# SC252 Bearing question..



## OLD MAN GRINDER (Jan 11, 2012)

My 252 has 600 hrs, had 510 when i got it used, with a new engine, had a shaver sc25 b4 that on a kubota tractor, but due to pto problem on tractor decided to go with a stand alone grinder..

So far very happy with the 252, but i would like to know how i know when to change jackshaft and grinder wheel bearings, the grinder wheel bearings look like they have been changed because they are grey and not vermeer yellow, but the jackshaft bearings are the original vermeer yellow..

Will there be a noise or vibration etc, grinder is noisy anyhow due to broken bolts in various places making side plates loose, i have had to do some welding to shore things up...

I keep them well greased also..

Any advice would be appreciated..

Bob..


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## Beast12 (Jan 13, 2012)

Oh you will know! :-D

They give you some warning. Once they start making noise then you have a little time before they become an issue. The worse they get the louder they are.

-Matt


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## OLD MAN GRINDER (Jan 13, 2012)

Beast12 said:


> Oh you will know! :-D
> 
> They give you some warning. Once they start making noise then you have a little time before they become an issue. The worse they get the louder they are.
> 
> -Matt



Thx Matt, thats what i thought, the problem is the machine is so noisy its hard
to tell where its all coming from, it is cutting fine tho, esp since i have adjusted the
belts properly, there is a learning curve with the machine and i was used to a pto
grinder and the 252 is much different, but i have gotten to the point where i am 
now doing stumps esp large ones and half the time i did when i started..

Thx much for ur help..


Bob..


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## gr8scott72 (Jan 14, 2012)

Beast12 said:


> Oh you will know! :-D
> 
> They give you some warning. Once they start making noise then you have a little time before they become an issue. The worse they get the louder they are.
> 
> -Matt



Mine just puked the ball bearings all over the ground. :msp_scared:


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## OLD MAN GRINDER (Jan 14, 2012)

gr8scott72 said:


> Mine just puked the ball bearings all over the ground. :msp_scared:



LOL...I'd rather not find out that way...

Bob...


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## stumper63 (Jan 15, 2012)

Just be careful you don't start spinning a bearing collar on the shaft. It usually makes a knock like a bad rod bearing. Keep checking the collar set screws for tightness.

If it starts spinning it hammers the shaft really soon, now a $300 item. Or I finally realized after a couple of them in the last 8 years that you can take them to a machine shop, have them weld over the bad part on the shaft, and machine it true again, was about $100.

And don't buy pricey Vermeer bearings ($86 now), you can get good ones aftermarket for about $30 or less. I'm running Turner bearings now.

Stumper63


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## OLD MAN GRINDER (Jan 15, 2012)

stumper63 said:


> Just be careful you don't start spinning a bearing collar on the shaft. It usually makes a knock like a bad rod bearing. Keep checking the collar set screws for tightness.
> 
> If it starts spinning it hammers the shaft really soon, now a $300 item. Or I finally realized after a couple of them in the last 8 years that you can take them to a machine shop, have them weld over the bad part on the shaft, and machine it true again, was about $100.
> 
> ...



Thx Stumper, i'll chk the set screws right away, i'm a little confused about the bearings, do u press out the bearings and replace them or do u change out the whole unit ??, there is a set on ebay for 150.00 but it shows the whole unit, listed under stump cutters....looking at the pics looks like one is 7" and the other 6.5" they are for the grinding wheel bearings, don't know the exact year of my mach as i got it used and they did not know either, so allways use the serial nmber to get the right parts from vermeer, just ordered the dual wheel kit as i am getting a lot of hilly jobs and have allmost turned the mach over a couple of times, am really happy with the 252 over the pto grinder i used to have, just wish i wasn't so long in the tooth or i would get a new 372 LOL..

Thx for ur help..

Bob...


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## stumper63 (Jan 15, 2012)

You replace whole unit, it's called a pillow block bearing. Anyway, go to thread "List of Upgrades to Vermeer SC252" page 10 for input on how to remove the bearings off the shaft.

Stumper63


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## kkottemann (Jan 15, 2012)

I run mine until they blow apart....then replace...not a hard job, just make sure the shaft is in good condition before you put it back together.


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## OLD MAN GRINDER (Jan 15, 2012)

stumper63 said:


> You replace whole unit, it's called a pillow block bearing. Anyway, go to thread "List of Upgrades to Vermeer SC252" page 10 for input on how to remove the bearings off the shaft.
> 
> Stumper63



Will do,,,thx much..
Bob..


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## NCgrinder (Jan 25, 2012)

stumper63 said:


> Just be careful you don't start spinning a bearing collar on the shaft. It usually makes a knock like a bad rod bearing. Keep checking the collar set screws for tightness.
> 
> If it starts spinning it hammers the shaft really soon, now a $300 item. Or I finally realized after a couple of them in the last 8 years that you can take them to a machine shop, have them weld over the bad part on the shaft, and machine it true again, was about $100.
> 
> ...



Stumper63: I did just that last time I had to replace a cutter- wheel shaft. The problem is that the bearings are a loose "slip-fit" and when you tighten the lock-collars ,it pulls the shaft to one side. It doesn't take long before the lockscrew starts digging its way around the shaft.I took the old shaft,had it welded up .Then I took a new bearing to a precision machinist and had him to machine the shaft to a precision,press fit. He also milled flats on the shaft for the lockscrews to tighten on. So far, this shaft has outlasted by far any shaft I've replaced. I've got several of the old ones stashed away, so I'll send one out for welding/machining ,and be ready if this shaft goes. 
Ya got a number on those Turner bearngs?
Stan


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## stumper63 (Jan 25, 2012)

Turner UCP208 24. $31.67 each at McGuire Bearing Co. November 2011. So far so good, put one pump in each bearing at installation "just in case", haven't greased em yet, got about 50 hours on them, running good.

How many hours you got on that "press fit" shaft? Sounds like a good idea. I've got a spare at the machine shop now ready to be welded up, maybe should have him mill it a couple thousandths larger and put some setscrew flats on it and then press the bearings on for me now. If you gotta cut the old bearings off anyway you don't have to worry about being able to pull them off.

Stumper63


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## sticknstring (Jan 30, 2012)

Anyone have a part number for the jackshaft bearings? I'm going to try and order them from somewhere other than vermeer.


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## gr8scott72 (Jan 30, 2012)

sticknstring said:


> Anyone have a part number for the jackshaft bearings? I'm going to try and order them from somewhere other than vermeer.



If you have a stump grinder, you need to become friends with your local Motion Industries guy. He can cross reference part numbers or just get you the right part by measuring your old bearing and shaft. And MUCH cheaper than the Vermeer place.


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## paccity (Jan 30, 2012)

stumper63, McGuire Bearing is who i go to on all my bearings, good prices good people, hav
n't had a problem so far.


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## ApexTreeService (Jul 12, 2013)

Have never replace or greased my upper bearings. Have owned machine since 2003. Just replaced my cutter wheel bearings yesterday for the second time since owning the machine. Last time was 4 or 5 years ago. Never greased them either. First time I replaced them, bought new cast pillow block/bearing (UCP208-24 ) complete cause they were cheap. $15 now days on the net. Had to cut 1/8 steel spacer to put between block and Vermeer frame. Can't remember why I did this, but probably so cutter wheel shaft would not rub on belt housing. This time around, I reused the same cast housing, rotated (hammered) the bad bearings out, had one spare bearing insert from 4-5 years ago, bought another locally for $15. Then I just wire wheeled the cast housing where the bearing rotates into, tapped in a zerk fitting where there was not one before, and reassembled. We'll see if occasional Amsoil grease makes a difference in these. By the way easiest way to get the inner race off the cutter wheel shaft is to torch it. First if the bearing is intact, start by torching (Oxy-Acetylene metal cutting head) the roller balls out of the bearing (one minute process) so you can get the pillow block and outer race off, leaving only the inner race still pressed on the shaft. You can have that torched off in literally two minutes. If you don't have a torch, go buy a portable unit from Harbor Freight for $80 or whatever they are. If you were to run/skim your hand along the pressed on race, that is how you want the actual flame to cut the race off. So heat the steel on the race at the end of the shaft, and start cutting with the oxygen and cut away the race until you see the shaft exposed, then move on to more of the race. So the flame will never be directed toward the shaft like this ----o (which works too, but can pit the shaft, but rather like this ____o , do this on one side (30-60 sec.) then the other side and race falls off. No damage, no grinding, no prob.


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## MOE (Jul 14, 2013)

Heat is another way to tell if a bearing is starting to go out. They will run warmer. Normally on something like that, they will be warm but you can touch them for a second or two. When they start to go, there is more internal resistance an friction. One may be a lot warmer than the other. You can sometimes smell hot grease or see it oozing out in liquid form.


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## howel07264 (Jul 14, 2013)

OLD MAN GRINDER said:


> LOL...I'd rather not find out that way...
> 
> Bob...


 Run them till the start smoking or liquifying the grease. I also use a laser thermometer to check bearing temps. They should run around 120 degrees if in good shape. I also use it to monitor my trailer bearings.


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