# New Super Split HD Owner!!



## USMC615 (Feb 26, 2015)

A very happy new Super Split HD owner...First of all I'm new here and wanted to give thanks to the following: MNGuns (Semper Fi brother), Sunfish, NHMike, KiwiBro, Guswhit, Sandhill Crane, Mr. Finn, Sam-Tip, STLfirewood, CUCV, Angelo C, NHLogga to name a few, and many others who I apologize for not listing specifically...but thank you as well. Each of you were instrumental in my decision on the SS HD.

I read and read and read, and you folks are one helluva knowledgeable group of people. I spoke with Paul and Connor (son who is the production manager now) and they are a class act group of folks. Great communication whether via phone or email and prompt...exactly the way business should be. I guess they're a dying breed nowadays, just don't get service like that hardly anymore. I purchased the SS HD on 12 Feb and picked it up with my trailer from the ABF freight terminal in Macon, GA on 20 Feb. Paul gave me a two week lead time and I had it on my trailer 8 days later. Just can't beat it. My brother and I put it together the evening of the 20th. The assembly was straight forward, no problems. This thing is built like a tank and the 6.5 HP Honda GX 200 runs like a sewing machine...fired up first pull and one pull every time since them. I went through it lightly spray-lining, lightly greasing the rack, etc, etc based on you guys advice in the threads. 

I've split very little as of now... good handful of red oak, white oak, hickory, and pecan and this thing doesn't even check up. Nothing really bigger than 15" diameter at the most but just haven't had time due to daughters basketball (they made the Final Four in the GA State Championship 4-AAAA class) and the games are keeping the old man busy to say the least. Semifinal game this Sat, if they win, GA State Championship game 5 Mar. Not only that, but our fair share of rain the past week as well. 

I took several pics of the hoist/build process and end product of the SS in my shop, I'll do my best to get them posted soon...gotta polish up on that skill a little (I can have the flight controls/flight control surfaces off of a C-17 GlobeMaster III in 24-36 hrs, but I can't put a pic on a thread...go figure, Lol). I know you guys are ball-busters about pics and vids and I'll do my best to get them up. 

Again, thank you all for the insight, knowledge, and now a member of the SS Club...proud to be a member of it and this forum.

Jason


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## Sawdust inspector (Feb 26, 2015)

Send it up my way I'll break er in for ya. I've always wanted to try 1 before I'd think of buying 1 or just see what everyone is bragging about.


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## USMC615 (Feb 26, 2015)

Sawdust, hopefully I'll get the chance shortly to get a little more action out of the SS HD... Friend of mine has three pretty good size red oaks he wants outta his back yard. After how quick it split the little I've had the chance to play with, I see now why all the SS owners say you better have a boatload to split. I never personally had seen one much less ran one before I pulled the trigger on this thing. Been saving a little on the side for over a year now for one and finally happened. I've got a hydraulic in the shop, had about 3 yrs and runs like a top...his days I believe might be numbered.


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 26, 2015)

Welcome! Money well spent.


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## Guswhit (Feb 27, 2015)

Welcome!
It took me quite awhile of watching videos and reading comments before I purchased one, but darn happy with it! I won't ever give up my hydraulic I made, even though I have had some really good offers, both splitters have there place. I really don't want to cut big wood anymore if I don't have to. The big stuff that does fall into my lap now, I breakdown with the hydraulic(it's horizontal and vertical) so then I can finish with the SS. Definitely frees up more time that you used to spend splitting!


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## USMC615 (Feb 27, 2015)

Thanks Guswhit for the welcome aboard...and I agree both machine types certainly have their place in the splitting world. I'll certainly have to sample with the SS HD far more with 'not so straight' pieces of wood before I decide if I sell the hydro. As of now, no more than I've split, I couldn't be happier with the SS HD. Hopefully next week I can run a fair amount through the SS and make a little headway into the break-in period. Paul at SS and all you folks say they get better after a handful of cords.


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## USMC615 (Feb 27, 2015)

Thanks Sandhill Crane for the welcome aboard...you folks are definitely the source of knowledge to tap into concerning the SS's.


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## sunfish (Feb 27, 2015)

Welcome & Congrats! You have one of the best splitters made!


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## USMC615 (Feb 27, 2015)

Appreciate the welcome aboard Sunfish...I think the SS HD will turn out to be all I'll ever need. Like your avatar... We wear out the bream, crappie, and bass here in mid-Ga when the times are right and now it's crappie time. Can't get the fish fryers and peanut oil to 350 degs quick enough.


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## Oldman47 (Feb 27, 2015)

That SS is nice but how does the DR inertial splitter compare? My present splitter is a Fiskars but the inertial splitters intrigue me.


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## USMC615 (Feb 27, 2015)

Oldman47...having not used the DR Rapidfire my only evaluation of that machine would be the many threads I read here on the DR unit itself and the many comparison threads between the DR and the SS. I would offer searching the DR models here on AS and compare as well as the DR website. I know I'm not much of a help with your comparison question, just haven't personally used the DR. I'll say this much, the DR was not even in the running nor any other flywheel splitter for that fact when I purchased the SS HD. It's hard to argue and gamble against 40 years of the proven thoroughbred SS. I wouldn't even consider spending this type of money on anything other than a SS when it comes to a flywheel/rack and pinion splitter.


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## mr.finn (Feb 28, 2015)

Congrats on the new splitter and welcome aboard!! Paul and Connor are definitely solid people to work with and build a quality machine. Keep us updated after more use and don't be afraid to ask any questions about the SS, there is a knowledgeable group here that know that machine well.


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## Guswhit (Feb 28, 2015)

Oldman47 said:


> That SS is nice but how does the DR inertial splitter compare? My present splitter is a Fiskars but the inertial splitters intrigue me.



I have only had mine for about a year and a half, but I had to replace a bearing on mine the other day(do to operator ignorance) and when I called up to order I got Paul on the phone, he looked up my info in the computer to check my model number, Got my part ordered and then gave me a brief synopsis of the best/easiest way to replace the bearing and get things realigned. Where else would that happen? Granted they have been making this machine or one similar for years and not a lot of other products, but my point is the customer service!


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## USMC615 (Feb 28, 2015)

Thanks Mr.Finn for the welcome aboard...I'm sure I'll have many questions concerning the SS as I break the splitter in. I've gained a ton of knowledge from all you folks already by reading all the threads posted in the past few yrs, especially in the 'mod' department. I'm considering a swivel trailer jack mount with a 6" heavy caster mounted on the front leg to ease in the portability a little...get where the splitter will be setup then crank the wheel up and swivel out of the way. I remember some threads discussing that in the past. Other than that, I ordered the Outrigger Kit (two forward height adjustable brace legs for the very front end of the production table) from Split Second and it's here in the shop, gotta get it mounted today hopefully. By the way, Sean at Agri-Fab is top notch to deal with. The first Outrigger Kit I ordered showed up at my house looking like it had been dragged behind the UPS truck from Illinois to mid-GA, mounting brackets/all hardware missing. The only items in the, what you might consider the remnants of an attempt of a box, were the two outer and inner adjustable height legs. I took pics of the items/what was left of the box, sent them to Sean and he immediately overnighted a brand new, very nicely packaged replacement Outrigger Kit. The replacement kit didn't have a single scratch on the painted finish and all items accounted for. He was very apologetic and said he'll deal with the carrier concerning the first shipment. Great and prompt handling of the situation, two thumbs up on Sean and Agri-Fabs behalf.


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## Cneb5 (Feb 28, 2015)

USMC, Congrats on your new SS HD! I am also new here, and a proud new owner of a SS. My quest for my holy grail(of log splitters) ended last weekend. Got my tax return on a thursday, saw an ad on craigslist for a SS on saturday morning, drove from long island to connecticut sunday morning in my old suburban to pick it up. Not sure which model it is, but it has a 5.5 honda, and some welded re-enforcements around the edge of the table. Its in great condition for being an older model, but needs a few adjustments. Came with an extra ngk plug, bearing, springs, retract spring assembly, and some spacers. Been searching for a SS for years, and it was fate that this one fell into my hands. Just an amazing machine, and i share your enthusiasm!


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## Raganr (Feb 28, 2015)

Less talk and more pictures/videos of it in action


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## USMC615 (Feb 28, 2015)

Guswhit said:


> I have only had mine for about a year and a half, but I had to replace a bearing on mine the other day(do to operator ignorance) and when I called up to order I got Paul on the phone, he looked up my info in the computer to check my model number, Got my part ordered and then gave me a brief synopsis of the best/easiest way to replace the bearing and get things realigned. Where else would that happen? Granted they have been making this machine or one similar for years and not a lot of other products, but my point is the customer service!



Guswhit, your situation with the bearing replacement and how best to deal with it talking with Paul, and no doubt would've gotten the same courteous customer service/advice from Connor, sets these guys at SS in a league of their own. It can't possibly get any better in the customer service world. Your case coupled with the SS longevity, and that pretty round sticker that says "MADE IN THE USA"...it simply made it a no-brainer as to who I was cutting my splitter check to, with a big ol grin the entire time.


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## USMC615 (Feb 28, 2015)

Cneb5...congrats and as a very junior AS man myself, welcome to the SS world. All the things I've read, used SS's are indeed a rare bird and commodity to find in the For Sale world. I believe I'd pop the top on a few if for no other reason than finding a used one. Lol. Great find.


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## Joesell (Feb 28, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Thanks Mr.Finn for the welcome aboard...I'm sure I'll have many questions concerning the SS as I break the splitter in. I've gained a ton of knowledge from all you folks already by reading all the threads posted in the past few yrs, especially in the 'mod' department. I'm considering a swivel trailer jack mount with a 6" heavy caster mounted on the front leg to ease in the portability a little...get where the splitter will be setup then crank the wheel up and swivel out of the way. I remember some threads discussing that in the past. Other than that, I ordered the Outrigger Kit (two forward height adjustable brace legs for the very front end of the production table) from Split Second and it's here in the shop, gotta get it mounted today hopefully. By the way, Sean at Agri-Fab is top notch to deal with. The first Outrigger Kit I ordered showed up at my house looking like it had been dragged behind the UPS truck from Illinois to mid-GA, mounting brackets/all hardware missing. The only items in the, what you might consider the remnants of an attempt of a box, were the two outer and inner adjustable height legs. I took pics of the items/what was left of the box, sent them to Sean and he immediately overnighted a brand new, very nicely packaged replacement Outrigger Kit. The replacement kit didn't have a single scratch on the painted finish and all items accounted for. He was very apologetic and said he'll deal with the carrier concerning the first shipment. Great and prompt handling of the situation, two thumbs up on Sean and Agri-Fabs behalf.



Congrats! Only had mine for a week or so. I'm really loving it!

I'm going to raise mine up a few inches. I'm 6'3" and I felt like I was hunched over a little. Not a big deal for most, but I broke my back last summer and it's sensitive to that kind of stuff now.

Should be pretty simple. I'm going to take the bolts out the mount the leg and the axle and add a piece of 4" tubing and some longer bolts.

I'll take pic's if I get to it today.


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## USMC615 (Feb 28, 2015)

Joesell said:


> Congrats! Only had mine for a week or so. I'm really loving it!
> 
> I'm going to raise mine up a few inches. I'm 6'3" and I felt like I was hunched over a little. Not a big deal for most, but I broke my back last summer and it's sensitive to that kind of stuff now.
> 
> ...



I'm 6'3" as well Joesell and I've given thought to the same raise theory, whether in essence shimming like you're referring to or maybe screwing a couple of beveled-ramp ended treated 2x12's together (3" raise) with strips boxed in to act as tire chocks on the rear, and square cut 2x12's with a raised outline screwed pocket, so to speak, for the front flat bar foot to nest in. Not sure if my idea would lend to creeping and wanting to walk at 3/4 to full throttle or not but I've got some lumber in the shop I might play around with. I can adjust the add-on Split Second outrigger legs themselves to accommodate the height increase.


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## USMC615 (Feb 28, 2015)

Raganr said:


> Less talk and more pictures/videos of it in action



Raganr...I agree with ya. I'll try to get the pics uploaded this wknd at some point, my son knows how to do it I believe. We've got to set sail on a 2.5 hr drive here shortly above Atlanta for my daughters 4-AAAA high school basketball semifinal state championship game. 

As far as any vid, I'm out of wood here with what little I tried the SS out with after we assembled it, everything else is split already. I'm not a logger or woodsman by trade so I don't have anything readily avail to split at the moment...but I have a friend who wants three red oaks down in his yard. We've got it lined up for next weekend weather permitting and if daughters team wins today, the Ga state championship game is this coming Thurs evening, so ball won't be a factor for getting the trees on the ground, cut up and back to my property. He has a gas fireplace so I get all the wood and there should be a plenty.


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## sunfish (Feb 28, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Appreciate the welcome aboard Sunfish...I think the SS HD will turn out to be all I'll ever need. Like your avatar... We wear out the bream, crappie, and bass here in mid-Ga when the times are right and now it's crappie time. Can't get the fish fryers and peanut oil to 350 degs quick enough.


We start gettin after the Crappie late March/April & the Bluegill a month later. But May is THE month here!!!


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## USMC615 (Feb 28, 2015)

sunfish said:


> We start gettin after the Crappie late March/April & the Bluegill a month later. But May is THE month here!!!



Pretty munch same timeframes here as well. My buddies have been heading about 2 hrs west of mid-Ga over to Lake Eufala (Ga/Ala state line) and beating them to death the last two/three wknds. And I'm talking slabs by the pics I've seen. Catching em on minnows and trolling. Seems that lake produces the slabs earlier than other lakes, even West Point Lake which is not too far from Eufala. The best times in the central Ga lakes are ballpark you guys best times as well. And when the bream start bedding afterwards, it's on then. I've got an '07 Bass Tracker Pro Crappie 175 that lives in the water during these times. I wish I could make the trips recently with my buddies over to Eufala but daughters b'ball got me leaned out now. Peanut oil and fish fryers are itching here.


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## Joesell (Feb 28, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> I'm 6'3" as well Joesell and I've given thought to the same raise theory, whether in essence shimming like you're referring to or maybe screwing a couple of beveled-ramp ended treated 2x12's together (3" raise) with strips boxed in to act as tire chocks on the rear, and square cut 2x12's with a raised outline screwed pocket, so to speak, for the front flat bar foot to nest in. Not sure if my idea would lend to creeping and wanting to walk at 3/4 to full throttle or not but I've got some lumber in the shop I might play around with. I can adjust the add-on Split Second outrigger legs themselves to accommodate the height increase.



I thought about a ramp too. I don't know about yours, but mine vibrates a little. I'd hate to have it fall off the ramps. Not to mention, it would be a pita to set up all the time.

I'm also not getting any shorter, so a permanent fix is what I'm looking for.


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## Joesell (Feb 28, 2015)

Joesell said:


> I thought about a ramp too. I don't know about yours, but mine vibrates a little. I'd hate to have it fall off the ramps. Not to mention, it would be a pita to set up all the time.
> 
> I'm also not getting any shorter, so a permanent fix is what I'm looking for.



It turns out I still suck at action shots. I always get wrapped up and forget to take during pic's.

I was looking around my shop for some 4" square tubing but all I could find was 3". That's when I stumbled on some green treated 4x6. I figured it would work for now just to see if the height is right. Truth is, if it works, I'll probably never get around to putting steel in there.

It added 3 1/2" overall.

Either way, here's a pic of how it looks for now.


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## showrguy (Feb 28, 2015)

Congrats to a neaw SS owner..

I got mine last fall......... Kinda pisst about it though................Pisst that I did'nt order one many years ago !!

I built an attached custom splitting table for mine,,, works great..

Did'nt sell my hydraulic yet, but it's gonna go this year..


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 28, 2015)

Joesell: Are you blocking both ends?


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## Joesell (Feb 28, 2015)

Yeah, I cut 2 pieces the same. Got 5" bolts to replace the shorter ones that came with it. I could've gotten away with 4 1/2", but I already bought the 5's to go with the elusive 4" tubing.


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## USMC615 (Feb 28, 2015)

Joesell said:


> View attachment 407759
> 
> 
> It turns out I still suck at action shots. I always get wrapped up and forget to take during pic's.
> ...



Not a bad idea Joesell...I'd like to know if after everything is cranked down and tight, if the wood helps absorb some of the vibration at higher rpm ranges. Might be just the trick. Are you going to use nylon nuts on the longer bolts now since the wooden, vice steel theory? Might help from the wood 'compression' standpoint after everything is drawn down tight, keep regular nuts from possibly vibrating loose. Just thinking out loud. Definitely let me know the turnout.


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## Joesell (Feb 28, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Not a bad idea Joesell...I'd like to know if after everything is cranked down and tight, if the wood helps absorb some of the vibration at higher rpm ranges. Might be just the trick. Are you going to use nylon nuts on the longer bolts now since the wooden, vice steel theory? Might help from the wood 'compression' standpoint after everything is drawn down tight, keep regular nuts from possibly vibrating loose. Just thinking out loud. Definitely let me know the turnout.



Yeah, just about the time I got everything tightened down, and the splitter back on the floor, I realized I should've used lock nuts. It's not to late. It's still in the shop and it's supposed to snow tomorrow.


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## USMC615 (Feb 28, 2015)

Appreciate it showrguy...I'll be saying the same 'why didn't I buy this thing yrs ago' theory as well, I know it. I first saw an article on one several yrs ago and kinda just said that's neat. The last yr and a half I've been steadily on the saving money on the side trail. Just glad the trail has come full circle now. It's a helluva machine no more than I've put through it. Hope to have plenty of red oak on the ground next wknd.

Can you snap a pic of your custom built tableand post? Be interested in seeing it. I purchased the production table with mine but like to see others fab ideas.


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## Cneb5 (Feb 28, 2015)




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## showrguy (Feb 28, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Appreciate it showrguy...I'll be saying the same 'why didn't I buy this thing yrs ago' theory as well, I know it. I first saw an article on one several yrs ago and kinda just said that's neat. The last yr and a half I've been steadily on the saving money on the side trail. Just glad the trail has come full circle now. It's a helluva machine no more than I've put through it. Hope to have plenty of red oak on the ground next wknd.
> 
> Can you snap a pic of your custom built tableand post? Be interested in seeing it. I purchased the production table with mine but like to see others fab ideas.


The pictures are in a thread on here somewhere, but I'll try and repost what I have on the camera card......


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## USMC615 (Feb 28, 2015)

Cneb5 said:


> View attachment 407782
> View attachment 407783



Nice Cneb5...one helluva find. Looks like that bad boy is ready to rock and roll.


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## showrguy (Feb 28, 2015)




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## USMC615 (Feb 28, 2015)

That is slick Showrguy... Nice fab work. I like the quick-release pin on the legs theory. As well, the lack of angle (square side all the way) on the opposite side of table of the operator. I enjoy seeing others fab work...seems I get to looking at ideas to fab at times and it's like I get stuck on one way and one way only and can't get any other ideas in my head. Probably called 'being hardheaded.' Lol. Cadillac of a production table!!


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## USMC615 (Feb 28, 2015)

Joesell said:


> Yeah, just about the time I got everything tightened down, and the splitter back on the floor, I realized I should've used lock nuts. It's not to late. It's still in the shop and it's supposed to snow tomorrow.



Joesell, just a little food for thought. If the blocks work, maybe look at a quart, I'm sure that would handle two-coating both blocks and then some, of exterior oil base gloss or semigloss black. Just thinkin out loud again but would help the treated blocks weather a little better as a helper sealer as well...match the black undercarriage of the machine as well. Sometimes I think I think too much...Lol


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## Joesell (Feb 28, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Joesell, just a little food for thought. If the blocks work, maybe look at a quart, I'm sure that would handle two-coating both blocks and then some, of exterior oil base gloss or semigloss black. Just thinkin out loud again but would help the treated blocks weather a little better as a helper sealer as well...match the black undercarriage of the machine as well. Sometimes I think I think too much...Lol



I actually was going to paint them first. I didn't want to waste the time if it wasn't the right height though.

Along with not taking action pic's, I suck at making things look "nice". I'm all go and no show!


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## showrguy (Feb 28, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> That is slick Showrguy... Nice fab work. I like the quick-release pin on the legs theory. As well, the lack of angle (square side all the way) on the opposite side of table of the operator. I enjoy seeing others fab work...seems I get to looking at ideas to fab at times and it's like I get stuck on one way and one way only and can't get any other ideas in my head. Probably called 'being hardheaded.' Lol. Cadillac of a production table!!



Well, I gotta be honest,, the fab work was my idea, but I had some other guys actually do the work.......I did the design for the most part..
Actually, My buddy Jile who is a Timberwolf dealer did alot of the finish work (he's really good with that stuff),, Of course, I was jabbin him the whole time about my splitter being better than the one's he sells...hehehe..
I did convince him to join here but have'nt seen him post anything...I think his screen name is MrTimberwolf...

The table was not real easy to slide logs on, so I went searching...
Ended up buying some paint from tractor supply that has a ton of graphite in it,......stuff slides now with VERY LITTLE effort....


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## USMC615 (Feb 28, 2015)

showrguy said:


> Well, I gotta be honest,, the fab work was my idea, but I had some other guys actually do the work.......I did the design for the most part..
> Actually, My buddy Jile who is a Timberwolf dealer did alot of the finish work (he's really good with that stuff),, Of course, I was jabbin him the whole time about my splitter being better than the one's he sells...hehehe..
> I did convince him to join here but have'nt seen him post anything...I think his screen name is MrTimberwolf...
> 
> ...



Good deal, must be some tough paint. The table shows no wear across it. How do you like the electric? Wired for 110v or 220v? I'm already thinking of doing the electric add to mine and have the option of both when needed, splitting outside or inside the shop.


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## USMC615 (Feb 28, 2015)

Joesell said:


> I actually was going to paint them first. I didn't want to waste the time if it wasn't the right height though.
> 
> Along with not taking action pic's, I suck at making things look "nice". I'm all go and no show!



Have you blocked the rear end yet? And how's the height for you? Hope the height increase works out for your back. Fortunately, knock on wood, I've yet to have any back issues but some days it sure feels like it. Healing now ain't nowhere like it used to be in younger years.


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## Cneb5 (Feb 28, 2015)

No doubt, USMC. U got a taste of what this machine can do. Im digging logs out from under 18" of snow, frozen to each other, just to run it for 3 minutes at a clip. Its addictive to see what tough split it will handle next. So far, for what i believe to be a J model, no disappointments. Your HD has got to be a beast! I made a quick video today, but i cant seem to upload from my phone


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## USMC615 (Mar 1, 2015)

Cneb5 said:


> No doubt, USMC. U got a taste of what this machine can do. Im digging logs out from under 18" of snow, frozen to each other, just to run it for 3 minutes at a clip. Its addictive to see what tough split it will handle next. So far, for what i believe to be a J model, no disappointments. Your HD has got to be a beast! I made a quick video today, but i cant seem to upload from my phone



Glad to hear your SS is running well. As far as identifying your model, others I'm sure can chime in with insight. I believe up until about 3 yrs ago, and don't quote me on this, but both J and HD models had 75 lb/ea flywheels, only thing different was the rack carriage and bearing setup and possibly the engagement cam lever bearing(s). Since that time, the HD now sports a pair of 90 lb flywheels. Again don't quote me and I'm sure if you forwarded Paul or Connor at SS the pics you took, they could certainly tell what you've got. Enjoy splitting the dug up rounds from the snow. We wouldn't even know how to act in mid-Ga with 18" of snow on the ground...a rare few inches here shuts this entire place down, Lol.


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## KiwiBro (Mar 1, 2015)

Thanks for the pics guys. Showrguy, how many consecutive days have you done with your set-up? I ask because the plastic handle does not take enough of the shock loading of the engagement away for my liking and I tend to get some soreness after a while. This is why I like being able to swap sides and use the other hand when the scenario allows it. Also, in your case it looks like you are pretty stationary, so I guess can organise your splitting area prefect for your needs. I'll need to split on different sides of the machine depending on the location it is - I take it to different sites.

It sure would be nice to have the extra storage room on the table to accommodate the re-split bits that multiply when breaking down a large round. I'm thinking perhaps a pin on/off extension that can be flipped both ways depending on which side I'm working on.

Nice idea on the splitting table paint. I had the same epiphany when splitting largish rounds during the onslaught of a tropical cyclone here (way too much fun splitting with this machine to stop just for howling wind and torrential rain). The rounds and re-splits were sliding all over the very wet table in that rain and it took a wee while to work out a system to minimise them sliding off before being split to size. But, as you have learned, the radically less effort to do all the re-splitting is quite a joy that is hard to understand until you experience it for yourself. It sure makes for a heck less fatigue at the end of each day.

My search for slipperiness lead me to UHMWPE (ultra high molecular weight polyethylene) sheeting. Very hard wearing, super low friction. Dropped the mounting half an inch and put on the 1/2" UHMWPE sheet, so it all sits flush with the beam. Magic outcome. Very pleased with it after a number of years and probably around 500 cords with the table on. It's showing naff-all or rather insignificant wear too.

Another benefit to such slippery tables that may not be immediately obvious is the potential for radically less wear on the rack and pinion from the engagement procedure. The easier it is to slide the wood back to the wedge for another split, the more chance we have to engage the rack and pinion at that moment when the carriage rebounds off the rubber bumpers. For that brief instant, the rack is moving in the same direction as the pinion gear, thus the meshing of the two is silent and easy. Not so hard to do on the big rounds that can take a little more time to get back in front of the wedge, but for all the re-splits and smaller rounds, it's a wonderful zone to be splitting in when it all becomes kinda zen. That sort of rhythm is one of my happy places for sure.

CUCV is the real SS mod' genius amongst us though. From extra flywheels to four-way wedges and cam followers rather than the carriage lift bearing.

Some mods still on my to-do list are:

Telescopic/sprung legs; gets it down lower when towing around job sites and allows me to set it up levelish on sloping sites.
Sorbothane sock on the handle; to see if can reduce the engagement strain/shocks.
A better grill + chute off the end of the table than what I have now.
That clip-on table extension I mentioned above.

I also had making it highway towable on my list too, but have decided I aint paying 'the man' another set of registration fees, etc.


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## Joesell (Mar 1, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Have you blocked the rear end yet? And how's the height for you? Hope the height increase works out for your back. Fortunately, knock on wood, I've yet to have any back issues but some days it sure feels like it. Healing now ain't nowhere like it used to be in younger years.



Yes, I blocked both ends to keep it level, just higher.


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## USMC615 (Mar 1, 2015)

KiwiBro said:


> Thanks for the pics guys. Showrguy, how many consecutive days have you done with your set-up? I ask because the plastic handle does not take enough of the shock loading of the engagement away for my liking and I tend to get some soreness after a while. This is why I like being able to swap sides and use the other hand when the scenario allows it. Also, in your case it looks like you are pretty stationary, so I guess can organise your splitting area prefect for your needs. I'll need to split on different sides of the machine depending on the location it is - I take it to different sites.
> 
> It sure would be nice to have the extra storage room on the table to accommodate the re-split bits that multiply when breaking down a large round. I'm thinking perhaps a pin on/off extension that can be flipped both ways depending on which side I'm working on.
> 
> ...




Good insight KiwiBro...ideas/mods discussed in the SS threads make for great brainstorming and simplifying of the wood splitting task. I always liked your UHMWPE idea and mod. I agree as well, CUCV is the ' Mod Master.' He's done some really tricked out things to his machines.


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## Cneb5 (Mar 1, 2015)

I posted 2 quick videos on youtube under the heading "used supersplit find". These are my first videos ever, so please excuse the camera work.


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## USMC615 (Mar 1, 2015)

Cneb5 said:


> I posted 2 quick videos on youtube under the heading "used supersplit find". These are my first videos ever, so please excuse the camera work.



Just watched both vids Chris on YouTube and left comments per each. Nice machine and again one helluva find. Absolutely nothing wrong with the camer work. Spare parts alone that you got just sweeten it even more. Two thumbs up buddy.


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## Dogsout (Mar 1, 2015)

I watched your video, very nice machine. I do have a question and a comment. #1 Are you making kindling or do you need your splits that small? Not to rile up all of the SS boys on here but watching your video I have to say I could finish those splits and rounds your were working on much faster with my hydraulic splitter. I would just wave at the splitter on my way by as I walked by it to throw each of those chunks in my OWB. Not trying to say mine is better or start a fight just an observation. Again very nice machine and may it split cord after cord in the years to come.


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## showrguy (Mar 1, 2015)

KiwiBro said:


> Thanks for the pics guys. Showrguy, how many consecutive days have you done with your set-up? I ask because the plastic handle does not take enough of the shock loading of the engagement away for my liking and I tend to get some soreness after a while. This is why I like being able to swap sides and use the other hand when the scenario allows it. Also, in your case it looks like you are pretty stationary, so I guess can organise your splitting area prefect for your needs. I'll need to split on different sides of the machine depending on the location it is - I take it to different sites.
> 
> It sure would be nice to have the extra storage room on the table to accommodate the re-split bits that multiply when breaking down a large round. I'm thinking perhaps a pin on/off extension that can be flipped both ways depending on which side I'm working on.
> 
> ...



Kiwi,
I have used the splitter on consecutive days without any noticeable soreness....I am not splitting for 8 hrs. at a time either..
I do move my splitter around, but being able to load the backhoe bucket with rounds makes life so much easier for me.... I realize not everybody has that option..
I did look for a used SS for several years, only found 2 that were both over 20 yrs. old, and the sellers still wanted 3/4 of new price for em..
I really like the electric SS, nice and quiet..
And CUCV is the man when it comes to the SS, his videos and 1 call to SS, 5 minutes of talking to Paul, I was sold on the SS..
Btw, my table is 4 ft. X 5 ft. long, I know I've had 1000 pounds of oak rounds on it at one time...


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## sunfish (Mar 1, 2015)

I haven't felt the need to modify anything on the J model. Just split cord after cord after cord, etc... It's actually fun to split wood now.


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## sunfish (Mar 1, 2015)

Dogsout said:


> I watched your video, very nice machine. I do have a question and a comment. #1 Are you making kindling or do you need your splits that small? Not to rile up all of the SS boys on here but watching your video I have to say I could finish those splits and rounds your were working on much faster with my hydraulic splitter. I would just wave at the splitter on my way by as I walked by it to throw each of those chunks in my OWB. Not trying to say mine is better or start a fight just an observation. Again very nice machine and may it split cord after cord in the years to come.


A lot of us have 'wood stoves' that take small splits.


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## USMC615 (Mar 1, 2015)

sunfish said:


> I haven't felt the need to modify anything on the J model. Just split cord after cord after cord, etc... It's actually fun to split wood now.



I agree with that. After putting the Split Second Outrigger front stabilizer legs on, I may put a swivel trailer jack w/6" caster on the front main leg. It's not overly difficult to move so that little trick will probably get backburnered.


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## USMC615 (Mar 1, 2015)

sunfish said:


> A lot of us have 'wood stoves' that take small splits.



Second that...I burn small, med size splits at best in my wood stove in the shop. About the same in the living room open fireplace, more towards medium splits. I prefer these sizes so I add a variable of control for the length of the burn in case anything goes on, I'm not leaving an inferno for any length of time. And no OWB/furnaces, etc that I'm aware of around this locale.


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## Cneb5 (Mar 1, 2015)

Thnx USMC, And Dogsout. What i split yesterday in the video, are in fact small splits( not quite kindling size). A back injury last year has left me short on wood this year. So what i split yesterday, are mixed in the stove today. Those rounds and 1/4 rounds are also buried behind my trailer, so i did kinda grab the easy stuff to split, in hopes of it being on the dryer side.


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## KiwiBro (Mar 1, 2015)

showrguy said:


> Kiwi,
> I have used the splitter on consecutive days without any noticeable soreness....I am not splitting for 8 hrs. at a time either..
> I do move my splitter around, but being able to load the backhoe bucket with rounds makes life so much easier for me.... I realize not everybody has that option..
> I did look for a used SS for several years, only found 2 that were both over 20 yrs. old, and the sellers still wanted 3/4 of new price for em..
> ...


Have been looking at 'lecky motors lately. Is yours single or three phase? Any idea what sort of HP or Kw rating it is?
Do you run it with a generator when not near a power outlet?

Any concerns running it outside in wet weather?


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## showrguy (Mar 1, 2015)

KiwiBro said:


> Have been looking at 'lecky motors lately. Is yours single or three phase? Any idea what sort of HP or Kw rating it is?
> Do you run it with a generator when not near a power outlet?
> 
> Any concerns running it outside in wet weather?


Mine is single phase wired for 110, and can be converted/rewired to 220 easily. (I think it's a 1 hp. motor)
Most all of my splitting is within 100 ft or so of power, so no need for generator.....It's easier for me to bring wood to the splitter, than to take the splitter to the wood......in most casses..
No fear of operating outdoors when it's wet out.....but I ain't splittin in the rain for sure............not cause I don't wanna get electricuted ,, cause I don't wanna get wet >>..lol..


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## USMC615 (Mar 2, 2015)

Joesell said:


> View attachment 407759
> 
> 
> It turns out I still suck at action shots. I always get wrapped up and forget to take during pic's.
> ...



Joesell, how'd the 4x6 block height increase work out for you/your back? Did you run nylon/nylok nuts and curious as to any vibration increase/decrease or otherwise?


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## Joesell (Mar 2, 2015)

Didn't get to run it today, and it's supposed to snow tomorrow. I did run it in the shop but being on concrete, the vibrations were even worse.


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## USMC615 (Mar 2, 2015)

Joesell said:


> Didn't get to run it today, and it's supposed to snow tomorrow. I did run it in the shop but being on concrete, the vibrations were even worse.



I certainly understand the increase in vib's on concrete...height feel like it's right? Maybe the weather will give you a break soon and give it a go outdoors. Strange weather down here...will be near 80 Wed, right back to lows in the 30's/highs in the mid-50's Fri thru Sun. Trust me, fluctuations like that are a sinus killer. Lol


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## sam-tip (Mar 3, 2015)

SS does have great customer service. I was amazed Paul called me after I sent an email about which belt to use as a replacement for my Special Edition. What amazed me was he got back to me the same day and it was the afternoon of Christmas Eve. I don't know of any other business owner including myself that would be returning calls about finding a belt on Christmas Eve. My belt is fine just couldn't find the same size belt listed in the belt catalogs. Paul did say the HD now has the bigger heavier flywheels.


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## USMC615 (Mar 3, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> SS does have great customer service. I was amazed Paul called me after I sent an email about which belt to use as a replacement for my Special Edition. What amazed me was he got back to me the same day and it was the afternoon of Christmas Eve. I don't know of any other business owner including myself that would be returning calls about finding a belt on Christmas Eve. My belt is fine just couldn't find the same size belt listed in the belt catalogs. Paul did say the HD now has the bigger heavier flywheels.




Couldn't agree more Sam-tip...excellent customer service. After I placed my order, a few days later I emailed Paul with a spare parts list I'd like to have on hand, not that I felt I had to have the parts then by no means, just for the future piece of mind of having them 'in-stock' in my shop. Got a spare 3/4" CYR bearing, two rubber return bumpers, one carriage return spring, and two Hi-Power II A69 pulley belts. Paul thought Connor had put these items in with the splitter shipment and vice versa...Connor thought Paul had. I emailed them and they confirmed the same and received the spare parts with no additional ship charge yesterday. On a side note, I cross-referenced the belts as well at a local NAPA store last week and their prices are the same as Paul's (literally within a dollar and a half). We crossed it to a Gates belt as well as other mfg's and the same outcome price-wise. 

Sam-tip, I seem to not be able to find a post of yours in an older thread where you showed WOT (wide open throttle) rpm tach specs per I believe the HD and SE models. I've got the Honda 6.5 GX200 upgrade on my HD, if that was the motor you had spec'd out, could you provide the same rpm info possibly again? In the SS manual it says specifically not to run greater than 3000 rpm's...I have, should say I had, a tach a couple of yrs ago...I think it got loaned and never seemed to find its way back home. I think we've all been a victim of that song and dance before. I'll have to replace my tach and find the exact throttle position for 3K max rpm's but was just curious about WOT rpm's. And if SS owners are running wide open with their machines if using the motor I have then I should I suppose be able to do the same. Your thoughts on this and any tach info would help. Thanks Sam-tip. 

Jason


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## USMC615 (Mar 3, 2015)

Sam-tip, in relation to the previous post asking for rpm info, guess I had a brainfart and left out some info before I hit the post launch button...I know the motor manual (GX200) shows 3600 rpm, but I was thinking your tach specs were other than. And I could certainly be wrong on that. I'm sure tachs have a +/- tolerance however small, but don't know if the same tolerances are a variable in engine mfg'ing. I'd just rather err on the side of caution before I even attempt any WOT running. I know most SS owners from thread reading only run around 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and not necessary to go above (I would think wood type, how green or otherwise seasoned, etc) is certainly a variable there. I guess ideally I'd like to find the 3K motor rpm (310 flywheel rpm) and mark the motor housing right beneath the throttle lever with a white permanent paint pen, and know that is my throttle (motor rpm) stopping point. With air cooled engines I don't want to baby it while running it as far as block/heat dissipation goes. Your thoughts and thoughts of others will be appreciated. Thx. 

Jason


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## sam-tip (Mar 3, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> SE motor ran at 3870 rpm and flywheel was at 337 rpm.
> 
> Hd motor was 3760 rpm and flywheel was 328 rpm.
> 
> ...


 
Took me a while to find the post also. Most of the splitting is at full throttle at charity cuts because at charity cuts there is enough people to keep the splitter busy. For personal splitting the motor is at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle unless the wood is nasty. But then 90% of the hours on my splitters are at charity cuts. 

My tach for motor is just a stick on hour meter that wraps a wire around the spark plug. The meter for the fly wheel is a special device with counter and stop watch built into one. I got it at a garage sale from a old machinist.


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## USMC615 (Mar 3, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> Took me a while to find the post also. Most of the splitting is at full throttle at charity cuts because at charity cuts there is enough people to keep the splitter busy. For personal splitting the motor is at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle unless the wood is nasty. But then 90% of the hours on my splitters are at charity cuts.
> 
> My tach for motor is just a stick on hour meter that wraps a wire around the spark plug. The meter for the fly wheel is a special device with counter and stop watch built into one. I got it at a garage sale from a old machinist.



Thank you Sam-tip for diggin and finding the rpm info, I appreciate it very much. I've got a baseline now to reference, seems it's a little higher than mfg specs. Is your HD running with the 6.5 Gx200 Honda? No problems on your end running WOT? I've looked at the combination hr/tach meters on Amazon/eBay and will probably go that route. Just wanted to kinda get a feel where I stood now...actually haven't split anything except 1/2 to 1/4 already split stuff for friends just to see it in action. I'm tired of makin kindling, Lol. I'd have to wheelbarrow it to the living room open fireplace now just to make heat with this puny stuff. Supposed to drop three sizeable red oaks this wknd for a friend but looks like rain is gonna get us again, tried last wknd but the same fate. We'll see how mother nature plays out though... he spent about $3K last year having his yard sodded with centipede grass so he wants trucks and trailers as minimal as he can on his lawn. It's kinda the drop it, get it cut immediately, get it gone theory.


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## sam-tip (Mar 3, 2015)

Yes the HD is the honda engine. Had some trouble getting them started this last weekend at the Kansas City charity cut. Sat so long with fuel off that carb was dry. 3 drops of fuel in carb and start up. Last ran Dec 6 in Wisconsin treemonkey charity cut. 

Still having slow rack return in cold weather.

tappa talk samsung note 2


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## USMC615 (Mar 3, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> Yes the HD is the honda engine. Had some trouble getting them started this last weekend at the Kansas City charity cut. Sat so long with fuel off that carb was dry. 3 drops of fuel in carb and start up. Last ran Dec 6 in Wisconsin treemonkey charity cut.
> 
> Still having slow rack return in cold weather.
> 
> tappa talk samsung note 2



Thanks for the info Doug, I really appreciate it being a new SS owner. I want this machine to last two lifetimes...one day when my 47 yr old rear end leaves this planet, I'll leave this thing to my son and daughter to squabble over, Lol. 

You touched on a point that I've never heard of...GTG's and Charity Cuts. Never heard of either to be honest with you. Of course born and raised in mid-Ga and have returned after a heap of 'sight seeing' around the planet compliments of the Marine Corps...nothing like that I've ever heard of. I commend you, as well as all others who participate in as much, to give your time, effort, and sore backs, to those in need and those less fortunate. Things like this define the true character of men/women who participate in helping the needs of others...and ask nothing in return. I salute you and all who participate in these events. I'm gonna crank up a thread, this is not the topic matter here on this one, and get a better feel of the whereabouts geographically, and the folks who participate in such. I think I remember reading your wife's posts a few times when I was reading you folks GTG threads...her quote on her posts as best I can..."wealth is not measured in how much money nor material things...it's what you do for others." I translate it this way...no sense in standing by while a man, woman, child spends a cold day much less an even colder night...only to have to wake up and do it all over again. Again, a salute to you, your wife, and all others that support Charity Cut GTG's who take their time out of busy lives to do for others. True character and something that takes the pain out of a sore back when it's all said and done.


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## Hinerman (Mar 3, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> Yes the HD is the honda engine. Had some trouble getting them started this last weekend at the Kansas City charity cut. Sat so long with fuel off that carb was dry. 3 drops of fuel in carb and start up. Last ran Dec 6 in Wisconsin treemonkey charity cut.
> 
> Still having slow rack return in cold weather.
> 
> tappa talk samsung note 2



We ran your HD wide open all day Saturday. It used less than 1.5 tanks of fuel. For several hours we had 5 people working it and it had no problem keeping up. 2 people bringing rounds from the pile to the splitter, 1 person loading and moving splits back for re-split, 1 person operating the lever and moving splits too, and 1 person tossing the splits.

What is the cause of the slow rack return in cold weather? Is there a fix for it? It was a problem almost all day, after all it did snow on us all day; but not an issue with 3-5 people working the splitter---somebody was slapping it back every time not slowing down production. I could see where it might get frustrating if I was splitting by myself.


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## sam-tip (Mar 3, 2015)

The crew was running the SS HD so fast this weekend there was steam coming off the wedge. Good pile of hedge.


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## Hinerman (Mar 3, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> The crew was running the SS HD so fast this weekend there was steam coming of the wedge. Good pile of hedge.



Yes, this is true. I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see it with my own 2 eyes. Like I said, a crew of 5 was operating at full speed for several hours. Other than lunch and to move from one pile to another, we never stopped continuously splitting.

I would also like to add...whomever cut that hedge should have had to split it. The pieces were cut 20-28" long. I had to cut many pieces just to get them on the splitter. Before we started Levi asked me if I thought the SS would split hedge that big and long----only one way to find out. Other than some crotches and twisty pieces, the SS just rocked on. We had to hit some pieces more than once but that is expected with hedge cut that long. Some of those rounds were too big to lift so we noodled a few first.


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## MNGuns (Mar 3, 2015)

Best splitter out there by far. Last weekend I split wood in my shop with the race on TV, and the wood stove cranking. Rounds in one trailer, finished wood into another. Too many people underestimate the power and efficiency of the machine.


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## Joesell (Mar 3, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> Still having slow rack return in cold weather.
> 
> tappa talk samsung note 2



What's the fix for the slow rack return? I ran mine the other day after I lifted it. I had to push the rack back by hand each time. I only did about 5 splits. I figured it would loosen up. Does it?


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## sam-tip (Mar 3, 2015)

Joesell said:


> What's the fix for the slow rack return? I ran mine the other day after I lifted it. I had to push the rack back by hand each time. I only did about 5 splits. I figured it would loosen up. Does it?



Only warmer weather that I know of. 40 degrees or higher. There is a thread on the issue but nothing has fixed the return for me.


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## USMC615 (Mar 3, 2015)

MNGuns said:


> Best splitter out there by far. Last weekend I split wood in my shop with the race on TV, and the wood stove cranking. Rounds in one trailer, finished wood into another. Too many people underestimate the power and efficiency of the machine.



Guns...new to the forum site and proud owner of a new HD SS. Yet to put my machine to nothing other than piddling stuff for the lack of wood, I'm playing now splittin splits. Your insight and knowledge was highly regarded in my purchase. There was no other splitter I was even considering writing the check for. Just a big ol grin here, only thing missing now is a pile of rounds. Semper Fi my man.


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## USMC615 (Mar 3, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> The crew was running the SS HD so fast this weekend there was steam coming off the wedge. Good pile of hedge.



Nice... From what I've read, hedge is some pretty tough stuff in you folks area. Helluva pile of wood and I'm sure that was just the beginning.


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## USMC615 (Mar 3, 2015)

Hinerman said:


> We ran your HD wide open all day Saturday. It used less than 1.5 tanks of fuel. For several hours we had 5 people working it and it had no problem keeping up. 2 people bringing rounds from the pile to the splitter, 1 person loading and moving splits back for re-split, 1 person operating the lever and moving splits too, and 1 person tossing the splits.
> 
> What is the cause of the slow rack return in cold weather? Is there a fix for it? It was a problem almost all day, after all it did snow on us all day; but not an issue with 3-5 people working the splitter---somebody was slapping it back every time not slowing down production. I could see where it might get frustrating if I was splitting by myself.



Impressive...all day on less than two tanks of fuel. I could see the frigid temps having a play in the simple return spring theory. With no carriage bearing/upper return bearing problems, I'd probably stick too in those kinda temps, lol.


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## Hinerman (Mar 3, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Nice... From what I've read, hedge is some pretty tough stuff in you folks area. Helluva pile of wood and I'm sure that was just the beginning.



Yes, that pile was nothing compared to the others. Maybe Doug will post a pic of the others....


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## sam-tip (Mar 3, 2015)

The other pile from Saturday.











tappa talk samsung note 2


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## USMC615 (Mar 3, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> The other pile from Saturday.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



What a pile of splits...Doug, how's the log lift working? I have added the outrigger leg kit to my SS HD and was looking at purchasing the log lift. I think I would add welded cross members perpindicular to the lengthwise arms to keep smaller rounds/re-splits from falling through, and possibly cut and tack 1/2 inch -13 expanded metal. I do like your trick with the plywood and may do the same instead of buying tube to weld in place.


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## sam-tip (Mar 4, 2015)

The lift works good. But the quick connect pins have wiggled out. Did bend a few things when it happened while loaded. Replacing pins with bolts or adding locking pins.


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## Guswhit (Mar 4, 2015)

My rack return had been acting up and I discovered that I had a sticky "bearing". The one on top of the beam, lift bearing I think. I split on the left side mostly and didn't realize that on the bolt that holds this bearing in place, it is drilled out so you can spray some wd40 or some other kind of lube in to help it be free, mine actually had gotten all gummed up from grease off the rack and debris all summer and wasn't turning real free any more(actually developed a flat spot on the bearing) and had to get a new one. Anyway, I have been heating mine up a little with a propane torch and then giving it a couple squirts of wd40 or pt blaster and it seems to run great all day.


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## Joesell (Mar 4, 2015)

I know it has something to do with ice. It was really cold when ran ours for the first time. It was fine all day. It wasn't until the next day that it started to stick. I wonder if snow or ice got into something and is jamming it up?


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## sunfish (Mar 4, 2015)

I spray a little WD-40 on the top of the rack and all is good with retracting...


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## USMC615 (Mar 4, 2015)

sunfish said:


> I spray a little WD-40 on the top of the rack and all is good with retracting...



Sunfish, are you and Sunfish Forge one and the same?


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## sunfish (Mar 4, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Sunfish, are you and Sunfish Forge one and the same?


Yes, but I don't advertise it...


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## USMC615 (Mar 4, 2015)

sunfish said:


> Yes, but I don't advertise it...



I hear ya...I thought I remembered reading a thread where you had offered one up for a charity auction/raffle of sorts. I showed my son the site and he was highly impressed. As well as I. He's got a growing collection he's had for several yrs. I don't know to call what we saw on your site knifework or artwork. That is true craftsmanship and talent to say the least.


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## sunfish (Mar 4, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> I hear ya...I thought I remembered reading a thread where you had offered one up for a charity auction/raffle of sorts. I showed my son the site and he was highly impressed. As well as I. He's got a growing collection he's had for several yrs. I don't know to call what we saw on your site knifework or artwork. That is true craftsmanship and talent to say the least.


Thanks, it keeps me busy & out of trouble.


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## Pcoz88 (Mar 4, 2015)

Is that the log lift from split second?How well does it work? How did the install go? Is there a tread on the install? Thanks .


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## sam-tip (Mar 4, 2015)

Pcoz88 said:


> Is that the log lift from split second?How well does it work? How did the install go? Is there a tread on the install? Thanks .


Yes it is the log lift from split second. used mostly when only single operator. Otherwise it is a nice work table. Easy install. Had to drill 4 3/8 holes in beam to mount. I can repost pictures or you can find them in the split second thread.

tappa talk samsung note 2


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## USMC615 (Mar 4, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> Yes it is the log lift from split second. used mostly when only single operator. Otherwise it is a nice work table. Easy install. Had to drill 4 3/8 holes in beam to mount. I can repost pictures or you can find them in the split second thread.
> 
> tappa talk samsung note 2



Doug, this might be a silly question or one asked in the other thread where you posted pics, just don't remember. Can you un-pin or unbolt the log lift from its mount that's bolted to the beam and simply re-pin and swap to the other side?


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## USMC615 (Mar 4, 2015)

Joesell said:


> Didn't get to run it today, and it's supposed to snow tomorrow. I did run it in the shop but being on concrete, the vibrations were even worse.



I got to piddling around and running mine in the shop yesterday evening and thought mine was vibrating a little much, no more than I was giving it throttle. Why I didn't do this from the get-go I have no idea, but checked the tire pressure... the turf tires are rated for 22psi max fill, mine had almost 29psi. I dropped them to 20 each and made quite a difference in the vibration dept. I did lose the jacked up, funny car rear end look though...Lol. 

I also added the Split Second Outrigger Kit to the front end and it stabilizes really well now.


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## sam-tip (Mar 4, 2015)

It does unpin for simple removal. But to mount the lift to the other side it would require you unbolt the mount from the beam and turn it. 7 bolt to turn the lift mount.


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## Pcoz88 (Mar 4, 2015)

Thanks for reposting pics!!Was lift worth the price? Are front stabilizers included?


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## sam-tip (Mar 4, 2015)

I only use one stabilizer if any. They are extra. For one operator the lift is worth it. With a team of helpers it is almost in the way but makes a nice staging table.


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## Split Second Log Splitter (Mar 4, 2015)

The small cam follower bearing used on the rack return needs to be sealed for a happy kinetic and a happy user. The 3/4” diameter bearing used on most kinetics, corrodes with use and freezes. See below the inside of your unsealed ¾” cam follower bearing after use. When it freezes it slides down the beam instead of rolling which creates wear. The WD40 only helps free the rust so it will rotate again for awhile, hence the small hole in the bolt or spraying the sides of it since it is an unsealed bearing. If you split in cold weather this type of bearing will wear out extremely fast. On the Split Second Log Splitter the cam follower bearing is 1” diameter sealed with low temp grease that will not get sluggish until around -30°F. The housing that holds the bearing is designed to let the beam crud go thru and not get held up around the bearing. The Split Second also has a rack return spring bracket that allows the springs to be tightened depending on use. Please keep the top of your beam and rack clean.


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 4, 2015)

Split Second Log Splitter: Please post this bearing and bracket part number for ordering. Thanks.


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## Guswhit (Mar 5, 2015)

Sandhill Crane said:


> Split Second Log Splitter: Please post this bearing and bracket part number for ordering. Thanks.



You better talk to Paul or Conner. When I ordered mine the other day or so, Paul said they changed the size of the bearing now on the super split. I got an updated bearing and a new bracket from him.


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## USMC615 (Mar 5, 2015)

Guswhit said:


> You better talk to Paul or Conner. When I ordered mine the other day or so, Paul said they changed the size of the bearing now on the super split. I got an updated bearing and a new bracket from him.



Guswhit..., can you spec the OD, type of bearing, sealed or otherwise? Reason I ask, I ordered my SS HD Feb 12, picked it up from the local freight terminal Feb 20...mine came with the 3/4 CYR bearing. I also ordered a few spare parts to include an additional return carriage bearing (3/4 CYR), belts, return spring, return rubber bumpers. They must've changed this bearing size since mine shipped out I suppose. I'd be curious as to what the bearing size/type is now and the included bracket if the bracket is part of this setup.


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 5, 2015)

I did also Guswhit. It works a little better but it is not a sealed bearing. Ready to try a sealed bearing. It is actually called a cam follower. The original was 5/8", new is 3/4".


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## Guswhit (Mar 5, 2015)

Sandhill Crane said:


> I did also Guswhit. It works a little better but it is not a sealed bearing. Ready to try a sealed bearing. It is actually called a cam follower. The original was 5/8", new is 3/4".



At my own expense to show how much of an idiot I was I'll tell my saga.
I initially was using spray grease on the rack and got it on the cam follower and it gumed it all up, stuck and developed a flat spot. Paul fixed me up with a new 3/4" one and since I have been using the wd40 or PB blaster and heating up in the winter no issues
$30.00 some dollar screw up!


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## USMC615 (Mar 5, 2015)

Guswhit said:


> At my own expense to show how much of an idiot I was I'll tell my saga.
> I initially was using spray grease on the rack and got it on the cam follower and it gumed it all up, stuck and developed a flat spot. Paul fixed me up with a new 3/4" one and since I have been using the wd40 or PB blaster and heating up in the winter no issues
> $30.00 some dollar screw up!



I see Guswhit / Sandhill Crane...the 3/4" bearing is the newest bearing change. I always thought the 3/4" was standard on the machines and possibly had upgraded to a 1" bearing. I never knew previous/older models up to a certain point used a 5/8" bearing. I guess I got 1" bearing stuck in my head because of the Split Second reply earlier stating they used that OD.


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## sunfish (Mar 6, 2015)

I still have the original small bearing on mine with over 60 cords. Just keep the beam clean and a shot of WD on the bearing and a shot on top of the rack. No worries...


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## Guswhit (Mar 6, 2015)

sunfish said:


> I still have the original small bearing on mine with over 60 cords. Just keep the beam clean and a shot of WD on the bearing and a shot on top of the rack. No worries...



Ya, now I see! Directions, directions, we don't need no stinking directions! 
I do keep mine inside when not splitting so its not exposed to the weather, and I give it LIBERAL shots of wd40 while splitting. I need breaks more often anyway so this is my justification for taking them!


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## sam-tip (Mar 6, 2015)

Got to 55 today and the rack returned just fine. Split some cherry for a local restaurant.







tappa talk samsung note 2


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## USMC615 (Mar 6, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> Got to 55 today and the rack returned just fine. Split some cherry for local restaurant.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Good to hear on the rack return deal. Nice little amount of cherry...good to smoke with if low and slow.


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## speedthrills (Mar 6, 2015)

From what I have found super split has a heavier flywheel, DR is a cheaper copy. DR has an upgrade kit that replaces the bearings with solid bushing , but if you don't ask the right questions they will let you get out of warranty! Have talked to the owner of the super splitter, he is a class act as far as I can tell. Think you made a great choice, just my 2 pennies .


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## USMC615 (Mar 6, 2015)

SS folks, question for you...I've noticed in many pics, the ram engagemnt lever crimp nut and bottom jam but in different positions. I remember reading somewhere that the ram will want to disengage on its stroke when hitting a round if not set right. Right now my top crimp nut is flush with the top of the threaded engagement rod, bottom nut is all the way unthreaded down, leaving about 1/2" play above and below the top/bottom of the engagement lever to the top/bottom nuts. Lot of pics have the top crimp nut tightened down on the handle to the bottom jam nut, lots of pics have the bottom jam nut cranked up forcing the handle to meet the top crimp nut...some in between as well. My SS is nowhere near seen the break-in period, is this just a break-in thing and I'll ultimately find where it needs to be set or just let it roll where it is and be done with it?? It's travelled forward with the splits I've played with so far and returned, no problems. But it's yet to see any real use at all. Thx for replies.


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## USMC615 (Mar 6, 2015)

speedthrills said:


> From what I have found super split has a heavier flywheel, DR is a cheaper copy. DR has an upgrade kit that replaces the bearings with solid bushing , but if you don't ask the right questions they will let you get out of warranty! Have talked to the owner of the super splitter, he is a class act as far as I can tell. Think you made a great choice, just my 2 pennies .



Speedthrills, I appreciate your opinion, thx. I believe I made the right, and only purchase, in the flywheel splitter arena...just too hard to bet against the 40 yr proven workhorse. Speaking of class acts, not only Paul/Connor at SS, but all these SS owners on this site. I read until my eyes got crossed what this group of guys here say and have spoken about their machines...and Ive still got a wheelbarrow full of questions for em'...hope they got some patience, lol. The option of buying anything other than a SS never even crossed my mind.


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## speedthrills (Mar 6, 2015)

What division and what company and yeah I happened to be a hollywood Marine UHH raah Semper fi do or die


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## speedthrills (Mar 6, 2015)

From what know about the Dr I think you made a great choice, enjoy and tear it up and post your opinion. Was l0oking at one myself but found a hydraulic splitter at at a great price. But I sometimes have to rip cut and wedge split wood,no splitter will split 4' plus burr oak easily !


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## speedthrills (Mar 6, 2015)

As far as things looking off call the manufacture he will get it squared away.


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## USMC615 (Mar 6, 2015)

speedthrills said:


> What division and what company and yeah I happened to be a hollywood Marine UHH raah Semper fi do or die



Hollywood Marine. Haven't heard that term in yrs. Ain't nothing like a 3 month vacation to Parris Island on my side of the Mississippi. I was Air Wing, spent most of my time in the 2nd Marine Aircraft Wing...A/6-E Intruders, E/A-6B Prowlers. Semper Fi my man. If considering a SS, you won't regret the purchase. Mine has yet to see any real action for lack of wood, but it'll get there, trust me. It's a Cadillac of a machine.


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## sunfish (Mar 6, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> SS folks, question for you...I've noticed in many pics, the ram engagemnt lever crimp nut and bottom jam but in different positions. I remember reading somewhere that the ram will want to disengage on its stroke when hitting a round if not set right. Right now my top crimp nut is flush with the top of the threaded engagement rod, bottom nut is all the way unthreaded down, leaving about 1/2" play above and below the top/bottom of the engagement lever to the top/bottom nuts. Lot of pics have the top crimp nut tightened down on the handle to the bottom jam nut, lots of pics have the bottom jam nut cranked up forcing the handle to meet the top crimp nut...some in between as well. My SS is nowhere near seen the break-in period, is this just a break-in thing and I'll ultimately find where it needs to be set or just let it roll where it is and be done with it?? It's travelled forward with the splits I've played with so far and returned, no problems. But it's yet to see any real use at all. Thx for replies.


It doesn't matter how the handle nuts are configured, just as long as they are not tightened down against the handle. Sounds like yours is fine.


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## USMC615 (Mar 6, 2015)

sunfish said:


> It doesn't matter how the handle nuts are configured, just as long as they are not tightened down against the handle. Sounds like yours is fine.



Appreciate the input Sunfish. I'm gonna let it rock and roll the way it is then. Seems to me the bottom jam nut would eventually work it's way back down the thread anyhow. My bottom nut just threads freely anyhow for the most part. Of course I could booger up the thread a little on that nut to get it to bite, but I don't think it's necessary. I'm gonna go with what I got, thx.


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## MNGuns (Mar 6, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Hollywood Marine. Haven't heard that term in yrs. Ain't nothing like a 3 month vacation to Parris Island on my side of the Mississippi. I was Air Wing, spent most of my time in the 2nd Marine Aircraft Wing...A/6-E Intruders, E/A-6B Prowlers. Semper Fi my man. If considering a SS, you won't regret the purchase. Mine has yet to see any real action for lack of wood, but it'll get there, trust me. It's a Cadillac of a machine.




2nd MAW • MAG-31 • _MALS-31_ • MCAS BEAUFORT SC


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## speedthrills (Mar 6, 2015)

1371 Combat Engineer I am the real deal lol was there did it, weeds out fakes if they know! Picked my time to go to bootcamp to be in kilo company. I work on and fix tings for a living. In my honest opinion if used within reason, you picked the best of the best!


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## speedthrills (Mar 6, 2015)

And to answer your question for an inertia splitter , you got it the one to own! If I had to pick one that would have been what I bought , let us know when you get it in wood and how it works and keep posting for a few years.


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## USMC615 (Mar 6, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Appreciate the input Sunfish. I'm gonna let it rock and roll the way it is then. Seems to me the bottom jam nut would eventually work it's way back down the thread anyhow. My bottom nut just threads freely anyhow for the most part. Of course I could booger up the thread a little on that nut to get it to bite, but I don't think it's necessary. I'm gonna go with what I got, thx.



...not too much thread resistance on the bottom nut anyhow. It will stay put where I set it for a little bit, but I've noticed some creep in it just running it at different throttle in the shop. And it may not be a problem when it gets to some 'absorption' of ground contact use. Concrete seems to make things rattle and shake anyhow.


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## USMC615 (Mar 6, 2015)

MNGuns said:


> 2nd MAW • MAG-31 • _MALS-31_ • MCAS BEAUFORT SC



...MA


MNGuns said:


> 2nd MAW • MAG-31 • _MALS-31_ • MCAS BEAUFORT SC



...2nd MAW, MAG-14, VMAQ-2, VMFA-533 (All Weather Attack), Avionics/Electrician. Served from '86-'94. Spent some time (FAP) at H&HS Station as well as MWSG-27...MWSS-272


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## USMC615 (Mar 6, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> ...MA
> 
> 
> ...2nd MAW, MAG-14, VMAQ-2, VMFA-533 (All Weather Attack), Avionics/Electrician. Served from '86-'94. Spent some time (FAP) at H&HS Station as well as MWSG-27...MWSS-272



...hit the wrong buttons on that one. Anyhow, spent time with HQ, MWSG-27, one of our squadrons your way at Beaufort, MWSS-272.


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## USMC615 (Mar 6, 2015)

Guns...my last reply got a little skewed, hittin wrong buttons at the wrong time. Price you pay for having to hold an iPhone about two feet from ya to do anything, lol. Finishing up on what we were talking about Corps-wise. Glasses maybe??


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## USMC615 (Mar 6, 2015)

speedthrills said:


> 1371 Combat Engineer I am the real deal lol was there did it, weeds out fakes if they know! Picked my time to go to bootcamp to be in kilo company. I work on and fix tings for a living. In my honest opinion if used within reason, you picked the best of the best!



Been around a many a 1371, combat engineer. Good group of guys. If you decide on a splitter...SS all the way. J or HD model, unless you got some bruiser wood, the SE might be the choice. I think you'll find the J or HD at the most will handle anything...save the coins.


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## speedthrills (Mar 6, 2015)

MOS school outhouse bay Camp Lejuene cmap Hansen Okinowa. For Those That Have Never Fought For It Freedom Has A Special Flavor The Protected WILL NEVER KNOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

GOD COUNTRY AND CORPSE IN THAT ORDER SEMPER FI DO OR DIE SO FEW KNOW OE APPRECIATE THE MEANING 

p.s the blood stripe and the fleur de lis you just gotta have been there to be in the know


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## speedthrills (Mar 6, 2015)

I would think for just a safety measure would pony up for the hd, but it is your purchase to make checks and balances and weigh your options and make your choice


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## USMC615 (Mar 6, 2015)

speedthrills said:


> MOS school outhouse bay Camp Lejuene cmap Hansen Okinowa. For Those That Have Never Fought For It Freedom Has A Special Flavor The Protected WILL NEVER KNOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> GOD COUNTRY AND CORPSE IN THAT ORDER SEMPER FI DO OR DIE SO FEW KNOW OE APPRECIATE THE MEANING
> 
> p.s the blood stripe and the fleur de lis you just gotta have been there to be in the know



I hear ya brother...let's keep the integrity of the SS thread going, don't wanna derail it for others. If you wanna crank up a separate discussion by all means, we'll chatter all day long on discussion side. Semper Fi.


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## USMC615 (Mar 6, 2015)

speedthrills said:


> I would think for just a safety measure would pony up for the hd, but it is your purchase to make checks and balances and weigh your options and make your choice



The money difference was not that much, fortunately I had it to spare (with two kids, a rare commodity), so I went the HD route. Had I gone the J route, I'm positive I would've been just as satisfied, from reading J owner posts, no doubt.


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## speedthrills (Mar 6, 2015)

Will message you in the future, I think you made a great choice , buy the heaviest duty you can afford and never look back. Solid machine and not only a good sales from the owner, people are copying him for a reason . Just saying why. would any.one try to make a cheaper copy , if it didn't have a market!


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## speedthrills (Mar 6, 2015)

I hear ya have 5 children 22 the oldest to youngest 5 , yea I am a glutten for punishment.


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## USMC615 (Mar 6, 2015)

MNGuns said:


> 2nd MAW • MAG-31 • _MALS-31_ • MCAS BEAUFORT SC



...should've said MWSS-273 your way at Beaufort...-272 was New River (helos). Yeh, I need glasses.


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## Joesell (Mar 7, 2015)

Ran mine for a bit this morning. It was 2 degrees out so I figured the rack would stick. I gave it a good shot of wd 40 before it left the garage and worked by hand a few times.

After the first 5 splits it started going back on its own most of the time. However, it was slow to retact, and still needed help once in a while. That's something I'm going g to have to find a fix for. I do a lot of cold weather splitting.

I also adjusted the tire pressure to 20 psi to help with the vibrations. It seemed to help a little, but I'm not sure because I also ran it at 3/4 throttle vs full.

The extra height was a big help for me. My back felt a lot better. There was an added bonus too. The table was higher and fit over the top of the table on the tw6. It made it easier for 2 splitters to use the same conveyor.

Not to keep jacking this thread, but it seems like I should mention I'm also a Marine. Spent some time at 2nd Maintenance at Lejeune, and a year in Korea at MEC-P.


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## USMC615 (Mar 7, 2015)

Joesell said:


> Ran mine for a bit this morning. It was 2 degrees out so I figured the rack would stick. I gave it a good shot of wd 40 before it left the garage and worked by hand a few times.
> 
> After the first 5 splits it started going back on its own most of the time. However, it was slow to retact, and still needed help once in a while. That's something I'm going g to have to find a fix for. I do a lot of cold weather splitting.
> 
> ...



Glad to hear the height increase worked out for your back. Nice that it accommodates your conveyor setup with the TW6 as well. Semper Fi.


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## unclemoustache (Mar 7, 2015)

Welcome, and congrats on the SS. I just got mine this summer and have already split about 15 cords on it. Love that thing.


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## USMC615 (Mar 7, 2015)

unclemoustache said:


> Welcome, and congrats on the SS. I just got mine this summer and have already split about 15 cords on it. Love that thing.



Hey 'stache'... Thanks for the welcome aboard with the SS. I read a many of your input on the subject matter. Yours and others made for great reading and solidified my SS splitter purchase. Thx again.


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## unclemoustache (Mar 7, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Hey 'stache'... Thanks for the welcome aboard with the SS. I read a many of your input on the subject matter. Yours and others made for great reading and solidified my SS splitter purchase. Thx again.



Yeah?? Then why didn't you mention me in the original post? You gotta remember - moustaches take priority. That's the rule around here.


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## USMC615 (Mar 7, 2015)

unclemoustache said:


> Yeah?? Then why didn't you mention me in the original post? You gotta remember - moustaches take priority. That's the rule around here.



I hear ya 'Stache.' My apologies...that's why I tried to cover all others with the 'thank you to all others who I didn't mention specifically'...man it was hard to keep up with all the SS names. I winged it from my memory, Lol.


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## USMC615 (Mar 7, 2015)

To all, 
Weather in mid-GA 65 degs now, beautiful day...got six half chickens and ten leg qtrs on the grill now. Wish I could have all you good folk here for some good eats. Sides are fried okra, fried squash and a big 'ol pot of green beans seasoned with ham hocks. Gonna be some swollen bellies here in the next few hours. I hope you all have a great day...great crew of folks to have conversation with via this forum.


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## Rudedog (Mar 7, 2015)

I know I'm supposed to hit the unit with some automotive bearing grease. Does anyone have picks of how/where? The previous owner did it and I've run about three cords and I probably need to do it again. I have the SE model.


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## USMC615 (Mar 7, 2015)

Rudedog said:


> I know I'm supposed to hit the unit with some automotive bearing grease. Does anyone have picks of how/where? The previous owner did it and I've run about three cords and I probably need to do it again. I have the SE model.



I would think if referencing any type of grease, it would be on the rack teeth only and cycle the rack either by hand or under engine load, as to let it mesh with the flywheel pinion gear. Only other grease applications I think would be the greasable bearings for the pinion gear, accessible after removing the handle and cover. Just saw your post, don't know if I'm chiming in after the fact or not.


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## Rudedog (Mar 7, 2015)

Ok. So I have to remove the handle too I guess. I thought I was supposed to hit the rack teeth and pinion gear every few cords or so with automotive grease. I was hoping I only had to remove the cover. I hit the rail will PB Blaster every time I use the machine before start up.


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## USMC615 (Mar 7, 2015)

Rudedog said:


> Ok. So I have to remove the handle too I guess. I thought I was supposed to hit the rack teeth and pinion gear every few cords or so with automotive grease. I was hoping I only had to remove the cover. I hit the rail will PB Blaster every time I use the machine before start up.



Have you greased the 'pillar block' grease zerks that are on the inside of each flywheel, removing the handle and cover? Give those zerks a few good squeezins of grease and run it to get it slung around. As far as liquid, hit the underneath rack bearings, the return spring bearing that rides the beam, and a few drops on top of the rack to help the rack engagement/cam bearings. I use either WD-40, most times Slick 50 Lube 1, or Pennzoil Z-4 spray lube... All the same when it comes down to it.


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## Rudedog (Mar 7, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Have you greased the 'pillar block' grease zerks that are on the inside of each flywheel, removing the handle and cover? Give those zerks a few good squeezins of grease and run it to get it slung around. As far as liquid, hit the underneath rack bearings, the return spring bearing that rides the beam, and a few drops on top of the rack to help the rack engagement/cam bearings. I use either WD-40, most times Slick 50 Lube 1, or Pennzoil Z-4 spray lube... All the same when it comes down to it.


Nope. Thanks for the info.


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## USMC615 (Mar 7, 2015)

Rudedog said:


> Nope. Thanks for the info.



...only have yo remove the top crimp nut at the yellow handle end, then pivot the handle rearwards, then unbolt the flywheel cover to access the flywheels, grease zerks, etc.


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## Rudedog (Mar 7, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> ...only have yo remove the top crimp nut at the yellow handle end, then pivot the handle rearwards, then unbolt the flywheel cover to access the flywheels, grease zerks, etc.


Ooooh. Easy enough. Thanks tons.


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## USMC615 (Mar 7, 2015)

Rudedog said:


> Ooooh. Easy enough. Thanks tons.



You bet. Hope your machine runs like a top.


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## USMC615 (Mar 7, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> You bet. Hope your machine runs like a top.



...any good automotive grease will work, no hi-temp necessary, no more flywheel rpm the SS is running.


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## Cneb5 (Mar 7, 2015)

So much great info for us SS newbs. Every bit helps a great deal with troubleshooting, and basic maintenance. USMC, we both have new(to us) machines, and no logs to split! Im dying here! Whats worse is that i have close to 6 cords of log, and 1/4 rounds, and its all frozen, and buried under another 6" of fresh powder.


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## USMC615 (Mar 7, 2015)

Cneb5 said:


> So much great info for us SS newbs. Every bit helps a great deal with troubleshooting, and basic maintenance. USMC, we both have new(to us) machines, and no logs to split! Im dying here! Whats worse is that i have close to 6 cords of log, and 1/4 rounds, and its all frozen, and buried under another 6" of fresh powder.



I hear ya Cneb5...if I had that much on my property now, I think I'd set up some spot lights, go at it with either a heat gun or the ol' ladies hair dryer, try to do some thawing out, lol. My buddy had to work this wknd, so downing the three red oaks I've been eyeballing is gonna have to wait til next wknd I suppose at the earliest. He works in a F-15 back shop doing a bunch of milling/machine work, their work is constant, never know who gets drafted for OT til the last minute, on Fridays. It's just typical DoD, govt mentality. I've been working DoD for many yrs now on C-17's...been victim of the same 'last minute, gotta work this wknd' crap as well. He hates OT wknd work, I love the OT, few and far between when I get it, but we produce airplanes maintenance-wise, a heap quicker than F-15's, C-130's, and C-5's folks do. Anyhow, I hope you get to splittin soon, like others well before me have said...it makes splittin fun, not a chore.


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## Cneb5 (Mar 7, 2015)

Dont think for a second that the spotlight/hairdryer idea hasnt crossed my mind!


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## USMC615 (Mar 7, 2015)

Cneb5 said:


> Dont think for a second that the spotlight/hairdryer idea hasnt crossed my mind!



I hear ya man...Lol.


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## Oldman47 (Mar 8, 2015)

Smack that wood pile with a sledge and rounds will pull right off. Wood is fairly soft and pliable compared to the brittle ice that is holding the pile together.


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## Cneb5 (Mar 8, 2015)

I've done that with as much as i can reach Oldman. Split about 3/4 of a cord with the machine. Need to move my camping trailer to get to the rest. The ram started to hang up a bit on the retract with all the ice and snow. Also, the welded "X" on the face of the ram is worn, and some of the logs skipped off a few times. Need to get more bite on the log. Im in no hurry to damage the machine, or myself. My neighbor gave me a can of Lubriplate Gear Shield to use on the rack and pinion, and I beam. Anyone ever use this stuff?


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## USMC615 (Mar 8, 2015)

Cneb5 said:


> I've done that with as much as i can reach Oldman. Split about 3/4 of a cord with the machine. Need to move my camping trailer to get to the rest. The ram started to hang up a bit on the retract with all the ice and snow. Also, the welded "X" on the face of the ram is worn, and some of the logs skipped off a few times. Need to get more bite on the log. Im in no hurry to damage the machine, or myself. My neighbor gave me a can of Lubriplate Gear Shield to use on the rack and pinion, and I beam. Anyone ever use this stuff?



I've never heard of it, seems it's a heavyweight lithium based grease type from what I read online...should be fine for the rack teeth and pinion gear.


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## Dogsout (Mar 8, 2015)

Hey USMC615 Do you work for Super Split? Seems like your main goal in life is keeping this thread at the top of the forum. You joined a couple of weeks ago and have 98 posts, of which 65 are in this thread. For someone who by your words have not had a lot of experience with this machine you sure are quick to recommend it as the best in the business to the people who respond to this thread. Anyone wondering why I would ask this question just read the first post in this thread and tell me weather you could write a better ad for Super Split then what is posted there.


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## USMC615 (Mar 8, 2015)

Not at all Dogsout...no goals nor agenda here. Folks respond to the thread, I respond, etc. I call it how we learn and keep a decent conversation. When it comes to splitters, to each his own in regards to what they buy. Had it not been a SS, probably would've gone the TW route with what I had saved up for. And it's irrelevant to me where the thread sits in the forum. I hope everyone's splitter regardless of manufacturer serves them well.


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## KiwiBro (Mar 8, 2015)

Dogsout said:


> Hey USMC615 Do you work for Super Split? Seems like your main goal in life is keeping this thread at the top of the forum. You joined a couple of weeks ago and have 98 posts, of which 65 are in this thread. For someone who by your words have not had a lot of experience with this machine you sure are quick to recommend it as the best in the business to the people who respond to this thread. Anyone wondering why I would ask this question just read the first post in this thread and tell me weather you could write a better ad for Super Split then what is posted there.


In a world full of circle-jerking, cognitively-challenged fanboys, it's nice to read a healthy dose of cynicism. Sincere scrutiny should never be considered impoliteness nor be rail-roaded by a PC agenda. So I hope USMC615 has no probs addressing your concerns. 

That said, as a SS owner for a number of years, I can understand anyone singing its praises. Good, simple, robust and productive machinery needs a place at the front of a congested crowd of mediocre alternatives, all fighting for our attention and hard-earned $. I'm a firm believer we each have an obligation to each other to out the crap products and services while endorsing the good ones.


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## Cneb5 (Mar 8, 2015)

I look at it this way.... If we were on an automotive forum we would all be hyping up the vehicle we owned. If we were on a sports site, we would brag about our team. Its no different, and we all have something in common. We all own different saws, mauls and splitters.


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## USMC615 (Mar 8, 2015)

Dogsout said:


> Hey USMC615 Do you work for Super Split? Seems like your main goal in life is keeping this thread at the top of the forum. You joined a couple of weeks ago and have 98 posts, of which 65 are in this thread. For someone who by your words have not had a lot of experience with this machine you sure are quick to recommend it as the best in the business to the people who respond to this thread. Anyone wondering why I would ask this question just read the first post in this thread and tell me weather you could write a better ad for Super Split then what is posted there.



Dogsout, I hope tou had the opportunity to read my response from your post earlier. Been thinkin about this for an hour or so and I'll lay it out like this...I'm not a heavyweight when it comes to logging, tree removal, etc,etc. I'm not pushing a single soul towards a SS nor otherwise. Before I joined this site, I read and read about splitters from guys like you. I simply, with the 'mason jar buried in the back yard' mentality, saved up enough money over almost two yrs to make a purchase. I've got it no different than 99% of the folks on this forum...a mortgage, utilities, groceries, mouths to feed, and extraneous other bills up my rear end. What folks buy is what they buy and I hope it works out for them as far as no breakdown, financial rebuild cost or otherwise.

I cranked up the thread on this site, first site I've ever been associated with, to give a lot of thumbs up to folks who've taken the plunge and purchased one of these things. It's what this site is great for, reviewing a possible future purchase...and hope ya get it right. I've been burned a many a time with buying cheap, 'heat of the moment' purchases, overseas crap. Buying cheap generally means buying twice. Just didn't want to gamble this kinda money, which comes around few and far between with me, to say the least.

I hope my responses have satisfied your curiosity...we only get one shot at livin on this rock, and I hope I can learn every day something new, from you and the other fine folks on this forum. I hope your equipment, saws, splitter(s), etc serve you well.


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## Split Second Log Splitter (Mar 9, 2015)

Lets get back to the handle adjustment nuts, *it does matter how they are configured*. First they should not be tightened down against the handle, they should have some distance to allow the engagement rod to move freely in its slot.
But they are configured in one of two ways:
1- so that when you pull up the handle, it stays up by itself to do the split and automatically returns.
2- so that when you pull up the handle, it drops back down as soon as you let go, for safety. 

This adjustment is very fine, only a turn of the lower or upper nut will show you this. Once you have done it you will understand how to utilize this feature. Ours is defaulted to #2 for safety until you understand how to operate and adjust your equipment.
_Your friends from Split Second!_


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## jrider (Mar 9, 2015)

Can we get some video of it in action?


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## sam-tip (Mar 9, 2015)

Just noticed Super Split has an updated website. Some day we might be able to order parts online. Ordering a bearing for HD. The one on top of the beam. Switching it to the larger bearing too


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## Oldman47 (Mar 9, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> I've never heard of it, seems it's a heavyweight lithium based grease type from what I read online...should be fine for the rack teeth and pinion gear.


Lubriplate is good for sliding surfaces. I have no idea how it is formulated but we use it on bearing surfaces that really don't move very fast, never on anything like a wheel bearing.


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## Rudedog (Mar 9, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> Just noticed Super Split has an updated website. Some day we might be able to order parts online. Ordering a bearing for HD. The one on top of the beam. Switching it to the larger bearing too


Thanks. I just took a look. I see there are tabs for ordering parts and service videos. Sweet!!


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## Rudedog (Mar 9, 2015)

I wou


Oldman47 said:


> Lubriplate is good for sliding surfaces. I have no idea how it is formulated but we use it on bearing surfaces that really don't move very fast, never on anything like a wheel bearing.


l'd think WD 40 or PB Blaster would work just fine in this application. That Lubriplate looks like da bomb, but it is super pricey.


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## Cneb5 (Mar 9, 2015)

It is pretty pricey,i looked on ebay and amazon. My neighbor swears by it though. But he said its more for the open gears of the rack and pinion. I sprayed a tiny bit onto a piece of paper, and it has an almost foamy texture to it. When the weather gets a bit nicer here, im gonna clean the rack and pinion and give it a try. I think i will use the pb or wd on bearings though.


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## sunfish (Mar 9, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Dogsout, I hope tou had the opportunity to read my response from your post earlier. Been thinkin about this for an hour or so and I'll lay it out like this...I'm not a heavyweight when it comes to logging, tree removal, etc,etc. I'm not pushing a single soul towards a SS nor otherwise. Before I joined this site, I read and read about splitters from guys like you. I simply, with the 'mason jar buried in the back yard' mentality, saved up enough money over almost two yrs to make a purchase. I've got it no different than 99% of the folks on this forum...a mortgage, utilities, groceries, mouths to feed, and extraneous other bills up my rear end. What folks buy is what they buy and I hope it works out for them as far as no breakdown, financial rebuild cost or otherwise.
> 
> I cranked up the thread on this site, first site I've ever been associated with, to give a lot of thumbs up to folks who've taken the plunge and purchased one of these things. It's what this site is great for, reviewing a possible future purchase...and hope ya get it right. I've been burned a many a time with buying cheap, 'heat of the moment' purchases, overseas crap. Buying cheap generally means buying twice. Just didn't want to gamble this kinda money, which comes around few and far between with me, to say the least.
> 
> I hope my responses have satisfied your curiosity...we only get one shot at livin on this rock, and I hope I can learn every day something new, from you and the other fine folks on this forum. I hope your equipment, saws, splitter(s), etc serve you well.


I think I was accused of working for SS shortly after I got mine. LOL Don't worry about it bubba!


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## USMC615 (Mar 9, 2015)

sunfish said:


> I think I was accused of working for SS shortly after I got mine. LOL Don't worry about it bubba!



Trust me, zero worries here...got bigger and better things to do. Just trying to be decent to the man. You can stick a fork in this one, it's a done deal. And I ain't into 'beating dead horses' nohow.


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## Dogsout (Mar 9, 2015)

I asked a simple question why wouldn't you want to be decent in your reply? I ask the question because if in deed you were affiliated with Super Split then all of your comments should get a little closer scrutiny and somewhat taken with a grain of salt. Would not expect you to put down a product that you have a vested interest in. I never once said anything bad about this machine, just your unusual fascination with it. I believe you when you say you don't work for them but still find it very odd that you and Cneb5, that joined at the same time you did a couple of weeks ago, have made it your mission in life to keep this thread bumped to the top. I don't know about the rest of the board but after the 40th post by you in this thread, I am pretty sure you like your splitter. The next fifty stating the same thing tend to be a little annoying when you are subscribed to this thread. On a final note I hope you and your buddy get years of great service out of your machines.


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## Rudedog (Mar 10, 2015)

Dogsout said:


> ........... The next fifty stating the same thing tend to be a little annoying when you are subscribed to this thread. ..............



The only thing that annoys me is no pictures.


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 10, 2015)

I've read some of this thread but certainly can not say all of the posts. For the majority of splitting the SS is a very impressive machine. However, in thirty five years of splitting wood, the SS required more fiddling with to get the rack to return than sometimes seems worth it. [I've never fiddled with a hydraulic other then replacing a worn out detent handle once, and a detent valve another time. Replaced an eighteen year old briggs with a Honda. Turned out it was bad gas, the engine carb was gummed up.] Pulling the rack out of the SS machine is simple but time consuming. Much of this is a learning curve. I took things a part that did not need to be, as in separating the rack from the carriage. I replaced bearings, and found another backup bearing (cam roller) locally. Yesterday I spent some time getting the rack to return before starting. Most importantly I talked with Paul this summer. He said it is mostly about tracking, meaning adjusting the top bearing side to side in very small adjustments. Yesterday I rolled the rack out by hand. Dropped a loop of rope over the wedge and push plate to hold the rack out. Cleaned the beam, under the push plate (I use an old Japanese style pull saw blade), and a piece of wood lath to get between the bump stops a good 6" where the bearing rides. Propped the top bearing up with an L bar and plastic wedge (chain saw cutting wedge) to clean and free up the bearing. Pulled the rack out by hand a few times. Did not return well. The carriage was not tracking straight and rubbing on the edge of the beam. Tapped the top bearing bracket sideways, and repeat. To far, carriage rubbed opposite diagonals of carriage. Tap it back to the sweet spot. Paul said elevating the wedge end of the machine with a 2"x block would also help. After ten minutes or so of cleaning/adjusting I dabbed a spot of grease on the rack and started splitting and smiling. Point is, plan to spend time to repeatedly clean and fiddle with it. There is a bit more fussing to it than a hydraulic splitter which really has none at all. If the rack is not returning, I'm not splitting wood, and at times, that has really pissed me off to spend hours trying to figure it out. It seems to be a combination of breaking in, and learning curve, and has been working better. This machine has about 40+ cords run through it, so not much. Hope this is helpful in some way to someone else.


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## jrider (Mar 10, 2015)

Sandhill, thank you very much for your post. I have sold over 100 cords the last 2 years and have been seriously thinking about getting one of these machines ( I currently have an I&O with a 4 way) and it has always seemed too good to be true that there was no information regarding durability, wear and tear, maintenance, etc. 
For those who have run 100's of cords through theirs, how have they held up? What kind of down times and maintenance costs have you encountered?


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## sunfish (Mar 10, 2015)

Sandhill, have you tried spraying a little wd40 on top of the rack? That's all I do if the returned slows down on mine and then it retracts quicker than it comes out. Also no grease on top of the rack, gotta keep it clean.


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## KiwiBro (Mar 10, 2015)

jrider said:


> For those who have run 100's of cords through theirs, how have they held up? What kind of down times and maintenance costs have you encountered?


 Held up well. Will probably still be splitting wood when I am pushing up daisies. 

Downtime: bugger all, 10 mins here and there dealing with a broken belt or free-ing up a bearing or extracting splinters that might get caught under the carriage. 

Maintenance: usual on the engine, at the end of each season I also take all bearings off and put them in a big jar of whatever heavy oil I can find laying around, grease the flywheel bearings, check the rack and pinion.

Spares: belts, maybe even a spare clutch, rubber bumpers maybe.

In use: learn to read a round like you would with an axe. Read the manual in advance. I keep a small paint scraper handy to clear the beam of sappy crud from time to time. grease the rack and pinion teeth every few hours or whenever it feels or sounds like it could do with it - you'll know what I mean when you start using and get used to it.

Really, there's SFA that can go wrong on these (if they are well built and a SS is), and it doesn't take long for anyone even slightly mechanically minded to, if they wanted (and I really suggest they do when first get it) pull the cover off, learn what is going on with the engagement mechanism, why it is done that way, how the carriage is set up, etc. Do a bunch of 'what happens if I do this' type of tweaks and learn if you have to. 

It really isn't complicated. There's not much to it.


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## USMC615 (Mar 10, 2015)

Folks, here's an attempt at some pics...seeing cross-eyed 'bout now from this laptop, pulling out what little bit of hair left, and if the truth be known just ill as hell about trying to figure this pic stuff out, Lol. I just picked some random stuff to see if I could even pull this off. If they come out wrong or whatever, I apologize and I'll delete the post and try again tomorrow.


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## Cneb5 (Mar 10, 2015)

I can only speak for myself, but USMC and myself, have strikingly similar stories, as to how long we have been waiting to obtain one of these machines. I obsessed for years. When i searched the web for used or new, this forum always got a hit. So after i found and bought a used SS, i decided to sign up, to try to learn more, and there is alot of things i didnt know. This is the first thread i read after joining, and my need to learn more about it, keeps me coming back. There are many threads that have thousands of reply's and hundreds that contribute, and they all started somewhere. I have no agenda, and no affiliation with super split either. But there is something special about this machine, that peeks interest. I am a driveway warrior, looking to make a few bucks on the side, as easily as possible. I hope my SS lives up to my fantasy. My lifes goal is to retire, collect a big fat pension, and enjoy some grandkids someday. Could care less about where this thread is, as long as it shares good information.


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 10, 2015)

sunfish said:


> Sandhill, have you tried spraying a little wd40 on top of the rack? That's all I do if the returned slows down on mine and then it retracts quicker than it comes out. Also no grease on top of the rack, gotta keep it clean.


I have not done this but it makes perfect sense when you look at the engagement mechanism because the edge of a piece of flat stock drags on top of the rack on return. Grease would certainly collect to much junk.


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 10, 2015)




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## sam-tip (Mar 10, 2015)

I have a question. How close does the ram or rack get to your wedge. My HD will get within 1 inch of the wedge. But my SE only comes within 1.75 inches. Some times it doesn't finish the split on stringy wood.

tappa talk samsung note 2


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## sunfish (Mar 11, 2015)

Sandhill Crane said:


> I have not done this but it makes perfect sense when you look at the engagement mechanism because the edge of a piece of flat stock drags on top of the rack on return. Grease would certainly collect to much junk.


The friction on the top of the rack is usually the cause of slow return. WD-40 really works here for me.

Also, instead of using a rope on the wedge to hold the rack out for maintenance, pull the rack out by hand then pull up on the handle to engage the rack & pinion. This will hold the rack in place.


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## Guswhit (Mar 11, 2015)

sunfish said:


> Also, instead of using a rope on the wedge to hold the rack out for maintenance, pull the rack out by hand then pull up on the handle to engage the rack & pinion. This will hold the rack in place.




Mine will release sometimes and retract using this method. I pull the rack out, engage the handle and then take a pair of vice grips to the rod to hold it up.


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## USMC615 (Mar 11, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> I have a question. How close does the ram or rack get to your wedge. My HD will get within 1 inch of the wedge. But my SE only comes within 1.75 inches. Some times it doesn't finish the split on stringy wood.
> 
> tappa talk samsung note 2



I was curious the same when we put the HD together and wanted to see how consistent the rack travel was... I held about a 16" piece of a spruce 2x4 stud on edge and engaged the rack and it slightly indented the wedge side of the 2x about an 1/8" thick, if that. It made the same indention half a dozen times so mine gets within an 1 3/8" or so consistently.


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## sam-tip (Mar 11, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> I was curious the same when we put the HD together and wanted to see how consistent the rack travel was... I held about a 16" piece of a spruce 2x4 stud on edge and engaged the rack and it slightly indented the wedge side of the 2x about an 1/8" thick, if that. It made the same indention half a dozen times so mine gets within an 1 3/8" or so consistently.



I thought 2 x 4 was a great way to test the wedge distance. So since you guys like pictures. Here is a short video. I do think my wedge is set to far back. Might have to give super split a call. But I know from a conversation with the Split Second engineers this is not a simple weld.


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## KiwiBro (Mar 11, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> I thought 2 x 4 was a great way to test the wedge distance. So since you guys like pictures. Here is a short video. I do think my wedge is set to far back. Might have to give super split a call. But I know from a conversation with the Split Second engineers this is not a simple weld.


Do you have to maintain pressure on the handle to keep it engaged during normal operation?
I mean, does it ever disengage when only moderate pressure comes on unless you hold the handle up?


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## sam-tip (Mar 11, 2015)

KiwiBro said:


> Do you have to maintain pressure on the handle to keep it engaged during normal operation?
> I mean, does it ever disengage when only moderate pressure comes on unless you hold the handle up?



No it stays engage. No pressure needed. Just pull up and it goes until the end of the rack. Got the same measurement by pulling out the rack by hand and then lifting the handle while the motor was not running. But pinching a board with motor running is more fun.


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## KiwiBro (Mar 11, 2015)

Am not near mine to check but am pretty sure it gets closer to the wedge than that.

Would be a pain in stringy wood.


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## sam-tip (Mar 12, 2015)

Yes it is a pain in stringy wood. Had to use a 2 x4 and 3/4 inch piece to get the same demple as 2 x 4 only on the HD.












On the right are 2 strikes from the HD. 2x4 only. On left is one strike on SE with extra 3/4 shim on 2x4


tappa talk samsung note 2


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## USMC615 (Mar 12, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> Yes it is a pain in stringy wood. Had to use a 2 x4 and 3/4 inch piece to get the same demple as 2 x 4 only on the HD.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



...exactly the same as my half dozen or so rack engagement travel '2x4 test.' About an 1/8" deep indentation. After the first hit, I raised the 2x above the bottom wedge weld about half inch and it imprinted it the same depth across the whole rear face of the 2x.


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## Oldman47 (Mar 12, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> I was curious the same when we put the HD together and wanted to see how consistent the rack travel was... I held about a 16" piece of a spruce 2x4 stud on edge and engaged the rack and it slightly indented the wedge side of the 2x about an 1/8" thick, if that. It made the same indention half a dozen times so mine gets within an 1 3/8" or so consistently.


This is totally irrelevant. Nobody except maybe the poster, USMC615, expects a splitter to work across the grain. No way will it ever work that way regardless of the tonnage rating. Splitting is splitting, not cutting to length. If you want to cut to length use a chain saw not a splitter.


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## sam-tip (Mar 12, 2015)

My original question was.

How close does the ram or rack get to your wedge. A 2x4 is just a good way to measure the gap while running splitter. The distance from wedge to ram. We are not cross cutting 2x4's


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## USMC615 (Mar 12, 2015)

Oldman47 said:


> This is totally irrelevant. Nobody except maybe the poster, USMC615, expects a splitter to work across the grain. No way will it ever work that way regardless of the tonnage rating. Splitting is splitting, not cutting to length. If you want to cut to length use a chain saw not a splitter.



Done as a simple gage/measurement test Oldman47, as Sam-tip stated...no we are NOT seeing who can split 2x's across the grain or otherwise!!


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## USMC615 (Mar 12, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> My original question was.
> 
> How close does the ram or rack get to your wedge. A 2x4 is just a good way to measure the gap while running splitter. The distance from wedge to ram. We are not cross cutting 2x4's





sam-tip said:


> My original question was.
> 
> How close does the ram or rack get to your wedge. A 2x4 is just a good way to measure the gap while running splitter. The distance from wedge to ram. We are not cross cutting 2x4's



Doug, curious, without never seeing a SE model, a couple of possible questions in regard to the SE rack travel end point to the wedge, I know you've stated different dimensions btwn both your models, SE and HD...Is the I-beam length the same on the SE as the base framework J and HD model? Is the rack length the same as well? I'm just guessing here but if the same concerning the rack length btwn both models, with its double bevel at the end of the rack, which dictates 'rack up disengagement', and return spring for the retraction, I don't know if the internal housing welds/mount may be a little different btwn your SE and HD model. Again, I'm curious as to any structural differences inside the cover, and they may all be the base framework, just the SE sporting the biggest flywheels by weight, and the end result could be the welded wedge on the SE possibly dictating the difference. I'd like your thoughts and others.


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## sam-tip (Mar 13, 2015)

The end of the I beams are the same length from resting position of ram. 31 1/4 inches. The wedge does sit back 1/4 inch on SE. (26 3/4) SE HD (26 1/2) I will need to pull the covers and measure from the pinion. and length of rack. I thought they were the same rack.

HD









HD








SE






SE






HD measurement point.


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## sam-tip (Mar 13, 2015)

Thinking the rest of the difference is from the different bearing holding the pion. 


HD bearings bolts in and only goes in the slot. 

The SE is a different bearing and is welded. The bearing is subject to the welder on its location.

HD bearing












SE bearing











tappa talk samsung note 2


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## sam-tip (Mar 13, 2015)

Now my plan is to take apart the pushing pad and add a spacer. Then resemble. 








Part 006






tappa talk samsung note 2


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## USMC615 (Mar 14, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> Now my plan is to take apart the pushing pad and add a spacer. Then resemble.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks for the info and detailed pics.


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## sam-tip (Mar 14, 2015)

My mod. Back together. 


















tappa talk samsung note 2


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## USMC615 (Mar 14, 2015)

Nice mod Doug.


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## USMC615 (Mar 15, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Nice mod Doug.



...I think you have definitely solved the 'stringy' issue with particular woods. Great idea and modification.


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## sam-tip (Mar 15, 2015)

I did compare the two rack and pions while I had them apart. They are the same racks on these HD and SE. 

Be sure to use heat to get the bolts loose on the pusher. Must have used some kind of Loctite. With little heat they came out quickly. Then clean the treads with tap and die. Almost ruined one bolt from the left over Loctite.
Also got my follower bearing oiled better while apart.


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## USMC615 (Mar 18, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> My mod. Back together.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Doug, how did the shim/extension work on the ram? Does it split the stringier wood all the way?...At least minimize the effort to pull apart a round and get the other half back in action, ready to go again on the beam? Clever idea on the mod.


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## sam-tip (Mar 19, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Doug, how did the shim/extension work on the ram? Does it split the stringier wood all the way?...At least minimize the effort to pull apart a round and get the other half back in action, ready to go again on the beam? Clever idea on the mod.




Have not tried it yet. Been out of town working. Hope to try it this afternoon. I did talk to Paul from Super Split Monday morning. He first thought I had the wrong rack. But I assured him the racks are the same. At one time they had a mix up from the heat treating company. Another brand uses the same heat treating company. 

From my conversation with Paul I think I can get the pusher closer to the wedge. Paul thought the gap should be closer to 3/4 of and inch not just under a 2x4 width. Paul said the gap used to be very close to the wedge but for safety they increased the distance from the wedge. Might make another spacer with 1" steel for the SE and put this spacer on the HD.


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## USMC615 (Mar 19, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> Took me a while to find the post also. Most of the splitting is at full throttle at charity cuts because at charity cuts there is enough people to keep the splitter busy. For personal splitting the motor is at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle unless the wood is nasty. But then 90% of the hours on my splitters are at charity cuts.
> 
> My tach for motor is just a stick on hour meter that wraps a wire around the spark plug. The meter for the fly wheel is a special device with counter and stop watch built into one. I got it at a garage sale from a old machinist.



Doug, installed a Hardline hour meter/tachometer this afternoon and my rpm's at WOT are 3850-3870 on the Honda 6.5 GX. The paperwork with the meter never gave any +/- tolerance. I can't state accuracy by no means of this thing. It did run the exact rpm range at lowest idle and WOT several times of cutting it off, let sit a few min's, crank it up again. I remember your rpm was 3760 at WOT on your same engine HD, and your SE with the 9 hp Honda GX was 3870. Seems about a hundred rpm difference btwn the HD's. Again, could just be tolerance variable of the tachs.


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## KiwiBro (Mar 20, 2015)

Here's a pretty darn cool hydraulic super split rival, with 4-way wedge.



I'm liking lots of things about this, including it is commercially made and available at a fair price. The wedge I like - adjustable, and the angle on the top focusses the force well.

Max seems to be 9t force. Would prefer it had more without losing speed.


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## KiwiBro (Mar 20, 2015)

What about this for a 'mechanical' splitter?

Swap it out for a big flywheel or pair of them, with a 4-way wedge, and it's a super productive, auto-cycle option.


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## unclemoustache (Mar 21, 2015)

Nice. I wonder what happens when that one jams? Is there a way to back it out, or will the motor get damaged?


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## KiwiBro (Mar 21, 2015)

unclemoustache said:


> Nice. I wonder what happens when that one jams? Is there a way to back it out, or will the motor get damaged?


the motor in that one is electric so will probably have an overload cut out, blow a fuse, burn up the belts or break a few gears ;-)


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## Joesell (Mar 27, 2015)

I took a look at how close my ram gets to the wedge today. I was pretty surprised to see that it actually touches! There's a little gap on most of it, but the middle were the weld is built up touches the wedge. I like it. No problem cutting threw the stringy stuff.


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## dave_dj1 (Mar 27, 2015)

I like how they always seem to have nice straight grained and short wood. Bring one of those babies to my lot and see how long they could hold up to one round, 24-26" long and the same or larger diameter.


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## sunfish (Mar 27, 2015)

dave_dj1 said:


> I like how they always seem to have nice straight grained and short wood. Bring one of those babies to my lot and see how long they could hold up to one round, 24-26" long and the same or larger diameter.


Yep, this splitter ain't for you.


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## USMC615 (Mar 27, 2015)

Joesell said:


> I took a look at how close my ram gets to the wedge today. I was pretty surprised to see that it actually touches! There's a little gap on most of it, but the middle were the weld is built up touches the wedge. I like it. No problem cutting threw the stringy stuff.View attachment 415093



That's odd that under motor power the rack would travel that far to make contact of the weld bead. Yours HD? I remember Sam-tip stating from a conversation with Paul that they had decreased the end travel of the rack for safety reasons. Seems odd we're getting different end travel measurements. I guess maybe when they were made over the yrs is dictating the differences. I would think from a mfg standpoint, end travel to about 1/2" would be an ideal constant to handle stringy stuff, much less the straight grain stuff that pops well before that point.


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## sam-tip (Mar 27, 2015)

Paul did say some did come close to the wedge. But I thought Paul meant older ones. Joesell's super split might be one of them. Wonder when Joesell's was made?

PS I have been slacking on testing my mod to my splitter.


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## USMC615 (Mar 27, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> Paul did say some did come close to the wedge. But I thought Paul meant older ones. Joesell's super split might be one of them. Wonder when Joesell's was made?
> 
> PS I have been slacking on testing my mod to my splitter.



Bad thing about the SS's...no riveted ID plate or otherwise stating model, yr mfg'd, etc. I think it would make a helluva selling point for Paul, especially for folks that buy a used model, and possibly see the age and how well or otherwise the machine has held up. Of course the owner/operator of used machines determines that factor with proper maintenance, etc, from a selling standpoint.


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## KiwiBro (Mar 27, 2015)

I don't think he has any trouble selling them as it is, and that seems to apply to anyone selling a used one. That said, there is always room for improvement, even when the best in class.


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## USMC615 (Mar 27, 2015)

KiwiBro said:


> I don't think he has any trouble selling them as it is, and that seems to apply to anyone selling a used one. That said, there is always room for improvement, even when the best in class.



I agree...but it would be nice if some readily identifiable markings were affixed. That way, a buyer of used could say possibly, 'damn what a machine, and look honey, it's older than both us combined' theory. Certainly wouldn't hurt the sales marketing of such. I can imagine Paul gets his fair share of 'picture sending' when it comes to replacement racks, etc when buyers of used want to rebuild. Btwn three of us now, we've gotten different end travel rack measurements, I think a descriptive, affixed riveted plate ID would certainly help to identify.


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## stratton (Mar 29, 2015)

jrider said:


> Sandhill, thank you very much for your post. I have sold over 100 cords the last 2 years and have been seriously thinking about getting one of these machines ( I currently have an I&O with a 4 way) and it has always seemed too good to be true that there was no information regarding durability, wear and tear, maintenance, etc.
> For those who have run 100's of cords through theirs, how have they held up? What kind of down times and maintenance costs have you encountered?


JRIDER, I sell 100-150 crds per yr.... The ss i use now is well over 5 yrs old. This machine will need a flywheeel gear soon but i still have some time left. The first ss i brought was back in "89" This is my 3rd machine. Luke.


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## Joesell (Mar 29, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> That's odd that under motor power the rack would travel that far to make contact of the weld bead. Yours HD? I remember Sam-tip stating from a conversation with Paul that they had decreased the end travel of the rack for safety reasons. Seems odd we're getting different end travel measurements. I guess maybe when they were made over the yrs is dictating the differences. I would think from a mfg standpoint, end travel to about 1/2" would be an ideal constant to handle stringy stuff, much less the straight grain stuff that pops well before that point.



When I took the picture, it was with the motor off. I pulled the rack out by hand. I didn't think it would make a difference. It's an HD.



sam-tip said:


> Paul did say some did come close to the wedge. But I thought Paul meant older ones. Joesell's super split might be one of them. Wonder when Joesell's was made?
> 
> PS I have been slacking on testing my mod to my splitter.



Mine is only about 6 weeks old.


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## USMC615 (Mar 29, 2015)

If ya pull the ram head manually, they'll all go to the wedge...under engine load is where we see the difference...I think all about the bevel end on the rack determines draw back.


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## Joesell (Mar 29, 2015)

If I get a chance, I'll try the 2x4 test


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## sam-tip (Mar 29, 2015)

I did get a chance to run my modified pusher yesterday. Worked great on some fresh Elm and Ash. Building on 1" spacer now. The one I tried was 0.65 ".


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## USMC615 (Mar 29, 2015)

Joesell said:


> If I get a chance, I'll try the 2x4 test


Gotcha. Yeh we're looking at the dimensions under power...just seems screwy to me based on model type same, or not. Be real curious as to what your end travel is though.


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## USMC615 (Mar 29, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> I did get a chance to run my modified pusher yesterday. Worked great on some fresh Elm and Ash. Building on 1" spacer now. The one I tried was 0.65 ".
> 
> Great... Good deal. I think the 1" should serve ya well over the 5/8 or so. Let us know how it goes.


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## sam-tip (Mar 31, 2015)

Did the board test with bigger spacer. My gap is now 0.57 inches. Perfect! 







tappa talk samsung note 2


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## USMC615 (Apr 2, 2015)

Guys, hate to sound like an full-blown ass on this one, but... When I was taking my measurements (around and inch and three eights) end ram travel, it was with the motor at idle or just above. I thought it would be the same regardless of engine speed. Have had several things goin on lately so haven't spent a whole lotta time foolin with the splitter. Ran it 3/4 throttle, to WOT throttle this evening...put a 1x4 (3/4 thick on edge) and the x-weld on the ram made about a 1/16 impression contact with it at both throttle settings. These racks ain't got no 'stretch' to em, lol. Test your racks themselves at different motor rpm's, still just odd to me given a fixed rack length, the travel is a different length. Just throwing this out there to make sure I can read a tape measure and a known board thickness, lol.


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## Sandhill Crane (Apr 3, 2015)

Could be the nut adjustment above and below the handle effects the engagement angle of the piece riding on top of the rack, and therefore would/could give differing results. Just guessing.


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## sam-tip (May 4, 2015)

I have been testing out my mod and really like it. Splits Ash and Elm great. But. I have had the rack go beyond the pinion three times now. Could it be as simple as adjusting the nut on the bottom of pull handle. The rack comes out of the guide and doesn't return. It pushed the modded pusher into the wedge.


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## Cneb5 (May 6, 2015)

I finally got to make a sweet pile in my driveway! No regrets here, on over paying(investing) for a used machine!


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## USMC615 (May 7, 2015)

Cneb5 said:


> View attachment 423128
> I finally got to make a sweet pile in my driveway! No regrets here, on over paying(investing) for a used machine!



...nice pile of splits. Now the fun begins carting, wheelbarrowing and stackin. Lol


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## USMC615 (May 7, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> I have been testing out my mod and really like it. Splits Ash and Elm great. But. I have had the rack go beyond the pinion three times now. Could it be as simple as adjusting the nut on the bottom of pull handle. The rack comes out of the guide and doesn't return. It pushed the modded pusher into the wedge.



...Doug, taking a guess here, could be the cam followers/rollers on top of the rack, where the handle pivots to engage and push the ram down into the pinion gear inbetween the flywheels. Sounds to me like the most suspect place to look. Any splitter trash, splinters, or otherwise there? Something is hindering between the end bevel of the rack from disengaging from the flywheel pinion gear, then spring return takes over, or it's followers on the top side of the rack, allowing full and then some travel, allowing the rack to 'shoot' all the way out. I'm just taking a stab at it. If you've corrected, and this was not the problem, please advise so we know possibly what to look for in the future. Thx, Jason.


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## sam-tip (May 18, 2015)

My splitters is still acting up. Now I think it is because of my mod of spacing out the pusher. With the shim it provides more torque and the spring under the rack isn't strong enough to lift the rack off of the pinion gear. Used both HD and SE for 8 hours on each machine this weekend. They would every once in a while push the rack out to far. With 35 people, 2 kinetic splitters and 3 hydro we were able to split 50 cord of wood.


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## tntblaster14 (Jun 27, 2016)

I'm going to buy a SS HD this July !! Can't wait !! I'm not a good welder, so most of these mods are probably out of my reach, but I am so excited to start splitting wood without a maul, wedge, and axe anymore


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## USMC615 (Jun 27, 2016)

tntblaster14 said:


> I'm going to buy a SS HD this July !! Can't wait !! I'm not a good welder, so most of these mods are probably out of my reach, but I am so excited to start splitting wood without a maul, wedge, and axe anymore


Wise choice my man...Wise choice. You'll be forever greatful to join the SS club. Trust me.


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## tntblaster14 (Oct 20, 2016)

Been running my HD SS for a few weeks now. Only issue I have is that sometimes on larger or knotty pieces the ram gets stuck up against the wood, and when I try to disengage you hear a chattering sound. So what I've been doing is gently pushing the ram back off the log with a pry bar. doesn't take much force, its like it stalled out (but not literally as engine/wheels are moving). Any remedies?

I really do like it though, by myself I can split a cord an hour easily...


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## Guswhit (Oct 20, 2016)

I have had mine stick a few times as well. I have a 3# maul with me and usually can just tap it out of the jamb. I shut the motor down first though.


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## RyeThomas (Oct 21, 2016)

I'm in the market for a new splitter and ran across the Kinetics. I also looked at the dual direction machines and faster cycling hydraulic units. 

For those of you that have gone this route (kinetic) are you still 100% happy with your purchase?
I have contacted SuperSplit and I have been very happy with the speed in which my questions have been answered and the ability to to talk to a expert on the machine.


I am close to pulling the trigger but I will admit it's a lot more than I want to spend.

Thanks in advance, Rye.

Op sorry for the derail but this seemed like the quickest way for an answer.

Semper Fi 0331 Camp Pendleton Ca.


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## Guswhit (Oct 21, 2016)

First, welcome aboard! To honestly give you any input for your choice I would need to know what you are going to be doing? I mean, are you going to be selling wood or just for personal use? I would say it is difficult to justify the cost for the SS for personnel use only unless you just have extra money you want to spend.


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## RyeThomas (Oct 21, 2016)

I heat my home with firewood and a pellet stove, and average winter I burn 8-9 chords (my home is not efficient). I understand that's not a lot to most but I hate splitting. I have plenty of areas to get wood, I enjoy felling trees and using my truck and trailer, but I hate splitting wood with a passion.

I have a old MTD/Yard machine 26/28 ton, I can't remember exactly.
It's killing my back as I get older to run the machine And I'm not sure I want to invest money in it for a table, or to raise it, etc.

Time is a huge factor as well. I have 3 small children that are too little to help but like a warm home. 

Thanks, Rye.


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## Guswhit (Oct 21, 2016)

I personally wouldn't invest the $3,000 plus dollars for the SS in your current situation. How much ever I love mine now if I only had 8-9 cord to do I couldn't justify the cost. There are plenty of other hydraulics out there that would do the job easy enough for you at a third the cost, or as you indicated, some mod's to your current one to make it easier on you body. Even if you can only do half the amount of processing finished splits your payback is going to be along time. I have 2 young children as well so I know your time constraints. I have found that I can actually get them entertained for about an hour at a crack with some stacking so the wife can get tot he store or other short time out for her. Just a couple of quick thoughts for you.


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## KiwiBro (Oct 21, 2016)

RyeThomas said:


> I heat my home with firewood and a pellet stove, and average winter I burn 8-9 chords (my home is not efficient). I understand that's not a lot to most but I hate splitting. I have plenty of areas to get wood, I enjoy felling trees and using my truck and trailer, but I hate splitting wood with a passion.
> 
> I have a old MTD/Yard machine 26/28 ton, I can't remember exactly.
> It's killing my back as I get older to run the machine And I'm not sure I want to invest money in it for a table, or to raise it, etc.
> ...


Unless in very stringy or very knotty wood, do it. Do it now. You will not regret it. Yes they are not cheap. But yes, you will make better use of your very precious time and yes, you will have an heirloom to hand down to one of the kids when it's time for them to start splitting firewood for you. And yes, if you ever decide to sell it they hold their value very well (the splitter that is, selling kids is a bit hit and miss).


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## Cneb5 (Oct 21, 2016)

Best. Purchase. Ever. I only split very part time, and i've managed to pay off the splitter, a new echo cs590, and a utility trailer with mine. Put a little cash in my pocket as well. I originally thought i would only sell enough wood to pay off the splitter, and now its starting to turn into a part time gig. My SS makes the little bit of time i have, very productive, and proffitable.


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## Rudedog (Oct 22, 2016)

Cneb5 said:


> Best. Purchase. Ever. I only split very part time, and i've managed to pay off the splitter, a new echo cs590, and a utility trailer with mine. Put a little cash in my pocket as well. I originally thought i would only sell enough wood to pay off the splitter, and now its starting to turn into a part time gig. My SS makes the little bit of time i have, very productive, and profitable.


Agreed. I really love mine. You really see the value of the speed of the machine if you have an assistant to feed you the wood.


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## sunfish (Oct 22, 2016)

RyeThomas said:


> I'm in the market for a new splitter and ran across the Kinetics. I also looked at the dual direction machines and faster cycling hydraulic units.
> 
> For those of you that have gone this route (kinetic) are you still 100% happy with your purchase?
> I have contacted SuperSplit and I have been very happy with the speed in which my questions have been answered and the ability to to talk to a expert on the machine.
> ...


I bought the SS J model over 6 years ago and love it! At around $2500 it was well worth the price! I'd do it again in a heart beat. I process between 8 - 15 cords per year.


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## ptjeep (Oct 24, 2016)

Just bought a j model a few months ago and it has slowed down my wood processing. Why?...... because it's so fun to use that I end up turning all of my wood into kindling. Love the machine, don't regret one bit, would buy it again. I also love the simplicity of it.


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## dancan (Oct 24, 2016)

I have a J that was made under license in Canada before Paul was with SS
I bought it used for 450$ and was happy to pay , fast forward a few years and me and a friend buy some hardwood fore selling , his young fella wanted to earn some monies , both of them had never seen or heard of such a devise , 20 cord later they understand the device and know the value .
It has since gotten a Honda upgrade and the pinion is showing a bit of wear so we're gonna order a new one because parts are available , ask Paul how long he's been there since this one is before his time ...


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## Rudedog (Oct 25, 2016)

Not to sound like a total idiot but where can I get the grease tip to grease up the 90 lbs wheels. I've never used the type of tip required and don't know the first thing about it. I've got the gun but the wheels take a different tip than I use to grease the hinges and wheels on all of my equipment.


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## dancan (Oct 25, 2016)

Take the grease nipples out and replace with the same as your equipment uses .


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## Rudedog (Oct 26, 2016)

dancan said:


> Take the grease nipples out and replace with the same as your equipment uses .


Oh. That's a good idea.


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