took the saw outside, gave it a bit of ether, and followed the starting procedure.

Several times, I got it to run for a second or two. Each time, it died after a few moments. I am at more than 10,000 feet above sea level so I am not terribly surprised by this. I adjusted the carb a bit - both knobs in all the way, then back them out a full turn - and unfortunately, now it won't pop for me again. I pulled the spark plug to try to let it drain - there's no fuel coming out of the exhaust, so I don't know if I flooded it. Still no bar or chain on it. I still won't be able to do the compression test due to the fact that the tools will take weeks to get here. 

Any suggestions for getting it to run for a little longer?


----------



## Bedford T

ktr said:


> This morning, I took the saw outside, gave it a bit of ether, and followed the starting procedure.
> 
> Several times, I got it to run for a second or two. Each time, it died after a few moments. I am at more than 10,000 feet above sea level so I am not terribly surprised by this. I adjusted the carb a bit - both knobs in all the way, then back them out a full turn - and unfortunately, now it won't pop for me again. I pulled the spark plug to try to let it drain - there's no fuel coming out of the exhaust, so I don't know if I flooded it. Still no bar or chain on it. I still won't be able to do the compression test due to the fact that the tools will take weeks to get here.
> 
> Any suggestions for getting it to run for a little longer?


I know the pain you feel. Do you understand running it with a leak even if it's possible can quickly burn your saw up. On the other hand getting it started with a leak can be impossible because of the way the fuel is effected and it's hard to know what it is until you know more.

I am not suggesting you do this but this is most likely thing leaking and it sounds like you're desperate which is understandable.

Remove the cylinder, coat your gasket lightly (or deck and cylinder) with dirko or something like it. Torque screws down let it dry for a good while and try again.

With a leak you can have more than one and you have to find and fix them. I made a special video about this and recommended that everyone buys their tools first then order the saw because of what happens right here like with you. You wind up with a saw that won't start and you are beating yourself up.

Rooting for you

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Check this area on your cylinder. It’s was hitting on mine and was causing the base to leak. I just ground it so it would have clearance. 
If it’s just slightly flooded the plug will be wet.  When it’s dripping out the muffler it’s severely flooded. 

It’s just hard to answer any questions with out more info on test to rule out possible problems. 
If you get it running and it holds a tune then most likely it doesn’t have a leak or a sizable leak to cause a problem. Have you been hit with the snow storm out your way?


----------



## Muzzleblastm38

Any pdf instruction on step by step assembly of the ms660 clone


----------



## Brian Ski

Muzzleblastm38 said:


> Any pdf instruction on step by step assembly of the ms660 clone


I am with you on that. I appreciate all the info here. There are 2 main threads posted on this site one has 160 pages the other has 126 pages. I am through about 40+ pages over a few hours. Most of them are troubleshooting. The I have the case together and forgot the xxxx. Or the engine quit what do I do? There are quite a few videos on youtube, but they don't give a good order. 

I see a lot of different versions. One batch will have trouble with a certain component and then a year later another batch will have a bad part that was decent in the previous batch.

I will "try" to keep a log on the assembly when I put it together. It would be nice to have a sticky at the top easy to find, but locked to keep the troubleshooting out so the thread are not so huge.


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Ski said:


> I am with you on that. I appreciate all the info here. There are 2 main threads posted on this site one has 160 pages the other has 126 pages. I am through about 40+ pages over a few hours. Most of them are troubleshooting. The I have the case together and forgot the xxxx. Or the engine quit what do I do? There are quite a few videos on youtube, but they don't give a good order.
> 
> I see a lot of different versions. One batch will have trouble with a certain component and then a year later another batch will have a bad part that was decent in the previous batch.
> 
> I will "try" to keep a log on the assembly when I put it together. It would be nice to have a sticky at the top easy to find, but locked to keep the troubleshooting out so the thread are not so huge.



The step by step already exists but requires reading the Stihl service manual

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Brian Ski

Bedford T said:


> The step by step already exists but requires reading the Stihl service manual



Thanks you. A little searching found it. Here is the manual for the 660... At least until the link changes. 
https://stihl.partsmartweb.com/Catdata/EMP_IMG/STGSTH/Images/SERVICE/00590018.PDF

It has all the info but not in an assemble order, it is in a repair order. But it does look quite complete.


----------



## Brian Ski

It looks like a lot of builders on here. A couple have me a little stumped right now. A hint as to where this bushing goes??? Not sure where this screw belongs, it was in the bag with the flywheel nut. Thanks


----------



## Brian Ski

Ok, Always right after I post a question... Bushing is left rear of the case on the inside... The screw is still a mystery.


----------



## Muzzleblastm38

plate over chain adjust


----------



## Brian Ski

Muzzleblastm38 said:


> plate over chain adjust



Cool, I am getting there a little at a time. I have to slip the handle off today, again, to get the other bushing mentioned above in place. Over half way I guess. 

Thanks,


----------



## Brian Ski

Ok, I have the saw all put together except for the bar and chain. From what I have read, it is recommended not to run the saw over half throttle without the chain being in wood for the first couple tanks of fuel to break the engine in. Sounds fair. What do you do about setting the high speed needle?? I hate to run it wide open to set it. 

After Farmtec selling these kits for a decade or so, they seem to be decent quality. I upgraded a couple parts during the build. I went OEM with the compression release and the pull cord pulley. I have a friend that uses this style of saw at work and they have broken the pull cord pulleys before and that is OEM ones. I thought for the couple bucks it would be worth it. As far as the compression release after I looked them over The Chinese one may have been fine.


----------



## dswensen

Brian Ski said:


> As far as the compression release after I looked them over The Chinese one may have been fine.



When they get warm, the black button on top comes loose and comes off. This allows the stem to possibly fall into the cylinder and really mess things up. I add this in case new members are reading. This has been well documented in this and other threads in the past.


----------



## Brian Ski

dswensen said:


> When they get warm, the black button on top comes loose and comes off. This allows the stem to possibly fall into the cylinder and really mess things up. I add this in case new members are reading. This has been well documented in this and other threads in the past.


Good to know... For $15 for an OEM I will pitch this chinese one in the trash. 

I tried reading the threads. I read over 40 pages in this thread and over 30 in the other thread. The build tips were getting farther apart.


----------



## dswensen

Brian Ski said:


> Good to know... For $15 for an OEM I will pitch this chinese one in the trash.
> 
> I tried reading the threads. I read over 40 pages in this thread and over 30 in the other thread. The build tips were getting farther apart.



Understood. Some of the threads "unravel" quickly and go off course. That is why some important information bears repeating from time to time.

Also, go easy on the muffler bolts when tightening. I stripped one of mine pretty easily. I can't prove it, but I felt that one of the bolts was a hair too small in diameter, or the hole was a hair too large, which meant it stripped more easily.

Good luck with your build.


----------



## Brian Ski

dswensen said:


> Understood. Some of the threads "unravel" quickly and go off course. That is why some important information bears repeating from time to time.
> 
> Also, go easy on the muffler bolts when tightening. I stripped one of mine pretty easily. I can't prove it, but I felt that one of the bolts was a hair too small in diameter, or the hole was a hair too large, which meant it stripped more easily.
> 
> Good luck with your build.



I picked up a plug for the compression release port in the head. I cut 2 pieces of rubber to cover the carb and muffler port and bolted them back on. I did a vac test and it had a very slow leak. Which to me was acceptable. 10 inches of vac and it dropped close to zero in more than 30 seconds. It could have been over a minute. I wasn't timing it. It could have been in my vac hoses too. 

I am ready to add fuel and give it a try.


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Ski said:


> I picked up a plug for the compression release port in the head. I cut 2 pieces of rubber to cover the carb and muffler port and bolted them back on. I did a vac test and it had a very slow leak. Which to me was acceptable. 10 inches of vac and it dropped close to zero in more than 30 seconds. It could have been over a minute. I wasn't timing it. It could have been in my vac hoses too.
> 
> I am ready to add fuel and give it a try.


Why is the head leak acceptable? There are videos on how to test your saw. A hint...the fuel circuit should have a small vac leak because of the vent. Separately the cylinder should hold tight on both. I find removing the decomp and plugging is best practice. While you have a vac drawn spinning the flywheel back and forth is a good test of the crank seals for leaking. Vac should hold there

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Brian Ski

Bedford T said:


> Why is the head leak acceptable? There are videos on how to test your saw. A hint...the fuel circuit should have a small vac leak because of the vent. Separately the cylinder should hold tight on both. I find removing the decomp and plugging is best practice. While you have a vac drawn spinning the flywheel back and forth is a good test of the crank seals for leaking. Vac should hold there
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


The vacume drop looked about the same as what I saw in the videos. But I did not try turning the flywheel. That sounds like a good idea.


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Ski said:


> The vacume drop looked about the same as what I saw in the videos. But I did not try turning the flywheel. That sounds like a good idea.


Ok just trying to point you in right direction. Two different tests on two different systems. 

To the other new kit builders there are two circuits you test to make sure your saws is assembled correctly. One is the fuel circuit, because of the vent the vacuum side of the pressure test is suppose to leak down. On the cylinder circuit neither test should leak. Moving the flywheel I mentioned is a good way to test the seals. If the vacuum leaks during that test the seals are leaking and in field conditions that is bad.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Brian Ski

Bedford T said:


> Ok just trying to point you in right direction. Two different tests on two different systems.
> 
> To the other new kit builders there are two circuits you test to make sure your saws is assembled correctly. One is the fuel circuit, because of the vent the vacuum side of the pressure test is suppose to leak down. On the cylinder circuit neither test should leak. Moving the flywheel I mentioned is a good way to test the seals. If the vacuum leaks during that test the seals are leaking and in field conditions that is bad.



Are you pulling a vacuum from 2 different areas (ports)? If so what areas? Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

Brian Ski said:


> Are you pulling a vacuum from 2 different areas (ports)? If so what areas? Thanks


I hope this clears up the testing for you. The first part covers the cylinder/case and the second part begins after 6 mins on the fuel. If I recall correctly I covered it all in this video.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## brenndatomu

Are the Farmertec chain adjusters any better now? Mine wasn't great from the beginning (2 years ago)...needs replaced now I think.


----------



## Byroncar94

This is my first post here ever. So i have this saw too and it was going great for a few hours of run time but now it starts and runs fine but as soon as it gets hot and i try do a cut it just suddenly dies after a few seconds onto the cut like the switch just been turned off but i can start it a few seconds later no problem but then it dies again after a bit of load but it doesn't bog down


----------



## Bedford T

Byroncar94 said:


> This is my first post here ever. So i have this saw too and it was going great for a few hours of run time but now it starts and runs fine but as soon as it gets hot and i try do a cut it just suddenly dies after a few seconds onto the cut like the switch just been turned off but i can start it a few seconds later no problem but then it dies again after a bit of load but it doesn't bog down


Have you tested your saw? Pressure/vac

http://thechainsawkitguy.com

https://youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

brenndatomu said:


> Are the Farmertec chain adjusters any better now? Mine wasn't great from the beginning (2 years ago)...needs replaced now I think.


Doubt it's different

http://thechainsawkitguy.com

https://youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## arto_wa

Seems to be OK in the MS660 I assembled over the holidays.
It helps a lot if the bar holding nuts are loosened properly and one pays attention to what they are doing.

I.E. Since we know it may be a weak link, one should be gentle and not try to force it.










Here is my new saw:








Thank you Bedford T for all the good information you have posted on this forum (and YouTube) regarding building these - it's been a big help.

I like the saw for what I need, and bought a second kit just for the heck of it, when they had it on sale during the holidays.


----------



## Brian Ski

brenndatomu said:


> Are the Farmertec chain adjusters any better now? Mine wasn't great from the beginning (2 years ago)...needs replaced now I think.


Mine seems to be ok. I was told when you install lube it up good and run it end to end a couple times to polish it in. It is installed with a bar, but I have not done any cutting yet.


----------



## Brian Ski

Byroncar94 said:


> This is my first post here ever. So i have this saw too and it was going great for a few hours of run time but now it starts and runs fine but as soon as it gets hot and i try do a cut it just suddenly dies after a few seconds onto the cut like the switch just been turned off but i can start it a few seconds later no problem but then it dies again after a bit of load but it doesn't bog down


Like Bedford said, do a vac/pressure test. You do not want to run them lean with a vac leak. It will run hotter and do internal damage. I would use good fuel with synthetic oil. BTW there are a couple videos he posted a couple posts above that show how to do the test.


----------



## arto_wa

Looks like the MS660 kit price has gone up to little over $300 now!


----------



## Brian Ski

arto_wa said:


> Looks like the MS660 kit price has gone up to little over $300 now!


I think it has been that way for a while. I picked mine up at a black Friday special for about $200 with free shipping. I am not sure how often they run specials. I don't follow a lot but I thought I seen them for $200 and $100 shipping.


----------



## arto_wa

It was $260 when I bought the first one about 2 months ago and on sale during Christmas for $227.50 (both prices with shipping included).


----------



## ssm1699

Haven't been on this thread about mine in awhile. I can honestly say I don't remember if I ever said that I did a big bore kit on my build, after the initialbuild with the regularp&c. Did it, with a popup piston and base gasket delete. Haven't put it into any wood since doing it, but have ran it through some heat cycles. Just did a comp test on it and she blew 195. Wasn't to easy to get it to do the comp test, without it kicking back at me. That SOB has some resistance to her. Haven't tried starting it without the decomp, since doing the big bore. Was able to run and start it on the original p&c with the decomp port plugged.

Can't wait to see how she is once I get some actual break in running on her. Still haven't been able to get back to a big oak that is down, out at my in-laws, that my 32" b&c probably won't go through the trunk in one cut. It will definitely get its break in with that, once we are able to get to it.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk


----------



## ammoaddict

arto_wa said:


> Looks like the MS660 kit price has gone up to little over $300 now!


Wow. They can keep it for that price.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## stilldigging

William Prophett said:


> On that little o-ring, the only one that I see on the parts breakdown around that size is on the carb adjustment screws... Anyway, all those parts should be extras.


Little o-ring is for between the case and the Oiler intake port


----------



## Bedford T

stilldigging said:


> Little o-ring is for between the case and the Oiler intake port


Naw that's not an oring on the oiler. That is thicker. Kinda like a accordion tiny tire. 

The small oring goes on the chain adjuster

http://thechainsawkitguy.com

https://youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Muzzleblastm38

ok update
after 4 cords and 72 9foot slabs 
my all famertech ms660 saw add its first broken parts
is the oil tube crack a the pump and a broken gear 
but the rest is all good and order parts from amazon


----------



## Justin Taylor

Muzzleblastm38 said:


> ok update
> after 4 cords and 72 9foot slabs
> my all famertech ms660 saw add its first broken parts
> is the oil tube crack a the pump and a broken gear
> but the rest is all good and order parts from amazon


When that happens you should replace with oem


----------



## Brian Ski

Justin Taylor said:


> When that happens you should replace with oem


I think he cut a bit of wood... finding the weak spots.


----------



## Justin Taylor

Brian Ski said:


> I think he cut a bit of wood... If you replaced everything with OEM you might as well buy a OEM saw.


Those are cheap parts from Stihl


----------



## Brian Ski

Justin Taylor said:


> Those are cheap parts from Stihl


You replied before I edited my post... I misread about replacing the parts. 

BTW I was wondering how the fuel lines hold up with the new gasoline. I found one place around that sells ethanol free fuel. I been buying my gasoline from them for all my small engines. Not far away and about the same price as premium. Probably better on the carburetor too.


----------



## Muzzleblastm38

The only thing is where I live oem dealer is far and no parts in stock


----------



## brenndatomu

brenndatomu said:


> Are the Farmertec chain adjusters any better now? Mine wasn't great from the beginning (2 years ago)...needs replaced now I think.


OK, as recommended I replaced the tensioner with an OEM one...no difference, still acts "stripped"...I think I need to make bushings, like here... https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/huztl-ms660.300307/page-55#post-6072628


----------



## ammoaddict

brenndatomu said:


> OK, as recommended I replaced the tensioner with an OEM one...no difference, still acts "stripped"...I think I need to make bushings, like here... https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/huztl-ms660.300307/page-55#post-6072628


That's what I had to do to mine.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

That’s the TSB-Huztl660-001 update lol. That was a long time ago. I thought they fixed that? Are they running old cast molds?


----------



## brenndatomu

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> That’s the TSB-Huztl660-001 update lol. That was a long time ago. I thought they fixed that? Are they running old cast molds?


I built mine a few years back...just put up with a marginal adjuster until it finally failed completely...I now have a good sized Oak to drop soon, so I was getting the 660 back to fighting form again.


----------



## Brian Ski

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> That’s the TSB-Huztl660-001 update lol. That was a long time ago. I thought they fixed that? Are they running old cast molds?


I built mine a couple months ago and it seems ok.... But I have not got to fire it up yet. I put a bar on it and it adjust well... I wonder when it gets polished in, if it gets more play in it.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Brian Ski said:


> I built mine a couple months ago and it seems ok.... But I have not got to fire it up yet. I put a bar on it and it adjust well... I wonder when it gets polished in, if it gets more play in it.



Yours maybe ok if your careful with it. Their metal is soft. The ones with to much play were obvious from the beginning.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

brenndatomu said:


> I built mine a few years back...just put up with a marginal adjuster until it finally failed completely...I now have a good sized Oak to drop soon, so I was getting the 660 back to fighting form again.



That’s good to know I hoped they fixed that. My last orange one ran fine even after about 10 gallons I ran through it. I gave it to a guy a couple months back and it’s still going. 
The prebuilt blue one I had finally failed when it snagged a ring.


----------



## arto_wa

I ordered mine in early December 2019 and assembled over the holidays.

The saw works beautifully and based on my experience so far nothing wrong with the adjuster as long as the bar holding nuts are loosened properly like they should!

I did use OEM wrist pin needle bearing and ended up using Husqvarna decompression valve after trying a Stihl OEM one which failed to work to my liking.


The crankshaft installing tool & crankshaft centering etc. information on this site is much appreciated!






Cheers


----------



## motorhead99999

He’s a vid of me noodling with my 660 clone day or two after building it. 
Yes I have a 16” bar on it. Now it has either a 24 or 36 depending on what I’m doing


----------



## brenndatomu

brenndatomu said:


> OK, as recommended I replaced the tensioner with an OEM one...no difference, still acts "stripped"...I think I need to make bushings, like here... https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/huztl-ms660.300307/page-55#post-6072628


I had a few minutes to look at this yesterday...there was a ton of slop in the slot that holds the back end of the screw/gear...I was able to make a tiny shim to put under the back of the screw/gear (about 0.30" thick) and that now holds the 2 gears together well meshed...


----------



## arto_wa

ammoaddict said:


> Wow. They can keep it for that price.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk




Looks like they have now lowered the MS660 & MS440 kit prices quite a bit!


----------



## ammoaddict

arto_wa said:


> Looks like they have now lowered the MS660 & MS440 kit prices quite a bit!


I'll have to check it out.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


----------



## TheTone

I'd be afraid to order from China right now. Although the Chinese have done well in their efforts against the Coronavirus, it is in several other countries now, and is becoming pandemic.


----------



## motorhead99999

arto_wa said:


> Looks like they have now lowered the MS660 & MS440 kit prices quite a bit!


I haven’t looked in a while. Last time I did it was at 350 or so on hL supply. I’d Like to do a ms440 or ms460


----------



## Brownthumb

I have been playing, Ring Around The Rice Patty with them to replace a 660 handle Assy that a mod wont even fix.
They just don’t get it. I would buy one from hlsupply but nobody has them in blue.
I ain’t giving Hutzl another rice cake either.


----------



## ammoaddict

Brownthumb said:


> I have been playing, Ring Around The Rice Patty with them to replace a 660 handle Assy that a mod wont even fix.
> They just don’t get it. I would buy one from hlsupply but nobody has them in blue.
> I ain’t giving Hutzl another rice cake either.


But their engineers said it would work. That's the answer I got from them. It's ridiculous what you have to go through to get them to replace something. They wanted me to send them a video of a leaking gas cap. They did replace a chain adjuster after I had to send multiple pictures of the ground up gears.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


----------



## arto_wa

Nothing wrong with the kit I bought and assembled in December!
Nice and powerful saw.


----------



## arto_wa

Brownthumb said:


> I have been playing, Ring Around The Rice Patty with them to replace a 660 handle Assy that a mod wont even fix.
> They just don’t get it. I would buy one from hlsupply but nobody has them in blue.
> I ain’t giving Hutzl another rice cake either.




I just checked:
New handle assembly is available for $40 including shipping and the orange color carburetor housing is easy to separate and paint in any color.
Additional carburetor housing are about $4 including shipping.

Cheers


----------



## Brownthumb

arto_wa said:


> I just checked:
> New handle assembly is available for $40 including shipping and the orange color carburetor housing is easy to separate and paint in any color.
> Additional carburetor housing are about $4 including shipping.
> 
> Cheers


I told them I would do a cc dispute and that woke them up. 
I have a business and when we screw up, thank god not often but it happens. I go above and beyond to take care of the customer and not screw them around.
One in a while I get a customer that wants to B/S me and I know he or she is full of crap but I take care of it and never will I do business with them again.


----------



## Brownthumb

After a little cc threat they sent me a new orange one. I’ll swap over the blue cover.
It was shipped from the in USA, I received it in 3 days.WTF?


----------



## Mister Fister

Question.

I started my build yesterday and while assembling the cylinder\piston I noticed my squish was .035 using a OEM Stihl gasket. Is this too much squish?


----------



## ammoaddict

Mister Fister said:


> Question.
> 
> I started my build yesterday and while assembling the cylinder\pistol I noticed my squish was .035 using a OEM Stihl gasket. Is this too much squish?


That's what mine is with no gasket and it runs strong

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


----------



## Brownthumb

No, if you want more compression take out the gasket and see what you get.
If I’m correct I pulled out the gasket on mine and landed somewhere around 20.


----------



## arto_wa

Sorry guys, but why not just buy a bigger saw if you need more power?

MS660 clone has plenty for what I need.


----------



## Mister Fister

Im am curious if others who have done a recent 660 build are coming up with spare\extra parts? I am getting worried as I completed my build and have one left over T27 and 2 flat washers


----------



## Bedford T

Mister Fister said:


> Im am curious if others who have done a recent 660 build are coming up with spare\extra parts? I am getting worried as I completed my build and have one left over T27 and 2 flat washers


Extra parts are common. Have been since the first kits.









the1chainsawguy


Welcome, let's talk chainsaw type stuff. I like to build them. I bet you would too, and I would like to give you the opportunity to see and share in the experience and see if you might like it as well. I find it an interesting journey and a lot of fun at the end. An interesting aspect is the kits




thechainsawkitguy.com













the1chainsawguy


This channel is committed to sharing the greatest hobby of all time chainsaw maintenance with a liberal dose of other Stihl 2 cycle products covered. For the...




youtube.com


----------



## Mister Fister

Is this normal? Seems like a lot of excess exhaust soot. I tuned the chainsaw with new 28" bar and chain on it yesterday and this is what it looked like afterwords. Plus damn near all the bar oil leaked out by the morning.


----------



## arto_wa

Mister Fister said:


> Is this normal? Seems like a lot of excess exhaust soot. I tuned the chainsaw with new 28" bar and chain on it yesterday and this is what it looked like afterwords. Plus damn near all the bar oil leaked out by the morning.




I had that initially when running the saw at the "factory" carburetor settings.
The saw started and ran fine, but had a way too rich fuel to air mixture.

It disappeared after I adjusted the carburetor properly (I used a tach).

MS660 carburetor settings:


----------



## Bedford T

Mister Fister said:


> Is this normal? Seems like a lot of excess exhaust soot. I tuned the chainsaw with new 28" bar and chain on it yesterday and this is what it looked like afterwords. Plus damn near all the bar oil leaked out by the morning.


That looks perfect. The process causes excess and as you tune it you fix it. If you don't know to expect it, it will leave you scratching your head. Just wipe it off and heat cycle the cylinder to break in.









the1chainsawguy


Welcome, let's talk chainsaw type stuff. I like to build them. I bet you would too, and I would like to give you the opportunity to see and share in the experience and see if you might like it as well. I find it an interesting journey and a lot of fun at the end. An interesting aspect is the kits




thechainsawkitguy.com













the1chainsawguy


This channel is committed to sharing the greatest hobby of all time chainsaw maintenance with a liberal dose of other Stihl 2 cycle products covered. For the...




youtube.com


----------



## arto_wa

Mister Fister said:


> ................Zip............................. Plus damn near all the bar oil leaked out by the morning.




I would first double check that both the small sealing ring (item 1.) and oil suction hose (item 19.) are installed properly.


----------



## ammoaddict

Mister Fister said:


> Is this normal? Seems like a lot of excess exhaust soot. I tuned the chainsaw with new 28" bar and chain on it yesterday and this is what it looked like afterwords. Plus damn near all the bar oil leaked out by the morning.


That's what mine looked like on initial start up until I got it tuned. It will do that if tuned pretty rich. My bar oil didn't leak out. It's leaks very little bar oil.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


----------



## Muzzleblastm38

me with all the virus
my saw whas leaking bar oil,it whas the pickup tube whas deffective
so decided to order all rubber parts on amazon
its been order on valentine day and still no words


----------



## arto_wa

Well, it may take awhile if it's coming from China...


----------



## Muzzleblastm38

if i install just a o ring intead of a oil pick up tube 
i should b ok am cutting slab and chainsaw is on the side only


----------



## AngrySquirrel

Hi was on the hutzl site earlier tried to order some parts wouldn't do even though lists UK for shipping


----------



## Brian Ski

Not sure if you add to this thread or start my own. I have some running time on my ms660 build. Ran great until today. Maybe an hour of use. Maybe more. It was running good, but noticed the muffler mounting bolts were loose. I retightened, it ran for a bit and died. Thinking I should have refilled the tank after tightening the muffler. I rolled it over to fill it and heard a clink. I took the muffler off and one of the jug bolts was out and one was broken. Ouch. 

A few questions, I want to replace all 4 jug bolts. Is there any high quality bolts to look for?? Hardware store quality ok? They look like M6 x 25mm with a 1.25 pitch. 

Also do you used loctite on them? If so what kind? A high temp?? On Muffler and jug?

I heard of jug bolts loose on this or the other thread quite a while back. But there are hundreds of pages and the search did not seem to help.

Thanks


----------



## RED-85-Z51

Brian Ski said:


> Not sure if you add to this thread or start my own. I have some running time on my ms660 build. Ran great until today. Maybe an hour of use. Maybe more. It was running good, but noticed the muffler mounting bolts were loose. I retightened, it ran for a bit and died. Thinking I should have refilled the tank after tightening the muffler. I rolled it over to fill it and heard a clink. I took the muffler off and one of the jug bolts was out and one was broken. Ouch.
> 
> A few questions, I want to replace all 4 jug bolts. Is there any high quality bolts to look for?? Hardware store quality ok? They look like M6 x 25mm with a 1.25 pitch.
> 
> Also do you used loctite on them? If so what kind? A high temp?? On Muffler and jug?
> 
> I heard of jug bolts loose on this or the other thread quite a while back. But there are hundreds of pages and the search did not seem to help.
> 
> Thanks


That thread sounds right. Check the base gasket for damage. Locktite is okay..use one that can be removed on the cyl bolts and a high temp on the muffler bolts.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk


----------



## Brian Thacker

I use locktite on every bolt I put on and that is any saw. A lot of vibration on saws, so it's just good practice. 
I had the cylinder bolts back out on me the first few hours. That is when I started using locktite on everything saw related. 
I do not use a base gasket either.

Brian


----------



## Brian Ski

Question on the loctite... If you put it on the bolts and put it together do you have to wait a while before you run the saw?? For the loctite to set? The instructions do not say. Normally no problem with automotive use. But the saws have a lot more vibrations. I never used the loctite primer.


----------



## Volund

The bolts will sit pretty good anyway, there is already some blue stuff on them in the box right? and the screw heads have counter marks in them at the bottom making them actually dig in to the magnesium.
The locktite will cure over night, but you really dont have to wait for it - its a long term insurance.


----------



## Brian Ski

Volund said:


> The bolts will sit pretty good anyway, there is already some blue stuff on them in the box right? and the screw heads have counter marks in them at the bottom making them actually dig in to the magnesium.
> The locktite will cure over night, but you really dont have to wait for it - its a long term insurance.


It took a couple hours for it to come loose on me... I guess I am getting gun shy and it can cause some damage if it loosens. Glad I caught it early... If I did...


----------



## Brian Ski

Volund said:


> The bolts will sit pretty good anyway, there is already some blue stuff on them in the box right? and the screw heads have counter marks in them at the bottom making them actually dig in to the magnesium.
> The locktite will cure over night, but you really dont have to wait for it - its a long term insurance.


I don't think the cylinder bolts had loctite. When removed I could not tell. The silver bolts did. The black ones that I have seen did not look like it. But it has been a while since I put it together. 

BTW The bottle of loctite I picked up said 10 minutes for partial set. 24 hours for full hold. It is back together now. I think I have it torqued tighter. I used a torque wrench. I got it to just under 10 ft lbs and snapped the torx bit. Cut it shorter and did about 10+ ft lbs on the bolts. With loctite, it should be fine now. I probably won't fire it up until tomorrow anyway. Weather permitting.

Also used new bolts. Hard to find, I had to order them. Unless you wanted the hardware store ones. Then need to figure out a long allen wrench to tighten them.


----------



## Junkwrencher

Brian Ski said:


> Question on the loctite... If you put it on the bolts and put it together do you have to wait a while before you run the saw?? For the loctite to set? The instructions do not say. Normally no problem with automotive use. But the saws have a lot more vibrations. I never used the loctite primer.


----------



## Junkwrencher

Junkwrencher said:


> View attachment 898801


O.E.M. on the bolts. As to the Loctite, sets in 10 minutes, fully cures in 24 hours.


----------



## Brian Ski

Junkwrencher said:


> O.E.M. on the bolts. As to the Loctite, sets in 10 minutes, fully cures in 24 hours.


I seen that on one package. The other packages did not list it. It also did not show on the PDF on their website under the specs. But good to go. I set it up and cranked it down tight. let it sit over night. I got a good hour run time on it already and holding great. I am thinking not tight enough, it has a lot of compression. It sure did not hurt to use loctite on it either.


----------



## jooky

Bedford T said:


> they have an aerosol that produces extremely low temps. I could never figure out what it was but saw it work


Canned air duster upside down to freeze crank and hot air gun on bearing


----------



## Bedford T

jooky said:


> Canned air duster upside down to freeze crank and hot air gun on bearing


I later found it was a mixture of gases, propane, butane, and ethanol.


----------



## fleethirte

How do you identify if the MS660 kit has the HLIC carb? Also who sells the HLIC carb? Would like to put the bigger jet in it!


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

I had only got this saw to compare to OEM saws I owned in past. I have or had FT G660 G444 G466 G366 G111T G372xp JC3800 JC2500T so far.

I haven’t done this since I tested a stock muffler modded 361 with 32”.
Clone G366 stock muffler mod with 32” full skip square. 

32" was buried for most of cut

Ok impressive it pulled it buried. Need to check and see how it oiled now. Oem was getting stingy back then even is a 2' spruce years back

Imo oiled better then what I recall my oem 361 did in just 2’ of spruce and 32” back then


----------



## Brian Ski

fleethirte said:


> How do you identify if the MS660 kit has the HLIC carb? Also who sells the HLIC carb? Would like to put the bigger jet in it!


FYI, are you doing big mods to it?? (exhaust or new jug?) or just wanting to beef up the carburetor? I grabbed my carb out of the box and opened up the main jet just a few thousands. Since the idea was it ran lean out of the box. Nope. It ran very rich. I had to get a new carb. No going back once you open up the main jet. Once I went back to stock it runs great. Nice running saw. 

BTW when you build it, get the jug bolts Tight. I don't think you can get them tight enough by hand. Torque wrench is preferred. Only problem I had with the build. Besides getting overly zealous over fixing a carb problem that was not there.


----------



## fleethirte

Brian Ski said:


> FYI, are you doing big mods to it?? (exhaust or new jug?) or just wanting to beef up the carburetor? I grabbed my carb out of the box and opened up the main jet just a few thousands. Since the idea was it ran lean out of the box. Nope. It ran very rich. I had to get a new carb. No going back once you open up the main jet. Once I went back to stock it runs great. Nice running saw.
> 
> BTW when you build it, get the jug bolts Tight. I don't think you can get them tight enough by hand. Torque wrench is preferred. Only problem I had with the build. Besides getting overly zealous over fixing a carb problem that was not there.


Makes sense! I was going to use LOCTIGHT and OEM Bolts for the jug. What torque specs do you recommend?


----------



## Brian Ski

fleethirte said:


> Makes sense! I was going to use LOCTIGHT and OEM Bolts for the jug. What torque specs do you recommend?


What I read on here was 11 Ft Lbs. (Stihl manual) Seems pretty tight. I got mine to about 10 and got spooked. They turned, but did not want to get tighter. That is a LOT tighter than you can get by hand. You need a long torx driver to reach them. I did not have one (or could find one easy without ordering). (That had a socket head) I used a hand driver and pounded a socket over the plastic handle so I could use a torque wrench on it. 

I used loctite blue on the threads.

From what I seen with the kit, I would use everything that came with it. If you upgrade, there is always something. I went with a OEM compression relief and a pull start pulley. The pull start takes a lot of beating. If I did it again, I think I would use everything from the kit. 

The saw is pretty beefy. If I tried to increase HP by doing mods, I doubt if I would notice much of a difference.


----------



## Brian Ski

BTW I dropped the trunk. My cousin cuts wood, but did not want to mess with the saw. After I dropped the trunk he looked over and said give me that....


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Be casreful with those aftermarket decomps. It will happen and be to late on these. Will drop straight in the stihl style cylinder. 

Took my old G66 back in trade yesterday and that was the first thing I did. Put a OEM stihl one in on right in pic. The 44 46 got husky oem ones.


----------



## fleethirte

Just remove and plug!


----------



## fleethirte

Or never install lol


----------



## Brian Ski

fleethirte said:


> Or never install lol


Pretty sure you need it. It has a lot of torque on the pull cord. If not, I have heard of the cord pulleys breaking even while using one. Even if you do not mind ringing your hand from the torque. My buddy works for the county and they have replaced a few of the pull cord pulleys on the Original MS660 and 661s?. 

Will keep that in mind to replace with OEM. I did with mine on the build.


----------



## fleethirte

Brian Ski said:


> Pretty sure you need it. It has a lot of torque on the pull cord. If not, I have heard of the cord pulleys breaking even while using one. Even if you do not mind ringing your hand from the torque. My buddy works for the county and they have replaced a few of the pull cord pulleys on the Original MS660 and 661s?.
> 
> Will keep that in mind to replace with OEM. I did with mine on the build.


Probably true but I have never used the Decomp to start my saws


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

fleethirte said:


> Just remove and plug!


It came in plugged after I removed it for younger guy. Next thing you know he was wanting a D ring handle and then later he ordered a decomp. 
He said 200psi stock with base gasket. No clue never checked it myself.

I used to have the mentality of grip it and rip it too. But I grew up and got older and wiser. 

Just let us know in another 30 years added to your age now.


----------



## fleethirte

JeremiahJohnson said:


> It came in plugged after I removed it for younger guy. Next thing you know he was wanting a D ring handle and then later he ordered a decomp.
> He said 200psi stock with base gasket. No clue never checked it myself.
> 
> I used to have the mentality of grip it and rip it too. But I grew up and got older and wiser.


Passive aggressive much..... hahhahaha


----------



## arto_wa

JeremiahJohnson said:


> ......................Zip.........................
> 
> Just let us know in another 30 years added to your age now.



30 more years, or a rotator cuff tear (for any other reason?) ought to do it eh


I used a Husky decomp valve in my MS660 clone and it works as it is supposed to.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

arto_wa said:


> I used a Husky decomp valve in my MS660 clone and it works as it is supposed to.
> 
> View attachment 903179


Only reason this one didnt get husky one. I ran out.


----------



## Brian Ski

fleethirte said:


> Probably true but I have never used the Decomp to start my saws


Neither have I, until I picked up the 660. A lot of compression there. It will rip the pull cord out of your hand. With the decomp it starts like a regular saw.


----------



## RED-85-Z51

You probably could start my 660 without the decomp but it will 100% hurt you if it rips the rope thru your fingers. Hell it does that with the decomp in, because it usually kicks off on the first turnover. Only big saw ive seen that can hang in my shop 4 months and start on 1 pull if you can shut the choke off fast enough.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk


----------



## fleethirte

RED-85-Z51 said:


> You probably could start my 660 without the decomp but it will 100% hurt you if it rips the rope thru your fingers. Hell it does that with the decomp in, because it usually kicks off on the first turnover. Only big saw ive seen that can hang in my shop 4 months and start on 1 pull if you can shut the choke off fast enough.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk


Maybe in 30 years I will remember all the advice of the white and gray hairs on here and put decomps back in my saws.... maybe....


----------



## RED-85-Z51

fleethirte said:


> Maybe in 30 years I will remember all the advice of the white and gray hairs on here and put decomps back in my saws.... maybe....


Im 35[emoji1787][emoji1787]

Its not a strength thing, its a..."the rope and your hand are headed in opposite directions" thing...

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk


----------



## Brian Ski

fleethirte said:


> Maybe in 30 years I will remember all the advice of the white and gray hairs on here and put decomps back in my saws.... maybe....


Post back in here after you get the 660 running. Of all the saws I have ran, that one is a bit different.


----------



## fleethirte

Brian Ski said:


> Post back in here after you get the 660 running. Of all the saws I have ran, that one is a bit different.


Don’t worry I have another MS660 that’s working fine and a Husky 395


----------



## RED-85-Z51

395 and oem 660 don't really need the decomp. The holzforma kicks harder. ElastoStart might help it

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk


----------



## fleethirte

I got a HYWAY and STHIL needle cage bearing for the 660. Should I save the STHIL for my next build which I will use more STHIL parts and use the HYWAY or just ditch the HYWAY and get another STHIL needle cage bearing?


----------



## cookies

if anything use the decomp to prevent wear to the starter recoil assembly


----------



## fleethirte

cookies said:


> if anything use the decomp to prevent wear to the starter recoil assembly


Why dosent this site have a thumbs down button..... lol


----------



## jooky

longer screw here in stihls manual.
on my clone the 16mm pokes through a little, while a 12 would be flush
23 - M5x12
24 - M5x16


----------



## cookies

fleethirte said:


> Why dosent this site have a thumbs down button..... lol


because this forum is full of adults and when someone disagrees, has a idea or further knowledge it gets shared using words and sentences.


----------



## fleethirte

How tight do you tighten the intake manifold clamp on the 660? I used a OEM clamp but boot came with the kit.


----------



## Brian Ski

fleethirte said:


> How tight do you tighten the intake manifold clamp on the 660? I used a OEM clamp but boot came with the kit.


Do you have a manual??? I sent you a PM... Manual shows to tighten clamp as jug is installed.


----------



## Bedford T

fleethirte said:


> How do you identify if the MS660 kit has the HLIC carb? Also who sells the HLIC carb? Would like to put the bigger jet in it!


Again, you will have to look. eBay is where I would start and don't trust the photos. Ask? You can get the same in a walbro wj-70 or buy the wj-68 and put the larger jet in it. You got options.


----------



## Bedford T

fleethirte said:


> How tight do you tighten the intake manifold clamp on the 660? I used a OEM clamp but boot came with the kit.


It's in my videos or website. I recall it's 5-6mm measured between the clamp opening. I demonstrate that. The oem clamp is best


----------



## jooky

So my 2021 parts kit is built.

No missing parts, 2 extra screws
small area of bad paint inside bar oil area, had to scrap out loose paint
circlips no longer have ears you need to clip
 chain adjuster needed brass tube to take some of the slop
muffler needed a little persuasion to fit and a extra gasket 
both crank bearings were garbage - metal bits and damage. replaced with aftermarket
used aftermarket gasket kit
carb didnt work, flooded. did a full disassemble and ultrasound cleaning - now works great
used a husky decomp
no other problems - starts in 2 pulls


----------



## fleethirte

Anyone use the Hyway starter rebuild kit for the 660?









Stihl 066, MS650, MS660 starter rebuild kit






www.hlsproparts.com


----------



## fleethirte

If the crank seal went in a little farther then flush with the bearing race….. will that be ok? Or do I need to remove the seal and put a new one in flush?


----------



## Cobber87

JeremiahJohnson said:


> I had only got this saw to compare to OEM saws I owned in past. I have or had FT G660 G444 G466 G366 G111T G372xp JC3800 JC2500T so far.
> 
> I haven’t done this since I tested a stock muffler modded 361 with 32”.
> Clone G366 stock muffler mod with 32” full skip square.
> 
> 32" was buried for most of cut
> 
> Ok impressive it pulled it buried. Need to check and see how it oiled now. Oem was getting stingy back then even is a 2' spruce years back
> 
> Imo oiled better then what I recall my oem 361 did in just 2’ of spruce and 32” back then
> 
> View attachment 902949
> View attachment 902950
> View attachment 902951


How does the G366 and 361 compare? Thinking of a G366 as even used 361/362's in Aus are $1000 plus. Any issues with the G366 PHO that you are aware of?

Cheers, Pete


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Cobber87 said:


> How does the G366 and 361 compare? Thinking of a G366 as even used 361/362's in Aus are $1000 plus. Any issues with the G366 PHO that you are aware of?
> 
> Cheers, Pete


Cuts like my 361 did. But alot of folks seem to have issues with them. I have no clue if they dont know what there doing or what.
One guy I trust says he had 5 with bad tank vents from get go.

Mine got the leaky tank seam seep after a year or so. Them as we know aftermarket molded lines are hit and miss. Mine leaked at carb. I fix that with dollar oem echo fuel line. I wont pay for oem molded lines unless a owner wants it.

Otherwise runs like a 361.

for 175usd


----------



## Cobber87

JeremiahJohnson said:


> Cuts like my 361 did. But alot of folks seem to have issues with them. I have no clue if they dont know what there doing or what.
> One guy I trust says he had 5 with bad tank vents from get go.
> 
> Mine got the leaky tank seam seep after a year or so. Them as we know aftermarket molded lines are hit and miss. Mine leaked at carb. I fix that with dollar oem echo fuel line. I wont pay for oem molded lines unless a owner wants it.
> 
> Otherwise runs like a 361.
> 
> for 175usd


Cheers for the info. Something for me to consider


----------



## Naptown

I'm new around here, so take it easy on me the best you can. I ordered a Farmertec 066 kit at the end of April. I've been busy but finally got around to finishing it off around the end of may. It fired right up and ran nicely. Then I ended up having a problem. In hindsight, I know what happened. I went to start it and realized that the recoil starter wasn't turning over the motor. I ASSUMED the flywheel was still in the same spot. Wrong, the key sheered and I cranked the flywheel nut down creating incorrect timing. I tried new spark plugs, I tried a new carburetor, new ignition module, etc... It was a frustrating few weeks and then I took it to a buddy who knows these saws much better than me. After explaining everything, he found the sheered woodruff key. I put everything back together and it fired right up. I've added a 24" Tsumra bar and a full chisel chain. I was able to run a tank of fuel through it doing some idling and some soft cutting not revving to high.

Growing up I had a 55cc echo, so this thing feels like an absolute monster. I cannot wait to get several tanks of mix through it. I was so impressed that I started looking at the 044 kits. I wanted to build another kit but then I noticed they had assembled kits on ebay for a 044 for less than the parts kits alone. It was a BIN for $59.99 with $185 of shipping. haha, ended up being $267.48 shipped and that includes a 2 year square trade warranty. Big haha on that, not sure how a warranty would work on this but we will see. It may be a great "insurance policy" if this thing turns out to be a total turd. Anyway, the least expensive 044 parts kit I could find was $350 shipped, so I'm giving this one a try. Thinking I'll use the 24" bar on the 044 and hang a 36" bar on the 066 for future milling.


----------



## Huskyfan1977

Bedford T said:


> If you have interest in using a carb with a replaceable jet, I have found the HLiC to be very reliable. I find the .67 and .69 jets to small. So here are some snaps of the carb. I also heard of an aftermarket brand... ABC that offered the same opportunity.
> 
> View attachment 603775
> View attachment 603776
> View attachment 603777
> View attachment 603778


Where are you getting these Guley (HLiC) carbs at Bedford? I want to buy another kit and you said they no longer ship with the HLiC carbs?


----------

