# White Smoke in Saw



## n.e.diver (May 21, 2009)

Hello Everyone,

A little about me as this is my first post. I am a do-it-myself kind of guy, but I've had to learn mostly on my own as I did not grow up in a super-handy household. I enjoy the process more than anything else.

Anyway, I have a Husky 353 that has performed great for me and I run it almost every month taking oaks, birch, and maples off my property to clear land and for firewood.

This winter after it sat for a bit I had problems getting it to run properly. It would start on full choke after a few pulls, then dump a huge amount of white smoke and then as soon as I gave it throttle it would die. It would start again but only if it sat for an hour or so.


Today I got around to taking it apart. Here are some things I noticed.

The carb is clean, there was no Jelly from Ethanol feul. I do use high octane and an ethanol stablizer designed for boats. I ended up taking apart and rebuilding the carb. It seemed that the choke valve was sticky and I felt that may have been the problem.

Air filter was cleaned and reinstalled. Tried starting it after rebuilding carb and with air filter off. Same white smoke and dies after idle.

The fuel lines were inspected and appered to be clean. I dont have the means to pressure test so that was not done.

Then I noticed the muffler had oil in it, or at least the spark arrestor screan was showing so fuel or oil. This was cleaned as well, however while reassembling the gasket seemed to be hard and brittle, it looked like the thin sheet of mica. It ended up crumbling in my hand and not being salvagable.

Ended up taking of chain bar and chain while servicing muffler. Tried starting it with out muffler, air filter, or chain bar. It did not start at all.

Put everything back together, without the gasket to muffler as described above. Drained fuel which did not look fresh at all. Went to station with brand new 1 gallon can. Put 93 octane, ethanol stabilizer, and 2 stroke oil mix. Filled up tank.

Started machine and it ran a bit rough at first, it dumped tons and tons of smoke into my back yard, tons at full throttle. I thought maybe I was blowing out the cylinder by opening the throttle all the way. Ended up sounding like it was running smooth and also idling smooth as well.

Shut her down because obviously it was not running the way it should be.

What should I do now?


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## buzz sawyer (May 21, 2009)

n.e.diver said:


> Hello Everyone,
> 
> A little about me as this is my first post. I am a do-it-myself kind of guy, but I've had to learn mostly on my own as I did not grow up in a super-handy household. I enjoy the process more than anything else.
> 
> ...



You may have loaded up the lower end of the engine with mix. My suggestion is to dump the fuel and start with fresh 89 octane and oil and skip the stabilizer - good quality oil may already have it. 93 octane is not required for that saw. Go with 50:1 mix and adjust the carb - do a search, there are some good posts on correct carb adjustment. If you aren't sure or confident on the adjustment, take it to someone who is.

Don't keep fuel more than three months. Don't leave fuel in the saw for more than a couple months. Empty the tank and let the saw idle until it runs out of fuel. 

Oh, and welcome to the site! I'm sure you'll get a lot of responses on this. BTW - are you a scuba diver?


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## n.e.diver (May 22, 2009)

Yes I am a diver and I teach with a local shop as well.

I did dump the fuel and the high octane thats in there is 1 day old with new mix and everything.


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## howellhandmade (May 22, 2009)

Agreed on the new fuel. Sounds like either running super-rich or too much oil in the mix -- if you see some of these guys running vintage saws with 16:1 mix you'll see some real fog. Also don't know what was in the stabilizer and how much you put in, but a saw uses so little gas it's really not worth it to use anything but fresh. If it ended up running and idling well you're likely OK mechanically.

http://www.madsens1.com/saw carb tune.htm

Jack


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## TraditionalTool (May 22, 2009)

I have always heard that your not supposed to let the white smoke out!

Maybe your ok this time though...

Cheers,
TT


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## n.e.diver (May 22, 2009)

got the saw running this morning, had it full throttle, idle seams a bit choppy but it didnt stall out. It didnt cut very well though. Seemed to bog down on a load, chain was producing chips but it took the saw about a min to get 2 inches into a 24 inch maple that has been drying out in 1/4 log length for about 2 years. I want to cut some more maple oak and birch out of my property but not with the way the saw is performing.

Have not tried the carb tune up. Any other suggestions?


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## n.e.diver (May 22, 2009)

just noticed this in my workshop manual for my saw.

_To ensure that engine components receive adequate lubrication (running in) the carburettor should be set to a somewhat richer fuel mixture for the chainsaw’s first 3-4 running hours. This is done by adjusting the maximum speed to 6-700 rpm less than the recommended maximum speed.
Repair instructions
If it is not possible to check the maximum speed with a tachometer then the H jet should not be set to a weaker mixture than the basic factory setting.
The recommended maximum speed must not be exceeded.
NOTE! If the chain turns at idling speed, the T
screw should be turned anti-clockwise until the chain stops.
Fine adjustment Once the chainsaw is “run in” the carburettor should
be readjusted. First adjust the L jet screw, then the idling screw T and finally the H jet screw.
The recommended engine speeds are as follows:
Model Max revs Idle revs 340 12,500 rpm 2,700 rpm
345 12,500 rpm 2,700 rpm 346XP/G 14,200 rpm 2,700 rpm 350 13,000 rpm 2,700 rpm 350 EPA 13,000 rpm 2,700 rpm 351 13,000 rpm 2,700 rpm 353 13,000 rpm 2,700 rpm_


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## barkies (May 22, 2009)

White smoke???? Its probably steam make sure the radiator isn't leakingopcorn:opcorn:


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## TRI955 (May 22, 2009)

TraditionalTool said:


> I have always heard that your not supposed to let the white smoke out!
> 
> Maybe your ok this time though...
> 
> ...



That's only if it had Lucas doing the wiring. They don't call Lucas The Prince of Darkness for nothing!!!!


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## n.e.diver (May 23, 2009)

Im getting a little discouraged. I ended up adjusting the carb adjustment screws. Saw idles faster and less choppy, and runs at a higher rpm. The smoke problem I think was a buildup of oil in the muffler and spark arrestor screen that was burning off.

Saw is still bogging down when first starting and getting throttle. I can get past that and have it open all the way for a bit, but when ever I try and cut with it bogs down. It wont stall just bogs down.

I inspected the fuel lines and they look good but i didn't pressure test them. I also looked at the fuel filter and it looked good but for all i know it could be clogged.

Can i remove the filter and try running the saw without it?

Any other suggestions?


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## alderman (May 23, 2009)

Did you check to see if the spark screen on the muffler is plugged?


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## ironman_gq (May 23, 2009)

take the muffler off and check the cylinder and see if the muffler is plugged or the screen is plugged


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## woodyman (May 23, 2009)

ironman_gq said:


> take the muffler off and check the cylinder and see if the muffler is plugged or the screen is plugged



:agree2:


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## n.e.diver (May 23, 2009)

hey everyone,

the saw is running and cutting good. the muffler was addressed when I took carb apart I also cleaned muffler and screen. 

It was the fuel filter or at least replacing it fixed the problem. Total repair bill $4 bucks. Thanks for the help this was a great site.


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## woodyman (May 23, 2009)

n.e.diver said:


> hey everyone,
> 
> the saw is running and cutting good. the muffler was addressed when I took carb apart I also cleaned muffler and screen.
> 
> It was the fuel filter or at least replacing it fixed the problem. Total repair bill $4 bucks. Thanks for the help this was a great site.



How do you fuel up?When I fuel up I wipe any large stuff off and blow as hard as I can aroud the gas cap then crack it just a little and blow again.I also wipe off the front of the saw so when I take off the cap it hangs down and rests on a clean part of the saw.I also have a screen at the bottom of the spout on the gas can so I never get any crap in the gas tank of the saw.Doing it this way saves me time and money.


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## n.e.diver (May 24, 2009)

woodyman said:


> I also have a screen at the bottom of the spout on the gas can so I never get any crap in the gas tank of the saw.Doing it this way saves me time and money.



how'd you rig that screen? I take no care in making sure saw chips don't fall in, but I will going forward.


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## Brushwacker (May 24, 2009)

All that white smoke sounds as if bar oil got where it shouldn't have to me.
Hard to believe the fuel filter is what fixed it.


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## n.e.diver (May 24, 2009)

ran it today and took down 5 large maples and beech trees. Took all day and I found the saw bogged down a bit here and there. I definetly need to replace the air filter because it ran much much better with it off.

I think its been a combonation of things where I used the saw heavy over the last 2 years and its had zero maitenece until recently.

The bar chain oil was definetly getting in there. That was a storage problem in how I stored it.


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## Brushwacker (May 25, 2009)

If a chainsaw is going to work anywhere near its potential it requires regular maintnence like cleaning the air filter replacing and sharpening the chain , bar, sprocket etc.. Have the carb adjusted now and then, temperature humidity etc . may change the air fuel ratio enough to make a difference as well as wear and tear on the engine effects it to. Check for worn, broken , loose parts AV dampners,screws , etc.. Don't use it without a good air filter in place. Dirt ingestion ruins an engine way before its time. I probably adjust my carb 1 way or the other an average of a couple times every 3 months for my most used saws. May not be absolutley neccessary most the time but I like my saws to run up to their full potential and there will be much less problems in the long run.


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