# 3120XP or MS880?



## DeanBrown3D (Jan 13, 2006)

Hello all, I'm considering one of these two (3120XP or MS880), their specs are almost identical. I havent absolutely decided on buying one of them yet, and if I do I wanted to get soom feedback on these. I'm leaning to the Stihl from the comments I've had from people with the husky. 

Comments welcome.

Thanks

Dean


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## fishhuntcutwood (Jan 13, 2006)

Usually with nearly identitcal specs, a significant $$ investment in either, and all else being equal it often comes down to local dealer support, and which one "feels" better in your hand.

Sorry to be on the fence, but I've never ran a 3120, and only ran an 880 a couple of times breifly. 

Jeff


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## DeanBrown3D (Jan 13, 2006)

Yes indeed, I am close to a Stihl dealer (Grovers Mill Farm, NJ) and they are great.


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## Mr. (Jan 13, 2006)

I perfer the 880, BUT YOU CAN FIND A 3120 nib on ebay for $1k. Around here the 880 is $1400.

Hope thy are cheaper there.

Fred


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## DeanBrown3D (Jan 13, 2006)

With 36" bar its $1620 here in NJ.


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## Mr. (Jan 13, 2006)

Sounds like it's settled.

Fred


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## kf_tree (Jan 13, 2006)

i run all husky's except for the ms 200's and an 880. for a work saw the ms880 is the better saw. the 880 has a high speed jet on the carb and you can get a coil with out a rev limiter. the 3120 are also known for bottem end problems. this has been asked may times before, do a search.


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## Crofter (Jan 13, 2006)

kf_tree, is the bottom end problem on the bigger Huskys still around or has it been cured?


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## kf_tree (Jan 13, 2006)

Crofter said:


> kf_tree, is the bottom end problem on the bigger Huskys still around or has it been cured?



as far as i know the cure is an even lower rev coil, the new ones have a rev limit of 10,000


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## Mr. (Jan 13, 2006)

kf_tree said:


> as far as i know the cure is an even lower rev coil, the new ones have a rev limit of 10,000



I believe it's lower than that by feel, but others know better. For 50% more money the 880 is a tough buy for someone who has never run either. Unlike us. 

Fred


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## Stihl Crazy (Jan 13, 2006)

The 088 is my choice, just got a price on 2 new ones today-$2400


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## brncreeper (Jan 13, 2006)

3120’s a beast! Very reliable, plenty power, it’s heavy though. I use 36” and 42” .404 pitch bars for oak wood. 
I wish it could reliably rev higher. Mines a ’02 model so I’m guessing the limiter kicks in somewhere around 10,000 rpms.

Has anyone had reliability issues doing a muffler mod and running a 395 coil?


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## Chopwood (Jan 13, 2006)

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=27498
Check this one out.


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## Rotax Robert (Jan 13, 2006)

I own both and setting the money thing aside I would go with the Stihl, but you know how opinions are.

Rotax


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## twistedtree (Jan 13, 2006)

DeanBrown3D said:


> Yes indeed, I am close to a Stihl dealer (Grovers Mill Farm, NJ) and they are great.



Seen any Martians lately? Sorry, I coudn't resist. I actually know the place quite well. My father lived a stone's throw away for many years.


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## ccicora (Jan 13, 2006)

How fast do you wana go?? I know where there is a good Gas one that goes... but not pratical for everyday cutting...


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 14, 2006)

I can't compare the 3120, but I do have a lot of working knowledge of the insides of 088/880... Stihl has some bearing problems on the 088 (clutch side). Their solution was to put a steel sleeve in the mag casing to support the bearing, and to issue a revised "special fit' bearing. No offical answer from Stihl as to why, but it appears that long bars and tight chains put too much stress on the clutch side bearing and it beat out the housing. If you are looking at used, check the serial number and make sure it is the newer version 154 603 854... They also revised the WOT setting from 12,000 to 11,500. 

Overall, a nice mature and solid saw with some incremental improvements over the 084 and earlier 088.


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## fishhuntcutwood (Jan 14, 2006)

I knew you'd come through Lakeside. I'm toying with the idea of rebuilding one like you are. Maybe we'll talk more later....


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 14, 2006)

Jeff:

If you do, I have all the special tools... I just spent two hours assembling my crankcase with a new crank bearings, crank etc... Hmmm.. Found out why you need the $1.45 "assembly sleeve"... (hey, I'm a pro - I can use a socket...sure...) messed up a real nice $19 oil seal... Wish I'd learned it on a customer saw  

Also found you you can't insert the clutch side bearing in the newer casings without a press, even when the casing is baked for 20 minutes at 302F... Steel doesn't expand like Mag. Even at 302F, the casing is still 1 thou inch less than the bearing... Made a custom backing plate to support the casing while in the press and used the factory bearing press block (cheap). The Stihl service manual is for the old 88, and they have no info on the newer types. Stihl De couldn't help, and Stihl Aust said "get it real hot and press real fast". That sounds like a precision approach, but it's essentially what I did.


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## Tree Sling'r (Jan 14, 2006)

If you don't mind me asking, why do you need a saw that big. Is it nessecary or just a power fix?


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 14, 2006)

Milling. No substitute for power/torque when ripping in big wood.


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## fishhuntcutwood (Jan 15, 2006)

It'd be a power fix for me.


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 15, 2006)

fishhuntcutwood said:


> It'd be a power fix for me.



We'll get you millling, or married, yet!


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## Mr_Brushcutter (Jan 17, 2006)

A question on 880s and 3120s do either of them have out board clutches? I'd imagin that they would both have inboard clutches for some reason?

I'd really like a saw that big for bragging rights and the power fix. It would have a practical purpous as well. Well small companys do big trees the the wood normally ends up getting dumped and would be good for milling. Also if i ever did any big trees the power would be great. We have some massive Beach and that s mean to saws.


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## kf_tree (Jan 17, 2006)

Mr_Brushcutter said:


> A question on 880s and 3120s do either of them have out board clutches? I'd imagin that they would both have inboard clutches for some reason?



the 3120 is outboard, while the 880 is inboard. most of the husky's have been outboard clutch's, the 372 and 385 are the only ones that come to mind as inboard.


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## Justin Garrison (Jan 17, 2006)

I have a question about the 3120. I am fixing mine up and was wondering are they supposed to have a choke? Mine does not, it has a primer bulb? It also wont run on its own it only runs if I pour mix in the carb. I am thinking carb kit or fuel filter and maybe clean the line? It has been sitting for god knows how long. I think it is an 89 model It has a 300th year anniversery sticker that says 1689-1989 so I am guessing it is from 89.


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## brncreeper (Jan 17, 2006)

Mine has a choke ('02 model), it also has a throttle lock to aid in starting.


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## Mr_Brushcutter (Jan 18, 2006)

kf_tree said:


> the 3120 is outboard, while the 880 is inboard. most of the husky's have been outboard clutch's, the 372 and 385 are the only ones that come to mind as inboard.



880 it would have to be then. Hate outboard clutches the 365 has an inboard clutch too.


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## SawTroll (Jan 18, 2006)

kf_tree said:


> ...most of the husky's have been outboard clutch's, the 372 and 385 are the only ones that come to mind as inboard.


.....and the 371xp, 365 and 362xp, I think.


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Jan 18, 2006)

Mr_Brushcutter said:


> 880 it would have to be then. Hate outboard clutches the 365 has an inboard clutch too.



I was wondering why the outboard clutch, and think it might have to do with heat. Would an inboard clutch add heat to the motor?

As for the clutch side bearing problem, I can see it being from the chain tension. If you're running a six foot bar you tend to want to tighten the heck out of the chain so it doesn't derail while you hold it sideways.
If you tighten it while it's hot, then it cools...crunch.


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## BranchManagr (Jun 25, 2017)

Tree Sling'r said:


> If you don't mind me asking, why do you need a saw that big. Is it necessary or just a power fix?


With your feet on the ground - you might not.
But, with felling above ground and requiring > 28" guide bar the 120cc engine comes in handy for sure {re. TimberBeast}

{Image for demonstration purposes only}


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## Big_Wood (Jun 25, 2017)

If you running them stock I wouldn't even consider a 3120. To much needing done to them to make them what they need to be. When it comes to chain tension on a 6' bar. Try run it even kinda loose and see how long it stays on there for ya. Lol


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## CR888 (Jun 25, 2017)

I love a ten+ year old thread coming to life, especially when someone responds to a decade old question.


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## Big_Wood (Jun 25, 2017)

CR888 said:


> I love a ten+ year old thread coming to life, especially when someone responds to a decade old question.


lol i didn't even realize the thread was old. i don't look at the dates on tapatalk.


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## bikemike (Jun 25, 2017)

I've run them both. Seems like a 3120 likes to keep higher rpm in the cut but falls flat on its face if it's not revin out. The 880 seems to pull stronger in a cut but doesn't seem to run the rpm as the husky. I like em both but I'd choose a 661 with a skip chain before the 120cc saws.


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## sawfun (Jun 25, 2017)

I'd choose a good Mac 125 over either the 088/880 or 3120.


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## Big_Wood (Jun 25, 2017)

bikemike said:


> I've run them both. Seems like a 3120 likes to keep higher rpm in the cut but falls flat on its face if it's not revin out. The 880 seems to pull stronger in a cut but doesn't seem to run the rpm as the husky. I like em both but I'd choose a 661 with a skip chain before the 120cc saws.



On 2000+ Stock for stock an 088/880 will do better then a 3120. You must not be talking a newer stock 3120 cause they be limited to 9.6k. With the 12.5k or unlimited coil stock for stock or ported a 3120 will end an 880 in rpm and torque. I've ripped oversize logs in half with 6' bars on both, I'd rather carry the 880 but with that bar length the 880 isn't better, it just sucks less lol


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## Robin Wood (Jun 25, 2017)

i pity you guys, left with only 2 options to choose from

over here 3120 are used on double power head mill but it lacks the durability like the other big saws, its got weak low end apparently. but it sync wells and a breeze to use when set right, good av. smooth saw

as usual 070 old school power house, tons of parts OEM and AM. easy to fix, user friendly minus the av part and manual oiler not ergonomicly places. slow but will get the job done, low rpm torque. everyone's favourite saw for big timber hardwood in my region

880 is good for certain length of bar then it just falls flat on its face, maybe lacks the low end power like 070 or 1201. no manual oiler, but decent saw if bar is not too long

the baddest big saw 1201, pretty high rpm with very strong torque. pulls without trouble in wide range of rpm, good av manual oiler ergonomicly placed. but parts need to be ordered from japan and seldom dealers stock parts for it. almost no AM parts. so downtime will put you out of action for a bit

my review for big saws in stock form


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## tombukt2 (May 26, 2018)

have you guys seen the bearing installer the guys over on the fake saw site has made ? a threaded rod a sleeve a nut works on most all saws discussed here . looks to me like 440 bucks will make a nearly bullet proof hybrid I own real Andreas 066 034 and am building a hybrid or fake 660 folks are powersporting with em .. i just want to cut some big stuff a few times 1400 is out of question Had a mahinda tractor worked great too.


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