# Small axe for wedge driving



## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

What axe/hatchet do you guys recommend for wedge driving?


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## stinkbait (Oct 27, 2009)

I use the Fiskars axe. 28" handle.


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## THALL10326 (Oct 27, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> What axe/hatchet do you guys recommend for wedge driving?



Stihl hatchet, got a few of them, not cheap though, $54.00.


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

stinkbait said:


> I use the Fiskars axe. 28" handle.



I'm looking for a small axe, like those hung on your belt.


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

thall10326 said:


> stihl hatchet, got a few of them, not cheap though, $54.00.



Part number?


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## stinkbait (Oct 27, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I'm looking for a small axe, like those hung on your belt.



They make different lengths. The 28" is the largest. The smallest is a 8" handle. Here is a link.
http://www.fiskars.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10101&categoryId=10277


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## THALL10326 (Oct 27, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Part number?



0000-882-1005 Remember now its not a average hatchet, this thing is big..


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## bitzer (Oct 27, 2009)

I'm sure some guys go all out. I know you can get some pricey ones(upwards of $70)and Baileys has some decent looking ones listed for decent prices, but I don't fell professionally so a single bit (Hudson's Bay style I beileve) works for me. Menards like $13. Handle was a bit long to hang on my belt and swing in tight postions so I trimmed it and sanded it to how I like it. Probably get called a wuss, but its only a 3.5lb. Great leverage and works for me. Has gotten me out of a pinched bar and a tight spot more than once! If I had the cash I'd get a prettier one, but shes down and dirty with a hickory handle and it'll drive hard wedges all day.


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

stinkbait said:


> They make different lengths. The 28" is the largest. The smallest is a 8" handle. Here is a link.
> http://www.fiskars.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10101&categoryId=10277



Yeah, I'm looking for something smallish. I kind of like this little feller, especially with the reputation Fiskars has around here. LINK







Edit: I'm not sure 7/8# is going to be heavy enough.


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## nmurph (Oct 27, 2009)

this is what i use. i bought last year and it is still in great shape. i even use it to drive metal wedges occassionally.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=274910-302-1216000&lpage=none


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## stinkbait (Oct 27, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Yeah, I'm looking for something smallish. I kind of like this little feller, especially with the reputation Fiskars has around here. LINK



You cant go wrong with Fiskars. Those handles are tough as nails and the axe holds an edge forever. I love mine.


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

nmurph said:


> this is what i use. i bought last year and it is still in great shape. i even use it to drive metal wedges occassionally.
> http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=274910-302-1216000&lpage=none



That one looks pretty nice.


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## nmurph (Oct 27, 2009)

it was cheap and seems to be tough. i painted it orange and high viz green to make it easier to keep up with in the woods.


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## stipes (Oct 27, 2009)

nmurph said:


> this is what i use. i bought last year and it is still in great shape. i even use it to drive metal wedges occassionally.
> http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=274910-302-1216000&lpage=none



:agree2: For the price and what its gonna be used for pretty good bargine...


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## stihlboy (Oct 27, 2009)

mallet???:??


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## gallegosmike (Oct 27, 2009)

I have the fiskars hatchet your talking about getting , go with the gerber branded 14" handled one. The fiskar 14" hatchet doent come with a sheath, it comes with a cheesy plastic holder. Other then that, it is a great hatchet. I mostly use mine to make kindling for my stove. I think it is a wee bit too light for driving wedges. For that duty, I use my fiskars 23.5 inch chopping axe. I dont hang it off my belt, it would just get hung up on brush.


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## John Ellison (Oct 27, 2009)

Here is my current rig. It is a Truper 3lb. rafting axe w/ 20 in. handle. It just depends on what I'm doing, but if I need to wedge and am going to be moving a lot this is what I wear.


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## bitzer (Oct 27, 2009)

John Ellison said:


> Here is my current rig. It is a Truper 3lb. rafting axe w/ 20 in. handle. It just depends on what I'm doing, but if I need to wedge and am going to be moving a lot this is what I wear.



Thats about what my setup looks like for felling. I have a fiskars splitting ax, but I wouldn't use it for driving wedges. Those are too damn sharp to be wearing on a belt. Just old metal and hickory for hard driving! Occasionally when I miss I get wood splintering off the handle. Not sure what a fiskars handle would do in that situation. Maybe nothing. Not sure.


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

John Ellison said:


> Here is my current rig. It is a Truper 3lb. rafting axe w/ 20 in. handle. It just depends on what I'm doing, but if I need to wedge and am going to be moving a lot this is what I wear.



Do you feel like 3# is a good weight? I'm currently using a little short handled 3# sledge. I don't have an axe so I thought I'd get one to replace the little sledge.


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## Tzed250 (Oct 27, 2009)

If you are going to tap wedges, those hatchets will be fine. If you are going to drive wedges, you need a working axe. Those hatchets are worthless if you need to wedge a back-leaner, or free a pinched saw.


.


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## stipes (Oct 27, 2009)

You wanna go old school Brad...Find you a nice Plumb off fleabay or a yard sell...Them was the finest years ago!!!!


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

stipes said:


> You wanna go old school Brad...Find you a nice Plumb off fleabay or a yard sell...Them was the finest years ago!!!!



I like old school


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## BlackCatBone (Oct 27, 2009)

Tzed250 said:


> If you are going to tap wedges, those hatchets will be fine. If you are going to drive wedges, you need a working axe. Those hatchets are worthless if you need to wedge a back-leaner, or free a pinched saw.
> 
> 
> .



^^^^this. I've got one of the small Fiskars hatchets just for tapping wedges in while bucking a log. It is a great little tool and chops like crazy, but it ain't gonna do you much good in trying to lift wood.


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## bitzer (Oct 27, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Do you feel like 3# is a good weight? I'm currently using a little short handled 3# sledge. I don't have an axe so I thought I'd get one to replace the little sledge.



I know some use 5 pounders and I have one, but they seem to be a little much hangin off the belt. My 3.5lber works great and you need a longer handle for leverage. Mines about 22"


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

bitzercreek1 said:


> I know some use 5 pounders and I have one, but they seem to be a little much hangin off the belt. My 3.5lber works great and you need a longer handle for leverage. Mines about 22"



Makes sense. In other words, it's not a one size fits all kind of thing. Gotcha.


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## John Ellison (Oct 27, 2009)

For myself, I would'nt want any heavier if I had it on my belt continually. Even the three lbs. takes some getting used to. Although it will not do what a 5lb.er/36" will do it is supprising what it will drive. If I know that I will be wedging some big ones away from a fence or ? I would take a bigger axe and not carry it on me. I always have a sledge or bigger axe in the truck but very seldom need it. BUT, here I am never that far from my truck so it is not a worry.

Whatever you get make sure the poll?(I think) has a flat and not rounded surface.


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## nmurph (Oct 27, 2009)

Tzed250 said:


> If you are going to tap wedges, those hatchets will be fine. If you are going to drive wedges, you need a working axe. Those hatchets are worthless if you need to wedge a back-leaner, or free a pinched saw.
> 
> 
> .



guess i didn't know better. i can easily lift 18"ers with a 1.5lb hatchet. i have a 3lb sledge, but it rarely ever gets used. if you are cutting bigger wood, i would want something a little heavier. i would rather use something small and generate a little more swing speed.


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## Tzed250 (Oct 27, 2009)

nmurph said:


> guess i didn't know better. i can easily lift 18"ers with a 1.5lb hatchet. i have a 3lb sledge, but it rarely ever gets used. if you are cutting bigger wood, i would want something a little heavier. i would rather use something small and generate a little more swing speed.



I am talking being able to wedge 24" wood or larger. All forces being equal, more speed is generated by a longer handle. Watch some of the pro falling videos on YouTube, those guys aren't carrying hatchets. 


.


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## demographic (Oct 27, 2009)

I recently bought a Husqvarna hatchet and am very pleased with it so far (I believe the Husky axe is actually made by Hultafors axes of Sweden but don't know for sure so the rabid Stihl versus Husqvarna arguers can chill out).

It came sharp enough to shave hairs off my arm and was only 25 quid, not sure how much that is in green.
Its only about 340mm long at its longest point which is near enough 13 3/8" so its not big or heavy, I wouldn't use it for really beating anything in as that's not what an axe is designed for but for tapping wedges in a bit I can't see it would come to any harm.
Oh and it has a leather cover to keep the edge good, the cover looks like its a one size fits all and could go on a bigger axe but it does the job fine all the same.

Looks like this...


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## John Ellison (Oct 27, 2009)

Just like saws there is no one size fits all for a falling axe. A guy really needs a minimum of two just to get by, barely. Is that AAD?


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## nmurph (Oct 27, 2009)

John Ellison said:


> Just like saws there is no one size fits all for a falling axe. A guy really needs a minimum of two just to get by, barely. Is that AAD?



i guess i better get looking on CL bf the rest of you beat me to the treasure trove of axes that are out there just looking for a new home. i might have to build on to my shop.


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## Ed*L (Oct 27, 2009)

For small stuff I use a mid 60's vintage Stanley hatchet, all metal with a rubber grip. Closest thing I could find is a new Estwing. http://www.estwing.com/product.php?product_id=1600

Ed


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## stipes (Oct 27, 2009)

For me,,,what I use...I swing a splitting axe..I'm not a young man anymore,,and not a big man...I want some leverage in my swing ...At times when I stacked 2 wedges ontop I pulled out the splitting maul...Us small dudes gotta have somekinda help behind us....


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

Ed*L said:


> For small stuff I use a mid 60's vintage Stanley hatchet, all metal with a rubber grip. Closest thing I could find is a new Estwing. http://www.estwing.com/product.php?product_id=1600
> 
> Ed



I love Estwings! That's what my little 3# sledge is, only it has their rubber grip. That axe is purdy!


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## nmurph (Oct 27, 2009)

28 years of competetive racquetball makes driving a wedge like an afternoon on the courts.


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

Here's the little sledge I've been using. I've got the 3# version. It actually works pretty well, but I'd like to have an axe. LINK


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## whitedogone (Oct 27, 2009)

I use one of these for wedge tapping... 

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-45905-Camp-Axe-Sheath/dp/B0006G4P9K/ref=pd_cp_hi_2


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## whitedogone (Oct 27, 2009)

I have one of these my grandpa used: 

http://www.amazon.com/Estwing-E24A-Sportsmans-Hatchet-Handle/dp/B0002JT0BO

It's great for kindling.... it might be a little small for wedge driving.


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## woodshed (Oct 27, 2009)

I've been using the Husqvarna/Wetterling's multipurpose axe and hatchet, sister company to Gransfors Bruks and very high quality, can be ordered through your Husqvarna dealer. Paid around $45-50 a piece.
Scott


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

whitedogone said:


> I have one of these my grandpa used:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Estwing-E24A-Sportsmans-Hatchet-Handle/dp/B0002JT0BO
> 
> It's great for kindling.... it might be a little small for wedge driving.



That one was mentioned above. I love that axe! I may have to go down to Lowes and Sears and see if they have one.


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

I've heard that Fiskars vibrate badly if used to drive steel wedges. Is that a problem driving plastic falling wedges?


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## FATGUY (Oct 27, 2009)

when I split wood and I have to use a metal wedge, I don't use my fiskars for that. I get a weird vibration when hitting metal with it. I don't know if it's the hollow handle or what, but I find it very uncomfortable. Don't know how it drives plastic wedges though.


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## whitedogone (Oct 27, 2009)

For wedge driving I use Grandpa's old KeenKutter...... It looks crappy. But, it's sharp as a razer and stays that way a long time.


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## whitedogone (Oct 27, 2009)

As woodshed said above.... you might try a Gransfors Bruks. Very nice blades.

http://www.gransfors.us/


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## dave k (Oct 27, 2009)

Husky sells one that is made for splitting and driving wedges, not going on your belt as it's like a slender full size axe but for the bigger stuff I find mine one of the best I've had.


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## SWE#Kipp (Oct 27, 2009)

dave k said:


> Husky sells one that is made for splitting and driving wedges, not going on your belt as it's like a slender full size axe but for the bigger stuff I find mine one of the best I've had.



If it's their Husky labeled Wetterling axes i got a couple of those myself and really like them, on one of them i shortened the handle so it fits in the belt with out hitting the legs all the time


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## stinkbait (Oct 27, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I've heard that Fiskars vibrate badly if used to drive steel wedges. Is that a problem driving plastic falling wedges?



I haven't had a problem yet. The biggest stuff that I cut down is only about 24" though.


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

Anyone got a pic of this Husky axe everyone's talking about? How about a PN?


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## gallegosmike (Oct 27, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> That one was mentioned above. I love that axe! I may have to go down to Lowes and Sears and see if they have one.



Sears sells them pretty cheap. But it comes with a giant plastic holder. Ive have not found a decent sheath for it yet...


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## demographic (Oct 27, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Anyone got a pic of this Husky axe everyone's talking about? How about a PN?



They are on HERE, I know thats not much use to you in the States but you can at least see the range and know what the score is with them. 
Scott.


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

Is this it?


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## nikocker (Oct 27, 2009)

*One more vote for the Truper 3 lb.*

I had a chance two weekends ago at my son's house in the U.P. to use my wedges and ax to nudge a tree over.
He wanted to drop a 28" DBH poplar that was obstructing their view of Lake Superior. I was located down below their house about 30 feet on a ridge. Problem was it was a back leaner with some side lead and hung in a 24 DBH cedar. After notching and starting back cutting - two wedges stacked and driven with my Truper 3 lb. Scout axe did the trick. Brought that tree right away from the cedar and fell where it was supposed to. 
I don't think it would have been possible to drive those two stacked wedges with a hachet.
I think I paid under $20 bucks for the axe at Menards.

Al


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## biggenius29 (Oct 27, 2009)

John Ellison said:


> Here is my current rig. It is a Truper 3lb. rafting axe w/ 20 in. handle. It just depends on what I'm doing, but if I need to wedge and am going to be moving a lot this is what I wear.





Looks like a Coon hunters belt.


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## SWE#Kipp (Oct 27, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Is this it?



It's the ones with wooden handles.
this one is nice http://www.chainsawspecialists.co.uk/acatalog/Husqvarna_small_splitting_axe_0.9kg.html

The are hand forged in good steel and very easy to get razor sharp


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## Hddnis (Oct 27, 2009)

The fiskers hatchets and axes are great for bumping small knots and and tapping wedges while bucking, you can also set wedges in a felling cut to hold the cut open when you are not lifting the tree with them.

For most wedging work you need something with more heft to it. 

The other thing I've found is that the fiskers slide off the wedge easier. I've always meant to take a grinder to the face and try to remedy that, but not done it yet.


Mr. HE


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## Mad Professor (Oct 27, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I'm looking for a small axe, like those hung on your belt.




Another option is a hefty cross peen hammer


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## demographic (Oct 27, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Is this it?



No way, the one I have is this...





But that's a hatchet, if you want something to really beat things with you will need something a bit more solid.

I've always heard its bad practice to beat wedges into wood (like when you are splitting rounds) with an axe, for that a mauls the thing.

If your just lightly tapping wedges in whilst felling I can't imagine it would come to any harm.


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

SWE#Kipp said:


> It's the ones with wooden handles.
> this one is nice http://www.chainsawspecialists.co.uk/acatalog/Husqvarna_small_splitting_axe_0.9kg.html
> 
> The are hand forged in good steel and very easy to get razor sharp



Gotcha. Guess I need to learn to read!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Cheese (Oct 27, 2009)

I use a 5 pound head on a 20" rafting handle.

I used to use a 28" Fiskars, broke some handles and was always disappointed at how light it was if I really need to drive something heavy and hard.

Good luck.


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## biggenius29 (Oct 27, 2009)

Get something with a square head. The ax I have has a round head and it beats the heck out of my wedges. Untill I find a good ax I am using a small sledge like you are using.

I have been kind of fond with a small sledge. It has plenty of weight to it, with a short handle.

But when I cut I am just minuits away from my barn, and if my small sledge doesnt work I go for my maul or my sledge.


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## Tzed250 (Oct 27, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Gotcha. Guess I need to learn to read!!!!!!!!!!!!



now your talkin'


.


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

Tzed250 said:


> now your talkin'
> 
> 
> .



You mean readin'? Like it didn't say Husqvarna right above the wooden handled ones:stupid:


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## John Ellison (Oct 27, 2009)

biggenius29 said:


> Looks like a Coon hunters belt.



Hey, you caught that. I had several different ones on it and decided that was most comfy.


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## wvlogger (Oct 27, 2009)

i use a council 3.5# axe with a 20" handle works well for me


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## MCW (Oct 27, 2009)

Tzed250 said:


> If you are going to tap wedges, those hatchets will be fine. If you are going to drive wedges, you need a working axe. Those hatchets are worthless if you need to wedge a back-leaner, or free a pinched saw.
> 
> 
> .




I use a cheap ar*ed little sledge with a fibreglass handle. I did try a smaller hatchet but it didn't have enough grunt to drive wedges into heavier trees/leaners. Bigger trees get the blocksplitter to drive wedges in.
I'm not sure if I want something sharp hanging off my belt as I habit of always sharpening things till you can shave with them.
Probably look around and see a butt cheek laying there...


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## SINGLE-JACK (Oct 27, 2009)

John Ellison said:


> Here is my current rig. It is a Truper 3lb. rafting axe w/ 20 in. handle. It just depends on what I'm doing, but if I need to wedge and am going to be moving a lot this is what I wear.



Thats what I carry on my chaps belt. But, I gotta know, where'd you get that scabbard. 
I had to make my own - 'cause I could NOT find one!!! 
I sent pix to Baileys and others. 
Even asked at several logger suppliers when in Oregon. 
They all said "not here".

Another really good feature to point out about your setup is that straight helve. 
I put a long straight hammer handle on my axe. *
If you're gonna do any heavy wedging, the normal curved axe handle can be a real PITA.*






have some rep, man.


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## John Ellison (Oct 27, 2009)

It came from the other real famous Washington State fallers supply. In Centralia. They also have the straight rafting handles in about any length you want.


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## bitzer (Oct 27, 2009)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> If you're gonna do any heavy wedging, the normal curved axe handle can be a real PITA.[/B]
> QUOTE]
> 
> Thats part of why I cut mine to 22". The 3.5lb. Truper I've got came with a 26 or 28" handle that was curved at the end. Cut it off sanded it up and now I can swing er like a hammer one handed, but still long enough to get two hands on it when needed. It was cheap like $13 at Menards and does the trick. I let it swing off of a metal loop hammer holder on my belt for easy access. It was also gettin tangled in my legs at the original length. Cheap and simple.


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## dancan (Oct 27, 2009)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> Thats what I carry on my chaps belt. But, I gotta know, where'd you get that scabbard.
> I had to make my own - 'cause I could NOT find one!!!
> I sent pix to Baileys and others.
> Even asked at several logger suppliers when in Oregon.
> They all said "not here".



http://www.madsens1.com/PDF/09madsencatxsale.pdf

They're on page 30 .


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## dancan (Oct 27, 2009)

I have an Estwing 26"campers axe (to light and handle bends )and this hatchet
I prefer my 6lb splitting axe for driving wedges and use a felling lever for smaller trees .


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## Nuzzy (Oct 27, 2009)

The only one I've ever needed...

Stihl splitting hatchet

















Don't know how many cords of wood I've split with one while camping over the last 10 years, but it's been a lot. I love it and never go into the woods without it.


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## GASoline71 (Oct 27, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> What axe/hatchet do you guys recommend for wedge driving?



5 lb. single bit axe. Brand don't matter.

Gary


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## Busmech (Oct 27, 2009)

*wedge driver*

Bailey's 2009 master catalog page 35 three pound single bit cut the handle to 20-22 inches. Get the five pounder leave the handle long for the big stuff. Less than $60.00 for both with shipping. These axes are made for driving plastic wedges, other types with the rounded heads and sledges will ruin your wedges faster.


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## pointer (Oct 27, 2009)

*estwimg camp ax*

I have a estwing camp ax I carry it in a carpinters metal hammer loop. works great about 35 bucks


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## Steve NW WI (Oct 27, 2009)

I'm apparently way cheaper than most of you. I converted an old broken handled 8# sledge into a wedge driver simply by painting it a bright shiny color I could find back when dropped in the leaves or snow.

I'm never far from the truck or tractor, so dragging it with me isn't a big deal. I am gonna order a wedge holder to go on the chaps though, have about lost the checkbook a couple times when pulling wedges outta the back jeans pocket.


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

This is amazing! You never know what's going to peak peoples interest. Thanks for all the recommendations guys!


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## Clarkbug (Oct 27, 2009)

FWIW......

I sent an email into the Fiskars people asking them about wedge driving with any of their axes. The response was that they did not recommend using the back of any of their products for striking purposes. 

Its a great product, dont get me wrong, but driving wedges may void the lifetime warranty that they have on the handle.


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## sprink (Oct 27, 2009)

*Fiskars Tip!*

To those of you that have or are thinking of getting a fiskars style axe or hatchet,be carefull with cold weather storage.if stored head down handle up and it fills up with water snow and ice it will freeze and fracture the handle.
Don't ask me how i know!


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

This one's looking pretty good for a small one. Cheap too. LINK


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## Andyshine77 (Oct 27, 2009)

This is a great thread, I've been looking for a little axe just like that.


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## wheelman (Oct 27, 2009)

Does anyone else Who has one of the Fiskars axes think that the orange section of the handle is too slick to get a good grip on. I have one of the smaller axes and find it slippery especially with some types of gloves.


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## whitedogone (Oct 27, 2009)

1 1/4# sure seems small


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## Evan (Oct 27, 2009)

Garry
curved or straight handle. mine was curved id want a straight handle so it didnt feel aqward swinging at wedges


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## blsnelling (Oct 27, 2009)

This one from Lowes looks pretty nice. Hickory handle, almost straight, sheath included, $17. LINK


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## Erick (Oct 28, 2009)

Nuzzy said:


> The only one I've ever needed...
> 
> Stihl splitting hatchet
> 
> ...



:agree2:

Brad, this is where you wanna be, perfect little axe for the job.


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## dingeryote (Oct 28, 2009)

All the good ones are simple copys of the original Marbles Belt axe.

Darn near straight handle and all....
just sayin'.

I run a Truper plastic handle and an old Scout Hatchet 'cuz they havn't been destroyed or lost in the snow yet. 

When I find my old Marbles axe it will get a new handle painted Neon Pink.
I have lost that thing and found it again half a dozen times now....it'll show back up when it's ready.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## Erick (Oct 28, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> This one's looking pretty good for a small one. Cheap too. LINK





blsnelling said:


> This one from Lowes looks pretty nice. Hickory handle, almost straight, sheath included, $17. LINK



You're thinking to small, like some others have said you really want about a 3lb head on a short stick.


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## Evanrude (Oct 28, 2009)

Here is the Fiskars I use. It works great and isnt too bulky to carry around. I use a 6# maul for the big felling jobs. I havent driven a metal headed wedge with it, but I never get vibes from plastic wedges. My main purpose for it is driving wedges while bucking. I love fiskars products as they're indestructible (good thing when your hard on tools like me).


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## Justsaws (Oct 28, 2009)

whitedogone said:


> 1 1/4# sure seems small



Worthless. Might as well pound it in with your boot.


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## Justsaws (Oct 28, 2009)

stihlboy said:


> mallet???:??



Only with a mullet, wife beater and sneakers.

The tool in question needs to be heavy enough to drive a wedge with control using as few swings as possible. Axes for use with one hand and/or two, the handle should be at least as long as your forearm, preferably elbow to finger tips. Shorter length(choking up on a bat) can be used for control but the head should stay heavy. Typically for one handed use the handle needs to fit in palm so that your palm wraps at least 1/2 way around. Tapered handles allow for longer use as they can help compensate for grip fatigue.


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## TotalNZ (Oct 28, 2009)

Doesn't an axe mash the end of your wedges?
Here in NZ tree fallers all use purpose built hammers for driving wedges, mines a 3lb thorace deadblow hammer with steel shot in the head and replacable plastic strike pads. 
I'll take some pics of my felling belt and gear this weekend and post it up.


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## Justsaws (Oct 28, 2009)

TotalNZ said:


> Doesn't an axe mash the end of your wedges?
> Here in NZ tree fallers all use purpose built hammers for driving wedges, mines a 3lb thorace deadblow hammer with steel shot in the head and replacable plastic strike pads.
> I'll take some pics of my felling belt and gear this weekend and post it up.



Some questions for you to help explain some of the responses you might get.
How much $ are your wedges? 
How much $ is the purpose built hammer? I am familiar with those hammers. 
Do you also carry an axe? 

I am sure that some folks here use that type of driver but for many the axe is a multipurpose task master.

The wedges do suffer from the axe impact but not enough from me to give up the additional benifits of having the axe.


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## TotalNZ (Oct 28, 2009)

Justsaws said:


> Some questions for you to help explain some of the responses you might get.
> How much $ are your wedges?
> How much $ is the purpose built hammer? I am familiar with those hammers.
> Do you also carry an axe?
> ...


Yeah, i can understand how an axe could be a handy tool but all i'm doing is felling the tree then moving to the next one so all i need is something to drive the wedges when i need them.
The wedges vary in price, the stihl plastic wedges i reckon are the best and go for around $15NZ. The hammer is a little overpriced in my opinion at around $100NZ but the cheaper ones dont have the steel shot in them.
The steel shot in the head really adds to the blow you can deliver and eliminates jarring.


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## whitedogone (Oct 28, 2009)

This is probably pretty boring for most guys here. But, I found it to be an interesting read.

http://www.gransfors.us/TheAxeBook.pdf


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## akennyd (Oct 28, 2009)

Yet another interesting thread!!!

After reading this and after using my 14" Fiskers hatchet to push over some small pines, I've decided the Fiskers just ain't working out. Head just too light and the small back is beating the heck out of my plastic wedges. Still would like to have one small enough to wear on a belt but a little larger than the fiskers.

My local Home D. says they carry the Estwing Hatchet and a 26" Estwing Campers Axe. I like the idea of being able to use one hand to hit with, the 26" may be a bit much to one hand. 

Kenny
John 3:16


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## slowp (Oct 28, 2009)

John Ellison said:


> Just like saws there is no one size fits all for a falling axe. A guy really needs a minimum of two just to get by, barely. Is that AAD?



Well, I still have the busted aluminum little league bat...:monkey:
I don't fall trees. In my pickup, I have an axe that was used to cut lines and has a nice indentation in the blade. I'll use that to get wedges in.
I added to that a couple weeks ago. Found a roofing? axe while picking up garbage. If I need to chop, I have a pulaski.


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## Evan (Oct 28, 2009)

lowes and homedepots have those dead blow hammer for like 50us bucks . one side usualy has bigger sledge hammer face and the other side is ball peen. the hammers range in size from small to big.

if you have axcess to a MAC or snapon truck youl probly find a large asortment onboard because mechanics like to bang on things


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## Mike PA (Oct 28, 2009)

*No fiskars*

The Fiskars axes aren't made for driving wedges. The backs are too small, not square, and the handle is too exposed for a miss, especially on a steel wedge. If you don't make good contact and slip off the wedge, you could easily remove some of the material holding the head in place.

I use a 4# axe with about a 25" handle that I got at an auction for $0.50. Works ok, but it is a little rough.


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## Bushman_269 (Oct 28, 2009)

I have one of the Lowes fiberglass handled hatchets in my chainsaw box that rides on the 4 wheeler (along with spare chains, etc. for the saws). It comes in handy for tapping (not driving) wedges as it just doesn't have enough heft for heavy driving duty. I always carry a 6 lb. splitting maul that gets to do the heavy lifting when pounding wedges. If you are using wedges to hold the cut open the hatchet will likely be sufficient but if you need to lift a tree get something bigger.


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## blsnelling (Oct 28, 2009)

I bought the little Kobalt this morning. But I'm also going to pick up a 3#er with about a 20" handle as well. I'm going with the two axe plan Maybe three if I pick up a Fiskers Super Splitter.


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## Evan (Oct 28, 2009)

the wife bought me a single bit axe yesterday with curved handle.

i think im going to cut the it shorter getting rid of the curved part and use it it for driveing wedges. i think the head is plenty big for smackn them

Brad
do they have the fiskars super splitter instock in your area. i got on baileys last night going to order it and its on back order


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## blsnelling (Oct 28, 2009)

Evan said:


> Brad
> do they have the fiskars super splitter instock in your area. i got on baileys last night going to order it and its on back order



I haven't looked for it yet. I'll buy a larger axe for wedge driving first. I think I'll order one with a straight rafting handle though. I'm thinking a 20" handle on a 3# head at this point.


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## Evan (Oct 28, 2009)

K

if you can wait till baileys are off back order ill buy pair of them and have one shipped to you. I owe you


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## blsnelling (Oct 28, 2009)

Evan said:


> K
> 
> if you can wait till baileys are off back order ill buy pair of them and have one shipped to you. I owe you



I'm in no rush. But that was a gift BTW, I just completed some serious new mods to my 372 last night


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## Evan (Oct 28, 2009)

kewl

ill put your fiskars on backorder right now so dont buy it.


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## blsnelling (Oct 28, 2009)

Evan said:


> kewl
> 
> ill put your fiskars on backorder right now so dont buy it.



Thanks Evan


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## SINGLE-JACK (Oct 28, 2009)

wheelman said:


> Does anyone else Who has one of the Fiskars axes think that the orange section of the *handle is too slick *to get a good grip on. I have one of the smaller axes and find it slippery especially with some types of gloves.



Here's THE solution for a lot of the slippery tool problems and other problems, too.

If your axe handle is too slick or you cut the curved end off your wedge axe (good tip), then dip the end in some plastic tool handle coating. 

I've also dipped the bottom half of my throw bags in the coating - makes them last A LOT longer.

It's also is a fairly good substitute for whipping the ends of your ropes.


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## blsnelling (Oct 28, 2009)

Sounds like a great idea. Well, except for the last part


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## Evan (Oct 28, 2009)

done

it didnt say anything about being on backorder when i placed the order.

anytime its been drivn me crazy that ive been oweing all this time


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## blsnelling (Oct 28, 2009)

Evan said:


> done
> 
> it didnt say anything about being on backorder when i placed the order.
> 
> anytime its been drivn me crazy that ive been oweing all this time



I told you that was a gift when I gave it to you


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## Evan (Oct 28, 2009)

then the axe is a gift not a re payment


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## blsnelling (Oct 28, 2009)

Evan said:


> then the axe is a gift not a re payment



That'll work


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## John Ellison (Oct 28, 2009)

I think an axe works a lot better than a sledge or any round headed hammer if you need to double up or stack wedges. The wedges need to be inline or one of them is almost sure to break in half if it is hard going. An axe head is the best thing that you can hit one stacked wedge at a time with.


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## bitzer (Oct 28, 2009)

John Ellison said:


> I think an axe works a lot better than a sledge or any round headed hammer if you need to double up or stack wedges. The wedges need to be inline or one of them is almost sure to break in half if it is hard going. An axe head is the best thing that you can hit one stacked wedge at a time with.



I agree. Naturally you have to hit them one at a time in a double stack because you are lifting a lot of wood and its only a little at a time. If you try to hit them both one will break or pop back out at you under that enormous amount of pressure. A couple of weeks ago I had a wedge pop back out when I missed and hit them both. It nearly hit me in the eye and got my cheek. First thing I did was check to make sure I still had all of my teeth. It felt like I got punched good and it left a sore spot and a bruise for a few days.


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## schmuck.k (Oct 28, 2009)

http://www.stihlusa.com/handtools/PA20-Splitting-Hatchet.html this is the stihl i use i love it a bit pricey but good has weight to it


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## 2dogs (Oct 28, 2009)

I have several axes for different purposes. The axe that gets 95% of the use is a 5lb Council from Madsen's. It has a 28" helve and a flat ground poll (The striking face.) My son now carries my old 4lb Council axe. I also have a 3lb Council rafting axe on a 20" helve. The handle is drilled and has a cord for hanging so it can be carried on my climbing belt and used in a tree. It is also nice to drive wedges when the trees are very close to one another such as when a cedar is killing a white fir or lodgepole pine. Sometimes I will have a 6lb. Council axe on a 36" helve in the truck. In the Sierras the ground is covered in granite rocks that just love to eat saw chains. I use the 6lb. axe to drive a wedge deep into a log while I am bucking it so I can easily see the ground.

My wedge belt or back pockets sometimes see a magnesium wege with a handhold or a 15" plastic wedge. Both will drive smaller wedges pretty well and don't weigh much.

My normal wedge belt has a multipocket wedge pouch and a Stihl wedge pouch that normally carries a water bottle. The Stihl pouch has a pocket for first aid supplies. My current firefighting web gear has an aluminum axe scabbard. I also have a saw scabbard designed for firefighting that has a pouch for a 2 1/4lb. boy's axe. I don't like using an axe this light but it is better than nothing. I would like to have one of the USFS modified pulaski wedge pounders.

BTW if I can drop a tree without pounding wedges that is what I will do. Unless I have a leaner then I will always set a wedge by hand just to be safe.

Edited to add: Council tools are American made! They are one of the oldest companies in the USA.


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## OhioGregg (Oct 28, 2009)

This is what I been using to drive or tap wedges with. I got it off Ebay about a year ago. Its one of the more usefull handy things I ever bought. The name on it is Evensville Defender. Has a 20" handle, and weighs about 4 1/2 lbs. Handle is long enough to get both hands on, I love it.







Gregg,


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## blsnelling (Oct 28, 2009)

OhioGregg said:


> This is what I been using to drive or tap wedges with. I got it off Ebay about a year ago. Its one of the more usefull handy things I ever bought. The name on it is Evensville Defender. Has a 20" handle, and weighs about 4 1/2 lbs. Handle is long enough to get both hands on, I love it.
> 
> 
> Gregg,



That's a nice looking axe Gregg.


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## 1947wdx (Oct 28, 2009)

Late as usual...

Northern has a couple similar to what others have noted:

*$10 1.5 lb* http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200316257_200316257

*$17 2.5 lb* http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200325121_200325121


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## Jon E (Oct 28, 2009)

I ain't in your camp at all, folks. I have a Scout axe, a Fiskars axe, and a couple vintage Hudson Bay axes 3-4 lb each, but I always reach for a 4 lb dead blow hammer. I keep the hammer and the Fiskars in a 2 gallon plastic bucket with my wedges, and carry it around with me, the bucket gets placed within reach of the tree I'm dropping, and when I have to drive a wedge, you bet I can give it a whuppin' with that bright orange plastic hammer. I don't go for carrying all that crap around on my belt either, I like to be unencumbered and flexible when I'm cutting and the axe and wedge pouch on the belt just gets me hung up. Never liked to wear a carpenter's belt either when I was doing construction for a living, maybe that's why I'm neither a carpenter nor a professional faller.


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## SINGLE-JACK (Oct 28, 2009)

Jon E said:


> I ain't in your camp at all, folks. I have a Scout axe, a Fiskars axe, and a couple vintage Hudson Bay axes 3-4 lb each, but I always reach for a 4 lb dead blow hammer. I keep the *hammer and the Fiskars in a 2 gallon plastic bucket with my wedges*, and carry it around with me, the bucket gets placed within reach of the tree I'm dropping, and when I have to drive a wedge, you bet I can give it a whuppin' with that bright orange plastic hammer. I don't go for carrying all that crap around on my belt either, I like to be unencumbered and flexible when I'm *cutting and the axe and wedge pouch on the belt just gets me hung up.* Never liked to wear a carpenter's belt either when I was doing construction for a living, maybe that's why I'm neither a carpenter nor a professional faller.


:agree2: :agree2: :agree2: 
Wow, what a dose of reality. I guess I've been over-thinking all this. Feels like I've just been dope-slapped with a 4lb dead blow hammer. I really like your simplistic approach - makes a lot of sense! I'll be taking my scabbard and wedge pouch off the belt tonight and into a bucket. And, I won't need the suspenders anymore, either. 

But, I still like my carpenter's belt though - gotta draw the line somewhere.
I can put the suspenders on it.

Any way, excellent post, have some rep.


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## SINGLE-JACK (Nov 2, 2009)

*Revision A*



Jon E said:


> ...
> I keep the hammer and the Fiskars in a 2 gallon plastic bucket with my wedges, and carry it around with me, the *bucket *gets placed within reach of the tree I'm dropping
> ...





SINGLE-JACK said:


> ...
> I really like your simplistic approach - makes a lot of sense! I'll be taking my scabbard and wedge pouch off the belt tonight and into a *bucket*.
> ...



Used your bucket idea - I loved the simplicity of the concept and found one simple 'refinement' to pass along:

Saturday, while taking down the last section of a 'pieced-out' 24 DBH oak -set the bucket within reach - used the hammer & wedges - all went nicely. However, half-way through, it started to rain ... POUR. 

Couldn't stop 'til the stem was down safely - retrieved the bucket with an inch or more of wet sawdust and water. No biggie - but couldn't leave it that way - ya know, wet sawdust don't pour - had to wipe everything = PITA!!!

So, now, everything's in a *small milk crate *- holds everthing except sawdust & rain.


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## 1947wdx (Nov 2, 2009)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> Used your bucket idea - I loved the simplicity of the concept and found one simple 'refinement' to pass along:
> ...
> Couldn't stop 'til the stem was down safely - retrieved the bucket with an inch or more of wet sawdust and water. No biggie - but couldn't leave it that way - ya know, wet sawdust don't pour - had to wipe everything = PITA!!!
> 
> So, now, everything's in a *small milk crate *- holds everthing except sawdust & rain.



I use a bucket for most of my tools along with a "Bucket Buddy". The extra pockets come in quite handy, but it doesn't work so well (as you mentioned) when it comes time to clean it out. (Plus you wouldn't want to carry all that out to the tree you are felling anyway...) 

The milk crate is a good refinement.


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## porch monkey (Nov 2, 2009)

and tie a piece of rope between the handles of your milkcrate so you can carry it with one hand without spilling crap. I like to use 1" cotton rope because its easier on my dainty little hands. (Maybe I should put hand lotion in my milk crate.lol)


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## StihlyinEly (Nov 2, 2009)

Jon E said:


> I ain't in your camp at all, folks. I have a Scout axe, a Fiskars axe, and a couple vintage Hudson Bay axes 3-4 lb each, but I always reach for a 4 lb dead blow hammer. I keep the hammer and the Fiskars in a 2 gallon plastic bucket with my wedges, and carry it around with me, the bucket gets placed within reach of the tree I'm dropping, and when I have to drive a wedge, you bet I can give it a whuppin' with that bright orange plastic hammer. I don't go for carrying all that crap around on my belt either, I like to be unencumbered and flexible when I'm cutting and the axe and wedge pouch on the belt just gets me hung up.



:agree2: Insert roar of applause and cheers from the crowd here! 

I never figured out why people want to use an ax/hatchet to do the work of a hammer.

The bucket I use for this doesn't hold water because I drilled a bunch of small holes in the bottom of it. Who says a hole in a bucket is a BAD thing? I like a bucket over a milk crate because the handle makes it easier to carry.


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## Jon E (Nov 2, 2009)

Yeah, that's the ticket - holes in the bucket. I have never considered that because I try not to cut wood when it's raining. But a few small holes will solve that problem.


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## Metals406 (Nov 2, 2009)

Brad, this little bugger might be right up your alley??


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## blsnelling (Nov 2, 2009)

Metals406 said:


> Brad, this little bugger might be right up your alley??



Sweet. You've got to love Estwing tools


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## Metals406 (Nov 2, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Sweet. You've got to love Estwing tools



Yup, I've always liked their tools. . . My old man always had one of their straight claw hammers around. Concrete contractors like them for stripping forms.

That fireside friend is neat. . . The cheapest I've found online with shipping to me is here: http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(gyjhtm3q1y50uq45anmfwdbz)/viewCart.aspx?strAction=ADDITEMS


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## jburlingham (Nov 2, 2009)

porch monkey said:


> and tie a piece of rope between the handles of your milkcrate so you can carry it with one hand without spilling crap. I like to use 1" cotton rope because its easier on my dainty little hands. (Maybe I should put hand lotion in my milk crate.lol)



Buffalo Bill says.... "It put the lotion in the crate" LOL


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## wigglesworth (Nov 2, 2009)

Metals406 said:


> Brad, this little bugger might be right up your alley??



OK....sign me up....I gotta have one.


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## blsnelling (Nov 2, 2009)

wigglesworth said:


> OK....sign me up....I gotta have one.



Do I see 4# on the head? That seems aweful heavy for such a short handle. 14" length and 2 3/8" cutting edge.


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## Metals406 (Nov 2, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Do I see 4# on the head? That seems aweful heavy for such a short handle. 14" length and 2 3/8" cutting edge.



Weight is your friend Marry. 


:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


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## blsnelling (Nov 2, 2009)

Metals406 said:


> Weight is your friend Marry.
> 
> 
> :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:



Too much weight on a short handle will aggrivate my elbow tendonitis.


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## wigglesworth (Nov 2, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Too much weight on a short handle will aggrivate my elbow tendonitis.



I feel ya. My back aint what it used to be. But what is more work? Swingin a 4 pounder 6 times or a 2 pounder 12 times?


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## 2dogs (Nov 2, 2009)

Jon E said:


> I ain't in your camp at all, folks. I have a Scout axe, a Fiskars axe, and a couple vintage Hudson Bay axes 3-4 lb each, but I always reach for a 4 lb dead blow hammer. I keep the hammer and the Fiskars in a 2 gallon plastic bucket with my wedges, and carry it around with me, the bucket gets placed within reach of the tree I'm dropping, and when I have to drive a wedge, you bet I can give it a whuppin' with that bright orange plastic hammer. I don't go for carrying all that crap around on my belt either, I like to be unencumbered and flexible when I'm cutting and the axe and wedge pouch on the belt just gets me hung up. Never liked to wear a carpenter's belt either when I was doing construction for a living, maybe that's why I'm neither a carpenter nor a professional faller.



What do you do when your trees are half a mile from the truck. For firewood cutting close to the truck I think your system would work fine.


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## StihlyinEly (Nov 2, 2009)

2dogs said:


> What do you do when your trees are half a mile from the truck. For firewood cutting close to the truck I think your system would work fine.



I don't know about Jon. What I do when I'm cutting on foot that far from the truck is throw that stuff in a backpack. But I don't cut that far away very often like some of you guys do. My cutting has been firewood and tree service work, which makes hauling gear very convenient.


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## bitzer (Nov 2, 2009)

StihlyinEly said:


> :agree2: Insert roar of applause and cheers from the crowd here!
> 
> I never figured out why people want to use an ax/hatchet to do the work of a hammer.
> 
> The bucket I use for this doesn't hold water because I drilled a bunch of small holes in the bottom of it. Who says a hole in a bucket is a BAD thing? I like a bucket over a milk crate because the handle makes it easier to carry.



The ax advantage is when you pinch your bar and you are miles from another saw. It will take some work, but chopping it out with an ax is a lot easier that with a hammer! Its saved my arse more than once! That and when your doubling up on wedges. You gotta hit them one at a time and with a hammer it can be tough. If you hit em both at once they fly back out at you. I nearly lost some teeth when I missed and hit them both with my ax a few weeks ago!


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## SawTroll (Nov 2, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Yeah, I'm looking for something smallish. I kind of like this little feller, especially with the reputation Fiskars has around here. LINK
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I don't think the smaller Fiskars ones are suited for hammer/sledge use, only the #2400/Super splitter.


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## StihlyinEly (Nov 2, 2009)

bitzercreek1 said:


> The ax advantage is when you pinch your bar and you are miles from another saw. It will take some work, but chopping it out with an ax is a lot easier that with a hammer! Its saved my arse more than once! That and when your doubling up on wedges. You gotta hit them one at a time and with a hammer it can be tough. If you hit em both at once they fly back out at you. I nearly lost some teeth when I missed and hit them both with my ax a few weeks ago!



Thanks for the clarification.


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## woodshed (Nov 2, 2009)

Not sure what these retail for but here's the above mentioned stihl on ebay:







http://cgi.ebay.com/STIHL-chainsaw-...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ca6fb2b70

Scott


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## blsnelling (Nov 2, 2009)

woodshed said:


> Not sure what these retail for but here's the above mentioned stihl on ebay:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I do like that a lot! If the "bump" on the handle bugs you, it could always be dressed off and dipped in Plasticote.


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## PB (Nov 2, 2009)

SawTroll said:


> I don't think the smaller Fiskars ones are suited for hammer/sledge use, only the #2400/Super splitter.



Yep, I have personally seen that exact model get broken driving a wedge. It was a splitting wedge, but now it doesn't have a handle. I guess a plastic wedge would be more forgiving, but it break quite easily. 

Brad if this is strictly for driving wedges, go to the hardware store and buy a 3.5 axe with a wooden handle (cheaper the better) and cut the handle off to make it more comfortable to carry and swing. A hatchet is nice, but not so great for driving wedges. Most 3.5# axes have a 28-32" handle, cut that back to 20-24" and you have a solid wedge axe. A 2.5# axe head might be better but they aren't as easy to find. 

You are over thinking this.


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## blsnelling (Nov 2, 2009)

PlantBiologist said:


> Brad if this is strictly for driving wedges, go to the hardware store and buy a 3.5 axe with a wooden handle (cheaper the better) and cut the handle off to make it more comfortable to carry and swing. A hatchet is nice, but not so great for driving wedges. Most 3.5# axes have a 28-32" handle, cut that back to 20-24" and you have a solid wedge axe. A 2.5# axe head might be better but they aren't as easy to find.
> 
> *You are over thinking this.*



That's the fun part I just priced the PA 20 and it lists for $57.44. My cost is $49.95. That's mighty pricey for an axe. I suppose you're right PB, lol.


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## StihlyinEly (Nov 2, 2009)

PlantBiologist said:


> if this is strictly for driving wedges, go to the hardware store and buy a 3.5 axe with a wooden handle (cheaper the better) and cut the handle off to make it more comfortable to carry and swing. A hatchet is nice, but not so great for driving wedges. Most 3.5# axes have a 28-32" handle, cut that back to 20-24" and you have a solid wedge axe. A 2.5# axe head might be better but they aren't as easy to find.
> 
> You are over thinking this.



You have to love it when the cheap way is every bit as good as the expensive way. Rep coming your way, PB. 

Don't forget garage/rummage sales. There's many a $5 ax with lots of life left in it been bought and sold in folks' yards.


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## SINGLE-JACK (Nov 2, 2009)

PlantBiologist said:


> Yep, I have personally seen that exact model get broken driving a wedge. It was a splitting wedge, but now it doesn't have a handle. I guess a plastic wedge would be more forgiving, but it break quite easily.
> 
> Brad if this is strictly for driving wedges, go to the hardware store and buy a 3.5 axe with a wooden handle (cheaper the better) and cut the handle off to make it more comfortable to carry and swing. A hatchet is nice, but not so great for driving wedges. Most 3.5# axes have a 28-32" handle, cut that back to 20-24" and you have a solid wedge axe. *A 2.5# axe head might be better but they aren't as easy to find*.
> 
> You are over thinking this.



Ace Hardware $12.75 Collins Boy's Axe 28" 
I'll stop by tonight and confirm (maybe buy).


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## blsnelling (Nov 2, 2009)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> Ace Hardware $12.75 Collins Boy's Axe 28"
> I'll stop by tonight and confirm (maybe buy).



That would be an awesome deal. Cutting off the handle 8" should make it straight.


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## breymeyerfam (Nov 2, 2009)

5 bucks. china special, 23" labeled as kenowa tools. decent little ax.


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## Jon E (Nov 2, 2009)

2dogs said:


> What do you do when your trees are half a mile from the truck. For firewood cutting close to the truck I think your system would work fine.



I'm never more than a couple hundred feet from whatever vehicle brought me into the woods. The bucket works fine. If I was half a mile in, I'd be using a pack of some sort, but firewood cutting's all I do and I wouldn't be cutting trees down if I were half a mile into the woods anyway.


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## StihlyinEly (Nov 2, 2009)

breymeyerfam said:


> 5 bucks. china special, 23" labeled as kenowa tools. decent little ax.



Got a retailer? I searched for Kenowa axes with nothing coming up.


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## breymeyerfam (Nov 2, 2009)

identical to mine, but differently branded.
http://www.bosstoolsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2822


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## SINGLE-JACK (Nov 2, 2009)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> Ace Hardware $12.75 Collins Boy's Axe 28"
> I'll stop by tonight and confirm (maybe buy).



The price was actually $19.49 - bought it any way.

The helve appeared to be tight grain hickory
It can be cut to 20" and be straight enough.
The head is 6" long
The bit is 3-3/4"
The poll is 1"x2-3/8"

Liked the look of that "kenowa" better - the "bosstoolsupply" version is discontinued

So, the Collins will do - after all, only beating plastic wedges any way.


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## redprospector (Nov 2, 2009)

Just my opinion, but if you're going to "drive" wedges use an axe. I carry a 3 1/2 pound axe with the 36" handle cut down to about 26" when the trees are small, but a lot of times wish I had carried the 5 pound axe. You're not going to "drive" a wedge with most of the little peckers I've seen here. You'll use a lot less energy using a real axe than a hatchet, including packing it around. As for carrying a longer handle, you can use a loop on your belt and let it hang by your legs, or get an aluminum sheath that will put the handle up your back (my preference).
That bucket thing wouldn't work for me, sounds pretty inefficient. I guess it would be ok for gathering firewood on the weekends, but still not very efficient.
Of course I'm one of those guy's that carry an axe, a tape, a wedge pouch with 4 wedges, extra gas & oil, a canteen, a bar wrench, keel (lumber crayon), and some first aid crap on his belt all the time. So take it for what it's worth.

Andy


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## Metals406 (Nov 2, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Too much weight on a short handle will aggrivate my elbow tendonitis.



Just giving ya a hard time there Brad.


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## blsnelling (Nov 2, 2009)

Metals406 said:


> Just giving ya a hard time there Brad.



It's all good


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## litefoot (Nov 3, 2009)

Tzed250 said:


> If you are going to tap wedges, those hatchets will be fine. If you are going to drive wedges, you need a working axe. Those hatchets are worthless if you need to wedge a back-leaner, or free a pinched saw.
> 
> 
> .



+1. Many times you need a longer handle and more mass applied to drive in a wedge. I got my saw pinched last week and was glad to have a long-handled sledge available. I hatchet on the side with something more substantial in the truck would be ideal.


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## SINGLE-JACK (Nov 3, 2009)

Tzed250 said:


> If you are going to tap wedges, those hatchets will be fine. If you are going to drive wedges, you need a working axe. Those hatchets are worthless if you need to wedge a back-leaner, or *free a pinched saw*.
> 
> 
> .





litefoot said:


> +1. Many times you need a longer handle and more mass applied to drive in a wedge. I *got my saw pinched *last week and was glad to have a long-handled sledge available. I hatchet on the side with something more substantial in the truck would be ideal.



Keeping a big axe in the truck for heavy work is always a good idea. But, if a saw gets seriously pinched and can't be wedged out, *2dogs *gave me some advice I now use. 

I've always kept a spare chain handy (truck or atv) but recently added a spare bar, too. If a pinched saw needs to be 'cut' out - unbolt the pinched bar/chain - bolt on the spares = free the pinched bar easier, faster and safer than chopping it out.


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## Tzed250 (Nov 3, 2009)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> Keeping a big axe in the truck for heavy work is always a good idea. But, if a saw gets seriously pinched and can't be wedged out, *2dogs *gave me some advice I now use.
> 
> I've always kept a spare chain handy (truck or atv) but recently added a spare bar, too. If a pinched saw needs to be 'cut' out - unbolt the pinched bar/chain - bolt on the spares = free the pinched bar easier, faster and safer than chopping it out.






That only works with an inboard clutch.




.


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## bitzer (Nov 3, 2009)

Tzed250 said:


> That only works with an inboard clutch.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



It will work if you are lucky on an outboard. I messed some of the threads a little on the bolts on one, but I got it off. Otherwise I could see it not happening most of the time.


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## blsnelling (Nov 3, 2009)

Can you cut the end off a fiberglass handle? I found a nice 3 1/2# axe at TSC for $20, but I'd like to trim the handle down. I didn't know if that was a problem with the core fiberglass rod? LINK


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## SawTroll (Nov 3, 2009)

bitzercreek1 said:


> It will work if you are lucky on an outboard. I messed some of the threads a little on the bolts on one, but I got it off. Otherwise I could see it not happening most of the time.



It would be a lot more work, usually!

Anyway, forcing a wedge into the kerf may work better than anything else!


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## StihlyinEly (Nov 3, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Can you cut the end off a fiberglass handle? I found a nice 3 1/2# axe at TSC for $20, but I'd like to trim the handle down. I didn't know if that was a problem with the core fiberglass rod? LINK



I think you will be fine if you cut slowly and with a fine saw so you don't get tearout of the fiberglass. I'd feel OK using the fine-tooth carbide blade on my DeWalt power mitre saw as long as I allowed it to reach peak rev and made my way through the handle slowly.

Then I'd be sure to seal the cut handle by dipping it in that liquid rubber stuff or applying fiberglass resin.


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## SawTroll (Nov 3, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Can you cut the end off a fiberglass handle? I found a nice 3 1/2# axe at TSC for $20, but I'd like to trim the handle down. I didn't know if that was a problem with the core fiberglass rod? LINK



I can't see any problem with it, but why not go with the hickory option that is also listed.

I have bad experience with cheap (non-Fiskars) fiberglass handles!


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## blsnelling (Nov 3, 2009)

StihlyinEly said:


> I think you will be fine if you cut slowly and with a fine saw so you don't get tearout of the fiberglass. I'd feel OK using the fine-tooth carbide blade on my DeWalt power mitre saw as long as I allowed it to reach peak rev and made my way through the handle slowly.
> 
> Then I'd be sure to seal the cut handle by dipping it in that liquid rubber stuff or applying fiberglass resin.



I'm not concerned with making the actual cut. I didn't know if the entire handle was solid, or if the core "floated" in the middle, and cutting it off might leave the core hanging loose.


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## BigJ (Nov 3, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Can you cut the end off a fiberglass handle? I found a nice 3 1/2# axe at TSC for $20, but I'd like to trim the handle down. I didn't know if that was a problem with the core fiberglass rod? LINK



Get a wood handle. Fiberglass ones scare the bejeesus out of me: they're very bouncy and I've had a few shatter on me..just a bad scene all around. Learn how to hang the head, etc..sharpening is an artform as well..

I've been eyeing up the Snow and Nealley offerings on Bailey's for my next order.  I have several more axes than I have saws...probably a dozen axes.

Good read here:
http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/fspubs/99232823/toc.htm

Usage:


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## blsnelling (Nov 3, 2009)

BigJ said:


> I've been eyeing up the Snow and Nealley offerings on Bailey's for my next order.  I have several more axes than I have saws...probably a dozen axes.



Are those really high quality axes? I am a sucker for quality you know. I was actually just noticing them myself.


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## bitzer (Nov 3, 2009)

Menards has Trupers 3.5lb. and 5lb. Hickory handles. You can cut the curved part off and have about 20 or so inches on the 3.5lb straight. I have both and they work great. I've beat the hell out of them with no problems. The 3.5lb is like $13. 5lb. is less than $20. Cheap and simple. I wouldn't trust fiberglass.


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## BigJ (Nov 4, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Are those really high quality axes? I am a sucker for quality you know. I was actually just noticing them myself.



Yes. Not quite a Gransfors, but they're still hand forged like the Iltis Oxheads, Black Kings, and some of the Wetterlings. Not really axes that I'd personally use to pound wedges, but hey, you've already got the CAD...AAD will be a little less hard on the pocketbook! My favorite is the Black King, but it's a personal preference kind of thing. 

I use a cheapo big box 3 1/2# x 30" handle for throwing around in the bush...after a few hours with a file & with the head pinned, of course. 30" is a nice length as it's closer to a baseball bat for two handed swingin...

I gotta admit that I always wondered why in the world one would use such a short little hitter for pounding wedges when watching your videos!!


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## Justsaws (Nov 4, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Are those really high quality axes? I am a sucker for quality you know. I was actually just noticing them myself.



They seem to be a well built axe. I have had one for a couple of years and it has held up well. Takes and holds a good edge. The handle while vanished was smoother than most and well shape from a quality piece of wood.


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## SINGLE-JACK (Nov 4, 2009)

BigJ said:


> ...
> 
> I gotta admit that I always wondered *why in the world one would use such a short little hitter for pounding wedges* when watching your videos!!



I've wondered the same thing but from a different view point. Why not use a standard 'long' axe for wedging? It would be interesting to hear some opinions. 

*This seems like a good thread discuss weight and length options for a wedging axe in different situations.*

*So, here's some questions:*

A carry wedge axe is a compromise between a 'light' one handed hatchet & 'heavy' two handed axe?

A 2-1/2lb 20" seems to be the most popular carry wedge axe? Yes? No?

What's the best weight for one AND two handed use?
- light for easy carry & control,
- heavy for power.

What's the best length for one AND two handed use?
- short for one handed use & control,
- long for two handed use & power

Most wedging seems to be light work:
- to stabilize a stem while finishing the felling cuts?
- to control a light leaner?
- or to avoid (free) a pinched saw?

Hard wedging a heavy leaner requires a long heavy axe?


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## bitzer (Nov 4, 2009)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> I've wondered the same thing but from a different view point. Why not use a standard 'long' axe for wedging? It would be interesting to hear some opinions.
> 
> *This seems like a good thread discuss weight and length options for a wedging axe in different situations.*
> 
> ...



I have not seen too many 2.5lbers. I would say 3.5lb. is most popular. Mine came with a 28" handle, but it was curved for the last 6" or so and in tight spots hard to swing. It also would tangle in my legs when hanging off the belt. I cut it down to around 20" or so. I can swing it well with one hand and still get two hands on it for hard wedging. The shorter handle is ideal for manuverability and the weight of the head does most of the work. I also have a 5lber for real heavy stuff, but I rarely ever need it. The handle is original not sure how long. Probably in the 36" range. 

I had a really ugly boxelder I had to fell yesterday. It was only maybe 50' tall but the layout of the tree was just awful. It had two main trunks that split from the main stem about 5 feet up (The main stem leaned East). Each of those main trunks had another split about 5' up from there. (They were too high to fell individually) One trunk leaned hard to the West with each split pointing NW and SW both of which were nearly parallel to the ground. The other trunk leaned hard SE with one split S and the other split NE. The Eastern side was tangled into nearby trees and the most favorable direction I could find was west up slope and in the direction of the rest of my lay. I've had these split down the middle when trying to fall them and they are very sketchy. The tree was about 28" on the stump. I put a humboldt face a little less than halfway in and cut the bottom of the diagonal off about 4" toward the center so when the face closed it would break the hinge faster, because it would have less to close on. Then I bore cut it just behind the hinge and to the back of the tree. I left about 2" of hinge and 2 or 3" of back strap (section at the back of the tree supporting the weight). Then I drove in a wedge on each side of my bore cut until I couldn't pound them anymore. This was definetly hard pounding and my 3.5lber worked fine for it. I stood about as far away as I could as I cut the back strap, because of the tree being tangled in the rest of the canopy (some dead) and the fact that it could split down the middle and fall toward me. I cut the strap and she went over like a ton of sh$t. The ax and wedges had done their job and I got to go home in one piece. A long handle would not have worked because of my close proximity to other trees, but the extra weight may have been useful on a 5lber. 

I apologize for this crazy long explaination, but that is one of many ways to use a wedge other than the obvious. For the most part wedging can be light work and technique and the saw take care of the rest, but there are times when wedging can be a nightmare. Especially if your cuts aren't lined up, branches are tangled in other trees, etc. I would say I mostly use a wedge as insurance, but they are invaluable in a tough situation that you didn't realize they would be.


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## blsnelling (Nov 4, 2009)

I believe I'm going to go with this one from Baileys. LINK. The handle looks like a nice length (I won't be carrying it on a belt), and the head weight seems right for me. Plus the price is right at $23, especially considering my total order will be over $200 and I'll get free shipping.


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## PB (Nov 4, 2009)

BigJ said:


> I've been eyeing up the Snow and Nealley offerings on Bailey's for my next order.  I have several more axes than I have saws...probably a dozen axes.



I love the Snow and Nealley axes, just got a double bit 2 weeks ago. Quality axe heads with beautiful handles. 

I would look other places for a better price on the axes. Bailey's is about $10 more for axes than I have seen, but I am just across the river from the factory.


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## KMB (Nov 4, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I believe I'm going to go with this one from Baileys. LINK. The handle looks like a nice length (I won't be carrying it on a belt), and the head weight seems right for me. Plus the price is right at $23, especially considering my total order will be over $200 and I'll get free shipping.



I'm going to order one of their handles for an old 5lb. single bit axe head I have. I just have to finish getting the broken handle out of it...quite the chore.

Kevin


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## bitzer (Nov 4, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I believe I'm going to go with this one from Baileys. LINK. The handle looks like a nice length (I won't be carrying it on a belt), and the head weight seems right for me. Plus the price is right at $23, especially considering my total order will be over $200 and I'll get free shipping.



That one looks like it will do it and you could carry it on a belt if you wanted. If you've ever done any carpentry with a belt on you'll want it on a belt. My ax feels at home on my right side after having my 28oz. Estwing framing hammer swinging there off of my carpenters belt. Easy access so your not fumbling around. I used to put a few wedges in my back pocket and carry the ax. After a short while I thought nuts to that. I need a pouch and belt for this stuff. I keep a scrench and carb screwdiver in there too. Get a wedge pouch while your at it. They are cheap!


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## John Ellison (Nov 4, 2009)

KMB said:


> I'm going to order one of their handles for an old 5lb. single bit axe head I have. I just have to finish getting the broken handle out of it...quite the chore.
> 
> Kevin



Cut it off close to the head and then drill a bunch of holes in it. They usually come out pretty easy then.


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## bjorn773 (Nov 4, 2009)

I carry the estwing with me whenever I go out. 4 pounds is more than enough to drive anything I've ever needed. Granted, I'm a firewood cutter, not a pro. They make great stuff, I've got their 3 & 5 pound sledges at work, a framing hammer at home and the camp axe. Plus it's made in my home town... gotta support my local economy. 

http://www.estwing.com/product.php?product_id=1400


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## fredmc (Nov 4, 2009)

3# sledge or a 3# single bit axe with a flat back and a 20" handle, It depends on the trees and how far I'm away from the landing. If I'm in deep woods I'll always take the axe.


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## J.W Younger (Nov 5, 2009)

well , its not high tech but I use a single bit axe I found with a piece of broken mall handle cut about 14" for a handle.
cheap stuff I never lose.


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## slowp (Nov 5, 2009)

This year, the trend was for the fallers to have painted their axe handles a flourescent orange or pink. I don't know whether it is now a requirement, but I noticed that guys cutting for the bigger outfit did it. It would make the axes easier to see in the brush.


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## KMB (Nov 5, 2009)

John Ellison said:


> Cut it off close to the head and then drill a bunch of holes in it. They usually come out pretty easy then.



I've done both (cut close to head and drilled holes), but the wedge is metal and the small holes around it don't seem to be doing much. I did stick the head in a vise and have pounded on what's left of the handle and the wedge and wood have moved out quite a bit. The wood around the wedge is VERY hard. When I get back to working on it, I'll put it back in the vise and try a large punch.

Kevin


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## Taxmantoo (Nov 5, 2009)

Tzed250 said:


> That only works with an inboard clutch.




...unless you've got a chain breaker in the truck. 

For the nuts who hang out here, it's easier just to have a spare saw (or five or ten) on hand.


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## kevin j (Nov 5, 2009)

Q The wood around the wedge is VERY hard. When I get back to working on it, I'll put it back in the vise and try a large punch. Q

Did a lot of hammer handles in the past. After drilling lots of holes to relieve the radial pressure the slug usually comes out pretty easy. If not, then the punches. Rather than a large punch, try a smaller one, maybe 1/8 inch diameter. A large punch tries to push it all at once. Sometimes a small one works better but just pushing out small sections ot the slug at a time.
Rotozip and dremel did not work very well for me.


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## KMB (Nov 5, 2009)

kevin j said:


> Q The wood around the wedge is VERY hard. When I get back to working on it, I'll put it back in the vise and try a large punch. Q
> 
> Did a lot of hammer handles in the past. After drilling lots of holes to relieve the radial pressure the slug usually comes out pretty easy. If not, then the punches. Rather than a large punch, try a smaller one, maybe 1/8 inch diameter. A large punch tries to push it all at once. Sometimes a small one works better but just pushing out small sections ot the slug at a time.
> Rotozip and dremel did not work very well for me.



Thanks for the advice.

Kevin


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## andrew346 (Nov 8, 2009)

I know its not really what the OP specified in what you were looking for, as you wouldnt very well carry my axe on your belt but i am that proud of it i couldnt help but chime in on this topic. 

I got a really nice old axe from Ebay a while ago. What atracted me to it was that is was made in 1952, left over surplus from the old Green goddess fire engines that used to be in the uk. The pic below isnt actually of mine but its the same axe. you can see the head is covered in a thick green paint that took some effort to remove but the axe was almost gleaming underneath. Not bad for an axe stamped with 1952!! It feels great in the hand and i think that such a product was better made in that era from anything youd pick up now save perhaps the gransfors and suchlike.

Ill try and get a pic of my axe when i have the time. 

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114148&stc=1&d=1257701566


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## SINGLE-JACK (Nov 22, 2009)

*WEDGE AXE, etc.*


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## dave k (Nov 24, 2009)

Im not saying I would knock wedges in with this but thought it deserved to get it's pic posted !


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## SINGLE-JACK (Nov 24, 2009)

dave k said:


> Im not saying I would knock wedges in with this but thought *it deserved to get it's pic posted *!



That is a NICE looking axe. And it did, in fact, deserve having is pic posted. 
But, don't shame it with wedge *duty *(pun intended), lol


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## blsnelling (Nov 24, 2009)

dave k said:


> Im not saying I would knock wedges in with this but thought it deserved to get it's pic posted !



Is that one of their racing axes?


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## dave k (Nov 24, 2009)

Yes it is, like a razor ! and plenty of weight to it.


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## matt9923 (Nov 24, 2009)

I'm in the market for a good wedge axe, mine broke last week and i tossed it in the woods....


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## ckliff (Nov 24, 2009)

Enjoyed the discussion on pounding wedges. If I ever have the $$$ to spend on good-lookin' axes & sledges I will know what to look for. In the meantime, I will stay with my 3 pounder. The original handle broke, so fashioned my own from the wood pile.


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## matt9923 (Nov 24, 2009)

ckliff said:


> Enjoyed the discussion on pounding wedges. If I ever have the $$$ to spend on good-lookin' axes & sledges I will know what to look for. In the meantime, I will stay with my 3 pounder. The original handle broke, so fashioned my own from the wood pile.



I found a picture of ya,


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## 056 kid (Nov 24, 2009)

I spotted a 2 & 1/4 i believe it was camping ax just like the one my pops had that we could not find a duplicate of over at Bi Mart for under 20 bucks.

i think im gonna get one or two here soon, just soon as i stop spending 40 dollars a week on # 4 & 5 blue foxes, 

spinner fishing is a very expensive sport!! O well, Im alot cooler than thoes obnoxious, lazy, skill-less bobber fisherman:greenchainsaw: though i will tolerate some bottom drifting...


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## Fastcast (Nov 30, 2009)

Any info or opinions on these Swiss mil. axes? 

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/new-swiss-military-reserve-axe.aspx?a=484007


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## 2dogs (Nov 30, 2009)

Fastcast said:


> Any info or opinions on these Swiss mil. axes?
> 
> http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/new-swiss-military-reserve-axe.aspx?a=484007



I bought one of these for a friend of mine who is Swiss. The poll is not the right shape for pounding wedges. The quality is mediocre.


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## Fastcast (Nov 30, 2009)

2dogs said:


> I bought one of these for a friend of mine who is Swiss. The poll is not the right shape for pounding wedges. The quality is mediocre.



Thanks 2D....I wasn't looking at it just for pounding wedges but this is the kind of info I was hoping to hear.


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