# Log attachment for wheel loader



## mountainguyed67 (Mar 19, 2020)

I’m looking for something that’ll handle logs better than a general purpose bucket, that’s all I have right now. I’ll be doing three things with them, cleaning up the mess from the bark beetles on my twenty acres of timberland, loading some logs to take to a local guy with a portable sawmill, and processing firewood. The only thing I see locally (online) are these log forks. Approaching the high side of what I’ll pay, but there won’t be any shipping cost. I’ll pick it up. Not sure they’re the right size, there’s no dimensions or application listed. I’ll have to ask. 





With this one the shipping would probably make it the same cost as above. These are just forks with a thumb. Both would require mounts to be fabricated, I haven't found anything correct for my machine. 



These mounts are 4 point like mine.





This is my machine.


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## mountainguyed67 (Mar 19, 2020)

I called on the first one, he said they have a bunch of them. They have some they’ll let go cheaper because they don’t know what they’re for. Since they’re not likely to have one for a Terex, it’s right up my alley. I’ll likely have to modify mounts no matter which one I get. The place is about a half hour drive. I have mount dimensions in a notebook, I can take with me.


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## mountainguyed67 (Mar 19, 2020)

Some of the adds say “Yard type forks”, suggesting there’s a different type used in logging operations. What’s the difference?


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## northmanlogging (Mar 20, 2020)

Well, those top versions are for logs...

Generally around here we use em to unload trucks, but they can be used to load trucks if you have the room. 

couple mills use the forklift type with the "thumb" mostly for unloading hill billy gyppo loads off car trailers, but they do work

as far as fit and function chances are you're on your own, you will need to plumb a line for the thumb as your Tarex likely doesn't have that option, as the forks will need to move like a bucket. 

Anyhow if you need to make new bushings/pins that can get expensive as Frig... so good luck


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## catbuster (Mar 20, 2020)

I think I only see two sticks on the right side of your cab... Which means it didn’t come factory with a spool valve and a line for auxiliary attachments, which you’ll need for a grapple.

Other than that, the first option is better than the thumb style. Neither is going to be as nice as a knuckle boom loader or an excavator with a thumb, but sometimes you gotta work with what ya got. Make sure you have a buddy with a big lathe if you need pins and bushings, otherwise it’ll get expensive to either buy the parts or have them made.


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## mountainguyed67 (Mar 20, 2020)

northmanlogging said:


> you will need to plumb a line for the thumb as your Tarex likely doesn't have that option



It doesn’t, I’ve only seen a couple online that did. Most were a general purpose bucket. If they do have Terex forks in the yard, they’ll be easy to pick out with that color green. But I don’t expect any Terex forks to be there.





northmanlogging said:


> Anyhow if you need to make new bushings/pins that can get expensive as Frig... so good luck



I plan to use the same pins. Do they use a bushing in the attachment, or only in the loader arms? Either way it won’t be a problem, I have a milling machine and have a friend with a lathe. I worked as a machinist for eighteen years.


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## mountainguyed67 (Mar 20, 2020)

catbuster said:


> the first option is better than the thumb style.



Unless I’d also like to be able to handle pallets. It would be a compromise for each application, as the thumb might have to be removed to handle anything tall. At the moment I don’t have a need for regular forks, and could get one if i need it later.


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## northmanlogging (Mar 21, 2020)

mountainguyed67 said:


> It doesn’t, I’ve only seen a couple online that did. Most were a general purpose bucket. If they do have Terex forks in the yard, they’ll be easy to pick out with that color green. But I don’t expect any Terex forks to be there.
> View attachment 808654
> 
> 
> ...


bushings seem to be hit and miss, some have bushings some just assume you'll sell it before it needs line bored...

I am a recovering machinist as well... 25? years, don't miss it much even when its raining and cold... or hot and sunny


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 21, 2020)

You on Pirate 4x4? Seems like there was someone on there fixing up a Terex loader not long ago.

Couple of those log grapples were in the last Ritchie Auction here and they were for dirt cheap. They had been passed up for the last auction or two and I think pretty much had to go, even for free, so they got like $20 each. They were old, 1960s maybe, low pressure cylinders and for big loaders, which no one around here would really use.

I work for the DOT and all the loaders we have (maybe 20 or so) have quick tach plates sort of like a skid steer. Before I started there this fall I didn't know that was a thing for loaders other than the CAT IT series. Even the big 988 CATs and 350 Volvos have the quick tach, and considering the bucket sizes, it's not that big of an attachment plate, maybe 3.5-4ft wide and 2ft tall.

Anyhow point I was making, if you plan to need to swap between bucket and grapple, might be worth coming up with a quick tach setup?? Dunno.? Pulling the pins to swap out is not a quick thing to do.


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## mountainguyed67 (Mar 21, 2020)

northmanlogging said:


> I am a recovering machinist as well... 25? years, don't miss it much even when its raining and cold... or hot and sunny



I worked at a hydraulic cylinder manufacturer for 13 years, bushings is one of the things I made. Actually there are no components of a cylinder I didn’t make. We made a good product, they all had bronze bushings. My Terex steering cylinders have steel bushings, they’re in pretty good shape.


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## mountainguyed67 (Mar 21, 2020)

ChoppyChoppy said:


> You on Pirate 4x4?



Yes, that’s me. I thought I’d get more experience here.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 21, 2020)

mountainguyed67 said:


> Some of the adds say “Yard type forks”, suggesting there’s a different type used in logging operations. What’s the difference?



Dunno, never seen a loader used on a logging job.


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## mountainguyed67 (Mar 21, 2020)

ChoppyChoppy said:


> all the loaders we have (maybe 20 or so) have quick tach plates sort of like a skid steer. Before I started there this fall I didn't know that was a thing for loaders other than the CAT IT series. Even the big 988 CATs and 350 Volvos have the quick tach, and considering the bucket sizes, it's not that big of an attachment plate, maybe 3.5ft wide and 2ft tall.
> 
> Anyhow point I was making, if you plan to need to swap between bucket and grapple, might be worth coming up with a quick tach setup?? Dunno.? Pulling the pins to swap out is not a quick thing to do.



I learned about the quick attach systems a few years ago, in searches. I found this a day or two ago. Someone modified it. I haven’t run equipment much, but trained on it in the Army. I remember it took two people, one working the controls and one pushing on the pin. Otherwise you’d never line it up going back and forth by yourself.


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## mountainguyed67 (Mar 21, 2020)

ChoppyChoppy said:


> Dunno, never seen a loader used on a logging job.



I saw one about three years ago, it was sitting on the side not being used. They were more common when my machine was built. I’m now thinking he meant that‘s what’s used in a yard, and not implying another type was used logging.


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## northmanlogging (Mar 21, 2020)

mountainguyed67 said:


> I worked at a hydraulic cylinder manufacturer for 13 years, bushings is one of the things I made. Actually there are no components of a cylinder I didn’t make. We made a good product, they all had bronze bushings. My Terex steering cylinders has steel bushings, they’re in pretty good shape.


I was mainly job shop, production CNC stuff, but I ran em all,lathes mills manual CNC... no room in it for someone with experience anymore, and I'm tired of playing nanny to a bunch of mouth breathers anyway


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## mountainguyed67 (Mar 21, 2020)

I didn’t work long in shops that had “button pushers”, meaning people who didn’t do their own setups. We would usually stay with one machine, and set up and operate it as needed. I did work for a time as a set up man, going from one machine to the next just doing set ups. Made the day go fast.


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## catbuster (Mar 21, 2020)

Quick tach on an articulated loader is usually a nice thing. Especially on something like a 950 that’s on a utility crew that’s a support machine, it’s super easy to swap between forks and a bucket, and a bedding hopper. All it has to do is move loose materials, pallets and pipe.

It’s interesting to note the bigger machines that are mostly one operation machine (e.g loading shot rock) that plate can get bent and then it’s game over... I know this from experience. Five hours of heating, beating, cursing and eventually torching an almost new, rental (ouch) 963 attachment plate set me back $3000 and a tongue lashing. Admittedly, a 963 can push and break out a lot harder than the equivalent bucket size articulated loader, but still, a 980 can torque the **** out of just about anything.

As far as machining... I’m not a machinist, just a dork with a big manual lathe and a mill used for repairing equipment, but most of the CNC shops I’ve been around seem like sweatshops and don’t pay very well. It’s been a pain to find anyone who can run a manual machine too.


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## northmanlogging (Mar 22, 2020)

tooling, setup, 1st part prove outs, trouble shooting, programmer, mr fix it and keep an eye on the nose pickers was most of my work, usually while running production on at least one other machine too

Twas a time when properly trained machinists could make a damned good living... now days they don't listen and everyone is out to protect their jobs so its knives out most of the time


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## mountainguyed67 (Mar 22, 2020)

Maybe this type could handle logs and brush both?


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## mountainguyed67 (Apr 7, 2020)

ChoppyChoppy said:


> Couple of those log grapples were in the last Ritchie Auction here



Wasilla?


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## mountainguyed67 (Jul 11, 2020)

ChoppyChoppy said:


> Dunno, never seen a loader used on a logging job.



One of four I’ve seen this season, a long, long ways from a sawmill.


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## mountainguyed67 (Jul 11, 2020)

Hauled this up yesterday, now need to plumb another valve for it.


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## rwoods (Jul 11, 2020)

You can keep the grapple - let me have the bobbed Cornbinder. Looks like the cat's meow. Ron


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## mountainguyed67 (Jul 11, 2020)

rwoods said:


> You can keep the grapple - let me have the bobbed Cornbinder. Looks like the cat's meow. Ron



Ha ha. Nope!


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## mountainguyed67 (Sep 20, 2020)

I got one cylinder apart a couple months ago. I couldn’t get one of the mounting pins out of the other cylinder, and it’s still up there.



Look how bad the pitting is around the center hole.



This nut really didn’t want to come off.


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## mountainguyed67 (Sep 20, 2020)

I cleaned up this sealing surface, you can see the pitting above. There’s still a very minor blemish, but I can barely feel it. I think it’ll be okay.


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## northmanlogging (Sep 21, 2020)

the sealing surface will be fine. Looks like them cylinders have been sitting awhile... crunchy...

If you can pull the rod pin then you can rebuild them with the barrel still attached, as long as the inside isn't too nasty (and really... they will put up with a lot of nasty and still work ok)


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## mountainguyed67 (Sep 21, 2020)

northmanlogging said:


> If you can pull the rod pin then you can rebuild them with the barrel still attached, as long as the inside isn't too nasty



Yes. And it’s the lower (barrel) pin, so the open end of the barrel will flop down, making it easier to work on. There was hardly any nastiness in the other cylinder, so it should be the same.

I also measured between the two cylinders, so I can cut a piece of pipe and push from the other cylinder mount with a hydraulic jack. Haven’t looked for pipe yet.

The loader is within the Creek Fire evacuation zone, fire got within 2-3 miles of it. No idea when they’ll let us back up there. Maybe sooner than the public because I’m a property owner, dunno.


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## mountainguyed67 (Sep 21, 2020)

Local logging crew went from logging to helping with the fire, a neighbor’s son is on the crew, but not in the picture.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 15, 2020)

Trying to push the pin out just bowed the tubing, maybe it would have worked with thicker wall tubing.



Removed the guts.



Identifying where the diverter valve will go and how to route hoses.



Located the lines to plumb in a diverter valve, and identified what they are. This one will retract the cylinders.



Found a picture of how Terex routed fluid to the grapple. Mine has the clamp blocks, but not the tubing. I found a local place that makes the tubes that seal around the tube. They have the other type with weld on ends, but don’t weld them for you. A buddy says I should go with all hose because tubes are hard to get right.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 15, 2020)

I brought down the hoses from the grapple to have new ones made.



Gonna get this cleaned up and resealed before next time up. 



Diverter valve. We’re gonna use the dump circuit, pressing the switch will change the lever from dump to clamp/unclamp. 



Same buddy wants me to use a switch similar to this, I think it’s too big.



Old fashioned starter switch should do it.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 15, 2020)

Here’s the space available on the floor. The big hole in the bottom left corner of the throttle side sheet metal is for an air horn switch.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 15, 2020)

Something that came out because of the fire here.


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## northmanlogging (Oct 15, 2020)

Might be able to rig up a thumb switch on the loader control lever? kinda like an excavator thumb control? Or a rocker switch exactly like an excavator control... the handles with switches are fairly cheap online, and just a standard threaded end, so you could fabricobble it onto the existing control. Just my opinion, but having the control down where your feet are seems like a pretty good way to have surprises. (granted I don't have much control over one of my feet, so I get these sorts of surprises often lol)

As for piping vs hoses meh hoses are fine, piping looks better, but if the outfit that claims to work on them can't weld them... I would be highly suspicious....
its not "hard" to route the pipes, its just difficult to make it look good. Hoses will wear out though, eventually... but then you just get new ones made.

On that stubborn pin, sometimes a little pressure (vs like a lot) and a good hard love tap will get em moving, barring that get the acetylene wrench.


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## rwoods (Oct 15, 2020)

Put in a relay and use a button as NM suggested. Having grown up in the 60s, I mounted a Hurst shifter handle with a line lock (roll control) button on my joy stick to work the grapple.

Ron


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 15, 2020)

northmanlogging said:


> Might be able to rig up a thumb switch on the loader control



We considered that. The other guy thought both hands would be busy, both feet wouldn’t. Dunno, I would have to think through it while operating the thing. I wouldn’t think I’d be accidentally stepping on the foot switch, especially with the smaller one. 



northmanlogging said:


> As for piping vs hoses meh hoses are fine, piping looks better, but if the outfit that claims to work on them can't weld them... I would be highly suspicious....
> its not "hard" to route the pipes, its just difficult to make it look good. Hoses will wear out though, eventually... but then you just get new ones made.



Pipes are more durable, can be routed out of the way better, and are more secure with the clamps they have. There are probably clamps available for the hoses too. I would need separate hoses with an elbow fitting in the corners to keep it routed the same. I think I can get them good information to make the pipes right. The place that can’t weld the ends on the pipes is called “Hoses & Fittings”. They’re true to their name. 



northmanlogging said:


> On that stubborn pin, sometimes a little pressure (vs like a lot) and a good hard love tap will get em moving, barring that get the acetylene wrench.



I hit the side while pressure was on the pin, couldn’t hit it the same direction the jack was pushing.


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## northmanlogging (Oct 15, 2020)

at a guess, the loader control is a joystick? back and forth equals up and down, side to side dump or curl bucket? or maybe its two sticks but more or less the same functions?

with the proper solenoid valve, you should be able to have power in power out, so a rocker switch mounted to your current bucket control, then your thumb just holds one side or the other to open or close grapples, one hand could control all three functions, while the other is left to drive the machine. Leaving the feets to control throttle, and brakes (assuming it has brakes lol)

If you just have a diverter valve then mounting it direct to the bucket control would still be more logical and far easier to learn, something about foot controlled functions is always janky especially if your fighting between throttle and brakes already. 

Ya ever run the early Deere hydrostatic dozers, or some early skid steers? foot turn or foot controlled loaders, ******* goofy as frig and a total PITA to operate, especially if you need to crane yer body around to see what your doing... trying to half stand/crouch while peeking over a blade/bucket/grapple while also trying to turn or pour rock with your feet... who ever thought of this method should be sacked, then wrapped in a burlap sack and un taught how to swim.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 16, 2020)

I thought I had a picture, but can’t find it. It’s two levers side by side. Both are push and pull only, no side movement.


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## northmanlogging (Oct 16, 2020)

mountainguyed67 said:


> I thought I had a picture, but can’t find it. It’s two levers side by side. Both are push and pull only, no side movement.



ah, still pretty easy to lop off the bucket control and add a micro switch, then its at yer thumb tip and all the same motion

orrrrrr, get real wild, lop off both levers, put in a U-joint with linkages then fabricobble a joystick so it is all one control... too much work? LOL, thats how the controls on my log loader, and the old backhoe I had were rigged up, works good until the u-joint gets sloppy. If I remember I'll try and get some pictures of the log loader controls, couple few hiem joints and some all thread, be like running a modern machine... but without all the fancy LED lights and buzzers


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 16, 2020)

There’s a few feet of linkage from the levers to the control valve.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 16, 2020)

northmanlogging said:


> Ya ever run the early Deere hydrostatic dozers, or some early skid steers?



No.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 16, 2020)

northmanlogging said:


> a rocker switch mounted to your current bucket control



Is something like that going on with the left lever here?


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## northmanlogging (Oct 16, 2020)

Long linkages make the perfect candidate for a joystick conversion... less hiem joints to order lol, and really less **** to re invent, just a place for the u-joint to mount too, and a couple tabs at 90deg on the joy stick and poof modern controls


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## northmanlogging (Oct 16, 2020)

mountainguyed67 said:


> Is something like that going on with the left lever here?
> View attachment 861630


actually, I think that is... a really old and obsolete version, but its the same idea, just needs wires, and more then likely chucked in the oopsies bin and replaced with one that still works. You can also get them with a "trigger" type control vs rocker switch... Imma do some searching


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## northmanlogging (Oct 16, 2020)

Joystick Handles - GS Global Resources


Reduce Fatigue, Improve Productivity...all with Peace of Mind. GS Global Resources (GSGR) brings many years of design experience and proven product solutions to help you customize the look and feel of your machine.Utilizing our 3D design, we can quickly turn your ideas into reality. Our products...




www.gsglobalresources.com





the sky is literally the limit... Do some shopping on your own though, the above is just to get the gears spinning, a lot of the times these things are stupidly overpriced, like $300-500 for a $7 micro switch and some cheap molded plastic with a regular ass nut held in by friction alone... I suggest Ebay?

Might have to do some minor wiring to get it going proper


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 16, 2020)

You can see him working the controls at 1:06 and 1:18.


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## northmanlogging (Oct 16, 2020)

mountainguyed67 said:


> You can see him working the controls at 1:06 and 1:18.



DETROIT WHAT1!? 
Thems some long ass control handles

Skadil brings us some of the best junk


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 16, 2020)

northmanlogging said:


> Thems some long ass control handles



Looks like the same handles as mine.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 16, 2020)

So stick something like this on the tilt/dump lever?


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## northmanlogging (Oct 16, 2020)

mountainguyed67 said:


> So stick something like this on the tilt/dump lever?
> 
> View attachment 861631


yesh


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 16, 2020)

Another picture of a burned up loader surfaced. This one with log forks.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 16, 2020)

I realized I hadn’t posted the other picture of a burned up loader. I haven’t seen the other, this one I would pass on one of the ways into our place.


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## rwoods (Oct 20, 2020)

mountainguyed67 said:


> Another picture of a burned up loader surfaced. This one with log forks.
> View attachment 861638


 That M35A3 looks like it fared much better than the loader, or did it arrive late?

Below is a picture of what I did to run my grapple. A $16 handle, some relays and a $10 switch. Much cheaper than a design build for my loader. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HURST-T-HA...616083?hash=item2a6b682e13:g:qR8AAMXQstJTl3z5

Ron


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 27, 2020)

I checked my levers. They’re not round, but have a ball on the end, so probably have threads on the end.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 27, 2020)

rwoods said:


> That M35A3 looks like it fared much better than the loader, or did it arrive late?



Dunno. Not even sure where this is.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 27, 2020)

So you found a switch to work with that handle? I have two levers side by side, probably don’t have room for that.


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## rwoods (Oct 27, 2020)

Yes. Just a button momentary switch - had to sort through dozens on the web to get the amperage and weatherproofing I wanted. If you have screw-on knobs, maybe one of these will work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hurst-1536...726256&hash=item46b63ba064:g:APAAAOSw~BhbK~Q9 or https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hurst-Shif...886998&hash=item2872f1c1e0:g:-q4AAOSwpJ5cMqqQ

Ron


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 27, 2020)

Seems pricey, I wonder how it compares to the ones made for loaders.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 27, 2020)

I took the ball off, it’s 5/8-18 threads.


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## rwoods (Oct 27, 2020)

mountainguyed67 said:


> Seems pricey, I wonder how it compares to the ones made for loaders.



That is why I built my own. IIRC the purpose built handles were even more. If you are handy and your knob is a suitable (or you can find or fab one), you can drill and tap it for a switch.

I believe this is the switch I used. The web is full of them. Prices vary a lot.


Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance



Ron


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## rwoods (Oct 27, 2020)

https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/switch/dorman-conduct-tite-push-button-starter-switch/545824_0_0?cmpid=PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:ELC:71700000043798976



Ron


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 28, 2020)

rwoods said:


> IIRC the purpose built handles were even more.



The brand I’ve been looking at doesn’t even offer the correct thread, and says there’s not enough material to make bigger threads.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 28, 2020)

rwoods said:


> maybe one of these will work:



I would have to find a 24 volt switch.


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## rwoods (Oct 28, 2020)

That switch doesn't care whether it gets 12 volts or 24 volts - you just need to do the math on the amperage capacity and the draw. Anyway there are lots of switches and relays available to make you a set-up once you figure the knob or other attachment point and the wiring route.

Ron


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## northmanlogging (Oct 28, 2020)

mountainguyed67 said:


> The brand I’ve been looking at doesn’t even offer the correct thread, and says there’s not enough material to make bigger threads.


bolts are cheap, and welding is easy, find the correct thread lop off the lever, weld on new thread, done. the handles will mostly hide and bird **** welds so it don't even have to look good lol.


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## mountainguyed67 (Nov 3, 2020)

Okay I got a Sure Grip handle, buddy discount. It didn’t have a 5/8-18 option, I drilled out the M12 and tapped it. Now I have what I need. I have a 5/8-18 jam nut ordered.


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## mountainguyed67 (Nov 5, 2020)

Here’s what I’m going to use to control the grapple.


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## northmanlogging (Nov 5, 2020)

perfect!


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## rwoods (Nov 5, 2020)

Let us know when you are up and running. With three switches maybe you can wire one to run a back-scratcher. Ron


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## mountainguyed67 (Nov 8, 2020)

I wouldn’t mind a winch on the back, the other two switches could be winch in/winch out.


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## rwoods (Nov 8, 2020)

Separate button for winch would be nice. My little Deere set-up (whole tractor would fit in your grapple) has a joy stick. Hit the diverter button and side to side works the grapple and front to back works the winch. Got to leave the winch clutched out or be real careful as you can bit by bit wind up the winch and not know it until something gets hurt.
Ron


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## mountainguyed67 (Nov 26, 2020)

Got it on.


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## mountainguyed67 (Nov 26, 2020)

I don’t have much room to put the diverter valve. Instead of mounting it first, I’m going to see how short the hoses can be made. I don’t want to mount it somewhere too close to put hoses to. I took measurements.


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## northmanlogging (Nov 26, 2020)

Quick get it dirty so it doesn't look so out of place lol

You will of course post a video of when you finally get it chooching


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## mountainguyed67 (Dec 3, 2020)

I got a couple methods to plumb the diverter valve with a single hard line, depending on which works best. The rest will be hoses. This will be one of the lines that continues the pressure to where it was supposed to go. If I had centered the diverter valve beteen the two pressure lines, the lengths would have been too short to make hoses. This way the other hose will be 14.5”. The two supply lines to the diverter valve will be a little longer than original. Next trip I plan to mount it just long enough to measure for a mounting bracket and all the hoses that need to be made.


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## mountainguyed67 (Dec 3, 2020)

northmanlogging said:


> Quick get it dirty so it doesn't look so out of place lol
> 
> You will of course post a video of when you finally get it chooching



Ha! Nobody's gonna be around to notice. 

Yes. Looks like it might happen before winter keeps me out.


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## mountainguyed67 (Apr 5, 2021)

mountainguyed67 said:


> Yes. Looks like it might happen before winter keeps me out.



Nope didn’t happen. I went up yesterday to see what winter left me, there are three trees across my main driveway, and one across the lower loop. Only one is any real size, and a big mess. Loader is unscathed.


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## mountainguyed67 (Apr 5, 2021)

Found a video using a log grapple to load/unload a sawmill.


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## mountainguyed67 (Sep 11, 2021)

I see I haven’t kept this thread updated. The diverter valve is plumbed, still need to wire and mount it. That’s in the works.



I don’t plan to leave the rubber part of the hoses in the clamp blocks unprotected, they’re for tubing and might cut the hose.


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## woodsplitta (Sep 15, 2021)

I'm looking at a similar machine that is for sale in my neck of the woods, ad says it's a 63- 64 euclid with a jimmy diesel. Have you had luck finding parts for your machine like brakes and other non common replacement stuff? I'd like to avoid having to buy ransom priced repair parts for it if that's how these are. Thanks and nice work on your up fit.


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## mountainguyed67 (Sep 15, 2021)

I welded on something to mount the diverter valve, still need to drill a hole. I know it’s not a perfect weld, but it‘ll hold.


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## northmanlogging (Sep 15, 2021)

woodsplitta said:


> I'm looking at a similar machine that is for sale in my neck of the woods, ad says it's a 63- 64 euclid with a jimmy diesel. Have you had luck finding parts for your machine like brakes and other non common replacement stuff? I'd like to avoid having to buy ransom priced repair parts for it if that's how these are. Thanks and nice work on your up fit.


GMC Detroit (destroyt) diesels are ridiculously common parts and what not everywhere for them. Anything hydraulic is all LEGO parts (i.e. any hydraulic shop can get parts). Axles can be troublesome if they are weird, but you can probably get parts for them even if they are weird and its likely got a Clark or Allison trans so those are common enough. Brakes and clutch stuff can be relined as needed as long as the metal bits are hosed. everything else can be NAPA sourced, or fabricobbled to make do.


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## mountainguyed67 (Sep 23, 2021)

woodsplitta said:


> Have you had luck finding parts for your machine like brakes and other non common replacement stuff? I'd like to avoid having to buy ransom priced repair parts for it if that's how these are.



I had the brake power clusters (an air cylinder bolted to a master cylinder) rebuilt, the other brake components were available new or rebuilt, brake shoes were good, wheel cylinders are available new https://www.ebay.com/itm/334057898957?epid=74389887&hash=item4dc76703cd:g:1LcAAOSwVZBeVltB. There are 2 different wheel cylinder part numbers, this is one of them. Each wheel has two cylinders. The Terex dealer had about half of the other stuff I asked for. Other places have stuff too, some do have ransom prices. Overall it hasn’t been too bad. As the other guy sad, a lot of this is common stuff.


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## mountainguyed67 (Sep 23, 2021)

Plus I recently got confirmation that the transmission can be rebuilt, a place in Dallas has everything to do it. Exchange price is almost nine thousand, he said about $5,500 if in running condition. Allison doesn’t have the parts anymore, but they do.


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## mountainguyed67 (Sep 23, 2021)

A lot of what I’ve done with the machine is here.








Ed's 77 Terex 72-41


Starts and runs, but has a few issues before it's ready for work. The emergency brake valve next to the seat was leaking and wouldn't build pressure, I...




www.heavyequipmentforums.com


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## woodsplitta (Sep 23, 2021)

Thanks for the info but I missed the machine by a few days. Person that bought it was shipping it to South America according to the seller. Asking price was a grand and seller stated brake and steering work was needed but the machine was operable. Probably just as well, I have too many projects going already.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 20, 2021)

mountainguyed67 said:


> I welded on something to mount the diverter valve, still need to drill a hole. I know it’s not a perfect weld, but it‘ll hold.
> 
> View attachment 929716
> 
> View attachment 929717



Drilled and put a bolt in.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 20, 2021)

I’ve been rounding up the log forks/grapple parts. They were here, but scattered. I just found the cylinder mounting pins today. Only thing left is the bolts to hold them in, and I won’t know what size until I go up there. I’ll take all the bolts with me. I need to go through the cylinders also. I did one already, but don’t know if I got the backup ring in right. I need to check. The other I couldn’t get the pin out of the tube/barrel end of the cylinder, so I dismantled it and brought the internals down. I need to clean those up and install new seals, then wrap and load for the trip up. I have new hoses too, I’ll install all that up there. This has been put on hold while I swapped in a turbo engine with 42 hours. It’s running now, only a few things to take care of and I’ll be using it. Still need to wire the diverter valve and controller. Snow could shut me down at any time, but even if that happens I’ll be ready early next season.


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## mountainguyed67 (Apr 12, 2022)

mountainguyed67 said:


> don’t know if I got the backup ring in right.



Turns out these backup rings are flat on both sides, so I didn't have to take it apart again.


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## mountainguyed67 (Apr 12, 2022)

mountainguyed67 said:


> Still need to wire the diverter valve and controller.



Did that last fall.


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## mountainguyed67 (Apr 12, 2022)

Well, this is about ready to use. We put the one cylinder back together up there, and installed the other one. Then we put on the hoses. Still need to grease the pins, and look at clamping the hoses in place. I remember there being clamps, I’ll look at pictures.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 18, 2022)

Finally had a chance to try out the diverter valve yesterday, it didn’t work. Now I need to troubleshoot that.




It rolled forward when I released the parking brake, too much to pin it. But you can still get an idea of what it looks like.


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## sean donato (Oct 18, 2022)

Pin on buckets/attachments can be a real PIA to get hooked up. Hope you figure out your diverted valve issue. The one I have on the Kubota is pretty straight forward. 2 lines in, 4 out. Push a button and my curl function works the aux port on the loader. Don't know what style you got though.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 18, 2022)

sean donato said:


> Hope you figure out your diverted valve issue.



It’s probably just not getting power, a friend told me how to test it. It’s magnetic, he said remove the magnet part and have someone pull the trigger inside the cab. If it magnetizes, it’s working. We might go up tomorrow and check it out.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 18, 2022)

I didn’t have pins for it either, same friend is offering these. They’re close enough to make them work.


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## sean donato (Oct 18, 2022)

mountainguyed67 said:


> It’s probably just not getting power, a friend told me how to test it. It’s magnetic, he said remove the magnet part and have someone pull the trigger inside the cab. If it magnetizes, it’s working. We might go up tomorrow and check it out.


Yep same way mine is actuated. The connector on the coil on mine has a tattle tail light built into it. Whenever it's energized it has a little red led light that turns on. Handy feature.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 20, 2022)

We tried to magnetize the solenoid by pulling the trigger, nothing. Then we put the wire that’s supposed to bring power to the solenoid directly to the battery 24v, nothing. Then we also put the ground wire to the battery, it magnetized a little. My son said when he really squeezed the alligator clip lead to the ground wire, it magnetized stronger. We put the solenoid back together and tried it with the grapple hoses connected, it still moved the tilt cylinders. I used the really tiny gauge wires that came with the controller, now I’m thinking it needs thicker gauge to make the magnet work.


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## sean donato (Oct 20, 2022)

Do you know the amp rating of the coil? Normally they arnt super high.


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## mountainguyed67 (Oct 20, 2022)

sean donato said:


> Do you know the amp rating of the coil?



No I don’t, I’ll look into it.


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## mountainguyed67 (Nov 4, 2022)

The pin length will reach through, the bushings aren’t worn enough to get the pins through. One or the other will have to be machined, I’m thinking of opening up the bushings.


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## mountainguyed67 (Nov 4, 2022)

I forgot about putting thicker wires to the diverter valve. Someone on heavy equipment forum had this to say. “Be aware that some newer controllers have small wires and the microswitches may not be able to conduct much amperage therefore the controller may have to be wired to a relay which would then activate the coil on the valve.“


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