# MS192T on small removals



## Newguy12358 (Nov 19, 2011)

I have about 6 removals, and some pruning to do. Tree diameters range from 6-10" would a 192t be adequate to accomplish this? All oaks BTW


----------



## ozzy42 (Nov 19, 2011)

Yes. Though it would not be the ultimum ,it should be adequate.

Be carefull when making the last cut [your flush cut] not to overheat the saw .
The problem with flush cutting with a top handled saw is the exhaust exits the right side ,which means you will basicly be stopping up the exhaust with the ground when it is turned on it's side.
Don't flush cut for more than 2 or 3 seconds at a time.Cut a little ,pull the saw out ,tip it to the normal position,bleep the throttle a few times to let the exhaust clear up ,then cut a little bit more.

I've seen a lot of good trim saws destroyed by being burned up flushing stumps.


----------



## Newguy12358 (Nov 19, 2011)

Thanks. Once I get on the ground Im gonna switch to my echo 330.


----------



## littlejoetqt (Nov 19, 2011)

Funny you should ask that question...I traded up a MS 192t yesterday. It badly needed a chain, I got a new one today and tried it on some firewood. I was very impressed at the cutting speed, especially considering the dimunitive size and weight of the saw. I have a ms660 for the ground-level cutting, so that's not an issue.

BTW, I have $33 bucks in the MS192T, I had to buy some parts for the other saw(free) to fix it. It was a Poulan Pro 42cc saw...hadn't been started in years and was missing bar/chain, and handlebar. I found a handlebar that would fit from another saw, and bought a new oregon bar/chain. Traded for a guy who needed a firewood saw...the top handle saw didn't seem like a real chainsaw to him, and he knew I could put it to better use.


----------



## Scrat (Nov 19, 2011)

Newguy12358 said:


> I have about 6 removals, and some pruning to do. Tree diameters range from 6-10" would a 192t be adequate to accomplish this? All oaks BTW



That saw is more than capable to do what you want. Question is, is that the saw you have or are you intending on buying one? If you have it go for it, or if you can wait and buy a 200-201, 338xpt than wait....once you use one you wont want to go back to a 192. I think there is an equation like Horse Power squared X Testosterone = big grin!
Scrat


----------



## Newguy12358 (Nov 19, 2011)

I can wait, Just not sure if I could justify $620 over $320 for a 200T. My only concern is safety while in the tree while pruning and topping. I don't want to worry about to slow of a back cut. I know most of the pros use the 200T and don't speak highly of the 192T. I talked to an old tree climber and the owner of the Stihl shop and he told me I didnt need the 200T for what I wanted to do. (even though he had a 200T and not a 192T in stock). Safety is my only concern here really.


----------



## oscar4883 (Nov 20, 2011)

Tree work has been done for years with saws a lot slower than a 192. Use good cutting technique, deep enough face-cuts, etc., and you will be just fine.


----------



## ozzy42 (Nov 20, 2011)

A sharp chain makes a world of difference too.


----------



## no tree to big (Nov 20, 2011)

the 192 is a more then capable saw our company wont buy 200's because they are cheap asses so we have no choice but to run them and yea they dont cut as fast as a 200 but they do get the job done. the guys have never had any issues with the saw cutting too slow if you need the saw to cut "fast" there is something else you should be doing different( deeper, wider, narrower notch, snap cut... ) to help eliminate the need to cut faster. for a few 6-10" trees the 192 is more then enough for those sized trees you could do it with a nice hand saw:msp_wink:


----------



## Iustinian (Nov 20, 2011)

Newguy12358 said:


> I can wait, Just not sure if I could justify $620 over $320 for a 200T. My only concern is safety while in the tree while pruning and topping. I don't want to worry about to slow of a back cut. I know most of the pros use the 200T and don't speak highly of the 192T. I talked to an old tree climber and the owner of the Stihl shop and he told me I didnt need the 200T for what I wanted to do. (even though he had a 200T and not a 192T in stock). Safety is my only concern here really.



get that 200t as soon as you can afford it, lest you never get one -- Stihl has recently replaced it with the 201, and so far, 200T users are disappointed. 

that having been said -- the 192 should be more than enough for the project you described. I have a 020T, 3 200T's, a 192T and a 192TC. (had Husky's climbing saw and its been sold lol) 200T is WORTH THE $600. 

If you do get the 192, get the smaller bar, remove the spark arrestor, drill the muffler hole a little wider & cut the baffles off the sidecover (I can post pics if you ask), and remove the limiting caps and you'll be much happier with it. 

Good luck with your project.


----------



## Newguy12358 (Nov 21, 2011)

Iustinian,
Thanks you just told me what I wanted to hear.:msp_w00t:, my wife just annoyed me too so what a beeter time to buy a 200T!:evilgrin: All kidding aside, I always did better having a little more than what I needed to do any job. I always regretted going with the cheaper of two choices no matter what the situation, (when it comes to tools and equip). That said I do think the 192 would serve me well if I choose to go with it, and I got alot of good advice from everyone on here. What to do... I'll know in about 4 hours.


----------



## Newguy12358 (Nov 21, 2011)

Well fellas I did it. I got a 200T, and they are getting scarce i can tell you. I don't think i'll regret it. I do feel a little guilty though, being a guy that will probably not use it to its potential.


----------



## ozzy42 (Nov 21, 2011)

That's awesome newguy.But the same thing still applies for cutting stumps.The 200t will have the exhaust pressed against the ground when cutting stumps the same as the 192.

Be a shame to ruin a great saw.


----------



## Iustinian (Nov 21, 2011)

Newguy12358 said:


> Well fellas I did it. I got a 200T, and they are getting scarce i can tell you. I don't think i'll regret it. I do feel a little guilty though, being a guy that will probably not use it to its potential.



Gratz on the purchase! you'll love that saw.

dont feel too bad, probably wont be too hard to sell it if you needed too. Used MS 361's sell for near new price, I think bc they replaced it with 362. 

If ya ever get around this way, you're welcome to test cut the muffler modded 192, 260Pro, 210, 170, 361, several ported/modded 460's, 660, or 088


----------



## Newguy12358 (Nov 22, 2011)

Good advise Oz thanks. 
My saw came with a 16" bar on it but I had it switched to a 14. Limbing, Topping, and Chunking is what I plan on doing. I have enough clear room to drop with my buddies farm boss once I get down the trunk past where I would need more than a 14" bar.


----------



## Rudedog (Nov 22, 2011)

Iustinian said:


> If you do get the 192, get the smaller bar, remove the spark arrestor, drill the muffler hole a little wider & cut the baffles off the sidecover (I can post pics if you ask), and remove the limiting caps and you'll be much happier with it.



Please do.


----------



## SoiLLclimber (Nov 22, 2011)

I second Rudedog. I would like to see pics of the mods you described.


----------



## Iustinian (Nov 23, 2011)

*takes about 5 minutes, and REALLY helps wake this little saw up*



SoiLLclimber said:


> I second Rudedog. I would like to see pics of the mods you described.














close-up - the hole you see was drilled slightly larger, take the side cover off and cut that portion of the baffle off






this spark arrestor/screen -- when you take the side cover off, you will see the top peice, easily removed with a screwdriver. The screen can become plugged with unburned hydrocarbons and the saw will run very poorly. This is common if you run the saw too rich or use crappy 2 cycle oil. I can tell you from experience, Stihl, Amsoil, and Royal Purple are worth using; I've seen side-by-side the difference in cylinders in saws run on cheap stuff and the good stuff. 

Anyway, hope you enjoy the pics.


----------



## SoiLLclimber (Nov 23, 2011)

Appreciate you taking the time to put those up. Definitely going to be adding that to my to do list in the shop this weekend. Seems like a straight forward mod that will leave me happy with the results. Thanks again Iustinian.


----------



## Iustinian (Nov 23, 2011)

SoiLLclimber said:


> Appreciate you taking the time to put those up. Definitely going to be adding that to my to do list in the shop this weekend. Seems like a straight forward mod that will leave me happy with the results. Thanks again Iustinian.



no problem, I'm getting ready to start some porting on a 361 soon, and a 441CM when I get time to map it. That little mod on your 192 takes about five minutes and pretty easy.


----------



## ozzy42 (Nov 25, 2011)

Iustinian said:


> close-up - the hole you see was drilled slightly larger, take the side cover off and cut that portion of the baffle off
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Anybody else notice ,when you scroll down thru the set of pics, the middle one with the side cover seems like it moves laft to right?


----------



## 2treeornot2tree (Nov 25, 2011)

I don't see why you would want to cut the slots in front exhaust port on your side cover. It leaves a good chance for you to burn yourself or your rope with very little noticable difference in the way the saw runs. I have not mod my saws at all and they run great. I have seen people tinkerwith stuff they shouldn't have and then there saws don't run worth crap. Keep good fuel in it and a clean air filter and a sharp chain on it and it will preform wonderfully.


----------



## Iustinian (Nov 26, 2011)

2treeornot2tree said:


> I don't see why you would want to cut the slots in front exhaust port on your side cover. It leaves a good chance for you to burn yourself or your rope with very little noticable difference in the way the saw runs. I have not mod my saws at all and they run great. I have seen people tinkerwith stuff they shouldn't have and then there saws don't run worth crap. Keep good fuel in it and a clean air filter and a sharp chain on it and it will preform wonderfully.



Actually its just the opposite: cutting the baffle out keeps it from burning the plastic as much. Less mess, and less hot plastic to burn me. Also keeps it looking a little cleaner if I decide to sell it later. 

The muffler actually sits 7/16" behind the baffle, and the whole we cut is 1" x 1". You won't get burned unless you stick your finger or something else 1" in there lol. You would have to deliberately put something in there, and its only going in 7/16" so maybe if you deliberately put the end of your rope in there you might burn the end idk. I've never been burned by it, nor had it burn anything, and I've had it that way since they came out with the 192. 

And I completely disagree, along with removing the limiting caps, it was a VERY noticeable difference. Just did one on my buddy's brand new 192, after he'd run it for a week, and he says the same thing - really wakes that little saw up. 

I dont disagree with your advice though, use good fuel, quality mix, clean filter and sharp chain and you should be ok, and you shouldn't mess with them unless you know what you're doing or can afford to fix it if you screw it up. 

For the average guy tho, eventually that screen will plug up -- it can be cleaned, yes, but these mods are very simple, and took like 5 minutes and the guys here in town rave about it. 

Also, the mod on that particular saw was done by a stihl mechanic, the one who showed me that in the first place.


----------



## 2treeornot2tree (Nov 27, 2011)

To each his own. I have run my without the spark screen, and didnt really notice a difference. I also am very picky about maintanence on my saws though too. I often clean the screen, and air filter.


----------



## Iustinian (Nov 27, 2011)

2treeornot2tree said:


> To each his own. I have run my without the spark screen, and didnt really notice a difference. I also am very picky about maintanence on my saws though too. I often clean the screen, and air filter.



I'm very picky about maintenance on mine as well -- it only takes a little bit of effort to keep them nice. I've always had my own saws, and no one else gets to cut with them. Ground guys have their own saws. There's a reason why mine are always running harder and cutting faster. 

Same goes with my rope. I still have my blue streak (which is used for light duty rigging now) and it still looks really clean. I subbed for this guy earlier this spring (he has a weekend tree business) and their 6 month old rigging line looks way older than my blue streak. But I also wash my ropes two or three times a year too -- keeps the sand and dirt out of them, and they last much longer. I hang dry them, and only wash one at a time so they have plenty of time to dry before the next use.


----------



## climberjones (Dec 9, 2011)

Iustinian said:


> get that 200t as soon as you can afford it, lest you never get one -- Stihl has recently replaced it with the 201, and so far, 200T users are disappointed.
> 
> that having been said -- the 192 should be more than enough for the project you described. I have a 020T, 3 200T's, a 192T and a 192TC. (had Husky's climbing saw and its been sold lol) 200T is WORTH THE $600.
> 
> ...


Im asking post pics please ive got a 192 as well and its a bit lacking (THANKS)


----------



## Iustinian (Dec 10, 2011)

*scrolllllllll up.*



climberjones said:


> Im asking post pics please ive got a 192 as well and its a bit lacking (THANKS)



Pics are above, scroll up.


----------



## TreEmergencyB (Dec 10, 2011)

My boss buys 192s for the guys to run. They use them on everything....even crane jobs yes i said a 192 on a crane job....they wonder why i brought my personal 200t to work, then they really wonder why it doesnt leave the truck when im the climber on a crane job.....give me the 36 brah

Edit: as for the the question, keep em sharp and they do the job


----------



## climberjones (Dec 10, 2011)

iustinian said:


> pics are above, scroll up.



thanks forthe info!


----------



## rbtree (Dec 26, 2011)

2treeornot2tree said:


> I don't see why you would want to cut the slots in front exhaust port on your side cover. It leaves a good chance for you to burn yourself or your rope with very little noticable difference in the way the saw runs.



A stock 192T is gutless. Just porting the muffler made two of mine cut about 20% faster. That is substantial. Bit I open up the deflector then replace it so that the exhaust is still deflected downwards somewhat. I also have a woods ported 192T that is close to a 200T in cutting speed,as long as it's in wood under 7-9". Great pruning saws!

Most of my saws have been woodsmodded. It's nice to be able to run a saw that is 35-60% faster than stock!...And they last as well!


----------



## DanW63 (Dec 30, 2011)

Scrat said:


> That saw is more than capable to do what you want. Question is, is that the saw you have or are you intending on buying one? If you have it go for it, or if you can wait and buy a 200-201, 338xpt than wait....once you use one you wont want to go back to a 192. I think there is an equation like Horse Power squared X Testosterone = big grin!
> Scrat



I think the formula goes like this:
(HP^2) x testosterone x RPM = big grin that if you have to ask you wouldn't understand

The MS 200T revs about 3 grand higher than the 192. I think that comes out to about $0.10/rpm for the upgrade. (That is a lot easier to tell your wife than saying "it costs twice as much". Sometimes it sure is convenient not having one of those.)


----------

