# Truck Bed Side Rails



## upsnake (Jun 27, 2011)

Ok picture time everybody.  
 
I have tried searching over and over and not having much luck find examples of side rails. I am going to look at my first truck on wed, a 96 F-250 long bed. 

I remember seeing somebody's on here not too log ago that had nice looking stained wood that if I recall correctly they used a router and had a removable wood tailgate.

I want to build some rails that look nice and just wondering what other people have. So a chance to share some ideas/ show off your setup. 

Thanks Guys.


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## D&B Mack (Jun 27, 2011)

I don't use sideboards on mine, so sorry. :msp_sad: But a guy I know used aluminum bleacher seats he got from a demo job he did. It actually looked pretty good. I will try to get a pic from him, but something to think about.


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## D&B Mack (Jun 27, 2011)

It was the bench style seating like in a high school football stadium BTW. (Sounded a little funny after I posted and reread)


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## upsnake (Jun 27, 2011)

Hmmm maybe I won't need rails. How much wood do you normally get in the truck? 

Just figured it would help


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## Wood Doctor (Jun 27, 2011)

*May Have Been Mine*

I made my side rails several years ago and use them today on a smaller truck than yours--Ford Ranger XLT:






They still work beautifully. I suggest that you not build them up too high because I can still load and unload mine with them on. If they go over a foot, you will have to remove them before unloading from the side. Even if only 8" high, you still add quite a bit of capacity to your load. Mine jumps nearly 30% in volume as I mound it up.

The back gate should always be removable:





I used 3/8" steel pins for this joinery, similar to a loose hinge, and added a hardwood knob on top to help pull them out. I made my rails with 4/4 ash hardwood and built them up as needed. The posts are 8/4 and drop into the side panel wells. I rarely remove them--perhaps once a year to slap on a coat of varnish on the posts and the rails. Note that the posts are bolted to the side rails, so they come apart as a unit.






When loading the truck, I place the back gate right behind the back window for protection. Frankly, I have no idea how I got along without them.


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## upsnake (Jun 27, 2011)

Wood Doctor, your truck was the one that I was thinking about I just couldn't remember whose it was. Nice job on the rails. 

If i put something on there, I want it to look decent. I searched google and some of them where just plywood slapped up there, didn't look so good, in my opinion at least. hahah


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## Wood Doctor (Jun 27, 2011)

upsnake said:


> Wood Doctor, your truck was the one that I was thinking about I just couldn't remember whose it was. Nice job on the rails.
> 
> If i put something on there, I want it to look decent. I searched google and some of them where just plywood slapped up there, didn't look so good, in my opinion at least. hahah


Plywood is the pits when it comes to side rails for several reasons. First, it splinters when you use it and that's really a hazzard. Second, it weathers lousy and puckers. Third, it looks cheap. Fourth, it's a mess to work with. Frankly, I hate the stuff.

Stick with ash, oak, hard maple, hickory, cherry, or yellow birch. These are tough as nails. Ash is probably the easiest to work with and the cheapest around here. That's why I used it. If you have to use softwood, consider Douglas fir. Doug fir is strong and light, but be prepared for splintering and dealng with knots.

Note that you do not need "2 by" thickness when working with hardwoods. 4/4 is a hair over 3/4" thick, and that's probably strong enough. If you have three wells in the panels, use all three for the posts. I had only two, and that's all I needed for a 6' box. Bolt the posts to the rails with carriage bolts as shown in my Pics, counter boring for the washers and nuts, and get rid of all sharp corners and edges. That back pinned joint to the back rail is darned important. Spend some time on it. :msp_wink:


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## unclemoustache (Jun 27, 2011)

Nice, Wood Doctor!

I was going to post a pic of my 2x3's and plywood, but I changed my mind.


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## zogger (Jun 27, 2011)

*haven't built them yet, but.....*

I was thinking of small cedar logs ripped/milled in half, with the round side out, so the side rails looked a little log cabin-ish. Like two high. Just for grins... Cedar because it is tough enough and naturally rot and bug proof, kinda sorta, the red cedar around here anyway, not western white cedar. That stuff is a bumblebee magnet...


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## D&B Mack (Jun 28, 2011)

upsnake said:


> Hmmm maybe I won't need rails. How much wood do you normally get in the truck?
> 
> Just figured it would help


 
I don't use them because I use trailers. Go for it, you have a great example above.


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## D&B Mack (Jun 28, 2011)

Wood Doctor said:


> I made my side rails several years ago and use them today on a smaller truck than yours--Ford Ranger XLT:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Well, don't think you are going to get a nicer example than this, good work.


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## gwiley (Jun 28, 2011)

After seeing that beautiful set of rail I almost didn't post mine:






It may be ugly, but before you mock me, let me explain:

- A 4x4 F350 sits too high to work from the sides anyway, and the extra height really helps at times. With a 1 ton truck (or the OP 3/4 ton) the extra height is useful.

- I used PT 5/4 board and have hit it pretty hard without breaking it.

- Used galvanized angle iron (used to hang garage doors etc.) to wrap 2 sides of the 2x2 posts - made them almost unbreakable.

- Used U bolts through the 5/4 boards to reduce the chance of popping a screw or bolt through the board.


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## Kensterfly (Jun 28, 2011)

I have a nice looking F-150 but if I'm hauling scrounged firewood I couldn't care less how attractive it looks. I just want something to do the job. If some stakes in the corners and some scrounged up plywood will do the job-- fine by me! I don't buy wood and what I accumulate is at as minimal expense as possible. Ugly is cheap.


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## upsnake (Jun 28, 2011)

Kensterfly -- While I agree cheap it good, if for a few extra dollars if i can make something that looks nice. (don't know if i can make something that looks as nice as Wood Docs but)... If you are going to do something mine as well do it the best you can.


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## Kensterfly (Jun 28, 2011)

upsnake said:


> Kensterfly -- While I agree cheap it good, if for a few extra dollars if i can make something that looks nice. (don't know if i can make something that looks as nice as Wood Docs but)... If you are going to do something mine as well do it the best you can.



Fair enough, Upsnake. Truth be told, I don't have the skills or the tools to do much fancy work with wood. And I don't begrudge those who do, or who want go a little fancier. We all have different priorities.

However, I do like to look, so when you get your rig all set up I'd love to see it!

Cheers,
Ken


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## upsnake (Jun 28, 2011)

I hope i didn't come across in a accusing manner, I didn't mean to but as I looked at my post again I can see how it could be read that way. 

I don't have a truck yet, I am going to go look at one tomorrow. If it looks good I will have one tomorrow if not the search continues. Hahah.  Once / If i do anything i will be sure to post some pics.


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## Kensterfly (Jun 28, 2011)

Lordy, Upsnake. You didn't say anything at all that offended me. I know that sometimes it's hard to know how to take something that is said in written form. Anything in writing is subject to the interpretation of the reader and I've learned the hard way that sometimes what I have written is taken the wrong way. But I don't think anyone on this message board bears any ill will to anyone else on the board, even when they strongly disagree with something.

And I wasn't even disagreeing with you. I was just saying that our needs and priorities are different.

Cheers!

Ken


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## indiansprings (Jun 28, 2011)

I just use treated 2 x 8's on our flat bed. They keep anything from rolling off, including the dog.


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## Kingsley (Jun 29, 2011)

Here is my set up. 2x6 posts in front with 2x4 in the rear 2 posts. 1x4 down the side and 2x6 behind the cab. I installed hinges, so when pulled out it folds. I also painted it black since then.

View attachment 188983
View attachment 188984


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## TMFARM 2009 (Jun 29, 2011)

i had a set made for my gooseneck 4 years ago made from hedge. my freind milled the lumber and i will say it was tough as nails and weathered well... the guy who bought the trailer wanted them with it ....i will be making another set for my flat bed soon...the older they get the harder it gets...plus i tend to like the color when completed..


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## Wood Doctor (Jun 30, 2011)

*Building Up Too High*

I have noticed that several of our firewood haulers tend to build the side rails up too high. You usually don't need more than a foot because you will tend to overload the truck. This is especialy true when hauling about any green wood or even dry oak, locust, hickory, etc. -- the species with the highest heat value (BTU/Lb). My truck is light duty, but even a 1-ton pickup can easily be overloaded by green firewood.

Note than any side rails at all will generally result in loading and unloading difficulty from the side. You will have to get used to climbing up into the truck, especially to remove logs from the center of the bed. One of my friends tried to use tarps to pull the wood out, and that produced nothing except lots of ripped tarps.

I have found that a rail behind the cab window is unnecessary as long as you use the rear rail to protect the window while loading. Seldom does wood stacked above the panels slide forward after loading, and if it does, it won't slide hard enough to cause damage (unless you have a collision). Just don't follow anyone very closely when loaded.

When racked up high, it's always best to cross tie ropes over the load as shown in the Pic above. I keep two ropes handy, one on each side of the rack, tied at the front of the rails. If nothing else, the tied down load gives you piece of mind while driving.


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## Kingsley (Jun 30, 2011)

My hauls are usually less than 25 miles one way loaded. My truck is loaded full, but it is all seasoned wood. I never haul green wood with my racks, that is what the gooseneck is for. 

I'd say go high with the racks. It isn't that big of a deal to climb in and toss out. It takes 2 people at a not too stressing pace 30 minutes to load a full cord in my truck. It takes us 10 minutes to unload. We don't stack it in and we throw it in a pile when delivering.

I love racks! Who Doesn't? :msp_biggrin:


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## Wood Doctor (Jun 30, 2011)

*Racks and Green Wood*



Kingsley said:


> My truck is loaded full, but it is all seasoned wood. I never haul green wood with my racks, that is what the gooseneck is for...
> 
> ... I love racks! Who Doesn't? :msp_biggrin:



+1. Well said. Some species of wood weigh nearly 40% more when green--mulberry and hackberry (for that matter about any berry wood) come to mind. It's also easy to overload when the wood it still in the round rather than split. The combination of green wood and wood in the round is a double whammy.


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## upsnake (Jun 30, 2011)

Well the truck search continues, so I am not ready for racks yet. Haha

The truck that i looked at didn't have any rust in the pictures but had rust in real life, which eh ok. But the drivers side rear brakes were dripping brake fluid and you could smell gas when you go near it. So passed on that one and the search continues. Hahah


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## Sport Faller (Jun 30, 2011)

damn, are you guys entering a firewood parade with all these fancy lumber racks :jester:

I can't very well post the pics of my scabbed together plywood and scrap stud racks


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## TMFARM 2009 (Jun 30, 2011)

*i agree about too high of rails... i put some monster racks on mine this winter and spread the bed...lol, now i have a tail gate that sets in the barn...*
View attachment 189063

View attachment 189064


i only made them half racks but it still spread it out....:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


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## Wood Doctor (Jun 30, 2011)

*Check the Springs Occasionally*

To prevent an overload, I generally examine the leaf springs (and the tires) as I load up. Flat springs mean you are done and perhaps done for when you hit a good bump at 55 mph.

It's rather easy to make a heavy load of firewood really expensive.


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## TMFARM 2009 (Jun 30, 2011)

yep on most that would work... my sd has overloads and once set down on them the only limit is what falls back off....:msp_w00t:


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## TMFARM 2009 (Jun 30, 2011)

just another good reason to put the flat bed on...now that i am healing up, i will get something done finally...


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## trailmaker (Jun 30, 2011)

I have this rail and headache rack combo on my tacoma. It doesn't add much height but I can't carry much in the Tacoma anyway.


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## Kensterfly (Jun 30, 2011)

Trailmaker, that's a great way of keeping the mosquitoes off your firewood, too!


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## upsnake (Jun 30, 2011)

TMFARM 2009 said:


> *i agree about too high of rails... i put some monster racks on mine this winter and spread the bed...lol, now i have a tail gate that sets in the barn...*
> View attachment 189063
> 
> View attachment 189064
> ...


 
Why only half rails?


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## Blackbruin (Jul 1, 2011)

I have a 3/4 ton 04 dodge ram. I put rough cut hemlock sides and a hook and chain in the back.(to keep it fom spreading under load) The height is even with the top of the cab. I routed the edges round, used 2x4 for stake pockets and 1x 12's for the rails. bolted the all together. I also added a pair of 5000lb aeon bulbs. They replace your bump stop and add extra capacity. I have yet to bottom out the springs, even with green hickory or sugar maple in rounds, or plit just enough to pick up. I figure carry as much as you can per trip, to maximize the cost of your fuel and time.


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## TMFARM 2009 (Jul 1, 2011)

upsnake said:


> Why only half rails?


 
the bed is rusted out from underneath i had a b&w turn over ball gooseneck hitch installed and it held all the salt etc. up under the bed and rotted out the cross members for the floor.. 
so being aware of that i used half racks to the top of the cab and the bed spread so wide my tail gate doesn't fit anymore....
i have a steel flat bed to replace it but haven't had time to install it yet..meanwhile the steel bed is setting on pallets by the barn rusting.. lol its made of 3/16" thick diamond plate its heavy...
when i get it put on it will get a full set of racks, and a set of dually rims....


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## upsnake (Jul 2, 2011)

Well Here it is,  

Picked it up last night, It is a 96 F250, it has a 125k miles on it, 4x4 with an 8' bed, the 351 motor in it.  


View attachment 189265
View attachment 189266
View attachment 189267
View attachment 189268
View attachment 189270


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## Pcoz88 (Jul 2, 2011)

Great looking wood hauler!!!! Put some sides on it!!:msp_thumbsup::msp_thumbsup:


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## Hddnis (Jul 3, 2011)

upsnake said:


> Well Here it is,
> 
> Picked it up last night, It is a 96 F250, it has a 125k miles on it, 4x4 with an 8' bed, the 351 motor in it.
> 
> ...





Nice truck.

We've gotten over 300k out of the 351 motors before an overhaul. They do like a regular oil change and good clean air.

What trans does it have?



Mr. HE


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## Big_Al (Jul 3, 2011)

Is anyone using old military surplus rails? A lot of the old chevy 1028's and dodge 880's (military pickups) had side rail/troop seat combo's installed. I looked for a set for quite a while but never had any luck finding any close by, kind of heavy and bulky to ship cheaply. They are very well built. They can be used as normal bed rails or you could fold down the troop seat for passengers to ride on. When we go camping or driving around the woods the kids always want to ride in the back.


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## mikey517 (Jul 3, 2011)

View attachment 189382


This is my everyday ride. A guy took down a small oak on his front lawn - he just wanted it off the lawn.


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## Wood Doctor (Jul 3, 2011)

*A Beast!*

Upsnake, your new woodhauler is a beast.

Looks like scarlet red. Maybe Nebraska colors will catch on in Michigan.


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## upsnake (Jul 3, 2011)

Haha Maybe the colors will. 

The beast is being a pain in the side today, had a brake line go,  I was only rolling along so no major problems as far as stopping. 
So off to the store tomorrow morning for some brake line, (the line from the master cylinder to the front brakes block was the only line that has not been replaced), which considering it is the easiest to do you would have thought you would just redo it while you were doing the other ones but oh well...

Then it needs new mufflers, shocks and has an exhaust manifold leak (that one i am not sure I want to tackle), but once i get those couple things done I can look at side rails, and stop playing mechanic and actually go cut some wood. 

I am not sure what trans it has, I would think it is the E4OD, but the trans has been replaced, as well as the rear axle. The axle was swapped out with a 1 ton axle. I can't wait to get the bed full and see what it does to the springs and how it handles.  hahaha


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## Wood Doctor (Jul 4, 2011)

*Used Trucks...*

... tend to always have bugs that need to be fixed. You might want to have a complete inspection done by a good mechanic that knows Fords inside and out. Usually, it's worth the time and money. If you got a good buy on it, consider giving much of the discount to the mechanic.

A stitch in time saves nine. This truck looks to be cosmetically in good shape. You seem to be a good do-it-yourselfer, so keep your chin up and bite the bullet on the parts. They tend to be expensive. Running well, a Ford F-250 is a brute and will give you years of service.


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## TMFARM 2009 (Jul 6, 2011)

yep, when they say its ford tough they aren't lying.. if the manifold has gotten hot enough to pop the head off the bolt to create the leak,you may want to check into a new catalytic converter...
it will haul anything you want... nice ride...


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## brisawyer (Jul 7, 2011)

Hey trailmaker What brand is that head rack/side rail combo? I want one!


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## olyman (Jul 7, 2011)

Wood Doctor said:


> You will have to get used to climbing up into the truck, especially to remove logs from the center of the bed. .


 
nuh uh....fell onto this by accident...made a rod,out of the center rod of a farm hydrant..7/16,,and harder then........but cutable..get a piece, approx 6 foot long..[could use 1/2 rebar also..3/8 will flex!!] cut a piece 6 in long off,,and grind the end burrs. take the longer piece,and grind one end to a dull point. find the universal fit blue wrench[torch], and make a 5 in bend on the pointed end at just over 90 degrees.. now take the short chunk,,and weld it on the other end,,at 90 deg to the bent piece..its now the handle,,,, the one i made at first,,was shorter,,to use to turn logs in the furnace the way i wanted them...........carried it outside one day,,and tried it to pull logs out of the truck bed..worked great!!!! make varying lengths, if need be................beats climbing into the bed all to holler....................


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## olyman (Jul 7, 2011)

TMFARM 2009 said:


> *i agree about too high of rails... i put some monster racks on mine this winter and spread the bed...lol, now i have a tail gate that sets in the barn...*
> View attachment 189063
> 
> View attachment 189064
> ...


 
nawww,, you just now,,have "wings" on the back!!!! thats what happened to any old farm truck,,the backs would break,,and the 
"wings" would flap in the breeze............


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## olyman (Jul 7, 2011)

upsnake said:


> Haha Maybe the colors will.
> 
> The beast is being a pain in the side today, had a brake line go,  I was only rolling along so no major problems as far as stopping.
> So off to the store tomorrow morning for some brake line, (the line from the master cylinder to the front brakes block was the only line that has not been replaced), which considering it is the easiest to do you would have thought you would just redo it while you were doing the other ones but oh well...
> ...


 
not ALL 351's had e4od's behind them.. get the biggest cooler you can on there, for the trans....just one heavy load,,on a hot day,,could smoke the trans....


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## upsnake (Jul 7, 2011)

olyman -- I will have to go under and see what it has, would it be stamped on the trans somewhere? Also the trans cooler would be just another raditor so to speak right or? 

I was debating if i wanted to put a trans temp gauge on it or not. I was looking at some other websites on how to do it. haha There are other more pressing things right now. 

The shocks have been ordered. Then it is time for new mufflers. I am thinking i am going to put flowmaster 40's on it. I should just be able to cut the old mufflers off and weld the new ones in. I think at least.  I still need to figure out what size exhaust pipes it has.

Then after that is done I am going to start working on building a headache rack for it.


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## Bammer (Jul 10, 2011)

My truck bed racks

5/4 PT decking

2 x 4's

SS bolts

zinc plated corner brackets

Strong, easy on and off and carry a boatload of wood!

View attachment 190068


View attachment 190070


View attachment 190071


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## olyman (Jul 10, 2011)

upsnake said:


> olyman -- I will have to go under and see what it has, would it be stamped on the trans somewhere? Also the trans cooler would be just another raditor so to speak right or?
> 
> I was debating if i wanted to put a trans temp gauge on it or not. I was looking at some other websites on how to do it. haha There are other more pressing things right now.
> 
> ...


 
get your vin,,and call,or go to the Ford dealer...


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## TMFARM 2009 (Jul 10, 2011)

upsnake said:


> olyman -- I will have to go under and see what it has, would it be stamped on the trans somewhere? Also the trans cooler would be just another raditor so to speak right or?
> 
> I was debating if i wanted to put a trans temp gauge on it or not. I was looking at some other websites on how to do it. haha There are other more pressing things right now.
> 
> ...


 
yes... its similar to a radiator.
my 250 has coolers on everything, power steering, trans, oil, all three coolers look similar but are located different places.


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## trailmaker (Jul 11, 2011)

brisawyer said:


> Hey trailmaker What brand is that head rack/side rail combo? I want one!



The brand is Rack-It inc. It's turned out to be really handy. It also comes with a crossbar that mounts to the side rails, as shown in the picture.


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## novaman64 (Jul 11, 2011)

Trailmaker-

What kind of box is that you have in the bed??? Do you know the dimensions? I just picked up a little Toyota pickup to commute in (my fill size chevy was killing me in fuel) and wanted to throw a little box since its a single cab. Theres a ton of places I can stop and cut firewood on the way home, was gonna do a headache rack and a little box. But don't want one over the rails because it would interfere with the livestock rack when I have its on....


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## daywalker (Jul 11, 2011)

Upsnake- What is the GVW on that 250? It will say on the door tag.


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## upsnake (Jul 11, 2011)

8600 for the gvw

Just got the shocks replaced the other day, it drives a whole lot better, all four were shot. Next get the mufflers replaced, then it will be good to go, 

At that point i will start looking at sides and a headache rack. Prob going to build the headache rack myself.


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## trailmaker (Jul 11, 2011)

novaman64 said:


> Trailmaker-
> 
> What kind of box is that you have in the bed??? Do you know the dimensions? I just picked up a little Toyota pickup to commute in (my fill size chevy was killing me in fuel) and wanted to throw a little box since its a single cab. Theres a ton of places I can stop and cut firewood on the way home, was gonna do a headache rack and a little box. But don't want one over the rails because it would interfere with the livestock rack when I have its on....


 That's actually a fuel transfer tank without the pump in it.


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## daywalker (Jul 11, 2011)

Then it's an e4od.


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## upsnake (Jul 12, 2011)

Did they have different versions of the F250 with different GVW for that year?


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## shelbythedog (Jul 14, 2011)

I have posted pics of these racks on AS before, built them for my Dad awhile back. They hold just a touch over 1 cord.


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## TMFARM 2009 (Jul 14, 2011)

trailmaker said:


> That's actually a fuel transfer tank without the pump in it.


 
now there's a serious cutter... when you need a transfer tank to hold all your saw gas....awesome..:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


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