# 338XPT Husqvarna vs.ms200stihl



## Pollock777

I have always used stihl I have a chance to buy 2 almost new 338xpt's are they worth the $600.00 the man wants. I have friends that I work for on the weekends there big saws are huskys the climbing saws are stihls. I owen 2-020t's and 1-019. I'm just thinking for the price are they worth tring.I don't know that much about Husqvarna saws. Thank You for any help you can give me.


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## Kneejerk Bombas

How old are they, and what condition?
They better be pretty nice for that price.


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## newb

Ford vs Chevy. Its a matter of taste. There both good saws just depends what side of the fence the guy your asking is standing on. I run all Stihl equipment because then I only need one mix of gas and I know all my equipment is getting it right.


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## notahacker

$600 dollars is abnormally high for the 338 XPT. Don't buy it for more than $390! I have searched online and have found two places which sell them for this price.

http://www.*****.com/index.html?lang=en-us&target=d12.html

http://www.arborgreensupply.com/productDetail.asp_Q_catID_E_11_A_subCatID_E_4_A_productID_E_1

Anyway, I have owned both. As a climber I have found that my MS200T has been the most durable. The Husky's break at the spark plug cover (and are capable of giving a hell of a shock, trust me). Also the muffler gaurd breaks too easily (and are capable of giving you a hell of a burn, trust me). Then, I think there is unmatched power with the MS200T. I find mine consistant and reliable.


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## skwerl

skip 'em. You already have 3 climbing saws, the two 338's would end up being used as 'beater saws' by the least experienced ground crew since nobody else will want to use them. Once you've owned a 200T, nothing else comes close.


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## Pollock777

I Thank You for the help I do love my 020's And they have been though the fire and back and keep on running. Along with the 019 I don't use as much. And your right the ground guys use to grab the climbing saws all the time.Went and bought 2-009's and now there Happy they leave my climbing saws alone.


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## daveyclimber

I think he meant $600 for both saws . I prefer the 335/338 over the 200ms , We have 4 husky and 2 sthil and I cannot stand the awkwardnes of the 200ms ,it is like a shoebox with a handle . I do a mild mod on the husky ,port out the muffler to a 5/8" hole ,modify the filter cover and she will run like a raped ape with tons of power . I am constantly chunking 10-14" rounds in the tree with the husky . When Iran the sthil in the tree I would have to bring up the 360 to do the medium size wood . My 338 is that fast to pull double duty , I love it


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## Stumper

Newb, You only need one can of mix no matter how many brands of saws you run.

Brian, You decided that 200 is the one huh? Are the Echos just backups now? I have to admit -I'm going to buy a new climbing saw this spring-I'm still debating Husky? 192T? or 200T? I like the light weight of the 192 but I'm tempted by the performance of the others.


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## daveyclimber

Another trick with thge husky , go to the dealer and get a hard cover for the plug wire , they are used on the husky weed wackers , solves that problem , though I do agree with the earlier post about the muffler cover . When I port the muffler it takes care of the problem with the exhaust burning your hand when chunking , I have caught my gloves on fire with the factory exhaust direction . I am tinkering with the idea of making a new muffler cover out of expanded sheet metal so the breakage is limited


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## skwerl

Justin,
That 200T I bought last year when I was out there with you was the death warrant on my modified Echos. I have not used one of them in a tree since. A couple months ago the kill switch quit working on the 200T so I dropped it off for repair (warranty) and bought a second 200T. I need to replace the stale gas in the ported Echos so I can either sell them or use them as loaners. The 200T with the muffler screen removed will absolutely blow away any other climbing saw on the market. I stubbornly refused to admit it for many years and argued against the blocky, ugly Stihls. But once you own one you can never settle for any other climbing saw since they are all underpowered in comparison.

I did upgrade to the fancy 14" ultra-light bars (my local dealer gets almost $45 each for them) and they make a drastic difference in the balance of the saw. The rails wear extremely well and the composite center has a better memory than regular bars. I've gotten my saws in a couple binds but have not been able to bend one of those bars.


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## notahacker

I too though the 200T was "blocky," however, I went back to a 335XPT to prepare to sell. When I picked it up I noticed the tip of the bar pointed down. I immediately saw that the Husky's are not balanced well. Perhaps, I have muscle memory for my 200T? 

As mentioned above, taking out the spark arrester makes the 200T scream like no other trim saw on the market. Hands down!


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## a_lopa

both should be banned top handled saws are a liability.


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## skwerl

lopa, nobody is forcing you to use them. But if you want to take my most valuable moneymaking tool away from me because you think "It's a liability", then you're gonna have to come over here and take it away from me in person. You can create all the stupid liberal 'save everybody from the stupidest denominator' laws you want down there but keep your dam laws offa my saw.


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## a_lopa

im not one for rules skwiril but top handle saws should be banned,there little death traps IMO.

im personally convinced using a bigger saw is far safer IMO what you do is up to you if you want to be one handing because you "can"its not my problem


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## gumneck

let's get ready to rummmmmmmmbbbbbbbbbbbblllllllllllllllllllleeeeeeeeeee !!


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## notahacker

Seriously guys. Chill. 

"Can't we all just get along?"


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## daveyclimber

Well that is interesting a_lopa , how many deaths do you think have occured with top handles as oposed to conventional saws ? Since conventional saws far outnumber top handles I am convinced more deaths and injuries can be contributed to conventional saws , Do you trim with a conventional saw ? Do you use a handsaw ? I will use a top handle thanks , evolution makes my life easier and I'll stick with the tools that were evolved for the work but hey to each their own , I not trying to disrespect a_lopa just dont understand his opinion


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## Stumper

I busted the pull cord on my Tophandled Saw the other day on a takedown. I had an assistant along so rather than do th eold one man show descend regroup reascend trick I just had another saw sent up. I got it done with a reahandled saw. But it wasn't easier, safer or better. It is very nice to talk about learning good climbing techniques so that a person can always position to use two hands on a saw. It is a crock of Maasian breakfast cereal. Tophandled saws fill a need for saw that is CONTROLLABLE with either one hand or two. Even when two handing a tophandle has some benefits -the fact that one hand can take primary control eases certain balance difficulties in awkward positions. Is a rear handled saw more controllable in a kickback event? Generally yes. Positioning and balance are still important determining factors. I would rather control a top handled saw in a contorted position than a rearhandled one. -AND the option of one-handed control helps AVOID some contorted positions. Tophandled saws Are seen as a liability by bureaucrats and lawyers and a few working climbers. Most working climbers consider them an asset. If you don't want to use tophandled saws don't-but don't try to take mine away from me.


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## rahtreelimbs

Some like the 338 some don't! From what I have heard the 338 is not much of an improvement over it's predecessor 335. For me there has not been enough positive feedback to buy a 338. 

The 020T/220 may be square and an ergonomic brick but there is no denying the stellar reputation and loyal following that the 020T/200t has!


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## Koa Man

I have two 020Ts and two MS200Ts and recently acquired a MS192T. I have been trying it out the past two days and it is a very good saw. The fuel consumption seems to be much less than that of the MS200T, unless Stihl made the fuel tank bigger. In any case, if I was to buy another climbing saw today, I would go and buy the MS192T for $279 instead of the $459 for the MS200T.

I have been one handing top handle saws for 20 years and never had an accident or even a near accident in that time. Just watch where the tip of your bar is and no problem. You should know where your bar tip is even with a rear handle saw. It is impossible for a saw to kickback if the tip does not contact anything.


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## a_lopa

how do these saws make things easier/safer?

what do the manufacturers say about using them?


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## Dadatwins

Do not want to jinx myself but I have been nicked more with my handsaw than my 200 top handle saw. I am not crazy about the shape of the handle on the 200, I like the angle of the 192t better, it has a more natural feel in my wrist as opposed to the extra tilt on the 200t. There is no denying the power of the 200t compared to everything else out there. I have the 200 rear handle saw also and LOVE it. Really sweet in the bucket. Great ground saw also with a 16" bar.


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## rahtreelimbs

a_lopa said:


> how do these saws make things easier/safer?




Because you can one-hand them!!!


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## notahacker

TreeCo said:


> I love my 200T.




Heck yeah baby!


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## climber1423

a_lopa said:


> how do these saws make things easier/safer?
> 
> what do the manufacturers say about using them?


Why dont you quit complaining and go back to the way they did it in the olden' days. With and axe and a 2 man saw. Then come back here and tell us whats better, swinging and axe 70ft up or using a trimsaw saw 70ft up.


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## woodchux

They call it one handing
because you're likely to wind up
with only one hand.

Just kidding...I love my 200t


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## a_lopa

TreeCo said:


> The top handled saws have a pretty confirmed track record of being the saw of choice for a large percentage of climbers. I like mine.
> 
> If you don't feel the top handled saws have advantages then they are not for you. Trying to get such saws banned is not the best idea. What is the next logical step.........no exposed moving parts? Even at it's worst the top handled chainsaw is only marginally more dangerous than a rear handled saw and both are much more dangerous than a cucumber. We will be cutting with cukes before you know it......so I feel as arborist we need to back off the regulation BS unless we want to loose the chainsaw as an arborist tool.



if your going to qoute me dan at least attempt to answer one of the questions.thanks


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## a_lopa

rahtreelimbs said:


> Because you can one-hand them!!!



dont say that youll get skwiril and dans pantys in a twist


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## climber1423

OK a lopa heres my answer 338 run for the cost you pay for them and same as the 200. My personal choice is husky because we get deals on them and we like their bigger saws.


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## kf_tree

climber1423 said:


> OK a lopa heres my answer 338 run for the cost you pay for them and same as the 200. My personal choice is husky because we get deals on them and we like their bigger saws.



one has nothing to do with the other.........the ms 200's are the best climbing saw's out there. then all my mid size and up saw's are husky and the "big" one is an 880. i'm all about husky but when someone else makes a better product brand loyalty goes out the window.


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## skwerl

ALL my saws are Husky, except my MS200T. It's the best climbing saw, period. Who cares about a couple hundred dollars difference in price for a tool that will make you tens of thousands of dollars per year? Ken is correct and I am loyal to the best saw available for my needs.


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## climber1423

I agree with you on the best "trimsaw." But I also never stated that husky was better than stihl. I stated that I get husky's because we get deals on them. And they are good for a good period of time. And they get cold to quick. But they do the job for me so Im happy.

Thx Dan


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## dakota

I thought that a disagreement might be a good time for first post. I can certainly understand a lopa's concern about top handled saws. Some climbers can get carried away and sloppy - I did for awhile. But I would much rather work with guys who know how to use a chain break than someone who always uses two hands on a saw. You obviously can't hit the break when you have one hand on the saw but it seems like guys that consistently hit the break after a cut will automatically turn the saw off after making a one handed cut. Conversly, I've worked with guys that never hit the chain break regardless. Chain breaks are probably the most under-utilized safety practice that I have seen both in the bush and on the ground.


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## dogdad

I love my 460...360.. 260P..and my 200T........and i don't even climb...........


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## Kneejerk Bombas

dakota said:


> I thought that a disagreement might be a good time for first post. I can certainly understand a lopa's concern about top handled saws. Some climbers can get carried away and sloppy - I did for awhile. But I would much rather work with guys who know how to use a chain break than someone who always uses two hands on a saw. You obviously can't hit the break when you have one hand on the saw but it seems like guys that consistently hit the break after a cut will automatically turn the saw off after making a one handed cut. Conversly, I've worked with guys that never hit the chain break regardless. Chain breaks are probably the most under-utilized safety practice that I have seen both in the bush and on the ground.


Hey neighbor.
Top handled saws tend to encourage one handed use, which greatly increases cuts to the other hand and arm, plus, it reduces the control in a kick-back event. A lot of guys get cut one handing.
I bet you could find a half dozen stories on cuts by 020s just in the last few weeks, just on these few boards.


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## a_lopa

it dont matter,if im wrong its all kosher.


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## dakota

I wouldn't say that you're wrong. No chain saw should be used with one hand. There are, however, advantages to using top-handled saws and there are times when using one hand to guide a limb or push a chunk while sawing through it is "necessary." I've recently left a company where some of their practices made me cringe and with those guys I'd have rather seen them use saw lanyards and hit the chain break even though they kept two hands on the saw.


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## 046

This exact issue has come up more than once. It's pretty well proven one handed chainsaws can be more dangerous than a simular sized rear handled saw. 

no way top handled saws should be banned. in certain situations in a tree, it's actually safer. but rest of the time it's more dangerous due to decreased control in kickback situations and increased danger of cutting your other hand. 

In Britain top handled saw use are regulated, only tree surgeons are allow to in trees. They recognize advantages, HSE (Health & Safety Executive) put out an excellent safety manual for proper use.

http://www.hse.gov.uk/research/crr_htm/2001/crr01402.htm

http://www.worldofpower.co.uk/safety/chainsaw_safety.html


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## rbtree

Daveyclimber, thanks for the tip on an alternate and better plug cover for the Huskys. Personally I prefer 335's to the 200T. The lanyard attachment is way better, stronger, and easier to use, and the shape of the saw allows it to be moved through obstacles more easily. The brake and handle hold up better than the 200. And, at least for the three current ones that I'm running, they all cut with or faster than the 200. (Though I'm sure that when I mod the 200T muffler, it will be faster. However, when that is done, I'll have to have someone mod the carb so that it can be adjusted richer) And, all three of them start and run just as well and consistently as the 200T. Another thing I don't like about the 200 is the proximity of the handle to the starter handle. It makes it awkward to do quick hand switchovers.


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## BlackenedTimber

MS200T. there are no other trim saws. there are only tinker toys.


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## skwerl

rbtree said:


> And, at least for the three current ones that I'm running, they all cut with or faster than the 200. (Though I'm sure that when I mod the 200T muffler, it will be faster. However, when that is done, I'll have to have someone mod the carb so that it can be adjusted richer)


Hey Roger, if yuor 200T is new (less than 2 years old) then the jet cap is very easy to remove. Just pull the air filter and the plastic cover behind it so you can see the carb. Then pull the rubber dust cover over the adjustment screws. Take a small screwdriver or something and just slide the cap off the high end jet, then put it back on after rotating it a half turn (or after you've reassembled and tuned the saw). Literally took me 3 minutes to do mine and I didn't damage the cap pulling it off.


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## Diesel JD

I like less regulation and more responsibility. If I'm selling saws, I'm going to tell the potential purchaser that Stihl recommends the 200T 192T for use only in a tree by trained professionals, and if I'm buying a saw I will bear that in mind. But what do you all think of a 192T for pruning around the yard in or out of a tree? I don't see how being in a tree makes it safer or more dangerous, with the possible exception that being in a tree means an increased risk of losing your balance and hurting yourself.


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## WoodTick007

skwerl said:


> Hey Roger, if yuor 200T is new (less than 2 years old) then the jet cap is very easy to remove. Just pull the air filter and the plastic cover behind it so you can see the carb. Then pull the rubber dust cover over the adjustment screws. Take a small screwdriver or something and just slide the cap off the high end jet, then put it back on after rotating it a half turn (or after you've reassembled and tuned the saw). Literally took me 3 minutes to do mine and I didn't damage the cap pulling it off.



Is what your discribing a way to get at the "fixed" H jet? My saw just has an adjustable "L" and Idle. Is there an adjustable jet behind that metal insert/cover one the carb?


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## skwerl

nope, both mine have an adjustable high speed jet. The fixed jet carbs suck and I wouldn't own one. Sorry, can't help with those.


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## 166

Stihl is in a class of their own with the 200T.

Dolmar is coming out with their new top handle the PS-3410TH. When they come in I'll let a local Arborist try one. This customer is running the 200T's and has tried every top handle on the market.







MS 200 T Chain Saw
DISPLACEMENT 35.2 cc (2.15 cu. in.)
ENGINE POWER 1.6 kW (2.1 bhp)
WEIGHT (powerhead only) 3.5 kg (7.7 lbs.)

Model: PS-3410 TH 
Engine displacement: 34 cc. 
Power Rating: 1.4 kW 
Power rating: 1.9 bHP 
Max. engine Speed (with bar and chain): 10,000 RPM 
Net weight without bar and chain: 7.0 lbs

Does anybody know how many RPM's the 200T turns?

Steve


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## rbtree

Steve, I disagree. I actually prefer the 335's....most all problems are worked out..and, for that matter, the 200 has its share of problems anyhow.....

I finally got the 5100 from Ed, just tonite...put the pipe on and fired it up in the house. Nice!!! 

Could you do me a favor and email or fax me a bill of sale for my records, please. 
pm me for fax or email info...

Thanks!


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## kf_tree

steve,
10,000 rpm sounds mighty low, the 200t spins at 15,000.


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## 166

Roger,
Check your email for the invoice. That was also mailed to you on 11/4/05.

You will like your new 5100s! Ed has it all tuned up for you. Also could you post a picture of the saw, I have only seen the video with the pipe.


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## 166

KFTree, 
I knew the 200T Turned some RPM's but I did not see that listed anywhere. Dolmar also just renumbered that saw from a 3400TH - 3410TH, hopefully they got some more RPM's / Power out of that saw.

Steve


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## SawTroll

I don't know if this helps, but in a German test report from 1996 the 200T was listed with max power output at 10000 rpm - nothing on max permitted rpm.
This TI from 2004 list the max rpm as 14000.

The corresponding numbers for the 338xpt is 9600/13800rpm.

There has been some misprints/mistakes at Dolmars website. I would not be surpriced if the listed 10000 rpm for the TH-3410 is the max power rpm, and not the max permitted rpm.


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## 166

SawTroll,
I think you are probably right about the RPM's. I have the saws on order and will be tested when they come in.
Steve


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## pgg

Hi from down under(NZ) just noticed this site while trawling the net, now, the ms200 versus 335/338 XPT 'issue' well I use both these saws commercial pruning pine forests, have done for years, around 200 or so trees per day, day in, day out, month after month, year after year , you get the picture - no mercy on a chainsaw in this job. O.K, out of the two, I waay prefer the XPT,(modified, but we'll get to that soon) mainly because of ergonomics, that's balance and comfort basically. Both saws have closely matched power, the ms has the slightest of edges over the 335 but the power differences are pretty much negligible. Haven't needed to go to the 338 yet as the 335 motor is virtually idestructable ( synthetic 2 stroke oil used always) 

Both ms and xpt have a ratsh#t front handle design for tree pruning, the original 019T(just a 'backyard' saw is the 19T) has the best handle design for tree pruning, (some echos have copied the design, but of course echos are absolute sh#t chainsaws) the pics show the 19T handle modded to the xpt, pretty easy to setup. More difficult to mod the side type handle to the ms because of the ms's fuel tank position. 

Right, here's the list of what needs doing to a brand new XPT to make it the top notch pruning saw.
1. the 19T handle mod.
2. strip and unrestrict the xpt's lousy fuel tank breather and remove the ridiculous 'plug' that simply won't breathe properly as stock.
3. muffler port cut to re-direct the hot gas away from your trigger hand.(unbelievable design flaw!)
4. Dump the ridiculously frail cheesy oregon bar for a ms200 12" bar running 1/4" chain. An easy mod to fit. (3/8" chain snaps like crazy(both stihl & oregon chain too) and has no place on a professional pruning saw. The 1/4" chain stretches a LOT LESS, and lasts a LOT longer)
5. replace 3/8 drive sprocket and worm with 1/4" sprocket and worm.
6. Hacksaw the ridiculously long chain brake to a short non-tangle, no hassle length.
7. Ditch the stupid muffler screen. 

Other annoyances - the airfilter is pathetically frail, and the sparkplug cover is dodgy and weak, ditch the plug cover anyway, as the motor runs cooler without it. Also the bolt-on magnesium cover is weak and fragile too.

So, for a 'buy and use as is' saw, the ms200 would be the first choice. Apart from feeling like an unwieldy uncomfortable brick, and also carboning up the muffler wth oily sludge on stock carb settings, the ms200 is solid and won't dissapoint. Anyway, all in all, the 'modified' husky is better than the stock stihl, but the stock stihl is better than the stock husky. 

Always amazes me how the husky designers can put out a potentially brilliant pruning saw with niggly and aggravating 'defects' in design that would be so easy to rectify before manufacture. Anyway, cheers people, as always - just one persons opinion.


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## jrparbor04

alright y'all,,,i have always used a 200t or now a ms220t stihl,,,nothing better than that in my book,,,if you dont like the saw,,,use something else and quit complaining,,,and when was the last you were up in a tree with a saw there complain boy?


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## pgg

,,,and when was the last you were up in a tree with a saw there complain boy? 4.45pm Friday, but that's not important right now, the huskys smoother than the stihl too ha ha but jrpar what if ya don't like the saw but can't use something else because everything else is junk?


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## pbtree

I ain't giving up on my over handle for nothing...


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## Highclimber OR

200t smokes the 338 xp and I will say that the main diff is how they are weighted. Why move from best to second-best?


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## BostonBull

pgg said:


> Hi from down under(NZ) just noticed this site while trawling the net, now, the ms200 versus 335/338 XPT 'issue' well I use both these saws commercial pruning pine forests, have done for years, around 200 or so trees per day, day in, day out, month after month, year after year , you get the picture - no mercy on a chainsaw in this job. O.K, out of the two, I waay prefer the XPT,(modified, but we'll get to that soon) mainly because of ergonomics, that's balance and comfort basically. Both saws have closely matched power, the ms has the slightest of edges over the 335 but the power differences are pretty much negligible. Haven't needed to go to the 338 yet as the 335 motor is virtually idestructable ( synthetic 2 stroke oil used always)
> 
> Both ms and xpt have a ratsh#t front handle design for tree pruning, the original 019T(just a 'backyard' saw is the 19T) has the best handle design for tree pruning, (some echos have copied the design, but of course echos are absolute sh#t chainsaws) the pics show the 19T handle modded to the xpt, pretty easy to setup. More difficult to mod the side type handle to the ms because of the ms's fuel tank position.
> 
> Right, here's the list of what needs doing to a brand new XPT to make it the top notch pruning saw.
> 1. the 19T handle mod.
> 2. strip and unrestrict the xpt's lousy fuel tank breather and remove the ridiculous 'plug' that simply won't breathe properly as stock.
> 3. muffler port cut to re-direct the hot gas away from your trigger hand.(unbelievable design flaw!)
> 4. Dump the ridiculously frail cheesy oregon bar for a ms200 12" bar running 1/4" chain. An easy mod to fit. (3/8" chain snaps like crazy(both stihl & oregon chain too) and has no place on a professional pruning saw. The 1/4" chain stretches a LOT LESS, and lasts a LOT longer)
> 5. replace 3/8 drive sprocket and worm with 1/4" sprocket and worm.
> 6. Hacksaw the ridiculously long chain brake to a short non-tangle, no hassle length.
> 7. Ditch the stupid muffler screen.
> 
> Other annoyances - the airfilter is pathetically frail, and the sparkplug cover is dodgy and weak, ditch the plug cover anyway, as the motor runs cooler without it. Also the bolt-on magnesium cover is weak and fragile too.
> 
> So, for a 'buy and use as is' saw, the ms200 would be the first choice. Apart from feeling like an unwieldy uncomfortable brick, and also carboning up the muffler wth oily sludge on stock carb settings, the ms200 is solid and won't dissapoint. Anyway, all in all, the 'modified' husky is better than the stock stihl, but the stock stihl is better than the stock husky.
> 
> Always amazes me how the husky designers can put out a potentially brilliant pruning saw with niggly and aggravating 'defects' in design that would be so easy to rectify before manufacture. Anyway, cheers people, as always - just one persons opinion.





Sorry but you are wrong! The 200T will smoke a stock 335 or a 338. Period end of story. Now if it is ergonomics thats a personal preference. On paper, or in the real owlrd the 200T has the power not the HUSKY!

Now if we are talking a mufler modded 200T vs. a mufler modded 338, ah heck the Stihl STILL has the power nod!

And what this CRAP about the 1/4" chain being STRONGER than the BIGGER 3/8"? You lost your mind? If that was the case dont you think Stihl would put out 1/4" on the 250, 260, 200, and 200T? Think about it!

I think we may have a new troll here boys!


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## rbtree

Yo Bull....No way is he a troll, look at the mod pics he included.

And, over the years, I've run many Huskys, some stock, some modded, some just muffler modded. Years ago, I had a bone stock one that would hold its own with 020's ( or better). The others were also close--when they ran... Now, I run all ported XPT's, versus only muffler screen removed on the 200T. They're all close, except for the one 335, that I got from rich hoffman in pieces, which is still going strong 3 years later, and still easily beats the 200t. Thee 338 that I had woods modded by dozerdan still underwhelms, which is one reason why I have yet to get another 338.....

Currently, the ones I have all start and run reliably. There's still a few of the old nagging problems left....flimsy plug cover that must be taped on (this looks to be remedied on the new saws.) starter rewind that sometimes binds....

I think one reason why so many think the 200 is a much faster saw is the way it runs...higher rpm and quicker acceleration..and easier to start. 

There's both good saws, but, as I've stated many times, I prefer the Huskys....and I'm not alone.

As far as the .250 chain goes, it could well be stronger, as the shorter parts may be less likely to break. The .375 low pro is fine if run smoothly by a good operator, and if the tie straps haven't been filed into. I haven't run .250 in 25 years. It's a darned good chain, much smoother cutting, but sure has a lot of cutters to sharpen!


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## PLAYFORD TREE

:hmm3grin2orange: Gentleman,gentleman,gentleman,

There *IS* and *CAN* only be one *CHAMPION*.
One *VICTOR*.
The *BEST* that was ever made.

And the winner is,..........:smoking: 

Cheer, cheer, the *ORANGE *and *WHITE*.
It will cut through the day,
And all through the night!!

Husqvarna should stick to making sowing machines. 

The only power tools that should be made out of plastic are
the ones that take batteries, and are used for the pleasurement
of women.:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
066 MAGNUM (yeah baby, who's your daddy)
026 (the perfect all rounder)
ms190 (200t just around the corner)
019t (good for the ground)
HT75 (my favourite, my fat ass doesn't have to leave the ground)
BG85 Blower (my other favourite, good cleanup=more work)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Even dirty old men need love too


----------



## Dadatwins

Cool old thread, given the old husky vs stihl fight has anyone else tried the dolmar 3410th? For the $$$ and the power it produces it should be discussed as another choice for the pro. I bought one and am very satisfied with it. Anyone else?


----------



## lxt

a_lopa said:


> both should be banned top handled saws are a liability.



WHAT? A liability for someone without the muscle, If your dumb enough to john wayne a trim saw by your face, lanyard or other!!! then you deserve what you get!!

personally, there is a place for one handing & a place for both hands(personal preference). talk like this prompts the MFG & unknowledgeable homeowner to petition for just such a thing(banning that is). 

IMO if you feel comfortable using your saw with one hand then do so!! but dont mention banning, god that irritates me!!! 

LXT................


----------



## 046

another happy 335 xpt user here... not saying it's better than MS200T. but my 335 xpt with only a muffler mod, starts good, runs strong and has been dead reliable. 

when I run across a clean 020T/200T at a super deal. I'll give stihl a try. until then, 335xpt does the job with next to zero fuss.


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## jrparbor04

has anyone mentioned the fact that the stihl has much more room to grab the handle with gloves,,,,as always as a pro,,,,than the husky,,,,gotta be comfy in a tree working the saw


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## jrparbor04

oh ya,,,gotta love my 046 and 088 stihl :jawdrop: :jawdrop:


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## rahtreelimbs

Husky may have worked the bugs out of the 334/338 but I still wouldn't buy one.................toooooo much of a checkered past!!!


----------



## treesquirrel

*200T fer me*

I will cut against any saw on the market in a comparable HP range as my 200T.

The 192t will smoke all the rest as well, the 200T JUST SMOKES EM EVEN HARDER!


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## rbtree

treesquirrel said:


> I will cut against any saw on the market in a comparable HP range as my 200T.
> 
> The 192t will smoke all the rest as well, the 200T JUST SMOKES EM EVEN HARDER!



Huh? I'd be embarrassed to run the 192T in stock form. Of all the saws I've run over the years, only the little Echo 280E would be slower. The 3400 Echo would beat it, the 3000, I never ran, but it would prolly be slower--Poulan S25, not even close, Echo 302S would also win, Homelite Super EZ no contest.....even woods modded by Ed Heard, it is slower than a bone stock 335 Cali or 200T.


----------



## rbtree

jrparbor04 said:


> has anyone mentioned the fact that the stihl has much more room to grab the handle with gloves,,,,as always as a pro,,,,than the husky,,,,gotta be comfy in a tree working the saw



Not really...I find the Husky to have more room...of course I mostly use Blue Atlas gloves.


----------



## SRT-Tech

tried the Stihl 200T, did'nt like it. Poor ergonomics (handle), heavy (for a top handle), unbalanced, horrible sounding, air filters clogged way too quick, carb was a nightmare to work with. floppy bar. cheap plastic, tinny sounding, stupid "tool"less gas/oil caps that never closed properly. way too expensive. I rate it 1 out of 10

tried the Husky 338XPT (for two months, 8 hours daily). great saw. well made. great ergonomics, torquey, fast, easy to maintain, light, air filter never clogged up. A bit pricy but worth it 10 out of 10

but the best i've tried (and currently run) are the little echo 330T. inexpensive, well made, durable, torquey 9after muffler mod) , carb is easy to tune, very well balanced, very ergonomic handle, lightwieght , great chainbreak, fast cutter after swapping stock chain to an woodsmanPro. 10 out of 10


keep in mind the only thing i use a climbing saw for is limbing on the way up. 
hate my opinion i dont give a ????. i dont give a goodgodamn if i offend the Stihl crowd. I simply did not like or enjoy using that saw. nuff said.


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## rahtreelimbs

As you can see there are a lot of opinions here...............go with what you like................it is your money to spend!!!


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## Slvrmple72

Take down a tree with a handsaw like they used too and you will appreciate whatever chainsaw you prefer to use. I look at it this way. Stihl has held there own for quite a long time but if the rest of the competition starts to catch up and make better quality/performing stock saws the leader will have to rethink/ redesign from scratch. It will be a whole new ball game then. I am a firm believer in innovative design. Make the saw strong where it needs to be and liteweight with the ideal combination of composite plastics, steel, and alloys then test the everloving heck out of it. After that listen to the customers. If they are tired of crap that does not hold up to year after year of hard use then change it. That warranty card is your entitlement to :censored: if the manufacturer has let you down. Our dollars are hard won and they cannot sit back on their laurels expecting to rake in the money. I work my saws hard and I take good care of them. I have not done this long enough to reach a verdict on the whole Stihl/ Husky debate but I have aired my grievances to both manufacturers when they have let me down and their responses to me as a customer weigh heavily on new equipment purchases. Hopefully somewhere the "Preston Tucker" of chainsaw design is hard at work ready to set the industry on its heels. Until then, badger the hell out of 'em and if that dont work stop buying their junk. Just make sure you let them know even if it takes sending the piece of :censored: back in a box.


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## 046

finally scored a MS200T... runs strong, good balance. but I could say the same for my 335XPT w/muffler mod. 

I like em both


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## 2FatGuys

046 said:


> finally scored a MS200T... runs strong, good balance. but I could say the same for my 335XPT w/muffler mod.
> 
> I like em both



I, for one, am GLAD you like your 200T! I scored a GREAT 335 due to that!

Thanks...


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## B-Edwards

The way husky screwed thier dealers by going to Lowes and other outlets . I will never buy another husky . Stihl ms200 owns that husky pos . I guess you can tell I have an attitiude after they screwed thier dealers the way they did.


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## 2FatGuys

B-Edwards said:


> The way husky screwed thier dealers by going to Lowes and other outlets . I will never buy another husky . Stihl ms200 owns that husky pos . I guess you can tell I have an attitiude after they screwed thier dealers the way they did.



Talk about closed minded... I guess your market was a sales only profit center. Being in NC, you missed a huge opportunity! Husqvarna Forest & Garden is based in Charlotte. I know of two dealers that have profitted tremendously from the "big box" sales. They have become "refurbishment dealers" and "authorized service centers". Maybe your attitude is due to a bad business plan. The dealers I know aren't doing too bad. They know that there is a difference between a "big box" 359 and a "dealer only" 357XP. Those who buy the most chainsaws, parts, accessories, and equipment usually don't do that through the big box stores. The big box stores just created a larger market for authorized repairs, etc.

As for calling the 335 I just got a "pos", until you have run it, you have no basis for that statement. My guess is you've never held a stock 335, much less one modded like this. It's OK to have an opinion, but expressing it with such passion and anger discounts your opinion in the minds of many. Talk facts and maybe people will listen.


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## gavin

i bought a very lightly used husky 338xpt for a good price, got the muffler modded at the walker's saw shop, and now it outcuts a stock 200t. i love the balance and feel of it. it runs great, idles great, cuts great, but now its got some serious bark to it.

bottom line is i love my 338. the muffler mod made a huge difference - well worth it.


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## oldirty

both are tremendous saws. the 2hunge is a monster for takedowns.

while the 338 is also solid at takedowns you will need to switch to a bigger saw sooner than you do with the 2hunge. that said the handling of the 338 is great for pruning and trimming. 

i own and run both. you cant lose with either saw but the 338 is my back up.


----------



## Mitchell

*I can verify*



gavin said:


> i bought a very lightly used husky 338xpt for a good price, got the muffler modded at the walker's saw shop, and now it outcuts a stock 200t. i love the balance and feel of it. it runs great, idles great, cuts great, but now its got some serious bark to it.
> 
> bottom line is i love my 338. the muffler mod made a huge difference - well worth it.



it was my stock 200t that it outcut, guess ill have to mod my 200 there gav


----------



## hornett22

*you either don't climb.................*



a_lopa said:


> im not one for rules skwiril but top handle saws should be banned,there little death traps IMO.
> 
> im personally convinced using a bigger saw is far safer IMO what you do is up to you if you want to be one handing because you "can"its not my problem



or are a complete fool.


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## pbtree

hornett22 said:


> or are a complete fool.



Amen!


----------



## Mitchell

*one handing*

Every now and then I one hand my pistol grips saws to; we cant ban everything. One handing is a necasary evil of chain saw use aloft. LIke anything dangerous its about risk managment and limiting exsposure. 

The forest industry here is going through a similar "fuzzy logic, the road to hell is paved with good intentions" process with dangerous tree removal. No one is allowed to work around dangerous trees so they have to be removed. The dangerous designation criteria for a tree is low for laibility reasons. Instead of soemone doing some low impact work around a dangerous tree for a half hour with a spotter some poor smuck [used to be me] has to go and fall the sketchy thing. Whats more dangerous....


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## OLD CHIPMONK

Speaking as an old former certified technician ( John-Deere-Poulan- Husky-Sthil- Homelite- Honda- B & S - Tecumseh - Kohler - Tanaka - Generac - McColloch & a few others . All the current saws are a difficult repair. They are very hard to dissassemble & reassemble. Diagnosis is difficult & parts are many. Under warranty, repair times ( saw that has been in the field & dirty ) are too low. Posted ( warranty repair times ) are arrived at using a new saw, tear down & reassemle, on shop workbench,all tools laid out w/ air available. They do this numerous times & then post the best time & use it in the mechanic's shop repair manual. So much for that view. I purchased a brand new 338xpt Husky for $359.00 on-line. Free shipping & no sales tax. It came with a 14 in. bar & chain. I personally would rate it right along side the Sthil competitor. Just an old opinion from an old guy !!!!


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## hornett22

*i like the stihl 200t.*

i haven't used the newest version on the 338 so i can't say anything bad about it.i had a 335 cali and it was ok.i rebuilt the carb when i sold it and it seems like it really screamed when i adjusted it.before that it was just ok.

i opened the muffler up on my 192t and played with the carb.it's ripping pretty damn good right now.i took an oak down last week and i never had the 200 sent up once.went right to the 346 and 372 on the bottom stalk.i'm glad that 192 didn't sell on ebay.i really like it.


----------



## B-Edwards

I wasn't a saw dealer and am not now. I have used saws for 25 years and climbing saws more than larger saws for the past 20 years. I stated I have an attitude toward husky. I shouldnt even respond to this because it usualy means here we go again. I have used the saw you mentioned, I own one and imho it's a pos compared to MS200. husky screwed thier small independent dealers and that has alot to do with my thinking. I have no relation to anyone who was a husky dealer . Its all about the dollar and if your making it, it was a good decision in your opinion. That's cool and this aint a pissing contest and I wont respond to any comment you want to make. I am only stating my thoughts if they bother you (go make another dollar) and forget what I said ,you'll live longer anyway.


----------



## oldirty

OLD CHIPMONK said:


> I purchased a brand new 338xpt Husky for $359.00 on-line. Free shipping & no sales tax. It came with a 14 in. bar & chain. I personally would rate it right along side the Sthil competitor. Just an old opinion from an old guy !!!!



thats a great price for that saw man! you won on that round.


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## 2FatGuys

Wow! Awesome price on the 338! Congrats!


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## 2FatGuys

Just thought I'd pass along that my "POS" 335 performed amazingly well today! While some people may doubt it, I was out-cutting my friend and his 200T. My thanks to "046" for the saw and the mods.


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## 046

thanks... glad you like it!!

here's a few pic's of simple muffler mod, enlarged to 85% of exhaust port. actually a copy of Walker's 335 muffler mod. carefully set with Snap-on tach. 

really woke up 335XPT


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## pgg

I'm on pruning saws 5 days a week usually, have been for years and seen all makes and models come and go, echos, oleo macs, stihls and the xpt huskys, personally I prefer the husky over the 200T for various reasons - but still, as commercial saws, you can't go wrong with either


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## (WLL)

i have used saws long enough to say one thing, huskys :censored:, and there top handles are even worse!!!!


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## pbtree

(WLL) said:


> i have used saws long enough to say one thing, huskys :censored:, and there top handles are even worse!!!!



This statement indicates you have not used saws nearly enough, as they both make some pretty darn good saws, and they both have made some pretty sorry pieces of junk...


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## Scots Climber

I have used both and all you need to do is look at my sig...

The 338, I find to be unbalanced and doesn't run inverted (I know that is a very unusual requirement) but my 020 does everything very well. The Stihl also has a better power band and more torque.

All in all a better bit of kit IMHO.


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## ronnyb

Used to use Husky until they wouldn't stand behind their products. Had a brand new 338 that wouldn't oil. Took about 7 or 8 times in the shop before they rebuilt it. We bought 200Ts, and now the Husky sits on the shelf.


----------



## ThrottleKnob

I don't know if anyone here has had the chance to compare the Husqvarna 338XPT 45cc and the 39cc version (California Emissions Compliant), I would just like to share my opinion. As far as going against Stihl's MS 200T, I'd say the pricing for the German unit may be higher, but you have paid for reduction in weight, cutting flexibility, reliability, and for the company's ads. The Swedish one though, I could vouch for the cutting power, and the way it handles/keeps itself clean when cutting palm trees. But I'm talking about the 33XPt 45cc edition here.

Somehow, the Swedes messed up. While the 45cc was a clumsier alternative for almost $100++ less to the 200T, if you ignore the weight and ergonomics, it was a remarkable top handle chainsaw - performance wise. Then they reduced to power to 39cc here in California to comply with the emissions standards. 

I understand it was supposed to be just an engine modification in their production line but as of September 2007, I started noticing that out of the box after you install the bar and chain, put the cover back in and tighten the nut, the moment you torque it deep enough the bolt tip shows up, the chain does not move anymore. It seems locked. We reset the brake and back again. Same thing.

We started one anyway, revved it up full. The noise went over 100 db, chain was barely moving, and it started to smoke around the clutch drum cover. We noticed that the clutch drum bites against the retainers supporting the brake leaf spring/strap on the cover. 4 retainers/stubs that are molded as part of the clutch cover casing, to be specific. In fact, we have seen the marks on the stubs (orange paint came off, cast aluminum surface shines) where the clutch drum rim hits. We had to Dremel each one carefully and file it down to allow the clutch drum to move freely.

Contacting Husqvarna, I was told that there was a case of bad molds from the production line. That warranty will be issued for those we are returning, but... the ones we Dremel'd were okay to release to the customers. Now, either for technical or ethical reasons, I would NOT want to be the person releasing an equipment modified to be different from the production specs. There are liability issues there and the consequences will be a pain to deal with. As far as making the dollar goes, I'd rather lose a few now than lose customers later. Although I consider my customers my friends, I'm pretty sure it won't get in the way of them from filing a lawsuit from a case of a brake strap failure or an exploding clutch cover.

For over a year I have had many requests for the 338XPT from local counties, state parks, cities and landscaping maintenance firms with Husqvarna national accounts (yes, big ones with more than 200 branches nationwide). Husqvarna has not changed anything or did anything about the 338XPT clutch drum-case cover issue, including informing independent dealerships. For what I have seen alone, that would be at least 29 338XPT units. The latest being Dec 23, 2008. Still having the same issue.

I have not cancelled out the possibility that I might be missing something that makes me think the 338XPT CA emissions compliant 39cc is defective right out from the factory.  I took a boxed unit to other Husqvarna certified technicians and they all have the same opinion as I had. Even the Husqvarna rep told me to return them all and have warranty coverage be issued.

I want o know if anyone else at all is having the same problem. :monkey:


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## l2edneck

newb said:


> Ford vs Chevy. Its a matter of taste. There both good saws just depends what side of the fence the guy your asking is standing on. I run all Stihl equipment because





post 3 was enuff for me to quit reading....

Only thing both parties agree on is which is better!


----------



## fishercat

*who cares?*



Kneejerk Bombas said:


> Hey neighbor.
> Top handled saws tend to encourage one handed use, which greatly increases cuts to the other hand and arm, plus, it reduces the control in a kick-back event. A lot of guys get cut one handing.
> I bet you could find a half dozen stories on cuts by 020s just in the last few weeks, just on these few boards.



they are big boys.they are responsible for their own actions.mind your own business stop trying to save everyone from themselves.liberals are bad enough but Madison Libs are the worst.


----------



## pbtree

ThrottleKnob said:


> I don't know if anyone here has had the chance to compare the Husqvarna 338XPT 45cc and the 39cc version (California Emissions Compliant),



Odd - 

Husky shows the CA version as the 45 CC... Been that way for quite a while as I recall...

CA version

EPA version


----------



## ThrottleKnob

pbtree, odd-that's what I thought, too. The first batch we had was September '07.

I didn't even get to notice the change to 39cc after March '08 when we started to have requests for the 45cc XPT CARB III compliant version from Florida, Washington, even Utah (our units ship from Salt Lake  ), and to as far as Canada. We have had people wanting to bring it to Ireland.

But we are supposed to check everything and start it before releasing it to customers, so we can't either sell them online, or have somebody purchase it boxed to take on a plane (airline restrictions on flammable liquids).

For now anyway, the MS 200T are selling good as some cities are getting new budgets or are trying to spend the remaining of their '08 ones. Most prefer getting new units rather than spend $240 for an engine block assy. to replace ones they borked (scratched pistons, cylinders, or a fused crankshaft).

The Husky 338XPT has it's own fans, still. It's not about pricing - as they would rather spend over $100 extra over the more practical Stihl MS 192T or Echo's CS-341 - I mean, they're cutting only palm, ficus or magnolias. In about a week from now, I will be receiving new units. I'll be taking pictures and posting them as soon as I get the chance..


----------



## Stihl Alive

when you want my 200T, you can come pry it from my cold, dead, severed fingers.


----------



## wvlogger

gumneck said:


> let's get ready to rummmmmmmmbbbbbbbbbbbblllllllllllllllllllleeeeeeeeeee !!



agree :agree2: :agree2: :agree2:


----------



## ropensaddle

rbtree said:


> Yo Bull....No way is he a troll, look at the mod pics he included.
> 
> And, over the years, I've run many Huskys, some stock, some modded, some just muffler modded. Years ago, I had a bone stock one that would hold its own with 020's ( or better). The others were also close--when they ran... Now, I run all ported XPT's, versus only muffler screen removed on the 200T. They're all close, except for the one 335, that I got from rich hoffman in pieces, which is still going strong 3 years later, and still easily beats the 200t. Thee 338 that I had woods modded by dozerdan still underwhelms, which is one reason why I have yet to get another 338.....
> 
> Currently, the ones I have all start and run reliably. There's still a few of the old nagging problems left....flimsy plug cover that must be taped on (this looks to be remedied on the new saws.) starter rewind that sometimes binds....
> 
> I think one reason why so many think the 200 is a much faster saw is the way it runs...higher rpm and quicker acceleration..and easier to start.
> 
> There's both good saws, but, as I've stated many times, I prefer the Huskys....and I'm not alone.
> 
> As far as the .250 chain goes, it could well be stronger, as the shorter parts may be less likely to break. The .375 low pro is fine if run smoothly by a good operator, and if the tie straps haven't been filed into. I haven't run .250 in 25 years. It's a darned good chain, much smoother cutting, but sure has a lot of cutters to sharpen!



I liked my 335 better than my new 200 t as it already has problems. My 335 never had a problem but finally got dropped from sixty foot on concrete and did it in! The husky dealer was out of top handles so I got the hyped up 200t and now wish I would have bought two huskies


----------



## ropensaddle

l2edneck said:


> post 3 was enuff for me to quit reading....
> 
> Only thing both parties agree on is which is better!



Well everyone knows the older pre 80 fords where the best!


----------



## Scrat

Hey can any of you clearly explain the husky muffler mod in detail. As well as supply some pics. Would love to try it out on a 334T.
Much appreciated


----------



## pbtree

ropensaddle said:


> I liked my 335 better than my new 200 t as it already has problems. My 335 never had a problem but finally got dropped from sixty foot on concrete and did it in! The husky dealer was out of top handles so I got the hyped up 200t and now wish I would have bought two huskies



I love my 335 Rope - I agree with you completely


----------



## 046

welcome to AS... learn to use the search function... tons of info buried
here ya go.... http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=14129&highlight=335+muffler

had zero problems with my old 335xpt... sold it due to all the 200T hype, which turned out to be pretty much accurate. 

but in no way does 200T's performance take away from a good running 335xpt. loads of folks had all sorts of problems with their 335's. not me... 

seems there's only a tiny handful of folks that report good results with 335xpt. most lean in 200T's favor. 

performance wise... my old 335xpt with muffler mod ran just a crack under a stock 200T. both 200T and my old 335xpt were good dependable saws. 




















Scrat said:


> Hey can any of you clearly explain the husky muffler mod in detail. As well as supply some pics. Would love to try it out on a 334T.
> Much appreciated


----------



## huskystihl

rahtreelimbs said:


> Some like the 338 some don't! From what I have heard the 338 is not much of an improvement over it's predecessor 335. For me there has not been enough positive feedback to buy a 338.
> 
> The 020T/220 may be square and an ergonomic brick but there is no denying the stellar reputation and loyal following that the 020T/200t has!



I have the jonsered 2135 and a 200t and performance wise they are pretty darn close, in fact flip a coin. One place they aren't close is price. Now granted they are my moneymakers so price isn't a huge deal but I could buy 2 2135's to one 200t. I can't sapeak for a 338 but if you can find a 2135 i'd buy it in a flash or even 2.


----------



## tree md

ropensaddle said:


> I liked my 335 better than my new 200 t as it already has problems. My 335 never had a problem but finally got dropped from sixty foot on concrete and did it in! The husky dealer was out of top handles so I got the hyped up 200t and now wish I would have bought two huskies



Just the opposite for me. I got my 200t about three years ago and have done nothing to it but change the spark plug and fix the pull cord. I've dropped it twice (about 20' is the furthest). I love that saw! It's the first one I have used that won't bog in crotch cuts on large limbs. 

I have only used a cheap husky in the tree and was not impressed. I'd like to check out a 338 or 335 just to compare.


----------



## ropensaddle

tree md said:


> Just the opposite for me. I got my 200t about three years ago and have done nothing to it but change the spark plug and fix the pull cord. I've dropped it twice (about 20' is the furthest). I love that saw! It's the first one I have used that won't bog in crotch cuts on large limbs.
> 
> I have only used a cheap husky in the tree and was not impressed. I'd like to check out a 338 or 335 just to compare.



Yeah it seems their quality is all over the place sorta a expensive crapshoot. I guess if you got a good one your going to be happy. I liked mine for power when it ran right but that was a mere belch in the expected life of a pro saw. I for one will not make that mistake again.


----------



## tree md

When I was younger I opted to buy a husky over an 020 because I could almost buy three for the price of a stihl. I bought a 142. I actually bought two of them. Man, that was the worst climbing saw I have ever run. The air filter cover was constantly falling off and it would stall when it got hot. I have run some good huskies on the ground but that 142 broke me from buying them for climbing saws. I was on the econo plan back then and was doing everything I could to save pennies. After that I went to an echo in the tree, then a 192 and finally broke down and bought a 200. I had used the 020's back when I worked for other services and always wanted one. They do cost though. If I could find something that would compare to the 200 for less money I would jump on it. I have yet been able to do so.


----------



## 2FatGuys

046 said:


> had zero problems with my old 335xpt... sold it due to all the 200T hype, which turned out to be pretty much accurate.
> 
> but in no way does 200T's performance take away from a good running 335xpt. loads of folks had all sorts of problems with their 335's. not me...
> 
> seems there's only a tiny handful of folks that report good results with 335xpt. most lean in 200T's favor.
> 
> performance wise... my old 335xpt with muffler mod ran just a crack under a stock 200T. both 200T and my old 335xpt were good dependable saws.



046 - - - 

I'll just pass along that your "old 335" is STILL a dependable saw! And I, for one, am GLAD that you sold it!

I climb with it frequently.

Thanks...


----------



## tree md

2FatGuys said:


> 046 - - -
> 
> I'll just pass along that your "old 335" is STILL a dependable saw! And I, for one, am GLAD that you sold it!
> 
> I climb with it frequently.
> 
> Thanks...



I'm running a couple of 046's saws as well. He knows his stuff and will treat ya right. 

BTW, he's a pretty good treeman too... When he wants to be. I think he prefers to turn wrenches though.


----------



## huskystihl

I just got in for the day and my 200t went caput again. It keeps having some metering arm issue and even though it's out of warranty the dealer is replacing the carb for free because the problem was noted out of the gate. For what it's worth the 2135 finished the job and never missed a beat and I have to say that saw is really growing on me. Balances well with a 12" bar and plenty of pep and seems feather light, and that cheesy air filtration continues to amaze me on how it doesn't let anything in.


----------



## ageniusforhire

*drouins opinion*

i think drouin is an escavator, who bought saws cause trees were in the way of his equipment. He thinks top handle saws are a liability, because he doesnt know saws. Or a darn thing about climbing a tree with a saw. Yes, standing in a dozers bucket with a top handle saw can be a problem. 
Climbing with a rear handle saw will get you killed quick. Rear handles saws like the stihl 440 are only used in a tree when you are blocking down large logs the top handled ones wont reach through. 
As far as 338xpt vs 200t, i like the 200t best. 
Most of you are youngsters. When i started climbing, the only top handle saw was the green poulan s25, then came the orange poulan s25da pro.
The s25 didnt even have a chain brake, just a round aluminum handle, that always spit out the bolt. And when you hit the kill switch, one of 3 things happned. The saw stopped, the saw continued to run, or the saw shocked the hell out of you and got flung from the tree you were in.


----------



## ageniusforhire

*impossible??*



Koa Man said:


> I have two 020Ts and two MS200Ts and recently acquired a MS192T. I have been trying it out the past two days and it is a very good saw. The fuel consumption seems to be much less than that of the MS200T, unless Stihl made the fuel tank bigger. In any case, if I was to buy another climbing saw today, I would go and buy the MS192T for $279 instead of the $459 for the MS200T.
> 
> I have been one handing top handle saws for 20 years and never had an accident or even a near accident in that time. Just watch where the tip of your bar is and no problem. You should know where your bar tip is even with a rear handle saw. It is impossible for a saw to kickback if the tip does not contact anything.



Hit a nail in a tree just at the right angle, and the saw will kick back, sometimes real hard, reguardless of where the bar tip is. Kickback does not come ONLY from bar tip contact.


----------



## BlackenedTimber

ageniusforhire said:


> i think drouin is an escavator, who bought saws cause trees were in the way of his equipment. He thinks top handle saws are a liability, because he doesnt know saws. Or a darn thing about climbing a tree with a saw. Yes, standing in a dozers bucket with a top handle saw can be a problem.
> Climbing with a rear handle saw will get you killed quick. Rear handles saws like the stihl 440 are only used in a tree when you are blocking down large logs the top handled ones wont reach through.
> As far as 338xpt vs 200t, i like the 200t best.
> Most of you are youngsters. When i started climbing, the only top handle saw was the green poulan s25, then came the orange poulan s25da pro.
> The s25 didnt even have a chain brake, just a round aluminum handle, that always spit out the bolt. And when you hit the kill switch, one of 3 things happned. The saw stopped, the saw continued to run, or the saw shocked the hell out of you and got flung from the tree you were in.



Find me a dozer with a bucket and I will be more likely to believe all of the above.

Dozers have blades, loaders have buckets. In the rare instance that you run into a Cat 963 or similar (which is a track loader) then yes, you have tracks with a bucket, but that ain't a dozer.

For the record, I love a 200T, but i climb with everything from an 026 to an 066 which are rear-handled saws, and I'm still kicking...


----------



## BlackenedTimber

ageniusforhire said:


> Hit a nail in a tree just at the right angle, and the saw will kick back, sometimes real hard, reguardless of where the bar tip is. Kickback does not come ONLY from bar tip contact.




In response to koa man, it is not impossible for a saw to kick back unless the tip hits "something". Yes, that is the main cause, but impossible is a stretch.

Also, I wouldn't buy a 192 if my nuts were on a chopping block. Yes, the 200T is expensive, but you get what you pay for. Not even worth wasting money on a 192. Its like buying a 290 Farmboss when you really need a 361. Yes, they both do the same thing, but a Ferrari and a Datsun both do the same thing too... get you from A to B. However, one is a lot more fun and efficient to operate.


----------



## fishercat

*192 is a great saw*

if you adjust the carb.​
I love mine.tried several Husky climbing saws, old 338xpt,new 338xpt,335xptc.got rid of all of them as fast as I could.

The new t435 is a different story.I love that damn saw! I haven't used the 192 or the 200 since I got the t435. the Stihls just sit in the job box on the truck.I guess I should probably dump the fuel out of them soon.

At the moment,I am not using any equipment with Flippy Caps! oh life is wonderful!


----------



## lone wolf

a_lopa said:


> both should be banned top handled saws are a liability.



Really do you or should anyone climb with a regular handle saw and do you think that is as safer?


----------



## lone wolf

ropensaddle said:


> Yeah it seems their quality is all over the place sorta a expensive crapshoot. I guess if you got a good one your going to be happy. I liked mine for power when it ran right but that was a mere belch in the expected life of a pro saw. I for one will not make that mistake again.



I am quite surprised you were not happy with the stihl. I have 6 of them and I can tell you they work good.I do admit they have carb problems.


----------



## pgg

I prefer the husky over the stihl, some do, some don't, with a few small mods the husky is a full pound lighter and and more comfy to use than the 200, here's the husky pruning a tree, 30 trees an hour on a ground prune is an average speed, the XPT and 200T are by far the best saw for this job, all cuts have to be smooth with no feathering and flush with no bark damage and all annoying little green shoots removed, both pro saws run smoothly with a solid feel and low vibes, reliable as all hell (anyone claiming the 200T isn't reliable is away with the fairies and doing something drastically wrong), have plenty of pep and power, they put out around 1.6 - 1.7KW with instant trigger response, the Echos and various other non-pro TH saws all feel coarse, unresponsive and sluggish compared

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3kERhDkOdc


----------



## The Count

if you have a Stihl and a Husky you need different mix
one is 1:50
other 1:30
they run at different rpm

or so I`ve heard


----------



## ThePruner

The huskies just feel right in the hands when you're using them. Everything seems intuitive.


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## The Count

I know that one is better than another; just don`t know witch one;
unfortunately there are only side takers....


----------



## 2FatGuys

telepatique said:


> if you have a stihl and a husky you need different mix
> one is 1:50
> other 1:30
> they run at different rpm
> 
> or so i`ve heard



false...


----------



## The Count

explain; 
you may think that the oil differ. and if mix oil and gas according to given ratio you can run it on both saws....is that it ?


----------



## 2FatGuys

Telepatique said:


> explain;
> you may think that the oil differ. and if mix oil and gas according to given ratio you can run it on both saws....is that it ?



It would be easier to explain if you could quote your sources. I have (and have had) a large collection of saws: Husqvarna, Stihl, Shindawa, Echo, and others. EVERY saw I've owned in the past 20 years has had the same mix ratio specs. Where are you seeing different specs?


----------



## The Count

my source is the Husky dealer. he claimed that Husky oil mix is 30 ml/liter
and that some folks bought Husky saw and then Stihl oil and that damaged the saw due to different working pattern of the saw
stihl oil is 1:50 (20 ml/ liter)
I don`t know if being from Europe is a factor, or the specs of the gas but this is what they told me (there were dwo different dealers from two stores)

in the end, as you may see, I said "so I`ve heard"
if i`m wrong, I stand corrected.
and I`m glad I found out I was lied to.

cheers.

I found this:
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/forest/support/video-library/
you seem to be right.
however I will do some inquiring in my area to see what`s wrong.
If there is anything else than the dealers are complete idiots, I`ll get back to you.


----------



## lone wolf

I run my husky at 50 to one along with all my stihls. I did not burn up yet.


----------



## The Count

if 1:50 says on the prospect, my best guess atm is that either they were selling cheaper oil, not Husqvarna make or they didn`t knew better or they were trying to trick me not to go to Stihl.
pfff. all that for 1L oil


----------



## lone wolf

Telepatique said:


> if 1:50 says on the prospect, my best guess atm is that either they were selling cheaper oil, not Husqvarna make or they didn`t knew better or they were trying to trick me not to go to Stihl.
> pfff. all that for 1L oil



I use stihl HP ultra


----------



## oldirty

ThePruner said:


> The huskies just feel right in the hands when you're using them. Everything seems intuitive.



you were doing alright up to here.....


----------



## Bigus Termitius

Stihl 200T. I smile everytime I run that little booger.

Hey rope, stop putting husky gas in your stihl....lol....just kidding. 

I'll trade you your 200 for my 335. It's in pieces, but all there, was working on oiler when I bought the 200. deal?


----------



## Treetom

*200t*

I have 3 200t's and 1 338xpt, the latter which sits on a shelf with the carb off. Never had to bother putting it back on. The first 200t sees work daily, mostly takedowns. The second is back up, which is rarley needed. The third comes out of it's case mainly for video shoots. I ran the 335's and the 338xpt's for four or five years. Nice little trim saws when they ran. A couple years ago I broke down and bought a 200t to see what all the buzz was about on this site. I haven't run the 200t's as long as the Husky but I don't foresee going back to the Husky top handles. Though I may poke a hole in the muffler on the 338 and see what happens.


----------



## 2FatGuys

Treetom said:


> I have 3 200t's and 1 338xpt, the latter which sits on a shelf with the carb off. Never had to bother putting it back on. The first 200t sees work daily, mostly takedowns. The second is back up, which is rarley needed. The third comes out of it's case mainly for video shoots. I ran the 335's and the 338xpt's for four or five years. Nice little trim saws when they ran. A couple years ago I broke down and bought a 200t to see what all the buzz was about on this site. I haven't run the 200t's as long as the Husky but I don't foresee going back to the Husky top handles. Though I may poke a hole in the muffler on the 338 and see what happens.



Treetom... I'll be glad to take that POS 338 off your hands for you. I won't even charge you a disposal fee. Just carefully package it and send it to me...


----------



## The Count

I think I may be able to prove Husky oil 1:30
tomorrow i`ll go take down an old ash (so I was told)
and there is a can of oil; i`ll take some pics if so.


----------



## ThePruner

Will be waiting patiently :-D


----------



## climber96

buddy of mine has about 7 or 8 200t's all with different ages all running like new i ve got one and they are the best climbing saw....period!:chainsawguy:


----------



## jefflovstrom

climber96 said:


> buddy of mine has about 7 or 8 200t's all with different ages all running like new i ve got one and they are the best climbing saw....period!:chainsawguy:



How many do you think I got? And yeah, they are the best.
Jef


----------



## ropensaddle

jefflovstrom said:


> How many do you think I got? And yeah, they are the best.
> Jef



Brawhaha then we are all introuble


----------



## jefflovstrom

ropensaddle said:


> Brawhaha then we are all introuble



You are crazy, Rope. Ya'll gettin any rain there?
Jeff


----------



## The Count

2FatGuys said:


> false...









no coment.


----------



## 2FatGuys

no coment.[/QUOTE]

I don't care what a bottle of oil mix says! I go by the instructions in the saw's owner's manual. That oil could be dacades old. Back in the 1980's, several different mix's were used. But I can tell you that the manual that came with the Husqvarna 50 that I bought in 1989 syas 1:50. And that saw is still running strong.


----------



## Treecutr

I gotta say, I love the 200T. I tried a Shindawa ( crap ) I'll never use that again. STIHL!

Also, I can't believe there is someone shoe doesn't like TH saws, never mind thinking big saws are easier and better in trees??? WTH?? Really? Sounds like someone who opened his mouth, said the wring thing, knew it, but doesn't want to admit he made a mistake. Proper tool for the job, a hammer to drive a nail, not a sledge hammer to drive a nail!


----------



## jefflovstrom

Treecutr said:


> I gotta say, I love the 200T. I tried a Shindawa ( crap ) I'll never use that again. STIHL!
> 
> Also, I can't believe there is someone shoe doesn't like TH saws, never mind thinking big saws are easier and better in trees??? WTH?? Really? Sounds like someone who opened his mouth, said the wring thing, knew it, but doesn't want to admit he made a mistake. Proper tool for the job, a hammer to drive a nail, not a sledge hammer to drive a nail!



Maybe my view, but that cut is looking curved. Looks like a 14" and a guy that is right handed filed the chain. 
Jeff


----------



## lone wolf

jefflovstrom said:


> Maybe my view, but that cut is looking curved. Looks like a 14" and a guy that is right handed filed the chain.
> Jeff



Anyone that cant file 14 inch chain and get it to cut straight should not even bother!


----------



## jefflovstrom

lone wolf said:


> Anyone that cant file 14 inch chain and get it to cut straight should not even bother!



Yup, guy's that are right handed seem to go lighter on the left side. Don't get me wrong, they do a great job on the right side and even the rakers, but I have found that if you use your left hand to do the left side, it matches up much better.
Jeff


----------



## The Count

2FatGuys said:


> no coment.



I don't care what a bottle of oil mix says! I go by the instructions in the saw's owner's manual. That oil could be dacades old. Back in the 1980's, several different mix's were used. But I can tell you that the manual that came with the Husqvarna 50 that I bought in 1989 syas 1:50. And that saw is still running strong.[/QUOTE]

I believe you; however two different dealers in my area told me the same 1:30
if you were in my shoes wouldn`t that bother you? not a bit ? being a noob and all?

could it be that for Romania the saws are made different ? it seem unlikely to me too. I`ll inquire some more.
also lots of husky users say not to put red mix in Husky.
However I did find online oil with 1:50 prospect...


----------



## Treecutr

jefflovstrom said:


> Maybe my view, but that cut is looking curved. Looks like a 14" and a guy that is right handed filed the chain.
> Jeff



Curved?? BRAND NEW chain, just out of box, all cut and drop on this cherry, I didn't cut it straight, but given the saws not far into the wood how can you think/tell curved? Only thing I can think is that I started the cut, stopped saw to turn on camera and set it, then started cut again, maybe that makes it look curved??


----------



## jefflovstrom

Treecutr said:


> Curved?? BRAND NEW chain, just out of box, all cut and drop on this cherry, I didn't cut it straight, but given the saws not far into the wood how can you think/tell curved? Only thing I can think is that I started the cut, stopped saw to turn on camera and set it, then started cut again, maybe that makes it look curved??



Yeah, you are right. I must be seeing things.
Jeff


----------



## The Count

I think the chain is loose a little bit. maybe it got hot and expansed a bit. when it rotates, gets a bit further from the bar giving the impression.. well, you know.

could that be it ?


----------



## lone wolf

I think the cut was not square to the trunk but the cut through prob was straight.:chainsawguy:


----------



## Bigus Termitius

Made me look twice....still doesn't look right. It seems to be an optical illusion. Something with the camera? The edge of the road and even the power lines seem somewhat curved in an unnatural way as well. The road might have a natural slight curve, but the lines don't look right either.


----------



## Treecutr

It might be the camera. I looked harder again too, the outer edges of image do appear a little curved, maybe because camera is/ was so close to cut?? Videos come out great. Audio sucks beyond close up. In some vids you can only hear me resond to an inaudible second person. It's the Drift X170


----------



## beowulf343

Treecutr said:


> Also, I can't believe there is someone shoe doesn't like TH saws, never mind thinking big saws are easier and better in trees??? WTH?? Really? Sounds like someone who opened his mouth, said the wring thing, knew it, but doesn't want to admit he made a mistake. Proper tool for the job, a hammer to drive a nail, not a sledge hammer to drive a nail!



Whoa now, that's a pretty strong statement for someone who's 200t clearly has thousands of hours on it. I actually had to check if you were talking about a post i made in this thread, because i'm one of the guys who prefer a rear handle in a tree. Between a 338 and a 200t, the latter is a better saw, and that's coming from a husky man. However, i'd still rather take up a 346 for trimming. (No, that wasn't a mistake.) Just because it's a personal preference thing, doesn't mean it's wrong. 
Personal reasons i like a rear handle in a tree versus the 200t:
1. That handle is too small for my hand. It honestly sits during the winter because my hands are too big with gloves.
2. I've always hated the snap attachment for the 200t. I like having a little bigger biner on my saddle that just snaps into the rear handle. Less fiddling around for me.
3. We work all winter long. I like heated handles on my saw. Setting chain slings that've been dragged through the snow makes gloves uncomfortable very quick. My saws get a hard enough workout that the handles help combat uncomfortable fingers all day long. Getting a 200t with heated handles is impossible around here, all the dealers carry heated rear handle saws though.
4. I'm a husky guy but stihl's top handle is better. Unfortunately, the last time i went to get parts from my local stihl dealer for my 200t, he asked me what a 200t was. So because dealer service for me is better with husky and they make a second rank climbing saw, i stick with their rear handle.
5. I've never liked my hands that close together on a saw, has just never felt comfortable for me. 


Now, i'm not dumping on the 200t, i've owned a half dozen myself over the years and they are an awesome little saw. But i don't like the fact that you state that bigger saws aren't easier or better in trees and also state that the right tool should be used for the job. I hate to tell you this, but for all climbers the 200t isn't the right tool for our job. I go up with a 395 every day. 357xp has been my little saw for years now. But you don't see me dumping on you because you use a baby 200t, do you? And i've seen many guys using a 200t to chunk a stem that a 441 would do in a third of the time.

You know, you got a big mouth on this subject for someone who's 200t is obviously fresh out of the box. I've flat worn out four 200t's in the air, why don't you wait until you've run at least a dozen tanks of gas through yours before criticizing those of us who prefer rear handle.


----------



## Bigus Termitius

A mentor of mine doesn't run a t handle at all for many of the same reasons. Been getting along for 25 years just fine without one.


----------



## Treecutr

beowulf343 said:


> Whoa now, that's a pretty strong statement for someone who's 200t clearly has thousands of hours on it. I actually had to check if you were talking about a post i made in this thread, because i'm one of the guys who prefer a rear handle in a tree. Between a 338 and a 200t, the latter is a better saw, and that's coming from a husky man. However, i'd still rather take up a 346 for trimming. (No, that wasn't a mistake.) Just because it's a personal preference thing, doesn't mean it's wrong.
> Personal reasons i like a rear handle in a tree versus the 200t:
> 1. That handle is too small for my hand. It honestly sits during the winter because my hands are too big with gloves.
> 2. I've always hated the snap attachment for the 200t. I like having a little bigger biner on my saddle that just snaps into the rear handle. Less fiddling around for me.
> 3. We work all winter long. I like heated handles on my saw. Setting chain slings that've been dragged through the snow makes gloves uncomfortable very quick. My saws get a hard enough workout that the handles help combat uncomfortable fingers all day long. Getting a 200t with heated handles is impossible around here, all the dealers carry heated rear handle saws though.
> 4. I'm a husky guy but stihl's top handle is better. Unfortunately, the last time i went to get parts from my local stihl dealer for my 200t, he asked me what a 200t was. So because dealer service for me is better with husky and they make a second rank climbing saw, i stick with their rear handle.
> 5. I've never liked my hands that close together on a saw, has just never felt comfortable for me.
> 
> 
> Now, i'm not dumping on the 200t, i've owned a half dozen myself over the years and they are an awesome little saw. But i don't like the fact that you state that bigger saws aren't easier or better in trees and also state that the right tool should be used for the job. I hate to tell you this, but for all climbers the 200t isn't the right tool for our job. I go up with a 395 every day. 357xp has been my little saw for years now. But you don't see me dumping on you because you use a baby 200t, do you? And i've seen many guys using a 200t to chunk a stem that a 441 would do in a third of the time.
> 
> You know, you got a big mouth on this subject for someone who's 200t is obviously fresh out of the box. I've flat worn out four 200t's in the air, why don't you wait until you've run at least a dozen tanks of gas through yours before criticizing those of us who prefer rear handle.



Lol, ROFLMAO. I just bought that saw last month, so where you get the clearly part amazes me, it's the ONLY 200T I own, have a couple 020T's. And my post you quoted was referring to ALopa, saying theat TH saws were a liability and not easier to use, back on the first couple pages pf this post. I disn't even know you made a comment, wow touchy. Just found receipt for the NEW 200T, purchased 10-25-10 at PLT in Pittsfield, Ma at about 3pm, paid cash, want a copy of the receipt?? Very well put post though, I prefer the TH's, my hands don't really get cold, never even thought about a heated handle. We have both Husky and Stihl dealers here, the Husky guy is getting tired of them because he said" they're acting like they have no competition" he went into too much detail but, whatever. The Stihl guy I go to does both, but is great with stihl. I am still getting a chuckle out of the thousands of hours thing, lol.

Just noticed the bottom of your comment, so which is it thousands of hours or new???? So because I finally had the money up to get a 200T, I'm not allowed a comment?? So the years of using my 020T's, and 192T's don't mean anything I guess? Why did you decide to single me out anyways. I simply was suprised that people didn't prefer a TH saw. I've gone through 4-5 TH saws, been cutting wood my whole life, hell, I'll bet I'm one of only a few guys here, if any, who used a Stihl in Iraq !!! LOL Maybe you need to relax a little. Damn man


----------



## beowulf343

It's called sarcasm. I know from looking at it that the saw is brand new and know you just bought it from previous posts you've made. That's why i was wondering what makes you an expert concerning what type of saw to use in the tree. Did you notice the last paragraph.
For a guys who claims to be quick witted, you sure are slow.



Treecutr said:


> I'm pretty smart, so if you wish to continue, feel free, I'm awefully quick witted.



Why did you get singled out? Because the tone of your post wasn't one of surprise, it was a "you're making a mistake not using a top handle." I was attempting to point out that rear handles aren't mistakes for everyone.


----------



## Treecutr

beowulf343 said:


> It's called sarcasm. I know from looking at it that the saw is brand new and know you just bought it from previous posts you've made. That's why i was wondering what makes you an expert concerning what type of saw to use in the tree. Did you notice the last paragraph.
> For a guys who claims to be quick witted, you sure are slow.



LOL, I get the sarcasm, relax.What are you stalking me on here, LOL I had to look back through all 10 pages of this thread to see if somehow I said this directly against you, nope, your attack on me was the first, so I don't know what your deal was for that. I too use a rear handled saw when it calls for it, and they're just clumsier to ME is all. Forgive me for trying a little humor with the nail comment. What makes you an expert anyways?? Age? I NEVER claimed I was an expert, so since you came after me for using a little humor, what do you have in mind for all the other people who posted on the subject? Why just me?? What spawned this anyway?


----------



## pdqdl

a_lopa said:


> im not one for rules skwiril but top handle saws should be banned,there little death traps IMO.
> 
> im personally convinced using a bigger saw is far safer IMO what you do is up to you if you want to be one handing because you "can"its not my problem



Nonsense.

I have been doing treework for many years, and have had a few injuries over the years. Statistically speaking, just from my own experience, the injuries from larger two handled saws are more frequent and more severe.

Reasons?
1. Two handled saws are more often handled by the newbie on the ground that has less experience and training.
2. The top-handled saws are most often restricted to the most skilled cutter.
3. When a top-handle saw is in use, it is most often in an aerial situation, and the operator is typically a lot more concerned about careless follow-through of the bar. They are certainly more worried about needless kickback, since they are often right next to the cut.
4. In the aerial situation, there is seldom a second person nearby to accidentally hit with the saw.
5. When a climber is doing one-handed cuts, they are usually done at arms length, away from the climber. When doing one-handed cuts, I know I am MUCH more focused on keeping the saw away from any of my hide, which I do very seldom.

Granted, these are comments that are more related to the general category of use for the top handled saws, and they are not specific to a top-handled vs two-handed saws comparison in the same setting. But fatigue is probably the second greatest contributor to chainsaw injuries (following poor training/technique), and fatigue of climbers would be greatly increased without the light powerful top-handled saws.

To each his own.


----------



## jefflovstrom

You guy's just mis-read or mis-interputed each other. No harm, but maybe Tree should get rid of that last part of his sig. It feels like an invitation to argue. Just saying.
Still mellow Jeff


----------



## Treecutr

jefflovstrom said:


> You guy's just mis-read or mis-interputed each other. No harm, but maybe Tree should get rid of that last part of his sig. It feels like an invitation to argue. Just saying.
> Still mellow Jeff



Probably right, but I don't have a signature, at least not that I know of, LOL


----------



## beowulf343

Treecutr said:


> LOL, I get the sarcasm, relax.What are you stalking me on here, LOL I had to look back through all 10 pages of this thread to see if somehow I said this directly against you, nope, your attack on me was the first, so I don't know what your deal was for that. I too use a rear handled saw when it calls for it, and they're just clumsier to ME is all. Forgive me for trying a little humor with the nail comment. What makes you an expert anyways?? Age? I NEVER claimed I was an expert, so since you came after me for using a little humor, what do you have in mind for all the other people who posted on the subject? Why just me?? What spawned this anyway?



My problem with you? Ok, this won't be popular, but twice now just recently, when someone says something you don't like, you have to bring up Iraq or the fact that you are a veteran. What is with this need for recognition over the fact that you've served your country? I'm appreciative of our veterans, yes very. This country wouldn't be as great as it is without our veterans. But i personally know guys who've done much more heroic stuff than you in the service of their country that don't feel the constant need for recognition. True heroes didn't do what they did for the recognition. 
But you want recognition, ok, fine. Treecutr, thank you for serving our country. Your deeds make some consider you as a hero, and i only hope my son can grow up to be as fine an American as you so obviously are. 

Now, can we argue about something without you trying to make me feel guilty for picking on a veteran? You prefer top handle, i prefer rear handle. We disagree, who cares, i stated my reasons, you stated yours. Disagreement is the nature of this site.

Lol, the age thing. Just because i'm a couple years younger than you doesn't mean i've only been doing treework professionally for about a year.


----------



## jefflovstrom

Treecutr said:


> Probably right, but I don't have a signature, at least not that I know of, LOL



Sorry, my bad.
Jeff


----------



## ropensaddle

What in the Sam Johnson has been goin on in here, did I miss sumpin ps: stihl sucks


----------



## jefflovstrom

I also am a veteran. Navy. We were in the Persian Gulf around the time of the election in 1980 waiting for Carter to leave so we could get the 50 hostages out when Carter lost. Me, I didn't know much, I was a Boiler Tech. 
Jeff 
USS Anchorage; LSD-36


----------



## jefflovstrom

ropensaddle said:


> What in the Sam Johnson has been goin on in here, did I miss sumpin ps: stihl sucks



Who is Sam Johnson? :hmm3grin2orange:
Jeff


----------



## ropensaddle

jefflovstrom said:


> I also am a veteran. Navy. We were in the Persian Gulf around the time of the election in 1980 waiting for Carter to leave so we could get the 50 hostages out when Carter lost. Me, I didn't know much, I was a Boiler Tech.
> Jeff
> USS Anchorage; LSD-36



So you have fun first time crossing equator?:monkey:


----------



## jefflovstrom

ropensaddle said:


> So you have fun first time crossing equator?:monkey:



Three times a Shell-Back. Rope!!! Never a Polywog!
Jeff


----------



## ropensaddle

jefflovstrom said:


> Three times a Shell-Back. Rope!!! Never a Polywog!
> Jeff



Lol


----------



## jefflovstrom

When we got back in port, I had my gear at my parent's house and could usually make 50 bucks a day!. For me it was good. Yeah, we were the first ship allowed in Malaysia after something to do with China. 1980 in Malaysia was the first time I saw Rugby played. Awesome.
Jeff


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## jefflovstrom

Oh yeah, I turned down my first set of orders to Rota, Spain and crossed my fingers for San Diego! I was lucky, huh! Most guys stayed on board cause they were from your neck of the woods. I was back home- for a while, 
OK, I will shut up.
Jeff


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