# Stihl 026 or new ms261 or go all out with the Ms 362?



## icecoldbeer (Aug 15, 2012)

I am looking to replace my Craftsman which I put through six years of hard labor without any real problems...until lately ( I am glad I finally have an excuse to get another saw). It costs more to fix than it's worth (which is apparently just enough to buy a bottle of gatoraid after yanking on the handle 15 times in 100 degree heat). My sights are set on the ms 362 but I am wondering if I need that much of a saw. I have about 200 dead trees, mostly oak, from the Texas drought of 2011. I figure I'll only be cutting another 15 years if I am lucky and will use the around 200 hours a year.

My enemy is the heat so I want a saw that will cut through 8-14 inch hardwood quicker than slower. Will the 026 or ms 261 suffice or should I get the ms362 and not look back. The money is not a real issue however the less I have in a saw the more I can put in a pole saw. I am finding I can buy an ms362 locally for $649 w20" bar+chain for about $50 more than the used ones go for on ebay.

Any thoughts? Thanks.


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## XSKIER (Aug 15, 2012)

Dead dry wood is hard to cut. It takes alot of power and a sharp chain. I just replaced my MS290 with a MS362, I'm quite pleased with the upgrade. The 290 had .325" chain on a 20" bar, the 362 has 3/8" chain on a 20" bar. The 362 is easily 25% faster cutting than the 290. I cut alot of dead dry wood too, and the slowness of the 290 wore me out. I know the 261 is pro and the 290 is not, but they're rated close to the same power.


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## icecoldbeer (Aug 15, 2012)

XSKIER said:


> Dead dry wood is hard to cut. It takes alot of power and a sharp chain. I just replaced my MS290 with a MS362, I'm quite pleased with the upgrade. The 290 had .325" chain on a 20" bar, the 362 has 3/8" chain on a 20" bar. The 362 is easily 25% faster cutting than the 290. I cut alot of dead dry wood too, and the slowness of the 290 wore me out. I know the 261 is pro and the 290 is not, but they're rated close to the same power.




Just what I am thinking too. I am good for about an hour in the heat of the summer time and the longer it takes to cut the less I get done. Thanks!


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## Matt J Leppek (Aug 15, 2012)

Do you have any good dealers around? Doesn't matter the brand really, all saws have their high and low points but do the job in the end of the day. What really matters is your dealer. Better to buy from him and build a relationship then buy off ebay. Now if you don't have a stihl dealer nearby, cant go wrong with husky or dolmar.

Edit: reread your post, thought you said you found them on ebay for 649, not locally. My bad. Now that that's cleared up...my vote goes for the 562xp option


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## XSKIER (Aug 15, 2012)

That's a great 362 price also! Here in Michigan they are $709+Tax.


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Aug 15, 2012)

Sounds like with the workload you're expecting that you need the MS362. (We really can't compare the MS290 with the MS362, or the MS261 with the MS362 --it's quite a step up). If you're looking for the power to keep you out of the heat I'd say go with the MS362. If I had 200 trees to cut I might encourage you to think of a 2 saw combination. Others will probably be along soon to chime in. You may consider buying two used saws in the place of one new - just a thought. :msp_wink:


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## icecoldbeer (Aug 15, 2012)

I have a special relationship with a local dealer. I trade him money for good stuff. They also sell Stihl and offered me the deal because I trade with them pretty regular. Looks like I'll be there b&e Saturday picking up my 362. I agree that on ebay you really never know what you will end up with internally and I treat my equipment with tlc and like to know how its benn cared for. I have never bought used power tools for that reason although I am sure some of them have had good care.


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## nstueve (Aug 15, 2012)

If you're not brand loyal look into a Dolmar/ Makita 6401/6421. they can be had for the same price and are about the best wood cutting saw you can get. Plus they upgrade relativley cheap to a 79-84cc saw if you need more power down the road. The stock 64cc dolmar or makita will run a 20in bar with authority. I was in the same boat coming from a Poulan some odd years back (your craftsman is probably a poulan) and after all the reviews I went for the 6401 b/c of the high torque and the ability to upgrade the piston and cylinder to make a bigger saw (something you won't get with a Stihl). I dare you to find any bad reviews on here about them... There is also a HD air filter system that is spectacular!!!!

361/362 also a solid choice but I'd still go for the 6400/6401/6421 any day of the week.


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## nstueve (Aug 15, 2012)

icecoldbeer said:


> I have a special relationship with a local dealer. I trade him money for good stuff. They also sell Stihl and offered me the deal because I trade with them pretty regular. Looks like I'll be there b&e Saturday picking up my 362. I agree that on ebay you really never know what you will end up with internally and I treat my equipment with tlc and like to know how its benn cared for. I have never bought used power tools for that reason although I am sure some of them have had good care.



not sure if 362's have limiter caps but I will guarentee if they do your saw will live longer without them... they starve the piston and cylinder of lube when the saw idles and roaches the piston. EPA regulated ideas... something your dealer can't remove but you can.


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## Matt J Leppek (Aug 15, 2012)

You'll be happy with the ms362. Now just send it to one of the sponsered porters on here so it'll have more power and live longer :wink2:


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## dolmarfan (Aug 15, 2012)

The newest sthill in Romania had some problems with piston seizure do to factory settings of the carb but I also had the same problem with my dolmar 5000 wich have been solved after removing the limiter caps and a good tune up of the carb!
The dolmar 6400 or the equivalent makita sems to be problem free from this point of wiew.


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## SawTroll (Aug 15, 2012)

This sounds simple - 562xp!


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## Mad Professor (Aug 15, 2012)

I'd look for a nice 036. Only a bit heavier than a 026, and as much TUNEABLE power as a 362.

IMHO the 362 is portly and feels/looks like box. In contrast the 036 has the best feel of any saw w/20" B/C

I've not ran a 261 so will reserve comment on that.


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## 7sleeper (Aug 15, 2012)

Look for a 50cc & 70cc combo.

7


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## jus2fat (Aug 15, 2012)

If you have a good relationship with your Stihl dealer...then buy the MS 362 for sure..!!

You have tooo many trees to even consider the 026 or MS261..!!

The price sounds very nice..and buy the 6-pack of Ultra oil to double the warranty.

Also..have the dealer remove the limiter caps..adjust the carb richer..then re-install the caps.

The MS362 will serve you well..!!
----------------------------------
The Husky 562XP is also a great saw..FWIW..!!

J2F


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## KenJax Tree (Aug 15, 2012)

I knew Sawtroll had posted and what it said just by seeing this post lol. But again i gotta agree with him the 562xp is a sweet saw.


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## Pongu (Aug 15, 2012)

200 dead oaks? 
I'd want a 70cc saw! (they are all good).


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## jus2fat (Aug 15, 2012)

Pongu said:


> 200 dead oaks?
> I'd want a 70cc saw! (they are all good).


Well..I would generally and usually totally agree with you..!!

But..the way I read the OP's post is he's not in any big hurry to cut up those 200 trees..??
(He also didn't specify what size..diameter they are..so tough call..!!)

A 70cc & 50 cc combo would be perfect..if he wants and can spend the cash..!!
Otherwise..the MS362 (60cc) should do him well..IMHO.

He does need a 2nd saw..with 200 trees..it's almost 100% certain he's gonna get pinched several times..!!

J2F


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## Matt J Leppek (Aug 15, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> This sounds simple - 562xp!



Heeeyyyyyyy I said it first! :msp_biggrin:


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## Pongu (Aug 15, 2012)

jus2fat said:


> Well..I would generally and usually totally agree with you..!!
> 
> But..the way I read the OP's post is he's not in any big hurry to cut up those 200 trees..??
> (He also didn't specify what size..diameter they are..so tough call..!!)
> ...



He said 8-14 inch hardwood (dead oak would qualify as hardwood! ) and "quicker than slower" because of the heat.

I know I'd grab my Stihl 046 with a 16" bar (even though I love the little 026) and spend the rest of the afternoon with a cold beer or a pretty woman instead! 

The good thing with Stihl is that you don't need a second saw for when you get pinched, that's just something we tell our wives to justify doubling the saw collection!  With the inboard clutch, you can just remove the B/C Put on another set and keep going!


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## Roll Tide (Aug 15, 2012)

If it was me Id buy a nice used 361 and a nice used 026. run a 18 on the 362 and 16 on the 026. Its nice reaching for that small saw when you dont need any bigger.IMO


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## jus2fat (Aug 15, 2012)

Pongu said:


> He said 8-14 inch hardwood (dead oak would qualify as hardwood! ) and "quicker than slower" because of the heat.
> 
> I know I'd grab my Stihl 046 with a 16" bar (even though I love the little 026) and spend the rest of the afternoon with a cold beer or a pretty woman instead!
> 
> The good thing with Stihl is that you don't need a second saw for when you get pinched, that's just something we tell our wives to justify doubling the saw collection!  With the inboard clutch, you can just remove the B/C Put on another set and keep going!


You're right..my error on the diameter of the trees..!! - and if that's all he's got the ms362 is plenty enough..IMHO.

Yeah..I know you can just change bars,..but I always have a least 2 saws with me..for more reasons than one..!!

J2F


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## jus2fat (Aug 15, 2012)

rolltide said:


> If it was me Id buy a nice used 361 and a nice used 026. run a 18 on the 362 and 16 on the 026. Its nice reaching for that small saw when you dont need any bigger.IMO


Great advice..!! - You're definitely thinking more smarter than I am today..!!

J2F


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## Mad Professor (Aug 15, 2012)

I'll say ONE thing to the 362 fans.

Have you seen the clusterfuk carb?

Want to work on that? If Not GOT $$$$$$$

BYE


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## Roll Tide (Aug 15, 2012)

jus2fat said:


> Great advice..!! - You're definitely thinking more smarter than I am today..!!
> 
> J2F


I have my days:msp_biggrin: Very few and far between though.


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## 7sleeper (Aug 15, 2012)

With 8-14 inch I would think about a 40cc & 60cc combo.

7


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## indiansprings (Aug 15, 2012)

From what we do 200 dead oaks in that size range might be a weeks work or a little more in the fall. With good sharp chains dead oak is not as near as hard as hedge or mesquite that is seasoned. The 362 is plenty of saw for the task at hand and should last a lifetime. It all depends on how old you are and what kind of shape your in, being in the firewood business and cutting virtually everday from late Aug thru early March of every year, now being over fifty I find myself making the migration from large cc saws to using the 261 more than any other size saw I own. We use two of them in our firewood business and they are more than enough saw if you getting older or weight sensitive, they handle a 18" .325 set up in any wood we cut from dead oak hickory, hedge an excellent saw. With that said our MS 361 has cut more wood in the last four years than any of our saws, we run a 18" 3/8 set up and it has plenty power for our geographical location. It's cut up many a oak 30" +.
Always keep in mind this is an enthusiast site and bigger is always better. A MS362 is a great all around size saw, a proven design and your getting a great deal. Although I'm sure the 562 is a great saw, I've found that in the last 30+ years dealer relationships are more important than brand.


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## Pongu (Aug 15, 2012)

jus2fat said:


> You're right..my error on the diameter of the trees..!! - and if that's all he's got the ms362 is plenty enough..IMHO.
> 
> Yeah..I know you can just change bars,..but I always have a least 2 saws with me..for more reasons than one..!!
> 
> J2F



Yes, it's a matter of taste/style really!
For that size wood I agree you don't really need a big saw. But you can put an 8-pin rim on a 460, use a short bar and just blaze through wood. Or you can use a 261 and take your time. But I agree 362 is good if you only have one saw!

/Pontus


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## tallguys (Aug 15, 2012)

If you're looking to get by with just the one saw, I'd go with the 362 if thats what you're happy with. Personally I'd lean towards the Dolmar.


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## D&B Mack (Aug 15, 2012)

If I had 200 trees, 8-14", I would not go more than the 261/346xp/5105.


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## indiansprings (Aug 15, 2012)

D&B Mack said:


> If I had 200 trees, 8-14", I would not go more than the 261/346xp/5105.




You really hit the nail on the head, on that size of wood I really doubt I could tell any difference in cutting times between my 261' s as compared to my 361.


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## StihlyinEly (Aug 15, 2012)

Interesting. I'd have gone with the 362 and a 16-inch bar. My 60cc saws typically run 20-inch bars. A 16 is plenty of bar for those trees, and with a sharp chain and swapping the factory 7-pin rim for an 8-pin, that 60cc saw will gobble oak significantly faster than the 50cc saws mentioned, especially after it has a dozen tanks through it for break-in. A bit heavier, so there is that to consider, but that's what I'd go with. 

I often run my stock 034S with the 8-pin and 16 inch B&C. The saw, it likes it!  And I'm guessing the 362 has my 034S handily beaten when it comes to power. 

If you can only have a single saw for firewood, I really like the 60cc class. Not too heavy, can easily handle a 20-inch bar when needed, and as mentioned will run like crazy with a smaller bar and faster rim. You really can't get that kind of versatility out of a stock 50cc saw.


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## MS460WOODCHUCK (Aug 15, 2012)

D&B Mack said:


> If I had 200 trees, 8-14", I would not go more than the 261/346xp/5105.



This is what I would be packing with me for this job a strong running 50cc saw with a good antivibe system. JMO


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## RAMROD48 (Aug 15, 2012)

Mad Professor said:


> I'll say ONE thing to the 362 fans.
> 
> Have you seen the clusterfuk carb?
> 
> ...



Stihl has one of the least congested carb. boxes on the market...(I work on them all)...

That being said, to me there is only 1 saw that would fit the bill in this particular set of conditions...

MS261-18 

Would have a 20 bar and loop handy for when I had a lot of limb'in to do...


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## madpogue (Aug 15, 2012)

jus2fat said:


> A 70cc & 50 cc combo would be perfect..if he wants and can spend the cash..!!
> Otherwise..the MS362 (60cc) should do him well..IMHO.
> 
> He does need a 2nd saw..with 200 trees..it's almost 100% certain he's gonna get pinched several times..!!


 True about the second saw, but at those diameters, I would think a 60cc/40cc combo would do. For that matter, a craigslist MS180 could suffice as the "second saw".



Pongu said:


> ... and spend the rest of the afternoon with a cold beer *or* a pretty woman instead!


 "Or"?.....


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## SawTroll (Aug 15, 2012)

StihlyinEly said:


> Interesting. I'd have gone with the 362 and a 16-inch bar. ..... . A 16 is plenty of bar for those trees, and with a sharp chain and swapping the factory 7-pin rim for an 8-pin, that 60cc saw will gobble oak significantly faster than the 50cc saws mentioned, especially after it has a dozen tanks through it for break-in. A bit heavier, so there is that to consider, but that's what I'd go with. ........




:agree2: - if it has to be a Stihl.


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## Arbonaut (Aug 15, 2012)

For a lot of cutting in that dry dead standing Oak, the MS261 is the best choice (filtration). You are barking up the right tree with any of those saws. I didn't know there was Oak like that in Texas. Best thing about AS. Learn about other places.

Boy, Oak can't take the drought, you are right about that--Sugar Maple, too with shallow roots. Syrup is gonna be hard to get when I get to be a old fart.


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## StihlyinEly (Aug 15, 2012)

Our oaks up here (bur, white and red) run with a deep tap root, so they are more drought and blowdown resistant.


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## icecoldbeer (Aug 15, 2012)

Just want to thank everyone who chimed on my thread today. I think I'll end up wit a ported 362 w/an 8 pin rim and 20" bar for the bigger wood and then a 192 for limbing. I throw a huge party every year with a 9 foot tall bonfire. With as many dead Pin Oaks as I have, I suspect I won't run out of firewood for a long time.


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## nmurph (Aug 15, 2012)

I would have a ported 346 with a 20" bar. My second choice would be a ported 261 with a 20" bar. Either one will absolutely gnaw those trees down and not break your back doing so. A 346 is nearly two pounds lighter than a 362.


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## StihlyinEly (Aug 15, 2012)

nmurph said:


> I would have a ported 346 with a 20" bar. My second choice would be a ported 261 with a 20" bar. Either one will absolutely gnaw those trees down and not break your back doing so. A 346 is nearly two pounds lighter than a 362.



Yup, my comments were aimed at a discussion of stock saws.

If you can get one woods ported, that's the ticket. None of my small saws are ported, though I've cut a fair amount with small ported saws, and my bigger ones are ported. Definitely adds some significant muscle to the equation, and a ported 50cc saw with a 16-inch bar (you don't need a bigger bar for what you're doing), is a joy to behold. They'll run a 20 with no problem, but they positively scream with a 16. Personally, the 20-inch B&C on a 50cc saw feels really out of balance (front-heavy) to me. But it is nice to have the reach of a 20-inch when limbing. 

If you are talking Stihl, you can pick up a used 026 or 260 and have it ported by one of the number of excellent saw modifiers here on AS for what a new 261 would cost.

I'm really happy with my stock 026 (haven't even done a muffler mod on it), but I'm looking pretty hard at sending it out this winter for porting. Nothing wrong with a 50cc saw that a strong port job and muffler mod can't cure. I may send out my 034S, but it's already so strong that it might actually scare me if I got it ported and put an 8-pin rim on it with the 20-inch B&C.  

If you're willing to look at a Husqvarna, nmurph is your man. The ported 346 saws are awesome!


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## jus2fat (Aug 16, 2012)

icecoldbeer said:


> Just want to thank everyone who chimed on my thread today. I think I'll end up wit a ported 362 w/an 8 pin rim and 20" bar for the bigger wood and then a 192 for limbing. I throw a huge party every year with a 9 foot tall bonfire. With as many dead Pin Oaks as I have, I suspect I won't run out of firewood for a long time.


Well..I'm all the way with you on the ported 362..!!

But..rather than a 192..I'd go for a good used 026..

I have both and the the 192 is good for really small stuff..where the 026 would be a real compliment..!!

Both limbing and bucking and freeing you out of a pinched bar.

As said I have both..so no prejudice..it's just the 026 can handle twice the tasks than the 192..!! 

A new 192 is $300..used $150....for $200-$250 you can get a really good condition 026.

Also you can run a 18-20" bar for limbing on the 026..

14" best..16" absolute max on the 192...(ya ain't gonna like it..!!)

And for the 3rd time..I have both..so please take that into consideration..!!
Your Call..!!

J2F


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## BarkBuster20 (Aug 16, 2012)

You would be best off with a used 026 with 16" b&c


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## SawTroll (Aug 16, 2012)

icecoldbeer said:


> Just want to thank everyone who chimed on my thread today. I think I'll end up wit a ported 362 w/an 8 pin rim and 20" bar for the bigger wood and then a 192 for limbing. I throw a huge party every year with a 9 foot tall bonfire. With as many dead Pin Oaks as I have, I suspect I won't run out of firewood for a long time.



I fail to see how the 20" bar fits in here? :msp_confused:


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## Mpbowyer (Aug 16, 2012)

icecoldbeer said:


> Just want to thank everyone who chimed on my thread today. I think I'll end up wit a ported 362 w/an 8 pin rim and 20" bar for the bigger wood and then a 192 for limbing. I throw a huge party every year with a 9 foot tall bonfire. With as many dead Pin Oaks as I have, I suspect I won't run out of firewood for a long time.



The 362 is a good saw, and I'd run it as-is before porting (mine four-strokes out of the cut with factory settings if you're worried about limiter caps and reliability). Also think about buying a lightened bar for it, you can lose about a pound.

If you're planning on getting the 192 new, think about a used 200 if you can find one. Not sure what they're worth in your area.


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## Roll Tide (Aug 16, 2012)

There was a new 200 t that went for almost $1000 on Ebay the other day.


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## icecoldbeer (Aug 16, 2012)

I am amaze at the often inflated and also deflated prices that happen on ebay. I can buy a new ms362 for $649 locally and they sell for $695 on ebay. Used saws IMO sell for way too much to chance that they have been treated improperly.


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## SawTroll (Aug 16, 2012)

I prefere that my beer is just cool, not ice cold! 


....but you are right that E-bay prices sometimes are crazy. Some of it is caused by ignorant buyers, while other (US) autions (on new saws) obviously are directed at international buyers, as the prices in the US are very low compared to elsewhere.


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## Chris J. (Aug 16, 2012)

ICB, what part of TX are you in?

Around here, Houston in general, the oaks handled last years drought OK more or less, but there are a lot of standing dead pine trees.


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## nmurph (Aug 16, 2012)

Iced Beer, how much of the cutting will be in the 12-14" range and how much is in the smaller stuff? A 50cc saw will handle 14" stuff without complaint, but if most of the trees are 14", then I would definitely be looking for a 60cc (or really a ported 50cc) saw. Also, are you just dumping these trees or are you limbing them? If they have to be limbed I would find a 50cc saw. 

I would definitely forget the 192.


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## icecoldbeer (Aug 16, 2012)

Chris J. said:


> ICB, what part of TX are you in?
> 
> Around here, Houston in general, the oaks handled last years drought OK more or less, but there are a lot of standing dead pine trees.



My place is between Hempstead and Navasota. Mostly the Pin Oaks died. The other oak trees did ok. You can see I have a lot of Pin Oaks. View attachment 248808
View attachment 248808
.

All of the grey areas are dead trees.:thinking:


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## icecoldbeer (Aug 16, 2012)

Chris J. said:


> ICB, what part of TX are you in?
> 
> Around here, Houston in general, the oaks handled last years drought OK more or less, but there are a lot of standing dead pine trees.



I have a lot of dead standing Pin Oak trees that are dropping branches by the dozen. Most of the branches are less than 8 inches. The trees that are falling over can be up to 20 inches and they are just starting to fall. I have two 100+ year old trees that have started dying and they are huge. I had an arborist out and he told me I could see trees dying for 2 years after the drought. It sickens me. The grey areas in the photo are dead trees. 

View attachment 248809


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## StihlyinEly (Aug 16, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> I fail to see how the 20" bar fits in here? :msp_confused:



So he'll also buy a 16-inch B&C and run it with a 9-pin rim. Uh oh!!!!


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## icecoldbeer (Aug 16, 2012)

StihlyinEly said:


> So he'll also buy a 16-inch B&C and run it with a 9-pin rim. Uh oh!!!!



Seems like not a good idea with a 16? I may change B&C's out sometime but I am going with a 20" B&C as my standard. ...:msp_confused:


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## H 2 H (Aug 16, 2012)

I don't see why anyone would put a 16" b/c on a 50cc saw let alone a 60cc saw

If your limbing you'll kill you back after a one day of using a 16" b/c on a 50cc or 60cc saws (I know I would and have)

I have NO problem running a 20" b/c on my 50cc saw

40cc saws are prefect for 16" b/c


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## SawTroll (Aug 16, 2012)

H 2 H said:


> I don't see why anyone would put a 16" b/c on a 50cc saw let alone a 60cc saw
> 
> If your limbing you'll kill you back after a one day of using a 16" b/c on a 50cc or 60cc saws (I know I would and have)
> 
> ...



Well, I have a really bad back, and I use 15 and 16" bars for limbing on both 50 and 60cc saws. It doesn't work as well with an 18" bar, even on the MS361 - the saw is slower to move around, and it is "easier" to hit the ground with the tip. 

I assume it all comes down to how it is done, and I am surely not walking on top of the logs....


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## H 2 H (Aug 16, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> Well, I have a really bad back, and I use 15 and 16" bars for limbing on both 50 and 60cc saws. It doesn't work as well with an 18" bar, even on the MS361 - the saw is slower to move around, and it is "easier" to hit the ground with the tip.
> 
> I assume it all comes down to how it is done, and I am surely not walking on top of the logs....





LOL; you talk about a 50cc Stihl saw using 18" b/c that is 8 ounces (+/-) heavier than a counter part Husky that is way to heavy and then you'll use a 60cc with a 15" and 16" b/c kinda don't make any since ST

So the weight has nothing to do with it so you don’t need to put the 8 ounces wedge in your left rear pocket while run a 50cc saw :jester:


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## SawTroll (Aug 16, 2012)

H 2 H said:


> LOL; you talk about a 50cc Stihl saw using 18" b/c that is 8 ounces (+/-) heavier than a counter part Husky that is way to heavy and then you'll use a 60cc with a 15" and 16" b/c kinda don't make any since ST
> 
> So the weight has nothing to do with it so you don’t need to put the 8 ounces wedge in your left rear pocket while run a 50cc saw :jester:



Weight at the tip of the bar affects the handling of the saw, weight in my pockets does not.....:msp_biggrin:


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## jus2fat (Aug 16, 2012)

H 2 H said:


> I don't see why anyone would put a 16" b/c on a 50cc saw let alone a 60cc saw
> 
> If your limbing you'll kill you back after a one day of using a 16" b/c on a 50cc or 60cc saws (I know I would and have
> 
> ...


The best scenario (IMHO) is to have them both..16" B/C for felling-bucking..and 20" B/C for limbing.

It's really not too expensive as both will be used alternately..!! So both will last a long time..!!

Or maybe I'm reading this whole thread wrong..wouldn't be the first time..!!

J2F


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## H 2 H (Aug 16, 2012)

jus2fat said:


> The best scenario (IMHO) is to have them both..16" B/C for felling-bucking..and 20" B/C for limbing.
> 
> It's really not too expensive as both will be used alternately..!! So both will last a long time..!!
> 
> ...





Heck the land owner were I'm cutting now thinks Im crazy when I brought up there was three saws MS 250 18' b/c; MS 261 20" b/c and a MS 390 25" b/c when all the trees are 18" dia and smaller and all I have used is the MS 250


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## Pongu (Aug 16, 2012)

Here in the nordic countries people think you're mad if you suggest a 16" bar might be useful for limbing, instead of the 13" that everyone uses! 

For me, 16" is perfect for both limbing and felling. It allows me to run an 8-pin on the 046. When I need something bigger I bring out the 064 with a 25" bar.


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## SawTroll (Aug 16, 2012)

Pongu said:


> Here in the nordic countries people think you're mad if you suggest a 16" bar might be useful for limbing, instead of the 13" that everyone uses!
> 
> For me, 16" is perfect for both limbing and felling. It allows me to run an 8-pin on the 046. When I need something bigger I bring out the 064 with a 25" bar.


My 361 likes an 8-pin with the 15" bar, and I'm sure it would with a 16" as well. It is a stock Euro one.


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## StihlyinEly (Aug 16, 2012)

jus2fat said:


> The best scenario (IMHO) is to have them both..16" B/C for felling-bucking..and 20" B/C for limbing.



Yup.


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## jus2fat (Aug 16, 2012)

H 2 H said:


> Heck the land owner were I'm cutting now thinks Im crazy when I brought up there was three saws MS 250 18' b/c; MS 261 20" b/c and a MS 390 25" b/c when all the trees are 18" dia and smaller and all I have used is the MS 250


I do very little cutting for others now that I'm retired...I really only mostly do clean-up work for elderly folks.

When I seldom do a job...I've been amazed as the homeowner...watching of course..can't understand why I change B/C.

I stop and explain..(on their dime as I only do work by the hour) and after explaining..sometimes they get it..other times not.

I once had an ####### tell me I was "padding" my time rate...I just shut the saw off...and said to "never call me again"

I lost $$ on my time and expenses...(no pay)...but I left in a decent mood..and.."nobody went to jail..and nobody went to hell"

It worked out for the best in the long run..as none of his wealthy (exclusive neighborhood) neighbors ever called me again..!!

J2F


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## SawTroll (Aug 16, 2012)

jus2fat said:


> The best scenario (IMHO) is to have them both..16" B/C for felling-bucking..and 20" B/C for limbing.
> 
> It's really not too expensive as both will be used alternately..!! So both will last a long time..!!
> 
> ...



When I use different ones, it is the long one for felling, and the short one for limbing and bucking.....:msp_biggrin:


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## StihlyinEly (Aug 16, 2012)

Regardless of who uses which length bar for what, the point of recommending the 60cc saw was that it has more versatility than a 50cc saw. And if the OP gets it ported like he said, it'll run anything up to a 25-inch B&C. That's a LOT of versatility in a 60cc saw.


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## jus2fat (Aug 16, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> When I use different ones, it is the long one for felling, and the short one for limbing and bucking.....:msp_biggrin:


Yeah..only in in your dreams...as in mine when I'm 20 years old..!!

I have also had hip replacement and I'll never be 100% again..maybe 90% for now..3 years ago.

I hope you have had better recovery..!!!!!- I'm dealing with my lower bad back..standing still is the worst..!!
..and 
J2F


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## hangfirew8 (Aug 16, 2012)

jus2fat said:


> Yeah..only in in your dreams...as in mine when I'm 20 years old..!!
> 
> I have also had hip replacement and I'll never be 100% again..maybe 90% for now..3 years ago.
> 
> ...



Hmm. With a little help from my friends here (including J2F) I got my ms200t running... 

After some thunderstorms the other day, I had some 5 and 6 inch 20-footer limbs on the ground to clean up. Now that I've got some good, working chainsaws, I had a chance to grab one instead of the KM110 with 12" pole pruner I was making due with before. The 200 with 14" bar is as light and handy as it gets...

I started out with the pole saw, and nearly finished with it. I'm going to buck up the heaviest part of the limbs with the ms200t or the 435, but all the on-the-ground limbing work, did it all with the pole saw, and never bent over once to make a cut... gotta love that.

I think the pole saws are under-appreciated here. I should mention it in my sig!

HF


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## SawTroll (Aug 16, 2012)

StihlyinEly said:


> Regardless of who uses which length bar for what, the point of recommending the 60cc saw was that it has more versatility than a 50cc saw. And if the OP gets it ported like he said, it'll run anything up to a 25-inch B&C. That's a LOT of versatility in a 60cc saw.



There actually are no 25" bars, even though Stihl calls their 24" bars that....

Of course you are right that a 60cc saw is more versatile than the 50cc ones, provided they are similar saws.


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## StihlyinEly (Aug 16, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> There actually are no 25" bars, even though Stihl calls their 24" bars that....
> 
> Of course you are right that a 60cc saw is more versatile than the 50cc ones, provided they are similar saws.



I drink the Stihl KoolAid, so I speak in Stihlspeak.    

Of course, a ported 70cc saw would be even MORE versatile than a ported 60cc saw, but sooner or later the pounds begin to add up. I've said many times the best two-saw plan is a 50cc and 70cc saw. But the best one-saw plan for a variety of uses is the 60cc saw.

No matter which brand we're talking about. 

I'd like to spend several hours putting a broken in and ported MS362 through its paces. Sounds like a great time in the wood! :msp_biggrin:


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## SawTroll (Aug 16, 2012)

StihlyinEly said:


> I drink the Stihl KoolAid, so I speak in Stihlspeak.
> 
> Of course, a ported 70cc saw would be even MORE versatile than a ported 60cc saw, but sooner or later the pounds begin to add up. I've said many times the best two-saw plan is a 50cc and 70cc saw. But the best one-saw plan for a variety of uses is the 60cc saw.
> 
> ...



I agree about 60cc for an "allround" saw, but the MS362 would be a bit down on the list, and not on the final shortlist at all! :msp_smile:

The weight, the inboard clutch and the well known air filter issue all take their toll - the low price over here isn't enough to help.


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## Arbonaut (Aug 16, 2012)

Chris J. said:


> ICB, what part of TX are you in?
> 
> Around here, Houston in general, the oaks handled last years drought OK more or less, but there are a lot of standing dead pine trees.



Yeah, Pines got wasted in Illinois. Lawns covered themselves in dormancy, though. We got two inches of rain in the last four months (1" tonight) and the sod is coming back. Never seen guys bale dead grass till this year. We'd like to sneak one more cutting in.


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## StihlyinEly (Aug 16, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> The weight, the inboard clutch and the well known air filter issue l take their toll



Not a problem for real men.


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## SawTroll (Aug 16, 2012)

StihlyinEly said:


> Not a problem for real men.



Use a larger saw then, as that's what it feels like anyway! :hmm3grin2orange:


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## H 2 H (Aug 16, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> There actually are no 25" bars, even though Stihl calls their 24" bars that....
> 
> Of course you are right that a 60cc saw is more versatile than the 50cc ones, provided they are similar saws.




*NO* 25" Stihl bars LOL

They have 24" and 25" bars I just bought a Stihl 25" "ES" bar last month and they had a 24" "ES" as while; the reason I got the 25" is I had several chains my Dad had made up for his bars before he died last December


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## nmurph (Aug 16, 2012)

Stihl can call them whatever they want, but they use 84DL's like the bars that every other manufacturer calls 24".


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## H 2 H (Aug 16, 2012)

Maybe I should delete my last post again because .....


Or maybe take the Stihl 25" "ES" back to the saw shop in Woolley and tell them Stihl doesnt make a 25" "ES" bar :jester:


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## StihlyinEly (Aug 16, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> Use a larger saw then, as that's what it feels like anyway! :hmm3grin2orange:



Well played!


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