# Kohler vs. Onan vs. Generac????



## rev_2004 (Jan 27, 2014)

I am looking into purchasing a wholehouse generator. Just curious as to others thoughts on the different brands here. Looking @ 20kw generator. From what I have read else where Onan/Cummins is probably the better of the three. As far as Kohler vs. Generac I keep getting mixed reviews and I am sure some of them are biased opinions. I am aware that Generac controls about 70% of the residential market but, they are also about 10% less. Curious as to wether or not anyone here has personal experience witb them or not?


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## jhellwig (Jan 27, 2014)

I am an electrician and was researching getting into selling generators a few years ago. Everything I read about brands for home standby generators came down to one thing, availability of parts and service. Every name brand out there will work just fine if you use it like it is intended to be used. I would go with one that you can get parts and service locally. They all have their weaknesses and strengths. 

I looked mostly at kohlers cause that is what my supply house sells. They seam sturdy. The onans I have been around are built very well.


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## dave_376 (Jan 27, 2014)

my opinion is to get a Propane/Natural gas generator or 2nd choice diesel and avoid any headaches from bad gas and they will be cheaper to run 24/7 during a power outage! I looking into buying a big unit also but didn't have the cash, I purchased a china knockoff and it has been good. My only complaint is that you need to check the nuts and bolts to make sure they are tight.


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## rancher2 (Jan 27, 2014)

I have been around a lot of differant generator setups. diesel, Lp, Gas ,PTO most are older with not a lot of run time on them. It always comes down to parts. Of the three you have looked at I have been able to get parts for older onan's. Generac and kohler are hard to get parts for the older gen sets. That been said I just bought a 10,000 watt Generac for my own use. It was dirt cheap and hadn't been run in years the carb was all gummed and rusted up. Got it runnning and it works great. Buy you a onan LP or Nat if you have the funds. You won't be sorry.


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## NSMaple1 (Jan 27, 2014)

Why so big?


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## Oliver1655 (Jan 27, 2014)

The size depends on what your needs are. For those of us in rural locations with our own wells the needs will be higher than those who are on a public water system. Is your hot water heater electric? What about your furnace, cook stove, ...


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## rev_2004 (Jan 27, 2014)

Thanks for your input everyone. NSMaple1 .........I live in the country and am the last one on my line as far as power goes. So if any thing happens I am out no matter what. I also am total electric. I do heat house & DHW with OWB. I also have a heat pump & electric back-up furnace. I would like to be able to use those if something happens to boiler when it is 0 deg. out or maybe when I am older and I cant keep up with OWB. Dryer, washer, dishwasher, well pump, freezer, refridgerator, 2 small fridges, stove, grinder(pump) for basement bathroom, lights, & hot water heater if boiler quits. Maybe a barn in the future.


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## NSMaple1 (Jan 27, 2014)

I'm in the boonies with a well pump. I just sold my 5500/8500 Genny because it was way more than we need, the kW used per gallon was just too much. The only times we're drawing more than 2000w is when laundry is being done or the stove is being used. Both of which don't need to be done during an outage. Right now we're using 950w with the big screen on, 3 people browsing, and various lights on. House is 72 throughout. I'm shopping for a 3000w inverter genny. We can go for a couple days on what's in the pressure tank, if that needs replenished I can unplug everything except the well pump until that's done. Heat & hot water is wood fired. Most houses with backup genny's have way more genny than needed.

Edit: I will admit though that I didn't sell my genny until I monitored my usage for a week or so - I'd likely suggest everybody do that before buying too.


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## Halligan (Jan 27, 2014)

I moved into a new to me house this past summer and installed a whole house generator that runs off propane. I looked at Kohler and Generac and ended up with a 20kw Kohler. The installer is a big time generator dealer for both residential and commercial. He services all brands and in his opinion the Kohler's are better than Generac so he sells Kohler. 

Aside from the hefty price I'm happy with the unit. I have it set up to self test every two weeks for 20 minutes. It comes in a nice composite enclosure that won't corrode. 

With my job I may be gone for a couple of days when natural disasters strike and I like the piece of mind knowing the wife and kids will have power in my absence.


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## HuskStihl (Jan 27, 2014)

i have a generac and have been very happy with its performance. the way a standby generator works, they should last nearly forever. The whole house setup is the way to go, preferably with the automatic switching (no fun to be out at 3am in the thunderstorm turning on your generator). Generators are fairly cheap with regards to increasing the output, just be aware that bigger ones eat lots more NG/propane.


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## zogger (Jan 27, 2014)

Whichever, gasoline ones..well..you need a lot of gas in extended outages. go diesel or propane. and don't count on being able to go to the station and buy any, plan on already having bulk fuel before the fact of needing it.

Same deal here, last guy on the string, power goes out or we get blips of dirty power all the time.

I mean I know better, I just have a cheap gas one, but it is all I could afford. If I had my druthers, propane or diesel.


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## HuskStihl (Jan 27, 2014)

Also make sure you factor in the AC. Where we live, you lose power due to hurricanes, which take out power for a week at a time, and usually when it's hot as ****. Hard to keep stay happy at 100 degrees with no AC. If ur outages are just a few hours then it's a different ballgame


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## rev_2004 (Jan 27, 2014)

I am def. looking at LP. The next question becomes between Air cooled vs. Liquid cooled? Most stand-by generators up to 20kw are air cooled. Anything over that is a Whole House generator from what I read and is liquid cooled. My question is it worth almost double the money for a liquid cooled generator? I know life expectancy is a lot longer on liquid-cooled. Also the stand-by (air cooled) says can shut down if they get to hot as in summer time. Like maybe they are meant to run only a few hours at a time. Is this correct?


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## NSMaple1 (Jan 27, 2014)

HuskStihl said:


> Also make sure you factor in the AC. Where we live, you lose power due to hurricanes, which take out power for a week at a time, and usually when it's hot as ****. Hard to keep stay happy at 100 degrees with no AC. If ur outages are just a few hours then it's a different ballgame



True that.


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## dieselfitter (Jan 27, 2014)

My advice, decide the fuel source to narrow your options to specific models. Then compare engines between the various models. Essentially you are buying and engine that comes with a gen head and enclosure. Once you have narrowed it down to specific engine make and models, come back for relevant advice.


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## John R (Jan 27, 2014)

I have a 20 KW Generac hooked up at my house, I installed it in July of 2012, no problems at all, Ran it for 8 hours under load when I installed it, done an oil & filter change and good to go.
Had a few 24+ hour power outages and it does it's job perfectly.


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## Vermonster (Jan 28, 2014)

We have a 10kw Generac LP gen. Installed in 1998. Auto transfer switch after about 30 sec. Runs for about 15 mins/week to keep the battery charged. Bullet proof to date.


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## LarryRFL (Jan 28, 2014)

While you are checking out different brands, check out Winco. They've been in the business forever and make reliable, high quality units in the USA. Personally, I believe they are better than Generac, Kohler or Onan. Onan are overpriced on parts. Generac is often referred to as Genecrap by the techs I know. Kohler falls somewhere in between, but limited on where you can get generator parts. Winco people have always been very helpful whenever I have called them with any questions and they know their stuff. Have dealt with them off and on since the mid '80's. If I wanted to buy something I know will work and last I wouldn't hesitate with Winco.


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## HuskStihl (Jan 28, 2014)

I bet the quality/reliability will depend on the model. At least for the larger generacs, their motors are just borrowed from the automotive industry. Mine has a Mitsubishi 4 banger which performed reliably in the car world. A few steps up had what looked like a 5L ford V8. The generac was also much less expensive than a kohler when I priced 'em, and I'm a cheap bastard.

Vermonster, I prolly asked before, but where in NW are you?


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## esshup (Jan 28, 2014)

We had a 20kw Generac installed at Mom & Dads house. Runs on LP. IIRC it was installed in 2010. Dad was wondering the first 2 years if they really needed it, as they were told that the power rarely goes out where they live, and it's only out for a short time if it does go out. The last 2 years, it's been used for about 130 hours total. He's not wondering now. Auto on, transfer switch, etc.

With that said, how often should the battery be changed? It self tests and runs for IIRC 10-15 minutes once a week.


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## brenndatomu (Jan 28, 2014)

rev_2004 said:


> I am def. looking at LP. The next question becomes between Air cooled vs. Liquid cooled? Most stand-by generators up to 20kw are air cooled. Anything over that is a Whole House generator from what I read and is liquid cooled. My question is it worth almost double the money for a liquid cooled generator? I know life expectancy is a lot longer on liquid-cooled. Also the stand-by (air cooled) says can shut down if they get to hot as in summer time. Like maybe they are meant to run only a few hours at a time. Is this correct?


Another advantage to liquid cooled, air cooled has a lot of real nice places for varmits to move in, they block air flow, motor gets hot...well, you can figure it out from here


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## Preston (Jan 28, 2014)

What size do y'all use with the well pump and everything else. I had a 6600 Yamaha that would not run the well and the heat pump along with the rest of the house.


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## HuskStihl (Jan 28, 2014)

If I remember right they had a formula on their website taking into account all the stuff you want to run, including the starting amperages. Being unskilled, I had an electrician wire (wahr) mine, and he added up the AC, pump, aerobic, appliances and came up with a number


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## dieselfitter (Jan 28, 2014)

If anyone is interested, I have a 10kw genset to sell. It is powered by a 3 cylinder Perkins 1.5 liter diesel engine. It is mounted an a nice trailer equipped with electric brakes, $2500.


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## John R (Jan 28, 2014)

dieselfitter said:


> If anyone is interested, I have a 10kw genset to sell. It is powered by a 3 cylinder Perkins 1.5 liter diesel engine. It is mounted an a nice trailer equipped with electric brakes, $2500.


 
How far into Mn are you?
I am in Michigan.


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## dieselfitter (Jan 28, 2014)

John R said:


> How far into Mn are you?
> I am in Michigan.


I am near Minneapolis


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## 7hpjim (Jan 28, 2014)

NSMaple1 said:


> I'm in the boonies with a well pump. I just sold my 5500/8500 Genny because it was way more than we need, the kW used per gallon was just too much. The only times we're drawing more than 2000w is when laundry is being done or the stove is being used. Both of which don't need to be done during an outage. Right now we're using 950w with the big screen on, 3 people browsing, and various lights on. House is 72 throughout. I'm shopping for a 3000w inverter genny. We can go for a couple days on what's in the pressure tank, if that needs replenished I can unplug everything except the well pump until that's done. Heat & hot water is wood fired. Most houses with backup genny's have way more genny than needed.
> 
> Edit: I will admit though that I didn't sell my genny until I monitored my usage for a week or so - I'd likely suggest everybody do that before buying too.


how long is your avg outage, ours is normally 3-5 days, nice to have the kws available when it stretches to 10-14 days


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## NSMaple1 (Jan 29, 2014)

We used to have 2-3 day outages a few times a winter. The last couple few winters though either the power company has gotten better with their maintenance, or we've been really lucky - the longest I can remember in the last two winters was less than a day. Maybe 10 hours? This winter it''s only been 3 -4 hours, once. There were some though only a couple hours away that had multi-day outages a couple months ago. To us it just isn't worth the big investment - we can get by very well with 3kw for days. After a day or two, keeping it in fuel can be a bigger issue than not having power. If we had propane or NG, that would be different. As it is, the little propane we do have (two 20 pounders) serves us much better being hooked to the BBQ if we need to cook something.


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## savageactor7 (Jan 29, 2014)

We also had a difficult time in deciding between a diesel or LP generator. Gas was easily ruled out because of fuel storage and the scrambling for fuel in a real emergency.

In the end we got the smallest whole house LP gen required to meet our needs in an emergency situation...

...cause it will go for a long time on that 250 gal tank. And even longer if we decide to really hunker down and ration energy. 

Pretty sure it's an 8k, has dedicated circuits that are tied in to the house circuit box, auto- turn on, and a once a week self test. Being empty nesters the first couple of times we needed it I had to search for what was NOT working. We got the Generic because other folks around here like them.


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## krushing73 (Jan 29, 2014)

rev_2004 said:


> I am def. looking at LP. The next question becomes between Air cooled vs. Liquid cooled? Most stand-by generators up to 20kw are air cooled. Anything over that is a Whole House generator from what I read and is liquid cooled. My question is it worth almost double the money for a liquid cooled generator? I know life expectancy is a lot longer on liquid-cooled. Also the stand-by (air cooled) says can shut down if they get to hot as in summer time. Like maybe they are meant to run only a few hours at a time. Is this correct?


Liquid cooled are way more expensive but are normally quieter and require fewer oil changes. Down south where we might lose power for two weeks in August, its worth buying a liquid cooled. Up north you would probably be happy with an air-cooled generator with cold weather starting kit. If your air-cooled splitter, snow blower, etc performs well, so will your air cooled generator. The air-cooled models only hold about a quart of oil which I think is dumb. Never understood why they don't offer a bigger external oil tank. Oil changes are quick and easy if you don't mind braving the elements and shutting it off for 10 minutes. If you go for liquid cooled , look for an 1800 rpm engine. Vs 3600.


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## Mad Professor (Jan 29, 2014)

I've been looking at refurbished military diesel units. They are designed to run in the heat, cold or high altitude 24/7. Can be had with sound suppression and cold weather kits. They come with built in fuel pumps that you can run a hose to an external tank (275-gal oil tank) or 55-gal drums.

Only thing I'm concerned about is if things get real cold and the fuel jelling. Could get a few drums of kerosene just in case.


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## Mad Professor (Jan 29, 2014)

I've been looking at refurbished military diesel units. They are designed to run in the heat, cold or high altitude 24/7. Can be had with sound suppression and cold weather kits. They come with built in fuel pumps that you can run a hose to an external tank (275-gal oil tank) or 55-gal drums.

Only thing I'm concerned about is if things get real cold and the fuel jelling. Could get a few drums of kerosene just in case.


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## rev_2004 (Jan 30, 2014)

Thanks for all the info & help. I dont think I want a Generac but, I have decided it is between Kohler, Onan, & Winco. Also have decided that although I think liquid would be the best route to go it is a little bit to expensive. I think I will stick with a air cooled. Supposed to be meeting with a couple different guys on each brand. Will let you know what I decide.


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## krushing73 (Jan 31, 2014)

One other bit of generator advise is put the generator under full load at least once a season for long enough to heat it up and really test it. I hear a lot of folks who's generators crank during the run tests but fail when they need it. I caught a problem with mine last summer when it got hot. The intake and exhaust gaskets were rotten and it overheated after 20 minutes under load. Would have never noticed it during test mode. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rev_2004 (Feb 1, 2014)

krushing73 said:


> One other bit of generator advise is put the generator under full load at least once a season for long enough to heat it up and really test it. I hear a lot of folks who's generators crank during the run tests but fail when they need it. I caught a problem with mine last summer when it got hot. The intake and exhaust gaskets were rotten and it overheated after 20 minutes under load. Would have never noticed it during test mode.
> Thanks for the advice.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mad Professor (Feb 1, 2014)

Or kn


krushing73 said:


> One other bit of generator advise is put the generator under full load at least once a season for long enough to heat it up and really test it. I hear a lot of folks who's generators crank during the run tests but fail when they need it. I caught a problem with mine last summer when it got hot. The intake and exhaust gaskets were rotten and it overheated after 20 minutes under load. Would have never noticed it during test mode.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


or know how to spark it with a battery to restore the polarity

Old timers know how to do this for their tractors and truck gennys


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## krushing73 (Feb 1, 2014)

Mad Professor said:


> Or kn
> 
> or know how to spark it with a battery to restore the polarity
> 
> Old timers know how to do this for their tractors and truck gennys


I've read about that but never had to do it. My 17kw briggs has two huge donut gaskets made of foam rubber one on the intake air side and one on the exhaust. They keep the motor from recirculating the hot air in the case. I'd check those things every year. If you see any foam rubber in the bottom of the generator, it time to get new donut gaskets. I think all the air cooled units have them. 
As you can imagine rats and squirrels love them.


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## firebrick43 (Feb 1, 2014)

Diesel storage can be a pain to as you can get algae in the tank and water vapor. Propane can be stored forever with no issues. Propane if you own the tank is much cheaper( 99% of the time) to boot. Also propane will give you twice the oil change life than gas or diesel. As far as air cooled vs water cooled. If you plan on running 1000 hours a year, a 1800 rpm liquid cooled, 100 hours a year then go with a 3600 liquid cooled. If realistically you will only use it the typical 20-50 hours a year then aircooled. If you know you will probably move in 5-7 years get a transfer switch and portable as you will never get your money out of it. the units controls will be unavailble for purchase more than likely in 20 years on any residential system so dont plan on the motor/ genny lasting longer.


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## VancleVector (Jul 10, 2018)

I've had little success in more appropriate RV forums, so thought I'd try here. I have a 20kW Kohler diesel generator on my RV with remote radiator (in lower bay next to generator). The coolant will get to 240 (according to gauge) on really hot days and when I go back to turn it off, its boiling out of the overflow tube on the plastic reservoir. There is a black reservoir on the unit itself with a 16lb cap, new thermostat. Now it may be that I'm not getting enough airflow across the radiator coils (1HP squirrel cage blowing hard), but I am looking for other reasons that the coolant in that plastic reservoir would be boiling repeatedly and the generator itself seems fine and not shutting down from its overtemp control.


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## rancher2 (Jul 10, 2018)

VancleVector said:


> I've had little success in more appropriate RV forums, so thought I'd try here. I have a 20kW Kohler diesel generator on my RV with remote radiator (in lower bay next to generator). The coolant will get to 240 (according to gauge) on really hot days and when I go back to turn it off, its boiling out of the overflow tube on the plastic reservoir. There is a black reservoir on the unit itself with a 16lb cap, new thermostat. Now it may be that I'm not getting enough airflow across the radiator coils (1HP squirrel cage blowing hard), but I am looking for other reasons that the coolant in that plastic reservoir would be boiling repeatedly and the generator itself seems fine and not shutting down from its overtemp control.


Have you checked the cap to make sure it is working at the proper psi rating. I would shoot the system with a temp gun and see if it is running 240 that is very warm for a diesel motor. Is this a factory install or a add on? Are you losing coolant and having to add?


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## dieselfitter (Jul 10, 2018)

VancleVector said:


> I've had little success in more appropriate RV forums, so thought I'd try here. I have a 20kW Kohler diesel generator on my RV with remote radiator (in lower bay next to generator). The coolant will get to 240 (according to gauge) on really hot days and when I go back to turn it off, its boiling out of the overflow tube on the plastic reservoir. There is a black reservoir on the unit itself with a 16lb cap, new thermostat. Now it may be that I'm not getting enough airflow across the radiator coils (1HP squirrel cage blowing hard), but I am looking for other reasons that the coolant in that plastic reservoir would be boiling repeatedly and the generator itself seems fine and not shutting down from its overtemp control.


20kw? It that a 4.154 or 4.154/200 series? If you don't know, post some pics of the engine, especially the injection pump area.


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## Huskybill (Jul 10, 2018)

I been wanting to do it but right now it’s a Hobart 200amp/100% duty cycle with 4,000 watt generator. Being a welder it serves two purposes. But I been looking at a new welder with a 9,000watt or 10,000watt generator. Now the question is gas, propane, diesel.? I’m thinking diesel. If I don’t use it, it must be run at least once a week. At work we had a big CAT diesel powered generator to run the whole building even the elevators. It’s a monster. We ran it once a week. It shook the 30 story building at the first floor.

The last power outage we had lasted a week and a half. I also have a Coleman 3500watt generator. I ran my fridge and keurig coffee maker. As long as I get my morning coffee I’m ok.


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## Huskybill (Jul 10, 2018)

Vermonster said:


> We have a 10kw Generac LP gen. Installed in 1998. Auto transfer switch after about 30 sec. Runs for about 15 mins/week to keep the battery charged. Bullet proof to date.



I have a camp in wilds of Rochester,vt I ran it on 8, 6 volt deep cycle emergency lighting batteries with a solar charger and a 4hp gas engine with a alternator. The solar wasn’t big enough but testing the system proved it can be done.


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## sb47 (Jul 15, 2018)

If I was looking for a whole house gen I would want a diesel unit over all others. LP is les efficient and requires more gas then you think. It gets about the same millage as pump gas.
I would chose diesel because it has a long shelf life and gets better millage over gas or lp and you don't have the fuel issues like you do with gas. Lp is a dry fuel and has zero additives to prevent premature wear on the motor. The next big thing is it needs to have a inverter for clean power. You also want one that has a power regulator so when you are using les power the gen runs at a lower power output. 
I have several Hondas and they have a echo switch that idles down the gen when power draw is lower, then when to turn something else on it idles up as needed.


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## SLV-JIM (Jul 17, 2018)

A big 20 kv generator is going to use a lot of fuel and make noise at night. I use a 6 circuit transfer switch and a honda Eu 3000 for essential house circuits. It can run 24/7 and sip fuel. Can't even hear it run at night. I then have a 10k generac for the well and electric water heater. The generac only needs to run about a hour a day.This saves a lot of fuel. For 240 volt use I also like the Honda eu7000 with fuel injection. I think load sharing is the key.


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## sb47 (Jul 20, 2018)

SLV-JIM said:


> A big 20 kv generator is going to use a lot of fuel and make noise at night. I use a 6 circuit transfer switch and a honda Eu 3000 for essential house circuits. It can run 24/7 and sip fuel. Can't even hear it run at night. I then have a 10k generac for the well and electric water heater. The generac only needs to run about a hour a day.This saves a lot of fuel. For 240 volt use I also like the Honda eu7000 with fuel injection. I think load sharing is the key.




When using a generator you need to do power management unless you want to wast money on fuel. If I use the gen I always power manage, unlike grid power.
I have 2 Honda eu3000i and love them. There quiet, and sip fuel and are inverter gens. The only draw back is they don't support 240. I would have to look into it but since I have two identical gen's I might could use them as 2 110 legs and get 220. Not sure if that would work.


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## GM_Grimmy (Jul 24, 2018)

I have a 22kw Generac whole house, I think half load is like just over 2 gallon an hour. Everything is automatic, it just turns on and runs. It's not that loud, I can barely hear it in the house, nothing the tv can't drown out.

sb47 I haven't looked into that specific model, but if there's parallel ports on it, you can. If not, I wouldn't try it, as they don't share a neutral. You can do that with the 2000 and 2200 I know.


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## sb47 (Jul 24, 2018)

GM_Grimmy said:


> I have a 22kw Generac whole house, I think half load is like just over 2 gallon an hour. Everything is automatic, it just turns on and runs. It's not that loud, I can barely hear it in the house, nothing the tv can't drown out.
> 
> sb47 I haven't looked into that specific model, but if there's parallel ports on it, you can. If not, I wouldn't try it, as they don't share a neutral. You can do that with the 2000 and 2200 I know.



Two gallons an hour? My eu3000is will run 10/12 hours on 3 gallons of fuel. 2 gallons an hour seem like a lot of fuel. There is an optional kit that will allow you to connect 2 gens together for more output. I don't know if will allow 220 operation or just more 110 power from 2 units. You can link 2 units but I'm not sure 2 eu3000is's will give you 220.

https://powerequipment.honda.com/generators/models/eu3000is


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## Huskybill (Jul 24, 2018)

Oman engine parts are very expensive.


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## sb47 (Jul 24, 2018)

Just talked to a factory rep and you can link 2 eu3000is's together but you still only get 110. There not designed for 220 operation. You have to move up to the eu7000 for 220 operation.


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## Huskybill (Jul 24, 2018)

My Hobart gas engine welder has 110v & 220v. I think the 220v is 27 amps. Not much. I’m leaning towards a big welder.


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## sb47 (Jul 24, 2018)

Huskybill said:


> My Hobart gas engine welder has 110v & 220v. I think the 220v is 27 amps. Not much. I’m leaning towards a big welder.



There's pro's and con's to all of them. It all boils down to what your gonna use it for most of the time. Mine are for camping and back up power for the home.
I have a dedicated line from my shop that runs to the back of my house. I only run the basics on gen power and use extension cords to hook things up. The runs are very short and not a big issue when the power goes out.
After one of our hurricanes we lost power for almost 3 weeks. I had one 5000watt Tractor Supply special and one Honda eu3000is. I used one gen and put the other on my mothers house. The Honda was quiet and very fuel efficient compared to the TS gen. The TS gen drank fuel like a dragster while the Honda sipped it like fine wine. I sold the TS gen and bought another Honda.
The amount of fuel the TS gen used did not offset the cost. You have to factor in how much your gonna use it and how much fuel they consume over time. I spent as much in fuel running the TS gen then I spent on the more expensive Honda. Over time the fuel consumption becomes a bigger factor then most realize.


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## sb47 (Jul 24, 2018)

The eu3000is will run 8 hours at full power (3000watts) and up 20 hours on echo or 1/4 power, on one tank of fuel (3.5 gallons)
The TS gen (5000watts) didn't have an echo mode and only ran at full throttle all the time and only ran about 6/7 hours on 5 gallons of fuel.
Not a big deal when fuel is 2,25 a gallon, but back when I needed it fuel was almost 5.00 a gallon.


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## CentaurG2 (Jul 24, 2018)

I have a welder with an onan twin and I also have a Honda eu2000 and an eu6500. You can use the welder as a generator but the fuel consumption becomes a huge factor during an extended outage. You are better off throwing out all your food out of the refrigerator than trying to fuel the welder. It also makes an ungodly amount of noise. The Hondas are very expensive but they are so quiet you could use one as a pillow and they just sip fuel on eco throttle. They are also very well designed. The only thing I don’t like about the 6500 is the auto choke otherwise rock-solid machine. The new eu7000 is fuel injected and reported to be even better.


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## GM_Grimmy (Jul 31, 2018)

sb47 said:


> Two gallons an hour? My eu3000is will run 10/12 hours on 3 gallons of fuel. 2 gallons an hour seem like a lot of fuel. There is an optional kit that will allow you to connect 2 gens together for more output. I don't know if will allow 220 operation or just more 110 power from 2 units. You can link 2 units but I'm not sure 2 eu3000is's will give you 220.
> 
> https://powerequipment.honda.com/generators/models/eu3000is



I forgot to mention, I'm running on LP. Also my Generac doesn't change rpm, it just runs at 3600, where you're will idle down as load goes down, that's where a lot of the fuel savings comes from. I checked into one that would vary the rpms, but there were more devices that I had to get, as when a big load device decides to run, it have to give the gen time to idle up so the power is available for that big load to turn on. I've seen my small Yamaha 2kw inverter cough and grunt when it was at an idle and I put a big load on it.


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## sb47 (Jul 31, 2018)

GM_Grimmy said:


> I forgot to mention, I'm running on LP. Also my Generac doesn't change rpm, it just runs at 3600, where you're will idle down as load goes down, that's where a lot of the fuel savings comes from. I checked into one that would vary the rpms, but there were more devices that I had to get, as when a big load device decides to run, it have to give the gen time to idle up so the power is available for that big load to turn on. I've seen my small Yamaha 2kw inverter cough and grunt when it was at an idle and I put a big load on it.



That's why there is a switch to engage the echo mode or not. If your running something that has a big draw when it turns on your not supposed to have it running in echo mode. It's hard on the gen and even harder on the appliance. Mine runs 20 hours on 1/4 load and 8 hours on full load on one tank of fuel. It holds 3 gallons.


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## GM_Grimmy (Jul 31, 2018)

For a portable unit that's great. Not so for a whole house stand along unit.

I've been toying with a second one for my rv when I'm boondocking yet need to be quieter than the built in unit. Will see, flying season is well over half over.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## SS396driver (Jul 31, 2018)

I have an Oman Cummins 8000 watt gas gen electric start . This unit has been bullet proof for 8 years. We have multiple outages a year. Summer and winter it will run our well lights and one electric burner on the stove. Water heater is propane. If we're out for a long period of time I hook up my motorhome has a diesel onan 12500 . Tank is 100 gallons but it only will go to 1/4 tank before cutting the gen so you can't run it dry ,this unit is 15 years old again bullet proof . Pic at the Syracuse nationals last year 2003 Newmar Dutch star with a cat .


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## Marine5068 (Aug 1, 2018)

Halligan said:


> I moved into a new to me house this past summer and installed a whole house generator that runs off propane. I looked at Kohler and Generac and ended up with a 20kw Kohler. The installer is a big time generator dealer for both residential and commercial. He services all brands and in his opinion the Kohler's are better than Generac so he sells Kohler.
> 
> Aside from the hefty price I'm happy with the unit. I have it set up to self test every two weeks for 20 minutes. It comes in a nice composite enclosure that won't corrode.
> 
> With my job I may be gone for a couple of days when natural disasters strike and I like the piece of mind knowing the wife and kids will have power in my absence.


I'm doing the same or plan to at the end of this year.
I also have a job where I'm gone for a day and want my family to be safe and warm or cool too.
My house requirements are for at least a 14,000 kw unit but the 16,000 Generac is cheaper than the 14 so that's the direction we'll go and the 22.000 is only $1000 more so I can do that if I plan to add a fute building on my site as well. They are all WiFi enabled too.
I'm in the country with only electric power available and we've had 3 day outages before, but most are only half day or one day.
Propane is the way to go. It can stand a long long time without going bad and is very efficient fuel.
Was quoted about $6500 plus I'd need a pad and installation.
Nice thing is now with the WiFi units to monitor your system from anywhere.


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## CentaurG2 (Aug 1, 2018)

That’s a lot of power. My eu6500 (5000w) can power everything in my house except the electric dryer and the range. I line dry my clothes so that’s not a problem and I use an imatinib butane stove and /or my weber grill for cooking during outages. I have a gen panel and an outside plug. During the summer, unless I know the outage is going to be for days, I usually don’t even bother to hook up the eu6500. I just grab the little eu2000 suitcase (1500w) and run two extension cords into the house. Plug in the fridge and use the other for whatever. The eu6500 will run 14 hours on 5 gals of fuel. The little suitcase can purr for 8 hours on one gallon. Just need to keep an eye on the hour meter and oil changes.


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