# Stihl MS271



## Spectre468 (Mar 23, 2014)

What do you all think about this saw? I'm looking at one for general use. I have saws in the 30-35 cc and 56-64 cc range. I was thinking that this would be a good mid-range saw to add to my line up. I would use it when the little saws would be too small, but the task at hand doesn't require a bigger saw. I know my bigger saws are not truly BIG saws, but you get the point. This on would be mostly used for woods clean up around the property, mostly pinon pine less than 10" diameter. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and replies!


----------



## bryanr2 (Mar 23, 2014)

First, What other models do you have?


----------



## missedbass (Mar 23, 2014)

Have mine for 2 years and its been great. No problems at all.


----------



## cedarshark (Mar 23, 2014)

I have a MS280 and several 026s. I prefer the 026. Much easier to work on and better built.


----------



## woodchipper95 (Mar 23, 2014)

cedarshark said:


> I have a MS280 and several 026s. I prefer the 026. Much easier to work on and better built.


Need to come to the husky side. Don't have much experience with the home/ranch saws but our farm has stihl saws and my personal saw is a husky. After I spent a whole day running huskys at my dealer I believe they they run better and feel better. Only thing I can not attest to is the husky durability since I haven't had one very long.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 23, 2014)

bryan, I have all stihls. ms180, 210, 029, 290, 360, 390.


----------



## MS460WOODCHUCK (Mar 23, 2014)

I personally would sell the 029 and 290 and replace it with a 271 and have money left after buying the 271 for more chains, files, mix, bar oil or what ever. No need for them two saws with owning a 390.


----------



## Hlakegollum (Mar 23, 2014)

Go with a 261.


----------



## mike047 (Mar 23, 2014)

Hlakegollum said:


> Go with a 261.


I bought a new 261 several months ago and am actually disappointed in it. I have several old or rebuilt 026's that are far better performing saws.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 23, 2014)

You could replace all of the smaller saws with a 261 or a maybe a 241. A 261 will out cut all of your saws except the 360 and 390. I have never ran a 390 personally. But I know a 261 is better than the 290.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 23, 2014)

mike047 said:


> I bought a new 261 several months ago and am actually disappointed in it. I have several old or rebuilt 026's that are far better performing saws.


Did you retune the carb richer? How many tanks through it? My 261 is the favorite here. What are you comparing it to?


----------



## nomad_archer (Mar 23, 2014)

I have a 271 and have had it for 2 years and I am happy with it once my expectations where set appropriately. I use it for personal firewood so it gets worked throughout the year but it does not get run for months at a time. It has kept me pretty happy it does a really nice job with a 16" bar and is acceptable in softer wood with a 20" bar. At the time I bought it fit my budget nicely and I am still happy with it. If you want a pro grade saw then get one but at least for me the 271 does a nice job and fit the budget. At some point I want a 70cc saw probably a 441 but for now I am happy with the 271.


----------



## MS460WOODCHUCK (Mar 23, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> You could replace all of the smaller saws with a 261 or a maybe a 241. A 261 will out cut all of your saws except maybe the 390. I have never ran a 390 personally. But I know a 261 is better than the 290.



The 360 running correctly and the 390 will out run a factory 261 from my experience. The 390 will pull a 25'' bar when needed and not do a bad job doing it. No the 390 is not a 441, 440, 460 or 461 but it will make the average firewood cutter a fine saw with a 25'' bar.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 23, 2014)

Thanks for the replies, please keep them coming. As for selling the smaller saws, my wife uses them, so that's a no go. The 271 would be a shared saw, sorta her big saw and my little saw.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 23, 2014)

MS460WOODCHUCK said:


> The 360 running correctly and the 390 will out run a factory 261 from my experience. The 390 will pull a 25'' bar when needed and not do a bad job doing it. No the 390 is not a 441, 440, 460 or 461 but it will make the average firewood cutter a fine saw with a 25'' bar.


I'm running 20" bars with 33RS72 chains on the 360 and 390, seem to do what I need. What would I gain by going to a longer bar for either?


----------



## MS460WOODCHUCK (Mar 23, 2014)

Spectre468 said:


> Thanks for the replies, please keep them coming. As for selling the smaller saws, my wife uses them, so that's a no go. The 271 would be a shared saw, sorta her big saw and my little saw.



If you were to replace the 029 and 290 with a 271 they would not be missed with you having the 390, 360 and 271 and you would be money ahead. How does your 360 compare in power vs the 290 and 390?


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 23, 2014)

MS460WOODCHUCK said:


> If you were to replace the 029 and 290 with a 271 they would not be missed with you having the 390, 360 and 271 and you would be money ahead. How does your 360 compare in power vs the 290 and 390?


The 360 falls right between the 290 and 390, leaning closer to the 390.


----------



## MS460WOODCHUCK (Mar 23, 2014)

I'm guessing if you get the 271 it would be your new favorite saw with it being lighter than the 290 and the AV being more user friendly. My local Ace hardware/stihl dealer (not the dealer I buy my saws from because he won't deal on prices) swears that going to the whatever stihl has them go to to says that the 271 out ran the 290 in timed cuts both saws got 5 cuts each and the 271 had 3 cuts that out ran the 290s best time. This is what he said and I believe him because he is a good honest guy.


----------



## SawTroll (Mar 23, 2014)

Spectre468 said:


> The 360 falls right between the 290 and 390, leaning closer to the 390.




Actually, the 360 should be stronger than the 390, despite less cc. It also is a pro saw, vs. cheaply made "homowner" saws, and lighter.

The MS271 is another cheaply made "homeowner" saw.


----------



## AKDoug (Mar 23, 2014)

Why buy a 271? The 291 is the same chassis with a bit bigger engine. It actually weighs about 1 ounce lighter than the 271 too (I've weighed them). They are both about a pound lighter than the 290/029.

From the list you gave, a 251 or a 241 would be a better fit.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 23, 2014)

MS460WOODCHUCK said:


> I'm guessing if you get the 271 it would be your new favorite saw with it being lighter than the 290 and the AV being more user friendly. My local Ace hardware/stihl dealer (not the dealer I buy my saws from because he won't deal on prices) swears that going to the whatever stihl has them go to to says that the 271 out ran the 290 in timed cuts both saws got 5 cuts each and the 271 had 3 cuts that out ran the 290s best time. This is what he said and I believe him because he is a good honest guy.


Interesting.


----------



## MS460WOODCHUCK (Mar 23, 2014)

AKDoug said:


> Why buy a 271? The 291 is the same chassis with a bit bigger engine. It actually weighs about 1 ounce lighter than the 271 too (I've weighed them). They are both about a pound lighter than the 290/029.
> 
> From the list you gave, a 251 or a 241 would be a better fit.



The 291 is 1/4 hp more for an extra 50 bucks so that would depend on the buyer's bank book.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 23, 2014)

Missed that 360 hidden in there.


----------



## AKDoug (Mar 23, 2014)

MS460WOODCHUCK said:


> The 291 is 1/4 hp more for an extra 50 bucks so that would depend on the buyer's bank book.


Very true.


----------



## Hlakegollum (Mar 23, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> Did you retune the carb richer? How many tanks through it? My 261 is the favorite here. What are you comparing it to?


I have an 026 over 20 years old and a 261. The 261 uses less gas. Running 16" bars on both.


----------



## nomad_archer (Mar 23, 2014)

MS460WOODCHUCK said:


> The 291 is 1/4 hp more for an extra 50 bucks so that would depend on the buyer's bank book.



That is why I have a 271. I didnt have the extra cash for the 291. The 271 plus case, 2 cycle, bar oil and extra chains already was more than I had planned for. If I had a do over I may have done something different. Now I cant justify doing something different since the 271 meets all of my firewood needs at this time. CAD is telling me I need to find a huge tree so I have an excuse for a new saw but until then I am happy with my 271. But I am not a pro just a firewood junky.


----------



## JanThorCro (Mar 23, 2014)

I've a used MS270 that I like and now love once I cleaned the carb...


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 23, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> Actually, the 360 should be stronger than the 390, despite less cc. It also is a pro saw, vs. cheaply made "homowner" saws, and lighter.
> 
> The MS271 is another cheaply made "homeowner" saw.


My 360 is the only "pro" saw I have ever owed, and the only one I had any problems with. Burned out the p&c in less thahn 2 seasons, and wan't my only saw at the time.


----------



## GrJfer (Mar 23, 2014)

I only cut for firewood to feed my Hardy outdoor wood boiler. I just bought a new MS271 to complement my MS250. I wanted something for those occasional 24"+ trees I run into. While I only have two tanks of fuel through it so far, it has done well. However it has not given that WOW factor I was hoping for from a bigger than the MS250 saw. I am thinking of cutting my losses and selling it to fund a new Moody MS261. I wish I'd of bought a MS261 in the first place.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 23, 2014)

JanThorCro said:


> I've a used MS270 that I like and now love once I cleaned the carb...


I have one and it is a really nice saw. Runs close to my 261.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 23, 2014)

My local dealer had maintained the 360, and my other saws, to factory recommendations. Wanted $600+ to fix it. Finally did it myself , but I have always thought that my 390 was a better cutter. I have had a bitter taate ever since regarding the pro saws.


----------



## SawTroll (Mar 23, 2014)

Spectre468 said:


> My 360 is the only "pro" saw I have ever owed, and the only one I had any problems with. Burned out the p&c in less thahn 2 seasons, and wan't my only saw at the time.



That usually isn't the saws fault....


----------



## 2dogs (Mar 23, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> I have one and it is a really nice saw. Runs close to my 261.


Really?! I had no idea. I have never run a 270 or a 271.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 23, 2014)

I like the way the hole top comes off the 261,271,291,362 type saws. Makes service real easy everyhing is right there once you pop the top off.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 23, 2014)

2dogs said:


> Really?! I had no idea. I have never run a 270 or a 271.


The 270 was a good saw 50cc 3.4 hp. Uses really soft av mounts and springs so no vibration. Uses a mag chain/lower case. The only downside is that it is a big saw. Not especially small or nimble as a 261 or 550xp ect.


----------



## missedbass (Mar 23, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> Actually, the 360 should be stronger than the 390, despite less cc. It also is a pro saw, vs. cheaply made "homowner" saws, and lighter.
> 
> The MS271 is another cheaply made "homeowner" saw.


 No disrespect troll but its obvious to me that you have not run a 271.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 23, 2014)

The 271 is from Stihls mid range farm/ranch lines. Semi pro saw.


----------



## SawTroll (Mar 23, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> The 271 is from Stihls mid range farm/ranch lines. Semi pro saw.



Definately not a semi pro saw, Stihl doesn't make any semi pro saws currently. Regardless what they call it in marketing, it is built like a "homeowner" saw


----------



## AKDoug (Mar 23, 2014)

You don't NEED a pro-saw to cut 20 cords a year of firewood. It's nice, but it's not needed. I have numerous customers that cut that quantity of wood with MS250s and MS290's that have lasted them for a decade or more. Some folks want to go faster, so they get bigger pro saws.


----------



## SawTroll (Mar 23, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> The 270 was a good saw 50cc 3.4 hp. Uses really soft av mounts and springs so no vibration. Uses a mag chain/lower case. The only downside is that it is a big saw. Not especially small or nimble as a 261 or 550xp ect.



The 270 and 280 were made to higher standards than the 271 and 291 (and the 029/290 of course).


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 23, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> The 270 and 280 were made to higher standards than the 271 and 291 (and the 029/290 of course).


I have not checked out a 271 or 291 in person to say how they are built. Im gonna see whats in stock tomorrow and put my hands on them.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 23, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> That usually isn't the saws fault....


Agreed. I have run saws for about 20 years, had them mainained by the dealer. Never had a problem before or since. I have learned to maintain them myself due to this issue.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 23, 2014)

I have to agree with Doug many saws with lots of plastic put wood on the ground. Some pros use the cheaper saws with good results everyday and are saving money to boot.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 23, 2014)

I may have the chance to pick up a minty 271 for three bills, so I was asking for input to help guide my decision. Thanks for all the replies so far.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 23, 2014)

GrJfer said:


> I only cut for firewood to feed my Hardy outdoor wood boiler. I just bought a new MS271 to complement my MS250. I wanted something for those occasional 24"+ trees I run into. While I only have two tanks of fuel through it so far, it has done well. However it has not given that WOW factor I was hoping for from a bigger than the MS250 saw. I am thinking of cutting my losses and selling it to fund a new Moody MS261. I wish I'd of bought a MS261 in the first place.


The 271 is only a little bigger that your 250 so its not going to be a huge difference. If your getting into 24" trees you could use a lot more saw. I have a 50cc and a 70cc saw. Don't get in over your head. I have no idea what your experience level is but big saws in big wood can get you killed quick.


----------



## missedbass (Mar 23, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> I have not checked out a 271 or 291 in person to say how they are built. Im gonna see whats in stock tomorrow and put my hands on them.


 there was a thread from a member who went to the plant in VA and saw the 271/291's being tested. pretty impressive


----------



## C SAW 090 (Mar 23, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> You could replace all of the smaller saws with a 261 or a maybe a 241. A 261 will out cut all9 of your saws except maybe the 390. I have never ran a 390 personally. But I know a 261 is better than the 290.


A 261


mopar3 said:


> You could replace all of the smaller saws with a 261 or a maybe a 241. A 261 will out cut all of your saws except maybe the 390. I have never ran a 390 personally. But I know a 261 is better than the 290.


A 261 will not out cut a 360,its not even close. I run both saws often.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 23, 2014)

C SAW 090 said:


> A 261
> A 261 will not out cut a 360,its not even close. I run both saws often.


I missed the 360 I know lol


----------



## Twisted Priorities (Mar 23, 2014)

The MS 261 is lighter and has a higher power output than 271 and 291.
Sell the 271, 029, 290, 390. Keep the 360 and buy a 261.
These two saws will outperform all the rest.


----------



## woodchipper95 (Mar 23, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> The 271 is from Stihls mid range farm/ranch lines. Semi pro saw.



Not a semi pro saw, its a ranch/farm saw!!!!


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 23, 2014)

Spectre468 says he can get a mint 271 for 300.00 that's what 260-270.00 less than a 261. That's a tough call.


----------



## Twisted Priorities (Mar 23, 2014)

In Canada a MS 271 goes for $449.95, the 291 $529.99. These saws are built in the US.
The Pro saws are built in Germany. The top ends are different thus more power and no EPA regs.
The MS 261 is $549.99, the MS 261 CM is $649.99. Money well worth spent.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 23, 2014)

My 261 is US made.


----------



## XSKIER (Mar 23, 2014)

Well, My MS 261 C-M VW is German made. and my dad can beat up your dad.

In other news, I feel that the MS 271 is a great saw in the mid range segment. Just recently it was on sale here for $399, which is about the same price my 029 SUPER was 15 years ago.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 23, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> Spectre468 says he can get a mint 271 for 300.00 that's what 260-270.00 less than a 261. That's a tough call.


Yes, it is quite an attractive deal. I'm running 3/8" 0.05 bars and chains on my saws. This 271 is set up for .325. I know it wouldn't be a big deal to switch it over, which I would want to do for commonality of parts. Is there a compelling reason to NOT do this?


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 24, 2014)

Stihl saws under 60cc usually run .325 .063 gauge. It is lighter with smaller teeth helps keep rpms up in the cut I quess. The smaller teeth wear more need sharpened more and there's more of them. People do switch over and run the 3/8. You need to change the sprocket and the bar both. What do your 250 and 180 run. Those must be 325?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nmurph (Mar 24, 2014)

I would sell the 180, 210, 029, 290, and 390. Then I would get a 241 and call it a day.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 24, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> Stihl saws under 60cc usually run .325 .063 gauge. It is lighter with smaller teeth helps keep rpms up in the cut I quess. The smaller teeth wear more need sharpened more and there's more of them. People do switch over and run the 3/8. You need to change the sprocket and the bar both. What do your 250 and 180 run. Those must be 325?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah, obviously the bar, chain, and sprocket must all match!  I'm running the 3/8 picco on the 180 and 210, standard 3/8 on all the others. All wear yellow chains.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 24, 2014)

I wonder if the sprocket from the 290 would swap to the 271 so you could try 3/8 on it without having to buy anything first?


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 24, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> I wonder if the sprocket from the 290 would swap to the 271 so you could try 3/8 on it without having to buy anything first?


That was my plan. The spindles "should" be the same diameter. I would change it out to a rim sprocket as it has a spur now. Haven't hear back from the seller yet, so this may have been all for naught.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 24, 2014)

From what I could find the sprocket for the 261 271 291 are all the same no mention of the 290 so it maybe different. I'm sure if you have them both in your hand it will be obvious if it will work.


----------



## nmurph (Mar 24, 2014)

He has an 036- he needs to dump everything else and buy a 241 if he wants a small limbing saw.

OP- why did the 036 fail the first time? They are very durable saws and a good one will last a homeowner a lifetime.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 24, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> From what I could find the sprocket for the 261 271 291 are all the same no mention of the 290 so it maybe different. I'm sure if you have them both in your hand it will be obvious if it will work.



Yup. The 360 has the "standard" diameter spindle (same as the 44 and 66 series, possibly the 88's as well, but I'm not sure), according to Stihl, which is larger than the "small spline" diameter, which I find on my 029, 290 and 390. The 180 and 210 have an even smaller spindle.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 24, 2014)

nmurph said:


> He has an 036- he needs to dump everything else and buy a 241 if he wants a small limbing saw.
> 
> OP- why did the 036 fail the first time? They are very durable saws and a good one will last a homeowner a lifetime.


His wife uses the smaller saws...


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 24, 2014)

I want a 241cm but I bet my 261 would just sit then.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 24, 2014)

nmurph said:


> He has an 036- he needs to dump everything else and buy a 241 if he wants a small limbing saw.
> 
> OP- why did the 036 fail the first time? They are very durable saws and a good one will last a homeowner a lifetime.



That's what I had thought, too. I have no idea why it failed, and neither could the 3 Stihl dealers that looked at it. My piston and cylinder were scored on the muffler side. I was cutting, noted an inordinate amount of smoke, shut the saw off and let it cool for about 40-45 minutes. Fired it up to finish the cut, ran for about 2 minutes, smoked, stopped running. Let it cool for about 30 minutes and it never started again. My mix was fresh 50:1 with stihl 2 cycle oil, mixed that morning. Used my 029 super to finish the work. 360 sat dead for years as dealers wanted over $600 to repair it. Think I paid around $700-750 new. I finally replaced the p&c myself, only have 2 tanks through it since the repair. Seems to be running well, but not as well as the 390 that I bought to replace it. By tach, I have it set to idle at 2800-2900 rpm and it topping out just below 12000. I figure I'll need to run a few more tanks through it before I can see how the power will be on it. I've been running Moto-mix to break it in. My "homeowner saws" have given me zero problems, knock on wood. That 029 super is about 16 years old and, despite all the negative feelings towards this series expressed on this site, has been a real work horse. I have felled and bucked at least 50 cords with it over the years. I've replaced fuel pick-ups/filters and a "few" chain loops and rim sprockets. I have several air filters for it and will change them out frequently when cutting, clean them at home. It was my first "real" saw and I still really enjoy using it.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 24, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> His wife uses the smaller saws...



Yup. And she is a great cutting partner. Does most of the limbing, clearing, and schlepping when we are out for firewood. Does a lot of her own cutting around the house (we're on about 4 1/2 ac of wooded land, and the bark bettles never seem to rest). Do NOT mess with her saws!


----------



## nmurph (Mar 24, 2014)

Spectre468 said:


> That's what I had thought, too. I have no idea why it failed, and neither could the 3 Stihl dealers that looked at it. My piston and cylinder were scored on the muffler side. I was cutting, noted an inordinate amount of smoke, shut the saw off and let it cool for about 40-45 minutes. Fired it up to finish the cut, ran for about 2 minutes, smoked, stopped running. Let it cool for about 30 minutes and it never started again. My mix was fresh 50:1 with stihl 2 cycle oil, mixed that morning. Used my 029 super to finish the work. 360 sat dead for years as dealers wanted over $600 to repair it. Think I paid around $700-750 new. I finally replaced the p&c myself, only have 2 tanks through it since the repair. Seems to be running well, but not as well as the 390 that I bought to replace it. By tach, I have it set to idle at 2800-2900 rpm and it topping out just below 12000. I figure I'll need to run a few more tanks through it before I can see how the power will be on it. I've been running Moto-mix to break it in. My "homeowner saws" have given me zero problems, knock on wood. That 029 super is about 16 years old and, despite all the negative feelings towards this series expressed on this site, has been a real work horse. I have felled and bucked at least 50 cords with it over the years. I've replaced fuel pick-ups/filters and a "few" chain loops and rim sprockets. I have several air filters for it and will change them out frequently when cutting, clean them at home. It was my first "real" saw and I still really enjoy using it.


 
Exhaust-side only damage is a good indicator of lean tune, air leak (effective results are a lean tune), or pushing too hard with a dull chain and building excess heat in the motor.

Is the idle stable? When you go to wide open throttle out of the cut do the rev's continue to climb?

12,000 rpm is too low. It needs to be at least 13.k for break in and 13.5K after a couple of tanks.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 24, 2014)

nmurph said:


> Exhaust-side only damage is a good indicator of lean tune, air leak (effective results are a lean tune), or pushing too hard with a dull chain and building excess heat in the motor. *I was using a brand new chain. How would I check for an air leak, and from where?*
> 
> Is the idle stable? When you go to wide open throttle out of the cut do the rev's continue to climb? *Idle stable, seems to be "4 stroking"/ burbling while at rest. Yes, as long as I stay on the throttle, the saw revs higher when coming out.*
> 
> 12,000 rpm is too low. It needs to be at least 13.k for break in and 13.5K after a couple of tanks.



When the saw died, it was being maintained by the dealer where I bought it, allegedly to factory spec. I have since been taking care of my saws myself. I am still learning. Got an edt7 tach, and can't believe how helpful it is. My ear isn't anywhere as accurate as I had thought! So, I have the high end set at 11800. Need to bump it up some then? Help me here. I thought that with the H setting, higher rpm = leaner setting. I was leary of burning out the saw again. I know I'm under spec for top end rpms. You think I need to take it up?


----------



## nmurph (Mar 24, 2014)

Yes, but you need to know if you have an air leak. There was a reason for the first failure...if that wasn't corrected, then you will be back there soon. How many turns out is the H needle from seated to get an 11.8K tune? That can tell something about whether or not you have an air leak. I would guess it should be around 1.5-2 from seated to get that rpm. When you rev it to WOT, does it get to max rpm and then begin to climb further? Or is 11.8k all it will ever do regardless of how long you hold it at WOT?

Yes, it needs to be set about 13.0K until you have a few tanks through it.

Yes, higher means leaner, but it is designed to run in a certain rpm range and it's not 11.8K.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 24, 2014)

nmurph said:


> Yes, but you need to know if you have an air leak. There was a reason for the first failure...if that wasn't corrected, then you will be back there soon. How many turns out is the H needle from seated to get an 11.8K tune? That can tell something about whether or not you have an air leak. I would guess it should be around 1.5-2 from seated to get that rpm. When you rev it to WOT, does it get to max rpm and then begin to climb further? Or is 11.8k all it will ever do regardless of how long you hold it at WOT? *I still have my limiters on the H and L screws. The H is at the "standard" setting of 3/4 turn from stop. Yes, it tops out at 11800 at full throttle for a few seconds, out of wood. Haven't kept the tach on when doing cuts. If I move the H screw clockwise, the rpms go up. Would the air leak be in the fuel line?*
> 
> Yes, it needs to be set about 13.0K until you have a few tanks through it.
> 
> Yes, higher means leaner, but it is designed to run in a certain rpm range and it's not 11.8K.


 Copy!


----------



## nmurph (Mar 24, 2014)

That 3/4 only tells you that you have 3/4 of a turn of range. It does not tell you anything about the initial setting of the needle bf the limiter was placed on the needle. You need to remove those limiters so you can tune the saw properly. A course threaded screw can be used to pull them. Just make sure you twist them counter-clockwise as you try to find the detent to release them. Also, try to note how much you turn them and then count the turns it takes to LIGHTLY seat them. You saw should be safe at about 1-1.25 turns out from lightly seated.

You need to know if the rev's continue to climb out of the wood. Go ahead, it won't hurt the saw to run it 5-10 seconds at wide open throttle out of the wood. Put the tach on it if it makes you feel better and see where the rev's go. If you see them pop above 14K, stop.


I think before I went any further, I would pull the muffler and make sure the piston is scuffed.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 24, 2014)

nmurph said:


> That 3/4 only tells you that you have 3/4 of a turn of range. It does not tell you anything about the initial setting of the needle bf the limiter was placed on the needle. You need to remove those limiters so you can tune the saw properly. A course threaded screw can be used to pull them. Just make sure you twist them counter-clockwise as you try to find the detent to release them. Also, try to note how much you turn them and then count the turns it takes to LIGHTLY seat them. You saw should be safe at about 1-1.25 turns out from lightly seated. *Gotcha*
> 
> You need to know if the rev's continue to climb out of the wood. Go ahead, it won't hurt the saw to run it 5-10 seconds at wide open throttle out of the wood. Put the tach on it if it makes you feel better and see where the rev's go. If you see them pop above 14K, stop. *OK*
> 
> ...


* As in showing friction/seal, as opposed to scored/damaged?

As I said, I am still learning, and I really appreciate the assistance. It will be Wednesday before I can mess with it, but I will take your advise and pull my limiters and take it from there. How far out should the LA be from seated? I am assuming that this would make a difference, too.*


----------



## SawTroll (Mar 24, 2014)

Spectre468 said:


> Yup. The 360 has the "standard" diameter spindle (same as the 44 and 66 series, possibly the 88's as well, but I'm not sure), according to Stihl, which is larger than the "small spline" diameter, which I find on my 029, 290 and 390. The 180 and 210 have an even smaller spindle.



Stihl doesn't use the "small spline", but use their own "mini spline" instead - but all but the 360 out of those saws usually comes with a spur sprocket anyway.

Replacement drums with a splined hub and a rim are availiable for at least some of those saws though, and if they are Oregon they may have the "small spline". If it is Stihl, it is either "mini" or "standard" (often called large).


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 24, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> Stihl doesn't use the "small spline", but use their own "mini spline" instead - but all but the 360 out of those saws comes with a spur sprocket anyway.


My 029 super and 390 came with the rim sprockets. The 290 had the spur. And, of course, the 360 pro had a rim.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 24, 2014)

Oh, and I changed the 290 to a rim, too.


----------



## longbowch (Mar 24, 2014)

I've been watching this thread and Nmurph it's nice to see good advice on here!


Sent via mental telepathy


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 24, 2014)

longbowch said:


> I've been watching this thread and Nmurph it's nice to see good advice on here!
> 
> 
> Sent via mental telepathy


Yes, he has been very helpful, and I am grateful for his guidance!


----------



## joe25DA (Mar 24, 2014)

Spectre468 said:


> My 360 is the only "pro" saw I have ever owed, and the only one I had any problems with. Burned out the p&c in less thahn 2 seasons, and wan't my only saw at the time.


How? Nvm.


----------



## hardpan (Mar 24, 2014)

nmurph said:


> Yes, but you need to know if you have an air leak. There was a reason for the first failure...if that wasn't corrected, then you will be back there soon. How many turns out is the H needle from seated to get an 11.8K tune? That can tell something about whether or not you have an air leak. I would guess it should be around 1.5-2 from seated to get that rpm. When you rev it to WOT, does it get to max rpm and then begin to climb further? Or is 11.8k all it will ever do regardless of how long you hold it at WOT?
> 
> Yes, it needs to be set about 13.0K until you have a few tanks through it.
> 
> Yes, higher means leaner, but it is designed to run in a certain rpm range and it's not 11.8K.


He says it will only run 11,800 but does not say it is 4-stroking at that speed. Shouldn't it be 4-stroking pretty good then if its limited because of being too rich? Not trying to but in. You know much more than me. Trying to understand/learn. Will a saw ever 4-stroke if running too lean?


----------



## Sagetown (Mar 24, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> *Stihl doesn't use the "small spline", but use their own "mini spline" instead* - but all but the 360 out of those saws comes with a spur sprocket anyway.
> 
> Replacement drums with a splined hub and a rim are availiable for at least some of those saws though, and if they are Oregon they may have the "small spline". If it is Stihl, it is either "mini" or "standard" (often called large).


 
This is true. I have a MS270. Ordered the small spline for it. it was too loose. Went to the Stihl dealer and he gave me the Stihl Mini spline, quite a difference.


----------



## SawTroll (Mar 24, 2014)

Sagetown said:


> This is true. I have a MS270. Ordered the small spline for it. it was too loose. Went to the Stihl dealer and he gave me the Stihl Mini spline, quite a difference. ....



Quite a difference in price as well, considering both are made at the same factory, and are the exact same quality. The price difference is about the same here, if you buy the Oregon branded rims from a Husky dealer.


----------



## MustangMike (Mar 24, 2014)

Spectre468 said:


> bryan, I have all stihls. ms180, 210, 029, 290, 360, 390.



I would recommend you sell a few of what you got and get a Pro Level Stihl saw with M-Tronic. Any size that feels good to you. They will impress you far more than those homeowner saws, and if you have that many saws you really should have a Pro Level saw. It will be lighter, run stronger, and last half of forever. The M-Tonic feature will also impress you.


----------



## woodchipper95 (Mar 24, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> I would recommend you sell a few of what you got and get a Pro Level Stihl saw with M-Tronic. Any size that feels good to you. They will impress you far more than those homeowner saws, and if you have that many saws you really should have a Pro Level saw. It will be lighter, run stronger, and last half of forever. The M-Tonic feature will also impress you.



I love M-Tronic and AutoTune


----------



## XSKIER (Mar 24, 2014)

21.99 has got to be the price for the drum and rim stück.


----------



## 7sleeper (Mar 24, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> Actually, the 360 should be stronger than the 390, despite less cc. It also is a pro saw, vs. cheaply made "homowner" saws, and lighter.
> 
> The MS271 is another cheaply made "homeowner" saw.





SawTroll said:


> Definately not a semi pro saw, Stihl doesn't make any semi pro saws currently. Regardless what they call it in marketing, it is built like a "homeowner" saw


I am always bewildered at your criteria. What are the criteria for a "pro", "semipro" or "homeowner" saw? They don't exist! It is simply a definition by the companies who produce the product. There has never been an "industry" standard of these criteria. There has never been any published numbers of engine/saw life, etc. And your ignorance to these "facts" is all to evident.

And how you can define "cheaply" made is also quite strange. Modern polymers have proven again and again there superiority over classic "materials". If you look f.e. at firearms the prime example would be the glock pistol. A bunch of old people still "horrified" by the material but it has proven that it is way more than any "full steel" gun!

7


----------



## SawTroll (Mar 24, 2014)

7sleeper said:


> I am always bewildered at your criteria. What are the criteria for a "pro", "semipro" or "homeowner" saw? They don't exist! ....



No, there aren't any "official" criteria, but there is a lot of tradition on the subject.

A semi-pro saw traditionally is built like a pro saw, but it has a lesser performance engine, and usually (but not always) some other differenses, like spur vs. rim sprockets, plastic instead of magnesium in covers etc, or other more subtle differences. Some nicities like an adjustable oiler (just an exemple) may be absent as well.

All saws with a plastic main case and/or a clamshell style engine should be regarded a "homeowner" class saw, regardless what the brand calls it.


----------



## 7sleeper (Mar 24, 2014)

Tradition alone is always the enemy of progress! The best example in my eyes in the chainsaw world is the Stihl 260. An absolut cash cow that inhibited Stihl to move on! Where are they now...

I understand your criteria of definition of semi and homeowner saws, but they have hardly anything to do with reality. The most hated saw the 290, has enough people showing a complete difference in regard to long livety even in pro settings. Enough have comented on that fact here over the years of having these saws in a pro environment and having them hold up very well. Of course no one wanted to hear or believe these reports because of the "unpopularity" of these saws. But it doesn't change the fact that people are experiencing very good results.

The "facts" always will stay the same no matter how much we like to interpretate in our view. With regular maintenance, for a firewooder, they will all outlast us independant on model or brand.

7


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 24, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> I would recommend you sell a few of what you got and get a Pro Level Stihl saw with M-Tronic. Any size that feels good to you. They will impress you far more than those homeowner saws, and if you have that many saws you really should have a Pro Level saw. It will be lighter, run stronger, and last half of forever. The M-Tonic feature will also impress you.


The 360 is a "pro level" saw, and the only one that's ever given me any problems. Stihl ms360 pro.


----------



## joe25DA (Mar 24, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> No, there aren't any "official" criteria, but there is a lot of tradition on the subject.
> 
> A semi-pro saw traditionally is built like a pro saw, but it has a lesser performance engine, and usually (but not always) some other differenses, like spur vs. rim sprockets, plastic instead of magnesium in covers etc, or other more subtle differences. Some nicities like an adjustable oiler (just an exemple) may be absent as well.
> 
> All saws with a plastic main case and/or a clamshell style engine should be regarded a "homeowner" class saw, regardless what the brand calls it.


I agree. And if there wasnt a difference why isnt an ms 250 built like a 260? If a clamshell is superior why isnt that design in my 440?


----------



## joe25DA (Mar 24, 2014)

7sleeper said:


> Tradition alone is always the enemy of progress! The best example in my eyes in the chainsaw world is the Stihl 260. An absolut cash cow that inhibited Stihl to move on! Where are they now...
> 
> I understand your criteria of definition of semi and homeowner saws, but they have hardly anything to do with reality. The most hated saw the 290, has enough people showing a complete difference in regard to long livety even in pro settings. Enough have comented on that fact here over the years of having these saws in a pro environment and having them hold up very well. Of course no one wanted to hear or believe these reports because of the "unpopularity" of these saws. But it doesn't change the fact that people are experiencing very good results.
> 
> ...



I like my 029 and 026  I wouldnt say a 290/029 is unpopular. Its just the mentality if some who think that a 290 is far superior to say a poulan 330. Has nothing to do with the saw. An 029 is a rugged, good saw imo.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 24, 2014)

joe25DA said:


> I agree. And if there wasnt a difference why isnt an ms 250 built like a 260? If a clamshell is superior why isnt that design in my 440?


All I know is that I would say that I probably cut 12-15 cords of wood a year, on average, some years more, some years less. All but one of my saws are classified as home owner or farm and ranch "grade" by mfg. My "pro" saw crapped out with between 10-12 cords on it. If it were operator error, and not a defective saw, I would think that all of my saws would have suffered the same fate, since they have all been treated/maintained the same way.


----------



## SawTroll (Mar 24, 2014)

7sleeper said:


> ....
> I understand your criteria of definition of semi and homeowner saws, but they have hardly anything to do with reality. .....
> 
> 7



Reality is just what I posted about - then those that want to can dream up what they want.

Neither plastic cases or clamshell style engines represent any progress, only lower quality and _usually_ more weight and bulk. That doesn't mean that all of them are bad saws for the occational user that just wants something that works.

The saws are what they are, and no marketing tricks can change that, except in the minds of less than knowlegable people.....


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 24, 2014)

nmurph said:


> Yes, but you need to know if you have an air leak. There was a reason for the first failure...if that wasn't corrected, then you will be back there soon. How many turns out is the H needle from seated to get an 11.8K tune? That can tell something about whether or not you have an air leak. I would guess it should be around 1.5-2 from seated to get that rpm. When you rev it to WOT, does it get to max rpm and then begin to climb further? Or is 11.8k all it will ever do regardless of how long you hold it at WOT?
> 
> Yes, it needs to be set about 13.0K until you have a few tanks through it.
> 
> Yes, higher means leaner, but it is designed to run in a certain rpm range and it's not 11.8K.



Looking for air leak....note to self: ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS drain the fuel tank before messing with the fuel line!!! So, I was looking at the tank vent, noticed that all of the little holes seem to have sawdust packed into them. I wonder if that has caused a problem that may have starved the engine in the first place? Anyway, pulled the fuel line off the carb and had fuel mix spray everywhere. I was able to pinch the line shut and re-attach it, but there was a huge amount of pressure in that tank. I would assume that the pressure build up is normal, but I don't know how much. So, after I drain the fuel tank, should I pop that tank vent out and clean it out? Didn't notice any place were the line was bubbling or leaking anywhere. I would assume with the amount of pressure there was, if there were a problem with the fuel line itself, I would have seen something. Also, I am having difficulty pulling the limiters. I'm not sure what I'm supposed to line up to pull them, and I didn't want to take pliers to the screw I inserted and just pull it out as that looked like that would have resulted in damage to the limiters.


----------



## 7sleeper (Mar 25, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> Reality is just what I posted about - then those that want to can dream up what they want.
> 
> Neither plastic cases or clamshell style engines represent any progress, only lower quality and _usually_ more weight and bulk. That doesn't mean that all of them are bad saws for the occational user that just wants something that works.
> 
> The saws are what they are, and no marketing tricks can change that, except in the minds of less than knowlegable people.....


Reality is what people with experience with the saws in question comment about them and not what people dream up in their far away world. Those who listen to the above are the knowledgeable people. 

7


----------



## SawTroll (Mar 25, 2014)

7sleeper said:


> Reality is what people with experience with the saws in question comment about them and not what people dream up in their far away world. Those who listen to the above are the knowledgeable people.
> 
> 7



The people that use the sub-standard saws usually don't know what they are talking about, so their reports are basically worth nil and nothing.

You get one "dislike" back from me for that silly post, after you left me two earlier in the thread - not that I really care! 

Saws are what they are, regardless what the brand calls them, and what some users think of them.


----------



## 7sleeper (Mar 25, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> The people that use the sub-standard saws usually don't know what they are talking about, so their reports are basically worth nil and nothing.
> 
> You get one "dislike" back from me for that silly post, after you left me two earlier in the thread - not that I really care!
> 
> Saws are what they are, regardless what the brand calls them, and what some users think of them.


Was waiting all along for a "dislike"! 

7


----------



## SawTroll (Mar 25, 2014)

7sleeper said:


> Was waiting all along for a "dislike"!
> 
> 7




Delivered, and no problem - I sort of like to have someone to disagree with, that isn't a pure moron! 

I don't really like to use the "dislike" button though, but some times I feel I have to....


----------



## 7sleeper (Mar 25, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> Delivered, and no problem - I sort of like to have someone to disagree with, that isn't a pure moron!
> 
> I don't really like to use the "dislike" button though, but some times I feel I have to....


So I am only a half moron!?! Wait you 



7


----------



## SawTroll (Mar 25, 2014)

7sleeper said:


> So I am only a half moron!?! Wait you
> 
> 
> 
> 7




Something like that - but also a cool poster!


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 25, 2014)

Spectre the limiter is in a hole with a notch on the side. The plastic limiter has a tab that you need to line up with the notch. If you turn the limiter you see the tab move past the notch at some point. I did the same thing with the fuel line. I brought the saw in from out side and the fuel just kept expanding as it warmed up. Find a service manual and do a vacuum/ pressure test on the saw to make sure there's no air leaks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 25, 2014)

You can check all the gaskets crank seals impulse line intake boot all at once.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 25, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> Spectre the limiter is in a hole with a notch on the side. The plastic limiter has a tab that you need to line up with the notch. If you turn the limiter you see the tab move past the notch at some point. I did the same thing with the fuel line. I brought the saw in from out side and the fuel just kept expanding as it warmed up. Find a service manual and do a vacuum/ pressure test on the saw to make sure there's no air leaks.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks! I did try to line stuff up, but the H one doesn't seem to have any slot to fit through to come out. The L seems to have a bigger shelf that is longer than the slight recess that I thought it would come through. I'll have to keep messing with it. I don't have the stuff to do a pressure test.


----------



## cedarshark (Mar 25, 2014)

Standard automotive vac/pressure kit from automotive store will work fine. MityVac makes a good one. Seal up your carb intake and exhaust port, put about -7 psi on the saw(through the impulse line) and watch the bleedoff. There are good threads here on the process. If my saw wont hold a vacumn, I pressure it up and submerge the saw in a sink full of water ....the bubbles will tell you where the air leak(if that is the problem) . Some folks use soapy water in a spray bottles. The MityVac is also useful for testing gas/impulse lines.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 25, 2014)

Can you post a pick of the carb where the screws are? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 25, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> Can you post a pick of the carb where the screws are?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not right now. I assume pics have to hosted somewhere to be posted on here? So, from the rear of the saw, right hand side of carb, H adjustment screw has red plastic cylinder with tab, L adj screw has white plastic cylinder with tab. Both are inserted into white plastic housing that is attached to the carb, but appears to be held in its place by a spring that surrounds the L screw. There is an opening slit between the H and L adjusters that forms the aperture which the adjusters penetrate. Under this, there seems to be a collar around both cylinders that retains them inside of the white plastic housing. On the L side, there is a groove that runs about 3/4 the diameter of the opening. I thought that I would be able to align the collar with this groove and pull the cylinder free. The collar is wider than the opening and does not pass through. Same with the red H cylinder, but the opening does not appear to have a recessed groove at all. I will consult a service manual and see if there is something that I am missing.


----------



## AKDoug (Mar 25, 2014)

Any chance you can post a photo?


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 25, 2014)

AKDoug said:


> Any chance you can post a photo?


No. I'm not very savvy in those regards. Do you have to have images hosted elsewhere to post them here or is it a direct post?


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 25, 2014)

I just trimmed the tabs off of the limiters and I'm good now. How many turns out on the LA?


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 25, 2014)

The LA is the idle speed adjustment. Do a quick google search and look at a Stihl manual any service manual will work they want you to set the idle speed and the low mix screw together with a tach. You did say you have a tach? Basicly They want to tune the low speed fuel and idle air so that you reduce the idle rpms to spec by adding fuel.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 25, 2014)

You should do a vac pressure test and make sure theres no air leaks 1st.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 25, 2014)

What happened on the 271 anyway? When you rebuilt the 360 did you use OEM parts or aftermarket?


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 25, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> What happened on the 271 anyway? When you rebuilt the 360 did you use OEM parts or aftermarket?


Looks like the guy wants to see if he can get more than 300 for it, says if he doesn't sell it by next week, its mine for 300. I used aftermarket P&C, everything else has been factory.

On the LA, I was wondering if there was a standard setting like the L and H being 1 turn out from seated. I have been messing with both and think that I might be getting close to being where I need to be. Idle is running between 2760 and 2880. I have H set to max out at 13300. Now the next issue. I cleaned out the tank vent as it was plugged up with sawdust. Now its clear, and while tuning, I noticed that there were little bubbles coming from the holes. It was fuel mix. As I understand it, the vent is supposed to suck air IN to equilibrate tank pressure to prevent a vacuum. Maybe I damaged the vent when I cleaned it? Blasted it too hard with air?

I don't have the equipment to perform the vac test.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 25, 2014)

Your right it only supposed to let air in it's a one way valve. Replace it. So nmurph was asking about where your settings on the high and low ended up when you have it tuned to the correct rpms. I think his idea was to see how far off the standard settings you are to see if the saw needs extra fuel to cover for an air leak.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 26, 2014)

mopar3 said:


> Your right it only supposed to let air in it's a one way valve. Replace it. So nmurph was asking about where your settings on the high and low ended up when you have it tuned to the correct rpms. I think his idea was to see how far off the standard settings you are to see if the saw needs extra fuel to cover for an air leak.


Yes, that is exactly right. With tabs trimmed, L is at about 2.1 turns out, total, (so, the original 1 turn, + another turn and a bit) and the H is about 1/4 turn in from the 1 turn. So not very far off, I don't think, and that is with the leaky vent.


----------



## knothole (Mar 26, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> No, there aren't any "official" criteria, but there is a lot of tradition on the subject.
> 
> A semi-pro saw traditionally is built like a pro saw, but it has a lesser performance engine, and usually (but not always) some other differenses, like spur vs. rim sprockets, plastic instead of magnesium in covers etc, or other more subtle differences. Some nicities like an adjustable oiler (just an exemple) may be absent as well.
> 
> All saws with a plastic main case and/or a clamshell style engine should be regarded a "homeowner" class saw, regardless what the brand calls it.



I think the majority of the "bad rap" that homeowner saws receive is due to the homeowner. Simple maintenance goes miles towards achieving long service life from a homeowner saw. The plastics/polymers have advanced significantly as well as air filtering and engine quality. They (home owner saws) are not in the same league as the pro's as far as fit and finish goes but if you at least semi take care of them they will last a LONG time. I purchased a new craftsman (Blasphemy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) on sale in 2000 for $89.00. 40 cc 18" bar made by (upchuck) poulan. It lasted me 13 years and I sold it for $50.00 on cl. Not a bad return on investment. Just my .02.


----------



## mopar3 (Mar 26, 2014)

Spectre468 said:


> Yes, that is exactly right. With tabs trimmed, L is at about 2.1 turns out, total, (so, the original 1 turn, + another turn and a bit) and the H is about 1/4 turn in from the 1 turn. So not very far off, I don't think, and that is with the leaky vent.


Well if the standard setting or starting point is 1 turn out on each your double that on the low speed. Im not a saw expert mechanic but could it be that you are at t 2 turns on the low to cover for an air leak? If I was usure about the saw I would call around to the local dealers or shops and see what they would charge to test the saw. I was able to seal the intake and exhaust with pieces of an inner tube. Then used a fitting to pressure test through the plug hole. But I have a mityvac tool and coolant pressure tester. At 1 turn on the low what does the saw do rev high or dye out?


----------



## cedarshark (Mar 26, 2014)

I assume that saw has a Walbro HT carb(but I am not sure). I have seen saws with Zama Carbs that required 2 turns out to run correct without an air leak, but not a walbro. I believe you got sound advice above to get the saw vac/pressure tested. Although I believe this is something that would be very beneficial for you to learn, it certainly could be done by a dealer at a reasonable cost if you had the muffler off and carb off to minimize labor costs.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 27, 2014)

I have a compression tester en route. Should be able to use it next week. I'll have a new tank vent, fuel line and impulse line by then as well. My understanding was that it might take as many as 4 full turns out to compensate for an air leak, so I didn't feel too bad about the 2 turns. But I ain't no expert. 

Behavior noted: Using LA, adjusted idle between 3000-3200, then used L to get down to 2800, as per the service manual. I would encounter a "sweet spot", both at one and 2 turns out on the L, but seemed that at 1 turn, if I were to go counterclockwise even a hairs breadth, the idle would drop down and get erratic, swinging as low as 1600 and as high as 3100ish. LA. Same of the L going clockwise. Couldn't get the idle to stabilize very well, unless I set it closer to 3000. Also, noticed that it was taking too long for chain to stop running when I got off the throttle. Was taking 10-12 seconds to have the rpms to drop below 3400 and then the chain would stop. Had to feather the throttle to get the engine to rev without wanting to stall. I think the new parts and a compression test will be very helpful to resolve the issues with this saw.


----------



## MustangMike (Mar 27, 2014)

Spectre468 said:


> The 360 is a "pro level" saw, and the only one that's ever given me any problems. Stihl ms360 pro.



Sorry about your personal bad experience, but most of the evidence out there supports that in general the Pro level saws out perform and out last the other ones. In addition, the M-Tronic/Auto Tune saws are in a whole new category. I stand by my original recommendation, but the decision is yours. The way I look at it, you can only cut with one saw at a time, may as well be a great one. For cutting over 10 cords a year, the increased productivity would be well worth it. The pro saws also have better air filters, chain lubrication, etc. and are lighter and cut faster. M-Tronic will also remove a lot of headaches.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 27, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> Sorry about your personal bad experience, but most of the evidence out there supports that in general the Pro level saws out perform and out last the other ones. In addition, the M-Tronic/Auto Tune saws are in a whole new category. I stand by my original recommendation, but the decision is yours. The way I look at it, you can only cut with one saw at a time, may as well be a great one. For cutting over 10 cords a year, the increased productivity would be well worth it. The pro saws also have better air filters, chain lubrication, etc. and are lighter and cut faster. M-Tronic will also remove a lot of headaches.



I appreciate your suggestions. My go-to saw for most things is my 029 Super with a 16" bar that is pushing 15 years old, followed by my 390 for the bigger stuff. As far as using one saw at a time, you are right, but I usually take at least 3 saws when we are out cutting, and rotate between them so they don't get too hot. Some years we are cutting in 104'F temps. Thank you USFS for your wonderful cutting schedule! I've been pretty happy with my saws and the way they perform and have held up, despite not being "pro" saws. And, I am only too well aware of the old saying that two is one and one is none. This is why I have a rule to always have back ups to important stuff. The only exception to this rule is my Wife.opcorn:


----------



## MustangMike (Mar 27, 2014)

What ever works for you and your circumstances is good. I only have the two saws, so I do like having a backup, but I can use either one for just about anything and run them hard all day long (the 044 has even spent a good amount of time ripping logs into posts & beams).

Good Luck with your cutting.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 27, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> What ever works for you and your circumstances is good. I only have the two saws, so I do like having a backup, but I can use either one for just about anything and run them hard all day long (the 044 has even spent a good amount of time ripping logs into posts & beams).
> 
> Good Luck with your cutting.



Thanks! And thanks also for you input. I do appreciate it, and I certainly see your point.


----------



## cedarshark (Mar 28, 2014)

I think these threads that berate homeowner saws as opposed to the pro series saw are entertaining but rarely very useful. I had the occsasion last year to contract a land clearing service to cut blueberry cedar that covered overed 70% of a 200 acre pasture. The contractor showed up with a trailer that was loaded with 20 MS290's in a rack on the trailer along with a workbench,compressed air and a full set of tools and spare parts. A van arrived with 10 people. One guy was responsible for fueling and oiling the saws. The trailer was pulled into a central location, the remaining 9 got a saw off the rack and started cutting. When a saw ran out of gas, it was returned to the trailer, blown off with compressed air, air filter cleaned, chain inspected and resharpened if required. The sawyer got a freshly fueled one with a sharp chain off the rack. I was amazed that a situation that should have called for "pro grade saws" was profitable using homeowner equipment. It was simple...and the service owner explained. He grew up cutting cedar, went to college and had his degree in ranch mgt. His lowest calculated cost per hour to operate a saw was with the 290. 260's were tried for a time period and the hourly cost was higher. He gets about 4 yrs out of a 290 running it 8 hrs a day in horrible heat and dirty,rocky conditions. I suspect he beats a saw to death in that time period in those conditions. 

Having said the above, I pulled down and replaced the piston in 2 saws last week, an old 028 and a fairly new MS280, which is the clamshell version of the 028. The job went quicker and more enjoyable on the 028. The 280 clamshell cylinder is deeper and much more difficult to clean if you have aluminum deposits to clean. My hands were a bloody mess when that 280 cyl was done. The 280 is the more enjoyable saw to run,much smoother and less vibration. I am amazed at the condition that some of the older saws retain after 30 years and I suspect the newer plastic saws will not age as welll. But will the homeowner saw serve most people well ? Most definitely if cleaned and maintained responsibly.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 28, 2014)

I would tend to agree that bashing threads are counter-productive. I may have a different opinion once I get my pro saw up and running correctly, but I still think that I would not have had this sort of problem with such a great saw, had there not been some underlying issue with it from the factory or dealer.


----------



## MustangMike (Mar 28, 2014)

I guess if I were hiring other people to run my saw I would not care if it was a little heavy, and the speed may matter more depending on what you are cutting. But if I can take a lighter saw and cut faster and get the work done sooner, well, I value my time. Ripping a 27' piece of Ash into a beam takes long enough with an 044, I would not want to do it with a lesser saw. Ditto if I can get through a pile of logs sooner, or just cut more wood in the time that I have available, I value having good equipment.

That said, if your equipment serves your needs, I'm not trying to twist your arm. When I went from homeowner to professional saws I never looked back. My 044 was far more productive, ran smoother and was trouble free. Your experiences may be different.


----------



## Spectre468 (Mar 29, 2014)

For the most part I would agree that professional grade equipment performs better than lesser grades, but not always. And often they are one and the same, depending on the equipment in question. I didn't see your contributions as arm twisting. Quite the contrary! I do appreciate your thoughts and suggestions, especially since they were not of the "oh you must have what I have or else its just ****" variety. If I had the budget to do so, I might have tried to upgrade my 360 to a 362, but I just can't swing it right now. We are replacing all of our windows this spring and getting a new wood-burning stove with a remodeled hearth/mantle this summer. I'm hoping to get both projects done for under 25K, but I might be underestimating. We'll be getting our first estimate for windows next week. I am trying to get my stable of saw in tip top order this year. Perhaps next year I will be able to re-arrange some of what I have and make upgrades. I'd love to have a MS44-class and an MS66-class saw, but I'm not sure that I would really need the bigger of the two. Maybe I'll end up with a 362 and a 441.


----------



## MustangMike (Mar 29, 2014)

Spectre, my arm twisting comment was not in response to you, and I wish you all the best. I know what it is like to have to prioritize your needs, I first got into woodcutting when I could not afford the oil to heat my house (it tripled in a day during the Arab Oil Embargo). 

Keep the saws running and good luck with the cutting. Few things are more important than properly maintaining your saw and keeping your chain sharp, and family always comes first.


----------



## Spectre468 (Apr 1, 2014)

Quick update. The MS271 was sold to another party for pretty much what the seller paid for it new. I'm glad he was able to get his money back out of it, but I'm sorry that I didn't get a screaming deal on a nice saw! So it goes. My quest to repair my MS360 continues. Replaced the leaky tank vent, fuel and impulse lines today and did a compression test. 120 psi. New p&c with less than 1/2 tank through it. I'm at 7000', so I guess that's not too bad a number? I've also decided to change bars on it. Went down to an 18" from a 20". Tomorrow, I plan to get the tach out and tune it, see how it does.


----------



## MustangMike (Apr 1, 2014)

Best of luck with it, keep us posted.


----------



## Spectre468 (Apr 1, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> Best of luck with it, keep us posted.



Thanks, will do!


----------



## Spectre468 (Apr 21, 2014)

Dang! Guess I failed to update this post. Here's what I did. I ordered a MS 362 C-M and got it home, made a few cuts with it at the wood pile. Was really thinking that I needed to get the MS 261 C-M as well. Went to the shed and started looking at saws. Got ahold of my dealer and asked if he could ball park me a figure on trade in on my low hour MS 290. We struck a deal I could not refuse and the next week the MS 261 C-M came home. So, I have 2 new saws that I am very pleased with, but haven't had the chance to do any real cutting with as of yet. Hope to get out in the next couple of 3 weeks and get these pups broken in.


----------



## 7sleeper (Apr 21, 2014)

Having a bunch of brand new saws and no wood to cut is typical for AS...

Congratulation!!! On a great saw pair! 

But to be honest I wouldn't have bought the pair. Powerwise they are quite close together. Either change the 261 for a 241 or the 362 for a 441. 

7


----------



## XSKIER (Apr 21, 2014)

Keep the saws, but rather add a MS 241 C-M and MS 441 R C-M, and still cut no wood!


----------



## MustangMike (Apr 21, 2014)

Hey, I don't use a saw every day either, but when I use them I use them, and often I need to get a lot of work done in as little time as possible, which is why it is nice to have some good saws. Also, most firewood cutters do it on a seasonal basis, or as the opportunity arises. Doesn't mean you should not have good saws.


----------



## Spectre468 (Apr 21, 2014)

Typically, USFS regulates most of my cutting for the majority of our fuel wood. If we get concurrent permits, we have 30 days to cut 8 cords. Sometimes we can get a second, following permit, good for another 30 days. These are usually available in June, July, or August, but one year I did get a permit in October. So the majority of our "heavy" cutting comes in short bursts. Our home sits on just over 4 acres of forested land. Just this am, my Wife and I looked at a problem area where we have some beetle kill trees. Looks like have about a dozen pinon to cut this week. Most are less than a foot in diameter and no taller than 20'. Doubt I'll break out the 362, or even the 261 for this. Probably just use the 029, and the 210 for limbing. My buddy has a little over an acre and a half of burned over ponderosa, some pushing 80' that we'll be clear cutting so he can replant. That, and our fuel wood cutting will be when the new saws get their work out.


----------



## Spectre468 (Apr 22, 2014)

XSKIER said:


> Keep the saws, but rather add a MS 241 C-M and MS 441 R C-M, and still cut no wood!


I am already looking at the 241, but I think for the $100 price difference and increased power over the 441, I'd rather go with the 461, but its not a C-M, yet.

And I did manage to get about an hour's worth of cutting in today. Dropped, limbed and bucked up a few pinon. I'm still pleasantly surprised at how well/fast the 210 cuts with the 3/8 picco yellow chipper chain. Granted, I wasn't using it on big wood, but it was a size appropriate match of wood and saw. Really enjoyed using the 029 Super, too. I haven't run it since last fall, and it felt like shaking the hand of an old friend.


----------



## Spectre468 (Apr 29, 2014)

Ok, latest update. Trading in the 029 Super for a MS271 tomorrow. Dealer is setting it up with a rim sprocket for me and it'll be running a HD2 air filter!


----------



## MustangMike (Apr 29, 2014)

Good Luck with the new saw, let me know how it compares to the 261.


----------



## Spectre468 (Apr 30, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> Good Luck with the new saw, let me know how it compares to the 261.


Mike, I'm sure it won't compare to my 261 C-M at all! It's just a cheapo homeslice saw!

Realistically, I think I will get more use out of the 271 than the 261 since I'm getting the 271 for "around the property" use as opposed to serious firewood cutting. It'll be taking a lot of pinon, mostly 6-12" diameter stuff that I didn't want to run up hours on the pro saws cutting. I know they are nearly the same rating in power, but that M-tronic really makes the 261 (and 362) perform like a bigger-than-it-is saw. The 271 is supposed to out-cut the 290 and 291, so it sounds like a good saw for my purposes. And you know I've been jonsing for one for awhile. And I'm still not sold on the 241 C-M just yet. It may be a mistake to pass over the 241, but I have for the time being. Hope to get a couple hours in with the 271 tomorrow and I'll post my thoughts.


----------



## 7sleeper (Apr 30, 2014)

Congratulation to the 271!

Although I doubt that the 271 is faster than the 291. Further the 271 is probably faster than the unmuffler modded but against the classic hole in the old 029 muffler I am seriously skeptical.

7


----------



## Spectre468 (Apr 30, 2014)

Guess we'll see!


----------



## MustangMike (Apr 30, 2014)

I have never used one, but it looks like a nice light weight saw, and it is in the "Farm" category. My cousin cut more firewood with an 038 than most people will in their lives.


----------



## njsawgeek (Apr 30, 2014)

*I would like to know bottom line is my boat anchor ms290 more powerful & faster cutting than the newer ms271 & or ms291?*
I could have afforded the ms271 but the dealer I wanted to buy from didnt have any in stock or so he said. I drove out to another dealer and held the ms271 in my hands and it did feel nice. But overall I went with the ms290 because its tried and true and lots of parts and know how available on this saw. Plus I did like the idea of the adjustable oiler which I keep maxed out even with my 16in bar. Better to have more oil, right?
*So whats the deal on straight up power and cutting?* I dont care about it sipping less fuel, weight or anything else all I care about is the power vs the two mentioned above. I also bought the ms290 because when my warranty is up I am going to MM it. And people seem to really think it makes a noticable difference. I just cant hack up a new saw partially paid for by the GF and then have an issue. 
I just cant see the ms271 out cutting the ms290 or ms291 it makes zero cents to me all things being equal.


----------



## 7sleeper (Apr 30, 2014)

Unmodded the 271 & 291 will out cut the the 290. If the 290 is MM it will be about equal to the 271 but the 291 will still be ahead. But we are always talking about an experimental situation. In real life a pro logger with a 251 will outcut , production wise, joe firewooder with a 261, simply because he knows what he is doing and can do it all day long! 

Personally I would have gotten the 271 or 291. Why? Because of the antivibration! Power is so minimalistic in difference that you can forget it. 

Your criteria why to buy the 290 is still excelent _"because its tried and true and lots of parts and know how available on this saw_" and completely understandable. And the possibility for an upgrade is really easy. 

Enjoy your saw and let us participate with some action pictures!

7


----------



## njsawgeek (Apr 30, 2014)

Thanks for the reply... no action here its been pouring rain for a day straight and my spots probably flooded and or super wet. I mainly use the saw for cutting hunting trails and future firewood which I have a good amount of right now. Honestly at the time of purchase a few months ago I was wondering if I should have just got the ms250. Bottom line I was using my gf's fathers ms230 and I mean I can really notice the weight difference vs my ms290. But it is what it is... I gave up on one tree blocking my path and the new saw was able to get it done. I probably could have done it with his saw but felt like I was beating on it. I dont like borrowing things like tools or saw or even someones car. But overall I am happy with my purchase and the dealer I got it from. Dealer said just run it, and that I only need to take it back if the chain is moving at idle. Otherwise just use it! I know how to maintain my stuff but I'm not about to tear an engine apart. I just read and see what guys on here do to be honest. I'm a no body and never will be when it comes to saws... but for some reason I find it very interesting I'm on my 5th tank of gas so we shal see if it gains any power or not. But i'm happy


----------



## MustangMike (Apr 30, 2014)

Once the bug bites you ... My 044 stayed stock for over 20 yrs, and I was always very impressed with it. But since joining this site it now has a duel port muffler cover, K&N air filter, and square file chain (20" bar). These minor changes have made a noticeable improvement in performance, and the engine has still never been apart.

Enjoy your saw and beware of the addiction!


----------



## 7sleeper (Apr 30, 2014)

njsawgeek said:


> Thanks for the reply... Honestly at the time of purchase a few months ago I was wondering if I should have just got the ms250. Bottom line I was using my gf's fathers ms230 and I mean I can really notice the weight difference vs my ms290. But it is what it is... I gave up on one tree blocking my path and the new saw was able to get it done. I probably could have done it with his saw but felt like I was beating on it. I dont like borrowing things like tools or saw or even someones car. But overall I am happy with my purchase and the dealer I got it from. Dealer said just run it, and that I only need to take it back if the chain is moving at idle. Otherwise just use it! I know how to maintain my stuff but I'm not about to tear an engine apart. I just read and see what guys on here do to be honest. I'm a no body and never will be when it comes to saws... but for some reason I find it very interesting I'm on my 5th tank of gas so we shal see if it gains any power or not. But i'm happy


In your cutting situation your chainsaw will last forever, even if you are 2 years old at the moment...  The 250 would have fit the bill totally. Although your dealer didn't say to come back I would still consider it after 10-15 refills, just to be on the safe side. I hope you got the extended warrenty with your saw.

As MustangMike said:

Rule Nr. 1: Safety first! 
Chaps, Helmet, Eye & Ear protection and chainsaw safety boots! Wedges will save you often. Don't be stupid cutting down what you cannot safely take down! 

Nr. 2: Sharp chain

Nr. 3: fresh fuel mix

Nr. 4: regular maintenance

If rule 1 to 4 are always considered your sawing future is quite bright! Have you thought already about your second saw... 

7


----------



## njsawgeek (Apr 30, 2014)

I do all of the above and the reason I purchased the chaps is because of this website. I got the black Stihl chaps that came with a nice helmet (kit) and was aprx $100 and to me money well spent. No places ever mention chaps, why IDK to me its another item they(the dealer) could easily be selling. My dealer set me up with a non green chain I think its the RS. Originally he had it set up with an 18inch bar but honestly speaking it seemed unbalanced and intimidating compared to what I was used to. So I asked if he could set it up with a 16inch bar which he gladly ordered so I had to wait a week. I have a HF grinder/sharpener and while I can manipulate it to work pretty well I can get it razor sharp by hand. So I dont plan on using the grinder unless I mess up the chain pretty good. 

I really want to pick up some cut retardant boots but I really dont have the money... Like I am currently broke to be honest!

Maintenance wise, I am the king of maintaining my stuff. I bought the Stihl synthetic oil and got the 2 yr warranty which was a no brainer. And yes after x amount of tanks I do plan to bring it in to have it looked over. Esp since it was set up initially in cold weather. And yeah... the ms250 would have been fine for my needs! I bet a lot of guys over saw themselves, even I was doubting my purchase after coming on here.

Heck with heating the house I need to keep those trails clear for the deer(hunting)! Its all about hunting for me... Anyway thank you

To be honest I was kinda hoping to hear that the ms290 would have been the saw to have over the newer ms271/291. The other thing that pushed me to the ms290 was bar oiling issues like recently posted. But I am thankful for what I have and it should last me a very, very long time!

I use a clip belt/strap to carry it where it needs to go in the woods. So weight wise once I'm using it I dont notice the added weight. Maybe the added weight even aids in cutting cause I really never have to force it.


----------



## 7sleeper (Apr 30, 2014)

@njsawgeek 

I like your analytic way to your situation! And the bar choice was also very good. Add a cheap 20 inch bar for the few times you need something bigger. And you can always get a spare muffler cheaply to do a muffler mod...

For cut retardent boots you can get by, until money is in the bank again, with a pair of steel towed boots. Steel!!! towed boots and not plastic toed!!! because the chainsaw will easily cut through the plastic toe cap boots!

7


----------



## MustangMike (Apr 30, 2014)

I think most people make the mistake of buying "too little saw", and once they get used to it they wish they had something faster, so you likely did just fine.


----------



## SawTroll (Apr 30, 2014)

7sleeper said:


> Congratulation to the 271!
> 
> Although I doubt that the 271 is faster than the 291. Further the 271 is probably faster than the unmuffler modded but against the classic hole in the old 029 muffler I am seriously skeptical.
> 
> 7




I see no reason to congratulate on getting any of those homeowner class saws - none of them really is a good choise!


----------



## MustangMike (Apr 30, 2014)

The reason they make different classes of saws is because people have different needs. If the purchaser is satisfied with his saw, no one else's judgement is relevant.

I prefer the Professional Level saws because I think they make sense over the long term, but someone who does far less cutting may not think the cost is worth it.

You are very knowledgeable Troll, but also very judgmental at times.


----------



## Ndigity26 (Apr 30, 2014)

missedbass said:


> No disrespect troll but its obvious to me that you have not run a 271.


I've run an owned a 270, and they are considered to be a mid-range saw not professional. They preform well enough and I did like the torque but if you have run a properly tuned ms 261 or husky 346xp, 550xp, 535, 545 the 270's and 271's aren't really in the same range. I think many who know would agree there.


----------



## Ndigity26 (Apr 30, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> I see no reason to congratulate on getting any of those homeowner class saws - none of them really is a good choise!



I have learned to really enjoyed your point of view, mostly because it is so unwavering when speaking about professional grade saws and how it is pro of nothing at all.


----------



## SawTroll (Apr 30, 2014)

Ndigity26 said:


> I have learned to really enjoyed your point of view, mostly because it is so unwavering when speaking about professional grade saws and how it is pro of nothing at all.



Thanks - I am not a pro, but it doesn't take a pro to like high quality saws! 

As I do everything myself , from felling to splitting and stacking, including a lot of limbing - it also matters a lot how the saws handle in the woods, and "trigger response". That narrows the possible choises down even further.


----------



## Spectre468 (Apr 30, 2014)

Well, the new MS 271 made it home today. I am, so far, very satisfied with my purchase. It definitely outcuts my 029 and MS 290. The anti-vibe is really a great feature. Super smooth running when cutting. Also, I noticed a huge difference in run time. I think I'd average about 40-45 minutes of run time on a single, full tank. I went for over an hour on my first tank, and ended up shutting it down because I needed a water break. Still had fuel in the tank! Refilled fuel and bar oil, started snowing again, cut for about another 50 minutes. I noticed that the bar and chain was getting dry so I shut it down. Still had fuel and bar oil, but not much. Couldn't get any oil to pump out and I was starting to get concerned, but then I remembered others having issues when the oil was low. Refilled both tanks and fired it up. Coupla throttle blips and then had a wet bar and chain again. I was pretty relieved because I was certain I had screwed up by buying a saw without an adjustable oiler. (Did not know the 271 lacked that feature until this am when I went to pick it up.) It cuts like the dickens! I'm running 33RS60 on it and the chips are really flying. Even did a couple of bigger juniper stumps with it and it just went right through them.

Sawtroll may disapprove of my decision, but I think I did pretty well. This saw is doing what I need it to, and does it very nicely. It is a light, nibble saw that seems to cut well, and smoothly. Just what I was looking for. I did take it down a little to clean it up after I was done cutting. By the way, I put a HD2 air filter on it from the get go, and a rim sprocket. The filter was hardly dirty at all after about 2 hours of cutting, and I was cutting some dry, dirty stuff! I think this is a result of the pre-filtration/air separation feature of this saw. I did compare it to my MS 261 C-M, and there are noticeable differences in materials and construction throughout the saw, but the overall design is the same. I would definitely say that the 261 is built for heavier duty use than the 271, and the differences in quality are reflected in the differences in price! Just as you can really tell the difference between this saw and the "home owner" grade saws. While I am certainly glad that I was able to get the 261 and 362 earlier this month, I am really stoked about this saw. It's really perfect for my needs for what I wanted it for, and that is what it should boil down to in the end anyway. Is it a "pro saw"? No. I have those for my main firewood saws. Is it a good quality, effective saw? Seems like it so far!


----------



## 7sleeper (May 1, 2014)

Excellent comment Spectre!!!

This is one of the main problems I see that all the advocates of pro saws always leave out of their equation. Will a pro saw make you cut your wood any faster? The realistic answer is no. At the end of the day any pro with the elcheapo homeowner/famer grade saw is going to have cut more wood than any hobby firewooder with the pro saw. The reason is simple experience and technique. So maybe the few cuts that a firewooder makes are faster but will they make the remaining processing any faster? I highly doubt it.

7


----------



## missedbass (May 1, 2014)

Spectre468 said:


> Well, the new MS 271 made it home today. I am, so far, very satisfied with my purchase. It definitely outcuts my 029 and MS 290. The anti-vibe is really a great feature. Super smooth running when cutting. Also, I noticed a huge difference in run time. I think I'd average about 40-45 minutes of run time on a single, full tank. I went for over an hour on my first tank, and ended up shutting it down because I needed a water break. Still had fuel in the tank! Refilled fuel and bar oil, started snowing again, cut for about another 50 minutes. I noticed that the bar and chain was getting dry so I shut it down. Still had fuel and bar oil, but not much. Couldn't get any oil to pump out and I was starting to get concerned, but then I remembered others having issues when the oil was low. Refilled both tanks and fired it up. Coupla throttle blips and then had a wet bar and chain again. I was pretty relieved because I was certain I had screwed up by buying a saw without an adjustable oiler. (Did not know the 271 lacked that feature until this am when I went to pick it up.) It cuts like the dickens! I'm running 33RS60 on it and the chips are really flying. Even did a couple of bigger juniper stumps with it and it just went right through them.
> 
> Sawtroll may disapprove of my decision, but I think I did pretty well. This saw is doing what I need it to, and does it very nicely. It is a light, nibble saw that seems to cut well, and smoothly. Just what I was looking for. I did take it down a little to clean it up after I was done cutting. By the way, I put a HD2 air filter on it from the get go, and a rim sprocket. The filter was hardly dirty at all after about 2 hours of cutting, and I was cutting some dry, dirty stuff! I think this is a result of the pre-filtration/air separation feature of this saw. I did compare it to my MS 261 C-M, and there are noticeable differences in materials and construction throughout the saw, but the overall design is the same. I would definitely say that the 261 is built for heavier duty use than the 271, and the differences in quality are reflected in the differences in price! Just as you can really tell the difference between this saw and the "home owner" grade saws. While I am certainly glad that I was able to get the 261 and 362 earlier this month, I am really stoked about this saw. It's really perfect for my needs for what I wanted it for, and that is what it should boil down to in the end anyway. Is it a "pro saw"? No. I have those for my main firewood saws. Is it a good quality, effective saw? Seems like it so far!


 Good luck with all your saw purchases--keep us updated with the comparisons as the saws break in!


----------



## nomad_archer (May 1, 2014)

Nice objective comment Spectre. While I would love to have a 261CM I cant justify it because I already have a the 271 and it does what I need and does it well especially with a 16" bar. Now I will get a 70cc saw probably a 441CM. That I can justify but another 50cc saw when I have one that meets my needs in that department is something that I cant justify. 

What size bar are you running on the 271?


----------



## MustangMike (May 1, 2014)

I agree with the others, that was an excellent review. Best of luck with the 271 and all your saws. For someone looking for an effective lightweight saw who is on a budget, that saw seems like a really good deal. You are almost making me want one (drop the almost)!


----------



## jdhacker (May 1, 2014)

I have a 291, same saw tad bigger engine. I ran 9 gallons of fuel through it last year good saws.


----------



## anlrolfe (May 1, 2014)

So, whats in the stable now? 

After looking way back through this I've lost track. With swaps, trades, prospectives and the likes I think it's MS180, 210, 261, 271, 360 and 390??

Remind us?

The 2-smaller saws are the Wife's
The the MS261 & 271 are so close in specs that the only thing noteworthy is one in Pro Grade.
Is the 360 back in action. I may have missed that. Compression low due to high elevation. What of air leaks or lean mix?
I've got an 039 that will pull 25" B&C all week long, I suspect yours will too despite what the "haters think". At the same size and weight, your 029-S and 290 will never be missed.


----------



## MustangMike (May 1, 2014)

He's got the 362 C-M if he needs to use a longer bar. 

JD, not sure if your 044 is stock or not, but mine really woke up with the combo of a duel port muffler cover and a K&N Air Filter. However, I did put the foam outer ring over the K&N because it was picking up dirt fast.

Big difference in performance though, for very small coin.


----------



## Spectre468 (May 1, 2014)

nomad_archer said:


> Nice objective comment Spectre. While I would love to have a 261CM I cant justify it because I already have a the 271 and it does what I need and does it well especially with a 16" bar. Now I will get a 70cc saw probably a 441CM. That I can justify but another 50cc saw when I have one that meets my needs in that department is something that I cant justify.
> 
> What size bar are you running on the 271?


I'm running a 16" on both the 261 and 271. The 390 and 362 are set up with 20"s. All are 3/8" 0.050 gauge, all 33RS chipper chains.
I was able to justify the addition of the 271 despite the recent 261 purchase because I wanted to save my "pro" saws for heavy cutting. Heck, the 261 is even lighter and more powerful than the 271. But that's just it. More power isn't always a good thing. I recall using my 029 on really small stuff because it was all I had. It was, in my opinion, downright dangerous, and we added the 180 to handle little stuff and made it my Wife's limbing saw. This 271 is so smooth cutting that I think she will be able to use it safely, and enjoy it. The 210 is pushing it for her comfort level for using a saw for any length of time, but we will see. Maybe I can talk her into a few cuts with the 271 next week. If all the cutting I were to do was just stuff on our property, the 271 would probably be all I would need for a "big" saw. I was able to use it to level some pretty decent size stumps of juniper (2-3' diameter) that I had been meaning to clean up some. We do get into some fairly large stuff cutting firewood on USFS land, but nothing that the 390/362 can't handle. It's not like we are tackling sequoias or anything. I do think I may try to get into a 441C-M, or even a 461 (my preference) if and when they release a C-M version.


----------



## jdhacker (May 1, 2014)

I did open the muffler up about 2 1/2 times bigger, I still have the HD filter. I took two Douglas fir down this weekend, both around 26in, the saw ran well. I would laugh at a $500 dollar offer for my 044, it has a new wide tip 25in ES bar, it was old stock I don't think they make them any more. $56 dollars I was happy.


----------



## Spectre468 (May 1, 2014)

anlrolfe said:


> So, whats in the stable now?
> 
> After looking way back through this I've lost track. With swaps, trades, prospectives and the likes I think it's MS180, 210, 261, 271, 360 and 390??
> 
> ...



MS018c
MS210
MS271
MS261 C-M
MS390
MS362 C-M

The 360, 029, 290 are no longer. All sold or traded off.


----------



## Spectre468 (May 2, 2014)

Popped into ACE today, (Not my dealer) and thought I'd look at the saws quick. Had the crazy notion that, if need be, maybe I could get a 291 adjustable oiler kit and install it in the 271. Well, many of you may know this, but I had no idea...the 291 doesn't have an adjustable oiler either. Nor did the 311. The 391 did, as did the NOS 280, but it looks like Stihl is moving away from adjustable oilers on most of their saws. Anyone have any idea why they would do such a thing? Will the 261 oiler fit in a 271? I think I've figured out that I will need to stop the saw every 45 minutes or so and top off the oil and fuel, but for a saw that will run at least and hour on a single tank, I'm kinda bummed that I'm going through bar oil faster than the fuel. Many posts I've seen say that some folks are going through 2+ tanks of fuel to one tank of bar oil. That seems like not enough oil to me, as my saws have historically run 1:1 on bar oil and fuel consumption. I'd certainly rather have too much bar oil being used rather than not enough, but I would like to have some say in it, so to speak. Well, no biggie, as I have already come up with a solution to ensure that my bar and chain don't run dry, but I found it interesting that they did away with the adjustability. Guess it's a cost cutting measure, but it's also one less thing to break!


----------



## GrJfer (May 2, 2014)

I had an MS271 for a short time before I traded it in on a 261C-M. Ran about 2 tanks of fuel through it. It would use about 3/4 a tank of oil to a tank of fuel. Now just a thought here, but could the rim sprocket and 3/8" 0.050 gauge, 33RS chipper chain you added changed the amount of oil out put?


----------



## Spectre468 (May 2, 2014)

GrJfer said:


> I had an MS271 for a short time before I traded it in on a 261C-M. Ran about 2 tanks of fuel through it. It would use about 3/4 a tank of oil to a tank of fuel. Now just a thought here, but could the rim sprocket and 3/8" 0.050 gauge, 33RS chipper chain you added changed the amount of oil out put?


Let me be clear. I am not having any problems with the oiler. It is working just fine. I am just used to running out of fuel before bar oil. The saw is using at a rate of about 1:1, but acts like its out of oil before it is. In other words, when oil level is low but not empty, it doesn't pump oil. The only problem is that there is still fuel to run the saw. As a result, I made one small cut with a nearly dry bar and chain. I will just have to watch my fill levels/intervals more closely.


----------



## GrJfer (May 2, 2014)

Wasn't implying you were having problems. Just questioning if the different rim sprocket and 3/8 chain had any effect on the out put of oil.


----------



## njsawgeek (May 2, 2014)

So on my ms290 its the right thing to do (oiler on max setting, right)? I see only pluses with using more oil minus the cost and enviro aspects. Finally drying up some here in NJ so I might go cut / clear some trails. Anyone else like to cut after it rains? I dont want to burn down woods I dont own! So thats why I try to cut the day after a heavy rain. Of course I am not making a living outa this so I can be picky as to when I cut.


----------



## Spectre468 (May 2, 2014)

GrJfer said:


> Wasn't implying you were having problems. Just questioning if the different rim sprocket and 3/8 chain had any effect on the out put of oil.


I don't think that it would have any effect on it.


----------



## missedbass (May 3, 2014)

I'm guessing that I use about 1.5 tanks of oil to 1 tank of fuel with mine


----------



## nomad_archer (May 3, 2014)

Mine is pretty close to 1:1 as well. It doesnt seem to dry up or slow down much when the tank gets low. It may be a little lighter at the end of the tank I just have not noticed


----------



## MustangMike (May 3, 2014)

missedbass said:


> I'm guessing that I use about 1.5 tanks of oil to 1 tank of fuel with mine




That is a problem. I would not fill the gas tank, just mark where it should be filled to still have oil (sounds like it gives you plenty of run time).


----------



## missedbass (May 3, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> That is a problem. I would not fill the gas tank, just mark where it should be filled to still have oil (sounds like it gives you plenty of run time).


 Not really. the saw goes a long way on a tank of fuel. I check the oil frequently and add as needed. As far as the oil goes, I'd rather it use more than less. I also do not fill to the top. Don't have any flippy cap issues. not yet anyway


----------



## SawTroll (May 3, 2014)

GrJfer said:


> I had an MS271 for a short time before I traded it in on a 261C-M. Ran about 2 tanks of fuel through it. It would use about 3/4 a tank of oil to a tank of fuel. Now just a thought here, but could the rim sprocket and 3/8" 0.050 gauge, 33RS chipper chain you added changed the amount of oil out put?




33RS isn't chipper chain, it is *chisel*!


----------



## Spectre468 (May 3, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> 33RS isn't chipper chain, it is *chisel*!


You, sir, are of course, correct! And I stand corrected.


----------



## Spectre468 (May 6, 2014)

Does anyone know if the 261 oil pump will fit and correctly work on the 271? It looks like they would interchange...


----------



## Spectre468 (May 7, 2014)

Spectre468 said:


> Does anyone know if the 261 oil pump will fit and correctly work on the 271? It looks like they would interchange...


On further examination of my 271, and pix of the 261 oiler, they do not appear to be interchangeable. Can anyone confirm or deny?


----------



## anlrolfe (May 7, 2014)

Have you asked the dealer about this yet?

New saw = their problem


----------



## Spectre468 (May 7, 2014)

Again, no problem with the functionality of the oil pump or saw, in fact it's really a great set up. Just have a hard time with the fact that Stihl has eliminated the adjustable oiler on the newer models.


----------



## nomad_archer (May 7, 2014)

Spectre468 said:


> Again, no problem with the functionality of the oil pump or saw, in fact it's really a great set up. Just have a hard time with the fact that Stihl has eliminated the adjustable oiler on the newer models.



Would you adjust the oiler or just run it wide open all the time?


----------



## Spectre468 (May 7, 2014)

Well, I'd find the right setting that's " just right", and leave it there. I think I'm overthinking it as I do have the smaller saws with non-adjustable pumps and its been fine.


----------



## SawTroll (May 7, 2014)

Spectre468 said:


> Again, no problem with the functionality of the oil pump or saw, in fact it's really a great set up. Just have a hard time with the fact that Stihl has eliminated the adjustable oiler on the newer models.



Only on (most) "homeowner" models, not on the pro models. 

There is nothing new with that, and it isn't just Stihl that does it.....


----------



## SawTroll (May 7, 2014)

nomad_archer said:


> Would you adjust the oiler or just run it wide open all the time?



Adjust it, when full output isn't needed (and it often isn't). It does of course depend on bar length and some other factors, and some are best just left full open....


----------



## Spectre468 (May 7, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> Only on (most) "homeowner" models, not on the pro models.
> 
> There is nothing new with that, and it isn't just Stihl that does it.....


Yeah, the "homeowner" line hasn't had the adjustable oilers, but the "farm and ranch" line had been adjustable. Now, only the 391, the "top of the line" farm and ranch model, retains this feature. And, yes, the "pro" models do as well. I don't mess with any of the top handle models, so I don't know if they have changed at all.


----------



## cedarshark (May 7, 2014)

All my saws with adjustable oilers are left wide open then I do not need to worry when I (on occasion) put on a longer or shorter bar. I want the saw to run out of oil when it runs out of gas , or at least close.


----------



## Spectre468 (May 7, 2014)

cedarshark said:


> All my saws with adjustable oilers are left wide open then I do not need to worry when I (on occasion) put on a longer or shorter bar. *I want the saw to run out of oil when it runs out of gas , or at least close*.



That's what I like and what I am used to as well. This 271 seems to run on and on and on with a single tank of fuel. My bar and chain have run dry briefly because of it. I'm just gonna do a full tank of bar oil and 3/4 tank of fuel to avoid this situation. Good news is that the bar and chain are nicely oiled when there is enough oil in the tank! It would be nice to be able scale the oil back just a schosh, but it's not really that big a deal, nor is it a deal breaker. Overall, I am even happier with the 271 that I had hoped to be. It's a great saw!


----------



## missedbass (May 7, 2014)

Like I said before, because the 271 is so good on fuel you need to check the oil because it will run out before you run out of fuel


----------



## Spectre468 (May 8, 2014)

missedbass said:


> Like I said before, because the 271 is so good on fuel you need to check the oil because it will run out before you run out of fuel


Indeed!


----------



## 028 bossman (Oct 25, 2017)

So there is no way of adjusting the oiler on the new ms271's is that correct???


----------



## HarleyT (Oct 25, 2017)

Here is the oiler on the ms271. It is just a plastic body that holds one of those stick pumps in place, etc..


----------



## 028 bossman (Oct 25, 2017)

My father had a ms271 that he left me that has an adjustable oiler and i love that saw so much I figured I'd buy a brand new ms271 there are somethings that are different on them still love them both and he would be proud of me that i bought one. his is about 12-15 years old or so and still buckin like shes new


----------



## HarleyT (Oct 25, 2017)

028 bossman said:


> My father had a ms271 that he left me that has an adjustable oiler and i love that saw so much I figured I'd buy a brand new ms271 there are somethings that are different on them still love them both and he would be proud of me that i bought one. his is about 12-15 years old or so and still buckin like shes new


Do you mean the ms270 instead?


----------



## HarleyT (Oct 25, 2017)

or a 261?


----------



## HarleyT (Oct 25, 2017)

How about a pic or two?


----------



## 028 bossman (Oct 25, 2017)

I was wrong his is around 8 years old it seems like it should be more then 8 years though...


----------



## HarleyT (Oct 25, 2017)

Can you take a pic? One of where you adjust it at?


----------



## 028 bossman (Oct 25, 2017)

Yeah i will im at work right now but heres my new saw


----------



## 028 bossman (Oct 25, 2017)

If I remember right its right below the oil cap


----------



## 028 bossman (Oct 25, 2017)

HarleyT said:


> Can you take a pic? One of where you adjust it at?


I was wrong again it isa ms270!!! Dont know how the heck i got those mixed up


----------



## WorkinDirt (Oct 25, 2017)

My close to two year old 271 oils the bar better when the oil tank is full. As it gets closer to 1/2 tank and lower the bar and chain are running a little dryer. This hasnt affected me in the small firewood type diameter wood that I use it for.


----------

