# Used a coos bay in a tree today



## murphy4trees (Nov 24, 2008)

Pg 309 of Gerry Breranek's book, "the fundamentals of general tree work", describes the coos bay cut which is primarily used as a safe wat to fall heavy head leaners, because it minimizes the risk of barber chairing or splitting the trunk. The basic idea is to leave a thin strip of holding wood down the middle of the tree, directly in line with the direction of lean. SO for example if the tree was leaning north, the faller would cut in from both sides (east and west)with just a straight kerf cut, leaving a 2-4" strip of wood running down the middle of the tree from south to north... Then the tree would be tripped by cutting that strip from the back side, south) until the tree just pops off the stump. Very little fiber pull and very little chance of splitting the trunk, though Beranek warns that side weight can cause the tree to twist and split.

I mostly use this cut when trimming logs to length for the mill, because it prevents the logs from splitting, and leaves a nice clean cut.

Today I was taking down a 85-95' backyard locust, with a big nasty old rip up about 65-75' from some old storm damage. There didn;t look like there was much decay, and locust is strong wood, and still I wasn't wanting to climb any higher if I didn;t need to... 

The remainder of the top had a fair lean, and I could have easily notched it in the direction of lean, but there were a couple other trees nearby and it would have fallen into some of their upper limbs causing minor damage most likely. It did occur to me though that if the tips hung up long enough for the but to swing out, when the top broke free the tips could end up coming back at me. So the optimal cut would have the limb fall striaght down, where it wouldn't reach the tips of the nearby trees... 

The coos bay worked like a charm... the top just popped off the cut and fell straight down in its tracks... Its a pretty good cut for head leaners in the tree, though here I was using it more to get the piece to drop straight than to prevent barber chairing. Good to add to the bag of tricks and faster than cutting a notch and plunge cutting for a back release..


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## BCMA (Nov 24, 2008)

murphy4trees said:


> Pg 309 of Gerry Breranek's book, "the fundamentals of general tree work", describes the coos bay cut which is primarily used as a safe wat to fall heavy head leaners, because it minimizes the risk of barber chairing or splitting the trunk. The basic idea is to leave a thin strip of holding wood down the middle of the tree, directly in line with the direction of lean. SO for example if the tree was leaning north, the faller would cut in from both sides (east and west)with just a straight kerf cut, leaving a 2-4" strip of wood running down the middle of the tree from south to north... Then the tree would be tripped by cutting that strip from the back side, south) until the tree just pops off the stump. Very little fiber pull and very little chance of splitting the trunk, though Beranek warns that side weight can cause the tree to twist and split.
> 
> I mostly use this cut when trimming logs to length for the mill, because it prevents the logs from splitting, and leaves a nice clean cut.
> 
> ...



That sounds like an interesting cut. I'll need to look it up. I might suggest making a kerf undercut to prevent ripping wood.


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## Metals406 (Nov 24, 2008)

murphy4trees said:


> Pg 309 of Gerry Breranek's book, "the fundamentals of general tree work", describes the coos bay cut which is primarily used as a safe wat to fall heavy head leaners, because it minimizes the risk of barber chairing or splitting the trunk. The basic idea is to leave a thin strip of holding wood down the middle of the tree, directly in line with the direction of lean. SO for example if the tree was leaning north, the faller would cut in from both sides (east and west)with just a straight kerf cut, leaving a 2-4" strip of wood running down the middle of the tree from south to north... Then the tree would be tripped by cutting that strip from the back side, south) until the tree just pops off the stump. Very little fiber pull and very little chance of splitting the trunk, though Beranek warns that side weight can cause the tree to twist and split.
> 
> I mostly use this cut when trimming logs to length for the mill, because it prevents the logs from splitting, and leaves a nice clean cut.
> 
> ...



Hmmm, you have a drawing or photo of this technique? Sounds interesting.


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## 1I'dJak (Nov 25, 2008)

faller friend of mine mentioned that cut to me as well...but called a 'westcoaster'.... i tried it on a 40'hard lean alder and it didn't barberchair... like u said, good to add to the bag of tricks


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## gavin (Nov 25, 2008)

for large heavy leaners, this is from the infoflips we have to carry in b.c.:


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## windthrown (Nov 25, 2008)

Cool flip pages on cutting... where do you get them?


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## murphy4trees (Nov 25, 2008)

gavin.. yah that's the right idea, but no 1/4 undercut... the strip of holding wood goes all the way across the tree..


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## ray benson (Nov 25, 2008)

windthrown said:


> Cool flip pages on cutting... where do you get them?



The on-line version. B.C. Faller Training Standard BK96 a 2 part download, each about 1 mb.
http://www2.worksafebc.com/Portals/Forestry/General.asp


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## gavin (Nov 25, 2008)

murphy4trees said:


> gavin.. yah that's the right idea, but no 1/4 undercut... the strip of holding wood goes all the way across the tree..



the 1/4 is the depth of the undercut compared to the diameter. the holding wood does go all the way across the tree.


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## gavin (Nov 25, 2008)

windthrown said:


> Cool flip pages on cutting... where do you get them?



you can download them from teh site the guy posted, but i don't think i'd ever be able to figure out how to cut them out and glue them together. the b.c. forest safety council (the organization that does all the certification) sells them on nice ducksback-kinda paper for $25. or i think you can get them from the printing company (flip productions or something like that).


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## windthrown (Nov 25, 2008)

Cool. Up to now the best simple falling sites I have found are all in Canada.


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## murphy4trees (Nov 25, 2008)

The cut Gavin posted is NOT THE CUT I AM TALKING ABOUT!

In reviewing the diagrams, I noticed my last post improperly used "holding wood" to refer to the strip of wood that runs parrallell with the direction of fall .. So in the interest of complete clarity... The cut I used has no undercut or "holdiong wood" as per gavin's diagrams. 

There are only three cuts made... one on each side leaving a strip of wood running dead center through the tree in line with the direction of fall, and a third cut to release that strip from back to front.

So in Gavin's diagrams, option A (the one on the left).. the strip of wood left after the first two cuts is similar to the strip of wood with the arrow from #4 running down it, except that the strip runs all the way through the tree completely across the diameter of the tree. 

I hope that is clear, I know it is redundant.


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## randyg (Nov 25, 2008)

gavin said:


> for large heavy leaners, this is from the infoflips we have to carry in b.c.:





Is this cut for side lean trees or heavy leaners intending to fall in the same direction as the lean?

The "low side / high side" notation on either side of the hinge is throwin me off.


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## randyg (Nov 25, 2008)

murphy4trees said:


> The cut Gavin posted is NOT THE CUT I AM TALKING ABOUT!
> 
> In reviewing the diagrams, I noticed my last post improperly used "holding wood" to refer to the strip of wood that runs parrallell with the direction of fall .. So in the interest of complete clarity... The cut I used has no undercut or "holdiong wood" as per gavin's diagrams.
> 
> ...




Hey Murph.
If you did undercut first like Gavins pic shows, might be a better cut than the one you used. A little more time to set it up, but far less likely for the limb or top to decide to tip to one side or the other or twist even? Not that you are going to be leaving hinge wood, you can still race through that strap to the holding wood and cut it to. Undercut the bottom thickness of kerf, not a notch (face cut) and when saw hits the holding wood it will just pop and VOILA, same results as the cut you made, but a margin of saftey built in?


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## gavin (Nov 25, 2008)

the cuts are for falling with the lean (but as we all know with big heavy leaners you want to fall them a bit off the direction of lean) the numbers in the circles are the sequence of cuts. you do cut the thin strip down the middle, you jsut do it last. the idea is that the strip holds the tree, but with less wood so you can can cut through it fast to reduce the amount of holding wood left when the tree goes to reduce barber chair.


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## Metals406 (Nov 25, 2008)

Seems to me, that if you used a cut like this, the tree would run the risk of falling to either side.


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## Blakesmaster (Nov 25, 2008)

*From what I've gathered...*

The cut murph was describing has nothing to do with the cut first pictured. The cut first pictured I use all the time when I don't want a heavy leaning limb to fall leaves first, catch air and swing the butt back towards the tree. Murph's cut I've never tried before but it seems it would work much like what we call an "arrow" cut that's used to get smaller limbs to go straight down except it works with bigger limbs you can't get your saw through fast enough to arrow them. Looks like a good cut as long as you have a heavy lean in the right direction. I might lightly tap in a wedge on each side for some added stability though.


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## windthrown (Nov 25, 2008)

Yah, now I am confused. I would bore the back cut and leave a fatter hinge width on the side away from the lean of the tree.


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## Blakesmaster (Nov 25, 2008)

I think what he was trying to prevent was the top from laying over. He wanted it to go straight down. With a hinge the top would have had time to fall into the other trees and when the butt came off it would have swung back and got him.


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## windthrown (Nov 25, 2008)

Well, I would expect any falling tree to pop the hinge and rock back over the stump. If there is any rotation or roll during the fall it is going to be erratic. I guess I was confused about the angle of the tree lean here. The low-side and high side in the diagram also throws me off. If he is trying to fall it directly with the lean, that makes it a lot simpler. I was thinking he was trying to fall it against the lean to some degree (to keep it from laying over one way or the other). I have used angled hinges and bore cuts to protect an area that I do not want a tree to fall in. Not perfect, but they tend to be good ways to get a tree into a specific area (I got the idea off of AS some years ago). 

I would think that a bore cut strap would stop the fall the same as the 'arrow cut' though. Put in wedges on either side of the bored back cut and it would help prevent it from falling off-angle. I guess the arrow is just a fat strap.


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## Metals406 (Nov 25, 2008)

I'd still like to know if this is the cut being described... Or if I'm not sippin' what he's pourin'?


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## Blakesmaster (Nov 25, 2008)

Yeah, metals. That's what he's describing. As far as I can gather at least. That cut ( with a wedge in each side to help prevent unexpected twisting ) seems like it should pop the leaner right off the spar and straight down as opposed to having it try and lay out and coming back at you the way a hinge could do in that situation.


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## Blakesmaster (Nov 25, 2008)

windthrown said:


> Well, I would expect any falling tree to pop the hinge and rock back over the stump. If there is any rotation or roll during the fall it is going to be erratic. I guess I was confused about the angle of the tree lean here. The low-side and high side in the diagram also throws me off. If he is trying to fall it directly with the lean, that makes it a lot simpler. I was thinking he was trying to fall it against the lean to some degree (to keep it from laying over one way or the other). I have used angled hinges and bore cuts to protect an area that I do not want a tree to fall in. Not perfect, but they tend to be good ways to get a tree into a specific area (I got the idea off of AS some years ago).
> 
> I would think that a bore cut strap would stop the fall the same as the 'arrow cut' though. Put in wedges on either side of the bored back cut and it would help prevent it from falling off-angle. I guess the arrow is just a fat strap.



An "arrow" cut ( at least the one I am talking about ) is used in the tree when your saw is quick enough and the wood small enough to blast through the cut before the top has time to move one way or another. You cut straight through the wood at a 45 degree downward angle as fast as you can so that it makes a spike or "arrow" when it comes off.


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## Metals406 (Nov 25, 2008)

Blakesmaster said:


> Yeah, metals. That's what he's describing. As far as I can gather at least. That cut ( with a wedge in each side to help prevent unexpected twisting ) seems like it should pop the leaner right off the spar and straight down as opposed to having it try and lay out and coming back at you the way a hinge could do in that situation.



It's definitely an interesting technique.


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## Blakesmaster (Nov 25, 2008)

Metals406 said:


> It's definitely an interesting technique.



No doubt. I'd want a bit of confirmation from more skilled climbers than myself before I'd try it. Or at least to know for sure that I interpreted Murph correctly. Seems like it would work in the right situation though.


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## Husky137 (Nov 25, 2008)

Gerry Beranek isn't enough of a professional endorsement?


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## oldirty (Nov 25, 2008)

Husky137 said:


> Gerry Beranek isn't enough of a professional endorsement?



the MAN.



i am thinking if its a heavy head its going brush first anyway right? we know he had no facecut put in (out of fear of pinch maybe?) 

by taking the sides out he could cut the holding wood in a controlled backcut allowing the top to get set free without the barber showing up. keep in mind it locust. good strong wood.

i could be dead wrong but i dont think he was "fast cutting" it. the cut you are talking about blakes.

also i wouldnt put those wedgies in either i dont think. you cant cut the strap if the wedges are in the way. 

murph where are you?

i gotta go get my book!


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## randyg (Nov 25, 2008)

*Apples and Oranges*

Murph was cutting a limb or a top up in the tree. You are confusing his cut with felling cuts. I'm sure Murph would never use the cut he described when felling an entire tree. Where are ya Murph???


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## BCMA (Nov 25, 2008)

randyg said:


> Is this cut for side lean trees or heavy leaners intending to fall in the same direction as the lean?
> 
> The "low side / high side" notation on either side of the hinge is throwin me off.



I do not like the concept of the holding wood unless it is in conjunction with a face cut. If you were to make a kerf cut as they illustrate, and then make your back cut, if you over-cut the kerf- and as the log breaks off the stump, the chainsaw may get hung up in the log and ripped out of your hands.

If you accidentally cut off one side of the holding would on a heavy leaner, the tree could twist and pinch the saw.

It also appears that this type of cut would be better suited if all the cuts were on the same plane or kerf. No offset cuts as in a standard face and back-cut, where the back-cut is higher than the bottom of the face.


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## toddstreeservic (Nov 25, 2008)

Blakesmaster said:


> An "arrow" cut ( at least the one I am talking about ) is used in the tree when your saw is quick enough and the wood small enough to blast through the cut before the top has time to move one way or another. You cut straight through the wood at a 45 degree downward angle as fast as you can so that it makes a spike or "arrow" when it comes off.



That cut is also known as a salami cut I believe.


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## oldirty (Nov 25, 2008)

i thought salami cut was for a big piece of wood that you needed to have slide off the cut? for bucking off big wood on a leaner.


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## toddstreeservic (Nov 25, 2008)

yep olddirty you are right. the cut i was thinking of is refered to as a slice cut. I'm always thinking about food though.


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## Blakesmaster (Nov 25, 2008)

oldirty said:


> the MAN.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I didn't think he was fast cutting it either, OD. I was just saying that the "arrow" or slice cut is the cut I use on smaller pieces of wood that would have the same effect as Murph's cut on this larger piece ( getting it to go straight down was what I interpreted that he wanted to do ). I kinda thought the wedges would help hold the piece upright ( I'd obviously put them as far away from where I'd backcut as I could ) and then maybe bore in a bit for my back cut with the tip. This is all speculative as I've never tried it and was just going on what I "thought" Murph was getting at. It still seems sketchy to me which is why I wanted to hear others success/oh sh#t stories before I attempted it myself. How you doin' by the way, boss?


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## oldirty (Nov 25, 2008)

live'n it man, bout it.


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## murphy4trees (Nov 25, 2008)

The first post clearly states in the first sentence this is cut is used for head leaners. Cut was probably 10-12" locust with a 14" bar, 192 stihl with the thin bar and chain.. 

In reviewing Beranek's book, he makes it clear the coos bay is for front leaners ONLY! There was little or no chance that the piece would twist as I was cutting directly in line with the lean, and there was a pull rope in it for added safety. 

I like the idea of using the cut as per the fisrt two diagrams when needed, that is to prevent twisting or pinching the bar with side movement.. However when you are taking the top out of a 95' tree, that cut would be quite ackward to set up properly without a bunch of repositioning... It was not needed in this case, but a good thing to keep in the bag of tricks for just the right time...

The cut was quick and easy and that top (20-25') popped and dropped like a stone... Like the floor fell out from underneath it. Very cool to watch it go like that.

I have never used this cut to fall a tree, though I might try it now... and I know it is a great cut to use for cutting logs to length for the mill.


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## pdqdl (Nov 26, 2008)

This sure sounds you are making this tougher than necessary. Same results, less work, greater security on a head leaner: use a modified "pop cut":

1. Make a deep single cut on the side of the fall, *stopping just before the gap closes*. If "sliding off the stump" is desired, give this cut up to a 45% upward slant. If you wish to give the top a little more lean away from you (so as to avoid being clobbered by the vertically falling top), give this cut a narrow wedge to control how far it leans before it pops.

2. Finish with a back cut barely above the face cut at a matching angle to the face cut. Advance the saw carefully until the gap closes slowly, get ready for the drop, then cut like mad until it pops loose. This will eliminate any notches on the butt from catching the stump and hanging on until the top swings over.

This method allows a skilled cutter to exactly control how far the leaner pitches before it pops, it controls any tendency to swing laterally (not afforded in the above method), and it causes the butt to slide clean off the stump, away from the operator and the tree.

It allows some directional control, in case you don't happen to be going exactly the same direction as the lean.

It also controls any tendency a leaner might have for barber chair.

Naturally, there are plenty of ways to screw it up, but if you are 90' in the air with a chainsaw, you had better know what you are doing anyway.

The greatest risk is to pinch the saw by cutting too deep on the initial cut. If that happens, just finish the back cut with a second saw, and catch it when it pops loose.

The greatest risk to the climber is to finish the back cut and have the top section hop off the trunk into his lap. *VERY BAD* That is prevented by having a sufficiently steep face cut. It is also a good idea to work from the side of the cut, just in case.

Two cuts (3 with narrow wedge), you're out of there.


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## TheTreeSpyder (Nov 26, 2008)

The cut strategy forsakes side to side control, so is for forward leans only. The strip leaves minimal wood to cut, so saw canrace thru quickly for quicker relief, to help prevent barber chair from too slow a relief. The holding strip should be inline with the lean for max power, but with no side to side control, that lean should be forward.

In tree i've used other 'remaining wood' strategies, to allow saw to cut threw quicker, and get stronger throw forward (like throwing a top etc.).


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## murphy4trees (Nov 26, 2008)

pdq .. this thread is trying my patience... 

your statement in particular "This sure sounds you are making this tougher than necessary. Same results, less work, greater security on a head leaner: use a modified "pop cut":

Any suggestiion that a modified pop cut is simpler, easier, or stands less of a chance to barber chair than the coos bay is complete ignorance... 

IGNORANCE

The only benefit of setting a hinge with an undercut is to prevent twisting... When you are in a tree with a wide open DZ you cut the coos bay perfectly in line with the lean of the top... It doesn't get any simpler or easier than that!

I try to share this little gem with the people here and have to explain and re-explain and re-explain some more... It has gotten old... 

And I do think it is good to make a distinction between hinge wood and holding wood, which have come to be used interchangably... In the cace of the coos bay the holding wood is not hinging...


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## tree MDS (Nov 26, 2008)

*RE: "this thread is trying my patience"*

Hey Murph: thats what you get for posting about a cut called the "cooze bay" (or whatever), lol.

If I'm in a tree and not confident that a top will not barber chair due to extreme lean/weight I will get a bigger saw or go higher to take a smaller cut - all the while using variations of the classic "BOX"!

I know what pdq is talking about too I think, that cut is pretty experimental though, so definitely gotta be careful with that one.


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## LTREES (Nov 27, 2008)

Hey murphy, I'm going to try the COOS BAY cut. I have usually at least put in a face cut, or made a single cut that fans around the front leaving holding wood on the far side to cut last and rip through fast(on smaller stuff). There are only 2 concerns I have. 1 will the bar pinch if the weight of the limb is off centered. 2 will there be a tear from the holding wood ( causing to loose control of the limb ) Any way, I will try it and thank you for the technique. I too wonder if this could be a felling technique? :monkey: 

LT...


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## John Ellison (Nov 27, 2008)

I can't say that I have used it a lot, but I have fell a couple of big spruce using a similar cut to what Murf is talking about. 
There was a rock bluff in the unit that was steep enough that it was impossible to keep anything in place( for bucking). It all ended up in a big pile at the bottom, 400'+ below. The bullbuck told my partner and I to just dump it all straight down. O Boy!!! A tree would leave the stump and you had time to scratch yourself out of the way, shut your saw off and listen a bit before the crash silence crash, etc. Surprisingly they saved out a lot better that you would think with most breaking clean at around the top 1/4.

The reason I used this method was to save time and to reduce the pucker factor. They were 4 to 5' spruce that were out on tiny rock points. You could just barely get yourself to the tree and had only a small space on the backside to stand. To work on the sides or the front (downhill side) would have taken several springboards and would have put you on the board over a shear dropoff of a lot more than I wanted.

I was not sure how to handle it so after a bunkhouse B.S. session this sounded the best to me. These trees both had a gentle forward lean, straight down the mtn. I made the single cut on each side, like Murf described, but did not cut all the way out the front. The tree was supported on a T of uncut wood, Probably 6 or 8" in front and 2 or 3 in the middle. When I cut the strip the trees would tip to around 45 deg. and then the butt would rip off the front of the stump. 

It worked perfect for me in that situation but I dont think I would use it otherwise other wise for falling. With no undercut and no real hinge there is just a general directional control. I think it does kill any barberchair possibility, but I would rather use other methods for heavy leaners.


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## LTREES (Nov 27, 2008)

John Ellison said:


> I can't say that I have used it a lot, but I have fell a couple of big spruce using a similar cut to what Murf is talking about.
> There was a rock bluff in the unit that was steep enough that it was impossible to keep anything in place( for bucking). It all ended up in a big pile at the bottom, 400'+ below. The bullbuck told my partner and I to just dump it all straight down. O Boy!!! A tree would leave the stump and you had time to scratch yourself out of the way, shut your saw off and listen a bit before the crash silence crash, etc. Surprisingly they saved out a lot better that you would think with most breaking clean at around the top 1/4.
> 
> The reason I used this method was to save time and to reduce the pucker factor. They were 4 to 5' spruce that were out on tiny rock points. You could just barely get yourself to the tree and had only a small space on the backside to stand. To work on the sides or the front (downhill side) would have taken several springboards and would have put you on the board over a shear dropoff of a lot more than I wanted.
> ...



A video would have been nice, did you ever think of us here at A.S.


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## John Ellison (Nov 27, 2008)

That was pre AS. In the 80s


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## rmihalek (Nov 27, 2008)

With the Coos cut, I think I'd at least want to cut into the front of the leaner a little bit, maybe a half inch or so, just in case the holding wood decides to strip down the stem and grab my lanyard.


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## randyg (Nov 27, 2008)

rmihalek said:


> With the Coos cut, I think I'd at least want to cut into the front of the leaner a little bit, maybe a half inch or so, just in case the holding wood decides to strip down the stem and grab my lanyard.



I'm with you on the undercut first. I'm thinkin 3 or 4 inches below and then you can make that undercut deeper like 1/4 the dia. rather than just a half inch. Should not affect Coos cut, just a safety against peel. Speed is one thing, but how does the saying go? A stitch in time saves nine, or is it the ounce of prevention worth a pound of cure? Yup, thats it!!!!


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## GASoline71 (Nov 28, 2008)

There are some variations to the Coos Bay cut... one with a face and one without...

FFS relax... 

Gary


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## pdqdl (Nov 28, 2008)

murphy4trees said:


> pdq .. this thread is trying my patience...
> 
> your statement in particular "This sure sounds you are making this tougher than necessary. Same results, less work, greater security on a head leaner: use a modified "pop cut":
> 
> ...




I'm not trying to wear out your patience, as I appreciate anyone's suggestion of other techniques. That's what this forum is all about. Your response to me suggests that you believe you are doing us all a favor, and that you should not be expected to listen to anyone else's opinion. I'm sorry; I don't see it that way.

Regarding ignorance on my part for my suggestion: take a vote, and see how many experienced cutters that have ever used that method think the suggestion is ignorant. 

I would like to remind you that you stated in your original post that you DID NOT have an empty drop zone: "but there were a couple other trees nearby and it would have fallen into some of their upper limbs causing minor damage most likely. " so you did not have "a tree with a wide open DZ " as you stated above.

You stated "The only benefit of setting a hinge with an undercut is to prevent twisting... " No. I can control how far the top leans before it breaks loose. That is a definite benefit. When the gap closes completely, the tree goes nowhere until all holding wood is broken loose. You can't say that about the Coos Bay cut, it will hold all the way down the cut until it finally breaks all the remaining wood at some unpredictable point.

Read my post more carefully, I said NOTHING about using a hinge in the cut. A NARROW opening on the face, only enough to let the tree lean out enough to not fall on you as it goes down, or wider if you preferred. Your goal was to send the top down quickly without toppling over, right? My suggestion will give you a butt first drop, at the angle you set with the width of your face cut. 

I will defy anyone on this site to produce a barber chair in the tree of their preference using the method I described. Barber chair occurs when there is a strong lateral force (heavy lean, wind, tow line, etc) applying a tension force away from the stump. The barber chair occurs when the tension force exceeds the compression force by enough difference to split the trunk while it remains attached to the stump by the wood under compression. Typically, this only occurs when the compression wood is closest to the side under compression. The probabilty of barber chair increases when the distance between "tension" and "compression" is the greatest (as in shallow face cuts) and it is reduced as the face cut comes closer to the center of the tree. Barber chair is almost impossible to create when the face cut exceeds 50% of the trunk diameter; easily and safely done with a head leaner.

Barber chair _cannot_ be done when the compression force is entirely placed on wood that has already been cut loose from the tree. [face cut with a closed gap, 50% or more trunk diameter cut]. When the tension force exceeds the strength of the holding wood, it pops loose, and goes in the direction of the strong lateral force. EVERY TIME.

Coos Bay does not prevent barber chair, it just makes it less likely. It does not increase control of the placement, direction, nor timing of the fall, it only minimizes damage to the trunk that was cut off. There is still wood under tension, and attached wood under compression, which breaks as the tree falls away from the stump. It's original purpose was to maximize timber production. It's use in the top of a tree is unnecessary, since there are several other methods that accomplish the same end, while still maintaining some lateral control.

If you like the coos bay, go ahead and do it that way. Send me a video, and I will be doubly pleased if I learn something new. My suggestion that seemed to inflame you was not intended as a criticism, only as another way to approach the same problem. It was offered in the same spirit as your original post, and I regret that you did not see it that way.


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## toddstreeservic (Nov 29, 2008)

a picture is worth 1000 words 
a (good)video is worth a million


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