# One mans junk, another mans treasure



## THALL10326 (Apr 17, 2010)

Seems many have a tuff time rebuilding the 290 series chainsaw. Lets see how hard it really is. Got this as a freebie yesterday and decided to put it back together just for you guys that find the 290 series kinda hard to fool with. Step by step, here we go.


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## GASoline71 (Apr 17, 2010)

This will be a good thread Tom... 

Gary


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## StihlyinEly (Apr 17, 2010)

Why do I think there's Elvis music playing in the background as Tommy is posting this? 

Sorry man. Glad to see you still telling it like it is over one of the most popular Stihl saw models ever made.


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## forestryworks (Apr 17, 2010)

gasoline71 said:


> this will be a good thread tom...
> 
> Gary



+1


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## luvsaws (Apr 17, 2010)

opcorn:


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## THALL10326 (Apr 17, 2010)




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## indiansprings (Apr 17, 2010)

I wish I had this went I went thru the 310, didn't know about that damned bar stud at first. One spray can missing on your bench.....Kroil, throw that other chit away and get ya some, Kroil or nothing, it'll even repace vitalis or brylcream. Great thread Tom!


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## spacemule (Apr 17, 2010)

indiansprings said:


> I wish I had this went I went thru the 310, didn't know about that damned bar stud at first. One spray can missing on your bench.....Kroil, throw that other chit away and get ya some, Kroil or nothing, it'll even repace vitalis or brylcream. Great thread Tom!



Hey now! This ain't no fr'iggin oil thread! Besides, everyone knows PB Blaster is the best.


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## THALL10326 (Apr 17, 2010)




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## stipes (Apr 17, 2010)

*PB blaster...*



indiansprings said:


> I wish I had this went I went thru the 310, didn't know about that damned bar stud at first. One spray can missing on your bench.....Kroil, throw that other chit away and get ya some, Kroil or nothing, it'll even repace vitalis or brylcream. Great thread Tom!



I was a hardcore Kroil oil user,,but PB,,thats the sh*t....


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## stipes (Apr 17, 2010)

*Wow!!!*



THALL10326 said:


>



Looks great so far!!! You hear how the 290 series is such a pain in the azz to work on,,,your makin it look easy ......Great pics!!!!


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## THALL10326 (Apr 17, 2010)




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## Freehand (Apr 17, 2010)

Was one of those crank bearings missing a couple balls?


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## StihlyinEly (Apr 17, 2010)

I think this is one of those threads that's going to go into the AS Homeowner Saw THall of Fame. Cool, that you're doing this! 

I vote that, once Tommy's pictorial is finished, all the chatter in between his posts gets deleted so the thread can serve as a fine tutorial, with the golf claps and inevitable bickering coming after.


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## THALL10326 (Apr 17, 2010)




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## nmurph (Apr 17, 2010)

stipes said:


> Looks great so far!!! You hear how the 290 series is such a pain in the azz to work on,,,your makin it look easy ......Great pics!!!!



the ring clamp is the key to keeping you sanity when rebuilding this series!!! thanks TTH.


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## THALL10326 (Apr 17, 2010)




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## GASoline71 (Apr 17, 2010)

For this thread to be helpful... I say when Tom is done... the mods delete all the posts in between all of Tom's steps... including this one.

That way it'll be easier to look at the thread as a "how to" build.

Gary


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## THALL10326 (Apr 17, 2010)




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## StihlyinEly (Apr 17, 2010)

GASoline71 said:


> For this thread to be helpful... I say when Tom is done... the mods delete all the posts in between all of Tom's steps... including this one.
> 
> That way it'll be easier to look at the thread as a "how to" build.
> 
> Gary



Great minds thinking alike, G.


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## THALL10326 (Apr 17, 2010)




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## THALL10326 (Apr 17, 2010)




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## THALL10326 (Apr 17, 2010)




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## spacemule (Apr 17, 2010)

I say, when this thread is done, the mods should delete all the posts in it.


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## THALL10326 (Apr 17, 2010)

Hmmmmmmmmmm where'd that box of junk go, wait its not even a MS310 anymore, its a MS390, I'll be dayummmm.....


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## Stihl051master (Apr 17, 2010)

Is that a smoked piston on top, or just a hunka burnin' love?


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## Trigger Man (Apr 17, 2010)

Nice thread Tommy, now can I ask what the starting fluid was for????


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## THALL10326 (Apr 17, 2010)

Stihl051master said:


> Is that a smoked piston on top, or just a hunka burnin' love?



That piston is cooked bigtime. That saw was 7 yrs old. I sold it to the guy. He rocked his chain the other day but he was determined to continue sawing up a 30 inch oak. The saw finally overheated and it let go. The clutch side bearing heated up to the point the cage fell apart. The piston said I'm outta here and she quit for good.

He bought a new saw, another 310, and never said boo about it. He left that one. Since it was in good shape I decided to turn it into a 390. Figure I'd snap a few pics of how to do one of those saws since many have a tuff time with them. They aren't hard to work on at all, takes alittle patience but hard to work on, naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

Trigger Man said:


> Nice thread Tommy, now can I ask what the starting fluid was for????



Your a winner. I set it there in the pic on purpose. See that grease I put on the seals, well when you slide that seal over the crank you leave grease smeared on it. That flywheel will bust if you try to tighten it down on a greasy crankshaft. Starting fluid is a great grease cutter. I sprayed some on a rag and wiped that crank end down real good before installing the flywheel, glad you caught that, I was waiting for someone to ask, good eye!!!!!


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## BIGBORE577 (Apr 18, 2010)

Great tutorial TH!! Don't let the nay sawyers let you down!!!


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## teacherman (Apr 18, 2010)

StihlyinEly said:


> Why do I think there's Elvis music playing in the background as Tommy is posting this?
> 
> Sorry man. Glad to see you still telling it like it is over one of the most popular Stihl saw models ever made.



To me, it sounds more like the theme from Deliverance...... LOLOL:greenchainsaw:


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

BIGBORE577 said:


> Great tutorial TH!! Don't let the nay sawyers let you down!!!



Notta pro blem bo man,LOL I've done alot of those saws. Hell this morning I had a 250 that lost a clutch spring and chewed the case near the oil pump. Left a hole right at the bottom of the oil pump, would not pump oil due to the gap in the case. Hour later a new engine housing and she's oiling like a new saw.

Here in a month or so I'm gonna do a complete tear down and re-assemble of a 066. Gonna take it right down to the crank and bring it back to a complete saw. Some have a tuff time splitting cases and installing bearings. We gonna showem step by step how easy it really is, should be fun,


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

teacherman said:


> To me, it sounds more like the theme from Deliverance...... LOLOL:greenchainsaw:





Whatcha talking about man,LOL Reminds me, I got something today, customer brought it in and said this is for you man, thought you might like it. I looked at it and said what is that. He goes its a card holder. I'm like huh, okkkkkkkkkk. As I looked at it a idea came to mind. I told the guy I was gonna put a couple of condoms in it and approach some gal with it in my hand and say hey baby wanna mess around with the King as I open it and they look at whats in it,LOLOLOL Look at this dayumm thing, never seen a card holder like this,


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## 04ultra (Apr 18, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Here in a month or so I'm gonna do a complete tear down and re-assemble of a 066. Gonna take it right down to the crank and bring it back to a complete saw. Some have a tuff time splitting cases and installing bearings. We gonna showem step by step how easy it really is, should be fun,





You mean you cant replace them with out splitting the case???




.


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

04ultra said:


> You mean you cant replace them with out splitting the case???
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yup, gotta open that case to put em in and sock a new gasket in while at it....


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## luvsaws (Apr 18, 2010)

I have a couple of ?'s

On one of my service manual it shows engine bolt assembly pattern.As you have the case upside down it states to put in the first bolt kiddie corner across from the collar stud.Next in is the collar stud,then the one closest to flywheel muffler side,then the one closest to collar stud,then remaining back one. If that makes sense.
I can see the engine pan bolt pattern but what about the collar stud?

I have assembled three of them this way,did I do it wrong?


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

luvsaws said:


> I have a couple of ?'s
> 
> On one of my service manual it shows engine bolt assembly pattern.As you have the case upside down it states to put in the first bolt kiddie corner across from the collar stud.Next in is the collar stud,then the one closest to flywheel muffler side,then the one closest to collar stud,then remaining back one. If that makes sense.
> I can see the engine pan bolt pattern but what about the collar stud?
> ...



Not at all, you did fine. I always use the cross pattern when bolting the pan on. That bar stud hole is plenty big so lining it up is no big deal. I like getting the pan bolted down completely so I don't have to worry about air leaks..


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## luvsaws (Apr 18, 2010)

Gotcha!!

Great howto!!!
Would of been very helpful on my first one.It should help out many!


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## GASoline71 (Apr 18, 2010)

Again... great thread Tom. 

Gary


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## bcorradi (Apr 18, 2010)

Good pics tom

I've replaced the P&C on quite a few of these saws and they aren't horrid to work on or really anymore time consuming than their pro counterparts. They are different, but definately not complicated eventhough others beg to differ.

On a sidenote...before I left for work this evening I told my son (9) and daughter (7) to see if they could tear down an 026 I had to the crankcase. I checked when I got back hom from work tonight and they got all the plastic off, muffler, all the gastank av mount screws, inner guide plate, carb, starter cover, sprocket cover, coil, etc. off the saw, but they weren't able to seperate the tank from the crankcase. They have watched me a few times, but they weren't able to push the intake boot through the tank housing and pull the impulse line off the crankcase. I was pretty impressed. They also didn't get the cylinder pulled off, but were able to get the four torx off.


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## woodgrenade (Apr 18, 2010)

*That is why they call him the Champ*

Great post. Can't wait to see the 066 teardown/rebuild in the months to come.


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

GASoline71 said:


> Again... great thread Tom.
> 
> Gary



Thanks man. Hey gotta question for you. Remember the thread where Lakeside took a 056MagII and built it with all NOS parts and made what we may as well say a brand new 056. That was a the ultimate rebuild thread. Has he ever started that saw?, its been a few years now. He told me he was going to save it. Me, I wouldn't be able to resist not giving that thing a run in the wood.


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

bcorradi said:


> Good pics tom
> 
> I've replaced the P&C on quite a few of these saws and they aren't horrid to work on or really anymore time consuming than their pro counterparts. They are different, but definately not complicated eventhough others beg to differ.
> 
> On a sidenote...before I left for work this evening I told my son (9) and daughter (7) to see if they could tear down an 026 I had to the crankcase. I checked when I got back hom from work tonight and they got all the plastic off, muffler, all the gastank av mount screws, inner guide plate, carb, starter cover, sprocket cover, coil, etc. off the saw, but they weren't able to seperate the tank from the crankcase. They have watched me a few times, but they weren't able to push the intake boot through the tank housing and pull the impulse line off the crankcase. I was pretty impressed. They also didn't get the cylinder pulled off, but were able to get the four torx off.



Kids can amaze you on what all they can do for sure. Now when mine were small I would have said now don't mess with that saw. When I got home chances would be good the whole saw would be in a 100 pieces,LOL


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

woodgrenade said:


> Great post. Can't wait to see the 066 teardown/rebuild in the months to come.



Me too. I've been slowly getting all the parts for that saw. I got a box at the shop I been adding parts to almost on a weekly basis. That saw is gonna be like new other than the tank housing, crankcase and crank. Getting all OEM parts for that model is quite costly but I feel OEM parts is the only way to go...


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## 04ultra (Apr 18, 2010)

Are you sure that you used new bearings ???







.


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## kristin_110 (Apr 18, 2010)

Nice collection. Thanks for sharing!!


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

04ultra said:


> Are you sure that you used new bearings ???
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I think I did, hmmmmmmmmm, I go two old bearings sitting on the table, the new boxes are empty, I think they are in that saw, :monkey::monkey:


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## GASoline71 (Apr 18, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Thanks man. Hey gotta question for you. Remember the thread where Lakeside took a 056MagII and built it with all NOS parts and made what we may as well say a brand new 056. That was a the ultimate rebuild thread. Has he ever started that saw?, its been a few years now. He told me he was going to save it. Me, I wouldn't be able to resist not giving that thing a run in the wood.



I'm pretty darn sure that Mag2 has not seen wood. It's a beauty of a saw... 

Gary


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

GASoline71 said:


> I'm pretty darn sure that Mag2 has not seen wood. It's a beauty of a saw...
> 
> Gary



Dayumm his hide, he kept his word, not surprizing though, thats Lakeside for ya. Yes that saw was indeed the finest 056MagII I've ever seen. That guy is amazing, the site sure misses him and I do too, sure wish he would get off vacation and come on back and give us a holler


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

*Welp does it run*

I tossed that saw together last night and never bothered to start it. Alittle bit ago I took it out for alittle test ride. Found me a piece of good hard ash and let her have at it. How does it run and how well does it cut, well I had to compare it to something, my 346 told me never to do that to it again and cussed me all the way back to the shed, I really don't understand why,LOL


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## Tzed250 (Apr 18, 2010)

.


You are the man Tom!!!


.


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

Tzed250 said:


> .
> 
> 
> You are the man Tom!!!
> ...



Ya know T I figured those saws would be alittle closer than that. When you can walk around the block and finnish the cut with a second cut and still beat the time of the other saw thats pretty bad,LOLOLOL


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## Scandy14 (Apr 18, 2010)

Great post Tom. Thanks for sharing.


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## WildnCrazyGuy (Apr 18, 2010)

great thread Tom. I wish I had this before I muttled my way through one. It's working great, but, would have been easier. One observation. The Dirko. Isn't that a bit much? Aren't you supposed to lay a thin bead in the cracks of the pan?

I'm sure your way is much better, but I tried to be very precice with that part. And was very worried when I pulled the plug to check the color, and it was not brownish/tan, but red... I think I blew it all out, but I was worried.


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## blsnelling (Apr 18, 2010)

Am I reading this right? It took a 60cc Stihl to outcut the 50cc Husky?


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Am I reading this right? It took a 60cc Stihl to outcut the 50cc Husky?



LOL, no it took a 64 cc to do it, that 310 is toting a 390 cylinder. It was just for fun....


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## blsnelling (Apr 18, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> LOL, no it took a 64 cc to do it, that 310 is toting a 390 cylinder. It was just for fun....



Just messin' witcha:greenchainsaw:


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

WildnCrazyGuy said:


> great thread Tom. I wish I had this before I muttled my way through one. It's working great, but, would have been easier. One observation. The Dirko. Isn't that a bit much? Aren't you supposed to lay a thin bead in the cracks of the pan?
> 
> I'm sure your way is much better, but I tried to be very precice with that part. And was very worried when I pulled the plug to check the color, and it was not brownish/tan, but red... I think I blew it all out, but I was worried.



I used to put a very fine line of Dirko on but after one air leak and re-doing the whole thing I put it on kinda heavy now, no more air leaks. Any run off just gets cooked and blowed out, tant no biggie...


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Just messin' witcha:greenchainsaw:



All I need to do now is change the name plate from MS310 to MS290 and go torment some 346's,LOL

Both those saws had new chains on them, you can see the 3/8 chain on the Stihl really pulls more chips more aggressive than the .325 on the 346...


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## StihlyinEly (Apr 18, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> All I need to do now is change the name plate from MS310 to MS290 and go torment some 346's



Evil, evil, evil. But I mean that in a GOOD way!


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## blsnelling (Apr 18, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> All I need to do now is change the name plate from MS310 to MS290 and go torment some 346's,LOL
> 
> Both those saws had new chains on them, you can see the 3/8 chain on the Stihl really pulls more chips more aggressive than the .325 on the 346...



When I saw you start this thread, I was sure hoping you'd put a 390 topend on it There's not much difference in price if I recall.


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> When I saw you start this thread, I was sure hoping you'd put a 390 topend on it There's not much difference in price if I recall.



Actually the 390 jug and piston is a few bucks cheaper than a 290 cylinder. I think the price is higher on the 290 due to the popularity. The 390 has never been that much a seller.

I got 4 029's out in the shed that have been sitting for awhile. One day they will all be 390's. Power wise the 390 nips right at the heals of a 361...


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

StihlyinEly said:


> Evil, evil, evil. But I mean that in a GOOD way!



LOL, shoot the funny part is we all get these ideas to go race someone with a saw this is something its not. My problem is I cut most of the time by myself. 

I took a 290 and made it a 390 for my brother, he really likes that saw. Course for free he ought to,haha


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## BloodOnTheIce (Apr 18, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> When I saw you start this thread, I was sure hoping you'd put a 390 topend on it There's not much difference in price if I recall.



You mean free and free?


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

BloodOnTheIce said:


> You mean free and free?



I actually ordered two of those 390 kits but bought only one. I got a 066 I'm stocking up parts on and man that thing is really getting in my wallet. The other 390 kit is being stored at the shop. When I get that 066 done I'll toss another 390 together. These hobbies can pinch your wallet if you get too involved in them...


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## StihlyinEly (Apr 18, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> I got a 066 I'm stocking up parts on and man that thing is really getting in my wallet.



Sounds like you wouldn't mind a bit of Yankee capital to go with your Antebellum ingenuity on that 066 (especially if you were going to port and muff mod the gal.)


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## THALL10326 (Apr 18, 2010)

StihlyinEly said:


> Sounds like you wouldn't mind a bit of Yankee capital to go with your Antebellum ingenuity on that 066 (especially if you were going to port and muff mod the gal.)



Well that saw is a mights costly. I got a box at the shop that I have been adding parts to for awhile. New bearings, gasket set, cylinder/piston, oil pump, clutch assembly, handle bar, chain break handle, all new covers, muffler. All new OEM parts. Haven't ordered all the new buffers yet but will. When it gets laid out on the operating table it will go back together as near new as I can get it. Doing it this way runs into money, alot of it but the saw will be a real gem to own....


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## 2000ssm6 (Apr 18, 2010)

Troll is going to have a fit when he sees his beloved 346 take a beat down from a homeowner 310, LOLOLOL. I'll be sure to remind him of this video when he talks smack about the 290/310/390 saws.


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## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

2000ssm6 said:


> Troll is going to have a fit when he sees his beloved 346 take a beat down from a homeowner 310, LOLOLOL. I'll be sure to remind him of this video when he talks smack about the 290/310/390 saws.



LOL, meanie. It coulda been worse, my box of junk , oppps, MS310, oopps, 390 wasn't even broke in yet, that was its very first two cuts,LOLOLOL


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## StihlGuitar (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


>


I've never greased my seals before. Do you do this on pro models too? I usually put them in dry. Also, on pro models, do you find it best to put the seals in before or after the crankcase has been assembled?


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## 2000ssm6 (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> LOL, meanie. It coulda been worse, my box of junk , oppps, MS310, oopps, 390 wasn't even broke in yet, that was its very first two cuts,LOLOLOL



The 346 was for sure out of it's element. That was homeowner type wood, hahaha. I always told myself if I come across a clean, top end toasted 290 it will turn into a sleeper 390. I will then travel to the land of tooth picks, Norway and lay the smack down on Troll's 346. Or I could just take one of my 026s, 260s or the new 261 when it arrives.


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## StihlGuitar (Apr 19, 2010)

yakntx said:


> Wow, when you are not discussing oil you actually have some good ideas.



Dude (and I rarely use that word, but this time it is appropriate) ARE YOU A FUKIN PROPHET?? You have 58 posts and more rep than guys who have thousands...are you handin out free saws for positive rep or somethin???Thats amazing. how the heck did that happen?


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## StihlGuitar (Apr 19, 2010)

Stihl051master said:


> Is that a smoked piston on top, or just a hunka burnin' love?



Its a Guatemalan 028 Big Bore kit.


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## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

StihlGuitar said:


> I've never greased my seals before. Do you do this on pro models too? I usually put them in dry. Also, on pro models, do you find it best to put the seals in before or after the crankcase has been assembled?



Greasing the seals is common practice, thats how I was taught to do it. I'm told they are greased at the factory as well during assembly. I think it just makes them slide on easier and maybe seal and seat a tad better during break in. I grease seals on everything whether its saw, trimmer or blower. One thing to remember is to be sure and wipe the flywheel side crank end off real good with some sort of degreaser. If not that grease can actually bust a flywheel when you tighten it down...

Opps, misread your post. Seals on the pro saws I always put in after everything is assembled.


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## StihlGuitar (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Notta pro blem bo man,LOL I've done alot of those saws. Hell this morning I had a 250 that lost a clutch spring and chewed the case near the oil pump. Left a hole right at the bottom of the oil pump, would not pump oil due to the gap in the case. Hour later a new engine housing and she's oiling like a new saw.
> 
> Here in a month or so I'm gonna do a complete tear down and re-assemble of a 066. Gonna take it right down to the crank and bring it back to a complete saw. Some have a tuff time splitting cases and installing bearings. We gonna showem step by step how easy it really is, should be fun,



I avoided cracking cases for over a year. While I probably should have started with something like an 026 rebuild, I decided to do an ms660 my first time...lol. It isn't nearly as intimidating as it seems. I've done about 8 of them now. I'm still unsure about whether or not to put seals on before or after re-assembly though...might be a stupid question, but I've done it both ways and don't remember which of the two was more burdensome...I have to quit posting to this thread as I think this is my fourth in a row..sorry guys.


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## StihlGuitar (Apr 19, 2010)

Have you ever ported these clamshells? I did a mild port on an ms280 a week or so ago, but I'm wondering what is the best method, if at all to mod the transfers. I just made them slightly deeper, but its a different ballgame than the pro saws...enlighten me please...


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## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

StihlGuitar said:


> I avoided cracking cases for over a year. While I probably should have started with something like an 026 rebuild, I decided to do an ms660 my first time...lol. It isn't nearly as intimidating as it seems. I've done about 8 of them now. I'm still unsure about whether or not to put seals on before or after re-assembly though...might be a stupid question, but I've done it both ways and don't remember which of the two was more burdensome...I have to quit posting to this thread as I think this is my fourth in a row..sorry guys.



Seals are no biggie. On pro saws most times they are harder to get out than to press in. I use seal presses but a regular socket will work just fine too. Main thing is not to put them in too deep with a socket. The press automaticly puts them at the right depth. I had a 028 once that I like to never got the flywheel seal out, man that thing was in there to stay. I got it though , was alot of cussing involved,LOL


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## StihlGuitar (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> All I need to do now is change the name plate from MS310 to MS290 and go torment some 346's,LOL
> 
> Both those saws had new chains on them, you can see the 3/8 chain on the Stihl really pulls more chips more aggressive than the .325 on the 346...



I'm predominantly a Stihl guy, but I'll gladly trade you a ms390 or 039 for a 346xp all day long...that 50cc saw may not hang with the 64cc but the power to weight ratio and, more specifically, the operating rpm make the 346xp a far better saw. I had an 039 that I went through thoroughly. I put a new piston in it and although it hadn't seated yet, the saw was a dog, even after muffler mod. I don't know why, but it was a horrible saw (more horrible than normal.)


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## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

StihlGuitar said:


> Have you ever ported these clamshells? I did a mild port on an ms280 a week or so ago, but I'm wondering what is the best method, if at all to mod the transfers. I just made them slightly deeper, but its a different ballgame than the pro saws...enlighten me please...



Never tried my hand at porting anything, welp I take that back. I do have one 026 I did alittle grinding on a long time ago. Turned out pretty good, gained alittle power but not enuff to write home about. I think to really get the most out of porting you have to increase the fuel supply, compression, and work the exhaust too. Then the chain needs a major tune up too to really get those times down. I'm fine with stock though porting and what all goes along with it is interesting to read about...


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## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

StihlGuitar said:


> I'm predominantly a Stihl guy, but I'll gladly trade you a ms390 or 039 for a 346xp all day long...that 50cc saw may not hang with the 64cc but the power to weight ratio and, more specifically, the operating rpm make the 346xp a far better saw. I had an 039 that I went through thoroughly. I put a new piston in it and although it hadn't seated yet, the saw was a dog, even after muffler mod. I don't know why, but it was a horrible saw (more horrible than normal.)



Well I'm old school I guess. I've never replaced just the piston, its always new jug and piston. So far all I've put together that way seem to run as good as the model they are suppose to be. A 390 is no speed machine by any means but it does ok. The 346 is a fun saw for sure. That saw and the 5100 Dolmar seem to have been at it since they come out, the guys argu to no end over those two saws...


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## belgian (Apr 19, 2010)

Tommy, nice rebuilt...Stihl#1 will be proud of ya...!!

That ring retaining tool is a nice tool to have for sure. 
Did you ever take apart an 015(L) ? It has the same cylinder design but it has a freaking main rod bearing with loose rollers that like to fall out during assembly. I replaced a scored piston on one last week and 1 tiny roller fell out unnnoticed during assy....when I tightened the pan onto the cylinder, that little bugger punched a nice hole in the case......grrrrr. :monkey:



> These hobbies can pinch your wallet if you get too involved in them...


 
Now you know why you have to be "cheap" sometimes if you want them 200 saws in your collection to run .....otherwise you spent a small fortune, hint, hint....


----------



## ECRUPPRECHT (Apr 19, 2010)

was that a brand new cylinder?? i thought if you smoke a clamshell then it is pretty much garbage??? also anyone have a good ms270 cylinder they want to sell? or engine??


----------



## 2000ssm6 (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


>



I just thought some of the guys waking up would like to see this again.


----------



## belgian (Apr 19, 2010)

2000ssm6 said:


> I just thought some of the guys waking up would like to see this again.



I am clear awake allready.

Have you ever handled a 346XP ? I wouldn't trade it for two 390's if I had to work with it all day. You also do realise there's no need for comparison of different cc class saws...


----------



## StihlGuitar (Apr 19, 2010)

yakntx said:


> Nah, I just know how to talk without saying Dude or Fukin.



Well this is probably the first post that I've used either, but I only seem to get rep when I call out those who bathe themselves in narcissism.


----------



## edisto (Apr 19, 2010)

StihlyinEly said:


> I think this is one of those threads that's going to go into the AS Homeowner Saw THall of Fame. Cool, that you're doing this!
> 
> I vote that, once Tommy's pictorial is finished, all the chatter in between his posts gets deleted so the thread can serve as a fine tutorial, with the golf claps and inevitable bickering coming after.





GASoline71 said:


> For this thread to be helpful... I say when Tom is done... the mods delete all the posts in between all of Tom's steps... including this one.
> 
> That way it'll be easier to look at the thread as a "how to" build.
> 
> Gary



I love the irony.

Put up too many of these and you are going to put yourself out of business Tommy!


----------



## edisto (Apr 19, 2010)

yakntx said:


> I think it has to do with who gives you rep. If I gave you rep it wouldn't amount to much. If the king Mow or Ultra, Saw Troll or others give you rep it would move your little bars quite a bit.



Or you can just find some circle-jerk rep thread in the off the topic forum and rep each other all day long.


----------



## fatjoe (Apr 19, 2010)

Excellent post Sir!


----------



## Mastermind (Apr 19, 2010)

edisto said:


> Or you can just find some circle-jerk rep thread in the off the topic forum and rep each other all day long.



Who cares about the rep anywho? I tried to pay my light bill with mine yesterday...no go...


----------



## edisto (Apr 19, 2010)

yakntx said:


> Which one did you hang out at



Not hard to find out. Just click on the username, then select "find more posts by the user".

Or you can search threads by user. Turns out some people have almost half their posts in a single thread.

To each their own. If little stars and bars tickle your pickle, then good luck to ya.

Me? I'm going to stop messing up Tom's thread any more than I already have.


----------



## huskystihl (Apr 19, 2010)

I'm no saw mechanic just an operator but the whole clamshell thing seems to be blow way out of perportion as you just proved. We got a new 270 that had a crank seal leak and dropped it off at lunch and it was fixed in a few hours and that was by a stihl shop owner who has to wait on customers as well. Obviously had to wait for everything to set up but he's more comfy workin on a 290 than a 260 simply because he sells them 20 to 1. Great thread Tommy!


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## 2000ssm6 (Apr 19, 2010)

edisto said:


> If little stars and bars tickle your pickle, then good luck to ya.



Ed, I'm not sure what to make of this....


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

edisto said:


> Not hard to find out. Just click on the username, then select "find more posts by the user".
> 
> Or you can search threads by user. Turns out some people have almost half their posts in a single thread.
> 
> ...



Your not messing anything up, shoot if you noticed I merely did the whole process by pics and said nothing. Whats the ole saying, a picture is worth a thousand words. Hopefully some can look at the pics and see how that series of saw comes together. Its really fairly easy but maybe alittle awkward for the 1st timers...


----------



## 2000ssm6 (Apr 19, 2010)

huskystihl said:


> I'm no saw mechanic just an operator but the whole clamshell thing seems to be blow way out of perportion as you just proved. We got a new 270 that had a crank seal leak and dropped it off at lunch and it was fixed in a few hours and that was by a stihl shop owner who has to wait on customers as well. Obviously had to wait for everything to set up but he's more comfy workin on a 290 than a 260 simply because he sells them 20 to 1. Great thread Tommy!



The fact that so many 029 and 290 saws are Stihl running proves the clamshell isn't lacking anything. Those saws run forever...


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

huskystihl said:


> I'm no saw mechanic just an operator but the whole clamshell thing seems to be blow way out of perportion as you just proved. We got a new 270 that had a crank seal leak and dropped it off at lunch and it was fixed in a few hours and that was by a stihl shop owner who has to wait on customers as well. Obviously had to wait for everything to set up but he's more comfy workin on a 290 than a 260 simply because he sells them 20 to 1. Great thread Tommy!



There has always been a big misconception about the clam shell design. They require alittle more time to take apart and put back together but the design itself is very strong and dependable...


----------



## edisto (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Your not messing anything up, shoot if you noticed I merely did the whole process by pics and said nothing. Whats the ole saying, a picture is worth a thousand words. Hopefully some can look at the pics and see how that series of saw comes together. Its really fairly easy but maybe alittle awkward for the 1st timers...



That's why this thread is so notable. Not only is it an excellent resource, but you actually let something that speaks for itself...well...speak for itself!

Top notch Tommy!


----------



## edisto (Apr 19, 2010)

2000ssm6 said:


> Ed, I'm not sure what to make of this....



I would recommend against making a sandwich with it.


----------



## 2000ssm6 (Apr 19, 2010)

edisto said:


> I would recommend against making a sandwich with it.



Most certainly.


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## MS390 (Apr 19, 2010)

*toll tha holds the piston rings???*



THALL10326 said:


>



where did you get it from???.... 

Thanks for a great thread


----------



## hoss (Apr 19, 2010)

Nice job there Tommy. Be careful though or you'll have people thinkin that you do this for a livin or sumthin.


----------



## huskystihl (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> There has always been a big misconception about the clam shell design. They require alittle more time to take apart and put back together but the design itself is very strong and dependable...



I can tell ya that my shop who is third generation stihl is way more at home working on a 290 over a 361 simply because he doesn't stock mid power professional grade saws, he always stocks a 650 or 660 and a couple of 200t's. In his own words "your welcome to have me order ya a 260 but a 270 will do the same for a-lot less" I know to many here it sounds crazy but it is true. In my area people know 2 names when it comes to equipment, John deere and Stihl and they are also a bunch of tightwads that beleive in taking care of quality without breaking the bank. I remember when I first joined here guys laughing at my 359 while I also owned a 360pro and a couple od 044's I couldn't figure out why and still can't, it never wore out and never made me wish it was faster or had more power. Same goes for the 250, since stihl lowered the price he told me just this morning he's sold over a hundred of them boogers and only had a few back because the owners were new to saws and flooded them out.


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

MS390 said:


> where did you get it from???....
> 
> Thanks for a great thread



Those compressors aren't hard to get, cost about 4 bucks. That one compressor will do the 290/310 and 390. Can get em at any Stihl dealer though he may have to order it for you..


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

hoss said:


> Nice job there Tommy. Be careful though or you'll have people thinkin that you do this for a livin or sumthin.



Dayummm I hope not, you know how those Stihl dealers are, sorry bunch of critters,LOL


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

huskystihl said:


> I can tell ya that my shop who is third generation stihl is way more at home working on a 290 over a 361 simply because he doesn't stock mid power professional grade saws, he always stocks a 650 or 660 and a couple of 200t's. In his own words "your welcome to have me order ya a 260 but a 270 will do the same for a-lot less" I know to many here it sounds crazy but it is true. In my area people know 2 names when it comes to equipment, John deere and Stihl and they are also a bunch of tightwads that beleive in taking care of quality without breaking the bank. I remember when I first joined here guys laughing at my 359 while I also owned a 360pro and a couple od 044's I couldn't figure out why and still can't, it never wore out and never made me wish it was faster or had more power. Same goes for the 250, since stihl lowered the price he told me just this morning he's sold over a hundred of them boogers and only had a few back because the owners were new to saws and flooded them out.



I know what your saying. Shoot homeowner type saws probably outsell pro saws 100-1, maybe more. On here we are considered saw buffs so naturally we gotta have the best the makers offer. Average Joe could care less, long as it runs and cuts he's happy..


----------



## MS390 (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Those compressors aren't hard to get, cost about 4 bucks. That one compressor will do the 290/310 and 390. Can get em at any Stihl dealer though he may have to order it for you..



which compressors is good,i should put another P/C on 023/025,bought one of each of them


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

MS390 said:


> which compressors is good,i should put another P/C on 023/025,bought one of each of them



You don't need a compressor at all for those models. The bottom of the jug is beveled out. Merely line up your rings up on the piston pins and slip the piston into the jug. The beveled jug makes it real easy on those models...


----------



## mimilkman1 (Apr 19, 2010)

What about that bar stud removal tool. Is that a Stihl thing, or is it universal to some other brands? Great thread BTW! 

Kyle


----------



## MS390 (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> You don't need a compressor at all for those models. The bottom of the jug is beveled out. Merely line up your rings up on the piston pins and slip the piston into the jug. The beveled jug makes it real easy on those models...




thanks for the info........:yourock:


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

mimilkman1 said:


> What about that bar stud removal tool. Is that a Stihl thing, or is it universal to some other brands? Great thread BTW!
> 
> Kyle



Not really. You can buy a 8mm stud puller/installer at any auto parts store. Some find that puller abit of a pain but for me it works great. The key to using it is use it slowly. Once it gets a grip on the stud keep pressure on it and turn it slowly, no ratcheting, just slow easy complete turning. Mine has never met a stud yet it has slipped on or couldn't remove...


----------



## StihlyinEly (Apr 19, 2010)

mimilkman1 said:


> What about that bar stud removal tool. Is that a Stihl thing, or is it universal to some other brands? Great thread BTW!
> 
> Kyle



Um, why buy a tool that's not needed? I just lock two nuts against each other onto a stud I want to jerk and then put a wrench on the rear nut and back it off until I can get it off with my fingers. And then separate the two nuts and remove them before I get the stud off. Installation is the reverse of removal. Do it all the time.

Is a stud removal tool faster? 

Um, I proofread this before sending, and I see that someone might quote part of it out of context and make a joke ripe with innuendo. You go, girlymen!


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

StihlyinEly said:


> Um, why buy a tool that's not needed? I just lock two nuts against each other onto a stud I want to jerk and then put a wrench on the rear nut and back it off until I can get it off with my fingers. And then separate the two nuts and remove them before I get the stud off. Installation is the reverse of removal. Do it all the time.
> 
> Is a stud removal tool faster?
> 
> Um, I proofread this before sending, and I see that someone might quote part of it out of context and make a joke ripe with innuendo.



I've never tried doing that, sounds like it would take ohhh about 3 minutes or so according to my "cow cool lations",LOLOL


----------



## edisto (Apr 19, 2010)

StihlyinEly said:


> I just lock two nuts against each other onto a stud I want to jerk and then put a wrench on the rear nut and back it off until I can get it off with my fingers. And then separate the two nuts and remove them before I get the stud off.



Ummm....your Freudian slip is showing.



StihlyinEly said:


> Um, I proofread this before sending, and I see that someone might quote part of it out of context and make a joke ripe with innuendo. You go, girlymen!



You proofread it and sent it anyway?


----------



## spacemule (Apr 19, 2010)

Why don't you post some pictures of chain sharpening? :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## StihlyinEly (Apr 19, 2010)

edisto said:


> Ummm....your Freudian slip is showing.
> 
> You proofread it and sent it anyway?



edistossiah, Edistossiah, EDISTOSSIAH, _EDISTOSSIAH!_

The roar of the crowd kneeling before the self-proclaimed king is _deafening!_


----------



## edisto (Apr 19, 2010)

spacemule said:


> Why don't you post some pictures of chain sharpening? :hmm3grin2orange:



A man talented enough to make clamshell work look easy shouldn't have to dirty his hands on a chain.

Besides, Tommy gets the disposable kind.


----------



## edisto (Apr 19, 2010)

StihlyinEly said:


> edistossiah, Edistossiah, EDISTOSSIAH, _EDISTOSSIAH!_
> 
> The roar of the crowd kneeling before the self-proclaimed king is _deafening!_



Double entendre, overly dramatic...if you start busting out the show tunes, I'm going to start worrying.


----------



## spacemule (Apr 19, 2010)

edisto said:


> Besides, Tommy gets the disposable kind.



He does sell Stihl. You've got a point there. :hmm3grin2orange:


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## StihlGuitar (Apr 19, 2010)

spacemule said:


> He does sell Stihl. You've got a point there. :hmm3grin2orange:



yup, Stihl is disposable. However if that be the case, Stihl is the everlasting gobstopper and Husqvarna is an M&M (a red M&M) Stihl is also a Good 'n Plenty though...


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

spacemule said:


> Why don't you post some pictures of chain sharpening? :hmm3grin2orange:



Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr may you walk up behind a cow that just ate 50 lbs of green alfalfa hay and she coughs,:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

However much I hate sharpening chains I can sharpen a chain,


----------



## edisto (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr may you walk up behind a cow that just ate 50 lbs of green alfalfa hay and she coughs,:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> However much I hate sharpening chains I can sharpen a chain,



They all look sharp when the picture is fuzzy!


----------



## stihl sawing (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr may you walk up behind a cow that just ate 50 lbs of green alfalfa hay and she coughs,:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> However much I hate sharpening chains I can sharpen a chain,


Good deal, I'm sendin you 42 of them and not takin no for an answer.


----------



## Trigger Man (Apr 19, 2010)

Tommy could you show a picture of your seal press that you use on pro style saws? Is it the same as a bearing press?


----------



## StihlGuitar (Apr 19, 2010)

Nuthin the Silvey can't straighten out...shoot a blurry picture will still look clear after sharpening with it...


----------



## Trigger Man (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr may you walk up behind a cow that just ate 50 lbs of green alfalfa hay and she coughs,:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> However much I hate sharpening chains I can sharpen a chain,



Tom, it takes more than one cutter to make a sharp chain,lol


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

edisto said:


> They all look sharp when the picture is fuzzy!



Best I could do, LOL, chains make my hand tremble with hate,grrrrrrrrrrrrrr


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

Trigger Man said:


> Tommy could you show a picture of your seal press that you use on pro style saws? Is it the same as a bearing press?



Gotem at the shop , I'll snap ya a pic for ya tomorrow....


----------



## Trigger Man (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Gotem at the shop , I'll snap ya a pic for ya tomorrow....



Cool, much appreciated. Are they expensive?


----------



## StihlGuitar (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Gotem at the shop , I'll snap ya a pic for ya tomorrow....



Tom, I think the majority of the guys on here would appreciate you dressing up as a character that best expresses your inner child when you taking the pictures tomorrow. I think that you will experience an unfamiliar freedom when you bare all with no inhibition. Go get em tiger!


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

Trigger Man said:


> Cool, much appreciated. Are they expensive?



Not really, anywhere from 8.00-25.00, can use them for bearings presses as well...


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

StihlGuitar said:


> Tom, I think the majority of the guys on here would appreciate you dressing up as a character that best expresses your inner child when you taking the pictures tomorrow. I think that you will experience an unfamiliar freedom when you bare all with no inhibition. Go get em tiger!



Haha, tant nuttin but saws and tools, no biggie...


----------



## Trigger Man (Apr 19, 2010)

No harm intended, but I think wearing a Elvis costume might hurt sales,:hmm3grin2orange:, and would be a ##### to work on equipment in.


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

Trigger Man said:


> No harm intended, but I think wearing a Elvis costume might hurt sales,:hmm3grin2orange:, and would be a ##### to work on equipment in.


----------



## stihl sawing (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


>


Hey Tom, What does a 660 sell for these days? With a 32 inch bar and RSC chain.


----------



## StihlGuitar (Apr 19, 2010)

We should all dress up as characters from the broadway show, Cats. We could do little performances at THALL's shop, and base the intensity of the performance on the amount of money the client has spent.


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 19, 2010)

stihl sawing said:


> Hey Tom, What does a 660 sell for these days? With a 32 inch bar and RSC chain.



Little over 1100.00. Prices vary depending how bad the dealer wants to move it........


----------



## StihlyinEly (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr may you walk up behind a cow that just ate 50 lbs of green alfalfa hay and she coughs



Oooof! Ugh! Puke! :taped:


----------



## StihlGuitar (Apr 19, 2010)

stihl sawing said:


> Hey Tom, What does a 660 sell for these days? With a 32 inch bar and RSC chain.



I just sold a 660 big bore with new 36" Rollomatic and full comp skiptoothchan, new bearings seals gasket, top handle, recoil, clutch cover, chain break for 700$ 044 Big Bore included with my Northern Tool grinder..12000$


----------



## edisto (Apr 19, 2010)

StihlGuitar said:


> We should all dress up as characters from the broadway show, Cats. We could do little performances at THALL's shop, and base the intensity of the performance on the amount of money the client has spent.



You go stand in the corner with Stihly.


----------



## stihl sawing (Apr 19, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Little over 1100.00. Prices vary depending how bad the dealer wants to move it........


Thank you, I foresee one in the near future. I looked at a 460 saturday and they wanted 1000 for it with a 20 inch bar. they didn't have a 660, For some reason the dealers don't keep many in stock.


----------



## StihlGuitar (Apr 19, 2010)

stihl sawing said:


> Thank you, I foresee one in the near future. I looked at a 460 saturday and they wanted 1000 for it with a 20 inch bar. they didn't have a 660, For some reason the dealers don't keep many in stock.



Buying a new saw is like buying a new car. The minute you take it into the woods its used...It makes sense if you're Joe weekend cutter, or even Joe monthly cutter, but if you are reading this, you can fix about anything on a saw and need not drive it off the lot for a new price.


----------



## stihl sawing (Apr 19, 2010)

StihlGuitar said:


> Buying a new saw is like buying a new car. The minute you take it into the woods its used...It makes sense if you're Joe weekend cutter, or even Joe monthly cutter, but if you are reading this, you can fix about anything on a saw and need not drive it off the lot for a new price.


It don't have to be new, got some hospital bills to take care of first and a little more healing to go and i will be ready. Like you said all the saws i own now are used ones.


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 20, 2010)

Trigger Man said:


> Tommy could you show a picture of your seal press that you use on pro style saws? Is it the same as a bearing press?









There's a few of them. They work really well for when you tap the seals in with them they put them at exactly the right depth...


----------



## wigglesworth (Apr 20, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> There's a few of them. They work really well for when you tap the seals in with them they put them at exactly the right depth...



Now fess up....how much $$ we looking at there?


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 20, 2010)

wigglesworth said:


> Now fess up....how much $$ we looking at there?



Little bit, well ok, quite alot if you count everything in that one drawer but the presses aren't that high. Remember too the guy at home doesn't need all those things, at the shop they a must haves...


----------



## wigglesworth (Apr 20, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Little bit, well ok, quite alot if you count everything in that one drawer but the presses aren't that high. Remember too the guy at home doesn't need all those things, at the shop they a must haves...



Most of us "guys at home" dont need 10 pro grade saws either 


FWIW, I'm down to 3 now


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 20, 2010)

wigglesworth said:


> Most of us "guys at home" dont need 10 pro grade saws either
> 
> 
> FWIW, I'm down to 3 now



3 is plenty, most get by with one with no problems at all.......


----------



## wigglesworth (Apr 20, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> 3 is plenty, most get by with one with no problems at all.......



I could probably get by with one, but them 044's are like Pringles...you cant have just one.


----------



## StihlyinEly (Apr 20, 2010)

wigglesworth said:


> Most of us "guys at home" dont need 10 pro grade saws either. FWIW, I'm down to 3 now



Hmmm, if you found a cure for CAD, you should patent and market it.


----------



## luvsaws (Apr 20, 2010)

Since we are kinda on tool prices ,what does on of them seal pullers go for?


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 20, 2010)

luvsaws said:


> Since we are kinda on tool prices ,what does on of them seal pullers go for?



Seal pullers vary quite alot, all depends on how much the dealer wants to make on it. Its not really a retail item but some do sell them. The dealer is looking at around 135.00. What he tacks on at time of sale is up to him..


----------



## stinkbait (Apr 20, 2010)

What's the part number for one of them seal pullers?


----------



## luvsaws (Apr 20, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Seal pullers vary quite alot, all depends on how much the dealer wants to make on it. Its not really a retail item but some do sell them. The dealer is looking at around 135.00. What he tacks on at time of sale is up to him..



Thanks,
I am thinking if I go in and buy a new saw I will probaly get it for the 135 :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 20, 2010)

stinkbait said:


> what's the part number for one of them seal pullers?



5910-890-4400


----------



## THALL10326 (Apr 20, 2010)

luvsaws said:


> Thanks,
> I am thinking if I go in and buy a new saw I will probaly get it for the 135 :hmm3grin2orange:



You better call ahead and make sure he has one for sale, most dealers don't stock repair tools, shoot some won't even sell them at all for fear of losing repair work. I think thats kinda silly myself, I like it when they try to do it themselves and have to bring it in for me to fix their mess ups,LOL


----------



## fatjoe (Apr 20, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> Your not messing anything up, shoot if you noticed I merely did the whole process by pics and said nothing. Whats the ole saying, a picture is worth a thousand words. Hopefully some can look at the pics and see how that series of saw comes together. Its really fairly easy but maybe alittle awkward for the 1st timers...



Again, Excellent post.The second saw I rebuilt was my 039.I bought a brand new oem p/c from my dealer for $140.00(said it was on the shelf for years.)i snatched it up.I didn`t use the kit cause the saw was too beat up and old for such a nice kit.I bought a used cylinder from one of you fine members and a piston from Greece.I`m saving the new oem for a newer smoked ms 390.I found, that as a home do-it- yourselfer, that the clamshell engine is more appealing because I could rebuild the whole saw without splitting the case.I still haven`t split a case on a Stihl(or any other saw).I do have a nice ms260 pro that needs new bearings, but I`m gonna wait for your 066 pics.Are you gonna show how to do it with minimal tools(homeowner) or how a shop would do it?Either way, I can`t wait.Thanks for sharing your brain with us.


----------



## KMB (Apr 20, 2010)

Well, I'm late to this party. I too want to say thanks for the thread Tom. It'll be bookmarked for future reference when I get into my 039.

Kevin


----------



## Trigger Man (Apr 20, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> There's a few of them. They work really well for when you tap the seals in with them they put them at exactly the right depth...



Tommy, when looking at the pic of your tool box are the seal drivers at the bottom of the pic?, also are they something you buy through stihl or at a auto supply store? I've seen the drivers that husky makes but I think you need one for just about every different saw thats made, Oh do the drivers fit over the crank?


----------



## little possum (Apr 20, 2010)

THALL10326 said:


> You better call ahead and make sure he has one for sale, most dealers don't stock repair tools, shoot some won't even sell them at all for fear of losing repair work. I think thats kinda silly myself, I like it when they try to do it themselves and have to bring it in for me to fix their mess ups,LOL



Are you sure you arent my dealer? You sound a lot like him. lol. Well minus the Elvis part
He helps out when we are stumped, and AS is of no help.


----------



## medic8852 (Apr 26, 2011)

*Interested in doing another?*

Excellent thread! I have a straight gassed ms310 sitting in my garage and was thinking of making it a 390. Your tutorial makes it look fairly easy.


----------



## 1969cj-5 (May 10, 2012)

Here is my Burned 310 with the Northwoods C&P sitting with it. I am trying to decide weather to tear into it myself or send it down to Stumpy. I recieved the 310/390 shop manual but I am still a bit scared...


----------



## Applehead (May 14, 2012)

1969cj-5 said:


> Here is my Burned 310 with the Northwoods C&P sitting with it. I am trying to decide weather to tear into it myself or send it down to Stumpy. I recieved the 310/390 shop manual but I am still a bit scared...



Only one way to learn..
Did you get new oil seals ? I dont see em in the pic.


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## Stihlofadeal64 (May 14, 2012)

1969cj-5 said:


> Here is my Burned 310 with the Northwoods C&P sitting with it. I am trying to decide weather to tear into it myself or send it down to Stumpy. I recieved the 310/390 shop manual but I am still a bit scared...



Is that the MS390 top end?


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## Applehead (May 14, 2012)

StihlGuitar said:


> I've never greased my seals before. Do you do this on pro models too? I usually put them in dry. Also, on pro models, do you find it best to put the seals in before or after the crankcase has been assembled?





Any advantage to using the stihl compressor over the generic one from NW ?

Piston ring clamp set


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## nmurph (May 14, 2012)

Applehead said:


> Any advantage to using the stihl compressor over the generic one from NW ?
> 
> Piston ring clamp set



If you are talking about these-

Piston ring clamp set

they will not work with a Stihl clam-shell. The Stihl compressor locks tight and holds the ring compressed. Because the clamshell has the top half of the crankcase attached to the cylinder base, the rings have to get way up into the bottom of the cylinder bf they slip into the bore. Some people can get their fingers into the bottom and get the rings to slip in, I cannot. You might also try a zip tie...but honestly, the clamp is only ~$6 and makes the job a breeze.


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## Applehead (May 14, 2012)

nmurph said:


> If you are talking about these-
> 
> Piston ring clamp set
> 
> they will not work with a Stihl clam-shell. The Stihl compressor locks tight and holds the ring compressed. Because the clamshell has the top half of the crankcase attached to the cylinder base, the rings have to get way up into the bottom of the cylinder bf they slip into the bore. Some people can get their fingers into the bottom and get the rings to slip in, I cannot. You might also try a zip tie...but honestly, the clamp is only ~$6 and makes the job a breeze.



Thanks,nMurph. Thats the info I needed. 
I stopped at my local dealer , even brought in a pic. But we couldn't find it on the puter , anyone know the part # ?


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## nmurph (May 14, 2012)

Here's the PN-

1127-893-2602


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## Applehead (May 14, 2012)

nmurph said:


> Here's the PN-
> 
> 1127-893-2602



TYVM $6 & it will be here Wed.


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## Rokon (Sep 4, 2012)

Special thanks to the OP for this thread with great pics. 

I just finished up an 039 rebuild with the help here. Runs like a champ!


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## Aledafis (Sep 30, 2013)

Sorry to drag up an old thread, but can anybody help me with viewing the pictures, I'm about to rebuild my first chainsaw and it happens to be an MS290, so this thread seems to be just what I'm lloking for.

Thanks
Aled


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## griffonks (Oct 1, 2013)

What do you need to know? I have a manual and a ms390 torn down. 

How far are you disassembling the saw? I also have an extra complete OEM cylinder/piston.


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## kr5258 (Oct 1, 2013)

I have a series of 19 photos illustrating the teardown of a MS290. Private message your email address to me and I'll send the photos. The total file size is 1.23MB.


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## Beaverblade (Oct 3, 2013)

*Ms 290*

I have a 2012 MS 290. Will I have to replace the jets for the bigger 390 top end rebuild? Do the 290 jets distribute enough fuel for the larger demand of the 390 jug and piston?


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## Chipthrower (Dec 29, 2013)

I know its an old post but all the pics are broken and I can't view any of them. Is there something I am doing wrong??
Any help or new link would be greatly appreciated. I cant seem to remove the clutch or find any help on clutch removal in the search function.


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## jeremyc (Dec 29, 2013)

Clutch has reverse threads , you can use a piston stop tool or stuff the cylinder full with a piece of rope to lock the engine from turning while removing the clutch.


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## Rookie1 (Jan 2, 2014)

Chipthrower said:


> I know its an old post but all the pics are broken and I can't view any of them. Is there something I am doing wrong??
> Any help or new link would be greatly appreciated. I cant seem to remove the clutch or find any help on clutch removal in the search function.


The Forum had some hacker issues so old pics arent on anymore.


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## Robjohn315 (May 28, 2014)

Why can't I see the pics


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## watsonr (May 28, 2014)

Rookie1 said:


> The Forum had some hacker issues so old pics arent on anymore.



They moved servers/software... something like that and lost all the pics.


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## Robjohn315 (May 28, 2014)

Man that's a bummer, any other threads like this. I'm going to attempt to rebuild a ms290 for my dad.


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## Mastermind (May 28, 2014)

Just start a thread in the chainsaw forum.......plenty of people will help. 

Send me a PM.....and I'll send you a service manual.


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