# Converted an MS250C to an MS250



## jackjcc (Nov 27, 2013)

I inherited a Stock MS250C from my grandpa. He had purchased the saw for it's easy start and chain tightening system. Well he quickly found out the reliability and durability of these features weren't the greatest. After replacing the starter assembly a few times he gave up on it and tossed it in a box. I had used the saw and was not a fan of having to tighten it every 20 minutes, I'm assuming at this point that something wasn't working right on the tightening system, as it became loose far too quickly.

So...I found the box and thought it would be nice to swap this out to a regular 250, straight pull and normal chain tightening system. I looked it up on the googles and didn't find anything other than a guy who put a 250C starter on a 250. So I decided to try to email Stihl about it, they got back to me the next day and they told me it was impossible, just flat out can't be done. Well I did it, and I am posting this just in case any one else was wondering. The only difficult part was replacing the flywheel, and that really isn't that hard. The 250C has a smaller opening for the starter assembly than a 250.

Parts were all purchased on ebay, except a new bar and chain, here's the list:
Starter assembly(250) $15
Flywheel(250) $15
Bar nuts and bolts $5
Chain adjuster $10
Bar cover $10

So for $55 bucks I converted the saw to more reliable parts, I'm happy that it worked out and no idea why the stihl tech was so adament that it couldn't be done. It was rather easy once all the parts were collected.

I could probably update this with part numbers out of the service manual if anybody else is interested in this.


----------



## XSKIER (Nov 27, 2013)

Thanks for the info. It looks like it'll be a winner now for sure. What do you plan on doing with the primer to complete the conversion?


----------



## jackjcc (Nov 27, 2013)

does the 250 have a different carb than the 250c? I hadn't looked into that like I looked into the parts that were constantly breaking and not working.


----------



## jd2007 (Nov 27, 2013)

I've done the same thing to the PoulanPro & Craftsman chainsaws that I started out with & haven't looked back. The 'easy tightening' systems are junk in my opinion, they just don't stay tight. Congratulations on making the MS250 a more reliable chainsaw!


----------



## farmer steve (Nov 27, 2013)

i bought 1 of the first 250c's that came out.has the useless chain tightner but had the standard recoil start on it. i took in into the dealer for something and the mechanic asked me how i changed the starter rope.told him thats how it came and he said naw.i haven't seen another like it.anybody else have 1? will have check out changin the chain tensioner.


----------



## jackjcc (Nov 28, 2013)

The tensioner was pretty easy. You need one more bar stud, the nuts, and the bar/chain adjuster. The slot for the bar adjuster is already there, you just have to remove a small aluminum I beam looking piece that is used as a filler. Once that's out drop in the adjuster and screw in the self tapping screw that hold it in place. Then you just have to remove the sprocket wheel from the bar, which is done by removing one screw. 

Funny thing about the starter is that there are two different flywheels for the easy start and the standard. If you bought it new I would guess the shop that sold it changed it out and put the easy start onto another customers ms250. I did find a couple of instances of people putting the easy start into the standard saw. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AKDoug (Nov 28, 2013)

farmer steve said:


> i bought 1 of the first 250c's that came out.has the useless chain tightner but had the standard recoil start on it. i took in into the dealer for something and the mechanic asked me how i changed the starter rope.told him thats how it came and he said naw.i haven't seen another like it.anybody else have 1? will have check out changin the chain tensioner.


I worked on one yesterday. Standard starter, quick chain adjust. Sold in 2004.


----------



## farmer steve (Nov 28, 2013)

jackjcc said:


> The tensioner was pretty easy. You need one more bar stud, the nuts, and the bar/chain adjuster. The slot for the bar adjuster is already there, you just have to remove a small aluminum I beam looking piece that is used as a filler. Once that's out drop in the adjuster and screw in the self tapping screw that hold it in place. Then you just have to remove the sprocket wheel from the bar, which is done by removing one screw.
> 
> Funny thing about the starter is that there are two different flywheels for the easy start and the standard. If you bought it new I would guess the shop that sold it changed it out and put the easy start onto another customers ms250. I did find a couple of instances of people putting the easy start into the standard saw.
> 
> ...


 have to check my dad's worn out stihl pile .might be able to find most of the parts there.


----------



## jackjcc (Nov 28, 2013)

farmer steve said:


> have to check my dad's worn out stihl pile .might be able to find most of the parts there.


 
That'd be nice having a pile of stihl saws laying around. I would say its a safe bet that other sized saws may have the same adjuster. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## machinisttx (Jan 3, 2014)

I just picked up a 250c from a scrapyard today. Looks like all it needs to be a runner is a fuel line. The easy start doesn't work properly and I don't especially care for the tool less chain tensioner system. If I can do away with the primer bulb, I will. Did anyone ever find an answer to there being a difference in the carbs?


----------



## jackjcc (Jan 3, 2014)

I never heard nor looked into it further. I figured the guy Who commented would answer back, but he didn't. I haven't seen a 250 with a primer bulb yet...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## machinisttx (Jan 3, 2014)

I guess I'll have to post a pic of mine then.


----------



## jackjcc (Jan 3, 2014)

I'm guessing there is two versions then. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## farmer steve (Jan 3, 2014)

farmer steve said:


> i bought 1 of the first 250c's that came out.has the useless chain tightner but had the standard recoil start on it. i took in into the dealer for something and the mechanic asked me how i changed the starter rope.told him thats how it came and he said naw.i haven't seen another like it.anybody else have 1? will have check out changin the chain tensioner.


 


jackjcc said:


> I never heard nor looked into it further. I figured the guy Who commented would answer back, but he didn't. I haven't seen a 250 with a primer bulb yet...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 my hyrbid has the primer bulb.couldn't find any thing on the carbs if they are the same.


----------



## SawTroll (Jan 3, 2014)

machinisttx said:


> I just picked up a 250c from a scrapyard today. Looks like all it needs to be a runner is a fuel line. The easy start doesn't work properly and I don't especially care for the tool less chain tensioner system. If I can do away with the primer bulb, I will. Did anyone ever find an answer to there being a difference in the carbs?



Different carbs have been used, look in the IPL. I don't know the reason for the different carbs.

Primer bulbs are nice - I would leave it alone if it is not broken.


----------



## machinisttx (Jan 3, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> Different carbs have been used, look in the IPL. I don't know the reason for the different carbs.
> 
> Primer bulbs are nice - I would leave it alone if it is not broken.



I dislike primer/purge bulbs. In some cases it's nice to have them, but generally they are just something else to fail and give problems.


----------



## machinisttx (Jan 3, 2014)

For anyone that is still wondering on the carbs. I haven't yet finished looking at the IPL that sawtroll sent me, but there are/were 10 different carbs in the IPL. So far it appears that they all have a single inlet and the purge bulb adds a mile of extra fuel lines. I can't tell how it all goes together from looking at the IPL, so I guess I'll find out when I put new fuel and impulse lines in it.


----------



## Rdwil (Nov 9, 2014)

I also have one of these and I wanted some more details on how to convert it to a 250. I have had nothing but problems with the adjustments. I wish I had bought the 250.


----------



## SawTroll (Nov 9, 2014)

farmer steve said:


> i bought 1 of the first 250c's that came out.has the useless chain tightner but had the standard recoil start on it. i took in into the dealer for something and the mechanic asked me how i changed the starter rope.told him thats how it came and he said naw.i haven't seen another like it.anybody else have 1? will have check out changin the chain tensioner.


That was a common version in the early to mid 2000s.

Those chain tensioners are really annoying!


----------



## jackjcc (Nov 9, 2014)

I can post the part numbers you need to change it over. It's really not too hard and the best place to get parts is ebay.


----------



## SmackieMackie (Dec 29, 2014)

jackjcc said:


> I can post the part numbers you need to change it over. It's really not too hard and the best place to get parts is ebay.



Can you post part numbers, please? I'm quickly outgrowing my MS170 and have a 250C that I'd like to convert. Thanks!


----------



## stihl 01 (Sep 14, 2015)

i have seen several ms 250c, come though the shop lately some with the standard chain and bar set up and some with the new side mount adjuster as long as the tension is set and the lever locked into place i haven't seen to many problems but i don't use them much i just repair them for stihl as far as the price for berings and such stihl sets the price we just sell them sorry . If u have a dealer who is really being an a****** and belive me i have run into my shear, I would go to stihl.com and i would file a complaint.They take it serious.


----------



## Captain Bruce (Nov 9, 2015)

jackjcc said:


> The tensioner was pretty easy. You need one more bar stud, the nuts, and the bar/chain adjuster. The slot for the bar adjuster is already there, you just have to remove a small aluminum I beam looking piece that is used as a filler. Once that's out drop in the adjuster and screw in the self tapping screw that hold it in place. Then you just have to remove the sprocket wheel from the bar, which is done by removing one screw.
> 
> Funny thing about the starter is that there are two different flywheels for the easy start and the standard. If you bought it new I would guess the shop that sold it changed it out and put the easy start onto another customers ms250. I did find a couple of instances of people putting the easy start into the standard saw.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I have done this many times. I thank YOU, for explaining it to these other rocket scientists' who seem to feel pulling this simple mechanical task off, is like a engineering feat? ALL the parts are identified on the "Spare Part List" 1301.  Thanks again, BB


----------



## Terry martin (Jan 26, 2016)

Wouldn't you know it! I am 77 yrs old, rather inexperienced with chain saws, so bought one on eBay that's supposed to be easy to start(Stihl ms250c) I hate 2 cycle engines that you have to pull 20 times to start. Now I find out that my troubles are just beginning ! I haven't even unpacked this thing yet and hear negative things about the 250c model.
If the last poster would provide me with part numbers and description of parts, I will try to locate them and be ready for conversion . Thanks to all you guys.


----------



## Paul Butalla (Jul 29, 2018)

I had this in another area, but found your question so added it here in case you've still got the saw. From my experience doing this, the main differences between the two variants are: the MS 250 C has the E2S recoil system, compression relief valve on the cylinder, different carb with a remote primer bulb, additional fuel lines and a fuel vent, plus a Quick Tensioner chain bar adjustment. The MS 250 has none of that.

I bought an MS-250C. After a while I got tired of the Quick Tensioner (OEM part 112300701008) bar loosening up and the disconnected feel of the E2S recoil start ( OEM part 1123 080 2108). So I bought an OEM recoil starter assembly for the MS 250 (1123 080 2104) and an aftermarket flywheel for the MS-250 (OEM Part 1123 400 1203) along with an aftermarket MS-250 bar tensioner assembly (OEM part 1123 007 1004) , bar studs (OEM part 1123 664 2400) , bar stud nuts (OEM part 0000 955 0804), and chain cover (OEM part 1123 640 1705) . I sourced all of my parts from Amazon and eBay, except for a woodruff key from Ace Hardware. Important addition, some of the aftermarket flywheels I saw on Amazon and eBay were out of phase - you have to view the picture to make sure the magnets on the flywheel are in the same position relative to the crankshaft key.

I was initially worried I would have to replace the coil and spark plug wire assembly, but that wasn't necessary. On the engine side you can go back and forth just by swapping the recoil starter assembly and flywheel. I should note that the OEM flywheels have a key cast into the shaft opening where some aftermarket parts do not, which was the case with mine. I bought a woodruff key from Ace Hardware and filed it down to fit. *The  compression relief valves, carbs, primer bulbs, vent lines, etc, or lack thereof. are not critical. Even though the coils between variants are different, it also doesn't matter. *The chain bar adjustment systems are interchangeable also. So you can have an Easy 2 Start system or not, and a Quick Tensioner system or not, your choice. You can make an MS 250 C into a modified MS 250 and the reverse.

I did buy an Zama OEM carb rebuild kit for the carb, which was really all it took to get the saw running again. But I'm really pleased to have a near MS 250 that runs flat out.

Any questions I'm happy to answer. Cheers and happy woodcutting!


----------

