# Converted Log Splitter



## iowa (Dec 22, 2009)

I'm converting a 28ton Swisher with a 10.5hp Briggs over to a verticle splitter with a work table. The attached doc. file is a print of it off of Auto Cad. I've been drawing it up for the last few days and started building the slide and wedge today at work. I hope everything works out ok. I will use the tank, wheels, pump, engine, and tongue. The I beam and wedge will not be used. I plan on using a 1/2" thick steel plate by 2'x4' for the table. And a 4x6 steel tube for the upright. The cylinder is 4.5" x 24" stroke. It has plenty of power. I will have a lift table on the left side actuated by a cable and pulley system. 

The slide is made of 3/4"x3" CRS. I will bolt them together with 3/8-16 bolts and I machined a grease groove on the inside. I'll have grease zerts on the outside of the slides for easy lubrication.

I hope to make it work like these splitters: http://www.superaxe.com.au/whitlands-ws-150.html However, theirs only has an 18" stroke and the cylinder is mounted differently. 
pic


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## iowa (Dec 22, 2009)

Here's a pic of the slide for the column. I'm not done with it. Still need to drill and tap for grease zerks. And will round the inside edges a bit with a radius cutter. The long piece is a piece of O1 tool steel. After it is machined to a sharp edge I will heat treat it and then weld it to a piece of CRS to beef it up. The tool steal is 3/4"x1 1/2". I'll have a 60deg angle on it.


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## rancher2 (Dec 22, 2009)

*converted splitter*

I like your idea. I have my splitter in my shop right know putting a crane off a old tire service truck on it to lift the big pieces up to the splitter and I have been thinking of putting a upright like your building on the back of my splitter with a 3.5 cylinder to do smaller pieces and it would be fast with my 28 gpm pump. Would you be interested in building two of the slide pieces I don't have equipment to make pieces like that.


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## iowa (Dec 22, 2009)

rancher2 said:


> I like your idea. I have my splitter in my shop right know putting a crane off a old tire service truck on it to lift the big pieces up to the splitter and I have been thinking of putting a upright like your building on the back of my splitter with a 3.5 cylinder to do smaller pieces and it would be fast with my 28 gpm pump. Would you be interested in building two of the slide pieces I don't have equipment to make pieces like that.



Maybe. Let me do testing with this first and make sure things work out ok.


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## WidowMaker (Dec 23, 2009)

A different idea, but I don't see any advantage over a horizonal with a lift... To each his own I guess...Good luck with you build...


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## Haywire Haywood (Dec 23, 2009)

I like it, the one in the video makes for a very compact splitter length wise and all the work is right in front of you. I don't like their overdone safety system where it takes both hands to work the hydraulics. We have 10 digits, so if we lose one or two, so be it. 

Ian


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## iowa (Dec 23, 2009)

WidowMaker said:


> A different idea, but I don't see any advantage over a horizonal with a lift... To each his own I guess...Good luck with you build...



With a horizontal I am still bending over the machine. Even if there are log racks on both sides of the splitter. You still have to pick up the other half of the log, which stains the back. I am 6'5" also. So most splitters are too short in the horizontal position. And in the vertical position you sit on a bucket or log and still bending over. 

I just like this design. It's simple and all the work stays on the table.


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## triptester (Dec 23, 2009)

I envy your access to the machines that allow you to do such nice work.

When I tried a similar collar around the column system I had trouble with binding. To solve the problem I had to double the length of the slide. With the WS 150 design the slide may have an even greater tendency to bind because the cylinder will be pushing down on one end while the wedge is resisting in the opposite direction. I was also wandering about the shear strength of the 4 bolts holding the wedge.

I,m looking forward to see the progress on your build because that is the next design I want to try.

Jerry


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## iowa (Dec 23, 2009)

triptester said:


> I envy your access to the machines that allow you to do such nice work.
> 
> When I tried a similar collar around the column system I had trouble with binding. To solve the problem I had to double the length of the slide. With the WS 150 design the slide may have an even greater tendency to bind because the cylinder will be pushing down on one end while the wedge is resisting in the opposite direction. I was also wandering about the shear strength of the 4 bolts holding the wedge.
> 
> ...



How tall was your slide? Mine is 3" tall. I hope that's enough. I only put the bolt holes on there to aid in keeping the slide square. I will weld all 4 corners. I'll be doing the welding at home and don't have access to clamps etc. So a lot of my stuff will be bolted but only to keep it square while welding. 

I have access to a mill, lathe, drill press, surface grinder, band saws, and lots of tools. I am a tool and die maker. Whenever we aren't busy in the shop I'll be working on this project. My new boss is pretty cool and doesn't bother us. I'll keep posting pictures as I make more forward progress.


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## gruff4531 (Dec 23, 2009)

*Same idea*

I currently have a brave 22 ton h/v splitter and have often thought about what you are doing. I first got the idea when I saw the splitters made by Powersplit. http://www.powersplit.com/index.html

My idea was a little different, I though I might be able to use everything pretty much as it was sitting on my splitter, and just change the pivot point and permanently fix the splitter in the vertical position and build a work table around the existing foot. 

I am looking forward to reading the updates on your project because you have the same height problem I do (6'4")


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## iowa (Dec 23, 2009)

gruff4531 said:


> I currently have a brave 22 ton h/v splitter and have often thought about what you are doing. I first got the idea when I saw the splitters made by Powersplit. http://www.powersplit.com/index.html
> 
> My idea was a little different, I though I might be able to use everything pretty much as it was sitting on my splitter, and just change the pivot point and permanently fix the splitter in the vertical position and build a work table around the existing foot.
> 
> I am looking forward to reading the updates on your project because you have the same height problem I do (6'4")



A co-worker and I have been doing a lot of discussing on this matter also. And that is the idea he told me. Just put a pivot point on the corner of the I beam on the bottom and swivel it up so the foot is flush with a table. It's on bad. However my I beam is like 76" long. Add 36" for my table height! That's 9'4" tall when assembled and working. That's tall!!! And a lot of top weight. So that's the reason for doing it this way.


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## triptester (Dec 23, 2009)

My slide was 4" tall x 6" deep. I changed it to 8" tall and it solved the problem.
An exaggerated example would be to stand a 2 foot rod on end then drop a washer over it ,the washer will fall but flutter on the way down. If you take the same rod and slip a short piece of tube over it the tube will slide smoothly to the bottom.


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## iowa (Dec 23, 2009)

triptester said:


> My slide was 4" tall x 6" deep. I changed it to 8" tall and it solved the problem.
> An exaggerated example would be to stand a 2 foot rod on end then drop a washer over it ,the washer will fall but flutter on the way down. If you take the same rod and slip a short piece of tube over it the tube will slide smoothly to the bottom.



Yeah. I understand the concept. I'm hoping my cylinder mount up top will be rigid enough and if I keep everything square I won't have a binding issue. We shall see. If you look at powersplits design they don't have any more than a 3" tall slide. It might be 4". Dunno. Hard to tell from this pic.
http://www.powersplit.com/images/pictures/08.gif


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## triptester (Dec 23, 2009)

gruff4531 said:


> I currently have a brave 22 ton h/v splitter and have often thought about what you are doing. I first got the idea when I saw the splitters made by Powersplit. http://www.powersplit.com/index.html
> 
> My idea was a little different, I though I might be able to use everything pretty much as it was sitting on my splitter, and just change the pivot point and permanently fix the splitter in the vertical position and build a work table around the existing foot.
> 
> I am looking forward to reading the updates on your project because you have the same height problem I do (6'4")



The table design works great but a great deal of care must be taken to handle the change in center of gravity. When in the down position the splitter will be very tongue heavy but in the upright position the splitter can become dangerously top heavy. I have built four with the Powersplit design and balance is critical. Just being out of level can cause problems.


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## triptester (Dec 23, 2009)

With the Powersplit design the wedge is attached rigid to the wedge this helps to keep the guide from binding. With the cylinder and equipment I had to work with my attachment point had play in it.
I also thought you were going to go with the WS150 style which applies forces in different directions.

Jerry


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## iowa (Dec 23, 2009)

triptester said:


> With the Powersplit design the wedge is attached rigid to the wedge this helps to keep the guide from binding. With the cylinder and equipment I had to work with my attachment point had play in it.
> I also thought you were going to go with the WS150 style which applies forces in different directions.
> 
> Jerry



No. Not doing the WS150 style. The cylinder is on backwards. Look at my doc. file in the first post. 

I will be welding 1"x6" CRS to my cylinder outside walls and will machine slots into the upper plates to keep everything rigid. I will pin and bolt that assembly to the column.


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## rancher2 (Dec 23, 2009)

WidowMaker said:


> A different idea, but I don't see any advantage over a horizonal with a lift... To each his own I guess...Good luck with you build...



WidowMaker 
My interest in adding another splitter is to get some speed for smaller wood.We run a 6 inch diam cylinder from a cat which will split any thing but is a little slow even with a 28 GPM pump. We hope adding the lift will be a plus too. In the past we used the tractor and loader to lift the big rounds of wood. Our splitter is on a truck axle so the height is nice for tall people and adding weight to the back for a table and upright splitter is no problem.


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## SWI Don (Dec 23, 2009)

Real curious to see how it works out. If I were to build a second addtional splitter it would be a table style. For smaller wood a table style should be much quicker and more ergonomic. 

Don.


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## iowa (Dec 24, 2009)

Watch this video and then you will know why I want to make one like his. It's no non-sense and makes splitting wood easy. No back breaking lifting. After a log is split the other half doesn't roll over and off the splitter or on a table that you have to reach over the I beam and retrieve. It just sets there upright until you pivot it into place. 

I can't believe any major manufacturers haven't started mass producing them like this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYrMBRFa-wc


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## bowtechmadman (Dec 24, 2009)

That is the most impressive splitter I've seen yet. I agree haywire I think the valve would be better suited right under the table top.


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## WidowMaker (Dec 24, 2009)

iowa said:


> Watch this video and then you will know why I want to make one like his. It's no non-sense and makes splitting wood easy. No back breaking lifting. After a log is split the other half doesn't roll over and off the splitter or on a table that you have to reach over the I beam and retrieve. It just sets there upright until you pivot it into place.
> 
> I can't believe any major manufacturers haven't started mass producing them like this.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYrMBRFa-wc



===

I have watched the video and it may have a very little advantage over a "properly" set up horizonal, if your use it in a wood lot or bring the wood to the splitter.

If you take the splitter to the wood, as we do I certainly wouldn't want to pull that such as top heavy unit at hiway speeds over our mountain hiways to say nothing of the forest sevice roads. I would be on its side in nothing flat...

as far as having to bend over a horizonal unit, if its built propertly that can be avoided, we're not talking off the shelve units here...not knocking your choice, just making observations...


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## Haywire Haywood (Dec 24, 2009)

The advantage I see is that you're never reaching across the beam to get to the table on the far side. It's also more compact than a horizontal splitter, although I do see it not towing as well because of that. I think it may be a better set up to have the table just forward of the axle and turned to the side instead of behind it and facing rear. Easier to chuck the split wood into the truck that way and it would probably tow better too with a little weight more forward.

Ian


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## triptester (Dec 24, 2009)

The table style travels great at interstate hyway speeds. The splitters I have built have over 2000 miles of interstate hyway travel towed by cars and trucks plus thru back roads and woods towed by ATVs. Once the cylinder is lowered there is no problem with stability.

With proper axle placement they can be moved around with one hand.


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## iowa (Dec 29, 2009)

Ok. More progress today at work. I got the wedge done. The wedge backer. And grease zerks installed. Tomorrow I will weld the wedge to the backer, then to the slide. Then I will heat treat the wedge. It is O-1 oil hard tool steel.


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## iowa (Dec 30, 2009)

Ok. Got some more done today. Brought the mig welder in the shop and cranked her up almost as high as it would go and spray welded it. I thought I would have to make several passes on the wedge and on the wedge to the slide. But after seeing I was getting almost 1/4" of penetration I didn't think it was necessary. 
After welding the wedge to the backer I put it in the mill and put a 60deg angle on the backer portion to help pop the wood apart instead of having a sharp corner. All in all I was happy with it. I tacked the crap out of it and nothing moved and everything is square.















Tomorrow I will make the brackets for the log lifter hinge that will be welded to the table. And if I can find some 5/8 or 3/4 x 8" steel I will make my upright pieces that will be welded to the cylinder and pin into the main beam.


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## Haywire Haywood (Dec 31, 2009)

Can you post a pic of the end profile of the assembled wedge? 

thanks,
Ian


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## iowa (Dec 31, 2009)

Some pics of the wedge provile. I also made 2 brackets that will be welded to the left side of the table. They will be the pivot points for the log lifter.


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## Haywire Haywood (Dec 31, 2009)

How about welding something to bridge the gap between the wedge and the backer. It looks to me like that flat area at the base of the wedge might hang instead of following the wedge into the wood. --Ian


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## iowa (Dec 31, 2009)

Haywire Haywood said:


> How about welding something to bridge the gap between the wedge and the backer. It looks to me like that flat area at the base of the wedge might hang instead of following the wedge into the wood. --Ian



I don't think it will hang up. The second angle cut on the back piece is right next to the weld.. It should be ok. If its not I'll either put more welds in or add a piece of steel to both sides.


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## ericjeeper (Dec 31, 2009)

iowa said:


> I don't think it will hang up. The second angle cut on the back piece is right next to the weld.. It should be ok. If its not I'll either put more welds in or add a piece of steel to both sides.



I agree with Ian, The smoother you can make the knife work the less apt it is going to self destruct.No sense in making the machine work any harder against itself then it has to.


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## iowa (Jan 1, 2010)

Been messing around with CAD today and figuring out the log lifter actuated by a cable and pulley system. Kinda fun to make sure the cable doesn't run into or get in the way of anything. Here's what I have so far.


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## Haywire Haywood (Jan 1, 2010)

I like the idea of using the splitter ram to run the log lift via a cable. Six feet of 1/4 cable and a pulley is a lot cheaper than hoses, cylinder and a control valve. Just need a strong D ring to attach and detach from the ram as needed. 

Ian


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## iowa (Jan 1, 2010)

Haywire Haywood said:


> I like the idea of using the splitter ram to run the log lift via a cable. Six feet of 1/4 cable and a pulley is a lot cheaper than hoses, cylinder and a control valve. Just need a strong D ring to attach and detach from the ram as needed.
> 
> Ian



If you look at the pic of my bracket for the hinges on the log lifter. You will see that it has a back piece. Inside the bracket is a "stop". I will be putting a flipper deal on the lifter table that will go inside this bracket and catch. That way the lifter won't go up and down every stroke and I won't have to detach the lifter all the time. The cable will just go slack on the upstroke. The lift will move a little bit on the down stroke, but not much.


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## triptester (Jan 1, 2010)

On the log lift cable on my splitter I added a short section of chain. This allows for minor adjustment and adds some ballast to the lift end of the cable because without weight the cable wants straighten but not always in the right direction.
On the Aussie splitter they clamp on a weight to the cable.


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## iowa (Jan 1, 2010)

triptester said:


> On the log lift cable on my splitter I added a short section of chain. This allows for minor adjustment and adds some ballast to the lift end of the cable because without weight the cable wants straighten but not always in the right direction.
> On the Aussie splitter they clamp on a weight to the cable.



Yup. I will machine out 2 pieces of metal with a half a radius in each block. Drill a hole through it for a bolt and clamp it wherever I want it so it will sag down and not spring everywhere.


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## Haywire Haywood (Jan 1, 2010)

The only thing that might be a drawback to this is the cycle time of the cylinder. A dedicated 2" cylinder for the lift would be a lot faster unless you used some pulleys to multiply line speed.

Ian


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## iowa (Jan 1, 2010)

Haywire Haywood said:


> The only thing that might be a drawback to this is the cycle time of the cylinder. A dedicated 2" cylinder for the lift would be a lot faster unless you used some pulleys to multiply line speed.
> Ian



Cycle time will be less than 7 seconds. I don't have to stroke the cylinder all the way. I'm in no race either and don't want to catipult the wood across my acreage!


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## Haywire Haywood (Jan 1, 2010)

iowa said:


> don't want to catapult the wood across my acreage!



I really don't understand you... LOL

Ian


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## iowa (Jan 1, 2010)

Haywire Haywood said:


> I really don't understand you... LOL
> 
> Ian



Neither do I!! My wife is wondering why I want to rip apart a perfectly good splitter and do this. LOL... If she only knew....:monkey:


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## TFPace (Jan 1, 2010)

Haywire Haywood said:


> The only thing that might be a drawback to this is the cycle time of the cylinder. A dedicated 2" cylinder for the lift would be a lot faster unless you used some pulleys to multiply line speed.
> 
> Ian



Haywire, I'm with you. The MD tomahawk guy has it figured out with his log lift.
Not to mention the rest of his system. The Aussies might have already taken a look see at his You-Tube video, who knows?

To have to connect/disconnect the cable to raise & lower the lift assembly for any length of time would drive me nuts. 

But this is Iowa's project so I'll just mind my own business and continue to enjoy this very interesting thread.


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## iowa (Jan 1, 2010)

TFPace said:


> Haywire, I'm with you. The MD tomahawk guy has it figured out with his log lift.
> Not to mention the rest of his system. The Aussies might have already taken a look see at his You-Tube video, who knows?
> 
> To have to connect/disconnect the cable to raise & lower the lift assembly for any length of time would drive me nuts.
> ...



I agree. I like md tomahawks set up also. However I'm trying to do this with what I have. I don't wanna add another $500 in cylinder, hoses, and valves, etc.

With mine I won't have to disconnect anything. It will take less time to set up mine than his. Since he has to flip his lift down and pin the cylinder to it. Mine will just flip down and be connected to the cable. 

I guess if I'm not happy with the cable set up. I can always modify it huh?


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## triptester (Jan 1, 2010)

The cable lift takes 3 seconds to setup with gloves on. I can disconnect and completely remove the log lift in about 15 seconds. The total cost with all new materials for the log lift is less than the cost of a hydraulic valve.

The cable log lift never needs to be disconnected, for travel ,or storage.


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## iowa (Jan 3, 2010)

Had my dad come over today and hooked me up with a 220 lead for his welder. He brought the welder by too. It's an old 225amp Lincoln arc welder. Should be plenty for what I need to do while assembling this thing. I ran a bead across an old bent lawn mower blade. Works great. 

Hopefully I can pick up my table and tubing this week and start putting stuff together next weekend. :jawdrop:


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## iowa (Jan 10, 2010)

I went into work today and worked on the splitter some more. I got my 2 upright plates done. Didn't take a picture of them though. Woops. I got a lot of my assembly parts finished and I picked up the 1/2" table and 2x6" tubing last week. I need to bring the tubing and table in to work sometime and cut on them a bit before I can start assembling it all. Won't be long now!! I got home from work today and took the donor splitter apart. It took all of 5 min to do. I need to get some plugs and caps for the hydraulic lines and disconnect them too. 

I added 2 more welds to each side of the wedge to make the angle better as stated by several people here. Turned out good and should work better. Here's a couple pics.


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## iowa (Jan 17, 2010)

Ok. Stay late after work fri. night and got my table notch cut out and my tubbing cut. I tack welded the table to the tube upright, packed up all my other parts and headed home. Didn't get anything done yesterday. But did get some welding done today at home after work. I welded the 45 under the table and the welds between the table and the tubing. Also welded the brackets for the log lift to the table. Here's some pics. I hope to get a lot of this assembled the next 3 days after work. We'll see what happens though. So far I'm happy with how it's going together.


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## iowa (Jan 17, 2010)

more


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## iowa (Jan 17, 2010)

Do you guys think it'll work? Or just a waste of time?:monkey:


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## triptester (Jan 18, 2010)

Looking good. It will work and I believe you will be very happy with it. Some minor changes might have to be made once it is up and running but that is normal with any new build. It is hard to anticipate all the different forces that the machine will be subjected to with various types of wood.


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## iowa (Jan 18, 2010)

triptester said:


> Looking good. It will work and I believe you will be very happy with it. Some minor changes might have to be made once it is up and running but that is normal with any new build. It is hard to anticipate all the different forces that the machine will be subjected to with various types of wood.



Yes. I always anticipate changes. It is the nature of the beast. Everything new needs to be tweaked a bit to make it work perfect!


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## iowa (Jan 19, 2010)

Ok. Getting really close to starting it up. Hopefully it works. Took part of the day off from work since it was sooo nice out and I already had a days worth of overtime anyways! Things went pretty smooth. Welded the bosses to each side of the cylinder. Fitted them to upper mounting plates. Welded 7/16" spacers on the back side of the upper mounting plates. Dry fitted it all together and moved the cylinder in its upper position. Checked, double checked, and tripple check to make sure the cylinder rod was parellel to the beam. Used my drill bushings and tranfered punched the pin holes and drilled them out. Made the 3/4" pins fit nicely. Welded a back-splash on the back of the table. Then finally welded a small plate to mount the valve. 

I just lack hoses to try it all out. Hopefully we have everything I need at work. Can't wait to start it up. I also have to weld the mounting ring to the wedge for the cylinder rod. I need some shim to make sure the beam is in the center of the wedge slide.


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## iowa (Jan 19, 2010)

more


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## iowa (Jan 19, 2010)

more


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## Steve NW WI (Jan 19, 2010)

Will you be relying on the two pins to hold the cylinder in place, or will you be welding stops on the top of the tube?

Looking Purty Dang Good otherwise!


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## iowa (Jan 19, 2010)

Steve NW WI said:


> Will you be relying on the two pins to hold the cylinder in place, or will you be welding stops on the top of the tube?
> 
> Looking Purty Dang Good otherwise!


I will be welding a 1" square piece of metal on both sides for stops. I'm not worried about the pins breaking, just the holes in the 1/4" wall tubing will start to waller a bit.


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## iowa (Jan 20, 2010)

Awesome.. Got a guy making me some hoses for it today. Hopefully it all fits together after I get home from work.


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## beerman6 (Jan 20, 2010)

Just got done reading and watching the videos...Thats pretty cool.


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## iowa (Jan 20, 2010)

beerman6 said:


> Just got done reading and watching the videos...Thats pretty cool.


Maybe I can get some video this weekend! 

I just got the hoses hooked up and the cylinder rod collar welded on! It moved up and down freely and it split wood!!! Amazing!!! I started off with sasafras, then walnut, then elm!! I got to elm and the wedge stuck. I need to do some more welding and grinding. It needs more of an angle on the second step! Otherwise I'm really happy with it. 

Next: the log lifter!


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## beerman6 (Jan 20, 2010)

Being able to stand up straight will be a big plus.My splitter only gets used in the vert. position and it does get old sitting on a log all hunched over.Most of my wood is from a tree service and he only gives me the stuff he dont want to deal with...large knotty stuff.


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## rancher2 (Jan 20, 2010)

Iowa
The splitter looks like is coming together. I just wander if the slide is tall enough or if it will bind up on the tough wood like elm, mulberry, hedge. I also think you will find you need a taller blade and more of a V on the tough wood. If you were splitting ash all the time your current wedge would work great. In the past to make wedges we have used a road patrol blade to start the split and then make a V off of it. The nice thing about those blades is the more you use them the sharper they get. Makes splitting elm easy. Take care and keep the pictures coming.


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## iowa (Jan 20, 2010)

I put one more weld pass closer to the edge of the blade. Then took my grinder to the edges of the wedge backer. Ground the edges so there was more of an angle. NOW it splits right through elm. The piece of elm I grabbed had a huge knot in it. It went through it but sheared it off. Pretty much sliced it in 2. 

Seems very stout. I've been checking all of my hoses. All of the welds and bolts. The wedge slides do not bind. I have the cylinder rod parellel to within a 64th of an inch with the main beam. That I think is the key for it not to bind. I didn't even use the grease zerks either. I didn't want a mess as I am going to split with it more and make sure everything is good before painting it.. 

Here't some more pics. Thanks for the comments guys. If you have any questions just ask.


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## iowa (Jan 20, 2010)

more


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## iowa (Jan 20, 2010)

one more


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## Constrictor (Jan 26, 2010)

Holy cow! thats awsome! when can i borrow it?:greenchainsaw:


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## iowa (Jan 26, 2010)

Constrictor said:


> Holy cow! thats awsome! when can i borrow it?:greenchainsaw:


Any day Steve!!!


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## iowa (Jan 26, 2010)

Constrictor said:


> Holy cow! thats awsome! when can i borrow it?:greenchainsaw:



I'm sure you don't mind if I borrow your Desert Eagle 45mag? Or 40% Edge? :jawdrop:


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## iowa (Jan 31, 2010)

Ok. Picked up some sq. tubing friday after work for the log lifter. I was able to spend the day out in the garage and build it. Everything came out ok. Had to do some remodification and extra cutting after welding the pully on the upper arm. But nothing serious. It works though. It lifts me up. And it goes back down! Like it should. Can't wait to try it out. Lots of snow on the ground now though. YUCK...


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## indiansprings (Jan 31, 2010)

Looking Awesome! Can't wait to hear how you like it.


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## reccutter (Jan 31, 2010)

For you guys building splitters like this,having smarts,skill and imagination to produce a superior machine. I'd love to see one of you sell these,get rich. Crazy fast cycle, affordable log lift, not have to bend over splitter kneel/sit. Just thanks for the pics and you should very well be proud. One idea I liked also if you thought about a remote foot control.


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## iowa (Jan 31, 2010)

reccutter said:


> For you guys building splitters like this,having smarts,skill and imagination to produce a superior machine. I'd love to see one of you sell these,get rich. Crazy fast cycle, affordable log lift, not have to bend over splitter kneel/sit. Just thanks for the pics and you should very well be proud. One idea I liked also if you thought about a remote foot control.



Thanks for the comments. Things like this are really simple for me as I do a lot more complex stuff at work. I enjoy designing and building. Get me a shop, tools, and material, and I'll start building log splitters for you!

I don't really think you need crazy fast cycle. This has at least a 6-7sec. cycle time. Which is plenty fast. Any faster and someone could get hurt. If you want more production, put a 4 way on it. The log lift is affordable. No cylinder and you don't have to purchase a different valve. Cable and pulley is cheap. Effective and works great. 

Only thing I'm worried about is how much it will lift before it wants to tip over. It hold me just fine. I'm 170lbs. But if I jump or rock on it, she gets a little light on the other end. I'm thinking 200lbs max. Which is probably plenty. Time will tell.


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## reccutter (Jan 31, 2010)

6-7 sec cycle seems pretty darn fast to me, but I'm just working with a mtd style splitter for now. It gets the job done ok. I use it the vert.position mostly.I've used a couple different style splitters and found horizontal hurt my back most. That's what I like about your design,you're standing like a human would. About your log lift, maybe a U shaped brace that attaches after transported about 8' or so, to give a wider stance? or maybe acouple weights low on right side.


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## iowa (Jan 31, 2010)

reccutter said:


> 6-7 sec cycle seems pretty darn fast to me, but I'm just working with a mtd style splitter for now. It gets the job done ok. I use it the vert.position mostly.I've used a couple different style splitters and found horizontal hurt my back most. That's what I like about your design,you're standing like a human would. About your log lift, maybe a U shaped brace that attaches after transported about 8' or so, to give a wider stance? or maybe acouple weights low on right side.



The whole reason for building this is just the reasons you stated. After an hour of hunching over the splitter in the horiz position or crouched down sitting on a log I'm ready to call it quits. With this set-up I should be good to go all day splitting if I need to. 

If it needs weight on the right side I will add some. I will see how it goes first though. That's an easy fix!


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## iowa (Jan 31, 2010)

Another option you could do for a log lift is this! Put a 12V battery system on it with electric start and an electric winch. Build a swivel boom off the back letf portion of the table. String a choker cable out to your log. Drag it right up to the splitter, lift it, swing it, split it!! Getting fancy right there!!!


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## Kydan (Jan 31, 2010)

That's a nice machine you building there. I can't wait to see it complete.


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## Constrictor (Feb 1, 2010)

iowa said:


> I'm sure you don't mind if I borrow your Desert Eagle 45mag? Or 40% Edge? :jawdrop:



if i had a desert eagle 45mag, or a 40% carden edge, yeah you could borrow either one.
What kind of paint are you gonna use on that thing? emron?


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## iowa (Feb 1, 2010)

Constrictor said:


> if i had a desert eagle 45mag, or a 40% carden edge, yeah you could borrow either one.
> What kind of paint are you gonna use on that thing? emron?



You have to paint it?? :censored:

Just kidding. I got some rustoleum equipment paint. Safety red. I'll give it 2 coats of paint. It's brush on paint too. I'll use it for a while until the weather warms up a bit. Can says to paint when it's 50 plus degrees.


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## Dan_IN_MN (Feb 1, 2010)

*Great build!!*



iowa said:


> .....Only thing I'm worried about is how much it will lift before it wants to tip over. It hold me just fine. I'm 170lbs. But if I jump or rock on it, she gets a little light on the other end. I'm thinking 200lbs max. Which is probably plenty. Time will tell.



Great build! 

A thought about tipping. What about adding outriggers on the side of the lift arm? 

This might add some complexity....so.... I also thought about putting a counter force on the outriggers by using the cable force. My thoughts are......the heaver the log, the more force will be placed on the outrigger. I just got the idea and haven't worked out the details.

Clear as mud??? If that's the case I'll try to clear things up.....

Again...great build! I like thinking out of the box! REP sent!

Dan


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## triptester (Feb 1, 2010)

Looking real good.  If there is a tipping problem a outrigger on the left side should handle ,like manyhobies said, without adding much weight. It could be retractable for storage.


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## iowa (Feb 1, 2010)

I got home from work today and brought the beast out to try out the lifter. I know it splits wood well. But had some large oak pieces that have been layin in a pile for a while. Thought it would be a good test. 

First pieces were probably 100lbs +-. Worked great. I like. I got to a piece that weighed at least 250. Put it on, pulled the lever. Started goin up for a brief second then the other end of the machine come off the ground really fast!!! WHOOPS!!!! I let her back down. I will need an outrigger, or accept that 200lbs is the max for lifting capacity......... I will also need to make a better eye bolt to go on the wedge for the cable. After trying to lift that large piece it opened it up big time. Guess I could just buy another bolt and weld it together. We'll see... So far I like it a lot. Split a truckload of red oak in about 45 min. And I wasn't rushing. Playing around quite a bit.. :biggrinbounce2:


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## triptester (Feb 2, 2010)

The more you use it the more you will like it. On the first one I built I used a chain hook welded to the wedge guide.


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## iowa (Feb 2, 2010)

Oh. Beleive me. I'm lovin this thing already. It's taken a while to build and figure stuff out. But well worth the effort.


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## iowa (Nov 14, 2010)

Ok. I've been using this splitter for a while now. I'm having some issues with it. Mostly the verticle beam and the slide-wedge. Today I split some dead white oak that was HARD! It did pretty good, but after the run today it had some war wounds. 

What is happening is that the vertical beam is actually bent! This is a piece of 4"x6" 1/4" wall tubing. Initially the slide-wedge was binding on the beam. I took care of that by making more clearance between the slide and beam. I then had a 1/8" gap. I split a lot of wood that way and it was doing great. No more galling. Until today! Started seeing more and more. Then finally stepped back to look and noticed the shaft of the cylinder was bent about 3" from the wedge! 

Anyways. It needs some re-engineering. 

Is the vertical beam too soft? Do I need to find a different material? Or weld on some wear plates to the sides of the beam? Was hoping to get a lot of wood put up this winter, but can't do that if I'm broke down with a log splitter! 

Thanks


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## Mr. Firewood (Nov 14, 2010)

the slide is too short, on all the ones I have built we always made the slide-guide 3 times the width of the beam used


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## iowa (Nov 14, 2010)

Mr. Firewood said:


> the slide is too short, on all the ones I have built we always made the slide-guide 3 times the width of the beam used



So the width of the beam is 4". I need to make my slide 12" tall? WOW. What about timberdevils slide??? Here's a pic.


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## triptester (Nov 15, 2010)

I had a similar problem with the first one I built. I found that the surface of tubing is much softer than the mill scale on hot rolled beams. I changed mine to a longer slide and used AR 400 abrasion resistant steel for the slide. Instead of full wrapping the tube I welded 2x2x3/8 angle to form channels on the front of the tube, simillar to the formed beam of the Speeco splitters.


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## Constrictor (Nov 15, 2010)

iowa said:


> So the width of the beam is 4". I need to make my slide 12" tall? WOW. What about timberdevils slide??? Here's a pic.



Do you need to come borrow old faithful?


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## TFPace (Nov 15, 2010)

*Whitlands Engineering*

Has anyone built a ram set up similiar to the Whitland machine?

http://www.superaxe.com.au/whitlands-ws-150.html

I think the binding issue would be greatly reduced...


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## barnumb (Nov 21, 2010)

To me it looks like the wedge is too wide and thus requires brute force to push it through the log. That could lead to damage elswhere. Nice job on the build though.


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## iowa (Nov 21, 2010)

My splitter is completely tore down now. Main beam was almost 1/4" bent. The shaft on the cylinder is almost 1/16" bent. Don't know if I should replace the shaft or not? 

I started redesigning it on CAD today. It will be getting a 6x25 H beam. I'm going to order an 8" wedge from northern. I hope this build will work better.


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## cantoo (Nov 21, 2010)

I wouldn't worry about the shaft and 1/16" bend. I bent my loader tractor curl cyclinder almost 3" and it never leaked. I straightened it several times until I had time to replace it. I would think that just your main beam wasn't strong enough. I build alot of stuff and usually I overbuild everything because I'm a little hard on stuff and I hate to take the time to do it twice. Of cost it is possible to build it too strong and waste money too but the beam is a key component so make her big.


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## iowa (Nov 21, 2010)

Here's pic of new design. Shorter wedge. Going with 8" instead of 12". And locating the shaft in the middle.


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## barnumb (Nov 22, 2010)

You can make a set of V-blocks out of some hard maple 4x4s and use three of them in a press to straighten out the cyl rod. I have a set and use them to prevent damage when I straighten out somthing I dont want to damage. Like the dipper cyl on my old backhoe.....But we wont go into that here.


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## iowa (Nov 22, 2010)

I ordered a 64" long piece of 6x25 H beam today! And started cutting other parts at work today. Ordered my wedge from Northern tool last night! Let's get this party started!


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## Constrictor (Nov 22, 2010)

iowa said:


> I ordered a 64" long piece of 6x25 H beam today! And started cutting other parts at work today. Ordered my wedge from Northern tool last night! Let's get this party started!



You need to borrow old faithful again? Im going cutting this weekend!


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## iowa (Nov 22, 2010)

Constrictor said:


> You need to borrow old faithful again? Im going cutting this weekend!



Have fun. I brought home a dead white oak 2 Sundays ago. 30" dia. I got a new 18' dovetail tandem axel. I put a winch on the front of it. Works great. Love the electric brakes on it too.


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## iowa (Nov 23, 2010)

Got the H beam today!


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## iowa (Nov 30, 2010)

More progress! I spent almost all day at work on Sunday and did a lot of machining, welding, and fitting. I welded the 2 top plates on the H beam and set it on the mill. Dialed it in and popped 2 holes in for my cylinder plates. At least those are accurate and square! Got the table welded to the H beam also.. 

I'm patiently waiting for my wedge! I ordered it 2 Sundays ago! It still isn't here. It didn't ship until fri!!! Slow service! It should be here Thurs. though. Then I can get it welded up! I hope to be splitting wood by this weekend!


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## iowa (Dec 1, 2010)

Cylinder is on now. Wedge time tomorrow!


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## iowa (Dec 1, 2010)

Pics.


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## iowa (Dec 2, 2010)

It's finished! Just need to pick up a longer piece of cable and a belt for the pump. Damn new belt already is cracked with a chunk missing! wtf!


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## iowa (Dec 2, 2010)

more.


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## iowa (Dec 2, 2010)

one moo. Can't wait for the test spin tomorrow on V2! LOL. :hmm3grin2orange::biggrinbounce2:


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## Haywire Haywood (Dec 2, 2010)

I like that wedge a LOT better than the old one. Hope the new build irons all the kinks out!

Luck,
Ian


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## iowa (Dec 3, 2010)

I got to try it out tonight. It's a winner. No binding and it splits effortlessly. The wedge is great. We did a cord tonight. I'm gonna finish up the rest of my wood laying around this weekend. I'm stoked! Whoohoo.


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## iowa (Dec 3, 2010)

I wonder if I made blue prints for this design if people would be interested in building one like it? Or start making splitters like it and selling them?


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## CUCV (Dec 3, 2010)

iowa said:


> I wonder if I made blue prints for this design if people would be interested in building one like it? Or start making splitters like it and selling them?



What do you figure it would cost retail if you made them?


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## iowa (Dec 3, 2010)

CUCV said:


> What do you figure it would cost retail if you made them?



I really don't know what the mark up on stuff is anymore. All I know is what I have into it for metal.. A lot of the smaller parts I made at work while getting paid.. shhhhh. Fringe benefits of being in a nice shop with mills, lathes, plasma cutter, band saws, and welders. LOL.. 

I bought the splitter new for $1250. 
H beam was $145
1/2" 2'x4' plate was $90
Wedge was $40
steel tubing for log lift was $25
All the other small parts and extra hyd hoses I got from work. 

I would say that I added an extra $500 in parts. HOWEVER I sold my original H beam and wedge that came with it. I could have used it since my first design with the rectangular tubing didn't work. So really you would just need the plate for the table, some square tubing, and a few other odds and ends.. 

It would probably be safe to say that a $2200-$2500 price tag for one would be in the ball park.


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## CUCV (Dec 3, 2010)

LOL I go to my fathers work and Tig weld, They say we can still do it even after he retires in the spring. There electric, wire and gas!

Over the past 9 years I have got $1000's of dollars of metal out of the dumpster at my work (with permission). 10,000lbs trailer squatting time after time. The machine shop at my work is always overloaded so I can't get anything done there. I wish I could get some stuff powdercoated at work, we have a booth you could fit a truck in.




iowa said:


> I really don't know what the mark up on stuff is anymore. All I know is what I have into it for metal.. A lot of the smaller parts I made at work while getting paid.. shhhhh. Fringe benefits of being in a nice shop with mills, lathes, plasma cutter, band saws, and welders. LOL..
> 
> I bought the splitter new for $1250.
> H beam was $145
> ...


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## Steve NW WI (Dec 4, 2010)

iowa said:


> I really don't know what the mark up on stuff is anymore. All I know is what I have into it for metal.. A lot of the smaller parts I made at work while getting paid.. shhhhh. Fringe benefits of being in a nice shop with mills, lathes, plasma cutter, band saws, and welders. LOL..
> 
> I bought the splitter new for $1250.
> H beam was $145
> ...



If you aren't doubling the cost of your materials, chances are you'll wind up on the losing end of a fab job. It sounds spendy, but by the time you work all the math, there isn't a lot of true profit left even at that markup.


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## triptester (Dec 4, 2010)

The least expensive way of building this type of splitter with all new materials would be to convert an existing splitter.
The simplest to reconfigure would be a MTD short beam H/V splitter. The complete beam ,wedge ,cylinder ,and valve can be used as is with only minor modification. Reposition beam assembly, add table, lenghten hoses, and install log lift.
About $200 in new materials for the conversion.
New splitter to convert $1000 - $1200.
Labor ?
Profit ?


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## iowa (Dec 4, 2010)

triptester said:


> The least expensive way of building this type of splitter with all new materials would be to convert an existing splitter.
> The simplest to reconfigure would be a MTD short beam H/V splitter. The complete beam ,wedge ,cylinder ,and valve can be used as is with only minor modification. Reposition beam assembly, add table, lenghten hoses, and install log lift.
> About $200 in new materials for the conversion.
> New splitter to convert $1000 - $1200.
> ...



You are correct on that. I keep forgetting about the mtd splitter. But you still need to be able to drop the cylinder down for storage and transport!


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## Haywire Haywood (Dec 4, 2010)

I see the biggest problem as getting permission from your work to do that. If I were the owner, I don't think I would mind an employee doing a project for himself off the clock occasionally, but if he were making money with my lathes and bits, I would either put a halt to it or charge him a reduced shop rate to cover the wear and tear on my equipment.

The problem with blueprints is you sell one and it gets copied 10,000 times and posted on the net. Hard to protect and hard to sell if it's downloadable for free somewhere.

Ian


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## iowa (Dec 4, 2010)

In no way shape or form would I use my workplaces equipment to make money on the side. My boss knew what I was doing on the clock. He has no issues with it when we aren't busy. I also asked to use the shop last Sunday. 

If I were to build these to sell I would build my own shop and buy my own machines.


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## Haywire Haywood (Dec 4, 2010)

Ok, now that we have that established, how much to convert mine? 

Ian


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## triptester (Dec 4, 2010)

The MTD short beam splitters already have a cylinder that is front mounted that would only require minor change for quick raise and lowering for transport.


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## iowa (Dec 4, 2010)

Haywire Haywood said:


> Ok, now that we have that established, how much to convert mine?
> 
> Ian



LOL. I don't have a shop built and machines in it yet!


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## Dan_IN_MN (Dec 4, 2010)

*Working with CAD*

Splitter is looking great!

I thought I'd play around with some CAD tonight....just for fun.....
It's not finished....but you get the idea.

No guys....CAD has more than on meaning! LOL :hmm3grin2orange:

<a href="http://s1108.photobucket.com/albums/h403/dan_laduke/?action=view&amp;current=SPLITTER.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h403/dan_laduke/SPLITTER.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


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## iowa (Dec 4, 2010)

manyhobies said:


> Splitter is looking great!
> 
> I thought I'd play around with some CAD tonight....just for fun.....
> It's not finished....but you get the idea.
> ...



Sweet! Good job. I have auto CAd 14 on my computer. So no 3 D stuff. 

Where do u live in sw mn? My wife used to work in fairmont and I worked in algona ia. Born raised in nw Iowa.


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## Dan_IN_MN (Dec 4, 2010)

iowa said:


> Sweet! Good job. I have auto CAd 14 on my computer. So no 3 D stuff.
> 
> Where do u live in sw mn? My wife used to work in fairmont and I worked in algona ia. Born raised in nw Iowa.



Thanks for the kind words!

I live near a small town Green Isle. It's near.......Gaylord.....Glenco.....Arlington (it has the race track)..,...


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## iowa (Dec 4, 2010)

Do you have a log splitter that you want to convert over? Or are you going to build one from the ground up? 

Do you have a lot if trees there?


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## Dan_IN_MN (Dec 4, 2010)

iowa said:


> Do you have a log splitter that you want to convert over? Or are you going to build one from the ground up?
> 
> Do you have a lot if trees there?




I have a horz/vert home made splitter (not by me) that I need to get working. I have my FIL's horz splitter that we pass back and forth.

Yes there a fair amount of trees around here. Where there isn't a corn field there's either a road or trees.

Here's a pic of my splitter. I need to get the hydraulics figured out!






Before I got this one I was thinking about building this one:






Here's another idea that I've been kicking around. A two stage wedge:


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## kubotakid (Dec 5, 2010)

*Thats better*

I like the auto cad drawing, beam threw the table, then Id weld supports on the bottom, for the table, my first thought of the second one iowa built was that the beam just welded to the top of the table, aint gona hold, Eric


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## iowa (Dec 5, 2010)

kubotakid said:


> I like the auto cad drawing, beam threw the table, then Id weld supports on the bottom, for the table, my first thought of the second one iowa built was that the beam just welded to the top of the table, aint gona hold, Eric



Lol. I haven't taken pics of under the table. Do you think I would be that stupid to not weld 45deg gussets under the table?


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## kubotakid (Dec 5, 2010)

iowa said:


> Lol. I haven't taken pics of under the table. Do you think I would be that stupid to not weld 45deg gussets under the table?



NO, I dont think your stupid,..I didnt see that the beam went (threw) the table, Iam only concerned that (IF) it dosent, It wont hold butt welded to the top of the table,...Thats all, I like your converson as a whole, Eric


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## iowa (Dec 5, 2010)

kubotakid said:


> NO, I dont think your stupid,..I didnt see that the beam went (threw) the table, Iam only concerned that (IF) it dosent, It wont hold butt welded to the top of the table,...Thats all, I like your converson as a whole, Eric



Lol. Just given ya heck. Beam goes through the table and gussets under the table going to the beam.


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## Constrictor (Dec 5, 2010)

I like the lifting arm, but i gotta ask, what is the benifit of the table top splitter over a standard splitter? If you use that table to put coffee on it will rust. Any chance of getting a video of the arm and splitting action?


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## iowa (Dec 5, 2010)

Constrictor said:


> I like the lifting arm, but i gotta ask, what is the benifit of the table top splitter over a standard splitter? If you use that table to put coffee on it will rust. Any chance of getting a video of the arm and splitting action?



Any answer I give, you will have to argue about it. If you wanna see it split make the long trek of 10 miles and bring some wood.


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## triptester (Dec 5, 2010)

Here is a video of a similar splitter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYrMBRFa-wc


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## triptester (Dec 5, 2010)

Here are videos of what I believe was the original build of this design.

http://www.powersplit.com/video/vid.html


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## iowa (Dec 5, 2010)

Constrictor said:


> I like the lifting arm, but i gotta ask, what is the benifit of the table top splitter over a standard splitter? If you use that table to put coffee on it will rust. Any chance of getting a video of the arm and splitting action?



Maybe you want me to convert your splitter over? That way you have a place for your coffee when you split wood.. You could get a bigger engine and pump for yours and then splitting time could be cut in half. That is one slow splitter that you have!:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


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## TFPace (Dec 5, 2010)

triptester said:


> Here is a video of a similar splitter.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYrMBRFa-wc



That's a sweet splitter!


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## TFPace (Dec 5, 2010)

*Binding issues*

I would love to see how much play powersplit has in their assymbly that holds the wedge away and centered from the tube? 

http://www.powersplit.com/images/pictures/04.gif

Iowa, how much play did you have on your initial design? Your new slide looks like it will work great!


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## iowa (Dec 6, 2010)

TFPace said:


> I would love to see how much play powersplit has in their assymbly that holds the wedge away and centered from the tube?
> 
> http://www.powersplit.com/images/pictures/04.gif
> 
> Iowa, how much play did you have on your initial design? Your new slide looks like it will work great!



I would like to look at powersplit and timberdevils log splitters to see what they have for clearance also..

I first started with .050 clearance between the beam and wedge assembly. Then when I noticed galling I went to .125 clearance. Still had issues. 

I think powersplit and timberdevils splitters rely on having the upper plates holding the cylinder welded to the main beam with NO play. Also it looks as though the shafts on their cylinders are a bit bigger with 2" plus! 

Some other things to note with the powersplit and timberdevils. I haven't ever seen a video with them splitting hard knotty white oak, hedge, or anything really tuff. I've mostly seen ash, and easier stuff. Always straight grained stuff. Mine did great with walnut and easier stuff. Even oak if it didn't have lots of knots. 

Now after I made it with the H beam I'm not affraid to split anything. I worked it hard over the weekend, sat and sunday.


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## iowa (Dec 6, 2010)

TFPace said:


> I would love to see how much play powersplit has in their assymbly that holds the wedge away and centered from the tube?
> 
> http://www.powersplit.com/images/pictures/04.gif
> 
> Iowa, how much play did you have on your initial design? Your new slide looks like it will work great!



I would like to look at powersplit and timberdevils log splitters to see what they have for clearance also..

I first started with .050 clearance between the beam and wedge assembly. Then when I noticed galling I went to .125 clearance. Still had issues. 

I think powersplit and timberdevils splitters rely on having the upper plates holding the cylinder welded to the main beam with NO play. Also it looks as though the shafts on their cylinders are a bit bigger with 2" plus! 

Some other things to note with the powersplit and timberdevils. I haven't ever seen a video with them splitting hard knotty white oak, hedge, or anything really tuff. I've mostly seen ash, and easier stuff. Always straight grained stuff. Mine did great with walnut and easier stuff. Even oak if it didn't have lots of knots. 

Now after I made it with the H beam I'm not affraid to split anything. I worked it hard over the weekend, sat and sunday.


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## triptester (Dec 6, 2010)

Powersplit manufactures cylinders as well as other hydraulic components. I was able to get a quick look a 2-station model. The cylinder has a much longer front rod guide than most cylinders and rod appears to be larger than 2". The cylinder and wedge are mounted rigid. The collar around the column to the wedge appears to be intended more to keep the wedge from rotating than to to keep the wedge close to the beam. The clearance around the beam was 1/8" or more.


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## iowa (Dec 6, 2010)

I think my first design would have worked if I used 3/8" wall tubing instead of 1/4". And welded the cylinder support plates directly to the main tube. But if I welded them directly to the beam then I would have issues with moving the cylinder down for transporting and getting in the garage. The top of my cylinder is over 8" tall when splitting! LOL..


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## triptester (Dec 6, 2010)

On my first splitter the support plates were welded solid but the gulling was still a problem with full wrapping the column, although I didn't have my wedge mounted rigid to the rod.

On the next 3 splitter I have used variations of a typical slide with no binding. I use the pins to hold the cylinder mounting plate to the fixed support plates.


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## iowa (Oct 31, 2011)

The splitters been getting a workout the last week. Yesterday my brother and neighbor came over to help split the rest of my honey locust logs I got this spring. We did 3 cord yesterday. Doing more today with my kids. 

It's working great and looks better now. I finished painting it a few weeks ago finally!


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## Constrictor (Oct 31, 2011)

it didnt happen if you dont post pics!:hmm3grin2orange:


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## KiwiBro (Oct 27, 2014)

Don't ask the price though:


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## iowa (Oct 27, 2014)

That's pretty neat! I just wonder how well it would do with knotty nasty wood?


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## Kevin in Ohio (Oct 27, 2014)

iowa said:


> That's pretty neat! I just wonder how well it would do with knotty nasty wood?


 Not sure but I believe that is red gum. From what I have been told it is harder to split than most anything we have over here.


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## SWI Don (Oct 27, 2014)

Some of those chunks looked to have interlocking grain. All the wood was short which does make it some easier. Cool concept though.


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## KiwiBro (Oct 28, 2014)

On your side of the planet, Tempest do a very nice horizontal and I also like this vertical option of theirs:


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