# Husqvarna 545 autotune starting trouble



## CAJ (Apr 29, 2013)

Question for the group...

I bought a husqvarna 545 a couple months ago as my first saw, so I'm a bit new to the whole thing and trying to get a feel for what's "normal".

When I first got it, I had some trouble getting it started, finally got it going, rev'd it up a bit, everything seemed great, so I shut it down and headed over to the tree (up a steep bank/cliff, so didn't want a running saw...). When I restarted it, I simply couldn't get it to rev up at all. Every time I'd give it any throttle, it would just die. Let it warm up a bit, no luck. Fortunately, I had brought a saw from work as a spare, so I set it aside for a bit and worked with that. Tried again several times over the next 2 hours with the same result every time. Took it back to the dealer and they got it going the next day and told me everything was fine but that I really needed to start it and quickly get it into some wood to make a couple solid cuts because that's the way the "autotune" tunes the saw, so that was probably my problem. Ok, I'll give that a try.

I tried that the next day and still had the same trouble once I started it - just didn't want to rev. As soon as I give it enough throttle to even think about turning the chain, it would die. I was finally able to get it going after ~5min of letting it warm up and trying to gently give it a little gas. Once I did, I immediately made some cuts and everything seemed good to go. I worked for a couple more hours that day and once it was warm, I could shut it down and restart no problem. 

Unfortunately, I've continued to have the same problem every time I've used it since then. It's hard to start in the first place (pull several times w/ choke until it goes a touch, then choke off and pull a lot more until it actually starts). Then, I have to sit there and baby it, let it warm up and try to coax it into reving for 5min until I can actually start cutting. Once I get it going, it runs great. 

Any thoughts? Somehow it doesn't seem like I should have this much trouble getting a brand new saw to run!

A few notes on what I've been doing so far in case any of it makes a difference...

1) I've run probably 12 or so tanks through it so far.

2) I've been using premium gas (with ethonol, unfortunately) with the husqvarna oil. I have a 1 gal. can and have been using the small, pre measured oil can for 1 gal to make sure I have the right mix ratio. I've also been using an additive to counteract the ethonol that also has a stabalizer in it (can't remember the name off the top of my heat) that was recommended by the dealer.

3) To start, I put the choke on and pull until it starts to catch, then take the choke off by squeezing and releasing the throttle then pull until it goes (total, that's probably 20-30 pulls). I haven't been using the decompression button at all - it's easy enough to pull without it on a saw this small.

Any thoughts/help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks


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## Jacob J. (Apr 29, 2013)

I have a new 545 and I haven't had much starting trouble with it, but my experience has been to only use the choke if the saw is stone cold. 

Mine starts right up without using the choke if I've run it within the last 3 or 4 hours or if it's a warm day (+65 degrees f.)

The auto-tune module is designed to run the saw as lean as possible without engine damage during operation but it's also 
designed to give it plenty of fuel to start and if the saw is warm it will flood if you're using the choke. Then it takes many pulls
to clear it.


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## CAJ (Apr 29, 2013)

Hmm, I don't think I've ever tried to start it on a day as warm as 65F, although yesterday was at least 60. Maybe I should give it a try without the choke. Most days that I've been using it, it's been in the 40 - 55deg range. 

Have you had any trouble getting it to rev up once you've started it? That's the big thing that seems strange to me.


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## Jacob J. (Apr 29, 2013)

I haven't had trouble getting mine to rev up but I let it warm up at idle for 20-30 seconds before hitting the wood. My understanding is that the module adjusts itself under a load and then once the initial adjustment is made, it uses that as a baseline. I also run my mix at 40:1.


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## w8ye (Apr 29, 2013)

I have a 545 that I got back in the winter.

Never any real problems except when I restart it for any cut maybe 10 min later, I notice it readjusting the mixture again. It is OK with itself by the finish of the first cut and as long as you keep cutting it stays great.

A couple things I notice and it may be just the way you wrote it? To start a warm saw like this, you set the choke and then just click the choke part off - don't touch the throttle - and then start it up. If you touch the throttle after taking the choke off, it turns the fast idle off too. This makes the 545 hard to start.


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## CAJ (Apr 29, 2013)

w8ye said:


> A couple things I notice and it may be just the way you wrote it? To start a warm saw like this, you set the choke and then just click the choke part off - don't touch the throttle - and then start it up. If you touch the throttle after taking the choke off, it turns the fast idle off too. This makes the 545 hard to start.



Ok, that may be something that I'm doing wrong then. Just to clarify, my trouble is with the saw when it's cold, not warm. That said, I have been setting the choke, pulling until it starts to catch and then taking the choke off using the throttle. Sounds like I should be taking it off just by flipping the choke lever back up?

I'm headed out to cut some wood after work tonight, so I'll give that a try.


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## moody (Apr 29, 2013)

Is the chain brake on? I've seen saws that'd start cold but die with the brake on if you revd them. And I agree with the guys above you don't always need to choke it. Flooding a saw can be a frustrating and time consuming deal.


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## CAJ (Apr 29, 2013)

moody said:


> Is the chain brake on? I've seen saws that'd start cold but die with the brake on if you revd them. And I agree with the guys above you don't always need to choke it. Flooding a saw can be a frustrating and time consuming deal.



I should have mentioned that! No, the chainbrake is off. 

A question about the flooding though - it makes sense that it might be causing some of the starting trouble, but I'm assuming that wouldn't be continuing to make it not want to rev for the first several minutes, right? Does anyone have any thoughts on that part?

Thanks!


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## moody (Apr 29, 2013)

CAJ said:


> I should have mentioned that! No, the chainbrake is off.
> 
> A question about the flooding though - it makes sense that it might be causing some of the starting trouble, but I'm assuming that wouldn't be continuing to make it not want to rev for the first several minutes, right? Does anyone have any thoughts on that part?
> 
> Thanks!



If it's loaded with a fuel rich mixture it will bog and die. Take your plug out with the switch off hold the saw upside down and give it about 10 pulls. Make sure your tank is empty when you do this. Then I always take my plug and us a lighter and burn off the excess fuel off it.


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## CAJ (Apr 29, 2013)

moody said:


> If it's loaded with a fuel rich mixture it will bog and die. Take your plug out with the switch off hold the saw upside down and give it about 10 pulls. Make sure your tank is empty when you do this. Then I always take my plug and us a lighter and burn off the excess fuel off it.



Ah, thanks.

Sounds like the whole thing may just be the way I'm starting it. I'll give it a try either without the choke or with if needed, but taking it off without the throttle tonight and see how it goes.


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## spike60 (Apr 29, 2013)

CAJ said:


> then take the choke off by squeezing and releasing the throttle



This is your problem. Turning the choke off by squeezing the trigger also turns off the high idle setting on the carb. All you need to do is push the choke button back down, which will leave the carb set on the high idle position.


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## jeepchief (Apr 29, 2013)

*similar issue*

I purchased the 455 with autotune this winter. I had similar issues starting mine. For my saw I've found that the decompression switch is not really required and I don't use the "choke" unless it is cold. It usually starts on the 2nd or 3rd pull. Then I kind of let it go through it's paces. It will idle slow then go into a high idle and once it returns to a normal idle I am able to give it gas without stalling. This all happens I would guess in 30 seconds or a minute at most.

These are just things that I have observed. I know you have a different saw but I would think the autotune would function in a similar fashion. Maybe you could stop by the dealer and have them put it on the computer if somebody here can't help. The computer tells all.


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## eric_ssi (Apr 29, 2013)

spike60 said:


> This is your problem. Turning the choke off by squeezing the trigger also turns off the high idle setting on the carb. All you need to do is push the choke button back down, which will leave the carb set on the high idle position.



Said it for me! :msp_thumbup:


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## CAJ (Apr 29, 2013)

eric_ssi said:


> Said it for me! :msp_thumbup:



Thanks guys!

I'll give that a try tonight. Never realized how much I was changing just by killing the choke with the throttle! Some how I thought that's the way I was supposed to do it, but not sure where that came from.


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## zogger (Apr 29, 2013)

CAJ said:


> Thanks guys!
> 
> I'll give that a try tonight. Never realized how much I was changing just by killing the choke with the throttle! Some how I thought that's the way I was supposed to do it, but not sure where that came from.



I know it is allegedly against the manly man code, but there is a manual with new saws...just sayin...what exactly does yours say about proper cold start?


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## hamish (Apr 29, 2013)

zogger said:


> I know it is allegedly against the manly man code, but there is a manual with new saws...just sayin...what exactly does yours say about proper cold start?



The lost art of RTFM!

Even the Stihlheads have a high idle position on the master control lever, but likewise they just pull and pull and pull.


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## Chris-PA (Apr 29, 2013)

hamish said:


> The lost art of RTFM!
> 
> Even the Stihlheads have a high idle position on the master control lever, but likewise they just pull and pull and pull.


I thought it was pay and pay and pay.....


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## naturelover (Apr 29, 2013)

hamish said:


> The lost art of RTFM!
> 
> Even the Stihlheads have a high idle position on the master control lever, but likewise they just pull and pull and pull.



Well, I hardly ever pull more than twice on the 441C, sometimes just once..



Chris-PA said:


> I thought it was pay and pay and pay.....



Well, that could be true... :msp_biggrin:


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## CAJ (Apr 30, 2013)

zogger said:


> I know it is allegedly against the manly man code, but there is a manual with new saws...just sayin...what exactly does yours say about proper cold start?



Yup. In this case it wasn't an issue of not reading, but not remembering! Somehow I got it in my head that I was supposed to take the choke off w/ the throttle - and thought that came from what I read in the manual but hadn't gone back to check. I had actually just looked back last night before I saw your reply and, big surprise, it says to do exactly what you guys are telling me to... That should teach me! 


Unfortunately, life got in the way last night and I didn't even have a chance to go start the saw let alone go cut wood. I'll try to make sure I at least have a chance to start it up tonight and see if using the correct procedure helps.


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## zogger (Apr 30, 2013)

CAJ said:


> Yup. In this case it wasn't an issue of not reading, but not remembering! Somehow I got it in my head that I was supposed to take the choke off w/ the throttle - and thought that came from what I read in the manual but hadn't gone back to check. I had actually just looked back last night before I saw your reply and, big surprise, it says to do exactly what you guys are telling me to... That should teach me!
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, life got in the way last night and I didn't even have a chance to go start the saw let alone go cut wood. I'll try to make sure I at least have a chance to start it up tonight and see if using the correct procedure helps.



Well, good for you! Sometimes it is the little things, heck...heard a rumor,,some richard cranium was yanking and yanking on some saw..wouldnt start.

Amazing what flicking the button to ON will do......



Heard another tale.....same deal, yank yank yank [email protected]@$^^&#!! CHOICE LANGUAGE, wt.. just cleaned this thing up nice and purty, fresh mix..hmm..pull air cleaner off..Wow, saws sure do start and run better with the spark plug wire on the plug!!!

 


Best tale...saw starts and runs fine, then nuthin. engine running, no cutting action. OMG, boss s saw, musta broke it somehow..eek...drag to the shop....guy starts laughing, CLICK..unlocks brake...nameless richard cranium, who had only ever run older saws before this new one, goes..I thought that was just a fancy knuckle guard!


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## lovemysan (Apr 30, 2013)

I've had similar issues with my 550xp. Not as hard to start as yours but finicky and very cold blooded. Not wanting to rev off idle. I'm sending mine to tk to be checked out. The local dealer claimed everything was "in spec"






CAJ said:


> Question for the group...
> 
> I bought a husqvarna 545 a couple months ago as my first saw, so I'm a bit new to the whole thing and trying to get a feel for what's "normal".
> 
> ...


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## huskydude (Apr 30, 2013)

CAJ said:


> Unfortunately, life got in the way last night and I didn't even have a chance to go start the saw let alone go cut wood. I'll try to make sure I at least have a chance to start it up tonight and see if using the correct procedure helps.



I hate when life gets in the way of what you actually want to be doing :msp_thumbdn:


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## CAJ (May 1, 2013)

Good stories Zogger! I'm sure we've all been there at one time or another. Sometimes the obvious things are the easiest to miss! 

Huskydude - agreed! Fortunately in this case it was one thing that I wanted to do getting in the way of another. Putting in some garden beds at the new house and just got an e-mail letting me know my raspberry plants had shipped and should be here today. So suddenly the clock's ticking! So I had to work on that. 

The real misadventure came last night when I borrowed the dump trailer from work to get some topsoil & mulch for the raspberry bed. Had 2 yd of dirt in the trailer and a yard of mulch in the bed of the truck. Found out 2 things in quick succession: 1) My yard is still a lot softer/wetter than I thought from walking on it. 2) The 4WD on my truck seems to be broken (transfer case won't engage). Got everything done that needed to be done eventually, but hadn't planned on spending the evening that way. Got to meet a neighbor who I hadn't met yet who saw our difficulties and was nice enough to come over and use his truck (with working 4WD) to finish backing the trailer where it needed to go so I didn't have to just dump it where it was and finish the job with a wheelbarrow (that would have taken awhile!). Of course now I get to fix a bunch of nice ruts in the lawn and have to figure out what's going on with the truck. The fun never ends...

But, I did take the time to at least fire up the saw. No surprise that it started much easier this time. It was still pretty hesitant to take any throttle at first, but that was also less of an issue than it's been in the past. When it first started, it went into high idle for a bit and then just died. Restarted a couple times to get it to be willing to really take off & rev. So, not 100%, but still much better than I've seen before. That's good news.

Thanks again to everyone for pointing me in the right direction!


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## wanoyee (Jun 11, 2013)

CAJ said:


> ... But, I did take the time to at least fire up the saw. No surprise that it started much easier this time. It was still pretty hesitant to take any throttle at first, but that was also less of an issue than it's been in the past. When it first started, it went into high idle for a bit and then just died. Restarted a couple times to get it to be willing to really take off & rev. So, not 100%, but still much better than I've seen before. That's good news.
> 
> Thanks again to everyone for pointing me in the right direction!



CAJ... How is the saw starting now? Any more problems? How is it performing?


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## Karl Robbers (Jun 11, 2013)

CAJ said:


> 3) To start, I put the choke on and pull until it starts to catch, then take the choke off by squeezing and releasing the throttle then pull until it goes (total, that's probably 20-30 pulls). I haven't been using the decompression button at all - it's easy enough to pull without it on a saw this small.


There's at least part of your problem. You don't remove the choke that way. Choke is removed by pushing down on the control until it clicks. This leaves the saw set on high idle, but with the choke off.
I suggest you read your instruction book again.


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## bcaarms (Jun 11, 2013)

*Read The Manual*

The X Torq saws and XP saws are unbelievably easy to flood. Tried to explain to a Stihl friend of mine how to start my XT. He has never started a ported saw, yet didn’t let a little thing like that get in the way. Tried to tell him to not touch the throttle once the choke had been set. He didn’t have time for that BS and picked it up and proceeded to drop start the saw. When the cord didn’t budge he pulled again. Somewhere during the display of machismo the throttle was pulled. It then became very tough to explain anything because now the reason it won’t start is because it’s a Husky. 
I pulled out the 385 and set the choke, pulled once and it popped. Pulled again and it started and immediately went to fast idle. Released brake and blipped throttle. I put the saws up for the night. Next morning before leaving to cut some wood I started the 371 the same way. The procedure outlined in the manual works every time.:msp_thumbup:


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## KenJax Tree (Jun 11, 2013)

To start the new saws: pull the choke out and all the way up and pull until it "pops" (2-4 pulls) push the choke down until it clicks its now on fast idle pull until it starts (1-3 pulls) let it run fast for a few second and blip the throttle and it will drop down to idle normally. If you miss the "pop" and keep pulling its gonna flood and it will never start.


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## CAJ (Jun 12, 2013)

wanoyee said:


> CAJ... How is the saw starting now? Any more problems? How is it performing?



Thanks for checking in. 

I've been out a couple times in the past few weeks and it's generally starting a lot better, but is still pretty hesitant to rev up and really get going after it's started. So I find that even using proper starting procedure (choke on, pull until there's a "pop", choke off and into high idle position - using choke lever, not throttle, pull to start, let it run for a bit), it'll start pretty well but sometimes dies just with the high idle and still takes some coaxing and a few min of running to be able to give it any throttle without it just quitting.

It's generally pretty good once it's warmed up, but even then I've still had periodic troubles - especially if I've run it a bit and then let it sit for 10-15min while I do something else and pick it up again. In that case I'll usually just click the choke on and off to set the high idle but don't pull it at all with the choke on. I'll still sometimes have a good bit of trouble getting it to rev and get going.

So, overall a lot better, but still takes a lot more babying than I'd really expect from a brand new saw. I just haven't had the time to really give it much more thought recently as life in general has been crazy busy.


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## wanoyee (Jun 12, 2013)

Appreciate the update... I was at the dealer yesterday. He tried to fire up a 545 and had trouble! ... a dealer! I'm kinda wondering if I should purchase one or not. 

How is it in wood?


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## CAJ (Jun 12, 2013)

wanoyee said:


> Appreciate the update... I was at the dealer yesterday. He tried to fire up a 545 and had trouble! ... a dealer! I'm kinda wondering if I should purchase one or not.
> 
> How is it in wood?



Once it's running & cutting, it's great! 

Keep in mind that I don't have a ton of experience and the only other saw I've run is a 455 that we have at work, but relative to that, my 545 seems to cut a bit better/faster and is a lot lighter. It does definitely seem to favor keeping a light touch, keeping the revs up and letting the saw do the work (i.e. don't let it bog down), but as long as I do that, I've been very happy with it.

Now if I could only get it to start and run quickly/reliably....


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## Philip Wheelock (Jun 12, 2013)

CAJ said:


> ...I find that even using proper starting procedure (choke on, pull until there's a "pop", choke off and into high idle position - using choke lever, not throttle, pull to start, let it run for a bit), it'll start pretty well but sometimes dies just with the high idle and still takes some coaxing and a few min of running to be able to give it any throttle without it just quitting.
> 
> It's generally pretty good once it's warmed up, but even then I've still had periodic troubles - especially if I've run it a bit and then let it sit for 10-15min while I do something else and pick it up again. In that case I'll usually just click the choke on and off to set the high idle but don't pull it at all with the choke on. I'll still sometimes have a good bit of trouble getting it to rev and get going.
> 
> So, overall a lot better, but still takes a lot more babying than I'd really expect from a brand new saw...



Sounds like a lemon to me. I'd take it back to the dealer again and insist that they either make it work right or have them ship it back to Husqvarna and give you a another model that does work, maybe this time with a standard carb that they might know how to repair. Or contact Husqvarna directly and tell them that they've got dealers who can't repair the new technology and ask them to make things right. Or put the thing on CL... Sheesh.


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## KenJax Tree (Jun 12, 2013)

Philip Wheelock said:


> Sounds like a lemon to me. I'd take it back to the dealer again and insist that they either make it work right or have them ship it back to Husqvarna and give you a another model that does work, maybe this time with a standard carb that they might know how to repair. Or contact Husqvarna directly and tell them that they've got dealers who can't repair the new technology and ask them to make things right. Or put the thing on CL... Sheesh.



Maybe the dealer don't even know the starting procedure,you'd be suprised what the dealers don't know.


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## Philip Wheelock (Jun 12, 2013)

KenJax Tree said:


> Maybe the dealer don't even know the starting procedure,you'd be suprised what the dealers don't know.



The Husky and Stihl dealers in my town are pretty good; I feel lucky for that. Seems, though, that the hot potatoes for both are the auto-tune and m-tronic technologies. The Stihl tech says he won't offer an opinion on the m-tronic saws until they've been in the field for another five years. Husky dealer says that the pro's stick to the 346's, 372's and 390's. They're both old school and the hints are unmistakeable: there's more chance of bugs and reliability issues with the new designs. But at least you're given the heads-up about that and can then decide whether to be a first-adopter.


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## zogger (Jun 12, 2013)

CAJ said:


> Once it's running & cutting, it's great!
> 
> Keep in mind that I don't have a ton of experience and the only other saw I've run is a 455 that we have at work, but relative to that, my 545 seems to cut a bit better/faster and is a lot lighter. It does definitely seem to favor keeping a light touch, keeping the revs up and letting the saw do the work (i.e. don't let it bog down), but as long as I do that, I've been very happy with it.
> 
> Now if I could only get it to start and run quickly/reliably....



OK, official weirdness. they are gonna string you along until warranty expires or you get sick of it. Perhaps it needs recalibration or something else. Doesn't matter anymore, their lookout, you want to work, not commute back and forth to the shop. If you are strictly following proper starting technique now, and it still sucks and doesn't work correctly like a regular plain carb saw..take it back, get another , different non autotune saw. Some things just ain't worth messing with over and over and over again..


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## TK (Jun 12, 2013)

The more they get used, the easier it gets. If you're still having problems after a half dozen tanks of fuel then it's time to look a little deeper. 

99% of the time I fire up mine I let it run the high idle for 30 seconds or so before kicking it down. Even with as much time on it as I have now I don't think I can nail full RPM immediately on a cold start, nor do I want to. After kicking down the high idle I typically let the saw idle on the ground for a couple minutes before starting work. 

Granted I have adjusted the carburetors on these saws, which may be your problem if that has not been done.


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## wanoyee (Jun 12, 2013)

TK said:


> Granted I have adjusted the carburetors on these saws, which may be your problem if that has not been done.



Is it possible for the end user to tune the saw without the software and cables?


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## TK (Jun 12, 2013)

wanoyee said:


> Is it possible for the end user to tune the saw without the software and cables?



It's not even possible for a dealer to "tune" the saw persay 

But you can pop the air filter bracket off and give this little guy a 1/4 turn counterclockwise, that should help. I went about 3/8 with mine, somewhere in that range will be fine. 
Left hand side, little spot above where the carb screw goes through.


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## sgrizz (Jun 12, 2013)

TK said:


> It's not even possible for a dealer to "tune" the saw persay
> 
> But you can pop the air filter bracket off and give this little guy a 1/4 turn counterclockwise, that should help. I went about 3/8 with mine, somewhere in that range will be fine.
> Left hand side, little spot above where the carb screw goes through.



Tk is the 555 have this screw also ? I have had issues with my 555 (6 tanks thru so far) some days runs good and others it has the hesitates off idle issue. Out of warranty now so its on me to pay to fix it.


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## MarkEagleUSA (Jun 12, 2013)

TK said:


> But you can pop the air filter bracket off and give this little guy a 1/4 turn counterclockwise, that should help. I went about 3/8 with mine, somewhere in that range will be fine. Left hand side, little spot above where the carb screw goes through.


And exactly what is that and what does adjusting it do?


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## TK (Jun 12, 2013)

sgrizz said:


> Tk is the 555 have this screw also ? I have had issues with my 555 (6 tanks thru so far) some days runs good and others it has the hesitates off idle issue. Out of warranty now so its on me to pay to fix it.



555/562 does not have it. 555 should carry a 2 year warranty you must have bought a real early one?


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## TK (Jun 12, 2013)

MarkEagleUSA said:


> And exactly what is that and what does adjusting it do?



It's an adjuster screw and it makes them start good and stuff


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## Rudolf73 (Jun 13, 2013)

TK said:


> It's an adjuster screw and it makes them start good and stuff



Good to know.


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## TK (Jun 13, 2013)

I don't remember who originally found the screw, may have been brad or bob, I'm just passing along what I've learned. Can't take credit for that one. 

That screw does not show on any ipl, husky or walbro. Walbro hardly acknowledges that the AT carbs exist on their site LOL


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## wanoyee (Jun 13, 2013)

TK said:


> It's an adjuster screw and it makes them start good and stuff



Just so there's no misunderstanding... Is this the screw (red circle) that you are talking about?

View attachment 299941


And this will affect the autotune somehow to "start good and stuff"? Is there any other info available?


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## TK (Jun 13, 2013)

Yes, in the red circle is correct. I haven't dissected the carb yet to see exactly where it goes and how it functions, but like any carb you have to have bleeds for different purposes in the carb. The L and H passages are not the only places that allow flowage through the carb. 

Not being up to date with my terminology and usual bad with words I'm not going to be the best person to describe it. I get lucky once in a while.


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## CAJ (Jun 13, 2013)

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.

Overall, I'd like it to start and run a bit easier, but don't think it's bad enough that I'm likely to be looking to return it and replace. Partly I simply haven't had time to really look into it, take it to the dealer, etc... So, I'm not giving up yet.

TK - thanks for all the input! It sounds like I should generally be letting it warm up a bit more before trying to use it, so I'll try that as well. I probably have 10-15 tanks through it at this point, so not a lot, but also not brand new. I might give that screw a try as well one of these days.

One challenge that I have is that I don't think my dealer has dealt with many AT saws, so they're not likely to be as much help as I had hoped. I'll give them another try if needed, but then may simply look for a more knowledgeable dealer to take it to. These guys seemed good at first and they're right around the corner from my house (less than 5min walk!), so that makes them very easy to deal with. We'll see. 

First I have to get through another few projects and then will maybe have time to think about the saw a bit more. Building some stairs & a new railing for a 2nd floor deck is on the top of the list for this weekend. Maybe a start on some new flooring as well if I get time. No shortage of things to do in a 200yr old house!


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## wanoyee (Jun 13, 2013)

TK said:


> Not being up to date with my terminology and usual bad with words I'm not going to be the best person to describe it. I get lucky once in a while.



Thanks TK! Your technical terms are just fine with me... Totally understand what you are saying.


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## Joe Kidd (Jun 13, 2013)

I fired up my 545 prior to removing the muff to send to Brad, and had a little issue with the saw wanting to bog coming off high idle. It was definitely cold natured so I also opened up the "mystery" screw about 1/4 turn as was suggested. TK, I was surprised how easily the screw moved. I also opened my last pail of SEF94 which was about 2 years old, so maybe it's age and volatility may come into question. My Robin weed wacker and BR550 backpack are a little slow to start on the same fuel. At anyrate when the muff comes back I'm trying some fresh 89 non-eth and hoping for success. The all orange and 16" Pro-Lite sure look good together. Hope it runs as good as it's big brother.


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## sunfish (Jun 13, 2013)

I saw no mention of using the air purge bulb? Some call it a primer bulb, but it's not.

My 562xp sure does like a few pumps. :msp_wink:


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## Joe Kidd (Jun 13, 2013)

Yep. I usually hit 'em 3 or 4 times. A couple more on a new saw.


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## TK (Jun 14, 2013)

sunfish said:


> I saw no mention of using the air purge bulb? Some call it a primer bulb, but it's not.
> 
> My 562xp sure does like a few pumps. :msp_wink:



Ya I left that part out, assumed it was being used. I haven't quite grown out of the assumption stage, some day I'll make it there to the point where nothing is ever assumed :hmm3grin2orange:


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## TK (Jun 14, 2013)

I've been toying around with the idea of making a cold start/warm start vid for the 550. I just have no idea how to edit videos and splice two together etc. I'd like to be able to eliminate irrelevant recordings like setting the camera down and other boring stuff, just keep the vid to the meat of it for instructional purposes.


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## sunfish (Jun 14, 2013)

I have an early 562xp AT and had trouble with warm starts. *Untill I learn how to start the saw.* :msp_rolleyes:

Now it is the easiest starting saw I've ever used...

The bulb works great on the 346xp also!


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## wanoyee (Jun 14, 2013)

TK said:


> But you can pop the air filter bracket off and give this little guy a 1/4 turn counterclockwise, that should help.



How easy is it to pop off the air filter bracket? I was looking at it on a 545 at dealer's... Didn't look too easy. Seemed to have stuff connected to it. Not sure what it all was.


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## TK (Jun 14, 2013)

It takes a little finesse but it's not terrible. 5 minute job with a flat screwdriver and 4mm ball end Allen wrench - assuming the area is clean. 6 minute job if you have to clean it out first.


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## knothole (Sep 16, 2013)

KenJax Tree said:


> To start the new saws: pull the choke out and all the way up and pull until it "pops" (2-4 pulls) push the choke down until it clicks its now on fast idle pull until it starts (1-3 pulls) let it run fast for a few second and blip the throttle and it will drop down to idle normally. If you miss the "pop" and keep pulling its gonna flood and it will never start.



Nailed it, Bingo. This is the EXACT starting procedure for my 435. Do it any other way and you'll see that a 435 will tire your arm out too.


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## knothole (Sep 16, 2013)

knothole said:


> Nailed it, Bingo. This is the EXACT starting procedure for my 435. Do it any other way and you'll see that a 435 will tire your arm out too.



Also, I've been lusting for a 545 for awhile and I had new one in my hands today. It feels lighter than my 435! Soon as I get me bonus, I'm gittin one!


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## zogger (Sep 16, 2013)

TK said:


> I've been toying around with the idea of making a cold start/warm start vid for the 550. I just have no idea how to edit videos and splice two together etc. I'd like to be able to eliminate irrelevant recordings like setting the camera down and other boring stuff, just keep the vid to the meat of it for instructional purposes.



Video Editor - YouTube

Never used it, but there ya go, I just knew it existed


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