# What's the real difference between Stihl Professional vs. Mid-Range Products



## dgj32784 (Aug 23, 2012)

I ran a MS310 for years around the house for firewood and the occasional odd job and it was a reliable workhorse. I've now started doing more tree work on the side (mostly felling when someone wants something gone). I sold my MS310 a while back to offset the costs of picking up a lightly used 066, which I use for more significant sawing (and milling in the near future). Anyways, my forearms are tired of limbing with the 066 and I'd like to pick up a small- to mid-range saw for some in-tree use and on the ground limbing (and smaller bucking).

My question is what's the real difference between the small- to mid-range powerheads in the Professional versus Mid-range (Farm & Ranch Saws) product lines? The reason I ask is because the cost difference is significant. I would think that the financial investment in a Professional saw might not be warranted for someone who is not using the saw at least weekly. I can get a MS311 for a couple hundred less than a MS362, which is the crux of my post. Is there anything about the Professional line that would justify me making the additional investment? I’m probably looking at a monthly use frequency. Your thoughts on the subject are appreciated.

Thanks,
David


----------



## kodiakyardboy (Aug 23, 2012)

The pro saws vertically split case is more condusive to being repaired vs the clamshell design. It essentially is a lifetime investment because it can all be replaced.


----------



## SawTroll (Aug 23, 2012)

Stihl doesn't really have any mid-range models currently - the ones they call "mid-range" really is pure consumer models, as they have plastic crank cases and a clamshell design.


----------



## H 2 H (Aug 23, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> Stihl doesn't really have any mid-range models currently -* the ones they call "mid-range" really is pure consumer models, as they have plastic crank cases and a clamshell design*.




Plastic "CRANK CASE" you been drinking again ST :jester:


----------



## MyTreeServices (Aug 23, 2012)

here a good set up if u do tree part time, 

Stihl 026- with 14 to 16 inches bar
Stihl 044 with 18 to 20 inches bar
066 with 24 to 32 inches bar
Shorter is the bar faster they cut.


----------



## Stihl-Pioneer (Aug 23, 2012)

I would seriously consider the MS261 if your thinking of the MS311. Cost is not much difference, power is not a real big difference and the weight is a large difference plus its a true pro saw. Limbing will be easier and so will climbing if you need to.


----------



## Reyn (Aug 23, 2012)

Stihl-Pioneer said:


> I would seriously consider the MS261 if your thinking of the MS311. Cost is not much difference, power is not a real big difference and the weight is a large difference plus its a true pro saw. Limbing will be easier and so will climbing if you need to.




This is what I was thinking. The MS261 will be a middle ground on price and I would think plenty for limbing.


----------



## stihl waters (Aug 23, 2012)

Reyn said:


> This is what I was thinking. The MS261 will be a middle ground on price and I would think plenty for limbing.
> 
> I'll second that,I run a 261 everyday and it very well may be the best smaller saw I've ever owned. I hate using anything else. Mine is set up with 3/8 16in. bar & chain and it has great power in spruce/hardwood up to 18-20in. Although I've cut bigger with it. You can't go wrong with a 261. I basically bought mine on indiansprings recommendation on here and I'm very glad I did !!!!!


----------



## SawTroll (Aug 23, 2012)

H 2 H said:


> Plastic "CRANK CASE" you been drinking again ST :jester:



Maybe you have - I don't see what was wrong with my post. :msp_biggrin:


----------



## SawTroll (Aug 23, 2012)

Reyn said:


> This is what I was thinking. The MS261 will be a middle ground on price and I would think plenty for limbing.



That one isn't very good for limbing, as it doesn't handle nor accellerate well enough - a 346xp or 550xp would be much nicer for that! :msp_biggrin:


----------



## stihl waters (Aug 23, 2012)

I give up,SawTroll you're too much !!:msp_wink:


----------



## SilverKing (Aug 23, 2012)

I might get ran outta here for this,but I just really aint all that impressed with the 260.It is light and easy to handle ,but to me it seems a little on the weak side.Or just maybe over hyped.If you use a saw once a month,maintain it ,store it correctly,a pro saw will last you a lifetime.It will be lighter and easier to handle.On the other hand,a mid range saw will probably last a lifetime to.Sharp chain,good clean mix,and keep the carb adjusted right,those things are what its all about.I bought a Stihl 271,its a good saw,cuts fast,I think its light and well balanced,and it didnt break the bank


----------



## blsnelling (Aug 23, 2012)

There are no Stihl saws with a plastic crankcase. The homeowner and midgrade saws are clamshell engines that drop into a plastic chassis. The engines themselves are all metal. The Husky 350 comes to mind as a saw with a 1/2 plastic crankcase, with the top half being metal.


----------



## hangfirew8 (Aug 23, 2012)

blsnelling said:


> There are no Stihl saws with a plastic crankcase. The homeowner and midgrade saws are clamshell engines that drop into a plastic chassis. The engines themselves are all metal. The Husky 350 comes to mind as a saw with a 1/2 plastic crankcase, with the top half being metal.



It's hard to imagine a 290 having a plastic crankcase and still weighing so much...

HF


----------



## roostersgt (Aug 23, 2012)

I'd say the main difference is in the porting. With the exception of the complete engine bolting into a plastic case, there really are not too many differences, especially when it comes to the quality of parts. All are manufactured the same, except some parts of the "pro" series are made with magnesium. This has absolutely no affect on wear-out etc... Magnesium breaks as easily as plastic in my experience, sometimes much easier.


----------



## H 2 H (Aug 24, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> Stihl doesn't really have any mid-range models currently - the ones they call "mid-range" really is pure consumer models, as they have *plastic crank cases* and a clamshell design.







SawTroll said:


> Maybe you have - I don't see what was wrong with my post. :msp_biggrin:



Never seen or heard of a Stihl chainsaw in today's market with a plastic crank case; show use pictures of one



blsnelling said:


> There are no Stihl saws with a plastic crankcase. The homeowner and midgrade saws are clamshell engines that drop into a plastic chassis. The engines themselves are all metal. The Husky 350 comes to mind as a saw with a 1/2 plastic crankcase, with the top half being metal.



How much has ST been drinking :hmm3grin2orange:

So there is a Husky chain saw that has a 1/2 plastic crank case; I didn't know that


----------



## deye223 (Aug 24, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> Stihl doesn't really have any mid-range models currently - the ones they call "mid-range" really is pure consumer models, as they have plastic crank cases and a clamshell design.



hmmmm i don't see no plastic here


----------



## sodbreaker (Aug 24, 2012)

Not to reinvent the wheel here, but wouldn't a "clamshell" design be better in that the engine could be replaced as an entire sub-assembly. Instead of built as part of the case of the saw.


----------



## mountainlake (Aug 24, 2012)

sodbreaker said:


> Not to reinvent the wheel here, but wouldn't a "clamshell" design be better in that the engine could be replaced as an entire sub-assembly. Instead of built as part of the case of the saw.



Changing a [email protected] is easy on a split case saw, 4 bolts and the cylinder is off but if changing bearing the clamshell would be a lot easyier. Most pro saws will have better power to wieght by quite a bit and I'd think they use higher qualty parts inside the engine. Steve


----------



## sodbreaker (Aug 24, 2012)

mountainlake said:


> Changing a [email protected] is easy on a split case saw, 4 bolts and the cylinder is off but if changing bearing the clamshell would be a lot easyier. Most pro saws will have better power to wieght by quite a bit and I'd think they use higher qualty parts inside the engine. Steve



So the integrated crank case is done to save weight?


----------



## mountainlake (Aug 24, 2012)

I don't think it saves any wieght as there are some light clamshell saws made, don't know why the 290-390 Stihls are as heavy as they are. One other thing why even bother making the 290 or 310 when it can't cost more than a cuople dollars more to make a 390. Steve


----------



## Mpbowyer (Aug 24, 2012)

To go from a "homeowner" bicycle to a "professional" bicycle, you're talking $400 to $4,000
To go from a "general use" car to a "race" car is $4,000 to $40,000.
To go from a cheap RC car to a "hobbyist" RC car is $50 to $450.

Chainsaws are one of the only things where the difference between "general use" products, and "THE BEST IN THE WORLD" products is only ~30%. When I was shopping for my saw I was in disbelief that if a guy needed a 4.5hp saw, farm saw was $560, and the pro saw was only $710. I would have expected the pro saw to be at least double.

When I showed that to the War Department, she said, "yea, just cut down another tree." When I showed her videos of ported vs. stock saws, she said, "yea, just cut down another tree."

Its literally just ONE 2 hour job difference. Its not like this bucket truck vs. that bucket truck that'll take years to make up the difference. It is two hours.

I understand that the OP's question wasn't "should I get a pro saw", but rather, "is the difference of a pro saw worth $200". My answer is that the difference would have to be so minute to make it worth $200, even using once a month, that yes it is worth it.


----------



## missedbass (Aug 26, 2012)

I think you need to run a pro saw and a similar mid range saw to get the answer. 261 vs 271. Anyone run both long enough to answer the op's question?


----------



## SawTroll (Aug 26, 2012)

deye223 said:


> hmmmm i don't see no plastic here



Not there, each seems to have a different opinion on this - but what I see is a small metal insert bottom piece that is just an insert, in a plastic case. All clamshells I know of is some variation over that basic way to do it.


----------



## saw dog (Aug 26, 2012)

Buy a MS460R, they do it all. Best production saw on the market and last a life time if properly maintained.


----------



## sunfish (Aug 26, 2012)

What is the difference between 'Mid-Range' and the lower Stihl models? 

With Husky, you have a mag case and pro quality, but with less power in the 'Mid-Range'.

Not trying to start anything, but this is the first I've heard 'Mid-Range' with Stihl. :msp_mellow:


----------



## SawTroll (Aug 26, 2012)

sunfish said:


> What is the difference between 'Mid-Range' and the lower Stihl models?
> 
> With Husky, you have a mag case and pro quality, but with less power in the 'Mid-Range'.
> 
> Not trying to start anything, but this is the first I've heard 'Mid-Range' with Stihl. :msp_mellow:



Stihl use "mid range" as a way to market their larger consumer class saws (at least in the catalogs), in about the same way Husky currently uses "rancher". It is just marketing, and not even close to what I would call semi-pro. Earlier, "rancher" meant semi-pro with a mag case, but not so by now.

As you surely know, Husky still makes some true "semi-pro" saws, but they don't use that designation. The 555 and 545 are among those, as was the 353 and 359 - I would say the 365 also is, and the 570 (now history).


----------



## RLfailuer (Apr 17, 2016)




----------



## rageej (Apr 18, 2016)

Polycarbonate = synthetic resin = plastic = @SawTroll for the win.


----------



## Lowhog (Apr 18, 2016)

SilverKing said:


> I might get ran outta here for this,but I just really aint all that impressed with the 260.It is light and easy to handle ,but to me it seems a little on the weak side.Or just maybe over hyped.If you use a saw once a month,maintain it ,store it correctly,a pro saw will last you a lifetime.It will be lighter and easier to handle.On the other hand,a mid range saw will probably last a lifetime to.Sharp chain,good clean mix,and keep the carb adjusted right,those things are what its all about.I bought a Stihl 271,its a good saw,cuts fast,I think its light and well balanced,and it didnt break the bank


From what I read the ms260 is 3.2 hp and the new ms261 is 4.0 hp. I have the older model ms260. ms291 is the same weight as the ms271 and more hp when needed. Why buy a 271?


----------



## RLfailuer (Apr 18, 2016)

Lowhog said:


> From what I read the ms260 is 3.2 hp and the new ms261 is 4.0 hp. I have the older model ms260. ms291 is the same weight as the ms271 and more hp when needed. Why buy a 271?



Direct from their product pages you are correct, the 271 runs 3.49 HP @ 12.3 lbs., and the 291 runs 3.76 HP @ 12.3 lbs.
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/ms271/
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/ms291/

Up until recently the reason to get the MS 271 over the MS 291 was the price, 271 was @ $399 and the 291 was @ $499. Not really much different for $100. About 2 months ago they dropped the MSRP down to $449 though, making the 291 more attractive for the price. The reason I went with the MS 270 is because it was traded in by a local golf course and with a little loving I had a great running saw for < $100.


----------



## VA 372xp (Apr 18, 2016)

If you run a homeowner style saw have good sharp chains and your really won't have much difference then the pros as they cut bit better with a dull chain I have made plenty of money with just a 359 husqvarna


----------



## a. palmer jr. (Apr 18, 2016)

kodiakyardboy said:


> The pro saws vertically split case is more condusive to being repaired vs the clamshell design. It essentially is a lifetime investment because it can all be replaced.


 Uh, so can the clam shell design. I've replaced tons of parts on them this year. You can even replace the case if need be. Some say they're harder to work on but it depends on what you're replacing.


----------

