# Firewood Cure time



## Bills Oak (May 26, 2004)

Question for all--How much time do you allow for drying time of split woods for firewood?In pieces that average 16 inches long about 3-4 inch diameter--I generally allow 9 Months covered at the top, off the ground, with plenty of air circulation area--especially for oak. I have been told by some that 6 months is long enough & by some that almost a year is best!


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## a_lopa (May 26, 2004)

all wood burns the same amount of time per kilogram


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## Bills Oak (May 26, 2004)

Aussie, here in Florida we have very high humidity most of the year that effects drying time drastically---Do you have the same problem down under?


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## Stumper (May 26, 2004)

Bill, You probably have it right for soggy Florida. In my low humidity area wood can be burnable after 3 weeks stacked in the summer sun where the dry wind can get to it. Bone dry in 3 months.


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## a_lopa (May 26, 2004)

not really bill,where i live its snowing at 600 meters although most of aust inland you would dry timber in no time,only right up the top would you have any trouble


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## The Best GM (May 26, 2004)

STUMPER is SOOO right, I love to see some realism, thats exactly right, the old 1-2 years is WAY to long, summer heat dries it in know time.


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## Bills Oak (May 26, 2004)

*Firewood*

Thanks, that's what I thought, I've been stacking in oppossing layers covered up for 3-6 months & that seems to be enough for even the wettest of woods, any longer & I have had some troubles with dry rot....


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## The Best GM (May 26, 2004)

Right on Bill, you loose sometimes to because the wood burns to fast, it (I guess) is a standard to have 20% moisture give or take. Ive burned wood the same day that i cut it wet as hell and it rocked, ash is awsome for doing that as well as sugar.


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## rmihalek (May 26, 2004)

Hey Bill,

You split the wood right? Even the 4 to 6 inch rounds I'll split in half. I stack it up on wood pallets and cover with a tarp. I've burned red oak 2 to 3 months after felling it. The only problem with semi-cured wood is the overnight burn in a wood stove with the air intake vents closed down: if there's too much moisture, it won't burn slow, the fire just goes out. In an open fireplace, pretty much anything will burn with a good bed a coals under it.


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## Bills Oak (May 26, 2004)

Bob, I agree, with hot enough coals the wood will steam & pop some but it all burns up if you can get air to it..


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## NeTree (May 26, 2004)

> _Originally posted by The Best GM _
> *STUMPER is SOOO right, I love to see some realism, thats exactly right, the old 1-2 years is WAY to long, summer heat dries it in know time. *



I agree.

Split and stacked properly, 2 months in plenty around here.

1 to 2 years? If you're leaving the whole log to season, maybe- otherwise, the ole 1 to 2 is a waste of drying time.


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## Tree Machine (May 26, 2004)

I encourage my firewood takers to use a black tarp. Bungee it over the pile enough to keep it capped and covered, but not so much that you cut circulation. Stacked on a pallet, let er cook. sorry no image


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## rb_in_va (May 26, 2004)

*Holz Hausen*

Ever here of this? Supposedly you can cure firewood in three months. Check out the link.

http://www.thechimneysweep.ca/6seasoningwood.html


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## Bills Oak (May 26, 2004)

Yes heard of this last year but never tried it, might be worth a try!--since it freezes in Germany I'm guessing that a lot of the bugs are either dead or inactive past early October or so. My fear is that being not covered other than with the top layer of wood(bark side up) will still allow a lot of water to get between the layers of wood & between the carpenter ants & termites it would get infested rather quickly.


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## Dadatwins (May 26, 2004)

Answer I think depends on the area you are in. In N.Y. we had property that was on salt water canal and salt air dried split firewood in 2 -3 months, along with rusting every piece of metal around. In Richmond va area is damp so it takes longer. Never was a big fan of covering wood that is stored either. Always thought even those breathable cover allow some moisture to stay in. Prefer open pile except if delivery scheduled right before rain or snow then we covered up what we needed.


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## Bills Oak (May 26, 2004)

I agree, I have constructed some firewood racks built out of STACK IT BRACKETS & pressure treated 2X4's. I have the racks covered with aluminum porch roof material that I get for free from a local guy who installs carports, sheds, etc. These roof panels are 10 foot long & have a small connector piece that slides the length of a lip on the top of each roof panel & locks them together. I use 1 inch roofing nails to hold them down to the two by fours. These Racks are 5 years old now & holding up well. I currently have 30 of them in groups of 5 each with wood curing in them, I'll try to get pics posted if anybody wants to see the finished product..Each rack holds about 1.5 cords of split wood.


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## Newfie (May 26, 2004)

top of the stack covered,sides open to allow air to circulate through the stack. The only time I completely enclose a stack is when the snow flies, to keep the snow and ice out of my racks.


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## Bills Oak (May 26, 2004)

Pics???


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## glens (May 26, 2004)

It totally depends on both the climate and the type of wood.&nbsp; There's no way to say what works best in a general way.&nbsp; Whatever it takes to get the wood to about 20% moisture content is what's best.&nbsp; White Ash stands green at about that figure so it'll burn the same day it's cut.&nbsp; Take something like Apple or just about any Hickory, and you're going to need a full year to get the most out of it here in the middle of Indiana.&nbsp; Sure, it'll burn sooner, but it's wasteful to do it that way.

I've only been burning wood for heat for a couple of decades so I leave room to learn more about it, but in my experience, wood does not even <i>start</i> to season until it's been split and stacked.&nbsp; Covered is okay so long as full air circulation is available; uncovered is fine too.

Don't forget to fetch <a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?postid=165043">this PDF document</a> attached to a post of mine in the "Cord of wood" thread here.&nbsp; It has data about moisture content and weight of a bunch of different midwest fuelwoods.

Glen


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## rb_in_va (May 26, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Bills Oak _
> *Pics??? *



Post them if you've got them. Also, let us know where we can score some of these free roof panels.


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## NeTree (May 26, 2004)

> _Originally posted by rb_in_va _
> *Post them if you've got them. Also, let us know where we can score some of these free roof panels. *




Any construction site that's using them...



at about two in the morning.


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## The Best GM (May 26, 2004)

GLENS WHY ARTE YOU STATING THE OBVIOUS?


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## Ax-man (May 26, 2004)

Any one ever hear this one ?? Wood dries better in a teepee type pile, than in stacked neat rows. Air circulates better through the whole pile and gets to the middle better if it is piled this way. 

I'm not talking about face cord or one standard cord, I'm talking like 3 to 5 standard cords in a big heap.

I don't know if their is a difference between one way or another, just curious if any one has ever heard this.

As far as aging , cut and split in summer 2 to 3 months is plenty, some times that darn wood can get too dry and burns up to fast, doesn't really matter what kind of wood it is either.

I've got a question for some of you pyro's ?? If you were to cut and split some summer wood logs in dry winter conditions, cold but with no snow or ice and it stays that way for awhile, will the low moisture conditions during winter suck moisture out of wood enough to burn it?? I've cut wood during these times and you can see the day to day changes in the wood opening up on the ends and changing color.

Larry


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## glens (May 26, 2004)

> _Originally posted by The Best GM _
> *GLENS WHY ARTE YOU STATING THE OBVIOUS? *


Because reading through this thread it was obviously necessary.

Where the hell did you learn English ("know" and "no" have different meaning as well do "too", "to", and "two"; I didn't notice you using them today, but I'm sure I must state the obvious to you that "your" and "you're" mean different things too), and what the hell is "sugar"?&nbsp; If it's sugar <i>maple</i>, there's no way, alive or dead, that you can cut it and get any decent heat out of it the same day, week, or even (except maybe in the Sahara) month.

Glen


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## glens (May 26, 2004)

> Any one ever hear this one ?? Wood dries better in a teepee type pile, than in stacked neat rows. Air circulates better through the whole pile and gets to the middle better if it is piled this way.
> 
> I'm not talking about face cord or one standard cord, I'm talking like 3 to 5 standard cords in a big heap.


I've never heard it and it's certainly not true.&nbsp; I know because sometimes I get lazy and leave it piled like that.&nbsp; The outer layer can indeed dry quite quickly, but the inner material stays wet. 


> As far as aging , cut and split in summer 2 to 3 months is plenty, some times that darn wood can get too dry and burns up to fast, doesn't really matter what kind of wood it is either.


I've <i>never</i> encountered "too dry" firewood.&nbsp; A fireplace might be hard to control when the wood is finally dry enough but a stove works best that way.



> If you were to cut and split some summer wood logs in dry winter conditions, cold but with no snow or ice and it stays that way for awhile, will the low moisture conditions during winter suck moisture out of wood enough to burn it??


The dryer winter air can draw moisture out quite well so long as it's above frost temperature.

Glen


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## NeTree (May 26, 2004)

glens, you're dead wrong.





GM's daddy told me so.


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## The Best GM (May 26, 2004)

Some how I think you would state the obvious any waz, can't we have a conversation with out anal retention, did i spell that right


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## glens (May 26, 2004)

Spelling is immaterial in a conversation (oral communication).&nbsp; Here it's important.

Glen


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## The Best GM (May 26, 2004)

Glens Glens Glens Glens, why do you take every thing out of context? To dry, just because i did not elaborate on too dry, to dry as fars as cheap assesare concerned, length of fire is as important as ignition' id rather have wood that burned all night than wood thats gonna ignite easily 

therefore in between would be my favorite the best of both worlds, can i get a HELL YA !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111


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## spacemule (May 26, 2004)

I like to get my wood cut in the fall, and it seems to burn fine during winter (a couple of months drying time). Of course, a lot of times I screw around and don't get all my wood cut 'til there's snow on the ground. In these cases, I mix green and seasoned, and seem to get away all right with it. Hickory puts out the most heat and burns the best when green around here (Arkansas). While green burns and I have done it, I have to keep the ????ed damper open, and it leaves a huge bed of coals that will choke the air out if you don't keep them cleaned out. I sure like having dry wood that you can damper all the way, control the heat output, and not worry about extinquishing the fire. If the stove is working properly, dry burns as long as green, as Glens said.


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## The Best GM (May 26, 2004)

Ya and if the stove is right, my bad, i'm not speaking from a spoilled f$#@ point of view.


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## spacemule (May 26, 2004)

> _Originally posted by The Best GM _
> *Ya and if the stove is right, my bad, i'm not speaking from a spoilled f$#@ point of view. *



I guess this is a point we differ in. I don't consider keeping equipment in optimal working condition to be "spoiled." I do, however, consider using poor equipment that is not maintained as a sign of poverty, ignorance, laziness, or a combination. Take your pick.

While I'm somewhat of a bull????ter myself, though, occasionally I prefer to listen to a professional. Carry on, sir.


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## Crofter (May 26, 2004)

It sure depends a lot on what type of stove you have. Wood that is too dry? It doesn't happen here on the north shore of Lake Huron. A new epa approved device is misery to try to keep a fire going with wood that is at all green. In an older device like a basic front draught box stove, quite green wood does well and an armful of wood does last longer than dry, but as Glen points out will give off a heck of a lot less heat in the process. 
I prefer to let the wind and sun evaporate the water instead of burning wood to accomplish the same, so when I can, it is two summers and one winter from stump to stove. Maple, Red Oak and Yellow Birch.

Frank


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## Kneejerk Bombas (May 26, 2004)

Doesn't firewood cure faster if you leave it out in the weather? Those cycles of wet and dry really work on opening up those pores.


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## Crofter (May 26, 2004)

Mike: Birch or poplar will not dry here unless under cover but exposed to wind. Instead you will start to grow mushrooms on it. Oak will dry well enough uncovered (but not as well) 

Frank


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## glens (May 26, 2004)

I don't have anything scientific to back it up, but I believe that there's a difference between wood that's at X moisture content because it's green and wood that's been "cured" and then rained/snowed upon.&nbsp; In other words, it can sizzle when you put it in the stove but a "green" sizzle is more detrimental than a seasoned-but-wet sizzle.

Frank, that actually sounds good:&nbsp; Hot mushroom soup on a cold day.&nbsp; Just pick 'em off and drop into the pan of water on the stove.

That reminds me.&nbsp; Next winter, peel an orange and leave the peel by the stove to give off some aroma and to get <i>good</i> and dry.&nbsp; Then, just for kicks, toss it in on some coals and watch the action.&nbsp; It's like a pine cone in that there's seemingly the same amount of energy as a whole little tree.

Glen


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## Crofter (May 26, 2004)

*Moisture*

Glen I think I remember something about the difference between intra and inter-cellular moisture. The one is much harder to draw off. About needing to split to start seasoning. Oak will dry well from the ends (round) but some others seem to take forever if you dont split them.

Frank


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## Stumper (May 26, 2004)

Glens, You are quite correct about the difference in rewetting dried wood compared to drying green wood. Rehydration requires significant time in a humid environment. Raining on a dry piece of wood will have little effect beyond the surface cells. My father is a bowyer. Moisture content is a critical factor in bowmaking so he has dryers and humidity boxes in order to get his material in the target range of 6% -12% moisture (actual he is working between 6 and 9 percent at the finishing stage.) A stave less than 1/2 inch thick will require 2 or 3 days at 100% humidity and 100 degrees F. to come back up from 5% to 9%. Running water over the wood has virtually no effect.


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## Nickrosis (May 26, 2004)

This conversation about drying one's wood could sound really bizarre taken outside of context....and 16-18"??? Wow....

It seems you want the wood to dry out a minimum of ____ (insert local time period required) and not worry about going over in time. If you wait a long, long time (years and years), you'll end up with rotten wood, to be sure, but you can burn that too with a strong fire.


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## Bills Oak (May 27, 2004)

Nick, not sure where the 1-2 year drying time came in???--I've been drying most of it covered with plenty of ventilation for 6-9 months. That seems to be about the best average time, granted some of the pieces will be at the 20% moisture content earlier but with the average humidity here year round at above 50% it takes longer than say in PA or NY...


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## Newfie (May 27, 2004)

*"This conversation about drying one's wood could sound really bizarre taken outside of context....and 16-18"??? Wow...."* 

Well it certainly sounds bizarre now. Give your girlfriend a call or take your "envy" issues over to the gay marriage thread.


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## Bills Oak (May 27, 2004)

Too much time in the frozen north!--I can relate to him--I was actually Born & Raised on East Lake Road in Canandaigua New York!--I remember going for days without seeing the sun in the Winter!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Nickrosis (May 27, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Bills Oak _
> *Nick, not sure where the 1-2 year drying time came in*


What 1-2 years? I said:



> If you wait a long, long time (years and years), you'll end up with rotten wood...


To me, meaning more than one or two years. I was purposefully being vague and was exhausted.


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