# Replacement Husqvarna parts



## mad_mat222 (Jul 10, 2019)

Hi all,
I have a seized 322l line trimmer and a 570BTS blower. Both straight gassed (mates employees‍). Does anyone know of aftermarket parts for these. Stihl copies are everywhere but can’t find anything for husky. The genuine parts in Australia prevent repair being a cost effective option. Better off throwing away and getting knew machine. The blower is brand new and I really want to replace the piston and cyclinder. 

Cheers
Mat


----------



## LegDeLimber (Jul 17, 2019)

I haven't noticed any aftermarket motor bits for the 570 or ebz7500

I have a couple of ebz8500 Redmax units that were lean seized.
So I've been looking for affordable parts also.
I did find a few listings for the 580~ebz8500 units recently.

From what the internet says, it seems like the 580 ~ 8500 top end may fit the 570 ~ 7500 crankcases.
I'd ask a dealer or someone who has worked on them, before buying anything.
May look at base gaskets and intake parts, cylinder shroud, etc to see what fit what.
If the the larger piston & cylinder fit both engines, might be a way to get going at reduced cost.
But again, I say ask someone about your specific unit and then decide if it's worth the gamble.
Heck, just shipping & taxes may be prohibitive for you.

I've never dealt with these sellers, so I have no idea as to if they're ok to buy from. 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/EBZ...ston-piston-ring-spare-parts/32674436817.html

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Cylind...521099&hash=item1cd4945340:g:70MAAOSwdd5dH303

http://www.weldertool.com/oem-engine-cylinder-assy/22721369.html


----------



## mad_mat222 (Jul 17, 2019)

Hi,
So you are saying, some husqvarna and red max parts are interchangeable? We don’t have red max over this way so I can’t do a comparison. $57 is a pretty cheap punt if it saves you throwing away a $1000 machine.


----------



## LegDeLimber (Jul 18, 2019)

I've only read other peoples remarks that the Redmax and Husqvarna share -some- common engine parts.
Unfortunately, I do not have any personal experience with trying any of the actual parts.
That's why I wish a dealer or mechanic for the two brands might see this and offer some facts.

I picked up the non-running, damaged ebz8500 units at a garage clean out and thus have NO experience with what fits what.

What gave me the idea of trying the different cylinders on the blowers was
that as I looked for parts (and better pricing) at that time, I noticed a number of things crossed over to the different units.

I would strongly suggest looking at engine mounts and blower housings to see if things match.
It wouldn't take much of a mismatch to kill the project.
The time eater is going to be all of the cross checking of parts listings.

Seemed like cylinder base gaskets, intake manifold gaskets and a few other things were listed as common to the particular units that I have here.
Bearings and seals were also listed as the same items.
This was what kept me from just getting rid the blowers carcasses. 
Now keep in mind the fact that the person I got them from, DID get rid of them.

Now keep in mind these units that I have are a few years old now.
So everything that I read, could be, no longer applicable for newer units.
That's why I say to look at the parts listing for your specific unit and see IF any parts are listed as fitting other blowers.

I Wish I had something more definitive to tell you.


----------



## LegDeLimber (Jul 18, 2019)

Sad to say that I've had to move the pile of damaged parts, once again.
And after having them under foot for so long,
I'm sorely tempted to just put the lot out at the roadside for trash pickup.
Just the money and time and health (for these projects) are not so easy to come by in recent years.


----------



## mad_mat222 (Jul 18, 2019)

Just compared the 570 v 580 and they are different engines 65.6 and 75.6 cc respectively. However, you mentioned the 580 and the Redmax we compatible. So I compared the 570 and the EBZ7500 and on paper they sound the same. Same displacement and even same spark plug. There enough similarities I think I’ll try a Redmax unit on the husqvarna.

Just checked the HEZ230 against the husqvarna 322l and same specs. Could be into something here.


----------



## mad_mat222 (Jul 18, 2019)

And just a suggestion in the meantime, perhaps someone with a busted 570 could compare bits with the owner of a busted 7500 or at least throw up a couple of photos.


----------



## LegDeLimber (Jul 18, 2019)

Yeah, it was seeing the same gaskets and other bits listed for both the 65cc & 75cc engines that kept me thinking:
"oh surely someone will come along to sell parts for them" 
"They're too popular to not to. Right?"

Eh. 
I'm about ready to scavenge all of the ignitions, carbys and recoils, etc
and maybe keep enough plastics to assemble two units and just toss the rest.

The pistons were lean seized and run until the crown melted.
I think maaaybe one or two of them might have been shut down before the aluminum spray went walkabout in the big end rod bearing.

A damaged rod bearing, would be a project killer.
I just kept thinking that IF a piston and rings ever became reasonably priced.....
Then I would try flushing things, while feeling for any roughness and then gamble a few bucks on a fresh top end
if the crank & rod didn't feel trashed.

Last time I checked, a short block was about 60 percent of the price of a new blower.
Ad in a few bits here and there... missing air pipes etc, and sadly you're at 75~85 percent of new unit price veerrry quickly.


----------



## mad_mat222 (Jul 19, 2019)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/326...lgo_pvid=c700b92a-1a6a-4cbe-82a5-3eeeca783147


----------



## mad_mat222 (Jul 19, 2019)

This is an AliExpress one. Should do the job and less than a $100


----------



## LegDeLimber (Jul 19, 2019)

Hmm. That'll have to go in my bookmarks. 
Household and transportation expenses have been digging into the reserves lately.
Fortunately I do have running, Echo backpack, so at least I'm not under pressure to chase the Redmax project.
...thus My thoughts of just tossing some excess projects that are in the way of dealing with other, more important repairs.


----------



## mad_mat222 (Jul 20, 2019)

I bit the bullet and purchased the cheap 570 kit. Will update how it goes. Got to wait 3 weeks for it to arrive.


----------



## mad_mat222 (Aug 18, 2019)

So i received the bits. The piston is 50mm. Think original is 48mm. This unit is nickosil as opposed to the steel liner of genuine item. I’m guessing the larger piston is so they don’t need to manufacture the more expensive liner. 

The blanking plates that cover the transfer ports don’t fit. Because the piston is significantly larger, the cylinder wall has pushed out. Fix is to grind plate where it fouls. 

Put machine back together, it idles fine and revs to half throttle but try full throttle and it stalls. Not sure if it’s a fuel problem or an air leak. 

The carb doesn’t appear tuneable. 

Any suggestions. 

For the money does appear to be worth it at this stage.


----------



## mad_mat222 (Aug 19, 2019)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_6,searchweb201603_52

Just saw this one which includes the transfer port covers. I think I would get that one next time. Not sure why it’s an extra $20 though.


----------



## LegDeLimber (Sep 2, 2019)

Sorry that I haven't been around of late, Sometimes I'm in a location where I can't access or log in.

Did you find out what's causing the low revs?
A quick check for spark strength and a known good spark plug?
For a homebrew test,Take a good spark plug and bend the ground strap all the way out to the side.
You want to create an air gap of at least 5mm.
Now see if the spark jumps the 5~6mm gap with a causal pull of the recoil rope. Not a big hard jerk!
Is the spark blue and easily heard as a good snap while pulling at an easy speed?

I'd have to also look at the fuel tank and check the venting and then on to the fuel line and filter.
Any pinches, kinking, fuel line gone soft. Any cracks, tears.
Or other damages from the rebuilding process?
Heck, I've even dealt with insects crawling into things that weren't plugged off while the parts were removed.

Does it crank and idle properly.
Any bogging when you hit the throttle or just doesn't rev fully.

Do you have a compression tester? I'd like to see at least 140psi to expect it to rev up with the impeller load.

Since you mention having to grind the port covers, have you checked the engine for pressure and vacuum leaks? 
Any excess weepage at the crank seals?
A broken ring or just not seated and sealing can allow enough blow by that the engine wont rev up under the load of the impeller.
Will it rev up fully if you totally block the air tube outlet? 
Blocking it allows the impeller to unload the engine.

Are you using pure gasoline (with 2 cycle oil mixed) or has the unit been run on any ethanol.
If there are no leaks or fuel system damages, then I'd take a look into the carburetor. Are you comfortable with tear down and inspecting the carb?

Did you take a good look at the new aftermarket cylinder before mounting it?
Are the ports close to the shape of the factory cylinders?
Any bad looking regions or rough/sharp edges that could damage the rings?


----------



## LegDeLimber (Sep 2, 2019)

Is the air filter clean and dry? 
If the unit has been rolled over so that fuel&oil could wet the paper filter element, it will not pass enough air to rev properly.


And how about gaskets and sealants?
Did you replace all of the gaskets?
How about any use of sealants. Most places you only need a light film of sealer to do the job.
Any excess can get squeezed into vacuum ports (blocking carb functions)
Or it can clog the cylinder ports, etc.


----------



## mad_mat222 (Sep 5, 2019)

Pretty sure it’s the carby. I stripped it replaced one of the gaskets and the tank filter. Reassembled and it won’t idle anymore but will happily rev wot. Seems to be starving of fuel now at low rpm. There’s no other leaks that I’m aware of. 

On the positive the cheap piston is going well. And it only occurred to me after my last post that the piston size difference is because it’s for the 8500 not the 7500. I was thinking the extra cc was going to cause it to run lean but with these carbs, sucking more air will pull more fuel so not an issue. 

There are no adjustments other than the idle on these wya carbs so I’m at a loss. I could order a new carb. Local dealer wants over $100 aud. At least he laughed and told me I would want to buy it before he told me the price. It must have toyota stamped on it somewhere.


----------



## LegDeLimber (Sep 6, 2019)

Be very careful with your test runs and don't lean seize the new cylinder & piston.
I think the factory tuned these units rather close to being dangerously lean.
The units I have were ALL damaged by that lean jetting from the factory.

So be mindful of the carb tuning. You may need to up size the main jet.

Along with verifying that the throttle controls are all in order,
I'd be looking closely for anything that could be an air leak.
You probably should check carefully items #8 #10 #11 in this link.
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...wers/ebz8500-sn10200101-and-up-2014-04/engine
Don't forget to check the seal on the face of the carb body.

Just a quick reach into the pile of lean sized units sitting here.
A couple of quick snapshots, but You can see that item #8 (carburetor insulator) took a good bit heat and began to melt.
The dark stuff sort of hanging into the openings is the plastic that oozed out into the ports.
The gray stuff that sort of resembles a sprinkling of salt, is actually aluminum splatter from the the piston dome/crown.
The operators ran this unit until it melted a hole in the piston. 
Sorry the pics aren't properly lit, but I just wanted a quick image to post for now.

Are you familiar with the accessing the low speed mixture needle adjustment?
https://www.walbro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/WYAseries.pdf
This pdf shows where the need is located. Look at page 3.
The number 17 arrow points to where the needle is located down in the middle of the throttle barrel. 
You probably need to remove a plug or bit of sealer, in the top, to access the head of the needle. 

==
Forgive me for my missives being even more fragmented than usual.
I'm a bit sleep deprived at the moment (stormy weather has stirred my arthritis & migraines). I'm not in the direct hurricane affected areas, but the barometric swings still reach out surprisingly far.


----------



## mad_mat222 (Sep 6, 2019)

Hi, the walbro wya236 does not have any adjustments except the idle adjustment. The frustrating thing is I could only get to half throttle before now I can only get wot. Might need to put a new gasket kit through it.


----------



## mad_mat222 (Oct 2, 2019)

Hi All, 
Replaced the carb and gasket and machine runs sweet as. It starts first pull which my machine with genuine parts doesn’t ‍ Carb was about $20. For less than $150aud have an almost new engine. Will do it again. If someone finds cheap parts for the husky 322l or redmax 230 or 260 let me know. Cheers


----------



## LegDeLimber (Oct 17, 2019)

Good to see you got it sorted.

Sorry that i've fallen off of checking in here. Seems I've been doing more DR visits than anything else of late and my mind has been a bit overstuffed by things.


----------

