# Wood Stove 500 Degrees??



## Cambium (Oct 15, 2009)

My double insulated flu is not magnetic. So I placed the thermometer on top of the stove. 

How do I get an accurate reading because to warm the rooms this thermometer shows I need it near 450 degrees which is still inside the "Burn Zone" but I'm worried it's actually to hot for the flu! Any suggestions or comments?


----------



## Coldfront (Oct 15, 2009)

I wouldn't be to worried steel won't melt until around 2500° f


----------



## Cambium (Oct 15, 2009)

LOL... Didn't even think about that but I wasn't worried about the thermometer...I was worried about a fire, the door seal, the window, and my house. LOL


----------



## Ductape (Oct 15, 2009)

Those infrared thermometers aren't very expensive anymore.


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96451


----------



## stint (Oct 15, 2009)

Most stove owners manuals tell you where on the stove surface to place thermometer for meaningful readings

Jotul Firelight sez aft corner


----------



## Coldfront (Oct 15, 2009)

It's hard to tell from the picture how far away from the walls you are, but you might want to put some heat shielding up on those walls behind the stove.


----------



## outdoorlivin247 (Oct 15, 2009)

Ductape said:


> Those infrared thermometers aren't very expensive anymore.
> 
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96451



That is what I use...I usually run my stove between 300° to 400°...


----------



## HillRat (Oct 15, 2009)

The manual for my Jotul F3 says:

"Once the stove has reached a surface temperature range 
of between 400° and 600°, adjust the primary air control 
lever as necessary to generate the heat output and burn 
time desired. 

Jøtul recommends the use of a magnetic stove top 
thermometer to monitor the surface temperature of the 
stove. The optimum surface temperature range for the 
most efficient burn is between 400° and 600°."

The diagram below this text indicates the best location for a magnetic surface thermometer is on the top of the stove, to the left or right of the stovepipe, centered front to back on the stove and centered left to right in the space between the edge of the stovepipe and the edge of the stove.


----------



## Cambium (Oct 15, 2009)

HillRat said:


> The manual for my Jotul F3 says:......



PERFECT. Thats almost where I have it..I'll move it now....I bought Vermont Castings brand new from a guy on craigslist. It was still wrapped, sealed, boxed on the crate. Here's the link for the one I got: 

http://www.vermontcastings.com/content/products/productdetails.cfm?id=204

It's 18 inches away from the sheetrock... I can keep my hand on the walls even when burning at 500 degrees.


----------



## coog (Oct 15, 2009)

Now that we got that solved, let's talk about woodboxes...


----------



## Cambium (Oct 15, 2009)

coog said:


> Now that we got that solved, let's talk about woodboxes...



LMAO.. Nahh, I just threw those down this morning because rain was coming for next 4 days and I was in a rush. I use my fireplace pit to stack the rest of them nicely. 

I'm assuming you're talking about the messy wood pile in my living room. lol


----------



## Quadrafire2 (Oct 15, 2009)

*accuracy*

Those thermometers are not that accurate anyway, I think they could be off by at least ± 50F.


----------



## HillRat (Oct 16, 2009)

Quadrafire2 said:


> Those thermometers are not that accurate anyway, I think they could be off by at least ± 50F.



That's true. I borrowed a good quality IR thermometer from a neighbor and found the magnetic thermometer I use to be pretty accurate. If you can, I suggest checking accuracy of the magnetic thermometer somehow. 

Also, as you use your stove you will get to know it pretty well, and you'll have a pretty good idea if it's operating too cold or too hot before you check the thermometer.


----------



## Dalmatian90 (Oct 16, 2009)

> Those thermometers are not that accurate anyway, I think they could be off by at least ± 50F.





> Once the stove has reached a surface temperature range
> of between 400° and 600°,



50º, however, is an adequate level of precision when given a 200º range


----------



## husky455rancher (Oct 16, 2009)

Dalmatian90 said:


> 50º, however, is an adequate level of precision when given a 200º range



:agree2:


----------



## Mr. Obvious (Oct 17, 2009)

My 2 VC magnetic thermos are very accurate compared to my sears IR gun. They are only about 6 inches apart on top of my stove and give different readings. Thought one was bad but both are pretty accurate. Suprising how much the temp can vary by just moving the thermo a few inches.


----------



## Quadrafire2 (Oct 17, 2009)

HillRat said:


> That's true. I borrowed a good quality IR thermometer from a neighbor and found the magnetic thermometer I use to be pretty accurate. If you can, I suggest checking accuracy of the magnetic thermometer somehow.
> 
> Also, as you use your stove you will get to know it pretty well, and you'll have a pretty good idea if it's operating too cold or too hot before you check the thermometer.



Unless you get a really expensive infrared thermometer those IRs are not that accurate either, the accuracy they publish is at optimum conditions and depend on the surface type. Those Rutland thermometers are really not accurate, you can get lucky and get one that is a little more accurate. But you are correct about getting to know your stove, you can really tell buy looking at the fire, how fast the flames move and how much fire is roaring. I find that the best efficiency, not maximum heat, is when you chock it and then give a little more air just to get the flames going again. This is when the stove is at least within 30 to 45 minuets from a cold start. 

When I first start the stove I open the damper and air intake all the way and leave the door a crack open for 10-15 minuets (I use a screen for safety). Then I close the door and let it burn good for another 15 to 30 minuets depending on the wood type/condition, then I close the damper all the way and leave the air intake just a little open.


----------



## wobdee (Oct 18, 2009)

Check out Condar Co. They have a great assortment of stove top and flue thermometers. The one you have is designed for external stove pipe readings. I like to monitor both stove top and internal flue temps, it gives me a better idea on whats going on.

http://www.condar.com/woodstove_landing.html


----------



## ppkgmsy (Oct 18, 2009)

Can't tell how close your stove is to the walls. Considered heat shields?


----------



## Cambium (Oct 18, 2009)

The back of stove has a heat sheild but the sides dont. The closest point to the wall is 9 inches and the other side is 11 inches. The sheetrock gets warm to the touch but I can hold my hand on it. According to manufactuer it needs to be 7 inches away at least. http://www.vermontcastings.com/catalog/elements/files/2006/1000_6017HiEfWdSt_v5_1005.pdf


Last year I just put a peice of backerboard back there and took it out for the summer...I may do that again. Those tiles are not cemented to the floor either. They can lift right up saving the hardwood floors.


----------



## Highbeam (Oct 20, 2009)

You wouldn't want to stick the meter to the outside of the double wall pipe anyway. It wouldn't tell you anything. I also have double wall stove pipe and bought a condar probe thermometer for 23$ that works great for reading the actual internal temp of the flue. Class A chimney is rated for 1000 degrees continuous and way higher for short times.

The rutland magnetic meter in the photo is meant to be stuck to the outside of a single wall stove pipe. At least that's what the "normal/overfire/too cold" designations refer to. You can use it on the stove, which I do, but disregard the range designations.

Your steel stove is fine to 800 degrees or until parts begin to glow. 450 is child's play.


----------



## Cambium (Oct 20, 2009)

Highbeam said:


> You wouldn't want to stick the meter to the outside of the double wall pipe anyway. It wouldn't tell you anything. I also have double wall stove pipe and bought a condar probe thermometer for 23$ that works great for reading the actual internal temp of the flue. Class A chimney is rated for 1000 degrees continuous and way higher for short times.
> 
> The rutland magnetic meter in the photo is meant to be stuck to the outside of a single wall stove pipe. At least that's what the "normal/overfire/too cold" designations refer to. You can use it on the stove, which I do, but disregard the range designations.
> 
> Your steel stove is fine to 800 degrees or until parts begin to glow. 450 is child's play.



It's Cast Iron.


----------



## Mike PA (Oct 20, 2009)

I never use a thermometer - too fancy for me. When it is hot in the house, I close the stove. When it is cold, I open it and listen to the draft. If the draft is roaring in, I close it down some. Otherwise, I pretty much don't worry about my chimney, at least until it turns red (doesn't happen often). I have single wall inside the house (get more heat from it).

With your chimney and set up, I don't think I'd give it a second thought. Your chimney will handle 1000+ degrees. Unless you get a chimney fire, you will be fine. Even then, you will be fine.


----------



## Highbeam (Oct 20, 2009)

Cambium said:


> It's Cast Iron.



No it's not. The pictured stove is welded plate steel, looks to be an englander or century from a hardware store. Since the trim is brass I am guessing it came from HD since Lowes gets the silver trim. Do you have a second stove?


----------

