# Falling with Dutchman



## clearance (Feb 4, 2006)

Who here uses a Dutchman on purpose to fall with? Explain it and say what you do i.e. tree service, faller etc. Talk about the pros and cons, lets hear it,


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## geofore (Feb 4, 2006)

*dutchman*

There are some who use it to walk a tree off the stump in a direction it is not leaning/likely to fall. That said there are warning signs of when not to use it. If the tree is hollow it will not twist/step in the right direction before it releases, it has no solid stump to ride/walk on. Small diameter trees do not work well, not enough meat to work with. A tree with widowmakers is likely to drop a limb on your head if it is asked to make an abrupt change in direction during it's fall. You are much more likely to pinch the saw in as the tree can move or you want it to lean out during the cut. If you cannot read a tree or can't calculate the distance/direction the top of the tree will move due to the closing of the kerf on your saw cuts at the bottom, stay away from the duchman cut. If you are not good/well practiced at using the duchman cut always have a saw, wedges and hammer handy. The saw to plunge cut into the kerf that has closed in order to set the wedges in to tip the tree over in the right direction should you miscut the dutchman and the tree stops moving. The dutchman is all about angles, subtle angles, cut into the tree or stump, used to walk the tree off the stump in the intended direction. For those that don't carry them, you should have hammer and wedges with you when falling trees irregaurdless of the cut you use.
It should be pointed out this is considered a dangerous practice. It is not for the faint of heart or inexperienced thrill seeker. It takes practice and is not a recommended cut for everyday use. In most places they tell you you'll be fired for using it.


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## Stumper (Feb 4, 2006)

Dutchmen are useful for altering fall direction rather than simply letting the lean take the tree where it most wants to go. Steering with a conventional notch and hinge generally suffices but there are occassions when you need more radical steering, a twist in the falling path to guide around an overhead obstacle while clearing another lower obstacle, etc. A step dutchmen is often useful for making a mild alteration in a not quite perfectly aimed face that you don't want to deepen/recut. All dutchmen types can be useful techniques but they need a good understanding of the procedure, physics involved and the properties of the wood being felled.
Yes Clarence, some arborists understand and use Dutchmen(though most have never heard of the term). I agree with Spydy that the common stepcut used in jumping branches is a utilization of Dutchman principles and it is commonly used by guys who have never even considered altering fall direction with kerfs, 'steps', or 'swings' using multiple face cuts.


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## Lumberjack (Feb 4, 2006)

I used onetoday to help swing a uprooted tree's spar.

I had removed the top of the tree that was against the lines. The tree was over concrete, likely the foundation from a shed or other building. I used a large open face with a dutchmen to swing the spar without using a rope, worked like a charm, got a good 60 degrees of swing, no damage to the concrete, all is well.


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## jp hallman (Feb 5, 2006)

TheTreeSpyder said:


> To me Dutching is an early close in face. This is very warned about, even outlawed some places. Most Dutchmans are not intentional; but rather accidental crossing of the FaceCuts; most notably the horizontal cut. The early close can try to stop the tree and make it slide back wards off the stump, go sideways or BarberChair etc. Deadly time to be in the batter's box with a large beast doing all that!
> 
> To me, the leveraged weight and direction of the tree is power. Face Open/ Faced Closed giving binary commands as to use that leverad tree power for push force or pull force. Walking a backcut down to first folding empowers the hinge/face mechanics. From here the power is taken and used either to push or pull. An open/ tensioned side of face giving most pull force from the leveraged weight power of tree; a closed/ compressed face using the same power for push force. A tree is the largest, heaviest and stiffest form of life; these are the 3 main multipliers for leveraging; so we play with the forces of leveraged power in a beast; like no other!
> 
> ...



What tha'...what are you saying? I'm sorry. I can't begin to comprehend what they hell you're talking about here.


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## jp hallman (Feb 5, 2006)

Dutchman is pretty simple. Leave a "chunk" of wood in the face-cut that will cause the tree to go where you'd like it to fall.


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## John Ellison (Feb 5, 2006)

I use a swing dutchman regularly. The short pine here is very easy and forgiving to swing. For me it is usefull to get around another tree that is in the line of fall and can also save a lot of wedgeing time and work.
I would not swing a tree over a house. Over a barbwire fence, yes all day long if I had a need. I would not swing a tree over a house. Did I just say that? 

You can tell from looking at stumps that most all production cutters use some form of a swing cut at least some of the time. Some will not admit it for good reasons. 
For myself, a swing dutchman is pretty much just like in Dent"s book with approx. the lower third of the hinge area severed before the back cut ever starts. I have seen pics on here where the hinge wood was intact all the way across the stump on a "swing dutchman". I am always learning new things but I dont see how that could swing very much.
The thing about these cuts and why they are a bad idea in a lot of situations is because of the things that can go wrong. One of the worst is if you have misread the leans of the tree. If you are cutting and not watching your saw is pinched and the tree is falling right towards your head. 
There are different degrees of it. If I cant afford to let it get away from me and fall to the head lean I would never use it.
Sorry Spyder but I cant understand your posts either. So many flourishey words that I get part way into it and just give up. But I am a little slow to comprehend a lot of things.


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## Stumper (Feb 5, 2006)

jp, It is just Spydeyspeak-everyone gets headaches from it but if you muddle through you WILL think. Regarding your second post-What you are describing is a step Dutchman-most common (intentional) and easily used Dutchman. There are others that are more complex-and more dramatic in effect.--ANd as Spydey was alluding to-they all (including he simple step) work by closing a portion of the face(or kerf) early in the fall causing the tree's energy/momentum to work to create a reaction to the sudden obstruction.


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## smokechase II (Feb 5, 2006)

*zen and then some*

I'm glad to see that the Zen of Falling Master has broken two more.
If you really want to befuddle yourselves, go to his web site. There is some intelligent stuff there, but it can take awhile to sort it out. It is worse than reading a Forest Service redacted report.
You can always fight fire with fire. Come up with your own terminology and jump back and forth with philosophical thoughts.
For instance:
_"To me, the leveraged weight and direction of the tree is power. Face Open/ Faced Closed giving binary commands as to use that leveraged tree power for push force or pull force. Walking a back-cut down to first folding empowers the hinge/face mechanics. From here the power is taken and used either to push or pull. An open/ tensioned side of face giving most pull force from the leveraged weight power of tree; a closed/ compressed face using the same power for push force. A tree is the largest, heaviest and stiffest form of life; these are the 3 main multipliers for leveraging; so we play with the forces of leveraged power in a beast; like no other"_ could become.
*Where the tree leans is important.*


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## jp hallman (Feb 5, 2006)

Stumper said:


> jp, It is just Spydeyspeak-everyone gets headaches from it but if you muddle through you WILL think. Regarding your second post-What you are describing is a step Dutchman-most common (intentional) and easily used Dutchman. There are others that are more complex-and more dramatic in effect.--ANd as Spydey was alluding to-they all (including he simple step) work by closing a portion of the face(or kerf) early in the fall causing the tree's energy/momentum to work to create a reaction to the sudden obstruction.


I understand what a Dutchman is. I've cut em' in before(I fell trees for a living)...I just thought I'd lost it wading through spydey's post. Had to keep checking back to see if I was still on the correct site.<snicker>


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## Gologit (Feb 5, 2006)

jp hallman said:


> I understand what a Dutchman is. I've cut em' in before(I fell trees for a living)...I just thought I'd lost it wading through spydey's post. Had to keep checking back to see if I was still on the correct site.<snicker>



I think I'll go get myself checked for Attention Deficit Disorder...I couldn't make it all the way through spydey's post without becoming really confused. I think he said some good things but I'm not sure and now my head hurts


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## Gologit (Feb 5, 2006)

clearance said:


> Who here uses a Dutchman on purpose to fall with? Explain it and say what you do i.e. tree service, faller etc. Talk about the pros and cons, lets hear it,



Dent's book will explain a dutchman better than just about anyone I've heard of. Sometimes they're kinda fun to play around with but keep a good escape path .


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## Tree Sling'r (Feb 6, 2006)

I use a dutchmen for falling all the time - mostly the big stuff. Doug Fir works best - it has the strongest holding wood to hold on the up hill side while your low wood is sawed off to accomidate the dutchmen. I use them when there are two different directions that the tree could go. I use my dutchmen to accomidate the down hill lean while my under cut faces the direction of the lay. They are quite simple and in my book no dangerous than any other method of felling. They save jacking - wedging and most importantly wood. But like everything else there is a time and a place for this method.


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## BlueRidgeMark (Feb 7, 2006)

> jp, It is just Spydeyspeak-everyone gets headaches from it but if you muddle through you WILL think.






> If you really want to befuddle yourselves, go to his web site.



 I get the impression that Spydeyspeak is the result of an intelligent and broadly educated person attempting to communicate in something other than his native language. Worse yet, the 2nd language he's trying to use is English - a very difficult language to learn, from all I've heard.

Is that correct?

In any case, the Flash illustrations and other diagrams are very educational.


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## Ekka (Aug 12, 2006)

I have never heard of a dutchman _(in the wood world not geographic for the smarties)_ till I got on these sites with you yanks.

I would like to see pics and especially video of the different types and what ya'll going on about.

We might have some other name or whatever, but I'm not sure if you are over cutting your notch, step cutting, leaving bits in the gob or what??

So please, some-one really good with this could you please get some pics or video ... maybe even diagrams.

Thankyou


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## TackleTree (Aug 12, 2006)

I think that due to the vast amount of terminology meaning the same thing, a thread or forum with definitions of all the terminology might help get everyone on the same page. Just an idea.


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## TheTreeSpyder (Aug 12, 2006)

A Dutch(man) is a cut face; that causes an early close in face. This is achieved by placing a rock or block in the face to cause early closing, cutting the face to be more open on one side than the other, kerfing in on face/ crossing facecuts. 

The most often used Dutchman is accidentally and dangerously by crossing FaceCuts. This small kerf opening makes what Dent calls a "Face, within a Face"; whereby the almost immediately closing/ accidentally made 'inner face' / dutchman becomes the ruling mechanics; no matter how wide your intended face was the dutchman closes early. In the BarberChair Warning i tried to show as others before have; how this accidental crossing of FaceCuts can lead to a deadly BarberChair. But, also too; how i theorize that is more likely to happen when the horizontal cut crosses the slanted one. For, when the slanted crosses the horizontal cut; the early close force is leveraged across the fibers; just like the flexxing of a hinge. Whereby when the Horizontal cut bypasses the Slanted cut in Face; the closing force pushes directly up(/inline with) the column of fibers/ the direction in which they don't flex; but give raw push back instead. Likewise if trying to use the Kerf Dutch force, the push would come more from a horizontal than slanted kerf.

In the building example of an obstruction in the distance of path, rather than in the face/close to pivot on path; i said the buildings would be off to the side. For even if the tall building incurred early in travel was straight ahead; it too would get crushed or seize tree travel. Just like if Dutchman is full across it can cause a seize in travel; that can become a BarberChair. But, if building or Dutchman is incurred early and is off to side, it can steer tree; by not confronting tree fully; but rather confronting tree on 1 side and offering the other side as relief/ path of least resistance to the loaded force of tree moving forward(unleashed when BackCut reduced holding leverage enough to make tree a moving force).



When we make FaceCut(s); we are putting off the closing force until later; Only using the closing force of the power; at finish to tear off the hinge. Generally this closing force is too late to affect steering direction; for the tree is already committed. Dutching does opposite, makes the closing earlier instead of delayed earlier. While it still can force the tearing off/away of hinge; the spar is still at a softer angle/ not as committed and this early closing can effect steering. The differance is the same as any other obstruction in path. If building is encountered on one side late/ 8' off of ground when tree is all the way bent over and speeding; building can get crushed. But if building is encountered in falling path early, while tree is hardly bent forward, not moving as fast, not as leveraged and 60' tree brushes 50' building as tree just starts to move forward; tree can be more easily pushed to the side by the building. The 1st scenario is like a regular open face, the 2nd would be like using a Dutchman to steer; only a Dutchman in felling is something blocking path close to hinge pivot/ in face.


That is what these were supposed to be:

Dutch Push in Face

Dutch Push Archives

When the tree's BackCut 'activates' the tree/empowers motion; we have loaded force available to use. That means either push or pull force. The tree force is a primary force of such and such a (finite) value. The subsequent motion + controls at hinge restricting/ redirecting motion are jsut responding force values matching the potential falling force. The Tapered hinge to opposite side of lean and to rear; accentuates the use of the Pull force strategic use of the available power. A Dutchman on 1 side operates similarly, just uses opposite strategy. It takes available force and controls on the same side as lean , forward of hinge (where tapered is opposite side, rear) to give the same force expressed as push (where tapered is pull). So working together tapered hinge and side dutchman can cover all available bases; using force for both push and pull at once to steer.

The more the lean forward and sidelean offer force loading, the more these strategies are empowered. So, the 'worse' it is; the better they (try) work. Thus, this stategy works well for me on horizontal limbs to be moved horizontally; because they are in most leveraged position, and you want to ride the most leveraged path. Though note, that for the Tapered Hinge to work, it needs elastic fiber that can stretch to give it's pull force through. And likewise, the Dutchman strategy side needs solid(but not necessarily elastic fiber/can be dead if till solid) faces; to give most resistance to close/ hardest push back. Thus, if something is drier or dead(but not decayed/ rotted); i might add or depend more on push of Dutch, as opposed to pull of Tapered.


i don't try to befuddle anyone really. What is said to be felt as jumping around; i try to offer as the connecting threads of all this; a view of this all as balancing opposites to maximum use. Whether that be push/ pull, tapered/ dutchman, male/ female, +/-, equal / opposite, antanane/ ground, yin/ yang etc.; just from different disciplines to cross lessons over from;some of which might be more familiar.


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## Jim1NZ (Aug 14, 2006)

Although hard to comprehend, its great spider! You go to such an effort to teach others thanks.

I would much rather learn reading your posts any day than some BS about guys spiking trees


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## Ekka (Aug 14, 2006)

HEy Jim, do they use that term in Kiwiland ... you know, Dutchman?


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## Jim1NZ (Aug 14, 2006)

I have never heard of it before. Its very interesting though, would really like to see some video!!!

The closest thing i have seen is what they call a jump cut, similar to the dutch cut but the kurf is cut alway through the scarf. More like a overcut scarf but on purpose


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## TheTreeSpyder (Aug 14, 2006)

Yeah, probably like hearing y'all say scarf!

Yes, but jump cut would be overcut all the way across. A side dutchman just on lean side; like a tapered is just on opposite of lean side; both to grant some control over sidelean or some obstacle on side of path trying to push tree off course. Note a side push from brushing a tree on left; would be fought/ negotiated with opposite strategy as a side lean to left; for just as tapered vs. dutch; pull and push are oppositely applied values/ equal - opposites.

If no side lean, then the rear stretching/ pulling of fibers are even on either side (L or R); and likewise the compression on front of hinge and compression /push on close is even across the face. Because the powersource/ tree force is balanced side to side/ no side lean. In a sidelean, with a standard 'strip' hinge evenly across; the pulls and pushes in the hinge and face are not even. A left side lean stretches the right rear fibers the most; just as at close the left front face hits harder than the right one. If the power source/ tree force has a right lean, then left is stretched more, and right smacks harder on the face at close.

A tapered hinge on right to control a left lean; accentuates this by giving more tension pull earlier and stronger. A side dutch on left to left lean, will give the harder hitting left side an earlier close, to give more push through a longer part of the travel on hinge. It will also, cause an earlier rip on the left side of hinge, forcing a kind of tapered hinge across i think.

Also, to get more technical, the push from dutchman on one side is only in 'phase1' of it's travel i think. At this time more force is on the hinge, so i call it the pivot, and the push at dutch close a helpful push. But, once the force of the closed compression is the greatest force, then fairly i think it is the pivot, thus giving the opposite side of hinge (perhaps tapered) more leverage by distance and angle both! 

A change in pivot is most powerful, for it alters the leveraged angle and length between the load and control both at the same time. Here, the angle of the Center of Gravity of the spar to pivot is reduced if it runs to this close, instead of further back to the hinge, as like the distance to this new pivot is less too. While, as shown earlier, the distance and angle to the tapered hinge is increased. This gives the load / tree side less leverage; while giving more to the support/ tensioned hold side at the same time.

A tapered hinge alone, gives more distance from pivot to stretched fiber, and a more inline/ better angle of support, then more fiber in these positions. A side dutch alone can give a helpful push in phase1. But in phase2/ as close becomes more loaded and takes over as pivot the adjustment is not singular, but a compound one. Like on a see-saw; you only have so much available length to leverage. Moving the center pivot some to one side; gives more leverage to one side; like you extended that side. But, it also takes leverage away from the opposite side, like it was cut shorter. So, in 1 move; instead of these 2 separate ones, a pivotal change is a compounding change; giving more power to lift less etc.


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## beowulf343 (Aug 14, 2006)

clearance said:


> Who here uses a Dutchman on purpose to fall with? Explain it and say what you do i.e. tree service, faller etc. Talk about the pros and cons, lets hear it,


I don't use the dutchman. Once had a guy try to show me how its done and he ended up dropping the tree right on a fence. I just laughed and told him thanks but i'll stick with a regular notch and backcut. And if i'm worried about which way the tree will go, i'll just climb it and put a rope in it. (Of course most of the stuff I drop are just stems and are rarely over 20 feet tall. On taller stuff maybe it has a use, I don't know.)


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## woodchux (Aug 14, 2006)

On rare occasion when my notch looks like its off a little, I'll stick a piece of wood in the notch to compensate. Usually though i'll just tapper the hinge or re-cut the notch.


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## Jim1NZ (Aug 14, 2006)

I get it! Thanks spider.

Need to find a suitable tree to try it on now. Il be extra careful of a barber chair and make sure i select a suitable species too!


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## arboralliance (Aug 15, 2006)

*Giving this thread a go...*

Ekka, I've been in and out of the Aussie logging forest since a young tacker and known it as the "Flying Dutchman" it is like picking up the log and swinging it away from you much like I guess you would do with a dutch man you perhaps are in an altercation with...

I describe this (as being extremely dangerous) to students, apprentices and employees as "relieving the hinge" (invariably one of the main reasons of mistake in felling) which for me means cutting the hinge as desired (facing out to the direction of lean and or desired fell) till you begin to get momentum then cutting the hinge through 2/3 - 3/4 (or cutting towards the direction you want the tree to go/spin) so the second face is made in the direction of the larger portion of the hinge pie and therefore forcing the hinge to act as a screwing gate or turnbuckle or such and at times I have been able to make very large trees pivot almost 180 degrees on this remaining section of hinge (also been able to make trees "rock" side to side as they go down weaving through other trees even under pre-tensioned winch load)...

The reason i have used this is mostly to avoid obstacles in the forest (urban or otherwise) or to get momentum so the log launches from the stump jumping obstacles near the stump/tree and to "use" an undesirable lean to force the tree in an arc away from the direction of lean when no other means can be used to correct the lean (very large trees where wedging will break the hinge)...

(It is absolutely critical to have a very large escape route area cleared rather than the legal requirement of at least two at no more than 45 degree oposite to fall line...)

I would however reiterate I served a very long and rigorous apprenticeship in the field and have been handling chainsaws and climbing and cutting (including body parts and yes sometimes my own) for over twenty five years and I would not recommend this technique to anyone...

I avoid using this technique at all costs...

One of my former students sms'ed me yesterday on his way to the hospital in an ambulance after self rescuing from the tree, another former student is still recovering (and will never fully recover) a near fatal fall from a tree from a few months ago, I take this very, very personally along with my fellow instructors...

*Please, ALWAYS wear your helmets around trees and chin strapped climbing helmets in trees, chaps and all other PPE and ALWAYS USE CHAINSAWS WITH TWO HANDS APPLYING THE CHAIN BREAK IMMEDIATELY AFTER CUTTING...*


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## TheTreeSpyder (Aug 15, 2006)

*Non-Generic commands to 'split faces'*

180 turn is mighty dang good, an extremity i back off from! Takes a lot of slamming forward fast and hard into the step of the dutchman confidentially, to get that kind of output force to turn whole tree that far. This is where a kerf dutch won't help, but rather a narrow face on lean side or a block in face. Because we need more 'run' hard into the dutch/ step, than the quick close of a kerf doesn't allow that much buildup of force/ speed.

This is responding force, so the more force input, the more force output. So slamming forward hard/fast, harder leans forward or to side etc. give more force input, to get more force output. You can get these things to allow tree to move forward/down about 10 degrees and then veer off to side. Just split the openness of each side of the face to give each side a different stop/ limiter. Also, the harder the closing side wood is, the more response. Usually both sides of hinge pull at once against each other, then push at once against each other. IN step dutchman at close of 1st side, we remove the pull into lean and push into lean (an upgrade); but also we push and pull away from lean in concert(another upgrade).

Much of this 98% of the time you keep in mind, so that you don't invoke these forces accidentally (by crossing face cuts, having decay on 1 side of narrow face and not other etc.); for they now can be seen as mechanical commands loaded with all the tree's force at once! i've used most climbing, then you must rely on kerf dutch, or making narrow face in one side; because a rock or block might not be easily available and at all the angles (and movements of limb) a rock or block might fall out of the face. To make narrow face in one side, make narrow face full across, then enlarge face on goto or opposite of lean side. To leave a 'split face'(in my terms) that gives different mechanical commands to each side of the face. Rather than both generically the same command (open or close, to invoke pull or push respectively from the available tree force); a 'spit face' gives different commands to either side of face, operating them seperately. This takes force that if across full face could shear spar into barberchair, and makes it into useful force. This could be barberchair force converted into split face/ non-generic control is idea of this whole page of animations

If you can get a top to fall forward (and gain speed) then turn to right(as all that speed and weight slam close); you can 'squiggle' out of some situations, when that is the only path around another limb etc. Or if obstacle is forward and on one side, can guesstimate narrow part of hinge face, so that it closes and pushes off to the side, orchestrated in concert/ at the same time as obstachle is pushing soft part of head (might let head compress in some first, for more push out when face closes on that side) off to the same side etc. 

A contradiction in use, would be if using motion of limb(especially horizontal) on hinge to help further pretighten line before tearoff (like in "Rock Around the Clock Strategy ); the close of the dutch gives support/ push up, thereby doesn't load and pretretch the line as much. For, they both only have the finite tree force as input, and if dutch is supporting it, then that much of force is off line. So, guesstimate a wider face on dutch side to allow more prestretch of line, to get it pulling to side hard, in concert with the push off of dutch closing on opposite side. Noting, that working the pulls in rope fiber, is same lessons as working pulls in hinge fiber; both are to pull away from lean, inline is most powerful angle/ but angled gives direction change etc.


This is/ can be dangerous stuff; outlawed some places etc. Enter at your own risk(and those you bring with you):angry2: 

Mostly, keep in mind to make perfectly meeting faces, to not invoke these things/ mechanical commands accidentally. If dabbling/trying; i'd recommend staying in your league on the ground; but also remember it takes some weight/speed/lean to make it work; to show yourself what is possible. Then, use carefully in tree where stuff is smaller, and more likely to be horizontal and fall away from you; rather than having stuff close on either side while whole tree is changing direction etc. while possibly looming more overhead!

Must take a solid/solid face wood to work, so in dry/dead (but not rotted) can make up for some loss of elasticty on the pull/anti-lean/ tapered hinge side.


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## xtremetrees (Aug 15, 2006)

*Climber killer*

I didnt understand the deadly "barber chair" until I saw your video spydy.
Now I watch my undercut and ensure my upper cut meets exactly and not haveing any ?"bypass"? Most helpful to me spydy


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## Jim1NZ (Aug 16, 2006)

So spidy, on the leaning side where you cut the kurf in the scarf, how far as a general rule would you make the kurf cut into the scarf?

So do do you end up with no hinge wood at all on the side of the kurf cut?


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## TheTreeSpyder (Aug 17, 2006)

Multidimensional answer, of a few considerations...

Kerf closes are early close; so wouldn't use if needed late close; would use rock / block in face or make narrow face and open up non-lean/ control side farther.

Kerf close will come quicker, the deeper kerf goes in. But at same time, a 1" deep kerf sill close earlier in .325, than in 3/8" etc.; will close earliest in handsaw/ pole saw kerf; ie. earlier in narrower and or deeper kerfs. At close would want CG committed. A harder wood will give more corrective response, more leveraged weight will input more force to get responding push out of etc.

An earlier close gives earlier push, for duration over more of hinging time. But earlier close doesn't allow as much speed of falling to build to slap face harder and throw away from sidelean harder. Earlier close may cause too early a tear off of hinge etc. Have to build experience to evaluate each individual case.



This all works as a response to tree forces and their directions. More leveraged force in, more out. So, a tree could be too light, or not enough side lean to give healthy slap/ push at close to work etc. If side or forward lean isn't enough, might not get firm close; then especially i keep some hinge behind close on that side; but if lots of side or forward lean, will close and make firm pivot on own.



Many lessons l-earned climbing and cutting branches while waiting for ground crew to catch up. Place sling higher than you can reach on vertical 2-4" branch. Make face with chain or hand saw, pull forward at different angles as making backcut at different angles to feel differences. grab sling as a higher leverage of pull to test first, cut some, then use lower hand pull of less leverage to still experience. Kerf one side of face to close early; pull stragiht on while back cutting, pull to side into kerf etc. If force is loaded and ready to breathe/ move in hinge/face; system is empowered; responses will be binary; either push or pulls from the force given.

i all ways picture shape of tree and stump as just illusion/ shadowy framework that is just for 3 points of determinant power to exist in. A) The load as Center of Gravity of tree,B) the hold as tensioned holding fiber to opposite side in hinge; B) and the compressed part of hinge as pivot (inheriting both pulls of load and tensioned fiber like a pulley between 2 pulls). Total leverage of A will = Total Leverage of B; or else the difference/ imbalance will be made up in motion (and some friction etc.). Only these 3 points exist to direct the framework of tree; all that matters is the 3 powerpoints and the leveraged distance and angle between them. Unless shape breaks or bends, it will just ride where these 3 points tell it to. Tapered hinge places more pulling fiber at tensioned support location, extends that location farther from pivot of compressed part of hinge, and also gives better angle of control to this area too. Dutch close on lean side, can increase distance and angle from support/tension fiber/ tapered hinge and also, reduce the leveraged distance and angle from load/ CG. Only CG is constant; we can adjust pivot and support.



Orrrrrrrrrrr something like that...:bang:


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## geofore (Aug 19, 2006)

*saving a burl*

At some time you may want to save a burl and need to fall a lightning struck tree with a burl, uphill away from the lean, to get the burl. What cut are you going to use to walk the tree off the stump, up the hill away from the lean?


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## Jim1NZ (Aug 20, 2006)

Choice thanks, got it


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## geofore (Aug 20, 2006)

*burls/duchman*

Burls are worth saving for the wood turners, they love to make things like bowls out of them. The pictures show the burl and the cuts to the stump to move the tree. The tree had been hit on more than one occasion, lost a large limb some years before and was not safe to climb. The last picture shows some of the effects of a lightning strike on a tree. The limb may look good from the top side but the split left by the strike leaves it unsafe to stand on. The trees are usually full of such limbs. The burl was a beauty and well worth giving the Dolmar 7900 a workout. The duchman had to be done upside down to walk the tree off in the right direction. Many thanks to Dan Henry for moddifying the 7900 for me. He builds a nice saw.


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## Canyon Angler (Oct 6, 2006)

Can someone clue me in on the title of this "Dent book" referred to in some of the posts above? This is interesting stuff, I'd like to read more.

Thanks,

Jeff


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## ShoerFast (Oct 6, 2006)

Canyon Angler said:


> Can someone clue me in on the title of this "Dent book" referred to in some of the posts above? This is interesting stuff, I'd like to read more.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jeff


Just click here

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/92?mv_session_id=MjUa95pI&product_sku=17309


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## Canyon Angler (Oct 6, 2006)

Thanks Shoerfast.


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