# Makita EA4300 (Dolmar PS-420) vs. Makita DCS5121 (Dolmar PS-510)



## FCouperin (Mar 10, 2016)

Hello All,

There have been plenty of articles on these saws but I'm hesitant on which to pick between the two for my needs. After reading A LOT on this site (impressive community!) and looking at my options, I've settled that it's gonna be one of these two saws (Makita EA4300 or Makita DCS5121). It's going to be my first saw - I haven't even ever used a chain saw before hence the need for advice (young man here). I'm going to be using it on a 1.5 acre lot to cut 2, maybe 3 cords a year to burn at the cottage. I'll mostly be cutting trees that have already fallen, mostly spruce, maple, birch and some pine. For the most part I should be dealing with trees between 10' and 16' diameter, and rarely a max of 20'.

I was quite decided on the EA4300 since I see that the corresponding Dolmar PS-420 had an impressive following and has a reputation for being very well built. I found out however that my dealer has the DCS5121 for only $25 more. The corresponding PS-510 has seemed to generate a little less enthusiasm though, has aluminium instead of magnesium like the former and is assembled in China instead of Germany like the former. Should I go for the 7 more CCs but 1.3 more lbs nevertheless? Or should I stick with the smaller saw, and buy another 60+ CC one day if I ever feel the need for more saw?

Thanks a lot in advance!

Ben


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## Poleman (Mar 10, 2016)

Ben,

First off...Welcome to AS!!

This is my thoughts and opinions..... The EA4300 has a very good reputation for the way it runs and performs. I have not owned one but I have friends that do and they are highly praised. They say they have a heart of a bigger saw!!

Now I have owned a 510.....it is being compared directly to the 5105 which is an awesome saw in my opinion. That's why I think the 510 is less noted. The 510 does have an aluminum case compared to the 5105's magnesium case.(weight thing here more than anything) I couldn't tell much difference in weight nor am I interested. The 510 does have an open port cylinder compared to closed port....meaning the 5105 will usually make more power with this configuration.(Which it does) The 510 is an ok saw but to come close to a 5105 it needs to be ported to compare....then they run pretty respectable, but still lack the bottom end torque of the 5105.

My recommendations would be get the EA4300(420) but that's me. It is smaller but I think it has more performance. I tried to give you insight on what I think and why....ultimately its what yiu like and what fits you better for your needs.


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## rburg (Mar 10, 2016)

I believe I would choose the smaller model and get a larger size later. I have run a 420 and it is a nice running saw.


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## FCouperin (Mar 10, 2016)

Thanks a lot for your insights, they're most appreciated!! I'll put the order in


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## rburg (Mar 10, 2016)

Let us know how you like it.


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## 7sleeper (Mar 10, 2016)

Personally it sounds like you are buying a single all around saw, for that I would choose a 50cc saw! 

I own the "old" Dolmar 420 2.7hp model and not the "new" 420sc=421 3hp model. It is a very good saw! But if you encounter larger trees (>20 inch hard wood or >25 inch soft wood) you are going to the limit that I would endure to the little saw. For the price difference I would choose a stronger all around saw, because in your situation weight is totally irrelevant but you require the power of an all around saw which for me the Dolmar 510 provides easily. 

7


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## Red Elm (Mar 10, 2016)

The EA4300 is actually the smurf blue equivalent of the Dolmar 421. I own two 421s.

The 510 Dolmar is the tamer brother of the 5105, I own four 5105s.

I run all of these doing firewood and Timber Stand Improvement work.

For more reasons than my fingers can stand to type, get the EA 4300!!!!!!!


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## FCouperin (Mar 10, 2016)

Well the order is in for the EA4300! Thanks to all for your feedback in either direction.

I have to say, I expected buying a chainsaw would be a fairly routine purchase, but after all the research I've been doing here, this is actually pretty exciting. I can't wait to receive the saw and try it out! I'll definitely follow up with how it goes. Thanks again!


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## svk (Mar 10, 2016)

Looks like it's too late to influence the purchase but I'd vote for the larger one if that's your only saw.


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## CoreyB (Mar 10, 2016)

The 4300 will provide enough saw for most people's needs.
Heck with only have 1.5 acres you could have it all cut down aND bucked up in two weeks or less with a 4300/421
In fact a 421 will be my next saw.


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## svk (Mar 10, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> The 4300 will provide enough saw for most people's needs.
> Heck with only have 1.5 acres you could have it all cut down aND bucked up in two weeks or less with a 4300/421
> In fact a 421 will be my next saw.


I've been meaning to start a small saw thread. I revived the 543 xp discussion but nobody chimed in.


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## Jeffkrib (Mar 11, 2016)

Poleman's response to the OP's first post...... Fist off........ got to love auto correct!
To the OP you will love chainsaws they just do so much work for such a little package.
Big difference between your ordinary home trimmer or blower and even a small chainsaw, the just have grunt.
Get some PPE and hove fun.


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## wde_1978 (Mar 11, 2016)

Amazing how different the reasoning and arguments are regarding a 2 choice matter!

I think I would go with the 4300 (421), but that is only based on what I read about that saw.

If You intend to cut bigger diameter wood just get a loop of skip tooth chain, it will cut slower but also reduce the load on the saw.

Good luck, stay safe and have fun with Your new saw!

P.S.: Welcome to ArboristSite!


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## 7sleeper (Mar 11, 2016)

FCouperin said:


> Well the order is in for the EA4300! Thanks to all for your feedback in either direction.
> 
> I have to say, I expected buying a chainsaw would be a fairly routine purchase, but after all the research I've been doing here, this is actually pretty exciting. I can't wait to receive the saw and try it out! I'll definitely follow up with how it goes. Thanks again!


Have the dealer set the carb correctly to the fuel you intend to use. In your situation I would seriously consider premix fuel. It sounds like the "cottage" is not your permanent residence so pre mix is definately the way to go. Should have a 5 year shelf life and nothing to worry about with carb gumming up, etc. It IS more expensive than mixing yourself but much easier to handle.

If you choose to mix, you should empty the fuel tank and carb system so that the membranes don't have too long contact with your fuel system at the end of the season. I empty the fuel tank and then press the little pump bulb till only air is passing through and empty the fuel tank again. You will be supprised how much fuel is in that system. And then I go to full choke and pull the starter 5-6 x to be sure that the system is empty.
Use your "old" self mixed fuel (>3-6 months) for the lawnmower or similar and always start with a fresh batch.

7


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## FCouperin (Mar 11, 2016)

Wow, thank you so much for the tips, Jeffkrib, wde_1978 and 7sleeper!!! This is invaluable. I didn't know anything about skip tooth chains and premix fuel. I will definitely make use of those tips. I can see premix fuel being really convenient with one less motor to winterize. I assume I can still use the saw during the cold months of Canadian winter with premix fuel if needed?


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## AlfA01 (Feb 26, 2017)

I just ordered a Makita 4300 F38 from Germany. It was way cheaper than I could buy the saw locally, so I decided the wait was worth it. I was previously running a small Stihl MS 170, but I traded it for a Tanaka limbing saw (ECS3301). Excited to see this Makita run up close.

Edit:
I just made an edit here to ask why the difference in power rating for the Dolmar vs. the Makita. Dolmar's website claims the PS420 to be 2.7HP and Makita's website claims the EA4300 to be 3.0HP. Is this a regional difference, or is it standard?


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## AlfA01 (Feb 26, 2017)

7sleeper said:


> Have the dealer set the carb correctly to the fuel you intend to use. In your situation I would seriously consider premix fuel. It sounds like the "cottage" is not your permanent residence so pre mix is definately the way to go. Should have a 5 year shelf life and nothing to worry about with carb gumming up, etc. It IS more expensive than mixing yourself but much easier to handle.
> 
> If you choose to mix, you should empty the fuel tank and carb system so that the membranes don't have too long contact with your fuel system at the end of the season. I empty the fuel tank and then press the little pump bulb till only air is passing through and empty the fuel tank again. You will be supprised how much fuel is in that system. And then I go to full choke and pull the starter 5-6 x to be sure that the system is empty.
> Use your "old" self mixed fuel (>3-6 months) for the lawnmower or similar and always start with a fresh batch.
> ...



I do the same with all my 2-strokes. I usually just disconnect the fuel tube on my outboard while it's idling and let the engine run out of gas, then pull the cord a few times and you are pretty safe.


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## SawTroll (Feb 26, 2017)

FCouperin said:


> Wow, thank you so much for the tips, Jeffkrib, wde_1978 and 7sleeper!!! This is invaluable. I didn't know anything about skip tooth chains and premix fuel. I will definitely make use of those tips. I can see premix fuel being really convenient with one less motor to winterize. I assume I can still use the saw during the cold months of Canadian winter with premix fuel if needed?



I would stay away from the skip chain unless you find that you really need it - it does have its disadvantages, like slower (unless really needed) and less smooth cutting.

Pre-mixed fuel is a good thing, but make sure it is Alkylate fuel with synthetic oil.


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## Chris-PA (Feb 26, 2017)

I would not bother with skip chain on any bar these saws would use.


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## SawTroll (Feb 26, 2017)

Chris-PA said:


> I would not bother with skip chain on any bar these saws would use.


Certainly not!


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## 7sleeper (Feb 26, 2017)

AlfA01 said:


> ...I just made an edit here to ask why the difference in power rating for the Dolmar vs. the Makita. Dolmar's website claims the PS420 to be 2.7HP and Makita's website claims the EA4300 to be 3.0HP. Is this a regional difference, or is it standard?


NO
the 420 *c* is the "old Modell" with 2.7hp.
the 420 *sc = *EA4300 is the new Version with 3hp.

g,

7


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## SawTroll (Feb 26, 2017)

7sleeper said:


> NO
> the 420 *c* is the "old Modell" with 2.7hp.
> the 420 *sc = *EA4300 is the new Version with 3hp.
> 
> ...




Yes, but as far as I know the 420 sc is called the 421 on the US market. I'm not sure if they are _exactly _the same on all accounts, but at least the power specs are the same 2.2 kW/3.0 hp (or 2.95 hp) vs. the 2.0 kW/2.7 hp of the original 420.


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## mgr (Feb 26, 2017)

Dolmar with 3 digits after model type: alumium, open port cylinder, called homeowner

4 digits: magnesium, closed port and pro saw.


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## 7sleeper (Feb 26, 2017)

mgr said:


> Dolmar with 3 digits after model type: alumium, open port cylinder, called homeowner
> 
> 4 digits: magnesium, closed port and pro saw.


Sorry NOT correct! 350/351/420/421 have mag bodies and are considered pro saws.


SawTroll said:


> Yes, but as far as I know the 420 sc is called the 421 on the US market...


Excelent catch!

7


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## mgr (Feb 26, 2017)

Sorry NOT correct! 350/351/420/421 have mag bodies and are considered pro saw.
Yes, i looked and they have a mag body. But they are sold as home owner saw:
Empfohlen für den semi-professionellen Gebrauch


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## SawTroll (Feb 26, 2017)

7sleeper said:


> Sorry NOT correct! 350/351/420/421 have mag bodies and are considered pro saws.
> 
> Excelent catch!
> 
> 7




You are right about magnesium vs. aluminum - but 3 digit numbers on that generation of Dolmars still means semi-pro, not pro saws. Keep in mind that the 420sc/421 is heavier than a 242xp, and still puts out .2 kw less (with the original 420 it was .4 kW less).

The power to weight ratio of the 350/351 is so bad though that I would classify them as "homeowner" class saws, regardless of materials - they really are an insult to the costumer.

In addition the handling of all these Dolmars suffer from them having an inboard clutch, but that hardly has anything to do with Dolmars own classifications of saws.


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## SawTroll (Feb 27, 2017)

mgr said:


> Dolmar with 3 digits after model type: alumium, open port cylinder, called homeowner
> 
> 4 digits: magnesium, closed port and pro saw.



It isn't always that straight forward, there are lots of exceptions - _as far as I know_ alu cases on the semi-pro models only is the case on the PS-5000 based saws (but there are models where I don't really know).

What has been the system for over a decade is that 4 digit model numbers means pro saws, and anything less means a lesser saw to some degree.

Another matter (but related) is that what "class" different saws belong to is debatable in many cases - there isn't any consensus, so every brand and every user really can define it as they want to.
I have been "playing" with trying to define it, but it seems impossible to do it in such a way that there will be no exceptions.


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## Franny K (Feb 27, 2017)

SawTroll said:


> The power to weight ratio of the 350/351 is so bad though that I would classify them as "homeowner" class saws, regardless of materials - they really are an insult to the costumer.
> 
> .



I happen to have one of those 351 models. For my purposes it has enough power for a 6 tooth spur and 3/8lp. It is probably the best running saw or maybe even piece of two cycle outdoor equipment I have. The warm up time to run well is extremely short. My complaints would be the odor of the fumes and how hot and how long the muffler stays hot. Rated at 1.7kw just like my 338xpt or your 339xp it is amazing how much better it cuts. It is wonderful for turning on and off, no need to set the choke then unset it to get to high idle like the strato saws I have. the 338xpt starts great but I usually pull the chord when shutting it off as often it sort of goes in reverse in the shut down process.

I think the four digit 65cc Dolmar "pro" saw is open port. Like you say exceptions.


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## Chris-PA (Feb 27, 2017)

"Pro Saw" is a marketing term, and as such has no meaning other than how successfully it makes you feel like opening your wallet. There is no standard or any way to turn it into something quantifiable. The saw itself - any saw - is a piece of machinery and you can use it for whatever you want, including to make money with or to polish in your garage.


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## Franny K (Feb 27, 2017)

I could see the vibration rating as something quantifiable, especially if some government standard for job site limits exists. Seem to recall something of that nature discussed on here in other parts of the world.


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## 7sleeper (Feb 27, 2017)

SawTroll said:


> It isn't always that straight forward, there are lots of exceptions - _as far as I know_ the alu thing only is the case on the PS-5000 based saws (but there are models where I don't really know)....


As ST mentioned absolutely correctly the 3 digit labelling is not ONLY homeowner. The classic 115, which is still currently produced and sold in europe is pure pro saw!

One thing I might add is to ST above comment the 5000 model line (4600, 5000, 5001, 4605, 5105) ALL had mag bodies. The 460/500 models were the models with aluminium body.



Chris-PA said:


> "Pro Saw" is a marketing term, and as such has no meaning other than how successfully it makes you feel like opening your wallet. There is no standard .....


Excellent comment Chris! Absolutely correct and we have had emough comments on comercial use of the "homeowner/ farmerclass" saws over the years here, with typical timespans of 2-3 years in a commercial setting before replacement as fas as I remember. 

7


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## Chris-PA (Feb 27, 2017)

Franny K said:


> I could see the vibration rating as something quantifiable, especially if some government standard for job site limits exists. Seem to recall something of that nature discussed on here in other parts of the world.


Sure, vibration, sound level, weight, power are all quantifiable parameters. But unless some group comes up with some collection of such parameters to catagorize what "pro" or "consumer" means (which would still be arbitrary), they are just marketing fluff.


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## mgr (Feb 27, 2017)

Yeah the 115 is a pro saw. When they changed the names to PS is 3 digits home owner.

Here in Europe there is a difference in home or pro saw. Same with Stihl, ms290 isn' t sold overhere as a pro saw.

My fault for this discussion as in EU are other standards.

Manuel


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## SawTroll (Feb 27, 2017)

7sleeper said:


> As ST mentioned absolutely correctly the 3 digit labelling is not ONLY homeowner. The classic 115, which is still currently produced and sold in Europe is pure pro saw!



Yes, the 115 is a pro model from the 1980s, that still is made and sold today. Of course they didn't change the model number on classic pro model, even though they started using 4 digits on new pro models.



7sleeper said:


> One thing I might add is to ST above comment the 5000 model line (4600, 5000, 5001, 4605, 5105) ALL had mag bodies. The 460/500 models were the models with aluminium body.



Add the 510 to the alu cased ones - it likely is the most common of them, and certainly is in the US.

As I said, this is the only model family I know of where a heavier alu case is used on the semi-pro models, while the pro models have a mag case.


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## 166 (Feb 27, 2017)

Latest model (2016 ->) DCS5121 / PS-510 / PS-500 will be identical to the EA5000PR / PS-5105 except for the open port cylinder and the spur style clutch drum.

Magnesium crankcases/5105 coil/5105 hood


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## Bingo (Feb 27, 2017)

Interesting thread...I'd love to have a Dolmar 420/421 for small dedicated jobs but haven't gotten around to it. But I do have a Dolmar 510 I got 3 yrs ago that has been the most useful, productive and all around good runner that I've ever used for a 50cc saw....It just starts and runs everytime and it's 18" bar, rim sprocket, 3/8 .050 works just fine...if it goes down I'll probably turn it into a 5105. But so far it's been a pleasure to own and use. Easiest starting saw I've ever had. And it's step up from the 420/421....Heavy?...a bit...doesn't have the low-end grunt of a 5105?...I can't tell while using it, not a 5105?...who cares?...it does it's job and I'm happy....these are good saws. Goes well with my Stihl 461 for most of my firewood needs....


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## 7sleeper (Feb 28, 2017)

166 said:


> Latest model (2016 ->) DCS5121 / PS-510 / PS-500 will be identical to the EA5000PR / PS-5105 except for the open port cylinder.
> 
> Magnesium crankcases/5105 coil/5105 hood


THANKS for the info!

7


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## AlfA01 (Feb 28, 2017)

Got mine from DHL today. Wow....so impressed so far. I cut a a bunch of stuff that I rough cut on the mountain previously. Most of the pieces were large and not easy to deal with, so I sized them down with the new Makita. At this point, I can tell you this saw will out cut other bigger saws. Hands down, it's one of the better, if not the best midrange sized saws I've ever held. I've cut with a lot of Stihl and Husky's, and I I always thought I was working....with this Makita...I can't stop smiling. This thing rips!!! 

Since I bought mine direct from Germany, I'm not sure if the HP or CC's are different from the exported models. Mine says on the box and the machine that it is a German product. There is no mention of being assembled in China. My angle grinder says it's German, but made in Polland. I truly think the model of saw I bought is an original made in Germany saw and after researching, I think the PS-421 is the equivalent, not the 420. 

Cheers,
Dan


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## 7sleeper (Feb 28, 2017)

Hi Dan,

Congratulation to your new saw. 

Just for clarification, only the ps 32 is currently produced in china as fas as I know. The rest are made in germany/hamburg. 

And yes the current 420sc = 421.

7


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## cedarhollow (Feb 28, 2017)

The old dcs520i I have is a great saw, can't kill it, sat for more than 10 years and with new fuel in tank it started right up and keeps going strong, just got a new 18" prolite bar and stihl rs chain for it and it cuts great. a bit better than the 20 makita bar that was on it.


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## AlfA01 (Mar 2, 2017)

7sleeper said:


> Hi Dan,
> 
> Congratulation to your new saw.
> 
> ...



Thanks. I'm really liking it a lot. I've burned 3-4 tanks of gas through it and now and got both of the new chains stretched in. They were 484 064 chains made in Canada. They are stamped in the chain "Dolmar", but the packaging said "Product of Canada". They tended to be grabby at first, wanting to almost pull wood with them that doesn't have any amount of significant weight. Now they they've gotten a little broken in, I think they are cutting well.


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## AlfA01 (Mar 8, 2017)

So, after 2-weeks of owning this magnificent saw, I have a few pros and cons to report if anyone is interested, or if the original poster is still debating whether to buy one of these saws. 

Pros:
Really strong for the rated HP
Good fuel efficiency
Well balanced (weight distribution)
Love the On/Off switch
EASY Start is an overstatement...easiest chainsaw I've ever started. Not the easiest cord pull, but the engine fires with the slightest tug
Anti-vibration is real....it works
Air filter intake location is perfect...after two weeks of use, the filter had a small layer of fine dust on it


Cons:
Gas and oil caps--they are recessed and allow sawdust to fall in if you don't clean around them before opening
Catalytic converter (don't hate me "go green" guys)...I'm all about the environment, so I'll make up for it by recycling more...I took mine out!
On/Off switch... I say this as a Con because there is no full OFF(there is, thanks 7, but it's a pain). The switch is spring loaded to the ON position. That means if you only want to cycle the engine, it may fire up, which is very possible given the Easy Start

That's it in a nutshell for me. I don't find any other nuances about the saw so far. It really rips after removing the catalytic converter. Needs a little fine tuning for the carb, but not much at all. If you buy the kit version with the box, files and oil like I did, you will receive an Oregon file and file guide. Don't use the 30 degree side of the file guide, unless you like making wood powder. I use the 25 degree angle and it's been really good for me so far. 

Cheers,
Dan


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## 7sleeper (Mar 8, 2017)

Hi AlfA01,

the 420sc/421=4300EA has a off position. If you push it down far enough it stays in the bottom position = off!

7


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## AlfA01 (Mar 8, 2017)

Yeah. You're right. Glad I put that in the Cons section, because it's not as favorable as the rest of the switch positions. It's more of a pain than a plus!


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## AlfA01 (Mar 9, 2017)

Found this today...


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## r3dpuma (Mar 9, 2017)

Hey guys
I'm from Romania. I got my makita 5121 /dolmar 510 just 3 weeks ago. It is such an awesome saw. But... After reading a ton of topics here about 510 vs 5105 I get restless nights because I didn't got the 5105. I really like my saw and it's more than enough for me and the extra money for the 5105 wasn't in the budget anyway. And in my country we don't even have Dolmars, we have only makita and its the 5000p model which is the dolmar 5100.
In my country the money I played for the 5121 is a month's Sallary. I'm afraid I'm gonna sell my saw with a lesser price then buy the 5000p and won't feel much difference anyway. The weight doesn't bother me. And I hear that if I muffler mod it it's gonna be on par with the 5000p. It really feels like a pro saw and more of a saw compared to my friends 455 rancher. 
Please make me love my saw again.


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## AlfA01 (Mar 10, 2017)

r3dpuma said:


> Hey guys
> I'm from Romania. I got my makita 5121 /dolmar 510 just 3 weeks ago. It is such an awesome saw. But... After reading a ton of topics here about 510 vs 5105 I get restless nights because I didn't got the 5105. I really like my saw and it's more than enough for me and the extra money for the 5105 wasn't in the budget anyway. And in my country we don't even have Dolmars, we have only makita and its the 5000p model which is the dolmar 5100.
> In my country the money I played for the 5121 is a month's Sallary. I'm afraid I'm gonna sell my saw with a lesser price then buy the 5000p and won't feel much difference anyway. The weight doesn't bother me. And I hear that if I muffler mod it it's gonna be on par with the 5000p. It really feels like a pro saw and more of a saw compared to my friends 455 rancher.
> Please make me love my saw again.


I bought the EA4300F Makita/ 421 Dolmar. I fall in love every single time I pick it up. You've got a 50CC model, so I can only imagine that it has great power. These saws are awesome. If I need a larger one, I would consider buying one later. I understand about the $$$$$, it's more difficult to come by these days, so you should really appreciate the saw. 

I too look at some of the other saws and think of buying them, but then I realize my needs and wallet aren't on the same level as some of the bigger saws.


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## 7sleeper (Mar 10, 2017)

@r3dpuma,

I would have financially absolut no problem buying the whole Stihl line, but I am absolutely happy with my dolmar 420. Further I am more happy to buy a "economy" model and save the money compared to the super duper model that would not put a single more twig on my firewood pile. Cutting technique, proper carb settings, correct maintenence, etc. have MUCH more impact on your fire wood pile than any magic machine. 

g,

7


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## r3dpuma (Mar 10, 2017)

Thank you for your responses. I appreciate my saw a lot anyway. Just the versus talks pisssed me off


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## 7sleeper (Mar 10, 2017)

r3dpuma said:


> Thank you for your responses. I appreciate my saw a lot anyway. Just the versus talks pisssed me off


Absolutely no reason to be pissed off. Just the same talk when little kids discuss who can piss the farthest...



7


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## r3dpuma (Mar 10, 2017)

Maybe in the USA
But here money has different value. A saw like the 5121 is an effort.


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## AlfA01 (Mar 10, 2017)

7sleeper said:


> @r3dpuma,
> 
> I would have financially absolut no problem buying the whole Stihl line, but I am absolutely happy with my dolmar 420. Further I am more happy to buy a "economy" model and save the money compared to the super duper model that would not put a single more twig on my firewood pile. Cutting technique, proper carb settings, correct maintenence, etc. have MUCH more impact on your fire wood pile than any magic machine.
> 
> ...


Agreed. Ran circles around some folks with bigger saws and I was using an MS 170 Stihl. The guy at the shop used to call it the "toy", but I brought the same amount of wood home from the mountain as they did!


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## r3dpuma (Mar 10, 2017)

Used to have a Jonsered 2234. Husqvarna /jonsered 's equivalent of the ms 170. That little saw was good to me and it did good. But now after I switched people call the makita 5121 little and homeowners saw. ... Who knows. Maybe when you have a 90cc ppl won't find something to point at


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## AlfA01 (Mar 10, 2017)

r3dpuma said:


> Maybe in the USA
> But here money has different value. A saw like the 5121 is an effort.


What about eBay? I bought mine from eBay directly out of Germany. 

The crazy thing I have to tell about the German produced saws is that they are cheaper in the US than here in the EU. You can get a 5121 in the US for the same price as 421 over here in Europe.


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## Sepia (Mar 10, 2017)

r3dpuma said:


> Hey guys
> I'm from Romania. I got my makita 5121 /dolmar 510 just 3 weeks ago. It is such an awesome saw. But... After reading a ton of topics here about 510 vs 5105 I get restless nights because I didn't got the 5105. I really like my saw and it's more than enough for me and the extra money for the 5105 wasn't in the budget anyway. And in my country we don't even have Dolmars, we have only makita and its the 5000p model which is the dolmar 5100.
> In my country the money I played for the 5121 is a month's Sallary. I'm afraid I'm gonna sell my saw with a lesser price then buy the 5000p and won't feel much difference anyway. The weight doesn't bother me. And I hear that if I muffler mod it it's gonna be on par with the 5000p. It really feels like a pro saw and more of a saw compared to my friends 455 rancher.
> Please make me love my saw again.



There is absolutely nothing "homeowner" about the DCS5121, when compared to the EA5000. The only difference is the cylinders are of a slightly different design, giving the 5000 a bit more KW/HP. The rest of the 2 saws are identical - I have held both saws side by side in the dealership and removed the covers on both. Same coil, filter, muffler and carb. 

Do a muffler mod to your 5121 and richen the carb up a bit, and you will notice little difference between your saw and the 5000, and you will have saved quite a bit of money in the process that you can put towards some safety gear.


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## r3dpuma (Mar 11, 2017)

I did some light cutting today. Check it out. Thanks!
Ps: I know about the safety gear. Here in Romania we don't really give it much thought. Chaps are very expensive. I Do have metal boots. Glasses. Gloves. Military pants. Ear protection.


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## Sepia (Mar 11, 2017)

Nice vid! Looks like you are enjoying the Makita and I love the blue saws.


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## r3dpuma (Apr 22, 2017)

Here's a new one


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## cedarhollow (Apr 22, 2017)

My DCS520i is about 20 years old and continues to amaze me. It allways starts right up, 1 pull with the pull out choke, starts on second pull every time. Never a problem with anything, I have just rewarded it this year with a new 18" prolite and a stihl RS chain not that anything was wrong with the stock 20" bar. Keep sharp chain on it and it just keeps on cutting. Lent it to a neighbor and he got it stuck trying to fell a big ash. he had the clutch smoking so much it looked like as fog bank moving in. We cut it out with a Stihl and it was thrown when the tree came down. I was thinking it was toast. Searching Google for a new clutch in anticipation of what it might need, put it back in the shed, went back to it a couple days later to access the damage. The bar was still straight so I cranked it up. Chain still good and I was off to the races cutting up another rick of hardwood. Amazing saw


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## Sepia (Apr 22, 2017)

Be mindful that when a clutch gets that hot, that it can melt other parts on the pto side of the saw. There is a plastic cage bearing inside the clutch drum, and a plastic worm gear on the crank that drives the oil pump. It could even affect the crank seal if it got hot enough.


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## r3dpuma (Apr 22, 2017)

It started slow because I tried to start it without choke. Sometimes it does start like that
I have a bet with a friend that my makita starts cold without choke but I seem to Never be able to film it. 
So I had to reset the starting process and that's why it looked painful.


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## cedarhollow (Apr 22, 2017)

Thanks for insight, I'll check it out before using again. I don't think I'll be loaning out favorite saws again. another reason to put together a hutzl 360.


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## Sepia (Apr 22, 2017)

r3dpuma said:


> Here's a new one



You put a nice gouge in that brick! Hate when that happens


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## r3dpuma (Apr 22, 2017)

CJ Brown said:


> You put a nice gouge in that brick! Hate when that happens


A 058 gauge to be more exact  
No worries! It's fixable


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## r3dpuma (Apr 25, 2017)

Another one


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## r3dpuma (May 9, 2017)

I know I'm double posting but... New video.. Keeping this thread alive 

My Makita with a 18inch B&C..


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## r3dpuma (Aug 14, 2017)




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## tallguys (Aug 16, 2017)

cedarhollow said:


> My DCS520i is about 20 years old and continues to amaze me. It allways starts right up, 1 pull with the pull out choke, starts on second pull every time. Never a problem with anything... Amazing saw



I've got the same saw but in Dolmar red, the 111i. Thing just keeps on going, solid workhorse that it is.


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## tallguys (Aug 16, 2017)

r3dpuma said:


> Hey guys
> I'm from Romania. I got my makita 5121 /dolmar 510 just 3 weeks ago. It is such an awesome saw. But... After reading a ton of topics here about 510 vs 5105 I get restless nights because I didn't got the 5105.... Please make me love my saw again.



The 510 is a very good, durable and reliable saw. I had one too. So unless that extra few hundred grams makes a huge difference to you, enjoy your saw.


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## r3dpuma (Aug 16, 2017)

It's been 8 months with my teal 510..With a 18" bar and a sharp chain is pure fun! 'nuf said. Thanks


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## r3dpuma (Aug 24, 2017)




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## r3dpuma (Oct 28, 2017)

New Season


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## JDMiller (Oct 28, 2017)

I handled a few Makita saws the other day in a store because I never saw one in person before

Not sure what size engine, but 20" bar, probably 50cc

They looked very well made, quality , but Damn They seemed heavy for some reason


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## r3dpuma (Oct 29, 2017)

Yea. They are a tad heavier than the equivalent Stihl or Husq. Maybe that solid build makes them a pound heavier. I honestly don't mind it.
The difference it's comparable to a full tank of gas and bar oil. Let's use the husqvarna 353 for example, since that's the saw that is similar to my makita, it's about a pound lighter. That weight difference it's like an owner of the 353 will say that he likes his saw better with empty tanks than with full tanks. We are men, what's a pound?


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## 7sleeper (Oct 29, 2017)

My assumption is always, we are cutting and often moving firewood by hand that weighs tons and are complaining about a "significant" weight differences. 

7


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## r3dpuma (Oct 29, 2017)

Exactly. Those logs that I've cut in that video I will load by hand on a wheelbarrow and carry away. That last big log weights 4-5 times as much as the saw.
Power / weight ratio is nonsense imho


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## hybridkarpower (Oct 29, 2017)

the best analogy I can give you is to imagine if you are buying a new truck. A bigger truck can be used to haul small stuff while a small truck cannot be used to do the opposite. IMO anything smaller than 50cc is best suited for limbing and light duty clean up work. 



FCouperin said:


> Hello All,
> 
> There have been plenty of articles on these saws but I'm hesitant on which to pick between the two for my needs. After reading A LOT on this site (impressive community!) and looking at my options, I've settled that it's gonna be one of these two saws (Makita EA4300 or Makita DCS5121). It's going to be my first saw - I haven't even ever used a chain saw before hence the need for advice (young man here). I'm going to be using it on a 1.5 acre lot to cut 2, maybe 3 cords a year to burn at the cottage. I'll mostly be cutting trees that have already fallen, mostly spruce, maple, birch and some pine. For the most part I should be dealing with trees between 10' and 16' diameter, and rarely a max of 20'.
> 
> ...


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## r3dpuma (Nov 11, 2017)

One more session. Enjoy


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## r3dpuma (Nov 18, 2017)

It's Saturday so it's cutting day


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## r3dpuma (Dec 9, 2017)

New experiment guys. Motul 800 2T racing mix oil. 40: 1 ratio


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## r3dpuma (Dec 28, 2017)

Nice versus video


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## Mario66 (Nov 7, 2018)

Hello,
I want to find answer about dolmar 420sc.
I just buy this model and it's write on plate that it's made in china.
I want to know if it's a fake or this model really was made in china.
I buy it from a guy who bought it from Germany. It's brand new and it's start at second pull. I don't have any documents about this saw. 
I attached a foto of the plate. 

Thanks for the answers.


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## r3dpuma (Nov 24, 2018)

Hey guys. I've sold my makita 5121 last February. this is my new lineup 

My brand new dolmar 420 made in 2012 is built in germany.


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## AlfA01 (Nov 25, 2018)

Mario66 said:


> Hello,
> I want to find answer about dolmar 420sc.
> I just buy this model and it's write on plate that it's made in china.
> I want to know if it's a fake or this model really was made in china.
> ...



Yes. All of the newer 420/421 saws are now Made in China.


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