# Your favorite log splitter design features



## Four Paws (Oct 24, 2008)

I am going to be building a splitter this winter. It will be horizontal and along the lines of the larger HD commercial splitters - Timberwolf, Rayco, Iron&Oak, the big Norstar, etc.

I want to take ALL the good features from each machine and incorporate them into my splitter. I would like you guys to chime in with your favorite design features, as well as the design features you absolutely HATE so I can get this thing right the first time. For Example, you may like the wedge design on 'A' splitter but absolutely hate the log lift, and you may really like the log lift on 'B' splitter, but not be too fond of the engine/oil tank placement. 

I am interested in ergonomics as well - I want it to be comfortable to operate for hours on end. Beam height, lever placement, etc.

Thanks, Josh


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## A. Stanton (Oct 24, 2008)

I would advise to give it a little height, so you are not stooped over. Be sure to put some strippers on so that the log will be freed on the return if stuck. And make a table. Here's a pic of one I bought on Ebay from a guy with the handle 33flame. He's out of Montana and it costs about $70. I added the diamond plate so that cookies wouldn't fall through. And make sure that you can go vertical to deal with any big stuff if you don't use a lift.
I had some added thoughts: give it some decent tires, in case you go on a highway and add a tool box. It would be handy for spare bolts, tools, etc.


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## BlueRidgeMark (Oct 24, 2008)

Put the wedge on the ram, Josh. Even with a big ram, you can get stuck, and not be able to push through with the next piece of wood. If you get in that situation, you'll be hammering away with a sledge hammer, wishing you'd put the wedge on the ram. With the proper guard, you can reverse the ram and dislodge a stuck piece.

Don't listen to those who say that you can just push it through, unless you always split wimpy wood!

Take a look at Speeco/Huskee's built-in log cradle. Not only does it keep the rounds from wandering around, it also reinforces the beam. Works very well. I see some pretty nice splitters with a flat top, and I think, "That balancing act would not be fun!". No balancing anything with the Speeco design. Once the round is up there, you could just split it with no hands on the wood at all, if you wanted to.

This is aside from a log lift. That's nice if you're splitting horizontally, but it does a different job than the cradle.

YMMV, void where prohibited, some restrictions apply, see dealer for details. This has been a public service announcement. Not available in all states.


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## wdchuck (Oct 24, 2008)

For trailering, and backing it up into place with a truck or similar, long enough tongue.

For easier road towing, suspension of some kind, maybe something built into the axle......torsion axle?


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## Four Paws (Oct 24, 2008)

Anyone have a good source on hydraulic components besides northern? I don't know much about the valves - there are so many options - I want (at most) a 3-lever valve to handle the splitting ram, log lift and hydraulic wedge.

To touch on some of the comments and suggestions you guys brought up...I got a good buy on a 12' long 10"x28 lb. I-beam, so I have plenty of length and BEEF to make a strong splitter. I plan on the splitter having a nice set of running gear, although I do not plan on towing it much, if at all. I will have a nice log table to save my back and speed up the process of re-splitting the big logs.

I have considered a log lift - however I am wondering if it won't get in the way more often than not. I guess that can always be added at a later date.

I do plan on making a 4-way wedge. Wether it is an adjustable hydraulic 4-way wedge, or simply a manual slip-over type, I haven't decided. Hydraulic is cool, but it raises the cost and will I see a substantial benefit? I like a 6-8" wide piece for easy handling and loading into the stove. I do see the benefit if I have the wedge manually set at say 8" and I have an 10" round - would make more sense to adjust to the middle and end up with two 5" piecesrather than remove it manually and split the round, then each of the pieces again to avoid ending up with kindling.

Thanks for the input, keep it coming!


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## Chuck Diesel (Oct 24, 2008)

I built mine last year and the one thing that i was stuck on was my working height of the machine, so i made sure it was going to be the same height of the tailgate of the truck empty. Which ended up being 32". 
My H beam is 8x8 w/ 9/16" flange. 12" wedge from northern tool, 18 hp Briggs, 22 gpm, 25 gal. hyd. tank, cylinder is a 5x2x30".
The only thing that i would change now would be the engine size, i should have gone with a 12 hp.


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## AKKAMAAN (Oct 25, 2008)

*Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee.....*

Speed like a 2" bore force like 4" bore....
Use this valve.....go for the YDEC: 120 L/min maximum regeneration flow, aluminum housing, .....SUN dealer will help you config....
Use this regenerative valve together with a Prince Logsplitter Valve - LS-3000-2 - Pressure Release Detent - ¾" Work Ports will give you AUTOMATIC 2-speed with a single stage pump...
Set system pressure relief to 3000psi...
Use a 4" bore with a 2" rod cylinder....If you are not going to split longer than 16" don´t go for more than 18"-20" stroke...18" will save you 25% cycle time compaired to 24" stroke....

With a 3500 rpm motor. around 10hp and a 4" bore 2" rod cylinder, 3000psi and the Prince valve and this regenerative valve plus thisHaldex High Performance Gear Pump 0.61 cui pump  you will get a super performing splitter....

at 9.25 gpm and 3000psi, how about 18.8 ton/6.4 sec cycle on slow speed, and 4.7 ton/1.6 sec cycle on high speed, retract always 4.8 sec...

speed performance only if engine don´t drop rpm from load....
you need 3/4" 3000psi hoses to cylinder....on high speed your max flow will be 37 gpm!!!!!!!

Read more about pressure sensitive regeneration on this sun pdf...



"Sun" regenerative valve 170$ + shipping from
Hydra-Power Systems, Inc. 
5445 NE 122nd Avenue
P.O. Box 20549
Portland, OR 97230 
ph# (503) 777-3361
www.hydrapowersystems.com


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## cityevader (Oct 25, 2008)

Working height for sure.
Can't remember where i read it, but 10 inches below the elbow is the optimal working height for counters, tables, etc.
I need to jack mine up to keep my body from giving out.

Wedge height... Whether fixed or moving, it sucks to split through a two foot round with a 6 inch wedge and not actually split it....getting stuck and working it until the two halves split apart....needs a tall wedge!!!

As hotrods have the slogan "no substitute for displacement", same goes for splitters.... big torque and GPM rocks.

Please place the control valve where you can actually reach it, and decide ahead of time if you split right from the truck/trailer or from the pile on the ground, and loading the splitter into/away from the tow-ball....where do you want the rounds and splits to enter exit compared to the delivery vehicle?


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## Four Paws (Oct 25, 2008)

AKKAMAAN said:


> Speed like a 2" bore force like 4" bore....
> Use this valve.....go for the YDEC: 120 L/min maximum regeneration flow, aluminum housing, .....SUN dealer will help you config....
> Use this regenerative valve together with a Prince Logsplitter Valve - LS-3000-2 - Pressure Release Detent - ¾" Work Ports will give you AUTOMATIC 2-speed with a single stage pump...
> Set system pressure relief to 3000psi...
> ...



Good reading...thanks! I have a 35gpm single stage pump but I think that would be too much - LOL! SO, the sun valve is the way to go instead of using a two-stage pump? The single stage pump is cheaper than the 2-stage, so that will help offset the sun valve.


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## superfire (Oct 25, 2008)

*ideas*

http://www.surpluscenter.com/ <------- hydra parts
build the splitter so the split piecez go away fro the operators station

like this >

tongue 
T
+ 
I
engine>O I D <oil tank
I
I
I _______I <axle/ beam pivot point/operator station
I
I<ram
I
H 
opcorn:


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## AKKAMAAN (Oct 25, 2008)

Four Paws said:


> Good reading...thanks! I have a 35gpm single stage pump but I think that would be too much - LOL! SO, the sun valve is the way to go instead of using a two-stage pump? The single stage pump is cheaper than the 2-stage, so that will help offset the sun valve.


Y Think so, Sun have these valves for bigger cylinders to, if you want more force with a 5"x2"x18".....
Raise the pressure and lower the flow for the same performance......will give you less weight, less power losses due to high flow, less over heating, smaller and less expensive parts up to 3000psi, which is a good pressure level to stay at. Over 3000psi, parts need more advanced engineering and high performance steel and for that starts getting more expensive....next pressure bracket on parts, is 5000psi....
I think most splitters operate at 1500-2500 psi today, and have a 5" bore to compensate that lower pressure. To get a descent cycle time you need to pump around twice the amonut of oil, which takes bigger pump, bigger reservoir, bigger hoses, and give you more over heat problems......


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## AKKAMAAN (Oct 25, 2008)

superfire said:


> http://www.surpluscenter.com/ <------- hydra parts
> QUOTE]
> I like that 10HP Toro diesel w electric start


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## cabinman (Oct 25, 2008)

*sweet*



AKKAMAAN said:


> Speed like a 2" bore force like 4" bore....
> Use this valve.....go for the YDEC: 120 L/min maximum regeneration flow, aluminum housing, .....SUN dealer will help you config....
> Use this regenerative valve together with a Prince Logsplitter Valve - LS-3000-2 - Pressure Release Detent - ¾" Work Ports will give you AUTOMATIC 2-speed with a single stage pump...
> Set system pressure relief to 3000psi...
> ...



My Question is ,. Will the valve handle 37 gpm ? Eric


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## mga (Oct 25, 2008)

mount a 12" wedge on the beam. that way, you can always slip on a "four way" if you want to. add wide wings to the back of the wedge to assist in splitting.

adjust the ram so that it stops about 1/2 to 1" away from the wedge at full extend.


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## blackdoggy (Oct 25, 2008)

What cubic inch single stage pump is ideal for a splitter with a 4 inch cylinder?


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## triptester (Oct 25, 2008)

Prince has come out with a new log splitter valve, LSR 3060-3, it looks similar to the regular log splitter valve but operates the same as a regenerative valve at less cost and simpler installation.


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## Four Paws (Oct 25, 2008)

AKKAMAAN said:


> Y Think so, Sun have these valves for bigger cylinders to, if you want more force with a 5"x2"x18".....
> Raise the pressure and lower the flow for the same performance......will give you less weight, less power losses due to high flow, less over heating, smaller and less expensive parts up to 3000psi, which is a good pressure level to stay at. Over 3000psi, parts need more advanced engineering and high performance steel and for that starts getting more expensive....next pressure bracket on parts, is 5000psi....
> I think most splitters operate at 1500-2500 psi today, and have a 5" bore to compensate that lower pressure. To get a descent cycle time you need to pump around twice the amonut of oil, which takes bigger pump, bigger reservoir, bigger hoses, and give you more over heat problems......



So, you are saying the 35gpm pump would be ok to use if I wanted to go to a larger cylinder?

Tie rod or welded cylinder better? Welded looks better but looks aren't everything. 

You think running multiple single-spool log splitter valves is the way to go? Or would I be better to find a 3-spool valve with a detent on 1 spool?

Thanks, Josh


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## AKKAMAAN (Oct 25, 2008)

cabinman said:


> My Question is ,. Will the valve handle 37 gpm ? Eric



9.25gpm is coming from the pump and 27.7 gpm is regenrated from the rod side of the cylinder. The prince valve is handling the 9.25gpm and the SUN-valve is handling 27.7gpm total 37gpm into the piston.


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## AKKAMAAN (Oct 25, 2008)

triptester said:


> Prince has come out with a new log splitter valve, LSR 3060-3, it looks similar to the regular log splitter valve but operates the same as a regenerative valve at less cost and simpler installation.



Yes thats true, but then operator have to deal with 4 positions when operating, 

but thge big difference is that the Prince valve is only good for 25gpm extend flow at 4 gpm inlet flow ....
then you are down to lower pump flow AND less than 3.5" bore cylinder....
read Prince pdf here
opcorn:


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## AKKAMAAN (Oct 25, 2008)

Four Paws said:


> So, you are saying the 35gpm pump would be ok to use if I wanted to go to a larger cylinder?
> 
> Tie rod or welded cylinder better? Welded looks better but looks aren't everything.
> 
> ...


HI Josh! 

No I didnt say that.

A 35 gpm pump is a HUGE pump on a logsplitter. You need a tractor PTO to turn that pump, very high torque AND low rpm. HOW ARE YOU PLANNING TO POWER THAT PUMP? a 10hp HONDA or a Tractor PTO???

You can use a 35gpm pump into a 25 gpm valve but 40-50% of input power will be wasted to push oil thru an under sized orifice in the valve....OVERHEATING!! QUICKLY!!

When you look at pumps, DON'T look at the advertized "22gpm" or"35gpm", because it don't tell you everthing you need to know. 

You need to know following:
Pump Displcement in cui/rev like 0.61 cui/rev
max Speed recommendation like 4000 rpm
Max pressure like 3500 psi.

From this you can figure flow in gpm. For every 1000rpm this pump will make 610 cui=2.64 gpm

It's the same thing with the cylinder. You need to know following:
Bore diam, like 4" bore
Rod diam, like 2" diam
stroke lenght. like 24"
Max pressure, like 3000psi

The valve.....
Max flow rating, like 25gpm
max pressure, like 3500psi

I have an Excel spreadsheat I use to calculate this.....I dont know if you are familiar with Excel, but you are free to use my spread sheet...


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## tanker (Oct 25, 2008)

AKKAMAAN said:


> HI Josh!
> 
> No I didnt say that.
> 
> ...



Off the top of my head,I would guess that 35gpm pump would need roughly 45-50 h.p. to run it.I have ran a single stage vikers vane pump with 11h.p. for roughly 20 years and get along great with it with decent speed but will probably inthe nearfuture go with a 16gpm barnes 2 stage..With the motro and pump combo that i have,I get along good splitting with it but when others use it,we seem to go through lovejoys very quickly.I also am set up as horizonal only and have split 40-48" in wood with very little trouble and even easier now that i put a loader on my tractor 2 years ago.I designed it to be tailgate height or a little less and the tounge is long enough so that a 26" peice will split and not get my tailgate.I prfer to split where i cut and leave all the mess there,bring it home and stack off the truck then it is done nice and neat.My wedge is on the beam.I have used both and my own preference is to have the push plate on the ram.My bil just bought a new swisher 26 ton splitter and we gave it a workout last weekend on some 46" white oak in the vertical position and after 2 days of this we both decided that we had never worked so hard to split wood.Had to turn the rounds 3-4 times to get them apart.finaly ended up using both splitters together,his to chunk the rounds apart and mine to split up the chunks.If I was to build another,I'd still go horizonal only.I still find it easier to move even the large rounds on the round side versus the flat side.


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## AKKAMAAN (Oct 25, 2008)

blackdoggy said:


> What cubic inch single stage pump is ideal for a splitter with a 4 inch cylinder?



Depends on what engine power and rpm's you have availbale.......
What system pressure you decide to use.....
What valve you choose, flow rating......
If I say 0.61 cui per rev, you will ask why so little pump??.....and I say it's because I choose a high system pressure and high rpm.s on a 10hp engine...
and a pressure sensitive regenerative valve for automatic 2 speed, I also choose a 2" rod diam and a 18 inch stroke on the cylinder, that will make my day here in "easy split" douglas fir country..........18.8 true tons and 2.4 inch/sec low speed...and 4.7 true tons and 9.7 inch/sec high speed.....90% OF THE SPLIT CYCLE WILL GO ON HIGH SPEED, 10% ON LOW SPEED HIGH FORCE TO MAKE THE INITIAL SPLIT CRACK....opcorn:


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## drmiller100 (Oct 26, 2008)

my splitter has following:

4 inch ram, 2 inch shaft
30 gpm pump
4 way wedge, all knife edged, set up to be staggered contact points
ears 6 inches higher then base I beam
3 way detent valve with doug's bungy custom autocycle
fixed knife, movable pusher.
conveyor
engine, pump, and tank are in separate powerpack placed 20 feet away.

7 second full cycle time.

to do it all over again, i would consider a pair of 3 inch rams set up so both rams crack, one ram runs it in and out. and, i would weld the ears 5 inches up off hte base I beam.


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## savageactor7 (Oct 26, 2008)

One thing I like about my 25yo American splitter is that it's only 10-12 in off the ground and the lever is above the most forward part of the ram. Very comfortable to use.

90% of the time I'm sitting on a log while splitting. Cause the rail is low is very easy to make a ramp for the bigger round I occasionally can't lift.

It's cool to that I can curl my toes under the rail for reach around leverage...I love my splitter.


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## abohac (Oct 26, 2008)

*Log Lift, auto cycle*

I bought a Timberwolf because of its size and the log lift but what really makes wood is the fact that you can pull both levers and the cylinder cycles without you being there (you are gettting another piece of wood). Pull the levers, it completes the stroke and returns the cylinder.


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## Gooserider (Oct 31, 2008)

Well my preference is decidedly for H/V type splitters, and I could probably skip the H part. I've used a friends horizontal Supersplit, and far prefer using his H/V hydraulic MTD machine in vertical mode. This is working side by side in the same basic working setup - rounds piled on the ground, putting splits on a conveyor to load into his truck.... (I can also just about keep up with the Supersplit on an all day session, but that's another story)

So my first key feature is that it must go vertical, and the easier to do so the better. 

One of the features I like about the HF splitters as opposed to most of the competition is that they store in a fraction of the space most splitters need. Most units have a seperate trailer tongue, the HF design puts the hitch on the end of the beam, and uses the beam for the tongue (I think the old Brave splitters did the same thing, maybe a few others) Thus if I put the beam vertical, and take off the front support leg, my storage footprint goes down to not much more than the width and length of the tires.... This is a brilliant improvement IMHO. However, I don't really plan to tow the unit, so I don't need a trailer hitch as much as I would the hookup to move it around w/ our lawn tractor.

Valve height and position - I like the valve on the left of the cylinder, just above the base of it, with the handle sticking straight back. This puts the handle at about 30" off the ground, which is out of the way but easy to reach up and work it when sitting in front of the machine.

The Engine should be where it is easily possible to reach the throttle and other controls from the operating position, but far enough back that it is reasonably unlikely to be bashed by a misplaced round. Ideally I'd love to have a setup that would make it responsive to the hydraulic valve - give the engine gas when I pull down, in order to have the grunt if I go into low speed mode, but slow down when idling or retracting. Must have good muffler, and exhaust that points away from operator.

The foot pad should be at least 12" x 12" in working area (plus whatever it takes to attach to the beam) and have a useful pattern of projections on it to prevent non-square rounds from sliding out from under the wedge. The wedge should have it's cutting edge parallel with the foot plate, or if it is angled, having a point at it's outside face corner (again to discourage slideouts) The beam should be substantial, and on it's face marked w/ the distance to the foot pad in about 2" intervals from 14-24"
(useful for judging split length)

Gooserider


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## Butch(OH) (Oct 31, 2008)

Another good source for parts and pieces is the surplus center. 
http://www.surpluscenter.com/

Design features I wouldnt want to be without

Beam at comfortable working height
Log lift
Prince auto cycle valve
What ever it is powered with is either quiet or far enough away it isnt a huge bother.
The exhaust needs to be pointed away from the operator (why is this simple thing screwed up in 1/2 the splitters bought or built?)

You all have seen mine I wount bore you with pics again.


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## Zodiac45 (Oct 31, 2008)

Four Paws said:


> Good reading...thanks! I have a 35gpm single stage pump but I think that would be too much - LOL! SO, the sun valve is the way to go instead of using a two-stage pump? The single stage pump is cheaper than the 2-stage, so that will help offset the sun valve.



I don't think so Four Paws. You defo want too go with a 2 stage pump. Allot more umph for the tough stuff when it shifts down.


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## skid row (Oct 31, 2008)

Use an H beam 8X8 and 1/2" thick. That is the main part that will take a pounding for years. Go very heavy duty, so ya only have to do it once. 

Cylinder 5 inch diameter with a 22gpm 2 stage pump.

At least a 12 hp engine.

Log lift.

15 gallon capacity hydraulic oil tank.

Beam height depending on how tall you are. I am 6'2" the top of my beam is 32". No bending over.

Wide axle, great for towing and it wont flip if ya have a loglift lifting a BIG round.

Alot of great points from the other posters on this thread. My best advice to someone building a splitter would be to overbuild it extra heavy duty starting with the H beam.


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## brisawyer (Oct 31, 2008)

Where can I find a price on the prince lsr 3060 valve. I have looked all over the net but probably not in the right place.


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## BlueRidgeMark (Oct 31, 2008)

skid row said:


> My best advice to someone building a splitter would be to overbuild it extra heavy duty starting with the H beam.



Yep. If ever there were a place to indulge our love of overpowered tools, THIS is it!


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## LAH (Oct 31, 2008)

abohac said:


> I bought a Timberwolf because of its size and the log lift but what really makes wood is the fact that you can pull both levers and the cylinder cycles without you being there (you are gettting another piece of wood). Pull the levers, it completes the stroke and returns the cylinder.



*YES AUTOCYCLE YES*


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## Gooserider (Nov 1, 2008)

I actually have mixed feelings about autocycle, and even the auto-return detent, and am not sure how much time they really save...

The splitters I use (mine and my friends) like most units have around a 24" stroke... I target 18" and no more than 20" wood, my friend likes 16-18" wood. While we both get enough long peices to make the 25" capacity useful, most of the rounds are way less than that (and I suspect that's the case for most of us) A lot of the wood that I split pops in the first inch or less of contact with the wedge, and what doesn't will usually come apart before I've run the wedge all the way out...

Net result is my "working cycle" is really only about 3" or so of travel - down just enough to pop the round, up just enough to clear the next round.

When I'm working on my splitter, the auto return detent works well, and takes the wedge up all the way while I'm getting rid of the splits I just made, and getting the next victim into position (or turning the current log to split it the other way) 

I then have to pull the lever and WAIT for the ram to come back down...

W/ my friends splitter, for some reason the return detent doesn't work most of the time, so I have to hold the lever to go up, as well as down. This makes if very easy to "short stroke" and bring the piston up and down just enough to do the job - since my up stroke is only a couple of inches, it goes really fast... 

I haven't timed it, but I suspect that the time I save by getting my hand free sooner with the detent is less than the time I lose from waiting for the wedge to travel the extra 6" distance from the top of the cylinder down to the top of the next round... (Especially considering that if it's a small round I can often start getting set up for the next round with my free hand...)

I know some folks deal with this by using cylinder travel limiters, but as I've said, I get enough long rounds to not want something that would keep me from being able to deal with them as I go along.

Gooserider


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## cityevader (Nov 1, 2008)

That's what I use my wife for...working the control valve. She'll watch for the next round I grab and by the time it's on the beam, The wedge is close to being right on.....although she does need a little more practice.

Having both hands available to maneuver the wood drastcally increases production. 

If only I could afford a few more dollars for a few different parts.


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## Butch(OH) (Nov 1, 2008)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> Yep. If ever there were a place to indulge our love of overpowered tools, THIS is it!



Yup, when building carefully calculate how heavy a part needs to be and then double the size.

The gibbs on my splittter, made from 2x2 sqaure stock on the Bridgeport after I tore them off twice before, they dont flex now, LOL. 5.5" cylinder packs some poop.

<IMG SRC=http://i31.tinypic.com/2drwi6d.jpg>


The wedge. Design 3 or 4 and I am still not completely satisfied. We burn a lot of Elm, stringy stuff and you have to split it all the way, no place for narrow short wedges. The 4 way lowers out of the way for splitting small stuff in half or big ones that tax the 4 way. Powered up and down hyraulicaly with 10" of travel

<IMG SRC=http://i30.tinypic.com/2rpcjv5.jpg>


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## Butch(OH) (Nov 1, 2008)

Some kind of platform to keep the split wood from falling on the ground is nice. This pic shows the rear end of ours, the platform and log lift. The top of the beam hits me about belt high. The splitter was built from some new and some scrap. Some of the parts would have been a tad differant had a stockpile of new steel been available. With a decent helper and our loading elevator it is no trick to load a pick up as high as the cab in a half hour. Yes we have some extravagances in our firewood operation, I am old and a tired butt, LOL Pic also shows another hady splitter tool, Estwing camp axe.

<IMG SRC=http://i29.tinypic.com/29d7nyx.jpg>


The $25 farm auction loading elevator (plus Honda) and another handy wood splitter gadget, an old pick up. It sure saves beating up the nice one. We dont have much in the ole Dodge.

<IMG SRC=http://i26.tinypic.com/15eicf8.jpg>


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