# Driving wedges with a maul



## KMB (Jun 19, 2006)

I bought a sledge and maul (both 8 lb.) yesterday. I'll be picking up two 5 lb. wedges tomorrow. I have access and use a splitter, but sometimes I like to split by hand for the exercise. And also to split the big rounds so I can get them up on the splitter. Until now, I had borrowed a maul, sledge and wedges, but I wanted my own stuff.
I think I've read here on AS (I did a search, but couldn't find the thread or post) that a maul should only be used for splitting - and not to use the back of the maul to drive wedges. I know I've read that while doing a Goggle search on mauls. It had been said that even with a flat place on the back of the maul, that a maul was not designed to take the place of a sledge. Another place said that one end of the maul is for notching the wood for a wedge, and the back (of maul) is for driving the wedge.
At the place where I bought the maul, the sign described the maul for splitting and wedge driving purposes. I bought both anyway - it's good to have a sledge around anyway. For knocking out a stuck maul or knocking off a stuck piece of wood on the splitter's wedge or whatever.
So what's everybody's opinion, comment, advice on this matter.
Here's a picture of the maul I bought.







Kevin


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## KMB (Jun 19, 2006)

I just got a outdoor magazine that I subscribe to in the mail and it has an article on axes and mauls. They also mentioned using a maul for splitting and driving wedges. They also suggested sinking the maul into wood as far as it would go and then using a sledge to drive the maul further into the wood to finish the split.
Again, opinions, comments, advice on this matter.

Kevin


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## 1CallLandscape (Jun 19, 2006)

hey, i have that same maul...its alot better than the others you can buy... it spits real easy. holds an edge for a while...
-mike


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## daemon2525 (Jun 19, 2006)

You may be all right with that particular maul. I like the looks of it.

The problem with driving wedges with a normal maul, is that the sides of the head of the maul, around the handle hole are not as strong as a sledge. By driving with it, you will misshape or break the sides and the handle will fall out.


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## clearance (Jun 19, 2006)

*Eye Protection*

I have seen big chips come off mauls when used to hit wedges, I use an 8lb. sledge. Important point here, wear eye protection, over time mushrooming happens, even if something does not mushroom chips can occur, flaws in metal, improper usage etc.


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## BlueRidgeMark (Jun 19, 2006)

What brand of maul is that? I like the shape of the head - looks like it will be very effective.


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## ranchjn (Jun 19, 2006)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> What brand of maul is that? I like the shape of the head - looks like it will be very effective.



i dont like the head... looks to narrow and doesnt widen soon enough... i think it could easily get stuck in a hardwood if you are splitting at 90% power... but then again im in love with my maul  to each his own


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## KMB (Jun 20, 2006)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> What brand of maul is that? I like the shape of the head - looks like it will be very effective.



It's a Ludell. From Home Depot.

Kevin


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## farmboy9 (Jun 20, 2006)

*maul and sledge*

HI, KMB. I researched this at the beginning of my wood splitting career and what I read included the observation that the materials used for edge tools (and a maul has an edge) should never be used for beating metal-on-metal as they can splinter. And splinters hurt...I have been stung through coveralls.


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## belgian (Jun 20, 2006)

clearance said:


> I have seen big chips come off mauls when used to hit wedges, I use an 8lb. sledge. Important point here, wear eye protection, over time mushrooming happens, even if something does not mushroom chips can occur, flaws in metal, improper usage etc.



I experienced a chip coming off a wedge and hitting my leg, causing a small bleeding wound. I wear eye protection since then ... 
Take care,
Roland


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## KMB (Jun 20, 2006)

daemon2525 said:


> You may be all right with that particular maul. I like the looks of it.
> 
> The problem with driving wedges with a normal maul, is that the sides of the head of the maul, around the handle hole are not as strong as a sledge. By driving with it, you will misshape or break the sides and the handle will fall out.





farmboy9 said:


> HI, KMB. I researched this at the beginning of my wood splitting career and what I read included the observation that the materials used for edge tools (and a maul has an edge) should never be used for beating metal-on-metal as they can splinter. And splinters hurt...I have been stung through coveralls.



Thanks for the info fellas. Regarding edge tools, the maul I bought has bevelled edges on the back. I'm assuming that would be okay.
Regarding the way the head is attached, the maul head is attached the same way the sledge is attached. So I should be okay there also. BUT since I also have the sledge - I'll use it. I just looked at my sledge and it's 'edges' are more rounded than bevelled. I'm assuming the sledge head is like that cause not all of the strikes/blows will be 'square' on the face of the sledge.

Kevin


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## KMB (Jun 20, 2006)

clearance said:


> I have seen big chips come off mauls when used to hit wedges, I use an 8lb. sledge. Important point here, wear eye protection, over time mushrooming happens, even if something does not mushroom chips can occur, flaws in metal, improper usage etc.





belgian said:


> I experienced a chip coming off a wedge and hitting my leg, causing a small bleeding wound. I wear eye protection since then ...
> Take care,
> Roland.



My safety glasses are always (most always...) on when doing everything where something could get to my eyes. Including using my push mower where small debris is laying that might get spit out, cleaning carbs with spray cleaner, cleaning my saws with the air hose, working under my truck and whatever else. Thanks for the reminders. 

Kevin


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## BlueRidgeMark (Jun 20, 2006)

ranchjn said:


> i dont like the head... looks to narrow and doesnt widen soon enough... i think it could easily get stuck in a hardwood if you are splitting at 90% power... but then again im in love with my maul  to each his own




Whatcha got? Mine widens TOO soon - it's pretty blunt.


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## turnkey4099 (Jun 20, 2006)

I use the sledge for driving wedges. Also use it to beat on the maul when it sticks. 

Safety in using wedges/mauls/sledges. Do not let your equipment mushroom - and they will. As soon as they begin to swell, grind them down back to the bevel shape (as shown in the picture of the maul). It doesn't take long with a 4" disc grinder. Mushroomed heads split off big SHARP shards. I have heard of instances of people with seriouis damage and even being killed by them. Another benefit of keeping them in shape, you don't have all those sharp edges cutting your fingers when you pick em up. 

Harry K


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## jnsn (Jun 20, 2006)

All metal tools need care-you have to keep up with the blossoming edges by knocking them off with a file. I usually do it by hand because it feels like the heat from the grinder might effect the metal- but to each his own.

I hand split about six or seven cords a year and just don't use wedges anymore. I leave stuff that can't be split right were it lays. If the crotch is big enough I will leave enough wood above it to split off the sides. But I will do that at the site so I don't move the thing multiple times before it is ruled an official waste of my time.I guess if I had access to a splitter these parts can be done but why the fight? The only waste in the forest is what you remove.


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## Big Woody (Jun 21, 2006)

Speaking of wedges: I was splitting a big pin oak log 48" diameter which I had cut into sections about 24" long. I had 3 wedges buried in one of the sections and couldn't get it to split the rest of the way. Using my big logrite cant hook I got it stood up on its side and then pushed it back over a couple of times and the impact busted it the rest of the way into two halves. I thought one of the wedges fell out and later went to pick it up after I had split most of it on the log splitter and couldn't find the one wedge. 

I had been burning a lot of it up since the log had been sitting for many years and a good bit of it was not worth saving for fire wood.
Today I was shoveling some of the ashes out of the burning hole and hit what I thought was a rock. However it was the wedge I couldn't find. The fire had been out for several days but the wedge was still too hot to handle.

Mystery Solved.


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## trimmmed (Jun 21, 2006)

turnkey4099 said:


> I use the sledge for driving wedges. Also use it to beat on the maul when it sticks.
> 
> Safety in using wedges/mauls/sledges. Do not let your equipment mushroom - and they will. As soon as they begin to swell, grind them down back to the bevel shape (as shown in the picture of the maul). It doesn't take long with a 4" disc grinder. Mushroomed heads split off big SHARP shards. I have heard of instances of people with seriouis damage and even being killed by them. Another benefit of keeping them in shape, you don't have all those sharp edges cutting your fingers when you pick em up.
> 
> Harry K




Good advice! 



turnkey4099 said:


> * I have heard of instances of people with seriouis damage and even being killed by them.*



Sometime ago, circa 1980, there was a guy doin his firewood thing a couple of houses away from where I was working. Sometime after lunch an ambulance pulled up and took that guy away. One of those pieces of metal had shot him right thru the heart and killed him.


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## 046 (Jun 21, 2006)

general rule of thumb is not to hit a hardened steel surface with another hardened steel surface. bad things will happen!


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## turnkey4099 (Jun 22, 2006)

046 said:


> general rule of thumb is not to hit a hardened steel surface with another hardened steel surface. bad things will happen!



But then the wedges, sledge and mauls are not hardened steel and are designed to be used that way.

Harry K


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## 046 (Jun 23, 2006)

never said they were. wedges are designed to be hit, so unlikely they would be hardened. 

mauls can be hardened or not. Sledges are generally hardened, so swinging hard against a maul buried into a log with a sledge could be a bad thing.



turnkey4099 said:


> But then the wedges, sledge and mauls are not hardened steel and are designed to be used that way.
> 
> Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Jun 23, 2006)

046 said:


> never said they were. wedges are designed to be hit, so unlikely they would be hardened.
> 
> mauls can be hardened or not. Sledges are generally hardened, so swinging hard against a maul buried into a log with a sledge could be a bad thing.



I never have seen a sledge or maul that was hardened - that is the ones meant to be used on farms and in the woods. If they were hardened, they wouldn't be shaped to "hammer" shape.

Harry K


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## Gark (Jun 25, 2006)

Not knowing any better, I always used the hammer end of the maul for sinking
wedges. Always using goggles and re-shaping the mushroomed mauls and wedges. No problems yet with this arrangement.


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## ranchjn (Jun 25, 2006)

jnsn said:


> All metal tools need care-you have to keep up with the blossoming edges by knocking them off with a file. I usually do it by hand because it feels like the heat from the grinder might effect the metal- but to each his own.
> 
> I hand split about six or seven cords a year and just don't use wedges anymore. I leave stuff that can't be split right were it lays. If the crotch is big enough I will leave enough wood above it to split off the sides. But I will do that at the site so I don't move the thing multiple times before it is ruled an official waste of my time.I guess if I had access to a splitter these parts can be done but why the fight? The only waste in the forest is what you remove.



you must be a true woodsman! I completely agree with your point of view and do the same myself. Whenever i come accross a round that has too many knots in it or is too difficult to split, i simply walk away from it! There is nothing shameful than walking away and using your time more effectively splitting easier wood. When i started splitting, i wanted to split everything. I would become tired and frusterated, and yet be stuck on splitting the round that was obviously too difficult for me. When i started walking away, i learned that i could split more wood faster and wouldnt get frusterated. Also, when you are angry you loose your concentration and your technique.


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## turnkey4099 (Jun 26, 2006)

ranchjn said:


> you must be a true woodsman! I completely agree with your point of view and do the same myself. Whenever i come accross a round that has too many knots in it or is too difficult to split, i simply walk away from it! There is nothing shameful than walking away and using your time more effectively splitting easier wood. When i started splitting, i wanted to split everything. I would become tired and frusterated, and yet be stuck on splitting the round that was obviously too difficult for me. When i started walking away, i learned that i could split more wood faster and wouldnt get frusterated. Also, when you are angry you loose your concentration and your technique.



I am too much of a scotchman to let good wood go to waste. I also find that the knots and crotches are the best firewood, They seem to be denser and tighter grained. No, I do not try to split them. By planning the split, i.e., a round with one knot, my first split will be down along the side of the knot then on the opposide of it. If the knotty portion is still too large to use I toss them aside and at a convenient time section them with the saw. Doesn't take long. You also wind up with a bunch of very nice shavings for mulch.

Harry K


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## 046 (Jun 27, 2006)

almost all sledge hammer faces are hardened. otherwise they would not survive for long against concrete. just like almost all std hammer faces are hardened. 

backside of mauls can be hardened or not. 

sledges can be hot forged or machined. the hardening occurs after hammer/sledge is formed. depending upon metal used. hardening can be done by heating to red hot (or what ever alloy specs') , then air cooled, oil dip, or whatever is spec'd by steel mfg. 



turnkey4099 said:


> I never have seen a sledge or maul that was hardened - that is the ones meant to be used on farms and in the woods. If they were hardened, they wouldn't be shaped to "hammer" shape.
> 
> Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Jun 27, 2006)

046 said:


> almost all sledge hammer faces are hardened. otherwise they would not survive for long against concrete. just like almost all std hammer faces are hardened.
> 
> backside of mauls can be hardened or not.
> 
> sledges can be hot forged or machined. the hardening occurs after hammer/sledge is formed. depending upon metal used. hardening can be done by heating to red hot (or what ever alloy specs') , then air cooled, oil dip, or whatever is spec'd by steel mfg.




You seem to be using an odd definition of hardening. If sledges and mauls were hardened per the common understanding, they wouldn't 'mushroom', they'd chip, break, shatter.

Just out of curiousity. You have your wedge made to be hit. Just what _do_ you hit it with if not the sledge/maul??

Harry K


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## ray benson (Jun 27, 2006)

Some of my accumulated splitting tools. The maul has a 8 lb. sledge head welded to the face. As the face was mangled pretty good from years of hitting the face with a sledge to drive it through the tough pieces of wood. Garage sales are a good source for the wedges and sledges. The biggest wedge comes in handy on the stringy wood that you can bury several wedges.


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## jensen 32000 (Jun 27, 2006)

*Dense crotch trunk wood*



turnkey4099 said:


> I am too much of a scotchman to let good wood go to waste. I also find that the knots and crotches are the best firewood, They seem to be denser and tighter grained. No, I do not try to split them. By planning the split, i.e., a round with one knot, my first split will be down along the side of the knot then on the opposide of it. If the knotty portion is still too large to use I toss them aside and at a convenient time section them with the saw. Doesn't take long. You also wind up with a bunch of very nice shavings for mulch.
> 
> Harry K


Harry; I agree, the 084 put an end to those tuff to split pieces, and they still fell like cast iron, even when seasoned. I used the shavings around my hedges, so nothing went to waste. I'll gladly take those gnarly trunk rounds, that the "Harry Homeowners" with their "dull chain" 36 cc saws, pass on.


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## jnsn (Jun 28, 2006)

Really now-who is wasting anything? Do you take every branch and twig home and weave baskets? Do you bring truckoads of the leaves home to mulch your shruberies ? Why not rip out the stump and cut that up? They are dense and tightly grained. In fact I know they will burn for days.

Out of the whole wood gathering process I regard the most valuable commodity to be my time.


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## turnkey4099 (Jun 28, 2006)

jnsn said:


> Really now-who is wasting anything? Do you take every branch and twig home and weave baskets? Do you bring truckoads of the leaves home to mulch your shruberies ? Why not rip out the stump and cut that up? They are dense and tightly grained. In fact I know they will burn for days.
> 
> Out of the whole wood gathering process I regard the most valuable commodity to be my time.



To each his own. How do you equate picking up an already cut off round with digging out a stump? A useable chunk of firewood with a twig?

Harry K


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## jnsn (Jun 28, 2006)

I guess its the words "good wood go to waste"

From the point of BTU's it's all good wood

But from the point of BTU's /_per Hour invested _ you have to make some decisions.Am I going to take the wood I have to pack out, or wood I can drive some wheeled contrivance to.Do I drive an hour to a tree, or pick up what the power companies already have down on my way home. Do I spend 20 minutes per block driving multiple wedges and bars, or read the bark and be onto the fourth block in the same time.Some people would be revving up their multi thousand dollar splitter to do the same block.Everyone makes their decisions.

I'll gladly admit I don't know what I'm doing, just giving my opinion.


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## 046 (Jun 29, 2006)

wedges are made to be hit by a sledge and are not hardened. anything that mushrooms from being hit is not hardened. 

hammers and sledges faces are almost always hardened. mauls can go either way. 

and yes if you hit two hammer faces together. you will get flying chips, very dangerous!



turnkey4099 said:


> You seem to be using an odd definition of hardening. If sledges and mauls were hardened per the common understanding, they wouldn't 'mushroom', they'd chip, break, shatter.
> 
> Just out of curiousity. You have your wedge made to be hit. Just what _do_ you hit it with if not the sledge/maul??
> 
> Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Jun 29, 2006)

046 said:


> wedges are made to be hit by a sledge and are not hardened. anything that mushrooms from being hit is not hardened.
> 
> hammers and sledges faces are almost always hardened. mauls can go either way.
> 
> and yes if you hit two hammer faces together. you will get flying chips, very dangerous!



Odd that every sledge and maul I have ever seen or used (quite a bunch in 60 years) all showed signs of mushrooming, none showed the typical damage of hitting with hardened tools.

That they are heat treated and tempered somewhat is not news. They are not "hardened" in the common understanding of that term.

You made mention of a sledge being "hardened" because it wouldn't last if used to break up concrete. Sorry, I have used my same sledge to break up...hmm, I can recall 3 long sidewalks and a monolithic set of entry steps and had no problems. That is the same sledge that was badly mushroomed when I retired it after learning one needs to keep the mushrooming ground off.

As to hammers. Yes, most of them are hardened (no all) but those are not sledges/mauls.

Harry K


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## 046 (Jun 29, 2006)

there's many mfg of sledges, which tempers surfaces differently. true, sledges are usually not hardened to degree hammers are. 

with so many different mfg, all you can do is generalize. I've never had a sledge mushroom. but all that means is my sledges have not mushroomed. any sledge that mushrooms was probably tempered to reduce hardness.

I collect hammers  here's a pic of my hammer drawer and a new box of hammers just purchased...


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## turnkey4099 (Jun 30, 2006)

NOw that is a batch of hammers! If it were mine, I would have to be sure not to start and argument with the wife anywhere near that drawer  

Harry K


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## jnsn (Jul 1, 2006)

Have you ever heard the saying "as dumb as a box of hammers"? There was an old southern boy I used to work with who used that one.

Looks like you have shears or something underneath


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## ranchjn (Jul 4, 2006)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> Whatcha got? Mine widens TOO soon - it's pretty blunt.



A picture of Max, the Axe  




what a real splitting maul looks like   jk


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## BlueRidgeMark (Jul 4, 2006)

Very similar to what I have. Yours has a better taper, though. Mine balloons out too soon.


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## turnkey4099 (Jul 5, 2006)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> Very similar to what I have. Yours has a better taper, though. Mine balloons out too soon.



I had to buy a new wedge the other day. Lost my favorite one off the tailgate when I forgot about it. The new one has the right taper down to about 3/4" inch from the edge then it steepend for sharpening. Turns it almos unuseable. I tried it out last Friday and it wouldn't even let me start it into the block. It is due for the bench today for a serious regrinding.

Harry K


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## 046 (Jul 12, 2006)

dumb as a box of hammers! 

never heard that one before... yup there's a few pair of old fashion shears underneath. 

purchase load of hammers from a widow who was selling off husbands old tools. 

What a score! there's a load of high grade hammers in that box. 



jnsn said:


> Have you ever heard the saying "as dumb as a box of hammers"? There was an old southern boy I used to work with who used that one.
> 
> Looks like you have shears or something underneath


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## elektrobot (Jul 12, 2006)

*Same Problem*



turnkey4099 said:


> I had to buy a new wedge the other day. Lost my favorite one off the tailgate when I forgot about it. The new one has the right taper down to about 3/4" inch from the edge then it steepend for sharpening. Turns it almos unuseable. I tried it out last Friday and it wouldn't even let me start it into the block. It is due for the bench today for a serious regrinding.
> 
> Harry K



I just purchased 2 wedges from Menards that have the exact same problem. They are completely worthless. No matter how hard I tried to drive them in with a 20 pound sledge, they would just bounce right out. Guess there is a science to even the simplest tools. I wonder if the company that manufactures these has ever even tried to split wood with them.

View attachment 36052


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## chowdozer (Jul 13, 2006)

elektrobot said:


> I just purchased 2 wedges from Menards that have the exact same problem. They are completely worthless. No matter how hard I tried to drive them in with a 20 pound sledge, they would just bounce right out. Guess there is a science to even the simplest tools. I wonder if the company that manufactures these has ever even tried to split wood with them.
> 
> View attachment 36052



I have a wedge just like that but less than 3/4 the length from grinding the mushroom off. It's been my favorite wedge the last couple years but it's getting near the end of it's life. I can't remember where I bought it.

All this discussion about driving wedges with a maul or a sledge. I've been driving wedges with an 8# maul for the past 30 years, since I was 14 years old. I've had the same maul for the past 12 years. Never had a problem and it shows no sign of mushrooming. I figure they put the hammer face on there to hit a wedge with. If they hadn't intended you to hit with it, they would have made a double bit maul. 

my .02


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## turnkey4099 (Jul 13, 2006)

elektrobot said:


> I just purchased 2 wedges from Menards that have the exact same problem. They are completely worthless. No matter how hard I tried to drive them in with a 20 pound sledge, they would just bounce right out. Guess there is a science to even the simplest tools. I wonder if the company that manufactures these has ever even tried to split wood with them.
> 
> View attachment 36052



Even after my work of grinding the 'humps' down somewhat it was a poor tool at best. At least it solved the problem itself. The second time I used it out in the wood lot, I had it sorta started then mistruck and the wedge went walk-about in 6ft tall grass. I didn't spend a lot of time looking for it. Found wedges designed right at Wall Mart the other day at 1/2 the price I paid for the POS.

Harry K


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## rb_in_va (Feb 20, 2007)

turnkey4099 said:


> But then the wedges, sledge and mauls are not hardened steel and are designed to be used that way.
> 
> Harry K



The tip of a maul or wedge is hardened, like any cutting tool. As you get farther from the tip the hardness decreases. Didn't you guys take metal shop class? I did and one of our projects was a chisel. Same principle. The tip is hardened for cutting and the back is softer for striking.


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## Rick Alger (Feb 20, 2007)

I think wedges are obsolete technology. Back before chainsaws when you had to split 4 foot bolts lengthwise to lift them on the buzz saw table, wedges had a place. But with chainsaws, you can easily cut through the stubbornest round without endangering your eyes or your shins.


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## chowdozer (Feb 20, 2007)

Rick Alger said:


> I think wedges are obsolete technology. Back before chainsaws when you had to split 4 foot bolts lengthwise to lift them on the buzz saw table, wedges had a place. But with chainsaws, you can easily cut through the stubbornest round without endangering your eyes or your shins.



Might as well buy a load of Presto Logs then.:deadhorse:


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## EastwoodGang4 (Feb 20, 2007)

*Ludell 8lb maul*

KMB I have the exact same maul you have... in general I like it. it splits nice but does stick every now and then. I try to keep the splitting face of the maul shiny even sanding the rust off if it's been in the rain. it seems to slide thru the wood a little eaisier. However i don't recommend using that perticular maul as a sledge hammer...... or beating the maul head thru with a hammer. Mine is cracked pretty bad and would expect it to shatter or break. i'll try to get a pic on for you and others to see. also i have a wedge the mushroom wasn't ground properly and a large chunk is missing. I had to learn my lesson the hard way.


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## EastwoodGang4 (Feb 20, 2007)

*maul pics*

sorry if they're hard to see...still learning about pics


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## BIG JAKE (Feb 20, 2007)

Rick Alger said:


> I think wedges are obsolete technology. Back before chainsaws when you had to split 4 foot bolts lengthwise to lift them on the buzz saw table, wedges had a place. But with chainsaws, you can easily cut through the stubbornest round without endangering your eyes or your shins.



I'm with Rick-I'll slice the nasty ones or the ones I can't lift up onto a truck bed or splitter. I like splitting with a maul but these days my wedges stay mostly on the shelf. In fact, the splitter sits most of the time too. Nothing like a good maul. They say cutting firewood warms you twice. Maybe 3 or 4!


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## daemon2525 (Feb 20, 2007)

*Wow that was wierd.*

I have strong opinions about this , so I thought that I would reply. So I started reading the thread, and the fourth post was mine!!!

I would not recommend using a maul to split with. And I also recommend making sure that you grind your sledge and wedges every once in a while to avoid the little chips flying off.

AND REMEMBER THERE IS NO MORE IMPORTANT SAFETY RULE THAN TO USE THESE...... SAFETY GLASSES. _thanks Norm_


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## turnkey4099 (Feb 21, 2007)

EastwoodGang4 said:


> KMB I have the exact same maul you have... in general I like it. it splits nice but does stick every now and then. I try to keep the splitting face of the maul shiny even sanding the rust off if it's been in the rain. it seems to slide thru the wood a little eaisier. However i don't recommend using that perticular maul as a sledge hammer...... or beating the maul head thru with a hammer. Mine is cracked pretty bad and would expect it to shatter or break. i'll try to get a pic on for you and others to see. also i have a wedge the mushroom wasn't ground properly and a large chunk is missing. I had to learn my lesson the hard way.



Someone else mentioned that a maul has less material around the 'eye' than a sledge - true. I do beat on mine with the sledge when it sticks and haven't had a problem. Cracked heads - I finally retired my old sledge as it had cracks running down from the face. Kinda hated to do it as it was my old man's and his dad's before him. 

I also started reading and ran into one of my posts. I was stacking up some comments to add to the discussion but most of them have already been handled.

I have had the 'grind the mushrooms' job on the back burner for a month. Just waiting for a nice day so I can do it out in the open. I came very close to burning down a shop once by grinding. Wasn't until I heard the crackling that I realized what was happening. Lot of real fast stomping. Now I pay very close attention to where the stream of sparks are going.

Wedges are built for a purpose and should be used. I can't feature whaling away with a sledge trying to make the first bust in a 30" round. Tools have their purpose and the best tool to use is the one most appropriate for the job at hand. Chainsaw to avoid using a wedge? No way! I do chainsaw when working knots and crotches though.

Harry K


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## Rick Alger (Feb 21, 2007)

Suggestion:

Score the top of a knotty 30" round down about six inches with a chainsaw.Then take a maul to it. 

Then get a similar round and open it up with a wedge.

Keep track of your time and effort. 

I think you'll find it easier and faster with the saw.


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## rb_in_va (Feb 21, 2007)

daemon2525 said:


> I would not recommend using a maul to split with.



I'm going to have to have to go ahead and disagree with you on this one. Is this what you really meant to say? I love splitting with the maul!


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## daemon2525 (Feb 21, 2007)

OOOOPS! that is not what I meant. I was referring to hitting a wedge with a maul.


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## rb_in_va (Feb 21, 2007)

daemon2525 said:


> OOOOPS! that is not what I meant. I was referring to hitting a wedge with a maul.



I thought maybe that was the case.


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## turnkey4099 (Feb 21, 2007)

Rick Alger said:


> Suggestion:
> 
> Score the top of a knotty 30" round down about six inches with a chainsaw.Then take a maul to it.
> 
> ...



By the time I fire up the saw and have a 6" kerf, I will have the round split using two wedges. I also won't be putting excess wear on my saw doing stuff when there are tools designed to do the job better. Of course that is on stuff that _will_ split. Crotches and knots are different deal.

I don't see how you get "faster" out of your method. After you have your 6" kerf you still have to pick up the wedge(s) and sledge and go to it. Where have you saved any time?

Harry K

Ooops. Out moving wood into the porch and recalled you said you used a maul, not wedge/sledg. My comments still stand though.

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Feb 22, 2007)

Interesting. Looks good for slabbing from outside in. Doubt if it would work very well halving big blocks.

Harry K


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## charlesfarm (Feb 23, 2007)

> Eye Protection
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have seen big chips come off mauls when used to hit wedges, I use an 8lb. sledge. Important point here, wear eye protection, over time mushrooming happens, even if something does not mushroom chips can occur, flaws in metal, improper usage etc.



Be sure to wear eye protection especially any time you are hitting metal with metal!! My late grandfather was a tractor mechanic. One time he was driving a chisel with a hammer. A splinter of steel flew off the chisel and went right into his eye. He had to go to the emergency room where they proceeded to use an electromagnet to somehow draw the splinter out the back of his eyeball. He later said it was the most painful thing he had ever experienced (and he wasn't a stranger to pain -- he broke almost every bone in his body at one time or another -- including his ribs and his back).

God bless,
Chris


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## Streyken (Feb 23, 2007)

If anyone does try Finland's splitting device on various types of wood, I'd be interested in the results. In theory it looks good. I worked with a guy who split wood 3 months straight a year (had a firewood lot); he used an Arvika axe, said it was much faster than a maul if you got the hang of it - I never did. Just as the axe bit in, he would twist his wrists forcing the axe to the outside of the block, popping a piece off. He could do this on anything, I saw him take apart knotted 90cm Douglas-fir in no time - the rest of us would stop and watch him, it was like a magic act.


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## burnt wood (Feb 25, 2007)

*use your ppe*

concerning the mushrooming wedge issue. definitely use your ppe, especially
chaps if you have them. i have a piece of wedge in my thigh, clear to the bone. been there for 15-20 yrs. it hit me about 5 inches below the family
jewels. and my inner thigh has been numb to the knee ever since. must have cut some nerves. when i went to the emergency room they thought i had a
gun shot wound. i had to talk my way out of being interviewed by the cops. so please wear you safety gear, and keep your kids away. i was lucky, my kids, little at the time, were standing right beside me.

ppe= personal protective equipment


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