# I want to build a CSM, can you provide pics?



## Freakingstang (Jul 22, 2006)

Just like the title states. I want to build a mill. I have aquired some 1x1 tubing that is somewhat lightweight and I think it would make a good light fixture. Can you guys provide detailed pics of an assembled chain saw mill, such as the alaskan? Also, some differant pics of the way the mill mounts to the saw and or the bar.

Thanks
Steve


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 23, 2006)

There have been a lot of mill pictures in previous threads. What are you looking for? I have many pics I've saved from here as well as some of my GB mill and home made rig. Most are on my other computer though. I can put some up tomorrow if you are looking for something specific.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 24, 2006)

I thought I'd go head and throw a few up here. 

These are of my GB mill.

If I were to build another mill, I'd make a hybrid between the GB, Granberg, my homemade rig (I'll call it the Aggiemill ), and others I've seen.

I like the way the GB attaches to the powerhead. It feels much more solid than the Granberg or Aggiemill does. However, I've never ran a factory Granberg mill, only played with one once. 

I'm not sure there is much benefit to the twin vertical posts design of the GB. I think I would model mine closer to the Granberg or tweak the system I used on the Aggiemill. 

Continued...


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 24, 2006)

I DON'T like the clamping mechanism the GB has on the nose end. (pic 167,172,176) The 2 clamping plates on my mill were not perfectly aligned. It was a minor fabrication error but it caused big headaches. If you look at the pictures closely you can see how this caused the bar to bow upwards. This wasn't a problem with a 42" bar but it caused the chain to jump off a 72" bar repeatedly until I figured out a way to compensate for it. Also, if you are using a sprocket or roller nose bar, you must clamp it to the bar far enough away from the tip so that it doesn't put pressure in a bad place (pic 169). I loose about 6 inches of my bar because of this. 

I like way Rail-o-matic's mills bolt through the nose of the bar at the center of the sprocket bearing. I've never used his setup but it appears you would get the most usable bar with his method.

One thing I will say about the Aggiemill- it's the easiest to mount to the bar of any mill I've seen by far. 4 bolts, no clamps, no sliding the bar into the mill, just slap it on and go... 

That's all I have for now. I'll write more as I think of it.


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## poleframer (Jul 25, 2006)

My .02- I had the clamp on the nose come loose, didnt like it at all. I'd suggest drilling the bar and bolting thru.Takes a sharp drill bit (started the hole with a carbide tip on my die grinder). Dos'nt hurt the bar, but havin the clamp come loose sucks.


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## woodshop (Jul 25, 2006)

Nice job aggie, nice pics and explanations... I agree, the Rail-o-matic way of bolting through the bar seems like the best bang for buck as far as usable bar length. If I get around to building a larger csm as I want to some day, I think that is the way I will go. Everything has a trade-off of course. For guys like you and most of us here, drilling an accurate hole in a bar is no problem, but for some that would be a stumbling block.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 25, 2006)

woodshop said:


> Nice job aggie, nice pics and explanations... I agree, the Rail-o-matic way of bolting through the bar seems like the best bang for buck as far as usable bar length. If I get around to building a larger csm as I want to some day, I think that is the way I will go. Everything has a trade-off of course. For guys like you and most of us here, drilling an accurate hole in a bar is no problem, but for some that would be a stumbling block.




I can admit I had a learning curve to get over the first time I drilled a bar. A carbide masonry bit modified on a diamond grinder is the way to go.

Writing these posts got the 'ol wheel turning. I'll probably be modifying the GB soon.:bang: I can't win for losin'.


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## Freakingstang (Jul 25, 2006)

Aggie, I thank you for the time posting pics. I am a few weeks away before Actually starting the project, but kinda wanted to get some more detailed pics than others I had seen.

I have a couple questions. On the your GB, how is the chain adjustment with the mill mount on the bar studs? That to me, would seem like a PITA. it also appears that you lose a ton of cutting length with that type of mount. Looks like a good 8 inches or so on just the powerhead.

Also, for the height adjustment in the cut, how is that adjusted? 

I see the clamp on the end of your GB bar, but how does it attach? What I mean is, what keeps it tight?

I will probably make mine bolt to the bar, as i have a machine shop next door to me at work, The only issue I see with that, is lost length from the last 4-6 inches of the bar. So for that reason, I would like to make a clamp design, that would actually stay tight. lol.

I am thinking about a 36" mill. I know I could jut go out and buy one, but that would take half of the fun out of it. lol. It isn't like I already have too many things to do, but fabrication is one of my passions. Just got my logstand finished tonight out of scrap from the shop. It isn't the prettiest, but will work well. The steel didn't cost me a dime, so all I have in it is a little time.

Thanks again,

-Steve


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 25, 2006)

Just remembered... the GB roller nose bars already have a 1/4" hole in the center of the bearing. This mod is almost going to be too easy.


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## CaseyForrest (Jul 26, 2006)

Freakingstang said:


> Aggie, I thank you for the time posting pics. I am a few weeks away before Actually starting the project, but kinda wanted to get some more detailed pics than others I had seen.
> 
> I have a couple questions. On the your GB, how is the chain adjustment with the mill mount on the bar studs? That to me, would seem like a PITA. it also appears that you lose a ton of cutting length with that type of mount. Looks like a good 8 inches or so on just the powerhead.
> 
> ...



Steve, you are right, chain adjustment is a PITA. First you loosen the two allen head bolts that hold the mill to the saw, then the two extended bar nuts, slip a longhandled screwdriver(scrench is to short) in while pulling up on the rear handle, and tighten the chain.

Height adjustment comes in the the way of two large black knobs on either tower, with a ruler to let you know what depth you are at.

The clamp on the nose is one allenhead bolt pushing the bar against two extended pieces on the top, like a clamp. I have mine with the bolt in the center of the nose sprocket. No problems, and I only lose 6" in the mill.

I have a GB 36" mill. I dont have any good detailed pictures, and its dark here now. I dont have any plans for the mill anytime soon, if you like, maybe we could work out getting my mill to you so you have some sort of prototype?


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 26, 2006)

Freakinstang: What size saw do you plan to use? It's true there are a few more steps you have to take to adjust chain tension, but once you use it a few time it goes quick. I think the added stability is worth it and you really don't lose any more bar than an Alaskan or a bolted design on this end. A powerhead like an 084 hanging off the end of a bar on it's side makes me nervous but I'm sure others have used similar setups for years with no problems.

Caseyforrest: You need a longer scrench, mine works just fine  What bar are you using? I could clamp at the center of the sprocket on my 42" Stihl bar but I'd be concerned about flexing the steel enough to cause premature wear. Maybe I'm splitting hairs.

Here's a pic of the clamp.


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## CaseyForrest (Jul 26, 2006)

Aggie, I use a Stihl ES, 28" in the mill. The only reason I clamp it where I do is because Im using such a short bar. If I used the 36", Id clamp it back further.

Your scrench must be longer than mine, because mine dont reach!!!


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## carvinmark (Jul 26, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Freakinstang: What size saw do you plan to use? It's true there are a few more steps you have to take to adjust chain tension, but once you use it a few time it goes quick. I think the added stability is worth it and you really don't lose any more bar than an Alaskan or a bolted design on this end. A powerhead like an 084 hanging off the end of a bar on it's side makes me nervous but I'm sure others have used similar setups for years with no problems.
> 
> Caseyforrest: You need a longer scrench, mine works just fine  What bar are you using? I could clamp at the center of the sprocket on my 42" Stihl bar but I'd be concerned about flexing the steel enough to cause premature wear. Maybe I'm splitting hairs.
> 
> Here's a pic of the clamp.



I don't like the idea of my 084 hanging off the end either,sounds like a flex problem to me.
Mark


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## Freakingstang (Jul 26, 2006)

Thanks for the added info guys.

Aggie, I have an 066 I was planning to use, but I have leads on a 084....Like I need another saw, right? lol.

I didn't consider the weight of the saw......Hanging off the end.....

Hmm, More thoughts. 

Thanks
-Steve


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## poleframer (Jul 27, 2006)

A bungee from the handle to the mill carridge works for me. I also like the electric winch I use. Sit back and watch it go, yet close enough to deal with issues or dial the reostat down if the saw is bogging. Suprised others don't winch to get out of the fumes,dust, and pushing.
Russell


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 27, 2006)

poleframer said:


> A bungee from the handle to the mill carridge works for me. I also like the electric winch I use. Sit back and watch it go, yet close enough to deal with issues or dial the reostat down if the saw is bogging. Suprised others don't winch to get out of the fumes,dust, and pushing.
> Russell



Stand by Russell... My rig has yet to be built! HAHAHA I have a file full of sketches and pictures that I'll build mine from (I hope, time is at a premium these days). Your mill pictures are in it too.


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## poleframer (Jul 27, 2006)

Yer right on. Heres a couple of pics from my growing "idea files" that I want to try on my next tractor project. A track-crane w/a 30' boom. Ye-Haw!


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## poleframer (Jul 27, 2006)

Couple others from that file. Got the tracks, an eye on an old cable-run telescopic boom, still need some of the hydraulics, some of the steel, but with some more parts and time.....:biggrinbounce2:


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## carvinmark (Jul 27, 2006)

poleframer said:


> A bungee from the handle to the mill carridge works for me. I also like the electric winch I use. Sit back and watch it go, yet close enough to deal with issues or dial the reostat down if the saw is bogging. Suprised others don't winch to get out of the fumes,dust, and pushing.
> Russell


Why didn't I think of a bungee cord? That sounds like it would work but I'm still going with a different mounting system.
Mark


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## woodshop (Jul 27, 2006)

poleframer said:


> A bungee from the handle to the mill carridge works for me. I also like the electric winch I use. Sit back and watch it go, yet close enough to deal with issues or dial the reostat down if the saw is bogging. Suprised others don't winch to get out of the fumes,dust, and pushing.
> Russell


As for fumes and dust and pushing... I find I have too many issues moving that csm or Ripsaw down the cant, knots needing slow down, part of limb sticking out side etc, that I would think would be a PITA to deal with unless I was hands on. Also would make the csm less portable when taking into the woods. Fumes are a problem since your face is right there above the muffler with saw at full power when milling, but I wear a good fitting dust mask with charcoal filter. I don't even smell exhaust when its on. Once you get used to popping it on and off, its not really that much of a hassle, and it does keep that exhaust and fine dust out of the lungs. I figure 20 years down the road I will thank myself for using it.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 27, 2006)

poleframer said:


> Couple others from that file. Got the tracks, an eye on an old cable-run telescopic boom, still need some of the hydraulics, some of the steel, but with some more parts and time.....:biggrinbounce2:



Boy something like that sure will be handy for moving these 500lb slabs around in the shop. Darn you!!!


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