# A good trimming saw for $100?? Ryobi 10532 Review



## blsnelling (May 29, 2009)

I've got one of these little Ryobis here that several of you have mentioned for about $100. Immediately upon removing it from the box, it was obvious it was a Redmax. It looks nearly identical to my 3800, LINK. I believe this is a copy the Redmax GZ400, LINK. The only apparent difference between it and the 3800 is that it's stratofied.

Bone stock, it runs better than the 3800. The 3800 has to be muffler modded or is the most gutless saw I've ever run. Once opened up, they are very respectable and have been my favorite little saw.

Externally, these saws are very "plasticy". The fuel and oil caps are small and easy to miss or overfill. Underneath the covers though is a different story. These little saws are way better built than most of their competition. They have a vertically split magnesium case and a bolted on cylinder. The rod is beam shaped and has a caged needle bearing. The two bar studs are mounted in the metal crankcase, not in the plastic around it.

I've got this one torn down to see if I can get a little more grunt out of it. The ports are tiny and won't be easy to work in, but we'll see what happens.

I just thought you guys might like seeing what can be had for about $100, and is better built than most of the competition.












Fresh air is taken directly into the extra transfers above the intake port.





Back side of the intake block.




















These are the two extra transfers fed by the extra air intake ducts.


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## blsnelling (May 29, 2009)

Your normal transfers fed from the crankcase up through the walls of the cylinder.





Widening the exhaust will only be limited by the thin port walls, just like I had to deal with on my 3800.





It does not have the notch in the roof of the exhaust like the 3800. If one chose to raise the exhaust, doing so would be very simple since there is a lip cast into it at the cylinder wall. I'm not recommending that you do so though. You want all the torque you can build.





These cavaties in the piston are filled with air from the extra transfers directly over the intake port.


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## mowoodchopper (May 29, 2009)

What cc are they?


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## Motodeficient (May 29, 2009)

Yes what cc? Where did you get yours from? Keep us updated on how the mods come out and how it runs.


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## blsnelling (May 29, 2009)

40cc. I don't know where it came from. It was dropped shipped by a friend that I'm modding it for. It's going to his son as a graduation present.

Edit: I guess I could go look at the shipping invoice I'm too lazy (tired) to go upstairs, lol.


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## blsnelling (May 29, 2009)

BTW, it was a refurb at that price. It was in very good condition though.


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## huskystihl (May 29, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> 40cc. I don't know where it came from. It was dropped shipped by a friend that I'm modding it for. It's going to his son as a graduation present.
> 
> Edit: I guess I could go look at the shipping invoice I'm too lazy (tired) to go upstairs, lol.



Pretty sure home depot stocks them. I have actually had better luck with ryobi power tools than the big guys tools, especially with their cordless stuff.


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## mowoodchopper (May 29, 2009)

If they turn out to be a good little saw, they could make a nice first saw for a kid, nice and cheap!

I will have to paint it orange though, my son says huskys rule!


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## blsnelling (May 29, 2009)

mowoodchopper said:


> If they turn out to be a good little saw, they could make a nice first saw for a kid, nice and cheap!



If it's anything like my 3800, it'll hand a MS200 it's rear end. And all that for $100!


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## mowoodchopper (May 29, 2009)

let us know what you think! after you run it for awhile.


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## huskystihl (May 29, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> If it's anything like my 3800, it'll hand a MS200 it's rear end. And all that for $100!



Thats interesting. I looked at them but always figure that they came off the line where craftsmen went left and ryobi to the right.


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## blsnelling (May 29, 2009)

huskystihl said:


> Thats interesting. I looked at them but always figure that they came off the line where craftsmen went left and ryobi to the right.


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## mowoodchopper (May 29, 2009)

man it looks like it smoked the 180!


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## blsnelling (May 29, 2009)

mowoodchopper said:


> man it looks like it smoked the 180!



It did. And the 180 was modded too. It's the best performing, reasonably priced small saw I've messed with yet.


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## rms61moparman (May 29, 2009)

I'm looking forward to watching this!

I have to say that I have been impressed with Ryobi power tools. 
So much so that I bought a Ryobi string trimmer. Really nicely made but the most underpowered thing I've ever seen................until I pulled a Brad on it.

I figured what the heck it was worthless the way it was. 
After darn near doubling the size of the exhaust port, gutting the muffler, making a screw slot in the H needle and setting the carb I'm VERY pleased with it.

If that saw shows as much improvement as the trimmer did, I might need one of those.

:hmm3grin2orange:


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## ericjeeper (May 29, 2009)

*I hope it turns out to be a good one.*

I am sure the young man will enjoy it.. Maybe he will have it at a GTG?


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## blsnelling (May 29, 2009)

ericjeeper said:


> I am sure the young man will enjoy it.. Maybe he will have it at a GTG?



A GTG would be good


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## ericjeeper (May 29, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> A GTG would be good



Maybe this fall?


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## ericjeeper (May 29, 2009)

It was $110.00 with free shipping from cpoRyobi website.
http://www.cporyobi.com/products/zrry10532.html
was ordered on Wed. delivered on Friday


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## AOD (May 29, 2009)

Pretty cool, I need another saw like I need a hole in the head, but I'd still like to try one. I picked up a used 346XP recently that fills my void for a good mid-size saw.


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## blsnelling (May 29, 2009)

ericjeeper said:


> It was $110.00 with free shipping from cpoRyobi website.
> http://www.cporyobi.com/products/zrry10532.html
> was ordered on Wed. delivered on Friday



I thought I'd let Eric spill the beans if he wanted to. I didn't know if his sone read this forum or if it was a secret or not.


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## 2000ssm6 (May 29, 2009)

A $100 ported Roybi?? CAD to the next level.


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## Sc0 (May 29, 2009)

Hmm, looks like Stihl could learn a few tips on casting/machining...


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## blsnelling (May 30, 2009)

It's back together and running. Unfortunately it has a rev limited ignition and I can't tell what's turning. I'll have to tune it in the wood tomorrow and see how it compares to my 3800, which I already know outperforms a MS200.

This was truely an experiment. With the odd intake shape and extra transfers, it was different than any saw I've ported. Throttle response is now lightning quick. Very responsive. I think we've got a runner here. I'll try to get a vid up tomorrow.


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## rmh3481 (May 30, 2009)

Thanks for posting the pics Brad. Very interesting.

Thanks,
Bob


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## ericjeeper (May 30, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I thought I'd let Eric spill the beans if he wanted to. I didn't know if his sone read this forum or if it was a secret or not.



It is a secret.. But he does not read here.. At least I do not think he reads here..LOL


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## RandyMac (May 30, 2009)

Way cool, I'm sure he will love it. I have always liked little chainsaws that run strong, I checked out the site, good deal.


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## whitedogone (May 30, 2009)

They seem to be put together well. But, there sure are a LOT of those things refurbished on the net. Makes one wonder why. WDO


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## whitedogone (May 30, 2009)

Kind of funny, a coworker was just asking about this saw the other day. Check Amazon


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## ericjeeper (May 30, 2009)

*Big box store return policies*

I would bet a dollar to a doughnut.. Some home owner bought the saw.. Took it home and cleaned up their lawn from a storm.. Then returned it for a full refund.. Sure beats a rental fee, yes?


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## whitedogone (May 30, 2009)

ericjeeper said:


> I would bet a dollar to a doughnut.. Some home owner bought the saw.. Took it home and cleaned up their lawn from a storm.. Then returned it for a full refund.. Sure beats a rental fee, yes?




Excellent point.


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## whitedogone (May 30, 2009)

I wonder if a fella could make $ stripping these down and selling them as:

http://www.zenoah.com/


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## lmalterna (May 30, 2009)

Anxious to hearrns out- nice looking little saw. One reveiwer said after only 10 days of use the chain was dull.... 10 days for the chain to get dull!!!!!!! I wonder what and how much he cut. Just how many saws has this idiot run?

2Door


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## ericjeeper (May 30, 2009)

*I read that one too..*



lmalterna said:


> Anxious to hearrns out- nice looking little saw. One reveiwer said after only 10 days of use the chain was dull.... 10 days for the chain to get dull!!!!!!! I wonder what and how much he cut. Just how many saws has this idiot run?
> 
> 2Door



cracked me up.. He is darned good with a saw to use it for ten days and not get it into the dirt,, I was bucking up what was left after my GTG and I was trenching a lot of dirt.. I doubt I was getting ten minutes between filings LOL..But I was using an old chain with this in mind,Logs were piled where they could not be rolled to cut the bottom out..No biggie I know how to file a chain.(Gives me a rest while waiting on the two boys to get it picked up and split.


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## blsnelling (May 30, 2009)

The verdict is in. Do not fear 2010! This baby rips and smokes my 3800. Stratofied or not, the power is there. It's 15% faster than my 3800, which is faster than a MS200T. Beat that for $110 if you can!

You'll notice in the video that the Ryobi has a rev limited ignition. Tuning is more difficult since it must be done in the wood with a load. I pulled the plug after the last heavy load cut and it looked great.

The Ryobi simply has more power. It pulls more RPMs at every load point. It has better throttle response, more RPMs in the cut, and _should _be better on fuel.

I completely felt my way around the porting of this saw with it being stratofied. Something worked! I'm tickled pink

I probably ought to order one of these before I post this video, LOL


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## ericjeeper (May 30, 2009)

*Looks like an excellent saw for light wood*

It ought to tickle him pink to have something to run of his own.. He as an older johny red/pullon 36cc but it is a POS in my opinion.Thanks Brad..


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## blsnelling (May 30, 2009)

ericjeeper said:


> Thanks Brad..



You're welcome. It was the least I could do for you for hosting our GTGs. Tell your son to enjoy it and have fun. Happy graduation!


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## Vibes (May 30, 2009)

I bought one of those saws at one of those firehall tool truckload sales last year for $119. Supposedly it was refurbished. I think the reason people take them back is that when you're bucking with them they stall if there is less than half a tank of gas. 

People laughed at me when they saw that toy looking plastic handle on the pull start, but I said it the first time I ran that saw that I really liked it. I've been taking it instead of my J-Red 2150 more and more. Put a Woodsman Pro 30LP chain on em and they cut allot better. It cuts all day on a tank of gas.

I don't think Home Depot sells those saws anymore because they now sell the Homelites around here now. My sons girlfreind works at HD and she told me they pitched several of those returned ones when they quit handling them. Might wanna check the dumpsters for some real bargains. I've also seen the refurbs on E-Bay for $109.


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## blsnelling (May 30, 2009)

They desperately need a muffler mod if nothing else. There's just one tiny little hole for the exhaust. You can do it without splitting the muffler.


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## whitedogone (May 30, 2009)

I used to run RC planes way back. The big boys were running Zenoah's on the front end. That saw looks exactly like some of those pp's as I recall. Them fella's were replacing the limited coils with somethig as I remember. I'm not sure if they were getting them from Zenoah of not. But, you can order parts from them for their RC stuff. WDO


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## blsnelling (May 30, 2009)

whitedogone said:


> Them fella's were replacing the limited coils with somethig as I remember. I'm not sure if they were getting them from Zenoah of not. But, you can order parts from them for their RC stuff. WDO



I'd guess that they were converting them to glow for RC applications. That way you can remove the flywheel and save that all important weight.


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## mowoodchopper (May 30, 2009)

Looks awesome brad, It really seemed to hang in there under heavy load without bogging!
I may have to look for one, the funny thing is I saw one at the truckload tool sale a few months ago and dismissed it as a piece of junk!

I may try to get one for my son! That is if I can get brad to port it !

Of course then Ill have to test it for a few months until he is ready to run it!


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## Vibes (May 30, 2009)

Mine is stock except for replacing the bar with a 14'' from some old Poulan and the 30LP chain. It cuts real good for me.


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## Cliff R (May 31, 2009)

Brad, the results didn't surprise me at all. I've been running our Husqvarna 435 with the strato-charged engine and it smoked a new Echo CS-400 and my modded CS-370. Plenty of power at every rpm. Next I'm going to do some timed cuts between the 435 and the Shindaiwa 488, and the Husqvarna 51 and 55.

I'm betting the 435 will beat the 488 and the 51, and be just about dead even with the 55.....Cliff


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## Freehand (May 31, 2009)

Brad,I really like your videos-you get alot of action in a minute and a half.........no unnecessary drama like pausing at the cut for effect.

Also,you show the power band range very nicely-thanks.

We should all use your "template" for all performance videos.

Oh yea,that ryobi cuts like a litte beast!


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## parrisw (May 31, 2009)

Wow, I see a Zenoah cylinder!! They make quality stuff!!!


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## blsnelling (May 31, 2009)

parrisw said:


> Wow, I see a Zenoah cylinder!! They make quality stuff!!!



Oh yeah. It's just a rebadged Redmax, which is part of Zenoah.


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## blsnelling (May 31, 2009)

freehandslabber said:


> Brad,I really like your videos-you get alot of action in a minute and a half.........no unnecessary drama like pausing at the cut for effect.
> 
> Also,you show the power band range very nicely-thanks.
> 
> ...



Thanks 'slabber. I edit out all the dead time. I wanted to put idle and WOT in there as well but didn't capture it for the Ryobi.


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## catman963 (May 31, 2009)

freehandslabber said:


> Brad,I really like your videos-you get alot of action in a minute and a half.........no unnecessary drama like pausing at the cut for effect.
> 
> Also,you show the power band range very nicely-thanks.
> 
> ...




:agree2: Awesome work there Brad - rep sent your way!!


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## 2manytoys4me (Jun 3, 2009)

i just had to have one based on brads review. came today. was 119.00 shipped. drilled 2 more holes in the muffler. it now runs and sounds just like my dolmar 510. real screamer. the only negs i see are the made in china sticker , semi skip chain, and it puts out a little too much bar oil. i believe most of the parts are made in japan. and it uses 50 to 1 mix. most china junk are 25 to 1. am very happy with it so far. think i will replace bar and chain. havent put it to wood yet.


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## Cliff R (Jun 3, 2009)

Mine showed up today as well, and to my surprise it is a NEW one, never been used.....sounds great.....THEN I found out why?

It refuses to run. I quickly found two problems with it, corrected them, and I have a brand new never cut a stick of wood Ryobi limbing saw.

Two problems to look out for. The fuel line is WAY too long, and the filter not weighted enough to keep it in down in the fuel. Shortened the line and added 3 washers to it, all is fine there.

Then it refuses to stay running for more than about 30 seconds at a time, without loosening the gas cap.

So I quickly found out why it never made it to a log after being sold and was marked as "refurbished". I'm sure it was ran or briefly tested, but no one tried to cut with it, or run it any length of time.

Anyhow, I removed the cover, carb and vent, and took the vent apart. Low and behold, the rubber end of the vent was pushed down too far, blocking off the hole into the tank. Fixed that and it's running FLAWLESSLY!

I will say that my initial impression of the saw is pretty good, but it does NOT run as strong as my Husqvarna 435. I'll give it a few tanks and some fine tuning as see if this improves some. I did muffler mod the Ryobi per a PM to Brad, thanks, that was easy and worked fine.....Cliff


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## Gumnuts (Jun 3, 2009)

*Brad* What Diameter stick is that ? 
Bar length 14 or 16" ? 
Do they have a top handle model?....opened up it beats the MS200t......wow....big claim / not doubting ya ,tis just a big claim !
Wonder how it would compare to the 026 ?
Definitely looks like a good / cheap addition for harness
work.


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## blsnelling (Jun 3, 2009)

Gumnuts said:


> *Brad* What Diameter stick is that ?
> Bar length 14 or 16" ?
> Do they have a top handle model?....opened up it beats the MS200t......wow....big claim / not doubting ya ,tis just a big claim !
> Wonder how it would compare to the 026 ?
> ...



I don't have video to prove it but I ran a good running 200T at a GTG with I believe a 12" bar, and my ported 3800 cut significantly faster. This G400 is faster yet. I'd like to get my hands on a GZ4500 now


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## woodyman (Jun 3, 2009)

Brad,nice job on the Ryobi and vids.I was wondering if you knew the weight difference between the Ryobi and the MS180?


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## blsnelling (Jun 3, 2009)

woodyman said:


> Brad,nice job on the Ryobi and vids.I was wondering if you knew the weight difference between the Ryobi and the MS180?



It's in the old thread I did, but I believe they're like 9.25 and 9.5 lbs. Not much difference at all.


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## parrisw (Jun 3, 2009)

What about a 200T that has been opened up?


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## blsnelling (Jun 3, 2009)

parrisw said:


> What about a 200T that has been opened up?



I'm sure it would respond well. I did not consider it because of the price.


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## howellhandmade (Jun 3, 2009)

Got mine today also. The Made in China sticker was an unpleasant surprise -- are Redmaxes made in China now? Haven't taken it apart to look at the cylinder. Brad, did yours have the China sticker?

It's dark now, so I'll have to try it tomorrow. I think the 18" bar and semi-skip chain are ludicrous; I put on a 16" and a full comp low profile Woodland Pro chain. The chain adjuster seems a little flimsy but it's nice to have it on the side.

Jack


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## woodyman (Jun 3, 2009)

Thanks,I was looking at another limbing saw and didn't want one that was too heavy.I was at the Stihl dealer Mon. and they had a couple MS180's.Picked one up and it seemed light enough for what I was looking for.They had 3 shevles of Stihl saws but only 2 MS260's and 2 MS361's,the rest were homeowner saws.Would you advise getting the Ryobi 10532 over the MS180?


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## HimWill (Jun 3, 2009)

Re-read CliffR's post,and if you're comfortable drilling some holes in the muffler then you're question is answered.


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## woodyman (Jun 3, 2009)

I would be more comfortable welding a big ole tube on it:jawdrop: but yes that would be no problem.I was also thinking of parts replacment if anything did break.Parts for the Stihl MS180 would be easy to get.


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## blsnelling (Jun 3, 2009)

woodyman said:


> Would you advise getting the Ryobi 10532 over the MS180?



In a heartbeat.


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## ericjeeper (Jun 3, 2009)

*I handed the ryobi to my son tonight*

He opened the box and asked who is Brad Snelling? LOL I told him it was the guy with the truck load of Stihls at the GTGs he said Cool.. Then he asked is it still stock? I said well of course not.. We put a 12" bar and 3/8 lo/pro chain on it from my husky. And put fuel in it and it fired right up.
I did notice where the clutch has rubbed the chain cover..Not sure how long or if that is still an issue or if that is the reason it was returned. I told Jake he could use it for firewood, or save it to play with at the next GTG.. He was all smiles and told me to make sure I told Brad thanks.. Hey Brad, Jake was all smiles when he was handling it..


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## blsnelling (Jun 3, 2009)

Excellent. Couldn't wait until the 14th for the party huh? Did he cut with it yet? I did notice where the clutch had rubbed the cover. Not sure what would have caused that.


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## HimWill (Jun 3, 2009)

woodyman said:


> I would be more comfortable welding a big ole tube on it:jawdrop: but yes that would be no problem.I was also thinking of parts replacment if anything did break.Parts for the Stihl MS180 would be easy to get.



On an older thread,there is some discussion about Sears carrying the same saw as a Craftsman Professional.If you can locate the Sears model number then sears.com should have the parts.


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## ericjeeper (Jun 3, 2009)

*Speaking of repair parts*

If one of these saws will give you a year or two of good dependable service.////If it was not for Brads Labor on this saw.. For 110 bucks they are disposable the way I see it.. If it needs more than 3 washers on the fuel clunk, or a carb cleaning..Toss it..


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## blsnelling (Jun 3, 2009)

ericjeeper said:


> If one of these saws will give you a year or two of good dependable service.////If it was not for Brads Labor on this saw.. For 110 bucks they are disposable the way I see it.. If it needs more than 3 washers on the fuel clunk, or a carb cleaning..Toss it..



Got to agree with you. I would guess they would run quite well with just a muffler mod and retuned for the average user.


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## Brian_NC (Jun 3, 2009)

HimWill said:


> On an older thread,there is some discussion about Sears carrying the same saw as a Craftsman Professional.If you can locate the Sears model number then sears.com should have the parts.



I've got what I guess is the Sears version of the saw, with exception the chain adjuster it looks identical, although it has made in Japan on it. The model is 358.362180. Ya'll are right on about them needing the muffler opened, mine acts like it has a muzzle on it.


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## Cliff R (Jun 3, 2009)

The extra long fuel line is going to be a problem. Mine required removal of apprx 2" of the line before the filter would find it's way to the lower part of the tank. As delivered to me, the fuel line was right under the gas cap, and about an inch and a half up out of the fuel. The line was too long and too rigid to allow it to fall to the bottom of the tank or furthers point in the tank from the gas cap when the saw was put on it's side.

I pulled the line out of the tank and removed about an inch from it, but that wasn't enough. I removed another 1" from it, slipped 3 #10 washers up against the filter, and it found it's way to the bottom of the tank and as submerged in the fuel as it's going to get.

I ran a full tank through it after fixing the vent, and it never died out once or acted like it was going to go lean. Before making the repairs, it wouldn't stay running over 30 seconds at any one time.

The saw has very good power, but the chain wasn't aggressive enough. I removed quite a bit from the rakers and touched up the teeth and it was much better the second time out. 

I'll take it to the woods for a day and see how well it performs. Right now I don't think it's as strong as my Husqvarna 435 anyplace, but a few timed cuts in the same log might surprise me?

The muffler mod is easy, I started out with a 5/16" bit, then moved up to 3/8", then opened it up to around 1/2" with a carbide cutter, finishing/smoothing it with a sanding roll. I did mess up bad once and the 3/8" bit grabbed and drilled thru the back of the muffler...oops! A couple of minutes with the MIG and it's good as new.......Cliff


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## HimWill (Jun 3, 2009)

Here is the post from 2008:

New Craftsman Professional Made in Japan?
I went in a local sears today and while i was there i was going to check out the craftsmanPoulans they had. i came across something i was not expecting. A Craftsman Professional that did not look like a Poulan. It also had a Made in Japan sticker on it. The AV mounts kinda reminded me of an ECHO. its model number 358.362180. Here is the link to sears site. The guy said they just got them in this month. On sale it was 299.99 off sale it was like 360.00 i think. Anyone know who might make this one?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...awn+&+Garden


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## woodyman (Jun 3, 2009)

If I did get one of these Ryobi 10532's which bars off which saws can be run on these?


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## 67 Mustang (Jun 3, 2009)

woodyman said:


> If I did get one of these Ryobi 10532's which bars off which saws can be run on these?



It's got an Oregon A041 mount so it runs the same bar as the smaller Poulans, Crafsman, Echo, Redmax and probably many more.


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## howellhandmade (Jun 3, 2009)

I don't have any other saws with these tamper-proof carb adjustment screws. What a pain in the tuckus. Is there a standard tool for these things or is every manufacturer different?

Also, I'm still curious about the China business, and disappointed. Even if this saw uses a Zenoah cylinder and a Redmax design, is it not possible that a Chinese company bought a license to produce the design, perhaps bought some parts as well? I haven't seen many Redmaxes, but I thought they were all made in Japan. If some Redmax models are now made in China that seems like a significant shift. Does everyone's Ryobi say Made in China? Anyone have a Redmax G400; where was it made? 

Jack


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## blsnelling (Jun 3, 2009)

howellhandmade said:


> I don't have any other saws with these tamper-proof carb adjustment screws. What a pain in the tuckus. Is there a standard tool for these things or is every manufacturer different?
> 
> Jack



I simply put a cutoff wheel in my Dremel and cut a slot in the needle heads. Yes, that required cutting the aluminum surrounding them. It's nothing but a "shroud" anyway.


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## 04ultra (Jun 3, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> It did. And the 180 was modded too. It's the best performing, reasonably priced small saw I've messed with yet.



What chain on the 180??? 






.


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## blsnelling (Jun 3, 2009)

04ultra said:


> What chain on the 180???
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I don't recall for sure, but I believe the best cut times were with 30LP.


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## 04ultra (Jun 4, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> The verdict is in. Do not fear 2010! This baby rips and smokes my 3800. Stratofied or not, the power is there. It's 15% faster than my 3800, which is faster than a MS200T. Beat that for $110 if you can!
> 
> You'll notice in the video that the Ryobi has a rev limited ignition. Tuning is more difficult since it must be done in the wood with a load. I pulled the plug after the last heavy load cut and it looked great.
> 
> ...



*Looks like it will give the Snellerized 346NE a run for the money* ...







.


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## 2000ssm6 (Jun 4, 2009)

woodyman said:


> Would you advise getting the Ryobi 10532 over the MS180?



If you will need parts or support later on, better had go with the Stihl. I have doubts on that Roybi holding up, atleast if the 180 didn't you could take it back under warrenty. Not saying either one is built better, because they are both cheap saws, but I got a lot more trust in the Stihl if problems arise.


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## fredmc (Jun 4, 2009)

2000ssm6 said:


> If you will need parts or support later on, better had go with the Stihl. I have doubts on that Roybi holding up, atleast if the 180 didn't you could take it back under warrenty. Not saying either one is built better, because they are both cheap saws, but I got a lot more trust in the Stihl if problems arise.



For a hundred bucks I'm gonna throw it in the pile and buy a new one. Who needs service on a cheap saw like that? Way better deal than the poulans at wally world!


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## Cliff R (Jun 4, 2009)

I got a new one delivered to my door for $109. Maybe I should grab 3-4 more for parts? As Brad's review no doubt sparked sales of the "refurbished" units considerably!

You just can't beat the price, a decent bar and chain will cost at least $30, it's like buying the saw for $79.

I'll be doing some timed cuts as soon as it quits raining here against our Husqvarna 435, and will post the results.....Cliff


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## blsnelling (Jun 4, 2009)

2000ssm6 said:


> II have doubts on that Roybi holding up, atleast if the 180 didn't you could take it back under warrenty. Not saying either one is built better, because they are both cheap saws, but I got a lot more trust in the Stihl if problems arise.



Stihl parts availability is definately a plus. However, this Ryobi is build much stronger than the Stihl. I have a lot more detail on this in the other small saw thread I did. Price wise, this is a throw away saw. Construction wise, it is not. Don't let the plasticky shell fool you.


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## blsnelling (Jun 4, 2009)

Cliff R said:


> I got a new one delivered to my door for $109. Maybe I should grab 3-4 more for parts? As Brad's review no doubt sparked sales of the "refurbished" units considerably!
> 
> You just can't beat the price, a decent bar and chain will cost at least $30, it's like buying the saw for $79.
> 
> I'll be doing some timed cuts as soon as it quits raining here against our Husqvarna 435, and will post the results.....Cliff



I nearly bought one myself, knowing that there would be an increase in sales. I think I'm holding out for a GZ4500 though

I'm anxious to see how it does agains the Husky.


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## 2000ssm6 (Jun 4, 2009)

fredmc said:


> Who needs service on a cheap saw like that?



I'd say 75%+ of *** buyers need support after the sale, one of the reasons Stihl is so big. We belong to a very small community that tinkers with them.


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## 2000ssm6 (Jun 4, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Stihl parts availability is definately a plus. However, this Ryobi is build much stronger than the Stihl. I have a lot more detail on this in the other small saw thread I did. Price wise, this is a throw away saw. Construction wise, it is not. Don't let the plasticky shell fool you.



Plastic doesn't bother me at all and if that Roybi lasts, then good for them. I don't see them being a big hit though.


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## 04ultra (Jun 4, 2009)

HOBO had referb Wildthingys for 89.00 last year .........

I thought I saw Brad in line buying them by the pallet load......


.


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## blsnelling (Jun 4, 2009)

04ultra said:


> HOBO had referb Wildthingys for 89.00 last year .........
> 
> I thought I saw Brad in line buying them by the pallet load......
> 
> ...



I would have, except they said you got the last one:greenchainsaw: They said something about you painting the orange and black and selling them as 5100Ss, lol.


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## 04ultra (Jun 4, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I would have, except they said you got the last one:greenchainsaw: They said something about you painting the orange and black and selling them as 5100Ss, lol.



No that was all orange and selling them as NE 346's ....







.


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## blsnelling (Jun 4, 2009)

04ultra said:


> No that was all orange and selling them as NE 346's ....



Now them I would buy by the pallet!


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## Rea's Dad (Jun 4, 2009)

howellhandmade said:


> Also, I'm still curious about the China business, and disappointed. Even if this saw uses a Zenoah cylinder and a Redmax design, is it not possible that a Chinese company bought a license to produce the design, perhaps bought some parts as well? I haven't seen many Redmaxes, but I thought they were all made in Japan. If some Redmax models are now made in China that seems like a significant shift. Does everyone's Ryobi say Made in China? Anyone have a Redmax G400; where was it made?
> 
> Jack




If I am not mistaken the Ryobi is a Redmax model GZ400 (Homeowner) which is assembled in China from Japanese and Chinese parts. The Sears Professional is a Remadmax GZ4000 (Commercial)and is made in Japan.

I think the only major differences are a little more sturdy design on the 4000 and you get a longer warranty. It also costs quite a bit more than the 400. I have never handled the 400, but the other Redmax saws I have seen are quite nice.


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## blsnelling (Jun 4, 2009)

This Ryobi has the Zenoah cylinder made in Japan.


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## lmalterna (Jun 4, 2009)

O.K. so I ordered one too.. saved me money actually... I was eyeing a MS361 just "because" and now I just bought a saw so I don't need another one for at least two weeks. Plus now I can sell my 242XP and my never used MS180C 


2Door


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## HimWill (Jun 4, 2009)

I've been working with these little saws for a little over two months now.The ice storm that hit this area in Feb. brought a lot of saws out of storage and sold a lot of new ones.From what experience I've had with them,they are a very good saw.The weak points have been covered (crazy-wack fuel line and super restricted muffler)and addressed.I have noticed that running the stock "safety" chain will create a lot of dust that finds its way into the carb box.I think the reason so much dust gets in there is because the carb box is too tightly sealed.The only real opening to the outside is through the carb screw adjustment holes.I think that situation is creating a high negative pressure that pulls the dust in since it is so light and fine.
I've been looking at ways to free up the airflow into the box,that would stop the "fines" from accumulating and free up the other side on the engine.Modding the muffler really brings them to life,modding the carb box to ease the airflow should also show some improvement.
Any ideas?


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## blsnelling (Jun 4, 2009)

Anyone want an already ported and muffler modded 3800 for $250? That would free me up to buy a GZ4500, mod, and try out for you guys viewing pleasure


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## Cliff R (Jun 4, 2009)

I forgot to mention that when I sharpened the chain on ours, I used a cut off wheel to grind off the safety feature on the links between the cutters. BIG wake-up call for that chain, as it wasn't cutting very well even after I dropped the rakers a bit.

I would also mention that the defective vent on ours was easy to access and repair, it's right under the carburetor once you get the cover out of the way. The top just pops off of it, and the rubber insert was smashed too deep. Raised in slightly, tested it, popped the top back on back in business....Cliff


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## striperswaper (Jun 4, 2009)

why is there a warrenty difference between the GZ400 & GZ4000?


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## Taxmantoo (Jun 4, 2009)

howellhandmade said:


> I don't have any other saws with these tamper-proof carb adjustment screws. What a pain in the tuckus. Is there a standard tool for these things or is every manufacturer different?



Ryobi and Homelite use that double D thing. Husky/Poulan is splined. Then there's the "Pac-Man" style and the single D. 

The Homelite number for the driver is 308535002.
I got one on ebay for about $6 delivered. That was after I wasted time slotting the screws (in situ, because I couldn't get them out before slotting them). I can adjust a running engine with the factory driver, but not with a straight blade driver in homemade slots. Ebay price is closer to $7 now, postage went up last month. 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270374905380

Last I knew, CPO Ryobi sold them for $99.95, but only through Amazon. I bought mine direct from CPO Ryobi in January and got that price. Been waiting for them to hit $90 to buy a few more, new demand from this thread will probably destroy that dream.


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## howellhandmade (Jun 4, 2009)

Okay, I spent some time with the Ryobi today. I was not predisposed to like this saw. Perhaps the distinction between made in Japan and made in China is unnecessarily fine so far as the US economy is concerned, but I didn't want a saw from China, I'm sick of not being able to find anything to buy that isn't made in China. I went today to buy a glove to play catch with my daughter, and one after the other was made in China. Ball gloves! I think there was one for $179 that was made in the USA. Finally I bought one from Thailand. Sigh.

Anyway, the saw. It's easy to handle, works well. Lots of features for the price. Anti-vibe springs? Oooh, you're a big saw, yes you ARE. Chain brake check, push, nothing. Is it a dummy? Push harder. CLICK!!! Man, that's a stiff chain brake, not sure kickback could engage it. Coughed in three pulls, fired in one, straight out of the box. Tuning was quite good, great idle, throttle response, four-stroking coming out of a cut. I cut for almost a whole tank, cut up a bunch of limbs for the brush pile from a locust that came down yesterday. Bucked a pile of limbs about thigh size. Moved on to some logs that I'd planned to buck up with my MS660. With a 16" bar and Woodland Pro WPL chain, it cut very well. Lots of cuts with the bar buried, not particularly easy to stall. The fuel pickup was not an issue, saw ran with no hiccups until I stopped with very little fuel in the tank. Oiling was fine. Fuel and oil caps are small, but they didn't come off or leak. 

Despite my prejudice, I can't find anything to complain about, especially considering the price. OK, I think the chain brake is probably too stiff to do any good, there are some tingly vibes despite the AV springs. But it started beyond easily, ran flawlessly, and pulled a 16" bar and low profile chain just fine, without mods. It's FAR less cheesy and FAR better equipped than a comparably priced Poulan. Durability? It's got Zenoah guts, and my Redmax has been reliable. Time will tell, I suppose it could stop running tomorrow. After all, these units that got reconditioned had to come from somewhere. But it occurred to me as I bucked a couple of logs that I had to chew from both sides and just barely met in the middle that if I absolutely had to, I could do the whole locust with this saw, and a typical homeowner, if he didn't run old mix or let it sit all year with fuel in it, might never need anything more. If everything were the same except it were made in the USA I'd be doing cartwheels over it instead of sitting here pondering.

Jack


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## blsnelling (Jun 4, 2009)

And so the phenomena known as *"The Toy Thing"* is born


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## Taxmantoo (Jun 4, 2009)

howellhandmade said:


> Man, that's a stiff chain brake, not sure kickback could engage it.



Mine engages easily, but I have to pull it hard against the handlebar to disengage it, and sometimes it reactivates when I let go of the lever. Hope there's some kind of adjustment there, but it's probably just the kind of inconsistent quality that the Chinese make for those cheap Americans. (a Chinese Army SKS is a nice little battle rifle, an export model SKS is a piece of crap made to sell in quantity for $35 each)

Got to say my Husky 36 is the best small saw chain brake that I've handled. Flick the wrist, it's on. Tug with one finger and it's off. With my Husky there's no need to let go of the handlebar so I can make the brake lever touch the bar.


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## woodyman (Jun 4, 2009)

Think I will be passing on the Ryobi,don't think it would look good on me.Sure would like to get the MS200.Thats the one I want or is it the one I need.


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## Cliff R (Jun 4, 2009)

"new demand from this thread will probably destroy that dream."

Thanks to Brad you'll be lucky if you can even get by now!

Update, ran another tank through mine this evening, went out to one of the woodpiles and did some cross cutting and cut up some HUGE Beech chunks.

I'm starting to get impressed. Made it thru an entire tank of fuel without a grumble, and even let it idle for quite a while a few times while I moved some chucks of wood around to get at them.

The power this little saw makes is pretty impressive. As Brad menitioned earlier in the thread, it requires load to set the carburetor correctly. I slotted the screws on mine before I ever ran it, but removed them and put springs on them first. They were WAY too easy to turn for my liking without the springs.

Anyhow, the saw really wants to rpm, but as you go leaner with it, it starts to give up some mid-range power, same as my Husqvarna 435 did when I tuned it. You basically have to go rich with it, till it misses and looses some power, then lean it up just a tiny bit at a time, make a cut, and continue to do this until best power is found. There is a very fine line between it "4 stroking" and going on the rev limiter. The ideal setting for mine was about 1/8th turn past (clockwise) the highest rpm I could get it to 4-stroke w/o the rev limiter.

I hope to have some timed cut results posted by the weekend between the Ryobi and the 435.....Cliff


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## huskystihl (Jun 4, 2009)

Great here come the greatest thing since the 361! No offense Brad. I give it 6 months and every other member will have one of these.


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## HimWill (Jun 4, 2009)

In between rainstorms today,I wiped off this little guy for a photo.It's wearing a 12" bar and 3/8 LP Woodland Pro.I would have liked to have the 14" setup but the 12" combo was too good to pass up.Here's why:

https://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=BCC+12+EP50&catID=708

The ice damage around here was limbs up to about 10" to 12" max.This setup was about ideal to handle this.I had ordered 4 of these combos,for my S25 Poulan,but three of them ended up on Ryobis.I ordered a couple more last week,they're that good.It makes the saw look a little "snubnosed",but looks aren't everything.


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## woodyman (Jun 4, 2009)

How do these Ryobi's cut compared to lets say a Wildthing,they are 40cc's and a throw away saw too for $119.00 new.There is a guy at work that has a Wildthing and he can't say enough about it's cutting speed and reliability.


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## Cliff R (Jun 4, 2009)

I ordered 4 of them earlier today, but they have not confirmed the order yet. They may be out of stock on them?.....Cliff


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## HimWill (Jun 4, 2009)

When I ordered the combos,I wasn't aware that they even fit the Ryobis.After using the stock setup on the Ryobis,I stumbled upon the fact that they would work.Some of the guys using the 18" setup had little or no chainsaw experience and keeping safe with that much bar on a majority of 3" to 6" limbs was making me nervous.Too much bar to keep track of in the tangled mess.Went to the short bars,everything really smoothed out for the operators.I hope that Bailey's has enough to go around for those of you that ordered the saws.A really handy setup for limbing.

Cliff,what do you think about opening up the carb box somewhat to improve the airflow?


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## Cliff R (Jun 4, 2009)

I was wondering if there was enough area leading into the airbox as to not be a bit restrictive?

I'll look at it some more after the saw gets a few more tanks ran through it, to see just exactly where all the intake air is coming from, and if there is any room for improvement?

I modified the exhaust before the saw was even started. That mod was pretty easy, well, inless your bit grabs and drills clear thru the back of the muffler!....Cliff


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## HimWill (Jun 4, 2009)

When you really take the time to look it over,it makes you wonder how they run at all.The carb box is really well sealed.The carb intake is about 3/4" or so and the extra air intakes for the strato are 1/2" each.At wide open throttle,that's a lot of air that has to find its way into the box.The only opening to the outside air is through the carb adjustment holes,not much area there.I think that the muffler mod,to move out the exhaust more efficiently,is taken as a given to boost performance on most engines.The other end of the equation,enhanced air intake,is seldom even considered.On these saws,with their design,I think additional gains are possible with an air box mod.Nothing radical,just a hole or two should do it nicely.Yes,but where to put the holes?


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## blsnelling (Jun 4, 2009)

So anyone ready to pick up my 3800 so that I can order a GZ4500 tomorrow?


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## HimWill (Jun 4, 2009)

Go ahead and order the GZ4500.I think when you "showcase" the 3800 at the upcoming GTG you'll find it a new owner.


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## howellhandmade (Jun 4, 2009)

woodyman said:


> How do these Ryobi's cut compared to lets say a Wildthing,they are 40cc's and a throw away saw too for $119.00 new.There is a guy at work that has a Wildthing and he can't say enough about it's cutting speed and reliability.



Lots of folks want whatever they have to be the best, whatever it is. I think if you're one of these folks and your WildThing doesn't break and you don't have anything to compare it to, it's the best saw in the world. I've got an 8- or 9-year-old 2150, shares lots of parts with a WildThing and is basically the same saw with 33cc instead of 40, and it's been reliable too. It gets used a lot, gets the worst jobs and the oldest mix, and if it's got a sharp chain you might think it had enough power for a 16" bar. 

The Ryobi is a better saw. Its vertically split magnesium case should be enough. The Poulan's is plastic, and feels it. I've looked up the manual for the WildThing on the Poulan website. It does appear to have a chain brake (which my 2150 does not). The Ryobi has a side chain adjuster, the Poulan's is in front by the bar. Both are on the cover, but the Poulan's is a noted weak point and there are lots of gripes about it. Both have spur sprocket/clutches, but the Ryobi's looks better, more substantial drum, more cleanly made clutch parts, three springs and arms rather than two. The Ryobi has a removable filter cover and a fine screen filter; on the Poulan (from the manual, the WT seems to be the same as my 2150) is it evidently intended that you never clean your filter, since you have to remove four screws that are sunk into plastic and take off the one-piece cylinder cover to get to it. You do that enough and the plastic that the screws go into gets buggered. You don't do it at all and the engine gets buggered. It's a telling point about which saw seems intended to be used and maintained.

Switch gear is pretty much a wash. Both triggers are kind of gritchy and flimsy-feeling, choke knobs are both skinny, both kill switches seem like they might not last but my Poulan's has done fine so I should probably give the Ryobi's the benefit of the doubt. Overall feel goes to the Poulan, I think. It feels more balanced between the hands, more level in attitude. The Ryobi's handle placement puts more weight on the left hand and the nose down. Both wearing 16s, the Ryobi feels nose-heavy, which is odd for a saw that weighs so little.

I don't know what the Ryobi costs brand new, not reconditioned, but the Wild Thing is $159 from Northern Tool, so I suspect $119 is a reconditioned price also. Google says you can get a recon WT for $99. If you want one, that is. The question was how the Ryobi cuts compared to a WildThing. I'd expect not any worse. It seems really, really strange to talk about quality when comparing $100 saws, but the WildThing would have to give the Ryobi a really comprehensive beating in the wood to make it a better purchase.

Jack


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## HimWill (Jun 4, 2009)

HH,I know what you mean about not wanting to like these saws.When I got them it was a cheap ($99 delivered) way to deal with a terrible mess.The ice storm I was referring to knocked out Western Kentucky and Northwest Tennessee.Some power outages lasted nearly three weeks.Not a new saw to be found,no electricity to run a cash register or even open the automatic doors to the store.People were driving 125 miles round-trip to buy kerosene and milk down here.Wigglesworth and Fish can add to this if they want.
Bought 6 of the Ryobis,worked them over quickly(muffler and fuel lines) and loaned them out to neighbors and friends.No failures,no real saw problems but several tune ups as they broke in,replaced two sparkplugs.The plugs are kind of an odd-ball around here,but Calvin stocks them.
The little guys just seem to grow on you,and one day you decide they are a real saw after all.If you know beforehand what their quirks are and take care of them,they are a pleasant surprise.


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## 04ultra (Jun 5, 2009)

Brad you need to start pimping the Poulan Wildthingy .........Husqvarna needs help with sales..............










.


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## howellhandmade (Jun 5, 2009)

HimWill said:


> HH,I know what you mean about not wanting to like these saws.
> SNIP
> The little guys just seem to grow on you,and one day you decide they are a real saw after all.If you know beforehand what their quirks are and take care of them,they are a pleasant surprise.



A surprise, yes. I'm often surprised at what you get for $100 from China. I needed a quick change toolpost for a lathe but didn't have $500 for an Aloris. I bought a $100 knockoff and can't find a single darned thing to complain about it other than a relative slight lack of beauty. It concerns me that it is impossible to pay a little more for a functional product and support our own manufacturing base. As you did with the storm cleanup, I had a specific need and no viable alternative. 

Brad's photos and the experience of several of us indicate that the Ryobi is a real saw. It's not a piece of junk; it's got good castings, real internals, and respectable power. 

Sigh.

Jack


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## HimWill (Jun 5, 2009)

The only positive thing about it is the fact that it wasn't designed by the Chinese.So far their manufacturing is "monkey see monkey do", copy a successful product.Even the owners manual was coherent, now that is disturbing.The manuals are usually good for a few laughs.


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## wigglesworth (Jun 5, 2009)

> The ice storm I was referring to knocked out Western Kentucky and Northwest Tennessee.Some power outages lasted nearly three weeks.Not a new saw to be found,no electricity to run a cash register or even open the automatic doors to the store.People were driving 125 miles round-trip to buy kerosene and milk down here.Wigglesworth and Fish can add to this if they want.



That was the crappiest few weeks of my life. A 20 min drive from work took 3 hours due to trees down over the roads. I had a saw, but the first time I got out of the truck to cut one out of the way, a big old oak fell about 20 foot in front of me. Needless to say, I got back in the truck and looked for an alternate route. But, one good thing was, I heat with wood!! The house stayed warm. But back on subjuct, I do want one of those Ryobi's. You cant get another mag case saw for that money.


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## HimWill (Jun 5, 2009)

Some of you have mentioned the small oil fill hole on these saws.I posted a solution to "hitting that little hole" a couple of months back.It's an on/off cap actually made for antifreeze jugs,just so happens it fits gallon bar oil jugs too.Advance Auto was closing them out at $0.99,probably still some out there.They are also at Tractor Supply for around $2.It's worth the effort to hunt one(or more) up.You'll never make a "big" mess again.
(These aren't the only saws with "dinky" oil holes,Poulan S25 comes to mind.)Here's a picture of the cap:






Its full name is in my sig,thought some inquiring minds would look into it and discover it and what it's good for,maybe someone did.

And the best part is..............Made in U.S.A................................Don't see that much anymore.


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## striperswaper (Jun 5, 2009)

yeah being the geek that I am, I confess I looked it up and said WTF?
didn't make the connection cuz my saws have big holes, good idea though will keep an eye out for one


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## Taxmantoo (Jun 5, 2009)

HimWill said:


> I ordered a couple more last week,they're that good.It makes the saw look a little "snubnosed",but looks aren't everything.



I did the same thing in January. Ordered a few of those B&C combos (price went down after I bought mine) for my little saws. They fit all low profile small Husky mount, and that's a lot of saws. On the Ryobi, you get 10 1/4" or so past the little dawgs with a brand new unstretched chain.


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## HimWill (Jun 5, 2009)

In the interest of fairness,they come in other colors too.(I've heard that some people have an aversion to anything orange.)


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## striperswaper (Jun 5, 2009)

color coordinating oil caps goes far beyond CAD, maybe just a tad anal?
you could have serious problems my friend
BTW, do they come in Homelite blue?


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## HimWill (Jun 5, 2009)

I've had the orange one for about 6 yrs.The others were from the $0.99 closeout.I'm really not into color coordinating.(Couldn't find a Homelite red or blue.)The yellow ones(most common color) do look good with a Mac though.


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## blsnelling (Jun 5, 2009)

That yellow one will match *The Toy Thing*.


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## mustard (Jun 23, 2009)

*sears /ryobi /redmax*

Is this saw at Sears.com - model # 36218 - item # 07136218000 the same saw used in this discussion - redmax gz 400 / 4000 ?
Thanks


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## HimWill (Jun 23, 2009)

mustard said:


> Is this saw at Sears.com - model # 36218 - item # 07136218000 the same saw used in this discussion - redmax gz 400 / 4000 ?
> Thanks



Well, yes and no.The Sears model is made in Japan(should be higher quality I would think) and the Ryobi is made (assembled) in China,with some parts made in Japan.The line between them is kind of blurry.


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## mustard (Jun 23, 2009)

*searsm/ ryobi*

Yes, but we are still talking about the same engine and basically the same saw body between the ryobi and the sears professional? 
The main difference may be quality?
Thanks


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## HimWill (Jun 23, 2009)

In the Ryobi,the general opinion is that the engine and chassis are made in Japan,the plastic parts and assembly of the saw in China.
The Craftsman seems to come from Japan.
(I guess that makes sense.)


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## Taxmantoo (Jun 23, 2009)

mustard said:


> Is this saw at Sears.com - model # 36218 - item # 07136218000 the same saw used in this discussion - redmax gz 400 / 4000 ?
> Thanks



If that's the $369 "Professional" model, rumor has it that it's a GZ4000, while the Ryobi (which was $179 at Home Despot) is a GZ400. On the Redmax site 400 and 4000 have the same specs, but Redmax gives the 4000 a longer warranty and seems to market it as more of a pro saw. If I ever found the Craftsman Pro for $99 I'd buy five.


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## HimWill (Jun 23, 2009)

Here is a link to the Craftsman he's talking about.From the picture they are the same(note the different chain adjuster on the bar,the adjuster hole as used on the Ryobi is there too but not used).

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...word=#+07136218000&sLevel=0#descriptionAnchor

If you hit the link and "mouse over" the picture you can clearly read "Japan" on the brake handle.This is not found on the Ryobi brake handle.


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## mustard (Jun 24, 2009)

*sears/ryobi*

If anyone out there has the Craftsman Pro we are taking about, do you need the special tool/driver to adjust the carb screws/
Thanks for all the info!!!!!!!!!!!


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## fredmc (Jun 24, 2009)

mustard said:


> If anyone out there has the Craftsman Pro we are taking about, do you need the special tool/driver to adjust the carb screws/
> Thanks for all the info!!!!!!!!!!!



Who needs the tool? just dremel screwdriver slots into the H & L screws


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## blsnelling (Jun 24, 2009)

fredmc said:


> Who needs the tool? just dremel screwdriver slots into the H & L screws



That's what I did.


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## Motodeficient (Jun 24, 2009)

Same here ^^


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## cmarti (Jun 25, 2009)

fredmc said:


> Who needs the tool? just dremel screwdriver slots into the H & L screws



I have as well, but every friend, neighbor or co worker drives their equipment out to my barn to drink beer and hide from their wives while I try to get their neglected two cylce working. Sometimes it is just easier to tweak the carb than dismantle it. So I bought all the tools on ebay.


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## mustard (Jul 2, 2009)

*redmax gz 4500*

Brad - where are you at with the gz4500 project?


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## blsnelling (Jul 2, 2009)

I don't have any plans for one right now. I'll just use this 3500T for now.


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## jra1100 (Jul 3, 2009)

D(*(^^& you Brad et al, now you have made me go and spend another 110 bucks for another saw. Seriously if this thing is half the saw that you guys say, it should be great. Actually this one is for a friend of mine. Just before I joined AS I bought a refurb Poulan 4218 on ebay for 79 bucks. I got it and it looked like new. Fired right up and wouldn't cut warm butter. Thats when I joined AS and learned about safety chain. Ground off the bars and that thing cut like crazy. I loaned it to a buddy who had some storm damage to clean up. He loves the thing and wanted me to see if I could get one for him. I had read this thread, so I talked him into the Ryobi. I told him if he didn't like it he could have the Poulan and I'd keep the Ryobi. Cant wait to see which saw I end up with. JR


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## HimWill (Jul 3, 2009)

Well jra,order your Double-D carb tool and an extra sparkplug(NGK CMR7H) from Edge and Engine and you'll be all set.
I'm sure you have everything you need to do the necessary "fixes" and mods laying around already.

(You might want to check Bailey's for item #BCC 12 EP50 (12" bar and chain combo @7.95),they work really well on these saws.)


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## ericjeeper (Aug 13, 2009)

HimWill said:


> (You might want to check Bailey's for item #BCC 12 EP50 (12" bar and chain combo @7.95),they work really well on these saws.)



Well we had the saw out yesterday doing some storm cleanup. My son ran three tanks of fuel through it using the above mentioned bar and chain setup/. This thing is a real bargain at 110 bucks.It starts easily with the primer when cold and once warm, all you need is a gentle tug on the rope. Saw is very nimble and has more than enough grunt to cut maple up to bar length. That 3/8 lopro is very nice for cutting small limbs without the grabbing action of all my other 3/8 full chisel setups.


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## blsnelling (Aug 13, 2009)

Glad to hear you're enjoying it.


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## jra1100 (Aug 13, 2009)

*Which saw*

Well I got the Ryobi a while back and put it to some wood. Man is that a saw. My buddy came over and tried them both and left with the Ryobi. I still like the Poulan, and use it a lot, but the Ryobi is a marginally better saw I think. Of course I have had the Poulan for a couple of years, and the Ryobi is brand new, and came with a real chain, not safety chain, and it cut like a demon on meth. JR


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## J.Gordon (Aug 13, 2009)

So the Ryobi takes the best bang for the buck saw, huh?


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## Vibes (Aug 17, 2009)

''My buddy came over and tried them both and left with the Ryobi.''

So now I take it that your in the market for a 7900


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## jra1100 (Aug 17, 2009)

Vibes said:


> ''My buddy came over and tried them both and left with the Ryobi.''
> 
> So now I take it that your in the market for a 7900



I already have a 6401 that I bought with the thought of upgrading it to the 7900, but the thing cuts like crazy just the way it is. My current state of mind is to just run it until something bad happens and then either go with the BB kit or 7900. It is so reliable and strong that I might have it a long time before it gets touched, if ever. JR


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## B_Turner (Aug 17, 2009)

J.Gordon said:


> So the Ryobi takes the best bang for the buck saw, huh?



I got an unused gz4000 on ebaby for $140. It's the real deal for not that much more than the knockoff. Even stock it is an eager little motor.


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## Vibes (Aug 17, 2009)

''I already have a 6401''


So, the CAD bug has bitten you. Ha Ha Ha! I'm in the same boat with extra saws. I have a 7900 that only gets used if I find something over 20'' and there is allot of it. Or maybe if I'm falling something that might be a little hairy and I want to make a super fast cut.

Allot of the scroungable wood in these parts is in the twelve inch range. Anything like that and I've been using the Ryobi. I now have an 18'', 14'' and 12'' bar for mine. 

My 2065 J-Red and my 264 Oly are my go too saws, and my 2150 J-Red has been sitting allot since I got the Ryobi. 

I'm going to keep an eye out for the Red-Max GZ or even that Craftsman Pro 42cc if I can get one on sale and parlay my Craftsman tool card for more of a discount, or one comes up on the scratch and dent table that has been returned.


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## TraditionalTool (Aug 27, 2009)

Brian_NC said:


> I've got what I guess is the Sears version of the saw, with exception the chain adjuster it looks identical, although it has made in Japan on it. The model is 358.362180. Ya'll are right on about them needing the muffler opened, mine acts like it has a muzzle on it.


Nope, 358 prefix is Poulan.


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## Taxmantoo (Aug 27, 2009)

TraditionalTool said:


> Nope, 358 prefix is Poulan.



I thought 358 prefix was the conglomerate that markets Husky/Poulan/Redmax and who knows what else.


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## TraditionalTool (Aug 27, 2009)

taxmantoo said:


> I thought 358 prefix was the conglomerate that markets Husky/Poulan/Redmax and who knows what else.


Husqvarna is 944, and Ryobi is 973, not sure that RedMax has their own, they may be with Husqvarna. Here's the prefix list, doesn't mean this is up to date.


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## RNeurath (Sep 21, 2009)

*Ryobi 10532 Porting?*



blsnelling said:


> I've got one of these little Ryobis here that several of you have mentioned for about $100. Immediately upon removing it from the box, it was obvious it was a Redmax. It looks nearly identical to my 3800, LINK. I believe this is a copy the Redmax GZ400, LINK. The only apparent difference between it and the 3800 is that it's stratofied.
> 
> Bone stock, it runs better than the 3800. The 3800 has to be muffler modded or is the most gutless saw I've ever run. Once opened up, they are very respectable and have been my favorite little saw.
> 
> ...



Pulled the jug and the above pics(courtesy of blsnelling,thanks Brad)show pretty much what you find.The configuration of intake ports on the cylinder somewhat depicts the expression I had on my face.lol. 
The fuel intake port goes from oval to triangular and I'm guessing there is a good reason for that.The walls on the exhaust port to my best measurements are about .08" thick not counting a thin cast rim running all the way around at the surface of the cylinder wall.
I just don't see much room for fiddling here and was wondering if anyone else has done any modifications?Hey Brad,I guess that question is meant for you. Thanks,Ron


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## blsnelling (Sep 21, 2009)

I ported that same saw and posted the results earlier in this thread. It'll stomp a MS200


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## blsnelling (Sep 21, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> The verdict is in. Do not fear 2010! This baby rips and smokes my 3800. Stratofied or not, the power is there. It's 15% faster than my 3800, which is faster than a MS200T. Beat that for $110 if you can!
> 
> You'll notice in the video that the Ryobi has a rev limited ignition. Tuning is more difficult since it must be done in the wood with a load. I pulled the plug after the last heavy load cut and it looked great.
> 
> ...



Here are the results of the modding. The 3800 is first, and then the Ryobi.


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## TraditionalTool (Sep 21, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Here are the results of the modding. The 3800 is first, and then the Ryobi.


Brad,

IMO, that should be expected...the Ryobi has a larger displacement, doesn't it?


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## blsnelling (Sep 21, 2009)

TraditionalTool said:


> Brad,
> 
> IMO, that should be expected...the Ryobi has a larger displacement, doesn't it?



Not to the extent this thing runs! I consider anything in the 35-40cc class the same.


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## RNeurath (Sep 21, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I ported that same saw and posted the results earlier in this thread. It'll stomp a MS200



Brad.I was wondering if you might care to share any specifics as to the porting you did on this saw as its different than anything I've seen before. If this was in the previous thread I may have overlooked it.Thanks,Ron


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## parrisw (Sep 21, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I ported that same saw and posted the results earlier in this thread. It'll stomp a MS200



That's not really saying much though.


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## blsnelling (Sep 21, 2009)

parrisw said:


> That's not really saying much though.



It's considered the standard by which all other little saws are measured, and costs $500-$600.


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## parrisw (Sep 21, 2009)

I don't think it compares to a MS200.

Put them both in a commercial setting and run them for 2000+ hours, then see which one comes out ahead.


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## Hddnis (Sep 21, 2009)

parrisw said:


> I don't think it compares to a MS200.
> 
> Put them both in a commercial setting and run them for 2000+ hours, then see which one comes out ahead.





What about it makes you think that it won't hold up? I don't have one, but the pictures look like it's fairly well made. Just curious.

My experience with the 200 is that it won't last 2000 hrs at all. In fairness some of that is due to it being run by crews that don't pay for the saws. lol



Mr. HE


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## parrisw (Sep 21, 2009)

Hddnis said:


> What about it makes you think that it won't hold up? I don't have one, but the pictures look like it's fairly well made. Just curious.
> 
> My experience with the 200 is that it won't last 2000 hrs at all. In fairness some of that is due to it being run by crews that don't pay for the saws. lol
> 
> ...



Just my suspicion, it is what it is. Cheaper made saw.


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## Hddnis (Sep 21, 2009)

parrisw said:


> Just my suspicion, it is what it is. Cheaper made saw.




You could very well be right. I don't have one in my hands to get a "feel" for it. 

What I'm thinking here is that if the performance is close or better, and the Ryobi is half as much or less, maybe it would be worth giving a few to the crew and seeing how they last.



Mr. HE


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## parrisw (Sep 21, 2009)

Hddnis said:


> You could very well be right. I don't have one in my hands to get a "feel" for it.
> 
> What I'm thinking here is that if the performance is close or better, and the Ryobi is half as much or less, maybe it would be worth giving a few to the crew and seeing how they last.
> 
> ...



Good plan, but I don't think the plastic parts will hold up as good. Its also not a good replacement for a 200T.


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## TraditionalTool (Sep 21, 2009)

parrisw said:


> Just my suspicion, it is what it is. Cheaper made saw.


Although you are correct, and some of it is made in China, the piston/cylinder is a Zenoah made in Japan, as I recall. I suspect it will last.

I was going to get one of these, if you look back in this thread, but honestly what stopped me was the fact that it is made in China. I am just sick and tired of giving our country away to receive inferior products. For the price it looks like a good saw, just like all the other crap made in China. For folks that don't mind, to own, or have their crew using these products where the people don't give a pattootie about the quality of work they put into them, then it's probably a good saw for them. Let's just not hold our breath for the economy to recover once and for all in the U.S.


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## Motodeficient (Sep 21, 2009)

I like mine. I muffler modded it and its a fun little saw. I like carrying it on the 4 wheeler out in the woods and sometimes when cutting firewood I shut my snellerized MS361 off and bury the bar of the ryobi in some maple just for the fun of it. It doesn't complain too much. I got rid of all my other saws and now just have the MS361 and the ryobi


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## parrisw (Sep 21, 2009)

TraditionalTool said:


> Although you are correct, and some of it is made in China, the piston/cylinder is a Zenoah made in Japan, as I recall. I suspect it will last.
> 
> I was going to get one of these, if you look back in this thread, but honestly what stopped me was the fact that it is made in China. I am just sick and tired of giving our country away to receive inferior products. For the price it looks like a good saw, just like all the other crap made in China. For folks that don't mind, to own, or have their crew using these products where the people don't give a pattootie about the quality of work they put into them, then it's probably a good saw for them. Let's just not hold our breath for the economy to recover once and for all in the U.S.



Yes, I agree!! China crap pisses me off. Here is a funny, but true and SAD story, but very short. My 5 year old daughter was drawing a few weeks ago, and I looked at what she was doing, she drew a banner that said, MADE IN CHINA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Can you freaking believe that!!!!!!!!!!!


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## parrisw (Sep 21, 2009)

TraditionalTool said:


> Although you are correct, and some of it is made in China, the piston/cylinder is a Zenoah made in Japan, as I recall. I suspect it will last.
> 
> I was going to get one of these, if you look back in this thread, but honestly what stopped me was the fact that it is made in China. I am just sick and tired of giving our country away to receive inferior products. For the price it looks like a good saw, just like all the other crap made in China. For folks that don't mind, to own, or have their crew using these products where the people don't give a pattootie about the quality of work they put into them, then it's probably a good saw for them. Let's just not hold our breath for the economy to recover once and for all in the U.S.



Yes, I agree!! China crap pisses me off. Here is a funny, but true and SAD story, but very short. My 5 year old daughter was drawing a few weeks ago, and I looked at what she was doing, she drew a banner that said, MADE IN CHINA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Can you freaking believe that!!!!!!!!!!!


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## TraditionalTool (Sep 21, 2009)

parrisw said:


> Yes, I agree!! China crap pisses me off. Here is a funny, but true and SAD story, but very short. My 5 year old daughter was drawing a few weeks ago, and I looked at what she was doing, she drew a banner that said, MADE IN CHINA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Can you freaking believe that!!!!!!!!!!!


Kids...darn if they don't know how to tear our hearts out, heh? 

I am serious though, I was gonna buy one of these as it is an incredible value. I was gonna toss a carving bar on it, and it would be a fine carving saw, IMO. I decided that if I want that type of saw, I might as well pop for the extra money and get the RedMax, since it is made in Japan.

Truth be told, I found the Husky 350 for $25 and it has served a good purpose in teaching me to start learning how to port. It fits right in with my other 2 saws, a 336 (35.2cc) and a 359 (59cc). The 40cc Ryobi would have been close to the 336, not that it would be bad, I just don't have enough saws to have duplicates like that at this point. It makes more sense to have the 350.


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## B_Turner (Sep 22, 2009)

TraditionalTool said:


> Kids...darn if they don't know how to tear our hearts out, heh?
> 
> I am serious though, I was gonna buy one of these as it is an incredible value. I was gonna toss a carving bar on it, and it would be a fine carving saw, IMO. I decided that if I want that type of saw, I might as well pop for the extra money and get the RedMax, since it is made in Japan.
> 
> Truth be told, I found the Husky 350 for $25 and it has served a good purpose in teaching me to start learning how to port. It fits right in with my other 2 saws, a 336 (35.2cc) and a 359 (59cc). The 40cc Ryobi would have been close to the 336, not that it would be bad, I just don't have enough saws to have duplicates like that at this point. It makes more sense to have the 350.



My redmax 4000 is a strong little saw, but my copy is not a great carving saw as the bar is a little jumpy for detail work. Don't know how it compares to the ryobi in that regard. It is a great trim saw, and the AV hides that vibration fine in terms of the handles.

My 3800 is not quite as strong, but the motor itself is smoother across rpms and it is a great carving saw. Funny as the two saws have the same AV.

FWIW.


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## chainsaw joe (Sep 22, 2009)

My Husqvarna 142-e is a good little saw. I think it will blow the 3800 rite out of the water.


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## blsnelling (Sep 22, 2009)

The 3800 is pretty much worthless unless you mod the muffler. Most gutless saw I ever ran. With the right work though, it'll out perform a MS200.


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## B_Turner (Sep 22, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> The 3800 is pretty much worthless unless you mod the muffler. Most gutless saw I ever ran. With the right work though, it'll out perform a MS200.



My 3800 woke up a lot on it's own and actually I've gotten to like it quite a lot up to diameters of about 8 inches.

I climb with my 4000 because if I had to drop one out of the tree I would rather drop that one rather than the 3800 because I prefer the 3800 for carving.

I'm sure your mods helped it alot, though.

Also, I haven't run alot of different saws in that size range. Just those and my 339.


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## B_Turner (Sep 22, 2009)

chainsaw joe said:


> My Husqvarna 142-e is a good little saw. I think it will blow the 3800 rite out of the water.



Just looked at the specsforthe 142-e and it's rated at 2.6hp.

Looks like a nice saw, although a little heavy for 40cc. Also would prefer it had an adjustable oiler (although neither do the 3800 or 4000).


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## blsnelling (Sep 22, 2009)

B_Turner said:


> Also would prefer it had an adjustable oiler (although neither do the 3800 or 4000).



I believe you can buy an adjustable oiler for the 3800. I don't know about the 4000.


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## B_Turner (Sep 22, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I believe you can buy an adjustable oiler for the 3800. I don't know about the 4000.



I hadn't heard that, I would like to be able to dial down the oil for some carving.

The cases of both the 3800 and 4000 saws have the markings for an adjuster.

(My 3200s came with adjusters.)


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## roncoinc (Sep 22, 2009)

I think i have posted on this thread before.
i am ordering another RYOBI.
the first one with a muff mod has eliminated several saws for me..with a 16 in bar.
i dont use the ms180 anymore and keep going with the ryobi until i need the 357xp... a nice little do it all saw with adequate power that just dont want to give up.. it has no problem with 10-12 in oak,not the fastest but surprising..sometimes it's not worth going back to the truck to get a bigger saw so i keep on cutting with it..
for the price anybody that tries one will be pleased..
next one i will try porting some,dont think anybody has ported one of these unless i missed the post..
dont deny yourself one of these..i found them very well made and NOT the typical chinese junk stuff.


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## AUSSIE1 (Sep 22, 2009)

What's the difference between the 10532 and the RCS4046c if any?


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## HimWill (Sep 23, 2009)

Just looking at the photos of both,I would say they are the same saw.


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## cmarti (Oct 5, 2009)

FWIW, a couple hours work on a small walnut and sycamore blown down over the fence row. 4 fill ups and chain switch. The modded Ryobi ran well. No cuts bigger than 12-14", most were 4"-8". . I will stay out of the better saw debates, but this thing has been worth the $99. The ease of starting makes me happy. 20 minute run time per tank seems short?


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## roncoinc (Oct 6, 2009)

Yesterday i helped somebody with a 20in oak..
he was using an old 35cc stihl to limb with,i let him try my muff moded ryobi with a 16in b&c on it,,he didnt pick up his stihl again 
used it well into 14 in oak and loved it !!
finally got off the pot last nite and ordered another,best price was $113 delivered..this one WILL get at least an exhaust port job added to it along with muff mod..



> 20 minute run time per tank seems short?



i guess it depends on how hard you are pushing it....seems like i get more than that... i changed fuel line to more flexable and weighted the filter to make sure it sinks to the bottom..

i never did try it with the 18in b&c that came with it,,will have to on the next one just to see what it can do..


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## Vibes (Oct 6, 2009)

I had the 18 inch bar on mine the last time I ran it. I usually run the 14 but the chain was dull and I didn't feel like filing. It runs it just fine. I pitched the stock chain for the LP of course. I wouldn't bury it in 16in oak allot but it does keep me from having to bend over as much.


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## mustard (Oct 12, 2009)

*fuel line problems*

Hi Gang
My Ryobi has a normal length fuel line and a weighted filter in the tank. HOWEVER, the problem is the fuel line is SO stiff that the filter wants to sit right at the filler cap mouth.
This makes it impossible to run the saw on the side except for a few minutes when the tank is right full.
It looks like the only solution is to change the fuel line to a softer more flexible one. This looks like a bear to do.
SUGGESTIONS !!!
Thanks


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## rms61moparman (Oct 12, 2009)

Pull it out the filler hole and cut an inch of it off.
Run gas with ethanol in your mix, it'll soften up soon enough!


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## mustard (Oct 12, 2009)

I do not think I have an inch to spare on it as it just barely makes it out enough to change the filter now.
Most of our gas here is not blended with ethanol and I try to stay away from it


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## roncoinc (Oct 12, 2009)

> mustard fuel line problems
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Hi Gang
> ...



I got my second new one two days ago..
did the carb mod and the fuel line mod..
i took pix also..
all you want to know about the carb and fuel line i have done twice and have pix of the procedure..i was going to wait untill i did the muffler mod with pix also but may make two diff posts for it..
now i think it should take two posts to cover both..
i should have the carb and fuel line stuff up within two days..the muff mod maybe 3 or 4 days..
I dont "think" these come with a weighted filter at all..on my first one i got another filter out of an old saw to replace it..on the second i found an old small homelite oil tank filter is REALLY heavy and after cleaning the bar oil off it was perfect !!. i used stihl string trimmer fuel line ( tygon ) and re-routing of fuel line and a spring from the hardware store for a total cost of $3 fixed everything..with the fuel line fix and the carb mod for tuning and the muff mod this little saw is one of my favorites now !!
one of the tools needed is a pair of 6 or 7 inch hemostats to make it easy..
total time for carb mod and fuel line is about 2 hours..


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## trent2 (Oct 29, 2009)

To roncoinc, can't wait to see the mods. I'm interested in what you did with the carb.
Thanks to this thread, I just bought a Ryobi myself.
For anyone who maybe interested, you can find a new one here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320439734530&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
The guy has 8 left as of right now for $114.95 plus shipping, which for me was $15.49.
HD shows the rebuilt ones as out of stock and CPORyobi has them for $129.99 so for 45 cents more, the case that comes with it was well worth buying a new one.
Keep up the great work guys, sure am glad I found this site.


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## roncoinc (Oct 29, 2009)

> trent2 To roncoinc, can't wait to see the mods. I'm interested in what you did with the carb.
> Thanks to this thread, I just bought a Ryobi myself.
> For anyone who maybe interested, you can find a new one here:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320439734530&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
> ...



If you search under my user name you will find i posted the muffler mod pix..
if you have a hard time finding them let me know..


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## roncoinc (Oct 29, 2009)

more pix


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## roncoinc (Oct 29, 2009)

forgot one.


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## roncoinc (Oct 29, 2009)

try here for one.
$99 delivered..
http://www.toolsnow.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=ryobi+chainsaw


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## roncoinc (Oct 29, 2009)

Oh yeh,,a vidio of a modded ryobi in 12 inch red oak..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xXIzr2na84


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## trent2 (Oct 29, 2009)

I followed this post all the way through and others, but didn't see all of these pics before. I missed them some how. Thanks for the pics. That was the info I was looking for. That was a great help.
I just wish I had learned about the place selling them for $99 before. 
Oh well, like I said before, I wanted the case any way.
Thanks again.


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## mustard (Nov 7, 2009)

Roncoinc
Thanks for [posting the pics.
What is the trick to replacing the fuel line? I saw the pic with the spring going out and in the cases for what??

How much more zip do you think you got with just the exhaust port mod?
Thanks


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## roncoinc (Nov 7, 2009)

> mustard Roncoinc
> Thanks for [posting the pics.
> What is the trick to replacing the fuel line? I saw the pic with the spring going out and in the cases for what??
> 
> ...



I used tygon yellow fuel line for a string trimmer,VERY supple..pull the carb and line is easy to replace,cut end on an angle to feed it thru..
where it goes thru first layer of plastic i enlaged the hole on the first saw..have to be carefull about kinks in it,that why on second saw i re-routed the line as in the pix and covered it with a spring for protection,works nice and a smoother bend in line...all of that is VERY easy to do and takes no time,get plenty of line as it is cheap then cut off excess...
i feel like after the muffler mod and exhaust port mod and a 16in bar and full chisel chain it felt like %50 improvement !!
any questions pm me.
have fun.


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## HarleyScooter (Nov 8, 2009)

roncoinc said:


> try here for one.
> $99 delivered..
> http://www.toolsnow.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=ryobi+chainsaw



I looked up your link. It was $99.99 plus $7.00 tax plus $18.04 shipping Still not bad at $125.03.


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## roncoinc (Nov 9, 2009)

> Quote:
> Originally Posted by roncoinc
> try here for one.
> $99 delivered..
> ...



Wow !,,they even changed the webpage..
right in the add used to say free shipping,no more !
no tax to ship to my state..


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## sbhooper (Nov 9, 2009)

If these things need repairs, where do you get the parts?


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## HimWill (Nov 9, 2009)

For parts,try Edge and Engine first.I think they have some on hand.They have the carb tool(Double_D) and sparkplugs.If you order from EReplacements,there is about a 2 week delivery time.Here's a link to the parts list:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ryobi-ry10532-40cc-chainsaw-parts-c-7931_8088_15646.html


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## HarleyScooter (Nov 9, 2009)

roncoinc said:


> Wow !,,they even changed the webpage..
> right in the add used to say free shipping,no more !
> no tax to ship to my state..



Just my luck, A day late and $25 short?


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## Taxmantoo (Nov 9, 2009)

HarleyScooter said:


> Just my luck, A day late and $25 short?



I got two new ones off fleabay last month, something like $115 each plus shipping. Came out less than $260 total with the plastic sawboxes that my $100 refurb didn't come with.

Toolsnow is selling on Amazon for $99.99 plus $13.02 shipping, looks like the best you can do today. Seems like CPO Ryobi had them for $89.99 with free freight a year ago, now it's $129.99 (I paid $99.99 in January).


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## Evanrude (Nov 9, 2009)

*Thought I'd give the Ryobi another shot...*

...after seeing these threads all summer about how great it is. I dug mine out of the cluttered mess in my 10x10 shed and brought it up to the work bench in the garage Saturday night. I hated this saw before. This is why I bought a 361, which was my first real saw. I had it for a couple years before joining AS. I didnt know a whole lot about carb tuning, muffler mods 'n such back then. So in the last couple days I've fixed the fuel line issue, opened up the muffler and ordered a carb tool from Edge and Engine. I checked the piston from both ends and it looks like new. I only opened up the muffler to 3/8" for now until the tool comes. Already seeing a positive difference. The L adjustment is set so dang rich from the factory that I couldnt even keep it running before. Its still a little rich actually, lots of four stroking going on WFO, and still dying out randomly in a cut. But, much better already. I even added the little bugger to my sig line, which I was ashamed to do that when I first came on AS. It is easy to handle due to the fact its lighter than my 260P and smaller bodied. So when my tool comes, the exhaust is going to 1/2". I'll finally be able to adjust it. I tried a few of the tricks people have suggested and those screws wouldnt budge. This saw may actually shed its name as 'dirt saw' after I get it tuned up.

I want to get a 16" bar/chain for this saw. Can someone provide me a link to baileys with the correct bar mount? Thanks!


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## roncoinc (Nov 9, 2009)

> So when my tool comes, the exhaust is going to 1/2". I'll finally be able to adjust it. I tried a few of the tricks people have suggested and those screws wouldnt budge. This saw may actually shed its name as 'dirt saw' after I get it tuned up.
> 
> I want to get a 16" bar/chain for this saw. Can someone provide me a link to baileys with the correct bar mount? Thanks!



For the carb screws a pair of hemostats will unscrew them,then slot em..
google "ryobi chainsaw parts "..plenty with an IPL even..

i put a 16in homelite on one and a 16in windsor on another,no idea of mount type,tried until i got a fit..had to modify windsor a bit,no big deal..
tune it the wood and you can lean on it a bit and WILL surprise you !!


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## Evanrude (Nov 9, 2009)

roncoinc said:


> For the carb screws a pair of hemostats will unscrew them,then slot em..
> google "ryobi chainsaw parts "..plenty with an IPL even..
> 
> i put a 16in homelite on one and a 16in windsor on another,no idea of mount type,tried until i got a fit..had to modify windsor a bit,no big deal..
> tune it the wood and you can lean on it a bit and WILL surprise you !!



I tried my hemostats, they're a little too bulky to get in there as they are part scissor part hemostats (keep em in my tackle box). It's not a big deal because the tool is cheap and I'm not in a big hurry. 

Do these use the same bar mount as the RedMaxx 3800 since they're pretty much identical? I can go by that model to find one on Baileys...


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## roncoinc (Nov 9, 2009)

> Do these use the same bar mount as the RedMaxx 3800 since they're pretty much identical? I can go by that model to find one on Baileys...


 i have no idea..
i just tried some untill one fit..


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## Taxmantoo (Nov 9, 2009)

Small mount Husky, 3/8 low profile if you keep the original drum/spur. 

Just tell Bailey's bar selector you've got a Husky 36, or Redmax GZ4000 (for some reason I don't see Redmax GZ400 listed there, which is what the Ryobi really is). 

I've run mine with my Husky 16" bar. I was rather surprised that the 16" Husky was only about an ounce heavier than the 12" Carlton that I've got on it now. 

http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?skw=EP50+EP43+EJ50


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## sbhooper (Nov 10, 2009)

Good thread guys. I had seen these saws at a truckload tool sale and wondered what they were like. I thought they looked fairly solid. I may have to get one to play with.


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## oldmar (Nov 11, 2009)

Just now got mine, 115 recon from Home Depot Online, plus 6.90 tax, free shipping, 121.90 total. Noticed a UPS return tag already in the box, so no issues (I expect) with a return- it looks like Amazon isn't taking these back if they're turds. Mine looks pretty good, runs great. I'm really liking how strong it pulls, given it's weight. I'm pretty used to my Dad's old 112, and this little Ryobi is a very different animal. Still gonna get a new PS-420 someday, but I had to try this thing for 120 bucks. Not unhappy at all. Now, off to read Brad's thread about modding it, and order a good B/C from Bailey's.


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## roncoinc (Nov 11, 2009)

> oldmar Just now got mine, 115 recon from Home Depot Online, plus 6.90 tax, free shipping, 121.90 total. Noticed a UPS return tag already in the box, so no issues (I expect) with a return- it looks like Amazon isn't taking these back if they're turds. Mine looks pretty good, runs great. I'm really liking how strong it pulls, given it's weight. I'm pretty used to my Dad's old 112, and this little Ryobi is a very different animal. Still gonna get a new PS-420 someday, but I had to try this thing for 120 bucks. Not unhappy at all. Now, off to read Brad's thread about modding it, and order a good B/C from Bailey's.



Thats how i got started on mine,reading what Mr.Snelling had done.
good pix on this thread also if you missed them..


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## 2manytoys4me (Nov 11, 2009)

i think the stock bar is fine, just needs a 91vx chain


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## roncoinc (Nov 11, 2009)

> 2manytoys4me i think the stock bar is fine, just needs a 91vx chain



I tried it both ways..
16in made another new saw


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## robfromaz1977 (Nov 13, 2009)

Just got me one of these at one of those truckload sales for $99.99 plus tax. Came to $109.09 total. Bought it for the kids to learn on should be just right. Almost bought a Wild Thing a few months back for the same purpose. Glad I waited and found this site. I think this saw will do better than the Wild Thing.


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## oldmar (Nov 13, 2009)

I did a bit of cutting today with the Ryobi, and it's a good limbing and bucking saw for smaller stuff. The stock bar works good for me while limbing, I'm tall. I had occasion to borecut while felling a leaner, and the stock bar & chain bore for crap, no surprise. Never mind using the saw upside down so it doesn't starve for fuel. I'll have to get about that fuel line mod presently. This is an awfully decent little saw for a hundred-ish beans. Carb tool is on it's way, muff mod soon.


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## mustard (Dec 4, 2009)

I have started a new thread called - porting the ryobi 10532 -
I thought that the excellent discussion on Ryobi basics here would get to convoluted with porting discussions, am I wrong?
Is it better to keep it in this thread?
Thanks


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## danl (Dec 6, 2009)

I hope the weight on this thread is right instead of Home Depots listed weight,
They have it down as 18 pounds assembled....

I ordered two of them yesterday, I wanted to get my son-in-law a saw for Christmas but my wife had already taken care of his presents.

So I told my daughter she should buy him one and I would order it for her, well I got online and found free shipping and couldn't help myself.. I ordered me one too.

My wife just bought me a Dolmar 5100 a month ago, she thinks I've totaly lost my mind. Actually it was almost two months ago.


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## BeansBaxter (Dec 8, 2009)

So I need an opinion from you guys. I have an Echo CS-400 that I bought last year after the ice store up here in New England. I'm relatively happy with the saw and haven't done anything other than take the exhaust deflector and screen off and richen the mix as far as the limiters will allow. With the 5 year warranty in place, I've avoided making any permanent changes.

I started lurking on this forum around the time I purchased the saw and this Ryobi/RedMax saw has intrigued me. I'm wondering whether it's worth the effort to sell my CS-400 and buy the 10532. If I didn't have a saw, there'd be no question in my mind that the Ryobi is the way to go but since I already have the Echo, it becomes a different situation.


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## howellhandmade (Dec 8, 2009)

BeansBaxter said:


> So I need an opinion from you guys. I have an Echo CS-400 that I bought last year after the ice store up here in New England. I'm relatively happy with the saw and haven't done anything other than take the exhaust deflector and screen off and richen the mix as far as the limiters will allow. With the 5 year warranty in place, I've avoided making any permanent changes.
> 
> I started lurking on this forum around the time I purchased the saw and this Ryobi/RedMax saw has intrigued me. I'm wondering whether it's worth the effort to sell my CS-400 and buy the 10532. If I didn't have a saw, there'd be no question in my mind that the Ryobi is the way to go but since I already have the Echo, it becomes a different situation.



It's part of the charm of the Ryobi that you shouldn't HAVE to sell another saw to get it. Just sell your plasma. 

Jack


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## 7sleeper (Dec 8, 2009)

BeansBaxter said:


> So I need an opinion from you guys. I have an Echo CS-400 that I bought last year after the ice store up here in New England. I'm relatively happy with the saw and haven't done anything other than take the exhaust deflector and screen off and richen the mix as far as the limiters will allow. With the 5 year warranty in place, I've avoided making any permanent changes.
> 
> I started lurking on this forum around the time I purchased the saw and this Ryobi/RedMax saw has intrigued me. I'm wondering whether it's worth the effort to sell my CS-400 and buy the 10532. If I didn't have a saw, there'd be no question in my mind that the Ryobi is the way to go but since I already have the Echo, it becomes a different situation.



I donot believe that you will notice a very big change in power. As Cliff (a AS member) always says his Echo saws are great as soon as he retunes them with muffler mod and carb modification(the same as required on the Ryobi). The gains will be marginal. It is a simple theoreticle thinking of mine but we are talking about gaining a few seconds in a cut. I have oftened mentioned it but we spend more time stacking and splitting. 
If you want to try out the mod just buy a new muffler and mod it.

So stay safe and happy. 

7


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## oldmar (Dec 8, 2009)

My feeling is that the RyobiMax isn't a saw that you should finance through the sale of another good saw. For the hundred or so that you spend on it, it's an awesome backup or second or loaner. For that matter, keep it in the truck during storm season. I bought mine so I could push off my new PS420 a little longer. When I say "my new PS420" I mean the PS420 that may or may not be at the dealer if I ever get around to getting around to it.


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## rms61moparman (Dec 8, 2009)

BeansBaxter said:


> So I need an opinion from you guys. I have an Echo CS-400 that I bought last year after the ice store up here in New England. I'm relatively happy with the saw and haven't done anything other than take the exhaust deflector and screen off and richen the mix as far as the limiters will allow. With the 5 year warranty in place, I've avoided making any permanent changes.
> 
> I started lurking on this forum around the time I purchased the saw and this Ryobi/RedMax saw has intrigued me. I'm wondering whether it's worth the effort to sell my CS-400 and buy the 10532. If I didn't have a saw, there'd be no question in my mind that the Ryobi is the way to go but since I already have the Echo, it becomes a different situation.




My opinion is NO!

The Ryobi is a fine little saw, but the Echo will do anything the Ryobi will and you already own the Echo.

You will likely not recoup your full purchase price (DUH!) on the sale of the Echo, and then you will turn around and buy another saw that you won't be able to sell for what you give for it.

If you were doing a LOT of sawing in the small stuff the Ryobi would be a real nice addition or, if you were going up to a larger saw, the situation could be different.


Mike


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## roncoinc (Dec 8, 2009)

> My opinion is NO!
> 
> The Ryobi is a fine little saw, but the Echo will do anything the Ryobi will and you already own the Echo.
> 
> ...



OR,,i want a saw for less than $100 delivered to your door to play with,mod,etc.. it' worth getting one as an addition.


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## mustard (Dec 12, 2009)

anyone figured out a way to slow down the chain oiler on the ryobi.
mine oils excessivley for my work, cutting green pine , fir and larch.
Since i have to pack both gas and oil if i can cut down a little on oil usage it makes a lighter load!
I thought of pinching the line slightly smaller in the tank???

Perhaps the gz 4000 redmax has an adjustable oiler that can be put on the ryobi?
Thanks


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## roncoinc (Dec 12, 2009)

> mustard anyone figured out a way to slow down the chain oiler on the ryobi.
> mine oils excessivley for my work, cutting green pine , fir and larch.
> Since i have to pack both gas and oil if i can cut down a little on oil usage it makes a lighter load!
> I thought of pinching the line slightly smaller in the tank???



pack a lighter lunch,carry more oil..be glad it works well.


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## FATGUY (Dec 13, 2009)

mustard said:


> anyone figured out a way to slow down the chain oiler on the ryobi.
> mine oils excessivley for my work, cutting green pine , fir and larch.
> Since i have to pack both gas and oil if i can cut down a little on oil usage it makes a lighter load!
> I thought of pinching the line slightly smaller in the tank???
> ...



I thought the saw had an adjustable oiler....


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## roncoinc (Dec 13, 2009)

> I thought the saw had an adjustable oiler....



Dont show it in the owners manual..
never gave it a thought before to look..my two oil just right for me..
next time i pick one up i will see if anything can be done.
just to durned COLD to be playin in the shed even with heat.


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## mustard (Dec 13, 2009)

You are right about the cold,
I just put my ported ryobi back together but will wait till it warms to go do some tuning and cutting with it.
I like a big lunch? Or am I out to lunch?
Season's Greetings from BC !!


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## ondarvr (Dec 14, 2009)

roncoinc said:


> Wow !,,they even changed the webpage..
> right in the add used to say free shipping,no more !
> no tax to ship to my state..



Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by roncoinc 
try here for one.
$99 delivered..
http://www.toolsnow.com/catalogsearc...ryobi+chainsaw 

I looked up your link. It was $99.99 plus $7.00 tax plus $18.04 shipping Still not bad at $125.03. 

Wow !,,they even changed the webpage..
right in the add used to say free shipping,no more !
no tax to ship to my state.. 

-----------------
I went to that site last night and ordered one for $99.99 + tax $8.00 and free shipping.


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## spacemule (Dec 19, 2009)

Don't know how many of you are in the Fayetteville area, but I saw two reconditioned/used Ryobis today for $89.99. They were green tagged, meaning that is a price for the specific saw and is not a normal price.


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## ondarvr (Dec 21, 2009)

I ordered my saw last week on Sunday and it arrived today.

It was clean on the outside with no scuffs, scars or signs of wear, the bar did have a couple of marks, but looked like it made only one or two cuts.

Took the air cleaner cover off and there was a very slight amount of fine wood dust, but still clean.

Added some gas and oil, pumped the bulb and it fired on the second pull, ran for a few seconds then stopped. Pulled a few more times and could only get it pop and then nothing, so I thought it had flooded like some of the other posts noted. I waited about an hour and tried to start it again and nothing, then I noticed the primer bulb didn't feel right, so this time I poured a few drops of fuel into the carb and it fired right up, then died. As long as I worked the choke and pumped the bulb, I could sort of keep it running, then I noticed gas dripping off the handle.

Must be a leak in the tank or fuel line in area I can't see without taking it apart, its sucking air and leaking.

Now I need to read the fine print on how to return it.


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## dante2 (Dec 23, 2009)

Ondarvr remove the filter cover and look at the back of the primer bulb. Sounds like one of the hoses has come loose or off. I have a Mac that has a primer bulb on it and the hoses are very hard to keep on. Primer bulbs on saws suck. Hey guys is there a way to get rid of the primer bulb on this saw?


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## ondarvr (Dec 23, 2009)

Thanks

I suspected a leaking hose or cracked fitting, but for warranty purposes I didn't want to touch it just incase it was something bigger that might cost money to fix, if it didn't have a warranty I would have pulled it apart right away. Its at a local Ryobi warranty repair shop right now, I might get a call today with information on what the problem is.


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## andym (Dec 30, 2009)

*more ryobis*

I just ordered my 10532. Is there a guide posted to moding this saw to wake it up? I'd start with an exhaust mod then maybe move onto porting.


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## danl (Dec 30, 2009)

Got my Ryobi the other day. The first thing I did was open the fuel cap and sure enough the filter was up against the cap. Actually tried to poke out when I took it off. I cut off as much fuel line as I could.

It started right up but was idleing extremely fast, almost fast enough to make a cut. The idle screw was turned way in. Got that fixed and it cuts very well, I need to adjust the carb though it is running pretty rich.

I know this had been posted a bunch, but in order to adjust the carb without grinding slots, all I need is a double d carb tool, right?????

Also the chainbrake doesn't work, book says to take it to a repair center, there isn't one around here. Shouldn't be much to it though should threre?

The handle flips forward, it just doesn't engage the band to the clutch, I don't the band is moving at all.


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## roncoinc (Dec 30, 2009)

andym said:


> I just ordered my 10532. Is there a guide posted to moding this saw to wake it up? I'd start with an exhaust mod then maybe move onto porting.



About everything you need to know is in this thread including pictures of the muffler mod and exhaust porting.



> Also the chainbrake doesn't work, book says to take it to a repair center, there isn't one around here. Shouldn't be much to it though should threre?
> 
> The handle flips forward, it just doesn't engage the band to the clutch, I don't the band is moving at all.


take the side cover off and have a look.. you should have got a booklet with it that shows the parts,probly just something unhooked.


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## danl (Dec 31, 2009)

Took the chain brake apart, nothing looks unhooked. It appears the band is not sliding forward when the brake is engaged. 

The long spring is buckled up under tension, has anyone else looked at theirs?

I may need to grind some off of the plastic doohickey the band is attached to, it looks like it is hitting on the housing.


Also as seems normal. the clutch is rubbing on the cover. Would putting a couple of washers on the bar bolts be a fix?


Or would that mess up the oiler?
I didn't see anyone's fix on here for that.


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## roncoinc (Dec 31, 2009)

danl said:


> Took the chain brake apart, nothing looks unhooked. It appears the band is not sliding forward when the brake is engaged.
> 
> The long spring is buckled up under tension, has anyone else looked at theirs?
> 
> ...





I just ground off a ( very ) little plastic where it was rubbing..then a felt marker over it and ran it to see if it still rubbed,it didnt.


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## danl (Jan 1, 2010)

The saw is dangerous or maybe I'm dangerous to myself.

I took the chain brake band off and it seemed to be glued to the housing, wouldn't budge. Got that cleaned off and it will move back and forth now.

I was trying to compress the band spring back in place and my screwdriver slipped and I managed to stab myself, not once but twice in the hand.
I have never been able to accomplish that before.

Not sure where the spring ended up, I sort of lost interest in it, with the blood dripping and all.


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## HimWill (Jan 2, 2010)

danl said:


> Took the chain brake apart, nothing looks unhooked. It appears the band is not sliding forward when the brake is engaged.
> 
> The long spring is buckled up under tension, has anyone else looked at theirs?
> 
> ...



The "neat way" to add a little clearance to the cover is to buy an extra outside bar plate and double up.The "double-D" carb tool (about $3 or so)is found at Edge and Engine.They can get the bar plates too,something less than $2 as I remember.They also stock the "odd-ball" sparkplugs in NGK brand.


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## Tim S. (Jan 2, 2010)

If you do a muffler mod without gutting the muffler how would you get the metal shavings out


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## rms61moparman (Jan 2, 2010)

Just keep shaking and turning till it stops sounding like a pepper shaker.

Kinda like getting a pick out when you drop it in your guitar.LOL

Mike


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## Torin (Jan 3, 2010)

I did the muff mod per roncoinc's post, on mine today. It seems better off idle & more grunt in the cut. Many thanks to all who posted in this thread.:yourock: 
Mine was lightly used for $85 w/ case only 5 milles from my house. I think its a sweet deal.


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## ondarvr (Jan 7, 2010)

Update

The Ryobi repair shop called today and said the saw is toast, there's so much scoring inside that it needs a complete rebuild, which is around $250 in parts, then add labor, plus repair the original problem of the air/fuel leak.

Ryobi is supposed to send them the info on how to get a replacement saw (not sure how long that will take). 

I'm glad I didn't start to take it apart myself, if I had I'm sure nothing would be covered.


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## roncoinc (Jan 7, 2010)

ondarvr said:


> Update
> 
> The Ryobi repair shop called today and said the saw is toast, there's so much scoring inside that it needs a complete rebuild, which is around $250 in parts, then add labor, plus repair the original problem of the air/fuel leak.
> 
> ...



First i have heard of that problem !!
good thing you didnt take it apart then..
thats what warranties are for.
i hope it all works out..


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## ondarvr (Jan 7, 2010)

I talked with the shop again and they said the problem was that the upper air filter is missing and it had been run without it. I didn't even think about there being two air filters.

I did go back to the first pic's in this thread and could see the need for two, one feeds the carb and the other one is for the transfer port inlet.

It doesn't sound like they did much to "factory recondition" it, missing air filter, leaking fuel lines, air leak and a severely scored piston and cylinder.

Sounds like this saw was thrown in the wrong pile.

I'm not saying they're all like this, this one may just have slipped through, but......


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## Torin (Jan 7, 2010)

Check out #s 11 & 12. I think there is only 1 air cleaner, split into two halves.
Sounds like you got a lemon. Check out craigslist, they are on there from time to time. originals too, with the case.


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## ondarvr (Jan 7, 2010)

You're correct the pick only shows one, but it is two pieces, maybe he meant that half of it was missing.


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## Torin (Jan 7, 2010)

If you can find a used, non-recon one for <$100 w/ case, check it out. They're out there & I'll bet you will like it.


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## ondarvr (Jan 7, 2010)

I've seen them on CL at that price, but it was after I ordered this one. The problem is they may come with the same issues and no warranty. I'll take a one year warranty every time if I have the option, its a key feature this time.


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## davec (Jan 21, 2010)

Yes I am new to mods...I replaced the fuel line with more flexible stuff and weighted the filter, though mine already had some weight built into it. The muffler is next, but I am a bit puzzled.

Thanks to Roncoinc for the above images earlier in this thread.

I measured the exhaust port on the head at about a 0.9"x0.6" ellipse, roughly. This means it has an area of 0.424 sq in. I keep seeing the rule of thumb on AS that the muffler opening should be about 70% of the exhaust port area so that means the exhaust port area should be about 0.3 sq in. Working that backwards, that seems to mean that the muffler port should be about 0.62" dia. The opening in there is right about half that size. There are 2 smaller holes in the baffle feeding the muffler exit port that are less than .25" dia (too inaccessible to measure), which means they are smaller than the existing exit port in total. 

Drilling through the outer front shell and the baffle as shown would open this up a lot, but is that possibly bad being that the 2 holes are directly in line? You obviously need some backpressure, I guess. The baffle needs to be opened also, fer sure. Would it make sense to drill out a couple holes in the baffle from the opening on the engine side?

I guess this is a more general question than just this saw, but that's what I am starting with. 

Thanks!

Dave

(BTW Roncoinc - is that a curly maple bench in the second photo? Looks nice!)


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## davec (Jan 26, 2010)

taxmantoo said:


> Small mount Husky, 3/8 low profile if you keep the original drum/spur.
> 
> Just tell Bailey's bar selector you've got a Husky 36, or Redmax GZ4000 (for some reason I don't see Redmax GZ400 listed there, which is what the Ryobi really is).
> 
> ...



I'm not sure this is correct. I picked up a 14" arbormax from Baileys #AMP 14 EJ50 (just came tonight) and the tensioner holes don't quite match up to the tensioner pin. The bar stud slot looks correct. I'm going to call Bailey's tomorrow to see if they know a better option or if I need to grind away a bit. I'm betting there is another bar that fits correctly.

Anyone have a definitive answer?? I entered it in the bar selector as Husky 36 and as Redmax GZ4000, both come up with the bar I got...

-Dave


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## howellhandmade (Jan 27, 2010)

davec said:


> I'm not sure this is correct. I picked up a 14" arbormax from Baileys #AMP 14 EJ50 (just came tonight) and the tensioner holes don't quite match up to the tensioner pin. The bar stud slot looks correct. I'm going to call Bailey's tomorrow to see if they know a better option or if I need to grind away a bit. I'm betting there is another bar that fits correctly.
> 
> Anyone have a definitive answer?? I entered it in the bar selector as Husky 36 and as Redmax GZ4000, both come up with the bar I got...
> 
> -Dave



Try it again. Make sure the tensioner pin is positioned far enough up in its travel. I bought the same bar, and when I first put it on with chain, I couldn't get it to line up, thought I'd bought the wrong bar. So I put the bar on a Poulan 2150 that donated the 16" that I'd been using on the Ryobi, and it fit but the sprocket was too worn to use with the new chain. Wait a minute . . . put the 14" back on the Ryobi and it fit fine. I felt pretty stupid, still don't know what I did. Not saying you did the same think, just that it can happen.

Jack


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## davec (Jan 27, 2010)

No dice. You can see in the pic where I marked is where the slot for the tensioner pin goes. You can see the black slot through the keyhole shaped hole in the bar (silver under it). The pin doesn't fit in the small part of the keyhole and the big part doesn't line up with where the pin sits. No amount of wiggling makes it go in.

Did Ryobi/Redmax change something?

Thanks,
Dave


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## davec (Jan 27, 2010)

I called Bailey's about it and they had no clue. Could find no reference to Ryobi or a Redmax GZ400 or anything like it. 

Anyone got an idea here?? Bueller? Bueller?

-Dave


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## Erick (Jan 30, 2010)

Dav, I posted this in your other thread but figured the info would be useful here as well.

*It's an Oregon 041 mount*.


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## ondarvr (Feb 13, 2010)

So far there has been no progress in getting the info from Ryobi to have the saw replaced. I'll need to get with the shop and see if there's a # at Ryobi I can call to stir things up a little.


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## ondarvr (Feb 26, 2010)

I called again today, the shop said they're waiting for the new engine assembly from Ryobi. I was only able to talk with the lady that answered the phone and she couldn't say whether it meant a new or reconditioned engine. I must say the people at this shop have been great to deal with.


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## danl (Mar 17, 2010)

I put a Woodland Pro chain on my Ryobi and it makes a huge difference.
So last night I drilled a couple of holes in the muffler. I drilled two 1/4" holes. Is it enough??

I suppose I need to adjust the carb now. 
which needle is the the high adj. ? 
I couldn't find it marked on the saw at all. It is probably something common sense would tell me, but I must not have any....

I bought the double d tool. 
Thanks


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## roncoinc (Mar 17, 2010)

danl said:


> I put a Woodland Pro chain on my Ryobi and it makes a huge difference.
> So last night I drilled a couple of holes in the muffler. I drilled two 1/4" holes. Is it enough??
> 
> I suppose I need to adjust the carb now.
> ...



Did you go back in this thread far enough to see the pix i put up on the muffler mod for these ? needs to be in the correct spot,you may want to look..
on all carbs the HI is closest to the choke and the LO is closest to the engine.
hope this helps.


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## Taxmantoo (Mar 17, 2010)

davec said:


> I'm not sure this is correct. I picked up a 14" arbormax from Baileys #AMP 14 EJ50 (just came tonight) and the tensioner holes don't quite match up to the tensioner pin.



My 16" Husky fits fine. The 12" Carltons I bought fit fine, Bailey's had them listed as Echo bars, EP50 in Bailey's nomenclature, but I'm surprised if the Arbormax for Husky would have a problem. 
http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?skw=ep50

Hey, is this your bar? It's listed for my Husky 36, and the Redmax pro version of the Ryobi:
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=AMP+14+EJ50&catID=


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## lmalterna (Mar 17, 2010)

My little Ryobi with 12" bar and Woodland Pro 3/8 lo pro, felled trimmed and bucked locust trees today. Trees at knee high were 12-15" across. That thing zipped through them. The right bar and chain really complement the saw.
2Door


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## davec (Mar 17, 2010)

The replacement they sent was an Oregon 041 doubleguard. Fits perfectly.


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## ondarvr (Apr 30, 2010)

I thought I would update this.

Still no saw, supposedly the service center is waiting for parts, but they have not been able to get any feed back from Ryobi on the reason for the delay. 

I have contacted Ryobi by email on this and I'm waiting for a response.

I would have done this sooner, but I actually forgot about the saw until I found the claim check from the repair shop in my wallet.

So people don't have to go back and read stuff. I bought the saw online and couldn't get it to run, it did pop a few times and maybe ran for about 10 seconds while I was working the choke, but that was it. After that fuel was running down the handle and the primer button was sucking air. I only had the saw for about 2 days before taking to a Ryobi service center.

That was in the beginning of December.


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## davec (Apr 30, 2010)

Give them a deadline. Your saw back (working) in 2 days or a new refurb or a refund. I'd go for either of the last 2 options....


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## ondarvr (May 27, 2010)

Update

After numerous calls to the Ryobi customer service center they finally contacted the repair shop with some information. Again they said they will replace the saw and the repair shop is now waiting for the correct form so it can be filled out and the have the saw shipped. This is sort of the same thing that happened before, the repair shop waiting for Ryobi to do something.

I haven’t needed to cut wood this year because we had a very mild last half of the winter and I still have more than enough for next year. This saw was just a light saw so I didn’t have to use my bigger saws all the time, much easier on the back.


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## ondarvr (Jun 21, 2010)

I stopped at the shop again to check on the status face to face, they said Ryobi was sending me a saw, then they looked at the date and it was a month ago that this was supposed to be done.

I called Ryobi again, this time the person was very helpful, they researched the incident, found all the information, said there was a form that was not filled out completely by the repair shop (the one for them to get reimbursed) and said she would handle it from there and bypass the shops mistake. She also said I should have a new saw by next Tuesday.

While this has taken almost 7 months (I still don't have a saw, so I shouldn't say 7 months yet), I can't say it’s the shop or Ryobi's fault for me not having a running saw in my hands yet. I have let this go on with no action on my part for months at a time, had I been on top of it this confusion would most likely have been handled much quicker.

I haven't needed the saw and since I only had it in my hands for a couple days (minutes actually) and never cut wood with it, I never even missed not having it in the line up.


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## Zombiechopper (Jun 21, 2010)

This kind of mess is why I have been recomending a saw like an MS170 or MS180 to folks looking for small light trimming saws. Stihls parts and dealer network is second to none in North America. You can find a dealer damn near everywhere and parts can be brought in quick if not in stock. Ryobi obviously has no dealer network, no repair expertise, no parts availability and poor customer service.


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## roncoinc (Jun 23, 2010)

Zombiechopper said:


> This kind of mess is why I have been recomending a saw like an MS170 or MS180 to folks looking for small light trimming saws. Stihls parts and dealer network is second to none in North America. You can find a dealer damn near everywhere and parts can be brought in quick if not in stock. Ryobi obviously has no dealer network, no repair expertise, no parts availability and poor customer service.



I suppose if you own a stihl you need all that..
i bought a brand new ms180 and it was the worst POS i ever tried to cut wood with.stopped taking it back to the dealer because they were so piss poor i finally gave up..chain dont oil enough ? they said thats the it's supposed to be.
chain wont stay adjusted with that POS tooless system,they said "thats the best there is".
no carb adjustments ? to bad you dont need them..
SO glad when some sucker offered me something for it.
I have TWo of the little ryobies and love them..
eats for lunch any 025,026,030,or 031 i have put them up against and at 1/3 the price !!.
to each his own i guess..


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## Zombiechopper (Jun 23, 2010)

All saws break at some point. 

Who you gonna call when you need a part? The call center that will forward you to a "certified" repair shop in your area that's never even heard of or seen one of those saws, nevermind stocking parts? 

Or maybe its so cheap its just disposable? That defeats the purpose of it being made better than the Stihl that has parts availabilty and local repair expertise


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## danl (Jun 23, 2010)

A friend of mine ordered one of these saws, it came in with no air filter and missing a bolt. He called Ryobi and they sent him the parts he needed in less than a week.

He was impressed.


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## Zombiechopper (Jun 23, 2010)

danl said:


> A friend of mine ordered one of these saws, it came in with no air filter and missing a bolt. He called Ryobi and they sent him the parts he needed in less than a week.
> 
> He was impressed.



Well that is certainly faster than 7 months. Too bad you don't know which timeline will apply to you until you try


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## ondarvr (Jun 24, 2010)

There were a few things that slowed this down that I only found out after the fact.

The repair shop had been sold, but the new owner couldn't make a go of it so the old owner took it back, that was about the time my saw was taken there.

It took a while for them to get the shop up and running again, it was in that time period the paper work on my saw was submitted by the shop to Ryobi. There was a mistake on the paper work that was submitted to Ryobi, but it had to do with the shop being reimbursed, not a problem with them approving the replacement saw. Ryobi thought the shop was going resubmit the corrected paperwork and the shop thought Ryobi was sending me the saw, so they were both waiting for the other party to do something.

When I talked with Ryobi this time they reviewed all the paperwork, found that everything was in place other than reimbursing the repair shop, so they said they would bypass the shop and send me the saw without further delay.

If that happens by next Tuesday (they said I should have the saw by then) then Ryobi will have lived up to their end of the deal.

It looks like if the shop had not been in such a state of confusion at the time the paperwork was submitted and it had been done correctly, it would have only been about two weeks until a new saw was in my hands. One week for the shop to tear the saw apart and file the paper work and one week for the saw to be shipped. 

My local Stihl dealer went out of business during this time period, can't say I liked that shop much, I guess others felt the same way.


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## ondarvr (Jul 25, 2010)

Another update

The first date for me to receive a saw came and went, I called and Ryobi said that I was never told they were sending me a saw ???? and that they still needed the form filled out by the service center. I went to the service center and they said it been faxed twice, so I called Ryobi from the shop. After 45 minutes on hold I was disconnected, it was 5:00 PM East coast time and they closed for the day, which disconnected the call.

I just got off the phone with them now. This time they said they received the fax a long time ago, but there are no saw's of the same model available and that they had been trying to get a hold of the repair center to inform them. They offered to send me a Homelite UT10580 (a real piece of junk) as an option.

The final solution (maybe I shouldn't say that yet, its only been 8 months) is they will send me the Homelite, which I don't want, but I also get to keep the Ryobi, so maybe I can fix it. This time they sent me a confirmation # of the order and shipping instructions.

I only agreed to this so I would at least have something in my hands and have this ordeal over with. I do get another 1 year warranty on the Homelite though…..great Isn’t it. I am now on a first name basis with most of the warranty people at Ryobi, I even know the shifts they work. 

I will now have two more saws that I really don’t need, one of them I don’t even want and the other one doesn’t run.

Now I just need to see if it shows up. What could go wrong?


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## Zombiechopper (Jul 25, 2010)

that sucks and is sucking worse by the minute.

Buyer beware. Stihl has the best warranty resolution, parts availablity, and dealer network bar none. I still say if you are not a mechanic buy a stihl.


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## jra1100 (Jul 25, 2010)

Hey Zombie, thanks for putting the tooth and grind illustration on your sig. I've always been sort of confused about that. I tried to rep ya, but I gotta spread first. Information is always appreciated, and your a good source. JR


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## Zombiechopper (Jul 25, 2010)

jra1100 said:


> Hey Zombie, thanks for putting the tooth and grind illustration on your sig. I've always been sort of confused about that. I tried to rep ya, but I gotta spread first. Information is always appreciated, and your a good source. JR



It's the little tidbits of info that makes life easier!


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## Taxmantoo (Jul 25, 2010)

ondarvr said:


> They offered to send me a Homelite UT10580 (a real piece of junk) as an option.



Interesting. The web site shows the MSRP as $127, which is about what I expected, but Home Depot sells it for $159.

The parts list at homelite.com doesn't show any major parts, just recoil, muffler, bar, chain, and some plastic covers and stickers. I suppose they realize it's not worth replacing a piston on a $127 saw. Does this imply that it ranks below a Wild Thing in the grand hierarchy of saws?

Do Homelite, Ryobi, and Redmax have the same ownership? If so, tell them to send you a GZ400.


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## ondarvr (Jul 25, 2010)

My plan is to fix the Ryobi myself, I raced motorcycles for many years, doing all the work on mine and then my two son's bikes, rebuilding, boring, porting, jetting, frame and suspension mods, so doing a saw isn't a problem. It will sit on the bench next to my dads old 031 that needs a new ignition system until I find the time and ambition to fix it.

The only reason I took the saw to a service center was because it was under warranty and I didn't want to do anything that would void it. Had it been off of Craig’s list or something I would have just pulled it apart right away.

The online reviews on the Homelite average about 1 star on a 1 to five scale, with 1 being the lowest.

All I wanted was a lighter low cost saw so I didn't wear myself out with my bigger saws and the Ryobi seemed like a good choice. I'm getting too old, at one time I used an 80cc Husky for everything, now I use a 2150 Poulan whenever it will do the job.


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## ondarvr (Aug 7, 2010)

Another update.

Called Ryobi again today to see where the saw was, started to get the same run around of needing papers filled out from the service center. I stopped the person in mid sentence and said it has all been done and the replacement saw was to have been shipped 2 weeks ago. Now she said there was no record of that call, that is until I gave her the date I called and order # for the new saw. She then said yes the saw was being shipped, but to the service center, not to me. I told her no, it is being sent directly to me and she said, that is not the way they do it. I had her pull up the shipping address and it is being sent directly to me, but it took them over a week to get it out the door.

I have the tracking # from FED EX now, so it should be here on the 11th.

I will end up with a supposedly running Homelite saw I don’t want, and a non running Ryobi saw.


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## ondarvr (Aug 13, 2010)

The Homelite arrived today, it was supposed to be here yesterday, but when I looked at the tracking info yesterday it said it was on the truck and out for delivery. The only problem is it was out for delivery in the wrong part of the state, about 100 miles from where I live.

The box was soaked with bar oil, so I've got a leaker, the saw was very clean so far, but I didn't take the air filter cover off.

This saw is so cheap and flimsy I'm not sure you cut with it for half a day before it would wear out or die, I do like the translucent fuel tank though, its easy to see the fuel level.

There is only one bar mount bolt and the nut is mounted in a very cheap plastic handle, the entire side cover, bar clamp and tensioner are one unit made from plastic so cheap and flimsy that I would expect toy chain saws are built better. This is probably why one of the main complaints on this saw is not being able to keep the chain on. Actually from the other comments in the online reviews a big problem is not being able to restart it after it warms up. So maybe this is how they extend its life span, you can only run it until one tank is used up or you shut it off, and then it won't restart until the next day.

It did do one thing though, it started and appeared to run OK, something the Ryobi never did. I was able to make 2 cuts in a 6" log successfully, I stopped after that, didn't want to push it too far.

I'll go to the service center and pick up the Ryobi this weekend and see what it will take to get it running.

As to the Wild Thing comment, this thing makes a Wild Thing look like a 372.


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## WagonRanch (Aug 26, 2010)

*Still available?*

After reading through this thread I decided to buy one of these little Ryobis. Did they stop making them? CPO Ryobi lists them for $129, but don't have any in stock. Home Depot doesn't list them anymore. None listed on Ebay, Craigslist has one used one 500 miles from here for $120, used. Anybody know of a current source?

Thanks!


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## WagonRanch (Aug 26, 2010)

*Sears Pro*

Well, I dropped by Sears, just to see what the Redmax/Ryobi/Craftsman Pro saw actually looked like in person and how it felt to heft. I certainly was NOT going to spend $369 plus tax for one! Well, turns out they had an "open box" one on the shelf. Marked down to $277. Still too much for a hundred dollar saw (if you can find one, that is!). The sales guy says that it's missing the case....I show him on my Droid phone that Sears has it on sale anyway for $249. He knocks another 30% off that price for no case and some more because he can't lay his hands on the wrench. So.....at $166 it's more than I wanted to spend, a lot more that you lucky folks paid for yours, but at least I could cut with it today.

Took it back to the shop and tore it apart before I put gas and oil in it.  I figured there was not much sense in running it stock if I could do the muff mod and the intake mod right off the bat. Sigh. No such luck! The carb screws defeated my best efforts to get at them! There is NO way a hemostat could grab what look like caps over the screws. I couldn't even get my surgical tweezers on 'em! The carb was "Made in China" (although the sticker on the saw says "Made in Japan". ZAMA. The "plugs" are made of alloy and are retained by small brass balls that fit into a small recess cast into the plug. There is a hole in the center and it appears that the adjustment screw itself is hidden back behind all of this. Is this what a DD driver fits? I've never seen one, so help me out here. 

So, after checking things out a bit, I put the saw back together and go to put my Oregon bar and chain off my old Echo (dead) on it as it's 14" and I have a bunch of new chain already made up for it. The adjuster for the Sears saw is some EZAdjust rack 'n pinion affair that seems pretty cheezy, but I figure there must be a "normal" adjustment setup. There is....sorta. The case is machined for a typical screw type adjuster that carries a threaded drive pin for the hole in the bar, but the screw mechanism itself is missing. Does anybody know what fits and where to get it? The one off the Echo was much too small. I looked on Bailey's but got lost and they're closed now. Manana, maybe.

So I mount up the stock 18" bar and chain and wander out to the wood pile. Since I can't do the muff mod I just run the thing "stock". I put in 40:1 gas, but that's new for me as my Stihls and Huskies run 50:1. It fires right up, is pretty quiet and runs just fine, thank you very much. A bit down on power, maybe, but if I can figure out the carb adjustment then I can do the muff mod for more HP.

Overall, after running a tank of gas through it I'm pretty happy. I don't see anything else out there on the market for under $200 that I would rather have. It's light, it has a rear handle, it has pretty good power, carries a 3 year warranty, and seems well built. Lots of plastic, but it's GOOD plastic....:biggrinbounce2: They seemed to put metal in the right places and plastic in the rest of the saw for light weight.

One final question: do you experts think I can run the same mix in both the Sears (40:1) and the rest of the saws (normally 50:1)? I was a bit surprised at the 40:1 since the saw is supposedly pretty clean burning. Green? Eco-friendly? PC? Screw that! Gimme the power!!! :chainsawguy:


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## WagonRanch (Aug 26, 2010)

*Sears Pro Pictures*

In this picture you can just barely see the adjustment screws, they look like they're in the end of a double barreled shotgun...


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## WagonRanch (Aug 26, 2010)

*Sears Pro Pictures*

Here's a couple of snap shots of the new saw.


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## davec (Nov 17, 2010)

Anyone have to repair one of these? I've used it a ton this summer, and overall it's been great. The problem is that I have been using it a lot to cut off tiny saplings and branches and small trees and stumps flush, so I drive it right into the tangle of brush a lot, so the chain snags a couple times each day and flies off (yes I watch tension closely because of how it is used). With all that, it looks like the last time out, it nicked the fuel tank just enough to cause a small leak on the final chain fling. 

I tried some epoxy, but it either does not hold up to gas or it didn't stick well enough as it still leaks there. It looks like I can get the tank as a spare part, but it will be a full tear down to replace it (it is half the saw, practically). Not sure if it is worth the $30+ shipping or not, but I certainly have gotten my money out of this saw, so i may just bite the bullet. Just beoytching before I go buy it and get it done, I guess. Anyone have any thoughts otherwise?

-Dave


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## caleath (Nov 17, 2010)

nice little saw...i might need to find one


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## danl (Nov 18, 2010)

"This review is from: Factory Reconditioned Ryobi ZRRY10532 18-Inch 40cc 2-Cycle Gas-Powered Chain Saw (Lawn & Patio) 
Bought this reconditioned chainsaw. It came without instructions how to assemble the blade. I was unable to put the chain and blade on the engine, called the factory a few weeks later to find out I could not return the chainsaw because they had a few days return policy. They sent me to a dealer, they were un-cooperative and mentioned to me the company was un-cooperative with them. The chainsaw is still at the dealer over a month after the purchase and I still do not have a workable chainsaw to work with. This is a bad situation for anyone wanting to save a few dollars to buy a chainsaw." 
This is not me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was checking to see if Amazon had any more of these saws and found this old review..
Does anyone else think maybe he doesn't need a real saw. Maybe Playschool


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## cheshire cat (Jun 9, 2011)

*Ryobi Rcs4046C (Euro' designation)*



blsnelling said:


> This Ryobi has the Zenoah cylinder made in Japan.


 Just got mine stripped to the short engine sad to say no"ZENOAH" it has "T2128" however I have found a sticker with "GZ4000 SB" thought that number sounds familiar :smile2: Brad do you have any pointers or are they trade secrets


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## cheshire cat (Jun 9, 2011)

*bulge*



danl said:


> Took the chain brake apart, nothing looks unhooked. It appears the band is not sliding forward when the brake is engaged.
> 
> The long spring is buckled up under tension, has anyone else looked at theirs?
> 
> ...


 
I 'spect they all do I'm going to try a rod inside the spring like you find on air rifles


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## cheshire cat (Jun 9, 2011)

*split tank*



davec said:


> Anyone have to repair one of these? I've used it a ton this summer, and overall it's been great. The problem is that I have been using it a lot to cut off tiny saplings and branches and small trees and stumps flush, so I drive it right into the tangle of brush a lot, so the chain snags a couple times each day and flies off (yes I watch tension closely because of how it is used). With all that, it looks like the last time out, it nicked the fuel tank just enough to cause a small leak on the final chain fling.
> 
> I tried some epoxy, but it either does not hold up to gas or it didn't stick well enough as it still leaks there. It looks like I can get the tank as a spare part, but it will be a full tear down to replace it (it is half the saw, practically). Not sure if it is worth the $30+ shipping or not, but I certainly have gotten my money out of this saw, so i may just bite the bullet. Just beoytching before I go buy it and get it done, I guess. Anyone have any thoughts otherwise?
> 
> -Dave


 plastic welding? soldering iron if it's small


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## Vibes (Jun 9, 2011)

Where did you find parts for this saw. Funny that this thread popped up because I'm tinkering with one of these saws now. I tried the search engine and apparently it was straight gased.

I need a chain tensioner and outside guide plate for my remanufactured Sears Craftsman Professional so I can scrap the stupid intenz bar. What a dumb idea of chainsaw technology that set-up is. I've heard of people talking about those Intenz bars but I never thought that thing would be as bad as it is, Chain will stay on for 5 minutes if you're lucky.

I feal if you can't figure out how to tighten a chain, especially with the side adjuster on the Ryobi, them you probably shouldn't run a saw.


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## davec (Jun 9, 2011)

I got parts from on e of the online sources. Partstree.com or some other place. I picked up a spare clutch/sprocket even though mine is OK (but showing some abuse, especially from chain throws), as it looked like they are getting to be slim on support now (discontinued) and I wanted to get one while I could.

Replaced the tank and all is well now. tried repairing it, but it wouldn't work.


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## Vibes (Jun 10, 2011)

Many of the Craftsman Professional parts will fit these saws. They are almost identical. I tried to get the chain adjuster through the Ryobi website thats in the manual, and they didn.t have anything at all listed for this saw. 

It looks like the new Ryobi's are those junky Homelite Rangers.

I may just go through Red Max


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## barneyrb (Jun 10, 2011)

If anyone has a decent cylinder from a broke saw I'd be interested. I have a customers saw that he wants to repair and the new one is way too high.


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## Streblerm (Jun 10, 2011)

I have a GZ400 which I think is the exact same saw. If you want some pictures of anything just let me know. Redmax parts seemed fairly reasonable when I looked them up. I am pretty sure most of the parts are the same on the GZ4000 too but I haven't verified every part between IPLs.

http://www.redmax.com/ddoc/ZENI/ZENI2007_USen/ZENI2007_USen_GZ400,0702_.pdf


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## dante2 (Jun 10, 2011)

Ryobi RY10532 Parts List and Diagram : eReplacementParts.com

This is the place that I got my sprocket a while back. Takes a little longer to get it but not to bad at least they are the correct parts. I think it was $20 shipped so I went ahead and fixed it due to having a few of the Tiger Champ combos with no saw to use them on. When this one bites the dust I will replace it with a small Echo.


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## Vibes (Jun 13, 2011)

Thanks for that diagram Dante. Looks like the chain adjuster is not available. My guess is everyone who bought the Sears Pro model are buying that adjuster. I'll try Red Max


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## thomasthomas (Aug 12, 2011)

*ryobi 10532/ 4046c*

is the ryobi 10532 an american version of the ryobi 4046c sold in europe
because they look very alike .

thomas


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## cheshire cat (Aug 13, 2011)

thomasthomas said:


> is the ryobi 10532 an american version of the ryobi 4046c sold in europe
> because they look very alike .
> 
> thomas


 yes they are :- RCS-3540C RCS-4046C RCS-4450 of these the 4046 seems the most popular, I guess they were only available for approx three years having gone back to the front tank/rear tank style which I don't think are "stratos" many seem to suffer from lack of oil feed which (on mine ) means a new oil pump driver, a plastic "worm" approx £8 -- unfortunatly the cheap chinese worms don't fit as they are a bit larger and beefier


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## Streblerm (Oct 18, 2011)

I didn't think it was worth starting a new thread for this. Since most of the good Ryobis seem to be gone as are most of the craftsman professional versions. I see a few GZ400s from here and there but they list for over $250. Does anyone see any family resemblance here?







I guess it could be the result of a copy of a chinese copy of a japanese saw, but the reviews looked pretty positive ie. no fuel line issues out of the box. Northern Tool was blowing them out for $99 with a case a while back but they seem to be all gone. A resourceful person could probably still find some, maybe on a popular auction site. If I wasn't on a self imposed spending freeze I would order one just to see what it says on the cylinder.


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## tmessenger (Oct 18, 2011)

Streblerm said:


> I didn't think it was worth starting a new thread for this. Since most of the good Ryobis seem to be gone as are most of the craftsman professional versions. I see a few GZ400s from here and there but they list for over $250. Does anyone see any family resemblance here?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

The covers look the same as my ryobi 10532


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## dave_376 (Oct 27, 2011)

anyone look into this anymore? they look similar. I also noticed that they recently updated them, different design on the plastic. Does anyone know if they are a redmax?


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## Streblerm (Oct 29, 2011)

I just bought one on e-bay. I'm hoping it comes with the plastic saw case. I'll pull the covers off and we can see if it was made in the redmax factory in China or if it came from the one next door where they are copying them.:smile2:


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## Vibes (Oct 30, 2011)

I just bought one on e-bay.


What is the name on that saw, and what did you search on Ebay?


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## Streblerm (Oct 30, 2011)

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

"Powerhorse" is the brand. I think they are selling them at Northern Tool still. The 37cc and 45cc saws look like Redmax and the 40cc looks like something Chinese. I'm hoping "refurbished in box" means it comes with the case.


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## Streblerm (Nov 7, 2011)

Looks like its a no-go on the Powerhorse saw. The seller didn't actually have one and apparently they are backordered. They offered me a refund ora 45cc homelite that was "a much more powerful saw." I went for the refund. I was willing to take a chance that the Powerhorse saw wasnt a piece of ####. I don't think I'll do the same on a Homelite.


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## Vibes (Nov 8, 2011)

Well I just bought one of the 45cc Powerhorse saws on Ebay. I got the one with the cracked handle. Said it doesn't affect the performance of the saw. I'll bet its cracked more than they know, but my buddy is teaching the tig welding night class at my unions school, so hopefully theres a bored student there who's done with all his welding coupons and needs something to weld. I'm in it for $101. Says its new never used. I'm curious to see whats under the plastic on one of these. It looks like the older Red Max saws, but I don't remember if they had a 45cc or not. I couldn't find a picture of one on the web. I'll post when I get my hands on it.


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## Vibes (Nov 16, 2011)

Well I got the Powerhorse in today. The inintial look over hasn't impressed me. Its definately not Zenoah. I never saw a Red Max 4500, so I don't know if its a direct copy or not. The tag says Yonghang Zhongian Tools Manufacture. It came with an Oregon Double guard 18 inch bar and Oregon 20LPX chain. Also a nice case. Other than that, this thing is typical Chicom quality. Its got a mag case, but the castings seem pourous. The edges of the castings are rough and just have that unfinished feal to them. The plastic pieces don't fit well and seam to be made out of junky plastic. Almost like what the old green army men were made out of when we were kids. The on/off switch doesn't seem to click like it should, and the choke switch needs some attention. The cap for the bar oil tank is real loose fitting and even when tightened down, it moves from side to side quite easily. If it quits raining, I'll go out and gas it up. It came with a bottle of 40:1 mix oil, a 3.2 oz. bottle of bar oil, scrench and supposedly a 3 year warraunty.

Well I've got $101 into it. If nothing else its got a good bar and chain, and the carry case. The cats are digging the carry case. One cat is inside it putting his paws out where the scabbard goes, and the other one is on the outside attacking his paws. So they're happy with it.


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## dboyd351 (Jan 17, 2012)

Subscribed


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## BrocLuno (Mar 22, 2012)

*They're strangeled ...*



whitedogone said:


> They seem to be put together well. But, there sure are a LOT of those things refurbished on the net. Makes one wonder why. WDO



They have no room to breath. They come out of the box with no power at all and the carb needs a special tool that is not in the kit to tune. So the home owner gets frustrated and sends it back. 

CPO Ryobi is the way to go. Get the tuning tool and open the muffler before you even run one. Porting is possible. Zen motors are well known to run


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## Chris-PA (Aug 19, 2012)

Wow, I just finished reading this entire old thread after Scott pointed it out to me. I did search on these model names but somehow I missed this one. Anyway, the McCulloch MS4018PAV is also similar to the RedMax GZ4000/GZ400 (still foggy on the difference). Mine says it's made in Taiwan, although the design and the parts are clearly RedMax. The oiler is non-adjustable, so I don't know if it's more similar to the GZ4000 or GZ400. I'll add a link to the thread I did in case anyone is looking for info: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/204686.htm

A couple of items: First, the airbox does have an inlet, it's a triangular opening that lets to an entrance behind the clutch cover. It pulls in a lot of fines. I modded mine differently.

Second, the muffler mod done here punches from the outlet area through the divider plate, but leads to an area that is somewhat restricted from the port. The port is angled down and blows into the bottom of the muffler, which is a larger area, but the holes through the baffle are small. I also modded the muffler differently.

I've had no fuel line issues.


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## davec (Aug 19, 2012)

Interesting to see this revived. I have become disenchanted with mine. It is hard to start and keep running until warmed up, then it does OK for a while. Then if you turn if off and let it sit for a bit it is basically impossible to restart. I have tried all sorts of tuning variations with it, but cannot find a sweet spot. It is nice to have a saw this size for close-in work, but only if it will run... I like my MS362 as it always starts runs and performs great. I would like a smaller saw _*that works*_, so maybe I will pickup a small Stihl one of these days. Not a priority right now...


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## Chris-PA (Aug 20, 2012)

davec said:


> Interesting to see this revived. I have become disenchanted with mine. It is hard to start and keep running until warmed up, then it does OK for a while. Then if you turn if off and let it sit for a bit it is basically impossible to restart. I have tried all sorts of tuning variations with it, but cannot find a sweet spot. It is nice to have a saw this size for close-in work, but only if it will run... I like my MS362 as it always starts runs and performs great. I would like a smaller saw _*that works*_, so maybe I will pickup a small Stihl one of these days. Not a priority right now...


Bummer, but I don't think that's inherent to the saw - sounds like typical carb problems. Probably a leaky needle + tank pressure = flooding. Or it's just a ZAMA. The only saw I have which randomly has that issue has a small ZAMA (not for long). Luckily my McCulloch has a Walbro. 

I'd put a carb kit in it and it might fix it.


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## 7sleeper (Aug 20, 2012)

davec said:


> Interesting to see this revived. I have become disenchanted with mine. It is hard to start and keep running until warmed up, then it does OK for a while. Then if you turn if off and let it sit for a bit it is basically impossible to restart. I have tried all sorts of tuning variations with it, but cannot find a sweet spot. It is nice to have a saw this size for close-in work, but only if it will run... I like my MS362 as it always starts runs and performs great. I would like a smaller saw _*that works*_, so maybe I will pickup a small Stihl one of these days. Not a priority right now...



Sounds to me more like a defective coil.

7


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## Chris-PA (Aug 20, 2012)

7sleeper said:


> Sounds to me more like a defective coil.
> 
> 7


Also a good possibility!


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## davec (Aug 20, 2012)

I'm not real crazy about throwing parts at a cheap saw in hopes of fixing it... Parts will cost more than the saw did...


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## dboyd351 (Aug 31, 2012)

davec said:


> Interesting to see this revived. I have become disenchanted with mine. It is hard to start and keep running until warmed up, then it does OK for a while. Then if you turn if off and let it sit for a bit it is basically impossible to restart. I have tried all sorts of tuning variations with it, but cannot find a sweet spot. It is nice to have a saw this size for close-in work, but only if it will run... I like my MS362 as it always starts runs and performs great. I would like a smaller saw _*that works*_, so maybe I will pickup a small Stihl one of these days. Not a priority right now...



Davec,
Which saw do you have that has these problems? The thread started off talking about the Ryobi 10532, but now people are talking about the Powerhorse saws, as well as the several models of Redmaxes the Ryobi copied.


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## Chris-PA (Aug 31, 2012)

davec said:


> I'm not real crazy about throwing parts at a cheap saw in hopes of fixing it... Parts will cost more than the saw did...


This is an interesting point of view - if you had paid more for the saw you would feel more comfortable spending money on parts for it. And yet it is a far higher quality piece than any similar displacement plastic Stihl which costs more. The cost of a product is not based on the cost of the materials and does not reflect the quality of the product - it's based solely on what they can get you to pay for it. 



dboyd351 said:


> Davec,
> Which saw do you have that has these problems? The thread started off talking about the Ryobi 10532, but now people are talking about the Powerhorse saws, as well as the several models of Redmaxes the Ryobi copied.


The idea that these are copies of the RedMax sort of implies they are stolen/unauthorized, but this is not realistic. There's no way that a corporation such as Ryobi or Jenn Feng/McCulloch gets aways with selling stolen designs in the US - these are licensed designs or actual RedMax saws. Even the Chinese knock offs are probably coming out the back door of the factory that makes the actual saws, such as the GZ400. RedMax never had a high sales volume, so it makes sense for them to have done licensed or contract designs.


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## Chris J. (Aug 31, 2012)

HimWill said:


> On an older thread,there is some discussion about Sears carrying the same saw as a Craftsman Professional.If you can locate the Sears model number then sears.com should have the parts.





Brian_NC said:


> I've got what I guess is the Sears version of the saw, with exception the chain adjuster it looks identical, although it has made in Japan on it. The model is 358.362180. Ya'll are right on about them needing the muffler opened, mine acts like it has a muzzle on it.



While I wouldn't be surprised if Sears sold the Redmax rebadged as a Craftsman, I'm not sure that the Craftsman model # information is accurate. I'm under the impression the 358 prefix indicates made by Poulan.


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## davec (Aug 31, 2012)

I have the Ryobi 10532. 

WHW - I see your logic, but frankly it was never that great of a saw from the beginning. I don't think it is anything superior, so therefore it is a "cheap saw" to me. It has always been hard starting and running when cold, and then difficult to restart when warm. But now it is to the point where if it stops, you can forget restarting it. I got my $100 worth, and I even replaced the tank after a thrown chain put a small hole in it (another $50). But now to guess new carb or new coil, I would be throwing money at it with no real diagnosis that it would fix anything. I would rather spend further money on a small Stihl that I have confidence would actually start and run when I want it to.


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## blsnelling (Jan 29, 2014)

5 years later and I still haven't modded a GZ4500. I've still not seen a 9.5# 40cc saw that could run like these Redmax saws. I fixed the vids on page 1 & 2.


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## ondarvr (Nov 28, 2020)

I thought I'd give an update on the Homlite that was the replacement saw for the Ryobi under warranty. 

I still have it and it runs, although the primer bulb just failed, I have some, just haven't replaced it yet. 

This thing has been beat to death, it's lived its life as a camp saw that everybody grabs to cut dirty wood for the campfire. It always starts, the chain doesn't fall off even though that was the biggest online complaint. The no tools adjuster looks weak and flimsy, but it still works. 

It has been run on just about every oil and ratio combination imaginable, even outboard oil measured with the glug glug method. It was a sacrificial saw to keep people from using my better stuff in camp. It will sit for a very long time, and then start easily. 

I still don't like it, but it keeps on running.


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## lone wolf (Nov 28, 2020)

davec said:


> Interesting to see this revived. I have become disenchanted with mine. It is hard to start and keep running until warmed up, then it does OK for a while. Then if you turn if off and let it sit for a bit it is basically impossible to restart. I have tried all sorts of tuning variations with it, but cannot find a sweet spot. It is nice to have a saw this size for close-in work, but only if it will run... I like my MS362 as it always starts runs and performs great. I would like a smaller saw _*that works*_, so maybe I will pickup a small Stihl one of these days. Not a priority right now...


Look for a 241 C Stihl.


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## Stateline Sawer (Dec 16, 2020)

blsnelling said:


> I've got one of these little Ryobis here that several of you have mentioned for about $100. Immediately upon removing it from the box, it was obvious it was a Redmax. It looks nearly identical to my 3800, LINK. I believe this is a copy the Redmax GZ400, LINK. The only apparent difference between it and the 3800 is that it's stratofied.
> 
> Bone stock, it runs better than the 3800. The 3800 has to be muffler modded or is the most gutless saw I've ever run. Once opened up, they are very respectable and have been my favorite little saw.
> 
> ...


Hello all. New to site after having lurked for years. Just wondering after 10 years how the 10532's and their zenoah brethren are holding up after 10 years? I have one, muffler modded and it's a little beast. I know it's an old post, but just curious.


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