# Logosol m8/big mill vs trad. ASM



## NateleeWi (Dec 29, 2015)

So I wanted to get a woodmizer but fear I'll be over extending myself so have been looking to make boards for my own uses rather than high production Why would I pay for a logosol vs the cheaper granburg. Am I missing something? Never looked at mills like this too much but wondering why someone would go with one over the other. What's the minimum power head I would need? Bar lengths? Special mods for saw? I kinda just need a basic rundown. That would help immensely as like I said. I know nothing about truly portable mills. 

Thanks


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## kimosawboy (Dec 29, 2015)

There is a little button up in the right hand corner that is labeled 'search', give it a try and you could probably answer most of your questions. All this has been gone over numerous times. 
You should also figure out what size timber you would be going after the most, so you can get something that fits your specific needs.


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## NateleeWi (Dec 29, 2015)

Well being sarcastic isn't that helpful but I have multiple tabs open and reading on it. But it is just easier to ask. as for size nothing considered big on here. Wis kid here so all was logged in late 1800s. Would say largest would be 36 in 


kimosawboy said:


> There is a little button up in the right hand corner that is labeled 'search', give it a try and you could probably answer most of your questions. All this has been gone over numerous times.
> You should also figure out what size timber you would be going after the most, so you can get something that fits your specific needs.


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## MontanaTed (Dec 29, 2015)

Nate-from what i have gathered and read on here is that most are going to tell you to mill with a 90cc series saw, many like the 66 series in Stihl or the 394/395 of Husqvarna. Hardwoods are certainly more difficult on the equipment so the extra cc is necessary. That being said you can get by with smaller saws too. I initially went for a ported Dolmar 7910 and after much mental debate sold it in lieu of a MS660 before ever even milling with it. Why? because I know I'll want the power.

As far as the mills I have ran this debate in my brain many times. Being a a guy who likes tools and generally opts for the more expensive versions. I decided paying for Logosol would not benefit me any more than creating and building a more portable system, which I am in the process of. Logosol M8 is a pretty elaborate system (IMO) if you have the room and $ for it great, I personally would not want to take that to the timber each time I want to mill, which is most likely how it is going to be done. YOu kind of have to think how your milling is going to be done.

Not sure if that makes sense at all. Search away on it, you will find a ton of opinions and just like butt holes - everybody has one. Take a look trough Shawn Curry's stuff on here, he is knocking out some great stuff with an Alaskan mill and bandsaw set up in his garage, again my opinion, he has a great way of doing things and is very similar to what I have been thinking of using the mill and then a combination of shop tools.


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## big mog (Dec 29, 2015)

Nate, I'll offer a slightly biased perspective here, If your starting out, with no kit at all, stihl ms660 or 661, and the logosol big mill basic system, in my opinion this is much better than the alaskan, you still have to provide your own straight edge for this but the way the saw fits on is better, the adjustment is easier, and there is no need to see-saw the saw through the cut, the system is also expandable using logosol parts, right up to the M8, all the rails and saw mounts are interchangable. the biggest advantage I have found with the M8 is working height, your not down on your knees crawling on the ground , and just so you dont think I'm totally biased towards chainsaw milling, I also ron a woodlands band mill as well, and an ancient foresian rack mill, so no prefrences, each one has its good and bad points


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## Jimbo209 (Dec 30, 2015)

I have done each of these with a alaskan type mill
jack the log up put it on another piece let gravity work even a few planks to get a 10-20 slant
set progressive rakers to self feed 
try both stock 30/35deg and a ripping 10deg chain either seperate chains or before its changed to 10
some tension on end of mill so you dont have to reach over across the whole lot not toomuch that you loose touch 
allways use rails smoother. I will add the hdpe that bob is now using soon
aux oiler is inline with cutting edge. For me at any length
might end up with picco chain at some point
tacho tells me chain is getting blunt


my specs
ms660
tsumura solid 36"
carlton 3/8 .063
tacho to watch rev band and keep it in the sweet spot.


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## NateleeWi (Dec 30, 2015)

Thanks everyone. I'm going to need to get something going because of a projects coming up in spring. ( addition to house and stables added for boarding horses) so need to get milling asap. Lol. I'm excited to get going and the nice thing is I have access to high end moulders and a top of line grizzly resaw at work ( I'm a radial wood profile machinist for high end windows) so thanks again. And FYI if any of you have seen newer Anderson renewal series windows I made a majority of the trim for it. or have seen Parrett Windows ( custom historical windows ) I made them too. Thanks again. Not trying to seem like I'm gloating about what I do just think it's cool to see my work around the U.S.


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## BobL (Dec 31, 2015)

big mog said:


> . . . . . the biggest advantage I have found with the M8 is working height, your not down on your knees crawling on the ground ,



There's rarely an excuse to be on hands and knees with a CSM and it pains me every time I see or hear about it. The same kit that lift the log onto a logosol platform can be used for a csm. A simple kangaroo jack means even largish logs can be lifter up off the ground. As Jimbo says, put the log on a slope and you do even less work.


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## Greenland South (Dec 31, 2015)

The M8 is not that portable, despite the video of what appears to be a rather large Nordic man easily moving the mill from car top to his milling location. I have had my M8 for a few years and use it frequently. It is semi permantly mounted to a 6'x18' deck. 
The mill costs about $1800 new. The 3120XP with 24" bar I bought new for $1200. Muffler mod was $100. The roll of skip tooth chain was around $500. Chain spinner and breaker about $200. Chain grinder around $300. So I'm into it a little over 4K.
I probably would have been better off bucking up another couple grand and getting a band mill. Not speaking from experience, I think you can get better production from a band mill and the waste from the kerf should be about 2/3 less. But I do love the roar of that 3120 and the smell of a 2 stroke. And as a side benefit it keeps the grizzly bears away.


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## babybart (Jan 2, 2016)

big mog said:


> and there is no need to see-saw the saw through the cut, the system is also expandable





No reason to see-saw in the cut at all.


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## NateleeWi (Jan 3, 2016)

Ok thanks for replying. If I went with a granberg what's the difference in mkIII vs the c2. ? I can't find an answer on that. And also. 395 or 661. ? Still want to use the saw for daily use. So can't go any bigger. Figured one of those with a some different bars lengths and I'll be good. I'm husky fan but truthfully never ran a stihl and my husky are starting to get me worked up with the issues. Or would a 2188 be enough power for let's say a 36" or 48" ?


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## Mad Professor (Jan 3, 2016)

I've had a logosol M5 for 17 years now. It's pretty portable if you have a helper. Mine stays put and leveled/tuned unless I need to move it or can't get the logs out whole. I bring the logs to the mill with my tractor. IMHO it's a big step up from an alaskan type mill. If you need to mill really big stuff you can mill inverted. I made a ramp with lumber I milled and can load as big logs as the mill will handle by myself with a cant/peavy.

By no means fast or high production but makes fine lumber with smooth square surfaces. Main gripe is the cost of stihl PMX chains.

I got a 066 with the mill and have used it mostly on the mill but it comes in handy when I need to fell/buck bigger stuff than my 038s like to bite into. Which here in the east is seldom


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## Sawyer Rob (Jan 7, 2016)

Do yourself a HUGE favor and buy yourself a used band mill! It will cost you less in the long run and will have a good resale if you ever want to sell it.

SR


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## mad murdock (Jan 18, 2016)

Nothing beats the portability of a bolt on the saw Granberg, Alsakan Mk III or a Logosol Timberjigg. I have used both extensively, and I like both. The Logosol system is mor efficient, but costs a little bit more. If you want to have even more precision, the Big Mill system added to the Timberjigg is the way I would go vs the Granberg. I was lucky and came across a Bumblebee CSM, and I really like it a lot. More so than the M7 or M8 Logosol. Though those are great mills. A band mill can be gotten for cheaper than normal, especially if you look around on sawmill exchange, CL or what have you. With a CSM you need at least 70cc. 90 is better. I get very good results and decent BD ft averages per hour of milling with my Bumblebee and my 372 XPW sporting Stihl 63PMX "picco" milling chain. Waste with this chain is 1/3 less than with 3/8' chain (1/4" kerf). and only twice what the average band mill kerf (1/8"). I can average about 30-50 bd ft/hr working by myself, in Douglas fir, on my Bumblebee sawmill. If you do go with a Granberg Alaskan, you can greatly speed up production by having a 70-90cc saw for that, and use a 50-60 cc saw for edging with the Granberg mini mill attachment. Saves much time and speeds production up almost by double, as it reduces handling the log, and gets you to the cant much quicker than just using the MkIII alone.


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## Zack_M (Jan 27, 2016)

I would like to disagree slightly on the chain size. I run 404 when milling, yes it has a larger kerf than 3/8 but it has better chip clearing than 3/8, stays sharper longer and unless I'm cutting really heavy pieces (like the 12" thick 24" wide chunk of Pecan I milled this weekend) I typically don't bother putting wedges in the cut. If you're planning on milling something like a 36" hardwood you really want both ends of the bar supported or its going to wander in the cut. 
I'm of the opinion that if you're going to be cutting larger size logs, particularly hardwoods like oak or hickory, get yourself a 100+ CC saw. 
I've found that my 880 cuts the same speed in a 24" walnut and a 30" hickory. Just enough pressure to keep the mill steady and let the chain self-feed through the cut.


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## rarefish383 (Jan 29, 2016)

Photobucket is down right now or I'd post pics. I made two "Racks" by screwing 2X4's together like a log cabin, maybe 30 in square. I have a dump trailer, but, for setting on my racks, I tie a rope around a tree and pull the log back 3 or 4 feet. The first rack is the same height as the trailer deck, I slide it under the log. Pull the trailer up till the logs is barely on the edge of the trailer. Slide the second rack, several 2X4's shorter, under the other end, then pull the trailer out. Log is off the ground and on a decent slope, Joe.


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## nk14zp (Jan 29, 2016)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Do yourself a HUGE favor and buy yourself a used band mill! It will cost you less in the long run and will have a good resale if you ever want to sell it.
> 
> SR


Get a circle mill.


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