# Keeping your seasoned firewood dry if you don't have a regular shelter for it.



## FLHX Storm (Dec 8, 2012)

I know I'm a bit green at this, but I have been reading up on the subject. 

What I've found is if the firewood to be used for the heating season is if it's left uncovered in it's stack, it will likely be too wet to burn. Covering it with a tarp will help as long as the sides are left open for air flow. Closing up the sides will promote condensation and set back the drying process several months or more. 

But, one thing I noticed in placing a tarp over the top, that there is still condensation that forms under the tarp which will migrate to the firewood. To put a stop to that, I placed a couple of sheets of roofing felt over the tops of the piles and then placed the tarp over those. I also went ahead and extended the tarp out about a foot on each side and used an old piece of conduit to keep the ends from draping down the sides and act as kind of an awning on a camping tent which keeps the rain off the sides of the pile. At the ends of the pile I secured each corner of the tarp with bungies so that as I remove some of the wood, it will still remain tight, at least for a while. But I have smaller bungies set off to the side when it becomes too loose. 

The wood I have piled in racks on the porch can still get wet due to condensation from the roof of all things. When the porch was put together, no plywood sheeting was used so it's basically all tin with the exception of the 2x6's and purlins. I went ahead and put a tarp over the piles to help keep the condensation from the roof from dripping on the piles and instead of using bungies, I used some old window weights I found in the shed to hold the tarp in place using ball bungies to attach the weights. 

I've only owned this place for 2 years now as of the 13th of this month and this is my first year of burning firewood in a wood stove so I guess y'all could say I'm getting a crash course in all of this just like I'm getting a crash course in just about everything I'm doing on the house and the rest of the property. 

I had also converted the chimney from a Class B (for propane) over to a Class A using the rigid stainless steel liner (single wall) for in the chimney itself including the cleanout at the very bottom. Double wall from the stove to the chimney. But that's another topic all together for another time 

If y'all have any additional suggestions for keeping firewood dry without a shelter, they would be appreciated.


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## mountainmandan (Dec 8, 2012)

I do not know about everyone else, but I do not cover any of my wood. I take in a week or two supply in the house, and that is it. I think it is climate related, it is not very cold here and our summers are very hot, so our wood has no problems being dry. The wood on the top of the stack acts like a roof anyway.

I have used roofing felt and noticed no difference. I couldn't cover all my wood anyway, I did 45 cords this year.

Dan


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## AIM (Dec 8, 2012)

My suggestion would be to not mess with anything to cover it. The wood just won't get all that wet from rain. When it does rain, it seems that it doesn't really soak in. 

I've covered my stacks in the past but more to keep ice from freezing everything together. I don't even do that anymore.


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## Uncle John (Dec 8, 2012)

Leave it uncovered till a few days before you burn it.


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## Ductape (Dec 8, 2012)

I do much the same as you...... mostly just cover the top of the stacks with a tarp. Honestly, I would really like to build a wood shed, with air flow through three sides. I'm afraid I'll never get my wood shed...... not because of the cost to build it, but because of the cost of the taxes on it. Unfortunately, my town is on a tear to raise taxes, without raising taxes. After talking to my neighbor, I found out the town has his small shed assessed at a $16,000 value dizzy Looks like I'll contue to tarp the tops of my piles for awhile. 

P.S. I do find a little wood a bit damp at the bottoms of my piles (on pallets), but overall its a small loss


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## FLHX Storm (Dec 8, 2012)

mountainmandan said:


> I do not know about everyone else, but I do not cover any of my wood. I take in a week or two supply in the house, and that is it. I think it is climate related, it is not very cold here and our summers are very hot, so our wood has no problems being dry. The wood on the top of the stack acts like a roof anyway.
> 
> I have used roofing felt and noticed no difference. I couldn't cover all my wood anyway, I did 45 cords this year.
> 
> Dan



I live in the mountains myself and when it rains, whew does it rain. I also have clouds that tend to just sit on the top of the mountain and sometimes sinks down far enough where it covers the house. (I just pray it doesn't fart or something)

The reason I mentioned using the felt was because when I went out to check the wood after noticing heavy dew or condensation on top of the tarp, I figured I might as well check underneath. Sure enough, it was wet! So I left the pile uncovered for most of the day to dry back out as much as possible and then decided on the roofing felt with the tarp over the top. It was either that or use that pink extruded styrofoam from home depot to help keep that moisture from coming in contact with the wood. 

Temperature wise here, it can be as much as 10 degrees one way or another from the nearest town. In winter, it can be 10 degrees below, and in the summer it can be 10 degrees above what the nearest town is which is about 5 miles away.


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## FLHX Storm (Dec 8, 2012)

Ductape said:


> I do much the same as you...... mostly just cover the top of the stacks with a tarp. Honestly, I would really like to build a wood shed, with air flow through three sides. I'm afraid I'll never get my wood shed...... not because of the cost to build it, but because of the cost of the taxes on it. Unfortunately, my town is on a tear to raise taxes, without raising taxes. After talking to my neighbor, I found out the town has his small shed assessed at a $16,000 value dizzy Looks like I'll contue to tarp the tops of my piles for awhile.
> 
> P.S. I do find a little wood a bit damp at the bottoms of my piles (on pallets), but overall its a small loss



I do have a wood shed that is now 28 x 12 feet but I'm in the process of cleaning the half out where I could store the firewood. The shed was 40 x 12 but 12 feet of it was in really bad condition since it was used as a chicken coop. So rather than rebuilt that section, I removed it and salvaged what lumber I could for other repairs or projects. 

Taxes are nuts! My place was assessed at $45k and taxed at that rate even though I purchased it for $30k. With the improvements I've made, I'm sure my taxes will be going though the roof when it is re-assessed. The condition of the place was Fair to Poor! That wasn't the selling point though. It was because of it's location being some 750 feet off the Blue Ridge Parkway (50 miles from the North Carolina/Virginia border)

Even though I do have a shed, it is clear on the other end of the property which would mean I would have to be moving the wood to an unprotected area for the winter months (lots of rain, some freezing, some snow) which is why I opened the discussion to find a way to keep the seasoned wood dry. I'm even considering covering the tops of the holz hausen's I've been putting together.


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## bowtechmadman (Dec 8, 2012)

The rain isn't going to unseason good seasoned wood. It will be wet just on the outside. Many years I burned w/o it covered. Finally put up a wood shed so I wouldn't have to deal with ice/snow. Our assessor tried that on me when I put my wood shed up...I showed her the receipts and offered to sell it to her for 13K. She had based the increase on an aerial photo once I described what it was she dropped it to 2K increase.


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## Uncle John (Dec 8, 2012)

Ductape said:


> I do much the same as you...... mostly just cover the top of the stacks with a tarp. Honestly, I would really like to build a wood shed, with air flow through three sides. I'm afraid I'll never get my wood shed...... not because of the cost to build it, but because of the cost of the taxes on it. Unfortunately, my town is on a tear to raise taxes, without raising taxes. After talking to my neighbor, I found out the town has his small shed assessed at a $16,000 value dizzy Looks like I'll contue to tarp the tops of my piles for awhile.
> 
> P.S. I do find a little wood a bit damp at the bottoms of my piles (on pallets), but overall its a small loss




Consider a metal carport. Open on 4 sides. About $800 around here for 18x21 installed.


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## Rudedog (Dec 8, 2012)

I just cover the tops of my stacks I am going to burn this winter with 6 mil plastic sheeting with a few large rocks or old fence posts to keep it from blowing away just before the first rain of September.


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## flyboy553 (Dec 8, 2012)

As a rule, I do not cover my stacks of firewood. I just don't see the need for it. And I am in MN where it has been known to snow on occasion. Rain will only make the surface wet and does not penetrate the fibers of the wood. It will dry again in no time. Very important to get as much sun and wind as possible to the entire stack.

IF I had a wood shed, the wood would not be put in it until the moisture content was on average, below 22% MC. You will wait a long time for it to dry in a shed with no sun/wind exposure.

This fall I did try combining stacking and piling, and covering with a tarp, which is all in another thread. HUGE mistake on my part. Will never do that again!! I would put a link to that thread here if I just knew how!

Ted


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## FLHX Storm (Dec 8, 2012)

flyboy553 said:


> As a rule, I do not cover my stacks of firewood. I just don't see the need for it. And I am in MN where it has been known to snow on occasion. Rain will only make the surface wet and does not penetrate the fibers of the wood. It will dry again in no time. Very important to get as much sun and wind as possible to the entire stack.
> 
> IF I had a wood shed, the wood would not be put in it until the moisture content was on average, below 22% MC. You will wait a long time for it to dry in a shed with no sun/wind exposure.
> 
> ...


No worries, I've been following the other thread and have posted a response there as well:
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/216711.htm

I figure the more I glean from this site, the better informed decisions I will make in the future and perhaps keep me from making mistakes. Even correct the mistakes I'm making now.


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## danthe (Dec 8, 2012)

I normally cut my firewood Jan-Feb and then carry it out, bucked and stack by end of June, my firewood will be well seasoned by fall. Once stacked I leave it uncovered all summer and put a tarp on at the end of Aug as the best of the drying season is over and also like other members have said it also serve to protect the wood from freezing rain and snow. I leave the tarp hang out on both side by 2 ft but I screw it on one feet down so when it is windy..(great for drying) you will see the side flap out but the top keep ant precipitation off.

I left it uncovered once a few years ago...never again. Handling icy and snow caked wood is a pain.


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## Whitespider (Dec 8, 2012)

I'll be 55 in January... I've been burning wood for heat in the house since my early 20's (with a couple of short hiatuses). Before that, both my Granddad and dad burned wood in stoves and fireplaces; so really, I’ve been around in-home wood burning since I was wearing diapers. We never “covered” firewood, and I still don’t… with the exception of (sometimes) laying some old boards or such, only on the stack(s) I plan on using that heating season, just before first snow. I don’t do it to keep the wood “dry”, it’s more so I can easily throw the ice and snow off before hauling it to the house. Some years I don’t even bother with that and just brush the snow off when I do the cars. Granddad had a woodshed (lean-to) that he would move some _fully seasoned_ firewood under just before first snow… but that was more to keep Grandma out of the weather when she stepped outside to grab an armload.

I’ve never had a problem with “wet” firewood. Sure, when it rains the top couple of rows and maybe the ends on one side of the stack (wind and rain) get a little wet, but it dries right off in a day or two… even in sub-zero weather. Rain water doesn’t “soak in”, heck most of it runs off and drips on the ground; and like I said, I rarely find wet wood any deeper than two or three rows anyway… even after three days of rain. Really, storing firewood in a shed or covering it just keeps the rain and snow off it… but it can’t stop damp, humid, foggy atmosphere from getting to the wood (unless your shed is climate controlled).

Until I joined AS I’d never heard of storing unseasoned (fresh-cut/split) firewood under cover or in a shed. A woodshed is where you stored the stuff _after_ it had fully seasoned in the open for a couple years… and few people even bother with the shed anyway.

Take those covers off your firewood so it gets plenty of air and sun when it shines… it will stay dryer in the long-run. If ya’ know a healthy rainstorm is on the way just haul enough wood under cover to last for a couple days… and if ya’ don’t it ain’t a big deal… three rows down will be dry firewood, and the wet stuff will be dry tomorrow. Heck, haul some rain-wet firewood in the house and set it by the hot stove, it’ll be bone-dry in an hour or two… even less than an hour, depending. For that matter, just toss it in the hot stove; it ain’t like ya’ do it every day, and the wood is only “wet” on the outside… it ain’t like you’re tossing “green” firewood in there.

If ya’ want a woodshed then you should have one… but only use it to store _fully seasoned_ firewood.
Personally, I don't care to handle and move mine that much.


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## darkbyrd (Dec 8, 2012)

You aren't far from me, just higher elevation. Hi neighbor!

Just cover what you are about to use, when it is dry. If it is already seasoned, you can wrap it up tight. Surface moisture isn't a problem, but it does make it harder to get a fire going. I keep about 2 weeks worth on pallets near the door, and cover with a tarp when weather is expected. I have some lumber tarps I cut up and use on a couple of the stacks that will be coming to the house soon, so they are also dry. But I didn't cover anything until a month ago. I stack all my wood on pallets, sometimes 2 pallets high. Best thing I've done for getting and keeping the wood dry.


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## stihl023/5 (Dec 8, 2012)

I only cover the top to keep the snow and ice off.:msp_ohmy:


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## Whitespider (Dec 8, 2012)

stihl023/5 said:


> *I only cover the top to keep the snow and ice off.*



And there is considerable merit to doing that... if'n ya' live where snow and ice are commonplace and happen often enough to justify doing it. Normal years, 'round here, that would mean covering sometime after Thanksgiving.


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## Freakingstang (Dec 8, 2012)

best thing is to let it air dry, uncovered out in the open.... Then before winter..cover just the top to keep fresh rain or snow off of it.. make sure you keep it off the ground. i use pallets on top of treated pressure treated 4x4's.


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## stihl023/5 (Dec 8, 2012)

I only cover in winter after it is moved near the house.


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## slowp (Dec 8, 2012)

This all depends on your climate. If I can get the stack to stay upright  I cover the just cut firewood with some sheets of metal roofing and then maybe a tarp on top of that. Sides are left open. Then, after sitting that way through the summer, I move it into a shed in the fall. It'll go in the back. So far, I've only used about half the wood in the shed during a full winter, so the next fall, that wood gets moved up to the front.

Wood won't get dry here if left uncovered. It rots. I made the mistake of throwing a tarp over what I'd thrown out of the pickup and split. After a couple of weeks, the wood was starting to grow fungi. 

We have 9 months, or more, of wet weather. This year, we had a very dry August and September, and I uncovered the woodpile for that. I'm starting to ponder building another woodshed, but with all open sides on it. 

We cut our firewood in the fall and winter months and that is for burning in the winter after the winter. Confused yet?

Oops. That's the unseasoned stuff. It is seasoning. The year old stuff definitely goes into my converted woodshed complete with a plywood floor. Seasoned wood has to be under some kind of rain protection, or it isn't seasoned.


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## woodsroad (Dec 8, 2012)

I cover the stacks with EPDM roofing scraps. Wood is stored criss-cross on 40x48 plastic pallets, the EPDM is cut to just hang over the sides a bit. Why? Ice and snow for sure, but also because moisture encourages bugs and rot. 

I find that once the wood is covered, the insect population begins to drop. Yeah, they head over to my piles of uncovered logs, I'm sure, but I find that covered seasoned wood is heavier and burns better than uncovered wood. 

This year, I'm also trying something new to keep the ants in check. After splitting a couple of black locusts that had sizable ant colonies, I started spraying the stacks with a weak Borax solution. About a cup of Borax to 3 gal of warm water in a sprayer. A friend of mine has been doing this for several years and says it has eliminated all ant colonies from the woodpile. No downsides to burning borax treated wood, unlike pesticides. I also sprayed the log piles.


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## Sethsfirewood (Dec 8, 2012)

This is what I do. I sell close to 30 cords a year and I have limited space, so efficiently stacking my supply is imperative. 

I stack mine on 4'x4' pallets and 5' feet high. (Straight stacked it would be 4'x4'x4', however since it is cross stacked, you have to add an extra foot so it is easy to measure out 1/4 and 1/2 cord sales)

Unfortunately, I do not have the space to organize these in a line and probably at most I have had them in a formation of 5 deep by 13 long. I understand that this is not optimal, but I suppose it is what it is. I cover them with 6'x8' tarps from my local Lowes and I fold over the excess tarp and then place four 23" cedar logs in a square on top to weigh down the top. 

Listen guys, there are so many factors which go into drying wood and while everyone has their specific way of doing things, the climate, location, environmental factors (sunshine and wind flow levels), types of wood, greenness of wood, location of growing environment, etc. all play a factor in the quality of properly seasoned firewood.

For me, allowing rain and snow to infiltrate my stacks have proven to be less than effective. In my experience, sunlight only affects the top layers, but rain and melting snow permeate and fester in the stack. 

Hope this helps, but overall, I believe experience will prove to be the best solution as everyone's situation is different. I for one cover and protect the wood.


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## Retired (Dec 8, 2012)

When I bought this place (from an estate) I was delighted that there was about 10 cords of split wood stacked in the timber behind the house. The old boy who owned the place before me had been in the nursing home 5 years, so I figure everything in those stacks was at least 6 years old, and the majority more like 10 years.

When I dug into those stacks I was a little disappointed. This was about half oak and the rest hickory and walnut. From 10 cords I salvaged about 1 cord. By dissecting those piles I made my own rules for my own wood:

1) Don't stack on the ground. The big culprit here was varmints digging in and throwing dirt up into the stack. Oddly enough there were about 30 pallets out there that he never used.

2) Don't stack more than two rows deep. These stacks were 5 deep and it was apparent that the middle got wet and didn't have enough air flow to dry back out.

3) Start your stack with the cover, finish your stack with the cover. By this I mean know what size your cover is going to be, and make your stack such that it will fit under your cover. I learned that a 14' sheet of tin on an 18' stack of wood really doesn't help that much. 

"here": I put down 8 pallets, two rows of 20" wood, and cover with 4 sheets of corrugated tin. That gives me some overlap every way.

4) Use the cover. "Here" the big culprit was not moisture so much as leaves and other debris falling in from the top. What little wood I did salvage was under a sheet of tin. Again, oddly enough, there was about 36 sheets of 14' tin out there in a pile, unused.

5) Stack in loose, don't pack it tight. I swear the old boy who was here thought he had to pack every space with a stick. The majority of what I salvaged was pieces almost too big to pick up with one hand, bark off, mostly unsplit. The worst of what I discarded was packed tight and either had it's bark on or was packed in with sticks that had the bark on, drawing moisture.

I move about a cord of wood into the basement just before I need it. I've got about 10 cords of my own splitting out at the edge of the timber now.

Good luck.

Dave


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## c5rulz (Dec 8, 2012)

I agree with Whitespider.

Wood exposed to wind and sun dries faster and rain/snow is just a temporary nuisance. If it's wet or snow covered that is just the surface of the splits, the wood is set in the stack near the stove and will not be used for a couple weeks. It will dry within a couple days being near the stove. 

I dry on pallets off the ground and no more than two stacks wide.


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## Ayatollah (Dec 8, 2012)

Although in most cases cured wood will dry fairly quickly when brought in from the immediate weather, When you put wet wood in, the steam generated inside your fireplace/woodstove will further soot sticking to the sides of it as it travels upwards. I've seen the difference immediately

I built two little woodsheds this past year, and I've been keeping what won't fit under them covered for the most part. Plus, it looks all nice and tidy


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## Big_Al (Dec 8, 2012)

Here we have hot dry summers & early fall, usually get pretty cool & wet in Oct-Nov. Winters are cold and snowy. So my wood is uncovered all summer , covered with tarp on top when late fall arrives. Never liked having to carry in a bunch of snow covered wood.


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## stihl023/5 (Dec 8, 2012)

Big_Al said:


> Here we have hot dry summers & early fall, usually get pretty cool & wet in Oct-Nov. Winters are cold and snowy. So my wood is uncovered all summer , covered with tarp on top when late fall arrives. Never liked having to carry in a bunch of snow covered wood.



+1:msp_thumbup:


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## shades2914 (Dec 8, 2012)

I stack mine on pallets 2 rows on the outside of the pallet with a space in the middle for air flow. Then I take a lumber wrapper and cut it in half the long way. Then flip it upside down, the ones I get are black on bottom. I feel like the sun hitting it makes it even warmer. Only the top is covered. With the wind and sun I've never had trouble with having dry wood.


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## turnkey4099 (Dec 8, 2012)

I dont' cover my stacks at all. My "wood for this season" is moved from the ouitside stacks to the woodshed and back porch. If I run out (happens sometimes in spring) I haul from the outside stacks. Snow covered/wet from rain? I toss the top layer or two aside and am into dry wood.

Harry K


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## H 2 H (Dec 8, 2012)

In the summer mine starts here







Goes to here before winter starts











Than into the garage 






And the stuff I'm getting now I stack it in stacks like this (But this is a small one)






I'm in the PNW and it does rain a little up here


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## Fred Wright (Dec 8, 2012)

Sounds like you've got it right. 

I've been working on getting two years ahead in firewood. The stack I made last year is covered on top with 6-mil black plastic. The stack we're currently using is covered as well. The stack I'm working up now, I won't cover it until next fall.

I agree that exposure to rain probably won't harm seasoned firewood. But I just don't care for fussing with the stuff when it's been rained or snowed on. Several days of rain and damp weather make for a mess. Snow slides off the plastic cover and the wood is nice and dry. 

A split that's been covered and is bone-dry beats one than one that's been laying out in the rain. The wet split has to dry out in the stove before it'll catch. Been there & done that, never again. I'll keep my wood covered on top, thanks very much. 

The top cover will have some condensation underneath but as long as you get good airflow under it, it shouldn't be a problem.


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## Mac88 (Dec 8, 2012)

We keep around 8 cords in the woodshed, usually enough for the winter. The remainder is stacked outdoors, on skids, uncovered. After winter we clean out the shed and refill it with wood from outside. It's dry by the time we need it.


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## woodbooga (Dec 9, 2012)

slowp said:


> This all depends on your climate. If I can get the stack to stay upright  I cover the just cut firewood with some sheets of metal roofing and then maybe a tarp on top of that. Sides are left open. Then, after sitting that way through the summer, I move it into a shed in the fall. It'll go in the back. So far, I've only used about half the wood in the shed during a full winter, so the next fall, that wood gets moved up to the front.
> 
> *Wood won't get dry here if left uncovered. It rots. I made the mistake of throwing a tarp over what I'd thrown out of the pickup and split. After a couple of weeks, the wood was starting to grow fungi. *
> 
> ...



I hear what you're saying pertaining to climate - but I wonder if the wood you have available in the PNW is part of the mix too. Certainly, my maple and oak will sprout shrooms. But softwoods seem especially sensitive to environment. I do burn a goodly amount of while pine. Seems that if errant water finds a knot, it will permeate the heartwood and essentially need to be reseasoned in some cases. Or at least need a couple of good dry weeks to dry off after a soaking rain.

Around here in NH, there's a fair number of frugal yankees that will fuss with white pine but will buck between the whorls, leaving 2"-8" bucks of knots in the woods to obviate the problem.

Personally, everything gets sheded for me. Keeping wood under a roof allows you to burn punky/semispongey wood that's perfectly good dry - but which sponges up water and creates a rolling smoulder in the fire box.


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## Deleted member 83629 (Dec 9, 2012)

i stack mine on the front porch makes it easier too


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## Whitespider (Dec 9, 2012)

Retired said:


> *1) Don't stack on the ground.
> 2) Don't stack more than two rows deep.
> 3) Start your stack with the cover, finish your stack with the cover.
> 4) Use the cover.
> 5) Stack in loose, don't pack it tight.*



Or you could just stack on a moisture barrier, in single rows, out in the open, in full sun...


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## VTWoodchuck (Dec 9, 2012)

Whitespider said:


> Or you could just stack on a moisture barrier, in single rows, out in the open, in full sun...



Dang, that looks nice. :msp_thumbup:


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## deepsouth (Dec 9, 2012)

So far I have aimed to fill up my undercover areas with already dry timber for next winter (being southern hemisphere, its now summer)..... I have under the front stairs (which are concrete) which takes about 1.5 cubic meters in a double stack, and under the side ramp, which takes maybe 2 cubic metres in a double stack......

Once they fill, I am out in the open, and have a 1000 square meter block (1/4 acre) to do what I want with. I do have a pretty large stack space set aside already for green timber I cut over winter that is in the open. The weather here is relatively mild, rarely get a frost due to being coastal and on the coast side of a ridge. Downside is exposure to driving rain and 50 knot winds in the winter storms.

Have thought about a woodshed but it would need 2-3 sides as we get the worst weather off Bass Strait from the North to North West, but equally can get nasty southerlys too..... and I need to season the Eucalypt (hardwood) I get - some is dead standing or just fallen dead dry timber off a block my boss has further south in a dry area, other is cut under permit from state forest from logging residue - tops, split trunks, etc.

And finally, I have decided it will just be easier to have a small steel shed or woodbox to move dry wood to for a reserve for bad weather (also noting that once the under stair/ramp storage areas are used they could be refilled on a dry day.....) so that is the plan - just need to get enough wood in for a year or two yet......

Might just be easier to get the 3.2 ton tandem trailer I want for wood getting - and put a roof on that, and burn direct out of it if I've been cutting dead dry timber....


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## Retired (Dec 9, 2012)

Whitespider said:


> Or you could just stack on a moisture barrier, in single rows, out in the open, in full sun...



Nice buck. What do you use for a moisture barrier?


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## Whitespider (Dec 9, 2012)

Old, used, vinyl siding.


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## sb47 (Dec 9, 2012)

Down here I just stack it on pallets, 4’ high in rows and just lay a piece of old plywood or something of that sort on top and leave the rest open.
The plywood keeps the bulk of the rain off and it can air dry with no problems.
No tarp or plastic, they tend to trap moisture.


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## D&B Mack (Dec 10, 2012)

I stack two rows wide with:

Bailey's - EZ Stacker Firewood Log Brackets

Use 1/8" plywood painted black to lay across the top.

However, I leave the stacks uncovered from the end of March till the end of September.

For ####s and giggles, I took a split of oak that was out in the rain for the past few days uncovered. I re-split in half and checked moisture content. 16%. Wouldn't be good to try starting it, but it had no problems burning. :wink2:


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## zogger (Dec 10, 2012)

FLHX Storm said:


> I know I'm a bit green at this, but I have been reading up on the subject.
> 
> What I've found is if the firewood to be used for the heating season is if it's left uncovered in it's stack, it will likely be too wet to burn. Covering it with a tarp will help as long as the sides are left open for air flow. Closing up the sides will promote condensation and set back the drying process several months or more.
> 
> ...



I haven't done it yet, as I don't have enough pallets, but I was thinking use the pallets for stacking both on the bottom of the stack, and on the top. Then cover just that pallet at the top, and not much of the sides at all, just a teeny drip edge maybe.. That would leave an air space at the top as well, promote good airflow, but run the water off and keep condensation away rom the actual firewood. This side of a proper woodshed, perhaps that could work on the cheap.

Perhaps, in addition to the flat pallet on top, run one long pressure treated down the middle, to act as a ridge, then the tarp is not touching the pallet much and will run the water off better and provide even more free air space.


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## howellhandmade (Dec 11, 2012)

zogger said:


> I haven't done it yet, as I don't have enough pallets, but I was thinking use the pallets for stacking both on the bottom of the stack, and on the top. Then cover just that pallet at the top, and not much of the sides at all, just a teeny drip edge maybe.. That would leave an air space at the top as well, promote good airflow, but run the water off and keep condensation away rom the actual firewood. This side of a proper woodshed, perhaps that could work on the cheap.
> 
> Perhaps, in addition to the flat pallet on top, run one long pressure treated down the middle, to act as a ridge, then the tarp is not touching the pallet much and will run the water off better and provide even more free air space.



I do this. It works just like you say. The splits on top don't get wet from condensation under the cover. And tarps last longer. I don't put a peak like you suggest, I just angle the pallets a bit like a shed roof. I'd rather have a shed, but I don't.


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## sb47 (Dec 11, 2012)

I tried using those blue tarps to cover my wood. The tarps degrade fairly quickly and water gets through.
I found that just stacking on a pallet, then just laying a piece of plywood over the top works best for me.
I cut most of my wood at 20” and 18”. A four foot pallet allows me to stack 2 rows with about 8/10 inches in between the rows.
This has worked the best for me.


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## practicaldesign (Feb 23, 2013)

Hi. Most people around here use both well seasoned wood and green firewood during the fall and winter. I don't recommend using construction material covering tarps, as they are prone to holding moisture and promoting dry rot. I normally use 30mill tarps or sheets of metal to cover my cords and the covers are suspended about 4-6" above each cord. An area with a light dry breeze is quite useful to slowly season the wood. Cords elevated off the ground to keep ground humidity out and let rain splatter dry up. With white birch bark side has to be upward, aspen bark downward.
I try not to have the cords in direct sunlight for long periods of time during the day. If the wood dries too quickly it looses a-lot of it's value and you end up with a fast heat up that lasts about 15-20 minutes then you have to refill the furnace again.


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## Como (Feb 23, 2013)

I keep a couple of cord on hand, the rest is uncovered, in moving it the snow tends to fall away.


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## 7hpjim (Feb 23, 2013)

FLHX Storm said:


> I know I'm a bit green at this, but I have been reading up on the subject.
> 
> What I've found is if the firewood to be used for the heating season is if it's left uncovered in it's stack, it will likely be too wet to burn. Covering it with a tarp will help as long as the sides are left open for air flow. Closing up the sides will promote condensation and set back the drying process several months or more.
> 
> ...



I didnt read the whole thread but this is how i use tarps, I cut skids/pallets to in half and set them on top of the rows first to give the tarps some airspace between wood and tarp and then tie the tarps down as tightly as possible, try to get tarps that overhang the sides by only a foot or so you get better airflow, for attachment points I take the cordless drill and drive in drywall screws and make sure to use poly cord not cotton clothes line because the cotton gets wet and freezes solid making untying quite difficult, hope this helps!!


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## 7hpjim (Feb 23, 2013)

I went ahead and put a tarp over the piles to help keep the condensation from the roof from dripping on the piles and instead of using bungies, I used some old window weights I found in the shed to hold the tarp in place using ball bungies to attach the weights. 
If you change your own oil which I do and I have 3 vehicles so the big jugs built up fast, I use the jugs refilled with the old oil for tarp weights also. but I found that tying to attachment points gets the tarp tighter so it doesn't get low spots that fill with water and snow as badly.


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## Dusty Rhodes (Feb 23, 2013)

Storm, I cover my outside wood with a tarp on the top only. I put stickers on the top layer of wood to raise the tarp slightly so there is some air flow immediately under the tarp so it is not trapping the moisture coming off the wood. Maybe it does not help, but my pea brain says that allowing drying wood to get soaked through the top few layers by rain is the opposite of what I am trying to achieve. Your idea of using the window weights to hold your tarps down will work. Put a few bricks on top of the tarp as well and it will take a very strong wind to blow the tarp off the pile. I move my seasoned or partially seasoned firewood for the coming winter into a wood shed. The shed is built so that I get air flow under the shed and up through the floor, through the side and back walls and up through the eaves. The gaps in the sidewalls and floor are probably about 1/8 to 1/4" I am sure sunlight helps the wood dry out, but I think the airflow is key. Will uncovered wood dry outside? I am sure it will, but some species I think will probably begin to rot( birch and soft maple for me) in some climates before it dries. As I am sure you are aware getting the first layer of wood off the ground is a necessity or it will indeed rot from ground contact. My Amish neighbor burns wood and he does not have a covered outside stack anywhere. He lets it outside, rain or shine until he moves a large portion of it into his garage. I guess it sees a few weeks or a month or so in his garage before it makes its way into his wood stove. I can't imagine that it would not be seasoned and that he would be burning green wood. Each to their own, and obviously un covered firewood works out for a lot a people. The first year I had my OWB, I had firewood in piles out back and filled the new wood shed in early spring so the wood that was cut that winter did not really get any dry time until it hit the shed. By the time winter rolled around the wood was checked and cracked and was fine for burning come the following winter. I am just trying to get a few years ahead so what is out by the pole building gets put onto pallets and the tops covered the first spring and fall and the following spring when the shed is empty it will go there for the coming winter. Why don't you do your own experiment and stack two cords in the same general area, with the same sunshine and airflow, one covered and the other uncovered and the following year burn each and see if you notice any difference. Then you can share your wisdom with the rest of us and maybe we'll learn something.


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## allstihl (Feb 24, 2013)

after one summer when it seemed to rain every day my wood grew mushrooms. i broke down and built the woodshed that fall.


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## Hellbent (Feb 24, 2013)

Ductape said:


> I do much the same as you...... mostly just cover the top of the stacks with a tarp. Honestly, I would really like to build a wood shed, with air flow through three sides. I'm afraid I'll never get my wood shed...... not because of the cost to build it, but because of the cost of the taxes on it. Unfortunately, my town is on a tear to raise taxes, without raising taxes. After talking to my neighbor, I found out the town has his small shed assessed at a $16,000 value dizzy loss



That is just plain nuts! I used to live in a suburban county and they only taxed "permanent" structures. If you put whatever it was on skids they couldn't levy tax on you. It would be worth a trip to the county appraisers office to find out the rules. Always ask your questions in a very general way and start of with " I've seen some people do this...why?"

On the wood shed front have you ever thought of " other" methods of construction? Old barn boards, small harbor freight greenhouses, bend cattle panel into hoop structure and cover with tarp? Around here you can buy a good sized old grain bin maybe 10 or12 ft diameter for about $300-500. Saw it in half, lay the halves on the ground any you have two small Quonset style firewood huts. They'd probably hold 3-4 cords each.

Just some ideas. Hellbent


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## savageactor7 (Feb 24, 2013)

You can cobble something like this if you're out in the country...too hideous for a development though.


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## Incomplete (Feb 24, 2013)

Clear visqueen, heavy mil, then stapled to the split ends with a hammer tacker or a construction stapler. Cheaper and more durable than tarping. The clear plastic works like a green house, the short sides means moisture condenses, then drips off sides (where it's able). I don't know why you wouldn't want to keep excess moisture off your stack. Or why you would want to handle the wood ten times. It doesn't take much labor or material (I've reused a cover once already) I split this elm in November at the onset of foul weather here, and it burns just fine, not perfect, but it wants to burn as apposed to just boiling. I was pleasantly surprised. 
View attachment 281269


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## turnkey4099 (Feb 24, 2013)

Originally Posted by Ductape 
I do much the same as you...... mostly just cover the top of the stacks with a tarp. Honestly, I would really like to build a wood shed, with air flow through three sides. I'm afraid I'll never get my wood shed...... not because of the cost to build it, but because of the cost of the taxes on it. Unfortunately, my town is on a tear to raise taxes, without raising taxes. After talking to my neighbor, I found out the town has his small shed assessed at a $16,000 value () loss



Hellbent said:


> That is just plain nuts! I used to live in a suburban county and they only taxed "permanent" structures. If you put whatever it was on skids they couldn't levy tax on you. It would be worth a trip to the county appraisers office to find out the rules. Always ask your questions in a very general way and start of with " I've seen some people do this...why?"
> 
> <snip>
> 
> Just some ideas. Hellbent



Yep, nuts it is. Before I would proceed after hearing a story like that I would be checkingwith the assessor's office. If it sounds too outlandish to be true...

Harry K


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## Bushmans (Feb 24, 2013)

Just a few minutes ago I backed the pick up to the wood pile and loaded it. Backed it into the garage and right into the house with most of it. All oak that has been uncovered since it arrived on my property last winter. I had to knock the couple inches of snow off the top but it will burn just fine, especially after being in the warm house for a day or so. 
I do cover wood sometimes but that is only because it is on the downhill slide of being good firewood. (Some old tops that were starting to punk out.) I had a bunch of 2'x3' sheets of plywood from work that I lay on top of the rows and hold down with oddball splits. I need those to dry without added moisture from rain and snow.
You can see the plywood on top of these rows. The rest is wide open. Sometimes I will get out my Echo back pack blower and blow the snow off the entire lot if I think its getting to thick.

View attachment 281273






If you get a lot of rain and humidity I would suggest some sort of top like the plywood. Paint it and it will last even longer.


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## scotte303 (Feb 24, 2013)

Whitespider said:


> I'll be 55 in January... I've been burning wood for heat in the house since my early 20's (with a couple of short hiatuses). Before that, both my Granddad and dad burned wood in stoves and fireplaces; so really, I’ve been around in-home wood burning since I was wearing diapers. We never “covered” firewood, and I still don’t… with the exception of (sometimes) laying some old boards or such, only on the stack(s) I plan on using that heating season, just before first snow. I don’t do it to keep the wood “dry”, it’s more so I can easily throw the ice and snow off before hauling it to the house. Some years I don’t even bother with that and just brush the snow off when I do the cars. Granddad had a woodshed (lean-to) that he would move some _fully seasoned_ firewood under just before first snow… but that was more to keep Grandma out of the weather when she stepped outside to grab an armload.
> 
> I’ve never had a problem with “wet” firewood. Sure, when it rains the top couple of rows and maybe the ends on one side of the stack (wind and rain) get a little wet, but it dries right off in a day or two… even in sub-zero weather. Rain water doesn’t “soak in”, heck most of it runs off and drips on the ground; and like I said, I rarely find wet wood any deeper than two or three rows anyway… even after three days of rain. Really, storing firewood in a shed or covering it just keeps the rain and snow off it… but it can’t stop damp, humid, foggy atmosphere from getting to the wood (unless your shed is climate controlled).
> 
> ...



Exactly, I only cover when snow is in the forecast... also, think of an old wood boat...it would sink if it absorbed the water...


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## brenndatomu (Feb 24, 2013)

Make your own convertible "green house" type structure.

I can't take credit for this idea, I read it on here somewhere before. Never actually have done it, but it's a great idea! 

Get some of those wire cattle/hog fence panels(48"x16' $20 or so on sale at farm stores) Lay the panel out flat on the ground, then lift it up in the middle making a dome shape out of it, then stake the ends down. Keep repeating this, butting the panels up, wiring them together, 4' at a time, 'til your desired length is reached. At this point you should have a long dome shaped wire frame. Now you can stack wood in it and roll a tarp over it as needed. I'd leave the tarp up a foot or so off the ground for air flow, and maybe leave the ends open, make yourself a genuine wind tunnel. Wouldn't be too hard to roll the tarp up on nice days and drop it down on rainy/snowy days. If you stack on pallets, this structure should keep your wood dry, the tax guy off your case, and your wallet happy. Not too ugly, and, it can be torn down and moved very easily! :msp_thumbsup:


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## TeeMan (Feb 25, 2013)

After the wood has time to season 6 months that I find is the minimum, I cover with corrugated roofing panels on top of my racks. I used to use blue tarps, but as stated earlier in this thread, the tarps deteriorate quickly. In South Louisiana we don’t have to worry about the snow or ice (maybe just a handful of freezes, but that burns off early morning). The roofing cover is basically to just keep rain off the seasoned wood.


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## Saddle Mander (Dec 17, 2013)

Maybe in a few years I will see the light, but for now.....

Once I heard snow was coming, I used tarps to cover a section of my wood supply (but left the sides open). I just didn't want to deal with snow, ice, and water from now until who knows when. Once the weather clears, I'll flip the tarp off. When I hear of the next storm (not FLHX) coming in, I'll retarp for the duration.


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