# Splitter photos?



## goblin (Nov 1, 2007)

Alright, I'd like to see more of those splitter photos please. Don't be shy. Anyone have any electric splitters or air/hydraulic or even hand (or foot) operated ones? Extra credit given to home-made units too.

Let's see um!


----------



## mga (Nov 1, 2007)

http://s89.photobucket.com/albums/k228/mga_01/


----------



## kellog (Nov 1, 2007)

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/kelsmi/IMG_1202.jpg

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/kelsmi/IMG_1206.jpg

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/kelsmi/IMG_1208.jpg

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/kelsmi/IMG_1209.jpg

http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/kelsmi/?action=view&current=MVI_0444.flv


----------



## mga (Nov 1, 2007)

interesting toy ya got there, kellog.


----------



## bowtechmadman (Nov 1, 2007)

Couple of my home made splitter


----------



## Patrick62 (Nov 1, 2007)

*On the 4th of July....*









I kind of enjoy makin' a fool out of myself! 

-Pat


----------



## goblin (Nov 2, 2007)

As the kids say, mad props to those of you with welding skills.

What is that, Kellog, a homemade electric splitter? 2 HP? Ram size?

(Also, a brief description of the splitter specs, etc., accompanying the photos would be helpful. I don't know about anyone else, but I like reading about the splitters I'm looking at too 

Great photos so far. Was that a riding splitter in the parade?


----------



## Butch(OH) (Nov 2, 2007)

My shop built splitter. Since this photo it has been much modified. The cylinder now has a push block and I added a hydraulically adjustable 4 way wedge, an auto cycle valve and removed one of the log lifters so I had more room to work around the thing. Also have added a truck loading elevator. Will try to remember the camera some day when we are using it. Runs off a tractor PTO. One less motor to keep running and an easy excuse to say no when people want to borrow it.

<IMG SRC=http://www.tractorshed.com/gallery/iphotos/i2939.jpg>


----------



## sawjo (Nov 2, 2007)

Posted here fairly recently already. This thing is hungry!


----------



## triptester (Nov 2, 2007)

This splitter has a 5" bore , 16 gpm 2-stage pump, and a 9 hp. Robins engine. A 15 gallon reservoir, log lift, and full suspension. The cylinder is in a lowered position for highway travel and locks in the raised position when in operation.

All loading ,splitting ,and re-splitting is done on the same side of the machine. All wood stays on splitter until split and re-split.

Receiver hitch was installed so face-cord loads could be split and hauled in one trip.


----------



## CaseyForrest (Nov 2, 2007)

Heres one I built a couple years ago.....






I may go after another one this winter.


----------



## mga (Nov 2, 2007)

i believe you can index that recoil case so that the pull cord is facing to the outside.

or, am i looking at the picture wrong?


----------



## kellog (Nov 2, 2007)

goblin,

Thanks for starting this thread. I love to see what people have put together also. The new and different ideas are great. Some of the fabrication work is amazing. What a talented group of guys we have on the Arboristsite.

If you want to learn more about the Kellog Impact Splitter see the following link, post #1.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=54622


----------



## woodchop (Nov 2, 2007)

Kohler 10 Hp, 22 GPM 2 stage pump, 5 x 30 Cylinder and hydraulic log lift


----------



## goblin (Nov 2, 2007)

Yes, some talented individuals alright. That tractor-powered unit is unusual, for instance. Most commercial splitters advertised as running from a tractor's PTO actually don't, they just use the tractor's hydraulics. That particular unit (ButchOH) looks like it actually uses the tractor's PTO shaft.


----------



## Ole Farmerbuck (Nov 3, 2007)

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/20TrAnSaM00/chain saw/P8020240.jpg


----------



## perkins6354 (Nov 3, 2007)

*Homebuilt splitter*

My homebuilt splitter running off a free diesel i got from a street sweeper, it's a lil big but it works.


----------



## goblin (Nov 4, 2007)

Love the (8N?) tractor. I think your splitter wins the award for 'most portable'. NOT!


----------



## mga (Nov 4, 2007)

goblin said:


> Love the (8N?) tractor. I think your splitter wins the award for 'most portable'. NOT!



heh...that way no one gets to borrow it.

i haven't seen mine for over 6 months now.


----------



## rx7145 (Nov 4, 2007)

perkins6354 said:


> My homebuilt splitter running off a free diesel i got from a street sweeper, it's a lil big but it works.



That's a cool set up. How many RPM does the engine run?


----------



## perkins6354 (Nov 4, 2007)

*engine rpm*



rx7145 said:


> That's a cool set up. How many RPM does the engine run?



I'm not too sure, I think it is at 3/4 throttle. I have no tach on it and I usually just wedge a piece of wood under the throttle lever until it sounds good and go from there. I really need to change the pulley setup so I can just let the thing idle, but then again all changes cost money unless I find some more free parts.


----------



## Hansson (Nov 6, 2007)

This one is cool






http://user.tninet.se/~onv570l/emeco_vedklipp.htm


----------



## Patrick62 (Nov 6, 2007)

*Overkill??*

Is the diesel sweeper motor the equivilant of driving finish nails with a sledge hammer?? :jawdrop: 

Atleast it doesn't have to move often!

-Pat


----------



## redprospector (Nov 6, 2007)

mga said:


> heh...that way no one gets to borrow it.
> 
> i haven't seen mine for over 6 months now.



Yep, my son borrowed mine in December 06. I don't know if I'd recognize it any more. 
Someday it will break down and I'll get it back. 

Andy


----------



## Greenthorn (Nov 7, 2007)

Still running!

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41767&d=1166316776

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41881&d=1166457443


----------



## arborterra (Nov 8, 2007)

*My splitter*

6 inch cylinder. 28 gpm 2 stage pump. 6 way wedge.


----------



## beaverb01 (Nov 9, 2007)

*My Timberwolf TW-5*

Sorry I didn't get more pics, but it's hard to hold the camera and run the tractor/splitter at the same time. The tractor picked up the pieces and set them on the lift platform or directly on the splitter, depending on which was safer/easier. Wood is from lightning-struck white oak that I felled about 1 week prior.

Beaver


----------



## turnkey4099 (Nov 11, 2007)

A few pics of my homebuilt. This is #7 and last of a batch we built in a farm equipment manufacturer's shop. They improved as we went but there is one glaring mistake that I will point out.






Used 3 1/2" sq tube for the armature with 4" slip tubing (no ridge inside) for the slide. That was the stuff we used for the tongues and frames. As you can see, we had to add a 2" tube underneath to take the 'give' out of the 3 1/2" tube under load - it would deflect quit a bit without it.

Pump is unknown gallonage but I suspect in the mid teens. Mine is painted over so I can't read the plate. Motor is Briggs 6x1 reduction 5 or 6 hp (305 cc). Those were the things we used to build the hydro power packs on the equipment. Cycle time is not fast but it will keep one guy hopping feeding it.
Throat is 19 1/2". I was aiming for a 21" but somehow my figures slipped somewhere in calculating the set up. The ram is a 4 x 18". The Push plate does not contact the wedge - that was intentional. Any thing that doesn't split all the way, just back off the ram in insert a chunk of split wood behind the block. Happens rarely.

Big difference between mine and the previous 6 is location of axle. Way aft to keep the running gear out of the way of the operator. Very nice that way but the tongue weight is high. I use a trailer dolly to shift it around the work area.






Shot of the wedge with "wings". That works well, the blade begins the split and the wing forces the wood apart. Rarely have to run all the way through except on knots or stringy. The "knife edge" will only contact the wood as it enters the block (except for knots) - once the split begins, it runs ahead of the edge. That is true of any splitter, even one without 'wings'. Were I to do it over, I would make the 'blade' portion longer and start the 'wings' back further. 






And there is the screw-up. I still, after 20 years, can't understand how we were so stupid to build them that low. I am 'sorta' planning to cut it apart with my 4" grinder (not all that much weld to do) and hire a guy with portable welder to come and raise it 9". I also need to either replace or rebuild the engine - it is pretty well clapped out. I do have an 11 hp Briggs that has had only a few hours use on it. May use it.

For anyone planning one I recommend:

Wings on the wedge but it does complicate putting 4-way on it.
Build it so the working surface is about waist height.
Keep the axle/wheels out of the operator's way. I don't think that is reasonable possible with a 'tip-up' model though.
*Put in/out feed table on it!!!*

My cost was that of the hydraulic hoses/fittings. I suspect the company had quite a bill on it. 

Harry K


----------



## JAL (Nov 11, 2007)

It's not a hydraulic splitter but it works.:hmm3grin2orange: 

View attachment 59683


----------



## drmiller100 (Nov 11, 2007)

why not just put taller tires on it???? redo the spindles????


----------



## turnkey4099 (Nov 11, 2007)

JAL said:


> It's not a hydraulic splitter but it works.:hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> View attachment 59683



I've seen ads for commercial ones built that way. 

Harry k


----------



## turnkey4099 (Nov 11, 2007)

drmiller100 said:


> why not just put taller tires on it???? redo the spindles????



Would have to be some huge tires. What are on it are, I think, 14" to raise
9" would take an 18" larger overall diameter.

I also need to off set the axle some to get a bit more working room around the motor...especially if I replace it with a bigger motor. As it is, I can barely fit a very small funnel in to add oil - got too focused on 'tree' vice 'forest' while building it.

Harry K


----------



## Rleonard (Nov 15, 2007)

My Splitter that has gone thru 4 generations. The lights are a welcome addition with the short days we have now.

Bob


----------



## fixitguy75 (Nov 15, 2007)

I like the idea of putting lights on the splitter. Never really thought of that. Great work!


----------



## mga (Nov 20, 2007)

drmiller100 said:


> why not just put taller tires on it???? redo the spindles????




like this one?:






http://cgi.ebay.com/Gas-Log-Splitte...ryZ29520QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## goblin (Nov 20, 2007)

mga said:


> like this one?:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



That's a hell of a unit there.


----------



## mga (Nov 20, 2007)

true.

it looks well built, sturdy and designed nice and "clean".

but, those wheels............


----------



## FarmerSid (Nov 21, 2007)

Here's mine. It splits in both directions. The wedge is not currently installed.


----------



## allthegross (Nov 25, 2007)

goblin said:


> Alright, I'd like to see more of those splitter photos please. Don't be shy. Anyone have any electric splitters or air/hydraulic or even hand (or foot) operated ones? Extra credit given to home-made units too.
> 
> Let's see um!



not home made but sure makes it easy wood pile is all white oak covered in cherry


----------



## jags (Nov 26, 2007)

This is my homebuilt. 8HP briggs electric start, 16 gpm 2 stage pump, 5" x 24" ram, electric log lift and removable working table.


----------



## kellog (Nov 26, 2007)

jags,

Very nice job with this splitter. I really like the log lift. 

I have a very similar design on paper for a log lift for my impact splitter. Since I use 110v to run the splitter, I would use a 110v winch. I assume yours is a 12v winch. I have the winch at the end of the splitter because the wedge moves in my design. Otherwise a very similar design.

Thanks for posting the pics.


----------



## jags (Nov 26, 2007)

kellog said:


> jags,
> 
> Very nice job with this splitter. I really like the log lift.
> 
> ...



Thanks kellog. I have followed your splitter threads as well. The lift is powered by a 1500# 12V winch from HF. Just make sure a power in/out is used so that you can control the speed when you are dropping the log lifter back down. Never met a 20" long log that it didn't lift easily (even at 30 dia.). I have a 12V deep cycle battery for starting and the log lift. Have never wore down the battery in a days work, no matter how many times I start the engine or run the lift (the charging system from the engine does not work).


----------



## kellog (Nov 26, 2007)

Farmersid,

Very clean fabrication. You must be meticulous with your work. Don't forget to post pics or video of the finished product working.


----------



## kellog (Nov 26, 2007)

jags,

thanks for the design guidance. I probably won't get to building it until next year but as I do I may call on you for technical assistance if necessary. Sounds like you have that slick design mastered.


----------



## pacman (Dec 26, 2007)

*My Crew*

Me my saw and splitter .


----------



## mga (Dec 26, 2007)

pacman said:


> Me my saw and splitter .



hey, pacman...what do you do with all those cars back there?


----------



## pacman (Dec 26, 2007)

*cars*



mga said:


> hey, pacman...what do you do with all those cars back there?



They belong to my uncle , on his farm . I do all my wood out there .


----------



## gonecountry (Dec 26, 2007)

A pic of my father's tractor mounted splitter. Homemade by him.


----------



## iCreek (Dec 31, 2007)

*Just getting started*

Here is a few pics of our Splitter, ordered the 4" Northern Tool kit and going to mount it on a bracket to attach to a Case Backhoe. We had an old splitter not used in 15 years, so this new project will utilize the beam and stop plate. My father in law is good with welding, machinist type work, he has a few hours in what we have so far.... I will post some pics as we attach it to the backhoe, as I understand we will control from the cab hydrolics using the pump on the backhoe.

We were looking at a Wallenstein WX350 verticle three point model, but then decided to try the Nothern Tool route.


----------



## rx7145 (Dec 31, 2007)

Looks good. Let me know how you like the four way. I'm thinking about getting it for my splitter.


----------



## Ken05 (Jan 1, 2008)

My son and I spent New Years day adding a production table to an old John Deere splitter I found for $200. Everything used to make the table was stuff laying around the shop. We used the southern pine 4x4's because of the light weight, strength and of course no cost. The big gaps in the table allow all the crap to fall through and the wood stays handy.


----------



## Ken05 (Jan 1, 2008)

next set


----------



## iCreek (Jan 1, 2008)

Ken05 - That is a good idea, keeps the split halves within reach if you want to split them again. Looks like you and your son had a good day!! I saw a $60 metal table someone mentioned in another thread on eBay, user 33Flame, same concept.

We also worked New Years day in the shop, high of 23 outdoors, but with the wind it felt like 7. I should have 'in use' pictures this weekend with the splitter attached to the Case backhoe (it will pin on instead of the rear bucket and sit sideways). We got everything measured and tack welded with the mig. We should be splitting Saturday!

_photo disclaimer: welding pic shot from the waist, not looking through the viewfinder... lucky action shot..._


----------



## triptester (Jan 1, 2008)

iCreek,

With the splitter mounted on the backhoe I quess you won't be needing a log lift.

Looking good.


----------



## thenorth (Jan 3, 2008)

this is our splitting area..
splitter under cover, bucking table attached......

the sawmill is inside the blue covered area.






John


----------



## City Slicker (Jan 5, 2008)

*Good Pics!*

Did'nt know John Deere made a log splitter.


----------



## boostnut (Jan 5, 2008)

City Slicker, John Deere doesn't build splitters. The "John Deere" splitter in the above pics was acutally built by Didier Mfg. They made splitters sold under a number of brands including Deere, Sears, Montgomery Wards.......


----------



## Sawmill (Jan 5, 2008)

I don't have a picture right now' but I use a Woodmizer LT 40 HD sawmill to split mine. I put the log up and center the blade on it and make the first cut then rotate the log 1/4 turn and make the second cut these 2 cuts take just a couple of mins. I the cut the poles to the length that I want and stack the on pallets to be hauled to the woodshed.


----------



## Ken05 (Jan 5, 2008)

Didier eh? cool info there Boostnut. Yeah, it is a pretty generic machine. Looks like the base models they sell for $999 now.
But, I put a green piece of green 24" red oak - with knots - on the old thing and it split it. Start in from the edge of course.
Plus it's cool that it says JD on the side.


----------



## thenorth (Jan 5, 2008)

we worked today,, and done approx 4 face cord.ready for the 2009 winter.
John


----------



## iCreek (Jan 5, 2008)

*Backhoe splitter finished*

We tried out the Backhoe splitter today, had great results, here is a post with Video and Picture links.....

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=59485


----------



## gonecountry (Jan 5, 2008)

Thats sweet. :rockn:


----------



## cabinman (Jan 5, 2008)

thenorth said:


> we worked today,, and done approx 4 face cord.ready for the 2009 winter.
> John



John nice setup,.. Is that table on the left where you block the rounds,?.Is the saw mounted,? How do you advance the logs to be cut? thanks E,J


----------



## blackdoggy (Jan 5, 2008)

Damn your really really cheating there:censored: . I am surprised you don't have a quick attach there for that splitter and a grapple to load it all with. But it looks great I wish I could have something that neat


----------



## thenorth (Jan 6, 2008)

cabinman,, 
yes the table is my bucking table,,, the saw is mounted to the table via a 1.25'' square stock, it pivots and slides up and down.... the table is covered in sheet metal, therefore, its easy to slide the log along to the next cut, i then let it roll down the ramp to the splitter, there linda takes over, splits and loads into the pallets,,3/4 face cord per pallet


thanks
john


----------



## super3 (Jan 6, 2008)

*info*

anyone ever use a "LickitySplitter"?


----------



## Dapper Dan (Jan 6, 2008)

The back hoe splitter is the best "no work" splitter I've ever seen!

MINE


----------



## sdnomad (Jan 31, 2008)

*Pics of my splitter just finished this week.*


----------



## Rowan (Jan 31, 2008)

8" structural steel for beam with heavy 3" angle iron welded on the top to make the slide.....

I've got $900 into it with a new 5hp honda, and 2 stage pump.

Not a power house but it works well for my needs.


----------



## eric_271 (Feb 9, 2008)

A little progress on mine. I have to weld the ends in the tank and build a table for both sides clean and paint. Engine is 17hp qs kohler, 5'' cylinder and 22gpm barnes pump. This will be the last splitter I build and should last my boy most of his life.


----------



## kevin j (Feb 9, 2008)

sdnomad: the suction hose looks like it might be a bit tight radius, just starting to collapse inward. maybe the light on the pics. if you feel slight bulges on the outer jacket on the inside of the bend, its too tight.

and a pressure gauge, yes! wish more people did that or at least put the test qc ports. so many 'it don't work' questions are clear with a pressure reading.

not being picky, I just design hydr for a living and notice the small details.

very nice unit.

kcj


----------



## blackdoggy (Feb 9, 2008)

My friend there forgot to mention you should also try to rotate your filter assembly down. Rowan are you going to utilize your 8X8 beam for additional hydraulic fluid storage?


----------



## cabinman (Feb 9, 2008)

*Suction hose*



kevin j said:


> sdnomad: the suction hose looks like it might be a bit tight radius, just starting to collapse inward. maybe the light on the pics. if you feel slight bulges on the outer jacket on the inside of the bend, its too tight.
> 
> and a pressure gauge, yes! wish more people did that or at least put the test qc ports. so many 'it don't work' questions are clear with a pressure reading.
> 
> ...



Kevin, I was wondering about the flow of that hose as well, I thought It was a Larqe radius, and should flow quite well, My question to you is, Whats better,? If he used a 90 degree fitting on the pump and then a shorter hose,? often times there aint room for that big loop,.Id like to know your opinion on the flow factor as pictured in the pic versis, using ONE nighty on the pump, I also think that might not be a true suction wire wound hose, either way, He did a fantistic job building that splitter, T,C, E,J,


----------



## triptester (Feb 9, 2008)

kevin j, 
For the splitter in the attached pic the manufacturer claims 28 tons with 4 to7 second cycle time with 9hp. engine. The pump appears to be a single stage pump.
Their specs,
Honda engine 9 hp 
Drive multiplier producer 
Self-propelled 
Splitting lenght 18 to 26 inches 
according to model. 
Table 24 x 48 inches 
Cycle 4 to 7 seconds 
Machine drive - 28 tons 

My question is how can they get that tonnage and cycle time with only a 9 hp. engine.


----------



## cabinman (Feb 9, 2008)

*nighty degree fitting*



cabinman said:


> Kevin, I was wondering about the flow of that hose as well, I thought It was a Larqe radius, and should flow quite well, My question to you is, Whats better,? If he used a 90 degree fitting on the pump and then a shorter hose,? often times there aint room for that big loop,.Id like to know your opinion on the flow factor as pictured in the pic versis, using ONE nighty on the pump, I also think that might not be a true suction wire wound hose, either way, He did a fantistic job building that splitter, T,C, E,J,



Kevin the Question was , how much does (ONE) 90 degree fitting affect the flow versis , a large loop as pictured, Is there charts that have this data, Or do you have flow test equipment ?, Id like to find charts with flow data, Thanks E,J,


----------



## cmetalbend (Feb 9, 2008)

My bread and butter unit.


----------



## cabinman (Feb 9, 2008)

*Who*



triptester said:


> kevin j,
> For the splitter in the attached pic the manufacturer claims 28 tons with 4 to7 second cycle time with 9hp. engine. The pump appears to be a single stage pump.
> Their specs,
> Honda engine 9 hp
> ...


 Trip Who builds that splitter? is that the one Ive seen with dual stations, T,C, E,J,


----------



## blackdoggy (Feb 9, 2008)

I will answer some of these questions for Kevin since he is working.


triptester said:


> My question is how can they get that tonnage and cycle time with only a 9 hp. engine.


Most manufactures over rate there tonnage and speed a good way to understand what each part can do is use a simple online calculator. http://www.baumhydraulics.com/pages.php?pageid=4



> how much does (ONE) 90 degree fitting affect the flow versis , a large loop as pictured, Is there charts that have this data


Usually one 90 degree fitting will not affect flow in any significant way, Yes there are charts out there as well as system design software.
http://productsearch.machinedesign.com/calculators/loss-in-fluid-lines


----------



## kevin j (Feb 9, 2008)

what he said.....


FORCE & HP
Tons is only pressure times cylinder area. You can get 100 tons with a porta power, but no speed, if the cylinder is big enough.

Closed side area is ( (bore diameter) x (bore diameter) x 3.14159) / 4
Rod side, same calcs for the rod steel area, then subtract for net area.


How they get the tons? The box store units often rate at 3000 psi, when the relief valve in the valve is set at 2500 psi, and the cylinder is rated for 2500 psi. To me, that either indicates gross ignorance, or gross dishonesty.

At 2500 psi, with no back pressure on rod side,
4 inch bore = 15.7 tons, 4.5 bore = 19.9 tons
5 inch bore 24.5 tons 6 inch bore = 35 tons.


at 3000 psi, of course everything is 3000/2500 or 20% more force.


Speed is flow (gpm) divided by area. Bigger cylinder moves slower.

Horsepower is flow times pressure. A small motor will move 100 gpm but no pressure, or 1 gpm at high pressure. 

Hp is (gpm ) x (psi) / 1714 theoretical, or divide by 1500 to account for losses, plus its easier to remember.

So the two stage pump is high flow, low pressure = hp. Then large section unloads, and small section is low flow, high pressure = same hp.

I split pretty small wood, usually 24 inch maximum, and usually mobile, not at a wood lot. So my main complaint is always speed, not force. For my usage 4 inch is plenty big, and light enough to move easily. I want lots of hp not for tons, but to get fast speeds while pushing some good pressures.

So, you can have a 3.5 hp 50 ton unit, or a 20 hp 10 ton unit- Cylinder and pressure are force, while engine and pump are hp.


ELBOW
There are charts and formulas, but in most mobile equipment, the variables of temperature, viscosity, exact type of fittings, etc make it a moot point. Usually design for suction size of pump or larger. Pump mfr tend to be optimistic. Although rated pump at 3600 rpm, the suction may be high at that speed with cold oil.

A screwed in 90 fitting is much higher pressure drop than a ‘bent stem’ 90 where it makes a sweeping bend from tubing or hose end.

Given the choice, better to have a 90 at the tank, and straight into the pump, as the flow into the gearset is less turbulent, but at these flows and hours of use no big deal. 

Your hose is good routing for flow. Even a bent stem 90 out of the tank will have more restriction than straight fittings and smooth hose. Bent stem maybe equal roughly 3 feet of hose, a sharp 90 maybe equal 5 -10 ft of hose. Just off top of my head.

If you need a 90 at pump, not the end of the world, but a bent piece of tubing would be better. Another option is upsizing the elbow and hose, but not really necessary. 

These are ‘good practice’ things but not the kiss of death. Unless you have a half inch suction hose, etc. 

BTW, restricted suction does not decrease pump flow unless it is truly into blockage or cavitation. Just high vacuum conditions does not decrease pump flow, it is positive displacement after all. With enough blockage and serious cavitation, yes, pump flow is reduced but it will be very noisy. 

kcj


----------



## triptester (Feb 9, 2008)

Cabinman, 

Those splitters are made under two different brands .

http://www.timberdevil.com/products.html

http://www.powersplit.com/


----------



## cabinman (Feb 9, 2008)

*Big Bang Therory*



kevin j said:


> what he said.....
> 
> 
> FORCE & HP
> ...



Kevin, Theres tooooo much Big Bang Therory there, and not enough usable imformation, The Question was what If I had to use a nighty at the pump, how much would it affect the flow/vacume,. after going around you said it wood be better to have the ninty at the tank, instead of the pump,!!!!There are many, MANY options when plumbing your tank, Most people BUY there pump, instead of building it, AND there arent many options when hooking up the suction line,.Thats why I asked the simple question, of (at the pump) how would it affect flow, I asked you about a flow chart, and after a big bang speach,. you told me charts dont work on heavy equipment,. because they arent used in a controled enviroment,...REALLY,!!! As far as your claim that restricted flow on the suction side Dosnt affect the PUMP unless its in a cavitation mode is BS, But thanks anyway T,C, E,J,


----------



## blackdoggy (Feb 9, 2008)

Christ cabin man stuff it Kevin is a EXPERT he knows what he is talking about and if you can not wrap your mind around his answers or my answers (which are very similar) then stop asking the questions.


----------



## cabinman (Feb 9, 2008)

*Expert*



blackdoggy said:


> Christ cabin man stuff it Kevin is a EXPERT he knows what he is talking about and if you can not wrap your mind around his answers or my answers (which are very similar) then stop asking the questions.



And now YOU are a Hydraulics Expert,....LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOOLOOLO


----------



## blackdoggy (Feb 9, 2008)

I never said I was but I do understand the basics and system design isn't that difficult it's all a matter of understanding basic fluid power theories and design.


----------



## kevin j (Feb 9, 2008)

Kevin, Theres tooooo much Big Bang Therory there, and not enough usable imformation, 
****sorry, what i am trying to present is understanding, not just recipe answers to the single question at hand. Everyone elses situation is slightly different, the exact answer won't apply to them, but if they understand the concept, they can figure out an answer.
The first post was answer to question of hp and tons and pump.

ou said it wood be better to have the ninty at the tank, instead of the pump,!!!!There are many, MANY options when plumbing your tank, 
****not quite my response. Better to have straight both places. Second best is bent stem 90, third best is sharp 90. and always best to have striaight at the pump and 90 at the tank if necessary.

Most people BUY there pump, instead of building it, AND there arent many options when hooking up the suction line,.
****but they do need to know WHICH size pump to buy, which ports they need for their application, and understand why they picked it. 

Thats why I asked the simple question, 
****in enginering, there are usually no simple answers. Its all about the compromises: hp vs force vs. cost vs. weight vs. production vs. maintenance and reliability, etc etc. 


of (at the pump) how would it affect flow, I asked you about a flow chart, and after a big bang speach,. you told me charts dont work on heavy equipment,. because they arent used in a controled enviroment,...REALLY,!!! 
*****yup. does not effect flow, only pressure drop. If you can give me the operating temperature, viscosity, viscotiy index, specific gravity of fluid, and all dimensions of the fittings, surface roughnesses, etc. But I don't even use those in the day to day design world. Generally, shoot for 2 to 4 feet per second speed in the suction line. slower is better. Straighter is better. His hose loop is nice, just need to make sure is doesn't collapse on startup with high vacuum.


retricted flow on the suction side Dosnt affect the PUMP unless its in a cavitation mode is BS, 
**** Affects the PUMP (even light cavitation can destroy it), but not the pump FLOW, unless it is serious cavitation. another poster here had a suction filter on, was getting 15 second cycles. removed it got 9 seconds. Because it was truly in serious cavitation and sucking vapor. Once he reduced the pressure drop below the 'net positive suction head' required by the pump (hows that one!) and is pumping liquid, the gpm does not change at all. Test the cycle time of your gear pump system. Increase the suction hose from 1 inch to 4 inches inside diameter. Will it change flow? nope, only pressure drop. 
Flow in a positive displacement pump is pump size times rpm it turns. Unless it cavitates, that's the way it is.....


Here's another topic to stir up conversation:
-Pumps produce pressure True or false...
-Pumps produce flow True or false...

I do appreciate the feedback,

kcj


----------



## triptester (Feb 9, 2008)

Pumps produce pressure -false

Pumps produce flow- true

Resistance to flow produces pressure.

Did I pass


----------



## blackdoggy (Feb 9, 2008)

Yep you got it.


----------



## cabinman (Feb 9, 2008)

*positive feed back*



kevin j said:


> Kevin, Theres tooooo much Big Bang Therory there, and not enough usable imformation,
> ****sorry, what i am trying to present is understanding, not just recipe answers to the single question at hand. Everyone elses situation is slightly different, the exact answer won't apply to them, but if they understand the concept, they can figure out an answer.
> The first post was answer to question of hp and tons and pump.
> 
> ...



Absolutily,.. better than watchin TV,. Kevin The point Iam makin here is Get to the point,..We are not building a rocket here,..And dont want to know how to build one,...If some one asks a simple question, That 1 or 2 lines will answer, and they have to read three paragraphs to get your responce,that still dosnt answer there question, is frustrating, .period You said,..EVERY ONE elses situation is slightly different,...The exact answer wont apply to him,..Case and point,..We are talkin about a 90 degree fitting in a suction line,..Dosnt matter weather we are all using the same hydraulic fluid,...Your second response,..It matters how you spec your hydraulic pump, ETC What the H--l, does a 90 degree fitting in the suction line have to do with specking your hyd pump,? The more I read, the less I learn, about the simple question,.. Its like asking a polished politition a direct Question, And they dance, waltz, and talk about the cost of tea in china, global warming, But never answer your question,.Your last equasion, you mentioned a guy that posted, and he gained a faster cycle speed, when he removed his filter of the suction side, he went from 15 sec to 9 sec,...If I remember correctly,..that was the splitter that was assembled wrong from the factory,..Hardly relevent to a 90 degree fitting in the suction line,..Thanks for posting E,J,


----------



## blackdoggy (Feb 9, 2008)

:censored: Quiet cabin man your starting to make your self look bad :taped:


----------



## cabinman (Feb 9, 2008)

*Experinced*



blackdoggy said:


> :censored: Quiet cabin man your starting to make your self look bad :taped:



Iam actually reading your responce with a measureable leval of respect,...YOU are vary experinced in that field,.......


----------



## boostnut (Feb 9, 2008)

cabinman, you're doing a fine job of making yourself look like an ass. I, for one, appreciated the lengthy explanation to your question. I'll assume most of us reading this thread are here to compare notes and learn a few details about building a splitter. 

Kevin, thanks for the info, answered a couple of my questions before I got a chance to ask them.


----------



## cabinman (Feb 9, 2008)

*novels*



boostnut said:


> cabinman, you're doing a fine job of making yourself look like an ass. I, for one, appreciated the lengthy explanation to your question. I'll assume most of us reading this thread are here to compare notes and learn a few details about building a splitter.
> 
> Kevin, thanks for the info, answered a couple of my questions before I got a chance to ask them.



Your probably a big fan of fiction novels 2, I for one like to get to the point, instead of going around in circles,..T,C, E,J,


----------



## kevin j (Feb 9, 2008)

I think best to get back to the topic at hand: pics of splitters.

Those who want to understand and learn will have to wade through my explanations. Cm does have a valid point: i get lengthy, BUt my goal is not to answer just the question at hand else I would be answering q's forever. If I can explain why, then you solve your own problems next time.

For recipe card fixes, sorry, not my job.

Give a man a fish, he can eat for a day.
Teach a man to fish, and he spends all the grocery money on beer and leeches. (and hydraulic parts and saws)

kcj


----------



## cabinman (Feb 10, 2008)

*hey kevin*



kevin j said:


> I think best to get back to the topic at hand: pics of splitters.
> 
> Those who want to understand and learn will have to wade through my explanations. Cm does have a valid point: i get lengthy, BUt my goal is not to answer just the question at hand else I would be answering q's forever. If I can explain why, then you solve your own problems next time.
> 
> ...



Sorry If I got a little Inpaitent, I was raised to Get to the point, and I overlook alota things as a result, I get down your way now and then ,..Maybe I can buy you a Beer and shoot the chit with ya T,C, E,J,


----------



## cabinman (Feb 10, 2008)

*pics*



Green(t)horn said:


> Still running!
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41767&d=1166316776
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41881&d=1166457443



more pics please


----------



## Sprig (Feb 10, 2008)

My take>
Pumps do produce pressure (by utilizing resistance) if the intake is bigger than the outlet, as the speed of it is increased too, thats why they're call pumps, not sucks.
Pumps produce flow.

No idea if I are right or not, but thank you KCJ for your informed and concise explainations, until reading them I had a pretty feable grasp of hydrodynamics (?) but think I am now getting the big picture, a good learning curve 
Information like this is priceless outside a classroom imho.




Serge


----------



## cmetalbend (Feb 10, 2008)

*lol*

Oh I am so staying the he** out of this one. lol


----------



## boostnut (Feb 10, 2008)

Here is my modified version of an old Didier Mfg splitter (they made these units 20+ years ago for Sears, John Deere and a number of others). I reused the beam, cylinder, wheels and tires, engine and pump combo and the rest is pretty much history. After cutting the stationary wedge off of the end of the beam I welded it to the push plate so, yes, those components were also original. Man what a difference! Yesterday I ran it for the first time and learned that this thing will wear a guy out in a hurry. This design beats the chit out of the original "lowrider" Didier version. If you've got a splitter (homemade or otherwise) and the working height isn't comfortable do yourself a BIG favor, stop where you're at and make some changes. Once you get the beam height correct you will be worn out long before your back starts screaming at you.


----------



## eric_271 (Feb 10, 2008)

A few more. Most of my money was spent on the cylinder, rated for constant 3000 psi and the pump. Engine came out of my old toro mower and the company I work for gave me most of the steel and paid for the hyd, lines and fittings. Close to $400 just for lines and fittings, saved me a lot.


----------



## boostnut (Feb 10, 2008)

Eric, nice job on that splitter, definitely built for a lifetime (or 2). Looks like you need to add an aux. cylinder to pivot the beam to a vertical position. I'm guessing it is pretty heavy on the cylinder end to pivot by hand.


----------



## eric_271 (Feb 10, 2008)

boostnut said:


> Eric, nice job on that splitter, definitely built for a lifetime (or 2). Looks like you need to add an aux. cylinder to pivot the beam to a vertical position. I'm guessing it is pretty heavy on the cylinder end to pivot by hand.



Thanks. Heavy for sure but when you run the rod and wedge out all the way it is pretty well balanced and not bad at all to lift. I copied this splitter from a picture of the splitez splitter but if you look at the splitez then mine you will see some differance's. The tubing under the beam on mine is about level with the top of the tank which makes the top of the beam when horizontal 33'' from the ground. A good working height for me. 2 life times, lol you might be right. I was going to take the beam off today and weld the ends on the tank but the cold front that came in last night has helped make up my mind to stay inside. Good excuse huh?


----------



## timbrjackrussel (Feb 27, 2008)

*16 gpm, 10 hp. Honda 4.5" 2" rod 10" H beam*


----------



## grampakev (Mar 7, 2008)

*my first attempt*

this is my first home made splitter. 13 hp, elec. start.4"x1.5" piston, 16gpm pump


----------



## clawmute (Mar 7, 2008)

*A homey*

A detachable "homey" made on the boom of my Kubota L4200. Total investment? 20-27 hours and $25 for welding wire and gas.

Notice that the base of the splitter & the 1 1/4" dia. bar upright are part of a monster monster maul I had made a few years ago. It got to where lifting it was like inspector Cleuseau trying to lift that huge battle axe to hit Drefus with.....so I re-adapted it.


----------



## stihl sawing (Mar 9, 2008)

Here's mine, Attempted to split some gum this morning but it's still too green. I did split a little bit that was cut this summer.




a little bit of it done this morning.




Wood left over from winter.




A tree that has to be cut up when the ground dries out. It's about 36 inches across.












And the weapons of choice to cut it with.


----------



## 460magnum (Mar 10, 2008)

*Huskee*

am looking at buying on of these this week! It is nice to come to a site like this and get all your ducks in a row. I can't make up my mind between the 5.5 Honda 27 ton splitter and the one you have 35 ton 12.5 briggs. It's just for home use so I think the 27 ton would be ok. I plan to sell firewood this year would it be a durable investment?


----------



## triptester (Mar 10, 2008)

These splitters I assume are both Huskees. The 27 ton will have a 4 1/2" bore with a 11 gpm pump which will give a 18 second cycle time. The 35 ton will have a 5" bore with a 16 gpm pump which will give you a 15 second cycle time. The 35 ton model with the 12.5 hp engine will allow you in the future to change to a 22 gpm pump with a new adaptor which would give a 10.3 second cycle time.

Huskees are made for TSC by Speeco which has a 25 ton model with a 4 1/2" bore cylinder, 16 gpm pump, and a 10.5 hp engine that will give you 12 second cycle times.

When looking at splitters, keep in mind that advertised tonnage are over rated , bore size will determine actual max. tonnage.


----------



## country boy (Mar 10, 2008)

*Ugly Iron*

Mine aint purdy by any means but it sure does take the work out of splitting hickory. I bought it from a good freind of mine for 50$ he no longer cuts wood . He just buys slab wood from the local sawmill. I think he just practicaly gave it to me i think i owe him a faver or two now.


----------



## logrover (Mar 10, 2008)

you get the idea... but loads of pictures of the build and it in use here: http://log-rover.co.uk


----------



## stihl sawing (Mar 10, 2008)

Man that thing is sweet.:rockn: Talk about being able to take your splitter with you anywhere you go.


----------



## jags (Mar 11, 2008)

*Most impressive*

Logrover - that has got to be - hands down- the most impressive home project that can be attributed to firewood that I have ever seen. Very Cool. 

I can only imagine the hours of labor that went into that. My hat is off to you sir.


----------



## logrover (Mar 11, 2008)

thankyou very much - yes it did take an hour or two over about 18months to build, but it was a good engineering challenge for a mere office worker like myself (my first dabble with hydraulics), so it was an enjoyable learning experience...

for those who havn't looked at the site, I should maybe point out that it tips, winches, runs on half price LPG rather than petrol, and is even exempt from road tax as it's classed as a "historic vehicle" over here.


----------



## Dapper Dan (Mar 11, 2008)

Logrover,

FANTASTIC project!
Make my splitter look pathetic!
Tried to rep ya but.....no bullets.

Rep fellas....this gent needs rep for this undertaking!


----------



## A. Stanton (Mar 22, 2008)

Here you go.


----------



## mga (Mar 22, 2008)

logrover said:


> thankyou very much - yes it did take an hour or two over about 18months to build, but it was a good engineering challenge for a mere office worker like myself (my first dabble with hydraulics), so it was an enjoyable learning experience...
> 
> for those who havn't looked at the site, I should maybe point out that it tips, winches, runs on half price LPG rather than petrol, and is even exempt from road tax as it's classed as a "historic vehicle" over here.



that, by far, has to be the best project i've seen. not only is the splitter a work of engineering art, but add the dump bed and you have an unbeatable set-up.

not only am i impressed, but i'm jealous too!!!

excellent build.

make one for me!


----------



## woodchop (Mar 22, 2008)

A. Stanton said:


> Here you go.



If you are going to pull the log splitter behind the ATV, you might want to install some wider tires. I had the same size/width on mine and the first time I took it in the field I sunk and buried the log splitter 20 feet from the gate. I used 10" wide trailer tires.


----------



## user 19670 (Mar 29, 2008)

Q - Why do most of the homemade splitters I have seen pics of on the AS Forum use H-Beam instead of I-Beam?


----------



## cabinman (Mar 30, 2008)

*H or I beam*



Gordie said:


> Q - Why do most of the homemade splitters I have seen pics of on the AS Forum use H-Beam instead of I-Beam?



I like the wider H beam,. So I can make the pusher shoe wide enough to swollow the hyd ram, when retracted, In other words,. I want a long shoe for less restiance, and binding reasons,..And If I have a 4-5 in ram the shoe has to be quite wide to retract all the way or it hits the end of the ram,.,A long shoe is best so it dosent BIND under pressure and is easier to push,Because it dosent (tilt), The closer to the front of the pusher shoe you hook the cylinder pin the less tilt u will experince, and with a 2 stage pump a little extra drag makes the pump stay in the low speed longer, the H beam allows you to build a longer shoe, as it allows the shoe to swollow the ram,..Eric


----------



## SWI Don (Mar 30, 2008)

Gordie,

Engineering wise an wideflange beam (W-beam) is a lot more stable than an I beam (S-beam). I beams will have thicker flanges but they are a lot narrower which offers much less resitance to twist and bending in the opposite (sideways) direction. 

When you heavily load a beam it will try to twist. That is one of the reasons you will see cross pieces between long beams to resist against twist. On a log splitter we dont have a neighboring beam to tie too. 

Another reason could be is that W-beams are more common to find in the used / scrap market where most home made splitters get their iron.

Don


----------



## BeeVee (Mar 30, 2008)

Hello everyone and thank you for your help/ideas in building my log splitter<a href="http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/Keepa/?action=view&current=September07033.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/Keepa/September07033.jpg" border="0" alt="log splitter"></a> I have to build a stand and maybe a log lifter for it ...if it ever warms up around here .


----------



## eric_271 (Apr 2, 2008)

Going together for the last time. Got my tables built where I can pull a pin to take them off if need be but it looks like the beam will still stand up for verticle splitting with out doing that. I will post a pic in a few days when I have it all back together and give it a test drive.


----------



## Old_School_Nut (Apr 2, 2008)

cabinman said:


> We are not building a rocket here,..And dont want to know how to build one,...If some one asks a simple question, That 1 or 2 lines will answer, and they have to read three paragraphs to get your responce,that still dosnt answer there question, is frustrating, .period You said,..EVERY ONE elses situation is slightly different,



Well I for one enjoy reading his posts, I wouldn't mind building a rocket either for that matter but thats OT.

I think its great that he is willing to spend the time to type up what he knows about the subject at hand, and even add a bit more, You might not need to know everything he is explaining but the more you know the better you will be at designing/fixing things. Sometimes the little things don't matter, but when you design something you might have a bunch of things working against you, in that case (and how would you know?) its good to have a better understanding of what is really going on and that you can actually calculate things out to avoid problems.

You might not learn much from reading, and like peoples log splitters we are all different. However many people CAN benefit from reading posts like that, I read them and I write some that are just as long winded. My reason is that the more a person knows about a subject the better they can understand the problems at hand, and sometimes why it may be hard to give a direct answer due to the complexity. If a person is not interested in the topic or what the author has to say then they don't have to read it, they can scroll down to the next one. If they just don't understand, they should ASK or its their loss...

Of course the goal of all good technical writing is to be short, descriptive and to the point, (info packed) but the wider the audience's technical knowledge in a field is, the harder it is to cater to everybody in ways they can all understand,and be kept interested (or insulted), I respect his effort.

-Leo-


----------



## cabinman (Apr 3, 2008)

*Fat*



Old_School_Nut said:


> Well I for one enjoy reading his posts, I wouldn't mind building a rocket either for that matter but thats OT.
> 
> I think its great that he is willing to spend the time to type up what he knows about the subject at hand, and even add a bit more, You might not need to know everything he is explaining but the more you know the better you will be at designing/fixing things. Sometimes the little things don't matter, but when you design something you might have a bunch of things working against you, in that case (and how would you know?) its good to have a better understanding of what is really going on and that you can actually calculate things out to avoid problems.
> 
> ...



Point well takin OSN,..Kevin Knows I respect his opinions and posts, And I was just triming the fat off the steak, Hes a great guy and VERY imformative,..Eric


----------



## mechnut (Apr 3, 2008)

*New Logsplitter*

This is a modified version of our old homebuilt logsplitter, I think we're gonna call it Brute-Force One


----------



## 2FatGuys (Apr 3, 2008)

mechnut said:


> This is a modified version of our old homebuilt logsplitter, I think we're gonna call it Brute-Force One



SWEET! The ideas are churning now....


----------



## mechnut (Apr 3, 2008)

Were close to being finished with it, that photo is a few weeks old. When I get back home tonight I'll post some more photos


----------



## mechnut (Apr 4, 2008)

*Self Propelled*

Fatguys:

In response to your earlier question yes, the unit is fully self powered and propelled. We used the transmission/pinion/final drives out of an old Allis Chalmers Model C tractor. We reversed the pinion and drive the transmission from the rear now via twin A-belts and a belt clutch. The hydraulics are powered by a haldex 16gpm pump attached directly to the engine(with room left for a bigger pump in the future). 

The engine is a PowerTrain Industrial Duty 13hp that my brother picked up brand new at a machinery auction for $250. 

The splitter cylinder is a steering cylinder off of a Cat front-end loader.
5" bore by 31" stroke.

We also have a 3"x8" cylinder used to tip the splitting beam up and down (it weighs about 500+ lbs when the cylinder is on and full of oil) and a 2"x 8" cylinder for hydraulic steering.

The frame is 2"X3" rectangular tubing with .25" wall thickness, and heavy wall 2" pipe. 

Splitter beam is 8" H-beam with .5" web

Here are some pics: I'll try to embed them.


----------



## mechnut (Apr 4, 2008)

*And More Pics*

some more...





















http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68404&stc=1&d=1207330296

We've finished puting the deck on it and are just diving into the hydraulics now, I'll post more pic's as soon as I get them off of my camera.


----------



## mechnut (Apr 4, 2008)

*Missed one*


----------



## WoodKID08 (Apr 5, 2008)

here's the old man and his toy.






http://www.raycomfg.com/Images/Silouettes/SoloPics/LS2526.gif

Bought this bout a year and a half ago...
has a 13hp Honda GX390, 1 cylinder motor
it's rated at 25 tons
and the cycle time is around 10 seconds...
handles a 24 inch log
has a hydraulic arm....and the wedge is is on a vertical hydraulic

the hydraulic lift can handle anything you can roll up onto it... pretty sure the manuel said 600 pounds.


----------



## WoodKID08 (Apr 5, 2008)

one pic didn't show up.... sorry

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l46/meandyou_08_2006/dadsplittingjune07.jpg?t=1207371930


----------



## mga (Apr 5, 2008)

WoodKID08 said:


> one pic didn't show up.... sorry
> 
> http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l46/meandyou_08_2006/dadsplittingjune07.jpg?t=1207371930



nice little tractor there....4WD too?


----------



## 2FatGuys (Apr 5, 2008)

mechnut said:


> some more...
> We've finished puting the deck on it and are just diving into the hydraulics now, I'll post more pic's as soon as I get them off of my camera.



Keep them coming. I'd love to see how it al turns out. How do you plan to use it? Vertical? Horizontal? How do you plan to get rounds onto it? How will you off load split wood?


----------



## eric_271 (Apr 6, 2008)

Done. 13 cords a day seems with in reason. Thanks too James of Splitez woodsplitters. I do have to take the tables off to stand the beem up but no big deal.


----------



## splittah (Apr 7, 2008)

Here's mine...





















while working it...














The aftermath...


----------



## antipesto (Apr 7, 2008)

Over here (UK) we seem to favour tractor mounted units rather than tow them with a pick up. Here's mine it's one I had out off a scrap pile at a local farm. A lick of paint, new valve and a couple of hydraulic hoses - good as new


----------



## mechnut (Apr 7, 2008)

*Use*

Fatguys:

Definatly designed our unit for verticle use, the beam was originally mounted on a simple running gear that we pulled around with a truck, on that rig it was able to be used it either verticle or horizontal positions. But, we never used it in the horizontal position, so when we redesigned it we didn't bother making it horizontally accessible. There is a hydraulic cylinder that tips the beam down off the frame and stands it upright.


----------



## user 19670 (Apr 11, 2008)

SWI Don said:


> Gordie,
> 
> Engineering wise an wideflange beam (W-beam) is a lot more stable than an I beam (S-beam). I beams will have thicker flanges but they are a lot narrower which offers much less resitance to twist and bending in the opposite (sideways) direction.
> 
> ...



Hi Don,

I was puzzled by your answer and for the longest time now haven't been able to get a visual image.
UNTIL yesterday! I was splitting a stubborn 3-way crotch and it was almost stopping the engine so I was on and off the valve to try and keep the engine running and "shock" my way through the wood. Then I watched the very top of the wedge as it moved with the twisting of the I-Beam.
That beam has more movements than a night crawler in a frying pan!

If I was to build a splitter I would definitely use an H-Beam for the reason you gave me.

Thanks for the input.


----------



## mechnut (Apr 11, 2008)

*Almost Finished*

Almost finished with the new log splitter, got to test drvie and use it the other day.


----------



## jags (Apr 11, 2008)

Well, would you look at that thing. Pretty slick machine. How much will the front end hold on that?


----------



## mechnut (Apr 11, 2008)

*How Much*

Not sure how much it will hold, didn't measure it yet. Some where around 3/4 of a pickup truck load. I hhavn't calculated the cordal amount yet.


----------



## 2FatGuys (Apr 11, 2008)

Gordie said:


> If I was to build a splitter I would definitely use an H-Beam for the reason you gave me. Thanks for the input.



Be careful... the description comparing W Shapes (or Wide-flange, apparently what you guys are calling H beams) to S Shapes (or Sloped-flange, apparently what is being called an I beam) is like comparing an apple to a motorcycle. There is no fair way to easily completely explain the difference in reactions. Most of the commercially available splitters are using some form of W-flange steel. The MAIN reason for it is that for a given WEIGHT of beam, you have more lateral and torsional strength in a given beam depth. S-flange shines in vertically loaded applications, such as overhead crane trolley beams. The big discussion should center around how HEAVY of a w-flange to use. There are 2 w-flanges that are approximately 8" high x 6 1/2" wide. One weighs 28# / ft and the other 24# / ft. While there is only 4# / ft difference, it translates into much more stiffness than the 17% increase in weight would indicate.

Personally, I am opting to use a MUCH stiffer beam for the splitter that I am collecting materials to build. I have a length of w8x67 waiting for me. It is 8"h x 8"w with flnage and web thicknesses TWICE the "standard" splitter beam size.


----------



## 2FatGuys (Apr 11, 2008)

mechnut said:


> Not sure how much it will hold, didn't measure it yet. Some where around 3/4 of a pickup truck load. I hhavn't calculated the cordal amount yet.



Your engineering of your new splitter / transport continues to amaze me. I bet you had a ball thinking through it all and building it!


----------



## user 19670 (Apr 11, 2008)

2FatGuys said:


> Be careful... the description comparing W Shapes (or Wide-flange, apparently what you guys are calling H beams) to S Shapes (or Sloped-flange, apparently what is being called an I beam) is like comparing an apple to a motorcycle. There is no fair way to easily completely explain the difference in reactions. Most of the commercially available splitters are using some form of W-flange steel. The MAIN reason for it is that for a given WEIGHT of beam, you have more lateral and torsional strength in a given beam depth. S-flange shines in vertically loaded applications, such as overhead crane trolley beams. The big discussion should center around how HEAVY of a w-flange to use. There are 2 w-flanges that are approximately 8" high x 6 1/2" wide. One weighs 28# / ft and the other 24# / ft. While there is only 4# / ft difference, it translates into much more stiffness than the 17% increase in weight would indicate.
> 
> Personally, I am opting to use a MUCH stiffer beam for the splitter that I am collecting materials to build. I have a length of w8x67 waiting for me. It is 8"h x 8"w with flnage and web thicknesses TWICE the "standard" splitter beam size.



My terminology comes from many a year in the Millwright trade. Cut a slice of the end of the beam and one looks like an "I" and the other looks like an "H". Didn't know about OR appreciate the weight per ft. differences until I got involved in being a Planner.
I would pick something heavy enough since I have to source it and make the purchase.

My current splitter was built with parts procured on the Graveyard Shift at work and you didn't always have the option to pick what you wanted but would settle for what you could easily lay your hands on.


----------



## 2FatGuys (Apr 11, 2008)

Gordie said:


> My current splitter was built with parts procured on the Graveyard Shift at work and you didn't always have the option to pick what you wanted but would settle for what you could easily lay your hands on.



+1 on the Midnight Splitter Materails Supply!! LOL I'm all about materials scavenging! My beam section is a "leftover" from one of my projects.

I just wanted to point out, to those that may be planning new splitter projects, how beams are now classified and what affects price (weight) and strength (cross-sectional area) in a "layman's terms" posting.


----------



## jwfirebird (Apr 11, 2008)

got this woodsplitter for dunkin doughnuts coffee for a month. i havent come across anything it couldnt split yet. i got a honda engine for free recently so im going to put that on and looking at all you guys lifts has got me thinking about adding one of those as well.


----------



## user 19670 (Apr 11, 2008)

jwfirebird said:


> got this woodsplitter for dunkin doughnuts coffee for a month. i havent come across anything it couldnt split yet. i got a honda engine for free recently so im going to put that on and looking at all you guys lifts has got me thinking about adding one of those as well.



That is one sweet deal!


----------



## 2FatGuys (Apr 11, 2008)

jwfirebird said:


> got this woodsplitter for dunkin doughnuts coffee for a month. i havent come across anything it couldnt split yet. i got a honda engine for free recently so im going to put that on and looking at all you guys lifts has got me thinking about adding one of those as well.



Congrats! And good luck on the new project...


----------



## triptester (Apr 11, 2008)

mechnut ,

sweet looking machine


----------



## mechnut (Apr 14, 2008)

Thanks for the compliments:

we have a few odds and ends to tie-up and then we'll be done, it works really well so far though.


----------



## WVwoodsman (Apr 14, 2008)

mechnut:
That has got to be the slickest splitter I have ever seen! Good Work!:jawdrop:


----------



## mechnut (Apr 14, 2008)

*Thanx*

Thanx again to everyone for the compliments.

I guess I should explain why we decided to build this crazy contraption. Most of the firewood we cut is away from home, so with our old setup we had to tow the splitter to where we were cutting, then haul one of our tractors and a trailor to haul the wood up out of the woods where we couldn't get a truck. 

So just to cut a truck load of firewood involved a major convoy. Now we drive the splitter onto our 16' trailor, and a small wagon behind it if we want, split our wood load the truck, load the splitter, put the splitter back on the trailor, then hall it all home.

So, that's why we built it,

well that and it was fun.


----------



## mechnut (Apr 16, 2008)

*Hydraulic Pics*


















just a few pics of the hydraulic system.


----------



## gtstang462002 (Apr 16, 2008)

mechnut said:


> just a few pics of the hydraulic system.



How are you getting you power to the differential??


----------



## gtstang462002 (Apr 16, 2008)

Foward and reverse??


----------



## Boogieman142 (Apr 17, 2008)

I know its an old thread but heres mine. its a 3hp electric motor on 220v. the ram is from a full size bulldozer and the pump is unknown. It will split anything u put under it. 

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c216/Boogieman142/P1000551.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c216/Boogieman142/P1000550.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c216/Boogieman142/P1000549.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c216/Boogieman142/P1000548.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c216/Boogieman142/P1000547.jpg


----------



## Boogieman142 (Apr 18, 2008)

did a little more research on this splitter. it was one of my fathers. The motor is an ajax 3 hp. electric. the ram has a 5.5 inch bore and a 2" rod diameter. The pump is a williams machine and tool company d58x which produces 5000 psi. that combonation according to the baum hydraulics calculator will produce 59.4 tons, no wonder it splits everything.


----------



## ray benson (Apr 19, 2008)

d58x pump is a 2 stage 6 gpm pump. Pretty slow cycle times.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Apr 21, 2008)

works for what i need to do with it, has for 30 years.


----------



## wdanforth (Apr 22, 2008)

perkins6354 said:


> My homebuilt splitter running off a free diesel i got from a street sweeper, it's a lil big but it works.



Is it expensive to operate? Not portable. But I do admire the pig roaster in the picture. Looks like one I built. Not just a smoker but rotisserie as well. Looks like a fuel oil tank with a fire box. I use a Dayton Gear Reduction motor.


----------

