# Longwood Duel Fuel Furnace Mark VII Manual



## iowa (Jun 1, 2009)

Does anyone have any experience with setting one of these up. Have a manual or anything. I just picked one up and it is like new. Maybe used a season or had a couple fires built in it. Maybe none. I don't know.

UPDATE: I did a search and found someone on Bobvilla that had the manual. She had taken copies and sent me a PDF file on the entire manual for my exact furnace. 

I have been reading the manual and it is quite interesting. In order for the furnace to work correctly it requires 4-5 foot long pieces of wood. It said you can use slab wood but it needs to be mixed with some pole wood! But hardwoods are the best for burning as it "charcoals" up better. But anyways. It is a dualfuel furnace. Which I just thought that the propain-ng, or fuel oil burner was only used to light the wood or to heat the house when the wood supply was gone as a back-up. WRONG. This furnace is a 0 natural draft furnace. The dampner door is closed at all times, except when loading wood. Or burning only wood when the electricity goes out. The furnace is to use the propane burner to light the wood and keep it "charcoaled" up when you need heat. The coals stay hot and the flue piping stays a constant warm temp. The propane burner is to only run around 5min. to get the coals going and then it shuts off. There is a heat reclaimer just above the main firing chamber to reclaim some heat, but they said it shouldn't be run all the time. Only if it is overloaded and it is too hot. 

I didn't know that the propain HAD to be used on these units in order to work correctly! Now I'm kinda bummed because I want to use 0 propain during the winter months. I guess I'll get it hooked up and see how much propane it does use. It says that it is extremely effecient with the gas and that most of the heat is from the wood. But I'm guessing these units were made in the 80's? I looked at the serial number to see if something resembled a yr. made. The last 2 digits are 71. So that could be the yr. it was made I have no idea. All I know is it is heavy. Crate weight is 550lbs.


----------



## iowa (Jun 2, 2009)

UPDATE with pics !


----------



## CrappieKeith (Jun 3, 2009)

Sounds like a deal.....

Knowing a lot about multi fuel furnaces I can be of some help.
I would say that you can manually light that wood .

The only real bummer about that furnace is that there are no parts available.
You could however like in the burners case put a new burner on it that is still made and has parts with technical service available.

I also see the UL file number which is a good thing.
As a matter of fact it is real close to ours....MH11057...it's only a few digits off.
We started to make our furnces in "74".


Well good luck....I hope she's a great wood burner for you.


----------



## iowa (Jun 3, 2009)

All the parts are there I believe. Except for a few nuts and bolts. I hope the burner works on it also. I have reason to believe that this unit has never had a fire built in it. It has some rust on it from setting out in the environment the last 7 months. But the seller had always kept it indoors.


----------



## Constrictor (Jun 4, 2009)

Awwwww man quit foolin' around with those antiques and just get an EPA certified stove like a Englander NC30 and youll have no troubles, no propane, absolutely no smoke in the house ever, and use less wood! $800 brand new!


----------



## iowa (Jun 4, 2009)

Constrictor said:


> Awwwww man quit foolin' around with those antiques and just get an EPA certified stove like a Englander NC30 and youll have no troubles, no propane, absolutely no smoke in the house ever, and use less wood! $800 brand new!



Can that be hooked up in my basement and blow directly into my existing duct-work? Also will it heat 3000 sq ft house?


----------



## iowa (Jun 4, 2009)

TreeCo said:


> It's a dead dinosaur! Send it to the scrap yard where it belongs.



What's a dead dinosaur?


----------



## iowa (Jun 4, 2009)

TreeCo said:


> That smoke dragon you are trying to resurrect.


It won't work in my house?


----------



## CrappieKeith (Jun 4, 2009)

Easy guys....the guy got a deal....I do know at 1st issue there will be a struggle to find parts but even if it only ran a year the guy makes out.
i do know that they were famous for burner issues due to the high burner placement sooting up.
They also are called longwood because you needed long wood to fill the box to get the burn times you'll need to heat a 3000 s/f house.
That furnace will do the job ,but you'll go through the wood like an OWB does or almost anyway.

As to the "hey get this or that"

A Yukon EagleI wood/oil or wood/gas is the only legal"code" furnace out there and the only true wood/gas that needs 1 flue.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Jun 4, 2009)

TreeCo said:


> Ever wonder why they went out of business?



That's not why they went out of business.
There were many wood type furnaces that went out of business for 2 reasons. 
The 1st was that the oil embargo of the late 70's was over and oil got dirt cheap. ....who is willing to work for heat when oil was .50 a gallon?

2nd The insurance companies were taking many hits on payouts due to unsafe installs.
They told the dist.,contractor/retailer and homeowner that if they sold,installed or operated the insurance coverage was cancled.
There really was no heating code to speak off. They went to the Feds for help who for the most part at the time took a hands off approach to how we heated our homes,but it became an issue which is why all states have a heating code....most have accepted the standard by N.F.P.A.

We manged to survive by scaling back and since we have had Sears selling thousands of furnaces under their brand and the fact that Yukon Energy Corp also had thousands of furnaces out there ....parts business kept us afloat . Then add in a few furnaces every year and we made it through those tough times.


Longwoods were very popular. I run into many that have gotten 20 years or better out of them.
I've already mentioned the drawbacks.....
To make a statement like that's why they went out of business is silly.


----------



## iowa (Jun 4, 2009)

My longwood will work just fine. I have a manual for it and will install it correctly and make sure all the settings are correct!


----------



## CrappieKeith (Jun 4, 2009)

iowa said:


> My longwood will work just fine. I have a manual for it and will install it correctly and make sure all the settings are correct!




If you ever need any advice you can call me.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Jun 4, 2009)

TreeCo said:


> Thanks for the correction. I was mistaken.
> 
> 
> I hope the EPA exemption of whole house wood furnaces comes to an end soon. Pardon my lack of enthusiasm concerning the installation of wood furnaces with antiquated combustion designs and efficiencies.



Hope ya think I was not personally slamming you TreeCo.

As to EPA exemptions in the EPA 40/60 rule subpart AAA.

Wood furnaces typically have way more heat exchangeabilty and are more efficient than those typical old style stoves that had no brick for thermal mass or some way of burning off the smoke creating more btus from that same pound of wood.

I do agree that many wood furnaces are not as effcient as they could be.
Being the American public did not request these types of heaters until just recently(150,000,000) went to some alternative heater last year.
There was not the demand to drive the R & D departments to justify the expenditures.

Smoke had never been an issue until about the last 10 years. Laws will not be made unless there is a public outcry or until it becomes an issue which it most certainly is right now with the cry of global warming and the emmisions created by the mass of OWBs that have been installed in this period.
Mostly irresponsible burners in populated areas.

I am proud to have represented a wood furnace manufaturer that has been the cadillac in the industry for over 30 years.
We patented the "after burn " process in our furnaces as there was never anything like this in the early 70's when David Tjosovold came up with this idea so long ago.
He also incorperated a massive heat exchanger to go into our furnaces knowing full well that you can make all of the heat possible , but if you can not exchange it into the ducting the heat will still go up the flue resulting in waisted heat...ie fuel.
He also designed the furnace to have way thicker and more dense brick then what you would find in a typical wood furnace.
David also realized that wood and coal does not need to burn as fast as a natural draft wants to burn these solid fuels. A typical draft speed in a decent well insulated flue is .08" of water column.
Incorperating a barometric draft regulator will give you the ability to slow the draft to a point that you can still make all of the 8000-8700 btus when the solid fuel is 15-20% moisture content and at the same time stay above that 25o degree mark where flue gasses will want to condense.
Slowing down and cycling draft speeds will also give the furnace more time to exchange those heats made.

Longwood does this to some extent however there is no "after burn" which is where 30-40% of the available btus are made.

Sorry for the derailing of this thread Iowa.
I hope that I am at least being of some help explaining all of this.
My advice Iowa is to match the flue to your smoke pipe outlet of the furnace.
Install a draft regulator and set it to .03-.04" of water column.
Burn well seasoned wood and make sure that you bring in make up air for combustion.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Jun 4, 2009)

TreeCo said:


> Well yes, I did take it as a person slam.
> 
> .....and it was well deserved!



Your a good egg!


I guess one of the reasons Dave has me onboard is that I have this desire to teach and help others.
Maybe that's why I enjoy guiding for fish too.
Took a 7 year old boy from not wanting to be in a boat and bored to catching,holding & releasing panfish this last weekend. He did not want to stop at the end of the day....what a flame I lit!
Here's the lil man holding his 1st slab.




Notice on his 5th fish he was holding them!...taking out his own hook too.





I know that many folks are really struggling with their heating costs.
I also know of a way to heat for cheap and be as warm as you want.
What an oxymoron to be paying mega bucks for heat only to keep the house to 60 degrees.

Even if you have to buy wood, you can still come way ahead by burning wood in an effcient furnace keeping your whole home warm and toasty.
Load your furnace and pay yourself instead of the oil conglomerates!
It's my mission to show others they do not have to be cold when they can heat with less wood then they thought they'd have to work to load .


----------



## laynes69 (Jun 4, 2009)

TreeCo said:


> I hope the EPA exemption of whole house wood furnaces comes to an end soon. Pardon my lack of enthusiasm concerning the installation of wood furnaces with antiquated combustion designs and efficiencies.



I agree. I decided to upgrade my woodfurnace this year to an epa model. 
I figured its a step towards the future of wood furnaces. Its cleaner for the environment, and less wood is always better! As long as people burn seasoned wood and burn it hot it helps in any woodfurnace. Its the people who burn green wood and smolder it to get the longest possible burn times are the ones not helping things. Unfortunately furnaces are expensive and many operate on a budget in todays society, so its hard to justify some upgrades. Hopefully things will improve with the woodfurnace industry in the future.


----------



## Constrictor (Jun 4, 2009)

yes it will heat 3000' home, no it wont hook up to the ductwork, but Englander does make a duckwork capable unit for about the same price. Im not sure if those are EPA certified, probably are. I really like my unit!

After growing up in a house that used wood heat, my dad always used cheap stoves that smoked up the house. I swore to myself i would not have one if i ever smelled smoke in the house. For once the EPA has done a good thing!


----------



## CrappieKeith (Jun 4, 2009)

laynes69 said:


> I agree. I decided to upgrade my woodfurnace this year to an epa model.
> I figured its a step towards the future of wood furnaces. Its cleaner for the environment, and less wood is always better! As long as people burn seasoned wood and burn it hot it helps in any woodfurnace. Its the people who burn green wood and smolder it to get the longest possible burn times are the ones not helping things. Unfortunately furnaces are expensive and many operate on a budget in todays society, so its hard to justify some upgrades. Hopefully things will improve with the woodfurnace industry in the future.



True,however if you look at the 2000-3000 s/f home.
The fuel bill will be as much or more then a wood furnace.
So instead of giving away that money for gas/oil and have nothing to show for the investment like renting a house you could get a wood furnace that if it had long burn times displace your entire liquid fuel bill.
Then at the end of the year it's paid for and every year after that it would pay you the thousands you had been giving away.

I went and found some same as cash financing for those that are strapped. They can take the cash already allotted for the heating bill and pay the bank.
So there's no extra $$$ they are paying only now at the end of the year they own a furnace instead of looking forward to another season of high liquid fuel bills and a cold home.


As to green wood....we need to take some responsibility in matters that are important to us.
Putting it up or buying it early takes care of the moisture content.
I talked to a gal one day who had creosote issues. She goes we got good wood. Cut it last Saturday!
OMG!
I spent a half hour explaining dry vs wet wood and all of the ramifications.


----------



## laynes69 (Jun 4, 2009)

Thats the thing. We didn't need a new furnace. Our old one worked just fine. We filled our propane tank 2 years ago in the summer and we now have 30% which our tank holds 80% at full with 400 gallons of propane. 2400 square foot home from the mid 1800's. But with more heat, less wood and so forth it was well worth the cost. I have 2000 in the furnace and I'll have around 500 for ductwork and installation. We normally would burn around 2 1/2 tanks to 3 tanks a year. We will get our money back this year with the woodfurnace, and the central furnace probably won't run at all unless we are gone. Another thing I like about a woodfurnace is your central furnace will last much longer in its lifespan not being used constantly. Our propane furnace is 20 year old 90% and has maybe 5 years total run time on it. For us it was money well spent. We just had to wait a couple years to get the new furnace.


----------



## 046 (Jun 4, 2009)

getting off the grid is where it's at... the freedom of burning wood is one of the few places we can actually take control of our utility costs. we are not talking peanuts, but thousands $$$ per season. 

burning clean will help keep our freedom to burn wood. don't give our legislators (who are in bed with utility companies) the excuse to pass draconian laws restricting use of wood heat. 

using clean burn technologies including EPA rated wood stoves is a surefire way to burn cleanly and efficiently. 

don't discount wood stove companies that's been in business 25+ years. believe it or not... there are wood stove companies that's been using clean burn technologies for 25+ years. the hard part is finding out which one. 

don't assume the technologies is not good, just because it's been around for awhile. it's an accepted fact the most efficient wood stove design has been around for a hundred + years. 

what I'm referring to is of course the Russian Fireplace design. some claim it's 90% efficient. http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yourself/1980-11-01/Build-Your-Own-90-Efficient-Fireplace.aspx

if I ever build a new home... without a doubt... a Russian Fireplace will be part of the new construction. which leads to the main drawback of Russian fireplaces (11 tons)... it's extremely difficult to retrofit a house for a Russian fireplace. it almost has to be part of original construction.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Jun 5, 2009)

That sounds great but 90%....it would have to be a condensor.I doubt there's a drain tube for creosote to pour out of the exchanger. Plus it would need a forced air blower to blow out the smoke out a pipe as it could not rise being too cool.

Here's another tidbit.
The so called EPA rated stoves that are tested to the lower heat value method are not in real percentages as efficient as the number reflects the steam as heat too ,when in fact that is not really anything worthwhile in the way of exchanging heat.

This low heat method of testing is pure maketing and it enables a stove to get the % that looks good on paper and it also allows those stoves to fall into the stimulous plan. 
Obama wants you to get away from oil....no matter what.

In real world methods you would take the CO against flue gas temps to calculate the efficiency of a furnace or stove.

Since all wood burners ie... OWB,stoves,furnaces need to have at least a 300 degree stack temp and the fires will be up to maybe 1500 degrees you could see a 70% maybe even 80% like if you burned bio bricks but all of these units fluctuate the burn rate with thermostats...well anything that cycles a bun rate is what I'm driving at.
If it is cycling then the fire goes up in temp and down in temp which changes the efficiency of that operation.
They do not have continuity of operation like liquid or electric furnaces have.

The only reason you'll see EPA tags on furnaces is because 2 states require them to have them or they can not be installed.
The rest of the states for the most part do not require them in their heating code.

You must understand that the EPA was attacking the stove of old that ran around 10% efficient.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Jun 5, 2009)

wait......I'm not done.

Testing and marking a percentage is a joke on furnace or a stove.

ok......lets all get the same double wall insulated high temp flue and lets all burn at the same elevation with the same moisture content in the air.
Next lets all get the same sized home with the same amount of insulation and construct the same ducting.
Next lets get the same wood and the same dryness level. Then we will set our stats to the same temp and load them at the same frequencies.

Lastly lets all have the same air temp outside so we all have the same call for heat.

You are going to have numbers that are all over the board so do not kid yourself about how effcient your stove or furnace actually is compared to the bill of good sold to you by some stove company.

There's only so much heat available to you from biomass which is all of the same. Corn,pellets,logs,hay,acorns,coal.
A pound is a pound.And a pound at 20% moisture makes 8000 btu's...period.

The best you can buy in a heater that burns biomass is a bunch of thick dense brick.3200 degree rated are very dense.In the case of an OWB the water is the thermal mass bank.
You want a bunch of heat exchange surface area.
Cycling burn rates help give the unit time to exchange those heats made.
A draft regulator will slow down draft speeds.Any stack temp hotter than 400 is a waiste.
Last a reburn or after burn to make those extra btus .

Should you get a unit that does these things you will have a clean burner and it will give you great heat.


----------



## gerry lemon (Apr 7, 2010)

*Longwood furnace*

I've just bought one similar to yours. I'm getting ready to hook it up.I would appreciate it if you could please forward the pdf on the owners manual that the lady was kind enough to send you.
Thanks,
Gerry


----------



## amateur cutter (Apr 7, 2010)

OK guys, here goes. I've got one of those Longwoods identical to Iowa's. Paid $ 250.00 for it, it had been used for 3 months then sat in a barn for 30 years. Mine had a fuel oil burner rather than propane. I never even hooked up the burner. I moved the blower to the back of the cabinet for space reasons, hooked up the heat reclaimer which has it's own thermocouple. It's piped out the shop wall & up 24' feet because of the high roof peak. This building has 0 insulation, but does have a ceiling & T 11 walls, & 3 insulated overhead doors. The comment I get from customers is " wow it's nice & warm in here ". I have 1600 sq feet & 14' high ceilings. It will heat 3000sq ft assuming you have something that resembles insulation, it will hook into your ductwork, & it will burn only wood. It will make a lot of heat, & hold a fire/coals all night. The coldest days of the winter i.e. high temps in the low teens we could work in t shirts all day. Coldest it ever got in here overnight was 50*. I can also keep the 800ft "house" portion of the building comfortable during the day by leaving the door open. At night we run a small propane wall unit in the house. If you haven't already figured it out, it's a 40 X 60 pole building with an apartment built into the back 1/3. As far as the 4' long logs I don't know if they work any better, but it's easier to get the stove full if you don't mind cutting twigs. I'm not man enough to split 4' long oak rounds. I cut my wood 20" & load it back & then front for over night, & just burn up toward the door when I'm around during the day to load it. 
The thing does go through more wood the a Yukon or other hi eff. unit, I would agree with the comment about it using similar to an owb. I wouldn't burn green wood due the creosote factor, but I get little or no smoke with seasoned wood. Hope this helps. A C


----------



## Hillbilly Cuz (Jan 18, 2011)

*Longwood Mark IV Manual courtesy request....*



iowa said:


> My longwood will work just fine. I have a manual for it and will install it correctly and make sure all the settings are correct!


 
Iowa, I have recently purchased a country home with a Longwood Mark VII servicing it. I would greatly appreciate it if you could email me the PDF manual you were graciously provided so I can understand the principles of operation and learn how to use it properly. Thanks a load....

Hillbilly Cuz 
[email protected]


----------



## derwoo126 (Jan 27, 2011)

Hill Billy and Iowa, I know you have probably been using your Longwood for awhile as this thread was started awhile ago, but my father-in-law has a Longwood in his house. Seems to work very good and he has never used propane with it. He doesn't even turn the blower on to circulate heat. He has his located in the center of his house down in the basement. The heat naturally rises through his ducts heating the upstairs keeping the house plenty warm. Also, he never uses wood over two foot in length. I'm sure he would get better burn time if he did, but his house stays plenty warm using the foot and a half to two foot logs.

Hope this helps a little


----------



## Hillbilly Cuz (Jan 27, 2011)

*Longwood Mark IV Manual courtesy request....*

Thank you derwoo126 for your response. I have not been long in our newly purchased home that has the Longwood Mark VII. The prior owner used only propane, never wood. I was hoping to obtain a users manual to assist me in utilizing both fuels most efficiently. Still waiting for Iowa to reply, as he has obtained a manual in PDF format. Hoping to get a copy of it from him.

Hillbilly Cuz


----------



## iowa (Jan 27, 2011)

I really like my longwood.. I fill it twice a day. Morning and evening. Keeps my house 73-74 all winter. Warmer if I wanted it! LOL.. Burning shagbark hickory right now and I have to say. WOW. Wish every tree I cut was a hickory. I love it!


----------



## iowa (Jan 27, 2011)

Hillbilly Cuz said:


> Thank you derwoo126 for your response. I have not been long in our newly purchased home that has the Longwood Mark VII. The prior owner used only propane, never wood. I was hoping to obtain a users manual to assist me in utilizing both fuels most efficiently. Still waiting for Iowa to reply, as he has obtained a manual in PDF format. Hoping to get a copy of it from him.
> 
> Hillbilly Cuz



On it's way Hillbilly Cuz. I just dropped in here today. It's been a few weeks since I've been on the arborist site. I'm glad I did, cuz I saw that this old thread had surfaced..


----------



## Hillbilly Cuz (Jan 28, 2011)

Thanks so much, iowa, for the manual. I will be digesting it shortly and applying what I learn to my Longwood Mark VII. I will endeavour to keep in touch when in your area. Thanks again.

Hillbilly Cuz


----------



## hjleyden (Feb 14, 2011)

*looking for a manual*


```

```



CrappieKeith said:


> If you ever need any advice you can call me.


 
Is there any way I can get a copy of that manual. We just purchases one and are looking for a manual to help with our install. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Hillbilly Cuz (Feb 14, 2011)

*Longwood Mark ViI User manual*

hjleyden, sure...it's too large to attach here, so you can send me your email address, and I can send it that route.

Hillbilly Cuz


----------



## hjleyden (Feb 14, 2011)

Hillbilly Cuz said:


> hjleyden, sure...it's too large to attach here, so you can send me your email address, and I can send it that route.
> 
> Hillbilly Cuz


 
It's [email protected]. Thanks again. Looking to install it this spring. With all this snow melting, the ground is too soft to really mess with it now this week or next.


----------



## Hillbilly Cuz (Feb 15, 2011)

*Longwood Duel Fuel Furnace Mark VII Manual-emailed*

hjlenden,
The email is on its way....along with other material which you may already have. Good luck with your installation.

Hillbilly Cuz


----------



## hjleyden (Feb 16, 2011)

Hillbilly Cuz said:


> hjlenden,
> The email is on its way....along with other material which you may already have. Good luck with your installation.
> 
> Hillbilly Cuz


 
Thanks Hillbilly Cuz, 

That manual is exactly what we are looking for!


----------



## bayard (Feb 16, 2011)

*wood oil boiler*

i have been using a northland combo unit for 38 years.my father put it in during the 70,s.i have been using it for 30 years. this thing is very well built.not one problem.there were a few years that i did not burn wood.5 to6 cords per year and all the hot water you want.if there was a unit like this now i would think many would buy them.k


----------



## kmess (May 27, 2011)

We just bought an old longwood with no manual. I would sure appreciate it if one of you would send me that pdf file of the manual.

[email protected]


Thanks!!!
kmess


----------



## iowa (May 27, 2011)

kmess said:


> We just bought an old longwood with no manual. I would sure appreciate it if one of you would send me that pdf file of the manual.
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> ...


I will tonight when I get home. Unless someone else beats me to it.


----------



## spoonhonda (May 28, 2011)

*Need the manual too!*

Looks like I am not the only one in need of that Longwood Mark VII manual. Dad and I are having a heck of a time trying to figure out how to hook this thing up correctly!  Please help!!

Thanks so very much,
David
[email protected]

P.S. I wouldn't mind uploading the manual on my server so everyone can just click and download it from now on. Just let me know?


----------



## spoonhonda (Oct 3, 2011)

Hey, I still have not been able to get my hands on a manual. If and when I do I will post it here. If anyone has one please email me. 

thanks,
David


----------



## Hillbilly Cuz (Oct 3, 2011)

*Longwood Mark VII Manual......*

Spoonhonda,
The materials I have on the Longwood Mark VII (PDF or zipped) are too large to attach to this forum. If I can get your email address, I will email what I have to you. Mine is:
[email protected]

Hillbilly Cuz


----------



## iowa (Oct 3, 2011)

I will try and get the guys who pm'd me the manual tonight. I've been busy finishing our basement and painting in the house lately. By the time night rolls around I'm only thinking about my bed. LOL


----------



## spoonhonda (Oct 3, 2011)

Hillbilly Cuz said:


> Spoonhonda,
> The materials I have on the Longwood Mark VII (PDF or zipped) are too large to attach to this forum. If I can get your email address, I will email what I have to you. Mine is:
> [email protected]
> 
> Hillbilly Cuz


 
A BIG THANK YOU to Hillbilly Cuz from all of us with a Longwood furnace who don't have a user manual!! I have posted it on my server and my MegaUploads account. Here's the links to it:
MEGAUPLOAD - The leading online storage and file delivery service
http://www.spoonertuner.com/media/downloadable/manuals/other/Longwood_Duel_Fuel_Furnace_Mark_VII_User_Manual.zip


----------



## iowa (Oct 3, 2011)

SpoonHonda! What kinda car do you drive. I can only guess! 

My name on most forums is IowaSilvia. If you get my drift!


----------



## spoonhonda (Oct 4, 2011)

I finally got my hands on the Longwood user manual thanks to Hillbilly Cuz and Iowa by email. So I uploaded it to my servers. So here are the download links to the manual for everyone:

MEGAUPLOAD - The leading online storage and file delivery service 
http://www.spoonertuner.com/media/d...od_Duel_Fuel_Furnace_Mark_VII_User_Manual.zip 

Wish you a warm winter (with a low heating bill)!


----------



## spoonhonda (Oct 4, 2011)

Sorry guys the admin here is deleting my posts (without explanation) with the links to the Longwood manuals that everyone is asking for. So, just email or pm me for it. [email protected]


----------



## grassylawn (Oct 6, 2011)

*length of wood to burn*

Hi. This will be my first year burning in my Longwood furnace. I only have 16" hardwood...5 cords of it. I live in a 2,000 square foot home with a matching basement. Do you think 5 cords will be enough? The manual says to burn 5' logs. I'm concerned now, since I only have 16" wood. What length hardwood do you guys burn?


----------



## Constrictor (Oct 6, 2011)

grassylawn said:


> Hi. This will be my first year burning in my Longwood furnace. I only have 16" hardwood...5 cords of it. I live in a 2,000 square foot home with a matching basement. Do you think 5 cords will be enough? The manual says to burn 5' logs. I'm concerned now, since I only have 16" wood. What length hardwood do you guys burn?


 
thats not going to be anywhere near enough wood with that stove. double it at least.


----------



## spoonhonda (Oct 6, 2011)

Still have yet to test our Long Wood over a winter season, but right now with the weather being cooling down here where I live to about 38F lows and 55F highs we only have to stoke the furnace every 48 hours. our house is 5000 square feet and not very well insulated. We are also still using up our 16" fire wood. And our oil fuel is hardly being used up at all. 

So, it is looking pretty good for us so far. In my opinion 5 cords could be enough depending on how well your house is insulated and your average weather temps during winter. But best to be on the safe side. Wood is much much cheaper then oil around here.


----------



## iowa (Oct 6, 2011)

grassylawn said:


> Hi. This will be my first year burning in my Longwood furnace. I only have 16" hardwood...5 cords of it. I live in a 2,000 square foot home with a matching basement. Do you think 5 cords will be enough? The manual says to burn 5' logs. I'm concerned now, since I only have 16" wood. What length hardwood do you guys burn?


 
With good seasoned wood. 6 cord max. You should be fine. Unless your home is really drafty?


----------



## grassylawn (Oct 7, 2011)

iowa said:


> With good seasoned wood. 6 cord max. You should be fine. Unless your home is really drafty?


 
6 cords....over a period of how many months?


----------



## grassylawn (Oct 7, 2011)

Constrictor said:


> thats not going to be anywhere near enough wood with that stove. double it at least.


 
Wow.... Iowa says I need 6 cords and you say I need at least 10... That's a big difference. Could you please explain?


----------



## Constrictor (Oct 7, 2011)

grassylawn said:


> Wow.... Iowa says I need 6 cords and you say I need at least 10... That's a big difference. Could you please explain?


 
Iowa is not heating 4,000 sf.


----------



## Constrictor (Oct 7, 2011)

grassylawn said:


> 6 cords....over a period of how many months?


 
3-4 months. Long woods aren't the most efficient stove.


----------



## grassylawn (Oct 7, 2011)

derwoo126 said:


> Hill Billy and Iowa, I know you have probably been using your Longwood for awhile as this thread was started awhile ago, but my father-in-law has a Longwood in his house. Seems to work very good and he has never used propane with it. He doesn't even turn the blower on to circulate heat. He has his located in the center of his house down in the basement. The heat naturally rises through his ducts heating the upstairs keeping the house plenty warm. Also, he never uses wood over two foot in length. I'm sure he would get better burn time if he did, but his house stays plenty warm using the foot and a half to two foot logs.
> 
> Hope this helps a little


 
How many cords does he go through and in how many months...how many square feet home?


----------



## iowa (Oct 8, 2011)

Constrictor said:


> Iowa is not heating 4,000 sf.


 
I'm heating 3000sq. Grassy lawn is heating 2000sq. Why would he need 10cord?

Last winter I went through 5 cord keeping my house 76 deg. 

Don't listen to someone who has 0 knowledge of this furnace. Longwoods are a good furnace. They may not be 80% efficient but they can and will heat a large home with ease. And with less wood than outside wood burners.


----------



## grassylawn (Oct 9, 2011)

iowa said:


> I'm heating 3000sq. Grassy lawn is heating 2000sq. Why would he need 10cord?
> 
> Last winter I went through 5 cord keeping my house 76 deg.
> 
> Don't listen to someone who has 0 knowledge of this furnace. Longwoods are a good furnace. They may not be 80% efficient but they can and will heat a large home with ease. And with less wood than outside wood burners.


 
What about concerns with overheating the unit....and damaging it? Any issues with overloading with wood?


----------



## Constrictor (Oct 10, 2011)

grassylawn said:


> What about concerns with overheating the unit....and damaging it? Any issues with overloading with wood?


 
No issues with overheating this unit and damaging it. I'm fairly famillliar with the longwood having kept the fire going in it while my buddy was away on vacation a couple times. Its a hardy old furnace but goes through the wood like its going out of style! almost like an OWB.


----------



## spoonhonda (Oct 10, 2011)

Constrictor said:


> No issues with overheating this unit and damaging it. I'm fairly famillliar with the longwood having kept the fire going in it while my buddy was away on vacation a couple times. Its a hardy old furnace but goes through the wood like its going out of style! almost like an OWB.


 
something must be adjusted wrong or something on your friends Longwood, because mine is just the opposite and does not use up hardly any wood.


----------



## grassylawn (Oct 10, 2011)

spoonhonda said:


> something must be adjusted wrong or something on your friends Longwood, because mine is just the opposite and does not use up hardly any wood.


 
I'm not familiar with the term "OWB"...what does that mean?


----------



## iowa (Oct 10, 2011)

grassylawn said:


> I'm not familiar with the term "OWB"...what does that mean?


 
Outside wood burner. 

They use a lot of wood. About 1/3 more than what a longwood does.


----------



## rishard s (Oct 19, 2011)

*just installd same VII,have all parts & all manuals!*

just installd same exact furnace! previous owner installd new in 1980 & used it every fall,winter& spring in norfolk NE till fall of 05 when i bought for 100 bucks. sat in my garage for 6 years. your right its heavy! I guest 800, main reason it sat! finely installd 2 weeks ago 10-4-11. gasasist was on furnace but dont think was ever used. I didnot trust it & dont have gas to my house anyway, so i took it off & plugd hole leaving small draft. & just burn wood.( my manual said natural or propane) im still just learning but even without gas & little draft it still charcoles. wood be interested in propain in the future. furnace is in greatshape even after all those years of constant use! it heats my 2500sq easily, tohot when blower is running! butt hasent ben that cold yet.


----------



## grassylawn (Nov 3, 2011)

*oil burner dial*

What is the big dial on the oil burner for? I can't figure it out....


----------



## iowa (Nov 3, 2011)

grassylawn said:


> What is the big dial on the oil burner for? I can't figure it out....



Pic?


----------



## snoracer (Nov 7, 2011)

*MK VII manual upload link.*



spoonhonda said:


> Sorry guys the admin here is deleting my posts (without explanation) with the links to the Longwood manuals that everyone is asking for. So, just email or pm me for it. [email protected]



Spoonhonda - I just tried the "MEGALOAD" link, and I was able to download the manual. Thanks. Seems to be an awful lot of opinions of how much wood I can expect to go through. There are just too many variables involved for anyone to make an absolute statement. Everyone's situation is different. Has anyone tried to heat water with this unit?


----------



## nancyknoblauch (Nov 12, 2011)

*longwood manual?*

:help:
I was wondering if you ever found a manual, and if so could I pay you for a copy?
any help would be appreciated. Thank you.






iowa said:


> Does anyone have any experience with setting one of these up. Have a manual or anything. I just picked one up and it is like new. Maybe used a season or had a couple fires built in it. Maybe none. I don't know.
> 
> UPDATE: I did a search and found someone on Bobvilla that had the manual. She had taken copies and sent me a PDF file on the entire manual for my exact furnace.
> 
> ...


----------



## iowa (Nov 13, 2011)

nancyknoblauch said:


> :help:
> I was wondering if you ever found a manual, and if so could I pay you for a copy?
> any help would be appreciated. Thank you.


Pm me your email address please.


----------



## nancyknoblauch (Nov 14, 2011)

*longwood manual*

[email protected]

Nancy Knoblauch
7038 135th street west 
Apple Valley N 55124


We have actualy had our furnace since my husband bought the house in 1989, I had even contacted the longwood company when they were still in business and ordered a manual, it sat around for years and we never needed it.
Now that there is a need for it, my husband is unable to figure out what he did with it.
You have no idea how greatful I am that you have one.
Did you want me to pay you for a copy of it? I would be more than happy to do so.


----------



## iowa (Nov 14, 2011)

nancyknoblauch said:


> [email protected]
> 
> Nancy Knoblauch
> 7038 135th street west
> ...


No need to pay for something that was given to me free. Will send it tonight.


----------



## iowa (Nov 14, 2011)

I tried emailing manual. It came back undeliverable! Do you have another email?


----------



## R Clark (Nov 27, 2011)

*Longwood Help*

I have been installing a Longwood furnace in our shop and have gotten along real good except one problem. I can't get the auto air damper to work.It had an Adams Speedflame burner on it that I removed.Now I can't figure out how to wire the thermostat to make it work.I have 24 Volts at the relay and can get the relay to work but the damper won't open.There are two wires that came from the Adams unit that I figured was to cut off the damper when the burner fired up.So I need to know how to bypass the gas burner and just wire the thermostat to make the damper work.
Thank you for any help you can give.

P.S this is a great site!


----------



## Hillbilly Cuz (Nov 27, 2011)

*Longwood Help*

Sir,
I have never installed a Longwood, but I own one that came with the home we purchased recently. I do, however, have an electronic copy of the Longwood Mark VII manual which I will send in a zipped file from my other computer within the hour. I hope it has the help you need.

Hillbilly Cuz


----------



## R Clark (Nov 27, 2011)

*Longwood*

Thank you Hillbilly,but I have a copy of the manual.Mine however does not have anything in it about the auto damper,if yours does maybe that would help.

Thanks again for your help.


----------



## Hillbilly Cuz (Nov 27, 2011)

*Longwood Mark VII help*

The size of the manual to the Longwood Mark VII, which hopefully provides you the help you need, is too large for this site. If you send me your email address, I can get it to you that way. It is just over 4mb in a zipped file.

Hillbilly Cuz


----------



## jra1100 (Jan 13, 2012)

Hi all. I am a bit late to this thread, but I have had a Longwood for the last 26 years. First of all a big thanks to spoonhonda for the PDF of the instructions, don't really need them at this juncture, but ya never know. 

For the first few years I didn't use the gas assist, and got along OK, but a friend came by and we figured it out. If you can use the gas or oil I highly recommend it. Fires are SO much easier to start and maintain with the gas. It makes no sense to not utilize the full capability of the furnace if you can. I have never put any wood in that was over 36 inches long and have had good results with the furnace. About 15 years ago it struck me that the reason that I burned quite a bit of wood was that there wasn't much heat sink, or thermal mass in this furnace, so I loaded the rear 2.5 feet of the fire chamber with glacial erratic, or field stone. This greatly enhanced heat retention and therefore reduced the amount of wood needed. As was stated before it is hard to figure out how much wood you need as winters vary greatly. Case in point, we had a high of 53 degrees on Tuesday, and it's near zero today, Thursday. When I purchased this house it had little insulation in the ceiling and zero in the walls. The ceiling had been lowered and there was R10 insulation. This last summer I took out the lowered ceiling and took the height back to the original 10.3 foot cathedral and sprayed foam to 5 inches and then covered that with an additional 2 inches of solid foam board and then 7/8 inch OSB and will cover that with drywall. The walls are 2 feet thick concrete with a stone exterior, and have no insulation which gives an R factor of zip, less than 1. The walls are as we speak being stripped with 1X2 and insulated between with 3/4 inch solid foam and then covered with another 1 inch of foam and then by OSB and then drywall. With just the ceiling finished it is much less drafty and cool in here. The envelope is about 1900 sq. ft. and all the walls and floors inside and out with few exceptions are concrete so it takes a bit to warm them up, but they hold heat like a demon holds a sinner. 

The Longwood had been a great furnace, and has been zero problems so far. My only complaint is the pilot light goes out on VERY wind days and is a pain in the azz to light. JR


----------



## olied (Jan 18, 2012)

*need manual for longwood dual fuel Mark VII*

If any of you still have the file for the longwood manual Mark VII I would appreciate it being sent to me at [email protected] thank you very much.
Ed


----------



## olied (Jan 18, 2012)

*Need copy of manual as well.*



Hillbilly Cuz said:


> The size of the manual to the Longwood Mark VII, which hopefully provides you the help you need, is too large for this site. If you send me your email address, I can get it to you that way. It is just over 4mb in a zipped file.
> 
> Hillbilly Cuz



Could you send a copy of this manual to me as well. thanks
ed

address is [email protected]


----------



## Hillbilly Cuz (Jan 18, 2012)

*Manual Request complied...*

Sure, I have sent it to your email account as a zipped file. The manual itself is in PDF format. Hope it helps.

Hillbilly Cuz


----------



## lela (Aug 12, 2012)

iowa said:


> My longwood will work just fine. I have a manual for it and will install it correctly and make sure all the settings are correct!



Would be interest in seeing your manual. Could you please e-mail me at [email protected]

We have a stove. Just don't know how to put all of the parts together.

Thank you


----------



## Audi (Sep 14, 2012)

*Manual?*

I am in need of a copy of the Longwood stove manual to get ours inspected so we can start using it this winter. I would very greatly appreciate it if anyone could email me a copy to [email protected]  Thanks very much in advance!


----------



## Hillbilly Cuz (Sep 15, 2012)

*Longwood manual request*

Sent to email supplied. Enjoy

Hillbilly Cuz


----------



## peck614 (Sep 18, 2012)

*Mark V longwood*

Hello I just moved into a rental unit that has a Mark V longwood furnace in it. It looks to be tied into the duct work and has a humidifier attached and lots of wires running everywhere. I know its not the same model but maybe the manual thats been floating around this thread may help me understand this beast a little better. I'm not to thrilled about the baseboard heaters in the rest of the house and if I can't get this thing running the landlord has to find me something else. My email is [email protected] it would be much appreciated. Also any tricks to cleaning chimneys or is it just easier to have it hired out?


----------



## iowa (Sep 18, 2012)

peck614 said:


> Hello I just moved into a rental unit that has a Mark V longwood furnace in it. It looks to be tied into the duct work and has a humidifier attached and lots of wires running everywhere. I know its not the same model but maybe the manual thats been floating around this thread may help me understand this beast a little better. I'm not to thrilled about the baseboard heaters in the rest of the house and if I can't get this thing running the landlord has to find me something else. My email is [email protected] it would be much appreciated. Also any tricks to cleaning chimneys or is it just easier to have it hired out?



Humidifier???  Need some pics of that! 

Keep the chimney clean. When it's fall and spring and it's not calling for lots of heat the unit sets and smolders creating creasote. Last yr I had a couple flue fires because of the mild winter. But once a week I open the draft door wide open and shut the power off to the unit. This allows it to burn hot and clean out any creasote thats in the pipes from burning during the week. Go up once a month and sweep the chimney too. Use good seasoned wood! The wetter the wood the worse creasote it creates. 

Good luck. And if someone doesn't send ya the manual by tonight, I will send it your way.


----------



## jimcootsj (Oct 10, 2012)

*Manual*

Thank goodness I found this. I really could use the manual.
One question. The price of fuel oil is flipping unreal. We have been using only wood and it works great. Is it safe to have that much heat in the unit? I know it is designed for slow burning oil assist, but will wood only hurt it?

[email protected]


----------



## jimcootsj (Oct 11, 2012)

*Manual*



Hillbilly Cuz said:


> Sent to email supplied. Enjoy
> 
> Hillbilly Cuz



If you would, I could use a copy of the manual.
[email protected]

Thank you in advance.


----------



## grassylawn (Dec 5, 2012)

*heating water*

I have the longwood and have been using it for a couple years. The first year didn't go so well, as the damper was broke. I have since replaced it and the house is around 70 degrees. Is it possible to heat my hot water also? If so, how would it be done?


----------



## Hillbilly Cuz (Dec 6, 2012)

*Longwood manual (belated)*



jimcootsj said:


> If you would, I could use a copy of the manual.
> [email protected]
> 
> Thank you in advance.



I don't recall if I responded to this request or not, but I am doing so now just in case (via direct to your email due to size). If it is a duplication, then just trash this copy, it is not anything new that I have. Sorry for the confusion.

Hillbilly Cuz


----------



## Hillbilly Cuz (Dec 6, 2012)

grassylawn said:


> I have the longwood and have been using it for a couple years. The first year didn't go so well, as the damper was broke. I have since replaced it and the house is around 70 degrees. Is it possible to heat my hot water also? If so, how would it be done?



Grassylawn,

I have to confess that I am not technically informed regarding the uses of the Longwood Mark VII. I acquired mine via a home purchase where it was already installed and working. I do not use it to heat our water, however. Surely, it could be done, but I do not know the design details. Sorry...however, others in this tread may offer some assistance regarding your query.

Hillbilly Cuz:frown:


----------



## FARMALLH1941 (Jan 23, 2013)

I would like to get a copy of the manual if you can send it to me please. I've ran one in my house for years, but never had the manual as it's be problem free.

email at [email protected] 

Thanks V


----------



## grassylawn (Jan 25, 2013)

*blower motor squealing*

I hear some slight intermittent squealing coming from the blower. Does that motor or fan assembly need periodic oiling? If so, where? I am not able to see oil ports from a visual scan without taking it apart. I also, am unsure how it comes apart. Could someone provide please provide some guidance with the squealing issue?


----------



## Old Doug (Jan 25, 2013)

My motor and fan can be oiled. The fan has 4 1/4" bolts that hold it on. I used a long extinction and socket to remove it but i dont know if they are all alike.


----------



## Bodhi1 (Feb 3, 2013)

Hillbilly Cuz said:


> I don't recall if I responded to this request or not, but I am doing so now just in case (via direct to your email due to size). If it is a duplication, then just trash this copy, it is not anything new that I have. Sorry for the confusion.
> 
> Hillbilly Cuz



Hillbilly Cuz,

I sent you an email but I wanted to make sure I covered my bases. Please send me a copy of the Longwood manual.

Thanks. My email is [email protected].

Thanks.


----------



## spoonhonda (Apr 22, 2013)

Hey guys,
I've got a no BS download link to the manual on my server. Feel free the share the link with others. I tried to post the link to it here on the forum before but the admin kept removing my posts which I can't understand since it's not like this manual is copyrighted literature or from a company that still even exists. Just trying to help out others like myself that own a longwood duel fuel furnace mark VII. 

[email protected]


----------



## johnisdone (Nov 25, 2014)

CrappieKeith said:


> If you ever need any advice you can call me.



I have a longwood. 

I need to replace the grates soon. 
Does anyone know where I can buy them or have them fabricated?

I am considering removing the heat reclaimer and adding a double-wall chimney pipe. 
Does anyone know if that will help reduce the amount of creosote buildup in the chimney?


----------



## iowa (Nov 25, 2014)

No. The furnace is an air tight furnace. When your thurmostat calls for no heat it closes the damper shut. Wood then smolders inside furnace causing creasote.


----------



## johnisdone (Nov 25, 2014)

iowa said:


> I'm heating 3000sq. Grassy lawn is heating 2000sq. Why would he need 10cord?
> 
> Last winter I went through 5 cord keeping my house 76 deg.
> 
> Don't listen to someone who has 0 knowledge of this furnace. Longwoods are a good furnace. They may not be 80% efficient but they can and will heat a large home with ease. And with less wood than outside wood burners.



Did you ever install the draft regulator? 

If so: did it make any difference?


----------



## johnisdone (Nov 25, 2014)

jra1100 said:


> Hi all. I am a bit late to this thread, but I have had a Longwood for the last 26 years. First of all a big thanks to spoonhonda for the PDF of the instructions, don't really need them at this juncture, but ya never know.
> 
> For the first few years I didn't use the gas assist, and got along OK, but a friend came by and we figured it out. If you can use the gas or oil I highly recommend it. Fires are SO much easier to start and maintain with the gas. It makes no sense to not utilize the full capability of the furnace if you can. I have never put any wood in that was over 36 inches long and have had good results with the furnace. About 15 years ago it struck me that the reason that I burned quite a bit of wood was that there wasn't much heat sink, or thermal mass in this furnace, so I loaded the rear 2.5 feet of the fire chamber with glacial erratic, or field stone. This greatly enhanced heat retention and therefore reduced the amount of wood needed. As was stated before it is hard to figure out how much wood you need as winters vary greatly. Case in point, we had a high of 53 degrees on Tuesday, and it's near zero today, Thursday. When I purchased this house it had little insulation in the ceiling and zero in the walls. The ceiling had been lowered and there was R10 insulation. This last summer I took out the lowered ceiling and took the height back to the original 10.3 foot cathedral and sprayed foam to 5 inches and then covered that with an additional 2 inches of solid foam board and then 7/8 inch OSB and will cover that with drywall. The walls are 2 feet thick concrete with a stone exterior, and have no insulation which gives an R factor of zip, less than 1. The walls are as we speak being stripped with 1X2 and insulated between with 3/4 inch solid foam and then covered with another 1 inch of foam and then by OSB and then drywall. With just the ceiling finished it is much less drafty and cool in here. The envelope is about 1900 sq. ft. and all the walls and floors inside and out with few exceptions are concrete so it takes a bit to warm them up, but they hold heat like a demon holds a sinner.
> 
> The Longwood had been a great furnace, and has been zero problems so far. My only complaint is the pilot light goes out on VERY wind days and is a pain in the azz to light. JR




Can you use any type of rock?


----------



## johnisdone (Nov 25, 2014)

iowa said:


> Humidifier???  Need some pics of that!
> 
> Keep the chimney clean. When it's fall and spring and it's not calling for lots of heat the unit sets and smolders creating creasote. Last yr I had a couple flue fires because of the mild winter. But once a week I open the draft door wide open and shut the power off to the unit. This allows it to burn hot and clean out any creasote thats in the pipes from burning during the week. Go up once a month and sweep the chimney too. Use good seasoned wood! The wetter the wood the worse creasote it creates.
> 
> Good luck. And if someone doesn't send ya the manual by tonight, I will send it your way.



How long do you let it burn with the power off?


----------



## Old Doug (Nov 25, 2014)

I leave the door open till i know its burning realy hot. I have one in my basement and one in our shop. Its not my ideal of the perfect stove i wish it had a deeper firebox. I live no far from the factory that built them. People that have them how do you like loading them?


----------



## iowa (Nov 25, 2014)

johnisdone said:


> How long do you let it burn with the power off?


Heck. I don't remember. Till it got good and hot!


----------



## jra1100 (Nov 25, 2014)

Hi johnisdone! I used granite, it is piled next to fields all around here. You just drive up to a fence line and load up as many as you like. Since you just joined today and it doesn't have your location, I don't know if that is an option for you. You need a type of rock which is igneous, or heat tolerant. Limestone for instance would be a poor choice as it has moisture in it and will literally explode and make a mess. Best of luck and welcome to the site. JR


----------



## johnisdone (Nov 26, 2014)

jra1100 said:


> Hi johnisdone! I used granite, it is piled next to fields all around here. You just drive up to a fence line and load up as many as you like. Since you just joined today and it doesn't have your location, I don't know if that is an option for you. You need a type of rock which is igneous, or heat tolerant. Limestone for instance would be a poor choice as it has moisture in it and will literally explode and make a mess. Best of luck and welcome to the site. JR



Hi jra1100:

I live in Kalamazoo, MI. I collected tons of stones out of our field last year. They seem more like river rock than anything else. Will this work, or do I need to find some granite?


----------



## jra1100 (Nov 26, 2014)

jid hard to say, not seeing them. I's start a camp fire and throw some in and see if they crack and or explode. The explosion won't be big, just something that you don't want happening in your wood burner. JR


----------



## trentenmarschel (Dec 11, 2014)

i have the manual on my site for the longwood dual fuel furnace as a free public download located here . http://www.pcrepairforums.com/thread-48.html


----------



## johnisdone (Dec 11, 2014)

jra1100 said:


> jid hard to say, not seeing them. I's start a camp fire and throw some in and see if they crack and or explode. The explosion won't be big, just something that you don't want happening in your wood burner. JR



I got some granite counter top scraps from a local wholesaler. Do you think that is good enough?


----------



## jra1100 (Dec 15, 2014)

don't see why not. I'd think that granite is granite. JR


----------



## madkatrob (Jan 6, 2015)

If any one has a manual for the v11 I just had one given to me. Its in real good shape but the wiring is messed up if you could plz email me a copy to [email protected] It would be greatly appreciated thanx.


----------



## billycbarnhart (Dec 2, 2022)

iowa said:


> Does anyone have any experience with setting one of these up. Have a manual or anything. I just picked one up and it is like new. Maybe used a season or had a couple fires built in it. Maybe none. I don't know.
> 
> UPDATE: I did a search and found someone on Bobvilla that had the manual. She had taken copies and sent me a PDF file on the entire manual for my exact furnace.
> 
> ...


Can you send me a copy of that manual and did you eliminate the propane injection?


----------

