# Stihl 076 & Logosol Timberjig



## chrislemiller (Nov 18, 2008)

I recently purchased a Stihl 076 at a public auction with zero knowledge of its history.I have spent many hours reading about the saw & Milling Attachments here on this site and the woodwork forums and see the 076 is used for milling a fair bit.I cant however find anyone who has fitted a Timberjig to the 076. Any thoughts? 
The Timberjig bolts to the saw via the chain securing M10 bolts. My saw has a quickstop chain brake (This was not fitted to the 076 when it was introduced in the 1980s) so my 076 must be one of the last made early 90s. I`m wondering if the chain brake gets in the way of the Timberjig because it extends a good 3 inches away from the body.Any thoughts?
The 076 started 3rd pull using 50 to 1 fuel oil ratio.I know 40 to 1 was recommended when it was sold but who knows.Bit of extra oil might replace the lack of lead in the unleaded fuel. Awesome cross cutting power. Chugging along like an old British MotorBike. Not the high pitch whine like my MS250! 
The push pin type chain oiler is boring. Does anyone know how to disable it and make it full flowing all the time.(Apparently this was an option when the saw was made but I dont have a manual to see)


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## BobL (Nov 18, 2008)

chrislemiller said:


> I recently purchased a Stihl 076 at a public auction with zero knowledge of its history.I have spent many hours reading about the saw & Milling Attachments here on this site and Australias woodwork forums and see the 076 is used for milling a fair bit.I cant however find anyone who has fitted a Timberjig to the 076. Any thoughts?


IMHO the timberjig is really designed for a lightweighter weight saw - they show it with an 044. The 076 is a heavy beast and better suited to an alaskan or similar type mill. I can even imagine the 076 possibly bending the frame of the timberjig meaning you won't get square timber!



> The Timberjig bolts to the saw via the chain securing M10 bolts. My saw has a quickstop chain brake (This was not fitted to the 076 when it was introduced in the 1980s) so my 076 must be one of the last made early 90s.


On the timberjig you can leave the clutch cover and chain brake on, and buy some long nuts to replace the existing nuts. It would not surprise me if they supply these with the jig. The nuts will extend out beyond the clutch cover allowing you to bolt the timber jig to the nut - assuming the bolt spacing is OK. The pain of this method is you have remove the timber jig to adjust the chain.

My 076 also mounts to the bar bolts on my alaskan. I took the clutch cover and chain brake off and I made an ally space plate to go between the mill and the bar. You can see this is you follow my sig below. I can adjust the chain without removing the saw from the mill.



> The 076 started 3rd pull using 50 to 1 fuel oil ratio.I know 40 to 1 was recommended when it was sold but who knows.Bit of extra oil might replace the lack of lead in the unleaded fuel.


The oil and the lead are primarily for different purposes. Lead is for antiknock has been replaced with other antiknock agents. I use and would recommend 40:1 for milling - no problems. 



> Awesome cross cutting power. Chugging along like an old British MotorBike. Not the high pitch whine like my MS250! The push pin type chain oiler is boring. Does anyone know how to disable it and make it full flowing all the time.(Apparently this was an option when the saw was made but I dont have a manual to see)


Yeah, I really notice the difference moving between something like an 066 and the 076. You should not need to use the manual oiler (I never use mine while milling). Moving the lever near the carby adjusting screws over towards the "+" sign will make it flow faster. The 076 is not a big oil deliverer and an aux oiler should be used for longer bar lengths.


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## chrislemiller (Nov 18, 2008)

*Thanks for this reply.*

I knew you had a Stihl 076. Nice seeing it in action on your BIL Mill.(Though not got Quick Time nor seen the video yet)
I had not considered the Timberjigs guide plate might yield under the weight of the Beast.(Interesting we both call it a beast!) God knows how lumberjacks used this for cutting trees down.I have to move it around in a wheelbarrow.I read in a forum in the USA that someone got flipped over in a somersalt when the chain pinched or something.Such is the power this saw has.I`ve used it once to saw up a tree into woodburning stove sized logs.Did the job faster than my MS250 or MS017 but my back.......and of course using it with a certain amount of fear,trepidation etc held fully at arms length didnt help.Starting 3rd pull really impressed me.Usually things bought in auctions are knackered. I will persevere with a Timberjig & report back.There is a 30 to 60 day money back guarantee so if it does not fit I will get an Alaskan which is twice the price off ebay


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## BlueRider (Nov 18, 2008)

I have no doubt I am in the minority here but I run 50:1 in my 051. And once I get my 075 back up and running I will run it is that again too. I have been doing so since I bought my 038M in the mid 1990's and I only use my 051 for milling. I am still running the same piston and rings and I have milled a lot of big wood with a 42" bar.

I had been running 32:1 untill I bought the 038. when I bought the newer saw it was suposed to run 50:1 and I really didn't want to carry two diferent cans of fuel so I asked the guy at the shop I bought it at and he put me in touch with someone at Stihl USA. I was told that when a saw runs out of fuel it aproaches a 80:1 or even 90:1. since a chainsaw is almost always run dry it is designed to run at these mix ratios, otherwise they would die from simple runing out of fuel. I was also told that the older saws were specd at 32:1 with the oils available at the time. The newer oils are superior and for that reason alone he recomended running at 50:1, even for milling. I now run the newer Stihl hp ultra and find it is well worth the money because of the low smoke out put.


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## BobL (Nov 18, 2008)

BlueRider said:


> . . . . . . I was told that when a saw runs out of fuel it aproaches a 80:1 or even 90:1. since a chainsaw is almost always run dry it is designed to run at these mix ratios, otherwise they would die from simple runing out of fuel.



I find this hard to understand - running out of fuel does not change the oil to raw gas ratio, it changes the mix to air ratio. 

I also don't think they are designed to run at 90:1 for an extended period, but they are able to tolerate it for short period, long enough for it to run out of fuel. 

I agree that 50:1 will let your saw live a comfortable life and it will probably die from other causes unrelated to the mix, but for me a 40:1 mix it's a risk reduction strategy. Milling Aussie hardwood consumes 2, or even 3, continuous tanks of mix just to cut one slab, this has to be very hard on any saw.


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## woodshop (Nov 18, 2008)

BobL said:


> I find this hard to understand - running out of fuel does not change the oil to raw gas ratio, it changes the mix to air ratio.
> 
> I also don't think they are designed to run at 90:1 for an extended period, but they are able to tolerate it for short period, long enough for it to run out of fuel.
> 
> I agree that 50:1 will let your saw live a comfortable life and it will probably die from other causes unrelated to the mix, but for me a 40:1 mix it's a risk reduction strategy. Milling Aussie hardwood consumes 2, or even 3, continuous tanks of mix just to cut one slab, this has to be very hard on any saw.



Agree on all three points made... wonder if they are talking about the fact that the saw does lean out right as it's running out of fuel, which is why it races at high rpm with it's last gasp... which would maybe SIMULATE running that thing at such high ratios for those few seconds. And true it was designed to tolerate that for those few seconds, but I wouldn't think much longer. 

This brings up an interesting question I've always wondered... what is the "engineering factor" or safety factor built into pro saws. Explained here for those who are interested...

http://basicmech.blogspot.com/2006/06/factor-of-safety.html

Saw an article once where they explained that things like trains and battle tanks have a safety factor of something like 50:1... most cars 12-15:1... most planes or almost anything that has to fly, single digits (yikes) meaning if that wing strut will see 100 lbs of force in a steep dive it is designed to take maybe 105 before it fails. In the case of planes it is weight that keeps that factor so low, but what about chainsaws? They are increasingly designed to be lighter, so does that decrease their engineering safety factor? They are designed today with supposedly better metal pistons and jugs so they can run hotter with those leaner mix ratios. Did those monster chainsaw "tanks" of only 30 years ago that ran with 16:1 mix and were so heavy they seemed to be made of cast iron hold up better to the stresses of the job than the lightweights of today that have just as much if not more power? 

Not trying to derail the thread, just came to mind.


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## BobL (Nov 19, 2008)

It's not only engines design its also other factors. When I ask my 85 year old Uncle what he considers the major changes during his lifetime he says the lengths of womens skirts and lubrication! He was a mechanic in the Italian airforce during WWII and he said they had very poor lubricants which meant it didn't matter how good the engineering was because their stuff wore out so quickly. When the Allies came up through Italy and the Italian Airforce finally switched sides they were given some quality lubricants by the American airforce, and suddenly the Italian planes could fly 5 times longer between services.

I think these improvements have continued and engines can be built to improved tolerances and to take much greater stresses . The Fiat Ducato turbo diesel van only needs to have services every 30000 miles and is designed for a very high number of total miles.

Another good example is the difference between my 076 and recently acquired 066 - same HP - but the 076 is built like a tank while the 066 seems like a bit of a toy in comparison - but we know the 066 is still a tough saw.


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## chrislemiller (Dec 1, 2008)

*oils*

I had an interesting conversation yesterday with a mechanic who does a lot of off-roading in Landrover or on scrambler motor bike.He reckoned the new synthetic oils had revolutionised engine performances and no matter how hot a chain saw got the synthetic oil would still be doing its lubricating job.I told him about the man using normal tractor engine oil in his 25:1 petrol mix in his chain saw instead of special 2 stroke oil (or Stihl 50:1 oil that I use) and the mechanic reckoned so long as it was a high performance synthetic oil it would be ok. Of course when the 076 was made,oils were probably more primitive & maybe the special oil Stihl has developed wasnt available.


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## woodshop (Dec 1, 2008)

chrislemiller said:


> ...I told him about the man using normal tractor engine oil in his 25:1 petrol mix in his chain saw instead of special 2 stroke oil (or Stihl 50:1 oil that I use) and the mechanic reckoned so long as it was a high performance synthetic oil it would be ok...



I'm sure this is not news to anybody here, but I remember as a kid for chainsaw mix, as well as other two stroke engines like the Lawnboy mowers, everybody just used regular engine oil mixed with gas... 16:1 or 24:1. There might have been special mix oil available, but nobody I knew used it. We all just used regular engine oil mixed with gas. 

Don't know exactly when, but seems that 50:1 "standard" didn't come into play until the mid-80's or so, maybe later.


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## slabmaster (Dec 1, 2008)

Unfortunetly Unleaded and now ethonal throws a monkeywrench into the mix. They didn't have that tainted fuel back then.:jawdrop:


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