# Stihl Chainsaw oiler not working



## druist (Nov 27, 2007)

Hi people, hope i am posting in the right forum.

I have a Stihl M170 which i just use for cutting for firewood generally. Anyway I noticed no oil was going onto the chain, in fact no oil was coming out at all. I took the easily accessible parts of and cleaned the harder parts with an airline and a peice of wire - still no joy. 

The manual is useless as it doesnt tell me how the Oiler system works. Can anyone help out here. I have searched in vain for a diagram. I assume its blocked but i cant trace it back as i dont know where i am going.

thanks

drew


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## aquan8tor (Nov 27, 2007)

druist said:


> Hi people, hope i am posting in the right forum.
> 
> I have a Stihl M170 which i just use for cutting for firewood generally. Anyway I noticed no oil was going onto the chain, in fact no oil was coming out at all. I took the easily accessible parts of and cleaned the harder parts with an airline and a peice of wire - still no joy.
> 
> ...






Welcome to the forum, but you probably will have better luck posting in the "chainsaw" forum. I can tell you how to fix it on a different saw, but I've never had an ms170......Good luck.


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## druist (Nov 27, 2007)

thanks aquan8tor i didnt see a "chainsaw forum" will have another look. Do you know a site that shows diagrams of chainsaws, like a circuit diagram but not, if you catch my drift.

ta, drew


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## Lakeside53 (Nov 27, 2007)

Take of the clutch drum and clutch (reverse thread) - inspect the pump arm and worm. 

Check that the body (beneath the clutch) that hold the pump isn't scored or burned and busted though. If it is, sometimes, marine epoxy will fix this.

The most common reason is that it's blocked... You have to take the handle off - take out screws, the external plugs and it just pulls off. You'll see a hose from the tank to the oiler- pull it out. If it's broken you've found your problem.

Flush out the tank, hose and pump inlet with gas (careful...).

If you need to remove the pump, it comes out though the bottom of the saw - wind in a 5mm bolt (I think) and pull it out.

Get a service manual....


And first make sure its not just your bar hole that's blocked... Run the saw without the bar and chain and look for oil pumping.


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## druist (Nov 28, 2007)

Thanks Lakeside. Will give that a go. I have a service manual which came with it, but it doesnt go into that sort of essential detail - unless there is a more comprehensive one that is about?? Its almost as though they dont want you to know, so you visit a Stihl dealer!


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## Lakeside53 (Nov 28, 2007)

The service manual is all we have... the rest comes the hard way!


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## phbrush (Nov 28, 2007)

*Another Stihl (017) Oiler problem*

I'm also having oiler problems with my Stihl 017 - appears to be producing more air bubbles than oil out of the oil port. Disassembled and cleaned clutch - pump drive, checked screen, hose,etc. No oil leaks, just air bubbles out of the port. Is this a pump problem or am I missing something ?. Thanks -Pete


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## Lakeside53 (Nov 28, 2007)

you're missing the hose from the tank to the pump.


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## druist (Nov 29, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> The service manual is all we have... the rest comes the hard way!



Hi, dont know if you have seen the one that comes with m170 but it doesnt even tell you about the oiler let alone show you where it is. its as though they dont want you to know as its seen as a DIY home hobbyist chainsaw - which is i suppose true and certainly what i am using it for. Therefore, they expect ppl like me to take it to a certified Stihl repair shop, which will cost more than the chainsaw cost me.

Thanks for telling me where it is, i reckon from your description i can pretty much work it out.

What worried me though is that inside the oil reservior there is a long instrument freely moving about - any idea why that should be doing there - its obviously something? Again nothing in the manual.


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## druist (Dec 4, 2007)

Lakeside, wish i had tried to flush it with petrol (gas) first, as that did the job i think, at first nothing happened, then i blew into the oiler tank (yuck - with petrol still there), then load of gunk came out near the clutch and petrol. So all i have to do is get those bast***rd annular things back in.

any tips for getting em in, these are 3 maybe 4 ridged annular thingys? do you just bash em? or is there a proper tool?


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 4, 2007)

Just work around them with a screwdriver. Use soapy water if you need to.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 4, 2007)

druist said:


> Hi, dont know if you have seen the one that comes with m170 but it doesnt even tell you about the oiler let alone show you where it is. its as though they dont want you to know as its seen as a DIY home hobbyist chainsaw - which is i suppose true and certainly what i am using it for. Therefore, they expect ppl like me to take it to a certified Stihl repair shop, which will cost more than the chainsaw cost me.
> 
> Thanks for telling me where it is, i reckon from your description i can pretty much work it out.
> 
> What worried me though is that inside the oil reservior there is a long instrument freely moving about - any idea why that should be doing there - its obviously something? Again nothing in the manual.





You obviously don't have the workshop service manual... It covers the oil pump and all other parts in exacting detail.

















Here's two pages to help you out.


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## taplinhill (Dec 4, 2007)

druist said:


> Hi, dont know if you have seen the one that comes with m170 but it doesnt even tell you about the oiler let alone show you where it is............ Again nothing in the manual.



Sounds like you are looking at the Owners Manual, not the Workshop Manual.


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## druist (Dec 5, 2007)

I have three manuals, an owners and two that someone kindly sent me in pdf, one of which is very indepth, but i wonder if they were scanned and that page was missed or i have missed a page. 

Thanks again Lakeside.


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## druist (Dec 5, 2007)

on a different note, can a longer bar and chain be added to this model eg 14" as opposed to 12"?


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## SawTroll (Dec 5, 2007)

druist said:


> Thanks Lakeside. Will give that a go. I have a service manual which came with it, but it doesnt go into that sort of essential detail - unless there is a more comprehensive one that is about?? Its almost as though they dont want you to know, so you visit a Stihl dealer!



The Service manual doesn't usually come with the saw - but the dealer should be able to get you one.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 5, 2007)

druist said:


> on a different note, can a longer bar and chain be added to this model eg 14" as opposed to 12"?



yes, but stay with the the thin keft 0.043 bar and chain - PMN.


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## druist (Dec 12, 2007)

AHHHHHHHHHHHHGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG     

Got it all back together and i cant get oil coming onto the chain still. When i poured petrol through the oiler it seemed as though the block had cleared; so put it all back together (thanks for the rubber buffer installation tips, hopefully i could now get em out without breaking them.

But anyway having seen oil/gas come though the correct area i assumed all was well. I sort of clear ran it with a big white sheet of paper beneath me. So i would have saw any chain oil appear. It seems to run all right in other ways. 

Can anyone think of anything it might be? Or at least how the oiler works, then i might know why its failing, as thin fluid (petrol) will go through it, put the actual pumping doesnt. I am thinking of letting it soak overnight in petrol then flush out with chain oil before i start again.

thanks.

drew


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 12, 2007)

If you put oil in the tank, and run it without the bar and chain, do you get oil coming out of the oiler hole?


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## druist (Dec 13, 2007)

good idea. havent tried that. should i see some, what sort of amount of oil should be coming out, its been a while since i have used it working and therefore see it working properely?


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## phbrush (Dec 13, 2007)

*017 Oiler problems*

FWIW I just solved an oiling problem with my 017 by disconnecting the hose from the oil tank to the oil pump under the saw (you must remove the handle to see). I had a small amount of oil coming out of the hole behind the bar (that's why you should remove the bar) but it was mixed with lots of bubbles. After cleaning the connection with a mild spray cleaner (perchlorethene) and reseating the hose into the plastic recess where the oil pump is, I got a nice steady 'drool' out of the hole which lines up nicely with a small hole in the bar. I'm amazed this system works as well as it does, considering all of the filth that accumulates in this area.


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## demographic (Mar 22, 2010)

I know this is an old thread but I've just done a search and found it as my 017 didn't seem to be oiling.

Anyway after emptying the oil tank out, flushing it with petrol then putting some oil back in I've just fired it up without the bar and chain and its oiling fine again, must have been a oil clogged filter.

Cheers folks.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 22, 2010)

For future reference for you guys, try this before tearing everything apart. Take the bar off and get an air hose. Point the hose so that it will spin the sprocket in the OPPISITE direction of normal use. Spin it for several seconds and fire it up to see if it's working again. Sometimes it takes several tries but I've found it works most of the time. 

Dealers use this "fix" and they smile as you pay the labor bill.


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## demographic (Mar 22, 2010)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> For future reference for you guys, try this before tearing everything apart. Take the bar off and get an air hose. Point the hose so that it will spin the sprocket in the OPPISITE direction of normal use. Spin it for several seconds and fire it up to see if it's working again. Sometimes it takes several tries but I've found it works most of the time.
> 
> Dealers use this "fix" and they smile as you pay the labor bill.



Nice one, cheers.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 22, 2010)

demographic said:


> Nice one, cheers.




In all my years of working on saws I've only seen one pump go bad. Over 90% of the time it's dirt/oil parafin buildup. Plugged filter/bar or hose off makes most of the other 10%. Biggest tip I can give people is carry a paint brush in your saw supplys (gas/oil and such) and wipe plug off before filling EVERY time. 

Had one guy bring me a saw who didn't know he was supposed to put oil in it and he bought it NEW! Probably hadn't run a lot of fuel through it as he was a homeowner but after filling the tank it began pumping after been running dry all that time.

If you do have to pull the sprocket do NOT use an impact on the flywheel nut. You're setting yourself up for BIG repair bill and not worth the risk. Get some pliable nylon rope as close to the plug hole size as possible. Put the piston at the bottom of the stroke and feed as much rope into the jug as possible. Try to spiral feed it in so it completely fills the cylinder. Release the nut with normal hand tools as rope will bind the cylinder with even pressure. Or you can buy a +$100.00 holder specific to just a couple models.


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## demographic (Mar 22, 2010)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> In all my years of working on saws I've only seen one pump go bad. Over 90% of the time it's dirt/oil parafin buildup. Plugged filter/bar or hose off makes most of the other 10%. Biggest tip I can give people is carry a paint brush in your saw supplys (gas/oil and such) and wipe plug off before filling EVERY time.
> 
> Had one guy bring me a saw who didn't know he was supposed to put oil in it and he bought it NEW! Probably hadn't run a lot of fuel through it as he was a homeowner but after filling the tank it began pumping after been running dry all that time.
> 
> If you do have to pull the sprocket do NOT use an impact on the flywheel nut. You're setting yourself up for BIG repair bill and not worth the risk. Get some pliable nylon rope as close to the plug hole size as possible. Put the piston at the bottom of the stroke and feed as much rope into the jug as possible. Try to spiral feed it in so it completely fills the cylinder. Release the nut with normal hand tools as rope will bind the cylinder with even pressure. Or you can buy a +$100.00 holder specific to just a couple models.



I've read the rope trick in relation to motorcycles but its all good information, I like the paintbrush tip.

Cheers.


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## mikerecike (Jun 24, 2013)

*017 oiler - i tried this....*



Kevin in Ohio said:


> For future reference for you guys, try this before tearing everything apart. Take the bar off and get an air hose. Point the hose so that it will spin the sprocket in the OPPISITE direction of normal use. Spin it for several seconds and fire it up to see if it's working again. Sometimes it takes several tries but I've found it works most of the time.
> 
> Dealers use this "fix" and they smile as you pay the labor bill.



and it made a big improvement - anybody *know why it works?* I don't understand. Still have lots of bubbles too which I hope relates to the seating of the rubber oil line in the pump recess - will see tonight.

thank you


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## bezza1 (Jun 24, 2013)

druist said:


> on a different note, can a longer bar and chain be added to this model eg 14" as opposed to 12"?



yeah mate it will pull a 14" bar ok
i have found that the duckbill oil breather does not work properly
you can snip the end off it that has always worked for me


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## TheManOfStihl (Jun 24, 2013)

*Stihl MS170 wont oil*

I also have an MS170 Stihl that I recently acquired that will not oil. I ran it without bar and chain, and after 20-30 seconds I might see a little oil start to come out of the oiler port, followed by a bubble, then nothing for awhile. I replaced the oil pump with a known good one, no change. Cleaned the oil tank, pickup is clean but recleaned it. Line is clear of obstructions and doesn't seem damaged. Worm gear is fine and engages the oil pump. I've run out of ideas on this. I will try running the sprocket backwards with air, as stated a few posts ago, see if that helps. Otherwise I'm lost.

Does running the oil pump backwards make it pump in reverse, like to clear out the line perhaps?

Also someone mentioned where the hose plugs in under the pump being a problem area. Almost wondering if mine is sucking air at that point. I've had it on and off a few times with no luck. Hate to put sealer around it knowing I'll have to replace it at some point. Anyone have any ideas on this? Tired of using my big saws for limbing! http://www.arboristsite.com/images/smilies/msp_unsure.gif


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