# 3120 on Pro Cut mill a work in progress



## lps8 (Mar 29, 2012)

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Saw mill with barn in background that was cut on mill. Lumber was tornado blow downs that people wanted moved from their yards.

Have had mill a couple of years now and been making changes as I get a chance to make improvements while still getting some lumber cut.

In progress now is modifying carb by adding a 3120 h adjustment.

Working on trying Stihl pmx chain as Logosol has introducted thru Baileys the pmx as available for up to 36" bars. 

When the carb is checked out and fully functional, Then changing to a higher limit coil or an unlimited one.

Larry


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## MHouse1028 (Mar 29, 2012)

thats an awesome setup you got there my friend...i have a nice 20' track leftover from my old ross bandmill i want to build a procut design roller setup on it for my 084..the saw is currently setup in a alaskan mill which i love but for some things i would like to have it on a track.i want to design it to cut tapered live edge siding...but anyhow i'll stop rambling ...nice setup would like to see more pics happy cutting p.s good job building the barn from repurposed logs better than them getting thrown away


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## lps8 (Mar 29, 2012)

*reclaiming some down cedar*







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Local cemetery had a cedar down. Will use it for counter tops for my wife's sewing area and for our bathroom vanities. Have used cedar for the doors on our house and for our kitchen cabinets.

Larry


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## MHouse1028 (Mar 29, 2012)

wow those are some amazing cedars ...i used to climb and prune lots of tree's in cemetary's and i used to see some of the best tree's there...every once and a while i would come a cross some real nice burl's there too..anyways nice logs


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## Dave Boyt (Mar 29, 2012)

Good cedar logs are a major find. I'd be interested in your opinion of the Stihl pmx chain-- and photos of your mill in operation. Thanks for the posts.


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## lps8 (Mar 29, 2012)

*a few sawmill pics*













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Photos from left to right. Top bar oiler, Machined from alum. I have read where some have trouble with bar hole getting stopped up. Have not had any problems when hole is drilled at the very back edge of chain slot.

Auxiliary oil and gas tanks, old lawn mower tanks.

Scale set up so when cant is flat side down, cuts can be calculated from the top so last piece is what you want it to be. Also, log dogs are marked as to height above zero so when they need to be raised, chain height can be referenced to dog height so as to not cut dogs. 

Dogs are cranked in by a threaded rod. I am not happy with the way they work and I have an idea to use a tongue jack that has side crank and moves 10" and does not have much slack up and down as my present system does. Right now we are using the tongue jacks to put down 1x6 t&g flooring. Jack the boards together as some are bowed or worse. Works great on the floor so I hope it will work on the mill when the floor is finished.

Larry


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## lps8 (Mar 31, 2012)

Some saw milled cedar, just out of the drying oven, waiting to be made into cabinets, shelving, etc.



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Here is a sample of some reclaimed cedar. I built 5 doors from down cedar from a farmer friend's pasture.

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## lps8 (Apr 2, 2012)

*Carb mods finished, H jet works*

Have been working on adding H adjustment to 3120 carb. Got it working today. Didn't work right at first, but had to go back and make a change after advice from a member on chainsaw form. (some pics on chainsaw forum as well)

View attachment 231898






Linen cabinet for our bathroom in our new house. Eastern Cedar milled on Pro Cut, dried, planed on 12 1/2 planer, first cabinet job.

Larry


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## gemniii (Apr 2, 2012)

Beautiful work.

What do you have for a 12 1/2" planer?


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## lps8 (Apr 2, 2012)

*planer*

Hello gemniii

My planer is a Rigid from Home Depot made by Ryobi. It is a 2 blade, the newer ones are 3 blade. It does pretty well. To finish off, I have an open throat drum sander that will sand up to +- 40" and I have a da sander for finish work. I used the drum sander to sand edge glued panels such as the inserts in the piece you see in the photo.

Larry


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## mtngun (Apr 2, 2012)

lps8 said:


> Working on trying Stihl pmx chain as Logosol has introducted thru Baileys the pmx as available for up to 36" bars.


PMX is lo-pro. Not recommended for 120cc saws and requires special sprockets.

Not much advantage to the PMX/Granberg grind. It was Will Malloff's 1st design for ripping chain. His 2nd design cuts faster.

Envy your cedar.


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## lps8 (Apr 2, 2012)

Mtngun
Thanks for the advice.
I realize pmx is lp. Baileys sells it thru logosol up to 36 bars. Rated for 100cc, so I thought I would push the envelope a little With a 32 bar to see if I could get a little more speed and a smaller kerf. Supposedly stihl links are a little heavier than other lp. will see. Have 15 reg 3/8 mill chains to go back to.

Bailey's logosol guy said it will work on a reg 3/8 set up. Had seen the same conclusion elsewhere. Supposedly a little mismatch, but will still work. I'll keep u posted. 

Larry


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## BobL (Apr 3, 2012)

lps8 said:


> Mtngun
> Thanks for the advice.
> I realize pmx is lp. Baileys sells it thru logosol up to 36 bars. Rated for 100cc, so I thought I would push the envelope a little With a 32 bar to see if I could get a little more speed and a smaller kerf. Supposedly stihl links are a little heavier than other lp. will see.
> Bailey's logosol guy said it will work on a reg 3/8 set up. Had seen the same conclusion elsewhere. Supposedly a little mismatch, but will still work. I'll keep u posted.



I have been experimenting with a roll of LP on my 441 and after a couple of hours of use my 050 GB bar sprocket is fine but the 441 has started to really mess up the drive links. This means the 3120 will shred the drive links and mangle the sprocket. I have to run the chain really tight on the 441 to stop it from jumping the sprocket. That chain won't make much difference in softwoods like cedar as your 3120 is chain speed and not power limited. If you want more cutting speed try higher raker angles. You should be able to run 10º in small cedars.


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## mtngun (Apr 3, 2012)

lps8 said:


> Bailey's logosol guy said it will work on a reg 3/8 set up. Had seen the same conclusion elsewhere. Supposedly a little mismatch, but will still work.


Nope, it will ding the drive links. Some people get away with it, probably because their bar groove is wallowed out enough to swallow the dinged links. 

I've broken lo-pro on an 84cc saw. 

Simplest way to cut faster is to grind your 3/8 chain the Malloff way, and experiment with more aggressive rakers.


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## lps8 (Apr 3, 2012)

*lo pro chain*



BobL said:


> I have been experimenting with a roll of LP on my 441 and after a couple of hours of use my 050 GB bar sprocket is fine but the 441 has started to really mess up the drive links. This means the 3120 will shred the drive links and mangle the sprocket. I have to run the chain really tight on the 441 to stop it from jumping the sprocket. That chain won't make much difference in softwoods like cedar as your 3120 is chain speed and not power limited. If you want more cutting speed try higher raker angles. You should be able to run 10º in small cedars.



Hello Bob, really appreciate your craftsmanship and fabrication that I have seen in you posts. Most of my fabrication was blue flame (torch and welder), but in recent years I have gotten a mill and lathe that I am learning as I go.

I just received the pmx chain and an 8 tooth sprocket today. I also wanted to try the 8 pin sprocket to see what that would do.







View attachment 232193


What is wrong with this picture? Is there something I am missing about the chain and sprocket. It looks like it should work????

I have run reg 3/8 chain from 0* to 30*. They all cut. I was looking for a thinner kerf, also. I am going to do more serious timed study on different chains, sprockets, unlimited coil, etc. I want to maximize my cutting with what I have, then all that will be left to do is saw. Playing will be over. Have plans to build a small cabin from pine sawed on the mill.

I have also cut the rakers down and also cut them down at an angle as I had read somewhere. I just need to do a little better record keeping to see which changes are worthwhile.

If I were to get serious about mini mill production, I would get the Lucas mill, but I don't want to work hard enough to make make it pay for itself. I have a house boat to build when I get this house done. Then some bass fishing.

Thanks for the advice.

Larry


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## lps8 (Apr 3, 2012)

*what is the Malloff way?*



mtngun said:


> Nope, it will ding the drive links. Some people get away with it, probably because their bar groove is wallowed out enough to swallow the dinged links.
> 
> I've broken lo-pro on an 84cc saw.
> 
> Simplest way to cut faster is to grind your 3/8 chain the Malloff way, and experiment with more aggressive rakers.



Hello Mtngun,

Appreciate the input, but I have the same question for you that I had for Bobl about the chain and sprocket. Do you see anything wrong with the pics in the post above. Or do I just not know what I am looking at?

What is the Malloff way?

I have plenty of 3/8" chains. I have 15 for my mill, but I am trying some new things to pick up some speed and was looking for a thinner kerf. Might not be any better, but enjoy learning new things.

Thanks.

Larry


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## lps8 (Apr 4, 2012)

*malloff way, I found it.*



lps8 said:


> Hello Mtngun,
> 
> Appreciate the input, but I have the same question for you that I had for Bobl about the chain and sprocket. Do you see anything wrong with the pics in the post above. Or do I just not know what I am looking at?
> 
> ...




Well, I answered my own question. I found the info on the madoff way to sharpen a chain. Looks interesting.

Larry


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## BobL (Apr 4, 2012)

You picture looks exactly like what mine used to look like.

You see those little red lines they are not all the same length. 




This means only one drive link is taking the cutting load during that half turn of the sprocket which places a large force on one drive link instead of across several several links. This stretches the chain very fast and within a few minutes of operation the chain stretches so much the link at the exit slot of the sprocket prevents the link at the entrance slot from entering its slot and the chain will jump the sprocket.


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## lps8 (Apr 7, 2012)

*some wood for the mill*




View attachment 232670


Future work.

Neighbor called to ask if I wanted a few pine logs. Had heard I had a mill and wanted to give them away. Only a 1/2 mill down the road, so took tractor to load and trailer to haul and picked them up.

Now, just need to get house ready to move in so I can do some other things like sawmilling. 

Will try to do some videos as requested when I start.

Larry


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## lps8 (Apr 15, 2012)

*more lowpro stuff and pics*

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Pic of Stihl low pro after being run on my 3120. It has been used enough if there were a problem, it should show up. It was used on a fairly well used 7 tooth sprocket and a 3/8 Carlton bar. The grind on this chain was a standard grind, not a rip grind. Chain was comparable time wise with a reg 3/8 chain with a rip grind as per Will Malloff, as suggested. Like the Malloff grind. Will use it for a while and see how it goes. 

Have some more things to try, but so far no problem with the low pro. Have not tried the rip low pro from Baileys yet. Don't know when I will get to as we are getting close to getting finished enough to move in our house.

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6"x12" pine beam for decoration in house.


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## lps8 (Apr 16, 2012)

*Video of pro cut in action*

[video=youtube_share;BkJDD3RZ5tk]http://youtu.be/BkJDD3RZ5tk[/video]

Pro Cut with Husky 3120 in action. Cutting 5" wide pine with Stihl lp regular grind. Still has carb with fixed h. Have kit for modified one, but have not had time to install kit.

Larry

IMG_0216.MOV - YouTube


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## BobL (Apr 16, 2012)

Nice vid - thanks for posting.

I'd really like to see a close up of the drive links - something like this.






The circled area is the impact after a couple of hours of cutting hardwood with lo-pro on my 441. 
The other chain is new low-pro
The only way I can keep the used chain on is by tightening it really hard.

If you are only making 5" wide cuts in softwood I can see why you have had no problems so far as this width of cut will hardly place any back pressure on the sprocket.


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## lps8 (Apr 17, 2012)

*no photos of chain yet*

Bobl, I have not had time to take another pic of chain. I did cut more than a 5" piece of pine, but not a lot. I cut some wider logs and had cut some cedar another day. I have not have any trouble with the chain jumping off nor do I run any tighter than normal. 

When I timed the cut in the 5" cant, the reg 3/8ths with a Malloff grind cut just a little faster. It's a real aggressive cut and it throws some chips. I want to try the 8 tooth sprocket, but when I have time to measure if it actually helps. 

I am still going to get the carb up to speed (haven't had time to try the kit, it worked when I first put it on and then was not right the next time I went to use it) and change the coil, but I am trying to get in my house. Working on doing the stone work on the fireplace. Have an Opel II that is supposed to heat my whole house. Have a source for free oak.

Chain saw milling seems to be slow no matter what, but I am going to try to speed things up as much as I can. When I'm doing stuff, I don't like wasted motion. If I was going to mill for money, I would get a swing blade from Baileys cause all I see chain saw milling for is for personal use.

Enough going on for now, bed time in Alabama.

Larry


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## hamish (Apr 17, 2012)

One suggestion to speed up your times, try slowing down and decreasing your feed pressure to keep the saw in its sweet spot,then check, check and triple check that the rig is straight and then ensure your cant is not under stress causing it to bind the bar.


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## BobL (Apr 18, 2012)

lps8 said:


> Bobl, I have not had time to take another pic of chain. I did cut more than a 5" piece of pine, but not a lot. I cut some wider logs and had cut some cedar another day. I have not have any trouble with the chain jumping off nor do I run any tighter than normal.


That is interesting, I guess the softer wood doesn't produce the same degree of back pressure that the hardwoods do. 



> When I timed the cut in the 5" cant, the reg 3/8ths with a Malloff grind cut just a little faster. It's a real aggressive cut and it throws some chips. I want to try the 8 tooth sprocket, but when I have time to measure if it actually helps.


An 8 tooth sprocket will definitely help and if you do a lot of narrow cuts I would even consider using a 9 tooth. Another way for narrow cuts is to use dedicated chain with a much lower rakers; eg raker-cutter- wood angles of around 10º



> I am still going to get the carb up to speed (haven't had time to try the kit, it worked when I first put it on and then was not right the next time I went to use it) and change the coil, but I am trying to get in my house. Working on doing the stone work on the fireplace. Have an Opel II that is supposed to heat my whole house. Have a source for free oak.


Sounds like a good use of resources.



> Chain saw milling seems to be slow no matter what, but I am going to try to speed things up as much as I can. When I'm doing stuff, I don't like wasted motion. If I was going to mill for money, I would get a swing blade from Baileys cause all I see chain saw milling for is for personal use.


I agree about CS milling being slow no matter what and I know what you mean about wasted motion, (I must be the laziest CS miller I know)


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## lps8 (Apr 19, 2012)

*low pro chain, Malloff book*



BobL said:


> An 8 tooth sprocket will definitely help and if you do a lot of narrow cuts I would even consider using a 9 tooth. Another way for narrow cuts is to use dedicated chain with a much lower rakers; eg raker-cutter- wood angles of around 10º



When I sharpened the 3/8 rakers, I think I set them on 8* angle and cut them down .040 with a 1/4 wheel on my Northern tool sharpened. I am no good with a file. I just make a mess and I know it. 

Bob1, are you familiar with the way Malloff shows to sharpen his chains? Mtngun mentioned that and I looked it up and actually downloaded his book. It was $10 buck or so, but has a lot of good info. Thanks, Mtngun.

Bob1, I noticed you use an 088 to mill, what kind of rpm do you turn? I have been wondering if I could do some porting on my 3120 for more power in the 9,000 rpm range. I may ask around when I have time to mess with it and I will order another cylinder and piston to play with.

Here is the best photo I could get of the chain. With my phone, I could not get the reflection in the pic even though I could see it.


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## BobL (Apr 19, 2012)

lps8 said:


> When I sharpened the 3/8 rakers, I think I set them on 8* angle and cut them down .040 with a 1/4 wheel on my Northern tool sharpened. I am no good with a file. I just make a mess and I know it.


Those rakers don't look like they are set at 0.040 to me. More comments on the chain below



> Bob1, are you familiar with the way Malloff shows to sharpen his chains? Mtngun mentioned that and I looked it up and actually downloaded his book. It was $10 buck or so, but has a lot of good info. Thanks, Mtngun.


Yep, I've studied his book front to back for about 4 years - It's a great read but I'm not convinced by all his methods especially with regards chains. For example his doesn't use progressive raker setting and that has been my most significant factor in improving overall cutting speed.



> Bob1, I noticed you use an 088 to mill, what kind of rpm do you turn? I have been wondering if I could do some porting on my 3120 for more power in the 9,000 rpm range. I may ask around when I have time to mess with it and I will order another cylinder and piston to play with.


My RPMs are whatever I decide they are for the log/sprocket/chain conditions. With a fresh chain with highish rakers in softer wood and narrow cuts they could be around 10k with a 7 pin and maybe 9.5 with an 8 pin. In harder wider wood with low rakers they are more like 8.5 k using a 8 pin. 



> Here is the best photo I could get of the chain.


Some comments on your chain below this pic





It looks like some of the drive links are developing a little bashing but if you cay you have done a fair bit of milling with it already it's not that bad.
The rakers definitely don't look like they are set at 0.040" - If you take a square to side on pick of a cutter I can measure it from the photo.
The cutter hook looks to be insufficient - have a look at how much hook Malloff uses on his chains


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## mtngun (Apr 19, 2012)

The only way to know for sure is to measure the thickness of the drive links. If his bar groove is worn then it may not complain even if the drive links are peened.


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## lps8 (Apr 19, 2012)

*chain stuff comments*

Mntgun, I have not checked bar, but as long as the rakers are not messed up, the bar should not be an issue yet. I have previously closed up the bar and dressed the ridge off. I have had a chain with the rakers really messed up. When I first got the 3120, it was supposed to have a 3/8 bar and chain. Well, it had a .404 and I didn't realize and when I put a 3/8 chain on it, messed up!!!!



BobL said:


> Those rakers don't look like they are set at 0.040 to me. More comments on the chain below
> 
> It looks like some of the drive links are developing a little bashing but if you cay you have done a fair bit of milling with it already it's not that bad.
> The rakers definitely don't look like they are set at 0.040" - If you take a square to side on pick of a cutter I can measure it from the photo.
> ...



Sorry, but I had talked earlier that the chain in the pics is a std low pro stihl. I should have mentioned that with the photo. I have not checked or touched the rakers and it has the std 30*/35* top cut. The 3/8 that I was talking about, I have not taken a photo, but I will. I have not used the low pro mill chain that I got from Baileys, as I kinda slowed down on that because of yours and Mntgun's concerns. I will sharpen the std low pro with Malloff grind (hit some fence wire in the last log) and see how long it lasts and if it is worth the effort and extra expense. So far, based on timed cuts on the same board, the std 3/8 chain with Malloff cut is a little faster. Will be a little while before I get to try it again as I am working on my fireplace. Will post a pic when I get thru. x




Bobl, was it you that did the sketch on changing raker angle as the tooth wore down. That was what I went by when I ground the 3/8 chain (that I don't have a pic of).


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## BobL (Apr 19, 2012)

lps8 said:


> . . . Well, it had a .404 and I didn't realize and when I put a 3/8 chain on it, messed up!!!!


That will do it.



> Sorry, but I had talked earlier that the chain in the pics is a std low pro stihl. I should have mentioned that with the photo. I have not checked or touched the rakers and it has the std 30*/35* top cut. The 3/8 that I was talking about, I have not taken a photo, but I will.
> 
> 
> > Thanks for clarifying that. Either way the picture of the chain in the photo looks like it could use more hook.
> ...


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## pwoller (Apr 19, 2012)

lps8 said:


> Bobl, I have not had time to take another pic of chain. I did cut more than a 5" piece of pine, but not a lot. I cut some wider logs and had cut some cedar another day. I have not have any trouble with the chain jumping off nor do I run any tighter than normal.
> 
> When I timed the cut in the 5" cant, the reg 3/8ths with a Malloff grind cut just a little faster. It's a real aggressive cut and it throws some chips. I want to try the 8 tooth sprocket, but when I have time to measure if it actually helps.
> 
> ...



What is the kit for the carb that you are referring to?


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## lps8 (Apr 21, 2012)

*carb kit*



pwoller said:


> What is the kit for the carb that you are referring to?



I am talking about a carb rebuild kit. I did some mods to a spare carb that I had bought. After the mods, I put it on and tried it out and it ran fine. The next time I cranked the saw, it did not run right, so I put the stock carb back on. I am going to clean the modded carb out and put a kit in it to see if my mods are ok. If not, then I will have to punt (figure out where I went wrong).

Larry


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## lps8 (Apr 25, 2012)

*cranked up the mill for a mantel board*

Have been working on rocking fireplace in new house, so I fired up the mill to cut a mantel. I wanted a little bigger piece, so I may have to cut another log. I see how it looks when I get further along. The way I am going to mount it, I can change it if I don't like the way it looks.

This photo shows mainly scratch coat. I'm slow, my first stone job.

View attachment 235615
View attachment 235617


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## Dave Boyt (Apr 26, 2012)

That's going to be one beautiful fireplace. Take your time, you've got a great start on it!


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## lps8 (Apr 26, 2012)

*thanks Dave*

As they say in Alabama, I'm fixin to go git it. I'm so slow, it looks like I'm taking my time no matter how much I try, but it's my first time.

Larry


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## lps8 (Apr 29, 2012)

*time for the mantel mount*

Finally got thru all the cutting and fitting around the fireplace and wood box. Still have to do the back of the wood box. Ready to do the mantel mounts. Going to bolt 2) 3/8" plates with 1 1/2" pipes sticking out and then drill the mantel to slide on the pipe. View attachment 236233


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## lps8 (Apr 30, 2012)

*saw mill beam and mantel went up today.*

Put up the mantel mounts today. They are strong enough for me to hang my 200 pounds on them. Turns out to be a great mount.
View attachment 236419






Put up a pine beam cut on my Pro Cut mill. Wood was free from a neighbor. Beam is just for looks. Wife wanted concealed lighting so light will be mounted on the ceiling behind the beam. This is her sewing/craft area. I am going to put in a cedar counter top the length of the opening.
View attachment 236423







Put up the mantel cut from Eastern Cedar for cemetery blow down. Hope to finish the stone work by Wednesday. Larry
View attachment 236430


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## Dave Boyt (May 1, 2012)

Nice. Keep the pictures coming



.


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## lps8 (May 3, 2012)

*Dave, you asked for it, almost finished pic*

Have a little touch-up grouting to do, then finish walls with satin lacquer, so the floor finishers can finish floor.
The wood box will have the tv mounted on top.

Larry

View attachment 236764


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## lps8 (May 10, 2012)

*more photos today's work*

Built bath vanity today. Still have to make drawers and doors. Took longer to design and make drawing than to build it. Use sinks designed for pedestal mount and had to cut vanity top to fit sinks. Took a little work to work out the design of the vanity front.

Vanity top is cedar milled on csm, dried, planed and sanded. Drawer fronts, doors, face frame is also cedar from csm.

On another note, floor finisher finished the pine floors today. We put down 1x6 t&g pine. (I bought it). I could not get in to take a pic today, will try to have one tomorrow. It looked great from the window. Looked like glass.

Will put in cabinets as soon as we can get on floor and then have appliances installed. 

Photos of bath vanity, could not get a good view in the shop. Will get another one when finished.

View attachment 237749






Hope to get a little work done on 3120 carb after we get moved in the house. Still want to have adjustable carb, higher revs or unlimited and right chain speed and add a ported p&c. Will probably order p&c and keep the original stock.


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