# 1"st mill purchase



## Axe Man (Dec 5, 2012)

I usually hang out in the firewood forum but have been wanting a portable mill for a while now. Don't know anything about them but I don't mind learning on the job.
Will be milling 1X10 or 12 pine for board and batten siding and 2X6 cedar for a new deck. Any suggestions for an entry level mill for a novice.Thanks in advance,,,


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## ridecaptain (Dec 5, 2012)

I purchased a woodmizer LT 10 almost 2 years ago and have been very pleased with its value and performance,have sawn about 4000 bf of longleaf pine most is still stickered and stacked but did build one shed 12 x 16 with 1-1/2" floorboards 3/4" siding with 1" battons the what i would have spent buying the lumber to build this shed is equal to what i paid for the mill.there are cheaper mills on the market but i beleive the LT 10 is the most bang for the buck.


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## Mac88 (Dec 5, 2012)

I agree with ridecaptain. We have an older LT30 here. The advantage I see with the WoodMizer is you can upgrade as your budget allows. Google "woodmizer". They have a fairly informative site.


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## hamish (Dec 5, 2012)

There are many great mills out there, the biggest limitation is ones deams, aspirations, and budget.

As you are new to milling, start small, if all goes well and you get bitten by the sawdust bug, you will look at ways ofubgrading your equipment.

As you already cut firewood, you have a chainsaw, the next practical step its a CSM (chain saw mill), try it you'll have a blast.

After the doctors confirm it and tell your wife that you have a serious case of the sawdust bug, you'll start looking at BSM's (band saw mills).

I have had my Norwood ML26 for almost 2 years now, have milled close to 30,000BF, built a great huntcamp for the fruits of my labour, a cedar deck at the house, and enough lumber piled and drying to build a new driveshed/toy storage warehouse!

Had been using a csm for numerous years, wasnt in the need for a bsm of so I thought. When I decided to quit smoking I got an attack of the sawdust bug. Not even two years later the mill is paid for(with money that would have gone up in smoke),and its like being a kid again.


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## Sawyer Rob (Dec 5, 2012)

Here's another vote for the Norwood ML26, it's a step UP from the other starter mills. You really need to at least look one over and try it out, before you buy anything.

SR


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## Dave Boyt (Dec 6, 2012)

Axe Man, welcome to the sawmilling forum. What size logs will you be dealing with? The Norwood ML26 (which, by the way also gets my vote) can handle up to 26" diameter log, and you can add as many track extensions as you need, so length won't be an issue. Very simple mill, assembled from a kit (all the parts delivered on one pallet). This keeps shipping and assembly cost down. You'll also know what every nut and bolt does when you start milling. If anyone asks you where its made, you can tell 'em it was made in your back yard. Seriously, other than the engine, all parts are Canadian & U.S. The Norwood  Pro MX34 (which is what I operate) is a little bigger and can handle up to 34" diameter logs. Both mills have optional towing kits and track extensions. The MX34 has optional hydraulics you can add at any time. Whatever mill you get, go for the biggest engine option.

http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff490/dboyt54/Sawmill/Milling/_WhiteOak_02m.jpg

When you look at mills, pay attention to the clamping system and operation of the carriage height (controls board thickness). Controls should be easy to reach, and the engine throttle back to idle and the blade should STOP when you take your hands off the throttle. Should have a good solid feel to it. Get yourself some good cant hooks or peavies (or one of each) and post some pictures of sawdust blowing out the chute!

I've nailed up board and bat siding and porch decking the same day I sawed them with no problem, but if you're going to store the lumber more than a week or two, get the boards off the ground and put stickers (1" by 1" wood spacers) between the rows so air can circulate between the boards. Otherwise, they'll degrade pretty quickly.


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## Axe Man (Dec 9, 2012)

Thanks for all the pointers gentlemen.....I used to live about a half hour drive from the Norwood head offices but never went in....Right now the entry level mill I'm looking at is the Hudson.......$2400 price tag plus extra for extended tracks.....as stated earlier it is an entry level mill I'm looking for to get my feet wet......any buyers beware over this unit?


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## Mac88 (Dec 9, 2012)

Axe Man said:


> Thanks for all the pointers gentlemen.....I used to live about a half hour drive from the Norwood head offices but never went in....Right now the entry level mill I'm looking at is the Hudson.......$2400 price tag plus extra for extended tracks.....as stated earlier it is an entry level mill I'm looking for to get my feet wet......any buyers beware over this unit?




Keep your eye out for used mills. They show up from time to time, "sometimes" with reasonable prices.


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## Sawyer Rob (Dec 9, 2012)

Axe Man said:


> Thanks for all the pointers gentlemen.....I used to live about a half hour drive from the Norwood head offices but never went in....Right now the entry level mill I'm looking at is the Hudson.......$2400 price tag plus extra for extended tracks.....as stated earlier it is an entry level mill I'm looking for to get my feet wet......any buyers beware over this unit?



Of all the folks i talk to that have BSM's, BY FAR the most complaints i hear are about Hudson BSM's... Personally, i wouldn't have one no matter how much cheaper it was.

SR


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## Dave Boyt (Dec 10, 2012)

It's probably a matter of "you get what you pay for". Try to find owners of the types of mill in your area-- or even someone you can call. Check with manufacturers for mills in your area. Youtube videos don't show everything, but they give a general idea of how the machine works. Keep in mind size and weight limitations of the machine, compared to the kind of cutting you anticipate doing. As they say, get the best tools you can afford, and take care of them. More power, by the way, is always better. If you're getting a mill just to see if you like sawing, trust me, you will! Might as well bite the bullet and get a mill that will be with you a long time! Rob & I are advocates of the Norwood portable sawmills, because they've worked so well for us, and we've had good customer service.


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## Dobbs (Dec 10, 2012)

Look at the EZ boardwalk mills the EZ Jr. Saws 30", rolling down the road it is $4400 very nice very well build mill.

Alot of bang for your bucks.


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## gemniii (Dec 12, 2012)

Axe Man said:


> I usually hang out in the firewood forum but have been wanting a portable mill for a while now. Don't know anything about them but I don't mind learning on the job.
> Will be milling 1X10 or 12 pine for board and batten siding and 2X6 cedar for a new deck. Any suggestions for an entry level mill for a novice.Thanks in advance,,,


We've written lot's about mills for beginners here. Do a thorough google search on "woodmizer site:arboristsite.com" and then substitute in other mfg. for woodmizer.

You write portable - do you plan on carrying it? Putting it in the back of a truck? The FEL of a tractor? Trailer? Permanent mount on it's own trailer?

You wrote $2,400 for a Hud-son - have you done a hands on?

Here's my comments on entry level sawmills- 
Harbor Freight - Goes on sale occasionally (for even down to about $1,600 if you can get the 20% off coupon), needs mods, heavier duty rails
http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/209997.htm

Absolute bottom of the line for an occasional sawyer who can fix things the Harbor Freight way.

Hud-son - I almost bought one, but the rails are really light compared to Woodmizer
Again for the occasional saywer of light wood. This was portable enough for 1 man 1 small tractor to easily transport.

Norwood - lots of loyal followers but basically it had two things against it in my mind - They raised the prices to $4K and it was assemble lots of pieces yourself. I'm in a remote location and it's about an hour to the hardware stores, and I don't have my full complement of tools yet.

Woodmizer - Well respected and they had a sale on the LT10 for $3K. And it's just small enough for me to set it up with myself and an engine hoist. The track is heavier than the Hud-Son and I've bounced around 22" diameter logs on it. I can move the pieces around with my tractor so it meets my definition of portable without a trailer.

E-Z boardwalk was also a strong contender.

IF you can wait and go up to about $5K there are frequently larger used mills for sale.


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## Sawyer Rob (Dec 12, 2012)

One thing to keep in mind, the Norwood ML26 is much closer to a Mizer LT15 than an LT10. It's MUCH more mill than Mizers 10...

Also, it takes 3 or 4 wrenches to put the whole thing together, you don't need a toolbox full of tools. The advantage is, you will know exactly how it works and how to keep the mill dialed in...

SR


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## Dave Boyt (Dec 13, 2012)

I know that right now pricing is important, but very seldom have I thought "I should have bought the smaller, cheaper tool". Nothing to be afraid of, as far as putting the Norwood together. Here's a list of the tools I used for the MX34:

1/2” drive socket wrench with: 2” extension, 1/2” deep socket, 9/16”, 3/4”, 15/16" sockets
3/8" drive socket wrench with: 10mm, 12mm sockets
1/2", 9/16", 3/4" and 15/16" combination wrenches
1" Crescent wrench
Set SAE allen wrenhes
Slot screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Pliers
Knife
Carpenter's square
Oil
Grease gun & grease
(3) 3” or larger C-clamps are helpful in holding things while bolting them together.

Took about two days. Just follow the instructions, and you'll do it in half the time! Some of the older LumberMates have been hard at it for over ten years, and I can't see anything but improvements in the LumberLite.


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## JimFX (Dec 25, 2012)

*Basic Mill Question*

I am new to this forum and it would seem to be a great place to get real world feedback, so I am jumping right in!

I am looking for feedback on two differences I notice between the Norwood 26 and the WoodMiser 15.
One: Norwood seems to be pushed by hand where the WoodMiser is a crank feed. Obviously a power feed would be nicer however if we are talking about a basic mill, what are the pros and cons between these two?

Second: The Norwood exits the sawdust on the opposite side of the user, the Woodmiser on the same side.
The opposite side would seem to be less blowback on the operator. Does this play out in actual operation?

After this it seems to be what options do you need because both seem to be good mills.
Or am I missing something?
Thanks!


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## Dave Boyt (Dec 25, 2012)

JimFX, you made two very good observations. My first band saw mill had a crank feed-- I used it for a month or so, but removed it. It just wasn't that helpful, and when it came to return the carriage, I had to crank it back. The Norwood is about as easy to push as a shopping cart (only without the wobbly wheel), and when it is time to return the carriage, I just give it a good shove and it coasts on back while I pull off the board or slab. The hand push is consistent, and gives a good feel for how the blade is cutting. If you can't push the carriage with one hand, it is time to put on a fresh blade.

I can't answer as to whether milling a log while walking through a pile of sawdust would be a detriment, as I have never done it.

As I noted above, assembling the mill was no big deal, and it saved on shipping. Check on shipping cost and availability. I've heard some mills are backlogged several months. Another thought, go with the largest engine option, if you can. When you start cutting the bigger logs, it makes a real difference. Keep at least a dozen blades on hand so that you always have a sharp one to put on when you cut into a clamp.

If possible, see if you can try your hand at milling with the mills to see how it works for you. Let us know what you decide!


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## Sawyer Rob (Dec 25, 2012)

This would be a tough decision! I've milled on both and i really dislike that crank on the 15 and the 15 is the pits to push through a log, while the 26 is easy to push through a log! I also really dislike having walking through the sawdust on the 15! BUT, i think the 15 is the stiffer mill and will handle the biggest logs easier.

I'd buy a nice used LM2000 before i'd buy either of your choises though, and save some money... And, i'd MUCH rather have the Lumbermate 34 than either of your choises...

Run them both and buy the one YOU like best!

SR


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