# My first cutting jig for the chainsaw mill



## hazard (Aug 8, 2008)

I have talked about this jig but have never taken pictures of it. I have probably milled 30 logs with this setup. I started out with the granberg rails and there system. I did not like how limiting the jig was. The log always had to be at a certain length.

Here I am leveling the square tubing. I do not have any set distance I put the tubing down on the log. I leave enough room so I can place the 2x4's on each end. Also do not put the 2x4's down below the log of the mill will hit the log.










Here I placed the 2x4's on the tubing and clamped them in.

















2x4 with 2x2 for clamping





Set the mill depth for 5 1/2". If you go less you will hit the clamps with the chain. You can still get a board out of the first cut slab. I personally cut everything at 1 1/8" so if this isn't absolutely perfect it doesn't matter.

Chris


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## deeker (Aug 9, 2008)

Great pics and story, please continue.......opcorn: opcorn: 

Kevin


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## hazard (Aug 9, 2008)

There is nothing more to really add. I didn't saw this chunk up. I did it as an example.

I have a few elm logs lined up to saw when it gets a little cooler out. I can wait.

I have heard about some walnut trees that people want to have taken down in town. Free of charge of course because they think the walnut is so valuable.

Chris


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## wdanforth (Aug 9, 2008)

*Please finish the lesson*

Chris your homemade set up looks like something a newbie like me could try. Will you please show the chainsaw setup. Looks like some kind of a guide rides on top of the 2x4 and the saw cuts below. 

"Set the mill depth for 5 1/2"" I asking for a picture of the "mill".

Thanks,
Bill


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## guitarborist (Aug 11, 2008)

Thanks for the pics and commentary. I always get new ideas for my own milling projects when people share their knowledge.


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## Brmorgan (Aug 23, 2008)

Like the idea and might give it a shot soon. My only concern however is possible sag over longer distances - I frequently cut logs 12-16 feet long. I guess if you made sure the inside edges of the guides are resting on the log it should be OK. Have you figured out a way to be able to cut logs longer than the guide rails? Right now, I just put blocks on each end of the log, run a chalkline end-to-end and drive lag bolts into the log to the level of the line, and then move my guide board down the log as necessary. Did a 20-foot log with a 12-foot guide 2X8 this way and it was poker-straight. I guess maybe some systems are just more suited to certain applications. Not having to drive a whole bunch of leveler lags on shorter logs is a plus though.


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## hazard (Aug 23, 2008)

If you are going longer length use a 2x6 instead of the 2x4. I have never had a problem with sag. I have had the guides move in some or flex but it wasn't enough to notice on the boards.

I have never had a reason to cut something longer then 7'. Most of my furniture uses boards less then 4'. Also cutting oak that is 10'x2'x1" becomes very heavy. That might sound like I am a puss but if I don't need the length of board I don't want to have to carry that much weight out of the woods.

Chris


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## Brmorgan (Aug 25, 2008)

hazard said:


> If you are going longer length use a 2x6 instead of the 2x4. I have never had a problem with sag. I have had the guides move in some or flex but it wasn't enough to notice on the boards.
> 
> I have never had a reason to cut something longer then 7'. Most of my furniture uses boards less then 4'. Also cutting oak that is 10'x2'x1" becomes very heavy. That might sound like I am a puss but if I don't need the length of board I don't want to have to carry that much weight out of the woods.
> 
> Chris



Yeah, point taken. (I see your 10'X2'X1" and raise you a 16"X4"X20'!) Right now I'm cutting mostly structural stuff like beams and 2Xs so I need the length factor. As I get my wood shop set up I'll be moving more towards your end of things, ideally. Depends on where I can make enough money to hopefully do it full-time.


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## woodshop (Aug 25, 2008)

hazard said:


> ...I have never had a reason to cut something longer then 7'. Most of my furniture uses boards less then 4'. Also cutting oak that is 10'x2'x1" becomes very heavy. That might sound like I am a puss but if I don't need the length of board I don't want to have to carry that much weight out of the woods.
> Chris



I also don't like to mill more than 8ft long 8/4 because most wet hardwood is around 5lbs a bd ft, so the 12 inch boards start to push 100lbs at that point and thus are no fun to move/sticker/store. Unfortunately though, I do have need for some thick stock for some of the product I make and sell at shows, so I do mill a lot of heavy boards. In many cases I will then mill them only 8 inches wide, as that is the limit of my jointer. If I'm making boards for furniture I end up ripping the wide boards down to 8 inches first anyway.


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## oldsaw (Aug 25, 2008)

My storage area allows for a 7 1/2 foot width, and I mill accordingly. Cut the logs at 8', and by the time they are trimmed, they fit the slot nicely. I don't have much use for long hardwood either.

Mark


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