# Simple system for drying green wood...fast



## Misfit138 (Jan 9, 2012)

In the past, I have mentioned a system I have used to dry green wood. I figured I would try to add some scientific measurements and pictures for this thread.

In this case, I split a 16" green, Red Oak round into similar sized pieces (about 2-3" in width, by 16" long) and removed all the bark.






Testing for moisture immediately after splitting and bringing inside, (probes are jammed in as deep as possible):





I then stacked the pieces, house-of-cards-style, right next to my stove, for 3 full days- 72 hrs. During this time, the stove burned non-stop.

Testing for moisture 72 hours later, (again, probes are jammed in as deep as possible):





The pieces lit off immediately and burned hot. No sizzling whatsoever.

A few tips I have found which aid in drying:
Split into 4 sided pieces to maximize surface area.
Remove the bark as completely as possible.
Split into smaller pieces (2-3" wide) especially for dense hardwoods.
Stack right next to the stove-nearly touching the steel.


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## ancy (Jan 9, 2012)

Sounds safe! Why not work a year a head?


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## Guido Salvage (Jan 9, 2012)

Misfit138 said:


> Stack right next to the stove-nearly touching the steel.



And then that one stringy splinter curls up to the stove and begins its slow burn.....


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## Hddnis (Jan 9, 2012)

I've done similar in the past when I ran out of seasoned wood for various reasons. Way I did it was two stacks that I alternated each week. My stove was set in a corner and I could put one stack on each side and still have over a foot of clearance to the stove. The wood I dried this way was not green, it was standing dead, but water logged to the point that splitting it squeezed water out. It kept us warm, worked good in fact. Added bonus was I didn't need the humidifier on the stove anymore.



Mr. HE


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## kykayaker27 (Jan 9, 2012)

man i like idea but my insurance agent would have a hayday,dave:msp_w00t:


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## blackdogon57 (Jan 9, 2012)

Bet it would dry even faster if you placed it on top of the stove.


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## Misfit138 (Jan 9, 2012)

Yeah. Why not work a year ahead? Things happen. Unforeseen occurrences, donating wood to someone who needs it more, etc.

Safe? Perfectly safe. Unless the room temp raises above 390 degrees Fahrenheit.

It's a great system, but only for intelligent, well informed people in need of drying wood quickly.


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## ancy (Jan 9, 2012)

Misfit138 said:


> Yeah. Why not work a year ahead? Things happen. Unforeseen occurrences, donating wood to someone who needs it more, etc.
> 
> Safe? Perfectly safe. Unless the room temp raises above 390 degrees Fahrenheit.
> 
> It's a great system, but only for intelligent, well informed people in need of drying wood quickly.



So work two years a head! So your saying the side of your stove doesn't reach that temp? I think if I was in that boat I would be buying a load of seasoned wood as I was cutting the heck out of ash. I would think that would be the smart thing to do along with testing your smoke alarms!


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## ponyexpress976 (Jan 9, 2012)

I'dlike to know what one of those "dried" pieces measured in the middle...split it again and i'd bet they are still pretty close to 30% in the center after 72 hours.


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## Hddnis (Jan 9, 2012)

ponyexpress976 said:


> I'dlike to know what one of those "dried" pieces measured in the middle...split it again and i'd bet they are still pretty close to 30% in the center after 72 hours.




I thought that at first too, and testing would be nice, I'm curious. 

After thinking about it more, I'm not sure. 72 hours is a long time and temps in that area around many stoves will exceed 120° easily. Basically kiln drying. So, yeah, a resplit and test would be a simple way to know better how this works.




Mr. HE


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## BSD (Jan 9, 2012)

we place a stack of wood along the side of our stove too, we try to keep the wood covered as well as possible outside, but this year was unprecedented rain fall and a lot of our wood got damp. the wood will sizzle for a few minutes if you put it right into the stove, however, if you let it sit next to the stove, we can dry it out in a day or two. the wood burns hotter and stove cleaner this way. win-win.

if a your pile of wood spontaneously combusts when its next to the stove, it's because the rest of the house is already on fire at that point. not much you can do at that point.


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## branchbuzzer (Jan 9, 2012)

I guess I'm missing the point of stacking it right next to the stove. Seems like you could get better ( and safer ) results by stacking the wood to the side and near the ceiling. Whenever I've measured the temperature/humidity in my stove room it's always way hotter and drier at the ceiling than at the floor, even right next to the stove. The convection circulates air around the wood and no worries about the wood falling on to the stove.


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## Valkyrie Rider (Jan 9, 2012)

I bringing about 3-4 days of wood at a time. Being that my wood is in the basement, I keep a large wood "hoop" full and then bring in and stack about another days worth on the floor. All wood is at least 6' from the stove.

My wood is all at least 2 seasons split and stacked, but my method works great for my stuff that gets rained or snowed on.


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## Chris-PA (Jan 9, 2012)

Setting wet wood near the stove is an age old trick, but you don't need to have it THAT close. If you set a small fan to blow the heat at it it helps too.


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## fields_mj (Jan 9, 2012)

Yeah, but what the heck am I going to do with firewood that 2"x3"? That's kindling, not firewood!


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## CTYank (Jan 9, 2012)

I *never *let wood alongside the stove within 2" of stove, and stove has firebrick liner on sides to slow heat throughput there. I monitor things carefully, since as the wood dries the stove will get it hotter. IR thermometer works great for this. Get it hot enough, long enough, and it will ignite.

Once the face of a split exceeds 200 deg F, it gets moved to a stack on the other side, with the other end-face facing the stove. Same deal with temp monitoring. Once both sides done, move to stack a foot away. (Bottom of stack needs special handling, of course.)

Process can take 2-4 days. Splits brought in at 15% MC end up in single-digits. Some recently-cut white ash can be in the low teens- this is a year to not get fussy, and let the really good stuff rest covered outdoors, IOW, use the worst first.

Just don't get too casual and burn the house down.


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## Misfit138 (Jan 9, 2012)

ancy said:


> So work two years a head!


Let me explain something. 
Don't worry about me; I have enough wood. I am merely providing this process as an idea for people with common sense who may have the need.


> So your saying the side of your stove doesn't reach that temp?


Yes, in my case, I am saying exactly that. I do not have an old smoke dragon. The outer steel walls on the sides of my stove (and many EPA stoves) are there to contain the convection cavities, where cold air is drawn up and heated, flowing out the top.




There is a one inch air gap in these side cavities, and I can place my calloused fingertips on them for ~5 seconds without getting burned. One the other hand, the _top_ of the stove reaches 500 deg. F.


> I think if I was in that boat I would be buying a load of seasoned wood as I was cutting the heck out of ash. I would think that would be the smart thing to do along with testing your smoke alarms!


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## olyman (Jan 9, 2012)

kykayaker27 said:


> man i like idea but my insurance agent would have a hayday,dave:msp_w00t:



dont tell him,,and tell the rest of the household mums the word..


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## stihlrookie (Jan 9, 2012)

*Kindling*

Whats the point of splits that are 2-3"? If you are splitting wood that small to burn you should just quit burning altogether. Personally I like to place the largest pieces possible in the fire to maximize burn time. Who wants to spend all their time tending that mess, tiny splits, peeling bark, stacks next to the stove, reorganize stacks, loading stove.....sounds like a big waste of time and energy. Not to mention the humidity increase inside of your home, fine if you need it not so good if you already have high humidity. Be better off to scrounge up some dry wood and put the wet stuff to bed until next season.


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## Misfit138 (Jan 9, 2012)

stihlrookie said:


> e.....sounds like a big waste of time and energy...Be better off to scrounge up some dry wood and put the wet stuff to bed until next season.



Yes, of course.

However, over the past month or so, there have been a few threads started by people who were in the position of having no dry wood at their disposal, wherein several methods for drying (as a last resort) were recommended.

This is simply an alternative which may be useful for some, and for which I added some data. It has been helpful to at least 2 users of this forum.


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## joshua mason (Jan 9, 2012)

Misfit138 said:


> Yes, of course.
> 
> However, over the past month or so, there have been a few threads started by people who were in the position of having no dry wood at their disposal, wherein several methods for drying (as a last resort) were recommended.
> 
> This is simply an alternative which may be useful for some, and for which I added some data. It has been helpful to at least 2 users of this forum.



I am one of the ones that was in need of dry wood. Sometimes stuff happens and you have to do what you can. This info is useful in certain situations. What to do with 2"x3" pieces, you burn them. You have to take what you can get and make the best of it. Beggers cant be choosers and desparate means calls for desparate measures. I am in a new place this winter, wood being my only means of heat. Next winter I will have plenty of seasoned wood ready, this year i was behind before I moved here. I am scrounging up wood for this year plus cutting for next year. Anyways, thanks for the info.


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## Guido Salvage (Jan 9, 2012)

A couple of options:







More info here:

Walker's Logs | 01285 720 940 | Index


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## zogger (Jan 9, 2012)

Misfit138 said:


> Yes, of course.
> 
> However, over the past month or so, there have been a few threads started by people who were in the position of having no dry wood at their disposal, wherein several methods for drying (as a last resort) were recommended.
> 
> This is simply an alternative which may be useful for some, and for which I added some data. It has been helpful to at least 2 users of this forum.



It is a real good post and good to see real data, I always appreciate that. And that technique *does* work.

I have had to do this trick twice now in some places I moved to with no seasoned wood the first year. works great. And to this day, like right this second, seasoned or not, I always stay a few days ahead and "cook the wood" behind the stove, next to the (brick) wall. Gives it that last little bit of drying before it goes into the stove. And ya, if I remember I flip them end for end too, as they do that final indoor seasoning.

And oddly enough, right now (well, up to a minute ago), all I have burning is a *single* 2-3" stick! I ain't kidding, that was what was burning before I threw the last chunk in just now. This mild winter, I am running just "ticking over" fires for the most part, just enough to keep the "clammy" feeling out of the room and to keep it going. We've only had a handful of bonafide cold days so far but tons of "cool" days where you want a little fire.

Heck, I am going to grab a tape measure right now...

OK, just measured what is stacked up in the room here, size of chunks. Smallest is one inch even in diameter, largest chunk is ten inches, plenty of sizes in between, well mixed, a lot in the 3-4-5-6 inch range, but a lot also smaller than that. Those big ones at 10 up to 12 inches I drop in before turning in, those are "all nighters"

It all burns. Different size and species and quantities of wood, in the firebox, is how I regulate output temp, I don't hardly ever fool around with the air intake, (two air intakes, until it gets into the low teens or single digits, one always wide open, that's it, wicked cold, both wide open, with heater loaded appropriately) and I don't run any damper whatsoever.


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## stihlrookie (Jan 9, 2012)

I have no doubt splitting into 3-4" or so sized pieces and stacking next to a fire will remove a certain amount of moisture. My point is that what you are doing is alot of extra work and, this may sound strange, actually setting yourselves backwards doing this. 

My reasoning is thus, you lose a great deal of efficiency burning wood in this manner, the smaller the pieces get, ie. a stack of 3-4" sized sticks does not burn anywhere near as long as a single 8-10" chunk if you make the stack roughly the same size, or a bit bigger than that 8-10" chunk. 

Nextly, you are also exerting a fair amount of energy as well in preparing the wood as you have, lots of splitting, peeling bark, the stacking and restacking around your stove and so on. 

I understand that you have to do what you have to do but it just seems wasteful to do this with wood that is much more valuable if you could just wait and let it season in larger chunks. 

We are fortunate, I guess now that I think about it, we live in a fairly industrious area and there are many opportunities for dry wood right near my house. Pallets being my first thought, I seem to see a stack of them every time I am out and about with a big "free firewood" sign posted. You can find some choice pallets constructed of good burning wood types of you are picky. There are also a couple of mills nearby that sell pick-up loads of mill-ends for a reasonable amount, 40.00 a load last I saw. I can't even count the tree service and grounds maintenance companies that typically just give the wood to any who ask, you need to haul it yourself of course unless they happen to working at your neighbors and can just drop it for you. Obviously some of that wood is going to need drying as well, thats a start on next year or the following. I am sure if I was in real need I could come up with more sources for dry wood to burn. 

Bottom line, I would not sacrifice good firewood if I could avoid it. Splitting into tiny pieces is sacrificing. I would find something, anything dry to burn.

As someone else posted, it would be interesting to see what the moisture content is inside of one of your pieces of 72 hour seasoned wood. Could you split one after your process and let us know the results? I know I am advocating wastefulness now, I am curious though. Cheers.


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## Misfit138 (Jan 10, 2012)

stihlrookie said:


> ..I understand that you have to do what you have to do but it just seems wasteful to do this with wood that is much more valuable if you could just wait and let it season in larger chunks.


Yes.. Sometimes things happen, and that is not an option. 


> Bottom line, I would not sacrifice good firewood if I could avoid it. Splitting into tiny pieces is sacrificing...


Look at the first picture in this thread. If you think that piece of wood is "tiny", then you have a much larger stove than I do. That piece was _about_ 3X3X16. Good size for my stove. Largest usable pieces for my stove would be 5x5x18, which I would only use for overnight; anything bigger does not burn very well. 3-4" pieces are best for my stove.
I simply highlighted that size as more optimal for drying for a small to medium size stove. Again, common sense would fill in the gaps for a given situation.


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## jrider (Jan 10, 2012)

Ah the smell of cat p*ss...um I mean green oak!


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## CRThomas (Jan 10, 2012)

*Drying wood*

I only sell and burn Ash. I can split green wood one day put it in my shop two have ranks on stands my shop stays 64 degrees with my slow turning 6 ft fan the next day it will be 15 percent. I put some Oakin there it took a week to bring it under 20 percent. I sell Ash burn Ash for Burn ash in my kiln. Low ash,good heat no snap crackle pop. You can run out of oak and your house be cold. You run out of ash the next day you can burn the you cut down yesterday. My customer will not burn any thing else.


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## Dalmatian90 (Jan 10, 2012)

1) having ahumid house in winter while running a woodstove is not a phenomena i'm familiar with

2) there are situations of stove + house + weather those 8" pieces burn to slow to provide the rate of release needed to make the temperature desired.

4" seems to be the commonest diameter in my area, maybe some 8"pieces for overnighters and some small ones forquick,hot fires in the morning to warm the house up.


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## CRThomas (Jan 10, 2012)

*Info*



joshua mason said:


> I am one of the ones that was in need of dry wood. Sometimes stuff happens and you have to do what you can. This info is useful in certain situations. What to do with 2"x3" pieces, you burn them. You have to take what you can get and make the best of it. Beggers cant be choosers and desparate means calls for desparate measures. I am in a new place this winter, wood being my only means of heat. Next winter I will have plenty of seasoned wood ready, this year i was behind before I moved here. I am scrounging up wood for this year plus cutting for next year. Anyways, thanks for the info.


 if a person knew every body arrangments we who have been doing this for years with the could help better. Do you have a shop garage lean to is your fire box a little one a big one is your house well insulated. You might not like our ideas but they work for us. Here I live at in that area if two people can pick up a piece of firewood it's to small and if it's not oak you don't know what your doing. I have to go out of my area to sell Ash. Later


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## stihlrookie (Jan 10, 2012)

I am still curious about the moisture content of the interior of a piece of wood dryed with this method. I have used many of those pin-type meters, they judge moisture between the pins and not very deep into your test material. Split a chunk that has dryed for your specified 72 hours and test it. I want to know for my own information.


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## Misfit138 (Jan 10, 2012)

stihlrookie said:


> I am still curious about the moisture content of the interior of a piece of wood dryed with this method. I have used many of those pin-type meters, they judge moisture between the pins and not very deep into your test material. Split a chunk that has dryed for your specified 72 hours and test it. I want to know for my own information.



Will do. I can repeat the experiment and re-split.


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## joshua mason (Jan 10, 2012)

CRThomas said:


> if a person knew every body arrangments we who have been doing this for years with the could help better. Do you have a shop garage lean to is your fire box a little one a big one is your house well insulated. You might not like our ideas but they work for us. Here I live at in that area if two people can pick up a piece of firewood it's to small and if it's not oak you don't know what your doing. I have to go out of my area to sell Ash. Later



I dont recall ever saying I didn't like anyones ideas. I posted to thank the op, which I did. You are right, we dont know each others arrangements, so why would some of the posters come down on the op thinking his idea is stupid. It may prove useful to some. New house, misjudged and ran out of wood could both be reasons the ops info could be useful. In my area I do not know of any place to get pallets and cant find many landowners that will let me come on there land to cut standing dead or old blow downs. I am however starting to come up with a few places to cut wood and will have plenty for next burn season. My house is well insulated, I do not have a shed but plan on building one this summer, my firebox will hold enough wood for about 4 hours of burntime on cold days, but what does any of that have to do with this thread or me saying thank you to the op for trying to help someone out. Also if I completely misunderstood your intent I appologize in advance.

PS. The reason for my first post was to show that certain situations do exist where this info can be useful and help someone get out of a pinch. I was not trying to create trouble with anyone.


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## dustytools (Jan 10, 2012)

I have read reveral threads over the years about people running low on firewood for one reason or another. Im fortunate to own a 31 acre farm to cut wood on so I rarely ever run low, however. I have also seen a lot of other members pitch in with ideas of how to help the low running poster come up with ways to scrounge for wood, dry their wood faster etc... What works for one might not work for another. Give the OP a break, he gets on here with good intentions, trying to give ideas that he thinks will possibly help someone, and it sounds like it already has helped out a fella or two. I see a lot of old farmers here in rural Kentucky cut wood today and burn it tomorrow, its all they have ever known, not saying I agree, but its all they have ever known and I sure as hell aint gonna stop and tell them that they dont know what they are doing. Happy burning people!!


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## ancy (Jan 10, 2012)

Misfit138 said:


> Let me explain something.
> Don't worry about me; I have enough wood. I am merely providing this process as an idea for people with common sense who may have the need.
> 
> Yes, in my case, I am saying exactly that. I do not have an old smoke dragon. The outer steel walls on the sides of my stove (and many EPA stoves) are there to contain the convection cavities, where cold air is drawn up and heated, flowing out the top.
> ...



I see you have little ones so use your common sence! If I read right you said you gave your wood away and now you have enough :msp_confused:!!!!!


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## CRThomas (Jan 11, 2012)

*Drying*

I have taken wood after I have split it my customers size and cut them into with my chop saw and tested it is a little wet like 3 to 5 percent. But remember my wood is not as big as your waist. I have tried it on wood that is large as some people like so the don't have keep filling there burner it will be 15 on out side cut it end to and it will be 35 in the middle even after lay in chunks all summer. I live in southern Illinois where we have hot dry summers. This test was done on oak and hickory. ash I don't have this problem the test was closer to the out side percent of the wood. The Ash no bark. The Oak had bark on it. I done the test as I sell it and the way my friend burn it. Later


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## kmcinms (Jan 11, 2012)

I dry damp wood on my hearth sometimes when the upper layers of my stack got wet, and I don't mind the "humidity" from the drying wood. Never kept green wood in the house long enough to dry it out. I'm sure it "wood" work fine though.
I have to chime in on the small splits and wasting wood comments. The OP is burning green wood split small to keep his fire burning hot till the larger splits dry enough to burn efficiently.
Our winters are mild compared to you guys that burn for 4 months solid without having to re-light your stove. On mild days, small splits work great to have just enough fire that you don't get the stove too hot that you can't stay in the house. I'll use something other than my best oaks for this purpose. Your wife will have more time in tending your fires, but there is no wasting, if that's how you regulate your heat output.


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## Misfit138 (Jan 11, 2012)

ancy said:


> I see you have little ones so use your common sence!


You bet. Always do. 



> If I read right you said you gave your wood away and now you have enough :msp_confused:!!!!!



I was just stating that as an example. 


Misfit138 said:


> ..Things happen. Unforeseen occurrences, donating wood to someone who needs it more, etc...


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## CRThomas (Jan 12, 2012)

*Drying wood*



Valkyrie Rider said:


> I bringing about 3-4 days of wood at a time. Being that my wood is in the basement, I keep a large wood "hoop" full and then bring in and stack about another days worth on the floor. All wood is at least 6' from the stove.
> 
> My wood is all at least 2 seasons split and stacked, but my method works great for my stuff that gets rained or snowed on.


remember moving air shortens you drying time just a small fan and it brings hot air from ceiling down to floor level you have even heat with less burn wood. Later


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## CRThomas (Jan 12, 2012)

*Drying wood test*

Made another test after reading your items he. Bought stove at the flea market set it in my lean to were I could stick the pipe out the back put frame over it put a half rank of oak on it. Fired the stove up with waste from my splitter. Opened every thing up on the stove let her run. Went out at 2100 to refill the stove the wood was smoking and water pouring out of the wood. I went back at 0100 filled the stove up agin water had quit run out and the wood was not smoking. 1000 got back from town the wood had cooled down where I could handle it. It was all 8 to 12 percent. Another way to dry. Not practicable. If you had a place were you could put a lot of wood and had workers 24 hours a day to fill the stove ever three four hours. Another way in a emergency. I burn about as much as I dried it was waste but a person not having a lot of waste would cost to much to heat by wood if they were buying it. Just a test give me another idea and I'll try it. I got caught up in my firewood business so got the after noon to try stuff. I have a 20 x 7 x 8 ft kiln but I just use it for storage my shop drys enough wood to keep me way ahead. When I use my kiln I have to have a lot of waste the cast iron boiler it use to be keep the container between 150 and 180 degrees. I only us it when in a bind.


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## wdchuck (Jan 12, 2012)

There is a guy nearby that heats a split level ranch with a small stove and uses a similar technique as Misfit. 

His wood is split 2x4, 3x3, and remains in that size range by 20" length. 
The splits are stored outside but he keeps three days worth stacked criss-cross on some cinder blocks so the wood is from waist high to head height about three feet from the stove which had a short L-shaped cinder block wall around it to keep the young child and pets from getting too close. He is a safety minded, preventive maintenance type of chap. 

The wood he was going to use at the next fill was place above the stove to get as dry as absolutely possible. To his credit, the house is warm as a toaster oven and built in the 70's so the insulation value is average and he only uses two cord per year. 

This has been his method for many years, and getting up once during the night to refill goes right along with getting older and having to let the other moisture out anyway. 

When I asked why he didn't use thicker splits for the overnight he looked at me like I'd suddendly grown and extra head so well enough was left alone. 

Bottom line, it works for him, the family is warm.


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## arborealbuffoon (Jan 12, 2012)

OK I confess...I stack wood very close to my stove continuously. Started doing it in the late 80's after I bought one of those silly looking hoops from Goodwill for a buck. 

This year I abruptly re-entered the world of wood heat after a long hiatus. Glad I did. Wonderful heat, good for the body and soul. So, just started putting up wood in September, although I do have access to some well seasoned stuff thru friends as well. I have almost two cords stacked up inside the heated space, and a little 20 inch box fan does miracles. The stove is basically curing it's own wood supply as we progress thru a (thankfully) mild winter.

Too many insurance agents and lawyers in this country promoting "fear" to serve their own agendas. I am not afraid, nor am I stupid. Never set anything ablaze using wood appliances in my entire life (except for the fuel inside the box!)

Now, that locust and oak don't exactly smell like roses while they cure. I guess there IS a downside....

Whatever works for a guy is alright by me. Not here to judge or to be judged.


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## Misfit138 (Jan 13, 2012)

Misfit138 said:


> Will do. I can repeat the experiment and re-split.



Ok, by stihlrookie's request, Tuesday I split another 16" piece:





Measured 33% moisture after being split:




After 72 hours, I could not get a reading on the outside..read 00% everywhere on the outside even when jamming it:




On the inside, (for those of you not standing on your head it reads 12%):





For what it's worth.


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## CRThomas (Jan 13, 2012)

*Answer*

I live in a area where if you don't burn chunks of Oak 24 x 12 inch you don't know how to build a fire. People cry about things if it's not there way. I like your test I like it when people can take the time to get out of the ditch and look around. I was in England for a company I work for and I remember there firewood was 6 x 6 inch chunks the stove they had had the lid on the top just open and drop in didn't think any thing that it was neat. A different way that work for them. Don't even know what kind of wood that little stove keep a 2 story home comfortable and they cooked on the top some times like a big pot of soup. They had a ice box on the back porch. I hadn't seen a ice box in 45 years. I was very impressed with the fellows life style.


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## Hddnis (Jan 13, 2012)

The wood they burn in Europe is the size of the wooden toy blocks I played with as a kid.




Mr. HE


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