# Sealing Stove Pipe on a Metal Roof



## wborum (Nov 30, 2011)

Just got a wood stove to put in my shop and I need some ideas on how to seal the pipe when I go through the roof. Its made out of corrugated roof metal. I plan on using the double walled pipe so heat should not be an issue but keeping it from leaking around the hole could be a problem. Thanks Billy


----------



## timbur (Nov 30, 2011)

Aztec Washer has a product called Masterflash available in hi heat silicone to seal a chimney through-the-roof application for metal roofs .

Tim


----------



## gwiley (Nov 30, 2011)

After pricing flashing and "through the roof" kits I decided that using mutli-wall chimney pipe and some roof sealant were the way to go since mine is for a workshop. Cut the hole in the roof as tight as you can, clean the roof and pipe and apply a liberal bead of roof sealant. Lowes sells a few brands in their roofing section, they just load into a caulk tool.


----------



## betterbuilt (Nov 30, 2011)




----------



## timbur (Nov 30, 2011)

Betterbuilt ,
Your picture shows exactly what I was talking about .


----------



## One Shot Will (Nov 30, 2011)

I used high temp silicone from a caulking gun tube.
Has worked fine never got too hot with the double wall.


----------



## betterbuilt (Nov 30, 2011)

timbur said:


> Betterbuilt ,
> Your picture shows exactly what I was talking about .



This is the common boot we use around here. They run about $80 dollars. The cool thing is they can go anywhere on the roof. 






You have to put steel roof screws every 1 1/2 and a bunch of silicone.


----------



## Hddnis (Nov 30, 2011)

betterbuilt said:


> This is the common boot we use around here. They run about $80 dollars. The cool thing is they can go anywhere on the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




That's what we use. The big ones for a stove pipe are upwards of $130 around here, but well worth the money.

If we use a regular stove pipe jack for a shingle roof we slit the metal the width of the jack, form the jack to the metal on the top edge and push it into the slit. A bit of good quality silicone along the top and sides and screws every few inches and it won't leak for the life of the roof, about thirty years at a minimum.



Mr. HE


----------



## Henry and Wanda (Nov 30, 2011)

Hello,
If I'm not mistaken, I think everyone is missing the point. If a stove pipe comes out of a roof that is completely flat, say in between the standing seams on a standing seam metal roof, then it's not hard to flash the pipe in. But the poster said that it is coming through a corregated roof....so if you put a flashing boot down over the pipe, it will only sit on the peaks of the corregated metal and water can still run down the valleys under the boot !!! This is what I'm seeing in my mind.....tell me if I'm wrong....I've been known to be wrong once or twice lol !!!!!!!!!!


Henry and Wanda


----------



## timbur (Nov 30, 2011)

Henry , 

Look really close at betterbuilt's picture in his post and you'll see what we are referring to , the silicone rubber boot has a metal strip around the perimeter which helps give it strength to keep it in the shape of the metal roofs corrugation , put a bead of silicone caulking on the bottom of the flasher before you put it in place to seal any tiny gaps that the flasher didn't flex into .

I have sold thousands (seriously) of these at the lumberyard where I work , and cannot recall of 1 complaint about leakage .

Tim


----------



## Hddnis (Nov 30, 2011)

Exactly as Timbur just said, those boots form to the metal very well, that is what they are designed to do. Odd twisted shapes and pipes coming up in valleys are no problem with a proper install.



Mr. HE


----------



## gink595 (Nov 30, 2011)

As Betterbuilt posted a pipe jack (dektite) will work. We use them for some roof penetrations. Another option and more extreme is to make a roof curb that flashes with rib covers (depending the roof panel profile).

Here is the detail we use for weather tightness. I just checked price and we sell them for 37.36. for the 7-13" dektites


----------



## betterbuilt (Nov 30, 2011)

I will say I tried to center a pipe in a flat spot and got it perfect, but the boot was larger than the flat space. I thought that it would leak. Since then I've installed 100's and never had a problem. I would avoid having them over a seam. The High temp boots here are 37.40 for the 3-6inch, 67.20 for the 5-9inch, and 103.50 for the 7-13 inch.


----------



## wborum (Nov 30, 2011)

Thanks for the posts. This is exactly what I am looking for. Great info.


----------



## dave_dj1 (Dec 2, 2011)

I wouldn't use a boot like that on a large stove pipe. I would take off the one piece of roofing and cut it (cross wise) in the center of the pipe, get the proper flashing collar for your size pipe and put the top half under the roofing and let the bottom half go over the roofing. Then the pipe should have a storm collar added. 
here is a link to the kit Metalbest 6T-RTK Sure-Temp 6" Roof Termination Kit with Flashing, Storm Collar and Round Top


----------



## gink595 (Dec 2, 2011)

dave_dj1 said:


> I wouldn't use a boot like that on a large stove pipe. I would take off the one piece of roofing and cut it (cross wise) in the center of the pipe, get the proper flashing collar for your size pipe and put the top half under the roofing and let the bottom half go over the roofing. Then the pipe should have a storm collar added.
> here is a link to the kit Metalbest 6T-RTK Sure-Temp 6" Roof Termination Kit with Flashing, Storm Collar and Round Top




That would work great for a shingled roof or a flat roof. But with ribbed roof panels or corrugated panels the ribs of the panels would be exposed.


----------



## betterbuilt (Dec 2, 2011)

dave_dj1 said:


> I wouldn't use a boot like that on a large stove pipe. I would take off the one piece of roofing and cut it (cross wise) in the center of the pipe, get the proper flashing collar for your size pipe and put the top half under the roofing and let the bottom half go over the roofing. Then the pipe should have a storm collar added.
> here is a link to the kit Metalbest 6T-RTK Sure-Temp 6" Roof Termination Kit with Flashing, Storm Collar and Round Top



This type can work. Back when I used to install devilbiss Paint booths we installed this type on metal roofs all the time. I will say if we had a better choice we would have used it. It's like installing a skylite on a metal roof with out the wrong flashing kit. It might work if you can figure out how to make it work. The new silicone or Epdm boots are so much easier.


----------



## Mr Goodwrench (Dec 5, 2011)

*This is how I did it*

HVAC guy has been doing it this way for years, cut hole in tin, cut thimble bend every other ear out, insert in tin bend other ears out and solder, repaint tin. This is my second year has worked great so far.


----------



## dave_dj1 (Dec 6, 2011)

After doing some more research I have found that the "boots" seem to be the way to go, I guess I'm old school. LOL


----------



## Hddnis (Dec 8, 2011)

dave_dj1 said:


> After doing some more research I have found that the "boots" seem to be the way to go, I guess I'm old school. LOL





When I first saw them, several years ago now, I didn't think they would work. Time has proved me wrong and now I love them for how easy they are to install, and mainly because I've never had one leak. I really like the never leaking part.



Mr. HE


----------

