# Lengthy, complete review of Harbor Freight 9hp 30ton hor/vert splitter



## cityevader (Oct 18, 2008)

NOTE: In the last week, the exact model that I have is no longer for sale online, picture below slightly different being horizontal only model, and mine has the Robin Subaru 9hp, not the "incon" engine pictured.








The following review will seem biased negatively because, well, I feel negatively about it!

The first quality indicator was during assembly. The wheel bearing races were tack welded in three spots to the rim itself. No long hauls for this! The spindles were "machined" freehand by a blind person. Seriously. Not a single-diameter-end-to-end turning, rather, many many lips and diameter changes. The wheels had to be hammered extensively to bottom out, and even then were not against the shoulder, merely wedged on. No towing for real with this!

Minor issue but a pain. The retaining "hitch pin" holes fit poorly, takes much effort to align, and then the pins are too short/holes drilled 90 degrees off, so there is only 1/4" worth of depth were you're able to actually slide in the hairpin clip. Easy fix to drill new hairpin hole. Not so easy for the mounting holes for pins.

I continued anyway. First issue I noted was at the ram-mounted valve. Bent/cracked leaking, couldn't tell which part, so ordered new union, valve, and steel line to extend port on ram. Union was 8 weeks away, so bought one out of pocket. Got the new valve and 5 lines(invoice showed 1 line only). Installed union and valve, but the new lines were all 1/2" too short, every one of them. Had to re-use old line at a very skewed angle with the flair barely contacting, but it didn't immediately leak.

The lay-out is my number one complaint. With my ankle against the axle, my calf is against the very hot pump, and I'm still reaching off-balanced just to reach the valve. Very dangerous, constant tripping over the machine and tires. And it's so low (I'm 5'11") my back hurts terribly within 10 minutes. Put the wheels under car ramps to gain 10" and now perfect. Planning to relocate valve closer to end of ram onto the "release cage" that knocks off stuck wood when cyl retracted (requiring all new plumbing).

Number two complaint from burning calf on pump, and with A.S. feedback, I find it gets way too hot. The ram temp(multiple thermometers) hits 180*F after 45 minutes of splitting).

An hour into use...what's that smell? Oil? Na, couldn't be. Nooo, it IS. Almost a minute elapsed before shutting her down. The engine oil drain plug had fallen out (unsure if ran long enough for long-term damage). Discovered that even though item description said equipped with low-oil shutdown, it wasn't. I had merely assuming that the dangling wires were for electric start or battery charging or something, not for "optional" level switch.

After a another hour of use the return line at the valve blew off, very rapidly coating my new woodpile completely with Mercon V. I deal with hose clamps evryday at work (mechanic) and understand proper torquing, but apparantly not adequate. Overtorqued all clamps, no longer blows off.

Constant hot wind from engine (fan within recoil starter area?) blows directly over engine onto user. Great for winter, but terrible rest of the year, plus sawdust blown into eyes isn't fun.

More leaks, every NPT fitting leaks, even after additional disassembly-clean-reassembly with PTFE liquid sealer. 

The final straw, after putting about 7 cords through it, was one of the two mounting ears on the back of the ram broke off at the weld. Impossible to have enough pressure on the return stroke/tension action to break that, so I assume it is from non-perpendicular holes for mounting pin? Or perhaps from the wedge rocking, as there is about 3/4" side-to-side freeplay off wedge on the beam.

One good thing however: price... $1400 delivered. And if you call Harbor Freight they respond. I say I've got overheating problems and it could be a cylinder or a pump, and they say, well if you think it could be those we'll get new ones out to you. Plus, don't have to return ship the old part. 

I ordered ram and pump on Friday, they're closed for the weekend, and now I'm debating on asking for an entirely new unit...however, not seeing it on their website (same item unchanged for probably a decade, as a friend got identical one nearly that long ago) has me worried that they'll no longer have it. And do I really want another one? I can't afford another grand for a better one. If only it didn't leak or overheat, I can eventually modify many many things to get it more user friendly, but MUCH work involved. (Moving beam 1.5feet farther away from engine yet maintaining pivot point for vertical use. Relocating engine to reduce wind effect. Relocating valve closer to user. Adding a tank to increase hydraulic capacity from 8 gallons to maybe 16 or 20. Welding on proper spindles for proper hubs for strength and higher speed towing.

Overall, I'd give it a 3 out of 10 score.


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## AKKAMAAN (Oct 18, 2008)

Overheating problems. 


1. Manufacturers always keep cost low by using under dimensioned parts, and rate them high. 1/2" hose should be 3/4". 5 hp engine should be 8hp. that 35 ton 4" cylinder should be 5", etc etc To minimize overheating, from pressure losses, in the system it's important to keep oil velocity low in valves, hoses and fittings or whatever orifice oil have to go thru. Greater cross area decreases oil velocity

2. Acceptable working oil temperatur (in the tank) is 100-130 deg F 

3. Always operate valve with full lever stroke. Other wise high percent of power energy turn into heat in the valve. Check so there is no obstruction in the linkage between lever and valve plunge. Plunge should move roughly about 1/2" giving lever a full stroke.

4. Make sure hydraulic tank is isolated from engine exhaust
Check so the relief valve is on the proper setting. 2000 psi or what ever manufacturer recommend. If relief valve is set to low, it start "leeking" to early and cause overheating. This takes a pressure gauge betweeen pump and valve. Buy a T-fitting that fits your valve inlet hose, like 1"-1/4"-1". Keep the gauge there permanently, that help you with trouble shooting in the future.http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/Bottom_Mounted_Pressure_Gauges_p/afc-00.htm

5. Try to locate where overheating begins. Start with cold equipment. Hands on works very good. In wintertime use snow on the parts and check where it first melts off. 

6. Where ever over heating is initiated, start there with your actions, usully the valve or hoses needs repair or replacement

7. Hoses are usyally/always under dimensioned. Buy hose by the foot, R17 3/4" hose rated for 3000psi. buy reusable fittings and you can make your own hose. Cut hose with a SHARP axe on a 2x4 placed on your chopping block. This can take some practice. And your axe will need sharpening after 2-3 tries. Clean you hose with compressed air after assembled fittings.http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/hh808.pdfAvoid sharp kinks and 90 deg compact elbow fittings. Better 1-2 ft longer than a sharp kink on the hose


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## JohnH (Oct 18, 2008)

cityevader said:


> NOTE: In the last week, the exact model that I have is no longer for sale online, picture below slightly different being horizontal only model, and mine has the Robin Subaru 9hp, not the "incon" engine pictured.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




My father inlaw bought the same splitter and is going through the same things with his. When we put it togther it looks like a 9 year did the welding and assembly. I will be buying an American splitter


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## coostv (Oct 18, 2008)

Sorry to hear of your problems with yours.

My neighbor, father in law, and I all have the 22 ton unit. I and my neighbor have a Briggs, my father in law has the Robin. None of us have had any major problems with ours. I do not remember any issues with the axles when assembling it or any others for that matter. My control valve leaks now, but other than that nothing noteworthy. When I ordered mine it was on sale for $860 shipped, I felt like I was gambling a bit, but it worked out great.

I wonder what the deal is with the 30 ton unit vs. the three 22 ton ones I have witnessed in good shape and laid out well?


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## savageactor7 (Oct 18, 2008)

Thanks for the report cityevader...now I know what my next splitter won't be.


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## ShoerFast (Oct 18, 2008)

A overall 3/10 score is about par for HF .


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## myzamboni (Oct 18, 2008)

In case you want to compare notes:

http://www.**********/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/23743/


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## 1 woodpile (Oct 18, 2008)

I was looking at H.F. splitter too a few months back didn't like the weld etc...
I have bought a few pumps from them and had to keep taking them back so they give credit so I only buy gloves etc... Anyway I bought a troybuilt 27ton from lowes split about 50 cords in th last 2 months change oils and filter add gas and let her rip, no problems with it so far... good luck cityevader with your splitter I hope you can get it sorted out...


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## Mike Van (Oct 19, 2008)

Pretty sad story cityevader - I'd be looking for a refund for that p.o.s. & shopping for something better made.


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## Double O Zed (Apr 4, 2009)

Not to bust your balls, but did the manual specify Mercon V or hydraulic oil? Were your logs over 8 inches in diameter which the manual specifies as the maximum diameter? Okay, maybe it was to bust your balls. 

I just bought the same unit from their retail store here in Jersey. I will keep you posted on my experiences. I intend to beat the snot ot of the thing while splitting the remains of a 32 inch diameter hickory taken down this winter. 






John


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## splittah (Apr 4, 2009)

JohnH said:


> My father inlaw bought the same splitter and is going through the same things with his. When we put it togther it looks like a 9 year did the welding and assembly. I will be buying an American splitter



As an owner of an american splitter I will say you cannot go wrong with American.

Well built, quality machine. I have had 0 problems with mine. I do recommend you get the raised height model. 

AM25HH is the model of mine and I could not be more satisfied. If you take care of the American splitter properly you will be able to pass it on to your kids.
















And, they are made in the USA! Buy American and keep Americans working.


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## nikocker (Apr 4, 2009)

*Aargghh!!!*

Return that POS and buy a Timberwolf. You'll be farther ahead.

Al


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## thejdman04 (Apr 4, 2009)

Sorry your having problems, unfortunatly, you usually get what you pay for.


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## cityevader (Apr 4, 2009)

Double O Zed said:


> Not to bust your balls, but did the manual specify Mercon V or hydraulic oil? Were your logs over 8 inches in diameter which the manual specifies as the maximum diameter? Okay, maybe it was to bust your balls.
> 
> I just bought the same unit from their retail store here in Jersey. I will keep you posted on my experiences. I intend to beat the snot ot of the thing while splitting the remains of a 32 inch diameter hickory taken down this winter.
> 
> ...



I used the same fluid at 31°F this winter as I did last summer, still gets hot.
It sat unused for awhile until Myzamboni came over to split a cord of Oak and Locust. It still gets hot quick, but I never did put on the new valve and cylinder I have in my shed, which may help. I put 16 cords through it so far in less than a year. Discovered another leak from another cross threaded elbow on the valve...surprised it lasted as long as it did. 

Too bad you just ordered one, I'd have sold you mine for cheaper...I'll be moving to a condo soon, losing a large yard and house and place for all my stuff, and have nearly 8 cords I'll never get to use, and folks are hard up more money and can't afford luxury of buying for next year.


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## myzamboni (Apr 4, 2009)

cityevader said:


> I used the same fluid at 31°F this winter as I did last summer, still gets hot.
> It sat unused for awhile until Myzamboni came over to split a cord of Oak and Locust. It still gets hot quick, but I never did put on the new valve and cylinder I have in my shed, which may help. I put 16 cords through it so far in less than a year. Discovered another leak from another cross threaded elbow on the valve...surprised it lasted as long as it did.
> 
> Too bad you just ordered one, I'd have sold you mine for cheaper...I'll be moving to a condo soon, losing a large yard and house and place for all my stuff, and have nearly 8 cords I'll never get to use, and folks are hard up more money and can't afford luxury of buying for next year.



I finally got it all stacked and put away too! Thanks again and keep checking your snail mail:yourock:


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## Tree Pig (Apr 4, 2009)

I would not promote or buy Harbor Freight products, but I do have to say my neighbor has the old 22ton version of HF splitter. I have used it quite a bit helping him split some wood. Though it does have some of the problems you mentioned (poor fit & finish, cheap parts and 1 hose blowing off) it really runs flawless and he got it on sale for $600 (sorry guys they no longer carry it) probably over 100 cord through so far, including not finding anything in New England it cant split. Oh yeah one major complaint exhaust points right at your knee. 

I have a splitez so its night and day but for $600 I could have bought 4 of them and still had money left over to hire some migrant workers to run them.

TIP: Take your chaps off before helping to run the splitter or else you will have a nice little hole like I do.


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## JohnO (Apr 5, 2009)

I've got the 30 ton w/ Robin engine, and have been very happy with it. I did have the return hose blow off after a year, and figure it was a combination of low torque on the clamp, and the filter clogging. The heat is probably due to the small hydraulic tank. Isn't the rule of thumb 1 gallon for every gallon per minute? I'm sure this thing isn't even close. I also changed the exhaust deflector so it blows away from me. Not perfect but better. I also use it almost exclusively in vertical configuration (big logs that I don't want to lift), so the ergonomics have not been a problem. It is kind of annoying in the horizontal mode.

The american made stuff is probably better, but most of the splitter have the same components (Prince valves, Haldex pumps, Robin/B&S/Honda engines) so about all that's left is sticking a bunch of metal together. I'd call it welding, but in the case of the Harbor Freight model, that would be disrespectful to professional welders.

The bottom line for me is that the price was right, and it has worked great for me over the last 3-4 years.


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## John D (Apr 5, 2009)

cityevader said:


> NOTE: In the last week, the exact model that I have is no longer for sale online, picture below slightly different being horizontal only model, and mine has the Robin Subaru 9hp, not the "incon" engine pictured.



Not for nothing,but what did you expect from Harbor Freight? The product is clearly inferior as are 99% of there stuff.It is all made in China,or Taiwan junk.The robin engine if its really a robin,and not a second or blem unit,it probably the only thing worth anything on it.IMO,your lucky they are standing behind it,so pile up as many spare parts until they cut you off,your going to need them.I get the feeling you bought a $1400 boat anchor or paper weight.


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## computeruser (Apr 5, 2009)

Perhaps you might ought to patch it up and sell it off? Sounds like you got hosed...literally.

The owner's manual is funny: Don't split anything > 8". Ha. Stupid chinamen missed the memo - an 8" wedge does not translate to an 8" splitting capacity. 

I'm glad I have a 30" wedge welded to my splitter's beam...wait, no I don't. 12" main wedge with the 4-way installed:






I'll throw in another vote for the little Timberwolf. With a 4-way wedge, it makes quick work of most anything I'd care to split. I've only had two problems with it - one fitting developed a bit of a leak last fall (I finally took 5 minutes to re-tape it and we're back in business) and the tank vent vibrated off once in the trailer and made a mess (my fault). Otherwise it just keeps on going. The operator position is comfortable, the user is shielded from heat/exhaust, and the beam is at a reasonably comfortable height for me, being 6' tall.

Friday night firewood splitting session:


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## tomtrees58 (Apr 5, 2009)

i like my new one tom trees


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## Vangellis (Apr 6, 2009)

Wow, the kid split a lot. Nice pic.
Nice splitter Tom. Is that an Iron and Oak?






Kevin


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## Double O Zed (Apr 10, 2009)

Okay, an update to my original post. The Harbor Freight Splitter is working well with only a few minor set-backs. The oil drain plug was loose and provided an amusing display when it worked its way loose sending a plume of oil across the lawn. The quantity of hydraulic oil that HF states in their owner’s manual as being required (2 gallons) is actually half of what is really needed. 

As far as "Buy American" goes, I'll get right on that once GM and Chrysler pay me back for bailing them out, at which time I'll buy a big fat gas-guzzling Ford pickup because Dennis Leary told me to. 

Yeah, there's a little bit of sarcasm in that run-on sentance, but I do plan on getting that pickup in October. Huuummm, should it be a Toyota Tundra manufactured in San Antonio, TX or a Honda Ridgeline manufactured in Lincoln, AL?


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## splittah (Apr 10, 2009)

Double O Zed said:


> Okay, an update to my original post. The Harbor Freight Splitter is working well with only a few minor set-backs. The oil drain plug was loose and provided an amusing display when it worked its way loose sending a plume of oil across the lawn. The quantity of hydraulic oil that HF states in their owner’s manual as being required (2 gallons) is actually half of what is really needed.
> 
> As far as "Buy American" goes, I'll get right on that once GM and Chrysler pay me back for bailing them out, at which time I'll buy a big fat gas-guzzling Ford pickup because Dennis Leary told me to.
> 
> Yeah, there's a little bit of sarcasm in that run-on sentance, but I do plan on getting that pickup in October. Huuummm, should it be a Toyota Tundra manufactured in San Antonio, TX or a Honda Ridgeline manufactured in Lincoln, AL?



In the first place, The buy American was with regard to American CLS splitter line, made in NY... not vehicles.

In the second place the so called "bailout" you refer to of GM and crysler are government LOANS to the auto makers, not tax free, no payback bailouts... you do not have to pay a dime towards the automakers so they can "keep" that money as the term "bailout" suggests, that is just something the conservative right wing in this country would like you to believe..along with drinking their koolaid. And for those that blame President Obama for loaning them the money:

"It might seem like a stealth rescue, _but the plan has been in the works for at least 18 months. Approval for the loans was first included in last year's Energy Independence Act._ Earlier this year, the automakers sought a first installment of loans totaling about $6 billion."

(http://www.usnews.com/blogs/flowchart/2008/09/24/a-25-billion-lifeline-for-gm-ford-and-chrysler.html)




Third place, I understand that most autos are made in this country, I never stated anything about vehicles made in this country or outside the country, you did. 

Forth place, if anyone wants to buy cheaply made splitters from China or Taiwan because they are cheaper, let them... they will be the ones replacing it in a few years, not me... I bought AMERICAN.

BTW, nice way to introduce yourself.

Hi and welcome to the site.


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## Double O Zed (Apr 11, 2009)

Ouch! I think I hit a sore spot. Sorry.

Yes, I realize that the bailout money is a loan, but it's a loan to companies that may go belly up, or even worse, hooking up with an Italian company known for poor quality. It was Bush that signed the bailout back in October.

I do go out of my way to buy from American companies whenever prudent and economically feasible. In my line of work, I follow this rule of thumb which has a far greater economic impact on the world than my personal life. 

BTW, I believe that HF has their fuel and hydraulic fluid capacities backward.

Thanks for the welcome!


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## myzamboni (Apr 11, 2009)

splittah said:


> In
> 
> ... I bought AMERICAN.
> 
> :



You bought *AN* American indicating the brand would have been clearer. I read it the wrong way as have others. Buying American is buying my country of manufacture (subtle but important difference).


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## splittah (Apr 11, 2009)

myzamboni said:


> You bought *AN* American indicating the brand would have been clearer. I read it the wrong way as have others. Buying American is buying my country of manufacture (subtle but important difference).



You are right... sorry for wording it wrong.

However, American CLS is in fact made in america at a small company in NY state.

There is no comparison to the HF splitters with these.

The quality of their splitters is very good, the price is lower than timberwolf but more than some of the splitters of obvious lower quality.

They have cheaper models than mine, and more expensive models than mine. They also have vertical, vertical & horizontal combos, tractor mount, 30" -36" -48" ram strokes optional, log lifts, and even conveyors.

You might say mine it is a midrange price for an quality splitter.

Again, sorry for the confusion.

If interested, here is a couple links.

http://www.americanmsr.com/new-this-year.htm

http://www.americanmsr.com/logsplitters.htm


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## harrybeaver (Apr 11, 2009)

I bought the HF 22 ton unit with 6 hp Robin. I have had it for several years and have had no trouble with the exception of the coupling set screw backing out which caused the coupling to seperate. The welds are just as good as the welds I have seen on units at big box stores, and almost as good as my own welds. I paid $860 and feel I got a hell of a good deal compared to the units I see at big box stores that have cheap lawn mower dirived engines.


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