# First time working with rough sawn - board and batten question



## cnice_37 (Aug 30, 2012)

Hi guys, not a miller, just a firewood-er.

I am building a shed that is planned to have b&b siding, local milled rough sawn pine.

12" boards and 3" battens.

The shed is framed with the nailers (furring) in place. Might look goofy now, as on the left side there will be a lean-to. Gratuitous shed shot:






Now that I'm thinking more details, I can't understand how to trim the corners. My concern is that if I run the board to the edge, and trim corner battens, that will lead to splitting (nailing the boards on edge.) All I can think of is to rip a 1" "board" for each corner (so 8 total) and nail in place. Then have the other board run to it with the standard 1/2" gap. This will give the batten a place to nail and sit on both ends. Am I overthinking this?

Any advice on what kind of nails to use? My current plan is to use 2.5" ring shanks for the boards and 3.5" for the battens. I only have a framing nailer.... is that overkill?

Thanks, I'm definitely a newbie to this stuff.


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## Yooperforeman (Aug 31, 2012)

I think I understand your question.Here's how I did my shed.I used 1"x4" to trim the corners,then batten strips on the rest of the joints. I used galvanized 6 penny nails to nail the corners(into the edge of the board).

Yes,A framing nailer is overkill for batten strips,best to do those by hand.


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## stihl023/5 (Aug 31, 2012)

Overhang opposite the board joint and butt flush. Nailer is over kill however if used dont use near edges and low press, go back and finish them with a hammer. I ran 1 side of all boards through a planer all the same thickness plus smooth back seats well. :cool2:


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## cnice_37 (Aug 31, 2012)

Thanks for the replies.

Sidewall I will use a 1.25" rip that sits flush to the wall corner. This is to prevent bowing of the corner trim piece. That will make the other side of this board 10.75" wide to keep with the 12" board look and allow for 0.5" nailing gap.

Front wall will have a full length board, spaced 0.5" from wall corner. This provides my nailing gap for the trim.

Side wall will have 3" trim run flush to the front wall's "board."

Front wall I will have 4" trim corner piece. This will run flush to the sidewall trim.

I will have to see what it looks like to determine if I need more than the center nailing pattern in the trim.

OK, obligatory bad paint sketch.


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## nyhof (Aug 31, 2012)

*nice shed*

no..ur not overthinking the corners....that way,,none of your battens are nailed to the boards.. u went to the trouble to do the rest of the battens that way...good job...(nailers)..if u need to nail a batten to a board...just nail one side...i think u already know ...it will shrink no matter how dry the lumber is....expand when it gets wet...if u have the time & money...coat all sides of the boards & more importantly the battens..the new water base stains are good..the solid colors are made so that u can still see wood grain...the only thing that i can see room for improvement is....run that ridge board another 5' out on the front...give yourself a nice overhang so that u can sit there dry & shaded with a few pints & admire the fine job u did.....


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## GeeVee (Aug 31, 2012)

+1 on the extra roof. Even if you have to go out and put a couple of posts in concrete, extend the roof long enough to keep blowing wind and rain/snow from hitting the fact of the door, water will run in to the floor if you don't.


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## TNMIKE (Sep 3, 2012)

I just resided a building on my farm with green roughcut sawmill oak. I screwed the battens on using decking screws. It will allow you to tighten them up as the wood dries.


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