# Firewood Bundler? Build - Pics Added



## tla100 (Mar 11, 2016)

What kind of setup's do you guys use? Been throwing the idea around of getting into it. I got a lot of wood split and off the ground. Wondering if a plastic banding would work ok? Most I see is plastic wrapped. I got a welder and am handy.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 11, 2016)

The motor is the expensive part, about $700. It hasvquite a bit of reduction in the gearbox, plus a pulley setup.
I can get you the model.

I got mine from John's Welding. Was about $2k shipped with a 4 or 5 cases of wrap.


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## unclemoustache (Mar 11, 2016)

I use mesh bags. I put the splits in a metal can until full, pull the mesh bag over the outside of the can, flip it over and slide out the can. I then shove in a few more pieces into the center of the bag to fill it up good and full. Takes about 2 minutes. Very cheap, very easy. I have my kids do it, and pay them $1/bag, and I sell them for $4.


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## tla100 (Mar 11, 2016)

unclemoustache said:


> I use mesh bags. I put the splits in a metal can until full, pull the mesh bag over the outside of the can, flip it over and slide out the can. I then shove in a few more pieces into the center of the bag to fill it up good and full. Takes about 2 minutes. Very cheap, very easy. I have my kids do it, and pay them $1/bag, and I sell them for $4.
> 
> View attachment 491201


Dang, that looks like a winner. Where you get the mesh bags from? 

VF I did see the ones from Johns welding, but a bit more than I want to spend.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 11, 2016)

How much do mesh bags cost? It's costs me about $0.15 per bundle for stretch wrap and paper (info sheet).


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## tla100 (Mar 11, 2016)

Found some on Uline for $66 for 100.


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## farmer steve (Mar 11, 2016)

tla100 said:


> Found some on Uline for $66 for 100.


check these guys out. they have several sizes. not sure what size uncle is using.
https://www.martinsproducesupplies.com/tools-bird-scare/mesh-produce-bags


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 11, 2016)

unclemoustache said:


> I have my kids do it, and pay them $1/bag, and I sell them for $4.





tla100 said:


> Dang, that looks like a winner. Where you get the mesh bags from?



Buy a machine. Kids cost way too much...


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## tla100 (Mar 12, 2016)

Well, funny thing...Last week I asked my neighbor buddy that has a tree service, if he knows anybody with a bundler. Well he said he knew a guy about 20 min away. Tonight he calls n says we need to look at it, and he wants me to build one.....heh....will see how this goes.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 12, 2016)

If you use the mesh bags, do you use a waterproof info paper? I put mine in between the wraps of plastic. Just had business name and what the product is/amount (it's a required for some of the places I do bundles)


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## Dogsout (Mar 12, 2016)

I purchased a bundler just like the one below, except no wheels, off of Craigslist in New Mexico about a month ago. It was in excellent shape and came with 6 new 15" shrink wrap rolls. $600 for the machine and $200 to ship. I can tell you the manual crank turns easy and works great and you can really spit out bundles at a fairly good clip. If you are not going into this needing to produce a lot of bundles a day I think the crank one will work just fine for you. As someone stated above most states require you to have certain information on the bundle. In Iowa it is name and address, price, size of bundle, type of wood and county of origin. I decided to get into this mainly because I could get the bundler so cheap and I have tons of seasoned firewood that I can divert from my OWB stacks and put towards this. Finally this being a sideline and not a business I charge the same amount as the local stores for the bundles. That being $5.00 a bundle. The reason for that is I feel I have much better wood in my bundles and more. (My bundle tag says .75 CU FT but I am normally closer to 1 CU FT.) If I only sell 20 bundles all year I believe that $100 is still a pretty good return on my $800 investment.
On a side note I got a new X27 Fiskars from my Son for Christmas and that is what I am using to split down my bigger OWB splits to bundle size splits. For someone who has never split wood by hand I have to admit it does the job and does it good.


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## Joesell (Mar 12, 2016)

tla100 said:


> Well, funny thing...Last week I asked my neighbor buddy that has a tree service, if he knows anybody with a bundler. Well he said he knew a guy about 20 min away. Tonight he calls n says we need to look at it, and he wants me to build one.....heh....will see how this goes.



If you can, post some pics and info about it. I'd also like to build one, so any info will help.


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## cantoo (Mar 12, 2016)

I built one a couple of years ago. Took me a weekend and worked really well. I was selling an old wood splitter I had and when the 2 guys came to get it my lovely daughter in law (sales person that she is) sold them my wrapper while they were here. I need to build another one. The pictures might still be on here somewhere.


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## tla100 (Mar 12, 2016)

Well, I found an electric motor and pulley off an old air compressor i got for free. Frame is simple enough to make. For the rotating asm I think I may use some washing machine parts, my real job. I am going to make an adjustable table that will widen or narrow up depending on size of bundles. Will get pics of the one we looked at when i get to my laptop


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## c5rulz (Mar 13, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> The motor is the expensive part, about $700. It hasvquite a bit of reduction in the gearbox, plus a pulley setup.
> I can get you the model.
> 
> I got mine from John's Welding. Was about $2k shipped with a 4 or 5 cases of wrap.




Just looked at their web site, looks like a good product. FWIW, they are only 40 miles from me.


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## tla100 (Mar 13, 2016)

Works well, nice tight bundles. Foot pedal switch.


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## unclemoustache (Mar 13, 2016)

tla100 said:


> Dang, that looks like a winner. Where you get the mesh bags from?
> VF I did see the ones from Johns welding, but a bit more than I want to spend.





ValleyFirewood said:


> How much do mesh bags cost? It's costs me about $0.15 per bundle for stretch wrap and paper (info sheet).





tla100 said:


> Found some on Uline for $66 for 100.





Harris Seeds - $35/100 (plus shipping). if you order 300, it's $32/100.

http://www.harrisseeds.com/storefront/p-13874-harvest-produce-bag-18-x-32.aspx


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## Yooperforeman (Mar 14, 2016)

I don't have a picture,but I made a rack out of 2x2's. It's about waist high and 12"x12". I fill the rack with splits,tighten it down with a ratchet strap and then tie the bundle with baling twine.Takes me 
4 min. per bundle. I make the strings ahead of time and they're long enough to tie together to make a carrying handle.


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 15, 2016)

My idea is similar to Yooperforeman's with a slight enhancement. I cut leaky garden hose into 5-1/2" lengths and run the baling twine through them to serve as a handle between the wraps on each end of the bundle. My bundles are larger and usually heavier than the commercial ones at the store. Customers really appreciate the hose handles and friends give me plenty of worn out hose for nothing.

I also save a few small logs as "bundle packers" to tighten things up now and then and to ensure a good measure. One last tip: I have found that a price tag tied to each bundle reduces theft and knocking a buck off the price of a second one increases sales.


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## Yooperforeman (Mar 15, 2016)

Yeah....I also have cedar kindling that I use to pack into the bundle to tighten it up.


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## tla100 (Mar 17, 2016)

Picked up a 12" pulley, 2 1/2" pulley and a shaft/bearing and a large belt. Will try to get pics up. Wish I had a square tubing bender to bend the outside bars but....


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 17, 2016)

tla100 said:


> Picked up a 12" pulley, 2 1/2" pulley and a shaft/bearing and a large belt. Will try to get pics up. Wish I had a square tubing bender to bend the outside bars but....



What else are you using to gear down? Mine is maybe 20rpm. I can check if it helps.


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## tla100 (Mar 17, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> What else are you using to gear down? Mine is maybe 20rpm. I can check if it helps.



Just using the pic I posted as a guide. I am using an old 3/4 horse 120 volt motor that was on a homemade air compressor, I am using the large pulley that went to pump, coupled with the small 2 1/2" pulley on a shaft. Then have the new 12" pulley the will be attached to the arm and rotating asm.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 17, 2016)

If my math is righ, it's going to be 300rpm or so. Seems darn fast! Maybe a reostat for the motor? Get it down to 500ish rpm from 1810.

Mine has a gearbox then pulley reduction.


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## cantoo (Mar 17, 2016)

I was at an wood auction sale on Wednesday night and at the last second had a smart thought and dropped a bid on this. I need a spare motor for my wood elevator but thought it might work good for a wrapper too. $35 one bid. They said it was a finger sander. Bought the carts too for $10 a piece, they will be piled up with junk in no time.


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 17, 2016)

The season has started here. I bundled up seven today, nine logs to the bundle--extra sized because it was St Patrick's Day. Sold three in less than an hour. One of the buyers bought me a green beer for a tip.


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 19, 2016)

cantoo said:


> I was at an wood auction sale on Wednesday night and at the last second had a smart thought and dropped a bid on this. I need a spare motor for my wood elevator but thought it might work good for a wrapper too. $35 one bid. They said it was a finger sander. Bought the carts too for $10 a piece, they will be piled up with junk in no time.
> View attachment 492634
> View attachment 492636
> View attachment 492637


That 1/2 Hp Leeson motor alone is worth about $150 or more these days--quiet and dependable.


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## absrio (Mar 19, 2016)

awesome motor find!! perhaps the op could use a pwm to regulate the rpm, along with the gear reduction. pwm's work better than a dimmer switch cause they don't let the motor heat up near as much. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191813542262?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


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## Yooperforeman (Mar 21, 2016)

This is the way I make bundles...pretty cheap and easy.


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 21, 2016)

Yooperforeman said:


> This is the way I make bundles...pretty cheap and easy.View attachment 493442
> View attachment 493443
> View attachment 493444


Bravo! Very similar to my method. Nice big bundles. Anything larger and they can't carry them, especially the ladies, and they are at least half the market, maybe more.

I'm using slightly thinner orange bailing twine and threading the short length of garden hose section between the wraps to serve as a handle. That allows getting by with one length of twine between and I can get by with one length for wrapping and one final cut. It's a great hobby.

I also found that my sawbuck also works as a pretty good temporary holder.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 21, 2016)

How many per hr can you do? I do about 80-90 bundles/hr. 100 bundles to a cord.


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## Yooperforeman (Mar 22, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> How many per hr can you do? I do about 80-90 bundles/hr. 100 bundles to a cord.


I'm getting 35-40 bundles per face cord,takes 0ne and a half hours per face cord.Last year with two racks at stores,I sold 420 bundles,this year I'm planning to hit 500+


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## woodshax (Mar 22, 2016)

tla100 said:


> Dang, that looks like a winner. Where you get the mesh bags from?
> 
> VF I did see the ones from Johns welding, but a bit more than I want to spend.



If you are still looking...We bag the same way with round barrel and the mesh bags...I just re-ordered from jumbobag.com for about $200 per thousand (21 x32") and about the same price for the 15x25"....plus delivery ...we can fit about 1.4 to 1.5 cu ft of 18" firewood in the big bag....so it comes out to about 90 bags per cord...but we sell at state parks for more than $11.50 per bag....with 24 hour sales....Spring Break and good weather means we sell a bunch


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## absrio (Mar 22, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> How many per hr can you do? I do about 80-90 bundles/hr. 100 bundles to a cord.


what kind of bundler do you have?


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## tla100 (Mar 22, 2016)

woodshax said:


> If you are still looking...We bag the same way with round barrel and the mesh bags...I just re-ordered from jumbobag.com for about $200 per thousand (21 x32") and about the same price for the 15x25"....plus delivery ...we can fit about 1.4 to 1.5 cu ft of 18" firewood in the big bag....so it comes out to about 90 bags per cord...but we sell at state parks for more than $11.50 per bag....with 24 hour sales....Spring Break and good weather means we sell a bunch



Thanks for the heads up on the bags also....

I got a start on building the base and mounting the motor and first set of pulleys. I am waiting on an axle spindle, will be using an old trailer hub, as I had it laying around with good bearings and seal. Still playing around with how I will attach hub and spindle to frame. Will try post pics tonight.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 22, 2016)

Yooperforeman said:


> I'm getting 35-40 bundles per face cord,takes 0ne and a half hours per face cord.Last year with two racks at stores,I sold 420 bundles,this year I'm planning to hit 500+



Are you factoring in cutting and splitting too?

I'm not, hard to fully say, I'd guess a good 3-4 hrs a cord from standing tree to bundle. Right now lot of time spent skidding, skid trail almost a mile.


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## Yooperforeman (Mar 22, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> Are you factoring in cutting and splitting too?
> 
> I'm not, hard to fully say, I'd guess a good 3-4 hrs a cord from standing tree to bundle. Right now lot of time spent skidding, skid trail almost a mile.



No,I'm talking about just bundling.I cut and split 10 face cord ahead of time then I can go full bore bundling.


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 22, 2016)

Yooperforeman said:


> No,I'm talking about just bundling.I cut and split 10 face cord ahead of time then I can go full bore bundling.


+1. Not to mention, many times I do not start with a standing tree. And, even standing dead trees need their rounds to be dried further before you can bundle their splits.

Want to make a lot of customers mad at you? Bundle up green splits and sell them green bundles that hiss at them like snakes when they try to light a fire.


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## tla100 (Mar 23, 2016)

Base and motor...












plate is 18" x 18" with 12" width for wood





this is the back mocked, waiting on spindle, that will be welded to backside of 18x18 plate. then I am going to weld a 3/4" bolt 3-4" long to the end of the spindle and run that thru a bearing mounted to the frame out the back. The arm will be welded to an old rim I am going to bolt to the hub. Going to plasma cut inner rim out. 




12" pulley


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## tla100 (Mar 23, 2016)

Going to drop motor off at local motor shop and have em go thru it, has a loose cooling fan and bearings a little dry. I got a foot pedal control on order from Harbor freight, $14 or so. Once spindle is welded and in place, I am going to build the front log support. Got a couple no flat 10" handcart wheels on order too.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 23, 2016)

Wood Doctor said:


> +1. Not to mention, many times I do not start with a standing tree. And, even standing dead trees need their rounds to be dried further before you can bundle their splits.
> 
> Want to make a lot of customers mad at you? Bundle up green splits and sell them green bundles that hiss at them like snakes when they try to light a fire.



I make bundles ahead so they dry.


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 23, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> I make bundles ahead so they dry.


That's an excellent idea. All you need is a storage area for the bundles that rest in the sun and wind and are also protected from theft.


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## Yooperforeman (Mar 23, 2016)

A couple summers ago I made bundles with green splits and kept them in the woodshed,well once they dried out I had to 're-tie them because they had loosened up so much.I decided it was better to dry the splits first then bundle.


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 23, 2016)

Yooperforeman said:


> A couple summers ago I made bundles with green splits and kept them in the woodshed,well once they dried out I had to 're-tie them because they had loosened up so much.I decided it was better to dry the splits first then bundle.


That is usually what I do as well. Dry the splits first because wood shrinks as it dries out and usually sheds its bark while doing so. That also means you can sell the bundles immediately.

Today I cut rounds that need to be split. Cut from live trees last fall, they are still a little green. I will let the rounds dry a month, split them, and then let their splits dry in a random pile for yet another month before I bundle them up. Heck, cottonwood and elm need the bark falling off before you can even split the rounds cleanly.


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## absrio (Mar 23, 2016)

tla100 said:


> Going to drop motor off at local motor shop and have em go thru it, has a loose cooling fan and bearings a little dry. I got a foot pedal control on order from Harbor freight, $14 or so. Once spindle is welded and in place, I am going to build the front log support. Got a couple no flat 10" handcart wheels on order too.


wow looks like its coming along nicely!! 
couple of questions; have you calculated the speed of bundler with the reduction your using? seems like 2 reductions might still be kinda fast. usually home made bundlers have three, 12-2 reductions. but it depends on the speed of the motor. also have you worked out how to tension the belts? also have you considered putting a bolt (or threads) with a spring and nut on the shaft holding the plastic roll. that way you can tension how tight the roll will hold and hence adjust the tension of the wrap on the bundles? just trying to help. keep up the good work.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 24, 2016)

Wood Doctor said:


> That's an excellent idea. All you need is a storage area for the bundles that rest in the sun and wind and are also protected from theft.



Yeah have a 30x40 porch that is fenced in.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 24, 2016)

Yooperforeman said:


> A couple summers ago I made bundles with green splits and kept them in the woodshed,well once they dried out I had to 're-tie them because they had loosened up so much.I decided it was better to dry the splits first then bundle.



I wrap them tight, have only had a few that the middle of the bundle was loose.


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## tla100 (Mar 24, 2016)

absrio said:


> wow looks like its coming along nicely!!
> couple of questions; have you calculated the speed of bundler with the reduction your using? seems like 2 reductions might still be kinda fast. usually home made bundlers have three, 12-2 reductions. but it depends on the speed of the motor. also have you worked out how to tension the belts? also have you considered putting a bolt (or threads) with a spring and nut on the shaft holding the plastic roll. that way you can tension how tight the roll will hold and hence adjust the tension of the wrap on the bundles? just trying to help. keep up the good work.



The bottom belt i can adjust/slide motor to tighten. Upper I will probably add an idler to take up slack. did not calculate speed. Just kinda winging it.....I can always swap motor pulley smaller. Just runnin what i have on hand for now.


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 24, 2016)

So, I guess I have to ask these two questions to all readers of this thread: (1) do you pack 8 to 9 logs to the bundle? and (2) do your customers ever complain that your bundles are too small?

Firewood bundles that are too small is all that I hear in this neck of the words from buyers of commercial bundles sold at convenience stores. And, that's primarily why they like to buy mine and get their money's worth. People do not like paying a dollar a log and for small logs to boot.


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## tla100 (Mar 24, 2016)

Got spindle in mail today, welded a 3" bolt 3/4" diameter Grade 8 bolt to end of spindle. I ground bolt at angle so it has good penetration.





Added gussets so it should not break.


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## tla100 (Mar 24, 2016)

The idiot welding, me, went way to fast and the plate started to warp like crazy. Should have used thicker metal and went slower, but oh well, hope I can tweak back straight. 

The round piece is going to be welded to the frame, I might get another one and remove washers and use only one nut and lock washer and loctite . Hope that is enough to support the weight and rotating forces of it. 










I got an old bent trailer rim and cut the center out and will use that to weld my arm to and just use lug nuts to bolt on. I am thinking that I might trace the bolt pattern to the 12" pulley and bolt that in too. Will see, unless anyone else has better opinions, chime in. Will try to attatch dust cover to to keep dirt out, bearings are readily available but I doubt they will ever need replacing. 

The round ball is used as a pivot in ag industry for 3 point hitches on tractors. I like it because it has a lot of surface area to weld on and it will not flex.


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## absrio (Mar 24, 2016)

tla100 said:


> I got an old bent trailer rim and cut the center out and will use that to weld m
> arm to and just use lug nuts to bolt on. I am thinking that I might trace the bolt pattern to the 12" pulley and bolt that in too. Will see, unless anyone else has better opinions, chime in.
> flex.


I was picturing something with a long skinny rod instead of the rim, like this. but at this point the rim is prolly your best option. 


I gotta say I like his removable pan design to put the wood in, then place all the pieces at once it in the machine.


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## Yooperforeman (Mar 25, 2016)

Wood Doctor said:


> So, I guess I have to ask these two questions to all readers of this thread: (1) do you pack 8 to 9 logs to the bundle? and (2) do your customers ever complain that your bundles are too small?
> 
> Firewood bundles that are too small is all that I hear in this neck of the words from buyers of commercial bundles sold at convenience stores. And, that's primarily why they like to buy mine and get their money's worth. People do not like paying a dollar a log and for small logs to boot.




My bundles are 14 to 17 pieces of good dry hardwood.I've heard many compliments about how the bundles are a great value.I like to take pride in a good quality product,(I'm the only one in the area who packs cedar kindling in the bundle)


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## tla100 (Mar 26, 2016)

Got it mocked up and tacked in place. Just drilled pulley with bolt pattern and cut center out with plasma cutter.


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## absrio (Mar 26, 2016)

this project is coming along nicely. please keep the pics coming.


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## tla100 (Mar 27, 2016)

The back plate that warped was pretty bad, I added the piece of angle on the top, but did not help. So, I cut a new piece of 1/4" plate, started cutting around the old plate, did 2 cuts and set it back down and what do you know, it laid flat again. So, I started welding my 2 cuts up, got a little warp again. Cut it, then did a couple 1" welds, took water hose to it and cooled, repeat and it is good to go. 

I welded the arm directly to the hub, built it up with a few passes with the welder. Should hold no problem. Need to pick up a belt. Foot pedal is not going to be in till mid week. Do a little grinding and hit with some flat black. Add some supports/gussets to frame and tie to the front support which I need to build. 

Got a couple rolls of plastic ordered, a handheld plastic dispensor I am going to mount to the arm.


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## absrio (Mar 28, 2016)




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## Wood Doctor (Mar 28, 2016)

I have to wonder if a gear motor might have been easier to work with--say 30:1 reduction or so. These are readily available at surplus shops. It eliminates the need of an intermittent shaft and would then require only one pair of pulleys and one drive belt. I use one on my band saw to cut metal.


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## absrio (Mar 28, 2016)

what do you mean by "gear motor"?


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## cantoo (Mar 29, 2016)

absrio, it's just a motor with a gear reduction attached. There are also electric motor that have built on gear reduction but they are usually smaller and maybe not powerful enough for a bundler. Takes a bit of torque to turn the little bundle of wood.


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## cantoo (Mar 29, 2016)

Inside.


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 29, 2016)

The gear motor does essentially what you are trying to do with two belts, four pullets, and a separate drive shaft to reduce the final RPM and supply the required torque. Believe me, they work. Many are far more compact than the one shown above by canto0.


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## Dogsout (Mar 29, 2016)

cantoo said:


> Takes a bit of torque to turn the little bundle of wood.
> View attachment 495130



I beg to differ sir. With your wrapping arm counter weighted it actually takes very little torque for it to turn to wrap the bundle. I have a hand crank model and I could turn that thing all day long and not get tired. Also with the reduction in a reducer you can run a very small HP motor and still have a ton of torque on the output side of the reducer. Get yourself a little Boston reducer, a Lovejoy coupler and stick a 1/2 HP motor on it and it will wrap all the wood you want to bundle.


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## cantoo (Mar 29, 2016)

Dogout, I was meaning the little motors that surplus places sell. Princess Auto here sells motors that look like car power window openers that are gearhead motors. Usually 12 volt, I don't think they would work for the bundlers. The one that I made was a hand crank type, it took a bit to start it to turn but once moving the momentum made it easy. I've never seen a wrapper with a 12 volt motor so I assumed that one would not work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reversible-...r-12vdc-50-RPM-or-35-RPM-DC-12v-/201153395787


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## cantoo (Mar 29, 2016)

Opps, meant to post picture. Something like this one.


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 30, 2016)

You can also find in-line gear motors. I paid about $100 for mine six years ago and should have bought several at that price. Look for continuous duty and a 1/2" output shaft. It is amazing the number of output RPM speeds that are available.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Apr 7, 2016)

Wood Doctor said:


> So, I guess I have to ask these two questions to all readers of this thread: (1) do you pack 8 to 9 logs to the bundle? and (2) do your customers ever complain that your bundles are too small?
> 
> Firewood bundles that are too small is all that I hear in this neck of the words from buyers of commercial bundles sold at convenience stores. And, that's primarily why they like to buy mine and get their money's worth. People do not like paying a dollar a log and for small logs to boot.



Yeah, around 8-9, a mix of a few smaller pieces to start the fire and the rest normal stove sized. Nothing real big though.

The bundles are a good solid cubic foot plus, a cord of wood yields about 100 bundles.

I have been doing spruce, thinking of going to a mix though concerned on the weight. (Hard to carry for customers).


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## ChoppyChoppy (Apr 7, 2016)

absrio said:


> I was picturing something with a long skinny rod instead of the rim, like this. but at this point the rim is prolly your best option.
> 
> 
> I gotta say I like his removable pan design to put the wood in, then place all the pieces at once it in the machine.





Wood Doctor said:


> The gear motor does essentially what you are trying to do with two belts, four pullets, and a separate drive shaft to reduce the final RPM and supply the required torque. Believe me, they work. Many are far more compact than the one shown above by canto0.




Yup, gear motor than belt to the arm is what my setup has.


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## absrio (Apr 7, 2016)

I'm wondering what happened to the op in this thread? I was thinking that the motor would still be too fast. I like the idea of a gear motor. but after building the machine and if it was too fast I would try the pwm.


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## Dogsout (Apr 7, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> I have been doing spruce, thinking of going to a mix though concerned on the weight. (Hard to carry for customers).



I come down on the opposite side of the weight issue. All of 1 cu ft in my bundles of good hard wood and have the weight to prove it. I am not catering to the weak or wimpy, if you can't lift it don't buy it. I want people to know that if you are willing to pay $5.00 for a bundle of my firewood you will get a hefty bundle of wood. I also don't put a handle on them, again if you can't bend over and grab them with two hands go find some ones cheaper lighter version with a handle. I don't sell these for a living so I guess I can be much more selective on who my customers are. Finally this is the first year that I have sold the bundles and I have already sold 20 of these and we are not even into camping season.


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## tla100 (Apr 7, 2016)

absrio said:


> I'm wondering what happened to the op in this thread? I was thinking that the motor would still be too fast. I like the idea of a gear motor. but after building the machine and if it was too fast I would try the pwm.



Been busy, got it together last night. You are right, it sure swings. I may need to put a smaller pulley on motor. Had a hard time trying to find rolls 14-16". I had motor so it was trying to keep it on the cheap. Broke my MIG welded and had to haul out Gramps old stick and tacked the front support together. Shoud have it finished up this weekend.


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## absrio (Apr 8, 2016)

pretty kewl project and fun to watch it progress. here is some 15" rolls of plastic: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hand-Stretc...hash=item259700be8e:m:muz802Dj3B6zc6OEcj7WOvg

before you switch pulleys you could try to wire in a pwm, I got one like this shipped to my door for under $6. I wired it up in less than 2 minutes. I have it wired up to a motor I plan to use for a bundler if/when I build one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000W-50-22...524895?hash=item418f2647df:g:hscAAOSwa39UwxYo


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## tla100 (Apr 11, 2016)

Well, finished it up tonight. I may need to tweak pulley alignment. It works, rather fast.










I did buy some 16" rolls, but they showed up as 18"...We cut one in half with a miter saw. But, the ends are a little melted, not bad but, enough to catch on itself. I also have to get a spring to keep tension on the threaded handle. I think I spent more time modifying the handheld dispenser than I could have made from scratch. I do have to add counter weight yet, but would like a roll to get weight pretty close. 

The front vertical supports are at 18" now, but will pull off to be 12" tall. Just a round rod and it is 1/2" conduit on top.

The cheapo foot pedal works good so far. It is mounted on a diamond plate and welded on both sides. It should protect the plastic from getting broke as there is only 2 small bolts to secure.


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## tla100 (Apr 11, 2016)

The wheels look a little odd and tweaked, but they are vertical. Happy so far, will find out when get a hundred bundles thru.


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## tla100 (Apr 11, 2016)

absrio said:


> pretty kewl project and fun to watch it progress. here is some 15" rolls of plastic: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hand-Stretc...hash=item259700be8e:m:muz802Dj3B6zc6OEcj7WOvg
> 
> before you switch pulleys you could try to wire in a pwm, I got one like this shipped to my door for under $6. I wired it up in less than 2 minutes. I have it wired up to a motor I plan to use for a bundler if/when I build one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000W-50-22...524895?hash=item418f2647df:g:hscAAOSwa39UwxYo



I asked the motor guy I brought it to to get bearings oiled and fix worn fan and he said this has a capacitor and can't be turned slower. Thanks for the info tho. Will check into the rolls too.


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## absrio (Apr 12, 2016)

tla100 said:


> I asked the motor guy I brought it to to get bearings oiled and fix worn fan and he said this has a capacitor and can't be turned slower. Thanks for the info tho. Will check into the rolls too.


kewl!!! thanx for the updated pics!!! looks like a fun project!!


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 13, 2016)

Being a woodsmith, I have to wonder whether I could make one of these wrapping machines out of hardwood, such as oak. I already have a continuous-duty 30 RPM gear motor that's strong enough (110 in-lb of torque). Looks like a great way to spend a few rainy days--designing and then building. I like the idea of spinning the plastic around with the wood logs remaining fixed.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Apr 13, 2016)

Is the rod holding the roll sturdy enough? Mine is about 1.5" diameter. Otherwise looks well built!


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## unclemoustache (Apr 14, 2016)

Nice! Now we need a video.


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 15, 2016)

If it's running a little fast, you could buy a slightly smaller drive pulley for the motor and then slide the mount sideways to maintain belt tension.

In addition, I've since talked to a few who have bought commercial wrappers and some have actually added a slight drag brake on the plastic drum that rotates in order to tighten the wrapping as it goes around. Not sure if the one shown here does this, but it's an idea. Most have paid well over $1,000 for theirs.


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## tla100 (Apr 20, 2016)

VF - the rod is sturdy enough. Will see in the long haul. I was going to add a gusset but have not yet.

My buddy picked it up and did a couple pickup loads of bundles, so far so good. He did get some 14" rolls of plastic wrap and it is way better than the cut rolls. Still need to add a spring to keep tension correct. 

Speed is not too crazy once you get use to it. Will try to have him send a video. I have never posted one, can't be too much different than pic I guess. My phone sucks for video.


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 20, 2016)

14" rolls would certainly be wide enough for firewood logs running 16" to 18" in length. That's how long I like to cut mine. Today it's supposed to rain all day. I think I'll start drawing up plans for one made out of oak hardwood and sharpen up my thickness planer. I already have the gear motor and wheels.

My motor is currently attached to a thickness sander that I made seven years ago and is easy to take off. I seldom use the sander anymore, so it's kind of a dead horse. It uses a light-duty chain drive and I have lots of chain left over. Being a 30 RPM Dayton gear motor (one revolution every two seconds), I can probably mount it rather close to the wrap axle. The price of these motors has tripled since I bought it. 

Should be an interesting project and a fine alternative to twine and scrap hose handles. Customers may miss those hose handles for carrying. I suppose I could wrap a short length of twine under the plastic and then tie on the handle when done. Any thoughts on that?


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## Shanen Mannies (Mar 1, 2017)

unclemoustache said:


> Harris Seeds - $35/100 (plus shipping). if you order 300, it's $32/100.
> 
> http://www.harrisseeds.com/storefront/p-13874-harvest-produce-bag-18-x-32.aspx


18×32 ,is that the size sacks that you use?
Order 100 and got to thinking about the size....lol


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## woodshax (Mar 1, 2017)

Those look like the ones I used to buy from Jumbosack....if you buy a bail of 2000 it is about .20 plus freight but be careful, they have a wide mesh and no UV protection so if you have them in sunlight they break down real quick and all of a sudden the customer drops 40-50 lbs of wood on their foot and sues you..... I get a better bag out of Vietnam at the same price but I have to buy 5000 at a time.... this year we are looking at needing 15,000 bags though so I should be able to get them a little cheaper


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