# What is your best (seriously) redneck firewood dryer/kiln idea?



## wdchuck (Feb 16, 2010)

I'm looking for ideas about drying small amounts of split firewood for that particular individual. 

Right now, I've a 1/3 cord of two year split wood, on a pallet, under a tarp with salamander heater to suck out the atmoshperic moisture. This oak/maple/cherry/ash is already grey from the sun, and shows great endchecking, but 1 out of 100 want the wood to be perfect. 

I used some 4x8 sheets of old plywood to create the funnel, and the tarp to contain the heat, and plenty of open air at the bottom to allow a 100* or better ambient temperature. I'll let this sit for about two hours before I tear it all down and deliver it. This wood was split in Mar 2008.

What kind of simple ideas do you guys have to dry out a load of wood in a short amount of time? 

I've already measured out an area for a hoop house, to hold 40 cords in 1/3cord stacked pallets for the summer/fall to sell in 2010/11. Once I"m ahead by 100 cord or more, then good ole' sunshine and time will do the work. 


Thanks in advance for the practical ideas.


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## Metals406 (Feb 16, 2010)

wdchuck said:


> I'm looking for ideas about drying small amounts of split firewood for that particular individual.
> 
> Right now, I've a 1/3 cord of two year split wood, on a pallet, under a tarp with salamander heater to suck out the atmoshperic moisture. This oak/maple/cherry/ash is already grey from the sun, and shows great endchecking, but 1 out of 100 want the wood to be perfect.
> 
> ...



There's a commercial firewood guy (In I believe Maine) that built kilns out of shipping containers. The heat source is a stove outside of the container (fired by wood), the heat is directed into the container. 

The wood he splits is put in big baskets he made out of angle iron (for the frame) and either Hog-Fence Panels or expanded metal for the 4 sides and bottom, I can't remember which?

He said he was drying green hardwoods in 3 days, and even though a cord was over $300, his customers were requesting his kiln dried over his stack cured.

I believe one kiln could be setup for around 3k-4k if you did all the work. That should get you all the materials anyway.


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## Curlycherry1 (Feb 16, 2010)

I wonder how well a vacuum oven would work? I used one in the lab to test kiln dried lumber for woodworking and at about the boiling point of water (100*C) the wood had zero moisture after 24 hours of vacuum and heat. It shot back to ~5% moisture in about 24 hours.

An old steam sterilizer for hospital equipment would have the volume to hold about a cord and it has heat capabilities. With a surplus vacuum pump you could have popcorn fert dry wood in 24 hours.


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## Metals406 (Feb 16, 2010)

Not sure if this is the same guy I referenced earlier??

http://www.mountainfirewoodkilns.com/firewood_kiln.php

*Pricing:* http://www.mountainfirewoodkilns.com/trailer_pricelist.php


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## Metals406 (Feb 16, 2010)

*More:*

http://www.kiln-direct.com/content/miniquickfirewoodkiln/index.html


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## wdchuck (Feb 16, 2010)

I like the ideas. 

Todays version will cost me about $ 3.00 out of pocket. 


Unless the tarp starts on fire, then it'll cost me quite a bit more, put near $400. 


So far, the ends receiving the initial hot air are checking open 1/8" and then some. Not bad so far. 


3hrs at 140* wood temp qualifies for kiln dried. 

The most local professional outfit gets $178 for a 1/3 cord, kiln dried. 

I might just have a market niche.


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## Dalmatian90 (Feb 16, 2010)

I think that's 3 hours @ 140º ... measured in the center of the logs. Not just getting the kiln up to 140º for three hours. I don't know what they figure it takes to achieve heating the wood that hot though.


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## wdchuck (Feb 16, 2010)

Dalmatian90 said:


> I think that's 3 hours @ 140º ... measured in the center of the logs. Not just getting the kiln up to 140º for three hours. I don't know what they figure it takes to achieve heating the wood that hot though.



I'm not trying to get it to kiln temps. just mentioning it, that's all.


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## tnxm (Feb 16, 2010)

Chuck id love to see a pic of your little setup your using.


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## leon (Feb 16, 2010)

*fire wood kiln*



wdchuck said:


> I'm looking for ideas about drying small amounts of split firewood for that particular individual.
> 
> Right now, I've a 1/3 cord of two year split wood, on a pallet, under a tarp with salamander heater to suck out the atmoshperic moisture. This oak/maple/cherry/ash is already grey from the sun, and shows great endchecking, but 1 out of 100 want the wood to be perfect.
> 
> ...









I will tell you what a manufacturer of lumber kilns told me-


"Dont waste your time or money as a simple forced air furnace will accomplish the same thing as firewood is low value product".
Turning the thermostat up on a forced air furnace accomplishes the same thing. And if the wood is not bagged bugs will get into it eventually and also absorb moisture.

Employing a small insulated 20 foot shipping container that was used for frozen or refridgerated goods will work as the front will have the hole 
left from the refridgeration unit for the heat ducting and the bottom can be cut open for the return duct. 


For the amount of work involved it would be simpler to burn sulphur in a burn pot to kill all the bugs and bacteria and have a lot less work. 


The other problem is uniformity in drying....... they can claim all they want but......................


wood that is sheared as is done with the "Chomper" can dry quickly as the shear crushes the wood fibers and lignin and drives the moisture out at the same time by creating a wicking effect from the crushing injury to the firewood block as it is split and pushed forward. 


Unless the wood is split very small it means nothing as the wood may have mouisture in it anyway and because less surface area is exposed to heat and wood holds a lot of heat prior to its begining to burn up. 


Then the problem of having mild weather occurs for everyone with less wood sales. 

Disclaimer: I do not have any financial interest in Rainier Hydraulics, Mountain Firewood Kilns or Kiln Direct.


You would be money ahead by simply buying a lot of solid ADS drainage tubing 2 rolls of it if you have the room and a few connectors and creating a huge heat sink with it by exposing it to the sunlight and using a fan like the type used to dry rugs and floors to piush the hot air through it to the bottom of the pile you want to dry.

A used clean round or oval fuel oil tank could be stood up and you could simply throw the wood in it to be heated by the air exiting the tubing and no heat would be lost as it is entering the tank from the bottom with the solid sides intact- for that matter you could simply attach the tank to a stand and create a swivel of sorts to tip the tank over and dump it when you think the wood is dry enough and the black color will absorb a lot of heat.


building a heat box is another way with or without the tubing to preheat the air entering the heat box.



materials 


2 sheets of good exterior plywood

black paint 

1" sheet rock screws 
2" sheet rock screws 
16 2 by 4 by 8 foot kiln dried framing lumber 

2 4 by 8 sheets of eighth inch plexiglass predriiled with counter sunk holes for the screws every 6 inches around the perimiter of the box 

hole saw for 4 inch holes 



Paint all the lumber with at least 2 coats of flat black paint and let dry. 

assemble the boxes with the 2 by 4's crossing the plywood-you will see why shortly






The Kiln baskets and the space under the kiln baskets is a compromise where the air being blown around cannot reach everywhere and the continued exposure of wood basket to the heat is what accomplishes the job. 

The problem of bugs/termites getting back in the wood is always there anyway.


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## KsWoodsMan (Feb 16, 2010)

For a vacuum pump, a vacuum line from an idling vehicle would pull 15 - 20 inches of mercury.

That would be a lot of force on the sides of a 40 ft. shipping container. If the sides were corrugated vertically it might not get crushed from atmospheric pressure. A few strategically placed poles or load lock's might be enough to keep it from crushing itself.

That would be a lot of container to try to get airtight at 12 PSI of negative pressure. It would hold a large amount of wood though.


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## wdchuck (Feb 16, 2010)

tnxm said:


> Chuck id love to see a pic of your little setup your using.



Throw a tarp over yer car, then put the salamander heater about 2' from one end, and a sawhorse over the heater to keep the tarp well clear. That about sums it up.


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## Curlycherry1 (Feb 16, 2010)

KsWoodsMan said:


> For a vacuum pump, a vacuum line from an idling vehicle would pull 15 - 20 inches of mercury.
> 
> That would be a lot of force on the sides of a 40 ft. shipping container. If the sides were corrugated vertically it might not get crushed from atmospheric pressure. A few strategically placed poles or load lock's might be enough to keep it from crushing itself.
> 
> That would be a lot of container to try to get airtight at 12 PSI of negative pressure. It would hold a large amount of wood though.



Any vacuum at all would speed up the removal of water from the wood because it lowers the boiling point of the water. So even if one cannot get a full vacuum even a partial would help. Good vacuum pumps are not cheap either.


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## Steve NW WI (Feb 16, 2010)

Thinking farmer grade redneck ingenuity, I'd be looking for a junked small grain dryer out in a farmer's weedline. Chances are good that there's a good burner and possibly fan on it, but all the augers and sheet metal are shot. I did a C/L search over most all of MN and WI, nothing but working ones showed, and you don't want to know what the cost is on a runner...

Plumb that burner to a reefer van trailer and you've got a setup, although one that takes propane - probably cheaper than the kero/diesel you're using now though.

If you want an aluminum topper off a full size 8' bed, bring a way to get it home to the GTG and it's yours. I probably have 2 up on the hill, but can't remember if the other one is alum or fiberglass.

Edit: reading the vacuum ideas, keep looking at farms that used to have dairy cows. Milking machines run off vacuum, and varying sizes of vac pumps might be sitting unused and unwanted in milkhouses around the state.


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## Curlycherry1 (Feb 16, 2010)

leon said:


> wood that is sheared as is done with the "Chomper" can dry quickly as the shear crushes the wood fibers and lignin and drives the moisture out at the same time by creating a wicking effect from the crushing injury to the firewood block as it is split and pushed forward.
> .



I doubt this can be true. Water still has to migrate from the center of the wood to the outside and whether the ends of the cells are crushed, cut or sheared, they are still a small part of the distance the water has to go to get out.


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## wdchuck (Feb 16, 2010)

Wood temp was between 104 and 110 degrees F. 

Order was cancelled, so the wood will be equalized with outdoor humidity by this time tomorrow. 

Someone in the near future will be getting some great wood.


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## wdchuck (Feb 16, 2010)

The ideas are intriguing and will require some reading/learning on my part to keep up with you guys.


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## Curlycherry1 (Feb 16, 2010)

wdchuck said:


> Wood temp was between 104 and 110 degrees F.
> 
> Order was cancelled, so the wood will be equalized with outdoor humidity by this time tomorrow.
> .



I did the experiment in my lab several years ago where I took several different species of wood and dried the snot out of them in a vacuum oven. They were in the oven at a temp higher than the boiling point of water and after 24 hours they reached a stable weight which meant they had zero water left in the wood. This was confirmed by weighing them every day for a week and observing that the weight never changed.

I then took them out and left them on the lab bench and within 24 hours they all gained back just about 5% moisture. Over the next several days they crept up in moisture % by gaining 0.5 to ~1% per day until they got to between 9 and 11% moisture depending on the species. Over the next year they were weighed weekly and they fluctuated up and down a few % depending on the time of year/humidity level in the lab.

I lost the data when my hard drive crashed one time but I do need to try to do the experiment over and regenerate a new set of data. It goes to show wood reaches an equilibrium point in moisture very quickly.

I am noodling on a way to show that the Chomper drying claim is BS. I think I have a way to test it. I don't have access to a chomper to sheer the ends of a stick of wood, but I do have a molding sheer that should work equally well. Stay tuned.


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## leon (Feb 16, 2010)

*chomper fire wood processor*



Curlycherry1 said:


> I doubt this can be true. Water still has to migrate from the center of the wood to the outside and whether the ends of the cells are crushed, cut or sheared, they are still a small part of the distance the water has to go to get out.



it is true and the studies done independently of the processor method of splitting and shearing at the same time are what creates the wicking effect as the water is physically compressed and driven from the splitting and shearing point.

leon


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## Steve NW WI (Feb 16, 2010)

Curlycherry1 said:


> I am noodling on a way to show that the Chomper drying claim is BS. I think I have a way to test it. I don't have access to a chomper to sheer the ends of a stick of wood, but I do have a molding sheer that should work equally well. Stay tuned.



Stop up some weekend. My splitter's plenty big enough to imitate the chomper for you. Bring some samples if you're particular, otherwise I've got green or close to it oak, maple, birch, cherry, and box elder.


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## Metals406 (Feb 17, 2010)

Curlycherry1 said:


> I did the experiment in my lab several years ago where I took several different species of wood and dried the snot out of them in a vacuum oven. They were in the oven at a temp higher than the boiling point of water and after 24 hours they reached a stable weight which meant they had zero water left in the wood. This was confirmed by weighing them every day for a week and observing that the weight never changed.
> 
> I then took them out and left them on the lab bench and within 24 hours they all gained back just about 5% moisture. Over the next several days they crept up in moisture % by gaining 0.5 to ~1% per day until they got to between 9 and 11% moisture depending on the species. Over the next year they were weighed weekly and they fluctuated up and down a few % depending on the time of year/humidity level in the lab.
> 
> ...



My old man is 71, and has been a Carpenter longer than I've been alive. He always taught my brother and I that wood (as a general rule) is cured at 10%-11% moisture content. So he told us bringing wood below those levels would be wasted energy -- and stopping at 10% was sufficient.

He told us that the number would fluctuate with humidity levels, but that the wood would always find it's equilibrium around that percentage. Your testing just confirms what my old man has said for years.


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## leon (Feb 17, 2010)

*firewood*

I am noodling on a way to show that the Chomper drying claim is BS. I think I have a way to test it. I don't have access to a chomper to sheer the ends of a stick of wood, but I do have a molding sheer that should work equally well. Stay tuned.[/QUOTE]

The reason the wicking of the water in the wood being processed is simple

The sized wood chunk is being crushed and sheared and the same thing is happening on the next shear and split where eachh end of each piece of fire wood has been sheared and split on both ends-

except for the very first piece and the very last piece of split firewood on 

that log as both ends are crushed the water is driven out from the crushing action on both sides of almost every piece of split wood that goes through the Chomper.


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## Hddnis (Feb 17, 2010)

I think what may be happening is that wood going through the Chomper is being split and fractured far more than just regular splitting usually does. At some point there would be a dimishing return.



Mr. HE


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## Bakuma (Nov 2, 2011)

Great thread and great info.

This claim that crushing or shearing helps remove water is nonsense IMO. The pores of the wood should be cut as cleanly as possible so that they remain open rather than having their walls crushed shut. Just visualize a bundle of straws: what is going to allow fluid to flow out of them, crushing them flat or cutting them cleanly?

As for the crushing action, all that does is force the moisture away from the ends of the wood toward the center. Exactly where you don't want it!


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## sawinredneck (Nov 2, 2011)

Remember you asked for redneck ideas!
Back in '95 we got hammered with an ice storm, nobody had wood, nobody had power and everybody wanted wood! It was a mess! The wife made me go buy a generator for our house.
We would go out and clean up storm damage in the daylight, then cut and split the wood we brought home.
We found freeze drying was rather effective! Split the wood, let it freeze overnight, then move it into the heated garage. The next night we'd put it back outside to freeze and back in the garage again.
Two times of this made the wood burnable at least as the freezing wicked the moisture out of it.
We made sure we told people what they were getting, but in times like that, with no power for weeks and sub zero temps, people were happy to have anything to keep warm!


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## mayhem100 (Nov 2, 2011)

Put up a greenhouse to build some heat and an powered exhaust fan to pull the humid air out. If its this time of year, this is a good place for the Salamander to step up and help keep the heat level high. Advangae to this is even a small greenhouse will hold an awful lot of wood.

I don't have a moisture meter (I really ought to get one) but when I invariably get behind in my processing and stacking I'll setup a plain old 16" house fan at one end of my pile, put it on low and leav it running for a week or so. The wood (and we're talking oak, beech, maple, white and yellow birch) goes from unburnable to very burnable in that time. Its not kiln dry quality, I'm sure there's still plenty of moisture inside there, but wicking the moisture out of the outside half inch or so makes a heck of a difference. 

I like the vacuum idea, but it sounds expensive. 

I think in order to effectively dry wood though, you have to have sustained heat and sustained moving air across the fibers to wick the moisture out as it reaches the surface.


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## Iska3 (Nov 2, 2011)

What type of wood are we talking about? I was told that red oak has a straw like fiber so it will dry and burn faster than white oak. A person can suck the moisture faster from a red oak but it will also draw more in over time. White oak has a tighter grain and much harder to dry. 

Not sure if this is true. We were told this on a field day that had to do with growing trees for wildlife..


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## 7sleeper (Nov 2, 2011)

I read sometime ago of someone using a simple large black garbage can. He hooked up a solar water heater and ran them through the garbage can. He described the results a very favoring! I donot know where I read it but that might fit the redneck terms. Solar water heaters or pool heaters are cheap nowadays so it shouldn't cost to much to set up. 

7


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## leon (Nov 2, 2011)

Hddnis said:


> I think what may be happening is that wood going through the Chomper is being split and fractured far more than just regular splitting usually does. At some point there would be a dimishing return.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





Bakuma said:


> Great thread and great info.
> 
> This claim that crushing or shearing helps remove water is nonsense IMO. The pores of the wood should be cut as cleanly as possible so that they remain open rather than having their walls crushed shut. Just visualize a bundle of straws: what is going to allow fluid to flow out of them, crushing them flat or cutting them cleanly?
> 
> As for the crushing action, all that does is force the moisture away from the ends of the wood toward the center. Exactly where you don't want it!







Your wrong again, yout forgetting the wood is sheared the first time when the log is pulled into the chamber as the wood is being rammed through the wedges. The wood is sheared again as the log is being pushed forward on the tray into the wedges-each piece is sheared once and the following shear
is for the piece following the one that was split; dont forget the wedges are tearing the round apart as it is being sheared as well reducing the energy needed to ram it through as half the diameter of round is split and the other half is spl;it as the shear finishes the round. 


the United States Department of Energy study proved the Chompers method works and works well, I posted the study here on the firewood wood section of the home page simply to illustrate that there is proof in what I have been saying. Why work harder if you are in the serious firewood business to reduce labor and the cost of sawing smaller logs for firewood, work smarter.


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## Deereman76 (Nov 3, 2011)

I Have been on the lookout for one of these:
BETTER-BILT 2100 Manure Spreaders For Sale At TractorHouse.com

We call these "Honey Wagons". they are used to remove liquid animal waste from storage pits. They have a large PTO driven vacuum pump that "sucks" the waste up into the tank. The entire rear is on hinges, so that is can be opened for cleaning purposes. You could stack a Decent quantity of firewood inside, close and seal the door, and crank up a Vacuum pump. I always wondered how well it would work.........

On another note, you could pull the thing down in the woods for loading!

Found some specs, 2100 Gallons, or 279 Cubic Feet, or 2.1816 cord! Of Course, it might be tough to stack that much in there.

That's redneck!


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## Mill_wannabe (Nov 3, 2011)

Really interesting topic! Can anyone explain what is required for wood to be called kiln-dried? In NH, you cannot bring in wood from another state unless it is kiln-dired. Is there a standard? How would someone using one of these methods be able to make the claim?


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## tomsteve (Nov 3, 2011)

lets see....redneck= different and cheap.... stack it in your house, kick up the furnace, put a fan in the window to pull out moist air. i bet a 12 by 12 room alone would hold a LOT of fire wood!:msp_w00t:


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## wdchuck (Nov 3, 2011)

Came across some clear, ribbed sheet goods today. That and some hoops will make for a stable, bright, hot, clean environment for the wood. Fans on each end of a 50' long run should keep up with moisture removal. 


Kiln dried to meet WI USDA is 170F sustained for 3hours. A probe stuck into a central piece of wood with a remote read for the inspector seems to be acceptable. 
The wood can still be too high of moisture content after that.


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## woodman6666 (Nov 3, 2011)

Deereman76 said:


> I Have been on the lookout for one of these:
> BETTER-BILT 2100 Manure Spreaders For Sale At TractorHouse.com
> 
> We call these "Honey Wagons". they are used to remove liquid animal waste from storage pits. They have a large PTO driven vacuum pump that "sucks" the waste up into the tank. The entire rear is on hinges, so that is can be opened for cleaning purposes. You could stack a Decent quantity of firewood inside, close and seal the door, and crank up a Vacuum pump. I always wondered how well it would work.........
> ...


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## Dalmatian90 (Nov 3, 2011)

> Really interesting topic! Can anyone explain what is required for wood to be called kiln-dried?



http://agriculture.nh.gov/divisions/plant_industry/documents/exterior-firewood-quarantine.pdf

http://www.aphis.usda.gov/plant_health/plant_pest_info/emerald_ash_b/downloads/firewoodfed.pdf



> Heat treatment procedures may employ steam, hot water, kilns, or any other method that raises the temperature of
> the center of the wood to at least 160°F (71.1°C) and maintains the center temperature for at least 75 minutes



I've seen other standards that used 140º for longer periods (I'm thinking now that may be for certain grades of lumber?), but the above is what NH & NY consider kiln dried currently.


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## Deereman76 (Nov 3, 2011)

woodman6666 said:


> Deereman76 said:
> 
> 
> > I Have been on the lookout for one of these:
> ...


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## Dalmatian90 (Nov 3, 2011)

> The wood can still be too high of moisture content after that.



Ayup -- the USDA and other state "kiln dried" firewood rules are aimed at killing critters in the wood, not at the suitability as firewood.

I'm making an educated guess that for the folks pondering vacuum pumps, if you're looking to meet kiln dried criteria for shipping firewood you'd want to achieve the 160º x 75 minutes or whatever standard you need to meet first. THEN apply the vacuum to dry it faster.

Water is a good conductor and will bring the heat into the center of the wood. Dry wood is a pretty good insulator and will take longer.

The "educated guess" comes in because it the green wood will absorb more BTUs to get to 160º. But I'm thinking it would take more energy to get dry wood to 160º in the center since the heat wouldn't travel as well to the middle.


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## leon (Nov 3, 2011)

*honey wagon*



About your honey wagon(slurp, slurp, YUMMMMMM!!!!!), 
and the presssure gradient created by said honey wagon;


The use of a pressure gradient to remove moisture from
salt or lumber or cereals requires a higher temperature 
heat source which quickly removes/drives out the moisture
due to the man made pressure gradient created by the 
regenerative or rotary lobe blower on the honey wagon
as that is the only way it can be done efficiently but at 
a higher cost.

If you were to install pex tubing on the exterior of the 
Honey Wagon and covered the honey wagon with roll 
insulation and held the roll insulation in place with 
chicken wire would work nicely but the problem 
would be determining the proper temperature and 
holding time.

You would have to weld/secure an I beam in the roof of the 
honey wagon and roll baskets of thrown or stacked firewood 
in the trolley baskets to dry it and hope it does not affect the
structural strength of the used honey wagon as a hole in the 
tank will no longer permit a pressure gradient to occur to aid 
in drying the firewood. 


Please look up Vacuum Kilns to understand what I have 
been discussing here in detail.


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## zogger (Nov 3, 2011)

*Box truck*

Have already seasoned wood. Stack in box truck prior to delivery. (metal box, real separated from the cab for obvious reasons) Exhaust from engine is routed directly into the rear box, plus add auxiliary heat from the radiator/engine water jacket, heck, run two more radiators in there, crank that baby UP. Double plus heat, plus forced hot exhaust as the final cure for the wood, so it gets delivered piping hot dry right to the customer. It'll still be hot when you get there! Obviously need a place for the exhaust to vent, some stacks at the back, they only need to stick up a few inches, make a nice row across there, or just some sliding vents or something. I bet it would get like 300 degrees in there or something like that fast, just few miles down the road. And I'd open the door and let it air out a bit before unloading


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## MNGuns (Nov 3, 2011)

I have done a good bit of reading lately in regards to kiln drying and USDA sterilization requirements. My conclusion is that the time and money involved to season firewood with a kiln would be better spent purchasing more product to increase your inventory to a point that you have enough in reserve to allow for natural seasoning.

As for sterilization, unless you are in a quarantined area it is not yet required, but I see it coming down the pipe if you want to move wood out of your local area. Problem being, after you sterilize the product, unless you seal it, it is once again possibly exposed to harmful insects and such. The likely hood of infestation is reduced as the wood is perhaps a bit dryer, but it is still a possibility. I consider it to be a token effort at best.


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## blades (Nov 4, 2011)

1 salamander, 1 shed of some type. Input hole for output of salamander, exhaust hole on otherside of shed towards top. load wood in shed close door fire up salamander, wait for steam to stop rising out of shed, good to go. Notes: best to back salamander off a ways and pipe heat output in ( one heck of a bonfire otherwise), if shed is fairly air tight and insulated it also works better. time is going to depend on sizing but unless very small overall this is not going to be a 4 hour affair, more like a couple weeks for any real size/quanity. That's a lot of fuel in a salamander or anything else similar. If you use a wood burner and stoke it with uglys at least you would cut the fuel cost.


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## Mill_wannabe (Nov 4, 2011)

Dalmatian90 said:


> http://agriculture.nh.gov/divisions/plant_industry/documents/exterior-firewood-quarantine.pdf
> 
> http://www.aphis.usda.gov/plant_health/plant_pest_info/emerald_ash_b/downloads/firewoodfed.pdf
> 
> ...



Thanks!!


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