# Husqvarna 2100 Jungle Type



## Homelitesuperxl (Mar 10, 2012)

I'm curious, are the only differences between a Husqvarna 2100cd and a Jungle version 2100 are the Thin Ring Piston and Jungle Muffler.


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## jockeydeuce (Mar 10, 2012)

That thin ring connection to the "Jungle" model isn't fact at all.....I've seen more than a few 2100CD's with thin rings......The "jungle muffler" was just an optional thing and that's about where the bear $hit and the buckwheat part ways as near as I can tell.:msp_biggrin:


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## sawfun9 (Mar 10, 2012)

is the jungle muffler the one that exits out the front down low with the louvers, or the one that exits out the side?


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## Roanoker494 (Mar 10, 2012)

Jungle muffler has the front exit.


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## komatsuvarna (Mar 10, 2012)

So this is a jungle muffler right? 









Im don't know much about these model saws. Its off a 2100cd. Mine has the thick ring piston.


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## Homelitesuperxl (Mar 10, 2012)

Yeah! that's the Jungle Muffler for a 2100cd. This whole 2100 jungle type Chainsaw is confusing. Were these only available in certain Countries or were they a special order item Saw. It's kind of weird, some came with Thin Rings and that Jungle Muffler, Possibly different cylinder.


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## Joe46 (Mar 10, 2012)

My own personal thoughts are that is no absolutes with 2100's. Different mufflers, different AV mounts, different rings/pistons, different dogs, brake/no brake. Perhaps model years, where sold had some bearing???


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## komatsuvarna (Mar 10, 2012)

I can't remember without going and looking, but Im thinking mine is a 1985 model. I kinda expected a Mahle topend, but it's not labeled that I could find under the gunk. Its nice quality, I figured it might be a gladardion ( know thats not spelled right), but it may not me too. Mine doesn't have a chain brake stuff either, but I guess that could be easily changed. First older model saw I've been into, Im interested in learning about these models. Right now mine's tore all the way down lol.


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## dynodave (Mar 10, 2012)

*2100/298 muffler*

Is is correct that the CD and/or jungle muffler will fit on the 298xp...sorry, have not yet compared the two IPL's.... If so... is it worth looking out for one? What "is" the jungle muffler difference?
Thanx


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## husq2100 (Mar 10, 2012)

The Husqvarna 2100 ran from 1976-1986/87 then it became the 2101, which ran until 91 or so. There are some absolutes: The Jungle muffler is the one pictured, with the exhaust outlet at bottom front through the lovures. This muffler along with the "normal" muffler became deeper by about 10mm (ie more internal volume, same height and width) in 1985. It looks like the jungle muffler first appeared in 78/79, and was first referred to as "jungle" in 83. There was a piston change early on in 1978, not sure what the details are but there is a part # change in 78. (Note, this change is *not* the thin ring piston!) The thin ring piston first appeared in 1983/84. There is a part# listing for the thin rings in 1984, but no listing for the piston itself??? There is also reference to a slight crankcase change that if fitting the new cylinder/piston kit it would fowl on a very small piece of casting and that it had to be removed. Then in 1987 the standard thick ring piston got a change in that the ring lands/pins were moved to the inlet side and some reinforcing done under the piston rings. BTW in 1984 Husqvarna refers to their *thick* ring piston/cylinder set as the "jungle" type.......and did so untill 86/87. With the introduction of the 2101, the thin ring version was dropped and they used the same piston and rings in both std and "Jungle" types. Thick rings are cast and thin rings are steel. A "jungle" type clutch appeared in 1985 along with standard and continued until the end of the 2101. Very early 2100's had the Femsa type flywheel and ignition and then changed to SEM in 78. AFAIK they were all 3 pawl, and I believe it was the earlier 1100's that were 2 pawl. There were other small changes along the way with things like chainbrakes and clutch covers. There are 2 different chainbrake handle depedning on whether you have a full or half wrap handle. The oiler was available with 2 different pump shafts in 1981 onwards, one with 9-18ml output and the other with 15-24ml. 

Now here is the kicker. I have no idea what Husqvarna spec'd for what market when 2 options were available, and then it would also depend on what the dealer was asking for to a degree. We have seen evidence of the PNW pushing saws for more power and bigger oil output due to the timber they were felling back in the day, and Im sure some of the stuff in say Brazil needed similar also.....just a guess really.

Take this info for what you will, dates could be wrong, but should be close.

I dont know much about the 298, other than no manual oiler and I think a different starter as they were prone to breaking and getting 2100 types swapped in???


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## Logger4Life (Mar 10, 2012)

*Jungle model*

I was told by ED Heard that he actually had like 3 or 4 2100 a while back and one of them was a 2100 Jungle and it actually had a different cylinder than the other ones the combustion chamber was smaller and who knows about the port timing they where a thin ring saws but he said the Jungle version was way stronger right out of the box. He also told me that he tried to order the same cylinder using the part # from the Jungle saw and when they showed up they were the regular 2100 cylinders. So he has only ever saw one true 2100 jungle in his day and the cylinder was diffinately different from a 2100CD.


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## husq2100 (Mar 10, 2012)

komatsuvarna said:


> I can't remember without going and looking, but Im thinking mine is a 1985 model. I kinda expected a Mahle topend, but it's not labeled that I could find under the gunk. Its nice quality, I figured it might be a gladardion ( know thats not spelled right), but it may not me too. Mine doesn't have a chain brake stuff either, but I guess that could be easily changed. First older model saw I've been into, Im interested in learning about these models. Right now mine's tore all the way down lol.



I have 7 2100/2101 cylinders, all are made by *KolbenSchmidt*, this company made many pistons and cylinders for Husqvarna (among many others) their brand symbol is a *S* over the top of an *K*. I also have 14 2100/2101 pistons of all types, these also are all *KolbenSchmidt*.


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## komatsuvarna (Mar 10, 2012)

husq2100 said:


> The Husqvarna 2100 ran from 1976-1986/87 then it became the 2101, which ran until 91 or so. There are some absolutes: The Jungle muffler is the one pictured, with the exhaust outlet at bottom front through the lovures. This muffler along with the "normal" muffler became deeper by about 10mm (ie more internal volume, same height and width) in 1985. It looks like the jungle muffler first appeared in 78/79, and was first referred to as "jungle" in 83. There was a piston change early on in 1978, not sure what the details are but there is a part # change in 78. (Note, this change is *not* the thin ring piston!) The thin ring piston first appeared in 1983/84. There is a part# listing for the thin rings in 1984, but no listing for the piston itself??? There is also reference to a slight crankcase change that if fitting the new cylinder/piston kit it would fowl on a very small piece of casting and that it had to be removed. Then in 1987 the standard thick ring piston got a change in that the ring lands/pins were moved to the inlet side and some reinforcing done under the piston rings. BTW in 1984 Husqvarna refers to their *thick* ring piston/cylinder set as the "jungle" type.......and did so untill 86/87. With the introduction of the 2101, the thin ring version was dropped and they used the same piston and rings in both std and "Jungle" types. Thick rings are cast and thin rings are steel. A "jungle" type clutch appeared in 1985 along with standard and continued until the end of the 2101. Very early 2100's had the Femsa type flywheel and ignition and then changed to SEM in 78. AFAIK they were all 3 pawl, and I believe it was the earlier 1100's that were 2 pawl. There were other small changes along the way with things like chainbrakes and clutch covers. There are 2 different chainbrake handle depedning on whether you have a full or half wrap handle. The oiler was available with 2 different pump shafts in 1981 onwards, one with 9-18ml output and the other with 15-24ml.
> 
> Now here is the kicker. I have no idea what Husqvarna spec'd for what market when 2 options were available, and then it would also depend on what the dealer was asking for to a degree. We have seen evidence of the PNW pushing saws for more power and bigger oil output due to the timber they were felling back in the day, and Im sure some of the stuff in say Brazil needed similar also.....just a guess really.
> 
> ...



Wow, Thats a lot of information! Was there ever an actual ''jungle'' name on any of the 2100s?

Mine is an 85 model. It has the jungle muffler on it. It has the thick ring piston, with the ring end pins on the exhaust side. It has a very beefy looking clutch, don't know if its a ''jungle'' or not, but it looks a lot more heavier than my 395 clutch. Mine also has the SEM ignition.


Edit, Im a slow typer


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## husq2100 (Mar 10, 2012)

Logger4Life said:


> I was told by ED Heard that he actually had like 3 or 4 2100 a while back and one of them was a 2100 Jungle and it actually had a different cylinder than the other ones the combustion chamber was smaller and who knows about the port timing they where a thin ring saws but he said the Jungle version was way stronger right out of the box. He also told me that he tried to order the same cylinder using the part # from the Jungle saw and when they showed up they were the regular 2100 cylinders. So he has only ever saw one true 2100 jungle in his day and the cylinder was diffinately different from a 2100CD.



hmmmm, confusing......

Husqvarna 2100, 1984 there are 2 cylinder kits listed, both the same part# but one referred to as Jungle type. The Jungle version has the *thick *ring piston and cylinder. This was the same in 1985. When Husqvarna went to the 2101 in 1987 they have again 2 cylinders listed but now have different part # for the Jungle and other. *BUT* the kicker is now they use the same piston and ring set *(Thick)*. This remained untill the end of the 2101, all be it with the ring land/pin relocation.

I have no Idea what Ed Heard was back in the day, but unless he was a dealer or bought the saw brand new in box from the shop, unmodified, then anything could have happend. It is pretty much impossible to find a 2100/2101 that isnt a hybrid bastard. I would love to find one of these so called smaller CC cylinders and see what is what???? But according to Husqvarna's info the Jungle was the *Thick* ring piston, but yes maybe some came with a small CC.


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## Homelitesuperxl (Mar 10, 2012)

Hmmm! this is kind of a Mystery for this Particular model of Saw. Makes it more and more interesting the more I read


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## husq2100 (Mar 10, 2012)

komatsuvarna said:


> Wow, Thats a lot of information! Was there ever an actual ''jungle'' name on any of the 2100s?
> 
> Mine is an 85 model. It has the jungle muffler on it. It has the thick ring piston, with the ring end pins on the exhaust side. It has a very beefy looking clutch, don't know if its a ''jungle'' or not, but it looks a lot more heavier than my 395 clutch. Mine also has the SEM ignition.
> 
> ...



No "Jungle" sticker or stamping AFAIK. In 1985, from Husky yours would have been available with either a rim sprocket or spur type. Is there a part# on the clutch itself? or on the back of the drum? Yours could have either the thin or deeper muffler. Measure the length of your muffler bolts ( 60 or 70mm). Small round aluiminium chain catcher was also introduced around this time. ( it comes off the front big rubber av mount. Your clutch cover could be either non-chainbrake or a chainbrake type with the brake mechanisim and handle removed (common on these old saws, handle and mech. get broken and cant get parts)


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## komatsuvarna (Mar 10, 2012)

husq2100 said:


> No "Jungle" sticker or stamping AFAIK. In 1985, from Husky yours would have been available with either a rim sprocket or spur type. Is there a part# on the clutch itself? or on the back of the drum? Yours could have either the thin or deeper muffler. Measure the length of your muffler bolts ( 60 or 70mm). Small round aluiminium chain catcher was also introduced around this time. ( it comes off the front big rubber av mount. Your clutch cover could be either non-chainbrake or a chainbrake type with the brake mechanisim and handle removed (common on these old saws, handle and mech. get broken and cant get parts)



Mine has a rim sprocket. Ill have to check on the clutch PN. Ill measure the muffler bolts as well. Mine does have the small aluminum round chain catcher. Ill check on the rest. Interesting thread forsure.

How about the carbs? Mine is a Tilly. It has some kind of big brass plug in the side of it.....slotted for a flat head screwdriver. I don't think its ever been out, just by looking at the red stuff it's sealed with. Is it some kind of goverened carb?


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## MS460WOODCHUCK (Mar 10, 2012)

husq2100 said:


> The Husqvarna 2100 ran from 1976-1986/87 then it became the 2101, which ran until 91 or so. There are some absolutes: The Jungle muffler is the one pictured, with the exhaust outlet at bottom front through the lovures. This muffler along with the "normal" muffler became deeper by about 10mm (ie more internal volume, same height and width) in 1985. It looks like the jungle muffler first appeared in 78/79, and was first referred to as "jungle" in 83. There was a piston change early on in 1978, not sure what the details are but there is a part # change in 78. (Note, this change is *not* the thin ring piston!) The thin ring piston first appeared in 1983/84. There is a part# listing for the thin rings in 1984, but no listing for the piston itself??? There is also reference to a slight crankcase change that if fitting the new cylinder/piston kit it would fowl on a very small piece of casting and that it had to be removed. Then in 1987 the standard thick ring piston got a change in that the ring lands/pins were moved to the inlet side and some reinforcing done under the piston rings. BTW in 1984 Husqvarna refers to their *thick* ring piston/cylinder set as the "jungle" type.......and did so untill 86/87. With the introduction of the 2101, the thin ring version was dropped and they used the same piston and rings in both std and "Jungle" types. Thick rings are cast and thin rings are steel. A "jungle" type clutch appeared in 1985 along with standard and continued until the end of the 2101. Very early 2100's had the Femsa type flywheel and ignition and then changed to SEM in 78. AFAIK they were all 3 pawl, and I believe it was the earlier 1100's that were 2 pawl. There were other small changes along the way with things like chainbrakes and clutch covers. There are 2 different chainbrake handle depedning on whether you have a full or half wrap handle. The oiler was available with 2 different pump shafts in 1981 onwards, one with 9-18ml output and the other with 15-24ml.
> 
> Now here is the kicker. I have no idea what Husqvarna spec'd for what market when 2 options were available, and then it would also depend on what the dealer was asking for to a degree. We have seen evidence of the PNW pushing saws for more power and bigger oil output due to the timber they were felling back in the day, and Im sure some of the stuff in say Brazil needed similar also.....just a guess really.
> 
> ...



This is alot to take in...


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## komatsuvarna (Mar 10, 2012)

No PN on the clutch. Its an Oregon drum so I guess it's been changed at some time? I have the 60mm muffler bolts. I also found the SK symbol on the piston and cylinder. Im learning a lot here.


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## husq2100 (Mar 10, 2012)

komatsuvarna said:


> Mine has a rim sprocket. Ill have to check on the clutch PN. Ill measure the muffler bolts as well. Mine does have the small aluminum round chain catcher. Ill check on the rest. Interesting thread forsure.
> 
> How about the carbs? Mine is a Tilly. It has some kind of big brass plug in the side of it.....slotted for a flat head screwdriver. I don't think its ever been out, just by looking at the red stuff it's sealed with. Is it some kind of goverened carb?



Yes all Tillotson, Husqvarna 2100 and 2101 is Tillotson HS 136C. Of coarse there would be minor changes along the way. The brass set screw you refer to is a governor as you say. There is a simple mod to bypass this if you want. I cant quite remeber it right now. search it will be in here. The governor supplies extra fuel at max RPM so it can NOT over rev. It is factory set and cannot be adjusted. It can be bypassed :hmm3grin2orange:


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## husq2100 (Mar 10, 2012)

komatsuvarna said:


> No PN on the clutch. Its an Oregon drum so I guess it's been changed at some time? I have the 60mm muffler bolts. I also found the SK symbol on the piston and cylinder. Im learning a lot here.



Oregon would have supplied them back in the day for factory fitment I would *think*. If factory they will have a part# starting with 501 or 503. If just Oregon it will only have a 5 didget Oregon part# The saws I have are from USA, the drums that have Husqvarna part #'s are all made in "Canada" so I *guess* Oregon supplied them. Does your oiler have a brass drive gear?


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## komatsuvarna (Mar 10, 2012)

husq2100 said:


> Oregon would have supplied them back in the day for factory fitment I would *think*. If factory they will have a part# starting with 501 or 503. If just Oregon it will only have a 5 didget Oregon part# The saws I have are from USA, the drums that have Husqvarna part #'s are all made in "Canada" so I *guess* Oregon supplied them. Does your oiler have a brass drive gear?



Mine just has a 5 digit Oregon number, I had it memorized until I got back in the house :msp_rolleyes:. Yes, Brass gear drive.


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## Joe46 (Mar 10, 2012)

On my first 2100 my dealer modified the carb. I believe he bored the venturi, and I "think" put a welch plug in place of the gov. This was I believe around around 1979. Mine also came with the 7th mount, which I believe the very early models didn't have. Perhaps Husq2100 can verify? Appreciate all the info. I've only owned 3 so it's good to learn more about them.


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## husq2100 (Mar 10, 2012)

Regarding your oiler, make sure it has a steel washer that runs between the brass gear and crank seal (seal is fitted to oiler on this side on alot of Huskies). It should also have a rubber ring/seal (called a V ring) that fits to the metal insert in the clutch side face of the oiler housing, then you need a plastic seal ring to cover this. Then your rim and drum pushes through into the brass drive gear. On the case side there should be a little rubber seal for the 2 small oil points and a O ring around the main opening.

*Edit:* also forgot, does it have the little white plastic plug in the housing at the end of the pump shaft? if so this is a bugger to get out. I couldnt get mine out without destroying it. I am yet to find anywhere to buy them....If you look at my Husqvarna 2100 Oiler thread, you will see it talked about. Turtle gave some good info.


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## husq2100 (Mar 10, 2012)

Joe46 said:


> On my first 2100 my dealer modified the carb. I believe he bored the venturi, and I "think" put a welch plug in place of the gov. This was I believe around around 1979. Mine also came with the 7th mount, which I believe the very early models didn't have. Perhaps Husq2100 can verify? Appreciate all the info. I've only owned 3 so it's good to learn more about them.



Looks like the 7th av mount (out front) was introduced around 1980. At the same time there was a change to the exhaust outlet on the "Jungle" type muffler. 

How did that bad boy run after the carb mods? Where was this dealer located? what did you use the saw for? Does he have any NOS parts left haha :msp_w00t:


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## komatsuvarna (Mar 10, 2012)

husq2100 said:


> Regarding your oiler, make sure it has a steel washer that runs between the brass gear and crank seal (seal is fitted to oiler on this side on alot of Huskies). It should also have a rubber ring/seal (called a V ring) that fits to the metal insert in the clutch side face of the oiler housing, then you need a plastic seal ring to cover this. Then your rim and drum pushes through into the brass drive gear. On the case side there should be a little rubber seal for the 2 small oil points and a O ring around the main opening.
> 
> *Edit:* also forgot, does it have the little white plastic plug in the housing at the end of the pump shaft? if so this is a bugger to get out. I couldnt get mine out without destroying it. I am yet to find anywhere to buy them....If you look at my Husqvarna 2100 Oiler thread, you will see it talked about. Turtle gave some good info.



Ill have to check on that and see. I just tore it down today, but I can't remember all the small details. I pretty sure all that stuff is there, but Im not 100%. Ill have a good looksee in the morning.

I have a NOS tank, case and a few other parts. Im going to be swapping the crank and stuff into the NOS case. Its should be a fun build. Sounds like it's going to be interesting too  lol.


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## husq2100 (Mar 10, 2012)

komatsuvarna said:


> I have a NOS tank, case and a few other parts. Im going to be swapping the crank and stuff into the NOS case. Its should be a fun build. Sounds like it's going to be interesting too  lol.



Tanks and cases seem to float about....its the other things, the small things that are hard to find :msp_mad: Im guessing your NOS case doesnt have any case bolts with it??? If you are using the ones from your exsisting saw, there may be a small chance they arent the right length. When you get to that point post up the part# from the NOS case and we will try and work it out. Also becareful changing over the tank vent and the manual pump stuff if these arent in the NOS tank...those bits, once again very very hard to come by.


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## Joe46 (Mar 10, 2012)

husq2100 said:


> Looks like the 7th av mount (out front) was introduced around 1980. At the same time there was a change to the exhaust outlet on the "Jungle" type muffler.
> 
> How did that bad boy run after the carb mods? Where was this dealer located? what did you use the saw for? Does he have any NOS parts left haha :msp_w00t:



It pulled stronger in the cut. It was in Port Angeles, Wa. I cut timber on the Oympic Peninsula with it:hmm3grin2orange: Sadly he died of heart problems many years ago. He was an ex faller that got busted up pretty bad so went into sales and repair.


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## Logger4Life (Mar 10, 2012)

I am pretty sure that Ed heard did get the saws that I am talking about new. But I very well could be wrong about the jungle badged saw having a thin ring piston it very well could have been a thick ring piston. We got on the subject of 2100's when I was talking to him about building a stroked 395xp with a 2100 thin ring piston that I have I actually own 1 brand new one and 2 good used thin ring 2100 slugs and and enough new rings to last awhile in a saw.
So I guess it will be a 3100xp thin ring LOL. HUSQ2100 thank you for the info.
Jay


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## komatsuvarna (Mar 10, 2012)

husq2100 said:


> Tanks and cases seem to float about....its the other things, the small things that are hard to find :msp_mad: Im guessing your NOS case doesnt have any case bolts with it??? If you are using the ones from your exsisting saw, there may be a small chance they arent the right length. When you get to that point post up the part# from the NOS case and we will try and work it out. Also becareful changing over the tank vent and the manual pump stuff if these arent in the NOS tank...those bits, once again very very hard to come by.



Nope, no bolts with the new case. Ill see if I can't check into it a little deeper tomorrow. I haven't looked much, but it looks like that manual oil pump stuff could be a ''trick'' to do! Is most of the parts for these saws NLA?


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## husq2100 (Mar 10, 2012)

Logger4Life said:


> I am pretty sure that Ed heard did get the saws that I am talking about new. But I very well could be wrong about the jungle badged saw having a thin ring piston it very well could have been a thick ring piston. We got on the subject of 2100's when I was talking to him about building a stroked 395xp with a 2100 thin ring piston that I have I actually own 1 brand new one and 2 good used thin ring 2100 slugs and and enough new rings to last awhile in a saw.
> So I guess it will be a 3100xp thin ring LOL. HUSQ2100 thank you for the info.
> Jay



or you could go the other way, put a 3120 crank in a 2100....sleeper  a few guys have done it.


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## husq2100 (Mar 10, 2012)

komatsuvarna said:


> Nope, no bolts with the new case. Ill see if I can't check into it a little deeper tomorrow. I haven't looked much, but it looks like that manual oil pump stuff could be a ''trick'' to do! Is most of the parts for these saws NLA?



There are a few parts still available new form places like Baileys. Gregg is currently processing an order for me. I spent the last 3 day researching part#s and imputting them into there system to see what comes up, also Gregg has done some searching for me. But there are more parts NLA than available....:msp_mad: but that is life. 

If anyone has a smaller combustion chamber cylinder, some pics and measurements would be awesome. Also if there are any cylinders made by Mahle or Galardoni (spelling?) 

Cheers,
Serg


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## komatsuvarna (Mar 10, 2012)

husq2100 said:


> There are a few parts still available new form places like Baileys. Gregg is currently processing an order for me. I spent the last 3 day researching part#s and imputting them into there system to see what comes up, also Gregg has done some searching for me. But there are more parts NLA than available....:msp_mad: but that is life.
> 
> If anyone has a smaller combustion chamber cylinder, some pics and measurements would be awesome. Also if there are any cylinders made by Mahle or Galardoni (spelling?)
> 
> ...



I'd hate to try to start one if it had any smaller a combustion chamber :hmm3grin2orange:. They're pretty ruff to get turning as is. 

My old case halves and the NOS case halves has the same part numbers, so the bolts should be good right? I'll probably do a thread on my build if I have the time too.


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## husq2100 (Mar 10, 2012)

komatsuvarna said:


> I'd hate to try to start one if it had any smaller a combustion chamber :hmm3grin2orange:. They're pretty ruff to get turning as is.
> 
> My old case halves and the NOS case halves has the same part numbers, so the bolts should be good right? I'll probably do a thread on my build if I have the time too.



Looks like the change came in mid 1984? Husqvarna state that there is NO change in crankcase reference numbers. The bottom 2 of the 6 bolts around the oiler postion, holding the case halves together, should be 5mm longer than the others on your exsisting 1985 saw. If they are to long for your new case, you will need to source 2 shorter types, or maybe even cut down yours, if the design allows???


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## Mo. Jim (Mar 10, 2012)

komatsuvarna said:


> So this is a jungle muffler right?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I have one of these mufflers and it has the port at the top of the muffler also,like the regular ones. I can't tell from your picture Durand if your muffler has the second port or not.


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## komatsuvarna (Mar 10, 2012)

husq2100 said:


> Looks like the change came in mid 1984? Husqvarna state that there is NO change in crankcase reference numbers. The bottom 2 of the 6 bolts around the oiler postion, holding the case halves together, should be 5mm longer than the others on your exsisting 1985 saw. If they are to long for your new case, you will need to source 2 shorter types, or maybe even cut down yours, if the design allows???



Im with ya. I noticed them 2 bolts was just a bit longer than ALL the other case bolts. Ill be sure to check that....If they're too long, Ill shorten them to the same length as the others.


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## komatsuvarna (Mar 10, 2012)

Mo. Jim said:


> I have one of these mufflers and it has the port at the top of the muffler also,like the regular ones. I can't tell from your picture Durand if your muffler has the second port or not.



Nope, Thats the only port on that muffler Jim.:msp_smile:


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## husq2100 (Mar 10, 2012)

Mo. Jim said:


> I have one of these mufflers and it has the port at the top of the muffler also,like the regular ones. I can't tell from your picture Durand if your muffler has the second port or not.



I dont think they ever came from factory like that. I think they were either top/side exit std, or bottom/front exit "Jungle". What you may have is a modded 2101 std muffler. The 2101 standard muffler had a flat square section where the "louvre" exhaust would be fitted, the earlier 2100's did not, they just had full ribbing. So maybe someone got the std 2101 muffler and added the louver??

there have also been aftermarket mufflers available, maybe these where made like that???


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## sachsmo (Mar 10, 2012)

*Quack Quack*

Jungle Duck?


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## Mo. Jim (Mar 10, 2012)

I went and checked this muffler and it looks factory. It is missing the plate,but the indent for it is stamped in the muffler. AM? mabey,but it is a duel port This is going on a 2100 thin ring that I'm trying to get rebuilt for the Mo. gtg next month.


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## turtle561 (Mar 10, 2012)

this is a tilly 136c w/ governor valve on a 298xp- my 2100cd has a 136e wo/governor





to disable gov block hole #4 which dumps fuel into venturi and causes it to 4stroke-limiting rpms





punch out a disc of thin copper or aluminum pie tin to block #4-a dab of grease will keep it on the end of the valve til you screw it back in.leave the original sealing ring in place. holes #3 must remain unobstructed for normal fuel flow.


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## husq2100 (Mar 10, 2012)

Mo. Jim said:


> I went and checked this muffler and it looks factory. It is missing the plate,but the indent for it is stamped in the muffler. AM? mabey,but it is a duel port This is going on a 2100 thin ring that I'm trying to get rebuilt for the Mo. gtg next month.



When you say it is missing the plate, do you mean just the louvre plate? is there an actual hole into the muffler at the front? Can you post some pics? This could become a good reference thread.


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## husq2100 (Mar 10, 2012)

Turtle561, good stuff again mate. Do you know if the HS 136E came original on your 2100cd? I can only find listings for HS 136C right through, including all the 2101's


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## Mo. Jim (Mar 11, 2012)

husq2100 said:


> When you say it is missing the plate, do you mean just the louvre plate? is there an actual hole into the muffler at the front? Can you post some pics? This could become a good reference thread.



Yes the louvre plate and fire screen are missing,the hole and indent look factory stamped. I will try and get a friend to take and post some pictures the first of the week.


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## turtle561 (Mar 11, 2012)

husq2100-i think my saw is one of the hybrids you talked about. it does have the two long case bolts on the bottom you mentioned. the i.d. plate is missing.
the 136e is the carb that was on it. i have only had it 2 years. the full # is hs136e724.


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## dynodave (Apr 28, 2012)

*HUSKY 56x40 & Rev#*

HUSKY 56x40 & Rev#

1100CD-73-03 #
1100CD-75-08 #
1100CD-76-11 #
2100CD-76-12 @
2100CD-78-01 @	
2100CD-78-09 @	
2100CD-79-06 @	
2100CD-79-12 @	
2100-82-11 %	
2100-83-11 %	
2100-84-04 %	
2100-85-8 %	
298XP-86-4 *	
298XP-87-1 *	
2101-87-4 &	
298XP-87-6 *	
2101-89-02 &	
2101-90-6 &

Mufflers

501 29 47-01 # FR
501 48 61-01 #@% screen-baffle-cover SFF
501 57 29-01 #@% side exit-screen
501 59 52-01jungle early baffle-cover 

503 17 28-01Jungle late %& cover
503 41 69-01 * SFF screen
503 41 69-02 * SFF open
503 53 06-01 &	screen baffle cover *baffle&cover?
503 53 06-02  *& screen

I agree the could become a good reference thread for this family/series of saw.
I recently received a sealed bag NOS 503 17 28-01 Jungle muffler.
In trying to describe what has evolved I need to describe these devices some how.
There are at least two pressings/cans. Do some of these have a sheet metal heat sheild /cover??

The early fully ribbed"FR" cans( or are these a cover???) and the later square front face. "SFF"
I have no access to any mufflers except 2... so most of the details will have to come from you guys...so please offer some details if you have a stash of components.

Here is my initial suppositions.
2 main styles of pressings. "FR" & "SFF" There may be a third since husk2100 says there is a 10mm thicker package???of what style???

Looking through the IPL of all these machines It seems the regular (non jungle) SFF is with spark screen, baffle, and the louvered cover. First version of jungle removed the screen. second version of jungle like the one I just got... lacks the screen and baffle. It only has the louvered cover.
Therefore IMO the SFF does not mean it is a jungle muffler.

The unpunched SFF mufflers (503 41 69-01 * screen) have the side exit or without a spark screen (503 41 69-02 * open) both were offered only on the 298. 

Well according to the IPL, the 3rd rev of 298 came standard with the 3 prong 2101 starter. I've acquired the 3 leg starter components and flywheel so I'll be putting them on soon.

Unfortunately my 2nd rev 298 XP does not look so nice on the piston.


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## Real1shepherd (Mar 21, 2014)

I'd sure like to see this thread keep going. I bought all my 2100's from Bailey's when I was loggin' back in the day in the PNW and CO. This was before anybody thought about 'collecting' and getting down and dirty about internal part differences. I quit loggin' before the 2101 came out. I always specified NO chain brakes from Bailey's, which I think meant that the clutch covers were different from models with chain brakes. It's hard to rethink what I knew about the saws back in the day, versus what I understand about them now....especially chasing down unobtainium parts today. I do know that once when we were chasing down a ignition module back in the day, the XP designation came into play. On a good day on the phone if you were lucky, you could chase down a regional rep for Husky. He told me that the XP modules had a hotter spark...designed for saws in the PNW and places where high humidity was always present. Then it seems all the saws I bought were XP. There was a # difference in the IPL...that's why we dug around to find the difference. 

Only mods we ever did to the 2100 were the gov mod and modified mufflers. Basically on the gov mod...between the tiny copper washer and the gov, you fitted a piece of metal the size of the gov base. Some guys liked to brag they punched the metal out of a beer can, I chose to use copper shim stalk. Some guys just put in a Welsh plug to cap the hole the gov went in, but we didn't do that. 

Kevin


----------



## sachsmo (Mar 22, 2014)

I see the pic is gone of my'jungle duck'.

I have the louvers and formed screen to put it back to stock, but was playin' with brazing different types of metal.

This Muffler came on an 1100 from the U.P. damned good running saw, but the plastics are stained and faded.

Of the 2 1100s, and 2 2100s in me stable, all have the 'thick rings?

Yes the 'early mufflers' were not as deep as the later ones my other 1100 has a 'shallow' muffler with the top side exit.


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## Real1shepherd (Mar 22, 2014)

Interesting looking muffler. I guess I always had the "early" 2100's. Always had the thin style muffler with heat shield, the 'hoodie' and the spark arrestor. Have an original set of tools too except for the orange handle, carb screwdriver.


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## Real1shepherd (Mar 22, 2014)

What I don't understand now....originally, there were two different caps(oil & gas) by part #'s. I don't understand what the difference is supposed to be between them....like one vented, one not...or slightly different profile? Like most 2100's mine have been used hard through the yrs and I was never particular about getting the exact same part, unless it was critical. So, I don't have two original caps to compare anymore.......

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Kevin


----------



## ozflea (Mar 22, 2014)

Maybe the Jungle bit could be that the muffler was fitted new with a spark arrestor most operators may have removed such as they carbon up over time and kill performance


----------



## Real1shepherd (Mar 22, 2014)

In the pics I posted, the spark arrestor was screwed inside the 'hoodie'....I wonder how they did that on the 'jungle' type.

Kevin


----------



## High-Wall (Aug 15, 2014)

Has anyone been able to tell a power difference between the 2100 standard muffler and the jungle muffler?


----------



## lefturnfreek (Aug 16, 2014)

Am I seeing this right, huge saw with 3/8 ths on it, not 404...?


----------



## SawTroll (Aug 16, 2014)

ozflea said:


> Maybe the Jungle bit could be that the muffler was fitted new with a spark arrestor most operators may have removed such as they carbon up over time and kill performance



As far as I know, the "jungle" mufflers tend to be the most open ones, with no baffles or screens, and they tend to have quite large tube type outlets. In other words, more about the "needs" of the saw, and less about the environment around the saw.

I am sure there are exceptioms though.


----------



## Real1shepherd (Aug 16, 2014)

ozflea said:


> Maybe the Jungle bit could be that the muffler was fitted new with a spark arrestor most operators may have removed such as they carbon up over time and kill performance



Actually with use, the spark arrestor screen just burns away. I never had one carbon foul/plug or cause any trouble that way. When I was loggin' still, we ran up to six foot bars with nothing but the Tillotson governor blanked off and muffler mods. But it's been so long, I don't exactly remember how they did the muffler mods back then. And no, we didn't think we were damaging the environ with these saws until the EPA saw fit to pick on chainsaws...ridiculous. 

Kevin


----------



## blk05crew (Oct 5, 2015)

I'd like to see this thread continue as well. I've just recently acquired my first 2100 CD and have been trying to learn as much as I can about them. 
The ID tag on mine is missing so I don't know what the year is but here are some pics and info that might help others. (It was originally a thick ring piston that was scored but an NOS thick ring piston was put in to replace it.) Has regular style muffler and no chain break. Who know about originality, I'm certainly not the original owner.


----------



## Real1shepherd (Oct 5, 2015)

Nice ol' 2100. If it had no chain brake, chances are it was set-up and sold as a power head to us loggers here in the PNW. Nothing really pops out at me about dating the saw, but figure late 70's, early 80's. If that's the correct-to-the-saw AF cover, that has to be an early XP...70's. Most of them had a blue XP logo on the top rear of the cover, centered with the holding screw. But you can only be sure of the saws original parts if you talk to and buy from an original owner. Plastic parts were replaced all the time and where therefor updated...like the blue logo XP.

Somebody may have thought they had a better idea with that wingnut mess, but having a scrench handy for a screw head is the usual way. All its original composite wrap is missing from the full-wrap.

Kevin


----------



## blk05crew (Oct 5, 2015)

Real1shepherd said:


> Nice ol' 2100. If it had no chain brake, chances are it was set-up and sold as a power head to us loggers here in the PNW. Nothing really pops out at me about dating the saw, but figure late 70's, early 80's. If that's the correct-to-the-saw AF cover, that has to be an early XP...70's. Most of them had a blue XP logo on the top rear of the cover, centered with the holding screw. But you can only be sure of the saws original parts if you talk to and buy from an original owner. Plastic parts were replaced all the time and where therefor updated...like the blue logo XP.
> 
> Somebody may have thought they had a better idea with that wingnut mess, but having a scrench handy for a screw head is the usual way. All its original composite wrap is missing from the full-wrap.
> 
> Kevin



Well I am in the PNW and purchased it from a guy here so you're probably right there. Like I said who know what on it actually came on it. Thanks for the info though on the year guess. I do need wrap the handle with something before too much use.


----------



## Real1shepherd (Oct 5, 2015)

blk05crew said:


> Well I am in the PNW and purchased it from a guy here so you're probably right there. Like I said who know what on it actually came on it. Thanks for the info though on the year guess. I do need wrap the handle with something before too much use.



Most everything is NLA on this saw...it's a pity because I ran many of them and always thought it was a near perfect design. I'm working with a member on a 394, which along with the 3120, replaced the 2100/2101. I have no idea if I'm even gonna like the 394...suspect so.

I was told that Stihl offers two sizes of handle wrap. I guess they're real whores to put on and you need the use of lube and an air compressor. Somebody on AS had documented this, but the pics were lost during the hack.

If you haven't been told the story yet....the reason why this was a nearly perfectly executed saw from the get-go, was that Husky sent a factory engineer over here with a bunch of 2100 prototype saws. He spent months in the woods with PNW loggers and listened to their complaints & suggestions. This was pre-production.....the production saws had all the tweaks and changes.

Oh and another tidbit....I had a module fail early on with a saw....so my dealer found out there were two offered. One was the CD and the other was the XP designation. We had no idea of the difference and so the dealer talked to a rep who was in charge of west coast sales...all of it. He said the XP designation meant 'extra power' and was designed around a hotter spark to start wet saws in the PNW. Now....you may hear a lot of other BS stories on what it means, but that came from the horse's mouth.

Kevin


----------



## blk05crew (Oct 5, 2015)

Real1shepherd said:


> Most everything is NLA on this saw...it's a pity because I ran many of them and always thought it was a near perfect design. I'm working with a member on a 394, which along with the 3120, replaced the 2100/2101. I have no idea if I'm even gonna like the 394...suspect so.
> 
> I was told that Stihl offers two sizes of handle wrap. I guess they're real whores to put on and you need the use of lube and an air compressor. Somebody on AS had documented this, but the pics were lost during the hack.
> 
> Kevin



Thanks, I'll have to see what I can figure out.


----------



## Real1shepherd (Oct 5, 2015)

blk05crew said:


> Thanks, I'll have to see what I can figure out.



I had an idea once that if it wasn't too rough on the hands, that bedliner stuff you paint on would be durable enough. Jonsered used a substance once that wasn't really paint, but wasn't really an anodized finish either....kind of a flat black finish that worked well. On the J'red site here, we can't figure out what that black was exactly. 

Correctness be damned....you just need something that has good grip wet and feels good on your hands all day.

Kevin


----------



## blk05crew (Oct 5, 2015)

Real1shepherd said:


> I had an idea once that if it wasn't too rough on the hands, that bedliner stuff you paint on would be durable enough. Jonsered used a substance once that wasn't really paint, but wasn't really an anodized finish either....kind of a flat black finish that worked well. On the J'red site here, we can't figure out what that black was exactly.
> 
> Correctness be damned....you just need something that has good grip wet and feels good on your hands all day.
> 
> Kevin



That's not a bad idea, probably wouldn't be too bad with the right gloves.


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 5, 2015)

blk05crew said:


> That's not a bad idea, probably wouldn't be too bad with the right gloves.



Yeah, I was thinking if you could get it thin enough with some random bumpiness...not sand like...but smallish bumps. I usually wear cotton fallin' gloves anyway....Madsen's or Bailey's...actually I'm boycotting Bailey's. Last guy on the phone there said I was runnin' "antique" saws and needed to buy all new.

I've got this old, giant Grumman canoe that has a bump finish I painted on the bottom(inside) exactly like the original. I even went back to the marine store I bought it from and the guy said there was never such a thing. It would be perfect for a saw if I could find it again but I can't fix stupid counter guys.

Kevin


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## blk05crew (Oct 5, 2015)

Real1shepherd said:


> Yeah, I was thinking if you could get it thin enough with some random bumpiness...not sand like...but smallish bumps. I usually wear cotton fallin' gloves anyway....Madsen's or Bailey's...actually I'm boycotting Bailey's. Last guy on the phone there said I was runnin' "antique" saws and needed to buy all new.
> 
> Kevin



He must not appreciate things built the right way to last! Not saying new saws are built last I don't have any experience with new saws.


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## dynodave (Oct 5, 2015)

"dealer talked to a rep who was in charge of west coast sales"

Not sure I'd be believing what comes out of a horses butt. I worked as a field service engineer and had to fix what "salesmen" and reps promised or said.... I learned real quick to be a cynic about dealers, even factory reps who are baby sitters and when required ....paid liars. But working for the "company" I had to keep my mouth shut...

Sure 3 electronic different ignitions and all the associated bits like flywheels. See the timing of release of the ignitions in 83 and then 3 years later the XP's came out.
atlanticgreen.com/images/H-56mmx40mmparts.xls
But the XP seemed to start with piston version #5....not the ignition change.
Big discussion on another thread that seems to have merit. Especially about the transitional 2100CD going to 2100XP before 2101XP came out.


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## moondoggie (Oct 5, 2015)

*Maybe???? *

*Bar Wrap/Grips*




*Perforated Wrap*




*DRiVe Wrap*



*Bar Wrap*



*Shock Wrap with Gel*


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 5, 2015)

dynodave said:


> "dealer talked to a rep who was in charge of west coast sales"
> 
> Not sure I'd be believing what comes out of a horses butt. I worked as a field service engineer and had to fix what "salesmen" and reps promised or said.... I learned real quick to be a cynic about dealers, even factory reps who are baby sitters and when required ....paid liars. But working for the "company" I had to keep my mouth shut...
> 
> ...



Except that it was the late 70's when we did this, not the 80's and the XP module was already in the IPL that the dealer had. So you're trying to say that the Husky regional rep was making this shite up? No discussion now has merit unless you're talking to people back then in the know who worked on and sold parts for the 2100's. There's obviously more to it than you think if the XP module was listed in the late 70's and available, because I bought that one and installed it without incident or flywheel change etc. Granted, I knew then about a third of what I know now about saw internals. But I do remember the order and install. 

Kevin


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 5, 2015)

moondoggie said:


> *Maybe???? *
> 
> *Bar Wrap/Grips*
> 
> ...


So I'm wondering how you finish the wrap...tuck it in somehow? Glue will be real iffy in that environ with gas & oil mix, tree pitch etc.

OK, I just followed the links, that's bicycle wrap and cork at that(the bar wrap). I can tell you the self-adhesive stuff won't hold up to oil & gas. I have cork tape on my bikes...it won't hold up to this environ. It barely holds up very long to sweaty hands.

Had me excited there for a minute...thought this was something to do with chainsaws....lol!

Kevin


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## moondoggie (Oct 6, 2015)

Real1shepherd said:


> So I'm wondering how you finish the wrap...tuck it in somehow? Glue will be real iffy in that environ with gas & oil mix, tree pitch etc.
> 
> OK, I just followed the links, that's bicycle wrap and cork at that(the bar wrap). I can tell you the self-adhesive stuff won't hold up to oil & gas. I have cork tape on my bikes...it won't hold up to this environ. It barely holds up very long to sweaty hands.
> 
> ...


My mind thought it could work.... Didn't know... I saw a friend wrapping his road bike years ago and that gave me the idea.


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 6, 2015)

moondoggie said:


> My mind thought it could work.... Didn't know... I saw a friend wrapping his road bike years ago and that gave me the idea.



Good idea...just too light weight for this environ. Somebody _could_ make some chainsaw bar wrap if they wanted to, outa some high-tech polymer whatever. Surprised it hasn't been done, because Stihl markets the only bar tubing left, that I know of. And I sure ain't no Stihl fan....lol

Kevin


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## blk05crew (Oct 6, 2015)

I'm still liking the idea of bed liner, I'm going to see if I can find some in a spray can.


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## dynodave (Oct 6, 2015)

Real1shepherd said:


> Except that it was the late 70's when we did this, not the 80's and the XP module was already in the IPL that the dealer had. So you're trying to say that the Husky regional rep was making this shite up? No discussion now has merit unless you're talking to people back then in the know who worked on and sold parts for the 2100's. There's obviously more to it than you think if the XP module was listed in the late 70's and available, because I bought that one and installed it without incident or flywheel change etc. Granted, I knew then about a third of what I know now about saw internals. But I do remember the order and install.
> 
> Kevin


Last comment on this ..I don't want to be argumentative. 4 (5 with early 298XP) systems in the IPLs. 73-78 FEMSA, 78-79 SEM1A, 81-82 SEM1B, 83-90/end SEM2 during XP era. All the parts of the late 70's IPL were GONE buy the XP era mid 80's on. I do believe you and it was probably a SEM item. Did they give you a 1983 item in the late 70's? who knows....I still don't trust or believe salesmen.
"trust but verify"


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 6, 2015)

dynodave said:


> Last comment on this ..I don't want to be argumentative. 4 (5 with early 298XP) systems in the IPLs. 73-78 FEMSA, 78-79 SEM1A, 81-82 SEM1B, 83-90/end SEM2 during XP era. All the parts of the late 70's IPL were GONE buy the XP era mid 80's on. I do believe you and it was probably a SEM item. Did they give you a 1983 item in the late 70's? who knows....I still don't trust or believe salesmen.
> "trust but verify"



It was a SEM's module...other than that, I can't argue yrs because that was the only module failure I ever had. I understand your mistrust of salesmen and reps. I certainly had similar experiences in cars/trucks.

Kevin


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## Rx7man (Oct 6, 2015)

blk05crew said:


> I'm still liking the idea of bed liner, I'm going to see if I can find some in a spray can.


I wouldn't go with any spray can stuff.. you NEED a 2 part urethane or epoxy if you want it to hold up.. all spray can stuff will get eaten by fuel as it hardens by solvent evaporation.. the 2 part stuff chemically hardens.

Of course buying a bedliner kit to do one saw is a bit overkill, though perhaps if you had a truck to do (especially a shortbox), you'd have some left over for the saw.


----------



## blk05crew (Oct 6, 2015)

Rx7man said:


> I wouldn't go with any spray can stuff.. you NEED a 2 part urethane or epoxy if you want it to hold up.. all spray can stuff will get eaten by fuel as it hardens by solvent evaporation.. the 2 part stuff chemically hardens.
> 
> Of course buying a bedliner kit to do one saw is a bit overkill, though perhaps if you had a truck to do (especially a shortbox), you'd have some left over for the saw.



Good to know thanks. My truck is already bed lined so I may have to find out a different option. I probably won't be using the 2100 a ton, more occasionally so I might be able to get by like it is if I pick up some good gloves. I'll probably just try that first.


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 6, 2015)

Rx7man said:


> I wouldn't go with any spray can stuff.. you NEED a 2 part urethane or epoxy if you want it to hold up.. all spray can stuff will get eaten by fuel as it hardens by solvent evaporation.. the 2 part stuff chemically hardens.
> 
> Of course buying a bedliner kit to do one saw is a bit overkill, though perhaps if you had a truck to do (especially a shortbox), you'd have some left over for the saw.



Good to know about the rattle can liner....sounds like a convenience compromise. Wouldn't they sell small cans for touch-up etc?

Kevin


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## Rx7man (Oct 7, 2015)

Perhaps an auto body shop would have some left over? Would be the first place I'd look


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## blk05crew (Oct 7, 2015)

Don't know if this helps, but here is a pic of the flywheel on mine and it also has the SEM coil which I had to patch and put liquid electrical tape on last night.


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 7, 2015)

I get better luck with Permatex Auto Ultra Black silicone than I do the liquid electric tape. I use them both, but only the Ultra Black product if the joint has to flex. The liquid stuff has failed me when the joint had to be moved around. That Ultra Black stuff is almost indestructible....adheres like crazy and you'll pay the Devil to remove it. 

Supposedly, there is a marine version of the liquid tape, but I've never used it.

Kevin


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## blk05crew (Oct 7, 2015)

Well it flexes pretty good and seems to seal well. 
On another note, I need to lengthen my plug wire, I'm assuming I can splice another plug wire on to make it longer? I've got another plug wire from an older poulan top handle saw, but it looks like a tad bigger guage, will it work to splice on?


----------



## Real1shepherd (Oct 7, 2015)

blk05crew said:


> Well it flexes pretty good and seems to seal well.
> On another note, I need to lengthen my plug wire, I'm assuming I can splice another plug wire on to make it longer? I've got another plug wire from an older poulan top handle saw, but it looks like a tad bigger guage, will it work to splice on?



I've always started over with plug wires...meaning I get as close to the source as I can if I splice. Electrically, going from a smaller gauge to a larger gauge shouldn't present a problem. But with electronic modules, it would be better to stick to the original gauge. There's a certain resistance by length etc....not sure I'd try to do something non-factory there. You take out that module and they run over $100 used and about $150-$200 NOS. 

Kevin


----------



## blk05crew (Oct 7, 2015)

Real1shepherd said:


> I've always started over with plug wires...meaning I get as close to the source as I can if I splice. Electrically, going from a smaller gauge to a larger gauge shouldn't present a problem. But with electronic modules, it would be better to stick to the original gauge. There's a certain resistance by length etc....not sure I'd try to do something non-factory there. You take out that module and they run over $100 used and about $150-$200 NOS.
> 
> Kevin



Thanks, I don't really have a choice though, for some reason the plug wire was shortened at some point and its really too short. 
Amy other model saws have compatible coils?


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## VinceGU05 (Oct 8, 2015)

i got one also just recently.. but very unwell.
















The muffler has 85/100 up on the top left of it.. not sure if that has something to do with manufacturing date or not.

but inside shes ugly as a red headed step daughter!


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 8, 2015)

Uggg...parts saw. I'd even check the crank for wear....a lot of damage there. She's had a tough life fer sure....muffler bolts _were _hex head with a locking tab.

Kevin


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## blk05crew (Oct 8, 2015)

VinceGU05 said:


> i got one also just recently.. but very unwell.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Looks decent on the outside, lots of good parts on it though.


----------



## VinceGU05 (Oct 8, 2015)

Real1shepherd said:


> Uggg...parts saw. I'd even check the crank for wear....a lot of damage there. She's had a tough life fer sure....muffler bolts _were _hex head with a locking tab.
> 
> Kevin



I got to split it as it leaks bar oil on the floor. Will do bearings and seals. Found a jug. Got a piston coming. It had a Golf piston in it. But I don't think that is the reason for the grenading.


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 8, 2015)

VinceGU05 said:


> I got to split it as it leaks bar oil on the floor. Will do bearings and seals. Found a jug. Got a piston coming. It had a Golf piston in it. But I don't think that is the reason for the grenading.



Are you sure the tank assembly isn't the leaker? They are KNOWN to leak over time...especially from the oil tank. Ask me how I know about those stupid tanks...or better yet, ask me to count the spares that I have in boxes from the paranoia....lol

Kevin


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## VinceGU05 (Oct 8, 2015)

some one has epoxy glued the whole seam underneath so just suspected it was from there.

edit: just looked on the IPL. i see the tanks are separate from the crank area. it could be leaking from the long skinny cover plate on the recoil side. wiped it all dry.. will check tomorrow for fresh oil trails.


----------



## SawTroll (Oct 9, 2015)

VinceGU05 said:


> I got to split it as it leaks bar oil on the floor. Will do bearings and seals. Found a jug. Got a piston coming. It had a Golf piston in it. But I don't think that is the reason for the grenading.



It actually looks like it is debris from a broken piston that has made most of the damage, so the cheap piston may well be the culprit.


----------



## VinceGU05 (Oct 9, 2015)

SawTroll said:


> It actually looks like it is debris from a broken piston that has made most of the damage, so the cheap piston may well be the culprit.


All the tell tale signs I see is she was running lean as! 

Exhaust side 





Inlet side 





Interesting muffler 





The muffler inlet is white and so was the spark plug. She was hot !!!


----------



## SawTroll (Oct 9, 2015)

Yes, and for way too long. Air leak, lean carb setting, or plugged fuel supply - or a combination.


----------



## VinceGU05 (Oct 9, 2015)

The guy I bought it off "rebuilt the carby." 





Wonder if all mufflers are like this. With the cover on there ? 





Nuts in there ready.


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## VinceGU05 (Oct 9, 2015)

doesn't look like junk after a blast.


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 9, 2015)

I'd be very surprised if the crankcase was leaking...mostly the tanks leak. I was cleaning my tank out and used a air compressor to try and dry it out faster on the oil side. POP...went the tank and the seal was compromised. I tried everything to bond back the halves. In the end, I cleaned the surfaces and re-bonded the halves with a commercial epoxy(rated much higher than JB Weld).....it lasted for six months and started leaking again. I didn't feel too bad for making the tank leak because in my research, these tanks are leaking often as they get old.

Kevin


----------



## Real1shepherd (Oct 9, 2015)

VinceGU05 said:


> The guy I bought it off "rebuilt the carby."
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 The cover was a heat shield...common type. There are thin mufflers and fatter mufflers. And of course the jungle muffler....the purpose of this thread. There might have been at least four variants in the IPL....don't remember exactly. I've got a baffle loose in one of mine rattling around. 

Kevin


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## dynodave (Oct 9, 2015)

Real1shepherd said:


> The cover was a heat shield...common type. There are thin mufflers and fatter mufflers. And of course the jungle muffler....the purpose of this thread. There might have been at least four variants in the IPL....don't remember exactly. I've got a baffle loose in one of mine rattling around.
> 
> Kevin


There are 9 muffler part# in the IPL's SEE here if interested:
atlanticgreen.com/images/H-56mmx40mmparts.xls


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## dynodave (Oct 9, 2015)

vinceGU05
I'm far from an expert on these things, but I have been studying. It seems that is 1100/early 2100 piston, full skirt around the bottom plus the ring locating pins are on the front. Later pistons had the pins on the intake side...I wonder why? It seems now guys that buy early pistons put them in backwards with the pins on the intake side. I know I would.....


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## blk05crew (Oct 9, 2015)

So the 2100 I've been working on had a scorched piston, thick ring which is the first picture. I replaced it with an NOS thick ring piston, second picture. I don't know if they are early or late versions but maybe someone else knows.


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## dynodave (Oct 9, 2015)

Nate
If my studying is correct.....
Both yours are early ...you can see the full skirt at the bottom of the piston below the wrist pin. 
The late XP (not jungle) piston did not have the skirt below the wrist pin. Plus the "windows" would be tall and straight not shaped like a coma. The episan I have...I believe is like the XP. The more common golf piston, marked as 2101, clearly is like the 1100 and early 2100. Ring locating pins are spaced differently also.


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## blk05crew (Oct 9, 2015)

dynodave said:


> Nate
> If my studying is correct.....
> Both yours are early ...you can see the full skirt at the bottom of the piston below the wrist pin.
> The late XP (not jungle) piston did not have the skirt below the wrist pin. Plus the "windows" would be tall and straight not shaped like a coma. The episan I have...I believe is like the XP. The more common golf piston, marked as 2101, clearly is like the 1100 and early 2100. Ring locating pins are spaced differently also.



Cool, good info Dave, thanks.


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## VinceGU05 (Oct 9, 2015)

dynodave said:


> Nate
> If my studying is correct.....
> Both yours are early ...you can see the full skirt at the bottom of the piston below the wrist pin.
> The late XP (not jungle) piston did not have the skirt below the wrist pin. Plus the "windows" would be tall and straight not shaped like a coma. The episan I have...I believe is like the XP. The more common golf piston, marked as 2101, clearly is like the 1100 and early 2100. Ring locating pins are spaced differently also.


So is there a better one to have ie the non skirted one later one in any of these saws ?
Is there a performance or reliability gain?


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 9, 2015)

dynodave said:


> vinceGU05
> I'm far from an expert on these things, but I have been studying. It seems that is 1100/early 2100 piston, full skirt around the bottom plus the ring locating pins are on the front. Later pistons had the pins on the intake side...I wonder why? It seems now guys that buy early pistons put them in backwards with the pins on the intake side. I know I would.....



I probably could never find it again, but there was an article on 'why' the ring pins were moved to the intake side. However, there was always supposedly an arrow etched on the top of the OE piston that showed orientation. I've only worked on the 2100's internally in the last 12 yrs. When I was using them professionally, if were were having any kind of compression loss or jug failure, they got dumped and we bought new. There was no reason not to think that better saws were always down the road. Apparently all my 2100's are early, because I've never seen the pins on the intake side. 

Husky beefed something up too later on in the 2100 crank dept....don't remember what.

Kevin


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## blk05crew (Oct 9, 2015)

The NOS one I put in had the arrow on top to show which side went forward.


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 9, 2015)

blk05crew said:


> The NOS one I put in had the arrow on top to show which side went forward.



Yep, toward exhaust. Somewhere in the bowels of these saw forums are the reasons they switched the pins toward the intake and what they beefed up in the 2100/2101 design. It's really only important if you're installing aftermarket stuff. There's been a couple of folks who installed the piston wrong(or a wrong piston) and grenaded the jug. 

Now, if I could just find a real hard copy of the 2100 Service Manual, I'd be in Heaven. I've looked so long, I've about given up. Lost one at auction in eBay for $50. I had one once and it was lost/stolen. All the digital copies online have their pics looking like melting chocolate bars.

Kevin


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## dynodave (Oct 10, 2015)

Real1shepherd said:


> snip
> It's really only important if you're installing aftermarket stuff. There's been a couple of folks who installed the piston wrong(or a wrong piston) and grenaded the jug. Kevin



Well at the recent ebay $500 NOS P&C price, I would not be inclined to put the pins on the front, no matter the little arrow, where with decades of experience coming out and the factory realizing they made a mistake. After market now copy the old factory stuff good or bad and now can't even label them correctly on the box. Golf calls it 2101 but is clearly the first style piston.
Wrong piston?........how about putting a C grade piston in a A grade bore????? Even the 1980 shop manual tells you that is a NO NO....Maybe my shop manual is no good due to the chocolate smudges.
And I would still suggest deburring the exhaust port to prevent the ring catching.
I guess I'll get to try all this out on my 298XP. The piston is a bit ugly in the port. I have no idea of the history of work (or butchery) previously done to this engine. It is at least twice as hard as my stock 2100cd to pull over. I'll have to borrow my friends bore gauges so I can see if there is a size mismatch. Of course running the engine lean to over 1300 EGT is a formula for disaster as shown above...


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 10, 2015)

dynodave said:


> Well at the recent ebay $500 NOS P&C price, I would not be inclined to put the pins on the front, no matter the little arrow, where with decades of experience coming out and the factory realizing they made a mistake. After market now copy the old factory stuff good or bad and now can't even label them correctly on the box. Golf calls it 2101 but is clearly the first style piston.
> Wrong piston?........how about putting a C grade piston in a A grade bore????? Even the 1980 shop manual tells you that is a NO NO....Maybe my shop manual is no good due to the chocolate smudges.
> And I would still suggest deburring the exhaust port to prevent the ring catching.
> I guess I'll get to try all this out on my 298XP. The piston is a bit ugly in the port. I have no idea of the history of work (or butchery) previously done to this engine. It is at least twice as hard as my stock 2100cd to pull over. I'll have to borrow my friends bore gauges so I can see if there is a size mismatch. Of course running the engine lean to over 1300 EGT is a formula for disaster as shown above...



I dunno dude, seems like you're spoiling for a fight. I've probably used these saws new professionally in big timber, more than anybody on this forum. But as I said, I've only been inside these saws in the last 12 yrs because parts have become an issue and I can't just go 'buy' one in perfect shape anymore for a reasonable amount of money. Do what you gotta do...I've never had one with the pins in the front that I know of. If you have an original shop manual, the pics should be fine. All the CD's offered online and the PDF's are trash as far as the pics....if you've ever had the real SM, you know that.

Kevin


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## blk05crew (Oct 15, 2015)

Picked this up today for pretty cheap. Thin ring, piston is shot as you can see. I need to take off the cylinder and see if it can be saved. Not sure what to do with this one, picked it for parts really since no decent aftermarket p/c are available. Save it for parts or try and and find a p/c for it? Thoughts?


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## 54stude (Oct 15, 2015)

blk05crew said:


> Picked this up today for pretty cheap. Thin ring, piston is shot as you can see. I need to take off the cylinder and see if it can be saved.



See if it has spark first, and if it does, see if the cylinder cleans up before you order a piston. I would have purchased that one also, looks pretty good!


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## blk05crew (Oct 15, 2015)

54stude said:


> See if it has spark first, and if it does, see if the cylinder cleans up before you order a piston. I would have purchased that one also, looks pretty good!



Yes it does have spark and I will see how the cylinder looks, I've cleaned up a few before. I heard the aftermarket pistons aren't that great though.


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## blk05crew (Oct 16, 2015)

Did very many of these 2100's come with chain breaks?


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## blk05crew (Nov 17, 2015)

What kind of compression number do these 2100's usually have for a good runner?


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## blk05crew (Dec 19, 2015)

On the 2100 with the regular, non-Jungle muffler, is it really necessary to have the heat shield piece on front of the muffler? Doesn't seem like it would do much. Just asking cause mine is missing.


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## 71dart (Dec 19, 2015)

I've got a 2101 with the non jungle type muffler and there's no heat shield. And it runs nice. I do love the sound of 'em.


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## VinceGU05 (Dec 20, 2015)

blk05crew said:


> On the 2100 with the regular, non-Jungle muffler, is it really necessary to have the heat shield piece on front of the muffler? Doesn't seem like it would do much. Just asking cause mine is missing.


i made my muffler into a jungle type.. so the outer cover is gone now.. it wouldnt be necessary to have it.. would be only for safety i reckon.


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## dynodave (Dec 21, 2015)

I guess I don't understand.
If you have a front exit muffler with 3/with outer baffle & inner baffle & screen, it is not a jungle.
first version of jungle is same muffler 2/with outer baffle & inner baffle without screen.
second version of jungle muffler is 1/with outer baffle without inner baffle without screen.
None of the above front exit mufflers use the outer cover/shield as used on a side exit muffler.
A side exit muffler is not....can not be a jungle.
This is what I believe according to my research and the labeled oem parts I've purchased.


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## blk05crew (Dec 21, 2015)

VinceGU05 said:


> i made my muffler into a jungle type.. so the outer cover is gone now.. it wouldnt be necessary to have it.. would be only for safety i reckon.



Thanks, I didn't think it was really necessary. I'll still keep my eyes out for one though.


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## flying pig (Sep 30, 2016)

Old thread, but I hope my onsite here can help someone. I'm not a small engine guy but I am a pro heavy duty mechanic. I've been working on and learning about 2100s for a few months.

I have a gulf piston in mine currently. The locating pins go to the intake side. The reason is simple and straight forward. Grab your piston assembly. Look at the location of the pins. If they centre over a port in one orientation and do not in the other orientation then it goes the way they don't centre over a port. If the ring ends are over a port they will open when crossing the port catching the port and tearing the ring land off like the piston in the picture a few pages back.

Other than that, this is a good thread with lots of good info. My 2100 was my Dad's. He fell for P&G for 11 years. He bought it new in 1984 or 5 I believe. It has the jungle muffler, but had a different type of piston I haven't seen online before. It is much lighter with huge ports, but has the 1.5mm rings. The intake manifold failed on it and it cooked that piston and cylinder. I've contacted a few places that will repair and re nicasil these cylinders for $300, so don't throw them out if they are pooched. May not be worth it yet but in another ten years...


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## SawTroll (Sep 30, 2016)

blk05crew said:


> Did very many of these 2100's come with chain breaks?



At least originally, it was an option - and when they became mandatory differed between markets.


Btw, do you have a picture of the serial number plate of that saw (and/or the one that is for sale)?


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## Real1shepherd (Sep 30, 2016)

blk05crew said:


> What kind of compression number do these 2100's usually have for a good runner?



150PSI to work properly.

Kevin


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## Real1shepherd (Sep 30, 2016)

flying pig said:


> Old thread, but I hope my onsite here can help someone. I'm not a small engine guy but I am a pro heavy duty mechanic. I've been working on and learning about 2100s for a few months.
> 
> I have a gulf piston in mine currently. The locating pins go to the intake side. The reason is simple and straight forward. Grab your piston assembly. Look at the location of the pins. If they centre over a port in one orientation and do not in the other orientation then it goes the way they don't centre over a port. If the ring ends are over a port they will open when crossing the port catching the port and tearing the ring land off like the piston in the picture a few pages back.
> 
> Other than that, this is a good thread with lots of good info. My 2100 was my Dad's. He fell for P&G for 11 years. He bought it new in 1984 or 5 I believe. It has the jungle muffler, but had a different type of piston I haven't seen online before. It is much lighter with huge ports, but has the 1.5mm rings. The intake manifold failed on it and it cooked that piston and cylinder. I've contacted a few places that will repair and re nicasil these cylinders for $300, so don't throw them out if they are pooched. May not be worth it yet but in another ten years...



Just as an FYI and a cautionary tale....folks who have had this done report indifferent quality. It would seem that spending the $300-$400 to have the plating done does not guarantee you anything. I can assure you that plating the occasional cylinder from random chainsaw collectors is about as important to them as a coffee break. They're looking to do lots and numbers where they can control quality better. Still, that's no excuse for a poor plating job.....which is the point-you're risking your money in this venture.

Kevin


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## flying pig (Sep 30, 2016)

Maybe Kevin, but one of the companies I approached has done some pretty bad cylinders for me from sleds and even matched porting at no additional cost. One had a dropped sleeve skirt and was repaired, and I'm sure you can picture what that looked like.


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## Real1shepherd (Sep 30, 2016)

DO list the contact info and the site if you would. We NEED good references in this game. I would have a couple of cylinders done If I thought I would get a square deal and not have to sweat the quality of the work.

Kevin


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## flying pig (Sep 30, 2016)

http://www.cvtech-aab.com/en/

$289 Canadian was the quote they gave me. I messaged them through email, may have deleted the email.


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## Real1shepherd (Sep 30, 2016)

flying pig said:


> http://www.cvtech-aab.com/en/
> 
> $289 Canadian was the quote they gave me. I messaged them through email, may have deleted the email.


So you have significant positive feedback from this service? (Thanks for the link.)

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk


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## flying pig (Sep 30, 2016)

Yup I've never had a bad one from them. I used them for cylinders on an 800 Polaris and on my 800 Polaris based 1200 triple. The worst was the one that dropped the cylinder skirt. It stopped the crank dead. They welded it up and re plated it and sent it back. As far as I know it's still going.


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## Real1shepherd (Sep 30, 2016)

Awesome. What I've heard about some of these plating services is that the plating is not visibly uniform and that when measuring the cylinder top to bottom, they are wholly inconsistent.

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk


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## flying pig (Sep 30, 2016)

Bernard's cylinders have been good enough in my experience that I've never even thought of measuring them. A few friends who build sled engines here use them too and I've never heard them have anything negative to say. If I had the extra $300 lying around I'd send my poor condition 2100 cal out just to see.

I've seen cylinders re sleeved especially with big bore sleeves come out poorly, even from some of the bigger performance shops. Things like ports being covered by the sleeve etc. I don't know enough about it to say why the cylinders are coming out poorly after coating, but maybe those shops are simply coating over previous wear with no thought to machining the cylinder to a uniform size I.e. To bore to the point of max wear before coating back to size. Maybe that's what is going on. Max wear should be at the top of ring travel, in your experience with those cylinders is that what you were finding?


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 1, 2016)

Yes, most of the wear appears at the top. I measure the middle and bottom as well...measuring four points around the bore.

No for the money, the consumer should expect a near perfect job. I don't think it's rocket science....especially for those who coat these day in and day out.

When you can find a 2100 NOS jug, you're going to pay about this anyway.

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk


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## flying pig (Oct 1, 2016)

Definitely, I lucked out with a near new condition cylinder a few weeks ago @$150


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 1, 2016)

Wow.....good snag!

When I went through my old 2100, polished and measured the bore, it was in incredible condition given its tough work life. I replaced one crank seal and that shaft seal & O ring on the other side. Not crazy about that arrangement.....would like to have just the two crank seals to replace as in most saws. Gonna have to do a vacuum and pressure test now, because the saw isn't running right.... Tried two different carbs.

Very frustrating and I need that saw for a larger scale job. Time on a bench is really tough for me right now and nobody around here I'd let touch that saw.

Kevin 

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk


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## flying pig (Oct 1, 2016)

I did a carb kit in mine a while ago, trusted the dealer when they told me an rk-23hs kit changes up to an rk-21hs. Well, it doesn't. Saw would run wayyy fat on top and lean down low and all over the place. Moving the needle lever off floor plate height would move the rich/lean condition but it never could be tuned right out. I gave up and found a 23hs kit and voila! Good as new on the first crack.


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 1, 2016)

flying pig said:


> I did a carb kit in mine a while ago, trusted the dealer when they told me an rk-23hs kit changes up to an rk-21hs. Well, it doesn't. Saw would run wayyy fat on top and lean down low and all over the place. Moving the needle lever off floor plate height would move the rich/lean condition but it never could be tuned right out. I gave up and found a 23hs kit and voila! Good as new on the first crack.


Wow.......makes me wonder if I got the right kit either. I haven't been paying enough attention to those kits other than the carb-to-manifold gasket is completely wrong in the kit and doesn't cover up the impulse channel. I found the right Husky gasket for that.

You give me hope! What you describe is exactly what the saw is doing...un-tunable. Carb is off anyway...I'll look for the correct kit, thanks!

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk


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## flying pig (Oct 1, 2016)

I lucked out and found a NOS tillotson carb kit at a local dealership, last one they had. I put it in just the way it came and that saw has never ran better since I've had it. And that's saying something as it only has 110lbs of compression when it's hot right now.

Dad said when he'd start having troubles with the carb he'd order 6 kits and then mix and match bits until one worked properly. He said that if it started good but wouldn't tune he would only change the metering side out. If it ran good but wouldn't start well he'd do the pump side only. Makes sense I think. Seems overkill to change parts that much, but it could have been that he didn't know why it was doing things so just changed stuff till it went right.


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## flying pig (Oct 2, 2016)

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Husqv...3D112149759886&_trksid=p2056116.c100408.m2460

This might help someone out. Cylinder looks like it may have a mark or two in one pic but maybe not


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 2, 2016)

Cylinders are almost impossible to photo inside. I just ignore Net pics unless there's an outstanding flaw apparent. I don't see any apparent aluminum transfers...but my eyes aren't the best. Good deal I think with all the parts including the oiler. 

After I polished my cylinder and put in Cabers, I only got about 155lbs/psi. But then I haven't been able to run a lot of tanks through it because it's misbehaving. They can run on less...witness yours. 

When I was logging, I'd put a kit in once a yr...whether it needed it or not. There's not much to them, so I never would piece meal the service. But then I was used to rebuilding all makes of four barrel carbs for friends & racers. Often that tiny screen under the Welsh plug is clogged. This is probably a shot in the dark, but hope that the OEM Tilly kit will work. I suspect the Chinese have gotten into this and are putting out carb kits.

Kevin


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## president (Oct 2, 2016)

Real1shepherd said:


> Yep, toward exhaust. Somewhere in the bowels of these saw forums are the reasons they switched the pins toward the intake and what they beefed up in the 2100/2101 design. It's really only important if you're installing aftermarket stuff. There's been a couple of folks who installed the piston wrong(or a wrong piston) and grenaded the jug.
> 
> Now, if I could just find a real hard copy of the 2100 Service Manual, I'd be in Heaven. I've looked so long, I've about given up. Lost one at auction in eBay for $50. I had one once and it was lost/stolen. All the digital copies online have their pics looking like melting chocolate bars.
> 
> Kevin


Kevin,


Real1shepherd said:


> Yep, toward exhaust. Somewhere in the bowels of these saw forums are the reasons they switched the pins toward the intake and what they beefed up in the 2100/2101 design. It's really only important if you're installing aftermarket stuff. There's been a couple of folks who installed the piston wrong(or a wrong piston) and grenaded the jug.
> 
> Now, if I could just find a real hard copy of the 2100 Service Manual, I'd be in Heaven. I've looked so long, I've about given up. Lost one at auction in eBay for $50. I had one once and it was lost/stolen. All the digital copies online have their pics looking like melting chocolate bars.
> 
> Kevin


kevin ,go to www.mymowerparts.com .you will see a side bar with parts manuals downloads
they are free .in the husky files I think 92000 or close is the free immediate copy.Unlike STIHL
husky thinks that tyhe guy in the field might just want to know how to get them up and back into
service .just keep opening the files until this model appears. good luck


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 2, 2016)

president said:


> Kevin,
> 
> kevin ,go to www.mymowerparts.com .you will see a side bar with parts manuals downloads
> they are free .in the husky files I think 92000 or close is the free immediate copy.Unlike STIHL
> ...


The Internet copies are garbage....even the pay downloads. The pics look like they were dropped into a vat of chocolate. It's as if there was one poor, original copy and everyone piggy backed off that one.

No shortage of 1100CD hard copy manuals out there...have one of those.

I also have two huge Husky workshop manuals that cover all model changes and factory fixes....but the SM's are not included in there.

A guy downunder linked me to a place that had the SM in PDF with usable pics for the 2100. Like I said, gave up on the hard copy.

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk


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## Real1shepherd (Oct 2, 2016)

Also, I encourage everyone to use the 'redneck' cylinder test when evaluating pistons. Turn the cylinder upside down withe the sparkplug still in place...drop the piston minus the rings into the cylinder. If it floats to the bottom, the piston is good.... just clean it up. If it just goes kerplunk, toss it. Assuming your cylinder is decent.

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk


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## flying pig (Dec 31, 2016)

Well, time for another update. I'm quite into 2100s now and more so all the time. I bought a second one that runs like new. It's a thick ring with the standard side exit muffler. It has no brake and a full wrap. This saw is Strong. With a 36" bar and chisel skip on it it's really hard to stop the chain even dogging in like a prybar.

I bought the thin ring folklore and pulled the gulf piston and scratched jug off Dad's saw and lucked out with a very lightly used thin ring C sized piston for my C sized jug. There is a small molded in cap in the cases over one of the ignition screws that has to be clearanced on a non thin ring case in order to use that piston. It all fit up well.

I had previously pulled dad's welch plug governor block out when the carb kit was flustering me so it wasn't blocked. Let's just say that I definitely will be re blocking it. From some reading I've done, it appears the gains the thin ring make are all in high rpm. This saw is a dog compared to the thick ring. I'm hoping it wakes up with the governor blocked, or it was a total waste of time and money going to the thin ring for a work saw. It's making about 150# compression with this combo and both piston and cylinder are as new. Seat of my pants, the old cylinder with the gulf piston and 135# compression made as much or more power, and the thick ring saw flat out decimates it. Could just be that the old girl is a dog and that's how she is now. But considering out of all the 2100s he had this is the one he kept, I would say it's a change I've made that's done it.

Anyway, other things I've found by trying the different options on the two saws:

The half wrap bar makes the saw feel much more solid in the hands. But that saw vibrates more. (Could be the factory grind on Oregon 58L too. Try it with my grind on it tomorrow).

The jungle muffler is extremely quiet to operate compared to the side exit. This was dad's reason for purchasing this muffler to be installed on his saws. He wouldn't take a 2100 with a side exit. Also he told me until the end of his falling career the saws up here in northern Alberta came with no brake. He always was required to purchase the brake and cover and have them installed on his saws as it was a WCB requirement by then.

On a side note, crank seals are just standard metric seals and can be purchased from local suppliers. I've also found that a Cat 6v9746 oring works for the seal on the outside of the oil pump. I've run a few tanks through using them and there's no leaks.


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## Marshy (Dec 31, 2016)

This has a lot of good info in it. Thanks for sharing.


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## Real1shepherd (Jan 1, 2017)

I can tell ya that back in the day, the thin ring 2100's didn't hold up on the loggin' shows...many expiring before the season ended. Most of us were using PowerPunch @40:1. I will concede that some knotheads were convinced to run at like 16:1 still in those days with regular oils. It's very possible that with the thin rings, if too thick an oil mix was used the pistons lands would gum up with coke/carbon and the rings would stick...letting blow-by and reduced compression happen.

We didn't keep data or records then....we just got pissed, drew out own conclusions and bought another saw.

I never saw a jungle muffler on a 2100, but I have a J'red 80 I've used all these yrs that has one. We always had our mufflers modified and blanked the govs on the 2100's when we ran big bars. When I got down to 42" and smaller, I didn't bother.

The thin rings revved crazy fast because of the reduced friction, but they weren't running circles around the standard ring saws and causing any of us to pause in admiration. If you wanted a hot-ass saw in those days, you got a Walkerized saw.

Kevin


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## flying pig (Jan 1, 2017)

There was a Walkerized 2100 on kijiji about 2 months ago @$600. Probably would have been a fun saw.


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## Real1shepherd (Jan 1, 2017)

The younger family members are doing it now. I don't know what that means....since I'm not loggin' anymore, I get zero professional feedback. I suspect they still do a good job or they would be butchered all over the Net by other builders and customers. Everybody thinks they can build a saw these days....not for me they don't.

Kevin


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## Marshy (Jan 1, 2017)

Real1shepherd said:


> I can tell ya that back in the day, the thin ring 2100's didn't hold up on the loggin' shows...many expiring before the season ended. Most of us were using PowerPunch @40:1. I will concede that some knotheads were convinced to run at like 16:1 still in those days with regular oils. It's very possible that with the thin rings, if too thick an oil mix was used the pistons lands would gum up with coke/carbon and the rings would stick...letting blow-by and reduced compression happen.
> 
> We didn't keep data or records then....we just got pissed, drew out own conclusions and bought another saw.
> 
> ...


Cool, thanks for sharing. It's always fun to hear about the good ol'days especially when it involves one of these iconic saws.


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## flying pig (Jan 1, 2017)

One of the guys who runs lowbed for the company I work for used to deal with Walkers a lot when he was logging down on the coast. He had nothing but good things to say about them as well. Their reviews on the internet are still 5 star, so maybe the new generation is just as good.

Glad to have found this thread. Still learning a ton about these old girls every time I work on one or sign on to research them. Nice having someone on here with a ton of first hand experience with them too Kevin. My Dad's memories of them never really grew from an operator's view to a collector's view. He had one mechanic up here he trusted with his saws and that fellow had free reign, Dad just wanted them as fast as he could have them reliably: they were paid by the butt.


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## Real1shepherd (Jan 1, 2017)

Thanks guys...love to share stories about using the 2100 back in the day in the PNW. However, they are my stories and not necessarily shared by everyone else in that period. I always worked gypo...mostly because the money and pace were much different than like working for Crown Zellerbach et al. I tried working for a few of the big union houses, but it drove me nuts. Gypos though are a mixed bag for sure., There were plenty of times that I had to chase down my money Friday night, or given some lame excuse why there wasn't any money etc. That got worse as I moved over to CO. Anyway, my memories are slowly fading and my experiences quite different than say a RandyMac, who was a bit before me in the woods and had some affiliation with the Park Service etc. To him, the big Homelites & Macs took the most scale...to me the 2100's did. His ilk did take the majority of OG Dougs, but not all of them. My belief is that the commercial loggin' shows peaked in the late 70's and early 80's and that's when the most scale was taken(not necessarily the biggest trees). And the 2100 had a huge part of that in the PNW.

I shied away from the big Alders whenever I could. The reasons being the trees would sometimes barber chair or slab on your back cut. That's when you needed a hot-rod saw that wouldn't stall out and could keep pushing the RPM's to the end. We were paid by the load in gypo loggin';they had separate piles on the landing to go with each faller. I don't remember how the big shows worked it when they had a separate buckin' crew. We got a check based on how our loads scaled out at the mill.

And yeah, most of us did day to day maintenance on our saws, but left any serious internal stuff to a saw shop guy or as in some cases, the loggin' company themselves might have a guy that just repaired saws at a central location....I never had much luck with them, but close associations with saw shop repair guys. Honestly, the big saws were nothing to us but tools. We expected them to get better & better and never had a reason to stop and collect them. I sold my worn saws to firewood gatherers and they were happy to pay well for them. You know what they say about hindsight......

For fallers, the real money was in right-of-ways....where they clear-cut for utilities. I wished I had just stayed with that....but a young man most often wants adventure and variety, not security...lol.

Kevin


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## kevin j (Mar 7, 2017)

Have read many threads. Posting my Q’s here as seems like the most info kept all in one place.

10 years ago I bought a Grandberg mill off CList for $75. Pic showed a Husky saw, which I wanted because the bar would fit my Dolkita. Owner said saw was seized, shop said not worth fixing, so he threw it in for free. Turned out to be a 2100 CD. Almost perfect bore and piston, and not seized, just worn out rings from bad air filter conversion. Shop pulled the intake, never pulled muffler. Dumb shop was my benefit.

After reading all the variations of this series, I decided it dig it out and start a rebuild. Don’t need a big saw, won’t be milling now, and it is mainly for fun. I want things done right, but won’t be a restoration or a production hard working machine.

So, here is what I have, and my questions:
1. PARTS SOURCES? Baileys has a few parts, Scott/Chainsawr has a few. I don’t trust most ebay sellers. Anyone here recommended suppliers or have parts?

2. PRODUCTION DATE for 2100CD, sn 5312819 Electrolux era

3. RINGS. ‘Thin rings’ B tolerance piston and cylinder in great shape and tolerances. Light gouge on intake from ingesting sawdust, no damage on exhaust. Rings are .33 mm thick (high) and 1.6 mm radial. Everything I find is listed 1.5 mm, which I assume are the ‘thick rings’. Since the piston matches the cylinder tolerance, I’d like to use it over and not buy a new ‘one size fits all’ piston. Where can I get thin rings, small end bearing 17x13x17 and circlips (those should be easy).

4. CARB PARTS for Tilly HS136C, with governor, which matches the manuals. Where can I get a full kit with gaskets, needle and seat, welch plugs and screens, and maybe governor parts?
-Is there any adjustment of the governor, or should I block it off?
-I saw discussion of HS149 carb used on some models, or maybe it was retrofitted. I have access to a 149. What are the differences, and should I consider changing? Do they use the same kits and parts?

5. FUEL TANK VENT ASSEMBLY is broken up. Any parts out there? Or can I install a grommet and small line and use some other vent?

6. FUEL LINE, WITH MOLDED GROMMETS seems ok, but source for new one? I think Baileys had this. Fuel filter appears typical replacement..

7. MAIN BEARINGS are good, but carboned/sawdusted really badly, and numbers aren’t readable. Seem to be standard 6203 C3. Sound right?

8. SEAL, FW SIDE seems like industrial standard.17x28x5 seal plus dust lip. Correct? or source?

9. SEAL,PTO SIDE on both sides of the oil pump, and the large oring/felt ring/rubber seal? on clutch side. Shown in manual but mine didn’t have it.

10. OIL PICKUP AND FILTER shows in manual, but I appear to have hose only. Source for new? 
Edit: Solved. Found a pickup strainer that fit.

11. OIL PUMP ADJUST Manual describes two setting pump but not how to change the adjustment. Also, two different pump volumes listed. Anyone know the difference in construction and can a small one be modified to the larger delivery?

12. OIL PUMP SEAL for the two tiny in & out ports between pump and case. Mine missing. Were they small orings, or a gasket, or ??

13. EXHAUST GASKET MATERIAL to use? Std muffler, not jungle.

14. CLUTCH in manual refers to 1 mm of friction material. Mine is metal only, three shoes, about 1 mm radial clearance and looks like that is correct.

15. OUTER COVER WEAR PLATE missing. Looking for that.

16. DOGS, both missing. Probably removed for milling.

17. TOP COVER AND AIR FILTER missing. Has carb adaptor for round foam filter for milling, so I will probably just run that for now.

18. CHAIN BRAKE Have non brake cover, for milling. Would like to install a brake someday, but realize those cost more than I might have in the whole saw.

19. MANUALS needed. I have online links to good quality manuals, but can’t download or print. (The manualslib ones are almost worthless quality.) If someone has good files, or how to download certain files, I would appreciate.

Thanks for all I have learned and for all your time.

kevin j


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## beavis331 (Mar 7, 2017)

kevin j said:


> Have read many threads. Posting my Q’s here as seems like the most info kept all in one place.
> 
> 10 years ago I bought a Grandberg mill off CList for $75. Pic showed a Husky saw, which I wanted because the bar would fit my Dolkita. Owner said saw was seized, shop said not worth fixing, so he threw it in for free. Turned out to be a 2100 CD. Almost perfect bore and piston, and not seized, just worn out rings from bad air filter conversion. Shop pulled the intake, never pulled muffler. Dumb shop was my benefit.
> 
> ...


I'm in a similar position. I recently acquired a 2100 with spark and decent compression but otherwise pretty tough. Debating rebuilding it or holding on to it as a parts machine for another one down the road. Will be watching for the answers to your questions. Thanks for asking them!


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## Real1shepherd (Mar 7, 2017)

kevin j said:


> Have read many threads. Posting my Q’s here as seems like the most info kept all in one place.
> 
> 10 years ago I bought a Grandberg mill off CList for $75. Pic showed a Husky saw, which I wanted because the bar would fit my Dolkita. Owner said saw was seized, shop said not worth fixing, so he threw it in for free. Turned out to be a 2100 CD. Almost perfect bore and piston, and not seized, just worn out rings from bad air filter conversion. Shop pulled the intake, never pulled muffler. Dumb shop was my benefit.
> 
> ...




Kevin,
I'll take your points one by one and if I skip one, it's because I don't wanna just guess.

1. There are people all over the country hoarding NOS and used NLA Husky parts. Supposed to be a guy in Michigan that has a ton of older Husky parts.....I've lost that info. What you're going to find out if you haven't already, is that many collectors are selfishly petty about their sources....even if they have enough stuff already for many saws to come.

2. The 2100CD ended production around 1987 and then the 2101XP replaced it. SawTroll might be able to give you exact dates.

3. The rod bearing is easy to find on eBay and from a variety of vendors. However, suspect Chinese. Be better to go to a bearing house and have them duplicate if possible. The wrist pin, good luck...it's total NLA unobtainium. Thin rings....are a joke. As I said in a previous post, nobody was running circles around us using thin rings in big scale. Now, due to the scarcity and cost, they are a fool's errand. If I had your saw, I'd get another standard piston and enjoy Caber rings. It's purely braggin' rights now like who has the biggest you know what. If you could find some thin rings cheap enough, clean up your piston and sell as a set...for the *BIG* bucks...you'd have money to buy the parts you really need.....lol.

4. Lots of 'imitation' carb kits out there...I've used them. Better to get a real Tilly kit and they turn up on the bay quite often. The governor is not adjustable. You can fashion a thin shim (loggers used to brag about using a beer can) from brass etc and place it between the crush washer and the gov unit. Don't use that diamond shaped carb to intake gasket they give you....it doesn't cover the impulse channel completely and your saw will run untuneable. The correct gasket is still out there as a Husky part.

5. Tank vent is pure unobtainium. I gave up finding one. Eccentric over on the pig site posted a fix in the Husky thread. Essentially, it's buying some vent off eBay for like a weedeater and riggin' it to fit. Works like a champ.

6. Lots of these all over eBay....again, suspect Chinese. The last ones I found were OE from ebay. Fuel related parts seem to last a long time if not used....I wouldn't fear NOS, but would used. Most everyone is using disposable filters. I'd rather clean an OE type.

7. Crank bearing are all over eBsay as well. Again of dubious provenance. Wash the bearings from the inside and the outside with saw mix gas. Crank your compressor down to 40-60psi to help blow crap out.

8 & 9. Seals-again, go down to bearing shop with one. On the other side with the oiler assembly, you have a small shaft seal and an O-ring. The small seal is a bit tricky to get into place because it keeps trying to fold. I used a long socket that fits over the shaft to help....some people are said to wrap a thin piece of 35mm film around shaft and then slide the seal w/oiler assembly over it, pull out the film. Seems like a long way around the barn rather than straight through it.

11. You get to the oiler housing and there is a screw that goes into one of two positions. Just download the Owner's Manual and you'll see the process. I never ran less than the high setting. Sometimes on a long cut, I had to use the manual oiler too. If you ever have gas leaking into yout oil, it's because some numbnuts didn't know there is an O-ring that goes on the bottom of the manual oiler as it slides through the gas tank and seats against the case.

12. It was a gasket. Some places like ereplacement.com still have parts like this. Some guys just JB welded the whole assembly into place...dumb.

13. Exhaust gasket material (metalized) can be bought at like NAPA....cut & punch your own.

14. Again, refer to original Owner's Manual.

15. Not sure what part you are referring to? Have a #?

16. Dawgs are available on eBay and custom as well. I used the 2100 factory template dawg to make the same pattern for some of my old J'reds.

17. Air filters run around $30 and are plentiful. Top covers are scarce in good condition and crazy priced. Unlike with Stihls, the Chinese are not making cosmetic plastic parts for the 2100. Pity, I think it would be a good market for them.

18. I never had a chainbrake on any of the 2100's I used loggin'....can't help ya there.

19. I've been looking for a hardcopy Service Manual for the 2100 for about eight yrs...good luck. There is the perpetual one on the Net you can download for free (or actually pay), where all the pics look like they've been dipped in chocolate. A friend downunder linked me to a site that had a decent PDF of the Service Manual. PM me for that if you want......(this is *NOT* and invite for 30 people to immediately ask for same).

In closing, I *HATE* that Electrolux Group AB sought to make this great saw just a relic from the past and not support it anymore.

Kevin


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## flying pig (Mar 7, 2017)

To ad to Kevin's post, the o ring for around the pump: I used a Cat 6v9746 on my 2100 rebuild. Been going strong for a few months now. They require a small stretch to fit but have a good seal and are the best quality o ring available.


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## Real1shepherd (Mar 7, 2017)

flying pig said:


> To ad to Kevin's post, the o ring for around the pump: I used a Cat 6v9746 on my 2100 rebuild. Been going strong for a few months now. They require a small stretch to fit but have a good seal and are the best quality o ring available.



I got lucky...one of the other O-rings on the manual oiler itself is the right one...I had a spare oiler. This is good to know....I tried all the standard meteric O-rings to no avail. 

Kevin


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## Real1shepherd (Mar 8, 2017)

beavis331 said:


> I'm in a similar position. I recently acquired a 2100 with spark and decent compression but otherwise pretty tough. Debating rebuilding it or holding on to it as a parts machine for another one down the road. Will be watching for the answers to your questions. Thanks for asking them!



I have one in the same shape...been debating for yrs on whether to keep it a part's saw and cannibalize from it......or restore back to woods shape. I hate paying all these stupid prices for 2100 parts. It's driven me to want a 394, which is a very close relative, but you can still get most parts for it. Forced to run a 394 because I can't get parts for a 2100 reasonably.....how fuc*ed up is that?

Kevin


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## flying pig (Mar 8, 2017)

Real1shepherd said:


> I have one in the same shape...been debating for yrs on whether to keep it a part's saw and cannibalize from it......or restore back to woods shape. I hate paying all these stupid prices for 2100 parts. It's driven me to want a 394, which is a very close relative, but you can still get most parts for it. Forced to run a 394 because I can't get parts for a 2100 reasonably.....how fuc*ed up is that?
> 
> Kevin


Tell me about it. I did a decent restore on Dad's saw and wound up with about $700 into it. Then I lucked out and found a second 2100 on kijiji for $240, put a tank on it and a 36" bar and 404 chain on it and away we go.


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## Real1shepherd (Mar 8, 2017)

flying pig said:


> Tell me about it. I did a decent restore on Dad's saw and wound up with about $700 into it. Then I lucked out and found a second 2100 on kijiji for $240, put a tank on it and a 36" bar and 404 chain on it and away we go.



Would be very easy to dump $700 for parts into one of these saws at today's prices. I scoured craigslist for yrs looking for decent 2100's. Clapped out loggin' saws starting at $375. Even went to look at one a long way away....couldn't even start and the guy wouldn't back off a penny. "I can get $400-$500 on eBay"...yeah well, then do it and pay their fees, deal with a buyer who's not happy with a clapped out loggin' saw and has buyer's remorse. Which translates into a full refund through PayPal and probably the seller paying for the shipping back.

Great score on the kijiji saw! Nice to deal in the real world away from eBay's artificial reality. The gas/oil tank on these saws now has become problematic after all these yrs. The bonding agent they used for the two halves is letting go. Was not an issue during the normal working life of the saw. Now it is because of their age. I've written about a fix in AS, but nothing that will last long term. A friend on AS found a bonding agent specifically for magnesium. It might be worth a try...after my debacle, I'm not so inclined.

Kevin


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## flying pig (Mar 9, 2017)

I have a friend who's really into metallurgy as well as being a ticketed millwright and heavy duty. He says the tanks are weldable and lucky for him I have two that leak for him to try it on.


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## Real1shepherd (Mar 9, 2017)

flying pig said:


> I have a friend who's really into metallurgy as well as being a ticketed millwright and heavy duty. He says the tanks are weldable and lucky for him I have two that leak for him to try it on.



Mag is weldable...I watched a tutorial on it. Let me know how that goes, if he would consider doing more and would it help to basic prep first etc before sending. Oh and an idea on $$$....of course...lol. The only critical part of the seam is for the oil/gas tank...past that area and it really doesn't matter. Just need a continuous weld for the fluid sections.

Then you have the issue of repainting to cover the work done. I'm not satisfied that anyone repaints these saws to the durability of the original paint....which was probably baked onto the mag in special ovens. The shelf queen collectors claim they can clear coat for durability over quality paint etc. I'm not convinced their paint jobs would hold up in day to day hard use. Be happy for somebody really knowledgeable on gas/oil rated paint to prove me wrong. I'm guessing your only real options here are auto paint?

Kevin


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## flying pig (Mar 9, 2017)

That's what I was wondering too. I wonder if Endura can be husky color matched, if not there's powdercoat


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## Real1shepherd (Mar 9, 2017)

The only issue with powder coating is the range of colors available. I've seen like a Hemi Orange...not sure anything matches the earlier OE orange color. And I think there was even a shift in the Husky Orange from the older saws to newer saws. Seems like the newer stuff has more red, less orange. 

Kevin


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## kevin j (Mar 12, 2017)

First, thanks to all for the help and interesting history..

I have sourced many parts I thought would be hard to find, and dead ended parts I thought might be easy. Met a good dealer parts guy who sold and serviced them new, very helpful. I have my normal connections at bearings and seals place. So here are my loose ends:

-MANUALS: I have had online sources with quality images, but can’t download or save or print for some reason. I can look at on the phone, but would like to have permanent paper notebook copies. I am old school.

-SN AND DATE: Can anyone date my sn 5312819 Electrolux era, silver tag. Clearly a 5 in front, not an 8. I have IPLs from 78 to 83 so can check parts easily and make sure the numbers have not changed.

-PISTONS AND RINGS are the snag: Meteor doesn’t make, haven’t found source for Episan. Caber has rings if I can get a good piston. I don’t have machining capability to sub in another Husky piston. Checked ebay, the greek, LilRedBarn, some UK sources, and some others. Lots of no name china kits. This won’t be worked much, but I don’t want to risk the cylinder by using poor piston.

What are thoughts on VEC, Golf or LilRedBarn? Which is the better of the lowers? I’d use my OEM good shape thin ring piston again, but the only rings I found were $100 on ebay. I made him an offer, he countered at $95, so not going there. When the dust settles, I will have a good thin ring piston for someone.

-FUEL TANK VENT ASSEMBLY I’ve searched for eccentric on AS and ***, can’t find the post info. What is the pig site? Anyone know the (Echo was referred to one place) parts used for the changeout?

-OIL PUMP: Dealer had a NOS large oring. Previous poster, and kevin's comments, is that CAT number to replace the large pump oring, or for the smaller manual oiler orings? Good to have that info in the files.

Smaller tiny two hole seal for the in and out I can’t find, but can use 518 or RTV probably. I do have some thin N70 sheet that may fit thickness.

-OIL PUMP clutch side seal still has me much puzzled. I have a metal ring pressed into the outboard side of pump. Compared to the shape of the new plastic version of that ring, I can see the ID has been worn out a lot, so I can see how it goes. However, it seems like there needs to be another slinger ring, labyrinth seal, or Forsheda Vseal, or something to seal the sawdust out from the clutch side. IPL for the .404 clutch shows a cone shaped washer or slinger that would appear to be that function, but the 3/8 clutches don’t show it. Dealer IPL did not show anything. Anyone have memories, and part numbers, of what it was or of something that could work? Where does it seal on the oil gear or clutch hub?

Otherwise, I have about everything except piston sourced. Split a lot of saw and motorcycle engines, but I finally built a case splitter which worked great. Built a puller for reassembly, and ADHD kicking in about the project.

thks, kevin j


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## Real1shepherd (Mar 13, 2017)

MANUALS: I don't understand your problem there unless you don't have access to a desktop or laptop with a printer. Any PDF can be easily printed out and stapled into a book, or punched out for a ring notebook.

-SN AND DATE: Sawtroll(Niko) can help you date by SN.

-PISTONS AND RINGS: I already gave you my opinion on that. There is no significant woods working advantage of a thin ring saw over a standard piston ring saw.....it's all collector hype. If you could find some thin rings cheap enough, sell the piston and rings together on eBay. Take your profit and turn back into the saw. I see standard pistons (used) still around and you can ask all these parts vendors for them too...maybe they have a slug & jug that is toast....the jug is toast because of ring failure but the piston OK. Now if you're going to restore and flip the saw, it might pay to keep the thin rings and cash in on the hype. If you're going to use the saw hard, you'll not have any significant advantage. Modify the muffler, plug the gov and hang on...it's plenty of saw for anybody's needs in NA.

-FUEL AND TANK ASSEMBLY: It's a response to me over at the pig site by eccentric (Aaron) about a substitute for the OE gas tank vent. If I type out the pig site name, AS will redact it. I think it was an Eco vent and he told me how to rig it.

-OIL PUMP: I was talking about the small O-ring that goes on the bottom of the manual oiler and it seats against the oil part of the case, inside the gas tank. The large O-ring goes on the oiler assembly toward the saw.....Part #29-70-470-02. Also a little rubber flat seal Part #50 12 886-01 (don't use RTV sealer here, if you reuse the old one, use a good silicone grease). The oil pump inner shaft seal is Part #29 65 289-07. Without pics I can only confuse you more. And those Part #'s are from an original late 70's IPL hardcopy and probably superseded with newer #'s into the 2101.

Besides the three or so different pistons they used, the 2100 through the 2101XP are identical. (I'm not a 100% sure, but I think a SEM's module out of a 2101XP would work fine on a 2100CD...don't think there would be a timing issue or rev limiting problem etc. For that matter, a SEM's module out of an 1100CD might work as well.) Well...the later saws used a spring AV toward the bottom of the front case that many said were an 'improvement'...I don't necessarily agree with that.

Kevin


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## Real1shepherd (Mar 13, 2017)

Here's a drawing of the gov and two pics; one with a plug shim already cut and then where the gov is on the carb. The plug shim goes between the crush washer (not pictured) and the gov end (#4 in the drawing).






Kevin


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## flying pig (Mar 14, 2017)

The Cat part number I quoted was for the large outside oil pump o-ring. 

If I end up with one apart again I'll try to source the two smaller o-rings at the mine I work at. The have an o ring bin that is set up by measurement. Good chance the small ones are in there.


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## Real1shepherd (Mar 14, 2017)

Oh, I thought you were talking about the small O-ring for the bottom of the manual oiler. The larger O-ring for the oil pump assembly I was able to source @ereplacementparts.com last yr. It would be nice to find out what metric size the small O-ring is at the bottom of the manual oiler.

Kevin


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## kevin j (Sep 2, 2017)

Anyone have a good or new intake manifold plastic block? I posted in TrPost. I assume chainsawr has them, but used might be close to end of life. Any hope of any NOS, or any later H saws using this? I will call the H dealer next week, but I think there is more knowledge here. 

I have maybe 4 tanks on the saw in this thread, got harder and harder to tune. I did another P/V and found cracked manifold. Probably cracked a long time, but I didn't seeit when built the saw.

I suppose it could be dremeled out and glued, but I can't see anything that would stick to the oil impregnated plastic and not end up through tyhe engine.


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## Real1shepherd (Sep 2, 2017)

I doubt you would get anything to really glue there...it's probably not even plastic but a composite. There are composite glues now, but I wouldn't go down that rabbit hole. 

Kevin


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## flying pig (Sep 2, 2017)

I've been wondering about machining an aluminum sleeve for these. Wonder if it's doable? Our 2100 parts are finite so it might be worth a shot


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## Real1shepherd (Sep 2, 2017)

A sleeve instead of the whole intake block? I don't think I've ever seen a split one...where do they split usually? 

I had to give up using my 2100's for work over the parts issue. Screw you Electrolux Group AB, there still is a demand for parts. 

Kevin


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## kevin j (Sep 2, 2017)

I guess plastic is a generic term. It's probably a thermoset of some sort. but I also doubt that any type of glue would work.

sleeve is an interesting concept. Aluminum probably not good because of heat transfer. But a sleeve machined out of some kind a composite and then bore out the manifold and push the sleeve in. might be able to salvage cracked manifold assuming the pulse port was OK


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## flying pig (Sep 2, 2017)

I wonder if teflon of some kind would work? It machines nice when it's frozen.


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## Real1shepherd (Sep 2, 2017)

Some good ideas there. I've never researched the thermal properties of Teflon. If the fit was tight enough, just some grade of Loctite that was fuel proof would work. You can make about anything out of Teflon hunks.

Super critical to use that proper Husky green gasket for the carb instead of that Mac diamond shape gasket in the Tilly kits. 

Kevin


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## kevin j (Feb 19, 2019)

Followup on 2100:
-yes the carb gasket is critical. Kit one covers the pulse port, and the space to edge is very thin to make one. I dremeled the pulse port in the plastic intake manifold to move it over a bit, and allow more paper between pulse hole and edge of gasket.
-Mine is going, just a toy. Ran maybe 10 tanks, including milling some pine logs. Love the idle sound.

-Never touched a Husky before. I learned so much from people here. I created my own notes files. Later, I did a search on AS and went through a few hundred lines of many threads, anything dealing with 2100, and gleaned anything I could for my files. A random collection of notes and pasted threads.
I finally got the file cleaned up and organized to be readable. This jungle type thread seems to have the most info on 2100, so I will attach here.
Take it with caution. Some are conflicting opinions. I am just the humble scribe and can't say which is right or wrong.

But here you go. 12 pages of notes. I also have IPL and manual files.


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## Real1shepherd (Feb 19, 2019)

From a guy that used the 2100 professionally in the PNW, you have a lot of errors and omissions. But other than countering point-by-point, I see no reason to say much other than this is a very good primer source of info for these saws in general, albeit not all together accurate in some regards. 

It would have been better for you if you had run this by someone (most likely retired) that worked primarily on large cc Huskies back in the day. You raise almost as many questions as you attempt to answer. I was a faller and when the saws would start to fail, new saws were bought, the old saws was serviced and then carried as back-up saws....then the next yr the back-ups were sold as firewood saws and the process started over again. To me they were just tools, with more always around the corner. It wasn't until 15yrs or so ago that I decided to 'collect' some saws.

There will always be interest in the 2100/2101 because it was a near perfect saw by design. But you had to be in decent timber and you had to have a portable kit of the pieces most likely to fail while working the saw hard. I always heard about shows where you'd drop your saw off after work and it would usually be fixed and ready the following day......from a small engine mechanic the co employed. I never had that option with any shows I worked for, but the rumors persisted.

Kevin


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## kevin j (Feb 19, 2019)

Pm me with errors and additions and I will gladly update and reattach the file.
I have no personal experience with them other than my own so everything was gleaned from AS posts. There are some contradictions so noted, and I am sure MANY gaps of missing info. It would be most helpful to everyone to have the file right.

Thks, kcj


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## Huskybill (May 31, 2019)

Lots of 2100 info here thanks guys. A quick way to plug the govenor is with a hole punch using plastic paper. (Shoooozzze all my four work saws had there govenors plugged)


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## Real1shepherd (May 31, 2019)

Lots of the guy bragged about punching out a plug piece from a beer can. I chose to use brass shim stock....call me crazy.

Kevin


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## Huskybill (May 31, 2019)

Good idea using a metal plug in the govenor who knows what this new gas will eat since it’s eating gas line already.


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## flying pig (May 31, 2019)

Real1shepherd said:


> Lots of the guy bragged about punching out a plug piece from a beer can. I chose to use brass shim stock....call me crazy.
> 
> Kevin


I do the same. Dads saw had a piece of Pilsner can in it. Lol


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## pioneer saws (Jun 1, 2019)

Think you guys might like this


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## Huskybill (Jun 1, 2019)

Nice, I like it..I have the 2100/2101 manuals somewhere since I ran two of them back them.


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## SawTroll (Jun 3, 2019)

I once found an operators manual for the 2101XP, dated 1997 (attached).


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## Huskybill (Jun 3, 2019)

I have brain fade I purchased a new 2100 with a 24” bar/404” 050 ga chain & chain brake around 79/80 ish. I purchased my second 2102xp full wrap saw around the early 80’s to mid 80’s. I have all these owners, advertisements, parts manuals somewhere.


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## SawTroll (Jun 3, 2019)

kevin j said:


> …..
> 
> 2. PRODUCTION DATE for 2100CD, sn 5312819 Electrolux era
> 
> …..



A few different serial numbering systems were used trough the production of the 2100 - but if that is the full number (no other numbers except the model number on the tag), and provided the tag is "silver" in color, that number would date the saw to 1985 week 31.

From about 1982 to some time in 1984 the numbers were 6 digit, with the full year (4 digits) as well on the tag (10 digits in all) - and before about 1982 there were other systems (that no-one that I know of are able to fully "decode").

As with other models, the tag color was changed to black from 1987.


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## SawTroll (Jun 4, 2019)

Here's a Workshop Manual, that likely dates from 1980 (attached).


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## Real1shepherd (Jun 4, 2019)

What is needed is a clear Workshop Manual of the 2100 reprint. The one circulating the Net has pics that look like they've been dipped in dark chocolate. 

The last FWM that went through eBay (original paper) went for over $50. 

Kevin


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## Huskybill (Jun 4, 2019)

The first two stroke case I ever split and assembled was a 2100. The older saws are simple to work on. My son uses his phone and takes pics while he disassembles everything.


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## SawTroll (Jun 5, 2019)

Real1shepherd said:


> What is needed is a clear Workshop Manual of the 2100 reprint. The one circulating the Net has pics that look like they've been dipped in dark chocolate.
> 
> The last FWM that went through eBay (original paper) went for over $50.
> 
> Kevin



Similar quality issues are present with many (most?) of the older paper documents that were scanned by (or for) Husqvarna a few decades ago - but at least they did it, and made the documents somewhat available on the Internet.


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## Real1shepherd (Jun 5, 2019)

SawTroll said:


> Similar quality issues are present with many (most?) of the older paper documents that were scanned by (or for) Husqvarna a few decades ago - but at least they did it, and made the documents somewhat available on the Internet.


 
I had a 2100 FWM once that disappeared. I know what the pics look like before they ever went to the Internet. They have reprinted the 1100 manual in hard copy and it's fine. I don't know why they haven't reprinted the 2100 manual with all the interest past & present. 

Kevin


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