# Granberg Mini Mill



## excess650 (Apr 3, 2009)

I bought one of these over the winter, but just used it yesterday. The Mini Mill is amazing!  My thought was just to edge logs rather than having to turn them with the Alaskan(for squaring). What I found was that it cuts truly perpendicular with the top flat, and more quickly than expected. The two cants that I squared were 15" and 9" respectively, and were that dimension top to bottom and end to end within 1/16". Of course, it can only be as accurate from end to end as you are with placing your 2x6 guide. Sorry, no pics yesterday, but the Mini Mill is DEFINITELY recommended, and way more compact and handy than the Alaskan.


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## SilverBox (Apr 3, 2009)

I use mine to make the first 3 cuts to square up the log. Then I take off slabs with an Alaskan. Mine did not cut truly perpendicular when I first got it. I had to adjust the outrigger slightly to get it to cut square. I made a couple 12"x12" cants with it and it was off by about 1/2 inch, so the cants were 12" at the top and 11 1/2" at the bottom (I was making cedar fence posts so it really didn't matter much). I adjusted the mill about 1/16 of in an inch in the outrigger mount slots and then checked it with a big square. It cuts within an 1/8" now in a 12x12 cant, good enuf, most of the time its within a 1/16".


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## excess650 (Apr 3, 2009)

Did you not get the instuction sheet for the adjustment? Loosen the nuts on the side of the mini mill, press down firmly with guide on aluminum rail and offside on 2x6, and tighten the nuts. The holes on the side with the nuts is slotted, so is your adjustment. With the guide on the aluminum rail, and flat on the 2x6, it should be square. My supplementary instructions arrived last week.


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## stipes (Apr 3, 2009)

*Congrats!!*



excess650 said:


> I bought one of these over the winter, but just used it yesterday. The Mini Mill is amazing!  My thought was just to edge logs rather than having to turn them with the Alaskan(for squaring). What I found was that it cuts truly perpendicular with the top flat, and more quickly than expected. The two cants that I squared were 15" and 9" respectively, and were that dimension top to bottom and end to end within 1/16". Of course, it can only be as accurate from end to end as you are with placing your 2x6 guide. Sorry, no pics yesterday, but the Mini Mill is DEFINITELY recommended, and way more compact and handy than the Alaskan.



I enjoy the heck outta mine...Saved me alot of work a few weeks ago...I wonder why though,,I can make cuts faster than my Alaskan...


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## Adkpk (Apr 3, 2009)

Oh ya for the money it's a must have with an Alaskan.


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## BobL (Apr 3, 2009)

stipes said:


> I enjoy the heck outta mine...Saved me alot of work a few weeks ago...I wonder why though,,I can make cuts faster than my Alaskan...



If you are using it to square the log you will be cutting a lot of bark and sapwood which is softer than the rest.


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## czeigler (Apr 3, 2009)

excess650 said:


> I bought one of these over the winter, but just used it yesterday. The Mini Mill is amazing!  My thought was just to edge logs rather than having to turn them with the Alaskan(for squaring). What I found was that it cuts truly perpendicular with the top flat, and more quickly than expected. The two cants that I squared were 15" and 9" respectively, and were that dimension top to bottom and end to end within 1/16". Of course, it can only be as accurate from end to end as you are with placing your 2x6 guide. Sorry, no pics yesterday, but the Mini Mill is DEFINITELY recommended, and way more compact and handy than the Alaskan.



Next time we get together I'll make sure to bring my camera also.


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## excess650 (Apr 3, 2009)

I just ordered my bandmill today..:jawdrop:...I need a beer.


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## czeigler (Apr 3, 2009)

excess650 said:


> I just ordered my bandmill today..:jawdrop:...I need a beer.



I bet, next time we'll have to save some time after the work is done for a few!


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## Rockfarmer (Apr 3, 2009)

excess650 said:


> Did you not get the instuction sheet for the adjustment? Loosen the nuts on the side of the mini mill, press down firmly with guide on aluminum rail and offside on 2x6, and tighten the nuts. The holes on the side with the nuts is slotted, so is your adjustment. With the guide on the aluminum rail, and flat on the 2x6, it should be square. My supplementary instructions arrived last week.



Yep, I did too. I was pretty impressed that the company sent these out. Great customer service!


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## Adkpk (Apr 3, 2009)

excess650 said:


> I just ordered my bandmill today..:jawdrop:...I need a beer.



What did you get? I almost bought one this week too but it got sold out from under me.


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## excess650 (Apr 4, 2009)

Adkpk said:


> What did you get? I almost bought one this week too but it got sold out from under me.



Norwood Lumbermate 2000 23hp with most of the options. I'll pick it up Wednesday or Thursday depending upon the weather.


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## madrone (Apr 16, 2009)

Could someone please explain in detail how to make the Mini Mill cut square to the top cut and 2x6? 
I've resorted to putting a piece of thin rope under the 2x6, just under the guide rail to raise the saw side. Until this, the saw would toe in and the cant would be thicker on the top than the bottom by at least 1/2 inch.

I tried loosening the nuts on the side as explained above but this only seems to raise the guide that rides on the 2x6, and make the saw toe in more.

Thanks in advance,
Mark


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## BobL (Apr 16, 2009)

madrone said:


> Could someone please explain in detail how to make the Mini Mill cut square to the top cut and 2x6?
> I've resorted to putting a piece of thin rope under the 2x6, just under the guide rail to raise the saw side. Until this, the saw would toe in and the cant would be thicker on the top than the bottom by at least 1/2 inch.
> 
> I tried loosening the nuts on the side as explained above but this only seems to raise the guide that rides on the 2x6, and make the saw toe in more.
> ...



Sorry, I can't answer your question but I could see this was an immediate problem when I looked at it and why my mini-mill design directly addressess this issue in such an exaggerated way.


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## excess650 (Apr 16, 2009)

madrone said:


> Could someone please explain in detail how to make the Mini Mill cut square to the top cut and 2x6?
> I've resorted to putting a piece of thin rope under the 2x6, just under the guide rail to raise the saw side. Until this, the saw would toe in and the cant would be thicker on the top than the bottom by at least 1/2 inch.
> 
> I tried loosening the nuts on the side as explained above but this only seems to raise the guide that rides on the 2x6, and make the saw toe in more.
> ...



Are you adjusting the fixture alone, or with chainsaw and bar in place? I suppose its possible that the slots aren't long enough(or off location) for you to achieve a square cut. If that is the case, just elongate the slots with a round file.

You know which side is low, so the adjustment should be easy. If necessary, you could clamp a bar in the mill and use a square as a visual reference while adjusting.


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## madrone (Apr 16, 2009)

excess650 said:


> Are you adjusting the fixture alone, or with chainsaw and bar in place? I suppose its possible that the slots aren't long enough(or off location) for you to achieve a square cut. If that is the case, just elongate the slots with a round file.
> 
> You know which side is low, so the adjustment should be easy. If necessary, you could clamp a bar in the mill and use a square as a visual reference while adjusting.



Thanks excess, I was hesitant to alter the mill but have gotten frustrated to the point that it's most likely worth it. It's always encouraging to hear someone say, 'its easy, just do it'.

As far as your mill Bob, I would have gladly paid you a pretty penny to make me one of those. lol. That thing is a real beauty.


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