# Help! Central Boiler 5036 or Woodmaster 4400



## jazz3ring (Feb 27, 2009)

I am new to this site and am asking for your experiences and opinions on the CB 5036 and the Woodmaster 4400. I am getting close to purchasing an OWB and have narrowed it down to the 5036 or the 4400. Both of my local dealers are top notch and take care of their customers. The pricing will be close enough on these two units with the factory rebate that CB has going on now that price will not factor into my decision. The 5036 will cost less than the 4400 by a few hundred dollars. I am going to try and make my decision based on the quality, longevity, and efficiency of these two units. 
I am aware of some of the differences in these units such as natural draft and rear exit chimney on the CB compared to forced draft and top exit chimney on the Woodmaster. Are there any other major differences? With the experiences that you have had with either of these units which do you recommend and why? Thanks


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## woodshed (Feb 27, 2009)

Central Boiler is the standard by which all others are compared. The Woodmaster design is inferior in my eyes, not as efficient or user friendly as the CB Classic. I have done alot of research on all makes and models n my search and I ended up with a new CB E-Classic. My brother has the 6048 Classic and has had zero issues in 4 seasons.

Scott


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## MAD (Feb 27, 2009)

*C Boiler 5036*

I have a 5036. Been using it for 3 years. Works OK if you are going to burn wood. My weak point has been the circulation pumps. The TACO pumps just haven't worked well for me. I am going to change to a Bell&Gossett pump.
Peace,beeler


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## November Wolf (Feb 27, 2009)

I would go with the Central Boiler. I was in your shoes back in the fall and it was between the same models you are looking at. I went with the next size up and got the CB 6048. It has exceded my expectations. It heats my home 2200 sf and DHW and I get 24 hour burns everyday loaded less than half full of seasoned maple.


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## Marklambert61 (Feb 27, 2009)

*Heatmor*

You should look at a Heatmor before you buy..

Many advantages

409 Stainless
Lifetime warranty
Ash auger
Pressure Balder
Open bottom fire box W/Fire brick

Just do your homework a boiler is a big purchase.

Mark


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## barnyardman (Feb 27, 2009)

Love my Heatmor


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## Chuck Diesel (Feb 27, 2009)

Woodmaster 4400 is what I went with 4 years ago and have had no complaits or problems. I'm heating 3600 sq. and H2O. There both really good boiliers, and both companies stand behind their units. Good Luck Charlie


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## weldfab79 (Feb 27, 2009)

I'm on my fourth season on my 4400 and really like it. If you go with the 4400 get the ash auger I have hard people having auger problems but I haven't. I burn strictly wood. Either brand will serve you well for many years if properly maintained. good luck.


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## ms310 (Feb 27, 2009)

Marklambert61 said:


> You should look at a Heatmor before you buy..
> 
> Many advantages
> 
> ...



I will agree with mark, also if you cant get enough of cutting wood you may want to stay with the cb or wm, or if you are buying wood and really like your wood supplier better then money in your wallet you may want a cb or wm. Now if you want to cut the least amount of wood, and be able to burn green wood in a pinch you may want to buy a heatmor, but i guess you know better than us what you want out of a OWB. Also if you like the electronic crap that always breaks you may want the cb....Just my .02c


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## mimilkman1 (Feb 27, 2009)

ms310 said:


> I will agree with mark, also if you cant get enough of cutting wood you may want to stay with the cb or wm, or if you are buying wood and really like your wood supplier better then money in your wallet you may want a cb or wm. Now if you want to cut the least amount of wood, and be able to burn green wood in a pinch you may want to buy a heatmor, but i guess you know better than us what you want out of a OWB. Also if you like the electronic crap that always breaks you may want the cb....Just my .02c



There are fewer electronic components in a CB vs a Heatmor or Woodmaster. I am on my third full season and never had a lick of trouble with electric components. Very happy with the CB 5036.

Kyle


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## Orion2 (Feb 27, 2009)

my first year with the Woodmaster 4400, have not had any problems or complaints, I did not buy the auger, not sure if I will, seems like shoveling out the coals every two or three weeks is not an issue for me. I looked at the Classics, too be honest I felt more comfortable with the woodmaster dealer, we did the whole deal on a handshake, he still helps out with questions when I have them.


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## November Wolf (Feb 27, 2009)

ms310 said:


> I will agree with mark, also if you cant get enough of cutting wood you may want to stay with the cb or wm, or if you are buying wood and really like your wood supplier better then money in your wallet you may want a cb or wm. Now if you want to cut the least amount of wood, and be able to burn green wood in a pinch you may want to buy a heatmor, but i guess you know better than us what you want out of a OWB. Also if you like the electronic crap that always breaks you may want the cb....Just my .02c




The only electronic thing on my central boiler boiler is a digital temperature controller which I think is kind of nice because I can see the temp readout from a distance. 

I did'nt know the Heatmor could burn green wood better than a central. That just does not make any sence. 

I would stay away from a stainless boiler. Too many problems and stainless has less heat transfer.


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## ms310 (Feb 28, 2009)

All my Central and Wood master guys insist that there wood needs to be seasoned in order for it to burn. They do not have forced air induction like it std with a heatmor. They also dont have A grate that holds the wood up for the air to blow under it to burn the wood and let the ashes fall into the ash auger trough std. if you add up all the features that are std on a heatmor including the fire brick, and the stainless stell that has nickel in it so it doesnt crack like the cheap stainless you cant beat it. I will also tell you that the people that i sell wood to that have a heatmor Owb use less wood. That is what i see on a consitant basis to the people i sell wood to. I will tell you this also, any OWB is a good investment no matter wich one it is it is still cheaper than filling that pig all the time. One more thing dont let the fiberglass insulation scare you either, i have snow on the roof of mine when it is running, and if there ever is a problem i would much rather deal with removing that fiberglass then that spray on crap, and with the fiberglass the metal can breath and not trap the moisture in between the insulation causing rot. again just my .02c


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## RuralCruiser007 (Feb 28, 2009)

ms310 said:


> All my Central and Wood master guys insist that there wood needs to be seasoned in order for it to burn. They do not have forced air induction like it std with a heatmor. They also dont have A grate that holds the wood up for the air to blow under it to burn the wood and let the ashes fall into the ash auger trough std. if you add up all the features that are std on a heatmor including the fire brick, and the stainless stell that has nickel in it so it doesnt crack like the cheap stainless you cant beat it. I will also tell you that the people that i sell wood to that have a heatmor Owb use less wood. That is what i see on a consitant basis to the people i sell wood to. I will tell you this also, any OWB is a good investment no matter wich one it is it is still cheaper than filling that pig all the time. One more thing dont let the fiberglass insulation scare you either, i have snow on the roof of mine when it is running, and if there ever is a problem i would much rather deal with removing that fiberglass then that spray on crap, and with the fiberglass the metal can breath and not trap the moisture in between the insulation causing rot. again just my .02c




The questions that have been brought up have made me think of numerious questions to be asked. BTW- This is just me thinking out loud. 

With dealing with insulation, rather than fiberglass, why not go with something like "Ruxul" insulation. Water does not go into the insulation, but instead, beads off of the insulation. I know that this now asks that the metal of the boiler be prepped with a coating like "paint" so the water beads off of it. 

Yes, spray foam seals the outer layer of the boiler, but water is a very intrusive commodity that you don't know what it is going to do. One of the biggest problems with spray foam, ofter the fact of having a leak, is dealing with a leak. How far have you got to go to find the source of the leak? 

Now once you have found the leak, what other hydrocarbons have been introduced to the leak area due to the source of sealing properties(paint, foam, water, additives to the water, metal compound reaction)? 

I don't mean to go so in depth, but as someone who wants to build his own outdoor wood boiler, these questions and probably answers have to be answered. Yes I know that I will have "company" responses, but if truly want a true lifetime warranty, BUILD IT YOURSELF AND FIX IT YOURSELF!

PS: This is not in any way meant to get anyones dander up, just something that has to be thought of in the variances of wood boilers.


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## John D (Feb 28, 2009)

Given your choices,and the better price on the CB with the rebate,this seems like a no brainer,get the C-B! If burning green wood is an issue for you,CB has a forced blower option that replaced the draft only,my uncle has them on both his 6048's,it is only about $125 option,with the rebate,it still is a great deal. As for heatmor,they are nice,but id be very afraid of stainless.There warranty backs up the idea that they dont expect a long life,as the pro rating is down to 10% of the value at yr 10 of the warranty ,and beyond.


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## bowtechmadman (Feb 28, 2009)

I'm betting you will be happy w/ either. I made the decision to go Woodmaster 5500 5 yrs ago b/c I liked the dealer better.


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## jcappe (Feb 28, 2009)

I went with the Woodmaster 4400. No complaints at all so far. I looked at the Central Boilers and Woodmasters both since I had dealers for both within 20 minutes. The Central dealer didn't impress me the Woodmaster dealer did. If they would have both been close in price and I liked both dealers I would have probably tossed a coin to see which one I was going to buy. I will say one thing on the 4400. Right now I am burning freshly cut wood as green as it gets and I'm not sure how easily you can do that with a CB maybe it's not a problem in them either but I would guess the fan helps me along a bit on that. Good Luck, I think either way you go you'll be happy.


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## jazz3ring (Mar 1, 2009)

Thanks for the replies. It seems as though both CB and WM owners are happy with their units and only have positive things to say. My local WM dealer stoppeed over today and gave me a concrete price for unit, parts, and installation. My CB dealer is doing the same tomorrow.

I have two questions that I am looking for help on. The first one is that the CB literature says that their units use 25% to 70% less wood than other brands. Does anybody have any "real" evidence if this is true or not? For instance do you have a CB and a neighbor have a WM or vice versa with similiar sized and insulated houses burning similiar types of wood to really get a feel on wood consumption between CB and WM?

My other question involves the water capacity of the CB and WM. The CB dealer told me that the 5036 is "rated" for 3000 square feet while holding 196 gallons of water and the 6048 is "rated" for 6000 square feet while holding 393 gallons of water. The WM dealer told me that the 4400 is "rated" for 5000 square feet but only holds 117 gallons of water. According to this data the 4400 heats with a much lower ratio of water to square footage. How does the WM do this and is it "good or bad?" What are the pros and cons to more/less water? Thanks


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## aboveaverage (Mar 1, 2009)

yea i would have to say cb, i did a little reasearch a few years ago when i bought mine, and the heatmor if i remember correctly had to be filled with wood like every 4-6 hours, dont quote me without looking, but as for green wood, as long as i have a good hot fire going i have never had a problem burning green wood, usually if i have to burn green i try to mix it.


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## aboveaverage (Mar 1, 2009)

jazz3ring said:


> Thanks for the replies. It seems as though both CB and WM owners are happy with their units and only have positive things to say. My local WM dealer stoppeed over today and gave me a concrete price for unit, parts, and installation. My CB dealer is doing the same tomorrow.
> 
> I have two questions that I am looking for help on. The first one is that the CB literature says that their units use 25% to 70% less wood than other brands. Does anybody have any "real" evidence if this is true or not? For instance do you have a CB and a neighbor have a WM or vice versa with similiar sized and insulated houses burning similiar types of wood to really get a feel on wood consumption between CB and WM?
> 
> My other question involves the water capacity of the CB and WM. The CB dealer told me that the 5036 is "rated" for 3000 square feet while holding 196 gallons of water and the 6048 is "rated" for 6000 square feet while holding 393 gallons of water. The WM dealer told me that the 4400 is "rated" for 5000 square feet but only holds 117 gallons of water. According to this data the 4400 heats with a much lower ratio of water to square footage. How does the WM do this and is it "good or bad?" What are the pros and cons to more/less water? Thanks



less water cools off faster if the fire goes out, lol the cb has more heating surface area i believe, and yes the farm on the other side of the hill from me, is a good friend of mine and the father has a cb at his house and the wm WAS at the farm, they burned through so much wood at the farm it was nuts and all they were heating was the parlor, the problem is the wm has the flue right out the top, so all the heat just runs out, cb has a baffle in the back, like i said i love mine, i wouldnt trade it for anything. if you want pics i can get you some of mine.


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## John D (Mar 1, 2009)

jazz3ring said:


> Thanks for the replies. It seems as though both CB and WM owners are happy with their units and only have positive things to say. My local WM dealer stoppeed over today and gave me a concrete price for unit, parts, and installation. My CB dealer is doing the same tomorrow.
> 
> I have two questions that I am looking for help on. The first one is that the CB literature says that their units use 25% to 70% less wood than other brands. Does anybody have any "real" evidence if this is true or not? For instance do you have a CB and a neighbor have a WM or vice versa with similiar sized and insulated houses burning similiar types of wood to really get a feel on wood consumption between CB and WM?
> 
> My other question involves the water capacity of the CB and WM. The CB dealer told me that the 5036 is "rated" for 3000 square feet while holding 196 gallons of water and the 6048 is "rated" for 6000 square feet while holding 393 gallons of water. The WM dealer told me that the 4400 is "rated" for 5000 square feet but only holds 117 gallons of water. According to this data the 4400 heats with a much lower ratio of water to square footage. How does the WM do this and is it "good or bad?" What are the pros and cons to more/less water? Thanks



The WM cant heat as much with less water,and yes it is bad to have less water capacity,since it is your storage system,you want the ability to store more heat at a time.This is just my opinion,your crazy if you go with the WM,your getting so much more with the CB,you will enjoy longer burn times,and less need to load it based on the water capacity alone.It holds almost 50% more water.CB also is VERY conservative in there ratings.I have a friend who heats with a 5036 and his house is drafty and older,around 3K sq ft,and it easily heats it.You need to compare the next size up WM to the CB,as the one that holds 117 gallons is much smaller.
I will tell you this, Shaver recommended a 165 for my home,which is 3000 sq ft.even when i put in a colder climate on the computer matching system on there site,it still said a 165. The 165 is rated for 4000sq ft and holds 165 gallons of water.I went with the next larger unit a 250,which is rated for 5500 sq ft,and holds 230 gallons of water.I thought Id be safe with a one size bigger. I talked to 2 different CB dealers,both told me i needed the 6048 which held 393 gallons,both said the 5036 would heat my home,but didnt recommend it as it didnt have enough to give me long burn times,and Id be at the limit. Having now had my Shaver almost 3 months,if i could do it over again,I would have bought the CB6048,it would have been perfect,just like they said.I went with a bigger shaver than they told me i needed,and if i had to buy another shaver,id go 2 sizes bigger,with the 340 just for the water capacity,at 310 gallons.You will never say,boy i wish this OWB was smaller,you cant ever go wrong with a bigger unit that holds more water.


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## mtfallsmikey (Mar 2, 2009)

:agree2::agree2::agree2:


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## jcappe (Mar 2, 2009)

I believe you can get by with less water capacity of the WM because of the fan. Obviously the CB will hold heat longer but it also takes longer once the draft door opens to heat that much water back up to temp. My WM is set to come on at 160 and off at 170. Unless it is really cold it only takes a couple of minutes to heat the 117 gallons of water back up to 170. Like I said before you will like either one of the two brands you are looking at.


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## aboveaverage (Mar 2, 2009)

well, ill say this, everyone pushes the fan down your throat, but its kills your efficiency, my cb 5036 heats my drafty old 3000sqft farm house just fine the only problem i have is when its below zero at night and one room in the house that is especially drafty will drop a degree or two. i have never had a problem with not having the blower on the fire, as far as taking longer for the water to come up to temp, when its real cold i have it set to 195, i know its a bit high but i turn it down a bit when it warms up, the lower you can set the temp, the more efficient it is.


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## Blazin (Mar 3, 2009)

Central boiler 5648 burnin here heating 6000sq ft (3 buildings) for 4 years, never skipped a beat yet! The fan forced draft like others said is a load of BS, and not needed on a CB unless you feel the need to blow half your wood up the chimmney! Green wood.... I burn alot of it and never have a problem as long as there is a decent coal bed under it. I would recommend going to the 6048 for more water storage and wood capacity which would up your burn times some, but I'd say you won't be dissapointed in either model.


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## LadyToysDream (Mar 4, 2009)

Last spring , we decided we were going to get a OWB. 
After a bit of looking around, we decided on a CB 5036. 
Hubby's Dad liked our unit, and he went with the next size bigger.
We are both happy households  

My hubby has put some green wood in ours. No problems here. 
We only burn wood in ours, nothing else, like paper or cardboard. 
I want to say we have burned between 4 to 5 full cords since September of 
last year. About 1250 sq ft and leaving the inside temp at 77 degrees. 
It also heats our domestic hot water. I think he wants to run it year round because he sure enjoys having all kinds of hot water. I like it because we now use less electric each month.


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## mtfallsmikey (Mar 5, 2009)

LTD: Guess you got everything straightened out?...you have had your share of problems.


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## LadyToysDream (Mar 5, 2009)

mtfallsmikey  yes, everything is good now. 

Dad's machine has been good since day one, no problems there. 
He is using more wood than us, but is heating 2 buildings, and they use 
a lot more domestic hot water than us. They have a household of 5 though because 2 daughters and 1 granddaughter moved back home. 

We had problems for about 2 months on and off, because it was a indoor wiring problem but that was NOT a problem with the OWB itself. Our plumber friend made a mistake when he hooked into our inside propane furnace set up. Our blower fan was on more than off there for awhile.

Other problem was that the OWB itself was steaming/venting off at the top opening every once in awhile. We could not fiqure out it's problem because there was no real pattern. Finally after a week of daily calling the dealer, we got him physically here, and he checked things over, and only adjustment was our door handle. When they say, it takes 2 hands to shut it, that's what it means. At least with ours. And I was outside with him when he got here, so I know what he was adjusting. So because of that simple adjustment , we are using less wood also. 
We have bought a tri axle of logs, and will have some left over from this year, so we are ready for next winter. 
:greenchainsaw:


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