# Calks



## 4x4American (Jan 14, 2013)

I gotta buy a pair of calks, want something good enough to last awhile that won't break the bank. I did a bit of reading old threads and I still don't think I have enough info. I'm planning on ordering them online. Any recommendations of a reputable site to go through that sells the boot I'm looking for? I found these, anyone have anything to say about the boots and the website? 10" 9000 Leather Calk Boot - Hoffman Boots - For all your Boot Needs I liked the Meindl's also but they don't have my size (13 wide) Also where to get ubenhauf boot grease?

Thanks! 
Doug


----------



## mdavlee (Jan 14, 2013)

I have a pair of hoffman smoke chasers. They're a nice well made boot. Baileys should have the obenaufs.


----------



## TreeGuyHR (Jan 14, 2013)

Gota pair of Hoffman Calks. Work just fine. Some other brands are taller or have more of a built up heel. I have even used mine doing take downs after an ice storm -- you just unscrew two spikes for the bar on your hooks. Worked great!


----------



## KenJax Tree (Jan 14, 2013)

I have Wesco JobMaster and i love them they're very comfy even when wearing spurs, they have boots called Timber that have calks on them but i've never worn them but i assume they're comfy as well. These boots are $$$ but a good pair of comfy boots are priceless IMO.


----------



## madhatte (Jan 14, 2013)

Hoffman's are a good bang for the buck. Same goes for Nick's.


----------



## twochains (Jan 14, 2013)

I have the Hoffman Fallers. I lucked out and got some 2nds that were expected to loose a couple calks do to something with the rubber??? I have lost one in each boot...no big deal and I got them for a HELLUVA price!


----------



## Gologit (Jan 14, 2013)

If you want come calks that don't cost an arm and a leg try Bailey's. I bought a pair to wear while my new Wescos were being built. I was surprised at how good they were for the price.

That might be your best bet until you get some money made. I know quite a few guys that wear them as their regular boot. They last a couple of seasons, sometimes more.


----------



## 4x4American (Jan 14, 2013)

Thanks for all the replys! Those 10" 9000 hoffmans look decent, on the heel options it gives two options- spring or block, what does that mean and what's preferred?

to gologit- which baileys boots did you get?


----------



## Gologit (Jan 14, 2013)

4x4American said:


> Thanks for all the replys! Those 10" 9000 hoffmans look decent, on the heel options it gives two options- spring or block, what does that mean and what's preferred?
> 
> to gologit- which baileys boots did you get?



Just the plain old calks, not the climber model. I think they're called Red Dawg calks.


----------



## 4x4American (Jan 14, 2013)

Gologit said:


> Just the plain old calks, not the climber model. I think they're called Red Dawg calks.



Thank you sir


----------



## 4x4American (Jan 14, 2013)

Just ordered the Red Dawg calks from Baileys, they say you can return if they dont fit so I went for it. 

A coworker told me that everytime he gets a new pair of leather boots first thing he does is fill up a container of water, put on his boots, and step in the water with the boots on fer a spell, says that they conform right to your feet and he lives by that. I havent tried it yet, maybe on a cheap pair of carolinas I might try it out


----------



## mile9socounty (Jan 14, 2013)

I have 3 pair of corks. Hoffman Danner that is insulated. Really nice in the rain and snow. Had them for 4 years now and still holding together. A pair of Wesco's I found under a buddies porch. All light grain leather so I use them in the summer when needed. Stiff as hell but that's what I like. The last pair I just got from a buddy. A pair of buffalo's. They need to be resoled but the stitching on them is mint. From what I gather from my friend is they are roughly 6 years old.


----------



## Gologit (Jan 14, 2013)

4x4American said:


> Just ordered the Red Dawg calks from Baileys, they say you can return if they dont fit so I went for it.
> 
> A coworker told me that everytime he gets a new pair of leather boots first thing he does is fill up a container of water, put on his boots, and step in the water with the boots on fer a spell, says that they conform right to your feet and he lives by that. I havent tried it yet, maybe on a cheap pair of carolinas I might try it out



Some guys do that, walk in the creek 'till they're soaked through, but I hate wet feet so I never tried it.

Grease them up good. I like Obenauf's wax but everybody has their own favorite.

One tip on the new boots...carry a few bandaids with you while you're breaking them in. At the first sign, and I mean the very first sign, of a sore spot on your foot stop and put a little bandaid on. Don't wait for a blister to form.


----------



## Rounder (Jan 14, 2013)

When you get a little coin in your pocket, get some Vibergs...you'll save money in the long run.


----------



## redprospector (Jan 14, 2013)

4x4American said:


> Just ordered the Red Dawg calks from Baileys, they say you can return if they dont fit so I went for it.
> 
> A coworker told me that everytime he gets a new pair of leather boots first thing he does is fill up a container of water, put on his boots, and step in the water with the boots on fer a spell, says that they conform right to your feet and he lives by that. I havent tried it yet, maybe on a cheap pair of carolinas I might try it out



I soak my new boots in water, but you need to wear them until they're dry. If not you probably had wet feet for nothing, and will need to do it over again. That's why I hate getting boots in the winter, I'll just break them in the "hard" way in the winter.

Andy


----------



## 4x4American (Jan 14, 2013)

Gologit said:


> Some guys do that, walk in the creek 'till they're soaked through, but I hate wet feet so I never tried it.
> 
> Grease them up good. I like Obenauf's wax but everybody has their own favorite.
> 
> One tip on the new boots...carry a few bandaids with you while you're breaking them in. At the first sign, and I mean the very first sign, of a sore spot on your foot stop and put a little bandaid on. Don't wait for a blister to form.




I used to always use that red wing oil or mink oil, but since reading about the rage of obenhaufs well i have to try it so i ordered myself some from baileys. Hopefully it works cause them red dawgs aint water proof and I sure do hate wet feet just as much as the next guy. Have never tried the bandaid idea, I've been wearing boots since I could walk and I've got some real thick spots of rock hard skin on my feet in the rub areas, proberly from years of cheapo stanley and caterpillar boots


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 14, 2013)

Sno seal seems like it repels water longer than obeanofs or however you spell it.


----------



## paccity (Jan 14, 2013)

on new boots i like to rub them down with saddle soap then hit them with Obenauf's. the soap softens them up nice.


----------



## bitzer (Jan 14, 2013)

I wore the Hoffman pacs last winter and am wearing them this winter. Real nice boot. Light and they keep warm. I bought the Madsen calks (Whites) when they were on sale last summer. They are built like tanks and I'm sure will last a long time, but they feel like it too. They were like $200 at the time.


----------



## northmanlogging (Jan 14, 2013)

got a pair of 13-14 ee Vibergs that don't fit me, non replaceable spikes that are very sharp, boots are hardly worn, I make ya a hell of a deal... need laces though, pm me and we can argue about details if'n you're interested...


----------



## mile9socounty (Jan 14, 2013)

For grease I use the Hoffman non-petrol based stuff. Says it doesn't eat away at the gore tex lining. I dont know about yall, but I like having dry feet at the end of the day. Never tried the O brand, haven't ran out of my first tub.


----------



## OlympicYJ (Jan 15, 2013)

Used both Obenaufs oil and paste. The oil is good for breaking in a boot cause it soaks in like crazy. I tried the paste first and thought it was great but then tried the oil and In my opinion it works equally well if not better at repelling water. Maybe because the leather is completely soaked with the oil, whatever it is it seems to work well. Just seems like the paste wears off pretty quick... The oil also keeps the leather nice and limber and keeps it from cracking better than the paste.

Hubbards is pretty good stuff as well.

Wes


----------



## slowp (Jan 15, 2013)

Be sure to buy some replacement calks too.


----------



## TreeGuyHR (Jan 15, 2013)

Don't forget a boot drier -- the weird plastic thing made of two tubes on a little stand. Plug it in, and warm air oozes up and into the boots; dries them slowly overnight every time. Take the removable insoles out first. If the boots didn't come with a pair, get some Dr. Schols -- your feet stay warmer and the arch is supported and cushioned.


----------



## RandyMac (Jan 15, 2013)

I did the cup of hot water in each boot and walked them dry, it worked well enough. My first set of calks were Buffalos, they were pretty much shredded in a year, they did see a lot of very hard use and went to several fires, I think that accelerated the wear. I went with White's after that, needed a rebuild every other year, I had three pairs in the rotation.
I rarely wore calks in the Sierras, too much rocky ground.


----------



## 4x4American (Jan 15, 2013)

Good input everyone!

Question- this job requires falling and equipment operation, I think it'd gonna be a little weird driving a skidder or a forwarder or a feller buncher with calks no?


----------



## 4x4American (Jan 15, 2013)

TreeGuyHR said:


> Don't forget a boot drier -- the weird plastic thing made of two tubes on a little stand. Plug it in, and warm air oozes up and into the boots; dries them slowly overnight every time. Take the removable insoles out first. If the boots didn't come with a pair, get some Dr. Schols -- your feet stay warmer and the arch is supported and cushioned.



oh believe you me i got one and love it


----------



## Gologit (Jan 15, 2013)

4x4American said:


> Good input everyone!
> 
> Question- this job requires falling and equipment operation, I think it'd gonna be a little weird driving a skidder or a forwarder or a feller buncher with calks no?



More than a little. If you're going to be on a machine all day you need a plain sole...Vibram or something similar.


----------



## 4x4American (Jan 15, 2013)

Gologit said:


> More than a little. If you're going to be on a machine all day you need a plain sole...Vibram or something similar.



yea reckon ill wear my chippewars if im gonna be operatin all day. I'll have to see how it goes with that company, bossman said everyone runs everything so I dont know how that works only time will tell...definitely wont be driving my truck out there in my calks haha


----------



## Gologit (Jan 15, 2013)

If I'm falling and I have to move my pickup I just move it, calks and all. I might have to move the pickup two or three times a day and messing with boots takes too much time. I keep an old mudflap on the floorboards and as long as you're careful you won't scratch up the pedals too much.

Also, a piece of plywood in the bed and a piece on the inside of the tailgate helps a lot.


----------



## 4x4American (Jan 15, 2013)

Gologit said:


> If I'm falling and I have to move my pickup I just move it, calks and all. I might have to move the pickup two or three times a day and messing with boots takes too much time. I keep an old mudflap on the floorboards and as long as you're careful you won't scratch up the pedals too much.
> 
> Also, a piece of plywood in the bed and a piece on the inside of the tailgate helps a lot.




Yup, I am a firm beliver in plywood for a bed liner. I work outta my truck right now and I have a piece of plywood I keep on the tailgate which makes for a nice workbench. I can also write down part numbers and to do lists and stuff so I like it. Also is helpful to keep a spare key under the plywood.


----------



## 1270d (Jan 15, 2013)

Do any of the boot companies you folks mentiioned offer a kevlar lined boot? Reason im asking is because our insurance co requires chainsaw ops to wear kevlar footwear. Whether that be kev socks or boots. I hate the socks so boots are the route I've gone. Matterhorn are what I've worn but from what you people have said it looks like I get really poor life out of them. Maybe a year and a half constant sawing.

Any recommendations?


----------



## OlympicYJ (Jan 15, 2013)

I've worn calks all day long in a truck. Scratches the metal by the door seal but it's no biggie, floor mats keep em from screwin up the floorboard. Get to the first job then put em on and leave em on till visited the last landing for the day then take em off for the drive back to the office. Your calks can stick on the rubber sometimes so takes gettin used to.

I've tried runin the old mans excavator with em on and like they've said go vibram.


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 15, 2013)

It's always fun to bust your ass in the middle of McDonalds, or the grocery store.


----------



## RandyMac (Jan 15, 2013)

Old time taverns had plank floors, so did some grocery stores.


----------



## redprospector (Jan 15, 2013)

RandyMac said:


> Old time taverns had plank floors, so did some grocery stores.



Yep. The Western Bar here had plank floors....and a sign at the door that read; *NO CALKS!* 
Since there isn't much logging around here anymore they covered the planks with carpet. The bartender used to just mop up blood spots after closing on Saturday nights. I wonder how they do it with carpet? Maybe there isn't much fighting around here anymore either. 

Andy


----------



## mile9socounty (Jan 15, 2013)

RandyMac said:


> Old time taverns had plank floors, so did some grocery stores.



My Aunt and Uncle still allow folks to wear the corks in their story. Though the pavement leading up to the store can be difficult.


----------



## slowp (Jan 15, 2013)

It takes about two years to rub the rubber off the pedals in the pickup. When I got the new Chevy at work, one of the head honchos from the Portland office came up, said, look, new pickup, and scraped his calk on the part that gets all scratched up inside the door. 

I did a lot of driving with them on because it took too much time to change. They never stuck at a bad time. Also, wearing calks made me feel better when having to stop to talk to strange tourist/hunters/woodcutters along the way. A logger told me the secret of fighting with calks on. 

The businesses here all used to have No Calks, No Guns, No Knives on their doors. Things were rowdier then.


----------



## wowzers (Jan 15, 2013)

I wouldn't buy Whites. Mine fell apart in just over four months of hooking. Took them to Spokane and despite their one year warranty they said they were excessively worn and I would have to pay half of the rebuild. We are talking both heel counter ripped off, the sole delaminated, and one was completely walked over. The repairs gal kept telling me how they were such a great deal because they could be rebuilt. I said " I'm into these boots over five hudred dollars and now it going to cost me another couple hundred to rebuild. What part of a good deal is that?" I finally argued my way to paying for the resole and they fix the rest but still felt like I got ripped off.


I could have bought three pairs of Hoffmans for what I've paid I at least got a full year out of the Hoffman's even if they are a Guantanamo Bay torture device.


----------



## northmanlogging (Jan 15, 2013)

hears a pic for ya... couldn't post these in a pm...


----------



## Island Faller (Jan 24, 2013)

Rounder said:


> When you get a little coin in your pocket, get some Vibergs...you'll save money in the long run.



Here on Vancouver Island it's pretty simple, Vibergs, 105's water buffalo, I get them to do a urethane sole, superior boot that go forever


----------



## KYLogger (Jan 24, 2013)

Anybody wanna make a donation to "Budget Zero Logging" (as I am considering renaming my outfit) The week of frozen solid ground has been great for the equipment but hell on maintaining a vertical stance on the side of a mountain! Equipment also badly needed; a newer skidder, skidder chains, additional chainsaws, labor, but anything would be awsome, half used cans of ether, saw chain with at least one more sharpening before tooth decapitation, almost worn out files (see previous statement) 

See I have thought this out, gypo logging being almost a "not for profit" endeavor should qualify you all for a nice tax write off as well as peace of mind knowing you kept a few more woods bums going for another month or two


----------



## northmanlogging (Jan 24, 2013)

KYLogger said:


> Anybody wanna make a donation to "Budget Zero Logging" (as I am considering renaming my outfit) The week of frozen solid ground has been great for the equipment but hell on maintaining a vertical stance on the side of a mountain! Equipment also badly needed; a newer skidder, skidder chains, additional chainsaws, labor, but anything would be awsome, half used cans of ether, saw chain with at least one more sharpening before tooth decapitation, almost worn out files (see previous statement)
> 
> See I have thought this out, gypo logging being almost a "not for profit" endeavor should qualify you all for a nice tax write off as well as peace of mind knowing you kept a few more woods bums going for another month or two



thats a full boat sir... I just haven't had the guts to quit my day job yet... I'm saving all my used files some day I want to forge weld them together and make a big ugly knife out of em


----------



## mile9socounty (Jan 24, 2013)

I have a few dried out cans of chew I can donate. A ton of chains ran past the point where the teeth come off. Though I'd have to dig through my 55 gallon drum to find them. How about some 28" Stihl bars that you could probably run 3/4" chain through? Have about 30 of them. :spam:


----------



## KYLogger (Jan 24, 2013)

I've never forge welded for knife material but I have made several knives out of files, and I have found that the newer files are just case hardened and make for crap material as far as tempering and edge holding capability. I haven't used chainsaw files so I ain't quite sure about the quality of steel. I did see where a guy forge welded chainsaw chain together to make a knife, kinda like damascus. I might have seen it here come to think.

Ahh.......It's just life in the woods! And I love it, like the log buyer at one of the mills said "chicken today, feathers the next"  

I did manage score a set of used chains for the skidder for $300!! And I have a PILE of used up chains and files I would donate to any interested metallurgists. LOL


----------



## ft. churchill (Jan 24, 2013)

I don't know about oberhauff's shoe grease, But sno seal works great and does not soften the leather. It stuffs the pores of the leather with a bees wax compound. Also had good luck with Hubbard's shoe grease. It's a old timer's favorite.


----------



## KYLogger (Jan 24, 2013)

mile9socounty said:


> I have a few dried out cans of chew I can donate. A ton of chains ran past the point where the teeth come off. Though I'd have to dig through my 55 gallon drum to find them. How about some 28" Stihl bars that you could probably run 3/4" chain through? Have about 30 of them. :spam:



On the chew what kind? (awww....what the hell who cares)

Regarding the chains do you still have the teeth so I can weld em back on and build em up and reshape em?

And the bars, I don't see why a couple of shims and a wire welder wouldn't fix em up good as new!

That all should be worth about $2.83 in tax deductions.


ROTFLMAO!!!


----------



## mile9socounty (Jan 24, 2013)

KYLogger said:


> On the chew what kind? (awww....what the hell who cares)
> 
> Regarding the chains do you still have the teeth so I can weld em back on and build em up and reshape em?
> 
> ...



Mostly Griz Green, a few of Cope long cut and even less more that are mixed??? Found one old can in my '67 High Boy that's been there since '02.

No sir, don't have the teeth left. There spread out all over Southern Douglas County. I could check the bottom of my chaps to see if there are a few trapped in there.

All I could do is laugh about your bar comment. I actually know a few fella's that would try that. Haven't figured out what I'm going to do with them quite yet. Make up some jig to sharpen chains on probably. Or scrap them. Some of them I could have ground out to 063 gauge and run since that's what I run. Others look like the front sight post of an M16.


----------



## slowp (Jan 24, 2013)

KYLogger said:


> Anybody wanna make a donation to "Budget Zero Logging" (as I am considering renaming my outfit) The week of frozen solid ground has been great for the equipment but hell on maintaining a vertical stance on the side of a mountain! Equipment also badly needed; a newer skidder, skidder chains, additional chainsaws, labor, but anything would be awsome, half used cans of ether, saw chain with at least one more sharpening before tooth decapitation, almost worn out files (see previous statement)
> 
> See I have thought this out, gypo logging being almost a "not for profit" endeavor should qualify you all for a nice tax write off as well as peace of mind knowing you kept a few more woods bums going for another month or two



All I can offer is "original expression of emotions" which probably shouldn't be said and definitely not typed here. The planets must be misalligned and the tides at a 12.5 foot level and only in months ending in consenants, not vowels except for Y.


----------



## 4x4American (Jan 28, 2013)

mile9socounty said:


> Mostly Griz Green, a few of Cope long cut and even less more that are mixed??? Found one old can in my '67 High Boy that's been there since '02.
> 
> No sir, don't have the teeth left. There spread out all over Southern Douglas County. I could check the bottom of my chaps to see if there are a few trapped in there.
> 
> All I could do is laugh about your bar comment. I actually know a few fella's that would try that. Haven't figured out what I'm going to do with them quite yet. Make up some jig to sharpen chains on probably. Or scrap them. Some of them I could have ground out to 063 gauge and run since that's what I run. Others look like the front sight post of an M16.



Ever had stokers? Love that stuff, made right in louisville KY. They gotta lotta different styles being shipped up here, my favorites been mint long cut. Been through a metric #### ton of them tubs. I switched from cope original, to cope wintergreen, to grizzly wintergreen, to stokers mint and I've been on stokers mint for a couple ten tubs now.. $12/tub which is 10-11 cans or so. got two tubs in ky at the national farm machinery show for $2 a piece, I was happier than a clam at high tide. Small gas stations try to sell em for like $35 a whack. I get mine from the indian reservation for $12. now im done pretending to be a stokers salesman


----------



## mile9socounty (Jan 28, 2013)

Ive never heard of that Jazz man. I could ask the local smoke shop about it. But I'd end up paying more for it than I do grizz. Right now I'm paying 4.25$ per can of grizz. If I wanted to go low, I could buy some Longhorn for 2.55$ a can. Its kind of hard to find logs around here that have more than 5 cans in them. A friend of mine worked for the company as a mech. Use to make runs to CA to pick up chew. Cheaper down there than up here. The border is 100 miles south of my exit.


----------



## 4x4American (Jan 29, 2013)

mile9socounty said:


> Ive never heard of that Jazz man. I could ask the local smoke shop about it. But I'd end up paying more for it than I do grizz. Right now I'm paying 4.25$ per can of grizz. If I wanted to go low, I could buy some Longhorn for 2.55$ a can. Its kind of hard to find logs around here that have more than 5 cans in them. A friend of mine worked for the company as a mech. Use to make runs to CA to pick up chew. Cheaper down there than up here. The border is 100 miles south of my exit.



Its wayyy better than longhorn, I like it way better than grizzly too. They come in a tub with a pocket carry can inside, It's similar to a can of coffee grinds. I usually just keep the tub in my pickemup truck and a can of it in my back pocket.


----------

