# Yukon Husky-eagle 1 heat exchanger replacement



## Boogieman142 (Aug 3, 2009)

Well, CrappieKeith may appreciate this or not cause it shows people how to replace it. I have a yukon and this one bears the "Husky" badge. I just figured that i'd put up some step by step instructions on removing the heat exchanger and replacing it with a new one. This furnace was purchased new in 1980 and has been a good furnace. The heat exchanger was replaced in 1990 so this is not its first time apart, now its time for another one. I guess they changed the material they are made out of, now it is stainless steel and is thicker but maybee Keith can chime in on that for sure. This furnace also needs the firebox welded as it has developed some cracks in it. I know that I should be replacing the firebox or the whole unit because of this but I just can't right now ($$). So I have a new heat exchanger to put in and some cracks to weld. This is just going to be an as I get time to do it deal b/c of the 3 kids so don't expect this thread to progress too fast. If you try this, turn the breaker that serves the unit off as you need to disconnect some wiring. This whole project can be done in the winter time in an emergency basis but now I can take my time....maybee. And now we start with the pics. 

This first pic is just with the pipes removed from the outlet box.







This one the outlet door is removed as well as the filter door. The filter has been removed and discarded as it has needed it. 






The lower door has been removed, just a few screws on the sides.






The trays that holds the filter in will need to be removed as well to remove the hot/cold furnace divider(I just call it that, no idea as to what the real name is). All that these do is just sit in a slot, just hit them up and they pop out. This is the part that holds them.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 3, 2009)

Now the shroud that surrounds the heat exchanger needs to be removed. This shroud tucks under the cold air plenum as well, so the screws that hold that need to be removed. It will go around the hinge ok, it will just need a bit of help.






Now this is where the turning off the breaker part comes in. You need to remove the wires from the blower motor but mark them so they go back on the same way later on when you re-install them. its just a matter of removing the bx-cable clamp and remove the cover from the motor and unplug the 2 wires. Once this is unhooked on mine i can just remove the motor but if yours has never been apart then there might be some nuts on the bottom of the blower mounts that go on studs. Mine are gone now as they broke the last time the exchanger was changed and were never repaired. There are rubber mounts under them that may be a good idea to replace while you are at it. 






Now in the above pic you can see that whip for the blower motor just dangling there, that needs to be removed in order to get the cold/hot divider out. In order for this to happen the box on the front of the furnace needs to be removed and the wiring undone, again mark or draw a picture where these wires go for installation later. You need to spin off the bx-cable retainer or you cannot remove the divider. Once it is spun off, you can remove the whip.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 3, 2009)

When you get that wire out of the way you can attack the hot/cold divider. There will be 2 L-brackets on the bottom that secure the bottom part of it, remove these. On the top there will be 5 screws into some parts that go in-between the heat exchanger baffles, remove all 5 of those. On the top of those parts that go between the baffles there are 5 more screws you need to remove those also. You can reach your hand in from above the outlet box and under the cold air plenum and reach them(atleast I can, there are some people bigger than me, not many tho).
Remove all of those in-between baffle parts. The hot/cold divider is put in there in a similar way as the trays that hold the filter are. Start at the top of each side and work your way down until it is free then it will take some jimmying and re-positioning to get it out but i'm sure you will figure it out, just try not to bend it too much. once that is out, you are left with a view of the burner(some are bolted on and some are welded on, mines welded. The bolt-on ones are for where space is a limiting factor when bringing the furnace into your home), the firebox and all of the screws that hold the heat exchanger on the bottom and sides.






Now remember those 5 screws that you had to reach your arm thru the end under the plenum to get to, the part that they screwed into needs to be removed to gain access to the top bolts to the heat exchanger. There were 2 screws between the hot and cold air plenums that held mine in, yours may be a bit different. once that is removed you will get a view something like this. 






Now to save yourself some frustration in the future, the plates in the firebox should be removed. Opem the firedoor and there will be 2 plates above the side the burner chamber is on(some furnaces are left flue, some are right flue, mine is left flue so the plates are on the left side, for a right flue they would be on the right side) the plates are used to make the furnace run more efficient by giving off more heat to the firebox top instead of it just oing out the chimney(atleast I think so) These plates just set in there similar to the way the hot/cold divider was and the filter trays and probably won't just come out due to warpage/rust. If you hit them up they will loosen up enough to come out. these are what they look like once they are removed. You can see a pic of what holds them in below this pic. of the plates






And this in the view inside the firebox when the plates are removed. Now you can actually see the heat exchanger. This makes it easier when you go to remove the bolts holding the heat exchanger and re-install it for lining up purposes and to make sure the gasket stays put.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 3, 2009)

That's as far as I made it tonight so i'm gong to stop there, night all.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 3, 2009)

Hey Boggieman....great post....awesome pics.....thanks!

When you think about having an almost 30 year old furnace that can be taken apart and rebuilt...what a statement that it.
Yes, the secondary is now 304 grade stainless instead of plain hot rolled steel.
The fireboxes are also thicker from 14 to 10 gauge.

The beauty of this is that you are doing the work yourself.It's not rocket science and we are here to aide in the tech end of things should they be needed.

With a furnace this old I would have reccomended to replace the firebox too, but if you think you can patch it up .....I can't stop you.
We have all of the parts for your furnace that are supposed to be in there as per U.L.
Old Huskies never die...they just get reincarnated.


Good job!


----------



## laynes69 (Aug 3, 2009)

I hope you have some carbon monoxide detectors in the house. Just incase you miss any cracks in the firebox.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 3, 2009)

laynes69 said:


> I hope you have some carbon monoxide detectors in the house. Just incase you miss any cracks in the firebox.



That's exactly why I would have reccomended a new firebox.
If the last one held up this long I doubt he'd need another after a full rebuild.
Really....that old firebox is plum worn out. Chances are that it fails in the dead of winter.....not a good time.
There is a 20% discount he can get off of a new firebox with all new brick,grates and doors plus new smoke baffles,jet air tube and brick retainers which are stainless too.

It is his choice though Layne ,but we would hate to hear of a fatal issues later down the road.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 3, 2009)

Yea, but 1700 plus shipping on it would do me in, I however am very crafty at welding so thats the next option. If I had the $$, i wouldn't even be putting a heat exchanger in, i'd replace the whole thing with a polar. These furnaces aren't too bad to work on, this will be the seccond time i've had it apart to change the heat exchanger.


----------



## laynes69 (Aug 3, 2009)

Thats what I would have recommended is a replacement, but you said you were low in funds, which is understandable. Sometimes you just do with what you have.


----------



## mtfallsmikey (Aug 3, 2009)

Get youself a 6 lb. tub of Pyroseal, or equiv. refractory cement...I have only had to do one HX on a Yukon, not that bad as long as you have plenty of room on all 4 sides....how does the blast tube on the oil burner look?


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 3, 2009)

The burner tube is ok, as long as you keep a good liner in it they last forever. Besides, I never use the oil anyway. You can see the cracks in the pic of the burner tube. They were brazed a while ago but with the heat and expansion it cracked, the brazing wasn't done by me but it will be welded good this time. I plan on drilling the ends of the crack to prevent it from spreading welding the crack shut and then welding a plate over that to keep the heat concentrated on that 1 spot and hoping for the best. Eveantually the entire thing will be replaced but that will hafta do for now. Thats what is holding it together now, refractory cement, time for a new one.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 3, 2009)

I could get you a firebox and you reuse bricks,grates and doors for $1321.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 3, 2009)

what about shipping? The bricks and shaker grates all are fine, just the box itself is cracked, so I will hafta check and see if i could do that.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 3, 2009)

I could get it out there for about 300$
I'd shop the freight for you...maybe get it down to around 200$
You've been a customer for many decades and I'd want to do the best I colud for you so you'd not have to chance any safety issue.


----------



## laynes69 (Aug 3, 2009)

I thought the fireboxes were 7 gauge on all of the units.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 4, 2009)

The Eagles all have 10 gauge fireboxes.
This old furnace we are looking at has a 14 gauge box.
It also had a 20 warrenty when it was produced.I'd say it out lived that period.
Here's a tidbit.....when tested the firebox walls never got over 930 degrees.
It takes heats a lot higher to warp steels.
In the early 90's we decided to beef up the fireboxes to 10 gauge on those multifuels.
In the late 90's we decided to go to stainless(304) on the secondary heat exchangers plus in 84 we added the clean out door.

Since that furnace is built modulary ,it can be rebuilt. Any part of a 35 year old Husky can be replaced with the new parts we make today.
If the customer wants ...he could switch it over to gas from oil too.2 years ago we went to backing them up for 30 years.

No manufacture makes a true wood/coal/gas furnace today. They all need 2 flues and the gas will not fire the wood like in that Husky or Polar.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 4, 2009)

This ones oil already.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 5, 2009)

Well, made it down to work on it some more. 

The next thing I did was take all of the bolts out that secure the heat exchanger to the firebox, but make sure that you put something under it such as what i did or it may fall and break the burner.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 5, 2009)

Now at this point I have a better view of the cracks so here is the firebox with the heat exchanger removed.






And the pics of the cracks that need to be welded.


























Now I am at the point where I can start to prepare the firebox for all of the repairing.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 5, 2009)

So Now I can get the metal ready to be repaired.

So its a bit easier I removed the fire door to get inside the firebox for a little easier access.






And now This is me getting this 30 year old furnace ready for a new firebox(keith, need that firebox)

I removed the door, the secondary burn tubes regulator and the burner gun. When you unhook your wiring to the gun make sure you mark it all if not already done or draw a picture. 

gun removed





Shield removed





afterburner regulator





with it all and ash-pan removed





thats as far as I made it tonight, night night


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 5, 2009)

Looks like you got it totally torn down.
I'm thinking your gonna need a few gaskets...plus a few bricks from the looks of it.

I sure wish you'd toss in a new fire box.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 5, 2009)

I am going to replace the firebox, thats why its being tore down this far, just need to come up with the funds for it. I just need the firebox for now, I can get the bricks before winter.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 6, 2009)

I see.......
with the new firebox you'll get your gasket kit,smoke baffles,air tube assembly,brick retainers ,pot & liner.
Any bricks ,grates and doors that are still good you'll reuse,of coarse I'm thinking you know that there is a firebox complete that has the bricks ,grates and doors..


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 6, 2009)

Yea, I know there is a complete one but we have the shaker grates and the firedoor was replaced a couple years ago so its still in good shape.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 6, 2009)

Ok....just checking,not trying to assume was all.
I wish you'd make this post(copy and paist) on our forum....good job of showing how these super old furnace can be rebuilt...thanks.
Keith


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 7, 2009)

I will eveantually, If you want to add anything to it feel free to.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 10, 2009)

Keith, would you have financing available for that firebox, I'd like to get the hot rod as well?


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 10, 2009)

Not in NY...sorry.
The company we use only deals in about 12 states.NY is not one of them for some reason.


----------



## ericjeeper (Aug 10, 2009)

*That Brass is going to be a pain*

Not much of a chance of welding that old box back up since someone has already contaminated it with brass.. I am glad to hear you are going to replace it.. Try your local bank for a personal loan if need be.. put up a vehicle for collateral if you have a decent one with a clear title..It will be worth the hassle to get this fixed correctly..


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 11, 2009)

Yea, I have a few that could be used for collateral. It'll be a few weeks but i should be able to figure something out.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 14, 2009)

Called to order the firebox and keith is on vacation. Oh well, as long as he's done vacation by winter. You'll be getting a call monday from me.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 17, 2009)

I'm back,however it may still take a few days for the vocal cords to heal up.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 17, 2009)

ordered the firebox, keith was awesome to deal with.....


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 18, 2009)

Thanks Justin....got the message from yesterday too.We are all good on this end for the 20th.
You must know you are part of our family...like it or not!
I was impressed you could understand me with my voice almost gonzo from yelling over loud cars all weekend.
Customer service is very important to us.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 18, 2009)

CrappieKeith said:


> Thanks Justin....got the message from yesterday too.We are all good on this end for the 20th.
> You must know you are part of our family...like it or not!
> I was impressed you could understand me with my voice almost gonzo from yelling over loud cars all weekend.
> Customer service is very important to us.



I deal with customers quite oftean so i can understand almost everyone. ok, I was hoping you would get the message. Well, you certinaly are excellent with customer service.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 21, 2009)

Hello, sp was it good for today? Just wondering if you have an approx time for the delivery?


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 21, 2009)

I just got in 15 minutes ago.
I'll generate the order and put it out for shipping. If there are any issues...we will call.
Expect either R & L or Conway to be calling you late next week for delivery notification.
If you need help...please call me toll free @ 800-358-0060.
CK


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 21, 2009)

done deal....the truck will be picking it up in a few hours.
Thanks!!!!!!


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 21, 2009)

great then, i'll get the old one out.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 24, 2009)

You should be getting a call from the trucker 24 hours prior to it getting there.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 26, 2009)

Just got the old one out, have pics but tomorrow is my daughters first day of school so gotta get to bed.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 26, 2009)

Thanks again for making this thread.
Showing that you can take these apart and being able to rebuild them rebuild them after so many decades is not something that is normal in the industry. Normally you'd have to buy a brand new furnace.

"Old Husky's never die....they just get reincarnated"


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 26, 2009)

Well, the firebox arrived today to my surprise. I'm a little upset about it. Its absolutely nothing that Yukon-eagle did or the Alpha-American company. I'm upset with the freight service. They never called me so I was not ready for it to come. I did not take the truck to work because they didn't call therefore my brand-new firebox is sitting at the shop right now for everyone to poke at. I left early today because its my daughters first day at school and it was delivered when i wasn't there so I haven't seen it yet. Again its nothing that Keith or the company did, just the freight service. Now onto finishing my potato salad then i'll post pics.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 27, 2009)

As far as the "Old huskies never die" thing, I can vouch for that. I'm finished making my potato salad now and the pics are uploadeed so here goes. 

In order to continue with getting the firebox out of the furnace(can't really call it a furnace now tho) The paneling needs to be removed. I do not have pics of each panel coming off as they all come apart at once(atleast mine did) The plenum needs to be lifted to get the paneling off(only about an inch) to allow you to get the paneling out from under it. So however your plenums attach needs to be undone, mine were pop-riveted so I drilled them all out. There are 2 screws between the plenums on a panel that need to be removed before anything. I removed the side panel next, I think 6 screws hold it if my memory is right. the one that covers the side of the firebox. Once this one was removed all of the rest of them fell off. I left the rear panel there to help support the weight of the plenums but you can remove it as well as long as you secure the plenums. Here are a few different angles of the paneling removed.






















and a section of paneling 






So now all of the paneling is removed, now to drag the firebox out, HOLY*&$%^##%^&%$#@!$^(&%#%^$##%^&$# is it ever heavy, now onto operation lighten firebox. 

First thing I did was remove the shaker grates, most of these furnaces just had a stationary set of grates unless it was used for coal. In my opinion the shaker grates are awesome for shaking the ash thru to the pan as well. All of these furnaces should have been sold with shaker grates. the shaker grates just lift up and slide out the door, they have to be removed in a pair as there is a bar that hooks then together. I had to turn mine diagonal to get them thru, careful as they are heavy.

The grates next to the ash pan






Once the grates are out you can remove the frame for the grates, in theory it just lifts out and pivots at the center, mine needed a little help to do this action but they do come out. Be careful as I think they are only cast-iron and will break easy(mine didn't)especially if hit with a hammer, just use a little finess and a pry-bar and they will come out. 

The frame(2 pieces stacked on top of each other.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 27, 2009)

So now those are out, time for the firebrick. Most of mine was junk but the top 4 bricks that are 3 decades old(older than me) were intact so i twisted off the retainer studs and carefully removed them and wrapped them in some newspaper for future use(doubt it but I'm a packrat and the bricks aren't cheap) For all of you wondering the bricks said "OLIVE HILL" on them. As for the lower row of bricks, they were all broken so remember when you used the finess to get the frame out, throw that away and get a hammer. I just finished breaking them out. I can say this tho, those bricks are much tougher than I thought, It took some hard blows to break them. 

The bricks(whats left of them anyway)






and the now-empty firebox






I think thats as much weight that can be removed from it so now for the brute strength part. Go to the store and get some beer(if you haven't already) and call up some buddys and tell them to come over for a few beers. When they arrive have a couple with them and be like, hey I wanna show you something and take them to see the furnace. Explain to them how much of a pain it is and so on and so on, just get them worked up a bit. Then proceed to try and move it and be like man this is heavy and pretend that you are strugling with it, then say "hey man can you grab that side and get another guy to grab it, and another. Then once everyone has it be like "Lets see if we can get it over there" and pick it up and carry it out. Well, that process worked for me anyway. Just remember when you re-install the new firebox that you find a different group of people, as these ones are now smarter and know what you will try and do, atleast thats what i'm going to try.

Thats as far as I've made it so far until I get the firebox that came in wednesday from the shop to my home.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 27, 2009)

Your doing a fine job.
Imagine the thousands of labor dollars you're not spending.

Sorry about the freight carrier. From time to time I'll hear about the 24 hour call thing.I wish I had more control over them.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 27, 2009)

I guess I forgot to add that there are 2 screws in the back of the firebox that need to be removed in order to move the firebox. I found them in my picture folder. 

There are access holes there to get to them as well, someone was smart when they designed this one. 











Now the old firebox wasn't all that heavy atleast for me but its 14awg, new one is 10awg, should be heavier.

The firebox moved out of the way











Now we are left with one sad and lonely furnace, if you can still call it a furnace.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 27, 2009)

Now for some pictures of the new parts

The shaker grates 











And the boxes of new firebrick






New smoke baffles






I do not have any pics of the new firebox yet as it is not at my house yet but I will shortly


----------



## mtfallsmikey (Aug 28, 2009)

Looks like some new insulation is needed on the the jacket. I have used duct wrap in the past...


----------



## CrappieKeith (Aug 28, 2009)

mtfallsmikey said:


> Looks like some new insulation is needed on the the jacket. I have used duct wrap in the past...



Actually the cold air side of the furnace is not insulated.Only the hot side is.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Aug 30, 2009)

I wire brushed it all to loosen any rust. I vacuumes it and applied POR or Rust encapsulator, whatever you want to call it to the furnace tonight.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 5, 2009)

Some pics of the new firebox


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 5, 2009)

Some of the new Heat Exchanger


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 7, 2009)

Well, had a chance tonight to do some work on the furnace. First thing I had to do was get the firebox to the furnace. I won't tell the steps in doing this as all houses are different, your on your own on this one. Mine was a straight shot down the steps and in the basement it went.

Here is the firebox set in place and bolted in. My daughter wanted to get in these pics too, hope you don't mind.











Now to save weight in moving the firebox from truck to ground and to furnace I removed everything from inside the firebox. This is after everything in installed. NOTE: don't forget to re-install the smoke baffles or you will burn more wood to get the same heat. 

The brick and grates installed





Top row of bricks





An arm, don't forget to tighten down brick retainers as the bricks aren't cheap(atleast the good ones aren't)






I slid the ash pan in and it wouldn't fit, the 30 yr old hook is of a slightly different design as the "new" ashpan, luckily I can put my grinder away on this one as they are nice enough to provide me with a new one.






The ash pan with the handles and new "hook" installed. I did not like the new handle that cane with the new ashpan so I re-used the old one.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 7, 2009)

Now this time I decided to bolt the HX to the firebox WITHOUT the paneling on it. Because it was a new HX I did not have to mess around with anything but if you are just changing the firebox and not a HX then you may need new bolts, mine came with new bolts and screw plates. Stand the HX on end and put your gasket in place. I chose to punch a hole thru the gasket for each bolthole to make instalation a bit easier(the gasket holds the bolts). This was done a little after moving the firebox so I was more than happy to pick it up and set it there. Once it was in place because all the bolts are already there and i put some glue on the screwplates to hold them in place, I ran the top ones in with an air ratchet. That was enough to hold the HX in place. I went around it, snuging up them all first before the final tightening. Once they are all snug, me being an auto tech i started in the center and criss crossed to the outside to pull the HX even to the firebox as I do not want any leaks there. This is where I stopped for the night as kids have school tomorrow(can't make too much noise)

Picture of the HX bolted to the firebox.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 7, 2009)

I had a few things to add to this.

1. efore I installed the firebox the furnace floor was cleaned up and sprayed with "rust encapsulator" to help deter from it rotting out. It was then sprayed with some hi=temp black paint and let cure. I went over it with my heat gun to "bake" it on. 

2. I don't know if it matters or not but my old firebox had an additional support plate attaching the burner mount to the firebox, this one does not.

3. The new firedoor had these square pieces of metal welded to the top of it, they had to be trimmed 1/8th of an inch on the top to allow the door to close or it would hit the "afterburner" air intake. The one on the rear of the door at the hinge had to be trimmed off a little extra as once the "afterburner" air intake plate was bolted on, the door could not be removed and when I clean the furnace in the January melt and the spring melt I remove the door to do so as it is easier for me. I trimmed off just enough to be able to remove the door.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 9, 2009)

Got the paneling on tonight. It was a pain in the butt but I managed to get it done.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Sep 9, 2009)

another couple of hours and your done....nice job!


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 9, 2009)

yea, I only get about an hour a night to do anything to it.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Sep 9, 2009)

2. I don't know if it matters or not but my old firebox had an additional support plate attaching the burner mount to the firebox, this one does not.



That part has been beefed up so the support is no longer needed.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 9, 2009)

ok, thanks


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 10, 2009)

Got a little more done.
.
Installed the draft tube. The 2 screws behind it are a pita to get in but otherwise its straight forward.







Installed the inside panel, it just slides in the groove.






Installed the HX divider things that seperate the hot side of the furnace with the cold side.











And lastly I got the outlet box shroud installed. 






I only worked on it for maybee 30 min so this is all I got done.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 15, 2009)

Managed to get a little more done. 

I picked up some new rubber bushings for the blower assembly as the old ones were getting close to nothing. Those just pop into place. You need 4 of them. Once those are in you can put the assembly into the furnace. Just slide it in the cut-out and be gentle as not to tear the bushings. It will sit over 2-studs on the back bushings. I do not use a nut on the blower because if there is one then it makes noise. Its been used lke that for 20 years with no problems. 

Pic of the blower assembly installed.





Once the blower is in you can put the rear lower door on and the filter supports.

Filter supports installed





Lower door installed with filter in.





Now the filter access door can be put on. This door always used to be a pita to put on but now it just slides right in easy, guess it pays off to make sure all the paneling is lined up right.






Next I installed the Secondary air burn air control plate. Just straight forward on this one.






Next the drip shield around the burner was set in place. Now while the burner is out, i'd be a good time to clean and set the electrodes. Now I know what I set mine to to make it work however I'm not exactly sure what Yukon says to set them to so I'll let Keith chime in here. After the burner is throughly cleaned and has the electrodes set (I replaced the nozzle too) Its time for Installation. Put the new gasket on the 3 studs so they hold it in place sorta. Then slide the burner into the hole and tighten the 3 nuts holding it. When you get the 3 nuts tightened you can hook your wiring up and attach your oil supply line. I will get into bleeding the system later. 






Thats as far as I go tonight. Hopefully more tomorrow.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 15, 2009)

By the way I'm human so I forgot to mention that there are 2 l-brackets at the bottom of the inside panel that need to be installed. If you look at the pic of the blower assembly you can see them.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Sep 15, 2009)

The gap out to 1/8" apart and 1/8" beyond the nozzle.
The nozzle should have been a 1.0 GPH 80 degree hollow.
After bleeding the line you should set the air adjustment so that the tips of the flame are bright orange.
Retard the air so the flame is white then adjust the air to so that the flame goes orange with black smoke tips then back the ait off so that the black tip go away. Without a gauge this is the way to set the air.

Lastly the barometric draft regulator needs to be set with a manometer so the it reads .03" of water column.
This test is done in the flue pipe off of the end of the furnace but before the barometric draft regulator.

Here's the MSR oil burner manual for all of the info relating to the burner...
http://www.waynecombustion.com/pdfs/22019_MSR.pdf

Here's the furnace manual for info on setting the BDR...
http://www.yukon-eagle.com/Portals/0/manuals/Yukon Manual_Eagle 1_2.pdf

I'm outta here at noon and will be gone tommorow.
My other job is calling.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 15, 2009)

Thanks for the info, I'm sure someone here will benefit from those numbers.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 20, 2009)

Got down there to do some more work to the furnace. 

Next step was to secure the plenums to the top of the furnace. It was held there last time with pop rivets and now it is held with screws. The pop rivets were a pita to get out.

Plenums with screws holding it.





I have one of those whole house humidifiers so that needed to be installed as well. 

Picture of the humidifier.






The pipes were hooked up next. I put some supports on the pipes as it is such a long span to get to the wall.

Pipes on furnace





Pipes going to wall 







The pipes were hooked up to the burner. They are still not bled tho.








Last but not least.........









Thank you Crapiekeith and to those who followed this thread. I will get this on the Yukon forum as well once I get the chance to.


----------



## CrappieKeith (Sep 23, 2009)

I did not see a barometric draft regulator installed???????????
This furnace will run way to hot and you'll not get the burn times without one.
It is also going to be very inefficient on the oil as well.
The furnace is UL listed to have one installed.

Other than that your pipe is a long run but it slopes.
I saw cresote staining on your cabinet which the long pipe or wet wood caused.

Other than that it all looks good.
????? Is that humidifier made of plastic?


----------



## mtfallsmikey (Sep 23, 2009)

Most all humidifiers today are made of plastic/fiberglass/composite.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 23, 2009)

CrappieKeith said:


> I did not see a barometric draft regulator installed???????????
> This furnace will run way to hot and you'll not get the burn times without one.
> It is also going to be very inefficient on the oil as well.
> The furnace is UL listed to have one installed.
> ...




The house sits at the bottom of a hill and when the winter wind blows it goes right over the top of the chimney and will lose all draft with a barometric draft regulator installed. We never use the oil anyway. The creosote staining is from not having a chimney cap. There used to be one but it kept getting blown off. We made a permanent one and it broke and fell down the chimney destroying the flues on its way down so it gets operated without one. Yes the humidifier is made of plastic. It has been there for 4 years now and there are no signs of melting. 

By the way, before using this furnace after a firebox replacement, open all doors and windows before you light it, it stinks like heck.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 24, 2009)

hoping that someone had some ideas on it. I'll try and install the baro draft regulator and go from there. I also went up the chimney and made it 3 blocks higher, hope that'll help with the wind issue.


----------



## laynes69 (Sep 24, 2009)

I'd replace the galvanized flue sections with black flue pipe. Some of the galvanized coating has already burned off. It produces toxic fumes when this happens, and isn't safe. Galvanized is not meant to be used as flue pipe, unless its for a water heater flue, or oil furnace.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 24, 2009)

ok, thanks, I had planned on doing that before the furnace went into full swing. All of the pipes are going to be replaced just trying to work out the bugs first. The blocks should be dry enough by now. I am going to check the draft and see what it is now. Also the cleanout door at the bottom of the chimney was rotten so I am losing draft thru there as well. The new door is ordered and awaiting arrival.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Sep 30, 2009)

Replaced those 3 sections of galvanized pipe with black flue pipe and added the barometric draft regulator. Its been hot for 48 hours now. They even got snow just north of here in ottawa today according to the radio.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Oct 3, 2009)

Just for the record, before I went 3 more blocks up with my chimney, it had .04 inches of water vacuum. I put 3 more blocks up there to add 1 more flue and it went to .07 inches of water. I put the barometric draft regulator on and set it to .03 and when the burner runs or when first lighting the fire manually it will just about be horizontal. Just thought I'd like to add that. I'm hoping to get a little more burn time out of this thing now. Only had maybee 4 hours in the dead of the winter before, hopefully will get around 5.


----------

