# Best friction hitch for heavier climbers



## Hayden staggs (Feb 26, 2016)

I'm a big guy, 300+lbs, but I'm working on that. In the mean time though I was wondering what hitch you guys would recommend on an eye to eye. I've been climbing on a Blake's hitch on a closed system and its OK slips a little if I don't tend it often so I thought I'd try an open system with an eye to eye. Thanks for any advice


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## greengreer (Feb 26, 2016)

Have you tried adding some wraps to the blakes hitch? Try 3 over, 2 under or even 4 over. 
I really don't have any experience, I am not a big dude but most hitches should hold you, its more finding one that doesnt lock up tight.


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## Del_ (Feb 26, 2016)

Hayden staggs said:


> I'm a big guy, 300+lbs, but I'm working on that. In the mean time though I was wondering what hitch you guys would recommend on an eye to eye. I've been climbing on a Blake's hitch on a closed system and its OK slips a little if I don't tend it often so I thought I'd try an open system with an eye to eye. Thanks for any advice



Over 300lbs starts to exceed the 20/1 safety factor of 6,000lbs breaking strength ropes and tress cords so be careful out there. There are stronger available.


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## pdqdl (Feb 26, 2016)

Do a little experimentation, see what you like.

I come in just under 250, and I rather prefer the VT, or Tresse Valdotain. While it holds rather nicely, it also releases very easily and just glides up the rope when it is not loaded. On the other hand, it also is notorious for requiring a bit more attention than most other friction hitches. Set it or hang on to it before you throw your weight on the hitch, otherwise you might glide down the rope a good ways before you figure out what is wrong.

You can just add an extra wrap to almost any friction hitch and get enough holding power; the critical issue becomes ease and speed of use. Try a few, and see what you like: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_friction_hitch_knots

I have found that 8mm Beeline holds _very_ well on my climbing line, and I use 11mm velocity rope. I also discovered that as the 8mm beeline ages, it gets an even better grip. I recently made another E2E because the old one wouldn't hardly slide anymore, even though the cover and eyes looked fine. Note of interest: the 8mm Beeline takes more heat than any other rope I am aware of. It will _never_ melt or fuse if you slide down too quickly. You cannot melt that stuff even with a propane torch, but you can burn your hand controlling the knot.

I wouldn't worry too much about Del's comments about the weight and rope safety factor. If you are using a friction hitch, then you are not climbing SRT, so your loaded weight will be on two sections of rope. An E2E prussic also doubles the strength of the attachment rope, thereby cutting the weight per strand to far less than a singly loaded rope. Beeline, incidentally, has an average breaking strength of 8,000lbs, so you would be sliding around on 16,000lbs of holding strength (less wear & tear, splicing and knot strength losses). Secondly, most rope ratings are for a working load of 10:1, leaving you with lots of extra strength in your equipment. Your attachments, like carabiners, snaps, the bridge on your saddle, etc, would be greater concern from my point of view.


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## 1984 Saw (Mar 19, 2016)

Validation all wraps up with a micro pulley as a farelead tender use good beeline


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