# Stihl 076 AV conversion to 3/8 - trouble



## phred45 (Aug 11, 2010)

Hopefully some of you 076 owners will see this and have some advice.
This discussion was started on "084 versus 090 versus 076".
I bought a Stihl 076 AV powerhead and wanted to convert it to 3/8 for milling. Being new to milling and big saws I had no idea what I was getting into. Thanks to the guys on the other thread here is what I have so far:
The parts are from Bailey's and everything seemed fine until I put the chain on and it won't move. When forced by hand it comes out of the drive sprocket. It looks like the sprocket and bar are not properly aligned but why?
I checked everything for spurs and visible problems. The drive sprocket moves fine until the chain goes on. I took it apart several times without results. Could the oil pump be sitting too high - didn't take it out.

Oregon Power Mate Rim & Drum System for Stihl 050, 051, 075 and 076
Drive Sprocket Rim (Standard Spline) 375-8 Tooth
36" Carlton Premium Sprocket Tip Bar (36-57-B3104-PS)
WoodlandPro 33RP Ripping Chainsaw Chain

Here are some pics:


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## mtngun (Aug 11, 2010)

Great pics, phred45.  That helps a lot.
















in this photo, the rim appears to be aligned with where the bar would be. 





I have a question, not intended to insult your intelligence, but I have to ask just to be thorough, and not to overlook anything.

Your new Carlton bar came with a 404 nose sprocket. As we discussed before, it is necessary to remove the 404 nose sprocket and install a 3/8 nose sprocket on the bar, instead. Did you do that ?


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## phred45 (Aug 11, 2010)

Thanks Mntgun,
Don't worry about insults. May be a few years down the road I might lift an eyebrow. Right now anything is possible. I do costomer service for computer programs and when I get those "nothing works" calls, my favorite is to check that it's plugged into the outlet. You'll be amazed how often the problem is that simple.
Actually Bailey's offered to put the 3/8 sprocket nose on for me no charge, I thought that was nice. Your question is very legitimate, they did send the 404 sprockets and chains but ( that's why it all took so long) the nose has 3/8 written on it. The rim is sitting just slightly higher than the bar. Bobl has asked to get some better pictures with the chain and bar on so I'll do that tonight.


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## mtngun (Aug 11, 2010)

phred45 said:


> the nose has 3/8 written on it.


OK, sounds good, we can rule that out.

Once again, I am stumped.


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## srcarr52 (Aug 11, 2010)

*Spline rim float?*






Looks like the oil pump drive cogs are holding the spline rim up in this picture. 

The spline rim should be able to float between the clutch drum and the dust shield freely to find it's happy place in line with the bar. Bar thickness can vary so the spline rim system uses the slop here like a spur gear allows the chain to slide on the gear to line up with the bar.

On outboard clutch style husky's the spline rim can slide over the oil pump drive cogs. Is the rim even close to sliding over the drive cogs in this case? Something else holding it up?


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## mtngun (Aug 11, 2010)

srcarr52 said:


> Is the rim even close to sliding over the drive cogs in this case?


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## Brmorgan (Aug 11, 2010)

I agree, I think it's pinching on the oiler drive. I had a similar issue converting an 045AV from spur to rim - the rim setup needed a different oiler drive washer, which has the profile of the splines cut into it and fits over the splines on the drum to engage it. The old spur one just used a little metal pin which fit into a recess in the spur sprocket. Maybe you're having a similar problem and need a new oiler drive system to match as well? I don't see a separate part on the IPL though.


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## mtngun (Aug 11, 2010)

Brmorgan said:


> I had a similar issue converting an 045AV from spur to rim - the rim setup needed a different oiler drive washer, which has the profile of the splines cut into it and fits over the splines on the drum to engage it. Maybe you're having a similar problem and need a new oiler drive system to match as well? I don't see a separate part on the IPL though.


You may be right, however ....... if I understood Phred45 correctly, the saw was already set up for a rim when he acquired it. All Phred45 did was install a new drum and a new rim.

That's why I'd like to see the old parts sitting next to the new parts, to see what changed. Or then again, maybe it was incorrect when he acquired it.


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## Brmorgan (Aug 11, 2010)

OK then. I must admit I've not been following that other thread terribly closely.

I think the rim drum is not designed to fit that oiler setup and is not being allowed to sit down far enough on the crank. Because the drum isn't down over the drive tabs, the rim can drop down onto them because its larger ID will fit over the washer's collar. This would cause problems, I'm sure. Another possibility is that with the drum sitting out too far, when the clutch is spun onto the crank, instead of it bottoming out on the shoulder at the end of the threads, it pushes on the drum, pinching it against the oiler.


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## 076 stihl (Aug 12, 2010)

*oil drive*

Simple I have the same saw either you drive the oil pump with pins or the tangs (sqaure things on the oil pump gear) not both if the drum has the square notches ditch the pins and all will be fine. Unless somebody knows different I think I am right because it works.

Matt


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## phred45 (Aug 12, 2010)

Thanks guys,
Unfortunately I threw the old parts away, thinking I was all set to go. When the saw came it had a 404 rim sprocket. Since I didn't have a bar for it, I never got to run it. So I figured I may as well change the whole thing over to 3/8. When finally all the parts arrived the chain wouldn't move. The square lugs from the oil pump gear hold the rim up too high. At least that is what I think. The manual calls for another rim on the 075 but i don't know if that is the same for the 076.

To avoid having to change the oil pump system (not cheap) can I go with a 3/8 spur sprocket instead?

I'm going to the dealer here in a couple of hours to see what they have to say. However, I have little hope for that, they aren't too friendly and don't deal with big saws as a rule. Mostly a lawn and garden type dealer. 
Will let you know what they say.


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## mtngun (Aug 12, 2010)

phred45 said:


> To avoid having to change the oil pump system (not cheap) can I go with a 3/8 spur sprocket instead?


I'm guessing whatever clutch drum you buy has to be compatible with your oiler, and apparently not all oilers and drums are compatible with each other. That may hold true whether the drum is the rim type or the spur type.

I feel bad enough for recommending the new clutch drum that didn't work.  Well, the description said it would fit the 076. It probably does, if you have the right combination of parts.

If the dealer doesn't have answers, you might try posting on the chainsaw forum. There's more traffic over there and one of the 076 owners may be able to educate us and post pics, part #'s, etc.. 

Also, you might try explaining the problem to Grande Dog and see if he knows anything.

Some pics I found on the bay. 

Here's a drum that appears to slide over the oiler lugs. Does your drum look like this ?





A spur drum that slides over the oiler lugs.





Here's an 076 drum that appears NOT to slide over the oiler lugs.





Aha ! ! ! Here's the answer. Apparently the 076 requires a SPECIAL rim, which naturally costs more money. The special rim slides over the oiler lugs.





Here's the ebay link.

The seller claims the rim part # is 0000 642 1215.

That rim does appear to fit your oiler lugs, however, there is still a question of whether your clutch drum fits your oiler lugs, since you have not posted a picture showing us that side of your clutch drum

Hope that helps. Again, I feel bad for giving you inaccurate advice about the clutch drum and rim from Baileys. I wasn't aware that 076 drums were so complicated.


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## 076 stihl (Aug 12, 2010)

*rim sprocket*

well if they wont help you maybe I can my saw has oregon drum #22262 and rim sprocket 22270 and is 404 but any rim including 375 which is 22273 will fit . The drum and rim sets are 22262x for 404 and 22271x for 375.
All you should need from your old parts is the pump cover.

Matt:greenchainsaw:


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## mtngun (Aug 12, 2010)

076 stihl said:


> well if they wont help you maybe I can my saw has oregon drum #22262 and rim sprocket 22270 and is 404 but any rim including 375 which is 22273 will fit . The drum and rim sets are 22262x for 404 and 22271x for 375.
> All you should need from your old parts is the pump cover.
> 
> Matt:greenchainsaw:


That's helpful, but does your 076 have the rectangular oiler lugs like phred's ?

I believe Phred does have the 22262X drum from Baileys.


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## BobL (Aug 12, 2010)

If I was at home In Oz I would have been able to go down to my shed and look at my 076 and sort this out back at post one.

Come to think of it i'm pretty sure mine has the special sprocket with the indents it the inside rim.


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## 076 stihl (Aug 12, 2010)

yes it does


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## phred45 (Aug 12, 2010)

:biggrinbounce2:Well, I'm back from the dealer. Pleasant surprise there. They have a new guy in the shop, much easier to talk to. As you guys already figuered out, I had the wrong parts. They had the right rim at the shop and it fits nicely over the luggs. The rim has notches like the e-bay picture Mtngn shows. However, the chain still doesn't ride smoothly, it makes clicking sounds in the rim/drum area like there is something in the way. They think that the drum also needs to be replaced with the correct part ($46 for the kit-outch). Hopefully that will fix it. Unfortunately the dealer said it would take 2 weeks to get them in. I may have a closer look at the e-bay ones.

076 Stihl, I first ordered the 3/8 kit from Bailey's and they sent the 22262 for the 404. So I called them and they said all I needed to exchange was the rim and they sent the 22273. Neither of the rims had the notches for the square lugs eventhough they show the Stihl part number the same as the e-bay rim. I also think that the drum should have been changed to the 3/8 because the part number is not the same. I really don't know what went wrong. Like mtngn said, they looked like the right parts and the pictures on Bailey's are not useful.

So Mtngn, don't worry, have a beer . It's way too hot to work outside any way. Besides, even though frustrating, this is quite a learning experience. I suspected I didn't know much, now I know.:biggrinbounce2:


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## BobL (Aug 12, 2010)

phred45 said:


> :biggrinbounce2:Well, I'm back from the dealer. Pleasant surprise there. They have a new guy in the shop, much easier to talk to. As you guys already figuered out, I had the wrong parts. They had the right rim at the shop and it fits nicely over the luggs. The rim has notches like the e-bay picture Mtngn shows. However, the chain still doesn't ride smoothly, it makes clicking sounds in the rim/drum area like there is something in the way.



Some clicking is normal with new chains and sprockets but sometimes it's the wrong chain-sprocket combo. Assuming this is OK generally if you squirt some extra bar and chain oil onto the chain and run it for a few minutes it will smoothen up. Make sure you sort out your drum issue first.


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## 076 stihl (Aug 12, 2010)

Wow my rims have the notches actually 3 of them sort of weird but two on both line up with with the drive dogs. I do have old parts because I bought mine from cheap chainsaw parts and the boxs look like they are 10+ years old LOL. I really appreciate the heads up if I buy new stock I will make sure I have the bridgeport set up to mill those pesky notches! Thanks for the info!

Matt


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## mtngun (Aug 12, 2010)

phred45 said:


> I also think that the drum should have been changed to the 3/8 because the part number is not the same.


The drum should be the same regardless whether a 3/8 or 404 rim is used. 

Yes, I realize Oregon gives them different part numbers. 

Is Bailey's going to take the drum back, since it didn't fit ? Does the Baileys drum not have the notches for the oiler ?

Anyway, I'm glad you're making progress. It's been educational for me.


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## mtngun (Aug 12, 2010)

076 stihl said:


> I will make sure I have the bridgeport set up to mill those pesky notches!


You'll burn through expensive carbide end mills trying to machine those rims. They're made out of sintered metal and have hard stuff in them.


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## Brmorgan (Aug 13, 2010)

I'm a bit lost - I've never seen a rim that has to be locked onto the oiler drive before. Rims are supposed to be able to float on the drum's splines, no? I'd think the drum should have the cutout areas, much like the larger Husky (288/395 etc.) drums do.


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## 076 stihl (Aug 13, 2010)

wow you like to argue i have tooling man get a grip dude i own a machine shop and would help our buddy out for free!!!

Matt


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## BobL (Aug 13, 2010)

Brmorgan said:


> I'm a bit lost - I've never seen a rim that has to be locked onto the oiler drive before. Rims are supposed to be able to float on the drum's splines, no? I'd think the drum should have the cutout areas, much like the larger Husky (288/395 etc.) drums do.



It doesn't have to be locked on, it just needs to be able to float down so it does not contact the pins.


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## BobL (Aug 13, 2010)

076 stihl said:


> wow you like to argue i have tooling man get a grip dude i own a machine shop and would help our buddy out for free!!!
> 
> Matt



So do some others here, and they speak from experience because they have actually milled these suckers. But how about posting a video of you milling one to show us how easy it is


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## Brmorgan (Aug 13, 2010)

BobL said:


> So do some others here, and they speak from experience because they have actually milled these suckers. But how about posting a video of you milling one to show us how easy it is



opcorn:  opcorn:


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## phred45 (Aug 13, 2010)

Hi 076 Stihl,
You shouldn't have to mill your own, just make sure you get the right parts. From what I can figure out so far : Bailey's stocks the kit# 1111 640 2025 while the saw needs 1111 640 2026 and the rim for 3/8 should be 0000 642 1215 (like Mtngn's e-bay pic) while Bailey's is 1216. I'll confirm this when my parts from the dealer get here, he is ordering the 2026 kit, lets hope it's right this time.

As far as free floating of the rim: It seems to lock onto the lugs from the oil drum worm so I guess that part is moving with it? 

I'm not a mechanic, work on our own cars but that's about it. Wished I knew more about welding like Bobl to make nice rigs. Maybe when I retire


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## phred45 (Aug 18, 2010)

*Finally everything fits*

The rim came in yesterday. The 0000 642 1215 is correct and floats down over the luggs and runs smoothly. Stihl seems to make two different rims under the same #. One has 3 notches and the other has two. I found the one with 3 notches at a different dealer when I was out of town. They both fit fine.

I fired the saw up for the first time with the bar and chain on and it runs like it should. The timing is still off and needs adjusting. Are there any threads on that? Also got the aux oiler and need to install it. This weekend will be the show down. Let's hope it all works.

Thanks for the new milling thread Bobl. Really appreciate all your effort to help.


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## mtngun (Aug 18, 2010)

phred45 said:


> The rim came in yesterday. The 0000 642 1215 is correct and floats down over the luggs and runs smoothly. Stihl seems to make two different rims under the same #. One has 3 notches and the other has two. I found the one with 3 notches at a different dealer when I was out of town. They both fit fine.
> 
> I fired the saw up for the first time with the bar and chain on and it runs like it should. The timing is still off and needs adjusting. Are there any threads on that? Also got the aux oiler and need to install it. This weekend will be the show down. Let's hope it all works.
> 
> Thanks for the new milling thread Bobl. Really appreciate all your effort to help.


Good deal. 

Is this with the Oregon drum, or do you have a Stihl drum now ?


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## srcarr52 (Aug 18, 2010)

*ignition timing*



phred45 said:


> The timing is still off and needs adjusting. Are there any threads on that?



Good to hear that you've figured out the drive hub issue.

Search the chainsaw posts for adjusting ignition timing or advancing ignition timing and you'll find some procedures on adjusting the timing of your saw. Usually for a stock saw the factory setting is good enough, but I don't know about your model in particular. I would look up threads on adjusting the carb and do that first. Remember a little bit extra rich on the high speed jet for milling will keep your saw from melting during a long cut.


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## phred45 (Aug 18, 2010)

Yes, it works fine with the Oregon drum. 

The saw is pretty old and well used. I have no idea who owned it and what they may have done. It runs and cuts easily through the little 8 inch maple branch I had sitting around. However it doesn't idle very well and the chain is still moving some in idle. This weekend will be the real test. Do any of you have any suggestions for a cheap Tachometer that works?


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## mtngun (Aug 18, 2010)

Thanks for clarifying that the Oregon drum works. I wanted to clear that up in case someday another 076 owner searches for info on the sprocket problem and looks at this thread. 

"Cheap" and "chainsaw tach" don't go together. 

The $30 ENM is fine for CSM duty, but its 5 second lag makes it a poor choice for tuning.


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## betterbuilt (Aug 18, 2010)

I don't want to steal phred45 thread but I wanted to show my new saw. 

Its running 404 and after reading the hassle phred45 I think I'll leave it alone for now. 

I just did a quick once over and changed the gas and started it up and its sounds like its running a Fine but it dies every few seconds. My gut feeling its related to fuel. 

The guy I got it from said it had been sitting for eight months. Any ideas of where to start?


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## BobL (Aug 18, 2010)

phred45 said:


> The rim came in yesterday. The 0000 642 1215 is correct and floats down over the luggs and runs smoothly. Stihl seems to make two different rims under the same #. One has 3 notches and the other has two. I found the one with 3 notches at a different dealer when I was out of town. They both fit fine.
> 
> I fired the saw up for the first time with the bar and chain on and it runs like it should. The timing is still off and needs adjusting. Are there any threads on that? Also got the aux oiler and need to install it. This weekend will be the show down. Let's hope it all works.
> 
> Thanks for the new milling thread Bobl. Really appreciate all your effort to help.



No worries. I really doubt it will be a timing. It sounds like the thing just needs a good tune up.


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## phred45 (Aug 18, 2010)

Well Bobl, let's see. It has a new air filter, fuel filter (cleaned oil and gas tank), spark plug, clutch drum and drive sprocket. Also a new bar and chain. What else should I do? I've also been looking at your oiler configurations for the mill, should have some time to play with that this week end.

Betterbuilt, the main problem here was that I am such a novice with saws and milling that I had no idea what I was looking at. The parts list and repair manual should help a lot. The part numbers for the 404 (7 T) rim sprocket is 0000 642 1206 or the number for the 404 kit is 1111 640 2025. The confusion came in because the wrong 3/8" rim was listed on Bailey's for 076. If you already have a rim sprocket on your saw all you'll need is the right 3/8" 8T sprocket if you want to convert to 3/8", Stihl seems to be the only one that makes it. Since my saw had a spur sprocket I also had to get a clutch drum and removal tool. Bailey's put the 3/8 nose on the bar I bought for free. 
Good luck with yours. It'll be nice to compare how they run, once your's is going.


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## smokinj (Aug 18, 2010)

phred45 said:


> Well Bobl, let's see. It has a new air filter, fuel filter (cleaned oil and gas tank), spark plug, clutch drum and drive sprocket. Also a new bar and chain. What else should I do? I've also been looking at your oiler configurations for the mill, should have some time to play with that this week end.
> 
> Betterbuilt, the main problem here was that I am such a novice with saws and milling that I had no idea what I was looking at. The parts list and repair manual should help a lot. The part numbers for the 404 (7 T) rim sprocket is 0000 642 1206 or the number for the 404 kit is 1111 640 2025. The confusion came in because the wrong 3/8" rim was listed on Bailey's for 076. If you already have a rim sprocket on your saw all you'll need is the right 3/8" 8T sprocket if you want to convert to 3/8", Stihl seems to be the only one that makes it. Since my saw had a spur sprocket I also had to get a clutch drum and removal tool. Bailey's put the 3/8 nose on the bar I bought for free.
> Good luck with yours. It'll be nice to compare how they run, once your's is going.



Tune up on a saw is adjusting the carb


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## BobL (Aug 18, 2010)

This applies to BB an Phred.

I would change the fuel filter and inspect the fuel hose inside the tank and impulse line closely for cracks and leaks. Then I would do a crankcase pressure test. I'd you do not do this you risk the saw running too lean and overheating.

Finally Would adjust the carby. The final setting should be a little on the rich side.


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## betterbuilt (Aug 18, 2010)

phred45 said:


> Betterbuilt, the main problem here was that I am such a novice with saws and milling that I had no idea what I was looking at. The parts list and repair manual should help a lot. The part numbers for the 404 (7 T) rim sprocket is 0000 642 1206 or the number for the 404 kit is 1111 640 2025. The confusion came in because the wrong 3/8" rim was listed on Bailey's for 076. If you already have a rim sprocket on your saw all you'll need is the right 3/8" 8T sprocket if you want to convert to 3/8", Stihl seems to be the only one that makes it. Since my saw had a spur sprocket I also had to get a clutch drum and removal tool. Bailey's put the 3/8 nose on the bar I bought for free.
> Good luck with yours. It'll be nice to compare how they run, once your's is going.





phred45 I meant to thank you for doing all the leg work on the conversion. I never would have considered that saw if I hadn't read your thread. This saw came with a rim sprocket and the my bar has a helper handle so I can run 3/8 or 404. The other thing was I got it for just about nothing. Thanks

BobL thanks for the tips that exactly what I was thinking. I'll dig into it tomorrow and see a what I find.


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## phred45 (Aug 19, 2010)

Thanks but most of the advice came from the forum. Bobl and Mtngun especially have been tireless with suggestions and advice. I'm glad you got yours cheap. I wasn't so lucky, paid $600 for the powerhead shipping included. Still cheap for such a big saw if it runs well. 

I'm a city kid and don't know anything about farm life or big tools but I can learn My wife is a real hands on gal and got me to work on our cars, plumming etc. Our first tractor was a disaster, a real rip off, they certainly saw us comming. Got it mostly rebuild now and really need one twice the size.

Bobl, the compression on the saw was about 150 cold after sitting a long time. Haven't checked it since. What do you use to build up the pressure for the crankcase pressure test? Tried to find a thread on it but only found how to find the leaks.


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## mtngun (Aug 19, 2010)

phred45 said:


> What do you use to build up the pressure for the crankcase pressure test? Tried to find a thread on it but only found how to find the leaks.


For a vacuum test, use a hand operated vacuum pump which you can get at an auto parts store or at Harbor Freight. 

If you want to go a step further, you can also pressure test. There is no storebought device to do this, you would have to slap something together using either a regulator to drop compressed air down to a few psi, or else with something like a bicycle pump. You'd have to scrounge a gage that is accurate at low pressure, and an isolation valve or two.

The vacuum test tells you whether or not the saw has a leak, but doesn't pinpoint the leak. The pressure test makes it easy to find the leak.

Four Paws' vacuum testing thread


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## BobL (Aug 19, 2010)

Here's my pressure testing kit.






Here's a post describing the bits and pieces.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=1502928&postcount=3


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## phred45 (Aug 19, 2010)

Thanks for the ideas. It will have to wait for the weekend. However, the  from the other post does sound good. Heat index is supposed to be 110 here again today.


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## betterbuilt (Aug 19, 2010)

Just as BobL said the impulse line was cracked. Thanks BobL

That saw seems pretty well made. The rim needs to be replaced . I'll check to see if i can get one at the local saw shops. Now i need to buy that clutch tool or make one.


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## BobL (Aug 19, 2010)

betterbuilt said:


> Just as BobL said the impulse line was cracked. Thanks BobL


Cheers BB - Does that mean it runs better now? 
I'd still pressure test and tune it.



> That saw seems pretty well made. The rim needs to be replaced . I'll check to see if i can get one at the local saw shops. Now i need to buy that clutch tool or make one.



They are tough saws - I really like mine - If you know how to do it, it starts easily without using the decomp valve and just runs and runs and runs.

A new rim call for a new chain or preferably pair of chains. If you run old chain on a new rim both will be ruined well before time.


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## betterbuilt (Aug 19, 2010)

BobL said:


> Cheers BB - Does that mean it runs better now?
> I'd still pressure test and tune it.
> 
> 
> ...



I need to get some replacement hose before I can get it going. 

I'm still trying to wrap my head around the compression test. I gotta check out the tread you recommended and start to gather the parts. 

Well if I'm gonna change the rim I might as well get a 3/8 because thats what I'm running anyways. I'll get a 404 so I can use the bar it came with. 

I don't want to ask but i can't figure out what is the small lever on the muffler side right by the carb adjustment?


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## BobL (Aug 19, 2010)

betterbuilt said:


> I need to get some replacement hose before I can get it going.
> 
> I'm still trying to wrap my head around the compression test. I gotta check out the tread you recommended and start to gather the parts.
> 
> ...



Please ask - no worries. 

That lever is the oil flow adjustment. There really is only one useful setting on the 076 at that is full on Max. The max oil flow for an 076 is 19 mL/min which is too little for most milling over about 18" and why they really do need an auxiliary oiler/


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## betterbuilt (Aug 19, 2010)

BobL said:


> Please ask - no worries.
> 
> That lever is the oil flow adjustment. There really is only one useful setting on the 076 at that is full on Max. The max oil flow for an 076 is 19 mL/min which is too little for most milling over about 18" and why they really do need an auxiliary oiler/



I was typing a thank you and you answered before I could even post it. I found an old thread that you answered the exact same question. I plan on using an auxiliary oiler so it shouldn't be a problem. Who would have known they would put a lever instead of a little screw under the saw. Are we going forward or backwards with saw design?

Thanks for the info BobL.


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## BobL (Aug 19, 2010)

betterbuilt said:


> I was typing a thank you and you answered before I could even post it. I found an old thread that you answered the exact same question. I plan on using an auxiliary oiler so it shouldn't be a problem. Who would have known they would put a lever instead of a little screw under the saw. Are we going forward or backwards with saw design?
> 
> Thanks for the info BobL.



No worries. ,The reason they changed away from the lever to screw was apparently levers get knocked but I have never had any trouble with the lever on my 076.


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## betterbuilt (Aug 20, 2010)

Well my 076 lives. I changed both the fuel lines to the new type that are supposed to handle the ethanol. I put it back together and walked down to my wood pile. I cut up some firewood for a few minutes and I'm pretty impressed with the saw. 

My saw shop had the rims with the oil pump cutouts. I picked up a 3/8 and a 404. I didn't ask about that tool to take the clutch off, but i figure I'll make one. 

I'm gonna do the pressure test but didn't get all the parts together yet. 

Not a bad saw for $200US The guy i got it from actually had it in his kitchen. I know he took care of it. I wish I had a picture of that big saw next to 3 Husky 455 Ranchers. Did I mention he wasn't married.


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## texx (Aug 21, 2010)

thanks guys you just helped me without knowing it , i was just reading through this thread and thought i better go check mine . 
i am getting an 076 ready for milling and i have got all the bits to change it to 3/8 from a guy here in oz anyway went up to the shed and checked out the rim sprocket and it never had the little cut outs to slide over the oil pump drive , but it has now i fixed her with me trusty dremel and it can now slide unimpeded .also had to shorten the chains they were supplied to long for the 50 inch bar but all is good now . all i have left to do is rig up an aux oiler and i am ready to go .
i did have the clutch let go and exit through the side cover but i have that sorted now .


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## betterbuilt (Aug 29, 2010)

I know I've heard mention of a mythical angled gas filleradapter for the 076. I've tried google and ebay to no avail. Does anyone have any clues to where I might find one.


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## BobL (Aug 29, 2010)

betterbuilt said:


> I know I've heard mention of a mythical angled gas filleradapter for the 076. I've tried google and ebay to no avail. Does anyone have any clues to where I might find one.



The filler adapter were made specifically for the TS760 cut off saw. I have seen several on ebay over the last few years so they are still around. I would also ask businesses that deal with cutoff saws like
http://dhsequipment.homestead.com/HOME.html


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## betterbuilt (Aug 29, 2010)

BobL said:


> The filler adapter were made specifically for the TS760 cut off saw. I have seen several on ebay over the last few years so they are still around. I would also ask businesses that deal with cutoff saws like
> http://dhsequipment.homestead.com/HOME.html



Thanks for the info BobL. I sent them an email. I've been looking on ebay but haven't seen one. I was searching for the wrong saw. duh. I sent an email to Dhs. If they have anything I'll let you know.


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## chilipeppermaniac (Aug 31, 2018)

I will revive this old thread as I have purchased an 076 and 051 and will basically weigh any thought of swapping over to 3/8 from 404 based on the info presented here. The whole " does the new rim sprocket clear the oiler parts or if there are 2 different rim sprockets or whatever, sure leads to areas of confusion that must be accounted for to get the swap to 3/8 done so it functions properly.

As this thread is old, all semblance of pictures is gone. It would be nice to have the areas of concern displayed in pictures again.


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