# How to cut this tree oposite from the lean



## petersenj20 (Mar 17, 2008)

I have these two maple trees on the side of my house. They have blocked out the sun in the past years and I have not been able to grow grass. I killed it the first year here when I didn't rake in the fall. (my bad) 

I didn't want to cut either down, but the loss of vegetation and the resulting erosion is causing the tree to lean toward the house and main power line. It looks like a good 15 degree lean. I am attaching pictures from a year ago and today. They don't match up perfect but you see what I am dealing with.


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## petersenj20 (Mar 17, 2008)

*Today's pictures*

This is the lean today.


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## masterarbor (Mar 17, 2008)

i agree with treeco. but there are ways to bring it over. use a mechanical advantage of some sort. if you aren't too sure what i mean by that let me know and include what you have in the way of ropes and pullies or as a last resort sigh... a come along. but don't just take the ball and run with it if you're not real sure how to go about it. you will need at least an extra guy who knows how to run the system you design and good cuts. keep us posted. 

side note: are you sure it's not just phototropic growth (away from another tree and toward the sun)? in which case the root structure would likely be just fine. although the roots are probably fine either way. are you sure it's leaning more this year than last?

keep us in the loop!
kevin


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## Brush Hog (Mar 17, 2008)

pakisandra it loves the shade and you don't have to mow it. Spreads like a wildfire though. I agree with above posts. Grass is overrated even though I do make a living cutting a bit.


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## petersenj20 (Mar 17, 2008)

TreeCo said:


> It always makes me sad when people talk about removing trees because the grass will not grow. Lawns suck! Trees rock!


I agree whole heartedly. I could care less about the grass. The rest of the yard looks like spit. I'm worried about the tree falling toward the garage.

I'm going to take a picture from the same angle and post. I thought I was at the same place but after I downloaded I saw otherwise. I don't have any equipment other than a couple of chainsaws. And a few aircraft cargo straps, but I don't see them working as well as a come-a-long.


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## Stryker777 (Mar 17, 2008)

A couple pulleys and sufficient rope will be a lot cheaper than a garage, house, or hospital bill. If you decide to do it yourself, dont skimp on equipment


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## petersenj20 (Mar 17, 2008)

Unfortunately the angle of the old pictures don't really show the lean very well. Here is the same angle.

Leanto 3 shows a pretty significant lean that worries me.


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## masterarbor (Mar 17, 2008)

i just don't see the hazard. is the soil up rooting? also, ARE THERE ANY TREES THAT ARE NEARBY THAT THEY MIGHT BE GROWING AWAY FROM? this is usually the case and if so, poses no threat whatsoever. what you are looking for is this:  loose and up heaving soil opposite the lean or significant root and flare rot or trunk decay. i don't see either. it is likely that what you have on your hands is a perfectly heathy tree. 

i'm sure the other guys are wondering the same things as me, so let us know.
kevin


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## Evan629 (Mar 17, 2008)

in my opinion lawns never come before trees, clean it up, prune them a little, add a small amount of soil then put a large mulch ring around the trees.
as for making it look more attractive use some low maitenence ground cover and hostas, from the pics these are healthy trees, you wouldn't want to cut a healthy tree down would you.


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## petersenj20 (Mar 17, 2008)

masterarbor said:


> i just don't see the hazard. is the soil up rooting? also, ARE THERE ANY TREES THAT ARE NEARBY THAT THEY MIGHT BE GROWING AWAY FROM? this is usually the case and if so, poses no threat whatsoever. what you are looking for is this:  loose and up heaving soil opposite the lean or significant root and flare rot or trunk decay.



No dirt upheaval. The tree you see to the rear is 15-20 feet away. Taking this picture I am facing North. There is a big poplar about 30 feet to the Soutwest.

I have raised the canopy in the last couple of years. I really like the tree when it changes color in the fall. I think it is either a sugar maple or red maple though I'm not sure. It's riddled with woodpecker holes.

The tree is very healthy. No rot or decay to speak of. I made a rake handle out of one of the tree limbs that works fine.


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## masterarbor (Mar 17, 2008)

it is only leaning away from the tree to the south- it's fine.


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## extremewoodwork (Mar 17, 2008)

The only tools you need are a telephone. Call your local arborist get his opinion and make a decision based on his two cents. Then when you decide its still dangerous in spite of his best recomendation hire him to do the work. He will be insured and has a plethera of experience that doesnt leave him guessing what he is doing. Tree work is dangerous and hard for people who do it much less people who dont do it. Someone out in your town needs the work so give them a call.


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## nssailer (Mar 18, 2008)

*trick for opposite lean*

if indeed the tree does need to come down here is a little trick for felling against the lean. first you will want to drop as many limbs on back cut side to decrease the weight toward your garage. then start with a plunge cut on your back cut side and push all the way through the tree. the cut is to be right in the middle of the tree, now use a side to side motion to give you a little room on either side of your wedge(make sure you don't cut off your holding wood). this allows you to insert a wedge early in the process. the wedge should be pounded in as far as possible, giving you lift to the back side of your tree. now you can start on your face and sloping cut. your face cut can be more than 1/3 but don't go over 1/2. you should see some lift after this step. pound your wedge in until it stops. now you can start on the rest of your back cut. the trick here is not to cut your wedge if the diameter of your tree is as small as it looks. start on the side that has the most back lean to it. cut until you have an inch or two of hinge wood, then set another wedge. now you can cut the other side and that should do the trick for you. you should know that this is not an easy cut to perform, use of a rope is a good idea. if you need further clarification let me know.


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## tomtrees58 (Mar 18, 2008)

top it out tom trees


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## masterarbor (Mar 18, 2008)

i hope you're joking tom, and if not, please explain your rationale. i'm always curios to hear people's reasons for topping a tree.


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## kennertree (Mar 18, 2008)

masterarbor said:


> i hope you're joking tom, and if not, please explain your rationale. i'm always curios to hear people's reasons for topping a tree.



I think he's just trying to get a rise out of eveyone. If he's seious, just disregard this post petersonj20, topping will cause you more problems.


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## pdqdl (Mar 18, 2008)

*Let it grow some more !*



masterarbor said:


> it is only leaning away from the tree to the south- it's fine.



I agree. I don't see any problem, unless you don't like the tree.

If you don't know how to cut it down already, this is probably not the tree to start learning on. Pay some tree service to put it on the ground for you, if you want it to go away. 

Looks like about a $75 job to me, if all you want is the tree on the ground.


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## petersenj20 (Mar 18, 2008)

Thanks nssailer for some technique. 

I'm still unsure what I want to do. Trees are cool and I love them but I like the house better. This last weeks LARGE storm in Georgia makes me sway more to the cutting down. After all I can live without the tree but not the house. If it were to fall with the lean it would actually miss the house but it would take out the power line and vehicles.

I appreciate all the advice here. I'm just worried about it. I have attached a drawing of the layout.


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## Nailsbeats (Mar 18, 2008)

Tree looks fine to me, but if you want to cut it ge a pro to put it on the ground and you can cut it up. A pro would put a rope in it and pull it over, done. You can't risk trying this yourself because of the lean to the house and property. Easy to do damage if you don't know exactly what you are doing and what you are looking at.


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## timberwolf tree (Mar 18, 2008)

i don't think its a maple 

looks like a hybrid to me 

then again I'm not familiar with the south


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## clearance (Mar 18, 2008)

The holding wood on maples sucks, bigtime. They are fine to pull over slowly if you are pulling them totally opposite their lean, (backwards). If you pull them slowly and they lean two ways, the holding wood can snap and they will fall where they naturally lean. In this case its best to pull them fast.

Also they have a tendency to barberchair, so wrap the butt above the undercut with a chain or bull rope before you make the backcut.


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## masterarbor (Mar 18, 2008)

this post reminds me of some homeowner that gets it in his head that's something is dangerous and he just keeps getting opinions until someone tells him what he wants too hear. it looks like there is plenty of wind shear protection in the area anyways. if you want to cut it down, do it, but i don't think you are going to convince any of us that it is a "problem" tree.


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## hornett224 (Mar 19, 2008)

*i'd leave the tree.*

call an arborist out to thin it out for sun light and lyme the hell out of the soil and replant grass.annual rye should get you green in a couple weeks with good watering practice.mix the annual rye with your permanant seed such as fescue.

that soil looks pretty compacted.rent an aerator as well and give it hell.i wouldn't use a tiller because of the possibility of damaging the roots of the trees.


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## petersenj20 (Mar 19, 2008)

masterarbor said:


> this post reminds me of some homeowner that gets it in his head that's something is dangerous and he just keeps getting opinions until someone tells him what he wants too hear. it looks like there is plenty of wind shear protection in the area anyways. if you want to cut it down, do it, but i don't think you are going to convince any of us that it is a "problem" tree.



I couldn't leave well enough alone. 

You make a very valid point. The title of this post is "How to cut this tree oposite from the lean" (Even though I spelled it wrong). Not "Should I cut this down or leave it standing?" 

There has been a great deal of advice here that I greatly respect. Your post states the obvious though. I do think it is dangerous and I was wondering how to cut it down. Thanks for your input and contribution to the thread.


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## (WLL) (Mar 19, 2008)

petersenj20 said:


> I was wondering how to cut it down.


i wood use the ol sawzaw and lay er across the wire so it cant hit the house, but if i was u id call my local landscraper and try n save a few bucks. Arborists charge way too much fer tree work!


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## masterarbor (Mar 19, 2008)

petersenj20 said:


> I couldn't leave well enough alone.
> 
> You make a very valid point. The title of this post is "How to cut this tree oposite from the lean" (Even though I spelled it wrong). Not "Should I cut this down or leave it standing?"
> 
> There has been a great deal of advice here that I greatly respect. Your post states the obvious though. I do think it is dangerous and I was wondering how to cut it down. Thanks for your input and contribution to the thread.



oh, my bad. yeah, so you throw an extension cord over the lowest limb and have your neighbor pull on it while you work the sawzall using a back and forth motion. good luck.


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## Bigus Termitius (Mar 19, 2008)

You could give it another year and find a way to tell for sure that it is leaning more.

It doesn't look all that bad really.

But if you want to kill it, why not let someone else share the guilt. 

A good conscience is sometimes priceless you know. :angel: 

Hire a professional tree killer. Like me, I kill so many in a daze time, I've gone totally numb. :help: 

Now, people and property come first. Makes me love and care for properly placed and healthy trees even more.  

Just promise to plant a better suited tree in its place and everthing is going to be alright!! 

Perhaps a nicely suited evergreen or two of your choice would look great in that area.


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## petersenj20 (Mar 19, 2008)

masterarbor said:


> oh, my bad. yeah, so you throw an extension cord over the lowest limb and have your neighbor pull on it while you work the sawzall using a back and forth motion. good luck.



Yeah, but should my sawzall have a skip tooth grind or a standard blade?


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## pdqdl (Mar 20, 2008)

hornett224 said:


> call an arborist out to thin it out for sun light and lyme the hell out of the soil and replant grass.annual rye should get you green in a couple weeks with good watering practice.mix the annual rye with your permanant seed such as fescue.
> 
> that soil looks pretty compacted.rent an aerator as well and give it hell.i wouldn't use a tiller because of the possibility of damaging the roots of the trees.



Much like tree trimming, lawn problems sometimes require a better understanding to solve. You might consider calling a lawn expert _from your area._

1. NEVER apply lime without a soil test. You may just make the problem worse, rather than better. In any event, a soil test will tell you how much to apply, if needed. Why risk putting the wrong amount down, or the expense of an unnecessary application ?

2. Soil compaction is hard to evaluate from a picture, but it's almost always ok to do. The more aeration, the better, but I don't think it will solve your problem.

3. The old practice of planting annual rye as a "nursery" crop has fallen into disfavor, particulary with turf type fescue. According to most turf experts, all it does is add competition for the perennial grass. Fescue germinates about as fast as rye, anyway.


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## treeseer (Mar 20, 2008)

Tree is leaning to the open. Pruning it to balance would be simple and cheap and lower the risk immensely. You value the color and do not value grass; do not let a tornado downtown drive you to kill your assets.


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## petersenj20 (Mar 20, 2008)

treeseer said:


> do not let a tornado downtown drive you to kill your assets.


You know a little too much about me. I got some crappy pictures of hail the size of a softball. 

I've had a lot of good advice here. I'm gonna let it ride; but if it falls I swear to Christ you're all coming to help clean the mess.


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## treeseer (Mar 20, 2008)

petersenj20 said:


> You know a little too much about me. I got some crappy pictures of hail the size of a softball.


Nah, not you personally, anyway...I have dealt with arborphobia for some time now.

Yes I will be there to clean up the mess, first chance i get. But I will be traveling from huntsville to atlanta on the first of april, so if you want a professional pruning job done that is guaranteed to reduce the risk and retain the benefits, drop me a line.


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## huskykid141 (Mar 22, 2008)

*dropping the tree*

All you need is a couple guys that know what there doing and a good rope and wedges. If you are really worried about it you could always use a cable and attach it to a come along. that will pull the top of the tree right over in the direction you want it to go. You could always also attach a rope in a notch of a tree or around a big branch and have someone pull on the rope and operate the come along. If you do this you shouldn't have a problem taking the tree down.


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