# Compact or sub compact tractor?



## Mustang71 (Mar 16, 2018)

I keep hearing the financing deals on the radio and its got me looking at tractors again. I'm looking at the smaller side. 25 hp or so. I mainly want a 60 inch mower deck since the main use will be grass cutting. I also want the loader. Now I do believe the sub compact comes with a 4 foot bucket and the compact is a 5 foot bucket. I also would like to drag trees or partial trees out of the woods with it. I had an old ford and that was to large for yard work. I'm not sure how manly I would feel on a sub compact.


So is a sub compact tractor the same performance in a lawn tractor frame or just the little brother of the compact? The price is pretty close for both. The soonest I would be buying is fall time. I have a 5 acre wooded lot with about 3 acres of cutting.


----------



## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 16, 2018)

Get a ZTR for cutting grass and a tractor for tractor duties.

For the price of a tractor, a skid steer could be in that price range too. Just a thought.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 16, 2018)

The wife will never allow that. I'm looking at like 20 grand for everything I need. I looked at zero turns a while ago and unless you spend 5k or more it's a pile of crap no better than the box store rider I have now.


----------



## dave_dj1 (Mar 16, 2018)

I wouldn't go with a subcompact tractor, especially for the price of them, may as well get the bigger bang for your buck.
One thing about the Kubota's is they hold their value. I'm sure the other brands are similar, I only have experience with the Kubota. 
I know the financing is attractive on the new ones but if you shop around and get a 1-3 year old tractor with low hours you could save a few G's $$
a lot of people buy them then realize they really don't "need" a tractor or they get all their tractoring done on their 2 acres. It seems the ads are flooded with small tractors that are only a year or two old.


----------



## kodiak (Mar 16, 2018)

I have a Kubota BX2350. I would only consider taking it into the woods if there were improved trails to drive on. Soft underbelly and not much clearance. 

However, for mowing 2-3 acres, snow blowing and grading the 1,200’ driveway and light loader work, it cannot be beat.


----------



## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 16, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> The wife will never allow that. I'm looking at like 20 grand for everything I need. I looked at zero turns a while ago and unless you spend 5k or more it's a pile of crap no better than the box store rider I have now.



My ZTR is a home jobber unit (Cub Cadet RZT with a 50" or 52" deck. It's a 2007 I think, only thing I've done is normal maintenance.
I paid $1000 used for it, (was nearly new, had like 75hrs on it and stored in a heated garagw). At the time they were around $2500 new, I think colder to $3k now.

I had a tractor before that, the ZTR easily cut my mowing time in half. I sold the deck for the tractor and kept it as a snowblower only unit. No more taking several hours to swap between the blower and mower.

The thing with a tractor small enough to have a 60" deck is that it and the FEL will be fairly light duty. Fine for small yard projects, but skidding logs through the woods or lifting them isn't going to work well.

For a mini log skidder, a 4wd ATV would work better that a small yard tractor.

ATV and a ZTR would be well under 20k and you'd have the ATV to ride, plow snow, pull around a trailer (or the ZTR can too).

Just my thoughts.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 16, 2018)

kodiak said:


> I have a Kubota BX2350. I would only consider taking it into the woods if there were improved trails to drive on. Soft underbelly and not much clearance.
> 
> However, for mowing 2-3 acres, snow blowing and grading the 1,200’ driveway and light loader work, it cannot be beat.



I'm talking about tractor in the yard next to the woods dragging logs out nothing crazy. I have a 600 foot gravel driveway and that's the main reason for the loader. I have holes everywhere. I could stone them every year and they come back. It's a lot for the wheel barrow to handle.




ValleyFirewood said:


> My ZTR is a home jobber unit (Cub Cadet RZT with a 50" or 52" deck. It's a 2007 I think, only thing I've done is normal maintenance.
> I paid $1000 used for it, (was nearly new, had like 75hrs on it and stored in a heated garagw). At the time they were around $2500 new, I think colder to $3k now.
> 
> I had a tractor before that, the ZTR easily cut my mowing time in half. I sold the deck for the tractor and kept it as a snowblower only unit. No more taking several hours to swap between the blower and mower.
> ...



I have an atv and use it for fire wood and plowing and a plow for the truck. I'm fine with a loader that has a 1000lb capacity. I am just a home owner who burns wood for supplemental heat. That would be more than enough for my needs. I had a tractor with a loader and miss it but those old 2wd ford tractors were not that great so I sold it.


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 16, 2018)

This IS one time, when bigger IS better!! SO, don't get the sub...

SR


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 16, 2018)

I never wanted a sub compact tractor but since I've been looking again I figured I'd ask since I have never asked before. My BIL has the top of the line john deere sub tractor with all the impliments and it makes me laugh lol. I thought maybe there was a reason that the Kubota compact is only 3 grand more than the sub. Maybe the sub is that awesome and worth the price. Or maybe it's just the ladies model. Ladies like cute expensive things.


----------



## bear1998 (Mar 16, 2018)

To each there own......I have a Kioti CS2210...perfect for the needs I have for it.
I have a FEL and a 50" snow blower as far as attachments.
We bought are home this past may n so far I have moved about 55 tons of 2B stone around the property....didn't get enough snow this year to use the blower yet.
From what I here.....Kubotas hold there value better but comparing both Kioti n Kubota....I saved about 3000.00 n have no regret doing it.
Didn't get a mower deck for it (are yard is not that big) so for 400.00 more than what the deck would have cost we bought a Simplicity. Its nice not having to be concerned with draggin around a mower deck when driving in certain areas with the Kioti.
Check them out if you have a dealer close by. They offer 0% financing like Kubota does.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 16, 2018)

bear1998 said:


> To each there own......I have a Kioti CS2210...perfect for the needs I have for it.
> I have a FEL and a 50" snow blower as far as attachments.
> We bought are home this past may n so far I have moved about 55 tons of 2B stone around the property....didn't get enough snow this year to use the blower yet.
> From what I here.....Kubotas hold there value better but comparing both Kioti n Kubota....I saved about 3000.00 n have no regret doing it.
> ...



I'm open to all brands. I don't care about the resale value because I don't plan on selling it. Id like the best bang for the buck. I noticed mahindra was more expensive than Kubota and John Deere are close in price. There's a Ls dealer near me and I will check those out.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 16, 2018)

I just want to make sure the compact tractor with a 23 or 25 hp engine isn't like a full size truck with a v6.


----------



## sirbuildalot (Mar 16, 2018)

I'd look at the Kioti CK series. The 2510 could be had for your price and they offer a drive over 5' deck.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 16, 2018)

I priced out the Kubota b2301 online and it was about 20k the bx2380 was 17k. But more power is better. I unfortunately do not have the cash to buy one without financing. So I'm looking for new and the most cost effective tractor since I'll be paying for it for a few years.


----------



## bear1998 (Mar 16, 2018)

Check out Branson ....don't know if you have dealer close.....nice price....don't look bad....


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 16, 2018)

Hmm don't think so. I have the main 2 and new holland, case, kioti dealer along with a Ls dealer and a mahindra dealer.


----------



## Deleted member 117362 (Mar 16, 2018)

New Holland an LS small tractors look the same to me. My 2004 NH is a Japanese tractor. Now Korean made.


----------



## rarefish383 (Mar 16, 2018)

My BIL has a BX with front end loader and 54" deck. I was surprised how much I liked it for mowing and mulch. It did a fine job. I would go to a B if it was in the budget. I was thinking about a B or BX but I'm limited to a 54" deck because my dump trailer is only 62 inches wide and a 60 inch deck won't fit. I have plenty of use for a smaller tractor, but I also have a Massey 135 for heavier work. I looked and I thought the B2301 was 22 HP and the BX 2380 was 23HP, so the smaller one had more power. But, I may have goofed that up. I also believe you can't have too may tractors, I'm looking at a JD 2510 diesel, it's a sweet mid size tractor, they just tend to be a little pricey.


----------



## bear1998 (Mar 16, 2018)

The thing about compact or sub compact ... reguardless of horsepower...you will break traction before loosing considerable power


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 16, 2018)

Duce said:


> New Holland an LS small tractors look the same to me. My 2004 NH is a Japanese tractor. Now Korean made.



Ls tractors used to be new holland tractors. Now they are on their own. Kind of like those 80s ford tractors were Japanese. Ls is Korean which worries me a bit but maybe it's not a pile of crap like the Kia.

Ford and new holland have been just a name since the 80s that's y I'm not real impressed with them even though I am a ford guy.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 16, 2018)

bear1998 said:


> The thing about compact or sub compact ... reguardless of horsepower...you will break traction before loosing considerable power



My 50s ford would break traction before the bucket was full of stone. 4wd would be nice.


----------



## dmb2613 (Mar 16, 2018)

We sell Kubota, NH and Case, If you want something 60 HP and under get the Kubota, over 60 HP get the case or NH, the Deere's are good too in the 60HP and up class. Kubota's are the best small tractor going. Don't take my word for it go test drive them all. They are the best in compact tractors. John Deere, Case and NH does not hold a candle to them, and they have no interest for 60 months right now. the run this pro mo a lot. The resale Value is tip top too.
BUT go test drive them you will see for yourself


----------



## dmb2613 (Mar 16, 2018)

sirbuildalot said:


> I'd look at the Kioti CK series. The 2510 could be had for your price and they offer a drive over 5' deck.


 The drive over deck is not made heavy enough to drive over repeatedly, will be junk in a few years, Kubota has them too, I recommend not getting them.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 16, 2018)

dmb2613 said:


> The drive over deck is not made heavy enough to drive over repeatedly, will be junk in a few years, Kubota has them too, I recommend not getting them.



They all have them. Never sounded like a good idea to me but like I said I will mainly be mowing during the summer with the loader off. Most loader work would be fine with the deck on. I can't justify the expense of a tractor if I can't use it weekly. Yes I could really use a loader around here but I can get some 30 year old thing to use occasionally but I want a nice mower also. So far I'm leaning towards the Kubota over the john deere and new holland. I won't buy a mahindra either. The other couple I'm still thinking about. But in the end I'm not going to cheap out on a major investment.


----------



## thor97 (Mar 16, 2018)

I have a bx2360 and have had it for 6 years. It has been wonderful with absolutely no problems. It is a wonderful mowing tractor with incredible power. It is only 23 hp, but will mow anything, no problem. I have the 54" deck, as it fits my hilly place better. The 60" is also available on her. I don't take mine in the woods, but I have hauled thousands of rounds up to 32" diameter. I buy my wood by the logging truck load, cut it into rounds, and then haul them to my splitters (Eastonmade 12-22 and supersplit) . This year I will do approximately 300 face cords. I have thought many times about getting a b series, but this little girl is paid for and does the job. The bucket is only 4' wide, versus 5' wide on the b series, but the b has the exact same 23 hp engine. The b sits higher, and is a little bigger, but the bx is a true workhorse. I can run all day long at full throttle on 5 gallons of fuel. I load the bucket as full as I can get it, stacked over the top, and it lifts it, no problem. I use a backblade for ballast. I also plow a 300' driveway with the backblade and fel. Those drive over decks are a scam, as you still have to manually connect the pto shaft, and all pins and brackets. I bought mine with 0% interest and have no regrets. I could never do what I do without it. Whichever you get, you'll have no regrets.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 16, 2018)

thor97 said:


> I have a bx2360 and have had it for 6 years. It has been wonderful with absolutely no problems. It is a wonderful mowing tractor with incredible power. It is only 23 hp, but will mow anything, no problem. I have the 54" deck, as it fits my hilly place better. The 60" is also available on her. I don't take mine in the woods, but I have hauled thousands of rounds up to 32" diameter. I buy my wood by the logging truck load, cut it into rounds, and then haul them to my splitters (Eastonmade 12-22 and supersplit) . This year I will do approximately 300 face cords. I have thought many times about getting a b series, but this little girl is paid for and does the job. The bucket is only 4' wide, versus 5' wide on the b series, but the b has the exact same 23 hp engine. The b sits higher, and is a little bigger, but the bx is a true workhorse. I can run all day long at full throttle on 5 gallons of fuel. I load the bucket as full as I can get it, stacked over the top, and it lifts it, no problem. I use a backblade for ballast. I also plow a 300' driveway with the backblade and fel. Those drive over decks are a scam, as you still have to manually connect the pto shaft, and all pins and brackets. I bought mine with 0% interest and have no regrets. I could never do what I do without it. Whichever you get, you'll have no regrets.



That's what I want to hear but my issue is the price. If it were 8 grand cheaper for the bx I would seriously consider it. It's less than 3 grand and in payments over 60 to 84 months that's a few dollars a month.

I think either way of be happy but I want to spend the cash the most efficint way.


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 16, 2018)

There really isn't a large physical size difference between the BX and the B series tractors. But you do step up to higher capacities on the larger framed tractors. You get Cat 1 3 point rather than a cat 0. Option to get universal skid steer quick attach. More ground clearance.

The BX would do what you want to do, but if you're wanting to buy once, cry once, get the B. You have more property than I do with woods and I dont regret getting a B2650 over a smaller framed BX. Especially if you're going to use it for firewood duties. You will run out of tractor sooner with the BX...


----------



## Ryan'smilling (Mar 17, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> Ls tractors used to be new holland tractors. Now they are on their own. Kind of like those 80s ford tractors were Japanese. Ls is Korean which worries me a bit but maybe it's not a pile of crap like the Kia.
> 
> Ford and new holland have been just a name since the 80s that's y I'm not real impressed with them even though I am a ford guy.




Kinda. LS made and still does make tractors for NH. I don't know when they started selling tractors in the US under their own name, but it's not like they stopped making tractors for NH and launched their own brand. FWIW, I'd absolutely consider an LS, Kioti (they made the bobcat tractors), or TYM (made the Cabela's tractors). I own a Kubota and a Shibaura which says NH on it. Both Japanese tractors. I have good support for both at the same dealer. I could've gotten more tractor, or at least more features for less money with a Kioti, but the dealer was two hours away and didn't even call me with a quote after we drove there for a test drive.

Speaking of test drives, go sit on several machines. I'd wager that the choice will be a lot easier after doing so. I'd recommend a B if you're set on mowing with your tractor. An L2501 and a zero turn would be better, but it sounds like you've got your mind made up. If you can swing it, get the highest HP deluxe B they make. Maybe it's a B3030. It's not a huge deal, but the little bells and whistles are actually nice. My NH has all that stuff and you do miss it when you get on a basic model.


----------



## sirbuildalot (Mar 17, 2018)

CaseyForrest said:


> There really isn't a large physical size difference between the BX and the B series tractors. But you do step up to higher capacities on the larger framed tractors. You get Cat 1 3 point rather than a cat 0. Option to get universal skid steer quick attach. More ground clearance.
> 
> The BX would do what you want to do, but if you're wanting to buy once, cry once, get the B. You have more property than I do with woods and I dont regret getting a B2650 over a smaller framed BX. Especially if you're going to use it for firewood duties. You will run out of tractor sooner with the BX...


 There is a pretty significant size difference. Much larger tires. Heavier frame, longer, wider, taller. The BX's hitch is actually a limited cat 1. Not a category 0. I'm not aware of any current tractors that offer cat 0. A lot of old garden tractors used to have cat 0. I do agree he should be looking at bigger machines than a .BX


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 17, 2018)

Ryan'smilling said:


> Kinda. LS made and still does make tractors for NH. I don't know when they started selling tractors in the US under their own name, but it's not like they stopped making tractors for NH and launched their own brand. FWIW, I'd absolutely consider an LS, Kioti (they made the bobcat tractors), or TYM (made the Cabela's tractors). I own a Kubota and a Shibaura which says NH on it. Both Japanese tractors. I have good support for both at the same dealer. I could've gotten more tractor, or at least more features for less money with a Kioti, but the dealer was two hours away and didn't even call me with a quote after we drove there for a test drive.
> 
> Speaking of test drives, go sit on several machines. I'd wager that the choice will be a lot easier after doing so. I'd recommend a B if you're set on mowing with your tractor. An L2501 and a zero turn would be better, but it sounds like you've got your mind made up. If you can swing it, get the highest HP deluxe B they make. Maybe it's a B3030. It's not a huge deal, but the little bells and whistles are actually nice. My NH has all that stuff and you do miss it when you get on a basic model.



The Ls brand seemed like they were competing with John Deere because they built the same tractor. Same options but they do not charge you to change tires or for the larger mower deck. I have to do more research when the time gets closer and go try a few out.

I don't need a tractor bad enough to buy a tractor and a zero turn. The tractor would sit a lot. And used tractors always have issues unless you pay decent money.


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 17, 2018)

sirbuildalot said:


> There is a pretty significant size difference. Much larger tires. Heavier frame, longer, wider, taller. The BX's hitch is actually a limited cat 1. Not a category 0. I'm not aware of any current tractors that offer cat 0. A lot of old garden tractors used to have cat 0. I do agree he should be looking at bigger machines than a .BX


I, personally, wouldn't consider it significant when put into context of the increased ratings at the front and rear. Especially since either series can be had in roughly same HP ratings. 

Yes the frame is larger. Yes the tires are larger on the B compared to the BX. Obviously. My point was that in context of the increased ratings, the physical size overall is not that significant. JMO. Especially when you factor in the cost difference and the scope of the OP's property. 

Thanks for the correction on the 3 point. It still limits one to specific implements. With a standard cat 1, the availability is better and the opportunity to rent and borrow is going to be greater. The 3 point control on the B series is better as well. 

As mentioned the B series can be equipped with a standard quick attach. That opens up an entire world of possibilities compared to the BX. 

I'm not bashing the BX. They're solid machines and kinda neat. I wouldn't look at the two side by side and say that the B is that much larger compared to the BX, overall. And in referring to physical presence, not specs. 

sent from a field


----------



## Deleted member 117362 (Mar 17, 2018)

Whatever you choose, test drive it


Ryan'smilling said:


> Speaking of test drives, go sit on several machines. I'd wager that the choice will be a lot easier after doing so


Yes Sir. I have driven 5 different Kubota compact loader tractors and feel cramped to me.


----------



## bowtechmadman (Mar 17, 2018)

I agree I'd go sit on a few see what you feel is comfortable. I would go with Compact but I don't mow with mine. I have an L series and I could see it being difficult to mow with (especially with loader on) due to size. 
With that being said I had inherited a sub compact (can't remember brand) and it quickly was sold b/c it was so small to sit on and try to operate the loader etc... after being accustomed to a compact tractor.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 17, 2018)

bowtechmadman said:


> I agree I'd go sit on a few see what you feel is comfortable. I would go with Compact but I don't mow with mine. I have an L series and I could see it being difficult to mow with (especially with loader on) due to size.
> With that being said I had inherited a sub compact (can't remember brand) and it quickly was sold b/c it was so small to sit on and try to operate the loader etc... after being accustomed to a compact tractor.



Quick detach loader is a must. I won't mow with it on and will most likely leave it off unless I need it. I see these people mowing with the loader all the way up in the air or still on the front and it looks ridiculous. Being a wooded lot with grass, I do have some trees to mow around and some narrow places so I don't need the added length when mowing. 

I had the full size ford so those sub compacts look like garden tractors with a little loader on the front. I'm sure they are a lot more than that but 17 grand for a bx2380 seems crazy.


----------



## c5rulz (Mar 17, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> I just want to make sure the compact tractor with a 23 or 25 hp engine isn't like a full size truck with a v6.




I would not get hung up on horsepower #'s. The weight of the machine is much more important for ability to do work and stability. All have plenty of power.


----------



## waross (Mar 17, 2018)

I run a small Arborist/tree service. Two years ago I looked at alternatives in order to easily handle larger trees. I ended up with a Kubota BX2670. I got a drive over mower deck for use at home. I got a land pride grapple along with the regular bucket and a ballast box. All under $20k brand new. We routinely use it on bigger trees tp handle larger logs. The FEL is rated at 600lbs, but I have handled 800lb white oak logs with no worries. The drive over deck is anything but junk. I can have connected or disconnected in 90 seconds and it is heavy duty. I bought a quick connect for the FEL from mytractortools.com. I can switch from bucket to grapple and back in less than a minute. I can take the whole FEL off in about 60 seconds for mowing. I am.on a second set of front tires and bought higher rated ones. Still turf tires because we use the tractor on the job in upscale communities. I am able to cut clear logs longer to haul out and cut for lumber vs cutting shorter and usibg for firewood. I love my BX and would not trade it for a skidsteer & a zero turn. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


----------



## sb47 (Mar 17, 2018)

I have a Kabota B5200 sub compact tractor that I bought in 1985. I mow 4 acres with it plus disk my garden, push dirt with the box blabe. I don't have the FEL option because it's so small it would be useless. Though zero turn mowers are fast, i hate having to keep both hands on the handles to make'er go.
If you mow next to or under limbs, you can't lift or push a limb out of your way and still drive at the same time.
Did I mention it's a 3 cylinder diesel! It holds 3 gallons of fuel and I can mow my 4 acre lot twice on that 3 gallons of fuel.
Mine has the 48'' belly mower so it floats and cuts perfectly level with the ground, Unlike a brush hog that doesn't float. 
33 years and still going strong.


----------



## sb47 (Mar 17, 2018)

c5rulz said:


> I would not get hung up on horsepower #'s. The weight of the machine is much more important for ability to do work and stability. All have plenty of power.



I run water in my tractor tires, it makes it heaver and it pushes and pulls better. It also stops flats. Well it doesn't stop them but if you get a nail hole it will take a week for it to go flat. Water can escape as fast as air. For you northern folk, just add some antifreeze to keep them from freezing.


----------



## byron2 (Mar 17, 2018)

I have a JD 1023E ...60" Mower Deck , FEL and rock rake .. Its good for what I do around here ,there is not a lot of ground clearance so you would need good trails to your wood ... I buy my wood cut and split these days and it comes in real handy moving it around .. The rake and FEL keep the driveway in good shape .. Its probably more than I need for my 3 acres .. But given my kids homes are close by it stays busy doinf the odd jobs needed around a home ...Its not something you can beat on , its a light duty tractor .. It works great for my needs no regrets ...

Just to add I wouldn't want any bigger tractor given my mowing conditions.. trees and things that I need to mow around..


----------



## sb47 (Mar 17, 2018)

dmb2613 said:


> The drive over deck is not made heavy enough to drive over repeatedly, will be junk in a few years, Kubota has them too, I recommend not getting them.



My B5200 does not have the drive over mower deck. You have to slide it under from the side. I rarely take it off. I only take it off in the winter when I don't mow


----------



## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 17, 2018)

sb47 said:


> Though zero turn mowers are fast, i hate having to keep both hands on the handles to make'er go.
> If you mow next to or under limbs, you can't lift or push a limb out of your way and still drive at the same time.
> .



If you have normal sized hands you can hold both controls with 1 hand. At least that's how I've done it on my mower, and the couple others I've run.

A ZTR will mow the best being that's what they are specifically built for.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 17, 2018)

byron2 said:


> I have a JD 1023E ...60" Mower Deck , FEL and rock rake .. Its good for what I do around here ,there is not a lot of ground clearance so you would need good trails to your wood ... I buy my wood cut and split these days and it comes in real handy moving it around .. The rake and FEL keep the driveway in good shape .. Its probably more than I need for my 3 acres .. But given my kids homes are close by it stays busy doinf the odd jobs needed around a home ...Its not something you can beat on , its a light duty tractor .. It works great for my needs no regrets ...
> 
> Just to add I wouldn't want any bigger tractor given my mowing conditions.. trees and things that I need to mow around..



The last part is the reason I'm not looking for any bigger than 25hp. I have a lot of open space but I have a lot of trees too. Most of them are no big deal to get around but some spots I may have to make some adjustments to get a 5 foot mower in. It takes me 3 hours to cut the grass now which is usually 2 nights after work. I'm hoping to do it in 2 hours.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 17, 2018)

sb47 said:


> I have a Kabota B5200 sub compact tractor that I bought in 1985. I mow 4 acres with it plus disk my garden, push dirt with the box blabe. I don't have the FEL option because it's so small it would be useless. Though zero turn mowers are fast, i hate having to keep both hands on the handles to make'er go.
> If you mow next to or under limbs, you can't lift or push a limb out of your way and still drive at the same time.
> Did I mention it's a 3 cylinder diesel! It holds 3 gallons of fuel and I can mow my 4 acre lot twice on that 3 gallons of fuel.
> Mine has the 48'' belly mower so it floats and cuts perfectly level with the ground, Unlike a brush hog that doesn't float.
> 33 years and still going strong.



I see a lot of those old tractors around. I can't do a zero turn I like to cut the grass and drink a beverage and sometimes have a cigar. It's my only time to myself in the summer. I don't want to be flying around and let go to have a sip and flip the thing or have to stop every time I need a drink.


----------



## sb47 (Mar 17, 2018)

3 cylinder diesel, with 3 point hitch, front and rear PTO, 48'' belly mower.
This little tractor is a work horse. It has everything a full sized tractor has, only smaller.
She's surprisingly heavy for a small tractor at 1056lbs.


----------



## hseII (Mar 17, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> The wife will never allow that. I'm looking at like 20 grand for everything I need. I looked at zero turns a while ago and unless you spend 5k or more it's a pile of crap no better than the box store rider I have now.



Buy the Biggest Kubota Package you think you can afford.

I predict You will start sending me Christmas Cards.


----------



## hseII (Mar 17, 2018)

Sawyer Rob said:


> This IS one time, when bigger IS better!! SO, don't get the sub...
> 
> SR



This!!


----------



## hseII (Mar 17, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> The last part is the reason I'm not looking for any bigger than 25hp. I have a lot of open space but I have a lot of trees too. Most of them are no big deal to get around but some spots I may have to make some adjustments to get a 5 foot mower in. It takes me 3 hours to cut the grass now which is usually 2 nights after work. I'm hoping to do it in 2 hours.



It sounds like a ZT is your best choice & then Buy a Used Tractor. 

You can run a ZT with 1 hand: the controls almost touch on ours.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 17, 2018)

hseII said:


> It sounds like a ZT is your best choice & then Buy a Used Tractor.
> 
> You can run a ZT with 1 hand: the controls almost touch on ours.



Not going to happen. When I was looking at them last year my wife said I would look like a tool on one and I'm not getting one. Lol


----------



## hseII (Mar 17, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> The last part is the reason I'm not looking for any bigger than 25hp. I have a lot of open space but I have a lot of trees too. Most of them are no big deal to get around but some spots I may have to make some adjustments to get a 5 foot mower in. It takes me 3 hours to cut the grass now which is usually 2 nights after work. I'm hoping to do it in 2 hours.





hseII said:


> It sounds like a ZT is your best choice & then Buy a Used Tractor.
> 
> You can run a ZT with 1 hand: the controls almost touch on ours.



On second thought, how big is the Area you mention that is tight?

Would you be better served with a large weedeater in those few places, & mow the other 99% of it with a larger Tractor & mower?, or is it a lot of ground to cover?

I would also consider a commercial self propelled walk behind & a new larger FEL with bushog.

The larger machines are just so handy.


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 17, 2018)

sb47 said:


> This little tractor is a work horse. It has everything a full sized tractor has, only smaller.


 Not everything, it doesn't have "draft" position on the 3 point for one thing...

SR


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 17, 2018)

hseII said:


> On second thought, how big is the Area you mention that is tight?
> 
> Would you be better served with a large weedeater in those few places, & mow the other 99% of it with a larger Tractor & mower?, or is it a lot of ground to cover?
> 
> ...



I have about 2 in a half acres of open grass. One area out by the road then the woods then another large area around my house. There's some small areas in between. Around the pond is tough but I want to clear out all the way around it but I don't have a tractor. I push mow around the house and swing set. I am willing to adjust my land scape to accommdate a tractor. I have a 46 inch deck now.


----------



## byron2 (Mar 17, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> The last part is the reason I'm not looking for any bigger than 25hp. I have a lot of open space but I have a lot of trees too. Most of them are no big deal to get around but some spots I may have to make some adjustments to get a 5 foot mower in. It takes me 3 hours to cut the grass now which is usually 2 nights after work. I'm hoping to do it in 2 hours.


It sounds like you are mowing about as much as I do roughly I do about 2 1/2 acres ... I also have a small jd lawn tractor with a 48" deck I've used for years before buying the 1023... there is a big time difference with the 1023 probably takes 1/2 as much time .. I did have to limb up some of the trees to get the 1023 in under them and that's with the roll bar down .. Some of the mowing where its tight I just jump on the small mower for ... good luck man

you might be able to get into the 1025 R model a step up from the 1023 still has the small tires but is suitable for the small back hoe which you could add at a later date... as I remember when I got the 1023 there was about a 3 thousand dollar difference ...


----------



## hseII (Mar 17, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> I have about 2 in a half acres of open grass. One area out by the road then the woods then another large area around my house. There's some small areas in between. Around the pond is tough but I want to clear out all the way around it but I don't have a tractor. I push mow around the house and swing set. I am willing to adjust my land scape to accommdate a tractor. I have a 46 inch deck now.



You could easily do you adjusting with a medium size Tractor & a FEL.

Just a quick search of the Used in my area: 

KUBOTA
https://athensga.craigslist.org/grd/d/kubota/6519280842.html

kubota L3901 tractor for sale
https://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/hvo/d/kubota-l3901-tractor-for-sale/6473025182.html


This would probably be my choice in your situation. 
2017 Kubota Tractor
https://atlanta.craigslist.org/eat/grd/d/2017-kubota-tractor/6494383034.html


----------



## hseII (Mar 17, 2018)

2 acres?

Maybe a smaller tractor is in your best interest.


----------



## sirbuildalot (Mar 17, 2018)

hseII said:


> 2 acres?
> 
> Maybe a smaller tractor is in your best interest.


 Just the area he mows is 2.5 acres, he said the whole thing was 5 acres


----------



## sirbuildalot (Mar 17, 2018)

I missed out on a nice Kubota B6200 right before I got my Ford 1700


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 17, 2018)

I mow around 3 acres. And I have 5 and a 600 foot gravel drive way that needs yearly maintenance.


----------



## hseII (Mar 17, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> I mow around 3 acres. And I have 5 and a 600 foot gravel drive way that needs yearly maintenance.



I guess my new question is, do you want that work to go quick, or do you want it to take forever?

I’m getting mixed signals here.


----------



## sb47 (Mar 17, 2018)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Not everything, it doesn't have "draft" position on the 3 point for one thing...
> 
> SR


Well not everyone is a beginner and needs it. It's useless in most cases. A good operator can make those adjustments with the up/down control. Besides, not all large tractors have that feature ether.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 17, 2018)

hseII said:


> I guess my new question is, do you want that work to go quick, or do you want it to take forever?
> 
> I’m getting mixed signals here.



My 46 inch mower takes a while. 60inch would be faster. The wheel barrow takes for ever fixing the driveway a loader would be faster. Where are the mixed signals I want a tractor lol.


----------



## sb47 (Mar 17, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> My 46 inch mower takes a while. 60inch would be faster. The wheel barrow takes for ever fixing the driveway a loader would be faster. Where are the mixed signals I want a tractor lol.


60'' takes more horse power then 48''. 48'' will get into places a 60'' wont. A simple box blade will work wonders on a gravel driveway.


----------



## byron2 (Mar 17, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> My 46 inch mower takes a while. 60inch would be faster. The wheel barrow takes for ever fixing the driveway a loader would be faster. Where are the mixed signals I want a tractor lol.


 I'm not trying to sell you on the deere ....My sons driveway is about the same as yours little longer maybe ... It got to the point that it needed some work last year.. So he got a load of gravel 8 or 10 yards "not real sure now " and another load of loam to repair some spots around the lawn ... anyway I took the tractor with the rock rake down and we went at it ... We probably worked 6 hours give or take fixing the driveway bad spots and raking them in plus putting the loam around and raking that out .. very little hand work ... I can't even imagine how long that would've taken with a shovel , rake and wheel barrel I do know he would've been on his own I'm to old for that stuff .. lol 

I boils down to how much money you want to spend and if the machine is going to do the things you need it to do . For my all around needs the 1023 is more than enough ...Any bigger I'm going to need two tractors one for the lawn one for the driveway ... Like others have said go look them over sit on them see what you like ... I heard an ad today "as low 99.00 a month zero interest" on this things... anyhow that's enough out of me good luck Mike


----------



## hseII (Mar 17, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> My 46 inch mower takes a while. 60inch would be faster. The wheel barrow takes for ever fixing the driveway a loader would be faster. Where are the mixed signals I want a tractor lol.



Well your wife said you couldn’t xxxx, so I wasn’t sure if you wanted to do things quickly, or spend all your time
on your current chores to keep from taking on additional chores. 

A L39/4701 Kubota package would make quick work of your current task, plus give you the power to do more facilitating for future cleanup.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 17, 2018)

byron2 said:


> I'm not trying to sell you on the deere ....My sons driveway is about the same as yours little longer maybe ... It got to the point that it needed some work last year.. So he got a load of gravel 8 or 10 yards "not real sure now " and another load of loam to repair some spots around the lawn ... anyway I took the tractor with the rock rake down and we went at it ... We probably worked 6 hours give or take fixing the driveway bad spots and raking them in plus putting the loam around and raking that out .. very little hand work ... I can't even imagine how long that would've taken with a shovel , rake and wheel barrel I do know he would've been on his own I'm to old for that stuff .. lol
> 
> I boils down to how much money you want to spend and if the machine is going to do the things you need it to do . For my all around needs the 1023 is more than enough ...Any bigger I'm going to need two tractors one for the lawn one for the driveway ... Like others have said go look them over sit on them see what you like ... I heard an ad today "as low 99.00 a month zero interest" on this things... anyhow that's enough out of me good luck Mike



The brand is not important I'm open to any brand at this point. The issue is the price. Why is a sub compact not much cheaper than a compact. That's my deciding factor. When spending 17k why not spend 20k and get the bigger one. Idk what the John Deere cost. I remember last summer at the county fare a 2023 was 199 a month and I'm assuming something down. What's the 1023 with the loader? 159 a month Idk. If it were 99 a month for the size tractor I want with a deck and a loader I would do it. There's always the fine print. I'm fine with a deere or Kubota but I want to make sure I'm not paying for a name. John Deere seems to be the most expensive.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 17, 2018)

hseII said:


> Well your wife said you couldn’t xxxx, so I wasn’t sure if you wanted to do things quickly, or spend all your time
> on your current chores to keep from taking on additional chores.
> 
> A L39/4701 Kubota package would make quick work of your current task, plus give you the power to do more facilitating for future cleanup.



I don't have the money for that size of a tractor though. I get it a bigger tractor will work a lot better but I work heating and cooling and the construction trades don't pay that well. Why do u think no one wants to do them anymore lol.


----------



## hseII (Mar 17, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> I don't have the money for that size of a tractor though. I get it a bigger tractor will work a lot better but I work heating and cooling and the construction trades don't pay that well. Why do u think no one wants to do them anymore lol.



Because they’ve been shunned by the High schools & society as a whole.

An Honest Living is unattractive to many young whippersnappers because many times there is Manuel Labor involved.


The links in my above quoted Post are in or near your posted Budget. 

I’ve never heard a Fellow say he wished he’d gotten less Tractor, but I’ve often heard of wishing he’d gotten more.


----------



## dmb2613 (Mar 17, 2018)

I will say again, please, test drive the John Deere and the Kubota BEFORE you buy. There is no comparison you will see


----------



## hseII (Mar 17, 2018)

hseII said:


> You could easily do you adjusting with a medium size Tractor & a FEL.
> 
> Just a quick search of the Used in my area:
> 
> ...



See


----------



## byron2 (Mar 17, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> The brand is not important I'm open to any brand at this point. The issue is the price. Why is a sub compact not much cheaper than a compact. That's my deciding factor. When spending 17k why not spend 20k and get the bigger one. Idk what the John Deere cost. I remember last summer at the county fare a 2023 was 199 a month and I'm assuming something down. What's the 1023 with the loader? 159 a month Idk. If it were 99 a month for the size tractor I want with a deck and a loader I would do it. There's always the fine print. I'm fine with a deere or Kubota but I want to make sure I'm not paying for a name. John Deere seems to be the most expensive.


 I think that's like before implements but I'm not sure Mike .. Mine was 17600 , with loader and mower no money down I pay 209.00 that includes JD insurance life of the loan ...


----------



## hseII (Mar 17, 2018)

dmb2613 said:


> I will say again, please, test drive the John Deere and the Kubota BEFORE you buy. There is no comparison you will see



No, there really isn’t.


----------



## crowbuster (Mar 17, 2018)

I wouldn't trade my grapple for love nor money hsell. How bout you ?


----------



## hseII (Mar 17, 2018)

crowbuster said:


> I wouldn't trade my grapple for love nor money hsell. How bout you ?



If I Traded it, it would be towards another!


----------



## rarefish383 (Mar 18, 2018)

I priced a BX last year with a loader, 54" deck and a grass catcher and I think it was 16,300. I wouldn't really want a bigger tractor for mostly mowing and mulching. Maybe it's a niche thing. If I get it I'll sell my 52" Snapper pro walk behind. I'll loose a little in the tight work area, but not much. I'd need it more for mowing. The loader worked great for loading my dump trailer when my BIL cleared his building lot. It will hold all the gravel or topsoil you can put in it, but it won't dig. With the loader and mower on it will drive right up the ramp on my trailer. My 5X8 dump has side boards that measure a load of fire wood at exactly 1 cord. If I go bigger tractor I need a bigger trailer. If I go bigger trailer I need a bigger truck. The BX makes a package that works perfect with my Ram 1500.


----------



## hseII (Mar 18, 2018)

rarefish383 said:


> I priced a BX last year with a loader, 54" deck and a grass catcher and I think it was 16,300. I wouldn't really want a bigger tractor for mostly mowing and mulching. Maybe it's a niche thing. If I get it I'll sell my 52" Snapper pro walk behind. I'll loose a little in the tight work area, but not much. I'd need it more for mowing. The loader worked great for loading my dump trailer when my BIL cleared his building lot. It will hold all the gravel or topsoil you can put in it, but it won't dig. With the loader and mower on it will drive right up the ramp on my trailer. My 5X8 dump has side boards that measure a load of fire wood at exactly 1 cord. If I go bigger tractor I need a bigger trailer. If I go bigger trailer I need a bigger truck. The BX makes a package that works perfect with my Ram 1500.



All Solid Points.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 18, 2018)

rarefish383 said:


> I priced a BX last year with a loader, 54" deck and a grass catcher and I think it was 16,300. I wouldn't really want a bigger tractor for mostly mowing and mulching. Maybe it's a niche thing. If I get it I'll sell my 52" Snapper pro walk behind. I'll loose a little in the tight work area, but not much. I'd need it more for mowing. The loader worked great for loading my dump trailer when my BIL cleared his building lot. It will hold all the gravel or topsoil you can put in it, but it won't dig. With the loader and mower on it will drive right up the ramp on my trailer. My 5X8 dump has side boards that measure a load of fire wood at exactly 1 cord. If I go bigger tractor I need a bigger trailer. If I go bigger trailer I need a bigger truck. The BX makes a package that works perfect with my Ram 1500.



So why won't it dig? Like at all? I have some parts of the woods i want to clear and I'd like to scrape the top few inches.

I have no intention of trailering it anywhere unless i buy more land some day. In which case I would probably buy a dump trailer.

Mowing will be my main use and other house hold chores and driveway stone.


----------



## Deleted member 117362 (Mar 18, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> So why won't it dig? Like at all? I have some parts of the woods i want to clear and I'd like to scrape the top few inches.
> 
> I have no intention of trailering it anywhere unless i buy more land some day. In which case I would probably buy a dump trailer.
> 
> Mowing will be my main use and other house hold chores and driveway stone.


That takes weight, power and down pressure.


----------



## Deleted member 117362 (Mar 18, 2018)

hseII said:


> No, there really isn’t.


Very Nice setup! Neighbor has an L5740, loader, forks, backhoe and snow bucket. I am the little guy on block TC33D, loader, bucket forks and back blade. Best thing I did was let him use mine, before he purchased his. Now, I get to borrow his!


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 18, 2018)

Duce said:


> That takes weight, power and down pressure.



Those loaders don't have down pressure? I didn't they made loaders like that anymore.


----------



## hseII (Mar 18, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> So why won't it dig? Like at all? I have some parts of the woods i want to clear and I'd like to scrape the top few inches.
> 
> I have no intention of trailering it anywhere unless i buy more land some day. In which case I would probably buy a dump trailer.
> 
> Mowing will be my main use and other house hold chores and driveway stone.



You said $20,000 for a budget, right? 

kubota L3901 tractor for sale
https://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/hvo/d/kubota-l3901-tractor-for-sale/6473025182.html
This is close.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 18, 2018)

hseII said:


> You said $20,000 for a budget, right?
> 
> kubota L3901 tractor for sale
> https://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/hvo/d/kubota-l3901-tractor-for-sale/6473025182.html
> This is close.



It nice but I think over kill for me. I don't have the room for that. My old ford was to big. And I need financing.


----------



## Deleted member 117362 (Mar 18, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> Those loaders don't have down pressure? I didn't they made loaders like that anymore.


One you are looking at may have down pressure. My NH tc33d has down pressure (can lift front end off ground), weights 2600 lbs, add loader, HD bucket with replaceable blade, 560 lbs of juice in rear tires and back blade weight. 4WD and enough power to turn tires. I can dig and strip soil (live on a sand hill), but clearing my property of tree roots and any compacted heavy soil is a different job. Moving loose crushed concrete, topsoil, gravel and sand, not a problem. Happy hunting and enjoy whatever you purchase.


----------



## hseII (Mar 18, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> It nice but I think over kill for me. I don't have the room for that. My old ford was to big. And I need financing.



https://sneadtractor.com/our-inventory/

KUBOTA L3301DT #5
KUBOTA LOADER

What was your old Ford?


----------



## Deleted member 117362 (Mar 18, 2018)

hseII said:


> https://sneadtractor.com/our-inventory/
> 
> KUBOTA L3301DT #5
> KUBOTA LOADER
> ...


Now your talking. 8 or 12, I want a tiller. You're are doing his research.


----------



## hseII (Mar 18, 2018)

Duce said:


> Now your talking. 8 or 12, I want a tiller. You're are doing his research.



8 or 12?


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 18, 2018)

hseII said:


> https://sneadtractor.com/our-inventory/
> 
> KUBOTA L3301DT #5
> KUBOTA LOADER
> ...



I had a ford 850 with power steering and a loader. Starting could be tough and traction was an issue but it had power. I didn't use it much and needed cash so I sold it. It was to big to move around all the trees.


----------



## hseII (Mar 18, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> I had a ford 850 with power steering and a loader. Starting could be tough and traction was an issue but it had power. I didn't use it much and needed cash so I sold it. It was to big to move around all the trees.



Comparing a 1957 Ford 850 to a new 30ish hp compact tractor is like comparing a McCulloch 35 to a Stihl MS362 or a Husky 562. 

You’ve been given multiple great opinions.

Go Forth & Make a Decision.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 18, 2018)

We have an 80 something ford at work with the 2 cyl diesel and it' about 17 hp and after using that I decided 23 or 25 hp is enough for me. I need down pressure on a loader I'll most likely get a compact because if I don't I'll be kicking my self.


----------



## Deleted member 117362 (Mar 18, 2018)

hseII said:


> 8 or 12?


#8 L3301HST,loader,brushhog,tiller and trailer. #12 L2501HST, loader,brushhog,tiller and trailer.


----------



## hseII (Mar 18, 2018)

Duce said:


> #8 L3301HST,loader,brushhog,tiller and trailer. #12 L2501HST, loader,brushhog,tiller and trailer.



I believe those are the same physical size- why buybthe smaller one with less hp?


----------



## Deleted member 117362 (Mar 18, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> I had a ford 850 with power steering and a loader. Starting could be tough and traction was an issue but it had power. I didn't use it much and needed cash so I sold it. It was to big to move around all the trees.


Post a picture when it gets delivered. Always enjoy seeing new iron.


----------



## byron2 (Mar 18, 2018)

The 1023 has down pressure and float for back dragging and such ... It will dig but it depends on he ground .. hard pack or ground with a lot of roots would be pushing its limits ... Its suited for small projects its not really built for big ground breaking projects ... Its handy for me as its able to maintain whats already built I really wouldn't want to put it through to heavy ground work ... Like Duce say above "post81"although his machine is a bit bigger than the 1023


----------



## Deleted member 117362 (Mar 18, 2018)

hseII said:


> I believe those are the same physical size- why buybthe smaller one with less hp?


I agree, but sometimes it's all about money when you are borrowing the money.


----------



## hseII (Mar 18, 2018)

Duce said:


> I agree, but sometimes it's all about money when you are borrowing the money.



No disagreement, but there’s not much difference in price.


----------



## hseII (Mar 18, 2018)

Kubota was running a 72 month 0% interest deal when I bought mine.

That’s hard to argue with.


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 18, 2018)

It REALLY isn't 0 interest! The interest is added into the purchase price!

I ALWAYS get them even lower by offering to pay cash, and I mean a pretty good discount over 0 interest, so don't be fooled by that.

SR


----------



## hseII (Mar 18, 2018)

Sawyer Rob said:


> It REALLY isn't 0 interest! The interest is added into the purchase price!
> 
> I ALWAYS get them even lower by offering to pay cash, and I mean a pretty good discount over 0 interest, so don't be fooled by that.
> 
> SR



You are right.

My point is, there is some room to work things & it’s easy to budget for opposed to buying an older Tractor & having constant issues.

You gonna pay to play either way: one must choose how they want to pay.


----------



## hseII (Mar 18, 2018)

I know nothing of these.

Tractor 4wd with trailor
https://southjersey.craigslist.org/hvo/d/tractor-4wd-with-trailor/6531680559.html


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 18, 2018)

hseII said:


> You are right.
> 
> My point is, there is some room to work things & it’s easy to budget for opposed to buying an older Tractor & having constant issues.
> 
> You gonna pay to play either way: one must choose how they want to pay.



You hit the nail on the head. I had old and it was always leaking and not starting and needing work done to it.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 18, 2018)

I'm still paying off the debt I owe for having a child and we have a week long vacation in June that I'm saving for. So either this fall or next spring I'd like to purchase a tractor.


----------



## hseII (Mar 18, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> You hit the nail on the head. I had old and it was always leaking and not starting and needing work done to it.



I grew up on a farm & I Understand the whys, but it seems like it is easier to set a budget & make a payment than to buy something you always have to work on.

These are different times.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 18, 2018)

hseII said:


> I grew up on a farm & I Understand the whys, but it seems like it is easier to set a budget & make a payment than to buy something you always have to work on.
> 
> These are different times.



It is I don't have the time to always be fixing it.


----------



## hseII (Mar 18, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> It is I don't have the time to always be fixing it.



If you can stomach it, buy as big a Tractor as you can afford, especially if you are planning to clear out some more area.


----------



## rarefish383 (Mar 18, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> So why won't it dig? Like at all? I have some parts of the woods i want to clear and I'd like to scrape the top few inches.
> 
> I have no intention of trailering it anywhere unless i buy more land some day. In which case I would probably buy a dump trailer.
> 
> ...


----------



## rarefish383 (Mar 18, 2018)

Sawyer Rob said:


> It REALLY isn't 0 interest! The interest is added into the purchase price!
> 
> I ALWAYS get them even lower by offering to pay cash, and I mean a pretty good discount over 0 interest, so don't be fooled by that.
> 
> SR


Rob, I absolutely agree that the 0 isn't really 0. I have a 40 plus horse tractor, so that's not an issue. The BX I priced was around $16,300, with the Kubota 0 financing coming to about 300 a month. I can do 300 a month without a sweat. But, I only have about $4000 cash. If I walked into my dealer and offered him $4000 cash for a $16,000 tractor, he's going to throw me out. I might offer $14,5000 cash and get it. I might offer $11,500 with $4000 down and get a better deal. But, if I only have $4000 cash, saying make a cash offer doesn't help the guy that doesn't have cash. I'm retired with a great pension, an even greater 401, I'm eligible for social this year and don't need it. My wife wanted a new Lexus RX 350. I offered 10% of sticker cash. The sales man came back with something half way in between. I said since you can change your offer, I'm changing mine. I'll give you 12% off sticker out the door, tags, title, tax every thing. Then I said tell your sales manager if he makes me another offer, my next offer will be lower. He came back and said they couldn't do it. I said if he gave me that deal my daughter would come back in a month and by an NX for the same deal. He said OK. A month later my daughter came back and the sales lady said there was absolutely no way she could discount the car that much. I pointed at the sales manager and said go ask him. The sales lady came back and said she had never seen him sell a car that cheap, sign here. Cash does talk. My problem, after buying the Lexus, and probably a wedding this year, I only have about $4,000 in my mad money pile, and convincing my wife I need another tractor,when I have two, plus a 52" walk behind, is harder than dealing with the car dealer. So, I understand the young guy that just doesn't have the cash to dicker with.


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 18, 2018)

I'm not sure I agree that interest is built into the purchase price of something if its financed. I understand people make cash deals... Shoot, I do it with my saw dealer all the time. I'm strictly cash with him because he gives me a better deal. But a cash deal benefits the seller immensely, which is why the deals are often better than financing. Paperwork add a fair bit of overhead to a business. Using a Credit Card *costs* a business money.....

When I purchased my B2650, I negotiated the price down and THEN offered my of JD 670 for trade. That reduced the price another $4000. IIRC, I walked out financing $18,xxx on a new 2650, loader, mid mount mower, SSQA, 60" bucket, industrial tires and pallet forks. After tax, that was a $26,000 deal and I only financed $18 something....


----------



## sirbuildalot (Mar 18, 2018)

Sawyer Rob is correct, the 0 percent financing is a gimmick. Don't believe him ask the salesman the total amount financed and then the total amount financed without the 0 percent.


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 18, 2018)

That doesn't make sense.... In order to not apply the 0%, there would have to be a rate applied, so obviously the amount financed would go up.

Is there a general consensus that the MSRP price of anything currently for sale anywhere on the planet has some ambiguous interest rate built into the price?

I'm not disputing the claim.... It could be true... But show me the numbers.....


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 18, 2018)

I would think when they say 20 percent down and 99 a month then yes the interest is built in. You want a loader ok 129 a month. It's all prices that sound good.


----------



## sirbuildalot (Mar 18, 2018)

If you choose the 0 percent route the price of the tractor before financing is calculated goes up. I know because when I bought my Kioti I asked about the 0 percent and there were 2 different prices, one with normal financing and one with 0 percent. They get the money either way, just depends on when you want to pay it. Like I said if you don't believe it call your local dealer and ask.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 18, 2018)

I read on one of these tractor sights. Zero percent financing or free loader. Home depot does the same thing 0 percent or 10 percent off or something. The interest is built in.


----------



## sb47 (Mar 18, 2018)

I've been mowing the same lot for over 40 years and one thing I figured out years ago is mowing more often will take less time.
My kabota has 3 forward gears with a high/low range. If I mow once a week and the grass is high, I have to mow in #1 high range it takes me 3 hours. 
If I mow twice a week, I can run in #2 high and it only takes me an hour to mow the same spot. I can mow once a week and spend 3 hours. Or twice a week and only spend 2 hours. I save time and run hours on the tractor. It's also easier on the tractor because it's working less.


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 18, 2018)

sirbuildalot said:


> If you choose the 0 percent route the price of the tractor before financing is calculated goes up. I know because when I bought my Kioti I asked about the 0 percent and there were 2 different prices, one with normal financing and one with 0 percent. They get the money either way, just depends on when you want to pay it. Like I said if you don't believe it call your local dealer and ask.



That wasn't the case when I bought my Kubota. The deal was worked prior to any mention of financing or trade. No price changed when I took the 0% financing. The dealer took the value of my trade off the bottom line.

Maybe that's how Kioti structures their deals... I would have went elsewhere.


----------



## sirbuildalot (Mar 18, 2018)

CaseyForrest said:


> That wasn't the case when I bought my Kubota. The deal was worked prior to any mention of financing or trade. No price changed when I took the 0% financing. The dealer took the value of my trade off the bottom line.
> 
> Maybe that's how Kioti structures their deals... I would have went elsewhere.


 Go where to Kubota? No thanks. My NX4510 with 3rd function valve, QA bucket, grapple, driveway plane, and front forks was cheaper than a Kubota L series with no implements, and is more tractor with better specs. Heavier, more lift capacity, more features standard, better 3 point capacity, Etc. The Kubota M series is more comparable specs wise, but is WAY more $$. I priced several brands and Kioti was the best deal I found. Also doesn't make much sense that a salesman would agree to a price before knowing how your paying. That'd be like me agreeing to take a job without knowing my hourly rate or salary.


----------



## hseII (Mar 18, 2018)

sirbuildalot said:


> Go where to Kubota? No thanks. My NX4510 with 3rd function valve, QA bucket, grapple, driveway plane, and front forks was cheaper than a Kubota L series with no implements, and is more tractor with better specs. Heavier, more lift capacity, more features standard, better 3 point capacity, Etc. The Kubota M series is more comparable specs wise, but is WAY more $$. I priced several brands and Kioti was the best deal I found. Also doesn't make much sense that a salesman would agree to a price before knowing how your paying. That'd be like me agreeing to take a job without knowing my hourly rate or salary.



While I believe there is some “cushion” built in, when I bought my Kubota, the price was agreed upon before payment details were worked out. 

When I bought my M7060HD12, I also looked hard at Deere & MF, as we’ve done a lot of business, over 15 Deere & Ferguson pieces in the family in the last 20 years. 

The compatible Deere is made in India & the MF In some EU country.

Not that there is anything wrong with that, but after weighing my Options, Kubota was the clear winner for me.

YMMV


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 18, 2018)

I'm not set on a brand but if I were to buy one of the popular ones it would be a Kubota over a john deere. But I'm really interested in the Ls tractor. Also with a new holland dealer that sells kioti I will look there too. Kubota is the clear winner in the pole. I'm honestly surprised no one voted john deere.


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 18, 2018)

sirbuildalot said:


> Go where to Kubota? No thanks. My NX4510 with 3rd function valve, QA bucket, grapple, driveway plane, and front forks was cheaper than a Kubota L series with no implements, and is more tractor with better specs. Heavier, more lift capacity, more features standard, better 3 point capacity, Etc. The Kubota M series is more comparable specs wise, but is WAY more $$. I priced several brands and Kioti was the best deal I found.



I don't want to get into a pissing match about brand. It also wasn't about _*value*_ between brands. My comment was more about how Kioti chooses to handle their deals based on what you said. If my Kubota salesman had told me there's an up-charge for 0% financing, I would have walked. That would be dishonest and likely illegal.



sirbuildalot said:


> Also doesn't make much sense that a salesman would agree to a price before knowing how your paying. That'd be like me agreeing to take a job without knowing my hourly rate or salary.



Every new vehicle Ive purchased using financing has been exactly that. I walk in, hash out a deal and have a check from our Credit Union to fill out on the spot. I NEVER discuss how I am going to pay prior to the deal being worked. Why would I put the ball in the salesmans court? Its my money..... If it matters to a salesman/dealership whether I am paying cash, using their financing department or an outside institution, if that effects the price of the vehicle, Ill go elsewhere. Doesn't matter what I am buying. Adjusting the price upwards to reflect financing is immoral and unethical. Shoot... I wont even purchase from people that want me to cover the 3% PayPal charges.... Not only is it a violation of the TOS for using PayPal, its unethical.

All that being said, I get the feeling you feel like I'm attacking you. I'm not. Id like to see some real world numbers on there being 2 different prices for an item... You said that's how your deal worked and I wasn't there, so Ill take you at your word. That doesn't mean that's how it works universally....


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 18, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> I'm not set on a brand but if I were to buy one of the popular ones it would be a Kubota over a john deere. But I'm really interested in the Ls tractor. Also with a new holland dealer that sells kioti I will look there too. Kubota is the clear winner in the pole. I'm honestly surprised no one voted john deere.



I looked at Deere and Kubota, those are the 2 dealers closest to me and I didnt want to have to travel if something needed to be fixed.

Between those 2, there aren't really any large enough differences to pick one over they other. They are fairly comparable. One has something the other doesnt and vice versa.... What it came down to was price out the door. This includes base price, negotiated price, deals on implements at the time of purchase etc. The Kubota took that by about $5000 compared to a like equipped Deere. I ALMOST went with a 3038E Deere, but didn't like the concessions I was making over the 2650.


----------



## sb47 (Mar 18, 2018)

CaseyForrest said:


> I looked at Deere and Kubota, those are the 2 dealers closest to me and I didnt want to have to travel if something needed to be fixed.
> 
> Between those 2, there aren't really any large enough differences to pick one over they other. They are fairly comparable. One has something the other doesnt and vice versa.... What it came down to was price out the door. This includes base price, negotiated price, deals on implements at the time of purchase etc. The Kubota took that by about $5000 compared to a like equipped Deere. I ALMOST went with a 3038E Deere, but didn't like the concessions I was making over the 2650.



My Kobota is 33 years old, It's been in the shop once. I don't think service will be an issue.


----------



## Ryan'smilling (Mar 18, 2018)

hseII said:


> I believe those are the same physical size- why buybthe smaller one with less hp?



The 2501 is the same as the 3301 and 3901, but it's been detuned to get under the 25 HP emissions cutoff. The 2501 has no DPF. It's actually the same engine that used to make 34 HP in the L3400. People like them a lot. They're cheap, simple, and heavy enough to do some actual work. If you're running a bush hog or a snowblower or something that really used PTO HP, then it's probably not the right choice, but for loader work and draft work it can be a great choice, especially if you're not in a hurry.


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 18, 2018)

hseII said:


> I know nothing of these.
> 
> Tractor 4wd with trailor
> https://southjersey.craigslist.org/hvo/d/tractor-4wd-with-trailor/6531680559.html


 They are re-branded Kioti's, decent made compacts...

SR


----------



## sirbuildalot (Mar 18, 2018)

Sorry, things got a little out of hand. For 5 acres total, with 3 acres being grass, and a 600 ft driveway I'd pick a machine that is around 2500 lbs, and has at least 32-36" rear rubber, and a full cat 1 hitch. I think for a max of 20 grand you could get that combo with implements in a few brands. Test drive a few and go from there.


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 18, 2018)

sb47 said:


> My Kobota is 33 years old, It's been in the shop once. I don't think service will be an issue.



Heres to hoping... Just under 300 hours on the clock right now. But they've been hard earned hours.


----------



## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 18, 2018)

sb47 said:


> I've been mowing the same lot for over 40 years and one thing I figured out years ago is mowing more often will take less time.
> My kabota has 3 forward gears with a high/low range. If I mow once a week and the grass is high, I have to mow in #1 high range it takes me 3 hours.
> If I mow twice a week, I can run in #2 high and it only takes me an hour to mow the same spot. I can mow once a week and spend 3 hours. Or twice a week and only spend 2 hours. I save time and run hours on the tractor. It's also easier on the tractor because it's working less.



I just run my ZTR roughly wide open speed. If it mows good, it it half mows oh well, I'm not running a golf course.

It handles it just fine till the grass is 8" or taller, then it'll lay some of it down if I don't slow down.

Thankfully mowing season is short. I mow roughly 2-3 times a month. My neighbor who is old and retired I swear must mow every other day, just cause he can I guess.

My ~10 year old machine has maybe 250 hrs on it.

That being said, the ZTR mows WAY better than a tractor. My Dad has a 30hp Kioti, I wouldn't want to mow an average yard with it.
Maybe a flat field with nothing in the way, but even still the ZTR would be quicker.

If it was me, I'd buy a used real tractor and a ZTR.
My brother bough a late 70s ~100hp International with loader, snowblower for under 10k. Only had ~1000hrs on a complete rebuild.

20k for a glorified Sears garden tractor is ridiculous!


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 18, 2018)

Back on point....

I did look at the BX series and 10 series JD..... Im glad I chose to jump up to a CUT. There are times now where it would be nice to have more tractor.... Case in point....

My next project is replacing the single 12" CMP culvert under our drive with 4 12" Double Wall ADS culverts. I need more capacity to handle the flow that comes across our property and the last rain/snow melt event actually took out part of the drive. I don't have a lot of room for a drastic elevation change and I likely wont have the recommended 12" of cover over the pipe. So today I purchased 2 pallets, 112 bags of 60# quickcrete. The kids and I handloaded the 2 pallets, evenly split onto 5 pallets on my trailer. I was hoping that the 21 bags on each pallet (the remainder were laid loose in the trailer) wouldn't be to much for the 2650 to pick up... but it was. Ended up 900 pounds was the magic number. A BX would have been less.

The concrete is basically going to go in as "flowable fill" to support the pipe.


----------



## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 18, 2018)

CaseyForrest said:


> Back on point....
> 
> I did look at the BX series and 10 series JD..... Im glad I chose to jump up to a CUT. There are times now where it would be nice to have more tractor.... Case in point....
> 
> ...



That's one of the things that sucks with the baby tractors, super low lift capacity.

BTW I didn't realize they made small bags of Quickcrete.
We fenced in about 500 acres and all the 6x6 wood posts got concreted in using 80lb bags. Mixed by hand, 1/2 a bag per post.

I later found we had an old concrete mixer here at the shop. I would have fabbed up a Quick Tach mount to the skid steer!


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 18, 2018)

The 60#'ers were specifically because the kids were helping. And I needed help. The 80# bags would have guaranteed I did all the work.


----------



## NSMaple1 (Mar 19, 2018)

CaseyForrest said:


> That wasn't the case when I bought my Kubota. The deal was worked prior to any mention of financing or trade. No price changed when I took the 0% financing. The dealer took the value of my trade off the bottom line.
> 
> Maybe that's how Kioti structures their deals... I would have went elsewhere.



I suspect that the dealer or sales guy was assuming you would be doing 0% financing, or used his numbers based on that. Then once you got the deal worked - if you had offered paying cash & pressed for a discount for doing so, you quite likely would have gotten one. Quite sure he wouldn't have worked a deal out starting from the low side of his numbers - i.e., his cash purchase side. They would be working from their high side. Then if a cash purchase came into the talk after a deal was worked but the buyer didn't press for a discount, they would be upping their margin by that much.


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 19, 2018)

NSMaple1 said:


> I suspect that the dealer or sales guy was assuming you would be doing 0% financing, or used his numbers based on that. Then once you got the deal worked - if you had offered paying cash & pressed for a discount for doing so, you quite likely would have gotten one. Quite sure he wouldn't have worked a deal out starting from the low side of his numbers - i.e., his cash purchase side. They would be working from their high side. Then if a cash purchase came into the talk after a deal was worked but the buyer didn't press for a discount, they would be upping their margin by that much.


You may be right. 

Buts that's a lot of hypotheticals. 

sent from a field


----------



## Big_Eddy (Mar 19, 2018)

Back to the original question.
I have an older JD855 CUT with loader and backhoe. About 25HP at the PTO. It has turfs on the rear and R4s on the fronts.
I have 2 acres of (treed) grass and 75 acres of woods.
Runs a 5' bush hog, 5' snowblower and 4" chipper with ease. I also have a 60" mower for it, but I never mount it.

I use my CUT in the woods almost exclusively. It's a great size for getting into tight spots and cutting and hauling out firewood. We make maple syrup every spring, and it tows my 100 gallon tank trailers with ease. On dry ground, the tractor is unstoppable. However I have never skidded a log with it, but I can tell you for sure - unless it was a small log, flat pull, good dry ground - it would not move it. It's all about traction. Pulling a 5x7 trailer loaded with firewood up any kind of slope in snow or on hard frozen ground is questionable. The rear turfs start to slip long before the tractor runs out of grunt. Same with wet leaves or mud.

If I had to do it again, I would buy larger (slightly), with Ag tires all around. I certainly wouldn't want anything smaller.

That said - the OP said he would be doing mostly mowing. His needs may be different. I don't mow with the tractor as I have too many trees too close together and it's too big. Sure - it makes short work of the open sections and up the orchard rows, but it just isn't maneuverable on the "landscaped" portion of the lawn. I use a large lawn tractor instead.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 19, 2018)

I plan on industrial tires. Ag tires would be to much for the yard. But I had my last tractor stuck and that's not a good place to be. The lawn tractor gets stuck all the time but it's a home depot special. I'm not sure how easy mowing will be at first but with a loader and 6 chainsaws I should be able to adjust some things if I have to. Most of the trees in the way are ash trees and they won't be around much longer.


----------



## blackdogon57 (Mar 19, 2018)

Don’t underestimate turf tires. My JD has 3000 plus hours over 13 years and the rear tires are mint. On my second set of fronts. I run a 60 inch belly deck in the summer and a 60 inch FEL mouted plow in the winter. I ran a commercial firewood busines for many years and used this machine to load the processor. Never had to be pulled out of the mud or snow. The odd time you get stuck the down pressure on the FEL will get you out. This machine was about 28k new and the dealer recently told me he would give me 10-12k on a trade. Pretty good value despite the higher up front cost. If you do basic maintenance these tractors will last indefinitely. Good luck with what ever you decide to buy.


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 19, 2018)

Ditto on turf tires. I bought mine with the industrial tires and ended up swapping them out for turfs. I don't regret it one bit.

But I also don't take my tractor into the woods. If I did, I wouldn't have changed the tires. The front turfs do not have the same sidewalls the r4 tires do.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 19, 2018)

I'm not "going" into the woods but my house is in the woods sourounded by wet lands so it can get tricky in some parts of the yard. What's the issue with the r4 tires? Do they tear up the lawn or something?


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 19, 2018)

They are a little more aggressive on the turf. Its not bad.... The turfs handle snow removal a bit better.


----------



## sb47 (Mar 19, 2018)

I like the turfs too. Mine are 33 years old and still going. The biggest problem with compact tractors is there weight. Put water in the tires and run lower pressure to give you more weight and traction. Pick the right gear and my little tractor like most tractors will turn the tires regardless if it moves or not. I can mow even on wet grass without much damage with turfs, I would do it with lugged tires though. I can see getting hung up on a wet root with turfs where lugged tires may work better. I guess, pick your poison.


----------



## blackdogon57 (Mar 19, 2018)

sb47 said:


> I like the turfs too. Mine are 33 years old and still going. The biggest problem with compact tractors is there weight. Put water in the tires and run lower pressure to give you more weight and traction. Pick the right gear and my little tractor like most tractors will turn the tires regardless if it moves or not. I can mow even on wet grass without much damage with turfs, I would do it with lugged tires though. I can see getting hung up on a wet root with turfs where lugged tires may work better. I guess, pick your poison.


I agree, counterweight is needed for loader work and helps for plowing but I find the extra weight causes turf damage. I attach a 3pt box full of concrete. Does the trick.


----------



## hseII (Mar 19, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> I plan on industrial tires. Ag tires would be to much for the yard. But I had my last tractor stuck and that's not a good place to be. The lawn tractor gets stuck all the time but it's a home depot special. I'm not sure how easy mowing will be at first but with a loader and 6 chainsaws I should be able to adjust some things if I have to. Most of the trees in the way are ash trees and they won't be around much longer.



R4 FTW!


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 19, 2018)

Alright I'm set on a compact tractor like I thought i was before. So now let's hear about tires. Ag tires are out of the question. I'm not worried about traction mowing. I have snow removal covered but maybe a front mount snow blower some day would be nice. I want decent tires for loader work but not ones that will destroy the grass that's y I thought r4.


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 19, 2018)

You'll likely be fine with the r4 if you're set on them. They do handle weight better.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 19, 2018)

Don't want this again.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 19, 2018)

CaseyForrest said:


> You'll likely be fine with the r4 if you're set on them. They do handle weight better.



I was set on my decision before this post but I wanted to hear from other people on what everyone thought was my best way to spend money. Tires are important and they all come with them and most brands will give you what ever style you want for no extra cost. Or so I have read on their sites.


----------



## sb47 (Mar 19, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> I was set on my decision before this post but I wanted to hear from other people on what everyone thought was my best way to spend money. Tires are important and they all come with them and most brands will give you what ever style you want for no extra cost. Or so I have read on their sites.


My turfs will handle anything the tractor will handle. I don't think load rating is going to be an issue. The dealer will know if the tires are rated for that tractor and it's load rating. I run water in mine so that increases it's load rating. Water doesn't compress like air so they don't squat like they would with air only.


----------



## hseII (Mar 19, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> Don't want this again.
> 
> View attachment 640619



The Tires didn’t cause that Mista.

That’s a Case of Yo Fault.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 19, 2018)

hseII said:


> The Tires didn’t cause that Mista.
> 
> That’s a Case of Yo Fault.



That started with a little bit of mud when the front tired got stuck. The loader wouldn't push it out and I ended up driving farther into the mud and digging 2 foot holes in the ground. 4wd would have fixed my original stuck. Nothing would have helped the final stuck. My truck took a beating that day. Still going though.


----------



## hseII (Mar 19, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> That started with a little bit of mud when the front tired got stuck. The loader wouldn't push it out and I ended up driving farther into the mud and digging 2 foot holes in the ground. 4wd would have fixed my original stuck. Nothing would have helped the final stuck. My truck took a beating that day. Still going though.





We’ve all been there.


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 19, 2018)

sb47 said:


> Well not everyone is a beginner and needs it. It's useless in most cases. A good operator can make those adjustments with the up/down control. Besides, not all large tractors have that feature ether.


 I guess it depends on what YOUR definition of a "large" tractor is...

It's far from useless.....otherwise it wouldn't be on ANY tractor...

ALL of MY "large" tractors have it, and even some of my not so large have it... lol

SR


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 20, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> I was set on my decision before this post but I wanted to hear from other people on what everyone thought was my best way to spend money. Tires are important and they all come with them and most brands will give you what ever style you want for no extra cost. Or so I have read on their sites.



My point was dont get to wrapped around it.

Ultimately, with how you intend to use the tractor the majority of the time, Id pick turfs. They are easier on the yard, and provide better traction for snow removal.

But "easier on the yard" can be subjective. My r4 tires didn't tear the yard up much at all. The turfs simply do it even less.


----------



## backhoelover (Mar 20, 2018)

I’ll be looking at a Mahindra tractor might go for it


----------



## backhoelover (Mar 20, 2018)

I’ve


----------



## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 20, 2018)

sb47 said:


> I run water in mine so that increases it's load rating.



Negative. Just means better traction. The tractor didn't suddenly get built with heavier duty parts.

I've seen plenty of front axles torn up from loader use.
Add a ton of weight on the drives and it'll be overloading the steer axle when picking up heavy things.


A friend was going through tractor front ends often enough on his dairy farm he went out and bought a regular front end loader for moving feed and manure.


----------



## sbhooper (Mar 20, 2018)

Go to Youtube and look at all of the videos on small tractors. The John Deere 1025 class of small tractor does a lot of work. Also, look around for good used tractors. There are several sites that advertise them. I just bought my John Deere 3038e locally from a John Deere mechanic. I have about half the money in it that a new one costs. It only has 234 hours on the whole tractor and 17 on a brand new motor. It is a great tractor.


----------



## NSMaple1 (Mar 20, 2018)

sb47 said:


> My turfs will handle anything the tractor will handle. I don't think load rating is going to be an issue. The dealer will know if the tires are rated for that tractor and it's load rating. I run water in mine so that increases it's load rating. Water doesn't compress like air so they don't squat like they would with air only.



I'm not so sure about that one. The tires will still see the same pressure on them. AFAIK the load rating on the sides of the tires goes, whether they are loaded or not.


----------



## sb47 (Mar 20, 2018)

ValleyFirewood said:


> Negative. Just means better traction. The tractor didn't suddenly get built with heavier duty parts.
> 
> I've seen plenty of front axles torn up from loader use.
> Add a ton of weight on the drives and it'll be overloading the steer axle when picking up heavy things.
> ...



I don't run a FEL and I was referring to the tires carrying more weight, not the tractor.


----------



## blackdogon57 (Mar 20, 2018)

sbhooper said:


> Go to Youtube and look at all of the videos on small tractors. The John Deere 1025 class of small tractor does a lot of work. Also, look around for good used tractors. There are several sites that advertise them. I just bought my John Deere 3038e locally from a John Deere mechanic. I have about half the money in it that a new one costs. It only has 234 hours on the whole tractor and 17 on a brand new motor. It is a great tractor.


Wonder how someone blew up a 3038 with only 200 hours ? That's barely broken in. Sweet deal for you !


----------



## Ryan'smilling (Mar 20, 2018)

sb47 said:


> I don't run a FEL and I was referring to the tires carrying more weight, not the tractor.



They're right though, in that adding fluid doesn't do anything for the tire's ability to carry a load. More traction and stability, yes, more capacity, no. Actually, they'll only fill tires to 75% to allow for some air in there specifically so it can compress and absorb shock. Now you could fill your tires with foam and increase their strength, but then you'd be transferring a lock of shock to the frame and the operator.


----------



## Big_Eddy (Mar 20, 2018)

Interestingly Kubota used to specifically recommend against loading tires. The Kubota recommended solution was a ballast box. Not sure if that's still the case, but it used to be all over their brochures.
The reasoning was never stated - just the recommendation.


----------



## sb47 (Mar 20, 2018)

Ryan'smilling said:


> They're right though, in that adding fluid doesn't do anything for the tire's ability to carry a load. More traction and stability, yes, more capacity, no. Actually, they'll only fill tires to 75% to allow for some air in there specifically so it can compress and absorb shock. Now you could fill your tires with foam and increase their strength, but then you'd be transferring a lock of shock to the frame and the operator.



Well at a blistering speed of 6 mph. I don't think a rough ride is an issue. I have mine as full as I can get them.


----------



## NSMaple1 (Mar 20, 2018)

I still don't think you are increasing load capacity of the tires. That would come at the expense of exceeding the specs on the side of the tires, and increasing chances of a tire failure - whether what was in the inside was air or water. Also, with no airspace inside, they would see quite a swing in pressures with swings in temperatures - that is likely the reason for the recommendations against filling full. Whenever we get tires loaded, they always aim for putting enough in just to cover all the rim area.


----------



## sb47 (Mar 20, 2018)

NSMaple1 said:


> I still don't think you are increasing load capacity of the tires. That would come at the expense of exceeding the specs on the side of the tires, and increasing chances of a tire failure - whether what was in the inside was air or water. Also, with no airspace inside, they would see quite a swing in pressures with swings in temperatures - that is likely the reason for the recommendations against filling full. Whenever we get tires loaded, they always aim for putting enough in just to cover all the rim area.



I live in Texas, what temp swings?  I have not had any issues with temp swings and tire pressure.


----------



## NSMaple1 (Mar 20, 2018)

sb47 said:


> I live in Texas, what temp swings?  I have not had any issues with temp swings and tire pressure.



Must get hot in the sun down there?


----------



## farmer steve (Mar 20, 2018)

just for reference for the op. i bought the biggest "compact" tractor that New Holland had at the time TC 55DA 4 WD. roughly 55 HP. i wanted a bigger tractor but needed something that would fit in my barn to remove sheep fertilizer.  i also use it for plowing fields and snow. i have the ag tires. not the greatest for the lawn but i needed traction. my rear tires are fluid filled. i bought it with 4,000 lb. forks and a bucket. i have since added a rock bucket which works great for hauling firewood. oil and filters changed every 100 hours +/-. i had a friend call me sunday to come get a downed ash tree. he has a sub compact JD. 20 something HP. barely could drag the tree out. buy as big as your budget allows and get the attachments you think you might need. the quick attach system gives you a lot of options on stuff. good luck with your purchase. the only thing i wish i had was a cab WITH HEAT for blowing snow.


----------



## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 20, 2018)

The tire load rating isn't changed. It's easy to damage light duty tires that are loaded actually since they don't have the air cushion. 
I've seen tires blow apart from that.

Have to be careful with loaded to


sb47 said:


> I don't run a FEL and I was referring to the tires carrying more weight, not the tractor.


----------



## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 20, 2018)

farmer steve said:


> just for reference for the op. i bought the biggest "compact" tractor that New Holland had at the time TC 55DA 4 WD. roughly 55 HP. i wanted a bigger tractor but needed something that would fit in my barn to remove sheep fertilizer.  i also use it for plowing fields and snow. i have the ag tires. not the greatest for the lawn but i needed traction. my rear tires are fluid filled. i bought it with 4,000 lb. forks and a bucket. i have since added a rock bucket which works great for hauling firewood. oil and filters changed every 100 hours +/-. i had a friend call me sunday to come get a downed ash tree. he has a sub compact JD. 20 something HP. barely could drag the tree out. buy as big as your budget allows and get the attachments you think you might need. the quick attach system gives you a lot of options on stuff. good luck with your purchase. the only thing i wish i had was a cab WITH HEAT for blowing snow.



That's an odd LOF interval. Most of our equipment specs 250 or 300hrs (which is certainly playing it safe too)


----------



## farmer steve (Mar 20, 2018)

ValleyFirewood said:


> That's an odd LOF interval. Most of our equipment specs 250 or 300hrs (which is certainly playing it safe too)


going by the book on oil changes. 100 hrs. hydraulics and front gear boxes are 600 hrs. ain't taking no chances as the boss says that's the last new one i get. so far so good in 11 years.


----------



## sb47 (Mar 20, 2018)

NSMaple1 said:


> Must get hot in the sun down there?


It does effect my tires on my race quad. I run 11 lb's in the front and 9 in the rear. I have to be careful how I park it at the track. If one side is in the sun and the other side in the shade, it can make the pressure go up about 4/5 lb's in the one on the sunny side. Thats enough to make handling an issue.


----------



## sb47 (Mar 20, 2018)

ValleyFirewood said:


> The tire load rating isn't changed. It's easy to damage light duty tires that are loaded actually since they don't have the air cushion.
> I've seen tires blow apart from that.
> 
> Have to be careful with loaded to


Been doing it for 33 years, no issues yet!


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 20, 2018)

sb47 said:


> I live in Texas, what temp swings?  I have not had any issues with temp swings and tire pressure.



I've been to Dallas the temp changes a lot there. I was there in April and it was the same temp it is here. You must be further south.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 20, 2018)

farmer steve said:


> just for reference for the op. i bought the biggest "compact" tractor that New Holland had at the time TC 55DA 4 WD. roughly 55 HP. i wanted a bigger tractor but needed something that would fit in my barn to remove sheep fertilizer.  i also use it for plowing fields and snow. i have the ag tires. not the greatest for the lawn but i needed traction. my rear tires are fluid filled. i bought it with 4,000 lb. forks and a bucket. i have since added a rock bucket which works great for hauling firewood. oil and filters changed every 100 hours +/-. i had a friend call me sunday to come get a downed ash tree. he has a sub compact JD. 20 something HP. barely could drag the tree out. buy as big as your budget allows and get the attachments you think you might need. the quick attach system gives you a lot of options on stuff. good luck with your purchase. the only thing i wish i had was a cab WITH HEAT for blowing snow.



I have one of those 20 year old sportsman 500 atvs and it will drag out a lot of stuff. It's all chained up at the moment and can do a good amount of work for its size. I'd hope which ever tractor I get will do more work than my atv or I'll be very disappointed. A compact tractor of 25 hp should be about 3 times the weight so hopefully that helps pulling stuff.


----------



## sb47 (Mar 20, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> I have one of those 20 year old sportsman 500 atvs and it will drag out a lot of stuff. It's all chained up at the moment and can do a good amount of work for its size. I'd hope which ever tractor I get will do more work than my atv or I'll be very disappointed. A compact tractor of 25 hp should be about 3 times the weight so hopefully that helps pulling stuff.



I have race atv's so they don't pull very well. Even though I only have 2 wheel drive, I'm positive my little B5200 will drag that 500 all over the place. If it gets sketchy, I'll just push in the dif lock and that atv wouldn't stand a chance. I'm guessing that 500 is around 550/650lb's at best. My B5200 weighs in at 1050 dry. Water in the tires probably ads another 500 lbs.


----------



## sirbuildalot (Mar 21, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> I have one of those 20 year old sportsman 500 atvs and it will drag out a lot of stuff. It's all chained up at the moment and can do a good amount of work for its size. I'd hope which ever tractor I get will do more work than my atv or I'll be very disappointed. A compact tractor of 25 hp should be about 3 times the weight so hopefully that helps pulling stuff.




A subcompact would outpull an ATV, never mind a compact.


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 21, 2018)

sirbuildalot said:


> A subcompact would outpull an ATV, never mind a compact.


 I wouldn't bet on that one...

"MY" Yamaha Grizzly 600 in 4wd will out pull "MY" Kubota B6200 with MFWD that has one size bigger rubber off a B7200 on it. (ag tires)

There's no question about it... Maybe in some "special" circumstance it wouldn't, but in every day life it will and does...

SR


----------



## sirbuildalot (Mar 21, 2018)

Rob,

How is that possible when a 2wd garden tractor outpulls a 4wd 4 wheeler


----------



## NSMaple1 (Mar 21, 2018)

Sawyer Rob said:


> I wouldn't bet on that one...
> 
> "MY" Yamaha Grizzly 600 in 4wd will out pull "MY" Kubota B6200 with MFWD that has one size bigger rubber off a B7200 on it. (ag tires)
> 
> ...



I want to see a video of that.


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 21, 2018)

NSMaple1 said:


> I want to see a video of that.


 Me too, come and make one...

I'll load my trailer full of stone/rocks and try to pull it across my fields to my house...

SR


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 21, 2018)

sirbuildalot said:


> Rob,
> How is that possible when a 2wd garden tractor outpulls a 4wd 4 wheeler


 Did you notice that when the 4-wheeler was in -------->4wd it pulled the garden tractor backwards???

Anyway, I don't use my tractor OR my Grizzly on pavement... Did you miss the part about REAL WORLD...

SR


----------



## sb47 (Mar 21, 2018)

Thats a lawn mower, not a compact tractor.


----------



## sirbuildalot (Mar 21, 2018)

sb47 said:


> Thats a lawn mower, not a compact tractor.




Exactly, and it was a fairly even match.

How Rob can say his ATV would out pull his subcompact without ever actually hooking them up is odd.


----------



## sirbuildalot (Mar 21, 2018)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Did you notice that when the 4-wheeler was in -------->4wd it pulled the garden tractor backwards???
> 
> Anyway, I don't use my tractor OR my Grizzly on pavement... Did you miss the part about REAL WORLD...
> 
> SR




So would a better "REAL WORLD" test be comparing them on dirt when the 4 wheeler has deep lugged tires and the tractor turfs meant for grass???


----------



## sirbuildalot (Mar 21, 2018)

Here's another one. This is pretty comparable to today's subcompacts. Skip the first and second attempts as the tractor operator did not know what he was doing. Didnt even realize he was in 2wd, yet the quad still couldn't win. Go to 3:40 for a fair comparison. Notice although on gravel and the ATV having an obvious tire selection advantage for the type of turf, the weight and torque of the tractor was too much.




And please, no one come in and whine about the tractor having a blower on the front. The quad has a plow and its itty bitty winch couldn't handle picking up a real implement like a big snowblower.


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 21, 2018)

sirbuildalot said:


> Exactly, and it was a fairly even match.
> 
> How Rob can say his ATV would out pull his subcompact without ever actually hooking them up is odd.


 DOH, where did I say I wouldn't hook them up??

AS I ALREADY said, MY 600 Grizzly WILL out pull my B6200 and I bet you MY B6200 will pull as much as a sub-com pact... That was and IS my point.

SR


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 21, 2018)

sirbuildalot said:


> Exactly, and it was a fairly even match.
> 
> How Rob can say his ATV would out pull his subcompact without ever actually hooking them up is odd.


 DOH, where did I say I wouldn't hook them up??

AS I ALREADY said, MY 600 Grizzly WILL out pull my B6200 and I bet you MY B6200 will pull as much as a sub-com pact... That was and IS my point.

SR


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 21, 2018)

It's all about traction. Turf tires on a sub compact vs mud tires on an atv in grass I'm going to say the atv wins. I used to have a lifted ford ranger back in the day with super swampers and it would go through anything and pull all those big trucks out. I pulled out a duramax the one time.


----------



## sb47 (Mar 21, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> It's all about traction. Turf tires on a sub compact vs mud tires on an atv in grass I'm going to say the atv wins. I used to have a lifted ford ranger back in the day with super swampers and it would go through anything and pull all those big trucks out. I pulled out a duramax the one time.



Exactly,For dragging logs, the tractor should have the advantage because you can use the 3 point hitch to slightly lift the load. Thus giving the tractor more traction and the log is not digging into the dirt. I've yet to see an ATV with a 3 point hitch.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 21, 2018)

sb47 said:


> Exactly,For dragging logs, the tractor should have the advantage because you can use the 3 point hitch to slightly lift the load. Thus giving the tractor more traction and the log is not digging into the dirt. I've yet to see an ATV with a 3 point hitch.



Usually I carry logs out on my shoulder because as you said the atv won't lift them and one branch stuck in the ground is like a hook in the mud. I think your old Kubota is more of a tractor than these new ones. I had a shaft driven large tire mtd lawn tractor about 10 years ago and that thing was a work horse. Nothing like my "22 hp" lawn tractor today. I cracked the frame on that tractor pulling a concrete slab. It was like the 70s sub compact tractor. I'm a bit skeptical of these sub compact tractors that look like a garden tractor with a loader.


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 21, 2018)

sb47 said:


> Exactly,For dragging logs, the tractor should have the advantage because you can use the 3 point hitch to slightly lift the load. Thus giving the tractor more traction and the log is not digging into the dirt. I've yet to see an ATV with a 3 point hitch.


 Maybe on some ATV's, but on my Grizzly I can hook just as high as a SC 3 point will go...

SR


----------



## sb47 (Mar 21, 2018)

The tractor definitely has a torque and gearing advantage.


----------



## NSMaple1 (Mar 22, 2018)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Maybe on some ATV's, but on my Grizzly I can hook just as high as a SC 3 point will go...
> 
> SR



That would break the front wheels loose on my 4x4 ATV. Then I'm back to 2WD.


----------



## sirbuildalot (Mar 22, 2018)

I'm pretty sure he said to help *LIFT* the load. Just hooking higher isn't the same as hooking low and lifting the butt end off the ground.

Whether or not *YOUR* grizzly will out pull *YOUR *Kubota B6200 is debatable. That's a tiny tractor and in my opinion it would still out pull a 4 wheeler. What's *NOT* debatable is tractors in general are designed for work and torque, 4 wheelers in general are designed for going fast and playing. Can they do work...yes....will they outwork a tractor that weighs 2 or 3 times as much...no...no they wont.


----------



## sbhooper (Mar 22, 2018)

blackdogon57 said:


> Wonder how someone blew up a 3038 with only 200 hours ? That's barely broken in. Sweet deal for you !


Evidently, he got a hole in the coolant system somewhere and did not pay attention to the idiot light. He smoked it. John Deere told the guy that it was going to cost him $15000 to re-do it. He said no way and that is where the mechanic and salesman came in and bought the tractor from him (probably for little or nothing). They went straight to Yanmar, bypassing John Deere, for a new motor. The mechanic did it as an after-work project, as he needed some money for a pulling tractor that he is building. I had to get the brake fixed and get the front axle seals replaced. I just put a Tuff Top on it. I have less than 16 grand in what is essentially a new tractor. 

The only problem is that now I keep looking for another project to use it on. The thing is just plain fun to use, when compared to my big old International.

I would guess that Kubota did not want fluid in the tires, due to the corrosive nature of calcium chloride. Now, using beet juice, I would guess that it is different, but I am not familiar with Kubota practices.


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 22, 2018)

NSMaple1 said:


> That would break the front wheels loose on my 4x4 ATV. Then I'm back to 2WD.


 That's true, BUT lifting the 3 point on a tractor takes the weight off the front wheels too...

I OWN the 600 Grizzly and I OWN the 6200 and have owned them both for many years, so I know what they will do, I've pilled many loads with both.

Do you nay sayers own both of those??? Have you actually TRIED both??

You can't sit there and tell me what you don't know, because YOU haven't tried both.

SR


----------



## sirbuildalot (Mar 22, 2018)

So by your logic....

I've never tried out pulling a garden tractor with a power wheels jeep, guess I can't make any claims that the garden tractor would win.

I've never tried jumping out of a plane without a parachute, guess I can't claim it would kill me.

I've never tried wrestling a full grown grizzly bear, guess I can't claim it would throw me around like a ragdoll

Hmmmm....if I took and had a 6' tall 200 lb man and a 4' tall 70 lb boy enter a tug of war competition, I can't say the man would easily win???


Just because I haven't tried something or don't own something doesn't mean I cant used logic and common sense to come to a reasonable conclusion as to what would happen


----------



## NSMaple1 (Mar 22, 2018)

Sawyer Rob said:


> That's true, BUT lifting the 3 point on a tractor takes the weight off the front wheels too...
> 
> I OWN the 600 Grizzly and I OWN the 6200 and have owned them both for many years, so I know what they will do, I've pilled many loads with both.
> 
> ...



That's true, but the tractor has a lot more weight over the front wheels.

We can all consider facts and form opinions, without actually owning whatever it is we're considering. Asserting otherwise is silly. The main fact here being, the tractor weighs almost exactly 2x what the ATV does. Which should play the most part in pulling ability - contributing to the main limiting factor, that being traction. That's not to say the opinion formed is guaranteed true, and might turn out not to be - but it is certainly worthy of expressing.


----------



## sb47 (Mar 22, 2018)

There is one factor no one has mentioned yet. Operator skill. Just dumping the clutch and hoping for the best is not going to win many pulling contest. Like drag racing, the drivers talent plays a big role in who will win.


----------



## kljahnz (Mar 22, 2018)

My prediction is this is in your future. 60 inch deck and the 50 inch front blower. If I need to dig I'll use a skid loader.
The fit and finish beats the JD, controls are much more ergonomicly placed.
I was using a 72 inch zero turn to mow (4hrs). I'm a bit slower now, but making a 180 turn (backward 90 and forward 90) really surprised me.
I skiped over the last half of the pages, pissing match about a tractor compared to a 4wheeler wasn't interesting. Visit your dealers and watch a few youtube videos, you'll then be ready to buy what fits your intended use.
ohh, the 4x4 worked great this winter while blowing snow. They pack alot of tractor in a little package.


----------



## NSMaple1 (Mar 22, 2018)

That's a nice rig.

Is the blower shaft drive? Thinking so but not sure.

I've been thinking about upgrading our JD ride on to something just like that, but not sure I can convince my other half. I have chains on the back end year round, we have a very hilly lawn that can make for a spin out if not paying attention. So 4WD would be nice. So would a front blower.


----------



## kljahnz (Mar 22, 2018)

Yes, shaft drive. The bx80 series has been revamped, so attachments driven of the front have a new mounting system. A real time saver, dropping the blower and putting the deck on is quick and easy.
Watch some videos and visit a dealer.
I have no chains an not planning to get any. My drive way is around 700 ft long. If I was using a blade, I'd probably want chains.


----------



## kljahnz (Mar 22, 2018)

When you watch those videos, there is a bias, so watch each and remember they will always try to show their product in a brighter lite.


----------



## NSMaple1 (Mar 22, 2018)

Interesting that 32 votes have been cast in the poll and none of them are for JD. They're fairly popular around here. We only ended up with ours because we won it in a 4H raffle - but I have been pretty happy with it. Then again the huge step up from the old Yardman would likely have made any replacement look good.


----------



## dave_dj1 (Mar 22, 2018)

NSMaple1 said:


> Interesting that 32 votes have been cast in the poll and none of them are for JD. They're fairly popular around here. We only ended up with ours because we won it in a 4H raffle - but I have been pretty happy with it. Then again the huge step up from the old Yardman would likely have made any replacement look good.



So you're the one vote for green! LOL I suppose your are correct, any color would probably make that old yardman look bad...lol I think anything that you like and does the job you have it for is OK with me regardless of color


----------



## sirbuildalot (Mar 22, 2018)

kljahnz said:


> View attachment 641271
> View attachment 641272
> 
> My prediction is this is in your future. 60 inch deck and the 50 inch front blower. If I need to dig I'll use a skid loader.
> ...



What did that cost?

I know I mentioned it previously, but I think a Kioti CK2510 would be an ideal size for the OP's situation. I think the BX sized machines would be better mowers, but that's about it. For the other tasks, logging, driveway grading, plowing snow, pulling laden trailers or wagons, etc. The bigger size and capability of the CK would really be evident quickly I think. I doubt there is any price difference. If anything I bet a CK can be had for less than a lot of the BX Kubota's.


----------



## NSMaple1 (Mar 22, 2018)

dave_dj1 said:


> So you're the one vote for green! LOL I suppose your are correct, any color would probably make that old yardman look bad...lol I think anything that you like and does the job you have it for is OK with me regardless of color



No, I voted orange actually. That green vote wasn't there when I looked. We also have a Kubota, bit bigger than these ones. Forget the model, but it's in the 40-50hp range. I think.


----------



## kljahnz (Mar 22, 2018)

sirbuildalot said:


> What did that cost?
> 
> I know I mentioned it previously, but I think a Kioti CK2510 would be an ideal size for the OP's situation. I think the BX sized machines would be better mowers, but that's about it. For the other tasks, logging, driveway grading, plowing snow, pulling laden trailers or wagons, etc. The bigger size and capability of the CK would really be evident quickly I think. I doubt there is any price difference. If anything I bet a CK can be had for less than a lot of the BX Kubota's.


Kinda nosie aren't ya? Just kidding!
I'm in it for an insanely amount of 18 grand. Zero percent interst and a grand in rebates on the purchase of the second attachment. The snowblower was pretty expensive. A back blade would have been peanuts compared to the front snowblower.
I disagree about moving loaded trailers, moving wood last fall wasn't a problem. My trailer is the week link currently.
I'm planning to try a box blade this spring, but I'm more than confident this bx will hadle it.
Log skidding isn't what I needed this for, but I'm sure if I needed to, I would be plesently suprised. It's much more than a lawnmower.
13,780 for the tractor and deck. taxman got another 1220.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 22, 2018)

Yea that seems like a lot to me. Yes mowing the lawn will be my main use but it's equally as important that it has a loader and can function like a small farm tractor. Other wise I would just buy a nice mower.

That snow blower is nice but snow removal is not a big concern. I plow with the atv now and have the plow for the truck too.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 22, 2018)

As far as the atv thing whatever will out pull the other does not matter to me. But I disagree that atvs are only designed for fun and not work. Ever see one of those polaris 6x6 atvs I would not want to trail ride with that.


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 22, 2018)

sirbuildalot said:


> So by your logic....
> 
> I've never tried out pulling a garden tractor with a power wheels jeep, guess I can't make any claims that the garden tractor would win.
> 
> ...


 BUT, I did try it, so that's MY logic... The rest of you can keep on guessing... lol lol

SR


----------



## blackdogon57 (Mar 22, 2018)

I was the JD vote


----------



## farmer steve (Mar 23, 2018)

blackdogon57 said:


> I was the JD vote


1 in every crowd.


----------



## captjack (Mar 25, 2018)

Im green but on the Utility tractor team. i always say get the next size or two up from what you think you need cause you will grow into it for sure !!


----------



## sbhooper (Mar 26, 2018)

I was the other jd vote. If I was buying new, I would buy Kubota, but I got a good deal on the JD, used.


----------



## DSW (Mar 26, 2018)

Checked out a couple of places over the weekend. One had a bx2200 I was interested in, older and decently used from the looks of it just like I prefer if the price is right, 10,900. No thanks.

My needs are a bit different than most,a BX isn't ideal but for 5-6k I'd probably justify it just to tinker around with it.

A mini skidsteer is the most ideal for me and then renting anything else would make the most sense. Mowing isn't high on the list.


----------



## DSW (Mar 26, 2018)

Not to further muddy the thread but anybody seen the ATV loaders?

300lb capacity, runs off a battery and cost 3k plus.


----------



## hseII (Mar 26, 2018)

DSW said:


> Checked out a couple of places over the weekend. One had a bx2200 I was interested in, older and decently used from the looks of it just like I prefer if the price is right, 10,900. No thanks.
> 
> My needs are a bit different than most,a BX isn't ideal but for 5-6k I'd probably justify it just to tinker around with it.
> 
> A mini skidsteer is the most ideal for me and then renting anything else would make the most sense. Mowing isn't high on the list.



Now this Guy has a Plan.

I tested a MT85 bobcat. 

I likey Likey.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 26, 2018)

I can only imagine how that handles and with no down pressure Idk how well it would scoop. My atv plow doesn't push dirt it floats.


----------



## blackdogon57 (Mar 26, 2018)

Those stand on track loaders work really well in tight areas but are very slow moving in big spaces and tend to have modest lift capacity compared to a compact tractor.


----------



## DSW (Mar 26, 2018)

hseII said:


> Now this Guy has a Plan.
> 
> I tested a MT85 bobcat.
> 
> I likey Likey.



I'm not familiar with that one but I'm going to assume it's similar to the ones I look at with a little more Grey Poupon.



Mustang71 said:


> I can only imagine how that handles and with no down pressure Idk how well it would scoop. My atv plow doesn't push dirt it floats.



I understand it's capacity is going to be limited right off the bat but the price is what caught me off guard.


----------



## kljahnz (Mar 26, 2018)

I have a 5 acre wooded lot with about 3 acres of cutting.[/QUOTE]

Seems kinda small. What's the topagraphy like? Or are you going to skid logs from somewhere else?

I'd leave the mess in the woods, keep the wood clean and my chains sharp.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 27, 2018)

kljahnz said:


> I have a 5 acre wooded lot with about 3 acres of cutting.



Seems kinda small. What's the topagraphy like? Or are you going to skid logs from somewhere else?

I'd leave the mess in the woods, keep the wood clean and my chains sharp.[/QUOTE]

I'm not getting a tractor for fire wood. It's all wet lands around the house. I want to make sure I have a tractor that can pull some stuff if I need to. If I were pulling logs the max I would need to go is like 50 feet to grass.


----------



## leonardo (Mar 27, 2018)

i have a small firewood and brush hogging business. small as in $10,000 a year gross sales for both. use a 5 ft brush mower and pull logs out of the woods and move splits in bucket on front end loader. started out with a 30 hp farm trac. a month after purchase they went out of business. my dealer then became an ls rep. after three years of running the farm trac and realizing it was too under .powered for my needs i traded for a 39 hp ls. 3 years later i traded up to a 45 hp ls. now i am a happy tractor owner. was amazed at the amount dealer gave me on both trades. from my experience i would advise not to go with the sub compact, and more importantly, no belly mower. go with a rear finish mower. if you use your tractor in the woods, no matter how careful you are you'll catch the belly mower on a stump or tree or something and screw up the works. good luck. both my ls tractors were/are impressive machines.


----------



## Finn1 (Mar 28, 2018)

Another vote for the Kioti.

I sold my skidsteer and bought a Kioti CK 4010 hst with a cab. The skid steer was great for dirt work and moving pallets and firewood, but sucked for snow removal and general winter operation because it couldn’t handle ice and any kind of hill or crown on the driveway or road.

The tractor came with a factory cab and 60” front mounted snowblower, along with the quick attach bucket, box blade and loaded tires.

I picked Kioti for the dealer location primarily and price second.

Kubota wasn’t in the running because the closest dealer was 120 miles away and went belly up because of a divorce situation.

None of the dealers I talked with recommended a belly mower on a compact or subcompact tractor. A ztr is faster, and, at least according to them, cheaper, and doesn’t compromise the other functions of a tractor. They even recommended a cheap lawn tractor for mowing the lawn over a drive over mower.

The CK4010 is a 40 hp tractor, but the CK series is available in lower power variations and without a cab for less money.

The skid steer is better for dirt work, and the better visibility makes pallet work a breeze, but you don’t have to climb over a pile of firewood so the tractor is better fore things like moving firewood, unless it’s already palletized.

The box blade is nice for the driveway.

Do get the hydrostatic drivetrain.


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 28, 2018)

I had originally thought about cheaping out and not getting they hydrostatic but for mowing and stoning my driveway it's probably better to spend the extra money. Maybe the wife and kids will be able to use it too.


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 28, 2018)

Unless you're doing field work, go hydro. 

sent from a field


----------



## rwoods (Mar 28, 2018)

Page twelve and the discussion continues - so here are my two cents: If you are mowing a large yard with a tractor, you will wish for a zero turn. If you are mowing around your house or beds or trees, a compact tractor leaves much to be desired. You can’t do much beyond mowing with a zero turn. If you are doing tractor work, you will probably wish for one bigger than you have. Reconcile yourself to those regrets and buy accordingly. Personally if I could have only one I would lean towards a compact over a subcompact. Rear discharge finish mower over a belly mower or a side discharge. Hydro over gear for mowing.

Though the powers that be may frown on multiple machines or used machines, do your math. In my market, a nice finish mower is encroaching on the cost of a good used zero turn. You can forget about value retention on a finish mower. A compact tractor with a loader holds better value than farm tractors and lawn mowers. A compact tractor without a loader not so much so.

As to brand selection demo or rent first. Years ago the biggest difference I noted on compacts was the hydraulics. Probably doesn’t matter much with just a loader, but makes a big difference if you run a backhoe. Also shop prices of the brands. Deere get rapped for price, but when I shopped 20 to 28 hp tractors for my father years ago, the Kubotas were significantly higher in my area. He ended up buying a Kubota in his area due to a good servicing dealer. Don’t know who has the better buy now here much less in NY.

If you are buying used check for the usual of the model you are considering. Every tractor has some reoccurring issue. In my family’s experience the hydro Kubotas have had overheating issues and the stateside Deeres have plastic panels that disintegrate in the sun. If you like spending money price the cost of replacing a clutch in a Japanese Deere or the cost of replacing about anything inside a stateside Deere transmission. I am not picking on Deere (in fact Deere is my favorite) - I just know these repairs are expensive. Other makes may be as much or higher. You just need to consider these kind of things, especially when buying used.

Ron


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 28, 2018)

I understand the bigger is better with a tractor but physical size is the reason I'm looking at the smaller compact tractor. I have a lot of tasks I'd like to accomplish that require a tractor in tight spaces. As for impliments I won't buy a back hoe because that will sit more than be used. I don't have any brush hogging to do. I only really need a loader and a larger mower in a smaller physical size tractor. I have a roto tiller for the garden and 2 plows for the driveway. I'm only on 5 acres if I had 40 my decision would be a lot different.


----------



## rwoods (Mar 28, 2018)

I mow between 3 to 4 acres in the open. Started with a 6’ rear discharge on a 30 hp gear tractor. Used a 25hp zero turn with a 5’ deck for a month while tractor was in the shop. It would do it in 2/3 the time. I moved up to a 7’ rear discharge but still slower than the zero turn. I mow around the house with a 44” lawn tractor. If I were to do it over, I would have bought the zero turn for a couple of grand less than the lawn tractor and bought a compact tractor and loader just for tractor purposes. 

You know your situation better than anyone. Go demo what you think you want and go from there.

Ron


----------



## CaseyForrest (Mar 28, 2018)

If you go with the B series bota, I have a 60" mid mount deck that's only got 2 years on it. Ill save ya some coin...


----------



## Mustang71 (Mar 28, 2018)

I enjoy cutting grass and the time to myself. All i want is to make it a Friday night thing and not a Friday night and Saturday thing. Shave an hour off cutting time and I would be happy. Maybe not even an hour. When I had one kid it was ok I could now the lawn with him on Saturday but now I have 2. I agree a decent zero turn is the way to go but I don't want one lol. I like to ride the mower at 5mph drink my beverage and smoke a cigar and listen to my old country music. I just want to cover more ground while cutting.


----------



## Sterling Bronemann (Apr 8, 2018)

I tell ya what guys.....something to seriously consider would be an X7xx John Deere as well. I know Deere does not make a loader for them anymore, but CTC does as well as a few others. I currently have a X738(27 HP, 4wd, 54" deck) and it's absolutely amazing for doing lots of different chores. It is a great mowing machine, very nimble, and can drag logs out of anywhere ya need it to. I also have a 54" plow for it for moving snow. They are very versatile with the ability for a 3 point on the rear as well as a 540 PTO.


----------



## DSW (Jun 14, 2018)

My needs/mind has changed a bit.

I've been watching used Kubota compacts hard. Good to great deals sell in under a week. No two ways about it. I wasn't so sure about the pricing originally, I felt they were good deals, after watching them a bit, now I'm pretty dialed in on their pricing and they go extremely quick. 
What I've realized is aside from the great deals, the standard quality used price is not that much lower than new, well if you're going to go new you might as well go compact not sub compact. Essentially you start out shopping for a tinker tractor in good condition for $6k and all roads lead to 20 grand. 

20 grand is a chunk of change.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jun 14, 2018)

I'm going to buy new and compact. I don't have the cash for used and all the used compact tractors I see around here don't have the mower deck and are still around 15k. I don't have the cash to buy one without a loan. I'm working on a good down payment this summer and hopefully in the spring I can purchase a new tractor with a good interest rate and cheap monthly payments.


----------



## DSW (Jun 14, 2018)

I'm really leaning towards a B2650 right now.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jun 14, 2018)

I haven't started looking at dealers yet but I have looked at county fairs over the last few years. I think I would buy kubota over John deere. Mahindra is more expensive than both of them around here. I'm going to check out the Ls dealer since they made new Holland for a long time.


----------



## Huskybill (Jun 14, 2018)

I started building a front end loader, backhoe using a 2wd int154 cub loboy. I got as far as boxing the front frame. Then I got prostate cancer. I’m ok it’s been six years time to get back at the fel/backhoe again. I’m thinking no loan to pay when my work is done.

I use older cub cadets for tilling, mowing, pulling a trailer. I have three int154 cubs besides a farmall cub with six cub cadets.


----------



## Justsaws (Jun 19, 2018)

I own Kubota BXs, very nice machines. I recommend going to the dealers and getting the dealer price, it is better than the websites and the financing packages are pretty decent.

Never found a used one that was a good enough deal not to purchase a new one. Looked for years.

Comments on expectations...
They are small light duty machines. The front end loader full of mulch, compost or gravel is easy, full of wet clay it is maxed out. If you get the front end loader get the quick attach. If you cannot afford the front end loader now, but think you might want one later get the hyrodrolics installed from the factory on a new unit. Much cheaper than adding them on later. The loader mechanics bolts on, hydro would require removing parts for the install.

Pallet forks, not much grunt but handy enough to own. Use them more than I thought I would. Will not move a pallet cubed with firewood, not even close. Will move hazelnut bushes with root ball around 30” diameter 12” deep with standing brush approx 5’ tall right over to the backhoe dug hole. 10 cinder blocks, [email protected]”x6”x8’ rough treated posts, etc.. Not huge weight potential, but better than doing it by hand.

Front end loader and backhoe are good digging tools. Handy to have, save lots of time, wear and tear on the aging body that gets sore faster and stays tired longer.

If you get the backhoe, get the thumb, very handy with stumps, rocks, etc.. Backhoe is handy for moving brush around, can carry way larger pile than the grapple that goes on the front end loader.

The BX are mowing machines. Grass catcher works good. Heavy on the ground if you have concerns about soil compaction. R4 tires will leave track marks, tear up soft ground.

Bought one, liked it enough to buy a second one. Used both today. Only drawback, using the tractor is not exercise, so you might gain some weight. Side effect, endless list of projects and chores gets longer because capability improved.


----------



## Justsaws (Jun 19, 2018)

Wanted to add some more about the backhoe.

If you think that you would ever want it then you need to purchase the backhoe model of BX. The backhoe attaches to the frame and is powered by the hydro, it is not mounted to the 3point in any way and does not involve the pto. 

The BX models sold without the backhoe from the factory do not have the frame mount and reinforcing to mount the backhoe. The backhoe can toss the tractor around a bit. With the extra steel on the backhoe model it is heavier and much more ridgid, both are not ideal for mowing.

It is fairly easy to mount and unmount but not convenient. Personally I found the backhoe easier to deal with than the mower deck. 

Using the backhoe and FEL with the belly mower is doable but seriously cuts down on ground clearance and maneuverability. Would not recommend.

Mowing with the backhoe and FEL is ridiculous. Mowing with just the FEL is a pain. Both these setups tear up the grass way more than without.


----------



## CentaurG2 (Jun 19, 2018)

Anyone own a Kubota B21? I was toying with the idea of purchasing one and down sizing some other equipment that is underutilized.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jun 19, 2018)

As cool as a backhoe sounds I can't justify spending the money on one.

So why do so many choose kabota over all the others?


----------



## NSMaple1 (Jun 19, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> As cool as a backhoe sounds I can't justify spending the money on one.
> 
> So why do so many choose kabota over all the others?



Value. Dependability. Service network. History.


----------



## Justsaws (Jun 19, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> As cool as a backhoe sounds I can't justify spending the money on one.
> 
> So why do so many choose kabota over all the others?



I preferred the overall size and layout of the Kubota versus John Deere and New Holland. The other brands were to far away for me to be interested, I did go and look at Massey and a couple others. No reason for the inconvenience of a distant dealer.

Price differences between brands was insignificant.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jun 20, 2018)

I do like that they have the B series and the L series. Seems like they have built separate tractors for the field and grass cutting unlike all the others who offer 1 compact tractor for both. I want a nice grass cutting tractor with a FEL not a farm tractor with a mower deck.


----------



## kodiak (Jun 20, 2018)

I bought a new BX2350 in 2007 and have probably 1,100 hours on it now. It was in the shop shortly after delivery for a hydraulic leak caused during set up. It hasn’t been in the shop since then.

It has a 60” MMM, loader and front blower. I’ve also ran a 60” 3PH blower on it but got tired of the stiff neck. 

The loader can be mounted or unmounted in less than 2 minutes.

The BX series are more of an “estate” tractor and while they can do a lot of things, you need to understand their limitations. 

This machine is one of the best purchases I’ve made and I suffer from chronic buyer’s remorse.


----------



## Justsaws (Jun 20, 2018)

You get more capability (bigger hydro output) with the b series, it is taller and wider. The 3 point control can lower the implement to the same height with the lever selector. The 3 point on the bx does not have that function. You just eyeball it. 

I preferred the lower center of gravity on the smaller bx series, I would have enjoyed more capability but the b series tractor just did not fit the established aspects of the property.

B series tractors are easier to find used, sometimes even seem to be a good deal.


----------



## U&A (Jun 20, 2018)

With tractors,

IMO, get the biggest one you can afford within reason. 

You will almost never complain about haveing to much capability.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jun 20, 2018)

U&A said:


> With tractors,
> 
> IMO, get the biggest one you can afford within reason.
> 
> You will almost never complain about haveing to much capability.



I agree with that but my property lay out limits the size of the tractor too. That's y I think a small compact will work best for me. The sub compact would be fine but I'm making an investment on something I plan to have for the next 20+ years so I don't want to wish I bought a compact over a sub compact in 5 years. I think with the mower deck and FEL they are pretty close in price. My other thing is if I buy some more property some where down the road in life I might have to do some clearing or brush hogging or whatever else and I don't want to have to buy a bigger tractor at that point.


----------



## fields_mj (Jun 20, 2018)

Late to the party but here's my recommendation. It's what I've done, and has worked out well. Buy a used comercomme grade ZTR for the yard. Expect to pay $5k for that. Forget mowing the yard with anything you'd be able to drag logs with. You will need loaded ag tires to make the tractor work, and those are hard on a yard, especially in the spring.

Then buy the biggest used tractor you can get. $10k will get you a late 80s early 90s (pre EPA crap when most companies still built good machines) 25-35hp 4wd tractor with a loader in really good shape and at least one other implement (bush hog, tiller, box blade). If you're patient and know what to look for, you can get a 4wd tractor with a loader for $5-$7k or a 2wd unit for half that. For what its worth, the cost of shipping one is around $600.

A couple of things I will say about buying a used tractor. Make sure it was produced for several years so that parts will be available, and make sure it already had the type of tires you want on it even if they are heavily worn. Tires are expensive, but not as expensive as the rims you need if you're swapping from turf tires. 

As far as compact vs sub compact, get the biggest thing that will fit into the places you want to go, the find a used trailer (another $3k) big enough to haul it and a bush hog. 

Either way, you can do a lot with a $20k budget unless you insist on buying new. Then you just have to pay the stupid tax and move on.


----------



## U&A (Jun 20, 2018)

U&A said:


> With tractors,
> 
> IMO, get the biggest one you can afford within reason.
> 
> You will almost never complain about haveing to much capability.




^^
This is still my opinion when buying a tractor.

But I thought I would add the perspective of somebody that is borderline in need of one. Over the years I have accumulated the small power equipment such as a ZTR, snowblower, Rototiller. all of those kinds of things that could be attachments for tractor. Every year I have projects that need a tractor for sure and I cannot do them without one or the attatchments that come with it. For all of those projects I wait to do a few of them at once and rent a tractor localy. I usually end up renting a bobcat or a tractor 3 times a year and work with it for 2-3 days non stop with little sleep.

Most everything else that I do that could be done with the tractor I do by hand ...hard labor. Im young and still have the energy to do it all by myself. I have 20 acres of woods and all of my wood gathering to heat our house is done with just my saw my hand pullwagon that The bucked logs come out of the woods with and my axe.

I completely understand this is not an option or choice for everybody. If I could do it again I would hold off as long as possible and buy one piece of equipment to do everything. ..... tractor.... I’d much rather spend time maintaining one thing extremely well versus trying to maintain a bunch of individual small power equipment things.


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Jun 20, 2018)

I had a Kubota BX2660 with a 4' bucket, 60" belly mower, 48" tiller, potato hiller, potato digger, 12" single bottom plow, 3ph carryall and I even built a set of disk harrows for it. It was a fantastic wheelbarrow with the loader. The carryall was great for bringing firewood up to the house from the wood shed. Marvelous mower with that 25.5hp diesel. You might go too fast and leave uncut grass behind you but the engine would never change tone. As for the rest of it, well, it isn't a tractor. It didn't have enough ground clearance to dig potatoes once you hilled them. It would plow, but the low gear was painfully slow, high gear was too high for plowing, and the ground clearance issue left the belly scrubbing the edge of the furrow. The little subcompact tiller was built light but that was its downfall. It was too light to get very deep. Forget tilling unless you plowed first. It didn't dig at all. Second, even if you did plow, it still didn't have the weight to get into the soil. The first 4" would be powder but deeper wasn't happening. Another problem was the power steering. The hydraulics were down at ground level between the front tires. I had sticks pop up and tear hydraulic lines. Another design issue was that the transmission cooling fan was mounted around the driveshaft just forward of the transmission. It was plastic and unguarded. Sticks were famous for poking up and taking the fan blades off which resulted in an overheated transmission. Luckily, replacing that inexpensive piece of plastic was so easy. Since the drive shaft was one piece, all you had to do is take the engine mounting bolts out, disassemble anything in the way that would keep the engine from moving forward (radiator shroud and who knows what else) and move the engine forward to get the drive shaft out. If it had been a telescopic driveshaft, you could have just taken one end loose and collapsed it a bit to replace the fan. There was a guy on a tractor forum that was printing two piece fan halves that you could bolt on without taking the driveshaft out. There was talk of custom making a steel fan stout enough that it would just chip any unlucky stick that made it up there.

Bottom line is if you need a landscape maintenance machine for mowing in areas that need 4wd, hauling mulch and bags of top soil and the like (the bucket did a great job of stripping sod off) then the subcompact tractors are just the trick. If you need a tractor, buy a tractor.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jun 20, 2018)

Haywire Haywood said:


> I had a Kubota BX2660 with a 4' bucket, 60" belly mower, 48" tiller, potato hiller, potato digger, 12" single bottom plow, 3ph carryall and I even built a set of disk harrows for it. It was a fantastic wheelbarrow with the loader. The carryall was great for bringing firewood up to the house from the wood shed. Marvelous mower with that 25.5hp diesel. You might go too fast and leave uncut grass behind you but the engine would never change tone. As for the rest of it, well, it isn't a tractor. It didn't have enough ground clearance to dig potatoes once you hilled them. It would plow, but the low gear was painfully slow, high gear was too high for plowing, and the ground clearance issue left the belly scrubbing the edge of the furrow. The little subcompact tiller was built light but that was its downfall. It was too light to get very deep. Forget tilling unless you plowed first. It didn't dig at all. Second, even if you did plow, it still didn't have the weight to get into the soil. The first 4" would be powder but deeper wasn't happening. Another problem was the power steering. The hydraulics were down at ground level between the front tires. I had sticks pop up and tear hydraulic lines. Another design issue was that the transmission cooling fan was mounted around the driveshaft just forward of the transmission. It was plastic and unguarded. Sticks were famous for poking up and taking the fan blades off which resulted in an overheated transmission. Luckily, replacing that inexpensive piece of plastic was so easy. Since the drive shaft was one piece, all you had to do is take the engine mounting bolts out, disassemble anything in the way that would keep the engine from moving forward (radiator shroud and who knows what else) and move the engine forward to get the drive shaft out. If it had been a telescopic driveshaft, you could have just taken one end loose and collapsed it a bit to replace the fan. There was a guy on a tractor forum that was printing two piece fan halves that you could bolt on without taking the driveshaft out. There was talk of custom making a steel fan stout enough that it would just chip any unlucky stick that made it up there.
> 
> Bottom line is if you need a landscape maintenance machine for mowing in areas that need 4wd, hauling mulch and bags of top soil and the like (the bucket did a great job of stripping sod off) then the subcompact tractors are just the trick. If you need a tractor, buy a tractor.



Yes just the property maintenance stuff no farming. My garden is to small for a tractor I have a rototiller. I just don't want to hit the limit of a sub compact doing whatever around the house when I could have had a compact for a few dollars more.


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Jun 20, 2018)

If it's just property maintenance and you really don't plan to use it for a garden tractor, then get the subcompact with a bucket and throw away your wheelbarrow. Awesome little machines. I would make or buy a counterweight for the 3pt hitch so if you end up moving heavy stuff like gravel, or wet dirt/sand with the bucket, you aren't so front heavy and end up tipping forward. I had a counterweight that was 200 or 300lbs that I put on for ballast occasionally, usually for moving buckets of landscape rock for the ex-wife. Wet manure for the garden is also amazingly heavy.


----------



## fields_mj (Jun 20, 2018)

For what it's worth, this is what I'm using. It's a 1983 Ford 1710. The tires are filled with one set of weights on. The log is green (wet) locust about 2' across, 7' long, and weighs just over 1,000 lbs, and it's all I can do to move the log on level ground without loosing traction on the rear end. Admittedly, this is a pretty big log, but I wouldn't spend money on anything much smaller for firewood.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jun 20, 2018)

That's what I stole from work a month or so ago to stone my driveway. It was the small 80s Ford I think a 1710. It did a great job but was real tippy with the loader. But that physical size tractor was a good fit for me. But hydrostatic would have been great.

My ex's dad had a 2 family John deere and he made a counter weight for it with concrete, it looked like a block, which is what I plan on doing.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jun 20, 2018)

Haywire Haywood said:


> If it's just property maintenance and you really don't plan to use it for a garden tractor, then get the subcompact with a bucket and throw away your wheelbarrow. Awesome little machines. I would make or buy a counterweight for the 3pt hitch so if you end up moving heavy stuff like gravel, or wet dirt/sand with the bucket, you aren't so front heavy and end up tipping forward. I had a counterweight that was 200 or 300lbs that I put on for ballast occasionally, usually for moving buckets of landscape rock for the ex-wife. Wet manure for the garden is also amazingly heavy.



And I agree that a sub compact would be perfect for my needs but then I ask myself is there any reason not to spend the little bit extra money and get a compact tractor. No one has said so far that buying a compact over a sub compact was a mistake.


----------



## Justsaws (Jun 20, 2018)

As long as it fits in the yard and under any overhanging obstructions I would go with the b series. The width, turning radius and height ruled the b series out for me. Lots of good machines in that size of tractor both new and used, it is a whole different can of worms.


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Jun 20, 2018)

The only thing that might get old is driving a comparatively large compact tractor every week to mow the lawn, especially if you have anything tight to mow around. If your yard is open and uncluttered, no problem. After owning the BX, I said that if I were to do it again, I would step up to a B, the first actual tractor frame, but at the time I was missing the ground clearance and trying to use the BX as a small tractor.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jun 20, 2018)

Haywire Haywood said:


> The only thing that might get old is driving a comparatively large compact tractor every week to mow the lawn, especially if you have anything tight to mow around. If your yard is open and uncluttered, no problem. After owning the BX, I said that if I were to do it again, I would step up to a B, the first actual tractor frame, but at the time I was missing the ground clearance and trying to use the BX as a small tractor.



My wife used the rider for the first time today and mowed the whole lawn. About 3 hours of her time while I was at work and she said she loved it. I used to like it but I have to much to do and to little time so I figure I'll end up letting her mow the lawn when I'm tired of doing it with a tractor. 

I bought a dewalt 20v trimmer so she could trim and haven't trimmed grass since. She does it every time. Now if I could get her to cut and split wood...


----------



## fields_mj (Jun 21, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> That's what I stole from work a month or so ago to stone my driveway. It was the small 80s Ford I think a 1710. It did a great job but was real tippy with the loader. But that physical size tractor was a good fit for me. But hydrostatic would have been great.
> 
> My ex's dad had a 2 family John deere and he made a counter weight for it with concrete, it looked like a block, which is what I plan on doing.




Use a bucket or a small barrel as a form for that concrete weight. That way, if you don't have equipment available, you can still roll it around by hand when you need to move it.


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Jun 21, 2018)

I used a metal military rocket box and filled it will wheel weights. Welded reinforcement patches on the sides for the 3ph studs to bolt through. What I had wouldn't be enough by far for a real tractor though.


----------



## rancher2 (Jun 21, 2018)

I would go with a compact with a loader, front wheel assist and would make sure if you buy used that it is new enough to to have hydrostatic drive. I have a agco that I run a 60 gallon sprayer on spot spraying in and around fields and the hydo trans and front assist makes that tractor. I use that tractor so much on the farm I sold my gator to a friend that wanted it. I do have a mower for mine but we have a grasshopper so the mower never gets used. I bought it used in 2005 at a farm sale the first owner only mowed with it. It has been a great tractor with only regular maintenance. I have put 1500 hours on it since I bought it.


----------



## DSW (Jun 28, 2018)

Around here 10k won't get you 4wd, a loader, and any size bigger than a lawnmower. It just won't.

And this is farming country with a low cost of living.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jun 28, 2018)

Same here. For 6 grand you can get something from the 60s and for 15 you can get a used sub compact with no deck. A tractor around here is the one in the field or the one driving down the road to the field not something in someone's yard doing work. New seems the only logical way to go.


----------



## DSW (Jun 28, 2018)

I shouldn't say it's impossible but it's not common. It'd have to be a deal. 

I saw a spotless one owner bx go for $6500. Babied, bucket looked new, turfs, with an extra set of ags already mounted on a set of wheels, new as well, manuals, etc..... Sold in a day or two. 

That's a deal price. $9k, high hours, lots of wear, bald tires. That's the going rate I see. 

Just using the subcompact as an example.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jun 29, 2018)

There's a 95 John deere 855 on cl with the loader and mower deck with 2100 hours for 8 grand. Then there's a 80s ford with no deck for 8500. New seems like the best option to me.


----------



## Justsaws (Jun 30, 2018)

Couple of observations about Kubotas bx line.

The drive over deck looks like a pain to deal with. I did not get one so I cannot comment on actually using one however it looked poorly designed and implemented. The John Deere deck system looked better.

If you are considering the Bx1880 versus the 2380 look it over in detail. The seats are different, the 1880 seat is rough.
Overall sizes of things are different. 

If you finance the tractor they will ask about insurance, you will need to provide insurance information to them if you do not purchase the insurance through the dealer. Talk to your insurance company before going to the dealer.

They are selling a ton of equipment this year.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jun 30, 2018)

So if I have home owners insurance and the tractor never leaves the property is that enough?

I think the bx1880 is under powered I could be wrong but I'd like at least 23hp. But I know that's the tractor they are pushing this year.


----------



## Justsaws (Jun 30, 2018)

You would need to check with you insurance company and you or they will most likely have to supply some sort of proof of coverage in order to secure Kubota financing. Many home owners policies will not cover the tractor and an additional policy rider is written. The cost of that rider can vary quite a bit. The spread sheet for kubotas insurance costs per thousand dollars financed is in the fine print on thier website and sale advertisements.


----------



## CaseyForrest (Jun 30, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> So if I have home owners insurance and the tractor never leaves the property is that enough?
> 
> I think the bx1880 is under powered I could be wrong but I'd like at least 23hp. But I know that's the tractor they are pushing this year.


Kubota finance is going to want to see the tractor and implements listed specifically on your HO policy. Yes you are generally limited as to the scope of use, but that's specific to your policy. 

Get the insurance though Kubota. It covers the tractor anywhere no matter who's using it. The only thing it doesn't cover is wear items. Oil, filters, blades. Its not that expensive either I have my tractor on our HO policy, but I opted for the kubota insurance on the recently purchased Z726. $10 a month. 

sent from a field


----------



## Mustang71 (Jun 30, 2018)

If its 10 dollars a month or something like that it's fine. I have Allstate insurance so they might cover something like that being a big company. 

This is something I was not aware of but is good to know. 

My plan is to look at the cheaper Korean tractors and kubota and go from there. I always thought John deere was everyones favorite but from what I see kubota seems to be more desirable. I dont think I'll buy a deere because you are paying for a name and I'm not sure the quality is what it was back in the 90s and I dont want a plastic hood.


----------



## CaseyForrest (Jul 1, 2018)

The insurance is based on the total purchase price. So you'll be a bit higher on a tractor. 

Look into what both options cover. I hear the kubota insurance is a much better option than a rider on your homeowners. There aren't near the stipulations to get something covered.


sent from a field


----------



## Ryan'smilling (Jul 1, 2018)

The guys on tractorbynet seem to be generally very pleased by Kubota's insurance (KTAC). Especially the guys with cabs that need to replace broken doors and windows.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jul 1, 2018)

I googled it a bit yesterday and it seems that the KTAC probably covers a lot more that the homeowners. I'm sure the home owners would cover a total loss but if I do some good damage to it they wouldn't help me.

Is this just kubota or do other brands require insurance when you finance?


----------



## NSMaple1 (Jul 1, 2018)

I'm pretty sure that anything that is financed needs to be insured.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jul 1, 2018)

NSMaple1 said:


> I'm pretty sure that anything that is financed needs to be insured.



Yea idk I've only financed a suv and stuff from best buy or home depot. The suv needed full coverage, stuff from stores does not need anything so I had no idea. I paid cash for my house so insurance didn't matter.

I figured the tractor was covered by the homeowners insurance like all my other stuff is.


----------



## Justsaws (Jul 2, 2018)

The problem with home owners insurance is it rarely involves enough coverage value on specific items to be useful in securing a loan, along with the company issuing the loan wanting in writing that the insurance actually covers the item in question, let alone the value of it for the duration of the loan.

Lots of folks have expensive tools having never looked to see what the total value of coverage included in the home owners policy for tools, let alone deductibles and the way it is payed out. A $15000.00 tractor might only have $5,000.00 worth of coverage on a typical home owners policy, before the deductible, simply because it is defined as a lawn care tool. If the structure the $15000.00 tractor is stored in burns down that $5,000.00 covers all lawn care tools damaged in the fire, not just the tractor.


----------



## sunfish (Jul 4, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> My plan is to look at the cheaper Korean tractors and kubota and go from there. I always thought John deere was everyones favorite but from what I see kubota seems to be more desirable. I dont think I'll buy a deere because you are paying for a name and I'm not sure the quality is what it was back in the 90s and I dont want a plastic hood.


I've been messing with smallish tractors since the early 80s' & Kubota is top quality! I've had old John Deere guys tell me with the newer rigs Kubota is a better tractor. We have a 35 year old L3750DT that has been beat to death, but still goin strong. & a newer L3800DT that I love!


----------



## Mustang71 (Jul 4, 2018)

My local new Holland dealer has a MF 1705 for sale its 2 years old with 400 hours. Loader and mower deck and r4 tires for 11500. It's making me re think my decision now. At that price I could get an almost new tractor with everything I need. It's a sub compact but half the price of the compact. It would be a lot more affordable.


----------



## DSW (Jul 4, 2018)

If it's between a subcompact and a compact, given what you've said I'd actually lean towards a sub.

A Bx type of tractor makes a great mower. Skidding firewood size logs, lifting rounds, easily within it's abilities. Glorified wheelbarrow...check. 

Won't dig ponds and skid big timber but anything that would won't mow.

In your situation I would go sub but I understand your point about spending a bit more if you're locking into a loan.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jul 4, 2018)

Yea idk even a brand new koiti sub is 7 grand cheaper than a compact and idk if I can justify the extra 7 grand. I was thinking about it as I was mowing the lawn today and I mow under a lot of trees and around a lot of things.

If I could get a slightly used sub, which is all I need, for 12 grand less than a new compact I think I would be happy. I can still have a loader and a box blade or snow plow or blower. But if the thing is to big to mow them I'm paying on a sitting machine and back to the old rider.

And the wife said I couldn't mow around stuff with a big tractor.


----------



## DSW (Jul 5, 2018)

Another thing I've noticed, people complain about them being tinker toys, glorified lawn mowers, and owned by yuppies like its a bad thing.

They go quick but I come across some Bx's that are spotless. You can tell they've never been worked. As a buyer in the used market that's a beautiful thing. Find a used skidsteer that looks like it could sit on the showroom floor. They aren't out there, every guy in the crew has had his go with em. This coming from a skidsteer fan.


----------



## chipper1 (Jul 5, 2018)

sunfish said:


> a newer L3800DT that I love!


I have the same tractor with the hydro trans, great machine, and it's all orange .


----------



## Mustang71 (Jul 6, 2018)

DSW said:


> Another thing I've noticed, people complain about them being tinker toys, glorified lawn mowers, and owned by yuppies like its a bad thing.
> 
> They go quick but I come across some Bx's that are spotless. You can tell they've never been worked. As a buyer in the used market that's a beautiful thing. Find a used skidsteer that looks like it could sit on the showroom floor. They aren't out there, every guy in the crew has had his go with em. This coming from a skidsteer fan.



The first part of this quote is exactly what I fear about buying a sub compact. I had the large old tractor that could lift anything and lift the front of the tractor off the ground. It was to big and heavy for my property. I was looking at the bx2380 specs last night and they seem to have the most ground clearance which helps me feel more like it's a tractor and not a riding lawn mower.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jul 6, 2018)

Realistically whatever I buy is going to wear a mower deck 80 percent of its life. So is it worth it to spend the extra on a compact to cut grass most of the time...idk lol.


----------



## chipper1 (Jul 6, 2018)

Tractors are like saws, there is no perfect one for ever job.
Just buy something, you'll know real quick whether you need to buy a different one lol.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jul 6, 2018)

So to do it right I need multiple tractors lol.


----------



## chipper1 (Jul 6, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> So to do it right I need multiple tractors lol.


Well at least a tractor and a mower. 
Most times when we try to make a piece of equipment do the job another piece of equipment should we end up disappointed.
You really need to get on the tractor forums and find someone who has the machines your looking at and try them out to get the best feel for what will work for you.
If you go with the mowing tractor don't forget to get a 3pt mounted backhoe , this is a joke, don't do that!


----------



## sunfish (Jul 6, 2018)

chipper1 said:


> Tractors are like saws, there is no perfect one for ever job.
> Just buy something, you'll know real quick whether you need to buy a different one lol.


True True


----------



## Justsaws (Jul 6, 2018)

The zero percent offers are not limited to the MSRP in any way. None of the tractor brands were selling the tractors at MSRP, there was always a discount. The offers can be used in conjunction with the implement offers and can include multiple implements or accessories. The deals seem to be limited to OEM branded implements in some cases but not all. Not all of the brands/dealers had branded implements or much variety of type in some cases.

The BX 2380 is a great mower. I would not expect it to pull much tree out of the woods, especially on hills as it is a fairly light front end.

With the Kubota branded 4’ box blade mounted to the 3 point on the 2380 without a FEL the front end will barely float. The box blade weighs 385 pounds, I do not remember the recommended front weight. The recommended front weight for the grass catcher is 110 pounds.

The Kubota implements are now made by Landpride, painted orange with Kubotas name and a Landpride sticker.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jul 6, 2018)

I'm so confused at this point. I'm going to the county fair in a month or so and I'll sit on all of the John deeres and get a feel for the size I want. Then I have to find a price I like. The sub compact would be fine but it makes me feel like less of a man.


----------



## Justsaws (Jul 7, 2018)

I spent a loooong time looking at tractors before making the choice. Highly recommend physically getting on and off of them a couple of times before deciding.


----------



## fields_mj (Jul 17, 2018)

DSW said:


> I shouldn't say it's impossible but it's not common. It'd have to be a deal.
> 
> I saw a spotless one owner bx go for $6500. Babied, bucket looked new, turfs, with an extra set of ags already mounted on a set of wheels, new as well, manuals, etc..... Sold in a day or two.
> 
> ...



Below are the listings straight from Fredrick's web site. Add $4K for their recommended Koyker loader. All prices are for 4wd. I've found better prices in the used market over the years, but Fredricks serves as a good reference point for freshly rebuilt machines, and the cost is less than $15K. Far enough below $15K to buy a used commercial grade ZTR mower with what's left over. A ZTR will mow your yard in less than half the time of any "tractor" even if its wide open with nothing to mow around. There's only 2 things that will keep up or out mow them. One is a bat wing (which requires a larger tractor) and the other is a Kubota F series mower which cost as much as a new tractor, but WOW can they mow! Tractorhouse.com is another place I've gone to look over the years, but craigslist seems to have always produced the most results. Just have to watch out for the scams. 

*F20 *$6,999.00, 24 hp, 3 cylinder diesel, gear transmission with ROPS (roll over protective structure). Built in 1984 and 1985. Also available in powershift transmission (FX20 and FX20D). Uses a Koyker 80 loader.

*YM2420 *$7,999.00, 29 hp, 3 cylinder diesel, powershift transmission with ROPS (roll over protective structure). Built in 1982 and 1983. Available in 2WD and 4WD drive. Uses a Koyker 125 loader.

*YM2000B *$6,599.00, 24 hp, 2 cylinder diesel, gear transmission, with roll over protective structure. Built in 1979. Available in 2WD and 4WD. The 4WD model uses a Koyker 80 or 120 loader.

*YM2210 *$6,699.00, 26 hp, 2 cylinder diesel, powershift transmission, with roll over protective structure. Built in 1977 and 1978. Available in 2WD and 4WD. The 4WD model uses a Koyker 120 loader.

*YM2000 *$6,399.00, 24 hp, 2 cylinder diesel, gear transmission, with roll over protective structure. Built in 1977 and 1978. Available in 2WD and 4WD. The 4WD model uses a Koyker 80 or 120 loader.


----------



## Mustang71 (Jul 17, 2018)

I'm not looking to set speed records mowing I just want a bigger deck and a more reliable mower than any junk I have bought at a box store. I am looking at like new stuff now as well as new. After looking around I think I'm lowering my budget to around 15k.


----------



## alleyyooper (Jul 17, 2018)

I own a ZRT mower and no way on gods green earth I will ever go back to a tractor be it a lawn, garden, sub compact or compact tractor.
I like mowing lawns I make a bit of Jingle mowing about 30 acres a week. so it isn't a speed record I am trying to set but have time to make more jingle per day.
I don't spend a bunch of time going around objects like flower beds and trees and don't spend much time trimming with a string trimmer. A zrt will maneuver around that stuff.

I also would not want to use my ZRT to skid wood out of thick places to cut up and haul to thre house. I haver about 22 or 23 tractors to do that with.
Every one seems to think you need one of ther new compact or sub compacts to do jobs Farmers did for years with reagular full sized tractors. You can still buy those old style tractors today and work on them with a crecent wrench screw driver and not much more. Yoiu won't be having a berry brier bending a brake rod either on the old ones like the new stuff.


 Al


----------



## Mustang71 (Jul 17, 2018)

I get it and I had an old tractor but never used it. I dont think I need a real tractor for doing tractor tasks but I need a machine to maintain my 5 acres. Small scale loader work grass cutting and light duty pulling and hauling of stuff. The ability to get into spaces around the house and accomplish my tasks is more important than raw tractor power. That was the problem with my big tractor. 2wd was not fun with the loader either.


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 8, 2018)

Just an update for anyone who cares. I talked to a local dealer and as mentioned the 0 financing is not true. They offered 5.99 percent for 84 months and told me that they could do 0 if you wanted to add the interest to the price of the tractor because that's what the real deal is. So I was thinking if I can't get true zero financing then y not look at slightly used. From what I'm seeing there's a 2011 john deere 2320 with all the options I want minus the turf tires for 12900 with 300 hours. That would save me at least 5 grand financed and 2 years of payments for a little less than 200 a month with my down payment. So I may be looking at slightly used. Going to another county fair Monday to look at more tractors. I sat on the bx and it felt like a lawn tractor. No thanks. The plan is to buy a compact tractor in the spring.


----------



## rancher2 (Aug 9, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> Just an update for anyone who cares. I talked to a local dealer and as mentioned the 0 financing is not true. They offered 5.99 percent for 84 months and told me that they could do 0 if you wanted to add the interest to the price of the tractor because that's what the real deal is. So I was thinking if I can't get true zero financing then y not look at slightly used. From what I'm seeing there's a 2011 john deere 2025 with all the options I want minus the turf tires for 12900 with 300 hours. That would save me at least 5 grand financed and 2 years of payments for a little less than 200 a month with my down payment. So I may be looking at slightly used. Going to another county fair Monday to look at more tractors. I sat on the bx and it felt like a lawn tractor. No thanks. The plan is to buy a compact tractor in the spring.



I do think you be happier with a compact. I would look for a used one on acreage sale or one on craigslist if you have a banker you can work with and stay away from the dealer mark up if you can. It will take some looking and going to sales but the right deal is out there. We are pretty much green folks as far as our farm equipment goes but about 10 years ago I was at a farm sale looking at a 200 HP green tractor and came home with a Agco compact that sold for below market. It had 200 hours on it with a belly mower I bought it thinking I would resell it. Ten years and a thousand more hours later I use it a lot around the farm lots of spot spraying in the summer months don't use it too much for mowing. It has only needed one battery and oil changes no other issues I get a lot of grief from folks about it's not green but I love this this little handy tractor. It's my Gator,four wheeler utility machine. Good luck on the hunt.


----------



## sirbuildalot (Aug 9, 2018)

I'm not surprised about the zero percent, a bunch of us had that opinion earlier in this tread.

I'm currently looking into getting a new mower. I'm looking hard at the Gravely ZT HD52 with Kawasaki engine. Looks to be a high end residential/low end commercial unit. I'd look at a ZT for mowing and a used compact for the other tasks. You could prob get both and be way under your 15k budget. A good new ZT will run 4k-6k, and the decent used tractor, around the same, totaling only around 10k.


----------



## cre73 (Aug 9, 2018)

I have not read all the replies. I recently purchased a new Kubota B2601. I was straight forward and told the salesman I would be choosing the 0% financing. He supplied me with a quote. It was slightly higher than I wanted to spend. I started looking at LS tractors and made a deal on one and was in the middle of arranging financing and scheduling pickup. The Kubota salesman happened to email during this and asked if I was still interested. I made an offer 2500 under his quote, he quickly replied that they could make it work. I was truly shocked and somewhat disappointed because the quick acceptance of my offer made me feel like I left something on the table and could of got it for a little less.

Long story short even when choosing the financing there is room for negotiation.


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 9, 2018)

I thought with more value in a new tractor they would give you a better rate like a car loan but I guess that's not the case. I'm also not a fan of 84 month financing that's a lot of interest.

I did notice that used compact Deeres seem to be cheaper than used subcompact deeres and that kabota seems to bring a higher used price.

I was calculating hours in my head and I guess 300 hours over 7 years is pretty minimal use and probably close to what I would use.


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 9, 2018)

cre73 said:


> I have not read all the replies. I recently purchased a new Kubota B2601. I was straight forward and told the salesman I would be choosing the 0% financing. He supplied me with a quote. It was slightly higher than I wanted to spend. I started looking at LS tractors and made a deal on one and was in the middle of arranging financing and scheduling pickup. The Kubota salesman happened to email during this and asked if I was still interested. I made an offer 2500 under his quote, he quickly replied that they could make it work. I was truly shocked and somewhat disappointed because the quick acceptance of my offer made me feel like I left something on the table and could of got it for a little less.
> 
> Long story short even when choosing the financing there is room for negotiation.



I was talking to the ls dealer and the one thing I did not like was that he knows he sells tractors cheaper than everyone else. It was a nice tractor but it seemed like the price is the price.


----------



## Polish hammer (Aug 9, 2018)

I just bought an ls and I called 3 dealers 2 where exact same price the 3rd was 2000 cheaper n then dropped another 2900 exact same
Machine plus he added a few little things for me


----------



## cre73 (Aug 9, 2018)

Pretty much Kubota dropped the price close to what I was going to get a comparable LS. The deciding factor is the Kubota dealer is right here in town. I was going to drive to Arkansas to get the LS and then would not of had a local dealer for support.


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 9, 2018)

My ls dealer had the xj2025h on cl last month for 13800 and his fair pricing was 14500 then 2200 for the mower deck. So add tax of 8 percent on to that and it's getting up there in price. So I was thinking I could get a new ls for a good price but I'm not sure. Maybe at the dealership they would come down a bit but he was telling me how he beats prices on new Holland and case any day. He seemed like that was his selling point you get the same tractor for 5k less.

At that price I'll see what john deere and kabota say when I ask about their financing.


----------



## Polish hammer (Aug 9, 2018)

The xj2025h is 13250 south east Wisconsin just loaded I ended up with the n loader for 15 witout tax


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 9, 2018)

I would be happy with the whole package I want for 15. I'm trying to come up with about 3k cash to put down.


----------



## Justsaws (Aug 10, 2018)

Go to the websites for the tractors and use the build your function to get the manufacturers list price, keep it handy, and then ask the dealer to write you an estimate on the tractor with zero percent for 60 months. Have them include everything, insurance, tax, everything, have them break it down into monthly payment on paper. If they cannot do this walk away from a crappy dealer, this is a basic sales service. Compare the price from the website to the estimate, if the tractor brand does not list the list price then walk away from a crappy brand.

Depending on the brand if you do not need the tractor until the spring I was told to hit them up around January to early February and see what was availible from the previous year. Some of the older inventory at the larger dealers is aggressively priced supposedly.

The compacts around here at least are generally a better deal used as there are a crap ton of them availible compared to subcompacts.

New Holland’s compacts were the best deal used around here, probably the third most availible.


----------



## milkie62 (Aug 10, 2018)

I am in upstate NY and needed a 50 HP range tractor with bucket and 4wd since all my implements are for tractors in the Ford 800 series range. Everything used in the NE is high $$$$$. I started looking outside the box and getting a bit further west. Lo and behold I find a Kubota M6800 with a front bucket and only 317 hrs for almost $10k cheaper in Ohio than in my area. So I take the wife on an overnite trip to look at it. It was just as described and I bought it on the spot. The seller even knew a trucker that shipped it to me for only $600. The tractor is about 12-15 HP more than I actually needed but when it comes to snow it is a monster with the front and rear diff locks. best tractor for the money IMO. But way to big for a lawn. So in closing look further away than local and you may find something great for less money.


----------



## rancher2 (Aug 11, 2018)

milkie62 said:


> I am in upstate NY and needed a 50 HP range tractor with bucket and 4wd since all my implements are for tractors in the Ford 800 series range. Everything used in the NE is high $$$$$. I started looking outside the box and getting a bit further west. Lo and behold I find a Kubota M6800 with a front bucket and only 317 hrs for almost $10k cheaper in Ohio than in my area. So I take the wife on an overnite trip to look at it. It was just as described and I bought it on the spot. The seller even knew a trucker that shipped it to me for only $600. The tractor is about 12-15 HP more than I actually needed but when it comes to snow it is a monster with the front and rear diff locks. best tractor for the money IMO. But way to big for a lawn. So in closing look further away than local and you may find something great for less money.


You need to look out of your area for the deals. Trucking a piece of equipment is no big deal. I would look at the area's of the US that has lost there crops due to the dry weather folks are moving equipment to keep going and if a dealer had something on a lot in those areas you could get a deal.


----------



## DSW (Aug 11, 2018)

I was split between one "do it all machine" and two pieces of equipment as i mentioned earlier in this thread. I talked to a lot of guys selling used Kubotas and two dealerships. Meanwhile i never quit looking for a mower. After trying to purchase a commercial walk behind for nearly a year i finally contacted an adult who could communicate, seemed honest, had exactly what i wanted and for a fair price. Turns out he was honest and I couldn't be happier. 

Two things to mention, my yard isn't huge and i didn't currently own that great of a mower. I paid cash, my mowing time has been cut in half and I'm not shot for the day after I'm done. 

I'm still searching for my other piece of equipment, I've made an offer on a Dingo, laughable bit of money separating us but i set a budget and im not budging and he's probably in a similar mindset. (Having sold quite a few things, i would say it's a buyer's market in nearly anything and he probably should have accepted it, rather than risk holding it for too long but maybe im biased). At this point I'm still open to mini skidsteers, skidsteers, and tractors of various sizes with loaders. The mower being out of the way i don't feel i have to compromise or toe the line for that perfect size.

I'm not saying this is the only way, i could have easily went the other way, only you know your needs, and we all have different goals and jobs. I would definitely suggest weighing all options and especially trying them out. Even it you had to rent something for $200 bucks just to play around and mow your yard you'll gain some perspective.


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 11, 2018)

A nice commercial mower would be cool but I think the traditional riding mower fits me and my land scape better. It's hard to describe my property but it's basically 5 acres of mature woods that someone planted a house and yard in near the back of the property. Then there are other spots of grass. I have a 600 foot curvy stone driveway some field type areas and trails through the woods around the whole place. My concern with the sub compact is the ground clearance. I dont think a zero turn would work for me.


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 11, 2018)

Ok I built my 2301 which would be what I want and we are at 20ish thousand so with my 3k down and zero interest I would be at 202 a month great. I will try to get that. As for ls they told me it would be about 17k and then 5.99 for 84 months financing so I'm over the price of the kubota for a cheap tractor...

I watched a lot of YouTube videos and the kubota is the real deal. I would really like to work out a deal on one. John deere is expensive plastic and the ls dealer sucks. 

The ls dealer cuts out the middle man I was told... Ok for 16700 plus 8% tax and financing of 5.99 for 84 months I could buy a new Holland.


----------



## DSW (Aug 11, 2018)

Don't forget the 26 either.


----------



## cre73 (Aug 12, 2018)

I got the 2601 with ssqa loader and 60in MMM. For 17,500. Original quoted price was also a little over 20k.


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 13, 2018)

I would be happy with that price for a top quality tractor. If I could get a kubota for 17 to18 or a ls for 16 I would pay the extra. From all the YouTube videos i have been watching kubota seems like they go extra mile.


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 23, 2018)

Anyone have experience with the landpro dealership they sell john deere but advertise 3.9 financing on all used compact tractors. They are in NY OH and PA. I think I'm coming to a conclusion and since my real need is a nice mower with a loader for occasional use I think a bx would work. Land pro has used bx 2660s and 2370s for 12500 and I really dont want to spend 20k on a tractor. If I could finance 9k I would be happy. I would like 300 hours or less but there's a sweet bx 2660 with an extra set of r4 tires a soft cab and power bagger with 750 hours for 12500. The hours worry me though. It is probably 20 miles from my house I might look at it.


----------



## rancher2 (Aug 23, 2018)

I would find out who had it and check what the maintenance has been like on it. 750 isn't a lot of hours on that machine if it has had good care. I have 1,000 on a agco of that size and it has had zero problems.


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 23, 2018)

The loader has all the paint on the bucket and from the pictures it looks real clean. With 2 sets of tires and the bagger I would think it was used mainly for mowing. To me someone who buys turf tires and r4 tires probably cares about their lawn and maybe the equipment. It's a 2011 so that's like 100 hours a year I would probably do 40. I think used and maintained is better than rarely used and not maintained. 

I dont know that I'm ready to pull the trigger but it would save a lot of raking leaves for my wife and i like the extra set of tires.


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 23, 2018)

I was at the kubota dealer today checking out the bx tractors and I asked about the b2601. I would love a b2601 but I owe 12k on the wife's suv and my truck has 180k miles on it so I dont think spending 20k and financing for 84 months is the best decision when I would be fine spending 10 to 12 on a used sub compact that will fit my needs.


----------



## rancher2 (Aug 24, 2018)

There is always that balance on spending money. I would find out who had it most home owners aren't running a 100 hours a year. I would think a school or business had it. I do a lot of mowing with my zero turn at the farm and I average 75 hours a year this year has been wet and in Aug I still am mowing every five days. Over the years I have owned higher hour equipment and normally it works out. I do all my own repairs. As I have gotten older I will only buy higher hour equipment if it is a bargain. You will probably keep this tractor for a long time and with only putting 40 hours a year on it in 10 years it will be a lower hour tractor then.


----------



## Ryan'smilling (Aug 24, 2018)

750 hours wouldn't bother me a bit.


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 24, 2018)

My thinking is get a nice grass cutter with the little loader and if I need a bigger tractor some day I'll figure it out then. I need a new mower mine is shot and it 5 years old from home depot. So even if I do need a bigger tractor some day I'll still have a quality lawn mower.

If I mow 3 hours a week for 25 weeks a year that would be 75 hours and here it usually snows or is to cold 8 months a year.


----------



## rancher2 (Aug 24, 2018)

Mustang71
Are you shopping on Tractor House. There seems to be a fair amount of those last two models your are looking at on there with way less hours for about the same money. I don't know if you need two sets of tires or not. My R-4's don't seem to damage the lawn.


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 24, 2018)

I have not looked on tractor house. I dont need 2 sets of tires but it seemed like a cool added feature. That's y I'm not ready to go buy one today I'd like to find something I really want for the right price.


----------



## bowtechmadman (Aug 28, 2018)

I found your post about the Home Depot mower comment interesting. My wife just informed me that our lawn mower (John Deere GT275) was shot...she was really unhappy since as she said "it isn't that old". New belt on the power flow bagger took care of the reason it was "shot," and I also reminded her that it is kinda old since we bought it new in 1996.
Sorry to derail...I wouldn't worry about hours if they are under 1K. I have a Kubota 38hp that has nearly 2K but motor/trans./hydraulic pump/clutch were all replaced with OEM 50 hours ago. Tractor was worked but all the main components are like new...been very happy with it and paid just over 10.


----------



## rancher2 (Aug 28, 2018)

bowtechmadman said:


> I found your post about the Home Depot mower comment interesting. My wife just informed me that our lawn mower (John Deere GT275) was shot...she was really unhappy since as she said "it isn't that old". New belt on the power flow bagger took care of the reason it was "shot," and I also reminded her that it is kinda old since we bought it new in 1996.
> Sorry to derail...I wouldn't worry about hours if they are under 1K. I have a Kubota 38hp that has nearly 2K but motor/trans./hydraulic pump/clutch were all replaced with OEM 50 hours ago. Tractor was worked but all the main components are like new...been very happy with it and paid just over 10.



Just curious what had happen to the tractor that it needed that much work with that many hours? I wouldn't consider a couple K that many hours.


----------



## bowtechmadman (Aug 28, 2018)

2nd owner had a loan on it and destroyed it by running it out of engine oil/hyd. fluid on purpose after faulting on the loan. 3rd owner purchased from dealer after they rebuilt (dealer bought it from the bank). I purchased from him w/ 50 hours on it...he was going to a skid steer for his horse stables.


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 28, 2018)

I had to weld up the deck after 3 years and change both spindles. It's almost 5 years old now the front axle is twisted it and the transmission slips. Those home depot mowers aren't worth the 1500 dollars they cost.


----------



## bowtechmadman (Aug 28, 2018)

Wow...I've yet to change a spindle on my JD. A few belts/batteries, couple sets of battery cables, several sets of blades along with yearly oil/filter and one steering bar re-welded. Very impressed with the Kawasaki air cooled 18hp motor, and JD's build quality then. Trying to recall what I paid new but was in the 3-4k range. My wife flipped out when I spent that much when we had just purchased our home about 6 months prior, she has since relented and admitted that I did good since it has lasted so long.


----------



## sirbuildalot (Aug 28, 2018)

Considering most quality garden tractors, regardless of brand, cost several thousand dollars in the 70's and 80's, I cant understand why people buy as cheap as possible, spending $1,000-$1,500 for a new mower in 2018 and complain that they don't last like the old ones do.

No ****, Inflate the 6-8 grand a *good* mower cost in 1986 and spend *that* amount in 2018, if you expect similar performance.


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 28, 2018)

I tried to explain that to my dad. I told him if I were to get a new mower it would cost me 7 to 8 thousand dollars so I might as well get a tractor for not much more. He thought i was crazy. Well i could spend 1500 every few years or have something quality that lasts for 20+ years. I got my mower that I have now when I bought this house. My old craftsman stopped cutting so I went to home depot. I learned from that mistake.


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 28, 2018)

My thing with the hours is if I buy one with 300 hours then that's another 4 to 5 years I'll get out of it before I hit 750 hours. It might not be correct thinking and I know if its stored inside vs outside that makes a big difference. On the other end I dont want a 7 year old tractor with 100 hours on it because I want the tractor to be regularly used. It will be garage kept when I get one, since I dont have a mustang anymore, I have the space.


----------



## sunfish (Aug 28, 2018)

bowtechmadman said:


> Wow...I've yet to change a spindle on my JD. A few belts/batteries, couple sets of battery cables, several sets of blades along with yearly oil/filter and one steering bar re-welded. Very impressed with the Kawasaki air cooled 18hp motor, and JD's build quality then. Trying to recall what I paid new but was in the 3-4k range. My wife flipped out when I spent that much when we had just purchased our home about 6 months prior, she has since relented and admitted that I did good since it has lasted so long.


Today's JD mowers aren't the same as yours bought in 1996.


----------



## Mustang71 (Aug 28, 2018)

Even my green craftsman was built a lot better. The deck had been welded to many times to fix but the rest of it was still great and it didnt have a plastic transmission rear end like my ariens does. MTD builds them cheap now and owns all the box store models.


----------



## bowtechmadman (Aug 29, 2018)

Fortunately, not looking for a new one anytime soon. I picked another of the same model up cheap for parts and plan on keeping this one going for a few more years. We reduced how much we mow by about half with the addition of a pool and some "natural" landscaping.


----------



## sirbuildalot (Aug 29, 2018)

I wouldn't expect much from any mower purchased at Home Depot. I know someone who recently bought a new Simplicity Broadmoor and with the bagger it was $4,500. That's a lower end machine. Step up to a Conquest, or a Prestige and your talking more like $7,000-$9,000. A Legacy is going to be at least $11,000-$12,000. That's without a loader.

Point is quality costs money. The reason so many brands got bought out by companies like MTD, is that the average person cares about the initial cost more than anything else. They cater to these people. Just like all the stores that sell cheap crap like Harbor Freight. They don't look at life expectancy or features. Then the same people complain when it breaks down in a year or two.

Unless people start caring about quality and are willing to pay for it, things aren't going to change. You can have quality or cost. Can't have both.

Sad but true.


----------



## DSW (Sep 1, 2018)

Little Kubota diesel, well maintained, heck just not abused or ran dry, would go 3000 hours and probably still putt putt like new.


----------



## twigor (Sep 4, 2018)

I Just purchased a new Kubota BX1880 with mower and FEL and other upgrade options for $12800. Kubota is currently offering 0 financing for up to 84 months as well. I received many prices from dealers that were significantly higher. Watch to make sure the dealers are including all the incentives that are listed on the Kubota site (free mower with tractor, multiple implement incentive, etc) I found most dealers charge what the local market will bear and were not referencing or including factory incentives in their pricing work up. Not sure how they get away with it but they obviously do. Anxious to take delivery and put the sub compact to work at a new 3 acre build site.


----------



## CaseyForrest (Sep 4, 2018)

Kubota just dropped 0%.....


----------



## Mustang71 (Sep 4, 2018)

twigor said:


> I Just purchased a new Kubota BX1880 with mower and FEL and other upgrade options for $12800. Kubota is currently offering 0 financing for up to 84 months as well. I received many prices from dealers that were significantly higher. Watch to make sure the dealers are including all the incentives that are listed on the Kubota site (free mower with tractor, multiple implement incentive, etc) I found most dealers charge what the local market will bear and were not referencing or including factory incentives in their pricing work up. Not sure how they get away with it but they obviously do. Anxious to take delivery and put the sub compact to work at a new 3 acre build site.




Why did you buy the 1880 over the 2380 or 2680? It seemed like that was the model they were pushing this year. The dealer told me that the 2nd quarter of the year is the best time to buy. It seemed like a bx2680 and b2601 were pretty close in price. They told me there were incentives but it didnt seem like they did much for the price.


----------



## twigor (Sep 4, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> Why did you buy the 1880 over the 2380 or 2680? It seemed like that was the model they were pushing this year. The dealer told me that the 2nd quarter of the year is the best time to buy. It seemed like a bx2680 and b2601 were pretty close in price. They told me there were incentives but it didnt seem like they did much for the price.



I felt the 18hp would be adequate for my particular situation. Mostly mowing and light landscape work. The dealer included the larger industrial R4 tires so it really is the same tractor as the 2680 with the smaller diesel. I spoke to a couple 1870 owners who were pleased with the power. That said I would spend the extra $1200 for the BX 2680 if I had any perceived need for a more demanding work environment.


----------



## Mustang71 (Sep 4, 2018)

For loader work and maybe the 54 inch mower that would be good. I think the 60 inch is probably better with a bit more power.


----------



## Ryan'smilling (Sep 4, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> For loader work and maybe the 54 inch mower that would be good. I think the 60 inch is probably better with a bit more power.



It's hydrostatic right? You can always just go slower if you're short on power. Personally I'd rather have a bigger mower and a slower ground speed.


----------



## Justsaws (Sep 4, 2018)

There is a 4-5 “horsepower” difference in pto capability between the 1880 and the 2380, If the rear pto is going to be used, that is a big difference. The 2380 with a 54” deck and bagger will slow will drop 500 to 1000 rpm on the steepest part of the hills I mow. Flat ground or small inclines no issues, start climbing and It is noticeable fast.


----------



## Mustang71 (Sep 5, 2018)

I'm just thinking those times when the grass grows a lot in the spring and you could mow every 3 days the extra power might be good. Either way I dont want to buy less than a 22 hp tractor. I have used the 80s ford from work with 17hp and you would not know it only had 17hp when doing loader work or pulling stuff.


----------



## kodiak (Sep 6, 2018)

For the 18hp BX, you will run out of traction before power. That’s assuming you’re in low range. As mentioned above, the power difference will be noticed when using the PTO implements like the mower or snow blower.


----------



## Mustang71 (Sep 6, 2018)

That's y I figure i need at least 22hp for a 60 inch mower. I dont want to have issues in tall or wet grass and mowing will be about 80 percent of the tractors life unless I buy a snow blower. I was also looking at a bx worh the pto bagger so that with the mower deck probably needs more power to operate smoothly.


----------



## husqhawk8 (Sep 7, 2018)

I bought a JD 3038 E 18 months ago. 0% interest. Got the FEL, tandem trailer, 8" post hole digger, and tiller for 27k. Payment is under 450/month. This tractor is awesome. I use it for everything besides mowing. I financed a Husq commercial 61" zt 0% interest and would never mow with a regular mower again. The mower came with a husq 562xp and husq weedeater. Payment is 159/month. It was cheaper to get the mower, saw, and weedeater than the mower itself. 

The zero percent interest is great. I already owe less than what I could sell my tractor for while keeping all of the implements.

For car purchases the 0% interest isn't always the best deal. Many times you lose all of the rebates. Our last new car purchase was 2016 Ford Taurus. It was better for us to take the rebates and high Ford interest rate for 1 month. We than refinanced for low interest rate after the first month. The rebates were several thousand dollars which more than offset the interest paid vs the 0% interest route. 

My plan is to sell the 3038 and get a size bigger this fall or next year. My biggest issue with the tractor is its narrow wheel base. I have hilly land and it's stability with load leaves a lot to be desired. You can not get a belly mower for the 3038. 

I agree with others who recommend a ZT mower and a used tractor. I know that isn't what the OP wants to do. Good luck with your purchase. You can't really go wrong with any of the brands. I plan on getting another JD but will look into the other brands again. Last time the JD was the best deal for my needs and I have not been disappointed. It is an awesome machine that I work hard.


----------



## sbhooper (Sep 7, 2018)

I bought a 2012 3038E awhile back. It only had 200 hours on it and had a brand new motor, as the original owner lost the coolant and burned up the original one. A JD mechanic bought it and did it as an after-work project. It is really a stout tractor. It loses traction, long before it loses power. I have used it to load firewood into my 12-foot dump trailer and to pull my four-foot bush hog, plus hauling gravel etc. It has really taken a lot of work out of the firewood thing. I bought the tractor/loader, for $15,000. I am just about to 300 hours on it!


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Sep 7, 2018)

+1 You can always run at 80% but 120% is a little more problematic.


----------



## sirbuildalot (Sep 7, 2018)

So true gentleman!!!

I don't always need a Kioti NX series, but when a big job arises it sure comes in handy. For instance, several months ago my neighbor had 2 large oak trees dropped. Both approx. 28-30" in diameter. I was able to get the wood for free, and get it to my house quickly. A series size or two under mine would have required two-three times the trips and a bunch of short logs/rounds versus much fewer regular sized logs. Another example, I had to pick up and move a 2 cubic yard dumpster full of trash at my house approx. a 1200' distance away for the driveway to get paved. The Kioti with forks picked it right up, a Kubota BX sized machine...….yeah no.

For driving on grass a lot though a smaller machine would be gentler on the turf. Hence the addition of the Ford 1700.

I think the real solution here is to have multiple machines. Seriously, its pretty hard to get one machine that's perfectly suited for all tasks.


----------



## Mustang71 (Sep 7, 2018)

I agree. That's y I think get the sub compact for my needs now then if I need a heavy tractor and loader down the road I can get an older gear transmission tractor for pretty cheap. I see a lot of people with that combo around here.

Originally I was thinking a compact tractor to cover both sides but after mowing all summer I think it would be to big for my lawn lay out.

I also dont like the idea of the extra weight on my septic field.


----------



## CaseyForrest (Sep 7, 2018)

Just got my 6' EA Landscape rake... Showing scale comparison on a B2650....


----------



## rancher2 (Sep 8, 2018)

Mustang 71
Check Craigslist Omaha NE 2305 JD 62 inch mower loader 5 ft blade. 386 hours for $10,000


----------



## Mustang71 (Sep 8, 2018)

I'm not sure about traveling to get a tractor. The old f150 has 180k on it and towing a tractor a long way might be risky. There's a john deere near here that's about the same for 9500. I have been so against the newer john deere that I would hate to buy one but I still look at them. They seem to be cheaper than kubota but I also think the kubota is a better quality but the price is the deciding factor. Best tractor for the price wins. Obviously I would pay a bit more for a kubota and a lot less for a mahindra/tym.


----------



## Mustang71 (Sep 8, 2018)

https://www.landproequipment.com/se...-2010-John-Deere-2305-[3330927]/#detailanchor


----------



## DSW (Sep 18, 2018)

I don't think that's a bad deal at all. That's probably half off new and it has minimal hours.


----------



## Mustang71 (Sep 18, 2018)

I dont know about the mower deck size but I might go look at it.


----------



## Mustang71 (Sep 18, 2018)

So I have inquired about a 2016 Massey Ferguson gc1705 with 400 hours for 10900. They said they could do 10k for it and I guess my financing was approved so now I need to figure out if that's something I want to do. I have looked at the tractor several times in person and online.


----------



## Mustang71 (Sep 19, 2018)

So I bought this guy. 10k and I told them I wanted all the fluids and filters changed as well as a broken and missing bolt on the loader fixed. I'm picking it up in a few days. 2500 down and 4.9 or less interest for 48 months. I got 900 off the price and about 500 in services.


----------



## cre73 (Sep 19, 2018)

Well good job, Im sure you will enjoy it. Good luck


----------



## sirbuildalot (Sep 20, 2018)

Congrats!!!


----------



## Mustang71 (Sep 20, 2018)

I wanted the kubota but the price was more than I wanted to pay and the more I looked at massey Ferguson the more I liked them. They are a Japanese made tractor and that's what I was looking for. Not as nice as the kubota but that's ok if it saves me some cash I'll lose a few bells and whistles.


----------



## rancher2 (Sep 20, 2018)

I think you will like the Massey. There was a good sized dealer around here and there is a fair amount of them on acreages. I haven't heard anything bad about them.


----------



## Mustang71 (Sep 21, 2018)

They seem like a tractor built more for working than being fancy and modern. This one is pretty basic but I didn't want the digital gauges or a 12v outlet. The rops aren't that tall so idc if they dont fold. I didnt like the plastic rear fenders or the location of the hydraulic lines on the loader but that wasn't a deal breaker. The whole hood opens and everything is real accessible including the battery and that was a big deal to me and it's a metal hood.


----------



## bear1998 (Sep 21, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> They seem like a tractor built more for working than being fancy and modern. This one is pretty basic but I didn't want the digital gauges or a 12v outlet. The rops aren't that tall so idc if they dont fold. I didnt like the plastic rear fenders or the location of the hydraulic lines on the loader but that wasn't a deal breaker. The whole hood opens and everything is real accessible including the battery and that was a big deal to me and it's a metal hood.


i beleive youll like it.....i have a kioti cs2210 w/fel and snow blower. Numerous amount of folks say go bigger...for some yes....some no.
Classic example for me...since we had nothin but monsoons all summer...a lot of driveways got washed out. If i had a bigger tractor i would have never been able to get into area to back drag the stones out. For me ...its perfect!
Let us know how you like it....


----------



## Mustang71 (Sep 22, 2018)

I'm still waiting to pick it up but every time I mow the lawn I think a sub compact would be perfect then I tried the Massey Ferguson out and it steers great way better than my riding mower and I loaded the bucket with stone and it lifted it with no problem. That's all I need, something to run a big mower deck and occasionally use the loader. Yes my weiner may get smaller from buying a sub compact and that was my issue, as my wife pointed out, but it should work good for me on my current property.


----------



## sirbuildalot (Sep 24, 2018)

Mustang71 said:


> I'm still waiting to pick it up but every time I mow the lawn I think a sub compact would be perfect then I tried the Massey Ferguson out and it steers great way better than my riding mower and I loaded the bucket with stone and it lifted it with no problem. That's all I need, something to run a big mower deck and occasionally use the loader.* Yes my weiner may get smaller from buying a sub compact and that was my issue, as my wife pointed out*, but it should work good for me on my current property.




Um...ok then


----------



## Mustang71 (Sep 25, 2018)

Brought it home took my son for a ride and after driving it around for 10 min I'm glad I didn't get a bigger tractor. This one fits around and under everything and feels like pretty big nothing like the lawn tractor.


----------

