# Husqvarna 61 Rancher, Older.



## STIHL880 (Feb 11, 2011)

Can I get as much info on this chainsaw as possible?? I need to get some stuff for it, and I have been searching for HOURS to find out, but i can't seem to find it anywhere.
Bar size's it can handle, Fuel mixture, Things like that, oh, and the process of starting it like you would reading an owners manual, Thank you guys in advance. (these are Not my pictures, nor my chainsaw, but there for you to see what i have to help(


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## SawTroll (Feb 11, 2011)

Here is an IPL for a "black top" 61. The "black tops" are not the really old ones.
If you posted the serial number it would be easier to find the exact IPL for your saw.

I tried to attach a WS manual from 1988, but the file is too large (over 20mb)....


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## STIHL880 (Feb 11, 2011)

Hmm, well, I'll have too look, I'll get a pic of it, thank you very much Saw.


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## RiverRat2 (Feb 11, 2011)

I have one of those saws,,, its a good runner,,,, and is complete,,, All it needs is some TLC cleaning up, and will need a new pull rope eventually I will pull the muffler and post up some pics of the piston, Which If I remember its a one ring piston and if memory serves me correctly it still has the machine grooves on the piston so it hasnt been run very much and cosmetically its still very clean (not scarred up). its wearing a 20" bar that still has all the grey paint on it but the blue Husky lettering is a little worn, it has a fresh loop of what looks like Husky/Oregon LGX chain, doesnt appear to have been ground/sharpened. I took it in on a trade in & it's been setting in my shop for over a year and needs a new home!!!

I think as a 60CC class saw it should wear a 20" bar with no trouble but should pull an 18 really well,,,


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## leed3349 (Feb 11, 2011)

*husky 61*

i have 2 and i have 18 bar on 3/8 chain and 20 bar on 3/8 chain it pulls very good they are very good firewood saws and are 60cc good luck with it


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## bama (Feb 11, 2011)

I run a 20" on mine, but it was a white top. I ended up throwing a Jonsered 630 top and air filter(plus filter mount) on it. Need to find a kill switch, though. Been using the choke for awhile.


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## SawTroll (Feb 11, 2011)

RiverRat2 said:


> .....
> I think as a 60CC class saw it should wear a 20" bar with no trouble but should pull an 18 really well,,,



The 61 is a relatively weak 60cc saw, I would stay under 20"


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## SawTroll (Feb 11, 2011)

bama said:


> I run a 20" on mine, but it was a white top. I ended up throwing a Jonsered 630 top and air filter(plus filter mount) on it. Need to find a kill switch, though. Been using the choke for awhile.



That surely added some power!


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## lcso10 (Feb 11, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> The 61 is a relatively weak 60cc saw, I would stay under 20"


 
I agree. I would not go over a 18" myself. Seems to perform better with a 18" compared to a 20".


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## andrethegiant70 (Feb 11, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> Here is an IPL for a "black top" 61. The "black tops" are not the really old ones.
> If you posted the serial number it would be easier to find the exact IPL for your saw.
> 
> I tried to attach a WS manual from 1988, but the file is too large (over 20mb)....


 
Indeed, a lot of these are Frankensaws... I wouldn't even just assume the top was original... I'd check the name plate by the oil fill cap... might be a 266 or something.

Sharp-looking unit.


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## bama (Feb 11, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> That surely added some power!


 
Yes it did. It does what I ask of it and I only run it in oak and ash. Sharp chain makes up for any lack of power.


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## RiverRat2 (Feb 11, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> The 61 is a relatively weak 60cc saw, I would stay under 20"



I agree that why I said it could wear a 20",,,,, but An 18" would be better??????????

If Saw Troll keeps messin with me I got A 266 topend Ill stick on it and run tha PIZZ out of a 20 if I want to!!!!!


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## RiverRat2 (Feb 11, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> The 61 is a relatively weak 60cc saw, I would stay under 20"



The serial# on my little Hoosky, is 5382731 is the 82 year model???

Check it out,,, still has Machine grooves on tha piston and tha ring!!!!

View attachment 171982


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## SawTroll (Feb 11, 2011)

RiverRat2 said:


> The serial# on my little Hoosky, is 5382731 is the 82 year model???
> 
> Check it out,,, still has Machine grooves on tha piston and tha ring!!!!
> 
> View attachment 171982


 

If the number plate is "silver" it is a 1985, if it is black it is a 1995. What model is it?


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## RiverRat2 (Feb 11, 2011)

61,,, Silver tag,,, it really cuts pretty decent with the 20,,, would make someone a great firewood saw. It is light weight and sturdy built... made in Sweden, it is a real Husqvarna

I think you are right though,, the 18 would be optimal


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## SawTroll (Feb 11, 2011)

RiverRat2 said:


> 61,,, Silver tag,,, it really cuts pretty decent with the 20,,, would make someone a great firewood saw. It is light weight and sturdy built... made in Sweden, it is a real Husqvarna
> 
> I think you are right though,, the 18 would be optimal



The number tags changed from "silver" to black for 1987 - the dating is no mystery! 

Btw, there are exceptions, with saws that were not made in Sweden.


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## bama (Feb 11, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> Btw, there are exceptions, with saws that were not made in Sweden.


 
Mine was made in Yugoslavia. Looked like it was beat to death, but it has worked well for me. I do prefer the Husky top handle angle to the Jonsered, so I tend to run it more than the red if I only bring 2 saws to the woods.


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## SawTroll (Feb 11, 2011)

bama said:


> Mine was made in Yugoslavia. Looked like it was beat to death, but it has worked well for me. I do prefer the Husky top handle angle to the Jonsered, so I tend to run it more than the red if I only bring 2 saws to the woods.




The Yugo saws are just what I referred to!


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## boutselis (Feb 11, 2011)

Mine is a 1983 made in sweden.

I don't find mine to be very weak for its size. I have an 036 pro also and I think I actually prefer the 61. I haven't used them side by side on the same day though. Just as memory serves I liked the 61. I haven't cleaned it since its last workout over the week end. Looks filthy.


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## STIHL880 (Feb 12, 2011)

Okay, you guys have been a GREAT help. The tag (Or VIN plate as I like to call them, lmfao) is black, it says:
"Husqvarna 61
8150399
Husqvarna Sweden."

Can anyone tell me what that means? (I'm a STIHL man, I have owned a few husky's but mostly i own and use STIHL, My Bud gave it to me and said i should try it. so i'm gonna get it rebuilt and see. But more info is better. (Don't mind the pull start handle, when i got this saw, it didn't have a pull cord so I improvised what I had laying around the "Saw shop". I'll post up pics in a minute, let me go take some, Sorry, they have to be my cell, i dropped my wifes camera while limbing a tree,


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## Roanoker494 (Feb 12, 2011)

STIHL880 said:


> Okay, you guys have been a GREAT help. The tag (Or VIN plate as I like to call them, lmfao) is black, it says:
> "Husqvarna 61
> 8150399
> Husqvarna Sweden."


 
If I am not mistaken the first three numbers tells us 8= 1988 and 15= 15th week.
The rest of the numbers tells us what order it was built in, nothing that is going to help.

Edit:
I believe the model 61 first came around in the late 70's or early 80's, so this 61 is one of the later models.


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## RiverRat2 (Feb 12, 2011)

boutselis said:


> Mine is a 1983 made in sweden.
> 
> I don't find mine to be very weak for its size. I have an 036 pro also and I think I actually prefer the 61. I haven't used them side by side on the same day though. Just as memory serves I liked the 61. I haven't cleaned it since its last workout over the week end. Looks filthy.



Yeah I hear what you are saying about not being weak for its size I was tuning mine yesterday in some hard oak after SawTroll was dogging them about not pulling a 20" bar very well (Imagine that!!!!) :monkey: and it had no trouble @ all??????? I bet it would really come alive with an 18" bar,, JMHO it does really well for a 26 year old saw, Does any one have the WOT RPM spec???? mine has a nice Tillotson Carby on it,,,, I dont see anything on it that refers to Rancher Logo any where on it???



SawTroll said:


> The number tags changed from "silver" to black for 1987 - the dating is no mystery!
> 
> Btw, there are exceptions, with saws that were not made in Sweden.



Thats why you have the title of Information Guru Niko!!!!! Keep up the good work on keeping us straight!!!


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## SawTroll (Feb 12, 2011)

Roanoker494 said:


> If I am not mistaken the first three numbers tells us 8= 1988 and 15= 15th week.
> The rest of the numbers tells us what order it was built in, nothing that is going to help.
> .......



Yes, that is correct.

The 61 first appeared in 1977, and the first ones were the "white tops". The most recent ones are all orange.


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## RiverRat2 (Feb 12, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> Yes, that is correct.
> 
> The 61 first appeared in 1977, and the first ones were the "white tops". The most recent ones are all orange.


 
So Niko what is the Max RPM???? for my 1985 silver tag black topped version???


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## SawTroll (Feb 12, 2011)

RiverRat2 said:


> So Niko what is the Max RPM???? for my 1985 silver tag black topped version???



The documentation say max 12,000 rpm on the late ones - some sourses say 12,500. That is as close as I get.


*Edit;* The 1988 WS manual also say 12,000.


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## RiverRat2 (Feb 12, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> The documentation say max 12,000 rpm on the late ones - some sourses say 12,500. That is as close as I get.
> 
> 
> *Edit;* The 1988 WS manual also say 12,000.



Hey Niko while you are looking,, is the chain oiler adjustable??? if so where is it?? it's making plenty of bar oil!!!! :msp_ohmy:


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## Kwdog75 (Feb 12, 2011)

i have one too but it won't idle, put a new p/c, muffler, carb and still a mystery.


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## MechanicMatt (Feb 12, 2011)

boutselis said:


> Mine is a 1983 made in sweden.
> 
> I don't find mine to be very weak for its size. I have an 036 pro also and I think I actually prefer the 61. I haven't used them side by side on the same day though. Just as memory serves I liked the 61. I haven't cleaned it since its last workout over the week end. Looks filthy.


 
I love the look of the WHITE top the best. My 50 has a white top, hmm seems the 61 is like a bigger brother. CAD is the worst now Im gonna be on ebay all night looking for one. PS my 50 is a 1983 as well. SAW TROLL, when did they switch to black and then orange???


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## bama (Feb 12, 2011)

RiverRat2 said:


> Hey Niko while you are looking,, is the chain oiler adjustable??? if so where is it?? it's making plenty of bar oil!!!! :msp_ohmy:


 
Doesn't yours have the adjustment like the 6-- series Jonsereds? Mine has the adjustment in the same place.


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## weimedog (Feb 13, 2011)

Here is what the first generation 61 Ranchers looked like 

(This particular one happens to have an adjustable oil pump...sort of like a 272 pump for that matter and it's tuned to no load RPM's of 13,200 with a nice chocolate brown plug & nice 4-stroking until it gets a load...It wears an 18inch bar that's really for a Homelite but has been hacked to work with this 61 Rancher. AND I can tell with out a doubt it will cut faster than my much newer Husqvarna 455 Rancher...not even in the same league! I have a hunch it will cut faster than a Husqvarna 460 Rancher as well. And its lighter as well....so much for progress! I believe the cases & covers were made in 1978 on this one.)


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## STIHL880 (Feb 13, 2011)

Well, I'd post a few pictures of it, but The manage attachment thing ain't working, Hmmm:msp_confused: but i'll get some up soon. Thanks for all the info on this saw guys, it should really come in handy when I start the rebuild.


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## RiverRat2 (Feb 13, 2011)

bama said:


> Doesn't yours have the adjustment like the 6-- series Jonsereds? Mine has the adjustment in the same place.



Ive never owned a Jonsered,,,,,,, so I have no Idea of what a 6 series is?? much less where the oiler adjustment is. All I know is its a silver tag huskie 61 with a black top and a metal Chain brake handle and it runs really well???? 

Sorry,, I'm basically a Creamsicle guy,, Ive got a few huskies but dont know much about them,,,, Like on this saw whats the trick to getting the carb off without drilling a hole in the back of the crankcase??? cutting the short end of your 5mm allen off?? I hate destroying tools... That botttom screw is a pita



weimedog said:


> Here is what the first generation 61 Ranchers looked like
> 
> (This particular one happens to have an adjustable oil pump...sort of like a 272 pump for that matter and it's tuned to no load RPM's of 13,200 with a nice chocolate brown plug & nice 4-stroking until it gets a load...It wears an 18inch bar that's really for a Homelite but has been hacked to work with this 61 Rancher. AND I can tell with out a doubt it will cut faster than my much newer Husqvarna 455 Rancher...not even in the same league! I have a hunch it will cut faster than a Husqvarna 460 Rancher as well. And its lighter as well....so much for progress! I believe the cases & covers were made in 1978 on this one.)


Since you know how to post pics,,,, can you post one with where the adjustment is ???? I see you have a muffler Mod is that all thats done or is it woods ported as well,, That generation had no chainbrake??????


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## SawTroll (Feb 13, 2011)

weimedog said:


> Here is what the first generation 61 Ranchers looked like
> 
> AND I can tell with out a doubt it will cut faster than my much newer Husqvarna 455 Rancher...not even in the same league! I have a hunch it will cut faster than a Husqvarna 460 Rancher as well. And its lighter as well....so much for progress! I believe the cases & covers were made in 1978 on this one.)
> 
> .....



That is as it should be. The most comparable newer Husky is the 359, imo.....:biggrin:

*Edit*; RR, The chain brake was an _option_ back then, and no chain brake surely makes the saw lighter.....

The adjuster is under the clutch cover on that generation/family of saws, not really easy to find.


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## bama (Feb 13, 2011)

RiverRat2 said:


> Ive never owned a Jonsered,,,,,,, so I have no Idea of what a 6 series is?? much less where the oiler adjustment is. All I know is its a silver tag huskie 61 with a black top and a metal Chain brake handle and it runs really well????
> 
> Sorry,, I'm basically a Creamsicle guy,, Ive got a few huskies but dont know much about them,,,, Like on this saw whats the trick to getting the carb off without drilling a hole in the back of the crankcase??? cutting the short end of your 5mm allen off?? I hate destroying tools... That botttom screw is a pita


 
Sorry about that RiverRat. I meant the 625, 630, 670 series of saws. The oiler is a separate unit that contains the RH crank seal and attaches under the clutch. The adjustment should be on this piece and sits to the left of the crankshaft if you are looking at the clutch.

About the carb....If the screw is too hard to reach with the t-handle, then I just use the short side of a standard allen wrench. Once its loose, then I can work the angle to get the t-handle in.


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## Roanoker494 (Feb 13, 2011)

I do not have a 61 but I do have a early 162SE with a 266xp top end, which is the same basic saw as the 61. If you want to really fire that 61 up you need to find yourself a 50mm closed port 266xp top end for it, it will also benefit from the larger 266 carb also. I believe you can swap on the 52mm 272xp top end also but you will have to change out the entire intake system as well.


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## weimedog (Feb 13, 2011)

Roanoker494 said:


> I believe you can swap on the 52mm 272xp top end also but you will have to change out the entire intake system as well.



Go back and take a good look at my picture....:msp_tongue:


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## weimedog (Feb 13, 2011)

Couple of other little tidbits that might be of interest to those who like that chassis:






Wanted the "low top" cover look...so the two intake scheme's that I had to work with were the stock 61 (Aluminum) and a 268. The 272 wouldn't fit under the cover. Stuck with the aluminum becasue with a little die grinder help it had a larger x-sectional area and straighter flow. (Not showing the filter & cover mod which would make all this much clearer) Didn't loose anything relative to a 272 intake.











There is a thread out there on what i did. The pics pretty much tell the story. Simple stuff but a lot of fun. I have a really nice 61 intake manifold, carb, cylinder & piston if some one needs one!


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## SawTroll (Feb 13, 2011)

Roanoker494 said:


> I do not have a 61 but I do have a early 162SE with a 266xp top end, which is the same basic saw as the 61. If you want to really fire that 61 up you need to find yourself a 50mm closed port 266xp top end for it, it will also benefit from the larger 266 carb also. I believe you can swap on the 52mm 272xp top end also but you will have to change out the entire intake system as well.



Yes, but the early (about pre 1985) 266 doesn't have the larger carb. Those have the same carb as the 61.


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## Roanoker494 (Feb 13, 2011)

weimedog said:


> Go back and take a good look at my picture....:msp_tongue:


 
Well the decomp button on a white top 61 should have been a tip off that something larger may have been there.


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## Roanoker494 (Feb 13, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> Yes, but the early (about pre 1985) 266 doesn't have the larger carb. Those have the same carb as the 61.


 
Actually, I believe you are the person who was telling me about the carbs in the thread about my saw. Now that I think about it I do remember you saying something about a mid 80's change over. I still have the smaller HS163 carb on my 266 top end and it seems to do just fine for me.


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## weimedog (Feb 13, 2011)

Roanoker494 said:


> Actually, I believe you are the person who was telling me about the carbs in the thread about my saw. Now that I think about it I do remember you saying something about a mid 80's change over. I still have the smaller HS163 carb on my 266 top end and it seems to do just fine for me.



This one's carb has the body from the 272's but had to modify the aluminum "horn" to handle the 272's cap screws. I'd like the low top look and feel on those older ones. I think I remember your posting on the 266...is a 266 48 or 50mm? I have a closed port 268 top end waiting for a good piston & trash can 61 or later low top Husqvarna...:eek2: Maybe a old style J-red 630 bottom end will do the trick.

So Saw Troll..What model Husqvarna's had that low top cover? Any with the later style single coil Ignition?


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## Roanoker494 (Feb 13, 2011)

weimedog said:


> This one's carb has the body from the 272's but had to modify the aluminum "horn" to handle the 272's cap screws. I'd like the low top look and feel on those older ones. I think I remember your posting on the 266...is a 266 48 or 50mm? I have a closed port 268 top end waiting for a good piston & trash can 61 or later low top Husqvarna...:eek2: Maybe a old style J-red 630 bottom end will do the trick.
> 
> So Saw Troll..What model Husqvarna's had that low top cover? Any with the later style single coil Ignition?


 
266xp was a closed port 50mm, not sure on the SE models.


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## SawTroll (Feb 13, 2011)

I couple of post from a few months back;



spike60 said:


> OK, I did some research on this. My only goof up was that the 66's did use the early twin coil set up.
> 
> The IPL's show the model run from 87-91. They do use the same open port cylinder as on the non-XP 268's. There are a few different part numbers involved. Early 66 IPL's show #503448271, and the later IPL shows #503611071, which is the same as on the 268 IPL. Doesn't really matter, as all of them supercede up to the same number, 544222902.
> 
> ...


 


SawTroll said:


> I got curious, so I looked up a few IPLs, to find out which carbs were used on the different models in that "family" of saws.
> 
> The 66 was simple, it used the HS224A from 1987-1991.
> 
> ...


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## tantoy (Feb 13, 2011)

Just pictures


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## SawTroll (Feb 13, 2011)

Roanoker494 said:


> 266xp was a closed port 50mm, *not sure on the SE models.* .....



I am pretty sure they all were closed ports, but not 100%.

In fact I am not an expert on those saws at all, I just have "collected" a bit of info on them. :msp_smile:


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## bama (Feb 13, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> I am pretty sure they all were closed ports, but not 100%.
> 
> In fact I am not an expert on those saws at all, I just have "collected" a bit of info on them. :msp_smile:


 

Niko, your "collection" of information is fairly extensive and far surpasses anything I hope to achieve in my lifetime.:msp_biggrin:


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## andrethegiant70 (Feb 13, 2011)

tantoy said:


> Just pictures


 
I'd have called that one without the brake a 162... note the hold down screw in the middle of the top cover. The 61 has nothing on a 162, so no worries.


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## SawTroll (Feb 13, 2011)

andrethegiant70 said:


> I'd have called that one without the brake a 162... note the hold down screw in the middle of the top cover. The 61 has nothing on a 162, so no worries.


 

"Frankensaws" are common in that "family"......:msp_wink:


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## RiverRat2 (Feb 14, 2011)

*Well guess what I just found in the Husky section of the shop,,,*



SawTroll said:


> "Frankensaws" are common in that "family"......:msp_wink:



An old 272 that has a ton of compression (195 PSI) that need s a coil and a complete 266 with an extra jug/piston/intake/carb, & muffler

I may just wake that 61 up a bit!!!!! :msp_wink:


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## STIHL880 (Feb 14, 2011)

Okay, Fixed it, Here are some pictures of this beast, Got it started last night, the thing runs like a champ even after my buddy telling me it's had like 1000+ hours on it, and four owners, Still need to rebuild and clean it though. 

View attachment 172240
View attachment 172241
View attachment 172242
View attachment 172243


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## STIHL880 (Feb 14, 2011)

Well, Going to the chainsaw shop to buy a bar and chain tomorrow, can anyone tell me what size chain and bar i should use? i have no idea about husky's, 
Thanks again.


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## bama (Feb 14, 2011)

I run 3/8 .058 but that is because I had it on the first saws when I started running them. I also found some real nice "closeout" bars at Baileys because of the .058 gauge. For ease of use, I would use whatever gauge/pitch that you have and just try to find a bar that maybe has the same drivers as your other saws. I am not a Stihl guy, so maybe it doesn't work that way. All of my 16" chains can go on any saw I have as well as the 18", 20", 24" etc. I like it that way.


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## SawTroll (Feb 15, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> .....
> I tried to attach a WS manual from 1988, but the file is too large (over 20mb)....



I found a link to that manual. It still is a large file, so it may take some time to open.

61, 266, 66, 268 WS manual 1988

*Edit;* The oil adjuster can be seen from page 49 and on.


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## procarbine2k1 (Feb 15, 2011)

I liked the way mine handled with a 20" bar, full chisel. Worked well for me anyway...


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## SawTroll (Feb 16, 2011)

More on the oiler in this manual from 1982 (266se):

OM 266SE 1982.

The 1997 one shows the same, but I don't have that one in English.


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## MJC (Feb 9, 2019)

To resurrect an old thread . . . I've got a 61 that I'd like to convert from single piece clutch drum sprocket to a rim sprocket. 
(For the record, I've been running a 3/8 22" bar and it runs circles around my 550 xp with a 20" bar cutting oak and cherry. Dunno if that means my 550 needs help or if its even a fair comparison, but I'm happy with it.) Anyway, I've found that one clutch drum I found (Oregon Drum Rim Sprocket 26831) is not for "older" 61 models. Is mine "older"? It is a silver tag black top with a metal chain brake handle. Tag says "6334417 Electrolux Motor AB Sweden." So an '86 model. Is that "older" or does "older mean ones not made in Sweden? Any help would be appreciated.


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## bama (Feb 10, 2019)

MJC said:


> To resurrect an old thread . . . I've got a 61 that I'd like to convert from single piece clutch drum sprocket to a rim sprocket.
> (For the record, I've been running a 3/8 22" bar and it runs circles around my 550 xp with a 20" bar cutting oak and cherry. Dunno if that means my 550 needs help or if its even a fair comparison, but I'm happy with it.) Anyway, I've found that one clutch drum I found (Oregon Drum Rim Sprocket 26831) is not for "older" 61 models. Is mine "older"? It is a silver tag black top with a metal chain brake handle. Tag says "6334417 Electrolux Motor AB Sweden." So an '86 model. Is that "older" or does "older mean ones not made in Sweden? Any help would be appreciated.


It has been awhile since I worked on or used my 61, but I did convert it to a rim sprocket. Mine was a white top, so pretty old. I know you can get it, but sadly, I don't remember what the number was. Sorry


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## Ronie (Feb 10, 2019)

MJC said:


> To resurrect an old thread . . . I've got a 61 that I'd like to convert from single piece clutch drum sprocket to a rim sprocket.
> (For the record, I've been running a 3/8 22" bar and it runs circles around my 550 xp with a 20" bar cutting oak and cherry. Dunno if that means my 550 needs help or if its even a fair comparison, but I'm happy with it.) Anyway, I've found that one clutch drum I found (Oregon Drum Rim Sprocket 26831) is not for "older" 61 models. Is mine "older"? It is a silver tag black top with a metal chain brake handle. Tag says "6334417 Electrolux Motor AB Sweden." So an '86 model. Is that "older" or does "older mean ones not made in Sweden? Any help would be appreciated.


It looks like 80-02 all fit I think older means course threaded clutch and two piece ignition.


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## MJC (Mar 2, 2019)

Ronie said:


> It looks like 80-02 all fit I think older means course threaded clutch and two piece ignition.
> View attachment 714534



Fantastic, Ronie! Thank you! I'll get one and let you know how it goes.


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## MJC (Mar 3, 2019)

'been researching. As far as sprockets are concerned, a "late model" 61 is one with a s/n later than 0510572. The Oregon part number for the correct rim sprocket for the "late model" 61 is #26831. (Thank you, Grande Dog, in post entitled "Checking husky 61 serial #") This corresponds to the OEM #5037014-01, also a rim sprocket. Other saws with the same sprocket are the 266 (after 051000), 268 (after 051000), or 272 (after 051000).

Ronie, the screen shot you sent me is of the the one-piece type sprocket drum (not rim) #503650901 (listing says replaces part #501514001). This seems to go to the "early model," (tho I may live to eat my words once I get a sprocket and try it out.)

According to my research, anyone with an "Early" 61 (s/n before 0510572) 66, 162, 266 (before 0510000), 268 (before 0510000), or 272 (before 0510000) should look for OEM part #501-8316-01,#501-6741-01,#501-5140-01, or Oregon part #102469. The Oregon part is a rim type sprocket, but the Husqvarna numbers seem to be the one piece type, and, as stated above, #501-5140-01 has been replaced by #503650901 

All the information here I got from an Oregon Sprocket Guide which cross references OEM with Oregon with saw model backwards and forwards. It seems pretty comprehensive. See link below. https://www.outdoorking.com/pages/Oregon/Oregon sprocket reference.pdf


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## Cycledude (Mar 3, 2019)

I bought a brandnew 61 in about 1981 or 82, white top, it came with a 16 inch bar and when that wore out I put a 18 inch bar on it, the coils went out once and that was expensive but other than that it’s been a great saw. In my opinion 18” bar is about the max length because with any longer bar the saw would tip over when you set it down. It still runs great but those rubber anti vibration things are worn out so I mostly only use it as a backup saw. 3-4 years ago I bought a brandnew 562 XP so that’s my main saw these days.
Yes the Oiler is adjustable, shortly after putting on the longer bar on mine I had to adjust the Oiler to max because the chain didn’t get enough oil in the old position.


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## Northerner (Mar 4, 2019)

Cycledude said:


> I bought a brandnew 61 in about 1981 or 82, white top, it came with a 16 inch bar and when that wore out I put a 18 inch bar on it, the coils went out once and that was expensive but other than that it’s been a great saw. In my opinion 18” bar is about the max length because with any longer bar the saw would tip over when you set it down. It still runs great but those rubber anti vibration things are worn out so I mostly only use it as a backup saw. 3-4 years ago I bought a brandnew 562 XP so that’s my main saw these days.



Those AV’s are pretty pricey up here. Just ordered the front 2 for the older 61, 20 bucks a pop! (Fine thread ones)


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## MJC (Mar 9, 2019)

Ronie said:


> It looks like 80-02 all fit I think older means course threaded clutch and two piece ignition.
> View attachment 714534



x2 what you said about the threads. Looking around, the "late models" have fine thread M10 that the clutch goes on to, and the as the "older" clutches have a course UNC 1/2" Thread.


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## MJC (Mar 9, 2019)

MJC said:


> According to my research, anyone with an "Early" 61 (s/n before 0510572) 66, 162, 266 (before 0510000), 268 (before 0510000), or 272 (before 0510000) should look for OEM part #501-8316-01,#501-6741-01,#501-5140-01, or Oregon part #102469. The Oregon part is a rim type sprocket, but the Husqvarna numbers seem to be the one piece type, and, as stated above, #501-5140-01 has been replaced by #503650901



*Correction* OEM part #501-8316-01 is a rim sprocket. Part #501-5140-01, replaced by #503650901, is a spur sprocket.


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