# Just starting out in Milling.



## Quietfly (Feb 8, 2016)

Hey Guys, 
I'm just starting out in chainsaw milling, and i'm overwhelmed by the amount of info out there. I've read the milling 101 thread on this site several times over and have attempted to soak up every piece of info i can find on various other reputable, or in-famous boards. 
My main purpose would be to mill small logs no larger than 24 inches, and make boards that are 13 to 15 by how ever long the log would be, to provide me with an abundant "free/cheap" supply of wood for projects. 

Based on this would a panther mill II 30 inch be suitable for short boarding work? I've also looked at the
Granberg 777 & the Granberg MK-III. Panther looks bare bones but solid. I'm looking at picking up a used stihl 044 or a husky 281, or 390 as a mill saw.

I'm not sure what bar and chain i'll use, as again the amount of information is just staggering. i was leaning towards a ripping milling chain like the *Oregon 72RD, *but the low pro 3/8's chain supposedly being up to 30% faster also has some appeal. 
I'll mostly be milling Maple as that's whats available to me here with some beech and Sassafras thrown in on occasion. 

I figure i'd like to do it right, however i'd also not want this to be the start of a Divorce due to spending.  
I appreciated any and all advice. 
thanks!
-Chris


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## BIG JAKE (Feb 8, 2016)

I dropped 500 bones for a used 066 about 10 years aago. A couple milling chains woodland pro for whatever pitch and gauge bar your saw comes with but the bar rails must be in good shape and bar not worn out. An 044 should work ok for smaller logs. For the difference in cost though i'd go a little bigger saw. If your good at maintaining machines milling is not going to cost alot once your set up. Cost of lumber means every board is paying you back. I have thoroughly enjoyed the entire milling experience. My wife has no complaints either.


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## Quietfly (Feb 8, 2016)

Thanks for the advice, what mill are you running? I was thinking about the 281 or 390 as a milling saw, it just seemed that parts and repair for some of the older saws could get costly. Im pretty mechanically inclined, so im not afraid of the maintenance, but i am afraid of my wife see the cost for said maintenance. 
Given the choice would you just choose the largest saw possible and work from there?

Thanks, 
-Chris


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## BigOakAdot (Feb 8, 2016)

Welcome to AS. Make sure you do some projects for the wife and you should be good to start buying 090's like there's no tomorrow!! 

I have an Mk3 and it's great. Have nothing but good things to say about it but if the panther version is cheaper I would maybe go with that. I've heard good things about them and am waiting for a big one I recently ordered. 

One thing I would recommend for a beginner is getting an aluminum extension ladder for your initial cut. I built make shift guides out of 2x10's and it wasted a lot of time. Just make sure the ladder is straight with no rivets where the mill will ride. A guy from work had a junky one he gave me for free. 

Good luck

BOA


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## BIG JAKE (Feb 8, 2016)

Quietfly said:


> Thanks for the advice, what mill are you running? I was thinking about the 281 or 390 as a milling saw, it just seemed that parts and repair for some of the older saws could get costly. Im pretty mechanically inclined, so im not afraid of the maintenance, but i am afraid of my wife see the cost for said maintenance.
> Given the choice would you just choose the largest saw possible and work from there?
> 
> Thanks,
> -Chris


I'm running a 48" MKIII. Parts for any saw is costly. Hang out in the chainsaw section and you will come up to speed real quick on how to prevent problems. If you do that then you should have few issues with the wife and lots of lumber for projects.


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## Quietfly (Feb 10, 2016)

Thanks Guys!
would you be able to post pictures of your setups? i'm curious to see what they look like.


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## hautions11 (Feb 10, 2016)

Welcome. Here is my 084 in a 32" white oak. I second the big saw theory. I used an 064 and found bigger was better with the 084. Now starting smaller and working up is not bad either, but my 064 bars did not fit on my 084 etc.






Here is my 064. That log is probably a 24" ash.





I never used a ladder, but in the background of this picture you can see some 2 X 4's. You can barely make out an aluminum extrusion attached to the 2 X's. I can not even remember where I bought them, but they were less then $20. The aluminum extrusion has holes in it to screw to the log and then the mill rides on the smooth 2 X 4's. Look around used, I have even seen a few. This is a 36" mill and it would work fine for the logs you are talking about. Think about the total spend for everything and work within that. What do you think your total budget is?


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## hautions11 (Feb 10, 2016)

Here is a better picture of the simple Aluminum extrusions. In this case my 10' 2 X 4's were a little short. But is gives you an idea of how it works.


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## Quietfly (Feb 10, 2016)

I have 1000.00 total right now for mill, chainsaw bar and chain. 
So that's my budget.
i'm not sure its enough, but its what i have.


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## BigOakAdot (Feb 10, 2016)

My set up is the same as hautions. I would recommended getting a mill around the 36" size. That would allow to mill a little over 30". 

As for the saw I would recommend an older 056, 075, or 076. All have a lot of torque. Should be able to get a pretty solid runner for between 300-600 bucks. There's an 075 for sale with a bar and chain in marylands Craigslist for around 400. Needs some minor work but guy claims it's a solid saw. 

-Andrew


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## hautions11 (Feb 10, 2016)

Some people looked at me sweating over the mill saving some poor tree from firewood like I was nuts. They never looked in my wood shop or saw any finished products. Just knowing where the wood came from makes it more fun.


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## Quietfly (Feb 10, 2016)

Is that s Sub Woofer Cabinet?
Looks nice!!!


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## hautions11 (Feb 10, 2016)

Yes Christmas present for the middle son. That was a few years ago, but he still has it. One of the few cool wood things you can make for a teenager. Made a pair of matching bookshelf speakers to go with it.


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## DonnerParty (Feb 10, 2016)

Bigger is definitely better when you're milling, but torque is the most important factor. Older saws make great torque and can often be had at a reasonable price, but can get expensive and time consuming quick if they have issues. On your budget, BigOakAdot's recommendations of an 056 or bigger are good. I have 30" and 48" rails for my Granberg mill. They are easy to swap out. I milled when I was younger with big saws. On my own, I started milling with a MS440, which was fine in Fir, Pine and Cedar up to 24". Looked for a long time for a reasonably-priced bigger saw, but finally went with a new MS661 instead, as I couldn't find anything older that was priced reasonably around here.

Long bars and chains are expensive, so don't forget to include that. 36" and under is much more reasonable on bar prices and should get you started for what you're talking about.


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## Quietfly (Feb 10, 2016)

I live right next to a Forestry Service, we have mostly maple and beech groves. Theres a good amount of oak and white birch ss well. My end game is to be able to go from log to finished projects. My real issue is moving larger logs. I can take anything I can fit into my Subaru. So Iend up taking smaller stuff and making alot of bowls, trays and candleholders . As well as the occasional jewelry box. Oh and mushrooms. That's how this all started. I carve mushrooms from the logs.


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## DonnerParty (Feb 10, 2016)

Quietfly said:


> I live right next to a Forestry Service, we have mostly maple and beech groves. Theres a good amount of oak and white birch ss well. My end game is to be able to go from log to finished projects. My real issue is moving larger logs. I can take anything I can fit into my Subaru. So Iend up taking smaller stuff and making alot of bowls, trays and candleholders . As well as the occasional jewelry box. Oh and mushrooms. That's how this all started. I carve mushrooms from the logs.



Cool! You can tow a small trailer behind your Subaru. Find an old, small utility trailer frame. You can load slabs right onto the frame and strap them down. I did this behind a small old Toyota pickup when I was younger, but Subarus actually have a decent towing capacity, as well.


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## Quietfly (Feb 10, 2016)

Oh my forester tows great, i tow my 17 ft bass boat with it. The issue is no trailer, and more specifically the wifes mandate of no new toys until after the baby arrives in August.


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## hautions11 (Feb 10, 2016)

I borrowed this from a neighbor for years. Yes minivan!!!!!!!!


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## hautions11 (Feb 10, 2016)

But look at my haul.


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## Shawn Curry (Feb 16, 2016)

hautions11 said:


> They never looked in my wood shop or saw any finished products. Just knowing where the wood came from makes it more fun.



And good luck finding boards that wide anywhere! Is that a Norm Abrams router station I spy? I made one of those myself. I liked the laminate top so much, now I build all my workbench tops and shop jigs with it.

To the OP, I don't have much to add in terms of recommendations, aside from getting something to sharpen your own chains if you don't already. A properly sharpened chain cuts faster, leaves a better finish, and can help reduce the intense load on the saw. They go dull real fast when you're milling, and it's so critical to success that you must learn to do this yourself.


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## Quietfly (Feb 16, 2016)

I have a harbor freight chain sharpener. Im looking into other ones.


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## hautions11 (Feb 16, 2016)

It is not a Norm router station, it is my workbench. It was on old Masonite topped POS, I threw some 3/4 plywood on it, screw nice oak on all edges, laminate over the whole thing, route the oak/laminate for final trim and it makes a real clean surface.


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## Quietfly (Feb 28, 2016)

My first time milling. Had some sassafras...


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## IyaMan (Feb 28, 2016)

Looks good Quietfly. I plan to start milling this year too. Did it cut the way you thought? Any problems or hiccups? And what did you end up choosing for a mill saw and chain?


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## Shawn Curry (Feb 28, 2016)

That's nice looking stuff - big piece too! I've wondered what sass looks like - reminds me of ash. I hear the smell is nicer!


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## Quietfly (Feb 28, 2016)

It smells so good!!!


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## hautions11 (Feb 28, 2016)

One of my favourite woods in the shop, smells awesome!!!


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## hautions11 (Feb 28, 2016)

Ok give them the saw specs


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## Quietfly (Feb 28, 2016)

IyaMan said:


> Looks good Quietfly. I plan to start milling this year too. Did it cut the way you thought? Any problems or hiccups? And what did you end up choosing for a mill saw and chain?


Grandberg mk III 24 inch, stihl 084 with 2 custom bars set up with 3/8 instead of 404. 
It cut better than than i expected. No hiccups yet. Mind you it took all of 15 mins to mill that log.


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## Quietfly (Feb 28, 2016)




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## BigOakAdot (Feb 28, 2016)

Good stuff man. Did you recently purchase the 084? Mind me asking what ya payed for her? Oh and post some pics of the set up.

BOA


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## Czech_Made (Feb 29, 2016)

Very nice wood.


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## DTrap (Feb 29, 2016)

Looks great Quietfly. Keep at it.


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## Promac555 (Feb 29, 2016)

Quietfly said:


> Hey Guys,
> I'm just starting out in chainsaw milling, and i'm overwhelmed by the amount of info out there. I've read the milling 101 thread on this site several times over and have attempted to soak up every piece of info i can find on various other reputable, or in-famous boards.
> My main purpose would be to mill small logs no larger than 24 inches, and make boards that are 13 to 15 by how ever long the log would be, to provide me with an abundant "free/cheap" supply of wood for projects.
> 
> ...



Hi Chris - 
Welcome to the world of weird!
I run a 36"Alaskan MK3 on a Husky 372 and I have no worries.
That's a small 70cc motor pushing a long chain and here's a secret - get the auxiliary oiler and be liberal with the lubricant.
A bit of advice:

1. Keep the saw and the bar perfectly clean. I use my air compressor to clean my rig - daily so it's 100% dust free. Don't forget to clean the bar's groove.
2. Go slow - it makes for a cleaner cut. Think a year ahead to when you have to run the boards through a planer.
3. Get the logs off the ground. I use a car jack and 6x6's to raise it up prior to sawing - your back will thank you.
4. Use "stickers" from the same tree to separate your boards as you dry them - that will reduce staining on your valuable boards.

In closing, Chris, making your own projects out of wood - that you milled from a tree is pretty special - good going guy. Be extra nice to your wife...


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## Quietfly (Feb 29, 2016)

Im looking to make an aux oiler next,it's on the list. ... but the list just keeps getting bigger. I mount my logs on a ridgd work table that ive propped up with jack stands, i rarely get logs longer than 28 inches so i cant grunt them up there without an issue. I can't wait till i can use some of my own slabs to make stuff. A solar kiln is also on the list..... lol thanks for the kind words and advice.


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## IyaMan (Mar 1, 2016)

Great tips Promac555. I'm also planning on using a 372 when I start milling, so that's all good to know.

And happy millin' Quietfly! After your first taste, it sounds like you are looking to go further already!


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## Quietfly (Mar 5, 2016)

Just realized in haven't posted a pic of my full setup yet.


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## Quietfly (Mar 5, 2016)

Just sharpened the chain....


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## BobL (Mar 5, 2016)

Quietfly said:


> Just sharpened the chain....


In the photo above it looks like you are running some sort of safety chain?
It won't matter on smaller diameter logs but just in case you are going to buy more chain for wider logs a standard chain will be better at clearing sawdust


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## Quietfly (Mar 5, 2016)

Honestly not sure what type of chain it is, it came with the saw and since nose and sprocket has been switched to run 3/8s i haven't picked up more chain yet. It cuts everything really well, so i cant complain.


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## CRtimberwolf (Mar 6, 2016)

Just got my 36" mill. I have it on a piped and ported 660 that I took the oversized falling dawgs off of.
Cut my first slabs yesterday off of this 31"×66" doug fir.


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## hautions11 (Mar 6, 2016)

Looks awesome!!!!!!!


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## Quietfly (Mar 6, 2016)

CRtimberwolf said:


> Just got my 36" mill. I have it on a piped and ported 660 that I took the oversized falling dawgs off of.
> Cut my first slabs yesterday off of this 31"×66" doug fir. View attachment 490260
> View attachment 490262
> 
> View attachment 490263


Looks great!


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## hautions11 (Mar 6, 2016)

I do not see a pipe? It must sound mean!


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## CRtimberwolf (Mar 6, 2016)

hautions11 said:


> I do not see a pipe? It must sound mean!


Not really piped. Triple ported though.


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## hautions11 (Mar 7, 2016)

Ahhhhh, that makes sense. I just put one of those light bars on my 064/066 hybrid. I really like them.


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## CRtimberwolf (Mar 7, 2016)

Ya I fall big trees on the west coast. Run around the hillside with a 36" bar all day everyday. Ilove em


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## Garrit (Nov 23, 2016)

NICE!!!


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## 808fish (Nov 30, 2016)

Aloha,
Just saw your post. 
One essential thing to add to your mill is a winch. Best $50 I've ever spent. Get a cheap one and add a Kevlar line. The line won't stretch and is tough. It makes cutting sooooo much easier. I added a little pulley to the end of the ladder with a clip. 

This and please invest in anti vibration gloves. They're cheap and really will save your hands.


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## Garrit (Nov 30, 2016)

Great idea with the gloves


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## BobL (Nov 30, 2016)

Anti vibe gloves are usually only needed running older saws and if you hold onto the saw.
I noticed a big reduction in vibe just going from the the "white finger" tingling and jelly forearm 076, to the 880.
Even on the 076, when I setup a remote (motor cycle) throttle on the wrap handle I found I no longer suffered from "white finger" so no longer needed the anti vibe gloves.
The other thing that reduces vibe is to use new handles covered with soft rubber mountain bike handle grips.


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## Garrit (Nov 30, 2016)

Thank you! Budget only allows for oldies.


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## 808fish (Nov 30, 2016)

BobL said:


> Anti vibe gloves are usually only needed running older saws and if you hold onto the saw.
> I noticed a big reduction in vibe just going from the the "white finger" tingling and jelly forearm 076, to the 880.
> Even on the 076, when I setup a remote (motor cycle) throttle on the wrap handle I found I no longer suffered from "white finger" so no longer needed the anti vibe gloves.
> The other thing that reduces vibe is to use new handles covered with soft rubber mountain bike handle grips.
> ...



I need to set up a remote throttle. Been on my to do list for a long time. 
My 084/088's do have a lot less vibe, but my 090's just cut better here in Hawaii on any exotic hardwood over 30" wide.


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## Trx250r180 (Nov 30, 2016)

My Norwood came with remote throttle ,slick little setup .Not sure if they sell it seperate or not .


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## SeMoTony (Dec 24, 2016)

hautions11 said:


> Some people looked at me sweating over the mill saving some poor tree from firewood like I was nuts. They never looked in my wood shop or saw any finished products. Just knowing where the wood came from makes it more fun.


Good looking 1/4 sawn oak and used handsomely as well.


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## SeMoTony (Dec 24, 2016)

Quietfly said:


> Oh my forester tows great, i tow my 17 ft bass boat with it. The issue is no trailer, and more specifically the wifes mandate of no new toys until after the baby arrives in August.





Quietfly said:


> Grandberg mk III 24 inch, stihl 084 with 2 custom bars set up with 3/8 instead of 404.
> It cut better than than i expected. No hiccups yet. Mind you it took all of 15 mins to mill that log.


That 084 a good choice,3/8 chain helps get more from saw than w/.404 . Good looking cuts. Quietfly check my avatar. 60" bar on 460 running square chisel skip to keep from wearing out PH in that 1 cut. Ash stump. The beauty that shows up is just amazing to me. Mill safe


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