# wood splitter hydraulic valve



## willt1981 (Jan 19, 2009)

I have troy blit LS27 with a honda engine that I've been running for three years. I use it alot, I probably split 50 cords a year to sell, and it has worked great. This year the automatic return started messing up. It would kick off at random times before the cylinder had been fully retracted. Eventually it wouldn't work at all. Like an idiot I took the valve apart to see what was inside. Needless to say things went flying into the wood pile. It seems like the return works by seating some sort of bb looking balls into a grove in the cylinder cap by way of a spring (this is an Energy valve). Either way, I no longer have all the bb looking balls and no incling how to put it back together properly. I put it back together and it works but obviously without the auto-return, which I've gotten very used to. My question is - can someone rebuild this valve or is a new one in order? Which leads to the next question of should I buy a troy bilt valve ($215 w/o shipping) or a generic one from northern hydraulic ($80 w/o shipping)? Thoughts?


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## AKKAMAAN (Jan 19, 2009)

willt1981 said:


> I have troy blit LS27 with a honda engine that I've been running for three years. I use it alot, I probably split 50 cords a year to sell, and it has worked great. This year the automatic return started messing up. It would kick off at random times before the cylinder had been fully retracted. Eventually it wouldn't work at all. Like an idiot I took the valve apart to see what was inside. Needless to say things went flying into the wood pile. It seems like the return works by seating some sort of bb looking balls into a grove in the cylinder cap by way of a spring (this is an Energy valve). Either way, I no longer have all the bb looking balls and no incling how to put it back together properly. I put it back together and it works but obviously without the auto-return, which I've gotten very used to. My question is - can someone rebuild this valve or is a new one in order? Which leads to the next question of should I buy a troy bilt valve ($215 w/o shipping) or a generic one from northern hydraulic ($80 w/o shipping)? Thoughts?



Buy a Prince valve 3000 Northern Hhydraulic have the same valve..


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## Lloyd H (Jan 19, 2009)

*ball bearings*

If you have any of the BB left measure them with a micrometer and PM me, I probably have some replacements. Can't help reasemble but I might be good for the parts. You can salvage balls from most any ball bearing that hasn't eaten itself. Good chance I'd have a few of the right size.


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## Mike Van (Jan 20, 2009)

You could probably find your missing parts with a magnet or metal detector - If you do & post a picture, I'm sure someone here will be able to tell you how it goes back together. Usually a spring loaded ball sets into a groove on a shaft, pretty simple. Most are adjustable for 'kick out' with a screw that puts more or less pressure on the spring.


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## triptester (Jan 20, 2009)

The reason the valve was working erratic was worn parts . The bbs slide into a groove in a collar, the grooves or bbs are worn. 

Unfortunately it would probably cost more to have someone rebuild it than the cost of a replacement valve which runs $70 to $90. TROY-BUILT uses an Energy brand valve often available at farm supply stores or Ebay under log splitter.


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## willt1981 (Jan 20, 2009)

triptester said:


> The reason the valve was working erratic was worn parts . The bbs slide into a groove in a collar, the grooves or bbs are worn.
> 
> Unfortunately it would probably cost more to have someone rebuild it than the cost of a replacement valve which runs $70 to $90. TROY-BUILT uses an Energy brand valve often available at farm supply stores or Ebay under log splitter.



Thats kind of what I was thinking. Something was wrong to begin with so at the least it would have to be rebuilt. Can you give me a link to where Energy valves are sold? The only thing I can find is the corporate site. I'd like to replace it with the original valve so it wouldnt look so odd if I ever wanted to sell it. Although I'll likely were it out before I'll sell it. Thanks for the help.


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## triptester (Jan 21, 2009)

There is a Speeco valve on Ebay right now for $69.00 +$6.00 shipping .This valve should match the Energy valve.


http://cgi.ebay.com/SPEECO-HYDROLIC...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:4|294:50


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## AKKAMAAN (Jan 21, 2009)

triptester said:


> There is a Speeco valve on Ebay right now for $69.00 +$6.00 shipping .This valve should match the Energy valve.
> 
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/SPEECO-HYDROLIC...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:4|294:50



This Speeco valve, don't have a built in relief valve. If your current valve have a built in relief valve, MAKE SURE you buy a new valve with built in relief valve.


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## Mike Van (Jan 21, 2009)

It doesn't say it's for an open center system either, I'd pass on it -


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## fordmanic01 (Jan 21, 2009)

i replace my Energy value with a Prince 3000. I visted northern where i bought the prince value and I noticed that they have a LS(?)-1 3000 and a LS-2 3000. my LS-1 3000 works OK now. the only problem i have is the Energy value had an auto return and a manual splitter stroke and the Prince is the opposite. auto on the down stroke or splitting stroke. read the other post on this forum about detent value. Just be careful on the splitting sroke since it is auto.


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## Frank Boyer (Jan 21, 2009)

An auto splitting stroke could be very dangerous. You wouldn't want to fall and watch the auto splitting stroke remove your body parts that you might want for later use!!


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## chadincolo (Jan 21, 2009)

triptester said:


> There is a Speeco valve on Ebay right now for $69.00 +$6.00 shipping .This valve should match the Energy valve.
> 
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/SPEECO-HYDROLIC...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:4|294:50



That is an Energy valve, if it truely did come from us, it has the relief valve set at 3100 psi and is open center. A 27 ton should probably have the 3400 psi valve (I'm not 100% sure what Troy Built's are set at, but for a 4 1/2 inch cylinder that's what the valve should be to make 27 tons). Truthfully, you probably wouldn't see the difference or it's not that tough to adjust if you have a hydraulic pressure gauge. It would be a bolt on valve.


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## siearly (May 25, 2012)

I know this is an old thread but I just had a similar problem and others may benefit from what I've learned.

As I only needed a new spring and balls, I was opposed to buying a whole new valve.

You can get the detent parts for this valve from Energy. The detent assembly is $35 on their web site or you can get the whole valve for $85. I also found a supplier of the balls and springs online but didn't know what size to order since I had lost my old parts.

In my case I bought the detent assembly which installed perfectly. But, when I ran the splitter the valve did not work properly. After discussing the problem with Steve at Energy, it turns out I have a Chinese-made knock off of the Energy valve. If your valve does not say Energy on it but it looks just like theirs, you likely have the Chinese version.

In my case I took the balls and spring from the Energy part and retrofitted them to my valve and everything works great. Steve told me an easy way to take things apart and reassemble without loosing the parts again.


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## capetrees (Dec 11, 2015)

I too have a Troybilt LS27. The detent needs to be adjusted but I don't know which screw or bolt to adjust. When I move the handle to reverse, the valve doesn't return automatically to neutral and as a result, I just shattered the couplings.

Anyone have any insight? I don't know the make of the pump either but will look again in the morning.


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## Del_ (Dec 11, 2015)

The valve on my 1989 homemade log splitter was acting up. Instead of chasing parts for a repair......not knowing if changes may have occurred.......I just ordered a whole new valve of the same model number. Northern Tool has $20. coupons available on-line and on the phone ordering got me $20. off on a $99.99 order. I got a little over 25 years out of the original!

The double detent is a huge time saver. I've had mine jury rigged for auto return for a few years now and it works great.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_22089_22089


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## c5rulz (Dec 12, 2015)

Ahh yes, the little ball bearings. 

When I took the valve apart to replace O rings, the little bastages popped out. Spent an hour figuring how to put it back together, Once I did it only took a couple minutes. BTW, they don't need to come out.


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## stiggymatta (Nov 7, 2016)

c5rulz said:


> Ahh yes, the little ball bearings.
> 
> When I took the valve apart to replace O rings, the little bastages popped out. Spent an hour figuring how to put it back together, Once I did it only took a couple minutes. BTW, they don't need to come out.



C5 Or anyone who can help
Hello
I too have the dreaded flying balls when I went to replace the o-ring seals due to leak
I have all the parts just can not figure how to compress the spring with ball bearings to get it to catch back in the groove
Can anyone share the trick to doing this Please
is there a video that shows how it is done
very frustrating to say the least 
I am usually very good at putting things together to get them working again.
my Valve is working fine I just have no return detent (my hand is killing me holding both directions
Thanks so much Look forward to any and all answers/


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## triptester (Nov 7, 2016)

The only tool needed is a 1/4" nut driver. It works best to have the detent facing up when assembling. I had the valve in a vice when assembling.These three pics should help.
Place the spring in first then the large bearing. Put a dab of grease on the small bearings, this will help hold them in place during assembly.With the detent sleeve slid over the nut driver depress the large bearing so the small bearings can be placed in each of the side holes, lower the sleeve to cover the bearings and slowly remove the nut driver.


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## c5rulz (Nov 8, 2016)

Beat me to it Tripster. Great pics.

The little flying balls can lead to much frustration. I figured out the grease thing too, that helps a bunch.


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## muddstopper (Nov 8, 2016)

A true story about lost bearings. Many years ago, a good friend of mine was rebuilding a Muncie 4speed transmission in his yard. As poor as he was back then, neither he nor I had a shop to work in. He had everything torn apart laid out on a piece of cardboard on the ground. He also had a bunch of chickens that ran loose around his place. Chicken came up to where he was working and pecked up one of those needle bearings that goes inside the main shaft to support the tail shaft. Not having any money, not getting that needle bearing back meant not fixing his transmission. He chased that chicken around the yard half a day waiting for it to pop out that bearing. He did get the bearing back and finished rebuilding his transmission. I always thought it was funny, but It goes to show that if you really need something, you will look hard enough to find it.


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