# Husky 350 Port Job



## blsnelling (Jun 24, 2010)

I acquired this saw yesterday as payment for some saw work. It's an '07 model that has seen little use. Unfortunately, it had a short life and was straight gassed. I cleaned up the cylinder and will be putting a 353 piston in it, just like rms61moparman did. I ported this one as well. I thought this might interest those of you that want to spend less than what a 346 costs, and still have a nice running saw. I do not yet have the new piston, so it'll be a while before we get to see it run. I'll also be putting a degree wheel on it, and making any necessary adjustments to the port timing. For now, the bulk of the port work is done.

No, the ports aren't all polished and shinny. This will be a work saw, and it's not trying out for any beauty pageants. 

Unfortunately, I don't have any before pictures. LOTS of work was done to the transfers. They needed a ton of work to flow like they need to. The intake and exhaust were widened a lot. They're now at 70% of bore. The rear transfers are probably at least 75% wider than they were stock. It sure is nice having easy access to them with the cover off!


Case and gasket matched. This was straight across with no radius. Care must be taken so as to not create a hole, since there's a sharp inside corner on the outside of the jug here.








Both the top and bottom of this divider were beveled.












There was a large hump here that mated with a similiar on in the cover. 












This is what you end up with.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 24, 2010)

Here you can see how much the intake and transfers were widened.












This is a shot straight into the rear transfer.







I do have one bad scratch above the exhaust. I still expect it to have good compression. The saw was free, and I didn't want to invest a lot in it. I wanted to see what I could get out of this cylinder, rather than put a 346 topend on it. Also, I will be polishing up this bevel.


----------



## little possum (Jun 24, 2010)

Very nice. Would be nice to pick your brain for a day. lol

My 350 may get that treatment one day


----------



## Mastermind (Jun 24, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Here you can see how much the intake and transfers were widened.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



What do ya know, that jug looks nearly identical to my 359s, scratch and all. I didn't take any pics of my port work as I didn't want you guys to see my crappy looking jug...lol. I did leave some of the divider in the transfers, though I sharpened the bottom and narrowed the bump quite a bit.

Great looking work Brad. Thanks for the pics.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 24, 2010)

I see you down there, Mike


----------



## rms61moparman (Jun 24, 2010)

Are you going to lower the jug and do a pop-up???
If you do that 350, will SMOKE your 346!!!

I am amazed at how much those saws are choked down from the factory and they still run respectable.
I debated trying to get the transfer covers off and massage that area as you did, but I didn't.
Looks like if I want to have any hope of not getting spanked by your saw, I may have to go back in there.


Mike


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 24, 2010)

rms61moparman said:


> Are you going to lower the jug and do a pop-up???
> If you do that 350, will SMOKE your 346!!!
> 
> I am amazed at how much those saws are choked down from the factory and they still run respectable.
> ...



Mike, you slacker!!!!:greenchainsaw:


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 24, 2010)

Anyone know if a Husky 51 or 254 piston will work? I can them in Meteor or Episan, but the only 353 piston I can find is a Golf? I'd rather use the Meteor or Episan if they work.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 24, 2010)

I'm thinking this piston might work, LINK


----------



## rms61moparman (Jun 24, 2010)

Yes!

That one will work if you have the 45mm jug and not the 44mm.

I'm really looking forward to seeing that saw run!
I'll put in a bid when you sell your 346.LOL


Mike


----------



## wigglesworth (Jun 24, 2010)

Your sure gonna be giving them rings a work out around them upper transfers. Them things look like ring hangers to me??? Are they angled like the stihls or are they flat at the top?


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 24, 2010)

rms61moparman said:


> Yes!
> 
> That one will work if you have the 45mm jug and not the 44mm.


Yes, it's 45mm. I think they went to that in 2003 with the EPA version, correct? So are you telling me that yours has a smaller cylinder than mine? My, oh my, oh my



wigglesworth said:


> Your sure gonna be giving them rings a work out around them upper transfers. Them things look like ring hangers to me??? Are they angled like the stihls or are they flat at the top?


Yes they're flat. It's ported no differently than many other a saw I've ported. The transfers on my 346 are probably wider.


----------



## ronT2 (Jun 24, 2010)

Amazing how you got to that point in a day and it’s taken me well over a year to work my way to something like that. I’m only at 65% on the exhaust and my upper transfers are only .56” wide. Right now I’m running the Golf 353 piston, it’s held together so far but I wish Meteor made a 353 piston. The one other thing that I just did a couple weeks ago was remove the sides of the piston under the pin to help open things up a little more. Hope you don’t mind another pic.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 24, 2010)

That looks real good Ron.


----------



## gink595 (Jun 24, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Anyone know if a Husky 51 or 254 piston will work? I can them in Meteor or Episan, but the only 353 piston I can find is a Golf? I'd rather use the Meteor or Episan if they work.



Brad aren't you going about this backwards, you're supposed to know what piston your using before you port...Not the other way


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 24, 2010)

gink595 said:


> Brad aren't you going about this backwards, you're supposed to know what piston your using before you port...Not the other way



It's just a 350 With Husky skirt widths and ring locations, it's not a big deal to port without the piston. I'll adjust the port timing after I get the piston.


----------



## rms61moparman (Jun 24, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Yes, it's 45mm. I think they went to that in 2003 with the EPA version, correct? So are you telling me that yours has a smaller cylinder than mine? My, oh my, oh my



No mine is the 45mm, I was just hoping yours wasn't!!!LOL


Mike


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 28, 2010)

Here's the piston for the non EPA Husky 50 or 51. It's dimensionally identical to the 350 piston. I'm glad to have found a Meteor replacement. It only varies maybe .001" in pin to crown heigh and overall height. The skirts are significantly wider. You can go as wide as you want on any port with this piston. The piston is not a limiting factor. I'm axious to get this bad boy together tonight.


----------



## rms61moparman (Jun 28, 2010)

I'm looking forward to seeing the video.
Are you gonna wear a shirt???LOL


Mike


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 28, 2010)

rms61moparman said:


> I'm looking forward to seeing the video.
> Are you gonna wear a shirt???LOL
> 
> 
> Mike



I doubt you want to see my hairy belly any more than I want to see yours


----------



## rburg (Jun 28, 2010)

Are you going to give this saw to your BIL when you get done? I knew he said he was looking for one when he was at the gtg.


----------



## rms61moparman (Jun 28, 2010)

rburg said:


> Are you going to give this saw to your BIL when you get done? I knew he said he was looking for one when he was at the gtg.




Anthony will be one lucky son-of-a-gun if he gets that one.

It gonna be a hard one to turn loose of.
It's gonna be interesting to see how this setup runs when done by a REAL porter and not a hack like me.
I'm still amazed at how mine runs despite my butcher job.


Mike


----------



## ronT2 (Jun 28, 2010)

Good to know that there is a Meteor alternative to the Golf. So….do you plan on running a 359 carb on it?


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 28, 2010)

rms61moparman said:


> It's gonna be interesting to see how this setup runs when done by a REAL porter and not a hack like me.
> I'm still amazed at how mine runs despite my butcher job.



Yeah, we know how your self-proclaimed "junk" runs I know when to bring a gun to a gun fight


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 28, 2010)

How's this for free? Well, I did have to repair another saw, and got this for payment, but still!


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 28, 2010)

The saw has no real run time on it with the new piston. I've only warmed it up a couple times. Even with a heavily hand-sanded and then honed cylinder, with one remaining scratch, compression is already 150 PSI. That will go up as the cylinder smooths and the rings break in. Squish was .019" without a gasket.

I hope to get it in some wood tomorrow. Only then will I tune the H too see what it's going to turn. I did replace the 13,000 RPM rev limited coil with an unlimited one.


----------



## rms61moparman (Jun 28, 2010)

That one is a LOT prettier than mine!
Where's the vids of it outcutting your 346???


Mike


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 28, 2010)

rms61moparman said:


> That one is a LOT prettier than mine!
> Where's the vids of it outcutting your 346???
> 
> 
> Mike



Hasn't seen wood yet. Hopefully tomorrow.


----------



## rms61moparman (Jun 28, 2010)

I wish my squish had come in that tight!!!
Oh well........maybe someday!......................Right Nik???LOL


Mike


----------



## parrisw (Jun 28, 2010)

Dam that thing looks brand new!!!!!!!! What do you use to clean it up?


----------



## little possum (Jun 29, 2010)

I want to know how come all your saws are so clean? 

Looks real good. Did you mod the muffler?


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 29, 2010)

little possum said:


> I want to know how come all your saws are so clean?
> 
> Looks real good. Did you mod the muffler?



Because I just cleaned it up I modded the factory outlet. I lifted the deflector what I could and then opened it up inside. I'm out of 288 deflectors. I may or may not add one when they come in.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 29, 2010)

parrisw said:


> Dam that thing looks brand new!!!!!!!! What do you use to clean it up?



I disassembled the saw and cleaned it in my parts washer full of Mineral Spirits/Paint Thinner. It's quick and works well. I probably spent an hour or less on cleaning, and it's nearly brand new clean.


----------



## little possum (Jun 29, 2010)

Oh, parts washer, I knew there was a reason I was supposed to save some money instead of buying more saws to put in the parts washer.

Anywhos, great work. And Im interested in your comparison.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 29, 2010)

It's just a cheapie from HF. The solvent actually cost more than the washer itself.


----------



## edisto (Jun 29, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> No, the ports aren't all polished and shinny. This will be a work saw, and it's not trying out for any beauty pageants.



A lot of people look at these threads as "how to" threads, so with that in mind, I'd like to raise a few points simply to provide an alternative viewpoint for discussion, not as a criticism of the work Brad was kind enough to share.

You'll read a lot that a rough finish does not have much of an effect on flow, which is true, but there is a big difference between a rough finish, and an uneven finish. I'm sure the camera exaggerates the effect, but if you can see the tracks of the burr, then the finish is uneven enough to produce eddies that do have a negative effect on flow. Given the overall improvement in flow from the port work itself, this might be marginal, but one side effect of the eddies is carbon buildup. You don't need a mirror finish, but the surfaces should be even for maximum flow.

You can _say_ it doesn't matter, but the people that have flow benches seem to think it does...



blsnelling said:


> Yes they're flat. It's ported no differently than many other a saw I've ported. The transfers on my 346 are probably wider.



Like the 440? I don't like the squareness of the port edges, because it can be hard on the rings (or catastrophic if a ring hangs). That doesn't mean it won't work out fine in most cases, but the risk is real. 

Another consideration for port shape, however is symmetry. With one round profile and one square profile, the ring gets forced back into the cylinder unevenly. This can stress the ring, because it is not free to move, and can cause the ring to bear unevenly on the pin, to the point of working it loose with enough use.

Speaking of symmetry, the only real danger to working on the transfers is producing a lack of symmetry. If one flows better than another, the efficiency of scavenging drops off dramatically. The saw won't run noticeably poorly, (especially at high rpms) but it will be a ways from optimal. If you are going to work on the transfers, you should find a way to test whether they have symmetrical flow.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 29, 2010)

edisto said:


> Like the 440?



Yes, exactly like the 440. BTW, these ports were ground from the outside with a *round *burr, all be it a small diameter one.


----------



## edisto (Jun 29, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Yes, exactly like the 440. BTW, these ports were ground from the outside with a *round *burr, all be it a small diameter one.



I saw that...I always wanted to be inside a transfer port! Very convenient!

I try to stay away from the square burrs too. Makes a mess of things.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 29, 2010)

Port timing on this saw was as follows.

Exhaust 104°
Transfers 125°
Intake 70°

I left the exhaust and transfers alone. I didn't want to lower the intake floor that much. That would likely take it down into the impulse area. So I trimmed the intake piston skirt to get it to 80°


----------



## Mastermind (Jun 29, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> It's just a cheapie from HF. The solvent actually cost more than the washer itself.



Is your washer one of the cheap ones that are just suppose to use non-flammables?


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 29, 2010)

mastermind7864 said:


> Is your washer one of the cheap ones that are just suppose to use non-flammables?



Here it is, LINK.


----------



## ronT2 (Jun 29, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Here it is, LINK.



Thats the one I also have. But like you said the solvent you put in it can cost about $10.00 a gallon.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 29, 2010)

ronT2 said:


> Thats the one I also have. But like you said the solvent you put in it can cost about $10.00 a gallon.



The last I bought was labeled Paint Thinner, basically Mineral Spirits.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 29, 2010)

This little 350 really hauls the mail! It wants to turn well north of 15,000. I've got it running quite fat right now at 14,700. I tuned it where I liked it at about 15,400, but turned it down to 14,700 for a little more breakin. She pulls strong too! I'll try to get some video of it this evening in some respectable wood.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 29, 2010)

ronT2 said:


> So….do you plan on running a 359 carb on it?



Anyone know if specs are available online for the venture size of the 346 and 357/359 carbs? I can't get my calipers in there without removing the throttle plate and rod. I'm not going to do that.

If I get energetic enough, and find the time, I may make timed cuts with this 350, then swap the 357 carb from my 346 and see if it makes any real difference. I've always wanted to know.


----------



## Mastermind (Jun 29, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Anyone know if specs are available online for the venture size of the 346 and 357/359 carbs? I can't get my calipers in there without removing the throttle plate and rod. I'm not going to do that.
> 
> If I get energetic enough, and find the time, I may make timed cuts with this 350, then swap the 357 carb from my 346 and see if it makes any real difference. I've always wanted to know.



Well now brad in the interest of science you know you must do this. I'll be watching for it...lol.

Thanks Brad for sharing your builds with us newbies. 

After porting the 359, I'm impressed with the power these Huskys are capable of producing.


----------



## ronT2 (Jun 29, 2010)

The first thing I noticed after the mods was the throttle response. 

Here's the carb info.

2150 Zama C3-EL32 15.0mm venturi
350 Zama C3-EL18 A/B 15.0mm venturi
You’ll have to use the look-up page below to verify.
http://www.zamacarb.com/prod_lookup.cfm

350 Walbro HDA-195 Carb: 15.08mm venturi
http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/product2.asp?Series=HDA&partnum=HDA%2D195%2D1

2159 Walbro HDA-175 16.66mm venturi
http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/product2.asp?Series=HDA&partnum=HDA%2D175%2D1

357 Walbro HDA-198 16.66mm venturi
http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/product2.asp?Series=HDA&partnum=HDA%2D198%2D1


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 29, 2010)

ronT2 said:


> The first thing I noticed after the mods was the throttle response.
> 
> Here's the carb info.
> 
> ...



Excellent info. Thank you very much. If I got with a 357/359 carb, I'll be using the replacement Zama C3-EL42. It has an even bigger 17mm venturi


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 29, 2010)

The significant difference in venturi size pushed me over the edge. I ordered a Zama carb. This is the correct replacement carb for the problematic Walbro carbs. I'll have to order the intake elbow and an air filter as well. Only $50 for a new carb.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 29, 2010)

If I did the math right, a 17mm venturi has 28% more surface area than a 15mm venturi. Maybe this mod makes more difference than I thought. I just threw it on my 346 since I knew I could. I never tested the difference it made alone.


----------



## ronT2 (Jun 29, 2010)

It’s a tight fit in my 2150, I hope there’s enough room in the 350. The filter is only held in place by a piece of medium density foam glued to the filter that presses against the cover when it’s on the saw. I’d still like to do some work to the elbow to give it a little clearance with the back of the case.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 29, 2010)

I had the 350 out tonight in some solid Oak I just dropped. It was running real good and then went crazy lean. I don't know if it's an air leak or a fuel supply problem. I did notice when blowing it off afterwards that the tank vent had fallen, but doubt that could cause it. So I didn't get to make any good comparison cuts of it against the 346. You will be able to see both of them in action here. Once I get the 350 back in order, I'll do some timed cuts with both.

In the vid here, the 350 is wearing a 7-pin 18" chipper chain, and the 346 is wearing an 8-pin and 16" chisel chain.


<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/EryJa61LC5g&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/EryJa61LC5g&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>


----------



## Mastermind (Jun 29, 2010)

Did you reseal the crankcase where the plastic and metal meet? The one I did leaked badly in that area.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 29, 2010)

mastermind7864 said:


> Did you reseal the crankcase where the plastic and metal meet? The one I did leaked badly in that area.



That was not taken apart. Maybe it needs to be


----------



## ronT2 (Jun 30, 2010)

Might want to check the tank vent since it probably has a much healthier appetite for mix than it did before. The vent might not be able to keep up like on the 346(?) you had. My 2150 was not venting as fast as it had to either.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 30, 2010)

ronT2 said:


> Might want to check the tank vent since it probably has a much healthier appetite for mix than it did before. The vent might not be able to keep up like on the 346(?) you had. My 2150 was not venting as fast as it had to either.



I already drilled the extra hole like I do on a 346.


----------



## ronT2 (Jun 30, 2010)

edisto said:


> A lot of people look at these threads as "how to" threads, so with that in mind, I'd like to raise a few points simply to provide an alternative viewpoint for discussion, not as a criticism of the work Brad was kind enough to share.
> 
> You'll read a lot that a rough finish does not have much of an effect on flow, which is true, but there is a big difference between a rough finish, and an uneven finish. I'm sure the camera exaggerates the effect, *but if you can see the tracks of the burr, then the finish is uneven enough to produce eddies that do have a negative effect on flow.* Given the overall improvement in flow from the port work itself, this might be marginal, but one side effect of the eddies is carbon buildup. You don't need a mirror finish, but the surfaces should be even for maximum flow.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the info, I'll keep that in mind while I'm working/playing.


----------



## sprung22 (Jun 30, 2010)

Looks great Brad.Sounds even better...


----------



## mweba (Jun 30, 2010)

Easy to check the side tranfer access caps for a leak. On the first 359 I did after a couple tanks the cap started to leak and gave the same symptoms. Not sayin thats it but easy to test.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 30, 2010)

mweba said:


> Easy to check the side tranfer access caps for a leak. On the first 359 I did after a couple tanks the cap started to leak and gave the same symptoms. Not sayin thats it but easy to test.



That's a real possibility. I scraped the gaskets off and used MotoSeal. I'll be pulling it back down for close inspection before running it again.


----------



## Mastermind (Jun 30, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> That's a real possibility. I scraped the gaskets off and used MotoSeal. I'll be pulling it back down for close inspection before running it again.



That's what I did on my 359, but I used Threebond. I did let it sit overnight, I hope it holds up.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 30, 2010)

mastermind7864 said:


> That's what I did on my 359, but I used Threebond. I did let it sit overnight, I hope it holds up.



I use both ThreeBond 1194 and Permatex MotoSeal. They're both the same kind of product. I'll have to put some pressure to the saw and see what's leaking.


----------



## Mastermind (Jun 30, 2010)

Hey Brad, I posted pics of a poulan strato saw I'm wanting to play around with. Could you take a look at the pics and see what you think?

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=141112


----------



## mweba (Jun 30, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I use both ThreeBond 1194 and Permatex MotoSeal. They're both the same kind of product. I'll have to put some pressure to the saw and see what's leaking.



Resealed mine with threebond and have not had a problem since. Not much surface area there so I think special care needs to be taken.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 30, 2010)

mweba said:


> Resealed mine with threebond and have not had a problem since. Not much surface area there so I think special care needs to be taken.



I'm thinking the cast covers may not be perfectly flat. I think I'll remove them and sand them on a flat glass surface.


----------



## mweba (Jun 30, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I'm thinking the cast covers may not be perfectly flat. I think I'll remove them and sand them on a flat glass surface.



Good point, now that you say that I beleive the covers did rock a bit. Will be interesting to see where it comes from. Have an extra epa cylinder if you need it.

Have always thaught the saws with this cylinder design have modded well. Got me kinda excited about the 372xp xtorq.


----------



## edisto (Jun 30, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> That's a real possibility. I scraped the gaskets off and used MotoSeal. I'll be pulling it back down for close inspection before running it again.



Did you vac/pressure test it before running it?


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 30, 2010)

edisto said:


> Did you vac/pressure test it before running it?



Nope. It's a newer saw, as you can see from the pics, that has seen little use. The saw was straight gassed. I had no reason to suspect a leak, and can am very careful to listen to the tune when running it. Just another reason that I have no use for a rev-limited saw.


----------



## edisto (Jun 30, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Nope. It's a newer saw, as you can see from the pics, that has seen little use. The saw was straight gassed. I had no reason to suspect a leak, and can am very careful to listen to the tune when running it. Just another reason that I have no use for a rev-limited saw.



I didn't mean for diagnostics, just that it's a good bit of insurance if you have the jug off and on, or are replacing gaskets with compound.


----------



## blsnelling (Jun 30, 2010)

edisto said:


> I didn't mean for diagnostics, just that it's a good bit of insurance if you have the jug off and on, or are replacing gaskets with compound.



It's definately a good idea, and good insurance. But I don't vac test every saw I work on. I've never had a problem with these sealants leaking. As it turns out, that wasn't the case here either. It failed a vacuum test badly, so I put about 10 PSI of air to it and squirted it down with Windex. It's leaking so badly that you can actually here it. The source is at the clamshell seam, where the metal to plastic seam is. I'll have to pull the saw entirely apart and reseal it. I do like an obvious problem though.


----------



## 2000ssm6 (Jun 30, 2010)

My 350 has the same problem, sounds/acts like a air leak. I'll check that bottom plate next...


----------



## Winn R (Jul 1, 2010)

Would some one mind posting a link to the tool required to remove the covers from the 350 cylinder?

Thanks


----------



## blsnelling (Jul 1, 2010)

2000ssm6 said:


> My 350 has the same problem, sounds/acts like a air leak. I'll check that bottom plate next...



There wasn't near enough sealant on that bottom joint. the corners had virtually none.


----------



## mweba (Jul 1, 2010)

Winn R said:


> Would some one mind posting a link to the tool required to remove the covers from the 350 cylinder?
> 
> Thanks



http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=119&division=1&category=10
Many brands out there. THese are reasonable. I have the snap on set which is nice....but spendy


----------



## little possum (Jul 1, 2010)

2000ssm6 said:


> My 350 has the same problem, sounds/acts like a air leak. I'll check that bottom plate next...



Have you checked the fuel line, I fixed one a while back that acted like the seals, but turned out to be the line. It was sucking air, and just wouldnt run good. I pulled the line off, and it wasnt pulling gas, and I found a leak, and installed a new filter


----------



## 2000ssm6 (Jul 1, 2010)

little possum said:


> Have you checked the fuel line, I fixed one a while back that acted like the seals, but turned out to be the line. It was sucking air, and just wouldnt run good. I pulled the line off, and it wasnt pulling gas, and I found a leak, and installed a new filter



Yup, the fuel line and filter were the first to get canned. I got it sitting on the top shelf, the Stihls asked me to move it. Out of sight, out of mind.

One day that little 350 will run...one day........


----------



## rms61moparman (Jul 1, 2010)

2000ssm6 said:


> One day that little 350 will run...one day........





You might want to be careful about that.
I can see a big old Stihl mutiny in your future when that little souped-up homeowner Husky starts spankin' azzes around there!!!LOL


Mike


----------



## blsnelling (Jul 1, 2010)

I had the 350 back out tonight, and put a tank of fuel through it. It's running great now. I've got a video I'll be posting a little later of it and the 346 in the same wood.


----------



## rms61moparman (Jul 1, 2010)

With the same B&C???


----------



## blsnelling (Jul 1, 2010)

rms61moparman said:


> With the same B&C???



Yes.


----------



## blsnelling (Jul 1, 2010)

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/-2iaraCio08&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/-2iaraCio08&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>


----------



## blsnelling (Jul 1, 2010)

The 346 is still about 20% faster than the 350. The 357 carb and filter is ordered, so we'll see what that does for it in this same wood. There's also an additional port on the muffler of the 346. I've only opened up the factory port on the 350. I've got more deflectors on order. I'll be surprised to see it ever catch up. Just a reminder, this 346 does have a popup for whatever that's worth.


----------



## rms61moparman (Jul 1, 2010)

How different are the port jobs on each?

I think opening the muffler is gonna make about 8-10% of that 20% disappear.

Lets not lose sight of the fact that yours isn't just ANY 346.
It is a runner without all of the "go fast goodies" you've done to it.

The OTHER consideration is.................................the 350 has already SMOKED even YOUR 346 on a dollar for dollar basis.

What does a new 350 retail for anyway?


Mike


----------



## Metals406 (Jul 1, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> The 346 is still about 20% faster than the 350. The 357 carb and filter is ordered, so we'll see what that does for it in this same wood. There's also an additional port on the muffler of the 346. I've only opened up the factory port on the 350. I've got more deflectors on order. I'll be surprised to see it ever catch up. Just a reminder, this 346 does have a popup for whatever that's worth.



Well. . . 20% is just too much to overcome. Best just mail the saw to me, and I'll dispose of it for you. :monkey:

:greenchainsaw:


----------



## blsnelling (Jul 1, 2010)

rms61moparman said:


> The OTHER consideration is.................................the 350 has already SMOKED even YOUR 346 on a dollar for dollar basis.
> 
> What does a new 350 retail for anyway?
> 
> ...



Oh absolutely! This little 350 runs GREAT!! It's honestly as much saw as most anyone would ever need. I ran a tank through it working on that huge Oak tonight. It's very impressive for it's size. The way it sits right now, I only have $35 in this saw. The carb swap will run me about $85. Rim and spur will be about $20.


----------



## rms61moparman (Jul 1, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Oh absolutely! This little 350 runs GREAT!! It's honestly as much saw as most anyone would ever need. I ran a tank through it working on that huge Oak tonight. It's very impressive for it's size. The way it sits right now, I only have $35 in this saw. The carb swap will run me about $85. Rim and spur will be about $20.






And the carb swap is just you experimenting!
It doesn't NEED it.

Mine won't run with yours I'm sure, but I've got less than $75.00 in it including a new bar and chain, and it put a BIG smile on my face!


Mike


----------



## blsnelling (Jul 1, 2010)

rms61moparman said:


> And the carb swap is just you experimenting!
> It doesn't NEED it.
> 
> Mike



Exactly. I can always remove it and sell it to someone wanting to hotrod their 346. Or someone with a fautly Walbro on their 359. But yes, I want to see what it will do for it.


----------



## parrisw (Jul 1, 2010)

Those saws sure look good brad. Makes me want to port my 357xp.


----------



## wigglesworth (Jul 1, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> It's honestly as much saw as most anyone would ever need.



ROFL!!!! Maybe for somebody who doesnt "need" any.....:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## blsnelling (Jul 1, 2010)

wigglesworth said:


> ROFL!!!! Maybe for somebody who doesnt "need" any.....:hmm3grin2orange:



OK....................it's more saw than I need


----------



## ronT2 (Jul 2, 2010)

Looks and sounds like its running great. I haven’t tried to squeeze that many RPMs out mine yet. Mine is four stroking a hell of a lot more out of the cut. Is the 346 you’re comparing it to the one in this thread? If so I’d like to see how it would compare to a stock 346 in timed cuts. I’ve only run a stock 346 once but would say a modded 350/2150 would keep up with it easily.


----------



## blsnelling (Jul 2, 2010)

No, this is a different 346. The one it that thread was built for someone else. This is my personal saw.


----------



## blsnelling (Jul 7, 2010)

I popped the 357 carb and filter on the 350 this evening. It tunes really odd. If left at WOT, it'll go lean no matter how rich you go with the needle, but it doesn't seem to do this in the wood. Not sure what's up with that. The original 350 carb didn't seem to do this. I'll probably swap them back just to check and make sure.

The weather today is much hotter and humid than the other day, but still cut a measurably better time. I gained about another 8%. I still haven't gotten the 288 deflectors, so the muffler is still not as open as the 346. The best time on the 346 was 4.10. My best on the 350 so far is 4.98.


<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/uOY1nhg2rVo&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/uOY1nhg2rVo&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>


----------



## rms61moparman (Jul 7, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I popped the 357 carb and filter on the 350 this evening. It tunes really odd. If left at WOT, it'll go lean no matter how rich you go with the needle, but it doesn't seem to do this in the wood. Not sure what's up with that. The original 350 carb didn't seem to do this. I'll probably swap them back just to check and make sure.
> 
> The weather today is much hotter and humid than the other day, but still cut a measurably better time. I gained about another 8%. I still haven't gotten the 288 deflectors, so the muffler is still not as open as the 346. The best time on the 346 was 4.10. My best on the 350 so far is 4.98.
> 
> ...






What was your worst on the 346?
I still say that they make an impressive saw done up that way.


Mike


----------



## blsnelling (Jul 7, 2010)

rms61moparman said:


> What was your worst on the 346?
> I still say that they make an impressive saw done up that way.



The 346 cut a 4.10, 4.15, and 4.33. It doesn't matter how you run it, it just pulls. Reguardless though, this little 350 runs great. 

I put the more open muffler from my 346 on the 350. Times actually went up a hair. I was surprised. The first two cuts in this vid are this setup.

The 357 carb continued to let the saw go lean when held at WOT so I swapped back to the 350 carb. The odd symptom was immediately gone. All cuts after the first two are back with the 350 carb. You'll hear me hold it at WOT in the vid, and it holds a nice steady 4-stroke. The 357 carb is a little faster, but the 350 is more user friendly on this saw, so it will stay on the saw.


<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/QEuvGO_7tK8&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1?rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/QEuvGO_7tK8&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1?rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>


----------



## edisto (Jul 7, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> The 357 carb continued to let the saw go lean when held at WOT so I swapped back to the 350 carb. The odd symptom was immediately gone.



Does the 357 carb have a bigger bore? Air moves more slowly through a larger venturi, and sometimes can't pull enough fuel through.


----------



## blsnelling (Jul 7, 2010)

edisto said:


> Does the 357 carb have a bigger bore? Air moves more slowly through a larger venturi, and sometimes can't pull enough fuel through.



Yes, it is bigger. The actual numbers are somewhere back in this thread. It's somewhere around 1.5-2mm larger.


----------



## Andyshine77 (Jul 8, 2010)

edisto said:


> Does the 357 carb have a bigger bore? Air moves more slowly through a larger venturi, and sometimes can't pull enough fuel through.



That makes sense, less pressure change.


----------



## Tiger Rag (Jul 8, 2010)

Thanks for another great build post Brad. Very interesting to keep tabs on them!


----------



## ronT2 (Jul 8, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> The 346 cut a 4.10, 4.15, and 4.33. It doesn't matter how you run it, it just pulls. Reguardless though, this little 350 runs great.
> 
> I put the more open muffler from my 346 on the 350. Times actually went up a hair. I was surprised. The first two cuts in this vid are this setup.
> 
> *The 357 carb continued to let the saw go lean when held at WOT *so I swapped back to the 350 carb. The odd symptom was immediately gone. All cuts after the first two are back with the 350 carb. You'll hear me hold it at WOT in the vid, and it holds a nice steady 4-stroke. The 357 carb is a little faster, but the 350 is more user friendly on this saw, so it will stay on the saw.



I haven't had that problem with the HDA-175 on my 2150. I do have an EL-42, someday I'll have to do a swap and see what happens. Maybe the Walbro can meter a little better at lower pressures?


----------



## The Lawn Shark (Aug 1, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/-2iaraCio08&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/-2iaraCio08&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>



Brad,
What kind of wood is that and is that a 16" bar?

-Shane


----------



## blsnelling (Aug 1, 2010)

The Lawn Shark said:


> Brad,
> What kind of wood is that and is that a 16" bar?
> 
> -Shane



Pin Oak, I believe. Yes, it's a 16" bar.


----------



## The Lawn Shark (Aug 1, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Pin Oak, I believe. Yes, it's a 16" bar.



Thanks,

-Shane


----------



## blsnelling (Aug 11, 2010)

This saw is now for sale, if anyone's interested. I have the original carb back on it, since that's how it runs best. I'll have some pics from today here in a few minutes.


----------



## blsnelling (Aug 11, 2010)

The price is $200 + shipping. It's an 18" .325 .050 bar and semi-chisel chain. There is a very small crack in the plastic shroud above the muffler.













Label is a little loose.


----------



## blsnelling (Aug 11, 2010)




----------



## Tiger Rag (Aug 11, 2010)

That's a deal the way that saw runs!


----------



## blsnelling (Aug 11, 2010)

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Iky0-t4D7Dw&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1?rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Iky0-t4D7Dw&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1?rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>


----------



## sunfish (Aug 11, 2010)

Great thread, Brad! Someone is goin to get a nice little hot rod


----------



## blsnelling (Aug 11, 2010)

It's sold. Payment received.


----------



## banshee67 (Aug 11, 2010)

mine doesnt cut like that


----------



## 16:1mix (Aug 11, 2010)

Thanks for the tour Brad!


----------



## fredmc (Aug 11, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Yes, it's 45mm. I think they went to that in 2003 with the EPA version, correct? So are you telling me that yours has a smaller cylinder than mine? My, oh my, oh my
> 
> 
> Yes they're flat. It's ported no differently than many other a saw I've ported. The transfers on my 346 are probably wider.



Isn't the smaller 44mm a 351 open port? right?


----------



## edisto (Aug 13, 2010)

What happens in the vid at 0:43?


----------



## blsnelling (Aug 14, 2010)

edisto said:


> What happens in the vid at 0:43?



Taking load off the engine to make sure it's not going lean. I constantly check my tune. I had just split the base of this saw and sealed it up after an air leak between the two halves.


----------



## SawGarage (Oct 25, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Port timing on this saw was as follows.
> 
> Exhaust 104°
> Transfers 125°
> ...



Brad,

as in the exhaust *DURATION* is/was 152 deg

and intake*DURATION* was 140, and now 160 deg?

thanks


----------



## blsnelling (Oct 25, 2010)

SawGarage said:


> Brad,
> 
> as in the exhaust *DURATION* is/was 152 deg
> 
> ...



That is correct. I increase intake duration to 160°.


----------



## SawGarage (Oct 25, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> That is correct. I increase intake duration to 160°.



awesome build, btw. I failed to compliment on the 1st post  

I have a 44mm jug that pulled 170 psi with no base gasket with (what I thought) a BAD score. Score was so deep, the acid started to eat away alum around the exhaust port, but up higher it almost honed away! (still yet to finished the 42 i posted about...)
the 44 is open t-fer. the 45mm is closed w/ the removable covers.


What are your thoughts on TOO MUCH int. duration....say if you had lowered int. port to the impulse inlet? did you lower int. at all, or just trim piston??

It almost seems the 350 has a TON of int duration, compared to bigger saws. I suppose I have some more reading to do, but thoughts as to why, over, say, a 272 or a 372??

what would TOO MUCH int duration cause/create? 

Thanks!! 




OH, I woulda LOVED to buy that saw! boohoo. I just saw this while searching...


:hmm3grin2orange:Jay


----------



## parrisw (Oct 25, 2010)

SawGarage said:


> awesome build, btw. I failed to compliment on the 1st post
> 
> I have a 44mm jug that pulled 170 psi with no base gasket with (what I thought) a BAD score. Score was so deep, the acid started to eat away alum around the exhaust port, but up higher it almost honed away! (still yet to finished the 42 i posted about...)
> the 44 is open t-fer. the 45mm is closed w/ the removable covers.
> ...



I think you'll get allot of spitback if you have too much intake duration.


----------



## SawGarage (Oct 26, 2010)

parrisw said:


> I think you'll get allot of spitback if you have too much intake duration.



I'm just surprised @ how much INT Duration the 350 has now...is that a little saw thing??

spit back at high RPM = loss of fuel charge, and tough to tune, I'd think??

Doesn't sound fun...

Although, I have seen STOCK saws do that...maybe just cause the air cleaner was off.. 

thanks for the input Will...picked up a couple parts/pieces of 372 today for ya...

J


----------



## blsnelling (Oct 26, 2010)

Most all of these saws have 14x°-15x° intake duration.


----------



## parrisw (Oct 26, 2010)

SawGarage said:


> I'm just surprised @ how much INT Duration the 350 has now...is that a little saw thing??
> 
> spit back at high RPM = loss of fuel charge, and tough to tune, I'd think??
> 
> ...



Nice! I love those 372's!


----------



## SawGarage (Oct 26, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Most all of these saws have 14x°-15x° intake duration.





blsnelling said:


> Most all of these saws have 14x°-15x° intake duration.



Meaning 340/345/346/350/351/353 series?

Thoughts as to why? They obviously run DAMN good...just lookin for some theory thoughts....






parrisw said:


> Nice! I love those 372's!




got any spare parts??  needin a muffler, brake handle, recoil, CRANK and clutch cover...I'll have extras of other parts...


----------



## parrisw (Oct 26, 2010)

SawGarage said:


> Meaning 340/345/346/350/351/353 series?
> 
> Thoughts as to why? They obviously run DAMN good...just lookin for some theory thoughts....
> 
> ...




I have a clutch cover looks like chit though. Should have an extra brake handle, I also have an extra muffler, its got a dual outlet on the front. I need a full wrap he he he, clutch bearing, washer and c-clip.


----------



## blsnelling (Oct 26, 2010)

SawGarage said:


> Meaning 340/345/346/350/351/353 series?
> 
> Thoughts as to why? They obviously run DAMN good...just lookin for some theory thoughts....



No, meaning nearly ALL modern saws. There's nothing unusual at all about the intake duration on these saws.


----------



## SawGarage (Oct 26, 2010)

parrisw said:


> I have a clutch cover looks like chit though. Should have an extra brake handle, I also have an extra muffler, its got a dual outlet on the front. I need a full wrap he he he, clutch bearing, washer and c-clip.



OH!!! custom exhaust! lol

why would you needIhaveanewa full wrap handle? I would think they are plentiful up there... I've nevercan'tbelieveIfound a full wrap saw round here...hewer anyway...

What is up with the cover? needing a repaint??




blsnelling said:


> No, meaning nearly ALL modern saws. There's nothing unusual at all about the intake duration on these saws.




I found duration on the 268/272 to be right @ 140...thought the 350 was CRAZY high, comparatively...


----------



## blsnelling (Oct 26, 2010)

SawGarage said:


> I found duration on the 268/272 to be right @ 140...thought the 350 was CRAZY high, comparatively...



And the intake on this 350 was 140° as well.


----------



## SawGarage (Oct 26, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> And the intake on this 350 was 140° as well.



Right....DUH. :monkey: Was that pre-gasket removal??

so, now @ 160...any neg affects of +20 deg duration??


----------



## parrisw (Oct 27, 2010)

SawGarage said:


> OH!!! custom exhaust! lol
> 
> why would you needIhaveanewa full wrap handle? I would think they are plentiful up there... I've nevercan'tbelieveIfound a full wrap saw round here...hewer anyway...
> 
> What is up with the cover? needing a repaint??



Ya needs repaint. Yes allot of saws around here have full wraps. Just the last 2 saws I got had half wrap.


----------



## slipknot (Jul 19, 2011)

now this is the htread ive been loking for...not sure why i couldn't find it in the search function.....thanks to a fellow member for pointing me to this awesome thread....i got a 350 that will run like that....but i didnt port it...i just put it together.


----------



## modder (Sep 2, 2013)

*Bringing this one back, i hope....*

I was searching through looking for some pic's of a ported 2150 cylinder to see how far you can go with porting them, and this thread fits well with what I want to do with mine. Well mine is the red version, but the same saw, other than the plastics. I have to swap the body to another one I have laying around because this one has a melted body from a loose muffler. The pic's are great in this thread and will help guide me on my own porting job. I plan on using a walbro 199 from a 357xp and will see if it works better than the zama. I didn't get the 353 piston yet but some will be glad to hear Meteor now sells an aftermarket 353 piston. I noticed that bsnelling had to use one from a 51 husky instead. I shaved 1mm from the top of the factory dish top piston, and 1.5mm from the riser to increase compression a bit for now. I will also be tossing the base gasket so I will need to check my squish again, but it should be ok. I have also smoothed out the flow on the riser and removed the transfer dividers on it to promote better flow. I haven't heard of anyone doing port work to the riser before (as in removing the transfer dividers and smoothing things out) but thought I'd try it and see what happens. I will post some pic's soon and more as I go if anyone is interested in seeing an amature at work.


----------



## old-cat (Sep 2, 2013)

Start a new thread, all your own!:msp_ohmy:


----------



## modder (Sep 2, 2013)

I thought of that but figured members would like to see the other pic's from the real saw builder to see what it should look like. I'm sure mine will not come out as well, but if I am suppose to start my own thread, I will.


----------

