# Secondary screening for stump grinding



## stumpgo (May 28, 2008)

Neither of the two current threads on chip containment mention this. 

As I work mainly in tight packed urban settings with plenty of stone and typically loads of other hazards I find that I rarely grind a stump without the use of some secondary screening. In the certain knowledge that stone or stone fragments etc can exit the machine in virtually any direction, sometimes at awesome velocity.

A couple of units of this type or similar can be carried on the grinder and set up in about the time it takes to inspect the stump zone.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CONTRACTOR-MO...VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247
Further, I carry more extreme screening (for roadside use, protecting specific breakables etc.)

I work a different business model to most of you in that I am essentially a contractors contractor and charge a flat hourly rate for all related activities, including travel; risk assessment; set up; changing cutters (& even a 10 minute break every 2 hours!). Thus setting up screening changes from being a chore to one of my most profitable activities - time but near zero cost.

I do not remove debris from site; if its a part of the job spec. then it is up to the landscapers/tree firm to arrange. Like most of you I reckon I loose virtually no contracts by taking this stance.
If debris is to be removed then turning up, by arrangement, before the tree gang has tidied up and left site is by far the best option. - make the mess; then leave!

Finally a comment on sucking up chips. I do work for one golf club that uses a tractor powered/mounted vacuum that exits into a high lift tipping box arrangement. It is extremely efficient at handling clean chippings. But is not suitable for material containing damp soil, which tends to coat and bung up the pipework etc.


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## arbor pro (May 28, 2008)

Anyone here in the states using debris screens when you grind stumps? If so, what kind is it, who did you buy it from, how much did it cost and, most importantly, what are the good and bad points of the screen.

I usually just carry along a piece of plywood or some other screen material but am curious about screens made specifically for this purpose.


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## gr8scott72 (May 28, 2008)

arbor pro said:


> Anyone here in the states using debris screens when you grind stumps? If so, what kind is it, who did you buy it from, how much did it cost and, most importantly, what are the good and bad points of the screen.
> 
> I usually just carry along a piece of plywood or some other screen material but am curious about screens made specifically for this purpose.



I have a piece of plywood that is cut into 2 4x4 sections and hinged together.


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## bombdude (May 28, 2008)

gr8scott72 said:


> I have a piece of plywood that is cut into 2 4x4 sections and hinged together.



Same here. I cut up a sheet of plywood into 4 2'x4' pieces. Hinged them together & cut out some carry handles. Makes 2 screens. I use them if I get close to something.


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## Plyscamp (May 29, 2008)

I decided years ago that plywood was a PITA. We use a system similar to the modular unit that we make ourselves. For each screen we use 3ea. 1.5" diameter wooden poles 6 foot long and 12 feet of the mesh screen they use on Greenhouses. All the materials are readily available at Home Depot. To assist staking the poles in the ground we buy 1/2" Lag Bolts 16 inches long. Drill the poles on one end and thread in the lag bolts, cut off the head on the lag bolt then sharpen the end of the bolt on a grinder.

Once the poles are made attach the screen on each end to the poles. We use a combination of glue and screws. For the center pole drive a nail or shooter screw at the top of the pole horizontally. This allows the center pole to be placed anywhere within the 12 foot span, as you mearly hook the nail in the mesh anywhere along the span. Makes it real easy to set up angles and corners.

Nice thing about these screens unlike plywood is they are light weight, strong and roll up to about 8 inches in diameter but still stand a full 6 foot tall when in use. I work out of a 6' X 10' enclosed trailer and plywood is not a viable option for me. I have a simple rack on the inside roof that holds 3 of these screens.

Down side is heat from mufflers will melt the mesh if you get to close and don't snag them with the grinder teeth.


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## stevieb (May 29, 2008)

I dont think you can ever take the risk not to use a screen. I was once working at a school grinding a stump approx 100ft away from any danger. I shot a good 2" dia pebble the whole stretch of the hard standing playing field. Also had many occations even with screens that a good size stone has just had the right angle to fly over. Those ebay screens look pricy compared to what you can make your self.


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## stumpgo (May 30, 2008)

...."Those ebay screens look pricy compared to what you can make your self...."

Agreed, especially as 2-3 units would be best. But that's what they cost & they do offer some advantages over what can easily be made at home. - the narrow panels with sliding hinges allow a stable set up in otherwise tricky situations; eg steps.

My other mainstay is an evolution of the standard 5 pole wind-break. Firstly, the option to slot it into a a hinged steel A frame. Thus once set up it up can all be moved around as a unit.
And then there is the material. Mesh offers very real benefits when its a bit windy. I've settled on a heavy duty rubberised close mesh, commonly seen as top sheets on skips etc. These I get made up by a local custom sheet maker for about £40.


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## stevieb (May 30, 2008)

I used to use the camping/beach wind break when I started up. 6/mtrs total. Worked great when you were on soft ground but failed on hard standing. Screen protection is an old debate. Trying to find a good fast method. On some jobs I can spend more time screening then actual grinding. I currently use the orange road side barriers on which I then use plastic tarps with spring clamps to give me my arrangement. This works great. But they take up space and take time. Have you actually purchased the ebay screens? if so are they really worth the money?


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## stumpgo (May 30, 2008)

"...Have you actually purchased the ebay screens? if so are they really worth the money?

I have one, not from ebay, that I've had about a year.

The quality is adequate, but not great. Thinking of buying a second one, basically because they are so convenient. They can hang off the machine for travel, then just picked up and placed; almost instant.


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## stevieb (May 30, 2008)

How do they free stand. I can see them supporting themselves when angled but in windy conditions and also on uneven ground can you adjust the individual hight.


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## dave k (May 30, 2008)

I have 5 sets of those guards, 3 of the first red frame type and 2 of the yellow ones. The yellow type have a much better mesh covering. As a rule I carry two sets and three small sand bags to hold them steady in windy conditions. Apart from the saftey they provide they also keep the chippings in a small area so aid clean up ! When working in very high risk areas i.e motoryways,railway etc I use the anti climb fencing 6' high by about 10' long and drape the green mesh net as used on scaffold over the fence panels. 

In UK Fletcher-Stewart do the modular guards at about £130 and I think I saw them on Sherril's web page ? They are so easy to use and I find they take a fair bit of abuse


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## stevieb (May 30, 2008)

Thanks for that tip Dave. They have a depot just up the road from me.


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## stumpgo (May 31, 2008)

Good to hear that the yellow panels have improved meshing. That probably means its time to buy another one. (This system entered the market at about £240!)

The hinges/clips are quite cunning. As well as letting the panels slide up and down relative to each other there is also a degree of movement that allows them to tilt relative to each other. In effect the screen will tend to follow a contour when placed, then stay there.
(That said, these hinges/clips weaken their grip with use; then can fall off. - Experience says they can take half an hour to find when this happens. A better option is to loosely attach them on one side with cable ties from the outset.)

Wind, especially the gusty sort, is a problem for which there is no perfect solution. It would be quite easy to fit removable spikes, I believe they are also a purchase option. More often than not I find skewering a panel to the ground with a fork works pretty well. 

Like Dave I use modified Harris tempory fencing for serious screening, for which I carry 3 of the large rubber support blocks. These blocks can be used to hold lesser screening in place in pretty much any conditions.


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## treemandan (May 31, 2008)

I saw a guy take out the rear window of his pickup with a tow behind but I have groung tons of stumps in front of windows without a problem. I do bring plywood these days.


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## Creeker (Jun 8, 2008)

I made up four screen frames. 6FT x 4FT. Used 1 1/4" sq. section steel, out of a 20ft length you make one screen, (little waste).
Cut 2 x 6Ft and 2 x 4FT pieces. Weld up into rectangle with the horizontal 6FT pieces about 1 1/2" from the ends of the 4FT pieces, this helped when fixing mesh. Found some white sun shade mesh in the shed and sewed it on using cord. Light enoungh to carry two at a time. Place them in front of grinder in a V and fix by placing a U shaped piece of 5/16" steel rod made from about 8" of the rod. The U rod ends go in the top of the 1 1/4" frame at the point you have in front of you, say the bottom of the V. They cost me about Au$22. each and can be transported by putting of the trailer floor and parking the grinder on top. Should have worked out how to sew on single thickness of shade cloth though as the fine dirt and chips tend to deposit between the layers. Easy enough to shake/kick out. Two are all I have completed at this stage and seem to be adequate on my jobs. Orange mesh would be better from an OH&S viewpoint. You don't have to push anything into the ground and the 6FT length on either side of the V seems to make them quite secure. If anyone needs to find out more from my clear as mud description then get back to me.


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## Oly's Stump (Jun 8, 2008)

I use the screening alot more now then I use too. I traded in my 2002 Rayco RG50 last week for a 2008 RG50 Super. I noticed the super with the larger wheel spits out more debris out the front. I purchased the expensive commercially made screening some years ago. The cross supports broke out right away on the thing so I cut them off. I bought three of the heavy bases they offer and the screening works good now.


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## Gunsmoke (Jun 15, 2008)

I used construction fence/ snow fence (the orange kind). 4 pieces of elec. conduit and to create a sharp piece to stick in the ground I used a elec fence post and cut it in to 4 sections and welded them in to the bottom of the conduit. It has worked well... I also use my alturna mats at times to lean in front of windows I feel are at danger.


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## bushinspector (Jun 29, 2008)

Hey Gunsmoke, anyway to post some pics of your set up???


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## BC WetCoast (Jul 3, 2008)

Couple of 4x6 sheets of 1/8" plywood. I hold them up with pickfork, shovel or pick stuck in the ground. Simple, fast and highly adaptable to the situation.


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## Hoosier (Sep 1, 2008)

I need some of these that are store bought. I do most of my work in high end residential neighborhoods with pools or hadite instead of mulch and I must start keeping the chips contained. I want a fancy one, where do I get one? I cannot seem to find anything on Ebay or the www?


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## gr8scott72 (Sep 1, 2008)

Hoosier said:


> I need some of these that are store bought. I do most of my work in high end residential neighborhoods with pools or hadite instead of mulch and I must start keeping the chips contained. I want a fancy one, where do I get one? I cannot seem to find anything on Ebay or the www?



Build your own like on the first page of this thread. I did and it took me about 4-5 hours and cost about $60 for all the materials including a PVC carrier. All available at Lowe's/Home Depot.


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## Hoosier (Sep 1, 2008)

gr8scott72 said:


> Build your own like on the first page of this thread. I did and it took me about 4-5 hours and cost about $60 for all the materials including a PVC carrier. All available at Lowe's/Home Depot.



Would you post a pic of yours for me? That would be too great and then I could build one to... (Sorry, had to) too) two?)


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## stevieb (Sep 1, 2008)

Would be nice to see some pics of what you all use and the pro's and con's of using it.


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## gr8scott72 (Sep 1, 2008)

stevieb said:


> Would be nice to see some pics of what you all use and the pro's and con's of using it.



Pics, I'll do soon. Pros and cons will have to wait as I've yet to use it. The sandvik wheel throws so few chips.


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## idahohay (Sep 30, 2008)

I use sheets of plywood about 4' square hinged with rope.(4 holes per edge) They will free stand with the hinge verticle or with the hinge on top. My current stumper is an RC100 with a Mlller grinder. If I don't shield it, it will trash the yard and the neighbors.
hr


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## juststumps (Sep 30, 2008)

Hoosier said:


> I need some of these that are store bought. I do most of my work in high end residential neighborhoods with pools or hadite instead of mulch and I must start keeping the chips contained. I want a fancy one, where do I get one? I cannot seem to find anything on Ebay or the www?



there is an AD in the TREE TRADER , for a stump grinding screen.. i think its $285 ... i threw the last issue out..


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## gr8scott72 (Oct 1, 2008)

juststumps said:


> there is an AD in the TREE TRADER , for a stump grinding screen.. i think its $285 ... i threw the last issue out..



I made one like described in page one. It works great.


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## juststumps (Oct 1, 2008)

gr8scott72 said:


> I made one like described in page one. It works great.



scott , that looks like it will work as good as the in the TREE TRADER....what is the screen material you are using ? looks a lot easier that leaning sheets of plywood all over the place !!!


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## gr8scott72 (Oct 1, 2008)

juststumps said:


> scott , that looks like it will work as good as the in the TREE TRADER....what is the screen material you are using ? looks a lot easier that leaning sheets of plywood all over the place !!!



The green material is awning screen found in the garden section at home depot.

Total cost was about $60 and took me about 3 hours to make it all.


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## juststumps (Oct 2, 2008)

gr8scott72 said:


> The green material is awning screen found in the garden section at home depot.
> 
> Total cost was about $60 and took me about 3 hours to make it all.



thanks,, i was looking at buying a big tent, and cutting it in half..getting the poles and stakes with it.... but it doesn't come in that much cheaper, than the premade screen...

was going to use poly tarps,,but, once you unfold them ,, they take up ten times the space, then the little flat package they came in !!!!!!

that stuff roll up easy ???? thanks stumps


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## gr8scott72 (Oct 2, 2008)

juststumps said:


> that stuff roll up easy ???? thanks stumps




This small enuf for you?


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## juststumps (Oct 3, 2008)

scott,,, that will work !!!! really well !! THANKS


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## bombdude (Oct 6, 2008)

Man, I now know what my next improvement project will be. Thanks for sharing that idea, Scott.


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## gr8scott72 (Oct 6, 2008)

bombdude said:


> Man, I now know what my next improvement project will be. Thanks for sharing that idea, Scott.



I know what MY next project is. Cleaning that nasty Durango. lol


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## dave k (Oct 6, 2008)

As well as the factory made guards I've also started using the same green mesh as Scott, I use 10mm dia. steel rods 64" long with 4" piece welded on 10" from the bottom of the rod so you use your foot to push the rod into the ground. Found 4 rods at 4 ft apart is ideal and use cable ties to attach the mesh to rods. For glass I've started to use the suction cups that window fitters would use, put them on window and hang furniture blankets from them to absorb any stray stones that escape any other guarding !!


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## Bigstumps (Oct 6, 2008)

gr8scott72 said:


> I made one like described in page one. It works great.





That is great!! I agree the Sandvik doesn't throw much but you can never be too careful.

How are you finding your tracks do on lawns? I know you didn't have to drive on that yard but how would it do on a yard like that if you did have to drive around?


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## gr8scott72 (Oct 6, 2008)

Bigstumps said:


> That is great!! I agree the Sandvik doesn't throw much but you can never be too careful.
> 
> How are you finding your tracks do on lawns? I know you didn't have to drive on that yard but how would it do on a yard like that if you did have to drive around?




I *LOVE* the tracks. The machine is HEAVY. It's 4,300 lbs. The tracks help displace all that weight. The turning really isn't that big of a deal as long as I'm not just skidding it around or doing 180s.

Most of the stump work is done behind tree work where the yard is already DESTROYED from a bucket truck or skid steer.

On the nice lawns, I just have to do gradual turn or a series of forward and back turns.

Once to the stump, if it's of any decent size, I can turn to go to the next stump up on the chip pile and not damage any lawn.

I always look for the most direct path to the stump and the tracks help with that. I often am driving right over the curb from the street and it does great.


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## Bigstumps (Oct 7, 2008)

Not what I wanted to hear - you are going to cost me some money! I have to learn to stay off the internet - especially Ebay!!


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## gr8scott72 (Oct 7, 2008)

Bigstumps said:


> Not what I wanted to hear - you are going to cost me some money! I have to learn to stay off the internet - especially Ebay!!



Here ya go. I'll help you out even more. Mine will get thru this with the push of a button:











and still grind these in about 35-40 minutes:






:greenchainsaw:


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## Creeker (Oct 8, 2008)

G'day GR8 SCOTT,

I have a Carlton SP 4012 in Aus, I see the cover over top of wheel is back in the pic. where you are on the root mass.

Mine was a pain in the A... and I started tying it up, then took it off.

How are you finding that feature of the machine.

Nice looking machine mate, wish I could have to business demand to have one of those track machines as well!!

regards to all in the US.

ps

(The Aus $ was worth up to 96c US month ago, now about 67cUS. Hope every one over there hangs in and goes OK if it gets tighter)


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## gr8scott72 (Oct 8, 2008)

Creeker said:


> G'day GR8 SCOTT,
> 
> I have a Carlton SP 4012 in Aus, I see the cover over top of wheel is back in the pic. where you are on the root mass.
> 
> ...



I leave it up on big stumps for 2 reasons if I'm not pointing at anything valuable.

1. It gets in the way when I'm burried deep in the root ball.

2. It helps spray some of the chips over the top of the stump and out of the way. (If I have to have it down, all the chips stay under the machine and it takes longer if it's a large stump as I'm regrinding the chips each pass.)


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## Creeker (Oct 8, 2008)

They need a factory lock up fixture, understand what you're saying re getting in the way, mine was constantly when getting down near full depth in the stump.

regards.


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## gr8scott72 (Oct 8, 2008)

Creeker said:


> They need a factory lock up fixture, understand what you're saying re getting in the way, mine was constantly when getting down near full depth in the stump.
> 
> regards.



Mine doesn't ever fall down. The gaurd on my old Rayco 1625 did. Probably because it was a smaller machine.


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