# Joystick troubles on bucket



## Kaptain_K

Trying to fix the joystick controls on my Hi-Ranger 52pbi....not sure what I am doing. The other day, the lower boom would not operate with the joystick, just the upper. Also, the boom will work fine with the lower controls, but now started working without the safety button being pushed....weird. I found a broken fluid line to the joystick, which already had a 3" patch at the end...so I just replaced the last 3" again with similar 1/4" poly tubing. So now the joystick won't operate at all, but things are back to normal with the safety button on the lower controls...it will only work with that button pushed. I don't see my new 3" tubing filling with fluid...just a lil bit in there. Might need to be bled, but I'd think it would work a little bit. Any ideas until I can find a manual? Basic bleeding procedure? Manual? 
~Kap't K


----------



## wheelloader123

*HiRanger Trouble*

I'll see if I can help. I've had a number of these units and have addressed just about every issue you can have with them. It does sound like you need to bleed the lines. Also, the lines may haved cracked (generally at the knuckle). As for your replacement tubing, is it "exactly" like the existing tubing or is it more "flexible"? Sometimes people will unknowingly replace it with the more elastic, plastic tubing which can expand and "absorb" the pressure of the line, causing the fluid not to actuate the lower valve.


----------



## Kaptain_K

*Re: tubing*

Matter of fact, the new tubing is slightly thinner (so slightly larger i.d.) and a bit more flexible. The existing tubing is so firm it feels brittle...and I'm sure it is. The new tubing is rated at 175psi...right off the Ace Hardware store shelf. Again tho, I only replaced a 3" piece that had been previously patched in at the bottom of the joystick. 
How does one go about bleeding the system? I'll snap some photos soon.


----------



## Kaptain_K

*Photos*

Maybe these will help a bit. Here you can see the short piece of tube i tried to patch. Also, there is a filler-type square plug on the joystick housing and also a wing-nut type knob on each side of each of the 3 lower control levers on the truck. I assume these are where you'd bleed from?


----------



## zsteinmetz

*bleeding the lines*

Yes that is where you need to bleed the line from. Engage the pump and stand the upper and lower boom straight up. Crack the wing nut on the function that is not working properly and wait until no air comes out. This may take a few times and oil will come out so have a small pail handy. I also have a manual i would sell. Pm me if your interested.


----------



## Kaptain_K

*Joystick fun*

Welp, that didn't work. I can't seem to get any action or sound at all when I pull the safety trigger on the joystick. I tried a temporary vacuum hose with no luck. When I pull the trigger I can feel a push of air coming out which should enable the stick. Wonder how to check that vacuum actuated switch on the other end of the hose? It seems like that is dead. It is wired in with the push-button safety switch on the main controls, and that works fine...but it is a separate box. Think I'll go fix something else and come back to it...story of my life.


----------



## meadowstruck

Kaptain_K said:


> Welp, that didn't work. I can't seem to get any action or sound at all when I pull the safety trigger on the joystick. I tried a temporary vacuum hose with no luck. When I pull the trigger I can feel a push of air coming out which should enable the stick. Wonder how to check that vacuum actuated switch on the other end of the hose? It seems like that is dead. It is wired in with the push-button safety switch on the main controls, and that works fine...but it is a separate box. Think I'll go fix something else and come back to it...story of my life.


 
That unit does not work on vacuum. The trigger in the pistol grip actually sends a small amount of low pressure air down the 1/8" spaghetti line to the the lower control valve. This air pressure shifts the main pressure valve and allows high pressure hydraulic flow up to the bucket controls. This functions as the "deadman" switch. Try applying a VERY small amount of pressure to the 1/8" line coming from under the pistol grip joystick trigger...like about 2 to 4 psi. (and no, you cant blow into and have it work either...don't ask how I know.) We apply a low pressure regulator from the shop air compressor set to 3 psi to this line to keep it activated temporarily so we can troubleshoot the upper controls.

If the unit goes to working, then it's a problem in the trigger, the small air diaphragm inside the joystick, or the air line running down to the lower control valve. The palm button at the lower controls is just a mechanical override of this air system.

I attached a parts breakdown of that joystick from a 1990 6H-65PBI Hi-Ranger.


----------



## pro94lt

Kaptain_K said:


> Maybe these will help a bit. Here you can see the short piece of tube i tried to patch. Also, there is a filler-type square plug on the joystick housing and also a wing-nut type knob on each side of each of the 3 lower control levers on the truck. I assume these are where you'd bleed from?



So do i bleed it from the bucket or the lower controls??? My side shift is moving slow... I can see when in the bucket it is just moving the lower controls enough to slowly move me. Help please


----------

