# How to dissolve varnish in fuel tank?



## blsnelling (Dec 13, 2010)

I've got this Poulan 5200 here that I need to clean up. I just removed the fuel cap, and the tank is entirely coated with a thick layer of varnish. I've not had good luck trying to clean this stuff out before. What have you guys found to work?


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## little possum (Dec 13, 2010)

I use gasoline and lead shot 

Dump it in, shake it around- dump it out in a strainer- repeat, repeat, repeat. 

I think Jerry- pioneerguy- had some kind of carb cleaner in a jug that he said would take the gunk out, but IDK if its available stateside.


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## sefh3 (Dec 13, 2010)

I have used straight gas and ball bearings before and was pretty successful with that. I know others have used sea foam before but I have not tried that.


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## Guido Salvage (Dec 13, 2010)

I have known people to use gravel in fuel tanks of tractors when they get gummed up. Personally I used chain as I didn't have to worry about losing any. You might want to try a few links of 1/4" chain and shake with some fresh gas, drain and repeat as many times as necessary. With the chain you know you are not leaving anything behind.


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## bama (Dec 13, 2010)

BB's are what I use. Got 1000's of them and I just use a magnet to get the stubborn ones out of the tank.


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## jockeydeuce (Dec 13, 2010)

Lacquer thinner (with good ventilation)!! Let it soak awhile and then get in there with some cloth on the end of a welding rod and scrub it out. Do that two or three times and it'll be spotless. I sometimes swish it out with some purple cleaner after that to get the varnish residue and thinner out......Lacquer thinner will even break up the residue from a line or filter that has melted to the bottom of the tank.


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## CentaurG2 (Dec 13, 2010)

I have cleaned some serious goo out of ancient pressure lamp founts with berrymans b12 chem tool and a handful of ball bearings of various sizes. Dump in, shake till you get bored and repeat as necessary. Works on rust inside old fuel tanks as well.


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## pioneerguy600 (Dec 13, 2010)

I have used this product for over 15 years on a lot of saws and other two stroke mix tanks and carbs, it is an industrial strength cleaner and will strip 1/4" of the worst varnish from a metal tank or carb usually overnight. I have not used it on the nylon/plastic tanks as yet but I don`t think it would harm them.







This stuff just cleaned up a RA that Dan Can had given me, there was at least 1/4" of varnish and goo in that tank and the carb was totally seized with that guck. They are now sparkling clean, just set overnight.

Pioneerguy600


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## pioneerguy600 (Dec 13, 2010)

Can`t really get a clear pict of the tank but this is what came out of there;
















All that junk was stuck fast to the tank bottom and a screwdriver would hardly dent it.

Pioneerguy600


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## Guido Salvage (Dec 13, 2010)

Jerry,

As they are a Canadian company is there any way to get their products in the U.S.? I see 4 Canadian offices (plus ones in Syria, Poland and Hong Kong), but nothing for us down in the States. How much does a 4 liter jug run?

Gary


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## pioneerguy600 (Dec 13, 2010)

Guido Salvage said:


> Jerry,
> 
> As they are a Canadian company is there any way to get their products in the U.S.? I see 4 Canadian offices (plus ones in Syria, Poland and Hong Kong), but nothing for us down in the States. How much does a 4 liter jug run?
> 
> Gary



I can find out for you and that one cost me around $45. a couple of years back. One of the sources we get this product from is UAP, not sure if you have them over on your side. We also had a product called Gunk carb cleaner that was about the same, it has gone out of avaliability since fuel injection has taken most of the carb engines off the road.

Pioneerguy600


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## stderr (Dec 13, 2010)

Acetone. I've used it on both Magnesium and plastic cases. You do have to let it sit for a while though. Give it a shake once or twice a day. It's especially good if you have rotted fuel line stuck to the inside of the tank. The stuff dissolves the rubber line.


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## pioneerguy600 (Dec 13, 2010)

Data sheet for the Kleen-flo carb and metal cleaner;

http://www.kleenflo.com/en/msds/651.pdf

Pioneerguy600


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## John R (Dec 13, 2010)

If it works good, it's probably been outlawed in the states by the EPA.


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## blsnelling (Dec 13, 2010)

Thanks for the tips guys. I have both lacquer thinner and Seafoam here. I also have lead shot. I'll give those a try.


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## Rftreeman (Dec 13, 2010)

I use steel BB's and wal-mart brand carb cleaner, spray a can full in and put a hand full of bb's in and shake like hell, let it soak for a bit and repeat the shaking, do this till it's clean...


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## srcarr52 (Dec 13, 2010)

I use a scotchbrite cross-buff pad on a long mandrel to get most of the stubborn spots. I usually do while running mineral spirits through it in the solvent tank. 

I find with a nice long mandrel and a larger pad I can get most spots in any tank and it takes only 10 minutes. 

I bought my last cross-buff kit off Jegs or Summit (sold to idiots thinking they can clean/port their SBC heads with them).


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## stderr (Dec 13, 2010)

srcarr52 said:


> I use a scotchbrite cross-buff pad on a long mandrel to get most of the stubborn spots. I usually do while running mineral spirits through it in the solvent tank.
> 
> I find with a nice long mandrel and a larger pad I can get most spots in any tank and it takes only 10 minutes.
> 
> I bought my last cross-buff kit off Jegs or Summit (sold to idiots thinking they can clean/port their SBC heads with them).



This works great if you can get into the whole tank. Some saws have oddly shaped tanks and it's just not that easy to get into them. Those old EMAB saws come to mind, since I've just had a royal battle with one (Husky 35, Frontier Mark I, Jonsereds m361, and many more). The tank goes down the front of the saw and under the crankcase. You can't get in there very easily.


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## srcarr52 (Dec 13, 2010)

stderr said:


> This works great if you can get into the whole tank. Some saws have oddly shaped tanks and it's just not that easy to get into them. Those old EMAB saws come to mind, since I've just had a royal battle with one (Husky 35, Frontier Mark I, Jonsereds m361, and many more). The tank goes down the front of the saw and under the crankcase. You can't get in there very easily.



It's gets the majority... the rest is where some loose shot and a little shaking will get the rest to a degree you can live with. In the end, nothing is going to be a perfect as new.


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## procarbine2k1 (Dec 13, 2010)

I would like to know myself. I have a MINT P41, that has some unbelievable crud in the tank. Like 20 year old stuff (imagine, this saw still looks new). I would best describe it as road tar. I have never seen anything remotely as nasty, but the saw is so perfect Im just waiting on the right idea to take care of it I guess.
I have used a bit of carb cleaner, and thinner- and seems to have loosened the stuff up... but not where it needs to be.


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## Stihl Crazy (Dec 13, 2010)

pioneerguy600 said:


> I can find out for you and that one cost me around $45. a couple of years back. One of the sources we get this product from is UAP, not sure if you have them over on your side. We also had a product called Gunk carb cleaner that was about the same, it has gone out of avaliability since fuel injection has taken most of the carb engines off the road.
> 
> Pioneerguy600



Just bought a can last week. Still under $50. Works great.


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## mama (Dec 13, 2010)

*cleaner*

Carb cleaner, let it set overnight should do the trick.


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## little possum (Dec 13, 2010)

Ok this may be a little crazy...

But I was working on the gummed up carb on my Farmall tonight. Well I was heating the choke shaft with a small propane torch, and it scorched the varnish, and it just flakes off.

IDK if that could be applied to the gas tanks or not. Might mess up the paint, but maybe you could stick the nozzle inside.

:monkey:


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## srcarr52 (Dec 13, 2010)

little possum said:


> Ok this may be a little crazy...
> 
> But I was working on the gummed up carb on my Farmall tonight. Well I was heating the choke shaft with a small propane torch, and it scorched the varnish, and it just flakes off.
> 
> ...



Or just explode and voila no more tank to mess with.


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## little possum (Dec 13, 2010)

No fuel in the tank, and let it sit for while with the cap off.

I mean gas tanks can be welded on autos/big rigs. So...
Thinking out loud


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## srcarr52 (Dec 13, 2010)

little possum said:


> No fuel in the tank, and let it sit for while with the cap off.
> 
> I mean gas tanks can be welded on autos/big rigs. So...
> Thinking out loud



That is after being flushed with water and filled with argon.


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## pioneerguy600 (Dec 13, 2010)

Stihl Crazy said:


> Just bought a can last week. Still under $50. Works great.



Ya, I figured it would have gone up a little since I got my last 4 cans. I have yet to find a better product and I have been at this line of work since I was a kid, LOL. Good to hear someone else on here also uses it and that it works for them. I know of a few mechanics around me that I have turned on to this stuff and they swear by it. This stuff will also clean carbon off pistons and cylinders to make them look great without ruffing up the finish like abrasives and scrapers do.

Pioneerguy600


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## bullseye13 (Dec 13, 2010)

You can still get GUNK carb cleaner in gallon cans with a stainless basket, at an Advance auto or local equivalent. Cost is 20+ for a little less than a gallon, stinks, smell gets in everything, but great stuff. Will eat the paint off of anything in short order.


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## Mike311 (Dec 13, 2010)

You might try some GM Top Engine Cleaner or Chrysler Combustion chamber cleaner. They both seem to be the same chemical, going by the smell, and seem to work the same as well. The GM product comes in a pint pour can and the Chrysler product comes in a spray can.

I was rebuilding and old holley carb that had sat for some time and the float bowls were really varnished up. That varnish was so hard you could not scrape it off with a screwdriver. I filled the float bowls with the Chrylser combustion chamber cleaner and let them sit for a few hours. It dissolved all the varnish and they looked like new inside. 

I don't know if it would be safe to use on a plastic tank but a metal tank would be fine.


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## dellwas (Dec 14, 2010)

Hey Jerry,

I believe that UAP was bought out by NAPA? Pretty sure all the stores in Halifax were anyway. If so, and they did buy them out on a corporate scale, then maybe it's available at NAPA stateside....



Guido Salvage said:


> Jerry,
> 
> As they are a Canadian company is there any way to get their products in the U.S.? I see 4 Canadian offices (plus ones in Syria, Poland and Hong Kong), but nothing for us down in the States. How much does a 4 liter jug run?
> 
> Gary





pioneerguy600 said:


> I can find out for you and that one cost me around $45. a couple of years back. One of the sources we get this product from is UAP, not sure if you have them over on your side. We also had a product called Gunk carb cleaner that was about the same, it has gone out of avaliability since fuel injection has taken most of the carb engines off the road.
> 
> Pioneerguy600


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## dellwas (Dec 14, 2010)

Where did you pick it up, if you don't mind me asking?



Stihl Crazy said:


> Just bought a can last week. Still under $50. Works great.


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## belgian (Dec 14, 2010)

pioneerguy600 said:


> I have used this product for over 15 years on a lot of saws and other two stroke mix tanks and carbs, it is an industrial strength cleaner and will strip 1/4" of the worst varnish from a metal tank or carb usually overnight. I have not used it on the nylon/plastic tanks as yet but I don`t think it would harm them.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I would really try this stuff if it were available here.


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## Guido Salvage (Dec 14, 2010)

belgian said:


> I would really try this stuff if it were available here.



They have an office in Poland, so they must have a presence in Europe. Environmental laws may dictate where products are sold. This website should help: www.kleenflo.pl.


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## pioneerguy600 (Dec 14, 2010)

dellwas said:


> Hey Jerry,
> 
> I believe that UAP was bought out by NAPA? Pretty sure all the stores in Halifax were anyway. If so, and they did buy them out on a corporate scale, then maybe it's available at NAPA stateside....



You are correct, the stores are now owned and run by NAPA, so if there are NAPA stores state side they should be able to bring it in to individual stores unless it is a banned substance, you know EPA and all that stuff.

Pioneerguy600


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## pioneerguy600 (Dec 14, 2010)

NAPA has affiliates state side;

http://www.uapinc.com/client/en/uap/genuine.html

Pioneerguy600


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## belgian (Dec 14, 2010)

Guido Salvage said:


> They have an office in Poland, so they must have a presence in Europe. Environmental laws may dictate where products are sold. This website should help: www.kleenflo.pl.




thanks for that link....but my polish is a bit rusty....:hmm3grin2orange:
why they choose a location in poland for distributing their products in europe is beyond me...


musta have something to do with regulations I think, or patent rights. I'll dig somewhat further in the chemical composition of this product to see if I can find a simular product. If Jerry is a convinced user, I gotta try this stuff as well....I'll be dayuuum.


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## Freehand (Dec 14, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Thanks for the tips guys. I have both lacquer thinner and Seafoam here. I also have lead shot. I'll give those a try.



Careful with that lacquer thinner Brad,I've had that stuff just render fuel grade plastic in a hurry.A very "hot" solvent,I use it for quick flushes and chase it with mix to flush IT out.Someone mentioned acetone,that stuff is way too hot.It will eat powdercoat right off the magnesium.


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## blsnelling (Dec 14, 2010)

I headed out to the garage and found a couple bottles of Berrymans B-12. That and some #8 lead shot worked wonders. Thanks guys. I would have never though of the lead shot.


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## stderr (Dec 14, 2010)

freehandslabber said:


> ...Someone mentioned Acetone,that stuff is way too hot. It will eat powdercoat right off Magnesium.



Yeah, that was me  

You're right, Acetone will eat powdercoat. I had a powdercoater warn me about it. Any Ketone based solvent will eat through powdercoat very quickly. It's not so bad with a regular spray on finish though.

There's usually no paint inside the tank. I did spill a bit on the outside of a Magnesium tank, but I wiped it off right away and couldn't see any damage. I also tried it on a plastic Shindaiwa tank with good results.

It's definitely an aggressive option. If you have a fuel line that's turned to goo, and you can't get a brush on it, it'll get the job done.


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## paccity (Dec 14, 2010)

berrymans and steel shot. works for me.


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## procarbine2k1 (Dec 14, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I headed out to the garage and found a couple bottles of Berrymans B-12. That and some #8 lead shot worked wonders. Thanks guys. I would have never though of the lead shot.



Glad it worked out, may have to give it a shot after while.


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## cbfarmall (Dec 14, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I would have never though of the lead shot.



That's an old tractor restorer's trick--shot, BBs, bolts, nuts, chain. Anything loose in the fuel tank and rattle it around. Some guys would strap the tank to the back of a lawn mower, and mow their yard and let the tank rattle. Some guys have strapped the tank to a tractor wheel jacked in the air, and let it rotate slowly for a while. Course, chainsaw tanks are much smaller so you don't have to go to those extremes.

Chris B.


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## dellwas (Dec 14, 2010)

Thanks Jerry, I'll have to grab some. also, Princess Auto carries Kleen-Flo products, I'll check and see if they carry it too. I use Kleen-Flo diesel additive and that's where I get it....



pioneerguy600 said:


> You are correct, the stores are now owned and run by NAPA, so if there are NAPA stores state side they should be able to bring it in to individual stores unless it is a banned substance, you know EPA and all that stuff.
> 
> Pioneerguy600


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## 7hpjim (Dec 13, 2012)

pioneerguy600 said:


> I have used this product for over 15 years on a lot of saws and other two stroke mix tanks and carbs, it is an industrial strength cleaner and will strip 1/4" of the worst varnish from a metal tank or carb usually overnight. I have not used it on the nylon/plastic tanks as yet but I don`t think it would harm them.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



What parts stores have this stuff available??


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## DSS (Dec 13, 2012)

7hpjim said:


> What parts stores have this stuff available??



This is an old thread, but we can still get it at NAPA here in Canada.


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## ford832 (Dec 14, 2012)

Combustion Chamber Conditioner.Invented by Chrysler for carbon in the old 2.2's.They still sell it in a spray can as do some auto parts stores.Make sure you get that name so you don't end up with a carb cleaner.Soak overnight and you're done.It works wonders on brass carb jets.After a overnight soak they come out clear and shiny new looking.


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## pioneerguy600 (Dec 14, 2012)

DSS said:


> This is an old thread, but we can still get it at NAPA here in Canada.



Have you ever tried it Chris? I can`t believe how good this product dissolves everything inside these 40+ year old chainsaw tanks and carbs. I need to get another 4 cans so I don`t run out in the near future.


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## DSS (Dec 14, 2012)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Have you ever tried it Chris? I can`t believe how good this product dissolves everything inside these 40+ year old chainsaw tanks and carbs. I need to get another 4 cans so I don`t run out in the near future.



No I haven't Jerry. The last one I had to scrub I just used carb cleaner and elbow grease, but I saw a can of that stuff at Napa not long ago and I think I'll get some after your review.


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## pioneerguy600 (Dec 14, 2012)

DSS said:


> No I haven't Jerry. The last one I had to scrub I just used carb cleaner and elbow grease, but I saw a can of that stuff at Napa not long ago and I think I'll get some after your review.



You won`t regret it if you can get a gallon, it will even remove carbon from piston crowns and the top of the cylinder, remember to plug the sparkplug hole.


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## little possum (Dec 14, 2012)

Gotta find something like this. Messing with quite a few ATV carbs and the jets are clogged, and there is nothing around that can clean them out. Torch tip cleaners are way to big. So far just carb cleaner, ultra sonic and compressed air(until they fly across the shop)


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## LegDeLimber (Dec 14, 2012)

Any Chemists on hand?
Saw the data sheet for the kleen-flo and it sorta looks like paint stripper 
with a dose of lye thrown in.

Wouldn't recommend anyone try doing that willy nilly. 
If mixed wrong, caustic soda or lye will boil very nastily 
(kinda like those mentos and coke bombs)
and blow some fast blistering stuff onto you.

I did milling work in one shop that used caustics and acids 
to remove damaged aluminum or magnesium 
from industrial electric motors,
It's serious stuff to work with.


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## pioneerguy600 (Dec 14, 2012)

LegDeLimber said:


> Any Chemists on hand?
> Saw the data sheet for the kleen-flo and it sorta looks like paint stripper
> with a dose of lye thrown in.
> 
> ...



I certainly would never recommend getting any of this product on yourself, wear good liquid proof gloves and eye protection at least, a clear face shield preferred when pouring or handling this liquid.I can attest that it burns/ blisters bare skin.


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## barneyrb (Dec 14, 2012)

I've been using the regular "Gunk" carb cleaner out of the gallon can along with 1/4 nuts. You count the nuts as you put them in and use a magnet to retrieve them and then count them again. I think the sharp corners and points on the nuts tend to bite and cut the varnish a little better than round objects.


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## Vibes (Dec 14, 2012)

I saw a guy make a tank cleaner out of lag chain for hanging old flourescant lite fixtures. He welded it onto a hex drive and ran it on the the cordless drill. He was using it to clean motorcycle tanks.


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## BDM53ENT (Dec 14, 2012)

barneyrb said:


> I've been using the regular "Gunk" carb cleaner out of the gallon can along with 1/4 nuts. You count the nuts as you put them in and use a magnet to retrieve them and then count them again. I think the sharp corners and points on the nuts tend to bite and cut the varnish a little better than round objects.



I like the hex nut idea, will have to try that.


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## MacAttack (Jan 13, 2020)

Hey guys, sorry to resurrect an old thread, but looking for advice. The magnesium tank on my PM 270 has a layer of verrrry old black tar in the bottom that while it seems to not be coming loose and causing problems, i would like to remove if possible. The saw also still has the original 60 year old rubber fuel line in the tank that i would prefer to not dissolve, i was wondering what everyone might recommend trying?


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## heimannm (Jan 13, 2020)

Chris mentioned attaching one to tractor wheel to rotate it slowly, I built a fixture to rotate the tank slowly in my mini lathe. Add a healthy dose of BB's and let it run one hour in one direction, one hour going the other way. Add some solvent or even one of the water/ammonia based cleaners (Purple Power, etc.) and let it work.







I haven't tried the Berryman's on a fuel tank but it work pretty well on cylinders and mufflers if you let it soak for a few days. I bought mine at Walmart.




Mark


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## MacAttack (Jan 13, 2020)

Thanks Mark, do you know if the Berrymans is safe on rubber parts?

I usually don't care about changing fuel lines, but in this case it would likely require removing the carb and other things I'd rather not disturb on the old saw.


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## rupedoggy (Jan 13, 2020)

Whichever solvent you find to your liking throw some fence staples in the tank with it and agitate rigorously.


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## heimannm (Jan 14, 2020)

Based on the directions on the can, I would say not good for rubber parts.




Mark


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## MacAttack (Jan 14, 2020)

Thanks again Mark, i weighed my options and decided a handful of some old nuts and some gas, shaken (not stirred) should do well enough. It's sitting and I'm going to give some shakes each time i walk past for a week or so and then see how it looks.


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## bwalker (Jan 14, 2020)

Berryman's chem dip is the way to go for taking varnish off with ease. Available at Autozone.


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## MacAttack (Jan 14, 2020)

bwalker said:


> Berryman's chem dip is the way to go for taking varnish off with ease. Available at Autozone.



It sounds like good stuff, I'm just apprehensive about using it when the rubber pickup line is present. Any other saw I'd just remove the lines and try the Berrymans.


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## bwalker (Jan 14, 2020)

MacAttack said:


> It sounds like good stuff, I'm just apprehensive about using it when the rubber pickup line is present. Any other saw I'd just remove the lines and try the Berrymans.


I havent had it tear up rubber carb parts, but I am not saying you won't have a problem.


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## MacAttack (Jan 14, 2020)

bwalker said:


> I havent had it tear up rubber carb parts, but I am not saying you won't have a problem.



I'm usually a "try it and see what happens" type but I'm dealing with a 59 year old rubber pickup line that requires removing a lot of stuff to replace, so I'm treading lightly. I will most likely get a can of the stuff for my various other carb cleaning tasks.


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## Okie (Jan 15, 2020)

Cleaning out gas tanks is not a fun thing, but to cut down on labor and reduce the messy situation I use a redneck method of tumbling the tanks.

To get a good cleaning inside the bad/rusty and gooey ones I strap the tank to the rear wheel of my Farm Tractor.

Scotch the tractor good, jack up one rear wheel and place axle on blocks. (make sure the tractor is secure so as it don't drive itself away when you are not around) Apply padding, such as old carpet) to the tank so as it's not scrubbing on metal tractor rim and strap securely in place with cap located so as the tank can be examined, drained and fresh cleaner added as needed. Pieces of the old porch chain is good for inside because it has sharp edges. Let the engine idle and select the tumbling speed by using different gears and listen to the chain rattling inside. If too fast the chain won't tumble inside. If you are careful and the tank is small you can strap it in place while the tractor is being used. I also use this method for cleaning the inside of large automobile tanks before epoxy coating the insides. (old vintage tanks that are no longer available) With the tank slowly tumbling on the tractor wheel I can go do other things and check on the process later.


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## MacAttack (Jan 15, 2020)

Okie said:


> Cleaning out gas tanks is not a fun thing, but to cut down on labor and reduce the messy situation I use a redneck method of tumbling the tanks.
> 
> To get a good cleaning inside the bad/rusty and gooey ones I strap the tank to the rear wheel of my Farm Tractor.
> 
> Scotch the tractor good, jack up one rear wheel and place axle on blocks. (make sure the tractor is secure so as it don't drive itself away when you are not around) Apply padding, such as old carpet) to the tank so as it's not scrubbing on metal tractor rim and strap securely in place with cap located so as the tank can be examined, drained and fresh cleaner added as needed. Pieces of the old porch chain is good for inside because it has sharp edges. Let the engine idle and select the tumbling speed by using different gears and listen to the chain rattling inside. If too fast the chain won't tumble inside. If you are careful and the tank is small you can strap it in place while the tractor is being used. I also use this method for cleaning the inside of large automobile tanks before epoxy coating the insides. (old vintage tanks that are no longer available) With the tank slowly tumbling on the tractor wheel I can go do other things and check on the process later.



This is one of the most glorious examples of backyard ingenuity I've seen, haha. My dad and i used to bolt a large reel of cable to our tractor wheel jacked off the ground to use as a giant winch to bail a gas well. 

"Runaway tractor with chainsaw attached to wheel goes on rampage"


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