# Axe recommendations please



## BrantSFGDS (Dec 12, 2016)

Hi all! I'm in the market for an axe and would like some input. I've been cutting trees for firewood for several years now but have only used saws and splitters. I haven't touched an axe since I was a kid. I want to add an axe to my arsenal but research has shown me that there are way too many options for me to figure out. I want the best axe I can get for falling ash trees in the 15-20 inch diameter range, nothing frozen. Maybe some other assorted hardwoods but mainly ash. I may buck a few but no splitting. I like the Autine and Tuatahi axes but they are probably overkill for my needs. I want something that eats through a tree! What say?


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## madhatte (Dec 13, 2016)

Go to a swap meet. Find a nice old Plumb or Kelly that suits your fancy for $10-25. Knock off the rough edges. Use it some. Lather, rinse, repeat. Next thing you know you've got 25 axes. Don't ask me how I know that.


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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 13, 2016)

Yeah, that's what I'm trying to avoid, lol. I'm in that situation with saws already. I just want one axe for falling, even a race axe that's suitable for hardwood will do but I don't think I need to go that crazy.


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## madhatte (Dec 13, 2016)

Good luck there. Axes are great fun and cheap to collect.


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## northmanlogging (Dec 13, 2016)

Council Tools 4-5# rafting pattern with desired handle length, longer makes a harder swing, shorter is easier to carry.

Spend 10 minutes with a stone, learn to swing around a 45deg angle, and you'll be getting firewood chunks with every other swing.

Learn to sharpen it correctly and it will last all day in tough wood. Don't be using no grinders on em, file and stones only, files for the big dings, stones to shave hair, shouldn't be a straight angle, more of a curve, makes a stronger edge, takes a little practice but worth it.

Councils are right around $40-50, made in USA, available at baileys (a fine channel sponsor) or any saw shop worth the name.

Failing that, Gerber makes some good stuff, if you like plastic handles


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## big hank (Dec 14, 2016)

It sounds like you want a China axe from tuatahi. I have one and it's a good practice axe for racing


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## TN woodcutter (Dec 15, 2016)

Oh, that's nothing to break the bank over, and you certainly don't need an Autine or a Tuatahi. I'd find a Collins, or possibly a Plumb axe head, and restore it. The whole thing would take about an hour, and can be easily done with basic hand tools. If you want, I can PM you my go to Ebay store (I have absolutely no affiliation with the seller-I'm just a happy customer). Be careful, though-axe's are just as addicting, if not more so, than chainsaws. You'll find yourself with about eight in a few months if you're not careful


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## tree stump (Dec 15, 2016)

I must have 20 axes now, looking for a Black Raven Axe, When I was a kid I used and axe for notching and limbing, now I use a saw, in the old days it didn't cost much to timber, just a good axe and a bucksaw or a good crosscut and a couple of files, We used to skid wood by hand with a dray and use pulp wood hooks kinda miss those days, stay in a tar paper camp in the woodses and the old-timers were a good bunch of guys (when sober) Had one drink all the aftershave in the camp, he laid in bed for 3 days, we just thought he was sick. the pulpwood hooks we used were blacksmith made, they used old rasps for trimming horses hooves to make them I have 4 of them, they are works of art


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## tree stump (Dec 15, 2016)

The axes you buy now are nothing but junk, it's even hard to buy a good axe handle, bought one and when I seated the handle by tapping it on the floor it split halfway up the handle like the other guys said go to a flea market and get an old used one, they are the best


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## tree stump (Dec 15, 2016)

Really angered me once, my uncle took one of my axes and put it on a grinder, ruined a good axe, I use a file and drawfile the axe


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## TN woodcutter (Dec 15, 2016)

Well, I wouldn't say all of the modern ones are junk. Our Scandinavian friends our putting out some good stuff. It just won't come cheap, which is why I recommended a hand-hung, restored axe.


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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 15, 2016)

Thanks for the input guys. Anybody have an opinion on Helko axes? Helko has one called the Expedition that's basically an American Felling axe and they have a timber sports practice axe that looks interesting. The Council Velvicut Felling axe looks decent as well, just maybe not finished as well. Any opinions on those three?


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## northmanlogging (Dec 15, 2016)

the council is just a "polished" production version with a $100 price tag.


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## madhatte (Dec 15, 2016)

I'm serious about recommending the old stuff. It's often shockingly cheap -- yard sales, estate sales, secondhand stores, scrapyards, your neighbor's garage -- and is almost without exception better quality than current production. It was noted above that current handles are often of poor quality. Well, it's not too much work to reshape a baseball bat of a junk handle into something really nice if you don't mind taking a bit of time. It's like anything else -- it's worth what you put into it.


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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 16, 2016)

Thanks Mad! I know I'm probably destined to have a truck full of axes before this is all over. I want to get the best axe I can get right now and I'll worry about putting together a vintage axe later when I learn more about what's good and what's not. I think I'm going to be sending you some messages for advice on the subject.


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## bitzer (Dec 16, 2016)

ReggieT said:


> *X27 Super Splitting Axe*


Did you read what they guy is looking for? You ever chop a face out with a splitting axe?


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## bitzer (Dec 16, 2016)

tree stump said:


> I must have 20 axes now, looking for a Black Raven Axe, When I was a kid I used and axe for notching and limbing, now I use a saw, in the old days it didn't cost much to timber, just a good axe and a bucksaw or a good crosscut and a couple of files, We used to skid wood by hand with a dray and use pulp wood hooks kinda miss those days, stay in a tar paper camp in the woodses and the old-timers were a good bunch of guys (when sober) Had one drink all the aftershave in the camp, he laid in bed for 3 days, we just thought he was sick. the pulpwood hooks we used were blacksmith made, they used old rasps for trimming horses hooves to make them I have 4 of them, they are works of art


If you don't mind me asking how old are you? When you started talking about tar paper shacks and blacksmiths I believe that era ended sometime in the thirties. Maybe into the forties.


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## madhatte (Dec 16, 2016)

BrantSFGDS said:


> I think I'm going to be sending you some messages for advice on the subject.



Have at ye! My co-worker and I have been making our own handles now for just a couple of weeks and are astounded at how long it took us to get around to trying it. Bad handles are not going to be a thing that we tolerate any more. I just ripped boards for a dozen blanks out of a blowdown ash this Monday and there's still probably 20 or more handles left in that stem. I rough them on my bandsaw, refine the shape with a drawknife, finish the shape with a rasp, and then sand to comfort and seal with boiled linseed oil. From log to handle is maybe 2 hours if I'm puttering around drinking coffee and listening to music. This is surprisingly easy.


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## hardpan (Dec 16, 2016)

I don't remember ever coming across a "straight vs curved" axe handle discussion here. I found an old True Temper Flint Edge (I think Kelly Works) about a year ago in good shape and hung a straight hickory handle in it but I have not even swung it yet, hanging on the wall. Any love here for the long straight handles?


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## madhatte (Dec 16, 2016)

For wedge-beaters, yes. For choppers, no.


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## northmanlogging (Dec 16, 2016)

If ya plan on using both sides (which technically you souldn't on a single bit axe) then a straight handle works.

But realistically a curved handle lends itself to a more powerful swing, cause yer using less strength to hang onto the damn thing and focusing on swinging


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## madhatte (Dec 16, 2016)

Also a curved handle puts the bit ahead of your swing, so it makes it harder to wuss out and pull the punch. All around better for cutting.


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## ArtB (Dec 16, 2016)

I'll show you mine if you show yours?

Here are a few handy in the basement, a few dozen in garage sheds, at the cabin, and at least one in each car and truck.

My best handles are from shagbark hickory from about 30 YO from what appear to be 2 or 3 inch dia 'saplings' taken in the spring from Illinois creek bottoms, nice dense growth rings. Hauled a few dozen back to the PNW a number of times when back to IL for visits. 

All the heads the photo are from garage sales except the broad ax which was in an antique store. Had been used as a wedge and the eye pounded shut, had to re-forge the eye, but only paid $5 for it.

I use a 7" angle grinder to sharpen old axes, do the grinding under a steady flow of water from garden hose.


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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 16, 2016)

Well, I ordered a Helko Tasmanian Timbersport axe today. I'll post a review of it once I have it in hand and get to swing it some. I think it will suit my needs well. I really like their Expedition (Felling axe) as well but it's even bigger than the one I ordered. I may try to restore something and duplicate it if the practice axe isn't big enough, or just for giggles.


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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 16, 2016)

madhatte said:


> Have at ye! My co-worker and I have been making our own handles now for just a couple of weeks and are astounded at how long it took us to get around to trying it. Bad handles are not going to be a thing that we tolerate any more. I just ripped boards for a dozen blanks out of a blowdown ash this Monday and there's still probably 20 or more handles left in that stem. I rough them on my bandsaw, refine the shape with a drawknife, finish the shape with a rasp, and then sand to comfort and seal with boiled linseed oil. From log to handle is maybe 2 hours if I'm puttering around drinking coffee and listening to music. This is surprisingly easy.


Need any more ash trees? We got 40 acres of the things we're trying to knock down before they rot.


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## madhatte (Dec 17, 2016)

BrantSFGDS said:


> Need any more ash trees? We got 40 acres of the things we're trying to knock down before they rot.



Our ashes are scarce but we do find them occasionally. Here's what this handle looked like roughed on the bandsaw, and then when shaped before hanging the head. I'll post a pic later when it's done.


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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 17, 2016)

We'll see how things go with this new axe. The handle that's on it is 31" but the replacement handle is the same as on the Felling axe and it's 35 or 36. The point is, they offer different handles for this thing. I'm a rookie with an axe so I don't know what I like yet, but if I need a longer haft for this thing you might be getting a project! I'm excited about this axe, I hope it performs the way I think it should. As far as vintage axes, what do you like for a felling axe and do you have a preference for splitting heads?


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## madhatte (Dec 17, 2016)

The axe I split with the most is an ugly old no-name double-bit that kicked around my office for nobody knows how long. It's pitted and worn and there are no marks remaining to tell who made it. I think it was originally a Western pattern but it's so chewed up that that may be wishful thinking. It did not want to be handled, really, but I did it anyway -- the eye was dented badly enough that it was pretty tough to get a handle to stay put. I did clean up both edges a bit so that they were at least parallel corner-to-corner. This axe sits on my front porch with a no-name pickaroon and a slab I ripped out of a blowdown fir for a splitting surface. Neither edge is sharp. It splits like a dream. 

My favorite felling tool is a chainsaw. I'm no Luddite. 

My favorite axe for cutting is a 50's-era Plumb double-bit cruiser that I found in our warehouse. It sits under the bench seat in my work rig. I have several axes that are prettier or less worn and which would easily command bigger eBay dollars but this thing is just nice. Every time I find a log across a road, the decision I have to make is "PPE up?" If yes, I gotta gas/oil the saw, get into chaps, find earplugs, all that. If it's small enough and under little enough tension that I can avoid that, safely, I'll trade the extra effort of an axe for the extra effort of getting geared up for one or two cuts. Similarly, if I expect more blowdowns and I'm already geared up, I won't take anything off. My truck is pretty dusty. 

I am always ready/willing to buy whatever axe catches my fancy. If it's $10 or less and I recognize the name and it's not totally worn out, I'll probably buy it without question. If it costs more than $20, I'll want to think about how much work it will take to bring it to my meager standards, and what I will use it for. If it's more than $50 It better have a super-cool story or be in perfect condition. I passed on a very nice-looking Puget Sound pattern falling axe for $50 yesterday because it was pitted enough to obscure the maker's name, it had no handle, and the temper lines were no longer visible. I bought a similar axe just a few months earlier for $10 and have yet to hang it on a handle. I surely don't need another of the same thing which also comes with regret. 

Long/short -- buy lots of inexpensive old axes. They'll mostly lack handles. Learn to hang them. Learn to use them. Find out what it is that you like. Buy more of that.


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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 17, 2016)

It seems the Dayton and Jersey patterns are the most common around here for falling/chopping. I'm intrigued by the Jersey but I've never used one so I don't know how they perform on our local flora.


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## 1270d (Dec 17, 2016)

bitzer said:


> If you don't mind me asking how old are you? When you started talking about tar paper shacks and blacksmiths I believe that era ended sometime in the thirties. Maybe into the forties.



There were still guys doing the tar paper shack thing in the sixties and seventies here. And limbing with axes and loading by hand. Be curious to hear more stories from tree stump.


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## bitzer (Dec 17, 2016)

1270d said:


> There were still guys doing the tar paper shack thing in the sixties and seventies here. And limbing with axes and loading by hand. Be curious to hear more stories from tree stump.


Yeah I was going through some of my books last night and was looking for some dates. I know for sure the fifties and now that you say that I don't doubt it. I think the last major river run here was in the late thirties. I'd love to hear some stories too.


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## 1270d (Dec 17, 2016)

I'm not sure when the last river driving was done here. There we guys running logging camps even later, but more mechanized, hauling the shacks from job to job with log trucks etc.

As a side note on how times have changed, my grandfather was a logger who passed away in 1967. His yearly production volumes was approximately the same as what we do in a good week.


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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 17, 2016)

I don't know squat about logging on a large scale or the glory days of the lumberjack, however, I deer hunt close to this little town in Michigan by the name of Luther. Luther has what's called "Luther Logging Days" to celebrate the logging industry they once had and judging by the equipment they have decorating everything in town I'd say they were logging well up past when I was born in 72.


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## ArtB (Dec 18, 2016)

Am just a 'hobby logger', but still like to just trim with an axe, as can enjoy the sound of the bite. 

re: old tarpaper...reminded me of a trip to the upper Gaspe in the early 90's, there was still an operating log flume in operation. Only flume I have ever seen still operating (other than Disneyland <G>).

Too poor back in the '50s to own a chain saw, recall felling hickory, oak, and walnut in IL with crosscut saw and ax. 
A neighbor near here still lived in tarpaper shack he built in the 30's until the late 80's, when he died the heirs sold his 5 acres for $3 MIL or so, shopping center there now.


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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 18, 2016)

You know, I've hunted out of tarpaper shacks in Michigan. I never thought much about them until now, I bet they're remnants from the logging days. They were all on property that had sections that had been logged decades ago and the land owners maintained the shacks for deer hunting. They call them shantys up there.


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## bitzer (Dec 18, 2016)

BrantSFGDS said:


> You know, I've hunted out of tarpaper shacks in Michigan. I never thought much about them until now, I bet they're remnants from the logging days. They were all on property that had sections that had been logged decades ago and the land owners maintained the shacks for deer hunting. They call them shantys up there.


Lumberjacks were called "shanty boys" before they were called lumberjacks


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## milkman (Dec 18, 2016)

BrantSFGDS said:


> I don't know squat about logging on a large scale or the glory days of the lumberjack, however, I deer hunt close to this little town in Michigan by the name of Luther. Luther has what's called "Luther Logging Days" to celebrate the logging industry they once had and judging by the equipment they have decorating everything in town I'd say they were logging well up past when I was born in 72.




I live in the country and there is a little town about 2 miles from me that is called Mooleyville. I remember when it had a couple of stores and a Post Office, not much left there now. I was talking to the lady that used to be the Post Mistress and she told me the story of how the town got it's name. According to her story, the town sprang up as a sawmill town because of all the timber around. The sawmill was from Michigan made by the Mooley Saw Company, possibly a mutation of the Muley Saw, hence the town of Mooleyville. Don't know if it's a true story, but she made it sound interesting.


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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 18, 2016)

madhatte said:


> The axe I split with the most is an ugly old no-name double-bit that kicked around my office for nobody knows how long. It's pitted and worn and there are no marks remaining to tell who made it. I think it was originally a Western pattern but it's so chewed up that that may be wishful thinking. It did not want to be handled, really, but I did it anyway -- the eye was dented badly enough that it was pretty tough to get a handle to stay put. I did clean up both edges a bit so that they were at least parallel corner-to-corner. This axe sits on my front porch with a no-name pickaroon and a slab I ripped out of a blowdown fir for a splitting surface. Neither edge is sharp. It splits like a dream.
> 
> My favorite felling tool is a chainsaw. I'm no Luddite.
> 
> ...


I don't know much about vintage axes. Do you have particular brands you look for? I may pick up an old head for giggles but I'm not sure what names I should search for. Plumb and Kelly seem to come up a lot but those are the only two I've heard of.


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## madhatte (Dec 18, 2016)

Plumb, Kelly/True Temper, Collins, Vaughan, Hults Bruks, Gransfors Bruks, Norlund, Warren/Sager, Marshall Wells. There were hundreds of names back in the day; those are a few of the more common.


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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 19, 2016)

What seems to be the best pattern for hardwood, the Dayton?


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## hardpan (Dec 19, 2016)

ArtB said:


> Am just a 'hobby logger', but still like to just trim with an axe, as can enjoy the sound of the bite.
> 
> re: old tarpaper...reminded me of a trip to the upper Gaspe in the early 90's, there was still an operating log flume in operation. Only flume I have ever seen still operating (other than Disneyland <G>).
> 
> ...



Judging by the partial sample shown of your axe collection, may I guess you are a fan of the double bit. I only have one double bit, a cheap no-name I bought about 25 years ago and I worked it to good edges. I must say for pure cutting it is better than my single bits of equal sharpness. Maybe the single bit was only used when there was a need to also drive something. What say you? I have seen some old double bits with one sharp edge and one more blunt edge. I assumed one was for cutting and one was for splitting?


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## madhatte (Dec 19, 2016)

BrantSFGDS said:


> What seems to be the best pattern for hardwood, the Dayton?



Preference seems to be regional. Dayton is common here, but elsewhere patterns like Jersey are more common.


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## milkman (Dec 19, 2016)

hardpan said:


> Judging by the partial sample shown of your axe collection, may I guess you are a fan of the double bit. I only have one double bit, a cheap no-name I bought about 25 years ago and I worked it to good edges. I must say for pure cutting it is better than my single bits of equal sharpness. Maybe the single bit was only used when there was a need to also drive something. What say you? I have seen some old double bits with *one sharp edge and one more blunt edge*. I assumed one was for cutting and one was for splitting?



Same when I was growing up, only had one axe and it was a double bit, one side would shave the other side not. If there was a possibility of hitting a rock or the ground, better be using the dull side or dad would have a fit.
Edit: When splitting with the axe, we always used a twist right before hitting the wood to prevent the axe from going through and hit the dirt.


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## svk (Dec 19, 2016)

madhatte said:


> Go to a swap meet. Find a nice old Plumb or Kelly that suits your fancy for $10-25. Knock off the rough edges. Use it some. Lather, rinse, repeat. Next thing you know you've got 25 axes. Don't ask me how I know that.


This is good advice.

Otherwise if you want new: 

If you want an inexpensive wood handled axe that works get a Collins as a first choice or a Council as a second. Council quality has increased in the last year, they were putting out some pretty shoddy handles before that which would often break on the first use.

For a high end axe the Hults Bruk is the best performing _wood handled_ chopping tool I have used.

If you want a cheap tool that really works well get a Fiskars "chopping axe". It is all black and has a longer handle than the X-15 but is otherwise identical. This is the best performing chopping tool that I have ever used.


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## old guy (Dec 19, 2016)

1270d said:


> There were still guys doing the tar paper shack thing in the sixties and seventies here. And limbing with axes and loading by hand. Be curious to hear more stories from tree stump.


I trapped beaver around Moose Junction which is about 30 miles south of Superior Wis. in 1961 & 1963. We stayed in a tarpaper shack behind the Moose Junction bar. Two miles up the Spruce river north of the Moose rd. Was the remains of an old logging camp, behind one of the dirt foundations was a pile off rusting carnation milk cans, each had been opened by the corner of an axe sunk in the top.


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## bitzer (Dec 19, 2016)

Sharp side is for chopping the face out. Dull side is for limbing.


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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 19, 2016)

madhatte said:


> Preference seems to be regional. Dayton is common here, but elsewhere patterns like Jersey are more common.


Check these relics out! These were my Granddad's. They're in terrible shape, especially the single bit, but I think I have a couple projects. I was talking to my Dad about axes and he told me he still had these. I remember actually using both as a kid but I had no idea they were still around. I'll do the metal work, let me know if you're interested in rehanging them and what it would cost.


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## svk (Dec 19, 2016)

BrantSFGDS said:


> View attachment 544661
> View attachment 544660
> View attachment 544659
> View attachment 544657
> ...


Good stuff. I have several axes from my dad and grandpa, and even one from my great grandparents. 

Handles should run you 9-12 bucks a piece. If you can't find any locally check with House Handle online.

PS I just bought some Don't Tread on Me stickers too!


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## madhatte (Dec 19, 2016)

BrantSFGDS said:


> I'll do the metal work, let me know if you're interested in rehanging them and what it would cost.



Those will never be pretty again, but they'll cut just fine, pitting and all. The poll on the single-bit should clean up pretty well. 

I've got plenty to hang already, but I bet you can figure it out yourself. It's really quite satisfying to work with a tool you've repaired yourself. Just be picky about the grain in the handle. Discard anything more than about 20 degrees off parallel to the direction of striking force. If one store doesn't have any good handles, look for another, or order from somebody like House. All you need is a rasp, a mallet, and some time. It's worth it.


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## hardpan (Dec 20, 2016)

BrantSFGDS said:


> View attachment 544661
> View attachment 544660
> View attachment 544659
> View attachment 544657
> ...



It may sound silly and we all vary on how sentimental we are but don't you wish those axes could talk?


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## ArtB (Dec 20, 2016)

Since we are on old axes, anyone know who made the axes for CCC?

Have a few hatchets marked CCC, assumed to mean Civilian Conservation Corps. No other markings. Most are mediocre quality, not sure if any I have are with original handles.


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## madhatte (Dec 20, 2016)

I have one stamped both CCC and SCS (Soil Conservation Society). This one is a Kelly Works pulaski. If your CCC hatchet was a FSS (Federal Supply System) purchase, it was probably grabbed right out of a cache and stamped locally. It could have originally had a paper label, which was common back in the day, which would leave no permanent marks. It was unlikely a no-name originally, as back in the day manufacturers were very proud of their work. Odds are that it was from one of the big manufacturers already listed in this thread.


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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 20, 2016)

Funny you should mention that Art, my Granddad was a mine foreman and he was also involved with CCC when they cut the roads through mountains where I'm from. I think the single bit pictured is too new to have been involved in that but the double bit could very well have been used during that time. Granddad was also over something called the Happy Pappy program which, as I understand it, was kind of a local program that put men to work for some kind of compensation. Kind of like welfare you had to work for I guess.


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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 23, 2016)

Here she is, all shiny and new!


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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 23, 2016)




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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 23, 2016)




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## BrantSFGDS (Dec 24, 2016)

I can't wait to tear into a tree!


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## Deleted member 110241 (Dec 28, 2016)

All these pics of axes has gotten me to think about an axe I found 7 years ago, any information of it is welcome!
It's a small axe stamped with Sheffield Hunter and a #2, probably the weight of it?
The head is 15cm (about 6"?) long.


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## BrantSFGDS (Jan 2, 2017)

Ok, review time! You can see by the pictures above that this axe did not come with an edge suitable for American hardwood, however, I decided I would try it out of the box just for the sake of fairness. It was fairly sharp and probably would have been fine for splitting but that's not what I bought this axe for. I took it out and tried it on a 10 or 12 inch dead ash. Probably not the smartest thing I've ever done, lol! I got about an inch and a half into it and it just flat stopped cutting.
I took it to the bench and spent 4 hours filing and stoning the edge to 20 degrees and about a half inch back. I got it shaving sharp and went back after the ash. Success! I don't know if they make trees harder than seasoned ash, but I hope I never have to chop one! Talk about tough! It took probably an hour to drop the tree. The axe performed well and the edge remained sharp. One side of the tree was harder than the other, which I thought was odd. Anyway, I suspect that a live tree would be easy work compared to this ash.
On a side note, I tried splitting some of this same ash and the axe just blew through it like nothing. I don't intend to split with it but it's nice to know it works well for the task.
I think the axe is great, the only negatives are the amount of work it took to put a proper edge on it and the fact that the handle has a laquer finish instead of linseed oil. In all fairness, it's not a true felling axe so I guess the edge should have been expected. I'd be curious to know what the edge on their felling axe looks like out of the box.


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## Bwildered (Jan 3, 2017)

Markus said:


> All these pics of axes has gotten me to think about an axe I found 7 years ago, any information of it is welcome!
> It's a small axe stamped with Sheffield Hunter and a #2, probably the weight of it?
> The head is 15cm (about 6"?) long.
> View attachment 546529
> ...


That looks like a joinery hatchet, they were used for removing the bulk of the timber before carving say a stair elephants foot or curved handrail termination


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## hardpan (Jan 3, 2017)

That Helko is a fine looking axe. It appears to have an extra wide cutting face which would really shine in wood that was softer and green. Ash was commonly used for baseball bats, maybe still is. Even MLB power hitters have a hard time denting that ash except when they throw a temper tantrum and beat on other surrounding objects, LOL. You will find a much better grade of steel and factory grind in a quality cutting tool so fine tuning the edge will actually be easier that the cheaper ones. Good steel is not a new innovation and the Germans or Swedes have quite a reputation in that field so folks enjoy collecting their axes and many of the old ones made here in the US. Have fun with it.


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## BrantSFGDS (Jan 3, 2017)

I sent a review to the USA rep at Helko and he told me that the edge on that particular axe comes the way it does because they figure the owner will want to finish the edge to their own specs for whatever they intend to do with it. I did not know that going in but it's no big deal, I know how to run a file, lol! He also said that is the only axe they make that has lacquer on the handle but they would be changing that to linseed oil. I almost bought the Expedition felling axe, and I still may. Those are a little closer to being usable out of the box plus they're longer and heavier. I have to say the steel is fantastic! Anything that holds an edge after the beating I put on it has to be good!


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## 2dogs (Jan 3, 2017)

You guys might want to look into Axe Junkies on facebook.


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## Deleted member 110241 (Jan 4, 2017)

Bwildered said:


> That looks like a joinery hatchet, they were used for removing the bulk of the timber before carving say a stair elephants foot or curved handrail termination



Thanks! That's what my dad said too, but couldn't find any information on it until you gave me the english word for it. I have found out that this type of axe head is called the Kent Pattern and that my hatchet probably is made of C T Skelton & Co in Sheffield.


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