# Blake's hitch lock down



## mikecross23 (Jan 7, 2003)

My Blake's hitch snugs up too tight and causes me to waste my presious energy advancing it. My slack tending pulley helps but still doesn't advance the knot as easily as I would like. Any eye-dears?


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## treeman82 (Jan 7, 2003)

How long do you sit on it for? Usually if you sit on your hitch too long it will lock down, I find that with the Blake's you can simply roll the bridge a little bit and that helps loosen it up. Have you tried any of the new high performance hitches yet?


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## TheTreeSpyder (Jan 7, 2003)

id-ears?

Once i had a 16 strand with a real bad bunching cover. i cut gobs off the cover, and still had situations remniscient of what you present. It got so i only ran the line one way till i finally gave up. And ascending was always a problem, for this reason.

Just a thought, what T82 presents is much more common.


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## mikecross23 (Jan 7, 2003)

"Have you tried any of the new high performance hitches yet?"

No, I haven't tried any yet. Any recomendations? French Prusik; schwabisch; distal hitch? I'm all ears!


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## TREETX (Jan 7, 2003)

distel  

blake's on my long flip line

You are young, make sure you can footlock. Will save a lot of time on the hitch thrusting. It seems masochistic at first, but practice.

.02


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## treeclimber165 (Jan 7, 2003)

Since you are in Tallahassee, maybe you can hook up with Monkeypuzzle (a long term ArboristSite member). Perhaps he can show you the Distal hitch and/or some other tricks. 
If you research back in this forum for the last 6 months you should find some of the threads I started when going through the trials and tribulations of switching over to an advanced hitch. Hopefully there is lots of good info there for others going through the same thing. My stubbornness and resistence to change cost me a lot over the many years that I refused to accept any of the 'yuppie climber' methods. But my speed has increased by at least 50% in the last 6 months. I now consider myself one of the best climbers in central Florida and I'm told so by everyone I climb for.


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## mikecross23 (Jan 7, 2003)

TC165, I've spoken w/ monkeypuzzle a few times in the last week but our schedules conflict. I'd like to meet him since we are both from Tally and he is well experienced. I have read through your threads and seen your advancement and have taken that into account. I guess I'm wrong, but I figured I'd start w/ the basics before moving onto the advanced hitches. Thought I heard that mentioned somewhere. Would you recommend ordering from the Sherrill Catalog the eye & eye Prusik Cord (pg. 18) for trying the distal or just getting my own cord and tying my own suitable lengths? Anyway, thanks for the help!


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## TheTreeSpyder (Jan 7, 2003)

TreeTx, i favour a 1 down, 2 up distel for a 1 way lanyard/flipline (only use one end like in gibbs adj. lanyard) i find a fair amount of 1 hand adjustability in that system, shrinking the leg, and 1 hand expanding the lanyard's loop while loaded (a trick a gibbs doesn't do so well).

Tom got me started on distel for adj. lanyard, before i even used it for a climbing hitch (that i now exclusively use), also years later pointed out it adjusted easily under load unlike the $60(?)gibbs. Dropping the 'choking ring' count is my contrivation, i generally go with 4+choking rings on lifeline hitches (1 on temporary stay, 2-3 choking grabs on rigs, elevating to 4+ on lifeline); but have bent that rule of thumb for this, with no apparent complications. i was trying for 1 hand adjustability, least amount of drag with a knot tender etc., but found in this configuration, that i didn't need a knot tender. The single ring of the lacing seems to do a fair job of pushing the other 2 rings up towards the snap to adjust. When it comes time to grab, the 'finger puzzle' sock effect that i beleive MM refered to about VT class of hitches is observable to me in the way the hitch stretches out and grabs the line. I have made 3 of these for people, everyone seems to love'em, can't find anything wrong; save a lil'discomfort over dropping that 4th choking ring that i see in virtually all of our climbing hitches as a common denominator, that i have used to help define things.


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## treeclimber165 (Jan 7, 2003)

> _Originally posted by mikecross23 _
> * Would you recommend ordering from the Sherrill Catalog the eye & eye Prusik Cord (pg. 18) for trying the distal or just getting my own cord and tying my own suitable lengths? Anyway, thanks for the help! *


I bought one of those Tenex things and did not like it at all. The only thing it did was show me how much better a Distal was over a Blakes or Tautline hitch. I burned through it in 3-4 days I think. 

I'd recommend spending the extra $6 and getting an Ultra Tech eye-spliced cord (22176). The benifit of having an eye-spliced cord while learning how to use the advanced hitches is important, IMHO. There will be enough for you to think about without worrying over your double fisherman's knots on your tres cord, or the length of your tres cord. After a few days/weeks with the eye-spliced cord, you will probably feel better about buying bulk cordage and cutting/tying your own. At that point I'd be happy to share a few sources of rope for tres cords.


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## mikecross23 (Jan 7, 2003)

Sounds like a plan TC165, I'll get back to you in a few weeks after I've become a "yuppie climber". . . JK after I get the cord and can put it to use a bit. I'm sure it's probably cheaper to tie your own too so I'll sure be looking for some cord resources and what kind you recommend.


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## TREETX (Jan 7, 2003)

I use 72 inches of 8mm for my distel. 26 of those inches are eaten up tying the fisherman's knots.

I'll have to give the 2 up, 1 down lanyard a try.

Thanks and .02

Nate


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## treeclimber165 (Jan 7, 2003)

Make sure you have a tender pulley and proper 'biners. I like the Petzl Am'D and Williams 'biners. The advanced hitches are easiest to use with a tender pulley mounted on the 'biner so you can advance by pulling the tail of your lifeline.

This is the hitch I'm using (I stole this picture somewhere online). It's very similar to the tautline hitch, easy to tie and very predictable in how it handles. It's an excellent starting point for trying out advanced hitches IMHO. 

(I had to print out a picture to carry with me so I could tie it the first couple days :blush: )


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## TREETX (Jan 7, 2003)

just another bit of trivia, it is DISTEL, not distal.

Here is Uli's web page.http://www.baumkletterteam.com/ueberuns.php?var=4

All these pics remind me of how comfy I get when I should still be trying new variations.

Brian - I was the same way with the Vt the first few times


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Jan 7, 2003)

I think it's interesting that one would use a different hitch for climbing or lanyard. 
Don't you want the same qualities in both hitches? 
I personally give new hitches a run on the lanyard first. That way if I were to mess up, I only go to the end of the lanyard. Then I run them on the climbing line for a few days. If it's supperior to the last I keep it on until the next one comes along.
I have two hitches now that perform very well, actually about equal.
I do argee the distel is a good place to start, it is almost the same knot as the tautline hitch, just both ends secured, so it may be familiar to oldtimers. Don't get too comfortable though, there are better hitches out there.


Here's a good site


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## TheTreeSpyder (Jan 7, 2003)

Do all you guys use 4 top rings on distel for climbing? i always use 3, and 1 under for a total of 4 grabbing the host line. i like my knot tender to come over from the static leg of my DdRT, so when it is engaged, and i pull down on the line it immediately pushes up on the knot, instead of taking up slack, then pushing friction hitch up.


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## NickfromWI (Jan 7, 2003)

*Distel for you, Distel for me...*

....I like the distel when I'm in the tree.... (sung to the tune of Adam Sandlers "Thanksgiving Song."

On both my lanyard and my climbing line, I use a 3-over-1 Distel. My lanyard is currently 3/8ths Tenex Single Braid 25" long. My climbing hitch is 26" long 3/8" diameter New England Sta-Set polyester double-braid with an eye spliced on each end. Both work well for me, though sometimes i notice that the top of my climbing hitch tries to kindof unwrap itself behind the knot, if that makes sense. I sometimes have to just take a 14th of a second to reset it...the climbing line tends to advance smoother if the hitch is not "unrolling." Does this make any sense at all?
When showing others the Schwabish and the Distel, I start with the classic prussik, then tie a Schwabish below it on the same climbing line, that way they can see that the common prussik is just a 2-over-2 Schwabish. Then from there, I show that the Distel takes the advancement one step further by the two eyes coming out different sides of the piece that crosses from top to bottom of the hitch. (A neat way to remember the two knots is that in the Schwabish the eyes come out the same side, and in the Distel, the eyes come our different sides. Schwabish Same, Distel Different. Got it? Good.)
I've found that if you tie both knots with a 3-over-1, the Schwabish tends to lock up more, but the Distel lets the climbing line slide through easier during line advancement. Does this coincide with your guys' experiences?
That's all about this from me.....for now...HA HA HA HA (sinister laugh)

love
nick


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## Kevin (Jan 7, 2003)

I use the 3up and 2down for my climbing hitch and flipline.
The climbing hitch is tenex and the flipline hitch is kernmantle prusik cord.
Works well for me!


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## FSburt (Jan 8, 2003)

Been using the Distel since Sept and it is like night and day compared to the Blakes and Taughtline hitch. I to use a 3 over 1 but I need to shorten up the end some to allow it to advance better.


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## TheTreeSpyder (Jan 8, 2003)

Nick i like how you try to link the lessons of diffrent knots inot groups/ families for folx to more easily learn and confidentally employ groups of knots. i do the same thing, only i start with a girth hitch/ sling choker as 'primary' 1 up,1 down prusik formation and expand it to a clove hitch family, of which the tautline, rolling hitch and distel are part of. i further point out that they all have a 'Z' bar and continue with the lacing all in the same direction of coiling, this makes this whole family 'walkers' save those who's tail is anchored as in a constrictor, Distel or 2 half hitches. Also the internal friction of the coils tends to track agianst the standing end, powering it, in a clove this is towards coming undone, in a prusik that action too walks the knot tighter, what a simple marvel! Clove, Rolling, Tautline being in this family of half hitches defines and imparts the family characteristics of walking out,thereby all but the self anchoring need a positive mechanical stop as part of the design of any like them (exerpt of the stopper knot after tautline on your 'frickin lifeline speach  ). The girth/prusik family i have always found don't walk, jsut tighten up more as the straight bar is pushed away from the tail of release/ fail (even when the prusik is in the uncommon 1 legged stance/use), while the 'Z' bar clove family walks towards the tail of release/fail because loading pushes the 'Z' bar towards the end of the line.

I find grouping the knots in families is easier to learn/remember, less material allowing more volume and potency of comprehensive view and understanding, and each on the job example of what you've learned reinforces lessons of 4 knots and not just the singular knot that you are working with.


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## Greg (Jan 8, 2003)

Distal 3/1 all the way baby!!!!! for my lanyard and climbing line.
Greg


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## NickfromWI (Jan 8, 2003)

*Knot groupings...*

If you're starting with someone who isn't very knot-savy, i ALWAYS start with the square knot, show that a slight variation of this is how they (should) tie their shoes. Then I take two slings, girth hitch them together, show how the girth is the SAME as the square knot, then proceed with the rest.
It's just a small tip that can bring novice knotters right up to par with the rest of us!!!

love
nick


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## budroe69moni (Jan 8, 2003)

i started out climbing w/ the 3/1 distal 
and see no reason for trying anything 
else. the blake's and tautline are not 
in my climbing vocabulary 
get out and get climbing!!!!
budroe


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## TREETX (Jan 8, 2003)

Maas (not mASS) - what are your mystery hitches??


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Jan 9, 2003)

You can't even spell my name correctly and you want me to teach you a hitch? 

One hitch I do like and that is worth trying, is one I saw Chisolm using back when he was climbing champ, three wraps and three twists, the three twists off the host line. My other favorite, one I keep going back to is the 3 wrap, 3 cross vt. Both tied with un-spliced 5/16" Ultra Tech.

I found a couple new hitches I will be trying out, so who knows, maybe next week these will be different. Altough I gotta say, I'm pretty happy now, I don't see much room for improvment.


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## TheTreeSpyder (Jan 9, 2003)

Yo Mike,

One of my biggest problems with the family of hitches that you offer, is the amount of slack that must be pulled down to actuate the knot tending effects for ascending/ returning. Do you just accept that? Or have specific strategie(s) for addressing that?


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## Tom Otto (Jan 9, 2003)

Have any of you folks looked at this site ?
www.community-2.webtv.net/@HH!29!FF!95A2266FBB8B/acutabovetree/RopesSplicingKnots/ It shows many variations of the advanced hitches. Check it out. Lots of good links too. Cheers


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## ramanujan (Jan 9, 2003)

I have tried to use a distel or schwabisch but find that no variations of them ever seem offer the same ease in slack tending as a VT. 

Right now I'm using my own VT variant, four wraps, one crossover and then top tail half hitches onto the bottom tail. Makes it easier to tie and performs very well.


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## Stumper (Jan 10, 2003)

Hey Spydy, I know what you mean about the slack in the V.T.. I Love the ease with which it advances but don't like the slack take-up before advancement. I just made up a new tress cord out of 3/8 double braid secured with dbl fisherman's instead of splices. I made it so short that I could barely get it tied (this is on a lanyard so it won't come off until repacement). The shortened V.T. is much better but still has a little slop in the system.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jan 11, 2003)

I climb on a 3 wrap tres, wether mt, vt or xt I'm not sure. 

I'll take the slight slop in it over the unloading responce any day. 

My biggest problem when moving to it was the checking set when it was up against my body and leaning into it. Had it slip on me once and stopped my heart for a beat. had my lanyard in, but it was a suprise.


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## treeclimber165 (Jan 14, 2003)

*So, Mike-*

How ya making out with the new setup so far? What have you tried? We want details! Share your findings so others can learn too. :angel:


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## mikecross23 (Jan 14, 2003)

Since last weekend I've only had time to climb once and I practiced foot locking (briefly, cause I was feelin' crappy). That FL is for the birds! ! ! I did make some progress. I can see how it would be great to learn and know and I don't plan on giving up on it. My technique is a little sour  . I did place an order from Sherrill consisting of the BS, Pantin, and the Ultra Tech cord for trying out the distel. I've seen an overwhelming response to the BS and Pantin and I've been wanting them for a while anyhow. I figure I will climb on a split tail w/ distel hitch, my petzl handled ascender attached to my center D, and the Pantin to "cheat". I have been using the Petzl footpro stirup but I find that I push outward to much w/ it being attached to the upper ascender causing upper body fatigue and it just gets in the way too much when not in use! TC165, I like what you do by sending a running bowline up to your tip, climbing w/ your upper ascender, your friction hitch to center D, and your pantin. SRT IMNO (In My Newbie Opinion) is the way to ascend, it's fast and efficient. Then, when you reach the tip just lanyard in and untie your running bowline and retie to your center D and you've got your split tail climbing system, right?!?! Sounds like a weiner to me  . I'll report how I like that system and the BS in 4 or 5 days after I get the order and can go play. For now I've got cabin fever workin' 40 hrs behind this frickin' desk. Can't wait to climb


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## mikecross23 (Jan 15, 2003)

Got my ultra tech hitch cord, BS and Pantin in yesterday. Got here quick! I won't be able to try it out until this weekend but I did practice tying the distel and the french prusik. Both knots seem awsome and aren't too difficult to tie.


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## treeclimber165 (Jan 15, 2003)

That's great to hear, Mike. Good luck with your new techniques, I'm sure it will enable you to be a better climber and Arborist.


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## Ghivelder (Jan 15, 2003)

> _Originally posted by mikecross23 _
> *I figure I will climb on ... my petzl handled ascender attached to my center D...*



What do you use the handled ascender for?

Sergio


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## mikecross23 (Jan 15, 2003)

It's my upper ascender that has a handle to hold onto rather than holding the rope. It moves up the rope with hardly any resistance but locks down when weight is applied to it allowing you to pull yourself up. Click on the sherrill link at the top of the page and do a search for mechanical ascenders. I use the petzl right handed ascender (blue one) but have never tried any of the other ones.


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## treeclimber165 (Jan 15, 2003)

Mike,
I think Sergio was testing you.  I believe he is a climbing instructor over in Italy, but I'm not certain. I do know that he can probably climb circles around just about anyone on this site. 

I resisted buying a handled ascender for a while, but found it very handy for SRT ascents. Like you said, it is much easier to grab than the rope. I've only used two handled ascenders one time and find one handled ascender works just as well for me.

Always have a backup when using ascenders! Two is one and one is NONE! :angel:


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## Ghivelder (Jan 15, 2003)

I swear I wasn't testing anyone and like everyone else, I follow this forum to lurn new things and listen to new ideas...
--------------
I also have a petzl "ascension" and use it very occasionaly on SRT. Since you mentioned it just after a split tail with a distel, I thought you used it in conjuction with it and didn't understand how.
So, you mean you go up with SRT, then put away the ascender and change into your distel split tail, right?
Remember that as 165 said, the ascension plus only the pantin is not considered an acceptable practice.

Sergio


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jan 15, 2003)

WHat will you used for a lower ascender or redundancy in your SRT system?


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## mikecross23 (Jan 15, 2003)

I thought that I could use a distel hitch as the midline connection, then when I reach my tip (like Brian mentioned in a previous post) my split tail is already tied and all I'll have to do is untie my choked bowline and tie the working end to my saddle (w/ biner of course). Anyone see any problem O's w/ this idea. I haven't tried it yet but sounds to be the most efficient easiest way I've found so far.


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## treeclimber165 (Jan 15, 2003)

> _Originally posted by John Paul Sanborn _
> *WHat will you used for a lower ascender or redundancy in your SRT system? *


I know others use different methods, but what I have found so far is the following:
The Petzl Mini-Traxion works very well but I have been criticized for using it since it isn't rated for 5000lbs. I believe the rating is in the 4000 lb range. It can also be somewhat cumbersome to install and remove from the line since the carabiner must be completely removed first. It does self-advance very nicely.

The Gibbs ascender is worthless for this since it will not self-advance. It also has "NOT FOR SELF-BELAY" stamped on the side.

I use my friction hitch for my backup. I have been criticized for this also since "If the ascender fails it can push down on the friction hitch, causing the friction hitch to slide". This is true, but I do not see this as an issue. The hitch will only slide as long as I continue pulling down on the top. IF the ascender fails, it can slip down and bump the hitch causing me to slip maybe a few feet at most. I am aware of this and find it 100% acceptable. I do not believe I could get the ascender to fail and jam on the hitch until I hit the ground. I would have to work real hard at it for this to happen, if I let go the hitch grabs.

All you other guys who use SRT, chime in with your suggestions for backup. Also tell us WHAT YOU ACTUALLY USE IN REAL LIFE, not just the 'politically correct' answers. JPS?


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## Ghivelder (Jan 15, 2003)

Using a distel in conjuction with a handled ascender on SRT is O.K. In fact, it makes the pantin useless since you can tie a loop for your foot directly to the ascender (which must also be connected to your saddle).
Personally, like Tom, I don't love SRT on a choked rope. I think it's preferable to use a separate access line tied at the bottom of the tree.

Sergio


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jan 15, 2003)

I use a klemhiest in that position sometimes, but I have been told that there is a statisticaly significant chance of a friction hitch not locking if the upper ascender fails. 

Better then nothing.

Also cammed ascender can be fowled into opening when going through a twiggy canopy. So be carefull when brush is near.


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## Ghivelder (Jan 15, 2003)

> _Originally posted by treeclimber165 _
> *tell us WHAT YOU ACTUALLY USE IN REAL LIFE*



In real life I used to use a Petzl croll in a pure speleological fashion. The thing is that I am a footlock lover and now if I can't (or don't want to) make a throw for a doubled rope, I will use a "True Double Rope" and footlock up with my Kong double ascender. I will eventually start a new thread explaining how that works...

Sergio


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## lync (Jan 15, 2003)

*Back up for kong double*

Sergio

Might I ask what your using for a back up climbing a doubled rope with the kong double ascender? i assume that your footlocking the falling end. This is the same system I've been using. However I have not devised a backup that works well. I Can't find a beaner that fits through the top hole in the ascenders.
And both a prussic or kleimheist tied above the ascender greatly hinder its ease of sliding up the rope. Do you think a VT would grab a doubled rope well enough tied above the ascender should the ascender fail. I've also been thinking about tying the backup below the ascender but would i need two micro pullys to fair lead it.??? Any thoughts would help.

Corey


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## treeclimber165 (Jan 15, 2003)

Lync,
Here's one option, although it's fairly pricey for a tender pulley.
http://www.gx.starvedrockoutfitters...mv+Screen=PROD&Store_Code=G&Product_Code=9765

After looking at the tools and ascenders available, and my own inability to footlock, I found the SRT technique using the Pantin in order to 'footlock' was the fastest, easiest and most cost efficient way for me to ascend into large trees. I couldn't imagine spending so much extra money in order to use a double rope system, not to mention the extra time to set up and then transfer to my doubled rope setup for working the tree. Maybe I'm missing something. But for the meantime I will stick with SRT for long ascents.


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## mikecross23 (Jan 16, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Ghivelder _
> *Using a distel in conjuction with a handled ascender on SRT is O.K. In fact, it makes the pantin useless since you can tie a loop for your foot directly to the ascender (which must also be connected to your saddle).*
> 
> I've been using the Petzl Ascension for a while now w/ the foot loop attached to it and also attached to my saddle. I find that the foot loop is attached too high causing me to have a harder time pushing myself up. Instead it's a half up half outward push. That wastes a lot of my energy. It works but tires my lazy @#$ out. I still haven't had a chance to try my new pantin, but my suspision is that since it's attached to the rope itself directly below me, I will get a more efficient thrust w/ my legs.


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## mikecross23 (Jan 16, 2003)

*Forgot to mention. . .*

when I get done w/ my ascent and am done w/ the foot loop, it's a dang pain in my rump b/c it's all in the way, snaggin' on everything around and what not. Guess I could get a ditty bag. I hope the pantin can stay on and not be in the way. Any pantin users leave it on after the ascent is done?


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jan 16, 2003)

Mike, you can speedline the gear down to the groundies if they know how to hold the rope so it will not hit the ground or thier face.


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## treeclimber165 (Jan 16, 2003)

Mike, 
My Pantin stays on whenever I'm trimming. It's especially handy on multiple lead trees where I need to go up and down a few times rather than working the whole tree on my way down. When I need to go back up a ways, I just use the Pantin on the tail of my lifeline rather than body thrusting. It takes a LOT less energy. 
The Pantin is rarely in my way when not in use. Sometimes I have to rearrange my foot when standing in a tight crotch. Otherwise I forget I'm wearing it.


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## mikecross23 (Jan 16, 2003)

That's exactly what I want! Something that will stay out of my way when not in use and helps save my energy on ascents.


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## Ghivelder (Jan 16, 2003)

Mike,
I think that SRT, just like footlock, must be practised. The loop for your foot must be at the perfect height: as high as possible but still confortable, and at the same time, your outreached arm should be holding the ascender. The most important thing is to place your foot under your ass and then raise yourself in the same axis as the rope.
As for the Pantin, I think everyone if free to like it or not, but it must be thought of as a “footlock aider” and not as a part of a climbing system. If your system includes footlock, you can decide whether to use it or not. As Dan and 165 said, it makes more sense to use the Pantin in addition to a normal doubled rope friction hitch setup, then using it for SRT.

Corey,
I’m starting a new thread about backing up double ascenders.

Sergio


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## treeclimber165 (Jan 17, 2003)

I'm sure I might want a more intense ascent system for longer ascents, like for recreational climbing of 150' and more. But the Pantin and one handled ascender (with proper backup for the ascender) works quite well for me on my normal ascents of 50' to 90'. 
Like Sergio said, I do not consider my Pantin for life support. It is simply an aid so I can 'footlock' since I am completely unable to do so otherwise.


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## Tom Otto (Jan 18, 2003)

When I'm climbing the big trees 250'+ I use the frog setup, I think that's what you call it. A handled acender with a footloop that is also tied to my saddle, a mini traxion for back-up and a pantin on the other foot. I move each leg separately, instead of the sit/stand tech. The pantin is what makes it work so well, but it is most certainly just an assisting ascender.


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## mikecross23 (Jan 22, 2003)

*Tried out my new gear. . .*

Well, it was beautiful in N. Fla this last weekend and I put my days to good use. Did lots of climbing w/ my new gear. Anyone who had anything good to say about the Big Shot, well, you're darn right! ! ! I hit my target crotches very easily and way higher than I could ever hit before. I used my new ultra tech cord w/ spliced eyes (pg 15 Sherrill catalog) for my distel hitch. It was great b/c it didn't snug up too tight for me like the Blake's hitch did. The distel was used for my midline connection. I used my handled ascender also attached to my center D as my upper ascender and the Pantin as a crutch. To those of you who spoke so highly of the Pantin, Thank you! I LOVE IT! ! ! Like Brian (TC165) said, "Now I can practically run up the rope." 
The Pantin aint no joke! Before anyone feels the need to go on a rant about safety, STOP! I know the pantin is NOT considered a life support device. Simply an aid in ascending. Anyway I climbed w/ a split tail using the distel, handled ascender and pantin. I also climbed SRT the same way. Had a ball tryin' this stuff out. Think I've found a winner! Thanks all for the help!


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## treeclimber165 (Jan 22, 2003)

That's great to hear, Mike. I spent about $500 on different setups before coming up with that setup. As you get more comfortable and productive with it, you can explore other techniques and gear and develop the right setup for YOU! 

Welcome to Advanced Climbing!


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## mikecross23 (Jan 22, 2003)

Brian, wish I could claim that set up as my idea! To bad you're the brains behind that rig, ha ha! I'm going to place an order real soon for more cord b/c at $28.00 a pop for the ultra tech cord, I'll be sittin road side begin for food!


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jan 22, 2003)

check ou the prices on stable braid from these guys.

https://ssl2.adhost.com/seamar/search.cfm?category=name&searchterm=duralon&step=2

I bought a spool and have a spool of 3/8 tenex too.


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## treeclimber165 (Jan 22, 2003)

I'd try a couple different cord options and find what you like. I have some of that SB that JPS gave me last month and it seems nice. Too bad the website is so difficult to navigate, and no pictures. You need to go in knowing exactly what you want.

I've also gotten 8mm Sta Set and T-900 from www.SailNet.com . Excellent website, service and free shipping. Always got shipments within 3 days, usually 2. Several of the New England ropes are on sale this month also.


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