# Reg chains vs. Low kickback chains



## Scootermsp (Aug 18, 2008)

Put a yellow Stihl (not a low-kickback chain) on my Husky 371xp with 24" bar and will never go back to low kick back chain again. In fact I ordered 5 woodsman 18" and an 18" bar for the 371 from Bailey's so it can use the same chains as my 55 rancher. These chains cut twice as fast as the LKB type but you can feel them pull the saw away from you when cutting with the bottom of the bar.


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## Billy_Bob (Aug 19, 2008)

I have the yellow chains on the saws I use, but then I am always wearing Personal Protective Equipment and I have watched many videos/read books on how not to have a saw kick back on you. And I always watch the tip of my bar.

But I do have one saw which has the green label bar and a green label chain which is for when I have a helper who is not well trained. But I still make them wear PPE and I watch them like a hawk!

PPE=Chaps, hardhat*, face shield**, ear muffs, chainsaw protective gloves, and work boots.

*I always wear the hardhat when working with the chainsaw, mainly because the muffs and face shield are attached. Anyway I was working in a lady's yard and she had a tree with a branch just low enough to hit me in the head as I walked by. I kept forgetting to duck, but my hardhat saved me each time I walked by!

**The face shield has saved me too. I have the shield down when moving branches around (branches just limbed off a tree). Every once and awhile one of those branches whips up and smacks me in the face. But my face shield comes to the rescue!


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## mantis (Aug 19, 2008)

I don't use LKB chain.Don't like it


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## skid row (Aug 19, 2008)

Scootermsp said:


> Put a yellow Stihl (not a low-kickback chain) on my Husky 371xp with 24" bar and will never go back to low kick back chain again. In fact I ordered 5 woodsman 18" and an 18" bar for the 371 from Bailey's so it can use the same chains as my 55 rancher. These chains cut twice as fast as the LKB type but you can feel them pull the saw away from you when cutting with the bottom of the bar.



Ya cant beat that full chisel woodsman chain for the price. Been using it on the 026's and it cuts great.

As for low kickback chain I give it to some friends who dont really care how slow it is, and some of it gets sold on flea bay.


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## dnf0929 (Aug 19, 2008)

Thanks for the suggestion. Saw this post yesterday and figured I'd give the yellow a try too because my 310 was cutting slow and crooked. I actually had the old green chain sharpened at a local hardware store but I think they had a 16 year old kid doing it. The difference was amazing. I did in about 10 minutes what it took me a hour to do with the old chain. I don't think I've ever had a really sharp chain before. Can't wait to get back out and finish off the rest. Got some files/guide/depth gauge and think I'll give sharpening a try myself. At least now I know the difference between a sharp and dull chain.


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## Zackman1801 (Aug 19, 2008)

dnf0929 said:


> At least now I know the difference between a sharp and dull chain.


another thing to watch for is chips vs dust, if your getting lots of small half pieces of chips and lots of dust your dull. 
We use the low kickback stuff at school and its ok, i dont like it as much as my regular chisel chain but i dont complain because it still gets the job done fine. if you file the LKB stuff well it will cut almost as fast as the regular chain. but you have to be able to file well.


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## Jkebxjunke (Aug 19, 2008)

my ms250 has a green bar and chain... I filed the rakers down a bit and what a difference.. it makes some nice chips


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## Scootermsp (Aug 19, 2008)

*Protective Gear*

Before a few years ago I was an idiot and used only gloves and eye protection. Then I cut a spring about 4" in diameter that was over some power lines in an ice storm and that f***ing thing hit me in the forehead as hard as I've ever been hit by anything. I stumbled away, shut off my saw, and took off my gloves. I reached up to feel my forehead and got to touch my own cranium with my fingers. Funny thing was I could feel a big gap in my skin and the various other fleshy meat that comprised my forehead and there really wasn't much blood. So I turned to my Father who was helping me and asked him how bad my head was. He turned GREY! So after a trip to the ER and a very skilled (I'm lucky they were good) stitch job (15 inside and about a dozen outside they made me purty again. The moral of the story is to WEAR A HELMET !!!!. For simple bucking now I don't wear one, but for all other cutting and felling ALWAYS. And chaps are a MUST. I've caught my Husqvarna chaps 2 times(minor enough to Duct tape) in the last 4 years and they stopped that saw dead. I'm real happy with my Husky Helmet, Gloves, and chaps. Also STEEL toe boots !!!!

This is reposted from another thread, I thought my story could save someone from getting hurt.


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## Austin1 (Aug 19, 2008)

For some reason I don't mind the safety chain in 3/8 low profile chain on my little saw's, I do run reg Carlton and Sandvick on them too. On the little chain I have found not much difference, But on .325 The safety chain was horrible! never tried it on 3/8ths.


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## Sawmill (Aug 19, 2008)

How can I tell if I have a low kick back chain. On most chains there is a color code on one link does this tell if it is a reg chain. Most of mine are green but I just bought a new chain and this one is yellow and seems to cut twice as fast as the others.


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## coppermouse (Aug 19, 2008)

Green = low kick back
yellow = not low kickback 
Yellow cuts better. The difference is the depth gauge (rakers) are shorter


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## Sawmill (Aug 19, 2008)

Thanks that is what I needed


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## kevin j (Aug 19, 2008)

Green = low kick back
yellow = not low kickback 
Yellow cuts better. The difference is the depth gauge (rakers) are shorter



more to it than that. depth gauges are set the same, usually .025 or so.
go to oregon or stihl sites for pics. antikickback has some sort of bumper design of the tie strap. Various methods, depending on mftr.


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## nosoot (Aug 19, 2008)

If you go to Stihl's site and look up the chains you will see all of the differences. It is more than just the rakers. And the full chisel tooth chain cutters look much different up close. The do dull a little easier but can be touched up just as easy with a hand file.


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## bore_pig (Aug 19, 2008)

A few swipes off the rakers on the safety chains really helps. I won't buy the safety chains anymore, but new bars for my dad's saw come as a combo, with safety chain. Can't just throw it away you know!


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## Brushwacker (Aug 19, 2008)

nosoot said:


> If you go to Stihl's site and look up the chains you will see all of the differences. It is more than just the rakers. And the full chisel tooth chain cutters look much different up close. The do dull a little easier but can be touched up just as easy with a hand file.



Semi chisel is easiar to sharpen primarily because the corner isn't as critical.
If the corner on full chisel is flawed it has more of a negative effect. Beginners usually will have better success sharpening semi chisel.

As far as Stihl green lable chain and most other safety chain I have used it doesn't seem to have a big effect unless the tip is in the wood which is much of the time when bucking firewood on the ground. When filing the drags I file those humps an extra stroke or 2 and they cut near what the other chains do. I don't care a lot for them when boring but 4 or 5 minutes of filing I can make the stihl rm2 work decent even for that. If its cheap enough or comes with a saw I'll use it.





s


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## OilHead (Aug 19, 2008)

I threw away the 1 stihl safety chain my dealer sold me. Had considered trying to sharpen it with the grinder but after close inspection of the massive rakers just said to :censored: with it.


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## Scootermsp (Aug 20, 2008)

*I'll try it on my 55 tommorow*

I'll be out cutting in the AM and put a Yellow Stihl 18" full chisel on my 55 Rancher and see how that works. Like I said on my 371xp with 24" bar it was night and day. I'm curious how the 371 will go with an 18" bar (enroute from Bailey's). If it works out I can use the same chains on both saws. Does anyone here buy their chains in 50 or 100 foot coils? I know you need a breaker/spinner to make your own. It seems not to be worth it for cutting a dozen cords a year.


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## Patrick62 (Aug 20, 2008)

*My $0.02 worth*

most safety chain is like :deadhorse: they really don't want to cut wood.
Biggest problem is that there is little room left for chips in the cut.

One time I got disgusted enough to grind off the offending humps! Lot of grinding, but it cut after that!

I buy 100' rolls, I figure it like this, it isn't gonna spoil is it??
I like the option of making up chains as I need them.

-Pat


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## avalancher (Aug 20, 2008)

I have to agree with Patrick62 on this one, a roll aint gonna rot in your garage, and you have that ability to quickly make up a chain if you rock one out or even break one. The difference really is a long term investment with a greater return, or a short term with a smaller investment. you will save money buying a roll and making your own, but it will take you longer to see a return on your money.
I would order several different chains from baileys, ask here on the boards what everyone prefers, and find the chain that works best for you and then buy a roll.


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## Patrick62 (Aug 20, 2008)

*1 roll??*

It started as a roll of 3/8 chain.
Then I had to expand. I now have:

All are .050 gauge

3/8 full comp
3/8 full skip

.325 full comp
.325 full skip

3/8 low profile

Once you have the breaker-spinner, and a grinder. You are caught!  

-Pat


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## BlueRidgeMark (Aug 20, 2008)

Patrick62 said:


> Once you have the breaker-spinner, and a grinder. You are caught!




I'm sure that's true! That's why I ain't goin' there!


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## saw mutt (Aug 20, 2008)

The problem with buying bulk chain at retail price you aren't really saving much over just buying loops.

For instance:

100ft roll of 3/8 = 1640 links = $229.95
18" chains takes 66 links..

Thats 24 chains plus some extra and comes out to 9.58 a chain (not counting the extra) plus the pre-sets and side straps (about 50 cents) and your time to break it and spin it.

Or you can buy the loop for 10.95...


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## Scootermsp (Aug 20, 2008)

*Saw Mutt*

That is exactly the same math I did when I first posted the question. I suppose it's nice to be self sufficient for chain. I'll tell you folks one thing, I am impressed as hell with Stihl's Yellow super (full chisel 3/8 .058) on my Husqvarnas. I ran the 372 all day today and it's still spitting out chips like crazy. These chains really keep their edge well. I cut from my 25' log length pile today (came to 3 cords) and it's still sharp. The 55 rancher also had a noticeable difference with the Yellow but not like the 372 did.


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## KsWoodsMan (Aug 20, 2008)

saw mutt said:


> The problem with buying bulk chain at retail price you aren't really saving much over just buying loops.
> 
> For instance:
> 
> ...


The dealers here get $1 per "bar inch" pluss $0.99. At that rate I would save some $ on a roll but it might take me 6-8 yeas to get to the end of the roll. Plus, they don't all use the same chain. Some 3/8 some .325 so make tha 2 rolls and twice as long. 

I buy loops as I need'em.


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## aandabooks (Aug 21, 2008)

Scootermsp said:


> That is exactly the same math I did when I first posted the question. I suppose it's nice to be self sufficient for chain. I'll tell you folks one thing, I am impressed as hell with Stihl's Yellow super (full chisel 3/8 .058) on my Husqvarnas. I ran the 372 all day today and it's still spitting out chips like crazy. These chains really keep their edge well. I cut from my 25' log length pile today (came to 3 cords) and it's still sharp. The 55 rancher also had a noticeable difference with the Yellow but not like the 372 did.



Now if you'd just run Stihl chain on Stihl saws you'd really have something going.:greenchainsaw:


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## hpontap (Aug 21, 2008)

We used to sell Oregon chain only, back in the '90's. Then the Stihl chain became more affordable, it is better chain in general. As far as safety chain goes, GREEN TIE STRAPS. No shop carries it in rolls that i Know of. Stihl does that for liability purposes, they come with the saws. Yellow chain (non-safety) is more efficient to buy in rolls, and cut yourself. Rolls of chain are around 300.00 now, for 100' 24" bar takes 84 drive links, stihl or husky. So you get about 20 chains per roll. Plus 200.00 for good breaker and spinner. We charge at least 7.00 to sharpen on our machine, you sharpen 5 times, then we clean it back up. Mic the cutting distance on both side, and adjust the rakers.


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