# Splitter Build



## breymeyerfam (Nov 29, 2017)

My old splitter is just that. Old, underpowered, and ugly. I built it out of mostly scraps. It has a boom lift. Non adjustable 4 way wedge that is removable. 4 inch cylinder. I needed a new winter project,so this is it. Won't be a quick build. I'm going to try to make this new one a little less fugly!
OLD SPLITTER pic attached


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## moondoggie (Nov 29, 2017)

breymeyerfam said:


> My old splitter is just that. Old, underpowered, and ugly. I built it out of mostly scraps. It has a boom lift. Non adjustable 4 way wedge that is removable. 4 inch cylinder. I needed a new winter project,so this is it. Won't be a quick build. I'm going to try to make this new one a little less fugly!
> OLD SPLITTER pic attached


Looks good to me!


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## breymeyerfam (Nov 29, 2017)

New splitter requirements:
1. Indestructible - tired of fixing stuff
2. Plenty of power (5" cylinder)
3. Hydraulically adjustable 4 way wedge
4. Log lift. 

Haven't decided on type of log lift. I like the boom lift on my current splitter since it rotates almost 360°, but I'm thinking of doing the normal side lift table.


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## GM_Grimmy (Nov 30, 2017)

breymeyerfam said:


> 1. Indestructible - tired of fixing stuff
> 2. Plenty of power (5" cylinder)


If you're breaking stuff with a 4", you will break more with a 5". I personally think 4" can be more than enough, if the wedge design is right, and you run the right pressure. I would be concerned with what's breaking and why.


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## breymeyerfam (Nov 30, 2017)

The beginnings of this splitter started when I was in my late teens. Let's just say most of the flaws of my old splitter can be attributed to my fab skills, attention to detail, and design/ material selection all may have not been up to par when I first built it. 

My new design I have been thinking about and tweaking for a few years. Where I have ended up, is very similar to the Eastonmade 12-22. I will post a screen shot of what I have 3d modeled so far.


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## blades (Nov 30, 2017)

looks plenty functional to me muti wedges are a bane on any splitter on the bright side they do make a lot of kindling.


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## breymeyerfam (Nov 30, 2017)

The beam is a 10x30.


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## blades (Dec 1, 2017)

A suggestion for the beam - use 2 rectangular schedule 40 tubes ( my own unit uses a pair of 4x6 schedule 40 tubes welded together all along the mating surfaces. way more strength that a W or H beam in all directions. As far as the flanges for the slide that can be bolted or welded on angle Iron ( which makes them replaceable if a oops happens or just too much wear.) you can also add a wear plate on top of the tubes ( i have a 3/8 x 8" plate on top) could be bolted or welded in place. i have manged to flex it ( 5" cylinder close to 30ton) but never deformed it, H or W beams deform generally along the length from the face of the cylinder to the wedge ( have T-shirt to that effect.)


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 1, 2017)

Too late to change beams...


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## dave_dj1 (Dec 1, 2017)

Looks good, keep up the good work!


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## dave_dj1 (Dec 1, 2017)

blades said:


> A suggestion for the beam - use 2 rectangular schedule 40 tubes ( my own unit uses a pair of 4x6 schedule 40 tubes welded together all along the mating surfaces. way more strength that a W or H beam in all directions. As far as the flanges for the slide that can be bolted or welded on angle Iron ( which makes them replaceable if a oops happens or just too much wear.) you can also add a wear plate on top of the tubes ( i have a 3/8 x 8" plate on top) could be bolted or welded in place. i have manged to flex it ( 5" cylinder close to 30ton) but never deformed it, H or W beams deform generally along the length from the face of the cylinder to the wedge ( have T-shirt to that effect.)



Got a picture?


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## blades (Dec 1, 2017)

has the 3/8 plate on top


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 1, 2017)

dave_dj1 said:


> Looks good, keep up the good work!



Thanks! After building the boiler last year, I had to start another fab project, I was getting bored! Lol


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## Preacher Mike (Dec 2, 2017)

That beam looks a bit wimpy for the wedge height. Ecspecially for a 5” cylinder. 

I pray your u have a plan to reinfore it for twisting forces.


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## dave_dj1 (Dec 2, 2017)

blades said:


> has the 3/8 plate on top


Kind of what I envisioned. How do you have the slide, does it go all the way around the tubes?


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## blades (Dec 2, 2017)

angel iron for slide guides skip weld on side if something goes south easy fix


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## GVS (Dec 2, 2017)

breymeyerfam said:


> My old splitter is just that. Old, underpowered, and ugly. I built it out of mostly scraps. It has a boom lift. Non adjustable 4 way wedge that is removable. 4 inch cylinder. I needed a new winter project,so this is it. Won't be a quick build. I'm going to try to make this new one a little less fugly!
> OLD SPLITTER pic attached


It may be fugly today but 60 years ago it was cutting edge!


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## kevin j (Dec 2, 2017)

GVS said:


> It may be fugly today but 60 years ago it was cutting edge!



And a great leap forward from a maul.


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## Ted Jenkins (Dec 2, 2017)

If you plan on using a splitter for more than a dozen cords of wood then the top plate on top of your cradle needs to be at least a inch thick to reduce wear. My original was 3/4'' thick and worked OK, but had to rebuild the I beam every couple of years. Eventually welded another 1/2'' under the top edge and it is now going several years before needing to be refaced. Another thing that I stumbled on to was using heavy gauge tubing for the base of the cradle which acts like a cooler along with hydraulic storage. Are you planning for suspension or are your roads flat? Thanks


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## Kevin in Ohio (Dec 2, 2017)

Ted Jenkins said:


> If you plan on using a splitter for more than a dozen cords of wood then the top plate on top of your cradle needs to be at least a inch thick to reduce wear. My original was 3/4'' thick and worked OK, but had to rebuild the I beam every couple of years. Eventually welded another 1/2'' under the top edge and it is now going several years before needing to be refaced. Another thing that I stumbled on to was using heavy gauge tubing for the base of the cradle which acts like a cooler along with hydraulic storage. Are you planning for suspension or are your roads flat? Thanks




That's why I like the box on a box design. I've gone to that and have had NO issues. That and make the slide box as long as you can, mine is 16 inches. Takes any side play out of the equation as it is so long and the wear is basically eliminated. I'm running a 5 inch diameter cylinder with a 30 inch stroke which I adjust down too 24 but nice to have options.


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 2, 2017)

Ted Jenkins said:


> If you plan on using a splitter for more than a dozen cords of wood then the top plate on top of your cradle needs to be at least a inch thick to reduce wear. Are you planning for suspension or are your roads flat? Thanks


This beam has .5 thick flange. Should be fine for a while. My current splitter is only .25 wall tube. It has 90-100 cord through it and is not wore down much. As for suspension, I'm looking for a torsion axle, but haven't had much luck finding one used. If I can't find one it's not that big of deal going solid, as 99% of my splitting occurs within a mile from home.


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## Ted Jenkins (Dec 2, 2017)

If your new beam has a 1/2'' that is 100% more wear surface than 1/4''. They can be rebuilt and faced some what time consuming, but doable. I envy anybody that can process wood within a mile of their home. It takes me most of a day to get to my wood cutting project and setup. On one splitter I took square tubing and welding axle spindles on the ends with pivot joints on the other ends. This made some what of a twin I beam suspension, If you only have to haul five miles or less you are good to go. Thanks


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## motolife313 (Dec 2, 2017)

breymeyerfam said:


> Thanks! After building the boiler last year, I had to start another fab project, I was getting bored! Lol
> View attachment 615967


Just wondering how this fire place works?


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## ChoppyChoppy (Dec 2, 2017)

I would not expect a 1/2" thick plate that the pusher is riding on to wear in thousands of hours.

The older processor we run has almost 9000 hours and the beam is not worn much. The push plate itself has enough wear that it's a bit sloppy, but it still works just fine. It's had thousands of cords of wood run through it. I'd bet it sees more wood in a year than most people will process in a lifetime.


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 3, 2017)

motolife313 said:


> Just wondering how this fire place works?


Are you asking how an outdoor woodboiler works? Or how mine works compared to others?


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## motolife313 (Dec 3, 2017)

How a broiler works?I've tried to find them on a thread and can't


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 3, 2017)

motolife313 said:


> How a broiler works?I've tried to find them on a thread and can't


Fire heats water jacket surrounding it. Fire is controlled by an aquastat. My aquastat is set to maintain temp between 165 and 175°. Pumps constantly circulate the hot water through insulated under ground pipes to the building being heated and back. The hot water is plumbed into your furnace with a heat exchanger and your furnace cycles the fan only to heat as needed. This is the basic most common setup. I also heat my domestic hot water, my concrete floor in my basement, and my 34x48 work shop.


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## Ted Jenkins (Dec 3, 2017)

I have done a little bit of hot water heating fabrication so I do understand most of what is going on. So does one put wood into your furnace every two hours or so? How efficient is your system or how warm does the housing get. Is the area surrounding the fire a series of water tanks or does it use tubing. Do you use distilled water with antifreeze. Do you have to treat for mineral buildup. Thanks


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## motolife313 (Dec 4, 2017)

Got it thanks. So pretty much like the heater in your car. I thought of that before. It's a good idea.


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 4, 2017)

My boiler build is fully documented here: https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...r-owb-build-thread-tank-in-tank-style.298953/


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## Jakers (Dec 4, 2017)

breymeyerfam said:


> My boiler build is fully documented here: https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...r-owb-build-thread-tank-in-tank-style.298953/


Except your pictures don't show up on photobucket anymore....


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 4, 2017)

Jakers said:


> Except your pictures don't show up on photobucket anymore....


Yeah, photobucket pretty much single handedly destroyed everything I've ever posted. I've decided I'm not going back and fixing all the old chainsaw porting, pipe building, and gtgs that I documented, but I am going to go back and fix the boiler build pics. It may take me a week or so, but I have all the pics still.


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 4, 2017)

Im looking for a source for a 5x24 cylinder with a 3.5" rod. I have found a 30" stroke one, but cant seem to find a 24" one. I can always mechanically restrict the 30" stroke if needed...


https://www.ruggedmade.com/parts/sp...-stroke-5-bore-3-5-rod-3-4-work-ports-98.html


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## cantoo (Dec 4, 2017)

Ted, lots of different setups out there. Mine is pretty simple. Stainless steel tank in a tank design. There are tubes inside the fire chamber that allow water to circulate as it heats. Mine holds approx. 500 gallons of soft water so I have a lot of heat storage. During the summer I only heat my domestic ( shower, tap water) water so I only put scraps in it every couple or 3 days. Only put enough in it to keep a few coals in there, doesn't take much to heat it. During the winter we put 4 -8 pieces of 6'X 32" long ash in it, maybe twice per day. We heat 2 houses, 2 domestic hot water and supplement heat a 25x 60 shop. I burn poplar and other crap during shoulder seasons.
The boiler has it's own aquastat and all it does is maintain what ever temperature I set it to. Insulated water lines run to the house and back to the boiler. My circulation pump is in the basement and runs 24/7. In the house there is a thermosat that is connected to my furnace and when it calls for heat it turns the fan on in the furnace exchanger.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Dec 4, 2017)

breymeyerfam said:


> Im looking for a source for a 5x24 cylinder with a 3.5" rod. I have found a 30" stroke one, but cant seem to find a 24" one. I can always mechanically restrict the 30" stroke if needed...
> View attachment 616619
> 
> https://www.ruggedmade.com/parts/sp...-stroke-5-bore-3-5-rod-3-4-work-ports-98.html



***Not designed for use with “universal” or "tractor" hydraulic fluid***
Wonder why? I can't think of anything in a cylinder that 303 or UTF would not be ok, but AW32 would be.

Could try calling Blockbuster (firewood processor guys, not the movie rental place haha). The only on my processor is a 4.5" with a 3" rod. I think the bigger machines have a larger cylinder.
Worth a try anyhow. Just need to ask for Tony can tell him Nate from Alaska with the 15-20 sent you.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Dec 4, 2017)

cantoo said:


> Ted, lots of different setups out there. Mine is pretty simple. Stainless steel tank in a tank design. There are tubes inside the fire chamber that allow water to circulate as it heats. Mine holds approx. 500 gallons of soft water so I have a lot of heat storage. During the summer I only heat my domestic ( shower, tap water) water so I only put scraps in it every couple or 3 days. Only put enough in it to keep a few coals in there, doesn't take much to heat it. During the winter we put 4 -8 pieces of 6'X 32" long ash in it, maybe twice per day. We heat 2 houses, 2 domestic hot water and supplement heat a 25x 60 shop. I burn poplar and other crap during shoulder seasons.
> The boiler has it's own aquastat and all it does is maintain what ever temperature I set it to. Insulated water lines run to the house and back to the boiler. My circulation pump is in the basement and runs 24/7. In the house there is a thermosat that is connected to my furnace and when it calls for heat it turns the fan on in the furnace exchanger.



How do you load a 6ft long 32" chunk of wood into the boiler? Some type of hydraulic loader? We use 2ft long stuff in the shop stove, usually split it but keep it fairly large. (not a boiler, but it's a big ass stove) 
Sometimes those are a bit of a SOB to get into the stove.
I smashed my thumb last year, slammed it into the door edge while trying to go full retard with a bit old chuck of wood. I about passed out and threw up all while my brain was still trying to process what just happened. That thumb bothered me for MONTHS after that!


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## Jakers (Dec 4, 2017)

ValleyFirewood said:


> ***Not designed for use with “universal” or "tractor" hydraulic fluid***
> Wonder why? I can't think of anything in a cylinder that 303 or UTF would not be ok, but AW32 would be.
> 
> Could try calling Blockbuster (firewood processor guys, not the movie rental place haha). The only on my processor is a 4.5" with a 3" rod. I think the bigger machines have a larger cylinder.
> Worth a try anyhow. Just need to ask for Tony can tell him Nate from Alaska with the 15-20 sent you.


i believe they are trying to limit the weight or viscosity of the oil being used. while some universals may be 15-20, others come in at more like 25W-30W oil and i think that would be a bit thick for the flow rate the cylinder will produce on the retract stroke. im guessing they are saying that to prevent damage due to either hot oil or attempting to "over flow" the coupled parts to the cylinder. Just my .02 cents


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## Jakers (Dec 4, 2017)

breymeyerfam said:


> Im looking for a source for a 5x24 cylinder with a 3.5" rod. I have found a 30" stroke one, but cant seem to find a 24" one. I can always mechanically restrict the 30" stroke if needed...
> View attachment 616619
> 
> https://www.ruggedmade.com/parts/sp...-stroke-5-bore-3-5-rod-3-4-work-ports-98.html


another option would be to have a hydraulic shop shorten this one or just build you a new one from scratch. that is definitely a special size rod for that cylinder and may not be cheap to build. wood splitter is about the only practical application for that bore/rod configuration as it wouldn't have much power on the return stroke at all. it should also be noted that the flow requires all parts to be matched so you can utilize the benefits and don't damage things


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## Ted Jenkins (Dec 5, 2017)

A 24'' ram is just plain too short. I have a 30'' and 32'' which is just right If you are not planning on selling any wood then any size will work. Typically I cut 18'' wood, but on occasion I need special sizes or you have really long wood to process. You can set up your auto detent to stop at what ever size you desire so you never have a wasted stroke or wasted time. Thanks


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## grizz55chev (Dec 5, 2017)

ValleyFirewood said:


> How do you load a 6ft long 32" chunk of wood into the boiler? Some type of hydraulic loader? We use 2ft long stuff in the shop stove, usually split it but keep it fairly large. (not a boiler, but it's a big ass stove)
> Sometimes those are a bit of a SOB to get into the stove.
> I smashed my thumb last year, slammed it into the door edge while trying to go full retard with a bit old chuck of wood. I about passed out and threw up all while my brain was still trying to process what just happened. That thumb bothered me for MONTHS after that!


Reread, he said 6”by 32” long.


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## GM_Grimmy (Dec 5, 2017)

breymeyerfam said:


> Im looking for a source for a 5x24 cylinder with a 3.5" rod. I have found a 30" stroke one, but cant seem to find a 24" one. I can always mechanically restrict the 30" stroke if needed...
> View attachment 616619
> 
> https://www.ruggedmade.com/parts/sp...-stroke-5-bore-3-5-rod-3-4-work-ports-98.html


Had a local shop, about an hour away, custom make mine, because I couldn't find one. The rod is bigger than 3.5" though. It was pretty freaking heavy too!!


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## ChoppyChoppy (Dec 5, 2017)

grizz55chev said:


> Reread, he said 6”by 32” long.



Nope, says 6ftx32in.

"4 -8 pieces of 6'X 32" long ash in it,"

6"x32" would make sense though for some reason I didn't think of that last night. Was picturing a really big boiler.


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## grizz55chev (Dec 5, 2017)

I stand corrected, until he corrects it, lol! We need a judgement call, Cantoo! 6’ or 6”?


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 5, 2017)

Made a hell of a mess on the mill tonight...


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 5, 2017)

Did some math tonight. Unfortunately going to a 5"cylinder that has anything over a 2" rod will not do me any good. My valves only flow up to 25gpm. A 5" cylinder with a 3.5" rod paired with a 22gpm pump would nearly double the gpm out of the cylinder on the retract. So with adding a dump valve, no help. Extra cost of the 3.5 rod cylinder AND a dump valve and the extra plumbing I don't think will be worth it... I'm not selling firewood and don't need a 6 second cycle. I'm very content with a 10-11 second cycle. However cool a super fast cycle would be, I'm back to a standard 5"x24"cylinder.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Dec 5, 2017)

The valves are often spec'd at pump flow, not cylinder flow, although yes, a large rod is moving a ton of oil on retract. I'm too lazy to figure the numbers, I know my setup with a 30gpm pump is about 70gpm on retract.
I have a "25gpm" valve, it does just fine. I do have a pilot operated check valve (aka dump valve) though.

Looks like the blue splitter has one under the valve, looks like it may be the same Sun Hydraulics one I have.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Dec 6, 2017)

breymeyerfam said:


> Did some math tonight. Unfortunately going to a 5"cylinder that has anything over a 2" rod will not do me any good. My valves only flow up to 25gpm. A 5" cylinder with a 3.5" rod paired with a 22gpm pump would nearly double the gpm out of the cylinder on the retract. So with adding a dump valve, no help. Extra cost of the 3.5 rod cylinder AND a dump valve and the extra plumbing I don't think will be worth it... I'm not selling firewood and don't need a 6 second cycle. I'm very content with a 10-11 second cycle. However cool a super fast cycle would be, I'm back to a standard 5"x24"cylinder.



I, Like ValleyFirewood am running a 5" x 30" cylinder with a 2 1/2" rod. Running an auto cycle valve and a 28 GPM pump. I have had no issues and James at Splitez who sold me the parts said I'd be Okay. He was right as he has built a LOT of splitters. I am running a bypass but have no cooler. I have a 30 gallon reserve tank too. As long as you do a tidy hose routing with the least amount of els you will be fine.







long sweep els and hose loops are your friends!


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## kljahnz (Dec 6, 2017)

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/grd/d/lawn-mower-jd-log-splitter/6413639548.html
on craigslist here in minnn.
log splitter parts.


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## GM_Grimmy (Dec 6, 2017)

breymeyerfam said:


> Did some math tonight. Unfortunately going to a 5"cylinder that has anything over a 2" rod will not do me any good. My valves only flow up to 25gpm. A 5" cylinder with a 3.5" rod paired with a 22gpm pump would nearly double the gpm out of the cylinder on the retract. So with adding a dump valve, no help. Extra cost of the 3.5 rod cylinder AND a dump valve and the extra plumbing I don't think will be worth it... I'm not selling firewood and don't need a 6 second cycle. I'm very content with a 10-11 second cycle. However cool a super fast cycle would be, I'm back to a standard 5"x24"cylinder.


5" cylinder with 3.5 rod, on 22 gpm pump, you'll have about 43 gpm on the return stroke coming from the cylinder, with a cycle time of 8.4 second (5.5 out, 2.84 return). With a 2" rod, it will be 22gpm, and cylce time of 10.2 (5.5 out, 4.6 return).

You can add a dump valve, and that will be more than plenty for the return stroke. Just get a high enough gpm dump valve. Even if you got the 30 gpm rated dump valve from Splitez, you could effectively handle up to 55gpm on the return, as your control valve will still handle 25gpm (it will handle more than that, but to use nice round numbers). I run a 25 gpm valve on my 4 way and log lift, but I have a 28gpm pump. I wanted it that way to make heat. I have about 35 gallons of oil and I want it to heat up, but I'm also running a cooler that keeps it from getting too warm (set at 140 degrees).

All depends on your operation. How I have mine, it's setup for a 2 man crew, where one guy is running the splitter, and the other if feeding it. If it were a solo operation, then the return stroke would be less of a deal, as you'll eventually run out of wood, but it'll be returned by the time you get wood ready. Since I'm a 2 man, the guy running has to wait for the ram to get out of the way to grab another piece off the lift, so return time is important to me. It comes at a cost though. Anything fast with hydraulics is going to cost you, if you do it safely and use the correct parts. I'd add the 65 gpm valve, in case you upped your pump later on to a 28, then it's ready to go.

Can see a little better of my dump valve. It dumps right to the tank, after the filter and bypasses the cooler.


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## FlyingDutchman (Dec 6, 2017)

If you used two smaller cylinders and a sequence valve (like the Prince RD1000) you don't have to use a dump valve and flow everything to return, you can just hook the head end up to a tank. And the cylinders would work together under load to equal one larger one.

This is what I came up with for my 2 cylinder splitter (trying to overcome slow cycle times and a single stage pump). Theoretically, if you had a very small cycling cylinder for #2 (like 2") and a 4" for #1, your cycle times to load would be awesome and you'd have plenty of piston area for lots of force once the system encountered a load. 2" cylinders aren't too expensive. Some weld on 1/2" or 3/4" bungs will overcome the fact that most of them have 3/8'ths ports on them. With a 2 stage pump, you have a 3 stage splitter. 

Maybe someone will try it before me and tell me if it will work lol.


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## Yarz (Dec 6, 2017)

breymeyerfam said:


> I'm not selling firewood and don't need a 6 second cycle. I'm very content with a 10-11 second cycle.



It's a good thing to be able to separate needs and wants. It keeps you from going too far down the rabbit hole.


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 10, 2017)

Haven't got much accomplished this week, but I did get the 4 way wedge finished. Saved a little time, I scavaged the side wedges off an old failed attempt at a 6 way. The wedge all the way up is about 9-10 inches above the beam.


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## dave_dj1 (Dec 11, 2017)

Looking good! I wish I had a mill when I built my blade, ruined a new Kawasaki grinder


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## cumminstinkerer (Dec 11, 2017)

ValleyFirewood said:


> ***Not designed for use with “universal” or "tractor" hydraulic fluid***
> Wonder why? I can't think of anything in a cylinder that 303 or UTF would not be ok, but AW32 would be.
> 
> Could try calling Blockbuster (firewood processor guys, not the movie rental place haha). The only on my processor is a 4.5" with a 3" rod. I think the bigger machines have a larger cylinder.
> Worth a try anyhow. Just need to ask for Tony can tell him Nate from Alaska with the 15-20 sent you.


Valley, the viscosity is the only thing I could see, I have had extensive conversations with an chemical engineer and all those fluids can be interchanged, EP gear oil is one you have to be careful with, it can have adverse effects on brass. Some system, only hdrostats that I have seen, require standard engine oil, has to do with the shear strength of the UTF, I cannot believe that you could ever, ever generate those pressures in a splitter. We are talking over 4500 before any issues arise and then only under certain circumstances. Gear pumps and even piston pumps not subject to over 4000 psi or the off chance of extreme cavitation are perfectly fine with a UTF type fluid. Water suspension can also be considered an issue, engine oil is actually meant to not bind with water while UTF type fluids are meant to keep the water in suspension. Now I am not saying go out and dump anything you have with engine oil or EP gear oil and change it but there are definitely options. The old 48A D7E cat i ran called for engine oil in everything but the finals, after extensive research and visits wit the Petroleum engineer and Cat we tried UTF in all of it but the engine, everything held up excellently and cold weather performance improved. I am by no means an engineer just a mechanic that likes to learn and try things.
Jason


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## cumminstinkerer (Dec 11, 2017)

cumminstinkerer said:


> Valley, the viscosity is the only thing I could see, I have had extensive conversations with an chemical engineer and all those fluids can be interchanged, EP gear oil is one you have to be careful with, it can have adverse effects on brass. Some system, only hdrostats that I have seen, require standard engine oil, has to do with the shear strength of the UTF, I cannot believe that you could ever, ever generate those pressures in a splitter. We are talking over 4500 before any issues arise and then only under certain circumstances. Gear pumps and even piston pumps not subject to over 4000 psi or the off chance of extreme cavitation are perfectly fine with a UTF type fluid. Water suspension can also be considered an issue, engine oil is actually meant to not bind with water while UTF type fluids are meant to keep the water in suspension. Now I am not saying go out and dump anything you have with engine oil or EP gear oil and change it but there are definitely options. The old 48A D7E cat i ran called for engine oil in everything but the finals, after extensive research and visits wit the Petroleum engineer and Cat we tried UTF in all of it but the engine, everything held up excellently and cold weather performance improved. I am by no means an engineer just a mechanic that likes to learn and try things.
> Jason


To further that statement, i sorta forgot that to throw out there are different viscosities of UTF now if the oil meets MS1209 specs then it should 15 weight I believe, don't have my paper work in front of me. MS 1209 is the spec for Hy-Tran, Hy-Guard and sorry but I cant think of Cat's name for it right now. If you ever have serious oil questions and need truthful answers call a company called Petricon and get in tough with Joe G. His last name is very hard to spell but here is a rough phonetic version Geovaughnatso, The spelling is no where near right. That guy is a wiz with oil and antifreeze.


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## cumminstinkerer (Dec 11, 2017)

Guys, just got to thinking about how I worded that whole mess of stuff... I see you all liked so I assume it came off ok but I sure didn't mean to sound like a smart butt if I did. I sure wasn't kidding about Joe though, he is amazing and really friendly. Oil is funny stuff and some insight can sure help. When I worked for Case CE we had issues with new road graders not shifting right when it got cold, final solution was we had to run a special version of hytran, build a machine in Georgia off Italian/Brazilian design then wonder why stuff don't work here in Iowa when it gets cold. When we switched that old D7E over to the UTF I could steer and had hydraulic function way faster when it was cold. I know for sure in the 1800 and XT series Case skidsteers were they say to use 10W-30 you better, the Gerotor motors used in the hydros will destroy the rollers if you don't, Has something to do with Zinc. Most other applications you can switch around oils. Just watch out if the system has a gerotor motor. i have like five pages of service bulletins on why that is. When designing any system or changing oils keep in mind what you are planning to do with the system, what you have for components, and how you will handle moisture and heat. If in doubt your safest will really always be to fall back to an appropriate weight engine oil.
Since we are on that the API service classification is important in some scenarios too. You can run a C class oil in all engines but not an S class in a Diesel. C-whatever stand for compression ignition, also carries a much higher detergent and additive package, S whatever is Spark ignition. One can run a C class in spark ignited engines, just be careful if you switch from an S to C class, a very short initial couple of oil filter changes is needed. The C class will clean carbon and other debris out of an engine. NOTE THIS IS STRICTLY FOUR STROKE AND TWO STROKE WITH AN OIL SUMP, does not apply to fuel/oil mix two stroke.


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## Jakers (Dec 11, 2017)

I really like that somebody is taking the time to point out these things. I've gotten into many arguments over oils and their uses with people and have come to the conclusion that I'll do what I know to be safe that works and let others do what they want.


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 11, 2017)

Did someone say something about oils? Mine is the best! I run a stihl ultra, amsoil, royal purple, klotz, yamalube, mobile 1, rotella t6 mix in everything! IT'S THE BESTEST!


Just kidding.


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## Jakers (Dec 11, 2017)

breymeyerfam said:


> Did someone say something about oils? Mine is the best! I run a stihl ultra, amsoil, royal purple, klotz, yamalube, mobile 1, rotella t6 mix in everything! IT'S THE BESTEST!
> 
> 
> Just kidding.


and always mix 42.1682:1


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 17, 2017)

Cut all the plates to to weld up the pusher. Also drilled all the holes to mount the pusher slides, but forgot to snap a pic while on the drill press.


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## Sandhill Crane (Dec 18, 2017)

Four-way wedge design:
The first photo shows a pretty standard design. The splits end up one of three places... stuck on or under the wedge, on the out feed table, or on the ground. 
The second and third photo show a modification, a shelf design. The splits do get trapped below the four-way, but can be un-trapped by raising the four-way after splitting and the pieces pulled forward with a pulp hook to re-split if need be. The splits above the four-way are within reach of the operator without the operator having to move to the out feed table to retrieve huge splits. The lower split can be re-split on the single wedge while the two top split remain where they are, sitting nicely on top of the four-way, or the two top splits can be slid to the beam and log lift with a pulp hook and re-split with the four-way. It becomes very rhythmic and efficient without extra foot steps back and forth or lifting/carrying.
Almost every name brand splitter uses the narrow wing four-way design. I'm just not sure why...


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## GM_Grimmy (Dec 19, 2017)

Sandhill Crane said:


> Almost every name brand splitter uses the narrow wing four-way design. I'm just not sure why...


So I've seen this on another splitter that with a wide 4 way, the OP had pieces that would pop or jump up when the wood cracked under the pressure. They shortened the width of the 4 way (I don't remember how much, I think 2" per side) and they didn't have any problems after that. On some splitters, where the 4 way is on a post (not like the TW in your pic, where it's on the main wedge) the wider it is, the more pressure the post has to withstand, and cause cause issues with twisting, therefore leading to breaking. 

Also I get a few pieces once in a while stuck under my 4 way, but it's not that often. My 4 way wedge bevel is only one way though, up. If your bevel goes both ways, it splits in one spot and then pushes it down, hence why you get pieces stuck under the 4 way. That can be remedied in beam/table design, but doesn't do you any good if you already have the product.


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 20, 2017)

Made a little progress. Welded the pusher all up, except the cylinder mount, cause I still haven't made the final call on which cylinder yet...


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 20, 2017)

Log lift started and tacked to the beam.


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 20, 2017)

Turning bushings for the log lift cylinder. And the beam side lift cylinder mount welded in place. I will be using a 2x8 lift cylinder.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Dec 20, 2017)

What are you welding with, 6011?


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 20, 2017)

ValleyFirewood said:


> What are you welding with, 6011?


The cylinder mount and pusher I used mig. Most everything else has been 7018.


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 21, 2017)

Log lift side cylinder mount complete. Changed to a 10" cylinder. 

The following pic shows the lift as far as a 10" cylinder will take it. 


Question for you all... how wide is the foot piece on your guys log lifts? I'm thinking 14-15" should easily allow me to get a 30-32" round on it. Any more than that, I won't be rolling it around by hand anyway...


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 21, 2017)

Back stop or whatever you call it.


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## Jakers (Dec 21, 2017)

The "backstop" is generally referred to as a cradle. it all looks good. you do nice work. on the log lift I'd probably go 16-18" on the foot to allow for uneven pieces or limbs that weren't trimmed off completely. big crotches are also awkward to get on a shorter lift foot. the longer the better in my opinion. if you're doing smaller rounds the lift works well for a staging area. just pile up a bunch on the lift and split away. usually i start with the lift down a bit so it makes a nice V shape and fill it as full as i can keep them on there. start splitting then lift it to roll the bottom ones closer as necessary while splitting. a longer foot means less trips around the splitter


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 28, 2017)

Haven't made any progress lately. Been to busy being lazy, and playing with the kids after Christmas. I did however cut some wood today and had to pull the old splitter inside to get it to start. It looks puny compared to what I'm building...


I found 1/2" thick HDPE plastic sheet to use for the deck of the out feed table.


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 12, 2018)

Time to get back on this after slacking off for a while. Worked on the foot of the lift.


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 17, 2018)

I think I already know the answer to this question, but....

Is a honda gx390 engine worth double the cost of a predator 420cc?


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## WoodTick007 (Jan 17, 2018)

breymeyerfam said:


> I think I already know the answer to this question, but....
> 
> Is a honda gx390 engine worth double the cost of a predator 420cc?


No.
The Predator offer a 2 year extended warranty for a nominal amount. It is my understanding that you just drain the gas and oil and return it to the store. I believe it can only be exchanged once. . . but I would contact the Predator PEOPLE and verify.


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## WoodTick007 (Jan 17, 2018)

If your not in a hurrah wait until a holiday when they offer 25 percent discount quepons.
I think HF runs special qeupons for the St Valentine's Massacre.


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 17, 2018)

Unfortunately harbor freight generally doesn't allow the purchase of predator engines with a 20 or 25% coupon....


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 17, 2018)

I sourced the tank. I got this one off eBay new delivered for $239.99. Little scuffed and beat up from UPS throwing it around... , but it'll do. 25 gallon


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## dave_dj1 (Jan 20, 2018)

Nice going. I like the little side on the side opposite the lift, I need to do one of those. Are you going to put expanded metal on the lift? I think you will wish you had if you don't. I need to get started on another build...lol....got a 5" x 30" ram just sitting in the garage.
Edit: how do you like that little skill saw and is it noisy? I've never used one.


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 20, 2018)

dave_dj1 said:


> Are you going to put expanded metal on the lift?
> Edit: how do you like that little skill saw and is it noisy? I've never used one.


Yes, I am going to put something on the top of the lift. Don't think it will be expanded metal though.

As for my evolution metal cutting circular saw, I love it. I use it a lot less now that I have my plasma cutter, but quite handy. It's pretty noisy, but bearable. Unless you are cutting thin sheet metal....


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## WoodTick007 (Jan 20, 2018)

They might not let you use a quepon if the engine is on sale. The one near me lets the quepons be used off the regular selling price. It cannot be used for a engine greatly reduced for a sale.
Either way they are not a bad engine.


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 21, 2018)

Well, I have went on a shopping spree.
Engine - Lifan 15hp(Home Depot)
Magister hydraulics 5x24x2.5 cylinder
Wedge cylinder and filter base 
2x10 tie rod lift cylinder 
Valves, 22gpm pump


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## WoodTick007 (Jan 21, 2018)

Li


breymeyerfam said:


> Well, I have went on a shopping spree.
> Engine - Lifan 15hp(Home Depot)
> Magister hydraulics 5x24x2.5 cylinder
> Wedge cylinder and filter base - surplus center
> ...


Lifan good. . .replace string on pull cord.


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 23, 2018)

The Magister 5x24x2.5 cylinder came in today. I purchased it from magister at a discount as it was lost by UPS and returned to them scratched up. Cylinder is as expected when I got it. Paint has been touched up, good shape otherwise. Build quality looks good with pretty decent looking welds.


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 23, 2018)

Was pretty pleased until I pulled the port plugs out to have a peek inside...
VERY UNDERSIZE and not centered holes through the wall! Holes measure about .400".



Looks like this brand new cylinder will be getting tore apart so I can clamp it up in the mill to re-center and open the holes up to at least 3/4".

I will be contacting the manufacturer to see what they have to say about it. Their website says they manufacture to US specs... well the j1926 spec states the minimum through hole for this port size(sae12), is .609" and 3/4 nominal.


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## NSMaple1 (Jan 24, 2018)

Interesting....


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 24, 2018)

Alex from Magister quickly responded and said he would contact the engineer at the factory in Europe and that he was sorry for the inconvenience. He responded this afternoon saying that I was the first person to report this issue, and all the 5 inch cylinders in the warehouse here in the states were the same way. The engineer agreed that this was incorrect. Alex offered me 3 options right away. Full refund and return; Exchange when new cylinders were made correctly and shipped from Europe(3 months); Or partial refund and I keep the cylinder. I chose the route of partial refund and will fix myself. I felt that same day answers dealing with an over seas factory was pretty good. I still would have rather received a correctly manufactured cylinder from the start, but Magister offered prompt resolution.


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## dave_dj1 (Jan 25, 2018)

breymeyerfam said:


> Alex from Magister quickly responded and said he would contact the engineer at the factory in Europe and that he was sorry for the inconvenience. He responded this afternoon saying that I was the first person to report this issue, and all the 5 inch cylinders in the warehouse here in the states were the same way. The engineer agreed that this was incorrect. Alex offered me 3 options right away. Full refund and return; Exchange when new cylinders were made correctly and shipped from Europe(3 months); Or partial refund and I keep the cylinder. I chose the route of partial refund and will fix myself. I felt that same day answers dealing with an over seas factory was pretty good. I still would have rather received a correctly manufactured cylinder from the start, but Magister offered prompt resolution.



So what's the plan? Disassemble the cylinder and drill them out or dremmel tool them out?
Seems kind of odd that they would sell these with such a small hole for a larger port.


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## Yarz (Jan 25, 2018)

dave_dj1 said:


> So what's the plan? Disassemble the cylinder and drill them out or dremmel tool them out?



From above:



breymeyerfam said:


> Looks like this brand new cylinder will be getting tore apart so I can clamp it up in the mill to re-center and open the holes up to at least 3/4".



I'm interested to see the process, as I have a cylinder from another seller that has a similar issue.


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 25, 2018)

I will be disassembling the cylinder. You could just drill them out larger, but that would just follow where these holes are located, off center. I will clamp the cylinder in the mill and bore the holes to size centered in the fitting. If there is interest, I can create another thread documenting the disassembly, rework, and reassembly of this welded cylinder with a threaded end cap.


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## dave_dj1 (Jan 26, 2018)

breymeyerfam said:


> I will be disassembling the cylinder. You could just drill them out larger, but that would just follow where these holes are located, off center. I will clamp the cylinder in the mill and bore the holes to size centered in the fitting. If there is interest, I can create another thread documenting the disassembly, rework, and reassembly of this welded cylinder with a threaded end cap.



I for one would be interested in the process if you have time.


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## WoodTick007 (Jan 26, 2018)

dave_dj1 said:


> I for one would be interested in the process if you have time.


I would be interested. I curious to the quality of the internal components.


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## kevin j (Jan 26, 2018)

I would like to know what the rod seal is, if there is a rod wiper, what the piston seals are (lip or orings or solid band), and if there is a wear band on the piston. 
No particular reason, just like to know what technology is used at what price point in the consumer world. My background is all heavy duty mobile stuff.


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 26, 2018)

The cylinder is reworked. First off I removed the end cap by unthreading it. My spanner, wasn't big enough to get it loose, so I got out the "little" pipe wrench to pop it, then unthreaded with the spanner. Then pulled the rod and piston out.


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 27, 2018)

Set up on the mill with 5/8 end mill to put the holes where I want them. My sae12 fittings have an I.D. of .615", so I made the holes in the cylinder .625


The open end was straight forward. Put the holes in and chamfered.


The cap end would be tricky to do if you didn't have a mill. The end cap passes roughly 1/3 past the edge of my new hole. I milled down in past the bore roughly an inch to give the fluid a good flow path. Of course there was a square step left that I tapered using a regular 5/8 drill bit. Not the best way to do this, as I would have rather used a ball nose end mill, but I didn't have one in 5/8.
View attachment 628251




Finally I deburred, cleaned, and flushed. Reassembled in reverse order. Ready to continue fabbing the cylinder mounts


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 27, 2018)

kevin j said:


> I would like to know what the rod seal is, if there is a rod wiper, what the piston seals are (lip or orings or solid band), and if there is a wear band on the piston.



I have a re-pack set. I will take a picture of the rod seals. You can see the rest in the previous pics


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## WoodTick007 (Jan 27, 2018)

Is there a reason you did not open the hole even with the threads? Do you feel a handheld die grinder would work? What was/is the wall thickness of the cylinder .25"?


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 27, 2018)

WoodTick007 said:


> Is there a reason you did not open the hole even with the threads? Do you feel a handheld die grinder would work? What was/is the wall thickness of the cylinder .25"?



The wall thickness is .25

Reasons for not going larger on the size opening:
1. My sae12 fittings are only .615 I.D. and going much larger would not help since the fitting is the bottle neck now.
2. Piston/ glad cap design & rear port location limits size. The tail part of the piston bottoms on the gland cap and if I went much larger fluid would flow right into the side of the piston. Pic below shows this condition:


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## Kevin in Ohio (Jan 27, 2018)

For guys out there building stuff, there's another thing I'd suggest to watch for. When you get a new cylinder cycle it before you install. I have done this for years after getting burned. You can do it by turning the regulator down on you air hose with a hand held gun. SLOWLY apply air to let it move. reason is I've had several off shore cylinders that had rust on the inside of the bore from water getting in or condensation forming. Even worse is that now some cylinders are not even chromed. Most of the cheap jacks are doing this know. Any rust or pits will kill the seals quickly so do not accept them.


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 27, 2018)

breymeyerfam said:


> I have a re-pack set. I will take a picture of the rod seals. You can see the rest in the previous pics


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 30, 2018)

Over the last week or so, ups and fed-ex have been very frequent visitors! I now have all of the components to finish except hydraulic hoses. 

Worked on the cylinder mounts. Roughed out bushings on the lathe and welded to the plates. 


Bored bushing and plate to 1.520


Next step will be to finally cut down this beam to length and weld the mounts in place.


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## breymeyerfam (Jan 30, 2018)

Let's talk main cylinder pins. 1.5" diameter is what I'm needing. What's strong enough and what would y'all do. (Keep in mind I have bar stock on hand)
1. Plain bar stock.
2. Plain bar stock then case hardened.
3. Buy pins.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Jan 31, 2018)

You'll be fine with normal bar stock, that is what I used with no issues on a 5" cylinder.


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## breymeyerfam (Feb 11, 2018)

How wide outside of wheels is just right? I was planning on 66". I don't want to go too wide as i commonly use my UTV to pull the splitter and I was shooting for the same width. The lift just looks like it may be trying to pick up too far outside the wheelbase. The pic below for reference is not the final wheels I'm using and the offset is about an inch narrower than the final. 


Finally got the cylinder mounts welded in the pusher and the pin made for it. The rear mounts are mostly welded. Decided the axle placement. The axle will be 37" from the front of the wedge. Basically as close as I can get the tire to the lift...


I also got the hydraulic tank mounts fabbed and welded in this weekend. Forgot to snap a pic afterwards. Tires should be here this week, then I will get the axle welded in. Once the axle is welded, I will work on the bottom side getting the wedge adjust cylinder mounted and fab the pivot mechanism. Also planned for this coming week is getting the motor mounted. We'll see what I actually get accomplished though... I've been kind lazy the last couple weeks!


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## Jakers (Feb 12, 2018)

If you are worried about the lift being out farther than the axle, just offset the axle towards the lift side a bit. nobody said the splitter beam has to be centered perfectly on the axle


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## Preacher Mike (Feb 12, 2018)

I think you’ll be fine with the axle/lift as is.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 12, 2018)

If you want, you could make the axle adjustable so you have options. I used a heavy wagon axle that had it so I had options. I have it set out just narrower than what it pulling it so it tracks the same. Simple idea and design and you can use the same idea on other axle shapes.


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## breymeyerfam (Feb 14, 2018)

Pic of the tank mounted and the rear cylinder mount plated and gusseted.


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## breymeyerfam (Feb 17, 2018)

Axle mounted.


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## breymeyerfam (Feb 27, 2018)

Been sick for just over a week. Not much progress made in a while, but I did get back out in the shop tonight.
Engine mount:


Where I mounted the engine height wise, was going to put my pump inlet straight into the beam. So my options were to use an elbow on the suction or to re-drill my pump bracket so that it rotated the pump 30° CCW. Thats what i did. I set it up on the mill, swept for center, then drilled the pattern. As you can see in the last pic, the suction hose will go right under the beam to the tank with just a small arc in the hose.


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## breymeyerfam (Mar 3, 2018)

Valves are mostly in position.


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## breymeyerfam (Mar 4, 2018)

Wedge cylinder and pivot complete


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## breymeyerfam (Mar 17, 2018)

Been working on odds and ends. Got the receivers welded on each end so i can pull from either end. Got the log lift finished(maybe). Going to wait to see if I want to add plastic sheet to the upper part of the lift. I think I probably won't so that bark and what not can fall through. 


Fabbed up the out feed table using 1" 11ga square tube. I did deck it with the plastic.


I have the return filter and plumbing done. Valves are fully mounted. Waiting on what I hope to be the final purchase to arrive from surplus center. All the hydraulic hoses and a few more fittings. I'm hoping to at least have this thing ready for a test run by the end of next weekend.


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## breymeyerfam (Mar 18, 2018)

Here's the return filter setup.


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## dave_dj1 (Mar 19, 2018)

I like it! My next one is going to have the adjustable 4 way on it.


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## breymeyerfam (Mar 19, 2018)

Well It's not the cleanest hydraulic routing, but it should work. The only part I'm not real happy with, is the 45 out of the vavle then making a 225° loop to the front of the main cylinder. However, I couldn't come up with a better way with out using a hard 90 at the front of the cylinder. The hose is right at the minimum bend radius.


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## rancher2 (Mar 20, 2018)

Looks like you and surplus center have become friends?


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## breymeyerfam (Mar 20, 2018)

rancher2 said:


> Looks like you and surplus center have become friends?


2 orders from them. I think they have me for 6-700 bucks in this. I quickly went through my spend sheet on this project earlier today. As always, I'm over budget. I was aiming to be in the $1500-1800 range, but I'm about $2250 so far. I think all purchases have been made, but will still have sandblasting and a paint job.


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## Ted Jenkins (Mar 21, 2018)

Absolutely a very very nice build. Why no suspension? If a pipe fitting is welded to the tank with some pipe it often will crack, but you have it supported so may be fine for years. How many cords do you plan to run through it. I started with a standard slide on the top of the I Beam, but it wore so fast so welded an extra 1/2'' strap underneath to give more wear surface even though I keep it oiled all the time. I still have to unbolt the wear bars and replace or rebuild them every few years. I had to eliminate log lifter because it was slow and got in the way, but it depends on the type of wood processing. I started using a winch with a ramp that can be moved for continuous use or once in a while. Most 200 lb rounds can easily be rolled to the cradle on a ramp with out getting in the way. You will enjoy using it much more because you put it together. The Surplus Center has always provided every thing I have ever needed. Thanks


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## Ted Jenkins (Mar 21, 2018)

Absolutely a very very nice build. Why no suspension? If a pipe fitting is welded to the tank with some pipe it often will crack, but you have it supported so may be fine for years. How many cords do you plan to run through it. I started with a standard slide on the top of the I Beam, but it wore so fast so welded an extra 1/2'' strap underneath to give more wear surface even though I keep it oiled all the time. I still have to unbolt the wear bars and replace or rebuild them every few years. I had to eliminate log lifter because it was slow and got in the way, but it depends on the type of wood processing. I started using a winch with a ramp that can be moved for continuous use or once in a while. Most 200 lb rounds can easily be rolled to the cradle on a ramp with out getting in the way. You will enjoy using it much more because you put it together. The Surplus Center has always provided every thing I have ever needed. Thanks


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 22, 2018)

I guess the hoses were too short to avoid the 45's at all? just keep an eye on the temps the first few times to see where you are at and what the norm is for you.


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## breymeyerfam (Mar 22, 2018)

Ted Jenkins said:


> Why no suspension? How many cords do you plan to run through it.


No suspension due to the fact I rarely cut or split off my family property all within a mile from the house. I use 10-15 cord a year on a bad year, so if I use this the rest of my life, it shouldn't see more than a few hundred cord.



Kevin in Ohio said:


> I guess the hoses were too short to avoid the 45's at all? just keep an eye on the temps the first few times to see where you are at and what the norm is for you.


No, I figured the hose length with the 45° elbows in place. I added the 45° on the main cylinder mainly due to the fact that the one port is so close to the valve, I would have to had an excessively long hose right at the valve to keep the bend radius acceptable. And after adding the one 45° and the hose routed directly over the other port, the second 45° became necessary. I don't think that the 45°'s will restrict too much. I checked the calculations for each a 90° elbow and 45°, and the 45° was a much lower restriction. Actually a 45° is only 1/4 the head addition than a hard 90°. So my 2 45°'s should be half the restriction than 1 90°. But yes, I will be watching the temps. Worst case, I can add a return line cooler, but I doubt I will need it.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 22, 2018)

breymeyerfam said:


> No suspension due to the fact I rarely cut or split off my family property all within a mile from the house. I use 10-15 cord a year on a bad year, so if I use this the rest of my life, it shouldn't see more than a few hundred cord.
> 
> 
> No, I figured the hose length with the 45° elbows in place. I added the 45° on the main cylinder mainly due to the fact that the one port is so close to the valve, I would have to had an excessively long hose right at the valve to keep the bend radius acceptable. And after adding the one 45° and the hose routed directly over the other port, the second 45° became necessary. I don't think that the 45°'s will restrict too much. I checked the calculations for each a 90° elbow and 45°, and the 45° was a much lower restriction. Actually a 45° is only 1/4 the head addition than a hard 90°. So my 2 45°'s should be half the restriction than 1 90°. But yes, I will be watching the temps. Worst case, I can add a return line cooler, but I doubt I will need it.



I guess maybe the auto cycle is a little different? I had no issues with hitting the handle running them straight. I am running a bypass though with the 28 GPM pump.












My loops are a little longer but I've learned you don't want them distorted or flexed at the crimps as it'll lead to leaks over time.

On a side note, I have no suspension either and don't regret it. The tires take up bounce of the 2 tons and I didn't want it moving around while lifting/dragging stuff. Yours is looking good and coming together nicely.


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## rancher2 (Mar 23, 2018)

Breymeyerfarm I am lucky as surplus center is only 10 miles from me. Over the years I have purchased a lot of things from them my first Stihl chain saw came from them they were a dealer back then. I always enjoy a nice splitter build. Your going to have a nice machine that will give you years of service. Kept the pictures coming. You will enjoy the log lift.


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## breymeyerfam (Mar 23, 2018)

Well it's setting on its tires. Some things I found out: 20 gallons of hydraulic fluid isn't enough. Still not on the sight glass. Even with 1/4" hoses reducing flow to the lift and wedge height adjustment, it's not quite enough reduction. If you go full lever, the wedge will go up and down in under a second. The lift isn't quite as bad as it's probably usable with some finesse, but I will probably buy a pair of needle valves to put in each circuit. Engine runs smooth. Main cylinder valve is adjusted pretty much spot on @2000psi from Prince. And finally, my shop is a MESS! It needs a thorough cleaning.


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## Jakers (Mar 23, 2018)

Id recommend a pair of these flow control valves. Free flow in one direction and restricted flow in the other. Fully adjustable from 15gpm for the 1/2" ones, down to 0gpm.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brand...nce-WFC-800-In-Line-Flow-Control-9-7960-8.axd






There are other options with flow dividers but they would work best if the splitting valve was first in line and then the divider flowing to secondary valve and tank with the excess


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## breymeyerfam (Mar 24, 2018)

Jakers said:


> Id recommend a pair of these flow control valves. Free flow in one direction and restricted flow in the other. Fully adjustable from 15gpm for the 1/2" ones, down to 0gpm.
> https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brand...nce-WFC-800-In-Line-Flow-Control-9-7960-8.axd
> 
> 
> ...



Those wouldn't do what I need. I need flow restriction in both directions. A simple needle valve will do. Something like so: https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...-GPM-Prince-WNV-400-Needle-Valve-9-7961-4.axd


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## Jakers (Mar 24, 2018)

breymeyerfam said:


> Those wouldn't do what I need. I need flow restriction in both directions. A simple needle valve will do. Something like so: https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...-GPM-Prince-WNV-400-Needle-Valve-9-7961-4.axd


True. I guess I usually mount two of them at the valve with steel fittings to keep my pressures down in the hoses. If you blow a hose on the long side of the pressure with the needle valve you have free flow of the full pressure to make a bigger mess with more danger. With the ones I use the hoses never see over working load pressure and are restricted to flow so less oil escapes by the time my size 40 mitt can release the lever. I guess it just makes me feel better knowing there's not 2500psi running in my hoses every time I pull the lever


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## breymeyerfam (Mar 25, 2018)

Test run:


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## breymeyerfam (Mar 25, 2018)

Adjusted the valves upto 2600-2700psi. Worked through some walnut that I had chunked already. Had a few rounds of elm that went through the 4way with relatively little effort. (Vid of the elm) Temp was mid 40s out today and I ran it about 30-40 minutes. I shot the system in multiple places with my IR thermometer. The tank was 90-95° and the filter was 100°. Still have to mount the out feed tray and a few other odds and ends to wrap up, but this build is wrapping up. Get this coming winters' 10-15 cord worked through in the next month or so to make sure it works, and then tear it back down for sandblast and paint. Oh and pictures!


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## dave_dj1 (Mar 26, 2018)

Looks good! It's a great feeling having something you built from scratch perform as expected.


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## rancher2 (Mar 26, 2018)

Breymeyerfam Your last picture really drives home why I like the log lifts instead of a crane style lifts. The log lifts make a nice place to stage rounds. I have built them both ways and for our operation the log lift style works the best. By the time you get 10 to 15 cord threw it you will know if you have any weak points or want to change any thing before the final paint goes on.


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## breymeyerfam (Apr 1, 2018)

Today was test 2. I added some steel to fill the gaps in the lift so pieces can't get caught while splitting. Noticed that on test 1. 


Outfeed table is fully attached. Can slide right in and out with the lift of the pin in the slot.


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## breymeyerfam (Apr 1, 2018)

Lets talk about wedge edge material and hardness. Any of my previous wedges have always been mild steel. I've had the edges get a slight bend in them, but nothing that a ball peen hammer and a file wouldn't fix. Until today. Was working on some red oak and this happened:


So the question is, should I try to harden the edges of the 4 way? Cut the edges out and weld in some tool steel? Hard surfacing rod? Or, did I just luck upon some real hard twisted grain and forget it and see if it happens again? I generally try to position the chunks of wood so the any large knots or limbs go through the main wedge and not the wings of the 4way. Must have missed something for that to happen...


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## rancher2 (Apr 1, 2018)

You have found out what I dislike about multi wedges. If you have enough push you break or bend things. I have used grader blades that are harden but sometimes you break the steel it self or where it is welded on. I split a lot of hard wood locust and hedge I run a six and half inch cylinder with the relief set at 2800 psi I have a six way and normally only use it four way. Multi wedges just aren't good for big pieces of knotty hard wood we have in my area. I am running some wings I bought off ebay from a guy in PA on my six way and they are holding up good.


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## Jakers (Apr 1, 2018)

Regular A36 steel usually doesn't hold up real well for splitting wedges. Most on here use an AR400-450 or similar grade of steel. Sometimes the name Hardox is used but that is usually about AR400 so same thing just different name.

A splitter my dad built 40 some years ago, the wedge was made of 1.25" mild steel of some sort. He built up the edge with 6011 (ac rods) and then got his hands on some hard surfacing rods to work with his old ac only welder. Ran about 5 passes on the leading edge then killed 2 grinders sharpening it all down. When they finished the build they tested it out by splitting a few railroad ties... the hard way. Cut them right in half. The splitter is still splitting 20+ cords a year and the wedge has never bent or broken.

For 30 years it had a 6" cylinder on it. 10 years ago I swapped it to a 5" because a rebuild of the 6" was around $1000. The rod and piston were bad on it and a new ones would have to be custom built. The splitting wedge was 12" wide by 36" long. 18" high above the beam and bolted between two pieces of huge channel iron to make the beam. Had a flush to the beam support bolted in behind the wedge for extra backing.


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## CUCV (Apr 3, 2018)

Breymeyerfam very nice build! What are you running for a relief pressure on your valve? Racher2 is running 2800PSI. I just retuned the autocycle function on my TW5 valve this weekend and found the valve comes set at 2000psi. The 6 way wedged has not been very effective but now I see some room for improvement. What are other folks running for a relief pressure?


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## breymeyerfam (Apr 3, 2018)

CUCV said:


> Breymeyerfam very nice build! What are you running for a relief pressure on your valve? Racher2 is running 2800PSI. I just retuned the autocycle function on my TW5 valve this weekend and found the valve comes set at 2000psi. The 6 way wedged has not been very effective but now I see some room for improvement. What are other folks running for a relief pressure?



I am currently set at 2600psi, but will probably set to 2750psi max that my prince 3000 valve is capable of.


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## GM_Grimmy (Apr 6, 2018)

Mine is set at 2400. With a thin and sharp main wedge, that's more then enough pressure to split, and if it gets stuck, I get the saw out and make cut on top. I'd rather go easy on my equipment and not break anything, than crank the pressure up and bend/snap anything. My main wedge and 4 way as well as 6 way is all AR400. I've seen softer steel roll the edge just like the OP had on the 4 way. Might also not make it as sharp of an angle, as well as decrease the overall width of the 4 way.


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## breymeyerfam (Nov 28, 2021)

Well, after 3 and a half years, I finally got it painted. Few final notes after using it a few years. I should have used a heavier beam. I haven't bent this one, but it has flexed a time or two. The overall design is good and probably wouldnt change much structurally otherwise. When I decided on components, I ruled out an auto-cycle valve, as I thought it was unnecessary. If you are splitting with a helper feeding rounds, I tend to still agree. However, if you are solo, the auto-cycle would be VERY helpful. I will probably upgrade to one in the future.


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## breymeyerfam (Nov 28, 2021)

I did think of another addition that is a must.... A conveyor! 

Cause I sure as heck couldn't keep up throwing wood off it! Now I just load straight to the dump trailer.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Nov 28, 2021)

Very nice!


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