# Poulan 3400 counter vibe



## Magnumfloyd (Dec 29, 2012)

Just got this in running order from a yard sale don't really have a need for it but it runs great and didn't know if any one on here needs a saw to finish any projects






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## hoeyrd2110 (Dec 29, 2012)

what part of jersey are you in?


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## redunshee (Dec 29, 2012)

Real good 56cc saw. Old school Poulan that's just about bullet proof and easy to work on.
Bob


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## sunfish (Dec 29, 2012)

I bought a used one in 1988 and it's still running strong. 

Never had a problem, or even had to replace the fuel line. :msp_biggrin:


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## stihl023/5 (Dec 29, 2012)

How much are you looking to get for it?:msp_confused:


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## jughead500 (Dec 29, 2012)

How much are you asking?


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## redunshee (Dec 29, 2012)

Unfortunately the 3400 is very common on the resale market. Seen them go for as little as $75 in running condition. Worth more but the market is the market.


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## hoeyrd2110 (Dec 29, 2012)

redunshee said:


> Unfortunately the 3400 is very common on the resale market. Seen them go for as little as $75 in running condition. Worth more but the market is the market.



thats why i keep em and don't sell em much more fun to run than most of the newer saws too!


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## Guido Salvage (Dec 29, 2012)

Magnumfloyd said:


> I'm open to all offers though
> 
> Sent from my Slim Photon using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2



If you are looking to sell this you should post in the appropriate forum before you run afoul of the moderators.


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## Magnumfloyd (Dec 29, 2012)

Okay sorry for wrong location


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## Magnumfloyd (Dec 30, 2012)

Haven't got this saw into wood yet but would it cut better then my 026


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## redunshee (Dec 30, 2012)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Haven't got this saw into wood yet but would it cut better then my 026



Not as high revving as an 026 but a lot more grunt


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## hoeyrd2110 (Dec 30, 2012)

put an 18" and full chisel 3/8's on it and you will forget what a 026 even is


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## Eccentric (Dec 30, 2012)

hoeyrd2110 said:


> put an 18" and full chisel 3/8's on it and you will forget what a 026 even is







Yep.


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## fossil (Dec 30, 2012)

hoeyrd2110 said:


> put an 18" and full chisel 3/8's on it and you will forget what a 026 even is



I have both and with 16" bars, 3400 with 3/8 chisel and 026 with 22BPX, both with muffler mods and I would say they are very close. Mind you the 026 compression is at 186 lbs and the 3400 is at 130 lbs. Two of my favourite saws.
The 3400 is from the era when Poulan built pro saws. An amazing saw from an earlier time.

Try and find a good running 026 for $50.


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## Eccentric (Dec 30, 2012)

fossil said:


> I have both and with 16" bars, 3400 with 3/8 chisel and 026 with 22BPX, both with muffler mods and I would say they are very close. Mind you the 026 compression is at 186 lbs and the 3400 is at 130 lbs. Two of my favourite saws.
> The 3400 is from the era when Poulan built pro saws. An amazing saw from an earlier time.
> 
> Try and find a good running 026 for $50.



...........and then there's the larger displacement 3800, 3700, PP375, PP395, and 4000 Poulans on the same chassis. Not really any heavier than the 3400, and much more beans than the stihl.


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## ckelp (Dec 30, 2012)

aaron, is that one you where talking about that was on CL?


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## Eccentric (Dec 30, 2012)

ckelp said:


> aaron, is that one you where talking about that was on CL?



You mean the 3800? Haven't called that guy. The 3400 in my pic above isn't in my possession anymore. With a different AF cover, clutch cover, handlebar, starter handle, bar nuts, and B/C.................that saw sold on ebay last month. It now belongs to a guy in Va. That 18" bar and chain now belong to an AS member in Mo.


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## Magnumfloyd (Dec 30, 2012)

So it should handle bigger wood better then my 026 is stock to many opinions on muffler mods have me confused 

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## hoeyrd2110 (Dec 30, 2012)

yeah a 3400 will handle a 20" much better than a 026


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## Eccentric (Dec 30, 2012)

Magnumfloyd said:


> So it should handle bigger wood better then my 026 is stock to many opinions on muffler mods have me confused
> 
> Sent from my Slim Photon using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2



Yes. It will be comfortable with 'bigger wood' than your 026. Not to a great degree, but the difference is there. The 3400 will respond very well to a muffler mod (and a retune afterwards) as well.


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## hoeyrd2110 (Dec 30, 2012)

a heavy handed person like myself will notice the difference much more than someone who isn't a heavy handed. most of the ones around here i see have the 20" and .325 and serve as the "big" house hold saw for firewood. both great saws. if your trekking through the woods for long periods of time carrying the saw by hand, then a no brainer would be 026 for weight. if your in the back yard bucking stuff then 3400. or just keep both and have a saw for each situation:msp_thumbsup:

this is mine with the 20" and .325 before i swapped it over, with this setup it was comparable to a farm boss with alil extra torque, but with the 3/8's it's a whole new animal
View attachment 270443


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## Magnumfloyd (Dec 30, 2012)

That's what I was thinking keep both put a 20" on the Poulan for bucking

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## mels (Dec 30, 2012)

Have had my 4400 with a 30" Sandvik Windsor bar since new, right arout 1980 I think. Saw just runs like an animal.

Like my 1940 John Deere B, or 1925 Galloway 3 horse or the 6 horse hit n miss engines, or the old Harley Shovelhead engines, that old Poulan saw makes me want to just start it up once in a while to hear it run. Music, I tell you.

Good on you for rescuing that 3400 and giving it a happy home.


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## Guido Salvage (Dec 30, 2012)

fossil said:


> Try and find a good running 026 for $50.



This one was only $45.00, does that count? :hmm3grin2orange:







I need to gather up all my 3400's for a picture some time.

Here are a couple of mine with bows. They might work in pine pulpwood, but that is about it.


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## fossil (Dec 30, 2012)

Guido Salvage said:


> This one was only $45.00, does that count? :hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Magnumfloyd (Dec 30, 2012)

I already asked him for more 026 at that price 

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## fossil (Dec 30, 2012)

Magnumfloyd said:


> I already asked him for more 026 at that price
> 
> Sent from my Slim Photon using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2



I'd love to get ten or so at that price and trade them for Poulans


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## Guido Salvage (Dec 30, 2012)

fossil said:


> Guido Salvage said:
> 
> 
> > This one was only $45.00, does that count? :hmm3grin2orange:
> ...


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## fearofpavement (Dec 30, 2012)

I sold a running 3400 with an 18" bar on the Atlanta CL a while back (maybe 3 months?) for $110. Guy came and cut some with it and shelled out the bucks. Told him my price was firm, take it or leave it. Also made it clear that there was no warranty with it but he could cut up as much stuff as he wanted to be sure it was what I said. I know that one with a bow for $225 won't sell as there was one listed on there forever. (maybe a year or more...)

I also have an 026. The 3400 has a lot of grunt for its weight but keep in mind that the 026 has less cc's and also has a chainbrake which adds a bit of weight. So I think the 026 power to weight ratio is better but those Countervibes will go and go and go.

I also sold a 3.7 (3700 in red) but that saw was a serious cutter too. Had a 4000 with a bow on it and it also went to an arboristsite member (don't remember who). All out of Countervibes at the moment but I would grab another if I could buy it cheap enough to make it worth flipping.

To the OP, post up your saw in the classifieds (which is now listed as "auctions" at the top of the page) and then find the appropriate category, give a good description, add your pictures and it'll go bye bye.


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## Magnumfloyd (Dec 30, 2012)

Your love for Poulan is that strong 

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## OhioGregg (Dec 31, 2012)

mels said:


> Have had my 4400 with a 30" Sandvik Windsor bar since new, right arout 1980 I think. Saw just runs like an animal.
> 
> Like my 1940 John Deere B, or 1925 Galloway 3 horse or the 6 horse hit n miss engines, or the old Harley Shovelhead engines, that old Poulan saw makes me want to just start it up once in a while to hear it run. Music, I tell you.
> 
> Good on you for rescuing that 3400 and giving it a happy home.



mels, I see your from Brookfield Ct. I bought my first Poulan, a 3400 in Brookfield at a *** place called the Tractor Barn, in 1986.
Just curious if the place is still in buisness. I have a sister that lives in that neck of the woods, but I havn't been back to Ct. since 1987.


Gregg,


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## redunshee (Dec 31, 2012)

hoeyrd2110 said:


> a heavy handed person like myself will notice the difference much more than someone who isn't a heavy handed. most of the ones around here i see have the 20" and .325 and serve as the "big" house hold saw for firewood. both great saws. if your trekking through the woods for long periods of time carrying the saw by hand, then a no brainer would be 026 for weight. if your in the back yard bucking stuff then 3400. or just keep both and have a saw for each situation:msp_thumbsup:
> 
> this is mine with the 20" and .325 before i swapped it over, with this setup it was comparable to a farm boss with alil extra torque, but with the 3/8's it's a whole new animal
> View attachment 270443



New one on me. Never kneew the 3400 came with a .325 pitch.


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## hoeyrd2110 (Dec 31, 2012)

redunshee said:


> New one on me. Never kneew the 3400 came with a .325 pitch.



my buddy worked at philadelphia toro and it was one of the first 50 3400's they got, it was a demo saw he got for cheap after they brought em back from the dealer circuit. .325 20" was how it was delivered from poulan. i always thought it was weird myself .325 is a waste on a saw with torque not enough grab. almost all the 3400's that have come through my shop have been 18-20" .325


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## Chris J. (Dec 31, 2012)

Magnumfloyd, give the 3400 a chance before you decide to sell it.






Guido Salvage said:


> This one was only $45.00, does that count? :hmm3grin2orange:
> ...



Gary, that was a great find, a 026 for the exceptionally great price of $45.00. How many other 026s have you found for $45.00 or less ?


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## Magnumfloyd (Dec 31, 2012)

So I just took out the poulan and made a few cuts wow was I surprised it only has a 16" bar and a safety chain and I believe that it's faster then my 026 I know it has more cc's but I was still surprised


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## mels (Dec 31, 2012)

OhioGregg said:


> mels, I see your from Brookfield Ct. I bought my first Poulan, a 3400 in Brookfield at a *** place called the Tractor Barn, in 1986. Just curious if the place is still in buisness. I have a sister that lives in that neck of the woods, but I havn't been back to Ct. since 1987.  Gregg,



Gregg, Tractor Barn is where mine found me too. They closed up shop a number of years ago, and long story just a couple years ago the barn was torn down and another built about 50' behind it.

Shame, actually. Was a cool place to shoot the bull.


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## Magnumfloyd (Dec 31, 2012)

Is it okay to run 50:1 in this saw

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## hoeyrd2110 (Dec 31, 2012)

For an older saw i would recommend 32:1.


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## Guido Salvage (Dec 31, 2012)

Chris J. said:


> Gary, that was a great find, a 026 for the exceptionally great price of $45.00. How many other 026s have you found for $45.00 or less ?



Ran out of 026's to buy at ridiculous prices so I had to pick up this 200T for $35.00.






Paid $300.00 for everything that you see on the bed of the truck. Sold the two trimmers for $130.00 each leaving me with $40.00 in the rest.


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## Magnumfloyd (Dec 31, 2012)

Nice 200t its not a saw but i got this blower for 20






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## Modifiedmark (Jan 1, 2013)

hoeyrd2110 said:


> my buddy worked at philadelphia toro and it was one of the first 50 3400's they got, it was a demo saw he got for cheap after they brought em back from the dealer circuit. .325 20" was how it was delivered from poulan. i always thought it was weird myself .325 is a waste on a saw with torque not enough grab. almost all the 3400's that have come through my shop have been 18-20" .325




Interesting, I was working at a Poulan dealer at the time the 3400's came out. Never seen one with .325 and never seen it mentioned in a IPL either. What bars did they have on them? I'm not sure I ever seen a D176 bar in .325 either. 




hoeyrd2110 said:


> For an older saw i would recommend 32:1.



Why all the oil? I run all my old Poulans now that were originally specked out at 16-1 at 50-1 now. 

You my perfer 32-1 but I have running proof that its not needed.


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## Eccentric (Jan 1, 2013)

Modifiedmark said:


> Interesting, I was working at a Poulan dealer at the time the 3400's came out. Never seen one with .325 and never seen it mentioned in a IPL either. What bars did they have on them? I'm not sure I ever seen a D176 bar in .325 either.
> 
> 
> Why all the oil? I run all my old Poulans now that were originally specked out at 16-1 at 50-1 now.
> ...



Have you ever seen a D096/D196 or UXL bar in .325 pitch Mark? I haven't.............but it's possible that the 3400's in question were outfitted with .325 pitch bars in that mount (with the 's' clip) instead of D176 mount bars. My late production 306A (from around the time of the first 3400's) has a 20" UXL mount 3/8" pitch Windsor bar with the 's' clip. Looks like it was sold that way...

He can run more oil if it makes him feel better. I run 40/1 with good synthetic in every two stroke engine I have. I agree that 50/1 with good synthetic oil is fine..................but I can't bring myself to do it. Heck.............it took me a LONG time to move away from 32/1, as that's what I'd ran in my 2-stroke motorcycles and such in the 1980's.....:cool2:


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## belgian (Jan 1, 2013)

I got a 3400 not so long ago but was surprised to find that the crank bearings had quite a bit of radial play and obviously worn cranks seals (air leak). And the saw was not used that much, judging by its condition. Just a bit curious why these green Poulans are su much liked at AS.


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## Freakingstang (Jan 1, 2013)

because they were American made runners! people that brought up and supported this country bought poulan and homelight, back in the day before people thought of those german saws as the norm, not to mention that most people didn't know about that sewing machine company. 

It was the 261 of its day, the 4500 the 362 of its day and the. by todays standards, folks would prolly cringe just the thought of running one....


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## redunshee (Jan 1, 2013)

belgian said:


> I got a 3400 not so long ago but was surprised to find that the crank bearings had quite a bit of radial play and obviously worn cranks seals (air leak). And the saw was not used that much, judging by its condition. Just a bit curious why these green Poulans are su much liked at AS.



Surprising. Must have been owner induced. I've had/worked on a lot of 3400/3700 saws and have never needed to replace crank bearings. Crank seals, ever so often, but that's common for a 1980 era saw. The 3400 is just an easy saw to like.
Bob


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## redunshee (Jan 1, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Is it okay to run 50:1 in this saw
> 
> Sent from my Slim Photon using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2



Many do but I prefer 40/1. I believe ModifiedMark runs 50/1 so it has to be okay. I'm a little more conservative, I guess.
Bob


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## redunshee (Jan 1, 2013)

OhioGregg said:


> mels, I see your from Brookfield Ct. I bought my first Poulan, a 3400 in Brookfield at a *** place called the Tractor Barn, in 1986.
> Just curious if the place is still in buisness. I have a sister that lives in that neck of the woods, but I havn't been back to Ct. since 1987.
> 
> 
> Gregg,



Heck, I was born and raised in Bristol, CT.and then in Terryville. Love NW Connecticut, Beautiful country. Moved to Texas in 91 but I'm a New England yankee(only real yankee) at heart. Almost a nice as Vermont, but not quite.
Bob


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 1, 2013)

belgian said:


> I got a 3400 not so long ago but was surprised to find that the crank bearings had quite a bit of radial play and obviously worn cranks seals (air leak). And the saw was not used that much, judging by its condition. Just a bit curious why these green Poulans are su much liked at AS.



Roland, that saw was introduced in 1978, why in the world would it need crank seals today? 

As for the raidal play, it ends up being a triat of those needle brg saws. The crank end play is set by the depth of the crank brgs and I think they sometimes move around some. I know it sounds strange to some and especially by the way they do things today but a little end play in those dont hurt anything. They run and run forever that way. 

In 1978 that CounterVibe saw was ahead of the pack.


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## OhioGregg (Jan 1, 2013)

I have to agree with most of these fellas, I never seen, heard of, or read about a .325 bar & chain being used on any of the mid size or larger saws of that era. Now I can't say I have seen the very first of that model, when introduced, but if they did have a .325 setup, it was VERY short lived. No mention of it in any IPL's, or service manuals I have seen. I have no doubt that someone along the line has tried it though. I have seen a whole lot of "home engineering" on saws before. 


Gregg,


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 1, 2013)

Eccentric said:


> Have you ever seen a D096/D196 or UXL bar in .325 pitch Mark? I haven't.............but it's possible that the 3400's in question were outfitted with .325 pitch bars in that mount (with the 's' clip) instead of D176 mount bars. My late production 306A (from around the time of the first 3400's) has a 20" UXL mount 3/8" pitch Windsor bar with the 's' clip. Looks like it was sold that way...
> 
> He can run more oil if it makes him feel better. I run 40/1 with good synthetic in every two stroke engine I have. I agree that 50/1 with good synthetic oil is fine..................but I can't bring myself to do it. Heck.............it took me a LONG time to move away from 32/1, as that's what I'd ran in my 2-stroke motorcycles and such in the 1980's.....:cool2:



Aaron, no I dont think that I have ever seen those mounts you list ever in .325 and thats why I was asking. When Poulan went with a .325 pitch on the 306SA they used a roller nose or hardnosed bar on them. 

As far as your 306 with a UXL, I doubt very seriously that it left that factory with it. In those days they showed up with Poulan bars on them in the old style Poulan mount your aware of with the round adjuster holes. The Windsor bars were sold by Poulan as replacements a few years later, but that dont mean a dealer couldnt have swapped it out to make a sale.


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 1, 2013)

Freakingstang said:


> because they were American made runners! people that brought up and supported this country bought poulan and homelight, back in the day before people thought of those german saws as the norm, not to mention that most people didn't know about that sewing machine company.
> 
> It was the 261 of its day, the 4500 the 362 of its day and the. by todays standards, folks would prolly cringe just the thought of running one....



Yep and back when that 3400 was being introduced most Furrin saws really didnt have much to keep up with that design. Partner was really the only one that I can think of off hand.


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## sunfish (Jan 1, 2013)

When I bought my first saw in 1977, a Poulan 245A, *Poulan ruled in the panhandle of north Florida.* And had basically replaced McCullough and Home-lite. Most all the tree guys, loggers and pulpwood cutters used Poulan. 

Stihl was just a rare speck at that time and most had never heard of Husqvarna. Bought a used 3400 in 1988 and used both Poulans until I got a 346xp in 2001. The 245 went to a new home (running very strong) and the 3400 was my back up saw. 

The 3400 runs great to this day and has never had a part replaced, except for drive sprockets, bars and chains.


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 1, 2013)

sunfish said:


> The 3400 runs great to this day and has never had a part replaced, except for drive sprockets, bars and chains.



I'm sure it dose and I'll bet you if you go check it, it will have some end play on that crankshaft that all the "experts" around here would proclaim to be unexceptable. 

I also wont be surprised when someone comes along soon and says the air filters on them are no good either. LOL


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## sunfish (Jan 1, 2013)

Modifiedmark said:


> I'm sure it dose and I'll bet you if you go check it, it will have some end play on that crankshaft that all the "experts" around here would proclaim to be unexceptable.
> 
> I also wont be surprised when someone comes along soon and says the air filters on them are no good either. LOL



It does have a little end play. I noticed that a long time ago when replacing the drive sprocket once.

Mine still has to original air filter.


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## Freakingstang (Jan 1, 2013)

sunfish said:


> It does have a little end play. I noticed that a long time ago when replacing the drive sprocket once.
> 
> Mine still has to original air filter.



must be junk... throw it away then. we live in a throw it away society. Would you wear the same underwear since 1979? :hmm3grin2orange:

Think of it this way... i was born in 79.... those were the saws My father had when i was old enought to remember. 34 years young and the ones that have them have used them...


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## sunfish (Jan 1, 2013)

Freakingstang said:


> must be junk... throw it away then. we live in a throw it away society. Would you wear the same underwear since 1979? :hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> Think of it this way... i was born in 79.... those were the saws My father had when i was old enought to remember. 34 years young and the ones that have them have used them...



When I was 34, I already had 18 years on a 245A and a 3400 in my other hand. 

Also didn't know what a XP was. :hmm3grin2orange:


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## sachsmo (Jan 1, 2013)

Being the Sachs Dolmar freak that I am,

There seems to be a little more to the relationship between Beaird Poulan and Sachs Dolmar than just some re-labled saws between the two.

I see the influence on both saws, whether it came from Beaird Poulan or Sachs Dolmar I dunno.


So next time Mark grips about the "over engineered German saws", me thinks he needs to take a closer look at his green babies.


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 1, 2013)

sachsmo said:


> Being the Sachs Dolmar freak that I am,
> 
> There seems to be a little more to the relationship between Beaird Poulan and Sachs Dolmar than just some re-labled saws between the two.
> 
> ...



I did not know that Dolmar made a reed valve engine that competed with Poulans.


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## sachsmo (Jan 1, 2013)

3000 FPS said:


> I did not know that Dolmar made a reed valve engine that competed with Poulans.



3400 is piston ported is it not?


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## sachsmo (Jan 1, 2013)

3000 FPS said:


> I did not know that Dolmar made a reed valve engine that competed with Poulans.



SD and BP were in bed together in the '70s.

Remember the vaunted 5500 and 6000?


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 1, 2013)

sachsmo said:


> 3400 is piston ported is it not?



I was referring to the 4200,4400, 5200 great saws of their time.

Yes the 3400, 3700, 4000, 395 are piston ported open transfer design. Did Dolmar have open transfers. All the older ones I have worked on were closed port.


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## sachsmo (Jan 1, 2013)

Modifiedmark said:


> Roland, that saw was introduced in 1978, why in the world would it need crank seals today?
> 
> As for the raidal play, it ends up being a triat of those needle brg saws. The crank end play is set by the depth of the crank brgs and I think they sometimes move around some. I know it sounds strange to some and especially by the way they do things today but a little end play in those dont hurt anything. They run and run forever that way.
> 
> In 1978 that CounterVibe saw was ahead of the pack.





Acres states 1979 as the intro date on the 3400,

These weren't too shabby for 1976,


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## hoeyrd2110 (Jan 1, 2013)

Modifiedmark said:


> Interesting, I was working at a Poulan dealer at the time the 3400's came out. Never seen one with .325 and never seen it mentioned in a IPL either. What bars did they have on them? I'm not sure I ever seen a D176 bar in .325 either.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




i've seen 4 3400's(including mine) with .325 bars on em and the sprockets matched, 2 have poulan bars on them the rest were probably changed over. i know for a fact mine came with .325 18" on it from the demo fleet then a 20" up until a few years ago when the bar wore out, my buddy changed to a oregon bar (which has the wrong mount) later. then ditched it to me cause it wouldn't oil right(wrong mount hehe). now it wears a proper 3/8's 18" bar. i'll get a pic of the .325 sprocket to show you guys. i always wondered myself because the 3700's i have are both 3/8's and there they are in red clothing and figured if any would have .325 it would be the sears models. you also have to remember it may be my area not a huge logging operation around here, saws are BIG at 60CC you know what i mean. 

on the oil it's just preference i guess. with speaking to the dolmar guys over some warrant stuff(5100 cylinders) they all recommended 32:1-40:1 they said 50:1 just wasn't enough for the tolerances in the motors(echo's in house tech's told me the same). i had always run 32:1 so i have stayed there since it was withing the recomendation of the engineers. 50:1 just don't make me feel right especially with a saw that parts are getting harder to get and the tolerances are no where near what they are today. you can run your saws 100:1 makes no difference to me i like me 32:1 and i have never ever burned up a saw, maybe it's how i care for em or maybe it's the extra cushion of 32:1. we will never know cause i'm keeping the mix where it's at.


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## sachsmo (Jan 1, 2013)

hoeyrd2110 said:


> i've seen 4 3400's(including mine) with .325 bars on em and the sprockets matched, 2 have poulan bars on them the rest were probably changed over. i know for a fact mine came with .325 18" on it from the demo fleet then a 20" up until a few years ago when the bar wore out, my buddy changed to a oregon bar (which has the wrong mount) later. then ditched it to me cause it wouldn't oil right(wrong mount hehe). now it wears a proper 3/8's 18" bar. i'll get a pic of the .325 sprocket to show you guys. i always wondered myself because the 3700's i have are both 3/8's and there they are in red clothing and figured if any would have .325 it would be the sears models.
> 
> on the oil it's just preference i guess. with speaking to the dolmar guys over some warrant stuff(5100 cylinders) they all recommended 32:1-40:1 they said 50:1 just wasn't enough for the tolerances in the motors(echo's in house tech's told me the same). i had always run 32:1 so i have stayed there since it was withing the recomendation of the engineers. 50:1 just don't make me feel right especially with a saw that parts are getting harder to get and the tolerances are no where near what they are today. you can run your saws 100:1 makes no difference to me i like me 32:1 and i have never ever burned up a saw, maybe it's how i care for em or maybe it's the extra cushion of 32:1. we will never know cause i'm keeping the mix where it's at.



YUP!

a bunch old them old SDs (really not that old '70s and '80s) came with a sticker right by the fill cap,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,25:1


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## sunfish (Jan 1, 2013)

My 3400 was originally a bow saw, but had a 20" 3/8 when I got it, later change to 18"

My brother bought a new 3400 mid 80s' and it came with 3/8" 18" bar.

Not saying some didn't come this way, but I see no reason to run .325 on these saws?


----------



## sunfish (Jan 1, 2013)

I gotta say, as much as I love these old Poulans, when I got my first 346xp (45cc), I never wanted to run those old Poulans any more...:msp_mellow:


----------



## fossil (Jan 1, 2013)

belgian said:


> I got a 3400 not so long ago but was surprised to find that the crank bearings had quite a bit of radial play and obviously worn cranks seals (air leak). And the saw was not used that much, judging by its condition. Just a bit curious why these green Poulans are su much liked at AS.



I measured the radial play in in mine wih new bearings and it was at .004". That does feel like a lot. Runs great.


----------



## hoeyrd2110 (Jan 1, 2013)

sunfish said:


> My 3400 was originally a bow saw, but had a 20" 3/8 when I got it, later change to 18"
> 
> My brother bought a new 3400 mid 80s' and it came with 3/8" 18" bar.
> 
> Not saying some didn't come this way, but I see no reason to run .325 on these saws?




i agree completely i think it's a waste to run .325 but in 77-78 when this saw was making demo rounds in the southeast PA area it had a poulan equiped .325 18". i ran it for 2 hours and almost sold it cause i thought it was a turd. then i put the 3/8's on and my eyes were opened:msp_thumbsup: i have a feeling it was a test saw to see how the dealers took to a .325 version. thank god it didn't impress

the demo's went for $150 a piece:msp_sad: i wish and so does he he had bought more. he walked out of work one day with a S25CV and a 3400CV for under $300...man that just don't happen no more. and he said they had a whole skid of each...


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## sachsmo (Jan 1, 2013)

BP was a "little" optimistic on their claims of running a 30" bar on them.

But so was Mcculloch when they claimed the 10-10 could run a 28"!


You could put that long of bar on them but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Bury a 30" with a 54cc saw, you may be there awhile.


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## hoeyrd2110 (Jan 1, 2013)

sachsmo said:


> BP was a "little" optimistic on their claims of running a 30" bar on them.
> 
> But so was Mcculloch when they claimed the 10-10 could run a 28"!
> 
> ...



then these saws must be crap cause i heard that a MS290 could RIPP! with a 25" bar


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## sachsmo (Jan 1, 2013)

hoeyrd2110 said:


> then these saws must be crap cause i heard that a MS290 could RIPP! with a 25" bar



Well then it must be true if you read it on the internet eh?


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## fossil (Jan 1, 2013)

hoeyrd2110 said:


> then these saws must be crap cause i heard that a MS290 could RIPP! with a 25" bar



They can all pull those bars. Just bring a book. Kind of relaxed cutting


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## hoeyrd2110 (Jan 1, 2013)

sachsmo said:


> Well then it must be true if you read it on the internet eh?



i think he will be here soon enough to argue the point:sword:

i just couldn't help it. it just fit too well:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## sachsmo (Jan 1, 2013)

3000 FPS said:


> I was referring to the 4200,4400, 5200 great saws of their time.
> 
> Yes the 3400, 3700, 4000, 395 are piston ported open transfer design. Did Dolmar have open transfers. All the older ones I have worked on were closed port.



Yup me too.

Not a bad thing though eh?


----------



## sachsmo (Jan 1, 2013)

hoeyrd2110 said:


> i think he will be here soon enough to argue the point:sword:
> 
> i just couldn't help it. it just fit too well:hmm3grin2orange:



:msp_confused:


----------



## Eccentric (Jan 1, 2013)

Modifiedmark said:


> Aaron, no I dont think that I have ever seen those mounts you list ever in .325 and thats why I was asking. When Poulan went with a .325 pitch on the 306SA they used a roller nose or hardnosed bar on them.
> 
> As far as your 306 with a UXL, I doubt very seriously that it left that factory with it. In those days they showed up with Poulan bars on them in the old style Poulan mount your aware of with the round adjuster holes. The Windsor bars were sold by Poulan as replacements a few years later, but that dont mean a dealer couldnt have swapped it out to make a sale.



My 306A is one of the very late ones with the electronic ign, "temperature limiting Ca-spec" steel muffler, and the non-governed HS carb. Wish I could find an IPL for that saw. Poulan was putting UXL mount bars on the Countervibes with 'S' clips at that time (wasn't the 306A discontinued around 1980?) , so I wouldn't be surprised if the saw came with that bar from Poulan. As you said.................it could have been swapped however (especially if that powerhead sat on the dealer shelf for a year or more). Doesn't really matter either way. Still.........I would like to see that IPL...


----------



## hoeyrd2110 (Jan 1, 2013)

sachsmo said:


> :msp_confused:



i was referencing a ridiculous post in a thread i thought some of you would get it...oh well. i had hoped you guys would have figured me to be joking. 25" on a 290 sheesh


----------



## sachsmo (Jan 1, 2013)

hoeyrd2110 said:


> i was referencing a ridiculous post in a thread i thought some of you would get it...oh well. i had hoped you guys would have figured me to be joking. 25" on a 290 sheesh



No worries Bro'


I is just here bench racin' and shootin' the bull. Just like all of us eh?


----------



## Modifiedmark (Jan 1, 2013)

Eccentric said:


> My 306A is one of the very late ones with the electronic ign, "temperature limiting Ca-spec" steel muffler, and the non-governed HS carb. Wish I could find an IPL for that saw. Poulan was putting UXL mount bars on the Countervibes with 'S' clips at that time (wasn't the 306A discontinued around 1980?) , so I wouldn't be surprised if the saw came with that bar from Poulan. As you said.................it could have been swapped however (especially if that powerhead sat on the dealer shelf for a year or more). Doesn't really matter either way. Still.........I would like to see that IPL...



Aaron, I'm digging back in my feeble memory from back 35 years ago when I was working at the AC/Poulan dealer.:bang:

Ok, let me try again to explain. with the help of some old Poulan documents. The 306A is listed as discontinued in 1980 but I believe that means that they were only produced and sold as current till 1979. The 3400 is listed as introduced in 1979, but its kinda like new cars, 2013 models coming out in 2012. 

I was working at the dealer in this time frame and it seems to me that we couldnt order any more 306's when the 3400's came out. I really think 1979 was the last year for the 306/245 saws and the latest IPL that I can find for them is 1978. 

Now back to the bars, I still say they only came with Poulan bars for the span of the 306 and the 3400's first only came with Poulan bars as well. The 3700 was introduced about a year later then the 3400 and I remember those being the first ones that came with the Windsor bars with the S clip. After that alot of the did come with Windsor bars. 

As for the IPL you search for, I dont have one for the 306 but I do have one for the 245A showing what you look for. As for your non goverend carb, I dont know about it for sure, never seen a IPL to support that. What is the HS model # of your carb? There were some saws that used a non goverend carb, some of the 200 series and the 361 type saws but again, I wont say yours is not original and at this time unless you bought the saw new or got if from the original owner who can document it, we'll will just have to go with it. 

1987 245A IPL


----------



## Modifiedmark (Jan 1, 2013)

sachsmo said:


> Being the Sachs Dolmar freak that I am,
> 
> There seems to be a little more to the relationship between Beaird Poulan and Sachs Dolmar than just some re-labled saws between the two.
> 
> ...



Sorry Mo, I have been looking close at all this for a long, long time. Me thinks you need to get off my back. 

There was a relationship between SD and BP to relabel some saws for each other that is fact. Poulan at the time was behind in bigger saw development and SD needed help in there small saw department. 

Seems it was a benificial relationship for both, and thats a good thing. As for any other relationship between them? I'm all ears, please enlighten us with some facts please. I see no other influence between the two of them. None, nada, zip other then the fact they both have a handle on the back and a bar on the front. 

Again, please tell me why you say that! What parts did they share? Thats right none, what designs did they share? Thats right none. 

Personally, looking at the time frame from there arrangment, I think SD should have kept selling the relabeled Poulan saws as the small saws they produced for themselves after that, fell short in alot of areas from the Poulan saws. Yes I have had my hands in the small SD saws to make that statement. 

In fact one I had I gave away, just couldnt see keeping it when I had better ones here, but thats not saying a SD 105 is bad at all.


----------



## Modifiedmark (Jan 1, 2013)

sachsmo said:


> SD and BP were in bed together in the '70s.
> 
> Remember the vaunted 5500 and 6000?



Vaunted? Yeah Ok.


----------



## Modifiedmark (Jan 1, 2013)

sachsmo said:


> [/COLOR]
> 
> 
> Acres states 1979 as the intro date on the 3400,
> ...



No they were not, damn good ones, but when I stated that I was more thinking American saws or saws that were more then just a myth in the US. 

Yeah back then I had heard rumors of SD's, never seen one, as had anyone else I knew back then. They didnt exactly take the US by storm did they? Heck over 30 years later there still struggling and trying.


----------



## Eccentric (Jan 1, 2013)

Modifiedmark said:


> Aaron, I'm digging back in my feeble memory from back 35 years ago when I was working at the AC/Poulan dealer.:bang:
> 
> Ok, let me try again to explain. with the help of some old Poulan documents. The 306A is listed as discontinued in 1980 but I believe that means that they were only produced and sold as current till 1979. The 3400 is listed as introduced in 1979, but its kinda like new cars, 2013 models coming out in 2012.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the IPL. That one does show the electronic ign setup and the optional front outlet 'temperature limiting' muffler like I have. As for the ungoverned HS carb, I'll snap a shot of it and post up the HS number after I go to the shop today. It's OEM. The saw came from an old shop where it'd been sitting for years. 

At least two other members here (IIRC Kostas was one of them) posted up about their late 306A saws with ungoverned HS carbs. One of them (again.....Kostas I think) posted pics of the carb with green paint overspray on it. Definitely not a carb from an early 200 series saw (overspray is the 'wrong' green for that vintage.....and instead matches the 306A).

Here's a couple old pics of my saw with the UXL bar. I'll take better ones (that show the bar # and details of the carb) in a bit.


----------



## sachsmo (Jan 1, 2013)

Modifiedmark said:


> No they were not, damn good ones, but when I stated that I was more thinking American saws or saws that were more then just a myth in the US.
> 
> Yeah back then I had heard rumors of SD's, never seen one, as had anyone else I knew back then. They didnt exactly take the US by storm did they? Heck over 30 years later there still struggling and trying.



Yeah,

but they are still making saws aren't they?

Remember who is credited for making the first gasoline powered chainsaw?


I ain't got no problems with the Poulans from that time. Good saws, but there is no denying the "genes" they share with Sachs Dolmar.



Does that bother you?


----------



## Modifiedmark (Jan 1, 2013)

hoeyrd2110 said:


> i've seen 4 3400's(including mine) with .325 bars on em and the sprockets matched, 2 have poulan bars on them the rest were probably changed over. i know for a fact mine came with .325 18" on it from the demo fleet then a 20" up until a few years ago when the bar wore out, my buddy changed to a oregon bar (which has the wrong mount) later. then ditched it to me cause it wouldn't oil right(wrong mount hehe). now it wears a proper 3/8's 18" bar. i'll get a pic of the .325 sprocket to show you guys. i always wondered myself because the 3700's i have are both 3/8's and there they are in red clothing and figured if any would have .325 it would be the sears models. you also have to remember it may be my area not a huge logging operation around here, saws are BIG at 60CC you know what i mean.
> 
> on the oil it's just preference i guess. with speaking to the dolmar guys over some warrant stuff(5100 cylinders) they all recommended 32:1-40:1 they said 50:1 just wasn't enough for the tolerances in the motors(echo's in house tech's told me the same). i had always run 32:1 so i have stayed there since it was withing the recomendation of the engineers. 50:1 just don't make me feel right especially with a saw that parts are getting harder to get and the tolerances are no where near what they are today. you can run your saws 100:1 makes no difference to me i like me 32:1 and i have never ever burned up a saw, maybe it's how i care for em or maybe it's the extra cushion of 32:1. we will never know cause i'm keeping the mix where it's at.



I wasnt doubting what you told on the .325 just wanted to learn more about what you were talking about. Sounds like it was a regional distributor that changed them over, just for trials or something. I'm more then confident they didnt leave the factory setup like that in regular orders. I remember ordering the first batch of 3400s that were availiable back then, there was no .325 pitch option that I can remember. 

I know my dad bought one of the first ones we got in to replace his Super XLA. 

I still want to know what bars those saws had on them with .325 as like I have said, I know of no bars in that mount to accept .325 except a hardnose and there were alot of 3400's sold with hardnose bars when they first came out. 

As to the oil, your free to run what you want and makes you comfortable. I was just giving info that 50-1 is fine in them as well. ..


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## hoeyrd2110 (Jan 1, 2013)

yep shooting the bull....well you guys got me all worked up so i ran out to the shed and into the woods and grabbed the 3400 :hmm3grin2orange:. you'll have to excuse the safety chain as i have been doing some dirty woods work lately and my full chisel is just to fun to ruin. thats some nice frozen rock elm hehe...so much more fun than sitting in the house.
[video=youtube;MeKr2HJBkFc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MeKr2HJBkFc&feature=youtu.be[/video]


i got you mark no worries, i'm interested to know about the .325 myself. so poulan doesn't list a .325 sprocket in the IPL?


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 1, 2013)

sachsmo said:


> Yeah,
> 
> but they are still making saws aren't they?
> 
> ...



Please point out those "genes". I dont see any other then what I have already shared. If there were shared "genes", no it would not bother me in the least. 

Again, please show what you know. Show the shared designs, construction, or what ever you can grasp for.


----------



## Eccentric (Jan 1, 2013)

*Found it. Was Kostas afterall. Good thing he only has 114 or so posts so far.......*



Kostas said:


> My carb has not any screw like the one you describe.I'll go to check it again and take some pics.
> 
> 
> Ok,here are the pics:
> ...


----------



## Modifiedmark (Jan 1, 2013)

Eccentric said:


> Thanks for the IPL. That one does show the electronic ign setup and the optional front outlet 'temperature limiting' muffler like I have. As for the ungoverned HS carb, I'll snap a shot of it and post up the HS number after I go to the shop today. It's OEM. The saw came from an old shop where it'd been sitting for years.
> 
> At least two other members here (IIRC Kostas was one of them) posted up about their late 306A saws with ungoverned HS carbs. One of them (again.....Kostas I think) posted pics of the carb with green paint overspray on it. Definitely not a carb from an early 200 series saw (overspray is the 'wrong' green for that vintage.....and instead matches the 306A).
> 
> Here's a couple old pics of my saw with the UXL bar. I'll take better ones (that show the bar # and details of the carb) in a bit.



Overspray color dont mean anything, the later 361 saws were the regular Poulan Lime Green as well and used that carb. 

I have some of the ungoverned carbs here and I think I have seen em on 306's but they were real early ones, like the "thirty-0-six"

Not a big deal either way anyhow. 

I know a member here who has one of the original NOS 1 screw muffler kits that you need for that one. PM if you want to know who it is.


----------



## sachsmo (Jan 1, 2013)

Modifiedmark said:


> Please point out those "genes". I dont see any other then what I have already shared. If there were shared "genes", no it would not bother me in the least.
> 
> Again, please show what you know. Show the shared designs, construction, or what ever you can grasp for.





Just a personal observation there Bro'

Don't be gettin' your tight pink panties in a bunch eh?


----------



## Modifiedmark (Jan 1, 2013)

sachsmo said:


> Just a personal observation there Bro'
> 
> Don't be gettin' your tight pink panties in a bunch eh?



No panties in a bunch no matter the color. 

So I was really hoping it wasnt some more of the same "Mo Blowing" that your such a expert at. Seems more of the same blowing from you aint it. 

Personal observation. 

Just some more of the same old Mo bull####. There is no genes there. No over engineerd designs in the Poulans either.


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## sachsmo (Jan 1, 2013)

Dude,

Just hanging and bench racin' 

I don't like to type much y'know?


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## Eccentric (Jan 1, 2013)

I like Poulans. I like some SD saws as well.


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## graybear13 (Jan 1, 2013)

I swapped a Remington shotgun and some cash for my new 3400 poulan way back when and it is still running strong. These old saws are super hard to beat. Heavy? You betcha! Grunt? You betcha!


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 2, 2013)

Will the 3400 pull a 20" bar or is that to much and I've searched for muffler mod pictures and i am having trouble finding them


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 2, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Will the 3400 pull a 20" bar or is that to much and I've searched for muffler mod pictures and i am having trouble finding them



Here is a muffler mod on a craftsman it has the exact same muffler as on a 3400.





View attachment 271000


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 2, 2013)

So just those two 1" vertical cuts and what size whole in the side and retune the carb


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 2, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> So just those two 1" vertical cuts and what size whole in the side and retune the carb



Ok so what I did.
I pulled the baffle out and cut out about half of it away from the top and bottom of it. Leaving the two post that the screws go through in place. I then used a file to debur it so no metal can get back into the engine. The part of the baffle that I cut away I faced towards the front of the muffler. The slit in the side is from a small cut off saw and then opened up with a screw driver. I left the spark arrestor in mine but that is a personal preference. This muffler exits out the back when stock and I welded up all those holes so that it can now only exit the side and front. 

I do not believe the front cuts are 1 inch and more like a half inch. The one on the side is close to inch and a quarter.


----------



## redunshee (Jan 2, 2013)

sachsmo said:


> Dude,
> 
> Just hanging and bench racin'
> 
> I don't like to type much y'know?



Bro and Dude! Please!


----------



## fossil (Jan 2, 2013)

*More muffler mod info*

Here's more info on the muffler mods from the Poulan stickie in this post
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/183629-2.htm


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## redunshee (Jan 2, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Will the 3400 pull a 20" bar or is that to much and I've searched for muffler mod pictures and i am having trouble finding them



It will pull it okay but in a 20" hardwood log it'll work pretty hard.


----------



## redunshee (Jan 2, 2013)

3000 FPS said:


> Ok so what I did.
> I pulled the baffle out and cut out about half of it away from the top and bottom of it. Leaving the two post that the screws go through in place. I then used a file to debur it so no metal can get back into the engine. The part of the baffle that I cut away I faced towards the front of the muffler. The slit in the side is from a small cut off saw and then opened up with a screw driver. I left the spark arrestor in mine but that is a personal preference. This muffler exits out the back when stock and I welded up all those holes so that it can now only exit the side and front.
> 
> I do not believe the front cuts are 1 inch and more like a half inch. The one on the side is close to inch and a quarter.



That's what I do with the exception of the small slits in the front. To make the side opening easier to bend into shape I heat it up till its red with a torch, then use a screwdriver to shape it. Another helpful tip from the "mind of ModifiedMark".
Bob


----------



## belgian (Jan 2, 2013)

Modifiedmark said:


> Roland, that saw was introduced in 1978, why in the world would it need crank seals today?
> 
> As for the raidal play, it ends up being a triat of those needle brg saws. The crank end play is set by the depth of the crank brgs and I think they sometimes move around some. I know it sounds strange to some and especially by the way they do things today but a little end play in those dont hurt anything. They run and run forever that way.
> 
> In 1978 that CounterVibe saw was ahead of the pack.



Hey Mark, no sweat..... crank seals are no biggie for sure ; 
I am still surprised about that radial play being accepted as normal. If there's radial play on the bearings, this will certainly have its effect on the seals' lifetime imo.
But in fact, so many satisfied users can't be wrong I guess.


----------



## Eccentric (Jan 2, 2013)

*Pics from yesterday*










44098 matches the # for a 20" SNR bar in the 4200 IPL. It's a Poulan branded Windsor bar.....but who knows when it made it onto my saw (with the S clip). It's been on there a while, as the rails and groove are worn enough that I swapped it out for a 20" D176 bar yesterday (after I shot these pics). I am going to swap mufflers on this saw. Two cuts made the clutch cover too hot to touch. No wonder the paint's discolored...





There's the SN/MN tag for my 306A.









Tillotson HS198A001 (or 196A001.....hard to read the # because of the 'double stamping') ungoverned carb. To my eye, it looks like it's been on that saw since the saw was new. Could have been swapped I guess. Does a 361 have the same inlet elbow......angled the same way? Also, does the 361 have the same idle screw arrangement as the 200/300 saws? The overspray 'shadow' on my carb matches the carb box, intake block, throttle link, and idle screw extension on my saw....


----------



## fossil (Jan 2, 2013)

belgian said:


> Hey Mark, no sweat..... crank seals are no biggie for sure ;
> I am still surprised about that radial play being accepted as normal. If there's radial play on the bearings, this will certainly have its effect on the seals' lifetime imo.
> But in fact, so many satisfied users can't be wrong I guess.



I thought that would wreck the seals as well but the ones I replaced were original to a 1980 saw. The other units of the same vintage have the orignal seals so I guess it doesn't. In fact I think they last longer than the Stihl seals that seem to be replaced much sooner if the posts concerning bad seals are any indication.

Anyhow, by the number of well used 3400's still going strong that are around I would say that's sound testament to their durability.
They are simple, fairly powerful and don't seem to show up with a lot of broken plastic parts. Parts are much easier to get for these saws than most saws of that era.


----------



## Modifiedmark (Jan 2, 2013)

Eccentric said:


> 44098 matches the # for a 20" SNR bar in the 4200 IPL. It's a Poulan branded Windsor bar.....but who knows when it made it onto my saw (with the S clip). It's been on there a while, as the rails and groove are worn enough that I swapped it out for a 20" D176 bar yesterday (after I shot these pics). I am going to swap mufflers on this saw. Two cuts made the clutch cover too hot to touch. No wonder the paint's discolored...
> 
> 
> Tillotson HS198A001 (or 196A001.....hard to read the # because of the 'double stamping') ungoverned carb. To my eye, it looks like it's been on that saw since the saw was new. Could have been swapped I guess. Does a 361 have the same inlet elbow......angled the same way? Also, does the 361 have the same idle screw arrangement as the 200/300 saws? The overspray 'shadow' on my carb matches the carb box, intake block, throttle link, and idle screw extension on my saw....



Aaron thats a nice 306 but judging from the sawdust on that carb you better check that air filter, throttle boot and foam seal under the tank/handle to engine case for leaks. 

As for the 361 carb questions, yes to all, they will bolt right in. I am with you that yours looks to be original and its not surprising as we all know that nothing is set in stone with these old saws. Maybe yours was a Californina Special.


----------



## Magnumfloyd (Jan 2, 2013)

So I just replaced my fuel and vent line with a new duck bill saw has no air filter its in the mail the saw will only start if I don't choke it or set high idle is this normal or caused by no filte


----------



## Modifiedmark (Jan 2, 2013)

belgian said:


> Hey Mark, no sweat..... crank seals are no biggie for sure ;
> I am still surprised about that radial play being accepted as normal. If there's radial play on the bearings, this will certainly have its effect on the seals' lifetime imo.
> But in fact, so many satisfied users can't be wrong I guess.



Yeah it goes against the grain of thinking but like I said, just a nature of the beast. That saw was in production from 1979 to 1989 when the Poulan Pros showed up and several years after that as a Poulan Pro model and was basically unchanged except for the air filter upgrades so I think that track record alone would have to be looked at as outstanding., 

You work on lots of old saws and you know of alot of weird stuff on them when compared to todays equipment.


----------



## Magnumfloyd (Jan 2, 2013)

So she cleaned up pretty good po scratched the side up in his tool box


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## Eccentric (Jan 3, 2013)

Modifiedmark said:


> Aaron thats a nice 306 but judging from the sawdust on that carb you better check that air filter, throttle boot and foam seal under the tank/handle to engine case for leaks.
> 
> As for the 361 carb questions, yes to all, they will bolt right in. I am with you that yours looks to be original and its not surprising as we all know that nothing is set in stone with these old saws. Maybe yours was a California Special.



I was thinking the same thing Mark. The AF and throttle boot look good, so I'm thinking it's the foam dust seal.


----------



## 3000 FPS (Jan 3, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> So she cleaned up pretty good po scratched the side up in his tool box



If it was not the decal being messed up that would be a pretty good looking saw. Use a heat gun to warm up the decal to help get it off with out messing up the paint. Those decals show up on ebay every now and then. The paint looks really good on it. Nice job and nice saw.


----------



## redunshee (Jan 3, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> So I just replaced my fuel and vent line with a new duck bill saw has no air filter its in the mail the saw will only start if I don't choke it or set high idle is this normal or caused by no filte



If your saw is warm no choking is needed, in fact shouldn't be used. If its cold or hasn't been run for a few days you may have to choke it until it coughs, then proceed w/o the choke. You shouldn't have to set the idle high to start the saw. Push in the throttle lock on the top of the rear handle. Lack of filter shouldn't affect your starting procedure.


----------



## Magnumfloyd (Jan 3, 2013)

NowI just have to get it fine tuned my buddy at the firehouse talks up his stock stihl 290 but I think this can hang stock or do I need a muffler mod


----------



## Wagnerwerks (Jan 3, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> NowI just have to get it fine tuned my buddy at the firehouse talks up his stock stihl 290 but I think this can hang stock or do I need a muffler mod



I'd go for the muff mod. Its a Big help in these saws.

Ps. Tighten up that recoil....


----------



## Magnumfloyd (Jan 3, 2013)

Wagnerwerks said:


> I'd go for the muff mod. Its a Big help in these saws.
> 
> Ps. Tighten up that recoil....



I wish i knew how to tighten up that recoil i have how it hangs.


----------



## redunshee (Jan 3, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> I wish i knew how to tighten up that recoil i have how it hangs.



It's easy. Remove recoil assembly and top pulley cover. Pull out recoil about 1foot. Holding pulley ,pullin rope until you can hook the rope in the notch in the pulley. Then turn pulley with rope in notch 1or2turns clockwise. When the notch is even with the rcoil opening in the cover,let go of pulley and it will pull handle tight.
Bob


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 3, 2013)

redunshee said:


> It's easy. Remove recoil assembly and top pulley cover. Pull out recoil about 1foot. Holding pulley ,pullin rope until you can hook the rope in the notch in the pulley. Then turn pulley with rope in notch 1or2turns clockwise. When the notch is even with the rcoil opening in the cover,let go of pulley and it will pull handle tight.
> Bob



Thanks ill try this later today.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 3, 2013)

I know the muffler mod would help alot but i don't have a welder and don't braze i can solder. Any way just opening up the diffuser holes to 3/8 would help and maybe a hole out the side. I feel that stock it should cut right on past the 290 anyways i know it keeps up if not cuts faster then my 026


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## redunshee (Jan 3, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> I know the muffler mod would help alot but i don't have a welder and don't braze i can solder. Any way just opening up the diffuser holes to 3/8 would help and maybe a hole out the side. I feel that stock it should cut right on past the 290 anyways i know it keeps up if not cuts faster then my 026



Yes,you can open diffuser holes. As far as the side opening,cut a slot on the recoil side of the muffler about 1 to 2 in. long. Then take a torch and heat slit until its. Red. I then use a screwdriver to shape the opening


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 3, 2013)

Then shape so the exhaust would go forward right. 

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## Kostas (Jan 3, 2013)

Modifiedmark said:


> Yeah it goes against the grain of thinking but like I said, just a nature of the beast. That saw was in production from 1979 to 1989 when the Poulan Pros showed up and several years after that as a Poulan Pro model and was basically unchanged except for the air filter upgrades so I think that track record alone would have to be looked at as outstanding.,
> 
> You work on lots of old saws and you know of alot of weird stuff on them when compared to todays equipment.



I strongly agree.Well i am not really sure about what you are calling radial/lateral play but i've noticed on many engines when you grab the flywheel and push it back-frond,it has a little play.This is absolutely normal.I also think that a little amount of up-down play is acceptable as well.My KTM 640 produce more than 30% power compare to other similar in displacement bikes,when you here it idling you think its going to blow up,all the bearings in the engine working with all the kinds of play(lateral,radial) but it can handle over 100.000 klm with no problem (in mine i have 60.000) wich are too much for a 100% racing single cilynder bike.I think that saws wich are working 30+ years with no problem,they must be good.

Eccentric,i can assure you that the carb on my 306A is the one that came with the saw from the factory.I was talking the other day with the main Husqvarna/Partner/Jonsered dealer in Greece and he told me that the only Poulan saw that came in Greece was/is the 2250.I was asking him for some parts for the 2775 and he asked me:"What brand is this saw"?I said Poulan but he knew nothing about it.I don't think that someone could be able to find parts for these models(306A,4200,3400) in Greece.


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## fossil (Jan 3, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Then shape so the exhaust would go forward right.
> 
> Sent from my Slim Photon using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2



Just like this one (pic borrowed from OhioGregg)

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f201/Gregg500/4000030.jpg


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## redunshee (Jan 3, 2013)

fossil said:


> Just like this one (pic borrowed from OhioGregg)
> 
> http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f201/Gregg500/4000030.jpg



That's what you want it to look like. Gregg did a real good job or its from a 4000 muffler.


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## fossil (Jan 3, 2013)

Stephen C. said:


> most of them seem to be on the clutch side. won't having it on the recoil side potentially blow hot exhaust gas on your hand when felling?:msp_confused:



Bob's from Texas. Those guys are tough as hell.


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## redunshee (Jan 3, 2013)

fossil said:


> Bob's from Texas. Those guys are tough as hell.



I misspoke. It does go on the clutch side . Senior moment. Sorry.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 3, 2013)

Yeah I picked up it was on the clutch side so just leave the back holes open and drill the diffuser holes to 3/8 8 i think is what I read that modified mark does


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## redunshee (Jan 3, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Yeah I picked up it was on the clutch side so just leave the back holes open and drill the diffuser holes to 3/8 8 i think is what I read that modified mark does



I leave the rear holes alone as i don't have a welder to close them off


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 4, 2013)

So my saw usually starts right away but if it doesn't the only way to get it started is to turn the L screw all the way in let it run a few seconds and turn back out to 1 turn does it sound like a carb rebuild or is it just flooding on me 

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## graybear13 (Jan 4, 2013)

There are sure enough a lot of posts about a saw that has been out of production long enough that you can't get parts for it anymore. The last time I worked on mine, I had to get a set of rings from GREECE, for crying out loud!!! Mayhap Poulan should reintroduce this saw again! There ain't nothing like a piece of equipment that just damn well won't die! My thanks to ModifiedMark for his contributions to all us old Poulan hands!:lifter::lifter::lifter::lifter::lifter::lifter:


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 4, 2013)

redunshee said:


> If your saw is warm no choking is needed, in fact shouldn't be used. If its cold or hasn't been run for a few days you may have to choke it until it coughs, then proceed w/o the choke. You shouldn't have to set the idle high to start the saw. Push in the throttle lock on the top of the rear handle. Lack of filter shouldn't affect your starting procedure.



I meant to say that the saw won't start with the throttle lock engaged but I'm gonna wait until I get the air filter on to see if that changes anything 

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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 4, 2013)

So I did my muffler mod tonight drilled all the baffle holes to 3/8 and slit the side not as nice as Gregg's but ill see how it runs I might be selling a clean 026 after this and go all poulan with the 4400 I'm getting tomorrow View attachment 271528
View attachment 271529


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## fossil (Jan 4, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> So I did my muffler mod tonight drilled all the baffle holes to 3/8 and slit the side not as nice as Gregg's but ill see how it runs I might be selling a clean 026 after this and go all poulan with the 4400 I'm getting tomorrow View attachment 271528
> View attachment 271529



Make sure you get rid of all those burrs on the baffle from drilling out the holes. If they break off they could end up in your cylinder and do major damage.


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## Eccentric (Jan 4, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> So I did my muffler mod tonight drilled all the baffle holes to 3/8 and slit the side not as nice as Gregg's but ill see how it runs I might be selling a clean 026 after this and go all poulan with the 4400 I'm getting tomorrow View attachment 271528
> View attachment 271529



That'll work fine. Be sure you retune the H side, as it'll be leaned out now that it can breath better.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 4, 2013)

I went rich a half turn on it my neighbors think I'm crazy but I got the poulan bug great quality priced right can't go wrong


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 4, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> I went rich a half turn on it my neighbors think I'm crazy but I got the poulan bug great quality priced right can't go wrong



Just don,t tell anyone. The muff mod looked good.


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## Eccentric (Jan 4, 2013)

3000 FPS said:


> Just don,t tell anyone. The muff mod looked good.



Yep. They're fast loosing the 'cheap buy' status on feebay. Too many folks know about them now. I blame all you guys......


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 4, 2013)

Eccentric said:


> Yep. They're fast loosing the 'cheap buy' status on feebay. Too many folks know about them now. I blame all you guys......



Hey your the one that told me about them. It's your fault.


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 4, 2013)

graybear13 said:


> Mayhap Poulan should reintroduce this saw again!



Well dont hold your breath on that happening. 

The one they should reintroduce is the series that came after it. The 3300 style saw with a chrome bore, closed port and super clean. 

Then they need to rework that profile enough to make it into a 70-75cc version as well!


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## Eccentric (Jan 5, 2013)

*Why stop there?*



Modifiedmark said:


> Well dont hold your breath on that happening.
> 
> The one they should reintroduce is the series that came after it. The 3300 style saw with a chrome bore, closed port and super clean.
> 
> Then they need to rework that profile enough to make it into a 70-75cc version as well!



Beef up the tank/rear handle casting, do away with the stupid 'gotta take half the saw apart to fix it' tank vent setup, and slightly enlarge the crankcase and jug castings so that they can be punched all the way to the five cube range. 

If a certain yellow/black saw brand of old can take a 54cc platform and enlarge it to 70cc, and then enlarge it further to 82cc with success (see my avatar pic), then I'm sure a 'modern' yellow/back (formerly green/black) brand can do the same here. If that was to happen, I'd no longer be able to resist buying a new saw.


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## Eccentric (Jan 5, 2013)

Stephen C. said:


> we need pictures...we are old....:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:



Well.................I can't post pictures of a saw that doesn't (yet) exist.


If you're talking about pics of the previous 54cc saws that were enlarged to 70 and 82cc.................well I'd get in trouble with the green tribe (again) for posting pics of those in a Poulan thread..


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## OhioGregg (Jan 5, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> So I did my muffler mod tonight drilled all the baffle holes to 3/8 and slit the side not as nice as Gregg's but ill see how it runs I might be selling a clean 026 after this and go all poulan with the 4400 I'm getting tomorrow View attachment 271528
> View attachment 271529



That will work fine! The pic of mine was a standard issue 4000 muffler opening. I do drill out the baffle also. If ya want a great muffler mod, and are real talented with a welder, you could do one like Mark did on this one.:msp_ohmy: Looks just like the muffler on the bigger series saws.













Gregg,


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 5, 2013)

Eccentric said:


> Well.................I can't post pictures of a saw that doesn't (yet) exist.
> 
> 
> If you're talking about pics of the previous 54cc saws that were enlarged to 70 and 82cc.................well I'd get in trouble with the green tribe (again) for posting pics of those in a Poulan thread..



Not quite the same deal to increase the displacment of a 3300 as to the design you speak of. Pretty easy to put a bigger engine in that oudated modular or what ever you call it saw. Its also why they earned the reputation of building/selling antique saws longer then any others. 

In the end it is what it is, Elux did what they wanted to do and that was to make sure Husqvarna ended up being there flagship and we should just feel satisfied that Poulan is still in business in the US providing jobs and good selling consumer saws.

My main point I was trying to make in my earlier post was even as good as the 3400 on up saws were, Poulan was on the right track with the 3000 types of saws. They were a upgrade no matter how you look at it, but they never got the chance to progress with it as far as I see it.


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## OhioGregg (Jan 5, 2013)

Modifiedmark said:


> Not quite the same deal to increase the displacment of a 3300 as to the design you speak of. Pretty easy to put a bigger engine in that oudated modular or what ever you call it saw. Its also why they earned the reputation of building/selling antique saws longer then any others.
> 
> In the end it is what it is, Elux did what they wanted to do and that was to make sure Husqvarna ended up being there flagship and we should just feel satisfied that Poulan is still in business in the US providing jobs and good selling consumer saws.
> 
> My main point I was trying to make in my earlier post was even as good as the 3400 on up saws were, Poulan was on the right track with the 3000 types of saws. They were a upgrade no matter how you look at it, but they never got the chance to progress with it as far as I see it.



I agree with that 100%. As much as I like the older midsize and larger Green Poulans. Like the 3400-4000, 4200-8500. The one I think would be a great saw would be a 70-75cc version of the PPSuper 380. Even if it ment increasing the physical size of the saw slightly. But then I guess you would have a Husky 372xp.:msp_tongue:

Gregg,


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 5, 2013)

The saw runs great once I get it running could no air filter be screwing up my tuning to get it running.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 7, 2013)

So I was having some starting issue and noticed the chain spinning when trying to start so I pulled the clutch and greased the needle bearings and my problems have seemed to go away has any else experienced this before.


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## Gushh (Jan 7, 2013)

I want a black taped 245a


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## tmessenger (Jan 8, 2013)

Wonder how the 3400 compares to the Sthil 029 super they are the same displacement and same weight if the Poulan given weight of 13.8 lbs is correct. The Stihl of course is a later design and I would expect has a higher chain speed.

Tim


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## redunshee (Jan 8, 2013)

I have both and the 029 super has higher rpm's but the 3400 has more grunt. In hardwood it might prevail.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 8, 2013)

Are 3400 temperamental when I get it started it runs great but starting can be a chore sometime I think it actually started easier before the air filter. I have replaced the fuel lines spark plug and it wants to fire just doesn't stay running every time know with the air filter if I lock the throttle it will sometimes start other times not so much


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## fossil (Jan 8, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Are 3400 temperamental when I get it started it runs great but starting can be a chore sometime I think it actually started easier before the air filter. Have have replace the fuel lines spark plug and it wants to fire just doesn't stay running every time know with the air filter if I lock the throttle it will sometimes start other times not so much



I don't find mine hard to start and they run fine. 
Where do you have the carb needles set? Should be 1 turn out each to start.
If you don't have the low speed set right it can be hard to start.

What's your starting procedure when starting it when cold and when hot?


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 8, 2013)

L needle is just a 1/16 of a turn below one now and that has seemed to fix my cold problem and I usually when cold full choke till it pops then half choke. When hot it wants no choke but throttle lock on usually does the trick. I might be looking for two much but my 4400 and my 026 are running by the second or third pull the 3400 is around eight or nine


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## fossil (Jan 8, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> L needle is just a 1/16 of a turn below one now and that has seemed to fix my cold problem and I usually when cold full choke till it pops then half choke. When hot it wants no choke but throttle lock on usually does the trick. I might be looking for two much but my 4400 and my 026 are running by the second or third pull the 3400 is around eight or nine



I know they're all a little different but my idle screws are all just over 1 turn which gives me a a good start.
Cold start is full choke and throttle lock on. Pops once, throttle lock still on and choke full off.
Hot start is just switch on and pull. Starts first pull.
I find if the idle is a bit lean the throttle response is not good. I usually adjust the low side needle so the revs up smartly from idle.

Have you checked the saw for vacuum leaks? That usually results in hard starts ( and poor idle). You may have the start of one.

That's about all I can offer from my very limited experience. maybe some of the experienced tuners can chime in and help you more. 
I would hate you to think these uniits won't start and run well because they surely will.
The few old Poulans I have fixed up all start easily unless they've been sitting for a long time.


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## tmessenger (Jan 8, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> L needle is just a 1/16 of a turn below one now and that has seemed to fix my cold problem and I usually when cold full choke till it pops then half choke. When hot it wants no choke but throttle lock on usually does the trick. I might be looking for two much but my 4400 and my 026 are running by the second or third pull the 3400 is around eight or nine



If the carb diaphragm is starting to get hard they just don't pump gas like they should when the engine is being pulled over by hand.


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## redunshee (Jan 8, 2013)

Some saws just start easier than others. Could be many reasons,spark,compression,carb somewhat dirty. I have 3400's that start cold within 4pulls, others 8-9 pulls. One theory I!mworking on has to do with a clean carb. By clean I mean USC clean as opposed to carb cleaner clean. I'm beginning to think that at times, manual cleaning can't get the carb clean enough. A USC likely gets it much cleaner and might result in easier starting.
Bob


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 8, 2013)

Maybe ill do a carb rebuild saw has had very little hours still has original poulan chain and bar. I checked the carb seals by pulling the clutch and flywheel and turning the saw over with a drill and sprayed soapy water and got no bubbles


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## fossil (Jan 8, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Maybe ill do a carb rebuild saw has had very little hours still has original poulan chain and bar. I checked the carb seals by pulling the clutch and flywheel and turning the saw over with a drill and sprayed soapy water and got no bubbles



Sorry. I thought you had put a kit in that carb. When I get an old saw I always put a carb kit in it if it doesn't run well after I replace what I see it needs. The diaphrams and gaskets get hard with the ethanol in the gas.
I think you will find that's a good investment.


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## redunshee (Jan 8, 2013)

I assumed you had rebuilt the carb also. Rebuild is must for any saw that has been sitting for any length of time unless it had been run dry.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 8, 2013)

Where to buy a good rebuild kit


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## Eccentric (Jan 9, 2013)

My 3400 was a cranky starter even after I cleaned the carb with a USC (and reused the diaphragms and gaskets as I didn't have a kit). Got a kit and put in the new needle, screen, diaphragms and gaskets. Started and ran fine after that. Sometimes we can get away with reusing the soft parts....but it's not a good idea.

The kit you need is K10-HDB.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 9, 2013)

So I was looking at the circlip holding in the screen what's the best approach of removing


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## Eccentric (Jan 9, 2013)

I use a plastic headed push pin to pry it out.........and lots of swear words...


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## fossil (Jan 9, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> So I was looking at the circlip holding in the screen what's the best approach of removing



Look at the Walbro website. Good info there and a parts explosion of the carbs so you get everything back together as it should be.


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## redunshee (Jan 9, 2013)

Eccentric said:


> My 3400 was a cranky starter even after I cleaned the carb with a USC (and reused the diaphragms and gaskets as I didn't have a kit). Got a kit and put in the new needle, screen, diaphragms and gaskets. Started and ran fine after that. Sometimes we can get away with reusing the soft parts....but it's not a good idea.
> 
> The kit you need is K10-HDB.



Totally,totally agree. I never use the existing carb parts. Not worth the aggravation and kits aren't that expensive.


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## redunshee (Jan 9, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> So I was looking at the circlip holding in the screen what's the best approach of removing



I use a mini screwdriver. One that comes in the plastic case with 4-5 other tiny screwdrivers.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 9, 2013)

Got this kit for $12 from the saw shop this morning and will install tonight View attachment 272295


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## mels (Jan 9, 2013)

'Magnumfloyd, thought you might get a charge out of this. Taken unsupported with my camera, hope it's clear enough to read:

View attachment 272297
View attachment 272298
View attachment 272299
View attachment 272300


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 9, 2013)

mels said:


> 'Magnumfloyd, thought you might get a charge out of this. Taken unsupported with my camera, hope it's clear enough to read:
> 
> View attachment 272297
> View attachment 272298
> ...



Thanks thats cool information

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## RiverRat2 (Jan 9, 2013)

*OLD POULAN??? series???*



Eccentric said:


> ...........and then there's the larger displacement 3800, 3700, PP375, PP395, and 4000 Poulans on the same chassis. Not really any heavier than the 3400, and much more beans than the stihl.



I just picked up one from a friend not sure what model and cant hardly read the number series appears to be something on the PTO side cover and the starter recoil is missing but have trouble making out what it says... will post up some pics when I get back near the shop its wearing a 20" B& C and the guys grand dad said it would cut circles around a like sized Stihl..........


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## fossil (Jan 9, 2013)

RiverRat2 said:


> I just picked up one from a friend not sure what model and cant hardly read the number series appears to be something on the PTO side cover and the starter recoil is missing but have trouble making out what it says... will post up some pics when I get back near the shop its wearing a 20" B& C and the guys grand dad said it would cut circles around a like sized Stihl..........



Sounds interesting! Looking forward to the pics.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 9, 2013)

Carbs rebuilt and it starts if I use this sequence that Joe25DA posted in another topic Switch OFF, Choke FULL, Set trigger lock and half, pull 3-4 times. Switch ON, half choke pull till it pops choke off


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 11, 2013)

I am wanting to like this saw but its so temper mental. I have checked crank seals, rebuilt carb,new spark plug and air filter and sometimes it just dose not want to start or starts real slow then comes up to idle. Only thing I changed is I went to 40:1 over 50:1

Sent from my MB855 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2


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## Kostas (Jan 11, 2013)

if you are sure that the saw has no leaks (not only from the crank seals,check the carb-manifold gaskets as well),then i think that the problem is on the carb,not proper tuning,wrong seting on the needle etc.My 4200-306A need 2-3 pulls when are cold and only one hot.


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 11, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> I am wanting to like this saw but its so temper mental. I have checked crank seals, rebuilt carb,new spark plug and air filter and sometimes it just dose not want to start or starts real slow then comes up to idle. Only thing I changed is I went to 40:1 over 50:1



These saws are not known for being tempermental and if yours is then you still have a problem with it. 

You should be able to start the saw with the switch on, pull choke all the way out, then pull until it pops, turn choke off, then pull until it starts. If you saw does not do this then there is still a problem with the saw. I have 5 of this series of saws and none of them are tempermental.

When working on a problem like this I will pull the plug upto 10 times just so I can see what is going on inside the engine. You need to know if it is getting fuel or is lean on trying to start it.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 11, 2013)

Is there any poulan guys near south jersey that might be able to take a look at it


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## OhioGregg (Jan 11, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> I am wanting to like this saw but its so temper mental. I have checked crank seals, rebuilt carb,new spark plug and air filter and sometimes it just dose not want to start or starts real slow then comes up to idle. Only thing I changed is I went to 40:1 over 50:1
> 
> Sent from my MB855 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2



Magnum,
I have about 10 of these saws in this series. They all pretty much start the same way. I had put together a 4000 one time, the odd blue one.. I did everything I normally do to them, rebuilt carb, fuel lines, tank vent, plug, etc. The dang thing gave me fits. I had the carb apart, I don't know how many times. Tried different plugs, you name it.

When I replaced the fuel lines on this saw, I did not replace the filter. Looked "looked like new" I thought. I eventually changed it with a new filter. That dang saw started right up! All I can say is, don't over look ANYTHING, no matter how small. Like the hight of the metering lever in the carb, filter, vent, and plug. If the H & L needles are set yo one turn out...the thing should start, using the procedure described before.

I wish ya luck with it!! Sounds like your not far off, but there is a fly in ointment somewhere yet.


Gregg,


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 11, 2013)

I never changed the filter either ill have to get one

Sent from my MB855 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2


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## OhioGregg (Jan 11, 2013)

Wanted to add, These 3400's aren't known for high compression. Most are in the 130l b. range. But they do need some compression to run. Don't remember if you checked that before or not.
As far as your fuel mix goes. 40:1 will be fine. I used to run mine at 32:1 with the older dino oil. Switched to Synthetic some time ago. I think ModifiedMark runs 50:1 in all his. No problem.

Gregg,


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 11, 2013)

Yeah she runs good I just got to remember the lower compression slower start View attachment 272833
View attachment 272834


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 11, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Carbs rebuilt and it starts if I use this sequence that Joe25DA posted in another topic Switch OFF, Choke FULL, Set trigger lock and half, pull 3-4 times. Switch ON, half choke pull till it pops choke off



Not sure why you were told to use this starting procedure, but its not a good one. No point in pulling it over with the switch off. If the carb is rebuilt and working properly, that only serves to flood the saw. 



3000 FPS said:


> These saws are not known for being tempermental and if yours is then you still have a problem with it.
> 
> You should be able to start the saw with the switch on, pull choke all the way out, then pull until it pops, turn choke off, then pull until it starts. If you saw does not do this then there is still a problem with the saw. I have 5 of this series of saws and none of them are tempermental.



Exactly the procedure to use on these. I have none that do not work right when doing it this way.


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 11, 2013)

Modifiedmark said:


> Not sure why you were told to use this starting procedure, but its not a good one. No point in pulling it over with the switch off. If the carb is rebuilt and working properly, that only serves to flood the saw.
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly the procedure to use on these. I have none that do not work right when doing it this way.



To me it is the bench mark on the way to start an older saw. I even use this method on my Dolmars, Stihls, J-reds, and Huskys. If they are an older carbureted saw it works everytime.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 11, 2013)

When I loosen that fuel lid pressure gets released is that normal


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## Eccentric (Jan 11, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> When I loosen that fuel lid pressure gets released is that normal



Yes.


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 11, 2013)

3000 FPS said:


> To me it is the bench mark on the way to start an older saw. I even use this method on my Dolmars, Stihls, J-reds, and Huskys. If they are an older carbureted saw it works everytime.



Thats how you start anything with a carb and a choke, lawmowers, old trucks, tractors etc. 

Put the switch on, choke it, turn it over, push the choke in when it hits...


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 12, 2013)

Mark that's how I always started stuff until the other guy suggested that procedure


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## redunshee (Jan 12, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> When I loosen that fuel lid pressure gets released is that normal



Are you saying that you hear pressure get released when you loosen the fuel cap? If so , that's not right. Means your tank vent is plugged.
Bob


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## Kostas (Jan 12, 2013)

redunshee said:


> Are you saying that you hear pressure get released when you loosen the fuel cap? If so , that's not right. Means your tank vent is plugged.
> Bob



Are you sure Bob?I think that vent's job is to prevent the vacuum build up,not the presure.


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## redunshee (Jan 12, 2013)

Kostas said:


> Are you sure Bob?I think that vent's job is to prevent the vacuum build up,not the presure.



Maybe we are saying the same thing but you said it much better. I was trying to say if he hears air, somethings clogged. I've never heard air releasing/ entering when I've loosened the fuel cap. 
Bob


----------



## Modifiedmark (Jan 12, 2013)

redunshee said:


> I've never heard air releasing/ entering when I've loosened the fuel cap.
> Bob



Thats because your old and hard of hearing. :hmm3grin2orange:

Not uncommon for it to build a little pressure in the tank as the vents duckbill valve is a one way valve that lets air into the tank but not back out of it.


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## redunshee (Jan 12, 2013)

Modifiedmark said:


> Thats because your old and hard of hearing. :hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> Not uncommon for it to build a little pressure in the tank as the vents duckbill valve is a one way valve that lets air into the tank but not back out of it.



Mark, you got me again. You know I have a mental,block about the duckbill valve.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 12, 2013)

http://youtu.be/JxiQHrqwSyg


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## OhioGregg (Jan 12, 2013)

Looks good Magnum!  I take it you got her straitened out and following the program.


Gregg,


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 13, 2013)

http://youtu.be/ViT-YNHonkA
But some times it does this


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 13, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> 4300 acting up - YouTube
> But some times it does this



What I would do after pulling on it for about 10 times and it does not start. I would pull the plug and see if it is wet or dry. It is either getting fuel or it is not. You need to see which one it is so a diagnosis can be made. Other wise your just spittin the wind.


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## redunshee (Jan 13, 2013)

Yup. I would check to see if plug was wet. Stupid question,but are you setting the throttle lock? 
After checking everything else , as a last resort, I would stick the carb in a USC. Naturally dissasembled.


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## hoeyrd2110 (Jan 13, 2013)

mine starts first or second pull no choke or throttle once warm. if i run it dry for storage then i takes 6-8 pulls on choke and throttle stop. sounds like the USC and a carb kit mentioned earlier would do your saw some good. it sounds like it's running well otherwise. maybe a vid of it in wood next


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 13, 2013)

The carb kits was done and I put in perry mans for about an hour disassembled. Most time I don't set the throttle lock


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 13, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Most time I don't set the throttle lock



Why not? You ever wonder why they bothered to put them on the saw for?


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## hoeyrd2110 (Jan 14, 2013)

try and richen up the low slightly i bet it will help with the fast idle too. out an 1/8 on the low an in a 1/16 on the high


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## OhioGregg (Jan 14, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> 4300 acting up - YouTube
> But some times it does this



Sounds to me like it wants to go...if you used a little throttle. I use the throttle lock on my saws all the time to start them. As soon as they start, just hit the trigger so its not racing, and let it warm up a little. Does the same thing as the fast idle on older cars & trucks etc. with an automatic choke.


Gregg,


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 14, 2013)

http://youtu.be/jpLP3GirFzw runs good stock poulan saftey chain


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## redunshee (Jan 14, 2013)

OhioGregg said:


> Sounds to me like it wants to go...if you used a little throttle. I use the throttle lock on my saws all the time to start them. As soon as they start, just hit the trigger so its not racing, and let it warm up a little. Does the same thing as the fast idle on older cars & trucks etc. with an automatic choke.
> 
> 
> Gregg,



Sounded like he didn't have the throttle lock engaged,which was why I asked. On a cold start I always use it.


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## redunshee (Jan 14, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Poulan 3400 - YouTube runs good stock poulan saftey chain



Starts good now. Use the throttle lock when the saw is cold. Is your chain sharp? Chips look like sawdust and it doesn' seem to be cutting very fast.


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## Kostas (Jan 14, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Poulan 3400 - YouTube runs good stock poulan saftey chain



The saw sounds like it is running lean on the low side.Richen it up a little as others mentioned.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 14, 2013)

If I go any richer on the L screw the saw floods and won't start. The saw was a hot start and the chain was sharp on the first tree sorry this was the third only one I could get the phone to record and not fall over


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## fossil (Jan 14, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> If I go any richer on the L screw the saw floods and won't start. The saw was a hot start and the chain was sharp on the first tree sorry this was the third only one I could get the phone to record and not fall over



Remember that tiny increments in the screws like 1/16 of a turn can make a big difference. When you get close go really slow.


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## graybear13 (Jan 15, 2013)

I have run a 3400 for damn near thirty years and its still going. Your chain is some kind of dull of it takes that long to cut through that little limb. Have it sharpened by someone that knows what is what and try it again. Those old saws will cut good enough and they have grunt in the cut , if they are tuned right. Sounds like it is tuned pretty good, but that cut took waay too long. Keep working on it,and if it just don't wind yer watch,I'll cheerfully take it off your hands.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 16, 2013)

So I turn the L screw 1/16 richer the saw started cold but would not restart hot turned it back 1/16 lean and the saw fired right up. Is there any damage that could be caused by the L screw being a little lean


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## hoeyrd2110 (Jan 16, 2013)

Turn the L mixture back out and turn the idle speed screw up until it Idles with a slight burble.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 16, 2013)

graybear13 said:


> I have run a 3400 for damn near thirty years and its still going. Your chain is some kind of dull of it takes that long to cut through that little limb. Have it sharpened by someone that knows what is what and try it again. Those old saws will cut good enough and they have grunt in the cut , if they are tuned right. Sounds like it is tuned pretty good, but that cut took waay too long. Keep working on it,and if it just don't wind yer watch,I'll cheerfully take it off your hands.



I have no problem sharpening full chisel chains for some reason this semi chisel just dose not cut that fast

Sent from my MB855 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2


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## redunshee (Jan 17, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> So I turn the L screw 1/16 richer the saw started cold but would not restart hot turned it back 1/16 lean and the saw fired right up. Is there any damage that could be caused by the L screw being a little lean



Lean on any of the two screws will cause issues. The starting point for both needles is 1 turn open. Here's how I adjust the Lo needle. After saw is warm and idling, I turn Lo screw counterclockwise until saw starts to die. I then turn it clockwise until the same thing happens. Midpoint between those two extremes is where I set the Lo. I then adjust the idle screw so the chain doesn't turn. On the HI needle, with throttle wide open, I adjust clockwise until the saw isn't burbling, then turn counterclockwise until it starts to burble. You want the saw to burble out of the cut and clean up in the cut. May need to make a few cuts to fine tune this procedure.


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## redunshee (Jan 17, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> I have no problem sharpening full chisel chains for some reason this semi chisel just dose not cut that fast
> 
> Sent from my MB855 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2



Sure you don't have a safety chain with those bump guards?


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 17, 2013)

Yeah it was semi chisel rounded corner I just picked up a loop of lgx so to the woodsI go to make a even comparison with my 026 with full chisel I have a feeling the poulan will cut faster


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 17, 2013)

Poulan 3400 vs stihl 026 both 16" bar poulan has a muffler mod stihl is stock both running new loops of full chisel 3/8 on poulan. 325 on stihl https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4REvwygMmM&feature=youtube_gdata_player 

Sent from my MB855 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2


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## fossil (Jan 17, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Poulan 3400 vs stihl 026 both 16" bar poulan has a muffler mod stihl is stock both running new loops of full chisel 3/8 on poulan. 325 on stihl https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4REvwygMmM&feature=youtube_gdata_player
> 
> Sent from my MB855 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2



A muff mod for that creamsicle will really wake that up as well.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 17, 2013)

Equal to the poulan


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## fossil (Jan 17, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Equal to the poulan



Is that a question?


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## hoeyrd2110 (Jan 17, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Equal to the poulan


 under 8" yes over 8" no


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 17, 2013)

fossil said:


> Is that a question?



Yes I'm just amazed I have 80 total in the 3400 with carb kit and fuel lines and a new chain and a little over 200 in the stihl and it stihl can't keep up


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## graybear13 (Jan 17, 2013)

The old 3400 may be old but it ain't ready for the scrap heap yet. Wish they still made a good simple saw that would last like these.


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 17, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Yes I'm just amazed I have 80 total in the 4300 with carb kit and fuel lines and a new chain and a little over 200 in the stihl and it stihl can't keep up



Magnum it is a 3400.


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## fossil (Jan 17, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Yes I'm just amazed I have 80 total in the 4300 with carb kit and fuel lines and a new chain and a little over 200 in the stihl and it stihl can't keep up



Kind of worked like this for me. The 026 was the second saw I bought. I did a little to it like a carb kit, plug, bar and chain. Cut pretty well. Did a little research on here and decided to try a muff mod (muffler, don't get excited). It made a huge difference. A few saws later I picked up a 3400. I did a bunch of stuff to that and it would not keep up to my 026. Did a muff mod on that and now I think they are very close to each other. I have never timed them but they feel really close.

If your 026 muffler looks like this on the inside of the front cover (there are three different 026 mufflers), then drill a 5/16" hole above and below the 3/8" (I think) hole in the center. Don't forget to richen up the high side on the carb. *I think that some later 026's have carbs with a fixed high side so you can't adjust the high speed mixture. If your is like that, don't do this mod!*


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 17, 2013)

3000 FPS said:


> Magnum it is a 3400.



Yeah with a few saws and triplets and another kid at home I get confused sometimes


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## redunshee (Jan 17, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Yes I'm just amazed I have 80 total in the 3400 with carb kit and fuel lines and a new chain and a little over 200 in the stihl and it stihl can't keep up



Don't forget you're talking about a 3400 with 56 ccs and an 026 with what 48-49cc's ?


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 17, 2013)

redunshee said:


> Don't forget you're talking about a 3400 with 56 ccs and an 026 with what 48-49cc's ?



Your talking also about a 3400 that is 15 years older than a 026.


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## fossil (Jan 17, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Yeah with a few saws and triplets and another kid at home I get confused sometimes



WOW! and you have time to fiddle around with saws? My hat's off to you.


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## fossil (Jan 17, 2013)

Modifiedmark said:


> Your talking also about a 3400 that is 15 years older than a 026.



Yep. They are still have as good or better performance than many of the good saws today. The big ones are mind boggling for anyone lucky enough to get a chance to run one.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 18, 2013)

If I replace the crank seals the only thing left would be the carburetor adapter gasket at the cylinder head right?


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 18, 2013)

Did you inspect the plastic intake with a magnifier. They can develope some small hair line cracks.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 18, 2013)

3000 FPS said:


> Did you inspect the plastic intake with a magnifier. They can develope some small hair line cracks.



Okay I'll check that cause I check the crank seals and they were good but I figured I didn't have much left 

Sent from my MB855 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2


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## redunshee (Jan 19, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Okay I'll check that cause I check the crank seals and they were good but I figured I didn't have much left
> 
> Sent from my MB855 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2



We need to step back here a bit. Did you do a pressure/vacuum test to check for any air leaks or seal leaks? How did you check the seals? They may seem fine under pressure but may leak under vacuum. A pressure test will find any leaks be they cylinder, carb intake manifold or case. It will also show real bad seals but not always marginal ones. That's what the vacuum test is for.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 19, 2013)

Well I wish I had the means to do a pressure test I did retune the L and got the saw to idle down faster by leaning it out which it needed cause when I tilted forward the rpms would raise from fuel puddling what symptoms would I get if I punctured the check valve not sure that I did just a thought


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## cobey (Jan 19, 2013)

FYI.... to any that want a countervibe, tulsa ok craigslist has one listed simply as "chainsaw in wooden box" for $150:msp_biggrin:


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## cobey (Jan 19, 2013)

3400 sorry didnt add that


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## Guido Salvage (Jan 19, 2013)

Stephen C. said:


> any idea what size it might be?



It is a 3400 with an 18" bar.











Chainsaw with Wooden Case - $150 (Tulsa)


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## cobey (Jan 19, 2013)

if my funds were not low I would go get it:msp_sad:


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 22, 2013)

Is replacing the check valve a pain


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## redunshee (Jan 23, 2013)

Check valve ??


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 23, 2013)

Yes check valve the piece behind the screen under the brass collar I bought this to fix I think I may have pricked it with a pick http://bit.ly/WfGA95


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## fossil (Jan 23, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Yes check valve the piece behind the screen under the brass collar I bought this to fix I think I may have pricked it with a pick http://bit.ly/WfGA95



You can download a Walbro manual here. It explains how to test the check valve and replace it if required.
They are apparently often damaged when high pressure air is used to blow out passages.

walbro ServiceManual.pdf


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## redunshee (Jan 23, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Yes check valve the piece behind the screen under the brass collar I bought this to fix I think I may have pricked it with a pick http://bit.ly/WfGA95



I've never replaced one. Looks like special tools are required. Kit looks like it comes with a welsh plug, also?


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 25, 2013)

Not thinking I'm gonna mess with the check valve now. I did crank seal just cause they are super easy and also I forgot that I didn't pull the tank vent line all the way up so the barb is flush with the top of the tank and it idles great and runs as good as it has been. Thanks AS family for all the help.


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 25, 2013)

Good Job on a good saw.


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## redunshee (Jan 25, 2013)

Yup. Good job


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## fossil (Jan 25, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Not thinking I'm gonna mess with the check valve now. I did crank seal just cause they are super easy and also I forgot that I didn't pull the tank vent line all the way up so the barb is flush with the top of the tank and it idles great and runs as good as it has been. Thanks AS family for all the help.



Here's some perseverance rep. Hope you enjoy the saw


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 25, 2013)

View attachment 275533
View attachment 275534


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 31, 2013)

This saw needs a new home fast its annoying me to much only looking for what I have into it pm if interested


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 31, 2013)

My problem lies when the fuel tank is getting low and starting


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## redunshee (Jan 31, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> My problem lies when the fuel tank is getting low and starting



Not having a throttle lock isn't helping your starting issues.


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## Eccentric (Jan 31, 2013)

redunshee said:


> Not having a throttle lock isn't helping your starting issues.



I agree. That can make a saw flood out when cold starting.


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 31, 2013)

I have been using the throttle lock the only thing I noticed when I pulled the fuel line yesterday the fuel is under pressure.


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## Eccentric (Jan 31, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> I have been using the throttle lock the only thing I noticed when I pulled the fuel line yesterday the fuel is under pressure.



That's normal.


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## Magnumfloyd (Feb 1, 2013)

Last thing to try is the coil anyone have a spare one I can try


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## Magnumfloyd (Feb 19, 2013)

Okay so I decided to pull the cylinder today to tighten the intake gasket and I find a ring broken into two I don't think this happened pulling the cylinder but would explain not running the best so know I need a cylinder if anyone has any good ones around let me know View attachment 280172
View attachment 280173
View attachment 280174
View attachment 280175
View attachment 280176


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## fossil (Feb 19, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Okay so I decided to pull the cylinder today to tighten the intake gasket and I find a ring broken into two I don't think this happened pulling the cylinder but would explain not running the best so know I need a cylinder if anyone has any good ones around let me know View attachment 280172
> View attachment 280173
> View attachment 280174
> View attachment 280175
> View attachment 280176



I have two 3400's. My favourite one is pretty rough. I am a little embarassed to admit that it has a gouge out of the cylinder above the exhaust port you could hide in. It sure looks like a broken ring caused it. I cleaned the cylinder up a bit. *DON'T* do the acid treatment on ths cylinder as it is unplated aluminum. If you can't find a replacement cylinder and piston 3400, 3700, 3800, 4000 all fit on this saw) try this.
Clean the cylinder up a bit to remove sharp edges and put a new ring in it. You may be surprised with what you get.


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## Magnumfloyd (Feb 19, 2013)

The small gouge is in an area that is in the exhaust port can I square the port off


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## kmcinms (Feb 19, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> The small gouge is in an area that is in the exhaust port can I square the port off



Are you talking about porting it out past the scratches? I'd run that cylinder with new rings just to see how well it runs. Get some new Caber rings from Dankidrop. That's where I got rings for my 3400CV.


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## Magnumfloyd (Feb 20, 2013)

kmcinms said:


> Are you talking about porting it out past the scratches? I'd run that cylinder with new rings just to see how well it runs. Get some new Caber rings from Dankidrop. That's where I got rings for my 3400CV.



Technically yes it would only involve cleaning up the port to the edges of the original opening. Removing the lip


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## Marvinlee (May 11, 2013)

belgian said:


> I got a 3400 not so long ago but was surprised to find that the crank bearings had quite a bit of radial play and obviously worn cranks seals (air leak). And the saw was not used that much, judging by its condition. Just a bit curious why these green Poulans are su much liked at AS.



The 3400, etc. were liked because they are a remarkably honest chainsaw and came in a neat green color. Very ecological and new age, you know. Actually, no one thought of this in 1980. No frills, but lots of basic quality. My first chainsaw ever was a Poulan 3400, bought new in 1980, 33 years ago. I went out to the shop ten minutes ago and took it out of the wood carrying case I made for it right after buying it. Put in gas and oil, pulled the choke, set the throttle, and in three pulls it was running strong and sweet. Compared to my Dolmar 5100S, the Poulan weighs more, but not horrendously so, starts easier, and looks much like it did new. Physically, it is about the same size as the Dolmar.

For those with wrist or arm arthritis, the old Poulan has a much easier starter pull than the Dolmar.

The only repair ever made was the aluminum filter cover which I somehow broke. The new cover was made in plastic and is still intact.


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## Magnumfloyd (Sep 3, 2013)

So this 3400 has been sitting in my garage apart all summer it would run okay and then stall so i decided to pull the top end and it had a cracked ring only problem i have now is one of the pins that keep the ring from spinning is missing is there a way to fix or just replace the piston .


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## redunshee (Sep 4, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> So this 3400 has been sitting in my garage apart all summer it would run okay and then stall so i decided to pull the top end and it had a cracked ring only problem i have now is one of the pins that keep the ring from spinning is missing is there a way to fix or just replace the piston .



I've never seen one break but I would guess you'll need a new piston. Is it the top or bottom ring? If its the bottom ring, I'd try just running it with the top ring only. Don't have anything to lose, right?
Bob


----------



## cowroy (Sep 4, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> So this 3400 has been sitting in my garage apart all summer it would run okay and then stall so i decided to pull the top end and it had a cracked ring only problem i have now is one of the pins that keep the ring from spinning is missing is there a way to fix or just replace the piston .



Your easiest option is a new piston and rings, but you need a pin press. Weedeaterman.com has the presses but I'm not real sure of a source for a piston


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## Scoutillac (Sep 4, 2013)

I just drug a 3400 home from our cabin in the hopes of getting it running again, been at least 7 years since it was run. I found deteriorated fuel lines, super nasty over mixed fuel, and a general lack of give a crap by my other family members. The piston looked decent through the exhaust port, so I picked up a fuel line kit, carb rebuild kit, air filter and will grab a plug this week. I dont "think" there is any reason for it not to run, but I will find out by this weekend. The biggest challenge will be getting this thing clean. Kinda looks like a bomb went off on my work bench LOL


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## 3000 FPS (Sep 4, 2013)

Scoutillac said:


> I just drug a 3400 home from our cabin in the hopes of getting it running again, been at least 7 years since it was run. I found deteriorated fuel lines, super nasty over mixed fuel, and a general lack of give a crap by my other family members. The piston looked decent through the exhaust port, so I picked up a fuel line kit, carb rebuild kit, air filter and will grab a plug this week. I dont "think" there is any reason for it not to run, but I will find out by this weekend. The biggest challenge will be getting this thing clean. Kinda looks like a bomb went off on my work bench LOL



I think you are right. When working on some of these old saws getting them clean again is the biggest challenge and the biggest part of the job. Do not forget to check the spark screen inside the muffler. 

Sounds like you have a plan and you will having running in no time.


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## Magnumfloyd (Sep 4, 2013)

The top ring is the one that the pin is missing. Should I try running with just a bottom ring.


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## redunshee (Sep 4, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> The top ring is the one that the pin is missing. Should I try running with just a bottom ring.



I wouldn't though that's my gut feeling. I may have a used piston but will have to check. New ones are about impossible to find.


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## Magnumfloyd (Sep 4, 2013)

redunshee said:


> I wouldn't though that's my gut feeling. I may have a used piston but will have to check. New ones are about impossible to find.



Let me know if you have one and what you want for it. I already have to much in this saw to give up but don't want to add to much more money


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## redunshee (Sep 4, 2013)

3000 FPS said:


> I think you are right. When working on some of these old saws getting them clean again is the biggest challenge and the biggest part of the job. Do not forget to check the spark screen inside the muffler.
> 
> Sounds like you have a plan and you will having running in no time.



Adding to your steps, if you have a difficult time getting it to idle or in adjusting the carb, you may have an air leak. Most of the time it's the clutch side seal but have also seen leaking carb adapters i.e.i intake manifold. Start at 1 turn open for both the Lo and Hi speed needles.


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## redunshee (Sep 4, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Let me know if you have one and what you want for it. I already have to much in this saw to give up but don't want to add to much more money



If I have one that's decent you can have it it for the cost of mailing. I won't be able to check until tomorrow morning.
Bob


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## Scoutillac (Sep 4, 2013)

3000 FPS said:


> I think you are right. When working on some of these old saws getting them clean again is the biggest challenge and the biggest part of the job. Do not forget to check the spark screen inside the muffler.
> 
> Sounds like you have a plan and you will having running in no time.



Already tore the muffler down and bead blasted it, the screen on the spark arrestor was fairly clean, now just gotta decide if I want to mod the muffler.


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## 3000 FPS (Sep 4, 2013)

Scoutillac said:


> Already tore the muffler down and bead blasted it, the screen on the spark arrestor was fairly clean, now just gotta decide if I want to mod the muffler.



Yes mod the muffler.






View attachment 313107


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## Scoutillac (Sep 4, 2013)

I think I will have to get creative with the welder and scrap pile and see what I can come up with.

I want to get this thing really clean which will require pulling it way apart. Are there any special tricks to pulling the flywheel? how bout the gap between the flywheel and coil? I am thinking about breaking it all the way down so I can blast it and give it a fresh coat of paint. This saw has lived a rough life near the salt water and it shows.

BTW, how in the heck do you get to the carb bolts?


----------



## hotshot (Sep 5, 2013)

*Mm*



Scoutillac said:


> BTW, how in the heck do you get to the carb bolts?



No bolts on that series, just two machine screws that the heads are hidden down in the black foam rubber seal at both sides of the carb inlet. 

Instead of welding, you can cut a hole & easily silver solder a copper 7/8" street ell into the side at the top, pointing out frontwards. Don't forget to clip out a radius in the back deflector to clear it, and also to first trim the ell off close tt the inside bend with a hacksaw first. I'm not a real big fan of the side angled outlets like the one shown, as it blows upt too much dirt & leaves when you flush cut a tree stump off close to the ground. On the flip side, this mod blows the exhaust right into the log that you're bucking. Maybe a compromise is to point the ell upwards at 30-45 degrees...but still clearing the plastic top cover. 

Sorry for the crappy cell phone picture I just took, but you get the idea.


----------



## Eccentric (Sep 5, 2013)

Scoutillac said:


> I think I will have to get creative with the welder and scrap pile and see what I can come up with.
> 
> I want to get this thing really clean which will require pulling it way apart. Are there any special tricks to pulling the flywheel? how bout the gap between the flywheel and coil? I am thinking about breaking it all the way down so I can blast it and give it a fresh coat of paint. This saw has lived a rough life near the salt water and it shows.
> 
> BTW, how in the heck do you get to the carb bolts?



Remove the top cover to get to the carb. Take out the upper right two handlebar mounting screws. That'll let you pivot the handlebar so you can remove and reinstall the top cover.


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## Scoutillac (Sep 5, 2013)

I have torn the saw most of the way down, those carb screws are a bugger to get at


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## redunshee (Sep 5, 2013)

Eccentric said:


> Remove the top cover to get to the carb. Take out the upper right two handlebar mounting screws. That'll let you pivot the handlebar so you can remove and reinstall the top cover.



Yup. No other way to do it. My first 3400 I bought new in the early 80's I tried and tried to remove the top cover until I realized I he'd to swing the top handle forward to do so.


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## redunshee (Sep 5, 2013)

Scoutillac said:


> I have torn the saw most of the way down, those carb screws are a bugger to get at



Shouldn't be if you removed the top cover.


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## Magnumfloyd (Sep 5, 2013)

He might be talking about the plastic manifold screws.


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## redunshee (Sep 5, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> He might be talking about the plastic manifold screws.



Good point. Easiest way to remove those ,if that's the case is to pull the cylinder.


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## oakcutter (Sep 5, 2013)

I am happy to see this thread on here. The 3400 is an awesome saw. My father bought his new in 1980. He said that he wanted a husky but they were $100 more, so he bought the counter vibe. Just last week I used it and cut about one cord of oak with it. Afterwards, we talked about what a great saw it's been for him. That thing has cut A LOT of wood!


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## redunshee (Sep 5, 2013)

oakcutter said:


> I am happy to see this thread on here. The 3400 is an awesome saw. My father bought his new in 1980. He said that he wanted a husky but they were $100 more, so he bought the counter vibe. Just last week I used it and cut about one cord of oak with it. Afterwards, we talked about what a great saw it's been for him. That thing has cut A LOT of wood!



Totally agree. Go to the Stickies forum and the Poulan lovers thread for tons of poulan info.


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## Scoutillac (Sep 8, 2013)

Well, despite my analcranial impaction I got the carb rebuilt and the saw back together last night. This morning at 9 a.m. I fired it up and further increased the neighbors love for me:msp_w00t: she is still a touch cranky, maybe a lil more tuning is required, but it did sound sweet to hear her run after 5 years, and that lil muffler mod OH YEAH!!!!


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## Magnumfloyd (Sep 15, 2013)

Thanks to redunshee for the piston my 3400 is running better the ever. I could not get it to idle low last year and decided to pull the cylinder and found a broken ring and the pin that keeps the ring from spinning missing. Now my dilemma is do I keep the old 3400 or just run my newly acquired Poulan Pro 330?


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## Eccentric (Sep 15, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> Thanks to redunshee for the piston my 3400 is running better the ever. I could not get it to idle low last year and decided to pull the cylinder and found a broken ring and the pin that keeps the ring from spinning missing. Now my dilemma is *do I keep the old 3400 or just run my newly acquired Poulan Pro 330?*



Yes.


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## Magnumfloyd (Sep 15, 2013)

Eccentric said:


> Yes.



That's not really an answer. I guess I could always sell my stihl 026. 

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2


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## Eccentric (Sep 15, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> That's not really an answer. *I guess I could always sell my stihl 026.*



Yes.


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## Magnumfloyd (Sep 16, 2013)

So I just put a tank through the 3400 today and I must say I truly missed it. While the 026 is lighter the 3400 can have its bar fully buried and not slow down in some year old oak. Also I removed the base gasket and feel that it may have more power but that could just be in my head.


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## fossil (Sep 16, 2013)

Magnumfloyd said:


> So I just put a tank through the 3400 today and I must say I truly missed it. While the 026 is lighter the 3400 can have its bar fully buried and not slow down in some year old oak. Also I removed the base gasket and feel that it may have more power but that could just be in my head.



That was a long revival. I'm glad you finally got the old dog running and like it. 
I guess you can tell by the number of responses and the guys that stood by you that the "Green Guys" are passionate about these saws.


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## ThistleIA (Sep 16, 2013)

oakcutter said:


> I am happy to see this thread on here. The 3400 is an awesome saw. My father bought his new in 1980. He said that he wanted a husky but they were $100 more, so he bought the counter vibe. Just last week I used it and cut about one cord of oak with it. Afterwards, we talked about what a great saw it's been for him. That thing has cut A LOT of wood!



Dad bought his new in May 1981,I wasn't quite 18.Dropped my first big White Oak snag unsupervised with it a few months later.Over the years that torque monster never let us down.6 bars,3 spark plugs,3 air filters,2 sprockets & 25+ full chisel chains (that's all they had at farm supply store back then) hand-filed to nothing & over 200 loads of mostly oak/hickory.Was retired around 2002.In 2011 I bought another 3400 in good mechanical & cosmetic shape to have as a future ''parts source''.Tuned it up last spring,it still sounds & runs great.

Every few months I like to fire it up just to see Dad smile real big....

(Tried 3 times to add pics,but gave up for now...) :bang:


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## swegeman (Dec 26, 2013)

What is your guys opinion about the air filter, really a coarse screen for these saws. I did read somewhere that the OEM filter is restrictive air flow. What would you guys do?
I have 2 Craftsman/Poulan saws given to me. Did compression check 135 PSI for both. Already did Muffler Mod (3/8 holes in baffle and cut fish gill). I was considering removing spark arrestor screen and using as air filer screen? What do you guys think?


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## Magnumfloyd (Jan 5, 2014)

That filter needs to be replaced it is missing all the felt.


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