# Modding the new MS201T - The truth inside



## blsnelling

It seems like every review I see on these is less than stellar. The more bad I heard, the more I wanted to get my hands on one. So that's exactly what I did. I went out and bought one this morning just to get the lowdown on them for myself and see what's really up with them.

I'll start out with some pics.


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## blsnelling

Here it is starting up for the first time. Throttle response was very poor at first. Once it warmed up, I tuned the L a littler and it was much improved. I then headed straight out and dropped a small Locust tree with it. I found out that it wanted the L set on the lean side. If not, it would sometimes load up a little at idle and stumble, or even die, when you blipped the throttle. Leaning out the L really seemed to help this.


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## blsnelling

I then did some cuts on the stand with it still bone stock. After that, I began the process of modding the muffler. Removing the spark arrestor screen on this muffler does not give you another port as the 200T does. So, I drilled a hole in it. 











As you can see here, the plastic must be trimmed.










Here's the finished product.


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## blsnelling

Of course, this meant the limiter must be removed on the carb. Theres a rod that must be drilled out that prevents you from pulling out the metal limiter. It was very easy to drill out, with no damage to the carb at all.




















Hmmm, looks like a MS261 in there.


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## blsnelling

Now for the timed cuts. 

The muffler mod made a significant difference in this saw. In the vid, I'm showing you how it runs with light, medium, heavy, and very heavy loads. These are not all meant to be representative of the saws best cut times. When I throw out those cuts just made for demonstration, and take the best couple of times, the muffler mod was good for a 22% gain.

I then proceeded to advance the ignition timing. I had a strong hunch that this was a big piece of the puzzle. I was right. The saw picked up another 20% over the muffler mod alone. It is now nearly 38% faster than stock!

Of course, everyone wants to know how it compares to a 200T. With a muffler mod only, they're dead even. With the timing advanced on the 201T, it was 20% faster than a muffler modded 200T! Would the 200T pick up another 20% with some timing advance? I don't know. That wasn't part of this test.

Once both the muffler was modded and the timing advanced, throttle response seems as snappy as a 200T, IMHO. 

As I figured, a lot of what we're hearing is less than dependable for those looking to purchase one of these. With proper tuning, they run well, even in stock form. Once modded, they are a phenominal saw, as I suspected it would be.


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## blsnelling

Post away. I'm headed out to help my brother gut a big buck. He took his 12 year old sun out for the youth gun hunt today. This was his sonse very first time out hunting. As luck would have it, he has shot a big buck


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## mountainlake

Good info, how much did you advance the timing? If the 201t gained wieght it's cuz of those obnoxtious carb adjustment screws. Steve


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## pops21

Is there any harm that can occur from the timing advance over a long period of time? I wounder how the filtration would stack up aginst the husky air injection? I know there has been a few demo's on youtube but I believe they were using the 200t. I for one just by watching those videos was floored by the difference.


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## lone wolf

Well with all things being even like both saws stock with a muffler mod how do they compare ? Does it use a blue coil?


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## porsche965

I can feel CAD again....


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## stihl ms

well, now I have to go out and buy a 201t. I always wanted a new top held saw. cad hits me again :smile2:


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## Metals406

Brad, did you shave half the key for your advance?


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## stubnail67

*great video!*

very cool!!!enjoyed the videos!!!glad im broke makes me wanna go buy one LMAO!


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## sgrizz

great review brad!  My 200t is 2 months old with 6 tanks of fuel thru it and was running 14,900 and the high speed screw was max from the factory . You are correct on what a little tunning will do for the saw to run better.


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## indiansprings

Great thread Brad, provides a great service to many members. It sure shows how much unlocked potential this little saw has.


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## super3

Dammit,post a pic of the buck!


Nice work on the saw.


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## blsnelling

lone wolf said:


> Well with all things being even like both saws stock with a muffler mod how do they compare ? Does it use a blue coil?


They were dead even with muffler mods only.



stihl ms said:


> well, now I have to go out and buy a 201t. I always wanted a new top held saw. cad hits me again :smile2:


This one's for sale. I've done what I wanted with it.



Metals406 said:


> Brad, did you shave half the key for your advance?


Yes.



super3 said:


> Dammit,post a pic of the buck!


Can you believe this! Today was the very first time he ever hunted deer. He's 12 years old. My brother had to wake him up and hand him the shotgun, lol. He rolled over in the prone position and shot with only one hand on the gun. Took out a lung! Talk about lucky! Inside spread is 19". The main beams are 21". G2s are 8 1/2". Field dressed it weighed 173#. Butchered, except for the quarters, weighed 85#. All told, he should have right at 75# of meat. We figure it weighed 200# on the hoof. It was a blast to be there and experience this. My Dad made it as well. We then all skinned and butchered it together. All of the kids had a great time, including the girls! They all wanted to get in on cutting and handling the meat. It was a super enjoyable evening with the family.


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## blsnelling

I'll offer these mods for $50 + shipping. If interested, I can also supply the saw. A new modded saw would run you $625 + shipping. This wasn't the goal or point of this thread, but I hate to see a saw run at less than it's potential. I'm selling this first one for actual cost, $575 + shipping.


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## Brian VT

Nice deer and great family participation.
Lots of my buddies go to Ohio to hunt the big boys that grow there.


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## Rudolf73

I knew you could 'fix' the 201T Brad, good work :msp_thumbup:

Regarding the muffler mod, can the muffler be opened up while still using some sort of spark arrestor?


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## Blakesmaster

blsnelling said:


> I'll offer these mods for $50 + shipping. If interested, I can also supply the saw. A new modded saw would run you $625 + shipping. This wasn't the goal or point of this thread, but I hate to see a saw run at less than it's potential. I'm selling this first one for actual cost, $575 + shipping.



PM me your address again when you get the chance, Brad. I'll have mine in the mail early next week. I assume you won't need the B & C, just the powerhead?


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## blsnelling

Rudolf73 said:


> I knew you could 'fix' the 201T Brad, good work :msp_thumbup:
> 
> Regarding the muffler mod, can the muffler be opened up while still using some sort of spark arrestor?


I'm sure you could fab something up. Just make a piece of metal that fits in there with the same size hole. Screw it down with a piece of screen sandwiched in between.



Blakesmaster said:


> PM me your address again when you get the chance, Brad. I'll have mine in the mail early next week. I assume you won't need the B & C, just the powerhead?


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## gcsupraman

blsnelling said:


> I'll offer these mods for $50 + shipping. If interested, I can also supply the saw. A new modded saw would run you $625 + shipping. This wasn't the goal or point of this thread, but I hate to see a saw run at less than it's potential. I'm selling this first one for actual cost, $575 + shipping.



How about for a 201 rear handle? No extra metal in the crankcase please 

-Greg


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## blsnelling

gcsupraman said:


> How about for a 201 rear handle? No extra metal in the crankcase please
> 
> -Greg



Are they available yet? I haven't kept up with them. I can get a price for you if you're interested.


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## blsnelling

This saw is spoken for. I'm just happy to get the truth out there and show you guys what's really up with these. It's not everyday you can get almost 40% gains from a saw without porting!


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## pgg

awesome, that's how they should run, that thing responded to a simple hole bunged in the muffler, snappy as, for a work saw I wouldn't advance the timing, on a 200 anyway, they're hot-rodded enough stock, howling engines on small saws can get tiresome, although the advanced 201 still seemed civilized enough. The untouched 201 in the first vid was so sluggish and spongy you'd almost think it was an Echo, no wonder people were unimpressed


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## angelo c

The legend of the 200t lives on....


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## wyk

pgg said:


> awesome, that's how they should run, that thing responded to a simple hole bunged in the muffler, snappy as, for a work saw I wouldn't advance the timing, on a 200 anyway, they're hot-rodded enough stock, howling engines on small saws can get tiresome, although the advanced 201 still seemed civilized enough. The untouched 201 in the first vid was so sluggish and spongy you'd almost think it was an Echo, no wonder people were unimpressed



Did you just go on record stating a brand new top of the line Stihl behaves like an Echo?


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## captain

Great post Brad,

What was the size of the stock muffler opening vs your modded opening?? 

Did you measure the port area at the cylinder? Curious if you are close to the 85% port area opening or beyond that.

Thanks again for the post.


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## CWME

Thanks for putting your time and $ on the line to figure this out.


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## lone wolf

blsnelling said:


> I'll offer these mods for $50 + shipping. If interested, I can also supply the saw. A new modded saw would run you $625 + shipping. This wasn't the goal or point of this thread, but I hate to see a saw run at less than it's potential. I'm selling this first one for actual cost, $575 + shipping.



Wait a minute it aint even broke in yet so how do you know what the potential cutting time will be?


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## lone wolf

angelo c said:


> The legend of the 200t lives on....



I hope so i have so many of them!


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## blsnelling

pgg said:


> awesome, that's how they should run, that thing responded to a simple hole bunged in the muffler, snappy as, for a work saw I wouldn't advance the timing, on a 200 anyway, they're hot-rodded enough stock, howling engines on small saws can get tiresome, although the advanced 201 still seemed civilized enough. The untouched 201 in the first vid was so sluggish and spongy you'd almost think it was an Echo, no wonder people were unimpressed


Since I did all thise yesterday, another member made timed cuts with his 200T. He then advanced the timing, a little less than I did on the 201, and it actually slowed the saw down a little. Not every saw responds the same.



angelo c said:


> The legend of the 200t lives on....


Yes it does. With a little modding, the 201 is both faster and stronger than it's predecessor.



captain said:


> Great post Brad,
> 
> What was the size of the stock muffler opening vs your modded opening??
> 
> Did you measure the port area at the cylinder? Curious if you are close to the 85% port area opening or beyond that.
> 
> Thanks again for the post.


I don't get hung up on port area and all that any more. I do what I think looks right and run with it. Works for me.



lone wolf said:


> Wait a minute it aint even broke in yet so how do you know what the potential cutting time will be?


It can only get better from here It doesn't even have 2 tanks of fuel through it yet.


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## blsnelling

A couple things I haven't mentioned here. 

The 201T is limited to 13,350. I never actually saw that will revving the saw, but that's what the tach recorded as max RPM. I only saw 13,200 or 13,200. It's tuned well past the limiter, so tuning in the wood is required. I tune it rich, and then slowly lean it out, cut after cut, until I'm comfortable where it is.

The 201 is torquier, or has a wider powerband, than the 200. The 200 doesn't like to be pushed on as much as the 201. The fastest cut times with the 201 were always with a heavy load. I'd love to put one of these in a full time arborists hands and get there feedback. Matter of fact, I'd like to do so with one of those that previously said they were crap.

And to the person that said their mechanic modded the muffler, retuned the carb, and that it made no improvement and throttle response was 1-2 seconds..............I say bah humbug You need a new mechanic, lol. Even in stock for, it's not that bad. It's really a shame they don't run closer to this from the factory. They've left so much easy meat on the bone that it's not funny.


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## rymancm

As Brad mentioned, I advanced the timing on my 200t 6 degrees and it actually slowed the saw down 5%. There is some margin of error, but it definitely did NOT make the saw cut faster. Here are the videos. I would love it if someone else tried this test to confirm or disconfirm my results. It's not hard to do and you can reverse it afterwards (which i did). 

[video=youtube;BaD5v2M6kl4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaD5v2M6kl4&feature=feedu[/video]

[video=youtube;VmBzDSaj4Jo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmBzDSaj4Jo&feature=feedu[/video]


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## blsnelling

rymancm said:


> As Brad mentioned, I advanced the timing on my 200t 6 degrees and it actually slowed the saw down 5%. There is some margin of error, but it definitely did NOT make the saw cut faster. Here are the videos. I would love it if someone else tried this test to confirm or disconfirm my results. It's not hard to do and you can reverse it afterwards (which i did).



Nice work


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## blsnelling

Mmmm. We'll be eating good tonight


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## Motorsen

*Mmmmm.*



blsnelling said:


> Mmmm. We'll be eating good tonight



You are a man with many talents. And a great family. Think you should bring forward alot of respect to your nephew from AS members.
Have a nice feast.

Motorsen


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## RTK

Good to see the young involved with the great sport of hunting and enjoying the outdoors as it should be enjoy, Oh, nice job on that saw too


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## blsnelling

This is the best venison I've ever eaten. We're all trying to imagine a gamey flavor to it, and it's simply not there. This was a farm grown deer though.

Last night was fantastic. I'm as guilty as anyone else with getting busy and not spending time with the family. Last night was very cool. Everyone wanted in on the action. My nephew and his cousin, the ones that shot it, were whittling away on the carcass. My 12 year old daughter was skinning the legs, lol. My 8 year old niece wanted to take every piece of meat as we cut it off. It was really neat the way it brought everyone together. Now we're all up in the kitchen like a bunch of scavengers around the meat plate


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## gcsupraman

blsnelling said:


> Are they available yet? I haven't kept up with them. I can get a price for you if you're interested.



It's on the website....haven't seen one in person yet. 

Just noticed it has the easy start 

Let me see how I make out with the MS200 and will go from there - Im trying to hold out in hopes of a 241C M-Tronic

-Greg


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## RES

I learned something today about how to advance timing. It was mentioned that you file the key as much as half the thickness. i assume that is done on the portion that engages the flywheel. Is there any danger that the flywheel may shift later? How is it normally done, file, dremel tool?


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## rymancm

RES said:


> I learned something today about how to advance timing. It was mentioned that you file the key as much as half the thickness. i assume that is done on the portion that engages the flywheel. Is there any danger that the flywheel may shift later? How is it normally done, file, dremel tool?



That is correct. Only file the portion that engages the flywheel and leave the bottom part that sits in the crankshaft full width. My method was to seat the key in the crankshaft, mark the side with a razor blade, then put the key in a vise and hand file (i think the key is hardened but you are removing so little that a file works fine) down to the mark on the side and across to the desired thickness (ie: 1/3, 1/2 etc.) I don't believe the flywheel will shift once it's bolted down but someone else may know better. An offset key would solve the shifting question but i don't know if one is available.


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## SCHallenger

blsnelling said:


> Are they available yet? I haven't kept up with them. I can get a price for you if you're interested.


They are. I saw one at my dealer's place about 10 days ago.


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## RTK

On a good tapered friction fit the key is only as an indicating guide to line things up. The key does not stop rotation at all if everything is made correctly


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## RES

I would hate to hack up a new saw just yet by modifying the muffler and carburetor, but I would not mind advancing it a bit. Do you think I would gain any benefit by just doing the advance without the other modifications. The thing that bothers me the most is the flat spot that I experience when applying throttle at a moderate rate. If I apply throttle quickly, it seems to skip over the flat spot.


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## rymancm

RES said:


> I would hate to hack up a new saw just yet by modifying the muffler and carburetor, but I would not mind advancing it a bit. Do you think I would gain any benefit by just doing the advance without the other modifications. The thing that bothers me the most is the flat spot that I experience when applying throttle at a moderate rate. If I apply throttle quickly, it seems to skip over the flat spot.



Mod the muffler first, then worry about the timing. All you have to do is bore a hole in the thing so, really, it's less invasive than pulling the flywheel etc. You won't regret it, and you can always do more later.


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## blsnelling

RES said:


> I would hate to hack up a new saw just yet by modifying the muffler and carburetor, but I would not mind advancing it a bit. Do you think I would gain any benefit by just doing the advance without the other modifications. The thing that bothers me the most is the flat spot that I experience when applying throttle at a moderate rate. If I apply throttle quickly, it seems to skip over the flat spot.



I would not advance the ignition without removing the carb limiter first. I fail to see how a small hole in the muffler and a small neat trim of the clutch cover is hacking the saw up, especially when you benefit much improved throttle response and nearly a 40% gain in power. All you're doing to the carb is drilling out a small rod. It really depends how much you dislike putting up with a saw putting out that much less power than it should be.


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## RES

OK you have me convinced to make the modifications. Of course the warranty goes out the window for whatever that is worth. Is there any concern that a modified saw will not last as long as a stock saw? At present the procedure that I use to adjust a carburetor is to start with the factory recommendations for the L & H screw setting. I then adjust the idle for smoothest. I then adjust the H screw for maximum RPMs. At this point I richen the H screw until it begins to four-cycle and then slightly lean the H screw. If the throttle response is poor, I would then richen the L screw a bit. Would you follow the same procedure for a modified saw? Also what diameter hole did you drill in the muffler?


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## F250Hank

Do you think you could work the same magic on the MS362?


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## ipkyss

blsnelling said:


> A couple things I haven't mentioned here.
> 
> The 201T is limited to 13,350. I never actually saw that will revving the saw, but that's what the tach recorded as max RPM. I only saw 13,200 or 13,200. It's tuned well past the limiter, so tuning in the wood is required. I tune it rich, and then slowly lean it out, cut after cut, until I'm comfortable where it is.
> 
> The 201 is torquier, or has a wider powerband, than the 200. The 200 doesn't like to be pushed on as much as the 201. The fastest cut times with the 201 were always with a heavy load. I'd love to put one of these in a full time arborists hands and get there feedback. Matter of fact, I'd like to do so with one of those that previously said they were crap.
> 
> And to the person that said their mechanic modded the muffler, retuned the carb, and that it made no improvement and throttle response was 1-2 seconds..............I say bah humbug You need a new mechanic, lol. Even in stock for, it's not that bad. It's really a shame they don't run closer to this from the factory. They've left so much easy meat on the bone that it's not funny.




After talking to my guy again. He said he pulled the screen but didn't mod the muffler. Retuned it. And the gains were not worth voiding the warranty on the same. My 201t is sitting in the shop not being used as no one want to use it. I am not trying to dog the saw. I'm just upset with the saw for the money spent compared to my years of 200t and 020 use. 

To the guy that compared the 201t to an echo. That is exactly what ever person that has picked mine up said including the boss that has been cutting for over 40 years.

PM me your address. I will gladly ship you my saw with a check for the work to be done and return shipping. The point of my original post a few weeks back was to get someone out there to dig into these saws and get them working.


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## Smittysrepair

F250Hank said:


> Do you think you could work the same magic on the MS362?



I have seen some of Brad's work and I believe he could modify anything to run better.


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## blsnelling

ipkyss said:


> After talking to my guy again. He said he pulled the screen but didn't mod the muffler. Retuned it. And the gains were not worth voiding the warranty on the same. My 201t is sitting in the shop not being used as no one want to use it. I am not trying to dog the saw. I'm just upset with the saw for the money spent compared to my years of 200t and 020 use.
> 
> To the guy that compared the 201t to an echo. That is exactly what ever person that has picked mine up said including the boss that has been cutting for over 40 years.
> 
> PM me your address. I will gladly ship you my saw with a check for the work to be done and return shipping. The point of my original post a few weeks back was to get someone out there to dig into these saws and get them working.



Funny what motivates a guy sometimes. Tell me a saw doesn't run good and what do I do, I go buy one, lol. 

Pulling the screen on the 201 does not open a hole in the muffler like it did on the 200. You're still left with one tiny hole, and must drill another in the side to make a difference. Once you do that, and retune, it'll run like a 200 with the screen pulled. Advancing the ignition timing makes as much difference, making it pull well ahead of a 200.


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## ipkyss

I also want to say that my saw is no where near what the saw in your first video is. The response from mine hot is like that one is cold. And I mean before you started to play with it. I am looking forward to see what you can do.


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## dts99

so my 020t has finally had enuf, i want to buy the 201t and do these mods, im really unsure about the timeing and the limiter. the last couple of pics is that the pin that needs to be filed down or the limiter , im a decent mechanic but have never attempted to mod a carb on a saw, i had never even heard of it till i started researching this saw, mufflers sure no problem but can you post a pic of what and where to file down?


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## epicklein22

Bought a near new 201t off CL this weekend and just did the mods earlier tonight. Went 3/8" inch on the muff mod, and filed about half the key away. Don't know how many degrees that is, any guess??? I'm eager to see how it runs tomorrow at work. I still think the throttle response is a little crisper on my 200t when comparing the two in each hand, but it's damn close. I'll see what I can do with the tuning. 

While I love the 200t, this saw looks like a better designed and built machine. Hopefully the carb problems don't carry over. I see they have went back to conventional seals instead of that bakolite crap. I'm now wondering if those 201t seals will fit a 200t.


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## blsnelling

I hope it runs good for you. The biggest tip I can give on the tuning is to tune the L quite lean. If you don't, it'll stutter and possibly even die when you blip the throttle after idling a bit. Lean out the L and it will quit this. The H has to be tuned in the wood, like any rev limited saw. What makes it hard is that the limiter kicks in pretty early on these, making it very hard to make sure you're not into the limiter, thinking it's 4-stroking.


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## porsche965

blsnelling said:


> I hope it runs good for you. The biggest tip I can give on the tuning is to tune the L quite lean. If you don't, it'll stutter and possibly even die when you blip the throttle after idling a bit. Lean out the L and it will quit this. The H has to be tuned in the wood, like any rev limited saw. What makes it hard is that the limiter kicks in pretty early on these, making it very hard to make sure you're not into the limiter, thinking it's 4-stroking.



Lot's of wisdom in what he just said. Especially in the caution concerning the limiter kicking in early. Mine seems to come on around the 13,000 range, way early. But tuned accordingly they really run well, especially this one from Brad.


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## epicklein22

blsnelling said:


> I hope it runs good for you. The biggest tip I can give on the tuning is to tune the L quite lean. If you don't, it'll stutter and possibly even die when you blip the throttle after idling a bit. Lean out the L and it will quit this. The H has to be tuned in the wood, like any rev limited saw. What makes it hard is that the limiter kicks in pretty early on these, making it very hard to make sure you're not into the limiter, thinking it's 4-stroking.



I did tune it lean, but back it out a little as it didn't seem to restart well. I'll get it dialed in tomorrow at work in the log pile. I like to get my saws warmed up fully before doing any serious tuning. The limiter does seem to kick in fast. Any idea what advance I made by removing half a key way's worth?


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## blsnelling

epicklein22 said:


> Any idea what advance I made by removing half a key way's worth?



Somewhere between 8°-12°. I use a degree wheel to fine tune where I want it.


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## pgg

well, chainspeed must be less on the 201T than the 200T then or are the standard sprockets different, there ain't no limited coil on my 200T's, they rev out to the extreme, lean and mean, if the cylinder fins aren't glowing in the dark you're not running them properly, on these saws more chain speed means less effort cutting small stuff, which is what they're made for anyway. Running 16" bars on tophandle saws is chronically degenerative behavior, but sounds like they're gearing the 201T towards losing zip and gaining chugging power instead. boooriiing


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## blsnelling

With these simple mods, the 201T will be both faster and stronger than a 200T.


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## BULLSPRIG

What kind of rpm are you getting under load?


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## bayard

*201t*

brad, the work you were doing to the 201t.have you done anything diff. to them in the last few months.or did your first mods work out ok.just asking thanks. k


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## blsnelling

bayard said:


> brad, the work you were doing to the 201t.have you done anything diff. to them in the last few months.or did your first mods work out ok.just asking thanks. k



I haven't done one in a while. Nothing's changed though.


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## KenJax Tree

Hey Brad how big was that hole you drilled in the muffler? And did it tach 13,200 in the cut after you leaned it out a little to get 22% gain? Thanks.


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## blsnelling

Just for the record, the owner of every 201 I've modded has loved the saw when they got it back. Some of them are in professional use too. There have been no reliability issues. It's not my fault that Stihl replaced the best top handle saw ever with a saw most hate. Why else do you think 200s sell for such rediculous money on Ebay. When I'm done with my mods on a 201, it finally has the throttle response the user expects, and is stronger than a 200. It's a shame that the saw has to be modded to run like it should have been right out of the box.


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## Ramrod1

I know I should keep my mouth shut....
I'm retired (read old), cut a few cords of firewood in the winter with my buds (read non-proffesional), and last year bought a 201 (rear handle) as a limbing saw. Out of the box, other than starting first or second pull, this saw was almost un-useable. I should have researched this forum before I bought the saw! For 50 bones and a nice senic drive I now have a saw that has great throttle response and surprising power for it's size, thanks to Brad.
Oh yeah, I've never met the man personally, just his work.


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## Gologit

Okay...that's enough. I think the guy gets the message. Let's back off and see if things get better.

Sometimes when a guy gets started off on the wrong foot it takes a long time for everybody to get over it. ...but we need to and we need to move on.

I'm deleting all the useless garbage and keeping the rest of Brad's thread intact.

No more arguing...from _either_ side, please.


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## defensiblespace

I recently bought a 201. I runs far worse than the non modded saw in the first post. The lag in the throttle is very noticeable. It also shuts off every time I hang it from my saddle. I can't even seem to break it in, because I just keep going back to my 200. Any ideas what may be causing these issues and how to fix them. Thank you.


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## Brushwacker

If you have a warranty, use it, otherwise it sounds like you could be running lean which needs corrected otherwise you would risk engine damage if you continue and use it.


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## fir

Im new to this tread but we have a 201 at work. I use it and I am into moding saw I can't leave anything stock. We have two other arborist that use the saw. How much did you advance the timing. The shop did the muffler on it but I think they hacked it open way too big. It has poor response but I think its a real good saw. Nice work by the way.


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## MreeceC

I would love some detail on the timing advance. Maybe a few pics and what tools that might be needed. 
BTW this is my first post. I want to say that this forum looks well maintained and there are a bunch of good guys with some great knowledge. It great to be apart of what is going on here.


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## blsnelling

All you have to do is remove the flywheel and remove 1/3 of the width of the cast in key, such that the flywheel can be advanced CCW that same amount.


----------



## H 2 H

Welcome to the Jungle MreeceC :cool2:


----------



## Joe Kidd

blsnelling said:


> All you have to do is remove the flywheel and remove 1/3 of the width of the cast in key, such that the flywheel can be advanced CCW that same amount.



And it makes for a strong 35cc. Mine will cut 8-10" rounds with ease, although it can't clear chips very well on the big stuff. This saw likes the L screw on the lean side so if it cuts off at idle, positional idle issues or dies out of the cut, lean the L screw until it improves. It also HAS to be tuned in the cut.


----------



## beastmaster

I am willing but not able to do the timing advance. Call me stupid but I can't get the flywheel off. Is there a special tool? I don't want to brake off some fins or damage something by jamming a screwdriver in it. Do you jam something in the spark plug hole? 
Im not shy about jumping in feet first, but I'd hate to do damage to my brand new saw out of ignorance. A little heads up would be nice. Thanks in advance for any,"positive'' advice.


----------



## tech413

Hi Brad, new to the forum. I have been looking for a new top handle saw for a while. I was wondering if you would be willing to ship a modded saw to Canada? Please let me know. 

Thanks, Adam


----------



## rymancm

beastmaster said:


> I am willing but not able to do the timing advance. Call me stupid but I can't get the flywheel off. Is there a special tool? I don't want to brake off some fins or damage something by jamming a screwdriver in it. Do you jam something in the spark plug hole?
> Im not shy about jumping in feet first, but I'd hate to do damage to my brand new saw out of ignorance. A little heads up would be nice. Thanks in advance for any,"positive'' advice.



Stick a piece of rope in the spark plug hole to stop the piston, then loosen the flywheel nut but don't take it all the way off. Then get a loop of cord/small rope behind the flywheel (easy on the 200T) and hang the saw by the flywheel a few inches off your bench. Then put a socket on the flywheel nut and whack it with a hammer. Should come loose very easily. Don't try to pry the flywheel off with a screwdriver as you may damage something.


----------



## beastmaster

rymancm said:


> Stick a piece of rope in the spark plug hole to stop the piston, then loosen the flywheel nut but don't take it all the way off. Then get a loop of cord/small rope behind the flywheel (easy on the 200T) and hang the saw by the flywheel a few inches off your bench. Then put a socket on the flywheel nut and whack it with a hammer. Shoul id come loose very easily. Don't try to pry the flywheel off with a screwdriver as you may damage something.



Thanks a lot. I am pretty good at machanics and what not, but I'v also messed a few things up everyonce in a while. I was waiting for some instuctions before attemping. Appreciate it
.


----------



## arborjockey

And to think i drove by his house everyday to work. From kettering to Sharonville. I could of dropped my saw off and had it modified. Oh poop.


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

How do you tell when the rev limiter kicks in? I muffler modded, and drilled out the rev limiter pin. I turned the H up till it was screaming, I never did hear it four strokin.


----------



## Joe Kidd

2treeornot2tree said:


> How do you tell when the rev limiter kicks in? I muffler modded, and drilled out the rev limiter pin. I turned the H up till it was screaming, I never did hear it four strokin.



Rev limiter pin? They all are limited around 13k. Hearing it shouldn't be a problem. Done properly this saw HAS to be tuned in the cut.


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Joe Kidd said:


> Rev limiter pin? They all are limited around 13k. Hearing it shouldn't be a problem. Done properly this saw HAS to be tuned in the cut.



when you say tuned in the cut, do you mean to adjust the H setting while cutting?


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Sorry didnt mean rev limiter pin. It was the limiter pin on the H adjuster.


----------



## Joe Kidd

2treeornot2tree said:


> when you say tuned in the cut, do you mean to adjust the H setting while cutting?



Yes but you'll have to richen it slightly to 4-stroke in the cut to achieve a base-line, then lean the H screw in small increments till it just cleans up in the cut. It's not necessary to try to turn the screw while cutting. You can make small adjustments then re-engage the saw in wood. Once it "just" cleans up in the wood, you have reached the "safe" high screw adjustment.


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

can you damage the saw by having the H screw set to high?


----------



## blsnelling

2treeornot2tree said:


> can you damage the saw by having the H screw set to high?



Absolutely. You can burn it up and seize the piston in a hurry.


----------



## Joe Kidd

2treeornot2tree said:


> can you damage the saw by having the H screw set to high?



Yes, there is the potential to lean seize the top end by going too far CW with the H adjustment.


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

I ran a few cuts with it and it wasnt 4 stroking, so i guess i am ok. Guess if it goes bang, I know it was set to high Now I am worried i am gonna f ing up a $600 saw.


----------



## Joe Kidd

2treeornot2tree said:


> I ran a few cuts with it and it wasnt 4 stroking, so i guess i am ok. Guess if it goes bang, I know it was set to high Now I am worried i am gonna f ing up a $600 saw.



Try this. Open the H screw CCW 1/2 turn and listen carefully for "4-stroking" while cutting. If you do, slightly turn it CW just enough so the 4 stroking quits or "cleans up" while cutting. You'll be safe then.


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Joe Kidd said:


> Try this. Open the H screw CCW 1/2 turn and listen carefully for "4-stroking" while cutting. If you do, slightly turn it CW just enough so the 4 stroking quits or "cleans up" while cutting. You'll be safe then.



I will give that a try in the morning. I dont remember which way i turned the H when i was adjusting it so i guess its gonna be trial and error. Hopefully without a boom.


----------



## Joe Kidd

2treeornot2tree said:


> I will give that a try in the morning. I dont remember which way i turned the H when i was adjusting it so i guess its gonna be trial and error. Hopefully without a boom.



Open the H until it runs like chit/rich then start the leaning process. You'll know it when it's real fat(rich).


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Joe Kidd said:


> Open the H until it runs like chit/rich then start the leaning process. You'll know it when it's real fat(rich).



Ok. I will give that a try. Thanks for all the help.


----------



## mp5n

*MS201 coil question*

Ok, we know the MS201T has a limited coil, but so did the MS200T, just not the same limiting style. The old MS200 rear handle saw did not have a limiter. Does anyone know if the new MS201C-E rear handle have a limited coil? If not I’m thinking of a swap here. If anyone has any insight on this I’d like to hear it.

Thanks,
MP5N


----------



## Joe Kidd

mp5n said:


> Ok, we know the MS201T has a limited coil, but so did the MS200T, just not the same limiting style. The old MS200 rear handle saw did not have a limiter. Does anyone know if the new MS201C-E rear handle have a limited coil? If not I’m thinking of a swap here. If anyone has any insight on this I’d like to hear it.
> 
> Thanks,
> MP5N



The C-E is limited as well.


----------



## blsnelling

The 200T does not have a limited coil.


----------



## SCHallenger

*Ms201c_e*

I have the MS201C_E. It is limited, & the limiter kicks in at 13,300RPM.


----------



## mr.finn

This is one thread i wish I never saw. I can't stop watching the videos of the saw being revved up. I want one!!


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Here is some video of me cutting cookies with my modded 201T.

[video=youtube_share;J_Cik103G9M]http://youtu.be/J_Cik103G9M[/video]


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

One more

[video=youtube_share;VNtBMCjdtUM]http://youtu.be/VNtBMCjdtUM[/video]


----------



## gage52

sorry, im confused on the limiter part. once I drill out the rod what exactly do I suppose to remove? just unscrew the whole thing and remove it completely? please excuse my ignorance. thanks


----------



## KenJax Tree

gage52 said:


> sorry, im confused on the limiter part. once I drill out the rod what exactly do I suppose to remove? just unscrew the whole thing and remove it completely? please excuse my ignorance. thanks



Go back to page 1 and look at post #4 1st pic you can see the little hole where the rods was and the limiter that you pull out is stuck on the screw. Then look at the next pic it shows after the limiter is removed


----------



## KenJax Tree

gage52 said:


> sorry, im confused on the limiter part. once I drill out the rod what exactly do I suppose to remove? just unscrew the whole thing and remove it completely? please excuse my ignorance. thanks



If you're worried about messing it up just send it to him to do, he did mine and it screams mine was $50+shipping for everything he did in the video: muff mod,timing advance,and limiter removed.

Not sure if its still $50 PM him for info.


----------



## blsnelling

gage52 said:


> sorry, im confused on the limiter part. once I drill out the rod what exactly do I suppose to remove? just unscrew the whole thing and remove it completely? please excuse my ignorance. thanks



The ONLY you need to remove is the little rod that you drilled out. That simply allows a greater adjustment range for the needle. The saw would not run if you were to remove the needle. It will have to be adjusted after the mods are done. Yes, the price is still $50. I'm actually doing one this afternoon, and did a couple others recently.


----------



## Jlhotstick3

*201 muffler mod*

Hey brad I saw the work you did on the 201, and I'd live to say great job!! I was also wondering if you would mod my saw if I shipped it to you? Thanks


----------



## jmester

*limiter cap removal*

There is an indentation on the cap that if you line it up with the piece you drilled out. The cap you slide out of there. With out any drilling. Great job on the saw. I did some of the same as you with great results. Thanks. Also did you remove the spark screen and put the screw back in. Or leave it in.


blsnelling said:


> Of course, this meant the limiter must be removed on the carb. Theres a rod that must be drilled out that prevents you from pulling out the metal limiter. It was very easy to drill out, with no damage to the carb at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm, looks like a MS261 in there.


----------



## KenJax Tree

Leave the screen out


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

jmester said:


> There is an indentation on the cap that if you line it up with the piece you drilled out. The cap you slide out of there. With out any drilling. Great job on the saw. I did some of the same as you with great results. Thanks. Also did you remove the spark screen and put the screw back in. Or leave it in.



If you dont remove the pin, how do you adjust your high screw up? I may be wrong, but if you remove the plug, how do you stick a screw driver in there to adjust it. 

I drilled mine out, and replaced the part so i could still use a screw driver.


----------



## jmester

*limiter cap*

You can just pull the cap and leave it off. Or Make your adjustments and reinstall. When you remove the pin or the cap you end up with the same results. Just another way. Maybe easier then drilling . Once the cap is removed you can use a small Allen wrench to adjust the screw. Hope that helps or clarifies.


----------



## SCHallenger

*Ms201*

With the alloy sleeve removed from the H needle you need a 2mm allen wrench to make adjustments. It is a royal pain to find your way into the 2mm recess in the needle to adjust. If you remove the alloy sleeve, then push the pin out from the inside, you can re-instal the alloy sleeve so that you have the funnel shaped sleeve to guide you into the slot for easy screwdriver use. It is even easier to simply drill out the pin after which you have nothing to re-instal. I think you have accomplished what you wanted & have the alloy sleeve in place for the easiest way to have unlimited adjustment. If my memory is correct, I used a 3/32in cobalt drill bit to remove the pin. It was a very quick & easy job which took all of 1 minute.


----------



## jmester

*201 t*

You are right in is easier to adjust carb. By drilling out the pin and putting the cap back on. Was just saying another way to do it that's all. Was thinking of the guys who might not want to drill it.


----------



## jmester

*201*

Stihl say 14,000 max high speed, I got 13,100 before the rev limiter kicked in. Do I need to go any higher than that. It seems to run well there.


----------



## angelo c

Anyone have an idea on how many additional turns the adjustment has post limiter removal?


----------



## eric_ssi

*MS201T Customer Appreciation Mod*

Just 'tuned up' a customer's saw. I hope he likes it now.


----------



## SCHallenger

*Ms201*



jmester said:


> Stihl say 14,000 max high speed, I got 13,100 before the rev limiter kicked in. Do I need to go any higher than that. It seems to run well there.



For tuning follow the advice of Joe Kidd in posts 91 & 93. On my saw the limiter kicks in at 13,300, & it is way too rich at that setting. With proper tuning in the wood my saw is bouncing off of the limiter with no load. I can only guess that the no load RPM would be in the neighborhood of 14,000-14,500 if the coil was unlimited. At 13,300 it is heavily 4-stroking in the wood & well below peak power.


----------



## sir fig

*201T Carb limiter*

All you have to do is drill out the limiting pin in the carb body. The pin just rides in a groove in the limit cap. If you leave the limit cap on the jet needle it will keep tension on the needle and will not vibrate loose. You can then use a screwdriver for adjusting. Has anyone tried drilling the muffler at an angle so you will not have to cut the grill on the side of the saw??

Bill


----------



## eric_ssi

*201 H needle*

When my customer first reported that his 201's performance was lack-lustre, I drilled-out the limit stop for the H needle, and fattened 'er up a bit. The puck that sits on the needle itself remained in place, and permitted use of the trusty orange slot-screwdriver for adjusting. 

Once that puck vanished, I found this Torx T8 screwdriver worked nicely. I marked an arrow on the handle to improve accuracy.

I drilled the muffler as shown by Brad. I don't see how drilling on angle would direct the gases up and over the plastics.


----------



## blsnelling

sir fig said:


> Has anyone tried drilling the muffler at an angle so you will not have to cut the grill on the side of the saw??
> 
> Bill



It's sheet metal. That won't work.


----------



## porsche965

No one could talk me out of my Snelled 201T, not even for the price of a NOS 200T. Not the way this runs! :msp_smile:


----------



## sir fig

*re.. Muffler mod*

Just curious, I did not know what size holes or what kind of back pulse the exhaust needed. I dont want to lose the torque. It would be simple to start the hole with a centering drill and finish with a unibit. I guess that an end mill on a 45 or 60 degree angle would work too. Any ideas on what size hole or holes to drill? How many webs do you have to go through?

Thanks,
Bill

Torque get it going,
H.P keeps it there


----------



## eric_ssi

*Hey Mikey... He likes it!*



eric_ssi said:


> Just 'tuned up' a customer's saw. I hope he likes it now.



Just got the report from 'previously dissatisfied' 201 owner. By his non-techy account, it's a completely different saw. Throttle response is off the charts, compared with before. Hot starting is no longer an issue. I sensed what I hope is a tinge of regret at his pre-ordering two T540s.


----------



## Jlhotstick3

*201t muffler mod*

I'm gonna mod my 201 , but after I drill the muffler, how do I tune he carb? Do I match the rims to the factory specs? I'm use to big motors n reading the plug. I kno I have to take the stop out of the collar that stops the h jet from turning to I can adjust that, but I just need to know how to set it to compensate for the hole. Thanks for the help


----------



## Stihl n Wood

Both my 201s are muff modded and advanced timing. After you remove the limiter you need to tune it by ear in wood. Start off really fat so its four stroking in the cut. Then slowly start leaning it out until it clears up while cutting. You dont need to tune while cutting. Just make a cut, tune, make a cut, tune. Until she sounds really good in the cut. Im about to take things a bit further on one of my 201s! Id like to gut the strato completely if possible? Has anyone tried this? I really dont mind if it turns out badly, well I do kinda..lol..but I have a ton of hours on one And dont mind it being my test bunny..haha..I know mastermind built one with a cut squish band and like the 200 im sure there's little to no room for widening ports. So im thinking remove the strato features? Any imputs? Its just a thought....


----------



## Jlhotstick3

*Ms201t muffler mod*

As far as tuning my 201 after the muffler mod, I read that the ignition goes into protect mode after full throttle and needs to reset for 20 sec, is this true? And f so should I wait longer while tuning? Thanks sorry guys I'm new to modding don't mind me


----------



## PainAndMurphy

*umm..*



porsche965 said:


> No one could talk me out of my Snelled 201T, not even for the price of a NOS 200T. Not the way this runs! :msp_smile:




Don'tcha say "Snellerized" ?  LOL!


----------



## PainAndMurphy

*You guys..*

..are probably gonna mock me or wanna ban me.. he he.. :/ - as an experiment, I ran one of my rebuilt 200T's with a 18" LP B&C for limbing small branches but for a long period of time, and to tell you the truth....... if this one handled it like it was a 16" only with simple MM and limiters off of the carb', I wonder how a similarly modded +timing advanced MS-201 would be for this job!!!!!!! 
WOW!! 


Now, 

*please don't kill me* 


lol.. (?) 


Jo.


----------



## eric_ssi

*MS201 module witchery*



Jlhotstick3 said:


> As far as tuning my 201 after the muffler mod, I read that the ignition goes into protect mode after full throttle and needs to reset for 20 sec, is this true? And f so should I wait longer while tuning? Thanks sorry guys I'm new to modding don't mind me



When setting the low side, I was warned to idle the thing for fifteen to twenty seconds after every blast on the throttle, before adjusting. It's a state of advance, to ensure smooth idle-return (and an incredible pain in the ass).

This is what Manuel has to say about it:

View attachment 278767


----------



## Jlhotstick3

Just got my 201 back from brad, what an improvement! Its like a whole new saw , theres midrange responce now and it has balls which is nice, may have changed my mind on the 201.


----------



## eric_ssi

Jlhotstick3 said:


> Just got my 201 back from brad, what an improvement! Its like a whole new saw , theres midrange responce now and it has balls which is nice, may have changed my mind on the 201.



Good! I don't think the engineers in Germany took any delight whatsoever in crippling their new 201. Emissions standards are emission standards, and they had to take steps to make the pricks burn clean. Most notable is the lack of accelerator pump, and that black-magic programming in the module. I find the accelerator pump change most perplexing, considering how over-rich the Low needles are coming out of the test-cell. Germany also didn't communicate very well with USA/Canada in the beginning, further exacerbating the problem.

Reliably 'stratifying' a powerhead as compact as a 200/201 is no easy task, and with the modifications pioneered by Brad, it is indeed a solid product.


----------



## Jlhotstick3

Is there an accelerator pump in the 200? And if so can the carbs be swapped? Jw it really sucks that emissions trickled down to chainsaws.....
Wonder if the 4 stroke in the ht 101
And 131 will ever get into a power head???? That would be sweet.


----------



## eric_ssi

Jlhotstick3 said:


> Is there an accelerator pump in the 200? And if so can the carbs be swapped? Jw it really sucks that emissions trickled down to chainsaws.....
> Wonder if the 4 stroke in the ht 101
> And 131 will ever get into a power head???? That would be sweet.



The 200 has an accelerator pump. Even if the linkages and stuff hooked-up, the 201's split-duct strat system makes carb-swapping a moot point.

Chainsaws and cut-off saws haven't gone four-stroke for a reason, and EFI saws are now a reality. At this point it is simply easier to clean up the emissions of the two-stroke principle than it is to make a four-stroke engine do what is required for this equipment.


----------



## msjanuszkiewicz

*contact info for Brad Snelling*

I do a bit of arborist tree work around home and for friends. I'm currently in need of a new top handle, and I'd like to get one of Brad's modified MS201Ts from him. Can someone give me contact information?


----------



## Rudolf73

msjanuszkiewicz said:


> I do a bit of arborist tree work around home and for friends. I'm currently in need of a new top handle, and I'd like to get one of Brad's modified MS201Ts from him. Can someone give me contact information?



Just private message (PM) him on this site.


----------



## scubadiver721

*ms201 mods*

read your thread and watched the vids over and over again. Very impressive!! I understand all you did and the end results, but how did you advance the timing and how far?


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

scubadiver721 said:


> read your thread and watched the vids over and over again. Very impressive!! I understand all you did and the end results, but how did you advance the timing and how far?



It tells you how in the first couple posts.


----------



## Stayalert

I'm thinking a snellerized 201T will be an improvement over my current climbing saw......a 192TC......Only trouble is...SWMBO (she who must be obeyed) made me agree to sell the 192TC when I got the new saw.......can't wait for the change!!


----------



## Stayalert

Stayalert said:


> I'm thinking a snellerized 201T will be an improvement over my current climbing saw......a 192TC......Only trouble is...SWMBO (she who must be obeyed) made me agree to sell the 192TC when I got the new saw.......can't wait for the change!!



ummm...yeah...... the change is from 192TC>201T.....Not changing spouses......


----------



## KenJax Tree

Stayalert said:


> ummm...yeah...... the change is from 192TC>201T.....Not changing spouses......



Save yourself $250 and get an Echo 355T. I have a 201 Brad did and its a great saw and i have a 355T and i really like using the Echo, but i don't think the little extra power of the 201 is worth $250 more but thats just MO.


----------



## joezilla11

I plan on sending my 201 in to brad after I break it in a little but in the mean time what's the recommended tune on it stock? I follow protocol and wait the 20 secs for adjustments but when I leaned the l screw it seemed to make throttle response worse. I opened it up a bit like the manual says and it got a little bit better but then sometime later I had a hard time just getting it to start. I ended up resetting all settings, then about a full turn rich and adjusted the idle. I set it down I'm too frustrated.


----------



## SCHallenger

*MS201T again*



joezilla11 said:


> I plan on sending my 201 in to brad after I break it in a little but in the mean time what's the recommended tune on it stock? I follow protocol and wait the 20 secs for adjustments but when I leaned the l screw it seemed to make throttle response worse. I opened it up a bit like the manual says and it got a little bit better but then sometime later I had a hard time just getting it to start. I ended up resetting all settings, then about a full turn rich and adjusted the idle. I set it down I'm too frustrated.



Don't worry about waiting for break-in. Send it to Brad right away. I can promise, along with many others, that you will be happy with the results. You will have a great saw to run which will only continue to improve.
SCH


----------



## 7sleeper

Brad and others have mentioned that the newer ones are much better compared to the first ones on the market.

But for me the same counts what KenJax wrote. Why should I buy a saw (which costs more than the rest) and have to send it off to someone to have it modded so that it performs better than the rest and swallow the expenses when the performance gains are subdramatic compared to the what else the market offers!?

7


----------



## SCHallenger

*MS201T again*



7sleeper said:


> Brad and others have mentioned that the newer ones are much better compared to the first ones on the market.
> 
> But for me the same counts what KenJax wrote. Why should I buy a saw (which costs more than the rest) and have to send it off to someone to have it modded so that it performs better than the rest and swallow the expenses when the performance gains are subdramatic compared to the what else the market offers!?
> 
> 7



Makes perfect sense, but he already owns the saw.


----------



## tallguys

SCHallenger said:


> Makes perfect sense, but he already owns the saw.



He could easily sell it for what a new Echo 355T costs. There are enough folks out there who buy Stihl just on the strength of the name.


----------



## KenJax Tree

I have to 201T and 355T i really like both saws but the little in the 201T isn't worth the extra $250 IMO.

201T: $625 OTD+$50 for Brad's mods+$40 total for shipping to and returned from Brad=$715

355T: $449 OTD and honestly doesn't need to be modded to be a great saw and the power and torque isn't far behind the 201T even after the mods but if you read Randy's thread about the 355T there is a little more in there but if you're looking to save $250-$275 and want a saw to just buy and run stock look at the Echo you won't be disappointed.


----------



## blsnelling

7sleeper said:


> Brad and others have mentioned that the newer ones are much better compared to the first ones on the market.
> !?


Actually, if anything, they may seem weaker. The last comparison i did showed something like a 48% increase. I believe that's more than it was early on.


----------



## blsnelling

joezilla11 said:


> I plan on sending my 201 in to brad after I break it in a little but in the mean time what's the recommended tune on it stock? I follow protocol and wait the 20 secs for adjustments but when I leaned the l screw it seemed to make throttle response worse. I opened it up a bit like the manual says and it got a little bit better but then sometime later I had a hard time just getting it to start. I ended up resetting all settings, then about a full turn rich and adjusted the idle. I set it down I'm too frustrated.



I find that most strato saw need the L leaned out for better throttle response.


----------



## blsnelling

SCHallenger said:


> Don't worry about waiting for break-in. Send it to Brad right away. I can promise, along with many others, that you will be happy with the results. You will have a great saw to run which will only continue to improve.
> SCH



Or, follow the directions I posted and do it himself.


----------



## blsnelling

KenJax Tree said:


> 201T: $625 OTD+$50 for Brad's mods+$40 total for shipping to and returned from Brad=$715


$655 shipped if you have me provide the saw. A little more if you're on the other side of the Rockies.


----------



## pdqdl

I just picked up a nearly new 201T at a killer price. I already have four 200T's, and I don't really need that many trimming saws.

I am somewhat keen on keeping/modding the 201T, but I have a lot of years in on the 020/200T line of saws. I have never "modded" a saw, and I was imagining that I might do well at it.

I am seeking a pinch of advice: what would you do? Keep the 201 & mod it, then sell a 200T, or...just let the 201T go at a profit? (maybe mod, then sell?)


----------



## KenJax Tree

I would keep and mod the 201 and sell a 200 being that you have 4.


----------



## Jlhotstick3

If you wanna sell a 200 I'd be interested!! I have both, brad modded my 201 and its a massive improvement over stock, it was $50 well spent and highly reccomended. I still love my 200 tho


----------



## SCHallenger

*MS201T again*



pdqdl said:


> I just picked up a nearly new 201T at a killer price. I already have four 200T's, and I don't really need that many trimming saws.
> 
> I am somewhat keen on keeping/modding the 201T, but I have a lot of years in on the 020/200T line of saws. I have never "modded" a saw, and I was imagining that I might do well at it.
> 
> I am seeking a pinch of advice: what would you do? Keep the 201 & mod it, then sell a 200T, or...just let the 201T go at a profit? (maybe mod, then sell?)



I suspect that, if you do the "mods a la Snelling", you won't want to sell it! If it's a profit you want, just sell it. If you want another great saw, you know what to do.


----------



## str8freccia

*New MS 201T bought today*

I've been using the 200T for 10 years - A Great Saw - and as luck would have it, it died and I needed a replacement right away. So I gritted my teeth and bought a 201. 

A little sluggish compared to the 200T. Blipping the throttle it definitely does not have the same response as the 200T. It cut out a few times as it was idling but after a half hour or so it idled OK. Top end revs are no way close to the 200T. Cutting through some 14" limbs proved to be difficult. 

I have read that the 201 runs better after a few tanks so hopefully that will be the case. I will definitely consider the mods at some point. 

I will keep you all posted as this thing gets broken in. 

I have found that as machinery gets labeled as "better for the environment" it is synonymous with "doesn't work as good" - we'll see.


----------



## ShaneLogs

Looks good, Brad! U do awesome work on saws. Masterpieces!


----------



## Jlhotstick3

I have found that as machinery gets labeled as "better for the environment" it is synonymous with "doesn't work as good" - we'll see.[/QUOTE]


Lol u got that right, that n this damn ethanol , I jus took all the carbs off my quads n dirt bikes cuz of that s*#t . I run super with stabilizer, no good!


----------



## great4me

Very kool information! On my way to do a little modding on my 201T it sure needs it, took it to dealer once after 20 tanks, he adjusted it, but didn't help.
So I took out the screen , then adjusted it myself runs ok but as I see here it can do better.

Thank you


----------



## blsnelling

A little work makes the 201 run better than the 200.


----------



## Slimhay

Hi,
I'm currently working on a MS201t stihl saw. I have carried out the exhaust mods and removed the restrictor. I haven't been able to work out how to advance the timing on it yet. Can you give me some more details. I work at http://www.allmowers.com.au/

Thanks heaps
Tim


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

Slimhay said:


> Hi,
> I'm currently working on a MS201t stihl saw. I have carried out the exhaust mods and removed the restrictor. I haven't been able to work out how to advance the timing on it yet. Can you give me some more details. I work at http://www.allmowers.com.au/
> 
> Thanks heaps
> Tim


Brad tells you how in the first page or two of this thread. It's very easy.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


----------



## Young Mark

Nice info' Cheers! I drilled a 5/16" hole in the muffler today, noticeable throttle response improvement. A guy should remember to remove the spark arrestor first so as not to drill through it like I did, lol. I had a heck of a time taking it out after I damaged it with the drill bit.


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

BIG D said:


> I read a recent article by Dr. Alex Shigo that said that the tree industry wouldn't be considered a true profession unless it had a code of ethics. What does everyone think the code of ethics would be and who would be responsible for making sure it would be inforced?


You could have gotten away with drilling a 3/8" hole but 5/16" will also work

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


----------



## mels

So... Received my (Brad supplied) Snellerized '201t right around Christmas, but weather and other crap kept me from getting any time with it - until yesterday. Yeah, yeah, I know... 

It was too windy yesterday (Nor 'easter spooling up off the coast) where I was in Bethlehem to do much more than work with what I'd dropped and left before the snow set in over the Winter. Still, I managed to run two tankfuls through it and while I never ran a '200 so I don't have anything in the same class to compare the '201 to, I just want to tell you this little guy does REALLY well. Tachs right up, and keeps those rpms up in most every cut I made in the walnut and ash I dropped last year.

Did I _need _this saw? No. I mean, I'm definitely not a pro, and I had a new cs341 Echo that I really was content with - or so I thought. When I ordered the '201, I gave away the '341 to a friend understanding that the '201 would replace it handily. Boy, was that ever an underestimation! I'm almost embarrassed to have given a real good friend such a lousy excuse for a saw, though I guess I won't let him know that. Hahaha.

I'd like to say, to anyone who's still on the fence about pulling the trigger on one of these, just go ahead and do it. I like mine enough to where I'm already thinking of asking Brad to pick up a rear handle '201 and doing the same mods to it that he did to this top handle - but with all the unused saws in my little collection already patiently waiting their turn in the sun I'd need it like a hole in my head. Although...


----------



## alonfn4

Just buy one already 

Every homeowner asks me about my racing saw and then When I turn Around and they look at me funny holding this little chainsaw but it is a little monster 

Thanks Brad


----------



## SCHallenger

mels said:


> So... Received my (Brad supplied) Snellerized '201t right around Christmas, but weather and other crap kept me from getting any time with it - until yesterday. Yeah, yeah, I know...
> 
> It was too windy yesterday (Nor 'easter spooling up off the coast) where I was in Bethlehem to do much more than work with what I'd dropped and left before the snow set in over the Winter. Still, I managed to run two tankfuls through it and while I never ran a '200 so I don't have anything in the same class to compare the '201 to, I just want to tell you this little guy does REALLY well. Tachs right up, and keeps those rpms up in most every cut I made in the walnut and ash I dropped last year.
> 
> Did I _need _this saw? No. I mean, I'm definitely not a pro, and I had a new cs341 Echo that I really was content with - or so I thought. When I ordered the '201, I gave away the '341 to a friend understanding that the '201 would replace it handily. Boy, was that ever an underestimation! I'm almost embarrassed to have given a real good friend such a lousy excuse for a saw, though I guess I won't let him know that. Hahaha.
> 
> I'd like to say, to anyone who's still on the fence about pulling the trigger on one of these, just go ahead and do it. I like mine enough to where I'm already thinking of asking Brad to pick up a rear handle '201 and doing the same mods to it that he did to this top handle - but with all the unused saws in my little collection already patiently waiting their turn in the sun I'd need it like a hole in my head. Although...



Don't worry about another "hole in your head" as long as your wife doesn't put it there! My guess is that you would like the rear handle even better than the T.


----------



## mels

Ooof. My Wife is definitely a pretty good shot... 

Brad, thanks for figuring out how to eek the potential out of these saws. Looking forward to seeing how she sings a few more tankfuls down the road.


----------



## SCHallenger

burgz said:


> So when you are taking the rev limiter out?... are you eliminating it all to gether to where there is no longer a way to adjust it?



I think you have the "rev limiter" confused with the limiter on the H needle which controls the air-fuel mixture. The rev limiter is in the coil & simply prevents the saw from revving beyond a certain RPM. The only way to eliminate the rev-limiter is to replace the coil. At this time there is no coil available for the 201 which is not limited. Removing the limiter on the H needle allows you to adjust your mixture richer (more fuel/volume of air) than is possible with the factory setting.


----------



## burgz

SCHallenger said:


> I think you have the "rev limiter" confused with the limiter on the H needle which controls the air-fuel mixture. The rev limiter is in the coil & simply prevents the saw from revving beyond a certain RPM. The only way to eliminate the rev-limiter is to replace the coil. At this time there is no coil available for the 201 which is not limited. Removing the limiter on the H needle allows you to adjust your mixture richer (more fuel/volume of air) than is possible with the factory setting.




Yea thats what I meant. Sorry


----------



## burgz

burgz said:


> so when when removing the "limiter" on the H pin. Does that eleminate the peice with the flat head screw driver for the adjustment. Just making sure b4 I do this.


----------



## SCHallenger

It depends on how you do it. If you simply drill out the little pin or dowel which sits in the housing around the H needle which is ,in turn, enclosed in an alloy jacket, then you have removed the restriction, & the alloy jacket in which the screwdriver slot is cut does not have to be removed. This is the way Brad Snelling does it. This is very easy, & it gives you a full range of adjustment with your orange screwdriver.


----------



## Grande Dog

Howdy,
Stihl has a tool to remove them that has a left hand thread. I've done plenty of these with just a sheetrock screw. Insert the screw in the limiter, and turn clockwise until the screw gets a bite. Slowly turn the screw counter clockwise until you feel it hit the stop pin. Then just pull the limiter straight out. Now just push the stop pin out of the carb. Just push the limiter back on, and you're fully adjustable.
Regards
Gregg


----------



## weedkilla

Looking at the stihl USA website it looks like the 201 rear handle comes as an easy start saw now. Never being a fan of the extra weight and width of easy start stihls compared with their normal start brothers - is this true, have they always been delivered this way?


----------



## SCHallenger

Grande Dog said:


> Howdy,
> Stihl has a tool to remove them that has a left hand thread. I've done plenty of these with just a sheetrock screw. Insert the screw in the limiter, and turn clockwise until the screw gets a bite. Slowly turn the screw counter clockwise until you feel it hit the stop pin. Then just pull the limiter straight out. Now just push the stop pin out of the carb. Just push the limiter back on, and you're fully adjustable.
> Regards
> Gregg


Yup. That's the other way to remove the pin. Either way accomplishes the same thing.


----------



## SCHallenger

weedkilla said:


> Looking at the stihl USA website it looks like the 201 rear handle comes as an easy start saw now. Never being a fan of the extra weight and width of easy start stihls compared with their normal start brothers - is this true, have they always been delivered this way?



Yes. They have always been E-start. I don't know how much heavier it is than regular start, but I can't imagine you would find the rear handle model heavy. From my perspective it is well balanced (mine wears a 14in bar) & very comfortable & fun to use while still being capable of doing whatever you need to do up to the full capacity of the bar.


----------



## weedkilla

SCHallenger said:


> Yes. They have always been E-start. I don't know how much heavier it is than regular start, but I can't imagine you would find the rear handle model heavy. From my perspective it is well balanced (mine wears a 14in bar) & very comfortable & fun to use while still being capable of doing whatever you need to do up to the full capacity of the bar.



Thanks. 

I didn't think it would make or break the saw, just prefer standard start if possible!
As I'm looking for a saw to put in a back pack it's probably the extra width that concerns me more.


----------



## PainAndMurphy

weedkilla said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I didn't think it would make or break the saw, just prefer standard start if possible!
> As I'm looking for a saw to put in a back pack it's probably the extra width that concerns me more.



As far as I know, the Easy2Start on the small saws, like MS192 that I have, is nothing like what's on the MS180C, MS250C, MS291C with the 'E', where you gently 'charge' the mechaism with tension until it jups on it's own. The small 'E' just increases the energy of your pull while softening the pull at the same time.. 

I myself tried to look for differences between non-'E' MS192 and one with it, and couldn't tell by countless inspections over the net, plus 3 saws I had.. now one remains - the rear handle one, and let me just say that if you know how NOT to pull hard like standart recoil, the 'E' on the 180/250/291 work fantastic. I had no issues. Was nice to start them on the bucket crane too.. efortless. And I don't tend to break stuff. That's just my personal take on that. Jo.


----------



## XSKIER

I'm not entirely sure, but I think the MS 201 C-E doesn't have the easy start recoil. Just a primer bulb and elastostart recoil handle.


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## PainAndMurphy

XSKIER said:


> I'm not entirely sure, but I think the MS 201 C-E doesn't have the easy start recoil. Just a primer bulb and elastostart recoil handle.



Well, the bulb is indeed part of the 'E' package on the small ones. I do have it on the 192 (RH), but it pushes fuel, unfortunately, to the carb and not vacuum the carb like normal primer.. I fought to figure it out since I had to fix it.. 

Plus, no 'ElastoStart' since compression is ridiculous on the 30.1cc while the Easy recoil does the 'give' on the pull as if it was 'Elasto'.. I swear 

If the MS201 has the 'charging' recoil? Probably not.. this one makes'em swollen. Yes indeed - it's probably the bulb-Elasto combo..


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## dogdad

SCHallenger said:


> It depends on how you do it. If you simply drill out the little pin or dowel which sits in the housing around the H needle which is ,in turn, enclosed in an alloy jacket, then you have removed the restriction, & the alloy jacket in which the screwdriver slot is cut does not have to be removed. This is the way Brad Snelling does it. This is very easy, & it gives you a full range of adjustment with your orange screwdriver.



Would like to see a video posted of this actually being performed ..


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## SCHallenger

dogdad said:


> Would like to see a video posted of this actually being performed ..



Look at post #4 on page 1. The first pic clearly shows where the little pin (dowel) is which needs to be removed.


----------



## 2treeornot2tree

dogdad said:


> Would like to see a video posted of this actually being performed ..


If you cant figure it out, you probably should be doing the work. Send it to Brad and he will do it for you! He was already nice enough to show everyone how to do it and post pictures. He basically took money out of his own pocket to share his knowledge with us so stop asking for more info. There is plenty of info there to do the work.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


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## 2treeornot2tree

Boy my last response sure hit a nerve with dogdad. He sent me a pm saying he doesn't need my input and Brad can talk for himself. 

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


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## dogdad

2treeornot2tree said:


> Boy my last response sure hit a nerve with dogdad. He sent me a pm saying he doesn't need my input and Brad can talk for himself.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


And this was 2treeornot2tree response to me..quoted..."**** off"

Not good from a long time member..... my message was to the original thead starter, not you.... I'm sure he can reply if he wants and doesn't need you to answer for him...Grow up man..... 

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


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## 2treeornot2tree

He has responded multiple times that he has provided enough info to complete the mod. You say I am a long time member you have been a member 3 years more then me. You acted like the ass first so you got the response you got. Don't like it. Go cry to your mommy. 

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


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## Tor R

Have done the carb and muffler modd. Both was very easy to do.

Questions for the advanced timings.
When we speak about shaving off the key, we speak about the key on the flywheel and CCW directions, right?
Some say 1/3 and some say 1/2 the key, what is recomended?

And what is the distance from the coil to the flywheel? (I had to renove the coil)

Thanks for any answers


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## blsnelling

Yes, on the key and the direction. If the crank were locked into position, you want to rotate the flywheel CCW. So, as the engine is running in a CCW direction, the magnets will get to the coil sooner than they did before. The key is cast into the flywheel itself. Don't go half. Only go 1/3. That'll get you real close. I haven't measured it, but it's probably 3/16"-1/4" at the outside of the flywheel. Use a business card to gap the coil to the flywheel.


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## Tor R

Thanks Brad for the fast responce.
The key seems to be around 3 mm.

The coil seems to have a little toleranse in the screws for a higher setting (means earlier ignition)
Is that also your experience?

And, it was first after the advanced timings that you ended up with carb setting 2 1/2 turn H, and around 1 setting L, right?


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## blsnelling

Set the L needle at 1 1/8. The H can be anywhere from 2 - 2 5/8. They've obviously made some changes for them to require that much difference in tune. The last ones I've done require less H needle.

This coil that I just replaced using the upgrade kit from Stihl was the first 201 coil I've ever removed.


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## blsnelling

Here's some good info from another thread.



dogdad said:


> Well...bought the new 201T today. I called Stihl and talked to their technical director Casey. He said there had been problems with the handle which had a "weak" spot but has since been changed . I was also told that Stihl had started doing the engine upgrade quite a while back. Both upgrades started at serial number 176569848. Mine is well above that. Also mentioned to me was the 200t had an aluminum muffler and the 201T has a stainless steel muffler which makes the two saws sound different. Using this for myself , not business purposes, gives me a year warranty, and buying a pack of oil moves it to a 2 year warranty. For me , it works.





blsnelling said:


> There have been multiple changes made to the 201. Exactly what was changed at SN 176569848?





dogdad said:


> Ok...just got a phone call from Casey at stihl.....he says after more research....*stihl has also changed the ignition module and carburetor which only improves acceleration @ cold starting*, ..the serial number starts at 177543232.....and it will be months before the dealers get these saws with this change. The cylinder change started long time ago. Hope this helps.


Good info here. Thanks for sharing. The newest 201s do run much better than the earlier ones. At one point I was seeing 40%-50% gains with these simple mods. I'm now getting just under 20%. The earliest ones have been described as "unusable" by veteran arborist. The latest ones would not be near that bad. They're actually a decent running saw in stock form. But, when you can get 20% more for only a little work, why not?


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## dogdad

blsnelling said:


> Here's some good info from another thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good info here. Thanks for sharing. The newest 201s do run much better than the earlier ones. At one point I was seeing 40%-50% gains with these simple mods. I'm now getting just under 20%. The earliest ones have been described as "unusable" by veteran arborist. The latest ones would not be near that bad. They're actually a decent running saw in stock form. But, when you can get 20% more for only a little work, why not?



I don't know where I stand with the saw I bought today...not the oldest version, but not the newest evidently.,, but won't lose any sleep over it.


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## blsnelling

They all run fantastic after the mods I've described for them.


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## SCHallenger

blsnelling said:


> They all run fantastic after the mods I've described for them.


 
I can testify to that!!


----------



## mweba




----------



## goodaking

I read threw the first 5 pages and did the muffler mod on two of my saws thanks to swing dude! But on my second 201 the chain will not stop spinning. I've tried turning the L crew out 1 turn and 1.5 turns out and tried to ajust the lA screw to slow the spinning chain. I either get the chain to stop for a little while and then it starts spinning again or the thing stalls out. what are your setting once you have made your muffler mod on the L And LA CRews?
Thanks
IAn


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## blsnelling

I set the L needle at 1 1/8 turns out. I usually have to back the idle stop just a little. If your chain doesn't stop until it stalls, then there must be an issue with the clutch.


----------



## goodaking

Thanks for the quick reply! I Can get the chain to stop for a little bit but then It starts spinning on occasion. Before I made the mod things were ok with this saw. comparing it to my other 201t that I did the muffler mod on. I have the l needle out almost 1.5. im going to try and play with it somemore tomorrow


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## blsnelling

You'll probably have poor throttle response at 1 1/2. It might even die when you go WOT. Many of the strato saws need a leanish L setting for good throttle response.


----------



## goodaking

Just got around to playing with the saw. My settings as of now, so I can use the saw on Tuesday are H needle 1.5 out. L needle .45 out and ajust LA until the chain stopped spinning. after cutting at high throttle the chain takes a little while to stop spinning. I think I still need to play around with it some more though


----------



## dogdad

blsnelling said:


> They all run fantastic after the mods I've described for them.


After reading all these threads about the 201t mod, which some of the posts are over a year and a half....and some of your most recent says the newer saws are running better which brings me to the question of how much of a mod are you doing or suggesting to the newer 201t saws being bought presently? If the newer saws are running better than the older ones, stihl must have changed some things on the saw(?).


----------



## blsnelling

I can't tell you what all has been changed or when, but they do run better now than they did. They are at least a useable saw now from the factory. I'm still modding them the same, even with the newest "kit". Instead of getting 40%-50% gains, I'm now getting about 20% gains.


----------



## wdstruble

I'm a little late on the conversation . We have a family owned tree service in jersey always used stihl saws . We bought a couple of the ms201t for are climbers we were not happy with them.started buying old 200's and refurbished them. Since finding this sight and finding out what you guys said about the ms201t would like to try to modd them did muffler and carb trying to figure out how to advance time them I know you mention how to do but can't find that thread


----------



## nstueve

So has anyone actually been inside the cylinders yet to check the port timing and squish?

I have done the carb and muffler, and moving to timing next. If that doesn't solve the power problem for my tree service guy I'll likely be going inside for a route around if you know what I mean.

nathan


----------



## nstueve

wdstruble said:


> I'm a little late on the conversation . We have a family owned tree service in jersey always used stihl saws . We bought a couple of the ms201t for are climbers we were not happy with them.started buying old 200's and refurbished them. Since finding this sight and finding out what you guys said about the ms201t would like to try to modd them did muffler and carb trying to figure out how to advance time them I know you mention how to do but can't find that thread


You don't need a thread on how to do this brad pretty well explained it on the previous page. 

1.) remove flywheel

2.) shave 1/3 the width of the cast in flywheel key (from the right side of the key while looking at the back of the FW). You have to remove it from the correct side so that you can turn the fw counter clockwise 1/3 of the key width.

3.) reclock the fw and hold in place while tightening the fw key so that the fw timing stays advanced.


----------



## Terry Syd

"2.) shave 1/3 the width of the cast in flywheel key (from the right side of the key while looking at the back of the FW). You have to remove it from the correct side so that you can turn the fw counter clockwise 1/3 of the key width."

Is that 1/3 of the flywheel key when the key is at the 12 o'clock position, or when it is at the 6 o'clock position? And, when you turn the fw counter clockwise, is that while looking at the back of the FW, or when it is installed on the engine?

I know the answers, but maybe some newbies might not have thought it out and could get it wrong.


----------



## nstueve

12 oclock
front during install


----------



## mikeboyer

"2.) shave 1/3 the width of the cast in flywheel key (from the right side of the key while looking at the back of the FW). You have to remove it from the correct side so that you can turn the fw counter clockwise 1/3 of the key width."

This is confusing at best,--it would be the right side if the key were "UP", but it would be the left side if the key were "DOWN", go with "CCW facing installed" and you are moving in the rite direction--in order to advance the timing, the "Flying" magnet on the flywheel needs to get to the coil "sooner" relative to the piston. I put up some pics of this, with an arrow showing where to file on the key. look at: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/thankyou-brad-re-201t-mods.258819/

Also, I've done 3 so far, the results were great, and once I rigged a mini degree wheel, I found that 6 degrees is probably ideal, but since this stuff cuts fast, i did file one around 7 and another at 8+. Neither me or my partner could tell which one was which, in fact the one that degreed at 7 ran the best, but it also was a bit newer than the other 2.


----------



## Jake Winterbower

Question: So if you do just the muffler mod with the spark arrester removed do you have to take the limiter out to get a gain in performance from the muffler mod?
Thanks in advance!


----------



## benmyers

If you take the screen out and drill a hole, you HAVE to get rid of the limiter so you can richen it up. They are lean enough as it is, that will make it very short lived.


----------



## blsnelling

Actually, I leave the spark arrestor intact. I replace it after adding the additional hole. You will definitely want to remove the limiters on the carb needles though. Set the L at 1 1/8 and the H at 2 1/2. Fine tune from there.


----------



## Jake Winterbower

blsnelling said:


> Actually, I leave the spark arrestor intact. I replace it after adding the additional hole. You will definitely want to remove the limiters on the carb needles though. Set the L at 1 1/8 and the H at 2 1/2. Fine tune from there.



Thanks guys!


----------



## Tor R

Brad, When you do the muffler modd, do you also take a modd in the waffle inside the muffler? (The same we di full muff modd on husky 550)


----------



## Gypo Logger

Brad, loosen up the chain and crank up the oiler! Otherwise a fast Lil saw.


----------



## blsnelling

Gypo Logger said:


> Brad, loosen up the chain and crank up the oiler! Otherwise a fast Lil saw.


Yeah, she looked a little dry and tight didn't she.


----------



## Stayalert

Been a couple of years since I got a snellerized 201t….just here to say….Still super stoked, has been a GREAT saw no problems whatsoever….No affiliation other than a happy customer. Thanks Brad!


----------



## tyler0351

Hey man I want a saw asap, i will pm you my number as soon as I figure out how


----------



## mels

Attaboy, just joined today and your first post is wanting to buy a sweet little saw from one good dude. Welcome to AS, 'Tyler.


----------



## tyler0351

Thanks man, I've


mels said:


> Attaboy, just joined today and your first post is wanting to buy a sweet little saw from one good dude. Welcome to AS, 'Tyler.


yea man I've been in the trade for a
While, been a line
Clearance tree trimmer an now I'm
Working for myself, i actually just moved to ct from Oregon,


----------



## tyler0351

tyler0351 said:


> Thanks man, I've
> 
> yea man I've been in the trade for a
> While, been a line
> Clearance tree trimmer an now I'm
> Working for myself, i actually just moved to ct from Oregon,


How do I send him a message with my info without all of these savages seeing it ?


----------



## blsnelling

Go to this link and type in my username. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/conversations/add


----------



## tyler0351

blsnelling said:


> Go to this link and type in my username. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/conversations/add


THANK YOU


----------



## mels

tyler0351 said:


> How do I send him a message with my info without all of these savages seeing it ?



Or as a shortcut simply click on a members username under their avatar to the left of their posts. A pop up window will open and give you the option to "start a conversation". Click that and away you go!


----------



## Paragon Builder

tyler0351 said:


> Thanks man, I've
> 
> yea man I've been in the trade for a
> While, been a line
> Clearance tree trimmer an now I'm
> Working for myself, i actually just moved to ct from Oregon,


Welcome Tyler!
Where in CT?
I'm in eastern CT.
Do you have a crew or work alone?
Dan


----------



## tyler0351

Preston, an I use my buddy from the marines as a ground man when I need one


Paragon Builder said:


> Welcome Tyler!
> Where in CT?
> I'm in eastern CT.
> Do you have a crew or work alone?
> Dan


----------



## Paragon Builder

I'm just north of you in Norwich. If you need anything send me a pm. We are having a gtg Nov 7th at my place. You are welcome to join us. Here is the thread.http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...ial-CT-Autumn-GTG--(07-November-2015).284342/


----------



## mels

Hey Tyler, sent you a PM with a CL link to a saw nearer you.


----------



## Paragon Builder

mels said:


> Hey Tyler, sent you a PM with a CL link to a saw nearer you.


If it's the one for $250 it's gone. Tried to grab it yesterday. [emoji20]


----------



## mels

Yessir, that's the one


----------



## tyler0351

mels said:


> Yessir, that's the one


Thanks fellas, I'm trying to set up a pay pal I need a good saw asap, I had to drag my felling saw up a tree today :/


----------



## Paragon Builder

I've got a paypal account if I can help. Or maybe you could next day a money order.


----------



## dogdad

Is this plastic melting normal on the 201t on inside cover by exhaust?


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## CR888

l don't think thats normal....they are not supposed to self destruct!lol l know Brad cut out some of the plastic on mine to accomadate the muff modd. Did you modify your muffler? Are your muffler screws in properly and none missing. You need to work backwards from the evidence to find the exhaust leak.


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## blsnelling

No, that's not normal. Did you remove the spark arrestor screen and leave the screw out?


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## Woos31

A "lightly" snellerized 201T finally!! Thank you for the review on the mini saw, I use one once in awhile at work and its a lame duck and they don't like me taking a falling saw (441 28") up in the bucket. Don't help that 20 different people run the 201T and nobody but me gives 2 sh*$s how it runs or how to keep up on chains.


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## blsnelling

Woos31 said:


> A "lightly" snellerized 201T finally!! Thank you for the review on the mini saw, I use one once in awhile at work and its a lame duck and they don't like me taking a falling saw (441 28") up in the bucket. Don't help that 20 different people run the 201T and nobody but me gives 2 sh*$s how it runs or how to keep up on chains.


Are you running am early 201T? The latter production 201Ts run quite well, right out of the box. The 201TC runs very well right out of the box. The mods I do to these still make quite a difference though.


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## Woos31

blsnelling said:


> Are you running am early 201T? The latter production 201Ts run quite well, right out of the box. The 201TC runs very well right out of the box. The mods I do to these still make quite a difference though.


They had the saw when I started ( almost 3 years) so I'm not sure if it's older style or newer. It actually runs decently but nobody flips bars when they file, or clean air filters, or give a Damn about a properly sharpend chain. All chains have beaks and uneven, some have same angle as manufacturer and some cutters are straight across oh and most chains have all these attributes so they don't help the little saw. So hairs tends to be lost


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## dogdad

blsnelling said:


> Are you running am early 201T? The latter production 201Ts run quite well, right out of the box. The 201TC runs very well right out of the box. The mods I do to these still make quite a difference though.


How can one tell if it's one of the better 201T's? Serial # starts at? Thanks


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## blsnelling

I don't know that.


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## DND 9000

The modification (with improved flywheel, ignition module and carburetor) was introduced from serial number 1 77 543 232. It`s descriped in TI 40.2013.


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## dogdad

DND 9000 said:


> The modification (with improved flywheel, ignition module and carburetor) was introduced from serial number 1 77 543 232. It`s descriped in TI 40.2013.


wow..very informative information on these threads...but leaves my head spinning. It sounds like the higher ser# 201T (17755..) and above is a much better saw than the intro 201ts... But the mtronic saws are great too from the reports I've read. So I'm getting a new one ......but which one to get?????? I've got a dealer with a 201t ser# 179..that he's holding for me till Saturday, and can be adjusted, or get a mtronic model which can't be adjusted(?)....which I can always get later.....help me out with this guys.


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## DND 9000

I think I would take the m-tronic version.


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## robert549tree

blsnelling said:


> It seems like every review I see on these is less than stellar. The more bad I heard, the more I wanted to get my hands on one. So that's exactly what I did. I went out and bought one this morning just to get the lowdown on them for myself and see what's really up with them.
> 
> I'll start out with some pics.


I know this thread is really old but you still modding the 201t for $50 +shipping?


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## blsnelling

robert549tree said:


> I know this thread is really old but you still modding the 201t for $50 +shipping?


Basically, yes. These days I just call it $75, including shipping.


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## Thornton

So how are the M tronics holding up ? I haven't kept up with all threads on them. Do they always run correctly ? If they don't and don't stay tuned can you burn up your saw? Or do you have to reprogram them some how. I've wanted a 201tc and a 241 c but didn't know how warranty covered them and if any electronic problems were showing up. I've watched most Brads videos on all the 201 saws seem pretty good. Even on the timing advanced saws.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## stihl saws

Just wanted to give a thanks to Brad for sharing the 201 info. It made my original 201 a much stronger saw.


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## blsnelling

I've heard of no complaints on the 201TC.


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## SCHallenger

stihl saws said:


> Just wanted to give a thanks to Brad for sharing the 201 info. It made my original 201 a much stronger saw.



+++++!


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## Magnum783

blsnelling said:


> I've heard of no complaints on the 201TC.


Do you still feel the same way brad. I just bought one and was looking for mods on here and seems to be none to be had


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## blsnelling

I've never tried porting one. I mod the muffler, advance the ignition, and you're good to go. They run fantastic with these simple mods.


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## Magnum783

Do you have any pictures of your muffler mod? Or advice how to attack the beast? How many thousands do you take off the keyway? Sorry for bombardment of questions just don't want to make any mistakes that could be avoided.


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## blsnelling

There's no easy way to measure the key. I use a degree wheel to set the flywheel, then lock it down.

Unfortunately, I don't have a good picture of my muffler mod.


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## Magnum783

So you for the most part just gut the muffler? For the flywheel how do you attach the degree wheel at the same time as the flywheel hope I am not just being dense and missing something.


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## blsnelling

There's nothing to gut. I add a second port, as shown in the pic above. 

You don't have to actually attach the flywheel. Print a paper degree wheel the same size as the flywheel and mark on the plastic how far you need to rotate it.


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## Magnum783

blsnelling said:


> I then did some cuts on the stand with it still bone stock. After that, I began the process of modding the muffler. Removing the spark arrestor screen on this muffler does not give you another port as the 200T does. So, I drilled a hole in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see here, the plastic must be trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the finished product.


This is the whole you speak of. Also how far do you advance the running? 6-8* seem to be a number I remember reading early in this thread. Still a valid measurement? Now if Google can help me find a degree wheel we will be all set.


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## blsnelling

That was the very first 201 I modded. I now keep the hole up higher and do not need to grind the plastic lower. I also always re-install the spark screen now. Removing it makes little, if any, difference.

Yes 6°-8° is good.

Crop and re-size this to the size of your flywheel.


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## Magnum783

What do you use to mount it. I was thinking cutting a piece of aluminum on the water jet to close in size


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## blsnelling

blsnelling said:


> You don't have to actually attach the flywheel. Print a paper degree wheel the same size as the flywheel and mark on the plastic how far you need to rotate it.


You don't need to mount it. Use it to measure how much you need to re-index the flywheel.


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## stihlaficionado

blsnelling said:


> There's no easy way to measure the key. I use a degree wheel to set the flywheel, then lock it down.
> 
> Unfortunately, I don't have a good picture of my muffler mod.


So now the T handles are getting stickers? I'm jealous


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## Magnum783

blsnelling said:


> You don't need to mount it. Use it to measure how much you need to re-index the flywheel.


 Ok Brad I am feeling quite stupid and its not your fault it is my lack of knowledge in the advancement process and my fear of getting it wrong. So I take the flywheel hold the paper wheel to it find a ref mark. Remove the flywheel and file a bit off the key. Replace flywheel and check to see how many degrees of advancement I have gained until I have gained 6-8* of advance. The part I am not getting is how I verify I get the paper wheel in the same place each time on the flywheel. 

I have done this lots of times on SBC where we bolt the timing wheel to the crank and use a large indicator to set the cam advance. Guess I am missing the boat on this one. Thanks for your help.


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## Definitive Dave

For those looking at a 201T, be aware that Stihl has discontinued the "undercover kinda like a recall" program.
For the last couple of years Stihl corporate was subsidizing the cost of the MS201T upgrade kit for the older 201T. The kit included a carburetor, ignition coil and flywheel for about $120.00 as long as you asked the right people and then they asked the right people
I recently got a reorder on this kit (we sold quite a few) and they were more than twice what they used to cost.
I have a 201T that Brad did and it runs a bit stronger than the kit or new 201T.
The caveat is the muffler mod makes it a little louder too. My climber loves the Snellerized 201T and for guys looking for the performance boost to put it back in the class with the 200T, having Brad do one is the cheapest and likely best option.
Dave


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## Magnum783

All the more reason I have figure out how to mod. It effectively, or I should just put it in a box and send it to brad.


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## Definitive Dave

For $75 ? You will be very impressed


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## SCHallenger

Definitive Dave said:


> For those looking at a 201T, be aware that Stihl has discontinued the "undercover kinda like a recall" program.
> For the last couple of years Stihl corporate was subsidizing the cost of the MS201T upgrade kit for the older 201T. The kit included a carburetor, ignition coil and flywheel for about $120.00 as long as you asked the right people and then they asked the right people
> I recently got a reorder on this kit (we sold quite a few) and they were more than twice what they used to cost.
> I have a 201T that Brad did and it runs a bit stronger than the kit or new 201T.
> The caveat is the muffler mod makes it a little louder too. My climber loves the Snellerized 201T and for guys looking for the performance boost to put it back in the class with the 200T, having Brad do one is the cheapest and likely best option.
> Dave



An interesting update to this info is as follows: I have an MS200 & MS201, both with rear handles. The 201 is a very early model which sometimes died at idle & had a tendency to load up. After reading Brad's thread, I removed the H limiter & did the muff mod. The saw immediately woke up & had an excellent throttle response. I then had Brad do the timing advance & the performance improvement was doubled! One problem remained. That was the $#%?!* coil which was limited to 13,000RPM. Then the "kit" came out as described above. I found out that the coil in the kit was limited at 14,000RPM. I figured using the new coil would make tuning easier, so I went to my dealer to order one. At that time the coil, alone, was around $95 & the entire kit was $89.95?!? I ordered the kit & had the dealer install the coil. They wanted me to put on the new flywheel as well, so I did. The throttle response with the new flywheel from the kit was not as sharp as it had been with Brad's modified original flywheel, so I switched back to the original. The moral of the story is that Brad's timing advance is, I suspect, a little greater than that provided on the newer flywheel now being placed on these saws, & that, along with a muff mod, will produce a noticeably better performing saw. The new coil did make tuning much easier for me, & the exact sequence for that process was described in another thread. I can't speak for the newest MS201s which are M-Tronic as to how they might respond to the timing advance, but a muff mod always seems to help.


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## SCHallenger

Definitive Dave said:


> For $75 ? You will be very impressed



++++!


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## Magnum783

Now when brad chimes back in I will have to see what his timeline is.


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## Magnum783

@bsnelling no reply makes me sad panda


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## blsnelling

Don't be sad Magnum! I can take these top handle saws anytime. Send me a PM if interested.


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## Haurlessdog

Hi brad been watching your work for a year now finally made an account. Could you pm your contact info I have a few 201 I'd like modded. Thanks! Justin


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## blsnelling

PM sent.


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## stubnail67

I got to handle a stock ms 201 today nice saw....my neighbor had his tree's trimmed.... it was boggy though sounded like the low needed to be adjusted....once spooled up it seemed to cut pretty fast... i offered to adjust it for the guy but he said it was month old and no don't touch it....tried to tell him about brads modifications and he just kinda shrugged his shoulders....said he missed his old 200t.....im sure i could have made it run a lil better with a few carb adjustments....Oh well not my problem LOL....it felt good in my hand i must say....


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## LittleLebowski

Brad, do you have a website?


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## blsnelling

I do not.


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## Magnum783

Every time I get notifications of this thread progressing I kick myself for not just boxing up the saw and sending it that way. Wind has been blowing for a week strait or so it seems. @blsnelling what does the turn around look like?


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## blsnelling

I can do these anytime. Turn around is the same week. I typically ship out the following Monday after I receive it.


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## Magnum783

Ok let me see what weather looks like next week


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## Dings48

Brad - I just picked up a 201T and would like to ship it out for your mods. Do you still offer this service?


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## blsnelling

Dings48 said:


> Brad - I just picked up a 201T and would like to ship it out for your mods. Do you still offer this service?


I do. Send me a PM.


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## nate33

Brad! Been lurking/ gaining knowedge and insight from the site over the last 6 months, decided to join and be apart of the community. I’m interested in send my 201 I just purchased to you sometime in the next month. Are you still interested in yet another mod lol.

Thank you!


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## blsnelling

Thanks for asking, but I'm not taking any saw work. Welcome to the forum!


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## nate33

blsnelling said:


> Thanks for asking, but I'm not taking any saw work. Welcome to the forum!


Ok thanks so much for the reply!


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## EZ1

DND 9000 said:


> The modification (with improved flywheel, ignition module and carburetor) was introduced from serial number 1 77 543 232. It`s descriped in TI 40.2013.



Hope it's OK to revive this ancient thread. 

Looking to possibly buy a used MS201t with (I believe) serial #1145 351 050(x). Can anyone confirm that: 
(a) such a serial number is possible
and
(b) such a serial # would have the improved components and therefore not require modification.

Thanks in advance for any helpful advice.


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## DND 9000

That looks like a part number, not like a serial number. The 1145 is the series identification of the MS 201/201T etc. Also this number is to low to be a serial number for that machine.


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## blsnelling

EZ1 said:


> (b) such a serial # would have the improved components and therefore not require modification.


They ALL benefit from the same mods. Some just need it more than others.


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## EZ1

Thanks fellas. Seller provided that number over the phone. Where should he have looked? Figured it would make sense to at least start with a later unit, especially now that Brad no longer mods these.


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## DND 9000

The serial number is in front of the oil tank housing (below the handle guard)


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## EZ1

D--much appreciated.


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## EZ1

Picked up the saw I mentioned. It has serial # 1775586xx, so I presume it has the later parts. Came with a new electric chain sharpener, spare new chain, some oil. Haven't cut anything with it yet, but it started on first pull. Paid $470. Not sure it's worth modding to remove one tree. (link to thread https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/old-veteran-requests-supervision.322993/ ) I'll see how it cuts/runs first.


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## Jjtree

blsnelling said:


> I'll offer these mods for $50 + shipping. If interested, I can also supply the saw. A new modded saw would run you $625 + shipping. This wasn't the goal or point of this thread, but I hate to see a saw run at less than it's potential. I'm selling this first one for actual cost, $575 + shipping.


You still selling these beefed up 201t or should I just go get a 355t


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## Boshaken

indiansprings said:


> Great thread Brad, provides a great service to many members. It sure shows how much unlocked potential this little saw has.


Hey Bud. Would you by chance have a restored Stihl 08S??? Thanks. Bowe Hunter


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## Boshaken

blsnelling said:


> Now for the timed cuts.
> 
> The muffler mod made a significant difference in this saw. In the vid, I'm showing you how it runs with light, medium, heavy, and very heavy loads. These are not all meant to be representative of the saws best cut times. When I throw out those cuts just made for demonstration, and take the best couple of times, the muffler mod was good for a 22% gain.
> 
> I then proceeded to advance the ignition timing. I had a strong hunch that this was a big piece of the puzzle. I was right. The saw picked up another 20% over the muffler mod alone. It is now nearly 38% faster than stock!
> 
> Of course, everyone wants to know how it compares to a 200T. With a muffler mod only, they're dead even. With the timing advanced on the 201T, it was 20% faster than a muffler modded 200T! Would the 200T pick up another 20% with some timing advance? I don't know. That wasn't part of this test.
> 
> Once both the muffler was modded and the timing advanced, throttle response seems as snappy as a 200T, IMHO.
> 
> As I figured, a lot of what we're hearing is less than dependable for those looking to purchase one of these. With proper tuning, they run well, even in stock form. Once modded, they are a phenominal saw, as I suspected it would be.



Hi Brad - how many degrees did you advance it and wouldn't advancing the timing require a higher grade fuel to prevent detonation???


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## Riftweaver

I know Brad said he was advancing them 6-8 degrees. It's back in this thread a few pages.


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## SCHallenger

Boshaken said:


> Hi Brad - how many degrees did you advance it and wouldn't advancing the timing require a higher grade fuel to prevent detonation???



I have one (rear handle as well as a 200, also a rear handle). Brad has done the timing advance on the 201. I ran it with 92 octane E-free [email protected]/1 for awhile & now use V-P 94 [email protected]/1. There is no detonation with either, & it a very strong performer.


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