# TWO brand new Huskee 22 Ton splitters with Kohler SH265 problems



## chrisp929 (May 4, 2014)

Hello all, 

I think this may be my first or second post. I frequently google things online and i always seem to find my answers HERE on this site. So THANK YOU. 

I came here to tell you all a story. 

I put in a Jotul c450 wood stove instert in my house a year ago. All this past winter i have been burning pure suger maple from my father urban property. I hired a family member who owns a tree service to cut the maples down, buck them to 18" lengths and clean up the rest. I split 13 pallets of sugar maple all by myself over 2 weeks with a friends splitter and burned maple all this past winter long. It was great to have a cozy home in the middle of the worst winter i can remember.

I loved the 'homesteader' aspect of firewood burning, and having an emergency source of heat in the winter. So a couple weeks ago i googled the Huskee 22 ton splitter and found reviews, many of which were from this site and Hearth. Most people only complained about the hard starting of the cruddy Briggs engine but loved the splitter. I heard that the newest version of this splitter just came out and was basically what i consider to be Gen 3. It has a Kohler engine, built in log cradle, and they moved the engine to the driver side away from your legs when splitting horizontally. I decided to spend my hard earned cash on one of these as i can not afford an Iron and Oak at $2,600+. SIGH. 

I will preface this following part with the fact that short of building engines from scratch, I am VERY mechanically inclined. 

On April 29th of this year ( 6 days ago) i purchased a Huskee 22 Ton Splitter with Kohler SH265 engine from a Tractor Supply in Troy, N.Y. After bringing it home and setting it up, i ran it and split wood for probably a couple hours. The Kohler engine was VERY hard to start. Once it started, it seemed to run fine and also seemed to be powerful enough to run this splitter. Initially i thought it was a great combination but was VERY weary of the hard start. I figured there may not have been gas in the float and i chalked it up to a new dry engine. 
Today i go to strart the engine for the 2nd time and it won't start easily again. It takes many pulls, and much playing with the choke to finally get it to turn over. Once it did, it would constantly surge. Nothing i did made a difference. At one point i was playing with the choke while the engine was already warm and at one point i thought i had it figured out. I moved the choke about half way, and the the surging stopped. Then a couple seconds later it came back. I know this seems to be a carb problem but for the money i spent, it should work out of the box. I wasn't about to tear into a brand new carb on a brand new engine on a brand new $1,000 splitter.
It was 6 pm when i called Tractor Supply back. They said since i bought it within the last week to bring it back in exchange for a new one or have it serviced at a local engine shop they contract to. I chose to swap mine out with a completely new splitter. I was home with my new splitter by 7:15. 
Having been completely disappointed at this point, i figured that it was a fluke and it couldn't possibly happen again. So i go to start this thing and i must have pulled 50 times and nothing. Choke in all the way, choke out all the way, half way, throttle down all the way, up all the way, half way. You name it i tried it. Nothing. Short small unburnt mists of gas were coating the mufflers exhaust tube but no fire. So i pull the plug. Plug is set at .025 when it should be .030. So i figured ahah, lets fix that. After setting the gap, i pulled another 15 or 20 times and finally it came to life. It started RIGHT OFF THE BAT with the surging. I added more of my own fresh gas to what was in their thinking bad gas. NOPE. Still surging. 
YOU HAVE TO BE KIDDING ME. 

The reason i finally busted out the $1,000 was because i read a thread from here on a google search that the engines on the new 22 ton splitters were Chinese made Kohlers which are at least cast iron sleeved etc. 
So i bust open the included manual which is a soft cover at 123 pages long. Great, i'll fix this. NOPE, its 5 pages long, in eleventeen different languages. So the manual directs me to kohlerengines.com where i read that the high idle speed is set at factory and only the low idle speed screw is adjustable. Now its 8:30pm by now so i can't go running an engine in the dark in my neighborhood without pissing off my good neighbors. Here it is 9:08pm and I'm writing this to you all to tell you WHAT A PIECE OF CRAP this engine is. And to top it off, it doesn't look like i can upgrade to a plug in starter like on some newer snow blower engines. 

My next step is to attempt to adjust the low idle screw after work tomorrow and see if that helps. If not, i think I will be returning the splitter and finding something better when i can afford it. My other option is to allow Tractor Supply to send it off to a local engine shop to try to fix. I will determine if i will allow that on 2 conditions. 
1. If i GAT DANG feel like it tomorrow. 
2. If they refund my money IN FULL if it's not fixed once returned from the shop. 

The onlline service manual has a section that claims hard starts, poor running and something else can be attributed to a poor low idle screw adjustment. Let's all hope this is an easy fix. If not, i urge everyone here NOT TO BUY the 22 ton splitter with Kohler engine. You will waste your time and aggravation. 

Thank you all for taking the time to read this. Stand by tomorrow evening for an update to my saga.


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## tomtrees58 (May 4, 2014)

go Honda engine


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## zogger (May 4, 2014)

Well, hope you get it sorted out.

Tell ya what I would do, make the store manager start the next one. This will get things moving when he can't start it. I would stand there in front of other customers and like "go ahead, show me how to start this thing". Go right down the dang line of splitters until you might maybe find one that starts and doesn't surge. Start with yours, take it back, I wouldn't *touch* a dang thing on it, it *should* start within a few pulls brand new with factory settings, or..what's the point? Make the box store get the full feel, then it might actually go upstream to tractor supply international and get something fixed. 

For the record,. I am a fan of Briggs, not so much Kohler or Tecumseh. In fact I will never buy another kohler or tecumseh, no thanks, way over priced and the quality ain't there like it was decades ago. . Never owned a honda or honda clone, so can't say. Do have a walk behind DR trimmer with a Kawasaki engine in it, starts easy, runs strong, a true oil pump engine.

They are all going to china anyway, so i think just eliminate the middle man and get a china brand small engine, why pay an extra $fee for having some "american" name on a chinese product? Again, what's the point?


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## Philbert (May 4, 2014)

Sorry for your problems. Thanks for sharing your experience. Hope it gets resolved. 

Phbert


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## dave_dj1 (May 4, 2014)

My brother bought one a couple of weeks back and he had one loose hose and the filter came off it. Since he fixed those things he's not had any more trouble with it.


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## chrisp929 (May 4, 2014)

FYI, i just looked up 'horizontal engine' on tractor supplys website and i found a 'speeco 212 cc boxed engine' which looks almost identical to this Kohler POS with the exception of minor plastic cosmetics like air cleaner housing. Seems someone paid Kohler rights to slap it's name on chinese junk and call it Kohler. 

The humanity !!!!!


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## blades (May 5, 2014)

Welcome to the new EPA regs on small engines. I have heard the same story on multiple brands of brand new equipment. With plastic carbs being the worst of the lot. Not restricted to Chi-com mfg. It seems that quality control only exists as something from the mists of a time long past.


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## Streblerm (May 5, 2014)

I have had several hard starting/surging engines from different manufacturers. This is usually caused by a partially blocked main jet. If the Kohler is set up like honda/clone engines then there is no external mixture adjustment, only minimum idle speed adjustment. There is one component that controls mixture and that is the main jet located at the top of the emulsion tube in the carburetor. It can usually be accessed by removing the fuel bowl which the carb still on the engine. 

If cleaning the main jet doesn't solve the problem then it needs to be slightly opened up with numbered drill bits in a pin vise. Less is more here. I wouldn't go more than 5-10% enlargement of the main jet at a time. If you go too big it will be too rich and you will start to lose some power or foul plugs. The main jets can be purchased separately if you go too far. 

They are put together lean from the factory. It doesn't take much to make them too lean to run right.


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## chrisp929 (May 5, 2014)

Thank you. I will at least clean the main jet tonite before i call tractor supply again.


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## Streblerm (May 5, 2014)

I have an inexpensive honda powered pressure washer. I bought it new. It always started hard and surged like a *****. The spark plug was bright white. After sitting one winter with some bad fuel in it it wouldn't start in the spring. When I pulled the main jet I found that it was much smaller than the size stamped on it. Since reaming it out it always starts with one pull choke on.


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## chrisp929 (May 5, 2014)

I dont know what the smallest drill bits i have is. What did you ream yours out with ?


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## NSMaple1 (May 5, 2014)

chrisp929 said:


> I dont know what the smallest drill bits i have is. What did you ream yours out with ?


 
Unless you have a machine shop, you likely won't have the right sized drill bit. These are smaller than what you buy at a regular hardware store. You likely would need to go to a place that sells machine tooling. We're talking something the size of a stiff wire brush bristle - although I don't know the exact size for this case. I wouldn't try it until you are very sure about the exact size, and know what you're doing - you don't just chuck these bits into a drill like you'd normally do.

I would take the splitter back and go from there, since it's new. Great if they want to try to start it themselves, but they'll likely just send it to their repair place.


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## Dirtboy (May 5, 2014)

Sorry to hear about your problems with the Kohler. The ones with the Briggs were fine units. If I were you I would return it to TSC, ask to speak to the manager. Its not the fault of the store employee if Speeco cheaped out on the engine, so politely ask if they have another unit there that they will fire up for you. If the problem persists with the one at the store, its time to get your $ back and look elsewhere.


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## chrisp929 (May 5, 2014)

Thank you streblerm VERY MUCH. 

I got it running tomite after work. 

The Kohler is in fact set up like the chonda carbs with one difference. Following removal of the main jet, a brass tube with holes in it sits atop the main set. 
Since i don't have super mini reamers, i chose the super redneck method. I chucked up a tooth pick with a fine point, rubbed it in some tooth paste and polished the main jet and brass tube that sits on top of the main jet. On high speed with pressure, i eventually got the toothpick to show a light black look to it which meant it was taking some brass off during polishing. After putting it all back together it started on the first pull. It runs about 90% now. Clearly this engine is starving for gas. It shows it by surging A lil bit at wide open throttle. I split half a cord in a couple hours. So i have three hours to go before an oil change. I guess it's a keeper. I will still buy a couple spare main jets and experiment. I want this thing running 100%. it's close but i want easy starting in the winter and it needs more fine tuning for that. 






On a lighter side, i came across a piece of metal while at work which i'll be using to weld up a home made log catcher. It's part of a fiber cable rack seen in telecom rooms in large buildings or telephone company central offices. Can't wait to start on the build. it's even powdercoated a cool 'safety orange' which should go well with the rest of the splitter. 





I really think the main jets have a manufacturing defect. Maybe the machine that makes these jets in china had a dull cutting bit or something. Two splitters with identical problems is not just coincidence. The date code on my splitter is 2014 so for those interested in one of these, consider what i went thru and what needs to be done to make this engine work right! 

Just want to thank you all again for all your help. I REALLY hope this thread i started helps the next guy with a similar problem.


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## Streblerm (May 6, 2014)

A toothpick and toothpaste, that is pretty inventive. A pin vise is just a holder for small drill bits. Mine came from my local full service hardware store and so did the bits. If you look very closely the size of the jet, in 1/10mm, should be stamped on it somewhere. That is a good place to start. A quick search on "honda main jet size" shows that the kart guys seem to favor a .035" or ~.88mm jet in the gx200 with a range of .033-.037". A numbered 63 drill bit is .037" and a 67 is .032"

Technically speaking you should drill the main jets in a drill press but I have always had good luck by hand with the pin vise. Just start one bit larger than whatever the larges bit that will fit and work your way up one size at a time.


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## philoshop (May 6, 2014)

Almost all of the 'cheaper' engines come from the factory with really crappy spark plugs as well. Changing to a quality plug might help.


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## chrisp929 (May 6, 2014)

This main jet had 65 scribed on it. Any clue what size that is ?


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## nathon918 (May 6, 2014)

Streblerm said:


> A toothpick and toothpaste, that is pretty inventive. A pin vise is just a holder for small drill bits. Mine came from my local full service hardware store and so did the bits. If you look very closely the size of the jet, in 1/10mm, should be stamped on it somewhere. That is a good place to start. A quick search on "honda main jet size" shows that the kart guys seem to favor a .035" or ~.88mm jet in the gx200 with a range of .033-.037". A numbered 63 drill bit is .037" and a 67 is .032"
> 
> Technically speaking you should drill the main jets in a drill press but I have always had good luck by hand with the pin vise. Just start one bit larger than whatever the larges bit that will fit and work your way up one size at a time.


another easy way to open the hole or just clean them out is to use tip cleaners used for torches, or if he wanted to stick with his toothpick method, he could use lapping compound instead of the toothpaste...


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## Sawyer Rob (May 6, 2014)

I'm glad you are getting it fixed, but I have to say, I just will NOT tolerate buying something NEW then having to fix it myself to use it!

I refuse to be an "enabler" for someone putting a POS on the market and getting away with it!

SR


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## Streblerm (May 6, 2014)

chrisp929 said:


> This main jet had 65 scribed on it. Any clue what size that is ?



That is probably .65mm which is between 72 and 71 drill size or ~.025". It could be 66 drill size which would be more like .033" but I would bet on .65mm

http://www.gearhob.com/eng/design/drill_eng.htm


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## nathon918 (May 6, 2014)

Streblerm said:


> That is probably .65mm which is between 72 and 71 drill size or ~.025". It could be 66 drill size which would be more like .033" but I would bet on .65mm
> 
> http://www.gearhob.com/eng/design/drill_eng.htm


 if he got a toothpick in there it certainly isnt .025... toothpicks are atleast .050+...
maybe its .065" but it being chinese i doubt it?


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## chrisp929 (May 6, 2014)

I actually only got about a 1/16" of the toothpick to go in the hole. Its very small. I would lean towards .025 or less even.


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## Dirtboy (May 7, 2014)

Sawyer Rob said:


> I'm glad you are getting it fixed, but I have to say, I just will NOT tolerate buying something NEW then having to fix it myself to use it!
> 
> I refuse to be an "enabler" for someone putting a POS on the market and getting away with it!
> 
> SR


 
I agree. Every product will have a lemon, and the fact that you gave it a second chance possibly, on that premise shows your patience. No way I would fix something that I bought brand new. Your much more patient than myself.


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## chrisp929 (May 7, 2014)

I definately hear you guys, but i had a job to do and needed the tool. Wood was waiting to be split and i have other things on my plate waiting after the wood.
On a side note, i ran the splitter for another 2 hours last night. It's running about 94%. It still stumbles hear and there but lightly and less often. I have some polishing rouge from a dremel kit and will try My method with rouge one more time. It started on the second pull yesterday and i split about another cord with no problems. It's a keeper. But i plan on writing the manager of my local tractor supply to let him know of the problem. I just don't know how to go about doing it without telling him my mod to the main jet, and potentially voiding a 2 year factory warranty.
Question. I'm tall and bring the tongue fairly high up to my mid wast area when pushing the splitter in and out of the shed. I noticed some gas dripping out of the carb area once i sat it down on the shed floor. Would that be normal ? I guess it's spilling out of the bowl at such an incline and during the hopp past my ramp into the shed ? Never had that happen to me on a small carb engine before.
I did accidentlly knock the bowl o ring out of the carb body the other day. I'm almost sure i seated it back in place correctly. I guess i could double check when i have free time.


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## hamish (May 7, 2014)

Consider cleaning out your idle air passages. This will make it easier to start, and stop your surging. The SH265 is a very reliable engine.


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## Philbert (May 7, 2014)

chrisp929 said:


> But i plan on writing the manager of my local tractor supply to let him know of the problem. I just don't know how to go about doing it without telling him my mod to the main jet, and potentially voiding a 2 year factory warranty.



You did not 'mod' anything. You cleaned the jet on a carb that was not operating properly, after your second attempt with a brand new machine.

Could you use welding torch tip cleaners to finish the job?

Philbert


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## chrisp929 (May 7, 2014)

I'm sure i could if i had a set Philbert. Also, which are the idle air passages hamish? Sorry, only a little experience with carbs but much determination to succeed!


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## zogger (May 7, 2014)

Uh Oh! Hooked now! Working on carb internals is a sure sign. Pretty soon you'll start gazing at the stock exhaust, thinking about all that wasted heat and contemplating a little turbocharger.....


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## Sawyer Rob (May 7, 2014)

I'd take it back and buy a higher quality splitter, EVEN if it cost me more $$... You are STLL working on a NEW machine!!

SR


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## 7sleeper (May 8, 2014)

Don't half of AS dream about and the other half modify brandnew chainsaws? I see no problem what so ever, but I wouldn't tell any store fellow in writing. In person is another thing, it is always easy to deny if problems should arise. 

7


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## bluesportster02 (May 8, 2014)

im glad i bought the husky 22 ton with the briggs on it. push the primer 3 or 4 times when cold half ass pull and it is runnig


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## zogger (May 8, 2014)

bluesportster02 said:


> im glad i bought the husky 22 ton with the briggs on it. push the primer 3 or 4 times when cold half ass pull and it is runnig



I needed a replacement engine on my cheapo snapper rear engine rider, and was out of scroungeable used ones from the junk pile. So I got an 8 horse briggs for two benjamins at a local for-real old timey everything including hardware store. Anyway, one pull cold, no primer bulb on it.


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## Sawyer Rob (May 8, 2014)

7sleeper said:


> Don't half of AS dream about and the other half modify brandnew chainsaws? I see no problem what so ever, but I wouldn't tell any store fellow in writing. In person is another thing, it is always easy to deny if problems should arise.
> 7



I have (4) chainsaws that go to the woods with me, NONE of them are moded in any way....they don't need it, as they run fine just the way they are...

I buy tools aren't "broke" and if it isn't broke, I don't fix it!

SR


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## chrisp929 (May 10, 2014)

Thought i would post a completion of my HOME MADE LOG CATCHER. Since i mentioned it previously.
I should also mention that the kohler runs very well now that i have polished the main jet of the carb. Although i had frustrating problems in the beginning, i would not change this Kohler version for the Briggs. I know others feel differently but other than the initial main jet issue, it runs great.

I slapped this together in a couple hours last night and primed. Finished paint this morning. 
The black paint in random places is where i either welded or cut the rack during production. I made the log catcher long enough to cover almost the entire engine completely. The additional weight is about 20lbs, and is in the right spot. It's now even easier to balance while rolling around during transportation. I cut the support arms at a 15 degree angle so the catcher sits at a soft angle, allowing easier pull of the log back to the splitter.

This whole project cost me $6.50 for a can of Rustoleum Semi gloss and 2 bolts with washers and nuts. The metal was scrap i had laying around.







Two 3/8"x1.5 inch bolts with washers and lock washers hold the rack on the splitter very well.





Here is it vertical. It clears the driver side tire by a quarter inch when vertical. Phew ! .. got lucky on that one. Didn't consider that during fab.





Back side .






I have a 28" section of this telco racking left if anyone in Upstate NY near albany wants it for free.

Thanks all for following along. I hope this thread helps others with Kohler problems and log catcher ideas.


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## rarefish383 (May 10, 2014)

I've got the B&S version and was expecting the cold hard start thing. It sat from Thanksgiving till Christmas covered in snow. Pumped the bulb 6 times (instructions call for 3 pumps) and it fired on the first or second pull, and before I could hit the pump again it stalled. Pumped 6 more times and it started on the first pull and kept running fine. I've got nothing but praise for my little Huskee, Joe.


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## sunfish (May 10, 2014)

The Chinese small engines suck! Hope you get it worked out.


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