# Best Splitting Maul ??



## Travis041 (Jun 25, 2014)

I recently got a wood stove for our house and have been out cutting a bunch of fire wood. I got a fiber glass handle 8 lb maul from Homedepot and I am able to split about 3 cords before I break it. I am on my second one and already see that it will be gone in another cord. I am not banging the handle, just using it normal. I was thinking of getting the all steel 15 lb maul but think that will tear up my arm with vibration. So I might go wood handle and just get replacement handles. I don't remember going through wood handles as much as the fiberglass ones. Problem with the fiber glass is I cant just replace the handle. I cant afford a splitter right now and I don't mind hand splitting. Anyways need something that will LAST. Anyone have any suggestions? What works for you?


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## svk (Jun 25, 2014)

First vote for Fiskars X27


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## Travis041 (Jun 25, 2014)

Thank you svk. 
I just looked at the reviews and specs. I think this might work. 
And Lifetime Warranty nice. Price isn't to bad either. 
Anyone else want to chime in before I order it lol.


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## brewmonster (Jun 25, 2014)

How do you manage to break fiberglass handles? I've used an 8# maul for the last several years to split maybe 20 cords and, though it did come loose from the head, the fiberglass handle is still fine. I epoxied it back onto the head and am still using it. Something doesn't sound right.
As for the Fiskars, it is vastly over-rated. Good only for easy stuff.


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## Travis041 (Jun 26, 2014)

It might be the Brand we carry. I work at the store I got it at and have had a lot of them returned. And I was asking the same question. Decided to give it a try since it was right there. And I had the same problem = 3 cord busted head and the stem that runs through the handle pulling out. The brand we carry is called Rockforge and well it does have a lot of bad reviews - here is a link from anouther site - http://www.homedepot.com/p/ROCKFORGE-8-lb-Maul-with-33-in-Fiberglass-Handle-GXX-440-FGH/202520554

What brand do you use Brewmonster? I do like the lifetime warranty idea on the x27 tho


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## Ronaldo (Jun 26, 2014)

I have the x25 Fiskars and my bro has an x27, both have been good tools for us. My brothers x27 did break(handle up by the head) this last winter on a very cold day splitting some oak. Fiskars warranty is good as they sent him a new one after sending them a pic via e-mail. They are not miracle tools but i think they work better than my 8 lbs. maul for most wood and they definetely dont tire me out as much as heavier mauls.
Do a search on Fiskars on this site and you will find more info than youve got time to read.


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## CTYank (Jun 26, 2014)

A vote for Wetterlings or Hultafors (Husqvarna) 5.5 lb mauls. Excellent materials and design. And you can use the poll as a hammer. Less $ spent on marketing.

Each of us has an optimum head-weight. For me fiskars is way too light, 8 lb way too heavy for best effect. ~5 lb. is just right.


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## Ash_403 (Jun 26, 2014)

I've split around 10 cords of wood over the years with my Tru-Temper brand 8# maul. It does a decent job. The handle is just ever so slightly loose at the maul head now.
I purchased the X27 last Spring. I really don't care for it. As brewmonster says, _"As for the Fiskars, it is vastly over-rated. Good only for easy stuff. _"
In my case, I would have to 100% agree.
Sometimes I get the X27 out with my 8# maul and give the X27 a try again. I'll vary the rounds, and diameters, straight grain, not so straight... etc. It really is only useful in the nice, straight grained, easy to split species.
So, it doesn't get much use by me.

Best of luck.


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## MontanaResident (Jun 26, 2014)

svk said:


> First vote for Fiskars X27


 
Exactly. I have not used my splitting maul since I picked up a fiskars last year.


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## brewmonster (Jun 26, 2014)

What brand do you use Brewmonster?

True Temper. Sold at Lowe's, I think.


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## CTYank (Jun 26, 2014)

Anybody used a Council Tools maul?


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## mallardman (Jun 26, 2014)

Personally I don't like mauls or axes with plastic/fiberglass handles. That includes fiskars. Eventually all handles go bad even if you never over strike. I prefer a wood handle tool so the handle can be replaced. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## zogger (Jun 26, 2014)

I would not like being stuck with one tool to hand split wood. Nope. Same with saws, I want more than one.

I have and use 8lb generic maul from TSC I believe, a fiskars original supersplitter (favorite by far), a husky/wetterlings (needs center ridge grinding off and reshaping so it doesn't stick in the wood), and a sledge and steel wedges. I use all of the above, plus noodling on difficult crotches, etc. 

I don't struggle with rounds, they split easy or they don't, I keep going through a pile and push off to the side the difficult ones, they get noodled at the end. 

There needs to be like a monster wedge, something *big* that will go right down through a 16 inch round. I hates getting wedges stuck. The head needs to be wider than a sledge hammer head, so you can keep smacking it good. Like a ten lb wedge. 

I have yet to see for sale an honest good super wedge, just shorties that have the potential to leave you with lbs of steel stuck in a round.

This is why I noodle, I get to anything I know from experience and a fast test strike with a maul, etc, that will be gnarly, I would rather spend five cents mix fuel to deal with it, rather than beating myself up and destroying tools..

I tried a monster maul way back when they first came out, no thanks. I know they will split wood, but they are ridiculous stupid heavy and dangerous and vibrate your hands bad.

If I had to pick one, fiskars. But like I said, I use them all.


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## Travis041 (Jun 26, 2014)

I have come to a decision I am taking back the Rockforge junk axe and maul I got and ordering the Fiskars x27 but like you said Zogger I am not going to limit myself to one axe/maul. I am also going to get a second maul later down the road probably a hickory wood handle American made 8lb maul for when I need a little more weight. 

Speaking of weight I cant find clear info on the x27s weight. Some sites say 4.5 and others say 6.3 - I hope it is the 6.3 personally. Anyone know did they up the weight of the x27?

Figured going with the Fiskars x27 since that is the only other maul/axe they have available at the store. If they had true temper I may of had to try trading out for that one. Thank you everyone for your help. Hopefully I can get back to splitting here soon.


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## WoodTick007 (Jun 26, 2014)

It really does't matter 6lb....8lb....Home Depot....Lowes...wood handle.....fiberglass handle. In my humble opinion, the best splitting maul is one being swung by someone other than me. YUP
AND, before a million of you cry about how thats not true...or what are you a know it all..... this is just "MY" opinion. So, get over it.


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## Whitespider (Jun 26, 2014)

Fiberglass/synthetic handles do not belong on striking tools... they reduce the power transmitted to the striking head and send way more vibration into the hands, arms and shoulders. The hollow Fiskars handle is a bit of an exception to that; not perfect but much better than a solid synthetic. The problem with the Fiskars is it ain't designed for serious splitting... it's an ax, not a maul, and will not split large tough rounds like a maul. I'd much rather swing an 8# maul once than a 4# ax two, three, four or more times. I have a Fiskars... it's only used on the easy-to-split stuff.
*


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## zogger (Jun 26, 2014)

Travis041 said:


> I have come to a decision I am taking back the Rockforge junk axe and maul I got and ordering the Fiskars x27 but like you said Zogger I am not going to limit myself to one axe/maul. I am also going to get a second maul later down the road probably a hickory wood handle American made 8lb maul for when I need a little more weight.
> 
> Speaking of weight I cant find clear info on the x27s weight. Some sites say 4.5 and others say 6.3 - I hope it is the 6.3 personally. Anyone know did they up the weight of the x27?
> 
> Figured going with the Fiskars x27 since that is the only other maul/axe they have available at the store. If they had true temper I may of had to try trading out for that one. Thank you everyone for your help. Hopefully I can get back to splitting here soon.



AFAIK it is 4.5 lb head. OK, fiskars works with *speed* and reading the wood and accuracy. It isn't a big heavy maul. It's a different swing, and it will take a bit to get the correct muscle memory to use one well. I keep mine slicked up with some teflon spray, because the factory coating wears off eventually. (You can use the same spray on all your wood splitting stuff if ya want, keeps them from sticking in the wood and definitely helps with splitting.)

I have split up to a 36" round before with just the fiskars, I work around the outside to the middle, but I have busted them conventionally as well, down the middle, just work a crack right across. 

They are sharp!! And work sharp. Touch up the edge often and keep it outta the dirt. I split inside a tire on a low block whenever I can. This holds the wood there for follow up strikes PLUS can and will save your azz if it blows through a round and heads towards your feet/legs, and this happens to most anyone who has tried one.

You'll like it, happy splitting!


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## Hinerman (Jun 26, 2014)

I have the one on top--BIG OX. 2 thumbs up. A little pricey. Can't imagine breaking it with the metal handle sleeve:

http://www.ochsenkopf.com/en/products/group_articles.html?oe_opt[list_set]=211078,210865,210866


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## CTYank (Jun 26, 2014)

zogger said:


> I would not like being stuck with one tool to hand split wood. Nope. Same with saws, I want more than one.
> 
> I have and use 8lb generic maul from TSC I believe, a fiskars original supersplitter (favorite by far), a husky/wetterlings (*needs center ridge grinding off and reshaping so it doesn't stick in the wood*), and a sledge and steel wedges. I use all of the above, plus noodling on difficult crotches, etc.
> 
> ...



Got me wondering with that. I've found both the 3 kg Mueller and 2.5 kg Wetterlings (indistinguishable from Hultafors-Husqy) mauls very unlikely to get stuck in the wood. Generally, about the time the edge is a little over an inch in, the wood splits. And it goes in pretty readily, depending. In rare cases where the maul doesn't go through (think black birch) it generally will with a couple of hits from another maul. No shrapnel from well-heat-treated steel.

The center ridge of the Wetterlings almost never affects the splitting. If anything, it just keeps guiding the splits apart. I've never felt a temptation to reshape either of these mauls. In fact, I've ground some chubby-cheeked Bradlees mauls to mimic the Mueller. Got that one a few years earlier; its faces are very flat. Those reworked mauls are actually useful now.

With the really big, nasty, forked ones, it's not either-or, split or noodle. For the really hard cases, they go to a separate pile, then later noodled through the cross-fibers maybe a bar's-width deep. Depending, either a few whacks with a maul or a couple of wedges, or both- wedge(s) in one end, maul at the other. Don't need long wedges when they're driven from the side. (Some saws are much better than others at avoiding clogging, including PP5020 and Dolmar PS-6100- all in the design of the clutch cover.)

Like Spidey, I really dislike plastic or lacquered handles. Just don't feel right and raise blisters. Plain or lightly oiled prime hickory ONLY, please. Shiny finishes get sanded or scraped off.


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## stihlaficionado (Jun 26, 2014)

Hinerman said:


> I have the one on top--BIG OX. 2 thumbs up. A little pricey. Can't imagine breaking it with the metal handle sleeve:
> 
> http://www.ochsenkopf.com/en/products/group_articles.html?oe_opt[list_set]=211078,210865,210866



Where did you purchase this? I checked their website but I could not find anything about where to purchase them.


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## Whitespider (Jun 26, 2014)

Oh... and another thing about the Fiskars...
The edge isn't tempered correctly... it's too hard/brittle. The edge chips way too easily; as a result it won't hold a fine honed edge worth sour owl squat.
But hey... what can you expect for something well under 50 bucks?? It ain't like you spent the price of a precision cuttin' tool... my pocket knife cost more than my Fiskars ax.
I can put an edge on my maul that will still shave hair after several dozen swings, the Fiskars becomes a thin blunt edge after just a few swings... because the brittle fine edge has literally chipped/broken away.
The Fiskars ain't magic like believers want it to be... it's just a cheap, mass-produced hunk of steel with a lifetime warranty on the mass-produced, injection-molded handle.
Get a Fiskars if'n ya' want one, it has its uses... but don't forget to pick up a good, hickory-handled maul also.
*


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## Hinerman (Jun 26, 2014)

stihlaficionado said:


> Where did you purchase this? I checked their website but I could not find anything about where to purchase them.


 
FYI, they make the splitting axes and mauls for Stihl. Here are a few choices:

http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...9-Wood-Splitting-Maul-Professional-Big-Ox.axd


http://www.traditionalwoodworker.co...Germany-by-Iltis-Oxhead/productinfo/598-3009/


http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/ox-head-big-ox-splitting-maul.aspx


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## dancan (Jun 26, 2014)

Hey Spidey !!
You right about the Fiskars edge not staying sharp .







I've been driving my X25 in the dirt and rocks all winter and it won't shave worth shyte LOL
Still splits wood though .


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## Thornton (Jun 26, 2014)

Ive been wanting a Granfors Bruks for a couple years but always something else to spend the money on maybe this winter


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## Travis041 (Jun 26, 2014)

Does any one use this one http://www.amestruetemper.com/store/products/detail.aspx?ProductId=2233&LineName=&LineId=72
Not as good as the 100+ dollar ones I am sure. Any opinions on it?


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## MontanaResident (Jun 26, 2014)

There might be something wrong with my Fiskars x27. It's not splitting like it did last year. Bigger rounds, seasoned just 1 year and I'm being challenged. Ordered a 10lb Truper Sledge with a 36" fiber glass handle and a 9" Estwing E-5 splitting wedge. Been thinking about upping my game, this should keep me going for another 10years, where I'll then be 60 and might have to buy a mechanical gas powered splitter.


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## wap13 (Jun 26, 2014)

I didnt read all the comments but my .02...

I own a fiskars x25, fiskars x27, a gransfors bruks splitting maul and wetteringlings splitting maul. Hands down my favorite and what works best for me splitting red oak, hickory, and pretty much any other hard wood you will find in the southeast is the wetterlings.

However I do leave a fiskars in the back of my truck at all times because unlike my wood handled wetteringlings and GB the fiber glass doesnt care about the sun or rain and if someone walks off with it I'm not really out much.


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## CTYank (Jun 26, 2014)

Travis041 said:


> Does any one use this one http://www.amestruetemper.com/store/products/detail.aspx?ProductId=2233&LineName=&LineId=72
> Not as good as the 100+ dollar ones I am sure. Any opinions on it?



Problem is, most of the "bargain" mauls I've seen over the years (and I've a couple) are made of pretty mild (soft) steel and not shaped very well. In fact, instruments of torture. I reshaped a few to mimic an Austrian maul I got 3 yrs back- flattened the previously-convex faces and put an edge on them. Made a very big difference.

Council Tools in NC is getting more into axes and such. Even now sell a maul. Made in USA. Any reviews?
(I really like their "jersey pattern" 3.5 lb head axe. For ~$32, a Best Buy.)

Last I saw, it was possible to buy a Hultafors (Husqy branded) 5.5 lb maul for $60. Total no-brainer over X-whatever (longest) fiskars.


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## CTYank (Jun 26, 2014)

stihlaficionado said:


> Where did you purchase this? I checked their website but I could not find anything about where to purchase them.


Have you tried your friendly local stihl dealer? Stihl mauls are re-branded Ochsenkopf mauls. Selling recently even at local bandit for $80.
Just don't tell them how good a bargain it is.


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## Whitespider (Jun 26, 2014)

dancan said:


> _*Hey Spidey !! You right about the Fiskars edge not staying sharp .
> I've been driving my X25 in the dirt and rocks all winter...*_



L-O-L
I don't recall ever running any of my mauls, axes, or other edged tools into dirt or rocks... I always use a block, stump or piece of belting.
Well... there is one exception... I have a cheap fleet store ax I use for chopping out tree roots and such.
*


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## zogger (Jun 26, 2014)

MontanaResident said:


> There might be something wrong with my Fiskars x27. It's not splitting like it did last year. Bigger rounds, seasoned just 1 year and I'm being challenged. Ordered a 10lb Truper Sledge with a 36" fiber glass handle and a 9" Estwing E-5 splitting wedge. Been thinking about upping my game, this should keep me going for another 10years, where I'll then be 60 and might have to buy a mechanical gas powered splitter.



Sharpen it better and grab a can of spray on teflon. I noticed mine lost some percentage split-ability as the teflon wore off, but cheap spray, back to normal.

And wood is just different, two similar sized red oaks can be vastly different in ease of splitting.

You got ten years to get ahead! Cut and stack twice what you use between now and then, or even just 50% more per year. That's all I am doing right now, just getting ahead.Once you are two years ahead it seems to get easier. I don't know why, just psychological or something. 

Also, cut small and stack small, mix it in. Milk the trees out. Those small rounds that need no splitting really start to add up, it's fast precisely because you skip the splitting step, and all that handling, and it is easy to get them with the smallest saw. I cut down to one inch, no lie...it burns. Right off the tree if I can reach it, up down up down, right on down the branch to the main trunk..it's fast to do once you get used to it And your stacks last longer with the small rounds mixed in, more wood per linear feet of stack.


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## woodchuck357 (Jun 26, 2014)

Travis041 said:


> Does any one use this one http://www.amestruetemper.com/store/products/detail.aspx?ProductId=2233&LineName=&LineId=72
> Not as good as the 100+ dollar ones I am sure. Any opinions on it?


I have one in the truck right now. Grandson bought it and brought it over to have me work it over. I used the angle grinder to thin and extend the bevel, then polished the faces with a little handheld belt grinder, finishing with 240 grit. I just finished splitting bunch of pin oak with it and it did good. I will have to ask the boy if he wants me to put an epoxy swell on the end of the handle, it feels to me like the thing is going to slip out of my hand.
I am of the opinion that the quality of the steel in splitting mauls is relatively unimportant, they are just wedges with handles that allow you to throw them in a controlled manner at a chunk of wood in hopes of wedging the fibers apart. I have an 8 pound wedge that I welded a loop on one side to take an ax eye handle that does a fantastic job! It does the flip with very little help, but doesn't pound wedges for the above mentioned owl do-do.
I have a bunch of different shapes and sizes of mauls, some were expensive when new, some very cheap, the ones that have polished convex faces work best. I can't see any difference in the way they work based on how proud the seller was of them.
The longer the handle the better, Most of the replaced handles on my mauls and axes are 40 inches from my side of the head. Most bought handles are under 36 inches overall, the standard that was set way back when the average logger was under 5 foot 6in tall.


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## zogger (Jun 26, 2014)

woodchuck357 said:


> I have one in the truck right now. Grandson bought it and brought it over to have me work it over. I used the angle grinder to thin and extend the bevel, then polished the faces with a little handheld belt grinder, finishing with 240 grit. I just finished splitting bunch of pin oak with it and it did good. I will have to ask the boy if he wants me to put an epoxy swell on the end of the handle, it feels to me like the thing is going to slip out of my hand.
> I am of the opinion that the quality of the steel in splitting mauls is relatively unimportant, they are just wedges with handles that allow you to throw them in a controlled manner at a chunk of wood in hopes of wedging the fibers apart. I have an 8 pound wedge that I welded a loop on one side to take an ax eye handle that does a fantastic job! It does the flip with very little help, but doesn't pound wedges for the above mentioned owl do-do.
> I have a bunch of different shapes and sizes of mauls, some were expensive when new, some very cheap, the ones that have polished convex faces work best. I can't see any difference in the way they work based on how proud the seller was of them.



You are saying you welded up something kinda similar to a leveraxe? Got a pic or three of it?


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## woodchipper95 (Jun 26, 2014)

CTYank said:


> A vote for Wetterlings or Hultafors (Husqvarna) 5.5 lb mauls. Excellent materials and design. And you can use the poll as a hammer. Less $ spent on marketing.
> 
> Each of us has an optimum head-weight. For me fiskars is way too light, 8 lb way too heavy for best effect. ~5 lb. is just right.



I have a x27 and gransfors bruks splitting maul not sure on weight I'd say 6. They both have a spot in my heart when it comes to splitting. Straight grain=X27 other stuff=maul!


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## svk (Jun 26, 2014)

zogger said:


> You are saying you welded up something kinda similar to a leveraxe? Got a pic or three of it?


No splitting thread is complete without at least one reference to the leveraxe


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## woodchuck357 (Jun 26, 2014)

zogger said:


> You are saying you welded up something kinda similar to a leveraxe? Got a pic or three of it?


I did make an old maul into a thing that worked like a lever ax many years ago, didn't look like it but had a stop on one side and extra weight on the hammer end on the other. 
The wedge was made after another thread about maul steel quality, I was going to just bore a hole thru the wedge but decided that was to much work so I just welded a piece of quarter inch flat stock to one edge of the wide end and put the torch to the strap and bent it around a wet axe eye maul handle, pulled the handle out, put a clamp on to hold the quarter inch thick strap tight to the side of the wedge and welded it in place. I ground the welds smooth, made the cheeks slightly convex where the wedge had a rather blunt taper, and put the handle back in. The handle had to be shaved a little to fit the eye and flattened to fit the wedge side. It was mostly just for show, but it does work well. It doesn't do the flip automatically but it does tend to flip easily in the direction of the wedge side. One day I have to get a camera!
Just for show, I also split using a sharp ax with the rounds setting on concrete, then split similar rounds setting on a 6 inch thick piece of foam mattress material. Folks are surprised when they seem to split the same.


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## woodchuck357 (Jun 27, 2014)

Travis041 said:


> I have come to a decision I am taking back the Rockforge junk axe and maul I got and ordering the Fiskars x27 but like you said Zogger I am not going to limit myself to one axe/maul. I am also going to get a second maul later down the road probably a hickory wood handle American made 8lb maul for when I need a little more weight.
> 
> Speaking of weight I cant find clear info on the x27s weight. Some sites say 4.5 and others say 6.3 - I hope it is the 6.3 personally. Anyone know did they up the weight of the x2


The fiskers head, just for comparison, weighs just a hair over four pounds. Sharpen it once and it will be four! That's actual weight on a very accurate scale.


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## Travis041 (Jun 27, 2014)

Thank you Woodchuck357. On a few websites it says the x27 is 6.3 - so that must be the total weight of the axe. I cant believe all the good reviews on the x27. I am sceptical. I will have to try it. Should be here in a few days. We only have pine around here. And most of the time I wait till it is seasoned. So the x27 should work in my situation. It has to be better than the rockforge. 

My father in law said that he has a few old 8lb maul heads and he would give me one, I just need to get a handle. So that way I will have my x27 axe and a 8lb maul if need. Nice to have at least two. The rockforge axe and maul that I got will both be returned.


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## Whitespider (Jun 27, 2014)

Travis041 said:


> _*My father in law said that he has a few old 8lb maul heads and he would give me one...*_



Old is good... most of them are of fine quality... made when manufactures and their employees took pride in the product turned out.
That said... the handle makes the tool. A bad handle will make a bad tool of even the finest striking head. It ain't necessary to spend a bunch of money on the handle... but you do need to look through the assortment and choose the best of the lot. If you don't know what to look for in a handle, and more importantly if you don't know how to properly hang the head on a new handle, find someone who does and have them help ya' out... hanging the head on a handle ain't difficult, but there is a certain learned art to it. Believe me, you'll hate the tool if'n the head ain't hung correctly.
*


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## Marshy (Jun 27, 2014)

In mind the Fiskar has limitations, just as a heavy 8lb maul. Use the right tool for the job and the work will be easier on you. The Fiskar will split bigger wood than advertised. Length of your rounds and grain type have a large impact on its ability. I have both the Fiskar X-27 and an old 8lb maul. I use the Fiskar for >85% of my splitting (6 cord a year). If I cant split it with the Fiskar I usually can't split it with the 8lb maul either (ok, maybe 50:50 I can), those chunks end up being noodled. In the end I believe you end up doing less work with the lighter Fiskar, just my opinion and no I have not used a fancy $100+ maul from Germany, just your average run of the mill yard sale special cast maul that our grandfathers had at hand.

One other piece of advice is keep the edge sharp by taking a few strokes with a flat file and keep it out of the dirt.


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## MontanaResident (Jun 27, 2014)

dancan said:


> Hey Spidey !!
> You right about the Fiskars edge not staying sharp .
> 
> 
> ...


 
I treat my fiskars and my other axes, like I do my chain. I sharpen it regularly. So far I haven't buggered up my fiskars that bad and have been able to keep it factory sharp with just a stone. My other axes get rough up like that, and lose a lot of metal as I have to spend a fair bit of time with a file.


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## woodchipper95 (Jun 27, 2014)

MontanaResident said:


> I treat my fiskars and my other axes, like I do my chain. I sharpen it regularly. So far I haven't buggered up my fiskars that bad and have been able to keep it factory sharp with just a stone. My other axes get rough up like that, and lose a lot of metal as I have to spend a fair bit of time with a file.



I use a splitting block with two tiers.


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## zogger (Jun 27, 2014)

Travis041 said:


> Thank you Woodchuck357. On a few websites it says the x27 is 6.3 - so that must be the total weight of the axe. I cant believe all the good reviews on the x27. I am sceptical. I will have to try it. Should be here in a few days. We only have pine around here. And most of the time I wait till it is seasoned. So the x27 should work in my situation. It has to be better than the rockforge.
> 
> My father in law said that he has a few old 8lb maul heads and he would give me one, I just need to get a handle. So that way I will have my x27 axe and a 8lb maul if need. Nice to have at least two. The rockforge axe and maul that I got will both be returned.



The pine I have here, fresh cut green, real hard to split, anything I throw at it just bounces off with a splash....shave the bark off, let it sit until cracked and like half the weight, it splits fantastic with the fiskars. Or better, quarter the rounds first, maul or noodle, then let it sit a bit. Once the pine is the least bit dry it splits like a dream (well, crotches still suck, but that is every tree)


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## Heavy26R (Jun 27, 2014)

I like my Wetterlings. My Grandsfor's has a nicer look and shape, but the poll is mushrooming. Wetterlings is as tough as the sledge hammer. Not a scratch on her. I don't like having to pamper my maul. I spend as much time filing the poll as the blade edge on the Grandsfors. Yes I beat the crap out of it, but the Wetterling's poll doesn't have a scratch on it!


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## turnkey4099 (Jun 28, 2014)

zogger said:


> I would not like being stuck with one tool to hand split wood. Nope. Same with saws, I want more than one.
> 
> I have and use 8lb generic maul from TSC I believe, a fiskars original supersplitter (favorite by far), a husky/wetterlings (needs center ridge grinding off and reshaping so it doesn't stick in the wood), and a sledge and steel wedges. I use all of the above, plus noodling on difficult crotches, etc.
> 
> ...



Right on. Any one who tackles a pile of wood to split with only one tool is nuts. My arsenal is about like yours, X27, 6lb maul, 10lb sledge, two steelwedges, hydraulic splitter.

The splitter only sees the hard to split stuff, knots, crotches, twisty stuff. 

X27 is a wonder tool but it is not a miracle and DOES NOT REPLACE A MAUL.

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Jun 28, 2014)

Travis041 said:


> I have come to a decision I am taking back the Rockforge junk axe and maul I got and ordering the Fiskars x27 but like you said Zogger I am not going to limit myself to one axe/maul. I am also going to get a second maul later down the road probably a hickory wood handle American made 8lb maul for when I need a little more weight.
> 
> Speaking of weight I cant find clear info on the x27s weight. Some sites say 4.5 and others say 6.3 - I hope it is the 6.3 personally. Anyone know did they up the weight of the x27?
> 
> Figured going with the Fiskars x27 since that is the only other maul/axe they have available at the store. If they had true temper I may of had to try trading out for that one. Thank you everyone for your help. Hopefully I can get back to splitting here soon.



Pick up a couple "handle savers" - those rubber donuts that fit on your handle. I was going through maul/sledge handles about every 2 years, started using the donuts and haven't replaced a handle in a long time. Even reset the maul handle twice and it is still perfect although it is a bit loose now and due for antoher refit.

Harry K.


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## regulate34 (Jun 28, 2014)

I split 15+ cords a year. I built my self a set of Axes with 1 1/4" sch40 pipe for handles.
8lb maul
3 1/2lb axe
10lb sledge
hatchet

I formed the pipe to fit in the heads. welded them on. Filled the handles with spray expanding foam
No vibrations at all. The maul is on its 6th year and the others on 3yrs.

they split like a dream. After wood season you will have some big arms lol


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## Haywire Haywood (Jun 28, 2014)

regulate34 said:


> Filled the handles with spray expanding foam



Just an FYI, but if it wasn't a two part chemically curing foam, it never set up. Great Stuff type spray foam will turn into a flat goo if sealed up because the solvent in it has to evaporate. Shoot a little into a Zip Lock baggie and see what it does.


On the maul subject, my preference was a 6lb fiberglass handled maul. I could swing it longer without tiring out. Seemed to do as well as my buddy's 8lb but I really felt that extra 2lb. Bought a 15lb monster maul and it just sat there in the shop holding the floor down. I have the older fiscars X with the 28" handle but unless you're short or have a splitting block it's asking for an axe in the foot. I never bought the longer X version because I moved and stopped burning wood unfortunately.

Ian


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## regulate34 (Jun 28, 2014)

Don't matter if it dryed completely or not. The handles have a good solid feeling


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## zogger (Jun 28, 2014)

Haywire Haywood said:


> Just an FYI, but if it wasn't a two part chemically curing foam, it never set up. Great Stuff type spray foam will turn into a flat goo if sealed up because the solvent in it has to evaporate. Shoot a little into a Zip Lock baggie and see what it does.
> 
> 
> On the maul subject, my preference was a 6lb fiberglass handled maul. I could swing it longer without tiring out. Seemed to do as well as my buddy's 8lb but I really felt that extra 2lb. Bought a 15lb monster maul and it just sat there in the shop holding the floor down. I have the older fiscars X with the 28" handle but unless you're short or have a splitting block it's asking for an axe in the foot. I never bought the longer X version because I moved and stopped burning wood unfortunately.
> ...



Pretty funny! That's the fiskars I have and yep, I'm short, double yep, split on a block.

Too bad you can't burn wood for heat, that's the easiest way to at least beat the man on one major bill.

I have basic survival criteria where I will live, must have wood heat for a primary, good garden spot, and two sources of water that are not tied to municipal water.


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## Travis041 (Jul 4, 2014)

Well I just got my X-27 yesterday and got to tell ya first impressions it looks like a Toy.
So far went through half a cord of wood like butter before work, I am Impressed.
I am going to take great care not to be over anything but duff and have a decent splitting block with a tire to alleviate wear on the axe.
For what I am splitting = dry pine. I think this splitting axe will do, just so easy compared to the maul I had, now granted the maul i had was junk.
I still will hook up the old maul head I got from my father in law and just have two. Better to have allot of axes and mauls. 
But I plan on using the x-27 allot, it has a lifetime warranty after all.

Thank you guys for your help, splitting just got easier and more enjoyable


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## dancan (Jul 4, 2014)

I've learned over the winter that if my X25 is not up to the task it's gonna be a workout even with a maul .
I get the best speed and power with a tire and right on the ground and a razor sharp edge is definitely not required YMMV .


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## Rudedog (Jul 4, 2014)

Heavy26R said:


> I like my Wetterlings. My Grandsfor's has a nicer look and shape, but the poll is mushrooming. Wetterlings is as tough as the sledge hammer. Not a scratch on her. I don't like having to pamper my maul. I spend as much time filing the poll as the blade edge on the Grandsfors. Yes I beat the crap out of it, but the Wetterling's poll doesn't have a scratch on it!


I just bought one on your recommendation. I do like it. I got it from a place in Southern Virginia for $127 delivered. I had a $20 off coupon. I found everything you said to be my experience. I have owned a Gransfors for a couple of years now.


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## dancan (Jul 4, 2014)

Daum another splitter that I gotta try lol


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## CTYank (Jul 4, 2014)

Rudedog said:


> I just bought one on your recommendation. I do like it. I got it from a place in Southern Virginia for $127 delivered. I had a $20 off coupon. I found everything you said to be my experience. I have owned a Gransfors for a couple of years now.
> 
> View attachment 357948



The 5.5 lb maul branded for Husqarna sells for ~1/2 of that, a bit north of me. I know, but still like my Wetterlings a lot. And a 6.6 lb Mueller. Both have really excellent metallurgy. Last I saw, best price going on Gransfors maul was around $190, notably more than the $155 my Mueller cost.

A big problem in these discussions is that "maul" to some means a crude iron bludgeon on a handle, and to others means an efficient wood-splitting tool. The latter cost more, and are not to be found in your local big box nor corner hardware store.

Anybody tried Council Tools' (NC) maul yet? Might be a good candidate.


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