# Bought a new Poulan Pro 5020 to see what there about



## Modifiedmark

I was thinking about this anyway and was in the store where you "save big money" and stumbled across them walking to the hardware department. They were on sale till the 12th for $179. I didn't even know they carried this model there. 

I was curious to see what these were about and why Poulan/Husqvarna decided to come out with a new and bigger then what they put out in a while 50cc saw. 

Now before I go any farther, all you saw snobs and Poulan haters, read if you want to but I dont want to hear a bunch of BS about Pullons and such. These are low priced consumer saws, no more no less and I just wanted to see what there all about. I doubt if I keep it, I will test it out for a while and then probably move it along but who knows it might be decent and I may keep it around for a while. 

It comes with a decent hard case, manuals and a bottle of Poulan synthetic 2 cycle oil. It also comes with a common K041 mount Oregon laminated 70DL sprocket nosed bar with a Oregon V72 Vanguard chain. Not pro stuff but not bad. The rear handle has a mount to keep the scrench underneath it. It is secured with a metal clip. 

The air filter cover is large and is secured with one thumb screw and lets you get to the filter and plug very easily. The filter is fairly large and pleated and reminds me of the PP 330 style. The only thing that bothers me though is it is only secured at the bottom with a flip up wire clamp. Seems a little loose on the top when secured but a gasket between the filter and base may secure it up some. 

The clutch cover is a metal cover and houses the Husqvarna style chain brake and a conventional front mounted chain adjuster. Not a bad setup. No its not a side adjuster but at least its cover mounted and not hard to get to. 

Pulling all the covers to inspect its innerds only took a T25 torx driver for the recoil cover and a 4mm allan wrench for the top cover. 

The muffler came off with a T27 torx and I was shocked to see a completly hollow tin can, not even a diffuser in it. The top mounted outlet is pretty small in dia though, maybe just a little over 1/2". It should be easy to mod this one.

It appears to be a chrome bore with a single ring piston. 

The 3/8s sprocket is a spur and the clutch is a common looking Poulan style 2 shoe which appears small but this style has been around for many years with good service on up to 60cc models so the clutch dont concern me at all. I dont know at this point if the spur sprocket is model specific yet but I'm betting it might be the same as some other Poulan Pro models like the 330 and maybe a rim setup will fit it. 

I put the empty power head on the scales right away and found its no super light weight as it tipped the scales at 12lbs 6oz and fully loaded with fuel, oil, bar and chain it was 16lbs 8oz. Again were talking a $200 clamshell, strato, consumer saw so I guess the weight isnt awfull. 

It started right up in 3 pulls but like most strato saws I have run it was plenty cold blooded and took a few seconds to warm up some. I was surprised that the carb settings were pretty much right on it seemed and while I attempted to fool with the L screw I ended up returningt it to about the original position. Now this could change when it sees wood, but after warming it up I held it wide open and it seemed to have a little 4 stroking going on and the tach read 13196 RPM. 

The fit and finish of the plastics seem pretty good with everything lining up well and the parts seemed to fit together pretty well. 

I like the fact that the spring mounted antivibe handles seem to be seperate from the engine cradle and it seemed pretty smooth in my hands. The oil and fuel tanks seemed pretty large and had the nice large caps on them. The controls are the common two lever choke and stop lever kinda combined like the Husky 350 etc... 

Now I'm just relaying my first impressions and am trying to be objective here with it. If I see something bad I will point it out but first impressions are not too bad especially if you keep in mind the original price paid for it. 

I'll post a few pictures of it and will try to get it out to the wood pile soon but that probaly wont happen till the weekend as I dont get home before dark most nights.


----------



## Modifiedmark

More pictures


----------



## Modifiedmark

Few more pictures


----------



## Modifiedmark

Last few plus a idleing video.















<embed src="http://img580.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=Phz8" width="640" height="500" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/><br/>
<a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Modifiedmark">[More videos from Modifiedmark]</a>





http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/2083/hz8.mp4


----------



## timmcat

Man the similarities between that and a 445 are scary. Its like Husky put a 445 and a 4620 in a blender turned it on and closed their eyes.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Really? I have never had my hands on a 445 but it wouldnt surprise me.


----------



## jimdad07

Nice post on the Poulan Mark. I would love to see one ported, I bet you could get some good results. It looks pretty well built for the price of it also. Thanks for posting, curious to see how you like it in wood.


----------



## Chris-PA

Great pictures - I'll be looking forward to hear how it runs, and if it ends up requiring any tuning. And of course any muffler mods that may be in its future! It looks like a decent design to me, and hopefully the performance will match.


----------



## ChainsawmanXX

That cheap??? 
I might have to get my hands on one!!
Would love to see it in some wood!


----------



## Vibes

Looks like a new Jonsered that I saw on the shelf at my local shop too. Nice saw!


----------



## jropo

I like it!

I like the air filter cover. 
The scrench holder is just plain clever.
I like the outboard chain adjuster.
No crazy baffles to plug up in the muffler.
Looks like there is some nice meat on the exh.:msp_razz:
Sounds nice out of the box.
Whats the comp?
Adjustable oiler?
You said over 50cc's, how much over?
B/C?


----------



## Modifiedmark

I didnt have time to run the compression test yet, in fact I forgot to. 

I dont think I said it was over 50cc, I meant that 50cc is bigger then what Poulan has sold in a while. 

No the oiler is not adjustable, and it seems to really put alot out on the bar. Just keep in mind, no adjustable oiler, $200 saw.


----------



## sunfish

Looks pretty dang good. Thanks for the review, Mark!


----------



## struggle

I second the liking the wrench holder, it really is something every saw could use.


----------



## jropo

Modifiedmark said:


> I didnt have time to run the compression test yet, in fact I forgot to.
> 
> I dont think I said it was over 50cc, I meant that 50cc is bigger then what Poulan has sold in a while.
> 
> No the oiler is not adjustable, and it seems to really put alot out on the bar. Just keep in mind, no adjustable oiler, $200 saw.



Just thought I'd ask, looks kinda fancy, never know.
Looks like a nice package for $200 I'd buy it.


----------



## Nardoo

Good objective observations Mark, looks like a fine little saw. That muffler does not look like you could give it the easy 3400 treatment, though. I had a Stihl 361 with a muff like that and I drilled holes in the mounting tubes which worked out fine.

Al.


----------



## joe25DA

Great review mark. I had been interested in that saw since I saw it a few months ago. After seeing your review I must say Im impressed, for the price and target market its got to e hard to beat


----------



## Jeff Lary

Mark it really looks like you got your moneys worth,Like the scrench holder top cover and filter set up looks like it's worth every penny ,great review.


----------



## barneyrb

Send that sucker to me and let's open it up and make her run, saw meet foredom.......


----------



## chopperfreak2k1

cool thread. i'm interested to see how it performs. another vote for the scrench holder.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Randy, I want to see how it runs out, then I just might do that!


----------



## 8433jeff

Subscribed.


----------



## cheeves

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> Great pictures - I'll be looking forward to hear how it runs, and if it ends up requiring any tuning. And of course any muffler mods that may be in its future! It looks like a decent design to me, and hopefully the performance will match.


Any of you read that thread where the AS member Down Under ported that Red Max 5000. Said it was better than a 346 and a 260. I bet this saw is not too far off from that. I mean they're probably made side by side and most of the parts are said to be interchangeable. This might just be an alternative to the high priced new saws! Wonder who will be the first to port and MM one?


----------



## cheeves

Modifiedmark said:


> Randy, I want to see how it runs out, then I just might do that!



Do it Mark! Do it! I bet it's like that Red Max 5000!


----------



## importjunk

Watching intently. I've been looking for a cheap truck saw. This may be the one.


----------



## Saw Dr.

Scrench holder is nice! I was hoping they were going to go to a new style of fuel cap sometime. I'm not sure if they have been changed, but I have seen a bunch of older consumer Poulans with those caps that didn't fit properly. Seems like they swell up over time???? I didn't look at the pics closely. Any idea if the air filtration is "super clean" or whatever buzzword they use for inertial separator type? Do the carb mount screws go into plastic or metal?


----------



## WillBrayJr

While I haven't always seen eye to eye with Mark he knows his ####. I've been quite keeping a watch on this model for a while now and as I've mentioned before it seems Poulan has stepped it up a notch. Might even be the model I will choose to Gold&Chrome like the Stihl in the 3rd Texas Chainsaw Massacre movie.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Saw Dr. said:


> Scrench holder is nice! I was hoping they were going to go to a new style of fuel cap sometime. I'm not sure if they have been changed, but I have seen a bunch of older consumer Poulans with those caps that didn't fit properly. Seems like they swell up over time???? I didn't look at the pics closely. Any idea if the air filtration is "super clean" or whatever buzzword they use for inertial separator type? Do the carb mount screws go into plastic or metal?



I know what you mean on caps swelling, and I believe that to be a material combined with ethanol problem, that I have seen affect other brands as well. They seemed to be of a good design. Large enough to get a hold of easily and large holes to pour into. Looks like the cap has the tank vent built into it like a lot of others did.

If a homeowner stores the saw dry, the cap will probably never be a issue, but I'm sure if replacements are ever needed they will be quite inexpensive like most Poulan parts are.

Look at the picture again and you will see a air conductor near the flywheel for the super clean setup and is a nice touch on this type of saw.

I was disappointed to see the plastic intake manifold, but it is what it is. May or may not be a problem.


----------



## Miles86

Thanks for these pictures and the great review, I spent 20 minutes in Lowes looking at this saw until my girlfriend yelled at me. :msp_confused:

I think it's funny that this Poulan has better gas and oil caps than my very expensive Stihl MS440. German over-engineering at it's worst. 

The Poulan garb is handsome, but it looks good in Craftsman garb too.

This is the perfect homeowner/landscaper saw.


----------



## jropo

It even has the "high top" filter design and the little grey and blue 2cyl. oil bottle that I've grown found of.


----------



## FATGUY

was that spring AV that I saw?


----------



## Duke Thieroff

Mark, are you gonna put it to some wood or what?

Don't make me be the guy to drop the first Pool-lawn comment.

Looks like a decent homeowners saw. Happy the see the auto tensioner go out the door, metal clutch cover good too!

Chris


----------



## Chris-PA

FATGUY said:


> was that spring AV that I saw?


Sure - many Poulans and Poulan Pros have had spring A/V for years.


----------



## nick 55

Did you guys read the reviews on Lowe's website? There was seemed to be quite a few good ones, one with a legit problem, and the rest of the bad ones are clearly for a different saw(tool-less chain adjuster?) or people just flat out neglecting the saw. One guy said he let the saw run for 3-4 minutes flat out out of wood! WTF?

Nick


----------



## huskydude

reading those reviews(most) made me want to stab myself.


----------



## Modifiedmark

FATGUY said:


> was that spring AV that I saw?



Yes and where the heck have you been my friend? 



genesis5521 said:


> Don't get me wrong. I like this Poulan, so I went to the Lowes web site to read it's 31 reviews. For what it's worth, they can be found here: Shop Poulan Pro 20" 50cc Gas Chain Saw at Lowes.com
> 
> Don <><



For what its worth? I read a few of those and then decided I'm too old to waste any more of my time of my life on that rubbish. 



Duke Thieroff said:


> Mark, are you gonna put it to some wood or what?
> 
> Don't make me be the guy to drop the first Pool-lawn comment.
> 
> Looks like a decent homeowners saw. Happy the see the auto tensioner go out the door, metal clutch cover good too!
> 
> Chris



Hold on to your darn horse's! Some of us have to work for a living. 

Geeze you must think I'm a politician. :hmm3grin2orange:



nick 55 said:


> Did you guys read the reviews on Lowe's website? There was seemed to be quite a few good ones, one with a legit problem, and the rest of the bad ones are clearly for a different saw(tool-less chain adjuster?) or people just flat out neglecting the saw. One guy said he let the saw run for 3-4 minutes flat out out of wood! WTF?
> 
> Nick



Yeah thats what I seen as well. Nimrods cant even post in the right review and you think I'm going to pay attention to them about a chainsaw?


----------



## Modifiedmark

Ok I did get off earlier today while the sun was shining and got the 5020 out to the wood pile for a few minutes. It starts great and run well also. I really didnt need to even adjust the carb, I tried to richen the high side but then again it ended up about where I started with it. 

As for how it run I got a couple short videos for you to decide. It pulled the bar buried in dead dry Oak better then I thought it would, not blazing fast but not real slow either. 

The smaller piece of wood is really hard stuff. Its a piece of still green White Oak and it did pretty well in it. The Vanguard chain is pretty grabby and I really dont like it as well as I think I would like a .325 20LPX on it. 

Speaking of which I pulled the clutch and spur sproket on it to see if anything would maybe match up with it but man that outside PTO side of the crank is really small in dia. 

Not sure anything else would be a bolt on. I pulled a Poulan 3300 clutch to compare and the clutch drum is the same thickness and diameter but the center bore is much bigger. I guess it would work if you had the right dia race to put on the smaller crank or if you machined out a oilite bushing for it. 

Here it the sprocket picture and the one video, I'll post the other as soon as its ready. 







<embed src="http://img848.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=P3tj" width="320" height="260" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/><br/>
<a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Modifiedmark">[More videos from Modifiedmark]</a>


http://img848.imageshack.us/img848/34/3tj.mp4


----------



## Modifiedmark

Here is the video with the saw in a piece of bigger wood. About 28" worth of Oak and you can see that it shows its a 50cc saw now but still not bad at all. 

I was leaning on it some and it took it pretty well. 

<embed src="http://img215.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=P886i" width="320" height="260" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/><br/>
<a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Modifiedmark">[More videos from Modifiedmark]</a>

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/6035/886i.mp4


----------



## jropo

Thats not bad for a off the shelf big box saw.


----------



## Stihl-Pioneer

Mark, could the drum be basically the same as a pp295 except it has a 3/8 spur on it? I don't recall if the brg is smaller on the 295.


----------



## nick 55

That's what I was thinking also. What does the caliper say when you measure the crankshaft.

Nick


----------



## brages

Any idea on the powerhead weight?


----------



## nick 55

Modifiedmark said:


> I put the empty power head on the scales right away and found its no super light weight as it tipped the scales at 12lbs 6oz and fully loaded with fuel, oil, bar and chain it was 16lbs 8oz. Again were talking a $200 clamshell, strato, consumer saw so I guess the weight isnt awfull.



12-6.

Nick


----------



## brages

Whoops! Thanks!


----------



## Modifiedmark

Stihl-Pioneer said:


> Mark, could the drum be basically the same as a pp295 except it has a 3/8 spur on it? I don't recall if the brg is smaller on the 295.



It is smaller, I had one in my hand last night and it is closer to fitting but the brg inner dia is still a bit larger on the 295 style.


----------



## zogger

How robust does that starter assembly look and feel?


----------



## JimM

zogger said:


> How robust does that starter assembly look and feel?



Mark is the expert, but I will say mine seems to start without much effort on the pull rope. I wouldn't think there would be any problems in that area.


----------



## Modifiedmark

I dont know what kind of question that was by saying robust? 

I pictured the starter cover, typical stuff from consumer and some pro saws. Plastic cover with a plastic pulley etc. It seems to be the way of the world now days. 

Jim did have a good point though it seems this recoil is spring assisted and it does pull over very easy, the large dia pulley probably helps that out as well.


----------



## zogger

Modifiedmark said:


> I dont know what kind of question that was by saying robust?
> 
> I pictured the starter cover, typical stuff from consumer and some pro saws. Plastic cover with a plastic pulley etc. It seems to be the way of the world now days.
> 
> Jim did have a good point though it seems this recoil is spring assisted and it does pull over very easy, the large dia pulley probably helps that out as well.



Thanks. ya besides the picture, just your impression if it looked and felt "solid" and not overly flimsy.

I'm just going by a ton of reviews of previous similar models where people said the starter stripped out or broke, etc. 

That's all, no biggee.


----------



## dswensen

Mark, mine came with no limiter caps on the carb adjusting screws. It looks from the picture that yours didn't either?? Does have the splined carb screws however, but I find I like them once I got the tool. On a running saw, it's much easier to keep the adjusting driver on them as compared to a slotted head.


----------



## JimM

dswensen said:


> Mark, mine came with no limiter caps on the carb adjusting screws. It looks from the picture that yours didn't either?? Does have the splined carb screws however, but I find I like them once I got the tool. On a running saw, it's much easier to keep the adjusting driver on them as compared to a slotted head.



I agree. I find my patience severely tested, and I admit most of mine is gone within minutes of my getting out of bed every day, of trying to get a screw driver on a slotted screw on a dancing saw when i really cant see good anyway.


----------



## rms61moparman

Modifiedmark said:


> Here is the video with the saw in a piece of bigger wood. About 28" worth of Oak and you can see that it shows its a 50cc saw now but still not bad at all.
> 
> I was leaning on it some and it took it pretty well.
> 
> <embed src="http://img215.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=P886i" width="320" height="260" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/><br/>
> <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Modifiedmark">[More videos from Modifiedmark]</a>
> 
> http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/6035/886i.mp4





That actually impressed me Mark!
Now don't get me wrong.....it isn't a 5100/346/261 etc.
But it isn't $400.00-$700.00 either!!!
I am anxious to see what a dremel and a bit of chain juggling would do to that saw!


Mike


----------



## Eccentric

Not bad at all for box-store sub-$200 plastic. A good loop of .325 would wake it up. Vangard sucks...


----------



## 8433jeff

Eccentric said:


> Not bad at all for box-store sub-$200 plastic. A good loop of .325 would wake it up. Vangard sucks...



Its sharp. I do prefer other, but I most like sharp. 20" on 50cc is a real stretch IMHO, especially in dryer oak like that. .325 may help quite a bit.

But a chain refit, different bar, and where we at price wise then? A 445? I don't think they (Husqvarna) are helping themselves here, it would be smart if they went with a 18", and they could stay 3/8's then, since the objective seems to be to use the Vanguard up. Mark, is it labeled Husky on the chain, or is it Oregon?


----------



## Eccentric

8433jeff said:


> Its sharp. I do prefer other, but I most like sharp. 20" on 50cc is a real stretch IMHO, especially in dryer oak like that. .325 may help quite a bit.
> 
> But a chain refit, different bar, and where we at price wise then? A 445? I don't think they (Husqvarna) are helping themselves here, it would be smart if they went with a 18", and they could stay 3/8's then, since the objective seems to be to use the Vanguard up. Mark, is it labeled Husky on the chain, or is it Oregon?



That saw would be transformed with a loop of good .325 on a 16" bar. Homeowner saws always seem to be sold with longer than ideal bars. The extra 'inches' seem to be a selling point. I'm sure market research has been done, with the current way of things being the result. I have noticed that the majority of CL ads where 'non-chainsaw' people are listing saws have the bar (or "blade") length as an important element. Often times, the saw will be advertised as "20 inch blade chainsaw" or similar. They will almost always state the bar length, even when omitting all other details (such as make and model).....


----------



## barneyrb

rms61moparman said:


> That actually impressed me Mark!
> Now don't get me wrong.....it isn't a 5100/346/261 etc.
> But it isn't $400.00-$700.00 either!!!
> I am anxious to see what a dremel and a bit of chain juggling would do to that saw!
> 
> 
> Mike



I think I could work with that saw a little and close the gap a lot between those saws.....


----------



## Chris-PA

Eccentric said:


> That saw would be transformed with a loop of good .325 on a 16" bar. Homeowner saws always seem to be sold with longer than ideal bars. The extra 'inches' seem to be a selling point. I'm sure market research has been done, with the current way of things being the result. I have noticed that the majority of CL ads where 'non-chainsaw' people are listing saws have the bar (or "blade") length as an important element. Often times, the saw will be advertised as "20 inch blade chainsaw" or similar. They will almost always state the bar length, even when omitting all other details (such as make and model).....


LOL - Some of it is the skewed view of an AS member with CAD! My dad always had a chainsaw. One chainsaw. Usually a Craftsman because he bought most all his equipment at Sears. With one bar and likely one chain. A 20" bar sounds like you can do more with it, and if it cuts a little slower, well really, so what? The total time he spent cutting wasn't enough to make that matter. Heck, he didn't know much about sharpening chains, and the difference between a longer and maybe slower bar is nothing compared to a dull chain. 

With a longer bar you can actually cut a bigger tree, and it's hard to argue with that.


----------



## Modifiedmark

dswensen said:


> Mark, mine came with no limiter caps on the carb adjusting screws. It looks from the picture that yours didn't either?? Does have the splined carb screws however, but I find I like them once I got the tool. On a running saw, it's much easier to keep the adjusting driver on them as compared to a slotted head.



Yep splined screws.



JimM said:


> I agree. I find my patience severely tested, and I admit most of mine is gone within minutes of my getting out of bed every day, of trying to get a screw driver on a slotted screw on a dancing saw when i really cant see good anyway.




Word for word, that is exactly how I feel! Scary that it could be that accurate. 




rms61moparman said:


> That actually impressed me Mark!
> Now don't get me wrong.....it isn't a 5100/346/261 etc.
> But it isn't $400.00-$700.00 either!!!
> I am anxious to see what a dremel and a bit of chain juggling would do to that saw!
> 
> 
> Mike




Well you might be more inpressed then the others as you have cut on that log and know what its made of. You have also seen 100cc saws in that log for a comparison.


----------



## Eccentric

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> LOL - Some of it is the skewed view of an AS member with CAD! My dad always had a chainsaw. One chainsaw. Usually a Craftsman because he bought most all his equipment at Sears. With one bar and likely one chain. A 20" bar sounds like you can do more with it, and if it cuts a little slower, well really, so what? The total time he spent cutting wasn't enough to make that matter. Heck, he didn't know much about sharpening chains, and the difference between a longer and maybe slower bar is nothing compared to a dull chain.
> 
> With a longer bar you can actually cut a bigger tree, and it's hard to argue with that.



I had the same views back before my AS and CAD days..............when I had one or two saws. I worked for Sears Service in the '90s, and used to laugh at all the 20" bar equipped 40-50cc saws (that actually had "20 inch" stenciled on said bars). These modern, high-RPM 50cc stratto saws are better served by matching them with a shorter bar and/or less agressive chain. Can it run a longer bar? Yes. Is there really that much benefit to running a 20" bar on that saw (for the average homeowner)? Not in my opinion. 

It may "sound like" you can do more with it, but I'm skeptical. A fellow could do all the "one saw, one chain" work he needs to do with that saw wearing a 16" bar. It'd be a hell of a lot easier on the saw too. For the kind of work where a 20" bar would be an advantage, these 50cc homeowner saws aren't the answer. Calling a professional would probably be the answer for Joe Walmart...

My earlier post was addressing the "bigger is better" mindset and the marketing that targets it (in relation to homeowner saws). Personaly (as a CAD sufferer), I'd rather spend that $200 on four good running Homelite SXL-AO's, Poulan 3400's, or McCulloch 10-10's. They're all perfectly happy with 20" bars and full comp 3/8" chain.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Eccentric said:


> Not bad at all for box-store sub-$200 plastic. A good loop of .325 would wake it up. Vangard sucks...





8433jeff said:


> Its sharp. I do prefer other, but I most like sharp. 20" on 50cc is a real stretch IMHO, especially in dryer oak like that. .325 may help quite a bit.
> 
> But a chain refit, different bar, and where we at price wise then? A 445? I don't think they (Husqvarna) are helping themselves here, it would be smart if they went with a 18", and they could stay 3/8's then, since the objective seems to be to use the Vanguard up. Mark, is it labeled Husky on the chain, or is it Oregon?





Eccentric said:


> That saw would be transformed with a loop of good .325 on a 16" bar. Homeowner saws always seem to be sold with longer than ideal bars. The extra 'inches' seem to be a selling point. I'm sure market research has been done, with the current way of things being the result. I have noticed that the majority of CL ads where 'non-chainsaw' people are listing saws have the bar (or "blade") length as an important element. Often times, the saw will be advertised as "20 inch blade chainsaw" or similar. They will almost always state the bar length, even when omitting all other details (such as make and model).....



Here it comes and I wondered how long it would take. It actually took longer then I thought it would. 

Now boys, repete after me, this is a consumer saw designed to be sold to the masses of homeowners, firewood cutters, doofus's and derelicts. 

You and I are chainsaw enthusiasts and I'm pretty sure that Husqvarna/Poulan didn't have us in mind when designing this and marketing it for general sales. 

Aaron is mostly right, but I would say that not just often time, but more times then not this saw will be advertised as "20 inch blade chainsaw. Non saw enthusiasts would see that as a better saw/deal then a 16" or 18" chainsaw even if it was a 346-18" saw, let alone the fact that this saw is less then half the hard earned money that they don't really even want to spend. 

Jeff I agree that a 20" on 50cc is a real stretch more often or not but will say that I myself was surprised that this 50cc saw pulled the 20" 3/8's as well as it did. Nope its not blazing fast but it didnt struggle bad with it either. This setup is more then acceptable for this saws intended purpose. 

After messing with those PP4218's last week this thing is a ten fold improvement over them for very little more money spent. 

Would it be better with a 16" .325 setup? No question, why do you think I was looking so close at the sprocket on this one? I was looking to see if it could be setup with .325 chain easily. At this point I have to say that no, that at this point it dosent look like a easy chore to switch it over. 

This brings out another quandry as well, the K041 bar mount. Seems the only 3/8's pitch bars in this mount are 20 or 22" (laminate bars at that) while there are lots of .325 sizes out there from 16"-20" so even a change to 16" or 18" is going to be more difficult. 

We know that we can modify a very common K095 small Husky bar to fit these pretty easy but the average Joe Schmoe wont know that or even most *** shops they would visit, let alone some place like Lowes. 

But since I know that, I have a 16" 3/8's K095 bar on the shelf that I might try out on this thing with a good loop of LPX or LGX and I think that it will be a nice improvement, but the average consumer brobably wouldnt be so quick to buy one since it woud then be only a 16" chainsaw.


----------



## Modifiedmark

barneyrb said:


> I think I could work with that saw a little and close the gap a lot between those saws.....



Devil, get thee behind me and quit temting me! 

I'm thinking about it, I really am! I just want to take it out on a fire wood trip once first, then you can have your way with it.


----------



## MS460WOODCHUCK

Modifiedmark said:


> Here is the video with the saw in a piece of bigger wood. About 28" worth of Oak and you can see that it shows its a 50cc saw now but still not bad at all.
> 
> I was leaning on it some and it took it pretty well.
> 
> <embed src="http://img215.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=P886i" width="320" height="260" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/><br/>
> <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Modifiedmark">[More videos from Modifiedmark]</a>
> 
> http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/6035/886i.mp4



.325 on a 16'' bar with a MM and retuned carb to match and it'd be a whole other saw and for 200 bucks I don't think anybody could go wrong!


----------



## Modifiedmark

John, I think a muffler mod would help some on this but not near as much as the newer smaller Poulans. This muffler is wide open and only needs the exit hole opened some or another added.


----------



## Stevek90

Modifiedmark said:


> Here is the video with the saw in a piece of bigger wood. About 28" worth of Oak and you can see that it shows its a 50cc saw now but still not bad at all.
> 
> I was leaning on it some and it took it pretty well.
> 
> <embed src="http://img215.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=P886i" width="320" height="260" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/><br/>
> <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Modifiedmark">[More videos from Modifiedmark]</a>
> 
> http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/6035/886i.mp4



Certainly I was very curious about this new 5020, EXCELLENT THREAD, Since nothing over 42 cc is on their website STILL... It seems they are discontinuing the the 4620 as far as I can tell..., I don't see many 4620's on ebay or amazon anymore, but lots of these 5020's. It seemed to do well enough, not bad at all I agree, I think it is priced right and they will sell a lot at that price. Good cheapskate saw, next step up you are at $400 for a farm boss or similiar. If I was in the market... I would personally choose the re-manufactured Husqvarna rancher 455 over this at $299 (showing up everywhere including local dealerships, local Winsted dealership actually advertising them on craigslist). 50% more and technically re-manufactured, to me $100 is not a lot more money as you are getting more. The Poulan's typically seem look/feel kinda like toys, well, it is hitting it's intended budget homeowner consumer who will just pick up something at home depot / lowes rather than checking out the local power shop or ebay. This saw is heavier than old 295/4620 which loses some appeal and makes 455 (for right price) more appealing


----------



## jropo

Eccentric said:


> That saw would be transformed with a loop of good .325 on a 16" bar. Homeowner saws always seem to be sold with longer than ideal bars. The extra 'inches' seem to be a selling point. I'm sure market research has been done, with the current way of things being the result. I have noticed that the majority of CL ads where 'non-chainsaw' people are listing saws have the bar (or "blade") length as an important element. Often times, the saw will be advertised as "20 inch blade chainsaw" or similar. They will almost always state the bar length, even when omitting all other details (such as make and model).....



Agreed w/ the sales pitch, that the bigger the bar the bigger the saw, and it works well.
But when these are engineered I don't think thats what the goal was. I think it was made for the "reach". If you think about it most home owners are going to buy that saw for the limbs that fall in the yard. Or for the occasional dead tree.
When the tree is on the ground you don't have to bend over as far. 
My 3750 "Tim Allen" 60cc's 22'' was GREAT for this, but bury it in big wood it would fall on its face, it would cut it just not fast.
Once again they are good for what they are.


----------



## Stevek90

Eccentric said:


> That saw would be transformed with a loop of good .325 on a 16" bar. Homeowner saws always seem to be sold with longer than ideal bars. The extra 'inches' seem to be a selling point. I'm sure market research has been done, with the current way of things being the result. I have noticed that the majority of CL ads where 'non-chainsaw' people are listing saws have the bar (or "blade") length as an important element. Often times, the saw will be advertised as "20 inch blade chainsaw" or similar. They will almost always state the bar length, even when omitting all other details (such as make and model).....



Agree, all in the marketing. And then, worst of all I have seen some internet advise articles asking what size chainsaw they need. The reply will be based on the bar length rather than CC!


----------



## Chris-PA

Stevek90 said:


> Certainly I was very curious about this new 5020, EXCELLENT THREAD, Since nothing over 42 cc is on their website STILL... It seems they are discontinuing the the 4620 as far as I can tell..., I don't see many 4620's on ebay or amazon anymore, but lots of these 5020's. It seemed to do well enough, not bad at all I agree, I think it is priced right and they will sell a lot at that price. Good cheapskate saw, next step up you are at $400 for a farm boss or similiar. If I was in the market... I would personally choose the re-manufactured Husqvarna rancher 455 over this at $299 (showing up everywhere including local dealerships, local Winsted dealership actually advertising them on craigslist). 50% more and technically re-manufactured, to me $100 is not a lot more money as you are getting more. The Poulan's typically seem look/feel kinda like toys, well, it is hitting it's intended budget homeowner consumer who will just pick up something at home depot / lowes rather than checking out the local power shop or ebay. This saw is heavier than old 295/4620 which loses some appeal and makes 455 (for right price) more appealing


The weight is probably the biggest strike against it IMO. My screaming 46cc Poulan is a 10.6lb powerhead, and is still pretty light with a narrow 20" bar. It does start to narrow the gap to the 455.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Stevek90 said:


> Certainly I was very curious about this new 5020, EXCELLENT THREAD, Since nothing over 42 cc is on their website STILL... It seems they are discontinuing the the 4620 as far as I can tell..., I don't see many 4620's on ebay or amazon anymore, but lots of these 5020's. It seemed to do well enough, not bad at all I agree, I think it is priced right and they will sell a lot at that price. Good cheapskate saw, next step up you are at $400 for a farm boss or similiar. If I was in the market... I would personally choose the re-manufactured Husqvarna rancher 455 over this at $299 (showing up everywhere including local dealerships, local Winsted dealership actually advertising them on craigslist). 50% more and technically re-manufactured, to me $100 is not a lot more money as you are getting more. The Poulan's typically seem look/feel kinda like toys, well, it is hitting it's intended budget homeowner consumer who will just pick up something at home depot / lowes rather than checking out the local power shop or ebay. This saw is heavier than old 295/4620 which loses some appeal and makes 455 (for right price) more appealing




Sorry, I have to disagree with the part about $100 being "not alot more money". 

That might hold true to you but I know alot of people who would think that $100 is ALOT more money. In fact most of the people that this saw would be targeted to would think that. 

Remember that I bought this saw for $179 so that is $120 less then the referb 455 which you speak of. I'm not good at figureing percentages but I would think the 455 would be around 35% more. 

Another thing a consumer would look at would be a warranty. This new Poulan has a 2 year warranty while I think the referb 455's would have a 30 day warranty. This would most definatly be a decision maker for alot of people. A refurb with a 30 day warranty? or a new saw with a 2 year warranty for $100 or so less? You tell me which way most will go. I mean they both have a 20" blade right? 

Speaking of that, you should have seen the wierd look I got from the store clerk when I was paying for this 5020. She asked me if I was interested in paying for the extended warranty for this and I told her no, that I would more then likely be voiding the warranty on this as soon as I got it home anyway. 





jropo said:


> Agreed w/ the sales pitch, that the bigger the bar the bigger the saw, and it works well.
> But when these are engineered I don't think thats what the goal was. I think it was made for the "reach". If you think about it most home owners are going to buy that saw for the limbs that fall in the yard. Or for the occasional dead tree.
> When the tree is on the ground you don't have to bend over as far.
> My 3750 "Tim Allen" 60cc's 22'' was GREAT for this, but bury it in big wood it would fall on its face, it would cut it just not fast.
> Once again they are good for what they are.



No the 20" is for marketing pure and simple but like we see it will run the 20". That its easier to limb with is just a side benefit.


All in all though, you guys are bringing up good points and I think this thread is turning out well. 

I spent my money to see for myself what is going on with these saws, not here to tear it down or defend it, just asess the facts.


----------



## jimdad07

Mark this is one of the best threads I have read on here in quite awhile, you have done a great job at keeping it objective. I watched the video and it seems that it did just fine. I am with Randy on this one, I bet some modding will make it a keeper that will keep up with a lot of "better" saws. As said, it looks like a decent saw for the price. As long as it is taken care of, I think they would do just fine for the average home owner.


----------



## jropo

Modifiedmark said:


> Sorry, I have to disagree with the part about $100 being "not alot more money".
> 
> That might hold true to you but I know alot of people who would think that $100 is ALOT more money. In fact most of the people that this saw would be targeted to would think that.
> 
> Remember that I bought this saw for $179 so that is $120 less then the referb 455 which you speak of. I'm not good at figureing percentages but I would think the 455 would be around 35% more.
> 
> Another thing a consumer would look at would be a warranty. This new Poulan has a 2 year warranty while I think the referb 455's would have a 30 day warranty. This would most definatly be a decision maker for alot of people. A refurb with a 30 day warranty? or a new saw with a 2 year warranty for $100 or so less? You tell me which way most will go. I mean they both have a 20" blade right?
> 
> Speaking of that, you should have seen the wierd look I got from the store clerk when I was paying for this 5020. She asked me if I was interested in paying for the extended warranty for this and I told her no, that I would more then likely be voiding the warranty on this as soon as I got it home anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No the 20" is for marketing pure and simple but like we see it will run the 20". That its easier to limb with is just a side benefit.
> 
> 
> All in all though, you guys are bringing up good points and I think this thread is turning out well.
> 
> I spent my money to see for myself what is going on with these saws, not here to tear it down or defend it, just asess the facts.



Your right $100 is alot to most people today.
I've ran a 455 they are no slouch. IMO If I was selling saws I would not recommed a 455 to a user that has never ran a chainsaw before.
But the 5020 and the like, is what I would recommend for a first time user. Thus consumer saw. Its not small and chincy to the point were its not concidered "dangerious", but its not over powering. 
Most of the ol' timers I know don't like big saws or aggressive chains, and watch every cent of their fixed income, so this would be perfect for them also.

I'm really glad that we can still dicuss this type of saw here. They are fun and have a purpose.


----------



## nick 55

I agree. Thank you, Mark, for being the guinea pig and buying one of these to give it a proper review. A saw like this will appeal to Joe Homeowner for the reach of the "blade". I have been tempted to buy one of these saws so I could check it out and once I was done with it, sell it to a Joe Homeowner friend of mine who would use it but not abuse it. It certainly would blend in on the bench masquerading as my 4620(to my wife anyways) better than my 24" 4000 did.

Do I see a build-off competition in this saws future?

Nick


----------



## PLMCRZY

I do need a saw now a days...looks like it would fit my bill perfect. 

Btw mark is that a green Tillman welding jacket your wearing??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Stevek90

jropo said:


> Your right $100 is alot to most people today.
> I've ran a 455 they are no slouch. IMO If I was selling saws I would not recommed a 455 to a user that has never ran a chainsaw before.
> But the 5020 and the like, is what I would recommend for a first time user. Thus consumer saw. Its not small and chincy to the point were its not concidered "dangerious", but its not over powering.
> Most of the ol' timers I know don't like big saws or aggressive chains, and watch every cent of their fixed income, so this would be perfect for them also.
> 
> I'm really glad that we can still dicuss this type of saw here. They are fun and have a purpose.



But if $100 is going to break the bank, I would suggest getting a number of homeowner saws off craigslist for under $100, the market is still flooded with them after the storms at least in the northeast. It is tough to sell a homeowner saw for over $100 once it is used unless you find a sucker, usually sell for $75 to $100 for exceptionally clean saw Often people buy these things to clean up storm damage and never need again. If going to be really cheap why not look at used, nice thing about used it's then mostly depreciated. Well, its a very in the middle saw at $200 and seems to be high for a homeowner saw. I would not find one used to just see what could get out for power with muffler mod, ect


----------



## RandyMac

Stevek90 said:


> But if $100 is going to break the bank, I would suggest getting a number of homeowner saws off craigslist for under $100, the market is still flooded with them after the storms at least in the northeast. It is tough to sell a homeowner saw for over $100 once it is used unless you find a sucker, usually sell for $75 to $100 for exceptionally clean saw Often people buy these things to clean up storm damage and never need again. If going to be really cheap why not look at used, nice thing about used it's then mostly depreciated. Well, its a very in the middle saw at $200 and seems to be high for a homeowner saw. I would not find one used to just see what could get out for power with muffler mod, ect



you aren't getting it, are you? We are talking new saws, with warranty.


----------



## Sprintcar

Nicely done Mark, great thread.


----------



## Stevek90

RandyMac said:


> you aren't getting it, are you? We are talking new saws, with warranty.



I am getting it, playing devil's advocate to really figure out why someone would buy this saw.

I figured on this actual site, 90% of people will be picking these up for $20 to $40 after homeowner leave gas and gums up them and sells at tag sale,ect. Pluck them up and toy with them to get more power, or use as a truly almost for nothing saw. Once you are on this site you are usually more informed of chainsaws that is why so many hate Poulan's, if on a site like this a lot of chainsaw connosiers. My assumption: This saws intended audience is primarily homeowner with X big tree falls down in yard, they want to save money and not pay to take care of it, go to home depot and buy the biggest cheapest saw they can get, a 20"! (saving money is the point, why waste it buying a Stihl, ect) Use saw to cut up that tree, have no use for it after that. They are then very happy, the saw paid fo itself and some after one tree, if they can sell on CL, the extra money is gravy!


----------



## huskydude

this site has actually made me want to get some cheap poulan to fix up and stick in my toolbox :msp_sneaky:
a woodshark or wild thing type saw. i'd probably end up using it more than I think.


----------



## Cliff R

Mark, good thread. Looks like Poulan may be taking a shot at a bigger part of the market, good move on their part, IMHO.

Anyhow, after watching the video's, I would consider changine to .325" and dropping the bar back to 18", or at least going back to 18" and putting a better chain on it. I thought it was mentioned someplace that it was outfitted with the "folded over dorsal fin" chain. Those chains just don't work well, and each time you sharpen them, they get a little worse.

IMHO, it will really start to show it's colors if the bar/chain was sized better to the power output of the saw. I have quite a few 50-55cc saws in my line-up, and none of them are real happy with a 20" bar and 3/8" full chisel chains on them. They work fine, but take on a whole new character when you drop back to .325" and an 18" bar.

I say this because most of what we cut here are tops, left over from logging operations. For this type of work, 50cc saws have proven to the be the best overall choice. When we get into bucking up some bog logs, the big saws come out of the truck.....Cliff


----------



## RandyMac

yep, a bunch of them will get gummed and unloaded cheap, it happens to stihls too. Your debate belongs elsewhere, this started as a review, with many interested parties.


----------



## Stevek90

huskydude said:


> this site has actually made me want to get some cheap poulan to fix up and stick in my toolbox :msp_sneaky:
> a woodshark or wild thing type saw. i'd probably end up using it more than I think.



this site inspired me to hop up my Poulan 295 to be a decent saw. Got it for free, needed a little work and once running I was like, wow these new saws sure are junk, I mean my old free homelite runs better, but then found the info here to mod the Poulan and make it decent

I think Poulan should somehow run the chains in. Lots of complaints on amazon reviews from inexperience homeowners about how chains keep loosening up, not necessarily the adjuster all the time, just it's a new chain, that needs tightening a few times after first uses. The idea of having to fiddle with something new is counterintuitive, Have the chains already stretched and ready to go I think would make many first time users very happy


----------



## Chris-PA

Hmm, I'm not going along with this description of Joe Homeowner as some incompetent slouch, buying tools and beating them up and throwing them away or returning them. I know that happens, but I doubt it's the norm. I was trying to describe it earlier but I don't think I did it well. I think it has more to do with the fact that Joe Homeowner isn't a saw enthusiast, and maybe not a great mechanic, but may still try to take good care of his tools. 

The picture I was trying to paint was from my own childhood. Dad had 25 acres to take care of, and in the 70's we were heating partially with wood like a lot of folks during the first energy crisis. But the general level of affluence was different (partly people's reluctance to buy things on credit, and partly because a saw like this would have cost relatively more then), and people would not have felt the need to buy pro-grade equipment, let alone be able to afford it. Without the internet they probably would not have known what any of it was. So if we needed something like a chainsaw, he bought ONE saw, from Sears or a local hardware store. It wouldn't have been a pro saw, but something like this would have been perfect. And that was what we had to work with, and it did work. And we tried to take care of it, often with out the knowledge like we have access to here on AS, but they usually lasted a pretty long time - and we didn't run out and get the latest model every time one came out, we used what we had. As I got older I did the maintenance and repair, because I was interested and better at it. But you know, where was a country teenager in the 70's going to find out all the detail stuff we talk about here? So likely it was not maintained or tuned quite right.

Anyway, I know a lot of you guys my age can relate to that time and mindset. Not everyone needs mag cased pro saw. I don't, and if I ever get one it won't be new and will probably need fixing. A saw like this will do most everything I need, even the 24"-32" stuff I have to do now but much more slowly. I'm the target customer for this saw, and other than the weight (not a big deal) it's a step up from my 46cc Poulan 2775, which pulls its 20" bar just fine. Now with Mark's review I'd have no problems buying one. But my existing stuff works well so I won't.


----------



## sachsmo

Under $200,

It should be fine for the guy who buys it to cut a few downed linbs, then lets it sit for years with gas in it.

The vid in the Oak was a little painful, but it DID get it done. (wonder if it would last after a couple dozen of those sustained cuts in succession)

Not a real liteweight, but should keep a guy in firewood for a few years, or not.

Good review Mark.


----------



## Modifiedmark

RandyMac said:


> yep, a bunch of them will get gummed and unloaded cheap, it happens to stihls too. Your debate belongs elsewhere, this started as a review, with many interested parties.



Well put Randy, and I agree. It's out of place at this point, time and thread.


----------



## Modifiedmark

PLMCRZY said:


> I do need a saw now a days...looks like it would fit my bill perfect.
> 
> Btw mark is that a green Tillman welding jacket your wearing??
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Its just a frc (fire resistent clothing) that we have to use at work. 

Not really a welding jacket but they are used alot for that. 




Cliff R said:


> Mark, good thread. Looks like Poulan may be taking a shot at a bigger part of the market, good move on their part, IMHO.
> 
> Anyhow, after watching the video's, I would consider changine to .325" and dropping the bar back to 18", or at least going back to 18" and putting a better chain on it. I thought it was mentioned someplace that it was outfitted with the "folded over dorsal fin" chain. Those chains just don't work well, and each time you sharpen them, they get a little worse.
> 
> IMHO, it will really start to show it's colors if the bar/chain was sized better to the power output of the saw. I have quite a few 50-55cc saws in my line-up, and none of them are real happy with a 20" bar and 3/8" full chisel chains on them. They work fine, but take on a whole new character when you drop back to .325" and an 18" bar.
> 
> I say this because most of what we cut here are tops, left over from logging operations. For this type of work, 50cc saws have proven to the be the best overall choice. When we get into bucking up some bog logs, the big saws come out of the truck.....Cliff



I agree with most all of that Cliff, but once again what you and I would do is not really relevent here as most who would buy this is not going to want to spend more money to change bars and chains on it just to use it. 

It seems most all saws being aimed at the consumer/homowner/farm market are equipped with some sort of safety chain or another and some are alot worse then the Vanguard 72V chain that is used on this one. Some of the Stihl safety chain comes to mind. 

Like I said before, at this point I dont see a easy conversion to a rim or a .325 spur on this saw, so what you have is a 3/8's chain, for better or worse. 





sachsmo said:


> Under $200,
> 
> It should be fine for the guy who buys it to cut a few downed linbs, then lets it sit for years with gas in it.
> 
> The vid in the Oak was a little painful, but it DID get it done. (wonder if it would last after a couple dozen of those sustained cuts in succession)
> 
> Not a real liteweight, but should keep a guy in firewood for a few years, or not.
> 
> Good review Mark.




Yeah it probably a little painful for most here to watch in that bigger wood, but like I said I was leaning on it a little more then would useally be done. Face it, it kept pulling and pulling and most who have not run a 346 or 5100 would not know the difference and would be thinkig that it was doing good. 

In fact for pulling full 20" with 3/8's in Oak, I think it was doing a pretty damn good job in hardwood. I have seen other 50cc big name brand saws that wouldnt do any better or even as good. The Jonsered 520 that I had comes to mind. 

As far as holding up, I really dont see any really weak spots in its construction, a clamshell is a clamshell, and brgs and such dont go out in them any faster then in a pro saw do they? 

I can bet you that I will never get enough time on this myself to ever answer the hold up over time question and someone else will have to report on that later.


----------



## Cliff R

Just so most folks know, the Vanguard chains seem fine first outing or so, then their performance goes WAY down as the teeth get smaller. I bought my first loop of VG in a hurry one day at TSC, and thought that I was using bad files as the more I sharpened it, the worse it got. That experience was repeated when I went thru the trials and tribulations with the three Poulan 330's that we tested here. Even with the 330's, it as a BIG upgrade modifying a Husky 18" bar and dropping back to 18" 3/8" full chisel on them.

Husqvarna chose to outfit their very popular 55 Rancher saws with 20" bars and 3/8 set-ups, and continued this trend with 455's. WAY too much bar/chain for those saws, at least if you are in a hurry and want maximum cutting efficiency for the power available.

The Poulan you have there appears to fall into the same catagory. Looks fine on the first videa in small material, and has it's tongue hanging out in the 28" log, which is to be expected for a 50cc saw no matter who made it......Cliff


----------



## promac850

huskydude said:


> this site has actually made me want to get some cheap poulan to fix up and stick in my toolbox :msp_sneaky:
> a woodshark or wild thing type saw. i'd probably end up using it more than I think.



Welcome to my current thoughts... WoodShark 2.0 for truck saw... and probably use it more than I figured I would, lol. Momma would love to see me bringing firewood home everyday...


----------



## Bowtie

Just got back from the "Save Big Money" store here in Kansas. They didnt have that model. Shame because I wanted to have a look-see. Maybe in time.


----------



## Stevek90

Cliff R said:


> Just so most folks know, the Vanguard chains seem fine first outing or so, then their performance goes WAY down as the teeth get smaller. I bought my first loop of VG in a hurry one day at TSC, and thought that I was using bad files as the more I sharpened it, the worse it got. That experience was repeated when I went thru the trials and tribulations with the three Poulan 330's that we tested here. Even with the 330's, it as a BIG upgrade modifying a Husky 18" bar and dropping back to 18" 3/8" full chisel on them.
> 
> Husqvarna chose to outfit their very popular 55 Rancher saws with 20" bars and 3/8 set-ups, and continued this trend with 455's. WAY too much bar/chain for those saws, at least if you are in a hurry and want maximum cutting efficiency for the power available.
> 
> The Poulan you have there appears to fall into the same catagory. Looks fine on the first videa in small material, and has it's tongue hanging out in the 28" log, which is to be expected for a 50cc saw no matter who made it......Cliff



Although we should probably start a new thread on this, I believe most of the Vanguard issue is people don't know how to sharpen them (knock down the rakers). I am still not sure either, but I did knock down the rakers and you have to basically do it on almost an angle, I did it and it really bites, it is just a matter of just making sure you knock down the rakers


----------



## 8433jeff

Mark, was the chain stamped with Husqvarna or was it run o' mill Oregon?


----------



## Modifiedmark

Stevek90 said:


> Although we should probably start a new thread on this, I believe most of the Vanguard issue is people don't know how to sharpen them (knock down the rakers). I am still not sure either, but I did knock down the rakers and you have to basically do it on almost an angle, I did it and it really bites, it is just a matter of just making sure you knock down the rakers



There was a thread on this just a bit ago and you are correct, "IF" you know how to file the rakers its not bad. 





8433jeff said:


> Mark, was the chain stamped with Husqvarna or was it run o' mill Oregon?



Jeff, I'll look but I'm almost certain it Oregon branded.


----------



## Cliff R

"There was a thread on this just a bit ago and you are correct, "IF" you know how to file the rakers its not bad."

It's good for two or three outings followed by sharpening the chain in between, then cutting efficiency starts to deteriorate rapidly, even IF you know how to sharpen a chain and lower rakers, etc. The surface area of the "folded over dorsal fin" rakers doesn't get smaller/narrower in diameter proportionally to the cutting teeth diameter with each sharpening. In other words you will continue to experience diminishing returns, unless you know a way around the basic laws of physics?

I agree that at best those chains are OK, but not on par anyplace with 3/8" full chisel chains that lack any safety features at all.

I don't fully agree that this should be another topic, IF one is evaluating the performance of the 50cc saw in question here that is already outfitted with a tad too much bar for the cc's, AND a chain that is just "OK"......IMHO....Cliff


----------



## PLMCRZY

So is there any 18" bars that will fit it? I guess I could keep the 3/8s chain on it. Be a lot happier with .325, I'd imagine. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jropo

Most home owners that would buy this saw might pick up a spare chain.
Just because, or so they have a spare, or to switch out when dull, so that there is something on the saw while the other chain is being sharpened.
Most of the time the spare that is picked up is recommended by someone (sound familiar? AS), and becomes there "GOOD" chain.

As far as used saws goes, if your looking at a new saw its because your sick of fiddling w/ your old free/used/handmedown/ect.

If this saw was available when I was in the market for a new saw I would of bought it and never found AS, thus saving me a couple thousand dollars, and saving me from alot of in front of the computer time.
Not to mention some awkward conversations at work. :msp_blushingcome to find out not every one is a chainsaw enthusiast):msp_confused:


----------



## Chris-PA

jropo said:


> Not to mention some awkward conversations at work. :msp_blushingcome to find out not every one is a chainsaw enthusiast):msp_confused:


LOL - I've been there a long time so all the guys know I'm nuts anyway, but, yeah, not everyone wants to hear about chainsaws. Dunno what's wrong with 'em.


----------



## nick 55

Ha! I had a new saw delivered to me at my shop one time. Everybody started real getting concerned when I filled the tanks, fired it up, and was tuning it. I had old guys come up to me asking why in the world I had a saw, and they couldn't believe I was going to be cutting down trees. When I was carrying it out to the car one of them told me to "Be real careful with that thing, they are so dangerous." They didn't know it was my third saw.

Nick


----------



## huskydude

nick 55 said:


> Ha! I had a new saw delivered to me at my shop one time. Everybody started real getting concerned when I filled the tanks, fired it up, and was tuning it. I had old guys come up to me asking why in the world I had a saw, and they couldn't believe I was going to be cutting down trees. When I was carrying it out to the car one of them told me to "Be real careful with that thing, they are so dangerous." They didn't know it was my third saw.
> 
> Nick



 In NH owning a saw is like owning a truck.


----------



## jropo

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> LOL - I've been there a long time so all the guys know I'm nuts anyway, but, yeah, not everyone wants to hear about chainsaws. Dunno what's wrong with 'em.



I don't think its us its "THEM". :crazy1:


----------



## Cliff R

"Not to mention some awkward conversations at work. (come to find out not every one is a chainsaw enthusiast)"

I have some friends who own property, chain saw(s), and cut wood on occassion. Most of them are professionals at one career or another, and quite intelligent. IF you ask any of them what size saw they own or just bought, they will IMMEDIATELY answer 20" (or whatever bar length it has). They will seldom know the model number, and it's a rare as a lottery ticket if the know the engine displacement, power ratings, or any other specs about the saw, such as what pitch the chain is and how many drive links it has, etc.

Most AS members will know quite a bit about, if not most of the specifics on their chain saw and other power equipement, sort of like a Muscle Car enthusiast knows the spec's of the engine he just built for his 69 Chevelle......Cliff


----------



## sawinredneck

Great review and thread, Mark! Thanks a lot!
I have to say I was damn impressed with that saw in the Oak! I pulled a lot better than I imagined it would! This may very well become my next home owner recommended saw! I used to push the MS180 for that role.
I had a land owner ask me what to buy, 16 acres bunches of brush wood, piss Elms 6" and smaller. He was at a home improvement store and picked up Hitachi as an impulse buy. He hates it already.
This is aimed at the "Tim Allen" market, Joe homeowner has a branch, a tree, needs some firewood, wants to feel manly for the weekend type. This saw will get used twice a year at best, the owner will figure out how much work is really involved and be happy to put his suit back on Monday.
We are WAY over analyzing this saw here, it's not meant for us, it's not even meant for the Consumer Reports crowd, it's for someone on an impulse or needs something right now and the Home improvement store is open and this saw grabbed his eye. He's done no research, doesn't care, but it's got a big bar so it must be the baddest thing in the store!
The fact that it runs as good as it does sure doesn't hurt a damn thing!


----------



## Bowtie

sawinredneck said:


> Great review and thread, Mark! Thanks a lot!
> I have to say I was damn impressed with that saw in the Oak! I pulled a lot better than I imagined it would! This may very well become my next home owner recommended saw! I used to push the MS180 for that role.
> I had a land owner ask me what to buy, 16 acres bunches of brush wood, piss Elms 6" and smaller. He was at a home improvement store and picked up Hitachi as an impulse buy. He hates it already.
> This is aimed at the "Tim Allen" market, Joe homeowner has a branch, a tree, needs some firewood, wants to feel manly for the weekend type. This saw will get used twice a year at best, the owner will figure out how much work is really involved and be happy to put his suit back on Monday.
> We are WAY over analyzing this saw here, it's not meant for us, it's not even meant for the Consumer Reports crowd, it's for someone on an impulse or needs something right now and the Home improvement store is open and this saw grabbed his eye. He's done no research, doesn't care, but it's got a big bar so it must be the baddest thing in the store!
> The fact that it runs as good as it does sure doesn't hurt a damn thing!



Hey Sawin, I just picked up a Stihl 25" saw. Is that a good one?


----------



## jropo

Cliff R said:


> "Not to mention some awkward conversations at work. (come to find out not every one is a chainsaw enthusiast)"
> 
> I have some friends who own property, chain saw(s), and cut wood on occassion. Most of them are professionals at one career or another, and quite intelligent. IF you ask any of them what size saw they own or just bought, they will IMMEDIATELY answer 20" (or whatever bar length it has). They will seldom know the model number, and it's a rare as a lottery ticket if the know the engine displacement, power ratings, or any other specs about the saw, such as what pitch the chain is and how many drive links it has, etc.
> 
> Most AS members will know quite a bit about, if not most of the specifics on their chain saw and other power equipement, sort of like a Muscle Car enthusiast knows the spec's of the engine he just built for his 69 Chevelle......Cliff



Yup, in the real world w/ the people I know I'm the saw guy. :alien2: I even help my dealer out from time to time.

I get on here an its :check:

I also Thank you Mark, Great Review! :msp_thumbup:


----------



## nick 55

Mark, did you ever measure the clutch side of the crankshaft so we could try and find a .325 sprocket for it?

Nick


----------



## sawinredneck

Bowtie said:


> Hey Sawin, I just picked up a Stihl 25" saw. Is that a good one?



Yup! Them ones with the 25" blades are the bestest!


----------



## Modifiedmark

Cliff R said:


> "There was a thread on this just a bit ago and you are correct, "IF" you know how to file the rakers its not bad."
> 
> It's good for two or three outings followed by sharpening the chain in between, then cutting efficiency starts to deteriorate rapidly, even IF you know how to sharpen a chain and lower rakers, etc. The surface area of the "folded over dorsal fin" rakers doesn't get smaller/narrower in diameter proportionally to the cutting teeth diameter with each sharpening. In other words you will continue to experience diminishing returns, unless you know a way around the basic laws of physics?
> 
> I agree that at best those chains are OK, but not on par anyplace with 3/8" full chisel chains that lack any safety features at all.
> 
> I don't fully agree that this should be another topic, IF one is evaluating the performance of the 50cc saw in question here that is already outfitted with a tad too much bar for the cc's, AND a chain that is just "OK"......IMHO....Cliff



Well Cliff, I know you dont like that Vanguard chain but you know what? I dont really like it that much either, but its here and like I said before, all consumer saws come with safety chain and the Vanguard is better then most "safety chain. 

I did not intend for this to be a evaluation of performance/cutting speed alone, I would think that is only part of the overall product. 

I mean its a $200 saw, how much does one expect for that kinda money? 




PLMCRZY said:


> So is there any 18" bars that will fit it? I guess I could keep the 3/8s chain on it. Be a lot happier with .325, I'd imagine.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Like I said before, Oregon only shows 3/8" in a 20 and 22" K041 mount. So as for a direct fit, then no there is not but the K095 small Husky bars will work fine if you file the adjuster slot up so it will oil through the adjuster hole. 



Cliff R said:


> "Not to mention some awkward conversations at work. (come to find out not every one is a chainsaw enthusiast)"
> 
> I have some friends who own property, chain saw(s), and cut wood on occassion. Most of them are professionals at one career or another, and quite intelligent. IF you ask any of them what size saw they own or just bought, they will IMMEDIATELY answer 20" (or whatever bar length it has). They will seldom know the model number, and it's a rare as a lottery ticket if the know the engine displacement, power ratings, or any other specs about the saw, such as what pitch the chain is and how many drive links it has, etc.
> 
> Most AS members will know quite a bit about, if not most of the specifics on their chain saw and other power equipement, sort of like a Muscle Car enthusiast knows the spec's of the engine he just built for his 69 Chevelle......Cliff



Exactly what we were saying earlier about marketing and the 20" bar. At least as we see it will work with it ok. 



nick 55 said:


> Mark, did you ever measure the clutch side of the crankshaft so we could try and find a .325 sprocket for it?
> 
> Nick



I did not, I made myself not touch a saw all day so I could get to work on this lathe that needs repaired and put back together. 

Honestly though, even though I prefer .325 on my 50cc saws, I really dont think you will see that big improvement with .325 on this saw as it seems to have quite a bit of torque. 

I do think that a 16" bar would be a big improvement on it be it .325 or 3/8.

I will try to get that measurement tomorrow as I want to know as well. I forgot to measure it when I had it off the other night. Like I said before, it is a smaller dia crank then the 295 but the outside dia and depth is the same as the 3000 series so that would work it you could come up with the right brg or bushing.


----------



## Modifiedmark

sawinredneck said:


> Great review and thread, Mark! Thanks a lot!
> I have to say I was damn impressed with that saw in the Oak! I pulled a lot better than I imagined it would! This may very well become my next home owner recommended saw! I used to push the MS180 for that role.
> I had a land owner ask me what to buy, 16 acres bunches of brush wood, piss Elms 6" and smaller. He was at a home improvement store and picked up Hitachi as an impulse buy. He hates it already.
> This is aimed at the "Tim Allen" market, Joe homeowner has a branch, a tree, needs some firewood, wants to feel manly for the weekend type. This saw will get used twice a year at best, the owner will figure out how much work is really involved and be happy to put his suit back on Monday.
> We are WAY over analyzing this saw here, it's not meant for us, it's not even meant for the Consumer Reports crowd, it's for someone on an impulse or needs something right now and the Home improvement store is open and this saw grabbed his eye. He's done no research, doesn't care, but it's got a big bar so it must be the baddest thing in the store!
> The fact that it runs as good as it does sure doesn't hurt a damn thing!



Here is someone that "gets it" :hmm3grin2orange:

Like we said before this saw is not for most of us saw nuts.


----------



## jimdad07

Modifiedmark said:


> Here is someone that "gets it" :hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> Like we said before this saw is not for most of us saw nuts.



Those "cheap" saws got me through a few years before I owned a pro saw. I cut a lot of wood and they held up to it. I still own one that works and another one I sold to a guy for $50 who will use it once a year. They serve a purpose and this was a great thread. I would love to see more of these pop up.


----------



## Walt41

I think I'll be putting that 10% coupon to good use this week, I've been looking for a cheap saw to leave in the tractor for occasional use and it sounds like this one fits the bill.


----------



## zogger

jimdad07 said:


> Those "cheap" saws got me through a few years before I owned a pro saw. I cut a lot of wood and they held up to it. I still own one that works and another one I sold to a guy for $50 who will use it once a year. They serve a purpose and this was a great thread. I would love to see more of these pop up.



--I cut from the early 70s to year 2006 with used saws, and the most I paid..disremember now, maybe 25 bucks. Most were 10 or 20 dollars, and I always bought perfectly fine runners.

Then I bought a "new" saw, 200 hundred bucks, the cheapest homerenter saw husky made at the time, still works fine.

Maybe 1/100th of 1% of the guys out there who need to do some sawing actually "need" a high end pro saw or six. 

Now there is a niche that isn't on the market yet, and that is high cube but non pro priced saws. 50cc for 200 clams, let's see a 70 to compliment it for 300, NIB, out the door.

That would be *slick*. Brand new two saw practical plan for 500.

Will it happen? Don't know, but glad to see that 50 cc "barrier" finally crossed in the affordable for most guys price range, and glad to see it is Poulan. 

And you know their marketing people have to monitor these boards..so...c'mon Poulan, show us what ya got!


----------



## Eccentric

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> *Hmm, I'm not going along with this description of Joe Homeowner as some incompetent slouch, buying tools and beating them up and throwing them away or returning them.* I know that happens, but I doubt it's the norm. I was trying to describe it earlier but I don't think I did it well.  I think it has more to do with the fact that Joe Homeowner isn't a saw enthusiast, and maybe not a great mechanic, but may still try to take good care of his tools.
> 
> The picture I was trying to paint was from my own childhood. Dad had 25 acres to take care of, and in the 70's we were heating partially with wood like a lot of folks during the first energy crisis. But the general level of affluence was different (partly people's reluctance to buy things on credit, and partly because a saw like this would have cost relatively more then), and people would not have felt the need to buy pro-grade equipment, let alone be able to afford it. Without the internet they probably would not have known what any of it was. So if we needed something like a chainsaw, he bought ONE saw, from Sears or a local hardware store. It wouldn't have been a pro saw, but something like this would have been perfect. And that was what we had to work with, and it did work. And we tried to take care of it, often with out the knowledge like we have access to here on AS, but they usually lasted a pretty long time - and we didn't run out and get the latest model every time one came out, we used what we had. As I got older I did the maintenance and repair, because I was interested and better at it. But you know, where was a country teenager in the 70's going to find out all the detail stuff we talk about here? So likely it was not maintained or tuned quite right.
> 
> Anyway, I know a lot of you guys my age can relate to that time and mindset. Not everyone needs mag cased pro saw. I don't, and if I ever get one it won't be new and will probably need fixing. A saw like this will do most everything I need, even the 24"-32" stuff I have to do now but much more slowly. I'm the target customer for this saw, and other than the weight (not a big deal) it's a step up from my 46cc Poulan 2775, which pulls its 20" bar just fine. Now with Mark's review I'd have no problems buying one. But my existing stuff works well so I won't.




WHW I have to disagree with you. You're looking at yourself and your Dad as being the "Joe Homeowner" majority (that saws of this type are marketed towards). After having worked at Sears Service, and observing many other people (including those that I see at wally-world, and those that sell saws on CL), I can say *without hesitation* that the people in the "Joe Homeowner" majority *are* the folks you described in the first sentance (that I made 'bold') of your post. You and your Dad, and other folks that appreciate their tools (and try to take care of them) are in the *minority*. All you have to do is do a google search for "how to use tools for free", "how to get over on Home Depot", or something similar, and you'll see the mindset of the average dolt. Depressing, but true IME. People like you and your Dad are 1 in 100................................................at best.


----------



## Chris-PA

Eccentric said:


> WHW I have to disagree with you. You're looking at yourself and your Dad as being the "Joe Homeowner" majority (that saws of this type are marketed towards). After having worked at Sears Service, and observing many other people (including those that I see at wally-world, and those that sell saws on CL), I can say *without hesitation* that the people in the "Joe Homeowner" majority *are* the folks you described in the first sentance (that I made 'bold') of your post. You and your Dad, and other folks that appreciate their tools (and try to take care of them) are in the *minority*. All you have to do is do a google search for "how to use tools for free", "how to get over on Home Depot", or something similar, and you'll see the mindset of the average dolt. Depressing, but true IME. People like you and your Dad are 1 in 100................................................at best.


Ahh, maybe it's time period thing too. Things change. You might'a noticed that.


----------



## PLMCRZY

I just wanna cut wood when I need to. I don't cut a lot but when I do it's usually from a storm or someone needs a tree down. I ain't no "joe homeowner doofus either" I take of my crap and kno how to properly do so. No matter how it cost it's my money and I wanna get my money's worth. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## joe25DA

Eccentric said:


> WHW I have to disagree with you. You're looking at yourself and your Dad as being the "Joe Homeowner" majority (that saws of this type are marketed towards). After having worked at Sears Service, and observing many other people (including those that I see at wally-world, and those that sell saws on CL), I can say *without hesitation* that the people in the "Joe Homeowner" majority *are* the folks you described in the first sentance (that I made 'bold') of your post. You and your Dad, and other folks that appreciate their tools (and try to take care of them) are in the *minority*. All you have to do is do a google search for "how to use tools for free", "how to get over on Home Depot", or something similar, and you'll see the mindset of the average dolt. Depressing, but true IME. People like you and your Dad are 1 in 100................................................at best.



I agree Aaron. I do occasionally fix *** for people, and at this point, I almost expect to get a mower that has never had the oil changed and an inch of grass caked underneath. And it doesnt matter if these people have a $600 stihl or $189 poulan, chances are they wont do proper maintenance.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Walt41 said:


> I think I'll be putting that 10% coupon to good use this week, I've been looking for a cheap saw to leave in the tractor for occasional use and it sounds like this one fits the bill.



Yeah Walt why not, sounds like a good use for one. 

I have to say I went out to pull the clutch and get a measurement for Nick and I decided to try to start it. It did in 2 pulls. One to pop and one more to start. 

I have to say this is one you need to follow the instructions for. It has a half choke postition for a reason and that reason is its a cold blooded strato. It will start after the pop with the choke pushed all the way it but wont run long that way. If you push the choke in to the half notch/postion it will start there and you then need to leave it at half choke and fast idle for a few seconds to warm some, then push the choke all the way in, then your good to go. 

The crank dia on this is 10mm or .395" Not sure if there is a brg to fit this crank with the 3000 series sprocket or not. I'm not sure that its worth the trouble anyway to be honest. 

I also noticed how heavy the clutch cover/chainbrake assy was when I pulled it off so I weighed it. It was almost a pound by itself. Maybe the metal cover wasnt such a good idea afterall. :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## Eccentric

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> Ahh, maybe it's time period thing too. Things change. You might'a noticed that.



That's it. I worked at Sears Service through most of the '90s. Things (and customer attitudes) were changing then. We had loyal "Sears only" customers like your Dad, who stuck with us because they ALWAYS got a quality product and excelent service. While large, Sears was NOT a box store at that time. While I was there, Sears was in serious financial trouble. They were starting to cut corners. Chinese made tools were starting to find their way into the line. That crap was labled "Sears", and NOT "Craftsman however. 

Shortly after that, Sears was bought out by the K-Mart/OSH conglomerate, and things really went to hell. Service centers (including the ones I worked at) were shut down. Sears tried to compete with wally world and the other discount box stores. Cheap merchandise and returns became the norm, rather than quality products and real service. Sad really. Those same loyal customers (who'd been with Sears for generations) were put off (and rightly so). They correctly decided that there wasn't any reason to pay more at Sears...



joe25DA said:


> I agree Aaron. I do occasionally fix *** for people, and at this point, I almost expect to get a mower that has never had the oil changed and an inch of grass caked underneath. And it doesnt matter if these people have a $600 stihl or $189 poulan, chances are they wont do proper maintenance.



Yep. While we had our share of stupid/thoughtless/deceptive people coming in to Sears, the 'core' customers were still a pleasure to deal with. They made dealing with the scum worthwhile. Nowadays, everybody wants to get stuff at chinese merchandise prices, and has no moral problem with "sticking it to the big guys" by using equipment for one job (or running equipment into the ground) and returning it for a refund. A sign of the times. This newest 50cc Poulan costs less than the equivelant (2500/2700/2900 series IIRC) Poulans that were being sold at Sears back when I worked there. Not talking 'adjusted dollars', but actual cost. Those saws that I saw sold cost over $200 back then, when a car cost half what it does now. Of course, you can look back to the mid '50s, when a McCulloch 35 (or the sand cast Poulans) cost something in the neighborhood of $400 (and a car cost $2000). That'd be a $5,000 saw in today's dollars. That was before the notion of 'consumer' saws however....


----------



## nick 55

.3937 is a Husqvarna size crankshaft used on 141 and 142 saws. And Oregon shows a listing for. 325 sprockets for them.

Nick


----------



## Modifiedmark

nick 55 said:


> .3937 is a Husqvarna size crankshaft used on 141 and 142 saws. And Oregon shows a listing for. 325 sprockets for them.
> 
> Nick



Yes your right, I knew that already, as I compared it to a Poulan 2500/2900 sprocket which is the same as the 141. Problem is the drum itself is too small.


----------



## nick 55

3/8" would just be a lot easier to deal with......

Nick


----------



## Eccentric

Modifiedmark said:


> Yes your right, I knew that already, as I compared it to a Poulan 2500/2900 sprocket which is the same as the 141. Problem is the drum itself is too small.



Could you swap the complete clutch from a 141 onto the saw? Just thinkin' out my butt...


----------



## Modifiedmark

Eccentric said:


> Could you swap the complete clutch from a 141 onto the saw? Just thinkin' out my butt...



See post # 117 :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## job247

I bought one of the poulan 5020 saws about a month ago. It seems to be made pretty well for an off the shelf saw. I ran a couple of tanks of gas through it and it done ok other than I think I may need to adjust the carb some since it dogs in the cut a little more than I thought was normal. I would be interested in finding an 18inch bar and chain for it. I think that would make a big difference. As far as the vanguard chain, I havent messed with the rakers yet. Need to get a guage for it. I found this link that may be of some help though. http://www.oregoncuttinggear.com/pdfs/ms_manual.pdf


----------



## PLMCRZY

Best chain I've ever ran was Carlton and that was on my 026. It would keep an edge the longest. I'm glad everyone is talking about the vanguards sucking I remember I ran 2 of those and after sharpening they still didn't cut that great. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## job247

I would like to get a spare chain for my 5020 but from reading what others are saying about the vanguard chain I think I need to find something different for it.


----------



## Eccentric

Modifiedmark said:


> See post # 117 :hmm3grin2orange:



Yeah, well fine then....:yoyo:


----------



## Dan_IN_MN

Mark

This thread is kind of what I was getting at with this one: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/89232.htm


----------



## PLMCRZY

I'm thinking of picking one up and doing some volunteer work on the weekends with it. We had some bad fires here this past summer and there is a lot of dead trees to be cut down. If I do I will do a write up and review sorta like this but I'll be using it every weekend. 

Once I find out If I'm good to go back to work i will def. jump on it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Andyshine77

After reading this I may pick one up a 5020 this week. I'll run it a little an then port it. I think ported it should pull a 20" blade pretty well, I bet there is plenty of room for porting, and I'm sure the numbers are low with the torque it seems to have.


----------



## rca1

Really have enjoyed reading this thread. According to the Oregon catalog the saw should have a K095 mount that would allow the use of a shorter bar with the 3/8 chain.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Andyshine77 said:


> After reading this I may pick one up a 5020 this week. I'll run it a little an then port it. I think ported it should pull a 20" blade pretty well, I bet there is plenty of room for porting, and I'm sure the numbers are low with the torque it seems to have.



Andy, no doubt it's conservitive, and you will improve it alot and we will have fun seeing what you can do with one. 

That said, I just wanted to try one to see what kind of 50cc saw $200 would buy now days and if it would be decent for a few weekends a year warrior. 

Granted I have little time on this, but my first impressions are that its better then I expected. I didnt expect the carb to be adjusted correctly right out of the box but it pretty much was and I didnt expect it to pull a 20" bar with 3/8's as good as it does either. 

Everyone keeps talking of shorter bars etc and I agree, but I'm convinced the average Joe wouldnt need to do that at all and would be pretty much good to go with one straight out of the box.


----------



## Modifiedmark

rca1 said:


> Really have enjoyed reading this thread. According to the Oregon catalog the saw should have a K095 mount that would allow the use of a shorter bar with the 3/8 chain.



That right there is surprising. Oregon dont even have the 5020 listed in there selector guide but I looked it up online in the 2012 catalog and your right, they do list the 20" K095 mount bar for it. 

That useally wont work without modifications to the bar but I'll look today to see if they changed something on this one to allow that bar to work unmodified. Strange if the K095 mount will work that they only listed the 20" for it.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Well after some investigation, I found that I am the one with egg on my face. I was wrong on the bar mount, this saw does indeed use a K095 mount bar. Here is a picture that I took when I first broke this thing down to inspect it. I am so used to the K041 mounts on these mid sized Poulans I never noticed that the bar does indeed have the K095 style oiler hole in it. I can't belive that I missed that, but this is not a bad thing.







It just so happens I had a 16" 3/8's Power Match in K095 and put it on with a new 60DL Oregon 72LGX chain to try out.






I showed before how wide open the muffler was and how only the outlet was a little small and even though I had my doubts about how much could be gained from a muffler mod I went ahead and tried opening up the outlet a little more. It sure didnt hurt anything but there was no major gains or even noise for that matter. Not at first impression anyway. 

Before






After






I ran it a little bit and it run pretty darn good. I tuned it in the wood and checked it in the shop later and it was turning 12700 no load. I had it on the safe side of rich and I'm sure after its broken in, it could be leaned out a hair. 

Here are the videos, just remember this is some hard White Oak, so I think it done pretty darn good. 

<embed src="http://img717.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=P8wm" width="320" height="260" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/><br/>
<a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Modifiedmark">[More videos from Modifiedmark]</a>

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/3377/8wm.mp4



<embed src="http://img10.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=P2uc" width="320" height="260" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/><br/>
<a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Modifiedmark">[More videos from Modifiedmark]</a>

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/8260/2uc.mp4



<embed src="http://img51.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=Pl4d" width="320" height="260" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/><br/>
<a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Modifiedmark">[More videos from Modifiedmark]</a>

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/1216/l4d.mp4


----------



## jropo

:msp_ohmy:

I Really want one now!!!!

Thanks for the clip!


----------



## promac850

Well, that little sucker is purdy impressive...

When are you gonna send it out to be ported? I bet it'd be awesome... 

I think you forgot to tear the cat crap out of the muffler though. Can be torn out with pliers and a screwdriver...




If you decide you want to be done with it, holler... I just might want that little beast for a truck saw.


----------



## barneyrb

Modifiedmark said:


> Well after some investigation, I found that I am the one with egg on my face. I was wrong on the bar mount, this saw does indeed use a K095 mount bar. Here is a picture that I took when I first broke this thing down to inspect it. I am so used to the K041 mounts on these mid sized Poulans I never noticed that the bar does indeed have the K095 style oiler hole in it. I can't belive that I missed that, but this is not a bad thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It just so happens I had a 16" 3/8's Power Match in K095 and put it on with a new 60DL Oregon 72LGX chain to try out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed before how wide open the muffler was and how only the outlet was a little small and even though I had my doubts about how much could be gained from a muffler mod I went ahead and tried opening up the outlet a little more. It sure didnt hurt anything but there was no major gains or even noise for that matter. Not at first impression anyway.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran it a little bit and it run pretty darn good. I tuned it in the wood and checked it in the shop later and it was turning 12700 no load. I had it on the safe side of rich and I'm sure after its broken in, it could be leaned out a hair.
> 
> Here are the videos, just remember this is some hard White Oak, so I think it done pretty darn good.
> 
> <embed src="http://img717.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=P8wm" width="320" height="260" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/><br/>
> <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Modifiedmark">[More videos from Modifiedmark]</a>
> 
> http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/3377/8wm.mp4
> 
> 
> 
> <embed src="http://img10.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=P2uc" width="320" height="260" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/><br/>
> <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Modifiedmark">[More videos from Modifiedmark]</a>
> 
> http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/8260/2uc.mp4
> 
> 
> 
> <embed src="http://img51.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=Pl4d" width="320" height="260" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/><br/>
> <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Modifiedmark">[More videos from Modifiedmark]</a>
> 
> http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/1216/l4d.mp4



It looks good but can be better.....
:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## rms61moparman

Now do a moparman mod on that muffler, retune it and see how it does???

(at your convenience of course!:msp_tongue


Mike


----------



## 8433jeff

I think its worthy of the "stovepipe elbow" and some high temp black paint.
In your defense, Mark, thats a narrow 095, no belly to it at all. A model for me to aspire to, I suppose.


----------



## Stihl-Pioneer

Modifiedmark said:


> Well after some investigation, I found that I am the one with egg on my face. I was wrong on the bar mount, this saw does indeed use a K095 mount bar. Here is a picture that I took when I first broke this thing down to inspect it. I am so used to the K041 mounts on these mid sized Poulans I never noticed that the bar does indeed have the K095 style oiler hole in it. I can't belive that I missed that, but this is not a bad thing.



I would say that was a smarter thing for them to do especially in 3/8.


----------



## Modifiedmark

8433jeff said:


> I think its worthy of the "stovepipe elbow" and some high temp black paint.
> In your defense, Mark, thats a narrow 095, no belly to it at all. A model for me to aspire to, I suppose.



Chainbrakes in the way for a stove pipe on this one. 

Yeah I have to say this bar threw me, as like you say, its narrow and looks just like the Poulan 20's in K041. 

Techinally, this is probably not a K095 but is a Z095 since is carries a non standard drive link count.


----------



## wainohg

Thanks Mark. I sure have enjoyed this thread. I better stay away from Lowes as it sure has made me want to go & buy one of these.


----------



## Arrowhead

Good thread Mark. I can't believe it's not a plastic clutch cover. :msp_thumbup:
I'd rather have the few extra ounces with the mag cover.


----------



## Stihl-Pioneer

Arrowhead said:


> Good thread Mark. I can't believe it's not a plastic clutch cover. :msp_thumbup:
> I'd rather have the few extra ounces with the mag cover.



We don't know for sure if it is mag or aluminum, or do we?:msp_confused:

But I agree I like the metal cover.


----------



## nick 55

Shave a small sliver off the inside of it and hit it with a butane torch. The magnesium would burn through your workbench and into the floor. Aluminum will just melt.

Nick


----------



## PLMCRZY

Damn that sucker is a runner for the money. I almost went and picked one up yesterday, but I ordered ak parts instead. 

Good review Mark, btw I still think you should design a cool muffler mod for it! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NORMZILLA44

Great post Mark. When I worked for the saw mill I asked the owner why he had poulan, and not more Stihl, and husky which we had those too. He said you could not beat em especially for the price, and to many guys backed over saws with a forklift, or left em on a customer truck or whatever. I was impressed good runners. Had a buddy that's all he bought cut tons of firewood with em loved em. I picked up a 330 pro a few years ago for my father in law used, and like new for 100 bucks. He loves it, and it always starts and runs good for him. Been real dependable.


----------



## Modifiedmark

wainohg said:


> Thanks Mark. I sure have enjoyed this thread. I better stay away from Lowes as it sure has made me want to go & buy one of these.



Well if you do stroll into a Lowes, see if they price match, then tell em Menards has em on sale for $179 and save yourself $40. 





NORMZILLA44 said:


> Great post Mark. When I worked for the saw mill I asked the owner why he had poulan, and not more Stihl, and husky which we had those too. He said you could not beat em especially for the price, and to many guys backed over saws with a forklift, or left em on a customer truck or whatever. I was impressed good runners. Had a buddy that's all he bought cut tons of firewood with em loved em. I picked up a 330 pro a few years ago for my father in law used, and like new for 100 bucks. He loves it, and it always starts and runs good for him. Been real dependable.



Norm, your boss wasnt a AS member was he? :hmm3grin2orange: He probably wouldnt have been making any money with those things other wise. 

Really though I'm not getting into all that, and its not the reason for this thread. 

I was curious, thats all, but even now I'm still curious some as to the why part of it, but I think I'm getting the why part down now. 

On sale for $179 and most the time found for $200-$220. Turns out its a pretty decent little saw and a great deal for the money and in fact might be the best deal going right now for a Consumer/Homeowner chainsaw. 

What has surprised me the most is this thing was ready to go right out of the box. Yeah I experimented with the carb tuning but really I ended up with it basically right where it started. To be quite honest, I bought 3 PP4218 refurbs a couple weeks ago and they were pretty much right out of the box also. 

The 5020 though is only runnnig a few bucks more then the 4218's and there is no comparison between them, the 5020 is better all around. 

While I have not had the chance to really cut much with this yet, from the testing I have done, I would have to say if some homeowner needed a one saw plan and didnt want to or couldnt spend alot, or like was mentioned someone needed a a cheap tractor/truck saw this one would have to be considered.


----------



## barneyrb

HHHMMMMMMM, a new Poulan 50cc saw is $179 and what can you get from Stihl for the same money, a MS170? Which one has more value for my $$$$$$$


----------



## Modifiedmark

barneyrb said:


> HHHMMMMMMM, a new Poulan 50cc saw is $179 and what can you get from Stihl for the same money, a MS170? Which one has more value for my $$$$$$$





Yep, some one else who "gets it"


----------



## Chris J.

Mark, thanks for the thread & review. 

I have my Husky 51 & Poulan Pro 4620), but I'd give the 5020 a serious look if I was looking for an inexpensive yet worthy 50cc saw. Hopefully one the fellas who posted having a 5020 will use it frequently and post a long-term review.

Maybe those new Pull-Ons aren't so bad after all   .


----------



## rms61moparman

barneyrb said:


> HHHMMMMMMM, a new Poulan 50cc saw is $179 and what can you get from Stihl for the same money, a MS170? Which one has more value for my $$$$$$$





Can you even still get an MS170 for $179.00???
I thought they went up along with everything else.

Mike


----------



## sawinredneck

Yup, I was at the dealer the other day, MS170 was $179, MS180 was $219.


----------



## Andyshine77

rms61moparman said:


> Can you even still get an MS170 for $179.00???
> I thought they went up along with everything else.
> 
> Mike



Mike the list on a 170 is $179 stamped rod and all lol. The 5020 really seems to be a good bang for the buck, and an above average box store saw. hopefully the manufactures will see there is a market for a middle of the road homeowner saw, a new mag case Poulan would be sweet.


----------



## barneyrb

Ok, I couldn't stand it, one is on the way to Louisiana right now off evil bay. 

Mark, be sure and make timed cuts in a block of wood to compare mine to or better yet, just hang on to yours for about a month and mine will be along shortly for comparison.

Maybe we can meet up at one of the GTG's to run them side x side and see what the difference can be. This ought to be fun.......


----------



## rms61moparman

barneyrb said:


> Ok, I couldn't stand it, one is on the way to Louisiana right now off evil bay.
> 
> Mark, be sure and make timed cuts in a block of wood to compare mine to or better yet, just hang on to yours for about a month and mine will be along shortly for comparison.
> 
> Maybe we can meet up at one of the GTG's to run them side x side and see what the difference can be. This ought to be fun.......





Dang Randy!!!

Patience isn't your strong suit is it!!!LOL
Can't wait to see what you can make of it!
Heck in a couple of years this may make a whale of a build off saw.

Mike


----------



## Modifiedmark

Dang Randy, what he said. :hmm3grin2orange:

After seeing what you did with that 330 theres no doubt that 2050 will be killing 50cc saws left and right. 

I'm not much into timing cuts but I might just for you. I think I'll time some in a oak log then send the log to you so they will be timed in the same piece of wood. My UPS man ought to love me.


----------



## Sprintcar

Dang it, now I want one. $179.00 you say, wheres Lowes.

:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## Vibes

You all could save yourself a few bucks and get the clearance 50cc Craftsmans on Ebay. They look like the same saw. Probably returned on the Sears loaner program. Most of them don't look like they've may be cut a fallen branch and returned after the chain got loose.


----------



## Chris J.

Vibes said:


> You all could save yourself a few bucks and get the clearance 50cc Craftsmans on Ebay. They look like the same saw. Probably returned on the Sears loaner program. Most of them don't look like they've may be cut a fallen branch and returned after the chain got loose.



I've got a Sears Clearance store very near me, haven't checked out their stock in many years. Maybe it's time to stop in (just to window shop, of course).


----------



## Cliff R

Lowe's doesn't stock em here. Just a couple of green Poulans around $89-119, and one yellow model with a black top around $150. Little chance of getting a lightly used unit brought back by someone who just "borrowed" it after a windstorm took out a couple trees in his back yard, and returned it under Lowe's "no questions asked" return policy......Cliff


----------



## old guy

Hi Guys, I'm new around here, not new to saws tho, after reading this thread maybe I can add something. A couple of years ago I picked up a Poulan Farmhand 2900 46cc 20" bar with .325 chain so maybe a sprocket from one of these might fit the 5020. I gotta tell Ya how I got this saw, at a garage sale it was marked $7.00, not seventy, seven dollars, it looked nearly new and had 3 extra new chains still in plastic a scrench and a small bottle of oil. 

I asked the Ladies what was wrong with it and they said it wouldn't start, I pulled it over and it had comp. so I gave em $7.00 took it home and pulled the top off and cleaned a 1/2" of crud off the air cleaner and it fired on the 3rd pull

John


----------



## zogger

old guy said:


> Hi Guys, I'm new around here, not new to saws tho, after reading this thread maybe I can add something. A couple of years ago I picked up a Poulan Farmhand 2900 46cc 20" bar with .325 chain so maybe a sprocket from one of these might fit the 5020. I gotta tell Ya how I got this saw, at a garage sale it was marked $7.00, not seventy, seven dollars, it looked nearly new and had 3 extra new chains still in plastic a scrench and a small bottle of oil.
> 
> I asked the Ladies what was wrong with it and they said it wouldn't start, I pulled it over and it had comp. so I gave em $7.00 took it home and pulled the top off and cleaned a 1/2" of crud off the air cleaner and it fired on the 3rd pull
> 
> John



that's the way to score good saws!


----------



## zogger

Cliff R said:


> Lowe's doesn't stock em here. Just a couple of green Poulans around $89-119, and one yellow model with a black top around $150. Little chance of getting a lightly used unit brought back by someone who just "borrowed" it after a windstorm took out a couple trees in his back yard, and returned it under Lowe's "no questions asked" return policy......Cliff



searsoutlet online has several (craftsman version, 50 cc), I just checked. No idea what stores are near you though.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Vibes said:


> You all could save yourself a few bucks and get the clearance 50cc Craftsmans on Ebay. They look like the same saw. Probably returned on the Sears loaner program. Most of them don't look like they've may be cut a fallen branch and returned after the chain got loose.



You might get a deal on those but you might get hooked also. Better get em dang cheap, like less then $100 or you might as well just go buy one with a warranty. 



Cliff R said:


> Lowe's doesn't stock em here. Just a couple of green Poulans around $89-119, and one yellow model with a black top around $150. Little chance of getting a lightly used unit brought back by someone who just "borrowed" it after a windstorm took out a couple trees in his back yard, and returned it under Lowe's "no questions asked" return policy......Cliff



So you been shopping for one of these 5020's? :msp_biggrin:

Dont Cliff, there Poulans, you wont like them, they hate you. Seriously, this one aint for you, there a homeowner special that are only made to cut wood. They do seem to be a good homeowner special especially for what little they cost. 



old guy said:


> Hi Guys, I'm new around here, not new to saws tho, after reading this thread maybe I can add something. A couple of years ago I picked up a Poulan Farmhand 2900 46cc 20" bar with .325 chain so maybe a sprocket from one of these might fit the 5020. I gotta tell Ya how I got this saw, at a garage sale it was marked $7.00, not seventy, seven dollars, it looked nearly new and had 3 extra new chains still in plastic a scrench and a small bottle of oil.
> 
> I asked the Ladies what was wrong with it and they said it wouldn't start, I pulled it over and it had comp. so I gave em $7.00 took it home and pulled the top off and cleaned a 1/2" of crud off the air cleaner and it fired on the 3rd pull
> 
> John



Nope the 2900 sprocket will not work, too small dia to fit. 

Like I said earlier, since there is a good selection of small Husky mount bars, there is no big reason to switch to .325 at this point. It seems to pull the 16" bar pretty darn good. I should get a couple of other 50cc saws in that same log so you can see its doing a pretty good job as that wood is hard.


----------



## MS460WOODCHUCK

Modifiedmark said:


> I should get a couple of other 50cc saws in that same log so you can see its doing a pretty good job as that wood is hard.



This sounds like a pretty good idea there Mark! We'll be waiting...


----------



## Cliff R

"So you been shopping for one of these 5020's? 

Dont Cliff, there Poulans, you wont like them, they hate you. Seriously, this one aint for you, there a homeowner special that are only made to cut wood. They do seem to be a good homeowner special especially for what little they cost."

Not the first bit interested in one, but thanks for looking out for me. I just happened to be in Lowe's grabbing a twin back of 52 DL 3/8 LP Oregon chain. I usually buy my chains from one of the AS sponsers, but had a gift certificate to use up at Lowe's. I took a look at the Poulan's they offered, the 5020 was not among them, not much more to it than that.....Cliff


----------



## Vibes

I was watching a few last week that went for around $70 plus shipping. Heck if they aren't what the buyer says, you can send them back on Ebay now probably easier than you can to Sears.


----------



## Andyshine77

Had a look at the 5020 a few hours ago, for the price it looked OK. I wouldn't say it's anything close to a 271 Stihl or a Husky 455 in overall quality, but remember the 5020 is less than half the price of the 271 or a 455, so yes I'd say it's a good buy.

Now I just looked over the saw, but I did see a few potential weak points. The rear handle that is part of the fuel tank seemed quite weak and it had a lot of flex, I wouldn't want to pull on it much at all. Like Mark said the filter didn't seem to fit all that tight, I could see making a simple clip or using a zip tie on the top to hold it down better. I can't say the filter is any worse than the lower end saw from the big names like Stihl or Husks, it may even be better. I mean both the much loved 260 and 361 had POS filters in my opinion. 

Well that's my .02 I still may just pick one up. 179 bucks for a new 50cc saw is hard for a Poulan lover to simply overlook lol.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Andyshine77 said:


> Had a look at the 5020 a few hours ago, for the price it looked OK. I wouldn't say it's anything close to a 271 Stihl or a Husky 455 in overall quality, but remember the 5020 is less than half the price of the 271 or a 455, so yes I'd say it's a good buy.
> 
> Now I just looked over the saw, but I did see a few potential weak points. The rear handle that is part of the fuel tank seemed quite weak and it had a lot of flex, I wouldn't want to pull on it much at all. Like Mark said the filter didn't seem to fit all that tight, I could see making a simple clip or using a zip tie on the top to hold it down better. I can't say the filter is any worse than the lower end saw from the big names like Stihl or Husks, it may even be better. I mean both the much loved 260 and 361 had POS filters in my opinion.
> 
> Well that's my .02 I still may just pick one up. 179 bucks for a new 50cc saw is hard for a Poulan lover to simply overlook lol.



Andy, I just dont see the rear handle weakness you speak of. The rear handle is NOT part of the fuel tank, it tied to the front handle and is spring mounted front and rear of the engine cradle. It dose seem to move pretty easy but I still dont see where that makes it weak. 

I'm not sticking up for it, just pointing out somethings a look at the store might not show very easy. 

The filter dont really concern me much at all. After running a full tank through it, there was nothing that I could see that made it past that filter. Remember this saw is air injected/super clean/ turbo whatever and it seems to work fine.


----------



## aiwnios

*Just do this...*



struggle said:


> I second the liking the wrench holder, it really is something every saw could use.


----------



## Andyshine77

Modifiedmark said:


> Andy, I just dont see the rear handle weakness you speak of. The rear handle is NOT part of the fuel tank, it tied to the front handle and is spring mounted front and rear of the engine cradle. It dose seem to move pretty easy but I still dont see where that makes it weak.
> 
> I'm not sticking up for it, just pointing out somethings a look at the store might not show very easy.
> 
> The filter dont really concern me much at all. After running a full tank through it, there was nothing that I could see that made it past that filter. Remember this saw is air injected/super clean/ turbo whatever and it seems to work fine.



Cool beans, like I said I just had a quick look at it, OK maybe not that quick. The rear handle on the clutch side where it turns upward seemed to flex quite a bit more than I like, and the top handle is pretty thin under the saw. Again we're talking about a 200 dollar saw. 

Don't get me wrong the filter is a vast improvement over the older models, and any saw in the same price range, but it could be better, a rubber seal would surely help. I'm just glad to see Poulan making a viable homeowner saw that can compete with the big boy brands.


----------



## Eccentric

*Northern Tool has the PP5020 on sale right now.*

Poulan Pro Chain Saw  50cc, 20in. Bar, Model# PP5020AV | Chain Saws | Northern Tool + Equipment

They've got it for $179.99. Regular price is $200.00. Was in the weekly email flyer I just got....


----------



## Stevek90

I liked the pic of the saw with the 16" Oregon power match bar. IMO those saws just look right with a 16" Prolite or Power match bar. I run a 16" prolite on my 295, I always cut oak and it seems decently matched when cutting near or full bar (for a little saw)


----------



## PLMCRZY

Eccentric said:


> Poulan Pro Chain Saw  50cc, 20in. Bar, Model# PP5020AV | Chain Saws | Northern Tool + Equipment
> 
> They've got it for $179.99. Regular price is $200.00. Was in the weekly email flyer I just got....



That one says it has a tool less chain tensioner. I wish I would hurry and heal up, I'm goin to test one doing a little volunteer work down here. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Modifiedmark

PLMCRZY said:


> That one says it has a tool less chain tensioner. I wish I would hurry and heal up, I'm goin to test one doing a little volunteer work down here.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Read it again you missed it saying no to the tooless adjuster.


----------



## zogger

PLMCRZY said:


> That one says it has a tool less chain tensioner. I wish I would hurry and heal up, I'm goin to test one doing a little volunteer work down here.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



regular bar nuts on that one.

I noticed at the bottom of the ad two more cool saws, that poulan plug in electric 4hp, reviews are pretty good on that one, and that cool hydraulic that bolts to your tractor FEL. That's pretty slick. Two grand worth of slick, but cool.


----------



## PLMCRZY

Modifiedmark said:


> Read it again you missed it saying no to the tooless adjuster.



Ya your right...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Pro_Marinero

So I've lurked on this site for years but am finally pulling the trigger.

I bought one of the ebay Craftsman returns last week from TADD wholesale. Got it for $75 delivered. I had my eye on nicer looking ones but I was waiting for one with a visible defect. I ended up with one with the recoil rope pulled all the way out. I figured I was better off shooting for one of those than a brand-new looking model that someone didn't put pre-mix in.

It's in pretty good shape. It's dirty with sawdust, but not bad and the chain is in good shape. The compression was fine on the saw. I thought I had scored when I pulled the recoil housing off and the rope instantly spun back up. I figured I was good to go so I put it back on and again it wouldn't catch and hung up. I pulled it back off and saw the inner plastic hub on the recoil was scarred up. I've ordered a new one today so it will be a little while before I can put it together, and I ordered a whole extra recoil kit as well figuring it may be a weak point ($15 for all to my door). I'm excited to see how it does. 

I would consider myself somewhere in the Joe Homeowner neighborhood. Although I don't know a ton about saw specifics like bars and chain, my dad was a dealer for years (Echo, Husky, Shindaiwa, Pioneer, Partner, and the merged P-P brand (he dropped it after they went to Poulan Pro)). and I can recognize a quality saw. I don't like to spend a lot on saws as I rarely need them. In fact, we recently had a big ice storm here in Puget Sound and I ended up with a lot of branches down. I easily took care of everything with my little Echo CS-3000. It's over-barred with a 16" bar but I use it for clearing trails on my motorcycle. I'm more about portability than cutting speed with it and I'm able to do whatever I come across on the Cascade trails I ride, so it works. 

Anyway, when I had all the branches down I realized that it would be nice to have something with some more oomph for the longer days of cutting. My dad had an MS310 with 15 minutes on it in his shop a guy had given him after driving over it and breaking the rear handle. I tried to finagle that one but he had plans of selling it. After checking prices for used saws on Craigslist in the 3-3.5 inch range, I had no desire to spend that much. I looked at everything from Homelite XL's to Echo 670's. I really like Echo equipment and it's all I own, but I just couldn't justify that much for a saw. I even turned down a $350 brand-new 600p  . As little as I use a saw, I could spend that money better other places. I stumbled on the bigger Craftsman after seeing one for sale on CL and did some searching on here. I read good things so I figured I would look for one. For $75 plus a few parts, I'm thrilled. :msp_w00t:

Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for justifying my purchase and being reasonable about what people really need. I get tired of "knowledgeable" people pushing Stihls or Huskys on people who are going to fire them up three times a year at best, and then make them feel stupid for buying an inexpensive brand. Tool quality is important, but it's also all about the use. I work on all of my own stuff but I honestly have a lot of Harbor Freight tools. If my livelihood was a mechanic, I would own Snap-On or Matco. The thing is... I'm not. Therefore my tools work great when I need them and I've saved my money for other stuff. 

Appreciate everyone's objectivity in this comparison. Use over a lifetime is an important consideration when purchasing something of varying build qualities. My dad owns a Husky 66 and I think it's had two hours on it in 25 years. :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## rms61moparman

Pro_Marinero said:


> So I've lurked on this site for years but am finally pulling the trigger.
> 
> I bought one of the ebay Craftsman returns last week from TADD wholesale. Got it for $75 delivered. I had my eye on nicer looking ones but I was waiting for one with a visible defect. I ended up with one with the recoil rope pulled all the way out. I figured I was better off shooting for one of those than a brand-new looking model that someone didn't put pre-mix in.
> 
> It's in pretty good shape. It's dirty with sawdust, but not bad and the chain is in good shape. The compression was fine on the saw. I thought I had scored when I pulled the recoil housing off and the rope instantly spun back up. I figured I was good to go so I put it back on and again it wouldn't catch and hung up. I pulled it back off and saw the inner plastic hub on the recoil was scarred up. I've ordered a new one today so it will be a little while before I can put it together, and I ordered a whole extra recoil kit as well figuring it may be a weak point ($15 for all to my door). I'm excited to see how it does.
> 
> I would consider myself somewhere in the Joe Homeowner neighborhood. Although I don't know a ton about saw specifics like bars and chain, my dad was a dealer for years (Echo, Husky, Shindaiwa, Pioneer, Partner, and the merged P-P brand (he dropped it after they went to Poulan Pro)). and I can recognize a quality saw. I don't like to spend a lot on saws as I rarely need them. In fact, we recently had a big ice storm here in Puget Sound and I ended up with a lot of branches down. I easily took care of everything with my little Echo CS-3000. It's over-barred with a 16" bar but I use it for clearing trails on my motorcycle. I'm more about portability than cutting speed with it and I'm able to do whatever I come across on the Cascade trails I ride, so it works.
> 
> Anyway, when I had all the branches down I realized that it would be nice to have something with some more oomph for the longer days of cutting. My dad had an MS310 with 15 minutes on it in his shop a guy had given him after driving over it and breaking the rear handle. I tried to finagle that one but he had plans of selling it. After checking prices for used saws on Craigslist in the 3-3.5 inch range, I had no desire to spend that much. I looked at everything from Homelite XL's to Echo 670's. I really like Echo equipment and it's all I own, but I just couldn't justify that much for a saw. I even turned down a $350 brand-new 600p  . As little as I use a saw, I could spend that money better other places. I stumbled on the bigger Craftsman after seeing one for sale on CL and did some searching on here. I read good things so I figured I would look for one. For $75 plus a few parts, I'm thrilled. :msp_w00t:
> 
> *Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for justifying my purchase and being reasonable about what people really need. I get tired of "knowledgeable" people pushing Stihls or Huskys on people who are going to fire them up three times a year at best, and then make them feel stupid for buying an inexpensive brand. Tool quality is important, but it's also all about the use. I work on all of my own stuff but I honestly have a lot of Harbor Freight tools. If my livelihood was a mechanic, I would own Snap-On or Matco. The thing is... I'm not. Therefore my tools work great when I need them and I've saved my money for other stuff.
> 
> Appreciate everyone's objectivity in this comparison. Use over a lifetime is an important consideration when purchasing something of varying build qualities. My dad owns a Husky 66 and I think it's had two hours on it in 25 years. * :hmm3grin2orange:






Dang!

I wish I'd have said that!!!


Oh wait,..............................................I believe I HAVE said the very same thing several times!
It is nice to be vindicated.........thanks!


Mike


----------



## Modifiedmark

Pro_Marinero, Good post and welcome. 

You make a lot of sense with that post as well and it is 100% right on for alot of people, and it just so happens that most of the average chainsaw buyers and users are not AS members. 

I think these PP/Sears 5020's will be a good choice for lots of those people and truth be told it would probably suffice for more then a few members here as well.


----------



## nick 55

Like these guys said, welcome aboard. Just don't spend too much time here or you will end up like us and have way too many saws. Some of which are sought out for being absolute cherry, near NOS works of magnesium art that none of your "normal" friends will ever understand. Kind of like that 40 year old that collects comic books and goes to the Star Trek conventions wearing Klingon costumes. I swear, some of us probably have Poulan/Stihl/Husqvarna/Homelite/etc pajamas they sleep in at night.

No harm intended.

Nick


----------



## zogger

Pro_Marinero said:


> So I've lurked on this site for years but am finally pulling the trigger.
> 
> I bought one of the ebay Craftsman returns last week from TADD wholesale. Got it for $75 delivered. ......
> Appreciate everyone's objectivity in this comparison. Use over a lifetime is an important consideration when purchasing something of varying build qualities. My dad owns a Husky 66 and I think it's had two hours on it in 25 years. :hmm3grin2orange:



Hey cool, good price. I'd like to get one eventually. Looking forward to a longer review when you go out and cut more with it.


----------



## barneyrb

Well, I got one in that will go under the knife shortly. It is the black (sears) version and I've already pulled the muffler and this saw is brand new. 

It's going to be a couple of weeks before it's turn comes up in the shop but it will get a higher compression piston, ported, polished, and I fully intend to find the breaking point (if there is one). I will take full pictures of the internals and post them in this thread.

So before anyone starts asking that saw is 17th in line right now.


----------



## PLMCRZY

barneyrb said:


> Well, I got one in that will go under the knife shortly. It is the black (sears) version and I've already pulled the muffler and this saw is brand new.
> 
> It's going to be a couple of weeks before it's turn comes up in the shop but it will get a higher compression piston, ported, polished, and I fully intend to find the breaking point (if there is one). I will take full pictures of the internals and post them in this thread.
> 
> So before anyone starts asking that saw is 17th in line right now.



Looking forward to that! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Santaclause

*the sound of it*

the thing sounds just like my old husky 40!!! the sound of it I have a poulan pro straight shaft trimmer doesnt do bad I think it could use a little fine tunning but dont have the special tools for that.I would like to thank you Mark for doing this and showing the little videos of it in use I dont think it would be a bad saw for a homeowner at all I would like a saw with a bigger bar myself but could never justify paying 7-800.00 dollars for a stihl or husky pro model. I got a hell of a deal on the 40 way back when I was a teenager only used a bit for a ice storm we had and then walla wanted to sell it so that is how I ended up with a husky and is a great saw just used it today to cut up a tree at my inlaws.Would be very tempted to buy one of these when ready....


----------



## IQRaceworks

Great thread!! I've been looking around for a decent inexpensive saw to replace my old 2175 Poulan that I have. Well, not really replace it...it just doesn't have enough power for some larger jobs. I use my saw probably 2-3 times per year....mostly for cutting firewood, or doing limbing. I recently helped out a friend who had lots of big (10"-18") cedars downed on his property from tornado damage. My little Poulan had a VERY hard time getting through them.....it just didn't have the power. That's when I decided I wanted a bigger saw for bigger jobs. 

I was looking at the Stihl 290, and the Husky 445 .....but after reading this thread, and seeing that I didn't need to spend $400+ on a saw that would only get used a few times a year, I deiced to go and look at the Poulan Pro 2050's. I was able to get Lowe's to match the price that Amazon had on them ($199), so I decided to buy it. That's an extra $200 that I can use for PPE, or a new chain/bar if I ever decided to change it out. After I put some fuel and bar oil in it, it fired right up after a few pulls. Can't wait to test this thing out. For what I need....this saw was an awesome deal. :msp_smile:

Here it is next to my small Poulan 2175.


----------



## job247

I replaced the original vanguard chain that came on mine with a regular full chisel chain and that made a big difference. So far I like the saw. For the price I dont think you could beat it for a homeowner saw or a back up saw when going to the woods.:msp_thumbsup:


----------



## Modifiedmark

Stephen C. said:


> good reading, thanks Mark. I eyeballed those saw and posted my observations when Sears came out with them. I thought they looked pretty good. :hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> How does it compare to a Poulan 330 in performance?



Why would you think about comparing it to a PP330? The 330 is a larger, pro constructed saw that sold for near double that when introduced years ago. I posted videos of this saws performace in this thread, see for yourself. 

This PP5020 is what it is.


IQRaceworks, you sound like the type that this saw was made for and will probably suit you very well. .


----------



## joe25DA

IQRaceworks said:


> Great thread!! I've been looking around for a decent inexpensive saw to replace my old 2175 Poulan that I have. Well, not really replace it...it just doesn't have enough power for some larger jobs. I use my saw probably 2-3 times per year....mostly for cutting firewood, or doing limbing. I recently helped out a friend who had lots of big (10"-18") cedars downed on his property from tornado damage. My little Poulan had a VERY hard time getting through them.....it just didn't have the power. That's when I decided I wanted a bigger saw for bigger jobs.
> 
> I was looking at the Stihl 290, and the Husky 445 .....but after reading this thread, and seeing that I didn't need to spend $400+ on a saw that would only get used a few times a year, I deiced to go and look at the Poulan Pro 2050's. I was able to get Lowe's to match the price that Amazon had on them ($199), so I decided to buy it. That's an extra $200 that I can use for PPE, or a new chain/bar if I ever decided to change it out. After I put some fuel and bar oil in it, it fired right up after a few pulls. Can't wait to test this thing out. For what I need....this saw was an awesome deal. :msp_smile:
> 
> Here it is next to my small Poulan 2175.



nice saws irc. i like your floor too


----------



## cat-face timber

Great thread and review
thank you


----------



## Stihl-Pioneer

Stephen C. said:


> I don't own a tach so I have no idea what rpm's the 330 turns.



Max is up there on a 330, 13,800


----------



## Modifiedmark

I do know the 5020 is no match for a PP330 especially if the 20" bar is buried. 

I also just got a new eye opening. I just came in from testing a Stihl MS290 that I just fixed for a guy. Clean low hour saw with its original 18" bar with the goofy .325 pitch Stihl safety chain on it. 

To all that are #####ing about the Vanguard chain on the 5020 I say be darn glad they didnt put a chain on it like they did the MS290. 

I just tested this MS290 with a fresh sharping on the chain and I have no doubts the 5020 will out cut it as there setup from the factory. 

The antivibe is tons better on it as well.


----------



## zogger

Stephen C. said:


> Because the 330 is the only saw I have used recently, an older design with 54 cc's instead of a newer design with 50cc I would expect them to be somewhat similar in performance when new and in stock condition, but since I have never run one I have no way of knowing so I thought I would ask someone who has run them both. I don't own a tach so I have no idea what rpm's the 330 turns.
> 
> I have a very slow connection and the videos constantly freeze up so I can't get much usefull information from them. Even the fastest saw can take a minute or two to make a cut when viewed on my computer.



I haven't run either, so I'll guess for both of us! 

I would guess the newer strato saw has faster chain speed, and cuts fast, and the older saw has a slower speed but more torque. The newer saw will undoubtedly get better mileage as well.


----------



## JimM

zogger said:


> I haven't run either, so I'll guess for both of us!
> 
> I would guess the newer strato saw has faster chain speed, and cuts fast, and the older saw has a slower speed but more torque. The newer saw will undoubtedly get better mileage as well.



I haven't put my tach on the 5020, but I doubt it is even close to turning the r's of a 330.


----------



## IQRaceworks

What's the best way to turn the carb adjustment screws on my new Poulan 5020? Instead of a standard slot that I can turn with a screwdriver....the screws on the carb are just knurled on the outside. Is there a special tool I need??


----------



## nick 55

Yes, there is a tool. Its about $6 and can be found on the bay or from various online vendors. I don't know if it can be bought from a local saw shop or not.

Nick


----------



## Cliff R

It's a waste of time to make comparisons between different saws of similiar CC's unless they are using the same length bar and type of chain. The 5020 featured here appears a bit "weak" in the videos with the bar buried. It really doesn't have a fighting chance outfitted with the Vanguard chain, IMHO. Even in perfect shape those chains don't work all that well. After 2-3 sharpenings they are really starting to cut poorly. I have a Poulan 330 in here right now for repairs, with it's original 22" bar and VG chain. It's been hand sharpened several times by the owner, who knows little to nothing about saws and sharpening chains. When I tested it in the wood pile in a big log, it just put out dust and had to be "pushed" pretty hard to cut very well at all. Even after being straightened up and correctly sharpened, it was just OK, not cutting nearly as well as standard 3/8" Oregon chain without any safety features in the same condition. 

Back when I purchased several Poulan 330's here, they did the same thing, cut OK at first, then cutting performance deteriorated rapidly with each sharpning. The 330's are pretty much maxxed out with 22" bar right to start with, so I modded a Husqvarna small mount 18" bar and did some additonal testing. The 330 really started to show it's colors at that point, it was a completely different saw at all levels. I suspect one would see the same thing with the 5020 in question here. To have a fighting chance it needs a shorter bar, and good chain without any safety features.

Another thing to mention here is the "Stratto" engine. Afer working with several of them here, I've noticed that it doesn't help them much to drift to far from the factory settings. When leaned up to make them rev, the power curve is narrowed up some, and they fall out of the good power easier, than when adjusted with a slightly richer "H" speed setting. I also noticed that the ones I had in here to work with, had pretty free flowing mufflers on them, and that muffler modding them made them a LOT louder, but very little, if any improvement in cutting performance.......Cliff


----------



## IQRaceworks

Thanks for all the great info. What would be a good chain to replace the 72 vanguard chain that came on my 5020 with?


----------



## redheadwoodshed

IQRaceworks said:


> Thanks for all the great info. What would be a good chain to replace the 72 vanguard chain that came on my 5020 with?



In my opinion Stihl makes the best chain.I don't know the numbers off the top of my head, but I mostly run 3/8" full comp. round chisel.
That said, I don't think that saw should have came with a 20" bar or 3/8" chain.An 18" with .325 would have been better.Just one opinion.


----------



## zogger

IQRaceworks said:


> Thanks for all the great info. What would be a good chain to replace the 72 vanguard chain that came on my 5020 with?



Is that .325 chain, or 3/8ths? What's on it now? Makes a difference.

Determine which it is, then try either the oregon or stihl chain product selector, go for pro grade for a replacement, not homerenter grade.


----------



## Cliff R

That said, I don't think that saw should have came with a 20" bar or 3/8" chain.An 18" with .325 would have been better.Just one opinion." 

+1 

Stihl makes good chain, so does Oregon. Any brand having "safety features" isn't going to work as well as chain that doesn't, especially after you sharpen it and the cutters get smaller, but the safety features don't.

I've ran into brand new lengths of Stihl chain recently that didn't cut worth two squirts of duck poop out of the box. All of them were purchased at our local John Deere store, who is also a Stihl dealer. Sucks to have to sharpen a brand new chain before you use it. Never had this happen with Oregon chain, they usually show up cutting as good as or better than after a complete/correct sharpening with a new file.....Cliff


----------



## Vibes

Cliff R said:


> That said, I don't think that saw should have came with a 20" bar or 3/8" chain.An 18" with .325 would have been better.Just one opinion."
> 
> +1
> 
> Stihl makes good chain, so does Oregon. Any brand having "safety features" isn't going to work as well as chain that doesn't, especially after you sharpen it and the cutters get smaller, but the safety features don't.
> 
> I've ran into brand new lengths of Stihl chain recently that didn't cut worth two squirts of duck poop out of the box. All of them were purchased at our local John Deere store, who is also a Stihl dealer. Sucks to have to sharpen a brand new chain before you use it. Never had this happen with Oregon chain, they usually show up cutting as good as or better than after a complete/correct sharpening with a new file.....Cliff



Any brand having "safety features" isn't going to work as well as chain that doesn't

I ran a loop of some kind of Oregon safety chain on my Sears Pro Yellow Max 40cc saw. I ordered a 16 inch bar and 56 DL Woodsman Pro 30LP from Baileys, and it turned out I needed a 57 DL chain. I took the stock loop down to my local saw shop and had him make me a 57DL loop out of it. It cut better than I remember safety cutting. It wasn't 30 LP by any stretch, but I think safety chain is falling into the same argument that this thread is trying to dispose the myth of. 

The 5020 wasn't made for guys on this website!!! The guy that this saw is intended to be sold to is going to run it may be 2 hrs in 2 years. When the chain goes dull, this guy won't even remember when he bought the saw and he's going down to Sears or Lowes to get a new loop and if he's lucky the girl thats working that Sunday won't give him the wrong chain. This safety chain talk is starting to sound like the oil threads.


----------



## Chris-PA

Vibes said:


> The 5020 wasn't made for guys on this website!!! The guy that this saw is intended to be sold to is going to run it may be 2 hrs in 2 years. When the chain goes dull, this guy won't even remember when he bought the saw and he's going down to Sears or Lowes to get a new loop and if he's lucky the girl thats working that Sunday won't give him the wrong chain. This safety chain talk is starting to sound like the oil threads.


Sorry, but I would be perfectly happy with a 5020 - it looks well suited for what I do and I don't doubt I could run it hard for 12 years just like I did my old Craftsman WildThing. Of course, I'm not drinking the Coolaid that one needs an expensive mag cased saw to cut a lot of firewood. Gimmie a cheaper saw, well tuned and well maintained with a sharp chain. The thing is, I can't justify buying a 5020 because all my cheaper, older saws work too well.


----------



## zogger

*Au contraire*



Vibes said:


> Any brand having "safety features" isn't going to work as well as chain that doesn't
> 
> I ran a loop of some kind of Oregon safety chain on my Sears Pro Yellow Max 40cc saw. I ordered a 16 inch bar and 56 DL Woodsman Pro 30LP from Baileys, and it turned out I needed a 57 DL chain. I took the stock loop down to my local saw shop and had him make me a 57DL loop out of it. It cut better than I remember safety cutting. It wasn't 30 LP by any stretch, but I think safety chain is falling into the same argument that this thread is trying to dispose the myth of.
> 
> The 5020 wasn't made for guys on this website!!! The guy that this saw is intended to be sold to is going to run it may be 2 hrs in 2 years. When the chain goes dull, this guy won't even remember when he bought the saw and he's going down to Sears or Lowes to get a new loop and if he's lucky the girl thats working that Sunday won't give him the wrong chain. This safety chain talk is starting to sound like the oil threads.



I would actually like to get one of the new pp5020s, albeit with a different chain. They seem good value so far, based on the reports. Frankly, I am liking all the poulans I am touching so far, from oldest to newest. I keep going to other makes/models and invariably they are harder to work on, and the poulans seem to cut just as well or better, and are cheaper, with widescale parts availability except for the real old models. 

When you consider what the next step up is in price into the 50 Cc or near to it class, say a 445 or 55 rancher, around there, still being sold as a lowly "home mortgage payer" level saw, at twice the price, or a "pro" version being three times the price, well..are they *really* worth all that more in price due to some quality features present?

I can't answer that, just don't know. And this saw just hasn't been out long enough for anyone to know that yet, or speak on it with any authority. I'd like to see some reviews were it was taken out on the job in a professional setting, just to see how long they would last. Yes, most likely with a smaller bar and different chain.

I am thinking with this saw, plus the reports you really can run them with the stock settings, and the muff is already open, and a strato design that apparently meets all EPA regs without having a closed cat can, etc, is leading me to believe Poulan might have turned a corner and is on the way back to making competitive saws.

I mean, who knows? Maybe a coupla years ago they were sitting around poulan intergalactic headquarters and some dude piped up "You know guys, this building saws really ain't rocket surgery, there's no law says we *have* to build crap saws. Let's try one a little better quality like in the olden days, price it well below big orange brother here and..them other guys, the ones with the mercedes and beemers and overstuffed wallets..., and see what happens".


----------



## Modifiedmark

Vibes said:


> This safety chain talk is starting to sound like the oil threads.



Exactly! 

It really has nothing, nada, zip to do with the theme of this thread. Dont like the chain? Buy a new on of your choosing. 

Homeowner Joe will probably have the original 72V chain trashed beyond repair after the first or second outing anyway. Like I said earlier, at least it dont come with a chain like they send MS290's out the door with.








My 5020 will be going to its new owner Wednesday and I think it will suit him just fine. He takes it to his cabin in Wis and will use it to clean up the every so often blow down and cut a few wheelbarrows of fire wood now and then. As long as he drains the fuel out of it between uses it should work out well for that type of user for sure.


----------



## joe25DA

Modifiedmark said:


> Exactly!
> 
> It really has nothing, nada, zip to do with the theme of this thread. Dont like the chain? Buy a new on of your choosing.
> 
> Homeowner Joe will probably have the original 72V chain trashed beyond repair after the first or second outing anyway. Like I said earlier, at least it dont come with a chain like they send MS290's out the door with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This home owner JOE throws that $H!+ right in to the scrap barrel when it shows up on a saw!


----------



## Modifiedmark

joe25DA said:


> Modifiedmark said:
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly!
> 
> It really has nothing, nada, zip to do with the theme of this thread. Dont like the chain? Buy a new on of your choosing.
> 
> Homeowner Joe will probably have the original 72V chain trashed beyond repair after the first or second outing anyway. Like I said earlier, at least it dont come with a chain like they send MS290's out the door with.
> 
> 
> 
> This home owner JOE throws that $H!+ right in to the scrap barrel when it shows up on a saw!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Me too!
> 
> The Vanguard chain aint looking so bad compared to this as far as I'm concerned anyway.
Click to expand...


----------



## lps8

*great thread*

Congrats of a great thread, so you sold the saw?


----------



## Modifiedmark

Yeah its sold. 

I never really had plans to keep it to begin with, just wanted to check one out first hand.


----------



## joe25DA

We installed a coffee machine at Lowes last week, while i was there I got to at least pick one up. I liked the feel of the saw a lot. Nice looking too. Compared to the 455 right next to it the decision is even easier.


----------



## scottr

joe25DA said:


> Modifiedmark said:
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly!
> 
> It really has nothing, nada, zip to do with the theme of this thread. Dont like the chain? Buy a new on of your choosing.
> 
> Homeowner Joe will probably have the original 72V chain trashed beyond repair after the first or second outing anyway. Like I said earlier, at least it dont come with a chain like they send MS290's out the door with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This home owner JOE throws that $H!+ right in to the scrap barrel when it shows up on a saw!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Joe, is that 26RMC3 chain? If you have a good loop of it in .050 gauge maybe we could work out a deal . I'd like to try it on my 45cc Solo.
Click to expand...


----------



## Dan_IN_MN

Modifiedmark said:


> Yeah its sold.
> 
> I never really had plans to keep it to begin with, just wanted to check one out first hand.



Oh....I was going to ask you to pull the jug and post the construction of the rod. Forged or stamped?

Interesting witness marks on the depth gauges! I would be nice to have a progression of them on all chains! No guessing....just file down to the next mark! Oregon.... you out there listening? I'm going to send a PM to the Oregon engineer that's on here for the PowerSharp.


----------



## CTYank

redheadwoodshed said:


> In my opinion Stihl makes the best chain.I don't know the numbers off the top of my head, but I mostly run 3/8" full comp. round chisel.
> That said, *I don't think that saw should have came with a 20" bar* or 3/8" chain.An 18" with .325 would have been better.Just one opinion.



Maybe that's partly justification for the bar actually being 19". 

Anybody else remember when bar length specs could be verified by the tape? :msp_confused:


----------



## rms61moparman

I don't know about all the "extra" stuff here, but I'll be darned glad when Randy finishes porting the one he got and we see how they COULD be!!!!!


Mike


----------



## nick 55

Oh yeah! This could be the next build off saw!

Nick


----------



## Modifiedmark

nick 55 said:


> Oh yeah! This could be the next build off saw!
> 
> Nick



Damn I might have to buy another then. 

Its gone as of tomorrow. It has been sitting for probably 2 weeks or better and I just went and started it a bit ago. She was up and running in 2 pulls.


----------



## Chris J.

rms61moparman said:


> I don't know about all the "extra" stuff here, but I'll be darned glad when Randy finishes porting the one he got and we see how they COULD be!!!!!
> 
> 
> Mike



Is Randy (Mastermind, I'm guessing) going to port a 5020? Maybe there's a thread that I missed   :help:.


----------



## rms61moparman

Chris J. said:


> Is Randy (Mastermind, I'm guessing) going to port a 5020? Maybe there's a thread that I missed   :help:.




Not Randy Mastermind....Randy Barneyrb.


Mike


----------



## Modifiedmark

I myself am waiting to see what Randys ends up like. 

Tell you what, before yesterday I had no real experiance with a Husky 455 rancher. I got to fix the oiler on one, rebuilt the carb etc on it. Then I muffler modded it and got to run it some. 

Not bragging on the 5020 but for $200 less then the Rancher, it would be a easy decision for me to make between the two thats for sure. 

I didnt care much for that Rancher at all.


----------



## CTYank

Modifiedmark said:


> I myself am waiting to see what Randys ends up like.
> 
> Tell you what, before yesterday I had no real experiance with a Husky 455 rancher. I got to fix the oiler on one, rebuilt the carb etc on it. Then I muffler modded it and got to run it some.
> 
> Not bragging on the 5020 but for $200 less then the Rancher, it would be a easy decision for me to make between the two thats for sure.
> 
> I didnt care much for that Rancher at all.



Got one of each. Like 'em both. 455r has much better air-filter sealing- resorted to a bead of silicone on the PP5020. 455r also seems to have much better air pre-filtering (cyclone effect). Adjustable oiler a + also. Of course, I got a refurb 455r for $307- not rubbing it in, mind you.

PP5020 is still breaking-in/loosening-up at 5+ tanks. Main mixture is richened slightly from factory-setting as it breaks in. IME slow break-in means long life. :msp_wink:


----------



## Modifiedmark

CTYank said:


> Got one of each. Like 'em both. 455r has much better air-filter sealing- resorted to a bead of silicone on the PP5020. 455r also seems to have much better air pre-filtering (cyclone effect). Adjustable oiler a + also. Of course, I got a refurb 455r for $307- not rubbing it in, mind you.
> 
> PP5020 is still breaking-in/loosening-up at 5+ tanks. Main mixture is richened slightly from factory-setting as it breaks in. IME slow break-in means long life. :msp_wink:



Let me rephrase that. I dont care that much for the way the Rancher was put together. PITA to get the carb out and from the looks of it you would need to tear alot of that saw apart to even think about replaceing the impulse line on it. 

Wait till refurb 2050's start showing up at probably $150 or so. Will still be half the price of a 455 then. :msp_biggrin:


----------



## stubnail67

*phew!!!!*

that was a long read myeyes are getting squinty LOL.. nice job mark i will have to check these out.... but im pretty happy with the like new pp295 i got a few months back .. but will be waitin to see one of these on CL for 50 bucks that has a gummed:msp_rolleyes: carb *GRINS*


----------



## palmrose2

Modifiedmark said:


> Exactly!
> 
> It really has nothing, nada, zip to do with the theme of this thread. Dont like the chain? Buy a new on of your choosing.
> 
> Homeowner Joe will probably have the original 72V chain trashed beyond repair after the first or second outing anyway. Like I said earlier, at least it dont come with a chain like they send MS290's out the door with.


 That chain right thar can be modded in 2-3 minutes on a bench grinder. Goodby safety features. been there, done that.


----------



## Vibes

I am thinking with this saw, plus the reports you really can run them with the stock settings, and the muff is already open, and a strato design that apparently meets all EPA regs without having a closed cat can, etc, is leading me to believe Poulan might have turned a corner and is on the way back to making competitive saws.

I mean, who knows? Maybe a coupla years ago they were sitting around poulan intergalactic headquarters and some dude piped up "You know guys, this building saws really ain't rocket surgery, there's no law says we *have* to build crap saws. Let's try one a little better quality like in the olden days, price it well below big orange brother here 


I think you're on to something here Zogger. I just found out over the weekend that the Jonsered handheld blower that I bought 2 seasons ago is in fact a Poulan. I never read the tags with my glasses on to see what factory it came from, my Mower guy saw it in my truck the other day and told me, (yelled at me) that that what it is. I demoed the Echo blower that he sold, and did the same with the Jonsered, and I thought the Johny was better. I thought it worked better and deffinately felt better in my hands. I have carpal tunnel problems so fealing better is important.

He's also a Jonsered dealer and at the time didn't stock the blower that I bought. He doesn't like selling them because'' its only an EPA rated 50 hour motor.'' Well I didn't want to tell him that the thing should be dead then cause I've run it through its paces. I use it to dry my motorcycle, and dry the critters that I trap before I skin them. Kinda like an industial strength hair dryer, along with a little landscaping work now and then. My reveiw is an A+ FOR SURE! I've never touched the carb settings, and its run great since new. It starts easy but does take 20 seconds to warm up when cold started.

My only disappointment now will be if I find out that the yellow Poulan model could've been bought for less dough. I think I payed $139 for it new.I got a discount cause it was the dealer demo at that time. May be Poulan is turning the corner on there product. I'm wondering what there string trimmers are like. I'm in the market for a back-up


----------



## Walt41

I bought two Pouland PP335 trimmers on sale last August for $99/ea and opened the mufflers and retuned them, one has seen limited use but the other one has been used beyond commercially as a loaner and not had any issues. They are a nice unit and all the popular attachments fit their quick link assembly.


----------



## Vibes

Curiosity is killing this cat. Now I gotta look up those Poulan blowers and see what they're going for. $99 for a good trimmer is a great deal. Those older Poulan/Craftsman trimmers from about 8 years ago were junk. My X Wife bought one and it never ran right.


----------



## fossil

Vibes said:


> I am thinking with this saw, plus the reports you really can run them with the stock settings, and the muff is already open, and a strato design that apparently meets all EPA regs without having a closed cat can, etc, is leading me to believe Poulan might have turned a corner and is on the way back to making competitive saws.
> 
> I mean, who knows? Maybe a coupla years ago they were sitting around poulan intergalactic headquarters and some dude piped up "You know guys, this building saws really ain't rocket surgery, there's no law says we *have* to build crap saws. Let's try one a little better quality like in the olden days, price it well below big orange brother here
> 
> 
> I think you're on to something here Zogger. I just found out over the weekend that the Jonsered handheld blower that I bought 2 seasons ago is in fact a Poulan. I never read the tags with my glasses on to see what factory it came from, my Mower guy saw it in my truck the other day and told me, (yelled at me) that that what it is. I demoed the Echo blower that he sold, and did the same with the Jonsered, and I thought the Johny was better. I thought it worked better and deffinately felt better in my hands. I have carpal tunnel problems so fealing better is important.
> 
> He's also a Jonsered dealer and at the time didn't stock the blower that I bought. He doesn't like selling them because'' its only an EPA rated 50 hour motor.'' Well I didn't want to tell him that the thing should be dead then cause I've run it through its paces. I use it to dry my motorcycle, and dry the critters that I trap before I skin them. Kinda like an industial strength hair dryer, along with a little landscaping work now and then. My reveiw is an A+ FOR SURE! I've never touched the carb settings, and its run great since new. It starts easy but does take 20 seconds to warm up when cold started.
> 
> My only disappointment now will be if I find out that the yellow Poulan model could've been bought for less dough. I think I payed $139 for it new.I got a discount cause it was the dealer demo at that time. May be Poulan is turning the corner on there product. I'm wondering what there string trimmers are like. I'm in the market for a back-up



The EPA rating only indicates how long the polution levels the motor will operate at and still meet EPA emissions standards. It has nothing to do with motor longevity.


----------



## Vibes

The EPA rating only indicates how long the polution levels the motor will operate at and still meet EPA emissions standards. It has nothing to do with motor longevity.


I'm aware of that. Funny thing is if I knew it was a Poulan I probably wouldn't have bought it at all.


----------



## joecool85

Vibes said:


> I mean, who knows? Maybe a coupla years ago they were sitting around poulan intergalactic headquarters and some dude piped up "You know guys, this building saws really ain't rocket surgery, there's no law says we *have* to build crap saws.



I take credit for this new saw. In 2008 I wrote to Poulan complaining about how they don't have any good products anymore and that they need to make a 50cc saw that can compete with the Husqvarna 350. No silly names, no purple or bright green colors, just a nice, basic 50cc saw. And look, that's what they made!

P.S. I don't *actually* take credit, but it is cool that I wrote asking for this and a few years later they made it.


----------



## ford832

Lots of interesting reading here for sure,thanks Mark and others.
I googled it just out of curiosity to see who carried it north of the border and for how much.Given US and CDN basically par,I came up with this...... http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=poulan%20pro%205020&source=web&cd=9&ved=0CIQBEBYwCA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sears.com%2Fshc%2Fs%2Fp_10153_12605_SPM5876930407P%3FprdNo%3D3&ei=PEecT_rQKYipgwftk6WZDw&usg=AFQjCNHQu6PUbJUtz7xVP0U7VXI5dKHeLQ&cad=rja

$425 big ones:msp_scared: I think for that kind of $$ I'd be putting a little with it and looking elsewhere.


----------



## stubnail67

*219*



ford832 said:


> Lots of interesting reading here for sure,thanks Mark and others.
> I googled it just out of curiosity to see who carried it north of the border and for how much.Given US and CDN basically par,I came up with this...... http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=poulan%20pro%205020&source=web&cd=9&ved=0CIQBEBYwCA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sears.com%2Fshc%2Fs%2Fp_10153_12605_SPM5876930407P%3FprdNo%3D3&ei=PEecT_rQKYipgwftk6WZDw&usg=AFQjCNHQu6PUbJUtz7xVP0U7VXI5dKHeLQ&cad=rja
> 
> $425 big ones:msp_scared: I think for that kind of $$ I'd be putting a little with it and looking elsewhere.







lowes has em for 219


----------



## zogger

ford832 said:


> Lots of interesting reading here for sure,thanks Mark and others.
> I googled it just out of curiosity to see who carried it north of the border and for how much.Given US and CDN basically par,I came up with this...... http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=poulan%20pro%205020&source=web&cd=9&ved=0CIQBEBYwCA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sears.com%2Fshc%2Fs%2Fp_10153_12605_SPM5876930407P%3FprdNo%3D3&ei=PEecT_rQKYipgwftk6WZDw&usg=AFQjCNHQu6PUbJUtz7xVP0U7VXI5dKHeLQ&cad=rja
> 
> $425 big ones:msp_scared: I think for that kind of $$ I'd be putting a little with it and looking elsewhere.



That's silly. You can't get it online from amazon or ebay for 200 and have it shipped? Or do they ding you 100% import duty or something?


----------



## ford832

Duties would be killer for sure-they always are.I was just curious what they were worth up here.It's interesting how that ad says "Husqvarna Poulan" though.Makes it sound more pro I assume.


----------



## palmrose2

ford832 said:


> http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=poulan%20pro%205020&source=web&cd=9&ved=0CIQBEBYwCA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sears.com%2Fshc%2Fs%2Fp_10153_12605_SPM5876930407P%3FprdNo%3D3&ei=PEecT_rQKYipgwftk6WZDw&usg=AFQjCNHQu6PUbJUtz7xVP0U7VXI5dKHeLQ&cad=rja
> 
> $425 big ones:msp_scared: I think for that kind of $$ I'd be putting a little with it and looking elsewhere.



Look at the site a little closer and notice this in the lower left corner. 50 cc 20" Gas Chain Saw - Case Included- Craftsman-Lawn & Garden-Handheld Power Tools-Chain Saws I'm pretty sure it's the same saw with a different name. comes with a case just to bug the PoulanPro buyers.


----------



## ford832

You may well be right.It sure does look the same when you eyeball it up close doesn't it?


----------



## MS460WOODCHUCK

stubnail67 said:


> lowes has em for 219



Rural King has them for 200. Been thinking about one but dang I can't decide which saw to run out of the line up the way it is...:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## palmrose2

ford832 said:


> You may well be right.It sure does look the same when you eyeball it up close doesn't it?



It IS the same saw.


----------



## mt.stalker

Interesting thread


----------



## Chris J.

.
There's an eBay seller, taddwholesale, that regularily lists the Craftsman version of the Poulan Pro 5020. They're used, basically untested, usually come with the case, and tend to go for $70-$90 with about $30.00 shipping. They also currently have a PP5020 listed.

Their eBay listings don't give a lot of info, so you would need to check the photos, ask questions, and make a judgement call.

Note--One their Craftsman/Poulan 5020s recently went for $130.00 + shipping .


----------



## SawTroll

palmrose2 said:


> That chain right thar can be modded in 2-3 minutes on a bench grinder. Goodby safety features. been there, done that.



I seriously doubt the 2-3 minutes.


----------



## SawTroll

CTYank said:


> Maybe that's partly justification for the bar actually being 19".
> 
> Anybody else remember when bar length specs could be verified by the tape? :msp_confused:



I am pretty sure you are right about it being closer to 19" than to 20", since it takes only 70dl.

Too much on that saw anyway, 16" and .325 sounds much better! :msp_wink:


----------



## SawTroll

scottr said:


> joe25DA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Joe, is that 26RMC3 chain? If you have a good loop of it in .050 gauge maybe we could work out a deal . I'd like to try it on my 45cc Solo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the ol' RM2, that has been obsolete for a while.
Click to expand...


----------



## Modifiedmark

SawTroll said:


> I am pretty sure you are right about it being closer to 19" than to 20", since it takes only 70dl.
> 
> Too much on that saw anyway, 16" and .325 sounds much better! :msp_wink:




I agree but if you seen, getting a .325 drive spocket for one seems to be the big problem. Nice it has the K095 bar mount and the saw run really well with a 16" 3/8s setup so its not really that big a deal. 

70DL on a 20" has been standard on a Poulan forever.


----------



## SawTroll

Sorry to say, this saw looks like it is what the price indicates - and the price is low....


----------



## CTYank

SawTroll said:


> I am pretty sure you are right about it being closer to 19" than to 20", since it takes only 70dl.
> 
> Too much on that saw anyway, 16" and .325 sounds much better! :msp_wink:



Dunno about that. It handles stock bar with 3/8" chipper chain buried in red oak quite nicely. Cutting up one such stem recently, it partly filled my right front pocket with big chips. (Said stem was fortuitously suspended about shoulder ht.)

Got so many 3/8" pitch chains from old saws about, not interested in .325" pitch for some time. :msp_sleep:


----------



## Chris-PA

SawTroll said:


> Sorry to say, this saw looks like it is what the price indicates - and the price is low....


Yeah, a perfectly functional saw for the homeowner or firewood cutter at a reasonable price. An alternative to overpriced European saws.


----------



## SawTroll

CTYank said:


> Dunno about that. It handles stock bar with 3/8" chipper chain buried in red oak quite nicely. Cutting up one such stem recently, it partly filled my right front pocket with big chips. (Said stem was fortuitously suspended about shoulder ht.)
> 
> Got so many 3/8" pitch chains from old saws about, not interested in .325" pitch for some time. :msp_sleep:



That chain must be really old, if it really is chipper, and not semi-chisel!


----------



## Eccentric

Modifiedmark said:


> I agree but if you seen, getting a .325 drive spocket for one seems to be the big problem. Nice it has the K095 bar mount and the saw run really well with a 16" 3/8s setup so its not really that big a deal.
> 
> *70DL on a 20" has been standard on a Poulan forever.*



Yep.........also standard on Homelites, McCullochs, Remingtons...

Has more to do with the placement of the bar pad in relation to the crankshaft than the length of the bar. Then there 'exceptions'. A 20" bar on a Stihl takes 72DL of 3/8, which is the same as a Husky, and two more DL than these other saws. Go to a 28" bar and the Stihl takes 91DL, while the Homelite/Poulan/McCulloch saws take 92DL, and the Husky takes 93DL. A 16" bar on all of these saws takes 60DL (although 59DL sometimes works better on some Homelites).


----------



## Vibes

Chris J. said:


> .
> There's an eBay seller, taddwholesale, that regularily lists the Craftsman version of the Poulan Pro 5020. They're used, basically untested, usually come with the case, and tend to go for $70-$90 with about $30.00 shipping. They also currently have a PP5020 listed.
> 
> Their eBay listings don't give a lot of info, so you would need to check the photos, ask questions, and make a judgement call.
> 
> Note--One their Craftsman/Poulan 5020s recently went for $130.00 + shipping .



Have you got one from TADD wholesale? I've watched them and some of the nicer looking ones go for a little higher. I think that place just buys and resells piles of returned merchandise. Of course the Sears loaner program would be a good opportunity to get a deal on a once used saw, but it could be a crapshoot. Was that returned saw straight gased or was it used to saw up a limb and returned when the job was done? I

like the warraunty with a new one for $200. May be try and get some coupon somehow and get one new from Amazon or something like that. I'm getting a gift card with my Discover Cash Back bonus awards and hoping I can use it on one of these saws .


----------



## Chris J.

Vibes said:


> Have you got one from TADD wholesale? I've watched them and some of the nicer looking ones go for a little higher. I think that place just buys and resells piles of returned merchandise. Of course the Sears loaner program would be a good opportunity to get a deal on a once used saw, but it could be a crapshoot. Was that returned saw straight gased or was it used to saw up a limb and returned when the job was done? I
> 
> like the warraunty with a new one for $200. May be try and get some coupon somehow and get one new from Amazon or something like that. I'm getting a gift card with my Discover Cash Back bonus awards and hoping I can use it on one of these saws .




Sorry, but no I haven't purchased anything from TW, I'm pretty well set with 50cc saws, and I'm also cheap & broke . I mentioned taddwholesale here in case anyone wanted to take a chance and save a few bucks (you're right, the bids have been going higher). I'm pretty sure that none of our site sponsors sell used Craftsman chainsaws.


----------



## A.E. Metal Werx

*Limiting coil*

Has anyone found out if this saw comes with a rev limiting coil?


----------



## Modifiedmark

mx_racer428 said:


> Has anyone found out if this saw comes with a rev limiting coil?



I tested it quite a bit when tuning it and found nothing to believe it is a limited coil.


----------



## Applehead

Vibes said:


> I am thinking with this saw, plus the reports you really can run them with the stock settings, and the muff is already open, and a strato design that apparently meets all EPA regs without having a closed cat can, etc, is leading me to believe Poulan might have turned a corner and is on the way back to making competitive saws.
> 
> I mean, who knows? Maybe a coupla years ago they were sitting around poulan intergalactic headquarters and some dude piped up "You know guys, this building saws really ain't rocket surgery, there's no law says we *have* to build crap saws. Let's try one a little better quality like in the olden days, price it well below big orange brother here
> 
> 
> I think you're on to something here Zogger. *I just found out over the weekend that the Jonsered handheld blower that I bought 2 seasons ago is in fact a Poulan. I never read the tags with my glasses on to see what factory it came from, my Mower guy saw it in my truck the other day and told me, (yelled at me) that that what it is. I demoed the Echo blower that he sold, and did the same with the Jonsered, and I thought the Johny was better. I thought it worked better and deffinately felt better in my hands.* I have carpal tunnel problems so fealing better is important.
> 
> *He's also a Jonsered dealer and at the time didn't stock the blower that I bought. He doesn't like selling them because'' its only an EPA rated 50 hour motor.'' Well I didn't want to tell him that the thing should be dead then cause I've run it through its paces. I use it to dry my motorcycle, and dry the critters that I trap before I skin them. Kinda like an industial strength hair dryer, along with a little landscaping work now and then. My reveiw is an A+ FOR SURE! I've never touched the carb settings, and its run great since new. It starts easy but does take 20 seconds to warm up when cold started.* My only disappointment now will be if I find out that the yellow Poulan model could've been bought for less dough. I think I payed $139 for it new.I got a discount cause it was the dealer demo at that time. May be Poulan is turning the corner on there product. I'm wondering what there string trimmers are like. I'm in the market for a back-up




Hmmm,.. interesting. I am in need of a new blower , had a look at the yellow n black poo model @ TSW last week, seemed like a nice little unit. Especially for a 100$ , but I passed because of the recent junk , I might have to take a closer look. The stihl blower I was looking at was pricey @ $280 here. I want to check the Shindy dealer too.


----------



## Vibes

Applehead said:


> Hmmm,.. interesting. I am in need of a new blower , had a look at the yellow n black poo model @ TSW last week, seemed like a nice little unit. Especially for a 100$ , but I passed because of the recent junk , I might have to take a closer look. The stihl blower I was looking at was pricey @ $280 here. I want to check the Shindy dealer too.



Mines a Jonsered B 2126. Funny I just put that blower in the shed 10 minutes ago. I haven't looked at any of the Poulan units except the Wal Mart model so I don't know if there is a yellow one just like mine. The Wal Mart poulan blower had the recoil burried inside the housing. I'll never buy anything like that again. Everytime the rope or paws break, its a major teardown to get at the recoil. I have 2 of those green Weedeater trimmers that only need a rope, but I just can't make the time to fix them.That should be a 20 minute repair.


----------



## Chris J.

I saw a CL ad for Craftsman blowers, trimmers, & chainsaws for $75.00 each. They're close to me, so I dropped in to see if they had the 50cc Craftsman/Poulan. They had plenty of 42cc & 36cc saws in boxes, but I could only find one empty box for the 50cc model, so I started checking some of the cases spread around the warehouse.

Well, what do you know, I found the saw, a Craftsman 358.35098. It had been used, bar oil had leaked into the case (cap might be leaking?), the chain was on backwards, but it was very clean. I gave it the let-it-drop compression test, and was concerned when there was little resistance. A bell ringing in my brain told me these saws had some type of easy-start system (which is mentioned in this thread), & it might even be written on the recoil cover. The guy working there didn't know if they had any more, said I would need to look around (I had already looked everywhere). He also said all of the Craftsman 2-cycle equip was $55.00, not $75.00.

I took a chance and bought it, a hair under $60.00 total. I haven't had a chance to start it, or have a look at the p&c through the exhaust. The guy said if it doesn't run bring it back, & they're expecting another shipment later in the week. More info & photos to follow.


----------



## yamawho

Hi all, 1st post here.

I purchased one these this weekend but I did not try it out yet.

I do have a few questions ....

The manual states 40:1 mixture ... I am always being told 40:1 is the old way it's 50:1 now. Would't 40:1 be better during break in ?

My saw came with a Oregon chain and has 72 stamped on the links. I guess it's .325 x .050", is this the only chain I can use on this bar?


----------



## Andyshine77

yamawho said:


> Hi all, 1st post here.
> 
> I purchased one these this weekend but I did not try it out yet.
> 
> I do have a few questions ....
> 
> The manual states 40:1 mixture ... I am always being told 40:1 is the old way it's 50:1 now. Would't 40:1 be better during break in ?
> 
> My saw came with a Oregon chain and has 72 stamped on the links. I guess it's .325 x .050", is this the only chain I can use on this bar?



Welcome aboard.

The chain will be 3/8 x .050 

You can run 32:1, 40:1 or 50:1 with a properly tuned carb, but if you're worried about the warranty you probably should run 40:1.


----------



## seneinsun

hierarchical


----------



## yamawho

Andyshine77 said:


> Welcome aboard.
> 
> The chain will be 3/8 x .050
> 
> You can run 32:1, 40:1 or 50:1 with a properly tuned carb, but if you're worried about the warranty you probably should run 40:1.



3/8 x .050 ... do I just count the links and buy a Oregon chain local or should I get a Poulan as a 2nd chain?

BTW, I found this parts list some where ...


----------



## zogger

yamawho said:


> 3/8 x .050 ... do I just count the links and buy a Oregon chain local or should I get a Poulan as a 2nd chain?
> 
> BTW, I found this parts list some where ...



As long as the pitch and gauge and drive link count are the same, you can get any brand you want. Tons of threads here, and opinions, on "what chain" you might want to use. And how to sharpen.

Have fun with your new saw, cut safely and wear your protective gear!


----------



## Chris J.

yamawho said:


> Hi all, 1st post here.
> 
> I purchased one these this weekend but I did not try it out yet.
> 
> I do have a few questions ....
> 
> The manual states 40:1 mixture ... I am always being told 40:1 is the old way it's 50:1 now. Would't 40:1 be better during break in ?
> 
> My saw came with a Oregon chain and has 72 stamped on the links. I guess it's .325 x .050", is this the only chain I can use on this bar?




Welcome to AS! Be sure to post your thought once you've done some cutting with the 5020.


----------



## yamawho

I found this review ...
Review: Poulan Pro PP5020AV 20" Bar 50cc Engine - by Dallas @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

In it he talks about the chain that came with it vs the one he replaced it with ...

This chain is called a “Vanguard” (72LGX070G), chain and while it’s great for things under 16”, it’s almost worthless for aggressive cutting through a 40” log with a 20” bar.

I immediately found a replacement chain, the 72LPX070G which is round chisel chain, and not low kick back.

I went from 3 minutes and change through a log about 36” thick to 1 minute 45 seconds. Or there abouts.

I'm trying to follow along reading this but so far I'm still lost ...
http://www.oregoncuttinggear.com/pdfs/ms_manual.pdf

This one does not refer to Vanguard in the description, am I missing something here?
Oregon 72LGX070G SUPER GUARD® CHISEL CHAIN 3/8"

This is the 2nd one he is referring to.
Oregon 72LPX070G SUPER 70 CHISEL CHAIN 3/8"


----------



## rms61moparman

yamawho said:


> I found this review ...
> Review: Poulan Pro PP5020AV 20" Bar 50cc Engine - by Dallas @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community
> 
> In it he talks about the chain that came with it vs the one he replaced it with ...
> 
> This chain is called a “Vanguard” (72LGX070G), chain and while it’s great for things under 16”, it’s almost worthless for aggressive cutting through a 40” log with a 20” bar.
> 
> I immediately found a replacement chain, the 72LPX070G which is round chisel chain, and not low kick back.
> 
> I went from 3 minutes and change through a log about 36” thick to 1 minute 45 seconds. Or there abouts.
> 
> I'm trying to follow along reading this but so far I'm still lost ...
> http://www.oregoncuttinggear.com/pdfs/ms_manual.pdf
> 
> This one does not refer to Vanguard in the description, am I missing something here?
> Oregon 72LGX070G SUPER GUARD® CHISEL CHAIN 3/8"
> 
> This is the 2nd one he is referring to.
> Oregon 72LPX070G SUPER 70 CHISEL CHAIN 3/8"





Whoever wrote that original review is less than a whole step above a full blown idiot!!!
1) I would sure love to see his 5020 and a 26" bar cut for a day!
2) A new Vanguard chain isn't that slow at all unless you are running the nose radius in the uncut wood (buried with a bar that isn't big enough)
3) I really wonder how many times he sharpened the chain during the original "10 hours" and I also wonder if he has a clue about lowering the rakers...especially on a Vanguard chain.
4) He obviously has NO stinking CLUE what an "OLD POULAN" really is.

I'm just not impressed!


Mike


----------



## Modifiedmark

Mike, please quit holding back and tell us how you really feel! :msp_wink:


----------



## rms61moparman

Modifiedmark said:


> Mike, please quit holding back and tell us how you really feel! :msp_wink:





NO SIR!!!!!

I'm not gonna do it!
I'm trying really hard to be the NEW, kinder, gentler me and I'm not going to revert back to being harsh and stern!


Mike


----------



## Chris J.

Yesterday I went to the place that had the warehouse full of returned Craftsman two-cycle equipment (chainsaws, string trimmers, blowers, etc.), and they didn't have a single piece left.

A couple of days ago I was in a Sears Hardware Store (Sears light ) and they had the Craftsman listed at $259.99, on sale for $199.99. I could swear that a few months ago the regular price was $219.99 :msp_confused:.

I'm glad that I grabbed my Craftsman 358.35098 (PP5020AV) when I did.


----------



## digthediesel

*Pp5020av*

Modifiedmark,

I have enjoyed this thread and all the time and effort you put into reviewing the PP5020AV. I think it's fun to learn from people who are passionate about their hobbies and interests. I have read through all 18 pages of this thread twice and I now know a lot more about chainsaws than I ever thought I would.

I need a chainsaw. Not long ago my Pro Mac 555 died from blunt force trauma in what was really just an accidental mercy killing. It had cut up to 3 cords of firewood a year but it was getting on in years and just wasn't the same as it was in its youth. 

In a perfect world I'd get the Husqvarna 346xp, but cold hard reality puts me in the category of the PP5020AV. After studying the many opinions about it I won't feel like a total loser leaving Lowe's with this $199.00 chainsaw. Even if its emissions durability period is only 50 hours before the engine wears out to a point that it begins to put out too much pollution it will probably suffice for my needs. 8 hours or so of cutting per year will get me 6 years of use and by then I'll probably be totally burned out on firewood cutting (mostly lodgepole pine) anyway!

I appreciate all of the helpful posts and the many years of accumulated knowledge and experience shared in this thread and on this website.

Thanks

PS What the heck is CAD?


----------



## rms61moparman

digthediesel said:


> Modifiedmark,
> 
> I have enjoyed this thread and all the time and effort you put into reviewing the PP5020AV. I think it's fun to learn from people who are passionate about their hobbies and interests. I have read through all 18 pages of this thread twice and I now know a lot more about chainsaws than I ever thought I would.
> 
> I need a chainsaw. Not long ago my Pro Mac 555 died from blunt force trauma in what was really just an accidental mercy killing. It had cut up to 3 cords of firewood a year but it was getting on in years and just wasn't the same as it was in its youth.
> 
> In a perfect world I'd get the Husqvarna 346xp, but cold hard reality puts me in the category of the PP5020AV. After studying the many opinions about it I won't feel like a total loser leaving Lowe's with this $199.00 chainsaw. Even if its emissions durability period is only 50 hours before the engine wears out to a point that it begins to put out too much pollution it will probably suffice for my needs. 8 hours or so of cutting per year will get me 6 years of use and by then I'll probably be totally burned out on firewood cutting (mostly lodgepole pine) anyway!
> 
> I appreciate all of the helpful posts and the many years of accumulated knowledge and experience shared in this thread and on this website.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> PS *What the heck is CAD*?






Chainsaw Acquisition Disease!
It is very real and very powerful!
Starts the minute you find this site and all of the "enablers" that abound here.


You could do a lot worse than the 5020 for your money.
It will be on my short list as soon as I move about 10 other 50cc saws!!!LOL

Mike


----------



## mountainlake

rms61moparman said:


> Whoever wrote that original review is less than a whole step above a full blown idiot!!!
> 1) I would sure love to see his 5020 and a 26" bar cut for a day!
> 2) A new Vanguard chain isn't that slow at all unless you are running the nose radius in the uncut wood (buried with a bar that isn't big enough)
> 3) I really wonder how many times he sharpened the chain during the original "10 hours" and I also wonder if he has a clue about lowering the rakers...especially on a Vanguard chain.
> 4) He obviously has NO stinking CLUE what an "OLD POULAN" really is.
> 
> I'm just not impressed!
> 
> 
> Mike



What really get me is (I can't stop it no matter how hard I push). That chain has to be dull X 10. Steve


----------



## husky46cc

*Perspective from a "Mr. Homeowner"*

Thanks for a very, very good thread, y'all, and I mean everybody who contributed. I'm a Mr. Homeowner, loves chainsaws, have owned Stihl M290, Husqvarna 435, currently Husqvarna 445.
Here's my perspective: There is nothing not to like about a 50cc saw of this quality that can be had for $179. That's just an incredible price. Next, and this is much bigger: A two year Homeowner warranty.

Tommy


----------



## Vibes

yamawho said:


> 3/8 x .050 ... do I just count the links and buy a Oregon chain local or should I get a Poulan as a 2nd chain?
> 
> BTW, I found this parts list some where ...



No you don't count the links. You count the drivers. The drivers are on the bottom of the links. They are hat the sprocket turns the chain with.


----------



## yamawho

Vibes said:


> No you don't count the links. You count the drivers. The drivers are on the bottom of the links. They are hat the sprocket turns the chain with.



Thanks for this :msp_thumbup:

Chainsaw Acquisition Disease!  Good One !

I did start it up this weekend even though I had nothing to cut. It started as advertised by following the instructions on the saw. I was happily revving it until I realized that chain oil was flying everywhere ... I suppose that proves the oilier works.

I used Stihl oil and mixed 40:1 with premium gas.


----------



## rms61moparman

If you are still running the original bar, there is no use to count the drivers.............there are going to be 70 of them.


Mike


----------



## joecool85

yamawho said:


> Thanks for this :msp_thumbup:
> 
> Chainsaw Acquisition Disease!  Good One !
> 
> I did start it up this weekend even though I had nothing to cut. It started as advertised by following the instructions on the saw. I was happily revving it until I realized that chain oil was flying everywhere ... I suppose that proves the oilier works.
> 
> I used Stihl oil and mixed 40:1 with premium gas.



Don't do too much free revving, it's hard on the engine. Quick bursts are fine, but no holding it WOT for long periods without being in wood.


----------



## indiansprings

Great review Mark. Like with any tool it's life depends on how well you take care of it and maintain it. It certainly has its place.
I feel that even though this is an enthusiaist site and members cut more than the average person, in the real world very few cut over 10 cords a year if that much if the truth were known. A saw like this should last Saw Troll a lifetime of use:msp_tongue:
It should provide causal owners/homeowner's a good alternative to pro saws.


----------



## Chris J.

indiansprings said:


> Great review Mark. Like with any tool it's life depends on how well you take care of it and maintain it. It certainly has its place.
> I feel that even though this is an enthusiaist site and members cut more than the average person, in the real world very few cut over 10 cords a year if that much if the truth were known. *A saw like this should last Saw Troll a lifetime of use:msp_tongue:*
> It should provide causal owners/homeowner's a good alternative to pro saws.



Yes, definately, which is why Niko should trade me straight up his Jonsered 2153 for my 
Craftsman/Poulan 5020 :msp_w00t:. But I won't hold my breath, lol.


----------



## rms61moparman

indiansprings said:


> Great review Mark. Like with any tool it's life depends on how well you take care of it and maintain it. It certainly has its place.
> I feel that even though this is an enthusiaist site and members cut more than the average person, *in the real world very few cut over 10 cords a year if that much if the truth were known*. A saw like this should last Saw Troll a lifetime of use:msp_tongue:
> It should provide causal owners/homeowner's a good alternative to pro saws.





I'll bet that it is MUCH lower than that!
I'd be surprised if the "AVERAGE" is over an hour (of saw run time) per year.

For every one of us who usually cut 15-20 cords per year there are hundreds of homeowners who have a brand new 10 year old saw in their garage that has never been started.



Mike


----------



## Modifiedmark

indiansprings said:


> Great review Mark. Like with any tool it's life depends on how well you take care of it and maintain it. It certainly has its place.
> I feel that even though this is an enthusiaist site and members cut more than the average person, in the real world very few cut over 10 cords a year if that much if the truth were known. A saw like this should last Saw Troll a lifetime of use:msp_tongue:
> It should provide causal owners/homeowner's a good alternative to pro saws.



Thanks for the kudos, glad to see you (and lots of others) understand the point of it! I'm thinking more and more that the price point on this makes it a best buy for lots of folks. 

It probably wont hurt your feelings that as far as I know it is built in the USA. Shame there foreign owned now though...


----------



## yamawho

Modifiedmark said:


> It probably wont hurt your feelings that as far as I know it is built in the USA. Shame there foreign owned now though...



It's the way of the world these days ...

I work for a German company that started back in 1819 and for the first time in it's history a US company owns over 90% of the shares. Basically we are how american owned.

BTW great job on this thread.


----------



## Chris-PA

rms61moparman said:


> I'll bet that it is MUCH lower than that!
> I'd be surprised if the "AVERAGE" is over an hour (of saw run time) per year.
> 
> For every one of us who usually cut 15-20 cords per year there are hundreds of homeowners who have a brand new 10 year old saw in their garage that has never been started.
> 
> 
> 
> Mike


This is exactly why I run the saws I do - I'm probably not 10 cords a year, plus lots of trimming/brush/cleanup. These saws will last me indefinitely. And I bet I cut more than many AS members with pro saws.


----------



## joecool85

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> This is exactly why I run the saws I do - I'm probably not 10 cords a year, plus lots of trimming/brush/cleanup. These saws will last me indefinitely. And I bet I cut more than many AS members with pro saws.



I cut about 4 cords a year plus some random trimming on my property and at my folk's place.


----------



## digthediesel

*Good enough for who it's for.*

I bought the PP5020AV from Lowe’s on September 3rd and filled the tank with the 40:1 premix. By following the instructions it started on the 6th or 7th pull. I wasn’t sure how well it would run because we are at about 3900’ elevation here. I let it idle for a few minutes to get it good and warm before slowly increasing engine speed a little. 

3 little ponderosas had been thriving on the septic drain field out back and they were to be the first victims of this dangerous homeowner with a saw. They were really pretty trees and I hated to see them go, but a functioning septic system is definitely a priority. I cut off the branches and cut up enough firewood for maybe two winter days of heat. It was sort of like catching and eating a trout that is barely legal size.

The saw burned through the first tank of fuel very quickly just cutting those 3 little trees. 
Surprisingly the saw idles well, just a little fast at times when the chain just kind of creeps along, starting and stopping slowly on its own. I really have babied the saw and only used short bursts of wide open throttle to cut through those little trees. 

I bought a cord of western juniper rounds a couple days ago. So far the biggest test of the saw was cutting through a 12” juniper round. Whoa, that was slow. That is pretty hard wood for softwood. The growth rings are so close together. They are high desert trees. I won’t be cutting any more juniper. 

With the second tank of gas I cut the juniper and a few more little pines and some brush. This time the saw used noticeably less gas. Might be that the engine had broken in a little.

No worries about the chain getting enough bar oil. It really flows, and as some others have noticed it pretty much does all leak out overnight. I tried venting the pressure that builds up in the bar oil tank, as some have suggested. That didn’t stop the leakage. 

I had good luck starting the saw while warm. Pulling the choke all the way out and then pushing it all the way back in sets the idle to high and one pull and it is off and running again. By squeezing the throttle the idle returns to normal. When trying to start it while warm without the fast idle setting I would pull and pull with no effect, even if I had just shut it off.

With the woods closed to firewood cutting due to level 3 conditions it could be a while before I can test the saw on some normal sized pine trees. 

A buddy just got the MS 250 and side by side of course his looks better. I know his will cut better (we didn’t race) with the .325 chain, shorter bar and all. His saw also has the sticker that says Emissions Durability Period 50 Hours, same as my PP5020AV. Interesting.


----------



## zogger

digthediesel said:


> I bought the PP5020AV from Lowe’s on September 3rd and filled the tank with the 40:1 premix. By following the instructions it started on the 6th or 7th pull. I wasn’t sure how well it would run because we are at about 3900’ elevation here. I let it idle for a few minutes to get it good and warm before slowly increasing engine speed a little.
> 
> 3 little ponderosas had been thriving on the septic drain field out back and they were to be the first victims of this dangerous homeowner with a saw. They were really pretty trees and I hated to see them go, but a functioning septic system is definitely a priority. I cut off the branches and cut up enough firewood for maybe two winter days of heat. It was sort of like catching and eating a trout that is barely legal size.
> 
> The saw burned through the first tank of fuel very quickly just cutting those 3 little trees.
> Surprisingly the saw idles well, just a little fast at times when the chain just kind of creeps along, starting and stopping slowly on its own. I really have babied the saw and only used short bursts of wide open throttle to cut through those little trees.
> 
> I bought a cord of western juniper rounds a couple days ago. So far the biggest test of the saw was cutting through a 12” juniper round. Whoa, that was slow. That is pretty hard wood for softwood. The growth rings are so close together. They are high desert trees. I won’t be cutting any more juniper.
> 
> With the second tank of gas I cut the juniper and a few more little pines and some brush. This time the saw used noticeably less gas. Might be that the engine had broken in a little.
> 
> No worries about the chain getting enough bar oil. It really flows, and as some others have noticed it pretty much does all leak out overnight. I tried venting the pressure that builds up in the bar oil tank, as some have suggested. That didn’t stop the leakage.
> 
> I had good luck starting the saw while warm. Pulling the choke all the way out and then pushing it all the way back in sets the idle to high and one pull and it is off and running again. By squeezing the throttle the idle returns to normal. When trying to start it while warm without the fast idle setting I would pull and pull with no effect, even if I had just shut it off.
> 
> With the woods closed to firewood cutting due to level 3 conditions it could be a while before I can test the saw on some normal sized pine trees.
> 
> A buddy just got the MS 250 and side by side of course his looks better. I know his will cut better (we didn’t race) with the .325 chain, shorter bar and all. His saw also has the sticker that says Emissions Durability Period 50 Hours, same as my PP5020AV. Interesting.



Try a pro chain, keep the one that came with it as a spare.

Of course if you are feeling nuts, you could send it to one of the pro porters here.


----------



## digthediesel

zogger said:


> Try a pro chain, keep the one that came with it as a spare.
> 
> Of course if you are feeling nuts, you could send it to one of the pro porters here.



Yeah, that's it. Have it ported and carry a tank of nitrous in my backpack with a hose going directly into the carburetor. Oh, not to forget a 32" bar and chain. The ER doctors would be picking pieces of flywheel out of my body.

I think I will get a better chain though and keep the original for a spare like you said. It would be really interesting to see what porting would do to it. 

I'd better get a few cords of wood put away before sending it off to the pros.

Doug


----------



## zogger

digthediesel said:


> Yeah, that's it. Have it ported and carry a tank of nitrous in my backpack with a hose going directly into the carburetor. Oh, not to forget a 32" bar and chain. The ER doctors would be picking pieces of flywheel out of my body.
> 
> I think I will get a better chain though and keep the original for a spare like you said. It would be really interesting to see what porting would do to it.
> 
> I'd better get a few cords of wood put away before sending it off to the pros.
> 
> Doug



I don't think anyone has done one of those yet. Don't recall any threads on it so far.


----------



## Chris J.

zogger said:


> I don't think anyone has done one of those yet. Don't recall any threads on it so far.



Someone here was considerring modding a 5020 when life got pretty complicated. I bumped his thread once, but have since let it be out of respect for his situation.


----------



## yamawho

I couldn't find the manual online a few weeks ago but today I did 

Here ...
http://www.poulanpro.com/ddoc/PPOO/PPOO2012_NAen/PPOO2012_NAen_PP5020AV_115395626R5.pdf

I took the saw to a Husky/Stihl dealer near my cottage and inquired about getting a shorter bar and chain for this saw. Before taking it out of the car, I told him I believed this saw was with Husqvarna parts and he did not think so. I gave him the part number off the original 20" bar and asked for a Oregon bar at 16" long. He looked at the number 545196102 and said that's a Husqvarna number ... I noticed the manual shows a different number 577179801 maybe this is for the US market.

He took it in the back and fitted it with a Husqvarna 16" bar 508913160 and 73LPX060e chain. Chain info here ... http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/chain/fb_LPX.pdf 

Did some cutting yesterday with the stock bar and chain and more cutting today with the new setup in maple logs lengthwise to stick a wedge in to split them. Noticed the cutting is rougher than stock setup but cuts faster. This present setup is more prone to kickback however ...


----------



## joecool85

yamawho said:


> Did some cutting yesterday with the stock bar and chain and more cutting today with the new setup in maple logs lengthwise to stick a wedge in to split them. Noticed the cutting is rougher than stock setup but cuts faster. This present setup is more prone to kickback however ...



I run a 16" Husqvarna bar on my PP330. Love it.


----------



## Vibes

A buddy just got the MS 250 and side by side of course his looks better. I know his will cut better (we didn’t race) with the .325 chain, shorter bar and all. His saw also has the sticker that says Emissions Durability Period 50 Hours, same as my PP5020AV. Interesting. 


I would like to see that race. MS 250'S never impressed me. My freind has one and he thought it was the shizznits. Until he ran my 20 year old Craftsman 3.0/ Poulan 3000. Both stock, his with a 16 and new chain, mine with an 18. Both .325. Wanna guess which one won in a 14 inch cherry log by better than 3 seconds.


----------



## yamawho

Vibes said:


> A buddy just got the MS 250 and side by side of course his looks better. I know his will cut better (we didn’t race) with the .325 chain, shorter bar and all. His saw also has the sticker that says Emissions Durability Period 50 Hours, same as my PP5020AV. Interesting.



Interesting that they one I purchased here in Canada does not have such a sticker ...

Also interesting that the bar is not the same as the US model according to the manual, what model number is stamped on yours?


----------



## Chris-PA

Vibes said:


> A buddy just got the MS 250 and side by side of course his looks better. I know his will cut better (we didn’t race) with the .325 chain, shorter bar and all. His saw also has the sticker that says Emissions Durability Period 50 Hours, same as my PP5020AV. Interesting.
> 
> 
> I would like to see that race. MS 250'S never impressed me. My freind has one and he thought it was the shizznits. Until he ran my 20 year old Craftsman 3.0/ Poulan 3000. Both stock, his with a 16 and new chain, mine with an 18. Both .325. Wanna guess which one won in a 14 inch cherry log by better than 3 seconds.


No reason an MS250 should impress you - it's a 45cc plastic saw. Compared to my 42cc Craftsman/Poulan I saw or felt very little difference. It's got an inboard clutch and a little square piece of plastic to allow warm air into the air box. Big deal. Both had 18" bars, but my Craftsman runs LoPro so it has to move less wood. 

Compared to a newer 42cc Poulan (which now has an inboard clutch) it lacks a strato engine and an adjustable carb. With a muffler mod my 46cc Poulan would blow it away, but I suppose that was unfair because the MS250 had a stock muffler. A 5020 is far more saw than an MS250 for much less money.

I don't understand how people can constantly trash a plastic saw from Poulan on one hand, but when Stihl makes a saw of basically identical construction, materials, performance and quality they somehow expect it to be special.


----------



## Vibes

I don't understand how people can constantly trash a plastic saw from Poulan on one hand, but when Stihl makes a saw of basically identical construction, materials, performance and quality they somehow expect it to be special. 


Expect it to be special, and pay crazy money for them also. 

Another thing that I never get about the plastic Stihls is why do you have to go through several procedures to do basic maintenance on those things. I'm selling a parts 025 on Ebay right now and wanted to take a picture of it with my compression tester plugged into it. To pull the top cover off of it was a 3 or 4 step process. I didn't bother figuring the extra time spent on it would only result in a few dollars in my pocket. They always bring crazy money on the bay and in that reguard Stihls have been good to me.


----------



## Fedaburger

Plastics aside Im impressed with poulan saws. It's been said.before most of the complaints are from people that have no idea how to even use a powersaw let alone tune the carb on one. On the china saw thread someone said some good points on poulan. Most who don't even know anything about saws have an anti-poulan attitude. Hopefully the brand is gonna make a comeback. Glad to see these 2050 saws get some good reviews. 
A lot of good reviews on poulan saws with husky names are out there and in he same reviews they'll trash talk on poulan. If they only knew they'd Probly have a different view on poulan. 

Made in the USA

God bless the USA

Yes I know the 5020 is husky


----------



## Chris J.

Fedaburger said:


> Plastics aside Im impressed with poulan saws. It's been said.before most of the complaints are from people that have no idea how to even use a powersaw let alone tune the carb on one. On the china saw thread someone said some good points on poulan. Most who don't even know anything about saws have an anti-poulan attitude. Hopefully the brand is gonna make a comeback. Glad to see these 2050 saws get some good reviews.
> A lot of good reviews on poulan saws with husky names are out there and in he same reviews they'll trash talk on poulan. If they only knew they'd Probly have a different view on poulan.
> 
> Made in the USA
> 
> God bless the USA
> 
> Yes I know the 5020 is husky




I'm sure that you meant the 5020, since the 2050 is a completely different saw.

Without the benefit of re-reading this entire thread and the other 5020 threads, I don't think that the 5020 has a Husqvarna equivalent model. That said, I wouldn't be surprised if it has some parts made in Sweden.


----------



## SawTroll

Chris J. said:


> I'm sure that you meant the 5020, since the 2050 is a completely different saw.
> 
> Without the benefit of re-reading this entire thread and the other 5020 threads, I don't think that the 5020 has a Husqvarna equivalent model. That said, I wouldn't be surprised if it has some parts made in Sweden.



Right, and among the Husky owned brands, Made in USA = Made by Poulan!


----------



## SawTroll

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> Yeah, a perfectly functional saw for the homeowner or firewood cutter at a reasonable price. An alternative to overpriced European saws.



No quality chainsaws are overpriced in the US, as the prices are silly low.....


----------



## Chris-PA

SawTroll said:


> No quality chainsaws are overpriced in the US, as the prices are silly low.....


Well, you know I look at it differently, in terms of what the tool can do for what you pay. I have found that for what I need to do with it, something like this Poulan is perfectly appropriate. And I would get one, except that I can get used saws even cheaper. 

Keep in mind that what these saws cost has little to no relationship to what it costs to make them, it's based on what they can get you to pay. The fact that within a family of saws the larger displacement versions cost more is a perfect illustration - it cannot cost but a tiny amount more to make them. Yet people are convinced that if they pay more they are getting more in proportion. 

The marketing and advertising wizards have everyone under their spell, but this spell will be broken as the availability of credit dries up. Then the cost of everything will go up relative to what people can afford to pay, and people will be much more focused on needs, rather than wants. So you shall have your higher costs, but Stihl and Husqvarna may not survive it.....

It may yet come to pass that Poulan is spun off again.


----------



## hangfirew8

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> It may yet come to pass that Poulan is spun off again.



Or it becomes the salvation of its more expensive owner... they need the high volume sales income... and they start moving more and more of their brand saws to Poulan manufacture!

Oh wait... that's already happening! 

HF


----------



## SasquatchMan

Just bought one of these on sale at Canadian Tire. 

Pulled it out of the box, loaded it with gas mix and bar lube, fired it up, and cut up 1,000 square feet of deck, all 2x10 construction, and built over and around an old deck built of 2x4s. Just a big stupid mess of wood and nails. 

3 tanks of gas (and 3 tanks of lube - this thing pours bar lube), a few chain adjustments, and 2 hours later the job was done and yes, the chain was pretty well wrecked. I spent a couple hours filing later that night, but nails and dirt is bad for chains, it turns out. 

I needed a saw that day. My old 290 finally died, and I had a huge deck to cut up. Decided to buy a "disposable" saw for these purposes, and I couldn't be happier. 

Got a Stihl 271 for cutting wood, and will use the 5020av for chopping up dirty crap and beating the hell out of. The reduced-kick chain is perfect for this, and the overdriven oiler is great too. For me? Perfect contractor tool. 

The Stihl cuts faster, runs smoother, starts easier. Comes with better cutting chain, uses less fuel, less lube, produces far less stinky exhaust. It's way nicer. A Range-Rover vs a Jeep. 

But for $229.00, basically half of what I paid for the Stihl, I'm totally happy with the Poulan. If it lasts one year of chopping up decks, cutting down garages, stumping, and whatever else I decide it's the right tool for, I'll buy another next September and call it a good unit. 

It seems a far cry from all the other Poulans at the store.


----------



## joecool85

SasquatchMan said:


> The Stihl cuts faster, runs smoother, starts easier. Comes with better cutting chain, uses less fuel, less lube, produces far less stinky exhaust. It's way nicer. A Range-Rover vs a Jeep.



Does the Poulan really use more fuel than your 271 and it's a lot more stinky? That's too bad. I've not run either saw though.


----------



## SasquatchMan

Yeah I think it's using more fuel, but it's hard to tell for sure - different chains cutting different material. And the Stihl runs cleaner (for now), without a doubt.


----------



## Chris J.

SasquatchMan said:


> Yeah I think it's using more fuel, but it's hard to tell for sure - different chains cutting different material. And the Stihl runs cleaner (for now), without a doubt.



It's my understanding that strato engines need quite a few tanks for proper break-in; how that will affect the 5020 fuel economy I'm not sure.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

SasquatchMan said:


> Just bought one of these on sale at Canadian Tire.
> 
> I bought a Stihl MS271 at the same time for cutting firewood only. This saw comes with a Stihl RS chain on it, and the cutting is just effortless. This saw cost about double the Poulan, about 500 bucks. What do you get? More power for sure, and the saw is happy at 13,000 rpms or wherever it runs at, just smooth as silk. * Think the Poulan is running about 9,000. *



I read where you said the poulan was 9000 rpm out of the box and untouched carb. 

Sounds to me she is way rich and needs a carb tuning. Could be why she is smelly and stinking with fumes.


----------



## SasquatchMan

Agreed, and the tool is in the mail.


----------



## yamawho

SasquatchMan said:


> Agreed, and the tool is in the mail.



Where did you order the carb adjust tool from?

My 5020 runs pretty good ... not much smoke or smell, running fuel 40:1.


----------



## SasquatchMan

eBay

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/360489858016?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Just type in Poulan splined tool and they pop up in the search, or carb tool.


Ran the saw all afternoon again today, cut up a bunch more garbage, and I must say, it ran very well once it warmed up. I'm certain it's running rich as hell. Once in awhile it just dies if I let off the throttle after a tough cut. Fires up again, but it's like it just isn't seeing the quite the right mixture. Montreal is pretty close to sea level - I'm up in the plains/foothills of Alberta, so the air is significantly thinner up here. 

Ordered a Carlton full chisel chain for it too, so once that shows up, I'll do a side by side with the MS271 and see which saw has more oomph.


----------



## Bingo

*5020*

Wow...21 pages and probably still going!...A long, interesting and occasionally divergent thread!...Love to see guys chime in w/their opinions on what kind of saw they can actually use...One that works for them...Somehing geared for the homeowner/occasional wood cutter, regardless of brand...Really a good thread where people comment on their real saw uses. I have an old MM'd MS 310 (20", 3/8), that cuts what I need for firewood but would love a second, smaller saw, just to have and use for things other than serious bigger stuff. Ok, it's not the 35-40cc saw I thought I'd like to have but w/the right bar/chain and for the money it'd do eh?... So for the money I'm looking at a usable saw, maybe w/a 16" bar and 3/8" chain that would do smaller stuff/trim and just be a nice saw to use knowing that it's not supposed to be a monster in hiding. And for the money, and set up right, the 5020 might get me a nice second saw. Doesn't seem like it needs much in the way of modding except maybe opening up the exhaust exit and playing w/the carb H/L/I screws...maybe not much at all. Might be somewhat of a sleeper for occasional use. And, geez, the price for a new saw is pretty good. Yes, CAD is part of this too...But it would fit a need.


----------



## mountainlake

The 5020 wieghs too much for a trim saw, get a Echo CS400 or Dolmar 420 or a small Efco Steve


----------



## yamawho

I started off with a Stihl MS 170 for trimming and the 5020 is my bigger saw.
Since my cottage is in a remote location, I haul the 170 around in the car or truck in case a tree is blocking the road.


----------



## Fedaburger

I believe Im gonna get me one of the 5020 poulans. I haven't seen any smoked the 5020 yesterday threads. It doesnt seem as though they are adjusted for self distruction from the factory. They need to put the flathead screw jets back in the carbs. A chainsaw shop told me they'd get a fine if they gave me an adjusting tool.


----------



## importjunk

Fedaburger said:


> I believe Im gonna get me one of the 5020 poulans. I haven't seen any smoked the 5020 yesterday threads. It doesnt seem as though they are adjusted for self distruction from the factory. They need to put the flathead screw jets back in the carbs. A chainsaw shop told me they'd get a fine if they gave me an adjusting tool.



Find another saw shop.


----------



## spike60

rms61moparman said:


> I'll bet that it is MUCH lower than that!
> I'd be surprised if the "AVERAGE" is over an hour (of saw run time) per year.
> 
> For every one of us who usually cut 15-20 cords per year there are hundreds of homeowners who have a brand new 10 year old saw in their garage that has never been started.
> 
> 
> 
> Mike



And some of those hardly used/sitting in the garage saws turn out to be very interesting models for guys like us.


----------



## Chris J.

Fedaburger said:


> ... They need to put the flathead screw jets back in the carbs. A chainsaw shop told me they'd get a fine if they gave me an adjusting tool.





importjunk said:


> Find another saw shop.



The saw shop wasn't lying to you. I was told the same the thing at a shop, & the mechtech directed me to a nearby tool shop that sold the spline tool ($9.99 + tax, about $10.80 total). Somewhere here on AS there is a link to the memo sent out by Husqvarna mentioning a fine for selling the spline tool to the public.

Oh, OK, I found it:

http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HBUS/HBUS2010/HBUS2010_530035560.pdf


----------



## rms61moparman

Chris J. said:


> The saw shop wasn't lying to you. I was told the same the thing at a shop, & the mechtech directed me to a nearby tool shop that sold the spline tool ($9.99 + tax, about $10.80 total). Somewhere here on AS there is a link to the memo sent out by Husqvarna mentioning a fine for selling the spline tool to the public.
> 
> Oh, OK, I found it:
> 
> http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HBUS/HBUS2010/HBUS2010_530035560.pdf






According to that memo, I have about $15,000.00 worth of those tools and the E.P.A. can kiss my a................................foot!!!!!!
I won't be paying a dime in fines in this lifetime!!!
When I buy a tool, I buy the right to work on it as necessary and keep it running the way I want it.
That is NON-NEGOTIABLE!!!!!


Mike


----------



## joe25DA

rms61moparman said:


> According to that memo, I have about $15,000.00 worth of those tools and the E.P.A. can kiss my a................................foot!!!!!!
> I won't be paying a dime in fines in this lifetime!!!
> When I buy a tool, I buy the right to work on it as necessary and keep it running the way I want it.
> That is NON-NEGOTIABLE!!!!!
> 
> 
> Mike



10 years ago Id have thought a person crazy to tell me that. Not today tho!


----------



## Bingo

*"Defeat tool"*

I really like how they give us the right part number!...They're geniuses I tell ya...genisuses!


----------



## Modifiedmark

I'll tell ya, this is going along about the way I thought it would end up going. 

Lots of you guys are WAY over analyzing this poor little saw. It uses too much fuel, :hmm3grin2orange: That one really cracked me up. I got alot of time on that one I had hear and I didnt think it was ever going to run out. 

Its too heavy to be a trim saw, aint got enough ass to run a 20" bar fast enough, needs a muffler mod and on and on. 

Like I said from the beginning, this saw wasnt made with most of us in mind, but for the casual user, homeowner etc. 

As I said I sold the one that I had to a coworker and he tells me he loves it. He takes it to his cabin to cut blowdowns, campfire wood etc. Says he actually used it quite a bit, and has been dead reliable. Another fella I know bought one for a firewood saw and he has been happy with it as well. Like the one I had, his seemed to be tuned pretty well straight out of the box. 

The more I hear of these and after running the one I had, I still belive for there intended market, there a tough one to beat and even if they cost $50-$100 more.


----------



## SasquatchMan

Absolutely agree. My fuel comment (if it's mine you are referring too) was just a comment in comparison to the Stihl 271 it's cutting right beside. And further to it, I'll say that the 290 I ran for years was far, far harder on gas than the PP5020 and only a few cc bigger. 

I'm super happy with the saw, I am the intended market I suppose - a homeowner who cuts a few cords or a contractor who wants a saw to beat the #### out of. I'm both. 

Out of the box, the MS271 (another saw everyone hates, LOL) is nicer. But it's probably not quite TWICE as nice for the price, ya know. I really probably could have done with buying two of the 5020. 

To me, the test is how this thing runs next year, or the year after. If it makes it through a summer of abuse, I'm a happy guy. Not looking to mod it, not looking for it to do anything but run when I pull the string and cut up the stuff I need it to cut up. 

So far, this is a VERY GOOD 200 dollar chainsaw. When I get the carb tool and a full chisel chain, I'll see if I can do a head-to-head with the 271, and we'll see if I feel ripped off by the Stihl at that point! 

Truly, this Poulan seems worth every penny, and anyone thinking "Maybe that's a good option for me" as a camping/hunting/firewood/construction tool with occassional use in mind.... I'd say buy it.


----------



## Modifiedmark

SasquatchMan said:


> A contractor who wants a saw to beat the #### out of.



I'm pretty sure that is not one of its intended purposes. 

That said I dont see where it will hold up any worse then any other $200 saw, but it still will have to have some min care at least and cant be left stored with old ethanol fuel left in it.


----------



## spike60

Modifiedmark said:


> I'll tell ya, this is going along about the way I thought it would end up going.
> 
> Lots of you guys are WAY over analyzing this poor little saw. It uses too much fuel, :hmm3grin2orange: That one really cracked me up. I got alot of time on that one I had hear and I didnt think it was ever going to run out.
> 
> Its too heavy to be a trim saw, aint got enough ass to run a 20" bar fast enough, needs a muffler mod and on and on.
> 
> Like I said from the beginning, this saw wasnt made with most of us in mind, but for the casual user, homeowner etc.
> 
> As I said I sold the one that I had to a coworker and he tells me he loves it. He takes it to his cabin to cut blowdowns, campfire wood etc. Says he actually used it quite a bit, and has been dead reliable. Another fella I know bought one for a firewood saw and he has been happy with it as well. Like the one I had, his seemed to be tuned pretty well straight out of the box.
> 
> The more I hear of these and after running the one I had, I still belive for there intended market, there a tough one to beat and even if they cost $50-$100 more.



Well, it's no surprise that a saw like that would get nitpicked on a site like this. :msp_wink:

"But what new saw at that price?"..................which was the whole point of this thread to begin with, is a legitimate question. I've been following this discussion a little bit, because I can get these through Husky and sell them for the same $199. The closest real Husky that would do a similar amount of work, or suffice as a firewood saw would be the 445, and that's another $100. So there may be a place for it. 

Also, a guy came in with one last week looking to buy a chain. The saw looked like it had been getting plenty of use, and I asked him what he thought of it. Told me he bought it in a pinch last year after Hurricane Irene, and that he thought it was a "pretty decent saw. Hasn't given me any problems." 

Admitedly, most of us on here aren't going to want one, but like Mark says, it wasn't designed with guys like us in mind. The reason Husky offers them to us dealers, and also why they are putting money into developing the McCulloch brand, (mostly L&G stuff), is because there are plenty of entry level buyers who can't afford 562XPs and such. 

There's another reason, that wasn't mentioned at any meetings or whatever, but I'm kind of deducing myself. I think we're going to be seeing more and more Chinese sourced saws with "brand of the month" names on them at some of the big retailers. Some of this stuff is already out there like those joke 35cc Homelites and Powerhorse, or Earthquake saws. I think you'll see something at Walmart this year. Husky has pretty much owned this business over the years with the Poulan brand, but the landscape is changing out there. If stores like Walmart can make more money selling a $129 chinese saw, then they are going to do it. And they absolutely don't care if there's a parts and service network out there or not. 

So, Husky is now looking at the dealer base a little more regarding these price points. I'm still not sure how far Id get involved, if at all with the Poulan stuff. But the option is there if I want it.


----------



## mountainlake

I'll stand by my too heavy for a trim saw, A Echo CS400 can be bought off Ebay for just over $200 and wieghs 13# ready to cut vs I'd guess about 17# ready to cut for the 5020. But I use mine quite a bit and am 60 now so wieght means a lot. Steve


----------



## yamawho

Before buying mine at Canadian Tire I went to a Husky dealer who also sells Poulan.

While I was looking at the saws he came over and said you want to buy a Poulan buy a Poulan Pro. I asked him about the 5020 and he never heard of it ...

This model seems very new in Canada.


----------



## Modifiedmark

mountainlake said:


> I'll stand by my too heavy for a trim saw, A Echo CS400 can be bought off Ebay for just over $200 and wieghs 13# ready to cut vs I'd guess about 17# ready to cut for the 5020. But I use mine quite a bit and am 60 now so wieght means a lot. Steve



Steve I agree, but my saying what I did was more pointing out how silly it was that you even had to point that fact out.

As to the Echo, how will that model work out with a 20 inch bar with a full 3/8 chain on it ? What kind of warranty are you going to get with that Ebay Echo ?

Whenever a saw like the 5020 comes along and especially at a price point like this you have to look at the big picture and I just feel that there are some folks around here that are not doing that.


----------



## mountainlake

Why I put that silly reply was seems like someone had a MS310 and was going to buy the 5020 for trim saw, not saving much wieght in that case. I don't know if those Ebay saws have a warrenty or not and don't care. Tuned right about a 99% chance it won't be needed and most companys will blame it on bad gas or straigt gasses . Steve


----------



## Modifiedmark

mountainlake said:


> Why I put that silly reply was seems like someone had a MS310 and was going to buy the 5020 for trim saw, not saving much wieght in that case. I don't know if those Ebay saws have a warrenty or not and don't care. Tuned right about a 99% chance it won't be needed and most companys will blame it on bad gas or straigt gasses . Steve



Well, now your one of the that's not looking at the big picture.

That Ebay Echo will not have any use to a Joe Shmoe homeowner who needs a saw right away. He won't wait to look for a deal on Ebay, then wait a week to get it either. He needs to get that tree off his shed today. He also don't know how to tune that little Echo properly, and that 2 year warranty is a big selling point to him as well is the 20" bar.

I got nothing at all against Echo's I just haven't seen any lately that are 50cc, 20" that come with a 2 year warranty for less then $200 that can be purchased in a hurry ready to run as is.


----------



## mountainlake

The 5020 is a fine saw for Joe Shmoe who only has 1 saw but it is not a trim saw for someone who already owns a MS310, what is it maybe 1# lighter?. Youl'll notice I never said anything bad about the 5020 except it's heavy for a trim saw. Steve


----------



## brokenbudget

yamawho said:


> Before buying mine at Canadian Tire I went to a Husky dealer who also sells Poulan.
> 
> While I was looking at the saws he came over and said you want to buy a Poulan buy a Poulan Pro. I asked him about the 5020 and he never heard of it ...
> 
> This model seems very new in Canada.



it's been here for a while now. your dealer needs to talk to the rep looking after him and ask why he wasnt told about it. if it's the same "rep" looking after the couple of shops here, near where i live, i totaly understand his not knowing about it
talked to that guy once. very full of himself


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

brokenbudget said:


> very full of himself



Lot of those types around for sure, especially on the internet and phone call conversions I've been in. :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## indiansprings

I agree with Mark, there are multitudes of folks that this is all the saw they need. No matter what the brand they are only good as they are maintained. I know several people who would be well served with a saw like this rather than go spend a crap pot full of money on a Husky or Stihl saw. It's all a vast majority of folks need, cutting four or five cord a year, trimming a few trees up, there is also the market out there who can't go out and afford to spend 500-800.00 on a saw and this will serve there families needs with proper maint.
I would ten times rather have it than a Earthquake, Powerhouse or other chinese import. At least it is made in the USA.


----------



## rms61moparman

indiansprings said:


> I agree with Mark, there are multitudes of folks that this is all the saw they need. No matter what the brand they are only good as they are maintained. I know several people who would be well served with a saw like this rather than go spend a crap pot full of money on a Husky or Stihl saw. *It's all a vast majority of folks need, cutting four or five cord a year, trimming a few trees up, there is also the market out there who can't go out and afford to spend 500-800.00 on a saw and this will serve there families needs with proper maint.*
> I would ten times rather have it than a Earthquake, Powerhouse or other chinese import. At least it is made in the USA.





And let's not forget the stupidity of having a $600.00 saw sitting on a shelf collecting dust when a $200.00 saw will do the same job and the other $400.00 could be working FOR you!!!
(And YES I'm at the top of that group!!!)

Mike


----------



## spike60

indiansprings said:


> I agree with Mark, there are multitudes of folks that this is all the saw they need. No matter what the brand they are only good as they are maintained. I know several people who would be well served with a saw like this rather than go spend a crap pot full of money on a Husky or Stihl saw. It's all a vast majority of folks need, cutting four or five cord a year, trimming a few trees up, there is also the market out there who can't go out and afford to spend 500-800.00 on a saw and this will serve there families needs with proper maint.
> I would ten times rather have it than a Earthquake, Powerhouse or other chinese import. At least it is made in the USA.



And I agree with both of you. And I'd also bet there are multitudes of folks here who are looking down their noses at a saw that's not too different from what they themselves used years ago. How many people start out with 562's and 441's? 

If this Poulan was the only saw someone had, and it filled the pickup truck with firewood, there really wouldn't be much to complain about.


----------



## DeckSetter

For anyone that still somehow doesn't see the bargain in this saw, they are commonly found new for $200. There is one right now on ebay for $189 new with case with $10 shipping. So $200 shipped to your door for a 50cc saw.

The only new Poulan Wild Things (better known as Mild Thing) on ebay are $167 shipped without a case or $212 with a case. That's a 40cc saw.


Save $13, get a 10cc bigger chainsaw.


----------



## brokenbudget

DeckSetter said:


> For anyone that still somehow doesn't see the bargain in this saw, they are commonly found new for $200. There is one right now on ebay for $189 new with case with $10 shipping. So $200 shipped to your door for a 50cc saw.
> 
> Save $13, get a 10cc bigger chainsaw.




up here,
you can walk into any canadian tire, tsc store, lowes, home hardware or castle and buy them for $229+tax. no need to wait on it. and no headace's dealing with ebay. after shipping costs, it's cheaper to buy local.


----------



## importjunk

brokenbudget said:


> up here,
> you can walk into any canadian tire, tsc store, lowes, home hardware or castle and buy them for $229+tax. no need to wait on it. and no headace's dealing with ebay. after shipping costs, it's cheaper to buy local.



Sears had them on sale yesterday for $189.00 with free shipping. Haven't checked today.


----------



## Modifiedmark

I'm not sure whats going on with the videos that I had embeded as there not showing now but I see the direct links still work. 

Worth seeing again is the saw with a little larger muffler outlet under the stock deflector and with a good chain and 16" bar. 

Once again I will remind that this is some hard wood, not pine or such. Cbfarmall will vouch as he took the video if I remember right. 

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/3377/8wm.mp4


----------



## yamawho

importjunk said:


> Sears had them on sale yesterday for $189.00 with free shipping. Haven't checked today.



In Canada no such luck ...
These 3 are all that are available at Sears Canada.






These are the Poulan Pro's available at Canadian Tire.


----------



## importjunk

yamawho said:


> In Canada no such luck ...
> These 3 are all that are available at Sears Canada.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are the Poulan Pro's available at Canadian Tire.



Beautiful country, but cost of living is certainly a drawback.


----------



## zogger

importjunk said:


> Beautiful country, but cost of living is certainly a drawback.



Seems like it. Wonder how much hassle and shipping to just get one off of amazon?


----------



## rms61moparman

zogger said:


> Seems like it. Wonder how much hassle and shipping to just get one off of amazon?






Find a "super saver shipping" and it will be free!!!


Mike


----------



## fossil

importjunk said:


> Beautiful country, but cost of living is certainly a drawback.



Not sure why anyone up here would pay that when you can get a 3400 for less than $100 and an 026 in good shape for less than a new 5020. Maybe I had too much wine tonight.


----------



## yamawho

fossil said:


> Not sure why anyone up here would pay that when you can get a 3400 for less than $100 and an 026 in good shape for less than a new 5020. Maybe I had too much wine tonight.



Was never lucky enough to find this kind of deal so I purchased the 5020 for 229$ on sale.


----------



## yamawho

Chris J. said:


> The saw shop wasn't lying to you. I was told the same the thing at a shop, & the mechtech directed me to a nearby tool shop that sold the spline tool ($9.99 + tax, about $10.80 total). Somewhere here on AS there is a link to the memo sent out by Husqvarna mentioning a fine for selling the spline tool to the public.
> 
> Oh, OK, I found it:
> 
> http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HBUS/HBUS2010/HBUS2010_530035560.pdf



I went to the closest Husky dealer about 1 mile from home and ordered the tool by part number. This guy is very rude and unpleasant but I decided to see what he would say. All he said was gimme 20$ as a deposit since there is shipping involved ...

He sells both Husky and Stihl but doesn't want to order anymore Husky saws since they are now sold at Canadian Tire. 

I tried ordering this tool from another dealer and he refused. 

I don't want to order a 9.99 tool from ebay and get screwed with 30$ shipping and even worst with brokerage changes if it goes UPS.


----------



## Captain CaveMan

I retired a Craftsman 42cc 18" this was my primary wood cutting saw, up until 2 years ago when I got my Husqvarna 445. The Craftsman was bought as a throwaway saw to cut firewood. I didn't expect it to last long but didn't at the time understand why anyone would pay so much for saws. 
Needless to say it never let me down I ran that thing year after year and it continued to work through the wood. I sold it to buy a new chainsaw yesterday. I purchased a craftsman 5098 (5020) It is coming in the mail I paid 135 shipped NEW not a reman, case and all  I am very excited. I think this will make a great saw for me. I did purchase a skip tooth jgx chain for any time I may have the bar buried, figured it would help it pull a bit better. I also order some woodsman pro semi chisel full compliment both for this saw and my 445. I figured for fun id run them against each other to see how they stack up with fresh chains. I think this will be a good long term saw for me. I do think ill do a muffler mod to this saw, just because I want to  now if it will just get here I have wood stacked waiting....Very good thread by the way, seems to me that poulan has upped the ante and have made a great saw, dollar for dollar hard to beat.


----------



## joecool85

Captain CaveMan said:


> ...seems to me that poulan has upped the ante and have made a great saw, dollar for dollar hard to beat.



Bingo. And I'd be willing to bet that now that McCulloch is under the same parent company, we will see another 5020 clone soon.


----------



## spike60

One of these saws came into the shop this week, so I thought I'd bring this thread back up and a add a few comments now that I've had a chance to get a closer look at one.

1st comment, getting right to the point is: This thing is garbage. Might be the heaviest 50cc saw money can buy, despite all of the plastic that these things have.

Customer brought it in and said the clutch came off and it probably needs a new one. He was on the right track, but the only thing wrong with the clutch was that the end of the crankshaft snapped off was still in it. (Not exactly a large diameter crank for a saw that comes with a 20" 3/8 bar.)

I wouldn't recommend this saw to anyone. :msp_thumbdn:


----------



## joecool85

spike60 said:


> One of these saws came into the shop this week, so I thought I'd bring this thread back up and a add a few comments now that I've had a chance to get a closer look at one.
> 
> 1st comment, getting right to the point is: This thing is garbage. Might be the heaviest 50cc saw money can buy, despite all of the plastic that these things have.
> 
> Customer brought it in and said the clutch came off and it probably needs a new one. He was on the right track, but the only thing wrong with the clutch was that the end of the crankshaft snapped off was still in it. (Not exactly a large diameter crank for a saw that comes with a 20" 3/8 bar.)
> 
> I wouldn't recommend this saw to anyone. :msp_thumbdn:



Spike, quit beating around the bush and tell us how you really think!  j/k

As far as plastic, I don't think it has any more or less than a Husky or Stihl really...it even has a metal chainbrake cover...which is more than I can say for my 339XP. As for the weight, you're probably right. The crank...not sure what happened there, I'd think if anyone was going to break it, someone here would have since we're all pretty hard on the equipment around here. Maybe it was a manufacturing defect.


----------



## zogger

spike60 said:


> One of these saws came into the shop this week, so I thought I'd bring this thread back up and a add a few comments now that I've had a chance to get a closer look at one.
> 
> 1st comment, getting right to the point is: This thing is garbage. Might be the heaviest 50cc saw money can buy, despite all of the plastic that these things have.
> 
> Customer brought it in and said the clutch came off and it probably needs a new one. He was on the right track, but the only thing wrong with the clutch was that the end of the crankshaft snapped off was still in it. (Not exactly a large diameter crank for a saw that comes with a 20" 3/8 bar.)
> 
> I wouldn't recommend this saw to anyone. :msp_thumbdn:



Well, that sucks. What did he say he was doing when it broke? How about the AV does it look all torn up, and is the bar bent as well?


----------



## OhioGregg

I should probably just keep my mouth shut, as I don't have a "dog in this fight". Never had my hands on one of these saws, and most likely won't. I seem to recall seeing adds all the time for cranks etc. for all kinds of saws, Stihl, Husky, Poulan, whatever, both selling and people wanting.

So I'm almost certain that the Poulan 5020 isn't the first saw that ever needed a new crank, for whatever reason. I'm sure there are good ones out there that will last a person a lifetime, and some that will have problems. Its the nature of the inexpensive beast.

I think like most things that go bad, the dealer or serving shop doesn't see the saw till something goes south on it. Obviously some have a dealer service every little thing on em, and some will never see a dealer again.

I guess you just take your chances, and how much you spend taking that chance. Being that is a new model saw, the 5020, I would think it would be covered by manufactures warranty yet. Maybe not.

Just my 2 cents.


Gregg,


----------



## Modifiedmark

spike60 said:


> One of these saws came into the shop this week, so I thought I'd bring this thread back up and a add a few comments now that I've had a chance to get a closer look at one.
> 
> 1st comment, getting right to the point is: This thing is garbage. Might be the heaviest 50cc saw money can buy, despite all of the plastic that these things have.
> 
> Customer brought it in and said the clutch came off and it probably needs a new one. He was on the right track, but the only thing wrong with the clutch was that the end of the crankshaft snapped off was still in it. (Not exactly a large diameter crank for a saw that comes with a 20" 3/8 bar.)
> 
> I wouldn't recommend this saw to anyone. :msp_thumbdn:



Interesting Post Spike. 

You sound surprised by the weight, I posted the real world PHO weight in the second post of this thread so you shouldnt be surprised. 

I also pointed out the small cranshaft dia on the PTO side and wasnt impressed by that either. Please follow up on your post though. Why do you think the crank broke? What did the owner say? 

Do you think it just broke under normal use or do you think any abuse was involved? 

Maybe it is garbage, but I would like to hear more of the story. Its not like this is the first brand of saw that ever had a crank break off there. 

I dont think these have been out for over 2 years yet so I would assume it would still be under warranty. You posted that you can order these for sale through your shop, does that mean your a Poulan warranty service center too? If so are you fixing it for the owner? If not did you direct them to a shop that would fix it? 


Just looking for some more info.


----------



## Captain CaveMan

got mine today, haven't even opened the box, was in the dark tweaking a homelite ut10580, geez if there ever was a garbage saw, that one takes the trophy home........
I am excited to take the craftsman out and put it through its paces, a pro saw it isn't, but I definitely think it will be worth the money for its use


----------



## rms61moparman

Well I'm looking for one if anyone happens to see one for cheap.
Sure wish they would start hitting Craigslist or something.


Mike


----------



## Captain CaveMan

ebay had a 5020 new go for 150 shipped yesterday, keep your eyes open deals to be had on occasion


----------



## Chris J.

rms61moparman said:


> Well I'm looking for one if anyone happens to see one for cheap.
> Sure wish they would start hitting Craigslist or something.
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike, I'm hoping to hit a "blowout sale" later this AM. The way the ad reads it makes it sound like one of those returned products, overstock, etc. grab bag deals. I'm hoping to find some PP5020s and/ or some rebadged as Craftsman 358.5098.


----------



## spike60

Modifiedmark said:


> Interesting Post Spike.
> 
> You sound surprised by the weight, I posted the real world PHO weight in the second post of this thread so you shouldnt be surprised.
> 
> I also pointed out the small cranshaft dia on the PTO side and wasnt impressed by that either. Please follow up on your post though. Why do you think the crank broke? What did the owner say?
> 
> Do you think it just broke under normal use or do you think any abuse was involved?
> 
> Maybe it is garbage, but I would like to hear more of the story. Its not like this is the first brand of saw that ever had a crank break off there.
> 
> I dont think these have been out for over 2 years yet so I would assume it would still be under warranty. You posted that you can order these for sale through your shop, does that mean your a Poulan warranty service center too? If so are you fixing it for the owner? If not did you direct them to a shop that would fix it?
> 
> 
> Just looking for some more info.



I did a little more homework Mark and I'll try and answer some of the questions you, Zogger and a few others had. Keep in mind I was curious about maybe selling them myself, as I can order them from Husky. I'm not taking shots at someone elses brand.  But after a closer look, no way they are going to find their way onto my shelf. 

The saw is not abused or beat up. Mounts are not stretched or bent at all. Saw is on it's second chain, and the bar is not yet showing any burring. The chain is in good shape with no indication that it caught anything that would cause any trama. 

Regarding the weight, I don't look at the numbers as much as how the saw feels, and it feels heavy and awkward. It seems fat to me. If the 56cc 455 rancher misses the target on power to weight, this thing misses the whole shooting range.

I measured the crank and compared it to a few other saws. We both noticed it, and our instincts are right. At the clutch point, it is only a 6mm diameter. Even the Husky 445 has an 8mm crank. The only Husky with that small a crank is the 435. Bottom line: IMO this crank is a weak point, particularly in this application pulling a 3/8 20" bar. 

Another thing I noticed is that the clip holding the airfilter on doesn't keep it very tight, and there was plenty of sawdust inside of the filter. 

I'm not a Poulan warranty center, and don't have a desire to become one if I'm not going to sell the product. But a crank replacement might be costly enough that a new saw would be granted, however I'm just guessing on that.

I just think this saw is posing as more saw than it actually is. Every company has some cheap small saws, but a cheap big saw? Kind of a hard target to hit IMO. Granted, there will be guys that run them for years with no trouble, and I hope you guys that have bought them fall into that category. I'm not saying they're all gonna break. But that can be the case with any cheap saw. There's guys that come in the store with things that we both joke, "Is that thing still running?"

I jumped in here because this thread has painted what I now think is an overly rosy picture of this saw. A lot of people read this stuff and make purchase decisions based on our comments. I just don't think it's that good a saw, and I would neither recommend it nor consider selling it in my store. I'm fully aware that many guys need a good deal on a saw, and the price and specs of this saw are certainly attractive. I also believe that it's often a lot harder for that customer to come up with $150-$200 for something like this than it is for us CAD infected guys to spend $800 on one more saw that we don't need. That customer needs a saw that's going to last; not one that will likely need to be replaced in a few years.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Spike, thanks for giving your impression after a better look. 

I tried to be objective in my posting on this saw. If you missed it, go back and read that I pointed out the clip holding the air filter and commented on that point. That part alone didnt bother me because it wouldnt take much to correct that. 


I was curious being a Poluan fan from way back. If it seems a little rosey around here, it might just be at that but I dont think it was me painting that color. I did say it should be a decent consumer saw for that price and this one failure so far dont change my mind about it yet, but if it becomes a common issue I of course would change my mind. 

I still say the main point of this saw is the selling price for its intended market, the surbuban do it yourselfer etc. The same crowd that would be buying Wildthings and the China Homelites. Yes I know that some, like you say should be buying something better that may last longer, but we both know that price will decide what they end up buying. For alot of them if they spent $600 for a Husqvarna or Stihl would still have it furbar'd in about the same time anyway. 


Like several of us here have said, this saw wasnt intended for most of us at this forum and now I see threads where they posted videos of comparisons to there Stihl's.:bang: Like the weight of it, that kind of stuff completly misses the point of this 5020. 

Being in the business your in and from what I understand your selling, I wouldnt see the point of you selling them and if I were in your shoes I doubt I would either. 

Like you said and I pointed out, that small crank dia, might be a cause of concern, but then again like you said they might not be that big of a problem. I guess time will tell as I'm betting there will be a bunch of these sold. 

The one other selling point of this 5020 is the 2 year warranty and it seems your customer has a valid claim to have it warrantied. My local shop is a Poulan repair center and they and some others I have talked to have no complaints about dealing with Poulan and there warranty. They say they fix em and Poulan pays all the time with no problems, so I hope your customer persues getting it fixed under warranty.


----------



## zogger

spike60 said:


> I did a little more homework Mark and I'll try and answer some of the questions you, Zogger and a few others had. Keep in mind I was curious about maybe selling them myself, as I can order them from Husky. I'm not taking shots at someone elses brand.  But after a closer look, no way they are going to find their way onto my shelf.
> 
> The saw is not abused or beat up. Mounts are not stretched or bent at all. Saw is on it's second chain, and the bar is not yet showing any burring. The chain is in good shape with no indication that it caught anything that would cause any trama.
> 
> Regarding the weight, I don't look at the numbers as much as how the saw feels, and it feels heavy and awkward. It seems fat to me. If the 56cc 455 rancher misses the target on power to weight, this thing misses the whole shooting range.
> 
> I measured the crank and compared it to a few other saws. We both noticed it, and our instincts are right. At the clutch point, it is only a 6mm diameter. Even the Husky 445 has an 8mm crank. The only Husky with that small a crank is the 435. Bottom line: IMO this crank is a weak point, particularly in this application pulling a 3/8 20" bar.
> 
> Another thing I noticed is that the clip holding the airfilter on doesn't keep it very tight, and there was plenty of sawdust inside of the filter.
> 
> I'm not a Poulan warranty center, and don't have a desire to become one if I'm not going to sell the product. But a crank replacement might be costly enough that a new saw would be granted, however I'm just guessing on that.
> 
> I just think this saw is posing as more saw than it actually is. Every company has some cheap small saws, but a cheap big saw? Kind of a hard target to hit IMO. Granted, there will be guys that run them for years with no trouble, and I hope you guys that have bought them fall into that category. I'm not saying they're all gonna break. But that can be the case with any cheap saw. There's guys that come in the store with things that we both joke, "Is that thing still running?"
> 
> I jumped in here because this thread has painted what I now think is an overly rosy picture of this saw. A lot of people read this stuff and make purchase decisions based on our comments. I just don't think it's that good a saw, and I would neither recommend it nor consider selling it in my store. I'm fully aware that many guys need a good deal on a saw, and the price and specs of this saw are certainly attractive. I also believe that it's often a lot harder for that customer to come up with $150-$200 for something like this than it is for us CAD infected guys to spend $800 on one more saw that we don't need. That customer needs a saw that's going to last; not one that will likely need to be replaced in a few years.



Good reply, thanks!


----------



## rms61moparman

Hey Mark,

Do you by chance know the crank diameter of a 295 off the top of your head???

I also wonder if the customer spike is referring to did his obligatory "chain brake check" at the beginning of every cutting day.
It makes me shudder when I see people crank a saw up to full throttle out of the wood and suddenly snap the brake handle forward!:msp_scared:
I don't suppose the rotating mass of the crank, piston/rod assembly and flywheel would have enough force to do any permanent damage though.


Mike


----------



## fossil

Talking to guys with homeowner saws over the years I would think a stiff crank end would be a good idea. Most don't understand why the chain gets loose when new and I'll bet a lot of them crank it down hard when the chain is hot. For some of them bar oil is just a suggestion.
I would bet most never read past the "how to start the saw" in the owner's manual.


----------



## spike60

Mark, I 100% agree with everthing you said. I didn't in anyway want to come off sounding like I was being critical of you or anyone else for saying some positive things about the saw. But as we all know, it's tricky when posting on a site to not inadvertently send the wrong message, so I'm sorry if it came off that way. I know that you and others also mentioned the limitations this saw would have for members, and you noticed all of the same faults I found when I got to see it up close. But I think visitors to this site, and it seems like there are always 3 to 4 times as many guests as members any more, might think this was a better buy than it really is.

And you're also right about the price buyer never changing his viewpoint: He's always going to buy on price. And they are the ones most likely to want a saw to be more than it is. I'm dumping the last of my 435 refurbs @ $150, and I can't wait til they're gone. (Just a couple left) Nobody can simply accept these little saws for what they are. They see a Husky for $150 and they want to cut 8 cords of wood a year, clear acreage, they ask if they can put a 20' bar on it. In fact, the guy who brought in the 5020, bought one of those 435's. He'll probably buy another one. 

As to what will happen to his 5020, I haven't heard back from him since I left him a message. 

As far as affordability goes, it's like I told someone who bought a 435 yesterday: No matter how good the price looks, you still have to have the right tool for the job, or the end result will be disappointment in the purchase. 

I think cheap saws like wild things have a place as occasional tools, and they make sense for a guy who needs to take down a small tree or clean up after a storm. But IMO, anyone who is going to need and rely on a saw to heat his home should try and save up the extra $ he'll need to get a saw that will get the job done over the long haul. I realize that sometimes a cheap saw might be necessary as a bridge to get there. 

It's funny, but I had a chance to get wild thing refurbs for $40. No kidding. At that price, why not, right? Mark them up $25 and sell them like donuts or something. "How many ya want?" But folks still expect them to run, and if they don't they come back unhappy, and then after a little bit of that, I'm unhappy. So I thought it best to just stay out of that arena altogether. 

Got a real long winded post here, don't I? LOL Time to run downstairs and get something to eat.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Yep, I got cha, hear ya loud and clear and agree with ya! 

Funny you brought up the Husky 435. I picked up a referb a few weeks back and wasnt real impressed with it and like you say, I can see guys thinking just because they say Husqvarna on it, they think they can do anything with it. 

I picked it up really for a guy at work and he wants it just mainly for a limbing saw. He seems to take good care of his stuff and I think it will be fine for his fire wood limbing dutys.


----------



## SasquatchMan

Spike: great detailed rundown on possible weak links in the saw, very well thought out critique. 


I think this is a great thread for someone considering this purchase. For all the back-and-forth, there's a bunch of great info in here, and a guy reading this thread is now in a position of making an informed decision.

Didn't realize that comparing the saw to a 50cc Stihl was so wrong. Noted for future reference.


----------



## Modifiedmark

SasquatchMan said:


> .
> 
> Didn't realize that comparing the saw to a 50cc Stihl was so wrong. Noted for future reference.



Nope not wrong at all if you really feel the need to do it to decide if a $200 consumer saw is fast enough to earn its keep for you. 

I was just insinuating that it is some of the pointless stuff that goes on around here, even if the Stihl can beat it, so what, the Stihl is still twice the price of the 5020. 

Kinda like a couple of geeks taking there mopeds out to the drag strip. Yeah one will probably outrun the other but in the end there both still mopeds and will not come close to winning a race against a 900cc crotch rocket.


----------



## rms61moparman

Modifiedmark said:


> Nope not wrong at all if you really feel the need to do it to decide if a $200 consumer saw is fast enough to earn its keep for you.
> 
> I was just insinuating that it is some of the pointless stuff that goes on around here, even if the Stihl can beat it, so what, the Stihl is still twice the price of the 5020.
> 
> Kinda like a couple of geeks taking there mopeds out to the drag strip. Yeah one will probably outrun the other but in the end there both still mopeds and will not come close to winning a race against a 900cc crotch rocket.





Even the slow moped might look fantastic if you are walking the 10 miles to town!


Mike


----------



## Vibes

I'll be the first to take the low road comment on this subject, and compare this saw ,and this breakdown to whenever someone complains about having problems with an equally built saw of THE SUPERIOR manufacturer of saws from Virginia. " Had to be operator error" LOL!!!.


----------



## 3000 FPS

Vibes said:


> I'll be the first to take the low road comment on this subject, and compare this saw ,and this breakdown to whenever someone complains about having problems with an equally built saw of THE SUPERIOR manufacturer of saws from Virginia. " Had to be operator error" LOL!!!.



You never know could have pinched the bar and then did the gorilla yank on it to get it out. Snap goes the crank end.


----------



## joecool85

3000 FPS said:


> You never know could have pinched the bar and then did the gorilla yank on it to get it out. Snap goes the crank end.



Quite possible, though I would like to see a larger diameter crank regardless. Not a deal breaker for me if I was in the market for a cheap saw, but it'd be a plus if it was a little tougher. Fix that and the air filter thing, tack on $50 and call it the 5020 SUPER or something.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Sure wish someone would trade me a 5020 so I could wring it out :help:. 

Dag-nab poulan gtg didnt even have one there to try.  Guess we didnt want the 550 to look bad. :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## Modifiedmark

JeremiahJohnson said:


> Sure wish someone would trade me a 5020 so I could wring it out :help:.
> 
> Dag-nab poulan gtg didnt even have one there to try.  Guess we didnt want the 550 to look bad. :hmm3grin2orange:



Well Kevin, when I wanted to see one, I got out my wallet and bought one. :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## rms61moparman

Modifiedmark said:


> Well Kevin, when I wanted to see one, I got out my wallet and *bought one*. :hmm3grin2orange:





That'll be enough of that blasphemy!!!:msp_angry:


Mike


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

There was a like new used one local for $75 I tried to get. But I wont pay $200 for one that is for sure just to use to test with.  

One will come along and I am being patient. :msp_tongue: Just like the husky 455 I finally got to test drive for a week. Take that saw all day long over a 290. :msp_thumbup:


----------



## zogger

JeremiahJohnson said:


> Sure wish someone would trade me a 5020 so I could wring it out :help:.
> 
> Dag-nab poulan gtg didnt even have one there to try.  Guess we didnt want the 550 to look bad. :hmm3grin2orange:



Husky 550? Saw one today in pieces when I went into town to the shop, catastrophic major failure. 90 day "pro" I think warranty return, the owner got a new saw. Con rod broke in half, tore a cut down through the cylinder, etc. pretty bad, it's all tore up. No pics, sorry.


----------



## Modifiedmark

JeremiahJohnson said:


> There was a like new used one local for $75 I tried to get. But I wont pay $200 for one that is for sure just to use to test with.
> 
> One will come along and I am being patient. :msp_tongue: Just like the husky 455 I finally got to test drive for a week. Take that saw all day long over a 290. :msp_thumbup:



Well I had a guy at work in mind when I bought the 5020. Got to give it a good try out then got evey dime back out of it. 

The new owner was happy that i got all checked out, tuned etc. Better run in than most saw shops would have gave a new pro saw.


----------



## speedfreak

Well with all the good reviews I went ahead and bought one. The "tech guy" at Rural King had used it for something so it had fuel in it and they sold it for 150. I was just going to use it for a week and then sell it. The "tech guy" said that he had it running perfect so I foolishly took it that he knew what he was talking about......... Well long story short. 1/2 a tank later you can see the ring through the sparkplug hole. She was set to lean melted the piston lip. Compression is under 10 psi. Won't blow your finger off the hole. I didn't worry about dialing it in because he "had it running perfect" 

So much for that. Now I get to check out the warranty.... Grrrr..


----------



## Chris J.

speedfreak said:


> Well with all the good reviews I went ahead and bought one. The "tech guy" at Rural King had used it for something so it had fuel in it and they sold it for 150. I was just going to use it for a week and then sell it. The "tech guy" said that he had it running perfect so I foolishly took it that he knew what he was talking about......... Well long story short. 1/2 a tank later you can see the ring through the sparkplug hole. She was set to lean melted the piston lip. Compression is under 10 psi. Won't blow your finger off the hole. I didn't worry about dialing it in because he "had it running perfect"
> 
> So much for that. Now I get to check out the warranty.... Grrrr..



That sucks!

Did RK sell it to you as a new saw? Refurb with limited warranty? Used with limited warranty, or As-Is?

I'm curious because I've never bought a 'used' saw from a saw shop or box store. I've eyed some returned saws at Lowe's, but never paid attention to the warranty/non-warranty.


----------



## speedfreak

It had a sticker that said as is I asked them exactly what that was and they said that I could not return it for a refund it still had the factory warranty but if anything happen I would have to just get it fixed. I called the guy today the "tech" and told him what happened he said bring it in and he would look at it so I took it in and when he pulled the rope he said that the motor was gone and I need a new saw he called his manager and told the manager it was a new saw off of the shelf.. I didn't say a word. They pulled another off the shelf a new one sealed in the box and I walked out with it...


YEA worked good for me... I just hope this one isn't set just like the other one. I might take it apart and cut slots in the adjusting screws so I can tune it and make sure it runs correctly.


----------



## indiansprings

These saws are exactly what they are, a price point saw targeted at the person who uses a saw every once in a while, they aren't meant too be a pro Husky or Stihl. In the last two weeks I have repaired prolly 14 or 15 Wild Things and Wood Sharks, every one of them with the exception of two were nothing but total fuel line replacement/ primer bulb replacement, two were so worn out compression was in the 
70/80 lbs range. To be quite honest I am amazed at the abuse and use these little saws live through, I have a whole new level of respect for them for the money and what they are intended for. I live in an economically challenged rural farm area, there are many folks who get by with nothing more, nope they are not a pro saw but sure as hell beats an axe or crosscut. Ethanol just kills the fuel lines on them, replace them and nine times out of ten they are up and running.


----------



## Modifiedmark

speedfreak said:


> It had a sticker that said as is I asked them exactly what that was and they said that I could not return it for a refund it still had the factory warranty but if anything happen I would have to just get it fixed. I called the guy today the "tech" and told him what happened he said bring it in and he would look at it so I took it in and when he pulled the rope he said that the motor was gone and I need a new saw he called his manager and told the manager it was a new saw off of the shelf.. I didn't say a word. They pulled another off the shelf a new one sealed in the box and I walked out with it...
> 
> 
> YEA worked good for me... I just hope this one isn't set just like the other one. I might take it apart and cut slots in the adjusting screws so I can tune it and make sure it runs correctly.



You just made out real good on a new in the box saw, now quit being silly and so cheap. Go spend $10 or less on the proper tool to adjust that carb. 

You will thank me later.

Also dont get in too big a hurry to retune the carb as the one I had was pretty much right on out of the box. If it does need adjusting I'll bet its just a little bit.


----------



## Bingo

*Poulan 5020/ethanol probs*

Re Indiansprings post:...Don't mean to hijack this thread at all (and can't give creds here), but is it possible something like Stabil's newer anti-ethanol formula might help in delaying the effects of ethanol on fuel lines? My saw is over ten years old and using the same fuel line it came with. I use Stabil in every 5-gal gas can I get...Is there anything better to use or am I just lucky so far?....Ethanol is a problem that may be around for awhile and I'd like to know the best way to combat it...if possilbe. I don't really like burning food products in my saw...Tks...


----------



## Chris J.

Bingo said:


> ...
> is it possible something like Stabil's newer anti-ethanol formula might help in delaying the effects of ethanol on fuel lines?...



Several folks here have reported that the MARINE Formula STA-BIL Ethanol Treatment is the one to use. I've had good luck with the regular Sta-Bil, but plan to switch to the MFET when I need more S-B.

Deprecated Browser Error


----------



## rms61moparman

My Poulan/Dolmar dealer gave me a bottle of "ETHANOL SHIELD" the other day to try.

Claims that it "Eliminates All Ethanol Problems".

I won't go into too many details as the company isn't an AS sponsor, but I'll bet if you google "ETHANOL SHIELD" you can probably find out what it is.

Must be strong stuff as 4 oz. is supposed to treat 40 gallons of gasoline.


Mike


----------



## Andyshine77

rms61moparman said:


> My Poulan/Dolmar dealer gave me a bottle of "ETHANOL SHIELD" the other day to try.
> 
> Claims that it "Eliminates All Ethanol Problems".
> 
> I won't go into too many details as the company isn't an AS sponsor, but I'll bet if you google "ETHANOL SHIELD" you can probably find out what it is.
> 
> Must be strong stuff as 4 oz. is supposed to treat 40 gallons of gasoline.
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike my goody bag from the Poulan gtg had a 1 OZ bottle of Ethanol equalizer, it also will treat 10 gallons per OZ. Not sure what's in it, but it smells a lot like lacquer thinner. Honestly I did a quick and non scientific test and the stuff will remove paint and eat plastic for lunch. Needless to say I'm not going to use it, IMHO it's snake oil.


----------



## OhioGregg

Andyshine77 said:


> Mike my goody bag from the Poulan gtg had a 1 OZ bottle of Ethanol equalizer, it also will treat 10 gallons per OZ. Not sure what's in it, but it smells a lot like lacquer thinner. Honestly I did a quick and non scientific test and the stuff will remove paint and eat plastic for lunch. Needless to say I'm not going to use it, IMHO it's snake oil.



Yikes!! I tried some of that in the last jug of fuel I just mixed up. Don't know if its friend or foe. So far I have run it through my super 380 & a 4000. They are still running,. So far.:confused2:

Gregg,


----------



## Andyshine77

OhioGregg said:


> Yikes!! I tried some of that in the last jug of fuel I just mixed up. Don't know if its friend or foe. So far I have run it through my super 380 & a 4000. They are still running,. So far.:confused2:
> 
> Gregg,



Gregg I may have sounded to harsh about the stuff, but I'm not inclined to use it lol.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Back on topic, Spike touched on the excess weight of the 5020, and it stuck in my head as from the beginning I thought that while being no lightweight it really wasnt out of line for its intended purpose and price range.

Looking through my files of saw weights last night I was reminded that the Stihl 029 SUPER weighs over 1lb more then the 5020 and is only a few cc bigger.

Seems a overwhelming majority thinks the weight of the 029 is not out of line for a homeowner saw so I don't see how the 5020 could be criticized to bad especially seeing that it is a strato.


----------



## grizzly708

*Just bought one today*

I finally wore out my Wildthing after 12 years of service. I could not begin to tell you how much firewood that old saw cut in it's lifetime. No, I don't use it every day but do heat an 1890's farm house exclusively with wood in northern Michigan if that gives an idea. I bought the 5020AV after research and this thread topped it off, thank you! If I get the same quality from this as I did Miss Thing than I will be a happy (and warm) camper! I am very very fussy about keeping my saws clean which I think makes all the difference in the world to a long saw life.

Grizz

BTW: my other saw is a little 38cc 14" Homelite that has been a little champ it's self!


----------



## SawTroll

Modifiedmark said:


> Back on topic, Spike touched on the excess weight of the 5020, and it stuck in my head as from the beginning I thought that while being no lightweight it really wasnt out of line for its intended purpose and price range.
> 
> Looking through my files of saw weights last night I was reminded that the Stihl 029 SUPER weighs over 1lb more then the 5020 and is only a few cc bigger.
> 
> Seems a overwhelming majority thinks the weight of the 029 is not out of line for a homeowner saw so I don't see how the 5020 could be criticized to bad especially seeing that it is a strato.



Well, the 029 hardly is a worthy "milestone" to compare to, as that signals you are discussing really crappy saws....:taped:


----------



## Modifiedmark

grizzly708 said:


> I finally wore out my Wildthing after 12 years of service. I could not begin to tell you how much firewood that old saw cut in it's lifetime. No, I don't use it every day but do heat an 1890's farm house exclusively with wood in northern Michigan if that gives an idea. I bought the 5020AV after research and this thread topped it off, thank you! If I get the same quality from this as I did Miss Thing than I will be a happy (and warm) camper! I am very very fussy about keeping my saws clean which I think makes all the difference in the world to a long saw life.
> 
> Grizz
> 
> BTW: my other saw is a little 38cc 14" Homelite that has been a little champ it's self!



Welcome, and from the sounds of it, and the way you care for stuff, I'm sure it will be a just fine saw for you. 




SawTroll said:


> Well, the 029 hardly is a worthy "milestone" to compare to, as that signals you are discussing really crappy saws....:taped:



Well...... 

Yeah I know where your coming from, but it is what it is. 

I think my perspective on the comparison still stands.

Now repete after me, $200 out the door, $200 out the door.......


----------



## FastGame

$200 out the door, $200 out the door.......


----------



## rms61moparman

SawTroll said:


> Well, the 029 hardly is a worthy "milestone" to compare to, as that signals you are discussing really crappy saws....:taped:





Well now Niko ol' buddy,
You have to remember that not everyone NEEDS a $1000.00 pro saw.
There are those who would rather have an adequate $200.00 (out the door) saw and put the other $800.00 to work for themselves MAKING money instead of having it tied up in expensive, overpriced chainsaws like the nuts here at A.S.!!!


Just sayin'

Mike


----------



## stihl023/5

Modifiedmark said:


> Welcome, and from the sounds of it, and the way you care for stuff, I'm sure it will be a just fine saw for you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well......
> 
> Yeah I know where your coming from, but it is what it is.
> 
> I think my perspective on the comparison still stands.
> 
> Now repete after me, $200 out the door, $200 out the door.......



I am going to check one out. I have a pp295 no race horse but does the job.:msp_smile:


----------



## zogger

SawTroll said:


> Well, the 029 hardly is a worthy "milestone" to compare to, as that signals you are discussing really crappy saws....:taped:




I think you are missing the point by a mile here...proly something like 95% of the wood cut in the USA is cut by joe homeowners and farmers wielding cheap poulans, stihl 290s, husky 235s or 435s, box store small echoes, etc. there's a huge market in the under 300 dollar (or so) saws. Because really, that is all they need. There are millions, literally millions, of people who won't go through two gallons of mix a year, counting both the saw and the weed whacker. Something like the pp5020 fits the bill just fine for a lot of people, same with the 290. Little bit heavier or doesn't cut as fast as a 346 or 261, pfft, they won't know or care and are not going to spend double or triple to get that three seconds faster in a bucking cut time or two lbs lighter saw. They just ain't gonna drop *another* 300 bucks more on a saw looks almost the same to them while sitting on the shelf. I saw this just a couple weeks ago at the local husky shop, joe homeowner came in, they got a 346xp there..they showed him a..I forget, a 445?/something, home owner grade for much cheaper, the around 300 buck saw.. why? They want to make a sale, not have the dude walk out and go someplace else. And that saw will work for that guy for what he needs. He doesn't need or want the 500 buck saw, plus tax and BS, comes out to 550 bucks. No sale at that level to 95% of the saw buying public.

And they know when one of the dwindling in numbers fast local pro cutters come in, they have that grade (346 and 372, etc) for those guys (most timber here is now mechanized harvester cut). They can pay for that extra quality because in part, not only a nicer day to day production saw, but it is a tax writeoff as well. They make more money easier plus get a writeoff on the saw.

Different saw strokes for different folks.

200 bucks for a new 50 cc saw ain't too shabby, even if it is a light duty saw.

Heck, that was exactly me six years ago, I cut all my personal firewood and all my necessary farm work trimming, fencelines and pasture edges, with a 200 buck husky 137 for four years. Bought it new, my first new saw, in 2006. I only got into larger saws and this site from getting nailed with the tornado two years ago and just slap needed "more" saw, then just got into it more. I am still learning daily, how to work better on saws, how to work WITH saws better, etc. 

That little husky is still pulling strong today and I could still do all my firewood and work with it if that is all I had. the bigger saws are nice now because i can tackle larger trees easier and so on, but it isn't an absolute necessity either. Pro saw..nope..big..nope..but it was only 200 clams and worked just fine for me. If the tornado hadn't hit here I doubt I would have gotten another saw. I recognize now being able to tackle larger trees is a good thing plus it is fun, I am enjoying it and in this weather I am cutting daily, but short of emergency work..the 2-300 dollar homeowner grade saws -any brand- work well for the vast majority of people who cut out there today.


----------



## SawTroll

rms61moparman said:


> Well now Niko ol' buddy,
> You have to remember that not everyone NEEDS a $1000.00 pro saw.
> There are those who would rather have an adequate $200.00 (out the door) saw and put the other $800.00 to work for themselves MAKING money instead of having it tied up in expensive, overpriced chainsaws like the nuts here at A.S.!!!
> 
> 
> Just sayin'
> 
> Mike



Where does the fun go, with that attitude? :msp_biggrin:


----------



## rms61moparman

SawTroll said:


> Where does the fun go, with that attitude? :msp_biggrin:






For most of them the fun goes to....."Aruba, Jamaca, oooooooh I want to take her to Bermuda, Bahama, come on pretty Mama, Key Largo, Montego baby why don't we go, oooooh I want to take you down to Kokomo"!!!!!

Let's take $800.00 that Grizzly708 saved and multiply that by 9.5% that could be earned in a decent mutual fund.
Now multiply that by the 12 years that he owned the saw and the total would be $2377.17.

A pretty tidy sum and for MOST of the people who own a chainsaw, can be a LOT more pleasureable than looking up at a shelf in the garage twice a day and thinking "Man that pro saw looks good sitting there gathering dust.".........


Mike


----------



## Okole

Thanks for all the info on this home owner saw. 
This saw is just what I am looking for, having lent out my old and trusty Husky 350 to a friend who ran it on straight gas and scored the cylinder/piston... returned it not running...

I only cut down and cut up a few 30ft palm trees 2-3 times a year. Max 18" diameter.
I don't need to spend $400 on a good saw, just an adequate one.

Lowes is out of stock of the Poulan 5020
Sears has the 35098 in stock for $209.99 plus tax.

Exact same model?

http://www.arboristsite.com/asset.php?fid=237627&uid=89441&d=1352000603


----------



## Guido Salvage

rms61moparman said:


> Let's take $800.00 that Grizzly708 saved and multiply that by 9.5% that could be earned in a decent mutual fund. Now multiply that by the 12 years that he owned the saw and the total would be $2377.17.



Where are you getting a 9.5% return?


----------



## mweba

Guido Salvage said:


> Where are you getting a 9.5% return?



Mike certainly didn't buy into Facebook....green energy market maybe? :jester:


----------



## rms61moparman

Guido Salvage said:


> Where are you getting a 9.5% return?





Several places!
Quite a bit more than that too.

But not CD's or money markets.


Mike


----------



## rms61moparman

mweba said:


> Mike certainly didn't buy into Facebook....green energy market maybe? :jester:





I'm waiting for ArboristSite to announce it's IPO!!!:msp_biggrin:


Mike


----------



## joecool85

Okole said:


> Thanks for all the info on this home owner saw.
> This saw is just what I am looking for, having lent out my old and trusty Husky 350 to a friend who ran it on straight gas and scored the cylinder/piston... returned it not running...
> 
> I only cut down and cut up a few 30ft palm trees 2-3 times a year. Max 18" diameter.
> I don't need to spend $400 on a good saw, just an adequate one.
> 
> Lowes is out of stock of the Poulan 5020
> Sears has the 35098 in stock for $209.99 plus tax.
> 
> Exact same model?
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/asset.php?fid=237627&uid=89441&d=1352000603



Same saw just black plastic.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Hum, I was back in the save big money store yesterday and seen the 5020 was back on sale till the 18th for $169.


----------



## redheadwoodshed

Okole said:


> Thanks for all the info on this home owner saw.
> This saw is just what I am looking for, having lent out my old and trusty Husky 350 to a friend who ran it on straight gas and scored the cylinder/piston... returned it not running...
> 
> I only cut down and cut up a few 30ft palm trees 2-3 times a year. Max 18" diameter.
> I don't need to spend $400 on a good saw, just an adequate one.
> 
> Lowes is out of stock of the Poulan 5020
> Sears has the 35098 in stock for $209.99 plus tax.
> 
> Exact same model?
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/asset.php?fid=237627&uid=89441&d=1352000603



Welcome to AS! Buy the Poulan and fix the 350.You can get a new piston and cylinder reasonable.


----------



## Okole

joecool85 - Mahalo for the confirmation that this is the exact same saw as the Poulan Pro 5020. Good to know!

redheadwoodshed - thanks for the welcome! You guys have a great forum here! 

I have the husky 350 back from the shop with the muffler off. 
When I get the time I will take another look at it and see what I can do.
I have seen some parts on e-bay. 
Will read all the 350 threads here before I strip her down. 
Maybe buy a shop manual 1st !!

Meanwhile I see our Lowes has the Poulan Pro 5020 in stock at $219. 
I might well pick up one of these saws tomorrow and see how she does cutting down Coconut and report back.

Aloha!


----------



## Captain CaveMan

ok I got two of these, one new and one used. Both in Craftsman flavor but same thing. I got the used one up and running and tuned the carb threw a new chain on it and put it in wood, it is a heavy saw. But for a consumer grade saw I have to say I'm impressed things are logically placed and it is fairly well designed.
It has a pretty decent power output but yes you can see there's just flat out too much bar. I ran the used one long enough to verify perfect function and tune the saw. My brother in law loves it hes been cutting hard with it for a while.... 
I pulled mine out of the box and got it running, it was farther out of tune than most Craftsman's. But I have it running pretty good. Mine seems to be a little finicky on the high side it likes to surge when its buried in the cut. But I have it running pretty decent. It is a good all around saw yes a little heavy yes a little too much bar, but honestly its a pretty darn nice saw it runs well has decent power and is priced right. I think it will be a durable saw for the money. It is a bit gas hungry I have noticed It does like to drink the fuel. But otherwise I don't feel bad having it in my collection. Now its time to tweak the muffler.


----------



## FastGame

Captain CaveMan said:


> It is a bit gas hungry I have noticed It does like to drink the fuel. But otherwise I don't feel bad having it in my collection. Now its time to tweak the muffler.



I think they have the Strato engine so should be decent on gas, maybe needs to be broken in more or maybe small gas tank ? The guy next door has one and he beats it up...still runs nice for the $$


----------



## Jimothy

+1

Thanks Modifiedmark and all.

This thread(and forum) made my buy a no brainer for me.

Lovin it so far.


----------



## fossil

Okole said:


> joecool85 - Mahalo for the confirmation that this is the exact same saw as the Poulan Pro 5020. Good to know!
> 
> redheadwoodshed - thanks for the welcome! You guys have a great forum here!
> 
> I have the husky 350 back from the shop with the muffler off.
> When I get the time I will take another look at it and see what I can do.
> I have seen some parts on e-bay.
> Will read all the 350 threads here before I strip her down.
> Maybe buy a shop manual 1st !!
> 
> Aloha!



Go to the stickie section and ask for an IPL and shop manual for your 350

http://www.arboristsite.com/stickies/68615-1089.htm


----------



## Okole

Thanks for the pointer to the 'Beg for manuals' thread! This Forum never ceases to amaze me!

I went ahead and got one of the Craftsman flavor saws. It was on sale $21 off if bought online and picked up in store, for a total of $196 inc tax. Not too bad a price. Been too busy to fire her up yet, but will do on Tuesday. 

Aloha!


----------



## s sidewall

This has to be the longest thread on this web site, took me days to read it. Nothing wrong with a homeowners saw for that price.Thats a no brainer there.


----------



## importjunk

It is a good source of information, but not the longest by any means. Check out the Poulan thread under stickies. 1457 pages,almost 22,000 posts. Now get reading, book report due Monday.


----------



## russhd1997

opcorn:


----------



## 7sleeper

importjunk said:


> It is a good source of information, but not the longest by any means. Check out the Poulan thread under stickies. 1457 pages,almost 22,000 posts. Now get reading, book report due Monday next year!.



There fixed it for ya. 

7


----------



## Modifiedmark

This thread just keeps poping up so I might as well tell ya that Sears has a online special right now on these for I think it was $179 and free shipping.


----------



## CTYank

Modifiedmark said:


> This thread just keeps poping up so I might as well tell ya that Sears has a online special right now on these for I think it was $179 and free shipping.



Thanks for the tip, Mark. (I've got my copy and it just keeps running better after about 15 tanks.)

I told some friends, and they're trying to arrange $ and conflict-avoidance. :msp_wink:

One of them has run it, and seen it cutting big oak at full-song, so it's a no-brainer for him.


----------



## Modifiedmark

CTYank said:


> Thanks for the tip, Mark. (I've got my copy and it just keeps running better after about 15 tanks.)
> 
> I told some friends, and they're trying to arrange $ and conflict-avoidance. :msp_wink:
> 
> One of them has run it, and seen it cutting big oak at full-song, so it's a no-brainer for him.



Thanks for the report. Most seem do be doing ok or else we would have heard about them I would think.


----------



## russhd1997

I just bought one of these PP5020 saws for my son in law for Christmas. We cut about 25 cords of wood a year here and he does a good share of it. This saw looks to built a lot like my Jonsered 2036 and that is my primary limbing saw. If this saw is as trouble free as the J-red we are going to like it. Other than the one with the broken crank it seems that everyone else is happy with it. I will report back here on how this saw performs and any likes/dislikes. This saw is going to get a good work out here. Probably 30 years worth of Joe homeowner use in one year. Time will tell if I made a good decision when I bought this saw.


----------



## zogger

russhd1997 said:


> I just bought one of these PP5020 saws for my son in law for Christmas. We cut about 25 cords of wood a year here and he does a good share of it. This saw looks to built a lot like my Jonsered 2036 and that is my primary limbing saw. If this saw is as trouble free as the J-red we are going to like it. Other than the one with the broken crank it seems that everyone else is happy with it. I will report back here on how this saw performs and any likes/dislikes. This saw is going to get a good work out here. Probably 30 years worth of Joe homeowner use in one year. Time will tell if I made a good decision when I bought this saw.



Ya, please do! Long term use reviews are good. There most like *are* more weak points to find out about, so your winter workout should find them!


----------



## Okole

Started her up today.

Fresh ethanol free gas, STA-BIL and 40:1 mix with synth oil, 
Followed the instructions to the T.
She started right up!
Ran at fast idle for 30 secs.
Stopped and restarted her several times. 
Idled perfectly.
Perfect.

I will chop Coconut as soon as I get time and report back.

Aloha!


----------



## TheDiabolicaL1

Thanks to all who contributed in this thread. I just finished reading the entire thing and I'll be looking to get my hands on a 5020 tomorrow. 

Today, my dear ole hand-me down/freebie Homelite XL Auto lost spark halfway finished filling up my truck. This isn't the first time she's decided for whatever reason to refuse to run after an hour or so of cutting wood perfectly. Last year she gave me her exploded view too many times to count. I'm not one to shy away from a project and I have full intent on getting her running again but I need a saw *now.* 

The auto oiler has never worked in the homelite. Years ago it was converted to a thumb pump. thumb pumps bring the suck. The clutch is badly worn in the homelite as well. Slightly less than the weight of the saw itself and it starts slipping badly. As I understand it, parts are hard to come by these days, most of what is available is used. The homelite is *heavy.* It's terribly inefficient and now with a no spark issue... well, the ole girl needs to be shelved for a while and repaired correctly before being put back into service. May live the rest of it's days being a truck saw, back up saw, loaner saw, helper saw, or my saw when the wife decides to finally come help get some ******* firewood! haha

That said, I like quality items but at this time, I simply can't justify the expense of the big two. I don't use my saw year around. I cut between 4-6 cords of firewood a year to heat my home. The price of the big two have kept me putting bandaids on my ole homelite. My quest begun today for a cheaper alternative that offered a middle ground for my standard of heavy use (4-6 cords per year) and price. I think the 5020 will suit me well for it's intended purpose.

Hell, it's cheaper than nearly every used example of husky or stihl I can find on craigslist around my area, and there's a bunch of them right now.


----------



## CTYank

Welcome, Diabolical.

I got a 5020 about a year ago, mainly as backup heavy artillery for my pursuits of firewooding and storm cleanup. Found out it could keep up with a Husqy 455r- not bad for $100 less than a 455r refurb. And ... it works great for noodling- really spits the chips clear.

After about 15 tanks, it's still loosening up- a good sign to me about expected longevity.

(You can find good prices on non-pro Husqy refurbs at vminnovations dot com- prices include shipping.)

Probs noted so far:

1) air filter seal not-so-good away from the spring clip. Tiny bead of silicone fixed it. I clean filter in place.

2) fuel line in tank softened at filter, releasing same, with saw sucking wind. Snipped off 1/8" of fuel line for temp fix- easy fix in the field. Soon to be replaced with some .160" - .180" Tygon fuel line. Gotta wonder why they use the cheap vinyl? crap. Don't tell me.

3) I wish the oil pump was driven off the clutch as in my 455r. Would spray less on starting a cut.


----------



## zogger

CTYank said:


> Welcome, Diabolical.
> 
> I got a 5020 about a year ago, mainly as backup heavy artillery for my pursuits of firewooding and storm cleanup. Found out it could keep up with a Husqy 455r- not bad for $100 less than a 455r refurb. And ... it works great for noodling- really spits the chips clear.
> 
> After about 15 tanks, it's still loosening up- a good sign to me about expected longevity.
> 
> (You can find good prices on non-pro Husqy refurbs at vminnovations dot com- prices include shipping.)
> 
> Probs noted so far:
> 
> 1) air filter seal not-so-good away from the spring clip. Tiny bead of silicone fixed it. I clean filter in place.
> 
> 2) fuel line in tank softened at filter, releasing same, with saw sucking wind. Snipped off 1/8" of fuel line for temp fix- easy fix in the field. Soon to be replaced with some .160" - .180" Tygon fuel line. Gotta wonder why they use the cheap vinyl? crap. Don't tell me.
> 
> 3) I wish the oil pump was driven off the clutch as in my 455r. Would spray less on starting a cut.



Good to know about the crap fuel lines. I can see some cost savings taken by the maker, but adding less than a dollar to make them more reliable seems like they should have done that.


----------



## 7sleeper

That's what you call market economy.

7


----------



## Modifiedmark

CTYank said:


> (You can find good prices on non-pro Husqy refurbs at vminnovations dot com- prices include shipping.)
> 
> Probs noted so far:
> 
> 2) fuel line in tank softened at filter, releasing same, with saw sucking wind. Snipped off 1/8" of fuel line for temp fix- easy fix in the field. Soon to be replaced with some .160" - .180" Tygon fuel line. Gotta wonder why they use the cheap vinyl? crap. Don't tell me.
> 
> 3) I wish the oil pump was driven off the clutch as in my 455r. Would spray less on starting a cut.



Curious what type of gas your using in your saws, non ethanol or E-10. If E-10 do you have a tester and actually check it once in a while? Do you ever drain the saw and run dry after use? 

I'm just trying to see if I can trace a pattern with these as I know IndianSprings has been on a rampage about the fuel lines on Poulans. 

Myself I have not seen the amount of trouble he has been reporting, yeah I have seen my share of bad line problems (pleanty on other brands also) but nothing consistant yet and not on anything that new yet.


I just worked on 2 Poulans last weekend, a 2003 PP295 that just was to the point of getting ready to have line failure that I know never gets its E-10 gas drained and is used very little and a 2000 1950 Woodshark that didnt need its orginal lines replaced yet. 

I myself think that the lines lasting 10 years on the 295 is more then good service. 


As for the clutch driven oiler, I suppose that would be nice, but is it really going to be THAT nice? Not nice enough to justify the cost and make a $200 not a $200 saw anymore far as I'm concerned.


----------



## JimM

russhd1997 said:


> I just bought one of these PP5020 saws for my son in law for Christmas. We cut about 25 cords of wood a year here and he does a good share of it. This saw looks to built a lot like my Jonsered 2036 and that is my primary limbing saw. If this saw is as trouble free as the J-red we are going to like it. Other than the one with the broken crank it seems that everyone else is happy with it. I will report back here on how this saw performs and any likes/dislikes. This saw is going to get a good work out here. Probably 30 years worth of Joe homeowner use in one year. Time will tell if I made a good decision when I bought this saw.



I dont see this saw as being anything like my 2036. Bigger, heavier, possibly slower at limbing. Dont get me wrong, I love the little j-red, but not in the same class, in my opinion.


----------



## Okole

Happy, happy, happy!

Cut down one 25ft x 14" coconut, bucked it up into one man sized chunks.
Cut off a 40ft branch off a giant Eucalyptus bucked it up. 

Does just what it says on the box! 
Nice easy cuts through the wet & fibrous coconut.
I did not push it in the coconut, just let the saw go at her own pace. 
And quick work of the Eucalyptus.

She started and idled just right every time.
She did stall 2 times coming out of a cut when quickly releasing high throttle. But feathering the throttle at the end of the cut seemed to stop that. 
Is that a sign of a problem or an incorrect tune?

Aloha!


----------



## CTYank

Modifiedmark said:


> Curious what type of gas your using in your saws, non ethanol or E-10. If E-10 do you have a tester and actually check it once in a while? Do you ever drain the saw and run dry after use?
> 
> I'm just trying to see if I can trace a pattern with these as I know IndianSprings has been on a rampage about the fuel lines on Poulans.
> 
> Myself I have not seen the amount of trouble he has been reporting, yeah I have seen my share of bad line problems (pleanty on other brands also) but nothing consistant yet and not on anything that new yet.
> 
> 
> I just worked on 2 Poulans last weekend, a 2003 PP295 that just was to the point of getting ready to have line failure that I know never gets its E-10 gas drained and is used very little and a 2000 1950 Woodshark that didnt need its orginal lines replaced yet.
> 
> I myself think that the lines lasting 10 years on the 295 is more then good service.
> 
> 
> As for the clutch driven oiler, I suppose that would be nice, but is it really going to be THAT nice? Not nice enough to justify the cost and make a $200 not a $200 saw anymore far as I'm concerned.



I run "reg" E-10, fresh batch at least once/month, stored in sealed container in cool indoor area. Saw gets put away dry. Multiple other OEM Poulan fuel lines cracked apart. NOT this one- it softened at the filter. All the Poulan lines I've had are clear plastic- vinyl? They've all failed. I find it hard to believe that a little corn-likker could attack them more than the much more powerful solvents in gasoling.

The consequences of a bum fuel line would seem to make the added cost of proper materials a no-brainer. Except, of course, to big-box buyer who'll quibble about a nickle.


----------



## joecool85

Okole said:


> Happy, happy, happy!
> She started and idled just right every time.
> She did stall 2 times coming out of a cut when quickly releasing high throttle. But feathering the throttle at the end of the cut seemed to stop that.
> Is that a sign of a problem or an incorrect tune?
> 
> Aloha!



Sounds like the Low speed jet needs to be richened up just a bit. Shouldn't hurt anything the way it is, but it is really annoying. I'd give it a good tuning on the Low speed and idle screws. 

Let us know if you don't know how to do it and we'll walk you through the process.


----------



## GrassGuerilla

Great thread, and thanks to all that have contributed. 29 pages, and nobodys ported one yet?

Sounds like the Poulan engineers did their homework. Budget saw with just enough grunt for general purpose and decent reliability. But with design limitations (aforementioned wee crankshaft) to curtail simple port mods to increase power and embarrass competing cousins. 

I'm guessing this sort of competition has Stihl paying attention. It would make a lot of sense for them to acquire or even create a "partner" brand rather than continuing to cheapen their homeowner saws. 



Hats off to HuskaPoulaJonsCraftMcTd for spotting an apparent gap in a competitive market and filling it without stepping on their own toes.

As to why they use the cheap fuel line:
1) it means they make .50 more on the bottom line of a gazzilion units annually.
2) After delivering several years of decent performance, they hope (know) many will chuck it to the curb when it won't start, and buy a new one. A.K.A. Programmed Obsolence.

We used to have a Dodge truck plant in my home town. I knew a fella that worked in the paint dept. We were talking about what they wanted out of their paint jobs. I assumed his job was improving quality. He almost laughed. Said, they knew how to make paint last 50 years ago. Owners keep 10 year old (read paid for) trucks that look good still. They want the paint to fall off your truck 30 days after you send in the last payment.


----------



## joecool85

GrassGuerilla said:


> ...We used to have a Dodge truck plant in my home town. I knew a fella that worked in the paint dept. We were talking about what they wanted out of their paint jobs. I assumed his job was improving quality. He almost laughed. Said, they knew how to make paint last 50 years ago. Owners keep 10 year old (read paid for) trucks that look good still. They want the paint to fall off your truck 30 days after you send in the last payment.



And that's why the big three have struggled for the last 30 years or so. You can't plan obsolescence as a permanent business model - eventually consumers realize what is going on. The only time it seems to work is electronics (and it shouldn't, but people don't realize how much better things could be).


----------



## importjunk

You can blame the EPA for most of new car paint problems. They can't even get the good stuff anymore.


----------



## LegDeLimber

seems like I recall another thread started on the Poulan port job.
But sounded like some more pressing matters came along.

wondering if anyone here is in a position to look in on them
and see how they're doing.

? maybe tell 'em we missing what they know and would appreciate their input on this little opinion sparker.


----------



## Okole

joecool85 said:


> Sounds like the Low speed jet needs to be richened up just a bit. Shouldn't hurt anything the way it is, but it is really annoying. I'd give it a good tuning on the Low speed and idle screws.
> 
> Let us know if you don't know how to do it and we'll walk you through the process.


Thanks! I am not very familiar with tuning and of course there's nothing in the manual...! 
I understand a special $20 carb tuning tool is needed? Or can I use a normal screwdriver? 
I will have a go this weekend. 

Aloha!


----------



## LegDeLimber

Okole- The mix adj screws are an external splined type 
and have no slot for a standard screwdriver.
You'll need either the "special" tool or take a female spade lug electrical terminal 
sliped onto the end of a a fitting sized , flat screwdriver , 
then, * carefully* , push the plastic part of the wire terminal over the screw head
and then you can *gently* turn/adjust the screws if needed.
Some other ideas include very soft ,small copper tubing
being pushed on the screws or some stiff plastic tubing.


As to the testing and tunning of your saw.
there are some people on here that have posted explanations and some "how to" videos.
Those people and their threds/ vids will far exceed my abilty to type out that part.

i have a bit too much trouble with forgetting to include enough details,
when Im typing vs talking.


----------



## joecool85

LegDeLimber said:


> Okole- The mix adj screws are an external splined type
> and have no slot for a standard screwdriver.
> You'll need either the "special" tool or take a female spade lug electrical terminal
> sliped onto the end of a a fitting sized , flat screwdriver ,
> then, * carefully* , push the plastic part of the wire terminal over the screw head
> and then you can *gently* turn/adjust the screws if needed.
> Some other ideas include very soft ,small copper tubing
> being pushed on the screws or some stiff plastic tubing.
> 
> 
> As to the testing and tunning of your saw.
> there are some people on here that have posted explanations and some "how to" videos.
> Those people and their threds/ vids will far exceed my abilty to type out that part.
> 
> i have a bit too much trouble with forgetting to include enough details,
> when Im typing vs talking.



You can also use a wooden dowel. Using a piece of 1/4" dowel rod, center drill it with a 9/64" drill bit and then gently tap it on the screws. Then tune as normal.

As far as tuning goes I will only focus on Low speed since that's the issue here. First start and warm up the saw, then turn the Low speed jet counter clockwise until the rpms start to drop. Remember this location. Turn the screw in (clockwise) until the rpms drop (they will raise in between). Remember this location. Now, put it roughly half way between those two spots. That's pretty close to perfect, I like to back it just a tad onto the rich side after that (1/16 of a turn or so normally). The saw should sort of "burble". Adjust the idle speed screw (the largest one) to adjust the idle rpm, make sure the chain isn't rotating at idle.

That should do it.

**EDIT**
Honestly you'll probably end up about 1/8 to 1/4 turn richer (counter clockwise) than it came from the factory. If you are nervous about tuning, just start with that and if it runs good call it a day.


----------



## joesmith

LegDeLimber said:


> Okole- The mix adj screws are an external splined type
> and have no slot for a standard screwdriver.
> You'll need either the "special" tool or take a female spade lug electrical terminal
> sliped onto the end of a a fitting sized , flat screwdriver ,
> then, * carefully* , push the plastic part of the wire terminal over the screw head
> and then you can *gently* turn/adjust the screws if needed.
> Some other ideas include very soft ,small copper tubing
> being pushed on the screws or some stiff plastic tubing.
> 
> 
> As to the testing and tunning of your saw.
> there are some people on here that have posted explanations and some "how to" videos.
> Those people and their threds/ vids will far exceed my abilty to type out that part.
> 
> i have a bit too much trouble with forgetting to include enough details,
> when Im typing vs talking.



You know you from norf cakalacky when...


----------



## cmarti

LegDeLimber said:


> seems like I recall another thread started on the Poulan port job.
> But sounded like some more pressing matters came along.
> 
> wondering if anyone here is in a position to look in on them
> and see how they're doing.
> 
> ? maybe tell 'em we missing what they know and would appreciate their input on this little opinion sparker.




Ugh..... Last year I ground/opened a Poulan 4620 exhaust port horizontally (no intake, squish and timing changes as I am not smart enough), and opened up the muffler to match. In my scientific testing, I can confirm I made it louder!:msp_scared: Ummm, I am not sure what else I accomplished, and I never gave a thought to crank shaft and bearing capabilities:msp_blushing:

It was a factory reconditioned for stumps and dirty cutting. Always tinkering with things that burn gas, just starting to play with saws.
It runs well and sounds meaner......but a sharp chain makes a bigger diff in the cuts than my beer drinking, time killing engineering.


----------



## Chris J.

LegDeLimber said:


> seems like I recall another thread started on the Poulan port job.
> But sounded like some more pressing matters came along.
> 
> wondering if anyone here is in a position to look in on them
> and see how they're doing.
> 
> ? maybe tell 'em we missing what they know and would appreciate their input on this little opinion sparker.



I PMd the gent, & he hasn't forgotten about porting the 5020. Sometimes some things take priority over other things.


----------



## LegDeLimber

Finally broke out the yellow special today and shortened a small dry stump for my neighbor.
Probably 12~15 min run time total.

hmm, just going on memory, didn't feel near as snappy on the throttle as my old 2900**.
was feeling a bit migraine type sick, so didn't spend anty time trying to fine tweak the carb.
Muffler is still unmolested too and way more restricted than the 2900.
Seems to oil the chain sufficiently though ( that stock, dog eared depth guide type) 

I've come to decide that I really dislike the feel of these spring loaded recoils pulleys
....Screws up my 40 years of ingrained starting habits.....
Probably look to swap out that pulley or jb it into a solid part.
(anyone happen to know what one piece pulley is a swap out or mild fiddle fit for these saws?)

Need to get into what's left of the woodpile and run it a bit, fine twiddle the carb
and get the muffler squared away.

**I've trimmed about a half a spoonful out of the back of the flywheel on the 2900
and recontoured the trigger (jb weld!) so as to get all the slop out of it.


----------



## joecool85

LegDeLimber said:


> Finally broke out the yellow special today and shortened a small dry stump for my neighbor.
> Probably 12~15 min run time total.
> 
> hmm, just going on memory, didn't feel near as snappy on the throttle as my old 2900**.
> was feeling a bit migraine type sick, so didn't spend anty time trying to fine tweak the carb.
> Muffler is still unmolested too and way more restricted than the 2900.
> Seems to oil the chain sufficiently though ( that stock, dog eared depth guide type)
> 
> I've come to decide that I really dislike the feel of these spring loaded recoils pulleys
> ....Screws up my 40 years of ingrained starting habits.....
> Probably look to swap out that pulley or jb it into a solid part.
> (anyone happen to know what one piece pulley is a swap out or mild fiddle fit for these saws?)
> 
> Need to get into what's left of the woodpile and run it a bit, fine twiddle the carb
> and get the muffler squared away.
> 
> **I've trimmed about a half a spoonful out of the back of the flywheel on the 2900
> and recontoured the trigger (jb weld!) so as to get all the slop out of it.



I like the idea of swapping in a "normal" starter assembly.

When you say you "trimmed about a half a spoonful out of the back of the flywheel" on your 2900, does that mean you actually lightened the flywheel? If so, did you balance it afterwards somehow? Any noticeable gain in performance?


----------



## LegDeLimber

Joecool- Yeah I dremeled out a small area on the back side of the flywheel.
had an extra one of a parts saw, so got bold an went for it.

IF memory servs me correct, The flywheel has a coulpel of areas behind magnet and counterwt.
I trimmed out an area that resemble a good thumbprnt pressed into some mdeling clay
double cut carbid burr left a pile of fine shavings about half a spoon full sized pile.


had no way to check balance othe than how the saw felt in ya hnds afterwards
And letting it sit on a (noisey) metal table before and after the mod, 
to check for any major changes in vibration, while easing up and down thruogh the revs.
Sorry that i don't have a way to compare the weights of the two wheels to give you 
an accuarate idea of how much i took out.

EDIT: just rembered, a small (third cc) inslin syring with barely soaped water, To break the suface tension
Will help to compare the dimple sizes

(need to ask around and see if anyone close by , maybe post office can& would way them
in plastic bag or somthing like that )

What it *will cost* you is, the idle will become more "twitchy", 
you can tell the wheel is getting close to being too light to carry the engine over 
past next compresion stroke and up to the next spark.
You'll need the idle tuned really well and still it will sometimes just not make the rev
and stop, it's not ofetn though and
unless yopu just want a steady iderer, sitting while you move things for next cut
it's not a problem (for me, anyway)
I cut, limb up a area and stop the sawand move brush from old habit, 
so that's not a problem for me.

I wouldn't want to do this on a clmbing mans saw though
Would be to much trouble in a tree.

The throttle lever was just a curve that i didn't like beacause it left a sloppy feel 
to the throttle cable&trigger.
So I built up (jb weld) the area where the cable lays on it and and did some sanding
and regrouve for the cable till I had a sweep in the contour that gave me the trigger
feel that I liked.

if something is half assed in my atempt to explane, post up a question 
and I'll look back when i get in from DRs appt later.
=
May have to break down and see if i can borrow a camera to get some pics up
of some of my poor mans efforts.
Just a little leary of carring for someone elases camera from not knowing how/why i lost mine.

1 more edit: you'll need to allways make a solid commited pull when you carnk it!


----------



## 3000 FPS

LegDeLimber said:


> Joecool- Yeah I dremeled out a small area on the back side of the flywheel.
> had an extra one of a parts saw, so got bold an went for it.
> 
> IF memory servs me correct, The flywheel has a coulpel of areas behind magnet and counterwt.
> I trimmed out an area that resemble a good thumbprnt pressed into some mdeling clay
> double cut carbid burr left a pile of fine shavings about half a spoon full sized pile.
> 
> 
> had no way to check balance othe than how the saw felt in ya hnds afterwards
> And letting it sit on a (noisey) metal table before and after the mod,
> to check for any major changes in vibration, while easing up and down thruogh the revs.
> Sorry that i don't have a way to compare the weights of the two wheels to give you
> an accuarate idea of how much i took out.
> 
> EDIT: just rembered, a small (third cc) inslin syring with barely soaped water, To break the suface tension
> Will help to compare the dimple sizes
> 
> (need to ask around and see if anyone close by , maybe post office can& would way them
> in plastic bag or somthing like that )
> 
> What it *will cost* you is, the idle will become more "twitchy",
> you can tell the wheel is getting close to being too light to carry the engine over
> past next compresion stroke and up to the next spark.
> You'll need the idle tuned really well and still it will sometimes just not make the rev
> and stop, it's not ofetn though and
> unless yopu just want a steady iderer, sitting while you move things for next cut
> it's not a problem (for me, anyway)
> I cut, limb up a area and stop the sawand move brush from old habit,
> so that's not a problem for me.
> 
> I wouldn't want to do this on a clmbing mans saw though
> Would be to much trouble in a tree.
> 
> The throttle lever was just a curve that i didn't like beacause it left a sloppy feel
> to the throttle cable&trigger.
> So I built up (jb weld) the area where the cable lays on it and and did some sanding
> and regrouve for the cable till I had a sweep in the contour that gave me the trigger
> feel that I liked.
> 
> if something is half assed in my atempt to explane, post up a question
> and I'll look back when i get in from DRs appt later.
> =
> May have to break down and see if i can borrow a camera to get some pics up
> of some of my poor mans efforts.
> Just a little leary of carring for someone elases camera from not knowing how/why i lost mine.
> 
> 1 more edit: you'll need to allways make a solid commited pull when you carnk it!




I hate to say it but it almost sounds like more trouble than it is worth for a working saw. 
Did you get any more RPM's out of it? Does the RPM's stay higher in the cut when using it?
I would imagine the engine would rev quicker but other than that what does it do for it?

I am not being critical, just have never done it or read of anyone doing it except you.


----------



## Chris-PA

3000 FPS said:


> I hate to say it but it almost sounds like more trouble than it is worth for a working saw.
> Did you get any more RPM's out of it? Does the RPM's stay higher in the cut when using it?
> I would imagine the engine would rev quicker but other than that what does it do for it?
> 
> I am not being critical, just have never done it or read of anyone doing it except you.


I agree - I also don't really see the benefit. Those flywheels already seem pretty light and with shorter fan fins than say, the Wild Thing flywheel, and my 2775 revs pretty quick. I would actually rather have some flywheel mass.


----------



## LegDeLimber

You guys are are dead on about the lightness of the wheel.
It was to see mainly to see waht it did for the throttle response.

tough to say if it helped the larger cut times, 
but made it sweeter for limbing or dicing up anything under about 3 and half inches.

But as mentioned above it's got its price in needing a higher idle speed.
just barely short of dragging the clutch shoes and being pickier about dialing in the carb.

That occasional stall was rare with mine, but I wanted let anyone know about it
before they consider altering a saw, cause as you guys know,
Just a couple more swipes with the burr could easily be too much.

If not for having an extra flywheel to gamble, I probably wouldn't have risked it.

I did this back before learning about websites like this, If I was doing it now
I'd try to weigh it so that I could post some useful details 
and maybe not such a half assed sounding example, like I have in this case.


----------



## echoshawn

Stumbled upon this site and thread from good ol' google..:msp_thumbup:
Been looking for an affordable backup saw since my old cs-500vl is about done. Would love another new echo, but not in the budget currently, and the woods is a bad place to get caught without a spare.. Love all that I read on here and decided to join.. I think I might be in the beginning stages of CAD... oops
Love my new 600.... 
Great site! I can see many wasted hours on here in my future :msp_razz:


----------



## piroguejoe

New member first post. I just purchased one of these saws last week as my first saw. I have absolutely no experience with a saw but from what I had seen online I decided to go with the poulan 5020. So far I have cut up a 20' section of 17-19" red oak and a complete white oak both of which have been down about a year. I am very pleased with this saw so far. Starts on 2nd or 3rd pull from cold start and once warm it's a one pull type of thing. I plan on upgrading the chain to a lil more aggresive profile but will wear out the stock one first. I guess I just don't know any better but man this thing cuts good for me. With all the wood I've got cut so far and have two more good oaks down at my sisters to cut up I'm givin it a good workout. I could not be any more pleased with my purchase!


----------



## barneyrb

piroguejoe said:


> New member first post. I just purchased one of these saws last week as my first saw. I have absolutely no experience with a saw but from what I had seen online I decided to go with the poulan 5020. So far I have cut up a 20' section of 17-19" red oak and a complete white oak both of which have been down about a year. I am very pleased with this saw so far. Starts on 2nd or 3rd pull from cold start and once warm it's a one pull type of thing. I plan on upgrading the chain to a lil more aggresive profile but will wear out the stock one first. I guess I just don't know any better but man this thing cuts good for me. With all the wood I've got cut so far and have two more good oaks down at my sisters to cut up I'm givin it a good workout. I could not be any more pleased with my purchase!



Joe, the best thing you can do is to always keep the chains sharp and it should last for a while. BTW, what part of North LA are you in as I am in NE LA myself. Welcome to the site.


----------



## piroguejoe

Downsville La right outta farmerville.


----------



## Brian G

*My friend and his son bought 2 4218 av from lowes and both do not run. 2months later*



Modifiedmark said:


> I was thinking about this anyway and was in the store where you "save big money" and stumbled across them walking to the hardware department. They were on sale till the 12th for $179. I didn't even know they carried this model there.
> 
> I was curious to see what these were about and why Poulan/Husqvarna decided to come out with a new and bigger then what they put out in a while 50cc saw.
> 
> Now before I go any farther, all you saw snobs and Poulan haters, read if you want to but I dont want to hear a bunch of BS about Pullons and such. These are low priced consumer saws, no more no less and I just wanted to see what there all about. I doubt if I keep it, I will test it out for a while and then probably move it along but who knows it might be decent and I may keep it around for a while.
> 
> It comes with a decent hard case, manuals and a bottle of Poulan synthetic 2 cycle oil. It also comes with a common K041 mount Oregon laminated 70DL sprocket nosed bar with a Oregon V72 Vanguard chain. Not pro stuff but not bad. The rear handle has a mount to keep the scrench underneath it. It is secured with a metal clip.
> 
> The air filter cover is large and is secured with one thumb screw and lets you get to the filter and plug very easily. The filter is fairly large and pleated and reminds me of the PP 330 style. The only thing that bothers me though is it is only secured at the bottom with a flip up wire clamp. Seems a little loose on the top when secured but a gasket between the filter and base may secure it up some.
> 
> The clutch cover is a metal cover and houses the Husqvarna style chain brake and a conventional front mounted chain adjuster. Not a bad setup. No its not a side adjuster but at least its cover mounted and not hard to get to.
> 
> Pulling all the covers to inspect its innerds only took a T25 torx driver for the recoil cover and a 4mm allan wrench for the top cover.
> 
> The muffler came off with a T27 torx and I was shocked to see a completly hollow tin can, not even a diffuser in it. The top mounted outlet is pretty small in dia though, maybe just a little over 1/2". It should be easy to mod this one.
> 
> It appears to be a chrome bore with a single ring piston.
> 
> The 3/8s sprocket is a spur and the clutch is a common looking Poulan style 2 shoe which appears small but this style has been around for many years with good service on up to 60cc models so the clutch dont concern me at all. I dont know at this point if the spur sprocket is model specific yet but I'm betting it might be the same as some other Poulan Pro models like the 330 and maybe a rim setup will fit it.
> 
> I put the empty power head on the scales right away and found its no super light weight as it tipped the scales at 12lbs 6oz and fully loaded with fuel, oil, bar and chain it was 16lbs 8oz. Again were talking a $200 clamshell, strato, consumer saw so I guess the weight isnt awfull.
> 
> It started right up in 3 pulls but like most strato saws I have run it was plenty cold blooded and took a few seconds to warm up some. I was surprised that the carb settings were pretty much right on it seemed and while I attempted to fool with the L screw I ended up returningt it to about the original position. Now this could change when it sees wood, but after warming it up I held it wide open and it seemed to have a little 4 stroking going on and the tach read 13196 RPM.
> 
> The fit and finish of the plastics seem pretty good with everything lining up well and the parts seemed to fit together pretty well.
> 
> I like the fact that the spring mounted antivibe handles seem to be seperate from the engine cradle and it seemed pretty smooth in my hands. The oil and fuel tanks seemed pretty large and had the nice large caps on them. The controls are the common two lever choke and stop lever kinda combined like the Husky 350 etc...
> 
> Now I'm just relaying my first impressions and am trying to be objective here with it. If I see something bad I will point it out but first impressions are not too bad especially if you keep in mind the original price paid for it.
> 
> I'll post a few pictures of it and will try to get it out to the wood pile soon but that probaly wont happen till the weekend as I dont get home before dark most nights.



They did not take the extended warranty out either.


----------



## Chris-PA

Brian G said:


> My friend and his son bought 2 4218 av from lowes and both do not run. 2months later
> 
> They did not take the extended warranty out either.


Wonder what they did to them? Yes, I'm being a bit of a prick, but there are many possible causes for a saw that does not run, including both defects and operator error - the latter being very common with low end Poulans. There is nothing inherently strange about a Poulan Pro. I've got old cheap Poulan's I run all the time with no issues, and a new PoulanPro pole saw that's box stock and runs like a champ. 

Lastly, this thread was about a different saw - you might want to start another thread about it.


----------



## Modifiedmark

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> Wonder what they did to them? Yes, I'm being a bit of a prick, but there are many possible causes for a saw that does not run, including both defects and operator error - the latter being very common with low end Poulans. There is nothing inherently strange about a Poulan Pro. I've got old cheap Poulan's I run all the time with no issues, and a new PoulanPro pole saw that's box stock and runs like a champ.
> 
> Lastly, this thread was about a different saw - you might want to start another thread about it.



Exactly what I was thinking, what was that post for or even about? For the record, I got a $900 or so six month old Stihl here that wont didnt run either. 

If there only 2 months old, no extended warranty needed either, take em to a Poulan servicing dealer.


----------



## barneyrb

Chris J. said:


> I PMd the gent, & he hasn't forgotten about porting the 5020. Sometimes some things take priority over other things.



I am finally getting to building the 5020 as soon as I get this 064 off my bench (4th time there and none are my fault, can't blame me for a tree falling on it). I have purchased the Heli-Coil kit to repair the stripped spark plug, piston will be leaving here headed towards Indiana for a pop-up, and I should be on it by the end of Feburary. 

I do hope to achieve around 190psi and have a decent runner. More to come just bear with me on this one.

Thanks......


----------



## taskswap

This thread is ripe for hangers-on, so I'll post my experience.

I'm a homeowner not an arborist, but maybe what one might call an "aggressive" homeowner, meaning I heat with wood and cut a lot more than just some storm-damaged limbs. That said, as nice as a Stihl or Husky would be, that's in the future not the present. The math is simple. I burn what I cut and I can get split/seasoned for $175/cord delivered if I time the purchases well. I have to be pretty aggressive on cutting (buying log or cutting on my property) to make the math keep working. Between gas, bar oil, chain maintenance, etc. plus the cost of the saw itself I just can't justify anything else right now.

For <$200 this is a great little saw. It has just enough power "above the line" (50cc? opinions vary) to get me through some challenging cuts like hard, frozen oak - it takes patience but I'm not paid by the hour. And so far it's been pretty reliable - I probably have all of 35 or so hours of run time on it but it's still running like new and plenty of cheap homeowner-specials are dying at around that mark. (Interesting trivia, recently I learned that a lot of small/cheap 2-stroke engines are only rated for 30-40 hours, since for something like a weed whacker or leaf blower that's what a homeowner is likely to do in 3 years or so.)

There are a few spots on the block that seem to get gunked up more than other saws I've run so I'm careful about cleaning it. I haven't changed the air filter yet - in spring I'll see how that goes. And yes, it bogs down in some cuts other saws would tear right through. Fine, I just slow down a bit and ... more firewood. Overall I'm very happy with this saw for the price, and I think even when some day I upgrade I'll keep this as my backup.

Only complaint is the carrying case - it's a little light on "fit and finish" and I struggle to get it closed properly. Most times I don't bother with it.

You know, I don't understand why these lower-end units don't sell with a quart of bar oil. It'd fit in the case pretty nice, would be super cheap for them in their volume, and would be a nice selling factor. They always throw in the premix oil now - why not round out the picture?


----------



## Chris-PA

taskswap said:


> This thread is ripe for hangers-on, so I'll post my experience.
> 
> I'm a homeowner not an arborist, but maybe what one might call an "aggressive" homeowner, meaning I heat with wood and cut a lot more than just some storm-damaged limbs. That said, as nice as a Stihl or Husky would be, that's in the future not the present. The math is simple. I burn what I cut and I can get split/seasoned for $175/cord delivered if I time the purchases well. I have to be pretty aggressive on cutting (buying log or cutting on my property) to make the math keep working. Between gas, bar oil, chain maintenance, etc. plus the cost of the saw itself I just can't justify anything else right now.
> 
> For <$200 this is a great little saw. It has just enough power "above the line" (50cc? opinions vary) to get me through some challenging cuts like hard, frozen oak - it takes patience but I'm not paid by the hour. And so far it's been pretty reliable - I probably have all of 35 or so hours of run time on it but it's still running like new and plenty of cheap homeowner-specials are dying at around that mark. (Interesting trivia, recently I learned that a lot of small/cheap 2-stroke engines are only rated for 30-40 hours, since for something like a weed whacker or leaf blower that's what a homeowner is likely to do in 3 years or so.)
> 
> There are a few spots on the block that seem to get gunked up more than other saws I've run so I'm careful about cleaning it. I haven't changed the air filter yet - in spring I'll see how that goes. And yes, it bogs down in some cuts other saws would tear right through. Fine, I just slow down a bit and ... more firewood. Overall I'm very happy with this saw for the price, and I think even when some day I upgrade I'll keep this as my backup.
> 
> Only complaint is the carrying case - it's a little light on "fit and finish" and I struggle to get it closed properly. Most times I don't bother with it.
> 
> You know, I don't understand why these lower-end units don't sell with a quart of bar oil. It'd fit in the case pretty nice, would be super cheap for them in their volume, and would be a nice selling factor. They always throw in the premix oil now - why not round out the picture?


I believe the hour rating is just the testing category for emissions, not a rating of durability.


----------



## piroguejoe

Put a stihl chisel chain on mine and ditched the old safety chain. Really wakes up the saw! Cut up some more red oak up to a smudge over 20" and saw never skips a beat. Got about 3 chords cut up so far.


----------



## taskswap

piroguejoe said:


> Put a stihl chisel chain on mine and ditched the old safety chain. Really wakes up the saw! Cut up some more red oak up to a smudge over 20" and saw never skips a beat. Got about 3 chords cut up so far.



Maybe I shouldn't complain about speed, then. I'm cutting 26" ash. =D

Can you share which exact chain you went with? Did you use a semi-skip? I'm in the market, as it were. I'll admit that I've never been #1 hand-sharpening. I can manage, but every few times I like to get it done "pro" because no matter what I do I'm always heavy-handed on one side, and after a few sharpening rounds, it ends up pulling to the side. It would be nice to have an extra loop or two handy for those times.


----------



## 7sleeper

taskswap said:


> Maybe I shouldn't complain about speed, then. I'm cutting 26" ash. =D
> 
> Can you share which exact chain you went with? Did you use a semi-skip? I'm in the market, as it were. I'll admit that I've never been #1 hand-sharpening. I can manage, but every few times I like to get it done "pro" because no matter what I do I'm always heavy-handed on one side, and after a few sharpening rounds, it ends up pulling to the side. It would be nice to have an extra loop or two handy for those times.



Get a filling guide like this from Husqvarna

View attachment 274710

View attachment 274709


They have kits with round and flat file (for the rakers). Equal amount of strokes on both sides should get you very close to an excellent result.

You won't need skip chain for that saw. If you have the original 20 inch bar on it regular semi chisel or full chisel is totally ok. Just let the saw do the cutting, no reason to be pushy! I like the Stihl stuff but Oregon is also ok. You don't sound very experienced so I would stay with the safety stuff for a while. Equaly I believe that you will be more happy at the moment with the semi chisel chain because it is easier to file by hand with a file guide like above and it is a little less prone to damage after unintended contact with non wood material. 

7


----------



## piroguejoe

I went with the full chisel stihl. Not sure the series. Guy had to make it for me so was in a plain stihl box. There is a definite difference in cutting but I don't lean on her hard either I just let her eat. Also I have the husqvarna file guide kit as well. Haven't had to use it yet but seems simple enough.


----------



## piroguejoe

Can get a pic if it'll help


----------



## 7sleeper

piroguejoe said:


> Can get a pic if it'll help



pics always help 

7


----------



## piroguejoe

View attachment 274721
View attachment 274722


Sorry for crappy cell pics.


----------



## Modifiedmark

taskswap said:


> This thread is ripe for hangers-on, so I'll post my experience.
> 
> I'm a homeowner not an arborist, but maybe what one might call an "aggressive" homeowner, meaning I heat with wood and cut a lot more than just some storm-damaged limbs. That said, as nice as a Stihl or Husky would be, that's in the future not the present. The math is simple. I burn what I cut and I can get split/seasoned for $175/cord delivered if I time the purchases well. I have to be pretty aggressive on cutting (buying log or cutting on my property) to make the math keep working. Between gas, bar oil, chain maintenance, etc. plus the cost of the saw itself I just can't justify anything else right now.
> 
> For <$200 this is a great little saw. It has just enough power "above the line" (50cc? opinions vary) to get me through some challenging cuts like hard, frozen oak - it takes patience but I'm not paid by the hour. And so far it's been pretty reliable - I probably have all of 35 or so hours of run time on it but it's still running like new and plenty of cheap homeowner-specials are dying at around that mark. (Interesting trivia, recently I learned that a lot of small/cheap 2-stroke engines are only rated for 30-40 hours, since for something like a weed whacker or leaf blower that's what a homeowner is likely to do in 3 years or so.)
> 
> There are a few spots on the block that seem to get gunked up more than other saws I've run so I'm careful about cleaning it. I haven't changed the air filter yet - in spring I'll see how that goes. And yes, it bogs down in some cuts other saws would tear right through. Fine, I just slow down a bit and ... more firewood. Overall I'm very happy with this saw for the price, and I think even when some day I upgrade I'll keep this as my backup.
> 
> Only complaint is the carrying case - it's a little light on "fit and finish" and I struggle to get it closed properly. Most times I don't bother with it.
> 
> You know, I don't understand why these lower-end units don't sell with a quart of bar oil. It'd fit in the case pretty nice, would be super cheap for them in their volume, and would be a nice selling factor. They always throw in the premix oil now - why not round out the picture?



Sounds like your giving it all it was intended for and then some, glad to hear your doing ok with it. 

Now for not giving away bar oil with it?  Seems there giving you a pretty decent saw for $199 plus a case, you really think you need bar oil with it as well?? :msp_rolleyes:


----------



## taskswap

No, that's great, thanks for posting. Looks like full comp.


----------



## Modifiedmark

taskswap said:


> No, that's great, thanks for posting. Looks like full comp.



Full comp and it looks to be semi chisel and would be a good all around chain. The Oregon equivelant would be 72DP and is quite good as well.


----------



## taskswap

Modifiedmark said:


> Sounds like your giving it all it was intended for and then some, glad to hear your doing ok with it.
> 
> Now for not giving away bar oil with it?  Seems there giving you a pretty decent saw for $199 plus a case, you really think you need bar oil with it as well?? :msp_rolleyes:



Yeah, I think I'm the target user for this thing.

I'm not whining about the oil - I buy the stuff by the gallon. I was just musing on sales tactics. Seems like it'd be a good move business-wise, wouldn't it?


----------



## Modifiedmark

taskswap said:


> Yeah, I think I'm the target user for this thing.
> 
> I'm not whining about the oil - I buy the stuff by the gallon. I was just musing on sales tactics. Seems like it'd be a good move business-wise, wouldn't it?



Oh I dont know, you bought it without the bar oil didnt you? :msp_biggrin:


----------



## taskswap

Modifiedmark said:


> Oh I dont know, you bought it without the bar oil didnt you? :msp_biggrin:



On the strength of a very well written and detailed review, I might add.

Actually, I did one better. I got Secret Santa to buy it for me. It was pretty obvious which box was mine.


----------



## joecool85

taskswap said:


> On the strength of a very well written and detailed review, I might add.
> 
> Actually, I did one better. I got Secret Santa to buy it for me. It was pretty obvious which box was mine.



Now I know how to get mine...


----------



## LegDeLimber

Sorry that this is a bit rambly, 
but I want to post the good and bad moments of my usage and *errors* with the saw.

neighbors had dropped some trees and weren't keeping the wood.
So I got a chance to run a bit less than 2 tanks of gas through the 5020.
Saw is still stock.
planning to do the muf mod after a few more cuts with stock type of chain in undamaged condition
so that I can get an idea of what differences each thing that is changed makes. 

Saw has less than 3 tanks tankfuls total run time.
Leaned out the low side bout 1/8 turn and fattened the top a pinch (WOT, no load) 
to get the balance back.
**Was mostly just getting the limbs (oak) 5" or less, so tough get a decent plug reading
lot of blip, blip, blip type throttle usage.

Red stripe on plug is facing the carb and black stripe is the exhaust.
plug ceramic has a "stained" black look, not lose soot or wet on carb side and is whiter on ex side.
running Echo powerblend, at a bit over 3 oz to gal for now.
will be trying Stihl ultra (40-1[?]) when Echo oil is used up.
I'm down to using an old web cam without the proper drivers, so pardon the really,really bad pics.

**looks like I shoulda bought the rescue chain option, huh.
nicked the driveway concrete and got about half the cutters and mostly on that side the chain.
..really wasn't too impressed with the chain before I dulled it
quick filled a bit of the worst chain damage and went back at things
(guys were cutting and piling things in a hustle, so I sorta needed to get back cutting in a hurry)

..next day, I grabbed a loop of Stihl 33rs72 and 2 pairs of presets ($28,local dealer) That will go on
the 5020 after a cleanup, look over and prolly a couple links out of the new chain.

Wouldn't normally cut stuff in that bad of a setup, but was having to work around the guys
dropping the trees, opinion of things.
should of seen the "face cut" a wedge of about 30 deg and roughly 1/3 dia of tree, 
with a nice 45 deg down into it, for the back cut.
trees would fall about 30 odd degrees and hold 
till the guy in the van (on the rope) punched it.
"Climber" had no spurs and would use a 40' ladder to get into the limbs,
then tie in (had a harness of some sort ) and then "groundie" would take away the ladder
and then the climber would go to work.

The guy seemed be very mindful of power lines and ground targets though.

Wasn't my project and was a bit of language barrier, 
so didn't get a chance to discuss falling techniques with the guy.


----------



## hunter h

Modifiedmark said:


> I was thinking about this anyway and was in the store where you "save big money" and stumbled across them walking to the hardware department. They were on sale till the 12th for $179. I didn't even know they carried this model there.
> 
> I was curious to see what these were about and why Poulan/Husqvarna decided to come out with a new and bigger then what they put out in a while 50cc saw.
> 
> Now before I go any farther, all you saw snobs and Poulan haters, read if you want to but I dont want to hear a bunch of BS about Pullons and such. These are low priced consumer saws, no more no less and I just wanted to see what there all about. I doubt if I keep it, I will test it out for a while and then probably move it along but who knows it might be decent and I may keep it around for a while.
> 
> It comes with a decent hard case, manuals and a bottle of Poulan synthetic 2 cycle oil. It also comes with a common K041 mount Oregon laminated 70DL sprocket nosed bar with a Oregon V72 Vanguard chain. Not pro stuff but not bad. The rear handle has a mount to keep the scrench underneath it. It is secured with a metal clip.
> 
> The air filter cover is large and is secured with one thumb screw and lets you get to the filter and plug very easily. The filter is fairly large and pleated and reminds me of the PP 330 style. The only thing that bothers me though is it is only secured at the bottom with a flip up wire clamp. Seems a little loose on the top when secured but a gasket between the filter and base may secure it up some.
> 
> The clutch cover is a metal cover and houses the Husqvarna style chain brake and a conventional front mounted chain adjuster. Not a bad setup. No its not a side adjuster but at least its cover mounted and not hard to get to.
> 
> Pulling all the covers to inspect its innerds only took a T25 torx driver for the recoil cover and a 4mm allan wrench for the top cover.
> 
> The muffler came off with a T27 torx and I was shocked to see a completly hollow tin can, not even a diffuser in it. The top mounted outlet is pretty small in dia though, maybe just a little over 1/2". It should be easy to mod this one.
> 
> It appears to be a chrome bore with a single ring piston.
> 
> The 3/8s sprocket is a spur and the clutch is a common looking Poulan style 2 shoe which appears small but this style has been around for many years with good service on up to 60cc models so the clutch dont concern me at all. I dont know at this point if the spur sprocket is model specific yet but I'm betting it might be the same as some other Poulan Pro models like the 330 and maybe a rim setup will fit it.
> 
> I put the empty power head on the scales right away and found its no super light weight as it tipped the scales at 12lbs 6oz and fully loaded with fuel, oil, bar and chain it was 16lbs 8oz. Again were talking a $200 clamshell, strato, consumer saw so I guess the weight isnt awfull.
> 
> It started right up in 3 pulls but like most strato saws I have run it was plenty cold blooded and took a few seconds to warm up some. I was surprised that the carb settings were pretty much right on it seemed and while I attempted to fool with the L screw I ended up returningt it to about the original position. Now this could change when it sees wood, but after warming it up I held it wide open and it seemed to have a little 4 stroking going on and the tach read 13196 RPM.
> 
> The fit and finish of the plastics seem pretty good with everything lining up well and the parts seemed to fit together pretty well.
> 
> I like the fact that the spring mounted antivibe handles seem to be seperate from the engine cradle and it seemed pretty smooth in my hands. The oil and fuel tanks seemed pretty large and had the nice large caps on them. The controls are the common two lever choke and stop lever kinda combined like the Husky 350 etc...
> 
> Now I'm just relaying my first impressions and am trying to be objective here with it. If I see something bad I will point it out but first impressions are not too bad especially if you keep in mind the original price paid for it.
> 
> I'll post a few pictures of it and will try to get it out to the wood pile soon but that probaly wont happen till the weekend as I dont get home before dark most nights.



Mark
I am glad you started this thred. I am thinking of now buying one. This will be the only other saw that I have bought new the other was a 295. All the others are all older poulans not that there is any thing wrong with that. It would be nice to have a good mid size go to saw and give the others some rest.


----------



## LegDeLimber

finally got to run the 5020 some over last couple of days.
have a bit shy of 2 gallons through it now. 
Exact tank count gets lost
as I tend to top off, each time I make a series of bucking cuts,
before rolling the log and finishing it.
Don't wanna starve/lean out in mid cut of the heavy stuff!!

[ haven't shortened the Stihl loop yet, it's couple links too long]
Slowly got that "driveway treated" chain filled back into a worker now.
still running one of the stock D70 Oregon with those dog eared guides.
The depth guides needed a little massaging on their overall exact shape and I'm a tad low on them
as I like a just slightly aggressive chain and keep a light pressure on the bar 
and let the motor sing from it's sweet spot.
..aiming for Just shy of "porpoising"/hammering the cutters and bar but not bogging it either. 
But ya gotta be a little fussy about watching the chain tension for that to work.

Oiler could use a boost for the bucking, it's fine for short bursts 
in the 6~7" & under stuff, but gets dry in the bigger things.
whilst bucking the trunk, I would intermittently unload the bar a second or 3, to let it re-oil.
We Don't like burnt and bured bars & chains, do we?
[ anyone have bright ideas for helping/modding the oiler, or a swap from some other saw?? )

Fuel economy seems good. needed to tweak carb some more.
[ believe I ended up at about 3 3/4+ turns out on high & 1 7/8 on low side. ]
...as the saw loosened up and I learned a better feel for tunning to the strato characteristics.
She'll get rich in the mid rev range (and soot up a plug) then gets right on that light "4 stroke"
as the air valve opens at top throttle and gets the mix back in balance.
Then the exhaust note just does clean up when most of the bar is catching the wood.

My initial wonderings about throttle response (and that flywheel lightening post), etc 
are much allayed now.
bucking some 25~28" trunk sections and pulling the whole twenty pretty decent, 
for what the saw is, I thought.
Had to watch out for cuttings trying to pack up at clutch cover area on those 
on the dog sweeper cuts (learning to get technique back) 
[ Unfortunately doesn't look like one of Bsnellings noodling vids, by any means though....dangit! ]

Saw is still in stock form, no muf mod yet. 
I just want to make sure it doesn't seem likely to be going back for an early warranty,
before I alter it. 
plus I was hoping to get vid of stock condition saw, to compare with later conditions.

I'll get some compression numbers, first chance I can. 
Gauge seems off, But I found proper type valve cores at NAPA 
so I put it together again and it's "run what ya got" time.
but for now I'll just assume it can give some (self ?) comparative readings at least.

+ + +
..finally grabbed a camera from C'list today,
so should be able to start getting some pics of things.
So, I'll prolly need someone to help me (finally) get a you-tube acct
....aaannnd how recode things 
and then upload them in a way that dosen't look or sound like crap.

Also, just felt that I Had to step in today
and stop that guy from doing another 30 deg face cut today.
near dead/dry tree, had a lean/balance that would have twist/rolled off when 
it snapped at half fall and taken out the Neighbors fence.
I think he saw a little bit of what I was trying to explain though.
grabbed his bar and cleaned it out and quick dressed of burrs for him too.
(two different first tongues, so can sometimes be tricky to convey details to each other..)


----------



## roostersgt

Not really doubting you. but you're bucking up 25" - 28" wood with that saw? Even soft woods of that diameter seems incredulous, especially for that cc of a dime store saw.


----------



## LegDeLimber

Was in some still green, fresh dropped wood, no dirt on or in it, so not to tough for cutting.
Just the stock bar and feeding it easy, let the motor revs tell me how much to feed it.

I'm Not calling it fast by any comparison to the *serious* saws around here at all.
...just liked the Snelling noodle vids, so that was a (hopefuly) semi comical reference .

I'll try to get some vid when I get the latest camera out to practice with it.
Then I hope any and all of you guys can take a look and give a true consensus on 
what the little ( short bus yellow) saw can or can't do.
Considering it's intended price point, market and usage and life expectancy.

and feed back does help to keep me thinking and maybe write a bit clearer in time.

hmm, "Short bus saw" might become the name, just because of this owner!
=
gotta get a couple hours sleep soon and have friend to help move to new house this week,
So may be next week before I get back to fooling with the yellow toy.


----------



## rms61moparman

Your posts are just reaffirming what I've been thinking about this little saw..........................Great saw FOR THE PRICEPOINT.
Seems like it would serve Joe Homeowner very well, as long as he took the necessary steps to avoid fuel issues.


Mike


----------



## rjh245

Do you think running a skip tooth chain on this saw would help? I am thinking that 50cc is a small engine for a 3/8 chain on a 20 inch bar. But if you would run a skip chain it would cut slower but require less power. Any thoughts?


----------



## Chris-PA

roostersgt said:


> Not really doubting you. but you're bucking up 25" - 28" wood with that saw? Even soft woods of that diameter seems incredulous, especially for that cc of a dime store saw.


See, that is part of the distorted view that gets created here - that you need some high end big cc saw for stuff like this. I've cut lots of hardwood that size with a 42cc 18" saw, or a 46cc 20" saw, both plastic Poulans. It's not even a big deal, it's easy. I have a saw with a 24" bar now and that does make it a bit faster, but in the big scheme of things it makes little difference, as most of the time and effort is spent splitting, hauling, stacking and cleaning up the mess. Saw time is a minor percentage. 

Like this:


----------



## rms61moparman

rjh245 said:


> Do you think running a skip tooth chain on this saw would help? I am thinking that 50cc is a small engine for a 3/8 chain on a 20 inch bar. But if you would run a skip chain it would cut slower but require less power. Any thoughts?




I would make sure there is a problem before I spent money on a remedy.
If you are replacing the chain you have on it and want to stay with the 20" bar, then yes, a skip tooth chain would probably work well for you.
I don't care for skip in the smaller stuff because it is a lot more choppy and grabby.
You really won't notice that much difference in the cut speed because the engine will be able to pull it faster.


Mike


----------



## CTYank

roostersgt said:


> Not really doubting you. but you're bucking up 25" - 28" wood with that saw? Even soft woods of that diameter seems incredulous, especially for that cc of a dime store saw.



Had the chance to run one? Might alter your preconceptions some. I've had one for about a year, maybe 15 tanks through it so far. Still slowly loosening up.

Multiple times I've had the 20" bar buried in oak. Just sings and spits chips. Not bad for $180 saw- I could see how you'd question its alleged price/performance, stabling all those stihls.

Oh, a _person _might be called "incredulous" meaning "unwilling to admit or accept what is offered as true." "Incredible" might be yer intent, but no, it's not at all incredible here, and it's not a "dime store saw."


----------



## piroguejoe

View attachment 277421

22-23"
View attachment 277422

Haven't taped it yet but some of that stuff is purty big.

Some of the cuts on the big stuff are ugly but I'm gettin better. Lil 5020 just keeps on hummin. Those biggest peices are Hard!! Not sure on the species but they been seasoning for a while! Glad there's a couple young bucks around the house to split it. Not bad for a $200 saw! Was gonna make a video but thought my battery would run down cuttin one of the big ones.


----------



## Stihl slinger

Very impressed with the saw for the money the first saw i ever baught was a poulan pro with a 
16" bar about 10 to 11 years ago my father now has the saw and it has never failed to start, very dependable, and always done what i needed to do but its a small tree/brush saw. 

Tim


----------



## Jlhotstick3

Nice review mark, it's nice to see reviews like this !!


----------



## Vibes

piroguejoe said:


> View attachment 277421
> 
> 22-23"
> View attachment 277422
> 
> Haven't taped it yet but some of that stuff is purty big.
> 
> Some of the cuts on the big stuff are ugly but I'm gettin better. Lil 5020 just keeps on hummin. Those biggest peices are Hard!! Not sure on the species but they been seasoning for a while! Glad there's a couple young bucks around the house to split it. Not bad for a $200 saw! Was gonna make a video but thought my battery would run down cuttin one of the big ones.



Not sure what grows down your way but that looks like a maple of some kind. Reguardless though. A sharp chain on any size bar will do a lot of cuttin on any size saw. Very nice work!!!!


----------



## sunfish

roostersgt said:


> Not really doubting you. but you're bucking up 25" - 28" wood with that saw? Even soft woods of that diameter seems incredulous, especially for that cc of a dime store saw.



We tend to get caught up in the 70cc needed for wood over 20" thing here on this site. But in the real world there is a bunch of wood cut with 50cc and smaller saws. :msp_wink:


----------



## joecool85

sunfish said:


> We tend to get caught up in the 70cc needed for wood over 20" thing here on this site. But in the real world there is a bunch of wood cut with 50cc and smaller saws. :msp_wink:



It's true. I've been finding myself cutting more and more with my 339XP because it's so easy to use, light and fast. So unless I need the bar buried (12+ inches), I just used that.


----------



## sunfish

I've cut a fair bit of 30"+ wood with the OE 346 (45cc) and it cut it just fine!


----------



## piroguejoe

Vibes said:


> Not sure what grows down your way but that looks like a maple of some kind. Reguardless though. A sharp chain on any size bar will do a lot of cuttin on any size saw. Very nice work!!!!



Not sure about having maple here. But I'm about positive it's pecan. Ill get some better pics in a bit. How does pecan rank for burning and hardness? I know it's awesome for BBQ cookin.


----------



## rms61moparman

A train car wouldn't hold what firewood I've cut with my lowly Makita DCS 401.
39cc and big brass balls!!!


Mike


----------



## CTYank

piroguejoe said:


> Not sure about having maple here. But I'm about positive it's pecan. Ill get some better pics in a bit. How does pecan rank for burning and hardness? I know it's awesome for BBQ cookin.



Pecan is "first cousin" to hickories. Never had the pleasure, but I understand it's very much like them. Many of us love hickory around here.


----------



## piroguejoe

View attachment 277529

View attachment 277531

Taped biggest peice at 32" widest point. After lookin at some pics online I'm not so sure about pecan. Any help on an ID is much appreciated. Very hard to split! Gonna notch and try and if not maybe noodle. This firewood thing is a lot like work. Gonna get this big boy in shape if I ain't careful.


----------



## zogger

piroguejoe said:


> View attachment 277529
> 
> View attachment 277531
> 
> Taped biggest peice at 32" widest point. After lookin at some pics online I'm not so sure about pecan. Any help on an ID is much appreciated. Very hard to split! Gonna notch and try and if not maybe noodle. This firewood thing is a lot like work. Gonna get this big boy in shape if I ain't careful.




Go in an inch or so from the bark and slab off chunks. The rest of it will split MUCH easier. Im going through a big pile of shagbark right now, man it makes it easier, plus it will dry better. Both the slabs with the bark on will dry faster and no bugs then, wicked fast hot morning fires on top of some small kindling and twigs and coals, and the let over pure wood splits are *really nice* heating or cooking.

Hickory and oak are around 28 million BTU/cord, pecan is right below those at 26, its good wood.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Glad to see guys keep adding to this thread with there experiances with the 5020's. 

Sounds like mostly good reviews, just like I figured there would be. Some guys are really putting them to the test as well.


----------



## LegDeLimber

shot a few practice pics with the (new to me) p&s today.
Critique is welcomed, as it should help me to polish up 
on my photo composition and accuracy of descriptions. 
I left these large so that anyone could zoom in
and catch my goof ups or see details.
Camera is a 5 megpixel, Panasonic dmc-lz3.

This is probably 2/3 of the wood from the trees.
kinda nice that a neighbor offered to help move it.
Even had a couple of other neighbors boys (prob 9~10 yrs old)
come rolling a wheelbarrow down with a few chunks that that they loaded.
"We brought you some wood, Sir"

..hmm, Amazing how that little 4-wheeler just happened to be thirsty
for a dose of this non-ethanol gas.
y'all reckon them young-uns was just plain old, outright deliberately trying ta butter me up?

#"Cookie dough"
is a one of the stubs (red circled) from where I was tweaking the carb
and getting the chain filed back to working condition.
also gives y'all a little look at how the chain is flowing in the wood.
chain has been sharpened a few times more since that pic though.
Also some of the first wood rolled in and under the "tape of truth!"
..still need to get the largest sections rolled home
and see how far I mighta miss-guessed the diam.
#"Cookie dust" 
just to show a bit of how it's cutting.
..later remembered (after dark) that I should have sprinkled a pinch
on the tape case to better show the chips.
#"Dried out OAKmeal cookies"
(Red lined) to see Just how quickly these warm days and cool nights
will dry out and warp up the wood (3 days)
already some splits over an inch wide, at bark line, in the others.
#"Stretchin tha numbers"
just a crotch shot (what red blooded man don't like one?)
lined up the tape with the cut orientation.
wood was laying flat on ground, so i cut it from that direction
and was a chance to sink the full bar in and see what she's got.
#"Wood family pic"
stuff on left is how I'm hacking it up. Small and easier to handle.
Stack of some OAKmeal cookies in red outline.
Blue circled and any angled or other longer cut stuff is 
what tree man had cut before I got properly underfoot.

I'll try to get some more pics and try to catch video to save for posting 
When I learn how to get it formatted and to upload it.
..and some freshly acquired editing skills would likely be appreciated 
by all viewers too, I'd wager!

If it would be better for me to post these type of pics in some other location
and just link them here, Someone let me know please.


----------



## LegDeLimber

Snagged a few more frames tonight.
Apologies for going astray of the original topic, with my posts.
afraid i just like a full story a bit too much.

Got some pics to show what the "Short bus saw" was up to.
..almost waited too late to get any pics before it was split up and moved.

Seems that cutting it into manageable chunks made it useful to at least one guy.
These guys give me a hand anytime I ask, so I'm happy to see any of them
able to get something to burn.
I'd guess that sometimes we forget and take for granted, knowing *anything* at all
about motors or a saw and having one at our disposal.

First 3 pics are just some "tape of truth" shots.
The stump & butt ends are the tree mans cuts.
I stayed in the main trunk and limbs when cutting.

Fourth frame is of one of those 2 young men who brought that load of wood, when that 4-wheeler tank was dry.
.. there was another neighbor watching over and attempting to explain wood grain to him
while he tried out a hatchet on a bit of wood.

And one last one to show a little of the scene of tree killin' 
and a bit of the wood burning ethos being passed to the next generation (hopefully).


----------



## LegDeLimber

just a few pics and descriptions.
I'll try to get a proper update posted when the body parts quit protesting.

If you're bored, You can read this thread http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/220425-2.htm for some of the aches & pains that a lot of us seem to share.
=
I said that I'd post my errors.
so I'll start the pics with one.

Dug down to the butt end of the largest trunk.
Looks to be a bit shy of that 25~28" estimate.
you'd think that with a known length bar in my hands 
that I'd have been a bit closer on that guess.
(well dang, can I claim the 3 limbed crotch cuts, for larger sections?)
Anyway, I'll still claim it as a full bar cut in the middle of the wood.
=
Gummy looking spark plug pic.
Was dicing up the last of the short and small stuff, so lots of that 
take it easy, 1/2~3/4 throttle stuff.

I just don't like a screaming chain when cutting up the little snaggy, flippy, rolly stuff.
For me at least, high revs tend to derail harsher in that mess 
and beat the chit out of the drive links and sprockets
when I'm in that mess.

I normally try to cut and drop things to desired length when limbing up,
But I didn't get to do the limbing on this wood. 

Left the carb settings as I had it for the big cuts, so as a result 
when strato plate's not open, she'll load up.
I want to get a vid of it in the trunk wood before I retune.
Red mark is facing the carb when the plug is seated.
interesting how that wash pattern looks.
=
The chain shots show the worst looking tooth on that chain that 
I nicked the concrete with.
Just kept the file handy and touched up on it regularly.

While keeping the revs up and not pushing the chain or motor,
It cut surprisingly strait as you can see from the pics.
I figure that ding in the drive link was from derailing it in the brush pile.

After the last heavy filing, I had the left-right cutters pretty imbalanced
and It started to cut a curve ( bout a heavy kerf width in apprx 10" cut) 
and you can possibly see the drives were showing the side loading.

That chain will get an evening up of the cutters and
be designated for dirty work.


----------



## dswensen

LegDeLimber said:


> It cut surprisingly strait as you can see from the pics.



I'm more than a little impressed that you can come at that cut from both sides and finish with a cut face that is that clean. Well done sir.


----------



## LegDeLimber

I need to get a video and review what I'm doing during the cut**
=
...seems like I started at the top in a typical cookie type cut position
and then swept the bar to pointing down , then pulled the saw back and dropped on down 
till it was close to the dirt.
then went to other side of the log and followed the kerf to get the other side cut down low also.
once all the cuts were made like that, I rolled it and picked up the cut with either
the nose or tail of the bar and just sorta swept it through, to get the last couple inches of diameter.
=

** trying to get a youtube account set up, 
but seems like it won't work with the spy ware (doubleclick, facebook, etc) blocked.
If I can find a site to post video, without just totally prostrating my PC for it 
I'll see what I can shoot and show.

I've been taking a much stronger stance towards not letting every bit of java or unidentified
garbage run from most web sites and it's almost stopped the infection problem.
So I'm not too keen on letting the damn things run just to post a video.


----------



## piroguejoe

I have a couple questions. First which carburetor tool is required for the adjustment? Don't need one yet just would like to have it just in case. Lookin on eBay and see splined, single d, pacman etc. from what I can see looks splined.

Secondly has anyone ran skip chain yet on one of these? Thinkin about tryin one out.


----------



## LegDeLimber

Splined tool. If I'm reading the numbers correctly,
looks to be "Poulan 530035560"

I have no first hand experience with the skip chain,
but suspect it would be grabby in the small stuff.
Maybe someone who runs it, will chime in.


----------



## rms61moparman

piroguejoe said:


> I have a couple questions. First which carburetor tool is required for the adjustment? Don't need one yet just would like to have it just in case. Lookin on eBay and see splined, single d, pacman etc. from what I can see looks splined.
> 
> Secondly has anyone ran skip chain yet on one of these? Thinkin about tryin one out.




Heck, go ahead and try it.
It will be a lot cheaper experiment than several I've done.
If you are cutting mostly bigger stuff, I'm sure it will work out okay.

As LDL said above, I've found it to be grabby and vibrate more in the smaller stuff.
That only means you have to make sure to have it spinning good before starting a cut.


Mike


----------



## piroguejoe

Thanks!!!
Yeah I'm thinkin it'll pull better in the big stuff. Gonna try it out!! Ill be sure and post my results.


----------



## tomandjerry00

*Bought One*

I drank the punch and bought one these guys  Seems like a serious machine! Doesn't compare to the other "big box" saws.

I also found a bunch of nice, straight oak about a quarter mile from my house and my mom has been asking for a 6' fence for her place. I'm thinking about buying a mini mill and cutting a bunch of board with it....

I know it sounds crazy and I am really pushing the limits with the saw, but I really want to try it...

Thoughts and/or recs on a chain/mill?


----------



## Modifiedmark

Well, I dont claim to have a inside track into the minds at Husqvarna/Poulan but I just have to say I dont think they were thinking of building that saw to be a milling saw. Thats just me though......


----------



## Chris-PA

Yeah, I'd like to have a 5020, but if I think of milling saw that's just not what comes to mind. It does have an outboard clutch and a metal cover, so maybe that helps with heat.


----------



## pennsywoodburnr

Hey ModifiedMark, I just scooped up one of these the other day and like it a lot so far! There was some oak available for scrounging down the road from me and decided to put it to the test. While it didn't exactly pull with authority going through it, it was still far more than I was expecting out of this saw. I bought it because like a lot of other guys on here, it'll be a firewood saw. Don't have a lot of money to spend because I'm the only one working while the wife stays at home with the little guy (just turned 2 early Feb.). So anything pricier than the $200 I paid for it, was out of the question. I'm curious to see how many other long term users there are that have these and how they worked out for them. My other saw is a Poulan 4218 that I scooped up from Walmart years back (back when they had the burgundy plastic) and is still going strong too!


----------



## LegDeLimber

Even if milling didn't cook the motor, the non-adjustable oiler 
won't deliver enough for the job.
I was backing off a bit in mid cuts when bucking 
some 24" fresh dropped green oak.

page 33, covers my adventures (to date) with the 5020


----------



## Justsaws

tomandjerry00 said:


> I drank the punch and bought one these guys  Seems like a serious machine! Doesn't compare to the other "big box" saws.
> 
> I also found a bunch of nice, straight oak about a quarter mile from my house and my mom has been asking for a 6' fence for her place. I'm thinking about buying a mini mill and cutting a bunch of board with it....
> 
> I know it sounds crazy and I am really pushing the limits with the saw, but I really want to try it...
> 
> Thoughts and/or recs on a chain/mill?



How much fencing? Milling a bunch of boards with that saw would be optimistic by my definition of the word "bunch". 

A person can mill with pretty much any chainsaw. The difference is productivity and equipment longevity. I have used 45-50cc saws on a 12" mill and they work, they will get the job done. In terms of how long the saw lasts, that is largely up to the operator and the chain sharping skills. There is less margin for error on small saws running small chains than there is on big saws. There is also the issue of parts fatigue, inexpensive saws are inexpensive for a reason. The clutch for that saw will be cheaper than the clutch for a Stihl 660. Probably buy the whole Poulan or get real close for the price of the 660 clutch, drum and oil gear from Stihl. Parts that will fail fast will be the bar, clutch, sprocket and oiler. Get some parts prices and include that information in your descision. Chains are quickly consumed when maxing out a small saw while milling. If you are breaking AV mounts stop pushing on the saw, push on the mill. 

Check the fastners OFTEN. 

Adding that most newer saws lack a comfortable amount of oiling capability for milling. Drip oilers are the cheap easy fix. 

That being said, you can probably buy 4 of those saws news before you are getting close to a new long term milling saw. If you have lots of time to kill, go nuts.

Adding that milling chains usually have a +/-10 degree top plate angle. Try your saw first with just a normal chainsaw chain. The 30-35 degree top plate angle will cut faster but get dull faster and the surface texture of the boards may be rougher than with milling chain. Sharp chain, check the bar for the rails getting pushed out often.


----------



## Justsaws

Modifiedmark said:


> Well, I dont claim to have a inside track into the minds at Husqvarna/Poulan but I just have to say I dont think they were thinking of building that saw to be a milling saw. Thats just me though......



Probably not, but if it is what you got.....

They best not complain when breaks though.


----------



## Modifiedmark

The oiler is the least of my worries for this saw no matter what its used for. The one I had here would put out enough oil to oil two bars.


----------



## Modifiedmark

pennsywoodburnr said:


> Hey ModifiedMark, I just scooped up one of these the other day and like it a lot so far! There was some oak available for scrounging down the road from me and decided to put it to the test. While it didn't exactly pull with authority going through it, it was still far more than I was expecting out of this saw. I bought it because like a lot of other guys on here, it'll be a firewood saw. Don't have a lot of money to spend because I'm the only one working while the wife stays at home with the little guy (just turned 2 early Feb.). So anything pricier than the $200 I paid for it, was out of the question. I'm curious to see how many other long term users there are that have these and how they worked out for them. My other saw is a Poulan 4218 that I scooped up from Walmart years back (back when they had the burgundy plastic) and is still going strong too!



Sounds like you knew what to expect from it so I'm pretty sure it will do you just fine as you sound like its targeted user.


----------



## pennsywoodburnr

Modifiedmark said:


> Sounds like you knew what to expect from it so I'm pretty sure it will do you just fine as you sound like its targeted user.



Definitely. I have a feeling it'll last me a long while too. If you want to see some of the oak I cut up with it, I posted some pictures in the firewood and heating forum under the thread title "oak firewood mini score". It should be on the 1st or 2nd page. Thanks again for the review. That was the primary reason I went with this saw.


----------



## tmanmi

Amazon has them for $165.71 right now and I don't see anything out them being refurb's.


----------



## tomandjerry00

*Thanks and chain rec?*

Thanks for all the help, especially the milling thoughts. I really appreciate it! 

I have about 70 ft of fence to build, but I can't start building until April so plenty of time to mill.

Gonna try the saw for a week or two on the smaller stuff and then decide on a mill. Right now I'm thinking the mini-mill, but open to other thoughts.

Lastly, does anyone have any rec's on the best ripping chain and the best cross-cut chain for this saw? Thanks a ton!


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

tmanmi said:


> Amazon has them for $165.71 right now and I don't see anything out them being refurb's.



I just bought one of those and it is list as new.


----------



## rms61moparman

JeremiahJohnson said:


> I just bought one of those and it is list as new.





I call dibbs on it when you are done testing it out!!!


Mike


----------



## zogger

tomandjerry00 said:


> Thanks for all the help, especially the milling thoughts. I really appreciate it!
> 
> I have about 70 ft of fence to build, but I can't start building until April so plenty of time to mill.
> 
> Gonna try the saw for a week or two on the smaller stuff and then decide on a mill. Right now I'm thinking the mini-mill, but open to other thoughts.
> 
> Lastly, does anyone have any rec's on the best ripping chain and the best cross-cut chain for this saw? Thanks a ton!




Ha! Start reading

http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/

Ppersonally, Id look for an older much larger saw to do milling with. Anything, an old homelite or something.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

rms61moparman said:


> I call dibbs on it when you are done testing it out!!!
> 
> 
> Mike



I will be comparing to my grey craftsman poulan 3000 49cc that way it is in the right cc range to be compared. :msp_wink:

Others said 5020 had less torque in the cut then the 330 and 330 was stronger. That is expected IMO considering the 5020 50cc and 330 54cc. 
Just like the PP325 partner 5500 53cc is noticeably stronger and more torque in the cut then the partner 5000 49cc.
or 45cc 346 compared to 50cc 346 same thing noticed.

I have a good running grey craftsman 49cc aka poulan 3000 with bare bore to compare to. 

1st thing I plan on doing is never installing the 20". Going to put a 16" on from the get go in 3/8. Then maybe 325 later too since that is what the 3000 has on it. Will test with same set ups on both in 3/8 and 325.

Need to figure out the drum for a 325 switch though. :msp_unsure:

Oh a 346 50cc 545 550 will be there too. Hope the 5020 dont embarrass them to much. :msp_w00t:


----------



## Deleted member 83629

just buy one and go cut some wood dang it! i cut twice a week with mine and i have already burned 10 gallons of mix. time for a new plug though since im been running the saw a bit fat to help break it in since it wouldn't run out of the box


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Stephen C. said:


> I will as soon as it gets here.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:



I ordered mine yesterday about 6:30am. Said shipped from Indy at 3ish and is out for delivery UPS in Ohio right now. :shock::smile-big:


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Speak of the devil. :yoyo:

Now that was quick. Ordered yesterday at 630am, shipped same day 3ish. Delivered today UPS 415pm.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

OUT OF THE BOX NEW and homeowner sawer would get disgusted pretty quick IMO. The saw carb was off the mark on L and I. 

I checked factory settings and then put them back to see. L was 1.5 and H was 2 - 2.5 out (sorry cant remember H off hand). 

It would start and not idle and shut off. Start and bog giving throttle. 

I kept adjusting the carb till I ended up with about 3 out on L and left 2-2.5 on H at about 12.8K. Turned the I idle up too. Reminds me of the redmax carb and settings (which through me for a loop when I 1st got it), not like the 1 to 1.5 turns out we get used to.

Got to make some test cuts and I was  ear to ear.

Be warned make sure you have the splined carb tool $8-$14 and know how to tune a saw if buying NIB. 

K095 mount


----------



## w8ye

Most weed whacker size carbs were 2 to 2/1/2 on the needles


----------



## Deleted member 83629

i see it uses tygon fuel line that is strange i thought they used that cheap clear vinyl crap i guess i have to check mine
and get some super 70 oregon chain it is far better than the vanguard chain that comes with the saw


----------



## dswensen

*Fixed it for ya.*



jakewells said:


> i see it uses tygon fuel line that is strange i thought they used that cheap clear vinyl crap i guess i have to check mine
> and get some super 70 oregon chain it is far better than the vanguard chain that comes with the saw



_I see it uses Tygon fuel line. That is strange. I thought they used that cheap clear vinyl crap. I guess I have to check mine
and get some Super 70 Oregon chain. It is far better than the Vanguard chain that comes with the saw._


----------



## LegDeLimber

seems the threads are a bit tighter pitch on these carb screws, 
so it's giving some larger number of turns out than what the older stuff would take.


----------



## Deleted member 83629

dswensen said:


> _I see it uses Tygon fuel line. That is strange. I thought they used that cheap clear vinyl crap. I guess I have to check mine
> and get some Super 70 Oregon chain. It is far better than the Vanguard chain that comes with the saw._



My eyesight is terrible i appreciate the help.Hard for me to read the keyboard on my computer.


----------



## 2Twannabe

I finally finished reading this entire thread and thought I might as well throw in my two cents worth. 

I bought one of these last March for firewood cutting and helping a friend clear out some hedge rows. I didn't have quite the experience that Mark described as far as the carb tuning being close out of the box, but I had the tool and quickly got that sorted out. Overall, for a straight stock saw it did pretty good.

My biggest beef is with the darn thing throwing chains. This isn't a problem when you're just bucking logs, but when you're working in cover and cutting at odd angles, it tends to throw the chain - a lot. I noticed it most when I was clearing hedge rows. If you look at the space between the spur and the case, it's not difficult to understand why. There's a pretty good gap there, and if the chain gets even a little loose, it comes off. I've been thinking maybe a fellow could put a fender washer on the clutch shaft under the drum/spur and/or run a better quality chain and maybe this wouldn't be a problem.


----------



## fossil

2Twannabe said:


> I finally finished reading this entire thread and thought I might as well throw in my two cents worth.
> 
> I bought one of these last March for firewood cutting and helping a friend clear out some hedge rows. I didn't have quite the experience that Mark described as far as the carb tuning being close out of the box, but I had the tool and quickly got that sorted out. Overall, for a straight stock saw it did pretty good.
> 
> My biggest beef is with the darn thing throwing chains. This isn't a problem when you're just bucking logs, but when you're working in cover and cutting at odd angles, it tends to throw the chain - a lot. I noticed it most when I was clearing hedge rows. If you look at the space between the spur and the case, it's not difficult to understand why. There's a pretty good gap there, and if the chain gets even a little loose, it comes off. I've been thinking maybe a fellow could put a fender washer on the clutch shaft under the drum/spur and/or run a better quality chain and maybe this wouldn't be a problem.



There should be a washer between the spur and the saw case to prevent the chain from coming off the spur.
530015611 Washer - Clutch
If there isn't one there, make sure you get one.
Here's a link to the parts list.
http://www.poulanpro.com/ddoc/PPOI/PPOI2011_AAaa/PPOI2011_AAaa_PP5020AV_577387301.pdf


----------



## 2Twannabe

fossil said:


> There should be a washer between the spur and the saw case to prevent the chain from coming off the spur.
> 530015611 Washer - Clutch
> If there isn't one there, make sure you get one.
> Here's a link to the parts list.
> http://www.poulanpro.com/ddoc/PPOI/PPOI2011_AAaa/PPOI2011_AAaa_PP5020AV_577387301.pdf



The saw I had (I've since let go of it after a fellow gave me a stihl 031av) did not have said washer.


----------



## fossil

2Twannabe said:


> The saw I had (I've since let go of it after a fellow gave me a stihl 031av) did not have said washer.



That would explain the thrown chains. There is always a washer there for either spur or rim sprockets to keep the chain or rim sprocket from moving off the drum on any saw I've seen.


----------



## HDRock

I read most of this thread, cuz I was looking for something to fill in between my older Mcculloch 35cc , and the Husky 61, and with the $165 price for the 5020 now, it was very tempting, but I decided on a Husky 445, because among other things, the 20" bar on the 5020 and *most important for me the weight*, 
I didn't want to spend more on shorter bar n chain, I did order a LPX for the 445 though.
The 445 I got is a referb $217 shipped, which was very close to the going price for the 5020, aside from Amazon.
Grrreat thread


----------



## 2Twannabe

fossil said:


> That would explain the thrown chains. There is always a washer there for either spur or rim sprockets to keep the chain or rim sprocket from moving off the drum on any saw I've seen.



I got to thinking about this and finally I just had to get in the truck and drive down to Lowes to look at one. There is, in fact, a washer there, but it's nowhere big enough to prevent a chain from coming off the sprocket. Interestingly enough, the PP5020AV was the only Poulan with an outboard clutch. The PP4218, the 3816, and the 3314 all had inboard clutches with a great big washer on the outside of the spur to keep the chain on. Go figure.


----------



## Stihl_crazy

hello all i am new here but had to throw out my change on this one.I have a friand that comes around on 5 acres and we cut and pile slash and we also hall pallets and cut them up for fire wood for a big shop urban logger  anyway about 10 years ago i got a 025 stihl and it started falling in...back to the story so he has a poulan 40cc pro i think well we cut alot of pallets long story short he gets a new poulan every year but then the last one he got has lasted about 2 1/2 years now cut 100 cord of pallet wood with that saw its the biggiest cc they had then i dont like runnig the saw bt it did supprise me to see the same saw for more then a year with the amount of wood we cut with it but my old 025 i cant even count how many chains i wore out on that saw.back to the topic they seem to have come along way with the brand in the last coupe years,but we have done 60 in repairs on the saw a year mostly had to redo the chain tensioner all and all he keeps buying them i would have to say if you plan on cutting any amout of wood like even 1 large tree get a stihl its cheaper in the long run and my little 025 has cost me alot in parts but it was all chains and a spark plug 1 time nothing wrong with the saw for 10 years thats worth the litte more i payed for my little 025 and i work the crap out of the saw thats why i am stihl crazy if ya want a saw to beat up and work to death get a stihl if ya want to get a saw to look at get a poulan/hus ow never mind:msp_ohmy:


----------



## rms61moparman

Stihl_crazy said:


> hello all i am new here but had to throw out my change on this one.I have a friand that comes around on 5 acres and we cut and pile slash and we also hall pallets and cut them up for fire wood for a big shop urban logger  anyway about 10 years ago i got a 025 stihl and it started falling in...back to the story so he has a poulan 40cc pro i think well we cut alot of pallets long story short he gets a new poulan every year but then the last one he got has lasted about 2 1/2 years now cut 100 cord of pallet wood with that saw its the biggiest cc they had then i dont like runnig the saw bt it did supprise me to see the same saw for more then a year with the amount of wood we cut with it but my old 025 i cant even count how many chains i wore out on that saw.back to the topic they seem to have come along way with the brand in the last coupe years,but we have done 60 in repairs on the saw a year mostly had to redo the chain tensioner all and all he keeps buying them i would have to say if you plan on cutting any amout of wood like even 1 large tree get a stihl its cheaper in the long run and my little 025 has cost me alot in parts but it was all chains and a spark plug 1 time nothing wrong with the saw for 10 years thats worth the litte more i payed for my little 025 and i work the crap out of the saw thats why i am stihl crazy if ya want a saw to beat up and work to death get a stihl if ya want to get a saw to look at get a poulan/hus *ow never mind*:msp_ohmy:




The most sensible thing you conveyed in your whole post.
Ahm glade yew lik yer stil! Hop yer friand liks it two.


Mike


----------



## HDRock

Stihl_crazy said:


> hello all i am new here but had to throw out my change on this one.I have a friand that comes around on 5 acres and we cut and pile slash and we also hall pallets and cut them up for fire wood for a big shop urban logger  anyway about 10 years ago i got a 025 stihl and it started falling in...back to the story so he has a poulan 40cc pro i think well we cut alot of pallets long story short he gets a new poulan every year but then the last one he got has lasted about 2 1/2 years now cut 100 cord of pallet wood with that saw its the biggiest cc they had then i dont like runnig the saw bt it did supprise me to see the same saw for more then a year with the amount of wood we cut with it but my old 025 i cant even count how many chains i wore out on that saw.back to the topic they seem to have come along way with the brand in the last coupe years,but we have done 60 in repairs on the saw a year mostly had to redo the chain tensioner all and all he keeps buying them i would have to say if you plan on cutting any amout of wood like even 1 large tree get a stihl its cheaper in the long run and my little 025 has cost me alot in parts but it was all chains and a spark plug 1 time nothing wrong with the saw for 10 years thats worth the litte more i payed for my little 025 and i work the crap out of the saw thats why i am stihl crazy if ya want a saw to beat up and work to death get a stihl if ya want to get a saw to look at get a poulan/hus ow never mind:msp_ohmy:



"Stihl_crazy"


----------



## Stihl_crazy

ok i was just saying my friand went and had to get a new saw every year almost and had to work on them as well i never had to do anything to the stihl thats what sold me on them.with the down time and ordering parts and all that its a bad deal if your are trying to get something done and dont have time for it.I would say that we overworked the saw for what the poulan was designed to handel but all we did was cut wood and they dont seem to hold up.Thay have come along way in the last couple years thats for sure


----------



## HDRock

Stihl_crazy said:


> ok i was just saying my friand went and had to get a new saw every year almost and had to work on them as well i never had to do anything to the stihl thats what sold me on them.with the down time and ordering parts and all that its a bad deal if your are trying to get something done and dont have time for it.I would say that we overworked the saw for what the poulan was designed to handel but all we did was cut wood and they dont seem to hold up.Thay have come along way in the last couple years thats for sure



It's all arbitrary :msp_biggrin:


----------



## redunshee

I'm out of breath!


----------



## Chris-PA

Punctuation is your friend!


----------



## brokenbudget

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> Punctuation is your friend!



maybe sticking around a bit more in grade 2-4 would've helped with the spelling and punctuation:msp_confused:


----------



## LegDeLimber

Modifiedmark , WoodHeatWarrior and or anyone else
that's familiar with tear down and reassembly of the 5020 oiler.

yesterday was sharpen up chains day
to get ready to try grabbing some video (finally!)
but it looks like the oiler is getting weaker.. crap!
bar is clear, etc just seemed to be flowing less than my first useage view of it.

Wal-mart or poulan bar oil used, tried some cut with bit of old kerosine
to see if made diff, hard to if it did..

any of you guys been into this one and got any tips to look for??
purtty Please !!!
kinks, dingle berries, factory sluff ??

I looked at diagram and see a vent tube 
along with the pump body etc 
and and the typical tube fittings to and from it.

any reason I can't access and pull the entire pump and its tubes
pick up , screen etc.. from the clutch side

BUT, my biggest question of access here..
Wondering if I can entirely access That vent tube, 
from the clutch side ?
vent tube is item #10 in pdf

will check tank etc. 
then I figure to go from oil pump plunger/gear & crank gear-spiral
and then onward to pickup tube, alway through to the outlet at bar mount, etc


www.oscar-wilson.com/MANUALS/POULAN/PP5020AV.PDF

if anyone has a faster loading copy of the pdf, would be appreciated!

= 

I've got couple neighbors with no saws expecting me to pull this off
and then one guy is gonna pay the splitter rental (cool!)
and we'll divide work and wood 
(they'll gladly handle the heavy lifting if I can just cut)

...so any help would be Majorly big-time appreciated !!! 
-
gotta get out and start things.
so it'll be sorta spuratic to get back 
to desktop and check here.
so might make me bit delayed to answer any help words.


----------



## Chris-PA

I don't have a 5020 (yet), but since you're in a hurry I'll give what advice I can. The pump looks very much like the ones on the 2775. You have to remove the clutch and the bar plate to remove the pump. Once those are out you just pull the 2 screws and it gently pry it out. One thing that happens to them is that the pump gear teeth are nylon and if too much junk gets packed in there they get jambed, and then the metal drive gear just grinds them away. The teeth should be straight, not have a rounded out section in the middle.

Once the pump is out you could blow though the pickup tube too.

But before you do any of that, I'd run the saw with no bar and look to see if oil is coming out of the bar plate. Further, the system relies on transferring the oil from the bar plate to the bar and then up to the groove. If there is dirt or a gap between the case and the bar plate or the bar plate and the bar, then the seal is broken and some of the oil will just run out there rather than making it to the bar groove. It is important to keep this area very clean. Also, if there is no seal from the bar to the clutch cover that may allow oil to run through the hole in the bar and run out there.


----------



## LegDeLimber

Thanks, Woodheat.
Yeah, seen that packed area and chewed plastic gear (pinion?) on plunger
would love to recurve the stroke guide groove in it.

will try remeber to hit all points you mentioned. 
tahnks, gonna bail off here for abit and go try things.


----------



## rms61moparman

LegDeLimber said:


> Modifiedmark , WoodHeatWarrior and or anyone else
> that's familiar with tear down and reassembly of the 5020 oiler.
> 
> yesterday was sharpen up chains day
> to get ready to try grabbing some video (finally!)
> but it looks like the oiler is getting weaker.. crap!
> bar is clear, etc just seemed to be flowing less than my first useage view of it.
> 
> Wal-mart or poulan bar oil used, tried some cut with bit of old kerosine
> to see if made diff, hard to if it did..
> 
> any of you guys been into this one and got any tips to look for??
> purtty Please !!!
> kinks, dingle berries, factory sluff ??
> 
> I looked at diagram and see a vent tube
> along with the pump body etc
> and and the typical tube fittings to and from it.
> 
> any reason I can't access and pull the entire pump and its tubes
> pick up , screen etc.. from the clutch side
> 
> BUT, my biggest question of access here..
> Wondering if I can entirely access That vent tube,
> from the clutch side ?
> vent tube is item #10 in pdf
> 
> will check tank etc.
> then I figure to go from oil pump plunger/gear & crank gear-spiral
> and then onward to pickup tube, alway through to the outlet at bar mount, etc
> 
> 
> www.oscar-wilson.com/MANUALS/POULAN/PP5020AV.PDF
> 
> if anyone has a faster loading copy of the pdf, would be appreciated!
> 
> =
> 
> I've got couple neighbors with no saws expecting me to pull this off
> and then one guy is gonna pay the splitter rental (cool!)
> and we'll divide work and wood
> (they'll gladly handle the heavy lifting if I can just cut)
> 
> ...so any help would be Majorly big-time appreciated !!!
> -
> gotta get out and start things.
> so it'll be sorta spuratic to get back
> to desktop and check here.
> so might make me bit delayed to answer any help words.





I wouldn't think it would be an issue in North Carolina but if it gets cold enough and you run summer bar oil without thinning it or warming it up before use you can actually strip the nylon teeth off of the driven gear.

The good news is that unlike the other manufacturers, Poulan oilers are VERY affordable.



Mike


----------



## Modifiedmark

rms61moparman said:


> I wouldn't think it would be an issue in North Carolina but if it gets cold enough and you run summer bar oil without thinning it or warming it up before use you can actually strip the nylon teeth off of the driven gear.
> 
> The good news is that unlike the other manufacturers, Poulan oilers are VERY affordable.
> 
> 
> 
> Mike



Yes they are very affordable, so affordable that the cost for the first two years is free. Its called the two year warranty and should be used when needed. 

Otherwise your right, I looked and a new oiler is around $5. 

One other thing I found when looking is a IPL for a Poulan Pro 4818A that apperars to be the exact same saw as the 5020 but for a 18" bar. 

Anyone seen one of these out there?


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Modifiedmark said:


> One other thing I found when looking is a IPL for a Poulan Pro 4818A that apperars to be the exact same saw as the 5020 but for a 18" bar.
> 
> Anyone seen one of these out there?




The pic I just looked at of 4818 looks like the muffler of old 4618 style. Nothing like a 5020 at all.

http://cache.vendaria.com/integrati...7707&cf=3000&purl=sys_homedepot_uid_203627707

But my 5020 came in and it is 5016. :msp_tongue:


----------



## 2Twannabe

Modifiedmark said:


> Yes they are very affordable, so affordable that the cost for the first two years is free. Its called the two year warranty and should be used when needed.
> 
> Otherwise your right, I looked and a new oiler is around $5.
> 
> One other thing I found when looking is a IPL for a Poulan Pro 4818A that apperars to be the exact same saw as the 5020 but for a 18" bar.
> 
> Anyone seen one of these out there?



You sure about the 4818? They make a PP4218, but I haven't heard of a 4818. The 4218 is a little different. It has the no-tool chain adjuster on it and an inboard clutch rather than the outboard clutch the 5020 sports.


----------



## Modifiedmark

JeremiahJohnson said:


> Havent seen anything on 4818.
> 
> But my 5020 came in and it is 5016. :msp_tongue:



You should know better then to come in here and say something like that! 

Googles probably getting wore out right now from jokers looking for a Poulan Pro 5016 :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## Modifiedmark

2Twannabe said:


> You sure about the 4818? They make a PP4218, but I haven't heard of a 4818. The 4218 is a little different. It has the no-tool chain adjuster on it and an inboard clutch rather than the outboard clutch the 5020 sports.



Yes I'm sure, I have the IPL for it and yes I know all about the 4218.


----------



## 2Twannabe

Modifiedmark said:


> You should know better then to come in here and say something like that!
> 
> Googles probably getting wore out right now from jokers looking for a Poulan Pro 5016 :hmm3grin2orange:





Or a PP4818! I think we've been had.


----------



## zogger

Modifiedmark said:


> Yes they are very affordable, so affordable that the cost for the first two years is free. Its called the two year warranty and should be used when needed.
> 
> Otherwise your right, I looked and a new oiler is around $5.
> 
> One other thing I found when looking is a IPL for a Poulan Pro 4818A that apperars to be the exact same saw as the 5020 but for a 18" bar.
> 
> Anyone seen one of these out there?



They are on the home depot website. Never seen one though, my local HD does echo/ryobi/homelite I believe.

Local tractor supply does husky and poulan, but only the very smallest cheapest poulans, no poulan pros with antivibe at all, not on the shelf anyway. They push the home owner huskies.


----------



## Chris-PA

No, the PP4818 is real. There was a discussion about it on here a week or two ago. Anyway, it's the same chassis as the 5020 so for the weight I'd rather have 50cc.


----------



## Modifiedmark

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/e7/e7adbf26-24ce-4f9f-93c3-a99d84917260.pdf


----------



## Modifiedmark

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> No, the PP4818 is real. There was a discussion about it on here a week or two ago. Anyway, it's the same chassis as the 5020 so for the weight I'd rather have 50cc.



It is 50cc, look at the IPL, same parts other then bar and chain.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Modifiedmark said:


> http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/e7/e7adbf26-24ce-4f9f-93c3-a99d84917260.pdf



Mark I wonder which is wrong? IPL or the pic of 4818 The Home Depot


Says 48cc on sales ad too.


----------



## LegDeLimber

just a quick look in: Snapping a few pics as I go.
so hope I'm getting the exposure close. 
(low res on the [old]camera's monitor screen)
will sort and post if I got any useable shots later.

found some of that small chip/dust packing happening under the pump cover.
Pulled everything including p/up tube all good & clean 
all the bits look undamaged.
no stripped/distorted plastics anywhere though (Yay)

gentle doses of starting fluid for wash and and easy touch of air
and towel dry. verify flow through all passages including 
pump plunger ##cylinder/tube , pick up coil/filter.

( ##really tempted to measure/calc area of those ports
and open about 20~odd? percent
but deburing the internal cross drilled passages , afterwards,
is more than I'm up for today )

Wish I knew if that vent tube [ #10 in pdf-ipl ] 
pulled out 
and reinstalled from pto side
but not gonna risk messing w/today


----------



## Modifiedmark

JeremiahJohnson said:


> Mark I wonder which is wrong? IPL or the pic of 4818 The Home Depot



If you looked at the IPL it will be obvious that the picture is wrong. 

Not surprising after how long it took for the 5020 to even appear on the Poulan Pro website.


----------



## 2Twannabe

Well, the part numbers for the piston kits are the same, but there seems to be some misinformation out there. There's nothing on the Poulan website. Northern Tool lists the PP4818A, but then specs the engine as a 42cc. Something smells fishy!


----------



## Modifiedmark

JeremiahJohnson said:


> See now me being a betting man is betting home depot has the wrong IPL posted.  5020 info on a 4818 IPL.
> 
> Pic shows 4818 48cc saw




I'll take that bet! 

Homo depot isnt the only one with that IPL.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Modifiedmark said:


> I'll take that bet!
> 
> Homo depot isnt the only one with that IPL.



Yep went looking and noticed that too. Hmmmmmm 

Guess HD must have wrong pic till I see one in person.

Wonder when they will call it 4616 next. 

This is what threw me off http://www.homedepot.com/buy/poulan-pro-pp4818-18-in-48-cc-gas-chainsaw-967198201.html#.UTOHcFc4HV4


----------



## Chris-PA

Lol - I looked at the IPL but never bothered to compare the part numbers. Poulan certainly has a rep for marking the same displacement all manner of things!

And why bother making an engine 2cc less anyway?


----------



## rms61moparman

Don't overlook the fact that Poulan badges their saws as anything they want as long as it isn't MORE than the actual.

Selling a bigger saw engine in a smaller labeled case is nothing new for them!


Mike


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Well then my saw is neither a 5020 or 5016. It is now a 4616 by gawd. :msp_tongue:


----------



## Modifiedmark

JeremiahJohnson said:


> Yep went looking and noticed that too. Hmmmmmm
> 
> Guess HD must have wrong pic till I see one in person.
> 
> Wonder when they will call it 4616 next.
> 
> This is what threw me off Poulan PRO PP4818 18 in. 48 cc Gas Chainsaw 967198201 at The Home Depot



Yep, now I guess its a good thing I quoted your post before you deleted it. 

You cant weasle out on the bet now.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

owners manual looks just like the 50 too. http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pd...ea255a757036.pdf?cm_mmc=seo|altruik|203627707


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Modifiedmark said:


> Yep, now I guess its a good thing I quoted your post before you deleted it.
> 
> You cant weasle out on the bet now.



Yep I was finding all the IPL's matched.  Now I looked at owners manual and it has 50 pics too. :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

I can see it now 5020 4818 4616 4214 4012


----------



## rms61moparman

Modifiedmark said:


> I'll take that bet!
> 
> Homo depot isnt the only one with that IPL.





JeremiahJohnson said:


> Yep went looking and noticed that too. Hmmmmmm
> 
> Guess HD must have wrong pic till I see one in person.
> 
> Wonder when they will call it 4616 next.
> 
> This is what threw me off Poulan PRO PP4818 18 in. 48 cc Gas Chainsaw 967198201 at The Home Depot





Modifiedmark said:


> Yep, now I guess its a good thing I quoted your post before you deleted it.
> 
> You cant weasle out on the bet now.





JeremiahJohnson said:


> Yep I was finding all the IPL's matched.  Now I looked at owners manual and it has 50 pics too. :hmm3grin2orange:





Kevin,


Mark drinks "Miller High Life" in the longneck bottles.
P.M. me for his address!!!LOL


Mike


----------



## Modifiedmark

rms61moparman said:


> Kevin,
> 
> 
> Mark drinks "Miller High Life" in the longneck bottles.
> P.M. me for his address!!!LOL
> 
> 
> Mike



Yep and I'm thinking 24 of them ought to settle that bet in a satisfactory manner.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

rms61moparman said:


> Kevin,
> 
> 
> Mark drinks "Miller High Life" in the longneck bottles.
> P.M. me for his address!!!LOL
> 
> 
> Mike



I dont like shipping you should know that . Scares the heck out of me mailing rarer saws around (especially a only 1 seen so far). OK miller high life wouldnt be a big loss in the mail (sorry Mark had to). :hmm3grin2orange:

I will deliver at my neighbors down the road someday. Heck 2 saws to deliver there now.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Modifiedmark said:


> Yep and I'm thinking 24 of them ought to settle that bet in a satisfactory manner.



Hey hey hey I said I was a betting man. Never said what I would bet and I bet smart not crazy :msp_smile:


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

If I take one of these real beers and pizz it out into a high life bottle and re cap it you think he would notice.


----------



## Modifiedmark

JeremiahJohnson said:


> If I take one of these real beers and pizz it out into a high life bottle and re cap it you think he would notice.



I think that would mean your a sore loser.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Modifiedmark said:


> I think that would mean your a sore loser.



Nope nothing like that at all. I just remember the taste many years ago. 

I remember having to drink that stuff when I was in the military in Turkey. Different guy each week had to buy on flight and fill up my fridge for the 2 day off drinking. 1 guy from Fla liked miller high life. We all moaned and complained but it was FREE so we drinked it.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

This is the 5016. The bar is the black plain 16" 3/8 050 bars in K041 mount you can buy new still.

I converted this K041 mount long ago to be able to run it on my huskys too with K095 mount, so it works on the 5016 too.


----------



## Vibes

Justs a heads up for anyone following this thread. These saws are on Amazon at $165 right now.


----------



## Deleted member 83629

I will take a cold Schlitz right now.


----------



## barneyrb

jakewells said:


> I will take a cold Schlitz right now.



You are either broke, hard up, drying out, or in jail. That is the bottom of the barrel IMHO.....

:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## LegDeLimber

This is just a short test vid that I put up. 
You can see that I pushed it a bit at the bottom of the cut 
and loaded up the bar with sawdust.
It cuts fine as long as you don't gag it.

Poulan Pro PP5020AV - YouTube
For budget reasons, I'm stuck with using an old camcorder at this time.

I've got some pics and other video that need sorting out 
and then I'll have to learn to use the software to edit and upload them.


----------



## spike60

barneyrb said:


> You are either broke, hard up, drying out, or in jail. That is the bottom of the barrel IMHO.....
> 
> :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:



Unfair!

It was always a good beer, and a top brand in the US for a long time. It's biggest problem isn't how it tastes, but what it rhymes with. :msp_ohmy:


----------



## fossil

spike60 said:


> Unfair!
> 
> It was always a good beer, and a top brand in the US for a long time. It's biggest problem isn't how it tastes, but what it rhymes with. :msp_ohmy:



Beer is one of the fuels that needs more alcohol.


----------



## rms61moparman

fossil said:


> Beer is one of the fuels that needs more alcohol.





Then you are drinking the WRONG kind of beer!!!


Mike


----------



## fossil

rms61moparman said:


> Then you are drinking the WRONG kind of beer!!!
> 
> 
> Mike



Belgian Achel beer comes in at 8%. Good stuff too.

Anyhow, back to saws


----------



## zogger

Stephen C. said:


> It looks like I won't get to play, Amazon lost my 5020 in Wyoming Michigan...made it that far then "poof" Was supposed to be here a couple days ago.




Well, that *sucks*!


but, ya know, wyoming, michigan....coulda gone anywhere


----------



## LegDeLimber

had some question about the oiler output, so I pulled it out to look at things.
after about 3 gallons of run time, this is what I found in the oil pump area.

(blue arrows) You can see a gap where chips seem to be getting in under the pump housing/cover

2 pics of the oil pump, trying to get decent exposure.

next 2 pics are the oiler parts and area cleaned up for initial inspection.


----------



## LegDeLimber

Sorry that this is broken up, but there's a 5 pic limit on posts plus I'm a slow "typist"

next group of pics:
you can see a gap where it looks like chips & sawdust are entering the oiler.
the pick point is down in the gap.
There also is a gap at the top of the oiler location.

I decided to try a dab of hot melt glue to fill the gap and 
will see what results it brings, after some more run time.
I hadn't smoothed out and de-stringed the glue yet, in this pic.

in the next one is the oiler plunger body with the ports that I wonder if
a very slight enlargement might help the flow?


----------



## LegDeLimber

and one more pic showing the early wear pattern on a clutch shoe.
no opinion on this yet, just throwing it in while here.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

I was challenged today. :hmm3grin2orange: People should know better then to challenge a Redneck at anything.



> Modifiedmark
> Now go and show us how to convert a 5020 to .325 pitch. I dare ya. LOL



I said, Bet and DONE Just tested with 325 7 on 5020 = 5018 today. Neat thing is I found a drum that uses rims. 


5mins later and 3 swaps and BINGO that was way to simple for a redneck




18" 325 7T set up on the 5020 and put ta 16" 3/8 on the 545. The 545 loves the 3/8 just like the 550. Plus side 5020 takes rims now instead of the 3/8 spur like OEM

I like the 3/8 16" on the 5020 too. Will be going back. Could just be the carlton 325, I like stihl 325 chains best.


----------



## Modifiedmark

You aint proved nothing yet, anyone could bolt that bar and chain on one. :hmm3grin2orange:

No showing what rim drive was used, no video no nothing. 

Carlton .325? That stuffs lousy.


----------



## brokenbudget

JeremiahJohnson said:


> I was challenged today. :hmm3grin2orange: People should know better then to challenge a Redneck at anything.
> 
> 
> 
> I said, Bet and DONE Just tested with 325 7 on 5020 = 5018 today. Neat thing is I found a drum that uses rims.
> 
> 
> 5mins later and 3 swaps and BINGO that was way to simple for a redneck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 18" 325 7T set up on the 5020 and put ta 16" 3/8 on the 545. The 545 loves the 3/8 just like the 550. Plus side 5020 takes rims now instead of the 3/8 spur like OEM
> 
> I like the 3/8 16" on the 5020 too. Will be going back. Could just be the carlton 325, I like stihl 325 chains best.




what's the drum from?:msp_thumbup:


----------



## Modifiedmark

brokenbudget said:


> what's the drum from?:msp_thumbup:



Good luck with that! :hmm3grin2orange:

You would think that its a top redneck secret or something.,...


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Modifiedmark said:


> Good luck with that! :hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> You would think that its a top redneck secret or something.,...



So what did you run for 325 on the 5020 when you tried a set up? I didnt use any bushing like you said I might want to try.

Straight match up bearing and all . Yep that was another hint hint :hmm3grin2orange: 

The saw like 3/8 16" way better. Maybe 325 in 20" if someone down the road wanted one local.


----------



## LegDeLimber

musta been somethin' about chain, in the air today.

part of the day was spent comparing a couple of old bars 
and digging into the old stash of drums and chain, myself.

didn't have anything usable that was in (limited) stock though.


----------



## Chris-PA

JeremiahJohnson said:


> So what did you run for 325 on the 5020 when you tried a set up? I didnt use any bushing like you said I might want to try.
> 
> Straight match up bearing and all . Yep that was another hint hint :hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> The saw like 3/8 16" way better. Maybe 325 in 20" if someone down the road wanted one local.


See, you're just being cruel now!


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

If it wasnt for Mark's post in my 5020 thread I wouldnt have went looking today. I had just been running things through my mind to try before. 

So it's all Mark's fault I found the set up today. :msp_thumbup:


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

brokenbudget said:


> what's the drum from?:msp_thumbup:



I think a poulan 3000 etc clutch drum would work IF we could find a bearing with 10mm I.D. and fit the O.D. 3000 etc clutch drum. 

I dont want to use bushing and the one I used from ....... worked perfect. :msp_tongue: PM was sent.


----------



## Modifiedmark

JeremiahJohnson said:


> I think a poulan 3000 etc clutch drum would work IF we could find a bearing with 10mm I.D. and fit the O.D. 3000 etc clutch drum.



Really? I laid that out on the 3rd page of this thread....


----------



## Brian B.

I just picked up my Craigslist 5020 trade- super clean saw, I'm tickled..

Wish I couls say I had read ALL of this NOVEL of a thread, I have nt from what I have seen so far up and close I got a good, good trade, I am a happy camper!


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Modifiedmark said:


> Really? I laid that out on the 3rd page of this thread....



Yeah Really :hmm3grin2orange:

Clutch drum I went with didnt need any retro fitting. 



Stihl-Pioneer said:


> Mark, could the drum be basically the same as a pp295 except it has a 3/8 spur on it? I don't recall if the brg is smaller on the 295.





Modifiedmark said:


> It is smaller, I had one in my hand last night and it is closer to fitting but the brg inner dia is still a bit larger on the 295 style.



Thats one I was wondering about too 295 4620. Guess I can scratch that one off.


----------



## dswensen

Brian B. said:


> Wish I couls say I had read ALL of this NOVEL of a thread



You should check out the Earthquake thread .... :msp_scared:


----------



## Chris-PA

So all joking aside, I may have missed it but what drum did you use? I understood this saw had a smaller diameter bearing and Mark could not find any that fit at the time he was looking. I'm curious as it could indicate what platform this one is related to.


----------



## Brian B.

Platform?

Just looks like a Husky 450 to me,


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

I wished I had a husky 450 to look at to compare.


But for my drum Go Echo


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

> Modifiedmark
> Now go and show us how to convert a 5020 to .325 pitch. I dare ya. LOL



Well I have had enough fun with this challenge. :msp_lol:

Sometimes you need to think out of the box and why a team concept trouble shooting works. Just because 1 single person cant find something dont mean its not out there. Throw a few brains together and ask for help and you could be amazed what a team can come up with.

I used a echo 3900 drum. I am sure there are plenty of echos using that drum set up out there as the number has been supersede.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Poulan sent me a email yesterday asking me how I liked the 5020 and if any feedback. First time that has happened with any saw or equipment purchase from any maker. 

:cool2::msp_thumbup::msp_thumbsup:


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Poulan 5020 with .325 and rim set up.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

I can confirm a 3300 clutch drum will be on my next 325 conversion for 5020 saws. No bushing crap either.  So now there is the echo and poulan clutch drum options for 5020 in 325.


----------



## Brian B.

I can't wait to see how my "new" 5020 cuts- sure does start easy and idle well.

I did see the minor flaw in the air filter thoiugh, how it let's just a little gunk past it- I need to figure a way to stop that while still being removable/ serviceable.

Sounds like I may have to just tweak the "H" setting on the carb a wee bit, @ WOT it ever so slightly misbehaves- I want to cut with it first though and see how it does in wood.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

I tore into the 5016 some yesterday and my air filter was perfect fit, nothing getting by. I have heard of others having loose fitting AF though. My AF fit was tight just like I like them.  

Maybe grease the AF mounting area if so.


----------



## rms61moparman

I thought you were going to do some comparison videos or something???


Mike


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

rms61moparman said:


> I thought you were going to do some comparison videos or something???
> 
> 
> Mike



Did. posted in another thread. 

Just got video of 5020 and 545. The 5020 was way fat for break in and the 545 was loading up when first started and 1st cut. Poor video too, used old cam on poor az setting.


I had a bearing in mind the same night I put the 325 echo drum on the 5020.

Well I confirmed it with calibers and ordered one. I will be putting a poulan 3000 3300 etc clutch drum with rims or spur in 325 on a 5020 next. Just so many options out there to do this 325 swap.


----------



## zogger

JeremiahJohnson said:


> Poulan sent me a email yesterday asking me how I liked the 5020 and if any feedback. First time that has happened with any saw or equipment purchase from any maker.
> 
> :cool2::msp_thumbup::msp_thumbsup:



Thats interesting. Ask them if someone from there would register here so we can have discussions. Have them post a thread where anything goes. That efco rep did that and it was a good thread. I know my first question will be..when will we see a pro quality, split mag case, adjustable oiler, etc., 70 cc saw? Like, heres my thoughts, this would be cool, budget but still good quality, a 5020(18,16) and 7024(28,32) two saw plan....


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Oregon signed up on another site and we had discussions and sent me a saw to test out. Now where do you think I would tell poulan to sign up at.


----------



## zogger

JeremiahJohnson said:


> Oregon signed up on another site and we had discussions and sent me a saw to test out. Now where do you think I would tell poulan to sign up at.



I got the same deal on this site with oregon, and have a very long review thread with their saw.

http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/179262.htm


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Looks like same year too when they were pushing the new saw for testing.


----------



## zogger

JeremiahJohnson said:


> Looks like same year too when they were pushing the new saw for testing.



I like mine a *lot*. Unless something changes, that and my s25cva will proly be my full geezer what I can still run saws down the road. 

Once I got used to using it , I really upped my production per battery charge. I had a learning curve with it. I LOVE the instant on / off compared to a regular small gasser when getting the little limbs off. Set it down, off, move brush outta the way, grab it, back to cutting. Dang nice.....I like the sharpener as well, and the powersharp chain. If they had it in full size 3/8ths Id be all over that to run on a 20 inch or larger bar on a bigger saw. I think it would work better than semi chisel... Looking at YOU Mr. nasty dirty shagbark hickory! HAHAHAHA!


----------



## Modifiedmark

JeremiahJohnson said:


> Did. posted in another thread.
> 
> Just got video of 5020 and 545. The 5020 was way fat for break in and the 545 was loading up when first started and 1st cut. Poor video too, used old cam on poor az setting.
> 
> 
> I had a bearing in mind the same night I put the 325 echo drum on the 5020.
> 
> Well I confirmed it with calibers and ordered one. I will be putting a poulan 3000 3300 etc clutch drum with rims or spur in 325 on a 5020 next. Just so many options out there to do this 325 swap.




Thats good to know, I wondered if there was a brg out there. I just never thought it really worth my effort to follow up on it once I found out how well the 5020 pulled the 3/8's when equipped with a 16" bar. 

I know the 3000 drum was a good fit otherwise. A oilite bushing would not have been crap though, Poulan equipped many saws that way stock for many years and they seemed to last a long time, in fact most at least lasted till the spur was shot.


----------



## zogger

Stephen C. said:


> but would you pay $400 for it? I have $300 in my old fashioned Efco 152 ans 156 together. Mt Poulan 8500 was $200 and my Dolmar 7900 was $300. :msp_unsure::msp_unsure:



I think their prices are fair and in line with other high end battery operated tools. And now husky/stihl/bosch/makita and ryobi all have decent enough saw models. I think the ryobi is the least expensive at 200, and they go up fast from there.. Go look what a new high end drill costs.... Your gas saw deal prices are used prices, those are not new prices. Of course I have similar good deal used saws...

As to $400 new, harry homeowner buys a homeowner level anything, even husky or stihl.. 200 something bucks, one year later, whoops, another tree down in the yard needs cutting, it has been run down with bad fuel, etc, yank yank yank much cussing, no start, take it to the shop, gets a quote that is almost as much as another saw...he gets another saw. Now into having a saw at over 400..so ya, its a deal for some. Add in convenience o built in chain sharpener...lot of people dont or cant shaarpen their own chains, real nice to not have to stop cutting, drive to the dealer, drop off chain, etc....

Go to amazon or some other place and read the real world, people who DID drop the coin to buy one. Usually after bad experience with gas saws and warranties that mean absolutely nothing because of ethanol fuel. Stock dealer answer, you straight gassed the saw! Home owner, I did not! Neither is lying, it is the crap fuel... those people are not chainsaw addicts on a hotrod forum like here, real world regular folks who do not have two dozen saws. Pretty much the highest reviews you will see. Those people love that saw. Read the reviews, it is quiet, starts instantly, always ready to rock, etc. Thats what they are paying for. Some go on and on their cheapo gas saws are better, yada yada, but most people who want a grab and go small saw love the no hassle deal associated with the battery saws. And eventually they will have other *** you can use the saw batts with...people who live in big bucks suburbia and only cut branches and so on, not ten cords a year firewood...it just isnt that much money to those folks.

Really not trying to derail the 5020 thread here....


----------



## LegDeLimber

Been doing a bit more cutting on that same pile of wood from neighbors trees
and the saw just seemed a bit "off".
Seemed like it was getting easier to pull the recoil 
power was down some and wanting to die at idle.

Re tweaked the carb some but saw still was erratic.
changed fuel filter and plug, seemed to help a bit
but still seemed down on power.
ran it a bit more and called it a day.
Crazy blustery windy day where if you lay down your gloves, they blow away
and getting tired of sawdust in the eyes,
and got a nasty headache after started cutting (?again).

compression gauge says dropping from last reading, so pulled muffler
and took a peek.

Still in warranty period, so no plans for a teardown and look see.

I don't have a manual focus option on the camera so getting a prefocus
and then pointing inside the saw was a bit tricky and 
makes using my tripod (ballhead) near undoable, so the pics show my hand shake too.


----------



## cobey

just got one today ... thanks for the thread Mark


----------



## Chris-PA

LegDeLimber said:


> Been doing a bit more cutting on that same pile of wood from neighbors trees
> and the saw just seemed a bit "off".
> Seemed like it was getting easier to pull the recoil
> power was down some and wanting to die at idle.
> 
> Re tweaked the carb some but saw still was erratic.
> changed fuel filter and plug, seemed to help a bit
> but still seemed down on power.
> ran it a bit more and called it a day.
> Crazy blustery windy day where if you lay down your gloves, they blow away
> and getting tired of sawdust in the eyes,
> and got a nasty headache after started cutting (?again).
> 
> compression gauge says dropping from last reading, so pulled muffler
> and took a peek.
> 
> Still in warranty period, so no plans for a teardown and look see.
> 
> I don't have a manual focus option on the camera so getting a prefocus
> and then pointing inside the saw was a bit tricky and
> makes using my tripod (ballhead) near undoable, so the pics show my hand shake too.


The pics are pretty good, but I can't really tell what I'm seeing in that first shot. But the rest look fine to me. How much is it dropping by the gauge? 

I think a gauge would be useful - I don't have one for chainsaws - but keep in mind what you are doing. Essentially you are cranking the engine slowly and recording the peak cylinder pressure at those low rpms, and trying to infer what this means for actual cylinder pressures during operation. The relationship between the two can be affected by a lot of things, including port timing. Even the low speed measurement is subject to a lot of variability. So it is useful as a relative measure. but don't read too much into it.


----------



## Brian B.

Finally got to run my new/used 5020 this weekend, good saw, I dig it! Sounds awesome. I need to get two good chains for it, the one I had was in rough shape but I got an over-all feel for the saw- and its thumbs up! (I was surprised to find that I dig the 20" bar, my back appreciated not leaning over as much)

Mine seemed to be set up right from Husky so if it aint broke- for now I'm leaving the carb settings alone.

Good job Husky!- she's a good all arounder.


----------



## cobey

HEY MARK!  what chain should i order for the 20" bar and if i get a 16 inch bar what #'s would i need 
to get a chain and a bar?? I have a tractor supply around but they have the stretchy tri link chains
im kinda chain size and # dumb, I know you need links and size. I dont have a good saw shop around here :msp_sad:


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

I ran my new 5020 today with new 550 545 and a 346 NE and rebuilt 353 I just finished yesterday. All 16" 3/8 set ups.  Good time and nice mini gtg talk.


----------



## 3000 FPS

JeremiahJohnson said:


> I ran my new 5020 today with new 550 545 and a 346 NE and rebuilt 353 I just finished yesterday. All 16" 3/8 set ups.  Good time and nice mini gtg talk.



Well what is the opinion?


----------



## zogger

3000 FPS said:


> Well what is the opinion?



And where are the race vids! ha!


----------



## LegDeLimber

Woodheat, the first pic is a spot that looks like the cylinder wall is peeling.
in the second pic looking in the exhaust port, I was trying to see if I could see any more problem spots.
the others were trying to get an overall look at the piston top.

on the compression gauge, yeah it's a case of outrunning any losses or leak rates at that slow speed.
the gauge is showing about 95 now and was a something like 103~104 at the highest reading
before running the saw.
I felt a bit concerned at the numbers, 
but would like to compare readings to a known good gauge.
I have tried 2 different gauges in the compression rig 
and they both seem to show the same numbers.
I wouldn't expect a drop for any reason that's good news though.

I haven't made the run to box store for warranty fun yet, 
so I may try to get some better shots of the saw before I take it in.
I just tried it freehand for the first pics and as is evident the hand shake is a problem
along with the guessing at the focus point.

Was thinking of looking around for some way to build up a rest for the camera, 
that would let me half press the shutter with a false target and then reliably 
reposition and take the shot in the saw.
figured I could take a small rod and use to establish the distance to saw interior
and set a target at equal distance to use for locking the focus.

Another problem is my depth of field at that short range, but if I pull back to get better DOF
I lose all the detail, Camera is a 5m pixel, so it has its limits.
I think these old Panasonics can shoot some darn nice frames 
when you get a feel for them.


----------



## Chris-PA

Well, if it's losing power that could be many things, but if the chrome is peeling there then that's more serious, especially combined with the power reduction. Peeling chrome certainly won't heal if that is what it is. But a 9% (worst case) change in the compression reading is probably within the margin of error for that measurement.


----------



## Deleted member 83629

i would like to see one ported work but no one has done one yet.


----------



## cobey

bought a pp5020av... started 
it in the stores parking lot.... the salesman was afraid i would start it in the store..first time I
was ever warned about that:tongue2: :smile2: read this whole thread since yesterday
learned some stuff. i got to get it into some wood soon!


----------



## Brian B.

The only thing odd I noticed yesterday with mine- it was the first time I ran it, and it wasn't my fuel in it. So I open the tank, dump out the questionable fuel in the gravel- out plops my tank filter/ pickup. Apparrently the pick up wasn't connected tightly from the factory- but its all good, it on tight now- like I said, ran like a top.

Saw has a nice tone at idle I really dig it.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Brian B. said:


> Saw has a nice tone at idle I really dig it.



I noticed that too. 

I was comparing the husky 450 IPL and looked at one up close and they share some things :msp_wink:. Cylinders are different. 
Plus the 5020 is branded all over with the husky emblem.


----------



## Brian B.

I had made the leap of assumption that the two were essentially the same saw as far a scritical components- not so huh, well regardless, a fine saw.


----------



## cobey

i ordered two good chains from chainsawr today :msp_biggrin: runs like a 290 (orange and white) at least what i remeber 
of running a 290. the stump was oval 23 x 19 or so when I was done i cut it off the ground (a few inches) it cut threw pretty good,
was torquey enough, this is far from hard wood but it gave it a good run in.


----------



## LegDeLimber

*better pics of bad spots*

managed to get a couple of better shots of the cylinder wall.

looks pretty rough in there.
Judging from those lines, 
I'd say the ring's been skipping over a lot of dingle berries.
Looks like it missed a cleaning step before being plated.

I used a large straw to gauge the distance to try setting a target for the camera focus.
In pic 1050707, the redto a couple of marks in the oil 
that were left from trying to see if I could feel the spot with the straw.

edit: I'll try to post up several of the photos again. Oct - 25- 2014


----------



## zogger

LegDeLimber said:


> managed to get a couple of better shots of the cylinder wall.
> 
> looks pretty rough in there.
> Judging from those lines,
> I'd say the ring's been skipping over a lot of dingle berries.
> Looks like it missed a cleaning step before being plated.
> 
> I used a large straw to gauge the distance to try setting a target for the camera focus.
> In the second pic, the arrows point to a couple of marks in the oil
> that were left from trying to see if I could feel the spot with the straw.



that looks really bad


----------



## Chris-PA

LegDeLimber said:


> managed to get a couple of better shots of the cylinder wall.
> 
> looks pretty rough in there.
> Judging from those lines,
> I'd say the ring's been skipping over a lot of dingle berries.
> Looks like it missed a cleaning step before being plated.
> 
> I used a large straw to gauge the distance to try setting a target for the camera focus.
> In the second pic, the arrows point to a couple of marks in the oil
> that were left from trying to see if I could feel the spot with the straw.


Eewww.


----------



## Modifiedmark

LegDeLimber said:


> managed to get a couple of better shots of the cylinder wall.
> 
> looks pretty rough in there.
> Judging from those lines,
> I'd say the ring's been skipping over a lot of dingle berries.
> Looks like it missed a cleaning step before being plated.
> 
> I used a large straw to gauge the distance to try setting a target for the camera focus.
> In the second pic, the arrows point to a couple of marks in the oil
> that were left from trying to see if I could feel the spot with the straw.



Hard for me to tell but if that spot is bare, I would say its time to use that 2 year warranty, that is if it hasn't been leaned out and partially scored.

I really doubt that one spot would cause a major compression drop.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

JeremiahJohnson said:


> I ran my new 5020 today with new 550 545 and a 346 NE and rebuilt 353 I just finished yesterday. All 16" 3/8 set ups.  Good time and nice mini gtg talk.





3000 FPS said:


> Well what is the opinion?



Being on the $200 under budget like some are. Best bang for the buck right now IMHO on a 50cc saw. I would take the one I have and paid $165 for over a $400 290 JMO.

If I was going to the woods to cut firewood all day. I would have no problems taking the clamshell 5020 with me. 
You can feel the extra 1lb or so PHO weight when switching off saws with those on hand that day. But if your only saw you will never notice it. Plus side it is still almost a pound less then the 290 weight PHO and only 6.5cc smaller.



Plus side they made it so easy to work on compared to the double the price white clamshell ones. 

Now long term who knows not out long enough and the cylinders are different then the 450 husky.


----------



## LegDeLimber

*better focus*

looked through the pics again and realized I missed a better shot.
{note to self, don't sort pics when tired.}
I may try to play with lighting source/type and shoot some more frames
and try to include some other angles.

You can get a better look at shadows from the debris in this frame.
the pink loops surround just some of the easier to spot lumps.
green loops are areas that look to be peeling.
red arrows point to top edge of peel out that runs along a ring mark.
green arrows are a line that covers several lumps/damage spots.

and a duplicate frame without markings, in case I obscured something in the first one.


----------



## Brian B.

How many good experiences vs how many bad experiences with the 5020?

Seems to me to be a fine saw.

"Haters gonna hate"....


----------



## zogger

LegDeLimber said:


> looked through the pics again and realized I missed a better shot.
> {note to self, don't sort pics when tired.}
> I may try to play with lighting source/type and shoot some more frames
> and try to include some other angles.
> 
> You can get a better look at shadows from the debris in this frame.
> the pink loops surround just some of the easier to spot lumps.
> green loops are areas that look to be peeling.
> red arrows point to top edge of peel out that runs along a ring mark.
> green arrows are a line that covers several lumps/damage spots.
> 
> and a duplicate frame without markings, in case I obscured something in the first one.



I believe it is safe to say that there is just no dang good.


----------



## cobey

do you have a warranty?? factory or box store?


----------



## Chris-PA

zogger said:


> I believe it is safe to say that there is just no dang good.


There ya go gettin' all technical again.


----------



## LegDeLimber

Saw is a Lowes item, (hopefully) it should be good on the warranty.

might try getting prints of a couple of the pics to take with me.


----------



## brokenbudget

LegDeLimber said:


> Saw is a Lowes item, (hopefully) it should be good on the warranty.
> 
> might try getting prints of a couple of the pics to take with me.



if they see you've opened it up they might be inclined to void the warranty. best just complain about the comp getting low and loosing power.


----------



## cobey

brokenbudget said:


> if they see you've opened it up they might be inclined to void the warranty. best just complain about the comp getting low and loosing power.


 I bought the warranty they said if i say it dont work i get a new saw :msp_smile: but if you are willing to push hard they will give you another saw anyways I would bet...its a box store :msp_smile::msp_smile:


----------



## LegDeLimber

yeah, I just figured to play it by ear on showing any pics.
...have to see if I get a clerk that's trying to clear the line of customers**
or someone that wants to debate about it and the pics would be in my rebuttal.

**was leaning towards picking a nice weather day to go in 
and let the crowd situation drive that urge to clear the line.


----------



## importjunk

LegDeLimber said:


> yeah, I just figured to play it by ear on showing any pics.
> ...have to see if I get a clerk that's trying to clear the line of customers**
> or someone that wants to debate about it and the pics would be in my rebuttal.
> 
> **was leaning towards picking a nice weather day to go in
> and let the crowd situation drive that urge to clear the line.



Box store returns are quickly processed 5 min. before closing time.


----------



## LegDeLimber

I grabbed the dial calipers and scribbled some notes about the oil pump.
forgot to count the teeth on the plunger, but can check that later if needed.
It's been a while since I tried to sketch up a part, 
so let me know what's missing or doesn't make sense. 
(5 pic limit, so a split posting)


----------



## LegDeLimber

a couple more of the housing.


----------



## LegDeLimber

I stopped at the box store and asked about replacing the ailing short bus saw.
After a phone conversation with someone at the the warrenty co,
it *sounds* like I might end up with the old saw 
and a store credit, in my hands
(just waiting for something to arrive in the mail now)

If so, I'll get to shoot some teardown pics of that lumpy cylinder.


----------



## tomandjerry00

*Can someone post a chain recommendation with link, size, etc?*

Howdy,

I bought my Poulan Pro 5020 and love it! I'll be clearing a bunch of fallen trees off the farm roads next weekend and wanted to pick up a couple extra chains. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to saws so could someone post a link, type, size, etc of a recommended chain for this saw with stock bar? 

I have files and an electric sharpener, but would prefer to saw all day and get the roads clean.

Thanks a lot!

James


----------



## Modifiedmark

tomandjerry00 said:


> Howdy,
> 
> I bought my Poulan Pro 5020 and love it! I'll be clearing a bunch of fallen trees off the farm roads next weekend and wanted to pick up a couple extra chains. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to saws so could someone post a link, type, size, etc of a recommended chain for this saw with stock bar?
> 
> I have files and an electric sharpener, but would prefer to saw all day and get the roads clean.
> 
> Thanks a lot!
> 
> James




You need a 3/8 pitch, .050 gauge chain that's 70 drive links long. 

Sounds like you might like a semi chisel chain instead of a full chisel. They stay sharper longer when cutting dirty stuff. Oregon 72 DP has always done well for me.


----------



## LegDeLimber

*2nd 5020, another bad piston & cylinder.*

Went and picked up another 5020.
got it home and unzip-tied things then took a quick look over. 

Gave a few pulls on the recoil.
Hmm, this one feels weak too. Did a quick check and comp gauge shows 94#

Pulled the muffler and grabbed the camera, Not a pretty sight in there.
Two shots of the piston, one of the intake side of the cylinder
and one of the original factory spark plug


----------



## CTYank

No, oil is not optional in the mix. Really! :msp_mad:

Was this one intended as a replacement? What a maroon!


----------



## LegDeLimber

yes, this one was the warranty replacement. 
I never even put fuel in it, just did the look over and found this mess.


----------



## Modifiedmark

LegDeLimber said:


> Went and picked up another 5020.
> got it home and unzip-tied things then took a quick look over.
> 
> Gave a few pulls on the recoil.
> Hmm, this one feels weak too. Did a quick check and comp gauge shows 94#
> 
> Pulled the muffler and grabbed the camera, Not a pretty sight in there.
> Two shots of the piston, one of the intake side of the cylinder
> and one of the original factory spark plug



You say that came like that new in the box? I have a hard time believing that. In fact I dont.


----------



## LegDeLimber

Modified, I'm taking the compression gauge and torx driver with me 
on the next trip.
The next saw will get checked at the store, before I even bring it home.


----------



## Chris-PA

Where are you getting these? Is it some kind of exchange with the store? There is no way that came from Poulan that way.


----------



## LegDeLimber

Woodheat, I got both of them from the same Lowes store.
There were 3 saws in the store when I got this one
So I picked the highest serial number to hopefully avoid 
getting one from the same batch.


----------



## redunshee

LegDeLimber said:


> Woodheat, I got both of them from the same Lowes store.
> There were 3 saws in the store when I got this one
> So I picked the highest serial number to hopefully avoid
> getting one from the same batch.



Man,something sounds amiss.


----------



## echoshawn

:msp_confused: That looks like straight-gassed damage to me on the 2nd one... Customer return that got "tested" at the store and resealed????


----------



## joe25DA

Can you post some pics of the rest of the saw, the bar, chain, fuel tank clutch cover...if those are "new" saws then lowes or home depot is pulling a fast one on customers and swapping returns on to the shelf. I bet if you pull some covers off you'll find dust and dirt. It wouldn't surprise me, any happy homeowner can walk into a box store pull a saw off a shelf and be a weekend warrior having no education on the tool at all. Not his fault the dummies at the store are clueless too. Long story short a nice saw gets destroyed from regular gas, Poulan, echo whatever. Very rarely is failure caused by anything other than operator error.


----------



## LegDeLimber

Guys I've already taken that one back (this afternoon)

So unfortunately I missed getting any pics of the last poulan,
but without pulling any covers the saw looked unused
i.e. no damage or wear on the bar, new not resharpend chain.
under filter cover carb area looked clean.
top of piston had very little carbon on it.
no scuffs on bottom of saw or elsewhere.
There was an oil film on piston and cylinder wall

But I never fueled up and ran it!


I took a look at the last 5020 that was in in stock, pulled the muffler and spark plug 
and It also had some spots and craters with some corresponding vertical lines.

Guy at the store looked like he wasn't surprised by this 
and said that they had seen a high number of Poulans with compression issues.

So in light of all this I just decided to bail out on the 5020 experience and went for a Husky 450 rancher.


----------



## zogger

LegDeLimber said:


> Woodheat, I got both of them from the same Lowes store.
> There were 3 saws in the store when I got this one
> So I picked the highest serial number to hopefully avoid
> getting one from the same batch.



Dont dork around with customer service, go right to the top manager on duty then. Show him the damage. They are jerking your chain and something just aint right, and they might be doing it to other customers. its one thing to sell cheap a broken thing as is, quite another to try and pass off an obviously borked tool as new.


edit: whoops, should have read to the end. Hope you didnt buy that husky at the same store.


----------



## Modifiedmark

FWIW, I had a retired fella I used to work with ask me the other day what saw him and his boys should get to take down a few trees on the property they just bought. Some were 16" - 20" and after these were done the saw probably wont get used much again except to clean up some stuff now and then and maybe cut up some camp fire wood. 

I told him that the 5020 would be perfect for that use and he said fine he would head to Menards to get one. I told him to bring it by when he got it and I would check it out for him and make sure it was tuned up for him. 

Well he brought it by today and he got a really good deal on it. The Menards in Schererville IN was selling out because there moving to a new, bigger store. He said they only had the display model left and he got it for $165 out the door. 

This one started on the second pull but unlike the first one was set a bit lean on the low side and didnt want to rev up. It took about 1/8 turn rich on the low side and that fixed that. I took it to the wood pile and ended up richening up the high side about 1/8 turn also. If you remember the one that I got that I started this thread about was pretty much right from the get go. 

Other then that it was pretty much good to go right out of the box. Made a couple cuts in a 24" oak log with it and it done fine.


----------



## Modifiedmark

LegDeLimber said:


> Guys I've already taken that one back (this afternoon)
> 
> So unfortunately I missed getting any pics of the last poulan,
> but without pulling any covers the saw looked unused
> i.e. no damage or wear on the bar, new not resharpend chain.
> under filter cover carb area looked clean.
> top of piston had very little carbon on it.
> no scuffs on bottom of saw or elsewhere.
> There was an oil film on piston and cylinder wall
> 
> But I never fueled up and ran it!
> 
> 
> I took a look at the last 5020 that was in in stock, pulled the muffler and spark plug
> and It also had some spots and craters with some corresponding vertical lines.
> 
> Guy at the store looked like he wasn't surprised by this
> and said that they had seen a high number of Poulans with compression issues.
> 
> So in light of all this I just decided to bail out on the 5020 experience and went for a Husky 450 rancher.



Well you didnt take pictures of the 5020 but you did take pictures of the piston and cyl of some saw. 

You should have left the store with a return reciept. How about posting that up.


----------



## cobey

sorry about the bad Poulans! mine has been good so far :msp_smile:


----------



## DSS

I been reading this damn thread long enough. I'm fixin to go find one of these and try it.


----------



## joe25DA

Modifiedmark said:


> Well you didnt take pictures of the 5020 but you did take pictures of the piston and cyl of some saw.
> 
> You should have left the store with a return reciept. How about posting that up.



I dont know about that whole story, but I DO know if that had happened to me id have torn that saw down and found evidence of use. There is no way it would leave the factory with a ruined engine.


----------



## echoshawn

joe25DA said:


> I dont know about that whole story, but I DO know if that had happened to me id have torn that saw down and found evidence of use. There is no way it would leave the factory with a ruined engine.



Do they run these in at all at the factory?


----------



## joe25DA

echoshawn said:


> Do they run these in at all at the factory?



Good question.
I would think if someone got a burned saw from a box store its because it was returned and re-sold.


----------



## LegDeLimber

I've been away from the house this evening.
Give me a few mins to get a pic arranged of the receipts.


----------



## echoshawn

LegDeLimber said:


> I've been away from the house this evening.
> Give me a few mins to get a pic arranged of the receipts.



I could see a big box doing just that. Someone taking one home, straight gassing it , and returning it same day as "not running right".. They look at it, start it, see it runs, and put it back on the shelf for the next guy. 

Couple zip ties to reseal, and wipe it down, good as new.


----------



## LegDeLimber

If you look at the tops, you'll see a progression of staple holes.
The steps of the exchange generated a fair stack of receipts.
Because of the product/brand switch it meant issuing a refund/store credit
then making a "new purchase" action so the stack of receipts
were stapled along as the transactions occurred. 

I found a couple of shots of the top of the saw,
but they are focused on the spark plug sitting on it
So are blurry of the saw itself.
But you can sort of see the saw looks clean.

I realize (now) that I forgot to snap pics of the whole saw,
The pollen has been bad here and I was still a bit fuzzy from benadryle 
when I left to go make the swap.
Sorry for disappointing you guys (and myself) on this one.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

That plug in pic has clearing been in a run saw. My 5020 plug was brand new never ran. I took it out before 1st start to know so and my cylinder looks nothing like those pics posted. :msp_confused:


----------



## LegDeLimber

Jeremiah, The plug in all 3 of the 5020s that I've seen were showing some run time.
Outwardly the saws were clean. 
The first one I had, I actually had the recoil off 
and the bar&chain before putting the saw to wood.
I didn't see any scuffs, dirt, bar nuts rubbed or marks around them...etc.
Just looked like the saw had been test fired and packed.

The one I looked at in the store looked about the same overall.
It just had those specks like you can see in this frame ( p1060145 )
Just ad a more prominent vertical streak across a few of them.

They were most visible in the same area as the lumpy spots in my first 5020
If you are looking in the plug hole from the right rear of the saw
towards front left area.

I wish it had been practical to set up a light and tried getting a pic.


----------



## Modifiedmark

LegDeLimber said:


> If you look at the tops, you'll see a progression of staple holes.
> The steps of the exchange generated a fair stack of receipts.
> Because of the product/brand switch it meant issuing a refund/store credit
> then making a "new purchase" action so the stack of receipts
> were stapled along as the transactions occurred.
> 
> I found a couple of shots of the top of the saw,
> but they are focused on the spark plug sitting on it
> So are blurry of the saw itself.
> But you can sort of see the saw looks clean.
> 
> I realize (now) that I forgot to snap pics of the whole saw,
> The pollen has been bad here and I was still a bit fuzzy from benadryle
> when I left to go make the swap.
> Sorry for disappointing you guys (and myself) on this one.



Thanks for posting that up. 

We had a guy here sometime back with some kinda hard to believe claims about several back to back bad saws from a box store. It sounded so fishy to me that I actually called the store and talked to the manager who told me that there were no returns of that model saw at all so I had to take the posters claims as false.

Still your situation is hard to fathom, but like others have said, this very well could be a single store situation.


----------



## Chris-PA

JeremiahJohnson said:


> That plug in pic has clearing been in a run saw. My 5020 plug was brand new never ran. I took it out before 1st start to know so and my cylinder looks nothing like those pics posted. :msp_confused:



I think that's the key observation. Those deposits are light, but it would take more than a minute or two to build that up. That saw was run.


----------



## Brian B.

That 450 Rancher I'm sure feels very, very, very similar to the 5020.


----------



## Deleted member 83629

bump :hmm3grin2orange: So how is everyones poulan holding up so far mine is still running great i recently installed a new plug,airfilter,fuel filter and tygon lines still running fine though i switched the champion plug over to the ngk version and it is starting quicker.:msp_smile:


----------



## cornfused

*5020av*



jakewells said:


> bump :hmm3grin2orange: So how is everyones poulan holding up so far mine is still running great i recently installed a new plug,airfilter,fuel filter and tygon lines still running fine though i switched the champion plug over to the ngk version and it is starting quicker.:msp_smile:



Mine has about 5 cords under it - changed air filter before the Iowa GTG - runs great & cuts well. It had a small accident when it was 1 month old - got backed over by the skid loader - a few new pieces of plastic and away we went!!!:bang:


----------



## pennsywoodburnr

jakewells said:


> bump :hmm3grin2orange: So how is everyones poulan holding up so far mine is still running great i recently installed a new plug,airfilter,fuel filter and tygon lines still running fine though i switched the champion plug over to the ngk version and it is starting quicker.:msp_smile:



Mine is holding up nicely. Got a couple cords under it with more on the way soon. I'm loving the Oregon 72LGX chisel chains I ordered up.


----------



## brokenbudget

why are the airfilters being changed? i thought they were cleanable:confused2:


----------



## DSS

Stephen C. said:


> Tractor Supply in my area has them on sale for $179:hmm3grin2orange:




No TSC for canucks. I think I saw them for $239 ish here.


----------



## JLT

*No problems at all . . .*

I've been using my 5020 without any problems whatsoever. It splits time evenly with my 031 for the lighter stuff. Going on a year of what I would call moderate use. The sprocket is showing some wear and it will need a new one, probably berfore the end of summer.

It's probably covered somewhere in this encylopedic thread but I don't think I'll live long enough to go through the whole thing, so here's a question - Is there a clutch drum - 3/8" rim sprocket combination that works for the 5020?


----------



## brokenbudget

DSS said:


> No TSC for canucks. I think I saw them for $239 ish here.



we have em. one nearest me is in brockville. the second nearest is an hour away in kemptville. they did have some of the 5020's a year or so ago. they were asking $289 when canadian tire was selling them for $279 regular and $229 on sale.


----------



## Modifiedmark

While at the Iowa gtg, Jim asked me to check the carb tune on his 5020 as he said it had never been touched since new.

I got my carb tool out, started the saw and run it a bit. I then seen that it was already in good tune so I put the carb tool away unused.


----------



## DSS

brokenbudget said:


> we have em. one nearest me is in brockville. the second nearest is an hour away in kemptville. they did have some of the 5020's a year or so ago. they were asking $289 when canadian tire was selling them for $279 regular and $229 on sale.




I did not know that. I think it was canadian tire that had them for $239.


----------



## brokenbudget

DSS said:


> I did not know that. I think it was canadian tire that had them for $239.



i think canadian tire has different pricing for different regions. so it could be they were selling for that "cheap".:msp_smile:


----------



## DSS

brokenbudget said:


> i think canadian tire has different pricing for different regions. so it could be they were selling for that "cheap".:msp_smile:




Maybe it was a misprint. Nothing is "cheap" in PEI.


----------



## cheeves

DSS said:


> No TSC for canucks. I think I saw them for $239 ish here.


Chris, how bout I buy one down here and send it up to yah?! What's the deal on the shipping ect. Do they hassle yah? Dunno never shipped to Canada?


----------



## DSS

cheeves said:


> Chris, how bout I buy one down here and send it up to yah?! What's the deal on the shipping ect. Do they hassle yah? Dunno never shipped to Canada?




By the time I paid for the shipping Bobby I could buy one here. It aint cheap to ship to Canada. But thanks for the thought. I'll get one sooner or later. Lord knows I don't really need another saw.


----------



## wanoyee

I'm new to this site and just spent hours reading up on everything... (whew)

I need a new chainsaw after my old one crapped out. Actually read _almost_ every page of this thread (I must be nuts). However, I'm not your typical AS enthusiast... I'm your typical homeowner and a chainsaw's worst nightmare. With that being said, I can't spend too much on a new chainsaw, but I need one and I'm looking for a good value to do the job I need to do ($200-$300). I need to cut up some fallen trees that are anywhere from 10"-24" wide, then limb them, and cut up for firewood. On a typical yr, I would cut up maybe 1-2 cords per yr. Not a lot. I'd like something with an 18" bar which is what my old chainsaw (Poulan) has. 

I liked what I read about the 5020 but would like an 18" bar on it instead... hence the 4818. What do you experts think about either of those? If I got the 5020, I'd want to put on an 18" bar if there is one that fit as well as a new chain. Which brings me to the 4818... 

Is it the 5020 with an 18" bar? Do you think the 4818 would be comparable in quality to the 5020? Currently they're both the same price. _If you think there's a comparable or better chainsaw for the same price in another brand, I'd love to hear it. _ 

Is the 5020 still holding up as a good value? I come from a product development profession, so I know that after a yr or so out on the market, products can change because they cost reduce stuff, make things cheaper, yet it will still have the same product number while the parts inside could be very different.

Poulan® Pro PP 5020 AV 20 in.
Poulan&reg; Pro PP 5020 AV 20 in. Chainsaw - Tractor Supply Online Store

Poulan PRO PP4818 18 in. 48 cc
Poulan PRO PP4818 18 in. 48 cc Gas Chainsaw-967198201 at The Home Depot

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me. Sorry I'm not a CAD guy... but I can appreciate your enthusiasm. Reminds me of some of my interests I have been involved with on similar levels. I'm kinda leaning towards the 4818 at least until I can see them both of them together.

W.


----------



## wanoyee

Thanks for your reply Stephen C...

I actually went to Home Depot yesterday where they had both of them side by side. Nice to be able to compare them that way. Didn't see an EPA tag, but wasn't looking for it... Both looked like the exact same powerhead, at least externally. 2cc difference? Took off the air filter cover and peeked in... both look the same but that doesn't mean anything. 2 store tags on the 5020, one said 50cc, the other one said 48cc. Hmmm... I would assume all other components are the same in both? They did look well made.

Oddly enough, both had chains on them while all other chainsaws had none. I was able to heft both with real operating weight. Can't say I was really happy with the feel of them. They felt heavy. Tags said 14.9 lbs on the 5020, 14.2 lbs on the 4818. Gave me just enough hesitance to not buy either one despite the good price. Is the weight of these on the heavy side? Or is that pretty much average for something in their class? Anyone have real world experience with the 4818?

Having second thoughts about the Poulan which leads me to an Echo 520 (which I think is lighter) that someone has used... More money (asking $300) but says its in like new condition, 20" bar and chain, striped down, cleaned and inspected, new rings installed. Wondering if spending another $100 is worth it. I read up on Echo 520's for MM and carb adjustments. Any thoughts for comparison if I'm spending $300?

Too much to think about but AboristSite is awesome for all this help and info. You guys are great! Thanks!


----------



## Modifiedmark

wanoyee said:


> Thanks for your reply Stephen C...
> 
> I actually went to Home Depot yesterday where they had both of them side by side. Nice to be able to compare them that way. Didn't see an EPA tag, but wasn't looking for it... Both looked like the exact same powerhead, at least externally. 2cc difference? Took off the air filter cover and peeked in... both look the same but that doesn't mean anything. 2 store tags on the 5020, one said 50cc, the other one said 48cc. Hmmm... I would assume all other components are the same in both? They did look well made.
> 
> Oddly enough, both had chains on them while all other chainsaws had none. I was able to heft both with real operating weight. Can't say I was really happy with the feel of them. They felt heavy. Tags said 14.9 lbs on the 5020, 14.2 lbs on the 4818. Gave me just enough hesitance to not buy either one despite the good price. Is the weight of these on the heavy side? Or is that pretty much average for something in their class? Anyone have real world experience with the 4818?
> 
> Having second thoughts about the Poulan which leads me to an Echo 520 (which I think is lighter) that someone has used... More money (asking $300) but says its in like new condition, 20" bar and chain, striped down, cleaned and inspected, new rings installed. Wondering if spending another $100 is worth it. I read up on Echo 520's for MM and carb adjustments. Any thoughts for comparison if I'm spending $300?
> 
> Too much to think about but AboristSite is awesome for all this help and info. You guys are great! Thanks!



I think you were looking at shipping weights. I posted the real world weights early on in this thread if you care to look. No there not the lightest 50cc saw out there but then at the price point there at any one would be crazy to expect it.

The Echo is probably lighter, but then again it's probably more money as well.

It's the 520 a current model? I don't give much attention to those.


----------



## wanoyee

Stephen C. said:


> I have 62 chainsaws.



...??!!! Guess you can't ever have too many!


----------



## wanoyee

Modifiedmark said:


> I think you were looking at shipping weights. I posted the real world weights early on in this thread if you care to look. No there not the lightest 50cc saw out there but then at the price point there at any one would be crazy to expect it.
> 
> The Echo is probably lighter, but then again it's probably more money as well.
> 
> It's the 520 a current model? I don't give much attention to those.



I did reread the post and found the real wt you posted = 16.8 lbs w/fuel & oil. Thanks! Something just didn't feel right when I was holding them even without fuel and oil. I like the price, don't like the weight. I'll be cutting more small wood than bigger wood as well as doing lots of limbing (?). 

Don't know about the 520 as being current... I don't think it's a grey model but newer. I've sent questions to the guy who does this as a part-time biz. Wonder if he is on AS. I mentioned the MM and carb tuning for it. Waiting for answers. Thanks much.


----------



## FergusonTO35

If anybody wants to try one of these saws for cheap there is one on Fleabay right now. The sellers says he cut up a few trees with it and doesn't need it anymore. Its at $85.00 + 24.05 shipping with no bidders and 2 days to go. It's listed as "Poulan Pro 20 in 50 cc chainsaw" and is supposed to come with an extra chain.


----------



## 3000 FPS

FergusonTO35 said:


> If anybody wants to try one of these saws for cheap there is one on Fleabay right now. The sellers says he cut up a few trees with it and doesn't need it anymore. Its at $85.00 + 24.05 shipping with no bidders and 2 days to go. It's listed as "Poulan Pro 20 in 50 cc chainsaw" and is supposed to come with an extra chain.



His shipping is 63.00 not 24.


----------



## CTYank

wanoyee said:


> I did reread the post and found the real wt you posted = 16.8 lbs w/fuel & oil. Thanks! Something just didn't feel right when I was holding them even without fuel and oil. I like the price, don't like the weight. I'll be cutting more small wood than bigger wood as well as doing lots of limbing (?).
> 
> Don't know about the 520 as being current... I don't think it's a grey model but newer. I've sent questions to the guy who does this as a part-time biz. Wonder if he is on AS. I mentioned the MM and carb tuning for it. Waiting for answers. Thanks much.



I've had a 5020 for a year and change so far. Weight ready to run is a tad over 15 lbs. I hold a saw with both hands, so that's no problem here- weight helps for bucking besides.

The 20" bar is actually 19" by the tape. No problem either way here, since it works fine for most felling & bucking here, and just gets it done. Not best suited for limbing and cutting smaller stuff.

That's what lightweight saws are for- much less fatiguing for limbing deciduous trees, and much safer.

That's also what a 2-saw plan is about. You WILL get one stuck if you're really trying. It will happen.


----------



## Modifiedmark

wanoyee said:


> I did reread the post and found the real wt you posted = 16.8 lbs w/fuel & oil. Thanks! Something just didn't feel right when I was holding them even without fuel and oil. I like the price, don't like the weight. I'll be cutting more small wood than bigger wood as well as doing lots of limbing (?).
> 
> Don't know about the 520 as being current... I don't think it's a grey model but newer. I've sent questions to the guy who does this as a part-time biz. Wonder if he is on AS. I mentioned the MM and carb tuning for it. Waiting for answers. Thanks much.



Maybe you should be looking at even smaller saws if you think the 5020 is way too heavy. 12lbs 6oz is over a full pound less then the Stihl 029 super which isn't much more displacement at 55cc and Stihl sells the heck out of them without much complaints.


----------



## fossil

wanoyee said:


> I did reread the post and found the real wt you posted = 16.8 lbs w/fuel & oil. Thanks! Something just didn't feel right when I was holding them even without fuel and oil. I like the price, don't like the weight. I'll be cutting more small wood than bigger wood as well as doing lots of limbing (?).
> 
> Don't know about the 520 as being current... I don't think it's a grey model but newer. I've sent questions to the guy who does this as a part-time biz. Wonder if he is on AS. I mentioned the MM and carb tuning for it. Waiting for answers. Thanks much.



Dropping to a 16" bar and chain will make the saw feel much lighter and the balance will be more centered. It will also cut faster.


----------



## FergusonTO35

> His shipping is 63.00 not 24.



It was 24.00 when I looked at it a few hours ago.


----------



## wanoyee

FergusonTO35 said:


> If anybody wants to try one of these saws for cheap there is one on Fleabay right now. The sellers says he cut up a few trees with it and doesn't need it anymore. Its at $85.00 + 24.05 shipping with no bidders and 2 days to go. It's listed as "Poulan Pro 20 in 50 cc chainsaw" and is supposed to come with an extra chain.



I've bought tons of stuff off ebay including my last 4 computers and ipad. But, I'm just a little leary of buying something like a used chainsaw online. Could be a pos that looks nice but the owner ran it into the ground. Although I have been looking at the Echo 400 (new ones). They're going for about $250 w/shipping.

If I knew more about chainsaws, I'd consider buying used. I just don't know what I'm looking at right now and what the value is.


----------



## wanoyee

FergusonTO35 said:


> It was 24.00 when I looked at it a few hours ago.



I think it all matters where he's shipping to... usually your zip code gets entered automatically to generate shipping fees.


----------



## wanoyee

Modifiedmark said:


> Maybe you should be looking at even smaller saws if you think the 5020 is way too heavy. 12lbs 6oz is over a full pound less then the Stihl 029 super which isn't much more displacement at 55cc and Stihl sells the heck out of them without much complaints.



Well it's not _waaay_ too heavy, but I was a little surprised by the weight. You guys who cut all the time are used to using something like this probably. Me, I got to get rid of my girly arms and build up some chainsaw manliness... :msp_biggrin: ...just kidding. However, I'm not sure the 5020 meets my needs after looking at it. If anything, I would get the 4818. My old chainsaw was a 40cc with 18" bar, so something like that with a little more power would be good. Was looking at the Echo CS400... going new on ebay for about $250 as well as what I can get from Stihl and Husky.


----------



## FergusonTO35

Waynoee, new CS-400's go for $200.00 or so on EBay all the time. I think alot of dealers are overstocked on them.


----------



## wanoyee

Stephen C. said:


> ...Most of the displays I have seen at the big box stores place the saws at the worse possible elevation for feeling the weight. I am 6 foot and 220. The first time I picked up a 6400 Makita I thought what the heck. This thing is unusable. Then I realized I don't often use one chest high.



Agree... Went to Lowes just to check what they have and handle some Huskys. Shelf was chest height and wire security cord prevented me from bringing it to useable height. Went to Home Depot because they had the Poulan 5020 and 4818 in stock side by side... Neither was tethered. I was able to lift and play with it however I wanted. I didn't think there was much difference between the 5020 and 4818. At least not as much as I expected. 




FergusonTO35 said:


> Waynoee, new CS-400's go for $200.00 or so on EBay all the time. I think alot of dealers are overstocked on them.


Well that's better than what I found. The CS400 is pretty similar to what I'm trying to replace except probably a better saw all around.

For some reason, I am intrigued by a used Echo 520 about an hour away from me... Guy works on chainsaws as hobby/part-time job for himself. Says he has this:
_I have a perfect like new Echo CS 520 for sale' It has a like new 20" bar and chain. This saw was striped down, cleaned and inspected. New rings installed. The saw was in nice condition when traded in. I don't think the saw had more then a few tanks of fuel run through it. I take in trades and do repairs. All saw's come with a 30 day warranty._

Wants $300. Is it worth it? and what should I look for when I inspect it?


----------



## Modifiedmark

wanoyee said:


> Agree... Went to Lowes just to check what they have and handle some Huskys. Shelf was chest height and wire security cord prevented me from bringing it to useable height. Went to Home Depot because they had the Poulan 5020 and 4818 in stock side by side... Neither was tethered. I was able to lift and play with it however I wanted. I didn't think there was much difference between the 5020 and 4818. At least not as much as I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's better than what I found. The CS400 is pretty similar to what I'm trying to replace except probably a better saw all around.
> 
> For some reason, I am intrigued by a used Echo 520 about an hour away from me... Guy works on chainsaws as hobby/part-time job for himself. Says he has this:
> _I have a perfect like new Echo CS 520 for sale' It has a like new 20" bar and chain. This saw was striped down, cleaned and inspected. New rings installed. The saw was in nice condition when traded in. I don't think the saw had more then a few tanks of fuel run through it. I take in trades and do repairs. All saw's come with a 30 day warranty._
> 
> Wants $300. Is it worth it? and what should I look for when I inspect it?



$300 for a used 520? Yeah ok, what kind of warranty comes with that?


----------



## redunshee

Modifiedmark said:


> $300 for a used 520? Yeah ok, what kind of warranty comes with that?



Thought I was up early!


----------



## fossil

wanoyee said:


> Agree... Went to Lowes just to check what they have and handle some Huskys. Shelf was chest height and wire security cord prevented me from bringing it to useable height. Went to Home Depot because they had the Poulan 5020 and 4818 in stock side by side... Neither was tethered. I was able to lift and play with it however I wanted. I didn't think there was much difference between the 5020 and 4818. At least not as much as I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's better than what I found. The CS400 is pretty similar to what I'm trying to replace except probably a better saw all around.
> 
> For some reason, I am intrigued by a used Echo 520 about an hour away from me... Guy works on chainsaws as hobby/part-time job for himself. Says he has this:
> _I have a perfect like new Echo CS 520 for sale' It has a like new 20" bar and chain. This saw was striped down, cleaned and inspected. New rings installed. The saw was in nice condition when traded in. I don't think the saw had more then a few tanks of fuel run through it. I take in trades and do repairs. All saw's come with a 30 day warranty._
> 
> Wants $300. Is it worth it? and what should I look for when I inspect it?



That sounds awful high for a used 15 year old or so Echo. I think there are better 50cc saws out there for that money.


----------



## wanoyee

Modifiedmark said:


> $300 for a used 520? Yeah ok, what kind of warranty comes with that?



Hmmm, so I'm guessing he's asking too much? Giving 30 day warranty. Maybe I should stick to new...
His latest reply to my questions:

_Do you happen to have any pics of the Echo 520? What yr was it built? Is it a 20" bar? And you say it's like new?

Hi, no pictures, looks like new, runs like new is in perfect condition, has 20" bar & chain, Its about 3 years old_

If what he says is true, what is the going price for the 520?


----------



## wanoyee

Stephen C. said:


> this is the "used" 152 that I bought from a member here. I paid his asking price. ($100) You can get the larger version of this saw, a 156 with a 5 year warrantee on clearance from Menards for $30 more than the rebuilt saw you are considering.



That's a nice looking Efco! Looks like new. That's what I would like to find! Menard's?...



Stephen C. said:


> I would be concerned that a chainsaw guy would tear down a low hour saw and replace the ring. Something not right about that.



I had the same concern... Wondering if someone would catch that. Could it be the saw was run straight from the box and run too lean, not adjusted properly?


----------



## cmarti

wanoyee said:


> That's a nice looking Efco! Looks like new. That's what I would like to find! Menard's?...
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same concern... Wondering if someone would catch that. Could it be the saw was run straight from the box and run too lean, not adjusted properly?



You are fretting too much, You are already up to 10 posts, so you have been exposed to the sickness. Just buy a saw, you are going to want another one. It will not matter if you spend $200 or $900, you will buy another one. I came here trying to get a Poulan Pro carb problem fixed, I am now grinding cylinders with a dremel. I have bought new from a box store and a dealer. I have bought off E-bay, I have picked up at garage sales and flea markets. Even free saws, cost money for rebuild parts, filters, bars and chains. Just do it.... Just buy a saw, have fun cutting and running, make your wife mad, and tell us what you think of what you bought. Then ask us what you should buy next:msp_smile:


----------



## FergusonTO35

He speaks truth. "Free" machinery costs way more than new in terms of time and aggravation. Pretty soon you'll decide its a smart idea to pick up a couple of complete parts saws for less than actually buying the parts you need. Wrong! You'll find they don't really need that much to get going, which necessitates buying parts or more parts saws. Then, people will hear you fix chainsaws and will start giving you old saws, which means you now have more saws to fix up or you can fix up the saws which you previously acquired for parts. See how this happens? 90% of my recreation time the last month has been spent working on "free"machinery.


----------



## wanoyee

cmarti said:


> You are fretting too much, You are already up to 10 posts, so you have been exposed to the sickness. Just buy a saw, you are going to want another one...



Ohhh NNOOOooooooooooooo....!!! How did that happen?... I got sucked in. You guys are evil. All I did was ask about a Poulan 5020...


----------



## brokenbudget

wanoyee said:


> Ohhh NNOOOooooooooooooo....!!! How did that happen?... I got sucked in. You guys are evil. All I did was ask about a Poulan 5020...



just wait. there's a husky 555 around the corner


----------



## kingcheez

I have the PP5020 as well i canned the 20 inch bar for a 16 inch and it really screams...outcuts the Husky 455 imo


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

TSC has the 5020 for $179.99 right now. :msp_wink:


----------



## Modifiedmark

Stephen C. said:


> been like that for a couple weeks.....I am avoiding themopcorn: The one that got lost in shipping was 159 from Amazon.... I think I need to go tune up my Partner P85 to get my mind off it...



At least your still able to be man enough to lift the P-85, newbies fret on picking up a 5020.


----------



## Modifiedmark

JeremiahJohnson said:


> TSC has the 5020 for $179.99 right now. :msp_wink:



Less then $200 out the door. Can't beat that anywhere for a saw like this.


----------



## DSS

Modifiedmark said:


> Less then $200 out the door. Can't beat that anywhere for a saw like this.




I wish you'd stop telling me that already.


----------



## Modifiedmark

DSS said:


> I wish you'd stop telling me that already.



The truth must be hurtin on you? :msp_biggrin:

Don't worry about it, you don't need one anymore then I do. Then again need usually don't matter does it?


----------



## DSS

Modifiedmark said:


> The truth must be hurtin on you? :msp_biggrin:
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry about it, you don't need one anymore then I do. Then again need usually don't matter does it?




If need was in the equation I'd have about 40 less saws. But I really do think I need one of these. I can justify it with some kind of BS I'm sure.


----------



## zogger

DSS said:


> If need was in the equation I'd have about 40 less saws. But I really do think I need one of these. I can justify it with some kind of BS I'm sure.




Look out, over yonder!!! Zombies!! BRANESSS!!!!!!


Man, every boy needs a PP5020AV in case of zombies!


----------



## fossil

DSS said:


> If need was in the equation I'd have about 40 less saws. But I really do think I need one of these. I can justify it with some kind of BS I'm sure.



That's a mooooooot point


----------



## DSS

fossil said:


> That's a mooooooot point


----------



## Caz

Excellent thread Mark. Picked one up yesterday for 162$. Gonna try it out today : )


----------



## Modifiedmark

Caz said:


> Excellent thread Mark. Picked one up yesterday for 162$. Gonna try it out today : )



Good price. 

Safety man at work picked one up last week after I recommended one to him after he was asking which one to buy for some storm cleanup and once in a while firewood work. 

I checked it out for him and found it to be a bit lean on the low side and it took about 1/8 a turn rich to fix it. I have now had 4 of them I'm my hands and two were just right out of the box and two were a little lean on the low side. 

No complaints from any if the owners at all, there very pleased so far.


----------



## Caz

I returned the first one this morning because it constantly dripped oil. The second one does too but not quite as bad. Is this common ?


----------



## clintonior

did anyone woods port the PP5020 yet?


----------



## zogger

clintonior said:


> did anyone woods port the PP5020 yet?



I don't recall a reference to that yet or a writeup with pics and vids. It should happen though. I believe it has been suggested numerous times as a buildoff saw, but..those guys like big saws, hotrods.

I am finally seeing them used and starting to be cheaper on CL, but not close enough distance wise or cheap enough for me to get one. I do free to 10 bucks on modern poulans, I would go 20 on a used one needing not much and in decent shape with acceptable bar and chain, etc., but that's it. I have stacks of saws now, don't need to spend a lot to have "enough" saws. I really can't afford new saws, even if they are "just" 200, that's actually a couple of jacksons more than a week's gross income for me...or, how I like to think of it, a lot of dog and catfood, go through around 50-60 clams a week there for the rescue critters here.

I made one exception to my "no more new saws" regimen in the last 3 years, but that was the TSC husky blowout when they went to johnnyred, which is still virgin, and keeping it that way, just a little 435, which I got even cheaper then those online "refurbs" by a lot, the local manager likes me and had held one back and I didn't know it until I asked...thought they were all gone when I went in there, nope, backroom special...thought that was a nice gesture..


----------



## Modifiedmark

Caz said:


> I returned the first one this morning because it constantly dripped oil. The second one does too but not quite as bad. Is this common ?



Those oilers put out a lot of oil and there will be a substantial amount of oil to run off of it for a while when shut off. I don't think there is any actual problems with oil leaking any other place on them. 

Just part of the beast. If you think that's a problem, just be glad you didn't pay over $800 like I did for a new Dolmar that will leak like hell for a month or when the oil tank runs dry when shut off. At least the 5020 will stop leaking when the residual oil has dripped off of it.


----------



## dpdguns

just bought a 5020 at lowes $152 because of the reviews. I see the biggest complaint is the chain without having to read 52 pages what is the best replacement chain for the saw. I do sharpen my own with a file and some times with my elcheapo HF electric sharpner.


----------



## rms61moparman

dpdguns said:


> just bought a 5020 at lowes $152 because of the reviews. I see the biggest complaint is the chain without having to read 52 pages what is the best replacement chain for the saw. I do sharpen my own with a file and some times with my elcheapo HF electric sharpner.





That question is an octopus.
The more you roll it around the more legs you will find.
The simple answer is Oregon LGX or LPX, if you want to stay with the 3/8ths full chisel.
Others will say Stihl RSC.
If you are going to convert the saw to .325 chain, I like the Oregon 20LP real well, and I understand the Woodland Pro makes a good .325 chain.

There will be myriad answers to your question depending on what you're cutting needs are.

Hardwood/softwood
clean/dirty
brush clearing/felling firewood
heavy usage/light homeowner use

The list goes on and on.


Mike


----------



## dpdguns

yeah see I am a newbie when it comes to chainsaws. I am just looking for an easy to find chain that will perform good in all woods and conditions not really looking to change bars or anything yet just looking for a good performing all around chain. Any chance on a quick breakdown of chains for a newbie???


----------



## redheadwoodshed

They are still over 200 at the lowes around my house.


----------



## dswensen

*Ummm, me too.*



dpdguns said:


> I am just looking for an easy to find chain that will perform good in all woods and conditions.



Aren't we all, brother, aren't we all?


----------



## zogger

dpdguns said:


> yeah see I am a newbie when it comes to chainsaws. I am just looking for an easy to find chain that will perform good in all woods and conditions not really looking to change bars or anything yet just looking for a good performing all around chain. Any chance on a quick breakdown of chains for a newbie???




Did you look in the stickies up above? That's what "stickies" on any forum are for. Here is a basic chainsaw FAQ or frequently asked question thread. It will have a plethora of information you could use. Including about chains.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw-stickies/148248.htm


----------



## cobey

dpdguns said:


> just bought a 5020 at lowes $152 because of the reviews. I see the biggest complaint is the chain without having to read 52 pages what is the best replacement chain for the saw. I do sharpen my own with a file and some times with my elcheapo HF electric sharpner.


 3/8 pitch, .050 gauge, 70 drive links..... I called chainsaw r he set me up. they really like a 16" bar, they use a small husky mount A095
mine got a 16" bar and never went back to the 20" if you let them idle they continue to pump oil when they run even if the chain isnt turning the pump is driven off the crank not the clutch. happy sawing:msp_biggrin:


----------



## dpdguns

redheadwoodshed said:


> They are still over 200 at the lowes around my house.



Well Lowes price match's so they price matched Menards who has it on sale for $179.00 then took an extra 10% off . I know menards and tractor supply both have them for $179 right now so if you have one with in 50 miles of a lowes they have to price match + 10%.

You are right i did not look at the sticky's I should have dumb me. I just figured with everybody on this thread trying this same saw somebody might have come up with a good big box available chain that was better than the stock one.


----------



## brokenbudget

dpdguns said:


> Well Lowes price match's so they price matched Menards who has it on sale for $179.00 then took an extra 10% off . I know menards and tractor supply both have them for $179 right now so if you have one with in 50 miles of a lowes they have to price match + 10%.
> 
> You are right i did not look at the sticky's I should have dumb me. I just figured with everybody on this thread trying this same saw somebody might have come up with a good big box available chain that was better than the stock one.





'good chain' and 'big box' don't go together.


----------



## dpdguns

brokenbudget said:


> 'good chain' and 'big box' don't go together.



yeah I know but was hoping for something that should be available most places not a mail order only chain


----------



## rms61moparman

dpdguns said:


> yeah I know but was hoping for something that should be available most places not a mail order only chain





ANY ****** dealer should have a chain for you.
Remember the specs you were given a few posts ago and go get'cha one.


Mike


----------



## zogger

dpdguns said:


> Well Lowes price match's so they price matched Menards who has it on sale for $179.00 then took an extra 10% off . I know menards and tractor supply both have them for $179 right now so if you have one with in 50 miles of a lowes they have to price match + 10%.
> 
> You are right i did not look at the sticky's I should have dumb me. I just figured with everybody on this thread trying this same saw somebody might have come up with a good big box available chain that was better than the stock one.



As far as I know, no big box chain stores carry anything but safety chain, and bad quality at that. You have to specify at a real dealer, like a husky or stihl dealer, that you want pro chain, of such and such drivelink count.pitch/gauge.

I run safety chain on some saws, but I wouldn't buy it new either. I get used loops mostly and clean them up and sharpen them. I much prefer my used pro chains over the safety chains, but some saws it doesn't matter so I use those safety chains on those. Felling saws, nope. do not want safety chain there, want actual for real will be cuttin chain.

Safety chains have extra humps/bumps or the worst, folded over sharkfins, that make them much harder to sharpen and make it impossible to bore cut or even run a kerf across a log for splitting (or pret near impossible). The extra safety features interfere with the depth gauge and it takes a lot of filing to bring them down correctly. 

But..they do act as a safety feature, they keep the very tip of the bar from digging in, so they help to avoid unexpected kickback. Kickback is not a joke. With that said, the best way to avoid kickback is know, not guess, but know, where your bar tip is, and keep your face and body out of the "plane" of the bar, stand to the side. They can kick back and up, or straight out of a log.

Check it out yourself with your safety chain, pull a chain by hand around the end of the bar, you will see how the safety bumps ride up and block the cutters from getting a bite. What used to be a normal chain and is now a pro chain, only has the cutter and depth gauge.

As to the FAQ, I wish it was more prominent on the main page, get guys to read that first, ton of good basic background information. A lot of things on chainsaws are universal, so similar as to not matter, analysis of no start conditions for instance.


----------



## Modifiedmark

zogger said:


> .
> 
> Safety chains have extra humps/bumps or the worst, folded over sharkfins, that make them much harder to sharpen and make it impossible to bore cut or even run a kerf across a log for splitting (or pret near impossible). The extra safety features interfere with the depth gauge and it takes a lot of filing to bring them down correctly.



I disagree with all that quoted above. The Vanguard chain your trying to mention is much better then most any other safety chain out there. Its no harder to sharpen either if you care to figure out how to do it and Oregon even has a guide on filing the rakers on it. You should look it up and read it. Have you ever even tried 72V chain? Have you ever bore cut with it? 

You want to see some weird worthless safety chain, look at some of Stihls chains. I just worked one over last night.


----------



## zogger

Modifiedmark said:


> I disagree with all that quoted above. The Vanguard chain your trying to mention is much better then most any other safety chain out there. Its no harder to sharpen either if you care to figure out how to do it and Oregon even has a guide on filing the rakers on it. You should look it up and read it. Have you ever even tried 72V chain? Have you ever bore cut with it?
> 
> You want to see some weird worthless safety chain, look at some of Stihls chains. I just worked one over last night.



I don't like the folded over vanguard very much at all. What I have for guides are some husky roller guides and husky branded pferd holds two files guides. With those it seems difficult. I'll look and see if there is a better way to do them, but..preferences are for just normal chain most of the time. Besides that, just freehand, I don't own and have never used a chain grinder.

Like I said, I use both as the situation warrants and depending on what I have with me/handy. I wind up using a lot of safety chain, but I don't like them all that much, any of the styles.

I will look on Oregon's site and find this method you are referring to, because if there is an easier/better way, sure, I'll do it that way then. I don't know a thing with files other than push them across the metal you are filing. More metal in contact=harder to file. Not seeing how you can avoid the sharkfin once you start dropping down, but I will look again.

And I have tried bore cutting with sharkfin and it wouldn't work. That's why I posted that. If there is a way to make it work, that's cool with me. I will take a look.


----------



## DSS

Vanguard is not sharkfin. Vanguard is folded raker. There's a fancy way to file it but I just give the rakers one swipe every time I sharpen it and it works ok. It will bore cut and noodle and anything else you want to do, just not as well as normal chain. As far as safety chain goes, its probably the best out there.


----------



## zogger

DSS said:


> Vanguard is not sharkfin. Vanguard is folded raker. There's a fancy way to file it but I just give the rakers one swipe every time I sharpen it and it works ok. It will bore cut and noodle and anything else you want to do, just not as well as normal chain. As far as safety chain goes, its probably the best out there.



I downloaded two different PDFs from oregon and yes, I am thinking of some other folded over chain I have someplace that I have dorked around with. The vanguard from the drawing is folded but tapered down, so you don't need to file much metal. I can see that in the drawings. . Some other I have seen is way flatter on the sharkfin, you have to file near the whole surface area. I also did not specify vanguard in my original post, just said some folded over sharkfin looking stuff. What it is, don't remember now. If it is the same, and I am remembering wrong (quite possible), oh well. I just remember it sucking to file the depth gauge.

Most of the saws I use frequently all have regular chain on them, but I do hang on to any cheap chain I scrounge up, and will use it.

Either way, if ya'all like and/or prefer that vanguard chain, that's cool with me, I just still prefer regular old plain jane chain given a choice.

But I will say, I like the powersharp chain and sharpening system, for off the wall unconventional chain.


----------



## DSS

I don't prefer vanguard, but if you're going to run safety chain I think its the best type. Good homeowner chain. 

Most of what I run is non safety semi chisel, almost everything I cut is dirty.


----------



## zogger

DSS said:


> I don't prefer vanguard, but if you're going to run safety chain I think its the best type. Good homeowner chain.
> 
> Most of what I run is non safety semi chisel, almost everything I cut is dirty.



I just am wondering if there is non oregon non vanguard brand X folded over raker chain out there. I went back and looked at some old posts around the site and can't find exactly what I think I am remembering. a lot of references and negs on vanguard though. all similar, like this here: "it works, but...."

Anyway, I don't like it very much at all. It is doable (for me) to sharpen but seems to take a very long time and use a lot more file to do it. File and filing time. Ya, other species of safety chain are..well..just no fun either. I *use* them, have been turned on to and bought a lot of them used (local shop will sell me customer no shows chain they have sharpened for cheap), but I won't buy any "new" safety chain, any brand/style. Just ain't gonna...


----------



## Modifiedmark

zogger said:


> I just am wondering if there is non oregon non vanguard brand X folded over raker chain out there. I went back and looked at some old posts around the site and can't find exactly what I think I am remembering. a lot of references and negs on vanguard though. all similar, like this here: "it works, but...."
> 
> Anyway, I don't like it very much at all. It is doable (for me) to sharpen but seems to take a very long time and use a lot more file to do it. File and filing time. Ya, other species of safety chain are..well..just no fun either. I *use* them, have been turned on to and bought a lot of them used (local shop will sell me customer no shows chain they have sharpened for cheap), but I won't buy any "new" safety chain, any brand/style. Just ain't gonna...



Hey it ain't my favorite either but its no harder to sharpen the cutter then any other full cutter chisel chain, the cutter itself is the same, the raker is the only thing different about it. 

Roller guides are for people who are not proficient in sharpening chains IMO.


----------



## Modifiedmark

DSS said:


> I don't prefer vanguard, but if you're going to run safety chain I think its the best type. Good homeowner chain.
> 
> Most of what I run is non safety semi chisel, almost everything I cut is dirty.



I concur..


----------



## CTYank

zogger said:


> I just am wondering if there is non oregon non vanguard brand X folded over raker chain out there. I went back and looked at some old posts around the site and can't find exactly what I think I am remembering. a lot of references and negs on vanguard though. all similar, like this here: "it works, but...."
> 
> Anyway, I don't like it very much at all. It is doable (for me) to sharpen but seems to take a very long time and use a lot more file to do it. File and filing time. Ya, other species of safety chain are..well..just no fun either. I *use* them, have been turned on to and bought a lot of them used (local shop will sell me customer no shows chain they have sharpened for cheap), but I won't buy any "new" safety chain, any brand/style. Just ain't gonna...



All chain I file, I do with Granberg's guide, including OEM Vanguard chains on 455r and PP5020. Dunno how they're giving you probs sharpening them, but they give me NONE. Normally a couple strokes/tooth to touch them up is all it takes, with no special consumption of files. (Files seem to last very long with that guide- still have some from ZipPenn.)

Only thing I don't like with that chain is the abrupt transition from sharp -> dull with the full chisel cutters. Still using up (slowly) some chipper chains from days of yore- hard to kill, and don't go instantly dull.

Still, much better IMHO than chains with the camel-hump on the straps. Bore like spit. :msp_thumbdn:


----------



## 3000 FPS

I am afraid the last vangaurd chain that I sharpened I ground all the angles off of the rakers and then put a square grind on it. I think it is on a PP395.

I do have a 455R also with the original vanguard chain and it does seem to cut ok. But I was only using it on beetle kill pine at the time. I will probably leave it that way because when I ground the angle off the rakers they do become alittle to short. In soft wood ok but in hard wood to grabby.


----------



## old guy

I just picked up one of these in Craftsman colors fer a hunnerd bucks, the guy said he had it for a year & a half and only cut a couple of small trees.
The chain had never been sharpened and it was still razor sharp, this saw is like new.

My question is what should I get for RPMs at wot? My tach says 13000, got good plug color. thanks

John


----------



## Brian B.

I cut "fatwood", "heart of pine", "pine knot" with my 5020 a good part of Sunday- just kept her at 1/3- 1/2 throttle and she cut just fine, brought home about 1000 lbs of fatwood, second trip like that now- and two to three trips left in this little spot we are cutting in.

Pine knot- that stuff is GOLD!

Still digging my 5020.


----------



## Modifiedmark

old guy said:


> I just picked up one of these in Craftsman colors fer a hunnerd bucks, the guy said he had it for a year & a half and only cut a couple of small trees.
> The chain had never been sharpened and it was still razor sharp, this saw is like new.
> 
> My question is what should I get for RPMs at wot? My tach says 13000, got good plug color. thanks
> 
> John



John go back and read the first few pages of this thread again, I know I listed some tach readings. 

13K sounds bout right far as I can remember.


----------



## rms61moparman

Brian B. said:


> I cut "fatwood", "heart of pine", "pine knot" with my 5020 a good part of Sunday- just kept her at 1/3- 1/2 throttle and she cut just fine, brought home about 1000 lbs of fatwood, second trip like that now- and two to three trips left in this little spot we are cutting in.
> 
> Pine knot- that stuff is GOLD!
> 
> Still digging my 5020.





Not really the best thing to run a saw other than idle or WOT.
But do what you want and what works for you.


Mike


----------



## Brian B.

WOT seems to heat up the chain. I hear what you are saying though, done fatwood both ways- WOT seems to abuse the. Saw.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Old post on my test mule.

OUT OF THE BOX NEW a homeowner sawer would get disgusted pretty quick IMO. The saw carb was off the mark on L and I.

I checked factory settings and then put them back to see. L was 1.5 and H was 2 - 2.5 out (sorry cant remember H off hand).

It would start and not idle and shut off. Start and bog giving throttle. 

I kept adjusting the carb till I ended up with about 3 out on L and left 2-2.5 on H at about 12.8K. Turned the I idle up too. Reminds me of the redmax carb and settings (which through me for a loop when I 1st got it), not like the 1 to 1.5 turns out we get used to.


----------



## old guy

Modifiedmark said:


> John go back and read the first few pages of this thread again, I know I listed some tach readings.
> 
> 13K sounds bout right far as I can remember.



Ya know, I read those first pages 3 times and did not see it but this time there it was on page one.:msp_rolleyes: thanks Mark

John


----------



## joe25DA

Brian B. said:


> WOT seems to heat up the chain. I hear what you are saying though, done fatwood both ways- WOT seems to abuse the. Saw.



Mike is right about running a saw at idle or WOT. The fan on the flywheel cools the engine, faster the rpm, the more air gets blown through the fins. As far as the bar and chain goes, the auto oiler will preven abuse. It's driven off the crank and as long as you have oil your all set. Faster the rpms, more oil. Running at 7000 rpm won't help anything


----------



## kingcheez

Is the new Craftsman 50cc the same as this...i assume so ...also are you guys taking the exhaust screen out and what are you setting the high carb screw at - i had to lean mine out a tad


----------



## old guy

Yeah, mine is the craftsman, it's the same saw, I set mine at 13000 with a tach and with my homemade tool it's hard to tell how far out the screw is. I did take the screen out.

John


----------



## CTYank

kingcheez said:


> Is the new Craftsman 50cc the same as this...i assume so ...also are you guys taking the exhaust screen out and what are you setting the high carb screw at - i had to lean mine out a tad



The spark-arrester screen is there to trap glowing chunks of carbon that might be tossed, and really pizz off Smokey by burning down his abode.

Betcha can't measure any power difference, anyhow.

You must have one in place on federal property, and ditto some states (e.g. ME) anywhere, for like 30+ years now.

All my saws have one, and even then sometimes a spark slips by. Gotta really watch that in the moisture-starved west.

You adjust High carb needle to get 2-stroking in the cut with some 4-stroking when you lift, keeping @WOT. Can't get it better than that. Essentially what "Auto-Tune" does automatically.


----------



## Dave Jenkins

My 5020, which I've used several times, is putting out too much oil to the bar. Is there any way to adjust this?

I will have quite a few more comments about this saw and some pix later.

Dave Jenkins


----------



## old guy

The oil pump is run by the crankshaft rather than the clutch so if it sits in one place while it is running it will make quite a mess, there is no adjustment.

John


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

I like the oiler on the 5020. Rather have oil on the bar then like stihl oilers. 


I had put my new 20" set up on the 5020 that came with it and thought about it now. I didnt like the 20" 3/8 set up on my 550xp so why in the world would I put a 20" on the 5020 :msp_scared:. Going back out to put the 16" 3/8 set up back on and call it 5016 again.


----------



## Dave Jenkins

old guy said:


> The oil pump is run by the crankshaft rather than the clutch so if it sits in one place while it is running it will make quite a mess, there is no adjustment.
> 
> John



Thanks, John. Not exactly what I wanted to hear!:msp_thumbdn:


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Dave Jenkins said:


> Thanks, John. Not exactly what I wanted to hear!:msp_thumbdn:



What bar oil you running? I am thinking try something with a little more tackifer in it and thicker.


----------



## Dave Jenkins

It's the Poulan oil in the green jug.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Dave Jenkins said:


> It's the Poulan oil in the green jug.



Try the poulan in the black jug that says poulan pro. Seems thicker and tacker to me. Might not make a difference but if you have choice try it.


----------



## Dave Jenkins

I'll try it when I use this up. Shouldn't take long!


----------



## Dave Jenkins

This thing isn't just using oil -- it's leaking it!


----------



## Modifiedmark

Dave Jenkins said:


> This thing isn't just using oil -- it's leaking it!



Oh really, where is it leaking from? Like you were told already if you leave them set idling they will continue to put out oil and they will set and leak for a while till all the extra has run off. 

When using the saws I see no extra oil on them,. 


If you do indeed have a problem, use the 2 year warranty and get it fixed. No biggie.


----------



## Saddle Mander

I hate you all. I am only on page 11, and I WILL read all 800+ posts when I should be doing something else, like SLEEPING!!!


----------



## cobey

i did the same thing


----------



## HDRock

Dave Jenkins said:


> My 5020, which I've used several times, is putting out too much oil to the bar. Is there any way to adjust this?
> 
> I will have quite a few more comments about this saw and some pix later.
> 
> Dave Jenkins



That saw does not have adjustable oilier, and Generally ,saws of that caliber do not have adjustable oiliers ,


----------



## Saddle Mander

Modifiedmark said:


> Better get em dang cheap, like less then $100 or you might as well just go buy one with a warranty.



I found one on CL this week, but no price. I emailed the guy and he replied $200. I didn't bother to respond. A few hours later he dropped his price to $195. I said I could buy it new for less and that I would give him $100 if no one else took it. He then dropped the price again to "$170 cash now."

Made me wonder if he is a clueless druggie trying to sell a stolen saw for a fix....


----------



## Saddle Mander

Thanks to you guys, I'm going to Lowes now to get one. (Can't say I wasn't warned this would happened if I started spending time on AS. I just didn't expect it to happen so quickly!)

See my Need Gas Advice ASAP thread here in the Chainsaw Forum.


----------



## Chris J.

A pawn shop near me had the Craftsman version of the PP5020AV, missing the top cover, for $60.00 "Clearance Priced" a few months back. I should stop in to see if they still have it.


----------



## old guy

Chris J. said:


> A pawn shop near me had the Craftsman version of the PP5020AV, missing the top cover, for $60.00 "Clearance Priced" a few months back. I should stop in to see if they still have it.



If its just the small cover over the carb & sparkplug I'd go for it, Sears has parts pretty cheap.
I they still have it after some months they'l take $40 for it.

John


----------



## Chris J.

Chris J. said:


> A pawn shop near me had the Craftsman version of the PP5020AV, missing the top cover, for $60.00 "Clearance Priced" a few months back. I should stop in to see if they still have it.





old guy said:


> If its just the small cover over the carb & sparkplug I'd go for it, Sears has parts pretty cheap.
> I they still have it after some months they'l take $40 for it.
> 
> John



If I bought it, even at $60.00, I'd use it for trade or pass it on for cost because I bought the same Craftsman model complete with case & scrench from a small building supply warehouse for a hair under $60.00. They had many pallets of Craftsman trimmers, blowers, & chainsaws, but they are now out of business. The only thing I found wrong with mine is the chain was on backwards.


----------



## terry2tmd

Outstanding job Mark I been curious about this saw, too bad a rim set up can't be located rims seem to smooth things out a little, has anyone tried 3/8 low profile on this saw. 
I had to comment on the safety chain issue I usually don't use it but I have been running and working on saws since I was young I have my personal preferences. However I got what I thought was a good buy on some stihl safety chain didn't take me long to realize this deal wasn't such a deal. I got it to cut but I modified the heck out of the rakers or more to the point I removed the assistant rakers with a dremmel then it would cut, I will never buy safety chain again because of this experience.
I was a fan of the 4620 I had one that I kept in my truck and you do use them more then you would think. Problem was someone decided they needed it more then I did and stole it out of my truck. I was looking for a replacement this seems a good candidate, I like that Poulan has uppedthere displacement it would be too much to hope that they might someday produce a 70cc saw with similar price considerations, actually it would just be cool to be able to get large displacement Poulans again I been a long time Poulan fan. Been searching for a piston and cylinder for a 5200 for 2 years now. 
Again great job we should have you do a whole thing here on reviewing new saws. No biased, and no BS thank you!!!


----------



## brokenbudget

terry2tmd said:


> Outstanding job Mark I been curious about this saw, too bad a rim set up can't be located rims seem to smooth things out a little, has anyone tried 3/8 low profile on this saw.
> QUOTE]
> 
> if you look through this thread, you'll find the answer to the rim sprocket set up you're looking for
> lo pro is too small for this saw. it shouldn't even be considered. dumb idea.


----------



## rms61moparman

brokenbudget said:


> terry2tmd said:
> 
> 
> 
> Outstanding job Mark I been curious about this saw, too bad a rim set up can't be located rims seem to smooth things out a little, has anyone tried 3/8 low profile on this saw.
> QUOTE]
> 
> if you look through this thread, you'll find the answer to the rim sprocket set up you're looking for
> *lo pro is too small for this saw. it shouldn't even be considered. dumb idea*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I wouldn't say that exactly!!!
Click to expand...


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

terry2tmd said:


> too bad a rim set up can't be located rims seem to smooth things out a little,



I was dared to find a rim set up for the 5020 saw back once upon time. Took all of 5 mins to find . I ran my 5020 with 325 rim set up or go back to 3/8 rim set up. :msp_biggrin:


----------



## stipes

*Hi Mike!*

Just got one a couple of days ago from fleabay, and all that was wrong was the brake was engaged where the cover wouldnt go over the clutch. Finally stoped raining so gonna try it out in some wood here in a few mins. Seems like a nice saw for home owners.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

again 325 rim set up on 5020


----------



## rms61moparman

stipes said:


> Just got one a couple of days ago from fleabay, and all that was wrong was the brake was engaged where the cover wouldnt go over the clutch. Finally stoped raining so gonna try it out in some wood here in a few mins. Seems like a nice saw for home owners.







Hey neighbor!
Where the heck have you been for the last couple of years???


Mike


----------



## terry2tmd

brokenbudget said:


> terry2tmd said:
> 
> 
> 
> Outstanding job Mark I been curious about this saw, too bad a rim set up can't be located rims seem to smooth things out a little, has anyone tried 3/8 low profile on this saw.
> QUOTE]
> 
> if you look through this thread, you'll find the answer to the rim sprocket set up you're looking for
> lo pro is too small for this saw. it shouldn't even be considered. dumb idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off I don't deal with small chain very much, and I was under the impression that was what 3/8 low profile was developed for, secondly I like this thread, Third I have shown you no disrespect so what gives you the right to come off like this? If you have some problem with me I'll give you my name phone number and address come on by I am positive I can help you pull that bug outta your butt!
Click to expand...


----------



## brokenbudget

terry2tmd said:


> brokenbudget said:
> 
> 
> 
> First off I don't deal with small chain very much, and I was under the impression that was what 3/8 low profile was developed for, secondly I like this thread, Third I have shown you no disrespect so what gives you the right to come off like this? If you have some problem with me I'll give you my name phone number and address come on by I am positive I can help you pull that bug outta your butt!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OOOOOOH WHAAAAAA! another tough guy picking fights over the interweb
> i told you excatly what you wanted to hear. and told you exactly what i thought of your 'idea' of using lo pro on this saw. if that's insulting to you, you need to sell the saw, and go find a knitting forum where they all talk about feelings and good karma. and let the big boys do the work with the dangerous hurty hurty tools.
> like i said, lo pro is a half assed idea on this saw, go back through this thread and LOOOOOOOK for the posts. get off yer ar$e and do your own leg work instead of whining and crying about somebody hurting your feelings.
Click to expand...


----------



## rms61moparman

brokenbudget said:


> terry2tmd said:
> 
> 
> 
> OOOOOOH WHAAAAAA! another tough guy picking fights over the interweb
> i told you excatly what you wanted to hear. and told you exactly what i thought of your 'idea' of using lo pro on this saw. if that's insulting to you, you need to sell the saw, and go find a knitting forum where they all talk about feelings and good karma. and let the big boys do the work with the dangerous hurty hurty tools.
> *like i said, lo pro is a half assed idea on this saw*, go back through this thread and LOOOOOOOK for the posts. get off yer ar$e and do your own leg work instead of whining and crying about somebody hurting your feelings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And like I said, that isn't exactly right.
> I just switched my 346 over to low pro and from what I've seen, I like it.
> It just depends on what "low pro" you put on it.
> 
> 
> Mike
Click to expand...


----------



## stipes

*I wonder.*

.325 nk. Wonder if that would help speed things up. Ran mine yesterday, and granted it's not a 346xp but cuts good, and never missed a beat. Gonna do some tweaking here and there to see what it can really do.


----------



## brokenbudget

rms61moparman;4496365 And like I said said:


> I have also done it in the past. found absolutely no reason for it. .325 and reg. 3/8" works better. keeps the saw in it's powerband. not screaming it's guts out or having to push like hell on the saw to cut nicely. why cut slower and work harder? let alone strength and wear....
> it's easier to do it the right way with the right parts.


----------



## 3000 FPS

rms61moparman said:


> brokenbudget said:
> 
> 
> 
> And like I said, that isn't exactly right.
> I just switched my 346 over to low pro and from what I've seen, I like it.
> It just depends on what "low pro" you put on it.
> 
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know one thing I tried some of the picco chain on my PP 260 and that is some cuttin chain.
Click to expand...


----------



## rms61moparman

brokenbudget said:


> I have also done it in the past. found absolutely no reason for it. .325 and reg. 3/8" works better. keeps the saw in it's powerband. not screaming it's guts out or having to push like hell on the saw to cut nicely. why cut slower and work harder? let alone strength and wear....
> it's easier to do it the right way with the right parts.





Not sure if you know it or not, but Stihl recently changed the face of low pro completely.
The 63PS is NOT your fathers low pro.
I'll know better after more testing but so far it looks like it is going to be super!


Mike


----------



## brokenbudget

rms61moparman said:


> Not sure if you know it or not, but Stihl recently changed the face of low pro completely.
> The 63PS is NOT your fathers low pro.
> I'll know better after more testing but so far it looks like it is going to be super!
> 
> 
> Mike



i'm well aware of the ps. and it is a good chain. just too small for a ~50cc saw.


----------



## stipes

*I always live by this rule.*

If you dig it, do it. If you dig it alot, do it twice. - Jim Croce


----------



## palmrose2

So the consensus is that the new 5020 is better with a different bar and chain combo. Without changing sprockets, is there a saw that has readily available bar and chain combos that will interchange with this saw? In other words, will a B&C for a Husky 346xp interchange. Bolt right on? If not perhaps someone can give me a link count for your typical 16" bar.


----------



## Jimothy

Hey, palmrose2.

I started a thread about it here a while back: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/pp5020av-18-bar-and-chain-remmendations-needed.246611/

You might find the answer there. I remember finding the appropriate info on bar/chain options. "bolt-on", no sprocket mods.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

As long as you are using 3/8 K095 bar you are fine. small husky mount in 3/8.


----------



## AuerX

I just bought a Refurbished one and put a Forester 16" bar on it.
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...ty-wood-saw-choice.256301/page-2#post-4796385


----------



## joesmith

Finnman said:


> I just bought a Refurbished one and put a Forester 16" bar on it.
> http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...ty-wood-saw-choice.256301/page-2#post-4796385


Yeah, they have those at my local ranch store for 130...I bought two, and both were bad still...I will buy another soon and hopefully the third time is a charm.


----------



## palmrose2

It's not my saw. I talked my buddy into buying one because I couldn't stand the idea of him using another 40cc saw to cut 6 cords of wood a year. What I'm most interested in is link count for a 16" bar. I'm pretty sure 60 links of 3/8ths will do the job, and that is what I told him. I am the guy responsible for him buying the saw, so I feel like I'm obligated to give him the right dope.


----------



## 7sleeper

Stay with 325, you both will be happier. Or are you talking about 3/8 low pro / picco chain? That would of course make you both smile! Regular 3/8 is for me only on a very stronge 50cc saw (stihl 261, dolmar 5100) or better beginning with 60 cc an option.


7


----------



## ncpete

ohhhh Man! I have had my 5020 for about a year and a half now, having made some money with it last year. I put it away after my last job, telling myself that I needed to buy a new chain because of some brick I hit, cutting out an UGLY very overgrow juniper. Still haven't bought that new chain, and I am not good enough at sharpening to make it cut straight again - so right now it's limited to limbing and knocking down a half acre of bamboo in my mother-in-laws backyard. As I have some bigger stuff to cut this weekend, I have ordered up some new loops of 72V - 70DL to have spares on hand. I will dig more in the other threads for chain options, but running what I know and feel comfortable with now
Hoping to have my Poulan carb tool on hand by then, too - It doesn't like starting or idling when cold. Really a little shocking to see how many of my tools require the splined tool, that I never paid attention to before coming here. Lots of pics are broken links on this thread, which is disappointing as I want to get an idea of what was done for the muffler mod. 

If my new chain doesn't arrive, I can survive with the 36cc craftsman.... but I find myself considering smaller bars for it - that's for a later time. my first free saw, and its a runner!


----------



## cobey

7sleeper said:


> Stay with 325, you both will be happier. Or are you talking about 3/8 low pro / picco chain? That would of course make you both smile! Regular 3/8 is for me only on a very stronge 50cc saw (stihl 261, dolmar 5100) or better beginning with 60 cc an option.
> 
> 
> 7


They come with 3/8'


----------



## CTYank

7sleeper said:


> Stay with 325, you both will be happier. Or are you talking about 3/8 low pro / picco chain? That would of course make you both smile! Regular 3/8 is for me only on a very stronge 50cc saw (stihl 261, dolmar 5100) or better beginning with 60 cc an option.
> 7



My 5020 came with 20" (nominal) 3/8" pitch b&c. Works just fine, buried in hickory. I've a 16" bar for it, for when I don't need longer. When I can make good use of the OEM 20" bar, on it goes, and the chips fly. Yet more of that coming on Thurs. with the OEM "vanguard" chain, even. 'Bout time to use that up, slowly.

I've only seen full-ht 3/8" pitch chains on 5020s, never lo-pro or .325". No need. 

My only rigid rule is to have no rigid rules.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

I tested 325 and 3/8 on the 5020. I put it back to oem 3/8 set up. It is strong enough for 3/8 even though I dont do 20" on 50cc saws. I went to 16".


----------



## WDG

I'm still wading through this thread, so please forgive me if this has already been answered here...

1) Given the same price, is there any reason to choose the Sears version over the Poulan version of this saw (or vice-versa?)

2) I notice Walmart currently has these new for $219 (other places for $199,) but the factory refurbished units are $159. Is there any reason to shy away from getting a refurb over new? (My thinking is that the refurb might actually have been looked over more thoroughly than a new saw, but I may be mistaken.)

I'd very much like to thank Modifiedmark for starting this thread, and all the rest who have contributed to it. 

As a home renter, this saw would fit my needs perfectly. We have some trees, and I have one trash tree to take down, but would mostly need to use this for storm damage cleanup, both at the house, and around the neighborhood. I'd love something expensive like a Stihl, but it really would make no financial sense to tie up that much money in such a purchase. It simply would not be used enough to justify it.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

I bought mine NEW online shipped to door for around $165 or so. Make sure you know how to adjust a saws carb out of the box. You would have thrown the one I got if not. Little tuning and it was the easiest saw to start I have ever had. ( oem spline epa tool needed or a redneck chainsaw repair method).


----------



## CTYank

Another quibbly thing that could need attention on this saw: the two carb mounting nuts. These nuts clamp the plastic filter body to the carb and cyl. No lock-washer, and apparently not tightened very tight at assembly, which makes sense.

Mine worked loose. So I took a Torx-25 (not 27) wrench and removed two black plastic cover around the carb. A drop of LocTite blue or equivalent on each of the studs. We'll see how that holds things.


----------



## ncpete

Walmart has enough money, buy it through your local Ace Hardware for the $199, or wherever else you like for less. I love mine, it is a lot of saw for the money.


----------



## old guy

I have the Sears colored 5020, the only advantage I can see is ease of parts availability if you have a Sears store near you, just order parts for mod # 358.350981, these are same as Poulan, so even if you have the yellow saw you can get your parts from Sears.

John


----------



## WDG

LegDeLimber said:


> *better pics of bad spots*
> 
> managed to get a couple of better shots of the cylinder wall...



I must have something set wrong, as I see absolutely no pics from LegDeLimber, but clearly, the rest of y'all can. I _do_ see the pics JeremiahJohnson has posted, so I'm not sure what might be the cause.


----------



## LegDeLimber

WDG said:


> I must have something set wrong, as I see absolutely no pics from LegDeLimber, but clearly, the rest of y'all can. I _do_ see the pics JeremiahJohnson has posted, so I'm not sure what might be the cause.


Well heck. Looks like the pics may be gone now.
I should still have the originals somewhere (Too many hard drives sometimes)
I'll see if I can find 'em and re post if I do.


----------



## WDG

LegDeLimber said:


> Well heck. Looks like the pics may be gone now.
> I should still have the originals somewhere (Too many hard drives sometimes)
> I'll see if I can find 'em and re post if I do.



Cool. Thought I was just me.


----------



## WDG

BTW, someone had mentioned the PP4818A, and when I found pics of the boxes on google, it certainly looks exactly the same as the 5020. Has anyone checked the EPA tag to confirm if it's the same CC? After reading through all this, I was thinking an 18" bar might be the best compromise length, and if it actually is the same power head, the 4818 might be the ideal choice. Lower price, plus not needing to buy a bar & chain.


----------



## old guy

I don't think that's the same saw.

John


----------



## Chris-PA

WDG said:


> BTW, someone had mentioned the PP4818A, and when I found pics of the boxes on google, it certainly looks exactly the same as the 5020. Has anyone checked the EPA tag to confirm if it's the same CC? After reading through all this, I was thinking an 18" bar might be the best compromise length, and if it actually is the same power head, the 4818 might be the ideal choice. Lower price, plus not needing to buy a bar & chain.





old guy said:


> I don't think that's the same saw.
> 
> John



Last time I looked at it they did appear to be the same saw. I don't really get that combination though, because if I wanted an 18" bar I'd rather have lo pro chain, so I'd get a PP4218 instead. Then again, the PP4818/5020 has an outboard clutch and a metal clutch cover, which I like.


----------



## cobey

Chris-PA said:


> Last time I looked at it they did appear to be the same saw. I don't really get that combination though, because if I wanted an 18" bar I'd rather have lo pro chain, so I'd get a PP4218 instead. Then again, the PP4818/5020 has an outboard clutch and a metal clutch cover, which I like.


 lo pro really rips on a 50cc saw


----------



## old guy

You need to look at the pictures a little closer, look at the muffler, that pp4818 looks like an overgrown wildthing, I have a 5020 and a wildthing and the wildthing ain't fit to ride in the same truck as a 5020.

John


----------



## Chris-PA

cobey said:


> lo pro really rips on a 50cc saw


No doubt it would! You'd need a drive sprocket for lo pro that fit one of these though, and I don't know if that exists..


----------



## cobey

I never seen a pic of a 4818


----------



## cobey

Chris-PA said:


> No doubt it would! You'd need a drive sprocket for lo pro that fit one of these though, and I don't know if that exists..


 i got one on a 450 husky.... dont know of a rim drum for the 5020 ....... it would rock and roll if they made such an animal


----------



## Chris-PA

old guy said:


> You need to look at the pictures a little closer, look at the muffler, that pp4818 looks like an overgrown wildthing, I have a 5020 and a wildthing and the wildthing ain't fit to ride in the same truck as a 5020.
> 
> John


Ahh - are you looking at the pictures on the Home Despot site? I just went there and it jogged my memory. This came up before and they have the wrong picture. If you look at the IPL you'll see it's the same: http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/e7/e7adbf26-24ce-4f9f-93c3-a99d84917260.pdf

Actually though, it is built a lot like an up sized PP4218 (which is just a Wild Thing with A/V and more respectable colors), although they got rid of the inboard clutch and added a metal clutch cover. The engine, porting and strato system, carb design and chassis is all very similar - and that is fine with me.


----------



## Chris-PA

cobey said:


> i got one on a 450 husky.... dont know of a rim drum for the 5020 ....... it would rock and roll if they made such an animal


I read earlier in this thread that they changed the crank diameter on the 5020, so I don't know if it would work.


----------



## WDG

cobey said:


> I never seen a pic of a 4818



Here's the pic I found of several cases of the PP4818A saws (from the Southside Bargain Center site.) The pic on the boxes looks very much like the 5020, to me:


----------



## LegDeLimber

I finally tracked these down and cropped a bit more of the unfocused spark plug flat off most, to help with loading speed.

I shot these with a camera that has no manual foucus, So I had to guesstimate at an external target for distance and while constantly holding that half pressed shutter button,
then reposition the camera for every single shot. fun fun fun guys!!

p1050707 has 3 thin red lines in it to show the size area that a big fat drinking straw
rubbed in the oil. Just to give a little reference for the size of the damaged spots.

p1050703 I just tried to point some of the uglier looking spots and vertical lines.
The horizontal line from the ring skipping over the dingleberries sorta speak for them selves, I figure.

The rest are just shifts in camera position and the lighting angles will slightly vary
how the detail highlights show up.

I may try to reshoot some of these with the other camera that I have now.
It offers higher resolution and many more manual control options. 






edit: hmm, looks like I might of got it without triple copies of the mugshots this time.


----------



## LegDeLimber

I still want to know if the bearing cap from oh perhaps say a 350 part # 503885901 Bearing Cup
could be tweaked into the pp5020 base? might take a bit slotting or something.
but what kind of sleeper might you be able to build?
Would be some intake swapping and so on, but what the heck 
for getting real sleeper saw.

Yes I was blabbering about it in this thread. post 7
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/decking-a-350-cylinder.260274/
Think that Ive seen some unknown brands going in the teens price wise.
Who knows about quality till you buy...


----------



## WDG

Stephen C. said:


> View attachment 375891
> View attachment 375890
> 
> 
> it is a wild thing with good AV. Nice saw



That's a 4*2*18, NOT a 4*8*18.


----------



## LegDeLimber

I recently glanced at one somewhere and the fume rating sticker had the same displacement 
as the saw was labeled.
I had been wondering about that very thing also.
Sorta dashed the hopes of watching for a deal on one in the event that I could somehow
manage to scrounge the funds at that moment.

I cant recall if it was late model, plastic homelites or poulans (perhaps both?) 
that all were 42(?)cc yet labeled in a range from low 30cc up to 42cc.
Someone around here probably knows or maybe can recall the thread.

You could pull up the IPL and the Only actual difference between them was the bar lengths.
Too bad buying the lower priced "32"cc and grabbing a couple inch longer bar was within
a few pennies of being the same total cost as just grabbing the next size labeled saw 
which came equipped with said slightly longer bar.


----------



## old guy

Ok gang, I found a Sears parts list on line that lists Poulan saws and the part#s for the the 4818 & 5020 cylinders & pistons are the same.

John


----------



## DeckSetter

old guy said:


> Ok gang, I found a Sears parts list on line that lists Poulan saws and the part#s for the the 4818 & 5020 cylinders & pistons are the same.
> 
> John


Is the 4818 getting popular? I haven't seen them for sale locally yet.


----------



## old guy

Actually I have never seen a 4818, but someone on here thought it was possible it was the same as a 5020.

John


----------



## houseofdon

Was at the local Tractor Supply over the weekend and they had a customer-returned 5020 on clearance for $80. The manager said the customer had problems with it but they looked it over and everything was fine, and they suspected the owner just didn't know what they were doing. 

I had to bite at $80. Took it back home and couldn't get it to run, but after reading this thread I knew exactly what to do. Dumped the tank and re-filled with premix 40:1, popped in a new plug, and then fiddled with the carb jets. An hour or so later she's running like a top and I've got a saw that will suit my limited homeowner needs for only $80! Can't wait to test it out.


----------



## joe25DA

houseofdon said:


> Was at the local Tractor Supply over the weekend and they had a customer-returned 5020 on clearance for $80. The manager said the customer had problems with it but they looked it over and everything was fine, and they suspected the owner just didn't know what they were doing.
> 
> I had to bite at $80. Took it back home and couldn't get it to run, but after reading this thread I knew exactly what to do. Dumped the tank and re-filled with premix 40:1, popped in a new plug, and then fiddled with the carb jets. An hour or so later she's running like a top and I've got a saw that will suit my limited homeowner needs for only $80! Can't wait to test it out.


Win for you. Good to hear.


----------



## hrhunter

houseofdon said:


> Was at the local Tractor Supply over the weekend and they had a customer-returned 5020 on clearance for $80. The manager said the customer had problems with it but they looked it over and everything was fine, and they suspected the owner just didn't know what they were doing.
> 
> I had to bite at $80. Took it back home and couldn't get it to run, but after reading this thread I knew exactly what to do. Dumped the tank and re-filled with premix 40:1, popped in a new plug, and then fiddled with the carb jets. An hour or so later she's running like a top and I've got a saw that will suit my limited homeowner needs for only $80! Can't wait to test it out.


I bought mine for $80 also. It took quite a bit of fiddling with the carb settings to run right. It was a return to a farm store here and was supposedly unused but had been . Great deal for a saw and a case.


----------



## neoborn

Please can someone guide me to the correct shape etc spline tool, there appears to be a couple different shapes 

http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mlf9Z8zCGisJX2aHtePp9wg.jpg

or 

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m_cGyIb0YESUggOTnWke6CQ.jpg

Not Sure

http://www.ebay.tv/sch/i.html?_odkw...tool+5020.TRS0&_nkw=poulan+tool+5020&_sacat=0


----------



## old guy

That thumbs2 looks like the one, the other one is called the pacman, if you can find that set of 4 on e bay for $17 and change you will have every thing covered for the price of one,

John


----------



## neoborn

Can someone tell me what 16" bar and chain I am looking for to fit my new PP5020AV? I see alot of talk about a 16" bar and chain but no specifics, please can someone elighten me, this 20" is way too big


----------



## old guy

You want the small mount husky bar, the same one that fits the 353 346 357 etc. but make sure you get it for 3/8 chain and not .325. And get yee some lgx chain.

John


----------



## neoborn

Ty Much - will check my area.

What would be a 'great' price or 'good' price for chain and bar?


----------



## Vibes

3/8ths chain is purely a preference. .325 is fine for 50cc saws and you will find the chains are more readily available.


----------



## GrassGuerilla

Vibes said:


> 3/8ths chain is purely a preference. .325 is fine for 50cc saws and you will find the chains are more readily available.


Not in this case. As far as I know there is no .325 sprocket available for this saw. Weird size aparently. Please let me know if that changed.


----------



## Chris J.

JeremiahJohnson said:


> again 325 rim set up on 5020



Since folks have been asking about the .325, I found this post from JeremiahJohnson.


----------



## anumber1

New to the site here.

A couple of weeks ago my 15 year old Poulan wt4018 finally wheezed to a stop and upon inspection, it has a nicely scored piston. 

I have cut a couple of full cords a year with it since buying it new. Repaired it when needed and it has treated me well in performing homeowner saw firewood duties for longer than expected.

So, I need a new saw, I have a pretty strong mechanic background and can keep most anything well maintained. Started saw shopping on CL and was shocked at what a homeowner grade husky or stihl goes for used and abused. Googled a bit, found this thread, read it in its entirety, then picked up a new PP5020AV at the save big money store for $159 last week. 

I bought a "pro" chain for it on amazon for $20 (shipped) and went out to my in-laws property to get me some wood for the season (now that is is cooling off in Northwest Ohio).

Felled a couple of dead, 18" hickorys and a similar sized oak, bucked em into manageable rounds and made 4 good round trips home with my prize.

After reading this enormous thread and keeping in mind the perspectives of all you "saw nutz" (all good, I understand tools and wanting nice tool-toys), I am so very glad to have bought this cheap saw. 

I paid the same money for this pp5020 as I did for that wild thing back in 1999. It is 10x the saw! 

Dang thing did everything I needed it to and did it well.

Yes, the carb was off out of the box but... I have the four pack of epa carb adjusting tools (how else are you supposed too keep a modern string trimmer or blower running!) So that bit of tuning was no big deal. 

Out of the box the saw would die once you let off out of the cut. 1/4 of a turn richer on the low side and an idle speed adjustment, good to go.

Thanks guys. This saw is great for less than $200 all in. I hope it lasts like my old one cuz it cuts 9000 times better, feels 9000 times better than my old one (with a warranty no less). 

Happy!


----------



## mexicanyella

I bought one two summers ago after getting about 15 years out of a Poulan 2150...sort of a Wild Thing. I agree it's a lot more motor.

If you notice the 5020 seeming to act like certain cutting positions cause four-stroking and the feeling of having let up on the throttle trigger, when you didn't, pop off the air filter cover and squeeze the trigger while trying to flex the rear handle from side to side, against pressure on the front handle. Watch the upper part of the throttle linkage, where it opens the strato-charging intake butterfly, as you do this. 

Mine has developed quite a bit of side-to-side flexibility in that rear handle, in the area around where the scrench attaches underneath. When it flexes, it allows the upper barrel, for the strato air, to close partway, which seems to cause the engine to go rich and throttle back simultaneously. I can't find any cracks or fatigue marks there, but it's flexy-er than a few new ones I've examined on store shelves. I'm weighing the PITA factor of trying to fab up a brace for it versus just replacing the rear handle and hoping for the best.

Something to be on the watch for...but in the meantime, enjoy your saw. I still like mine a lot; I just have to remember to be careful not to flex the handle when I'm cutting.


----------



## neoborn

Can anyone guide me to a good video on how to 'tune' the saw so I can tell how it should sound when tuned correctly in and out of the cut etc. Currently I would just tune it so it revs as high as possible (incorrect I believe)


----------



## 7sleeper

neoborn said:


> Can anyone guide me to a good video on how to 'tune' the saw so I can tell how it should sound when tuned correctly in and out of the cut etc. Currently I would just* tune it so it revs as high as possible* (incorrect I believe)


Fastest way to kill your saw! I would go about 1/4 back from your "screaming" setting and adjust the L side so that you have a nice a rapid reaction when pulling the trigger! The saw will have more power in the cut. Just don't forget dB does not cut the wood!

7


----------



## zogger

neoborn said:


> Can anyone guide me to a good video on how to 'tune' the saw so I can tell how it should sound when tuned correctly in and out of the cut etc. Currently I would just tune it so it revs as high as possible (incorrect I believe)


----------



## mexicanyella

I've only recently learned about tuning a saw to four-stroke out of the cut and clean up under cutting load. I always used to tune them to scream, then back off toward "rich" just slightly...but not necessarily to the point of four-stroking. I've seized two saws over the years. Luckily the most recent one, my newish 5020av, survived and still runs well after cooling off and retuning. Time will tell how long it holds up. These two videos were helpful; thanks!


----------



## moresnow

Just picked one up at Blaines Farm Fleet. $180. Read the entire thread yesterday and decided to try one out. Might spend some time with it this afternoon. Definately different than my other Poulans. Thanks to all those that have contributed here.


----------



## Chris J.

This might be helpful. I might've already posted it.

In another thread some folks reported that TSC had (has??) the the PP4818 on sale for $100.00. That's the 5020 with a 18" bar & a different model number. If I wasn't up to my ears in 50cc class saws (which includes a 5020, a 4620, & a 295 Farmhand) I'd would've been looking into that deal.


----------



## brenndatomu

FYI for anybody near a Rural King Ohio (or at least the Wooster one) They have reconditioned 18" PPs for $89, and new ones for $139. Also, new PP 5020AV for $189...


----------



## Chris J.

brenndatomu said:


> FYI for anybody near a Rural King Ohio (or at least the Wooster one) They have reconditioned 18" PPs for $89, and new ones for $139. Also, new PP 5020AV for $189...



Per the RK website, the reconditioned saw for $89.00 is the PP4218.


----------



## anumber1

Chris J. said:


> Per the RK website, the reconditioned saw for $89.00 is the PP4218.


The pp4218 is not nearly as robust as the pp5020av either.


----------



## brenndatomu

anumber1 said:


> The pp4218 is not nearly as robust as the pp5020av either.


I agree, but it's also cheaper than date night at the local steak house...so, go to RKO, and the next morning ya gots a decent lil saw for limbing that should last a few years, or go to the steakhouse and the next morning, ya ain't got chit, well, actually you do, 10 minutes on the porcelain throne


----------



## anumber1

brenndatomu said:


> I agree, but it's also cheaper than date night at the local steak house...so, go to RKO and the next morning ya gots a decent lil saw for limbing that should last a few years, or go to the steakhouse and the next morning, ya ain't got chit, well, actually you do, 10 minutes on the porcelain throne


True that...

I got 15 years out of a wild thing...


----------



## Chris J.

I wonder any of the TSCs around here ever had? still have? the refurb 4818s for $99.00. We don't live near one, but my wife drives by a TSC twice a day M-F. 

I can see the look on her face  if I asked her to check on a chainsaw for me.


----------



## zuren

Count me in as part of the 5020 crowd. Picked one up on Sat. Now I'm waiting for a carb tool to come in. My friends will laugh but I'm sure I'll be happy with it.


----------



## Chris J.

This information regarding the proper bar mount for those wanting a 16" bar on the PP5020 is buried in this thread, and I think that it's worth sharing.

Thanks & credit goes to Modifiedmark:

Posted by member Modifiedmark on ArboristSite on Feb 12 2012 at 5:16PM:
*
“It just so happens I had a 16" 3/8's Power Match in K095 and put it on with a new 60DL Oregon 72LGX chain to try out.”*

I'm guessing--won't dare assume--that the above info also applies to the PP4818.


----------



## mexicanyella

Thanks for giving that info a bump...


----------



## conarco13a

I bought this saw refurbished little over a year ago, I had read this reviews before i did, so it feels right to leave some feedback. Its my first saw so i can`t tell you much.
i`m liking it so far and works good for my homeowner use. i do feel some symptoms of CAD every now and then.
the saw starts pretty good, it does die on me a lot the first minutes i think it has to do with the fact that I don`t use it too often. i do run it till dry before storage but still feels like it`s burning old fuel or crap the first minutes and dies in iddle or in full throttle all the same. once hot runs good. if you let it cool off the same day or the next day it runs good as well, hence my theory.
also if you get it too hot  it seems not to like it much, that happens after a full tank or 5/8 of a tank, and the saw stops. but you can get it started again. i don`t get it too hot now after realising that. or it might be a carb thing i don`t know, i have it factory set.
i`m in my 3er or 4th tank i think.
comparing the pro saw of friends of mine of course you can tell the difference, but there is also a price difference!.

as it`s been mentioned
the bar does seem a bit long for the engine, bugs down or stalls if you use to much of the bar at the same time. and the teeth of the sprocket seem to show some were

i took this pics this week
i had to take down some young eucalyptus that were growing from a stump, half were leaning the right way, the others the opposite direction. i used a rope and a chinese come along to "encourage" them rebels











of course you can see mistakes in the techniques and so on. i try to learn from them, it was my first time pulling with a rope. some notches were too small etc. i`ll do better next time.


----------



## mexicanyella

Wow, Argentina? I guess I never realized Poulans were distributed outside of North America. Cool.
So those are young Eucalyptus trees? There's a type of wood I've never cut before!

I have done some extended cutting on some 20+" oak trunks in 95 degree July heat, and did not encounter any heat-related running problems once I leaned out the super-rich factory carb setting mine came with. I lived with the rich running for the first few tankfuls, thinking it would provide additional lubrication and cooling during break-in. Retuning the carb to run correctly after the first few tankfuls woke that saw right up. The symptoms you describe sound like carb tuning issues to me. Make sure your air filter's clean--mine gets dirty pretty quickly--and watch the excellent, concise saw carb tuning Youtube vids a page or so back in this thread...do that with your saw and I'd bet your heat-related running issues go away.


----------



## conarco13a

we also have the craftman version of this saw.
yes, those are young they can grow quite large, both in height and in diameter the thing is they have shallow roots so if it rains a lot on season the wind can take them. but they make nice firewood, good strong heat, middle sized flames, good hot coals and not a lot of ashes. they are fast growers too. but once dry is hard to split them and the grain is not straight.

i might attemp to set the carb in the future but i think i`ll wait a few more tanks.
i read here some people put some silicone sealant to protect the air filter but i cant underestand where


----------



## mexicanyella

If you flip off the wire bail that holds the filter element on the filter base and lift off the filter element, you'll see that there's a groove molded into the filter and base where the two mate. Some 5020 users have reported seeing traces of sawdust inside the filter, sticking to the oily fuel residue, as I'm sure you've read. Applying a bead of silicone to that mating groove eliminates the insufficiently tight fit provided by that wire bail.

On my 5020, I saw sawdust leakage sticking to the inside of the filter base and on the strato intake butterfly, and once I saw how often I'd be cleaning the smallish filter element, I decided to try a thin bead of grease in the mating groove, not silicone. Seemed quicker and easier--I just use the little grease gun I keep in the case for greasing the bar tip sprocket. When I do that I do not see sawdust getting past the mating groove. The fuel mist hovering around inside the filter seems to dissolve any grease that squeezes out to the inside of the groove...I guess the engine gradually ingests it and burns it or passes it through. What little grease remains in the groove when I clean the filter is easy enough to clean up with a little solvent and an old toothbrush.


----------



## TheBunz

Hi all! New to site and chainsaws, so after a little research on the Poulan PP5020, I decided to pick one up for my first saw because they are on sale right now for $99 at Lowe's! Went there and they didn't have any left besides the display model with no chain. Asked if I could buy that and I got it for $45! Picked up a new chain for it, just the recommended Oregon.

I will post some pics and video later this Monday when I go stress test it. Any quick tips for a beginner with this saw?


----------



## Chris J.

TheBunz said:


> Hi all! New to site and chainsaws, so after a little research on the Poulan PP5020, I decided to pick one up for my first saw because they are on sale right now for $99 at Lowe's! Went there and they didn't have any left besides the display model with no chain. Asked if I could buy that and I got it for $45! Picked up a new chain for it, just the recommended Oregon.
> 
> I will post some pics and video later this Monday when I go stress test it. Any quick tips for a beginner with this saw?



I need to go to Lowes .


----------



## 7sleeper

TheBunz said:


> ...
> I will post some pics and video later this Monday when I go stress test it. *Any quick tips for a beginner with this saw?*


Get some PPE!!! (= personal protection equiment = chaps, helmet, eye- & ear protection, chainsaw proof boots)!!! That is recomended minimum and all together real cheap compared to any visit to the doctor/hospital. And besides you already saved a bunch of money so there still should be enough left over. 

Further stress and chainsaws are no good mix, so just go at a relaxing pace and use what is between your ears before choosing your cut. 

good luck!

7


----------



## mexicanyella

The Bunz...a 5020 for $99? Wow. And for $45 without a chain? Super Wow. That's a screaming good deal.

As far as quick tips, I'm going to sound like SNL's Debbie Downer but I don't mean to be condescending, or anything (and I realize that "beginner with a saw" can describe a whole range of native ability or lack thereof).

My main tip would be to keep it firmly in the front of your mind that while a 5020 is not a pro logger saw, it is still a powerful and aggressive tool for someone who is not expereienced at chainsawing in general. It can bite/maim/kill you in an instant if you space out or get distracted while operating it. It has pretty large cutting teeth, even with the low-kickback chain, and those combined with the fairly powerful and revvy engine, can grab very abruptly and unpredictably and yank the saw (and you) around. Especially on small, whippy branches that you're trying to clear in a hurry as it's getting too dark to see but you want to finish the damn job tonight etc. etc. In short, it's a pretty big and demanding first step, compared to starting out with a little saw with a smaller-toothed chain, lighter weight, a shorter bar etc. Lots of people have survived starting off on saws this size and bigger, but be more careful and alert than you've ever been with anything, and the protective equipment suggestion above is a great one.

I'd also advise you to saw with a helper/partner, particularly one who is more experienced than you with saws, if you know someone like that. Learn how to sharpen your chain and consume everything you can about how to approach different cutting situations, and also learning to recognize which ones are above your ability level at any given moment. 

All that is a tall order and sounds discouraging, but it's a learning process and if you embrace that you'll stand a better chance of telling saw stories later in life while still attached to all your body parts. Eventually the learning will be fun, even if it's not now.


----------



## cornfused

mexicanyella said:


> The Bunz...a 5020 for $99? Wow. And for $45 without a chain? Super Wow. That's a screaming good deal.
> 
> As far as quick tips, I'm going to sound like SNL's Debbie Downer but I don't mean to be condescending, or anything (and I realize that "beginner with a saw" can describe a whole range of native ability or lack thereof).
> 
> My main tip would be to keep it firmly in the front of your mind that while a 5020 is not a pro logger saw, it is still a powerful and aggressive tool for someone who is not expereienced at chainsawing in general. It can bite/maim/kill you in an instant if you space out or get distracted while operating it. It has pretty large cutting teeth, even with the low-kickback chain, and those combined with the fairly powerful and revvy engine, can grab very abruptly and unpredictably and yank the saw (and you) around. Especially on small, whippy branches that you're trying to clear in a hurry as it's getting too dark to see but you want to finish the damn job tonight etc. etc. In short, it's a pretty big and demanding first step, compared to starting out with a little saw with a smaller-toothed chain, lighter weight, a shorter bar etc. Lots of people have survived starting off on saws this size and bigger, but be more careful and alert than you've ever been with anything, and the protective equipment suggestion above is a great one.
> 
> I'd also advise you to saw with a helper/partner, particularly one who is more experienced than you with saws, if you know someone like that. Learn how to sharpen your chain and consume everything you can about how to approach different cutting situations, and also learning to recognize which ones are above your ability level at any given moment.
> 
> All that is a tall order and sounds discouraging, but it's a learning process and if you embrace that you'll stand a better chance of telling saw stories later in life while still attached to all your body parts. Eventually the learning will be fun, even if it's not now.


Very sound advice above. My 5020 is the most dependable saw I own...starts easy and runs well. Don't fear it, but do respect it for what it is: a very usefull tool that can also be very dangerous. Great deal on your saw....enjoy!!!


----------



## ncpete

At $99, everyone who buys one of them gets a serious "You Suck!", and $45? + $25 chain - for $70 all in on the saw. That is a stupid good deal.


----------



## B-N

Are they really that good of a deal for $100? Tsc has 4820 refurbs on sale for 100 canadian pesos all the time here. 

Would I be better off with that or a Deere (efco) cs56 for similar money?


----------



## mexicanyella

Seems like a pretty good deal to me...especially if these 4820s (not seen that model yet myself) are actually the same powerhead as the 5020. I say that but have to admit I have about zero understanding of how Canadian dollars relate to US ones.


----------



## 7sleeper

B-N said:


> Are they really that good of a deal for $100? Tsc has 4820 refurbs on sale for 100 canadian pesos all the time here.
> 
> Would I be better off with that or a Deere (efco) cs56 for similar money?


Are you joking? The Deere/Efco CS56 is a REAL old school pro saw! For similar money it would be a no brainer!!! I have the bigger brother CS62 and it just rips!!! 



7


----------



## olyman

B-N said:


> Are they really that good of a deal for $100? Tsc has 4820 refurbs on sale for 100 canadian pesos all the time here.
> 
> Would I be better off with that or a Deere (efco) cs56 for similar money?


 get the deere [efco]]!!!!!!


----------



## B-N

7sleeper said:


> Are you joking? The Deere/Efco CS56 is a REAL old school pro saw! For similar money it would be a no brainer!!! I have the bigger brother CS62 and it just rips!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 7




They noodle really well!


----------



## Chris J.

B-N said:


> Are they really that good of a deal for $100? Tsc has 4820 refurbs on sale for 100 canadian pesos all the time here.
> 
> Would I be better off with that or a Deere (efco) cs56 for similar money?



If that Deere saw is truly a re-badged Efco professional saw for very similar $$, buy it over the 5020, 4818, 4820(???).

I don't recall the year, but I missed the big clearance sale when a couple of John Deere dealerships near me dropped the Deere ***.


----------



## ncpete

If you can get the Efco, new, in 56cc displacement for $200, please turn me onto your source


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

They cleared them efco out labeled under cub cadet at TSC one time way back too.


----------



## zogger

I checked my local lowes, absolutely no pp5020AVs on sale here, full price only, and they don't even carry them in stock anyway, just the smaller poulans. Double rats, I was gonna scoot over and snag one.


----------



## ncpete

Sale is on through 21 December - take advantage of it and order for in store or home shipping. 



zogger said:


> I checked my local lowes, absolutely no pp5020AVs on sale here, full price only, and they don't even carry them in stock anyway, just the smaller poulans. Double rats, I was gonna scoot over and snag one.


----------



## B-N

ncpete said:


> If you can get the Efco, new, in 56cc displacement for $200, please turn me onto your source



Sorry for high jacking the thread, the Deere isn't new, but looks like good condition. 

Basically the question ends up being, buy a new saw or wait for a deal in a used pro saw, which is relevant in this thread. The answer seems to be buy used.


----------



## oakcutter

If anyone can get an Efco cs56 for 200, PLEASE let me know!!!!!!!


----------



## Chris J.

B-N said:


> Sorry for high jacking the thread, the Deere isn't new, but looks like good condition.
> 
> Basically the question ends up being, buy a new saw or wait for a deal in a used pro saw, which is relevant in this thread. The answer seems to be buy used.



Thanks for the clarification; you had us drooling for a while.

I recently had to make a choice. An Echo CS-590, listed on CL as new for $200.00 (about two hours round trip drive with good traffic), or a low-hour Makita DCS-6421 (former Home Depot saw, via a pawn shop) for $230.00 total. I bought the Makita.


----------



## 7sleeper

Chris J. said:


> Thanks for the clarification; you had us drooling for a while.
> 
> I recently had to make a choice. An Echo CS-590, listed on CL as new for $200.00 (about two hours round trip drive with good traffic), or a low-hour Makita DCS-6421 (former Home Depot saw, via a pawn shop) for $230.00 total. I bought the Makita.


Two hour round trip is worth much more than 30$ in my book! Even if it was across the street I would have chosen the same. So how does it run?

7


----------



## TheBunz

Just got done running the 5020. Runs great! Had to adjust the engine idle speed but cuts like a knife through butter. Can't compare to other saws though because this is my first. Sorry no pics or vids yet. Worried more about being safe


----------



## Chris J.

7sleeper said:


> Two hour round trip is worth much more than 30$ in my book! Even if it was across the street I would have chosen the same. So how does it run?
> 
> 7



In Houston traffic (which SUCKS), especially where the Echo was located, two hours RT was optimistic. 

It runs great. It's hard to explain, but the Makita DCS-6421 "feels" tight & solid like a pro saw should. Which is not a slam on the PP5020 (about $200.00 new) or even the Echo CS-590 ($400.00 new), it's just that the 6421 is clearly made for heavy pro use. 

I did find out the chain is really dull and the rakers definately need to be taken down. But only after I went help a neighbor with a few quick cuts .


----------



## B-N

B-N said:


> Are they really that good of a deal for $100? Tsc has 4820 refurbs on sale for 100 canadian pesos all the time here.
> 
> Would I be better off with that or a Deere (efco) cs56 for similar money?



That right, I just quoted myself!

So I picked up the used Deere(efco) cs57 for $20 more than the PP4820. 

It's in decent shape, used by a farmer (like 99% of the Deere saws), but had a few thing that need attention. 

1. Kill switch wires were grounding out
2. Top cover and recoil bolt are hex head and need to be replaced
3. 2 of the recoil bolts holes are stripped and need helicoils
4. Chain was dull and bar needed to be dressed

Having said that this saw rips! I'm thoroughly impressed with the performance of it. 

I'm not trying to further high jack the thread, only posted this here to fairly represent the value of the PP saws. Buy them and this is stuff you don't have to worry about, fuel it up and go!


----------



## pghsteelworker

I am new to this site and have been doing a lot of reading of some very informative posts and wanted to let anyone interested that Tractor Supply in SW Pennsylvania has this saw on sale for $169.99 through Dec 15.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/poulan-pro-pp-5020-av-20-in-chainsaw


----------



## Chris J.

pghsteelworker said:


> I am new to this site and have been doing a lot of reading of some very informative posts and wanted to let anyone interested that Tractor Supply in SW Pennsylvania has this saw on sale for $169.99 through Dec 15.
> http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/poulan-pro-pp-5020-av-20-in-chainsaw



I was at Lowes and they had the sign up showing the 5020 on clearance for $99.99. I didn't see any in stock other than the display. Since I have the Craftsman version, and plenty of 50cc class saws, I didn't ask about a price for the display (missing gas cap and bar nuts). I might when I go back to return the light switch that I can't use.


----------



## 67L36Driver

Chris J. said:


> I was at Lowes and they had the sign up showing the 5020 on clearance for $99.99. I didn't see any in stock other than the display. Since I have the Craftsman version, and plenty of 50cc class saws, I didn't ask about a price for the display (missing gas cap and bar nuts). I might when I go back to return the light switch that I can't use.


Amazing what people will steal off a display model. I've seen it many times but WTH.


----------



## 7sleeper

67L36Driver said:


> Amazing what people will steal off a display model. I've seen it many times but WTH.


VERY true! Totally idiotic!

7


----------



## TheBunz

Chris J. said:


> I was at Lowes and they had the sign up showing the 5020 on clearance for $99.99. I didn't see any in stock other than the display. Since I have the Craftsman version, and plenty of 50cc class saws, I didn't ask about a price for the display (missing gas cap and bar nuts). I might when I go back to return the light switch that I can't use.



Mine was missing the gas cap too. I just had them take one off another display for me.


----------



## Bart1972

I know this is an old thread, but purchased one about 4 years ago and I've used it regularly for firewood. I've modded the V72 chain by grinding the guids at 0 angle so as the guide is lower then the cutting edge of the bit. Also the spring in the clutch has been ditched. It came out some how and bound up in the bell and I had to pull it. I haven't noticed any problems yet, but the chain does get stuck easier.


----------



## Etap73

Well I'm new to this forum but just bought one also. It was not tuned when I got it. Also the thing just poured bar oil out the bottom. I tuned the carb and took the bar off (the nuts were way over torqued). Wiped off the bar plates and reassembled. The saw rips pretty good. I'll doesn't run out the bottom at idle like it did before. 2 tanks of gas down and is now a 2 pull machine cold. It feels real tight yet, cant wait to see how it runs after break in 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


----------



## timbercare366

I bought one to get me out of a pinch like 2 weeks ago, long story short I was on a job and for some reason the 2 stihls I brought would not run when they ran fine the day before, not a dealer for miles and miles but there was a pawn shop within 20 mins closest place with equipment and I came across this poulan for 115 and it ran well and I know I took a big risk doing it this way but I bought it and completed my job, several pines nothing bigger than 18 inches. I was really sweatin it with the decision i made at the time, not really a short story sorry


----------



## noodlewalker

my wife bought me one 4 years ago.. I cleared an entire "forest" of overgrowth and trees and such on our property, and was very pleased with the saw. I ran it hard and for quite a while and it always started and ran just fine. the only problem I ever ran into with it was the carb falling out of tune, you have to have a special spline tool to adjust it (like 10 bucks for it). I cut so much wood with it that it finally gave out on me after about 2 years of hard running. I completely rebuilt the saw for roughly 50 bucks. then after all that it got stolen from me... I went on ebay and ordered a brand new one for 129 bucks, it has been running perfectly as well. I was pleased with the value of the saw and the ease of rebuilding it. very simple saw and easy to work on. if you tear it apart to the engine, you will see the Husqvarna symbol all over it. i didn't know they manufactured the poulan's.. I believe it to be the best "homeowner grade" saw out there. when the one I have now finally goes south on me, I will buy another on without hesitation.


----------



## dgr

Noodle,
Two years and it was dead? How many hours/tanks do you think it ran? How many acres you clear? What did it in finally? What did the piston and cylinder look like?

Some guys will get 20 years and 10 hours out of a saw. Other will get 2 years and 1000 hours out of the same one.


----------



## Etap73

So here's an observation, I finished the 3rd tank through this thing and it's been cutting real well. I figured I'd take a look at the plug to make sure it's not too lean. A few posts ago I mentioned that the bar nuts were way over torqued,I just figured some guy building poulans was either been working out, an idiot or mad at his boss. No big deal and I figure I'll get a new chain, no visual damage... Whatever. So I go to pull the plug and it's in there too tight to pull with the skrench by hand. 
I grab a 7/8 end wrench as a breaker and can flex the handle of the skrench but no luck. No joke flex quite a bit. Now I know that I can get the plug out, but should I take it back now before I remove the plug and a large Chunk of the jug or what. I. Like this saw and have it tubed nice, if the plug bust loose without messing up the threads great but what if it does? I bought it at home despots, if I raise a stink would they honor the warranty? Or should I make them honor it now and start over with tuning and breaking in another one? 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Etap73

Tuned... Not tubed. 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


----------



## RedFir Down

Etap73 said:


> So here's an observation, I finished the 3rd tank through this thing and it's been cutting real well. I figured I'd take a look at the plug to make sure it's not too lean. A few posts ago I mentioned that the bar nuts were way over torqued,I just figured some guy building poulans was either been working out, an idiot or mad at his boss. No big deal and I figure I'll get a new chain, no visual damage... Whatever. So I go to pull the plug and it's in there too tight to pull with the skrench by hand.
> I grab a 7/8 end wrench as a breaker and can flex the handle of the skrench but no luck. No joke flex quite a bit. Now I know that I can get the plug out, but should I take it back now before I remove the plug and a large Chunk of the jug or what. I. Like this saw and have it tubed nice, if the plug bust loose without messing up the threads great but what if it does? I bought it at home despots, if I raise a stink would they honor the warranty? Or should I make them honor it now and start over with tuning and breaking in another one?
> 
> Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


Grab your 3/8" drive ratchet and a 13/16" spark plug socket now give it a good firm smack with the palm of your hand. It will come loose.


----------



## 7sleeper

It often helps when the saw is warm. So run a few noodling cuts to get it nicely warmed up and then give it a try like mentioned above. With all my brand new saws it is always the same. The companies drive in the spark plug quite enthusiastic.
When putting in again, I like to put a very thin coating with a copper stick only on the outer 3/4 and not on the inner 1/4 thread. This is what I use
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-466863-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Temperature/dp/B002A64RLA/ref=pd_sim_328_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=411FKPahSpL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=0XJMVHB4WXH7R0EBG8YZ

7


----------



## Etap73

Thanks for the thoughts guys. The saw was warm when I tried and I tapped a bit with a hammer on the skrench. I have been around quite a lot of 2 stroke engines and have never seen one this tight. I will go get it out, if it messes something up I'll just take it back. 

I've never needed to antiseize a plug it it sticks after proper install I'll use some (I've got the aluminum and copper) those antiseize sticks and locktite sticks are the sh*t! 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


----------



## noodlewalker

use an impact and socket it should come right out. but if not, hold them to the warrantee definately


----------



## noodlewalker

dgr said:


> Noodle,
> Two years and it was dead? How many hours/tanks do you think it ran? How many acres you clear? What did it in finally? What did the piston and cylinder look like?
> 
> Some guys will get 20 years and 10 hours out of a saw. Other will get 2 years and 1000 hours out of the same one.



I used the sh!t out of it for 2 years. they were hard years for it. the piston rings are what gave out, but the cylinder was still in good shape, the piston was pretty rough, but probably could have been re used, but for 7 bucks I could buy a new piston and ring kit from e-replacement parts so that was a no brainer. why put an old piston back into it. but now I know I can work it hard and it will put up a fight til the end, then if it does shoot craps, I can rebuild it for under 50 and put her back to work. I love that saw.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Dang, 4 years later and this thread is still alive and well! 

Getting some real world feedback and it seems there holding up really well. I guess these really are the best buy for a $200 saw for a whole lot of folks.


----------



## Etap73

Well I got the plug out! I swore I was going to see threads! All is well. The plug was a bueatiful cardboard brown. Two more tanks and she really is starting to open up, haha I may have added a few holes to the muffler. Checked again at the end of the day because she was running real good, the plug still was the right color! I bet with a real bar and chain this would really be a great cutter. Not bad for under 200. 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


----------



## tfrugal

Modifiedmark said:


> Dang, 4 years later and this thread is still alive and well!
> 
> Getting some real world feedback and it seems there holding up really well. I guess these really are the best buy for a $200 saw for a whole lot of folks.




i have worked my way thru 'war and peace', and it was worth the effort. you actually have me thinking about buying one. thanks.


----------



## LittleLebowski

Newbie here, would changing the bar to 16" net me any gains? What about a chain upgrade off the bat?


----------



## Modifiedmark

What gains do you speak of? You looking for a race saw? 

Just like any 50cc saw, it will pull a 16" bar better then a 20" bar if that's what your asking. There is nothing wrong with the 20" bar and chain that comes on it for a homeowner saw, no need to really change it out right off the bat unless you want to. If your only needing a 16" bar, you could change it right off the bat I guess, then you would still have the 20" if you get into bigger stuff later where you could use it.


----------



## dgr

LeBowski,
I have a thread on here you might find useful. It has some part numbers for a different bar and several chains. The 20" bar buried didn't have a problem on what I think was the dead alder I removed.


----------



## Modifiedmark

I run the 5020 I had with a 16" Powermatch and 72LGX full chisel chain because that's what I had handy here at the time. It ran good with that but for a homeowner/newbie firewood cutter, I would think the less expensive Prolite bar with a semi chisel 72DPX chain would be the way to go.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Here is the 5020 running the 16" bar in a piece of White Oak from my firewood stash. Yes its hard stuff, I don't go out looking for rotten pine to show off with like some east of me like to. 

It does a fine job for a $200 consumer saw. I guess I don't know how to embed a video anymore.. 

http://vid1321.photobucket.com/albums/u560/Modifiedmark/PP 5020 large_zpsmdcj4ofn.mp4


----------



## LittleLebowski

Modifiedmark said:


> What gains do you speak of? You looking for a race saw?
> 
> Just like any 50cc saw, it will pull a 16" bar better then a 20" bar if that's what your asking. There is nothing wrong with the 20" bar and chain that comes on it for a homeowner saw, no need to really change it out right off the bat unless you want to. If your only needing a 16" bar, you could change it right off the bat I guess, then you would still have the 20" if you get into bigger stuff later where you could use it.



Nope, just want it to run well for a long time. Not afraid of tinkering but if it ain't broke....


----------



## bikemike

LittleLebowski said:


> Newbie here, would changing the bar to 16" net me any gains? What about a chain upgrade off the bat?


A better 3/8 chain makes a difference hell I'd keep a 20 on it. It's less you have to bend over to cut brush up


----------



## zogger

LittleLebowski said:


> Nope, just want it to run well for a long time. Not afraid of tinkering but if it ain't broke....



If you do get a pp5020av, spend a little extra and get it from a servicing dealer, and make sure it is started and run and tuned correctly before you leave the shop. Make sure it is rich enough it doesn't run lean, that would be my only concern with new saws in general.

I finally got one myself last month, but haven't done much with it yet, got a few saws to work on ahead of it. Told myself I would get the first decent looking used one I saw once they hit $100 even, and finally found one. Only started it and ran it ten seconds so far though, but it looks like it was used one time. I don't trust used saws though until I at least partially tear them down and inspect stuff, just waiting for another pack of round tuits...

Story, several years back, when my 20 buck used saw split the oil tank and it leaked into the fuel tank, I said enough already, had gotten my income tax check back, needed a good saw right then, so went to the local servicing dealer and got the cheapest new little husky they had at the time, a 137. Being a servicing dealer, they started it and retuned it and dang if that little saw still doesn't run perfect. And that was my budget then 200 clams.

I had gone from 1970 to, forget now, 2007? Something like that, with only running 10-20 bucks saws. Treated myself finally. And I know it made a big difference on the saws reliability just from the fact they have a wrench there with a clue who tuned the saw for me correctly. We have since become good friends.

Then a tornado hit, needed a much larger saw, and I found this site doing some research and got CAD and..oh man....HAHAHAHAHA!

Saws trucks trailers specialty tools and am half way to finishing my little shop now....gets addictive for sure.

Oh..years and years ahead on my firewood stash as well..that's the easy part..hehehehe


----------



## Modifiedmark

bikemike said:


> A better 3/8 chain makes a difference hell I'd keep a 20 on it. It's less you have to bend over to cut brush up



A better chain, and what would that be? The 72V chain that comes on it will cut right with the rest of them if you know how to set the rakers when needed. 

Its a ton better chain then some of the other safety chains out there, like some of that Stihl chain....


----------



## bikemike

Modifiedmark said:


> A better chain, and what would that be? The 72V chain that comes on it will cut right with the rest of them if you know how to set the rakers when needed.
> 
> Its a ton better chain then some of the other safety chains out there, like some of that Stihl chain....


True. But the rolled over rakes and a flat file takes weeks to file down I had a few that I cut the rolled rakers off with a dremel and seem to cut better. The cutter itself is nice and hold a edge for a while


----------



## jakethesnake

I hate vanguard chain and openly admit I can't set the wide rakers correctly .... It came on my 455 years ago just a question I want a 5020 when I find a used one right How is the antivibe I'd like to hear several opinions if this isn't thread hijacking


----------



## bikemike

jakethesnake said:


> I hate vanguard chain and openly admit I can't set the wide rakers correctly .... It came on my 455 years ago just a question I want a 5020 when I find a used one right How is the antivibe I'd like to hear several opinions if this isn't thread hijacking


I think they feel better that the 4620avx less play in them. Only vibe I've really notice is piss revin no load. In a cut feels fine


----------



## jakethesnake

The vanguard I did some of the raker with a belt sander like you say bike mike not so much can't set em just a royal pita to do it


----------



## dgr

You guys are making $40 for a couple of new LPX chains sound real inexpensive.


----------



## Modifiedmark

dgr said:


> You guys are making $40 for a couple of new LPX chains sound real inexpensive.



To hear them tell it..... 

The main thing with the V72 chain is to keep up with the rakers as you go, don't wait and have to take a bunch off at one time. If I have to take them down a lot at one time, a grinder makes real short work of it. A chain grinder that is not a belt sander or a 4" hand held.. 

I would much rather deal with the Oregon safety chain that comes on the 5020 then what comes on the homeowner Stihls..


----------



## dgr

Is that chainsaw chain or pull cord for a lamp?

Mark, can you throw some pics up of how to deal with the depth guides? As soon as I threw my chain, I put my LPX on there and didn't look back. The bent and gouged chain catcher suggested I would need to sharpen the original one.


----------



## jakethesnake

Ah hell I'd just belt sand it too
The chain


----------



## Modifiedmark

dgr said:


> Is that chainsaw chain or pull cord for a lamp?
> 
> Mark, can you throw some pics up of how to deal with the depth guides? As soon as I threw my chain, I put my LPX on there and didn't look back. The bent and gouged chain catcher suggested I would need to sharpen the original one.



No I don't have the instructions, there posted on the Oregon website though.


----------



## jakethesnake

It's no diffrent than filing down any other guage it's just wider and more material to file down that's what the gripe is with it It cuts well guages are just huge


----------



## Etap73

I don't mind the chain new but regular chains just seem to cut better. I haven't tried to grind a Vanguard chain yet but have on other anti kickback chains and they always cut better. It seems to me that with the fold over if you grind the it off it would be too aggressive unless you ground the teeth a bit to get a closer depth? 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


----------



## bikemike

Think they made it like that to sell more of them so the ppl that file sharp chains just buy a new one instead of filing two rakers and there 6 pack is gone


----------



## Chris-PA

bikemike said:


> Think they made it like that to sell more of them so the ppl that file sharp chains just buy a new one instead of filing two rakers and there 6 pack is gone


I use two hands when I'm filing chains - I wonder if I should get one of these:


----------



## jakethesnake

If you use a lot of vanguard and frown on the belt sander approach yes that helmet is necessary


----------



## 7sleeper

I am always astonished at the complaints so often proclaimed with safety chain. You either get the impression no one can use a file or the file's used are long past their peak sharpness. Two to three swips and there is no problem anymore with the safety links. And after that they get a swip with every sharpening.

7


----------



## Chris-PA

7sleeper said:


> or the file's used are long past their peak sharpness.


It's amazing how fast you can remove steel with a good sharp file!


----------



## bikemike

Yeah a good file helps. But the rolled over rakers have lots of meat to take off. Like I said they are a ok chain. Only reason I have 1 of 2 left is cause they came with bars I bought. I send my money on stihl or carlton cause its what I like and had good luck with them. My determining factors of what I look at in a chain is how much stretch they get and how they hold a edge. Price isn't a big factor cause a chain pays itself off before the first touch up


----------



## bikemike

jakethesnake said:


> It's no diffrent than filing down any other guage it's just wider and more material to file down that's what the gripe is with it It cuts well guages are just huge


Thank you. You said it like us haters thunk it


----------



## TBS

Just bought a none running 5020 off ebay, 50 shipping and 30 for the saw from a guy in Puerto Rico. I have a craftsman pro 50cc and had the other craftsman version of the 5020 and my experience was rather disappointing, they struggled cutting through pine 20 inch diameter, I had to constantly pull out of the cut to get the chain spinning again. I ended up just fixing my ry10532 with a lawn mower muffler to finish cutting tree. A 50cc strato with a 20 inch bar should be able to out cut a 40cc starto with the same bar and chain combo.


----------



## 7sleeper

Obviously something is wrong. No way in the world would a generic 40cc saw out cut a generic 50cc saw in larger wood. There is a lot what might be wrong, begining with not sharp chain, wrong chain, pushing too hard too slipping clutch etc. 

7


----------



## Chris J.

Nathan lassley said:


> Just bought a none running 5020 off ebay, 50 shipping and 30 for the saw from a guy in Puerto Rico. I have a craftsman pro 50cc and had the other craftsman version of the 5020 and my experience was rather disappointing, they struggled cutting through pine 20 inch diameter, I had to constantly pull out of the cut to get the chain spinning again. I ended up just fixing my ry10532 with a lawn mower muffler to finish cutting tree. A 50cc strato with a 20 inch bar should be able to out cut a 40cc starto with the same bar and chain combo.



I'm not clear on why you purchased a non-runner 5020 for $80.00 total if you had bad experiences with the Craftsman version. Was the tree 20" diameter, or 20" across? Did you have the 20" bar buried and were you leaning on it? Was the bar getting pinched? 



7sleeper said:


> Obviously something is wrong. No way in the world would a generic 40cc saw out cut a generic 50cc saw in larger wood. There is a lot what might be wrong, begining with not sharp chain, wrong chain, pushing too hard too slipping clutch etc.
> 
> 7



Plus one.


----------



## Chris-PA

A Ryobi RY10532 is basically a GZ400 - with a muffler mod it's a ripping little saw (I'm not sure if a lawn mower muffler counts ). While both are strato the engine architecture of the Ryobi is more advanced, with quad closed transfers that have more of a curved path vs. the straight dual transfers of the 5020. Anyway, the GZ400/4000 family saws will surprise you.


----------



## TBS

Not leaning on the bar, no pinch, sharp chains, and the tree was 20 inch diameter. I bought this one for something to work on and make it better.


----------



## bikemike

Modifiedmark said:


> To hear them tell it.....
> 
> The main thing with the V72 chain is to keep up with the rakers as you go, don't wait and have to take a bunch off at one time. If I have to take them down a lot at one time, a grinder makes real short work of it. A chain grinder that is not a belt sander or a 4" hand held..
> 
> I would much rather deal with the Oregon safety chain that comes on the 5020 then what comes on the homeowner Stihls..
> 
> View attachment 489570


I have or had one of those. It's like taping a barbell on a saw


----------



## LittleLebowski

What would cause one of these to not be getting fuel? My fuel bulb isn't filling and the saw won't start. Yes, it's got oil and fuel.


----------



## anumber1

Fuel line broken, clogged, disconnected or otherwise.


----------



## zogger

LittleLebowski said:


> What would cause one of these to not be getting fuel? My fuel bulb isn't filling and the saw won't start. Yes, it's got oil and fuel.


 The hose is off the bulb itself, fell off or cracked, or the bulb itself is defective and leaks air or the fuel line from the tank to the carb is leaking air.. These air purge bulbs suck fuel up from the tank, filter end obviously, through the carb, to the bulb, extra mix goes back down to the tank with a shorter fuel line. Sometimes you can't see it but they get defective and leak a little and won't work. Best take the airbox/carb cover off, then the air filter, and take a look. You might be able to see what is up.


----------



## TBS

Could be a bad diaphragm or primer. Take the primer off hook two hoses up to it and try to pump some fuel through it in a cup.


----------



## Chris-PA

LittleLebowski said:


> What would cause one of these to not be getting fuel? My fuel bulb isn't filling and the saw won't start. Yes, it's got oil and fuel.


Hot or cold start?


----------



## LittleLebowski

Chris-PA said:


> Hot or cold start?



It started dying during cutting today and I had to let it set for a while, then it would start. Now it won't at all (cold). Bulb isn't filling.


----------



## Chris-PA

LittleLebowski said:


> It started dying during cutting today and I had to let it set for a while, then it would start. Now it won't at all (cold). Bulb isn't filling.


Air is entering the fuel system somewhere, either through a leak in a fuel line or in the carb itself. The Stihl (ZAMA) C1x carbs used on this saw are notorious for leaky check valves that can cause this.


----------



## bikemike

One thing I have noticed with new box store saws is they get test run and drained but I don't think they always use good gas. I have seen many new box store saws with hard fuel lines and carbs that didn't pump. New bulb, hose and kit it should be ok.


----------



## LittleLebowski

The fuel tank seems to be getting pressurized, it hisses when I open the cap after pressing the fuel bulb a few times.


----------



## dgr

Fuel goes through filter to one side of carb. It exits the carb to the primer bulb then goes from the primer to the top of the tank. 

If you press on the bulb and it comes back out but doesn't fill with gas, the inlet line is sucking air or the line between bulb and carb has a leak. If you push the bulb and it stays depressed, there is likely a blockage in the inlet line. 

You can also test the primer bulb by pulling the lines and covering the inlet and depressing it. It should stay depressed. Then test the outlet by covering it and you should feel pressure when you depress bulb. 

Since it isn't fueling at all from your desciption, I would look at the filter and inlet line first.


----------



## TBS

I would bet the fuel cap vent is clogged actually causing a vacuum in the tank.


----------



## LittleLebowski

Now after it set for a couple hours, the fuel bulb works. Not new behavior. I won't have time to monkey around with this until Sunday. Thanks to all for the advice.


----------



## zogger

LittleLebowski said:


> Now after it set for a couple hours, the fuel bulb works. Not new behavior. I won't have time to monkey around with this until Sunday. Thanks to all for the advice.



Still maybe running too lean? Gets hot, maybe vapor lock? Hmm. it shouldn't do what is happening. 

It gets hard diagnosing and repairing over the typed page.


----------



## TBS

Saw stalls and primer will not pull fuel but after it sits bit the primer picks up fuel and saw starts then stalls again after a bit and will not restart and primer is not picking up fuel. The hiss was vacuum being released. When the fuel level drops a vacuum is generated causing the cap vent to open letting air in, if the cap vent is blocked a vacuum forms in the tank stopping fuel flow.

A good example of this is when you leave a sealed gas can sitting in the warm sun and see it expand and when it cools off the can looks like it got crushed.


----------



## Chris-PA

Nathan lassley said:


> The hiss was vacuum being released.


It might have been, or it might have been pressure. The vent is supposed to let air in, but not out, so if the fuel warms during operation the tank can get pressurized. 

The problem described could be a fuel system air leak, a blocked vent or vapor lock, which is why I asked if the problem happened hot or cold. The symptom still isn't clear to me - "dying while cutting " is quite different from "couldn't start", and it sounds like it's OK when first started.


----------



## TBS

The hiss occurs after pumping the primer a few times then opening the tank.


----------



## Chris-PA

Nathan lassley said:


> The hiss occurs after pumping the primer a few times then opening the tank.


OK, I missed that. You still can't tell. The purge bulb/fuel line system is supposed to be a closed loop that pulls from the tank and returns to the tank, so it could not cause a pressure _or_ vacuum in the tank regardless of the vent.

If there is a leak into the fuel system on either side of the bulb any pressure or vacuum the bulb tries to create in the tank will just vent out through the break anyway. But if the break is between the bulb outlet and the tank the bulb will fill and pump fuel all over the place.

If the vent is clogged the purge bulb will work and it will start and run after opening the tank lid, but will stop after the engine draws a vacuum.

If it's vapor lock the saw will start and run fine from cold, but if you stop it and let it sit a bit when hot the bulb won't work and it won't start, except maybe on full choke.


----------



## LittleLebowski

I really appreciate the replies and will troubleshoot tomorrow. I had to take a break from working on my property and take a mini vacation - an AK shooting class.


----------



## LittleLebowski

Chris-PA said:


> If it's vapor lock the saw will start and run fine from cold, but if you stop it and let it sit a bit when hot the bulb won't work and it won't start, except maybe on full choke.



This describes my malfunctions perfectly.


----------



## LittleLebowski

LittleLebowski said:


> I really appreciate the replies and will troubleshoot tomorrow. I had to take a break from working on my property and take a mini vacation - an AK shooting class.



Vacation taken! Reinvigorated! What you guys missed out on


----------



## jtc16

Read the first page and saw there were 48 more so I decided to ask my question rather than keep reading. I have a poulan 5020 and I'm just wondering if anyone has modded the muffler and if so what'd you do exactly?


----------



## old guy

Ain't nothin in there to mod, you might make the outlet hole a little bigger.
To the best of my knowledge nobody has made any more power out of that saw, there has been a ton written about them, but it seems they are what they are. If you want another one, $100+ shipping will get you mine.

John


----------



## Chris-PA

old guy said:


> Ain't nothin in there to mod, you might make the outlet hole a little bigger.
> To the best of my knowledge nobody has made any more power out of that saw, there has been a ton written about them, but it seems they are what they are. If you want another one, $100+ shipping will get you mine.
> 
> John


I've been hoping someone would port one, but so far I haven't seen it.


----------



## Chris J.

Chris-PA said:


> I've been hoping someone would port one, but so far I haven't seen it.


 
The one guy who seemed the most enthusiastic trying to port a 5020 ended up going through a divorce, then slowly faded away from AS.


----------



## Chris-PA

Chris J. said:


> The one guy who seemed the most enthusiastic trying to port a 5020 ended up going through a divorce, then slowly faded away from AS.


Yes, I was remembering that as well.


----------



## jtc16

Right on it's pretty decent for a back-up saw I probably won't end up messing with it. I don't want another one right now thanks though


----------



## Chris J.

From all my reading here about the 5020--there are many threads scattered throughout AS--the best performance enhancement is:

Running a 16" bar instead of the "for marketing purposes" 20 inch bar.
Followed by a opening the exhaust exit a bit and retuning the saw.

I don't recall if anyone tried removing the factory cylinder gasket and replacing it with a thinner one or just sealant.


----------



## Chris-PA

Chris J. said:


> From all my reading here about the 5020--there are many threads scattered throughout AS--the best performance enhancement is:
> 
> Running a 16" bar instead of the "for marketing purposes" 20 inch bar.
> Followed by a opening the exhaust exit a bit and retuning the saw.
> 
> I don't recall if anyone tried removing the factory cylinder gasket and replacing it with a thinner one or just sealant.


It's a clamshell, but it could be modified like I did on my squish modded 42cc Poulans. The bearings are the same design so the cylinder could be cut and the bearing pockets ground out.


----------



## old guy

I did one clamshell like that, did all that grinding & sanding by hand and it turned out quite well, it was a long cold winter & I needed something to do to pass the time but I wouldn't want to do it again.

John


----------



## 5020

Hello guys,

I'm a newbie to both this site and also to chainsaws in general. I have some experience using a couple small borrowed saws (a Stihl and a Poulan 2150) but decided to buy my own as I generally don't like to borrow tools. I came across a lightly used PP5020AV on kijiji and found this thread, which seemed to indicate it was pretty ideal for my intended casual homeowner use - he was asking $150, I offered $100 and he agreed. While the scrench and case were MIA, it was a good deal considering they are $330 up here (believe it or not).

Now to my question - this thing spews bar and chain oil like crazy! I am using generic bar and chain oil from Canadian Tire (hardware store up here). My experience is quite limited as noted above, but this saw seeps oil out of the clutch cover seams when revving and is saturated/dripping oil from the bar/body in no time (whereas the other saws basically kept the chain nicely lubricated with no other notable mess/leakage). While I understand more oil is better than not enough, is this amount of oil usage normal for this model saw? I cleaned the bar plates and backside of the clutch cover (which were a mess when I first got it), but it made no real difference. From what I understand there is no adjustment for oil flow on this model?

Thanks in advance for any info/tips!


----------



## 5020

Any way to modify/slow down the bar and chain oil flow? ...it sprays a fine mist with any throttle at all.


----------



## old guy

If the engine is running it is pumping oil, the oil pump is run by the crankshaft not the clutch drum.
Don't let it run where you don't want an oil slick.


----------



## 5020

Thanks old guy - I did read that somewhere in this thread. It sounds like it isn't the norm and not a great design for obvious reasons. 

I was hoping there was a way to modify the flow even though it wasn't designed to be adjustable but I think it is what it is... I'm going to see if I can track down a thicker bar oil to help slow it down.


----------



## old guy

A lot of the cheaper saws from all makers are made this way, however the 5020 seems to put out more than most.


----------



## moresnow

Anybody have trouble on hot starts? After refuelling, mine would not start yesterday. Initially after I purchased the saw I added a partial turn out on the L screw. Seems to run great otherwise and I left the rest as is. It was hot out yesterday. Seemed to act vapor locked. Would not even pop with the choke off. Full choke gave me a short pop. Half choke would pop a few revelutions and quit. Until the saw cooled for 20-30 minutes it just would not start. Anyway if anybody has a recomendation let me know. Today I will take my splined adjuster wrench to fool with the carb and see if it possibly just needs more fuel on start up?


----------



## Chris-PA

moresnow said:


> Anybody have trouble on hot starts? After refuelling, mine would not start yesterday. Initially after I purchased the saw I added a partial turn out on the L screw. Seems to run great otherwise and I left the rest as is. It was hot out yesterday. Seemed to act vapor locked. Would not even pop with the choke off. Full choke gave me a short pop. Half choke would pop a few revelutions and quit. Until the saw cooled for 20-30 minutes it just would not start. Anyway if anybody has a recomendation let me know. Today I will take my splined adjuster wrench to fool with the carb and see if it possibly just needs more fuel on start up?


Sounds like vapor lock as you guessed. I've had seemingly endless discussions about that topic here on several threads - it's a very common issue but often misdiagnosed.


----------



## GeorgiaVol

When hot starting after it runs on a hot day I have had better luck with pushing the primer bulb several times until the fuel flow looks good. (No foam) also make sure the air filter is clean. I have this saw and had similar issues. Air filter was more clogged than it looked. I blew mine out with my compressor with the pressure turned down a bit.


----------



## ncpete

when I tuned mine when the carb tool finally showed up - it ran mostly great, started hot, cold, whatever. However, too many hours later, and the P&C needs replaced, should have tuned it earlier in its life. Someday, soon - will order the parts to rebuild it. maybe I will even figure out why my Poulan XX won't run, either, then.


----------



## moresnow

Ran the saw yesterday and it ran great for a tank. Finished what needed cut. My air filter appears mostly plugged. Going to clean the filter and try it again. I did not adjust the carb yesterday. I think I had the saw too hot the day before.


----------



## gyrfalcon

"The 3/8s sprocket is a spur and the clutch is a common looking Poulan style 2 shoe which appears small but this style has been around for many years with good service on up to 60cc models so the clutch dont concern me at all."


I seem to have a problem throwing chains. I'm pretty sure I'm tightening the chain properly. After throwing my last chain, and filing off the burs on the damage drive links I revved up the saw quite a bit. Seemed to have the right tension and was working fine... Then I think I let off the throttle a bit and gave it more and the damn thing threw the chain at high-rpm.

So I'm on my second wrecked chain with this saw.

I was thinking about replacing the sprocket and getting a new bar. Could this chainsaw be re-fitted with a floating sprocket? If it could, at least I wouldn't destroy the drive links if the chain was thrown.


----------



## gyrfalcon

jtc16 said:


> Read the first page and saw there were 48 more so I decided to ask my question rather than keep reading. I have a poulan 5020 and I'm just wondering if anyone has modded the muffler and if so what'd you do exactly?



http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/poulan-pro-pp5020av.236686/page-2


----------



## heyduke

gyrfalcon said:


> "The 3/8s sprocket is a spur and the clutch is a common looking Poulan style 2 shoe which appears small but this style has been around for many years with good service on up to 60cc models so the clutch dont concern me at all."
> 
> 
> I seem to have a problem throwing chains. I'm pretty sure I'm tightening the chain properly. After throwing my last chain, and filing off the burs on the damage drive links I revved up the saw quite a bit. Seemed to have the right tension and was working fine... Then I think I let off the throttle a bit and gave it more and the damn thing threw the chain at high-rpm.
> 
> So I'm on my second wrecked chain with this saw.
> 
> I was thinking about replacing the sprocket and getting a new bar. Could this chainsaw be re-fitted with a floating sprocket? If it could, at least I wouldn't destroy the drive links if the chain was thrown.



i haven't been able to find a rim type clutch for this saw. the part number for the clutch, not the drum, is 579551001 and is available with that number as a husqvarna part, but i haven't been able to find a the husky that uses it. the oregon parts finder doesn't seem to list the 5020, so that's no help. i couldn't find any help on ebay or google. but there mus be a rim type clutch drum that would work. i'll keep looking.

here's a quote from gregg at leftcoastsupliies.com:

"Howdy,
Well, I turned the IPL's upside down and shook em but, nothing came out. It seems as though all the parts for that 5020 are peculiar to that model. Not to say there isn't something out there that would work but, at this point you would need to have the saw, and a box of sprockets, and bearings in front of you.
Regards
Gregg"

partstree dot com, one of my mains suppliers list almost no parts for the 5020.


----------



## Chris J.

gyrfalcon said:


> "The 3/8s sprocket is a spur and the clutch is a common looking Poulan style 2 shoe which appears small but this style has been around for many years with good service on up to 60cc models so the clutch dont concern me at all."
> 
> 
> I seem to have a problem throwing chains. I'm pretty sure I'm tightening the chain properly. After throwing my last chain, and filing off the burs on the damage drive links I revved up the saw quite a bit. Seemed to have the right tension and was working fine... Then I think I let off the throttle a bit and gave it more and the damn thing threw the chain at high-rpm.
> 
> So I'm on my second wrecked chain with this saw.
> 
> I was thinking about replacing the sprocket and getting a new bar. Could this chainsaw be re-fitted with a floating sprocket? If it could, at least I wouldn't destroy the drive links if the chain was thrown.



I don't have an answer, but I'm 97% sure that Modifiedmark, JeremiahJohnson, or one of the other Poulan guys with experience with the 5020 know what rim sprocket will work on the 5020.


----------



## heyduke

Chris J. said:


> I don't have an answer, but I'm 97% sure that Modifiedmark, JeremiahJohnson, or one of the other Poulan guys with experience with the 5020 know what rim sprocket will work on the 5020.



one good thing is, i think, the oil pump is driven by the crankshaft, not the clutch, which simplifies things. and as i recall it is an outboard type clutch. so if you could find another saw with the same diameter clutch and crankshaft, it might work. a husqvarna 350 is a possibility. anyway, i'm hoping someone who's solved this problem will chime in.

maybe someone should start a new thread for this subject.


----------



## olyman

Chris J. said:


> I don't have an answer, but I'm 97% sure that Modifiedmark, JeremiahJohnson, or one of the other Poulan guys with experience with the 5020 know what rim sprocket will work on the 5020.


cbfarmall may know also........................but aint none of them been here in a while!!!!


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

I used a set up from a echo and took about 5mins to find one that fit (only because I was dared to find one  ) I just wanted to test 325 out on the saw.
I went back to 3/8 and 16"

Thread with info on it http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/poulan-pro-5020/?nowap

The echo drum is narrower but worked fine for me being a oem drum.

Used on 50cc echo saws too going by this off baileys. Make sure your *drum* you are using isnt wore out or warped from beginning. I've had that happen on a 166 before.

Echo: CS-400, CS-400EVL, CS-400EVLP, CS-440EVL, CS-510, CS-520, CS-530, CS-3600, CS-3900, CS-4400, CS-5100 (after SN 134504)
Replaces Echo Part Number: A556000021 and A556000020
John Deere 45
Replaces Oregon Part Numbers 30869
Fits Crankshaft Diameter .3937 (10mm)
Drive Sprocket Bearing ORF 37509
Rim Spline Size Small 7 tooth (RSS)
Optional Replacement Rim Pitch and Tooth Choices (sold separately)

ORF 11892 *325*" x 7
ORF 11891 *325*" x 8
ORF 18720 375" x 7



One I used came right off a echo 3900 parts saw.


Echo 17510535431


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair




----------



## heyduke

heyduke said:


> one good thing is, i think, the oil pump is driven by the crankshaft, not the clutch, which simplifies things. and as i recall it is an outboard type clutch. so if you could find another saw with the same diameter clutch and crankshaft, it might work. a husqvarna 350 is a possibility. anyway, i'm hoping someone who's solved this problem will chime in.
> 
> maybe someone should start a new thread for this subject.



thanks for the info. the 5020 seems to be an odd poulan without much in common with other models. i'll order a clutch drum and rim today.


----------



## zuren

> I seem to have a problem throwing chains. I'm pretty sure I'm tightening the chain properly. After throwing my last chain, and filing off the burs on the damage drive links I revved up the saw quite a bit. Seemed to have the right tension and was working fine... Then I think I let off the throttle a bit and gave it more and the damn thing threw the chain at high-rpm.
> 
> So I'm on my second wrecked chain with this saw.
> 
> I was thinking about replacing the sprocket and getting a new bar. Could this chainsaw be re-fitted with a floating sprocket? If it could, at least I wouldn't destroy the drive links if the chain was thrown.



I've thrown the chain off the 5020 as well. I thought I was doing something wrong but interesting to hear of someone else having a problem.

So if I'm reading the information above correctly, adding these 2 parts to a PP5020:

ORF 18720
Echo 17510535431

....would allow you to run a 3/8" chain and help alleviate the chain jumping, or at least reduce the damage when it does jump?

I have not loved the included chain and have considered the advise to go to a smaller bar. I have a chain and 18" on order.


----------



## old guy

I have never thrown a chain on the two 5020s I have.


----------



## heyduke

zuren said:


> I've thrown the chain off the 5020 as well. I thought I was doing something wrong but interesting to hear of someone else having a problem.
> 
> So if I'm reading the information above correctly, adding these 2 parts to a PP5020:
> 
> ORF 18720
> Echo 17510535431
> 
> ....would allow you to run a 3/8" chain and help alleviate the chain jumping, or at least reduce the damage when it does jump?
> 
> I have not loved the included chain and have considered the advise to go to a smaller bar. I have a chain and 18" on order.



you can get both the clutch drum and the rim from baileys here are the numbers:

ORF 513442 OREGON RIM & DRUM (.325 X 7) ECHO CS 400 20.70
ORF 18720 OREGON RIM SPROCKET (SM7) .375 X 7 TOOTH 7.19

it's interesting, i just acquired my 3rd 5020. only the first was for me. the first two had no problems with the chain but the third could not be adjusted for chain tension and the first time i put it in wood the chain jumped off the bar. i think the drive sprocket has the wrong pitch, probably .325. that may explain your problem too. i'll put a rim on it and throw away the vanguard chain. it's probably streatched anyway.


----------



## heyduke

gyrfalcon said:


> "The 3/8s sprocket is a spur and the clutch is a common looking Poulan style 2 shoe which appears small but this style has been around for many years with good service on up to 60cc models so the clutch dont concern me at all."
> 
> 
> I seem to have a problem throwing chains. I'm pretty sure I'm tightening the chain properly. After throwing my last chain, and filing off the burs on the damage drive links I revved up the saw quite a bit. Seemed to have the right tension and was working fine... Then I think I let off the throttle a bit and gave it more and the damn thing threw the chain at high-rpm.
> 
> So I'm on my second wrecked chain with this saw.
> 
> I was thinking about replacing the sprocket and getting a new bar. Could this chainsaw be re-fitted with a floating sprocket? If it could, at least I wouldn't destroy the drive links if the chain was thrown.



gyrfalcon-
i received my 3rd 5020 two days ago, $126 to my door.. everything was fine except that the chain would not adjust properly. i would set it up and run it then it would tighten up rather that get loose. this saw was for a customer who came to pick it up. when we put it in some wood, after the first cut the chain was thrown violently, high rpm, chain and chain catcher damaged. what i found was that the vanguard chain had several stiff links, tie strap to cutter, and as it ran it would get tighter. i made up a new carlton 70dl chain and everything was fine, today, a new clutch drum and rim arrived at my door. i installed it on one of my two 5020's. i remounted the vanguard chain and the same thing happened. the chain tightened after running, re-adjusted it and it tightened again. there seems to be a problem with the oregon vanguard chain. i made up a new 70dl carlton chain and everything is fine. i don't think there is anything wrong with the sprockets. one saw had the stock sprocket, the other the an echo rim type. i think it is defective chain. the vanguard loops are going into my concrete reinforcement collection. hope this helps.


----------



## M3Scott

Just wanted to say thanks for all the info in this thread. I picked up this Pro off eBay as a refurb for $110. I added a 16" Pro-Lite 160SLHK095 and a 72LGX060G chain for another $60. So far all good... seems like a nice combo as it starts easy and handles the 16" quite well.


----------



## Jlmoulto

First time poster. Got my 5020AV today as a refurb for $129, free shipping. Unfortunately, it does not have a scrench and I need to order one in. I don't have an abundance of tools around (moved recently and most of my stuff is in storage a long ways away!). Anyone know the wrench sizes so I can order one in?


----------



## heyduke

Jlmoulto said:


> First time poster. Got my 5020AV today as a refurb for $129, free shipping. Unfortunately, it does not have a scrench and I need to order one in. I don't have an abundance of tools around (moved recently and most of my stuff is in storage a long ways away!). Anyone know the wrench sizes so I can order one in?



your scrench should be 19mm on the big end and 13mm on the other, the most common type of scrench. you can find one at almost any hardware store of chainsaw dealer. it won't fit correctly in the handle but that's no big deal.


----------



## Jlmoulto

heyduke said:


> your scrench should be 19mm on the big end and 13mm on the other, the most common type of scrench. you can find one at almost any hardware store of chainsaw dealer. it won't fit correctly in the handle but that's no big deal.


Perfect. That helps a lot. Not a lot of choices here's up north so often have to order from online

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Jlmoulto

So, had a chance to start the chainsaw yesterday for the first time. Started after three pulls. Settled in to a steady idle after twenty to thirty seconds. Seems like a pretty decent running saw!

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## TBS

Just a suggestion for you richen up the high speed a touch because they are set a bit lean.


----------



## conarco13a

i don't think theres too much long term info so i thought i'd drop some lines here again. I still have the saw and seems to work well, i think I'll need to replace the drum and/or clutch soon. it seems to be the weakest part of the saw.
the air filter seems unique to this new poulan model (this 5020 and the 40cc model) and has trouble sealing after the first removal. so im using silicone to prevent anything getting inside the carburator (a tip from this forum).
i had a bar oil in the gas tank mistake  . i cleaned the tank and the saw was smokey the first minutes but seems that was it!.

spare parts for this particular saw seem difficult to find in my part of the globe that could be a concern in the future but i still have the ebay option if it comes to that (like looking for an extra air filter)

i have it factory set in all aspects but im thinking of making carb adjustments.

also i think i read here of enlarging some holes in the muffer. is it worth it? and if so does anyone have a photo of the process or parts that need to be altered?

on other news i might add a bigger saw this year


----------



## old guy

If you have a Sears store near you the Sears craftsman model 358.350981 is the same saw, thats where I get my parts. Don't bother the muffler, there is not much there.


----------



## hi-fi

Hi guys. Maybe I should have started a new thread, but I figure the 5020 experts are here, so...

A friend of mine just bought a Poulan 5020 based on my recommendation. He bought it at the "save big money" store. It has a model number of PR5020 instead of PP5020AV. 

I have not been able to find out what if any difference there is between this saw and the PP5020AV. Does anyone know what the difference is? 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## scottr

hi-fi said:


> Hi guys. Maybe I should have started a new thread, but I figure the 5020 experts are here, so...
> 
> A friend of mine just bought a Poulan 5020 based on my recommendation. He bought it at the "save big money" store. It has a model number of PR5020 instead of PP5020AV.
> 
> I have not been able to find out what if any difference there is between this saw and the PP5020AV. Does anyone know what the difference is?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I'd bet the 'R' is for reconditioned.


----------



## stckciv

It is the newest model #. It looks a little different but basically the same thing. http://www.poulanpro.com/us/products/chainsaws/pr5020/967061401/


----------



## TBS

PP5020






PR5020


----------



## hi-fi

Nathan lassley said:


> PP5020
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PR5020


Nice looking on the outside. Same on the inside? Anybody?


----------



## TBS

Same engine, carburator, and air filter. I picked through a pr5020 a little at tractor supply.


----------



## hi-fi

Nathan lassley said:


> Same engine, carburator, and air filter. I picked through a pr5020 a little at tractor supply.


Cool, thanks for the info!


----------



## stckciv

I have a new one in the shop. Ill post pics of whatever you want, let me know!


----------



## hi-fi

stckciv said:


> I have a new one in the shop. Ill post pics of whatever you want, let me know!


Thanks for the offer, but I'm not sure what pictures would tell me. I'm just wondering if there are significant differences that would make the PR5020 less desireable than the original.
Maybe you could tell me if the clutch cover is still metal?


----------



## hi-fi

I just downloaded and printed the IPL's for both saws. I hope to compare them more thoroughly today, but it seems like the new saw has new covers, etc, but the same engine components.


----------



## stckciv

It is still metal.


----------



## hi-fi

I got through the first page of the two IPL's for the new PR5020 and the original PP5020AV. The engine is mostly unchanged, notably the P&C, carburetor, muffler, and ignition modules are the same. 
The most significant (?) difference is the spark plug which was RCJ-7Y, is now a HQT-1. There is a different part number for the piston ring, but the part number for the "kit" that contains the piston, ring, wrist pin and retainers is the same on both. That is a little confusing but not my concern right now. 
I'll try to get through the other two pages today, and will post my findings if anyone is interested. (Does anyone else care?)


----------



## hi-fi

stckciv said:


> It is still metal.


Thanks Stckciv, good to know. 
Can you tell me what the bar of the PR5020 has stamped on it? How many drive links? 
The IPL of the PR5020 says 72DL in the description of the bar, but 70DL in the description of the chain. Both part numbers differ from those in the IPL of the PP5020AV. 
I think the PP5020AV chain is 70DL. Not sure why they would change that.


----------



## stckciv

It is a 70DL. The bar # is 545196102


----------



## hi-fi

stckciv said:


> It is a 70DL. The bar # is 545196102


Thanks. That part number is not on either of the IPL's that I'm looking at. Hmmm.


----------



## hi-fi

OK, here it is in a nut shell. Besides cosmetic differences between the PP5020AV and the new PR5020, the biggest "real" difference that I was able to find is the location of the chain tension adjuster. It's on the front of the older model and on the side, near the bar nuts, of the newer PR5020 model. 

I'm done now.


----------



## jakethesnake

That's an improvement


----------



## hi-fi

jakethesnake said:


> That's an improvement


Agreed. I feel better now about recommending this saw to my friend.


----------



## TS73

I think it's Husky's way of selling multiple brands of the same saw - like GM did with cars. Check out the new McCulloch CS50! It's a re-stickered Poulan PR5020. Whatever it's called I still like all 3 of mine.


----------



## moresnow

What is the Oregon 18" bar and chain combo that has been talked about as a potential swap? My 2 yr old 5020 just seems to run better and better. Like to try a 18"


----------



## old guy

You need a small mt. husky bar, ko95 in 3/8" pitch.


----------



## LondonNeil

Is this the same saw as the Mccolloch cs50s? The Poulan saw isn't sold in the UK but the Mccolloch is, hence why I ask.


----------



## TBS

The new pp 5020 is the same saw, the older model has different plastic.


----------



## TBS

I sold mine to a friend last week, I had a good challenge getting it tuned right before I handed it to him. That carb on it was so finicky I thought the saw had an air leak.


----------



## svk

Nathan lassley said:


> I sold mine to a friend last week, I had a good challenge getting it tuned right before I handed it to him. That carb on it was so finicky I thought the saw had an air leak.


I just tuned a 4218 today. That was really finicky as well.


----------



## TBS

svk said:


> I just tuned a 4218 today. That was really finicky as well.



It seems like those carburetors have a really fine adjustment range.


----------



## svk

This one was given to me and is soon to be given away. It runs a lot better than when I acquired it but it does not impress.


----------



## old guy

Yup, I also dislike tuning those systems.


----------



## svk

If they had a better carb and antivibe that wasn't overly squishy they would be a real good saw for the price.


----------



## Modifiedmark

svk said:


> I just tuned a 4218 today. That was really finicky as well.



No offense, but the reason is your probably trying to tune it like it was a old style normal carb and keeping it on the rich side. They don't like that and seem to want to run with the screws halfway between lean and rich. 

I used to think the same way but you just have to accept the way they are and run them just a bit leaner then your used to.


----------



## svk

Modifiedmark said:


> No offense, but the reason is your probably trying to tune it like it was a old style normal carb and keeping it on the rich side. They don't like that and seem to want to run with the screws halfway between lean and rich.
> 
> I used to think the same way but you just have to accept the way they are and run them just a bit leaner then your used to.


I tuned it by ear first and it would barely cut. Then I worked it up and down by 1/8 turn till I found what it liked best. IIRC best performance was achieved with about 3/8 of a turn in from what sounded best.

It found a new home today with one of my friends who lives on 4 wooded acres and doesn't own a saw.


----------



## Modifiedmark

svk said:


> I tuned it by ear first and it would barely cut. Then I worked it up and down by 1/8 turn till I found what it liked best. IIRC best performance was achieved with about 3/8 of a turn in from what sounded best.
> 
> It found a new home today with one of my friends who lives on 4 wooded acres and doesn't own a saw.



I rest my case. LOL 

Next time just go lean, then rich, then halfway between then you will need very little more adjustment.


----------



## svk

Hoping there won't be a next time lol. Going forward I'm avoiding PP's, bullfrog Macs, and blue coil Homies like the plague.


----------



## old guy

This was posted by someone a couple of years ago, it works quite well to stiffen the AV.


----------



## LondonNeil

Does anybody know anything about the bar on the McColloch CS 50S ? In the UK at least, its fitted with an 18"/6cm bar 3/8" chain, but that's all I know. I guess it can only be an improvement from the 20" bar on the PP, but it would be nice to know if i ought to budget on a new bar or if the one on the saw is ok and will take a standard/decent chain.


----------



## John A Willard

War & Peace is a great analogy. Just bought my second PP5020AV. Hope it's as good as the first. Best info in this novel is the numbers to swap out the clutch to rim drive. Thanks Mark for starting this thread. I had already bought my first one and was just trying to see if my "candy counter" purchase was sensible. Seemed too good to be true . . . a Made in USA Poulan for $200?! Since my gearhead experience is all 4 stroke I really appreciate everyone sharing their 2 stoke wizardry secrets, although 2 strokes still seem like voodoo to me. I will be putting these saws through hell with all the bug killed ash and quite a misplaced few black locust. But I'm confident that my learning curve will be their biggest challenge. BTW: I have been able to keep a Poulan XXV alive (sweet little saw) and rescue an inherited old David Bradley 917 gear drive (a real man's saw). So, thanks! Keep them cards and letters coming!


----------



## hump

If you live in an area that has the Rural King stores they have the newer version of these saws for $199.99 with a really nice case. Thought that I seen some without the case for $149.99 but it could have been the smaller PP, I did not pay much attention as I was just trying to get out of there before temptation got the best of me...LOL.
They do have the PP 4218 strato refurbs for about $88.88.


----------



## DSW

I was ordering some small Stihl parts at my local Rural King and saw a pallet full of new Poulans. No idea which they were but did notice the display had the chain on backwards haha. Now if they were displaying a pallet full of those lime green Pooolans I might have looked a bit closer.


----------



## bcdudeck

5020 wood! It's been a great saw for me the last 2 years. Never have had to touch the primer. Changed the plug once, when it didn't want to start. Needs more power, but works. Doesn't need any wear parts like the used saw I just bought for almost the same price!






Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris-PA

bcdudeck said:


> 5020 wood! It's been a great saw for me the last 2 years. Never have had to touch the primer. Changed the plug once, when it didn't want to start. Needs more power, but works. Doesn't need any wear parts like the used saw I just bought for almost the same price!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


You can't do that - it's a Poulan, you can't cut wood with it! It's a clamshell with a plastic case! It'll melt, or the cylinder will burn up after a tank, or the bar will bend, or........ How could you even think about cutting firewood with that, you'll freeze for sure. 

Enjoy the heat!


----------



## Modifiedmark

Here comes another guy in with a story of some satisfaction with a 5020. I wonder how many Poulan 5020's were sold because of this thread? I wonder if Poulan should send me a gratuity check for helping sell some saws for them? Just sayin..


----------



## svk

After 53 pages in roughly 6 years, most certainly a few people have bought one from here. You'd think they could send you a hat or something anyhow.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair




----------



## Modifiedmark

Before certain people go running saying Modifiedmark thinks he needs compensated for selling saws for Poulan, let it be known I was joking...


----------



## svk

Lol anyone who has followed you on here or met you in person knows you are far from a fanboy!


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Yep most of us are very open minded to all brands. 5020 is a great bang for the buck.


----------



## brenndatomu

JeremiahJohnson said:


> Yep most of us are very open minded to all brands. 5020 is a great bang for the buck.
> 
> View attachment 622080


99.9% of the wood I've burnt the last 9 years has been cut by a 4218 or 5020 PP...ain't froze yet! Own like, heck, IDK...6, 7, maybe 8 of these things in total...I don't think I have $300 in the whole pile...


----------



## CR888

Often with the 'pro saw mentality' that saw forums suffer, many seeking advice on buying a saw for firewood get steered into buying an over-the-top pro grade saw that extends their budget and is far from satisfying someone's needs. This thread sheds some light on a good capable saw at a fantastic price that would often be the right saw for many.


----------



## stubnail67

Modifiedmark said:


> Here comes another guy in with a story of some satisfaction with a 5020. I wonder how many Poulan 5020's were sold because of this thread? I wonder if Poulan should send me a gratuity check for helping sell some saws for them? Just sayin..


at least a free saw or 2...


----------



## 7sleeper

CR888 said:


> Often with the 'pro saw mentality' that saw forums suffer, many seeking advice on buying a saw for firewood get steered into buying an over-the-top pro grade saw that extends their budget and is far from satisfying someone's needs. This thread sheds some light on a good capable saw at a fantastic price that would often be the right saw for many.


I get crucified in german forums when recomending down to earth chainsaws. 

7


----------



## holeycow

However, the satisfaction of running a rip-snortin' saw of any size far outweighs the satisfaction of simply cutting wood. Rip-snortin' Braap is better than BRrrrrrr.

Ha!

PS, I was looking for a 5020 for a bit due to this thread. I missed a closeout of the older model for 169.00. Now they are 299.00. I will keep my eyes open...


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

I just seen the new designed models for $179 at Menard's.


----------



## svk

Is it just me or does that look a lot like the new Echo saws?


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Some better angles to see it. http://www.poulanpro.com/us/products/chainsaws/pr5020/967061401/


----------



## old guy

Hey, side chain adjuster!!


----------



## James Miller

What is a good starting point for the carb settings on these saws. I gave one to my brother and I think he has the carb all out of wack. It ran when I gave it to him but now it dies when you hit the throttle. I'd like to tune it but can't find info on a starting point.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Mine was that way. Wouldnt run out of the box at all. If I was a guy that didnt know chit and just needed a saw of the box I would have been one PO'ed owner. 
Let me go check my thread on my site as I think I saved info.

After the quick L and I adjustments saw was one of the easiest starting and running saws I had.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Info on settings I had from main thread in this short thread. https://chainsawrepair.createaforum...carb-carburetor-adjustment/msg50077/#msg50077


----------



## James Miller

Thank you sir. Any fix for the swelling gas cap other then have a spare?


----------



## farmer steve

THANKS GUYS!!!!!!!! thought my CAD was in remission but just caught myself looking at C/L for 5020's. probably a member here. 
https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/grd/d/poulan-pro-50-cc-20-chainsaw/6429457980.html


----------



## James Miller

farmer steve said:


> THANKS GUYS!!!!!!!! thought my CAD was in remission but just caught myself looking at C/L for 5020's. probably a member here.
> https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/grd/d/poulan-pro-50-cc-20-chainsaw/6429457980.html


I got the one I gave my brother on CL for $50. Less then a mile from the house.


----------



## old guy

I quit using ethanol gas and the gas cap quit swelling.


----------



## Beck-45

Gets guys figured I’ve add in my two cents worth. I’ve had the polling pro pp5020av since 2013. Only items I’ve replaced was air filter and fuel line. Gone thru 28 tanks of trufuel 40:1 ratio fuel and using a Oregon prolite bar and 72lgx072g chain. Been tuned once in 2015 and it still rips. Almost like it’s a husky 450 rancher! I can’t seem to kill it. Would buy the new model but since I got a echo cs-501p my girl won’t let me buy any more


----------



## VirginiaDad

When the anti-vibe handle flexes up relative the body, the throttle is limited. What have others done to address this?


----------



## JimM

VirginiaDad said:


> When the anti-vibe handle flexes up relative the body, the throttle is limited. What have others done to address this?


I used a piece of a one inch wide ratchet strap. Burnt the ends and used two screws on the handle and two on the saw body. Cinched it up pretty good while putting the second set in. Seems to work okay. Can’t speak to how long it will work though.


----------



## old guy




----------



## Beck-45

Is there a way to replace the cylinder and piston with a 450 rancher


----------



## old guy

No.


----------



## TBS

Beck-45 said:


> Is there a way to replace the cylinder and piston with a 450 rancher



The cylinders are very different.


----------



## Beck-45

Damn. That sucks


----------



## svk

Technically a 42cc question but I know several Poulan guys are following this thread.

I have used a handful of 4218's and frankly that model has never impressed me, even after being tuned properly. I recently used an older 3516 (approximately 2007 purchase) that is actually a 42CC saw. I was very pleasantly surprised at how powerful it was.

Were the older saws of this model more powerful than the newer ones?


----------



## conarco13a

so heres it's some of the stuff i've been doing with my pp 5020
some storm damage control and cutting firewood of trees that were down. some elm and eucalyptus
i've had it since 2014 i think. no repairs or replacements till now, but as of this week its not running properly i think it's the carburator. it speeds as soon as you turn it on. wants to run fast even on the choke all the way out. its also hard to start it.

i would agree that the bar is a bit too long for the saw or the engine is too small for that bar. when too much of the bar is engaged specially in hardwood it stalls. you need to play around the big logs to decrease the contact area of the bar and the log which that can be tiring. i would say logs under 40cm/16 inch are better suited for this chainsaw.
seems good for property management and homeusers


----------



## TBS

You've got an air leak somewhere.


----------



## fossil

I'm wondering if the fuel line EPA liner they use in those saws has finally turned to snot. I would definitely start with new fuel lines and a carb cleanout.


----------



## Cliff R

"i've had it since 2014 i think. no repairs or replacements till now, but as of this week its not running properly i think it's the carburator. it speeds as soon as you turn it on. wants to run fast even on the choke all the way out. its also hard to start it."

Sounds like every late model cheap plastic Poulan saw I've had come thru here in the last 25 years or so. They are great for casual use, cutting a limb or two after a storm, etc. As a general rule the fair very poorly with long lay-up periods unless the fuel tank is drained and the carburetor ran dry after their last outing..........Cliff


----------



## rms61moparman

Cliff R said:


> "i've had it since 2014 i think. no repairs or replacements till now, but as of this week its not running properly i think it's the carburator. it speeds as soon as you turn it on. wants to run fast even on the choke all the way out. its also hard to start it."
> 
> Sounds like every late model cheap plastic Poulan saw I've had come thru here in the last 25 years or so. They are great for casual use, cutting a limb or two after a storm, etc. As a general rule the fair very poorly with long lay-up periods unless the fuel tank is drained and the carburetor ran dry after their last outing..........Cliff





Well DUH!!!

Exactly what saw have you encountered that can store a tank full of this cheap warmed piss gasoline we are forced to use for a long period of time and not suffer any effects???

I'd like to get my hands on a few!


Mike


----------



## TBS

fossil said:


> I'm wondering if the fuel line EPA liner they use in those saws has finally turned to snot. I would definitely start with new fuel lines and a carb cleanout.



That will cause that too. I hate that type of fuel line.


----------



## conarco13a

TheBrushSlasher said:


> You've got an air leak somewhere.


about that air leak the other day I pulled the top cover off with the saw running and noticed some "steam" flowing from under the carburator or something close to it to the right. but im no mechanic so not sure what the normal working conditions were prior to this problem. it wasn't much.


----------



## fossil

conarco13a said:


> about that air leak the other day I pulled the top cover off with the saw running and noticed some "steam" flowing from under the carburator or something close to it to the right. but im no mechanic so not sure what the normal working conditions were prior to this problem. it wasn't much.



Not sure what that could be. Not likely a rad leak.

The only thing I can think of would be fuel mist from a fuel line pin hole or maybe a loose cover on the carb.


----------



## rms61moparman

fossil said:


> Not sure what that could be. Not likely a rad leak.
> 
> The only thing I can think of would be fuel mist from a fuel line pin hole or maybe a loose cover on the carb.





Does that model have an impulse line?


----------



## conarco13a

i don't know if it has or not and impulse line. 
can someone confirm that the carburetor is a C1M W47 ?

i don't wanna buy the wrong carb kit


----------



## rms61moparman

conarco13a said:


> i don't know if it has or not and impulse line.
> can someone confirm that the carburetor is a C1M W47 ?
> 
> i don't wanna buy the wrong carb kit





Yes it is but, why would you put a kit in a $15.00 carburetor???


Mike


----------



## conarco13a

thanks!.
i'm not located in the USA so i don't have access to usa prices. over here its 7$ for a carb kit or $25-$30 for a new one. 

anyway i was just told by a member here to check the piston before buying anything as air leaks can cause piston scoring. so i'll do that.


----------



## fossil

rms61moparman said:


> Yes it is but, why would you put a kit in a $15.00 carburetor???
> 
> 
> Mike



Hi Mike! I hope you and yours are keeping well.


----------



## conarco13a

so the piston is in good shape!!!. i have a carb kit and new fuel lines. i will attemp to repair it.


----------



## conarco13a

1)guys the gasket under the carb is broken. the one in between the carb and the intake that goes to the cilinder. does anyone have a part number for that?.
im pretty sure it was broken before i "investigated" but can't be 100% certain

also i'm confused with the hoses. the fuel lines kit i have has 2 colours. a thinner yellow hose and a thicker black hose. but the old hose that goes from the tank (with a big filter) to the carb (right side of the carb) is yellow and thick (as thick as the black one I have). also that old yellow hose seems to be double wall hose, I can see a thinner see through hose inside the yellow one. 2) wich hose should I use as replacement?.

the old hose itself is not cracked but the tip was a bit swollen and loose. also the old hose is pretty stiff. the saw seems to have bled at some point. the hose to the primer bulb is gonna have to be replaced too as it's stiff aswell.

3) the nuts that hold the airfilter case were loose, is that normal in this model chainsaw?


----------



## scottr

conarco the part number for the carb to intake is 576752501 it includes the intake to cylinder gasket and the muffler gasket (3 gaskets) .


----------



## davewis

I just wanted to thank everyone who contributed to this novel on the Poulan Pro 5020. It has made my life easier. I got my saw around 7 years ago and it is still going strong.

I would guess that I am the target consumer for this type of saw. I live in a subdivision that was built between 20 and 25 years ago with lots averaging between .75 to 1.5 acres. The only times I use the saw are to clean up my yard or one of the 'nice' neighbors after a storm. I occasionally trim a few low limbs. If I can't comfortable reach the limb while standing on my sturdy picnic table, I call a tree service. I have never gone through more than a gallon of fuel in a season.

For the first couple of years I really hated this saw!
1. The only fuel easily available in my area had 15% ethanol. I didn't know enough to go looking for ethanol free fuel.
2. I didn't know enough to run the tank dry if I wasn't going to use it for a while.
3. I used the stock chain for several years.
4. I didn't know enough to tune the carburetor.

The saw was very hard to start and cut horribly.... Then I came across this marathon thread and realized that _all_ of my saw's problems were due to operator ignorance.

1. Always use ethanol free fuel in small engines. I am not sure if different regions use different additives in their fuel. The e-85 sold in my area softened the plastic fuel lines in all my small engines. Some local stations now sell 'recreation gas' that is ethanol free. I haven't had a problem with fuel lines gumming up since I switched.
2. Drain the tank and run it dry after each use. Since I mostly use the saw for cleaning up after storms I would put the saw away with a partially full tank of fuel with the intention of draining it later. The fuel would often sit in the tank until the next spring when I got it out for the next storm. The old fuel would gum up the carburetor. It would often take a tank of fresh gas and 30-45 minutes of pulling/cursing to get the thing started. Since I started draining the tank I rarely need more than 10 pulls to get it started.
3. Get a proper chain. At first the saw seemed to cut fine then it kept getting slower and slower. I kept trying to sharpen it but it never got any better. I wrote it off to poor sharpening technique. Then I got an Oregon 72LGX070G chain and my world changed. The chain cut much better and I was able to keep it nice and sharp by just spending a few minutes with the file each time I cleaned it up and put it away. I am not sure if the problem was my poor sharpening technique or the vantage safety chain itself.
4. Get a proper bar for your ability and cutting tasks. As a young man, I was an Army Ranger. I had strength and endurance to spare. I turned 50 last year. I've been working in an office for the last 20 years. A 16 inch bar seems to be more suitable for me. I don't cut anything big enough to warrant a 20 inch bar. The only thing I used the extra 4 inches for was reaching to do a cut. But, let's be honest. At my age and shape, I am better off taking the time to re-position my body to get a good footing rather than reach to save a few seconds.
5. Tune the carburetor. The local dealers will tell you the carburetor is all pre-tuned from the factor and it is illegal to adjust the carburetor yourself. I call BS on that one. My saw seemed to run well enough out of the box, but after it warmed up it never seemed to idle properly. After a cut it would die when idling. You can get a tool from ebay for about $10. Or if you are a cheapskate like me, you can use a 1/4 in dowel with a hole cut in one end to fit over the splines of the adjusting screws.

Now, I am happy as can be with my 5020. It might not compare to the professional grade equipment. For less than $200 it meets my needs just fine.... mostly because the advice on this thread taught me how to use the saw correctly.

P.S. I realize that compared to the chainsaw aficionados on this site I am barely one level above total idiot. But, I have a working tool and all my fingers... and it looks like things are going to stay that way for the foreseeable future.


----------



## ColdNorCal

Finally had some quality time with the lightly used $30 5020. It would not start so the owner sold it. He admitted leaving gas in it for 1 1/2 year. I got it to start, and start easily 1 -3 pulls, but it accelerate rough and not idle for more then 10-20 seconds. Took the carb apart and the diaphragm was a little stiff, not pliable. Ordered a CW47 carb knockoff with lines and filter for $12 that will arrive next week. Hope it works...

The piston on the intake side looks perfect. The exhaust side has some very light lines but only on the bottom half of the piston. The top half is clean. To see the lines the flash light has to be pointed at a certain direction. Not ideal but I dont think its a problem either. The plastic intake manifold portion of the carb was very dirty with lots of debris. The filter looked clean though. He either cleaned the filter at some point or the filter leaks like crazy.

I removed the muffler, cut slits on each side of the exhaust deflector that sits on top of the muffler. I bent the deflector back, opened up that one small hole for the exhaust into an area about 2 1/2 times the original hole size and bent the deflector partially back. I also modified, more bending, the deflector to allow more and better airflow and left the spark arrestor in place.

Good times ahead...


----------



## Welderman85

Sorry to drag up an old thread how dose the power compare to a 4218. Can it handle a 20" bar or is it to much?


----------



## TBS

Welderman85 said:


> Sorry to drag up an old thread how dose the power compare to a 4218. Can it handle a 20" bar or is it to much?



The power is a good bit more than the 4218 and does fine with a 20 inch bar but is better off with a 16 or 18.


----------



## Welderman85

Ok I am.looking a grabbing a used one. All my other saws are 42cc plastic poulans. Theres a few real big maples at my moms house that need to come down and figured I may need a bigger saw. Than the 42cc. Still cant decided if I need it or not lol


----------



## svk

Welderman85 said:


> Sorry to drag up an old thread how dose the power compare to a 4218. Can it handle a 20" bar or is it to much?


5020 with muffler mod and retune really runs well with a 16” bar. They are pretty doggy in stock form but wake up significantly when you open the muffler. Turns them into a snappy, fun saw to run.

They can pull a 20” bar too and you’ll be pleasantly surprised compared to the 4218.


----------



## 3000 FPS

Yep agree with SVK.


----------



## Welderman85

What's a good chain to run on the 20" just picked up a used one


----------



## svk

Welderman85 said:


> What's a good chain to run on the 20" just picked up a used one


What are you cutting


----------



## Welderman85

Ash oak and maple


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

Welderman85 said:


> What's a good chain to run on the 20" just picked up a used one



You know you could use a full skip chain JGX on the 20" to help the 50cc out with hardwood cuts buried.
I did this for a guy that insisted on running full 3/8 chain and 20" on a partner 500. Worked out good for him.

It seemed much happier with 16" in my testing. But 20" for those that must do such.


----------



## svk

Welderman85 said:


> Ash oak and maple


Toss up between skip and full comp. I’d go with chisel chain either way unless you are cutting skidded wood then do semi chisel.


----------



## Welderman85

Ok not to sound like a total newbie but I am lol. How dose one tell the difference in chains at the store. The only chains I have every bought were either oragon fron menards or for my 211 from the still dealer. Thank you


----------



## Modifiedmark

Good Lord, this thread is still going?


----------



## old guy

Heck of it is, I got 4 of them things now!


----------



## Welderman85

Modifiedmark said:


> Good Lord, this thread is still going?




Lol brought it back from the dead. It helped me make the decision to pick one of these up


----------



## svk

old guy said:


> Heck of it is, I got 4 of them things now!


I’ll buy every one I can find now as long as they are reasonably priced!!

Long term members on here will remember I wasn’t originally a fan of the 5020 or 4218. I remember CTyank bragging about his 5020 amd 4218 and after I ran then I remember thinking “these things are pieces of crap”. Once I figured out that CTyank didn’t know how to adjust rakers/depth gauges on a chain and they need a muffler mod and retune to run well it was a different story.

I just used mine yesterday to noodle up a bunch of Norway pine rounds that I scrounged. I also used the heck out of my 4218 until I donated it to the Zogger fundraiser.


----------



## old guy

I never use em anymore, would sell em all fer a hunnert each.


----------



## svk

I paid 20 bucks for mine, the original 70 DL chain had one bent link so it wouldn’t spin. I straightened it and sent it to my uncle as a spare B+C for the Husky 55 I built for him.

I prefer the 16” bar but it certainly could pull a 20” with mods.


----------



## Welderman85

What's a good tune on one of these the one I just picked up I'd off a little haven't had time to mess with it but what a good place to start



Also I'm new to turning saw how do I go about it on this saw. And insted of keeping the thread alive should I move to the poulan fourm


----------



## svk

Welderman85 said:


> What's a good tune on one of these the one I just picked up I'd off a little haven't had time to mess with it but what a good place to start
> 
> 
> 
> Also I'm new to turning saw how do I go about it on this saw. And insted of keeping the thread alive should I move to the poulan fourm


Keep your questions in here since they are on this saw.

You need to go by ear on these. I only use a “starting point” on a saw that’s being built from parts. Since your saw is assumingely already running, run the saw in wood for a couple of minutes then do the tuning. 4218’s can be really finicky to toon but 5020’s are really easy. You want the saw to 4 stroke when revving out of wood and clean up as soon as it gets into the cut. YouTube “how to tune a chainsaw” and you’ll find several good examples where you can hear what I mean.


----------



## Welderman85

Thank you can you recommend a good cain for these. I have my chains sharpened local and he doesn't great but has trouble getting the vanguard takers right. I was looking at Oregon lpx but I don't know anything about chains lol but I'm trying to learn


----------



## svk

I consider LGX to be the gold standard. There are a couple better and most are not as good (overall) for chisel chain. 

Stihl RS is probably the longest lasting chain. Husqvarna X-Cut is highly spoken of but I’ve not personally used it yet. Oregon EXL is supposed to be on par with Stihl RS for durability. 

LPX is very similar to LGX but has a two piece depth gauge. In reality I doubt there’s a noticeable difference in cutting between the two.


----------



## svk

Welderman85 said:


> Thank you can you recommend a good cain for these. I have my chains sharpened local and he doesn't great but has trouble getting the vanguard takers right. I was looking at Oregon lpx but I don't know anything about chains lol but I'm trying to learn


Remind me, are you planning on running the 70 DL 20” bar or drop down to a 16”? I think there are a couple of Poulan 5020 threads going on so want to make sure I’m answering the right person.


----------



## Welderman85

svk said:


> Remind me, are you planning on running the 70 DL 20” bar or drop down to a 16”? I think there are a couple of Poulan 5020 threads going on so want to make sure I’m answering the right person.



I want to try and keep it a 20" on the stock 70fl dl bar


----------



## svk

Oregon LGX, LPX, and EXL are all readily available in that length and all would suit you well. You’d need to have a Stihl chain spun off a reel for that.


----------



## svk

Member @dsell has the EXL chain 
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...l072-3-8-050-72dl-full-chisel-14-each.317228/


----------



## Welderman85

svk said:


> Member @dsell has the EXL chain
> https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...l072-3-8-050-72dl-full-chisel-14-each.317228/




Would I be better off with a skip chain on this saw


----------



## svk

Are you going to do a muffler mod? (Which I highly recommend.)


----------



## Modifiedmark

svk said:


> Are you going to do a muffler mod? (Which I highly recommend.)



You keep preaching the muffler mod. Got a picture of how you done it? I had found the muffler to be a empty can, so only need to open the outlet. I did that and really didn't see any improvement to speak of.


----------



## svk

This provided a significant increase in power. It’s a bit louder (think Homelite Super XL/Mac 10 series loudness) but not obnoxious or crackly at all.


----------



## scottr

svk said:


> This provided a significant increase in power. It’s a bit louder (think Homelite Super XL/Mac 10 series loudness) but not obnoxious or crackly at all.
> View attachment 794766



Hey Steve , I'd like to figure the square inch area that you added to the outlet with the twelve holes . What is the hole diameter ?


----------



## svk

Quarter inch I believe


----------



## scottr

Thanks Steve , those twelve quarter inch diameter holes are equal to adding 0.588 square inch area to the factory opening .


----------



## svk

Cool. I wonder what the total area is in relation to the exhaust port? They say 80 percent is optimal.


----------



## scottr

svk said:


> Cool. I wonder what the total area is in relation to the exhaust port? They say 80 percent is optimal.



Do you know what the factory hole diameter is under the top deflector ?


----------



## svk

Not sure and I am not home. Probably 1/2" IIRC


----------



## Modifiedmark

svk said:


> This provided a significant increase in power. It’s a bit louder (think Homelite Super XL/Mac 10 series loudness) but not obnoxious or crackly at all.
> View attachment 794766



Good lord that's ugly. Haha. I checked mine by time before and after opening up the muffler outlet and it really didn't change. Even though it sounded like it would be more powerful, it really wasn't. Did you time before and after?


----------



## svk

It’s a gull damn Poulan from Home Depot, holes in the muffler are not going to make it look worse lol.

No I didn’t time it but throttle response is very markedly improved and cutting power is as well. I’ve run enough saws to know that it’s definitely significant.

I’ve timed a number of other saws though and noticed from 10 to 30 percent gains with muffler mods. Also improved torque in the cut.

Unfortunately I lost the cell phone clamp for my tripod which makes it tough to take videos until the snow recedes.


----------



## Modifiedmark

svk said:


> It’s a gull damn Poulan from Home Depot, holes in the muffler are not going to make it look worse lol.
> 
> No I didn’t time it but throttle response is very markedly improved and cutting power is as well. I’ve run enough saws to know that it’s definitely significant.
> 
> I’ve timed a number of other saws though and noticed from 10 to 30 percent gains with muffler mods. Also improved torque in the cut.
> 
> Unfortunately I lost the cell phone clamp for my tripod which makes it tough to take videos until the snow recedes.




Ok, good to know.


----------



## Softdraw

Modifiedmark said:


> Ok, good to know.



To the extent anyone is still interested, the pp5020av saw (the subject of the original post) is not the same saw as the newer pr5020. The older saw has a Duralast Strato engine while the newer one has what the company calls an Oxypower engine. The new one is supposed to have the same power but lower emissions than the old. I own and run both versions and, for me, the older saw is the better saw. They share some parts, and the bars and chains are interchangeable. You can find a couple of articles comparing the two but the gist of them is the older model is a tougher, more durable saw than the new. In my view, Poulan/Husqvarna took a step backward by trying to make the new saw more "sophisticated." It may very well be, but side by side with the old it lacks the lower end torque to get through dense wood. 

The PR5020 is the exact same saw as the European McCulloch cs50. The stickers and color schemes are only slightly different. The PR5020 has 2.8 horsepower, which is the same figure as the current Husqvarna 445. I've run those side by side as well, and, all things considered, would say the 445 is the better homeowner saw. It's lighter, revs higher, and is generally more maneuverable than the heavier PR5020. The PR5020 probably shouldn't run a 20 inch bar and runs better with an 18 or 16 inch bar. The pp5020, however, is capable of running the 2o inch it came with but, again, you will find marginal improvement with a shorter bar. 

These aren't commercial saws. I think they do a pretty good job of doing what they are designed to do--help Joe Homeowner clean up debris after a storm or harvest firewood for the house. Joe doesn't care whether he's using a Strato or Oxypower engine--he just wants the yard cleaned up. Either of these will do it. But, if you're off to the woods to harvest firewood, I would take the older pp5020av. It's more reliable and brings a bit more pop to the task. 

Finally, my aunt's beach house got clobbered by a hurricane a year or two ago and she asked for help cleaning it up. The government had restrictions on who could visit the area and supplies of everything were nonexistent--no food, no fresh water, no gas. I loaded my truck with what I could and took my Echo saw for the work.


----------



## ColdNorCal

Softdraw said:


> To the extent anyone is still interested, the pp5020av saw (the subject of the original post) is not the same saw as the newer pr5020. The older saw has a Duralast Strato engine while the newer one has what the company calls an Oxypower engine. The new one is supposed to have the same power but lower emissions than the old. I own and run both versions and, for me, the older saw is the better saw. They share some parts, and the bars and chains are interchangeable. You can find a couple of articles comparing the two but the gist of them is the older model is a tougher, more durable saw than the new. In my view, Poulan/Husqvarna took a step backward by trying to make the new saw more "sophisticated." It may very well be, but side by side with the old it lacks the lower end torque to get through dense wood.
> 
> The PR5020 is the exact same saw as the European McCulloch cs50. The stickers and color schemes are only slightly different. The PR5020 has 2.8 horsepower, which is the same figure as the current Husqvarna 445. I've run those side by side as well, and, all things considered, would say the 445 is the better homeowner saw. It's lighter, revs higher, and is generally more maneuverable than the heavier PR5020. The PR5020 probably shouldn't run a 20 inch bar and runs better with an 18 or 16 inch bar. The pp5020, however, is capable of running the 2o inch it came with but, again, you will find marginal improvement with a shorter bar.
> 
> These aren't commercial saws. I think they do a pretty good job of doing what they are designed to do--help Joe Homeowner clean up debris after a storm or harvest firewood for the house. Joe doesn't care whether he's using a Strato or Oxypower engine--he just wants the yard cleaned up. Either of these will do it. But, if you're off to the woods to harvest firewood, I would take the older pp5020av. It's more reliable and brings a bit more pop to the task.
> 
> Finally, my aunt's beach house got clobbered by a hurricane a year or two ago and she asked for help cleaning it up. The government had restrictions on who could visit the area and supplies of everything were nonexistent--no food, no fresh water, no gas. I loaded my truck with what I could and took my Echo saw for the work.



Bought a used one off CL. It has the chain adjuster in the front. Is this a PP5020? And the newer PR5020's have the chain adjuster on the side?

btw- out of the country right now and cant look at the saw to confirm model number


----------



## Softdraw

Chain adjuster in the front is the older pp5020; chain adjuster on the side, next to the bar nuts, is the pr5020. I should have mentioned the new version (pr5020) improved the old one by moving the adjuster to the side rather than in front. Another way to determine the model is the color: the older pp5020 is primarily yellow with a touch of black; the newer pr5020 is primarily black with a touch of yellow.


----------



## svk

Thank you for the technical data. I’m tempted to know how they run side by side.


----------



## Softdraw

I am not a forester and far from an expert. I harvest firewood from trees that are already down and clean up yards after storms. Certainly nothing heavy duty. With Poulan products, as you've probably seen, reviews vary widely from "junk" to best value for the buck. I've been fortunate with my Poulans, the pp5020 and the newer pr5020. I actually have three pr5020's because I bought two as cheap customer returns. One of those had a bad pull chord (easily fixed) and I never did figure out what happened to the second. As far as I can tell, it runs like it should. But they work pretty well for me. They aren't Stihls or Husky's, and even I can tell a difference when running them. But I do think they are vey good for what they are, provided you care for them. I admit I always take two into the woods with me, 1) because sometimes I pinch my bar in a downed tree and I need the second saw to extricate the first and 2) because I think the second identical saw might be a necessary source of parts if something breaks or goes badly wrong.


----------



## svk

Your second return saw probably was returned after the original owner cut down one tree and once the job was finished they returned it with some sob story about how the saw wouldn’t run right. But the return policy’s loss was your gain.


----------



## Clifford NC

Softdraw said:


> I am not a forester and far from an expert. I harvest firewood from trees that are already down and clean up yards after storms. Certainly nothing heavy duty. With Poulan products, as you've probably seen, reviews vary widely from "junk" to best value for the buck. I've been fortunate with my Poulans, the pp5020 and the newer pr5020. I actually have three pr5020's because I bought two as cheap customer returns. One of those had a bad pull chord (easily fixed) and I never did figure out what happened to the second. As far as I can tell, it runs like it should. But they work pretty well for me. They aren't Stihls or Husky's, and even I can tell a difference when running them. But I do think they are vey good for what they are, provided you care for them. I admit I always take two into the woods with me, 1) because sometimes I pinch my bar in a downed tree and I need the second saw to extricate the first and 2) because I think the second identical saw might be a necessary source of parts if something breaks or goes badly wrong.


The two customer return saws you bought - were those the VMInnovations returns that are on ebay? Some are advertised as refurbished working, and some are advertised as not working, for parts only. I wonder if a carb cleaning would bring one of the parts only saws back to life.


----------



## Softdraw

svk said:


> Your second return saw probably was returned after the original owner cut down one tree and once the job was finished they returned it with some sob story about how the saw wouldn’t run right. But the return policy’s loss was your gain.



I think so, too. I know a lot of people say buying a Poulan anything, used or otherwise, is risky, but I only paid $50.00 each. Hard to go wrong at that price. Both had clearly been used but were almost new. The pull cord wasn't a big deal and the clerk didn't know anything about the other. Somebody else had taken it in, that guy wasn't working, the assistant manager didn't know anything at all about it, it'd been on the shelf awhile...I figured what the heck.


----------



## Softdraw

Clifford NC said:


> The two customer return saws you bought - were those the VMInnovations returns that are on ebay? Some are advertised as refurbished working, and some are advertised as not working, for parts only. I wonder if a carb cleaning would bring one of the parts only saws back to life.



No, I bought them both at a local Tractor Supply store. It's like a Rural King, or a cross between a feed store and cheap hardware store. The store close to me will put damaged goods in the same section with clearance items and mark them down. It's hit or miss.


----------



## svk

Our local fleet supply is clearancing out Trilink bars and chains. Picked this up for $8 today.

This will be interesting to try in hardwood with the muffler modded 5020.

(Yes I know it’s 72 link, I got rid of the oddball 70 DL bar from this saw long ago.)


----------



## Softdraw

I think that's a great deal. I've used TriLink chain, too, with some success. The key seems to be keeping it sharp. Obviously. But doing so works for me without going to the more expensive brands.


----------



## svk

I’m quite happy with the Trilink products I’ve purchased. Yes the chains stretch a bit more initially and the bars do not last as long but the prices are so reasonable (even at retail price).


----------



## moresnow

Nice to see a few 5020 users still posting. Mine has a ton of use on it now. All stock except for the tune. My big Stihl is happy resting while I use the 5020 to do most of my firewood work. Makes me laugh every time I grab the yellow saw! Talk about getting your money's worth.


----------



## LegDeLimber

The Vanguard chain can made to cut. This is the factory bar & chain on mine.
Tooth profile would have been pretty close to factory in this video.

With a bit of hook filed into the teeth, it loves those trash trees that developers leave standing in yards. 
Under 10 inch diameter and green wood, in early spring before the leaves are fully out is fun.
Health issues got in the way and I never worked out why that bar & chain combo had such a tendency to chip clog in larger wood. 
Didn't matter if I went through at full throttle of whatever.... sometimes would do it in mid cut.
(probably holding my mouth wrong!)
See the video and the end of my cut. 
That was some white oak that had been cut a few months earlier. 
The log is just laying loose in a notch of that larger trunk cut cookie, so you can see the chain is feeding and cutting pretty decently.
The saw started acting like that carb was fouled so lacking time to mess with it, I just put it aside.
I'm not needing to cut anything these days, plus a have a couple other runners, thus I haven't bothered with it.


----------



## svk

LegDeLimber said:


> The Vanguard chain can made to cut. This is the factory bar & chain on mine.
> Tooth profile would have been pretty close to factory in this video.
> 
> With a bit of hook filed into the teeth, it loves those trash trees that developers leave standing in yards.
> Under 10 inch diameter and green wood, in early spring before the leaves are fully out is fun.
> Health issues got in the way and I never worked out why that bar & chain combo had such a tendency to chip clog in larger wood.
> Didn't matter if I went through at full throttle of whatever.... sometimes would do it in mid cut.
> (probably holding my mouth wrong!)
> See the video and the end of my cut.
> That was some white oak that had been cut a few months earlier.
> The log is just laying loose in a notch of that larger trunk cut cookie, so you can see the chain is feeding and cutting pretty decently.
> The saw started acting like that carb was fouled so lacking time to mess with it, I just put it aside.
> I'm not needing to cut anything these days, plus a have a couple other runners, thus I haven't bothered with it.



Did it pile with chips only in oak? Or other species too?


----------



## LegDeLimber

That oak was the only thing I had around to cut of that size.
Also, that oak was the about the only thing I cut that was dried out.
Yeah, I wondered if dry wood was connected to the issue.

Edit: Wish I'd had enough sense to remember and tap the wood, on camera, with a hammer and give an easy way to tell how hard the wood was.
The developer had bulldozed about half the roots off of the 75 year old healthy tree. The tree was dying, that's why the outer area is a different color.

Anything else was the smaller yard trees 10" diam or smaller.
The yard stuff was usually green, still standing. A mixture of mostly oaks (broad leaf & willow) and the usual sweet gums.
Seems like neighbors only get in the mood to cut the junk trees (crooked & bent , one sided) in the spring time.


----------



## ColdNorCal

Finally got to use the 5020 I bought used last year on CL with an LPX. Needless to say, I smiled through every cut. Unlike before when I regretted buying it.

It is a bit tricky to tune though. Replaced carb, lines and filter last year and tuned it. It started and ran good. Cut like crap though. Today, 6 months later, it started easy but ran terrible. Took several atttemps at L, and H... then finally I, to get it good. To my surprise, it used A LOT of bar oil just for tuning it.

I realize this is a 5020 thread but my light and numble, muffler modded and retuned cs352 is an impressive little saw.


----------



## svk

ColdNorCal said:


> Finally got to use the 5020 I bought used last year on CL with an LPX. Needless to say, I smiled through every cut. Unlike before when I regretted buying it.
> 
> It is a bit tricky to tune though. Replaced carb, lines and filter last year and tuned it. It started and ran good. Cut like crap though. Today, 6 months later, it started easy but ran terrible. Took several atttemps at L, and H... then finally I, to get it good. To my surprise, it used A LOT of bar oil just for tuning it.
> 
> I realize this is a 5020 thread but my light and numble, muffler modded and retuned cs352 is an impressive little saw.


The CS352 as well as the 5020 are both saws that come tuned terribly from the factory and respond very well to muffler mods.


----------



## svk

The MM’d 5020 has had a workout over the past few weeks. It continues to grow on me. The only two minor complaints are that it is a gas hog for a 50 cc saw and secondly, the fuel pickup sometimes gets stuck in the corner of the tank and you don’t get all of the fuel out of the tank before the saw runs dry.


----------



## moresnow

@svk Significance of "MM'd"? What bar/chain are you running?


----------



## svk

moresnow said:


> @svk Significance of "MM'd"? What bar/chain are you running?


In my opinion, the muffler mod makes a HUGE difference in performance over a stock saw. At some point I will do a timing advance as well.

When the saw was stock, performance with the 20" 3/8 pitch 70DL bar and chain was lackluster. I sent the 70DL B+C out the door on a different saw and ran the saw with a 16" 3/8 B+C which it is much better suited for in stock form. Now I am running a 72DL 20" 3/8 bar with full chisel chain (I switched to a 72DL bar so I can swap chains with my other large saws) The MM'd saw pulls it well even in hardwood. That Raisman bar was very inexpensive through HLS and so far I have no complaints with it.

I am saving the butt section of that birch log to do a cutting test between the same brand of full comp and skip chain. I will try to get that completed this weekend.


----------



## dougand3

I was given this non-runner Craftsman 358350981 / 5020AV. 20" .325 78DL. I got it running and tested it today - bucking and noodling some maple. I was impressed even with the crappy shark fin chain. It's missing brake guts in the clutch cover and AF cover. I look to find the brake parts and they don't part that low....buy the whole Chainsaw Clutch Cover Assembly 577234602 for $50. That's ridiculous. The knee joint, spring, etc look like a Husky 450. AF cover is ~$15 used. Anybody have brake parts or clutch cover or AF cover they want to sell or trade?


----------



## mexicanyella

I have now managed to tune my 5020 a bit too lean on the high side twice, resulting in a second “soft seize.” It still starts and cuts after richening it again, but there is scoring on the piston now and looks like it will be coming apart for a new piston and ring sooner than later.

Be careful setting that mixture, folks! This one seems to have a narrower margin of error than other saws I’ve had in the past.

On a more positive note, I really like how it cuts with a new loop of Stihl RM semi-chisel chain on the stock bar.


----------



## old guy

Those need at least 2 turns out on the high screw.


----------



## Imago

My first post on this site...

My wife ran over my OLD Craftsman 14" the other day so I've been looking for a replacement. In Princess Auto today, they had reconditioned Poulan Pro 5020's for $129.99 CDN, which Is about $3.00 US.  Mine is orange... is it a new or old model?

I had bought a smaller reconditioned 14" Poulan on their website for only $74.99 but I'll likely return it. I think it is under 40cc's.

Tomorrow I'll give it a workout. Anything I should know about it or do to it before bucking up some poplar and maple dead-fall?

P.S. Anyone know if old Craftsman parts are still available? I need a right case piece to repair the Craftsman. It would be nice to have a spare saw. I can post a pic or two if anyone has some parts kicking around.


----------



## svk

Imago said:


> My first post on this site...
> 
> My wife ran over my OLD Craftsman 14" the other day so I've been looking for a replacement. In Princess Auto today, they had reconditioned Poulan Pro 5020's for $129.99 CDN, which Is about $3.00 US.  Mine is orange... is it a new or old model?
> 
> I had bought a smaller reconditioned 14" Poulan on their website for only $74.99 but I'll likely return it. I think it is under 40cc's.
> 
> Tomorrow I'll give it a workout. Anything I should know about it or do to it before bucking up some poplar and maple dead-fall?
> 
> P.S. Anyone know if old Craftsman parts are still available? I need a right case piece to repair the Craftsman. It would be nice to have a spare saw. I can post a pic or two if anyone has some parts kicking around.


An orange 5020? Please post pics.

What model craftsman are you looking for parts for?


----------



## Imago




----------



## Imago

Looks like it's a PR5020. How does this compare to the PP5020AV?


----------



## Imago




----------



## Imago

Imago said:


> View attachment 848333





Imago said:


> View attachment 848333


...and this is the reconditioned PL3314 I got for $75.00 CDN from Princess Auto as well. The reconditioned orange PR5020 was $130.00 CDN. I need to decide which one to keep. I cut less than a cord a year for my garage. Thoughts?


----------



## svk

Imago said:


> View attachment 848329


Ah yes that’s the PR5020, the successor of the PP5020. We really should have a thread on that saw, it’s only been mentioned in this one a couple times.


----------



## Imago

svk said:


> What model craftsman are you looking for parts for?


Here's the case part I need for my old Craftsman. I can salvage everything else but this case part is what got smashed.


----------



## svk

Imago said:


> Here's the case part I need for my old Craftsman. I can salvage everything else but this case part is what got smashed.


I think I can set you up with one of those. Granted with you being in canada, shipping might be a killer!


----------



## Imago

That's great! 

Let's see what shipping would be by the least expensive USPS. I think I lost the 2 bolts that hold it on as well, thinking I'd never find a replacement for my broken case. I'll look in the canvas case where I stored all the remaining parts. 

Whichever Poulan I decide to keep, it would be good to have a spare.


----------



## RedneckChainsawRepair

I've worked on a PR for a local. 
Hope to see it again after some time on it. Wouldnt run or idle out of box. 
Typical of what I have seen even on my earlier one. 

They did change from that crappy epa yellow line they were using. Told him to watch his lines still. 

imago I have a grey craftsman cover like that one needed. No brake on ours here though.


----------



## Imago

JeremiahJohnson said:


> I've worked on a PR for a local.
> Hope to see it again after some time on it. Wouldnt run or idle out of box.
> Typical of what I have seen even on my earlier one.
> 
> They did change from that crappy epa yellow line they were using. Told him to watch his lines still.
> 
> imago I have a grey craftsman cover like that one needed. No brake on ours here though.
> 
> View attachment 848573


I've got the brake parts... I just need the case part. SVK has the whole saw so we'll see if the mailing to Canada is too much for the whole saw.


----------



## svk

Imago said:


> My address


You might want to delete this from the public thread as I have it in PM as well


----------



## Imago

svk said:


> You might want to delete this from the public thread as I have it in PM as well


Done. Thanks.


----------



## drumbum

I think I may own the record low price for a 5020.

Picked up a 220 and 5020 for $1.91 each at a yardsale.


----------



## moresnow

drumbum said:


> I think I may own the record low price for a 5020.
> 
> Picked up a 220 and 5020 for $1.91 each at a yardsale.



Bwaaaahaaaaa Sweet find.
Any chance your related to a x Marine from Iowa? I got a buddy who gets those deals all the time. Sometimes he embarrasses me with his hilarious offers! Enjoy your saws.


----------



## DougMN

Looked at a 5020 the other day. Add said it might need a carb cleaning. I pulled the starter and next to no compression. Put the gauge on it, 60lds. Pulled the muffler, scored piston. Seller offered to knock $5 off the price.


----------



## drumbum

moresnow said:


> Bwaaaahaaaaa Sweet find.
> Any chance your related to a x Marine from Iowa? I got a buddy who gets those deals all the time. Sometimes he embarrasses me with his hilarious offers! Enjoy your saws.


No, relation to any marines,... but I did step in it again. Saw an add for 4 chainsaws for $100, offered $25 for the yellow/black saw...agreed. Went to purchase, handed over money, then..."do you want the other saws"? Uhmmm...sure. So...$6.25 for my second PP5020.


----------



## drumbum

For those wanting options with bar/chain combo's,...this is a part number for a .325 spur drum (574521501). Yeah not a rim, ...but....still an option.

I also need to post pics of a better fix for the strato butterfly unwanted movement.


----------



## Deleted member 117362

drumbum said:


> I think I may own the record low price for a 5020.
> 
> Picked up a 220 and 5020 for $1.91 each at a yardsale.


I was given one for free, repaired fuel cap and gave it away.


----------



## old guy

Dougmn, I'm in becker, I've got 4 of em I don't need, if you want one or all four lrt me know.


----------



## svk

I’ve got three or four. Paid 20 for the runner cause it was throwing its chain. Straightened the bent link and it was ready to go.

The rest were free.


----------



## neoborn

Please can someone let me know what tygon or good quality fuel line, from tank to carb that will work. These saws have a shitty soft clear line inside a harder outside line. What has happened on 2 of the 3 pp5020av I have is that the clear vinyl collapses and stops fuel getting to carb. Any help is appreciated...

I am not sure but have seen 3mm x 5mm and 2.5mm x 5mm sizes mentioned.


----------



## svk

I do not know what size is needed but that is the most terrible fuel line ever invented.


----------



## Cliff R

You actually own three of these fine pieces of Bovine Excrement?

I had one brought to the shop a while back, reminded me of an overgrown Wild Thing. I directed the owner of the saw outside and told him the best sound that saw will ever make is when he "tinks" it off the dumpster!

Sorry for the unkind remarks, but I've been working on small power equipment for over 40 years and there is one common denominator with all of the box-store Poulan crap.....they HATE me!......


----------



## TBS

Theyre decent when you get them to run right but keeping the carb tuned is key and can be a


----------



## neoborn

So anyone in this poulan thread can recommend the correct size of a good quality fuel line as a replacement?


----------



## svk

If you don’t have any luck here go to the Poulan thread in Chainsaw Stickies section.


----------



## brandonstc6

neoborn said:


> So anyone in this poulan thread can recommend the correct size of a good quality fuel line as a replacement?



Take your old fuel lines to a good small engine shop that sells Tygon. Get them to match it up and get the same size. Make sure the hose says Tygon on it, it will be a yellow fuel line. Some of those have two different sized hoses


----------



## Shocker

WOOT! Boost this excellent forum to the top! First post here. I bought one of these (PR5020 I think) from Tractor Supply in 2017. It is a pretty good saw. I have learned so much reading this thread from beginning to end. Mine is stock with the original chain. I had been hand sharpening them and I could never get the saw to perform as well as when it was fresh. 

Having read everything I will now go get a proper chisel or semi-chisel chain. 

I use this saw only at our lake house in North Idaho to clear the beach. We are on the open lake between the in flow from the St. Joe and Coeur d'Alene rivers. They end up dumping quite a few logs on the beach. They vary in size but most have been 12" - 15". Late last spring after our cleaning, the lake dropped a 32"+ cottonwood log about 40' long along with a 26" Ponderosa pine about 60' long we have to deal with. 

In your all's humble opinions, will this saw with a fresh chisel chain cut up that cottonwood? They drop the lake so it has been out of the water all winter along with the pine. The will still be wet at the cores, but should be OK. 

I had been thinking of getting the Echo CS-590 Timberwolf for this job and future. What do you all think?


----------



## TBS

Shocker said:


> WOOT! Boost this excellent forum to the top! First post here. I bought one of these (PR5020 I think) from Tractor Supply in 2017. It is a pretty good saw. I have learned so much reading this thread from beginning to end. Mine is stock with the original chain. I had been hand sharpening them and I could never get the saw to perform as well as when it was fresh.
> 
> Having read everything I will now go get a proper chisel or semi-chisel chain.
> 
> I use this saw only at our lake house in North Idaho to clear the beach. We are on the open lake between the in flow from the St. Joe and Coeur d'Alene rivers. They end up dumping quite a few logs on the beach. They vary in size but most have been 12" - 15". Late last spring after our cleaning, the lake dropped a 32"+ cottonwood log about 40' long along with a 26" Ponderosa pine about 60' long we have to deal with.
> 
> In your all's humble opinions, will this saw with a fresh chisel chain cut up that cottonwood? They drop the lake so it has been out of the water all winter along with the pine. The will still be wet at the cores, but should be OK.
> 
> I had been thinking of getting the Echo CS-590 Timberwolf for this job and future. What do you all think?


It will cut up the cottonwood fine but a 590 will do it faster.


----------



## moresnow

My good old reliable 5020 is fighting me! Starts, idles fine. Partial throttle is fine. Add much more throttle and it pooches. No matter where I set the high side adjustment I can't get the thing to rev? I have not pulled the carb yet. I did pull the plug (original). Actually looked acceptable. I had a new plug that came with a kit including air and fuel filter. The plug wasn't even the same reach! Way to long. Glad I compared. I did put the new air fiilter on. Maybe I have a cracked fuel line? Anyone else have there 5020 start acting like this out of the blue? Almost acts like a plugged tank vent? Hmmmm


----------



## Maintenance supervisor

Shocker said:


> WOOT! Boost this excellent forum to the top! First post here. I bought one of these (PR5020 I think) from Tractor Supply in 2017. It is a pretty good saw. I have learned so much reading this thread from beginning to end. Mine is stock with the original chain. I had been hand sharpening them and I could never get the saw to perform as well as when it was fresh.
> 
> Having read everything I will now go get a proper chisel or semi-chisel chain.
> 
> I use this saw only at our lake house in North Idaho to clear the beach. We are on the open lake between the in flow from the St. Joe and Coeur d'Alene rivers. They end up dumping quite a few logs on the beach. They vary in size but most have been 12" - 15". Late last spring after our cleaning, the lake dropped a 32"+ cottonwood log about 40' long along with a 26" Ponderosa pine about 60' long we have to deal with.
> 
> In your all's humble opinions, will this saw with a fresh chisel chain cut up that cottonwood? They drop the lake so it has been out of the water all winter along with the pine. The will still be wet at the cores, but should be OK.
> 
> I had been thinking of getting the Echo CS-590 Timberwolf for this job and future. What do you all think?


Do yourself a favor and pony up for an ms462 with a 25" bar , you really should use a professional level saw a least once in your life.
Even an older very good shape 372xp or 046 would be excellent for you.


----------



## joe25DA

Maintenance supervisor said:


> Do yourself a favor and pony up for an ms462 with a 25" bar , you really should use a professional level saw a least once in your life.
> Even an older very good shape 372xp or 046 would be excellent for you.


Great saws but not everyone can afford even a used one and some people can’t justify the cost of a commercial professional saw that isn’t going to be used that frequently. There’s a huge jump between an 046 and a 5020. I’m not familiar with the new Poulans, but with any saw the procedure is the same. Check the carb settings, if it has an intake boot, check for cracks, pull the muffler and see how the piston looks. If you have a compression tester get a reading. On a saw like that you’d want to see 130psi or higher


----------



## moresnow

Maintenance supervisor said:


> Do yourself a favor and pony up for an ms462 with a 25" bar , you really should use a professional level saw a least once in your life.
> Even an older very good shape 372xp or 046 would be excellent for you.


Ive got plenty of Stihl hardware. Including a 441, 026, 009's. All good saws. I enjoy squeezing what I can out of the 5020. Thanks for the advise but? Anywho. Off to make big wood into small wood for a buddy.

Possibly @Maintenance supervisor should grab a 5020 as a challenge


----------



## Maintenance supervisor

moresnow said:


> Ive got plenty of Stihl hardware. Including a 441, 026, 009's. All good saws. I enjoy squeezing what I can out of the 5020. Thanks for the advise but? Anywho. Off to make big wood into small wood for a buddy.
> 
> Possibly @Maintenance supervisor should grab a 5020 as a challenge


They had a wildthing build thread challenge last year and when I went to the scrapyard to get one the scrapyard owner gave me a danm 066 for free to build! Haha that got my attention. 
I do have some 3400s and a 5200 I like quite a bit.


----------



## Oletrapper

joe25DA said:


> Great saws but not everyone can afford even a used one and some people can’t justify the cost of a commercial professional saw that isn’t going to be used that frequently. There’s a huge jump between an 046 and a 5020. I’m not familiar with the new Poulans, but with any saw the procedure is the same. Check the carb settings*, if it has an intake boot, check for cracks*, pull the muffler and see how the piston looks. If you have a compression tester get a reading. On a saw like that you’d want to see 130psi or higher


Common problem. Look close. Some cracks are hard to see. They get hard and brittle from age and heat.


----------



## moresnow

I reset the carb settings yesterday in the AM. Away we went cutting. Strange deal. I cut up a Ash that buried the bar. The o'le 5020 came through again


----------



## John E Graham

I have a craftsman version of the pp5020 and was wondering if anyone has ever had the bar oil start leaking from the top of the chain cover when running? I like the saw it runs good I have cut some pretty impressive stuff with it ,thank in advance for replys.


----------



## JRM

I have one of these in my garage that belongs to a friend. He bought it new and used it one time before getting sick (cancer) It sat for 1.5 years, with gas in it. I pulled the carb apart. It was loaded with gunk. 2 thorough cleanings and I still couldn't get it to make power on the big end so I bought a new carb. A little cantankerous when cold. Idles good (cold and hot) and runs good in the cut when warm so I've left it alone for now. 

It seems to be HEAVY on bar oil usage. If left on the ground idling for a few minutes it will be sitting in a small pool of oil when picked back up. If it were suffering from a lack of oil I'd dig into the system but on a non adjustable oiler I'm not sure what can be done to mitigate the usage. 

Any thoughts?


----------



## old guy

JRM said:


> I have one of these in my garage that belongs to a friend. He bought it new and used it one time before getting sick (cancer) It sat for 1.5 years, with gas in it. I pulled the carb apart. It was loaded with gunk. 2 thorough cleanings and I still couldn't get it to make power on the big end so I bought a new carb. A little cantankerous when cold. Idles good (cold and hot) and runs good in the cut when warm so I've left it alone for now.
> 
> It seems to be HEAVY on bar oil usage. If left on the ground idling for a few minutes it will be sitting in a small pool of oil when picked back up. If it were suffering from a lack of oil I'd dig into the system but on a non adjustable oiler I'm not sure what can be done to mitigate the usage.
> 
> Any thoughts?


Oiler on those runs anytime the engine runs.


----------



## old guy

Most saws the oiler runs off the clutch drum, the 5020s run off the crankshaft, so if you set it down for a while better shut it off.


----------



## JRM

Well, that's completely not how I tend to run my Saws. Good thing it's not mine.


----------

