# Buying new MS660 What bar to get?



## S Tebo (Apr 5, 2013)

Gentlemen ( I use the term lightly!), Getting ready to buy a new Stihl 660 to cut some 4-6 ft trees for my small firewood business. Plan to do a home muffler mod or send out to MasterMind for a light mod as soon as I get it. What bar length do you all recommend- 25" or 36"? I really could use the extra length bar, but don't want a bogging saw. From what I have seen with my 028 & MS310- as long as its been muffler modded, extra bar length is not an issue. They will run as strong or stronger with the longer bars as the short ones after the mod. Opinions?... Thanks, Scott


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Apr 6, 2013)

This has to be some kind of joke. But ok, my advice is buy some PPE and get both hands on the saw.


----------



## S Tebo (Apr 6, 2013)

TheJollyLogger said:


> This has to be some kind of joke. But ok, my advice is buy some PPE and get both hands on the saw.



What's the point of having a " professional " forum if someone asks a legitimate question about a $1,200. Professional saw set up and gets a dumb ass response like yours?


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Apr 6, 2013)

Did you read the introduction to the forum? 

"This Forum is for experienced tree climbers. Ask beginner or new to the business questions in the Arborist 101 Forum. Visit our forum sponsor#here."

Figured you were trolling. So my answer would by it depends on how big a tree I'm blockin down. Up to 30 inches or so, I'd rather they sent me up a 25. If I'm blocking out a spar thats over 30 inches, I'll put up with that damn 36 hanging off my saddle.

A 660 pulls a 36 just fine, but I prefer the balance with a 25.


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Apr 6, 2013)

And my original advice still stands


----------



## S Tebo (Apr 6, 2013)

TheJollyLogger said:


> And my original advice still stands



Thanks for the honest advise. I've been cutting trees on a farm since I was 8 and I'm now 43. Doesn't make much sense to ask beginners a question about a saw set up that they are never going to buy much less any combo that they have run. I don't climb for a living (never heard of that being a requirement to be a serious/professional wood business owner) I just cut 20-30 cords a year (standing trees from the ground) to sell for extra income for the family. The whole point is to share advise among each other from lesions learned the hard way. I did not want to waste $250. on a bar & chain set up it its not a good one- hence ask people in the industry who have probably tried/used it already. Don't be so high and mighty on your pedestal-


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Apr 6, 2013)

So post in the chainsaw or firewood forum, and they'll give you the same advice on ppe. I've been known to cut without ppe, but I sure aint goin to post a pic of it in this forum, or my brothhers will bust me, and rightfully so. The pro's that trained me never let me slide, for a reason. Good luck with your 660 still my favorite climbing saw, cause when they send it up to me it means I'm usually almost done.


----------



## timberland ts (Apr 6, 2013)

32" still plenty of power cut any thing you need. Word of advise dont post something here unless you can take some chop busting.


----------



## Muffler Bearing (Apr 6, 2013)

I run a 25" on my 660 90% of the time, with a 36" for last cuts if needed.

I wood buy both a 25 & 36".

However if I was limited to just one than it wood be either a 28" or 32".


Which county in MD are you in ? I'm in Talbot.


----------



## 4x4American (Apr 6, 2013)

my 066 usually wears a 36" bar, sometimes 32"... but then again I have other saws for other bar lengths, 461 wears 28" sometimes 32", 045 wears 28", 041 wears 16 inch, 362 wears 20", 346 wears 18", etc etc. So when I have the 066 out it's cause I need the 36" bar. When I bought my 066 it came with a 25" bar, and when I bought my 362 it came with 25" bar, funny thing is both 25" bars sit on the shelf. I ran the 25" on the 362 for a long while til I switched it to a 20" it pulls a 20" much better. If I need something that the 20" cant handle I use a 70cc class saw with a 28" bar and I feel that's the way to go. Something bout a 70cc saw with a 28" bar, they just work so well together. 461 handles the 32" bar pretty good too, and the 461 is stock.


----------



## S Tebo (Apr 6, 2013)

Muffler Bearing said:


> I run a 25" on my 660 90% of the time, with a 36" for last cuts if needed.
> 
> I wood buy both a 25 & 36".
> 
> ...



Thank you for the reply & advise, also I sent you a PM. Scott


----------



## S Tebo (Apr 6, 2013)

4x4American said:


> my 066 usually wears a 36" bar, sometimes 32"... but then again I have other saws for other bar lengths, 461 wears 28" sometimes 32", 045 wears 28", 041 wears 16 inch, 362 wears 20", 346 wears 18", etc etc. So when I have the 066 out it's cause I need the 36" bar. When I bought my 066 it came with a 25" bar, and when I bought my 362 it came with 25" bar, funny thing is both 25" bars sit on the shelf. I ran the 25" on the 362 for a long while til I switched it to a 20" it pulls a 20" much better. If I need something that the 20" cant handle I use a 70cc class saw with a 28" bar and I feel that's the way to go. Something bout a 70cc saw with a 28" bar, they just work so well together. 461 handles the 32" bar pretty good too, and the 461 is stock.



This is exactly the kind of feedback & advise I was looking for- thank you for the info!
Be safe, Scott


----------



## mitch95100 (Apr 6, 2013)

View attachment 288624


Just curoius as to why a certain member said to put both hands on the saw??
IMHO- He has both hands on the saw...


----------



## redoakneck (Apr 6, 2013)

If you haven't bought the 660 yet I would advise you get the R model because it has a better oiler for the 36" bar. If you need the high output oiler on a standard 660, lakeside53 did a nice tutorial on the mod. A longer bar can cut shorter wood, a shorter bar can not cut longer wood. I would get a 36 and a 24/25". Most firewooders I know don't go for 4' diameter trees, too hard to process.


----------



## S Tebo (Apr 6, 2013)

redoakneck said:


> If you haven't bought the 660 yet I would advise you get the R model because it has a better oiler for the 36" bar. If you need the high output oiler on a standard 660, lakeside53 did a nice tutorial on the mod. A longer bar can cut shorter wood, a shorter bar can not cut longer wood. I would get a 36 and a 24/25". Most firewooders I know don't go for 4' diameter trees, too hard to process.



Thanks for the advise- really appreciate it! Agree with you 100% on the size of the wood- pain in the ass to work with- I even had to fabricate a special platform table for my splitter just to be able to rotate the wood, even when sliced down to 12-14" thick pieces. But where I live there are noting but big old 3-6 ft oak & hickory trees that have blown down and or died of infestation and neighbors with decent acreage have been offering them for free. Hard to turn down free money so to speak. Thanks, again, Scott


----------



## Zale (Apr 6, 2013)

Get both. Don't limit yourself.


----------



## B Harrison (Apr 6, 2013)

Probably wouldn't hurt to buy 2 of them and keep the 25" on one for blocking regular wood under 36" and then you can get the 36" bar out when you have a bigger tree to block up. 

If i am cutting a lot of wood I will use a 346 for everything, it cuts big wood a little slower, but I can cut longer on a tank and work longer before I have to stop and stretch. 

660 is a big heavy saw, I wouldn't want to have one out at all if 461 would work, and for 4' firewood a 461 will do it just right with a 28" bar.


----------



## TreeAce (Apr 6, 2013)

When I bought my 660 I grabbed a 25 n a 32 inch for it. I planned on keeping the 25 on it most of the time. Hasn't worked out that way though. I just keep the 32 on it all the time now. I also have a 460 with a 25 inch and that's a great saw/bar combo. I think a 32 fits a 660 just right. But I am doing residential tree service not so much with firewood in mind. Although I do cut an awful lot of wood into "firewood length" lol. I agree with a past post about not getting crazy with the bar length because who wants to deal with those large rounds with the splitting.


----------



## bigbluram (Apr 6, 2013)

My 660 wears a 36 all the time unless I really need a good smile then ill go to a 20 and 8 or 9 pin rim ! I usually run the 25 on my 038 mag, its dead nuts reliable and plenty fast for most tasks. If I were you I'd get the 660 r with a 36... Add a 25 or 28 later if you want...


----------



## 4x4American (Apr 6, 2013)

S Tebo said:


> This is exactly the kind of feedback & advise I was looking for- thank you for the info!
> Be safe, Scott



Hey glad I could help! I would highly recommend getting the R model 660 if you haven't committed to a half wrap 660 yet. One day I will own one, but for now the 066 is doing me well, my plan is to get a Weber customs full wrap for it and send it to mastermind and while he's in her private parts ticklin them I'm gonna see if he'll put me on a HO oiler. But anyways yea the R model is only like $40 more I think, maybe $60 but well worth the extra money. My 461 is an R model and even though I went through hell and back with the Stihl dealer and distributor to get it here after a months wait I am very happy I waited. (used to be couldn't get an R model on the east coast I guess, I seen some signs in different shops after I bought my 461r announcing that you can now buy R model Stihl's on the east coast). The R model means you get: Large felling dogs (they act like a kickstand for the bar too, on flat, even ground, your 36" bar will not be able to roll forward and hit the ground, on the regular 660s the dogs are made for nose diving. Also the felling dogs are perfect for holding the saw in wood. my favorite thing is to rev up the saw and kinda slam it down into a tree and the chain will shoot it forward and the felling dogs will grab and hold your saw there forever until you pull it out.) ok next- HO bar oiler (oils way better), large clutch cover and oversized mud flap deal thing (great for firewooding because if you noodle logs in half the noodles dont clog up in there as easily i've noticed with the larger clutch cover), 3/4 wrap handle (I dont know why half wraps are even an option, once you get a 3/4 or full wrap you wont wanna go back), and I think that's all.


----------



## Tree Pig (Apr 6, 2013)

He is right about the ppe... though you do have two hands on the saw. Many of the members who regularly participate in the arborist forum will always point out ppe short falls. In general it is for the good of everyone. Being safe even if it means saving your eyes and putting some cheap glasses on is a PITA sometimes but not only does it protect you, but it also protects the image of our business. People see you cutting with all your ppe on and they perceive you as professional. Even if you are just in the firewood business you are (sadly in many cases) lumped in with professional tree care people. Many of the tree care pro's of old have already done enough damage to the image, we dont need any help from the guys selling firewood for a couple cases of beer. 

with that said I have both for a 660 which is run with the stihl duel port muffler and handles the 36 fine in most wood. Though 95% of the time I have just my 25 on and the 36 only comes out when I really need it. Usually just for flush cutting large stumps that I want to have one good clean cut straight across.


----------



## TreeAce (Apr 6, 2013)

Full wrap not so great for flushing stumps. If your into that.


----------



## PassionForTrees (Apr 6, 2013)

I have always run my 66 with a 460 and 361 and use each saw for it's purpose. my 66 has ( sorry still in the old language ) my ms660 I use a 32 inch bar mainly due to not wanting to be really working the saw as I do bring my rakers down and am blowing chips not dust. when I have other stuff that is just not big enough and thats the most of the time use, I use my ms 460 or now my ms 441c ( favorite saw now ) when im cutting the smaller stuff, the ms 361 comes out and that is still a great saw for alot of cutting. :msp_sneaky: I also run skip chain on all of the saws. Listen if you get the right saw for your needs, you can always jump up or down on bar sizes to get a feel of what YOU like. Just be real carefull with all of the saws as they should all be respected the same even the super sharp hand saws will bite ya bad! That's just my 2 cents . I really LOVE the 32 " on the 660. as I could never imagine running anything smaller ?? that's just crazy man you will have to wear shin guards all the time pulling the wood into your shins hard! LOL Be safe man!! wear those Chaps! watch out for the tip of the saw hitting any other wood when your not expecting it that saw will come right up so fast have your thumb all the way around the handle and a good firm grip at all times. Youll be fine!


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Apr 6, 2013)

Tree Pig said:


> He is right about the ppe... though you do have two hands on the saw. Many of the members who regularly participate in the arborist forum will always point out ppe short falls. In general it is for the good of everyone. Being safe even if it means saving your eyes and putting some cheap glasses on is a PITA sometimes but not only does it protect you, but it also protects the image of our business. People see you cutting with all your ppe on and they perceive you as professional. Even if you are just in the firewood business you are (sadly in many cases) lumped in with professional tree care people. Many of the tree care pro's of old have already done enough damage to the image, we dont need any help from the guys selling firewood for a couple cases of beer.
> 
> with that said I have both for a 660 which is run with the stihl duel port muffler and handles the 36 fine in most wood. Though 95% of the time I have just my 25 on and the 36 only comes out when I really need it. Usually just for flush cutting large stumps that I want to have one good clean cut straight across.



You're right, pig, I couldn't make out the second hand with all those chips flying into his unprotected face. My bad


----------



## mikewhite85 (Apr 7, 2013)

Buy Both though you will use the 25" most of the time. On occasion the 36" will be really handy.

They are also not as expensive as you think. This guy on ebay is wicked cheap. I have bought a lot of chain from him

36" Oregon Chainsaw Pro Guide Bar 1 Chain Stihl MS 460 041 044 046 066 MS361 | eBay


----------



## Stayalert (Apr 7, 2013)

Been running my 660 predominantly with the 25" bar. I have a 36" bar for occasional ripping of slabs.....Love the 660 with the 25" bar though....


----------



## BlackOakTreeServ (Apr 7, 2013)

TheJollyLogger said:


> Did you read the introduction to the forum?
> 
> "This Forum is for experienced tree climbers. Ask beginner or new to the business questions in the Arborist 101 Forum. Visit our forum sponsor#here."
> 
> ...



Jolly, this IS the Arborist 101 forum...oh well...lol


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Apr 7, 2013)

woodsman44 said:


> Jolly, this IS the Arborist 101 forum...oh well...lol



He posted in the climbers forum and the mod moved it here.


----------



## BlackOakTreeServ (Apr 7, 2013)

TheJollyLogger said:


> He posted in the climbers forum and the mod moved it here.



oops, my bad!


----------



## DavdH (Apr 7, 2013)

36" .404 ful skip chisel chain. If I had big wood id get a warrior mill for my 660.


----------



## old_soul (Apr 7, 2013)

Tried several lengths on the 660, I think my favorite for firewood is the 28 inch bar. Good balance, weight

The saw will pull 36 inch bar fine but I really notice the extra weight hanging out front at the end of the day. 

We cut most of our wood out of piles so I don't always like the extra length, especially if its smaller rounds.

But for something like your picture, I'd slap on the 36 and cut everything from one side


----------



## ncsawguy (Apr 8, 2013)

i just bought a 660 about two months ago. i got a stihl dp muffler and a 28" bar with it. im not a professional but enjoy using it. i got a good dealer around here. but heres my theory. i would get the biggest bar i could use. you loose a couple of inches due to spike. just somethig to think about. bigger bar only ad a little cash. smaller bar cheaper when you buy it alone. my dealer also give chains half price with a new saw. i also got the ceramic chain roller$8.bumper strip for mine.$14, forr mine i have run but about 7 or eight tanks with mine but getting stronger with each tank. i also might try to get an r version with the oiler. if you get one make shure you adjust the oiler. on my it was set very low from the factory. i hope this helps. sooner or later i will get a 32 inch bar for it. which i think would be about my max. since you loose a couple due to spike. anything smaller i use my 044 for.


----------



## bootboy (Apr 8, 2013)

28"-30" sugihara! Booyah


----------



## S Tebo (Apr 8, 2013)

bootboy said:


> 28"-30" sugihara! Booyah




Everyone-
Sorry it took me a few days to get this reply out to everyone who responded to me. I wanted to say Thank You all very much for the info- it was exactly what I was looking for. Maybe I should wear my PPE while posting and reading on Arborist- you guys are dangerous with words! Sorry, could not help myself. Good news is I put all of your advise to use and with the help of two EXTREEMLY COOL (you know who you are) members, I was able to try out both a MS460 Mag & MS660 back to back. Everything that was said made complete sense, from the weight to the fuel to the bar pros and cons. In the end, I could not choose between them- so I'm buying them both! The set up's I'm ending up with are: MS460 Mag w/25" bar in Stock form & 066 w/32" bar that has been completely set up with all the goodies. I plan to muffler mod the 460 (& maybe send it to Randy for a port job too) and simply to buy a 36" for the 066 for the odd occasion when the 32 won't quite reach/finish (but it will wear the 32 normally). So, now I will have just the right saw to reach for every time (170, 250, 028, 310, 460 & 066). BTW- I work in QA/QC Training, Quality Control and Safety for a living- so even though its not readily apparent in the pic I posted, I ALWAYS cut with two hands on the saws, I am wearing ANSI rated clear full wrap 
glasses with shatterproof lenses, 3M yellow Music Man/sound canceling headphones that have a better db cut rating than the (4 pairs) of Stihl heaphones that I also own (one of which also has the flip-down full mesh face shield), steel toe work boots and Kevlar gloves. And I wear this gear religiously every time I cut. The camo hat and fatigues just seem to go hand in hand with chainsaws! I have been thinking of investing in a pair of chaps (they are just so damn expensive- but cheaper than stitches and lost limbs- I know)... Hey, seriously, thank you all again for everything. Scott


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Apr 8, 2013)

S Tebo said:


> Everyone-
> Sorry it took me a few days to get this reply out to everyone who responded to me. I wanted to say Thank You all very much for the info- it was exactly what I was looking for. Maybe I should wear my PPE while posting and reading on Arborist- you guys are dangerous with words! Sorry, could not help myself. Good news is I put all of your advise to use and with the help of two EXTREEMLY COOL (you know who you are) members, I was able to try out both a MS460 Mag & MS660 back to back. Everything that was said made complete sense, from the weight to the fuel to the bar pros and cons. In the end, I could not choose between them- so I'm buying them both! The set up's I'm ending up with are: MS460 Mag w/25" bar in Stock form & 066 w/32" bar that has been completely set up with all the goodies. I plan to muffler mod the 460 (& maybe send it to Randy for a port job too) and simply to buy a 36" for the 066 for the odd occasion when the 32 won't quite reach/finish (but it will wear the 32 normally). So, now I will have just the right saw to reach for every time (170, 250, 028, 310, 460 & 066). BTW- I work in QA/QC Training, Quality Control and Safety for a living- so even though its not readily apparent in the pic I posted, I ALWAYS cut with two hands on the saws, I am wearing ANSI rated clear full wrap
> glasses with shatterproof lenses, 3M yellow Music Man/sound canceling headphones that have a better db cut rating than the (4 pairs) of Stihl heaphones that I also own (one of which also has the flip-down full mesh face shield), steel toe work boots and Kevlar gloves. And I wear this gear religiously every time I cut. The camo hat and fatigues just seem to go hand in hand with chainsaws! I have been thinking of investing in a pair of chaps (they are just so damn expensive- but cheaper than stitches and lost limbs- I know)... Hey, seriously, thank you all again for everything. Scott



Hey Scott, glad you got it figured out, and I didn' t mean to come down on ya that hard. At the time I was climbing a tree for my dad in a pair of shorts and flipflops, one handing my 200 in one hand and texting with the other, while I was sipping a rum and coke out of my camelback. Pics to follow...

Seriously, we try to keep each other safe, and sometimes it seems harsh, but this is an unforgiving business. Iwelcome the critiques my brothers give me because it keeps me cuttin safe. Congrats on the 660, one of the best saws ever made ( but a pig in the tree) Jeff


----------



## S Tebo (Apr 9, 2013)

TheJollyLogger said:


> Hey Scott, glad you got it figured out, and I didn' t mean to come down on ya that hard. At the time I was climbing a tree for my dad in a pair of shorts and flipflops, one handing my 200 in one hand and texting with the other, while I was sipping a rum and coke out of my camelback. Pics to follow...
> 
> Seriously, we try to keep each other safe, and sometimes it seems harsh, but this is an unforgiving business. Iwelcome the critiques my brothers give me because it keeps me cuttin safe. Congrats on the 660, one of the best saws ever made ( but a pig in the tree) Jeff



Jeff,
Thanks for the reply- very cool of you to do so. It was not my intention to waste anyone's time on the climbing forum- actually being a new member, and not posting much prior (they were on the 101 & saw forums) I did not really catch the "climbing" focus- just keyed in on the "we cut for a living" nature of that forum. I looked at the number of posts and the amount of people logged on the various other forums and chose the one that had higher numbers than all of the other forums combined. Also, I figured with the spec of saw in question- that professionals would be the best/most applicable to ask. Lastly & honestly, I did not really think that professionals would really be eager to take the time to be reading through the 101 site looking for questions to answer for the fun of it either. I will try to be a little more thick skinned as well!
Be safe up there & Thanx, Scott


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Apr 9, 2013)

S Tebo said:


> Jeff,
> Thanks for the reply- very cool of you to do so. It was not my intention to waste anyone's time on the climbing forum- actually being a new member, and not posting much prior (they were on the 101 & saw forums) I did not really catch the "climbing" focus- just keyed in on the "we cut for a living" nature of that forum. I looked at the number of posts and the amount of people logged on the various other forums and chose the one that had higher numbers than all of the other forums combined. Also, I figured with the spec of saw in question- that professionals would be the best/most applicable to ask. Lastly & honestly, I did not really think that professionals would really be eager to take the time to be reading through the 101 site looking for questions to answer for the fun of it either. I will try to be a little more thick skinned as well!
> Be safe up there & Thanx, Scott



No worries, and yes the members here are great about responding to questions in any forum. Btw, if you really want to have fun, toss a 20 on that 660, go help your buddy saturday, don't let him get a good look at the saw' and start rippin through the small stuff.


----------

