# 075 drill start



## Trever (Sep 1, 2010)

First off, the flywheel adapter and drill tool are my employee's idea. A real good I might add. I am using an old 075 to mill with, and I have problem after problem with the old style starter system. Finally decided on thinking outside the box with my employee's help. I kept the fan housing on to cool the cylinder, but removed the gas tank. You can do this on the old starters (050,051,075) but not the newer style 051s, 076, TS 510, and ts 760 fan/ starter housings. I run a 44" GB double ender CSM with just the one power head. 
The idea was to start my saw with a cordless drill, and run an external fuel tank. You need at least a 18 volt fully charged to turn it over without a decomp valve. I plan on removing my cylinder plug and installing the decomp valve to keep from wearing out the drill. As far as the fuel tank goes, I plan on using a 1 1/2 gallon plastic tank mounted to the mill. 
Who has done this already? Thank you and I will post more pictures as I figure this out. Have a blessed day.


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## mtngun (Sep 1, 2010)

That's pretty wild. I have to give you credit for thinking outside the box.


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## Trever (Sep 18, 2010)

*More pics*

Still working on this setup. Here are a few more pics. I have a 1 gallon portable tank that will be used to fuel it. I probably will not get to work on it this weekend, but should be ablr to finish it next week. I have to say it's pretty neat starting it with a drill! Oh, and I did add a new decomp valve to this one. I had to!!

Trever


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## mtngun (Sep 18, 2010)

Think of all the time you'll save not having to refuel after every pass.


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## Trever (Sep 18, 2010)

Yep. I can only get about 10' boards without refueling now. This should allow me to do what ever I need lengthwise. It is easier starting the saw on its side with the drill anyway. I will work on the tank support this week and I'll post the progress in case anyone wants to make something similiar. Thank you.


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## Hddnis (Sep 18, 2010)

Very clever! 



Mr. HE


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## Rookie1 (Sep 18, 2010)

Very Nice!


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## betterbuilt (Sep 18, 2010)

That's cheating.


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## dancan (Sep 18, 2010)

betterbuilt said:


> That's cheating.



No .... That's Smart Cheating !


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## BIG JAKE (Sep 18, 2010)

Trever-I'd be curious how the missing fan cover will affect cylinder cooling during operation. Looks like it may actually increase airflow looking at it, but the converse could also be true. If you run the saw that way with the cover off make sure you inspect the cooling fins regularly because if it cruds up with sawdust you'll toast the top end in short order. If it becomes a problem you could pay heed to wind direction and mill so it blows the chips away from the fan, etc. Innovative setup Trever!


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## BobL (Sep 18, 2010)

dancan said:


> No .... That's Smart Cheating !



+1. 
I'd be interested to know how many starts you can get from one charge on the drill. Maybe you could even have a manual Brace (as in brace and bit) on standby?

I have one suggestion and that is to put some sort of cover over the exposed fan and starter mechanism. Something like a piece of expanded steel mesh that utilizes the existing threaded holes would suffice and it can have a hole with a guard ring around it in the middle for the starter pin to pass through. The reason for this is if something lands on those fins and/or starter mechanism at WOT . . . . . Whether it's the skin off an operators knuckles, or a spanner, or even a nut flung back in the direction of the operator. 

RE;I can only get about 10' boards without refueling now.
That does not sound right, hows the chain look?


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## betterbuilt (Sep 18, 2010)

I like to see a video of you starting it. Back when I was in the military we had a pump that you had to crank to start and if you weren't fast enough to pull the crank out it would throw you pretty hard. I remember it broke a few wrists.

I really like the gas tank.


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## Justsaws (Sep 18, 2010)

The flange mounted to the flywheel should not have to have any overhang where the tee engages and should not have to be that deep. If anything snags it gets scary fast.


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## Rftreeman (Sep 18, 2010)

That's pretty slick, I'm amazed that the drill will turn it over....


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## Trever (Sep 19, 2010)

*Thank you and more to come*



Hddnis said:


> Very clever!
> 
> Thank you. One of my employees designed the drill tool and the flywheel adapter.
> 
> Mr. HE



thank you.



Rookie1 said:


> Very Nice!



Thank you. I can't wait to mill with it this week.



betterbuilt said:


> That's cheating.



I guess. LOL 



dancan said:


> No .... That's Smart Cheating !
> 
> Thanks. I will work on my tank mount swivel tomorrow and hopefully be milling by Wednesday.





BIG JAKE said:


> Trever-I'd be curious how the missing fan cover will affect cylinder cooling during operation. Looks like it may actually increase airflow looking at it, but the converse could also be true. If you run the saw that way with the cover off make sure you inspect the cooling fins regularly because if it cruds up with sawdust you'll toast the top end in short order. If it becomes a problem you could pay heed to wind direction and mill so it blows the chips away from the fan, etc. Innovative setup Trever!



Thanks Big Jake for the advise. I plan on removing the fan cover after every milling day. It has a recent piston in it. I will post how it works out as I use it.



BobL said:


> +1.
> I'd be interested to know how many starts you can get from one charge on the drill. Maybe you could even have a manual Brace (as in brace and bit) on standby?
> 
> The brace is a good idea Bob! I will let you know how many starts it takes on a freshly charged battery. I use a Craftsman 19.2 Volt and have a wall and truck charger for it. I will keep an extra battery in the truck. YOU HAVE TO USE A DECOMPRESSION VALVE!! I learned this, and make sure it stays pushed in prior to every start.
> ...



I am running a little rich for now. The piston is fairly new. I smoked the last one.



betterbuilt said:


> I like to see a video of you starting it. Back when I was in the military we had a pump that you had to crank to start and if you weren't fast enough to pull the crank out it would throw you pretty hard. I remember it broke a few wrists.
> 
> I'll make one this week for you all. Thank you for your service. I am in the 230th Sustainment Brigade in Chattanooga, TN. I am a fulltime Military Technician for my full time job, and am the shop supervisor for an FMS (Field Maintenance Shop) in Athens, TN.
> 
> I really like the gas tank.



Thank you. I will make some small inprovements and will post as I improve.



Justsaws said:


> The flange mounted to the flywheel should not have to have any overhang where the tee engages and should not have to be that deep. If anything snags it gets scary fast.



I will make another one sometime with your recommendation. I have a few starts with it. The design kicks it out once the motor starts/ fires. There is always room for improvement for anything.



Rftreeman said:


> That's pretty slick, I'm amazed that the drill will turn it over....



It won't without a decomp valve. This saw has around 160 psi. Seeing you have to start with the saw in reverse, there is a screw that twisted inside my drill's chuck (where the chuck spins on the drill) after about 25-30 cranks. It is a cheap left hand threaded oval head screw. I will improve with a better screw. I might recommend a 1/2 inch instead of a 3/8 drill that I currently use.


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## BigE (Sep 19, 2010)

Nice idea there!

One caution - I know my 18V drill sparks inside while running. You can look inside and see little blue sparks where the brushes are contacting. Just be careful with the gas fumes and you should be OK.

When I was a little kid (8 or 9 years old) and couldn't pull the cord on the lawnmower, I used to dream of using an electric drill to start the mower. My Dad would never let me, though, and I didn't know about the various adapters to spin a nut with a drill.

-Steve


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## Trever (Sep 19, 2010)

Thanks Steve. You are right about the sparking with the drill. I appreciate the safety check. 

Trever


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## gunnarfan (Sep 24, 2010)

pretty fricken awesome bro. i've just seen you hitting some of the same site areas that i hang at so i figured i'd comment.

i wonder if you could just come up with a breathable cover that you could just snap on if there ended up being concerns over the fins and cooling. 

this must be why we cut in winter in maine...


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## gunnarfan (Sep 24, 2010)

yeah.. one more thing. i saw discussion of your screw. i've been in a pinch and used old taps to assist in testing old saws that were missing recoils. i wouldn't recommend it unless you want a poorly threaded chuck. not sure if you'll run into this but you may want to get the grinder out and level off the sides (square/octagon) of that screw so you will spare your chuck and get a better grip.


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## Trever (Sep 24, 2010)

Thanks for the advise on the screw. I will mill with it in the morning and can't wait. I have some screws ordered to keep on hand, but I did something better last night. My wife and I went to Lowe's and I bought a Bosch 18V 1/2 drill and Impact combo. It cam with a free battery too!! Man what a difference it is using real tools! I'll try to post some more pics tomorrow after some a few slabs are made.


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## gunnarfan (Sep 24, 2010)

Yeah the old homeowner black and decker firestorm combo didn't hold up for me for long. Was looking into one of the makita driver sets myself. I have an old hitachi hammer drill. 

Thanks for sharing such good ideas.


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## Trever (Oct 4, 2010)

Dang old saw has broke the screw in my new 18V Bosch!! The old gal is too much for a cordless drill 3/8 and 1/2. I am giong back to the starter cover, but will run an external fuel still. More to follow after I get a few parts. 

Getting tired of my old saw breaking everytime I try to mill. Trying to get some pine milled before the end of the year; going back to Iraq.


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## BigE (Oct 4, 2010)

I hear you on that. I'm seriously considering getting a bandsaw mill at this point. Higher cost entry point, but total cost of ownership has got to be less, especially if you factor in how much your time is worth. (Hint: you'd better be paying yourself at least minimum wage. Lots of people aren't).

I spent a good 3 hours Saturday trying to mill up some Black Locust. Trying was the key word here, because for all of that effort, I ended up with one 6' long slab, 24" wide, and 4" thick. Man that is some *heavy* and tough wood!

I ran out of daylight, the logs were too big to move (and had to be moved Saturday), so I ended up chunking what was left into firewood.

-Steve


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## Trever (Oct 5, 2010)

Steve, I hear you on that. Dang shame on the Locust. I know that is alot harder wood than Hickory. It makes good fencing material as long as you put it up as soon as you mill it. If you don't you will be drilling pilot holes for every nail. Also good for cross ties.

More to follow on this project. I will work on it during lunch break today. Have a blessed day

Trever


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