# Conveyor build



## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 23, 2015)

Okay, people seem to like build threads and I got a lot of favorable comments from the splitter so I'm going to do one on this conveyor. WARNING, this will be a step by step with lots of pics and descriptions so some my not like the detail. I always like stuff like this because I can pick up tricks and ideas for future projects. Not saying the way I do things is the best way, It's just the way I did it and Lord knows I make some mistakes along the way.

With the disclaimer out of the way,  here's the plan. Always try to come up with something to make the wood gathering/processing easier. I take the approach of using the money saved to make the "system" easier. This also lets me be able to do wood heat longer as age creeps up on me.

Been watching sale adds and such for a conveyor. My plan was to get a conveyor with options. I want to be able to use it as not only a conveyor but also a level, moving table that is totally adjustable. I have some ideas I have not seen on current offerings so some of it may be a little involved or may not work at all. All part of the fun huh? Here we go.







*Got this conveyor off craigslist and it was listed by the manager of a closing Kmart store. It's 20 foot long and has a 2 ft wide with a 18 inch wide belt.*
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Just home here and backing it in to the shop. Luckily they loaded it with their forklift and helped getting it down to the floor. WE took rollers along to roll out then he again lifted it onto the trailer. Sure made it easy and glad they were so helpful.






They were using it to feed their storage loft and I bet many a box went up there. It has a 3/4 horse single phase motor with gear reduction.






A great feature it has is forward and reverse. I'll be using this flat a lot to load and unload but want to see how it will do loading into a trailer. No paddles or hooks will limit the steepness it can go but the belt is pretty rough and "grippy" so we'll see.






It has switches at top and bottom which is great as well. Outside out of reach of an outlet I'll have to take a generator along but it won't be a problem for me. Being able to switch on and off and reverse directions more than makes up for it.






My idea is to make a straight substructure so I can have a slide rollers to raise and lower it like a hay elevator. First step is to take off the feet that are on it.m It's all bolted on so it will be easy.






Took the cover off and got a surprise. Twine , plastic and tape was wrapped around the shaft. Then I notice something else. See how the chain is straight?






Either someone at the factory or whoever assembled this put the gear on backward. Notice the set screw can't even be tightened as it's on 2/3 on the shaft.It was loose and the only thing from keeping it on was the binding of the chain.






I think they did it because you have to have a long allen wrench to get in there if you put it on right. Notice all the stuff that was wrapped up in it on the floor.
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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 23, 2015)

*Using Box tubing for the substructure and needed to lengthen the pieces I had. Cleaned them up and put a chamfer so good weld build and strength.*
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Makes for a good weld and I'll hit all sides.






Made up some brackets to bolt it all on. I don't want to weld it on as I can change stuff that way. Rails have holes allready in it so it's a no brainer.






Welded the ends on at the table then bolted the brackets on and brought the rail over. I then tacked the rail to the brackets. Takes all the measuring out of it and saves mistakes. I put cardbord over the belt to save it from the sparks and such.






The rails are this tall to get over the motor and gearbox on the other end. They also have a stretcher in the middle and want to leave that on.






Up next are the cross members that will give it strength and will keep everything square. I'm using a chop saw for the majority of this.






Tacked them all in and kept checking squareness. Everything came together nice.






The center has this tube brace and I want to leave it in. The easiest thing I can think up is an angle tube coming from the cross brace. Not much support under it but I think it'll be fine. Time will tell.






Easiest way I have found is to use a paint stick for a pattern. Trim the angles till their right and the length as well. Takes a little time but saves mistakes and wasted metal.*


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## mauldinoutdoor (Feb 23, 2015)

Did you find that at the Kmart in Waterford?


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 23, 2015)

mauldinoutdoor said:


> Did you find that at the Kmart in Waterford?


It was near the Faifield Commons Mall in Bellbrook, Ohio near Dayton.


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## mauldinoutdoor (Feb 23, 2015)

Just heard about one here in Michigan the other day but forgot to call about it. I built a firewood conveyor out of a 15' long sheet bent 90° along the length, used some old 60h. chain with 4" dogs welded every 2'. Ran it off a secondary circuit on splitter


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## cantoo (Feb 23, 2015)

I bought a short one at Repo cast in Michigan a few years ago. It's only about 6' long. Not sure what I'm going to do with it, I was just trying to buy a load of stuff to make the trip worth it. Another future project I guess.


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## ft. churchill (Feb 23, 2015)

I loved the wood splitter you built, great job. I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out. 

P.S. rapistan conveyors are very good, I've had several of them when I was at a garden hose factory. I was a maint. mech. there and those conveyors just like yours gave great service 24 hours a day 5 to 6 days a week with almost no problems. There was three folks winding garden hoses about one every thirty seconds and slamming them down on the deck. That should see less of a duty cycle in firewood service.


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## dumbarky (Feb 23, 2015)

Man, Kevin I like you builds, always lots of pics and explanations. My son and I were just talking about trying to rig a conveyor to fill the wood shed last weekend. He is twelve, but darn the kid has lots of good ideas. I think he want to be an engineer, but he used to want to drive the garbage truck not long ago. Think he is just tired of dad working him like a rented mule. 

Good job Kevin keep it coming.


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## walkerdogman85 (Feb 23, 2015)

Nice work. I followed your splitter build and stole some of your ideas. Lol. Looking forward to this!!


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## MechanicMatt (Feb 23, 2015)

Looking good so far Kevin


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 23, 2015)

*Going to run a bolt up from the bottom to secure it. Got a piece of scrap 3/8" metal and marked the center and in measure of the hole. Centered it and pilot drill.






Drill the hole to tap size






Then put a tap in and start it. I keep them loose and then finish by hand.






All tapped and tube cut to size. Now I'll cut the tapped plug to size.






Beveled the edges and set it flush, Tacked it in place.







After welding it in I ground the weld to flush.






Both of them done and in and gives a pretty clean look.






On the end I want to have heavy caster wheels so when loading/unloading on the level it doesn't get tippy and it will be self contained. I'm going to reuse the foot bracket as it has adjustment capability.






I cut the feet off and will be mounting it backwards from what they had. Just works out better for my application. Welding it on here.*


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 23, 2015)

*Both of them on and doing all the final welding.*
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With the box tubing you can get pretty strong joints because of the surface area.






Frame work serves double duty to strengthen the whole thing and give me a nice track for the lift wheels to follow.






Bolted it all back on and the highest the wheels will be is 54 inches.






The lowest is 36 inches which is about as low as I want to reach. I like this system as I can take the adjustable section out if I want to use it as an elevator or go into a trailer.






Cut the mounting plates out with the chop saw, rounded the corners and smoothed the edges






Laid the caster on and traced the holes. center punched and pilot drilled and then drilled the final hole size. Notice I clamped both of them together for time savings.






All done and ready to weld onto the legs.






Remember the brackets that attached the box beam rails to the conveyor? I cut 45's on the edges and these are the scraps. Now to use them for strengthening gussets.
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## SteveSS (Feb 24, 2015)

Subbed for updates. You do good work, Kevin. I wish I knew how to weld.


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## sam-tip (Feb 24, 2015)

I assume this conveyor is to load the split wood coming from the splitter. Not to manage the wood going to the splitter.

tappa talk samsung note 2


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 24, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> I assume this conveyor is to load the split wood coming from the splitter. Not to manage the wood going to the splitter.
> 
> tappa talk samsung note 2



As of right now, no. We split everything where it falls. back the splitter down the trunk, throw to the sides, back the truck down the same path and load from both sides. just the way that works the best for us. Right now the plan it's main use will be to load/unload out of the barns and furnace house to save another handling and steps. One guy in the truck feeding the conveyor table(laying flat) and the other stacking. Or, if I'm by myself I can load the whole conveyor by stop and start. Then walk in and unload, start and stop. Some of the barns we stack in get hard to stack when your doing the center sections so I think this will speed things up.

I'm making it so it CAN be used for whatever may come up because sometimes situations change. I like to have options!


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## mr.finn (Feb 24, 2015)

Nice work so far. I can't wait to see the finished product.


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## MechanicMatt (Feb 24, 2015)

Me too MrFinn, me too. Keep at it Kevin


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 24, 2015)

*Tacked the brackets on and rechecked them for straightness. Then put the gussets on and welded everything up.*
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Makes for a nice strong mounting base.






Close up of the front leg. I'll drill a hole through both legs and put a bolt in for now. probably put a pin with linchpin later. Single bolt you see here is one of 2 pinch bolts that Have slide inside. Not strong enough to hold it for me.






Slid the caster assembly in and rolled the conveyor back over. Starting to come together now.






Next up is getting the wheels and lifting system worked out. First up is the axle and wheels. Brother in law came through for me and had some mobile home spindles. Even brought me 2 new rims and tires. Thanks Rod!!






I'm doing something a little more involved than just a normal axle. I want to be able to slide it flush with the side so you can pull beside it close and have the wheels to be able to turn 90 degrees. Some idea crunching in my head and started by cutting a couple 2 1/2 inch holes in a 3/4 Inch thick strap.






Use a lot of cutting oil and slow speed and those hole saws will last pretty good. After one was drilled I cut it in the middle and cut the rest off. Then did another one for the other side. These will be weld cradles for the outside of the hinge.






Used some triple wall pipe I had laying around and they will be what the hinge will ride in. 2 1/2" OD 1 1/2" ID. I want this whole hinge to be able to slide in the axle tube. Hard to explain but as we go along you'll see what I'm after. Trued them up on the lathe.






I always add grease zerks on everything so stuff will last and this is no exception. Won't get a ton of wear but it's always nice when something works easy! Easier to drill and tap before welding up so that's what I'm doing here.*


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 25, 2015)

*Drilled a center in the end of the shaft and spun it down to the size of the triple wall pipe. Gave it .002 - .003 clearance. Someone needs to clean their lathe!*
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Nice and smooth and I'll cut the shaft later for the 2 sides. I'm using the same size box tubing on the spindle side and that is next.






This is the 4 inch box tubing with the layout shown. 1 1/2" hole for hinge and the 2 center punched dimples will be where the locating pin will be( 0 and 90 degrees) Also going to drill the ends for set screws to hold the hinge pin in place.






Drilled the big hole with a short pilot drill first. then switch to a longer aircraft drill to get the other side. This way the holes will be true and no more measuring needed.






Didn't have a 1 1/2" drill or reamer so I used a hole saw again. Not real critical as the set screws will keep the shaft in position. Wear will be in the middle where it is right. Pilot drilled for set screws and drilled to tapping size. Put the shaft in and sunk it into it as well.






I then cobored the holes so I didn't have to tap so much. No need for that much thread anyway. The indexing holes will be enlarged when it get put together. that way I can stair step drill them so the holes align correctly.






I have to cut the reliefs on the sides and going to rough them in with the plasma cutter. IF I had a mill it would be easier but I'm going to have some handwork here. Set up cheater with a 1/2 inch offset. I drill a hole to save backsplash on start up.






Doesn't take long at all and now I have a stop line when coming in from the end to finish the rough in for the pocket.






Worked out that the tubing was close enough to do both sides*


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## boxygen (Feb 25, 2015)

Looks like a great score on the conveyor! Subscribed. I read your splitter build and was blown away. I'm sure this will not disappoint either. I cant wait to see the final pics of the operation in action. Or maybe a video of the entire process.


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## andydodgegeek (Feb 25, 2015)

So far so good. Another nice build thread kevin, always enjoy your builds.


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## lone wolf (Feb 25, 2015)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> *Drilled a center in the end of the shaft and spun it down to the size of the triple wall pipe. Gave it .002 - .003 clearance. Someone needs to clean their lathe!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You are one hell of a good fabricator.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 25, 2015)

*Majority is out and now I'll have some "quality" time with the angle grinders and files.*
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Contoured the ends while I had the torch out.






I spray a little dyechem or paint to get a shadow to blend too. Magic marker will work as well. This is after getting it close with the grinders and ran a file over it a few times. Takes some time but the results are worth it






Here it is finished blended. Notice how it fades evenly to the hole side. The opposite side will ride nice on that.\






Up next is to get the ends uniform and smooth.






I use a piece of round as a guide and use a C cl;amp to hold it in place. Rough it real close with a body grinder, then true it with a hand file and finish with 80 grit sandpaper on a soft back pad on a die grinder.






I guess I should show some of the tools. I keep a variety of hand files with varying cuts.






I use a 9 inch and 4 1/2 inch angle grinders. Both are Milwaukee and I've wore out both as these are replacements. Yes, I use them a lot! With a new wheel on the 9 inch you can use it to get things real flat.






This is a die grinder with a 3M roloc attachment. Then a 3M soft back pad. These things are great and I don't know why 3M doesn't promote them more. Sticky back sandpaper is used on them.*


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 25, 2015)

*Here's a close up of it. I like it as I can go cheap with a sand paper. I have a buddy who works at a body shop and he saves all their DA paper. Most the time they use just the outer edges and the center is fine. Not a big deal to cut them out as the pad twists off in a 1/4 turn.






They work extremely well on smoothing thins out once you have them roughed in.






This one is a little chewed up but wanted to show the surface. You can dress them smaller on a belt sander or bench grinder. Wish they made them in bigger sizes.







Here is the result of using these tools. Gives stuff a better than factory finish and looks great when painted.






The index holes will get redrilled when I get the center tube mount done.






I made the hinge a pretty tight fit so I had to have hard corners there. I filed them in.






For the center tube I have to weld the spindle collars inside and it needs to be smooth. The weld slag is in there and I used a cold chisel to get most of it out.






On the spindle tube holders I had to radius the outer edges to match the inside of the tube. Did it quick with the angle grinder but wanted nice , sharp corners to hold itself in place and allow it to be checked for the correct position.






Marked the line and clamped a piece of steel on the line. Then hand filed it. Here it is finished.*


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## Preston (Feb 26, 2015)

Great work. It's always so sweet when one has the equipment to do the job. I am so envious. What you're doing is my absolutely funnest thing to do. But all that is in the past. I do enjoy your builds.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 26, 2015)

*Drilled 4 large holes down the length. These will be so I can plug weld the spindle/hinge tubes. Hard to get a lot of good weld on the inside so this will work in this application.*
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Crank the amps up and try to push the heat down, then circle your way up to fill. Makes it basically flush when complete.






Then welded the front side. Snag ground reliefs on this stuff for stronger joints.






I chamfered the tubes as I want some extra there. I have to grind it flush after welding as the other half rides on it. Cleaned everything for welding.






Clamped a piece over the hole to keep it clean and put a bead down.






Ground down and filed in.






All done except the index holes and works great.






On 90 degrees it bottoms out on the center tube as I had hoped it would.






Couldn't have anymore room than that! I relieved the steel in most places prior to welding so it's even stronger than it looks.*


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 26, 2015)

*Next is to make a box that with hold the axle. I also need to have it "lock" into position for road transport and have something to keep the slop out of it. I cut 2 pieces of angle to length.






I'm going to make pushers out of some 2 1/2" box beam. 3/8" thick so it will be strong enough. Drilled the 5/8" tapping size hole through. I'll cut it in half to make the 2 brackets.






Cut a couple chunks of solid steel out and ground a 1.05 inch radius to match the box beam on the axle. This will push the axle on 45 degrees making a positive locking system.






Here's a trick. When you want to weld a nut on and tap the beam below. Run your old drill up through the tube and nut. This will self center it so you can tap easily. I've had binding issues when tapping the beam prior.






I countersunk the blocks with a 5/8" hole. This will keep it in position while the tube is sliding.






Back to the angle. Marked where I wanted the brackets to be welded and cut to the lines with a small wheel on the chop saw.






Then cut the straights with the plasma cutter.






Cleaned up the pockets and ready to weld the pusher brackets on.






After double checking and cleaning up the edges for good welding contact I tacked them on. Everything looked good.
*


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## Philbert (Feb 27, 2015)

Nice build. Nice photos - thanks.

I used the 3M soft backed pads for smoothing ('fairing') boat hulls. They also sell some through their auto body finishing line.

I have also made up a few by gluing different densities of foam to backing pads, including on a larger (7") disc sander.

Philbert


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 27, 2015)

I'm not entirely sure where you are going with the design. Post #26: Will spindles be welded on these to rotate the wheel/tires 90 degrees rather than a straight axle? Very nice option if so.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 27, 2015)

Sandhill Crane said:


> I'm not entirely sure where you are going with the design. Post #26: Will spindles be welded on these to rotate the wheel/tires 90 degrees rather than a straight axle? Very nice option if so.



Yeah, that's the plan on the axle. Basically be able to slide the axle completely to one side to pull right up next to it. Or if your splitting into a truck or pile, Turn the wheels 90 degrees and move it sideways in a radius fashion without having to move the truck or trailer or your splitters position. You could also move it the same if you are just pilling a lot on the ground. Just wanted options while I was making it. I like to play!

It will come to light in future pics.. at least I hope it works!


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## boxygen (Feb 27, 2015)

I didn't want to admit I couldn't follow what exactly you were building, but it didn't matter because it was so beautiful!


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 28, 2015)

*Final welded them and should be plenty strong. I'd like to double nut them but will either have to find an extra long threaded bolt or modify the ones I have here.*
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Now I'm ready to get the outer box ready to weld. I'll use some .155 thick washers so I have even slop and the tube will slide easy. This will allow fot any warping during welding too.






Went to the surplus store and low and behold they had these 5/8 bolts with threads all the way at a $1.00 a pound. I'll cut them to size later. I cut the angle here on 2 sides to get the gaps right for welding.






With the box tube inside along with the washers I then stitch welded it all up.






Tightened the bolts down and then drilled a 3/4" hole for the pin. It will be a safety to keep the axle from being able to move side to side while in transport.






Slid it under for mock up and looks good.






Slid a tire and spindle in to have a look see. I'm keeping a 6 ft wide track so it doesn't take up a lot of road while moving. Up next it to weld the spindles to the outer hinge box.






My BIL cut the spindles off quick and wanted to true them up so I took them apart and ran them on the lathe.






While it was in there I skimmed the flange face and cut the tube to a nominal size. You'll see why shortly.*


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 28, 2015)

*Angle ground the box heavy for a strong joint and cleaned up the flats for welding.*
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Laid the first bead down.






Then put a second bead all the way around. Up next is to weld the backside on the inside of the tube.






This is what I have looking inside. Going to make up a filler piece that will take the gaps in so I can weld it all up here as well.






Got some 1/4" x 3 strap and cut it out with a hole saw while it was long. Rounded the 2 corners then cut it off. I then rounded the 2 remaining corners. The hole saw was a nominal size and that is why I turned the shaft down to that size.






Drove the filler in and now it is ready.






All welded and done now.






Now I'm going to make the brackets for the support/lift arms. Using box tubing here and will drill all the holes first. It's easier to hold for me that way and it's keeps them straight with no flexing while drilling.






Did the measurements and allowed for the cut as well. No bandsaw so I'll use the chop saw for that.*


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## MechanicMatt (Feb 28, 2015)

Kevin I own all miller except for a old lincoln arc, what do you own? Would love to see some pics of your tools too. My two good buddies have hobart welders and a "snap-on" The scrap-on never seems to feed the line right.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 28, 2015)

MechanicMatt said:


> Kevin I own all miller except for a old lincoln arc, what do you own? Would love to see some pics of your tools too. My two good buddies have hobart welders and a "snap-on" The scrap-on never seems to feed the line right.



They are in some of the pics if you look in the background. Miller 250X MIG, Miller Syncrowave 250 and Hypertherm plasma.

Has your buddy replaced the liner on the Snap-on? That's the number one cause on feed issues. Dust/dirt over time builds up on the wire spool in the machine and that dust gets fed into the line. After a while it puts too much friction that the drive rollers can't push it smoothly causing it to either slip or chug if you will. I've replaced mine about 4 times over the years. The covers are FAR from air tight and dust gets in there. When I'm not using mine I now put a blanket inside to keep the dust from building up on the wire.


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 28, 2015)

Yes, great plan. I have a 28' Built-Rite conveyor with a straight axle. They are great tools, but it has always been a lot of work to move it.


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## Philbert (Feb 28, 2015)

Very nice build - all looks heavy duty. With all the fabrication you are doing, it seems like you could have just as easily started from scratch, instead of using the Kmart conveyor!

Philbert


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 28, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Very nice build - all looks heavy duty. With all the fabrication you are doing, it seems like you could have just as easily started from scratch, instead of using the Kmart conveyor!
> 
> Philbert



Have you priced belts, bearings and rollers? Just kidding. I'll let them figure all that out plus I have gear reduction, motor and electrics all in place. It's a good quality piece.


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## MechanicMatt (Feb 28, 2015)

Looking at @Sandhill Crane conveyor and his mobility coment, think maybe mounting one above a old garden tractor so moving it and powering it could be easier. Maybe a old wheel horse with its pto powering the conveyor..........


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## Joesell (Feb 28, 2015)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> They are in some of the pics if you look in the background. Miller 250X MIG, Miller Syncrowave 250 and Hypertherm plasma.
> 
> Has your buddy replaced the liner on the Snap-on? That's the number one cause on feed issues. Dust/dirt over time builds up on the wire spool in the machine and that dust gets fed into the line. After a while it puts too much friction that the drive rollers can't push it smoothly causing it to either slip or chug if you will. I've replaced mine about 4 times over the years. The covers are FAR from air tight and dust gets in there. When I'm not using mine I now put a blanket inside to keep the dust from building up on the wire.



I picked up a pack of filters for my might wire from my local welding shop. It really cuts down on the cap that gets dragged into the liner. I also cut up a 3m pad and stacked it like an accordion before the filter. I figured it would "scrub" the wire before it runs through the fine filter.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 28, 2015)

*Once they were all drilled, I used the plasma torch to rough cut to length. I'm going to round the open end so leaving it long. Just quicker to cut this way and less wear on the chop saw blade.*
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All cut up and ready to round the open end. I'll cut a short piece of round stock, center drill a 5/8" hole and bolt it to the bracket. I'll blend it out using the method shown before. Takes a little time but gives it a nice finish touch.






Got those all done and cleaned up. I'll work on the arms next. I have to make up some solid pivots for the ends that will be welded into the box tubing and will keep the wear to a minimum.






Marked the hole for the pivot and drilled it out. I'm drilling into a long bar and want them straight so I supported the far end and brought it to level with the table. Keeps everything straight that way. You can see I'm getting rid of the honeysuckle in here! Doesn't take but a few pieces to keep the shop nice.






These are the bushings I'll weld into the ends of the box tubing. Made them out of bar stock. I chamfered the ends so when I grind them flush there is still weld there.Also drilled/tapped them all for zerks.






Recessed the tubing and held it all in place with a 5/8" bolt for welding. this way everything stays true and tight. I'll grind away the excess.






Quick welding here and it really is overkill but I want them solid.






All blended out and ready to go. This way everything clears the mounts when it swings and just plain looks better.






Here you can see the full radius and how it will be able to pivot.*


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 28, 2015)

*Next I had to determine the position of the axle so I needed to find the balance point. Lifted it a few time but got it. I'll use this as a center line on where to put the axle. Still have to add the hitch, jack and such at the end so it will be front heavy as it should be for towing and such.






Pulled the axle out and i'm going to weld the pivot brackets on. I want them as low as possible so I have as much of an angle as possible. This will make raising and lower it easier than if it is close to flat with the conveyor. Laid it on the bench and squared everything up before clamping them in place.






Welded them all up on all four sides.






A little later I realized this was a mistake. You need to have the front a solid mount otherwise the axle will flop over.






I had to cut one of these off and weld the tube on. You'll see this set up for a while then it will change. Made a boo boo there!






Now for the slide brackets for the other end of the lifting arms. Local used steel supplier sells by the pound and the have an extremely well organized place. had the ready cut smalls laying there so I snatched them up.






Marked a single piece first and drilled it out for a pattern. Looked good so I grouped the closest sized pieces and drilled them in sets of 4. Keeps everything the same and goes quicker. Once 2 holes are drilled I bolt them together for sameness.






Once all drilled and bolted, I true up the ends to make them the same. Easier as a group because you can see the flatness come in. 9 inch body grinder makes quick work of it.







I rough them in with an old wheel then lay a new wheel flat faced on the end. Does a nice job as you can see. Every so often I run a cluster diamond over the surface to keep the glazing off of and the cutting going on.*


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 1, 2015)

Again not sure what direction you are going. With mine the axle yoke pivots towards the tongue end and raises and lowers towards the high end with a manual jack and some adjustable pin points on a slip tube. What happens with this design is the axle moves forward and rearward in relation to the center, or midpoint (edit: should read balance point) of the conveyors length, changing the balance point. At full height the tongue weight is very light. Wood moving up the belt can then tip it. When lowered the axle pivots to the rear increasing tongue weight, more than I can lift and want on the solid axle of my quad. I have know idea if this applies to what your doing or not.
Edit: This is the best photo I could come up with from what I had.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 1, 2015)

Sandhill Crane said:


> View attachment 407928
> Again not sure what direction you are going. With mine the axle yoke pivots towards the tongue end and raises and lowers towards the high end with a manual jack and some adjustable pin points on a slip tube. What happens with this design is the axle moves forward and rearward in relation to the center, or midpoint, of the conveyors length, changing the balance point. At full height the tongue weight is very light. Wood moving up the belt can then tip it. When lowered the axle pivots to the rear increasing tongue weight, more than I can lift and want on the solid axle of my quad. I have know idea if this applies to what your doing or not.
> Edit: This is the best photo I could come up with from what I had.



I thought about doing it like that and I guess my gut was right on what would happen. What I'm planning "should" put more weight to the front. It will be adjustable as well for weight transfer too if needed. Hard to explain but it'll come to light eventually. Thanks for the input! I'll probably use mine more as as a level table to reach into buildings and such.


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## Hddnis (Mar 1, 2015)

Lookin' good, KiO

You'll wonder how you got by without it.



Mr. HE


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 1, 2015)

*Corners rounded and smoothed here. I'll now weld the brackets on 2 of them.*
*





Brackets on and they are done. I'm making them bolt on so I can adjust if need be. Once I have exactly where I want I may drill a single hole to bolt through to lock in position.






Mounted the bracket on the rail and gave myself some adjustment room on both sides. Always good to have a plan B if need be.






With the bracket ready I can now measure and drill the front tube. I'll just drill it for now and wait to weld in the bushings till I have it all checked out.






With the 2 finished ends bolted together I drill the opposite end. I used 2 pieces of heavy stock and C clamps to hold the other end straight.






Slid some bolts in so next is the back. I need to make up some Spool type rollers to slide on the 1 1/2" rails. I'll turn them out on the lathe.






Had some 3 inch diameter stainless so I made them out of that. center drilled the end and started working it all out. .375 shoulders and here I'm basically done. I'll drill the 5/8" hole in the lathe as well.Edit






Cut them off and skimmed the ends to bring in the .375. Added bonus I'll have no rust issues since they're 300 series stainless.






Should keep the tube captured pretty well. I allowed some clearance for paint on the tube but it'll wear off fast.*


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## Philbert (Mar 2, 2015)

You make it look easy!

Philbert


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 2, 2015)

*Clamped the spool at the furthest point possible. I'll take this measurement and cut these tubes to length. I can always shorten if need be. With on the fly making stuff I tend to like to have options.*
*



*

*To mount the spools I needed some stout strap. Had some leftover 3/8" that I had cut off something with the plasma. Had a nice cut side so I cut them to the same length. I want them the same and smooth so I'll use the 9 inch to true up the sides. Clamp them together first.*
*





After roughing in with the old wheel put on the newer full size and sprayed a dust coat. Lets you see the lows better. Ran it over a few times holding flat and when it stops cutting nice I skim a cluster diamond over the surface of the wheel.






In less than 5 minutes you have decrease your scrap pile and found a use for some steel on hand.






All four pieces are ready for next step. I need to bend some offsets in the as the spools are wider than the tubing. This is why I went with heavy pieces for this. I need a 1/2" offset on each side. Could weld spacers but I have another idea.






Got 2 pieces of 1/2" scrap stock and put them opposite of one another. Then used 2 large chunks of hardened tool steel above and pressed it with the 40 ton. Put layout lines on it so I should be able to make them all the same. Steel doesn't argue with the press!






Got all the strap bent and the same. I'll now drill them out and round the corners.






Threw the spool in there to double check and looks good.






Put the arm in position and clamped on the roller bracket assembly. I'll weld it up now that I now everything is lined up right.*


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 2, 2015)

*With the sides welded I'll make up a extended cap to tie everything together more. It'll also keep moisture/dirt from running down the tube as well.*
*





Caps are on so now I'm moving on to tying the 2 arms together and making an attachment loop for the winch cable.






Got some 1/2" round stock and cut it to length. I've made up a chart over the years of what sizes are needed for ones I've done. Used the compact bender to them it cold.






Makes real nice loops and fast too! I'm going to used tubing for cross braces and will drill through and weld this in on the backside of the tube.






Cut a couple a pieces of tubing to length. I want to make it a double box if you will for more contact area and strength. This is the basic layout as I'll build this on the floor. I won't weld it to the arms until I reinstall it.






Where the loop goes through I want more meat so I cut a piece of 3/8" out of some scrap and trued the edges. I then marked centerline and 4 bend lines.






Put the 3/8" piece in the compact bender and bent the angles equal.






Then bent the other ends till they were straight with the middle flat. quick and easy






Here's all the pieces after cutting out a few more braces. Looks like it will all work so I'll tack and weld the center of the strap to the lowest box beam. I'll then drill the holes for the loop, while it's easy to do.*


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 2, 2015)

*Drilling like this allowed me to do it on the drill press. I then drove the loop through the holes. Makes for a very clean install.*
*





I ground angles on the loop ends and countersunk the 3/8" strap with a bigger drill bit. I'll now weld it all in place.






This part is done and I don't think it'll pull out!






Put it back on the floor, squared it up and C clamped it all up. Then tack welded it and rechecked squareness. Once it look okay I took it to the bench and welded it up. I'll now put it all back on to tack the center section to the arms to make sure it is all aligned properly.






Put it all back in place and tacked it into position. Then pulled it all back off to bench weld everything.






Completely welded up now so next is to make some "stretchers" as I call them to increase the strength of the square tubing. This will eliminate any flexing that could happen. I'm pretty sure the winch will not lift it in the clear down position as the arms are just too straight. I have to have the low level so I'm kind of stuck here.






Local yard has some 1 1/2" strap surplus so for $20.00 I got eight 10 footers. I clamped 4 together flush at one end so I can cut them all at once.*
*





Makes them all the same this way and it is faster too.






Cut 8 short sections of tubing all the same length as well and cleaned up the weld area.*


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## zogger (Mar 3, 2015)

Double hat tip to you guys who can work metal this good!


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## jags (Mar 3, 2015)

Kevin - as always...nice work.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 3, 2015)

Marked the center and welded the upright shorty on






Then on the one end I cleaned up where the strap will lay flat and beveled the sides where the strap will lay flush. 






Had to bevel the bottom of the strap as well because of the welded on roller brackets. 






Weld on the strap just on the end, letting it lay on the upright. See how it is angled towards the inside of the bracket?






I use a C clamp to draw both sides in. This also "loads" up the strap giving it tension. When it is all welded together it makes the box beam way stronger because now it has to stretch the strap on the opposite side of the force.






Welded in and just have to do the other end the same. Then I'll weld the center post to the strap.






One side all done and installed. Everything looks real good so far.






Did the other end in the same manner. With this all done, up next will be getting the winch mount done. The winch will be a safety and will raise it real high if needed. I'm planning on a bottle jack to raise it for the most part. 






Using previously made brackets on the bolt on side and decided to put the down tube where the splice was in the lower tube. Just added strength at the weakest point. It's about at the perfect location anyway.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 3, 2015)

Cut and welded an upright on and did the same on the other side.






I want to mount the winch in the center, under the belt so it is out of harms way. Used 2 pieces of heavy angle and welded them to a box beam.






Ground it smooth and laid out where the winch will bolt to. Marked and drilled the holes while it was not installed. Just easier to do the drilling.






Tacked the tube on and looks real nice. I'll put some angled braces in later but now I want to work on extending the crank handle. I want to have a nice solid mount so it doesn't flop around. 






Can't see it too well but I purposely mounted it so the crank's shaft was close to the upright. That way I can use a heavy piece of flat and just weld it to the upright and top bracket. 






This winch has 2 crank option and I'm going to use the slower on as it will make cranking easier. Doesn't need top be fast. It has a metric thread. 






I got a piece of pipe and tapped it with the correct size. I'll drill and tap for set screws on both sides later, once I know the length is right.






Test fit look fine. I'm planning on using a solid shaft on the outside so I'll just weld that to the pipe. Crank end will have the most stress so I want that to be solid.






Got a piece of 1" X 3" flat stock. Did my measuring and drilled a 1.250 hole. I'm going to use a oil impregnated Bronze bushing here for the crankshaft to ride in. Here it is pressed in flush.


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## sam-tip (Mar 3, 2015)

What is the scrap yard asking for steel by the pound. I picked up a few pieces yesterday for 46 cent per lb. Don't know if I got the steel shaft or a good deal.


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## MechanicMatt (Mar 3, 2015)

Looking good Kevin, looking good.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 4, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> What is the scrap yard asking for steel by the pound. I picked up a few pieces yesterday for 46 cent per lb. Don't know if I got the steel shaft or a good deal.



54 cents/lb here for normal stuff. Box tubing and box beams can go higher unless they get a lot they want to move quick. The yard is extremely well organized and sorted. Most uinder roof and a lot of it has no rust on it. Yeah, I'm pretty spoiled. I've been going there since I was a kid with dad and a lot has changed, for the better over the years. Yes, I'd say that is a decent price you got there, at least in our area.


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 4, 2015)

I'm thinking I see what may or may not be an issue. That of axle mount tube rotation and lateral (side to side)movement as well unless x-braced in some way.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 4, 2015)

Sandhill Crane said:


> I'm thinking I see what may or may not be an issue. That of axle mount tube rotation and lateral (side to side)movement as well unless x-braced in some way.



Bracing and gussets will be in place. This is just the set up stage of it. I learned not to do everything at the begining as sometimes things have to be changed for unseen issues. Backword engineering I guess.


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 4, 2015)

Good. Was not sure how posting that observation would go over. I second guessed posting it after I did so. Thank you. A multipurpose conveyor may be very useful.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 4, 2015)

Sticking out the back side so I'll cut it off in the chop saw. and grind it all flush. 






I then drilled and tapped it for a grease zerk while it was easy to do. 






Cut the flat to 4 1/2 inches and rounded the one corner. I then got some bar stock and turned it to just fit the bushing. Test fit it here and slips on real smooth. 






I then turned the shaft down to slip into the pipe. This way it'll self align when welding.






I angled both sides as I have to grind away everything above the shaft so I can remove it if need be.






Welded it up with the MIG then I realized I should have just used the TIG as it would have been better. I'll have to smooth this out now.






Shaft all smoothed out and blended so it slips right in now.






Put the shaft in and made sure it wasn't binding, then I welded the 1 x 3 block in place.






For the crank handle I want to be able to reverse it quickly so it's out of harms way. I cut off some round stock and gouged a slot in it with the chop saw in inset the original handle.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 4, 2015)

Didn't want to shorten the handle but it had a indexed hole in it. I stuck a piece of heavy copper under it and plug welded it. Weld doesn't stick to copper so it fills the hole quickly with no blow through.






Ground it close then ran a file over it a few times to get to this point






Soft pad it a few seconds and "what hole?" 






Carefully marked the holes on the collar so they were equal and in the center. I want to be able to use any of the 4 possibilities and slide a spring pin in. I stair stepped drilled and it brought it all in true.






Ready to weld it up and will make a nice handle. 






Handle on and done. I triangle filed witness marks on all four possible positions so in a glance you get the pin to drop right in.






Handle in and out of the way. 






Really like how this turned out and the solid feel of it.






Put some box tubing on angles to help support the winch assembly.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 4, 2015)

Sandhill Crane said:


> Good. Was not sure how posting that observation would go over. I second guessed posting it after I did so. Thank you. A multipurpose conveyor may be very useful.



How it would go over? I'm always open for tips anyone could give me and appreciate anything you see that may cause issues. Never too old to learn and you just keep building your knowledge/experience base faster that way. Guys have helped me through the years and just trying to pass what I have found along.


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## Guswhit (Mar 5, 2015)

Looking great!!!!!!!!!!


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 5, 2015)

Had an idea for making it easier to move the whole conveyor around by myself. I got some 2 1/2" round stock and cut/ground to 1" thick. Wire cut a .760 square into each of them. 






I then put them in the lathe and turned some angle reliefs.






Got some triple wall pipe and cut 10 pieces to equal length. Then drill and tapped them to 1/2 fine thread. I'll grind some wrench flats on them later.






I screw them onto the existing wheel studs.






Laid out some holes on a piece of strap. Need a 1/2 inch hole on one end and a 1.250 radius on the other. 






Drilled the .500 holes and used a 2.500 hole saw to make sides at once.






Bolted 5 of them together to confirm they were all the same. They fit real nice.






Rounded the opposite ends so they were all the same. 






I then put the straps on with the center section in the middle. Self aligns and holds it all in place. I cheated old school on the size. Took paper and cut them to the strap width. made a circle with 5 of the and found the center size that was a nominal of a hole saw.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 5, 2015)

Weld them all up. Then took it off and welded the backside too.






Now with just a 3/4" ratchet, I can move it around by myself easily. I'll probably shorten the extenders so they don't stick out too much. I wanted to go long at first to see exactly how much I needed to take off.






Makes for easy wheel turning too.






Making up the axle locks now. Want it safe for road travel so I'm using heavy box opened to a C to hold it in position. Cut them to length on the chop saw and plasma cut the bottoms open. 






Cleaned up the cuts and rounded the corners. I then decided to make up handles for ease of on and off. Got some 7/16" round stock and bent 2 of them up. 






Drilled the holes in the C's and drove the handles in. I set the depth with some scraps so it would be even on them.






I had countersunk the holes on the inside and didn't bother with making them the same length.






I just tack welded them and then cut the excess off with the angle grinder flush. I want this to lay flush on the axle box.






Then welded the rest home.


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## bryanr2 (Mar 6, 2015)

Kevin,
are you a Welder or Machinist by trade? if not, I bow to your genius! That is fantastic work.


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## brenndatomu (Mar 6, 2015)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> Wire cut a .760 square into each of them.


Wire cut? that's a new one on me...


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## boxygen (Mar 6, 2015)

Holy ****, now im really lost! Looks really good though!


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## Hddnis (Mar 6, 2015)

brenndatomu said:


> Wire cut? that's a new one on me...



Guessing he means EDM? EDM wire is fairly common way to cut a square hole through a part.



Mr. HE


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 6, 2015)

bryanr2 said:


> Kevin,
> are you a Welder or Machinist by trade? if not, I bow to your genius! That is fantastic work.


 
Farm operation for 11 years. Then started at a shop and have been running a manual surface grinder for 20 years now. Farm taught me fab skills and such.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 6, 2015)

brenndatomu said:


> Wire cut? that's a new one on me...


 As Mr He said, Wire EDM. Can hold .0002" tolerance on the cut size and is a standard in the trade. They can do some pretty wild stuff.. We just always say wire cut.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 6, 2015)

Ground them flush again.






Drilled a pilot hole in the C on the press then hand drilled it to the axle. Stepped up to 1/2 thread size and tapped it for that. Here it is all done. Simple and strong. 






I need to have keepers on the lift/support rails to keep them in place while the cylinder is lifting. I cut 4 pieces of strap to length and will attach them to the rollers after drilling the holes.






Cut 2 pieces of .875 stainless for rollers and gun drilled them to .500. Could have probably just used the .500 bolts but the larger diameter will roll easier. 






All the pieces are done and ready to try out. Lots of little things to do to make everything work nicer.






Just what the doctor ordered . just enough slop to prevent binding but also tight enough to keep the rollers on the rails when the cable is slacked.






I want to have wheels on the front as well so I can push it around as a level conveyor table. My Furnace house's floor is higher than the drive so I need to be able to adjust for things. Found this scissor jack and it has 25 inches of adjustment. 






This will also double as the jack when hitching/unhitching so doing 2 things with one. Need this to have some stability so 1/4" angle gets the call. Made it as wide as the conveyor and cut the ends too.






Got my surface grinder up and running again and for stuff like this it is a great cutting tool. Can cut straight and to the .001 of an inch. I'm notching the ends here to lay flush with the sides. Basically make everything self squaring.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 7, 2015)

Clean off the paint and it's ready for welding. I'll bevel the edges as well. 






Here you can see how nice of a cut it does.






Weld it all up and makes for a real strong base.






Drilled the holes for the casters and the mounting holes that are on the scissor jack. Ready to see if it all fits!






Fit fine but to get the max out of the jack I decided to relieve the ends about .750. Now I have to decide it position and work out all the variations/options of how I will use it. 






This is the best position for what I want. I will be making the hitch now as well. Wheels will be 8 inches off the ground clear up. Hopefully that is enough or I'll have to make them detachable. 






cut another cross brace out of tubing and welded it in. The Jack mount is about 3/8" from being flush with the tubing so I'll make a mounting plate out of some steel that thickness. 






Cut it out and marked some holes for the mount. Probably won't use these as they are in the way for what I have planned but easiest to get to at the moment. The hitch will come though there.






With the fold down table on there the hitch has to stick out a good bit. I also have to drop it some so I'll have some gussets and such to do. Just clamping everything for now till I'm happy with what I got.


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## Jakers (Mar 7, 2015)




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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 7, 2015)

For the attaching point I got some 1/2" flat stock that's the same width as the box. Need to bend it so I'm using the press. I mark the bend and then use a combo square to make sure it is at 90 degrees.






Quick and easy. This will be the top of the mount. I'll bend up another for the bottom next.






Cut it to length and drill an .875 hole. I then bent up the lower to match. I gave it 2 inches in the yoke in case I use the big tractor with it.






Got it all welded after checking it with tacks. I'll drill the lower hole and round the corners now.






Clamped back in pace and it's ready for gussets. Sticks a ways out there so it'll need some extra to keep it from bending and such. 






Making up a gusset and here is a little trick for straight cutting small pieces. Put a straight edge in your vise and clamp the piece to that. Keeps everything in the clear and easy to do.






Welded the tube on as well as the gusset. I bent up a piece that will go under as well but won't weld it on till all the gusset welding is done at tear down. It will have a stand in the middle and I'll stretch it then. Side bracing next.






Used a sliding T bevel to get the angle I wanted then made one cut. Laid them on top of each other and cut the other ends angles. 2 identical pieces that way.






Welded those on and that should take care of the side to side stress.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 7, 2015)

Beginning to take shape. Next I'll get the potential up and down stress/force taken care of.






Made up another piece of box tubing with angles to support the front and on the rear I drew up a pattern and cut a piece out of some flat stock.






The plasma really leaves a smooth cut as you can see. Very little work needed after cutting and barely warm to the touch.






All welded in and looks good to me. May add some gussets later but this will work for set up and rough build. 






Road transport and bouncing are what always cause problems so it's better to be safe than sorry.






With the adjustable front table it clears fine in the full down position. Don't think I'll ever use it there but it's nice to have options! 






Now I can check how my balance is doing. Front casters seem a little weak as they move a good bit with the scissor jack arms. I would not want the jack to fold under while moving. I think I'll make it a cross with 4 wheels. 






I have over 2 ft of front adjustment so I'll scoot it back as much as possible. This is so I can stick the conveyor in as much as I can before the wheels/axle hits something. 






Added the 2 extra wheels. Won't work when conveyor isn't level but don't plan on using it in that way so it should be a non issue. Put them on and looks/feels a lot better.


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## Gavman (Mar 7, 2015)

Im liking this thread way way better than your splitter build thread, that one way frankly a bit disappointing...

Not because the work wasn't awesome or the design or even the colour you chose, I still remember when I first opened it (splitter thread) and was amazed at the time and care that was evident, the only downside was you posted the whole build in one evening and didn't spread it over a few days or even weeks like this one... ha ha
All good though, and this is looking great already, looking forward to seeing it finished and happy to follow at the pace you are posting...

So when are you finding the time to work on it, during shop hours or in the evenings after??


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 7, 2015)

Gavman said:


> Im liking this thread way way better than your splitter build thread, that one way frankly a bit disappointing...
> 
> Not because the work wasn't awesome or the design or even the colour you chose, I still remember when I first opened it (splitter thread) and was amazed at the time and care that was evident, the only downside was you posted the whole build in one evening and didn't spread it over a few days or even weeks like this one... ha ha
> All good though, and this is looking great already, looking forward to seeing it finished and happy to follow at the pace you are posting...
> ...



Well, I didn't remeber that. After checking it started Aug 21 and ended Sept 5 according to the thread. Trust me, I'm not that good with a computer. Been working 7 days at the day job and got other stuff going on so it's dragging along. No rush by me, it'll get there. This has taken longer than the splitter! Thanks for the comments too. Building and figuring stuff out is the fun part for me. I normally get about 3 hrs a day on it. Yeah, I don't watch TV too much.


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## brenndatomu (Mar 7, 2015)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> As Mr He said, Wire EDM. Can hold .0002" tolerance on the cut size and is a standard in the trade. They can do some pretty wild stuff.. We just always say wire cut.


Man, you have some serious dood toys!


Kevin in Ohio said:


> Well, I didn't remeber that. After checking it started Aug 21 and ended Sept 5 according to the thread. Trust me, I'm not that good with a computer. Been working 7 days at the day job and got other stuff going on so it's dragging along. No rush by me, it'll get there. This has taken longer than the splitter! Thanks for the comments too. Building and figuring stuff out is the fun part for me. I normally get about 3 hrs a day on it. Yeah, I don't watch TV too much.


Lots of dood toys, and time...must not be a Mrs KiO...or little KiOs


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 7, 2015)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> Thanks for the comments too. Building and figuring stuff out is the fun part for me. I normally get about 3 hrs a day on it. Yeah, I don't watch TV too much.




Same here! I just done really get time to take pics while I work on stuff.

I've been with family in Maine for the last week or so. Have watched more TV in that time than I normally watch in several months.
I quickly realized I'm not missing much either.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 8, 2015)

brenndatomu said:


> Man, you have some serious dood toys!
> 
> Lots of dood toys, and time...must not be a Mrs KiO...or little KiOs



Wire machines are at a buddys work. We trade work on projects and such. Friends helping friends thing. Correct on the last 2 !


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## fordf150 (Mar 8, 2015)

nice work as usual


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 8, 2015)

Now I'll start on the lifting system. Had a coupon so I bought a 20 inch stroke 8 ton jack for $50.00. Hoped this one would work on it's side but no dice. Some brands do others don't so I'll have to do some tear down and see what is up.... or why it won't go up! 






Took off the piston/plunger and there were 2 passages. One for incoming, the other for outgoing. One check valve on incoming side and they use a washer to hold the ball in place. Gravity seats it after sealed piston draws fluid in by vacuum preventing the fluid from going back. BINGO!






Here's a close up. First time tearing into one of these and I can see why it doesn't work on it's side now. I just need the ball to seat after the fluid is drawn in.






I'll try adding a real light pressure spring between the ball and washer. Found a spring in the junk drawer that looks to be what I need.






Fit perfect in the hole and is right for the ball as well. So far so good. Put it all back together and it works! Tested it with a chain wrapped around and develops pressure just fine. He shoots, he scores.






With the jack looking like it'll work I'll start on the pivot mounts for it. Got a couple 1/2" scraps off the pile and laid out some lines. Double cheater bars here doing the cutting. 






Rounded the corners using an old patter from another project. saves me time as I'm not that good at freehanding things.






Got the 2 sides of the lower mount the same by touching up with the angle grinder. Then, While still together I drilled the .875 hole for the pivot pin. Cleaned and beveled the weld are. Next is the lower mount for the jack.






Back to the scrap pile again. Cut what I needed with the surface grinder and this is all the pieces. Basically going to trap it in position with one bolt so I can use the jack for other stuff if needed.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 9, 2015)

I again want this to be a bolt on affair to the conveyor so I can change if need be. Got some 3/8" angle and drilled them to line up with existing holes. Got some 5/8" strap to make the center section and drilled a 5/8" hole in the center for the jack's pin to go through. 






Bent the straps in the press and welded the inside of the bend. This stuff was heavy enough it pushed a pretty good divot in there. worked the 40 ton a little on those!






Attached everything on the conveyor and after it checked out, I tacked it all up. Then took it all apart and bench welded everything.






Here is one half of the mount. I'm going to trim the corners and probably add 2 straps in the middle to the lower framework so there will be no chance of it pushing this up.






Underside view with it installed. I'll make up some spacers for the center but washers will work for set up. I drilled the holes for the straps before putting them back on. You can see the corners have been cut as well here 






1/4" straps made up and put on. They have a bend at the top and a slight twist to get them to line up with the lower brace. Good to go now. 






Pardon the mess! It works! This will get me over the hump and honestly probably good enough for most of what I'll use it for. It's 6 1/2 ft high on the end and 25 inches on the other. I'm pretty sure the winch will take it up from there as I have a decent angle now on the lower arms. I'll have to release the jack's pin to do so.






One issue I do have is that it is light at the hitch. Need about 200 lbs more weight to the front at this moment. I'll get all the gussets in, install the winch again and see where I'm at. I'm also going to move the electric box to the bottom side. It weighs around 30 pounds and that's a doubler as I'm taking weight from one end and putting it at the other. 






Rollers look fine as well. They are at their lowest adjustment point here. Sitting on the hitch and that is fine by me.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 9, 2015)

Strengthened up the front arms to correct my error I did with the pivots. I'll put a gussets under as well.






The electrical box and wires were all routed on the outside of the conveyor and I need to take care of that when I swap ends. First up is to make up a schematic of the wiring before taking anything off.






I think I can just use the existing wiring and just switch it around. They are all the same gauge. I may swap some of the fittings to make easier on the wiring(less bends)






Found a good spot for the box and cut a piece of box with angled ends. This doubles as a strengthener to both the winch and the hitch too which is a bonus.






Left the existing backing plate on there and used holes that were all ready there. Just drilled the 2 holes in the box tubing and it's nice and solid.






On it's side but works out better for wire routing. You can see here it should be out of harms way now. I'm going to do the same with the switches but I have to make them easy to reach so it will be a trade off with that.






Cut some heavy angle for the switch box. Want to protect it from any damage. Welded that to a piece of strap to be bolted into existing holes.






Out of harms way but still easily reachable. Would like them on both sides but will run this for now. 






For the other ends switch I took 2 pieces of heavy angle and cut them equal length. Cut them on the surface grinder so they were a perfect pair. Then TIG welded them together.


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## the GOAT (Mar 10, 2015)

Very impressive.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 10, 2015)

Mounted the box as far as I could towards the end. I just used what length they had so no rewire or added cost. Just about right anyway so we'll see.






Wanted to go a little heavy on these in case of a roll off and such. Chain drive sticks out just a little farther than the switch so I mounted it sticking out at that position.






Now I am going to make some stops for the lift/safety arms. They will lock the arms in position by holding the rollers in place. This way I can also detach the cylinder at it's peak stroke to raise further with the winch. Hole sawed a hole off center in some strap.






After cutting it down the center I cut the angles on the surface grinder. I zero the wheel to chuck and downfeed. Shut off and rezero for wheel wear and finish. Normal it is in 2 pieces with a dead true edge.






One for each side done and next is to make the bottoms that these will be welded to.






Cut a couple of 1/4" straps and clamped a 3rd on top. I'm doing this for a drill pattern to transfer the holes to the rail. I'll save the pattern if I ever want to add a stop hole location in the future.






Drilled the 3/8" holes in the straps and got back to the keepers. I ground 2 slots in each piece to clear the 3/8" bolts head.. Used the surface grinder for this.






With both of them ground I will weld them to the straps.






Both of them done now so I will next drill the holes in the rail. I show you how I get holes to be true and save mistakes.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 10, 2015)

I slide the drill jig in place and line up the sides. Then C clamp it down. Self centering and where they need to be that way with no measuring.






Once they are drilled I get a thick piece of scrap and drill the same 1/*" size hole into it on the drill press. You can use an oak board in a pinch as well. 






Slip the drill through the drill guide and your hole and clamp it down. Now you have a guide that will keep everything straight and true. This works very well and I have been doing it for years when you can't get it to the press or have a Mag drill. Cheap and easy. Really good to do when drilling for tapping. 






Just where I want them!






This basically locks the rollers into position and not all the weight is on the jack while in transport.






Got some 1/2" scraps and made a pattern for the cable mount in the front. I laid them together to make them the same and drilled as before. Using a bolt for a pin. Heavy relieved the edge where it gets welded to the front hitch assembly.






Welded on here and turned out how I wanted. Hitch mount is plenty strong and a great place to pull from. 






Put in a few more cross braces on the front section. Need more weight anyway so no big deal.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 11, 2015)

Is there a way to put paddles on the belt?

I have seen a few conveyors like that used on processors. They didn't work very well if the wood is slippery... icy, raining, wet wood, etc.

Just something to consider.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 11, 2015)

ValleyFirewood said:


> Is there a way to put paddles on the belt?
> 
> I have seen a few conveyors like that used on processors. They didn't work very well if the wood is slippery... icy, raining, wet wood, etc.
> 
> Just something to consider.



The belt is pretty agressive and has "teeth" in it. Surprised me how well it does. I know I'll have to put the pieces end ways if it is real steep but I'm going to run it as is for a while anyway.. I'm getting too old for snow, rain days, I just work on other stuff till conditions are right. For my operation this will be mainly used to load/unload off and on truck and storage. We split where it falls so not planning on dragging out in the woods. Just wanted to have options in case I ever do change my current system. Just easier to do while you're working on it. The clearence around the belt underneath would have issues with paddles.


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## fordf150 (Mar 11, 2015)

The conveyor I modified for my processor is a rubber belt with the diamond pattern tad on it. We added pieces of 1"angle iron for cleats on it. Fastened them on with 5/16 carriage bolts. So far it's holding up good. We installed them every 2'which works good.


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## jags (Mar 11, 2015)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> Now I am going to make some stops for the lift/safety arms. They will lock the arms in position by holding the rollers in place.



Whew! I was on the edge of my seat till I saw this. I should have known better.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 11, 2015)

jags said:


> Whew! I was on the edge of my seat till I saw this. I should have known better.



I have learned over the years that it is never a bad thing to have some safety features on equipment. We had 60 ft augers that were lifted and supported by on the hydraulic cylinder. Even as a young guy I thought it looked like a good way to get crushed by walking under it when extended. 

I also learned to never trust hydraulic lines with your life. I unloaded semi afetr semi using a forklift on a tractor a ton at a time. I was moving a load into the barn stacking 3 pallets high and the line blew on the bucket. Instantly sending it all to the ground. If someone was in front or under it would have been lights out. I always remeber that when people want to help. As my former boss used to say, "It's only steel"


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 11, 2015)

This is for putting in the hitch hole when you have it clear on the ground. That way the hitch won't dig in the dirt and it'll slide around easier if needed. 






I just drilled a hole in the large round on the lathe and TIG welded the pin on the bottom so it was flush.






Lynch pin keeps it in place 






Drilled another piece of scrap and welded it to the side for a mount.






Quick, easy and handy.






Wanted to put some safety chains on it. I drilled an 1 1/4" hole through the gusset.






Got a short length of 1 1/4" round stock and drilled/tapped it for a 1/2" bolt. 






Then I welded it in the hole.






Bolted the chains on and good to go. Going to make up some hangers for the chains now so they don't drag around when not attached to a pulling vehicle.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 11, 2015)

Bent a couple U's as before and drilled the holes. Tapped them in and welded on the inside.






Keeps everything tidy and fast to do so.






Going to make a tool box holder next. Need the weight anyway and had a plastic tool box that was given to me so why not? Cut up some 3/8" angle iron for a surround and welded it up.






I'll bolt it on using the mounting plates for the lift arms. 1/4" bottom oughta hold it 






Box fits nice and will mount it underneath. Want to keep it out of harms way and flush. I'll have to make up something to hold the drawers shut too. 






Bolted it on and ready to put the box in.






Just how I wanted it, simple and clean. Came up with an idea for the hold in/drawer lock so that is next.






Got a heavy bar of stainless and drilled the hole close to the edge. I then reamed it to 7/16"






a pin I got some 7/16" stainless rod. I spun ground the ends and ground a slot over half way through to the exact size. Flatted the sides some on the long rod to make it basically a press fit. Holds itself together that way so it's easier to TIG weld.


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## bryanr2 (Mar 12, 2015)

can't wait for the video!


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 12, 2015)

Drilled the mounting holes and cut it off the bar. I then ground radii on it so it won't have hard corners to catch me. 






TIG welded the handle up. 






All done now and keeps everything in place. Pull the pin and the drawers open or you can pull the whole box out to get into the top compartment. 






I like it!






Moves like a dream on concrete. I think this feature will come in handy loading stuff and you can do fine adjustments without having to move the truck or trailer. Nice to have options. 






Finally got around to drilling out the 90 degrees axle locks. Using a 3/8" long bolt that I cut the threads off of. Just a simple drop in pin that way.






Had a big cast iron bar that has been laying around here for years. Decided to use it for front weight. Cut it in 3 pieces and will bolt these on as well. 






I'll add them near the front and the angles will follow the front mount to the hitch. I'll weld this plate in the center and bolt from underneath. This will hold them in place.






Drilled 2 holes in the center and drilled/tapped the center piece of cast as well. Adds over 100 pounds and one less thing to trip over in the scrap pile.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 12, 2015)

With the balance issue worked out took her for a test lift. With the tires like this more weight is to the front. 2 people hanging couldn't get it to even flinch. Higher up makes it even better. About 7 ft high at the lowest point here. 






With everything checking out fine it's time for disassembly and final welding. Supported the far end and raised the conveyor with the hoist on the other end after unbolting everything. 






I can then just simply pull the whole running gear out. This is why I made it bolt on. 






Need to add some gussets here and there too so I'll do that now. Plus I can roll it around/over for easier welding. Cheat when you can! 






Gussets all tacked in. Weight is a non issue on the front end so only helps.






All the welding done now so it's the pain of cleaning, smoothing to get ready for paint. Not my favorite part of any build, that's for sure. 

It's going to take a few days to get it all smoothed and cleaned. probably paint it in 2 sessions. Not spraying it, just brush and roller as I just want some kind of protection from rust on it. I'll post some paint and finish pics of it then.


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## Guswhit (Mar 13, 2015)




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## Erik B (Mar 14, 2015)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> With the balance issue worked out took her for a test lift. With the tires like this more weight is to the front. 2 people hanging couldn't get it to even flinch. Higher up makes it even better. About 7 ft high at the lowest point here.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Do you have a spot to put the rod holding your toolbox draws in when you are digging thru your tool box?
Erik B


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## Joesell (Mar 14, 2015)

Erik B said:


> Do you have a spot to put the rod holding your toolbox draws in when you are digging thru your tool box?
> Erik B



I hope so. Otherwise your going to have to scrap the whole thing!


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 14, 2015)

Erik B said:


> Do you have a spot to put the rod holding your toolbox draws in when you are digging thru your tool box?
> Erik B



Yes.


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## Erik B (Mar 15, 2015)

Glad to hear that. Sometimes it is the littlest things that make you hit your forehead with an 'aw shucks'


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 21, 2015)

Erik B said:


> Do you have a spot to put the rod holding your toolbox draws in when you are digging thru your tool box?
> Erik B



Here you go EriK. The rod fits into the same bracket. You just put the short end in it and it'll swing out of the way.






Going back together as we speak and will be done the first of the week.


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## Joesell (Mar 21, 2015)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> Here you go EriK. The rod fits into the same bracket. You just put the short end in it and it'll swing out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What kind of second rate build is this? You don't have a special "rod holder"? Your really cutting some big corners on this build!


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## Erik B (Mar 21, 2015)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> Here you go EriK. The rod fits into the same bracket. You just put the short end in it and it'll swing out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Great idea making it do double duty


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 24, 2015)

All cleaned up and started painting. I did one side of the main framework and some smaller pieces. dad came down to help as it takes a while with all the nooks and crannies. Used hardener in the paint so there was a time issue. 






Covers pretty good with a brush and mini roller. Would have been quicker with a sprayer but more of a mess and would have used a LOT more paint.






Hubs are getting grey to match the rims as close as I can.






Flip the main frame over and did the lowers as well. They were small enough we could flip them over and get it all done in one shot. Used a quart of paint to do all this plus the small pieces hanging.






On the bottom of the axle tube, in the center and inside the outer axle tube I'll put a coat of graphite paint. Sometimes called Slip Plate. Makes thing slide freely as it wears.






Here's the inside of the outer tube coated. with it. It's used on farm equipment a lot of times in grain wagons and such to keep stuff sliding easily.






You can get it at most Ag equipment dealers. Really useful stuff for a lot of different apllications. Just don't try to walk on it on a slope. You slide right down! 






Painting all done and put the caster all back on. With it easy to move now I'll slide it under the conveyor and start reassambling it.






On some of the pivots and where the rollers are I'm gun driiling the bolts and installing press in zerk fittings. Gun drilling the 5/8" bolt here. It a grade 5 so a sharp bit, oil and clean out strokes are needed.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 24, 2015)

Here's the press in zerk. I ream the hole to .245






Then just press it in with the arbor press. Quick and easy.






Before pressing in I crossdrilled through one side. You want to drill before the zerk is in so you can blow it out clean.






Loose assembling the lower framework here and slid the axle in. Out the hubs on as well.






This is the fun part of any build as it comes together quickly. So far so good. 






Put the tool box in and the keeper also doubles as a rod holder when you want in the box. Pat. Pending  






Cut all the spacer to length and ground some wrench flats on them. I guess they are wheel nut locks as well.






Close up of the 7/8" wrench flats.






Cut the as short as I could so they don't stick out any more than necessary. Being able to move/adjust with the 3/4" drive ratchet will be nice when by myself.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 24, 2015)

I got customs spinners on my ride now! :0 






Got it all painted and back together so here are some finished pics for you.


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## Erik B (Mar 24, 2015)

Looks really good. Now we need to see it in action.


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## Philbert (Mar 24, 2015)

I was waiting to see how you clean off all the rust and scale before painting, and you skipped right over that!

Wire brush (hand or powered)? Sand paper? Sand blast?

No primer paint?

Thanks.

Philbert


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 24, 2015)

This is at a level 36 inches high. It will go down to 30 inches but that is a little low for me but I wanted the adjustment, just in case.






This is at full extension with the jack. 7 ft at the end of the conveyor so that is fine for a dump trailer and normal truck. I think I'm going to make up an extension to slip on the end of the javck as it is just so easy to use. 






Now I'll show the axle slide. I remove the U collar that holds the knuckle straight. The 3/4" bolt holds it in place. 






Once off the outside part of the knuckle is the same as the inner. This will allow the whole thing to slide in flush. With the scissors jack and the hydraulic jack locked, you can take all the weight off the wheels.






Just push it all in flush. The casters are holding all the weight now but you can let it back down if you want the tires toi support as well.






Now I can back a truck up and load/unload from it's side. Will save so many steps.






Truck backed in and everything looks fine. Level height here is 54 inches.






Bad pic but you get the idea.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 24, 2015)

Side reach is kept at a minimum this way. If the wheels was sticking out I'd have to be a lot further away. You need the width for stability when moving and such.






Close up of oppisite side shows the amount of adjustment. 






Jack was almost all the way up and it looks like 56 inches is the max at level.

I'm going to make and extension so that the jack can take it on up. Started on that today and when I get that done I'll show max height and the wheels at swivel.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 24, 2015)

Philbert said:


> I was waiting to see how you clean off all the rust and scale before painting, and you skipped right over that!
> 
> Wire brush (hand or powered)? Sand paper? Sand blast?
> 
> ...



I went over everything with the little angle grinder shown before with 80 grit and a soft pad. I did this while taking all the weld splatter off and such. Not worth sandblasting to me as of the mess. Same thing with primer. I've had good luck with just straight to paint in the past but I don't let my equipment sit outside in the weather either. It's a tool and it will get used and scratched up in time.


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## zogger (Mar 24, 2015)

Another great build!

Never knew about the graphite paint, I tried just the graphite spray stuff on the fiskars but it wears off fast.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 24, 2015)

Put some sideboards on it so the wood doesn't fall off the sides.


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## tla100 (Mar 24, 2015)

Awesome build! I have been thinking about getting an old elevator. I have no where near the craftsmanship and ability you have. 

Yeah I found that graphite paint a while back, the forks on my skidloader were a pain to slide side-to-side. Sprayed that on and they slide like a dream now. Actually, too slippery. It wears nice, and remains slick for a long time. 

Oh, for your scissor jacks, trick I learned with camper jacks, put that socket on a cordless drill and you will be up and down in no time.


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## fordf150 (Mar 24, 2015)

I need/want to build a new conveyor for my processor but after watching this one come together I'm not going to post any pictures of my build....with my skills and equipment my build thread would resemble Sanford and Son compared to this


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 25, 2015)

For the ram extension I'm going to try a simple, slip on affair. End will have a hole to attach like the jack has. Weight will keep it in place. I started by gun drilling a large round to 1.25" all the way through. 






haft I'm going to use is 1.37" and the jack had a metric size. Didn't have the drill or reamer in the size and no boring bar. My friend Tony used a boring bar and put the in size for me. Works perfect and smooth as silk. Thanks Tony! 






I had a 1.37" stainless bar that was true so I used that. Drille a 5/8" hole for the upper pin.






Tried it out and it was fine so I TIG welded the mild and stainless together. 






Finished extension.






Rolled it out with the extension on and works fine.Still have a tilt on the roller table so that is nice.






With the extension in I have a reach of 9 ft to the bottom of the top roller.






If you look on the rail you will see the roller keepers. I jack it up and put them in. Then release till it rests on them. Then un pin the jack and put the extension in. Not the slickest but it was a comprimise as it's easier than the winch. I still have that as a backup too to go even higher if needed. 






Here's the keepers again.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 25, 2015)

There's another set of holes for the keepers too. Just less of a falll if something goes haywire or you want to move it with it up. 






Here I'm pivoting the wheels around using the long 3/4" rachet. REAL easy to do. 






Wheels in place and 3/8" pins are slip in to lock them into position. 






With the ratchet, the whole thing can be swung around in an arcc or straight sideways if needed. 






Closeup of the knuckle and the way the pin is.






Pins store in the keepers extra holes on the rail.

Well, That should be it. Too wet now for action pics and not planning on cutting anything soon as I have a bunch of other stuff that needs fixed. Conveyor plugged up my shop for a while so things have built up as they always do. No videos from me either as I don't have anything to take them. I

Been fun and I hoped you guys got something out of it. Should make things easier when it comes time for hauling in/out of the barns and sheds.


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## farmer steve (Mar 25, 2015)

sweet build kevin.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 25, 2015)

I bet your next mod be a hydraulic pump and putting motors on the wheels and steering.


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## USMC615 (Mar 25, 2015)

Super!!! One helluva build. Congrats.


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## Joesell (Mar 25, 2015)

ValleyFirewood said:


> I bet your next mod be a hydraulic pump and putting motors on the wheels and steering.



That sounds like one of those drivable airport conveyors.


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## MechanicMatt (Mar 25, 2015)

Kevin, I like the stops you made, redundency (sp), I figured you'd used the cable winch to back up the hydraulics but letting it rest on stops........much better. Nice build, very nice.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 26, 2015)

Thanks guys for the kind words. My Dad was always fixing things and making stuff out of nothing. Not because he wanted to, because he HAD to!

I owe a lot to him for teaching me stuff and encouraging me along the way. We still work together a lot of projects and enjoy it. I try to tell people to just get out in the garage and try it. You might be surprised what you can do.


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## KiwiBro (Mar 26, 2015)

ValleyFirewood said:


> I bet your next mod be a hydraulic pump and putting motors on the wheels and steering.


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## TonyK (Mar 26, 2015)

Kevin, I'm sure I don't have to point out that you that between the splitter and the conveyor you are only a saw rig and a drink holder away from having a kick butt processor. Great work as always.


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## MechanicMatt (Mar 26, 2015)

@TonyK , you ment beer holder right? Ohhh wait Coffee before noon and beer after holder


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## Joesell (Mar 26, 2015)

MechanicMatt said:


> @TonyK , you ment beer holder right? Ohhh wait Coffee before noon and beer after holder



If you get up early enough, you dont have to wait until noon!


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## MechanicMatt (Mar 26, 2015)

Yeah yeah yeah 5o'clock some where, hehehehehe


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## T. Mainus (Mar 27, 2015)

KiwiBro said:


>




Just got some pricing from those guys at Powersplit. That double splitter with built in conveyor starts at $24,000.00


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## KiwiBro (Mar 28, 2015)

T. Mainus said:


> Just got some pricing from those guys at Powersplit. That double splitter with built in conveyor starts at $24,000.00


Thanks.
That's about $16k more than I'd pay for it. 
Was more the self-driving splitter/conveyor combo I thought might be worth noting.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 28, 2015)

Ouch. Another ~$10-15k would buy a person a nice processor.

The problem with beer is the top doesn't go back on easy like a soda or water bottle. I put a cup holder on my processor


T. Mainus said:


> Just got some pricing from those guys at Powersplit. That double splitter with built in conveyor starts at $24,000.00


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## Joesell (Mar 28, 2015)

ValleyFirewood said:


> Just got some pricing from those guys at Powersplit. That double splitter with built in conveyor starts at $24,000.00




That's pretty steep for what it is. I bet they would sell lots I'd they could get it down below $14,000[/SIZE]


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## Joesell (Mar 28, 2015)

ValleyFirewood said:


> The problem with beer is the top doesn't go back on easy like a soda or water bottle.




The real problem with beer is that it gets all shook up. I have a cup holder on my mower. It's almost useless. I guess a gatorade fits, but who wants one of those when your mowing the grass?


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## bryanr2 (Mar 29, 2015)

enough with the pics already We need to see a video.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 30, 2015)

Decided I'd better make up a holder for the extension and jack handle so they wouldn't get misplaced. Decided on a design and used some scraps of stainless. Here's the clip end.






Turned a shoulder on a short round with enough slop that you can feed the extension over it. The other end goes through the welded pin and a clip holds it in place.






For the handle I drilled through the pin and bent a piece of 3/8" on a 90 degree. Drill it for some cotter pins so now it swivels out. Wanted it longer to insure it would slip off when straight.






Simply slip the extension on and pin.






Slide the handle on and swivel in and pin. Either one can be taken off in any order and they are both trapped in place. This keep my feeble mind form forgetting to bring them along. 

Can't post vids as I don't have anything to take them.


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## Beefie (Mar 30, 2015)

Thanks for taking the time to type this thread up and post the pictures Kevin. As always a grate build and enjoyed learning some new tricks in the metal fab.

Beefie


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