# Husqvarna 345 Won't Oil Chain !!!!!!



## bsherrard (Mar 8, 2012)

My 345 will not throw any oil off of the chain and when I take the side cover off the oil is dumped around the back of the bar. I put the bar on alone while running slowly oil came up into the bar groove. I took cover off and there was no oil under the cover. I cleaned up and replaced the bar AND CHAIN. Again there was not oil coming off the chain and the oil was dumped under the cover at around the rear of the bar. I HAVE NO CLUE !!!!!! Thanks for any and all help!! :bang:


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## mecreature (Mar 8, 2012)

I had the same thing happening. I blew it out real good with the air compressor. 
I am used to pushing the bar up when tightening it up. When I did not do that it seems to oil fine. 
I have not used mine a lot but will this weekend. there are a lot of these out there I am sure others will chime in.


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## starb104 (Mar 8, 2012)

*455 Rancher wont either!*

I'm having same problem--looks like oil "drips" out the port when just running the case--but chain is dry as hell-even after new bar or cleaning with air etc. I think other posts suggest the oil pump is the culprit here and an "improved" one is available??


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## one.man.band (Mar 8, 2012)

similar thread here a few months back:

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/181282.htm#post3171934


-OMB


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## cat-face timber (Mar 8, 2012)

When I clean my bars I run a bar cleaner (thin metal) all along the bar groove.
I then make sure the oil passage is clear in the bar.
It seems like your saw is trying to oil, but something is stopping it from flowing down the bar.

Just my Honest Opinion....


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## stewr (Mar 9, 2012)

got a 345 myself, had the same thing happen to me. most likley the oil drive gear & worm gear are stripped, probably from fatigue or maybe you should use some thinner bar oil, if your cutting in sub zero temps.
this is an easy repair, just remove the clutch and disassemble the oil pump assy. got my parts from superxpower.com, great parts diagrams & quick shipping!
by the way, the parts are cheap so it's worth fixing. It's my wife's favorite BEATER saw!! We have a fleet of Stihls & 1 husky.


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## benz (Mar 9, 2012)

I had a same problem with my 345, i wasn't happy with the oiling of the bar, and i just redrilled the holes on the bar to 4mm or 5mm, i don't remember exactly. Now it uses one tank of oil per one tank of gas, but on my bar where the oil holes are the middle layer of the bar wasn't drilled so it covered about half of the oil hole, and i think that was obstruction for the oil flow. And when i redrilled holes i driiled through the middle section too, and now I am satisfied with the result.

But I also considered to upgrade oiler to adjustable one from 350 or 346xp, when i was looking in the IPLs i saw that the 435/440 have a fixed oil flow of 13ml/min while the 350/346 adjustable pump has maximum flow of 12ml/min. The only difference in the IPLs between the 340/345 and 435/440 is pump piston, the pump cylinder is the same. So to make it easier to see i made this picture from two IPLs:







I just need some of Husky dealers to do a comparasion and confirm my thoughts. Because i think it is easier to change just a piston and have a better oil flow then the whole adjustable oiler pump.


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## RNeurath (Mar 13, 2012)

Well, I hesitate to insinuate that any of you might be a foolish as I am. I had to jump on that refurb deal and just received my saw today. After hurrying to fit it up and put it to some wood I could see there was no oil reaching the chain. On closer examination I discovered that I failed to remove the plastic shipping spacer over the bar mounting stud, you know, the one that has "REMOVE" embossed on it. That right there made a big difference.
I find it depressing that they can't find a way to have these saws better tuned out of the box. This one would not hold an idle and the low end adjustment was way too lean 
(bogging). Twist a screw 1/2 turn and you have a snappy little saw. You have to wonder about the expense involved in people returning saws that lack such a simple adjustment.
Now to my reason for this post, Does anyone know what high end rpm this saw should be adjusted to? I have a tach and the coil is black which I gather means unlimited.
I have it set at 12000 rpm at the moment just to be safe during brake in and I did open the muffler up a tad. Any hints? Thanks,Ron


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## bplust (Mar 13, 2012)

Before I pull oilers apart, I run gas through them.

Put some in the oiler tank, run the saw (it'll make a mess), and don't try to cut anything metal.


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## Sabertooth (Mar 14, 2012)

Abjust the oiler screw, and clean all the sh!t under the clutch case. Try running the saw without the bar on it. If it leaks oil on the ground, its probably something foolish and not a big deal.


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## fir (Mar 14, 2012)

bsherrard said:


> My 345 will not throw any oil off of the chain and when I take the side cover off the oil is dumped around the back of the bar. I put the bar on alone while running slowly oil came up into the bar groove. I took cover off and there was no oil under the cover. I cleaned up and replaced the bar AND CHAIN. Again there was not oil coming off the chain and the oil was dumped under the cover at around the rear of the bar. I HAVE NO CLUE !!!!!! Thanks for any and all help!! :bang:



Clean the bar better oil pump is working but somthing is stopping it clean under chain guid this hapens at work all the time allways push up on bar when tightening it if not it will throw the marks on the saw used for falling


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## mecreature (Mar 14, 2012)

RNeurath said:


> Well, I hesitate to insinuate that any of you might be a foolish as I am. I had to jump on that refurb deal and just received my saw today. After hurrying to fit it up and put it to some wood I could see there was no oil reaching the chain. On closer examination I discovered that I failed to remove the plastic shipping spacer over the bar mounting stud, you know, the one that has "REMOVE" embossed on it. That right there made a big difference.
> I find it depressing that they can't find a way to have these saws better tuned out of the box. This one would not hold an idle and the low end adjustment was way too lean
> (bogging). Twist a screw 1/2 turn and you have a snappy little saw. You have to wonder about the expense involved in people returning saws that lack such a simple adjustment.
> Now to my reason for this post, Does anyone know what high end rpm this saw should be adjusted to? I have a tach and the coil is black which I gather means unlimited.
> I have it set at 12000 rpm at the moment just to be safe during brake in and I did open the muffler up a tad. Any hints? Thanks,Ron



I was going to suggest this earlier but thought surely not. I used my 435 a lot last weekend. 
It only goes thru about half tank oil per tank petro. I would like it to be more. 
Guess I will fiddle with it, I need to try my hand at a tune. It runs great.


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## Farmertan (Jun 18, 2012)

Thanks for all the good info, guys. Now I know what to look for to solve the same problem with my 346xp.


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