# Best climbing rope?



## Ace12

What brand, type, and size of rope do you guys use for climbing? I am new to this and would like to invest in some rope for recreational climbing, but after doing some research, there is just too many to chose from. I would rather rely on the opinions of experienced pros. Right now I have some PMI static Kernmantle 11mm that was gave to me. This stuff is pretty stiff, not sure if that is good or bad for climbing. Thanks in advance for your input.


----------



## Mikecutstrees

static kermantle will not work for a climbing line. Too stiff. I am currently using arbormaster BRW, it's 1/2" and pretty easy to hold. The friction hitch slides well with it and it also holds a hitch well. I have also used Safety blue and hi-vee, which were good. I found them not to slide the friction hitch quite as well as the arbormaster though. Others may suggest different ropes but this is what I have tried and what worked for me. Stay away from the smaller than 1/2" ropes if your going to be using traditional techniques. Have fun and be safe.....


----------



## Ace12

Thanks for replying. I'm going to start out using DdRT, but also plan on learning SRT in the future. My first step is getting some gear. Saddle, Rope, helmet, ect. I'm looking at the Petzl sequoia for a harness.


----------



## safeT1st

*Second hand rope ????*

Welcome and good luck . I am learning using Arbormaster Bluestreak (1/2) and have no complaints . I seriously question someone "giving you a rope" . I have learned from this site and reading that you MUST know the history of any life supporting gear . To use a rope passed on to you is not wise , unless it is brand new . A rope may look fine but you do not know what loads and shocks it has been subjected to . Remember that you may not get a second chance if you take a fall . Best of luck and have fun .


----------



## originalhooker

Best climbing rope? 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What brand, type, and size of rope do you guys use for climbing? I am new to this and would like to invest in some rope for recreational climbing, but after doing some research, there is just too many to chose from. I would rather rely on the opinions of experienced pros. Right now I have some PMI static Kernmantle 11mm that was gave to me. This stuff is pretty stiff, not sure if that is good or bad for climbing. Thanks in advance for your input.

Been using a newer rope from Baileys - Black Max, love it so far (4 months).
very supple, easy to flip, handle, knots, excellant holding on friction knots - very trust worthy. zero problems with decent is tangled trees/ground clutter.

kernmantle will drop your butt as a climbing line, knots will loosen up and it burns easily, very prone to stiffen up if short sections take to force of weight, however works great for zip line, or when 200' or more of line is needed for lowering(low stretch)..
Col 3:14-21


----------



## masiman

I personally have only used Arbormaster Gold Streak so far. I may try Fire or Safety Blue next. I will stick with 1/2" for the time being. Maybe after this next one I will try a 7/16" rope.

However, based on reading through here, I think about any of the mid-price and up climbing lines from any of the major manufacturers (Samson, Arbormaster, Yale, New England, etc.) will do fine for your first rope. Expect to pay ~$100 for 120'. You can get rope cheaper. But for your first one, get vanilla, middle of the road. I'd recommend 16 strand, but 12 strand is good also. Get some climbing in on the rope. Figure out what you like and don't like about the rope and tuck that away for your next rope. My example is that I originally bought Arbor Plex at ~$70. Out of the bag it was very slick and did not hold a knot well. Some suggested washing it and light climbing to get it worked in. I knew I could have done that but I decided that for my first rope I would go to that ~$100 sweet spot. I am glad I did. The rope felt and performed the way I thought it should. There is no way my comfort and peace of mind was not worth $25. I could have made the Arbor Plex work. I like that the Arbormaster was more forgiving of my inexperience.


----------



## TDunk

I've been using Blackmax (i believe it's made by Yale) 12 and 16 strand ropes for about the past year. At first, it's a little slick. But after a couple uses it "burrs" up and feels good. It's not as good as Samson, but i'm happy with it. Just don't go on flea-bay and get some "off the wall" rope.


----------



## Ace12

What makes the 16 strand better than other ropes? A friend of mine reccomended Yale Blaze wich is a 24 strand. Yale XTC Fire, on the other hand, is a 16 strand. What is the major difference?

Other than the weight, is there any other disadvantage to using 
13mm(1/2) over 11mm(7/16). I have no hands on experience, but I would think the larger diameter would be easier to climb.


----------



## fireman

*climbing rope*

ace if you are climbing you want to use dynamic rope.dynamic rope has stretch to it if you shock it.in other words it will give on a fall and have less chance of injury.static has no stretch and is used in rescue and a lot stiffer.to be safe you want to use a rope that is rated for 4500lb or better for a single climber.if you are going to use it or do pick offs 2 climbers you want 9000lb 1\2 rope is excellent size and pmi is a good rope we use it in the fire service and i use for my tree company.the more strands give you better tinsil strenght.for some reason if you have 2 or 3 strands fry or break you have 14 left it is for safety.


----------



## Ace12

fireman said:


> ace if you are climbing you want to use dynamic rope.dynamic rope has stretch to it if you shock it.in other words it will give on a fall and have less chance of injury.static has no stretch and is used in rescue and a lot stiffer.to be safe you want to use a rope that is rated for 4500lb or better for a single climber.if you are going to use it or do pick offs 2 climbers you want 9000lb 1\2 rope is excellent size and pmi is a good rope we use it in the fire service and i use for my tree company.the more strands give you better tinsil strenght.for some reason if you have 2 or 3 strands fry or break you have 14 left it is for safety.



When I say "Cimbing" I mean " Tree Climbing". Dynamic is for rock climbing. It would have too much bounce for tree climbing.


----------



## fireman

*rope*

treeco ace posted recreational rope i must of miss understood the post.we you use static rope 9000lb pmi for climbing and tree work,I thought he was using it for recreation.just give him the difference between dynamic and static kermantel ropes.ace i hope this helps you out sorry for the mix up.ace is this brand new rope if it isnt do not use it.you dont know what the rope was used for and if the rope was shocked.If you dont know what the history of the rope is dont use it.Its your life line.


----------



## Ace12

The rope is brand new, but its too short and its extremely stiff. Its 67' of PMI Classic Static 12.5mm. It might work for SRT in a short tree.


----------



## fireman

*rope*

all my rope are 200 ft so we have extra to anchor if we have to.we do alot of 80 to 100 ft trees in are area.pmi sampson are excellent ropes stay with 1\2 for safety.be safe and have fun


----------



## Ace12

I was talking to a guy today about rope. He is the "top dog" of the verticle and cave rescue in this area. He said to stick with 7/16 because it weighs less, there is more hardware for it, and its easier to climb and rappel with it, easier to tie knots, ect....


----------



## masiman

Ace12 said:


> What makes the 16 strand better than other ropes? A friend of mine reccomended Yale Blaze wich is a 24 strand. Yale XTC Fire, on the other hand, is a 16 strand. What is the major difference?
> 
> Other than the weight, is there any other disadvantage to using
> 13mm(1/2) over 11mm(7/16). I have no hands on experience, but I would think the larger diameter would be easier to climb.





Ace12 said:


> I was talking to a guy today about rope. He is the "top dog" of the verticle and cave rescue in this area. He said to stick with 7/16 because it weighs less, there is more hardware for it, and its easier to climb and rappel with it, easier to tie knots, ect....



New England Ropes has a good article on the technology of ropes.

How much gear to plan on using? I can't think of any piece of gear that I would like to have that only comes in 7/16". I haven't priced it but I don't suspect there is savings in the gear that is 7/16". There is beauty in simplicity. You'll find alot of opinions when you start talking hardware. In the end you may have a few specialty pieces but you'll look for ways to simplify your setup. Gear just does not seem to be a driver in the 1/2" vs 7/16" rope selection process. Weight seems to be the big driver for the 7/16" in the arbor world given equal handling. I can't speak for the air rescue and spelunker folks.

You'll just have to try them out to see which one you like. Too much of a personal choice.


----------



## Timberhauler

I have switched to Poison Ivy.So far it's only downfall is that it's green which will make it harder to keep separated from brush in the spring and summer.


----------



## moray

Ace12 said:


> I was talking to a guy today about rope. He is the "top dog" of the verticle and cave rescue in this area. He said to stick with 7/16 because it weighs less, there is more hardware for it, and its easier to climb and rappel with it, easier to tie knots, ect....



Keep in mind that these guys don't do DRT. As for tying knots, the static 7/16ths in rope used by cavers (I have some) is much stiffer than arborist rope like, for example, 1/2 in Arbormaster, and consequently it is much harder to knot. The "top dog" is right on the money when it comes to SRT, but you have wisely chosen to begin with DRT. In the DRT world you need very little hardware (one carabiner?), and any of the 1/2 in ropes should work fine. I can tell you that when I head out to do a little DRT climbing, I never reach for one of my 11 mm lines--they just don't work as well.


----------



## jomoco

Now bear in mind here that I'm just a dumb old school tree man. But many years ago a 6'7" 300lb exmarine climber and I were discussing which climbing lines were strongest and best suited for our work.

I bought 6 twenty foot sections of the most popular lines available at that time for a little old school testing. I tied each line around a big stump with a running bowline, then tied off the other end to the front bumper of my 84 Toy 4X4 tooltruck with a bowline knot. In low 4WD I backed up taking out the slack, at the point the rope was taught I gunned the throttle and let the clutch out.

I snapped every line except the Samson True Blue, which stalled my tool truck.

Samson TB is a little oversized for a 1/2 inch line, and considerably heavier than its competition, but it passed my old school test while the others failed.

It has been my exclusive choice for both climbing and rigging lines for well over 10 years now.

My big marine buddy uses Samson TB exclusively as well.

Work safe!

jomoco


----------



## OTG BOSTON

jomoco said:


> Now bear in mind here that I'm just a dumb old school tree man. But many years ago a 6'7" 300lb exmarine climber and I were discussing which climbing lines were strongest and best suited for our work.
> 
> I bought 6 twenty foot sections of the most popular lines available at that time for a little old school testing. I tied each line around a big stump with a running bowline, then tied off the other end to the front bumper of my 84 Toy 4X4 tooltruck with a bowline knot. In low 4WD I backed up taking out the slack, at the point the rope was taught I gunned the throttle and let the clutch out.
> 
> I snapped every line except the Samson True Blue, which stalled my tool truck.
> 
> Samson TB is a little oversized for a 1/2 inch line, and considerably heavier than its competition, but it passed my old school test while the others failed.
> 
> It has been my exclusive choice for both climbing and rigging lines for well over 10 years now.
> 
> My big marine buddy uses Samson TB exclusively as well.
> 
> Work safe!
> 
> jomoco




While I respect the scientific nature of your old school testing, I must point out the fact that you only tested the BREAKING STRENGTH of various ropes.

There are a few other factors that should be considered as well. I just ordered a 200' length of tachyon. I can read all about it in online forums, but I'll never know how it performs untill I try it for myself.

With regard to your breaking strength test; did your results conflict with the rope manufacturers' specifications??


----------



## jomoco

OTG BOSTON said:


> While I respect the scientific nature of your old school testing, I must point out the fact that you only tested the BREAKING STRENGTH of various ropes.
> 
> There are a few other factors that should be considered as well. I just ordered a 200' length of tachyon. I can read all about it in online forums, but I'll never know how it performs untill I try it for myself.
> 
> With regard to your breaking strength test; did your results conflict with the rope manufacturers' specifications??



Don't get all froggy on me OTG, I already admitted I was just a dumb old climber, I've no doubt you could out climb me everyday of the week, and make me look just the silly old fool I am. I was just tryin to explain what old fools do. Not ISA certified professionals who know their stuff inside out like you OTG old friend.

jomoco


----------



## moray

jomoco said:


> ...I snapped every line except the Samson True Blue, which stalled my tool truck...jomoco



I love these real-life tests! My buddy the local arborist used his 4X4 3/4 ton PU, loaded with tools, in low range, to try and break some itty-bitty 5/16 inch Tenex in which I had spliced two eyes. With his wheels on dry pavement, he still had to use a 2:1 pulley system to break it.

But who cares? All the climbing lines out there, including the 11 mm lines, are plenty strong to break you in half in a fall long before they would ever break. Ace12 doesn't need to worry about strength; as a beginner he probably doesn't need to concern himself very much about the subtle differences between the ropes, either.

I got a chance to try True Blue for about an hour one time. For a rope that feels very different from Arbormaster in the hand, it seemed surprisingly similar under tension in the tree. I liked it.


----------



## OTG BOSTON

jomoco said:


> Don't get all froggy on me OTG, I already admitted I was just a dumb old climber, I've no doubt you could out climb me everyday of the week, and make me look just the silly old fool I am. I was just tryin to explain what old fools do. Not ISA certified professionals who know their stuff inside out like you OTG old friend.
> 
> jomoco



I am NOT ISA certified, FWIW. I'm also not one to toot my own horn when it comes to my vast knowledge and super human climbing abilities 

Just pointing out the fact that there are other factors to consider (other than breaking strength) when choosing a lifeline.

Self deprication doesn't become you jomoco, I wasn't trying to be a wise @$$. I was trying to make a point for the newer climbers here who may take your advice as gospel.......not knowing how silly you can be.


----------



## jomoco

OTG BOSTON said:


> I am NOT ISA certified, FWIW. I'm also not one to toot my own horn when it comes to my vast knowledge and super human climbing abilities
> 
> Just pointing out the fact that there are other factors to consider (other than breaking strength) when choosing a lifeline.
> 
> Self deprication doesn't become you jomoco, I wasn't trying to be a wise @$$. I was trying to make a point for the newer climbers here who may take your advice as gospel.......not knowing how silly you can be.



My apologies OTG.

Silly old climbers like me tend to equate breaking strength in lifelines with far too much importance, I'll leave this important task of giving sound advice to newbies in your good hands.

Me being an old fool is very well known to most climbers here, please excuse my foolish excursion into 101 training and advice.

jomoco


----------



## OTG BOSTON

jomoco said:


> My apologies OTG.
> 
> Silly old climbers like me tend to equate breaking strength in lifelines with far too much importance, I'll leave this important task of giving sound advice to newbies in your good hands.
> 
> Me being an old fool is very well known to most climbers here, please excuse my foolish excursion into 101 training and advice.
> 
> jomoco




Of course breaking strength is important, but you can get that info from the manufacturer. If your tests showed something different, great, tell us about it. 
Or tell us some stories of hemp lines or manilla depending on how old you are.

Just don't patronize me, its not cool.


----------



## Ace12

Alot of great info guys, thanks. Anyone have any experience with the Hybrids like Yale Blaze. Suppost to be good for both DdRT and SRT? If Not the Blaze than I might just start off with some Arbormaster and save up some more money and buy a second rope for SRT.


----------



## woodchux

Arbormaster is my favorite 1/2" rope. Velocity hot for a 7/16" line. I think new guys should start out with a thicker rope (1/2") because one good nick with a saw could easily go through the smaller 7/16" line. 

Anyone out there ever climb on 5/8 rope?


----------



## Ace12

I'm not worried about a saw. I am interested in strictly recreational climbing.


----------



## reachtreeservi

woodchux said:


> Arbormaster is my favorite 1/2" rope. Velocity hot for a 7/16" line. I think new guys should start out with a thicker rope (1/2") because one good nick with a saw could easily go through the smaller 7/16" line.
> 
> Anyone out there ever climb on 5/8 rope?



I climb with both 1/2 and 7/16 rope . One good nick is enough to retire or cut the bad spot out on either size.
I don't think there's any difference in safety between sizes. After all , we are only talking about 1/16 of an inch here.

Ace , you mentioned Blaze and Arbormaster. I've used both. They're darn good rope !
Of the two , I prefer the blaze.


----------



## Mitchell

*rope*



Ace12 said:


> I'm not worried about a saw. I am interested in strictly recreational climbing.



I have spent time with various rope sizes and I personally prefer the 11mil ropes. Smaller ropes with higher weave counts seem less likely break down to me. I use the light weight velocity myself for arborist work. I use 9/16 rope for rescue work.

As your acquaintance pointed out, gear for 9/16 is significantly more expensive. The gear for bigger ropes usually meets NFPA or other requirements that require a lot of certification tests and has liability costs built in. For rec climbing go with smaller rope, as all the gear can be had for cheap. It is also for sale at most sporting good stores. The properly rated gear for larger rope is generally supplied at industrial outlets.


----------

