# Couple Homemade Porta-wraps



## Nailsbeats (Apr 6, 2008)

Here's a picture of the steel porta-wraps me and my brother wipped up. We fabbed these with high expectations, since many on here use them. Steel for strength, red for visibility. I think they should work fine. What do you think?


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## Aero_101 (Apr 6, 2008)

Looks sharp, what are the dimensions? Looks like a copy of the small port-a-wrap.....


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## Dadatwins (Apr 6, 2008)

The design looks good, not sure about the diameter of the solid steel, looks thinner than standard and might hurt bend ratio. Nothing to gauge it by so it might be the same as those commercially sold. Red paint for visability a good idea, but it will wear off soon enough. Nice work.


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## arbormonkey (Apr 6, 2008)

If the tube is 2" your bend ratio should be just fine for 1/2" line. How long did each one take?


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## Nailsbeats (Apr 6, 2008)

They are 9" long, 3" pipe with 3/16" wall, rod is 1/2". I am not sure if they are long enough to get the wraps needed. If not they can be easily extended or modified. They took about an hour to build, figuring the bends and tooling up for them was the only thing that really took any time.


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## oldirty (Apr 6, 2008)

is there anything you cant do nails? 


dont go big on your first test run! if they hold up you just saved yourself some loot. good stuff.

they dont look fragile.....


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## Nailsbeats (Apr 6, 2008)

oldirty said:


> is there anything you cant do nails?
> 
> 
> dont go big on your first test run! if they hold up you just saved yourself some loot. good stuff.
> ...



Not really. Lol 

We will test with care, if they don't have the snoose required we will mod them up until they do. Fragile huh, I think your messin with me now.


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## arbormonkey (Apr 6, 2008)

Very cool!
Keep us posted on how they hold up.


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## tree MDS (Apr 6, 2008)

The pegs look a little smallish, other than that nice work there Nails.


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## Nailsbeats (Apr 6, 2008)

tree MDS said:


> The pegs look a little smallish, other than that nice work there Nails.




Do you mean length or diameter? Diameter is 1/2".


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## treebogan (Apr 6, 2008)

I'dbe happy with them!Good work fella!


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## tree MDS (Apr 6, 2008)

Nailsbeats said:


> Do you mean length or diameter? Diameter is 1/2".


I meant diameter, but no half inch looks like what mine is, nice job. Good luck with the paint though. I need another porta wrap for but lines I'm thinking the middle size will be sufficient, plus it'll be nice to have a smaller one too. 
Does anyone actually use the smallest one?


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## tomtrees58 (Apr 6, 2008)

good job have you used a Hobbs L D yet ?? besides a tree service i am a sierra Moreno mercantile dealer tom trees


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## oldirty (Apr 6, 2008)

tree MDS said:


> Does anyone actually use the smallest one?



ive only seen them on the shelf. 

if you are going to use the small one wouldnt your figure 8 work just as well? that was a theoretical question i guess.




Nailsbeats said:


> Fragile huh, I think your messin with me now.



a little... lol


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## oldirty (Apr 6, 2008)

tomtrees58 said:


> good job have you used a Hobbs L D yet ?? besides a tree service i am a sierra Moreno mercantile dealer tom trees



crane work without the crane.


whats the difference between the hobbs and the grcs if you dont mind me asking there tom. i have never run one but would like to.


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## rbtree (Apr 6, 2008)

The ratcheting bollard Hobbs requires a bar be inserted into slots in the capstan for tensioning/lifting. Appx 17-1 mech advantage. pretty much requires two men. Works well with 3/4 inch line and smaller. Best for lowering heavy loads.

GRCS utilizes a 46-1 two speed self tailing Harken winch. Far superior to the Hobbs for all tree work but heavy wood lowering. Comes with a fixed bollard for heavy work--which doesn't allow tensioning the line, so the Hobbs is still best if tensioning is desired. 

I have both.


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## tree MDS (Apr 6, 2008)

rbtree said:


> The ratcheting bollard Hobbs requires a bar be inserted into slots in the capstan for tensioning/lifting. Appx 17-1 mech advantage. pretty much requires two men. Works well with 3/4 inch line and smaller. Best for lowering heavy loads.
> 
> GRCS utilizes a 46-1 two speed self tailing Harken winch. Far superior to the Hobbs for all tree work but heavy wood lowering. Comes with a fixed bollard for heavy work--which doesn't allow tensioning the line, so the Hobbs is still best if tensioning is desired.
> 
> I have both.



Nice post sounds right to me-and all this from a guy that owns an alpine fagnum! go figure, lol. Oh, and the grcs is stronger too right, by what is it 500 or 1000 pounds??


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## eljefe (Apr 6, 2008)

*re: home made porta wrap*

They look very nice. I am envious!!. And of your new equipment on another post. 
This comment/question is more general than of the porta wraps. My climbing belt is a Klein 1984 vintage. When I got it I was told that if I were to ever drop it on a hard surface (concrete) I should have the D rings, etc Magna Fluxed and that I should have it Magna Fluxed anyway every so often. Magna Fluxing will show up cracks in the metal. I have never dropped it and I don't lend it out. But I have never had it Magna Fluxed either. I wonder what others experience has been. I remember someone posted a message about his gaffs breaking and the break showing an old hairline crack. Magna Fluxing would certainly have shown this easily. I would think Magna Fluxing the porta wraps might be a good idea as well. It would certainly tell if there was a crack at the weld site. 
And I really do like your giant sized porta wraps!!
El Jefe


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## Nailsbeats (Apr 6, 2008)

tomtrees58 said:


> good job have you used a Hobbs L D yet ?? besides a tree service i am a sierra Moreno mercantile dealer tom trees




No. I have seen them and we are kind of kicking the idea of getting one or the GRCS around. I might even build my own GRCS style provided I find a winch cheap someday.


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## tree MDS (Apr 6, 2008)

eljefe said:


> They look very nice. I am envious!!. And of your new equipment on another post.
> This comment/question is more general than of the porta wraps. My climbing belt is a Klein 1984 vintage. When I got it I was told that if I were to ever drop it on a hard surface (concrete) I should have the D rings, etc Magna Fluxed and that I should have it Magna Fluxed anyway every so often. Magna Fluxing will show up cracks in the metal. I have never dropped it and I don't lend it out. But I have never had it Magna Fluxed either. I wonder what others experience has been. I remember someone posted a message about his gaffs breaking and the break showing an old hairline crack. Magna Fluxing would certainly have shown this easily. I would think Magna Fluxing the porta wraps might be a good idea as well. It would certainly tell if there was a crack at the weld site.
> And I really do like your giant sized porta wraps!!
> El Jefe


Wow dude, that sounds exactly like my saddle! and I'm not kidding, lol, I just use two overhands on straight rope, works for me, and if one were to break big deal there is another! but now the short line, thats another animal alltogether..... you got me thinking.. I don't really know of "magnafluxing" other than fer chevy motors, sinse they're all we deal with at my shop! Sounds like you're a gear head too eh??


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## oldirty (Apr 6, 2008)

rbtree said:


> The ratcheting bollard Hobbs requires a bar be inserted into slots in the capstan for tensioning/lifting. Appx 17-1 mech advantage. pretty much requires two men. Works well with 3/4 inch line and smaller. Best for lowering heavy loads.
> 
> GRCS utilizes a 46-1 two speed self tailing Harken winch. Far superior to the Hobbs for all tree work but heavy wood lowering. Comes with a fixed bollard for heavy work--which doesn't allow tensioning the line, so the Hobbs is still best if tensioning is desired.
> 
> I have both.





thanks for the info bud.


are these tools something that you wouldnt be able to go without?

and why do you own both? different applications?

thanks


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## Bigus Termitius (Apr 6, 2008)

Nice work.

My contact with the electric co-op that I'm contracted is a working forestry and ROW specialist with 25 years experience that I intend to glean from. He built one similar a couple of weeks ago for me, but he gave me his trusty older unit since he hadn't tested the new one yet. 

Nice gift. 

He tells me he has held half of hell with it, LOL, but I know it has its limitations.

I have yet to use it for myself. Maybe this week.

I'm looking forward to building one someday as well, but that's on the back burner right next to rope splicing.


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## Nailsbeats (Apr 6, 2008)

Bigus Termitius said:


> Nice work.
> 
> My contact with the electric co-op that I'm contracted is a working forestry and ROW specialist with 25 years experience that I intend to glean from. He built one similar a couple of weeks ago for me, but he gave me his trusty older unit since he hadn't tested the new one yet.
> 
> ...




Rope splicing; yeah, I could see doing that when I'm 50, kind of like knitting isn't it. lol

Hey Oldirty, I found something I can't do.......yet. HaHa.

Actually it seems far off, but I will probably find a need for it and master it in the next five years. The list of things that you can learn and do yourself is endless.


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## 2FatGuys (Apr 7, 2008)

Nailsbeats said:


> Here's a picture of the steel porta-wraps me and my brother wipped up. We fabbed these with high expectations, since many on here use them. Steel for strength, red for visibility. I think they should work fine. What do you think?[/IMG]



Nails - That is an awesome job! Way to save some $$$ and probably have a little fun doing it too. If you ever want to have someone else "test" them for you, let me know...


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## Nailsbeats (Apr 7, 2008)

2FatGuys said:


> Nails - That is an awesome job! Way to save some $$$ and probably have a little fun doing it too. If you ever want to have someone else "test" them for you, let me know...



Save money is right. I saw the price on the factory ones and just about sh1t myself. It was ridiculous. Of course the family size of Bushes beans I ate the night before didn't help either. lol.


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## 2FatGuys (Apr 7, 2008)

Nailsbeats said:


> Save money is right. I saw the price on the factory ones and just about sh1t myself. It was ridiculous. Of course the family size of Bushes beans I ate the night before didn't help either. lol.



I about did the same when I saw the price on the factory ones. Why do you think I'm offering to be your personal testing agency?!?!?

Could I hide the begging any better?


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## oldirty (Apr 7, 2008)

TreeCo said:


> That's about the same reaction that I had when I read about your first spikeless climb!





lol


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## John Paul Sanborn (Apr 7, 2008)

Nailsbeats said:


> No. I have seen them and we are kind of kicking the idea of getting the GRCS around.



Just bring me up there for a couple of days 



oldirty said:


> are these tools something that you wouldnt be able to go without?



I do not use my GRCS every day, but it gets used a couple times a week.



tree MDS said:


> Does anyone actually use the smallest one?



I've used them up in the tops when groundies are unskilled and I need to self rig. They rung better then and 8 or carrabiner and munter


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## Magnum783 (Apr 7, 2008)

Nails if you want to make sure those are in tip top shape you can take them to be x-rayed. I built my own bollard like the one Kumerling sells and when I built it I took it over to the local gas line shop and they x-rayed it for me. I had one little pice of slag in the peg but never did anything with it. Not a weight bearing place. X-raying an item is quite picky but I figured it was worth it.
Jared


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## pdqdl (Apr 7, 2008)

*Loose the paint !*

I think you will regret having painted them. All that paint will come off on the ropes, and it will add friction and heat until it wears off. 

Paint also will slow the cooling rate, but that probably would never matter. You'd have to really be dropping a lot of wood real fast to overheat a rigging device.

What kind of steel and welding rod did you use ? If only mild steel, cold rolled: don't be surprised if you bend it every now & then.


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## Nailsbeats (Apr 7, 2008)

pdqdl said:


> I think you will regret having painted them. All that paint will come off on the ropes, and it will add friction and heat until it wears off.
> 
> Paint also will slow the cooling rate, but that probably would never matter. You'd have to really be dropping a lot of wood real fast to overheat a rigging device.
> 
> What kind of steel and welding rod did you use ? If only mild steel, cold rolled: don't be surprised if you bend it every now & then.




Yeah I know the paint isn't going to stay on, but aren't the factory ones painted? 

The straight rods were TIG welded into place and the bent rod was MIG welded with flux core to the 3" pipe. We'll test it and inspect, I ain't afraid to throw them in the scrap bin and make new ones. Cold rolled is pretty tuff, we'll see.


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## pdqdl (Apr 7, 2008)

The one I have (factory made), has some sort of electroplated, shot-peened finish on it. A very predictable, relatively high friction, surface. Pretty cool stuff, actually. 

No paint, though.


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## Nailsbeats (Apr 7, 2008)

That gives me an idea, I should just sandblast those babies. Good, even friction surface. Oh yeah I'm all over that.


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## Magnum783 (Apr 7, 2008)

I must see you laboratory their nails. It seems as thought you have a never ending supply of tools. You have got to be a hoot to hang out with. I think I would ponder the idea of taking a trip to Michigan just to hang out with nails and friends.
Jared


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## oldirty (Apr 7, 2008)

Magnum783 said:


> I think I would ponder the idea of taking a trip to Michigan just to hang out with nails and friends.
> Jared



i dont think you are going to get an invite to hang with him now that you have insulted him with the michigan comment.

he's a cheesehead through and through.

lol


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## eljefe (Apr 7, 2008)

*Reply to tree MDS*

Hi, Yes, I learned of Magna Fluxing when there I was next door to a business that built motors-race car, hot rod, street rod, etc. They had a Magna Fluxing machine which I fooled around with it a bit. Over the years I have tried several modifications to my Klein back and butt seat belt. My latest is to counteract the way it pinches my legs together when I am ascending on the line- I use a triple crown knot on an accender for my feet and a kleimheist for the belt. I put a piece of circut board (epoxy glass board), about 14 inches long on the butt seat and taped it in place. This keeps the butt seat from pinching my legs together. I found the tape was too slick and I tended to slip off the thing. Not too good. I took a piece of webbing and girth hitched it in the middle of the butt seat and then each end up to the D ring and clove hitched it to the D ring. This way I can not slide out of the butt seat. I found that the tension of the webbing up to the D rings works better that expected and it really works very well. I stay more balanced in the belt while ascending. I covered the ends of the circuit board with leather underneath the tape to keep them from abrading the fabric of the butt seat. 
I do see your point that if one D breaks you are still held by the other. Unless it is one of the flipline Ds and no other line at the time. That will be a wild ride! Still I'd not care to have it happen when throttled up with the saw. I think I will take my own advice and have my belt and spurs checked. Ah, the days of big block Fords and Chevys!
ElJefe


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## Nailsbeats (Apr 7, 2008)

Magnum783 said:


> I must see you laboratory their nails. It seems as thought you have a never ending supply of tools. You have got to be a hoot to hang out with. I think I would ponder the idea of taking a trip to Michigan just to hang out with nails and friends.
> Jared



Mag, the sadblaster I speak of, I built that too. 

If you are in Michigan just hang a left and you will find me in Wisconsin. Come on over, the beer is authentic and cold!

Oh yeah and that's Nails and friend, just one.


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## Bigus Termitius (Apr 7, 2008)

I think he took the W and flipped it in his mind from being so awestruck by the multi-talented Nailmeister.

Mine came without paint, though I considered throwing a light coat on for protection and visibility knowing that the ropes would polish their domain.


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## Magnum783 (Apr 8, 2008)

Nailsbeats said:


> Mag, the sadblaster I speak of, I built that too.
> 
> If you are in Michigan just hang a left and you will find me in Wisconsin. Come on over, the beer is authentic and cold!
> 
> Oh yeah and that's Nails and friend, just one.



I am sorry about the Michigan comment, I don't know what I was thinking. MY bad and I apologize. Even better Wisconsin, I have been their lot ridding snowmobile which is one of my favorite past times. Wow you built your sandblaster too, post pics of that my dad and I built one and it sucked. Didn't work worth a hoot, it took way to much air pressure to work it. It worked fine if you had in on like a construction type screw compressor but anything else not going to happen. You are quick the pro, do you have a degree or some sort of formal education on welding or metal or have you just learned it over the years?
Jared


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## Nailsbeats (Apr 8, 2008)

Magnum783 said:


> I am sorry about the Michigan comment, I don't know what I was thinking. MY bad and I apologize. Even better Wisconsin, I have been their lot ridding snowmobile which is one of my favorite past times. Wow you built your sandblaster too, post pics of that my dad and I built one and it sucked. Didn't work worth a hoot, it took way to much air pressure to work it. It worked fine if you had in on like a construction type screw compressor but anything else not going to happen. You are quick the pro, do you have a degree or some sort of formal education on welding or metal or have you just learned it over the years?
> Jared



We finally had a good winter for snowmobiling this year. The last 10 or so haven't been much to speak of. I will try to get a pic of the blaster soon, if I remember to take the camera to work.

My full time job is a welder/fabricator/engineer/foreman. My family and another have built a fabrication business from the ground up. I have been welding a lot since I was 16 or so. I have built a lot of different things out of steel and aluminum. I learned everything on the job.

My education is in Electrical Power Distribution. 

My favorite work is tree work. I have done that my whole life. 

I like to do everything I can myself, keeps it interesting . Most jobs have things in common with other jobs. A lot of skills cross over. When I want a piece of equipment I first see if it is cost effective to build, most of the time it is. Then I plan the job, attack and complete. Save money and learn at the same time. I have a lot more pics of stuff the put on here, just waiting for the right time. You are right though, it all takes tools.


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## treemandan (Apr 8, 2008)

[QUOTE=oldirty;

if you are going to use the small one wouldnt your figure 8 work just as well? that was a theoretical question i guess.



Do you think you could use the little port a wrap to lower yourself? Seems ok to me. 
I don't think you can get the holding power with an 8 than you can with a porto wrap.


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## treemandan (Apr 8, 2008)

Nailsbeats said:


> We finally had a good winter for snowmobiling this year. The last 10 or so haven't been much to speak of. I will try to get a pic of the blaster soon, if I remember to take the camera to work.
> 
> My full time job is a welder/fabricator/engineer/foreman. My family and another have built a fabrication business from the ground up. I have been welding a lot since I was 16 or so. I have built a lot of different things out of steel and aluminum. I learned everything on the job.
> 
> ...



You are right about seeing if it is cost effective but for some without a fab shop, like me ,I shell out the buck twenty five. You have to add the years spent building up your shop into each job you do, but now, after doing that, you can do things right for a nickle. Nice job and for some reason they do look smaller in the picture than mine. I don't weld that nice, I can, but I don't,usually.
This has got me very tempted to take some pictures of some basic stuff i built and am buliding. One thing I am afraid of: I'll go camera happy on the job or something and get killed.


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## Nailsbeats (Apr 8, 2008)

Dan, that is the problem with taking the camera to the job. You want to have pictures when it's all done, but don't want to take the time to do it during the job. I have found that you just have to suck it up and take them cause you know you will want them later. 

I married into this digital camera and really like it. Anyone can talk, but pics say it all. I wish I would have had pics of some jobs we did in the past, I will just have to take what I can for now to make up for it. Good motivation. The forum is cool, but I really take them so my kids can brag when I'm dead.


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## squad143 (Apr 9, 2008)

I use a small port-a-wrap to control speedline lowering if needed. Sometimes to lower limbs as in JPS' case (new groundies). I perfer the small port-a-wrap over the figure 8. With the wrap you can easily add more friction if needed.


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## oldirty (Apr 9, 2008)

squad143 said:


> I use a small port-a-wrap to control speedline lowering if needed. Sometimes to lower limbs as in JPS' case (new groundies). I perfer the small port-a-wrap over the figure 8. With the wrap you can easily add more friction if needed.




thanks


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## joesawer (Apr 9, 2008)

treemandan said:


> oldirty;
> if you are going to use the small one wouldnt your figure 8 work just as well? that was a theoretical question i guess.
> Do you think you could use the little port a wrap to lower yourself? Seems ok to me.
> I don't think you can get the holding power with an 8 than you can with a porto wrap.[/QUOTE said:
> ...


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## Mr.Roehler (Apr 10, 2008)

I did like wise with building my own portawrap/hobbs device looking thing. What I would reccommend though is to go out on a job that you're not going to really need to rig stuff down adn do it anyways and test it out and put it through the paces so you know exactly what it will take as far as abuse.


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## Nailsbeats (Apr 10, 2008)

Mr.Roehler said:


> I did like wise with building my own portawrap/hobbs device looking thing. What I would reccommend though is to go out on a job that you're not going to really need to rig stuff down adn do it anyways and test it out and put it through the paces so you know exactly what it will take as far as abuse.



Thanks Roehler, I am going to get on that this weakend if the blizzard we got going on quits.


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## treemandan (Apr 10, 2008)

joesawer said:


> treemandan said:
> 
> 
> > The figure 8 is a pain for lowering limbs, because you have to unhook and rehook your caribeener every time. A port-o-wrap is fast and easy to put the rope in and to take out, and yes it is easy to add friction.
> ...


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## BLITZZ (Jun 26, 2008)

*Homemade Porta-wraps*

Inspired by Nailsbeats , this is my version before welding (Wrap A Rope).








What are the dimensions for the Homemade Porta-wraps Nailsbeats ?, a 1:1 = to Porta-wrap?


B


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## Nailsbeats (Jun 26, 2008)

Hey nice job! Looks great so far.

For the dimensions, just match a factory one or do whatever looks good to you. I guessed at mine since I had no previous experience with them and have come to think that it isn't all that critical. It's a simple device.

I have used mine quite a bit now with no complaints, no bending, no paint problems, I wouldn't change anything. If you want my exact dimensions just give a shout back, I'll be around.


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## treemandan (Jun 26, 2008)

Nailsbeats said:


> Hey nice job! Looks great so far.
> 
> For the dimensions, just match a factory one or do whatever looks good to you. I guessed at mine since I had no previous experience with them and have come to think that it isn't all that critical. It's a simple device.
> 
> I have used mine quite a bit now with no complaints, no bending, no paint problems, I wouldn't change anything. If you want my exact dimensions just give a shout back, I'll be around.



What do you think the maximum weight you subjected you porta wrap to is? Its nice to have 2


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## tree MDS (Jun 26, 2008)

treemandan said:


> What do you think the maximum weight you subjected you porta wrap to is? Its nice to have 2



Brother dan, seems like you're really milking that smilely lately there bud.


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## treemandan (Jun 26, 2008)

)


tree MDS said:


> Brother dan, seems like you're really milking that smilely lately there bud.



I know I finally figured how to use it I was clicking the ones on the bottom and they weren't coming out before
I will try some of the other ones out soon


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## tree MDS (Jun 26, 2008)

As usual dan, that post said little and took up much room, must truely be a tradition by now! lol. thank yer sig and smilely's, lol.


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## BLITZZ (Jun 27, 2008)

Nailsbeats, what rope size have u used with it?


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## Nailsbeats (Jun 27, 2008)

Dan, I would say around 800 lbs. Nothing really testing it yet.

Blitz, I have only used 1/2" rope so far.


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## 046 (Nov 2, 2008)

nice!!

was thinking of making one too...


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## Nailsbeats (Nov 2, 2008)

Do it, they are easy as pie.


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