# Jacking/Lifting a log before cutting?



## MtnHermit (Jan 9, 2009)

In order to keep the chain out of the dirt, I'm wondering if it wouldn't make sense to lift some of the logs several inches before blocking?

This photo shows where I'm working:






Most of the trees are dead-fall and lying on the ground. Their sizes are all similar, 14-20" D, 40' long. I'm sure my hydraulic car jack would lift them, then I'd use limb logs to prop up the big log.

What do you pros do? 

Still learning. Thanks


----------



## brages (Jan 9, 2009)

Cut a bit more than halfway through, then roll the log over and cut through the other side.

A cant hook (I don't have one) would make rolling the log easier. You pretty much have to cut nearly through the log on one of your cuts to make it roll-able, in my experience.

There is a tool called a "timberjack" that is a sort of footed cant hook to prop your log off the ground. I don't have one of those easier, but I don't see a big advantage over the cut/roll/cut technique.


----------



## MtnHermit (Jan 9, 2009)

brages said:


> A cant hook (I don't have one) would make rolling the log easier.


That make sense, when I limb the log, I can leave a few limbs to provide the leverage for rolling. Simply have to plan ahead.

Thanks


----------



## CentaurG2 (Jan 9, 2009)

Tool you want is a log peavey or cant hook. Stihl sells some beauties but I bet you could find one a bit cheaper if you look around a bit and are a bit color blind. Modern ones have aluminum handles, older ones are maple. A longer handle will give you more leverage but are more awkward to use and lug around. Have fun.


----------



## ZerCool (Jan 9, 2009)

I limbed and bucked a fairly large evergreen for a friend after a wind storm. After getting all the un-stressed limbs out of the way I ended up using a farm jack (Hi-Lift jack) and chain to take the stress off some of the remaining limbs so I could get the thing on the ground. What a pain... I'd probably try to avoid doing that again if at all possible.


----------



## Metals406 (Jan 9, 2009)

Here's a timberjack I fab'd up last year, with some remnant steel I had. It worked pretty good, and is definitely overbuilt. I lifted a wet, heavy section of Ponderosa pine with it, that was about 15' long, and 24" diam. I would say I use the partial cut, and roll technique more often though.
















The last picture with the 5 gallon can, is for scale.


----------



## MtnHermit (Jan 9, 2009)

Metals406 said:


> Here's a timberjack I fab'd up last year, with some remnant steel I had. It worked pretty good, and is definitely overbuilt.


I can see you're into the animated images.

Is that your work dropping that tree on the white car? Wow!!! Every time I see that I just go amazing.


----------



## Metals406 (Jan 9, 2009)

Nope, that white car thing is from youtube... I just thought the video was funny, and made an animated .gif out'a it. Apparently the guys who made the video, intentionally smashed the car for fun.


----------



## stihl sawing (Jan 9, 2009)

Thought i was seeing things, Kept lookin for the gas can, I knew i seen it before and then it was gone.lol Nice homemade timberjack. It looks a lot stronger than the original.


----------



## Cheese (Jan 9, 2009)

Is that near Horsetooth?

I really like a peavy to cut half way through and roll the stem. I don't see that point of getting it much off the ground, just don't cut dirt.

Good luck.


----------



## Metals406 (Jan 9, 2009)

stihl sawing said:


> Thought i was seeing things, Kept lookin for the gas can, I knew i seen it before and then it was gone.lol Nice homemade timberjack. It looks a lot stronger than the original.



Haha, fooled your eye huh? LOL

Thanks, it is pretty beefy... More than it needs to be... But it will never break! LOL


----------



## dingeryote (Jan 9, 2009)

Hermit,

I Just cut all the limbs free of the trunk and leave one strategicly placed like you figured, and then cut 3/4 through, then roll. On the bigger stuff I'll do the same, and then wrap a chain 1.5 times around then pull a bit with the Truck, quad, winch, whatever, to get a 1/2 roll. On the cheap, it's hard to beat a farm jack or come along for such things.

Timber jacks come in handy for smaller stuff that is too big to plop down into a bucking horse, but a Cant hook will be used more often once you get into the swing of things.

It sounds like you're having fun with the new saw and time in the woods!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


----------



## pioneerguy600 (Jan 9, 2009)

My home made tools for cutting small to medium wood.
PIONEERGUY600


----------



## chugbug (Jan 9, 2009)

Thanks for the pics guys , Iv'e been wanting to either buy one or make one , The problem is the store bought ones are either way to expensive or there junk , I saw a cant hook and a timberjack today at a renco hardware store and both were right around 100.00 each !!!! The problem I had with making one was I didn't know where to position the hook hinge in relation to the point , I think with the pics I can weld one up . !!!!


----------



## Metals406 (Jan 9, 2009)

chugbug said:


> Thanks for the pics guys , Iv'e been wanting to either buy one or make one , The problem is the store bought ones are either way to expensive or there junk , I saw a cant hook and a timberjack today at a renco hardware store and both were right around 100.00 each !!!! The problem I had with making one was I didn't know where to position the hook hinge in relation to the point , I think with the pics I can weld one up . !!!!



I can give you the ratio from mine if you'd like... All I did was print a picture of one, and scale it to what they advertised as the handle length. It only needed minor tweaking to work good.

Let me know.


----------



## Mad Professor (Jan 9, 2009)

If any of the trunk is off the ground before you start place a block every few feet before you buck it and if it settles the blocks will keep it off the ground.

Otherwise the cut almost through and roll technique mentioned above. If possible, do the 1st through cut before you have to roll, on a section not in the dirt.


----------



## chugbug (Jan 9, 2009)

Metals406 , That would be great , just give me a measurement from the hook hinge pin to the end of the handle where you curled the steel around , that should get me really close , thanks


----------



## jra1100 (Jan 9, 2009)

*Pic tomorrow*

I have one of the cheap metal ones you get at HD or some of the other places. It is to dark and cold right now, but I'll take a picture when I unload the truck tomorrow. It was not a big enough "bite" originally, but my buddy who can build anything put a adjustable length bar for the hook so you can hook something a hell of a lot bigger than you can lift. When I tried to lift a really heavy piece of oak and bent the handle he welded on a support for me, and I haven't been able to bend it since. I'll also photo the winch attachment that he made so I can take the hand crane/winch on and off in about 90 seconds. JR


----------



## Metals406 (Jan 9, 2009)

chugbug said:


> Metals406 , That would be great , just give me a measurement from the hook hinge pin to the end of the handle where you curled the steel around , that should get me really close , thanks



Okay, from the center of the hook bolt, to the tip of the hog nose is 7"... And from the center of the hook bolt to the tip of the hook is 11". The hook beak to the hog nose is 3", when it is in the closed position.

The jack stand itself, is 9" tall--overall. The tip of the handle to the hog nose is 5'-1".


----------



## iowa (Jan 9, 2009)

I bought a timberjack from a farm and home store locally and it was all steel. I thought it was going to work great. However after the second time of lifing an 18" dia X 16' log the handle broke. It was a 2 piece handle and the stud that holds it together ripped out. I took measurements of the business end and made myself one at work with a longer one piece handle.

I've since made 3 more for people at work and we've been sneaking them out!!!! LOL  

My brother used it while I cut up several logs last weekend. It works awesome. He would just lift the log and I'd keep cutting away. He was able to lift a 20" Dia x 20' Walnut with it!! But I had to help him push it over. The longer the handle the better for leverage...


----------



## Labman (Jan 9, 2009)

I usually cut off some of the larger limbs, throw rounds under the trunk, and then cut stressed limbs leaving the trunk supported on the rounds. I would rather learn here if that isn't a good technique?


----------



## chugbug (Jan 9, 2009)

Metals406 , great measurements , Now I have another project !!! Thanks


----------



## Metals406 (Jan 10, 2009)

chugbug said:


> Metals406 , great measurements , Now I have another project !!! Thanks



No problem.... Just make sure to post pictures of it when you're done.


----------



## arlen (Jan 10, 2009)

*Logrite*

Logrite makes good cant hooks and peavy hooks.

Some of them are under $100.- and good quality too. 

LogRite.com


David


----------



## IMINTOGTOS (Jan 10, 2009)

*I'm a bit biased on what to use*

View attachment 86236
When it comes to humpin logs around nothing like a big ass John Deere tractor with a loader to horse those logs around. Throw out those cants and get one of these you will never look back. HD


----------



## J.W Younger (Jan 10, 2009)

Labman said:


> I usually cut off some of the larger limbs, throw rounds under the trunk, and then cut stressed limbs leaving the trunk supported on the rounds. I would rather learn here if that isn't a good technique?


yeah ,get as much wood under the trunk as you can then try this.If you can see its gonna pinch if you cut top down and can't get bar under it for an upper cut, bore tru, cut down then cut up. have a good grip and stand to the side in case of kickback when bore cutting. with large stuff this is all that works for me. on second thought maybe this is not a good idea. Just because I do it that way DON'T MAKE IT SMART.


----------



## Nailgunner (Jan 10, 2009)

I'd suggest a 3T telehandler, if you can get one there. Often you can't and the hire is expensive. but when I've got one in it's such fun. Not much they won't push or pull to where it needs to go.


----------



## XJWoody (Jan 10, 2009)

Mad Professor said:


> If any of the trunk is off the ground before you start place a block every few feet before you buck it and if it settles the blocks will keep it off the ground.
> 
> Otherwise the cut almost through and roll technique mentioned above. If possible, do the 1st through cut before you have to roll, on a section not in the dirt.



That's what I try to do, if at all possible. I generally will use some chunks of limb wood, or whatever is handy.

If all else fails, I make some almost-through cuts, then throw on my junkiest chain for the through cuts, at least until the log is chunked down small enough to roll with the peavey.


----------



## MtnHermit (Jan 16, 2009)

I used a hydraulic floor jack to lift a log, worked great. I couldn't roll it as it was wedged between two stumps.


----------



## slowp (Jan 16, 2009)

I carry files, because, there's times when clearing a road, no equipment available, I end up sawing the dirt. The trees are too big for a peavey and sometimes trees are even indented into the road. The saw shop guy sold me the proper chain for the above. He said to go with what they use for the landing saws.  So you might want to dedicate a chain for those times when you can't avoid getting it dirty.

Today I went woodcutting and the snow was holding the tree up off the ground. 

Now I have to go unload and can't get close to the woodpile because of the snow.


----------



## BobL (Jan 16, 2009)

Here's my home made 48" and 60" cant hooks.






And here is my log lifter adapted from a kangaroo jack. It much more suited to milling than bucking.





If I can't roll the log (especially in rocky areas), I use a couple of long hardwood wedges that I drive under the log and cut down to these


----------



## stihl sawing (Jan 16, 2009)

Nice job, What did ya use for teeth on that one.


----------



## jra1100 (Jan 17, 2009)

*My 2 cents*

Here are the tools I use to get logs up. The first is a timber jack that I bought at Fleet Farm for $34 and modified to work better. I added the long arm to be able to get around logs up to 30 or so inches. It is adjustable with the holes in the arm. I added the brace on the handle because if you try to life a 30 inch log the handle will bend. Not any more though!!!

The second is one of those pickup cranes that you can buy on ebay. I got this for about $60, but didn't want it in the pickup bed. One of my good friends is a mechanical genius, and came up with this simple "quick tach" for it. Just slide in the top and bottom pins, and away you go. This is special made for the heavy duty military bumper on this truck, won't work on your average bumper. It will lift up to 1,000 pounds. JR

http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/...86/a=58202793_58202793/otsc=SHR/otsi=SPIClink

http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/...87/a=58202793_58202793/otsc=SHR/otsi=SPIClink

http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/...88/a=58202793_58202793/otsc=SHR/otsi=SPIClink

http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/...89/a=58202793_58202793/otsc=SHR/otsi=SPIClink


----------



## Metals406 (Jan 17, 2009)

jra1100 said:


> Here are the tools I use to get logs up. The first is a timber jack that I bought at Fleet Farm for $34 and modified to work better. I added the long arm to be able to get around logs up to 30 or so inches. It is adjustable with the holes in the arm. I added the brace on the handle because if you try to life a 30 inch log the handle will bend. Not any more though!!!
> 
> The second is one of those pickup cranes that you can buy on ebay. I got this for about $60, but didn't want it in the pickup bed. One of my good friends is a mechanical genius, and came up with this simple "quick tach" for it. Just slide in the top and bottom pins, and away you go. This is special made for the heavy duty military bumper on this truck, won't work on your average bumper. It will lift up to 1,000 pounds. JR
> 
> ...



Looks good! It so true, that necessity is the mother of invention.


----------



## Airecon (Jan 17, 2009)

Here's some plans for a lift I found on the internet. http://bioengr.ag.utk.edu/extension/ExtPubs/Plans/6379.pdf

I found it here http://bioengr.ag.utk.edu/extension/ExtPubs/PlanList97.htm


----------



## zacdog (Oct 22, 2009)

*Thanks*



Airecon said:


> Here's some plans for a lift I found on the internet. http://bioengr.ag.utk.edu/extension/ExtPubs/Plans/6379.pdf
> 
> I found it here http://bioengr.ag.utk.edu/extension/ExtPubs/PlanList97.htm



Thanks Airecon for posting plans. works really well and easy to build.


----------



## StihlyinEly (Oct 22, 2009)

I'm a low tech guy. When I'm felling in the woods or working on deadfall, after I take out all the branches and clear the area, I just start cutting. It's easy after a certain level of experience to tell when a cut will start to bind. I back out and start the next cut down the line until it binds, and then move along. 

Once I get a bunch of cuts nearly done, I'll roll the log with my foot or, if it's big, I'll bend my back and push with my legs, and then finish off the cuts I've got before moving along to the next segment. On the rare occasion (very rare) that I kiss a rock or the ground with my chain, I've always got a backup saw waiting, as well as two backup sharp chains, so I can keep on keepin on.

I have a 4-foot metal prybar I keep in the bed of my pickup for those logs that REALLY need some leverage.


----------

