# Really really really want a tractor



## husky455rancher (Jan 12, 2022)

Well I’ve pretty much decided I’m getting a tractor. I got numbers on a little guy Ls mt125, jd 1025r (holy mother it was expensive) and a bigger kioti 2610 and kioti 3510.

the jd is off the table. I can get so much more for my money in other brands. I’m about ready to get one of the kiotis. They can lift 1850 pounds to max height in the loaded. The only difference between the two is the engine. Ones 25 hp and ones 35. The 35 has a dpf but it dosent seem to be a real issue from what I’ve read. The 3510 is $2300 dollars more than the 2610. There is also a 930 dollar difference between the manual and hydro transmissions.
Not sure if the extra power really matters all that much it’s not like I’m plowing a field haha. I’m just gonna use it to do my tree length firewood and log moving and clean up my yard and do some landscaping.

anyone have any Experience with any of these machines?


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## holeycow (Jan 12, 2022)

Get the bigger one.

I have no experience with those particular models, but have had a large Kioti for about 2500 hours worth and it's a good machine. Very good in fact.

there's lots of good brands. I know nothing about them, but I've always been intrigued by the Bransons. They look very good in pictures, lol.

don't be misled by those who claim that a hydro is "more precise" and "faster". I guess those guys find a clutch challenging. I couldn't stand the constant whine of most hydros. Some are loud and clearly offensive to me at least.

the small JD's are not even built by JD. Green paint is expensive.

don't overlook Kubota, although they are pretty proud of themselves too, for reasons unknown to me.

anyway, good luck! It will change your life. Remember, it is a little farm tractor, not a piece of heavy equipment. You can break a farm tractor if you treat it like a dozer. Check all the bolts, especially the wheels and loader. They will likely loosen, or already be loose. The dealer puts on the wheels and loader. Sometimes they are not the sharpest tools in the shed...


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## kspakland (Jan 12, 2022)

Just don't get a Hoyt-Clagwell.
Parts are impossible to get, and the wheels keep falling off.
(Yes, I watch too much Green Acres, my favorite show from when I was a kid).


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## chipper1 (Jan 12, 2022)

holeycow said:


> don't be misled by those who claim that a hydro is "more precise" and "faster". I guess those guys find a clutch challenging. I couldn't stand the constant whine of most hydros. Some are loud and clearly offensive to me at least.


While I agree with much of your post, I have to disagree about the hydro trans. I drove truck for 20 yrs and hauled heavy for many of them. Most the trucks I drove were 13-18 speed, while I am not challenged at all driving a stick on a tractor; I'd rather not for a machine that is to do work in small areas, if you are out tilling large plots of land there may be some advantage.


husky455rancher said:


> There is also a 930 dollar difference between the manual and hydro transmissions.


It's worth it, you will thank yourself if you get it, if you are using it in tighter places.
@farmer steve any thoughts on hydro vs manual.


holeycow said:


> don't overlook Kubota, although they are pretty proud of themselves too, for reasons unknown to me.


All my kubotas have been great machines. I like most Japanese products, and so do others who have owned them, I think that's why they are able to command a premium price.


holeycow said:


> anyway, good luck! It will change your life. Remember, it is a little farm tractor, not a piece of heavy equipment. You can break a farm tractor if you treat it like a dozer. Check all the bolts, especially the wheels and loader. They will likely loosen, or already be loose. The dealer puts on the wheels and loader. Sometimes they are not the sharpest tools in the shed...


Great advice here. I like to say my tractors have more guts than butt, they just aren't a large piece of equipment such as a skid steer and they don't have the power or lifting capacity.
As far as the bolts on the wheels and loader, all mine loosened up on my kubota L3800, all was good until it wasn't and I cracked a wheel .


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## husky455rancher (Jan 12, 2022)

I normally enjoy shifting. I almost always use a standard in my cars. I was thinking one thing if I get a hydro and decide to sell it ever I assume that would help resale. As would the 35hp over the 25. We’ll I would think anyway….


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## chipper1 (Jan 12, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> I normally enjoy shifting. I almost always use a standard in my cars. I was thinking one thing if I get a hydro and decide to sell it ever I assume that would help resale. As would the 35hp over the 25. We’ll I would think anyway….


I'd agree as someone who does a lot of buying and selling.


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## holeycow (Jan 13, 2022)

Most Tractors don't shift like cars (although my Deutz did) and you don't drive them the same way. Shifting a car can be fun. Shifting a tractor is work.
my point about hydro is mostly about the "more precise" comments made by many. That is simply rubbish, as long as your tractor brakes work, that is. Also, some hydros are very loud to me. I can't live with that.


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## farmer steve (Jan 13, 2022)

I have the hydro on my 55 HP new holland. I don't know if it is loud or not as I never had one before. I would have preferred a gear tractor bit when the boss said go get a new tractor I couldn't git fast enough.  It has held up pretty good with over 3K hours on it now. @husky455rancher. I think the Kioti is a decent tractor for your needs doing firewood. Go for the bigger HP if you can. Make sure it has the universal quik attach on the loader. The favorite tool on mine is the rock bucket for doing firewood. Good luck.


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## Karrl (Jan 13, 2022)

I’d suggest getting the hydro if you can afford it. The constant forward/reverse is much easier with a hydro. If I’m out plowing or need torque for an application I’d rather have gears and a clutch, but for what you’re looking to do it’s not necessary. Another plus to hydro is hooking a brush mower to it. Much easier to back in and around trees, fences, and other hazards.

All that said I grew up running a JD 2955 8 speed with a loader bucket and I’m pretty quick with the clutch and sticks on that one. Although it’s a well rehearsed dance if you know what I mean. So you definitely can get by without the hydro.

And Holeycow is spot on about getting the bigger tractor to start out. My cousin bought I think the 35 hp Kioti and ended up trading in for a bigger one after a few years. The higher hp heavier tractor will handle heavy loads safer and more stable than the smaller one. Also whatever you choose makes sure you have the tires filled with ballast or at least have enough weight on each end. Makes a huge difference in soft ground and when you’re driving with a load on it. Good Luck with whatever you choose.


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## GeeVee (Jan 13, 2022)

Tractor by net is a good message board. I prefer a geared trans. None of the big companies make their own SCUT or CUT's- JD, Kubota, MF, NH, Case, etc, they all are white labeled machines built in Japan, Taiwan etc. Thes foreign companies owend the market on small, as thats thier requirements they dont have large expanses, they are small farms, on limited spaces and usually can be crowded into elevation changes and other constraints like rock and water bodies. and in general smaller parcel of land ownership, not to mention crop variety or rotations. The business practices over there were also different. Manufacturing was always more like cooperatives and consortiums. 

Mitsubishi, Iseki, Isuzu, Yanmar, Shibaru are just a few that are the real names behind the paint the brand loyalists would shun, but don't realize those big labels don't make them themsleves, these compaies do. 

Sounds like you are buying retail, new? If you must. but there are all kinds of used ones for not much money, that work just fine. These things are not hard to work on or maintain. Nor is getting parts realy that hard. 

So, in the used market, there is the gray market thing. noit an issue in the slightest. really. The gray market Yanmar 2810 is the exact same as the US labeled-imported 281, exactly. Except for the stickers..... The gray market machines come of the farms over there and get sent back to the Co-op in Thailand or Vietnam, and they go through them- rebuild them quite well , and repaint. Sure there are US dealers for Yanmar who wont sell you a glass fuel bowl when yoy tell them its for the 2810, but the next hop or event he same one a day later will sell you the bowl for the 281. For what its worth, the "industry" in the US was not selling you a gray market part out of spite. WHen they have a floor plan of new ones they can;t sell, because an independant person took the risk of bringing containers of refurbed Grays in with no "service" they could provide, its cutting into their ability to move their (overpriced) floor plan. That has settled out now some, since the internet has made it global, though you dont have to get a part from Asia- there are so many grays here now, that independent tractor shops and salvage yards have that part for a gray 2810, though really, you just have to do some searching for the 281 part number to begin with.
My Mitsubishi is a US import I traced back to Valley Power in Roanoake Virginia, and he still is a Mits dealer to this day. My 15 hp 2 cyl diessel has been trouble free. I've replaced a starter I tore up not using the correct procedure, I wet down the hydro fluid leaving it in the rain, but its pulls a 4' bushog and does a bush hogs job. I have no FEL, but my machine does have the ability to carry one. (I have an ASV RC-30 rubber tracked skid). 4wd, brakes for each rearr, dif lock. 1300 bucks. IF i ever have to do a clutch, Im not concerned about having to do it myself, and its an $80 clutch, with fluids, it might cost $200. 

For a one trick pony like just firewooding, or bushogging your extra parcel of land three times a year, I can't see buying new. If you get a FEL, thats nice if you dont have anything else, and you can use it to load a trailer you can pull on the 3pth. or drag logs..... Buying new doesn;t guarnatee against maintenance or repairs, and if you bought one of each, and treated them the same, my 1300 dollar purchase would save me tens of thousands after a couple thousand hours?

At least give Valley Power a look at the Mitsusbishi compact or subs, and see what they have. If you got a Sub, and its smaller lighter lift means you cut a log to 5 ' instead of ten feet, whats the harm? Its not a race. Its about not picking it up by HAND. Though, I can get my 15 hp through my woods where my buddy can't get his 35 hp. WHich means he has no tractor.


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## lone wolf (Jan 13, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> Well I’ve pretty much decided I’m getting a tractor. I got numbers on a little guy Ls mt125, jd 1025r (holy mother it was expensive) and a bigger kioti 2610 and kioti 3510.
> 
> the jd is off the table. I can get so much more for my money in other brands. I’m about ready to get one of the kiotis. They can lift 1850 pounds to max height in the loaded. The only difference between the two is the engine. Ones 25 hp and ones 35. The 35 has a dpf but it dosent seem to be a real issue from what I’ve read. The 3510 is $2300 dollars more than the 2610. There is also a 930 dollar difference between the manual and hydro transmissions.
> Not sure if the extra power really matters all that much it’s not like I’m plowing a field haha. I’m just gonna use it to do my tree length firewood and log moving and clean up my yard and do some landscaping.
> ...


I would be Leary of the DPF stuff.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 13, 2022)

holeycow said:


> Get the bigger one.
> 
> I have no experience with those particular models, but have had a large Kioti for about 2500 hours worth and it's a good machine. Very good in fact.
> 
> ...


In the videos I’ve watched


lone wolf said:


> I would be Leary of the DPF stuff.


yeah I kinda am I’m really on the fence about it.


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## AGrig06 (Jan 13, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> Well I’ve pretty much decided I’m getting a tractor. I got numbers on a little guy Ls mt125, jd 1025r (holy mother it was expensive) and a bigger kioti 2610 and kioti 3510.
> 
> the jd is off the table. I can get so much more for my money in other brands. I’m about ready to get one of the kiotis. They can lift 1850 pounds to max height in the loaded. The only difference between the two is the engine. Ones 25 hp and ones 35. The 35 has a dpf but it dosent seem to be a real issue from what I’ve read. The 3510 is $2300 dollars more than the 2610. There is also a 930 dollar difference between the manual and hydro transmissions.
> Not sure if the extra power really matters all that much it’s not like I’m plowing a field haha. I’m just gonna use it to do my tree length firewood and log moving and clean up my yard and do some landscaping.
> ...


Get a John Deere 2755 with a fork, works great for moving bales, I'm sure you could throw a bucket on and go to work! Holy cow it can climb any hill, up/down, or drive on it sideways! The 2755 also goes pretty fast on the road, like 40 I'd say.


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## lone wolf (Jan 13, 2022)

AGrig06 said:


> Get a John Deere 2755 with a fork, works great for moving bales, I'm sure you could throw a bucket on and go to work! Holy cow it can climb any hill, up/down, or drive on it sideways! The 2755 also goes pretty fast on the road, like 40 I'd say.


40? Thats fast as hell aint it?


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## rancher2 (Jan 13, 2022)

I will start by saying it pretty green at my farm. We farm with mostly older equipment and I can always get parts for JD. That said I had a smaller AGCO Hydro tractor that was my spot spraying, fence fixing, UTV and every thing in between tractor. I had around four thousand hours on it and never had any major issues. It was time to up grade and get one with a loader for smaller jobs. I have a 100 HP skid steer and a old Cat track loader for the bigger loader work . I looked at all of them including JD. For me it came down to Kioti and Kubota. I have had several Kubota diesel engines over the years and zero issues with them. The Kubota was more money but the fit and finish was better. I ended up buying a Kubota MX-6000 HYDRO. I did spend a day in the pickup to go get it but it save me a lot of money. I was buying cash but if your not Kubota has some cheap money. I have ran it threw one season about three hundred hours and have had zero issues. The DPF regens about every fifty hours. Its the first diesel I have owned with DPF.


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## poppiecarver15 (Jan 13, 2022)

just my thoughts, i have a jd 1025r and it is ok .mostly use it for firewood and wish it was bigger and could life more,some say you just cut smaller lengths but that means more trips and more fuel and at the cost today is a big deal. i like the hrdro. in the woods and with the mower but do not do a lot of mowing with it. when i do it again going to go bigger and have a grapple on the front. you will be glad for the extra power


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## holeycow (Jan 13, 2022)

Try to have a look at Branson (kukje). Their similar size tractors lift more at both ends and they weigh more. 99% of the time, weight is your friend. Also their engine is higher displacement with less computer ****. more gears too. Hydro available. Idk, some have said the tier 4 crap can be removed on them too. That crap can be a nightmare. There are possibilities of many various problems with the different systems for compliance...

the small tractor world is a nightmare of who makes what for who (which changes over the years).

oh, and has already been mentioned. Get the rears filled with fluid. Don't even consider not doing that. Just don't.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 13, 2022)

holeycow said:


> Try to have a look at Branson (kukje). Their similar size tractors lift more at both ends and they weigh more. 99% of the time, weight is your friend. Also their engine is higher displacement with less computer ****. more gears too. Hydro available. Idk, some have said the tier 4 crap can be removed on them too. That crap can be a nightmare. There are possibilities of many various problems with the different systems for compliance...
> 
> the small tractor world is a nightmare of who makes what for who (which changes over the years).
> 
> oh, and has already been mentioned. Get the rears filled with fluid. Don't even consider not doing that. Just don't.


Yes whatever I get I will fill the tires. I haven’t looked at Branson. I’ll check them out today and see if I can get some prices.


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## HighRidgePines (Jan 13, 2022)

LS XR4145 - 4wd and 45 hp was perfect for me.


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## Ryan'smilling (Jan 13, 2022)

I have two hydrostatic tractors, a 29 hp new Holland and a 47hp kubota. I grew up on geared tractors and can handle them fine, but the only way I'd give up these hydrostatic tractors is if I had a skid steer for loader work and a utility tractor with a hydraulic shuttle. Yes, some guys are really great operators with geared machines, but after 100 hours on my kubota, I can damn near skin a cat with the loader or grapple. It just becomes second nature. And yeah, for resale hydro is what 90% of buyers want. Resale is actually also a good reason to look at kubota. The l2501, l3901, and mx4800 would be worth a look.


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## Huskybill (Jan 13, 2022)

My $400/‘55 Willy’s 4x4 cj5 with locking diffs I have for 25+ years now. I fabricated the front bumper, boxed the frame, it’s 75 hp.


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## farmer steve (Jan 13, 2022)

Ryan'smilling said:


> I have two hydrostatic tractors, a 29 hp new Holland and a 47hp kubota. I grew up on geared tractors and can handle them fine, but the only way I'd give up these hydrostatic tractors is if I had a skid steer for loader work and a utility tractor with a hydraulic shuttle. Yes, some guys are really great operators with geared machines, but after 100 hours on my kubota, I can damn near skin a cat with the loader or grapple. It just becomes second nature. And yeah, for resale hydro is what 90% of buyers want. Resale is actually also a good reason to look at kubota. The l2501, l3901, and mx4800 would be worth a look.


I bought my New Holland mainly for cleaning out the barn. Straight in,back out. The hydro was a knee/leg saver vs having gears and a clutch. I almost hate using my old IH with gears and all I use that for is planting corn and spraying. Really sucks when you get to the end of the field and reach for the hydro lever and it ain't there.


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## rwoods (Jan 13, 2022)

FWIW, current John Deere compact tractors are designed and assembled in Augusta, Georgia. And they have been for years, except some models were designed by Deere and made by Yanmar in Japan. I don't think any Yanmar tractors are currently offered. Parts are sourced internationally. Some models have Deere engines and some Yanmar. The last two Yamar models (3005 & 4105) are basic and don't have the hydraulic flow or lift capacity of their USA assembled counterparts. Initially there were other Yanmar Deere models: 850 through 1350 IIRC. The three compact Deeres that I have owned had Yanmar engines (bulletproof) and one tractor was Yanmar built. 

Ron


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## ElevatorGuy (Jan 13, 2022)

I have a 1025r and love it. Only other brand I shopped was kubota as that was the only other one somewhat close by. The Deere was more expensive but I like it a whole lot more than the bx. Absolutely get the hydro! If you have good dealer support for whatever brand, go for it.

My uncle just bought a new 1025R yesterday from the same dealer I use. They’ve gone up several thousands of dollars in the 3 years since I bought mine.


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## CatMan Fetters (Jan 13, 2022)

Yanmar hydro, 24hp, just Diesel Fuel, Does everything I need it to do!


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## ericm979 (Jan 13, 2022)

If I was going to be plowing or mowing flat open ground I'd consider geared. My land is steep and mostly wooded. Manuverability is important and the HST shines there. I'm on my second HST tractor and would not consider geared for my land and uses.

Except for a few models DPFs are pretty reliable. You have to work the machine and not let it idle for long periods. My current machine has a DPF. The last one didn't and boy is there a big difference in the air around it. I hate diesel exhaust and the old machine would have me gagging. The new one with DPF is hardly objectionable at all.

You may end up doing more with it than you planned. When I bought the current Brandon 3725 I didn't have plans to get the grapple and forestry winch. Both are super useful for moving brush and trees.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 13, 2022)

You guys have convinced me on the hydro. Now I gotta decide on the motor if I decide to go with one of those kiotis.


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## Wills (Jan 13, 2022)

Mahindra probably gives you more for you money than even Kioti, but when you need parts, particularly major parts that fail in-warranty, you many be looking at many months for your dealer to get them. I know at least 2 people that this has happened to, and one of them depended on his Kioti every day, in his business. He absolutely needs the tractor, and they did nothing but say the parts were on order. The thrill of the low price soon wears off when the tractor is waiting on parts.​
He went down the highway to the Kubota dealer, and bought one. When the Kioti was eventually repaired, he gave it to his grandson to play around with on his farm.

I've had 2 JD tractors that have done a ton of work for me, and I can't complain. My present one is a 32 hp hydrostatic. Also just diesel fuel; no DFT. If I were to change anything, I'd go next size up, as I can only lift 1420 lb with my forks. Occasionally it would be nice to pick up more.


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## Sportfury70 (Jan 13, 2022)

I have a bobcat ct1021, it’s made by kioti. Kioti is a fantastic tractor, you won’t go wrong with it. Bobcat always has a dealer nearby, and the price was right (loader was free with financing). Mine skids big logs no problem. Tires are filled.

yes the hydro is noisy, but jeez it’s a tractor. It’s also really easy to drive. Not knocking gears or anything, worked a big new Holland pulling stumps just fine. But for tooling around trees you’ll have an easier time maneuvering with the hydro.

Sounds to me like a CT2025 or CX2510 (same tractor, one is white the other red) would work for you just fine, and probably cheaper than the next size down orange blue or green tractor.


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## Sawdust Man (Jan 13, 2022)

We really like our Kubota L2501 hydro, with the grapple it's the slickest thing for moving logs around.
On Monday I moved a fresh cut pine log 20 inches in diameter x 20 foot long, couldn't lift the whole thing off the ground but just grabbed it in the middle and lifted/pushed it 300 yards up to the road, then picked up one end and backed the trailer under and slid it right up.


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## benz66 (Jan 13, 2022)

As was stated before, any "brand" you see in the US is probably made by someone else. JD is a yanmar. That said, I had a yanmar JD 5500N. (75HP) It pulled a sprayer that took ~45 HP for the fan and another 5-10 HP for the 30 GPM pump. It took half as much fuel as the MF 275 or the JD 2020 gas or the JD 1530. The 1530 was about 40 hp and didn't really have enough guts to pull the sprayer. My dad bout it new in 1974 to replace the 25hp ford 8N. It was way more tractor than the ford ever wanted to be. The 5500 was like a dream. It way outpulled the MF 275 with roughly equal HP.

IMHO, buying a new tractor, unless it is working hard every day, like in a feedlot, is a waste of money. You can buy a nice IH H that is 75 years old, for around $1000 or 1500 and it will pull trailer loads of wood anywhere. If you want a loader, then yes, a newer tractor with live hydraulics is what you want. A IH super H or 300 or 350 qualifies. With a tricycle tractor you have to be careful on hillsides. Best to go straight up or down with any tractor. You can buy a lot of tractor with loader for under $5000. And if you need shiny new paint, repaint it. Most dealers will repaint in the winter for a reasonable price. 

My other point is that even a ford 8N or better yet Jubilee (NAA) for 25-35 hp is built for tractor work. Buy a real tractor used, for logging and timber work. I ran over some brush with the JD5500 that I thought nothing of. The brush bent up the hydraulic filter that hangs down on the side and put me out of business for a few days until I got a new filter and fluid. 

I used the 1530 with a posthole digger on the 3 point to skid logs. It pulled 20' long 36" red oak up and over the frozen ground. It also pulled a 55' long 18" white oak that was straight as an arrow up a steep hill and out, but it was touch and go. By tying the chain to the top of the posthole digger, and running the 3 point up or down I could vary the weight on the rear axle and pull way more than hooking to the drawbar. The posthole digger frame also acts as wheelie bars so the tractor can't flip over backwards. Another good pulling tractor is a case 310, because it can't climb the ring gear. It squats and pulls. They are hard to find.

a 25 HP asian tractor is good for gardening or mowing your estate. they won't handle the timber brush well. If you are clearing fencerows for firewood, then the little asian tractor would be ok running over tilled or mowed land. Depends on what you needs are.

As for me, I hauled almost all my firewood behind and IH H on a trailer. Never any problem. Parts are readily available, if you need them. Newish 23º lug tires will make a world of difference in what you can pull and what you can go through.

As alway, just my opinion, FWIW, and YMMV


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## benz66 (Jan 13, 2022)

One other thought, if you want to skid logs with a tractor make sure the diff lock is easy to engage. One good thing about the Dubuque (2020) and Mannheim (1530) JD tractors is the diff lock is easy to use. Just kick it with your right heel. A necessity for pulling big logs. 2440, 2640, 2030, etc all have the same diff lock system. The diff lock is better then trying to control wheel spin by using the right brake.

Look for retirement/estate sales for good tractors. We got a nice IH 1086 at a retirement sale.


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## esshup (Jan 13, 2022)

I've put 1900 hours on a JD 4720 tractor in the past few years, just brush hogging, moving brush, logs and tops of trees. Since you've already decided on a hydro unit, I won't say anything other than agree with you. Some things that are essential are 4wd or front assist (when you have the heavy weight up front you HAVE TO have the 4wd engaged to steer or move - it takes a huge weight off of the rear tires) and get the hydraulics for the FEL so you can get a grapple bucket. Once you've used one you won't hardly ever take it off. An enclosed cab is mandatory for me, after seeing how dusty the tractor gets brush hogging, it's mandatory. That means A/C. With a cab it also doesn't matter if it's snowing, raining or the mosquitoes are thick enough to pick you up out of the tractor seat. 
Even with the filled tires, think of getting a counterweight for the 3-point. Also, having a quick attach system for the 3-point and for the FEL sure makes life easier.


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## Smitty Smithsonite (Jan 14, 2022)

Tractors are stupid expensive these days, even worn-out, decades-old yellow ones. Although I could've used a PTO, I needed a backhoe more than the PTO, so I snagged a '67 I/H 3414 diesel a couple years back. When I asked how many hours she had, the owner laughed! Now I see why, lol. She's got no brakes, and will scare the crap out of you as it did me the very first day on it, as I almost sent it 40' straight down to my death! Thankfully my cat-like reflexes dropped the bucket and saved my ass, lol. I've got to get on those brakes one of these days. Now I stay the hell away from ANY hills.

The more pressing issue was the GALLONS of fluid I was leaving in trails all over the lawn and my street. Managed to fix those one by one. Got a new oil pan on, and replaced 4 hydraulic hoses that blew so far, and found 3 fittings that weren't tight enough. Boy does that stuff SPRAY when you've got a 3k lb. backhoe in the air!  

Frightening drive home with a 1/2 ton pickup and this ridiculously tail-heavy load! Should've loaded it backwards ... and bought a Cummins back in '07 instead of this little GM product that can't stop breaking. Thankfully I didn't have to go very far.


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## JRM (Jan 14, 2022)

Regarding the comments that Kubota and JD are proud of their tractors, a quick look around you can easily find a decades old rig with either's badge on the hood quietly doing work. They have both been around a long time, have extensive dealer support throughout the country, and parts for a tractor bought 50 years ago are still easily sourced. Both brands have been around for over 125 years, its probably safe to say a tractor bought today will have parts available in another 50 years.
I'm not knocking the other brands but alot of them have come and gone over the years making any kind of dealer support or future parts acquisitions uncertain. 

Have you considered buying used? New paint costs, regardless of brand. Tractors are generally boat anchor reliable so long as you buy one thats not been run into the ground. Just a thought.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 14, 2022)

JRM said:


> Regarding the comments that Kubota and JD are proud of their tractors, a quick look around you can easily find a decades old rig with either's badge on the hood quietly doing work. They have both been around a long time, have extensive dealer support throughout the country, and parts for a tractor bought 50 years ago are still easily sourced. Both brands have been around for over 125 years, its probably safe to say a tractor bought today will have parts available in another 50 years.
> I'm not knocking the other brands but alot of them have come and gone over the years making any kind of dealer support or future parts acquisitions uncertain.
> 
> Have you considered buying used? New paint costs, regardless of brand. Tractors are generally boat anchor reliable so long as you buy one thats not been run into the ground. Just a thought.


Ive been looking around for quite a while at used ones. Like someone said the used prices are way up as well. I do still look and will until I actually pull the trigger on one.


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## NSMaple1 (Jan 14, 2022)

What dealers do you have close by? Good ones? Dealer support is a big one. We've got Kubotas here. No issues. Just one bad sensor episode on our M6, they came and got it and brought a loaner for us to use the 3 days it was gone. I don't think they're any dearer than others brands. Especially JD. Factor in resale also, although that's a guessing game.


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## Sc0 (Jan 14, 2022)

Not sure who actually makes it but Bobcat has tractors now, no DEF fluid required on some the few models that I was looking at.


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## ElevatorGuy (Jan 14, 2022)

I wouldn’t buy a used one now unless it was older and much cheaper. I could sell mine right now for more than what I paid for it 3 years and 207 hours ago. Used isn’t attractive when new doesn’t cost much more and in jd’s case anyway zero percent financing.


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## Hermio (Jan 14, 2022)

kjorrrits said:


> I’d suggest getting the hydro if you can afford it. The constant forward/reverse is much easier with a hydro. If I’m out plowing or need torque for an application I’d rather have gears and a clutch, but for what you’re looking to do it’s not necessary. Another plus to hydro is hooking a brush mower to it. Much easier to back in and around trees, fences, and other hazards.
> 
> All that said I grew up running a JD 2955 8 speed with a loader bucket and I’m pretty quick with the clutch and sticks on that one. Although it’s a well rehearsed dance if you know what I mean. So you definitely can get by without the hydro.
> 
> And Holeycow is spot on about getting the bigger tractor to start out. My cousin bought I think the 35 hp Kioti and ended up trading in for a bigger one after a few years. The higher hp heavier tractor will handle heavy loads safer and more stable than the smaller one. Also whatever you choose makes sure you have the tires filled with ballast or at least have enough weight on each end. Makes a huge difference in soft ground and when you’re driving with a load on it. Good Luck with whatever you choose.


Indeed. Hydros are safer to use in the woods also. They will come to a stop just by letting up on them. If you need to find a clutch in a hurry, you may have a rollover or be impaled by a branch.


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## Highland_hunter (Jan 14, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> Ive been looking around for quite a while at used ones. Like someone said the used prices are way up as well. I do still look and will until I actually pull the trigger on one.


Not sure where you are in CT, but Goff's in Litchfield carry's the MF line. GC series tractors are nice or you can step up to the 1800 series. They were pretty straight forward and upfront when I talked to them. I'm up in NH so if I wanted to avoid the sales tax I had to have them meet me over a state line and transfer that way or some such foolishness.


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## CJ1 (Jan 14, 2022)

kioti makes bobcat tractors. For the ones complaining about HST wine the smaller Kubotas seem to be the biggest issue. My kioti and the new MX60 I just got for my friend are very quiet. My power steering system on my DK50 makes more noise than the Hydrostat. There is a reason that most of the newer dozers and tractors are going to hydrostat. CONTROL you can't beat a hydrostat for this and also it breaks less driveline parts. I ran a smaller 15000lb dozer that was a clutch and gear set up, what a Joke. It was a Komatsu and I wouldn't give you a nickel for it. My 1985 D3 would work circles around it and did it without stalling. The only thing a clutched tractor does as good or better than a hydrostat is pull a plow. And that is marginal. Clutched tractors and equipment are going away just like cars and trucks. CJ


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## holeycow (Jan 14, 2022)

"Pull a plow" , meaning almost any field work whatsoever.


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## Baldrick (Jan 14, 2022)

kspakland said:


> Just don't get a Hoyt-Clagwell.
> Parts are impossible to get, and the wheels keep falling off.
> (Yes, I watch too much Green Acres, my favorite show from when I was a kid).


Haha. Green Acres is one of the sickest and funniest show ever! Hogan's Heroes is tops too and I get to watch them back to back every night!!!


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## husky455rancher (Jan 14, 2022)

NSMaple1 said:


> What dealers do you have close by? Good ones? Dealer support is a big one. We've got Kubotas here. No issues. Just one bad sensor episode on our M6, they came and got it and brought a loaner for us to use the 3 days it was gone. I don't think they're any dearer than others brands. Especially JD. Factor in resale also, although that's a guessing game.



theres a Ls dealer a few miles from me. The kioti dealer is a little over an hour. Mahindra guy didn’t even call me back. Kubota isn’t too far either I can’t think of the town off the top of my head.


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## holeycow (Jan 14, 2022)

In case you didn't know; LS is a "component" tractor. They make some, but not much of their machine in-house. I believe they are more of an assembler than a manufacturer. Kioti and Kubota manufacture most of the components of their machines themselves, especially the major components. This means, to a certain extent LS changes suppliers like socks. That being said, LS made lots of the "Boomer" tractors for Case/NewHolland in a similar fashion that Yanmar has for Deere. Some of the Boomers are not Korean, however. They are Japanese (Mitsubishi?).

LS's other claim to fame in metallurgy is cutlery.

Kioti used to make drivetrain components for Kubota (gears, shafts, etc). This was partly during the time that Kubota was establishing their "bulletproof" reputation.

I imagine you are well down the rabbit hole now...

personally, I would avoid Mahindra. Just my take, others' observations may be different.

the smaller brands are kind of like Echo compared to Stihl and Husqvarna. Not quite in the same league. But definitely serviceable and probably just as durable.

but, as has been mentioned, parts supply and service (like getting a replacement tractor if yours breaks) is generally better through the majors. I would question all of your prospective sellers regarding "what happens if mine breaks under warranty, will you supply a loaner? Who pays for trucking to and fro, if required?, etc, etc. Get it in writing on the bill-of-sale.

get shop and parts manuals with whatever you get..


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## ericm979 (Jan 14, 2022)

Sc0 said:


> Not sure who actually makes it but Bobcat has tractors now, no DEF fluid required on some the few models that I was looking at.



Tier 4 emissions requirements have breaks at certain HP levels. In practice what that means is that engines under 75hp don't use DEF and engines under 25.5hp don't use a DPF or DOC and have mechanical injection. Bransons over 25.5hp also use mechanical injection but have a DPF. Everyone else over 25.5hp uses common rail except the Kubota B3350 and you don't want one of those.

Even five years ago used compact tractors in my area were expensive. You'd see units that were clearly beat on with near new asking prices. Clean low hour units were rare and asking essentially the same a new except with no warranty. I expect it's worse now. It may be different in other locations so it's worth checking the local market. There's a lot of ag not far from me but they use big tractors, not compacts. I ended up with a new Branson. The Kubota L01 series did not impress me much and I had to beg their dealers to even give me a price. Most other local dealers would hardly talk to me if I wasn't buying a $200k ag tractor. I ended up buying from a dealer 3 hours drive away. They ship parts to me. All I have needed is filters. Routine maintenance is not difficult if you're already used to working on vehicles.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 14, 2022)

Thanks for the reply’s guys I appreciate it. I’ve been reading up on it and watching videos on different tractors. I wanna see what the price on the bobcat equivalent of the kioti 2610 is. I don’t think they have a 3510 copy. I believe they jump to the 40hp one.


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## thenne1713 (Jan 14, 2022)

Wills said:


> Mahindra probably gives you more for you money than even Kioti, but when you need parts, particularly major parts that fail in-warranty, you many be looking at many months for your dealer to get them. I know at least 2 people that this has happened to, and one of them depended on his Kioti every day, in his business. He absolutely needs the tractor, and they did nothing but say the parts were on order. The thrill of the low price soon wears off when the tractor is waiting on parts.​
> He went down the highway to the Kubota dealer, and bought one. When the Kioti was eventually repaired, he gave it to his grandson to play around with on his farm.
> 
> I've had 2 JD tractors that have done a ton of work for me, and I can't complain. My present one is a 32 hp hydrostatic. Also just diesel fuel; no DFT. If I were to change anything, I'd go next size up, as I can only lift 1420 lb with my forks. Occasionally it would be nice to pick up more.


I keep seeing locally $1400 for smaller tractors w/ front end loader and backhoe on FB Market popups? Anything beats nothing, and always good to have small, you can add larger later?


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## CDElliott (Jan 14, 2022)

holeycow said:


> In case you didn't know; LS is a "component" tractor. They make some, but not much of their machine in-house. I believe they are more of an assembler than a manufacturer. Kioti and Kubota manufacture most of the components of their machines themselves, especially the major components. This means, to a certain extent LS changes suppliers like socks. That being said, LS made lots of the "Boomer" tractors for Case/NewHolland in a similar fashion that Yanmar has for Deere. Some of the Boomers are not Korean, however. They are Japanese (Mitsubishi?).
> 
> LS's other claim to fame in metallurgy is cutlery.
> 
> ...


My brother-in-law bought a Mahindra here in Guthrie, OK a few years ago. A couple of years later, the dealership closed up and left. Seems there was a problem getting warranty work done. There is a Kabuta dealer across the highway, and they are still here. I bet there are some regrets somewhere down the line. ;<)


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## toppers (Jan 15, 2022)

I was in the same boat as you and it was down to Mahindra vs LS. At the last minute I found a Yanmar dealer an hour away (the furthest of the 3) but was much more impressed with the build quality and features of Yanmar vs. the rest. They make the engines most tractors use, why not get the whole tractor made by them. Made in Japan, assembled here (like Kubota). Picked up the subcompact and am really impressed, the thing is a little tank. Stay under 25 HP and avoid all the emissions stuff if you can.


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## Hermio (Jan 15, 2022)

benz66 said:


> As was stated before, any "brand" you see in the US is probably made by someone else. JD is a yanmar. That said, I had a yanmar JD 5500N. (75HP) It pulled a sprayer that took ~45 HP for the fan and another 5-10 HP for the 30 GPM pump. It took half as much fuel as the MF 275 or the JD 2020 gas or the JD 1530. The 1530 was about 40 hp and didn't really have enough guts to pull the sprayer. My dad bout it new in 1974 to replace the 25hp ford 8N. It was way more tractor than the ford ever wanted to be. The 5500 was like a dream. It way outpulled the MF 275 with roughly equal HP.
> 
> IMHO, buying a new tractor, unless it is working hard every day, like in a feedlot, is a waste of money. You can buy a nice IH H that is 75 years old, for around $1000 or 1500 and it will pull trailer loads of wood anywhere. If you want a loader, then yes, a newer tractor with live hydraulics is what you want. A IH super H or 300 or 350 qualifies. With a tricycle tractor you have to be careful on hillsides. Best to go straight up or down with any tractor. You can buy a lot of tractor with loader for under $5000. And if you need shiny new paint, repaint it. Most dealers will repaint in the winter for a reasonable price.
> 
> ...


Brush concerns are why I had my Mahindra dealer fabricate an underbelly brush guard attached to the loader frame. The filters and hydro lines are quite vulnerable under the tractor. That having been said, my 5035HST can pull a lot. I have dragged a 20" diameter, 60 foot long Hickory log up a 15 degree slope, BTW, maybe we are realted. My family name is Benz.


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## rwoods (Jan 15, 2022)

thenne1713 said:


> I keep seeing locally $1400 for smaller tractors w/ front end loader and backhoe on FB Market popups? Anything beats nothing, and always good to have small, you can add larger later?


Many of those deals are scams. Photos of someone else’s tractor.
Here that wouldn’t buy you a good lawn tractor.

Deere and Kubota used compact tractors with a FEL prices exceed those of many larger farm tractors with a FEL.

Ron


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## CUCV (Jan 15, 2022)

I have spend significant money buying new trucks, tractors, and equipment just before emissions regulations have impacted these items. I just didn't want to be the Guinee pig. I feel enough time has past and the DEF systems have been proven so that won't significantly impact future purchases where I have options of DEF or no DEF. 
I have a history of buying equipment this is "underpowered" in others opinion. I assess my needs, how I will run the equipment, and the HP required to do the tasks.
I feel the 25HP compact loader is underpowered for pushing and loading materials like gravel efficiently. I'd recommend trying both machines moving gravel to see if the machine operates as you would expect doing this operation. This may not be your main use but translates to other activities.

IMO hydro is the way to go for material handling operations.

Be sure to get or make a large weight box in addition to loading the tires. That is a substantial lifting capacity for that size tractor and width.


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## JRM (Jan 15, 2022)

Frame size is a much bigger factor than hp, IMO. A 30hp B series is no comparison to a 30hp L series. I am referring to the older models - no idea on the nomenclature of the new ones. I personally don't see the value in spending $30k on a compact tractor when one can be had for 1/3 of that and provide years of service, but to each their own.


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## simonmeridew (Jan 15, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> You guys have convinced me on the hydro. Now I gotta decide on the motor if I decide to go with one of those kiotis.


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## simonmeridew (Jan 15, 2022)

I as many have said the choice between hydro and clutch can make a difference in your comfort level if you're doing a lot of loader work with a bucket then you probably want Hydro for the back and forth hard on the left foot that kind of thing with the gears but if you're doing any kind of long dragging of logs or plowing or Mowing and such you're going to want the clutch with the gears.
My advice to you is do some driving around see people that have tractors of the size you want in their backyard or side yard and if you want, talk to them what they see what they do with their tractor, take a look at them see how they start Etc don't look at a lawn mower size if you want 40 horsepower rig so don't even look at the small ones you want one with some weight if you're going to be pulling logs the more weight you have the harder they pull. Ask him how they start how they start in the winter don't know how cold it is where you are but right now it's the middle of the day and it's 10 below Northern Vermont so you're going to want something that starts at that temperature my Kubota has never failed never plugged it in. Use winter weight diesel in the winter and summer weight in the summer otherwise you're going to have a "freeze up" if it's cold like it is here. How can it freeze up? well it isn't really Frozen like water freezes it forms a wax and the wax is so thick that the diesel can't seep through it and it just plain stops and until it warms up or you put in some diesel treatment.
If you have a boat you always want two footitis: you're always looking for a boat that's 2 ft longer. Same thing with a tractor if you don't buy one that's big enough you're always going to be looking at something that's a little bit bigger and then you'll think I can afford that so buy it right once and be done with it.


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## CJ1 (Jan 15, 2022)

Not any field work, just where you are using 100% of the tractors power. And now with the bigger tractors like my buddies 500+ hp John deere it has a power match system that keeps the tractor at peak rpm for fuel efficiency. Unit is hydrostat driven. Anyway the few HP you will loose with the hydrostat is more than made up for in just about everywhere else. Once you blow snow or run a loader with a Stat you will never go back to gear. Cj


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## bbxlr8 (Jan 15, 2022)

There is no right answer for all and you need to determine your uses and budget. In my case, I was happy to buy used and was not biased by brand. I looked for a year and it is impossible to find a good deal and you really need to know what you are looking at to determine what is fair.

Lots of great info above and out there. In addition to *Tractorbynet.com* check out *Messicks* and *goodworkstractors* youtube channels. Lots of great info that can help you on narrowing your choice regardless of the brand you end up with. BTW - there are general trends with brands but each has had its lemon lines or models so keep that in mind when you research used. Then once you hone in, go to the brand-specific forums.

My sweet spot and long-term bang for the buck ended up on the lowest hp to get rid of tier4 emission on the mid-frame tractor. Covid and supply chain has distorted the tractor market, like cars HVAC etc. FWIW The best choice & deal for ME was actually new and I landed on Kubota L2501 HST as TLB with grapple. I love it and for my needs it is the _"goldilocks_" just right tractor


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## simonmeridew (Jan 15, 2022)

bbxlr8 said:


> There is no right answer for all and you need to determine your uses and budget. In my case, I was happy to buy used and was not biased by brand. I looked for a year and it is impossible to find a good deal and you really need to know what you are looking at to determine what is fair.
> 
> Lots of great info above and out there. In addition to *Tractorbynet.com* check out *Messicks* and *goodworkstractors* youtube channels. Lots of great info that can help you on narrowing your choice regardless of the brand you end up with. BTW - there are general trends with brands but each has had its lemon lines or models so keep that in mind when you research used. Then once you hone in, go to the brand-specific forums.
> 
> My sweet spot and long-term bang for the buck ended up on the lowest hp to get rid of tier4 emission on the mid-frame tractor. Covid and supply chain has distorted the tractor market, like cars HVAC etc. FWIW The best choice & deal for ME was actually new and I landed on Kubota L2501 HST as TLB with grapple. I love it and for my needs it is the _"goldilocks_" just right tractor


My friend has a newish 45 horsepower John Deere hydrostatic with all the bells and whistles including a glass cab with three dimensional windows and the door and he started using it out in the woods next thing you know he bought a new door for a thousand bucks cuz the glass was broken keep that in mind if you buy something with a lot of bells and whistles it might come back to bite you. Unless you have a barn or put up a new building you're going to keep your tractor outside and the weather can be hard on tractors and anything with new electronics I'm a little suspect Outdoors


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 15, 2022)

I have 3 old tractors around here that I use for all kinds of things.
Get the stick shift. Save a little money.
Get the larger horsepower
.


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## bbxlr8 (Jan 15, 2022)

Rarely, if ever, does anyone say I wish I got the smaller tractor


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## husky455rancher (Jan 15, 2022)

I would like to try to keep the cost down at least where it makes sense to do so. I still want to get quotes from bobcat which are repainted kiotis. They seem to be the only people doing 0 down 0 interest for 84 months at this time. Kioti charges you more money for the tractor 1200/1700 to get the low rate 1.99 for 84 months. 1200 for the 2610 1700 for the 3510. I did the math and it’s cheaper overall to pay extra for the tractor to get 1.99 over the 4. Whatever it was.
I’ve wTched a lot of YouTube videos and have been trying to educate myself as best as possible.

I see myself doing a lot of loader work and fork or grapple work. I do want to kinda redo my whole yard but I have very little land so it’s not like I’m gonna plow a corn field or anything. I originally wanted a mower deck but now not so much since I’m looking at a little bit bigger of a tractor than say a jd 1025r.


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## dave_dj1 (Jan 15, 2022)

Shop around and get the most for your bucks. I wouldn't have a gear tractor for what I want/do, I love the hydrastatic drive, yeah it whines a little but so worth it if you are doing a lot of loader work. Consider resale value too as you may want to trade up or just get rid of it down the road. 
I'm partial to Kubota for a couple of reasons, 1 they have a great warranty and two they offer zero pct financing from time to time.
I'm not sure how the Kioti compares in price but they seem to be a well made tractor. I've installed third function remote on a couple of them. 
The Kubota L250- which I have has no emissions, is more of a homeowner tractor and priced that way. I believe you can still get a L2501 for under 20K 
My dealer is 6 miles from me, sale includes loaded tires, engine block heater and threw in wheel spacers for me so I could run chains. It has a lift capacity of around 1100 pounds but I don't believe it will lift that much. Of course they rate them "at the pin" so that's with no bucket. After owning it for 3 years and a hundred hours on it I love it. I got the industrial tires too.
Good luck


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## Todd Loosli (Jan 15, 2022)

I bought a new Holland boomer 35 in 2012 and have been very happy with it. I got the std gear 4 speed with H M L and shuttle shift F R.


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## Todd Loosli (Jan 15, 2022)

Came with the loader, a funny side story was I walked into the dealership in a town about 100 miles away and asked to talk to a sales manager. He came up to me and I said " you have one shot at selling me a boomer 35 gear with loader, how much " he stood there and looked at his phone and did some looking and came back with a price that was more than 4000 less than I had been quoted for by 3 dealerships I told him I would let him know by noon the next day. Next day I called and said I'd take it, he told me where to pick it up from, had 2 places in different towns. I got there when I was told to and went and did the paperwork and paid for it. We go out to load it and I'm parked close so I tell him he has to load it on my 16 foot car hauler so he walks over to the one that was mine takes a look and said " hay this has the quick change bucket and it isn't supposed to they put it on the wrong one. There was a 35 with backhoe next to it. Looks at the time and they close in 15 minutes. I told him I wasn't going to stick around or come back so they can change it. Told him load or get my money back. Gives me a puppy dog look and said" well you just got a 600 dollar upgrade and drove it on. Told him thanks and chained it down and drove 3 hours to home. Made a pallet fork setup this summer, my son found a set of forks in salt lake city for 150 nice set to.


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## MiserblOF (Jan 15, 2022)

Traded in my 2006 New Holland TC26DA for a New Holland Workmaster 40 this spring. I can understand the leaning toward a gear tractor, but the Hydro is very easy to get used to and not want to go back. I would suggest you look for a 3 speed Hydro. My TC 26 couldn't go up hills in high range, and the low range was very slow. It did crack the tranny case and cost me $4000 to get it fixed. Other than that it was a great little tractor. I like the extra horsepower of the Workmaster 40, but it is a much bigger machine. It's also a lot louder, between the engine, the hydro whine and all the rattles from the three point hitch. The older turnbuckle style side adjusters were hard to adjust but the new sliding type rattle quite a bit. The difference in stability between the smaller an larger tractor is almost impossible to explain. I go places without even considering it where the smaller tractor was pretty darn scary. The yard and field here aren't steep, but they are quite irregular, and the 26 would often lose traction with a tire off the ground due to it. Doesn't happen with the larger tractor. Bigger rear tires give a much smoother ride as well. 
From what I've seen in the Northeast, the chances of getting a decent deal on a used compact tractor are pretty slim. 
If you buy new, the dealer is probably half of your concern - a dealer you can depend on means a lot. Parts are VERY expensive and it helps to be able to order online and save. I like Messicks for that. They have parts for both New Holland and Kubota. Overall, it seems equivalent Kubota parts are modestly less expensive than New Holland, but if you think tractors are expensive, wait until you need some part that fits in your hand and costs $400..
A warranty is a good thing to have, and after much searching both in 2006 and 2021, I decided the only sane thing was to bite the bullet and go new.


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## Sportfury70 (Jan 15, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> Thanks for the reply’s guys I appreciate it. I’ve been reading up on it and watching videos on different tractors. I wanna see what the price on the bobcat equivalent of the kioti 2610 is. I don’t think they have a 3510 copy. I believe they jump to the 40hp one.


Bobcat CT2035 is the kioti 3510 version, if you need a model to research. Just figure a couple grand more than a CT2025 for the hurkier engine. 

Though the tractor is made by kioti, the implements are all in house bobcat. The mower decks and loaders really are significantly heavier duty on the bobcat than any other CUT or SCUT brand I’ve seen.

Eventually Bobcat is going to make their tractors fully in-house. I think that’s projected mid 2020s or so? If they do I’ll likely trade mine in as the dealer was telling me they will have a brand loyalty incentive when that happens. Ive beaten on bobcat skidsteers for years, they have my confidence.

Started mine today, it was -5 out. Wanted to see how it handled the extreme cold. It didn’t appreciate turning over at first, but it started on the second turn and after a little high idle it was purring away.


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## Sportfury70 (Jan 15, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> I would like to try to keep the cost down at least where it makes sense to do so. I still want to get quotes from bobcat which are repainted kiotis. They seem to be the only people doing 0 down 0 interest for 84 months at this time. Kioti charges you more money for the tractor 1200/1700 to get the low rate 1.99 for 84 months. 1200 for the 2610 1700 for the 3510. I did the math and it’s cheaper overall to pay extra for the tractor to get 1.99 over the 4. Whatever it was.
> I’ve wTched a lot of YouTube videos and have been trying to educate myself as best as possible.
> 
> I see myself doing a lot of loader work and fork or grapple work. I do want to kinda redo my whole yard but I have very little land so it’s not like I’m gonna plow a corn field or anything. I originally wanted a mower deck but now not so much since I’m looking at a little bit bigger of a tractor than say a jd 1025r.


Yeah mine was 0% too, and a 5yr warranty to boot. No one else could beat the deal. Get the mower deck, you can always sell it for every bit as much as you financed it for if you don’t end up using it, it’ll only add a few bucks to the monthly payment.

My bobcat catalogue has a front quicktatch grapple in it, but I’m sure one from Titan attachments would be half the price.


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## lwmibc (Jan 15, 2022)

So pleased to read this entire thread and not one person mentioned 'Jinma'.

So I will--STAY AWAY!. 

No, I don't have one but looked at them in detail a couple of decades ago because the price looked so good, and determined they were junk; I grew up on a dairy farm in the 50's and 60's and knew what a real tractor should look like. A friend bought one without asking and it has spent almost the entire time since as an occupant of shop space because he can't get parts. And of course because it breaks parts.

'Entire time' is what--10 years?

Being an old guy now I have two Kubotas, 18 and 35 hp, one HST and one geared, and both are good tractors. Dealer support is a major consideration. Keep your eyes open around your area and note what colour you see a lot of; that will determine what dealers are still there in the future I bet.

Oh for the poster who dissed the geared transmission in his dozer--I agree and I don't. I own a D4D with geared, have spend a lot of time on a D6C and D8K--and have had to repair the power-shift hydraulic drive in the D8K. That made the never-fail, simple, gear-and-clutch system of the D4 look pretty good! But I'd not want to have clutched a D8, especially clearing winter snowpack in spring off of steep logging roads in west coast mountains. Anyone who has done that will know exactly what I mean.

If you get too big a tractor for your land?--don't worry, just buy more land to fit the tractor. Way more fun.


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## JustPlainJeff (Jan 15, 2022)

I've got a little Kubota BX 2350. Comparable to the JD 1023 or 1025. It's a fine little tractor. But I just purchased 40 acres, with 60% of it being wooded. I'm getting a larger tractor soon. Probably this coming Spring. Not that this will pertain to you, but it may help others. I've done A LOT of research. I've considered Kubota (as I've had a great experience with my current Kubota), Kioti, RK, TYM, and Yanmar. Yanmar is a darn good tractor, and probably has the best transmission (as far as hybrid hydros go), but their dealer/service network can be a problem. As well as obtaining parts. I think I'm going to get a 74 HP tractor, as "most" of them will still have a DPF, but not large enough to require DEF. DEF becomes required at the 75HP threshold. The RK 74 is made by TYM, and is essentially the exact same tractor as the TYM 754. 74 HP power shuttle shift. Hydros aren't available in this HP range. They pretty much stop offering hydro's at around 60HP. Hydros are the best there is when it comes to loader work, and a gear transmission is best when doing dirt work. Hydro's cost HP when doing dirt work. The power shuttle is an in-between. You can shift them on the fly without using the clutch, and can go from forward to reverse without using the clutch as well. There is a slight learning curve when going from a hydro to a shuttle shift, but nothing major. The reason I'm going with this size tractor is because I should be able to put a grapple on it, and pretty much pick up any size log on my property and haul it back to my processing area for splitting firewood. I can also use it for my snow removal business with a push box on the front, as well as pretty much anything else that I can come up with. And I'm going with a cab model as well. That's just a personal preference. Also, the larger you go with a tractor, the larger the tires, and the longer the wheelbase, giving you a much smoother ride. Just so some people know as well, not ALL tractors have a DPF or regen. On some of them, they just have the engine burn hotter, which burns off all of the byproducts (supposedly) meaning they're not required to have the other emissions stuff on them. I'm not an expert on any of that stuff by any means, I"m just throwing that out there in case some people care, and want to stay away from it. Also remember, when tractor manufacturers list their specs as lifting ability to full height, it's very misleading. Those numbers are AT THE PIVOT PINS of the bucket. Not when you have a set of forks, or a bucket attached, and the weight is actually 2'-3' out in front of the pivot pins. Whatever any manufacturer lists as their ability to lift to max height, you can realistically deduct 20% from that amount when using with a set of forks or bucket. In some instances, it will lift even more than 20% less. In any event, this is the one I think I'll be getting.


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## rwoods (Jan 15, 2022)

For those in the used tractor camp, I have one caveat: Unless you want to drive yourself crazy chasing electrical bugs and neutralizing corrosion everywhere, do not, I repeat, DO NOT, buy a compact tractor that was used for spraying liquid fertilizer. Worse than termites - the little critters that eat your house not the tractor brand. 

Ron


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## rwoods (Jan 15, 2022)

You are wise to check all lift ratings, both FEL and three point hitch. Some Manufacturers are more straight forward than others. Deere for example gives both the pin and 24" out from the pin for its FELs and it gives the rating for 24" out from the 3 point hitch ends. That 24" makes a huge difference.

Ron


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## SuperDuty04 (Jan 16, 2022)

My brother in law got the deal of a century this summer. He bought a JD 3720 full cab, 4x4, with loader, for $1600 off of the university. The mechanic determined it had a bad transmission so the director priced it as such, but my brother in law determined it was a bad relay instead and bought and replaced the relay. So be basically stole the thing and we’ve used it for everything under the sun.


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## Sportfury70 (Jan 16, 2022)

SuperDuty04 said:


> My brother in law got the deal of a century this summer. He bought a JD 3720 full cab, 4x4, with loader, for $1600 off of the university. The mechanic determined it had a bad transmission so the director priced it as such, but my brother in law determined it was a bad relay instead and bought and replaced the relay. So be basically stole the thing and we’ve used it for everything under the sun.


Well there’s a candidate for the you suck thread! Jeez $1600 even with a bad tranny was a great deal.


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## lone wolf (Jan 16, 2022)

Sportfury70 said:


> Well there’s a candidate for the you suck thread! Jeez $1600 even with a bad tranny was a great deal.


At first I thought 16,000.00 but 1600.00 is a give away.


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## SuperDuty04 (Jan 16, 2022)

Yeah he REALLY made out! I think the solenoid for the tranny was a couple hundred bucks but for less than $1800 he ended up with a 39hp diesel tractor that runs amazing. The heat and air even works perfectly. And since he runs the shop that always did all the maintenance of this tractor, he knew the maintenance history.


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## lone wolf (Jan 16, 2022)

Whats that tractor now worth 20 k?


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## SuperDuty04 (Jan 16, 2022)

lone wolf said:


> Whats that tractor now worth 20 k?


I believe that’s the ball park of it. 
edit: I guess it’s actually a 3520 so it must be a 37hp tractor. I thought for sure it was 39. His is a 2010 and i just googled them and looks like 30k is more of the ball park for that year.


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## Sportfury70 (Jan 16, 2022)

For your reading pleasure:


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## SuperDuty04 (Jan 16, 2022)

He gets deals like this through the university all the time tho. He bought a Chevy sedan that had 1400 miles for a thousand bucks. I got a 6 holder kayak trailer for $100 from the same place.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 16, 2022)

lwmibc said:


> So pleased to read this entire thread and not one person mentioned 'Jinma'.
> 
> So I will--STAY AWAY!.
> 
> ...


Oh my wife wants a “farm” not really specific other than “farm” I would more land but I have a pretty small mortgage by todays standards, which allows me to buy stupid things that I don’t really need.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 16, 2022)

Sportfury70 said:


> For your reading pleasure:


Thank you sir


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## lwmibc (Jan 16, 2022)

"....which allows me to buy stupid things that I don’t really need."

Okay, I'm puzzled--what's that got to do with buying a tractor?

One thing I don't think I saw mentioned--is your land flat? If so then one doesn't really need 4WD, and then some of the older farm tractors, if found well maintained, can be a lot more solid than a lot of this new stuff. Say like an IH 504 Utility diesel. I have no idea how one could destroy one of those.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 16, 2022)

lwmibc said:


> "....which allows me to buy stupid things that I don’t really need."
> 
> Okay, I'm puzzled--what's that got to do with buying a tractor?
> 
> One thing I don't think I saw mentioned--is your land flat? If so then one doesn't really need 4WD, and then some of the older farm tractors, if found well maintained, can be a lot more solid than a lot of this new stuff. Say like an IH 504 Utility diesel. I have no idea how one could destroy one of those.



yeah it’s pretty flat. There is a steep hill on k e side but if I drive to the other side of the house it’s a much more gentle incline.


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## iceclimber (Jan 17, 2022)

3000 FPS said:


> I have 3 old tractors around here that I use for all kinds of things.
> Get the stick shift. Save a little money.
> Get the larger horsepower
> .


Nothing wrong with stick shift. All I have every had on my tractors. Did have shuttle on. 580 Case backhoe.
I bought my last tractor in 2005. A 243 Massey-Ferguson . Has 52hp, and 49 pto hp. Went to East Texas to get it. Dealer had 12 of them in an outbuilding. It was 20,000.00 with frontend loader, and dual remote rear hydraulics. Been a great tractor all these years.


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## laynes69 (Jan 17, 2022)

I picked up a 2820D Yanmar for 11,500 out the door with a new front loader and a 6' brush mower. It's a grey market tractor that was rebuilt and sandblasted and repainted. Runs and looks like new, a real workhorse. There's deals out there, you just have to look. A Kubota equivalent would cost me around 26k. Always go bigger (more HP) and 4 wheel drive is a must. This is my 1983 tractor.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 17, 2022)

Got a few more numbers today and waiting in the bobcat numbers. The 2800 difference between the 2610 and 3510 all said and done. Third function is a grand. Not sure if I can add that on myself for less or not I have to look into it. I’d like a grapple but not sure it’s in the budget at this time. The grapple is another 2500 on top of the third function. 5’ brush hog brand tiller is 2500 and brush hog brand box blade is 1k. Trying to decide on attachments as well.


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## ericm979 (Jan 18, 2022)

A universal 3rd function kit is around $500. Summit's includes a high quality joystick handle with buttons. You'll need to fab a couple brackets and buy hydraulic hose not included in the kit.


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## Ryan'smilling (Jan 18, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> Got a few more numbers today and waiting in the bobcat numbers. The 2800 difference between the 2610 and 3510 all said and done. Third function is a grand. Not sure if I can add that on myself for less or not I have to look into it. I’d like a grapple but not sure it’s in the budget at this time. The grapple is another 2500 on top of the third function. 5’ brush hog brand tiller is 2500 and brush hog brand box blade is 1k. Trying to decide on attachments as well.



I installed this kit to give my tractor hydraulics for running a grapple. It's a diverter, which personally is what I'd prefer instead of a "true third function" because I can feather the action of the grapple. It does require buying some hoses and fittings, but the price is great. You can diy it even cheaper, but I'm not that good.









The Ultimate Diverter Valve Kit - BoltOnHooks LLC


Includes everything pictured. Limited stock on hand, may not ship right away. Made in the USA




www.boltonhooks.com





Also, for $2500 I'd really be looking hard at an everything attachments grapple instead. They're light and designed for use on compact tractors. A heavy skid loader grapple sucks on a cut.


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## holeycow (Jan 18, 2022)

That's why I prefer a bale spear rather than a grapple on a bucket. It's WAY lighter and MUCH faster. It has drawbacks, but they are relatively minor.

A double spear can be used as forks in a pinch too.

Overbuilt is just as much of a problem as underbuilt, imo.

the loader on my Deutz could destroy itself and the tractor if you aren't careful, for example. It could lift way more than it could realistically handle, which is not a common problem with farm loaders.


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## ericm979 (Jan 18, 2022)

The EA grapple is good. Many skid steer grapples weigh hundreds of pounds more which takes away from the net lifting capacity. I've exceeded capacity a number of times.

I have my EA grapple connected to a rear remote. I can feather with it but I never do. I just keep it on until the lids stop crushing whatever is in them. A 3rd function would work fine for me. I'll make one someday.

You'd be hard pressed to find all the components in Kenny's diverter kit linked above for significantly less money.


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## holeycow (Jan 18, 2022)

As long as the remote levers are conveniently placed, there's not a whole lot of benefit for the cost compared to a "third function" button. The remote lever is fine albeit a little less "ergonomic". Unless you are in a super duper hurry all the time. In that case you will create more to worry about..


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## husky455rancher (Jan 18, 2022)

This stuff is all new to me guys so I really appreciate the info!


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## rwoods (Jan 18, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> ... I’d like a grapple but not sure it’s in the budget at this time. The grapple is another 2500 on top of the third function ... Trying to decide on attachments as well.





Ryan'smilling said:


> ...
> *Also, for $2500 I'd really be looking hard at an everything attachments grapple* instead. They're light and designed for use on compact tractors. A heavy skid loader grapple sucks on a cut.



h455r, you are doing the right thing to put a lot thought into it before you buy as things add up in a hurry. Prioritize what you plan to do with the machine then spec from there. Same for attachments. Do your homework and when you have a general idea ask a friend or two to help with a search.

I determined that mine would be used the most for moving and loading logs, so it need to be easily transported on my existing trailer, agile to fit in yards and the woods, and with significant lift capacity. I toyed with a small skid steer but there aren't many under 6000#. For that and other reasons I decided on a tractor. The size and weight limitations quickly eliminated the more-bang-for-your-buck farm tractor. As I dug into loader specs, it was easy to see that only the larger compacts could handle the size logs I regularly cut. Given the costs, I bought an older large compact tractor that needed a lot of attention but had a loader and auxiliary hydraulics. I then turned my attention to a grapple and soon found they were very expensive and many prohibitively heavy. I narrowed the field to the Everything Attachment Wicked Root Grapple and the Rural King Granite Grapple, but both were between $2500 and $3000. A friend spotted on FB an ad from Southern Implement Depot for the grapple pictured below. Though it doesn't have a500 steel it was fairly light and plenty strong for my application of picking up and moving logs and the occasional brush gathering and piling. The delivered cost was under $1000. I have been very pleased with it although I had to have the cylinder attachments re-welded due to inadequate penetration. I came to appreciate the two thumbs over the rather standard long wide thumb. As a cautionary tale: The wood ministry that I cut for, purchased a slightly smaller capacity tractor, spend a chunk of change at a dealership having a factory third function installed, and then bought a $1350 rock grapple locally only to find that there was very little lift capacity left. They replace the grapple with a set of forks and do the same jobs as I do just differently and with less maneuverability. The third function has no function with their set-up.

The Southern Implement Depot no longer list prices. This is like the one I bought except I splurged a little to get one in my tractor's color.




Ron


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## husky455rancher (Jan 19, 2022)

I’m was talking to the mrs about it last night and she made a good point. If I stepped down in size a bit to my original plan of a sub compact I could get the loader,mower deck and a backhoe ad opposed to the compact with just the loader. I’m sure the backhoe would be handy at times but I don’t see it getting a ton of use. We’ll at least not at this time. I def could make the subcompact work. I always tend to go for overkill more often than not it’s just my nature I suppose.
So now I’m more conflicted than when I started looking.


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## Sportfury70 (Jan 19, 2022)

A backhoe on a scut is little more than rear ballast. It’s fine for a garden or some very light duty digging, but for those few times you really need a backhoe it won’t give you what you need.

However, if you plan to use it to mow and move material, the scut is great. The whole reason I have mine is because I have a large yard to mow and a bunch of uses for the loader. It’s perfect for my 3ish acres of land. I still have to go around with the push mower to clean up the tight turns tho. A cut would be too big for it to be my primary mower, too many places it wouldn’t fit.

If mowing is not needed, GET THE LRGER TRACTOR! I was considering a bigger one and keeping my little husky ride-on, this one works better for me. Based on what you’ve said in this thread, I think a larger will work better for you.

Oh, and used implements are more common, at least in my area, for the larger tractors. Another thing to consider.


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## Ryan'smilling (Jan 19, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> I’m was talking to the mrs about it last night and she made a good point. If I stepped down in size a bit to my original plan of a sub compact I could get the loader,mower deck and a backhoe ad opposed to the compact with just the loader. I’m sure the backhoe would be handy at times but I don’t see it getting a ton of use. We’ll at least not at this time. I def could make the subcompact work. I always tend to go for overkill more often than not it’s just my nature I suppose.
> So now I’m more conflicted than when I started looking.




Here's my take. If you wanna play with a backhoe, rent a mini a couple times. They're super fun and very handy. For serious digging, hire someone with insurance and skills. The guys who clock hours on those machines are orders of magnitude more productive. 

About the mower: they're too much money for what they are. The price of a mid mount mower deck on a SCUT is about the same as a decent zero turn, which will mow better. Worst part about a MMM is that you're just about stuck with it. They're pretty much tractor specific, so you can't just sell it to anybody, like you could with a zero turn. 

I don't mean to disagree with your wife, but if you want a loader for much over 500# or much pulling power, a CUT is a better buy.


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## Defdice (Jan 19, 2022)

I have been watching this thread for a while. I live on 40 acres that are 95 percent wooded with about a 1/3 acre "lawn" and have a massey GC1720. I don't use it for mowing the lawn as it is too heavy and ruts up and kills the grass. It is doable if you remove the loader and backhoe and have turf tires (or use it on drier ground/lawn), but I don't think its worth the money or hassle. I use the backhoe more than the loader, such as for digging/maintaining ditches, loosing dirt before moving it with the loader, digging holes, have a ripper tooth for roots and stumps, etc. Mostly I use it for skidding logs. I have a thumb on it and can pick up very large (in my opinion - 10ft by 18in pine logs) and place them on my raised chainsaw mill platform. Also, I hook up log tongs to the hoe bucket or ripper tooth for the bigger logs, and I put 2 hooks on either side of the front loader bucket to attach 2 log tongs to (having the weight closer to the pivot point really helps in picking up even larger logs as well). It is true that the backhoe is great ballast, my buddy has a larger Bobcat that he had to fill the tires with antifreeze and is always having to add more ballast to use his loader to full capacity - although more weight equals more damage to the ground.

Have I looked at the larger front end lift capacities of other tractors with a little bit of envy - yes. Have I ever needed more lift capacity - no. Not knocking bigger tractors, just giving my experience. If you're "just gonna use it to do my tree length firewood and log moving and clean up my yard and do some landscaping" then don't disregard scuts


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## pdqdl (Jan 19, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> I normally enjoy shifting. I almost always use a standard in my cars. I was thinking one thing if I get a hydro and decide to sell it ever I assume that would help resale. As would the 35hp over the 25. We’ll I would think anyway….



This seems to have become a conversation about manual vs hydrostat transmissions.

Manual transmissions last longer, operate with less friction and consequently, have lower operating expenses. They are also much less expensive to repair when you have a driveline failure. They are also vastly more precise with respect to ground speed, which can be very important to operations like spraying herbicides.

Hydrostatic transmissions are considerably more efficient with respect to any kind of operation involving frequent changes of speed or direction. Loader operation, mowing, and just general utility work are way easier and faster with a hydrostatic driveline. Any kind of work that involves clutch-eating jobs like the gradual application of maximum force against a load will almost mandate having a hydrostatic tranny, and they are much better for any sort of job that requires slow, precise control of the machine. That being said, some machines have really crappy controls, and the hydrostatic transmission can also become the biggest problem on a jerky, out of control machine.


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## lwmibc (Jan 19, 2022)

Aw hell, cut to the chase here--if the mrs is anything like your picture there, get the one she thinks is sexy and get to work, the rest will figure itself out.

More seriously--unless I missed it we have no idea how much land you're intending to work with one, and what it consists of. As--a backhoe on a 35 hp tractor will just dig a septic tank hole, one on a subcompact will dig the hole for the distribution box. Both will trench, the little one 3' deep, the larger 6' deep. You mentioned 'landscaping'; the bigger the tractor the greater the chances of running into a wall. Mowing a lawn working round the house and shrubs, HST is better with a belly mower; mowing a field with a brush cutter a gear transmission works just fine and you don't have to hold a pedal down. PTO farming implements will require hp in the 35-40 range unless they're for just a small vegetable garden. You'll feel comfortable lifting up to maybe 600 lbs with the loader on a 35 hp tractor, 300 lbs on something BX23 size. On nice flat ground, the L3400 loader will just lift the engine out of the '65 Thunderbird, the BX1860 will just lift the engine out of a '2005 Focus.

Compared to tractors in the 50's and 60's, to an old guy all these things are impressively competent now, who would have thought that a BX25 size tractor could be made to do so much. Why not put some jobs together, take some money and go rent one for a day or two and see how you like it? I think a lot of talk could be eliminated that way; try one, all it can be is big enough or not. 

And you'll find out whether the mrs thinks it's sexy; might be worth the rental fee right there.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 19, 2022)

I thank you all you info and opinions on everything. It does seem that the mower is a bad idea because of the price for what you get. I’ve looked a lot online and many people saw use that money for a zero turn if you need a mower. Honestly I don’t need a mower it would just be a way for me to get more use of the tractor if I had one.
It will be almost all loader work for me. I wanna fix up my yard and move around log lengths and firewood. Honestly I don’t know what a 10-12 ft tree length of oak weighs I really have no idea. Maybe a sub compact could lift it maybe I’d have to cut it in half? I’ve had full length delivered before too but not really recently. I could easily cut those in half if need be.
Are the little backhoes really that worthless? If I wanted to cheap out I could just get a sub compact with the loader and forks and call it a day. Picking out a proper tractor is harder than I thought it would be that’s for sure. I want to be happy with my purchase but don’t wanna just buy way more than I need as well. I do that with chainsaws and my log splitter


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## pdqdl (Jan 19, 2022)

AGrig06 said:


> Get a John Deere 2755 with a fork, works great for moving bales, I'm sure you could throw a bucket on and go to work! Holy cow it can climb any hill, up/down, or drive on it sideways! The 2755 also goes pretty fast on the road, like 40 I'd say.





lone wolf said:


> 40? Thats fast as hell aint it?



There aren't any tractors that i know of that will go that fast.

Your tractor is only good for 15 mph. _Downhill, with a tailwind_. It just seems like 40mph on account of the poor steering, tires, and brakes that all tractors have. Read for yourself:




__





TractorData.com John Deere 2755 tractor transmission information







www.tractordata.com





With 16.9-24 rear tires.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 19, 2022)

lwmibc said:


> Aw hell, cut to the chase here--if the mrs is anything like your picture there, get the one she thinks is sexy and get to work, the rest will figure itself out.
> 
> More seriously--unless I missed it we have no idea how much land you're intending to work with one, and what it consists of. As--a backhoe on a 35 hp tractor will just dig a septic tank hole, one on a subcompact will dig the hole for the distribution box. Both will trench, the little one 3' deep, the larger 6' deep. You mentioned 'landscaping'; the bigger the tractor the greater the chances of running into a wall. Mowing a lawn working round the house and shrubs, HST is better with a belly mower; mowing a field with a brush cutter a gear transmission works just fine and you don't have to hold a pedal down. PTO farming implements will require hp in the 35-40 range unless they're for just a small vegetable garden. You'll feel comfortable lifting up to maybe 600 lbs with the loader on a 35 hp tractor, 300 lbs on something BX23 size. On nice flat ground, the L3400 loader will just lift the engine out of the '65 Thunderbird, the BX1860 will just lift the engine out of a '2005 Focus.
> 
> ...



Sounds like a good idea. Maybe I’ll call around about a rental. Oh and that is not the mrs in the picture but she does like tractors


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## holeycow (Jan 19, 2022)

Don't make the all-too-common mistake of getting too-small of a machine. Too large can be a pain too. As someone mentioned, lifting capacities on farm loaders are as optimistic as towing capacities for pickup trucks. Imo, anyone who approaches those capacities hasn't a clue how close to disaster they are.

I am in the buy a lawn mower to mow the lawn and a tractor to do tractor things camp. Don't buy a wee tractor to mow the lawn expecting it do behave much like a tractor when you want to push, pull, or lift.

lawn mowing "tractors" are pretty cheap used. Small farm tractors can be quite an expense.

anyway, you are down the rabbit hole now, lol.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 19, 2022)

holeycow said:


> Don't make the all-too-common mistake of getting too-small of a machine. Too large can be a pain too. As someone mentioned, lifting capacities on farm loaders are as optimistic as towing capacities for pickup trucks. Imo, anyone who approaches those capacities hasn't a clue how close to disaster they are.
> 
> I am in the buy a lawn mower to mow the lawn and a tractor to do tractor things camp. Don't buy a wee tractor to mow the lawn expecting it do behave much like a tractor when you want to push, pull, or lift.
> 
> ...


Oh you ain’t kidding, I joke with my wife that this is consuming my life. I should just buy the bigger tractor or don’t get anything. I would be the guy who bent the tractor in half or flipped it cuse the manual said it could hold this much weight haha. So many decisions……


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## Sandhill Crane (Jan 19, 2022)

If you don't need a pto, check out used Kubota r420's or r520's.


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## pdqdl (Jan 19, 2022)

No, no, no. Those are just wheel loaders. Tractors are a different machine entirely. Even a small skid steer would offer a great deal more versatility.

And they are a LOT more expensive than a little ag tractor. I seem to recall that budget was a major consideration.


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## holeycow (Jan 19, 2022)

You need a pto.


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## holeycow (Jan 19, 2022)

And hydraulics. 2 remotes.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 19, 2022)

I called a bobcat place that ships all over the country and he said he has 10 of each coming but doesn’t expect them for quite a while. He mentioned summertime which seems a little ridiculous but who knows. He had the best price so far and said he would call me when he hears anything. I don’t see me waiting that long though so I’m gonna keep looking.


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## holeycow (Jan 19, 2022)

Lots of folks talk about motor, motor, motor when a tractor is more about transmission, transmission, transmission. I don't mean hydro vs manual, I mean number of gears (if geared) number of ranges and ratios..

anyway, if you're buying new it's easy. You don't "buy the dealer" yet you would like to have a decent one fairly handy. If you buy a good example of a good model it will never see the dealer.

one reason I like my Kioti is that it is so easy to service. Virtually every service point is easily accessible. Some machines have stuff hiding all over the place. I like that it is a tidy design. I didn't find the Mahindras (the real, Indian ones) to be that way. That was enough for me, I found them to be relatively untidy.

you need to get your butt from in front of the screen and go see a bunch in person. That way it will just come to you naturally with a lot less stress.

someone with more little tractor experience than I should come up with a list of likes and dislikes, or a list of questions for that nice bum to ask the dealers.....


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## SS396driver (Jan 19, 2022)

SuperDuty04 said:


> He gets deals like this through the university all the time tho. He bought a Chevy sedan that had 1400 miles for a thousand bucks. I got a 6 holder kayak trailer for $100 from the same place.


that's why its 100k to go to college 
Just busting nuts. 

I have a bx25 Kubota . Do I wish I had bought a bigger one yes do I regret buying it no. It does everything I need it to do and I can store it inside . When I need a bigger unit I rent one .


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## Dirtflirt (Jan 19, 2022)

A lot of opinions here so I will add my 2 Cents. I had a 43 HP Kubota and sold it because it was too big for what I was doing with it. When I was shopping I wanted the smallest footprint that had at least 22HP at the PTO to run a Woodland Mills 6" Chipper. I looked at the green ones, I looked at the orange ones and I would up with a Mahindra that I never thought I would buy just because of the stigma, then I read an article that back in the '50s (or so) IH started what they thought was going to be a partnership with Mahindra to build tractors for the international markets but they got snaked after they showed them how to build tractors. Anyway, I have a Max 28 Shuttle that was way more cost-effective than the green or orange ones can lift more and turn tighter. This thing is tough, I punish it, try to and pick up way too much, and work it hard. This unit helped me haul about 60K LBS of trees out of my last investment property. I bought the pallet fork attachment by Titan and they are on there as much or more than the bucket, I would like to have a grapple but that is still on the wish list. My only regret is buying the MMM, I got the 60" deck and the ground clearance is pathetic, can never get it up high enough, the mount linkages get hung up in the woods and this last time came up through the floorboard. For the 3k that I spent on the MMM, I could have bought a dedicated mower. Food for thought, Cheers!


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## bbxlr8 (Jan 19, 2022)

I'll jump back in based on the latest posts from OP Huskey455rancher - I think you are on the right track and FWIW I think time spent upfront will pay off for you. Going and looking is great when you have some direction to narrow it down.

Yours may be similar to my situation after all. A couple of additional points to add:

I gave up on the do-it-all as I decided on the next level up. Background I have a 60"mmm on my old ford and it has been great but I have been working on it as much as I cut. I landed on keeping it going with spit and duct tape and getting a ZTM when the day comes. As per above, it is a PIA in the woods even with the deck locked in "up"
My Kubota is the smallest of the L series but has none of the emissions "stuff" It is WAY under-stressed and HP is via a bigger engine & only down that low due to timing and throttle stop (bit like cars in 74)
It runs the same hydraulic pump for the BH & Loader as the rest of the L series except the 47. As I said in prev. post above, digging, clearing and moving rock abilities were key over ultimate ground pulling ability via the 3ph
It is right-sized for the woods in my case - Ex) with a Landpride grapple I moved 60K pounds of deadfall and rotten logs stumps, etc in 2 weekends.
The weight of the tractor is a big factor.
A box blade is super useful
This evening, I finished bucking a standing dead and moved & split two buckets worth in no time and little effort. I thought I knew but am surprised all the time at the difference the tractor makes.

You will not regret getting one no matter where you land. I can't believe I did it the hard way for so long!!
Balancing my saw with a 24" bar is a challenge on the way back - the next step is a saw holder...


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## bbxlr8 (Jan 19, 2022)

SS396driver said:


> I have a bx25 Kubota . Do I wish I had bought a bigger one yes do I regret buying it no. It does everything I need it to do and I can store it inside . When I need a bigger unit I rent one .



Mark - that is pretty ingenious with the chains on the back


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## holeycow (Jan 19, 2022)

Dirtflirt said:


> A lot of opinions here so I will add my 2 Cents. I had a 43 HP Kubota and sold it because it was too big for what I was doing with it. When I was shopping I wanted the smallest footprint that had at least 22HP at the PTO to run a Woodland Mills 6" Chipper. I looked at the green ones, I looked at the orange ones and I would up with a Mahindra that I never thought I would buy just because of the stigma, then I read an article that back in the '50s (or so) IH started what they thought was going to be a partnership with Mahindra to build tractors for the international markets but they got snaked after they showed them how to build tractors. Anyway, I have a Max 28 Shuttle that was way more cost-effective than the green or orange ones can lift more and turn tighter. This thing is tough, I punish it, try to and pick up way too much, and work it hard. This unit helped me haul about 60K LBS of trees out of my last investment property. I bought the pallet fork attachment by Titan and they are on there as much or more than the bucket, I would like to have a grapple but that is still on the wish list. My only regret is buying the MMM, I got the 60" deck and the ground clearance is pathetic, can never get it up high enough, the mount linkages get hung up in the woods and this last time came up through the floorboard. For the 3k that I spent on the MMM, I could have bought a dedicated mower. Food for thought, Cheers!


Is that a Mahindra, a TYM, or a Mitsubishi?


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## CaseyForrest (Jan 19, 2022)

My first tractor was a B2650 with loader and MMM. Firewood, mowing, maintaining the drive etc..... basic homeowner tractor duties. We live on about 3, unwooded acres.

I loved the way it mowed, but quickly grew tired of going around trees, having to cut corners short simply because the tractor just couldn't get into them. I was creating work for myself. I sold the deck to a lady I know who bought a 2650 to blow snow, but decided she could also use it to replace her tired ingersoll. Bought a Z726x and never looked back.

For firewood, I was always using it right at its limits. I got logs from my previous place of employment and usually cut them at 14'. 12-14" white oak was about all it wanted to pick up and that was with a 5' box blade as counterweight. I also wanted to make moving processed wood easier, but didn't have the lift capacity to make that happen with the 2650.

So I started looking for a new tractor and once comparing specs, pricing, weight, utility etc I settled on an L4060 Rops. Its definitely overkill for my 3 acres, but I am not left wanting more tractor. I can easily lift face cords+ green white oak, hickory etc. I can run the WM8H chipper without worrying about slowing down. I purchased 3 rear remotes and the top and tilt kit at the same time, but I installed those items.

Firewood is serious business here, and I didn't want to have to upgrade again. Not many people say I wish I would have bought a smaller tractor, but you'll hear many people say they wish they had bought larger. Buy as large as your budget will allow.

I wouldnt personally get weighed down with the cost of a backhoe. Cool to have, sure. But you can rent a mini ex and be far more efficient at the task, and not have to store a backhoe if you dont want it on the tractor.


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## SS396driver (Jan 19, 2022)

bbxlr8 said:


> Mark - that is pretty ingenious with the chains on the back


Ya have to improvise.


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## rwoods (Jan 19, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> ... It will be almost all loader work for me. I wanna fix up my yard and move around log lengths and firewood. Honestly I don’t know what a 10-12 ft tree length of oak weighs I really have no idea. Maybe a sub compact could lift it maybe I’d have to cut it in half? I’ve had full length delivered before too but not really recently. I could easily cut those in half if need be.
> ...


If you plan to lift logs, then use this calculator: https://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl?calculator=log_weight. I have found it very helpful. Also learn your loader's capacities. It will pick up a whole more below hood height than full height. Don't start out big. Get a feel for it and your tractor's tipping points which will vary with the load's weight, position and length, your speed, the terrain, etc. I treat mine pretty much like a tree - it will try to kill you.

Ron


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## Cliff R (Jan 19, 2022)

I've been watching this thread and have also been compact tractor shopping.

So far I've went to John Deere, Yanmar, Kubota and contacted Bobcat and Kioti (nothing in stock). Yesterday I drove to a dealer who sells used, John Deere and Kubota. I tested a B2601 and an L2501. Didn't care much for the B2601 at all. Slow hydraulics and the operators station was cramped. I do NOT like the hydrostatic pedal but could get used to it. Much prefer two separate pedals. The L2501 is a stout machine, way more of a tractor and would never be a mower and probably why no mid PTO is even offered. It's a bit lacking in the "H" speed range, OK in the M and plenty of grunt in L. It came with a 66" bucket and did fine with it with only loaded tires.

Today I went to the Yanmar dealer and spent some time on an SA424. It's bigger than a Kubota B series and smaller than an L. There were a LOT of things I really liked about the SA424. The hydraulics were smooth and quick, excellent operators station, plenty of power in both ranges. Negatives were the 54" bucket, it could have easily handled a 60" and did not have the skid-steer mount was was a quick-attach set-up.

I'm going to look at and test a John Deere 3025E Friday. When I looked at JD a few weeks ago it was close to closing time so no time for a test drive. Good looking tractor but not the HD version like the D or R series. I'll see how it does testing it but right now I'm leaning toward the Yanmar. It's also a LOT less expensive than the others outfitted the same way........


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## husky455rancher (Jan 19, 2022)

Cliff R said:


> I've been watching this thread and have also been compact tractor shopping.
> 
> So far I've went to John Deere, Yanmar, Kubota and contacted Bobcat and Kioti (nothing in stock). Yesterday I drove to a dealer who sells used, John Deere and Kubota. I tested a B2601 and an L2501. Didn't care much for the B2601 at all. Slow hydraulics and the operators station was cramped. I do NOT like the hydrostatic pedal but could get used to it. Much prefer two separate pedals. The L2501 is a stout machine, way more of a tractor and would never be a mower and probably why no mid PTO is even offered. It's a bit lacking in the "H" speed range, OK in the M and plenty of grunt in L. It came with a 66" bucket and did fine with it with only loaded tires.
> 
> ...



funny you said yanmar I was just looking at the same tractor online. I inquired about it so we’ll see what happens. I’m surprised at the lifting capacity. Is it a compact or subcompact? Do you mind saying what he was selling it for? I’ve seen some prices but their just da all over the place.


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## holeycow (Jan 19, 2022)

A neighbor has a 50hp Yanmar in green. It is a helluva nice little tractor. Very impressively built.


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## Robpm (Jan 19, 2022)

I live on 2.3 acres in northern NJ. I have woods all around me. I grew up in NH burning 12 cord of wood each winter in a Sam Daniels Wood furnace which was placed in the basement. We had an IH 330 Utility tractor with a FEL and prior to that a MF 30 utility (yellow) with an FEL and BH. We also burned 12 cord in the Grimm evaporator making lots of maple syrup every March as well. I say all that because I bought a used 2005 JD 990 CUT with a 300CX FEL and an 8B BH close to 10 years ago. It only had 75 hours on it when I bought it and it saved me $10k by not buying a new one. I know today in the day of Covid those kind of deals do not exist or if they do they are rare. The 990 is a 40 hp 4WD tractor with a collar shift transmission (3 forward, 1 revers with 3 ranges giving 9 ahead and 3 in reverse. That is the kind of tractor I grew up with. it is simple to work on and does not have any electronics. I have a Stihl 044 that is over 20 years old and still cuts like it was new and I have cut a lot of wood with it. I also own a 200T which comes in handy when you have to be in a tree. I have my own ropes and climbing gear for when I need it. I have a Splitfire wood splitter which is the best splitter I have ever used. Until recently I burned about 6 cord of wood each winter to help save on the gas bill. I love the tractor and the FEL and the BH. This thing has paid for itself with no problem. The BH has been a real benefit. I still mow my lawn which takes me about 1.5 hours with a regular push mower. I only have 2.3 acres but I am glad for the power and the size and wish often I had even more lift power. I would not downsize at all. The thing would drive up a rock wall if could have the traction and not fall. I have purchased a Woodland Mills chipper which still sits in the box and an Igland 3501 winch for it as well which I have not had time to use. I have a set of pallat forks which also have a grapple setup. This tractor is so handy I do not know what I would do without it. So I would be one to say there is a benefit in going as big as you can. You wont be dissapointed by going as big as you can afford. By the way I'm almost 62 and am the managing director of a German subsidiary with the US and Canada as our specific market so that takes the major portion of my time.

I agree with others, go out and look at the tractors, try them out. It is the best way to get a feel. By the way, my JD990 is really a Yanmar through and through. The whole tractor was made by Yanmar, not just parts of it. Yanmar tractors are excellent tractors and their diesel engines are some of the most fuel efficient in the industry. One time before I bought this tractor I was sitting with a Kubota salesman at a dealership and he said he wished that Kubota engines were as fuel efficient as the Yanmar engines. Yanmar is over 100 years old. Go out and look around and try them out. Bring your wife and let her try it out as well. You cannot do wrong in doing so.


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## Cliff R (Jan 20, 2022)

"funny you said yanmar I was just looking at the same tractor online. I inquired about it so we’ll see what happens. I’m surprised at the lifting capacity. Is it a compact or subcompact? Do you mind saying what he was selling it for? I’ve seen some prices but their just da all over the place."

The Yanmar 424 would be more of a compact than a "sub-compact". I'd compare it to a John Deere 20 series although it's close to the 30 series. It's a very capable machine with great lifting capacity for the size. They really should have set it up with the skid steer quick attach system and a 60" bucket. Since I tested several tractors the Yanmar so far has been the most impressive. 

Pricing is attractive as well. I can get the SA424 with a loader, third function hydraulics added, a grapple, and loaded tires for apprx $22,000. They are also offering 0 percent financing this month out to 84 months....


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## bthom70 (Jan 20, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> funny you said yanmar I was just looking at the same tractor online. I inquired about it so we’ll see what happens. I’m surprised at the lifting capacity. Is it a compact or subcompact? Do you mind saying what he was selling it for? I’ve seen some prices but their just da all over the place.


Hello from Southbury CT, I've also been watching this thread too. We have a Yanmar dealer in Newtown and 2 Mahindra's within 30-45min and a Kioti in 20min. That Bobcat lineup look sweet too. The green stuff is off my list.
We just moved into this house in Southbury 1yr ago with 2.4acres and 1/2 wooded/hilly and lots of tree logs pushed over the edge of the cliff. A backhoe is important to me I have lots of rocks to dig and stuff to plant. I'm still in my honey do list phase at this house and with the market and supplies etc shopping for a tractor is research mode until inventory/price opens up.


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## holeycow (Jan 20, 2022)

I think the Kioti powertrain warranty is far, far longer than the bobcat one. like 6 years unlimited hours vs 2 years 1500hrs. Wth?

there's that..


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## rwoods (Jan 20, 2022)

Robpm said:


> I live on 2.3 acres in northern NJ. I have woods all around me. I grew up in NH burning 12 cord of wood each winter in a Sam Daniels Wood furnace which was placed in the basement. We had an IH 330 Utility tractor with a FEL and prior to that a MF 30 utility (yellow) with an FEL and BH. We also burned 12 cord in the Grimm evaporator making lots of maple syrup every March as well. I say all that because I bought a used 2005 JD 990 CUT with a 300CX FEL and an 8B BH close to 10 years ago. It only had 75 hours on it when I bought it and it saved me $10k by not buying a new one. I know today in the day of Covid those kind of deals do not exist or if they do they are rare. The 990 is a 40 hp 4WD tractor with a collar shift transmission (3 forward, 1 revers with 3 ranges giving 9 ahead and 3 in reverse. That is the kind of tractor I grew up with. it is simple to work on and does not have any electronics. I have a Stihl 044 that is over 20 years old and still cuts like it was new and I have cut a lot of wood with it. I also own a 200T which comes in handy when you have to be in a tree. I have my own ropes and climbing gear for when I need it. I have a Splitfire wood splitter which is the best splitter I have ever used. Until recently I burned about 6 cord of wood each winter to help save on the gas bill. I love the tractor and the FEL and the BH. This thing has paid for itself with no problem. The BH has been a real benefit. I still mow my lawn which takes me about 1.5 hours with a regular push mower. I only have 2.3 acres but I am glad for the power and the size and wish often I had even more lift power. I would not downsize at all. The thing would drive up a rock wall if could have the traction and not fall. I have purchased a Woodland Mills chipper which still sits in the box and an Igland 3501 winch for it as well which I have not had time to use. I have a set of pallat forks which also have a grapple setup. This tractor is so handy I do not know what I would do without it. So I would be one to say there is a benefit in going as big as you can. You wont be dissapointed by going as big as you can afford. By the way I'm almost 62 and am the managing director of a German subsidiary with the US and Canada as our specific market so that takes the major portion of my time.
> 
> I agree with others, go out and look at the tractors, try them out. It is the best way to get a feel. By the way, my JD990 is really a Yanmar through and through. The whole tractor was made by Yanmar, not just parts of it. Yanmar tractors are excellent tractors and their diesel engines are some of the most fuel efficient in the industry. One time before I bought this tractor I was sitting with a Kubota salesman at a dealership and he said he wished that Kubota engines were as fuel efficient as the Yanmar engines. Yanmar is over 100 years old. Go out and look around and try them out. Bring your wife and let her try it out as well. You cannot do wrong in doing so.



The 990 is a great tractor by reputation and has held its resale value well. I couldn’t find one when I was shopping. And in hindsight that was good as it doesn’t have quite the lift capacity for much of what I do - greater than 24” diameter hardwood stems. For most, it should have more than enough capacity. I owned its little brother from the first series years ago - a 750, I wish I still had it. 

Ron


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## bthom70 (Jan 20, 2022)

holeycow said:


> I think the Kioti powertrain warranty is far, far longer than the bobcat one. like 6 years unlimited hours vs 2 years 1500hrs. Wth?
> 
> there's that..


Yanmar is 10yr / 3,000hrs
Mahindra 7yr / 3,000hrs
Kinda odd the Bobcat tractors are so low, seems they copied and pasted info from other commercial equipment.


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## rancher2 (Jan 20, 2022)

husky455rancher I would stay away from the subcompact. Spend more once and be down with it. I just don't see a first time tractor buyer spending 6,000 to 10,000 for a backhoe attachment. I had a three point back hoe for years around the farm and never used it enough to have it so I sold it. When I need a backhoe for a job I hire it or rent a mini ex. Give the Kubota L2501 HST with FEL a good look. No DPF and a good sized tractor. Make sure the FEL has the skid steer quick tach system so if you want to add forks or a grapple later it no problem. I almost bought one last summer and ended up with a Kubota MX-6000. I looked at the other brands and Kubota just stood out. My big tractors are green.


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## ericm979 (Jan 20, 2022)

I got a used Branson backhoe for my Branson from my dealer for about half what a new one would have cost. It's been useful at times but of the implements I have it's given the least value per dollar. When I need a backhoe nothing else well do, but I don't need one that often. The other day I dug a couple hundred pound rock out of the garden with it and dug out a couple stumps and some century old buried pipes. But it sat for 4 months before that.

It's not nearly as easy to run as a mini ex. The controls are much harder to use than electric over hydraulic ones on a good mini. At first I was totally useless. It's taken some hydraulic mods and 20 or so hours to get to where I am halfway competent for a homeowner. A contractor would laugh but I get it done eventually. On the mini I could do stuff right away. With the tractor you have to get off the BH and onto the tractor operator's station to move it where with the ex you just pick up the blade and drive. On the other hand it takes 15 minutes to put it on the tractor. For a rental that's just the phone call to set it up then there's the hour+ round trip into town and hitching up a trailer and another hour+ trip to return it.


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## planB (Jan 20, 2022)

Check kubota they will give you a tractor with 0 money down and like 3% financing for 84 months I believe. My ex gf and I walked in and walked out with a bx tractor you probably want to go next size up. Definitely spend the money for the hydro trans trust me


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## Bearcreek (Jan 20, 2022)

pdqdl said:


> No, no, no. Those are just wheel loaders. Tractors are a different machine entirely. Even a small skid steer would offer a great deal more versatility.


They are wheel loaders, yes, but they will work circles around a skid steer, especially a small skid steer, when it comes to moving wood. They'll drive through, over and around more while carrying more weight with more stability than any small skid steer, all while doing far less ground damage. The only thing that skid steers do better than those Kubota wheel loaders is dirt work. You are right about them not being cheap though.


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## Sawdust Man (Jan 20, 2022)

When I was tractor shopping I was going to buy a backhoe attachment, but got to thinking that for the 9k they wanted for the backhoe I could just buy a used backhoe. l ended up getting an Allmand tlb535 loader backhoe for 8k delivered, it's a much heavier bh than the 9k unit I was looking at to boot.
So I saved 1k, and now have a backup machine when I need it.


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## MMG (Jan 20, 2022)

Dont forget about the 3pt sizes. A cat 1 or 2 3pt on your tractor will have the most options for implements. A cat 0 will have the least. Branson makes a good little tractor and you can get a larger chassis with a smaller engine for less money. I bought a 4720 in 2004 (47hp) but they had the same tractor chassis down to a 28hp for quite a bit less money. The 28 would do everything the 47 did except make HP to the PTO. The bigger chassis gives you weight and stability. It was a cat 1 3pnt. Hyrdo remotes are a must as well as skid steer compatible FEL. If a third function hydro is available, get it. Makes grapple work much easier.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 20, 2022)

I called the dealer who sells yanmar. I talked to him for 45 minutes. He seemed like a good guy. I told him what I was looking to do and I asked his opinion of the subcompact vs the compact. In his opinion he thinks the sub compact will work great for what I want to do. He sent me a couple pics that customers have sent him and it looked good to me. He also encouraged me to check out all the dealers and see what one I personally like. I told him I’m going to try to go check some out Friday or Saturday. The Massey 1725m is $17212 and the sa 424 was 24k. The Massey with the backhoe is $22,804. The yanmar costs more around here I guess lol.


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## GeeVee (Jan 21, 2022)

Bearcreek said:


> They are wheel loaders, yes, but they will work circles around a skid steer, especially a small skid steer, when it comes to moving wood. They'll drive through, over and around more while carrying more weight with more stability than any small skid steer, all while doing far less ground damage. The only thing that skid steers do better than those Kubota wheel loaders is dirt work. You are right about them not being cheap though.


Bearcreek? You must be referring to a skid steer with wheels, not a rubber tracked skid steer....? I generally refer to mine as a Compact Track Loader, and the old 763 Bobcat skid steer, a Skid steer..... I didn't scroll back to see what PDQL was saying no to, but, a wheel loader isn;t going to have a 3ph or rear PTO either. 

The ancient 763 rubber tired skid steer was worthless in my Hammock land, just as soon as you drove far enough for the wheels to make one complete revolution, the bar tread tires were loaded with mud and you had zero traction, with no load. The giant cat 956 wheel loader i had for an extended loan, faired only slightly better, but was seriously hard to get unstuck, being about 30,000 lbs.....


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## sb47 (Jan 21, 2022)

chipper1 said:


> While I agree with much of your post, I have to disagree about the hydro trans. I drove truck for 20 yrs and hauled heavy for many of them. Most the trucks I drove were 13-18 speed, while I am not challenged at all driving a stick on a tractor; I'd rather not for a machine that is to do work in small areas, if you are out tilling large plots of land there may be some advantage.
> 
> It's worth it, you will thank yourself if you get it, if you are using it in tighter places.
> @farmer steve any thoughts on hydro vs manual.
> ...


I prefer a manual transmission over a hydro static all day long. I don't like having to keep my foot on the pedal to make it go. I like putting in in gear and letting out the clutch and not having to have my foot on a peddle. Hydro's are noisy and wine like they are in a constant bind.


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## GeeVee (Jan 21, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> I called the dealer who sells yanmar. I talked to him for 45 minutes. He seemed like a good guy. I told him what I was looking to do and I asked his opinion of the subcompact vs the compact. In his opinion he thinks the sub compact will work great for what I want to do. He sent me a couple pics that customers have sent him and it looked good to me. He also encouraged me to check out all the dealers and see what one I personally like. I told him I’m going to try to go check some out Friday or Saturday. The Massey 1725m is $17212 and the sa 424 was 24k. The Massey with the backhoe is $22,804. The yanmar costs more around here I guess lol.


The middle red picture is a cutie subcompact, but I'd seriously check if i needed a BH at all. Infrequent use is like a anchor- literally. Only, PERHAPS, if you had a little thumb on it to load the rounds or bolts onto a cutting/splitting deck or table, but once you've dug every hole, and ditch on your land, what else would you use it for? You afre getting a FEL, so you dont need a BH to pick up a bolt. A BH is a one trick pony, and that show gets old when you've seen it once. 

My reason for posting your reply is not to denigrate the BH. Its to check the tire choice. I'm not so much a fan of the wide low profile, even if they had some agressive tread. I prefer a tall R1 Tread on my ag tractor- as much because my own land is prone to have clayey sand, and when through the top 1-2 feet, you find Clay and Gumbo. The mud will load up those on the red one, as soon as you drive over it, and the machine really has no ground clearance for traversing the standing water. or through the mud slurry I make when I drive through it repeatedly.

Picture 2 is your tires on the red cutie.


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## peterr (Jan 21, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> I called the dealer who sells yanmar. I talked to him for 45 minutes. He seemed like a good guy. I told him what I was looking to do and I asked his opinion of the subcompact vs the compact. In his opinion he thinks the sub compact will work great for what I want to do. He sent me a couple pics that customers have sent him and it looked good to me. He also encouraged me to check out all the dealers and see what one I personally like. I told him I’m going to try to go check some out Friday or Saturday. The Massey 1725m is $17212 and the sa 424 was 24k. The Massey with the backhoe is $22,804. The yanmar costs more around here I guess lol.


Woodbury Tractor, sells Yanmar too, Robert (owner) is well liked. Peter in Roxbury


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## husky455rancher (Jan 21, 2022)

GeeVee said:


> The middle red picture is a cutie subcompact, but I'd seriously check if i needed a BH at all. Infrequent use is like a anchor- literally. Only, PERHAPS, if you had a little thumb on it to load the rounds or bolts onto a cutting/splitting deck or table, but once you've dug every hole, and ditch on your land, what else would you use it for? You afre getting a FEL, so you dont need a BH to pick up a bolt. A BH is a one trick pony, and that show gets old when you've seen it once.
> 
> My reason for posting your reply is not to denigrate the BH. Its to check the tire choice. I'm not so much a fan of the wide low profile, even if they had some agressive tread. I prefer a tall R1 Tread on my ag tractor- as much because my own land is prone to have clayey sand, and when through the top 1-2 feet, you find Clay and Gumbo. The mud will load up those on the red one, as soon as you drive over it, and the machine really has no ground clearance for traversing the standing water. or through the mud slurry I make when I drive through it repeatedly.
> 
> ...


Yeah that’s a little sub compact Massey.


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## fields_mj (Jan 21, 2022)

Bearcreek said:


> They are wheel loaders, yes, but they will work circles around a skid steer, especially a small skid steer, when it comes to moving wood. They'll drive through, over and around more while carrying more weight with more stability than any small skid steer, all while doing far less ground damage. The only thing that skid steers do better than those Kubota wheel loaders is dirt work. You are right about them not being cheap though.


I would actually disagree with this statement. I've worked a few disaster relief sights where we were cleaning up downed trees after F4 and F5 tornadoes. We had tractors with loaders and grapples, tracked skid steers with grapples, and track hoes all working side by side. The track hoes were the fastest tools for picking apart the trees from the brush simply due to their lift capacity and articulation capability. As far as moving logs and brush, the tractors couldn't even come close to keeping up to the skid steers. The skid steers could move bigger loads, move them faster and farther, and they could articulate around obstacles a lot easier and fit into tighter places. Now dollar for dollar, the tractors were WAY more cost effective.


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## Bearcreek (Jan 21, 2022)

GeeVee said:


> Bearcreek? You must be referring to a skid steer with wheels, not a rubber tracked skid steer....? I generally refer to mine as a Compact Track Loader, and the old 763 Bobcat skid steer, a Skid steer..... I didn't scroll back to see what PDQL was saying no to, but, a wheel loader isn;t going to have a 3ph or rear PTO either.
> 
> The ancient 763 rubber tired skid steer was worthless in my Hammock land, just as soon as you drove far enough for the wheels to make one complete revolution, the bar tread tires were loaded with mud and you had zero traction, with no load. The giant cat 956 wheel loader i had for an extended loan, faired only slightly better, but was seriously hard to get unstuck, being about 30,000 lbs.....


PDQL was talking about the Kubota R420 or R520 wheel loaders and comparing them to a small skid steer. The R520 weighs about 8000 lbs., the R420 6700 lbs. I own an R410, the model that was replaced by the R420. I have used all manner of skid steers extensively, of all sizes, both wheeled and tracked. (As you point out, many folks don't refer to the tracked machines as "skid steers", but rather as track loaders or some other term). My R410 will go places carrying heavy weight where you couldn't begin to go with any wheeled skid steer or track loader. If you've got uneven ground, hills, snow/ice, mud etc. to deal with, one of these Kubota wheel loaders is awesome. Skid steers or track loaders can be better for grading and general dirt work, but for what I use it for, (moving logs, steel, buildings, random heavy things, etc around) I'll take my R410 over any skid steer/track loader. 

Yes, it does not have a 3 pt hitch or PTO. I was primarily responding to PDQL's comparison to a small skid steer, and it sort of sounds like the OP mostly wants a machine for loader work. He has not said, that I've seen, what his budget is, so this may all be a moot point.


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## Bearcreek (Jan 21, 2022)

fields_mj said:


> I would actually disagree with this statement. I've worked a few disaster relief sights where we were cleaning up downed trees after F4 and F5 tornadoes. We had tractors with loaders and grapples, tracked skid steers with grapples, and track hoes all working side by side.


I think you're confused about what I was referring to. I was talking about the Kubota R series wheel loaders, which are not tractors, not even close.


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## fields_mj (Jan 21, 2022)

Get the heaviest machine you can store that will fit into the location want to use it in. Pretty much every tractor on the market can lift more than it can safely carry on any kind of grade, so keep that in mind. Especially if you happen to have to make ANY kind of a turn while on even a slight grade. 

Unless you're picking up a machine for practically free, 4wd is a requirement for a FEL. 

Quick attach is an absolute MUST have. If the machine doesn't have it, BUY the kit the same day you buy the tractor. As far as bucket width, make sure it's a tad wider than your wheels. If it's much wider, you won't have enough weight/traction to make it dig. If it's narrower, you won't be clearing a wide enough swath to fit your machine into for the next pass. 

Buy used if you can, but MAKE SURE its configured the way you want it to. Switching from turf to ag tires is EXTREMELY expensive. 

Don't worry about HP much unless you might want to run a bush hog. Minimum power requirements for a bush hog is about 5hp at the engine for every foot of width on the mower, but 6 hp per foot is better. If you get a bush hog, buy an old used one. They're only a few hundred dollars that way, and they last forever until you run one over a stump. Then it's likely destroyed regardless of its age.


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## Hermio (Jan 21, 2022)

rwoods said:


> If you plan to lift logs, then use this calculator: https://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl?calculator=log_weight. I have found it very helpful. Also learn your loader's capacities. It will pick up a whole more below hood height than full height. Don't start out big. Get a feel for it and your tractor's tipping points which will vary with the load's weight, position and length, your speed, the terrain, etc. I treat mine pretty much like a tree - it will try to kill you.
> 
> Ron


Amen to that. Since a log can be long, if the center of gravity is not near the center of the loader, it can cause the tractor to tip sideways even with a log within the loader weight limits. (Been there, done that).


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## Bearcreek (Jan 21, 2022)

Hermio said:


> Amen to that. Since a log can be long, if the center of gravity is not near the center of the loader, it can cause the tractor to tip sideways even with a log within the loader weight limits. (Been there, done that).


Yup. Tractors are designed to pull and lift loads from the back, not the front. That's why the front axle pivots, rather than the rear. You can get lots done with a FEL on one, especially if it's a bigger one, but it'll never work as well as a machine designed from the ground up to lift from the front, like a wheel loader or skid steer.


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## rwoods (Jan 21, 2022)

Kubota R410



Some of the euro manufacturers have telescopic booms. I would love to have one, but most are $$$.



Ron


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## holeycow (Jan 21, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> I called the dealer who sells yanmar. I talked to him for 45 minutes. He seemed like a good guy. I told him what I was looking to do and I asked his opinion of the subcompact vs the compact. In his opinion he thinks the sub compact will work great for what I want to do. He sent me a couple pics that customers have sent him and it looked good to me. He also encouraged me to check out all the dealers and see what one I personally like. I told him I’m going to try to go check some out Friday or Saturday. The Massey 1725m is $17212 and the sa 424 was 24k. The Massey with the backhoe is $22,804. The yanmar costs more around here I guess lol.


Too. Small.


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## pdqdl (Jan 21, 2022)

Bearcreek said:


> They are wheel loaders, yes, but they will work circles around a skid steer, especially a small skid steer, when it comes to moving wood. They'll drive through, over and around more while carrying more weight with more stability than any small skid steer, all while doing far less ground damage. The only thing that skid steers do better than those Kubota wheel loaders is dirt work. You are right about them not being cheap though.



Yes. For loader work in general, an articulating loader is hard to beat. Given a 10k weight limit, it can be done, however: Bobcat A300. The best of both worlds, it can skid steer, or 4-wheel steer, with a flip of the switch. But none of the aforementioned machines will outperform an agricultural tractor at pulling a load or navigating rough terrain, if limited to the same weight class. Don't even think about putting an articulating loader on a steep hill and working it. That's a recipe for a roll-over.

There are no other classes of machine that can put as much power to the ground or an attachment, given the very reliable PTO on the tractors and the superior hitches they have. If you have a 4,000lb tractor, it will do more work per $ of investment than any other more specialized machine. Not better at all things... Just more versatility and value.


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## Robpm (Jan 21, 2022)

rwoods said:


> he 990 is a great tractor by reputation and has held its resale value well. I couldn’t find one when I was shopping. And in hindsight that was good as it doesn’t have quite the lift capacity for much of what I do - greater than 24” diameter hardwood stems. For most, it should have more than enough capacity. I owned its little brother from the first series years ago - a 750, I wish I still had it.
> 
> Ron


I have lifted a lot of hard wood stems over 24" in diameter, Red and White Oak, White Ash, Beech, Maple with no problem along with some pretty big rocks as wells. I have an Artillian fork frame which is real light weight. The frame is 73 lbs and the forks are 48" and my guess is that they are close to 100 lbs each so we are talking under 300# for the fork. The spec on the 300CX with the 4005 which was the same as the 990, they just changed the model # and it had a 40 amp alternator instead of a 20 amp alternator, (mine was a late model 990 so a lot of the parts are the exact same as what are on the 4005) as follows from this site https://tractorsinfo.net/john-deere-4005/

*John Deere 4005 Attachments*​

Loader type:John Deere 300CXWeight:856 lbs [388 kg]Height (to pin):103.9 inches [263 cm]Dump reach:21.7 inches [55 cm]Dump angle:45Rollback angle:27Breakout force (at pin):3015 lbs [1367 kg]Breakout force (at 500mm):2158 lbs [978 kg]Lift to full height (at pin):1256 lbs [569 kg]Lift to full height (at 500mm):887 lbs [402 kg]Lift to 1.5m (at pin):1797 lbs [815 kg]Lift to 1.5m (at 500mm):1395 lbs [632 kg]Raise time to height:3.57 sBucket dump time:3.04 sLowering time:2.11 sRollback time:1.79 s

If you look at the earlier models of the 990 they used the older 430 FEL and its specs at lift to full height were about the same but they were better at 1.5 M lift compared to the later models which were sold with the 300CX. I am going to guess there was some better leverage with the 430 due to its design compared to the 300CX. They sloped the 300CX. Of course it could be cylinder size. I have thought at times to replace the cylinders with a little larger ones and that would give me some more lift as well. I do not like the idea of messing with the hydraulic pressure although I have toyed with the idea before since it is not too hard to do.

*John Deere 990 Attachments*​

*Loader:*Loader type:John Deere 430Height (to pin):101.9 inches [258 cm]Clearance, dumped bucket:78.3 inches [198 cm]Dump reach:25.3 inches [64 cm]Dump angle:45Reach at ground:51.2 inches [130 cm]Rollback at ground:30Rollback, raised:64Breakout force (at pin):3,285 lbs [1490 kg]Breakout force (at 500mm):2,306 lbs [1046 kg]Lift to full height (at pin):1,102 lbs [499 kg]Lift to full height (at 500mm):915 lbs [415 kg]Lift to 1.5m (at pin):1,943 lbs [881 kg]Lift to 1.5m (at 500mm):1,724 lbs [782 kg]Bucket width:61 inches [154 cm]Raise time to height:3.9 sBucket dump time:1.8 sLowering time:3.0 sRollback time:2.2 s


If you look at just the 300CX loader which was also used for the 3x20 series CUT's the capacity was much better as these different site specs









Specifications for a John Deere 300CX Loader


John Deere engineers designed the 300CX front-end loader to fit a wide range of its compact tractor models. The 300CX fits several models that went out of production shortly before its introduction and most of the JD compact tractors in the 30 to 40 horsepower range in production as of 2010.




www.gardenguides.com









John Deere 300CX Loader Specifications


John Deere 300CX Front End Loader Specifications



tractorgearbox.com





Lifting Capacity​The 300CX will lift 1,122 lbs. to a maximum height of 102 inches, measured at the bucket edge. Measured from the pivot pins, the capacity is 1,598 lbs. The first rating is a more realistic measure of what you can expect from the loader, while the pivot pin rating relates more to gross lifting power. With a height limit of 59 inches, those capacities increase to 1,649 lbs at the bucket edge and 2,125 lbs. at the pivot pins.

and

John Deere 300CX Front End Loader Specs​ 







Compatible Tractor Models

Tractor Model .......... John Deere 970, 990, 3520, 4005, 4300, 4400, 4410
Front tires .......... 25x8.50-14.6 PR R4
Rear tires .......... 15.00-19.6 PR R4
Wheelbase .......... 1727 mm (68 in.)
Hydraulic System Rated flow .......... 32.5 L/min. (8.6 gpm)
Maximum pressure .......... 17.238 MPA (2500 psi)

John Deere 300CX Loader

Loader Model .......... JD 300CX Loader
Leveling System .......... Non-Self Leveling

Bucket

Width .......... 1550 mm (61 in.)
Length .......... 633 mm (25 in.)
Mass .......... 93.8 kg (206.8 lb.)

Cycle Times (Seconds)

Loader raising time .......... 3.56 seconds
Loader lowering time .......... 2.1 seconds
Bucket dumping time/regen .......... 2.96/1.21 seconds
Bucket rollback time .......... 1.75 seconds

Lift Height (Maximum)

To pivot pin .......... 2593 mm (102 in.)
With level bucket .......... 2388 mm (94 in.)
With bucket dumped .......... 2024 mm (79.6 in.)

John Deere 300CX Loader Dimensions

Overall Length .......... 3216 mm (126.6 in.)
Dipping Depth .......... 143 mm (5.6 in.)

Reach

At max. lift height .......... 562 mm (22 in.)
With bucket on ground .......... 1489 mm (58.6 in.)

Angles (Maximum)

Max. dump angle .......... 41.1 degrees
Max. dump angle at ground .......... 128 degrees
Max. rollback angle .......... 31 degrees
Rollback angle at full height .......... 119 degrees

JD 300CX Loader Lift Capacity

To max. height at pivot pin .......... 725 kg (1598 lb.)
To max. height 500 mm forward of pivot point .......... 509 kg (1122 lb.)
To 1.5 m (59 in.) at pivot pin .......... 964 kg (2125 lb.)
To 1.5 m (59 in.) 500 mm forward of pivot point .......... 748 kg (1649 lb.)

Breakout Force

At pivot pin .......... 14800 N (3327 lb-ft.)
At 500 mm forward of pivot point .......... 10750 N (2416 lb-ft.)

Bucket Rollback Force

At max. height .......... 7950 N (1787 lb-ft.)
At 1.5 m (59 in.) lift height .......... 13230 N (2974 lb-ft.)
At ground level line .......... 13730 N (3087 lb-ft.)



​


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## Robpm (Jan 21, 2022)

GeeVee said:


> The middle red picture is a cutie subcompact, but I'd seriously check if i needed a BH at all. Infrequent use is like a anchor- literally. Only, PERHAPS, if you had a little thumb on it to load the rounds or bolts onto a cutting/splitting deck or table, but once you've dug every hole, and ditch on your land, what else would you use it for? You afre getting a FEL, so you dont need a BH to pick up a bolt. A BH is a one trick pony, and that show gets old when you've seen it once.
> 
> My reason for posting your reply is not to denigrate the BH. Its to check the tire choice.


I know your reason to post was about the tires. However as with all of us, we have our differing opinions, I differ with you on the BH and your statements. I continue to find all kinds of benefits with having the BH. For one thing it makes great ballast for FEL work. My well recently had a problem and it made a great tool for digging up the well and saved me a good amount of money. I use it to retrieve trees taken down or fallen down. I do have a mechanical thumb on it as well which can come in handy for picking up large rocks which I have an overabundance of. I was able to dig out a new drainage system for my gutters. I helped my neighbor dig out his area where he wanted to pour a concrete pad for his shed he wanted to build. He is a civil engineer. I did the same for where I put up a Carolina Car Port building to house my 990. I helped another neighbor dig out a whole area behind his house to put in a new brick patio and the list goes on. If you own any property I don't think you will ever run out of things to do with a BH. Having said that if you do not want to spend the money, because they are not inexpensive, and you are happy with subbing out the work or renting a track hoe or something like that then yes you can forget the BH. For me having it available when I need it for anything is a great benefit that I am thankful to have. As with the 990 there are many times I wish I had even more power but I am thankful that it was on the tractor when I purchased it. It beats using a shovel any day of the week.


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## rwoods (Jan 21, 2022)

Robpm said:


> I have lifted a lot of hard wood stems over 24" in diameter, Red and White Oak, White Ash, Beech, Maple with no problem along with some pretty big rocks as wells. I have an Artillian fork frame which is real light weight. The frame is 73 lbs and the forks are 48" and my guess is that they are close to 100 lbs each so we are talking under 300# for the fork. The spec on the 300CX with the 4005 which was the same as the 990, they just changed the model # and it had a 40 amp alternator instead of a 20 amp alternator, (mine was a late model 990 so a lot of the parts are the exact same as what are on the 4005) as follows from this site https://tractorsinfo.net/john-deere-4005/
> 
> *John Deere 4005 Attachments*​
> 
> ...


The 460 loader on my 4710 at full height is 2330# at pin and 1705# 24” out vs the 300cx at 1256# and 887# at 500mm (approximately 20” out). Pretty much double the capacity. That said, the 300cx will take care of most here.

As I said the 990 and it’s kin have a great reputation. Rental yards rent them here.

Ron


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## sb47 (Jan 21, 2022)

fields_mj said:


> I would actually disagree with this statement. I've worked a few disaster relief sights where we were cleaning up downed trees after F4 and F5 tornadoes. We had tractors with loaders and grapples, tracked skid steers with grapples, and track hoes all working side by side. The track hoes were the fastest tools for picking apart the trees from the brush simply due to their lift capacity and articulation capability. As far as moving logs and brush, the tractors couldn't even come close to keeping up to the skid steers. The skid steers could move bigger loads, move them faster and farther, and they could articulate around obstacles a lot easier and fit into tighter places. Now dollar for dollar, the tractors were WAY more cost effective.


I agree, a track loader will run circles around any wheeled tractor. Both in lift capacity and maneuverability.


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## Robpm (Jan 21, 2022)

rwoods said:


> The 460 loader on my 4710 at full height is 2330# at pin and 1705# 24” out vs the 300cx at 1256# and 887# at 500mm (approximately 20” out). Pretty much double the capacity. That said, the 300cx will take care of most here.
> 
> As I said the 990 and it’s kin have a great reputation. Rental yards rent them here.
> 
> Ron


Ron, I agree, you have almost double the lift power and I would sure love to have as much as you do. I could have used it a couple of times. But I make due in those instances. As I said I have toyed with putting some bigger cylinders on the 300CX to give me a little more lift. The front end of the tractor can handle it and the original 430 loader had more grunt at 59" on the 990 than the 300CX has. Again the specs on the 300CX are much better on the 3x20 series than on the 990. I am going to guess due to pressure being higher on the 3x20 series.


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## ericm979 (Jan 21, 2022)

sb47 said:


> I prefer a manual transmission over a hydro static all day long. I don't like having to keep my foot on the pedal to make it go. I like putting in in gear and letting out the clutch and not having to have my foot on a peddle.



Most newer HST tractors have "cruise control" which locks the HST in position so you can remove your foot from the pedal.


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## Snowman59 (Jan 21, 2022)

Good Works Tractors just posted an interesting video yesterday pointing out pitfalls to avoid when buying a tractor as well as explaining who manufactures what brands of equipment. Here is the link:


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## pdqdl (Jan 21, 2022)

fields_mj said:


> I would actually disagree with this statement. ... As far as moving logs and brush, the tractors couldn't even come close to keeping up to the skid steers. The skid steers could move bigger loads, move them faster and farther, and they could articulate around obstacles a lot easier and fit into tighter places. Now dollar for dollar, the tractors were WAY more cost effective.





sb47 said:


> I agree, a track loader will run circles around any wheeled tractor. Both in lift capacity and maneuverability.



As with all things, that depends on the situation. 

Skid steers excel at tight quarters, and their loaders are much stronger than the tractors. If you put the machines in a situation where the travel time is greater, that conventional tractor will eat a skid steer's lunch and laugh at them on the way.

There is no way my A300 bobcat can move as much material as my 5603 John Deere tractor, given a 100 yard or more travel distance, especially if the terrain is real bumpy. Moving brush (using the same quick-tach grapple as the tractor) from a back yard out to load the truck in the street up front? Bobcat will _*slaughter*_ the tractor.

Just evaluate your needs and goals, then get the best machine for that job. The very best machine in the world in the wrong spot is a big mistake.


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## Bearcreek (Jan 21, 2022)

pdqdl said:


> Yes. For loader work in general, an articulating loader is hard to beat. Given a 10k weight limit, it can be done, however: Bobcat A300. The best of both worlds, it can skid steer, or 4-wheel steer, with a flip of the switch. But none of the aforementioned machines will outperform an agricultural tractor at pulling a load or navigating rough terrain, if limited to the same weight class. Don't even think about putting an articulating loader on a steep hill and working it. That's a recipe for a roll-over.


I live in the Clearwater mountains of North Idaho. The terrain is rugged, uneven and steep. My Kubota R410 will do things on a steep hillside that a comparable sized 4x4 tractor with loader would not even be close to capable of. I'm not guessing here. I have used all of the machines in question extensively. If the articulated design was so inherently unstable, skidders wouldn't all be designed that way. I'm talking about loader work here, not farm tractor tasks involving a PTO or 3 point hitch. Obviously the tractor works best for that because it was designed for it. Tractors are designed to pull and lift loads from the back.


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## chipper1 (Jan 21, 2022)

sb47 said:


> I prefer a manual transmission over a hydro static all day long. I don't like having to keep my foot on the pedal to make it go. I like putting in in gear and letting out the clutch and not having to have my foot on a peddle. Hydro's are noisy and wine like they are in a constant bind.


Oh, okay.
Did you read my post.


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## Cliff R (Jan 21, 2022)

I wouldn't want a manual transmission compact tractor for loader work just like I wouldn't want a hydro trans small tractor for plow or pulling a disk all day work. Shuttle shift manual trans are OK, but you still have to find the brakes when you push the clutch in. On a hydro unit they engine brake when you back of the hydro pedal, excellent feature, especially on hilly ground like I have here.

I mow with a JD X740 and love it. I'd never go back to a manual transmission mower either. The ONLY time I ever use the brake pedal is parking it when I finished for the day.

Getting ready to drop the hammer on a small compact tractor. Right now I have the following on my list. None of them are perfect, they just don't make a machine that has all the items I'm wanting but these will all work or can be made to work. 

Kubota L2501, Kubota LX2601, John Deere 3032E, and Yanmar SA424. I was looking at the Kubota B2601 as well, but took it off my list. Same with the JD 1025R and 2025R.

I haven't tested the 3032E yet, but non liking the brake operated diff lock but could probably get used to it, no mid PTO option. 

The Kubota L2501 also lacks any ability (no mid PTO) for making a mower out of it, plus it's too heavy anyhow. It would make the best loader of the ones listed, it's a beast! 

The LX2601 is lighter and mid PTO.

The SA424 amazed me what it could do for the size of the machine. The place selling them had a rental unit on site and I spent some time with it. No ballast, just loaded tires and it was very stable even with a full bucket of gravel. Not the best looking in the bunch but for sure a very capable tractor for the size and weight. The hydraulics were smooth and quick compared to the Kobota models and it has 1200' lift capacity. The hydro was also quieter and much more "solid" when applied than the Kubota's. The 3rd range on the L2501 is next to useless unless you have an empty bucket, a slight downhill grade and a tail wind. Another negative for the SA424 is no skid-steer loader mount and the biggest bucket available for their quick mount is 54". I really wanted a 60 or 66" bucket to move firewood to the boiler.

The John Deere is the best looking of the bunch, but also considerably more expensive and the attachments for the loader are way up there in price as well.

Another BIG plus for Yanmar is the financing, zero for 84 months till Feb 22nd.......decisions, decisions.......


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## rwoods (Jan 21, 2022)

To each his own on the hydro vs. gear; however, I have a gear tractor with a power reverser that with the flip of a lever you can go from N to F or R or from F to R or vice versa. It is just as smooth as manually clutching and sometimes better since it doesn't get tired or distracted. I would hazard to say on level ground handling material with a FEL it is easier on the operator than a hydro, but I don't do that type of work. It uses a hydraulic clutch and I have experienced three drawbacks - you can't roll the tractor off to start, it won't hold a tractor in place when parked, and if the tractor is seriously low on hydraulic fluid the clutch will disengage on a forward slope (or trailer ramp) with gravity sending you backwards then engaging when the terrain levels out taking you forward- a real recipe to flip. I don't know who all offers this option or how old the design is. My Dad had a 1958 JD 420 that had a reversing lever. He said it was designed for loader work. We didn't have a loader, but he loved it because it reversed the pto as well which allowed him to unscrew a stuck post hole digger. It did not change the mechanical bond of the clutch, so it didn't have the drawbacks I mentioned. I would love to have for play an old but pristine small JD dozer with a reverser.

Ron


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## pdqdl (Jan 21, 2022)

Bearcreek said:


> I live in the Clearwater mountains of North Idaho. The terrain is rugged, uneven and steep. My Kubota R410 will do things on a steep hillside that a comparable sized 4x4 tractor with loader would not even be close to capable of. I'm not guessing here. I have used all of the machines in question extensively. If the articulated design was so inherently unstable, skidders wouldn't all be designed that way. I'm talking about loader work here, not farm tractor tasks involving a PTO or 3 point hitch. Obviously the tractor works best for that because it was designed for it. Tractors are designed to pull and lift loads from the back.



I can't agree with that. Firstly, how many tractors or loaders have you personally rolled or seen rolled? I've got 3 different occasions under my belt, as I have had lots of helpful employees. Done one myself.
Skidders, on the other hand, are built specifically for steep terrain, as are LCG (low-center-gravity) tractors. Different horses for different courses.

Ag tractors generally have wheels that can be moved further outboard for much greater stability on slopes. I don't know of any loaders with that feature.

The user manual of a Kubota R410 says this:
"Do not go up or down a 30° or steeper hill. Otherwise, the machine may skid sideways or turn on its side. If the ground is ungraded or soft, limit the slope below 15°"

You will also find that when a slope rating can be found for an ag tractor, it too comes in at 15°, although they are generally not included in the owners manual. I can assure you that I have casually run tractors on 15° slopes, and I have been up to 27° sideways without ever rolling. It was quite scary to pull off, however. 
_Keep in mind I'm talking actual degrees, not % slope.

_

Given that an articulated wheel loader shifts its center of gravity sideways when it turns, I don't see how you figure they are more capable of turns sideways on a steep hill. Eventually, you are going to need to turn the wrong way, center of gravity will shift downhill, and over you go! YES. A skilled operator can avoid that scenario by turning uphill and backing into position.

Here is a riddle for you: in what position on a hill is an ag tractor most likely to roll?


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## husky455rancher (Jan 21, 2022)

The dealer I spoke with who sells the yanmar and Massey actually dosent have anything in stock so I didn’t go. He said he should have a Massey with a hoe at the end of the month I can check out. The yanmar he’s not really sure. I’m gonna check around tonight and see if there’s any dealers I should go check tomorrow.


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## sb47 (Jan 21, 2022)

Each type has it's pro's and con's. Once you decide what you want, then consider how close is the nearest dealer and shop. Nothing worse then having to drive a long way just for parts or support should you need it.


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## Bearcreek (Jan 21, 2022)

pdqdl said:


> I can't agree with that.


A man's entitled to his opinion. 


pdqdl said:


> Firstly, how many tractors or loaders have you personally rolled or seen rolled?


I have yet to roll one myself. Guess I'm either good or lucky.  Seen a few tractors rolled, and a skidder.


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## esshup (Jan 22, 2022)

sb47 said:


> I prefer a manual transmission over a hydro static all day long. I don't like having to keep my foot on the pedal to make it go. I like putting in in gear and letting out the clutch and not having to have my foot on a peddle. Hydro's are noisy and wine like they are in a constant bind.


If I'm going a constant speed, the JD hydro has cruise control. So, I just get it going as fast as I need, then push a button, then take my foot off the go pedal.


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## Ryan'smilling (Jan 22, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> The dealer I spoke with who sells the yanmar and Massey actually dosent have anything in stock so I didn’t go. He said he should have a Massey with a hoe at the end of the month I can check out. The yanmar he’s not really sure. I’m gonna check around tonight and see if there’s any dealers I should go check tomorrow.



One thing to find out about the Masseys is who actually makes that tractor. I know their bigger compacts were made by Iseki, but I'm not sure if that's still the case, or if that's who makes the little ones also. Iseki is also Japanese and they make great tractors, but personally all else being equal I'd rather buy a tractor from the manufacturer rather than a restickered one. I'm mostly thinking about parts in twenty years when I say that.


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## Cliff R (Jan 22, 2022)

I used a compact tractor with a loader once and rolled it. It was a rental used to move topsoil for a weekend. Not really my fault, grew up on a farm using tractors from 25 to 200hp and plenty of loader work. I know not to lift heavy loads high and travel with them. I was dumping a full bucket of topsoil to cover the septic tank, this was back in 2003 when we built this place. Just as I started to lift the bucket to dump the right front tire dropped into a small depression in the ground and I rolled the tractor right over! It happened so fast no time to do anything but tuck and roll when it threw me from the seat. I remember putting PLENTY of distance between me and the machine as it was on a hill at the time. I came up on my feet and turned around to look at the carnage. 

I was lucky, it didn't shut down (must have had the seat switch bypassed or it didn't have one) so I crawled over and turned off the engine. About all that happened was it lost about a cup of hydraulic fluid and busted one of the hazard lights on the rollbar. I took my Dodge diesel and attached it to the rollbar and brought it right back up and finished the job. I was only 43 years old when this happened, just retired from the Military and could whip my weight in Wolverines. If that happened today at 63 the outcome wouldn't be quite the same as I'd have trouble fighting my way out of a wet paper bag!.....LOL..


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## Bill G (Jan 22, 2022)

AGrig06 said:


> Get a John Deere 2755 with a fork, works great for moving bales, I'm sure you could throw a bucket on and go to work! Holy cow it can climb any hill, up/down, or drive on it sideways! The 2755 also goes pretty fast on the road, like 40 I'd say.


WHAT! The 2755 were/are good farm tractors but WAY oversized for what the OP listed as his intended use. The 2755 was sold as a 65Hp tractor and performed at that level. 

As for 40mph that is not even close to reality. When that tractor was sold there were no domestic tractors that I know of that were capable of over about 22-25mph. Now that is no longer true. Go drive a late 1980's tractor at 20mph and then come back and tell us if you soiled your shorts. They were not built for that especially as the steering gets loose.


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## Bill G (Jan 22, 2022)

lone wolf said:


> 40? Thats fast as hell aint it?


Yes it is and UNSAFE in most situations


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## holeycow (Jan 22, 2022)

Bill G said:


> WHAT! The 2755 were/are good farm tractors but WAY oversized for what the OP listed as his intended use. The 2755 was sold as a 65Hp tractor and performed at that level.
> 
> As for 40mph that is not even close to reality. When that tractor was sold there were no domestic tractors that I know of that were capable of over about 22-25mph. Now that is no longer true. Go drive a late 1980's tractor at 20mph and then come back and tell us if you soiled your shorts. They were not built for that especially as the steering gets loose.


17mph. That was the norm. And that was plenty fast enough.


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## gumneck (Jan 22, 2022)

I've got several old tractors that do not have hydro transmissions so I can't really say how great they are or not. I also have a New Holland 2008 T2410 55HP with shuttle shift and electric syncro transmission(High, Med,Low 4 speeds each range). I set the range to what the job needs, place it in the gear I know I'll be using and the rest is no clutching just Forward or Reverse, I've never needed more and I know its rock solid for my needs. 

The best advice is make sure you get a FRONT END Loader regardless of what you get. I would also recommend just going ahead and not leaving the dealer without at least 2 sets of rear remotes. Mine came with one and I told the dealer to put the second on. I regret not getting the 3rd factory set installed now which it would have been easy for them to do and what would another $600 really hurt back 13 years ago on a $23,000 machine...slow learner.

For those pushing for a heavier machine.... they are right on track. If I could have a small CUT I would only because of want not necessarily a need. If you could get a heavier machine and give up the Hydro transmission to get a geared shuttle shift rig IMO you would be better off for what you plan to do and what you may not know you need to do in the future. 

I would save money by NOT getting a mower deck underneath. I say this because a tractor is not a mower, yes it can be used as one. I used a 50' Ford 8N with a 60" Ford finish mower to cut 3acres of yard and 10 acres of grapes for 20 years, it did a fine job. 
Demo'd an Exmark 60" Lazer Z and realized I've been mowing wrong for 20 years...slow learner. Versatility has it's place but if you got alot to mow, get a heavy built zero turn you'll thank me later and probably send me one of your best cool antique saws. Just PM for addy so you're ready!

Finally, get a set of forks with the brick guard and really think about the grapple rake. Mine is a monster and very heavy for my loader but I dont use it when I need to pick up a giant log....takes 5 mins to quick change it over to the forks. The great thing about the heavy grapple is that added weight when pushing through roots for small trees and such IMO helps but you still have to realize your front end loader is not a bull dozer so go easy. 

And I just assumed you had a tractor due to your avatar. Every time I'd read one of your post my wife bust in to see what I'm reading.....your avatar is like a MAGNET.


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## Bill G (Jan 22, 2022)

I have spent the time to read through most of the posts here and many folks have brought up some very valid points. There is no "one size fits all" for anyone so there is not one member that can select the right piece of equipment for someone else. A lot of folks "think" they need this and that when in reality they only want it and do not need it. I am very guilty of that. If I wasn't I would not have well over 500 saws. I have seem the discussion over tractors vrs wheel loaders vrs skidloaders vrs tracked skidloaders. Every one of those has it sweet spot where it performs the best. Not a single one is best at everything. If they were then there would be no need for the others. Some folks cannot see the use in one type because they simple do not need it for what it does well. An example is the mentions of wheel loaders. In my mind a wheel loader should not even enter the conversation. I had never even seen the small ones that Kubota makes. To the people that have a use for them they make perfect sense. In this area a lot of guys have large wheel loaders for loading silage in feeder/mixers. They are the fastest and most efficient method to accomplish the task. To others they cannot see spending over $100,000 on a new tracked skidloader but to those who have a use it makes perfect sense.

Now back to the topic of tractors. There are many types and sizes for one reason and one reason only.........people buy them. If they did not then the manufactures would not produce them. Some say "you do not need a backhoe attachment" Well that is true to those who cannot see the use of it. Tell that to the guy running the business end of a tile spade. 

Not a one of us can say what the OP needs as none of us know what he will use it for. He does not either as he does not have it yet. Who knows how much he will use it. How many of us have bought a tool or machine with the big ideas of using it for all kinds of tasks. Then 2 years down the road it sits collecting dust after doing one or sometimes no jobs. If you do not think you are guilty of that then go ask your spouse or kids. I bet they will have a different opinion. 

As usual a lot of talk has centered around horsepower which very well be the most confusing and lied about rating ever discussed. The horsepower rating manufactures give to their products is almost 100% arbitrary. Yes the mathematical calculation of horsepower is a constant and should be simple but that is not what is used nearly all the time. Take for example the guys racing to the good duck blinds on Lake Odessa with their 300hp outboards. How would that boat engine compare to a 5.9 Cummins in a 1989 Dodge truck? They were rated at 160HP and 400lbs of torque.

Now looking at tractors. Take a look at a JD X330 lawnmower. According to them it is 22HP. How do you think that will compare to their 1023E which they rate at 21.5HP. If horsepower is horsepower then it is a no brainer go get the lawnmower. How would each compare to a 1947 Ford 2N which had a 120 cubic inch engine rated at 12HP? I will tell you not well. Now for those saying I am comparing apples to oranges well I am not. The tractor companies like to throw out horsepower ratings that are wholly misleading. This is not something new at all. For those of you interested at all in tractors you know of the Nebraska Tractor Tests. In 1919 a Nebraska legislator was fed up with the lies claimed by tractor companies. They passed a law that basically required any model of tractor that was to be sold in Nebraska would undergo extensive testing at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln. That began in 1920 and has the been the gold standard of tests since. It is real life testing not influenced by ridiculous claims by manufactures. I cannot speak to what all is tested today but in the past they would run the tractors at varying loads long term. Some tests would be in excess of 50 hours. Of course horsepower was the main thrust but they also checked fuel economy, actual weight, ballasted weight, and others. The two horsepower ratings important for a tractor are drawbar and PTO.

I tried to find some recent Nebraska test results but it appears they have not been testing sub-compact and compact tractors. I looked through the tests done from 2000-2010. Also it appears the smaller tractors they did test were only checked for PTO and not drawbar. Although these are larger tractors then what has been discussed in this thread here are some results. 
2000 Kubota M5700DT 48 drawbar and 52 PTO
2002 Massey 4325 42 drawbar and 54 PTO
2002 CIH JX55 37 drawbar and 45 PTO
2004 New Holland TN60A 38 drawbar and 48 PTO
2005 JD 4320 0 drawbar and 41 PTO I am not sure why drawbar HP was not tested on the JD's
2005 JD 4520 0 drawbar and 46 PTO
2005 JD 4720 0 drawbar and 51 PTO
Now go do a little research and see what those were rated at by the manufacturer.

A lot of useless thoughts.

Bill


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## husky455rancher (Jan 22, 2022)

gumneck said:


> I've got several old tractors that do not have hydro transmissions so I can't really say how great they are or not. I also have a New Holland 2008 T2410 55HP with shuttle shift and electric syncro transmission(High, Med,Low 4 speeds each range). I set the range to what the job needs, place it in the gear I know I'll be using and the rest is no clutching just Forward or Reverse, I've never needed more and I know its rock solid for my needs.
> 
> The best advice is make sure you get a FRONT END Loader regardless of what you get. I would also recommend just going ahead and not leaving the dealer without at least 2 sets of rear remotes. Mine came with one and I told the dealer to put the second on. I regret not getting the 3rd factory set installed now which it would have been easy for them to do and what would another $600 really hurt back 13 years ago on a $23,000 machine...slow learner.
> 
> ...


Yeah I’ve gotten a lot of compliments on it over the years in here.

I was all set to go kioti 2610 or 3510 with the loader. Now I’m considering a subcompact with the backhoe and mechanical thumb and a set of forks. It kinda comes down to sub with the hoe or compact and no hoe. I really can’t swing a compact with a hoe price wise.


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## Bill G (Jan 22, 2022)

Since you are in CT do you plan on trying to move any logs in the winter? I assume so. No matter how much power you have it will not move a matchstick without traction. The type of tire will not help much either. The only way to move anything in snow, ice, or even frozen ground is with tire chains on. No matter what you go with if you are wanting to use it in the winter get good chains. Last week my brother called me up and said he had the skidder running and wanted to know if I wanted to pull some logs up. He showed up a little later and I laughed at him. I said what are you going to pull without chains on. He reply was oh I don't need them on the jobs I am using this machine on. It takes 4hrs to put them on and the main skidder has chains on. I laughed and said OK lets go. There was not anything to skid on the flat so we headed down the bluff. I live on the top of the bluff over the Mississippi River. It is near straight cliffs in many places but I have roads that are not to bad. Well off he goes down one. He stops well before it gets any steepness at all. He realizes he is in trouble and tries to back up the road. Well of course the skidder will not move. We stretch the winch line up the hill to a medium Ash that I was going to cut. Then he pulls himself back up. I drop the Ash and his son backs up to it and grabs it with the grapple. Well that did not go well at all and he dropped the front end in a ditch. Finally get him convinced to just get up the hill aways and winch it. Well that works and eventually we reach the top. The entire process took a long time and my brother says "I don't think we better try anymore today" I look at him and say "well no sh..t" The point of that story is the skidder had all the horsepower needed, the grapple had all the hydraulic power needed, still it could not even move it's own weight. Simple tire chains would have solved the entire issue.

Bill


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## MiserblOF (Jan 22, 2022)

JRM said:


> Frame size is a much bigger factor than hp, IMO. A 30hp B series is no comparison to a 30hp L series. I am referring to the older models - no idea on the nomenclature of the new ones. I personally don't see the value in spending $30k on a compact tractor when one can be had for 1/3 of that and provide years of service, but to each their own.


For traction and size / strength of loader, you are right. But I would submit, just for one example, that the Kubota L2501 is too much tractor for the horsepower. One real hp hog, and one of the main reasons I got a bigger tractor is to run a chipper/shredder or chipper. The deal with chippers is that while you might never chip an 8" log, you want that 8" chipper because of the smaller stuff you can push thru it without having to trim it so much. I went from a 3" gas powered to a 5.5" PTO, that I bought used, and if I live long enough and am able to afford it, will go for an 8" PTO chipper. For that, depending on the brand, my 32 hp at the PTO is either on the low end or not enough. But since I'll never chip an 8" log, low end is enough.


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## Bill G (Jan 22, 2022)

This is another example. I pulled this tree up tonight. I measured it as I figured I would post the pic in this thread for a example. It is a small Elm tree only about 18" on the butt and 8" at the top. It is 38 ft long. I dropped it along the edge of my hay field on a very slight grade. I hooked on to it with a 140hp tractor and it would not move it with giving it a little running pull. Even then I ran out of traction a couple times and had to re-adjust. I gut to the gravel and that was fine until I made the turn into the driveway (which was a dumb move on my part). In any event I got it where I wanted but it was not without some hassle. The tractor has plenty of power but as much as I preach tire chains I do not have a set for that tractor. It rarely get used in the winter but now I must use it due to issues with other equipment. Now if you never plan to touch snow or frozen ground you will not need chains but in your area I am thinking you will.


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## pdqdl (Jan 22, 2022)

Bill G said:


> Since you are in CT do you plan on trying to move any logs in the winter? I assume so. No matter how much power you have it will not move a matchstick without traction. The type of tire will not help much either. The only way to move anything in snow, ice, or even frozen ground is with tire chains on. No matter what you go with if you are wanting to use it in the winter get good chains. Last week my brother called me up and said he had the skidder running and wanted to know if I wanted to pull some logs up. He showed up a little later and I laughed at him. I said what are you going to pull without chains on. He reply was oh I don't need them on the jobs I am using this machine on. It takes 4hrs to put them on and the main skidder has chains on. I laughed and said OK lets go. There was not anything to skid on the flat so we headed down the bluff. I live on the top of the bluff over the Mississippi River. It is near straight cliffs in many places but I have roads that are not to bad. Well off he goes down one. He stops well before it gets any steepness at all. He realizes he is in trouble and tries to back up the road. Well of course the skidder will not move. We stretch the winch line up the hill to a medium Ash that I was going to cut. Then he pulls himself back up. I drop the Ash and his son backs up to it and grabs it with the grapple. Well that did not go well at all and he dropped the front end in a ditch. Finally get him convinced to just get up the hill aways and winch it. Well that works and eventually we reach the top. The entire process took a long time and my brother says "I don't think we better try anymore today" I look at him and say "well no sh..t" The point of that story is the skidder had all the horsepower needed, the grapple had all the hydraulic power needed, still it could not even move it's own weight. Simple tire chains would have solved the entire issue.
> 
> Bill



No doubt about that traction in snow problem. Ag tires don't hold snow too well unless it is deep and somewhat warm. Then it packs down and gives traction.

You should have seen me many years ago trying to tow-start my tractor on a cold day, so as to load some salt. No amount of fresh batteries would spin the engine. We towed that ***** down the road up to 30mph, popping the clutch in high gear. COLD engine just said "Nope! Ain't gonna turn."

The rear wheels would then go crazy, one spinning forward holding traction, and the other spinning backwards. I'd stomp on the left brake, right brake, reversing the tire spinning effect, and that tractor would be sloughing all over the road. After a couple of miles, we got it started, but it was really crazy.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 22, 2022)

Bill G said:


> View attachment 958679
> 
> 
> This is another example. I pulled this tree up tonight. I measured it as I figured I would post the pic in this thread for a example. It is a small Elm tree only about 18" on the butt and 8" at the top. It is 38 ft long. I dropped it along the edge of my hay field on a very slight grade. I hooked on to it with a 140hp tractor and it would not move it with giving it a little running pull. Even then I ran out of traction a couple times and had to re-adjust. I gut to the gravel and that was fine until I made the turn into the driveway (which was a dumb move on my part). In any event I got it where I wanted but it was not without some hassle. The tractor has plenty of power but as much as I preach tire chains I do not have a set for that tractor. It rarely get used in the winter but now I must use it due to issues with other equipment. Now if you never plan to touch snow or frozen ground you will not need chains but in your area I am thinking you will.



traction is a good point. Funny you bring that up because I was thinking of doing a little splitting Friday after work and I got home and went out in the yard and it’s all ice. So that didn’t happen but it made me think about the traction issue. Honestly with the way the yard is now even if I did have chains and could get the equipment setup I’d surely wipe out and hurt myself. Chains is definitely something to think about which I haven’t really considered.

this thread has been very helpful. Thank you everyone for your thoughts. Feel free to keep adding them.


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## JRM (Jan 23, 2022)

I've skidded a lot of logs out of the woods with my little L. I don't take too many pictures while I'm working, this is the only one I can find for now. The only reason I even had my phone out there that day was taking pictures of the recent snow fall. The woods are a beautiful place after a fresh snow! 
At any rate, I've hauled out bigger than this. If the 3 point will pick it it'll generally drag it. Grab the big end if possible, it puts weight on the drive tires and subsequently lightens the amount of dead weight you have to drag.


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## pdqdl (Jan 23, 2022)

Get a set of log tongs, then you won't be dragging your chains into oblivion.



You can get them in any size.





32″ Log Skidding Tongs







timberking.com









25″ Log Skidding Tongs







timberking.com









Roughneck Log Tongs 16in. Diameter, 750 Lb. Capacity, Model# 2504Q046 | Northern Tool


These Roughneck® Log Tongs are made with forged round alloy steel for the best tensile strength and durability. They are shaped to increas...




www.northerntool.com


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## JRM (Jan 23, 2022)

If you pick the log up like you should you won't ruin your chain 
Tongs are ok for some things but I mostly use a chain with a slip hook for dragging them any kind of distance. The yellow hook hanging on the back of my tractor in my pic is actually a set of tongs, I do use both. 

A chain affords better control of the log and better adjustibility length wise on the back of your hitch. 

P.S. I got my tongs from Tractor Supply, DON'T buy tongs from them, they are junk!


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## JRM (Jan 23, 2022)

MiserblOF said:


> For traction and size / strength of loader, you are right. But I would submit, just for one example, that the Kubota L2501 is too much tractor for the horsepower. One real hp hog, and one of the main reasons I got a bigger tractor is to run a chipper/shredder or chipper. The deal with chippers is that while you might never chip an 8" log, you want that 8" chipper because of the smaller stuff you can push thru it without having to trim it so much. I went from a 3" gas powered to a 5.5" PTO, that I bought used, and if I live long enough and am able to afford it, will go for an 8" PTO chipper. For that, depending on the brand, my 32 hp at the PTO is either on the low end or not enough. But since I'll never chip an 8" log, low end is enough.



HP is Absolutely important if buying to use for specific purpose like this. I should have been more specific in my statement, I was speaking in terms of firewood use/landscape use that the OP is interested in.


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## Cliff R (Jan 23, 2022)

Weight is a BIG deal with tractors and equipment, especially when it comes to traction. You don't need big powerful engines in these machines either. I have a John Deere 318 with a custom weight bracket on the back, a rack of suitcase weights, loaded tires, wheel weights and chains. The front in counter balanced with a really heavy John Deere plow. I've pulled full size vehicles out of the ditch many times when they run off the road down in front of the house on slippery Winter days. When I show up with that little tractor I get some pretty strange looks but they go away quickly when I latch on to them and yank them back up on the road. The biggest vehicle to date was a service van that tried to turn around in my driveway and missed and went down into the ditch. The van was full of equipment and "high sided" with the left front wheel clear off the ground. I snatched the van right back up on the road to the amazement of the driver. 

I have a John Deere 212 for snow plow duty as well. The tires are loaded, weights, chains and posi-differential. It's nearly unstoppable and in the last 20 years I've never been stuck with it or piled snow high enough I couldn't push it. The little 12hp engine never grumbles at all because it has a very well thought out gearing system with a variable speed lever for each gear. The transmission/transaxle is also cast iron and very robust putting the weight where it should be. I had a much larger Cub Cadet tractor for a while with a V-twin engine and light weight aluminum rear diff. That POS would get stuck if you ran over a banana peel facing down hill!! In the Winter you didn't even dare back it out of the shop with 1/4" of snow on the driveway or you were NOT getting it back in without a winch!..........

I'd also mention the way they rate HP these days is very deceiving. A tiny little mower at Lowe's may have a higher HP rating that a decent size compact tractor but not on par anyplace with the much larger machine. I absolutely LOVE those little Yanmar 3 cylinder diesel engines and they have great potential for the displacement and rated power. I mow with a John Deere X740, 62" deck and it never grumbles once no matter how fast you go or how high the grass is.......


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## NSMaple1 (Jan 23, 2022)

We've got a couple 100hp class tractors here that would be useless in the winter without some kind of traction help. If that will be a situation you will be in (the OP that is), and chains might be in your future, make sure what you get has room for chains under the fenders. Some just don't have the room to confidently do it. One of ours has chains - the other has studs.


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## JRM (Jan 23, 2022)

I've never felt the need to run chains on a 4x4 tractor. 2 wheel drive, thats another story. For context we average north of 100" annual snow fall. Currently sitting at over 2ft on the ground and accumulating by the minute.


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## NSMaple1 (Jan 23, 2022)

JRM said:


> I've never felt the need to run chains on a 4x4 tractor. 2 wheel drive, thats another story. For context we average north of 100" annual snow fall. Currently sitting at over 2ft on the ground and accumulating by the minute.


And not everyones situation is the same.

Our freeze/thaw cycles build lots of ice over the winter, in the yard and on the woods roads. Both pretty hilly.


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## Bill G (Jan 23, 2022)

NSMaple1 said:


> We've got a couple 100hp class tractors here that would be useless in the winter without some kind of traction help. If that will be a situation you will be in (the OP that is), and chains might be in your future, make sure what you get has room for chains under the fenders. Some just don't have the room to confidently do it. One of ours has chains - the other has studs.



Yes, That is what I stated in my above post. All the HP in world will do no good if you cannot apply it to the ground. That is the reason the skidder could not get it self up a slight hill last week and why I had issues with the tree yesterday. Chains are the only way to go. With the exception of the tractor I was running yesterday and will be later today everything runs chains. That includes my Kawasaki Mule. Years ago I had a set of tire cables in the trunk of my wife's car. Your point of making sure the tractor has enough clearance to run chains is a good one. I am used to my tractors with spin out rims. In the winter you just spin them out aways so you have plenty of clearance. Around here there are many tractor fenders that have been ruined by running chains too loose and too fast. You get them to slapping and BANG there goes a fender. The fine man that used to live on my farm always ran chains on his pickups during the winter. That included the F250 highboy. He also had a 2WD Chevy 1/2ton that he went everywhere with with chains. The tire shop in a small town 40 miles south of here has a snowplow on a 1978 Ford 1/2 ton 2wd. He puts chains on and fills the bed with used tires. Now that being said I would not by a 2wd truck but that is a different conversation.

On another note about chains when you get to that point take a good hard look at what you are buying. There is a HUGE difference in type/style/quality. I am looking for a good quality 18x38 pair but I have yet to find any new ones that I am pleased with. All I can find is cheap single loop "highway" chains" I will probably end up building a set from individual components. It seems no one has a heavy set of "X" style ice chains


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## NSMaple1 (Jan 23, 2022)

I should have also mentioned steps and whatever else might be in the way, and not just fenders. Some steps are real close to the front of the back tires on some units.


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## Bill G (Jan 23, 2022)

JRM said:


> I've never felt the need to run chains on a 4x4 tractor. 2 wheel drive, thats another story. For context we average north of 100" annual snow fall. Currently sitting at over 2ft on the ground and accumulating by the minute.




You doing OK getting around in that 2ft of snow? Any ice pack under that? We warmed up about 8-10 days ago and melted off most snow. It then went sub zero and left close to a inch of solid ice. Then a little snow on top a day or two later which will melt off Monday then by Wednesday the low is supposed to be -13 which will build more ice. Currently I do not have any cows to feed but for many years I did. There was no taking a day off because the weather was bad. Every single night 365 days a year I had to haul hay and feed. We never got 24" of snow at a time but had we I still would have had to go through it.


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## Bill G (Jan 23, 2022)

NSMaple1 said:


> I should have also mentioned steps and whatever else might be in the way, and not just fenders. Some steps are real close to the front of the back tires on some units.


Another good point on smaller tractors


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## Bill G (Jan 23, 2022)

Here are three chain designs




The first is a light highway chain. The second is better. Both of these are available in most tractor tire sizes. The last are skidder chains and not available in tractor tire sizes, well they will fit a combine but I digress........


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## NSMaple1 (Jan 23, 2022)

Ours are these. Trygg. If this pic posts.


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## Bill G (Jan 23, 2022)

Yet another of my useless plugs for chains is running them in the summer. Yes as odd as that sounds in the summer. We used to put them on the small tractor for running the bush hog during the summer. Of course traction was not an issue, it was to help break up the Locust thorns and keep the tire just a little bit further away from them. It did help. Then we went to a solid tire. The neighbor also would place a much larger tire over the top of his tires on a 2020 Deere but I do not remember it working so well.


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## Franny K (Jan 23, 2022)

Not sure where in CT you are. I have the smallest utility tractor from Deere. 5xxx with the I3 and R4 tires. If you are sort of close to 06076 come and experiment. The tires on most of the stuff in this thread seem limited.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 23, 2022)

Franny K said:


> Not sure where in CT you are. I have the smallest utility tractor from Deere. 5xxx with the I3 and R4 tires. If you are sort of close to 06076 come and experiment. The tires on most of the stuff in this thread seem limited.



i just checked the zip it’s an hour and a half from me. I’m as far north east as you can get without going into mass. I appreciate the offer though. I was hoping you were close by. My brother lives out towards that way he’s in wolcott.


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## Sandhill Crane (Jan 23, 2022)

Because of this thread I spent a little time surfing. Yammer has 0% for seven years financing some of their lineup.
That's not good! This thread could be very expensive...tens of thousands wise.


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## Franny K (Jan 23, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> i just checked the zip it’s an hour and a half from me. I’m as far north east as you can get without going into mass. I appreciate the offer though. I was hoping you were close by. My brother lives out towards that way he’s in wolcott.


Well it is Stafford springs and I am 0.8 miles from the Ma line.


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## Bill G (Jan 23, 2022)

Sandhill Crane said:


> Because of this thread I spent a little time surfing. Yammer has 0% for seven years financing some of their lineup.
> That's not good! This thread could be very expensive...tens of thousands wise.


If you get serious about buying I would strongly look at a cash price. You can probably do much better on cash and if you need to finance then bank rates are really low.......for now. Interest is going to go up, that is for certain. I am betting the dealer/company would much rather have the cash now as with interest going up the opportunity costs of allowing a customer to spread it out over 7 years are high.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 23, 2022)

Bill G said:


> If you get serious about buying I would strongly look at a cash price. You can probably do much better on cash and if you need to finance then bank rates are really low.......for now. Interest is going to go up, that is for certain. I am betting the dealer/company would much rather have the cash now as with interest going up the opportunity costs of allowing a customer to spread it out over 7 years are high.



depends on the manufacturer, Massey is only a few hundred cheaper to go cash. Their doing 0% for 72 or 1.49 for 84. Kioti is up charging the tractors to get low rate 1.99. The 2610 is an extra 1200 and the 3510 is 1700 extra. It’s still cheaper overall to pay the upcharge to get the low rate vs lower overall price and standard rate. The Massey dealers quote only shows a 239 dollar discount if I paid cash vs finance 1.49 for 84.


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## JRM (Jan 23, 2022)

Bill G said:


> You doing OK getting around in that 2ft of snow? Any ice pack under that? We warmed up about 8-10 days ago and melted off most snow. It then went sub zero and left close to a inch of solid ice. Then a little snow on top a day or two later which will melt off Monday then by Wednesday the low is supposed to be -13 which will build more ice. Currently I do not have any cows to feed but for many years I did. There was no taking a day off because the weather was bad. Every single night 365 days a year I had to haul hay and feed. We never got 24" of snow at a time but had we I still would have had to go through it.


The depth is generally not a problem until it is deep enough to high center you. This last snowfall put me right at the limit but so far so good. I agree 100% with the above poster, every climate is different and everyones needs are different. This time of year my little L's uses are limited to firewood harvesting and snow clearing. It performs well at both. When it comes to dragging logs the obvious needs to be stated....picking up an end on the 3 pt will place traction on the rears and deduct weight from the required weight being pulled. It is all about traction. Fortunately, I don't have too many requirements where I need to pull heavy on ice.


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## Chris1044 (Jan 23, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> depends on the manufacturer, Massey is only a few hundred cheaper to go cash. Their doing 0% for 72 or 1.49 for 84. Kioti is up charging the tractors to get low rate 1.99. The 2610 is an extra 1200 and the 3510 is 1700 extra. It’s still cheaper overall to pay the upcharge to get the low rate vs lower overall price and standard rate. The Massey dealers quote only shows a 239 dollar discount if I paid cash vs finance 1.49 for 84.


Not sure what it's done in the last few months the with inflation, but last summer orange and green dealers wanted more for a cash sale. 

Similar to cars, they don't care if you can pay all up front now. They want you to pay the interest...because they make more that way with the agreements they have using a single lender.


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## Sandhill Crane (Jan 23, 2022)

Yammer cash discounts varied depending on model. Seems like it was 2-4k.
Say $4k off cash price. Or, 0% for 84 months.
The $4k/84 months = $47.62/month (basically interest over cash)
But, you can rationalize any purchase... 
That would be $1.54/day interest.
Less than a Coke.
Cab or no cab?


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## CJ1 (Jan 24, 2022)

Right now I have 2 tractors and 1 front end loader in my pole barn. And just finished working on a new 321f Case for a friend. ALL are either Hydrostat or my older loader is a auto w/torque converter. The smallest HP one is my Kioti at 50hp and my recommendation is get the most HP you can afford. There is many reasons the clutch tractors are going away just like manuals in vehicles like I said before. I have a 416 Cat backhoe on the way just for reference. I have a backhoe attachment for my Kioti and it is a 2 stick just like a ex or bigger backhoe. With that being said it is my most expensive attachment to buy and the least used. I use it for installing power cables and pulling a stump or 2 if they are in the way. Otherwise a mini ex at $275 a day will work circles around the backhoe attachment. I dug a septic tank in with it and it was a 4 hour job, the mini or my cat would have done it in a hour. Get a bucket, forks and a grapple if you can afford the grapple for the front, all with a quick change. If not, clamps for the forks or bucket work ok. I have 2 grapples and they are my most used attachment. They do just about everything including skidding logs, I build a V where the tines hit and you don't even need to get out of the tractor to grab a tree. I have a Gannon roller box and a 7' double auger snow blower and a large 3 point leaf blower that I use for burning brush and stumps for the rear attachments. Also a 8' snow box for the front. I use R4 industrial tires for everything as the AG tires will not hold up in the woods, they chunk badly because of the stumps. I have my front tires studded and the rear tires have 2 link V bar chains and are loaded for weight. Oh and I built a 20' lifting attachment for the front for setting trusses and doing masonary work. I won't own a piece of equipment without a cab. CJ


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## Cliff R (Jan 24, 2022)

I dropped the hammer today on the Yanmar SA424. It came with a 6' grapple, 3rd function hydraulics to run it, loaded rear tires, and rear wheel weights. I've shopped compact tractors pretty hard for the past several weeks and ended the search today.

What I found is that there are a lot of nice units out there, but not really one perfect machine. I kept finding that I would give up certain items on my list of requirements moving from brand to brand and model to model. 

I had to take a few off my list due to availability, a couple others due to price. I set the budget at $25,000 and found that several tractors on my list, specifically the John Deere models quickly soared past $30,000 adding the items that I was looking for.

I also took a few off my list due to dealer support, Kioti and Bobcat dealers for me are just too far away. \

Could literally go on for many pages but for sure the Yanmar has a few very strong points I'll mention here.

Cast iron transmission/differential.

Dual hydraulic pumps to split the load between power steer/loader and transmission.

Warranty, 10 years powertrain.

Financing, zero for 84 months.

Cost of accessories, up to 1/3rd for some items compared to the competition.

Lift capacity of the loader, 1200 pounds and also 1200lbs for the three point.

It's in dead last place for looks with the rounded hood and goofy headlights, but that's just my opinion and really has nothing to do with how well it will work........


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## husky455rancher (Jan 24, 2022)

Cliff R said:


> I dropped the hammer today on the Yanmar SA424. It came with a 6' grapple, 3rd function hydraulics to run it, loaded rear tires, and rear wheel weights. I've shopped compact tractors pretty hard for the past several weeks and ended the search today.
> 
> What I found is that there are a lot of nice units out there, but not really one perfect machine. I kept finding that I would give up certain items on my list of requirements moving from brand to brand and model to model.
> 
> ...


Congrats! I actually got some numbers on the yanmar 221 and 424 today. Did you get the backhoe? I’d be curious to the price breakdown that way I can tell if I’m getting hosed. I realize the 221 is subcompact but I wanted to see how that compared cost wise to the Massey 1725.


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## holeycow (Jan 24, 2022)

Huh. I think it looks really nice! In pictures anyway. Among the better lookers, imo. Picture opinion only...

It's load capacities are pretty small, but it's a tidy little thing (again, from pictures).

1200lbs is not much, but I guess if it's adequate, so be it.

congrats! You're gonna love it!


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## Cliff R (Jan 24, 2022)

I did not get the backhoe as we have a mini excavator and an older John Deere backhoe for big jobs. The Yanmar will be used mostly for firewood, lifting logs and pulling them out to cut up, moving brush and tops around, etc. I also have a gravel driveway so it will get a workout this summer moving gravel around, grading, etc.

My dealer had a rental unit on sight so let me work it pretty hard which really helped the sale. I also did some testing with the B2601 and L2501. The B2601 is "weak" for loader work, IMHO. I found the Yanmar very responsive and capable for the size of the machine.

I'm sure I'll LOVE it because it's going to be a LOT better than the wheelbarrow and shovel I've been using!.....


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## holeycow (Jan 24, 2022)

My neighbor's Kubota loader on his 135hp tractor seems weak even compared to my 90hp kioti tractor loader. Some of that is due to his grapple setup vs my spears, but he isn't impressed when he has serious trouble to "pop" froze in bales. 

maybe it's a Kubota thing? Idk.


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## pdqdl (Jan 24, 2022)

There have been lots of times when I was a lot happier with a small machine than a behemoth that wouldn't go where I needed some mechanization.


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## Highland_hunter (Jan 24, 2022)

The Massey's and Yanmar's are both on my short list. The first on my list are the Massey's mostly from a styling perspective. Well that and I have a couple of dealers that are both decent, one more so than the other, but both I would have no issues with.

My long term plan is to sell and relocate prior to or shortly after retirement so dealer support is totally secondary as that would be subject to change.


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## SweetMK (Jan 24, 2022)

What tractor to buy?
I bought my first tractor in 1982, with check number 0001,,,, (My wife has that check on display.)
(We moved into town, and lived in an apartment, on cash,, no one had a credit card back then)
We bought our home that we are currently in, and I bought a tractor before we paid for the first grocery store visit.
(back then, groceries were a "BIG" purchase, so you had to write a check )
That was an International 404, with an aftermarket loader.
The only reason I sold that tractor, is that I ran into a "deal of a lifetime" tractor,, an IH 584,, with an IH2250 loader.

People will tell you *"ONLY buy a tractor if you have nearby dealer support"*
In my case, I have had tractors since 1982,, 40 years exactly this coming April,, and* I have never needed a dealer for service.*
Maybe I am lucky, but, I have three tractors that are bigger than garden tractors,, and they just run,,

I only buy used tractors,, the total purchase price of my "fleet" is less than todays purchase price of a new 25HP 4WD JD with a loader,,







So, my opinion is,, everybody enjoy what you purchased,, I enjoy my purchases,,
If I had to do it over,, I would purchase the EXACT same machines,,

Maybe I was lucky,, maybe I did just enough research to make sure the tractor that was about to be purchased suited me,,
AND, maybe my wife was smart enough to talk me out of the WRONG machines,,,,,,,,,,
(like the 953 CAT that was tugging at my heart!!  )


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## Sportfury70 (Jan 25, 2022)

This thread has really taken stride, we all love our tractors (and our opinions!) don’t we?

OP, I’m just really curious what the heck your gonna get. Make sure you update us on your decision, and post pics pls.

P.s. Hey if you get the bobcat we can laugh at the Deere and kubota guys together!


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## Sportfury70 (Jan 25, 2022)

SweetMK said:


> What tractor to buy?
> I bought my first tractor in 1982, with check number 0001,,,, (My wife has that check on display.)
> (We moved into town, and lived in an apartment, on cash,, no one had a credit card back then)
> We bought our home that we are currently in, and I bought a tractor before we paid for the first grocery store visit.
> ...


Is that a 650 on the left? I used to use one of those to plow snow, good little machine.

I always wanted a 4wd 755. Such a stout and good looking machine. 80s and 90s JD was, imho, the best era of Deere equipment. A relative had a 332 that could mow for days on the same tank of fuel.

I looked and looked for one to upgrade my ford 14d from, but just couldn’t find one for the right price. That’s why I ended up with bobcat, for the money compared to the other options it was a no-brainer.

Here’s a pic of my little ford that I restored and sold to fund the bobcat:



Had a mower deck and front plow for it. Only reason I don’t still have it is I couldn’t find the parts to install a 3point on it.


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## ShermanC (Jan 25, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> Well I’ve pretty much decided I’m getting a tractor. I got numbers on a little guy Ls mt125, jd 1025r (holy mother it was expensive) and a bigger kioti 2610 and kioti 3510.
> 
> the jd is off the table. I can get so much more for my money in other brands. I’m about ready to get one of the kiotis. They can lift 1850 pounds to max height in the loaded. The only difference between the two is the engine. Ones 25 hp and ones 35. The 35 has a dpf but it dosent seem to be a real issue from what I’ve read. The 3510 is $2300 dollars more than the 2610. There is also a 930 dollar difference between the manual and hydro transmissions.
> Not sure if the extra power really matters all that much it’s not like I’m plowing a field haha. I’m just gonna use it to do my tree length firewood and log moving and clean up my yard and do some landscaping.
> ...


General experience of searching…I almost bought one in May ‘19, backed off, glad I did, 
pandemic continued, glad I backed out. My doctor farms raising hay and livestock. Last week we talked about tractors and he said as soon as a tractor buyer thinks he knows the size he would need, he would reeally need a size or two larger. I learned a lot and sure saved money. Keep searching and taking notes.


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## SweetMK (Jan 25, 2022)

Sportfury70 said:


> Is that a 650 on the left? I used to use one of those to plow snow, good little machine.
> 
> I always wanted a 4wd 755. Such a stout and good looking machine. 80s and 90s JD was, imho, the best era of Deere equipment.


Yea, that is a 650,, I "acquired" the 650 in a buyout of a man's possessions who had passed,, 
the 650 was going to be a mower for my daughter that was moving in next to us,,.
I mowed with it once, and decided that I was going to keep it,, so, I went out and found an 855 for my daughter,, slightly larger than a 755.
My daughter got pregnant, and her husband was* "stuck" with the mowing chores,,*
he had never even ran a riding mower, I was VERY leery of him on the 855,,, so I added almost 300 pounds of rear wheel weights to keep the "greasy side down",,,

After he had mowed only 3 times (about 4 acres) all of a sudden the tractor went from being his wife's tractor to being "his" tractor.
He literally went from being an apartment dweller, to a "country boy",, in about 6 months.
His idea of a "chain saw" was a battery powered Sawzall,,,   
After a few months of running the John Deere 855, he went out and *bought a Stihl MS 261 C-M. 
It is funny what the right tractor can do to a man,,,,,,,,,,,, LOL!! *
He has run that 855 for 6 years now,, and the only thing that needed to be done in that time is replace the dry rotted rear tires.
*I think that is a *testimony* to how tough the JD 855 is built,,*


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## The Shooters Apprentice (Jan 25, 2022)

Tractors are handy, but I would argue that a skid steer is a lot more handy.


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## CJ1 (Jan 25, 2022)

Cliff R said:


> I dropped the hammer today on the Yanmar SA424. It came with a 6' grapple, 3rd function hydraulics to run it, loaded rear tires, and rear wheel weights. I've shopped compact tractors pretty hard for the past several weeks and ended the search today.
> 
> What I found is that there are a lot of nice units out there, but not really one perfect machine. I kept finding that I would give up certain items on my list of requirements moving from brand to brand and model to model.
> 
> ...


If you can swap to a smaller grapple I would do it. That is alot of grapple for that machine. I purchased a 72" bobcat brand grapple and actually cut it down to 50" and made it a single lid clamp for my wheel loader. I widened the clamp out to 36" and basically made the perfect grapple. I have a single lid 48" grapple and ran them both back to back and the single lid was way nicer to run than the double and more productive. With a bigger grapple like that you will also be using 1/2 or more of your capacity just for the grapple. CJ


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## Bill G (Jan 25, 2022)

The Shooters Apprentice said:


> Tractors are handy, but I would argue that a skid steer is a lot more handy.



Always better to be handy than handsome..........


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## Cliff R (Jan 25, 2022)

Don't know if they have a smaller one, 60 and 72" was all I saw when I was at the dealer. It's a dual cylinder model, and looked pretty "beefy". The owner mentioned that they have sold a lot of them and no issues to date. I'll give it a try and see how it works. 

I have over 70 tops to cut up and move the brush from to a central location to burn it, so will find out pretty quickly if it's too much for the machine......


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## rwoods (Jan 25, 2022)

Cliff R said:


> Don't know if they have a smaller one, 60 and 72" was all I saw when I was at the dealer. It's a dual cylinder model, and looked pretty "beefy". The owner mentioned that they have sold a lot of them and no issues to date. I'll give it a try and see how it works.
> 
> I have over 70 tops to cut up and move the brush from to a central location to burn it, so will find out pretty quickly if it's too much for the machine......


 I recommend you find out how much it weighs. Every pound on it is one less pound you can lift. Surprising how fast lift capacity is lost to the attachment and, if applicable, the attachment that holds the attachment.

Ron


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## Cliff R (Jan 25, 2022)

Just to look at it I'd say 300 pounds or so. Not planning on lifting big weight with it, mostly grab and drag to the landing for the most part, and lifting a few tops out of the muck to cut them up.

This is not my first rodeo with tractors or equipment I grew up on a farm and have owned, borrowed, rented and used all sort of small tractors, mini-excavators, backhoes, skid-steers, etc. 

I'll tread softy at first to find the capabilities limitations of the loader and machine and report back if it's worth two squirts of duck poop or not?.......Cliff


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## Ryan'smilling (Jan 25, 2022)

The Shooters Apprentice said:


> Tractors are handy, but I would argue that a skid steer is a lot more handy.



It really depends on the task at hand, and the individual tractor vs skid steer you're talking about.

I mean if you're comparing a skid to an 8n, then yeah absolutely. Personally, I think skids, generally speaking, are more robust and powerful for lifting, digging, and grappling tasks. A tracked one for grading is pretty sweet too. But handy, not really. They're a pain to get into and out of compared to a tractor, and you really can't operate on a lawn without doing damage. My kubota with a loader and three point has better visibility, is easier to get into, can operate on a lawn, AND it can carry two implements at the same time.

I sure love using a grapple on the front and my box blade on the back for burning brush. Or the grapple on the front and the winch on the back for logging. Or the bucket on the front and the box blade on the back for spreading gravel. Also, I know they can do it, but a skid loader with a bush hog sucks for mowing a pasture compared to a tractor.

Tractors are also usually a fair bit cheaper. I have $5050 into a 1999 new Holland tc29d and a 5' bush hog. Show me a handier setup for mowing a pasture with a skid loader for even twice the price.


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## ericm979 (Jan 25, 2022)

CJ1 said:


> If you can swap to a smaller grapple I would do it.


yep, I was going to say the same. Every pound of grapple means one less pound of log you can lift. My grapple is 54" on a 72" at the wheels wide tractor. It's wider than I need for logs but works for brush.


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## Huskybill (Jan 25, 2022)

Read the reviews on yt about tractors having certain problems. It steered me away from b a new one.

Here’s my 55 Willy’s Jeep 4x4 75 hp with 5:38:1 gears with loc rites in both diffs and 4 way plow. Owned her for 25+ years now. Boxed the frame with 3/8” plate steel. I have wrecker ice bar chains on four wheels. If I was going to do this again it would be a dualists 4 x4 one ton drivetrain.

I’m building a tractor with an fel and backhoe but cancer took a hold of me. I have some work to do but can’t spend. $50: k on a machine.


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## CJ1 (Jan 26, 2022)

Cliff R said:


> Don't know if they have a smaller one, 60 and 72" was all I saw when I was at the dealer. It's a dual cylinder model, and looked pretty "beefy". The owner mentioned that they have sold a lot of them and no issues to date. I'll give it a try and see how it works.
> 
> I have over 70 tops to cut up and move the brush from to a central location to burn it, so will find out pretty quickly if it's too much for the machine......


There are no double lid grapples that weigh 300lbs more like 600. My single lid econo grapple is 375. Very light weight. And yes I have bent the lid and tines a couple of times. You would not be able to tear up a 600+ lb grapple on a machine that will only lift 1200. Anyway you sound like you are all set! have fun with the new toy. CJ


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## Cliff R (Jan 26, 2022)

I don't have any way to weigh the grapple but you could be correct. It did appear to be very well built so may weigh in closer to 500lbs or so. Not really a concern for me, as I'm moving a lot of brush and limbs cut from tops with it. I'll use it to pick up some of the larger tops out of the muck after I cut the smaller limbs loose. I'm really looking forward to having another hand to help me out. Turning 63 this year and although I'm still able to do everything I want to it's going to be really nice to have a loader and grapple to help me out.......


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## gumneck (Jan 26, 2022)

Not sure if the OP has decided but just posting this to give an idea for prices etc. Its about an hour south of me and If I had REAL money, it would fit right in my WANT category. Tractors are awesome.

"2020 John Deere 3025e 42 hours like new with front loader extended warranty 20,800"


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## Franny K (Jan 26, 2022)

rwoods said:


> I recommend you find out how much it weighs. Every pound on it is one less pound you can lift. Surprising how fast lift capacity is lost to the attachment and, if applicable, the attachment that holds the attachment.
> 
> Ron


The frame for the forks on a loader without the forks and some attachments part way up will allow use of chains and the distance front to back can be changed somewhat with the curl function. Close most of the time but farther away to keep the load from hitting the nose of the tractor. Depends on what tires are on the front like I said prior the compact and subcompact tractors have limited front tires in my opinion. getting some load on both ends is the most productive if the distance is much.


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## Cliff R (Jan 26, 2022)

I found a LOT of JD 3025E's for sale in excellent shape, low hours, etc.

It's a nice unit, but lacks mid PTO, lightweight aluminum diff, and for some reason the diff-loc is part of the brake pedal (if memory serves me correctly).

The dealer where I tested several other tractors had three of them with under 100 hours on the clock at about the same money......


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## ericm979 (Jan 26, 2022)

Mid PTO is good for running a mid mounted finish mower or a front mounted snow blower. And that's about it. My tractor is far too heavy to use on the lawn; I mow that with a riding mower.

If you'll be picking up heavy stuff you should have some ballast on the rear 3pt. They make ballast boxes which can be both heavy and compact, unlike implements. Many people make their own.


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## Huskybill (Jan 26, 2022)

I have three international 154’s, one farmall cub. I have six cub cadets with plow, mowers, snowthrower, tiller, plus my Jeep with the rear engine driven pto. Need chains to push any kind of snow.


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## 665.0coupe (Jan 26, 2022)

Another thing to keep in mind about JD compact tractors is that the front end loaders use a proprietary quick attach. Not many attachment manufactures make attachments that use the JD style. This will limit your ability to find used or cheap attachments. Skid steer quick attach style is much more common.


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## Robpm (Jan 26, 2022)

665.0coupe said:


> Another thing to keep in mind about JD compact tractors is that the front end loaders use a proprietary quick attach. Not many attachment manufactures make attachments that use the JD style. This will limit your ability to find used or cheap attachments. Skid steer quick attach style is much more common.


I realize that there are a vast amount of skid steer quick attach devices out there but I would have to say that there are a lot of items out there with the JDQA system as well. Most manufacturers recognize the market size that JD has and they accomodate their devices to the JDQA. So I would not make that a limiting factor.


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## holeycow (Jan 26, 2022)

I sure would.


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## cantoo (Jan 26, 2022)

12" of snow yesterday. 9' pusher and 7' blower. 7' wide back blade with sides and extended tongue to scrap away from doors and buildings. Any tractor is handy.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 26, 2022)

gumneck said:


> Not sure if the OP has decided but just posting this to give an idea for prices etc. Its about an hour south of me and If I had REAL money, it would fit right in my WANT category. Tractors are awesome.
> 
> "2020 John Deere 3025e 42 hours like new with front loader extended warranty 20,800"
> View attachment 959586


No decisions as of yet. I’m going to look at a subcompact Massey when it comes in. Possibly next week I was told. I have to decide if I want a subcompact with a backhoe or a compact without a backhoe. I wanna go measure the Massey when it comes in. There’s a chance I might fit it in the storage box I use as a shed if I flip the backhoe to the side. I can’t do a compact with the hoe due to the huge price jump. I have to think what would be more useful overall for me.


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## gumneck (Jan 27, 2022)

Well good luck with your decision, it's not easy that's for sure. 
For the backhoe do you have specific plans to dig footings for an upcoming structure or just do a lot digging in general?


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## Huskybill (Jan 27, 2022)

Read the reviews on you tube. The welder who posts there had problems with his new one.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 27, 2022)

gumneck said:


> Well good luck with your decision, it's not easy that's for sure.
> For the backhoe do you have specific plans to dig footings for an upcoming structure or just do a lot digging in general?



I wanna clear out the side of my property line that has all kinda vine thorn crap growing everywhere. My porch needs new footings. Well all the decking should be replaced as well. I’d like to dig up my cement walkway get rid of it all together and expand the driveway. I could put my gutter drainage under ground. The Wife has been relentless about a fence for the dogs. I don’t really want to do that but we’ll see. I could be wrong but I feel like the backhoe with a mechanical thumb would work really well for picking up logs to buck them up too. There’s a few other things I wanna do. Do I need a backhoe? No, do I need a tractor? No, I’ve been getting along without it so far. I’m sure a subcompact with loader and forks would be awesome.

a little tractor might fit in my storage box with my log splitter if I take everything else out. Otherwise I’m gonna have to get a tent or something for it. I wish I had more land as I want to up my firewood game and that takes up space. As does a giant tent.


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## Highland_hunter (Jan 27, 2022)

If you are taking a hard look at the GC series of subcompacts I would say you can't go wrong with them, I like them a lot actually.

If you end up settling on a subcompact it will do everything you are looking to accomplish it just might take a little longer than having a larger unit and you won't be working with as large of a trunk or concrete. Knowing and accepting that fact up front will keep everything in perspective.

As many have said larger is better, but not in every instance, and having asked on a forum you get conflicting opinions. The opinion that matters most is yours and any input you get from the boss. Something to take into consideration is would she feel comfortable operating a subcompact over a compact or larger assuming she will be assisting with any of the tasks you hope to accomplish.

Anywho I am a fan of the Massey line which is one of the reasons I recommended Goff's in an earlier post, though I'm sure there may be others closer to you. I have accepted the fact of the limitations of a subcompact and figure if and when the time comes that I need to move up in size I will do so at that time.

Best of luck with your decision, it's never easy and even more difficult when taking varying opinions into account.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 27, 2022)

Highland_hunter said:


> If you are taking a hard look at the GC series of subcompacts I would say you can't go wrong with them, I like them a lot actually.
> 
> If you end up settling on a subcompact it will do everything you are looking to accomplish it just might take a little longer than having a larger unit and you won't be working with as large of a trunk or concrete. Knowing and accepting that fact up front will keep everything in perspective.
> 
> ...



im sure the mrs would feel more comfortable with the subcompact. There’s so many variables. My Massey dealer isn’t responding to me so I dunno what that’s about lol. Worst case I can buy it from Bruno’s power sports and they ship it to me. It’s still actually cheaper if I do it that way. They sell bobcat too but he was told 4 months before he’ll get anymore. I can wait a little while if need be as I’m not planning to use it to move snow at all so there’s no immediate need. If I got something now it would have to sleep outside if it didn’t fit in my storage box. At least till I could put up a tent after winter.


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## jrjeep7 (Jan 28, 2022)

I bought a Sa424 Tlb 2 years ago. Its not a skid steer or mini ex but it gets the job done just takes longer kind a like a swiss army knife it can do everything just don't rush it. Only down side to this machine is the lack of skid steer quick attach , but you can buy a kit or make 1 if you need it. Since getting mine I now have a box blade, york rake , post hole digger , small grapple and pallet forks. Its addicting looking at attachments and upgrades lol. I bought mine from west end power in danbury ct and was a great experience. No haggling gave me a good price and the zero financing wife was skeptical but now loves it. She get flower beds and tress planted quickly  . I use mine more than the lawn mower and never touch the wheel barrow anymore. Firewood, brush, garden, put in a pool and patio got the yard nice its a long list. I don't think you would regret any compact tractor as long as you know the limitations they have.


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## Cliff R (Jan 28, 2022)

During my original search I took the SA424 off my list because it didn't offer the skit steer quick attach system and only came with a 54" bucket. 

Otherwise it met all the criteria I was looking for when I started the search.......


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## gumneck (Jan 29, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> I wanna clear out the side of my property line that has all kinda vine thorn crap growing everywhere. My porch needs new footings. Well all the decking should be replaced as well. I’d like to dig up my cement walkway get rid of it all together and expand the driveway. I could put my gutter drainage under ground. The Wife has been relentless about a fence for the dogs. I don’t really want to do that but we’ll see. I could be wrong but I feel like the backhoe with a mechanical thumb would work really well for picking up logs to buck them up too. There’s a few other things I wanna do. Do I need a backhoe? No, do I need a tractor? No, I’ve been getting along without it so far. I’m sure a subcompact with loader and forks would be awesome.
> 
> a little tractor might fit in my storage box with my log splitter if I take everything else out. Otherwise I’m gonna have to get a tent or something for it. I wish I had more land as I want to up my firewood game and that takes up space. As does a giant tent.


Oh there's no doubt you NEED a tractor and in my nearly 30 years experience owning some, the front end loader will be a game changer for anyone that never had one. You will never regret the front end loader addition unless you ruin a prized spit window 63 Corvette with it.
Viny crap = a light grapple rake will work good on that and one would be surpised how well a 3 pt box scraper with heavy tines will do
Backhoe for bucking logs = it would work but forks on a 3 pt would too, just cheaper
Decking replacement = FEL with forks can help move the new wood to and fro as well as help in demo'ing the old deck
Fence for dogs = Rear PTO with 3 pt auger work really well for pole installation. 
Backhoe for footings = it'll dig faster than you and me together

I think everyone in the thread is looking fwd to seeing what you come up with.


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## husky455rancher (Jan 29, 2022)

gumneck said:


> Oh there's no doubt you NEED a tractor and in my nearly 30 years experience owning some, the front end loader will be a game changer for anyone that never had one. You will never regret the front end loader addition unless you ruin a prized spit window 63 Corvette with it.
> Viny crap = a light grapple rake will work good on that and one would be surpised how well a 3 pt box scraper with heavy tines will do
> Backhoe for bucking logs = it would work but forks on a 3 pt would too, just cheaper
> Decking replacement = FEL with forks can help move the new wood to and fro as well as help in demo'ing the old deck
> ...



the Massey dealer got two 1725mb’s yesterday. I didn’t have the time after work to go check them out and we’re getting a bit of a blizzard today in Connecticut. Hopefully Friday I can head down after work. Next Saturday will be worst case. My wife wants me to get the small tractor with the backhoe instead of the bigger tractor without the backhoe. That’s not the deciding factor but I’m keeping it in mind.


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## holeycow (Jan 29, 2022)

the stories of first time tiny tractor buyers who buy an undersized machine are rampant. I have been watching you go there, imo.

that little massey has very limited capability. Like sad, really. Especially the hoe attachment.

what kind of ground do you have to dig. If it's at all hard, you will be ****ed.

so, so many first-time tractor buyers are disappointed with the true capabilities of their tiny tractor because they bought too small. They are forced to "upgrade" to something bigger. It is not an "upgrade", it simply means that they overestimated the capabilities of the original machine due to inexperience and lots of times, budget.

that 17 series massey, while cute, has very low lifting specs at both ends (sad, actually). Keep in mind that you don't want to operate at the max, as a rule. You should be looking at about 2/3 of those #'s as a generally safe weight unless you are on perfectly smooth, level ground. The pivoting front axle of a tractor of any size changes everything wrt to safety on uneven ground. One little hole will dump that little thing upside down in an instant. Anyway...

my take, fwiw (nothing); buy the 18 series without a hoe. Make sure you get a quick attach front AND back. You can buy a lot of useful attachments for the price of that cheesy little hoe on the 17 series. You will most likely end up using the hoe as ballast more than anything (lousy, shaky, too high ballast at that).

Rent a hoe, or even hire one for the larger jobs. A good operator with a proper hoe will do 100 times more 100 times faster 100 times better. This from a guy who can run some things...

your wife will feel WAY safer on the heavier-duty machine. The 1725 is a dinky toy compared to the 18 series, which is a genuine tiny tractor. The 17 series are closer to riding mowers than they are to tractors, imo.

be careful in your purchasing decision. If you want a tractor, buy a TRACTOR, not a toy. The capabilities are night and day.

Just do us all who are afraid for your choice a favour, look at the 18 too...

anywho, good luck with whatever you decide!!

buying nearly anything these days is an agonizing pita because of all the information available. I feel your pain, lol.

Your massey dealer not calling you back; strike one...

me, I would take the cheaper price option almost every time (Within reason). If the local dealer can't come very close on price, then look elsewhere. Remember, the warranty is a manufacturer's warranty, not a dealer's warranty.


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## gumneck (Jan 29, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> the Massey dealer got two 1725mb’s yesterday. I didn’t have the time after work to go check them out and we’re getting a bit of a blizzard today in Connecticut. Hopefully Friday I can head down after work. Next Saturday will be worst case. My wife wants me to get the small tractor with the backhoe instead of the bigger tractor without the backhoe. That’s not the deciding factor but I’m keeping it in mind.


In case you haven't read over this thread on tractor net. Looks like a review on similar model couple years ago. I just read a couple pgs and didn't check out his YT post.








Bought a new Massey Ferguson 1735M


Hello everyone. After lots of shopping, lots of statistical comparisons, lots of quotes, and lots of forum hunting and YouTube watching, I settled down on a new Massey Ferguson 1735M HST with a FEL, a 6' Bush Hog, and a 6' box blade. It was delivered earlier this week and I really love the...




www.tractorbynet.com


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## Lnk (Jan 29, 2022)

pdqdl said:


> Get a set of log tongs, then you won't be dragging your chains into oblivion.
> 
> View attachment 958722
> 
> ...


Is that carabineer strong enough to connect the chain to the tongs?


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## pdqdl (Jan 29, 2022)

Lnk said:


> Is that carabineer strong enough to connect the chain to the tongs?



Those are not carabiners in the links I posted. Those are forged chain links. So yes. Absolutely.

I kinda doubt if that dinky carabiner in the posted picture is up to the challenge, however. It's probably a known failure waiting for an opportunity to present itself.


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## Sawyer Rob (Feb 5, 2022)

One thing is for sure, it won't be long, and you will be wishing for a bigger tractor, so try not to buy small in the first place.

SR


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## Cliff R (Feb 5, 2022)

My new Yanmar was delivered right before the ice/snow storm hit. I didn't have time to make chains for it but did make a weight bar to add some ballast to the 3 point hitch. It came with loaded rear tires and didn't feel light in the rear but nothing here is flat so I'm liking a little more weight out back for bucket work.
I don't have enough time on it to report very much. So far I'm finding it a very capable machine for the size. It has excellent hydraulic response and lift capacity. It also responds instantly in forward or reverse in either range, no moaning or groaning in protest unlike several much more expensive tractors I tested while shopping for one.

Overall I'm quite pleased so far, but I'll have to spend a LOT more time with it find out the capabilities and limitations..........


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## GeeVee (Feb 6, 2022)

Cliff R said:


> My new Yanmar was delivered right before the ice/snow storm hit. I didn't have time to make chains for it but did make a weight bar to add some ballast to the 3 point hitch. It came with loaded rear tires and didn't feel light in the rear but nothing here is flat so I'm liking a little more weight out back for bucket work.
> I don't have enough time on it to report very much. So far I'm finding it a very capable machine for the size. It has excellent hydraulic response and lift capacity. It also responds instantly in forward or reverse in either range, no moaning or groaning in protest unlike several much more expensive tractors I tested while shopping for one.
> 
> Overall I'm quite pleased so far, but I'll have to spend a LOT more time with it find out the capabilities and limitations..........View attachment 962502
> View attachment 962503


You have a little lettuce in your teeth....


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 6, 2022)

If your wife is going to be using the machine put her in the seat of a few and have her drive each around a little. Tell the salesmen the truth. She is buying the tractor. You may get a different perspective from each of the different salesmen. I'm guessing she would not like using a machine with a backhoe mounted on it. Just guessing.
When we stopped in to buy a backpack blower the salesman all but ignored Margaret focusing his introduction on me. I smiled, and said she is buying it. Take it outside and *and have her start it for herself*, because I'm not starting it every time she needs it. Made that mistake with a weed whacker.


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## SweetMK (Feb 6, 2022)

Sandhill Crane said:


> If your wife is going to be using the machine put her in the seat of a few and have her drive each around a little. I'm not starting it every time she needs it. Made that mistake with a weed whacker.


When my daughter moved to the property next to us, I went out and bought a nice used JD 855 with a loader as a gift.
She happened to be at our house when the dealer drove up with the tractor on a deck-over trailer.

I told my daughter to climb up there, and back the tractor off,, I thought her husband was gonna die!!
She did it,, that was when I was sure I had picked the right one,,

Even the driver for the dealer was a little shocked that she could do it,, BUT,,
I had her driving some sort of engine driven machine since she was three,,,


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## husky455rancher (Feb 6, 2022)

Sandhill Crane said:


> If your wife is going to be using the machine put her in the seat of a few and have her drive each around a little. Tell the salesmen the truth. She is buying the tractor. You may get a different perspective from each of the different salesmen. I'm guessing she would not like using a machine with a backhoe mounted on it. Just guessing.
> When we stopped in to buy a backpack blower the salesman all but ignored Margaret focusing his introduction on me. I smiled, and said she is buying it. Take it outside and *and have her start it for herself*, because I'm not starting it every time she needs it. Made that mistake with a weed whacker.



my wife wants me to get the backhoe for sure. She’s not interested in test driving any of them. She did do sit on the ls but no one was at the dealer. To her their all the same and trusts that I’ll make a good decision. She may drive it around a little but it’s one of those things I’ll just have to see what happens.


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## husky455rancher (Feb 6, 2022)

I did get a chance to play with the Massey 1725m Saturday. It’s a very nice machine. I liked it a lot. Backhoe went in and off super easy. It had a quick attach bucket. I measured it and it will fit in my storage box. That’s a big plus cuse I don’t have to come up with another storage solution. He’s supposed to get yanmars in in a week or two. I think that little Massey would suit me just fine. I just gotta decide if I “need” to jump up to the compact sized tractor.


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## Cliff R (Feb 6, 2022)

Absolutely and for sure spend some time with anything you plan on purchasing. I took several tractors off my list after testing them.
Most Youtube videos weren't all that helpful, some were actually difficult to watch, seems like every suburbanite on the planet wants to be a Youtube hero............


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## DiAngelo (Mar 28, 2022)

I bought kx treeshears grapple a year ago and so far so good. It can't be used for anything heavy but on the bright side it's very light to use with my tractor. Can cut and collect smaller woods easily but not sure how much maintenance it will need.


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## husky455rancher (Mar 28, 2022)

I had and idea how to handle the wood less. I made a small wood rack out of a pallet as an experiment. It’s one row and measures out to be a fifth of a cord. I can’t do more than one row because it has to fit through a regular door and I have a baby tractor and 1/5 of a cord is all it is able to lift. So I split the wood and it goes directly onto the rack. Then I go drive the rack to wherever I wanna put it with the tractor and forks to dry. When it’s time to bring the wood in I place it in the cellar on my ramp inside the cellar door. Then I use a small pallet jack to maneuver it in the cellar.

it’s going to work in my mind haha. The fact that I need to make maybe 25 of these for one winters wood isn’t awesome but if it works out it gets stacked that one time then goes right into there stove.
The loaded one was my trial rack. I didn’t wanna cut the top board cuse it was just to see if it worked.
The other one was made outta pallet scrap. I wanna make it as easy as possible but not a total piece of crap that won’t hold the wood. It’s a work in progress b it you get the idea.


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## husky455rancher (Mar 28, 2022)

Couple obligatory tractor/splitter shots


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## bbxlr8 (Mar 30, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> I had and idea how to handle the wood less.



I love the concept, but at first glance, it looks top heavy & easy to dump. I am hopeful & keep us posted on how it works in practice. 

I have been burning solid for the last 12 years and go through about a guesstimated 5 cords per year. I am constantly thinking and working on reducing the number of "touches" / times that I handle the same piece. 

NOW that I have the tractor, I have moved the splitting & storage area away from the house (much less mess up close). However, it's not great and I am in an interim mode where I stack / store on pallets there. As needed, I am hand loading & dumping a couple of buckets in a pile on pallets by my basement access (WS in down there). Got me by OK & pretty easy in the grand scheme of things, but not a good plan long term.

FWIW: I like & want to try the BLC (bulk liquid container) cages but haven't been able to find them for a reasonable price in my area. In some areas people can get them free like reg pallets

edit - nice job on clearing the yard!


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## JRM (Mar 30, 2022)

I made containers from pallets and plastic netting I found at Tractor supply. Designed to keep pests out. I bought a 7ft roll by I think 100 ft long and cut the roll in half with a Sawzall giving me (2) 3.5ft x 100ft rolls. Wrap the pallet with a section and secure it to the base with 4 precut 2x4's about 3" long each. "Sew" the splice together with thin tie wire. Strong as all get out, and pretty cheap assuming you already have the pallets. The plastic netting is not rigid and floppy at first. I fold it outward in half (now its roughly 1.75ft tall rather than 3.5ft tall). Once you have stacked a few rows you can pull it right back up as the stack grows. I burn all hard wood and have a small L series Kubota, I find that when green stacking to the top of the plastic is about all I can handle. Once the wood is seasoned it is much lighter. 
If anyone is interested I can snap a few pics for clarity, but probably nothing that hasn't been done before.


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## Sawyer Rob (Mar 30, 2022)

I split into half cord boxes that I build, then move them with my tractor,







OR, I split right into my "self unloading" trailer,






My splitter pushes the splits right into it.

SR


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## SweetMK (Mar 30, 2022)

Sawyer Rob said:


> OR, I split right into my "self unloading" trailer,
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I used a wagon like that one for firewood one year,,
The problem was by the time I got to the house, all of the firewood had been spread across the field!  

I think that wagon would just go  anytime something was loaded into it,,,


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## SweetMK (Mar 30, 2022)

bbxlr8 said:


> ,,,, NOW that I have the tractor, I have moved the splitting & storage area away from the house (much less mess up close). I like & want to try the BLC (bulk liquid container) cages but haven't been able to find them for a reasonable price in my area.
> edit - nice job on clearing the yard!


If you do move to containerized wood storage,, consider finding a way to move the wood with the 3 point hitch, rather than the loader.
My neighbor got forks for his loader, then containers for the wood, he was ready for WINTER!
Well, we had a wet year, the narrow front tires just sunk out of sight.
Even with 4WD,, the 30HP Kubota could not move the bins full of wood.

That winter, he had to move small amounts to the bucket, just to get wood to the house.

The NEXT winter he had forks for the 3 point hitch,, the rear tires did not sink, he was back to moving full bins, 
even when it was wet,,,


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## Sawyer Rob (Mar 30, 2022)

SweetMK said:


> I used a wagon like that one for firewood one year,,
> The problem was by the time I got to the house, all of the firewood had been spread across the field!
> 
> I think that wagon would just go  anytime something was loaded into it,,,


 You not only can heap the wood on it as high as you can, and it will "easily" unload the splits off the back too... No problem at all...

SR


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## SweetMK (Mar 30, 2022)

Sawyer Rob said:


> You not only can heap the wood on it as high as you can, and it will "easily" unload the splits off the back too... No problem at all...
> 
> SR


Could you rotate and sharpen the beater bars,, so that it will split the wood, as it unloads??


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## Sawyer Rob (Mar 30, 2022)

No, I let them throw and stack the splits into my half cord boxes...

You just have to get the RPM just right...

SR


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## bbxlr8 (Mar 30, 2022)

Sawyer Rob said:


> You not only can heap the wood on it as high as you can, and it will "easily" unload the splits off the back too... No problem at all...
> 
> SR


I also have a 25y/o "franken-trailer" that I use with my jeep. 4x8x3h I know when it groans and sits the fenders down on the tires that's enough and time to remove a few rounds!


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## bbxlr8 (Mar 30, 2022)

SweetMK said:


> If you do move to containerized wood storage,, consider finding a way to move the wood with the 3 point hitch, rather than the loader.
> My neighbor got forks for his loader, then containers for the wood, he was ready for WINTER!
> Well, we had a wet year, the narrow front tires just sunk out of sight.
> Even with 4WD,, the 30HP Kubota could not move the bins full of wood.
> ...


Thanks for the suggestion. I have looked at those but run a BH normally. I am going to invest in forks for the front next. I can't find any decent ssqa ones used around here


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## bbxlr8 (Mar 30, 2022)

JRM said:


> I made containers from pallets and plastic netting I found at Tractor supply. Designed to keep pests out. I bought a 7ft roll by I think 100 ft long and cut the roll in half with a Sawzall giving me (2) 3.5ft x 100ft rolls. Wrap the pallet with a section and secure it to the base with 4 precut 2x4's about 3" long each. "Sew" the splice together with thin tie wire. Strong as all get out, and pretty cheap assuming you already have the pallets. The plastic netting is not rigid and floppy at first. I fold it outward in half (now its roughly 1.75ft tall rather than 3.5ft tall). Once you have stacked a few rows you can pull it right back up as the stack grows. I burn all hard wood and have a small L series Kubota, I find that when green stacking to the top of the plastic is about all I can handle. Once the wood is seasoned it is much lighter.
> If anyone is interested I can snap a few pics for clarity, but probably nothing that hasn't been done before.



@JRM - I _think_ I get it but would love to see a pic when you get a chance. 

This may work as a further mod to what @husky455rancher is doing with those smaller pallets


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## Sawyer Rob (Mar 30, 2022)

bbxlr8 said:


> I also have a 25y/o "franken-trailer" that I use with my jeep. 4x8x3h I know when it groans and sits the fenders down on the tires that's enough and time to remove a few rounds!


 Mine can't do that, no fenders and no springs to sag, and waaaay over built...






SR


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## husky455rancher (Mar 30, 2022)

bbxlr8 said:


> I love the concept, but at first glance, it looks top heavy & easy to dump. I am hopeful & keep us posted on how it works in practice.
> 
> I have been burning solid for the last 12 years and go through about a guesstimated 5 cords per year. I am constantly thinking and working on reducing the number of "touches" / times that I handle the same piece.
> 
> ...



thanks, the yard is coming along pretty good. I still got a good amount to do but it’s a big improvement. One stump is still there it’s tough and I’m a backhoe noob. I’m sure my lack of experience isn’t helping in that aspect.

I use 5 cord a year too. I’m hoping it will be stable enough to move around. I got shipping confirmation on my pallet jack today so when it comes in I’ll try it with some green wood.

I was thinking about the Ibc totes as well. The value of them for me would be where I could move the wood next to the door but u would still have to load up my cart to bring it in. So in reality it’s the same amount of work if I just stack it in a pile in the yard. All it saves is the distance I have to use my motorized cart. That’s why I like the narrow rack idea. Hopefully I can place it inside the door without it falling down. Then move it with the pallet jack inside the cellar.


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## husky455rancher (Mar 30, 2022)

JRM said:


> I made containers from pallets and plastic netting I found at Tractor supply. Designed to keep pests out. I bought a 7ft roll by I think 100 ft long and cut the roll in half with a Sawzall giving me (2) 3.5ft x 100ft rolls. Wrap the pallet with a section and secure it to the base with 4 precut 2x4's about 3" long each. "Sew" the splice together with thin tie wire. Strong as all get out, and pretty cheap assuming you already have the pallets. The plastic netting is not rigid and floppy at first. I fold it outward in half (now its roughly 1.75ft tall rather than 3.5ft tall). Once you have stacked a few rows you can pull it right back up as the stack grows. I burn all hard wood and have a small L series Kubota, I find that when green stacking to the top of the plastic is about all I can handle. Once the wood is seasoned it is much lighter.
> If anyone is interested I can snap a few pics for clarity, but probably nothing that hasn't been done before.


I would like to see some pics of how you do it.


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## fields_mj (Mar 31, 2022)

husky455rancher said:


> I had and idea how to handle the wood less. I made a small wood rack out of a pallet as an experiment. It’s one row and measures out to be a fifth of a cord.


I have a friend with a walk out basement and he does it this way. He had welded frames made for his and he has a base with wheels that he can set them on with the tractor. Once he has the rack on the base, he wheels it into the basement, and into his furnace room. Works great for him.


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## bbxlr8 (Mar 31, 2022)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Mine can't do that, no fenders and no springs to sag, and waaaay over built...


Now that is a beast! I LIKE it. Mine is unsound so I am planning on v 4.0 as something similar with all of the angle iron that I salvaged from the old-style 69kv tower on my property that the power company replaced with a monopole. I have related that saga in other threads previously - the whole project was a cluster 

My dilemma is figuring out how to safely weld on it because of the corrosion coatings. I am thinking of grinding it down to bare metal and still wearing a respirator. Too much good steel to not use it somehow


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## Sawyer Rob (Mar 31, 2022)

bbxlr8 said:


> Now that is a beast! I LIKE it. Mine is unsound so I am planning on v 4.0 as something similar with all of the angle iron that I salvaged from the old-style 69kv tower on my property that the power company replaced with a monopole. I have related that saga in other threads previously - the whole project was a cluster


 I bought this one for $300.00, I plan to do the same thing to it,






It should hold quite a few splits, about twice as many as my other "self-unloading" trailer....






SR


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