# Fiskars Axe is junk!!!!!



## Mr Good Wood (Dec 24, 2011)

What are you guys splitting with this axe, balsa wood? I got the 36in s.s. and gave a 20in green maple round a try. What a joke, the axe is junk as far as i am concerned, the thing has no weight at all to it to get any power on the downswing. really pissed just wasted my time and money, hope home depot takes it back. I am 6' 2" 195 by the way.


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## OH_Varmntr (Dec 24, 2011)

You have to use the sharp edge. :msp_tongue:

Only kidding! Seriously though, I've split some nasty stuff with my X27. I'm 5'11'' 160lbs and have split some walnut rounds that were ~36" across. I couldn't split it down the center so l had to start further out on the round and work my way in. 

Don't confuse it for a maul replacement. It's not a maul, so you can't use it as a maul.


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## Philbert (Dec 24, 2011)

20 inches is a long round to split - but maybe you have been doing that with another maul. Don't know what diameter rounds you have either.

Works for me. I split a full cord of fresh cut silver maple this summer with my X25 and X27 Fiskars. Up to 16 inch length and 16 inch diameter rounds. Only had to noodle or resort to steel wedges on some of the crotch wood. Put my Monster Maul up on Craigslist. 

Home Depot doesn't sell the Fiskars axes around here, but should take yours back if you are not satisfied and have a receipt.

Philbert


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## 4seasons (Dec 24, 2011)

Just curious what you were splitting with before you got the Fiskars? I don't own one myself but I have busted a lot of wood with a 6 and 8 pound maul. As I understand the Fiskars is a different critter and a somewhat different method should be used. I have thought about getting one but no one around here has them in stock and I would like to handle one before I pay 2 times what I can buy a regular maul for one.


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## MacLaren (Dec 24, 2011)

OH_Varmntr said:


> You have to use the sharp edge. :msp_tongue:
> 
> Only kidding! Seriously though, I've split some nasty stuff with my X27. I'm 5'11'' 160lbs and have split some walnut rounds that were ~36" across. I couldn't split it down the center so l had to start further out on the round and work my way in.
> 
> Don't confuse it for a maul replacement. It's not a maul, so you can't use it as a maul.



Exactly. Ive always said its great for what it is. Its no go devil (maul)


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## Ronaldo (Dec 24, 2011)

I like my x25 very well----seems to take less effort than a heavy maul. However,I will not be getting rid of the 8lbs. maul,as it has its place ,too.


Ron


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## Philbert (Dec 24, 2011)

OH_Varmntr said:


> Don't confuse it for a maul replacement. It's not a maul, so you can't use it as a maul.





MacLaren said:


> Exactly. Ive always said its great for what it is. Its no go devil (maul)





Ronaldo said:


> However,I will not be getting rid of the 8lbs. maul,as it has its place ,too.



So how do you guys distinguish between 'maul tasks' and 'Fiskars tasks'?


Philbert


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## MacLaren (Dec 24, 2011)

Philbert said:


> So how do you guys distinguish between 'maul tasks' and 'Fiskars tasks'?
> 
> 
> Philbert



Any big oak I have I just get the go devil. Smaller stuff i use the Fiskars. The Fiskars will handle a lot of stuff though....


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## Soby1 (Dec 24, 2011)

Philbert said:


> So how do you guys distinguish between 'maul tasks' and 'Fiskars tasks'?
> 
> 
> Philbert


 
I give it 4 wacks with fiskars if it does'nt pop it goes to the hydro maul pile.


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## turnkey4099 (Dec 24, 2011)

Soby1 said:


> I give it 4 wacks with fiskars if it does'nt pop it goes to the hydro maul pile.



Examination of th round. Knotty, if I can't split to avoid the knott, then it is time for heavier artillery, crotchy? Heavier artiller unless I can whittle stuff off without doing the crotch.

Halving a 20" round and it isn't splitting on the third strike, finish that with the maul and then go back to fiskar's.

Etc.

Same old, same old. NO tool will do everything. If you try to do every thing with a Fiskar's it will be a disappointment. Do everything with a maul and you will be doing one whale of lot of extra work.

Harry K


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## Philbert (Dec 24, 2011)

Thanks for the feedback.

I don't have a splitter - don't do enough to justify one. Got tired of lifting the big maul.

I use a Fiskars on small to medium sized stuff. Have steel wedges and a sledge to break down larger diameter rounds - then split with the Fiskars. Learned how to noodle really large or crotchy stuff.

Also learned to keep the lengths shorter to split easier. My fireplace insert feeds smaller wood anyway.

Philbert


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## c5rulz (Dec 24, 2011)

MacLaren said:


> Any big oak I have I just get the go devil. Smaller stuff i use the Fiskars. The Fiskars will handle a lot of stuff though....



Is this big oak?


The after pic.







The before.


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## c5rulz (Dec 24, 2011)

Mr Good Wood said:


> What are you guys splitting with this axe, balsa wood? I got the 36in s.s. and gave a 20in green maple round a try. What a joke, the axe is junk as far as i am concerned, the thing has no weight at all to it to get any power on the downswing. really pissed just wasted my time and money, hope home depot takes it back. I am 6' 2" 195 by the way.



I am surprised with your experiance. Rather than trying to split right through the center, take off the sides first and work towards the center.:msp_thumbup:


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## myzamboni (Dec 24, 2011)

A true craftsman never blames his tools . . .

:biggrin:


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## Chris-PA (Dec 24, 2011)

Mr Good Wood said:


> What are you guys splitting with this axe, balsa wood? I got the 36in s.s. and gave a 20in green maple round a try. What a joke, the axe is junk as far as i am concerned, the thing has no weight at all to it to get any power on the downswing. really pissed just wasted my time and money, hope home depot takes it back. I am 6' 2" 195 by the way.


I do not own a Fiskars yet, although I will probably pick one up eventually. However, I split almost all my wood with axes, either 3-1/2lb or 4-1/2lb. I'm 6' and 155lbs. I broke the maul this summer and have not bothered to replace it yet. - I just use the sledge when it's wedge time. 

Using a heavy maul is very different than splitting with a lighter axe - with an axe the key is speed, and if you do it right you end up putting more energy into the hit than you do with a heavier maul. Getting an axe to move fast takes some practice, and there are tricks to it, such as snapping the head down at the end of the swing by lifting with your stomach muscles and knees. I don't have time to dig up the equation again, but basically if you double the weight of the tool, you double the energy you put into the wood (assuming you can swing it just as fast - unlikely). But if you double the speed you quadruple the energy you put into the wood. You also use your muscles differently.

In most of these threads about the Fiskars, I'm seeing a lot of guys who've moved from heavy mauls to the lighter axe - some have found out how much better a faster, lighter, sharper tool works.


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## Ductape (Dec 24, 2011)

Are you using the Pro Splitting axe, or Super Splitting axe ?


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## Hddnis (Dec 24, 2011)

Swung a lot of axes and mauls over the years; I'm no stranger to top quality in both catagories. While I do feel the Fiskars is a little over-hyped, I have found that the shape allows it to split stuff a normal axe will not. It makes a fair incursion into maul territory for the size and weight. I use the SS one with the 36" handle. I tried the others and they just did not fit well at all. I sold them on e-bay for about what I paid for the them, so the demand is high. I believe that finish and coating on the Fiskars is part of the reason they work so well.




Mr. HE


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## OH_Varmntr (Dec 24, 2011)

Philbert said:


> So how do you guys distinguish between 'maul tasks' and 'Fiskars tasks'?
> 
> 
> Philbert



If it's a really big round, I'll just start chunking off the outsides then work in from there. If it's something I _think_ I can get with the Fiskars, if she doesn't give up after 3 or 4 strikes I'll grab the big boy. 

But lately I've been getting better and better with the Fiskars so I've been coming across less "maul tasks" and more "Fiskars tasks". But there are still times when I break out the big boy.


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## Gamedic (Dec 24, 2011)

Sorry to hear about your bad experience with the Fiskars. I have owned mine for about two months. I have split some 16 inch white oak with it with no problems. I compared it with my 8 pound maul back to back by making a swing with one and then switching to the other for the next swing. I found that after about ten minutes I just switched to the Fiskars all together.


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## indiansprings (Dec 24, 2011)

I think they are a little over hyped. They are for sure tough and indestructable. But I can't help believe in basic physics, swing a bigger hammer at the same speed more kinetic energy. The shape of the head helps the Fiskars a little, look at the head of the Stihl splitting axe, my dealer said Fiskars makes both the Stihl Splitting axe and splitting maul, the axe head is pretty similar to the fiskars.
I think they have there place but dang sure aren't a magic wand. We use our 8 lbs old mauls just as much as the Fiskars.


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## zogger (Dec 24, 2011)

I just now walked in from a short Fiskars session, four large rounds, four good wheelbarrows full (which works out to four days wood for me sometime in the future).

OK, here goes, I am getting good at this I can condense it and hit the important parts

It is not a maul, don't swing it like a maul, or think of it like a maul, it ain't, it won't work that way

It works by SPEED not brute force..it WILL take your muscles awhile to get over the muscle memory of swinging a heavy maul and get into the real fast swing necessary for it to work well

On rounds that require more than a few splits to get them to size, work your way around the round, shave off the bark and a little wood first.

Wood that sucks, just sucks. You run into that with anything, monster maul, axe, regular maul, even hydraulic.

For me, I prefer splitting after the rounds have sat and are developing good cracks. That's me, I just don't like doing green wood, and it doesn't freeze hard enough here to do the "frozen solid it blows apart" trick. I mean I like that frozen wood splitting, but I live in jawjah now, not left moose testicle maine..sorta different here...

You stand with legs spread and bring it up over your head, and then straight down-FAST- not sideways like a maul. No speed, no accuracy, no split. Aww shoot..driving a golf ball. You got to get that good before it works well.

It takes some time to get fair to good with it, I am merely in the good range now, not great, but it is by far and away out performing my regular maul and sledge and wedge. I got "fair" with it almost immediately though, because I used to split a ton of my wood with an axe, not a maul, so it came back to me how it is different.

If you get into good wood, you can fly, if it is gnarly twisty string but pops *some* you can hold it apart and shave the strings off. Just be careful

I split on a low block with a tire once the round will fit, for safety sake. I adjust it so the height results in the axe head just coming in perfectly straight and the handle is parallel with the ground when the head hits my target area on the round, that or a little lower, some guys like way low, and it can help to be lower than that, whatever is the most comfortable for you. 

Rock maple is named that for a reason....it should split pretty good once it has the least bit of cracking to it, done a lot before with just a regular old plain vanilla axe. I mean, I get some rounds that suck, when I *know* they should split well, they feel like rubber hitting 'em when first cut and you try to split them. Swell, I let them sit in the pile for awhile, they start cracking, whomp whomp whomp they come apart easy then. I get that all the time. I don't care, go cut some more then, something. They all get split eventually and I always have a pile to play with here, works out OK.

Emphasize, start from the outside and work your way in on big ones, just be real careful of over swing and blow out when you do that. Them suckahs is sharp little guys, tell ya whut, no need to give the doctor store any of your loot....

Good luck, give it some time, don't get mad, go back to your maul for awhile, just experiment around with it. No diff from any other tool, like I doubt most guys here first time they picked up a dremel turned them into master saw builders...

Merry Christmas man, you'll get it, find you some lighter dry pine or ash or something to practice on. Once you get used to it it will get loads easier.


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## trailmaker (Dec 24, 2011)

Mr Good Wood said:


> What are you guys splitting with this axe, balsa wood? I got the 36in s.s. and gave a 20in green maple round a try. What a joke, the axe is junk as far as i am concerned, the thing has no weight at all to it to get any power on the downswing. really pissed just wasted my time and money, hope home depot takes it back. I am 6' 2" 195 by the way.



I wouldn't return it just yet Good Wood. As people have pointed out, the Fiskars relies on head speed to get the job done. Your technique may need to be adjusted for the new lighter axe. Of course it's possible that your technique is fine but the Fiskars just isn't working for you for whatever reason.


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## Dalmatian90 (Dec 24, 2011)

> my dealer said Fiskars makes both the Stihl Splitting axe and splitting maul, the axe head is pretty similar to the fiskars.



Dealer's wrong. The Stihl mauls are made by Iltis Ox, a German firm.

Red Maple, when it grows with it's feet "wet", is the worst wood I regularly split when green. It helps to wait to a nice 20º day when they're frozen solid.

The Red Maple that grows on top of the hill with "dry" feet splits nicely.

Learned early on if the Fiskars, using the overhead technique, didn't split it easily neither would my maul. 

Crotches and the base pieces from Red Oak I usually just noodle then Fiskarize and move on.


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## indiansprings (Dec 24, 2011)

Thanks for the correction, it makes more sense with Stihl having a German company make them.


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## OH_Varmntr (Dec 24, 2011)

indiansprings said:


> But I can't help believe in basic physics, swing a bigger hammer at the same speed more kinetic energy.



That's why the Fiskars work so well. Good luck swinging that 8# bad boy as fast as you can the Fiskars. :msp_thumbup:

Or can you?


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## howellhandmade (Dec 24, 2011)

indiansprings said:


> I think they are a little over hyped. They are for sure tough and indestructable. But I can't help believe in basic physics, swing a bigger hammer at the same speed more kinetic energy. The shape of the head helps the Fiskars a little, look at the head of the Stihl splitting axe, my dealer said Fiskars makes both the Stihl Splitting axe and splitting maul, the axe head is pretty similar to the fiskars.
> I think they have there place but dang sure aren't a magic wand. We use our 8 lbs old mauls just as much as the Fiskars.



Trying to remember the formula for kinetic energy -- I think it's half the mass times velocity squared. So, you need a greater increase in mass than you do in speed to get the same increase in energy. Dealing with a more or less constant power source like a human, in order to increase speed you need to decrease weight. BUT, if you can increase speed enough you can still come out ahead with the decreased weight. That's the Fiskars trick, and it works. Plus the head design is nearly surgical. Some guys would rather increase the mass that greater amount (monster maul), but I like the Fiskars way better.

Two things, though. First, I don't like the X27 as much as the old Super Splitter, and it's the Super Splitter that made the legend. If they'd started out with the X27 I don't think everybody would have raved. The head shape on the X27 is different, with a longer edge, lighter head, and less flare to the cheeks than the SS. It's more like an axe than the SS. The SS is more compact and a better wedge, hits with more pop. I think the shorter handle makes for a snappier and faster swing, too. I think Fiskars made the X27 because people who are used to a long maul kept asking for it, but it's not an SS. Does the X27 gain speed with its longer handle? Maybe for some. For most, I think it's a wash due to the longer, loopier, maul-like swing it encourages, and the lighter head (which I would guess is meant to increase speed) takes it out of the SS butter zone where mass and velocity are optimized for the human power source.

Second, maple can be really miserable to split by hand. It's wet, it's mushy, it doesn't have much grain, and if a round is big enough and you tackle it down the middle you can bury a wedge, let alone a Fiskars, without splitting it. Better to slab off the sides like mentioned already, or let the rounds dry a bit and tighten up. But my experience has been that if a SS won't get it done a maul won't either, so I reach for the wedge. For which I DO need the maul.


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## memory (Dec 24, 2011)

I just recently bought a Fiskars x27 and I love it. Everybody keeps saying the Fiskars does not replace a maul. IMO, it does. I split some stuff with the Fiskars that the 8lb maul would not touch. Even the stuff that the Fiskars had no problem with, just a couple of hits, an 8lb maul could not begin to split it. I am sure if I swung it several more times, it would have split but why work harder than you have to. I will not swing an 8lb maul again unless I need to hit wedges. If the Fiskars will not split it, it goes directly to the hydraulic splitter or it gets noodled. I wish they had this out along time ago.

Also, everybody keeps saying don't swing it like a maul. I don't know what they mean but I swing my Fiskars the exact same way as I did my 8lb maul.


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## MacLaren (Dec 24, 2011)

Both of mine are the old style. I like them a lot.


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## OH_Varmntr (Dec 24, 2011)

memory said:


> Also, everybody keeps saying don't swing it like a maul. I don't know what they mean but I swing my Fiskars the exact same way as I did my 8lb maul.



I swing my Fiskars a bit differently just because I am able to muster up enough energy to really drive her home. My 8# maul doesn't get the same energy behind it because I'm too much of a sissy. :hmm3grin2orange:

As far a replacing my maul, there's times when I need my maul. If I can put 3 or 4 really good hits in on a round, to the point where the head enters the round a good inch and a half and does nothing (you can see penetration depth marks on the head) I'll go for the extra umph of the 8#'er. 

That will usually get me a good crack going, where I pick the X27 back up and finish her off.


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## logbutcher (Dec 24, 2011)

As with any tool or weapon it takes time for Mr. User to get it.
Yup, fresh cut wet Red Maple is a bitc& to split, as some other heliotropic woods ( grows somewhat following the sun: no straight grain such as oaks or ashes ). I fell, buck, trailer, and store until 1/2 dry in spring to split.

One tip I got from here long ago. It will protect your delicate shins from the sharp bite of the Fiskars 'axe'.
Screw a tire ( 15"-18") onto a large DBH stump just about knee high. Logs inside the secured tire will not drop, the tire will protect you from a miss ( you will ), and absorb the force of the axe or maul. Big time and injury saver. 

PM me for the bill.:hmm3grin2orange:


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## indiansprings (Dec 24, 2011)

OH_Varmntr said:


> That's why the Fiskars work so well. Good luck swinging that 8# bad boy as fast as you can the Fiskars. :msp_thumbup:
> 
> Or can you?




I'd say after doing it day after day, growing up driving a lot of wood post with a post maul, I'd prolly be able to swing the 8 pounder just about as fast as the X-27, my size don't hurt any either, pretty good sized ole boy, I'm not saying the Fiskars is a bad tool at all it just another tool in the box. In smaller wood the guys will grab the X-27 in a heartbeat, really big rounds the 8lbs mauls. This year in really nice straight grained wood we are hand splitting more and more, we think it's faster than using our hydraulic splitters, any tough wood goes on the splitters though. I do like the fact I'll never have to buy a handle for the X-27, I keep two or three extra hickory handles behind the seat at all times for the 8 lbs mauls. We'll bust four or five handles every year it seems.


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## VTWoodchuck (Dec 24, 2011)

View attachment 213201

Split this tree with just my fiskars.


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## StubornDutchman (Dec 24, 2011)

Mr Good Wood said:


> What are you guys splitting with this axe, balsa wood? I got the 36in s.s. and gave a 20in green maple round a try. What a joke, the axe is junk as far as i am concerned, the thing has no weight at all to it to get any power on the downswing. really pissed just wasted my time and money, hope home depot takes it back. I am 6' 2" 195 by the way.



I felt the same way when I first got my X27 a couple months ago. I watched a couple of videos and modified my swing. I've been practicing on some fresh cut ash and am just now starting to get the hang of it. I'm glad I got it, now. Consider giving it more of a chance.


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## Iron Head (Dec 24, 2011)

Fiskar aren't junk but they aren't the ultimate wood splitter either.
I use my Fiskars as well as my Big Ox and my wedges. They all work great as a team.


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## howellhandmade (Dec 24, 2011)

StubornDutchman said:


> I felt the same way when I first got my X27 a couple months ago. I watched a couple of videos and modified my swing. I've been practicing on some fresh cut ash and am just now starting to get the hang of it. I'm glad I got it, now. Consider giving it more of a chance.



Or trying different wood. Yesterday a tree crew dropped two trees across the street and asked if I wanted the wood. Big red oak, slightly smaller maple. The trunk rounds of both trees were too big to move and it was nearly dark by the time I got to them so I didn't want to fire up a saw but I didn't want to wake up and have them gone, so I got busy trying to bust them up. Clear oak rounds, 24"-plus, I halved and quartered with the Fiskars SS. Took a few hits on some of them, and I tried a 6# maul too, but if I put three or four hits in the same spot with the Fiskars a crack started and it was quick from there. Slightly knotty pieces, I used the wedge and maul. Maple, though, even clear rounds took the wedge to split. Very spongy by comparison, just soaked up the impact and stuck either the Fiskars or the maul. Knotty maple I had to leave for the morning and the saw.

Now, there have always been guys who just didn't get on with the Fiskars and you might be one of them, but it's not junk.


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## unclemoustache (Dec 24, 2011)

I agree with the OP. I've never gotten the Fiskars to work, especially on square drive and hex shank screws. Much slower than your traditional screwdriver. :msp_mad:


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## fields_mj (Dec 25, 2011)

For one thing, everyone here seems to be fascinated over the fancy formula for KE. Problem is that KE is not the governing principle over impacts and collisions. Momentum is, and momentum is just mass X velocity. Now that's for an ideally "perfect" collision where nothing changes shape (think billiard balls on the table). That isn't what we are dealing with, so it's a bit of a mix between KE and momentum. So it's just like the others have been saying. Some times a piece of wood is best split with an 8lb maul, and other times an axe will do just fine. 

I have an X27, and I love it to death. It's far better than the splitting axes that I've used in the past. For me it pretty much eliminates the nitch for a 6 lb maul. I had a 48" white oak trunk that I bucked up this summer (late June) into 23" long rounds, and after noodling it into 8" wide sections, I used a 6lb maul, an 8lb maul, and my X27 to split the 8"x24" slabs into 8x8 pcs. The 6lb maul, and the X27 did about the same with a very slight advantage going to the 6lb maul. Depending on the grain, sometimes I could get them to split, and sometimes I couldn't. The 8lb maul did a little better, but not much. The tree had been dropped the previous winter, and was still pretty green. I split two of the rounds that day into firewood, and about half of that I couldn't even get teh 8lb maul to bust it and had to noodle it. I came back a month later, to work on it some more (mid Aug), and by that time the rounds had dried enough that I was no longer getting a face full of sap every time I hit it. Once I noodled the rounds into 8" slabs, everything could be split with the X27. I hated to leave it there that long because it's near the main lane, and I figured someone would come along and take advantage of the work that was already done. Thankfully, nobody was willing to work that hard  

On the other hand, I can split stuff with my X27 that my regular axe wouldn't even touch. I can tell a slight difference between swinging a 3.5# head vs the 4.5# Fiskars, but the extra work is very minimal. However, I can tell a huge difference between using that X27 and a 6 lb maul for a few hours. I can't run a maul all day any more, but the X27 ain't bad at all. 

I swing my X27 just like I do any other axe, and it works great. I don't swing an axe and a maul the same way, but I also don't use the over head swing that others seem to like. I've got my own swing that I've used for over 25 years now, and it works really well for me. Its similar to the swing that I use with a maul, but the timing of the hands is a lot different allowing me to snap my wrist at the end to pick up a lot of speed. 

I do hear a lot of folks on here talking about slabing off pieces of a big round. I don't care to do that. I've noticed that a lot of folks burn what I would call kindling. I have an indoor wood furnace, and I don't like feeding it anything under 4", and I really prefer to stay between 6" and 8". I also cut my firewood 24" long. It fits my fire box just right for those cold winter nights. A little room left on each end. I also cut them in half to burn when the weather is more mild. I started doing that this year and it has worked out nice for me allowing me to use the wood furnace up to about 50 deg instead of having to let the Nat Gas kick in. Still, when I split it, it's 24" long and that tends to make it a little harder to split. On big rounds, I will go through the center (or near it) just like with a maul. Having said that, when I was a young teen with more energy than brains, and old guy taught me how to read the grain on the wood so that I could find places to hit it and split it easier. He was in his 80's at the time, and he could out split me and his grandson (4 years older than me) put together, and it wasn't because he was fast. He just worked smarter. I use this technique to try to find a place that I can halve the round, and from there it's pretty easy to split. I also rarely split anything when it's still green. If I can get it in the truck safely, then I don't split it. When I get it home, it gets unloaded in a pile. I'll come back later and split and stack it. By then it has started to check (crack) some, which gives me more weaknesses to attack. Having said that, I Prefer to cut when it's well below freezing, and on those days, it all gets split right there on the spot. That frozen stuff splits like candy  

At the end of the day, if I give a round 3 or 4 well placed hits and it doesn't split, then I'll tip it over against another split and noodle it with ol' Bertha. I'll go a few more hits on a bigger round (+20"), but I won't give my X27 any more chances than I would give a 6lb maul. The Fiskars splitting axes are no super sledge, and they're not supposed to be. They're supposed to be an excellent splitting axe, and they are. Those 8 and 15lb mauls have their place too, but for me I'd rather run my 064 than swing those things. I'm just not as young as I used to be


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## Streblerm (Dec 25, 2011)

Green soft maple or other soft wood is not where the Fiskars shines. I have buried the head of my fiskars in some green silver maple or pine. It seems like the soft wood just absorbs the impact. After it freezes or dries for a bit it is a whole different story.

You will get the best results if you swing the fiskars more like a baseball bat or a golf club rather than a traditional roundhouse maul swing. I bring the fiskars straight down and then snap my wrists and bend slightly at the knees and waist just before impact. 

Ever try to ring the bell with a mallet at the fair? You can use all your strength and you won't get it. Snap your wrists right before impact and ding ding ding.


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## Whitespider (Dec 25, 2011)

fields_mj said:


> *...everyone here seems to be fascinated over the fancy formula for KE. Problem is that KE is not the governing principle over impacts and collisions. Momentum is...*



Now that there is the smartest reply in this thread yet. Momentum is what keeps the head moving through the wood, not kinetic energy. Momentum is one-dimensional... the amount of force in the direction of movement only. Kinetic energy is multi-dimensional... the force imparted in all directions (so kinetic energy includes momentum force). When talking about splitting with an ax or maul it is not possible to have one without the other... which is good because you need both to "split" wood. You need momentum to keep the head moving through the wood on contact, and you need some of the kinetic energy to be stolen from momentum and used to force the wood apart.

Momentum = weight x speed; so if you double either one, you double momentum. The problem with using the human being as the power source, doubling weight will slow the speed some (but not near by half). So a larger, stronger man may get more momentum from an 8 lb maul, while a smaller, weaker man may get more from a 6 lb maul (but still less than the 8 lb).

Kinetic energy = weight x o.5 x speed x speed; so if you double the weight, you double kinetic energy, but if you double speed you quadruple kinetic energy. Once again, using the human being as the power source, speed can only be increased by reducing the weight. And, once again, a larger, stronger man may get more kinetic energy from an 4 lb ax, while a smaller, weaker man may get more from a 3 lb ax (but still less than the 4 lb).

Let's take two extreme examples of a 6 lb "splitting" tool; one is very long and thin (like i knife blade) and the other is short and shaped in a wide, steep "*V*"... both are the same weight moving at the same human powered speed, so momentum and kinetic energy are identical. Striking the round with the thin tool results in it being buried deep in the wood, but it won't split because near all of the kinetic energy was used for momentum force. Striking the round with the wide, steep "*V*" shaped tool results in shallow crack and the tool bounces off because not enough of the kinetic energy was used for momentum force. In fact, a big portion of the kinetic energy was reversed to "bounce" the tool.

You can't really compare kinetic energy to momentum in a "one verses another" way because momentum is part of, or a percentage of, the kinetic energy. When it comes to "splitting" wood, kinetic energy is worthless without a certain amount of it being used for momentum. To say that one relies on kinetic energy and the other relies on momentum to get the job done is ridiculous. The heads of splitting tools are designed to change the percentage used for momentum as it travels deeper into the wood... flaring wider as the need for momentum reduces. A splitting ax (such as the Fiskars) is designed for use on smaller and/or easier splitting wood where large mounts of momentum are not needed... yes, you can swing it harder/faster to gain more momentum, but a large part of the energy you expend is wasted, evidenced by the splits flying violently to the side (i.e. more sideways force than needed was stolen from the momentum). A maul and a splitting ax are two entirely different tools, designed to be used under entirely different sets of circumstances. One does not replace the other... nor are they intended too.


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## c5rulz (Dec 25, 2011)

Whitespider said:


> The heads of splitting tools are designed to change the percentage used for momentum as it travels deeper into the wood... flaring wider as the need for momentum reduces. A splitting ax (such as the Fiskars) is designed for use on smaller and/or easier splitting wood where large mounts of momentum are not needed... yes, you can swing it harder/faster to gain more momentum, but a large part of the energy you expend is wasted, evidenced by the splits flying violently to the side (i.e. more sideways force than needed was stolen from the momentum). A maul and a splitting ax are two entirely different tools, designed to be used under entirely different sets of circumstances. One does not replace the other... nor are they intended too.



I agree,

I believe the success of the Fiskars splitting ax is the design of the flare of the head. It is very sharp, but flares at an increasing rate. Once the head penetrates so far, more energy is diverted to splitting rather than penetrating. Fiskars has figured this concept out and explains why it works better than most mauls and axes.


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## cheeves (Dec 25, 2011)

Mr Good Wood said:


> What are you guys splitting with this axe, balsa wood? I got the 36in s.s. and gave a 20in green maple round a try. What a joke, the axe is junk as far as i am concerned, the thing has no weight at all to it to get any power on the downswing. really pissed just wasted my time and money, hope home depot takes it back. I am 6' 2" 195 by the way.



I'm 6' 2" too and It's way too light for me also. I like my old 7lb. Stanley.


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## sunfish (Dec 25, 2011)

*There is a learning curve with everything.*

My BNL uses a double bit axe and is more efficient than most anybody using a maul.

For the last 10 years, I used a 5 lb thing that looks like a cross between an axe and maul. Works great for me.


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## RVALUE (Dec 25, 2011)

sunfish said:


> *There is a learning curve with everything.*
> 
> My BNL uses a double bit axe and is more efficient than most anybody using a maul.
> 
> For the last 10 years, I used a 5 lb thing that looks like a cross between an axe and maul. Works great for me.



Not a fair comparison. You're splitting _hairs._


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## bower4311 (Dec 25, 2011)

My brother and I are 19 and 18, never really split with a maul. We bought an X25 and an X27 and split close to 20 face cord of our total wood. We have probably 65 to 70 laying now. We throw the tough stuff for the hydraulic splitter, but my dad is in control of when it goes on the tractor so we use the Fiskars to split when we want. We love them. I love the X25 (i'm 5'9") my brother loves the X27 (6' tall). It does terrible horrible things to small ash and cherry. Between us two and our other two younger brothers, we can do 2 on the hydraulic and 1 with an axe with a setter/thrower and we can split wood very fast. We love our Fiskars, we even split some big logs with them. If I'm alone I'll split huge maple in half to load them on the truck alone. I'm ready to go down the next size axe for kindling in the house and any other small stuff. Lifetime Warranty says as long as we don't lose them we don't have much to worry about.


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## HEAVY FUEL (Dec 25, 2011)

cheeves said:


> I'm 6' 2" too and It's way too light for me also. I like my old 7lb. Stanley.



My kid is 6'2" 240 and still prefers the short handle supersplitter over the longer handled ones.


<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/OkTKqLJtXzs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


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## Philbert (Dec 25, 2011)

RVALUE said:


> Not a fair comparison. You're splitting _hairs._



Nope. He said his Brother-In-Law; he's splitting _heirs_!

Philbert


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## HEAVY FUEL (Dec 25, 2011)

bower4311 said:


> Lifetime Warranty says as long as we don't lose them we don't have much to worry about.



Correct. My kid also used it for a throwing axe and they will break if they hit handle first. Sent it back to fiskars and in a week had a new one at my door. I didnt expect it cuz that was a misuse of the product. 

Excellent products, excellent service.


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## greendohn (Dec 25, 2011)

hardly ever split by hand,,my pal, who i cut some honey locust with, can split that stuff faster with his Fiskars, than I can split, using a 6lb. maul..I was amazed..and he rarely bends over to pick his rounds up as he uses his Fiskars ax. He sinks the ax into the end and, using the ax, he can pack the wood around like they have a handle,,he does this with very little, if any, hassles..


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## OH_Varmntr (Dec 25, 2011)

indiansprings said:


> I'd say after doing it day after day, growing up driving a lot of wood post with a post maul, I'd prolly be able to swing the 8 pounder just about as fast as the X-27, my size don't hurt any either, pretty good sized ole boy, I'm not saying the Fiskars is a bad tool at all it just another tool in the box. In smaller wood the guys will grab the X-27 in a heartbeat, really big rounds the 8lbs mauls. This year in really nice straight grained wood we are hand splitting more and more, we think it's faster than using our hydraulic splitters, any tough wood goes on the splitters though. I do like the fact I'll never have to buy a handle for the X-27, I keep two or three extra hickory handles behind the seat at all times for the 8 lbs mauls. We'll bust four or five handles every year it seems.



You're much stronger than I. 

I know what you mean about hand splitting. When it comes to splitting wood, I just go at it with my Fiskars and maul (when I need it) and everything I can't whack with it goes in the hyd splitter pile.

The splitter pile takes a while to grow, so it doesn't get used near as much now.


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## leadarrows (Dec 25, 2011)

I got one this year and I like it. The light handle seems to help me with my accuracy. I can strike the wood exactly where I want too with my Fiskars and I can't say the same for my old wood handled ax. My 21 year old son makes quick work of rounds with it working in like I read recommended here. I am a little slower...lol. I would recommend the product with no hesitation.


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## sunfish (Dec 25, 2011)

RVALUE said:


> Not a fair comparison. You're splitting _hairs._



:matrix: opcorn:


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## Chris-PA (Dec 25, 2011)

There are so many variable and it's far from an ideal situation as would be modeled in a textbook. There's the characteristics of the wood, whether it's hard or soft or stringy or not, etc. In splitting the wood you're trying to accomplish several things, in varying amounts depending on the characteristics of the wood. First, you need to crack the wood fibers, and second you want to separate the two halves. If the wood is stringy, you may need a long cutting action after the hit (momentum is a help there), but if it's hard it may just break and fall apart.

In the end though, the key thing that is happening is transferring of energy from your muscles to the tool, and from the tool into the round. The tools have an edge to concentrate the energy along a line, causing a fracture under that edge. And it's more effective to make the tool move at a higher velocity than it is to use a heavier tool. Once you have the wood fractured, then you need to get it to propagate all the way through, and sometimes to make the halves separate to finish breaking the fibers.

On the human side of the handle you've got all the variabilities of how muscles work, and I understand that there are different processes associated with slow, heavy power than for quick movements. On the wood side, there are optimum face angles, and I've certainly found this is not constant for all wood. 

In the end it's a complex problem, and the solution is at best a compromise determined more by trial and error than theory. What works best will vary a bit from person to person and among different species of wood. For me, I can split a lot more wood a lot faster using a lighter, sharper axe than I can a heavy maul. For maximum energy transfer you want to swing the heaviest tool you can still swing fast without wiping yourself out. Something around 4-1/2lbs, with a face angle steeper than a standard axe but still quite sharp works best for me. But then you don't always need maximum output either.


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## bert0168 (Dec 25, 2011)

Add one more to the Fiskars Fan Club. 

'Santa' brought me my SS 36" :msp_thumbup: and after using it today, I don't think I'll need to run the hydro splitter unless I get into some gnarly crotches I can't split. It only refused two center crotches today and that was after I was able to reduce them from the outside in y about 75%.


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## memory (Dec 25, 2011)

Welcome to the club and enjoy your new gift.


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## cford (Dec 25, 2011)

Got me a new x27 for christmas ... after the morning mayhem died down and I had my nap ... I wandered back to my current round pile. A nice 2c/35f day .. I thought I would go back for 10 minutes and see what it would do. The last few years I have been borrowng by bil's wallenstein axe once I got 3-4 bush cords in rounds. As I have been cutting fencelines soft maple, poplar, ash ... and playing with the maul is not that much fun. This years windstorms knocked down some red oak and big ash in the woods. It split really well .... never stuck it once though sometimes had to hit the same spot a couple times on the crotches to get it to split.

The long and short of it, is I ended outside for 90 minutes .. without gloves and the biggest complaint is that now I spend more time stacking than splitting. I need to get a helper.


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## AIM (Dec 25, 2011)

My son in law BORROWED my super to try about 2 YEARS AGO! Evidently he likes it.

I am not a big lover of them but as many have said before. They have their place.
The smaller pro split is a great tool while cutting for driving wedges, cutting vines, etc.


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## Philbert (Dec 25, 2011)

bert0168 said:


> 'Santa' brought me my SS 36".





cford said:


> Got me a new x27 for christmas ...



Did Santa just bring these, or did you guys have to 'axe' for them?

(Probably made the tree pretty nervous).

Philbert


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## stoolie10 (Dec 25, 2011)

*X27 Fiskars*

My fiskars x27 is my first choice when splitting my firewood. Obviously not always the first choice when dealing with hard knotty wood. If a 6-8lb maul would do the job better, use it instead. I think common sense plays a big part when selecting the proper tool for the job.


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## PEKS (Dec 25, 2011)

My son is 35 years younger and 35lbs heavier than me..
Strong kid..
It took him many swings with the X27 to get a good crack in the rounds, while I had no probs..
Now that his technique has improved, the results are much better..
Not every tool is meant for everyone, I find the X27 to be a good performer on the wood I have used it on, still keepin my Heavy Hitter Mauls..


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## SawTroll (Dec 25, 2011)

indiansprings said:


> I think they are a little over hyped. They are for sure tough and indestructable. But I can't help believe in basic physics, swing a bigger hammer at the same speed more kinetic energy. The shape of the head helps the Fiskars a little, look at the head of the Stihl splitting axe, my dealer said Fiskars makes both the Stihl Splitting axe and splitting maul, the axe head is pretty similar to the fiskars.
> I think they have there place but dang sure aren't a magic wand. We use our 8 lbs old mauls just as much as the Fiskars.



Not anything magic, but the head of the Fiskars surely has a better shaped head than all the mauls I have seen.


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## SawTroll (Dec 25, 2011)

stoolie10 said:


> My fiskars x27 is my first choice when splitting my firewood. Obviously not always the first choice when dealing with hard knotty wood. If a 6-8lb maul would do the job better, use it instead. I think common sense plays a big part when selecting the proper tool for the job.



I split knotty wood with a chainsaw (noodling) - no point in banging away with an axe or maul, and at best making oddly shaped firewood......:msp_wink:


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## zogger (Dec 25, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> I split knotty wood with a chainsaw (noodling) - no point in banging away with an axe or maul, and at best making oddly shaped firewood......:msp_wink:



Hey mr. troll, what kind of wood do you really get over there? I read you said you get a lot of birch, but what do you get real big and knotty and gnarly?

Just wondering is all, and if you ever have any pics of where you are, like to see them!


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## Whitespider (Dec 25, 2011)

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> ...*it's more effective to make the tool move at a higher velocity than it is to use a heavier tool...*



I must be in an ornery mood because it seems I'm in disagreement with far more people the last few days. And I have to disagree with the above quote. To say generically that a lighter, faster tool is "_more effective_" than a heavier, slower tool is simple not true. For example, I could easily drive a 1-2 ounce wedge from a large bore gun at speeds approaching 100 times faster than any man can swing an ax or maul, carrying far more kinetic energy than any ax or maul... and I'm betting it would barely dent the wood, let alone split it. What is "_more effective_" is to use the proper balance of weight and speed for the job, or conditions at hand. That's why it isn't always necessary to swing the ax or maul just as hard as you possibly can, sometimes a half-power swing is all that is needed depending on the wood being split.

Sometimes the Fiskars will be the best tool for the job (and it's a fine, well made tool), at other times a lighter or heavier tool will be a better choice. The trick is to not get tunnel-vision and become single-dimensional in your thinking... The trick is to recognize (even when the FisKars _can_ get the job done) when a different tool is the better choice. No way am I gonna' waste time and energy "slabbing" off the edges of a large round with the Fiskars when I can just grab the heavy hitter and bust it into four pieces with as many swings.


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## PEKS (Dec 25, 2011)

Whitespider said:


> I must be in an ornery mood because it seems I'm in disagreement with far more people the last few days. And I have to disagree with the above quote. To say generically that a lighter, faster tool is "_more effective_" than a heavier, slower tool is simple not true. For example, I could easily drive a 1-2 ounce wedge from a large bore gun at speeds approaching 100 times faster than any man can swing an ax or maul, carrying far more kinetic energy than any ax or maul... and I'm betting it would barely dent the wood, let alone split it. What is "_more effective_" is to use the proper balance of weight and speed for the job, or conditions at hand. That's why it isn't always necessary to swing the ax or maul just as hard as you possibly can, sometimes a half-power swing is all that is needed depending on the wood being split.
> 
> Sometimes the Fiskars will be the best tool for the job (and it's a fine, well made tool), at other times a lighter or heavier tool will be a better choice. The trick is to not get tunnel-vision and become single-dimensional in your thinking... The trick is to recognize (even when the FisKars _can_ get the job done) when a different tool is the better choice. No way am I gonna' waste time and energy "slabbing" off the edges of a large round with the Fiskars when I can just grab the heavy hitter and bust it into four pieces with as many swings.



Well said..
Choose your most effective weapon for the task..


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## howellhandmade (Dec 25, 2011)

Whitespider said:


> Sometimes the Fiskars will be the best tool for the job (and it's a fine, well made tool), at other times a lighter or heavier tool will be a better choice. The trick is to not get tunnel-vision and become single-dimensional in your thinking... The trick is to recognize (even when the FisKars _can_ get the job done) when a different tool is the better choice. No way am I gonna' waste time and energy "slabbing" off the edges of a large round with the Fiskars when I can just grab the heavy hitter and bust it into four pieces with as many swings.



I don't see how slabbing off the edges of a large round is a waste unless you wanted bigger pieces. For my insert, those pieces are just right, and it's less energy to split a round into 30 pieces with 29 swings than to go to a big maul for X of them. Although, it just occurred to me that I've had several 6# mauls (which oddly enough haven't all been the same size/weight) and a Monster Maul, but never an 8# maul. Out of fairness and curiosity I'm going to get one tomorrow. With the 6#, if I can break a round in half with it, I can do the same with the SS. If I can't halve it with the SS, the 6# won't do it either, time for the wedges or the saw. Maybe the 8# is the missing link.


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## CT2500 (Dec 25, 2011)

i just got a fiskars x27 and really like it. i dont have much experience with heavier mauls but i am a heavy equipment mech and do a lot of undercarriage work. when banging out a master pin i use a 16lb sledge usualy good for about 10 good power hits. ive noticed with the fiskars it does not requier the power just speed. the only thing that i have spilt with it so far is green white oak and red oak. some pieces were over 28" around fiskars ate it all up.


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## husky455rancher (Dec 25, 2011)

i just got an 8pounder. ive been eyeballing the x27 for some time now. i should just buy the damn thing already. im interested to see what all the hype is about.


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## Chainsaw_Maniac (Dec 26, 2011)

To the OP: 

Try and go for precision rather than brute force. Aim for existing cracks in the wood. Do not try and split parts of a block that are not straight grained (where there is a branch). Do the easy blocks first. If you are unable to split one of the harder pieces, put it aside as use another method on that piece later. For example, you could rip it with the chainsaw, or rent/borrow a splitter later when you have a stockpile of tough pieces. Using wedges and a sledge hammer will take down pieces larger than 20" better than any axe.

If you still hate the Friskars, take it back or sell it.


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## zogger (Dec 26, 2011)

*Well, what happened?*

You have got a nice variety of replies, just wondering what your final determination is?


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## 1grnlwn (Dec 26, 2011)

14" straight grain easy to split wood, the Fiscars is fine. Anything else find a different tool. I was very disappointed when I got mine but we use it to cut strings when splitting with the Bobcat. We have much more fun seeing how far we can stand back and stick it in the end of a round. It is an axe not a maul. What the heck I have spent a heck of a lot more on other things that didn't work out. In every circle there are overly hyped products. Harley, Dixie Chopper, Dodge Trucks and Fiskars. IMO.


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## Whitespider (Dec 26, 2011)

howellhandmade said:


> *I don't see how slabbing off the edges of a large round is a waste unless you wanted bigger pieces.*


It’s a matter of efficiency in my mind… maybe more opinion than actual physics. To me it’s just more efficient to halve, third or quarter a large round first, because then it takes less energy (i.e. you don’t have to swing as hard, no matter what tool you use) to finish the job. Start out with 3-5 really hard, powerful swings to quarter the round, and from there out your pretty much just letting the tool fall from its own weight… you’re just guiding it to the correct spot. If I’m “slabbing” from the edges, I’m swinging hard every time… or at least more times. Of course this assumes the wood is straight grained and splits readily, such as Red Oak, Ash, etc.

Really, if it isn’t relatively easy splitting wood I ain’t gonna’ swing anything; that’s what power log splitters are for. Sure, it may still be “faster” to split with a swinging tool… but for how long? The swinging tool might get more done the first hour or two, until the body starts to wear-down… but 2-3 hours later the power splitter has caught-up and surpassed the swinging tool by a good margin (or at least my fully auto-cycle splitter does). Even with moderately difficult-to-split wood the power splitter is the way to go in my mind. I see no reason to wear myself down in two hours, when I can work 4-6 hours and get 3-4 times as much work done. Now, if I have a small-to-middlin' pile of nice straight-grained, easy splitting wood I’ll grab the ax and maul ‘cause I can get it done quick, with relatively little energy expended. And for me, it’s more efficient to start the large rounds with a some good old fashion, momentum-driven power that only a heavy maul can provide

I don’t mind hard work… but I ain’t gonna’ work any harder than I have to… It’s my “_Work Smarter, Not Harder_" mentality…


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## OH_Varmntr (Dec 26, 2011)

I'll start at the ousides of a big round because if I can manage to whack it into 4 pieces, they are way too big to throw into my furnace and will have to be further split anyways.

That's my situation.

If you have a big OWB that can handle bigger splits, there's no need to split it smaller and a big maul is great for whacking a round into 4 big pieces.

That just shows why there's such a variety of tools out there to get a job done.


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## Chris-PA (Dec 26, 2011)

I got an 8lb maul for Christmas, and I was going to take it back because I usually prefer a 6lb, but it was nice and after this thread I decided to keep it. So I took it over to work over some big chunks of ash from the butt end of a large tree cut down lat year. These had given me trouble with the axe, but then I was tired when I tried it and left them sit. Anyway, I wanted to experiment with this stuff a bit. What I found was that once again, it's all about the speed of the swing. Unless I really sent it flying, that 8lb maul didn't do anything more than the 4-1/2 axe did. But when I really whipped it, it broke them consistently. So in this case the heavier tool was needed to split this stuff, but I still had to swing it fast, and it sure took a lot more energy out of me to do it.


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## grandpatractor (Dec 26, 2011)

I have 2 shorter fiskars and one X27. And numerous other mauls. The only thing I use for splitting is the fiskars. Otherwise they get noodled or into the hydraulic splitter. They aren't magic. They are all about technique. Splitting is all about technique. Almost any piece of wood will split easier in one spot than another. You have to read it and figure out where it will split with the least amount of energy. I think the larger mauls are a little more forgiving on technique. Certain woods will split better after sitting and drying a bit. I have found that oak likes to be split wet. Even better if frozen. 
I have watched some people swing 5 times in the same spot and nothing happen. I can tell almost everytime after the first swing if it will split there or not just by how the maul sounds and feels. It's all about the angles and cracks and knots. Practice make a guy better.
Most guys like the fiskars because they can swing them for a more extended period of time. Much longer than an 8 pounder.


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## howellhandmade (Dec 26, 2011)

1grnlwn said:


> 14" straight grain easy to split wood, the Fiscars is fine. Anything else find a different tool. I was very disappointed when I got mine but we use it to cut strings when splitting with the Bobcat. We have much more fun seeing how far we can stand back and stick it in the end of a round. It is an axe not a maul. What the heck I have spent a heck of a lot more on other things that didn't work out. In every circle there are overly hyped products. Harley, Dixie Chopper, Dodge Trucks and Fiskars. IMO.



You're right that the X27 is more of an axe. Compared to the Super Splitter, the X27 has an edge that is a half inch longer and a flare that is a quarter of an inch less wide. The SS is more like a maul than the X27, without actually being one either. I think it penetrates better than the X27 and has more splitting force, which stands to reason -- less edge driven by more weight and a wider flare pushing the splits apart.


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## HEAVY FUEL (Dec 26, 2011)

howellhandmade said:


> You're right that the X27 is more of an axe. Compared to the Super Splitter, the X27 has an edge that is a half inch longer and a flare that is a quarter of an inch less wide. The SS is more like a maul than the X27, without actually being one either. I think it penetrates better than the X27 and has more splitting force, which stands to reason -- less edge driven by more weight and a wider flare pushing the splits apart.



Here you go.


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## Philbert (Dec 26, 2011)

HEAVY FUEL said:


> Here you go.



Goldilocks meets Heavy Fuel in the woods: this axe is TOOOO big! This axe is TOOOO small!. This Fiskars Super Splitter is just right!!!


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## howellhandmade (Dec 26, 2011)

Philbert said:


> Goldilocks meets Heavy Fuel in the woods: this axe is TOOOO big! This axe is TOOOO small!. This Fiskars Super Splitter is just right!!!



The Super Splitter is on the right. The X27 is in the middle. If that's the X25 on the left I don't want one. What a shame if the SS is no longer made.


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## HEAVY FUEL (Dec 26, 2011)

howellhandmade said:


> The Super Splitter is on the right. The X27 is in the middle. If that's the X25 on the left I don't want one. What a shame if the SS is no longer made.



The one the left is called the pro splitter, I THINK. Its only around 4 lbs. I thought the X25 & X27 share the same head just one has longer handle. :msp_confused:


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## Brushwacker (Dec 26, 2011)

I recently got to use the new 36" version next to my older SS. So far I;m disappointed . I first noticed a lot of shock transfer through the handle to my body in comparison to the original SS which is the #1 reason I like the SS better then any other splitting tool I've owned of many. What little I used it, it didn;t seem to split as efficient either. I switched back to my SS to spare my tender parts and get the job done the way I've gotton used to getting it done. I believe if they would not have changed the shape and lightened the weight of the head I would of liked the long handle like I do on the monster mauls with longer handles. I swing for accuracy more then speed. Reading the wood and hitting it in the right spot is easier for me to achieve at a moderate speed swing. Trying to swing for speed I seem to loose some control and feel there is greater risk of accidents.


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## trailmaker (Dec 26, 2011)

HEAVY FUEL said:


> The one the left is called the pro splitter, I THINK. Its only around 4 lbs. I thought the X25 & X27 share the same head just one has longer handle. :msp_confused:



I'm pretty certain the one on the left is the 2.5 lb. "Pro Splitter". It's a great little splitter even though it was overshadowed by the heavier "Super Splitter". As of 3 weeks ago Amazon was still selling the Pro Splitter even though it's been out of production for some time. I snatched up one as a gift and another as backup. You are correct about the X25 and X27 sharing the same head.


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## blacklocst (Dec 27, 2011)

Bottom line is if you had to choose one hand splitting tool the Fiskars ss is the best all around, hands down no contest. There really shouldn't be much of a learning curve as the tool is one of the most ergonomically correct tool I've ever picked up. Yeah, it was love at first swing.


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## incipit22 (Dec 31, 2011)

*fiskars is all technique*

loved my shorter, original splitting ax so much, I could hardly wait to pick up the 36" version. Had it delivered to my doorstep for a total of 49.99 via amazon.com. Will be breaking it in tomorrow morning even though I may be picking up a I & O 22 ton FC in the afternoon. I feel the Fiskars is perfectly designed, yet was rather unsure at first- as many where with the shorter original length.


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## lmbrman (Dec 31, 2011)

Not sure it is worthy of all the hype, but I do think it is one of the best I have used. I just prefer a hydraulic splitter- less body stress to me. I have seen a couple of these broken, not sure how they broke, curious if others have seen this. Possibly from pounding with the backside on a wedge, post, etc ??


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## zogger (Dec 31, 2011)

lmbrman said:


> Not sure it is worthy of all the hype, but I do think it is one of the best I have used. I just prefer a hydraulic splitter- less body stress to me. I have seen a couple of these broken, not sure how they broke, curious if others have seen this. Possibly from pounding with the backside on a wedge, post, etc ??



Broken? I can't imagine someone breaking one without abusing it severely, using it in some way it is not intended for. 

It's not a sledge hammer, so ya, pounding with the head is not a good idea, neither is pounding on the head with something else. Using is as a pry bar..not good. Competition throwing axe..no, it isn't for that either. And etc. 

If someone is just standing there swinging it into wood, like it was designed for, as a splitting axe, not a maul, I want to see the vid of it breaking. I'll pay a buck in an envelope mailed to see that. Ya, a buck ain't much, but I pay zero other than my internet connection to see other vids of guys using saws and axes and splitters, etc, so in that sense it would be that interesting to me.


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## lmbrman (Dec 31, 2011)

zogger said:


> Broken? I can't imagine someone breaking one without abusing it severely, using it in some way it is not intended for.
> 
> It's not a sledge hammer, so ya, pounding with the head is not a good idea, neither is pounding on the head with something else. Using is as a pry bar..not good. Competition throwing axe..no, it isn't for that either. And etc.
> 
> If someone is just standing there swinging it into wood, like it was designed for, as a splitting axe, not a maul, I want to see the vid of it breaking. I'll pay a buck in an envelope mailed to see that. Ya, a buck ain't much, but I pay zero other than my internet connection to see other vids of guys using saws and axes and splitters, etc, so in that sense it would be that interesting to me.



One of the fiskars is sitting at the dealer awaiting replay from fiskars. I have no clue how it broke and do not know the owner, but I will take a photo today if it is still there. I don't own one. I will check what my neighbor did with the other broken one- he found it in the trash and thought maybe he could get a free replacement.

No need to pay me a buck. I was curious too, but thought maybe this happened regular so gave it little thought until this thread.


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## zogger (Dec 31, 2011)

lmbrman said:


> One of the fiskars is sitting at the dealer awaiting replay from fiskars. I have no clue how it broke and do not know the owner, but I will take a photo today if it is still there. I don't own one. I will check what my neighbor did with the other broken one- he found it in the trash and thought maybe he could get a free replacement.
> 
> No need to pay me a buck. I was curious too, but thought maybe this happened regular so gave it little thought until this thread.



Well, that's cool ya. I'd sure like to hear the story of how they got broken. Of course, no way to know if the story told to the dealer is real either. I mean, these babies are built pretty dang strong. Fiskars is confident enough to give it a lifetime warranty. Mine shows some wear from use, but it is still pretty darn new looking after ..no idea..thousands of hits with it. 

And..seeing as how it is so muddy out I can't go anywhere with the tractor without leaving one to two foot deep ruts, I just might go out and whack some at the pile this afternoon, sport splitting!

Dec 31st, got dandelions in the yard and the aulde laydees daffy dills are peaking out.

Which tells me feb and march gonna be nasty. Moms nature don't give out no free lunches. And if the sap runs too early, it is gonna hurt trees bad.


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## HEAVY FUEL (Dec 31, 2011)

My kid broke a few in a high competition redneck beer drinking axe throwing contest. If they hit handle first they will split. I boxed one up shipped it to them a week later had a new one on the door step, no questions asked.


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## lmbrman (Dec 31, 2011)

*picture*

I have a picture of the one sitting at the dealer broken- I will post it after I eat. It is broken on the backside and my guess would be it broke pounding on something, but I really have no clue.


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## lmbrman (Dec 31, 2011)




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## andydodgegeek (Dec 31, 2011)

I bought one and I like it. I mainly split red oak and it works quite well for that. I havent seen the OP reply here again. I think he should give it another try before he says they are junk. Did he grab a maul and split his 20" green maple with ease? Why does he say it is junk? Did it not split the wood? Why is he so "pissed"? I am 6'1" and about 255lb and I thought the axe hits pretty hard, knocks chunks off red oak rounds with ease.


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 1, 2012)

andydodgegeek said:


> I bought one and I like it. I mainly split red oak and it works quite well for that. I havent seen the OP reply here again. I think he should give it another try before he says they are junk. Did he grab a maul and split his 20" green maple with ease? Why does he say it is junk? Did it not split the wood? Why is he so "pissed"? I am 6'1" and about 255lb and I thought the axe hits pretty hard, knocks chunks off red oak rounds with ease.



The OP sounded mch like sour grapes because he expected it to be a miracle weapon that wouild split everything including stuff that would be a problem using wedge/sledge.

Harry K


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## David P (Jun 21, 2019)

Mr Good Wood said:


> What are you guys splitting with this axe, balsa wood? I got the 36in s.s. and gave a 20in green maple round a try. What a joke, the axe is junk as far as i am concerned, the thing has no weight at all to it to get any power on the downswing. really pissed just wasted my time and money, hope home depot takes it back. I am 6' 2" 195 by the way.



My impression is that the core principle behind the Fiskars splitting axes is energy. The kinetic energy ('power', 'force', are common terms) is 1/2 x mass x velocity^2. This means if you double the mass you double the impact. But if you double the speed you increase the impact by a factor of 2^2 = 4.

So let's say you take your big ol' maul and grind away half the mass. The impact would be half as much. But, with half the mass you can now get the maul to travel twice as fast. If you had the original maul going at twice the speed it would have 4 times the impact. Combined, the effect of half the mass (1/2 x) and twice the speed (2^2 = 4x) you get 1/2 x 4 = 2 times the impact. So I assume Fiskars played around with the mass and the speed to determine the point of diminishing returns (at some point you can only swing an ax just so fast) to determine how light to make the head and get the most return in terms of kinetic energy (and impact).

In addition the shape of the head sides (straight) is different then 'most' mauls (often curved) which may be a factor.

But increased speed is the 'secret sauce'.
And you don't wear yourself out by wrestling a big ol' maul.


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## Philbert (Jun 21, 2019)

David P said:


> My impression is that the core principle behind the Fiskars splitting axes is energy. The kinetic energy ('power', 'force', are common terms) is 1/2 x mass x velocity^2. This means if you double the mass you double the impact. But if you double the speed you increase the impact by a factor of 2^2 = 4.


Welcome to A.S David!

If it had not been so long since I took my last Physics class, I might add a few more things in there. But the key thing in my mind is that Fiskars concentrates the mass at the end of a lightweight handle, where it does the work. So they created a lightweight tool that is as effective as a much heaver tool, which makes it easier on the user. If they put that same head on the end of a conventional hickory handle, I don't think that we would be talking about it!

Philbert


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## svk (Jun 21, 2019)

I saw this thread was 5 pages long and was wondering how did I miss it LOL. Oh yeah, it’s 9 years old.


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## Multifaceted (Jun 21, 2019)

Fiskars x27 is a good splitter, unfortunately for me they don't make one with a wood handle. Bummer... How else am I supposed to get that 'axe boner'?


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## Philbert (Jun 22, 2019)

Add a little veneer . . . .






Philbert


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## Philbert (Jun 22, 2019)

Here is a better thread to peruse:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars-x27-what-a-piece-of-plastic.269270/

Philbert


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## Multifaceted (Jun 22, 2019)

I've been through that thread too, all are too much squabbling for my tastes as I don't even own one, so there's no dog in the fight for me. It's about as entertaining as the arguments between Ford and Chevy owners. I'm only here to jest, ha ha


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## bigG (Jun 23, 2019)

Mr Good Wood said:


> What are you guys splitting with this axe, balsa wood? I got the 36in s.s. and gave a 20in green maple round a try. What a joke, the axe is junk as far as i am concerned, the thing has no weight at all to it to get any power on the downswing. really pissed just wasted my time and money, hope home depot takes it back. I am 6' 2" 195 by the way.


I just hated the handle when I picked it up. No go.


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## Philbert (Jun 23, 2019)

bigG said:


> I just hated the handle when I picked it up. No go.



Wrap it with tape. Or wear gloves. 

Philbert


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## alleyyooper (Jun 24, 2019)

I also bought a Fiskers X 27 to split some well season dead ash I had cut down to a size where I could get it in the trailer. 
What a freaking joke it was as it kept bounceing off the round hardly makeing a mark. 3 days later I returned it.


Went back to my sledge and wedged when I couldn't get a round to split wiuth my 6 pound maul. Yes I know how to whittle the round rather than try to half it and quarter it.

Went to a husky dealer for a part and saw the husky splitting axe. Yes it has a wood handle on it but it works on that season dead standing ash i want to make it smaller to get to the power splitter.

*You would think from the reviews of this splitting axe the rounds would just fall apart in fear as soon as it is carried into the woods. Well they didn't, in fact despite what it says on the handle about one hit split it isn't so. I have some 20 inch in dia 2 year seasoned Ash and the fiskars just bounced off it after leaving a tiny little slash mark, by the reviews you would think it had a laser guide so If in fact you needed to hit the round more than once it would hit in the same spot or in a line with that spot. That isn't so either you have to use your eye and hope your aim is good.
Good thing is it is lighter than my 8 pound splitting maul so you can afford the extra swings it takes.
I gave up on those big rounds and resorted to a couple of wedges and sledge. Moving on to some smaller stuff about 12 inches in dia it would some times split in one swing but most times took many more at least.

*
 Al


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## echomeister (Jun 24, 2019)

i have x27 and isocore. The reason is that if I have nice straight grained wood then the x27 gets the job done far easier. Otherwise the Isocore is the ticket. Wood is different and some combinations of blade profile , weight and handle length will be optimum for different types.


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## DSW (Jun 24, 2019)

The Fiskars is nice because it's a light, efficient way of hand splitting wood. If it's not splitting it, I don't wanna be hand splitting.


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## Ronaldo (Jun 24, 2019)

I've got an X25 and an X27. I'm not giving them up....

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


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## alderman (Jun 25, 2019)

Sounds like you are the problem. Mine works fine and I’m and old fart. Gotta be strong enough to use it and smarter than the wood. 


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## arboristlove (Jun 25, 2019)

indiansprings said:


> I think they are a little over hyped. They are for sure tough and indestructable. But I can't help believe in basic physics, swing a bigger hammer at the same speed more kinetic energy. The shape of the head helps the Fiskars a little, look at the head of the Stihl splitting axe, my dealer said Fiskars makes both the Stihl Splitting axe and splitting maul, the axe head is pretty similar to the fiskars.
> I think they have there place but dang sure aren't a magic wand. We use our 8 lbs old mauls just as much as the Fiskars.



Super old post but yeah I think you're right. Their durability is great, some of the characteristics of them are pretty though out. But like you said - their not a magic wand. It's all about finding the right tool for the right job. The axe won't do that for you LOL!


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