# Need help splitting case on my 066



## lumberjackchef (Dec 8, 2006)

I am in need of some advice on how to split the case on my 066 without damaging anything. I don't have a manual but know there is a great wealth of knowledge on this site about these types of procedures. However I haven't been able to find any on this specific model of saw. If I knew how it was supposed to be done according to the manual I'm sure I could build a jig to get it apart. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks !


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## Dan Forsh (Dec 8, 2006)

Follow the yellow brick road...

http://www.yousendit.com/download/RTT6qCxUQa95TA==

you'll find the manual you are looking for at the end of it.

Dan


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 8, 2006)

First you need a manual... Some one will help you out on AS... 

I have your PM.. sorry, been buried and...

I'll photo my old rigs/jigs, and the real stihl tools ... Be back later today...


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## Dan Forsh (Dec 8, 2006)

Lakeside53 said:


> First you need a manual... Some one will help you out on AS...
> 
> I have your PM.. sorry, been buried and...
> 
> I'll photo my old rigs/jigs, and the real stihl tools ... Be back later today...



Why can I never be as subtle as you...


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## lumberjackchef (Dec 8, 2006)

Downloading the manual now, and pictures of the jigs would be awesome.:rockn: Thanks guys!


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## MikeInParadise (Dec 8, 2006)

How much similarity is there in this manual and the one for the MS660?


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 8, 2006)

I beleive there is only one service manual... and it's for the older 064/066; nothing specific to the 660.

One thing to be careful of with manuals and IPLs is that they don't contain the techical updates... of which there are many for the 066->MS660.


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## MikeInParadise (Dec 8, 2006)

Lakeside53 said:


> I beleive there is only one service manual... and it's for the older 064/066; nothing specific to the 660.
> 
> One thing to be careful of with manuals and IPLs is that they don't contain the techical updates... of which there are many for the 066->MS660.



Thanks... Good point on the tech bulletins. I have down-loaded this


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## RaisedByWolves (Dec 8, 2006)

Dan Forsh said:


> Why can I never be as subtle as you...





Lake practices quite a bit.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 8, 2006)

RaisedByWolves said:


> Lake practices quite a bit.


 but it doesn't always work


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## lumberjackchef (Dec 9, 2006)

MikeInParadise said:


> Thanks... Good point on the tech bulletins. I have down-loaded this



Wher do you go to download the tech bulletins?


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## Dan Forsh (Dec 9, 2006)

lumberjackchef said:


> Wher do you go to download the tech bulletins?




I probably have quite a few of them, but I've never gotten round to naming the files as something I can recognise. I'll have a rummage throught them and try to post the relevant ones.


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## VT-Woodchuck (Dec 9, 2006)

Thanks Dan,
What a service!!!!  Do you have one for an 011?
This IS a great site!!!  
Kit


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## Dan Forsh (Dec 9, 2006)

Okay, I've sorted through them all and I have *17* service bulletins relating to the 066.


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## 04ultra (Dec 9, 2006)

Dan Forsh said:


> Okay, I've sorted through them all and I have *17* service bulletins relating to the 066.





Better you posting them then me.... 





.


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## Dan Forsh (Dec 9, 2006)

It's a real pain uploading these things, so you'll have to bear with me

http://download.yousendit.com/BD0E59254BC93283 

http://download.yousendit.com/5EB33760624FF4C9 

http://download.yousendit.com/F40457A547ECDA1A


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## Indiana John (Dec 9, 2006)

*011 too!*

Another vote for the 011 manual here! And if anyone can help with the 041 manual, I would really appreciate that as well!


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## RiverRat2 (Dec 9, 2006)

*Really Cool*

What a great place this is,,,, So much knowledge and good informationopcorn:

I really appreciate all who help us new comers out...

Coolest website on the planet if ya like chainsaws


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## lumberjackchef (Dec 9, 2006)

!:biggrinbounce2: Ditto!:biggrinbounce2:


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Stihl Case splitting pictures - part 1 of 2*

Starting with a "striped down" crankcase...

Take out the case screws (count them!) and punch though the two dowel pins. Remove the chain tensioner.


Here's the tools I use for a couple of years for both splitting and reassembling cranks/cases:








Here what I use now - Stihl dealer tools - really useful when you have to deal with many different cases/cranks. These tools not only split the cases and push out the cranks, but also have various left and right threaded attachments to pull the crank back into the bearings.







The old way - clutch side first:







Using the Stihl tool. This tools is really slick - pushes a crank out really easy and fits all the stihl models. A bar nut wrench is all you need to turn it.







and done...


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Stihl case splitting pictures - part 2 of 2*

Flywheel side:

My way (still use it mostly as it really quick). Make sure you get the crank AND rod in the hole/slot. One quick press (2 ton arbor press) and it's out The damn thing obviously moved when I took the photo!.







*Again :* Make sure the crank AND the rod are centered in the wood hole... before pressing...








Stihl way. This tool has holes drilled to match up to all their various cases. 








Press out the clutch side bearing - just select a socket size that will bear on the outside of the bearing.. 








And the Flywheel side - metric socket works best and you have no choice but to bear on the inside of the bearing. No big deal in most cases as you are throwing the bearing anyhow, and even if you're not, it will be o.k. if you are careful (no brute force!).









Total time - maybe 5 minutes... Takes a lot longer to write the AS post than to completely break down a case!


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## RiverRat2 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Lake can any one buy those???*

or are they dealer only stuff and what all saws are they good for ???


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 10, 2006)

They work for all saws from 024 though 088, and the cut-off saws. Maybe a few others also. Dealers aren't supposed to sell the tools, but many will. They are pretty expensive though.. even at dealer cost - the clutch side is about $140, and the ignition side about $110. Add in some dealer markup an you'd want to be serious about chainsaw work. I thought these were expensive until I priced out some Subaru special tools... 

These tools are not just "pushers". The have various left and right-hand threaded attachments that screw onto the crankshaft ends to pull the cranks back onto the bearings for assembly.

If you just bought the the clutch side, you can improvise with the rest of the assembly or disassembly. For example, if you install the clutch side first, then you can use three longer screws to gently and evenly pull the crank onto the flywheel side bearing. If you are doing a lot of crankcase reassembly, the entire set is well worth the $$ in time savings.


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## lumberjackchef (Dec 10, 2006)

Hey lake, about half of your pictures (mostly of your tools) are just red X's on my end. Did something happen to them or is it just my computer?


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 10, 2006)

*Show us your ways...*

Grrrr... I think it's fixed now... 


So... what do the rest of you guys use? How about a Husky crankcase splitting pic set??


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## lumberjackchef (Dec 10, 2006)

*Success at last!*

Third times a charm. After two attempts to make a similar puller to the stihl one, I came up with one that was beefy enough to do the job. Those things are in there good. So far Iv'e just removed the clutchside of the case, but I'll keep you posted as to the progress of my little project. Thanks a million guys, I couldn't have gotten this far without all of your asisstance. As I have said many times, " AS Members all Rock !!!:rockn:  :rockn:


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 10, 2006)

If you don't have a press to get the crank out of the other side

Look at the ignition side of the case - you'll see three small screw holes (M4) for the generator mount. Find a big THICK washer, drill three holes, mount it loose with long M4 screws, and then use a conventional 3 jaw puller hooked under the washer to PUSH the crank out. That's how I did it... for quite a while..


When you are ready to reassemble the case, if you have trouble, come back to this thread and I can step you though how to do that too with "non-stihl tools". basically using the clutch center and a series on short pipes to pull on the crank side... similar on the ignition side, then case screws to finally pull it all together.

BTW, post a pic of what you made!


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## lumberjackchef (Dec 10, 2006)

Its basically a jack screw like the stihl one just a redneck version. I'll post a pic tomorrow.


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## adkranger (Dec 10, 2006)

Redneck engineering is the best, please post. I second Lake's request, I'd like to see too......

I've got a garage sale saw I'd like to tear down to replace a cracked case so I'm feeding off your success.:hmm3grin2orange:


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 10, 2006)

Heck, and I thought my angle iron was kind of red...:hmm3grin2orange:

BTW... on a bigger saws it pays to put a block of wood in the space on the left, and use a wood clamp on that end of the angle iron... Best use a square tube or u channel though...


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Dec 11, 2006)

When you are pushing out the bearings, or reinstalling them, do you heat the case at all?


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 11, 2006)

Only on installation. The case expands on the flywheel side so you can just place the bearing by hand; on the clutch side, it has a minor effect as there is an integral cast-in Steel band that supports the bearing - it expands but at 1/3 of the rate of magnesium; you still need a press. I heat my cases in a convection oven to the factory spec for about 20 minutes - 302F... Ths way you get more working time and there is little differential stress (in comparison to heating just the area around the bearing). Any more and the paint starts to discolor.


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## blis (Dec 11, 2006)

i prefer to put bearings to freezer for few hours prior to install, alot easier than heating whoel case...


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## lumberjackchef (Dec 11, 2006)

I hadn't heard of that method before. Anybody else ever tried that, and does it work as well as heating the crankcase?


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## lumberjackchef (Dec 11, 2006)

*Screw Jack Pics*

Here's a couple of pics of my homade tools

View attachment 41488

View attachment 41489


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 11, 2006)

lumberjackchef said:


> I hadn't heard of that method before. Anybody else ever tried that, and does it work as well as heating the crankcase?




If your bearing is at room temperature (say 68) and you drop it to 28... that's 40F... If you heat your mag case from 68 to 302, that's 234F... And the mag expands 3 times the rate of steel... 

Sure every bit counts, but it's not very effective. I do sometime put my bearings in the freezer, and the cranks to, but don't find it matters much.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 11, 2006)

lumberjackchef said:


> Here's a couple of pics of my homade tools
> 
> View attachment 41488
> 
> View attachment 41489




That will work, but... the crank sticks out further then the bar stud mount plate so how do you get it all it sit flush?

I was going to make a U channel with a cap over the crank end and a nut welded on top (now displaced by the amount of the U), but never got around to it.


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## lumberjackchef (Dec 11, 2006)

Here's what it looked like on the case:
View attachment 41499


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 11, 2006)

lumberjackchef said:


> Here's what it looked like on the case:
> View attachment 41499



Check out my pic of the angle bar.. You can see the crank sticking up.. Didn't you have this? or am I not seeing something right in yout setup?


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## lumberjackchef (Dec 12, 2006)

Yeah I had that too, but the iron was thick enough that it recessed up into that and then I had the added height from the nut that I welded on too. On a different note, how do I get the bearing off of the crank ? When I pressed it out it came out still pressed onto the crankshaft:help: See pic:

View attachment 41501


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 12, 2006)

lumberjackchef said:


> Yeah I had that too, but the iron was thick enough that it recessed up into that and then I had the added height from the nut that I welded on too. On a different note, how do I get the bearing off of the crank ? When I pressed it out it came out still pressed onto the crankshaft:help: See pic:



Yep.. That happens often on the flywheel side. The magnesium has little holding power. You need to mount the crank in a couple of blocks of wood in big vice - the blocks are positoned such that they stop the crank counter-weights from moving. Then use a TWO jaw puller (most three-jaws can be rearranged) and just pull off the bearing using the crank center for the puller pivot. Use a decent sized bar and apply constant pressure - no air tools - once it moves it will come of easily.



Like this - except I'm using soft-jaws, not wood in this case.


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## SmokinDodge (Dec 12, 2006)

Lakeside53 said:


> If you don't have a press to get the crank out of the other side
> 
> Look at the ignition side of the case - you'll see three small screw holes (M4) for the generator mount. Find a big THICK washer, drill three holes, mount it loose with long M4 screws, and then use a conventional 3 jaw puller hooked under the washer to PUSH the crank out. That's how I did it... for quite a while..
> 
> ...



Lake I was planning on just using an arbor press to press the bearings in the bore for 064 and freeze the crank over night to slide into the bearings. Does that sound like it would work? This 'should' be my only bearing job for some time.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 12, 2006)

I haven't had any luck with freezing the stihl crank etc, and I don't go for heating the bearing center - differential heating is bad new for these deep roller bearings, and they have polymar cages....

You are MUCH better to "pull" the crank into the bearing. For the clutch side all you need is your clutch spider (center of clutch) and a few short lengths of pipe (with very flat and squared ends - use a lathe if you have one). Pop the pipe over the shaft until it is 3/4 of the way up the threads, thread on the clutch and tighten until it bottoms, then change the pipe insert to a longer piece and start again. Maybe 10 minutes of messing around and it's done.

You can do the same on the flywheel side or just use the three/four center case screws - may need longer screws - (small even adjustments please!) to pull the flywheel side onto the crank. If you do it this way, set your dowel pins just before you do the final tighten..


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## Dan Forsh (Dec 12, 2006)

a few more bulletins for you


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 12, 2006)

*The process continues... Assembly of the crankcase*

Here's a few quick pics... yes, I did squirt a little touch-up paint on the casings and bake them at 225F for 30 minutes (convection oven..).

The new bearings are put back into the case halves. 

Clutch side - I pressed it in at room temperature TOWARDS the inside of the case (strong flat surface to press against), then mounted the oil pump and gently pressed it back into position against the pump. If you do it towards the pump like the service manual says, it's almost impossible to get the press, case and bearing in the same plane, and the bearing will jamb... The factory has a back-stop that locks against the machined casing where the pump flange mounts to get the right depth. I don't.


Flywheel side - heated the casing to 302F for 20 minutes (convection oven - not radiant) and dropped the bearing into the recess.



Assembly - 

Flywheel side. The stihl tool screws (with an adapter) onto the crank. You keep screwing and the crank is pulled though the bearing. Really easy..







Clutch side. Same idea - screw on an adapter onto the crank






Screw on the tool and turn it counter clockwise to pull the crank though the bearing and the crankcase together. I like to set the dowel pins so they just protrude, then punch then in just before the final tighten.







And here it is done... opps... These next two pics are really for another thread... how to determine you port timing the easy way... and look how small that squish is STOCK! And yes, that's with the gasket in... Note how it tapers AWAY from the edge...












More to come on this ... likely another thread...


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## SmokinDodge (Dec 12, 2006)

Good looking work Lake. What kind of paint do you use? Is it similar in durability to the original?


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## 04ultra (Dec 12, 2006)

Andy dont stop now your half way through a complete build...   




The key word is complete.......






.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 12, 2006)

SmokinDodge said:


> Good looking work Lake. What kind of paint do you use? Is it similar in durability to the original?



It's the Stihl polyurethane paint. Works real well - not as durable as the orginal... Haven't found anything better, but you need to be careful with it for a month or so, or bake it, and even then its a bit susceptable to gas for a while.

One note - if you bake the cases to 302F to mount the bearing(s), the polyurethane paint almost melts... handle with care or you'll be doing it all again!

The factory paint is an epoxy coating. I'd sure like to get some custom made...


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## 04ultra (Dec 12, 2006)

Lakeside53 said:


> It's the Stihl polyurethane paint. Works real well - not as durable as the orginal... Haven't found anything better, but you need to be careful with it for a month or so, or bake it, and even then its a bit susceptable to gas for a while.
> 
> One note - if you bake the cases to 302F to mount the bearing(s), the polyurethane paint almost melts... handle with care or you'll be doing it all again!
> 
> The factory paint is an epoxy coating. I'd sure like to get some custom made...



Andy what about powder coat.....



.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 12, 2006)

04ultra said:


> Andy dont stop now your half way through a complete build...
> 
> 
> The key word is complete.......
> ...


It's happening... I figured I had enough 044/440/460 stuff lying around to build up a 440.. just needed a reason. It's got parts from Wagonwheeler (crushed 440), Rb_tree (junked 044 case), several unnamed sources (busted tank etc, but repairable)... and... with a little horse trading of some old 041 parts for a full warp handle and decent plastic..... But that's another thread... :biggrinbounce2: And as you know with my stuff, it will both look nice, and be be nice... Hmmm.. Might have to do a little port work with this :


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## Trigger-Time (Dec 12, 2006)

04ultra said:


> Andy dont stop now your half way through a complete build...
> The key word is complete.......
> .



Yes, don't stop!

Somebody also needs to explain how the best way to save,the very valuable
information like this thread to there computer, I have been by going to
the printer view,copy and paste to Word Doc. then you can cut out BS post
like this one before you save or print it. If there is a better way I'm all 
ears. Or start a new thread on how it should be done. (04ultra)

Lake, Very Very Good Thread! Thank you.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 12, 2006)

04ultra said:


> Andy what about powder coat.....
> 
> .



Maybe, if you wanted to go though the prep issues.. tough to get it cleaned up enough, and masked, and..

There are plenty of decent epoxy paints available - just need color matching to Stihl gray.. Sure would look nice on a beat bar, or an 056mag2


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## 04ultra (Dec 12, 2006)

Andy can you send us all a hard copy..... 


I have Classic Coatings only 4 miles away they are a big powder coater ... Im going to get prices on some prices real soon...






.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 12, 2006)

Power coat doesn't like oil/grease or many old paints. Looks cool if you can get it on. Remember you have to block off ALL screw holes and mask all machined surfaces with tape that can handle the bake temperature.


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## RiverRat2 (Dec 12, 2006)

*You Go Andy!!!!!*

This Thread is very cool opcorn:


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## 04ultra (Dec 12, 2006)

Andy we need more pictures .... 











.


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## SmokinDodge (Dec 13, 2006)

Lakeside53 said:


> It's the Stihl polyurethane paint. Works real well - not as durable as the orginal... Haven't found anything better, but you need to be careful with it for a month or so, or bake it, and even then its a bit susceptable to gas for a while.
> 
> One note - if you bake the cases to 302F to mount the bearing(s), the polyurethane paint almost melts... handle with care or you'll be doing it all again!
> 
> The factory paint is an epoxy coating. I'd sure like to get some custom made...



Thanks for the wise words of caution. I'll have to check with my dealer on the poly paint. I'm not holding my breath on it though, they are kinda backwood. I can hear it now, "Why would you paint a saw?"

Despite my ribbing they are the best guys to deal with and very knowledgeable. They just don't get out much. :hmm3grin2orange:

Keep us updated on the build, this is the kind of info everybody (me) loves to see. :rockn:


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 13, 2006)

The gray is part number 0000 000 2102, and the orange 0000 000 2101

About $6.70 a can (you can do lots of saws with one can!)


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## lumberjackchef (Dec 15, 2006)

Great info about the paint. I might as well slap a little on the case while waiting for all of my parts to arrive. My brother works in a window factory and runs the paint line. He has a computer there that can automatically match any color of paint. He offered to paint any saw that I needed to paint and they do run everything through an oven and bake it on as well. Would this be a good idea for something like my crankcase? what precautions would have to be taken? Any particular questions that I should ask if you think it would be worthwhile venture?


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 15, 2006)

lumberjackchef said:


> Great info about the paint. I might as well slap a little on the case while waiting for all of my parts to arrive. My brother works in a window factory and runs the paint line. He has a computer there that can automatically match any color of paint. He offered to paint any saw that I needed to paint and they do run everything through an oven and bake it on as well. Would this be a good idea for something like my crankcase? what precautions would have to be taken? Any particular questions that I should ask if you think it would be worthwhile venture?




Mask all machined surfaces and the inside of the crankcase, and remove any rubber parts before baking... I even remove the oil tank vent (punches out)


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## Dan Forsh (Dec 15, 2006)

some more...


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## lumberjackchef (Dec 30, 2006)

*OK Bearings are in , a little help with the crank?*

I tried to pull it in with the different lenghts of pipe. But I can only get it to go in so far. How close should the counter balance be to the inside of crankcase? :help:


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 31, 2006)

Real close... 

Once you have it mostly togther, just use the the case screws (or longer screws) to gently and evenly pull it togther...


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## lumberjackchef (Dec 31, 2006)

That wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. It back in one piece, and seals are in. I'm almost back on the road. Thanks again for all of your help guys. I really appreciate it. Happy new year to everyone as well! Keep those roostertails flying high and long as we take on 07'.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 31, 2006)

If the crank seems little tight after assembly, it's because of axial preload on the bearings. Just tap the crank firmly on the end with a dead-blow hammer - try either side until it centers and/or spins freely.


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## thompson1600 (Jan 1, 2007)

Hey Lake,

I'm getting one red X on a photo is #21 still. The one where you are pressing out the flywheel side. Thanks


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## lumberjackchef (Jan 1, 2007)

The only things that I have left to do now are the handles and finish modding the muffler. Then it will be show time. Can't wait to fire it up. Any special precautions that I should take? I gues I should explain all that I have done first to give a little context to the question. 

1) replaced crank bearings, seals, gaskets, piston, rings, wrist pin, and 1 AV buffer.

2) Decarbonized and slightly modified cylinder, raised exhaust 1mm, smoothed out all casting imperfections, polished with emery cloth.

3) Shaved 1mm off of intake side of piston.

4) opened up and dual ported muffler.(almost finished)

I know that the carb will need readjusting, and I just got my tach in the mail the other day. I'll have to put it through its paces. So far I have added about a Tbsp of 2 stroke oil to the crankcase and coated all other parts and the cylinder walls before installing on the case. I just want to be as cautious as possible because this is basically a present for a buddy of mine. He brought me his beat up old 066 that the dealers around here told him to retire. So if there are any other important precautions that I should know about please, do tell....... this has been a great way to learn and if I screw it up I'll just have to trade him mine. LOL


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## RiverRat2 (Jan 1, 2007)

lumberjackchef said:


> The only things that I have left to do now are the handles and finish modding the muffler. Then it will be show time. Can't wait to fire it up. Any special precautions that I should take? I gues I should explain all that I have done first to give a little context to the question.
> 
> 1) replaced crank bearings, seals, gaskets, piston, rings, wrist pin, and 1 AV buffer.
> 
> ...


Do you have any pix????? Did you put a kit in the carb if not I would at least pull the covers (taking care if the gaskets are stuck not to damage them a razor blade or very thin knife help them free and check that the metering diaphram is supple and not stiff and crackely, if metering diaphram is not pliable then its time for a kit anyway,, make sure cab body it is not full of trash, make sure the needle valve operates easily and is not stuck. if its a walbro make sure the end of the inlet control lever is level with the little indention it resides in,,,, I will pour a little mixed fuel in it holding my finger over the strainer orifice on the bottom and then let go and watch the fuel level drop it should fall rapidly if it dosent then you need to clean out all he passages. check the idle circuit orifice from fuel pump side into veturi bore @ bottom,make sure it is clear.. i use fine piano wire to rod out when found to be plugged flip the carb body over and make sure the strainer is clean...

Oh make sure after the cylinder is on with the spark plug removed that it spins over freely several times after that then it is time to put the plug & fuel in it and let her rip I like to crank it and let it run a bit and get up to operating temp and get stop it and check every thing no leaks chek the base line adjustment of the carb by gently bottoming out both L & H then back them out one full turn each then heat it up again before you adjust the carb and I would start out a little on the rich side on the High jet...Lakeside will tell you it is better to sart out a little rich than too lean............ Good luck


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## RiverRat2 (Jan 1, 2007)

when you ported it did you widen the ends of the exhaust port any and raise the roof 1mm,,,,what tool did you use to remove material @# the exhst port cylinder wall transition tha did not damage the bore plating????


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## lumberjackchef (Jan 1, 2007)

I used a carbide bit and my dremel,then polished it with emery cloth and 800 grit. What kind of trouble could I have caused? Hope I didn't screw it up. Thanks for your input.


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## rupedoggy (Jan 1, 2007)

When you raised the exhaust and polished it, did you remember to chamfer the edge? If you leave a nice 90 degree edge the ring will snag and shortly ruin everything you have tried to accomplish. Mike


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## lumberjackchef (Jan 1, 2007)

yes I did chamfer the edge ,to the best of my ability anyway. Thats a difficult spot for me. It seems to pull over quite smoothly though. Would it snag on every single pass or only after firing up the engine and at higher rpm's?


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## RiverRat2 (Jan 1, 2007)

lumberjackchef said:


> yes I did chamfer the edge ,to the best of my ability anyway. Thats a difficult spot for me. It seems to pull over quite smoothly though. Would it snag on every single pass or only after firing up the engine and at higher rpm's?



If you did a good job of chamfering the edge and used a carbide stone for the bulk material removal at cylinder transition and polished your chamfered work area you should be good to go and as you said the roating assembly spins over freely by hand, put the starter on and spin it pretty good and then inspect the piston closely from the top&skirt at bdc to tdc and if it looks nice with no marks I'd put the Muffler on it and bust it off and put a couple of mild heat runs on it adjust the carb (maybe pull the front muffler cover, you did open the inner baffel up a bit?) and see what the piston looks like if it looks good,,go for it and see what she will do!!!!!!!!!! some may think that is overkill but it is what I do and I have not had a problem yet.... did you take the 1mm exhaust mod around the ends of the exhaust port???(made it wider)


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## rupedoggy (Jan 1, 2007)

Sounds like you are good to go. Mike


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## lumberjackchef (Jan 1, 2007)

RiverRat2 said:


> put the starter on and spin it pretty good and then inspect the piston closely from the top&skirt at bdc to tdc and if it looks nice with no marks I'd put the Muffler on it and bust it off and put a couple of mild heat runs on it adjust the carb



I have done all of this except fire it up. Everything looks good so when I get home today and finish the muffler I will fire it up and adjust the carb like you said. Thanks again for all of your input.


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## RiverRat2 (Jan 1, 2007)

you are very welcome, let us know how it runs,,, sounds like a cool mod job. one more time,,, did you widen the exhaust port a mm on each side and where did you get the carbide tool for your dremel???? Happy new year


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 1, 2007)

lumberjackchef said:


> The only things that I have left to do now are the handles and finish modding the muffler. Then it will be show time. Can't wait to fire it up. Any special precautions that I should take? I gues I should explain all that I have done first to give a little context to the question.
> 
> 1) replaced crank bearings, seals, gaskets, piston, rings, wrist pin, and 1 AV buffer.
> 
> ...





Why did you raise the exhaust a full 1 mm?? That's going to reduce your compression, or am I missing something?


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## 046 (Jan 1, 2007)

WOW!!! thanks for taking the time to share...


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 1, 2007)

thompson1600 said:


> Hey Lake,
> 
> I'm getting one red X on a photo is #21 still. The one where you are pressing out the flywheel side. Thanks



Fixed! thanks...


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## RiverRat2 (Jan 1, 2007)

I wondered about that my self I thought the majic # was about the thickness of the base gasket or about .5mm


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 1, 2007)

He also didn't mention removing the gasket or shaving the cylinder base, and if so there's also that "squish" part.


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## lumberjackchef (Jan 1, 2007)

I was going to remove the base gasket but the new one is much much thinner than the old one. I guess I mistated the part about the exhaust. The top part of the camphered edge was approximatley 1mm from the original height of the port. Sorry, Its a little hard to decribe what you've done without pics. I need to buy a better camera that will take clear close up pictures so I can show my work. Hope you will bear with me as its still all a learning experience for me. I did the same thing on my Dolmar 120 exhaust, but I did remove the gasket on this saw. It didn't have a dramatic effect on the compression but it flat screams in the wood! It's all trial and error from here. I'll let you know how it goes.


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## RiverRat2 (Jan 1, 2007)

cool,,,, keep us posted on how it performs,,, Iam curious as to what the final compression #'s are because I am adoutr to try a similar mod to one of my 066's... Is that carbide tool a stone and where did you get it??? also did you widen the exhaust port a mm on each side or open the bottom of the transfer ports ?????


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## RiverRat2 (Jan 1, 2007)

Is that a big cedar tree in your avatar????


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## lumberjackchef (Jan 1, 2007)

My compression tester is just a cheapy but I will give you the compress #'s later tonight if I have time to fire it up still. As to the widening of the exhaust port, no I didn't widen them but I did transition the bottom of the transfers a bit. That tree was a 60+ foot pin oak. Here's a couple of pics













​We got thirteen slabs out of it total. Thats my 066 running 3/8's on a 48" granburg. 12-14 minutes per cut average on 32"-40" wide 8' long slabs.


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## lumberjackchef (Jan 1, 2007)

Ok heres' the verdict. Fired it up. let it warm up a bit very low rpm's and idle. Turned it off and it fired right up again let it idle a bit and adjusted the idle til it was smooth. gave it a half a dozen or so mid range rpm bursts then shut her down. Pulled the muffler and here's what I saw 1 hair line scratch down half of the piston. can't be felt with my fingernail though, and a couple of slightly worn splotches at the bottom of the piston measuring a couple of mm squared. Rings seem to be without scar or blemish. What do you guys think are these? major flaws or what ? Or better question what would you do? One thing I have learned is always use an old piston when experimenting. Do you think that the damage was done on the initial combustion cycle removing a couple of areas that I missed or that it will continue to progress? Man I need that camera.


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 1, 2007)

It's probably o.k.. (but a pic would really help!). A hairline scratch after a few busts - heck that piston traveled up a down a few thousand times...


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## lumberjackchef (Jan 1, 2007)

Thanks kinda what I thought but I didn't fire it back up just had to make sure!
Thanks guys. If I can get a pic to come out I will post one , but my camera really sucks at close ups.


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## RiverRat2 (Jan 2, 2007)

*I agree with Andy*

It probably OK,,, a Pic would be nice, could you see anything stuck in the ring groove in line with the scratch????? Thats why I like to basline the compression #'s also, if you take the first set cold Write them down & number them, do em the same way every time,,,, run a few tanks through let it cool off than check them again they ought to be as good or a little better,,, if it was mine I'd have another look @ the piston one more time, also if you take a pic the first time you dont have to try to remember if it got worse or how much worse,,,, chances are if you didnt hang a ring with those first few burst, and if the scratch doesnt intensify then your port work is probably,,, good to go, and you've got yourself a good runner there,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


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## lumberjackchef (Jan 2, 2007)

The cold compression test read 158 psi. I will fire it back up today and take another after it warms up. BTW this thing sounds like Bad#@% saw.


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## lumberjackchef (Jan 2, 2007)

After it warmed up to normal operating temp the compression was 145psi two times in a row. Wanted to see how consistent the guage would be and it read the same. Put on the tach and set it up at about 12500rpm. It runs really well now. Here's a couple of pics of what it looks like after the mods.














Well now after a couple of tanks of fuel she starts, runs, cuts smoooooooooth, and idles Great! I am one happy camper! A Million Thanks to you all!!!!:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: !!!!!!!!


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## adkranger (Jan 2, 2007)

Nice work Lumber, she sure looks like a runner to me. How 'bout a .wav file of how she sounds... 

Thanks to Lake and the rest for the info, I've been feeding off this for my tear down/rebuild. I've got my 371 down to bare case with crank and 'bout ready to attempt a redneck splittin' operation utilizing Lake's and Lumber's homemade tools as inspirations. Along those lines I'd like to second Lake's request for a Husky thread along these lines..... please:help: for a 371/372/365 xp would be just awsome. Of course I'll be to assembly by then, but could use any words of wisdom. Like what NOT to do.:bang: :bang:  I have a tendancy to get impatient.


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 3, 2007)

Yes, I also want to see Husky posts! I have to work on them now and then, and need to quit faking it!


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## rbtree (Jan 3, 2007)

Uh oh....So I should check to see if you put an 066 piston in that 353, err 346.....

Cindy said you faked something in a back room last nite.....bad boy bad boy.....must be a Kiwi thing...:rockn:


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 3, 2007)

rbtree said:


> Uh oh....So I should check to see if you put an 066 piston in that 353, err 346.....



You might want to check if there is a piston at all...



rbtree said:


> Cindy said you faked something in a back room last nite.....bad boy bad boy.....must be a Kiwi thing...:rockn:



I wonder how she knew? she wasn't with me


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## lumberjackchef (Jan 13, 2007)

adkranger said:


> Nice work Lumber, she sure looks like a runner to me. How 'bout a .wav file of how she sounds...




Here you go see if this works

http://us.f13.yahoofs.com/bc/43f44d58m6b9874d4/bc/My+Documents/chainsaw/jerrys.wav?BC0WVqFBb.GJdGpC

It worked when I previewed it, so I think it should be good. I have it a little on the rich side still, but as soon as you put it in the wood it immediately stops the four stroking or burbling. I'm trying to get my video of it up so you can see it cut too. Wish me luck. 

I'm working on #2, an Ebay Red Light Special. Torn down, just recieved the parts today. I bought some of that paint that lake was talking about earlier in the thread. Gonna paint it up before I put it back together this time. I'll put up some pics of that one too. Let me know if the .wav doesn't work.-chad


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 13, 2007)

lumberjackchef said:


> Here you go see if this works
> 
> http://us.f13.yahoofs.com/bc/43f44d58m6b9874d4/bc/My+Documents/chainsaw/jerrys.wav?BC0WVqFBb.GJdGpC
> 
> ...




Nope - doesn't work.. Just attach it.


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## lumberjackchef (Jan 13, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> Nope - doesn't work.. Just attach it.



I tried that and it told me invalid file extention. If you look through the list on the attatchment pop up screen, it doesn't say that it supports .wav file extention. :help:


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 13, 2007)

lumberjackchef said:


> I tried that and it told me invalid file extention. If you look through the list on the attatchment pop up screen, it doesn't say that it supports .wav file extention. :help:



So "zip" it....


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## lumberjackchef (Jan 13, 2007)

*Video of the 066*

Finally got a video to work. Try this one out guys!
View attachment 43630


:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 13, 2007)

Sounds like an 026:hmm3grin2orange: 

Nice!


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## lumberjackchef (Jan 13, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> Sounds like an 026:hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> Nice!



If your 026 sounds and runs like that, I want to buy it! Name your price.:biggrinbounce2: I could pack one of those around in the woods all day long !


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 13, 2007)

O.K. - $2000 

Probably just the crappy "speakers" on my laptop....


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## lumberjackchef (Jan 13, 2007)

Actually it was probably my $10 Wally World Microphone:hmm3grin2orange:


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## stihl044forfree (Jun 3, 2007)

lumberjackchef said:


> Here's what it looked like on the case:
> View attachment 41499





so is this tool to push the crank out and if it is 
did you grind down the screw to a poited or is it just the way it was purchased?


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 3, 2007)

You need to grind a bevel so it centers in the crank


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## stihl044forfree (Jun 3, 2007)

i get it knwo i grind it down to look like the end of a wheel puller 
like the one yuo used to use to pulll your crank


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## NovaMan (Jun 11, 2007)

This thread makes me want to get a project saw.
Anybody got a 192T with a smoked piston and cylinder? :greenchainsaw:


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## stihl044forfree (Jun 11, 2007)

no but i have a poulan 16 inch with fried bearings you can have for 50 bucks
lol


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 11, 2007)

NovaMan said:


> This thread makes me want to get a project saw.
> Anybody got a 192T with a smoked piston and cylinder? :greenchainsaw:



Don't do it... a burnt up 192 is not a good project saw... neither is a 200T...


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## RiverRat2 (Jul 1, 2007)

*no convection oven available,,,*



Lakeside53 said:


> Here's a few quick pics... yes, I did squirt a little touch-up paint on the casings and bake them at 225F for 30 minutes (convection oven..).
> 
> The new bearings are put back into the case halves.
> 
> ...



Andy,,
will a regular oven work for heating crankcases to install brg.s and curing paint????

my bud who races outboards uses an old electric oven to heat blocks for sleeve bore installs, and has offerd to let me use it for a couple of my 066's Im finally finishing up????


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## stihl044forfree (Jul 1, 2007)

it should i am going to just use a heat gun and an arpor press to put my bearings in 
which buy the way should be here any day


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## chainsawjunky (Jul 1, 2007)

If you got a good hair dryer that should work. Andy told me the regular oven don't work as well as the convection oven. I used a hairdryer to slip in the bearings and I also used it on the piston to get the piston pin to slide in. I also put the bearings and piston pin in the freezer just so I could touch them longer before they got hot.

Evan


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## Lakeside53 (Jul 1, 2007)

The "regular" oven can work but you MUST shield the case from the element radiation. Think of a turkey - cover it with foil and it won't char...


If you are painting... I'd heat the oven up, then turn it off and put in the painted item...


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## Rockfarmer (Mar 5, 2009)

Lakeside, Im trying to split my 045, I made a pusher, bolted it to the bar studs but she doesnt want to split easily. I see on p.2 you mentioned 2 dowels. Should I be pushing these out first before splitting case halves and how? I'm worried these things are rusted and set in good like the flywheel was and wont budge. Also when I start hammering these things are they going to mushroom out and then be really stuck? 

Excellent thread here,.. very clear and great pics, thanks a million


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 5, 2009)

You must punch out the dowel pins first.... Just use a flat end punch and a hammer to TAP them out... They are hardened steel - won't mushroom (easily).


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## RiverRat2 (Mar 5, 2009)

*Wow,,,*



Rockfarmer said:


> Lakeside, Im trying to split my 045, I made a pusher, bolted it to the bar studs but she doesnt want to split easily. I see on p.2 you mentioned 2 dowels. Should I be pushing these out first before splitting case halves and how? I'm worried these things are rusted and set in good like the flywheel was and wont budge. Also when I start hammering these things are they going to mushroom out and then be really stuck?
> 
> Excellent thread here,.. very clear and great pics, thanks a million




its Good to see these good old treds (ST for threads) being found by the search function by the newbs and stihl being used!!!!!!!! rep coming!!!!!!! Rock farmer!!!!!! 

Kudos to Lakeside for his work here,,, He is a great guy!!!!!!!! And he likes a good Micro Brewed Beer!!!! and now so do I,,,,, a formerly known Budwieser fan!!!!!!! Not any more!!!!!!! Give me a good dark porter or an amber looking full bodied IPA,,, and Im good to go after a couple/three Ehhh? My lil Kiwi buddy??????? LOLOL!!!!


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## Rockfarmer (Mar 5, 2009)

RiverRat2 said:


> its Good to see these good old treds (ST for threads) being found by the search function by the newbs and stihl being used!!!!!!!! rep coming!!!!!!! Rock farmer!!!!!!
> 
> Kudos to Lakeside for his work here,,, He is a great guy!!!!!!!! And he likes a good Micro Brewed Beer!!!! and now so do I,,,,, a formerly known Budwieser fan!!!!!!! Not any more!!!!!!! Give me a good dark porter or an amber looking full bodied IPA,,, and Im good to go after a couple/three Ehhh? My lil Kiwi buddy??????? LOLOL!!!!



You guys are the ones that deserve the rep! What a great find!  :agree2:


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## super2nr (Mar 5, 2009)

remove cylinder and piston and all exturnal parts,so all you have is a bare crankcase.Remove crankcase screws,heat around bearings with propane torch,crankcase should come apart very easly.


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 5, 2009)

That doesn't work on almost all pro stihls - they have the a steel insert in the clutch side. It can work on the FW side, but often the bearing is slightly corroded into the case...


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 5, 2009)

RiverRat2 said:


> I,,,,, a formerly known Budwieser fan!!!!!!! Not any more!!!!!!! Give me a good dark porter or an amber looking full bodied IPA,,, and Im good to go after a couple/three Ehhh? My lil Kiwi buddy??????? LOLOL!!!!





I see you've had a few microbrews tonight. Me too...:greenchainsaw:


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## RiverRat2 (Mar 6, 2009)

*Yeah!!!!!!!!*



Lakeside53 said:


> I see you've had a few microbrews tonight. Me too...:greenchainsaw:




LOLOLOL!!!!!! I suppose 3 or 4 fall into the "few/Servel" Category!!!!!!!!! 

Yep!!!!!! been working on a new Mill @ the shop,,,,,,,

Wait till you see this Bridgeport II


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## Lakeside53 (Mar 6, 2009)

BP series 2 or 2J? Bring it on over.. I'll check it out Mills... all I seem to do is work on mine. latest - I now have dro on all 4 axis. No more dropped knee handles and lost counts!

As you'll find out, the mill is the cheap part... then there's the tooling...


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## RiverRat2 (Mar 15, 2009)

Lakeside53 said:


> BP series 2 or 2J? Bring it on over.. I'll check it out Mills... all I seem to do is work on mine. latest - I now have dro on all 4 axis. No more dropped knee handles and lost counts!
> 
> As you'll find out, the mill is the cheap part... then there's the tooling...



Yep,,,,, the tooling and indicators can cost a bit!!!! Photos in a day or few????? LOLOL!!!!!! :greenchainsaw:


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## chainsaw guy (Dec 11, 2011)

Hey you guys are great...Full of good Info. I like to make some of my own tools and you guys helped soooo much..

Thanks a lot guys..Chainsaw Guy


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## WoodChuck'r (Dec 11, 2011)

Well at least this thread started last week....


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## fullchisel73 (Dec 31, 2012)

*stihl crankcase*

How do u go about getting a stihl crankcase splitter?


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## pioneerguy600 (Dec 31, 2012)

Click yer heels three times and make a wish!


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## angelo c (Jan 1, 2013)

fullchisel73 said:


> How do u go about getting a stihl crankcase splitter?



It's easy...just become a Stihl dealer...or start being really, really nice to one..


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## jicibi (Feb 27, 2013)

Hello,
I read all the thread, and thanks to you, I have remove balls bearing. But I have problem for close the case...



Lakeside53 said:


> I haven't had any luck with freezing the stihl crank etc, and I don't go for heating the bearing center - differential heating is bad new for these deep roller bearings, and they have polymar cages....
> 
> You are MUCH better to "pull" the crank into the bearing. For the clutch side all you need is your clutch spider (center of clutch) and a few short lengths of pipe (with very flat and squared ends - use a lathe if you have one). Pop the pipe over the shaft until it is 3/4 of the way up the threads, thread on the clutch and tighten until it bottoms, then change the pipe insert to a longer piece and start again. Maybe 10 minutes of messing around and it's done.
> 
> You can do the same on the flywheel side or just use the three/four center case screws - may need longer screws - (small even adjustments please!) to pull the flywheel side onto the crank. If you do it this way, set your dowel pins just before you do the final tighten..



I don't understand how to do that.
Do I need different steel pipe size that I will press with the clutch help ?
Is it the process ?
Thanks for your help


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## oaky (Feb 13, 2019)

wish all the pictures didnt disappear. this looked like a great thread.
anyone know what lakes dealership tools looked like?


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## arto_wa (Dec 5, 2019)

oaky said:


> wish all the pictures didnt disappear. this looked like a great thread.
> anyone know what lakes dealership tools looked like?




I just finished reading this thread, while waiting for my Farmertec 660 / 066 kit to arrive and fully agree! 

Wish we could see the tool photos (mainly the homemade tools) in this old thread somehow?


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## pioneerguy600 (Dec 5, 2019)

Those were the days!


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