# Not impressed



## CaseyForrest (Feb 19, 2017)

The abilities of the super split is impressive. But if that little bearing under the rack can bring an entire session to a halt with such little use, something is going to have to be done about it. 







I'm also going to send this one to Paul. Something is out of alignment. This is the top of the rack that rides along the cam followers when engaging the rack. You can see on the left side of the rack there is more contact with the follower than the right. 






Which is also supported by the wear on those followers themselves. 







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## CaseyForrest (Feb 19, 2017)

While I realize someone has already been down this road, Im going to start looking for a better option for the cam followers on the machine.

Here is the website for the Smith Cam followers, it looks like there are some options in regards to sealed or unsealed bearings....

http://www.smithbearing.com/SubCategory?catId=7


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 19, 2017)

So it looks like these can be had in Stainless steel

http://www.smithbearing.com/Product...-Cam-Followers/YR-X-SS-Stainless-Steel-Sealed


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 19, 2017)

I found the little bearing under the rack on Amazon... Pricey little bugger in SS....

https://www.amazon.com/Smith-Bearing-YR-7-8-X-SS-Stainless/dp/B00MHS5CR4


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 19, 2017)

And here are the 1 1/4 bearings in stainless...

https://www.amazon.com/Smith-Bearin...&qid=1487535871&sr=1-1&keywords=YR-1-1/4-X-SS


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## Jed1124 (Feb 19, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> The abilities of the super split is impressive. But if that little bearing under the rack can bring an entire session to a halt with such little use, something is going to have to be done about it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Cam followers usually only wear when bearings lock up. I don't know anything about a SS but are there grease fittings for the bearings?


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 19, 2017)

No grease fittings and the followers that come on the SS are all unsealed.

I pulled the smaller one yesterday and let it soak in PB blaster because it was locked up. It worked for a while but eventually seized up altogether.

The only one I'm having an issue with is the 7/8 that sits under the rack keeping upward pressure on the head on of the rack, which would normally equated to the push block on a hydraulic splitter.


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 19, 2017)

Seems there are sealed options in non stainless, but they are crowned...

I wonder if that would cause any issues. It doesn't appear the crown is severe...


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 19, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> No grease fittings and the followers that come on the SS are all unsealed.



I was mistaken... It does appear the the X designation means the followers on the SS are sealed.... Which doesn't say much given how susceptible they are to crud....

Or maybe its the other way around....


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 19, 2017)

I have not found a sealed bearing to replace the cam follower. I do have extras. Mostly, if I'm working with wet or snowy wood, I spray with DW-40 during, or right after the session. Sometimes it is not enough, so I swap them out and give them a soak. It is a pain but that's just the way it is. 

I have a loop of rope to throw over the wedge and push plate to hold the ram out. Then just wedge the spring steel enough to lift the cam follower off the beam, pull the cam follower bolt, and replace. Just takes a few minutes really. It usually requires tapping the bearing on one side or the other to re-align it, to get it to track on the re-tract stroke.


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 19, 2017)

Sandhill Crane said:


> I have not found a sealed bearing to replace the cam follower. I do have extras. Mostly, if I'm working with wet or snowy wood, I spray with DW-40 during, or right after the session. Sometimes it is not enough, so I swap them out and give them a soak. It is a pain but that's just the way it is.
> 
> I have a loop of rope to throw over the wedge and push plate to hold the ram out. Then just wedge the spring steel enough to lift the cam follower off the beam, pull the cam follower bolt, and replace. Just takes a few minutes really. It usually requires tapping the bearing on one side or the other to re-align it, to get it to track on the re-tract stroke.



Ive kept it lubed both during and after splitting. This one I even soaked for an hour and got it freed up only to have it seize right up.

As for keeping the rack extended, if you pull it out and then lift the handle it will stay out on its own.


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 19, 2017)

Your title "Not impressed." is spot on. There must be a better way. And yes pulling the handle up works, until I start tapping a wedge between the beam and spring steel. The handle may or may not stay up to hold it.


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 19, 2017)

@Sandhill Crane what are your thoughts on the stainless bearing I linked to above?


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## c5rulz (Feb 19, 2017)

OP,

How many hours before this failure?


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 19, 2017)

I'm right at 12.5 hours.


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 19, 2017)

Two things (for what it's worth?):

-I about choked on the price. However if it works then it's worth it.
-Second, I am assuming stainless would be a harder metal than the beam. So if the bearing fails, or can not roll because of crap on the beam, the beam material may wear faster than the bearing material. I have heard people say they have had to fill/weld their grooved beam after a period of years. That's something I hope to avoid.


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 19, 2017)

Sandhill Crane said:


> Two things (for what it's worth?):
> 
> -I about choked on the price. However if it works then it's worth it.



As did I..... But given the environment its designed for, I wonder if its sealed better. I may call Smith tomorrow and ask.



Sandhill Crane said:


> -Second, I am assuming stainless would be a harder metal than the beam. So if the bearing fails, or can not roll because of crap on the beam, the beam material may wear faster than the bearing material. I have heard people say they have had to fill/weld their grooved beam after a period of years. That's something I hope to avoid.



I'm wondering how its possible to have this bearing stop rolling and not have issues with the rack returning. Mine wouldn't return at all with the bearing frozen unless I push it. Couple that with the fact corrosion would be a non issue....


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## LoveStihlQuality (Feb 19, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> The abilities of the super split is impressive. But if that little bearing under the rack can bring an entire session to a halt with such little use, something is going to have to be done about it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Pretty crappy looking welds. Looking forward to what you find out. 

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## Jed1124 (Feb 19, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> I'm right at 12.5 hours.


Wow. That's nothing. Is this a common problem with these?
What are the chances that SS will make good and send you some new parts? I've heard they are great to deal with. You might have got defective bearings for them to go that fast.


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## T. Mainus (Feb 20, 2017)

Maybe Sandhill will cut you a deal for that Timberwolf he has for sale...

I have never really looked at a Super split before, I have heard you guys saying the bearings were the weak point on the machine. But to only get 12 hours out of a supposedly commercial piece of equipment for what you pay for one would really have me ticked off. Hopefully they work with you on a solution.


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 20, 2017)

Don't get me wrong.... I'm not upset enough to get rid of it. Even babying the bearing, it kept 4 of us busy all morning. If what turned out to be a $15 bearing is the majority of the maintenance I have to perform on this for the output it gives... Ill take it. Its just one of those things where its hard to believe a $15 bearing can bring everything to a halt!

I'm sure its just a matter of coincidences aligning at the right time that mine went so soon. I hear of others that get years out of the little bearing. Others still have use the machine with the bearing seized up.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 20, 2017)

The problem with the cam follower bearing is there is a hole (in the center where the bolt goes through). This in an automotive engine allows oil to get in the bearing and lube it, but in our application it allows moisture and dirt to enter the bearing. Once it starts to lock up you can get it free with a spray lube, bit the damage is already usually done. It has flat spotted one side and will start to lock up more often.

On mine, I replaced the small one on the rack with 2-sealed roller bearing that when put together are the same width as the original cam follower bearing. I also don't need to keep lubing the beam as I used to anymore either.

If I get up to my woodyard today, I will snap a picture of the roller bearings for you.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 20, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> As for keeping the rack extended, if you pull it out and then lift the handle it will stay out on its own.



I'm like Sandhill and mine will also retract sometimes when I drive a wedge under the rack. All I do now is pull it out and put a large C-clamp over the rack and clamp it to the wedge at full extension.


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 20, 2017)

mijdirtyjeep said:


> The problem with the cam follower bearing is there is a hole (in the center where the bolt goes through). This in an automotive engine allows oil to get in the bearing and lube it, but in our application it allows moisture and dirt to enter the bearing. Once it starts to lock up you can get it free with a spray lube, bit the damage is already usually done. It has flat spotted one side and will start to lock up more often.
> 
> On mine, I replaced the small one on the rack with 2-sealed roller bearing that when put together are the same width as the original cam follower bearing. I also don't need to keep lubing the beam as I used to anymore either.
> 
> If I get up to my woodyard today, I will snap a picture of the roller bearings for you.



I've been looking at roller bearings and I can find the right inner and outer diameter but I can't find ones that are the right width to double them up. 


Sent from a field


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 20, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> I've been looking at roller bearings and I can find the right inner and outer diameter but I can't find ones that are the right width to double them up.
> 
> 
> Sent from a field



Yeah, I have a good bearing guy here locally and just brought the original cam follower in. He went in the back room with the cam follower bearing and came back with an almost perfect match.

I will see if there is part numbers on them and get you the info. Bonus was both together cost less than one cam follower!

I also replaced one on the under side of the rack with a sealed roller bearing (single narrower one) and so far it is holding up.


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 20, 2017)

I have a bearing shop locally. I should take the follower in and get something worked out. Having a sealed bearing just makes sense given the application. 


Sent from a field


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 20, 2017)

I got the idea from the Dr copy of the SS. It has just one larger sealed bearing that runs on top of the rack. I was going to cut the top out of the cam follower holder to fit one larger one, but ended up trying this first.


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 20, 2017)

I typically use my SS in the same spot, splitting into the conveyor. I'm set up so the wedge end of the machine is a touch higher, which aides the spring retract somewhat. Now that I've added wheels to the wedge end I'll have to find something, a 2" x 12" crossways or something, to roll up on. Elevating it also helps keep the crap off the beam and table. It vibrates off on its own.


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## Guswhit (Feb 20, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> I'm right at 12.5 hours.



Boy that's hard to believe it failed that fast. I have replaced mine, but I didn't realize that the through bolt had a hole in it until after it failed. I lube mine up with WD-40 about every 1 hour now and I'm sure I have way over 100 hr's on this one. Keep us posted and I'd really like to see the double one that dirtyjeep came with and how he made the holder.


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## Rudedog (Feb 20, 2017)

Subscribed. Good thread.


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## NSMaple1 (Feb 20, 2017)

WD-40 isn't really a very good lube. Gets moisture out pretty good.

Trouble is though that a good lube might attract more dirt. I spray my beam with graphite once in a while, seems to keep it going smoothly.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 20, 2017)

Well, forgot to bring my wrenches up to take the bolt off so I could get a part number. Here is the pictures though









As you can see the beam is torn up from the failed cam follower bearings locking up. Have not had a single problem since switching to the double roller bearing. Counted the crates today and have done 16cords and not sprayed the beam once. Also it is returning good with just one spring as the second one broke and I have yet to fix that.


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 20, 2017)

I'll have to see about swapping mine over. 


Sent from a field


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## c5rulz (Feb 20, 2017)

Sorry guys, hydro splitters seems pretty trouble free compared to this.


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## dancan (Feb 20, 2017)

Still worth the effort, I beat my model J for 2 years before I had to replace, it was a rental unit I bought used and made in 86' .

Mighty Mouse Logging LLC


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 20, 2017)

c5rulz said:


> Sorry guys, hydro splitters seems pretty trouble free compared to this.



How many cords a year you do with your Speeco? So far this year my SS has had over 20cords put though it and will get anothe 20-30cords before the summer is over! Besides the return spring and that one bearing I haven't had any other problems.


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## dancan (Feb 20, 2017)

dancan said:


> Still worth the effort, I beat my model J for 2 years before I had to replace, it was a rental unit I bought used and made in 86' .
> 
> Mighty Mouse Logging LLC



But , if the new bearing gives me any grief , a trip with bearings in hand to one of my bearing guys will happen , thanks for the hack mijdirtyjeep .


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## Guswhit (Feb 20, 2017)

mijdirtyjeep said:


> Well, forgot to bring my wrenches up to take the bolt off so I could get a part number. Here is the pictures though
> 
> View attachment 559504
> 
> ...



So is that the factory bracket and bolt? You just replaced the single with 2 thin bearings?


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## Guswhit (Feb 20, 2017)

c5rulz said:


> Sorry guys, hydro splitters seems pretty trouble free compared to this.



Won't start after sitting out in the winter without help. Can't move them around without a truck or utility vehicle easily. Burn 2 or 3 times the fuel per cord. I can go on, this is just my observation since my purchase. I will concede that there are pieces and sizes of logs that I don't take/use anymore, or set aside for the outdoor wood burner, but I'm getting older and don't want to #$%^&* with that type of wood either.


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## reddogrunner (Feb 20, 2017)

PB Blaster makes some good silicone and Teflon based lubricants you may want to try over WD-40 or, there is a very good firearm lube I use called CLP Breakfree. Wonder if those might give you better performance. Interesting that 1 little bearing is that poorly designed.


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## sunfish (Feb 20, 2017)

I got 7 years out of the original bearing on mine, just replace it the other day. It was froze up, but the splitter still worked 
pretty good. I just have the lowly J model though and have only split 70-80 cords.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 20, 2017)

Guswhit said:


> So is that the factory bracket and bolt? You just replaced the single with 2 thin bearings?



Yes, everything is factory except the dual roller bearings. 

I did put a small machine washer on the outside of the bearings and one in between them so they were not touching.


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 20, 2017)

reddogrunner said:


> PB Blaster makes some good silicone and Teflon based lubricants you may want to try over WD-40 or, there is a very good firearm lube I use called CLP Breakfree. Wonder if those might give you better performance. Interesting that 1 little bearing is that poorly designed.



I have the graphite and teflon versions of the PB blaster. The hard part is getting it _into_ the bearing.

Paul called me back today and suggested drilling the 1/4" bolt so I can either grease the follower or shoot lube right into the center of the follower. I di ask if he had any experience with the stainless version of the follower and he didn't, but said he may look into it.

I have a couple new ones on the way but will probably change it out for bearings.


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 20, 2017)

mijdirtyjeep said:


> Yes, everything is factory except the dual roller bearings.
> 
> I did put a small machine washer on the outside of the bearings and one in between them so they were not touching.



I just noticed you are in MI.


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## madalien (Feb 20, 2017)

What if you modified it to use blocks of PTFE to slide on as apposed to bearings that will fail.

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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 20, 2017)

I was looking for UHMW-PE on Graingers site. I found tube stock with 1/4" center and 7/8" outer diameter, by 3' long for $35.85

Does anyone think that that would work instead of a bearing?

Edit: Item# 1UWN3


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## madalien (Feb 20, 2017)

I think it would work better and if you lubed the sliding surfaces with graphite even better.

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## CaseyForrest (Feb 21, 2017)

The difficult part, not that it will be all that difficult, will be attaching it to the holder.

@Sandhill Crane I think the best bet would be flat stock. And you don't need to source it, go buy one of those white plastic cutting boards, thats UHMWPE.

ETA: I just noticed your dimensions.... I'm wondering if it wont wear through where the bolt goes through.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 21, 2017)

I tried to cut a piece of snowmobile track slider rail down thinking it would glide along the beam. I put it in there, and while it would go out just fine, it did not want to return. That tension spring puts a lot of downforce on that bearing.


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## c5rulz (Feb 21, 2017)

mijdirtyjeep said:


> How many cords a year you do with your Speeco? So far this year my SS has had over 20cords put though it and will get anothe 20-30cords before the summer is over! Besides the return spring and that one bearing I haven't had any other problems.





Guswhit said:


> Won't start after sitting out in the winter without help. Can't move them around without a truck or utility vehicle easily. Burn 2 or 3 times the fuel per cord. I can go on, this is just my observation since my purchase. I will concede that there are pieces and sizes of logs that I don't take/use anymore, or set aside for the outdoor wood burner, but I'm getting older and don't want to #$%^&* with that type of wood either.




I am just a firewood hack who views cutting firewood as a harmless pastime to get through Winter in this God forsaken climate. Gives me something to do in the Winter and is pretty good exercise. I do 20 - 28 Cord/year. On track to do more this year though. The B & S on the Speeco almost always starts on the first pull but it resides in a heated garage. The only problem is the valve started leaking the first year. I complained and was sent a new valve however it is sitting in a box. I also bought a seal kit for it and thought the price was too much. So I went down to the local hydraulic shop and they made me 3 more complete kits for under $5. I put one in and it runs fine to this day. I have had it 4 years.

Note pics are a couple weeks old, there is 3 full cord split on the end right now and room for one more on the pallets now in place. 

Here is a little journey of my Winters:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/places-to-cut-wood.229574/

OH PICS, everyone loves pics. This is what I am working on right now.







The last two are a new site I am moving to, but haven't gotten around to it yet, I have exclusive rights to this place.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 21, 2017)

c5rulz said:


> I am just a firewood hack who views cutting firewood as a harmless pastime to get through Winter



I think that's how most of us that sell wood started out!
One winter we have a little more wood than we needed so we sell a cord or two. After we sold the first cord or two we think, well that was not bad and split a little extra the following year. Next thing you know you need to fill at least one of these every weekend during the off season




So you can fill these




but you do get to take a break and wrap these on the days you take off from splitting 





Word to the wise-don't ever sell that first cord of wood! If you do, there will be days it will have you thinking  did I get myself into


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## c5rulz (Feb 21, 2017)

Impressive Mijdirtyjeep,

I have thought about different more efficient splitters. But then you need much more equipment. Since I am almost always by myself, it would not be cost effective.

I get some pretty good exercise though too.


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## Marshy (Feb 21, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> No grease fittings and the followers that come on the SS are all unsealed.
> 
> I pulled the smaller one yesterday and let it soak in PB blaster because it was locked up. It worked for a while but eventually seized up altogether.
> 
> The only one I'm having an issue with is the 7/8 that sits under the rack keeping upward pressure on the head on of the rack, which would normally equated to the push block on a hydraulic splitter.


PB blaster is a penetrant not a lubricant. The same argument can be made about WD40. I don't care what the bottle says, don't use it on roller bearings as a lube you will cut the bearing life short. Probably not that big of a deal as it sounds like the bearing was toast before you applied the PB anyways.


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## GVS (Feb 21, 2017)

reddogrunner said:


> PB Blaster makes some good silicone and Teflon based lubricants you may want to try over WD-40 or, there is a very good firearm lube I use called CLP Breakfree. Wonder if those might give you better performance. Interesting that 1 little bearing is that poorly designed.



The bearing itself isn't a poor design but it's application -- not so good!


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## reddogrunner (Feb 21, 2017)

PB the brand, makes some excellent lubricants. I did not say PB Blaster.  I do know the difference


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 21, 2017)

My bearings showed up today. 






The McGill bearing is a little different on the inside, but basically the same thing. 


Sent from a field


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## Hinerman (Feb 23, 2017)

reddogrunner said:


> PB Blaster makes some good silicone and Teflon based lubricants you may want to try over WD-40 or, there is a very good firearm lube I use called CLP Breakfree. Wonder if those might give you better performance. *Interesting that 1 little bearing is that poorly designed*.



What is more interesting to me is that Super Split refuses to address the problem and replace the poorly designed bearing with one better designed for the application for which it is being used. They must have bought a couple thousand and are waiting until they are gone.

I wonder if Split Second customers are having the same issue.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 23, 2017)

Hinerman said:


> What is more interesting to me is that Super Split refuses to address the problem and replace the poorly designed bearing with one better designed for the application for which it is being used. They must have bought a couple thousand and are waiting until they are gone.
> 
> I wonder if Split Second customers are having the same issue.



Seeing the Split Second looks like it uses a Cam follower bearing just like the SS I would guess with time it is going to fail just like the SS.

I am wondering about the DR RapidFire, as it uses a single (looks to be 1" O.D.) roller bearing instead of a cam follower on the top of the rack.

The DR is where I go the idea of using a roller bearing. I was looking over one at TS and thought I would give it a shot. 

If you pause this video at the 4sec mark it shows the single roller bearing.


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## sunfish (Feb 23, 2017)

Hinerman said:


> What is more interesting to me is that Super Split refuses to address the problem and replace the poorly designed bearing with one better designed for the application for which it is being used. They must have bought a couple thousand and are waiting until they are gone.
> 
> I wonder if Split Second customers are having the same issue.


This is not a common issue, but the bearing is considered a wear item and will need replacing at some point


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 23, 2017)

Hydraulic splitters are pretty hands free maintenance wise. Put gas in them, change the engine oil once or twice a year, throw a tarp over them till the next time you need it.

That's just not my experience with a kinetic splitter. Once you get your head around the general fidgetting with them, your good to go. 

The bearing, cam roller, whatever...needs constant attention, cleaned, lubbed, taken off and unfroze, etc. Only takes a minute or five, then back splitting.


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## sunfish (Feb 23, 2017)

Sandhill Crane said:


> Hydraulic splitters are pretty hands free maintenance wise. Put gas in them, change the engine oil once or twice a year, throw a tarp over them till the next time you need it.
> 
> That's just not my experience with a kinetic splitter. Once you get your head around the general fidgetting with them, your good to go.
> 
> The bearing, cam roller, whatever...needs constant attention, cleaned, lubbed, taken off and unfroze, etc. Only takes a minute or five, then back splitting.


I've had a completely different experience with the Super Split than you have. Only replaced a couple of bearings.

But I've only split 70-80 cords in 7 years and the splitter stays in a shed when not used.


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 23, 2017)

I ordered the UHMW-PE tubing to try. 1/4" hole, 7/8" outside dia. My thought is even if it does not roll like a bearing, it should slide and not groove the beam. If it wears out, I'll have 3' of stock to make more. If it doesn't work, I'll turn it 90*, and drill a hole to mount a 1" piece of it length ways, so it slides like a sled, on the bottom radius of the circle. Just a narrow strip to ride on. Should be here Friday.

Have not used the SS since the wagon wheel mod. Wood lot is super wet and don't want to rut it up with the forklift moving logs. Hard not to jump out there when it hits 50* and the sun pops out. Lots of wind to dry it out, then rains a bit. Patience...


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 23, 2017)

Ill look forward to your report. I think I may have time to make it to the local bearing supplier tomorrow.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 24, 2017)

Hope the UMHW-PE roller works for you. 

When I tried the snowmobile track slides (UMHW) cut into a slice that fit in where the bearing went, it did not work for me. It would slide out and split the piece of wood, but the return springs were not strong enough to pull the rack back with it on there. I had to grab the rack and manually help it back. 

You all have seen the grove on the top of my beam so that might have made it worse as far as sliding goes as it's kinda rough. 

I have thought about bolting a thin strip in front of the push plate to act as a sweeper on the beam. Figured if it wa narrow, it wouldn't cause much drag. I dragged it home yesterday from the woodyard to do some maintenance and modifie the engagement handle, maybe I will try to make a bracket to hold the UMHW to the front of the pusher plate and see if it works.


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 24, 2017)

Somebody is going to hit on something at this rate.
I would be curious to know how many SS Paul sold last year.
When I joined the site, one occasionally heard about a kinetic and it peaked my interest. Several years went by before I could order one because I bought a forklift first to handle logs. 

UPS just came with the UHMW-PE stock
Rain day...hard to believe, but now I have a new garage project.


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 24, 2017)

I


mijdirtyjeep said:


> Well, forgot to bring my wrenches up to take the bolt off so I could get a part number. Here is the pictures though
> 
> View attachment 559504
> 
> ...



@mijdirtyjeep 

What is the OD of the bearings you used? I'm finding 3/4" OD bearings that have the other 2 dimensions right.. But not sure of the reduction in OD is going to be an issue.


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 24, 2017)

Or Im finding them with a 5/16 id. Wouldn't be anything to drill out the holder.


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## c5rulz (Feb 24, 2017)

So what does a guy with minimal mechanical aptitude do regarding getting one of these inertia splitters fixed as they seem to need pretty frequent attention. Hydraulic shops will work on most worst case scenarios for a hydro splitter. Hydro shops are pretty common. So what do you do when your SS, DR crap out?


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## Waltzie (Feb 24, 2017)

I am not sure that one thread about a $15 part speaks to the failed reliability of a SS.

I have a hydro with a 4 way, a splitter that attaches to my 80hp skid steer, and a SS HD model. Hands down the SS is the go to, and that is processing ugly free wood dropped off from tree services.

I keep a can of WD40 or PB and spray the bearing every hour or so, and no problems at all so far with 100 cords give or take through it.

I know the WD is not the best option for lubrication, but it also clears the beam of any accumulated sap. 

Like I said the bearing that costs less than a tankful of splitter fuel, and would take about as long to change as it would to fill the tank is going strong after 100 cords.


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 24, 2017)

My SS is also my go to splitter. The TW-6 is for sale in the AS classifieds.


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 24, 2017)

Yep, I agree. What I'm not impressed with is the bearing itself, not the splitter.


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 25, 2017)

Casey, I think that's a double negative.


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 25, 2017)

I have the UHMW-PE made and mounted. As someone else said much earlier, I think it will develop a flat spot just sitting. So far however, it seems to work. Just need two years product development and testing. The material is soft and picks up stuff from the beam. Still rolling at this point.


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## Little Al (Feb 25, 2017)

I don't know if it can be done for/on your machine but a splitter we have had a similar problem we had difficulty sourcing replacements,which failed sooner than the originals, we had 2 steel sleeves & bronze sleeve X 2 made,the steel one was a tight fit & the bronze revolved on it. The bronze one was drilled & a grease nipple fitted to provide lubrication it's still going strong 18 month on, the bronze has a pressed on steel outer ring so it revolves on the inner sleeve.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 25, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> I
> 
> 
> @mijdirtyjeep
> ...



I just brought it last night back to my woodyard in Whitehall after doing some maintenance and engagement handle mods.

I am heading out today to pick up a 2/cord load of already split oak with the big trailer for my bundleing operation. It's from a new source so hopefully it's quality stuff. My other source just can't keep up and ran out of wood. Kinda figured he would @ $100/cord all oak split off the processsor right into my dump trailer 

When that is done, I will run over to the woodyard and try to bet you a measurement.


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## sunfish (Feb 25, 2017)

c5rulz said:


> So what does a guy with minimal mechanical aptitude do regarding getting one of these inertia splitters fixed as they seem to need pretty frequent attention. Hydraulic shops will work on most worst case scenarios for a hydro splitter. Hydro shops are pretty common. So what do you do when your SS, DR crap out?


This thread is about one small inexpensive bearing that takes 5 minutes or less to replace.

The SS doesn't ever crap out.


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## Hinerman (Feb 25, 2017)

sunfish said:


> This is not a common issue, but the bearing is considered a wear item and will need replacing at some point



Do you think there is a better bearing that could be used? One designed for greater longevity and requires less maintenance? Does a closed bearing make more sense? I honestly don't have a clue.


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 25, 2017)

So far it rolls well, but I have not fired the splitter up yet to try it.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 25, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> I
> 
> 
> @mijdirtyjeep
> ...





Hinerman said:


> Do you think there is a better bearing that could be used? One designed for greater longevity



Only for a fellow AS member would I tear my SS back apart in the cold so I could get a pic of the S/N on a bearing. 




2 of these together with a thin machine washer in between the two have worked great so far. Will put another 3 cords through it by Sunday night for a total of 19-cords on these bearings. 

I don't spay me beam anymore and do t bother to clean off the build up either!


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 25, 2017)

mijdirtyjeep said:


> Only for a fellow AS member would I tear my SS back apart in the cold so I could get a pic of the S/N on a bearing.
> 
> View attachment 560492
> 
> ...



Thanks... Looks to be a 3/4" OD bearing.

ETA: width looks to be .2812 each. Overall width on the follower is .5625 so it looks like they will just fit. How thick is the machine washer you're using?


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 25, 2017)

Ok... So if I drill out the holder to accept a 3/8" bolt.... Its 13/32 wide. Says it is sealed even though the picture doesn't allude to such...

https://www.amazon.com/Kilian-D-2269-Outside-Diameter-Bearing/dp/B003XU6QTS


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## sunfish (Feb 25, 2017)

Hinerman said:


> Do you think there is a better bearing that could be used? One designed for greater longevity and requires less maintenance? Does a closed bearing make more sense? I honestly don't have a clue.


I don't know Thomas, but these guys are working on it.
I'm fine with the original.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 25, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Thanks... Looks to be a 3/4" OD bearing.
> 
> ETA: width looks to be .2812 each. Overall width on the follower is .5625 so it looks like they will just fit. How thick is the machine washer you're using?



There is no washer in between. That was my mistake. When I put them back in after taking the pic for you I looked for 10min thinking I lost the washer, but there was no washer to loose


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 26, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Ok... So if I drill out the holder to accept a 3/8" bolt.... Its 13/32 wide. Says it is sealed even though the picture doesn't allude to such...
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Kilian-D-2269-Outside-Diameter-Bearing/dp/B003XU6QTS



I am pretty sure you could use that bearing with no problems, after you drill the holder out. 

It is an expensive bearing at $20/each though. 2 of the small bearing I am using only run $6 for both. 

The expense does not bother me as bad as the ability to by local and get it the day I have a problem. I need my SS running and don't have time to wait for a bearing to be shipped to me. Same goes with the return springs that I just replaced. I could not find a similar length at any local store, so I just changed/modified where it attach to the beam. This way if one does happen to break, I just need to run to the local hardware store for a replacement.


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 26, 2017)

I tried my local bearing supplier and he'd have to order something to fit the oe follower. That includes doing what you did with the 2 single row bearings. Years ago this used to be the place to take a one off, can't find it anywhere bearing and they'd have it on the shelf. Not the case anymore. So I'm stuck to ordering no matter what.

AND I'm that guy that wants to dabble and be different.


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## WoodTick007 (Feb 27, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> I'm right at 12.5 hours.


Wow. . .that is pathetic. I am sorry your having problems. Perhaps you could place the bearings in a baggie of lubricant and vacuum seal it for a period of time. It should draw lube/oil into the bearings.
Seems like at should last longer than 12 hours.


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## Little Al (Feb 27, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> Wow. . .that is pathetic. I am sorry your having problems. Perhaps you could place the bearings in a baggie of lubricant and vacuum seal it for a period of time. It should draw lube/oil into the bearings.
> Seems like at should last longer than 12 hours.


Years back we had a machine that the bearings kept failing as the oil used to lube them drained out, the seals were part of the cage & couldn't be removed I used a trick that motor cycles used for their chains,in days before auto oilers, comprises of 2 containers larger outer containing water smaller inner containing grease heat water until grease melts & reaches consistency of oil, place bearings in the oil/grease,remove from heat & allow to cool clean off excess the lube now stays put longer & bearings stays lubed longer.


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## Guswhit (Feb 27, 2017)

Little Al said:


> Years back we had a machine that the bearings kept failing as the oil used to lube them drained out, the seals were part of the cage & couldn't be removed I used a trick that motor cycles used for their chains,in days before auto oilers, comprises of 2 containers larger outer containing water smaller inner containing grease heat water until grease melts & reaches consistency of oil, place bearings in the oil/grease,remove from heat & allow to cool clean off excess the lube now stays put longer & bearings stays lubed longer.



Someone try this on the kitchen stove and let me know how the woman of the house likes it! LOL. I can just imagine the uproar at my house!


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## mijdirtyjeep (Feb 27, 2017)

I tried heating my connecting rods (used) up in the kitchen oven one time. Put it on 350deg and through them in, went back out in the garage and worked on some other stuff for a little bit. Heard the wife pull back into the driveway and thought I better go get them out before she sees them. When I opened the door, the smoke alarms were going off and the house was full of smoke from the oil burning off them. 

Let's just say she was not too happy with me for a little while.

And for the guy going to ask.... Yes there was beer involved


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## Little Al (Feb 27, 2017)

Guswhit said:


> Someone try this on the kitchen stove and let me know how the woman of the house likes it! LOL. I can just imagine the uproar at my house!


The workshop wood burner is an ideal tool for this would not recomend indoor stove use. I have however put a crank pins in plastic bags in the Freezer to ease the fit in the flywheel halfs


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## GVS (Feb 27, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Ok... So if I drill out the holder to accept a 3/8" bolt.... Its 13/32 wide. Says it is sealed even though the picture doesn't allude to such...
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Kilian-D-2269-Outside-Diameter-Bearing/dp/B003XU6QTS




Casey,I'm not certain of this but I don't think the bearing pictured is meant to roll on its circumference.Looks to me as if its to be pressed into a pillow block and the inner portion rotates or its pressed into a hub and turns with the hub as the inside remains still.


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 27, 2017)

GVS said:


> Casey,I'm not certain of this but I don't think the bearing pictured is meant to roll on its circumference.Looks to me as if its to be pressed into a pillow block and the inner portion rotates or its pressed into a hub and turns with the hub as the inside remains still.



You may be right. The description doesn't mention anything about it being pressed into a fitting although it probably could be.


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## epicklein22 (Feb 28, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> My bearings showed up today.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What's the part number for that McGill bearing? I know I've bought one of those in the past, can't find the Part number though in any threads.


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## epicklein22 (Feb 28, 2017)

BTW, if you guys are wanting some more umph out of your return springs, just shorten up the existing springs. I had one of my springs break at the end and I started expertimenting with what rung of spring I attached to the stud. Now it comes back with avengance and you can fine tune it to your liking.


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 28, 2017)

epicklein22 said:


> What's the part number for that McGill bearing? I know I've bought one of those in the past, can't find the Part number though in any threads.




CYR7/8S


Sent from a field


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## WoodTick007 (Feb 28, 2017)

mijdirtyjeep said:


> I tried heating my connecting rods (used) up in the kitchen oven one time.


A propane torch works well. You just mark rod area with a Thermomelt HEAT-STIK for the proper heat range. Done it countless times inserting piston pins.


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## Little Al (Mar 1, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> A propane torch works well. You just mark rod area with a Thermomelt HEAT-STIK for the proper heat range. Done it countless times inserting piston pins.


Dunking the piston in a container of boiling water for 5 or so minutes works well to free up the piston pin to enable it to be an easy sliding fit in the rod My take is it spreads the heat more evenly than a heat gun of some type both ways work though.


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## WoodTick007 (Mar 1, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> I tried my local bearing supplier and he'd have to order something to fit the oe follower. That includes doing what you did with the 2 single row bearings. Years ago this used to be the place to take a one off, can't find it anywhere bearing and they'd have it on the shelf. Not the case anymore. So I'm stuck to ordering no matter what.
> 
> AND I'm that guy that wants to dabble and be different.


Try McMaster and Carr.


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## clogsplit (Mar 1, 2017)

The good old ss bearing issue, they didn't take care of it but Split Second addressed it from day one. Update your ss with the parts from the Split Second web site, you would need the bearing, spring and housing download their manual and see pages 18,19. The Bearing is sealed, read below......and see the log lift that fits the super splits because they won't make one.
The small cam follower bearing used on the rack return needs to be sealed for a happy kinetic and a happy user. The 3/4” diameter bearing used on most kinetics, corrodes with use and freezes. See below the inside of your unsealed ¾” cam follower bearing after use. When it freezes it slides down the beam instead of rolling which creates wear. The WD40 only helps free the rust so it will rotate again for awhile, hence the small hole in the bolt or spraying the sides of it since it is an unsealed bearing. If you split in cold weather this type of bearing will wear out extremely fast. On the Split Second Log Splitter the cam follower bearing is 1” diameter sealed with low temp grease that will not get sluggish until around -30°F. The housing that holds the bearing is designed to let the beam crud go thru and not get held up around the bearing. The Split Second also has a rack return spring bracket that allows the springs to be tightened depending on use. Please keep the top of your beam and rack clean.


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## WoodTick007 (Mar 2, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> The abilities of the super split is impressive. But if that little bearing under the rack can bring an entire session to a halt with such little use, something is going to have to be done about it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Why is the manufacturer not addressing this for you for free. I would honestly expect free updated machine and with a sincere apology and shipping paid to return your broken machine and a partial refind on the entire splitter. It is not like you spent $600 at Menards for mass produced Chinese stuff. I have watched threads on these where the splitting wedge falls off and the welds looked like thay were put in my a 3rd grader with a $69 Harbor Freight welder. I hope the Koolaid does not wear off for most of you as it appears that. . . well it appears for the money spent you should have received a better built product.
I am sorry to just be so blunt, but it is what it is.


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 2, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> Why is the manufacturer not addressing this for you for free. I would honestly expect free updated machine and with a sincere apology and shipping paid to return your broken machine and a partial refind on the entire splitter. It is not like you spent $600 at Menards for mass produced Chinese stuff. I have watched threads on these where the splitting wedge falls off and the welds looked like thay were put in my a 3rd grader with a $69 Harbor Freight welder. I hope the Koolaid does not wear off for most of you as it appears that. . . well it appears for the money spent you should have received a better built product.
> I am sorry to just be so blunt, but it is what it is.



Well.... I appreciate your candor. I do agree with you on most of your post. One would think that for the price paid, a $12 bearing that could be replaced with a $3 sealed bearing would be a nice improvement. If I started breaking welds... I would get more aggressive with them.

Some of this failure does fall on my shoulders.... I did not sufficiently take care of it as instructed to by the manufacturer and via tips and advice from other users. I thought I was.... But apparently not enough.

I have some sealed bearings here that I'm going to stick in there.


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## OnTheRoad (Mar 2, 2017)

Wow. I thought these things lasted decades on end splitting 100 cords a year. I was considering ordering a Super Split but obviously I need to do more research before spending close to 4 grand. Lots of options at this price.....


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 3, 2017)

OnTheRoad said:


> Wow. I thought these things lasted decades on end splitting 100 cords a year. I was considering ordering a Super Split but obviously I need to do more research before spending close to 4 grand. Lots of options at this price.....



Lets not blow things out of proportion. Its a $12 bearing that requires a little more attention than I was giving it. Nothing more, nothing less. I didnt start this thread because I am unhappy with the splitter. Its that little bearing that I wanted to find a better option for, and I believe thats been accomplished. Ill look forward to @Sandhill Crane experience using the UHMWPE roller......

Let me also add..... You wont find a splitter at this pricepoint that can produce the output of the supersplit. If there was one, I would have bought it because that was my sole criteria. I was very hesitant and skeptical when I finally mustered the testicular fortitude to submit the order with no experience using one. Its difficult to get past the idea that a non hydraulic splitter will work when thats all one has ever known. But thats all gone. This splitter, even with all its idiosyncrasies, can keep 2-3 guys busy splitting for as long as you can supply it wood to split.

ETA: Im one person, there are several that have chimed in that have had no issues with the bearing. That could be due to a multitude of reasons such as time of year, type of wood, dirt, moisture....


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## sunfish (Mar 3, 2017)

Some people do like to take one tiny issue and blow it all out of proportion. LOL

Casey, you've done a fine job dealing with this and keeping a level head about it.


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## Guswhit (Mar 3, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Lets not blow things out of proportion. Its a $12 bearing that requires a little more attention than I was giving it. Nothing more, nothing less. I didnt start this thread because I am unhappy with the splitter. Its that little bearing that I wanted to find a better option for, and I believe thats been accomplished. Ill look forward to @Sandhill Crane experience using the UHMWPE roller......
> 
> Let me also add..... You wont find a splitter at this pricepoint that can produce the output of the supersplit. If there was one, I would have bought it because that was my sole criteria. I was very hesitant and skeptical when I finally mustered the testicular fortitude to submit the order with no experience using one. Its difficult to get past the idea that a non hydraulic splitter will work when thats all one has ever known. But thats all gone. This splitter, even with all its idiosyncrasies, can keep 2-3 guys busy splitting for as long as you can supply it wood to split.
> 
> ETA: Im one person, there are several that have chimed in that have had no issues with the bearing. That could be due to a multitude of reasons such as time of year, type of wood, dirt, moisture....



I am also a one man show splitting for the most part. Since I have been religiously using a lubricant into the hole on the bolt and keeping the bearing cleaned off I have had no issues. I am planning on switching out to the sealed ones you guys have found though!
As for the machines performance, my experience with it goes like this: 
Me: I'm going out to split some wood, just a tankful of gas.
Wife: Okay
Me: @#$%^&*! splitter won't run out of gas, but I'm out of gas 4 hr's later!

It's a lot of money for a splitter, and everyone of us has different needs and wants in a finished product so an S.S. is not going to fit all of our needs. I still break out my hydraulic if I run into some gnarly stuff, but I try nor to get those logs anymore if I can help it. I actually consider how the logs are going to look more now than I did when I only had the hydraulic. Old age fussiness I guess.


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## milkman (Mar 3, 2017)

The R4A-2RS is cheap and easy to find on ebay, 10 for $9.23 and free shipping.


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## muddstopper (Mar 3, 2017)

After reading the very first post, my thoughts where to just replace the bearing with a sealed one. This is exactly what mijdirtyjeep did. Personally, I think using a unsealed bearing to start with is just a poor thought out design. I have never even seen a SS so i am not going to comment on any other parts, design plans, pros or cons. From what I have read from users, is its main claim to fame is speed. A 3 sec cycle time is impressive, but is also easily obtainable with a hydraulic ram. Someone said the price of the SS is around $4000. I havent priced the parts, but for $4 grand I am pretty sure I can build a hydraulic machine that will match the SS cycle times, and produce more power than the SS can even think about reaching.


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 3, 2017)

I'll just add... I have two splitters, both paid for.

One is a Timberwolf TW-6, and I love using it. 
One is a SuperSplitHD, and I love using it.

I did fifteen cord with the TW-6, and fifty cord with the SSHD this past year. 
I'm aiming at one hundred cord again, and I have a much better start this year.
(128 cu. ft. per cord)

The TW-6 is the one for sale....


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## Guswhit (Mar 3, 2017)

muddstopper said:


> After reading the very first post, my thoughts where to just replace the bearing with a sealed one. This is exactly what mijdirtyjeep did. Personally, I think using a unsealed bearing to start with is just a poor thought out design. I have never even seen a SS so i am not going to comment on any other parts, design plans, pros or cons. From what I have read from users, is its main claim to fame is speed. A 3 sec cycle time is impressive, but is also easily obtainable with a hydraulic ram. Someone said the price of the SS is around $4000. I havent priced the parts, but for $4 grand I am pretty sure I can build a hydraulic machine that will match the SS cycle times, and produce more power than the SS can even think about reaching.



I have built a hydraulic splitter, actually it had been under construction for 15 years before I got it to where I wanted it. I am sure I have over $3,000.00 in it of hard currency, not to mention man hours. I didn't have the knowledge to build it that I have now, nor the internet capability back then to find answers/someone else's experience. I have around $3,300.00 in my HD, and I wouldn't trade it nor try and get a hydraulic to take its place now! I am not condemning your talents or ideas, this is just my thought on the situation I am in. The only way I would consider something else today was if I decide to become a larger player in the market and I will go for some sort of processor. Probably, besides the speed, what I like best is that is so mobile. I can wheel it around in seconds down my rows of staked rounds by hand. The convenience of having it so mobile in the area I have to work in is a huge plus! I figure I have to get to about double of my output now to be able to justify a processor, but I'm still not sure I want to. My kid's are young, I'm comfortable where I'm at in life and I just don't want to work 100 hrs a week anymore.
I guess I'm rambling now, you guy's get the point.


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## sunfish (Mar 3, 2017)

muddstopper said:


> After reading the very first post, my thoughts where to just replace the bearing with a sealed one. This is exactly what mijdirtyjeep did. Personally, I think using a unsealed bearing to start with is just a poor thought out design. I have never even seen a SS so i am not going to comment on any other parts, design plans, pros or cons. From what I have read from users, is its main claim to fame is speed. A 3 sec cycle time is impressive, but is also easily obtainable with a hydraulic ram. Someone said the price of the SS is around $4000. I havent priced the parts, but for $4 grand I am pretty sure I can build a hydraulic machine that will match the SS cycle times, and produce more power than the SS can even think about reaching.


J model Super Split is just over $2500 and is what I have. 
I still don't see the need for the HD model, it cost more, but not $4000.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 3, 2017)

Didn't realize they cost that much, I figured they were in the 2-3k area. Wonder why they are so expensive?


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 3, 2017)

sunfish said:


> J model Super Split is just over $2500 and is what I have.
> I still don't see the need for the HD model, it cost more, but not $4000.



Ok, someone else put they were 5k!


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 3, 2017)

My HD with table and Honda engine was 3400. $300 of that was freight charge. 


Sent from a field


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## muddstopper (Mar 3, 2017)

Now that it looks like I will be retired with plenty of time on my hands, I just cant see the demand for speed anymore. I dont sell wood and only burn about 4 cords a year in my stove. My current hyd splitter is plenty fast enough for me. I already have about $3grand in a firewood processor build that I had to put on hold because of medical reasons. I plan on finishing the processor sometime this year, or maybe next, but it isnt a high priority anymore. I have always said that there is a place in a firewood business for a kinetic splitter, but for big wood, I feel a hyd splitter with a multi wedge would work better, if nothing more than to get those big rounds down to easily handleing size. As for the bearing in question in this thread, I cant see all the hoop la. Bearings go out all the time. I have seen million dollar equipment loose a bearing the first day its put in service. $$it happens.


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## Dogsout (Mar 3, 2017)

[QUOTE I didnt start this thread because I am unhappy with the splitter.
[/QUOTE]

When you post a thread with the title "Not Impressed" It would make one believe that indeed you are unhappy with something.


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 3, 2017)

Dogsout said:


> When you post a thread with the title "Not Impressed" It would make one believe that indeed you are unhappy with something.



That would be the bearing. Guess stating such in the first post wasn't enough. 


Sent from a field


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 3, 2017)

As stated earlier, there is room for improvement.

To me, this thread is about sharing possible improvements, not slamming the entire machine.
Thanks... to those who have shared their similar experiences and alternatives.

As for complaints, lets call them short-comings, every machine has them. 

My old splitter...
The wheels and tires were originally too small, and the hitch was on the wrong end. 
It was slow, compared to machines costing 4 x to 10 x more (is that a fair comparison?). 
I had to put two engines on it, and one control valve. 
On the other hand, it served me well for over thirty years...and, I sold it for $50. less than I paid for it.
It is still in use today. When I ask the new owner how he likes it, he says..."It's slow." 
I just think..."It's still a good machine."

I replaced it with a TW-6. I love using the TW-6, but it is far from perfect... 
No suspension!!! (I found some axle-less trailer suspension yesterday on-line that would be perfect, except for the $700. price tag.)

I have not heard anyone on the ArboristSite *that has bought, or used,* a kinetic splitter bash them.


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 4, 2017)

milkman said:


> The R4A-2RS is cheap and easy to find on ebay, 10 for $9.23 and free shipping.



Ive got 10 sitting on my end table right now.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Mar 4, 2017)

muddstopper said:


> for big wood, I feel a hyd splitter with a multi wedge would work better, if nothing more than to get those big rounds down to easily handleing size.



To me big wood is a PITA no matter type of machine you are using. The guy I took over my firewood business from had a Multitek 2040xp with an 8way wedge on it. It was a fantastic machine until you got into big wood. Once that happened, you would spend half your time hanging out the cab window with a pickaroon grabbing chunks to resplit. My back and arms would feel like Jello after a day doing that.


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## c5rulz (Mar 4, 2017)

ValleyFirewood said:


> Didn't realize they cost that much, I figured they were in the 2-3k area. Wonder why they are so expensive?




The special sweetener needed for the Kool Aid is mighty spendy.


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 4, 2017)

That special sweetener is high production. 


Sent from a field


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## sunfish (Mar 4, 2017)

Sandhill Crane said:


> I have not heard anyone on the ArboristSite *that has bought, or used,* a kinetic splitter bash them.


That pretty much says it All. lol


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## muddstopper (Mar 4, 2017)

mijdirtyjeep said:


> To me big wood is a PITA no matter type of machine you are using. The guy I took over my firewood business from had a Multitek 2040xp with an 8way wedge on it. It was a fantastic machine until you got into big wood. Once that happened, you would spend half your time hanging out the cab window with a pickaroon grabbing chunks to resplit. My back and arms would feel like Jello after a day doing that.


 I dont do resplits until I stack, of course I am not stacking a 100 cords a year either. I just run the large rounds thru the 6way and let them pile up. As I stack, I just throw the big pieces to the side and then resplit them all at once. I think a kinetic spliter would have worked much faster for the resplits then my hydraulic splitter since most of those large pieces only needed one resplit.

I spent a few hours at different times, watching a big producer process his firewood. He had a Cordking processor, several different multi wedges he swapped out according to what size wood he was processing. With a large knuckle boom truck, he sorted his logs before processing. As the wood comes off the cordking wedge and drops on the conveyor, he had two smaller hyd splitters, one on each side of the conveyor and his workers would just pickoff the big pieces, respit them and let them drop back on the conveyor. His conveyor laid almost level as he was just filling bins and moving the bins to his kiln. He was shipping tractor trailer loads of wood out, but I dont know how many cords he produces a year. Would a SS speed up his production? Not sure it would. Things seemed pretty efficient and they where producing a large amount of wood. The guy is in his 70's. He only had himself and his son and I think might have been his grand daughter working at the processor. Dont know how many other employees he might of had, but I never saw more than three people at his wood yard. He also had a Builtright processor that he processed 4ft long rounds on. He sold those splits to a few local customers. I know when he was sorting his logs, he was real particular about what he set aside for the 4ft firewood. Never seen any real big wood being processed in 4ft pieces.


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## OnTheRoad (Mar 5, 2017)

The SSHD with the Honda, work table, and tow hitch is $3,248 plus shipping. I wouldn't order it set up any other way. Add in shipping of $300 and you are $3,550 so I was exaggerating about it being 4k. 

Any rate, if the thing needs a sealed bearing that wears out routinely, it should come with such, along with instructions regarding maintenance of said bearing and a pile of extra bearings IMO. That's a lot of money for a piece of equipment that requires end user hacks to serve it's duty. 

Really though, I'm still interested in the SS and do appreciate this thread and the information provided.


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 5, 2017)

I do agree that there are better options for the bearing... Not sure why Paul wont handle that on the production end, but its only a couple dollars to upgrade after the fact.

And look at it this way... Even a Ferrari requires "special" maintenance.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Mar 6, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> I do agree that there are better options for the bearing... Not sure why Paul wont handle that on the production end, but its only a couple dollars to upgrade after the fact.
> 
> And look at it this way... Even a Ferrari requires "special" maintenance.



Agreed and this is just not a SS only thing as even vehicle manufactures put stuff on there vehicles that should be of better design.

Case in point....
Why did my 2500hd Chevy come from the factory with a hitch only rated for 7500lbs (straight towing)? Reason is most will not exceed that and it is good enough.
Why did they not add airbags to the rear of the truck to handle pulling around 14,000lb dump trailers? Reason is most don't do that.
Why did they not put 100hp over stock EFI Live tunes on the truck from the factory? Cause most don't need or want that extra power.

I paid way more for my Duramax than I did for the SS only to spend way more money in aftermarket parts to make it the way I wanted than I did with the SS. That bearing is good enough for the vast majority of users that only split 5-10cords a year.

Also as far as the HD model goes, unless you have some nasty stringy crotchy wood you plan to split, I see no point in paying the extra for it over the J model. Even on the site, Paul mentions this. Now the Honda vs Subaru will always be a debate, but my little 6hp Subaru has pounded more wood out in the last 8 years of service than the average homeowner will in 40-80yrs! The only thing besides changing the oil once a year I have had to fix on it was the pull rope. I broke that trying to pull start so I could get Casey a pic of the bearing


----------



## Sandhill Crane (Mar 6, 2017)

And I still say it should come with four wheels, and forklift tubes...


EDIT:
As mijdirtyjeep indicated, stock is...well, stock. It is where you begin...


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 9, 2017)

I bought my Timber Wolf 3HD with table grate, 4-way complete, for right at $3,500.00 NEW...







I've never stopped it, no matter how big a stringy crotch I roll onto the beam, everything goes right through the 4-way... Most rounds just need one time through, and I have four chunks of firewood.

It's been totally reliable and needs very little maintenance... We love the thing!

SR


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 9, 2017)

Sawyer Rob: 
What is nice about the three point hook-up is you can raise it up to a comfortable working height. You might like it even more with an adjustable four-way.


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## Sawyer Rob (Mar 9, 2017)

I do raise the splitter up and down some, depending on where I want the beam to be. Or if I want the table grate a bit higher to drop the splits into a container ect. I can raise it up.. Best part is it's self propelled, I can drive it where I want it, even in soft ground, and I also use it to move wagons ect...

The 4-way has two adjustments for height now, but I leave it where you see it. That gives me the best size of splits, as my wife runs the wood stove quite a bit and she informed me "that's" the size splits "she" prefers... lol The folks I split for tell me the same thing.

We get a lot of bigger wood, so it's nice to be able to run the big chunks through the splitter a couple times and be done with it!






so the 4-way just stays in one place...

SR


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## c5rulz (Mar 10, 2017)

Sawyer Rob said:


> I do raise the splitter up and down some, depending on where I want the beam to be. Or if I want the table grate a bit higher to drop the splits into a container ect. I can raise it up.. Best part is it's self propelled, I can drive it where I want it, even in soft ground, and I also use it to move wagons ect...
> 
> The 4-way has two adjustments for height now, but I leave it where you see it. That gives me the best size of splits, as my wife runs the wood stove quite a bit and she informed me "that's" the size splits "she" prefers... lol The folks I split for tell me the same thing.
> 
> ...




Very nice,

I'd like to see a Super Split munch on a crotch like that.


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 10, 2017)

I'd like the see the investment beyond the splitter to run a PTO driven splitter including the equipment needed to load that crotch onto the beam. 

There is no direct comparison between the cost of just a 3 point timber wolf and a SS. Because the 3 point splitter isn't splitting anything without something to run it. 

Never mind this thread isn't about comparing splitters. 


Sent from a field


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## Sawyer Rob (Mar 10, 2017)

The tractor running that splitter, I paid $3500 for it and it had a Howard rototiller on the 3 point. Over the years, I've made thousands of dollars doing custom tillage with that combo... Today a tractor like that will still sell for $3500 and the tiller is still worth a thousand dollars... Today the splitter/tractor is still making me money...

I cut all of my firewood logs over an wagon and roll the rounds right off the wagon onto the splitters beam... I "could" lower the splitter to the ground with the 3 point and roll the rounds onto the beam, but I prefer to do it the more efficient way of using the wagon.

SR


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## Wowzer (Mar 10, 2017)

Sandhill Crane said:


> And I still say it should come with four wheels, and forklift tubes...
> View attachment 562835
> 
> EDIT:
> As mijdirtyjeep indicated, stock is...well, stock. It is where you begin...



that is a really nice setup. i though about making something like this but i need it to go down the hwy as well. but i could see this being really handy cutting and splitting in the bush.


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 10, 2017)

Sawyer Rob said:


> The tractor running that splitter, I paid $3500 for it and it had a Howard rototiller on the 3 point. Over the years, I've made thousands of dollars doing custom tillage with that combo... Today a tractor like that will still sell for $3500 and the tiller is still worth a thousand dollars... Today the splitter/tractor is still making me money...
> 
> I cut all of my firewood logs over an wagon and roll the rounds right off the wagon onto the splitters beam... I "could" lower the splitter to the ground with the 3 point and roll the rounds onto the beam, but I prefer to do it the more efficient way of using the wagon.
> 
> SR



So your splitter actually cost you $7000. Because without the $3500 tractor, your splitter isn't splitting anything. 

Just like if I bought a pro driven splitter and used my current tractor, my splitter investment would be what the splitter cost plus $24,000. 

Plus your cost for your second tractor to hold wood over your wagon. Plus the wagon. And you didn't "roll" that crotch onto your splitter beam. So the second tractors cost needs to be factored into your splitter price. 

We've been over this on another thread. You're making an apples to oranges comparison between the investment in your setup versus a super split in an attempt to posit the notion that the super split isn't worth the money. It's an entirely different animal designed to do something entirely different. 

And again, never mind the fact this isn't a "help me pick a splitter" thread. If you have an idea that hasn't yet been mentioned on improving the bearing that rides on the beam under the rack on a super split, I'd love to hear it. Otherwise all you've done is take yet another opportunity to put forth the notion that your $3500 splitter only price that needs a tractor to actually make it split wood, while leaving out the cost of the tractor, is superior to a super split. 


Sent from a field


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## Sawyer Rob (Mar 10, 2017)

Well, I guess I could put the splitter on the tractor I paid $500 for, of maybe the one dad GAVE me?? Then what??

The wagon and other tractor have nothing to do with the splitter cost, as I could have backed right up to the round laying on the ground where I cut it out of the tree and rolled it on.

Do you include the price of everything you use to get your wood to your splitter in the cost of your splitter???

BTW, I didn't "imply" anything, I just told the cost of my splitter and have shown what it will do...

SR


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 10, 2017)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Well, I guess I could put the splitter on the tractor I paid $500 for, of maybe the one dad GAVE me?? Then what??



But you aren't. You're using the one you paid $3500 for.

I'm not trying to get into a pissing war... I simply feel you are drawing an invalid comparison by attempting to suggest your splitter only cost you $3500. While technically it did, again, without a power unit its just going to sit there looking pretty. SO any direct cost comparison needs to include the cost of the power unit. When I state what my SS cost, I don't leave out the upcharge I paid for the Honda, or leave out the cost of the engine altogether.



Sawyer Rob said:


> The wagon and other tractor have nothing to do with the splitter cost,



Yes, they do. If they are a part of your splitting procedure, they most certainly do. Hence...



Sawyer Rob said:


> as I could have backed right up to the round laying on the ground where I cut it out of the tree and rolled it on.



That is the nice thing about having a mobile splitter. But again, you aren't doing that. You're using a second tractor to hold logs and pull a wagon. And again, you aren't "rolling" that crotch anywhere by hand. Let alone picking it up by hand. That crotch got onto the beam using a piece of equipment. If you are going to tout the abilities of a piece of equipment in a direct cost comparison by posting a picture of it splitting something you can't pick up by hand, then you need to include the cost of the machine you had to use to get the wood onto the beam of the splitter. Anything less is disingenuous.



Sawyer Rob said:


> Do you include the price of everything you use to get your wood to your splitter in the cost of your splitter???



No, because the cost of my splitter doesn't require anything else for it to run. $3400 gets me a machine I can start and put wood on. $3500 got you a splitter you needed to add a tractor to in order to start splitting. And that's my only point.... You MUST include that cost if you are going to have an accurate comparison. If you were using the tractor you got for free, it would be a moot point. But you aren't, so don't play hypothetical. HOWEVER, it still would not remove the fact something of value needs to power your splitter or its not splitting anything.

A more accurate comparison would be the smaller TW splitter, the TW P1 or P2. And I know for a fact the SS will out split the P1 using a 4 way slip on.

Saws, safety gear and misc tools are a given and standard across all manners of firewood producers whether they be dabblers or commercial.



Sawyer Rob said:


> BTW, I didn't "imply" anything, I just told the cost of my splitter and have shown what it will do...
> 
> SR



You've made the implication in the past. And since this thread has absolutely nothing to do with "find me a new splitter" there was 0 point in you posting a picture of your splitter, stating the price, and showing that your splitter will split something that you needed another machine to pick it up and place it on the beam.

I can't fit your splitter under the rack on my SS and use it as a bearing. Thats what this thread is about... The bearing under the rack that rides on the beam.

I stated this the last time you attempted this comparison... I wish I had the resources to run your operation... You have it down and it works. I'm envious of not only the amount of time you have to devote to it, but your abilities. My tractor will only pick up about a 1/4 cord of wet wood.... And palletizing didn't work out for me as Id hoped...

But lets keep the comparisons, at least, in the same ball park.


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## Sawyer Rob (Mar 10, 2017)

Ooooh yawn... I guess I'll get my FREE tractor out of the barn, put the splitter on it, lower the 3 point and roll a round on the beam and split it "just for you!"... ha ha ha

Maybe I'll get a beaver to drop the tree and a woodpecker to hammer out the rounds, so you don't try to include my chainsaw in the price too!! I better go barefoot too, as my boots weren't FREE either!! ha ha ha

SR


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## mijdirtyjeep (Mar 11, 2017)

Update and back on topic. Ran cords 19,20 & 21 through the splitter and the bearing is still rolling just as good as the day I put it on there. 

Might get the new wood flooring in the house wrapped up today so I can get away to the woodyard and get another cord or two split this weekend! That's if the wife does not expect me to get the subway tile backsplash installed this weekend. Ugh, I have a new found respect for flooring installers!


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## Guswhit (Mar 11, 2017)

I know what you mean about flooring. When I got this laid, I still had to sand it and then finish it. Darn slave driving women anyway.


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 11, 2017)

mijdirtyjeep said:


> Update and back on topic. Ran cords 19,20 & 21 through the splitter and the bearing is still rolling just as good as the day I put it on there.
> 
> Might get the new wood flooring in the house wrapped up today so I can get away to the woodyard and get another cord or two split this weekend! That's if the wife does not expect me to get the subway tile backsplash installed this weekend. Ugh, I have a new found respect for flooring installers!



I haven't put the roller bearings in yet. But the new cam follower worked like new. I may tinker with it in a bit once I get the neighbors mess cleaned up. 


Sent from a field


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 11, 2017)

OK, so I stuck 2 bearings in side by side..... Going to need some very thin washers/shims between the outside of the dual bearings and the holder. 

Very thin....


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## Dogsout (Mar 11, 2017)

Can you take a "D" shim the size that you need to gap the space and shape it into a washer?


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 11, 2017)

I'll have to google D shim. But it's not to fill a gap, it's to create one so the sides on the bearings will clear the holder. Just enough to turn. 


Sent from a field


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## mijdirtyjeep (Mar 12, 2017)

Hum, that's odd that you would need that on yours. 

What about just not tightening the nut down super tight. Mine has a locknut on the bolt to keep it from coming loose.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Mar 12, 2017)

Guswhit said:


> I know what you mean about flooring. When I got this laid, I still had to sand it and then finish it. Darn slave driving women anyway.



I am so thankful we bought the pre-finished hickory flooring!

I do need to go into the bedrooms now though and pull up the carpet to refinish the original wood floors that are in there. That ain't happening for a while though!

Also did not get up to split more wood yesterday or even today. I was voluntold Subway tile backsplash needs to be completed. 

Good thing my buddy is a contractor and just keeps dropping off the tools that I need and don't have. Yesterday he dropped off a $800 10" Dewalt table sliding wet tile saw.


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 12, 2017)

mijdirtyjeep said:


> Hum, that's odd that you would need that on yours.
> 
> What about just not tightening the nut down super tight. Mine has a locknut on the bolt to keep it from coming loose.



I didn't tighten the nut down that much. Just enough to get it into the nylon. 

Could just be differences in manufacturing tolerance on the holder. The cam follower fits pretty tight. I guess I could also widen the holder a little. 


Sent from a field


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## mijdirtyjeep (Mar 12, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> I didn't tighten the nut down that much. Just enough to get it into the nylon.
> 
> Could just be differences in manufacturing tolerance on the holder. The cam follower fits pretty tight. I guess I could also widen the holder a little.
> 
> ...



You know, come to think about it mine might have been spread open a little when I tried to use a piece of snowmobile track slider (UHMW) instead of a bearing. I seem to remember cutting it a little to wide and needing to hammer it into place. Maybe that spread the holder open just a little.


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 12, 2017)

The cam follower size and mount was upgraded a few years ago to a wider one and larger diameter.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Mar 13, 2017)

Well, I was able to sneak away from house chores yesterday and get up to the woodyard long enough to get cord #22 split up. First pull of the handle and I could tell that the bearing's were not turning as it did not want to return without help. Gunk had frozen between the top of the bearings and the holder. Took my pick-a-roon and levered it up to clean the frozen gunk out. Bearings were rolling fine after that.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Mar 16, 2017)

Cord 23 split up today, and had to deal with the frozen gunk between the bearing and holder again. I couldn't find anything to leverage the bearing up to clean out the frozen gunk, so I just poured a capful of mixed gas onto the beam with the rack pulled all the way out. Lit that on fire and let that heat everything up enough to melt the frozen goo. Worked like a charm and freed it up. 

Thinking for SS's like mine that sit outside in the elements, notching out the top of that holder above the bearing maybe helpful. Clearances are just to tight and it does not take much to lock up that bearing. Next time I have it home, I will try to cut it out with a cutter.


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 16, 2017)

Wish I had the time you do. I keep bringing wood home but don't have time to start processing it. 












I'm still trying to start my pole barn. Another weekend of crappy weather will push it off, again. And I can't get the lean too freed up to start stacking next years wood under it until the roof is on the pole barn. 


Sent from a field


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## Marshy (Mar 16, 2017)

Nice. Now if you could only double the height of that pile with a FEL.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Mar 16, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Wish I had the time you do. I keep bringing wood home but don't have time to start processing it



This firewood bundle business is just a side job to my 8am-4:30pm M-F job, and coaching both my boys baseballs teams and one son's football team. 

Actually I am on bereavement leave as my grandfather passed away. Thought of no better way to celebrate his life than to do what he loved to do and got me into.


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## chipper1 (Mar 16, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Wish I had the time you do. I keep bringing wood home but don't have time to start processing it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If you need any help out there let me know, I'm right here neighbor .
Hoping to get a pole barn going myself.


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 16, 2017)

Marshy said:


> Nice. Now if you could only double the height of that pile with a FEL.



I'm using my tractor and fel to stack it. Kids like to play on it and I have to eventually pull it apart so I'm not getting stupid with the height. 


Sent from a field


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 16, 2017)

chipper1 said:


> If you need any help out there let me know, I'm right here neighbor .
> Hoping to get a pole barn going myself.



Know what these piles are missing?

Black locust. Maybe we can work out a trade. Shagbark for locust. 


Sent from a field


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 16, 2017)

mijdirtyjeep said:


> This firewood bundle business is just a side job to my 8am-4:30pm M-F job, and coaching both my boys baseballs teams and one son's football team.
> 
> Actually I am on bereavement leave as my grandfather passed away. Thought of no better way to celebrate his life than to do what he loved to do and got me into.



Sorry to hear about your Grandfather. I lost mine to young, to young to appreciate what I lost. I sure do miss him. 


Sent from a field


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## chipper1 (Mar 16, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Know what these piles are missing?
> 
> Black locust. Maybe we can work out a trade. Shagbark for locust.
> 
> ...


I can get shag at a buddies property that was select cut 2 summers ago, should be nice by now.
You should know I ain't coming of the locust , but with piles like that who cares if you have any locust .
If you need a hand bucking that and splitting let me know, also done a roof or two when I had my roofing business .
How much do you figure is there?


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 16, 2017)

mijdirtyjeep said:


> Thinking for SS's like mine that sit outside in the elements,


Just read the last couple posts.
Have not thought this out to completion, but....

Bolt a bracket to the push plate sled using the existing six bolt holes.
The bracket would be above and behind the push plate.
An L-bracket would extend above the rack a couple inches.
A stiff spring would hold the rack up off the pinion gear from ABOVE the rack, verses a spring pushing up from below.
The bonnet would need to be modified some.

Now...the "not thought out" part.
There would be down pressure, or weight, on the push plate sled.
There is a brass plate in there, but something would need to be added to reduce friction.
Bearings on the top flange. (same problem as before)
Bearings on top of lower flange. (same problem...dirt and crude)

Guess I'll put the bonnet back on


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## Marshy (Mar 16, 2017)

A wood pile is no place for a kid, regardless of is height.


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 16, 2017)

chipper1 said:


> If you need a hand bucking that and splitting let me know, also done a roof or two when I had my roofing business .



Thats family time. Kids like running the splitter and the wife likes driving the tractor. 

Ive got a cutting table in mind that @Sandhill Crane gave me some ideas on. I think I'm going to work on it this weekend since I have to put off setting poles again.



chipper1 said:


> How much do you figure is there?



I'm not going to fathom a guess. Ive lost count of the number of loads Ive brought home. I think Ive got enough to see the kids through high school graduation.


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 17, 2017)

While the bonnet was off I had another idea:
This photo is looking through a cut out in the flywheel.
You are looking at a flat piece of spring steel, and to the right the coil spring that pushes up on the rack. To the right of it, and out of sight, is the cam follower that rolls on the center of the beam. The shine, below the spring steel flat stock, is the center of the beam where the present cam follower travels.

What if: What if the spring steel was replaced with a bracket that housed a larger "wheel", say from roller blades. I did not measure the distance between the beam and engaged rack height, but it is maybe a tight 3". A lip behind the wheel would be needed for the existing coil spring to sit on.
Requirements would be the height restriction, and width restriction is the bump stops the present bearing slips between. And distance to pinion gear.
I'm picturing a half covered fender with sides, mounted on a shorter spring steel strip for a little give. Coil mounted behind it. The coil could be replaced with a torsion style spring if need be.
The only thing gained is a larger diameter wheel, less impacted by debris. (possibly sealed bearings)


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 17, 2017)

I like the idea of an actual wheel to keep the bearing out of the gunk. Rollerblade wheel may be to large. Either grind it down or use a roller skate wheel. 


Sent from a field


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## mijdirtyjeep (Mar 18, 2017)

I also like the idea of a rollerblade type wheel. 

Now you gave me something to search the web this morning for!


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 22, 2017)

Spring clean up this week. I left logs on the log deck this winter and a huge pile of bark underneath. To get to the bark means moving the log deck, which meant moving the logs.

The UHMW-PE tube I used worked okay, but no better than the cam follower it replaced. 
The four wheel SuperSplit mod on the other hand was worth every penny.

Top photo: I had a pet crate to set the saw on last year, but a log came off the corner of the deck and smashed it. (I always move the saw out of harms way when loading the deck.) This 16" deep tub is just right for starting a saw, and letting it idle with the chain break on when moving round to the staging bench. The slight lip keeps the saw from vibrating off on the ground when running. The saw is a 357XP, and used to be my go to saw for eight years. It was a beautiful mid size saw. 

Recently I talked about THE 357XP sitting on the shelf last year with issues. I was extremely disappointed with Husky. Going back a few years, my only saw for close to twenty years was an 042. Then I added an 021 for cleaning up tops and scattering the branches. The 042's 3/8" tooth was way too grabby for that. Several years ago a friend sold all his firewood equipment and I picked up his 066. Great three saw plan, 021/357XP/066, until I sat a 28" Oak butt on the 066 and pushed it a foot in the ground. 

Then the 357 gave me trouble last Spring, and was in a shop for several weeks. 
Figuring the 357 would be running soon, but needing a saw to continue cutting, I replaced the 066, with an ms661. Love it with a 25" bar. Which was good because the 357 was sucking air or something, and turned out something else was going on, so the 357 sat. The shop I bought it from, lost the Husky franchise or something, so that door was closed. I took it back to the first shop a second time but it still wasn't sorted out.

Last Fall over a Saturday morning breakfast at the local cafe, someone suggested VIP in Grand Haven, MI. It sat in the garage on the shelf for four months and I didn't want to look at it any more, so I made the 30 mile trip to drop it off. I did ask if they would fix it while I wait... just for giggles. Okay, that didn't happen, but...when I did get it back late last Fall I put it on the shelf and continued using the 661. I still didn't want to look at it. The new bar was from last Spring. Didn't even rub the paint off it.

I finally fired the 357 up yesterday. 
It ran great... Really, really great! 
Thank you VIP!!!

And, thank you SuperSplit! 

I was picturing Casey's Kubota today, the whole time I was cleaning up four ATV trailer loads of bark with a pitchfork...


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 23, 2017)

The SS is chomping at the bit to get after all this wood. Supposed to rain this weekend but I can't wait any longer. Poles are going in the ground even if I have to wear a rain suit. Then I can get after putting the new cutting station to use. 


Sent from a field


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 23, 2017)

Rain coming down hard Casey. Looks like you might get a rain day. Used to love the occasional Friday rain day when I did bridge work. Of course, the occasional three days of rain during the week was a bit much, especially when working out of town, or out of state. Worked bridge repair in Reno most of one summer, and on the I-205 across the Columbia River the year they finished it. Michigan mostly though.


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## quotedraven (Mar 23, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> I like the idea of an actual wheel to keep the bearing out of the gunk. Rollerblade wheel may be to large. Either grind it down or use a roller skate wheel.
> 
> 
> Sent from a field


They make small skateboard wheels


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 24, 2017)

Sandhill Crane said:


> Rain coming down hard Casey. Looks like you might get a rain day. Used to love the occasional Friday rain day when I did bridge work. Of course, the occasional three days of rain during the week was a bit much, especially when working out of town, or out of state. Worked bridge repair in Reno most of one summer, and on the I-205 across the Columbia River the year they finished it. Michigan mostly though.



No rain days for me... If the field work gets delayed, I have desk work to do. I used to be able to enjoy rain days!

I may leave early, though. Deal with the auger is if I pick it up after noon and have it back by 7am Monday, its only a 1 day rental.


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 24, 2017)

quotedraven said:


> They make small skateboard wheels



Post #163, second photo shows the push plate return bump stops, if you know what your looking at. Hard to tell otherwise. The present bearing set up goes between them, as there is one on each side. Those could be reconfigured as well.
OH, OH.... Great Idea. (This is a thought process in motion) 

Move the bump stops to the bottom of the beam!!!!! (Okay, time to pull the bonnet again and take another look.)

Side tracked again...


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 24, 2017)

Rain day? Rain has never stopped me. Just put on a rain coat and carry on.


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## Sawyer Rob (Mar 24, 2017)

Well, you gotta be tough to make it in Alaska!! I made it there, so I know I'm tough!! ha ha ha

SR


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## dancan (Mar 30, 2017)

Found this in the Utube rabbit hole , might help someone or give some ideas .


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 30, 2017)

Ive watched that vid several times before I understood what he was modifying.


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 30, 2017)

ValleyFirewood said:


> Rain day? Rain has never stopped me. Just put on a rain coat and carry on.



Well, when your business is working with dirt, water tends to make it mud. When it turns to mud, you...

Can't build things with it.

Can't drive through it.

Can't run grade with it.

Can't pack and perform density tests.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 30, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Well, when your business is working with dirt, water tends to make it mud. When it turns to mud, you...
> 
> Can't build things with it.
> 
> ...



Gotcha. Guess I forgot a few on here aren't doing forestry work in some form or fashion to make a living.


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## RyeThomas (Apr 3, 2017)

I'm at about 20hrs on mine, I will keep an eye on this bearing and write down what you guys find as the best alternative and replace when the time comes. I have taken more firewood this year by far than ever before simply because now I enjoy splitting firewood. 

While I agree this is a problem and it's probably time for SS to change to a new bearing style during their builds and offer them to clients of existing machines, it's awfully funny how some are jumping the gun and using this as a platform for the old Hydro vs Kinetic debate. Really gents it's a $20 or so wear item that honestly could have had a defect from the factory. 

If we can find a fix collectively it will help us all out, heck maybe SS will take notice and change the bearing and this issue can become a thing of the past.

Thanks for the work fellas.


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## CaseyForrest (Apr 8, 2017)

Ok... an update... I have not installed the sealed roller bearings because I don't want to take the time to find shims to shim them so they work.

BUT... I decided that I'm going to put the follower on a routine maintenance program. Since I have 2, I was going to swap them out every cord or so and let the one not in the machine soak in oil. Then it hit me....

Most of us here are old enough to have packed a wheel bearing by hand. Placing a dollop of grease in one palm and forcing it into the race... Well, the follower has a hole on the inner race where fresh oil is supposed to lubricate the bearing... So why not take the same packing philosophy and apply it to the follower.

Pack the inside of the bearing, where the bolt goes through, full of grease. Then on one end, doesn't matter which, leave a bit humped up and then pinch the bolt hole between your thumb and pointy finger. Just pinch the center race as you want to be able to spin the outer race so the grease under pressure is forced into the hole on the inner race. Low and behold, it worked. I could feel the pressure decrease as I spun the bearing and got enough grease into it to force out the old lubricant through the seal.

I believe Ive come up with a solution that will work for me. I'm going to do the same thing on the rest of the cam followers as time permits.


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## GVS (Apr 9, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Ok... an update... I have not installed the sealed roller bearings because I don't want to take the time to find shims to shim them so they work.
> 
> BUT... I decided that I'm going to put the follower on a routine maintenance program. Since I have 2, I was going to swap them out every cord or so and let the one not in the machine soak in oil. Then it hit me....
> 
> ...


Clever,just damn clever!


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## Sandhill Crane (Apr 9, 2017)

I would suggest not greasing all of them. 
I don't think it will be viscose enough for winter use. 
However, if it is working for you, I may try packing one as well and give it a go. 
Thanks.


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## CaseyForrest (Apr 9, 2017)

Good point. 

Perhaps a summer bearing with grease and a winter bearing with oil. 


Sent from a field


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## CaseyForrest (Apr 9, 2017)

Pulled all the followers today after family walk. Greased them all and put it all back together. All of them took grease and the initial addition I could force in just from the pressure from my fingers.


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## Guswhit (Apr 11, 2017)




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## Sandhill Crane (Apr 13, 2017)

Sandhill Crane said:


> I ordered the UHMW-PE tubing to try.


Post #62

Did not work well. 
After a few cord the material seemed soft and developed a burr around the edges, making it wider there and binding on the mounting bracket. It also embedded grit in the surface of material where it made contact on the beam.
Put the original cam follower back on tonight.


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## CaseyForrest (Apr 14, 2017)

Would you like a couple bearings to try? Ive got 10..... Can drop them in the mail, just say the word.


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## Sandhill Crane (Apr 15, 2017)

Appreciate the offer. Yes, of course I would love to try it.
I have two cam followers now and switch them out to soak when one seizes up. Three years now (?) it has worked okay with a bit of regular maintenance. Still room for improvement.


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## CaseyForrest (Apr 15, 2017)

PM me your address and I'll send a couple over. 


Sent from a field


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## Sandhill Crane (Apr 15, 2017)

Not impressed with chainsaw yesterday. First guess is old gas mix but it has been running well up to now with it, cutting several cords. So has the leaf blower run well. Looked at the chainsaw fuel filter and it seemed okay. Dumped the old mix in the car, half a gallon or so, and mixed up new Stihl Ultra.


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## CaseyForrest (Apr 21, 2017)

Update on the greased bearings...

Temps were around the 50's today. Got about a cord split tonite...

I could tell the grease at these temps slowed the return of the ram a bit. It didn't bounce off the rubber bumpers like it normally does, it came to a slow stop against them on the return stroke. Otherwise, no issues. The decrease in return force was only noticeable during the last 3 inches or so of the return stroke.


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## CaseyForrest (Aug 29, 2017)

Just wanted to update..... 8 hours on the clock since greasing the bearings and I haven't had to do anything to them since. Ive greased the rack and flywheel bearings 3 times since.....

I will have to find a much lighter weight grease as the temps fall......


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## Sandhill Crane (Aug 29, 2017)

Husquvarna 357XP update. 
My go to saw, again! 
Switched to Recreational fuel. 
Medium weight saw, 4.4 hp. 
Starts on one pull 90% of the time. 
18" bar.

Casey: Thanks for the sealed bearing(s) for the top of the beam.
Sweet...
Hour meter add-ons: great for maintenance.


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## Rudedog (Sep 1, 2017)

Casey, are you going to be selling these once they meet your satisfaction?


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## GVS (Sep 1, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Just wanted to update..... 8 hours on the clock since greasing the bearings and I haven't had to do anything to them since. Ive greased the rack and flywheel bearings 3 times since.....
> 
> I will have to find a much lighter weight grease as the temps fall......


Casey,what grease are you using now?I think I'd try whats sometimes called cornhead grease,either 00 or 000 grease,I've forgotten which .Very light,almost a liquid.Tractor Supply carrys it.Lubriplate 105 would be a good choice also.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 1, 2017)

GVS said:


> Casey,what grease are you using now?I think I'd try whats sometimes called cornhead grease,either 00 or 000 grease,I've forgotten which .Very light,almost a liquid.Tractor Supply carrys it.Lubriplate 105 would be a good choice also.



I think it was Lucas heavy duty green stuff. Either that or Mobil synthetic. I don't remember. Basically the same stuff I use on the tractor pivots, spindles, wheel bearings. 

Thanks for the suggestion. 


Sent from a field


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## GVS (Sep 1, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> I think it was Lucas heavy duty green stuff. Either that or Mobil synthetic. I don't remember. Basically the same stuff I use on the tractor pivots, spindles, wheel bearings.
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion.
> 
> ...


I don't know about the mobile syn. but the lukas green is a very good grease.One local tractor dealer uses only that in his shop.The grease I said you should try is only slightly lighter than the lucas.


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## CaseyForrest (Nov 4, 2017)

Rudedog said:


> Casey, are you going to be selling these once they meet your satisfaction?



A little late to reply, but I just caught this....

Selling what?


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## CaseyForrest (Nov 26, 2017)

Well, 12.5 hours when I started this thread and then greased all the bearings.

35 hours on the clock now and I haven't touched any of them until today. All of them are still rolling nicely, albeit with a bit of friction since its cold. The bearing that rides on the beam is still free, but it does need to be serviced. It rolls quite freely compared to the rest of the bearings.

I'm going to order a complete set of bearings and load them up with a lighter grease.


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## CaseyForrest (Nov 26, 2017)

So I see there is a "crowned" version of these bearings..... Seems like they would work well on the SS to take up any misalignment in the follower bearing and the uneven wear I see on the top of the rack.... 

Thoughts?


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## CaseyForrest (Nov 28, 2017)

Crowned bearings showed up today. The crown is only noticeable by placing the bearing on a flat surface... and even then one may miss if it not looking for it. I think they'll work great.

Corn Head grease should be here tomorrow.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Dec 2, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> So I see there is a "crowned" version of these bearings...



You have a part number?

My double small sealed bearing locked up, pulled the seal off the side of them and they were full of crud. Ran down to my bearing store and he only had one of the sealed in stock, so I grabbed it and used washers to make up the difference of the second bearing. It's working fine now, just looking for future ideas.


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 2, 2017)

The Smith bearings are yr 7/8 (1 1/4) x or xc. X is sealed and xc is sealed and crowned. Mcgill is either cyr or ccyr (non crowned and crowned respectively) and then the size, 7/8 or 1 1/4. 

I haven't yet installed the crowned bearings due to time constraints. Hopefully today if I get out of work in time. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 2, 2017)

Oh, I also have 8 of those sealed bearings if you want them. I won't use them. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 2, 2017)

The new bearings do take the corn head grease nicely. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 3, 2017)

It's not all that often something simple smacks one upside the head and it actually works. Today was one of those days. 

I needed a way to speed this up and it not be so messy. The syringe worked perfectly to push out the old grease while filling with the corn head grease. There isn't a lot of grease in these cam followers from the manufacturer.

First picture is the bearing right off the splitter that I greased 25 hours ago. Second is after being regreased. Third is one of the new bearings showing that the corn head grease is clearly going into the bearing. 













sent from a field


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 3, 2017)

Oh yeah, the table also got skinned with some HDPE while it was in the spa. 






sent from a field


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## duckman (Dec 14, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> It's not all that often something simple smacks one upside the head and it actually works. Today was one of those days.
> 
> I needed a way to speed this up and it not be so messy. The syringe worked perfectly to push out the old grease while filling with the corn head grease. There isn't a lot of grease in these cam followers from the manufacturer.
> 
> ...


just


CaseyForrest said:


> It's not all that often something simple smacks one upside the head and it actually works. Today was one of those days.
> 
> I needed a way to speed this up and it not be so messy. The syringe worked perfectly to push out the old grease while filling with the corn head grease. There isn't a lot of grease in these cam followers from the manufacturer.
> 
> ...


how's them new bearings and grease working out ?


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 15, 2017)

Haven't gotten a chance to use the splitter since. I had a drain project to get done so thats been taking my time.


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## Sandhill Crane (Dec 15, 2017)

And winter has set in...
Time for an electric SS set up inside Casey.

As this thread is called Not Impressed, here is an update on the firewood conveyor.
I'm still screwing with hydraulic motor alignment on my 'Built-Rite' conveyor. Been doing other stuff, as no hurry to get out cutting and splitting at the moment. Today I need to elongate the 1/2" mounting holes in 1/2" plate about 1/8" for up/down adjustment. Hopefully this will be the last adjustment to dial in a double roller chain coupler. I've drilled and tapped several holes for other adjustments of the 'tube in (sloppy) tube' configuration. Off to town to get some hand files, or maybe a hole saw, before removing the mount again.
Margaret helped get the conveyor inside to work on. Had to raise the tongue enough to tip it to clear the overhead door. Reversing the drop hitch on the duelly, and letting some air out of the tires did the trick, and we cleared by 3/4". Much improved work conditions.
Edit: added photos.


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## Sandhill Crane (Dec 16, 2017)

Finished it up. Ended up getting an air die grinder and making glitter size needles of metal. It worked extremely well. The overhung load adapter (and the hydraulic motor) had a step flange which the mount was drilled for to index it. That also required some grinding to allow the unit to drop a heavy 1/16". Never used a die grinder before. Quite the tool. Still have to test run the conveyor. It also needs idler wheels for the bottom section of the belt to run on. These are also not serviceable as they are captured between two welded washers on a 5/8" steel rod, three wheels per rod. They are hard rubber wheels without bearings. Another design issue that needs addressing after ten years of light use. If I ever buy another conveyor I'll have a much better idea what to look for, especially if it is attached to a processor.


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 16, 2017)

Electric... I like the idea, but the mess in the garage would drive me up a wall....


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## ptjeep (Jul 11, 2018)

Figured I would share the idea that I came up with after reading through this very informative thread. To grease the bearing under the rack gear that has a hole in it, simply use a chainsaw bar tip grease gun that most saw shops have. I think I actually got mine for free a few years back. Works great and is simple but I’m not sure about reloading it with different types of grease but I’m sure it’s possible. This trick has the thinking about the mods that the YouTube guy did with the grease fittings. 

Love my SS!!


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## CaseyForrest (Jul 11, 2018)

Did you drill the bolt or are you applying on the outside of the bearing?

sent from a field


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## Waltzie (Jul 11, 2018)

My bolt came pre drilled. It’s about 4 years old. I use the straw that came with my spray grease can.


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## ptjeep (Jul 11, 2018)

My bolt came drilled also.


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## CaseyForrest (Jul 11, 2018)

Nice. 

sent from a field


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 19, 2020)

CaseyForrest said:


> I'm right at 12.5 hours.





Jed1124 said:


> Wow. That's nothing. Is this a common problem with these?



I have found the more the machine is used the better it works.
2019 no issues.
It is not a hydraulic splitter. It's mechanically very different.


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