# Stihl MS250 or MS290



## NapalmDeath (May 17, 2006)

*Stihl MS250 or MS290 or MS270*

Hi, first time poster on this forum and alot of good info I've found. However, after searching awile I havn't found a definitive answer to which saw would suit my needs better. I looked at a few Husqvarna's but unfortunately, not due to their saws I wasn't comfortable buying from a store where they only had a couple models with boxes opened, info and paperwork strewn all over the shelf, signs half missing and salespeople who knew less of the saws then myself.
Then I went to the local Stihl dealer...what a pleasure! He had probably 15 different models on his shelfs to look at. He seemed pretty knowledgeable and very helpfull. Turns out, he is friends with a co-worker of mine as well, small world huh? Anyway, I left there very impressed.
To get to my question about which one to buy. I would like to keep my budget under $350. The saw will be used mainly for firewood, probably only one cord a year and maybe help a buddy clear a lot once a year on mostly Oak trees up to 16" mostly around 12". I would like this saw to last a long time, at least 10 years. I'm also not sure about bar size. I would prefer a 18" bar for bit less leaning over as I'm 6'2 and I suppose it may be better for my back. Or should I get the 16" bar as I hear that the saw would perform better? Between the 250 and 290 there is a 2.9 lb difference it weight and while I don't mind lugging around a heavier saw that does seem like a substantial difference in weight. The 290 has .8 more horsepower then the 250, would I need the extra power in my case? Also, the small price difference of $40 is not a factor at all. 
So I'm trying to decide between a MS250 16" or 18" or MS290 16" or 18"?
Thanks, Kev.
p.s. I recently added the 270 to the list.


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## lovetheoutdoors (May 17, 2006)

NapalmDeath said:


> Hi, first time poster on this forum and alot of good info I've found. However, after searching awile I havn't found a definitive answer to which saw would suit my needs better. I looked at a few Husqvarna's but unfortunately, not due to their saws I wasn't comfortable buying from a store where they only had a couple models with boxes opened, info and paperwork strewn all over the shelf, signs half missing and salespeople who knew less of the saws then myself.
> Then I went to the local Stihl dealer...what a pleasure! He had probably 15 different models on his shelfs to look at. He seemed pretty knowledgeable and very helpfull. Turns out, he is friends with a co-worker of mine as well, small world huh? Anyway, I left there very impressed.
> To get to my question about which one to buy. I would like to keep my budget under $350. The saw will be used mainly for firewood, probably only one cord a year and maybe help a buddy clear a lot once a year on mostly Oak trees up to 16" mostly around 12". I would like this saw to last a long time, at least 10 years. I'm also not sure about bar size. I would prefer a 18" bar for bit less leaning over as I'm 6'2 and I suppose it may be better for my back. Or should I get the 16" bar as I hear that the saw would perform better? Between the 250 and 290 there is a 2.9 lb difference it weight and while I don't mind lugging around a heavier saw that does seem like a substantial difference in weight. The 290 has .8 more horsepower then the 250, would I need the extra power in my case? Also, the small price difference of $40 is not a factor at all.
> So I'm trying to decide between a MS250 16" or 18" or MS290 16" or 18"?
> Thanks, Kev.



The 250 is to small.....if you have a little more money i would go with the ms260 pro or the ms361....If you are gonna do alot of cutting get a pro saw and spend a little more.But if you had to have the 250 or 290....go with the 290.


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## rbtree (May 17, 2006)

If you could find a reputable Husky or Dolmar dealer, I'd go with a 353, 359 Husky, or Dolmar 5100S over the 029 any day of the week. All within your price range, I think. Lighter, more professionally built. That said, the heavy 029 works just fine, according to reports of users. Just hard to work on for major repairs, the kind that you would be unlikely to ever need.


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## Lakeside53 (May 17, 2006)

For one cord a year either of the saws would be a fine choice. The 025 is a smaller package and weights less, but if that's not important to you, the 029 will serve you well.


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## computeruser (May 17, 2006)

Both are fine saws for your intended purpose. I would err on the side of a lighter saw, even at the cost of a bit of HP. I own a 290 and it sits on the shelf and rarely gets used because it weighs as much as my 79cc Dolmar and has no more power than my 10.6lb 026Pro.

Any interest in buying a lightly used MS290?


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## Woodsurfer (May 17, 2006)

I have a 250 and find it suits me fine. I cut 3 or 4 cords of wood a year, maybe running 20 hours a year tops. It is light and starts easily. The 16" bar will stall when buried in hardwood, but you get the job done. Last year I cut down a 32" birch with it. You make do with whatya got...


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## fishhuntcutwood (May 17, 2006)

Lakeside53 said:


> For one cord a year either of the saws would be a fine choice. The 025 is a smaller package and weights less, but if that's not important to you, the 029 will serve you well.



Ditto. The 250 is a very decent little saw, and for a cord a year, and the tree diameters you mention, it'd do you fine and weigh less.

Welcome to AS.

Jeff


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## NapalmDeath (May 17, 2006)

fishhuntcutwood said:


> Ditto. The 250 is a very decent little saw, and for a cord a year, and the tree diameters you mention, it'd do you fine and weigh less.
> 
> Welcome to AS.
> 
> Jeff


Jeff, what do you recommend for bar length. 16" or 18".


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## Stihldoc (May 17, 2006)

Why not look at the MS270 Wood Boss and the MS270CB? Budget is budget. If you have $350.00 to spend, the MS 270 Boss is worthy of consideration. 3.3 or so HP, takes 16-20" bars and has a smooth AV system. I know everyone's favorite sport on this site is to slam non-pro saws as being unworthy. But unworthy of what...? Pros should buy pro saws to get pro performance and pro durability. Homeowner saws are simply not robust enough for the rigors of pro use. This man said he has a particular budget and straightforward needs- a cord of wood a year is much less than many of you will cut in an afternoon. A homeowner-oriented saw is what you need based on available budget and your needs and expectations. Sure, a pro saw will cut the wood faster, longer (because they are tougher), and weigh less, but Stihl doesn't offer one in this price range. The MS250 will suit your needs in terms of quantity of wood you want to cut, but is a bit undersized for the size of trees you may encounter. The MS290 is a very dependable saw but is HEAVY. The MS270 is a great saw for the homeowner who needs a saw that is capable of cutting 2-5 cords a year for many years. The MS270/MS270CB saws won me over a few years ago... Hurricane Isabelle blew through town and we sold all our saws in the first 3 hours we were open the following morning. Stihl sent a truck to our area to resupply the dealers but the only saws available were MS 460's and MS270's. We sold 16 MS460's the next day and 51 MS270's. Most 270 sales were to homeowners and some were to local tree services... not a single one came back with any problems. I love this saw. Does it beat the MS260, the MS361, the MS660? No, but it isn't designed (or priced) to. There are lots of great saws from several other companies in your price range, but are they represented by servicing dealers in your area? Check this out. Of course I'm biased, look at my name, do you think I'm going to recommend a Homelite?


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## Luke (May 17, 2006)

*250 vs 290*

I've had both and would not buy either if I had a $350 budget. 250 would probably work but the air filtration, vibe, and power might be a dissapointment. The 290 will feel like a 372 without feeling that much stronger than the 250. Probably get a Husky 353. I have not used the Dolmar 5100, but from what others say, if you can get it close to your budget, it might be great. Or you could negotiate a deal on one of the Dolmar/Makita 540's laying around, send it to Dave Neiger, and dust all of the above. I don't have much more in mine than what is in your budget.


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## NapalmDeath (May 17, 2006)

Stihldoc said:


> Why not look at the MS270 Wood Boss and the MS270CB? Budget is budget. If you have $350.00 to spend, the MS 270 Boss is worthy of consideration. 3.3 or so HP, takes 16-20" bars and has a smooth AV system. I know everyone's favorite sport on this site is to slam non-pro saws as being unworthy. But unworthy of what...? Pros should buy pro saws to get pro performance and pro durability. Homeowner saws are simply not robust enough for the rigors of pro use. This man said he has a particular budget and straightforward needs- a cord of wood a year is much less than many of you will cut in an afternoon. A homeowner-oriented saw is what you need based on available budget and your needs and expectations. Sure, a pro saw will cut the wood faster, longer (because they are tougher), and weigh less, but Stihl doesn't offer one in this price range. The MS250 will suit your needs in terms of quantity of wood you want to cut, but is a bit undersized for the size of trees you may encounter. The MS290 is a very dependable saw but is HEAVY. The MS270 is a great saw for the homeowner who needs a saw that is capable of cutting 2-5 cords a year for many years. The MS270/MS270CB saws won me over a few years ago... Hurricane Isabelle blew through town and we sold all our saws in the first 3 hours we were open the following morning. Stihl sent a truck to our area to resupply the dealers but the only saws available were MS 460's and MS270's. We sold 16 MS460's the next day and 51 MS270's. Most 270 sales were to homeowners and some were to local tree services... not a single one came back with any problems. I love this saw. Does it beat the MS260, the MS361, the MS660? No, but it isn't designed (or priced) to. There are lots of great saws from several other companies in your price range, but are they represented by servicing dealers in your area? Check this out. Of course I'm biased, look at my name, do you think I'm going to recommend a Homelite?


I decided on the the 250 over the 290 for the weight savings mostly. However, since you mentioned it now I'm also interested in the 270 as well. Although it is a bit over my budget, which incidently was origionaly $300. Now I have to question weather or not I should spend $80 more on the 270 as opposed to the 250. Is the 270 worth the extra $80.


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## Lakeside53 (May 17, 2006)

Careful with the "only XX $ more"... There are a lot of saws spaced $50 apart, so where do you stop? Buy the smaller saw, then later, if you need a big saw, get a real big saw...


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## Stihldoc (May 17, 2006)

Yes it is worth it if you need it. The MS250 is a small frame saw with good HP. The MS270 is a mid-sized saw that will handle the 18" bar far better than the MS250 can. The 16" MS250 MSRP's at $299.00, the MS270 Wood Boss MSRP's at $349.00, and the MS270CB (with quick chain adjuster ) MSRP's at $369.00 with a 16" bar. It really comes down to your needs- do you anticipate ever cutting more than a cord per year or cutting bigger trees? Are your skills up to taking on bigger stuff? If yes, consider buying a bigger saw, but don't go nuts. If you get a country place later, you can always buy a bigger saw, but the small saw has its place in your toolshed too. Not every tree out there is a Redwood.


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## Stihldoc (May 17, 2006)

P.S. to lakeside, it looks from your collection that we both occasionally don't know when to quit. I'm an urban warrior- I still use the 16" 028WB I bought new in 1981. There are several other Stihls in the toolshed, but this one remains my sentimental (read: semimental) favorite.


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## NapalmDeath (May 17, 2006)

I would definately stop at the 270. I think that with an 18" bar the 270 would be all the saw I'll ever need if I decide to get it instead of the 250. I honestly don't want to mess with anything bigger then 12-14" trees. I recently had to split about a dozen 20"-22" sections of Red Oak and that was quite a chore I don't want to have to go though again.


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## xring (May 17, 2006)

lovetheoutdoors said:


> The 250 is to small.....if you have a little more money i would go with the ms260 pro or the ms361....If you are gonna do alot of cutting get a pro saw and spend a little more.But if you had to have the 250 or 290....go with the 290.




The 250 is 3.0 HP the 260 is 3.2. seems to me if the 250 isn't powerful enough then the 260 isn't much of an improvement in the power area. In the running it all day long every day I'm sure it is. For one cord a year either is ok I own a 025 ( old # for 250) & I have run a 290. The 290 is stronger & it is very popular with occasional users. Cutting firewood I'd go 290. I use mine to clear fence rows & got the 025 because of the weight but cuts my firewood just fine.


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## pinus (May 17, 2006)

NapalmDeath said:


> I decided on the the 250 over the 290 for the weight savings mostly. However, since you mentioned it now I'm also interested in the 270 as well. Although it is a bit over my budget, which incidently was origionaly $300. Now I have to question weather or not I should spend $80 more on the 270 as opposed to the 250. Is the 270 worth the extra $80.



I have 270 and had 026 (the same as 260 now). If I needed to do choice between them (260/270), I will take 270. Amazing antivibe. Wery good balance with 15"-18" bar. Immediate acceleration of engine.


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## Marco (May 18, 2006)

Cord a year? Want it to last forever? Budget? Sounds like a job for an XL-12, they keep forever. MS250 would be a real pain to get 10 years of such limited use out of, you would have to pay real close attention to how you store it or you would have some issues with that fine German enginered Chinese carb the have.


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## THALL10326 (May 18, 2006)

Marco said:


> Cord a year? Want it to last forever? Budget? Sounds like a job for an XL-12, they keep forever. MS250 would be a real pain to get 10 years of such limited use out of, you would have to pay real close attention to how you store it or you would have some issues with that fine German enginered Chinese carb the have.



XL-12, neat, know of anywhere theres a new one for sale???


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## Marco (May 18, 2006)

I did not specifcally say get a NEW XL-12. It's just that I've not had the best of luck with an MS250 I have here to straighten out. So when I can drag a Xl-12 out of somebodies grainery that floods every other spring and get it to run with less effort than a three year old MS250, well lets say the old USED Homey would seem better for such limited use.


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## NapalmDeath (May 18, 2006)

Marco said:


> Cord a year? Want it to last forever? Budget? Sounds like a job for an XL-12, they keep forever. MS250 would be a real pain to get 10 years of such limited use out of, you would have to pay real close attention to how you store it or you would have some issues with that fine German enginered Chinese carb the have.


Maybe two cords tops.
MS250 or MS270 is my dilema now though.
I would store it the same way I store every other gas powered machine I own. Clean it, change the oil, add fuel stabilizer. I would think 10 years should't be too hard to achieve.


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## fishhuntcutwood (May 18, 2006)

NapalmDeath said:


> Jeff, what do you recommend for bar length. 16" or 18".



I think a 16" would be fine, especially in the 12"-14" wood you describe. And a 16" will still allow you to dismantle 28"+ rounds if absolutely need be. I bought a 250 to send to a friend of mine in Australia, and I was impressed with the quality of the saw for the price. I was pleasantly surpised. The 250 vs. 270 could be a tough one, but I think for the load you're describing, the 250 will be plenty of saw. That said, no one has ever kicked themselves for buying more saw than they think they'll actually need...provided they can afford it, and it's in their price range. I say take the $80 and buy a pair of chaps or something if you don't have some already.

Jeff


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## Lakeside53 (May 18, 2006)

NapalmDeath said:


> Maybe two cords tops.
> MS250 or MS270 is my dilema now though.
> I would store it the same way I store every other gas powered machine I own. Clean it, change the oil, add fuel stabilizer. I would think 10 years should't be too hard to achieve.




Changing the oil on a stihl is hard...  

The most important thing for a homeowner (or anyone that only uses a saw intermittently) is not to store gas in it for extended periods, stabilizer or not. Most of my service work is because of old gas. If you're not going to use it for a few months, run it, then drain the gas, start it again and idle out the remaining carb gas. Now you can store it for a year or more... and don't use gas with alcohol in it...


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## NapalmDeath (May 18, 2006)

Thanks to everyone for all of your input and advice, much appreciated. I have ruled out the 290 and its now between the 250 and 270. I plan on buying either one the end of next week so I still have a week to decide on which to get. Whichever one I choose will be a big step up from the Craftsman I used last, and my Father-Inlaws old Echo 440 EVL.
Thanks again, Kev.


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## SawTroll (May 19, 2006)

Luke said:


> I've had both and would not buy either if I had a $350 budget. 250 would probably work but the air filtration, vibe, and power might be a dissapointment. The 290 will feel like a 372 without feeling that much stronger than the 250. Probably get a Husky 353. ....


I agree - the Husky 353 is a much better saw than the MS250. The difference in cutting performance is larger than the difference in the specs indicate, and the differences in anti-vibe and air filtration are *huge*. The 353 is probably the least costly pro quality saw on the market.

If you want to avoid Husky at all cost, the MS270 is closer to pro quality than the 250, and also has better anti-vibe and air filtration - but avoid the CB version, as it discurages proper maintenance of the bar/clutch area of the saw..


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## pinus (May 19, 2006)

NapalmDeath said:


> Thanks to everyone for all of your input and advice, much appreciated. I have ruled out the 290 and its now between the 250 and 270. I plan on buying either one the end of next week so I still have a week to decide on which to get. Whichever one I choose will be a big step up from the Craftsman I used last, and my Father-Inlaws old Echo 440 EVL.
> Thanks again, Kev.



So little wood as you plan can cut MS250 at any moment, even MS210 and MS230 can do that with no problem. I you want more serious saw get MS270.
My believe is that two piston rings are beter than single of Husq 353


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## NapalmDeath (May 21, 2006)

pinus said:


> So little wood as you plan can cut MS250 at any moment, even MS210 and MS230 can do that with no problem. I you want more serious saw get MS270.
> My believe is that two piston rings are beter than single of Husq 353


I keep going back and forth between the 250 and 270. I can't seem to decide. Since I really don't want to cut anything over 14" the 250 seems like it would suit me fine with the 16" bar at $289. On the other hand, I think someday maybe I might HAVE to cut up some bigger stuff if that's all I can get my hands on, and might not have the luxury of choosing what I want and don't want to cut. I don't totally rely on wood for heat but with the prices of oil these days I may be using my wood stove constantly this winter. So if someone offers a larger tree (say 16" to 20") to me that's bigger than I want but it's all that I can get at the time then I want to have a saw capable of taking care of it without too much difficulty. When I think that way then I shift towards the 270 which I have seen priced at $349 and also at $369 also with a 16" bar. Price would be $10 more for an 18" bar. I'm not sure yet what my dealer is selling them for. I imagine either one would be a good choice regardless.


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## fishhuntcutwood (May 21, 2006)

NapalmDeath said:


> I don't totally rely on wood for heat...



You should. I do, and it makes all the difference. After you learn the ups and downs of heating 100% with wood, you can generate a very consistent, comfortable heat. But heating entirely with wood will require more than a cord a year, and more cutting. But, heating entirely with wood will likely save you the difference between the two saws, should you go with the 270, meaning it'll pay for itself. Most of my saws have already. Electric bill of $40/month, vs. $300 a month for me. You do the math...


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## pinus (May 21, 2006)

NapalmDeath said:


> I keep going back and forth between the 250 and 270. I can't seem to decide. Since I really don't want to cut anything over 14" the 250 seems like it would suit me fine with the 16" bar at $289. On the other hand, I think someday maybe I might HAVE to cut up some bigger stuff if that's all I can get my hands on, and might not have the luxury of choosing what I want and don't want to cut. I don't totally rely on wood for heat but with the prices of oil these days I may be using my wood stove constantly this winter. So if someone offers a larger tree (say 16" to 20") to me that's bigger than I want but it's all that I can get at the time then I want to have a saw capable of taking care of it without too much difficulty. When I think that way then I shift towards the 270 which I have seen priced at $349 and also at $369 also with a 16" bar. Price would be $10 more for an 18" bar. I'm not sure yet what my dealer is selling them for. I imagine either one would be a good choice regardless.


 As fishhuntcutwood said, the house demands more than one cord per winter.
This winter was the second for my MS270 and I made mad (for me) amount of firewood and some amount of logs. Dont know how to put that number into cords but in cubic meters the amount of bucked firewood was around 60-70 m3 (near three winters to heat). Mostly dead pine and spruce some amount of birch and alder.
If the most amount of trees is below 14", go surely with 16" bar, not with 18". I use 18" only for felling of larger stuff. 18" bar is slower-heavier to move doing fast limbing difficultier and prolongs the limbing time a littlebit. At the same time, in the case large logs 18" is better to reach limbs over the log. So long and short bars have the advantages and disadvantages.
If you plan to heat the house, get 270, you hands will thankfull to you, no buzz in them after work.


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## JPP (May 21, 2006)

NapalmDeath said:


> I keep going back and forth between the 250 and 270. I can't seem to decide. Since I really don't want to cut anything over 14" the 250 seems like it would suit me fine with the 16" bar at $289. On the other hand, I think someday maybe I might HAVE to cut up some bigger stuff if that's all I can get my hands on, and might not have the luxury of choosing what I want and don't want to cut. I don't totally rely on wood for heat but with the prices of oil these days I may be using my wood stove constantly this winter. So if someone offers a larger tree (say 16" to 20") to me that's bigger than I want but it's all that I can get at the time then I want to have a saw capable of taking care of it without too much difficulty. When I think that way then I shift towards the 270 which I have seen priced at $349 and also at $369 also with a 16" bar. Price would be $10 more for an 18" bar. I'm not sure yet what my dealer is selling them for. I imagine either one would be a good choice regardless.




Stop nickel and diming yourself. 
Cutting one or two cords of wood a year is nothing, the 250 would be fine if you keep that kind of schedule over the years. In fact, you should be able to handle quite a bit more than 1 or 2 cords per year with the 250.
You did speculate already you might cut more. You will regret it if you bought a 250 and then found out later that you need another saw because it is too small for your needs. Then your $300 budget is REALLY blown out of the water.
Just take the leap ahead and get a 270 or a 280, more saw than you need NOW isn't a bad thing at all. I have run a 250 before and feel the 270 or 280 is much better.

On the other side, if you buy the 270 or 280 and feel you need a smaller saw you could always get yourself a small inexpensive saw. I know Poulan is not thought of highly here, but I am in my 11th season with my $139 Poulan from Home Depot. That saw has been absolutely flawless for me. First as my only firewood cutter, now as my limbing saw and small wood cutter. 

You probably should go with the 18" bar as you are 6'2" tall. I use 16" bars primarily since I am 5'8" but have other 14" and 18" bars for when I need them.

I went through this 250-270-280 mind eraser in January and February.
I ended up with a 260 Pro instead and am extremely, extremely pleased with it. The saw is awesome and I have cut 11 face cords of wood already with it since March. The saw has paid for itself within a few weeks as a delivered face cord goes for $60-70 around here.


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## Nbrcrnchr (May 25, 2006)

*chain saw*

If you decide to buy the 250 and then decide you need a larger saw, you can always sell it on e-bay and if last year is any indication, you may get full retail for your used saw. 

I have a 250 and even if its Anti-vibe may not be up to par of some of the other saws, I still say it is a good saw that you will not be disappointed in, unless you are planning on using it all day, every day. I also looked into the 290, 260, and 270 saws and could not justify the price increase over the 250 for what I was using it for. If all your doing is about a cord or 2 a year, the 250 will do what you are looking for and is a good choice untill you decide you want a larger saw. At that time you will have some experience with the 250 and will have a better idea if you need something a little larger or a lot larger. I personally would keep the 250 and get a larger saw at that time. As some of the folks say on this site, 2 saws are better than 1, especially if you do a lot of wood cutting.


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## NapalmDeath (May 25, 2006)

Nbrcrnchr said:


> If you decide to buy the 250 and then decide you need a larger saw, you can always sell it on e-bay and if last year is any indication, you may get full retail for your used saw.
> 
> I have a 250 and even if its Anti-vibe may not be up to par of some of the other saws, I still say it is a good saw that you will not be disappointed in, unless you are planning on using it all day, every day. I also looked into the 290, 260, and 270 saws and could not justify the price increase over the 250 for what I was using it for. If all your doing is about a cord or 2 a year, the 250 will do what you are looking for and is a good choice untill you decide you want a larger saw. At that time you will have some experience with the 250 and will have a better idea if you need something a little larger or a lot larger. I personally would keep the 250 and get a larger saw at that time. As some of the folks say on this site, 2 saws are better than 1, especially if you do a lot of wood cutting.


Thanks for the help. I'm going to get the 250 tomorrow. The dilema for me was not about the amount of wood I'll be cutting it was for me about the size of the trees I was concerned with. I'll probably never cut more than two cords of wood per year so the 250 would be fine there. I was mostly wondering weather or not a 250 would be able to handle trees bigger than the 12"-14" size I want to stay with. In case I end up having to cut trees in the 16"-20" range I was thinking I should spend the extra $60-$80 on the 270.


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## SteveH (May 25, 2006)

Now you've done your homework, it's the 250 or 270. You're likely to be pleased with the performance of either one. I run an 036 Pro, believe that is nowadays the MS361, not sure...but I heat with wood, maybe 3 cords a year plus the odd cutting for one or the other weekender's cabin to help out one of the 80 to 100 yr. old neighbors I have who have gotten to asking me to "help" them with a standing dead tree [around here what's dying off is blue spruce, the big old ones that run around 30 to 34 inch diam.]. I am the only fulltime resident here in this area. [Oldest neighbor is 102 last Xmas, I keep her in wood because she deserves it. I'm only 56, a youngster to her.] The 036 is more saw, but you aren't cutting those big trees. The bar length doesn't matter. Get whichever you decide, 16" or 18". You can always pick up the other one with a couple loops if you need or want it. We're not talking big money here. I keep different bar lengths around, lots of us do. However, it has not been my experience that I regretted having more Hp or a longer bar once I got it. I used to think I'd never need more than 18", now I run 20" and can't believe I lived without it for 30 yr.


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## SawTroll (May 26, 2006)

SteveH said:


> ..... I run an 036 Pro, believe that is nowadays the MS361, not sure....



Well, the 361 _replaced _the 036/360, but it is a totally different and much better saw....:rockn:

Anyway, I wouldn't want the 250 as my only saw, regardless the size of the wood - there just are too many better 3-cube saws out there.
The 270 is one of them, the Husky 353 another, and both are well worth the price difference compared to the 250....:deadhorse:


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## NapalmDeath (May 26, 2006)

Well after going to the shop today I bought the MS270. I had decided on the 250, but after seeing the two of them side by side in person I figured the 270 was worth the extra $60. Seems like with my needs, it will be the first and last saw I'll ever buy hopefully. I won't be able to pick up the saw till Tuesday though. Thanks again for everyones help here. If I had not joined this site and asked alot of questions who knows what I would have bought.:rockn:


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## pinus (May 26, 2006)

Nothing wrong
Be carefull and keep chains sharp


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## THALL10326 (May 27, 2006)

NapalmDeath said:


> Well after going to the shop today I bought the MS270. I had decided on the 250, but after seeing the two of them side by side in person I figured the 270 was worth the extra $60. Seems like with my needs, it will be the first and last saw I'll ever buy hopefully. I won't be able to pick up the saw till Tuesday though. Thanks again for everyones help here. If I had not joined this site and asked alot of questions who knows what I would have bought.:rockn:



Good choice, the 270 is a real smooth running saw.................


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## NapalmDeath (May 27, 2006)

pinus said:


> Nothing wrong


What do you mean Pinus.


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## NapalmDeath (May 27, 2006)

THALL10326 said:


> Good choice, the 270 is a real smooth running saw.................


That's what I have heard from all of the responses to my origional question. After I was at the shop yesterday, and I had the two saws there, I kept thinking about how many people here had told me that the 270 was much better saw for the extra few bucks so that also influenced my decision greatly. Alot of people on this forum really seem knowledgeable about saws, and were very helpful to me. 
Thanks, Kev.


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## THALL10326 (May 27, 2006)

NapalmDeath said:


> Yea that's what I have found out from all of the responses to my origional question. After I was at the shop yesterday and I had the two saws there I kept thinking about how many people here had told me that the 270 was much better saw for the extra few bucks so that also influenced my decision greatly. Alot of people on this forum really seem to know alot about saws.
> Thanks, Kev.



I had to call Stihl one evening when I had a customer comparing the 260 and the 270. He like you was undecided on which one and for the life of me I couldn't convince him of either one. So I called for help. The feller at Stihl said the 270 is one of the smoothest running saws Stihl puts out. I relayed that to the customer and it was a done deal. You did good, real good.


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## SawTroll (May 29, 2006)

I think there is little doubt that the 270 is smoother running than both the 250 and 260.

Congratulations with the MS270, Napalmdeath.


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## pinus (May 29, 2006)

NapalmDeath said:


> What do you mean Pinus.


You probably will not disappointed with it.


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## pinus (May 29, 2006)

SawTroll said:


> I think there is little doubt that the 270 is smoother running than both the 250 and 260.
> 
> Congratulations with the MS270, Napalmdeath.


comparing 026/270 I say that is smoother.
And AV. 026 after less than tank of fuel was buzz in hands. 270, all the day, no any buzz. That thing I like especially


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## NapalmDeath (May 29, 2006)

pinus said:


> You probably will not disappointed with it.


Thanks, you guys have been extremely helpful.


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## NapalmDeath (May 31, 2006)

SawTroll said:


> I think there is little doubt that the 270 is smoother running than both the 250 and 260.
> 
> Congratulations with the MS270, Napalmdeath.


Thank you. I picked up the saw yesterday. I never would have thought I'd be so enamored staring at a chainsaw sitting in my garage perched upon a shelf. Almost brought a tear to me eye...


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## pinus (Jun 1, 2006)

NapalmDeath said:


> Thanks, you guys have been extremely helpful.


I learned a lot about saws and their maintaince here too, great guys here:rockn:


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## vtfly (Jun 18, 2006)

So a couple of months has gone by, what do you think of the 270 now?


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## NapalmDeath (Jun 18, 2006)

vtfly said:


> So a couple of months has gone by, what do you think of the 270 now?


I love it. It's a little hard to start sometimes, but other then that it's great. I'm so glad I spent a little extra on the 270 over the 250. Thanks for asking


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## pinus (Jun 19, 2006)

What bar and chain you have?


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## NapalmDeath (Jun 19, 2006)

pinus said:


> What bar and chain you have?


16" bar and the same chain that came with the saw.


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## pinus (Jun 20, 2006)

16" is good lenght for it. Chain is then probably RM2 (??), "weekend warrior".
Is it with quick chain adjuster or classic-two bar holding nuts?


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## NapalmDeath (Jun 20, 2006)

pinus said:


> 16" is good lenght for it. Chain is then probably RM2 (??), "weekend warrior".
> Is it with quick chain adjuster or classic-two bar holding nuts?


I chose not to get the quick chain adjust and thought in the long-run it would be best to have the classic two-bolt system. Chain is RM2.


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## pinus (Jun 20, 2006)

Probably you can get easily 1-2 loops of 0.325 RS, RM or now even RSC chain.
Always is necessary to have more than a single loop of chain. Even, when you are using saw very few


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## SawTroll (Jun 20, 2006)

RSC, RSC3, RS, and even regular RM should show a marked improvement in cutting over the RM2. It is the worst chain design in the Stihl line-up.

16" bar should be close to optimum for that saw!  
Try to stay away from longer bars, unless it is for just a few cuts.


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## buck futter (Jun 20, 2006)

the troll is right. The longest bar I own is a 18" which I put on a warm 359. I used it recently to dice a 24"yellow birch and it was absolutely no hindrance what so ever. but is handier for smaller stuff. I was limbing a evergreen and switch to a smaller saw with a 16"bar and it really made a difference in handling. the 16 is typically the smallest bar readily available in the .325 or regular 3/8. It used to be you could get a 15" but I don't see them to much any more.

keep us posted on the saw. I would be happy with that saw but I really wish they would have went with a vertically split case or even a hybrid like the husky 350.

enjoy 
Buck


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## SawTroll (Jun 21, 2006)

buck futter said:


> ... the 16 is typically the smallest bar readily available in the .325 or regular 3/8. It used to be you could get a 15" but I don't see them to much any more. ...


Over here it is quite different.
13" is standard on 3 cube saws, and 15" on most larger saws - even the MS660. :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: 

Personally I don't care for the 13" bars on 3 cube saws - they usually balance better with a 15".


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## pinus (Jun 21, 2006)

Here is 15" standard for >=3 cube saws. 13"-14" for smaller saws. 18" bars are available, siting on shelves, longer bars are demanding special order. 15" is the common setup. Usually, anybody not wants carry heavy long bar in the bush.


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## NapalmDeath (Jun 22, 2006)

SawTroll said:


> RSC, RSC3, RS, and even regular RM should show a marked improvement in cutting over the RM2. It is the worst chain design in the Stihl line-up.
> 
> 16" bar should be close to optimum for that saw!
> Try to stay away from longer bars, unless it is for just a few cuts.


So far I have only used the saw to cut a few very small oak trees. I'm hoping next month to really give the saw a workout as a friend offered me a good size oak tree he claims is about 18-20" as long as I clean up everything. Of course I agreed and I just have to wait until he gives me the go-ahead and is ready for me to take it. 
Should I purchase a spare chain to keep on hand? If I do, I suppose I should get a RSC, RS, or RM instead of the RM2? Also, If I get a spare chain should I get a spare bar also? If I get a spare bar, I'm wondering if I should get a 18" instead of having a second 16" bar.


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## JPP (Jun 22, 2006)

Definitely have a spare chain around. 
It doesn't hurt to have different sized bars for your saws.
I have 2 different sized bar/chain (14" and 18") combos for my Poulan.
I have 16" now for my Stihl but will also add a 20" when I get around to my 3 large fallen oaks.


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## SawTroll (Jun 23, 2006)

NapalmDeath said:


> ...
> Should I purchase a spare chain to keep on hand? If I do, I suppose I should get a RSC, RS, or RM instead of the RM2? .....


Yes, definately.
Two chains per bar is the minimum, in case you hit hard objects and messes up the chain.
I am not sure that the RSC and RSC3 are out in .325 yet, though.

For my 361 I keep minimum two RSC and one RM for each bar (15 and 18").

An extra bar is also nice to have availiable, in case you get the bar and chain pinched. Otherwise, you need to bring an extra saw, or work together with someone, who also brings a saw.


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## pinus (Jun 23, 2006)

Saw Troll said most. If to continue, going only with chainsaw to fell real trees is not the enought amount of tools to have. Wedges and "old friend" axe are nice to have also:jester:


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## NapalmDeath (Jun 23, 2006)

I'm going to the dealer next week to pick up a new Stihl trimmer FS55, should I get a RS or RM chain while I'm there.
Thanks, Kev.


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## JPP (Jun 23, 2006)

Beautiful saw!!! Now you need to get some sawdust and oil stains on it, then it will look 'right'.


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## NapalmDeath (Jun 23, 2006)

JPP said:


> Beautiful saw!!! Now you need to get some sawdust and oil stains on it, then it will look 'right'.


Thanks! I guess it is too pretty still.


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## THALL10326 (Jun 23, 2006)

NapalmDeath said:


> I'm going to the dealer next week to pick up a new Stihl trimmer FS55, should I get a RS or RM chain while I'm there.
> Thanks, Kev.




Dayummmmmmm that saw looks like its been waxed and buffed, niceeeeeeeeeeee. Get some RS chain and before you decide on the FS55 consider the FS80. Though 90.00 more its well worth the price in smoothness and comfort not counting the extra power and speed. Great looking saws there. You got a winner there......................


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## WRW (Jun 23, 2006)

Thall,

I actually prefer the FS55 to the FS80. When I moved up, I couldn't notice any power gain, the FS80 is a little heavier, and it blows hot air off the cylinder directly onto my right arm. It does start easier, however.

NapalmDeath,

Get two RS and one RM for the stumps and dirty wood.


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## THALL10326 (Jun 23, 2006)

WRW said:


> Thall,
> 
> I actually prefer the FS55 to the FS80. When I moved up, I couldn't notice any power gain, the FS80 is a little heavier, and it blows hot air off the cylinder directly onto my right arm. It does start easier, however.
> 
> ...



Well thats cool. We sell to the local town here and they have about 20 or so FS80's and perfer them merely because of the smoothness. It does have a bit more power but you would need heavy grass to see it. Beings you like the FS55 cool. Its a good machine as well. I sell many of both, and rarely get a complaint on either one.......


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## NapalmDeath (Jun 23, 2006)

I'm kind of debating between the FS55 and the FS46. I like the straight shaft of the FS55 but I like the longer length of the FS46 as I'm 6'2" and have difficulty with the trimmer I have now. Which do you guys recommend for me between the two?



another pic of the MS270...



...and one last one of the left side.


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## WRW (Jun 23, 2006)

I used to be 6' 3.75" but have probably shrunk a bit. I, far and away, prefer the straight shaft. One thing to remember, though, is that the straight shaft turns the oppposite direction of the curved shaft. That means that, in order to keep from staining a wall, you must either walk backward or operate the trimmer left-handed.

THALL,
I get into some heavy grass on occasion, as well as honeysuckle and the ivys...English and poison. To be honest, though, the new one may not be broken in yet.


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## NapalmDeath (Jun 23, 2006)

THALL10326 said:


> Well thats cool. We sell to the local town here and they have about 20 or so FS80's and perfer them merely because of the smoothness. It does have a bit more power but you would need heavy grass to see it. Beings you like the FS55 cool. Its a good machine as well. I sell many of both, and rarely get a complaint on either one.......


I noticed in the Stihl catalog the FS80 actually has a smaller engine displacement. The catalog states that the FS55 has 27.2cc and the FS80 has 25.4cc yet the FS80 is rated at 1.27 bhp and the FS55 at 1.01bhp??? 
FS46/FS55/FS80...here I go again. Sounds familier huh? Kinda like my old dilema...MS250/MS270/MS290 saga. Another question I have comparing the FS46 and FS55 is that the FS46 is aimed towards taller users with it's longer shaft, is the FS55 because of the straight shaft good for short and tall users?


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## THALL10326 (Jun 23, 2006)

NapalmDeath said:


> I noticed in the Stihl catalog the FS80 actually has a smaller engine displacement. The catalog states that the FS55 has 27.2cc and the FS80 has 25.4cc yet the FS80 is rated at 1.27 bhp and the FS55 at 1.01bhp???
> FS46/FS55/FS80...here I go again. Sounds familier huh? Kinda like my old dilema...MS250/MS270/MS290 saga. Another question I have comparing the FS46 and FS55 is that the FS46 is aimed towards taller users with it's longer shaft, is the FS55 because of the straight shaft good for short and tall users?



The engine on the 80 is a tad smaller but a different design that puts out more power. To resolve your question heres what you do. Go to the dealer and tell them to fire up the 55 and the 80 and then you pick up each one and give it a feel. I'm betting once you feel them run in your hand you'll take the 80. I do this all the time and 9 times out of 10 the 80 goes out the door. Not knocking the 55 but if you really give them a fair feel in the hand the 80 is a much better machine. Look at the trigger on each one, how the motor mounts so the shaft, you will see the differance and why the 80 wins out 9 out of ten times. As for the 45/46 machines they have a curved shaft leaving you to that string head or poly cut head only, never a blade. Something to consider. Also bent shafts are no good for reaching under fences or in tight places where grass has grown up under something. Just things to consider so you won't be disappointed down the road.....


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 23, 2006)

I'm with Thall on this one... Sell a lot of both... but..


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## masiman (Jun 23, 2006)

I have an 80 and like it alot. Way more power and more reliable than my throw away Ryobi.

I also like the straight shaft for edging better than a curved shaft.

No issues running a blade on it. I even use it as a poor mans leaf shredder. I just work the blade into my leaf bins. I can get the head buried and moving around, but slowly.

I have not regretted it the purchase at all.


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## THALL10326 (Jun 23, 2006)

masiman said:


> I have an 80 and like it alot. Way more power and more reliable than my throw away Ryobi.
> 
> I also like the straight shaft for edging better than a curved shaft.
> 
> ...



Have heard that a bunch of times. We sell every model from the little 45 up to the 250 and all in between. The 80 outsells them all. Not that its all that much better but for the price and how well it holds up its hard to beat. We sell alot of 55's too, not knocking them at all, just saying feel them both before buying........................


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## masiman (Jun 23, 2006)

I pretty much would have been happy with whatever I would have bought from Stihl or Echo. Their other "lighter" models are very solid machines. Almost the same choice as the 250 vs. 260 . I was just so fed up with crappy equipment that I overbought. I don't regret it. I rationalize that one day I will be able to move away from this area and get that piece of land that will justify it.


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## THALL10326 (Jun 23, 2006)

masiman said:


> I pretty much would have been happy with whatever I would have bought from Stihl or Echo. Their other "lighter" models are very solid machines. Almost the same choice as the 250 vs. 260 . I was just so fed up with crappy equipment that I overbought. I don't regret it. I rationalize that one day I will be able to move away from this area and get that piece of land that will justify it.



Where are you in Virginia???


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## masiman (Jun 23, 2006)

Springfield. I think Stihldoc is out my way. I am not sure which store he works at and did not know how to ask.

When we were starting to house hunt in 04 I was very interested in Purcelville, Lovettsville and Lucketts. You could get more land but not alot more house for not a lot less money. Especially when you factor in the commute plus we have really young kids, the numbers just didn't work out. I work with a bunch a people that live out that way and further. Had a funeral just last year in Berryville. Beautiful parts out there.

Keep me in mind if you need a "local" buyer for a used 026/260, :hmm3grin2orange: .


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## THALL10326 (Jun 23, 2006)

masiman said:


> Springfield. I think Stihldoc is out my way. I am not sure which store he works at and did not know how to ask.
> 
> When we were starting to house hunt in 04 I was very interested in Purcelville, Lovettsville and Lucketts. You could get more land but not alot more house for not a lot less money. Especially when you factor in the commute plus we have really young kids, the numbers just didn't work out. I work with a bunch a people that live out that way and further. Had a funeral just last year in Berryville. Beautiful parts out there.
> 
> Keep me in mind if you need a "local" buyer for a used 026/260, :hmm3grin2orange: .




Awwwwwwwww Springfeild,ok. I use to go to a pool hall down there and shoot a game or too. I'm up in Leesburg. Stihldoc is in Vienna, not too far from you. Berryville is nice but they are building it up fast. Winchester may well be you best bet for a good price on some land..............


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## pinus (Jun 24, 2006)

NapalmDeath said:


> I'm kind of debating between the FS55 and the FS46. I like the straight shaft of the FS55 but I like the longer length of the FS46 as I'm 6'2" and have difficulty with the trimmer I have now. Which do you guys recommend for me between the two?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



With bar cover difficult to look, but chain seem rather RM than RM2


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## masiman (Jun 24, 2006)

THALL10326 said:


> Awwwwwwwww Springfeild,ok. I use to go to a pool hall down there and shoot a game or too. I'm up in Leesburg. Stihldoc is in Vienna, not too far from you. Berryville is nice but they are building it up fast. Winchester may well be you best bet for a good price on some land..............



I saw in your avatar that you were out that way. If Stihldoc is in Vienna, I may have been to his shop. We inherited a mower from wife's friend/coworker that lived up there. We did a checkup through the lawnmower shop there. I think they carry only Stihl chainsaws but maybe Echo too. Nice shop. They did just get a puppy recently. He was a little rambunctious. I did not mind too much but I am sure someone was bound to get nipped.

Everything within 2 hours is getting built up. Houses are starting to sell slower though. We'll see what that does over the next year or two.


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