# whats the best silky handsaw for my job???



## leadcutter (Jun 9, 2011)

hi im wondering whats the best silky hand saw for in-the-tree limb cutting and topping. ive narrowed it down to either the *zubat, ibuki*, or the *kamisorime*

any thoughts/suggestions?

thanks


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## RacerX (Jun 9, 2011)

Can you give us some reasons why you've chosen those three models?


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## leadcutter (Jun 9, 2011)

Because they all seem popular and aren't attached to a pole...haha and I want something with a long blade for large diameter branches/topping. I have ruled out the folding models because they don't seem agressive enough or big enough


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## oscar4883 (Jun 9, 2011)

I have a Sugoi and it is a great saw, however, the combination of being short and dealing with a lot a broad trees, makes it cumbersome sometimes when it is on the hip. Zubat is nice as well and is slightly less cumbersome.


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## leadcutter (Jun 9, 2011)

have you ever topped a tree with your sugoi? because of its curved blade, im thinking it would be difficult to get a clean and straight notch...true?


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## flushcut (Jun 9, 2011)

Ibuki for wrecking and Zubat for pruning the two handed deal is not worth it IMO.


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## bomar (Jun 9, 2011)

how big of a top are you trying to cut with a handsaw


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## Jeffsaw (Jun 9, 2011)

I've only used a zubat but it sure is great! I don't top with it, just use it for pruning and branches that are in the way when doing a removal. Other tree guys swear by the Silky brand and now I know why.


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## RacerX (Jun 10, 2011)

I use a Sugoi but I don't think that I have ever used it to cut a notch used to top a tree. Usually the Stihl takes care of that. I really like that saw, it's the first for this type that I've owed. Prior to that it was those curved blade wooden handled arborist's saws. The Sugoi is a vast improvement in sharpness. I'm sure just about any Silky saw will be great.


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## climberjones (Jun 10, 2011)

Luv my zubat!!


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## imagineero (Jun 10, 2011)

I have both the sugoi and the zubat. You are right about the curved blades being unsuitable for notching, both have curved blades by the way. For this reason, most climbing courses force you to use a straight blade like the gomtaro which has the same handle and scabbard style as the zubat but a straight blade. 

The zubat and sugoi are pretty similar in length, but quite different in power. The sugoi is much more aggressive and faster. I've used both to take every branch and the top out of some pretty tall trees (40'+) when working on sundays and starting early and couldn't make noise. You can do it, but it is way slower than using a 200t. Also it would be nice to be able to make a notch if the handsaw is your only saw. 

Shaun


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## chad556 (Jun 10, 2011)

The Silky Natanoko is a straight blade saw similar in size to the zubat with the handle similar to the sugoi. It comes in large teeth I think. I was thinking about one but i opted for the zubat for the curved blade and more agressive cutting. I just don't make notches with anything other than a 200T but i think a straight edged saw would definitely be beneficial for that (I am actually thinking about getting a silky gunfighter as a secondary pruning saw). Straight blade saws are more ideal for pruning in close quarters because they have less of a tendency to nick nearby branches accidentally.


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## leadcutter (Jun 17, 2011)

Thanks everyone for their input! My silky ibuki is in the mail! I picked this one because it sounds like it rips wood apart. For those who were wondering, I'm going 2 be topping and removing my nighbors 100' firs this weekend so the diameter at the top is aout 8 inches. I know its going to be a grind with a hand saw but these three trees will be the first I've ever removed with climbing gear (also in the mail) and I know ill be more comfortable at 100' with a hand saw rather than a chainsaw! I'm going to hoist up my chainsaw after topping these monsters and put the hand saw away. This brings up another question I have: WHEN BLOCKING DOWN, SHOULD I DROP 10 FOOT SECTIONS (to get out of the tree faster) OR DROP REGUALR "ROUND" SIZED PIECES??? Please take into consideration my limited expirience with spur climbing...thanks!


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## imagineero (Jun 17, 2011)

holy crap....
I dont know which is going to be more damaging... the harm to yourself from attemtping such a feat, or the harm to your self esteem from the beating you'll take from AS members. Good luck....

Shaun


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## Jeffsaw (Jun 17, 2011)

Leadcutter, I hope you are kidding. If you are not, then don't start on trees of that size.


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## mic687 (Jun 17, 2011)

flushcut said:


> Ibuki for wrecking and Zubat for pruning the two handed deal is not worth it IMO.


 
I agree 100% Ibuki is a beast for wrecking but the blade is a bit long for fine work. I use my Ibuki back side of the blade for busting off small dead limbs it is a tough saw that when sharp will zip through 4" limbs.


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## mic687 (Jun 17, 2011)

leadcutter said:


> Thanks everyone for their input! My silky ibuki is in the mail! I picked this one because it sounds like it rips wood apart. For those who were wondering, I'm going 2 be topping and removing my nighbors 100' firs this weekend so the diameter at the top is aout 8 inches. I know its going to be a grind with a hand saw but these three trees will be the first I've ever removed with climbing gear (also in the mail) and I know ill be more comfortable at 100' with a hand saw rather than a chainsaw! I'm going to hoist up my chainsaw after topping these monsters and put the hand saw away. This brings up another question I have: WHEN BLOCKING DOWN, SHOULD I DROP 10 FOOT SECTIONS (to get out of the tree faster) OR DROP REGUALR "ROUND" SIZED PIECES??? Please take into consideration my limited expirience with spur climbing...thanks!


 
Brother you bit off a big chunck to start with. A grind? yeah all that and a bag of chips. Man be careful slow slow slow is the way to go. Never climbed on spurs ? well the spurs are easy the flip line is going to kick your butt learning to adjust it on the fly. Be careful comming down on spurs its much more dangerous than going up, much more likley to spur out on the way down. First time blocking down smaller is better, less weight if you screw up. Good luck man be safe.


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## leadcutter (Jun 18, 2011)

I've climbed with my buddy's spurs many of times...I've been about 60 ft up and had a running bowline choker around the tree. I'm going to be using my figure 8 with ears hardlocked out on my climbing rope that will be around the tree (running bowling) and ill step up, advance my flipline, and advance the bowline. (Deadly fall potential of nearly 0) And I'm fully aware of all the saftey freaks on here that are about to post to this thread about how dumb I am...bring it  if I get uncomfortable in the tree ill come down and call up the pros...and give them my $1200 worth of gear cuz ill never be using it again. Thanks for the good luck wishes!! Ill be safe!!!


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## tree md (Jun 19, 2011)

I agree, those are too large of trees to be starting out on. I wouldn't send a new guy up a tree that size even with a handsaw and under supervision.

That being said, you have your work cut out for you. I would not even think about attempting to limb and top a tree that size with a handsaw... Just too much work. But hey, if that's what you want to do then by all means, go to town...

On the chunks: You will be dropping chunks, not blocking which is a term that means using an arborist block to lower chunks. I think you will find that it is going to be pretty difficult to push ten foot chunks over unless there is a pretty good lean on the trees. I usually keep it to around 4'-6' pieces once I get into decent sized wood. One option is to tie a rope towards the top of the piece and have someone pull it over if you want to take larger pieces. You can also notch the piece. I prefer to just take smaller pieces and use a snap cut but that's just me.


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## climberjones (Jun 19, 2011)

Ive never been in a tree over 20 FT that had a 0 percent deadly fall rating so be careful and good luck!


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## leadcutter (Jun 20, 2011)

tree md said:


> I agree, those are too large of trees to be starting out on. I wouldn't send a new guy up a tree that size even with a handsaw and under supervision.
> 
> That being said, you have your work cut out for you. I would not even think about attempting to limb and top a tree that size with a handsaw... Just too much work. But hey, if that's what you want to do then by all means, go to town...
> 
> On the chunks: You will be dropping chunks, not blocking which is a term that means using an arborist block to lower chunks. I think you will find that it is going to be pretty difficult to push ten foot chunks over unless there is a pretty good lean on the trees. I usually keep it to around 4'-6' pieces once I get into decent sized wood. One option is to tie a rope towards the top of the piece and have someone pull it over if you want to take larger pieces. You can also notch the piece. I prefer to just take smaller pieces and use a snap cut but that's just me.


 
Sorry i didnt mention it before, i will have a rope to the top of the tree and ill have some one pull over the 10 foot section when i finish the cut...thanks for the support. Is it better to climb on the underside of a leaning tree or the top side?


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## husabud (Jul 11, 2011)

I'm guessing he's dead.:dunno:

I wonder who's selling his gear. Sometimes you have to wonder about those among us.


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## imagineero (Jul 12, 2011)

nah,
He just hasn't got back from cutting those trees down with a handsaw. I imagine he'll be done sometime around mid summer. 

Shaun


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## flushcut (Jul 12, 2011)

You guys are just mean He probably called somebody to finish. Or his hands a still stuck to the silky and cant type.


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## aiden1 (Jul 15, 2011)

i find the zubat great, nice fast cutting


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## thomaswbdswim (Aug 19, 2011)

*Samuri saws*

wespur sells a great brand of saw the samuri it is designed like a silky but 20 to 30 less $$$ i have the 15 in heavy duty model with leg scabbard and it is unbelieveably sharp i have used it as a machete when i needed to geet to the base of a tree that was surrounded in 6 foot weeds


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## Bermie (Aug 21, 2011)

Yeah wonder what happened?

FWIW, I am hooked on the Zubat, and I cut notches with it all the time, no problem.
Its a good fit for fine pruning and a bit of chop and drop...


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## Kottonwood (Sep 21, 2011)

I am wondering if this guy really attempted to climb and top two one hundred foot firs with a handsaw. if I was gonna to that, I would bring this badboy.

Silky GENKI Temagari 500mm ( XL Teeth )


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## flushcut (Sep 21, 2011)

PatriotTreeCO said:


> I am wondering if this guy really attempted to climb and top two one hundred foot firs with a handsaw. if I was gonna to that, I would bring this badboy.
> 
> Silky GENKI Temagari 500mm ( XL Teeth )


 
Damn you now I want one for the "just because" factor. I would think that thing would just glide it's way through the wood.


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## Kottonwood (Sep 21, 2011)

I had just seen it in a recent sherrill catalog... made me think of this thread. It is advertised as a "green chainsaw".


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## deevo (Sep 22, 2011)

leadcutter said:


> Thanks everyone for their input! My silky ibuki is in the mail! I picked this one because it sounds like it rips wood apart. For those who were wondering, I'm going 2 be topping and removing my nighbors 100' firs this weekend so the diameter at the top is aout 8 inches. I know its going to be a grind with a hand saw but these three trees will be the first I've ever removed with climbing gear (also in the mail) and I know ill be more comfortable at 100' with a hand saw rather than a chainsaw! I'm going to hoist up my chainsaw after topping these monsters and put the hand saw away. This brings up another question I have: WHEN BLOCKING DOWN, SHOULD I DROP 10 FOOT SECTIONS (to get out of the tree faster) OR DROP REGUALR "ROUND" SIZED PIECES??? Please take into consideration my limited expirience with spur climbing...thanks!


 
Take lots of pictures! Want to see this, 100' is a good beginners tree! Just take 25' sections you'll be good! Do you have a good bow saw as well? Heard they are good for topping


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## leadcutter (May 29, 2014)

To all of those that gave me advice and thought I died 3 years ago; I did not!!! I was able to remove my neighbors trees and since then have done more than a dozen other jobs with my tree gear and self-taught techniques. I became very popular with family and friends who had trees to remove but didn't want to pay professional prices. I've being adding to my gear collection over the years and love doing arborist work! I've hired on several friends to help me with the big jobs and have become rather efficient in removing trees despite my lack of proper "professional training" My silky has been put through hell and its about time I get a new one. However I am now considering upgrading to a top handle saw. Either the ms192tce or the husky t435 since they are very affordable and would only be replacing my silky for limbing... but I haven't made a decision yet. Anyways, buying tree gear and becoming a self employed amateur arborist has been a blast and has also helped pay for my college tuition! 

I just came across this old thread I created in 2011 when I was 17 and decided to let all the haters know that I'm healthy and making great money in the tree business. Sorry if I took your job away  Happy cutting


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## BC WetCoast (May 29, 2014)

Two Crackheads and a Pickup Tree Service lived to drive down prices another day. Sigh


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## BuckmasterStumpGrinding (May 30, 2014)

The 192 gets my vote if you are part timing and upgrading from a hand saw. The 192 is a little lighter and better balance. It has less power but it will have enough power to get started. 
 
When you need to squeeze a few extra trees in a day upgrade to the 201t.


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## clawnz (May 30, 2014)

Get hold of the catalog.
There are many tooth set ups available

As to which is best? A sharp one.
All Silky's are great. Beat the Barnels hands down.

I feel folding are good for ground workers who do a bit of pruning.
I have 2x Gomtaro's that I love. The only think wrong with the older ones was the scabbard. The saws did tend to fall out when climbing around in tight brush.
But Silky havd addressed this and redesigned the scabbard to resolve the issue.


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## leadcutter (May 30, 2014)

BC WetCoast said:


> Two Crackheads and a Pickup Tree Service lived to drive down prices another day. Sigh


if you think I'm a crackhead you are mistaken. Crackheads don't do tree work...and live to tell the internet about it 3 years later. You sound irritated.


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## leadcutter (May 30, 2014)

BuckmasterStumpGrinding said:


> The 192 gets my vote if you are part timing and upgrading from a hand saw. The 192 is a little lighter and better balance. It has less power but it will have enough power to get started.
> 
> When you need to squeeze a few extra trees in a day upgrade to the 201t.



Thanks buckmaster, I'm seriously considering getting the 192t since its just over $300 here. But then the slightly more powerful but a little heavier husky t435 caught my attention. I can't decide on which one to get. I'm leaving towards the 192 tho


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## BC WetCoast (May 30, 2014)

leadcutter said:


> if you think I'm a crackhead you are mistaken. Crackheads don't do tree work...and live to tell the internet about it 3 years later. You sound irritated.



No insurance, no worker comp probably cash jobs so no income tax. Probably don't have a truck or chipper either. You're no different than Jose with his family loading branches into the trunk of a Ford Tempo.

Go work for a professional company where you can learn the proper skills. At some point you're going to come to a situation that turns into a disaster quickly, with a tree going through a roof. Why does this always come to mind.


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## BuckmasterStumpGrinding (May 30, 2014)

leadcutter said:


> Thanks buckmaster, I'm seriously considering getting the 192t since its just over $300 here. But then the slightly more powerful but a little heavier husky t435 caught my attention. I can't decide on which one to get. I'm leaving towards the 192 tho


Big huskys little stihls.


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## leadcutter (Jun 2, 2014)

BC WetCoast said:


> No insurance, no worker comp probably cash jobs so no income tax. Probably don't have a truck or chipper either. You're no different than Jose with his family loading branches into the trunk of a Ford Tempo.
> 
> Go work for a professional company where you can learn the proper skills. At some point you're going to come to a situation that turns into a disaster quickly, with a tree going through a roof. Why does this always come to mind.



Hahaha hilarious video! But nothing like my crew or I! Go ahead and make your assumptions on how we operate but I'll tell you: 1) we have a chipper 2) we don't do jobs where houses or property are close by 3) none of us are named Jose nor own a Ford tempo! (That comment of yours was dumb and inaccurate but funny, And 4) I do this job to make money for tuition so I can graduate college and get a better job in the future. Remember it's never too late to get a college degree, you poor grumpy arborist!


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## BC WetCoast (Jun 2, 2014)

leadcutter said:


> Hahaha hilarious video! But nothing like my crew or I! Go ahead and make your assumptions on how we operate but I'll tell you: 1) we have a chipper 2) we don't do jobs where houses or property are close by 3) none of us are named Jose nor own a Ford tempo! (That comment of yours was dumb and inaccurate but funny, And 4) I do this job to make money for tuition so I can graduate college and get a better job in the future. Remember it's never too late to get a college degree, you poor grumpy arborist!



Well sonny

Tech school diploma
University Degree 
Advanced post graduate diploma only available to professional foresters and engineers.
Enough certifications to fill your ass.
It's gonna take you a few years to catch up. But your right, you never know how that degree in Romantic Latin literature is going to get you a better job in the future. 

If you looked around this site you would find a picture of Jose and his family loading brush onto a trailer and into their Ford Tempo, I don't make this **** up.

Your crew - pay them market wages or beer money at the frat house? Worker's comp? Employment taxes?

As I said, go work for a real company, get proper training and work like a proper arborist.


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