# Pulling logs/sticks with rope?



## PB (Sep 21, 2011)

I need to pull some small logs (max 10" dia, 10' long, dry maple) closer to a road. The problem is that they are about 100' off the road, and that much steel cable isn't possible because of money and I don't want to spend that much for something that may get used 2 times a year. The local tool/tarp/rope store has 5/8" SuperPro rope for sale. It is a 3 strand poly rope with a breaking strength of about 10,000 lbs. Would this rope work, or do you think it is a waste of money? I have only used cable and chains for pulling logs so I don't know jack about the characteristics of rope. I am afraid it will stretch over that long distance and the actual breaking strength will be decreased with that long of a rope.

I got a firewood permit from the local timber company and they have piles of seasoned/dry maple but I can't get to it with my truck. Occasionally the logs are stuck on top of a slash pile (they aren't huge piles) and I don't want to be running a saw up there so I would like to pull it down. 

Superpro


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## 2dogs (Sep 21, 2011)

The rope you refered to should do the job OK as long as it is not damaged. You will need to set a block up as high as possible so the rope never hits the ground, at least 8', higher is better. Don't hitch the rope to the log but use a separate choker, say a 6' piece of heavy rope. Tie the ropes together and figure on cutting them apart when the job is over.

Use a light touch on the throttle and free any stuck logs by hand, not by pulling too hard.


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## flushcut (Sep 21, 2011)

2dogs said:


> The rope you refered to should do the job OK as long as it is not damaged. You will need to set a block up as high as possible so the rope never hits the ground, at least 8', higher is better. Don't hitch the rope to the log but use a separate choker, say a 6' piece of heavy rope. Tie the ropes together and figure on cutting them apart when the job is over.
> 
> Use a light touch on the throttle and free any stuck logs by hand, not by pulling too hard.


 
I would go with chain as the choker and splice in a thimble with a shackle to attach the two. I mean you are spending the money for the rope might as well try and get every last penny out of it with multiple uses.


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## 2dogs (Sep 21, 2011)

flushcut said:


> I would go with chain as the choker and splice in a thimble with a shackle to attach the two. I mean you are spending the money for the rope might as well try and get every last penny out of it with multiple uses.


 
Yep, that will work too. Splicing 3-strand is easy as pie.


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## PB (Sep 21, 2011)

Thanks guys, I will pick up some this weekend and give it a go. Any place to get a tutorial on splicing? I have never spliced rope but would like to learn.


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## Slamm (Sep 21, 2011)

I'm not against the idea, but don't just stand there staring at it, I'd hide behind something. I've seen ropes break and the violence that results afterwards is not pretty.

Getting a snatch block mounted high would be a lot better than 100 drag with the rope at say bumper level, the log is just going to plow into the ground and you will test that 10,000 rating pretty quick. See if you can chain a pulley or something in a low hanging tree and run the rope through there.

Here is the best advise, try to find wood somewhere else, LOL. You have a lot of hard work ahead of you and a potentially a smashed back windshield if that rope breaks, LOL.

Have fun,

Sam


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## hammerlogging (Sep 21, 2011)

Slamm said:


> and a potentially a smashed back windshield if that rope breaks, LOL.
> 
> Have fun,
> 
> Sam



Throwing a sweatshirt or something over the line will help keep its recoil under control if it were to break


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## PB (Sep 21, 2011)

Slamm said:


> ...........but don't just stand there staring at it, I'd hide behind something.


 
No #### Sherlock. 

If you know of somewhere else I could get dry, seasoned hardwood for $10/cord, I am all ears.


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## Slamm (Sep 21, 2011)

PB said:


> No #### Sherlock.
> 
> If you know of somewhere else I could get dry, seasoned hardwood for $10/cord, I am all ears.


 
Well I see you took that well, LOL.


Sam


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## AT sawyer (Sep 21, 2011)

If you're using an elevated block to get your rope high and keep the forward end of the log off the ground during the drag, you'll need to factor in the extra rope length up to the block and down to your truck when you purchase that line. I assume you're bringing a ladder to set your high block (see posts on ladders in trees). Make sure your block's sheave fits 5/8.


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## Wilson_tree (Sep 21, 2011)

I have pulled lots of logs with the same type of rope you are looking at. Splicing an eye in is the best way to go, or just tie a figure 8 and clip a carabiner to it. Use nylon webbing as your choker and you can choke the log and clip it to your rope with the biner. This set up is lightweight, but the nylon webbing does wear fast, so have a couple spare chokers. It's still cheaper than chain and easier than a splice. If you can't set a block high in a tree, or you repositioning for every pull, try and set up some type of skid cone on the front of the log. I use this:

DR® Power Equipment - Skid Cone

and it works well. It doubles what my horse can pull and keeps the front of the log from catching and jerking the whole system. Make something cheap with heavy plastic or an old barrel. This technique works fine and you will be able to pull the logs you describe very effectively.


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## BeeVee (Sep 21, 2011)

Been using used nylon rope for 40 years to skid tree length firewood out of the bush . Just used a few simple knots, timber hitch, half hitches on the log and a bowline or double bowline on the half-ton ...sometimes used a snatch block if I had a long pull but a short runway(so to speak)I could use the snatch block in different ways ... to get a different direction of pull...to get a faster pull by trying the rope to the log , passing the rope through the snatch block attached to the truck and from there run the rope to a solid anchoring point i.e. another standing tree (the pulled log will move twice as fast as the truck) .The last hook up that I use the snatch block for is to tie the end of the rope to an anchoring point then through the snatch block that is tied to the log you wish to pull out thence back to the truck....now you get a very slow movement of the log but double the pulling power .
I never put a chain or a cable on the log end of the rope(or any part of the rope). That nylon rope had a tremendous stretching ability and would act like a slingshot to any thing that it was tied to ....better than cable or chain .(I make sure that I use stronger newer rope to tie the snatch block to anything and a very high quality snatch block that can't break)
We got the used rope from the paper mill in town...the rope was 7\16 of an inch with a breaking strength of 3000lbs .The used rope was in 150 to 200 foot lengths .
Although I knew how to splice and eye splice it was simpler to just use a couple of common knots(as above)...sometimes using a smooth strong hardwood stick embedded into the knots....knock the stick out the knot was loose...


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## 2muchgrass (Sep 23, 2011)

*Kind of like this?*

I started a thread asking about the very same thing. Here's what I had in mind.View attachment 200287
Please forgive the graphics. I did it with Microsoft Paint.
Bear in mind I'm not pulling virgin growth oak trees 5' in diameter. Just 4' or 8' lengths of 30" maximum diameter. If it is real big maybe just individual rounds. Maybe attach the away end to a tree with a choker and as the skyline(I guess that's what the pros call it) is a fixed length with a hook on each end, the home end I could attach to the receiver hitch on my truck if there wasn't a convenient tree.
The pull line would pass around the bottom pulley and theoretically, as the log encountered resistance, the end of the log would rise as tension from the winch increased. 
The log pulling cone is a great idea. I just need to figure out how to make one. A modified heavy duty garbage can maybe.
Then there is just pulling it along the ground like someone mentioned. I'm going to think about that one. That might be a whole lot simpler than my plan.
Anybody have any idea on cable sizes? I thought 3/16" or 1/4" would be plenty for the skyline and 1/8" or a little larger for the drag line. I want to keep it as small as possible because I'm thinking of using a good quality boat winch and you can only get so much cable on one of those.


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## Sport Faller (Sep 23, 2011)

I look at it like this, if you're getting this stuff for 10 bones a cord then a 100' length of 3/8 cable with a bell and nubbin on one end and a loop on the other has already paid for itself after 1 cord, then you can pull as much as you want within reason and you don't have to worry about it frazzling itself apart from rubbing the ground in a couple spots


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## 056 kid (Sep 23, 2011)

10 dollars won't buy very much 3/8'' cable.


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## Sport Faller (Sep 23, 2011)

056 kid said:


> 10 dollars won't buy very much 3/8'' cable.


 
I'm saying the 10 bones a cord he's paying the timber company vs. straight up buying the wood (prolly 180.00 a cord min.) or dealing with a ####load of hassles related to ropes and friction


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## 2muchgrass (Sep 23, 2011)

bigskyjake said:


> I'm saying the 10 bones a cord he's paying the timber company vs. straight up buying the wood (prolly 180.00 a cord min.) or dealing with a ####load of hassles related to ropes and friction



Cable is no where near as expensive as I thought it would be. 
http://www.e-rigging.com/store_products.cfm?Subcat_ID=193&Cat_ID=70&Menu_Choice=Catalog
I believe I'm going to order some and try this out seeings as how it isn't going to bankrupt me like I thought it would.
I can get a 500' spool of 1/4" Galv. wire rope with 7000 lb breaking strength for $103.60 plus shipping. I guess the shipping is what is going to kill me.
250 feet for $52.55.


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## Sport Faller (Sep 23, 2011)

2muchgrass said:


> Cable is no where near as expensive as I thought it would be.
> http://www.e-rigging.com/store_products.cfm?Subcat_ID=193&Cat_ID=70&Menu_Choice=Catalog
> I believe I'm going to order some and try this out seeings as how it isn't going to bankrupt me like I thought it would.
> I can get a 500' spool of 1/4" Galv. wire rope with 7000 lb breaking strength for $103.60 plus shipping. I guess the shipping is what is going to kill me.
> 250 feet for $52.55.


 
1/4 is just going to break your heart, it's weak as hell, 1 good bump and it's going to turn into a missle, you'd be far better off going to your local rigging supply and getting a 100' length of import (make sure you say that, it's not rated for as much weight but it's just as good) cable with either 2 loops or 1 loop and a bell/nubbin


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## RenaisSAWnceMan (Sep 23, 2011)

2muchgrass said:


> Cable is no where near as expensive as I thought it would be.
> Erigging - Catalog
> I believe I'm going to order some and try this out seeings as how it isn't going to bankrupt me like I thought it would.
> I can get a 500' spool of 1/4" Galv. wire rope with 7000 lb breaking strength for $103.60 plus shipping. I guess the shipping is what is going to kill me.
> 250 feet for $52.55.


 
GET the 250' spool of 3/8" for 91 bucks....makes sense, no...?? Yes....???


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## Sport Faller (Sep 23, 2011)

RenaisSAWnceMan said:


> GET the 250' spool of 3/8" for 91 bucks....makes sense, no...?? Yes....???


 
sorry, not no, and not yes....... the correct answer is #### yes


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## BeeVee (Sep 23, 2011)

Quite a while back I had a chance at more than ten cords of fire killed Jack Pine...( dead standing) that was more than 200 feet from the traveled portion of the slash . I figured if I fell the wood towards the road and limbed it then I could pull the tree length log out to the road by using a snatch block to get 90 degree pull on the log.
Problem was there wasn't anything to attach the block to, plus the pulling path was a mine field of stumps left by the cutters .
Next time that I was out there I brought along my 8 inch post hole auger and dug a hole about 4 feet deep in the sandy soil on the far side of the road from the trees . I then put an 8 inch (partly peeled) strong dry 20 foot pole in the hole . I had fastened a strong pulley (with rope)to the top before standing up the Gin Pole and my snatch block to the bottom of the pole near ground level .
Now after cutting enough trees for a 1/2ton truck load of 8 footers (about ten trees) I could pull them out over all the stumps and lay them across the road for easy bucking.
I used to take down my rope and top pulley everytime that I went home ...but I forget how I did that without climbing the pole or using a ladder......I musta had a rope loop tied to the top of the pole and used that to raise and lower another rope tied to the pulley containing the pulling rope(was more than 20 years ago)
Got more than ten cords from that bunch


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## hammerlogging (Sep 23, 2011)

2muchgrass said:


> I can get a 500' spool of 1/4" Galv. wire rope with 7000 lb breaking strength for $103.60 plus shipping.



That'll make a bunch of great keychains.


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## 056 kid (Sep 23, 2011)

bigskyjake said:


> I'm saying the 10 bones a cord he's paying the timber company vs. straight up buying the wood (prolly 180.00 a cord min.) or dealing with a ####load of hassles related to ropes and friction


 gotcha



RenaisSAWnceMan said:


> GET the 250' spool of 3/8" for 91 bucks....makes sense, no...?? Yes....???


 
100 feet of 9/16 swaged cable will run you around 250.00 on average. you might be supprised how crappy your 3/8 econo cable is for pulling logs. . .


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## PB (Sep 24, 2011)

bigskyjake said:


> I look at it like this, if you're getting this stuff for 10 bones a cord then a 100' length of 3/8 cable with a bell and nubbin on one end and a loop on the other has already paid for itself after 1 cord, then you can pull as much as you want within reason and you don't have to worry about it frazzling itself apart from rubbing the ground in a couple spots


 
I look at it like this, if I am trying to SAVE money, why would I shell out money for an entire cord of wood for something that may see limited use over its lifetime? I see what you are saying and tend to agree with you, but if I am going to shell out $200+ for cable I might as well call and have a cord of wood delivered to my door. If i wasn't trying to save money on heating my house I would just buy the wood, but that defeats the purpose of having a wood stove in my opinion. I am not doing this on a commercial scale, all I asked was if the rope would work for my purpose not what would be best in the ideal situation. I know cable or chain is best, but we don't live in a perfect world where money falls from strippers g-strings.


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## PB (Sep 24, 2011)

RenaisSAWnceMan said:


> GET the 250' spool of 3/8" for 91 bucks....makes sense, no...?? Yes....???


 
+$70 for shipping and I can have almost a cord of wood.


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## PB (Sep 24, 2011)

2muchgrass said:


> Cable is no where near as expensive as I thought it would be.
> Erigging - Catalog
> I believe I'm going to order some and try this out seeings as how it isn't going to bankrupt me like I thought it would.
> I can get a 500' spool of 1/4" Galv. wire rope with 7000 lb breaking strength for $103.60 plus shipping. I guess the shipping is what is going to kill me.
> 250 feet for $52.55.


 

Or spend $9.99 for 100' of rope with greater breaking strength. Tell me the _*economical*_ benefits of cable in this situation again?

ROPE SUPERPRO.63 5/8 BLUE CO-POLYMER 100' HANK *LQ* 733528


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## imagineero (Sep 24, 2011)

just buck that stuff up and carry it out on your shoulder. 10", 100'? And you're only taking out 1 cord? You could nearly throw it that far if you tried hard enough  You could have had it all bucked up and loaded in the time it took for this thread to eventuate, forget about the time to drive to your store, buy the rope, unravel and untwist it, splice it, run it, break it, resplice it etc etc...


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## PB (Sep 24, 2011)

imagineero said:


> just buck that stuff up and carry it out on your shoulder. 10", 100'? And you're only taking out 1 cord? You could nearly throw it that far if you tried hard enough  You could have had it all bucked up and loaded in the time it took for this thread to eventuate, forget about the time to drive to your store, buy the rope, unravel and untwist it, splice it, run it, break it, resplice it etc etc...


 
It's not the carrying that I am most concerned about, we did it last weekend. I want to use the rope to pull the logs out/off the pile so I can safely cut them on the ground. We are trying to save money with a little more sweat equity, but a trip to the hospital is not cheap. Standing on those piles with a running chainsaw is not an ideal situation. I would rather have it on the ground where I know something isn't going to break, give way or roll under my foot. If I can pull a log off of a pile and at the same time get it closer to the road I will, but I don't anticipate doing it every time I cut a tree. 

Just for reference, seasoned cords of wood are going for $225 to $250 up here and that is if you can find it. Green is a lot cheaper but that won't do us any good this year. We bought the house in July and decided 2 weeks ago to have a wood stove installed. Next year is won't be an issue because we will have all year to plan. We are getting more than one cord from the timber company, more like 5-6 to make sure we have enough for the winter. Our goal is to have the stove installed, cut the firewood and heat our home for what we would pay in oil. At the current rate we would spend about $2800 on oil for the winter, but we will have about that much tied up into have a wood stove installed and 5 cords of firewood. So we are going to break even this year but the savings next year will be really nice, and even more the following winter. If we bought the firewood the return on investment isn't so great.


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## flushcut (Sep 24, 2011)

PB said:


> Thanks guys, I will pick up some this weekend and give it a go. Any place to get a tutorial on splicing? I have never spliced rope but would like to learn.


 
Youtube has some good ones just practice on some junk rope first.


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## avason (Sep 24, 2011)

Can you take some pics of your set-up when you finally get around to it. Sounds interesting and would like to see how you do it.


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## Sport Faller (Sep 24, 2011)

PB said:


> I look at it like this, if I am trying to SAVE money, why would I shell out money for an entire cord of wood for something that may see limited use over its lifetime? I see what you are saying and tend to agree with you, but if I am going to shell out $200+ for cable I might as well call and have a cord of wood delivered to my door. If i wasn't trying to save money on heating my house I would just buy the wood, but that defeats the purpose of having a wood stove in my opinion. I am not doing this on a commercial scale, all I asked was if the rope would work for my purpose not what would be best in the ideal situation. I know cable or chain is best, but we don't live in a perfect world where money falls from strippers g-strings.


That 200 bones was for a 250' roll which you do not need, I had some 100'ers made up this year and I think I paid around 80.00 for each one

BUT, I realize you already got a bunch tied up in this new stove, so hopefully it's best case scenario and the rope works good for ya and you can snag out your winter's heat pretty cheap


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## PB (Sep 24, 2011)

flushcut said:


> Youtube has some good ones just practice on some junk rope first.


 
I watched a bunch, and think I got it on the 3rd try. I am rather impressed with myself.


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## PB (Sep 24, 2011)

bigskyjake said:


> That 200 bones was for a 250' roll which you do not need, I had some 100'ers made up this year and I think I paid around 80.00 for each one
> 
> BUT, I realize you already got a bunch tied up in this new stove, so hopefully it's best case scenario and the rope works good for ya and you can snag out your winter's heat pretty cheap


 
Thanks, are goal is a $0 oil bill. The $200 that i was talking about was for cable made locally, only 100' from the local skidder shop. It was either 3/8" or 5/16", can't remember but it was more than I wanted to spend.


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## PB (Sep 24, 2011)

avason said:


> Can you take some pics of your set-up when you finally get around to it. Sounds interesting and would like to see how you do it.


 
I will try to remember, but no promises.


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## avason (Sep 24, 2011)

Thanx man


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## PB (Sep 25, 2011)

Sorry guys, no pics but the rope did work fine for pulling the logs. It didn't work, however, at preventing injuries. I think I broke my foot but we will see what the ER doc says in a little bit. I guess you can only plan for the worst and hope for the best, but the planning didn't pay off this time. I was loading a 20" round of birch into my truck and caught my foot on the brush underneath and felt a snap. Oh well, live and learn! 

Stay safe!


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## Gologit (Sep 25, 2011)

PB said:


> Sorry guys, no pics but the rope did work fine for pulling the logs. It didn't work, however, at preventing injuries. I think I broke my foot but we will see what the ER doc says in a little bit. I guess you can only plan for the worst and hope for the best, but the planning didn't pay off this time. I was loading a 20" round of birch into my truck and caught my foot on the brush underneath and felt a snap. Oh well, live and learn!
> 
> Stay safe!





Hmmmph! I told you to get some boots. Those second hand penny-loafers that you've been buying at the thrift store just don't make it. Good thing your day job involves a lot of sitting.


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## Metals406 (Sep 25, 2011)

Lee, find an oil rig/yard and befriend the "Tool Pusher" (or Yard manager). OSHA requires them to swap cable about every 5 minutes, and they toss it, and it's usually in great shape.

3/8" is a minimum IMO for pulling logs, and galvy cable is junk for loggin' work. The oil rigs use good carbon steel cable, and I bet you could even score some 1/2".

The best setup would be 100' sections, with an eye on one side and a T-Bar on the other. Take some beer money and have a couple 1/2" X 12' ring-chokers made up (or order them from Bailey's).

That setup will pull wood for you for a long time if you're not hard on the stuff, and you pull smart.

Good luck with that ankle mang.


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## Sport Faller (Sep 25, 2011)

Metals406 said:


> Lee, find an oil rig/yard and befriend the "Tool Pusher" (or Yard manager). OSHA requires them to swap cable about every 5 minutes, and they toss it, and it's usually in great shape.
> 
> *3/8" is a minimum IMO for pulling logs*, and galvy cable is junk for loggin' work. The oil rigs use good carbon steel cable, and I bet you could even score some 1/2".
> 
> ...


 
Yup, we had a couple sections of Boyd's crappy (but it was free) 5/16 cable we were using today, it broke twice, that #### was like a damn Boomslang whippin around. You can bet that this fat kid was behind a good sized tree or 3 when they put a good strain on it


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## Metals406 (Sep 25, 2011)

bigskyjake said:


> Yup, we had a couple sections of Boyd's crappy (but it was free) 5/16 cable we were using today, it broke twice, that #### was like a damn Boomslang whippin around. You can bet that this fat kid was behind a good sized tree or 3 when they put a good strain on it


 
Yeah, don't ever be in the bite, it'll cut you in half.

Putting an old towel (or sweatshirt) on lines actually does work good to keep the beast leashed (somewhat) if it breaks.


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## Sport Faller (Sep 25, 2011)

Metals406 said:


> Yeah, don't ever be in the bite, it'll cut you in half.
> 
> Putting an old towel (or sweatshirt) on lines actually does work good to keep the beast leashed (somewhat) if it breaks.



O hell Yeah it will, I've read lots of stories about the oldtimers when somebody got caught in the bight when the Donkey engine spooled up, anything that got hit was comin off

If I had a towel I woulda used to mop up my sweat and I'm pretty damn certain nobody wants to see me without a shirt on :jester:


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## Metals406 (Sep 25, 2011)

bigskyjake said:


> O hell Yeah it will, I've read lots of stories about the oldtimers when somebody got caught in the bight when the Donkey engine spooled up, anything that got hit was comin off
> 
> If I had a towel I woulda used to mop up my sweat and I'm pretty damn certain nobody wants to see me without a shirt on  :jester:


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## avason (Sep 26, 2011)

PB said:


> Sorry guys, no pics but the rope did work fine for pulling the logs. It didn't work, however, at preventing injuries. I think I broke my foot but we will see what the ER doc says in a little bit. I guess you can only plan for the worst and hope for the best, but the planning didn't pay off this time. I was loading a 20" round of birch into my truck and caught my foot on the brush underneath and felt a snap. Oh well, live and learn!
> 
> Stay safe!


 
Dang! Sorry to hear that. Hopefully your not out of commission for to long. No pics of the set-up? How about some of your busted up ankle? Just kidding...get well.


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## flushcut (Sep 26, 2011)

PB said:


> Sorry guys, no pics but the rope did work fine for pulling the logs. It didn't work, however, at preventing injuries. I think I broke my foot but we will see what the ER doc says in a little bit. I guess you can only plan for the worst and hope for the best, but the planning didn't pay off this time. I was loading a 20" round of birch into my truck and caught my foot on the brush underneath and felt a snap. Oh well, live and learn!
> 
> Stay safe!


 
I am glad it worked for you, but sorry about you foot, man that sucks hopefully it is just a sprain.


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## Wilson_tree (Sep 26, 2011)

And it just goes to show ya; you worry about the rope, and the chokers, and stumps, and the dirt. And then what gets you is the walking.


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## brucew44guns (Sep 27, 2011)

*pulling out firewood*



056 kid said:


> 10 dollars won't buy very much 3/8'' cable.


 
I think he refers to the value of the cord when it's stacked at home. If it's a 1oo bucks of wood, then the 90 difference bought some wire rope. I guess I would vote for the cable , and I don't even know what the stuff sells for these days.


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## PB (Sep 27, 2011)

Wilson_tree said:


> And it just goes to show ya; you worry about the rope, and the chokers, and stumps, and the dirt. And then what gets you is the walking.


 
Yeah, go figure. Oh well. At least it isn't broken, but I can't put any weight on it. Guess I messed up a tendon pretty good so it feels like I have a noodle foot. Still going out this weekend for more wood. Guess I will watch where I am walking.


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## PB (Sep 27, 2011)

Gologit said:


> Hmmmph! I told you to get some boots. Those second hand penny-loafers that you've been buying at the thrift store just don't make it. Good thing your day job involves a lot of sitting.


 
But those ugly boots don't look very good when I where my firewood outfit. They just don't go with my skinny jeans and scarf. 


I was wearing my Danner Rainforest's and I think they are the only reason it was a bad sprain instead of breaking a bone. I tell you what, my foot was so swollen that I could barely get my boot off.


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## ShaneLogs (Sep 27, 2011)

Choker cable works good also! thats what i use with my four wheeler to haul logs out of the woods.


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## 056 kid (Sep 27, 2011)

PB said:


> But those ugly boots don't look very good when I where my firewood outfit. They just don't go with my skinny jeans and scarf.
> 
> 
> I was wearing my Danner Rainforest's and I think they are the only reason it was a bad sprain instead of breaking a bone. I tell you what, my foot was so swollen that I could barely get my boot off.


 
Aww, a rolled ankle? Small taters. . you have to work that off. Best way I know how to get the swelling to go away and I have a terrible left ankle.


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## Gologit (Sep 27, 2011)

PB said:


> But those ugly boots don't look very good when I where my firewood outfit. They just don't go with my skinny jeans and scarf.
> 
> 
> I was wearing my Danner Rainforest's and I think they are the only reason it was a bad sprain instead of breaking a bone. I tell you what, my foot was so swollen that I could barely get my boot off.




:msp_biggrin: Okay, you're off the hook. I just wanted to make sure that you weren't wearing an outfit like Cedarkerf uses for his avatar.

And...getting your boots off after an ankle sprain? That can be a major problem. I watched a guy pour cooking oil down one boot after his ankle had swollen far enough to be a problem. It worked. Messy, though.

Make your gimpy ankle _work_ for you...as in "but honey, I can't take the garbage out, mow the lawn, paint the spare bedroom, or go visit your mother who hates me anyway...my ankle is really bothering me today". Limp a little. Don't forget to limp on the correct foot.

Hope you heal up quick. And quit being such a klutz.


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## PB (Dec 15, 2011)

Hey guys, thought I would give you an update. The rope worked great. It was a matter of getting traction to my truck to pull logs out, not the breaking strength of the rope. I pulled more wood than I was anticipating and the rope held up great. I wouldn't use it with a tractor but with the pickup it was great. I had the wife hooking up logs while I was cutting and she couldn't have done that with wire rope. There were very few places that I could put a snatch block so most of the time I was pulling with the rope on the ground. That 5/8" rope is VERY abrasion resistant. 

For those of you looking for a cheaper alternative to steel cable I would look into this rope. Again, I wouldn't be hooking it to a skidder/tractor but for my truck it was great. I never had the feeling that it was about to break and I put the throttle to it a couple of times.


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