# Bobcat Pivot pin replacement



## gink595

Well today I decided that I needed to get out and work on the pivot pins on my Bobcat. They have been getting a bit sloppy and alot of movement that shouldn't be there. I've heard that if you let it go to long and it wears through the bushing it becomes a major rework rather than replace a bushing and pin. I went to the dealer this morning and bought new pins, bushing and the updated dust seal and cap. 170.00 dollars later I left with all the crap to fix it. I couldn't find any information on the net that really showed how the pins come out, from the outside it looks a bit confusing how it comes apart but once you get the pin losened from the taper it comes apart very easy. If I have one complaint about the Bobcats (at least this model) is the weak design of these pivot pins, I think they are very weak and too light for all the load it takes.

Here is some pics that show it all apart and the wear it has.







Here is a new pin compared to the old ones, they weren't as bad as I thought but still needed replaced.


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## gink595

Here is the bushing in the attach plate, you can see the grooves in that as well. They are easy to knock out and replace.





You can see the tapered hole in the lift arm.






Here is the new pin setting in the taper with the updated dust cap and seal, which it didn't have originally.







While I have this all aprat I'm going to repaint the lower lift arms, there was alot of rust staring due to the paint chipping. I hit with a 80 grit soft disc and will get some paint get it painted.


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## tawilson

Threads like this are great. Thanks for taking the time.


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## gink595

tawilson said:


> Threads like this are great. Thanks for taking the time.



Yeah, thanks! I looked and looked for something on the net that showed how this came apart, it had me confused on how it looks altogether, but after realizing the grease zerk end is just a simple cap and not part of the actual pin it all the sudden made lots of sense. I figured I'd share my work so the next guy looking for something will be able to see how it comes apart. I should post pics of it altogether now that is done.


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## sawinredneck

The easiest way to get them out is to unscrew the bolt half way out and smack the bolt with a sledge hammer, just make sure the threads are clean and turn free before you do this, it can be a bear to get the bolt out once the pin is out of the taper. Had this happen once or twice.
When putting them back in line up the hole with the pin and grease the zerk. the grease will push the pin out so you can get the bolt started.


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## gink595

sawinredneck said:


> The easiest way to get them out is to unscrew the bolt half way out and smack the bolt with a sledge hammer, just make sure the threads are clean and turn free before you do this, it can be a bear to get the bolt out once the pin is out of the taper. Had this happen once or twice.
> When putting them back in line up the hole with the pin and grease the zerk. the grease will push the pin out so you can get the bolt started.



Yeah that is how I did it. Ya know I tried earlier in the summer when it was warm out and they wouldn't budge. I tried again come late fall and they popped right out with the first hit. Putting them in I just slide them in the taper and tightened them up, then I put the cap on and greased it up. Dealer told me not to grease anything until it was tightened up. They said that it would never tighten on the taper if you did it in the reverse order.


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## komatsuvarna

I believe thats a weak spot on all of em Frank. We've had Bobcat, case, New Holland, and now Deere, seems like they all wear out there pretty quick. The 450 series case was actually worse and faster than the others, at 300 hours it was floppy and rackety as hell.


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## gink595

komatsuvarna said:


> I believe thats a weak spot on all of em Frank. We've had Bobcat, case, New Holland, and now Deere, seems like they all wear out there pretty quick. The 450 series case was actually worse and faster than the others, at 300 hours it was floppy and rackety as hell.



No kidding? 300 hours? I guess I won't ##### at 1200 hrs. It seems that pin should be a larger diameter and longer.


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## komatsuvarna

Yep 300 hours, I think they was some kind of recall on the Case though,,,, been in 07 cant remember exactly....

No doubt the bob-tach takes some abuse on them pins though.


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## gink595

komatsuvarna said:


> Yep 300 hours, I think they was some kind of recall on the Case though,,,, been in 07 cant remember exactly....
> 
> No doubt the bob-tach takes some abuse on them pins though.



And it doesn't help they are kind of a pain to get to with a bucket on to grease, they probably only get greased about about 1 out of 3 times compared to all of the other grease points :hmm3grin2orange: They need to make extensions so you can get to them when the bucket is on the ground. The other basturd to get is the lower zerk on the arm lift cylinder where you have to guess at where it might be and hope it is on all the way.


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## Jkebxjunke

I am guessing that you strike the bolt on the small end of the taper and drive it inward toward the other arm? I have an S160 and the arrangement looks the same... except my lift arms are the straight ones and don't have the hump/arch in the back. .. and the power bobtach...


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## komatsuvarna

gink595 said:


> And it doesn't help they are kind of a pain to get to with a bucket on to grease, they probably only get greased about about 1 out of 3 times compared to all of the other grease points :hmm3grin2orange: They need to make extensions so you can get to them when the bucket is on the ground. The other basturd to get is the* lower zerk on the arm lift cylinder* where you have to guess at where it might be and hope it is on all the way.



Oh ya, I remember that one!!! The one that has a little hole cut ya have to stick the grease hose in and feel around......then when ya pull it off ya get grease all over ever damn thing!!


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## gink595

Jkebxjunke said:


> I am guessing that you strike the bolt on the small end of the taper and drive it inward toward the other arm? I have an S160 and the arrangement looks the same... except my lift arms are the straight ones and don't have the hump/arch in the back. .. and the power bobtach...



Yup! The other end will have what looks like the other end of the pin with a cir-clip holding it in place. Take the cir-clip out and the grease zerk and hit the bolt and it will eventually start to drive out. I was using a 15lb. sledge to drive it. Took a couple good wacks and out it came, but it was cold out. I didn't have the same results when it was 90* out, them things wouldn't budge.


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## gink595

komatsuvarna said:


> Oh ya, I remember that one!!! The one that has a little hole cut ya have to stick the grease hose in and feel around......then when ya pull it off ya get grease all over ever damn thing!!



Yeah that mother ####er! You open the rear door and see about half a tube of grease squeezed out! I can get to the right side with the door open but the battery is in the way on the left.


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## komatsuvarna

gink595 said:


> Yeah that mother ####er! You open the rear door and see about half a tube of grease squeezed out! I can get to the right side with the door open but the battery is in the way on the left.



yup, Dad had one just like yours for a long time, had 5600 hours on it when it left... good machine.


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## Jkebxjunke

gink595 said:


> Yup! The other end will have what looks like the other end of the pin with a cir-clip holding it in place. Take the cir-clip out and the grease zerk and hit the bolt and it will eventually start to drive out. I was using a 15lb. sledge to drive it. Took a couple good wacks and out it came, but it was cold out. I didn't have the same results when it was 90* out, them things wouldn't budge.



wonder if you did it when its cold.. but took a propane torch to heat the surrounding metal a bit .... might help some... I am sure the cold helped alot


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## sawinredneck

gink595 said:


> Yeah that is how I did it. Ya know I tried earlier in the summer when it was warm out and they wouldn't budge. I tried again come late fall and they popped right out with the first hit. Putting them in I just slide them in the taper and tightened them up, then I put the cap on and greased it up. Dealer told me not to grease anything until it was tightened up. They said that it would never tighten on the taper if you did it in the reverse order.



The dealership I worked for (White Star Wichita KS) taught me to install them that way, funny how that works! I think they just make it up as it goes!


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