# Super Split - Question about Bearing & Bumper



## Clarkbug (Feb 4, 2012)

Hey All.

Just picked up a used Super Split, which I have to admit is pretty slick to watch in action. 

Got a chance to clean it up some and look into the mechanicals today, and it turns out there are a few things that need some love. It just got a new belt, a new pinion, and some new flywheel bearings. But it turns out the roller on the end of the rack has a big flat spot on it, and the rubber bumpers are completely shot.

So is the roller on the end of the rack anything special? I only ask because the splitter has been "customized" previously, so I dont know how things are supposed to look. For instance, the piece on the rack thats shot is just a piece of 3/4" round stock with a hole in it. It this actually supposed to be a bearing? If it is, any reason I cant just order a couple from McMaster-Carr, or do I need the one direct from Super Split? Same deal with the rubber bumpers, not sure exactly how they are supposed to be attached, I just know mine are shot.

Anyone have any pics of how their Super Split looks that I can use for reference?


Much thanks!


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## 727sunset (Feb 4, 2012)

The roller under the rack is supposed to be a bearing and they are replaceable. If round stock has been substituted you may want to look into that.
I'll have to look into the rubber bumpers tonight and try for a picture. I'm guessing they too could be obtained from an industrial supplier.


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## Clarkbug (Feb 4, 2012)

Thanks sunset.

I think for the amount of money that a bearing costs, I would rather use that instead of round stock. Plus it doesnt look like it worked all that well, since there was a pretty good flat spot on it. McMaster sells some 3/4" diameter sealed bearings that are a little over 6 bucks each, so it seems like a pair of them would work just fine in there. I just dont know whats supposed to be there, so I figured I would ask.

If you can get a shot of what you have for bumpers, that would be awesome.


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## bass_on_tap (Feb 4, 2012)

That roller bearing is a spot you need to keep an eye on. Keep it lubed with WD40 and clean it and the rail often. I have an old putty knife attached to the splitter to clean the rail.


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## Clarkbug (Feb 4, 2012)

Thanks bass. 

i think that nasty grease and dirt are what killed the piece of round stock thats in there now.. It was pretty well crudded up on there. Pretty typical of the rest of the guts also. At least that meant that someone was greasing it, which is a good sign.....


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## 727sunset (Feb 5, 2012)

Clark, this should help.
The round rubber bumpers are about 1" diameter and 3/4" thick with probably a 1/4" thread for attaching.
The bearing you need is called a yoke roller. I crossed it to a Carter #YNB-24-S. As others have said it is essential that the I beam remain clean and free of debris or the rack will not return properly. 
And here's a pic of the bumpers...


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## Clarkbug (Feb 5, 2012)

Thanks sunset, thats exactly the info I was looking for! I had been thinking of getting two ball bearings and putting them side by side instead of a yoke roller, but Ill definitely check that out.

After checking McMaster, looks to me like a 6831K41 might be the guy (no idea how it crosses to the carter number you had posted previously, but it seems to fit the dimensions OK).

And the bumpers mine had were just big square blocks of rubber with bolts in them, so these bumpers look much more like the ticket. Looks like they cross to McMaster 8926T21. 

Ill let you know how it goes!


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## Clarkbug (Feb 5, 2012)

Did some hunting on eBay and found some NOS yoke rollers on the cheap. Much thanks for throwing out the part number and the terminology! I havent ever heard of that term before. Also a guy on there that sells made in the USA rubber bumpers, so a set of those is on the way. 

Thanks again for the assistance!


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## Beefie (Feb 5, 2012)

When you get it fixed , POST some Pics. Not everyone gets to buy a super splitter, nice job on the find.

Beefie


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## Clarkbug (Feb 5, 2012)

Beefie said:


> When you get it fixed , POST some Pics. Not everyone gets to buy a super splitter, nice job on the find.
> 
> Beefie



Can do!

Its an older model J that someone has welded some side wings onto in place of a product table. Has the factory ball hitch on it for towing. Just was talking about getting the wood supply together for the next year with my wife, and she asked about a splitter. Showed her the videos on the web, and she said to look for one. Next day one popped up on CL, and it followed me home. 

Ill get the bearing and bumpers on it, make sure things are hit with some WD-40 to help clean up the old grease thats crusted into it, and go to town with the putty knife.


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## 727sunset (Feb 5, 2012)

Nice score, and so quick!
...how about a picture, lol??
I'm interested in seeing the factory hitch as they no longer supply that.


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## buildmyown (Feb 5, 2012)

Interesting thats what those bumpers are supposed to look like good to know mine have been long gone all that is left are the parts welded to the beam. Also good to know about the bearings mine are trashed. If you ever need parts that you cant find elsewhere call Paul at SS great guy to deal with and he ships quick.


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## Clarkbug (Feb 10, 2012)

Just an update... Parts for the SS came in the mail today. Gonna try to get them put on tomorrow in the morning and fire the ol' girl up. Ill get some pics of her if things go well...


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## Clarkbug (Feb 11, 2012)

*Here she is!*

Got the new yoke roller on there this morning, works like a champ. Also used some bumpers I got off of eBay, they actually cross for a John Deere hood hold down or something of the sort. I had to re-tap one of the holes, but otherwise those went right in and worked pretty well.

I think Im gonna need to go through the carb at some point, or at least replace some of the springs, but other than that it worked great!

View attachment 223238


View attachment 223239


View attachment 223240


One other question/picture request. If anyone has one of these older style models, can you tell me how the shroud is supposed to be attached? Mine was making all sorts of noises and sounds like its rubbing on the flywheels. I need to come up with some way to get it on there and not rattle around like crazy. Any ideas?


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## MNGuns (Feb 11, 2012)

You need to make a production table for it if you really want to get the full efficiency of the machine. Great score, good info in this thread...


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## buildmyown (Feb 11, 2012)

Nice work and machine. I like those log wings nice and simple im going to steal that idea. I tend to over think and over build things. Yeah add a table it really helps. If I get a chance ill take some pics of how the shroud mounts but in the meantime mine bolts to the plate that is between the motor and flywheels and there are two little tabs that come off the beam that hold the bottom of the shround. Mine also just sits on there and has a hole worn in it from hitting the fly wheel. Is your shourd metal or fiber glass? Mine is Fiber glass.


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## buildmyown (Feb 11, 2012)

Here are a few pics of the mounts.
The rear upper mount you can see the screw at the top




The lower mount




and a quick and dirty out feed table really needs to be larger but it works ok


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## 727sunset (Feb 11, 2012)

Nice find there Clarkbug...that'll split your wood. 
Nice large face on the ram, and a very sturdy axle.
Does your clutch have room for a second belt? Mine runs 2 belts but maybe that's a newer design. 
Thanks for the pic of the trailer coupler, ideal location.
Sounds like your carb springs etc got banged around at some point and thus the reason for protection built around the engine? At least you'll always have a place to set your cool one.


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## Clarkbug (Feb 11, 2012)

Thanks for the replies and info all! 

I do know that I need some sorta table for it, but I think I may try the idea of a sheet of plywood on some rounds that are the same height as the splitter first, just as the cheap way out for now. Ill cover that in some plastic slip-sheet material so it doesnt rip up the ply and see how that goes.

My cover is fiberglass, and has two slots on the top side where it will hit those bolts, and then two of the tabs at the bottom also. But the cover only has one threaded stud for the bottom side, the other has been "customized". I just can hear it rubbing on one side, and I didnt know if there was a good way to stop that somewhow... 

The wings are a pretty neat idea, and they work well to keep things held on there without getting in the way. Worked on some big stuff I hoisted on there today. 

Next project for it (aside from splitting stuff) is to get the engine starting/running better. The springs for the throttle linkage are all sorts of messed up. I dont want to tear into it just yet, since its one of those "if it ain't broke" scenarios, but eventually Ill have to do it. Ill seafoam the gas in there first to see if that helps clean out the carb without me tearing it up.


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## Clarkbug (Feb 11, 2012)

727sunset said:


> Nice find there Clarkburg...that'll split your wood.
> Nice large face on the ram, and a very sturdy axle.
> Does your clutch have room for a second belt? Mine runs 2 belts but maybe that's a newer design.
> Thanks for the pic of the trailer coupler, ideal location.
> Sounds like your carb springs etc got banged around at some point and thus the reason for protection built around the engine? At least you'll always have a place to set your cool one.



No room on the clutch for another belt, at least I dont think so. 

Im thinking I need to rig up a ball coupler for the back of my WheelHorse so that I can tow it out to my pile and back, or out into the back forty to just process stuff out in the weeds. But thats a topic for another time I suppose....

That little thing around the engine I think was so that if the guy left it outside, it wouldnt get wet. I couldnt tell ya to be honest, since I dont see what else it could do, but at least there is a nice hinge on it, and a hold-down spring. So maybe the previous owner(s) just knew it would live out by the wood pile. 

Is there supposed to be any sort of plate on the underside of the ram? I have the small cam roller on the back, and on the underside of the "I" there is one large roller on each side. Looks like there are holes to add another on each side of the ram if you wanted to (maybe thats what comes on the HD model?) But I dont see anything else under there, so Im wondering if that cam roller and the spring behind the ram hold it up off the beam enough?

EDIT: In case anyone else wants to get some rubber bumpers, here is what I got, and they seem to fit just right. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOOD-SUPPOR...655?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5d953caf


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## Cmccul8146 (Feb 11, 2012)

buildmyown said:


> Here are a few pics of the mounts.
> The rear upper mount you can see the screw at the top
> 
> 
> ...



Your clutch is on backwards!! No way it can slip.


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## 727sunset (Feb 12, 2012)

Clarkbug said:


> Is there supposed to be any sort of plate on the underside of the ram? I have the small cam roller on the back, and on the underside of the "I" there is one large roller on each side. Looks like there are holes to add another on each side of the ram if you wanted to (maybe thats what comes on the HD model?) But I dont see anything else under there, so Im wondering if that cam roller and the spring behind the ram hold it up off the beam enough?



Here's some pics to compare with. My understanding is the HD model comes with 4 rollers on the underside, J model with 2.

From the top:









From underneath:








And the spring/roller:


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## Clarkbug (Feb 12, 2012)

Thanks again for the great pics Sunset.

It looks like you have a brass plate between the face of the ram and the cart that rides on the beam. I dont think I have one of those on mine, Ill have to check... Not sure if its necessarily needed, so might be time for me to give Paul a call....


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## buildmyown (Feb 12, 2012)

Cmccul8146 said:


> Your clutch is on backwards!! No way it can slip.



Not to hijack the op but care to explain a little? That is the way the original was on so when that one blew up I just put the new one on the same way. Who knows maybe someone somewhere put it back on wrong.


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## Hddnis (Feb 12, 2012)

Cmccul8146 said:


> Your clutch is on backwards!! No way it can slip.






He must run Husky saws. Guys who run Huskies think the clutch goes that way.:msp_biggrin:




Mr. HE


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## buildmyown (Feb 12, 2012)

Hddnis said:


> He must run Husky saws. Guys who run Huskies think the clutch goes that way.:msp_biggrin:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



As one who can take a good ball busting I really would like an explanation as to why. When I put that on I put the pulley and drum on first then the clutch itself. The pulley and drum spins free around the clutch the clutch is tight against the crank shaft. Without a load on the motor or when starting it the pulley and drums spin free once the motor is running the clutch engages.


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## sunfish (Feb 12, 2012)

MNGuns said:


> You need to make a *production table* for it if you really want to get the full efficiency of the machine. Great score, good info in this thread...



Yes, the table is a back saver. Can easily process a large round without a piece hitting the ground.


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## sunfish (Feb 12, 2012)

Hddnis said:


> He must run Husky saws. Guys who run Huskies think the clutch goes that way.:msp_biggrin:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



The clutch is right...... As it is on Husky saws. :msp_wink:


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## Hddnis (Feb 12, 2012)

buildmyown said:


> As one who can take a good ball busting I really would like an explanation as to why. When I put that on I put the pulley and drum on first then the clutch itself. The pulley and drum spins free around the clutch the clutch is tight against the crank shaft. Without a load on the motor or when starting it the pulley and drums spin free once the motor is running the clutch engages.






I don't know it to be wrong. Just getting a jab in at Husky chainsaw guys since most of those have an outboard clutch. My post should be taken as humor and not as mechanical advice.




Mr. HE


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## Hddnis (Feb 12, 2012)

sunfish said:


> The clutch is right...... As it is on Husky saws. :msp_wink:






I've seen it both ways on Super Splitters. Do you know if it changes from model to model or year made or??? Maybe I've just seen where otherd put it on wrong? My understanding is that most of those go-cart type clutches are bi-directional rotation. I can see where mounting it clutch pack out would help it run a little cooler.





Mr. HE


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## buildmyown (Feb 12, 2012)

Hddnis said:


> I don't know it to be wrong. Just getting a jab in at Husky chainsaw guys since most of those have an outboard clutch. My post should be taken as humor and not as mechanical advice.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Ok fair enough i just wasnt sure because this machine has been changed and cobbled together over the years.


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## sunfish (Feb 12, 2012)

Hddnis said:


> I've seen it both ways on Super Splitters. Do you know if it changes from model to model or year made or??? Maybe I've just seen where otherd put it on wrong? My understanding is that most of those go-cart type clutches are bi-directional rotation. I can see where mounting it clutch pack out would help it run a little cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I believe the clutch can go on either way. Mine is like the one in the picture.


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## sunfish (Feb 13, 2012)

sunfish said:


> The clutch is right...... As it is on Husky saws. :msp_wink:



Just looked at mine and it's backwards, just like on Stihl saws. 

It can go either way, but will move the belt tracking a bit.


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## Clarkbug (Mar 6, 2012)

Well, finally had a chance to test out the new-to-me super split this past weekend. Got through about six cords of hardwood, mostly black birch and maple. I have to say, its a nice machine. It wore two of us out, and my father swore that he was cutting it off the log pile just as quickly as we were splitting it up. 

So my thoughts:


Log wings work pretty darn well. They were hand-fabbed by someone, and they do a really nice job of helping center the bigger rounds.
The production table would be handy, but I am cheap. I took a piece of plywood that I had handy, cut a big slot in it, and ran it right up to those wings. It went over the trailer hitch, and supported on some milk crates it made a great table. Doesnt look any worse for wear either. Plus since it was a free find for me (along with some pallets) I like the price a lot.
Seafoam has helped out my engine woes, but it still needs a governor spring rebuild. After my pile is split Ill tear things down some and fix it up.
My push plate on the end of the ram did not survive the splitting marathon. It was a pretty lousy weld on there, and definitely looked "customized". So we finished splitting with just the ram, but I think that Ill go visit my local welder to get it put back on. Does anyone have any ideas of how to attach it without welding? I was thinking I could try jb weld, but that probably wouldnt take the abuse very well.
After about 4 cords I heard a strange rattle, and realized that the bolts that hold the little cart onto the end of the rack were coming loose. Not good. Tightened things up, and it seemed OK, but then I could feel the rack grab the pinion a little harder than it had before. No idea how that would have changed things, but it did.
Im going to add the other two bearings to the cart at the end of the rack. I pulled off one side, and the bearing is CYR-1 1/4" for anyone who is curious. eBay has once again provided some NOS versions, so Ill bolt them up this weekend and see if that makes any difference at all.
Fuel usage is awesome. Maybe two or three tanks to split all of the wood, and its got that tiny little tank on it. Very happy about that with the price of fuel.
I was leery of the crotches and nasty pieces, but I only ever had to hit a few pieces multiple times. The only problem piece was one that didnt have nice square ends on it, but once the saw made some flats, I had much better luck. 

In general, very happy with the purchase. A thanks to everyone here who helped with photos and part numbers to help me nurse the old gal back into fighting shape!


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## 727sunset (Mar 6, 2012)

Job well done getting it back in service and nice to know your efforts paid off.


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## Clarkbug (Mar 10, 2012)

*Should have left it alone....*

Well, I may have gone and broke it.

Not for good, but enough that I wont split this weekend.

At the end of last weekend, I noticed that the ram would make a strange noise when it was retracting. Looked closer, and it was the lock washers on one of the big bolts on the top. They had loosened up. I tightened up those two on the top, and also the six smaller ones that hold the ram to the little cart that rides on the beam. After that it felt different when it engaged, but I didnt think much of it, since it still worked just fine.

Fast forward to today. I ordered two more bearings for the little cart, since if two are good, four must be better, right? The model I have had the two bearings on the underside, and the springs connected to those bolts at the front of the ram. I moved those bolts and bearings to the back holes, and put two new bearings up in the front. Seems simple, right?

The problem is that now the cart doesnt want to move if I tighten up the six bolts that are along the sides of the ram. I think there are some clearance issues caused by years of wear. If I loosen the bolts up some, it will slide, but I also hear the rack gear hitting the pinion as it retracts. It sort of clunk-clunk-clunk-clunks as it retracts. Almost as if the back of the rack gear isnt elevated high enough to clear the pinion.

So have I gone and broken it? Should I just go with two bearings instead of the four and see if things work well again? Any thoughts from the longtime SS users here?


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## 727sunset (Mar 10, 2012)

How close do the new bearings compare with the old...same part #?


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## buildmyown (Mar 10, 2012)

Nope not broken you just found another worn part and a lesson on piviot points. By moving the springs to to the rear holes there is a slight downward pull and by putting the extra bearings on the cart it now cant piviot as much. Also the large spring that is between the ram and cart that is probally also worn out and doesnt have the tension left to hold the ram up when it retracts. My money says replace that spring and all will be good. Why do I say that because I jsut did the same thing not that long ago for the same reason. All I did was go to the local hardware store they have a large board with all the springs on it. I found one that was about the same diameter and thickness as the old spring. The new spring was about 4 inches long so I just cut it down till it was a little shorter then the old spring. I put the old sping inside the new spring it was a little stiff to engage at first but has now worn itself in. Of course you could always call Paul and get the right spring but i like stuff now and im lazy since I could drive to Paul in about 45 mins.


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## Clarkbug (Mar 10, 2012)

Thanks for the input and the tips! 

The bearings are the same part number, but a different manufacturer.

I was wondering if it was a spring thing, so thank you for confirming that for me! I probably should just give Paul a call anyway, to get a copy of the owners manual for this thing and see if I should replace anything else while I am at it. No sense in only doing things half way... My brass wear plate is there, but pretty worn down, so I might see how much he wants for one of those.... 

But your explanation makes perfect sense! I had thought that might be the cause, but wasnt sure if there was another spring somewhere that held the rack up off the pinion....


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## Clarkbug (Mar 12, 2012)

So I took a look at things today, and something finally clicked after I looked at sunset's photos of his ram/rack. It looks like there is a pivot point in the middle, where the cap screw goes through to connect the end of the ram to the little cart.

This way the cart rides square to the beam, and the rack can adjust its angle up and down depending on the position of the cam.

My model J doesnt have that pivot. The rack has two bolts vertically down into the little cart, and thats it. So I wonder if by me adding the two additional bearings, I have removed all opportunity for the entire assembly to pivot, and thats part of my issue.

Has anyone else ever just added the two extra bearings to their splitter without any other modifications? I tried to give Paul a call today, but we played phone tag instead.


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