# Huztl FarmerTec 070 Build Thread with upgrade info and completed saw



## Bedford T

Just look at that clutch 

http://www.huztl.net/Free-Shipping-...patible-With-STIHL-070-Chain-Saw-p435087.html

I am going to go ahead and start this thread. The kits are expected to be ready no later than 1st part of May and then a little more time to get them to our door. They have a huge trade show there the middle of this month and they have been busy or it would have been out. You can buy the prebuilt if you want its ready to go.

I would like to present an idea to those that would never consider a big saw, now is the time. We have an amazing milling section here. But the ultimate chainsaw is almost at our fingertips . When we get the saw kits we could order a 090 66mm jug kit QG09066 (does not show on website yet) and update the clutch to the 6 shoe clutch 1109 160 2200 and there is a thread currently on that clutch. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-090-6-shoe-clutches.307878/.

this kit would become the basis for a real monster 137cc saw. its a huge saw anyway but put the 090 goodies on it and bam. It would be great if a bunch of people bought the kits and we figured out how to do the conversion which is doable. Guessing here...If the 090 clutch is 150 and the jug kit is 60 and the kit is lets guess 230. 440$

Its turns around 8000rpm so its a grumbler. we are used to dirt bikes this will be more like a tree Harley. and when they come out with the drills and winches and if you can have this saw to mount them to, wow, another use for it. pulling cars out of ditches or moving hay up in the loft is what you could tell the wife.


----------



## TimTaylor

Count me in. I have spent some time looking for an 090 to go on the mil instead of the 076. And building a new one will me very cool

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## Hydro74

Good thread! I noticed the pre built one the other day I'm thinking about getting one just to pull it apart and then rebuild with the 090 goodies the PDF workshop and parts manuals for the 090 are readily available.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

good times


----------



## olyman

where is the price on that 6 shoe clutch??? stihl thinks they are gold!!!!!!!!


----------



## Bedford T

I don't know


----------



## blsnelling

Are you on Huztl payroll?


----------



## olyman

blsnelling said:


> Are you on Huztl payroll?


why is that important??? I'm sure if hes a seller,, a mod will be notified in half a instant..........


----------



## blsnelling

olyman said:


> I'm sure if hes a seller,, a mod will be notified in half a instant..........


Why would you do that?


----------



## 67L36Driver

blsnelling said:


> Are you on Huztl payroll?



Pimp he is?


----------



## olyman

blsnelling said:


> Why would you do that?


keep your opinions to yourself...I asked him about the clutch shoes,,and id turn him in??. get real someday.........


----------



## Brandon Miller

It's about as close to owning an 090 as any of us will ever be. Without selling your left nut to buy an original of course.


----------



## bulletpruf

In for updates...


----------



## blsnelling

olyman said:


> keep your opinions to yourself...I asked him about the clutch shoes,,and id turn him in??. get real someday.........


Attitude much? Where did I state any kind of opinion?


----------



## olyman

blsnelling said:


> Attitude much? Where did I state any kind of opinion?


bye brad. get someone else banned...


----------



## blsnelling

olyman said:


> bye brad. get someone else banned...


You must have me confused with someone else.


----------



## TPA

Looks like they just put it on sale


----------



## bulletpruf

Link?


----------



## Boogedy_Man

http://www.huztl.net/Free-Shipping-...patible-With-STIHL-070-Chain-Saw-p435087.html


----------



## foeke

What a strange direction this thread is taking. My English isn't perfect, maybe that's were I got lost. Somebody asks if an other poster is affiliated with a brand. The answer can be yes, no, somewhere in between, or non of your business. But suddenly it turns all personal to the one asking the question. Maybe something from the past, but it is distracting for all who want to know how this "builing a cool and cheap milling beast" topic is going to unfold.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

Americans can be cruel to one another for little reason. The thread will proceed. We will get our beast!


----------



## grack

I like the green one's better.


----------



## Bedford T

Sweet, what a brand name. Be hard to loose in the leaves


----------



## Bedford T

I was pouring over manuals i have to see what was needed and the 070/090 manual that is out on the internet is missing quite a bit, it looks like someone whittled it down for the 90G with the transmission mainly. There is enough that is different that just using an ipl might cause mistakes. will you guys look and see if you got a complete manual?

i also found a TI 20.96 that says the 070 shoe replacement can be had with linings the parts number is/was 1106 007 1007, i though that was interesting.


----------



## bulletpruf

Ask and you shall receive..


----------



## Boomer 87

Thats not a bad price for its displacement. I myself just used my grandberg for the first time yesterday, slabbed up an oak with a homelite xl923. This saw would probly be the ticket. Problem i have is it being a blatant knock off of a good german tool. I has a U.S made old muscle saw on my U.S made mill. A chinese power head mite turn my stomach too much. I guess id really like someone here who is getting one to report back on the quality of said machine. I like U.S bc i live here , but for me its quality of equipment and pride and craftsmanship that went into it, no matter who made it.


----------



## Bedford T

bulletpruf said:


> Ask and you shall receive..


Thanks, but guess what, that's the manual i was talking about. Nowhere near complete a total of 27 pages and if you look it mainly covers the 90G. We need to keep looking. This one is not going to have a transmission. I think.


----------



## Bedford T

If I were you I would stick with the German tool. You can watch and make fun of us as we build and then mill with it.  you can always build yours by reading the thread after we are done  I got a feeling we are going struggle, this baby is huge and if you put the big top on it monster comes to mind. If you need some confidence look at Johnnybars 660 cutting slabs, I got one but it's only 19secs long. The 660 is a blatant copy too. They actually cut like real ones. Plenty of videos proving that. Don't be skard


----------



## blsnelling

I think you missed his point. Regardless of how they run, they're still blatant copies.


----------



## Boomer 87

Not intending to bash anyone here, i would be interested to see how theyd hold up. I dont know if anyones interested but @Robin Wood is able to get the real McCoy ms 720/070 new still and ship to you.


----------



## Boomer 87

If it works great then awesome im glad. But to me holding one in my hands just wouldnt mean nearly as much as the real deal


----------



## Bedford T

Boomer 87 said:


> Not intending to bash anyone here, i would be interested to see how theyd hold up. I dont know if anyones interested nut @Robin Wood is able to get the real McCoy ms 720/070 new still and ship to you.


Wow the real McCoy shipped to me. That's out of my reach dollar wise. But it would be great to see a photo of it being held by a member here, you would really enjoy that for sure. These kits just put more in my reach. No more no less on the reason. I still buy Jif and helmsman's but gotta cheat on the toys, never had a muscle car either.


----------



## Boomer 87

Trust me i get it, im a mechanic in a town of about 5000 ppl. So i get stretching your buck for sure. I will say the one good thing about that saw is its a clone of a good saw. So if parts and tolerances are in spec itll run. Its not like just a saw made in Bing bong to who knows what specs.


----------



## Boomer 87

Bedford T said:


> Wow the real McCoy shipped to me. That's out of my reach dollar wise. But it would be great to see a photo of it being held by a member here, you would really enjoy that for sure. These kits just put more in my reach. No more no less on the reason. I still buy Jif and helmsman's but gotta cheat on the toys, never had a muscle car either.



I thought real hard about buyin one and even got a quote, but i couldnt justify it for starting out. More of a want not a need, but i will be watching this thread, as im anxious to see what comes of them. 

Is there any long term tests from any of the other clone saws 660s or 361s


----------



## Bedford T

The 660 came out first and had a lot of use. Last August I think first was built


----------



## fwgsaw

I don't think it's the fact that huztl is making cheap saws that irritates some of us I think that it's the fact that there selling these cheap reproductions on a reputation of a quality saw that bothers us. The other issue that comes up is sellers start to try and sell brand name saws with Chinese parts on them or just outright fake them completely. It's a free country buy what you want but be prepared to get opinions about such products that you may not like.


----------



## Bedford T

I don't make them. If it makes you feel better have at it. But start your own thread. This is for people that want to participate. You can say do feel anyway you want. We want to build a saw in here. I hope you understand.


----------



## andrethegiant70

Sheesh, the hostility! Life is a definitely a circle.

It's all good, let's have fun.

I JUST bought the 660 for the fun of doing a puzzle. But, I could easily see a knockoff 070/090 in a few months, once you guys have worked the bugs out . I do think that this saw has the potential to be more problematic... more magnesium (think cracks in, for instance, the tank), more stress on the bearings and crank (137cc, milling duties, etc), just to name a few items. But what the hell... might be fantastic, and couldn't NOT be fun.

Subscribing.


----------



## Bedford T

I agree with the problems. Starting with the build. But man it will be fun.


----------



## fwgsaw

andrethegiant70 said:


> Sheesh, the hostility! Life is a definitely a circle.
> 
> It's all good, let's have fun.
> 
> I JUST bought the 660 for the fun of doing a puzzle. But, I could easily see a knockoff 070/090 in a few months, once you guys have worked the bugs out . I do think that this saw has the potential to be more problematic... more magnesium (think cracks in, for instance, the tank), more stress on the bearings and crank (137cc, milling duties, etc), just to name a few items. But what the hell... might be fantastic, and couldn't NOT be fun.
> 
> Subscribing.


No hostility going on here just the facts are the facts. I have no problem of somebody having fun but for some of us these fake saws are just all wrong. I always here people buy these because they can't afford the real thing. In my opinion you will loose money buying a knockoff vs OEM.


----------



## Boomer 87

Im kinda on the fence on the topic. Am i understanding correctly this saws is complete and not a parts kit. Or is it like the 660 and it has to be assembled from ground up?


----------



## Bedford T

Both ways. The discussion is meant for builders. But obviously if you own one that was pre built fine.


----------



## Bedford T

Might want to re read first post I made to clear it up


----------



## Boomer 87

Gothcha


----------



## Boomer 87

I see the complete is about 350 bones, i imagine theyll hamer you for another 100 to ship that monster


----------



## andrethegiant70

fwgsaw said:


> No hostility going on here just the facts are the facts. I have no problem of somebody having fun but for some of us these fake saws are just all wrong. I always here people buy these because they can't afford the real thing. In my opinion you will loose money buying a knockoff vs OEM.



I can't really find issue with that. And I believe that thinking of them as OEM replacements is a bad idea. Stihl is certainly at least one of the few quality benchmark manufacturers... and these Chinese things are most certainly not that. They are really just other Chinese saws. But, I have maybe thirty or so saws out there in the shop and they've all been an enjoyable project at one time or another. They just sit there... waiting for me to die, I guess. I use just a few of them... a ported 026, a 372, and miller or two. A couple more weeks in the shed with a decent bottle of scotch seems like a good reason for me try a few of these silly kits out. Think old guy doing "ship in a bottle." I'm still going to trade my red light for another 066... that's sounds like another great project.

For the record, I still drop a lot of coin at my Stihl dealer.. but I really do understand the anxiety they might be having. In the 90's, my coffee shops got run out of business by Starbucks... I didn't appreciate that at all, as you can imagine. It was years before I went into one of those places... but they are incredibly competitive and they are part of life now, and all that gnashing and railing against them made me look like an idiot... which I don't need any help with. I go in there once in a while when the choices are slim. The future is here, and my dissenting vote didn't count for ****. I just make it a point to slop some half and half around... you know, passive aggressive-like.


----------



## Derf

There are knock off Chinese watches that tell the time just as well as their fashionable originals. Some people are Ok with having a watch that looks expensive to tell the time, even if it isn't manufactured, assembled and sold from Switzerland. To me, a watch is meant to tell time and if it looks good on my wrist and does that for a decent price then maybe you're happy. But maybe you aren't if you know that it is a copy of the real (expensive) version. Seems those people are more interested in the quality of the item or the status, or caché that goes along with it. 

Same with saws- some people just want a large displacement saw that cuts (mills) big wood for an affordable price- these saws are based on tried and true designs that are difficult to come by these days. Some people will be happy with the result of a copy for what it can do for you- others want the saw as some kind of appreciation for quality, or status of owning something rare or expensive. 

At the end of the day, the things we buy are used by some as tools, and others to inflate their ego.


----------



## Derf

Derf said:


> There are knock off Chinese watches that tell the time just as well as their fashionable originals. Some people are Ok with having a watch that looks expensive to tell the time, even if it isn't manufactured, assembled and sold from Switzerland. To me, a watch is meant to tell time and if it looks good on my wrist and does that for a decent price then maybe you're happy. But maybe you aren't if you know that it is a copy of the real (expensive) version. Seems those people are more interested in the quality of the item or the status, or caché that goes along with it.
> 
> For women, it's handbags. There are expensive Gucci/Coach/Michael Kors/Luis Vuitton high fashion bags that cost $5k, and knock offs that are $30. They both hold your stuff as you walk around during the day. But for some it's about the exclusivity of owning something expensive and for others it's just about being perceived as fashionable.
> 
> Same with saws- some people just want a large displacement saw that cuts (mills) big wood for an affordable price- these saws are based on tried and true designs that are difficult to come by these days. Some people will be happy with the result of a copy for what it can do for you- others want the saw as some kind of appreciation for quality, or status of owning something rare or expensive.
> 
> At the end of the day, the things we buy are used by some as tools, and others to inflate their ego.


----------



## Bedford T

Derf said:


> There are knock off Chinese watches that tell the time just as well as their fashionable originals. Some people are Ok with having a watch that looks expensive to tell the time, even if it isn't manufactured, assembled and sold from Switzerland. To me, a watch is meant to tell time and if it looks good on my wrist and does that for a decent price then maybe you're happy. But maybe you aren't if you know that it is a copy of the real (expensive) version. Seems those people are more interested in the quality of the item or the status, or caché that goes along with it.
> 
> Same with saws- some people just want a large displacement saw that cuts (mills) big wood for an affordable price- these saws are based on tried and true designs that are difficult to come by these days. Some people will be happy with the result of a copy for what it can do for you- others want the saw as some kind of appreciation for quality, or status of owning something rare or expensive.
> 
> At the end of the day, the things we buy are used by some as tools, and others to inflate their ego.



there is a difference, these saws don't come with stihl on them like fake watches and handbags. in fact look in my sig. i dont pretend they are stihls just copies.


----------



## fwgsaw

andrethegiant70 said:


> I can't really find issue with that. And I believe that thinking of them as OEM replacements is a bad idea. Stihl is certainly at least one of the few quality benchmark manufacturers... and these Chinese things are most certainly not that. They are really just other Chinese saws. But, I have maybe thirty or so saws out there in the shop and they've all been an enjoyable project at one time or another. They just sit there... waiting for me to die, I guess. I use just a few of them... a ported 026, a 372, and miller or two. A couple more weeks in the shed with a decent bottle of scotch seems like a good reason for me try a few of these silly kits out. Think old guy doing "ship in a bottle." I'm still going to trade my red light for another 066... that's sounds like another great project.
> 
> For the record, I still drop a lot of coin at my Stihl dealer.. but I really do understand the anxiety they might be having. In the 90's, my coffee shops got run out of business by Starbucks... I didn't appreciate that at all, as you can imagine. It was years before I went into one of those places... but they are incredibly competitive and they are part of life now, and all that gnashing and railing against them made me look like an idiot... which I don't need any help with. I go in there once in a while when the choices are slim. The future is here, and my dissenting vote didn't count for ****. I just make it a point to slop some half and half around... you know, passive aggressive-like.


What made me post was the op used the words ultimate saw! The fact that the op stating in his first post that the Chinese 090 knockoff is the ultimate saw just couldn't be left alone. I think that was Brad's reasoning for posting as well. I could be way off here and should let Brad speak for himself and he can come and correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## fwgsaw

andrethegiant70 said:


> I can't really find issue with that. And I believe that thinking of them as OEM replacements is a bad idea. Stihl is certainly at least one of the few quality benchmark manufacturers... and these Chinese things are most certainly not that. They are really just other Chinese saws. But, I have maybe thirty or so saws out there in the shop and they've all been an enjoyable project at one time or another. They just sit there... waiting for me to die, I guess. I use just a few of them... a ported 026, a 372, and miller or two. A couple more weeks in the shed with a decent bottle of scotch seems like a good reason for me try a few of these silly kits out. Think old guy doing "ship in a bottle." I'm still going to trade my red light for another 066... that's sounds like another great project.
> 
> For the record, I still drop a lot of coin at my Stihl dealer.. but I really do understand the anxiety they might be having. In the 90's, my coffee shops got run out of business by Starbucks... I didn't appreciate that at all, as you can imagine. It was years before I went into one of those places... but they are incredibly competitive and they are part of life now, and all that gnashing and railing against them made me look like an idiot... which I don't need any help with. I go in there once in a while when the choices are slim. The future is here, and my dissenting vote didn't count for ****. I just make it a point to slop some half and half around... you know, passive aggressive-like.


So your saying that Starbucks was coping your local coffee or you saying Starbucks maybe brought something new to the table and people realized it was better? In this case there's nothing better about a clone 090.


----------



## Bedford T

Well let me back up and say ultimate copy


----------



## fwgsaw

Derf said:


> There are knock off Chinese watches that tell the time just as well as their fashionable originals. Some people are Ok with having a watch that looks expensive to tell the time, even if it isn't manufactured, assembled and sold from Switzerland. To me, a watch is meant to tell time and if it looks good on my wrist and does that for a decent price then maybe you're happy. But maybe you aren't if you know that it is a copy of the real (expensive) version. Seems those people are more interested in the quality of the item or the status, or caché that goes along with it.
> 
> Same with saws- some people just want a large displacement saw that cuts (mills) big wood for an affordable price- these saws are based on tried and true designs that are difficult to come by these days. Some people will be happy with the result of a copy for what it can do for you- others want the saw as some kind of appreciation for quality, or status of owning something rare or expensive.
> 
> At the end of the day, the things we buy are used by some as tools, and others to inflate their ego.


So I'm guessing you have a business and use tools to make a living? I use all kinds of tools to make a living and Chinese knockoffs of anything I depend on day in day out would be a really big financial mistake. But that's just me.


----------



## fwgsaw

Bedford T said:


> Well let me back up and say ultimate copy


Lol, you got me there. Ultimate copy is perfect!!


----------



## Boogedy_Man

Boomer 87 said:


> I see the complete is about 350 bones, i imagine theyll hamer you for another 100 to ship that monster



Free shipping. I would never buy a completed clone, personally, but definitely see the appeal in building a kit.


----------



## Boomer 87

To each his own really, if a guy wants a clone saw then by all means. Now if a guy buys a clone 070 and tries to pass it as a genuine that i have a big issue with. Many a guys been trimmed that way. I actually bought a bluemax = redmax clone on super sale. Ran flawlessly but i ended up selling it as i felt uneasy having it. I use quality tools, but id be a liar if i said youd never see me in a harbor freight. No difference i guess.


----------



## Boomer 87

Does 070 have same bar pad as a 044 056 066?


----------



## andrethegiant70

fwgsaw said:


> What made me post was the op used the words ultimate saw! The fact that the op stating in his first post that the Chinese 090 knockoff is the ultimate saw just couldn't be left alone. I think that was Brad's reasoning for posting as well. I could be way off here and should let Brad speak for himself and he can come and correct me if I'm wrong.



Yea, don't take me the wrong way, it's good to point out the issues and the the back and forth is fun... otherwise, why have a forum at all? There's some great rainy Sunday stuff, right here. And just to share my personal opinion (that nobody asked for), I think those arguing against Chinese knockoffs in favor of the true-blue item really do have the moral high ground. But the fact is that I always have to remind myself that taking my own position too seriously is probably not going to help in the long run. Frustrating, but there you have it. I suppose it's ok to go and have a Starbucks coffee since I've clearly lost the fight. No one listened to a frickin' thing I said anyways.

And, I agree, a Chinese saw isn't likely to be the ultimate anything in the very near future. An 090, yes, but a similar Chinese saw that's STAMPED 090, probably not. But it might be pretty good, and it's hard to ignore the displacement factor. Should make for some good reading and maybe (if they don't end up being paperweights) some good old cussing from the shed....


----------



## Bedford T

I was looking at bars last night and I think so. Stihl made a special bar for the 090 but not sure what's different is never got that far in my research. I will post it in a minute


----------



## Bedford T

This is a cryptic note i made for myself but it's got the data in it on that bar i mentioned.

special just for 090 bar 
36'', 0.063 gauge, 0.404 pitch 46RSF104E
Chain loop
3002 000 8052


----------



## Boomer 87

I was just curious bc i have a 056 super im getting a 56" bar and ripping chain for just curious if the 070 would fit that bar and have same number of drive links


----------



## Boomer 87

Heres another angle, how bout the legit oem stihls being made in china themselves! now when you add that factor i think i might rather have a knock off than a chinese oem stihl.


----------



## Boomer 87

And they still come with a german price tag.... so really your getting a kia at Volkswagen price


----------



## Boogedy_Man

I def agree with the above that there is moral high ground in the anti-clone sentiments. I am 100% against selling copies...especially those sellers that fully intend to deceive.

I do think there's more than a minor difference with a kit saw. I don't think it's all money... I've obviously never bought one, but I would never see a kit as saving me X amount of dollars over the real McCoy. I'd only build what wouldn't otherwise plan on buying.

I'm actually rather disappointed that Huztl made a full-on ready to go copy. They should stick with kits full of cheap parts as far as I am concerned. It makes buying a kit a little harder for me.


----------



## Bedford T

I had a festiva made by kia and got over 500,000 miles on it. It was a tin can but it would run.


----------



## Boomer 87

I had a geo metro i bought from my dad, could not kill that thing lol


----------



## Boogedy_Man

Boomer 87 said:


> And they still come with a german price tag.... so really your getting a kia at Volkswagen price



Are there Stihls that are 100% overseas?

I went and checked all my equipment...expecting that the cheaper stuff may be China.

661 - Germany
461 - Germany
170 - US with global parts
BR600 - US with global parts
FC56 - US with global parts
BG56 -US with global parts

I'm very happy with the 661, 461 and BR600, though I kind of hoped the BR600 was German. The 170 I bought for carving and it seems fine too...especially with what they cost.

The FC56 and BG56 are cheap. No better than any brand from the big box store...I knew that buying them, however. The FC56 works fine for what I use it for...one driveway. I just feel it's a bit too pricey for what it is. I would have preferred to spend more and let the guy talk me into it - "it's all you'll ever need". The BG56 wasn't expensive, I don't think, and is handy to have around for cleanup when milling.


----------



## Boomer 87

Ms 251 i think


----------



## andrethegiant70

Boogedy_Man said:


> I def agree with the above that there is moral high ground in the anti-clone sentiments. I am 100% against selling copies...especially those sellers that fully intend to deceive.
> 
> I do think there's more than a minor difference with a kit saw. I don't think it's all money... I've obviously never bought one, but I would never see a kit as saving me X amount of dollars over the real McCoy. I'd only build what wouldn't otherwise plan on buying.
> 
> I'm actually rather disappointed that Huztl made a full-on ready to go copy. They should stick with kits full of cheap parts as far as I am concerned. It makes buying a kit a little harder for me.



I have to agree with that, if they're going to stamp them like that (which is really pushing it), I'd rather see them just sell kits. It may still be an attempted facsimile, but it would arguably be a "kit" not a saw. I'd be proud to own a saw that I built from a kit... I would not be so proud to own a blatant copy. Maybe it's a subtle difference for some... not me.


----------



## Boogedy_Man

Boomer 87 said:


> Ms 251 i think



Good to know. I'll be certain to be looking at COOs on any new saws... About the only think I want right now is a new 362.


----------



## Bedford T

I was shocked when I saw that little complete saw. I looked it up and it is not from Around here so I settled down and went on with life then bam the big orange complete saw and I kinda got a knot in stomach. 

I saw these kits for sale in Europe last year and contacted them and literally begged to buy them. I thought it was so cool. Kit saws. Finally they did and we emailed about it later.

They said the complete saws were trouble. I certainly agreed. 

Then big orange. I can't help but wonder if the news of the death of the EPA did not play into it. I feel certain they will get your message. For me the little saw from far away did not bother me but I was not interested because I am a kit guy. Selling complete saws will make it harder for Americans to accept the Chinese saw. We are so conflicted about losing our jobs as we should be. But the kits were their idea and an excellent one. 

The what kit would you like thread shows people get it. Olders saws. Once in a while some one will show a green one built. I really think building them and talking about them Is just Ok and cool


----------



## Boomer 87

I cant be for 100% sure but i think someone had posted a pic of the bar code sticker tag says made in china. But i bought a ms271 brand new and it says made in USA, i know bc i saw that post and immediately went out and looked at mine to see if it were chinese


----------



## fwgsaw

Boomer 87 said:


> Heres another angle, how bout the legit oem stihls being made in china themselves! now when you add that factor i think i might rather have a knock off than a chinese oem stihl.


It's not the being made it china that bothers me it's the fact that someone is making money off of the stihl brand name and reputation. How many of these saws would really sell if they were not copies of a popular saw?


----------



## Boomer 87

Im not gonna bash anyone for buying a complete or parts kit saw, i understand if a guy is trying to make a extra income and cant drop big coin, you gotta do what you have to. use it as a stepping stone like towards something nicer, thats kinda the whole point. 

Im just starting with milling, i saved up and worked like a dog to buy a granberg mill and a brand new echo cs800p to power it. If all goes well selling some slabs local id like to get into a bigger powerhead bc i know the echo's limitations. But theres no way i could drop 2 grand on a 880 or 3120.

Gotta do what you can. If all you can is one of them then by all means. Im gonna trudge on with the echo for awhile


----------



## Bedford T

I disagree with the points you are making. These saws don't say Stihl and the reputation comes from the color. I would be fine with blue. I think you would be accurate in saying copying their designs more than name and reputation. There are a ton of saws that do meet your definition excatly they even put fake serial numbers on them. But that's not true here. We are not buying or building stuff from those folks


----------



## fwgsaw

Bedford T said:


> I disagree with the points you are making. These saws don't say Stihl and the reputation comes from the color. I would be fine with blue. I think you would be accurate in saying copying their designs more than name and reputation. There are a ton of saws that do meet your definition excatly they even put fake serial numbers on them. But that's not true here. We are not buying or building stuff from those folks


So why do you call it a 090 and 070 then? Maybe they don't say Stihl on them but there still making money off of someone else's design, name, color whatever you want to call it.


----------



## Robin Wood

if you guys looking to use an imitation saw for milling, its a big mistake i can tell
you that right now. theres grade "A" copy in my country and people hardly use them. the only people that will even consider is firewood guys

like someone said you'll be replacing parts so often the cost will outrun money wise invested in oem, not to mention downtimes. preco makes the closest to oem quality apparently. the rest are hit and miss

i really can go into detail with bad copies but the main issues are fittings "tolerances". look at the copies clutch cover meeting oil tank area pic shared somewhere in the beginning. parts that crap out under heat and it rattles out in first couple minutes

trust me you dont want to get the wrong copy, its waste of time and money


----------



## Boomer 87

Wasnt there an issue some time back about 070 copy that was so close you couldn't tell, i mean it was labeled stihl and sold as stihl but was a fake, not a clone


----------



## andrethegiant70

Boomer 87 said:


> Wasnt there an issue some time back about 070 copy that was so close you couldn't tell, i mean it was labeled stihl and sold as stihl but was a fake, not a clone



For sure, I've seen at least one full-blown copy around for a number of years, not that I know anything about it.

Regarding the efficacy of milling with such a beast, I'm getting the feeling that folks are keen on it, many with the caveat that some parts (presumably the moving ones!) will need to be replaced with higher quality components. I can see this approach making a bit of sense. I CERTAINLY can't justify $1,000 - $2000 for the occasional milling stint. But all this does mean that there will still be a need for the high-quality stuff.


----------



## blsnelling

Boomer 87 said:


> Does 070 have same bar pad as a 044 056 066?





Bedford T said:


> I was looking at bars last night and I think so. Stihl made a special bar for the 090 but not sure what's different is never got that far in my research. I will post it in a minute



No. The 3002 bar mount is entirely different than the 3003 used on smaller saws.


----------



## Boomer 87

I wondered if it were different


----------



## blsnelling

The only current production saw with the 3002 mount is the MS880.


----------



## Boomer 87

Can a 3002 bar be obtained 3/8 pitch or are they all .404


----------



## Mac&Homelite

Boomer 87 said:


> Heres another angle, how bout the legit oem stihls being made in china themselves! now when you add that factor i think i might rather have a knock off than a chinese oem stihl.


Yep, when I was in the dealer last time a month or so ago, the 251s were of china origin, pretty sure the 171 & 181 were the same also. Another interesting thing I noticed while building my ms361 was some machining marks on the carb. It was right where the zama (or whoever makes them) logo would have been on one of the covers. Quite interesting, I though, that they would add an extra step to the process to set it up in a mill and remove the logo.


----------



## davhul

bulletpruf said:


> Ask and you shall receive..



Nice that should help you out. I've got that manual also. It has 92 pages I believe.


----------



## Honda_man

Interesting discussion that definitely has me riding the fence. Bottom line, companies like Huztl are clearly riding on the coat tail of STIHL. They are selling these as STIHL parts kits, knowing good and well folks are assembling them and thinking they have a cheaper version of STIHL quality and technology. Sure, most everyone knows they are not OEM, but are just happy to have that model saw for a song rather than for the first two children and half the third one (especially the larger saws). Truth is, they are making money off the technology, research, and development of STIHL. 

But, that's the way it goes. There are so many aftermarket companies out there, all making "will fit" parts that are actually using the intellectual property of the OEM, and not their own. Design, materials, everything. Even names such Oregon and hiway and sugihara. Right or wrong, therefore, they are very popular. 

We use aftermarket stuff in every area of our life, from cheap house hold (Wal-Mart branded, etc.) are all aftermarket, cheapo copies. The question is, just how far are we going. To be fair, Oregon, Carlton, and every other such brand is living off.

Like I said, I'm torn. Where do you start? Where do you stop? I use a good but of parts from aftermarket brands but this has me thinking. If I rebuild a saw with aftermarket parts, does the buyer think the parts are OEM? Am I (unintentionally) receiving them? There has to be a line in the sand. But where?


----------



## foeke

Who cares where something is made. As long as it is made according to the right specs. Chinese are just as capable to make a decent machine as anybody else. It's just that quality products aren't produced in the same quantity are crappy stuff. And as long as you aren't making bulk products it doesn't make as much sense to outsource it to China. If toyota brings their QC guys to their chinese car plant, I'm sure the result will be the same. 
Now in this case. Some manufacturers make cheap copies of stone age technology. Just like those VW beatles that where made in Mexico untill recently. No one will think the it is even comparable. They are made from glossy plastics. They have funny sounding brand names. Not even close to the original. Does Stihl care? I don't think so. For them it is just a sprinkle of free extra attention. Oh you started milling with a 100+ lead plated nylon chainsaw? And it was ruined in a week? You might concider the 880 wich is actually the right tool for the job. In the mean time, some guys didn't go drink and drive. Didn't go light a homeless guy on fire. Because they were trying to fit a huge cylinder wich isn't exactly the correct size to a chassis wich also isn't a made using quality machining. But oh my. When it does run for a couple of days, will be all worth all the missed out fun you could have had the past couple of months.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


----------



## fwgsaw

foeke said:


> Who cares where something is made. As long as it is made according to the right specs. Chinese are just as capable to make a decent machine as anybody else. It's just that quality products aren't produced in the same quantity are crappy stuff. And as long as you aren't making bulk products it doesn't make as much sense to outsource it to China. If toyota brings their QC guys to their chinese car plant, I'm sure the result will be the same.
> Now in this case. Some manufacturers make cheap copies of stone age technology. Just like those VW beatles that where made in Mexico untill recently. No one will think the it is even comparable. They are made from glossy plastics. They have funny sounding brand names. Not even close to the original. Does Stihl care? I don't think so. For them it is just a sprinkle of free extra attention. Oh you started milling with a 100+ lead plated nylon chainsaw? And it was ruined in a week? You might concider the 880 wich is actually the right tool for the job. In the mean time, some guys didn't go drink and drive. Didn't go light a homeless guy on fire. Because they were trying to fit a huge cylinder wich isn't exactly the correct size to a chassis wich also isn't a made using quality machining. But oh my. When it does run for a couple of days, will be all worth all the missed out fun you could have had the past couple of months.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


Actually yes Stihl does care. If you do some research on this you will find that they are doing a few things about it.


----------



## Robin Wood

Boomer 87 said:


> Wasnt there an issue some time back about 070 copy that was so close you couldn't tell, i mean it was labeled stihl and sold as stihl but was a fake, not a clone



you are right, they did come up with an exact copy that had the same decals and stuffs. it became an issue which pushed stihl to open a plant in china, that was the reason stihl opening plant in china. i was told you cant sue them from this side of the world unless you have a plant there and register your patent to stop 3rd parties from copying.

and that was when stihl came out with ms720 to counter the counterfeit, while it might be just a business gimmick. they manage to get the 3rd worlds trust back in their product.


----------



## Robin Wood

Boomer 87 said:


> Can a 3002 bar be obtained 3/8 pitch or are they all .404



if im not mistaken 3002 comes exlusively in 0.063 gauge. i think you got yourself confused with pitch and gauge, 3/8 and .404 comes in few other mount pattern. it could be 0.063 3/8, 0.063 .404 and so on


----------



## foeke

Robin Wood said:


> you are right, they did come up with an exact copy that had the same decals.



Those exact copies I've also seen on the Dutch Craiglist (marktplaats). That's a totally different story. Selling outright dangerous (so far, that's my experience with those cheap and cheersfull machines) hardware wich a novice use can't distinguish from the real deal. That should be considered a crime.





Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


----------



## Boomer 87

With all the industry being built in china everyday, your absolutely right the chinese can make high quality parts and equipment. That being said do you really think there going to make the very best as an export to send to the U.S. or other countries?

There making some good stuff over there, we just arent seeing it here, bc there keeping the good stuff to themselves.


----------



## Boomer 87

Robin Wood said:


> if im not mistaken 3002 comes exlusively in 0.063 gauge. i think you got yourself confused with pitch and gauge, 3/8 and .404 comes in few other mount pattern. it could be 0.063 3/8, 0.063 .404 and so on



I figured they would all be .063 gauge only, but if there sprocket tipped bars, they could be 3/8 or .404 pitch. Unless there exclusively hardnose bars.


----------



## Robin Wood

Boomer 87 said:


> I figured they would all be .063 gauge only, but if there sprocket tipped bars, they could be 3/8 or .404 pitch. Unless there exclusively hardnose bars.



totally forgot you guys dig the sprocket nose, we only use hardnose here
it would matter in that case


----------



## foeke

Boomer 87 said:


> With all the industry being built in china everyday, your absolutely right the chinese can make high quality parts and equipment. That being said do you really think there going to make the very best as an export to send to the U.S. or other countries?
> 
> There making some good stuff over there, we just arent seeing it here, bc there keeping the good stuff to themselves.


That's what they thought about japan in the 60's. They also started of with cheaply made copies and quantity over quality. Now they are the world leaders in precision engineering. 
But anyway. Let's not distact OP with politics while he is building/contemplating his 137cc Harley Davidson milling machine.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


----------



## blsnelling

I simply don't care for a counterfeit product, regardless of what it is. That's exactly what these are.


----------



## Derf

fwgsaw said:


> So I'm guessing you have a business and use tools to make a living? I use all kinds of tools to make a living and Chinese knockoffs of anything I depend on day in day out would be a really big financial mistake. But that's just me.



I'm a machinist, so yes I use tools to make a living. But the people who want this knock-off saw aren't loggers or felling 6' trees for a living; they are avg Joes with limited funds who want to do a little milling here or there or add to their saw collection. Anyone who does full-time milling would pretty quickly realize they want a band saw anyway, regardless of the quality of the chainsaw. 
They are tinkerers, hobbyists, they enjoy building, obviously, because these saws come as kits. If I had to build my own lathe just to machine a part every few weeks for fun I wouldn't be able to make a living. So don't confuse the target audience here.


----------



## fwgsaw

Derf said:


> I'm a machinist, so yes I use tools to make a living. But the people who want this knock-off saw aren't loggers or felling 6' trees for a living; they are avg Joes with limited funds who want to do a little milling here or there or add to their saw collection. Anyone who does full-time milling would pretty quickly realize they want a band saw anyway, regardless of the quality of the chainsaw.
> They are tinkerers, hobbyists, they enjoy building, obviously, because these saws come as kits. If I had to build my own lathe just to machine a part every few weeks for fun I wouldn't be able to make a living. So don't confuse the target audience here.


Guess my point is whether there full time professional or a hobiest it doesn't much matter, buying a cheap reproduction to get a job done will cost them in the end. Reliability and resale are the 2 big ones that come to mind for me. I bought my first 090 back in 2006 and have used it on big jobs with no mechanical problems so far and it's worth more then I paid for it after 10 years. My opinion it's worth saving some coin to buy a better investment.


----------



## bulletpruf

blsnelling said:


> I simply don't care for a counterfeit product, regardless of what it is. That's exactly what these are.



Got to agree with Brad. It's the dishonesty that bothers me -- the company is cashing in on Stihl's name, reputation, engineering, and product development. It's one thing to reverse engineer a product and then try to improve it, but an exact copy of another company's product is why we have copyright laws.

Having said that, I can understand why they are appealing to some folks -- they are a fraction of the price of a new MS270, and that's if you can find someone to ship you one from Asia or South America. So while I won't be signing up for my own, I won't necessarily condemn those who do.


----------



## olyman

Robin Wood said:


> if you guys looking to use an imitation saw for milling, its a big mistake i can tell
> you that right now. theres grade "A" copy in my country and people hardly use them. the only people that will even consider is firewood guys
> 
> like someone said you'll be replacing parts so often the cost will outrun money wise invested in oem, not to mention downtimes. preco makes the closest to oem quality apparently. the rest are hit and miss
> 
> i really can go into detail with bad copies but the main issues are fittings "tolerances". look at the copies clutch cover meeting oil tank area pic shared somewhere in the beginning. parts that crap out under heat and it rattles out in first couple minutes
> 
> trust me you dont want to get the wrong copy, its waste of time and money


so why don't uuu tell us all, what are the good copies......since theres are a few on here, who consider themselves to be "experts" in anything.........


----------



## olyman

Honda_man said:


> Interesting discussion that definitely has me riding the fence. Bottom line, companies like Huztl are clearly riding on the coat tail of STIHL. They are selling these as STIHL parts kits, knowing good and well folks are assembling them and thinking they have a cheaper version of STIHL quality and technology. Sure, most everyone knows they are not OEM, but are just happy to have that model saw for a song rather than for the first two children and half the third one (especially the larger saws). Truth is, they are making money off the technology, research, and development of STIHL.
> 
> But, that's the way it goes. There are so many aftermarket companies out there, all making "will fit" parts that are actually using the intellectual property of the OEM, and not their own. Design, materials, everything. Even names such Oregon and hiway and sugihara. Right or wrong, therefore, they are very popular.
> 
> We use aftermarket stuff in every area of our life, from cheap house hold (Wal-Mart branded, etc.) are all aftermarket, cheapo copies. The question is, just how far are we going. To be fair, Oregon, Carlton, and every other such brand is living off.
> 
> Like I said, I'm torn. Where do you start? Where do you stop? I use a good but of parts from aftermarket brands but this has me thinking. If I rebuild a saw with aftermarket parts, does the buyer think the parts are OEM? Am I (unintentionally) receiving them? There has to be a line in the sand. But where?


heres something to think about......can you walk into the steal dealer,,and buy a new 070??? hmmm???? how about a 090????? answered.....


----------



## Boomer 87

I can play devils advocate on the saws. I can see someone buying a clone over oem, bc lets face it are the oem saws really worth what they charge? Take stihls 880, is the sum of all its parts worth the 2 grand price tag? I really think not. 

But is it worth buying a clone kit and maybe having it grenade on the mill? That's up to the buyer. One things for sure if it does grenade, you still have money left for like 5 more lol.


----------



## olyman

foeke said:


> Who cares where something is made. As long as it is made according to the right specs. Chinese are just as capable to make a decent machine as anybody else. It's just that quality products aren't produced in the same quantity are crappy stuff. And as long as you aren't making bulk products it doesn't make as much sense to outsource it to China. If toyota brings their QC guys to their chinese car plant, I'm sure the result will be the same.
> Now in this case. Some manufacturers make cheap copies of stone age technology. Just like those VW beatles that where made in Mexico untill recently. No one will think the it is even comparable. They are made from glossy plastics. They have funny sounding brand names. Not even close to the original. Does Stihl care? I don't think so. For them it is just a sprinkle of free extra attention. Oh you started milling with a 100+ lead plated nylon chainsaw? And it was ruined in a week? You might concider the 880 wich is actually the right tool for the job. In the mean time, some guys didn't go drink and drive. Didn't go light a homeless guy on fire. Because they were trying to fit a huge cylinder wich isn't exactly the correct size to a chassis wich also isn't a made using quality machining. But oh my. When it does run for a couple of days, will be all worth all the missed out fun you could have had the past couple of months.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


well. first you say the Chinese are capable..which they are,,then you bash them..interesting...tell me about he quality of aftermarket scat cranks..in race cars.......


----------



## Big_Wood

i don't care that they are copies of stihl to be honest as stihl is pretty well done with those designs. what i don't like is some floating the farmertec boat so hard like it's the real thing. coming from guys who own a farmertec saw and most have never owned the real saw from stihl. guys who assembled a couple farmertec saws and now call themselves builders!! lol if they were copying current models then i think that would be a huge rip off to husky and stihl. their 365 kit is borderline IMO because of the fact husky still make a saw on that case. that's me being nice though, fact is that AM parts supplier is alot different then counterfeit saws supplier lol. imagine if we had whole GM, Ford, dodge etc...... counterfeit vehicles coming here from china, the stink that would raise wholey **** let me tell you! lol


----------



## Boomer 87

Im actually really anxious to see someone here build one, i want to know how it pulls on about a 56" mill goin through about 52" worth of hard oak.


----------



## Boomer 87

How exactly do they get by with cloning them anyway? Because it doesn't say STIHL anywhere on it technically its not illegal? Even though clearly is a clone of one?


----------



## Mac&Homelite

Here's another thought that China manufactured parts could potentially lower the price of the real oem parts in the future due to the increased competition. No, not all parts are the equivalent of oem, I've found out. But for things like plastics, I cannot justify the huge price difference for such a insignificant part. I think the competition is good for everyone. What, aren't most of the carbs made over in China now anyway with the zama aquisition.
Their saws work for me because of the price and what I use them for. In my lawn care, I run genuine stihl products, but saws are a hobby for me yet. If I were to use it all day every day, sure, I'd go for the oem, but I just can't justify the cost of the oem right now. They allow me to test and modify the saw cheaply and easily. So what if I grenade a piston, only $30 for a new one. Well worth the experience in my book. Much cheaper and easier to experiment than alternatives.


----------



## fwgsaw

olyman said:


> heres something to think about......can you walk into the steal dealer,,and buy a new 070??? hmmm???? how about a 090????? answered.....


Actually yes you can in certain countries.


----------



## fwgsaw

The ironic part is stihl hasn't been able to sell the 070 090 in the us since like 1985 due to emissions and lack of a chain brake. So what's actually happening with the Chinese knockoffs is a loophole in foreign trade somehow. So Stihl can't sell the saw they designed and currently build today but huztl can make a copy of it and it's OK.


----------



## fwgsaw

olyman said:


> so why don't uuu tell us all, what are the good copies......since theres are a few on here, who consider themselves to be "experts" in anything.........


I would say Robin probably knows a thing or two more then most about 070s and 090s since he's from a country that can still buy them. Course why buy a ms720 when you can get a cs-1201 but that's just my opinion.


----------



## Robin Wood

olyman said:


> so why don't uuu tell us all, what are the good copies......since theres are a few on here, who consider themselves to be "experts" in anything.........



i mentioned the name of the company that makes probably the best copy
in my opinion and the others i know who agrees with me
read my post you quoted properly


----------



## fwgsaw

blsnelling said:


> Are you on Huztl payroll?


It's funny you mention that since the op had a thread about a year ago talking about how he was planning to sell these kits.


----------



## foeke

olyman said:


> well. first you say the Chinese are capable..which they are,,then you bash them..interesting...tell me about he quality of aftermarket scat cranks..in race cars.......


Didn't mean to bash them. It's all economics. I have a 150 euro auger. I was used to a stihl one ( at least 300 euro second hand 900 new). Didn't think it would be that big a difference, maybe lack of power or something. Good thing, it doesn't lack the power. Bad thing is the transfer isn't correct. The thing spins to fast. Combine that with no safety break and a hudge flywheel, and you get a machine that is as nice as a mean donkey. When it gets stuck, it will break your knees. Same thing with the cheap sds drill from a friend. Way to powerfull for the lack of safety. Just to name a few. Yes they are made in china, but the reason they are this dangerous is because it is cheap not because were it is made. On average the cost to make it, is about 10% of the retail price. So for that auger, you get all that iron, all those fittings etc etc and it costed 15 euro to get it out of the factory. Amazing.
So stihl shouldn't be worried. They should worry as soon as someone looked at the design of the 661 and thought, I can do better than that.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


----------



## Boomer 87

I was on huztls site and saw the 070 in question. What is the day countdown on thier site is that for the 10 % off, then it goes back up in price?


----------



## TimTaylor

Yes.it's on sale till the timer runs out. They change the sales regularly. In my dealings with them they have been honest , friendly, and reliable. Sure the kit I ordered wasn't all there but they sent the missing bits out very fast.( I live in New Zealand and all overseas postage seems to take forever except for America which I'm sorry to say won't normally send to us at all) I don't work for them, I just collect old interesting engine stuff, and the way I see it is that they are making copies of stuff that Stihl don't make anymore and that we don't want to use everyday or to earn a living with anyway, it's just for fun and that rates highly to me no matter who builds it.

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## TimTaylor

Wouldn't be many people that earn a living with a chainsaw that will risk using other than a Husqvana ,Stihl, Dolmar, Echo or Shindawa . I like puzzles and I like big old chainsaws. For me an 070/090 kit is like being a kid again. I'm keen.

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## Boomer 87

Kinda like i would love to have a Single Action Army Colt revolver in .45 colt, but that will never happen, but a may be able to swing a Traditions or Heritage clone of one, id still be happy


----------



## TimTaylor

Boomer 87 said:


> Kinda like i would love to have a Single Action Army Colt revolver in .45 colt, but that will never happen, but a may be able to swing a Traditions or Heritage clone of one, id still be happy


That is it exactly.

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## jd548esco72

i use a 276T and a detroit V6 on my mills


----------



## Boomer 87

Love me a rocky mountain hummingbird!


----------



## Bedford T

We needed a model to build this by  and the manual should be posted soon. So both crutches will be in place. Until then guys have a look at this monster. I found myself saying it was big over and over. If I would have had a bar and chain you would also see a cutting video. But that clock was ticking and the math said do this now and then spend on the bar and chains. Man is it HUGE. I hope you all have a nice Easter


----------



## Boomer 87

Actually looks like a pretty decent build quality. Carburetor is a tillotson HL style it appears to me. 

Is that a parts kit saw or did you get it pre assembled?

Also does it have auto oiler with override or just manual only. If you said in the video i didnt catch it.

Looks like a milling powerhouse, see what you did, now i think i need one LOL


----------



## bulletpruf

Bedford T said:


> I was pouring over manuals i have to see what was needed and the 070/090 manual that is out on the internet is missing quite a bit, it looks like someone whittled it down for the 90G with the transmission mainly. There is enough that is different that just using an ipl might cause mistakes. will you guys look and see if you got a complete manual?



Ok, I have the service manual, but am only able to upload one file of three. Others are too large, I think. The limit here must be 10 mb.

Scott


----------



## fwgsaw

I fool and there money are soon parted. 10 years from now you guys will understand but until then oh well.


----------



## blsnelling

Yes, they're big.


----------



## fwgsaw

blsnelling said:


> Yes, they're big.




they are big but my old Mercury says naw you ain't so big! Course cutting something is a whole different story.


----------



## Robin Wood

blsnelling said:


> Yes, they're big.




that exhaust deflector is one of a kind
were they offered as an optional at some point of time during their heyday ?


----------



## fwgsaw

Robin Wood said:


> that exhaust deflector is one of a kind
> were they offered as an optional at some point of time during their heyday ?


I have one just like that on my mid 80s 090.


----------



## blsnelling

Robin Wood said:


> that exhaust deflector is one of a kind
> were they offered as an optional at some point of time during their heyday ?


I don't know. This saw is all original, including the B&C.


----------



## fwgsaw

then there's the jungle muffler or least that's what I call it.


----------



## blsnelling

Now THOSE are dawgs!!!


----------



## bulletpruf

Robin Wood said:


> that exhaust deflector is one of a kind
> were they offered as an optional at some point of time during their heyday ?



Yep.


----------



## fwgsaw

same as Brad's. Yes I know the top spike bolt is missing. This saw is soon headed down under.


----------



## emanaresi

If they come through with a kit at a great price, I will buy one. I really enjoyed building my 660 kit and it is a pretty good running big saw.


----------



## bulletpruf

Give this a try for the 1106 manual -- not sure how long this will be up, so download now if you need it https://filetea.me/n3wWE64t8xCRrqHucOK7HBiKw


----------



## DND 9000

Sorry but your link is not working.


----------



## Big_Wood

fwgsaw said:


> View attachment 572955
> same as Brad's. Yes I know the top spike bolt is missing. This saw is soon headed down under.



your bar is cracked


----------



## fwgsaw

westcoaster90 said:


> your bar is cracked


Better look closer


----------



## Bedford T

bulletpruf said:


> Give this a try for the 1106 manual -- not sure how long this will be up, so download now if you need it https://filetea.me/n3wWE64t8xCRrqHucOK7HBiKw


not sure sure why, it did work. try it again with this. it doubt it last more than a few hours and share it among yourselves. 
https://filetea.me/n3wvHwxi8i3TUCZPqXgmWPoyQ

Here is the saw running for a few minutes. The oiler works great. You can put a long bar on this and keep it damp. Sounds great too. I pulled on it 3 times with it off to start the fuel and about 7 times on got it running. the saw is not as hard to start as some 660's i have pulled. i got get a big bar for this, it deserves it.


----------



## fwgsaw

Bedford T said:


> not sure sure why, it did work. try it again with this. it doubt it last more than a few hours and share it among yourselves.
> https://filetea.me/n3wvHwxi8i3TUCZPqXgmWPoyQ
> 
> Here is the saw running for a few minutes. The oiler works great. You can put a long bar on this and keep it damp. Sounds great too. I pulled on it 3 times with it off to start the fuel and about 7 times on got it running. the saw is not as hard to start as some 660's i have pulled. i got get a big bar for this, it deserves it.



Oh man I bet your so excited with that massive saw. Once you get that big girl a huge slap stick she will just thump.


----------



## fwgsaw

Personally I think a 60 inch bar is about where a 090 starts to shine.


----------



## Big_Wood

Bedford T said:


> not sure sure why, it did work. try it again with this. it doubt it last more than a few hours and share it among yourselves.
> https://filetea.me/n3wvHwxi8i3TUCZPqXgmWPoyQ
> 
> Here is the saw running for a few minutes. The oiler works great. You can put a long bar on this and keep it damp. Sounds great too. I pulled on it 3 times with it off to start the fuel and about 7 times on got it running. the saw is not as hard to start as some 660's i have pulled. i got get a big bar for this, it deserves it.




bet you got carpal tunnel revving it up like that lol i wonder what the indonesians would think about this rig? if it works as good they probably wouldn't give a ****.


----------



## Boomer 87

So i was lurking around huztls website just to see what it was about. It appears the 070 is available only as a assembled unit? Is that what the one pictured and running was. Or was the parts kit gotten elsewhere?


----------



## Bedford T

That is the one on the Huztl website in this thread and running in the video.


----------



## GrassGuerilla

Interesting thread. Part of me hates to see the chi com's knocking off such a machine. I'm not so sure about the practicality of milling with such a knockoff. That'll sure test the build quality. I will say that 100cc saw for the occasional giant tree felling and bucking at $350-400 plus bar and chain sure fills a niche.


----------



## Bedford T

The manual should be available in the beg thread now. There is a complete one and one broken into 3 parts not sure which they will serve up but they all are complete. Maintaining one of these bad boys will require one.


----------



## Boomer 87

How long did it take to ship that 070?


----------



## Bedford T

9 days is wrong

boomer i went back and counted it was 7 full days till it was on my door step


----------



## s sidewall

Boomer 87 said:


> Kinda like i would love to have a Single Action Army Colt revolver in .45 colt, but that will never happen, but a may be able to swing a Traditions or Heritage clone of one, id still be happy


I have a Centennial Arms 1860/1960 Belgian made Colt Army that i love to shoot, can't beat the smell of black powder.

Steve


----------



## Boomer 87

So as of right now you only can get the complete 070? 

Will they ever offer the 070 as a assemble your own saw kit?


----------



## Bedford T

It was my understanding that in May of this year a 070 kit will be sold.

It's gonna be a tuff one. Tuffs good right?

They have not showed what shipping is gonna be. I estimated 130$ for either one complete or built same weight. It's heavy.

That little governor is new to us. Bringing the tune to where it should be the first time will be different than say a 660. I wossied out.


----------



## Boomer 87

Probly going to have to start real heavy on hi side then while your cutting start to lean it until it clears up


----------



## TimTaylor

Was a brake ever an option on an 070? It would be great to keep the safety police happy. Otherwise it's a mill motor here in NZ or just a wall ornament. Or for private use on private property I guess.

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

I have seen brake handles on them. Know nothing further.


----------



## Boomer 87

How long of a bar do you guys think the 070 will be able to pull? For milling anyway.


----------



## blsnelling

Bedford T said:


> That little governor is new to us. Bringing the tune to where it should be the first time will be different than say a 660. I wossied out.


It's simple enough to override. You can then tune it as a normal saw. Once tuned, you can re-enable the governor. BTW, they run much better without the governor.


----------



## Big_Wood

Bedford T said:


> It was my understanding that in May of this year a 070 kit will be sold.
> 
> It's gonna be a tuff one. Tuffs good right?
> 
> They have not showed what shipping is gonna be. I estimated 130$ for either one complete or built same weight. It's heavy.
> 
> That little governor is new to us. Bringing the tune to where it should be the first time will be different than say a 660. I wossied out.



if you can assemble the 3 in your sig you can assemble an 070. kinda like east and west timber falling. coming from pecker poles to big tall wood will intimidate the pecker pole loggers lol BUT after getting rebroken in that intimidation goes away. same with the 070 to smaller saws. yer head is playing games with you and confusing physically larger with being a harder job to tackle. thankfully, that saw will remain stationary as you work on it. the pecker pole loggers doing a transistion to big wood ain't so lucky lol.


----------



## GrizG

Interestingly enough this saw, or one very much like it, was floating around about 7 years ago... It had Stihl 070 labels on it and the comments on the video debate whether it's a real Stihl or a copy and how good it is (sound familiar?). What's today's interpretation of that video?


----------



## Ozhoo

I've got 14 amerigrigo pesos that says these farmertech cylinders hold up to about 2 cuts when milling. Running 16:1 with the governor in place you may get 3.


----------



## Bedford T

That is a stihl, likely from UK


----------



## blsnelling

Bedford T said:


> That is a stihl, likely from UK


Where does this info come from?


----------



## Imprzed205

Look out your left window. I'm the crackhead looking over the privacy fence scoping your saws out


----------



## blsnelling

Imprzed205 said:


> Look out your left window. I'm the crackhead looking over the privacy fence scoping your saws out


You don't want to do that. I have both


----------



## TreeJoe

Looks like someone is over compensating.


----------



## Boomer 87

The lock on my door is for your protection not mine


----------



## Boomer 87

So anyone think the 070 will pull a 60" bar?


----------



## Bedford T

The manual shows as high as 35" and the 090 goes up to 59". But if people are running huge bars on a 660 this should be well above 35"


----------



## blsnelling

Boomer 87 said:


> So anyone think the 070 will pull a 60" bar?


I'd say no, at least not effectively at all.


----------



## Boomer 87

Maybe 48?


----------



## TimTaylor

Only scientific way to tell(apart from trying it) would be to dyno a selection of them and see what they output and how consistent they are. I bet with fetling to clean up the ports and optimise the squish good results could be had. If someone is prepared to baby a motor on a mill almost any motor will last quite a while, whereas there are people who can destroy any make and model in short order. 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

Boomer 87 said:


> Maybe 48?



i set out to find an answer on the net and could not. but i will share some information that will help us.

For milling a saw engine with a long piston
stroke that works in the 6,000 RPM range, with
a chain speed of around 3,000 feet per minute.
(A long piston stroke is simply one that is
equal to or longer than the diameter of the piston.) is preferred.
The 090g is the best. we can convert to a 090

Because ripping requires continuous power, I
run my *engine at a richer setting on the high speed
jet than recommended by the manufacturer.*
In crosscutting, this would cause heavy
carbon deposits on the spark plug and exhaust
ports; in ripping,* the extra fuel that
passes through the engine gives additional lubrication
and prolongs engine life.*

After the first few hours of operating a new
engine, I torque down the head bolts to compensate
for the shrinkage of the cylinder
gaskets. Heads and cylinders are usually a
one-piece unit. If you have a two-piece unit,
torque both the head and the cylinder. Also
torque the carburetor-mounting gasket and
muffler gasket along with any loose nuts,
bolts or screws. After one or two torques,
most saws usually need no further torquing,
but inspect yours periodically.

milling puts heavy stress on a
saw engine, so for extra lubrication I 'use a
lower ratio of gas to oil than is recommended
by the saw manufacturer.

Occasionally, when a saw is mounted for milling,
the fuel filter inside the gas tank will become
dislodged in an upright position. This
causes the engine to falter when you pull the
throttle trigger and makes the engine sound
as if it's not getting enough fuel. To check for
this, wipe any sawdust or debris away from
the fuel tank cap and remove it. Then drain the
tank and inspect it to see if the filter is positioned
properly. If the filter is dislodged, hold
the saw upright and let the filter drop to the
bottom of the tank before refueling.
I am going to look at adding a second filter
in the tank like the br600 but i need to see if that would help.

An engine sawdust guard does several jobs.
It holds the guide plate that controls chain entry
into the bar and it is also the clamping
bracket for the bar. In normal crosscutting,
the guard allows sawdust to be directed away
from the saw through a bottom opening.
However, when the saw is inverted in the milling
position, the opening doesn't allow the sawdust
to escape properly, which causes a sawdust
buildup between the centrifugal clutch
and the guard. This often leads to internal
clutch problems and heavy clutch-shoe wear.
An easy modification eliminates this problem.
Simply cut away the sawdust-shielding
portion of the unit and use the guide plate
and clamping bracket as you normally would.
This exposes additional moving parts, but
because the saw is inverted during milling,
the advantages make it worthwhile to me.
With this modification, you also won't have to
remove the bar from the engine to mount or
remove the chain. So a second side plate that we cut away
would save the saw for other uses sinve the clutch is exposed.

the most efficient mills are 48 in. and under. The thrust skid of the Mark III
Alaskan Mill has a built-in design problem. It
often loses contact with the log, which
causes the riser post to touch the side of the
log, and quite often, to get hung up. The heavy
vibration and stress exerted on the riser
posts, guide rails and mill handle can also result
in parts breaking or bending, or in misalignment
of the mill.


----------



## bulletpruf

TimTaylor said:


> Only scientific way to tell(apart from trying it) would be to dyno a selection of them and see what they output and how consistent they are. I bet with fetling to clean up the ports and optimise the squish good results could be had. If someone is prepared to baby a motor on a mill almost any motor will last quite a while, whereas there are people who can destroy any make and model in short order.
> 
> Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk



I'm about to try to optimize a few 106 cc Contra's. Same size as the 070, but not identical - spark plug configuration and carburetor are different. I'm thinking some basic porting/cleanup, gasket delete, and a muffler mod and it will wake up a bit.

Scott


----------



## Boomer 87

So have you been cutting with the new toy yet?


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Boomer 87 said:


> So anyone think the 070 will pull a 60" bar?



There are many saws that will pull a 60'' bar easy. However the operator should be a little experienced to do so. I have two long bars for my 056 supers. One being a 48'' and the other a 72''. The extra long bar was just for one tree and have not used it in about twenty years. May it should be listed on fleebay or something. If you are only milling 50'' slabs and not cutting anything smaller then yes your saw is going to get abused unless it is in the 090 category.

BTW just got a Huztl 070, but have not begun to set it up. Hopefully it will be of some value. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

My bar should be here next week. They had to restock. I am leaning towards the 36", he will have the 41 as well. Then I get to play.


----------



## Boomer 87

Anything new goin on on the 070 front gentlemen


----------



## Bedford T

Its poured here for days getting sick of it. Ground needs to be towards drying to do much. Soupy is dangerous


----------



## davhul

Your waiting on a bar also right


----------



## Bedford T

Yep


----------



## Boomer 87

So im gonna try some of huztls full chisel chain.... is real cheap like 36 bucks for 25ft of .404


----------



## happysaws

Boomer 87 said:


> So im gonna try some of huztls full chisel chain.... is real cheap like 36 bucks for 25ft of .404


Let us know how it works out.


----------



## Bedford T

I am excited about all this. Been reading and just now ordered a extra side cover cause I am going to butcher one of them to follow the lead from the guy who wrote the book on milling...no not Bob. Wonder the best way to cut the cover, its not flat. A bandsaw? I don't have a bandsaw and if that's the right tool. I will call around and find a shop that will do it.

I don't have the tools for assembling the chain, I think buying it in those 25ft rolls is a good idea. One of the best things we can do for the saw and the wood we cut is having a sharp chain to stop and change out as needed, so one will not do for long. When you buy it down at the bottom of the order after you place the order there is a space for a message ask them to include the number of links that comes on that roll in the ad so its easy to figure the loops. I will order one next month and will do the same. maybe they will include that information for all the rolls. One roll would fix you up for a day of milling. I ordered some smaller 16" loops tonight for my 029 and that 14" bar.

.404 Roll
http://www.huztl.net/25FT-Roll-Saw-...hed-Connecting-links-and-6-Boxes-p228089.html

029 16" .325 chain
http://www.huztl.net/325-063-16-inc...-042-044-045-046-048-056-064-066-p431122.html


----------



## cedarhollow

Huztl 105cc saw on sale free shipping $341.10
this beast I think I have got to try. when is the winch scheduled to hit the websale


----------



## Mac&Homelite

cedarhollow said:


> Huztl 105cc saw on sale free shipping $341.10
> this beast I think I have got to try. when is the winch scheduled to hit the websale


Winch would be nice no doubt, but I'm waiting for on of the cutoff saws...


----------



## Bedford T

You guys mean the drill right?


----------



## Bedford T

Anonymous Ownership Poll
https://goo.gl/forms/zbiKvxi2Ao2AoouN2


----------



## TreeJoe

Any updates on the saw?


----------



## Boomer 87

Well, i did a thing lol. I caved and bought one, the build quality is actually alot better than i expected, mine only took maybe 6 pulls to run out of the box. Now it takes one pull to start it cold. Sounds pretty mean oils like mad. Put it on the scale it weighed 28lbs. Im itching to get my 36" bar and chain to really put it to the test. Heres a comparison pic of the massive size next to my fairly large cs800p


----------



## olyman

Boomer 87 said:


> Well, i did a thing lol. I caved and bought one, the build quality is actually alot better than i expected, mine only took maybe 6 pulls to run out of the box. Now it takes one pull to start it cold. Sounds pretty mean oils like mad. Put it on the scale it weighed 28lbs. Im itching to get my 36" bar and chain to really put it to the test. Heres a comparison pic of the massive size next to my fairly large cs800pView attachment 576361


hows the casting quality look???


----------



## Bedford T

Boomer 87 said:


> Well, i did a thing lol. I caved and bought one, the build quality is actually alot better than i expected, mine only took maybe 6 pulls to run out of the box. Now it takes one pull to start it cold. Sounds pretty mean oils like mad. Put it on the scale it weighed 28lbs. Im itching to get my 36" bar and chain to really put it to the test. Heres a comparison pic of the massive size next to my fairly large cs800pView attachment 576361


It's a fatty. She does oil well.


----------



## Bedford T

A dozen took the poll. A dozen small owners 50% also bought fatty.


----------



## Boomer 87

olyman said:


> hows the casting quality look???



Honestly if you put oem tags on it and handed it to me i dont think i could tell the difference


----------



## Bedford T

You should be able to see the quality in the video I did. You can see the pores in it it's so close.


----------



## Bedford T

I love the way it sounds. Bommer I was talking to the biggest milling expert here and tried to talk bar length, did not get a straight answer, or a direct answer. Depends is not helpful but does prove you are on your own. I compared a too big of a bar to surfing the web with 256ram with a 386 processor, painfully slow. But you can do it.

I think that is the dilemma.


----------



## Boomer 87

Well i have a 36" stihl duromatic coming for mine, i noticed after you get longer than 36" in the 3002 mount, bars get real high.

Im goin to have 3 saws to power my mill
1. Echo cs800p 36" for smaller slabs
2. 070 36" for slabs up to 32" wide
3. 056 super 56" for anything beyond 32" wide, yes its to much for a 056 super, but the bar for the super in 56" is half the cost for one for the 070.

As far as the 070 goes i cant vouch for its durability yet, but i know im impressed so far, i didnt think id be huztl kit guy, but im really thinking about doing a 660 and a 372 kit in the future. I like oem better but im not willing to spend that kind of coin to abuse it on a mill, bc i plan to do alot of production milling soon


----------



## Bedford T

You got a plan.

Excatly my way of thinking on huztl. I came around for same reasons except early on. I can say the 660 is a fine saw too and you may enjoy the assembly, it's well mapped out no surprises. Can't help on the 372. I do think they have a better husky coming if you do the 660 first maybe by year end the other husky will come.


----------



## moresnow

Soooo. Without perusing 10 pages..... The saw parts kits appear to be complete? For instance can the 361 parts kit be assembled to running form without additional components? Anybody do a 361 yet? Seems like a fun project.


----------



## Boomer 87

For me it would be about making money the less intial cost to invest is good bc if i dont cant make a go of it then i didnt burn too many dollars


----------



## Bedford T

The 360's have several threads. Yes they are complete. Yes they are useful.


----------



## Boomer 87

moresnow said:


> Soooo. Without perusing 10 pages..... The saw parts kits appear to be complete? For instance can the 361 parts kit be assembled to running form without additional components? Anybody do a 361 yet? Seems like a fun project.



Thats the jist i get is when you buy a kit your buying a complete saw... just in pieces.
The 070s are complete units already assembled


----------



## Bedford T

Boomer 87 said:


> For me it would be about making money the less intial cost to invest is good bc if i dont cant make a go of it then i didnt burn too many dollars


The milling came later for me. The kits were fun and useful. Now the 660 and the 070 can produce something useful with the mill. Different kind of good.


----------



## moresnow

cedarhollow said:


> Huztl





Bedford T said:


> The 360's have several threads. Yes they are complete. Yes they are useful.



Thanks. Any assembly manuals online?


----------



## Bedford T

You mean Stihl manuals? There is a beg thread. You can get just about anything you want there


----------



## Bedford T

http://www.huztl.net


----------



## Ted Jenkins

My Farmertec MS 070 just came yesterday. Mine is pretty much like boomer's similar to my 076 av and little bigger than my 056 supers. The 404 chain and bar option is not looking too good right now. I had a 32" 404 bar and chain that I thought would work pretty well, but after looking at them not sure. The chain has about 75% life left. The bar looks poor. What seems like the best option is to try to get a 3/8 rim clutch so 3/8 050 to 3/8 063 chain will work. A reel of 404 chain will run about $425 and a bar $150 so just bar chain will be more than the saw. That would be OK if the 404 chain had some other purpose however it does not. I was thinking that the 3/8 063 has held up well in my other saws so why not use the 3/8 for everything. Hopefully going to my lathe/machine shop will not be necessary. Would like to find out what others have done. Thanks


----------



## Boomer 87

I was gonna try the huztl .404 chisel chain its like 36$ for 25ft.


----------



## Bedford T

A 36" Stihl bar is about $100 @ your local dealer

huztl chain + shipping is $75.29
that gives you 8 - 36" loops for about $9.50 a loop

i expect a small loop by the end of the week i will post some photos of the chain. others have given it a good grade


----------



## Ted Jenkins

When checking with huztle was told that they do not have any large Stihl bars or chains for 404. Would have ordered some if they had. Possible misunderstanding. Will most likely convert to 3/8'' Thanks


----------



## Boomer 87

They dont have bars, but they have rolls of .404 chain


----------



## Bedford T

Ted Jenkins said:


> When checking with huztle was told that they do not have any large Stihl bars or chains for 404



It's ok, I said at your Stihl dealer, that must have been confusing. Those rolls of .404 on their website won't fit your 3/8. I must have really confused you. Sorry. We have just been talking about bommers 070. We can talk about your 056 too.


----------



## olyman

Bedford T said:


> It's ok, I said at your Stihl dealer, that must have been confusing. Those rolls of .404 on their website won't fit your 3/8. I must have really confused you. Sorry. We have just been talking about bommers 070. We can talk about your 056 too.


so said 070,, only comes complete.. but you said they are going to offer kit soon???????


----------



## Bedford T

I asked. I was told yes. May 2017


----------



## Boomer 87

Ok so im preparing to order a ripping chain for the 070, does anyone have one with a 36" bar in .404 i need to know the drive link count. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

Search for
STIHL-Saw-Chain-Selection-Identification
The 36" bar is 104


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bedford T said:


> It's ok, I said at your Stihl dealer, that must have been confusing. Those rolls of .404 on their website won't fit your 3/8. I must have really confused you. Sorry. We have just been talking about bommers 070. We can talk about your 056 too.



Bedford not confusing at all. My 056's uses 3/8 regular chain. The 070 is setup with a 404 clutch and sprocket. A 404 roll of chain and another 404 bar will be needed unless the clutch and sprocket is changed to a 3/8 chain. If I go with the 404 setup then I will not have any of my other saws that uses 404. My little saws have been converted to use regular 3/8 chain. So will need to go back into my shop to see which way seems most practical for me. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

You took it like i was trying to convince you of something. i dont do those type things. if you are more focused on using one chain go for it. i will not go further. i am here to have fun and if you feel the same way great otherwise i will stay on my side. no issues here.

on to something else.

i lucked up and got 3 NOS stihl .404 chipper type loops. the guy is having to work with the chain to get it ready, its in loops and he combining the loops so he can make the 3 -36". he is working also the rakers for me. 3 awesome chains how lucky was that. that should be around a week, he had to order the straps etc do it and send them to me. gonna be cooking with gas in a couple weeks. i need to go hunt the right tree.


----------



## TimTaylor

Ted Jenkins said:


> Bedford not confusing at all. My 056's uses 3/8 regular chain. The 070 is setup with a 404 clutch and sprocket. A 404 roll of chain and another 404 bar will be needed unless the clutch and sprocket is changed to a 3/8 chain. If I go with the 404 setup then I will not have any of my other saws that uses 404. My little saws have been converted to use regular 3/8 chain. So will need to go back into my shop to see which way seems most practical for me. Thanks


I'm having the same thoughts.my 076 is the only saw I have with 404 and I would like to be able to use the other big bars and chains I have rather than have orphans just for a saw that I really only use for fun once a year. 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## Adam08ski

Boomer 87 said:


> Heres another angle, how bout the legit oem stihls being made in china themselves! now when you add that factor i think i might rather have a knock off than a chinese oem stihl.


I will hazard a guess that ANY Stihl factory in any country whether it be China or Brazil will still have quality control that exceeds any small no brand China factory.

Don't get me wrong I still buy Farmertec parts, but there quality control procedures will be lesser than an OEM, which is backed up by their cheap AM prices and the fact that they are not a recognized OEM themselves, and never will be making copies.


----------



## Bedford T

They Huztl posted longer bars today but nothing to help us here.

a 28" bar delivered is $31.70 
http://www.huztl.net/3-8-063-28inch...60-MS461-MS660-MS661-MS650-MS880-p509232.html


----------



## Boomer 87

Stihl though, 28" aint bad for my 056super...


----------



## Boomer 87

I wish they'd pony up and make a 3,4,and 5 footer already.......


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]


TimTaylor said:


> I'm having the same thoughts.my 076 is the only saw I have with 404 and I would like to be able to use the other big bars and chains I have rather than have orphans just for a saw that I really only use for fun once a year.
> 
> Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk



I broke down and bought more chain. I have 50 large Oak trees on a small ranch that needs to come out ASAP. Without building some clutches and sprockets to run 3/8 chain I just got chain to fit one more saw. So now I have maybe 8 bars extra that only fit one saw. You should look at my shop as there is at least 500 feet of chain. There is 050 chisel 050 semi chisel 404 chisel 404 semi chisel and assorted 3/8 micro, Any day there might be a sale on chain loops. I was thinking that I could come up with some clutches to run fewer sizes of chain and use bars that are inter changeable. I just today called several logging suppliers and they told me that had all the parts in stock except a few minutes latter they called back to say Oregon back ordered the sprockets. Oregon said they were discontinued. Thanks


----------



## Mac&Homelite

When is Huztl going to make some bars in .050 gauge? Not going to make the switch to .063.


----------



## Bedford T

Post that in the what you would like to see thread


----------



## Boomer 87

Is that thread on here somewhere


----------



## Mac&Homelite

Boomer 87 said:


> Is that thread on here somewhere


Yes, http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/huztl-farmertec-what-saw-build-kit-would-you-like-to-see-them-make.307295


----------



## TimTaylor

There is now a bar for my purposes. 25" 063. But, I can't really justify buying it because the freight will triple the cost. The price is awesome for the bar even if it's half good, but I don't want shares in the boat that it's shipped in. Is there some way to have it shipped more reasonably? Cause otherwise a genuine Stihl bar is a better option for me

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

TimTaylor said:


> There is now a bar for my purposes. 25" 063. But, I can't really justify buying it because the freight will triple the cost. The price is awesome for the bar even if it's half good, but I don't want shares in the boat that it's shipped in. Is there some way to have it shipped more reasonably? Cause otherwise a genuine Stihl bar is a better option for me
> 
> Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


Your funny and terrible at math.[emoji5] you can't buy a new Stihl bar for 26.50$ delivered on planet Earth.


----------



## TimTaylor

I guess it's something to do with where I am, I'm not questioning your math but my shipping was showing as US$38 and some cents plus US$10 and some cents for the bar. Makes over NZ$70 for one bar . You called me rightly, I can't get a brand new Stihl bar for that much here, exaggeration isn't just a new Zealand trait but isn't there some way to get it here cheaper,? It's not like it'll get to me over night either, it'll still be many weeks.

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

I use tap a talk. It does not show where you are. I think everybody is in trump town. Sorry. You likely are getting hammered. I would have no way of knowing. I forget the world is a big old place. 

Just so you know the average cost here from Huztl is 38$ for like one bar and two chains. Or 16$ for one bar. Nothing else tacked on.


----------



## Bedford T

I think Australia is another place that has high chainsaw costs. 10 bar and all that on top makes you not want it. I am a tight wad. I have figured the system out and I can usually shave 6-8$ off the 36$. Sounds like you can't


----------



## gary courtney

Is this like the ones from Huztl ? @Bedford T


----------



## Bedford T

He got it from someone else. But it's the same 070 copy.


----------



## Boomer 87

I dont think so bc the huztl kits dont have stihl stamped on them anywhere


----------



## TimTaylor

Bedford T said:


> I use tap a talk. It does not show where you are. I think everybody is in trump town. Sorry. You likely are getting hammered. I would have no way of knowing. I forget the world is a big old place.
> 
> Just so you know the average cost here from Huztl is 38$ for like one bar and two chains. Or 16$ for one bar. Nothing else tacked on.


We are getting hammered on freight. But I'm hopping it'll get better. I'll probably try a bar, it's just that if the freight was more reasonable I would buy two at least and a handful of chains not to mention that 066 that I want to build. 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## Big_Wood

gary courtney said:


> Is this like the ones from Huztl ? @Bedford T




that one even says stihl on the clutch cover.


----------



## Bedford T

He got it from a seller on Alibaba. He says who it was in the video or one of the videos. YouTube removed that video. I speculated to him that was the reason. He is happy with it. He mills often with it just look at his channel.

I am pleased with mine. Bommer said his sounded healthy too. I would buy from farmertec before I bought from an unknown. Even though they can drive you crazy.


----------



## Big_Wood

Bedford T said:


> He got it from a seller on Alibaba. He says who it was in the video or one of the videos. YouTube removed that video. I speculated to him that was the reason. He is happy with it. He mills often with it just look at his channel.
> 
> I am pleased with mine. Bommer said his sounded healthy too. I would buy from farmertec before I bought from an unknown. Even though they can drive you crazy.



drive me crazy? i use farmertec parts all the time, way before you joined this site. it's not about the AM parts, it's about the counterfeit saws and even then i don't care. it's the fact these will be passed off as OEM by many, something i would never fall for but just the thought of someone taking advantage of it annoys me. these AM saws are a good thing for the enthusiest crowd for sure. i've probably owned like 7-8 real 090's over the years so i know what they are about, a big heavy awkward turd as simple as an 090 would likely be the easiest for them to replicate.


----------



## Boomer 87

I dont like the one pictured that says stihl on it, thats not right, the one i have doesnt say stihl anywhere and i dont pass it off as one, you can clearly see the huztl saws arent genuine. Alot of poor guys probly got swindled with saws like the one pictured.

That being said i absolutely love my huztl 070, the fit and finish is better than i thought it would be, i starts one pull cold, super simple , tillotson carb. Theres alot to love ....


----------



## Boomer 87

westcoaster90 said:


> drive me crazy? i use farmertec parts all the time, way before you joined this site. it's not about the AM parts, it's about the counterfeit saws and even then i don't care. it's the fact these will be passed off as OEM by many, something i would never fall for but just the thought of someone taking advantage of it annoys me. these AM saws are a good thing for the enthusiest crowd for sure. i've probably owned like 7-8 real 090's over the years so i know what they are about, a big heavy awkward turd as simple as an 090 would likely be the easiest for them to replicate.



Yeah i love my 070 for what its going to be used for, which is milling. But as far as a loggers/fellers saw, i imagine a mac super pro 125 would eat an 070,090 for lunch all day everyday. Probly no real comparison


----------



## Bedford T

The comes up a lot. Just because it says Stihl on it I never assumed it was. I hope others are better consumers than that. But you make a good point when someone is trying to rip someone off they rely on stickers. Someone hand me a saw and say this is a Stihl it better be. If I see an orange white saw it without stickers you might think crushed rebuilt saw. If OEM is what you are buying you better look it over and ask is this a genuine Stihl? If they say yes it is and you pay them that's theft by taking. I worry more about buying a used saw. No telling how that thing has been abused. Just asking the seller is fraught with trouble. They likely will lie to you. Just look at the excellent saws on Craigslist. That's puffery. The other is theft.


----------



## Boomer 87

I mostly bought mine bc itd be a hell of a milling saw, and lord knows i could never afford a legit brand new 070, and if i could i promise i couldnt run the nuts off it on a mill. Im hoping mine pays for itself when i start milling slabs, hopefully will make enough to upgrade it from a 36" bar to a 56" bar to get the most out of my mill.


----------



## Bedford T

westcoaster90 said:


> drive me crazy? .


if you used them much you would know what I mean. I am not going to argue over that.


----------



## gary courtney

I got the video yesterday off youtube.


----------



## Bedford T

It's been there a while. Thinking of buying? You got a lot to consider like the large mount bar and chain, chain type, etc


----------



## Ted Jenkins

For what it is worth as far as the 070 is concerned it now does not seem so bad. My original idea was to have a saw just to cut larger logs that have already been dropped. Right now I am working two locations and want several saws at each place. Yes the 070 is a heavy beast that just works well in a straight line. But it starts right up and pulls hard. Then all the different bars and different chains issue came up. You need a large mount Stihl Bar with 404 chain to run it unless you convert the clutch to 3/8''. The converting process did not go well in that Oregon back ordered my clutch orders and they are not sure when they will have more in stock since these are slow moving items. Not wanting to fabricate a special clutch and with hundreds of feet of 404 chain which is good chain now what. A couple of my saws run 404 chain just fine with some older clutches that happen to be laying around in my shop. So I got some 404 bar tips for my Husqvarnas and a 404 tip for another Stihl Rollomatic bar and now for a couple of hundred bucks I have FIVE saws running 404 chain. So my tool box will be filled with just 404 chain and some 7/32 files maybe life can be good again. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

Ted Jenkins said:


> For what it is worth as far as the 070 is concerned it now does not seem so bad. My original idea was to have a saw just to cut larger logs that have already been dropped. Right now I am working two locations and want several saws at each place. Yes the 070 is a heavy beast that just works well in a straight line. But it starts right up and pulls hard. Then all the different bars and different chains issue came up. You need a large mount Stihl Bar with 404 chain to run it unless you convert the clutch to 3/8''. The converting process did not go well in that Oregon back ordered my clutch orders and they are not sure when they will have more in stock since these are slow moving items. Not wanting to fabricate a special clutch and with hundreds of feet of 404 chain which is good chain now what. A couple of my saws run 404 chain just fine with some older clutches that happen to be laying around in my shop. So I got some 404 bar tips for my Husqvarnas and a 404 tip for another Stihl Rollomatic bar and now for a couple of hundred bucks I have FIVE saws running 404 chain. So my tool box will be filled with just 404 chain and some 7/32 files maybe life can be good again. Thanks


What's the biggest girth of the average tree in your area?


----------



## Bedford T

I took the extra clutch cover I ordered to the machine shop to have the piece reduced to just the area holding the 070 chain in place. Everyone in charge was out to lunch, lady said it could be s while if they would agree to do it. This place has the capability to do a perfect job. I will just have to refinish it. I am getting there. Baby steps.


----------



## blsnelling

Bedford T said:


> I took the extra clutch cover I ordered to the machine shop to have the piece reduced to just the area holding the 070 chain in place. Everyone in charge was out to lunch, lady said it could be s while if they would agree to do it. This place has the capability to do a perfect job. I will just have to refinish it. I am getting there. Baby steps.


Why would you need to do this? Milling makes smaller pieces than bucking. Besides, the clutch cover is huge. It would not be an issue at all on a mill.


----------



## Bedford T

If you order one of these saws you may want to consider this piston stop. Its the one the service manual recommends. Might be needed over the rope I normally use on the 660 and below. Mine came today I forgot to order one. Got a spare filter as well.
http://www.huztl.net/Piston-Stop-To...TIHL-1107-191-1201-1107-191-1200-p227568.html


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bedford T said:


> What's the biggest girth of the average tree in your area?



14' diameter at chest height but the average that I cut day to day is 24'' to 36'' Today will be starting about 20 Oak logs that are 60'' at the base tapering to 30'' Thanks


----------



## gary courtney

Huztl is out of stock on 070


----------



## Bedford T

Sorry about that. I would think they will restock. Sold out. Glad I did not wait. Save your money and maybe in a few days they will refill.


----------



## Bedford T

Ted Jenkins said:


> 14' diameter at chest height but the average that I cut day to day is 24'' to 36'' Today will be starting about 20 Oak logs that are 60'' at the base tapering to 30'' Thanks


The Glencoe Baobab in South Africa is about 164ft. That would require a long bar.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

The largest that I did by myself was a 9 footer Ponderosa Pine. I had to order a special bar just for that tree. There were at least 10 cords in it or maybe even more. I aimed for some smaller 1' trees and a couple got buried out of sight. I took several hours to get every thing going, but it was fun finally to see it start to sway. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

I got the side cover back from the machinist and he did a great job. One of the things that did not occur to me although it was pointed out, the engine modification allows for easier on off of the chain. I look forward to using it. My bar comes this week and then I will get the chains.



an excerpt out of the book reads:


Engine Modification

An engine sawdust guard does several jobs. It holds the guide plate that controls chain entry into the bar and it is also the clamping bracket for the bar. In normal crosscutting, the guard allows sawdust to be directed away from the saw through a bottom opening. However, when the saw is inverted in the milling position, the opening doesn't allow the sawdust to escape properly, which causes a sawdust buildup between the centrifugal clutch and the guard. This often leads to internal clutch problems and heavy clutch-shoe wear. An easy modification eliminates this problem. Simply cut away the sawdust-shielding portion of the unit and use the guide plate and clamping bracket as you normally would. This exposes additional moving parts, but because the saw is inverted during milling, the advantages make it worthwhile to me (Will Malloff).

*With this modification, you also won't have to remove the bar from the engine to mount or remove the chain.*


----------



## davhul

Talking bars I got this 16" I'm going to do a little testing with. Looking at it I was surprised how well it looked and is machined. I'll see how well the chain keeps its edge hopefully Friday.


----------



## Bedford T

Looking forward to your thoughts. It looks good. I like it's marked.


----------



## Boomer 87

got the bar and chain on mine finally, it is 104 drive links of .404 chain


----------



## Bedford T

She's ready to go. I got the call my bar is ready to be picked up today, chain next.


----------



## Bedford T

What's different bommer with yours


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Boomer 87 said:


> View attachment 579030
> got the bar and chain on mine finally, it is 104 drive links of .404 chain



Mine is set up with a 30" Stihl Rollamatic. Was hoping for a 32'' as that seemed the perfect size since the largest log is about 48'' and my 056 supers have several 48'' bars so settled on a 30''. The bar needed to have the adjusting holes moved about an inch forward to have a realistic range of adjustment, it worked perfectly so just the right amount of links can be used. My thinking was to convert to 3/8 semi chisel since that is what I have the most of. Since all of the suppliers that I contacted did not have the clutch and sprockets in stock I stayed with the 404 chain. Instead I converted a couple 3/8 saws to 404 chain so they would all be the same. The 404 chain cut way better than expected so was very glad to have the 404. I cut a few logs yesterday, but soon was starving for fuel. The pumper pedals in the carb got scrunched a little likely from sloppy assembly so was running inconsistently. Got that replaced and ordered another carb to have for standby. Try again today. Thanks


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bedford T said:


> What's different bommer with yours



I think you will want to move your adjustment holes about an inch forward like mine so you can have a full range of adjustment. Thanks


----------



## Boomer 87

Yes sir i did exactly that you have to redrill the adjuster holes forward on the bar about an inch is perfect. This is done bc the bar i had wasnt a dual pattern bar. By drilling it your making it a dual pattern bar.


----------



## Bedford T

Boomer 87 said:


> Yes sir i did exactly that you have to redrill the adjuster holes forward on the bar about an inch is perfect. This is done bc the bar i had wasnt a dual pattern bar. By drilling it your making it a dual pattern bar.


Happen to have a picture


----------



## Bedford T

Boomer 87 said:


> Yes sir i did exactly that you have to redrill the adjuster holes forward on the bar about an inch is perfect. This is done bc the bar i had wasnt a dual pattern bar. By drilling it your making it a dual pattern bar.


What was your part number. I think mine is a dual pattern.


----------



## Boomer 87

I dont have a pic now but i will get a pic for you later after work.


----------



## Boomer 87

3002 000 9232 is my part number on mine


----------



## Bedford T

As you can see the numbers are different. I will need to confirm but I think I am good regarding pattern. My bar requires 108 links. The 108 blows my plan for 3 36" loops from 5 20" loops if I can't collect enough extra lengths


----------



## Boomer 87

I actually dont know what stihl calls the length mine is bc it doesnt measure 36" with a tape.


----------



## Bedford T

It's 32, 36, 41. I think off the cuff. I will measure mine when I confirm I have the right bar. I will leave it closed. Should know tomorrow


----------



## Boomer 87

Ok so i took my 070 out today cut some 24" oak it did well the carb was almost spot on tune wise maybe just a smidge heavy but during break in its fine how it is. 

Later today i sunk it into a white oak bigger than my 36" bar. So i had the whole bar buried and it pulled... hard. It doesnt spin fast but it also doesnt slow down either. And that was a .404 full comp full chisel stihl 46RS chain. Very aggressive. Overall im impressed. Man is it heavy though, self feeds lol.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Watch out for the compression release. Mine started up right away and then started running worse until it would not stay running. When the compression release was modified it became a different saw. Will likely change the whole system, but it is working for now. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

What did you modify on your compression release?


----------



## TimTaylor

I second that question. I haven't trusted any compression release even a middle aged genuine Stihl one and if there is a way to make them work again reliably..........

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## Boomer 87

Can you block off the decomp button entirely like most other saws? With all the trouble people have with after market decomps id rather take mine out before it breaks.


----------



## Bedford T

The design of this is different than the ones that lose their tops and a pin slips down into the cylinder.

These are not troublesome from my reading and that's why I questioned him about it.


----------



## Boomer 87

Ok i see just concerned is all


----------



## Bedford T

Me too, Still would like to hear more from him on why, how


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bedford T said:


> What did you modify on your compression release?



After a little use the whole compression release became loose and was leaking. Most likely the saw was running perfect except the release was leaking until the engine would not run any more. So stuffed some string into the cylinder to make sure the plunger would not fall into the cylinder then unscrewed the release out. The plunger looked like the c clips were ready to fall out so ran a dremal tool around the head of the plunger making the grooves wider. After putting some lock tight on the threads it got put back in and torqued firm. I took two machine washers and cut a slit onto one side of them and reinstalled them as the OEM were but crimped them back on with a touch of brass from a pencil torch. For me it would be better to have the release not working at all than to loose it in the cylinder. As it turned out the saw is so easy to start the release is not needed at all. It cut about a cord this afternoon with no problems. BTW the chain speed is slower than most of my saws so the chain went through a large amount of wood with out needing much attention to the chain. Thanks


----------



## Boomer 87

So if it failed,can it drop anything down in the cylinder, and wreak havoc on stuff? I need to pull the top off i guess so i can see exactly how it works.


----------



## Bedford T

I looked at the ipl and the mechanism is attached with eclips to the pin. I read what he wrote twice and have trouble understanding it. if the thing came loose you tighten it. if it came loose and if he removed it and said i need to tinker with this because everyone has had trouble with the 660 kit decomp valves? There was a guy that said he needed to do something with his 660 kit cylinder and he was assured it was not necessary and he carried through anyway because that was what he wanted but needed a reason to do it, so he made one.

the ipl shows 2 eclips. it would be helpful to get a second opinion, but the design should not allow it to act like the 660 valve?


----------



## Bedford T

I put the other bar available for the 070 on and it lined up fine. Should have my chains by end of next week. The gray paint is on order to paint the remaining clutch cover and should be here before the chain.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bedford T said:


> I looked at the ipl and the mechanism is attached with eclips to the pin. I read what he wrote twice and have trouble understanding it. if the thing came loose you tighten it. if it came loose and if he removed it and said i need to tinker with this because everyone has had trouble with the 660 kit decomp valves? There was a guy that said he needed to do something with his 660 kit cylinder and he was assured it was not necessary and he carried through anyway because that was what he wanted but needed a reason to do it, so he made one.
> 
> the ipl shows 2 eclips. it would be helpful to get a second opinion, but the design should not allow it to act like the 660 valve?
> View attachment 580002



It was my intention to alert as to the possibility that the plunger or valve that is shown in the picture can and will fall into the cylinder if the C clips come loose. In my case the whole assembly came loose leaking until it would not run. As a quick fix the groves on the upper end of the plunger were enlarged to allow for a much more substantial C clip made from a machine washers. Then the C clips were crimped around the upper end of the plunger then tack welded with brass to do every thing possible that they do not come apart. I located several similar designed compression releases that I have not ordered yet so do not know for sure that they will install with out modification. Some Stihls and Huqavarns use a compression release that are inter changeable that I did order and discovered that will not work without much modification. At this moment I am not sure how to or what to modify to make them work. Or they may not work at all. Since they are so easy to order and inexpensive they seemed like a great option. The cylinder would need to be drilled to a larger hole and taped then the top part of the cylinder would need to be recessed to allow the release to go down into the cylinder at least .25" more. Thanks


----------



## Boomer 87

Well i had a failure today with the 070, put it on the mill, apparently the taper lock on the clutch wasnt tight enough and it spun on the crank. I polished up the crank and its fine but the taper sleeve is galled up, so i ordered another clutch assembly. It was cheap and now ill have a spare clutch. It was hogging wood up until that point.


----------



## Boomer 87

Now im wondering if i should put some loctite on the crank when i install the new assembly. Also need to find out if theres a torque spec for the clutch nut.


----------



## Bedford T

Sorry to hear that. I will check that it's tight. I felt the cover mod was a good idea. Sounds like it might be. Did you take any photos?


----------



## Boomer 87

I didnt, the clutch it self it fine, its just the tapered sleeve that got biffed, but i got a whole new assembly for 16 bucks shipped. Just a precaution for yall check that the nut is properly tight before milling. Just a little hiccup is all. i had plenty of power.


----------



## Bedford T

I saw that there is a rim kit available on Amazon


----------



## Ted Jenkins

I took mine off with a air wrench just to see if any of my extra clutches would fit and then put it back on with a air wrench. So I now know that if it slips the problem would be in the design not the amount of torque it has. I would think under saw mill conditions that it will get very warm so not surprised that it sliped a little. Thanks


----------



## Boomer 87

Yeah i have a new clutch, sleeve and washer on the way as we speak. Im gonna put some blue loctite on the crank and lock it down id like to know if theres a torque spec for that, so then i know for sure its good.

The design lends itself to be a little poor, it should have just been threaded on like a normal saw.


----------



## davhul

The torque spec on the carrier nut is 
50Nm or 37lbf.ft


----------



## Boomer 87

Thank you sir


----------



## Bedford T

boomer you know you can get a manual in the beg section that will have all that info in it. its in the sticky section.

on a general note i got word that my chains had been cut, sharpen and shipped out and would be here around thursday. its rained for days here and it might dry up some by Saturday and maybe i could do some cutting or milling. i have been about as patient as i can stand to be waiting to get this far and then i will go for the upgrades soon, i want to use it a few weeks then go to 090.


----------



## Boomer 87

Double check that clutch nut, its actually loctited i would break it loose, reloctite it and torque it to the 37 lbs just to make sure it doesnt slip


----------



## Bedford T

Thank you sir I will and I will check the flywheel nut.


----------



## Bedford T

a suggestion that the piston stop tool they sell will make that easier. the cylinder is so big in this case rope may not be the best way. the stop is quite large.

http://www.huztl.net/Piston-Stop-To...TIHL-1107-191-1201-1107-191-1200-p227568.html


----------



## Mac&Homelite

Bedford T said:


> a suggestion that the piston stop tool they sell will make that easier. the cylinder is so big in this case rope may not be the best way. the stop is quite large.
> 
> http://www.huztl.net/Piston-Stop-To...TIHL-1107-191-1201-1107-191-1200-p227568.html


I've seen it before, but my concern was that it would leave a nasty dent in the top of the soft piston. I suppose it wouldn't really matter, but it is a thought. I always feel better with the plastic piston stops.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Mac&Homelite said:


> I've seen it before, but my concern was that it would leave a nasty dent in the top of the soft piston. I suppose it wouldn't really matter, but it is a thought. I always feel better with the plastic piston stops.



That is what air wrenches are for. I hate to put any torque on the pistons, unless there are not any options. I take a little more time and stuff contractor string into the plug hole. Either way is probably OK. Thanks


----------



## Derf

Mac&Homelite said:


> I've seen it before, but my concern was that it would leave a nasty dent in the top of the soft piston. I suppose it wouldn't really matter, but it is a thought. I always feel better with the plastic piston stops.



I've had some good luck glueing a thick piece of card board (not corrugated soft stuff like a packing box, but hard card stock like for making a gasket) to the end of the metal piston stop so they never mar the piston.


----------



## Bedford T

I have never used a metal piston stop. The service manual never called for one. The 070 manual my buddy provide is the lastest and it gives you the part number to use and it's the same to the Huztl link. This saw is big fellas. Did I say big? Huge. That's a 14mm plug hole so around half inch rope in that cavern of a cylinder. Anyway I bought one to use for those reasons. If I shoot myself I will admit it.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Do you like the saw? Is it working for you? It does not appear big to me. Yes it is bigger than some of my saws. It seems the same as my 075 AV. I will be building my 075 and then compare it with the 070. I do not need the 070 to limb, but cut away at logs only and it seemed to get the job done. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

yes and its big for me


----------



## Bedford T

Got my chains just now. It's cleared and the winds are very high so tomorrow should be a bad day for any tree I find needed some attention


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

Mount that bar and see her at least rev up [emoji846]


----------



## Ted Jenkins

I have run a few tanks through mine and now considering my second chain. The first chain is still cutting, but it will be in the scrap metal pile soon. It is a little bulky and weighs more than some, however it is old school and super easy to work on. Thanks


----------



## Boomer 87

I got the new clutch back on mine and torqued properly, may be a mistake but i put some loctite on the crank surface then installed it. I figured id rather have to pull the clutch with a puller or heat the clutch to get it off then have it spin on the crank again.


----------



## Bedford T

My clutch nut was loose. I am going to remove and re torque it with loctite today


----------



## olyman

Bedford T said:


> My clutch nut was loose. I am going to remove and re torque it with loctite today


thanks for keeping this alive,,and update us on the 090..................


----------



## Boomer 87

I stuffed regular recoil rope in the cylinder when i torqued my clutch, it worked fine. I like it better than a piston stop as it puts pressure across more of the piston. Now im thinking i need to check torque on the flywheel nut also.


----------



## Ozhoo

Boomer 87 said:


> Now im thinking i need to check torque on the flywheel nut also.



Check cylinder bolts while you're checkin


----------



## Bedford T

Cylinder bolts after ever milling session.


----------



## Bedford T

Yesterday I slipped off and was going to put that bar on. Shoulda seen me. Outboard clutches make that harder that what I am used to. Never got it on between the weight and me second guessing myself at the end of a very long day. This morning I was way behind on stuff and it was beautiful do I got busy and never went back to the saw. Once I dropped that big chain and it knotted straight up. I was laughing at myself the entire time. 

First thing in morning I will get that chain on. I felt better about it later when my buddy who is the man when it comes to this stuff thought it was funny too. He said noone wants to do that for that reason. 

They called me to pickup my Stihl gray paint and I got it home it had no spray button on it. I bet most people would caught that. Anyway live and learn


----------



## Boomer 87

Did a quick check today after work, flywheel bolt was good and cylinder bolt were good, hope the clutch dont give me any fits from here on out


----------



## Bedford T

The guy that wrote the book on milling says we should check those cylinder bolts on these saws daily. I guess I see why, just stress


----------



## olyman

Bedford T said:


> The guy that wrote the book on milling says we should check those cylinder bolts on these saws daily. I guess I see why, just stress


john maloff...


----------



## Boomer 87

Well did some test cuts just a bit ago, so far so good gonna use it tomorrow to flush cut my cypress slab ends well see how it works then.


----------



## Bedford T

olyman said:


> john maloff...



Will malloff in case someone looks him up


----------



## olyman

Bedford T said:


> Will malloff in case someone looks him up


 thanks,,,


----------



## Bedford T

I can't get my chain on the bar. The bar is suppose to work, but it don't. I know the out board clutches make it harder. 

My bar is to far forward if it's to work. How did you adjust yours Boomer?

My holes line up and fit the studs the adjuster fits in the bar, adjuster is all the way back. Chain is in groove, chain moves and is engaged. You see how far off I am. Makes no sense to me.


----------



## Boomer 87

I had to drill a new adjuster hole about an inch in front of the factory one, to turn it into a dual pattern bar


----------



## Bedford T

So that would give me another inch?


----------



## Bedford T

I thought I bought a dual pattern bar


----------



## Boomer 87

Does ot have 4 adjusting holes or just 2. The dual pattern bar has 4 adjusting pin holes


----------



## Bedford T

So what's this?
Not?


----------



## Boomer 87

Thats what i had, i drilled two more holes about an inch ahead of the factory holes, "towards the tip"then it will work i bet


----------



## Bedford T

Thanks. I kept beating my head against the wall because I was going on I bought the right one.
Thanks for clearing that up


----------



## Boomer 87

Slide the bar back until the oil hole lines up perfectly with the start of the oil slot in the saw that will give you where you need to put the new adjuster hole.


----------



## Bedford T

Did you have a second pair of hands with you?


----------



## Boomer 87

I had a helper lol.


----------



## Bedford T

Good cause it was not working for me. I will see if I can get the right bar or get some help.

Thanks again


----------



## Boomer 87

What settings are your 070s carbs set at? Im getting some governor fluttering while cutting with mine. Trying to figure where i need to go on the hi side.


----------



## Bedford T

I will get that for you quick as I can. I am gathering parts, I started my 029 rebuild and there was 3 things I overlooked. Do you have a copy of the manual? Check toubleshot g in meantime and see if it says anything


----------



## Boomer 87

Ill give it a look see


----------



## Bedford T

ok where do you stand? i got my 029 redone and i am not a clamshell fan. i had time to think about how i could help you and i have not even got a bar mounted yet so anything i check on my saw is not going to help you. right?

what did you find out in the manual. gotta be something in there about the governor. tell me what to check if there is something i can share.

the 029 wore me out i will wait to tune it. i need food


----------



## Boomer 87

Owners manual says 3/4 turn lo side and 1 full turn high side. I set my high side at 1-1/8 turn while its still breaking in but i haven't cut with it to know if it's perfect yet


----------



## Boomer 87

Im going to look into maybe adjusting the governor i had 1-1/8 turn on the high side then i put a tach on it and im gettin 6400 rpm, id like to get about 8000 what the manual states. Its pulls hard now, but if i could get that extra 1600 rpm itd really hog.


----------



## Bedford T

I know there is instructions for adjusting the governor. Some will tell you to disable it, I won't. I am going to find someone to help hold my bar for marking so I can get going


----------



## Boomer 87

I dont want to disable it i dont think, but i need to get a little more speed out of it


----------



## Boomer 87

Downloaded service manual found out just moving the governor spring around will get my speed where it needs to be.


----------



## Boomer 87

So i got up earlier this morning. Took the recoil off and found the governor,it actually works the choke butterfly pretty ingenious.so i tightend the spring two notches and retached it at almost 7400rpm the service manual says shoot for 7500. So now im itchin to see what the extra 1000rpm does for it in the cut


----------



## Bedford T

I knew we would be screwed without that manual. Good go Boomer 

I forgot to grease my gears on the 029 pump so I am going to focus on my 070 now today here forward


----------



## olyman

Boomer 87 said:


> So i got up earlier this morning. Took the recoil off and found the governor,it actually works the choke butterfly pretty ingenious.so i tightend the spring two notches and retached it at almost 7400rpm the service manual says shoot for 7500. So now im itchin to see what the extra 1000rpm does for it in the cut


when the newer saws are spinning right around 12,500, even the 1200 r's difference your shooting for,,will make a big diff.........


----------



## Adam08ski

Bedford T said:


> View attachment 577313
> I took the extra clutch cover I ordered to the machine shop to have the piece reduced to just the area holding the 070 chain in place. Everyone in charge was out to lunch, lady said it could be s while if they would agree to do it. This place has the capability to do a perfect job. I will just have to refinish it. I am getting there. Baby steps.



This just screams pain for anyone near to the saw if the chain lets go... IMO


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bedford T said:


> I can't get my chain on the bar. The bar is suppose to work, but it don't. I know the out board clutches make it harder.
> 
> My bar is to far forward if it's to work. How did you adjust yours Boomer?
> 
> My holes line up and fit the studs the adjuster fits in the bar, adjuster is all the way back. Chain is in groove, chain moves and is engaged. You see how far off I am. Makes no sense to me.



It appears that many bars have two sets of holes some do not, mine did not so it got modified immediately. Earlier in this threat it was brought up. Mine has worked well since. Mine has several tanks on it with no problems after the compression release was modified. How is yours working? Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

How many pages does your manual have?


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bedford T said:


> How many pages does your manual have?



About 32. It is not anything that is a source of technical data, but yes it got read. The biggest that that was important to me was what type of sprocket did it have. Was going to convert to 3/8 chain, but am very glad I stayed with the 404 as it performs very well. Thanks


----------



## Boomer 87

Ok so i moved the governor spring two notches tighter gained another 1000rpm spun 7400rpm now.....that made all the difference in the world! That thing pulls like a freight train now! I love it.


----------



## Bedford T

Go to the beg thread and ask for the 070 manual. It's in the chainsaw sticky thread. It got put up when this thread did and it's the updated current service manual. About 90 pages. It is complete.


----------



## Bedford T

Boomer 87 said:


> Ok so i moved the governor spring two notches tighter gained another 1000rpm spun 7400rpm now.....that made all the difference in the world! That thing pulls like a freight train now! I love it.


Glad you got your problem sorted


----------



## gary courtney




----------



## Bedford T

For those that don't know where the manual beg thread is look here, they will hook you up with the right 070/090 manual, just say please ;-) :
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/the-beg-for-manuals-thread.68615/

Today i met a really capable chain and bar expert. I went to his shop to pick up my bar. Cannon is out of the CSB-S2-36-L until the fall, he had one I said I am on my way hold on to it, its a dual pattern. It does cause me some issues because the loops my buddy made me were 108 link and this bar uses 111 so i gotta fix that. While there I saw his very impressive army of grinders, this fella is armed and dangerous. he also can maintain the bar groove. Anyway i just got one step closer to where i want to be. I just noticed they match


----------



## Bedford T

Holy molly this is really a fine saw. i just spent 30 minutes with it. my bar and chain really made this fatty go. I topped out in my cut at 7200 so I will raise it some later by adjusting the governor. I need some large wood to noodle to break this in. There is a guy about an hours ride who has some wood he has pushed over. I will help him out and help myself out and get some gas run in it. I am using av100 and the HR1 40:1 , seems to lap it up, literally. That oiler is amazing, my 36" bar is nice and wet like i wish all my saws were, I guess it would do a 48" just as well plus it has the extra push available.

It had not been started since i got it and it fired on the 4 pull, 2 pulls did not count cause I did not reset the decomp and it jerked it right outta my hand. You don't want to get in the way of that chain until it calms down. Its big and heavy and so awesome.

I went ahead of myself and modified that clutch cover and today after actually getting to use it and not just going on whats is written in a book, I think it really helps the saw release the heat from the clutch and it holds the chain perfectly and certainly will be most suitable when its strapped into the Holzfforma, but when you noddle with this monster the modified cover has your back again, just saying... Cleanup was real quick, my air gun got to it all and dealing with the chain is much easier.

I want to say the square cut chain is very good in the wood, I am sold. I had both the stihl bar and the cannon and the cannon I think is the better bar. If you guys want the best source for your bars and chains over 28" done by an expert with exceptional skill and equipment give Anthony a calll over at AP's Bar Shop. He has a website by same name.

Monster saw, perfect chain and bar what a wood weapon!


----------



## Bedford T

Someone just posted on my youtube channel that they could not get the bar they bought from Huztl to work. Huztl does not sell bars any size that will fit this saw that is why you need to know AP's Bar Shop. Poor fella was at wits end. This is the most i can do to help and how people run up on it is out of my hands as well. Huztl did have the .404 .63 in rolls. Anthony can make your loops and send them to you, he uses stihl and oregon chain


----------



## Bedford T

an update

I wanted to add this info in the right place. Huztl does not make a bar for this. Cannon does and Stihl has two we can make work. i just asked a guy in the business if he would buy the bars locally and drill them and ship them to you. i bought the cannon because i wanted the bar perfect and it would be if he drilled it. if he needs a saw to measure i will take him mine if it offers us a permanent solution. i just sent him an email and asked if he could help us with it and he might...maybe if you buy some of your chain from him. He is an expert on both. we will hear something if he says yes and his terms. or maybe he can point us somewhere if he can't. Buying these bars locally makes more sense because of international shipping. my bar is heavy and they charge by the pound or kilo or what ever.

the other thing that dawned on me i am not sure anyone has asked farmertec if they would keep the 090 cylinder stocked on huztl and also offer a 6 shoe clutch, so i did , just sent the message, maybe we will hear how they feel on the subject soon. man a farmertec kit with the top and the clutch would make an upgrade a slam dunk.

so all this info provides more options. he said earlier in the week when he wrote that the 070 kits would be out by end of next month at the lastest and he said the kit delay was due to very high demand for the complete saw in africa and he just had trouble keeping up, he would and we will get the kits.

they said to expect great things to come, like brush cutter, hedge trimmers, earth augers and frequent sales like cylinder kit days, carby days, etc. get those wallets out.


----------



## Bedford T

Ok i heard back from anthony at APsbarshop com and he will provide a place to buy the bars for the huztl 070 saws. he is looking at it right now. Checking for best prices and so forth of the different makes and he can and will drill the bars out properly if needed so everyone has the best possible experience after all he is the US cannon service center. that tells you how good he is.

so now we have a one stop shop. 

cool


----------



## tbohn

I received my 070 last week. After looking at .404 options I decided to convert to 3/8 pitch and modify the bar studs to take the standard large 3002 stihl bar. I will have to drill some holes in the 3002 mount for the chain adjuster. I think I will try to start with Huztl's 28 inch bar. I may have to add some links???
I can get this setup for around $60 including the rim drum, bar and chain. I can use this bar on my 660 too.


----------



## TimTaylor

I would like to know what you think of the huztl bar. 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## tbohn

TimTaylor said:


> I would like to know what you think of the huztl bar.
> 
> Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


I haven't used it yet. I will be trying it this week on my 660 and also a smaller 16 inch too.


----------



## TimTaylor

tbohn said:


> I haven't used it yet. I will be trying it this week on my 660 and also a smaller 16 inch too.


I have two 25" from them. The coating is very hard wearing,I had hoped the" for the working man" would wear off quickly but I think it will outlast the bar, Stihl should learn how to coat their bars like that.... otherwise not super impressed but they are very cheep and I expect they will improve them quickly.

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## OTAlucard

TimTaylor said:


> I have two 25" from them. The coating is very hard wearing,I had hoped the" for the working man" would wear off quickly but I think it will outlast the bar, Stihl should learn how to coat their bars like that.... otherwise not super impressed but they are very cheep and I expect they will improve them quickly.
> 
> Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk




I Bought two 28's for stumping I Figured it would be perfect for that ! and should be able to stump for a life time


----------



## TimTaylor

OTAlucard said:


> I Bought two 28's for stumping I Figured it would be perfect for that ! and should be able to stump for a life time


That's pretty much what I'm doing with mine. I have a couple of hundred very old native stumps about 10 foot high that have been dead for maybe fifteen years, full of dust and dirt. Great firewood but very hard on gear. 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

They are so heavy a use like that or milling is what they are best for.


----------



## rynosawr

Does anyone know when the 090 66mm complete built saw or piston and cylinder might be available from Hutzl? Also, does anyone know if or when they might be putting these out in kit/parts form?

I respect the real Stihl saw owners, but unless a miracle happens, I doubt I will ever see a real one, nevertheless own a real one. Do I need one? No, but if or when I ever do, it would be awesome to bring it out and cut down whatever might need it.


----------



## OTAlucard

Remade my 070 video. 



Then I found another issue. The air filter is all jacked. There's two locator pin holes on the filter But no locator pins on the case. 

So I sealed up those with silicone and greased the intake flange good. 

I'll do my best to use this chainsaw as much as I can to let you all know how it holds up for $265 dollars.


----------



## Bedford T

I think the filter is correct. It sits in a groove and then the protrusions on the filter push against the cover and it stays in place.

I see what your saying that some foam or something around the opening looks like it would be helpful. The saw is a copy, so that is the way they made them. Others have also seen a need for a better filtration system. it's kinda ugly. But looks effective.


----------



## Bedford T

I looked a little closer and show some photos here of both sides of the filter. the groove goes on bottom and the protrusions are marked and the three protrusions on the cover are grouped together and should be tight offering the grip it provides, just no seal beyond that. Having the filter loose so you can keep it clean might be better than having it glued in place. although if the silicone dries on the filter first it might offer some seal, you will just need to tell us. there is not much room in that small groove and the silicone could interfere, just have to look at it from that angle and see.

i could not find a better option, still looking. to all you mericans happy 4th


----------



## OTAlucard

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]


Bedford T said:


> I looked a little closer and show some photos here of both sides of the filter. the groove goes on bottom and the protrusions are marked and the three protrusions on the cover are grouped together and should be tight offering the grip it provides, just no seal beyond that. Having the filter loose so you can keep it clean might be better than having it glued in place. although if the silicone dries on the filter first it might offer some seal, you will just need to tell us. there is not much room in that small groove and the silicone could interfere, just have to look at it from that angle and see.
> 
> i could not find a better option, still looking. to all you mericans happy 4th
> 
> View attachment 588723
> View attachment 588724
> View attachment 588725





The red stuff was just grease The blue was silicone 

The grease thing is an old dirtbike riders trick I Use grease to seal the edges of weedeater filters all the time Maybe that's why my Stuff keeps running


----------



## TimTaylor

We used to grease motocross bike air filters on the base to trap dust, but I haven't seen it done on chainsaws, although I use Vaseline on one very poor fitting filter. Is grease on the base the"thing" to do like it was on the crossers?

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## TimTaylor

TimTaylor said:


> We used to grease motocross bike air filters on the base to trap dust, but I haven't seen it done on chainsaws, although I use Vaseline on one very poor fitting filter. Is grease on the base the"thing" to do like it was on the crossers?
> 
> Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


Sorry to interrupt

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

Grease sounds like a great idea. Like I said it has no seal like foam. Dirt and saw dust are very close so if it works on one it should work on the other.


----------



## OTAlucard

i ended up greasing the whole filter on both sides but that's overkill Honestly I Bet the actual stihl filters were this horrible 

if you look at the pictures of people using these saws overseas they don't even run an airfilter lol


----------



## TimTaylor

Yeah it's funny and a bit like any machinery, buy it new and treat it well and its reliable , then it gets old or not respected , so no maintenance, and it starts to give problems, so respect is gone and now it's a piece of !##!. 
Problem is if we start with a new thing that people already tell you could be a piece of !##! Then there is no respect from the start and it pays you back. Human nature. If you hate on a machine I recon it shouldn't be a surprise when it's that machine that breaks. 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

I love on mine. I keep the maintenance at a high level. I like making them last.


----------



## TimTaylor

Absolutely. I'm an old engine nut, all of my round the house machinery is older than me if possible and if it breaks I fix it which means respect when it's used. I have a husqvarna 45 I bought new when I was eighteen and I'm told it's crap. Problem is it's not crap at all it's worn out many bars many times many chains and quite a few sprockets and that's it. Never ridden hard and put away wet. 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## blsnelling

I just saw a con man trying to sell one of these as a Stihl for $1,300.


----------



## X 66 Stang347 X

I would be weary of a "Brand New" Stihl 070 anyway


----------



## OTAlucard

Yeah I hope anybody wanting to buy a saw like that For that kind of money does research first :/ That being said I've really never used a 090-070.
But I Imagine that its close to a real saw.
The real test is to find somebody with a real one that's stock and Run both of them for awhile in different tasks. most say the 090 is a slow cutter anyway 
I Feel the power of my 070 clone is about the same as my Partner K1200 MK2 Cut off saw.

I Used it today to remove some stumps and cut some big branches that had fallen down last night with this little thunderstorm that rolled through 

Just above idle works fine for small stuff lol 

I Was looking up pictures of the real 090 air filter and those holes seem to be plugged up on the real 090 air Filter but I Am not sure


----------



## Robin Wood

OTAlucard said:


> Yeah I hope anybody wanting to buy a saw like that For that kind of money does research first :/ That being said I've really never used a 090-070.
> But I Imagine that its close to a real saw.
> The real test is to find somebody with a real one that's stock and Run both of them for awhile in different tasks. most say the 090 is a slow cutter anyway
> I Feel the power of my 070 clone is about the same as my Partner K1200 MK2 Cut off saw.
> 
> I Used it today to remove some stumps and cut some big branches that had fallen down last night with this little thunderstorm that rolled through
> 
> Just above idle works fine for small stuff lol
> 
> I Was looking up pictures of the real 090 air filter and those holes seem to be plugged up on the real 090 air Filter but I Am not sure



with governor defeated i feel 070's got good revs and power compared to other rev limited big saws. the only con is their lower range of power rpm cutting.

my 070 090 i had will literally pull me into the wood, with rakers set low and good cutter hook

old school filter were pretty much wire mesh type, these days they come with the felt kinda material. could rob some power i guess


----------



## OTAlucard

Robin Wood said:


> with governor defeated i feel 070's got good revs and power compared to other rev limited big saws. the only con is their lower range of power rpm cutting.
> 
> my 070 090 i had will literally pull me into the wood, with rakers set low and good cutter hook
> 
> old school filter were pretty much wire mesh type, these days they come with the felt kinda material. could rob some power i guess




very cool If you don't mind me asking how hard could you roll /push one into a log with the falling spikes before it would quit cutting


----------



## Bedford T

Robin Wood said:


> with governor defeated i feel 070's got good revs and power compared to other rev limited big saws. the only con is their lower range of power rpm cutting.
> 
> my 070 090 i had will literally pull me into the wood, with rakers set low and good cutter hook
> 
> old school filter were pretty much wire mesh type, these days they come with the felt kinda material. could rob some power i guess


Was your governor defeated on the other 070?


----------



## Robin Wood

OTAlucard said:


> very cool If you don't mind me asking how hard could you roll /push one into a log with the falling spikes before it would quit cutting



i dont recommend pushing/levering hard a saw with glued friction material clutch, they can come out if you're unlucky

i tried to stall my 070 and the clutch lining came off, then i got a new set of later version which is all metal clutch. at about 24" they are almost impossible to stall


----------



## Robin Wood

Bedford T said:


> Was your governor defeated on the other 070?



both my 070 and 090 i had was with governor disabled


----------



## OTAlucard

Robin Wood said:


> i dont recommend pushing/levering hard a saw with glued friction material clutch, they can come out if you're unlucky
> 
> i tried to stall my 070 and the clutch lining came off, then i got a new set of later version which is all metal clutch. at about 24" they are almost impossible to stall


Yeah. The china clutch isn't up to snuff. 18 inch bar in hard hard wood with too much pressure not pushing super hard. But as hard as you would think a real one should not stall. ? And the 070 clone stalls. Thank you for shedding some light on this.

I can throw some chips and cut fast but you can stall it if you try. It might be breaking in cause its a little harder to stall after 2 tank fulls. But not much. 

The saw obviously has limitations. I wish I knew somebody with a real one locally that I could swap parts with.


----------



## OTAlucard

One more thing. 

My friend who rides dirtbikes explained to me that you need two dirtbikes to make a judgement to find where something is lacking in one to improve them both

I bought another 250r Honda. I found my bike I had since I was 14 had a problem. It wasn't as crisp and fast as the 250r I just bought.


I replaced the reeds and upgraded the carburetor and spent a lot of time jetting. now my first 250r is faster than my second. I could keep going and make the second one even faster and then I could improve on the first one again. but they're fast enough lol. 

But yeah I think that if I could find a real 070 I Could make big improvements on this saw.


----------



## Bedford T

OTAlucard said:


> Yeah. The china clutch isn't up to snuff. 18 inch bar in hard hard wood with too much pressure not pushing super hard. But as hard as you would think a real one should not stall. ? And the 070 clone stalls. Thank you for shedding some light on this.
> 
> I can throw some chips and cut fast but you can stall it if you try. It might be breaking in cause its a little harder to stall after 2 tank fulls. But not much.
> 
> The saw obviously has limitations. I wish I knew somebody with a real one locally that I could swap parts with.


Just curious what chain are you using?


----------



## OTAlucard

Bedford T said:


> Just curious what chain are you using?


Huztl .404


----------



## Bedford T

My back is out or I would go bury my bar. Others have not complained about power.... hopefully it's something that can be fixed. My back will be better within a week I got a 34" diameter tall stump I can give some feedback with. The limited cutting I have done with mine, it was very powerful, no issues. Sometimes a near pinch will almost stop it. Mine kept a steady 7700 rpm in the cut which is slower than say my 660. My governor is active, I think it was on the second notch if my memory is correct.


----------



## OTAlucard

Bedford ! No need to mess with it if you dont have to !


I need to work with the saw some more and get a bigger bar
The power is there the power is amazing actually. This is way better than a poulan or cheap saw at Wal-Mart

Maybe I don't have it tuned right but I just don't know.

I used it for another two hours today the compression seems to be coming up to me. But maybe I was tired. 

I let off the throttle after cutting a stump and the chain fell off.

The sprocket didn't have a scratch on it but it chipped 5 drive links so I touched them up with the file and kept going. We removed about 6 smaller scrub oaks and the saw functioned amazingly well.

Bottom line. I really love this saw.


I was just trying to say the clutch might not be as strong as a real 070. I think the clutch is three quarters of a real 070. 

But I've never held a real 070 so I am going by youtube videos and other people


----------



## Bedford T

I was feeling your pain. Clutch may not be as tuff. I think Stihl still sell them


----------



## TimTaylor

Bedford T said:


> I was feeling your pain. Clutch may not be as tuff. I think Stihl still sell them


Based on my small amount of experience with this stuff improvements will occur. All of the known faults with the husky372 kit I ordered had been fixed on the kit I received. Even the decomp. So I'm thinking they are listening and feeding improvements back, which I'm guessing is rare for this type of company. Didn't someone say there was a new six shoe clutch in the works? 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## olyman

Bedford T said:


> I was feeling your pain. Clutch may not be as tuff. I think Stihl still sell them


if its like a 090 clutch and shoes,,bend over,rover........


----------



## Bedford T

The farmertec 36" bar and loops are now available for this monster.

A complete milling solution. 
Mill, bars, chains, two saws.


----------



## Bedford T

olyman said:


> if its like a 090 clutch and shoes,,bend over,rover........


I read somewhere that the linings can easily come off those lined shoes. It surely can't be as bad as that sounded. I asked if they were going to do the the 36" bar and was told no. I asked about the clutch and the jug and was told they would come consider the clutch. They cost me 100 on the bar. I could have waited a little longer. I guess our communication not so good. I am hopeful on the clutch.


----------



## OTAlucard

Yeah I hope they make the clutch.

I was reading that you have to run the chainsaw a bit then re adjust the chain after it warms up. Then when you're done for the day. loosen it on a hard nose bar.

no wonder my chain fell off.

I think that a china stump grinder and trencher that used the same powerhead would be the best thing in the world.


Edit: filling those two holes on the filter and sealing up the filter with grease improved it 1000% I found hardly any dirt in the intake after using it to cut down stumps right near the dirt.


----------



## OTAlucard

What are your thoughts on this


----------



## Ted Jenkins

OTAlucard said:


> One more thing.
> 
> My friend who rides dirtbikes explained to me that you need two dirtbikes to make a judgement to find where something is lacking in one to improve them both
> 
> I bought another 250r Honda. I found my bike I had since I was 14 had a problem. It wasn't as crisp and fast as the 250r I just bought.
> 
> 
> I replaced the reeds and upgraded the carburetor and spent a lot of time jetting. now my first 250r is faster than my second. I could keep going and make the second one even faster and then I could improve on the first one again. but they're fast enough lol.
> 
> But yeah I think that if I could find a real 070 I Could make big improvements on this saw.



You must have a very fast 250R because I have yet to ride a dirt bike that is fast enough. Just because they can be ridden to win a few races does not make them fast enough. Dirt bikes can always be made to shed a few pounds or or more top end over run etc. Saws on the other hand have limitations that are designed for a single purpose. Modded saws that are ported are not my favorite. For those who want to port their saws go for it, but not for me. There is no substitute for displacement. 
My 070 is performing really well and it is so easy to start. You must have a good grip on the starter for when it might sputter in that it could yank your hand pretty good. My clutch has performed pretty much spot on. As far as the governor goes it is still stock, but might play with it some day. Thanks


----------



## OTAlucard

Ted Jenkins said:


> You must have a very fast 250R because I have yet to ride a dirt bike that is fast enough. Just because they can be ridden to win a few races does not make them fast enough. Dirt bikes can always be made to shed a few pounds or or more top end over run etc. Saws on the other hand have limitations that are designed for a single purpose. Modded saws that are ported are not my favorite. For those who want to port their saws go for it, but not for me. There is no substitute for displacement.
> My 070 is performing really well and it is so easy to start. You must have a good grip on the starter for when it might sputter in that it could yank your hand pretty good. My clutch has performed pretty much spot on. As far as the governor goes it is still stock, but might play with it some day. Thanks


Yeah But the faster you go the easier it is to get really hurt 

This is the bike I Was talking about


----------



## Bedford T

OTAlucard said:


> What are your thoughts on this



Wow.

Before we say that's the crank is the flywheel tight? Since I did not assemble the saw it's hard for me to say. I don't have a feel for it. It's running and if the crank was that loose on for example the 660 you would be having problems.

If it was the crank on a 660 your bearings would be loose or wore out that bad on both sides or it would be broke. Bad anyway you look at it.

I would want to guess that the way the flywheel is attached is causing that slop. I would have to study up on it.


----------



## OTAlucard

EDIT: Did some research And Found this in the service manual



The crank-shaft end play of 0.2 — 0.4 mm (0.008—0.016″) is controlled by two plastic check plates on the crank-shaft. These check plates are available in different thicknesses in order to get the correct end play of 0.2 — 0.4 mm (0.008 to 0.016″). End Quote


Mine is 0.025' endplay Its not horrible but its pretty bad
<End Edit>
the whole crank - clutch move back and fourth in the cases Quality control was asleep at the wheel here I Think You can rattle the whole crank if you jerk the saw around


The sad thing is I Think it was that way from the start Cause I remember I Picked it up real hard off the ground and heard a clunk when it was Already Turned off And thought it was the clutch or something

I Took the starter off again to put a decal on the starter That's how I moved the crank And noticed that

wow Atleast the Plastic Stihl Logo makes it look really pretty


----------



## Bedford T

Mine is not like that. You sure are having problems. 

They really need some farmertec badges. I am not mentioning it again with them. People put the stihl badges on them and try to sell them as a stihl. Somebody ought to make badges that say "Stihl Copy"


----------



## fechtichmac

OTAlucard said:


> What are your thoughts on this



They have roller bearings on the crankshaft - same as original 070 
so there is some play normal
E.

Gesendet von meinem SM-G928F mit Tapatalk


----------



## OTAlucard

fechtichmac said:


> They have roller bearings on the crankshaft - same as original 070
> so there is some play normal
> E.
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G928F mit Tapatalk


Thank you My play is 0.025 when the acceptable play should be 0.008 - 0.016 Its out of the range of Acceptable endplay Some people say that its way too much 
Other people say that its okay I Don't know what to think honestly


----------



## fechtichmac

OTAlucard said:


> Thank you My play is 0.025 when the acceptable play should be 0.008 - 0.016 Its out of the range of Acceptable endplay Some people say that its way too much
> Other people say that its okay I Don't know what to think honestly


Will check it on mine tomorrow... 
seen way more play on old contras - 
And they still running great






Gesendet von meinem SM-G928F mit Tapatalk


----------



## OTAlucard

Bedford T said:


> Mine is not like that. You sure are having problems.
> 
> They really need some farmertec badges. I am not mentioning it again with them. People put the stihl badges on them and try to sell them as a stihl. Somebody ought to make badges that say "Stihl Copy"


You don't have any endplay in your crank ?? mine must be messed up 

you can't rock your crank through the cases back and fourth by grabbing on the flywheel ?


----------



## tbohn

I just checked mine. It's hard to be accurate but it has about 0.025 inch of play side to side in the crankshaft. This is right out of the box not started.


----------



## tbohn

tbohn said:


> I just checked mine. It's hard to be accurate but it has about 0.025 inch of play side to side in the crankshaft. This is right out of the box not started.


I just measured again with more accuracy. It's more like 0.030 inch of movement.


----------



## tbohn

tbohn said:


> I haven't used it yet. I will be trying it this week on my 660 and also a smaller 16 inch too.


I used the 28 inch Holzfforma bar yesterday. I went through about a tank. I not used to anything over 20 inch so it felt heavy and somewhat flexible. It did cut well and the chain that came with it worked well. It wasn't a great test since it was in a soft 20 inch diameter poplar tree. I did some noodling with the grain to bury the whole bar...worked great.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## OTAlucard

The best measurement I could get was 0.024-0.025 Also yeah 28 inch is when the bars start to get wobbly Thank you for testing your crankshaft !!!!!


I Do want to say Guys Use the decompression button even if you don't need it To save the starter !!!!!!!!!


----------



## fechtichmac

OTAlucard said:


> The best measurement I could get was 0.024-0.025 Also yeah 28 inch is when the bars start to get wobbly Thank you for testing your crankshaft !!!!!
> 
> 
> I Do want to say Guys Use the decompression button even if you don't need it To save the starter !!!!!!!!!


Have 0.025
E.

Gesendet von meinem SM-G928F mit Tapatalk


----------



## OTAlucard

fechtichmac said:


> Have 0.025
> E.
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G928F mit Tapatalk


one more question

How do you think the power compares vs the real 070 ?


----------



## fechtichmac

OTAlucard said:


> one more question
> 
> How do you think the power compares vs the real 070 ?


Great power - seems the same real 070 has

Gesendet von meinem SM-G928F mit Tapatalk


----------



## OTAlucard

fechtichmac said:


> Great power - seems the same real 070 has
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G928F mit Tapatalk


Very cool. I suspected that the clones have gotten better in the over 10 years that they've made them. I wonder how much money a ms391 is new. Vs what you can get one of these for. 

Ms391 is almost 600 dollars 

I looked up saw rentals and from sunbelt a week rental for a 24 inch chainsaw is almost 300 dollars !


----------



## OTAlucard

I'll just leave this here 

Also yes it's a clone


----------



## Bedford T

OTAlucard said:


> You don't have any endplay in your crank ?? mine must be messed up
> 
> you can't rock your crank through the cases back and fourth by grabbing on the flywheel ?




sorry i have been distracted....

my post and explanation was to say that my saw runs great. i have not assembled one so i have no way of knowing exactly why it has play. look at the photo (ms660). most saws can not have the play you described without having major problems. why, because its fitted. the crank goes inside a bearing that is tightly fitted into the case and then the crank is fitted tightly into the bearing. and you have no play in a healthy saw. so then the 070 is different somehow in how its assembled. i am not interested in looking and trying to understand how from an IPL because i want to see it, nor do i want to assault my 070...yet, so when the kits come out we can get a better understanding how its put together, so how a good running saw can have wiggle.

something is different not necessarily wrong. cut some wood. the guy in the video has a saw that is slow and steady. perfect for milling. you have a 660 for regular stuff right. i see them kinda like a old lover vs an young man in how the cutting occurs. but i am sure curious about the wiggle but not alarmed in any way shape or form.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

I do not care about the wiggle either. Mine is running good and it is exactly what I wanted. It goes through logs very well especially the ones that are more than 16 dia. What is not to like. A new larger saw that can not be worked on in the field will run more than $1500. Mine ran $341 not including bar and chain. Yeah it is heavy, but it is not for limbing. Thanks


----------



## blsnelling

As already mentioned, the 070/090 has roller bearings on the crank. It WILL have end play, unlike most of our modern saws with ball bearings. I don't know how much play is acceptable or normal, but I doubt there's a problem with your saw.


----------



## Bedford T

He made a good point. Just curious why. But heck yeah it a good runner.


----------



## Bedford T

Good info


----------



## fechtichmac

Ted Jenkins said:


> I do not care about the wiggle either. Mine is running good and it is exactly what I wanted. It goes through logs very well especially the ones that are more than 16 dia. What is not to like. A new larger saw that can not be worked on in the field will run more than $1500. Mine ran $341 not including bar and chain. Yeah it is heavy, but it is not for limbing. Thanks


070 are equipped with roller bearings on both cranc sides - two on each side! Must be some play.. seen on older contras more than 1mm - and they still great runners.

Gesendet von meinem SM-G928F mit Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

When you said roller bearings my brain saw ball bearing.


----------



## fechtichmac

Bedford T said:


> When you said roller bearings my brain saw ball bearing.









Gesendet von meinem SM-G928F mit Tapatalk


----------



## tbohn

tbohn said:


> I received my 070 last week. After looking at .404 options I decided to convert to 3/8 pitch and modify the bar studs to take the standard large 3002 stihl bar. I will have to drill some holes in the 3002 mount for the chain adjuster. I think I will try to start with Huztl's 28 inch bar. I may have to add some links???
> I can get this setup for around $60 including the rim drum, bar and chain. I can use this bar on my 660 too.


I pulled the plug on converting to 3/8 pitch. I installed the rim drum with 3/8 pitch but when I looked at the oil holes on the Huztl 28 inch bar they weren't even close the lining up. In fact the oil output holes miss the bar altogether. I guess I'll wait until the Huztl .404 b&c go on sale.


----------



## Bedford T

Sorry the plan fell through. I saw the design and stopped after buying a normal bar and seeing how the saw is setup. I spent big on the bar because they said no least you were saved from that. I am going to save up and buy a carbon chain for mine. Be like paying for a TV but with it I can also cut stumps near the ground with it or some skanky wood. Saw or bar won't care.

I will buy some loops of the Huztl 404 chain and pick my weapon based on what I cut.


----------



## OTAlucard

tbohn said:


> I pulled the plug on converting to 3/8 pitch. I installed the rim drum with 3/8 pitch but when I looked at the oil holes on the Huztl 28 inch bar they weren't even close the lining up. In fact the oil output holes miss the bar altogether. I guess I'll wait until the Huztl .404 b&c go on sale.


There's a 33 inch oregon armor tip on ebay right now for 99 dollars obo free ship. If you want me to link it i can. 

I would've bought that. If i didn't already order a 42 inch. Armor tip. And its backordered

http://www.ebay.com/itm/232407341679


----------



## Ted Jenkins

tbohn said:


> I pulled the plug on converting to 3/8 pitch. I installed the rim drum with 3/8 pitch but when I looked at the oil holes on the Huztl 28 inch bar they weren't even close the lining up. In fact the oil output holes miss the bar altogether. I guess I'll wait until the Huztl .404 b&c go on sale.



This was my experience also. Was going to go 3/8 but too many other issues came up. I wanted about a 30'' bar and had a 24, 32, 36 48, and 72 but just too many if's came up and I needed to be cutting in a couple of days. So just put a brand new 30'' rollomatic bar and a 100' roll of 404 semi with it. I also converted a 3/8 to 404 so they would not all be different. The 404 cuts better than any thing I have ever used before and I thought I knew everything. It takes a little more grissle to pull the 404, but it goes through the hardwood better than anything. This sparked new life back into my older saw collection so will be building up some older cases. I am not sure that I want a 090 cylinder, but maybe another 070 or 076. Thanks


----------



## olskoolgman

What do you guys think of retrofitting a 42 inch Oregon match bar to fit this hutzl 070? I think I can make the oil hole work if I raise the bar up a tad? Then drill a chain tensioner hole. Any fixes on the tensioner? it is about worthless! New guy here might be wishful thinking!


----------



## blsnelling

Bedford T said:


> I am going to save up and buy a carbon chain for mine.


What is a carbon chain?


----------



## tbohn

olskoolgman said:


> What do you guys think of retrofitting a 42 inch Oregon match bar to fit this hutzl 070? I think I can make the oil hole work if I raise the bar up a tad? Then drill a chain tensioner hole. Any fixes on the tensioner? it is about worthless! New guy here might be wishful thinking!


I was planning to modify a 3003 pattern bar (12mm slot) for use on my 070. Add forward adjuster holes, lengthen the slot, find a ~96 dl 3/8 chain, replace the drum with 3/8 rim. The problem was the bar is not wide enough and the oiler holes were missing the bar completely. I don't think adjusting the bar up is a good idea.


----------



## olskoolgman

Thanks for the reply. Hopefully i can figure something out. This bar doesnt get used much anyway.


----------



## Adam08ski

blsnelling said:


> What is a carbon chain?


Think he meant carbide tipped chain. TomAYto, tomAto... 

Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

Mobile finger spelling it always knows best


----------



## Bedford T

I bought a 36" cannon bar and its a shame it can only be used on one of my saws. The MS660 can benefit, I will of course need to change out the sprocket. But to use the bar I found these adapters on Definitive Daves ebay store and bought them. There is always a loop hole but I checked with him. These slip over the studs and the cannon will fit and should also line up with the oiler. So for 10$ and the rim set I can use the large mount bar and chains on my 660. Kinda sweet. Thought i would share that. Heres the store link http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-Chain...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

and a photo below


----------



## teacherman

Bedford T said:


> there is a difference, these saws don't come with stihl on them like fake watches and handbags. in fact look in my sig. i dont pretend they are stihls just copies.


So why has Stihl not gone after this company? Is it because it only builds discontinued models? It stihl seems like patent infringement regardless.


----------



## teacherman

blsnelling said:


> I simply don't care for a counterfeit product, regardless of what it is. That's exactly what these are.


Easy to say when you have an 090G. I have no plans to buy one of these at this point, but the idea of them building that model of a kit definitely has a bit of appeal. But CHiCom is the direct cause of much of our nation's hemorrhaging in recent decades. But it's like the demand for meth and other drugs from Mexico. Free enterprise depends upon enterprising folks seeing then following up on ideas. I'm not big enough to use an 090...... I'm not big enough to use an 090...... I'm not big enough to use an 090......


----------



## Bedford T

teacherman said:


> I'm not big enough to use an 090...... I'm not big enough to use an 090...... I'm not big enough to use an 090......



lol
keep telling your self that.

who knows why they build them. i enjoy them


----------



## fwgsaw

teacherman said:


> So why has Stihl not gone after this company? Is it because it only builds discontinued models? It stihl seems like patent infringement regardless.


Who says the 070 090 Stihl is discontinued? Far as I know the ms720 is still being manufactured by Stihl which is a modern version of the 070.


----------



## TimTaylor

blsnelling said:


> I simply don't care for a counterfeit product, regardless of what it is. That's exactly what these are.


I see that argument and I understand it. But it's complicated I think. I own a BMW. Not a respected brand in New Zealand at all, but we can't all drive counterfeit Chevrolets oops I mean Holdens. Beside the point. To get oil and air filters and general maintenance parts I have a choice, am parts from the local car parts store, poorly made and very expensive, genuine parts from the BMW stealer, made in China and very very very expensive or online genuine sometimes Chineese Austrian or German made, very cheap and great quality. I follow the quality first the price second and I'm sorry but I don't consider the question of counterfeit ness at all. After all aren't all parts copied from the prototype? 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

I find it best to just let it go and enjoy the choices you make and the rewards for being thrifty.


----------



## teacherman

Bedford T said:


> lol
> keep telling your self that.
> 
> who knows why they build them. i enjoy them


I would like to get one, actually. I am not large enough to actually use one, tipping it at 145 after a 16 oz steak dinner, but I did cut my wedding cake with a 660 which I drop started in front of 150 people, made five cuts flawlessly with no table scraps in the cake, so maybe I could do this. I will watch and wait, and maybe the hutztl business will become established and the quality go up to the point it's worth a build. I dunno. I have mixed feelings about this. My ideal monster saw would be an 090AV with a G transmission bolted on to it. It would make a good climbing/limbing saw.


----------



## blsnelling

Bedford T said:


> I bought a 36" cannon bar and its a shame it can only be used on one of my saws. The MS660 can benefit, I will of course need to change out the sprocket. But to use the bar I found these adapters on Definitive Daves ebay store and bought them. There is always a loop hole but I checked with him. These slip over the studs and the cannon will fit and should also line up with the oiler. So for 10$ and the rim set I can use the large mount bar and chains on my 660. Kinda sweet. Thought i would share that. Heres the store link http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-Chainsaw-New-large-mount-to-standard-mount-adapters-3002-to-3003-pair/222119110394?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
> 
> and a photo belowView attachment 593073


I don't believe that's going to work for you. The tails of the bars are VERY different and I don't believe the oil holes line up either.


----------



## Bedford T

the kit has landed
http://www.huztl.net/Complete-Repai...er-Muffler-Carburetor-Handle-Bar-p584588.html

the 660 weighs 9.5 KG
the 070 weighs 14 KG so the shipping cost will be higher, but its worth it for the experience. Do i need two.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

I was asked to help remove a 24'' pine yesterday. It had some lightening damage and the ants were taking over. I brought a limbing saw and a 070. My friend who owns a tree company brought two 660 and a limbing saw. We were in a hurry so as not to have any work left over for the week end. It took me about 20 minutes to cut a cord and a half. It took him about 18 minutes to cut a tree almost identical and he had chisel bit chain as I had semi. Almost no difference except his arms were not as tired because the 070 is pretty heavy. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

The vibration should have been less for you. It is heavy.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

I like it so much am planning on rebuilding my 075's. Thanks


----------



## OTAlucard

Thought I would post this little video I made


----------



## Bedford T

Do you have a [emoji194]? He would be right at home in those shavings.

It's got a nice sound.


----------



## Ms290man

Did Huztl ever release their 090 clutch? Does anyone have the link? I can't find it on their website.


----------



## Bedford T

Not yet, it's oem right now. Have seen zero AM options


----------



## tbohn

I thought I saw a 090 cylinder from Huztl in the past but it's not on their site now.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

They said it's out of stock. I think it's Africa's fault


----------



## Bedford T

You know we had that discussion about the crank play. i got a look at the roller bearing setup and it makes perfect sense. here is a photo


----------



## Bedford T

i got delivery today of the 070 kit and i put up a video of whats in the box, appears to include everything. looking forward to this one. the parts are much larger than anything i have worked with. i can keep one of my 070 on the holzfforma mill full time and i will not cut my chain guard down on this one. i will buy one of huztls bars this time and after i get a look at it will decide what role the cannon plays.


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> i got delivery today of the 070 kit and i put up a video of whats in the box, appears to include everything. looking forward to this one. the parts are much larger than anything i have worked with. i can keep one of my 070 on the holzfforma mill full time and i will not cut my chain guard down on this one. i will buy one of huztls bars this time and after i get a look at it will decide what role the cannon plays.



I placed my order the first day they listed the kits. My order status shows it hasn't shipped yet. I ordered their .404 hardnose bar and chain with it. I am looking forward to the build.


----------



## Bedford T

Send them message. You are as good of a customer as I am.

Recall they said Africa was buying all they could sell so it slowed kits down. I stumbled on it on my porch today. I had not checked shipping once. My calendar has been full for about the last 8 days. Others have kept me very busy. I will wait on ya.


----------



## Bedford T

Thinking ahead some. I looked for buy opportunities on the oem piston bearing and the piston circlips. I did not find any. Since Huztl is out of the large 66mm jug I recalled definitive Dave had a kit on his eBay store. 

He is currently out but expects the kits return in several to three weeks. I asked about the clips and bearing and he said he would get some. Since it's an odd part it might take a week or so to get those.


----------



## OTAlucard

I've got a part number for the 070 Badge that goes on top of the Air Filter I Would really like to get that But the stihl dealer locally said they couldn't get it :/


Bedford T said:


> Thinking ahead some. I looked for buy opportunities on the oem piston bearing and the piston circlips. I did not find any. Since Huztl is out of the large 66mm jug I recalled definitive Dave had a kit on his eBay store.
> 
> He is currently out but expects the kits return in several to three weeks. I asked about the clips and bearing and he said he would get some. Since it's an odd part it might take a week or so to get those.


----------



## Bedford T

OTAlucard said:


> I've got a part number for the 070 Badge that goes on top of the Air Filter I Would really like to get that But the stihl dealer locally said they couldn't get it :/


did you check out ebay with different terms. i know they have the name badge. 

is this the one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-BADGE...423870?hash=item51fc0345be:g:uOoAAOSw8l5ZcQiX


----------



## Bedford T

I looked at the cylinder kit, here are some pics. the piston is domed. looks very nice


----------



## OTAlucard

Definitive Dave Or Robin wood If any of you see this Can you please see if you can get the part number 1106 967 1500  that's the 070 plastic name tag that goes on the air filter cover !


----------



## Bedford T

OTAlucard said:


> Definitive Dave Or Robin wood If any of you see this Can you please see if you can get the part number 1106 967 1500 that's the 070 plastic name tag that goes on the air filter cover !


edit your post to read @de etc and the system will flag them


----------



## steve easy

So the 070 kit turned up, quality is good for the price. Missing some small parts, linkage from carb to governor, wire from on/off switch to coil and various screws. The jigsaw was going together good untill i came across a broken ring. Comparing cases hultz/ New west there's no difference other than nw has a serial number. Thanks to the hultz kits I'll be able to resurrect a couple of 090 parts saws I have.


----------



## Bedford T

I will look closer at my kit and see if that's a one off or if the kits are just short. I was waiting on tbohn to get his before I started assembly and posting pics and such. I am having surgery on my hand to remove a piece of metal thursday and it might be Saturday before I can do it. If your were talking about piston rings I look at my cylinder kit and they looked fine.


----------



## tbohn

My 070 kit arrived yesterday. I have not opened it up yet. Maybe I will get to open it up tonight and check for missing parts.


----------



## Bedford T

Here is a linkage


----------



## Bedford T

Not sure what these double threaded studs are for. The two screws are m5x16. The nuts fit the studs


----------



## Bedford T

This is another set of odd ones. The small one is m5x18. The nut fits the long flat head


----------



## Bedford T

These are larger than the previous set


----------



## Bedford T

Carb handle support


----------



## Bedford T

This looks like throttle linkage? The fuel vent is kinda hard to see


----------



## Bedford T

Some of this is hard to describe. One of these has a screen so maybe for oil?


----------



## Bedford T

These have to be duplicates of the small ones? Maybe not.


----------



## Bedford T

Bag of rubber


----------



## Bedford T

Unknown


----------



## steve easy

Bedford T said:


> Here is a linkage


That's the one I'm missing, just had governor stuff in bag. Yes piston ring was fractured somewhere along the line, I just finished it off.


----------



## steve easy

Bedford T said:


> Unknown


To do with oil pump


----------



## Bedford T

this was the rest. if i took a pic its not in the list. some of this stuff dont have a clue where it goes.

*
Crank

Oil pump 

Carb

Spark cap/cord

Piston needle bearing

Chain adjuster

1- M4x9

16-m5x16

2-m5x28

5-6x19 

1-6x20

1-m10 nut

1-m8 nut 

2-4mx16

4x6mx25

Fuel hose kit

Spark plug

Fuel pickup

Metal Support

Metal shield exhaust

Bar shield plate

Coil magneto

Flywheel

Cylinder shroud support

Fuel cap

Dogs bolts

6-m4x12

Oil seals bushings

Bar studs nuts

Rubber pickup hose 

Governor 

3 large washers

Top shroud

Starter

Oil chamber

Clutch shield

Muffler

Trigger assembly

Cylinder kit

Cooling fan

Clutch 

Sprocket and bearing 

Handle bar

Air filter

Gasket set

case


this pic did not upload ????
*


----------



## steve easy

Bedford T said:


> Some of this is hard to describe. One of these has a screen so maybe for oil?


The bush thing is got me stumped don't know what it is for? The bolt mates up with the oil pump washer thingy. Sure it's got a technical name but I wouldn't have a clue only learning.


----------



## Bedford T

steve easy said:


> The bush thing is got me stumped don't know what it is for? The bolt mates up with the oil pump washer thingy. Sure it's got a technical name but I wouldn't have a clue only learning.


hang in there we will learn together. we have done it several times. this really is greek compared to the other kits.


----------



## Bedford T

steve easy said:


> The bush thing is got me stumped don't know what it is for? The bolt mates up with the oil pump washer thingy. Sure it's got a technical name but I wouldn't have a clue only learning.


that piece with the screen is odd, there is a rubber oil hose with a built in screen.


----------



## Bedford T

here ya go


----------



## steve easy

Sweet as thanks. Didn't see the wire(13) in your kit, mine was missing.


----------



## Bedford T

you are correct. dang another wait. i will wait until we look a little closer for something else to pop up before i write them attached the parts numbers too.


. i


----------



## steve easy

My parts diagram doesn't show the bush. I messaged them about missing parts, see what comes of it. I went ahead and placed next order so back to waiting too.


----------



## Bedford T

steve easy said:


> My parts diagram doesn't show the bush. I messaged them about missing parts, see what comes of it. I went ahead and placed next order so back to waiting too.



I opened the magneto/coil bag and look what is attached. i did not get the barrel end in the picture it curled under. did you look in that bag?


----------



## steve easy

Bedford T said:


> I opened the magneto/coil bag and look what is attached. i did not get the barrel end in the picture it curled under. did you look in that bag?View attachment 596989


Yep, figured it should have been in that bag, mine no wire and no nut. Small problems really, it won't put me off buying more kits.


----------



## OTAlucard

Bedford T said:


> I opened the magneto/coil bag and look what is attached. i did not get the barrel end in the picture it curled under. did you look in that bag?View attachment 596989


Bedford ! Before you put your saw together. Could you please take a couple measurements of the ignition plate and the orange box coil pack thing. I would like to try to convert a 070 electronic china ignition to a 041. Fingers crossed. I don't think it will work tho. one can hope.


----------



## steve easy

I'm impressed with how quick the service dept works at hultz. Missing parts are going to be sent out to me.


----------



## Bedford T

32mm thick orange to base slightly higher than the coil side
10mm base thickness
89.5mm diameter
Centered 32.5mm between two bolt pattern
81.5 mm between opposing bolt holes

Good luck

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## OTAlucard

Bedford T said:


> 32mm thick orange to base slightly higher than the coil side
> 10mm base thickness
> 89.5mm diameter
> Centered 32.5mm between two bolt pattern
> 81.5 mm between opposing bolt holes
> 
> Good luck
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Thank You !


----------



## sawfun

OTAlucard said:


> Bedford ! No need to mess with it if you dont have to !
> 
> 
> I need to work with the saw some more and get a bigger bar
> The power is there the power is amazing actually. This is way better than a poulan or cheap saw at Wal-Mart
> 
> Maybe I don't have it tuned right but I just don't know.
> 
> I used it for another two hours today the compression seems to be coming up to me. But maybe I was tired.
> 
> I let off the throttle after cutting a stump and the chain fell off.
> 
> The sprocket didn't have a scratch on it but it chipped 5 drive links so I touched them up with the file and kept going. We removed about 6 smaller scrub oaks and the saw functioned amazingly well.
> 
> Bottom line. I really love this saw.
> 
> 
> I was just trying to say the clutch might not be as strong as a real 070. I think the clutch is three quarters of a real 070.
> 
> But I've never held a real 070 so I am going by youtube videos and other people


The REAL stock 070 clutch is pretty weak as well. I ran my 070 with 60" bar in 55" wood and even though the saw had issues and was down on power, it still smoked the clutch rather quickly. Yes, I stopped right away but did still received a small brown puff of dust.


----------



## Bedford T

So I am itching to get started and now that the eclipse is over. Took the first step and look what I found.

What does this mean?


----------



## OTAlucard

sawfun said:


> The REAL stock 070 clutch is pretty weak as well. I ran my 070 with 60" bar in 55" wood and even though the saw had issues and was down on power, it still smoked the clutch rather quickly. Yes, I stopped right away but did still received a small brown puff of dust.



Thank you for your insight. !
I've never used a real 070 before so I don't know what to expect.
I bought a 42 inch hard nose bar for it And I want to see how well that does.


On a side note. Ebay has the clone of the 070 clutch that has little pads / shoes on it.
The clutch that's in the huztl clone is just metal on metal. I was going to try to see if the one with shoes did a little better 


I feel if it could just not slip for a second. The engine can power it over whatever the chain hit and continue to cut smoothly ! The power is there. But if the revs drop just a little bit the clutch will slip. And you have to restart the cut.


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> So I am itching to get started and now that the eclipse is over. Took the first step and look what I found.
> 
> What does this mean?


I finally opened my kit. Mine does not have the bearing stickers. My bearings were loose in the bag with the case.


----------



## Bedford T

That must mean loose bearings then. 

Was everything there?


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> That must mean loose bearings then.
> 
> Was everything there?


Yes, the bearings easily slip in and out of the case halves.

I need to print my IPL and check for missing parts.


----------



## OTAlucard

I wonder If I should just buy the Oregon Power mate rim drive clutch for the 070. For 30 dollars. Or the gb clutch for 23 dollars. Supposedly the Oregon clutch is the best. Does anybody know anything about the GB branded clutch that seems to be held together by rivets.

Update. I found the oregon rim drive sprocket for 20 dollars shipped. And I also ordered the padded clutch shoe clutch from china. Total cost of the clutch upgrade would be 35 dollars.

I'll report in several weeks if it's any better or not !


----------



## Bedford T

So I took step one to get my crank installed. These are quite a bit different, meaning less stressful to install.

I have run up on my first question. Since no one has experience what would be your best guess and why?

I am thinking the beveled edge would go to the case and the flat side to the crank. Feels like it's made of leather


----------



## Mac&Homelite

Bedford T said:


> So I took step one to get my crank installed. These are quite a bit different, meaning less stressful to install.
> 
> I have run up on my first question. Since no one has experience what would be your best guess and why?
> 
> I am thinking the beveled edge would go to the case and the flat side to the crank. Feels like it's made of leather


Looks like the same stuff that is in some reed valves in saws of the same era. It's something remotely similar to an early carbon fiber if I remember correctly.


----------



## Bedford T

Mac&Homelite said:


> Looks like the same stuff that is in some reed valves in saws of the same era. It's something remotely similar to an early carbon fiber if I remember correctly.


So what's your guess on the position?


----------



## Bedford T

This is step one of the 070 build. Placing the fuel line and tank pickup plus working with the tank gasket and closing it up. Makes you love T27.


----------



## Mac&Homelite

Bedford T said:


> So what's your guess on the position?


Gee, I don't really know? Is there a any radius between the shaft and the counterweight?


----------



## Bedford T

Mac&Homelite said:


> Gee, I don't really know? Is there a any radius between the shaft and the counterweight?


Me neither, we would be guessing using gut instinct. The beveled is towards you


----------



## Bedford T

Anybody got a clue on these studs? I wonder what the measurements or turns are. Certainly they need to be removed and coated with 242 or 243 before placing the crank and buttoning it up


----------



## Bedford T

It looks like my next step will be to record the thread position and remove and coat them with 243 and replace them. I looked at the service manual and not one word I found related to my questions on those bolts. I will let the loctite dry overnight to prevent a mess.

Then since the case half's are separate and most accessible I will fit the governor.

not a single clear reference to the leather washer installation in the manual, either.

It might be much simpler than that on the studs, meaning they get turned all the way down and then slipped in the other case half and tightened with crank in place with gasket on then secured by spring washer and nuts. Its hard to tell at this point but that might be the final stud position. .


----------



## Bedford T

I am going to gamble this bushing needs to be pushed whacked caljoled into place. Think I will verify that before preceding by looking at the complete one. It's going to be a tight fit.





Heat is your friend on these cases






That t27 was all alone in a bag 4mx10. I put a lock washer with it.


----------



## Mac&Homelite

Thanks Bedford for doing all this experimental work for us so that when I get a kit somewhere down the road I will have it put together in an afternoon. I do think that the threaded rods get threaded in completely. As for the other stuff, your guess is better than mine as I do not have a kit to reference off of. Send me one though and I will see what I can do about that lol


----------



## Bedford T

Lol, if I could we all would have one. It's been a long time since someone built one out loud.

And when someone else buys one they can see me stumble and back up and go forward. It's all good.

I put the cases close together and I think the studs go all the way now.


----------



## Mac&Homelite

Bedford T said:


> Lol, if I could we all would have one. It's been a long time since someone built one out loud.
> 
> And when someone else buys one they can see me stumble and back up and go forward. It's all good.
> 
> I put the cases close together and I think the studs go all the way now.


See! You just come on here to talk to us. You don't need our help lol!


----------



## Bedford T

I am flattered, I need lots of help. I was hoping others that have the kit might straighten me out. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

You might run into the holes not aligning on the flap and shaft. I thought bushing might have had a longer side but they are equal. So either the holes are wrong on the shaft or the shutter and I want to believe it's the shutter because it will be easiest to correct.


----------



## OTAlucard

I went out and tried to fit a stihl 070 mount bar on the 660. And it won't line up at all without slotting out the tail and drilling new holes and oil holes. Lots of work !


----------



## Bedford T

Was that a cannon, they have the holes drilled so it can be flexible. A Stihl will not work, I have not seen anything larger than a 20 in FarmerTec, yet. Will order more soon.


----------



## OTAlucard

Bedford T said:


> Was that a cannon, they have the holes drilled so it can be flexible. A Stihl will not work, I have not seen anything larger than a 20 in FarmerTec, yet. Will order more soon.


It was that new old stock 18 inch Sabre hard nose bar that I bought from ebay. 

I picked up that 33 inch armor tip oregon bar for 55 dollars shipped. He was asking 100 at one point. It has dual holes for mounting. But the 42 inch armor tip bar has the same mount pattern as the old school 18 inch bar. I sware the 42 inch bar is as heavy as the chainsaw.


----------



## Bedford T

I got the shutter reshaped and worked out with what I think is a better idea on it's assembly if I can be over confident. I will post it all tomorrow after I rest this evening. There is very little detailed info on that governor on the web.

I also order a few parts like the tank protector and shutter for my 660 build and while I was there I ordered the test flange for the 070 pressure test. Stihl said it was in stock so I should have that in a week.


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> So I took step one to get my crank installed. These are quite a bit different, meaning less stressful to install.
> 
> I have run up on my first question. Since no one has experience what would be your best guess and why?
> 
> I am thinking the beveled edge would go to the case and the flat side to the crank. Feels like it's made of leather


I started on the build. Did we resolve the crank washer question yet? My governor flag holes did line up with the shaft just fine.


----------



## Bedford T

tbohn said:


> I started on the build. Did we resolve the crank washer question yet? My governor flag holes did line up with the shaft just fine.



What was your input on it? I could not find anything on it, nothing detailed. The photos I provided show the crank side as flat and the bearing side as not. So I guessed the beveled would go towards the uneven but flat bearing side. That's great your flap lined up, mine was off about 2 mm for some reason. It's perfect now.


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> What was your input on it? I could not find anything on it, nothing detailed. The photos I provided show the crank side as flat and the bearing side as not. So I guessed the beveled would go towards the uneven but flat bearing side. That's great your flap lined up, mine was off about 2 mm for some reason. It's perfect now.


I think the bevel goes inward towards the crank lobes. The reason I say this that there is a small chamfer where the shaft connects to the lobes. I also have some rust on the crankshaft right where the oil seal sits. I'll have to smooth that up some.











Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## diezelsmoke

My guess would have been bevel towards the seal. Reasoning is the bevel would not hit the seal lips.


----------



## Bedford T

I will go with that, makes sense


----------



## Bedford T

So my idea did not pan out on the governor. I did add a lock washer beneath the 4x10 to the case. I wanted to add a m5 washer between the spring and the flap on the rod to make the spring parallel to the flap but i could not get it to work, maybe because I had to change the flap shape slightly and now its just like the complete 070. And the locite is hard to get to stay on a small screw you handle the hound out of to get in place, i added some in place.


----------



## Bedford T

Just a note for future builders. Short thread down.


----------



## Bedford T

Anybody found the oil plunger for the oil pump? I think that's the next part that needs assembly?


----------



## Bedford T

Bedford T said:


> Anybody found the oil plunger for the oil pump? I think that's the next part that needs assembly?


It's in the oil reservoir


----------



## Bedford T

Tell me your secret. This thing has me sweating trying to get it in.


----------



## Bedford T

I ground out just the edge where this would stand up straight the using the world's biggest flat head to get me access to the top. A heat gun making it un touchable then the world's smallest hammer to pound the flat head putting me safely out of the way of the copper pipe and Bam Bam.


----------



## Bedford T

This was a booger. The hollow bolt did not want to start in the nut and again into the case. I think I have 2 threads visible. We will see if that needs to be adjusted when I attach the pump


----------



## Bedford T

tbohn said:


> I also have some rust on the crankshaft right where the oil seal sits. I'll have to smooth that up some.Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk




thats nasty. can you clean that up completely with maybe some wet sand paper?


----------



## Bedford T

I have been trying to get the oil pump covered and its a pain in the behind. several times parts have sprung all over. is there a good way to do it. currently i am allowing the gasket to dry on the surface so it does not slip all around so easily, you risk tearing the gasket and then you have a wait on your hands. everything i have tried so far has not gotten me anywhere. there has to be a trick to it. anyone?


----------



## Bedford T

I found the trick to be coating the gasket which I already had and pressing it on the case and letting it sit long enough to adhere and then it was not slipping all around and I was able to line the nylon plunger with the pump and place the cover and screw it down. With the gasket slipping it was impossible for me to get it lined up. This made it much simpler.


----------



## Bedford T

can anyone show me on the ipl where these are located? I can not find them. thanks


----------



## davhul

I believe that first one is the oil adjuster seat or cup as Stihl calls it.


----------



## Bedford T

davhul said:


> I believe that first one is the oil adjuster seat or cup as Stihl calls it.


Thats gold.

That also explains the small rubber ring that is next to it.


----------



## davhul

Are the bags kinda categorized like the 660? How's that oil pump look? It's around $200 from the dealer. 
How would you like to be on the helpers hand end bedford. Lol


----------



## Bedford T

I want to make a note, I could not go back and edit the better post to say this.

When you complete your fuel tank go back inside and make sure your pickup is laying free. i checked and mine and it was crammed up in back. i just had to take my hook and pull it forward. This seems to happen frequently and you can head it off by simply checking it. Before its been happening to the prebuilt owners and when they go to mill and lay it on its side and the pickup is out of place and it sucks air when the tank gets low....we don't want this big thing to go lean, that rod is awful big. 

Its a simple fix.


----------



## Bedford T

davhul said:


> Are the bags kinda categorized like the 660? How's that oil pump look? It's around $200 from the dealer.
> How would you like to be on the helpers hand end bedford. Lol


man you are right, I bet that thing would be a handful to hold. bet it would buck right out of your hand unless you held it tight. real tight. lol

the oil pump seems impressive. i noticed that there is a channel from the pump to the crank case. there is a hose that goes into it. i will attach a picture.

the bags are separated. several bags go to an area. in mine it seems everything was there. your ipl provides much more detail than mine


----------



## davhul

Good pics and walk through. I can give you whatever pic you need on the IPL. 
I thought all ipl's showed about the same.


----------



## Bedford T

Thanks, my ipl did not give me the detail you showed me. Your screen had different names. Which I would expect since mine is dated...old. so far just need to figure out the other part I showed. I wonder if it's from the clutch area?

I just did not want to go to step 3 closing up the crank and not understand where those two parts go. When I close I don't want to open it back up

Lol
Oh no


----------



## davhul

I only see 3 washers around the clutch


----------



## Bedford T

How about 22? It's about the size of 15 bushing


----------



## davhul

22 claims to be a ring


----------



## Bedford T

That piece seems like a ring. It's thick with all flat sides. That might be it. I will proceed and see where it leads. Thanks for that


----------



## Bedford T

@tbohn can you take a photo of the cup placement inside the oil compartment and post it?


----------



## steve easy

The service manual I got shows the taper go's toward the case.


----------



## Bedford T

Thanks, I left that out. I ordered another gasket and it will be two weeks before it arrives and I did not want others to make that mistake and I wanted it in the right area of this thread.

I have a copy of the latest manual and nowhere did I see that. What manual are you using and the page #.

That attaches to the hollow bolt and you can also see the rubber bushing placement.

I redid the oil tank step 2 video and made it private and replaced it with the one below. I wish i could edit that post and update the link. I will see if i can untangle it from the utube.


----------



## Bedford T

Here is step 3, the case halves. I will review the case assembly and install the seals and maybe more in the next one. Keeping them as short as possible.


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> Thanks, I left that out. I ordered another gasket and it will be two weeks before it arrives and I did not want others to make that mistake and I wanted it in the right area of this thread.
> 
> I have a copy of the latest manual and nowhere did I see that. What manual are you using and the page #.
> 
> That attaches to the hollow bolt and you can also see the rubber bushing placement.
> 
> I redid the oil tank step 2 video and made it private and replaced it with the one below. I wish i could edit that post and update the link. I will see if i can untangle it from the utube.


I know I'm a little late, Bedford already has this up on video. Here are a couple of photos showing the oil pump stopper with the tapered end down. I had a difficult time getting my camera to focus and take clear pictures.

I'm moving to the ignition next. My IPL shows a sealing ring going on the crankshaft first (#2). I don't have this piece in my kit.









Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

I saw the ring yesterday as I was planning ahead. Not in my kit either.

Putting that cover on is the pits.

Unless it's the spare ring we have.


----------



## tbohn

I messed up a oil seal trying to install it. My deep sockets do not fit well enough to push the seal deep enough. I tried to tap it in with a large flat blade screw driver and it bent. I ordered 6 more sets so I can screw up a couple more times.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

Sorry that happened. Me pulling the oil cover off was painful too. Sounds like I will order the tool Monday for the seals. The one I got for the 660 was not expensive. The manual says to only go flush, sounds like you further.

I ordered gaskets today am ordering seals right now. I will mention the missing seal too.


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> Sorry that happened. Me pulling the oil cover off was painful too. Sounds like I will order the tool Monday for the seals. The one I got for the 660 was not expensive. The manual says to only go flush, sounds like you further.
> 
> I ordered gaskets today am ordering seals right now. I will mention the missing seal too.


I did try to go a little deeper than flush. When the seal was flush, the lip seal was very close the the step on the crankshaft especially with the side to side play in the crankshaft. I have another set of seals so I'll be back at it shortly.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

tbohn said:


> I messed up a oil seal trying to install it. My deep sockets do not fit well enough to push the seal deep enough. I tried to tap it in with a large flat blade screw driver and it bent. I ordered 6 more sets so I can screw up a couple more times.
> Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk



Do you have this? It slips over the clutch shaft.


----------



## Bedford T

tbohn said:


> I did try to go a little deeper than flush. When the seal was flush, the lip seal was very close the the step on the crankshaft especially with the side to side play in the crankshaft. I have another set of seals so I'll be back at it shortly.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk



Manual also says open side to crank.


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> Do you have this? It slips over the clutch shaft.


Yes. I have this part.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> Manual also says open side to crank.


That's what I assumed. Open side towards case.

In some ways this kit is easier to build than the ms660. Once all the questions get ironed out this is an easy build and the quality is great so far.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

tbohn said:


> That's what I assumed. Open side towards case.
> 
> In some ways this kit is easier to build than the ms660. Once all the questions get ironed out this is an easy build and the quality is great so far.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk




This thread will be the go to because the info was not there. Check this out.......was placing order for more seals


----------



## Bedford T

Looking at the stihl tools. sleeve is around 4$ not sure what they will charge, but they also sell friction clutch shoes for16$ and on these they are 3 shoes. that's interesting.

oil seal sleeve is 1106 893 4600
friction shoe 1106 190 4600


----------



## steve easy

I'd say this is an old Service manual.


----------



## Bedford T

This manual has everything but that,
Well again thanks, you had a key piece of information that a Stihl tech using the lastest manual would not have had, unless he had worked on it before. I really enjoy this when people find it interesting and participate.


----------



## tbohn

I resolved the wrecked seal issue and have installed the head. Squish was 0.033 inch without base gasket. I decided to add the base gasket due to the large bore diameter and ended up with about 0.053 inch squish. The cylinder was chamfered okay but there was some flecks in the cylinder liner as in photo.





Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## tbohn

Anyone have ideas on how to set the Huztl module timing? There is some adjustment in rotation.






Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

I think that is a legacy concern from when the plate had points, etc so maybe now position is not as important. But we will see...


----------



## Bedford T

tbohn said:


> Anyone have ideas on how to set the Huztl module timing? There is some adjustment in rotation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


what is that between your spring and the flap on the wind vane?


----------



## Bedford T

If you would like to see the seal installation. I used dirko along the edges.


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> what is that between your spring and the flap on the wind vane?


Nothing

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## tbohn

Anyone know where this goes? It's on page 4 in the IPL.





Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Crashcup

Bedford T said:


> Looking at the stihl tools. sleeve is around 4$ not sure what they will charge,
> 
> oil seal sleeve is 1106 893 4600



Bedford, where are you looking at that part at $4? Is that at the Stihl dealer?


----------



## Crashcup

It's good to see some of these getting assembled, I'm going to need help with mine, and seeing the videos and specific comments on here will certainly help.

I was thinking about getting a junk saw to take apart and re-assemble just to help me get familiar with the parts and assembly (I've worked on 2-stroke dirt bikes before, so I'm comfortable with the engines in general, but I've never worked on a chain saw). I may do a local craigslist ad to see if I can pick up someone's reject rather than them throwing it in the trash. Little or no cost into it other than my time.

Of course, if I could get a 070 or 090, that would be exactly the same parts and assembly, but that's not going to happen. But what do you guys think - how far from a stihl 070/090 would I have to get before there are big differences? Do most saws have similar ignition systems? Similar oil delivery systems? Similar fuel pickups? I would think centrifugal clutches are much the same in all, but I'm not sure.

Thanks,
Keith


----------



## Bedford T

tbohn said:


> Anyone know where this goes? It's on page 4 in the IPL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


Carb


----------



## Bedford T

Crashcup said:


> Bedford, where are you looking at that part at $4? Is that at the Stihl dealer?


Stihl dealer, was looking at a old dealer price sheet. They will mark up. It's no more than a tube.


----------



## Bedford T

Crashcup said:


> It's good to see some of these getting assembled, I'm going to need help with mine, and seeing the videos and specific comments on here will certainly help.
> 
> I was thinking about getting a junk saw to take apart and re-assemble just to help me get familiar with the parts and assembly (I've worked on 2-stroke dirt bikes before, so I'm comfortable with the engines in general, but I've never worked on a chain saw). I may do a local craigslist ad to see if I can pick up someone's reject rather than them throwing it in the trash. Little or no cost into it other than my time.
> 
> Of course, if I could get a 070 or 090, that would be exactly the same parts and assembly, but that's not going to happen. But what do you guys think - how far from a stihl 070/090 would I have to get before there are big differences? Do most saws have similar ignition systems? Similar oil delivery systems? Similar fuel pickups? I would think centrifugal clutches are much the same in all, but I'm not sure.
> 
> Thanks,
> Keith




I was once like you and had no clear videos to watch or step by step to read. The videos consisted of talking about it and with the magic of video you you instantly see the step completed. To me it was just frustrating. Since that time you can see how things get done.

You would be wasting your time and money in my opinion to practice. I would find a video series you can understand and watch it all the way through. Find a thread on the saw you want and read through it. Have a notebook and record post#'s and details, hits, remarks so you can quickly find it later. This is where your time and money would be best spent in "practice". 

Then buy your kit or buy several. Find the build thread and say hi I am starting my build and here is my first step. Provide pictures and or videos and walk and talk about what you are doing and ask questions. When you get an answer make sure they heard you correctly and get going. 

You are going to love it. It's a great feeling. You can do it inside because it's clean. Of course mommy will not like it after you gas it up.


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> Carb


Where? 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

Wish i could be of more help. i think you are farther along than i am. i am stopping to make videos so its taking me longer. the ipl again is of no help here. somewhere i saw it. the carb is a fatty and it holds it up. so i remember seeing it under the carb in some drawing. I will go look at my assembled one and post back in a little while. i want to think its on the left front underneath.


----------



## Bedford T

I was close. It does go on the saw lol just on the other side.

See it on the muffler bottom. i would like to point out its on the wrong side if the ipl is used as a guide.


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> I was close. It does go on the saw lol just on the other side.
> 
> See it on the muffler bottom


Thank you!

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

I just happened to have this in my hands and slid the choke under the rubber piece and put the rubber ring in the throat of the cowl


----------



## tbohn

Here's what I have left over. I did have find four m5 bolts and some m6 lock washers to finish.





Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

tbohn said:


> Here's what I have left over. I did have find four m5 bolts and some m6 lock washers to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk



those two go to the carb and that one square small one is for the muffler?????????????????????????????? I bet that round one goes to the carb also. tbohn you sure those are extra? I am sure you are right. i am surprised. The one with a dip was to the handle


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> those two go to the carb and that one square small one is for the muffler?????????????????????????????? I bet that round one goes to the carb also. tbohn you sure those are extra? I am sure you are right. i am surprised. The one with a dip was to the handle


I followed the IPL for carb placement and exhaust. I had many duplicates for the carb. The handle had an extra. I think the round one is an extra for the oil tank sight glass.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

I know what to expect. Do you have the bar on it yet?


----------



## tbohn

It started after about ten pulls. I adjusted the low needle and idle stop then fattened up the high side about 1/4 turn. Idles great and starts on first pull.

This was the easiest build that I have done with the huztl kits.






Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

They run great. It's super nice to have a strong saw that starts easily.


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> I know what to expect. Do you have the bar on it yet?


I have a Farmertec 36 inch hardnose bar and .404 chain for it.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Crashcup

Bedford T said:


> You would be wasting your time and money in my opinion to practice. I would find a video series you can understand and watch it all the way through. Find a thread on the saw you want and read through it. Have a notebook and record post#'s and details, hits, remarks so you can quickly find it later. This is where your time and money would be best spent in "practice".



Thanks. I guess that's a good point about videos. I think the same question applies, if there are videos out there already on building or re-building a saw, are most built pretty much the same? As far as I know, they're all single-cylinder 2-strokes, the bar mounts the same way.... Do the bar oilers work the same? Fuel delivery? Just wondering for any particular video how different the build might be from the 070. 

Of course, there's the videos you're making.


----------



## Bedford T

@tbohn

can you help me with this while its fresh on your mind?

there are two rings and i only have one, the one i have been showing. the one that looks like it belongs with the clutch.

the other on the ipl goes between the stator and the oil seal. i just noticed i got nothing.
its #2 on this ipl with a part # of 0000 992 5820. i am dead in the water.

I looked at your photo and it looks like you might be bare there as well. The stator is sitting right on the seal and that's not good without whatever this is. I looked on a 090 only ipl and it shows there also. It appears as it comes as a kit according to the way the ipl lists it

oops


----------



## Bedford T

Crashcup said:


> Thanks. I guess that's a good point about videos. I think the same question applies, if there are videos out there already on building or re-building a saw, are most built pretty much the same? As far as I know, they're all single-cylinder 2-strokes, the bar mounts the same way.... Do the bar oilers work the same? Fuel delivery? Just wondering for any particular video how different the build might be from the 070.
> 
> Of course, there's the videos you're making.


The internet is big place.


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> @tbohn
> 
> can you help me with this while its fresh on your mind?
> 
> there are two rings and i only have one, the one i have been showing. the one that looks like it belongs with the clutch.
> 
> the other on the ipl goes between the stator and the oil seal. i just noticed i got nothing.
> its #2 on this ipl with a part # of 0000 992 5820. i am dead in the water.
> 
> I looked at your photo and it looks like you might be bare there as well. The stator is sitting right on the seal and that's not good without whatever this is. I looked on a 090 only ipl and it shows there also. It appears as it comes as a kit according to the way the ipl lists it
> 
> oops
> 
> View attachment 598441


I didn't have it so I deleted it. The stator is offset from the seal. My guess it was there to keep the points cleaner when they have points.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## tbohn

Here it is with the bar mounted. The chain catcher is too long and is preventing the cover from completely contacting the bar. I will either shorten the metal chain catcher or just pull the cover down with the bar nuts.








Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

Nice job. I am going to check into this further on the ring. I have written huztl and I will ask a Stihl guy. It shows up in the distributor price guide.


----------



## tbohn

tbohn said:


> Here it is with the bar mounted. The chain catcher is too long and is preventing the cover from completely contacting the bar. I will either shorten the metal chain catcher or just pull the cover down with the bar nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


I had the chain catcher installed incorrectly. It's all good now.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## steve easy

Bedford T said:


> @tbohn
> 
> can you help me with this while its fresh on your mind?
> 
> there are two rings and i only have one, the one i have been showing. the one that looks like it belongs with the clutch.
> 
> the other on the ipl goes between the stator and the oil seal. i just noticed i got nothing.
> its #2 on this ipl with a part # of 0000 992 5820. i am dead in the water.
> 
> I looked at your photo and it looks like you might be bare there as well. The stator is sitting right on the seal and that's not good without whatever this is. I looked on a 090 only ipl and it shows there also. It appears as it comes as a kit according to the way the ipl lists it
> 
> oops
> 
> View attachment 598441


The 070 
kit did not have one. Here's the one out of the 090 I'm trying to fix with some hultz cases.


----------



## Bedford T

I got word from them it (0000-992-8820 felt gasket) was suppose to be in the kit. guess they did not have a source. i got one from the dealer for 1.82$ i am glad i questioned them that washer looks helpful. Could not find a photo of it anywhere. my stihl guy and my dealer had no reference pics. so that photo again was helpful. should be in this week and i can continue.

i also ordered oem 9462-650-1500 15mm snap rings. i want to see what they look like. they were high dollar. 1.49ea. a 12mm is only .43 each. i might go with the 090 cylinder.

the 4$ test flange arrived so i can test my pressure when that time comes.


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> I got word from them it (0000-992-8820 felt gasket) was suppose to be in the kit. guess they did not have a source. i got one from the dealer for 1.82$ i am glad i questioned them that washer looks helpful. Could not find a photo of it anywhere. my stihl guy and my dealer had no reference pics. so that photo again was helpful. should be in this week and i can continue.
> 
> i also ordered oem 9462-650-1500 15mm snap rings. i want to see what they look like. they were high dollar. 1.49ea. a 12mm is only .43 each. i might go with the 090 cylinder.
> 
> the 4$ test flange arrived so i can test my pressure when that time comes.
> 
> View attachment 598697


Where are you getting the 090 cylinder kit from? What is the 15mm snap ring for?

Have you found out more about the timing adjustment on the stator plate? I put mine in the middle of the adjustment and it runs good. This has to have an impact on the ignition timing - clockwise adjustment makes the spark sooner, CCW delays the spark.


----------



## Bedford T

Looks like definitivedave got the oem circlips, they look easy to snap in, be great if they all were made like that.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-Sti...961400?hash=item4b2279e678:g:JSUAAOSwQTNZqLQ5


----------



## Bedford T

tbohn said:


> Where are you getting the 090 cylinder kit from? What is the 15mm snap ring for?
> 
> Have you found out more about the timing adjustment on the stator plate? I put mine in the middle of the adjustment and it runs good. This has to have an impact on the ignition timing - clockwise adjustment makes the spark sooner, CCW delays the spark.



the snap ring is for the wrist pin, the part said snap ring rather than circlip, i just posted a ebay listing that show the picture. i like the way its made. I was just shopping for the cylinder, dave had them for 85$ but it looks like he is still out. you can find his listing on google, OOS. i was going to go with his, he likely had a bunch made and they make you wait and them put them on a slow boat so you get to wait again.

maybe @davhul can help us find an answer to the question on the stator plate. I would think the updated circuity would handle the timing not the position of the plate. i will reread the manual in the morning and see what it says, it might predate the updated setup. I am still waiting on my stihl order so i have not closed that up. having an 090 would be nice. no meteor. not sure what an oem cylinder would cost from dealer. i think daves would be best buy with those clips we would be set. i will check fitment the second i getem and report back on it.

huztl out
arbortec out

the flywheel has 4 magnets not two


----------



## steve easy

1400nzd for stihl p/c kit for 090. I broke the case on this saw a few years back. 
Stihl couldn't supply new case so I went with new West case. Sat in shed for ages until I found hultz parts, going to put it back on the Alaskan mill and see if it holds up.


----------



## Bedford T

steve easy said:


> 1400nzd for stihl p/c kit for 090. I broke the case on this saw a few years back.
> Stihl couldn't supply new case so I went with new West case. Sat in shed for ages until I found hultz parts, going to put it back on the Alaskan mill and see if it holds up. View attachment 600013


Nice saw. It should hold up fine.

Does yours have points?

If not does the position of the stator plate effect timing on your model.


----------



## steve easy

Bedford T said:


> Nice saw. It should hold up fine.
> 
> Does yours have points?
> 
> If not does the position of the stator plate effect timing on your model.



No points, I have three 090's that i use none have points. My service manual has a page on how to set timing for points if you want it. I just put the stator plate back how I found it.


----------



## davhul

I don't have one to look at but if your moving the coil with the stator plate then you can advance and retard timing some. I tend to like more timing on a non milling saw. But if you go to far then you'll hear it miss and skip in the cut. It takes a good bit of movement of the coil to change the timing several degrees. 
Most do it at the fly key on the 660 and other models. This is about 8° on a 064. That would be a lot of movement at the coil.


----------



## Bedford T

davhul said:


> I don't have one to look at but if your moving the coil with the stator plate then you can advance and retard timing some. I tend to like more timing on a non milling saw. But if you go to far then you'll hear it miss and skip in the cut. It takes a good bit of movement of the coil to change the timing several degrees.
> Most do it at the fly key on the 660 and other models. This is about 8° on a 064. That would be a lot of movement at the coil.


Here is a view. Two screw holes along out edge with about 10mm movement. There is a #1 on the black edge of one of the magnets


----------



## Bedford T

Interestingly enough Google showed me a post here and the guy said he mounted it straight in and it runs great.

So that is two votes.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-070-no-spark.215085/


----------



## davhul

I would say that adjusts the coil gap. Back and forth movement. 
If it's rotated then one leg would get farther away than the other. Not good. What you think?


----------



## davhul




----------



## Bedford T

I defer to your expertise. I will say those documents are for the points set up. Page 43 shows the setup in relationship to the points contact. The position of the #1 printed on flywheel looks like it corresponds to the double arrows.


----------



## davhul

Bedford T said:


> Here is a view. Two screw holes along out edge with about 10mm movement. There is a #1 on the black edge of one of the magnets



I'm no expert on these and rarely see a saw with points anymore. Just looking at it it looks like gap adjustment. 
If you move it all the way down in the slot will the flywheel drag on the coil?


----------



## davhul

Or that adjustment was for the points and isn't relevant anymore. 
The timing use to be advanced and retarded by dwell time of the points.


----------



## Bedford T

It's still a shame that they did not document those changes. Remember my contention is not based on experience. I could not set the points if I had to, well maybe after much trying. 

So a lack of experience and a lack of documentation has me guessing that is correct.


----------



## tbohn

Rotating the ignition module sure looks like it would give you a few degrees of timing adjustment. Rotating it clockwise would have to advance the timing. I set mine in the middle of the adjustment and it runs good. Maybe when I get a chance in wood I will see what adjusting it will do. The timing can be adjusted by removing the cooling fin to access the slots in the flywheel. I am a little afraid of advancing it too much and have it fire too early during a slow rotation startup.


----------



## tbohn

I built a second 070 kit and had fuel difficulties when trying to start it. It thought I had a leak somewhere but after checking it several times I eliminated that as a consideration. I finally decided to take off the cylinder and look at the impulse line. The impulse hole is located on the base of the cylinder and I found it was almost completely covered by the cylinder gasket. It would idle just fine but would die out at higher speed after a second or two. It also had a delay in returning to idle - just like an air leak. I could keep it running by pulling the choke at higher speed.

It looks like the impulse hole was not drilled in the correct location. I used a Dremel to elongate the hole and I notched the gasket a little. It runs great now. If you built this kit you should put the base gasket of the cylinder to see if the impulse hole is blocked.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

I ordered awhile back or maybe 10 or 11 months ago and they gave me free shipping. I really like the saw and have had few problems, but they were worked out. So I thought they might not be available next year here goes. It looks like shipping will be $300 to $400. It has happened a few times from Huztle that the shipping was way more than the item. Has anybody bought lately? Thanks


----------



## OTAlucard

Ted Jenkins said:


> I ordered awhile back or maybe 10 or 11 months ago and they gave me free shipping. I really like the saw and have had few problems, but they were worked out. So I thought they might not be available next year here goes. It looks like shipping will be $300 to $400. It has happened a few times from Huztle that the shipping was way more than the item. Has anybody bought lately? Thanks


What were the problems ? !!!!


----------



## Ted Jenkins

OTAlucard said:


> What were the problems ? !!!!



The compression release was loose, the pumper part of the carburetor had a wrinkled gasket, the oil tank leaked when sitting, the clutch kept coming loose. They did not keep me from operating just slowed me down for awhile. As I was going through the thing I assumed that everything was in order, but needed a little TLC. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

tbohn said:


> It looks like the impulse hole was not drilled in the correct location. I used a Dremel to elongate the hole and I notched the gasket a little. It runs great now. If you built this kit you should put the base gasket of the cylinder to see if the impulse hole is blocked.



Good find, I have been busy finishing a build on the ms660 and posting videos while I was waiting on my felt gasket. I looked at my cylinder and noticed that the hole was covered more with one side of the gasket than the other. So by flipping the gasket the hole was larger. But to be safe I think dirko should be used to anchor the gasket in place on the cylinder. Now you likely still should drill the hole out on the cylinder hole ever so little, towards the neck, just in case. Dremels are an important tool.


----------



## Bedford T

I got access to the ipls that stihl uses currently and am attaching two that I submitted to Farmertec. They kept wanting to get the leather sealing rings mixed up with the felt gasket because of a naming problem and then they wanted proof which i think thrilled them when i quickly provided it and again wanted to think leather until i provided the second screenshot and that kinda sewed it up. So I might be on their sh*tlist now.

So to sum this up if you try and buy one you will get it, but there is a wait right now, guess they are cutting new ones. But, I did find one that husky had some and snapped it up. Its brown not white like a stihl was. I wanted my saw complete for piece of mind.


----------



## Bedford T

Bummer for me, I asked them how to buy more rings.







Using what Tbohn shared and have my cylinder ready for a future install.


----------



## Bedford T

I am not waiting on rings, i have some coming should ship out monday and be here by weeks end. that ring just pulled apart like white bread, the second ring allowed me to pull on it and it got installed.

I just noticed something they have very little showing on the website for the 070. They need to get the parts posted so we don't have to ask and hope. I got worried when i could not find the 10x1 left hand threaded nut that you put on the clutch side crank stem. I just could not find it. So I drove to the areas largest old timey hardware store its like two stories and 4 city blocks in hopes of finding one and they had one but it was coarse threads, not what is needed. I took the case in with me and the stihl tech questioned me on how my saw was so clean. Thats code for fake, lol . i let it lie and he came back at me and i told him it was aftermarket and he so Oh! He wanted to touch it, i know he did, he never had touched one. They called ever dealer in a 70 mile radius for me (told you old timey, actual customer service) and of course no one had it. so i am telling you this charming story to let you know that you need to be on top of it.

I got back home and looked one more time and it was standing up on the blind side of the small box i put everything in. it comes packaged by itself and its silver not black like the ones we often use. so i decided to get some rings right now and move on to ensure i can get the kit completed.

i wish i would have made a packing list for each saw and then have done build the videos. we buy the kits and the day we get them we check off whats there and whatever is not, we get to having it sent right away rather than later finding something missing and having them, then they tell you they don't understand send them a drawing of where it goes or send them a picture and then they can't see it. lol. if you run into something like that you can take a screenshot of an ipl and sent it off.


----------



## Bedford T

Here is the build step for the flywheel


----------



## OTAlucard

Ha that's funny about the nut. I broke mine and ordered two heavy duty ones from the country called Greece


----------



## Bedford T

I noticed I made a mistake and went back and fixed the clutch video...not on the clutch but the bar studs. so I edited the video only to remove the bar studs, the video is the same otherwise. The issue was on the 070/090 the inter-plate goes under the bar studs. After the panic set in trying to figure out a way to remove them, they were tight and I used loctite, I remembered my trusty heat gun and warmed up one at a time and they removed easily. So I will repost that step next. which will be placing the chain adjuster and the inter-plate and then the studs.

I was reading the manual and that jumped off the page and gave me notice.


----------



## Bedford T

Here is the bar stud area assembly


----------



## Bedford T

Here is a look at the oem circlips.


----------



## SAAB

This is awesome. I want to build one of these kits for myself.


----------



## Bedford T

Dawg, these larger rings are so brittle. I was sweating the second out of the second set, but it did not break.


----------



## Bedford T

I changed my mind on the oem circlips and here is why and more on the rings. Cylinder is coming up next.


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> Dawg, these larger rings are so brittle. I was sweating the second out of the second set, but it did not break.


I found it easiest to install the lower ring by sliding it on from the bottom of the piston.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

That's a great idea but it would not have made a difference today. It was not jumping over the ring. I don't have a good answer as to the reason.

Second set


----------



## Bedford T

tbohn said:


> I found it easiest to install the lower ring by sliding it on from the bottom of the piston.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


So you have put together 3-4 so far? How many if any failures have you had. maybe it's all me. I have not ever broken one until now. That's why I suspected that it was because it was larger rather than aftermarket. I am not anxious to lay blame just prepare kit builders. They are not expensive, waits are very undesirable


----------



## tbohn

Bedford T said:


> So you have put together 3-4 so far? How many if any failures have you had. maybe it's all me. I have not ever broken one until now. That's why I suspected that it was because it was larger rather than aftermarket. I am not anxious to lay blame just prepare kit builders. They are not expensive, waits are very undesirable


I have built two of the 070 but I have broken rings in the past. I struggled in the past getting the lower ring installed when installing from the top of the piston.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

Piston, circlip and cylinder assembly


----------



## Bedford T

Muffler, I have a sealing strip in place and later found I was missing the spacers for the carb flange for a pressure test so I off camera installed the muffler gasket and will come back around another time


----------



## Bedford T

carb


----------



## Bedford T

grip, support


----------



## Bedford T

stop switch, throttle linkage

Looks like the next step will be the last. So generally they forgot the 4- 6mx25 for the cylinder install and the 4- 5mx18 for the recoil starter. Should that happen to you, you can use hexhead screws from your hardware store. The starter recoil was why there was less movement when i moved it the flex came back so i was wrong in my guess, was not in place correctly.


----------



## Bedford T

the 5 screws that hold the trigger handle on should be black oxide or a much stronger metal than the 4 that are not. The weight of the saw is supported by those fasteners. I am going to my hardware store this morning and see what I can find. I have the screw posed on top of the cylinder


----------



## Bedford T

Putting the top, filter in place


----------



## Bedford T

Final step, chain guard and last words. the 070 build is complete


----------



## Bedford T

This is getting old. next time they screw me over a part I am going to send them a picture and a screenshot of the ipl and open a case right that second. after getting a few of those they will quit this nonsense game. we dont need a to speak the same language when you a have a picture and a drawing. they sent what you see after getting the correct drawing and some how got confused. the parts are on opposite sides of the saw. just plain dishonest. i will open a case everytime here forward until they quit. i encourage you to do the same. this is not a game. being honest is something we need more of. i told them the part was made of felt. that is a word in china. the part is in the "complete kit"


----------



## Bedford T

I got the part from Stihl today. Took around 5 weeks. They must be stocked now. That's 6mm+ thick.


----------



## Solo Rex

Hello.
New here, and my first post, tho i have been reading this thread for some time.
I have a question. I ordered this kit a few months ago, but due to work i have had no time to build until this weekend.
I have found there is quite a few parts missing. The felt ring in the post above for example, and almost all of the rubber parts. Can i email huztl with purchase number and a list of the missing parts?
Im sorry for my english, i hope you can understand me.

Regards from Sweden!
Johan


----------



## Bedford T

Solo Rex said:


> Hello.
> New here, and my first post, tho i have been reading this thread for some time.
> I have a question. I ordered this kit a few months ago, but due to work i have had no time to build until this weekend.
> I have found there is quite a few parts missing. The felt ring in the post above for example, and almost all of the rubber parts. Can i email huztl with purchase number and a list of the missing parts?
> Im sorry for my english, i hope you can understand me.
> 
> Regards from Sweden!
> Johan


Yes message them on their website. www.huztl.net


----------



## Solo Rex

Thank you, i will do that!


----------



## gary courtney

the 070 copy that I bought is not worth the time it took to fill it up. bogs down continually.


----------



## Bedford T

gary courtney said:


> the 070 copy that I bought is not worth the time it took to fill it up. bogs down continually.


It's requires tuning


----------



## OTAlucard

gary courtney said:


> the 070 copy that I bought is not worth the time it took to fill it up. bogs down continually.


yeah mine did also It took me a good 45 mins of tuning and making cuts with it and tuning it some more before I Got the settings right where I wanted them 

Not only that The clutch nut is garbage So the clutch slips and the whole saw bogs down I Had to order a heavy duty one from Greece.


----------



## Solo Rex

I am still in the process of assembling mine, but i was checking squish an timing numbers the other day, and both seems to be quite wrong.
Squish is at least 1 mm, or 1/25 of an inch, an that is without a base gasket!
Intake and exhaust ports is a bit of, but shuold not be a problem with some dremel work.
Transfer ports on the other hand is still partially closed with at least 2 mm, or 2/25 inch, at bdc.
Still have to properly measure the numbers, but it does not seem very promising.
Is there anyone here who have had the same issue?

I have ordered a 66mm cylinder kit from Sägenspezi, will be intresting to see how the numbers is on that one. 

Johan


----------



## Bedford T

Solo Rex said:


> I am still in the process of assembling mine, but i was checking squish an timing numbers the other day, and both seems to be quite wrong.
> Squish is at least 1 mm, or 1/25 of an inch, an that is without a base gasket!
> Intake and exhaust ports is a bit of, but shuold not be a problem with some dremel work.
> Transfer ports on the other hand is still partially closed with at least 2 mm, or 2/25 inch, at bdc.
> Still have to properly measure the numbers, but it does not seem very promising.
> Is there anyone here who have had the same issue?
> 
> I have ordered a 66mm cylinder kit from Sägenspezi, will be intresting to see how the numbers is on that one.
> 
> Johan


I did not check mine


----------



## Bedford T

Today while shopping I noticed www.huztl.net had a option to check the shipping on the product page. That will come in handy to ballpark big stuff.


----------



## JohnsonD

I just ordered one of these 070 kits, it's hung up in guzhou on some technicality, hopefully it gets here soon. Just wondering how many here have put the 66mm 090 cylinder on their huztl kit, and how it is working out. I'm thinking of skipping right to the 090 since that is what I really want anyway.


----------



## Bedford T

JohnsonD said:


> I just ordered one of these 070 kits, it's hung up in guzhou on some technicality, hopefully it gets here soon. Just wondering how many here have put the 66mm 090 cylinder on their huztl kit, and how it is working out. I'm thinking of skipping right to the 090 since that is what I really want anyway.


I have been waiting on huztl to restock the 090 cylinder. It's a no brainer for me. It's been taking about 5-6 days for me added to the normal 8-10 days when they inspect mine lately. Keep us posted.


----------



## JohnsonD

Thanks. I didn't know if the order size was the shipping delay problem. I ordered the 070 with a 36" bar/chain, and also two of the ms180s for my two boys for Christmas, both with 14" bar/chains. It has got to be a heavy package. My kids are too young to operate a saw by themselves, but no better way to learn about how power equipment works then to put a kit together themselves. It sure beats Legos.


----------



## Bedford T

JohnsonD said:


> Thanks. I didn't know if the order size was the shipping delay problem. I ordered the 070 with a 36" bar/chain, and also two of the ms180s for my two boys for Christmas, both with 14" bar/chains. It has got to be a heavy package. My kids are too young to operate a saw by themselves, but no better way to learn about how power equipment works then to put a kit together themselves. It sure beats Legos.


That is exactly the scenario that I presented to the Chinese when I was urging them to sell the kits here. That will be a great way to spend time with your boys and I promise it will be a great teaching moment. It was for me. 

Your package has to clear customs twice. Theirs and ours. You know you can get a manual and ipl in the stickey beg thread for both of the saws if you have not already.


----------



## JohnsonD

Yeah, somebody was kind enough to send me the 070 IPL and manual, I still need to ask for the ms180. I'm hearing lots of good reviews for the kits, if the ones I ordered come out good I'll be buying more for both myself and my kids. I've been watching the 090 cylinders every day, I have a feeling when they get some in stock they will sell fast.


----------



## Bedford T

JohnsonD said:


> Yeah, somebody was kind enough to send me the 070 IPL and manual, I still need to ask for the ms180. I'm hearing lots of good reviews for the kits, if the ones I ordered come out good I'll be buying more for both myself and my kids. I've been watching the 090 cylinders every day, I have a feeling when they get some in stock they will sell fast.


https://www.arboristsite.com/community/index.php?threads/68615/

Ask here
Make sure the 070 manual you have has at least 80 pages. There is one that has much fewer.


----------



## Bedford T

One more suggestion on the smaller kits the plastic is not finished as well as the larger saws. You might want to pick up some suitable sandpaper so you can prepare those parts for assembly. Even a real one is the same,


----------



## JohnsonD

Thanks for the hint, I figured there would probably be some flashing to clean off, no big deal. One of the things I was wondering about with the 090 cylinder kit is the weight of the Piston. If it us significantly heavier than the 070, it would put the engine out of balance. Any idea if this is a problem?


----------



## Bedford T

JohnsonD said:


> Thanks for the hint, I figured there would probably be some flashing to clean off, no big deal. One of the things I was wondering about with the 090 cylinder kit is the weight of the Piston. If it us significantly heavier than the 070, it would put the engine out of balance. Any idea if this is a problem?


The crank is the same on both saws. The saws are exactly the same unless you are looking at the gear driven 090. So the 090 cylinder kit is not a drag on the 070. It's ready to go.


----------



## cre73

I have been wanting to build the 070 kit but I missed the sale in November. Waiting for the price to come back down or maybe someone stateside gets some in and I order from them.


----------



## Solo Rex

Since im home at the moment i checked the weight of the pistons.
070 167 grams
090 234 grams
Both aftermarket pistons, incl rings and wristpin.
Quite a significant differans, but it remains to see witch one best balances the crank.
The construction of the transfers is very different, but i cant put pictures in here to show. Google is your friend!


----------



## JohnsonD

Interesting, that is a huge difference. I doubt it is much of a problem in terms of longevity, but if a guy were to balance the crank specific to the Piston I bet there would be little vibration in the saw during use. Just curious, were both of those pistons from the same manufacturer?


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Vibration should not be too big of an issue regardless of the piston that is being used. Since the RPM is low I would not expect a large difference for the 070 vs the 090. OEM Stihl does the same with their older models. I have a 075 and 076 that I plan to put in my armory now that I have been using my 070 with joy. It took a couple of days of trial and error to be completely satisfied with my Huztl. Was thinking about ordering another 070 just to have so as not to need a backup. Thanks


----------



## Solo Rex

The 070 piston is farmertech, the 090 is from Sägenspezi in germany, so i dont know about the manufacturer.
If unbalance is a problem, i will remove some material from the 090 piston, it is a bit overbuilt i think.


----------



## JohnsonD

I took a closer look at the farmertec 58mm and 66mm pictures, the 66mm appears to have a little less metal on it then the 58. I also looked at the picture of the Sägenspezi, I'm not sure if the picture is actually of the 66mm, it looks an awful lot like the farmertec 58mm Piston, regardless, it appears to have more metal on it then the farmertec. I wish huztl would get some of the 66mm kits in stock so I could take a closer look at it.


----------



## Bedford T

I cranked up my saw today and it is running wide open..almost. blipping the trigger does nothing. Pulling the choke on slows it down. Not the kinda saw you can let go of to adjust. I had the top off earlier to look at the hose. I want to put some different hose on it. My linkages were free and the choke operated well. nothing is hung up, got a 36" bar on it and if the nose was to make contact when it was running serious damage would be done to all near it.

Anyone got any ideas to get my idle back? No adjustments have been made to it and I don't see how anything could have gotten out of adjustment. I am certain me removing the top did nothing.


----------



## JohnsonD

Something gas to be holding the butterfly open, have you tried to run it with the lid off? Maybe the cover is doing something.


----------



## Arrowhead

Try replacing all parts with oem.


----------



## Bedford T

JohnsonD said:


> Something gas to be holding the butterfly open, have you tried to run it with the lid off? Maybe the cover is doing something.


No but that's a smart answer. I will try it next time someone is here with me. I need to be careful it does not move.


----------



## TheRuss

Hey guys, ive been reading these forums for a while now. Im definitely sold on building one (or more) of these saws off of huztl. I'm getting into Milling my own slabs on my granberg, been using an 044. Mainly cherry wood. I need something with some more power & something that can support a larger bar and chain. But those are hard to come by at a great price.

Im between the 066 kit and the 070/090 kit on huztl. So ive been reading this and the 160 page 066 thread. Do any of you guys have a recommendation/opinion after having built and used these saws which would be better to start with, and hold up in a milling application? I dont have a ton of small engine experience, but i can and want to learn. Very much looking forward to the build, im sure i'll learn a ton.


----------



## psuiewalsh

One advantage of the 066 is you can refill fluids while the mill is in position.


----------



## tombukt2

so i guess an 090 no gear is still avail from stihl? if so id guess around 1400 bux? so the copy im seeing on e bay for just under 500 070.. I repair n Build things for a living . Ive Never Seen a Powerhead that was seriously complicated . like my daughter could make. I think the Asian copies wont be Huge problems As they do quite good work. The problem Asia has HAD is a Metallurgy issue Shiet castings Crappy Metal alloys to begin with horrible casting practices. But all this is Changing weekly over they're. theyre getting it correct. so if the copy excellent design and get the pot metal correct . could easily be winner. ive no issues this 090 070 stuff is ancient . long paid stihl . and the stihl is hard to find has to be ordered blah blah blah.. in a 6 cube saw what ya gat maybe two choices in your part of world . if that..


----------



## cre73

Ordered my kit from HLsupply today, they had an end of year sale and I chose free shipping. Pretty happy with the price now all I have to do is build it when it gets here and hope I am not missing parts. I not a very patient person.


----------



## Bigfoot907

Started the Kit a few days ago, waiting on felt washer, 28" wide tip ordered from baileys yesterday.


----------



## tombukt2

Bedford T said:


> I cranked up my saw today and it is running wide open..almost. blipping the trigger does nothing. Pulling the choke on slows it down. Not the kinda saw you can let go of to adjust. I had the top off earlier to look at the hose. I want to put some different hose on it. My linkages were free and the choke operated well. nothing is hung up, got a 36" bar on it and if the nose was to make contact when it was running serious damage would be done to all near it.
> 
> Anyone got any ideas to get my idle back? No adjustments have been made to it and I don't see how anything could have gotten out of adjustment. I am certain me removing the top did nothing.


I use a squeeze clamp on handle to free a hand whilst longer bar and or helper handles installed unless clamped handle breaks im good. and saws on wooden or stainless table . i think it would just slide off stainless table nothing to bite into. saw hits floor and breaks case maybe.


----------



## TheTone

Bedford T said:


> I cranked up my saw today and it is running wide open..almost. blipping the trigger does nothing. Pulling the choke on slows it down. Not the kinda saw you can let go of to adjust. I had the top off earlier to look at the hose. I want to put some different hose on it. My linkages were free and the choke operated well. nothing is hung up, got a 36" bar on it and if the nose was to make contact when it was running serious damage would be done to all near it.
> 
> Anyone got any ideas to get my idle back? No adjustments have been made to it and I don't see how anything could have gotten out of adjustment. I am certain me removing the top did nothing.



How about doing the hose swaps and then taking off the bar and chain. Since you're just trying to get your idle back, you could roughly check your progress without endangering yourself while you go through more checks and diagnostics. When you find the problem and fix it, and have a saw that won't run away with you, put the bar and chain back on for adjusting both idle and max rpm.


----------



## Bedford T

TheTone said:


> How about doing the hose swaps and then taking off the bar and chain. Since you're just trying to get your idle back, you could roughly check your progress without endangering yourself while you go through more checks and diagnostics. When you find the problem and fix it, and have a saw that won't run away with you, put the bar and chain back on for adjusting both idle and max rpm.


I am just back from holiday. Those are great suggestions. I got a new oem carb. I am putting them on everything now. There is 6" of snow on the ground between me and my work area. The temperature has been the lowest in memory and with the holidays i have yet to get to it. Looking forward to it.


----------



## Eldon McNamara

I put the 090 kit on my 070 bottom then I bored the 090 cylinder to 70mm and plated by u.s. chrome I had wiseco pistons made I put a bigger hl and took the govener off the saw ported the intake to match the saw it is a animal it beats my 3120 and 088 woods port saw


----------



## Bedford T

Eldon McNamara said:


> I put the 090 kit on my 070 bottom then I bored the 090 cylinder to 70mm and plated by u.s. chrome I had wiseco pistons made I put a bigger hl and took the govener off the saw ported the intake to match the saw it is a animal it beats my 3120 and 088 woods port saw


Dang!


----------



## olyman

Eldon McNamara said:


> I put the 090 kit on my 070 bottom then I bored the 090 cylinder to 70mm and plated by u.s. chrome I had wiseco pistons made I put a bigger hl and took the govener off the saw ported the intake to match the saw it is a animal it beats my 3120 and 088 woods port saw


max rpm's?????


----------



## Eldon McNamara

I never checked it I no it was turning high thou this spring I'll check it


----------



## Unionvillecountryboy

Eldon McNamara said:


> I put the 090 kit on my 070 bottom then I bored the 090 cylinder to 70mm and plated by u.s. chrome I had wiseco pistons made I put a bigger hl and took the govener off the saw ported the intake to match the saw it is a animal it beats my 3120 and 088 woods port saw



Build thread/pics


----------



## cre73

Getting close to completing my saw and have a couple questions. First can I complete a pressure check without removing the carb? I thought about putting my blockoff plate where the 90 is at carb inlet. Will that work? Also Bedford which video shows how to put the governor together. All the ones I have watched it is already installed. Lastly, while looking for information on how to install the governor I ran into a few thread regarding not using it and tune like normal to about 8K rpm? Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

cre73 said:


> Getting close to completing my saw and have a couple questions. First can I complete a pressure check without removing the carb? I thought about putting my blockoff plate where the 90 is at carb inlet. Will that work? Also Bedford which video shows how to put the governor together. All the ones I have watched it is already installed. Lastly, while looking for information on how to install the governor I ran into a few thread regarding not using it and tune like normal to about 8K rpm? Thanks


I definitely show installing the governor. You disconnect it, tune it to 12000 and then reconnect it and check again it should be correct. Have you looked at the manual? It will have the part numbers for the two plates you need and instructions on performing the test. Ask in the beg manual thread. It's 80 pages of love. The nuts are easier to put on the carb stubs if you flip the saw in your lap and let gravity help you center the nut to start it.

I started to put the new carb on mine today but got sidetracked with my 380. I am getting closer to doing it. Those nuts are hard to start

You want some room when you are putting the governor together you have to drive that piece in the case. I show it all. I do not recall which one. I did them in order. Stop and don't go to far. I am kinda busy or I would stop and look for you. Got to be in at least the description under the video. Look on a desktop, easiest way to drill down.

3rd notch should be your starting point


----------



## gnunou

Unionvillecountryboy said:


> Build thread/pics



I'd double down on that.


----------



## Bedford T

No need to wait. There is no difference in the available video steps. The parts are different in size and that's the only difference. They attach excatly the same. You would need to contact the supplier and order the parts to the specs you want. Installing them are the same. that's what's so great about the 070 it becomes a 090 by just changing out the cylinder kit that installs excatly the same. If you can put the 070 cylinder on you can put the 090 without further training.


----------



## TreeJoe

I saw you mention changing out the carburetor, have you done that yet? will you video it? I had 30 minutes I popped in. Will keep an eye out on youtube if you can. thank you


----------



## Eldon McNamara

this is the 70mm big bore I built with a lightning cover I can use on it I just woods ported it and it pulls a 12 tooth 3/8 easily


----------



## Eldon McNamara

the piston to the far right is the 70mm in this saw


----------



## Bedford T

TreeJoe said:


> I saw you mention changing out the carburetor, have you done that yet? will you video it? I had 30 minutes I popped in. Will keep an eye out on youtube if you can. thank you


I did it this afternoon after months of promises. Only thing I had left outstanding.

The screw that holds the hanger for the throttle linkage did not want to turn in past maybe 4 turns out of 8. I used a 3/16 lock washer behind it and it's works. Also I had to order the fuel line to find any that would give me a tight fit, they had yellow line that was close but not close enough. So I can not tune it for maybe a week to 10 days. Another thing that looks frightening is how close the nuts are on the studs. The plate on the oem carb is 2-3mm thinner so it was much easier to re-attach the nuts. Still had to turn it upside down to start them...old fingers. If you have to do it, it's no big deal. My video will be up by sometime tomorrow. Look forward to some good weather where I can cuts some slabs to make some benches.

FYI
There are two plastic bushings, very small c clip, two linkages you can't lose.


----------



## Bedford T

Eldon McNamara said:


> View attachment 631859
> the piston to the far right is the 70mm in this saw


Sweet, What is to it's left?


----------



## Eldon McNamara

Left to right 346 wiseco 55mm 272 piston that makes is 81cc 62mm 3120/084/088 piston I got a 60mm 68mm piston not shown and a 54mm 56mm 066 piston not shown.


----------



## Bedford T

I finished the upgrade and there was two technical issues, both came out ok. I should not have been surprised, but was.


----------



## Bedford T

What would you guys say if a fella told you could buy an 070 with a one year warranty that includes shipping on the repairs for 562$


----------



## Mac&Homelite

Oem or AM 070?


----------



## Bedford T

Mac&Homelite said:


> Oem or AM 070?


An oem no way.


----------



## Bedford T

The guy wrote me back. He said return shipping was included. I guess if he gives you his address so if he reneges so you can find him or if he disappears the third time you ask for service. People are rough with their saws. Strap that to a mill and you got a time bomb.

After two weeks of thinking about this, sounds like a great idea and the farmertec saw is tuff. I would like to believe it... I saw it on ebay


----------



## Bedford T

cre73 said:


> Getting close to completing my saw and have a couple questions. First can I complete a pressure check without removing the carb? I thought about putting my blockoff plate where the 90 is at carb inlet. Will that work? Also Bedford which video shows how to put the governor together. All the ones I have watched it is already installed. Lastly, while looking for information on how to install the governor I ran into a few thread regarding not using it and tune like normal to about 8K rpm? Thanks



I explain in the more video info section and in the video itself.


----------



## Boomer 87

Well I thought I'd post my experiences so far with my 070. I bought a complete unit when they first came out before they offered as a kit. I've had two issues with mine. First the clutch came loose right off the bat, no big deal ordered a new one bc it buggered up the forcing cone, greased the bearing good and put a thin layer of loctite on it then torqued to specs . Haven't had any issue since.

Second thing that happen was even less issue, the throttle lock came loose and fell out. But the saw starts so good I may not even bother replacing it. 

Untill yesterday I'd had just been cutting big firewood rounds with the 36" bar. But yesterday I switched out my 084 off my 56" granberg for the 070, 60"bar full comp full chisel chain. I milled a fresh cut sistered elm log non stop all day, basically only giving it a break too refuel and oil, and move my slabbed wood. All in all I made 6 slabs from 9'-11' long. Went through almost two gallons of fuel.

I was impressed enough the 070 may have a permanent home on that mill, and when I sell all the slabs it made I may treat him to an 090 topend and 6 puck clutch.


----------



## Bedford T

Boomer 87 said:


> Well I thought I'd post my experiences so far with my 070. I bought a complete unit when they first came out before they offered as a kit. I've had two issues with mine. First the clutch came loose right off the bat, no big deal ordered a new one bc it buggered up the forcing cone, greased the bearing good and put a thin layer of loctite on it then torqued to specs . Haven't had any issue since.
> 
> Second thing that happen was even less issue, the throttle lock came loose and fell out. But the saw starts so good I may not even bother replacing it.
> 
> Untill yesterday I'd had just been cutting big firewood rounds with the 36" bar. But yesterday I switched out my 084 off my 56" granberg for the 070, 60"bar full comp full chisel chain. I milled a fresh cut sistered elm log non stop all day, basically only giving it a break too refuel and oil, and move my slabbed wood. All in all I made 6 slabs from 9'-11' long. Went through almost two gallons of fuel.
> 
> I was impressed enough the 070 may have a permanent home on that mill, and when I sell all the slabs it made I may treat him to an 090 topend and 6 puck clutch.


Good to hear from you. My throttle lock is not working any more after I changed the carb. I am not worried. 

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## golddredgergold

Well I have given in and ordered an 070 on the 20% off deal. Now the wait begins or should I say torture!


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Well I have given in and ordered an 070 on the 20% off deal. Now the wait begins or should I say torture!


Waiting is pure torture. It will be worth it. It much bigger than your 660. Over next couple of days I need to order a decomp. It will break at least your fingers without one that works reliably mine did until it didn't. It's stout.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> Waiting is pure torture. It will be worth it. It much bigger than your 660. Over next couple of days I need to order a decomp. It will break at least your fingers without one that works reliably mine did until it didn't. It's stout.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com





I can't wait
Pretty happy with my 660. So ready for this 070. I have a new husqvarna compression release I will put in it.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

I have had several bigger bore saws for several years, but pretty much forgot about them. A little over a year ago bought a 070. Had a few problems working all the issues out, but now it is working very well. Pulling a decent 404 chain is amazing. I cut two cords of green Oak and some Fir with out touching the chain. A slower chain speed will do that. At this time I have a 070 075 076 and want some more. Using a saw with more than 85 CC cuts way different than a lighter saw. Now have to decide if I want more kits or another 070. A 660 is lighter more powerful and has faster chain speed. I do not like getting up in the morning and spend time on a saw that might not last the entire day or week. Thanks


----------



## golddredgergold

Hey fellas, on average how long has it been taking for hutzl to process the order and ship? I know it will take awhile once they ship just curious how long before they get it out the door. Status is just "paid"


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Hey fellas, on average how long has it been taking for hutzl to process the order and ship? I know it will take awhile once they ship just curious how long before they get it out the door. Status is just "paid"


3-4 days now that they are shipping from New Jersey

so maybe as late as tuesday if it was picked up today


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> 3-4 days now that they are shipping from New Jersey
> 
> so maybe as late as tuesday if it was picked up today


Wow really! Very interesting. If it gets here that fast I will be thrilled! Wonder why they are still charging us the super high shipping if its already here?


----------



## Bedford T

I am not speaking for them. But in business the cost does not disappear. Now they have the freight forwarder cost. I guess they could raise the cost of the saw or leave it as a shipping cost as it is now. That would be my take and we could be hammered both ways

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Lol yes! You would think sending a container full of kits would be much cheaper than individual packages. But better for them they get more money by saving and we get it faster.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Lol yes! You would think sending a container full of kits would be much cheaper than individual packages. But better for them they get more money by saving and we get it faster.


I have learned international shipping goes by weight so that does not cover volume, unless you own a ship or plane

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bedford T said:


> Waiting is pure torture. It will be worth it. It much bigger than your 660. Over next couple of days I need to order a decomp. It will break at least your fingers without one that works reliably mine did until it didn't. It's stout.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com



The Husky decomp will not work in the 070. When I ordered some they were completely a different style. I considered making a spark plug insert to use Husky. I searched for a decomp and found some very old style ones. The old Stihl ones were $125 so I ordered a couple but they were back ordered. I ended up with a modified original to work. It has worked pretty well. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

Ted Jenkins said:


> The Husky decomp will not work in the 070. When I ordered some they were completely a different style. I considered making a spark plug insert to use Husky. I searched for a decomp and found some very old style ones. The old Stihl ones were $125 so I ordered a couple but they were back ordered. I ended up with a modified original to work. It has worked pretty well. Thanks


I ordered this one. I did not remove the installed one to look at it. This is the one in the current ipl

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Rarity-STIHL...rentrq:317c38081630abc5a75c3d5ffffe4375|iid:1

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## CsClimbr

Anyone have any coupon codes for HLSupply to add to an order? Opting for the 440 (out of stock at the moment) and 660 kit. Coupon code would be sweet if I’m gonna drop 5-700$ tonight


----------



## golddredgergold

Ted Jenkins said:


> The Husky decomp will not work in the 070. When I ordered some they were completely a different style. I considered making a spark plug insert to use Husky. I searched for a decomp and found some very old style ones. The old Stihl ones were $125 so I ordered a couple but they were back ordered. I ended up with a modified original to work. It has worked pretty well. Thanks


Thanks for the heads up on this. I will look into this now in more detail.


----------



## golddredgergold

CsClimbr said:


> Anyone have any coupon codes for HLSupply to add to an order? Opting for the 440 (out of stock at the moment) and 660 kit. Coupon code would be sweet if I’m gonna drop 5-700$ tonight


I poked around a bunch to find a code with no luck. Even asked if the had a special for buying 2 at once if they would sell me them at the sale price from the previous week. I have never gotten a single response from HL yet. That's around 4 to 5 questions via email and I called and got a message machine and said I was ready to order my 660 kit and left my Number and never got a call back. So I bought my kit off ebay and bought my second one direct from hustle.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> I poked around a bunch to find a code with no luck. Even asked if the had a special for buying 2 at once if they would sell me them at the sale price from the previous week. I have never gotten a single response from HL yet. That's around 4 to 5 questions via email and I called and got a message machine and said I was ready to order my 660 kit and left my Number and never got a call back. So I bought my kit off ebay and bought my second one direct from hustle.


On eBay you got clout. I never abuse it. It's sacred but if they don't answer questions or screw me I let them have it. It winds up costing them money. That is why they make you wait on the bigger stores to leave negs because it has such a big impact on fees.

no coupons they used to give you 10% off if you followed their ad here. Not in a long time.

Enjoy your shopping

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## CsClimbr

golddredgergold said:


> I poked around a bunch to find a code with no luck. Even asked if the had a special for buying 2 at once if they would sell me them at the sale price from the previous week. I have never gotten a single response from HL yet. That's around 4 to 5 questions via email and I called and got a message machine and said I was ready to order my 660 kit and left my Number and never got a call back. So I bought my kit off ebay and bought my second one direct from hustle.





Bedford T said:


> On eBay you got clout. I never abuse it. It's sacred but if they don't answer questions or screw me I let them have it. It winds up costing them money. That is why they make you wait on the bigger stores to leave negs because it has such a big impact on fees.
> 
> no coupons they used to give you 10% off if you followed their ad here. Not in a long time.
> 
> Enjoy your shopping
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com



So did I screw up by purchasing through HLSupply? Should I have bought off eBay or elsewhere so I’d have recourse if things went south?


----------



## Bedford T

No, i have heard nothing bad about hl. They have screwed up several of my orders but made it right in the end.

Most companies will put it right in.

You have recourse when you use a credit card, PayPal can be helpful if you follow the rules. eBay promises you will get what you order. I find people are frightened of pissing the Chinese off and do absolutely nothing about it when they get screwed

I can tell you the Chinese will lie right to your face. Generally you get what they feel like giving you. Remember they really feel they are doing you a favor


----------



## golddredgergold

No I have heard all good news from HL. But I have not had any luck with them myself just getting them to respond. Not sure why. So I went elsewhere. But most guys say they ship fast and if there is any issues they are fast to correct it. I seen one guy that got a bum cylinder right out of the box. Had pitting and holes in the bore. They had him a new one 2 days later free. Cannot beat that. From what I have read you will not get that service buying from Huztl direct. I think you did just fine buying from HL supply.


----------



## golddredgergold

Cs what kits did you end up getting?


----------



## golddredgergold

Looks like hutzl sent my 090 kit direct from China. Via SF express.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Looks like hutzl sent my 090 kit direct from China. Via SF express.


What 090 kit. Do you mean cylinder kit. Those are parts not saw kits. The saw kits are shipped from new Jersey now, parts still china. Tip, the rings are really soft or were. You might want to get some cabers. I broke two getting two on.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> What 090 kit. Do you mean cylinder kit. Those are parts not saw kits. The saw kits are shipped from new Jersey now, parts still china. Tip, the rings are really soft or were. You might want to get some cabers. I broke two getting two on.
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Nope Bedford its a full kit from hutzl site. They did not shop it from Jersey. That tracking number I gave you we thought was fed ex is SF Express. Departed China today.


----------



## golddredgergold

Ok got my screen shot of tracking.


----------



## Bedford T

Ok that's the 070 kit. So maybe the info about them shipping from here on the kits are wrong. I can tell you it happened a number of times recently. So they keep us guessing. Good info to have

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> Ok that's the 070 kit. So maybe the info about them shipping from here on the kits are wrong. I can tell you it happened a number of times recently. So they keep us guessing. Good info to have
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Yes figured you would like to know.


----------



## Bedford T

When you are kicking again your mill is going love you. What size chain did your last powerhouse use?

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

I have yet to get tracking on my decomp. I really look forward to getting that the mushrooms will eat my log up.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Been running 404. .063And its an 090 bar already. So I can just unbolt the old mac and put this on. I will do the 090 cylinder kit next week or so after some of my ebay auctions end and I get some more play funds.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bedford T said:


> I have yet to get tracking on my decomp. I really look forward to getting that the mushrooms will eat my log up. kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com



What source did you find for your valve? My only solution has been to make a insert like a spark plug insert and use the Husky type that are readily available. Thanks


----------



## golddredgergold

I think Bedford bought the same 070 090 decomp I just bought on ebay.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/323166584438


----------



## golddredgergold

So ebay seller marked that Decomp valve shipped but no tracking number. Did he do the same for you Bedford?


----------



## golddredgergold

Got my 070 kit from hutzl and my 070 Decomp from Germany yesterday! Pretty darn stoked. Dang this saw is huge! Cannot wait to get it built and milling.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Got my 070 kit from hutzl and my 070 Decomp from Germany yesterday! Pretty darn stoked. Dang this saw is huge! Cannot wait to get it built and milling.View attachment 652313
> View attachment 652314


I still don't have my decomp. Maybe it's here today

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> I still don't have my decomp. Maybe it's here today
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Yes hopefully you get it today. I am surprised mine showed before yours. Wonder if it got hung up in customs.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

golddredgergold said:


> Got my 070 kit from hutzl and my 070 Decomp from Germany yesterday! Pretty darn stoked. Dang this saw is huge! Cannot wait to get it built and milling.View attachment 652313
> View attachment 652314



Yes it is big heavy and bulky. I do not use mine for any milling, but maybe after some time it will do do some milling. For now it is supposed to cut logs and it has changed the entire process because of how effectively it has performed. Since the chain speed is much slower it can go through a whole cord with out any chain touch up. Last week I cut some fully green trees and it went through two cords with out touching up the chain at all. Am wondering what to buy buy now likely another 070 or 066. If the decomp comes apart it will destroy the entire saw quick. Do not use the enclosed circle clips. I machined a wider groove and put more heavy duty clips with a touch of brass to keep them intact. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Yes hopefully you get it today. I am surprised mine showed before yours. Wonder if it got hung up in customs.


It must have gotten held up. I hope it comes. It's gonna be too hot soon to do much. What date did you place your order?

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> It must have gotten held up. I hope it comes. It's gonna be too hot soon to do much. What date did you place your order?
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


I bought mine on May 7th. I would send a message and ask.


----------



## golddredgergold

Ted Jenkins said:


> Yes it is big heavy and bulky. I do not use mine for any milling, but maybe after some time it will do do some milling. For now it is supposed to cut logs and it has changed the entire process because of how effectively it has performed. Since the chain speed is much slower it can go through a whole cord with out any chain touch up. Last week I cut some fully green trees and it went through two cords with out touching up the chain at all. Am wondering what to buy buy now likely another 070 or 066. If the decomp comes apart it will destroy the entire saw quick. Do not use the enclosed circle clips. I machined a wider groove and put more heavy duty clips with a touch of brass to keep them intact. Thanks


The clips you are referring to.... The wrist pin clips?


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> I bought mine on May 7th. I would send a message and ask.


I have sent two. I am getting ingnored. 5/4

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> I have sent two. I am getting ingnored. 5/4
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Uuuhhhggg! I know they marked the add right after I bought that they where going to be away for awhile so questions and if you bought would be delayed. Wonder if this is why they did not get right back yet.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Uuuhhhggg! I know they marked the add right after I bought that they where going to be away for awhile so questions and if you bought would be delayed. Wonder if this is why they did not get right back yet.


I resent it. there are two messages in the history. If I don't get it I will get my money back and try again and maybe have it worked by fall. [emoji53]

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

Did you order the seals too

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Nope are the seals junk? They look good in the package. What else do I need?


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Nope are the seals junk? They look good in the package. What else do I need?


No no no. The bits that go with the decomp. Click the link in my sig

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> No no no. The bits that go with the decomp. Click the link in my sig
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Ok poking around your site. Cannot find info on bits to go with the Decomp. Is the info in the videos? Getting ready to watch those. I see info about the felt washer and line.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Ok poking around your site. Cannot find info on bits to go with the Decomp. Is the info in the videos? Getting ready to watch those. I see info about the felt washer and line.


I heard two questions. I answered one with the redirect and the bits connected with the decomp would be found on an ipl. Do you have that?

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> I heard two questions. I answered one with the redirect and the bits connected with the decomp would be found on an ipl. Do you have that?
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com




You bet just printed out the service manual and have the button ready to hit print on the IPL but had to leave home for the evening for daughter's graduation tonight. So will be able to look more when I get home. I was riding in the car while talking to you so could not get super in depth finding info.


----------



## Bedford T

Congratulations to your daughter

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Thanks!


----------



## golddredgergold

Wow sorry it lagged and triple posted


----------



## Ted Jenkins

golddredgergold said:


> The clips you are referring to.... The wrist pin clips?[/QUOT
> 
> The decomp valve is what I am referring to. I know some one that had the valve come loose and then went through the piston. Thanks


----------



## golddredgergold

Thanks. When I get home I will check out mine and get a picture for you. My valve has a different top on it than your picture.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Thanks. When I get home I will check out mine and get a picture for you. My valve has a different top on it than your picture.


That's what I am saying. There are more parts needed for us to use ours. They are a little different. I am at a disadvantage you have yours and I have not received mine. But looking from the top on my cylinder ours looks like his in the photo, if I remember correctly. Yours is attached to the top of your cylinder so you only need to pick it out of box to get a close look. Will help us both

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Here is the german ebay Decomp.


----------



## golddredgergold

Its definately not the same as the original that came with the kit in the cylinder. Late now will dig into this more tomorrow. I will stop by the stihl dealer and grab that felt washer.


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford, on your you tube 070 playlist videos #2 and #8 are listed as private and I cannot watch them? The rest are open to the public and can watch those.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Bedford, on your you tube 070 playlist videos #2 and #8 are listed as private and I cannot watch them? The rest are open to the public and can watch those.




they were all there. not sure what you saw. i clicked on 2, 8 and they played
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9Q3gd5dU2LfJAaX01hR6-RJwJauiElAP



kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

So stumped. They say in the ebay add this is rare vintage oem Decomp. And they give this part number 1106 020 9400. Yet every ipl and picture I can find shows the style with the e clips? None show this simple button top design. I would assume the same sealing washer goes under it. Bolt it down tight and the spring arm on top just rests against it?


----------



## golddredgergold

Here it is Bedford. It plays for you cause you are the uploader. You need to change the privacy setting to public on these two videos.


----------



## Bedford T

Sorry, I looked and it looked active. I went to the playlist.









kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

Those were important videos. How that happened I got no idea

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Lol no problem. Just started last night to watch and part 2 was locked. I will get through all the videos today. Sitting here with the broken foot its a good time to learn stuff.


----------



## Bedford T

I finally heard from that guy. They are in no hurry to answer

Hello, no tracking number, sometimes it is a bit longer.

greeting

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> I finally heard from that guy. They are in no hurry to answer
> 
> Hello, no tracking number, sometimes it is a bit longer.
> 
> greeting
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


I just shot him a message and asked about it being different without the e clips and how do I set it up. See what he says.


----------



## Bedford T

We just buy the other parts. We will replace the entire unit. The unit we bought was 29$ locally. Now order the connected bits from your local shop. We bought what shows in the ipl. It's not an odd part.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

I will wait I told I get my part and take it in and say I need the other parts. That way I am assured in the end I got what is needed

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> I will wait I told I get my part and take it in and say I need the other parts. That way I am assured in the end I got what is needed
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Hum my IPL. Shows only the pin with e clips style? I have 2 different ipl's. An 070 and 090?


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Hum my IPL. Shows only the pin with e clips style? I have 2 different ipl's. An 070 and 090?View attachment 652931
> View attachment 652932


It's the same. Except the cylinder size. I sent you both so you would have them. Check the part# we bought against either

The gearing is different on some 090. Decomp is same

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

#10 on 070 we bought

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> #10 on 070 we bought
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


Woohoo awesome I see it now! Ok great I will drop by stihl dealer and get the parts coming. Thanks!


----------



## golddredgergold

Its still looks like the e clip pin type in the picture but if the part number are right I will see what I get.


----------



## Bedford T

I based my purchase on his part number. I got the part # off the ipl and went shopping. That's why I said drop it by.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

I mentioned info is hard to come by. This thread and my videos become the record. 

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Yes not much info out there for sure and my wonderful Stihl dealer does not know anything about these saws.


----------



## Bedford T

I don't have the part. You do. Call Stihl customer service and ask for technical Services. Do not tell them you have a kit saw. You can say you have a box of old 090 parts and the decomp is missing. You bought one off eBay and need to understand what additional parts you need your local guy knows nothing

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

Might have to wait till monday

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Good plan! Hope your arrives soon to.


----------



## Bedford T

Me too.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

Hey Bedford back at page 1 you had posted the 6 shoe clutch. Did hutzl make this ever or is that a Stihl only part? Ones on eBay are pricy! $250+ everywhere.


----------



## Bedford T

Hey way back on page 1. Lol

Stihl part. You can get them for 150-180 out of Germany. If you want one I will help you find it.

If you get one you will want a Stihl sprocket so you know it's round. The lining can come off from heat build up. Sprockets are not much.



kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## golddredgergold

I will run the stock one for a little bit and decide if its worth it or not. Lets see how this one mills. I just ordered a pile of goodies from huztl. I got an extra clutch cover so I can cut around the outside like Will Malloff suggest in his milling book.


----------



## Bedford T

I show mine somewhere. Had a guy that owns this huge machine shop make one. He stopped the shop and he cut it for me charged me 20$. It was perfect. He though it was cool. I think it works great. Keeps that clutch much cooler

It's somewhere in this thread

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

Nice to see someone else deep dive

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> I will run the stock one for a little bit and decide if its worth it or not. Lets see how this one mills. I just ordered a pile of goodies from huztl. I got an extra clutch cover so I can cut around the outside like Will Malloff suggest in his milling book.


Have you looked at your 070 decomp and compared the bodies purchased vs. installed + looked at the bits? 

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> Have you looked at your 070 decomp and compared the bodies purchased vs. installed + looked at the bits?
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


Yes, going to take it apart tonight and see what it looks like installed to see how it lines up. Will post a picture once I get the new one in.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Yes, going to take it apart tonight and see what it looks like installed to see how it lines up. Will post a picture once I get the new one in.


I would be interested to see the old one. Never took mine out.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## golddredgergold

Ok so this new valve is not going to work. Nothing about it is right. It will not fit deep enough height wise. The hole threads are much larger on the stock hutzl setup. I don't know what this Decomp valve is for but it is not the 070 or 090. The German guy has listed it wrong.


----------



## Bedford T

Thank you sir. Please tell me when you have notified him so I can come behind you. I might be forced to wait until I receive it to be able to return it.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## Bedford T

So they have a copper washer under it. "Sealing ring". Finally I get a look. My dealer quoted 29 just for the valve. I'LL be interested to hear what your guy says.

That's a shame. It's a gamble they think they got something and they wind up guessing wrong. Last time this happened it was a .325 sprocket

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info


----------



## golddredgergold

Yes its a bummer. Yes huztl has the copper seal under the original. I am going to do the same as the other fella says and turn the pin in my lathe and use a thicker better e clips. I am sending the photos now to the ebay seller.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Yes its a bummer. Yes huztl has the copper seal under the original. I am going to do the same as the other fella says and turn the pin in my lathe and use a thicker better e clips. I am sending the photos now to the ebay seller.


No lathe here. My best course will be to proceed. I wonder if my pin is loose now I have seen yours I will look at mine, I can without removing it now.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

I almost sent a copy of those pics and stopped. He could have said I got mine. Two messages are in his inbox over this so they should be easy for eBay to discover should there be an issue.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

I really need to sleep but that's hard often. I went back and re-read Ted's post. Surely for <30$ I could get someone to fix the groove, it might be faster.

Where will you look to buy that small clip with a little brass?


Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Bedford T

One word reply. It's not German. I think he's not my buddy anymore






Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## golddredgergold

Lol he sent me a refund instantly! So that's good. Wonder if he will fix the listing now or pull it. Check and see if you have a refund?


----------



## golddredgergold

I am going to try and chuck mine up. But not till I go to Ace hardware and look through all the boxes of little clips and see what I can find. Then come back and do what needs to make sure it can't fall inside. Little effort here can save this saw for sure if the clip where to come off. No doubt the valve pin drops straight into the cylinder. So a little effort on this is ok. I am waiting for that felt seal for the crank anyway. I am also rebuilding a husky 394. So take my time and make sure this setup is solid.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Lol he sent me a refund instantly! So that's good. Wonder if he will fix the listing now or pull it. Check and see if you have a refund?


No refund. Said a label to return it was on the way. I was clear I had not got it yet.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Hey so you know he removed the item for sale. So that's good to see.
So he did listen to me and understood the pictures. Thats respectable.


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> No refund. Said a label to return it was on the way. I was clear I had not got it yet.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


Well long as you get your money back in the end thats good.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Hey so you know he removed the item for sale. So that's good to see.
> So he did listen to me and understood the pictures. Thats respectable.


I hope I get a refund on something I have yet to get. That would be respectable

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Yes. Only thing you got going for you is he knows straight up its not correct and if he puts 2 and 2 together he will sort out you and I are in touch.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Yes. Only thing you got going for you is he knows straight up its not correct and if he puts 2 and 2 together he will sort out you and I are in touch.


I bet a label would cost 10$.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Yes can't imagine having you return it.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bedford T said:


> No lathe here. My best course will be to proceed. I wonder if my pin is loose now I have seen yours I will look at mine, I can without removing it no
> 
> If you do not have a lathe you can always use a drill or a dremel tool to widen the grooves. Make a washer or get a washer out of high grade steel and make a cut into it then crimp it onto the groove. When it has been set on the shaft spot weld it or braze it from coming off. This method has worked for me for more than a year. I have ordered some more decomp units, but have not messed with them yet. If I find a real fool proof unit I will post the results. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

Good info


----------



## Bedford T

I ordered the decomp and it was $33 not 29 like it was last week it'll be over with

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

From your stihl dealer?


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> From your stihl dealer?


Yep, I also got the wrong one today

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

As I was writing this a refund came in on the wrong one. That ad is still up

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Hum good you got your refund. Not sure why he put it back up. It was down yesterday. Now today its back up no changes?


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Hum good you got your refund. Not sure why he put it back up. It was down yesterday. Now today its back up no changes?


That is not the correct part number. Look close at the small tabs in photos. This shows the current part history. If he is confident it's an 090 it might be the first marked 1966 and of course a different part number.












chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

There is no where to report the guy on eBay.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> There is no where to report the guy on eBay.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Nah
That is for everything but


----------



## Ted Jenkins

I found a guy in the UK who stated it will work and the picture looks good. Not positive on the shipping or time. The shipping was suggested at $15 with part at $20 and claimed OEM or maybe like OEM. My home made fix is holding up fine though. I like the husky types better though in you just snap the button in and start. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

Ted Jenkins said:


> I found a guy in the UK who stated it will work and the picture looks good. Not positive on the shipping or time. The shipping was suggested at $15 with part at $20 and claimed OEM or maybe like OEM. My home made fix is holding up fine though. I like the husky types better though in you just snap the button in and start. Thanks


Ted what will work? Don't understand your post.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bed the seller of the decomp valves stated that the units he sells will be compatible with the older large bore Stihl saws or exactly the OEM or like the OEM. I have not received one yet so not sure if this is a fact. Does this help? If some one finds a good source for a decomp valve hopefully they will let us know. A good crimped washer will work fine for quite some time on the unit supplied with the Farmertech. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

Ted Jenkins said:


> Bed the seller of the decomp valves stated that the units he sells will be compatible with the older large bore Stihl saws or exactly the OEM or like the OEM. I have not received one yet so not sure if this is a fact. Does this help? If some one finds a good source for a decomp valve hopefully they will let us know. A good crimped washer will work fine for quite some time on the unit supplied with the Farmertech. Thanks


The part is to important so I went with the one I ordered from the stihl dealer. That huge engine being brought to a stop because it failed worries me. It's worth it to me.

Now I hear you say you found a source that told you they sell decomps that will work. I understand that now.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bed you are right to be concerned that the decomp valve could cause problems. Yes it could stop the saw and destroy the motor. There are two circle clips that need to come loose to allow the plunger to go into the engine which may be likely. If the plunger comes loose the engine will immediately loose compression, but maybe by then it will be too late. When I fist started my saw I immediately had problems with the valve itself and circle clips as one of them came loose. So I came up with a solution until I could figure out a better modification. My modification has worked for more than the past year with some heavy use of the saw from time to time. I have considered trying to fabricate a whole different kind of unit like the husky one, but it could be more machining than I want to invest in. The hole and threads make it not an easy conversion. Starting the saw with out any decomp valve seems not a smart concept in that it appears dangerous to do so. It appears that the valve must remain operational period. I will consider buying another to have because it gets a great deal of work done. This design looks like it could be improved upon, but these saws performed well for many years so my thinking is to work with what they are. A company sells a workable unit for not too much money in the UK [email protected] saegenspezi.com . These units maybe as good as or better than OEM. These are not OEM, but aftermarket. Regardless of the quality of the decomp valve it boils down to the quality of the circle clips that hold the unit in place. The only other solution is to plug the hole by welding it shut and drilling a new taped threaded hole. With a new threaded hole one would be free to install any decomp valve wanted. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

Ted Jenkins said:


> Bed you are right to be concerned that the decomp valve could cause problems. Yes it could stop the saw and destroy the motor. There are two circle clips that need to come loose to allow the plunger to go into the engine which may be likely. If the plunger comes loose the engine will immediately loose compression, but maybe by then it will be too late. When I fist started my saw I immediately had problems with the valve itself and circle clips as one of them came loose. So I came up with a solution until I could figure out a better modification. My modification has worked for more than the past year with some heavy use of the saw from time to time. I have considered trying to fabricate a whole different kind of unit like the husky one, but it could be more machining than I want to invest in. The hole and threads make it not an easy conversion. Starting the saw with out any decomp valve seems not a smart concept in that it appears dangerous to do so. It appears that the valve must remain operational period. I will consider buying another to have because it gets a great deal of work done. This design looks like it could be improved upon, but these saws performed well for many years so my thinking is to work with what they are. A company sells a workable unit for not too much money in the UK [email protected] saegenspezi.com . These units maybe as good as or better than OEM. These are not OEM, but aftermarket. Regardless of the quality of the decomp valve it boils down to the quality of the circle clips that hold the unit in place. The only other solution is to plug the hole by welding it shut and drilling a new taped threaded hole. With a new threaded hole one would be free to install any decomp valve wanted. Thanks


You could easily break a bone with no decomp. I think it's great there is possibly an alternative. Buy ship wait see. My method of buy wait enjoy is best for me. They worked for years so the oem is ok. Thanks for sharing your source. Some dealers are but heads to deal with and people would rather not.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Drop starting a 100 CC plus saw concerns me and I have done it many times. When they decide to pop and even when you have a great hold on them they can jump and then start. I can be a tough guy, but a buzzing 404 chain can bring any one down especially me. So will have as usual a back up saw or two with a working decomp. My foot struggles to get inside the handle, but I do it anyway. A safety decomp vlave I think will gives years of reliable service. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

Ted Jenkins said:


> Drop starting a 100 CC plus saw concerns me and I have done it many times. When they decide to pop and even when you have a great hold on them they can jump and then start. I can be a tough guy, but a buzzing 404 chain can bring any one down especially me. So will have as usual a back up saw or two with a working decomp. My foot struggles to get inside the handle, but I do it anyway. A safety decomp vlave I think will gives years of reliable service. Thanks


I wear size 14 boots. I have a short 1x4 plank that I stick in handle and stand on end. Works well no need to put to in boot

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

I was going to order one decomp from saegenspezi.de and America is not in the long list of countries they ship too. I thought it would be interesting to compare. I might write them

It's there it was in German lol

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Thought you guys might like this. Just got a box of parts from Huztl. Looks like a box of drugs all taped up.


----------



## TheTone

golddredgergold said:


> Though you guys might like this. Just got a box of parts from Huztl. Looks like a box of drugs all taped up.View attachment 654065
> View attachment 654066



"Comin' in to Los Angeles.. bringin' in a couple of keys...don't touch my bags if you please, Mr. Customs man."


----------



## golddredgergold

My wife says it is drugs! Chainsaw parts addiction!


----------



## TheTone

golddredgergold said:


> My wife says it is drugs! Chainsaw parts addiction!



Six of one, half dozen of the other.


----------



## golddredgergold

070 coming along! Got the lower end done. Dealer having troubles getting the felt washer so going to make one. Been over a week asked Friday they said they have no idea when. So I will get on with this and finish it up tomorrow. Fire it up and see how she runs.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bedford T said:


> I wear size 14 boots. I have a short 1x4 plank that I stick in handle and stand on end. Works well no need to put to in boot chainsaw kits and packing lists http://thechainsawkitguy.com http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Hey Bed a great idea about the small plank to secure saw. My foot will not actually go in the handle, but my toe will kind of go in. My foot is smaller than 14 though. I took the small plank a little further. I took a limb and tuned it up a little to hold the saw with a hook in in it. Put one end under a log with my foot holding the other. It make me feel way more secure. I did get a bunch of decomp valves from Germany so if any body needs some I have them. It appeared to be a very important issue to running larger bore saws. My 075 has been sitting around for years because it seemed like a hassle to get it started and a little dangerous. Now it has some new life. BTW maybe get another 070 just for fun now. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

Ted Jenkins said:


> Hey Bed a great idea about the small plank to secure saw. My foot will not actually go in the handle, but my toe will kind of go in. My foot is smaller than 14 though. I took the small plank a little further. I took a limb and tuned it up a little to hold the saw with a hook in in it. Put one end under a log with my foot holding the other. It make me feel way more secure. I did get a bunch of decomp valves from Germany so if any body needs some I have them. It appeared to be a very important issue to running larger bore saws. My 075 has been sitting around for years because it seemed like a hassle to get it started and a little dangerous. Now it has some new life. BTW maybe get another 070 just for fun now. Thanks


Great idea too. I quit trying to struggle with it and did what works, sounds like you did. It's actually boot size with hard toe if you buy to fit it hurts. Buying out of Germany is helpful they have things not available here. Will keep decomp in mind if they fail me, thank you


----------



## golddredgergold

Ted Jenkins said:


> Hey Bed a great idea about the small plank to secure saw. My foot will not actually go in the handle, but my toe will kind of go in. My foot is smaller than 14 though. I took the small plank a little further. I took a limb and tuned it up a little to hold the saw with a hook in in it. Put one end under a log with my foot holding the other. It make me feel way more secure. I did get a bunch of decomp valves from Germany so if any body needs some I have them. It appeared to be a very important issue to running larger bore saws. My 075 has been sitting around for years because it seemed like a hassle to get it started and a little dangerous. Now it has some new life. BTW maybe get another 070 just for fun now. Thanks


Ted you have a picture of the German valves you got?


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Ted you have a picture of the German valves you got?


Of course you need his answer but until then I bet he got the ones he showed us. Go to the German place link I sent you and look it up or

https://shop.saegenspezi.de/Dekoventil-passend-fuer-Stihl-070-090-Contra-AV-070AV-090AV

He sent the email I went further and found the store

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Bedford T said:


> Of course you need his answer but until then I bet he got the ones he showed us. Go to the German place link I sent you and look it up or
> 
> https://shop.saegenspezi.de/Dekoventil-passend-fuer-Stihl-070-090-Contra-AV-070AV-090AV
> 
> He sent the email I went further and found the store
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy




Perfect I missed this. I had a general link to that sight had not seen the valve. Thanks!


----------



## Bedford T

Lol

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Ok she's done! Just finished it up and no left over parts. Everything looks good. I did a good woods port job on it. Really the only thing I am not happy with is the muffler bolt near the handle. I put the handle then the muffler but my 10mm socket and or wrenches do not fit to tighten muffler all the way. So wait for my son see if he has a socket thin enough to get in there. Thats a very tight fit.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Ok she's done! Just finished it up and no left over parts. Everything looks good. I did a good woods port job on it. Really the only thing I am not happy with is the muffler bolt near the handle. I put the handle then the muffler but my 10mm socket and or wrenches do not fit to tighten muffler all the way. So wait for my son see if he has a socket thin enough to get in there. Thats a very tight fit.View attachment 654987
> View attachment 654988
> View attachment 654989


You must use a wrench to get in there. If my memory is correct. Did you go with stock cylinder 070 or 090? Putting carb nuts on is tight too.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

070 cylinder. Yes end wrench worked best but o my so far. I am going to heat up a China 10mm each wrench and make a custom bend and grind it to fit nice.


----------



## Bedford T

If I could just recall. Remove handle? I had to do something

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Yes removed the muffler install handle then put muffler on. I got the handle tight, left side muffler bolt tight but right side the tight side I was only able to run it down. Needs to be tightened up. I will get it. Work on it more tomorrow and fire it up.


----------



## golddredgergold

Hey does anyone know what mounts to these 2 holes on the left front of the saw?


----------



## golddredgergold

Oh forgot to say also got it fired up today and it runs perfect. Very very happy with this saw. Looking forward to milling with it.


----------



## Bedford T

golddredgergold said:


> Hey does anyone know what mounts to these 2 holes on the left front of the saw?View attachment 655511


That dusty ipl, Hint look up x AV

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

On that protools66 store they carry those parts. One of the handles used a bar support that possibly might ALSO attach there. Same case used on 090 without the gears and could come into play there, as well.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Wow this saw runs great. Milling videos coming next week. What a saw for $300 shipped. They have a sale going on thought the rest of the month to. Think my son is going to get an 070 and a 440.


----------



## Bedford T

got my decomp today from stihl it came with the circlip


----------



## Bedford T

(I just noticed some of the videos attached at the ate missing. They are all there. Some of the urls changed but are listed in the playlist.)

I spoke with goldy and asked about his experience in replacing the decomp. One thing to you new guys getting ready to build your kits, there has been very little to replace on the saw. I had trouble with my decomp and so ordered one and I showed it above. After talking with Goldy his experience leads me to strongly suggest that you replace the decomp before you place the cylinder.

This is the only saw in the kit line that has this type decomp. I am going on what he said and what I see now that I can look at it closely. Its a match to the huztl so they duplicated it. you dont spin it in as one piece. I will remove the eclip and the piston will fall out. You take a nice big bladed screwdriver and run the body in the cylinder and from inside the cylinder you use something to drop it back into the body (he used a pen magnetic) and then secure it with the circlip. Your saws health depends on the eclip.

So i have to remove the cylinder, means the carb and the muffler. so you can see where the best time for you to do it is before you assembly the thing. The metal of the oem looks very high quality and the eclip is as well. so thats a one and done deal. the saw overall is very high quality so something small like this is not a budget breaker and it sure is excellent insurance. these photos are more detailed. if i run into something i will say something.

I kinda forgot about this, on this first saw they sent out it had the original hex head cylinder bolts that have this huge head on them. That's what you see in the one photo. The kit had t27. Huztl sent out a hexhead tool in the tool pouch, but I ordered a 6" power driver 5mm hex head so I can use a 1/4" socket on it and get a good bite when i replace it.















chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## golddredgergold

Got my milling bar clamp done!


----------



## eagle1899

Does anyone know the difference between the two 36" Bar and Chains kits offered by Huztl?


----------



## Bedford T

I think one is a hard nose


eagle1899 said:


> Does anyone know the difference between the two 36" Bar and Chains kits offered by Huztl?


----------



## eagle1899

Bedford T said:


> I think one is a hard nose




You are correct!!!! I wasn't paying attention..... Thanks!!!!


----------



## Ted Jenkins

What was the cost for the OEM Stihl decomp valve? I discovered early in my experience that the decomp valve was a problem. Mine came loose which caused me to be concerned. I would have tried to get a OEM, but could not find any body who either stocked it or would order it so ordered some from Germany. The ones I received were awesome. The circle clips fit well and are of high quality. I still discarded them to install a washer that was brazed. I am still delighted with the saw and want more. I have not committed to a MS660, 372XP or another 070. I have a rebuilt 075 which is similar to the 070 but would like another option. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

Ted Jenkins said:


> What was the cost for the OEM Stihl decomp valve? I discovered early in my experience that the decomp valve was a problem. Mine came loose which caused me to be concerned. I would have tried to get a OEM, but could not find any body who either stocked it or would order it so ordered some from Germany. The ones I received were awesome. The circle clips fit well and are of high quality. I still discarded them to install a washer that was brazed. I am still delighted with the saw and want more. I have not committed to a MS660, 372XP or another 070. I have a rebuilt 075 which is similar to the 070 but would like another option. Thanks


The 660 is well worth building and with some part change out ever bit as good as oem.

I still have not done my 070 decomp change out. It was around $33 USA and they did have to get it from Germany. Took about 6 weeks

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ted Jenkins

"The 660 is well worth building and with some part change out ever bit as good as oem."

The 660 I like very much. It is powerful enough to actually cut some thing, but easily small enough for limbing. With the 660 I would want a 404 bar and as small a sprocket that I could imagine. However the 372XP would be used primarily for limbing, but yet it could cut some thing in a pinch. Right now I have other projects that are a priority. I have been working on a small ranch removing dead Oak and since the weather is good right now the owner wants the trees around the barn gone ASAP. They are concerned that the trees could injure a horse or damage the barn. So more saws will have to wait a few weeks. Thanks


----------



## TheTone

Ted Jenkins said:


> What was the cost for the OEM Stihl decomp valve? . . .



I ordered one through my Stihl dealer and as I recall, it was around $16.


----------



## Bedford T

TheTone said:


> I ordered one through my Stihl dealer and as I recall, it was around $16.


For a 070 decomp? 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## TheTone

Oops, I was thinking 066.


----------



## Absolution

Just out of curiosity, what, fuel mix are you using for your saws. I've been running Husqvarna 50:1 because all my other 2 stroke runs it.


----------



## Bedford T

Absolution said:


> Just out of curiosity, what, fuel mix are you using for your saws. I've been running Husqvarna 50:1 because all my other 2 stroke runs it.


32:1 and 40:1. 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## carrbear

HL Supply has FT 070 kits on sale today for $224.99 with free shipping. Cheap price for one of these. Haven't seen one for less. The shipping usually pretty high. It's their heaviest kit saw.

http://www.hlsproparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CS07000A


----------



## Bedford T

carrbear said:


> HL Supply has FT 070 kits on sale today for $224.99 with free shipping. Cheap price for one of these. Haven't seen one for less. The shipping usually pretty high. It's their heaviest kit saw.
> 
> http://www.hlsproparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CS07000A


Jump on that. It is heavy but it's a big saw. Those two things go together. Heavy duty all the way too.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ted Jenkins

I do not do much limbing with my 070 so size and weight does not matter. Generally if I have a log that is 18'' or larger and at least 20' then it is good fit with the 070. Most of my material is in the 26 to 36'' category so it has proved well. I think most saws would live at 50:1 but why. Stihl Husky and most others that market USA have a goal to pacify EPA. The reliability and longevity have nothing to do with anything. The companies also know that if a saw wears out they can sell a new one. I know from many years of experience where a motor will live. With heavy use on race motors they do best with a ratio between 30 to 40:1. Often a motor with close to a 100 hours will cease to function meaning the piston skirts start cracking and the rings loose much compression. Why go lean on oil when it is not necessary. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

Ted Jenkins said:


> I do not do much limbing with my 070 so size and weight does not matter. Generally if I have a log that is 18'' or larger and at least 20' then it is good fit with the 070. Most of my material is in the 26 to 36'' category so it has proved well. I think most saws would live at 50:1 but why. Stihl Husky and most others that market USA have a goal to pacify EPA. The reliability and longevity have nothing to do with anything. The companies also know that if a saw wears out they can sell a new one. I know from many years of experience where a motor will live. With heavy use on race motors they do best with a ratio between 30 to 40:1. Often a motor with close to a 100 hours will cease to function meaning the piston skirts start cracking and the rings loose much compression. Why go lean on oil when it is not necessary. Thanks


I certainly agree. Why not give your saw plenty of oil. 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

I finally ordered my 090 cylinder. Meteor does not make a kit so I got one that is made in Taiwan and comes with a guarantee and is in the US, I am doing a 440 project too so not sure which comes first but really looking forward to the meteor upgrade. I have the oem decomp and will install it first on the 090 cylinder. Nothing was wrong with the FarmerTec cylinder, I needed to remove the cylinder to replace the decomp and decided I wanted a 090 so i did it. will update


----------



## Bedford T

Here is the cylinder. Looks good. look forward to putting it on


----------



## Chainsaw Jim

Bedford T said:


> Here is the cylinder. Looks good. look forward to putting it on



Are you planning any grinding on the 090 cylinder?


----------



## Bedford T

Do you mean porting? No to that. I see nothing that needs grinding otherwise.


Chainsaw Jim said:


> Are you planning any grinding on the 090 cylinder?



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Chainsaw Jim

Bedford T said:


> Do you mean porting? No to that. I see nothing that needs grinding otherwise.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


You didn't notice the mismatch at the base with this version of the 090 cylinder? You gotta match the cylinder base to the case if you want it to run right.


----------



## Bedford T

No I did not. My 070 cylinder is installed and so I can't see the base. 

I did not know there were different versions. So a oem gasket will not match up to the cylinder?


Chainsaw Jim said:


> You didn't notice the mismatch at the base with this version of the 090 cylinder? You gotta match the cylinder base to the case if you want it to run right.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Chainsaw Jim

I didn't mean to say different version, I just meant it doesn't match up like you'd expect.


----------



## Bedford T

Thanks for heads up. I laid a 090 gasket on it and the bolts are off. I am returning it.


Chainsaw Jim said:


> I didn't mean to say different version, I just meant it doesn't match up like you'd expect.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

i came back around to it. i put the 070 gasket on it (not seated) and the bolts line up. i tried the 090 gasket again and it in fact fits. so in the photo that has the gasket seated where is this grinding required? if you dont mind giving me more information. you told me there was a fire just share where its at. the 070 is laid on the 090 gasket if that helps. thanks


----------



## Chainsaw Jim

Bedford T said:


> i came back around to it. i put the 070 gasket on it (not seated) and the bolts line up. i tried the 090 gasket again and it in fact fits. so in the photo that has the gasket seated where is this grinding required? if you dont mind giving me more information. you told me there was a fire just share where its at. the 070 is laid on the 090 gasket if that helps. thanks
> View attachment 668207
> View attachment 668210


Depending on where there's better room I'd consider these two options. 
1: cut a small section of collar away and tunnel through...



2: cut the entire lower section out similar to open port designs, but the bridge between the upper is still intact...


----------



## Leafy

Are these still running good? I'm considering getting one for a go-kart or mini bike. Should be pretty easy to make more power than a mildly built 212 predator with the 090 jug and a woods port. Is there any word on the stronger clutch coming out? If not I'd just take the current clutch apart and weld a sprocket to it to run to a jackshaft and use a go-kart clutch between the jack shaft and the axle.


----------



## Bedford T

Mine runs good

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Absolution

Ive had this saw for a couple months now. I've planked some beautiful boards with it and used it to take down half of a chestnut tree when i realized the tree haf gotten much bigger than i remembered and my fathers mac 700 didn't have a long enough bar.

I had mainly gotten this saw as a hobby to start making furniture. I got out of the Marines back in june and i notice about a month later (and so did the dentist) i started to grind my teeth again in my sleep. So i figured it was because i didnt feel like i wasn't doing enough anymore.

The few things that i did to the saw was ditch the carb that had came with it. Thanks to this thread i was prepared because when the saw came in the carb was junk and untuneable. I've also disabled the governor which made the saw feel more alive. I did also polish out the elbow that attached the carb to the air box. (Really because i was bored one evening). And today after i was cutting some dried walnut i noticed there were some super fine dust inside the airbox. So i ended up taping off the top of airbox cover and tried to make a gasket using flex seal and i can now see much better sealing around the corners.

I also have two bars 1 huztl 36" and one tiger 25"


----------



## Absolution

Im also very interested in the new 660 clone they just released.

I figured I'd do one more picture before tonight end.


----------



## CharlieD

Well my wife made the statement that she has never know me to be so quiet and asked if I was looking at p or n.
I’ve been reading this thread for about three days.
Ordered my 070 kit today. 
We’ll see.


----------



## Absolution

Trust me im still trying to blow it up.


----------



## CharlieD

With the oil port question popping up about different guide bars would the 
*Holzfforma 36'' Guide Bar .404 .063 104 Drive Links For Stihl 070 090 088 084 076 075 051 050 MS880 *

*be an ok choice for my 070 kit on the way?*
*Was it ever decided who had the “good” design on the decompress valve?*


----------



## Absolution

I have the 36" bar, the laminate peeled off and it does seem be very flexible compared to other bars. I believe this bar would be a better match.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/291534496871


----------



## CharlieD

Will that match up with the adjuster and oil ports?


----------



## Absolution

According to the description yes it will.


----------



## smokey7

Holy cow a china 070 turning 13k. Thats very fast for a oem saw and extremely fast for a china crank saw. Id back it off closer to 11 if it was me. They were never intended to go that fast.do you have and porting numbers to share or any cha ges you made to have it spin that fast.
Edit i just looked up a 090 oem spec was 6500 - 8000 max


----------



## Absolution

I think the 13 was a high end by chance. Usually it runs alittle over 12,400.

I've bearly opened up the exhaust and bent the muffler cap (or what ever it's called) and i opened up the carb (I had no idea what I was doing.) It's my first time building a two stroke. When I was milling dry walnut it was going about 10k-11k. I ordered an 090 kit and a new clutch because i think mine slips alittle.


----------



## smokey7

I still feel like thats too fast for even a oem 070 or 090. If i remember correctly they are like 6500 or 8500 stock max rpm. If you are doing 12-13k thats nearly double what im recalling. To each his own and very good a $18 china crank holding up to that kinda rpm is impressive. What kindof revs were you getting before governor delete?


----------



## Absolution

The gov is what had it running at 8k. I had read where others were running real 090 at 12k so i don't think its that impressive.


----------



## smokey7

I think it is impressive for a clone to run that fast for any length of time. Got any videos of it running or better yet milling or workibg? 090s and 070s always seem slow to me. Kinda a tractor saw all torque at low revs.


----------



## Absolution

Ill try and get a video later today verses a pro mac 700 for comparison.

Currently this is my day.


----------



## Absolution

Well, I said I'd get a video and here it is. However I am gonna say the pro mac isn't running right. A few days ago when we raced it gave me a run for my money until we hit the heart wood then the huztl came through. Also i have to start the saw for my father he tore a rotator cuff.


----------



## Absolution

So i went back over my chain because it didnt feel right. It was dull in those videos. Im never buying another husky chain again. It seems like it doesn't keep an edge.

Here's a quick clip of it sharpened.
I'm waiting on my chain breaker to come in so i can make some with the rolls i have.


----------



## CharlieD

That’s a good camera. That’s like looking through a window instead of a camera.


----------



## Absolution

CharlieD said:


> That’s a good camera. That’s like looking through a window instead of a camera.



Its just my cell phone. But i did buy it because of the camera. S6 active


----------



## WolfMann

Hey I'm working on one of these kit saws now. On the crankcase page of 070 ipl there is a part listed (#10) as bearing bushing. I can't find a spot for this on the crankcase. Can someone with more experience tell me where this fits? Thanks guys


----------



## CharlieD

WolfMann said:


> Hey I'm working on one of these kit saws now. On the crankcase page of 070 ipl there is a part listed (#10) as bearing bushing. I can't find a spot for this on the crankcase. Can someone with more experience tell me where this fits? Thanks guys




Item #10 is a vent that you have to install and the two item #20’s are the bushings that go between the crank and bearings. Helps hold the bearings in place. They are two flat brown pieces that are better described as spacers. Mine were loose in the box.


----------



## WolfMann

The spacer/bushings make perfect sense, I still don't see where that #10 part fits into place?


----------



## Bedford T

Look on YouTube.
"FarmerTec huztl 070 governor installation" and I would appreciate a subscribe while your there.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## WolfMann

Bedford T said:


> Look on YouTube.
> "FarmerTec huztl 070 governor installation" and I would appreciate a subscribe while your there.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



That makes more sense now, thank you. I thought it fit somewhere different in the crankcase, they included two of these in the kit, one with the governor assembly and one with the crankcase bolts. I think that's what was throwing me off. Is it common to find spare parts in these kits?


----------



## Bedford T

Not rare

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## WolfMann

Thanks again, also appreciate YouTube videos, subscribed awhile back, helpful to get a visual.


----------



## Bedford T

Thank you. That was one area a video is necessary. Somehow it got gone and I did what I did and it still worked out. 

No documentation existed and people from all over the world came together and gave me little pieces of info that I could turn into a plan 

Quite a saw

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

This stuff is for our last class of serious builders. Check out eBay 283177820540. Blew my mind. Heavy duty. Look at sellers other stuff. Like AV conversion handle. Shipping is insane. Ups only. I bought two.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## WolfMann

Nice link, I really like the looks of those series 2 av handles. Would love to get one setup someday.


----------



## WolfMann

Cool to see a zama carb too, what's the difference in performance between those and the tillotson carbs?


----------



## Bedford T

WolfMann said:


> Cool to see a zama carb too, what's the difference in performance between those and the tillotson carbs?


I don't think any. He is buying in a different country and selling here. Stihl replaced the Tillotson with the Zama LB-S9A. They still use it on the MS720. They don't sell the 720 here. So I doubt you could buy the gasket kit at Stihl. I am real happy with the Tillotson.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

here are 3 photos of the oem chip guard. the one that came on the first saws were thick and the AM replacements are thinner. the rubber quality is as expected from stihl, outsight. the photo (4) showing a thinner is a farmertec. i think Brazil is the area that stihl has these parts for sale


----------



## olyman

Bedford T said:


> here are 3 photos of the oem chip guard. the one that came on the first saws were thick and the AM replacements are thinner. the rubber quality is as expected from stihl, outsight. the photo (4) showing a thinner is a farmertec. i think Brazil is the area that stihl has these parts for saleView attachment 686977
> View attachment 686978
> View attachment 686979
> View attachment 686980
> .


whoooooo big diff...……...


----------



## ja_cain

Getting ready to pull the trigger on one of these. Currently have a 661 that I was going to use for milling, but stumbled across these bad boys. Anyone have some good videos of milling with one of these in 36"+ oak?


----------



## ja_cain

This is the tree I want to mill. I think I cut it into 10+ foot sections. Do you guys think slabs could bring good money from a tree like this?


----------



## Bedford T

ja_cain said:


> This is the tree I want to mill. I think I cut it into 10+ foot sections. Do you guys think slabs could bring good money from a tree like this?


That's a big tree. The type wood is the most important factor, then size, around here anyway. It's still fun. You can build fences, benches, outbuildings with about any ole wood. That tree is big enough to be a sweetgum. I hate them. Hate is a mean word. But it fits 

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

ja_cain said:


> Getting ready to pull the trigger on one of these. Currently have a 661 that I was going to use for milling, but stumbled across these bad boys. Anyone have some good videos of milling with one of these in 36"+ oak?


Look at any Farmertec ms660 milling video an imagine it's blue. These saws are not special they are blue/purple kits assembled by Chinese. If you want to mainly mill get the 070

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ja_cain

Bedford T said:


> That's a big tree. The type wood is the most important factor, then size, around here anyway. It's still fun. You can build fences, benches, outbuildings with about any ole wood. That tree is big enough to be a sweetgum. I hate them. Hate is a mean word. But it fits
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


 
It's a white oak. I also have some 24" section from the oak that was next to it.


----------



## Bedford T

ja_cain said:


> It's a white oak. I also have some 24" section from the oak that was next to it.


Google furniture wood in your area. A place here pays according to size and species, they are a good market for guys slabbing. Then if you have more than one you can play one against the other

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

How did you get the tree setup on those logs

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## ja_cain

Bedford T said:


> How did you get the tree setup on those logs
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy



I just blocked it up with a round so it would be stable when I cut it. It was on the rootball.


----------



## ja_cain

Bedford T said:


> Google furniture wood in your area. A place here pays according to size and species, they are a good market for guys slabbing. Then if you have more than one you can play one against the other
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy



Cool. Will do! Just wondering what you might be getting for 24" wide by 1.5" to 3" slabs at 10' length?


----------



## ja_cain

Boom! Just cause he's asking, doesn't mean he's getting. It's a start though. Lol!

https://norfolk.craigslist.org/grd/d/kiln-dried-wood-slabs/6726629830.html


----------



## Bedford T

ja_cain said:


> Cool. Will do! Just wondering what you might be getting for 24" wide by 1.5" to 3" slabs at 10' length?


I don't i looked into it. I wanted to know how it worked so in case I came across some good wood I could talk to the right person. Bottom line I learned you need to work locally and build relationships to get best price and move it. What they sell it for tells me what to ask. I am doing all the work, he is just buying. I figured I would be low at first and work up. That is my plan.

The guy on Craigslist is trying the market. Small furniture makers look to be best best. Thing is they need stability in pricing so I bet he has a hard time unless he is right place

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Nothinghead

For anyone who attempts this build in the future, the decompression valve is installed with the cylinder mounted to the case. 


There is a special tool for this. See the picture taken from.the service manual with part number listed above the images.


----------



## Nothinghead

Additionally, it doesn't sound like you all are working from the full size service manual. It has a full step by step with pictures and details on how to build and teardown one of these. It will answer lots of your questions. 

http://download1640.mediafire.com/1fsv39bsw9bg/afjxx06n57brlnj/070+090+sm+94pages.pdf


----------



## Nothinghead

The last thing I saw questioned and left hanging that I can answer is the stator plate. 


The aftermarket one you have is an electronic ignition conversion. 

If you unscrew the orange box from the plate, it's an epoxy sealed unit. No condensor or points or anything. 

You set the air gap with a business card and timing is handled from there.


----------



## Bedford T

We had a manual Stihl gave us. Kinda arrogant for you to assume we did not have something.


Nothinghead said:


> For anyone who attempts this build in the future, the decompression valve is installed with the cylinder mounted to the case.
> 
> 
> There is a special tool for this. See the picture taken from.the service manual with part number listed above the images. View attachment 691335



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

So you took apart an electronic device that was sealed to use a business card on it. Sounds like you are making this up.


Nothinghead said:


> The last thing I saw questioned and left hanging that I can answer is the stator plate.
> 
> 
> The aftermarket one you have is an electronic ignition conversion.
> 
> If you unscrew the orange box from the plate, it's an epoxy sealed unit. No condensor or points or anything.
> 
> You set the air gap with a business card and timing is handled from there.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

This is out of our manual. Know it all, the world has too many.







chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

So what happens in your dream world where you are right and the world is wrong if they don't have the tool? That tool does not indicate how it would keep the pin from slipping down in the cylinder, it just unscrews the decomp. No tool required there sport.


Nothinghead said:


> For anyone who attempts this build in the future, the decompression valve is installed with the cylinder mounted to the case.
> 
> 
> There is a special tool for this. See the picture taken from.the service manual with part number listed above the images. View attachment 691335



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Nothinghead

Wow! This took a turn I wasn't expecting! 


Let me clear up that I wasn't being arrogant, just helpful. You didn't seem to know about the decomp tool so that told me you hadn't seen the manual. Just thought I'd offer it up. No judgment.... 

The tool works because it allows you to keep the eclip on the shaft during install. This prevents the shaft from falling anywhere. 

I know this because I just did it with a homemade tool. 

As for the business card, you misunderstand me. 

The coil has two metal arches. They need to be gapped properly to the magnets on the flywheel. This gap is done with a business card. The thickness of a business card is often used for this on lots of engines. 

I only unscrewed two screws... Didn't really disassemble anything. Take a look at yours next time you have the flywheel off. That orange box is sealed up good. 


Again... Not being hostile or judgemental here. No need to call names. Not being a know it all. I just have a few of these saws in front of me built by Stihl and have been tearing them down and building them for a few weeks here.


----------



## Nothinghead

I've had these for about a month now and have been trouble shooting and addressing some issues. 

I ordered some huztl parts and had some of the same questions as you.


----------



## Nothinghead

Here's a photo. You'll notice it has a hole in the center to accept the pin while mounted to the decomp body.


----------



## Bedford T

You said
Additionally, it doesn't sound like you all are working from the full size service manual.

If you read you would have had the correct information. That kinda stuff is worse than name calling. Like we are idiots and you are here to straighten things out. You came looking for information because this is the only place it's complete.

That tool, I bet, don't have one, does nothing to hold that pin from dropping. It covers it so what. The problem is the pin dropping when you remove the eclip, it would have to have muscles.

Before you post please be sure what you say is accurate, you are not doing to well so far. If you would have bothered reading the partial manual you posted above the cylinder is pulled off and they used the tool, because of the pin. You beat your chest, done in place, give me a break Cinderella.

You are welcome to add accurate info but you are not


Nothinghead said:


> View attachment 691491
> Here's a photo. You'll notice it has a hole in the center to accept the pin while mounted to the decomp body.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Nothinghead

I wasn't beating my chest at all, but maybe now I will. 

So my gut reaction was to take a video proving my process accurate. I've done it already so I know it works. 

Then I realized after thinking about it that I don't actually care if you believe me or not. Your loss. It's only a few extra bolts to take the cylinder off anyway. 


I'm sorry I stepped into your little power trip. I thought you were aggregating information on these saws, but clearly I was wrong. 

I found this post via a Google search. It didn't offer the information I needed. It's an incomplete volume on these saws. I hoped to add some more pieces to the puzzle for everyone but you don't seem to want it.


----------



## WolfMann

I'll help change the subject...


----------



## WolfMann

Here are a couple service bulletins I found posted on a different site. They go into detail on carb tuning for the 070/090. I thought it made for a pretty good read.


----------



## Nothinghead

WolfMann said:


> Here are a couple service bulletins I found posted on a different site. They go into detail on carb tuning for the 070/090. I thought it made for a pretty good read.


Dufour?


----------



## dpotapov

So what is the current best recommendation on the decompression valve problem ? It failed in my previous build after about 6 tanks and destroyed the cylinder, piston and rings. A good way to plug the hole without welding ? An inexpensive way to source high quality decomp valves ?


----------



## Nothinghead

dpotapov said:


> So what is the current best recommendation on the decompression valve problem ? It failed in my previous build after about 6 tanks and destroyed the cylinder, piston and rings. A good way to plug the hole without welding ? An inexpensive way to source high quality decomp valves ?




If I remember correctly, it was a M14 bolt. I do not recall the pitch. A plug could be made. I lapped my decomp and decided not to remove it. If the lapping does not work, then I'll try to buy an OEM one, and failing that, I'll make a plug.


----------



## Bedford T

Here is your part # 1122 025 2200 - Plug
Decompress plug 1128 020 9400

If you don't have a dealer get one off eBay.



dpotapov said:


> So what is the current best recommendation on the decompression valve problem ? It failed in my previous build after about 6 tanks and destroyed the cylinder, piston and rings. A good way to plug the hole without welding ? An inexpensive way to source high quality decomp valves ?



http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## dpotapov

sorry Bedford T with all due respect (I watched your 070 build videos and read alot of your posts, great info) 
1122 025 2200 does not look like the right plug for 070 huztl cylinder nor the other part that you mentioned

M14 fine thread (as nothinghead mentioned above) sounds closer but I am not sure how to safely plug the small side opening in the wall of the decomp valve hole
also it needs to be a certain length ? anti vibration & temperature lock washer ?, JB weld extreme heat paste ? keep or not keep huztl copper crimp washer there ?
etc.

I was hoping to find an off the shelf plug with all the right dimensions ( again, no welding ) to simply seal that hole well like a sparkplug seals its hole

( I am just looking for something that is gonna last ALOT longer than the huztl decomp valve, which at 6 tanks may not be too bad but it is $$ for the parts 
and then rebuild & downtime and the safety issues etc and 070 burns 6 tanks fast)


----------



## Bedford T

dpotapov said:


> sorry Bedford T with all due respect (I watched your 070 build videos and read alot of your posts, great info)
> 1122 025 2200 does not look like the right plug for 070 huztl cylinder nor the other part that you mentioned
> 
> M14 fine thread (as nothinghead mentioned above) sounds closer but I am not sure how to safely plug the small side opening in the wall of the decomp valve hole
> also it needs to be a certain length ? anti vibration & temperature lock washer ?, JB weld extreme heat paste ? keep or not keep huztl copper crimp washer there ?
> etc.
> 
> I was hoping to find an off the shelf plug with all the right dimensions ( again, no welding ) to simply seal that hole well like a sparkplug seals its hole
> 
> ( I am just looking for something that is gonna last ALOT longer than the huztl decomp valve, which at 6 tanks may not be too bad but it is $$ for the parts
> and then rebuild & downtime and the safety issues etc and 070 burns 6 tanks fast)


I answered from my phone and it obscured the title some. I pulled the numbers from 660. Most often question. So I hate i did that.

I don't see how you can crank the 070 without a decomp. More power to you. I have already shown the correct part. So you can figure out the rest. There is no other way to do it or part to use. I found a dealer and ordered the part and waited about 8 weeks.

I bet it's not long before it breaks your arm.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Nothinghead said:


> View attachment 691491
> Here's a photo. You'll notice it has a hole in the center to accept the pin while mounted to the decomp body.



No body needs the decomp tool. I have one, but it has been awhile since I needed one and could not locate it in a few minutes. Push some thin rope or string into the spark pug hole until it is full. I bound the flywheel with a strap clamp and then took the e clips off the decomp valve. I pushed the plunger down into the cylinder until it was below the grove and then twisted the decomp valve out. The plunger came out with it. I machined two groves into the plunger just a little wider. Put some lock tight on the valve reinstalled with the modified plunger. With a magnet it moved about an eighth of an inch so I could install modified washers that fit the plunger. I crimps the washer tight and brazed it shut installed an extra spring and repeated the process. The set up has been flawless with more than forty tanks of fuel. In the mean time I ordered five or six decomp valves to have on hand in case of failure. BTW if any one need valves I have some. I had forgotten what it was like to use a 404 chain. One time I cut three cords of Oak with out touching the chain. Of course the wood was clean, green and large. Now I have two 070 ready to go. I have a 075 and 076 that needs some love and tlc, but the 070's have not blinked yet. Maybe with good weather I will be able to finish their restoration. Thanks


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bedford T said:


> I answered from my phone and it obscured the title some. I pulled the numbers from 660. Most often question. So I hate i did that.
> 
> I don't see how you can crank the 070 without a decomp. More power to you. I have already shown the correct part. So you can figure out the rest. There is no other way to do it or part to use. I found a dealer and ordered the part and waited about 8 weeks.
> 
> I bet it's not long before it breaks your arm.
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy



I weigh 200 lbs and have a grip that exceeds 200 lbs probably because I have grabbed hundreds upon hundreds of cords of wood. I thought no big deal just pull the damn rope and go cut. One time it back fired and slipped away from my foot. I put the saw away and finished the day with another saw. It went back to the shop until the decomp was working perfect. I take enough chances as it is so why not have a saw that might be considered safe. Thanks


----------



## Bedford T

Ted Jenkins said:


> I weigh 200 lbs and have a grip that exceeds 200 lbs probably because I have grabbed hundreds upon hundreds of cords of wood. I thought no big deal just pull the damn rope and go cut. One time it back fired and slipped away from my foot. I put the saw away and finished the day with another saw. It went back to the shop until the decomp was working perfect. I take enough chances as it is so why not have a saw that might be considered safe. Thanks


It's a monster saw. I am no weakling. It scares me. I respect it. Do you have the part# for the decomp tool? I would like to own it

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Chainsaw Jim

My plans for the decomp is to make a plug, then drill it out and tap it to install a modern stihl decomp button. Kinda like a homemade time-sert. I'll use a small enough id sized washer underneath to catch the plunger if it ever fails. Also I don't have to worry about holding the damn thing down with my thumb when pulling the rope.


----------



## dpotapov

Well, I guess I feel a little stupid now (which does not feel good), or, about to be educated a bit (which would feel great) 
because, I never ever used the decomp valve to start my 070, and, I have lots of other saws and gas engines around that don't have decomp valves in the first place.

So I thought maybe if my wife can't start the 070 ( without using decomp. HA. ) maybe it is a good thing

Thanks for the DIY pointers, Ted Jenkins.

And thanks for your reply, Bedford T. So the recommended solution is ~$30 ? Half of it the part, half of it the shipping ?
Even more than the huztl cylinder & piston kit, shipped. 
Feels a bit high when the right geometry plug is probably under $5.
But, maybe that's just a fact of life I gotta accept (and/or learn how to weld aluminum).


----------



## Bedford T

Decomp wrench
1106 893 1310

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Nothinghead

Bedford T said:


> It's a monster saw. I am no weakling. It scares me. I respect it. Do you have the part# for the decomp tool? I would like to own it
> 
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy



I gave you the part number above.....


----------



## Nothinghead

i had a plunger fall into the cylinder once. It's not a big deal. pull the spark plug, flip the saw, and in a shake or two the plunger came out. 

This doesn't help the installation, but bringing the cylinder to TDC seems to keep the plunger from dropping all the way into the chamber. This is somewhat what Ted described above.


----------



## Bedford T

Awesome information. I just caught up.

Years later I still am preaching the role a carb plays in oiling a saw. Plus, it shows I been to high on the tune. Enjoyed reading this. Thanks

I had a conversation with a guy that complained strongly the saw was too slow. I tried to steer him to the 660. Folks need to understand slow can be powerful and this might help with that.


WolfMann said:


> Here are a couple service bulletins I found posted on a different site. They go into detail on carb tuning for the 070/090. I thought it made for a pretty good read.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Chainsaw Jim said:


> My plans for the decomp is to make a plug, then drill it out and tap it to install a modern stihl decomp button. Kinda like a homemade time-sert. I'll use a small enough id sized washer underneath to catch the plunger if it ever fails. Also I don't have to worry about holding the damn thing down with my thumb when pulling the rope.



Actually I tried that fix, but went back to just put the correct decomp valve back in and has worked perfectly. Thanks


----------



## Chainsaw Jim

Ted Jenkins said:


> Actually I tried that fix, but went back to just put the correct decomp valve back in and has worked perfectly. Thanks


What about it didn't work?


----------



## dpotapov

this plug looks like it might work for 070 . anybody ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DECOMPRESS...TIHL-050-051-075-076-TS510-TS760/221779919058


----------



## Bedford T

Hell no.



dpotapov said:


> anybody ?
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/DECOMPRESS...TIHL-050-051-075-076-TS510-TS760/221779919058





http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Chainsaw Jim

dpotapov said:


> this plug looks like it might work for 070 . anybody ?
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/DECOMPRESS...TIHL-050-051-075-076-TS510-TS760/221779919058


That decomp valve fits a smaller diameter hole.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Chainsaw Jim said:


> What about it didn't work?



I could say if I persisted could have made it work. My plan was to use a Husky valve with the OEM style knob. The Husky type is close to a long reach spark plug as far as threads go. I was going to use a plug then drill it and tap it the same as the Husky valve, but one of the issues cam up with the plug is that it is not straight. The bottom part of the plug is much more narrow with less material to work with. After spending a hour or so I thought why am I spending time on something that might not work well. Went to the trusty desktop and ordered several. Now the decomp is nearly bullet proof with out spending much time on it. Thanks


----------



## Chainsaw Jim

My decomp valve was leaking and I didn't feel like waiting on an order. I went down to the hardware store and grabbed a 14mm x 1.50 bolt and went at it.



I noticed there's a pretty good sized hole left exposed to the combustion chamber. 


It calculates out to the equivalent of adding .0215" to the squish band which lessens compression some. I decided to machine down the smaller bolt on the right in the picture above to match that area perfectly to eliminate it. The copper washer also needed opened up a little on the inside to fit the plug. I'll make another plug out of aluminum to replace it if it creates a hot spot. 



Here's the piece I cut from the end of the 14mm bolt to finish it off. 




The increase in compression is a noticeable difference.

I'll eventually be cutting the base to increase compression enough to need a decomp, so another piece of that 14mm bolt will work perfectly for machining a time-sert to fit a modern decomp.


----------



## Nothinghead

Chainsaw Jim said:


> My decomp valve was leaking and I didn't feel like waiting on an order. I went down to the hardware store and grabbed a 14mm x 1.50 bolt and went at it.
> View attachment 693570
> 
> 
> I noticed there's a pretty good sized hole left exposed to the combustion chamber. View attachment 693577
> 
> 
> It calculates out to the equivalent of adding .0215" to the squish band which lessens compression some. I decided to machine down the smaller bolt on the right in the picture above to match that area perfectly to eliminate it. The copper washer also needed opened up a little on the inside to fit the plug. I'll make another plug out of aluminum to replace it if it creates a hot spot. View attachment 693585
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the piece I cut from the end of the 14mm bolt to finish it off. View attachment 693587
> View attachment 693588
> 
> 
> 
> The increase in compression is a noticeable difference.
> 
> I'll eventually be cutting the base to increase compression enough to need a decomp, so another piece of that 14mm bolt will work perfectly for machining a time-sert to fit a modern decomp.



Nice! That's what I was thinking of doing.


----------



## dpotapov

hmm that's what I did too but I was having doubts it will seal the side hole well and work in a long time ( see where the copper washers are showing, I added a few there ).

now looking at a new cylinder, this hole is not there !!! the decomp valve failure blew that hole ! without that side hole, I have a lot more confidence in a simple DIY plug technique.

BTW, instead of cutting the base to increase compression, maybe it is possible to just make the tip of the plug extend into the cylinder a little more


----------



## Chainsaw Jim

dpotapov said:


> hmm that's what I did too but I was having doubts it will seal the side hole well and work in a long time ( see where the copper washers are showing, I added a few there ).
> 
> now looking at a new cylinder, this hole is not there !!! the decomp valve failure blew that hole ! without that side hole, I have a lot more confidence in a simple DIY plug technique.
> 
> BTW, instead of cutting the base to increase compression, maybe it is possible to just make the tip of the plug extend into the cylinder a little more


It can't leak like that because there isn't a break in the mating surface below the side hole. Using more than one washer shouldn't be necessary. 

Since it's on the way to becoming a gtg/race saw I'll cut a little off the base to get higher compression than what I can get with a longer plug.


----------



## dpotapov

It was not leaking much and was even running like that with the lower piston ring already broken (compression was low but it was running ) but the ring failed completely 
soon after that. It is difficult to tell now how much of the compression loss was due to this hole vs the ring failing and cylinder damage in other places


----------



## LiteItUp

I just ordered a FarmTec 070 kit but have not received it yet and have no experience with this type saw. Bedfords' videos have been most helpful getting ready. I have seen in another chainsaw thread (Stihl 070/090 pulling clutch... Houston we have a problem) where somebody overtightened the clutch nut so the clutch was always engaged, and then couldn't remove the clutch off the Spieth adapter sleeve to fix it. Question - is it possible the FarmTec clutch carrier was made wrong with the "bead" on the wrong side?? I ask this because on page 18 of the 070/090 service manual I have it says to slide the adapter sleeve on the crankshaft, the next step is then to "fit the clutch in position". Putting the Spieth adapter sleeve on first would allow the clutch carrier to come off easier for future repairs because of the taper. What do you all think?


----------



## Bedford T

LiteItUp said:


> I just ordered a FarmTec 070 kit but have not received it yet and have no experience with this type saw. Bedfords' videos have been most helpful getting ready. I have seen in another chainsaw thread (Stihl 070/090 pulling clutch... Houston we have a problem) where somebody overtightened the clutch nut so the clutch was always engaged, and then couldn't remove the clutch off the Spieth adapter sleeve to fix it. Question - is it possible the FarmTec clutch carrier was made wrong with the "bead" on the wrong side?? I ask this because on page 18 of the 070/090 service manual I have it says to slide the adapter sleeve on the crankshaft, the next step is then to "fit the clutch in position". Putting the Spieth adapter sleeve on first would allow the clutch carrier to come off easier for future repairs because of the taper. What do you all think?


First welcome. What I show and write on my website gives you 100% of what you need to know. I have to say people wing it a lot and then whine. Do not change the assembly instructions
Buy a Stihl clutch nut. Do not use the nut that comes with the kit. Tightening it down damages the threads and then it's hard to get it off or you break the crank. It took me 6-7 weeks to get mine. I waited. Will answer any of your questions. 

Did you read the comments under the videos, I don't recall anyone saying they had that problem. Again you have to be Ridgid in how you approach the assembly. You are building a massive saw.

It's hard to absorb everything,






chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Bedford T

Another thing rather than reply solely on a piston stop you can go to the flywheel side and put a wrench on it. 

For those that ingore the caution they can remove the cylinder and take a small block of wood wedged inside to block rotation as they work to remove a stripped nut.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ted Jenkins

I ran into that problem a year or two so I ordered several German valves very high quality. If you have trouble with your you can always contact me. I for saw some issues if I made an insert to house a more modern decomp valve. That is why I decided to stay stock never had any problems. Thanks


----------



## LiteItUp

Thanks for the response Bedford, I'm going to get spare clutch nuts on order. Can you tell me what problems you had with the FarmerTec carb that caused you to replace it with the OEM Tillotson carb? Does the Tillotson take care of those problems?


----------



## Bedford T

LiteItUp said:


> Thanks for the response Bedford, I'm going to get spare clutch nuts on order. Can you tell me what problems you had with the FarmerTec carb that caused you to replace it with the OEM Tillotson carb? Does the Tillotson take care of those problems?


The kit carb gave me no trouble. I said so in the video. I did it soley as an upgrade. I have two. I wanted to upgrade one to the 090. I get so many build questions. Likely 7-8 emails a month where guys are building and they run into something and I need quick access to the saw to snap a photo, it's inside where I can get to it. I would have used the upgraded carb for the 090. I will some day.

The saws spends it's days on it's side. It's the engine oiler. That was my thinking.

When it comes time to tune it remember to disconnect the governor. It's easy to forget. Your needles won't show much change and it will get out of whack. One of the better kits, tuff as nails.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Butter saw

So if I have a large mount bar and change the bar tip and the clutch drum from 404 to 3/8, I could run a 3/8 chain on an 070? Is there a clutch drum made for that or is it a custom fab shop jobbie?
I have been reading about people converting the 070 to 3/8 with no luck. The oiler holes and such is off. Is it because they try to use the wrong bar?


----------



## Bedford T

Butter saw said:


> So if I have a large mount bar and change the bar tip and the clutch drum from 404 to 3/8, I could run a 3/8 chain on an 070? Is there a clutch drum made for that or is it a custom fab shop jobbie?
> I have been reading about people converting the 070 to 3/8 with no luck. The oiler holes and such is off. Is it because they try to use the wrong bar?


Stihl currently makes zero bars of any pitch that fit the 070/090 no matter what their literature says. Cannon and others do in .404 hard nose or sprocket.

The saw is not meant to use 3/8. They offer/ed a regular clutch drum and a rim sprocket kit in .404

It's larger chain for a larger saw. You need to just invest in the .404 to get the full benefit from the saw.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bed has this correct there is no downside to running 404. There are down sides to running 3/8''. I shopped around until I found some rollomatics for my 070's they are 404's. However there are many sources for large mount bars. Grab one. I only use roller tip on all my saws. As I have said before many places in many thread making a 3/8'' is possible because I have done it. And I am sure that there are other ways to accomplish this. You get a 22 MM rim clutch take the 404 rim off and put a 22 MM 3/8 rim on it. You get a large mount bar pull the 404 tip off and put a 3/8 tip back on. The 3/8 chain needs to be a 063. As they say walk in the park. When I first did the conversion I did it with parts laying around then tried to order new. Wasted time. For saws that can pull 404 they are hard to beat. Thanks


----------



## Butter saw

Thanks for the info. I have an old cannon 404 063. Actually just ran out and cut a 37" slab piece of red oak that's sitting in my log graveyard in driveway.
I was really just looking for a way to speed things up. A little jealous of my buddy's 3/8 blue meanie. Cuts faster and smoother. Thanks again. Really enjoy the banter 
Kev


----------



## Bedford T

Butter saw said:


> Thanks for the info. I have an old cannon 404 063. Actually just ran out and cut a 37" slab piece of red oak that's sitting in my log graveyard in driveway.
> I was really just looking for a way to speed things up. A little jealous of my buddy's 3/8 blue meanie. Cuts faster and smoother. Thanks again. Really enjoy the banter
> Kev


The machine you have has much more grunt than the 660. I find people buy these thinking they are faster. If that's what you really are after...

I don't recommend this, your saw possibly will not last as long.

Remove the choke linkage. I would up my oil to at least 32:1. You likely have to adjust the carb, should readjust your carb. My suggestion is to tune no higher than 11000. That is based on old documents newly shared here.

I told you that to show you, you have a very capable saw and need not want. Only advantage your buddy has his saw is lighter and but your chain will be wetter than his.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## rags44mag

Hello folks, just a little info. for you in case it would be helpful.

I had a cracked oil tank sight glass & while I could find a replacement, I was not inclined to pay $20+ for another piece of plastic. Did a little measuring & head scratching & came up with a solution.

I found that the threads in the oil tank were 29.5mm X 1.5mm thread.
Kept digging & found something that I could try to use, metric oil sight glass (30mm X 1.5MM) on the Bay for a VEARY reasonable price.

I ordered one each of the aluminum & brass sight glasses, the brass one was actually listed as being 29.8mm OD threaded. The brass was about three times heavier but it actually fits the recessed casting in the tank better. The aluminum ones need to have the outer rim ground down maybe a 32nd of an inch to fit nicely, then they work great as well.

Just thought I would throw this out there just in case it would help someone out.


----------



## Phramer Phil

After melting down my 066 for a 2nd time while milling, I had a vision in which I was instructed by saw gods to build a dedicated milling powerhead, the largest I could assemble with the finest of Chineseum. 

The clutch included in the kit is best described as "meh" and 090 clutches are back on the 'bay for the lowest price I have ever seen ($200 w/free shipping here in the states). I will keep the kit pieces as spares.

The next (albeit small) hurdle is finding a suitable clutch drum to convert from spur (ick) to floating sprocket. Every Oregon 12004 listing I have seen was asking north of $200, which is absurd (to me). I plan on purchasing from an Australian seller who can get it here for $62. I think I can save on shipping by ordering more than one, any takers?

Last but not least was the 66mm piston kit. I think I purchased a Hyway brand, will verify later.


----------



## Absolution

Phramer Phil said:


> After melting down my 066 for a 2nd time while milling, I had a vision in which I was instructed by saw gods to build a dedicated milling powerhead, the largest I could assemble with the finest of Chineseum.
> 
> The clutch included in the kit is best described as "meh" and 090 clutches are back on the 'bay for the lowest price I have ever seen ($200 w/free shipping here in the states). I will keep the kit pieces as spares.
> 
> The next (albeit small) hurdle is finding a suitable clutch drum to convert from spur (ick) to floating sprocket. Every Oregon 12004 listing I have seen was asking north of $200, which is absurd (to me). I plan on purchasing from an Australian seller who can get it here for $62. I think I can save on shipping by ordering more than one, any takers?
> 
> Last but not least was the 66mm piston kit. I think I purchased a Hyway brand, will verify later.




I bought my 090 clutch with all parts except drum for $200 from a guy in Australia. Guy was pretty cool and knowledgeable.


----------



## Bedford T

Phramer Phil said:


> After melting down my 066 for a 2nd time while milling, I had a vision in which I was instructed by saw gods to build a dedicated milling powerhead, the largest I could assemble with the finest of Chineseum.
> 
> The clutch included in the kit is best described as "meh" and 090 clutches are back on the 'bay for the lowest price I have ever seen ($200 w/free shipping here in the states). I will keep the kit pieces as spares.
> 
> The next (albeit small) hurdle is finding a suitable clutch drum to convert from spur (ick) to floating sprocket. Every Oregon 12004 listing I have seen was asking north of $200, which is absurd (to me). I plan on purchasing from an Australian seller who can get it here for $62. I think I can save on shipping by ordering more than one, any takers?
> 
> Last but not least was the 66mm piston kit. I think I purchased a Hyway brand, will verify later.


I have not seen a hyway, make sure the impulse is in right spot and don't forget a real clutch nut. The nut is at fault for many of clutch issues.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Phramer Phil

Bedford T said:


> I have not seen a hyway, make sure the impulse is in right spot and don't forget a real clutch nut. The nut is at fault for many of clutch issues.



Inspected the 66mm P&C yesterday, no brand name but it looks remarkably similar to yours. I also noticed my kit is missing the infamous felt washer, I'll probably order some from Mcmaster along with a clutch nut and some upgraded hardware. 

Thoughts:
I'm half-tempted to do a base gasket delete, I don't recall seeing if anyone has done this yet.
Cylinder will be getting cleaned up, the plating is fine and it has good crosshatching but the transfer ports are pretty fuzzy.


----------



## Bedford T

Phramer Phil said:


> Inspected the 66mm P&C yesterday, no brand name but it looks remarkably similar to yours. I also noticed my kit is missing the infamous felt washer, I'll probably order some from Mcmaster along with a clutch nut and some upgraded hardware.
> 
> Thoughts:
> I'm half-tempted to do a base gasket delete, I don't recall seeing if anyone has done this yet.
> Cylinder will be getting cleaned up, the plating is fine and it has good crosshatching but the transfer ports are pretty fuzzy.


That clutch nut and washer I encourage you to order those from the dealer. The felt washer is made to work correct thickness and the like, I used a husky on one project but it was to thin, I changed it out. On the nut I don't think you will find the right one. Parts number and a picture is on my website if that might be helpful.

I would use the gasket, it needs no help in that area. After you use it some you will begin to have to start it mindfully or it will damage your hand and shoulder. People think something is wrong, when those rings seat, damn it's got compression. You must start it by pulling slowly until it catches, then yank or you will regret it. I think folks crank their 660 and then when they grab the 070 they yank with muscle memory and it tries to damage their body they think something is wrong, it's just a beast.

Their cylinders don't get a lot of detailed attention so it can vary in finish, but the 070 is generally much better than the other sizes.

If you have not put your cylinder on you might give the decomp some thought, replacing it with oem is good insurance and it's better to have it off to replace it. When you get done it will be a dependable work horse

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Phramer Phil

Bedford T said:


> That clutch nut and washer I encourage you to order those from the dealer. The felt washer is made to work correct thickness and the like, I used a husky on one project but it was to thin, I changed it out. On the nut I don't think you will find the right one. Parts number and a picture is on my website if that might be helpful.
> 
> Their cylinders don't get a lot of detailed attention so it can vary in finish, but the 070 is generally much better than the other sizes.
> 
> If you have not put your cylinder on you might give the decomp some thought, replacing it with oem is good insurance and it's better to have it off to replace it. When you get done it will be a dependable work horse


Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to research these kits! I suppose that I can always remove the base gasket in case my pool-noodle sized arms need more of a challenge.

Dumb question: What is the purpose of the felt washer? I will order an OEM felt washer and clutch nut at your behest but I do plan on comparing them to the items I sourced from other hardware suppliers.

M10x1.0 LH Zinc plated steel nut (Class 8). I mic'd the one provided in the kit and the CAD drawing matches it. 17mm across the flats and 8mm tall.
Felt Washer, .500" ID x 1.250" OD x .230-.270" (6mm) 

Updates:
- Ordered a floating sprocket clutch drum from Australia, just under $60 US shipped.
- When I line up the 090 cylinder and carb spacer by the impulse port, the intake port and bolt holes don't quite line up horizontally. I am using this as an excuse to do some port matching while I wait for the clutch drum to arrive.
- I found a place in the UK that stocks all of the 090 AV handles and hardware (I think it was around $300 for everything), sadly they do not currently ship to the US.


----------



## Bedford T

Phramer Phil said:


> Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to research these kits! I suppose that I can always remove the base gasket in case my pool-noodle sized arms need more of a challenge.
> 
> Dumb question: What is the purpose of the felt washer? I will order an OEM felt washer and clutch nut at your behest but I do plan on comparing them to the items I sourced from other hardware suppliers.
> 
> M10x1.0 LH Zinc plated steel nut (Class 8). I mic'd the one provided in the kit and the CAD drawing matches it. 17mm across the flats and 8mm tall.
> Felt Washer, .500" ID x 1.250" OD x .230-.270" (6mm)
> 
> Updates:
> - Ordered a floating sprocket clutch drum from Australia, just under $60 US shipped.
> - When I line up the 090 cylinder and carb spacer by the impulse port, the intake port and bolt holes don't quite line up horizontally. I am using this as an excuse to do some port matching while I wait for the clutch drum to arrive.
> - I found a place in the UK that stocks all of the 090 AV handles and hardware (I think it was around $300 for everything), sadly they do not currently ship to the US.


I was just giving you my best advice based on feedback from people all over the world in many languages that contact me through utube. I am sure you will enjoy your journey.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Phramer Phil

After some fitting, filing and porting I got the rest of the saw together and fired 'er up. I definitely need to read up on how to tune this thing, having a heck of time starting it w/o the throttle being 1/2 open.

That said, I managed to 'tater the flywheel tapered seat into oblivion, the crank and flywheel taper definitely need some lapping and fine tuning. Took a chunk out of the crank keyway and the coil too. Replacement flywheel is on the way, any advice on tuning would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Bedford T

Flywheel nut

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bedford T said:


> That clutch nut and washer I encourage you to order those from the dealer. The felt washer is made to work correct thickness and the like, I used a husky on one project but it was to thin, I changed it out. On the nut I don't think you will find the right one. Parts number and a picture is on my website if that might be helpful.
> 
> I would use the gasket, it needs no help in that area. After you use it some you will begin to have to start it mindfully or it will damage your hand and shoulder. People think something is wrong, when those rings seat, damn it's got compression. You must start it by pulling slowly until it catches, then yank or you will regret it. I think folks crank their 660 and then when they grab the 070 they yank with muscle memory and it tries to damage their body they think something is wrong, it's just a beast.
> 
> Their cylinders don't get a lot of detailed attention so it can vary in finish, but the 070 is generally much better than the other sizes.
> 
> If you have not put your cylinder on you might give the decomp some thought, replacing it with oem is good insurance and it's better to have it off to replace it. When you get done it will be a dependable work horse
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy



Bed you are dead on on this. Yes the nut has to be really correct. Why would any one want to delete the gasket. You will want to put the gasket back in ASAP.
With the larger cylinder it even more fun to keep your shoulder intact. I have a routine to start that has proven reliable. Pullwith ignition off or use decomp is almost eccential. I messed with my decomps quite a bit until they feel just right. With larger cut jobs these have proved to a beast that just plain gets the work done. To use 3/8 chain you will need to get a large mount bar change tip to 3/8 and use a drum with 3/8. Throw a 063 3/8 chain on it and then you will want the 404 back on it ASAP. *I do not recommend using 3/8 chain. *It can be done however. Thanks


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Phramer Phil said:


> After some fitting, filing and porting I got the rest of the saw together and fired 'er up. I definitely need to read up on how to tune this thing, having a heck of time starting it w/o the throttle being 1/2 open.
> 
> That said, I managed to 'tater the flywheel tapered seat into oblivion, the crank and flywheel taper definitely need some lapping and fine tuning. Took a chunk out of the crank keyway and the coil too. Replacement flywheel is on the way, any advice on tuning would be greatly appreciated. View attachment 741699
> View attachment 741700




I have managed to repair at least one crank that was damaged. I welded up the damage stuck it on the lathe with the con rod installed. I heat treated the end of the crank on a conservitive basis reinstalled and started her up. That was about 6 years ago and she still runs with no problems. However with the amount of work do not think that I will do it again. Thanks


----------



## Phramer Phil

Ted Jenkins said:


> Bed you are dead on on this. Yes the nut has to be really correct. Why would any one want to delete the gasket. You will want to put the gasket back in ASAP.
> With the larger cylinder it even more fun to keep your shoulder intact. I have a routine to start that has proven reliable. Pullwith ignition off or use decomp is almost eccential. I messed with my decomps quite a bit until they feel just right. With larger cut jobs these have proved to a beast that just plain gets the work done. To use 3/8 chain you will need to get a large mount bar change tip to 3/8 and use a drum with 3/8. Throw a 063 3/8 chain on it and then you will want the 404 back on it ASAP. *I do not recommend using 3/8 chain. *It can be done however. Thanks



Thankfully I opted to keep the gasket. Good gravy this thing has some pop.
I have 404 7T and 8T floating sprockets on hand, just waiting on the drum from Australia. I do not plan on running 3/8 on this saw as it will be dedicated to milling.

To me it seemed as more an issue with the tapered portion of the hub being incorrect and the nut/crankshaft end not being able to achieve preload, which in turn let the flywheel hub spread/expand, bottom out then go kablooey. The nut didn't come loose (surprisingly).


----------



## Bedford T

Phramer Phil said:


> Thankfully I opted to keep the gasket. Good gravy this thing has some pop.
> I have 404 7T and 8T floating sprockets on hand, just waiting on the drum from Australia. I do not plan on running 3/8 on this saw as it will be dedicated to milling.
> 
> To me it seemed as more an issue with the tapered portion of the hub being incorrect and the nut/crankshaft end not being able to achieve preload, which in turn let the flywheel hub spread/expand, bottom out then go kablooey. The nut didn't come loose (surprisingly).


The nut was not tight enough and the nut that comes in the kit will not tighten tight enough the OEM nut will. We're trying to tell you what the problem was and what the best uses and so forth are and if that's not any help I'm not sure I have anything more to offer to you on my end. Sounds like you're excited and and that's great, fortunately if it breaks you can just fix it. No harm it'll just keep you busy.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Leafy

How can a nut not get tight enough? Unless it's so soft if metal it's actually deforming or it's supposed to have a relief in it to prevent bottoming that isn't they're I can't see it.


----------



## Bedford T

Leafy said:


> How can a nut not get tight enough? Unless it's so soft if metal it's actually deforming or it's supposed to have a relief in it to prevent bottoming that isn't they're I can't see it.


I can't answer that question. I have no idea what makes a nut a good nut. I can just tell you that if you use an OEM nut installed properly that won't happen. I'm no engineer I don't know any engineers.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


----------



## Phramer Phil

Leafy said:


> How can a nut not get tight enough? Unless it's so soft if metal it's actually deforming or it's supposed to have a relief in it to prevent bottoming that isn't they're I can't see it.


W/o getting too complicated it has to do with the class of thread fit, torque and creating enough stretch (aka preload) between the crank and nut that will keep things clamped together. Loctite is great and all, but one should not have to rely on a band-aid fix to keep something like a clutch or a flywheel from coming loose. 

Bedford is correct, the provided clutch (and flywheel) nuts do not have the either correct material spec or thread fit class to be of much use. I could've sworn that I read to only replace the clutch nut with OEM... Oh well, live and learn. 

FWIW, I'm fairly certain that the crankshaft washers are micarta, not leather.


----------



## Phramer Phil

Threw on a 41" bar and 404 and milled a bunch of +30" red cedar yesterday. The power and torque is awesome! I wish I had purchased this years ago.

Notes: This thing vibrates and shakes a lot. One of the oil tank bolts backed out along with one of the exhaust studs despite being properly torqued and treated with Rocksett. After 1 freehand test cut I have absolutely no desire to try and drop or buck a tree with one.

large displacement = big power = lotsa heat, I melted the spark plug boot.

The 2 front cylinder head bolts broke off on the 2nd to last slab left. Finished the job with my '66.

Despite these hiccups, I am very impressed by the performance of the powerhead and chain combo.


----------



## Pioneer620

Hello Bedford T, I just read your warning about the Farmertec 070 kit and the fuel port. I just bought a kit 2 weeks ago. What do I need to look for? Also I have assembled over half the saw. Thanks for the videos! A super help. I also subscribed!


----------



## Mark Price2

I just built one of the Chinese 090 clones and from what I saw (no pun intended) it was not bad, but the Decompression valve look a bit suspect. Has anyone changed to valve over to a Stihl 066 decompression valve? Looks like it would only require a 10x1.5 MM bolt tapped out to 10X1mm to sleeve the existing decompression valve and then re-drilling the cover to accommodate the new location. Anyone's thoughts?


----------



## Bedford T

Pioneer620 said:


> Hello Bedford T, I just read your warning about the Farmertec 070 kit and the fuel port. I just bought a kit 2 weeks ago. What do I need to look for? Also I have assembled over half the saw. Thanks for the videos! A super help. I also subscribed!


Sorry I did not see your post. I visit much less often. You can reach me anytime through youtube. 









the1chainsawguy


Welcome, let's talk chainsaw type stuff. I like to build them. I bet you would too, and I would like to give you the opportunity to see and share in the experience and see if you might like it as well. I find it an interesting journey and a lot of fun at the end. An interesting aspect is the kits




thechainsawkitguy.com













the1chainsawguy


This channel is committed to sharing the greatest hobby of all time chainsaw maintenance with a liberal dose of other Stihl 2 cycle products covered. For the...




youtube.com


----------



## Bedford T

Mark Price2 said:


> I just built one of the Chinese 090 clones and from what I saw (no pun intended) it was not bad, but the Decompression valve look a bit suspect. Has anyone changed to valve over to a Stihl 066 decompression valve? Looks like it would only require a 10x1.5 MM bolt tapped out to 10X1mm to sleeve the existing decompression valve and then re-drilling the cover to accommodate the new location. Anyone's thoughts?


I would change the decompression valve out with a oem 070/090 valve. On these you do it with the top off. The compression is much greater that a 660. I did a recent video on changes that should be made to keep your saw in top shape. That is one of the changes and adding a crush washer. I will post the video below











the1chainsawguy


Welcome, let's talk chainsaw type stuff. I like to build them. I bet you would too, and I would like to give you the opportunity to see and share in the experience and see if you might like it as well. I find it an interesting journey and a lot of fun at the end. An interesting aspect is the kits




thechainsawkitguy.com













the1chainsawguy


This channel is committed to sharing the greatest hobby of all time chainsaw maintenance with a liberal dose of other Stihl 2 cycle products covered. For the...




youtube.com


----------



## Justsaws

The decomp from a Stihl 660 or a Husqvarna 395 do not allow enough air to move. They will snap shut before the piston is pulled over, everytime.


----------



## 67L36Driver

Justsaws said:


> The decomp from a Stihl 660 or a Husqvarna 395 do not allow enough air to move. They will snap shut before the piston is pulled over, everytime.



I’ve drilled the bleed port oversized on several large Stihls. The latest being a MS460.

The MS880 being absolutely necessary. [emoji21]

We are an upper body strength challenged geezer. [emoji6]


----------



## Mark Price2

Justsaws said:


> The decomp from a Stihl 660 or a Husqvarna 395 do not allow enough air to move. They will snap shut before the piston is pulled over, everytime.


Well i must be too bull headed once I get a plan in my mind. I went ahead and center drilled and tapped a 14 x 1.5 mm bolt, cut it off and had to file the last few outside threads down to the root diameter but it sealed great on the copper washer. I left a small hole at the end of the bolt and installed a 084 decompression valve in the bolt. Then I used JB Weld to fill the old decompression button hole in the cover and drilled a new one for the new decomp valve. Repainted the cover and well since I had gone to all that trouble I installed Stihl badges ( in 42 years I have never sold a saw and do not plan on starting now}. It looks good and is so much easier to start!! Yes I need to push the decomp each time I pull the cord but at least I do not have to try to hang on to it AND hold the button down at the same time. A great improvement and it starts on the second or third pull. I'll try to post a video of it running in a day or so once the clear coat is hard.


----------



## Rags

Mark Price2 said:


> Well i must be too bull headed once I get a plan in my mind. I went ahead and center drilled and tapped a 14 x 1.5 mm bolt, cut it off and had to file the last few outside threads down to the root diameter but it sealed great on the copper washer. I left a small hole at the end of the bolt and installed a 084 decompression valve in the bolt. Then I used JB Weld to fill the old decompression button hole in the cover and drilled a new one for the new decomp valve. Repainted the cover and well since I had gone to all that trouble I installed Stihl badges ( in 42 years I have never sold a saw and do not plan on starting now}. It looks good and is so much easier to start!! Yes I need to push the decomp each time I pull the cord but at least I do not have to try to hang on to it AND hold the button down at the same time. A great improvement and it starts on the second or third pull. I'll try to post a video of it running in a day or so once the clear coat is hard.
> 
> View attachment 850702


I MUST say bravo Mike. I have 2 Yuzhoukee clones that I have been needing to get around to doing this same type of mod. to. One is still 105cc & the other has the 090 P&C. Thanks for beating me to it as far as the craft work of finding the right combo of parts & mods. to make this work.
Thanks again for the info & hope you have a great day.


----------



## Mark Price2

Rags said:


> I MUST say bravo Mike. I have 2 Yuzhoukee clones that I have been needing to get around to doing this same type of mod. to. One is still 105cc & the other has the 090 P&C. Thanks for beating me to it as far as the craft work of finding the right combo of parts & mods. to make this work.
> Thanks again for the info & hope you have a great day.



So here is what is behind the covers....


----------



## Donnieol

Hello guys, it's been a while since this thread has seen action so I thought I would ask a few questions, I only recently saw these saws, they are interesting and from the looks at some of the videos they look pretty well made. I'm looking at this as a hobby and might one day do some milling myself.
I tried to read the whole thread but I might have missed some things.

How do these stand now? I missed out on the $280.00 pre built ones at Holzffarma with free shipping - maybe they'll be back, the kits are $400.00? If the kits were cheap enough I would be willing to try it.
Is the consensus that these are worth buying or building?, I am buying at a G660 kit right now but I don't know if I could resist a new 070 copy for 280.

I saw several chinese factories that make these, is there any one that's better than the rest?

Thanks, I appreciate all the info and videos for all the saws.

Dave


----------



## Bedford T

I can only speak for myself, my experience is with FarmerTec. Yes it's worth it. After I built one or two I settled into the fact changes were needed to make it fun and dependable. If you are on a tight budget and only want to spend the very least you are gonna have problems. I mean after the purchase.

All the problems can be overcome. My website has part#s and gives feedback on what needs attention so building one is the only way you can get it done without a lot of trouble. http://the chainsawkitguy.com

Generally if you take your time and build it don't do much to it. It will work but it will soon begin to want to pull your arm off, literally and or the decomp pin will fall down and wreck your top end. Frequently the clutch falls apart simply because of vibration. Again all these these can be addressed and you will have a saw that is perfect for milling and nothing else because of the weight. But man can it cut. It's slow yet very powerful.

I heard they had a 880 down the road. Hope you have fun. I always do.


----------



## Maintenance supervisor

blsnelling said:


> I simply don't care for a counterfeit product, regardless of what it is. That's exactly what these are.








Want to have 69 Camaro built from scratch, who does this? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com


Want to have 69 Camaro built from scratch, who does this? 1st & 2nd Generation Camaros



www.camaro5.com


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Bedford T said:


> I can only speak for myself, my experience is with FarmerTec. Yes it's worth it. After I built one or two I settled into the fact changes were needed to make it fun and dependable. If you are on a tight budget and only want to spend the very least you are gonna have problems. I mean after the purchase.
> 
> All the problems can be overcome. My website has part#s and gives feedback on what needs attention so building one is the only way you can get it done without a lot of trouble. http://the chainsawkitguy.com
> 
> Generally if you take your time and build it don't do much to it. It will work but it will soon begin to want to pull your arm off, literally and or the decomp pin will fall down and wreck your top end. Frequently the clutch falls apart simply because of vibration. Again all these these can be addressed and you will have a saw that is perfect for milling and nothing else because of the weight. But man can it cut. It's slow yet very powerful.
> 
> I heard they had a 880 down the road. Hope you have fun. I always do.


Bed now quit bashing my saws. The 070 is not a feather weight but it sure does get the job done. I bought genuine Stihl for many years with out takes any shortcuts. The saw line up kept getting pricey and less and less reliable. Bought my first 070 over five years ago and yes had some problems. The first biggest was the decomp valve. Some modifications were in order, has worked perfectly since. I will put it up against any thing currently made. Nothing can compare to it's reliability. I can change carburetors in the field in two hours or less. About the same time I can pull the carb put in a fresh kit and be running with out fuss. The newer 661 is lighter and fast but it pulls a smaller chain which needs more attention. It can not be worked on in the field so what value is it. Thanks


----------



## 2broke2ride

I'm goingn to dredge up this thread again!!! I just pulled the trigger on the 070 parts kit. It will be my first build. I am.lookingnforward to the challenge. I have read all 50 pages of this thread as well as watching a bunch of the videos. 
Have any of the earlier "problems" with missing and /or inferior parts been corrected by now?


----------



## Bedford T

Your question is hard to answer because besides this thread I don't know what you have seen. Parts can be a random problem based on the mold used in that run. My website has information on this kit and tells you what to replace to have a very good saw. The ignition information should be of interest to you because it'll jerk your arm off in short order. I cut a lot of wood with mine milling it's too heavy to fell with it. Good luck with your project the kits are a great way to learn.


----------



## 2broke2ride

Bedford T said:


> Your question is hard to answer because besides this thread I don't know what you have seen. Parts can be a random problem based on the mold used in that run. My website has information on this kit and tells you what to replace to have a very good saw. The ignition information should be of interest to you because it'll jerk your arm off in short order. I cut a lot of wood with mine milling it's too heavy to fell with it. Good luck with your project the kits are a great way to learn.


I was referencing things like the clutch nut and the decomp.......thanks for all the videos, I was up until 1am watching the whole series lol.


----------



## Bedford T

The supply chain then was a problem for some of those parts you may need google to show you vendors out of Germany for a few. I hope my videos are helpful. I just did not know what videos you watched, not that would help guide you if they weren't mine. Some of the information was not available until long after the builds, particularly the ignition update. That took trial and error. Those dang washers were super helpful. This thing is tuff on the head bolts. They can work loose in one sesson, even the oem saw. The washers stopped that, a guy in another country pointed them out to me. So there is enough info to keep you busy for a while and provide you with a great saw


----------



## Lightning Performance

Phramer Phil said:


> Threw on a 41" bar and 404 and milled a bunch of +30" red cedar yesterday. The power and torque is awesome! I wish I had purchased this years ago.
> 
> Notes: This thing vibrates and shakes a lot. One of the oil tank bolts backed out along with one of the exhaust studs despite being properly torqued and treated with Rocksett. After 1 freehand test cut I have absolutely no desire to try and drop or buck a tree with one.
> 
> large displacement = big power = lotsa heat, I melted the spark plug boot.
> 
> The 2 front cylinder head bolts broke off on the 2nd to last slab left. Finished the job with my '66.
> 
> Despite these hiccups, I am very impressed by the performance of the powerhead and chain combo.


Not good breaking that much chit on a typical run in cedar no less.
Try some oak.


Mark Price2 said:


> Well i must be too bull headed once I get a plan in my mind. I went ahead and center drilled and tapped a 14 x 1.5 mm bolt, cut it off and had to file the last few outside threads down to the root diameter but it sealed great on the copper washer. I left a small hole at the end of the bolt and installed a 084 decompression valve in the bolt. Then I used JB Weld to fill the old decompression button hole in the cover and drilled a new one for the new decomp valve. Repainted the cover and well since I had gone to all that trouble I installed Stihl badges ( in 42 years I have never sold a saw and do not plan on starting now}. It looks good and is so much easier to start!! Yes I need to push the decomp each time I pull the cord but at least I do not have to try to hang on to it AND hold the button down at the same time. A great improvement and it starts on the second or third pull. I'll try to post a video of it running in a day or so once the clear coat is hard.
> 
> View attachment 850702


Nice job.
That is not an 084 decomp valve.
088/880 yes.


Ted Jenkins said:


> Bed now quit bashing my saws. The 070 is not a feather weight but it sure does get the job done. I bought genuine Stihl for many years with out takes any shortcuts. The saw line up kept getting pricey and less and less reliable. Bought my first 070 over five years ago and yes had some problems. The first biggest was the decomp valve. Some modifications were in order, has worked perfectly since. I will put it up against any thing currently made. Nothing can compare to it's reliability. I can change carburetors in the field in two hours or less. About the same time I can pull the carb put in a fresh kit and be running with out fuss. The newer 661 is lighter and fast but it pulls a smaller chain which needs more attention. It can not be worked on in the field so what value is it. Thanks


Seems like he wants you to read the fifty pages here.
Swapped my 084 carb from saw to saw in the field last friday in fifteen minutes on my tailgate.

-----

I read page one and fifty only because page fifty one had only one post.

First off is this rattlebox even worth considering when you already run 084s?

Secondly, with the G880 already out there now is this worth converting to an 090 dinosaurs at all?
It's a serious question if you mill big stuff.

Third has anyone converted or updated this ancient ignition system and flywheel to a mag fired setup that is not under the flywheel?

-----

Give me all good points for milling, please, I'm all ears. Already know most the downsides so no need to hash that over.

Bet this post gets nothing after fifty pages of whatever over five years. Most of you know who I am and those who don't lets hear all about your 070 or 090 clone issues or not. Just a nuddher greenhorn looking at a big heavy thing and wondering if it worth messing with.


----------



## Bedford T

So you are well know and so must be an expert and you come into a old thread wanting people to make it longer by telling you things you actually don't care about. That seems odd. Why not just read the thread and learn what happened but then you said you don't like to read. These saws are not for experts and famous people. 

Quoting odd things some not even related is odd too. You must have been sent by the admins to drum up posting. So sad. Youmust work cheap. Good luck on your new gig


----------



## 2broke2ride

And so it begins!!!


----------



## 2broke2ride

Managed to get the crankcase, fuel tank, and oil tank assembled after dinner tonight.


----------



## 2broke2ride

We will see of she runs this weekend. Only issue I had was I had to grind the thickness of the sprocket down a bit. It was just slightly too thick so when I tightened the clutch it would bind the sprocket.


----------



## Woodslasher

Bedford T said:


> Quoting odd things some not even related is odd too. You must have been sent by the admins to drum up posting. So sad. You must work cheap. Good luck on your new gig


Nope, he's not sent by the admins he's just like that. For some reason every now and again guys will feel the need to dredge up dead and long-dead threads and add their two bits to them.


----------



## 2broke2ride

Well, bad news. Filled her with fuel and oil, choked her and pulled and pulled and pulled some more........ never even let out a hiccup. Tried a squirt of fuel down the intake, nothing. Checked for spark, no spark. Checked all wire connections, tried a different plug, unhooked the kill wire, even ran a new spark plug lead since the kit came with an extra. Looks like I got a bad coil/stator I have an email into the vendor I purchased from, we will see what he says.


----------



## Maintenance supervisor

2broke2ride said:


> Well, bad news. Filled her with fuel and oil, choked her and pulled and pulled and pulled some more........ never even let out a hiccup. Tried a squirt of fuel down the intake, nothing. Checked for spark, no spark. Checked all wire connections, tried a different plug, unhooked the kill wire, even ran a new spark plug lead since the kit came with an extra. Looks like I got a bad coil/stator I have an email into the vendor I purchased from, we will see what he says.


 Ofcourse the one thing that can't be fixed with a wrench or screwdriver!


----------

