# 562xp Hot start?



## Andyshine77 (Jun 25, 2016)

First off I want to be clear I have absolutely no brand preference whatsoever, and at this time I own 7 Husqvarna saws, more than any other brand. This thread and the fallowing video is not intended to bash this model, Husqvarna, those who sell them, or use them.

With that being said, my new 562xp will not restart after use in hot humid 90° weather, even when only sitting a minute or two. The primer would not pull fuel, and the saw was obviously not getting enough fuel from the carb. The saw would often fire rev for a second and die, if you touched the throttle the saw would die. Vapor lock is likely the problem, but what is actually causing the ongoing issues with these saws I really do not know at this point. When the saw is running, it is a pleasure to use and could very well be the nicest running stock saw I've ever had my hands on. 

So what are your thoughts?

Here is the video, I apologize for the video quality, it was taken with my phone.


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## CoreyB (Jun 25, 2016)

That was painful to watch. How frustrating. Hopefully someone can come up with a solution.
Is this with trying the special starting procedure that is supposed to be in the manual? I have seen many refer to that.


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 25, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> Is this with trying the special starting procedure that is supposed to be in the manual? I have seen many refer to that.



That made me laugh out loud.[emoji1]


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## wde_1978 (Jun 25, 2016)

My PS-7900 has restarting-after-sitting-hot issues, but Your 562XP is extreme!

I wonder whether deleting the primer bulb would mediate the issue Your saw has as my PS-7900 does not feature one and actually can be revived with 10-20 pulls.

My PS-7900 is also starving for fuel!
I pulled the plug numerous times to check for flooding AND to help cooling and venting the cylinder.
The plug was never wet nor did it ever made any difference leaving the cylinder "open" for a while, it would still require over a dozen pulls to sound off.

Do not engage choke, but if possible engage half/full throttle lock - that seems to work for my PS-7900 when she refuses to restart.
Also, after running Your saw hard let her idle for a minute on the ground preferably in the shade.
Restarting and bliping my PS-7900 a couple times within the next 1-2 minutes after running her hard also seems to mediate, even counteract, the vapor lock phenomenon.

I noticed hard restarts after shutting off while hot before on my PS-7900, but I used to think it was a freak coincidence.
This year though I bucked my neighbors and my uncles firewood logs, fuel tank after fuel tank, and I can confirm that my PS-7900 has an issue regarding this phenomenon.

I hope You can at least mediate the issue Your saw has.
It is a nice looking saw!

P.S.:
Modern saw design flaw, the saws are becoming too compact - they are unable to expel the heat they generate.


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## 7sleeper (Jun 25, 2016)

I remember a member mention here that letting the saw idle for ~30 sec was enough that the problem went away without any further procedure.

Good luck!

7


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## Chris-PA (Jun 25, 2016)

What you showed there was classic vapor lock, and while that's maybe more extreme it has become routine for me over the last few years. I'm not 100% sure it has happened with all of my saws, but I think so, and only a couple of those are strato and none are AT. Sometimes it's mild and sometimes it's been as bad as you showed, and I just couldn't get them going again. I've had hot saws fire and continue to idle on full choke.

Mostly I've just learned to work around it, which means never setting the saw in the sun, trying not to leave it off too long, preferring saws with separate controls and carbs that don't have an automatic choke shut off. And I always bring a backup saw if I'll be cutting in the heat. 

Is your fuel E10?

I'm convinced the fuel is boiling in the carb, although it could be in the lines. The carbs are basically the same on all saws, and the characteristics of a given fuel can will be the same too. So if one saw is worse than another then it must be due to a hotter engine, or some effect where the carb is more enclosed or the engine heat travels to the carb more easily. It could be a hotter cylinder from a leaner mixture, but my saws are not AT - although I don't set them fat either. Then again I run E10 which makes it worse. 

Husqvarna has recently modified the top cover for that saw with extra vents, so that's probably a clue.


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## J.Walker (Jun 25, 2016)

I've had some restart problems too! So in hot weather I take a old school saw like a 372.


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## c5rulz (Jun 25, 2016)

I WAS a big fan of the auto tunes when they first came out, (I am on my 2nd 562 and one 550,) now not so much.


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## Chris-PA (Jun 25, 2016)

c5rulz said:


> I WAS a big fan of the auto tunes when they first came out, (I am on my 2nd 562 and one 550,) now not so much.


I'm not sure vapor lock has anything to do with AT. I've dealt with it for years and made threads about it and talked about it quite a bit - I have no AT saws. I think it is more of a consequence of how the saws are constructed and how the fuel system is enclosed.


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## Jeffkrib (Jun 25, 2016)

Often wondered if a few pumps with a little hand held spray mister through the cooling vents onto the outer surfaces/side of the carb will suck out enough heat to solve the problem quick and easy and yor off again.
May be worth a go!


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## pro94lt (Jun 25, 2016)

I've had issues with mine, but with mine I came to the realization that on mine I have to put it on fast idle... The next question is and I've noticed that some saws the fast idle is not very fast can you check with a tach how fast your fast idle is? I'm just shooting at the moon but I think it's worth a try


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## CR888 (Jun 25, 2016)

You must not have read the owners manual! Haha I just wanted to say that. Vapour lock is a heat induced problem, you can stick heat shields in vulnerable places and possibly fix the issue. Though at the price these saws are it should not be up to a customer to do such mods. I think on hot humid days when it may occur letting the saw idle for a minute or two prioe to shut off is good practice. I've found under vapour lock a restart with the throttle at WOT is the only way they will restart short of waiting until things cool down. Ordering the new vented covers may reduce this issue too. My Solo pole saw does it in summer and it pizzez me right off when you r half way through a job. Its easier to start a trimmer/pole saw holding the throttle at wot than a saw but if your creative it's possible. Slightly dangerous but possible.


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## GrassGuerilla (Jun 25, 2016)




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## sunfish (Jun 25, 2016)




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## mountainlake (Jun 25, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> I'm not sure vapor lock has anything to do with AT. I've dealt with it for years and made threads about it and talked about it quite a bit - I have no AT saws. I think it is more of a consequence of how the saws are constructed and how the fuel system is enclosed.




You can bet auto tune has everything to do with vapor lock, they run lean and hot. Steve


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## Chris-PA (Jun 25, 2016)

mountainlake said:


> You can bet auto tune has everything to do with vapor lock, they run lean and hot. Steve


I can assure you AT has nothing to do with any of the vapor lock problems I've ever had.


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## sunfish (Jun 25, 2016)

mountainlake said:


> You can bet auto tune has everything to do with vapor lock, they run lean and hot. Steve


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## GrassGuerilla (Jun 25, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> I can assure you AT has nothing to do with any of the vapor lock problems I've ever had.



I was told a few years ago that vapor lock had been basically eliminated from modern designs. Dismissed as a fool for thinking it could be vapor lock. Seems to me that while moving the fuel tank, carb etc has greatly reduced it, it's still possible when conditions are right. So if this comes down to boiled fuel in a heat soaked saw, I don't think we can completely dismiss auto tune.

I think it'd be interesting to compare head temps on auto tune saws to non at saws to try to see if they're actually running a bit hotter. Doesn't seem unreasonable at all to think that the husky engineers may not have allowed for enough cooling to compensate for engines running leaner than prior pro saws. Speculation? Sure... But what else ya got?


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## Chris-PA (Jun 25, 2016)

GrassGuerilla said:


> I was told a few years ago that vapor lock had been basically eliminated from modern designs. Dismissed as a fool for thinking it could be vapor lock. Seems to me that while moving the fuel tank, carb etc has greatly reduced it, it's still possible when conditions are right. So if this comes down to boiled fuel in a heat soaked saw, I don't think we can completely dismiss auto tune.
> 
> I think it'd be interesting to compare head temps on auto tune saws to non at saws to try to see if they're actually running a bit hotter. Doesn't seem unreasonable at all to think that the husky engineers may not have allowed for enough cooling to compensate for engines running leaner than prior pro saws. Speculation? Sure... But what else ya got?


It got to be a tough design issue, as the saws are so small and you've got a large and very hot chunk of aluminum near a small cool chunk of aluminum with fuel in it. Then you shut it off and all cooling air stops blowing over the cylinder, and stops flowing through the carb. Then the carb starts heating. It doesn't take long to get to the boiling point of the fuel, and anything that either increases the heat, traps more of it under the covers with the carb, or reduces the boiling point of the fuel is going to make it worse. 

In my case I've never had an AT saw but have been dealing with vapor lock for years, and that is partially because I use E10 fuel and I don't set my mixtures very rich. Having lots of extra fuel that isn't burned probably helps reduce engine temperatures while running quite a bit, so it the cylinder _may_ start out at a lower temp when it's shut off - but that's just a guess and as you said it could be measured.

So I don't know what the difference is between a saw that has a vapor lock issue vs. one that doesn't. For some reason it's a bit hotter at shut off, or the heat is trapped in with the carb more, etc. Maybe they reduced the fan size to cut weight? I'm sure the engineers at Husqvarna know, and they just cut vents in the top cover - maybe that was just the cheapest quick band-aid they could come up with or maybe it's a real improvement.


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## blsnelling (Jun 25, 2016)

I have a customer, @porsche965 , that has reported the same to me on numerous times. EVERY TIME it's near 90 or higher, this happens. It's not the fuel source or the alcohol content. It will do it with pure canned fuel. He's tried every imaginable method of shutdown and starting to remediate this problem. The ONLY thing that works is to set it in the shade and let it cool off. 

John also mentioned that, even after re-fueling, bubbles will be coming up through the fuel as if being blown into with a straw. This is with fresh, cool fuel in the tank. Therefore, the issue doesies not stem from hot/boiling fuel in the tank. It's somewhere in the fuel system.

I as well am not pushing or knocking any brand, but MTronic saws do not exhibit this problem. It's a shame that such a great running saw has such a critical flaw.

I, as well as Andre, am very interested in hearing what others know and have to say about this issue. I'd love to see @spike60 weigh in, as I trust his knowledge as much as any.


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## CoreyB (Jun 25, 2016)

Looking at the video again it looks like he has the new vented hood. He did say it is a new saw.


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## Termite (Jun 25, 2016)

Andre, I have not experienced the same hot start problem as you but I don't cut much in the heat. So my 2260 may indeed have the same problem. I usually run AV gas and maybe that makes a difference.

I know when fuel gets real hot air can and will leak into the system but fuel will not leak out causing vapor lock. I witnessed this on my old Ford tractor, it about drove me crazy for awhile. When I looked into the fuel tank I would see bubbles where the fuel line attaches to the tank. When the tractor got very hot it just ran out of gas. The leak was around the sediment bowl gasket. I never saw or felt any gas leaking out. Maybe air is leaking in. Your saws symptoms and my tractor are the same. Maybe a small tie wrap on the fuel lines might help, easy to do. I am just thinking out loud here.

Another thought is saws with primer bulbs have more connections for air to leak in.


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## Termite (Jun 25, 2016)

blsnelling said:


> John also mentioned that, even after re-fueling, bubbles will be coming up through the fuel as if being blown into with a straw. This is with fresh, cool fuel in the tank. Therefore, the issue doesies not stem from hot/boiling fuel in the tank. It's somewhere in the fuel system.
> 
> @spike60 weigh in, as I trust his knowledge as much as any.



That's what I am talking about!


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## mountainlake (Jun 25, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> I can assure you AT has nothing to do with any of the vapor lock problems I've ever had.





Chris-PA said:


> In my case I've never had an AT saw





Chris-PA said:


> I can assure you AT has nothing to do with any of the vapor lock problems I've ever had.


 

I guess not as you don't have a auto tune saw. Steve

The fact is these auto tune saws are running too lean in hot weather thanks to EPA emission bs.


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## blsnelling (Jun 25, 2016)

Termite said:


> I usually run AV gas and maybe that makes a difference.


I was actually wondering of AV gas might make a difference, although that's not a realistic long term solution for most.


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## blsnelling (Jun 25, 2016)

Termite said:


> Maybe a small tie wrap on the fuel lines might help, easy to do. I am just thinking out loud here.


That would be easy enough to try out. Bypassing the primer bulb would be as well.


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## CoreyB (Jun 25, 2016)

Isn't AV gas higher octane? Wouldn't that hamper the performance being a cooler running fuel? Seems like you would be shooting yourself in the foot buying a high performance saw to feed it fuel to keep it from performing to its potential. That is if I understand it correctly.


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 25, 2016)

7sleeper said:


> I remember a member mention here that letting the saw idle for ~30 sec was enough that the problem went away without any further procedure.
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> 7


Gentleman I always let my saws idle a bit inbetween long cuts and before shutdown, it's my normal operating routine.[emoji6]


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 25, 2016)

CR888 said:


> You must not have read the owners manual! Haha I just wanted to say that. Vapour lock is a heat induced problem, you can stick heat shields in vulnerable places and possibly fix the issue. Though at the price these saws are it should not be up to a customer to do such mods. I think on hot humid days when it may occur letting the saw idle for a minute or two prioe to shut off is good practice. I've found under vapour lock a restart with the throttle at WOT is the only way they will restart short of waiting until things cool down. Ordering the new vented covers may reduce this issue too. My Solo pole saw does it in summer and it pizzez me right off when you r half way through a job. Its easier to start a trimmer/pole saw holding the throttle at wot than a saw but if your creative it's possible. Slightly dangerous but possible.


I tried starting the saw with the throttle wide open off camera it wouldn't even stumble, the only way to get to stumble was to not go near the throttle.


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## CoreyB (Jun 25, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> Gentleman I always let my saws idle a bit inbetween long cuts and before shutdown, it's my normal operating routine.[emoji6]


I started a thread on vapor lock. I want to gain a better understanding. Please don't think I am trying to poke fun at your situation. I will test my saws today and see if I can cause a vapor lock and to see if I can remember create it. If so I think it would be a starting point on finding ways to prevent it. If that is even the problem with your 562.


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## Chris-PA (Jun 25, 2016)

Termite said:


> I know when fuel gets real hot air can and will leak into the system but fuel will not leak out causing vapor lock. I witnessed this on my old Ford tractor, it about drove me crazy for awhile. When I looked into the fuel tank I would see bubbles where the fuel line attaches to the tank. When the tractor got very hot it just ran out of gas. The leak was around the sediment bowl gasket. I never saw or felt any gas leaking out. Maybe air is leaking in.


There is no air leaking in - the fuel is hot enough to boil/vaporize. Those bubbles are vapor coming out of the liquid fuel. Anything that reduces the pressure on the fuel makes it boil/vaporize more esily, such as the fuel pump or purge bulb pulling on the fuel line, or the carb venturi doing the same.



blsnelling said:


> That would be easy enough to try out. Bypassing the primer bulb would be as well.


I don't think the purge bulb causes the problem, but it won't work when the fuel is close to boiling. The only thing I've been considering is if having more fuel volume is an issue, and then the purge bulb might be a negative - but I don't see how that would work. 

The Poulans I've modified had purge bulb s to start, but the larger carb I used had no port so they got removed. Thos saws all vapor lock just like any other so I doubt it's an issue.


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## Chris-PA (Jun 25, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> I started a thread on vapor lock. I want to gain a better understanding. Please don't think I am trying to poke fun at your situation. I will test my saws today and see if I can cause a vapor lock and to see if I can remember create it. If so I think it would be a starting point on finding ways to prevent it. If that is even the problem with your 562.


Me too - several years ago: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/hot-starting-vapor-lock-issues-e10.262628/


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 25, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> I started a thread on vapor lock. I want to gain a better understanding. Please don't think I am trying to poke fun at your situation. I will test my saws today and see if I can cause a vapor lock and to see if I can remember create it. If so I think it would be a starting point on finding ways to prevent it. If that is even the problem with your 562.



Not a problem. 

To add some more input, I often cut in the summer when it's hot, I have never had an issue like this with any other saw I've owned. 

I have thought of eliminating the primer setup to see what that does, it was actually my first idea.

With that said nothing special should be required to start or operate a new tool, and no modifications should be required. It's simply not acceptable IMHO.


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## blsnelling (Jun 25, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> Isn't AV gas higher octane? Wouldn't that hamper the performance being a cooler running fuel? Seems like you would be shooting yourself in the foot buying a high performance saw to feed it fuel to keep it from performing to its potential. That is if I understand it correctly.


It's not the octane that interests me. IIRC, AV gas has a higher vapor/boiling point by design.


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 25, 2016)

I'm heading in a few with the Echo to finish what I was doing last evening. I'm going to run the balls off the saw, and sit it in the sun for a few and see what happens.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## Termite (Jun 25, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> There is no air leaking in - the fuel is hot enough to boil/vaporize. Those bubbles are vapor coming out of the liquid fuel. Anything that reduces the pressure on the fuel makes it boil/vaporize more esily, such as the fuel pump or purge bulb pulling on the fuel line, or the carb venturi doing the same.



You are correct the fuel is turning to a vapor due to lower pressure. However, I still say it was leaking causing the lower pressure because when, on my tractor, I installed a new gasket the vaporizing stopped and the tractor ran fine. I think we are in agreement but you expressed it more accurately.


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## Chris-PA (Jun 25, 2016)

Termite said:


> You are correct the fuel is turning to a vapor due to lower pressure. However, I still say it was leaking causing the lower pressure because when, on my tractor, I installed a new gasket the vaporizing stopped and the tractor ran fine. I think we are in agreement but you expressed it more accurately.


LOL, I have an early 1950's Ferguson TO-20, so yeah I get where leaks are always an additional possibility there!


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## Termite (Jun 25, 2016)

If fuel was leaking by the needle and seat, relieving pressure on the system, that would allow the fuel to vaporize-boil?

Edit: Mine is a 1960, 801, 4-wheel drive.


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 25, 2016)

Termite said:


> If fuel was leaking by the needle and seat, relieving pressure on the system, that would allow the fuel to vaporize-boil?
> 
> Edit: Mine is a 1960, 801, 4-wheel drive.


So basically the check valve is failing. I told Brad yesterday that the fuel was being forced back into the tank. This could make one believe the fuel in the tank is boiling, when in reality it's not. 

Just finished running another saw in the same conditions as the 562xp, let it sit in the sun and everything. I'll put the video up later, if you all interested.[emoji1] 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## Chris-PA (Jun 25, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> I told Brad yesterday that the fuel was being forced back into the tank. This could make one believe the fuel in the tank is boiling, when in reality it's not.


But how does this explain the purge bulb? You can pump that thing all you want and it will pull no fuel.


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## CoreyB (Jun 25, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> So basically the check valve is failing.
> Just finished running another saw in the same conditions as the 562xp, let it sit in the sun and everything. I'll put the video up later, if you all interested.[emoji1]
> 
> Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


That would be a relief if it is an easy fix.
I am very interested in you video. I subscribe to your youtube channel.


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## MontanaResident (Jun 25, 2016)

My Stihl 290 has this problem and in cool temps too. Fast idle helps. I've also recently tuned up the low speed jet and upped the idle a bit, but have not tested it.


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## albert (Jun 25, 2016)

More than once, while cutting on hot days the only saws that would not start hot were two 562's and a partner 5000+. 026, 028s, 036 ms460, husqvarna 346, 268, 262 371 no trouble same fuel, run just as hard. Fuel boiling in the metal fuel tank that is part of the crankcase on the 5000+. The 562's primers were dry and did not work, the carbs were dry and noticeably very hot.


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## mountainlake (Jun 25, 2016)

MontanaResident said:


> My Stihl 290 has this problem and in cool temps too. Fast idle helps. I've also recently tuned up the low speed jet and upped the idle a bit, but have not tested it.




Try opening up the high about 1/4 turn, if no help put it back. Steve


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## CoreyB (Jun 25, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> I'm heading in a few with the Echo to finish whatnot was doing last evening. I'm going to run the balls off the saw, and sit it in the sun for a few and see what happens.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


I have just spent the last two hours sweating my but off. (It needs it) trying to get the 6100 to vapor lock. I will upload a video with the results. Granted I couldn't use the same fuel the temp and humidity are not exact but I still gave it a valiant effort.


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## Termite (Jun 25, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> I have just spent the last two hours sweating my but off. (It needs it) trying to get the 6100 to vapor lock. I will upload a video with the results. Granted I couldn't use the same fuel the temp and humidity are not exact but I still gave it a valiant effort.


 
 But I sure as hell ain't going to do that.


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## Chris-PA (Jun 25, 2016)

Meh, I've been doing other projects so I haven't been able to run a saw for a bit, otherwise I would have been cutting today. I would have run the last Poulan I put together specifically with this problem in mind just to see how it worked. I also had a spare old top cover that I added some ventilation to, although that will cause the filter to clog faster. Still, there's not much need for a filter if it won't start!


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## porsche965 (Jun 25, 2016)

I won't be aggravated anymore with Husky and hot temps. They are great under 80 or so. Still own them and enjoy running Husky but use alternatives when it gets hot.


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## Chris-PA (Jun 25, 2016)

Clearly the 562 has an issue, but I'm still curious about why. The AT system gets blamed, but that seems to be a gut reaction without much evidence. How are other AT/MT saws working in the heat? The 562 is certainly not the only feedback carb saw.


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## angelo c (Jun 25, 2016)

what happens if you purge the fuel through as its idling? will the cooler fuel in the tank cool the lines near the hot spots enough ?


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 25, 2016)

The Echo started with one pull in the video. To be fair, later on I repeated the test and the saw took 5 pulls and the use of the choke to fire up, and the saw would not accelerate until it idled for about 20 seconds, after that the saw ran just fine. So the heat is having some effect on the Echo, but nothing like the 562, which was useless until it cooled down. Again the fuel is fresh 91 octane E-free.


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## 009L (Jun 25, 2016)

Tag

Edit: I truly hope you guys find a way to figure this out. Honestly, in 2016...Still having this problem is a f...ing joke. For those in and around my age group who owned dirt bikes as kids, you're very familiar with hard to start 2 stoke engines. It was without a doubt the BANE of our childhood. Lol!

Any new anything that you have to speak softly too, rub just right, and say 3 hail Mary's just to start no longer has any place in my life. Sell that turd and save yourself the endless frustration of having to remember to make sure the Moon and Sun are at just the right angle before using.

-Pat


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 25, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> Clearly the 562 has an issue, but I'm still curious about why. The AT system gets blamed, but that seems to be a gut reaction without much evidence. How are other AT/MT saws working in the heat? The 562 is certainly not the only feedback carb saw.



I can tell you the Echo ran much cooler, you could touch the mag case for as long as you wanted, the 562 was vert hot. I need to get an IR Thermometer!


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## CoreyB (Jun 25, 2016)

Video finally uploaded. It was hat and sticky. But hey I got to run my saws.


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 25, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> Video finally uploaded. It was hat and sticky. But hey I got to run my saws.




Haha love it!! 

The saw did sound a little lean on the restart, similar to the echo on the second go around.


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## Chris-PA (Jun 25, 2016)

angelo c said:


> what happens if you purge the fuel through as its idling? will the cooler fuel in the tank cool the lines near the hot spots enough ?


When you release the bulb it sucks fuel out of the carb fuel well, which disturbs the pressure there and can stall it at idle.


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## Chris-PA (Jun 25, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> To be fair, later on I repeated the test and the saw took 5 pulls and the use of the choke to fire up, and the saw would not accelerate until it idled for about 20 seconds, after that the saw ran just fine. So the heat is having some effect on the Echo, but nothing like the 562, which was useless until it cooled down.


Sounds like it was getting very close to vapor lock. Keep in mind that state change is not a linear process, it's a threshold effect. Once you get to boiling it's all over, but just below that it can be fine. 



Andyshine77 said:


> I can tell you the Echo ran much cooler, you could touch the mag case for as long as you wanted, the 562 was vert hot. I need to get an IR Thermometer!


OK, but that is exterior surfaces. The heat source is inside (cylinder, muffler). One could make the argument that if the saw is hotter outside it's doing a better job moving heat from inside to out. You would indeed need a temperature measurement of the carb to be sure. I think the evidence is that it's probably hotter inside, but it may not be as extreme as it seems from touching the case. 

**************

I wonder if the strato air inlet acts as a heat duct to bring cylinder heat to the carb area? With a non-strato the carb is connected to the case, which will be cooler and have fuel. The air inlets for a strato connect to the hot cylinder to the air valve, although that is supposed to be closed. I have not noticed that my GZ4000's are any more or less prone to vapor lock, but it is a different design where the air valve is bakelite and part of the carb mount.


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 25, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> Sounds like it was getting very close to vapor lock. Keep in mind that state change is not a linear process, it's a threshold effect. Once you get to boiling it's all over, but just below that it can be fine.
> 
> OK, but that is exterior surfaces. The heat source is inside (cylinder, muffler). One could make the argument that if the saw is hotter outside it's doing a better job moving heat from inside to out. You would indeed need a temperature measurement of the carb to be sure. I think the evidence is that it's probably hotter inside, but it may not be as extreme as it seems from touching the case.
> 
> ...


Yep.


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## Thornton (Jun 26, 2016)

Hope you get it figured out such a awesome saw. We use saws quite a bit for misc. trimming and clearing during the summer around here and it rarely gets under 90 during the day.


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## Cycledude (Jun 26, 2016)

My 16 month old 562 has done that a bunch of times and I wish I knew a good way to fix it. Husqvarna put a new carb on it under warranty and the saw definitely has more power with the new carb and starts a little better when hot . I have kinda learned not to get the saw so hot or avoid shutting it off if it's real hot, do some lighter cutting for a few minutes before shutting it off seems to help. Like someone else said I think the EPA and lean auto tune are a big part of the issue, as long as I don't shut the saw off extra hot everything is fine, other than the hard hot start issue when the saw is extra hot I love the 562.


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 26, 2016)

Ran the 562 again today same deal. Also after making a cut the saw had some mild run on. That means the saw was pretty much overheating, not enough fuel to keep the temperature down. This is seeming more and more like multiple things going on, not just one glaring failure.

Really I'm not overly worried about the saw I'll see what my dealer says this week, however I really don't think this is something a dealer can fix, maybe try a new carb just because. Other than that it's becoming clear "at least to me" that this model may in fact be a failed design concept. I mean how long have these saws been on the market now? Again these are just my thoughts, I know many out there love these saw, and honestly I can see why, when running they're one of the best stock saws I've ever ran.


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## weimedog (Jun 26, 2016)

I don't think I read the entire thread, but maybe I've participated just don't remember. I've seen el48 saws that have a characteristic that sounds almost like over run but really isn't a lean condition. Just tap the throttle and it picks up rpm's hangs a second then drops right off and idles nice and smooth. Almost like the combination of carb and ignition does that little "run" as the saws I've seen like that were not leaking or running lean and for that matter the plug comes out dark chocolate brown. Annoying but harmless on the saws I've seen like that. Mine does it a little. Second the "new" saw I just tweaked with a popup has a different piston and cover that prior 562's. Maybe a few other bits...tweaked it as I do and it doesn't have that little hitch... so something has changed between the 2014/2015 saws and the 2016 I just got. Maybe its the firmware. Don't know. I've seen 4 562's with el48's with that little "run" when you tap that throttle .. and one that doesn't. None of the el46's I have seen do that. I have no idea why they do that. Just an observation.


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## 71dart (Jun 26, 2016)

I worked on a 562 last week for a friend. It's a 2014 model with a EL48 carb.
I pulled the carb out and cleaned it up but everything looked good inside. Diaphragms, screen etc. all looked good. Piston looked good through the exhaust port.
Cold, it would start up and idle and I made 5 cuts through a good sized log and it died as it came back to idle. It ran great at full throttle but it just died whenever it got back to idle. 
I then noticed that the bar was too hot to touch (it was oiling fine) and the cylinder seemed very hot too.
He had to get the saw back to his uncle so thats as far as I got. They are loggers and have really liked this saw before this problem Needless to say, I ,too, am interested in suggestions/solutions to this problem.


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## dl5205 (Jun 26, 2016)

I have no practical experience with this model that would qualify me to reply to this thread, but going to anyway. 

Is there any possibility that the 562s that are exhibiting this hot start vapor lock might also have a (slight) air/ vacuum leak? Past discussions have shown that some examples of this model have this issue. Would that problem contribute to a hard hot start situation?


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 26, 2016)

dl5205 said:


> I have no practical experience with this model that would qualify me to reply to this thread, but going to anyway.
> 
> Is there any possibility that the 562s that are exhibiting this hot start vapor lock might also have a (slight) air/ vacuum leak? Past discussions have shown that some examples of this model have this issue. Would that problem contribute to a hard hot start situation?


You'd normally have other symptoms. 

I'm going to get an thermometer and try to compare a few different saws. I'll take readings from the cylinder, carb and the case. 

The run on after making a cut wasn't drastic and only lasted a second or two. 

I may open up the muffler, that will help let the engine breathe and should reduce the engine temps. No this shouldn't be necessary, but what can you do.

Thanks for all the feedback everyone!! Any and all Input is welcome and appreciated.


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 26, 2016)

weimedog said:


> I don't think I read the entire thread, but maybe I've participated just don't remember. I've seen el48 saws that have a characteristic that sounds almost like over run but really isn't a lean condition. Just tap the throttle and it picks up rpm's hangs a second then drops right off and idles nice and smooth. Almost like the combination of carb and ignition does that little "run" as the saws I've seen like that were not leaking or running lean and for that matter the plug comes out dark chocolate brown. Annoying but harmless on the saws I've seen like that. Mine does it a little. Second the "new" saw I just tweaked with a popup has a different piston and cover that prior 562's. Maybe a few other bits...tweaked it as I do and it doesn't have that little hitch... so something has changed between the 2014/2015 saws and the 2016 I just got. Maybe its the firmware. Don't know. I've seen 4 562's with el48's with that little "run" when you tap that throttle .. and one that doesn't. None of the el46's I have seen do that. I have no idea why they do that. Just an observation.


Thanks for the input. You may very well be correct.


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## 009L (Jun 26, 2016)

I wonder if there is a way/precedure to reset the autotune module? Maybe your dealer could contact a service tech on your behalf to see if this is possible?


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 26, 2016)

009L said:


> I wonder if there is a way/precedure to reset the autotune module? Maybe your dealer could contact a service tech on your behalf to see if this is possible?


Not positive, but I believe that has to be done with software. I also highly doubt that's the problem, the carb wasn't getting any fuel, the primer wouldn't even work.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## zogger (Jun 26, 2016)

My local place was having problems with the autotune saws running hot and having symptoms like this. I looked at one and it came from the distributor with those stoopid arctic air filters on it, just a mesh screen. I go WTF, this is not canuckistan. Well, they had to discuss things with husky intergalactic first, they are a completely by the book shop. I suggested they install a flock filter instead of the arctic filter, they started doing that after some more heat issues autotunes came back in, and now much less issues.


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## weimedog (Jun 26, 2016)

The new covers let a lot more heat out BTW. A good and simple mod to any 562 cover that actually makes sense.


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## weimedog (Jun 26, 2016)




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## Andyshine77 (Jun 26, 2016)

This saw came with the flock filter. My 550 came with the useless mesh filter which I replaced with a flock filter. Why would husky ship saws with only the mesh filter is beyond me, they should at least include both filters. With that said, when clean the mesh filter should flow better and help cooling.


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 26, 2016)

weimedog said:


>


The saw I have does in fact have that cover.


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## weimedog (Jun 26, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> This saw came with the flock filter. My 550 came with the useless mesh filter which I replaced with a flock filter. Why would husky ship saws with only the mesh filter is beyond me, they should at least include both filters. With that said, when clean the mesh filter should flow better and help cooling.



You prolly know how I drop several degrees with mine, but not going to push that concept. I can tell you on the old 2012 version that did have hot start issues and a light seizure when I first got it.....it has none of those issues now.. Its a three pull start when cold and one easy pull when hot... every time. I think the compression "bump" helped that too.


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## weimedog (Jun 26, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> The saw I have does in fact have that cover.


I'm betting your seeing that el48 thing I've been seeing for the last few months.. Just for chits and grins...get it started and just "bump" the throttle and see if it does a little run then settle right down. Almost a "square" curve.. jumps a few rpms for a couple of seconds, then jumps right back. . That wouldn't be an air leak thing...


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## Chris-PA (Jun 26, 2016)

weimedog said:


> You prolly know how I drop several degrees with mine, but not going to push that concept.


I know I read what you did once but I've forgotten - can you repeat it?


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## CoreyB (Jun 26, 2016)

I have been asking around and two suggestions I don't think have been mentioned yet.
One is to use the choke to kill the machine.
The other is to hold the throttle wide open when you hit the kill switch. 
Maybe worth a try ? Maybe someone can give some better feed back on these?


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## blsnelling (Jun 26, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> I have been asking around and two suggestions I don't think have been mentioned yet.
> *One is to use the choke to kill the machine.*
> The other is to hold the throttle wide open when you hit the kill switch.
> Maybe worth a try ? Maybe someone can give some better feed back on these?


I know the choke method has been tried by @porsche965 . It didn't work.


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 26, 2016)

Well I started the 562 and bumped the throttle as suggested and the saw behaved normally.


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## gunnusmc03 (Jun 26, 2016)

Do Jonsered 2260s have this same issue?


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## mountainlake (Jun 26, 2016)

Until Husky reprograms the auto tune for hot weather if they can get by the EPA, I'd try and do some light cutting at higher RPM's to cool the saw down some and let it idle a bit before shutting it off. No long hard cuts before shutting it off. Steve


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 26, 2016)

mountainlake said:


> Until Husky reprograms the auto tune for hot weather if they can get by the EPA, I'd try and do some light cutting at higher RPM's to cool the saw down some and let it idle a bit before shutting it off. No long hard cuts before shutting it off. Steve



That is always good advice for any saw really. I did however let the saw idle between cuts, and for about a minut before I shut her off. 

Did Husqvarna not test these saws in different environments? Sometimes I wonder.


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## Chris-PA (Jun 26, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> One is to use the choke to kill the machine.


I have tried that a few times when my (non-562) saws vapor lock - sometimes I thought it helped a little, but it's hard to tell. If it has an effect it isn't a large one.


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## weimedog (Jun 26, 2016)

Watched your video....I don't have any intelligent input. None of mine react that way. Almost like the fuel system/hoses are loosing prime. Maybe a leak in that system somewhere. Sounds like a derivative of fuel starvation. My humble opinion is I hope the dealer takes that saw and sends it back to Husqvarna R&D! Certainly something off on that saw. I read vapor lock in some of the commentary ... is that an ethanol blend? Does the fuel cap act like its under pressure? Something in the tank/handle, hoses, and/or carb must be off. Doubt it has anything to do with "autotune" and more to do with simple fuel delivery issues.

Heard you mention the primer bulb was empty...that's got to be a symptom of a larger issue in that tangled mess of hoses. Being a new saw should be a warrantee issue. If it as an older saw I would tear it apart looking for defective seals in the intake tract and things along the line of thought. Pulse issues. Carb issues. etc.

Of course I'm a little frustrated right now with 62cc Husqvarna's . Got a friends 262 the was having air leak symptoms...simply started taking things apart and stuff just crumbles! That plastic dam around the intake manifold .. crumbled. The plastic main seal cap.. The ignition coil....crumbles. The rubber parts in the carb.... a can of worms! And a lot of the plastic stuff is hard to find. Rather be debugging a 562! At least I can find parts


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 26, 2016)

weimedog said:


> Watched your video....I don't have any intelligent input. None of mine react that way. Almost like the fuel system/hoses are loosing prime. Maybe a leak in that system somewhere. Sounds like a derivative of fuel starvation. My humble opinion is I hope the dealer takes that saw and sends it back to Husqvarna R&D! Certainly something off on that saw. I read vapor lock in some of the commentary ... is that an ethanol blend? Does the fuel cap act like its under pressure? Something in the tank/handle, hoses, and/or carb must be off. Doubt it has anything to do with "autotune" and more to do with simple fuel delivery issues.
> 
> Heard you mention the primer bulb was empty...that's got to be a symptom of a larger issue in that tangled mess of hoses. Being a new saw should be a warrantee issue. If it as an older saw I would tear it apart looking for defective seals in the intake tract and things along the line of thought. Pulse issues. Carb issues. etc.
> 
> Of course I'm a little frustrated right now with 62cc Husqvarna's . Got a friends 262 the was having air leak symptoms...simply started taking things apart and stuff just crumbles! That plastic dam around the intake manifold .. crumbled. The plastic main seal cap.. The ignition coil....crumbles. The rubber parts in the carb.... a can of worms! And a lot of the plastic stuff is hard to find. Rather be debugging a 562! At least I can find parts



Non ethanol fuel, the saw is on it's fifth tank. I'm not worried about the dealer taking care of me, you should know he's in many of your videos . I doubt it's directly an AutoTune issue as well. When you remove the cap on a hot saw their will always be some pressure. 

In the end I believe the saw became too hot, and the fuel started vaporizing in the carb, when that happens the primer will no longer be able to pull fuel. I highly doubt the saw has a leak of any type because it runs 100% perfect until it's shut off. With that said I really do not know for sure without going through the saw. I'll give our dealer a call this week before I do anything, the saws just too new to play with IMHO.

Your input is greatly appreciated.


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## Chris-PA (Jun 26, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> Non ethanol fuel


I've had a suspicion for a some time that much of the non-ethanol fuel may not really be so. This was a quote from the thread I started on vapor lock some time ago:

_"*Volatility and distillation*_
_Ethanol forms azeotropes with hydrocarbons of gasoline, which impacts volatility. In particular, the vapor pressure and distillation characteristics of ethanol/gasoline blends are non-linear. Blending vapor pressures for alcohols are significantly higher than their nominal vapor pressures. Vapor pressure of neat ethanol is low at only 16 kPa (Owen and Coley 1995). When ethanol is added into gasoline, vapor pressure increases with blending ratios of 5-10%, but then gradually declines (Figures). With ethanol content of some 30-50%, vapor pressure is at the same level as for gasoline without oxygenates (Environment Australia 2002, Furey 1985)._


_Vapor pressure of blends can be adjusted by using base fuel with low vapor pressure. If strict fuel specifications are to be met, this rules out the possibility of so-called splash-blending of ethanol. In some regions, higher vapor pressures are allowed for gasoline-ethanol blends, if they contain ethanol (Read more of volatility limits)._


_One notable point regarding the vapor pressure of ethanol blend is its tendency to increase more quickly than that of gasoline with increasing temperature."_

From: http://www.iea-amf.org/content/fuel_information/fuel_info_home/ethanol/e10/ethanol_properties


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## weimedog (Jun 27, 2016)

wonder if there would be a different result with those "fuel in a can" products that are for certain non ethanol. At least a fuel from a different source. I am pretty certain if the issue is generic...I'm going to hear about it this week.. A couple of my older saws are being "tested" in the logging world out here. And its been hot.


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## weimedog (Jun 27, 2016)

Wonder what would happen if u opened the fuel cap to depressurize then flushed the lines with the primer bulb. Would point to vapor issues if that allowed it to start .


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## blsnelling (Jun 27, 2016)

Fuel in a can had been tried with no improvement.


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## spike60 (Jun 27, 2016)

It's all about the heat guys. The changes to the top covers that Walter showed in the pics are good for about 10 degrees. It does indeed make a difference; in many cases the problem goes away. It at least shortens the window where the issue occurs. Hot start issues are characteristically like this:

30 seconds or less, or 5+ minutes, it usually starts right up. The critical time is generally in that 2-3 minute range where the heat has peaked, yet hasn't had time to dissipate. Any additional heat evacuation makes a difference, and often that 10 degrees is enough. But if the temp goes up past 90, then the margin of improvement from the top cover is diminished. The reason the saw will restart immediately, but not 2 minutes later is due to the heat sink effect where the cylinder radiates it's heat into the carb while it's not running or receiving any cooling air flow.

Hitting the primer often flushes the offending fuel out of the carb in favor of what's in the tank, unless it's so bad that the primer wigs out like Andy's is doing. I've been cutting the covers on every saw, orange or red that comes into the shop. Both the 62 and 50 CC families. Everyone says it's better, but with the temps being what they are half the guys say it will still happen sometimes.

So, first thing is to cut the top and see what kind of improvement you notice. I just do it with a utility knife. Have done a couple dozen so far without having to reach for the box of band-aids.


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## mountainlake (Jun 27, 2016)

Plus other saws run fine with the same fuel. steve


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 27, 2016)

spike60 said:


> It's all about the heat guys. The changes to the top covers that Walter showed in the pics are good for about 10 degrees. It does indeed make a difference; in many cases the problem goes away. It at least shortens the window where the issue occurs. Hot start issues are characteristically like this:
> 
> 30 seconds or less, or 5+ minutes, it usually starts right up. The critical time is generally in that 2-3 minute range where the heat has peaked, yet hasn't had time to dissipate. Any additional heat evacuation makes a difference, and often that 10 degrees is enough. But if the temp goes up past 90, then the margin of improvement from the top cover is diminished. The reason the saw will restart immediately, but not 2 minutes later is due to the heat sink effect where the cylinder radiates it's heat into the carb while it's not running or receiving any cooling air flow.
> 
> ...



Thank you for checking in Bob!! What you said is pretty much the conclusion I've come to.

I was thinking about trying some canned fuel just to see if it makes any difference, but honestly I've been running fuel from the same pump for two years without a problem.


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## CoreyB (Jun 27, 2016)

What if you pop the top cover off if you know it is going to sit a few minutes. 
I know it could be a pain and not always applicable. 
But is a lot easier then pulling 100 times.


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 27, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> What if you pop the top cover off if you know it is going to sit a few minutes.
> I know it could be a pain and not always applicable.
> But is a lot easier then pulling 100 times.


I have been thinking about making some additional ventilation openings at some point, if you mess it up a top cover isn't the most costly part.


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## spike60 (Jun 27, 2016)

weimedog said:


> Of course I'm a little frustrated right now with 62cc Husqvarna's . Got a friends 262 the was having air leak symptoms...simply started taking things apart and stuff just crumbles! That plastic dam around the intake manifold .. crumbled. The plastic main seal cap.. The ignition coil....crumbles. The rubber parts in the carb.... a can of worms! And a lot of the plastic stuff is hard to find. Rather be debugging a 562! At least I can find parts



Yeah, I mean no way anything like that should happen on a saw that's only 20 some years old. 

The sealing collars are only $6 and are still available. I know of one dealer who stocks them. 

The plastic main seal cap, is called the generator holder. Which technically it is if you have a G model. Early ones were made of aluminum; not sure when they switched to plastic. This part unfortunately _is_ NLA. Parts saws-parts saws-parts saws. Grab 'em all. No matter how ratty it looks, there's always something there you can use. That seal is the same seal used on the 372, 357, 55 and some others. Obviously it would have been better if they mounted it in the case on the 262 chassis like the rest of them and there'd be no cap/holder to be looking for. Lot of parts for this family are going the NLA route.


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## spike60 (Jun 27, 2016)

And I don't know why @Chris-PA is going on about distilling and all in this thread, but if he makes good stuff then he should be invited to the next GTG.


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## Chris-PA (Jun 27, 2016)

spike60 said:


> And I don't know why @Chris-PA is going on about distilling and all in this thread, but if he makes good stuff then he should be invited to the next GTG.


Lol - that's what the stuff is supposed to be used for, not burning it in engines!


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## Termite (Jun 27, 2016)

Spike60, I would like to see pictures of the covers both before and after the mod for the 2260 and 2253. I know it is a pain but it would be helpful.

Is this covered in one of your vedios?


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## weimedog (Jun 27, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> I have been thinking about making some additional ventilation openings at some point, if you mess it up a top cover isn't the most costly part.



I "ventilate" the muffler too.. drops heat from the front of the cylinder & cases under the muffler.

In addition removing the decomp leaves a ugly hole on top...but its a hole..


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 27, 2016)

I mm pretty much all my saws. It may get some port/machine work as well.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## CR888 (Jun 27, 2016)

Spike said it well....epa & AT gets the blame for any issue one cannot understand/resolve. It is simply a heat issue, asside from the cover cutting mods heat shield tape in the right spots could be a solution too. It's about keeping the carb cool.


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## Sean80 (Jun 27, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> I mm pretty much all my saws. It may get some port/machine work as well.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


I feel your pain man. My 562 does the same, as did my t540xp which has since been sold and replaced with a 201tc. It is the most frustrating thing especially when your climbing a tree and they won't start. My 562 had the carb updated and I haven't had a chance to try it in the real hot weather yet. I have noticed that the throttle response is better, there isn't any hesitation when going to full throttle. I wish stihl made the 441cm still. That thing is a beast.

Link to my issues:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/index.php?threads/297184/

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 27, 2016)

I remember that thread, thought you were crazy is first, guess we both are lol.[emoji4]

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## spike60 (Jun 28, 2016)

Termite said:


> Spike60, I would like to see pictures of the covers both before and after the mod for the 2260 and 2253. I know it is a pain but it would be helpful.
> 
> Is this covered in one of your vedios?



Yeah, I'd be happy to. I have a couple 2253's that a guy hasn't picked up yet, so I'll try and get a couple pics up later today. Walt already put up some nice pics of the Huskys. 

I'll also post the part numbers for the new top covers if anyone is interested. There is a number for the 555 cover, but it's not even in the system yet. No numbers on the Red's yet because as of a week or 2 ago, there wasn't yet a service bulletin on the Jonnys, but I figured why wait for it to come out so i started cutting. Reason the SB would lag on the Jonsereds is that these changes are typically tied to a serial number break. So, there would be a later run of these updated saws and the SB would then follow.


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## spike60 (Jun 28, 2016)

Not the greatest pic, but this is what I did to the 2253's. The hole could be a little farther to the rear on the 50cc saws vs the 60's.


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## nnero (Jun 28, 2016)

It bothers me that people have to mess around like this with a brand new saw. These aren't particularly cheap either. I don't usually have to run a saw in hot weather so it wouldn't impact me but it still seems like something that shouldn't be happening with a flagship model saw.


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## benelli777 (Jun 28, 2016)

Spike if you can get us the part # for the new covers for 562xp and 545 

I am buying one of each ! We should not have to but hey. It can only help 

I only had the hot star issue a couple times with my 562. 

Have a good night

JF


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## blsnelling (Jun 28, 2016)

It's simply enough to open yours up.


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## CoreyB (Jun 28, 2016)

I have a question. Is the flywheel the same on the 555 as the 562? 
Why do we very seldom hear of problems from the 555? Is it a better saw?
@spike60


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 29, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> I have a question. Is the flywheel the same on the 555 as the 562?
> Why do we very seldom hear of problems from the 555? Is it a better saw?
> @spike60



Less popular with AS saw fanatics is my guess. Maybe they run cooler do to lower specific output?


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 29, 2016)

Opened up the cover on my 550. It looks OK I guess. I removed the small internal baffle next to the spark plug, and the side of the cover a bit. Didn't see the need to remove the material on the side below the cylinder.


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## CR888 (Jun 29, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> I have a question. Is the flywheel the same on the 555 as the 562?
> Why do we very seldom hear of problems from the 555? Is it a better saw?
> @spike60


Not sure its a 'better saw' but I have always asked myself the same question. Even the carb stumble issues don't seem to ever be reported with the 555. I have a 555 and have used it extensively in hot weather and it has always run fine. I think being detuned over the 562 is not such a bad thing, my 555 performs really well with over 150hrs. Its a 2012 model too. I run it with a 15" b/c for limbing....not a 28" like some do bucking with a 562.


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## spike60 (Jun 29, 2016)

Here's the top cover part numbers. 550 and 562 are $28 and $29. 555 isn't even in the system yet.

550--587248603
562--587248702
555--587248504

555 and 562 do use the same flywheel. (except for the XPG). 555 is the most under appreciated saw I've ever seen. Some people say the 555's hold up better than the 562's. Do they, and why? I haven't sold the 555 in numbers that allow me to confirm that. Only thing I can guess would be that they don't run quite as close to the edge as the 562, but we're going off into the land of theories and not facts there. Plus most 555's don't end up in as hostel an environment as the 562's do.

I have to be careful saying too many nice things about the 555 cause @weimedog has been calling it a near perfect saw for a couple years now, and I hate to have to agree with him publically.


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## benelli777 (Jun 29, 2016)

Thank you very much Spike. 

I will just have to find someone who can sell it to me ( I live in Quebec, Canada ). 

Have a great day 

JF


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## sunfish (Jun 29, 2016)

spike60 said:


> Here's the top cover part numbers. 550 and 562 are $28 and $29. 555 isn't even in the system yet.
> 
> 550--587248603
> 562--587248702
> ...


I've been sayin the 555 is the best firewood saw on the market for a while now.


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## Termite (Jun 29, 2016)

sunfish said:


> I've been sayin the 555 is the best firewood saw on the market for a while now.


 
The case could easily be made for the 555 or 2258 over the a 346, 550, 2153 and 2253. My case is little additional weight, much more power and about the same price. Ya sure don't see very many 555 in the Tradin Post.


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## CoreyB (Jun 29, 2016)

sunfish said:


> I've been sayin the 555 is the best firewood saw on the market for a while now.


Let's not get crazy now. Lol


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## sunfish (Jun 29, 2016)

Termite said:


> The case could easily be made for the 555 or 2258 over the a 346, 550, 2153 and 2253. My case is little additional weight, much more power and about the same price. Ya sure don't see very many 555 in the Tradin Post.


555 would not replace a ported 346s' for me, but if a guy wanted a new saw with the best power to weight in a smaller size than other 60cc saws, it is the one.


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## KenJax Tree (Jun 29, 2016)

sunfish said:


> 555 would not replace a ported 346s' for me, but if a guy wanted a new saw with the best power to weight in a smaller size than other 60cc saws, it is the one.


2260


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## Termite (Jun 29, 2016)

KenJax Tree said:


> 2260



2260= more money


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## CoreyB (Jun 29, 2016)

sunfish said:


> 555 would not replace a ported 346s' for me, but if a guy wanted a new saw with the best power to weight in a smaller size than other 60cc saws, it is the one.


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## sunfish (Jun 29, 2016)

CoreyB said:


>



I do not believe a 6100 is heavy at all. It's all relative, Bubba...


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## sunfish (Jun 29, 2016)

KenJax Tree said:


> 2260


Well, I keep forgetting about that one and I'd likely pick it over a 555, maybe?


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## porsche965 (Jun 29, 2016)

Just own all three, 555, 562 and the 6100.


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## MountainHigh (Jun 29, 2016)

Heat heat* HEAT* - the enemy of the 562xp.

I cut my cover open a while back and it's been running fine since it had a new cylinder and piston installed, but it hasn't got real hot out here yet.

Still wanting to gut my muffler but I know that will void the warranty pretty fast, and *extended warranty has been essential *on this saw so far.

Anyone care to do *radical surgery on some 562xp mufflers* and sell me one? *I'll take one immediately*!


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## Thornton (Jun 29, 2016)

sunfish said:


> I've been sayin the 2260 is the best firewood saw on the market for a while now.


I remember


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## MountainHigh (Jun 29, 2016)

Re 2260 - other than the small mount bar, what is the difference between it and 562xp that would make it not also have Hot Start issues?

Does it not have the same rev-boost? or the same layout adjacent to the carb? or more breathing room in the case? or different carb? or less restrictive muffler .... or better shielded fuel lines ... ..... or ..... some Jonsred magic they have kept secret from Husky ? 

Thoughts?


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## weimedog (Jun 30, 2016)

Let's assume your premise is coorect...that the 2260 doesn't have hot start issues.m.I've never had issues with my 555 either. Maybe the smaller pto side let's air from cooling the fins out better...or maybe the smaller cases don't hold the heat as the larger 562 cases do. Before u brought up the 2260 I was wondering ' if the 555 not having stuffers makes a difference. Also...I wonder if all that plastic on the left side of the carb makes it harder for the carb to shed heat or be cooled by the intake air from the flywheel. ..was going to see if I could detach some of those clips and mount them or simply let them hang else where. And does the autotune mechanism itself add or effect the heat in the carb...


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## sunfish (Jun 30, 2016)

I think a AWOL 2260 might be in my future.


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## CoreyB (Jun 30, 2016)

sunfish said:


> I think a AWOL 2260 might be in my future.


The 2260 is much better looking then the 562. Lol I like the small mount better myself. I don't cut huge wood very often and only when I have to.


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## MountainHigh (Jun 30, 2016)

How come I don't hear this music when I'm in the woods cutting with my 562? warranty item coverage?

https://www.youtube.com/embed/5cxcK...=1&theme=dark&wmode=transparent&enablejsapi=1


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## sunfish (Jun 30, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> The 2260 is much better looking then the 562. Lol I like the small mount better myself. I don't cut huge wood very often and only when I have to.


Agreed & the 555 looks better than a 562 with the low top filter cover.


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## CR888 (Jun 30, 2016)

For the wood I cut 59cc's don't get you far with big mount 20"-28" solid bars. But a 555 being about the same weight size as my MS261's but with 10cc more, the small mount is great so I can run small bars even light laminates & have a light fast capable little limber. The wood I cut is very dense so 24" bars are not an option on a saw this size..... but a 15" ko95 solid Windsor speed tip, its a runner!


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## CoreyB (Jun 30, 2016)

CR888 said:


> For the wood I cut 59cc's don't get you far with big mount 20"-28" solid bars. But a 555 being about the same weight size as my MS261's but with 10cc more, the small mount is great so I can run small bars even light laminates & have a light fast capable little limber. The wood I cut is very dense so 24" bars are not an option on a saw this size..... but a 15" ko95 solid Windsor speed tip, its a runner!


I have heard that Australia wood can be some hard stuff. Even harder then alot of our Midwest hard woods. I know a huge hedge can really show you if your chain is not Sharp. Lol


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 30, 2016)

weimedog said:


> Let's assume your premise is coorect...that the 2260 doesn't have hot start issues.m.I've never had issues with my 555 either. Maybe the smaller pto side let's air from cooling the fins out better...or maybe the smaller cases don't hold the heat as the larger 562 cases do. Before u brought up the 2260 I was wondering ' if the 555 not having stuffers makes a difference. Also...I wonder if all that plastic on the left side of the carb makes it harder for the carb to shed heat or be cooled by the intake air from the flywheel. ..was going to see if I could detach some of those clips and mount them or simply let them hang else where. And does the autotune mechanism itself add or effect the heat in the carb...



I was thinking about the suffers myself, impeding flow, or over pressurizing the case, that sure would cause issues after shutdown. I remember old EHP saying crank suffers often slow saws down, I know he liked 359 more than the 357 because it lacked suffers.[emoji6] 

With everything on the table, the fact is these saw are still giving people fits, for wherever reason. To me this is not really not acceptable IMHO. We shouldn't have to be modifying new equipment!! I've always been of the mind set, if something needs to be modified when still new, the manufacturer simply didn't do it's job.

I know a lot of brand bashing has gone on here over the years, withe the constant same old stale arguments. That's not my intention, and I believe most see that's not my intention. 

However these saws have been out far too long for failures like this still to occur. I know I'll take some heat for saying that, but I've never won any popularity contest.[emoji6]


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 30, 2016)

sunfish said:


> Agreed & the 555 looks better than a 562 with the low top filter cover.


I personally have always preferred the high tops, but that could just be me subconsciously preferring function over form. And a large mount is often preferred do to bar availability. The reduction in weight is obviously a big plus.


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## CoreyB (Jun 30, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> I was thinking about the suffers myself, impeding flow, or over pressurizing the case, that sure would cause issues after shutdown. I remember old EHP saying crank suffers often slow saws down, I know he liked 359 more than the 357 because it lacked suffers.[emoji6]
> 
> With everything on the table, the fact is these saw are still giving people fits, for wherever reason. To me this is not really not acceptable IMHO. We shouldn't have to be modifying new equipment!! I've always been of the mind set, if something needs to be modified when still new, the manufacturer simply didn't do it's job.
> 
> ...


I agree 100% I do tend to give some grief about the 562 but that is just because some people swear they are infallible. 
I do honestly hope you can get tips sorted out. It is always a kick in the pants when you have to make time to get something fixed that is supposed to hold up to years of use.


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 30, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> I agree 100% I do tend to give some grief about the 562 but that is just because some people swear they are infallible.
> I do honestly hope you can get tips sorted out. It is always a kick in the pants when you have to make time to get something fixed that is supposed to hold up to years of use.


That's just it, I really don't believe anything can be done. It is more of a fundamental design issue, if it wasn't the problem or problems would have been rectified by now. At least that's how I see it... It is what it is.

I will open up the muffler and just be careful in hot weather, and otherwise enjoy using the saw.


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## benelli777 (Jun 30, 2016)

MountainHigh said:


> Heat heat* HEAT* - the enemy of the 562xp.
> 
> I cut my cover open a while back and it's been running fine since it had a new cylinder and piston installed, but it hasn't got real hot out here yet.
> 
> ...


Homelite410 comes to mind for a nice muffler mod


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## CoreyB (Jul 1, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> That's just it, I really don't believe anything can be done. It is more of a fundamental design issue, if it wasn't the problem or problems would have been rectified by now. At least that's how I see it... It is what it is.
> 
> I will open up the muffler and just be careful in hot weather, and otherwise enjoy using the saw.


Cutting in that much heat does zap you. At least you have that awesome Echo 590 that will handle where the 562 gives up.


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## albert (Jul 1, 2016)

Is there a metering cover or diaphram change is the latest saws?


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## Andyshine77 (Jul 1, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> Cutting in that much heat does zap you. At least you have that awesome Echo 590 that will handle where the 562 gives up.


[emoji12]


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## spike60 (Jul 1, 2016)

MountainHigh said:


> Re 2260 - other than the small mount bar, what is the difference between it and 562xp that would make it not also have Hot Start issues?
> 
> Does it not have the same rev-boost? or the same layout adjacent to the carb? or more breathing room in the case? or different carb? or less restrictive muffler .... or better shielded fuel lines ... ..... or ..... some Jonsred magic they have kept secret from Husky ?
> 
> Thoughts?



Other than the bar mount, everything else is the same between the 2260 and the 562. It's good that your 2260 hasn't exhibited the hot start deal, but that should not lead to the premise that "the 2260", as in all of them, are free from the problem. And not every 562 has this problem either.

As is so often the case, the characteristics of one saw should never be ascribed to all of them. IE; the fact that your saw doesn't have the problem should not be interpreted to mean that ALL 2260's will be free of it. That type of rationalizing leads to some of these theories about the wide mount case or crank stuffers contributing to problem.  One wrong conclusion only leads to another.

I've seen this on every one of these saws at some point. That's why the 555 is also getting a new top cover! Small mount, large mount, as well as the 50cc saws. That's why those two 2253's are in here. The _perception _is that it's worse on the 562's because there are so many more 562's out there that we see it more often with them than with the other models. IMO, with the volume of saws that I see, the 550/2253 was worst than the 562. But with the newest AT-12 carb this has apparently been much improved.

Another factor that hasn't been mentioned is work habits. Some guys leave their saws idling for a minute between whatever and don't experience the problem, but the saw may still have it waiting for just the right time to piss him off. Is this frustrating to deal with? Of course it is. I tell my guys I can make it better, but I can't promise that it will never happen. In most cases, it has gone away enough that it won't rear it's head. But a hot enough day, the right interval between starts, and you never know.


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## MountainHigh (Jul 1, 2016)

spike60 said:


> Other than the bar mount, everything else is the same between the 2260 and the 562. It's good that your 2260 hasn't exhibited the hot start deal, but that should not lead to the premise that "the 2260", as in all of them, are free from the problem. And not every 562 has this problem either.
> 
> Another factor that hasn't been mentioned is work habits. Some guys leave their saws idling for a minute between whatever and don't experience the problem, but the saw may still have it waiting for just the right time to piss him off. Is this frustrating to deal with? Of course it is. I tell my guys I can make it better, but I can't promise that it will never happen. In most cases, it has gone away enough that it won't rear it's head. But a hot enough day, the right interval between starts, and you never know.



I find it odd that some 562's consistently produce this hot start issue, while others don't. I can see this occurring if it is due to factors in the environment or user habits, but if it's the minuscule build variations between 562 saws, the question begs, what are the *sensitive hardware anomalies/tiny differences between 562 saws, that could determine some have issues and others don't?


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## Chris-PA (Jul 1, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> With everything on the table, the fact is these saw are still giving people fits, for wherever reason. To me this is not really not acceptable IMHO. We shouldn't have to be modifying new equipment!! I've always been of the mind set, if something needs to be modified when still new, the manufacturer simply didn't do it's job.


To me there's no escaping this conclusion. If I had bought a new saw for that kind money, or even much less, and had to do anything more than put good mix and bar oil into it and keep the chain sharp then the product is a failure. I enjoy modding saws, but one should never need to in order to use it for its intended purpose.


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## Andyshine77 (Jul 1, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> To me there's no escaping this conclusion. If I had bought a new saw for that kind money, or even much less, and had to do anything more than put good mix and bar oil into it and keep the chain sharp then the product is a failure. I enjoy modding saws, but one should never need to in order to use it for its intended purpose.


And I'm not someone that works with a saw for a living. I can only imagine how frustrating something like this would be on a job site. That's a problem Husqvarna may be facing. It's very hard to gain professional clientele, but very easy to loose it.

Anyway that's about all I have to say on the matter. I thank everyone for their input!!

Andre.


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## spike60 (Jul 2, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> Anyway that's about all I have to say on the matter. I thank everyone for their input!!
> 
> Andre.



Well, I'd like it if you could say a little more on the matter. 

Let me know what if any improvement you notice with the cuts in the top cover. Better? A little? A lot? What temp are you cutting in and if the problem remains, at what interval does the problem come and go. And is it a complete no start, or does it need 5-6 pulls. That is actually the more common complaint that I see; having to pull a half dozen times, not a complete no start.

Here or PM; doesn't matter. I'll pass your input on to those that want to know.


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## Cycledude (Jul 2, 2016)

I believe his saw came from the factory with the newer cover with the cutout already in it, or are you thinking he should somehow add more cutouts ?



spike60 said:


> Well, I'd like it if you could say a little more on the matter.
> 
> Let me know what if any improvement you notice with the cuts in the top cover. Better? A little? A lot? What temp are you cutting in and if the problem remains, at what interval does the problem come and go. And is it a complete no start, or does it need 5-6 pulls. That is actually the more common complaint that I see; having to pull a half dozen times, not a complete no start.
> 
> Here or PM; doesn't matter. I'll pass your input on to those that want to know.


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## spike60 (Jul 2, 2016)

Cycledude said:


> I believe his saw came from the factory with the newer cover with the cutout already in it, or are you thinking he should somehow add more cutouts ?



No, I wasn't aware of that. Forgot when he bought it, so thanks for pointing that out! So no, I'm not suggesting that he do any additional cutting if he has the new top already.

If that's the case, then it's like I said earlier about the temp going up around 90 canceling out some of the improvement fro the cut outs.


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## Andyshine77 (Jul 2, 2016)

Bob the saw in question has the new top cover. The cover I modified was for my older 550. 

Anyway when temps are in the 80's the 562 will restart with say 10 pulls max, and will run a bit lean for a few seconds than pickup and go like mad. When the temp hits 90° the saw will not restart no matter what you do. I bought this saw from you in April.

I really appreciate your response, and I never once questioned your willingness to assist if something could be done to resolve the hot start issue with the saw. 

Thanks again.

Andre.


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## damifino (Jul 2, 2016)

Anyway that's about all I have to say on the matter. I thank everyone for their input!!

Andre.[/QUOTE]

Couldn't agree more with Spike. Andre you started this conversation with a lot of good strong information and I have seen a good response from others with good concern and information about this issue. You can't just walk away now.


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## weimedog (Jul 2, 2016)

SO both Bobe8888 and Andyshine77 have 2016 new version saws that won't restart. Both have you tube video's. Both observe the primer bulb is both empty and won't pull fuel?? Wonder what keeps the primer bulb from pulling fuel? You would think the primer "vacuum" would pull fuel though independent of the carburetor. And also using the primer to flush the system might also take heat away....but if it won't even pull fuel; something we are missing here. I know spike was saying its just hot, but why does a "hot" carb keep the primer bulb from pulling fuel? If the saw idles for a minute or so after a hard pull then shut it off does that "cool" down enough? I'm assuming the reason its being shut off is to refuel, was it low on fuel when it was shut down? Any chance something flexes and creates and air leak in that system? Maybe fuel line and filter some how get pulled away from the fuel?


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## weimedog (Jul 2, 2016)

spike60 said:


> No, I wasn't aware of that. Forgot when he bought it, so thanks for pointing that out! So no, I'm not suggesting that he do any additional cutting if he has the new top already.
> 
> If that's the case, then it's like I said earlier about the temp going up around 90 canceling out some of the improvement fro the cut outs.



When I was a kid I worked for a company in a long gone place that once was Lake Allendale New York, off Oregon Road called "Damifino" construction. I pulled a rake on asphalt mostly. Or changed tires on their ancient Mack Dump trucks. I asked who was named Damifino?? No answer...a few more days and curious minds had to know so I asked again...why does the company have that name?? The old fellow looked at me like I was stupid and said... Damn If I know!


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## Andyshine77 (Jul 2, 2016)

weimedog said:


> SO both Bobe8888 and Andyshine77 have 2016 new version saws that won't restart. Both have you tube video's. Both observe the primer bulb is both empty and won't pull fuel?? Wonder what keeps the primer bulb from pulling fuel? You would think the primer "vacuum" would pull fuel though independent of the carburetor. And also using the primer to flush the system might also take heat away....but if it won't even pull fuel; something we are missing here. I know spike was saying its just hot, but why does a "hot" carb keep the primer bulb from pulling fuel? If the saw idles for a minute or so after a hard pull then shut it off does that "cool" down enough? I'm assuming the reason its being shut off is to refuel, was it low on fuel when it was shut down? Any chance something flexes and creates and air leak in that system? Maybe fuel line and filter some how get pulled away from the fuel?


I am babe8888 lol.


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## CoreyB (Jul 2, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> I am babe8888 lol.


You have split personalities? Lol


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## blsnelling (Jul 2, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> I am babe8888 lol.


babe? Bwaaahahahahaha


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## weimedog (Jul 2, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> I am babe8888 lol.


Well that cuts the instances in half now doesn't it..... just checking


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## Andyshine77 (Jul 2, 2016)

Stupid auto correct.[emoji1] I was out eating dinner when I posted.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## Andyshine77 (Jul 3, 2016)

weimedog said:


> SO both Bobe8888 and Andyshine77 have 2016 new version saws that won't restart. Both have you tube video's. Both observe the primer bulb is both empty and won't pull fuel?? Wonder what keeps the primer bulb from pulling fuel? You would think the primer "vacuum" would pull fuel though independent of the carburetor. And also using the primer to flush the system might also take heat away....but if it won't even pull fuel; something we are missing here. I know spike was saying its just hot, but why does a "hot" carb keep the primer bulb from pulling fuel? If the saw idles for a minute or so after a hard pull then shut it off does that "cool" down enough? I'm assuming the reason its being shut off is to refuel, was it low on fuel when it was shut down? Any chance something flexes and creates and air leak in that system? Maybe fuel line and filter some how get pulled away from the fuel?



I believe the primer can't pump fuel, because the fuel in the carb or fuel in the lines has turned to a gas, at this point I believe the primer will no longer function. I shut the saw off to move some logs around, the tank sight prevents you from running out of fuel as long as you check on it every few minutes. Also this has happened a few times now, even with pretty much a full tank.


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## Cycledude (Jul 3, 2016)

I have 3 other saws besides the 562, one is a echo 400 and with that saw I need to be careful about priming it when the fuel tank it plumb full because it will pop the fuel hose right off the primer, that has only happened when the tank was completely full, I've pumped the bulb with the fuel cap removed and can see the fuel in the tank bubbling so I think if it's completely full there is no space for the air bubbles that's why it blows the hose off, maybe there's something like that going on sometimes with the 562.


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## weimedog (Jul 3, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> I believe the primer can't pump fuel, because the fuel in the carb or fuel in the lines has turned to a gas, at this point I believe the primer will no longer function. I shut the saw off to move some logs around, the tank sight prevents you from running out of fuel as long as you check on it every few minutes. Also this has happened a few times now, even with pretty much a full tank.



Even so I would expect the primer to be able to pull it through...it does when you start with an empty system and then put in fuel...prime to start. It starts with straight air and can pull the fuel. How hot would that carb have to get to vaporize gasoline instantly and continuously to the point it overcomes an active "pump" like the primer? I remember those old Homelites that would boil the gas in their tanks! A disconcerting feeling to say the least! There is the rubber intake that keeps the carb from getting heat through conduction from the cylinder. And that "dam" would keep the hot air from coming through. Where is the heat coming from? Does the autotune system add heat to the carb? Or is it just sensitive regardless. Wonder what the temps under that cover are. I would expect the air flow from the flywheel side to help. Unless the flywheel itself is hot. And yet again the location of all those clips & autotune stuff on the flywheel side of the carb might be blocking the cooler air. Or insulating the heat in....Questions....questions.

I'm going to try and replicate that condition this weekend, and poke a laser thermometer around .. if its hot enough. I'm going under the assumption if I run it really hard and then just kill it, my first clue will be the primer bulb being empty and not being able to draw fuel. Is that correct?

Also..what is the possibility of it being a tank venting issue? Wonder if releasing the cap shows any signs of pressure in the wrong direction. Maybe heat makes the vent fail?


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## quotedraven (Jul 3, 2016)

I had this problem on one day only. It apparently fixed itself. It was it the dealer for a while and he could not replicate the issue. I was cutting very hard wood probably dirty and my chain was likely not sharp enough. Still I could see if you were a pro that this could be a big problem but hey a pro would have multiple backups right?


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## skylogger (Jul 3, 2016)

Where does the 550 and 562 draw air from for the carburetor?


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## quotedraven (Jul 3, 2016)

skylogger said:


> Where does the 550 and 562 draw air from for the carburetor?


The filter


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## skylogger (Jul 3, 2016)

quotedraven said:


> The filter


Lol, I meant where does outside air enter the air box. When the top cover is on it looks sealed other than the cracks where the cover meets the saw.


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## reedo (Jul 3, 2016)

I have a 550xp that would not oil when new. Turns out the tube the oil traveled through was a defective part and had no channel. Is there any way it may have a defective part somewhere? Just a thought.


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## drumbum (Jul 3, 2016)

I would try to bypass the primer bulb as a test.


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## blsnelling (Jul 3, 2016)

drumbum said:


> I would try to bypass the primer bulb as a test.


And mod the muffler. The saw should run cooler.


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## Chris-PA (Jul 3, 2016)

weimedog said:


> Even so I would expect the primer to be able to pull it through...it does when you start with an empty system and then put in fuel...prime to start. It starts with straight air and can pull the fuel. How hot would that carb have to get to vaporize gasoline instantly and continuously to the point it overcomes an active "pump" like the primer?


The fuel is at or above its boiling point, and just like with steam when it changes state the volume increases drastically. In fact when you reduce the pressure on a liquid the boiling temperature drops, and that is just how the purge bulb works, by creating a lower pressure at the end of the line. 

So basically you just keep pulling vapor out of whatever liquid fuel is there, and it can supply plenty, so you never pull any liquid fuel. 

I've read that gasoline can boil as low as 90F, depending on if it is winter blend and/or is E10. I doubt it's that low in most cases, but reduce the pressure over it and there is very little margin.


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## JDschenk (Jul 3, 2016)

I got a husqvarna 562xp we use at work commercially. And we had starting issues as well, and now this summer when it turns 90 or very humid out. It leaks out so much gas it soaks the air filter. Took it to the dealer and they can't find the leak. Only leaks like that laying on clutch side.


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## MountainHigh (Jul 4, 2016)

any used 562 mufflers around? Want to gut my muffler but don't want to lose my extended warranty just yet.


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## sunfish (Jul 4, 2016)

MountainHigh said:


> any used 562 mufflers around? Want to gut my muffler but don't want to lose my extended warranty just yet.


I bought a new one from spike60 a couple years ago. Don't remember the price, but was surprised how cheap it was.


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## albert (Jul 4, 2016)

If the carb or anything before the pump (carb) is hotter than the fuels boiling/vaporization point the primer and the carb can't pull fuel no matter what until parts and fuel cool below that temperature. Not always possible, leave the saw run and don't shut it off to refuel is an option. Not something you should have to do, but is one way to get by and not feel like throwing the saw like Ted Knight threw the golf club in caddy shack.


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## weimedog (Jul 4, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> The fuel is at or above its boiling point, and just like with steam when it changes state the volume increases drastically. In fact when you reduce the pressure on a liquid the boiling temperature drops, and that is just how the purge bulb works, by creating a lower pressure at the end of the line.
> 
> So basically you just keep pulling vapor out of whatever liquid fuel is there, and it can supply plenty, so you never pull any liquid fuel.
> 
> I've read that gasoline can boil as low as 90F, depending on if it is winter blend and/or is E10. I doubt it's that low in most cases, but reduce the pressure over it and there is very little margin.



I see..


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## CoreyB (Jul 4, 2016)

Could carry some dry ice and put a little piece next to the carb when you shut it off. See if that works.


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## damifino (Jul 4, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> Could carry some dry ice and put a little piece next to the carb when you shut it off. See if that works.



Like I said, I have seen a good response from others with good concern and information about this issue and then there are some that just sound stupid.


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## Termite (Jul 4, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> The fuel is at or above its boiling point, and just like with steam when it changes state the volume increases drastically. In fact when you reduce the pressure on a liquid the boiling temperature drops, and that is just how the purge bulb works, by creating a lower pressure at the end of the line.
> 
> So basically you just keep pulling vapor out of whatever liquid fuel is there, and it can supply plenty, so you never pull any liquid fuel.
> 
> I've read that gasoline can boil as low as 90F, depending on if it is winter blend and/or is E10. I doubt it's that low in most cases, but reduce the pressure over it and there is very little margin.



Chris, do you know the boiling temperature of AVgas?
I found ExonMobil boiling 170 degrees C max = 338 F.


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## CoreyB (Jul 4, 2016)

damifino said:


> Like I said, I have seen a good response from others with good concern and information about this issue and then there are some that just sound stupid.


None as stupid as leaving a problem for years of production and ignoring the small percentage of customers that have the problems. I am sure more then a few dealers have had some unhappy customers that they can't help.
I guess my thought was if you could get the temp down and would allow a guy to get back to work instead of standing around waiting for it to cool down. 
I guess that is stupid.


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## Termite (Jul 4, 2016)

I just read the most thorough and concise write up about av gas. This was a good read for me.
Maybe the fuel is the solution?
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/threads/100ll-avgas-ok-to-run.44599/


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## CR888 (Jul 5, 2016)

Reflective heat shield tape directing heat AWAY from carb should help a lot. This is not a AT or fuel related issue folks.


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## blsnelling (Jul 5, 2016)

This is available at Lowe's.


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## SCHallenger (Jul 5, 2016)

Termite said:


> I just read the most thorough and concise write up about av gas. This was a good read for me.
> Maybe the fuel is the solution?
> http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/threads/100ll-avgas-ok-to-run.44599/



Nice link. Very interesting! This might fire up a new round of "oil thread opinions"!!


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## CoreyB (Jul 5, 2016)

blsnelling said:


> This is available at Lowe's.


Wow if it is that simple of a fix that would be nice.


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## Termite (Jul 5, 2016)

SCHallenger said:


> Nice link. Very interesting! This might fire up a new round of "oil thread opinions"!!



I don't want to be blamed if that should happen.


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## SCHallenger (Jul 5, 2016)

Termite said:


> I don't want to be blamed if that should happen.


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## CR888 (Jul 5, 2016)

I believe husky will make significant design changes preventing this issue in future models. What's on offer now is a band aid solution to retrofit to existing saws in the market place and new saws built on the existing design. While it obviously helps the issue, I believe one can do more with a little effort & thought. Many two stokes in used in various applications suffer vapour lock related issues, its nothing new neither are the solutions to deal with it. Some heat shield tape cut and installed in the right places will of cause reduce heat soaking of the carb.


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## MountainHigh (Jul 5, 2016)

ya I have some aluminum tape - going to give it a try! may try fire-walling fuel lines near major heat source as well.


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## CR888 (Jul 6, 2016)

Report back your results. That's great!


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## MountainHigh (Jul 6, 2016)

sunfish said:


> I bought a new one from spike60 a couple years ago. Don't remember the price, but was surprised how cheap it was.



Can I assume you gutted that 2nd muffler, ran with it and have had no heat issues with your 562xp?


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## MountainHigh (Jul 6, 2016)

CR888 said:


> Report back your results. That's great!


might take a while to find some hot hot days to really put it through its paces.


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## zogger (Jul 6, 2016)

MountainHigh said:


> might take a while to find some hot hot days to really put it through its paces.



I'll check in soon with my friend the local husky wrench. It hasn't been hot here, it has been HOT, with chunky style humidity. I'll ask if he has had many autotunes come in with hot start issues lately. We are not at high altitude though...


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## sunfish (Jul 6, 2016)

MountainHigh said:


> Can I assume you gutted that 2nd muffler, ran with it and have had no heat issues with your 562xp?


I gutted the first muffler and did a crappy job so I sold it (the muffler). I did a mild mod on the 2nd one, didn't gut it completely. Saw runs just as strong, but isn't as loud. Never had Any issues with this saw.


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## MountainHigh (Jul 7, 2016)

sunfish said:


> I gutted the first muffler and did a crappy job so I sold it (the muffler). I did a mild mod on the 2nd one, didn't gut it completely. Saw runs just as strong, but isn't as loud. Never had Any issues with this saw.



Any tips for opening the muffler up some? Looks like a tall order if trying to do it without cutting and welding.


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## sunfish (Jul 7, 2016)

MountainHigh said:


> Any tips for opening the muffler up some? Looks like a tall order if trying to do it without cutting and welding.


I drilled another outlet hole beside the org one under the deflector and a few more holes in the baffle plate. Clean and easy. No cutting & welding on this one.


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## weimedog (Jul 7, 2016)

I just use a die grinder and cut out the section of the baffle directly in front of the exhaust port. Puts the exhaust on the top side of the baffle and less heat gets trapped on the lower side therefore less to the cases as well. And either open up the existing exit to keep all the opening under a spark arrestor screen or braze in a tube depending on the customer and application. Actually drops the temperature of the entire saw. Will it keep the carb cooler?? Haven't measured a before & after scenario. Don't know. I haven't experienced the issue yet either though. All of mine have muffler mods and cut covers. Also looking at the air box of that saw. Looking to possibly vent to allow air in from a different location to help cool the carb. Most of the air is "pushed" in by the flywheel. All those wires and clips are right on that side. That can't help. Also If reflective tape is to be used, it would need to be on the cylinder side of that dam. AND the cylinder is really close to that plastic dam. Might be fun to mill some heat sinks for the top of the carb.. Would need air flow to cross them..


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## Andyshine77 (Jul 8, 2016)

Just an observation here. I was looking over my 562 carefully just because. Now I noticed this on my 550 as well, and wasn't sure if I liked it. The fuel lines are extremely pliable, almost like they're made from silicone. I'm thinking I may try putting some small O-rings on every connection I can. My idea is the lines may be getting too soft in extreme heat. What do you guys think? 

My goal is to try and find something other than just removing heat, that will resolve these issues without drastically modifying the saw from it's original state. 



Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## CoreyB (Jul 8, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> Just an observation here. I was looking over my 562 carefully just because. Now I noticed this on my 550 as well, and wasn't sure if I liked it. The fuel lines are extremely pliable, almost like they're made from silicone. I'm thinking I may try putting some small O-rings on every connection I can. My idea is the lines may be getting too soft in extreme heat. What do you guys think?
> 
> My goal is to try and find something other than just removing heat, that will resolve these issues without drastically modifying the saw from it's original state.
> 
> ...


It is definitely worth a try. I hear refrigerant O-rings hold up well to fuel and can be gotten in the size that should work to create a pretty robust seal. I wouldn't think it would cost more then a few bucks probably less if you have a friend in heating and cooling.


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## CR888 (Jul 8, 2016)

If you cover fuel lines in heat shield tape orings should not be needed. Can't remember if 5 series have impulse hose or direct from carb but that impulse relationship between carb & crankcase is how a lot of heat is transferred.


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## Chris-PA (Jul 8, 2016)

CR888 said:


> but that impulse relationship between carb & crankcase is how a lot of heat is transferred.


As I speculated up thread, the strato air passages are connecting the transfers to the air valve next to the carb. Granted the air valve should be closed, but you've still got a channel from the cylinder to the carb area, right past any partitions. 

Since the saws I have this problem with are not all strato, and given that the boiling point of fuel can be quite low, it's actually surprising to me that more saws don't have this issue. Andre's Echo 590 upthread was on the hairy edge, so it's just a matter of a few degrees - not much margin. I could believe a small thing might make the difference. In my case I have no doubt the thing that causes me to have more problems is E10, but without that the difference might just be a matter of different vent construction, or maybe those strato air passages.


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## MountainHigh (Jul 8, 2016)

some good thoughts here which may lead to some real solutions ... 
We'll need to start a rough invoice to Husky for troubleshooting services rendered


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## fatboycowen (Jul 8, 2016)

skylogger said:


> Lol, I meant where does outside air enter the air box. When the top cover is on it looks sealed other than the cracks where the cover meets the saw.



I feel like an idiot bringing this up. When i read this i thought "duh, the air injection system", but then i looked on 3 of my husky saws, and i can't see where the air comes in. It appears that the carb box is sealed all around. What am i missing?


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## skylogger (Jul 8, 2016)

I finally figured it out there is a plastic piece beside the flywheel with a hole in it that shoots straight into the air box [emoji1]


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## Termite (Jul 20, 2016)

[email protected] degrees outside, I did about twenty back to back cuts in 20 inch oak with my tlandrum 2260. I let the saw sit for 9 minutes, I timed it. The purge pump did not work however, the saw started on the first pull and revved up just fine from the get-go.
I was a little surprised by this. 
I am wondering if I waited long enough before restarting?


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## pro94lt (Jul 20, 2016)

Termite said:


> [email protected] degrees outside, I did about twenty back to back cuts in 20 inch oak with my tlandrum 2260. I let the saw sit for 9 minutes, I timed it. The purge pump did not work however, the saw started on the first pull and revved up just fine from the get-go.
> I was a little surprised by this.
> I am wondering if I waited long enough before restarting?


Not all of them do it... Dont be surprised if it starts be surprised if it doesn't...


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## Andyshine77 (Jul 20, 2016)

Termite said:


> [email protected] degrees outside, I did about twenty back to back cuts in 20 inch oak with my tlandrum 2260. I let the saw sit for 9 minutes, I timed it. The purge pump did not work however, the saw started on the first pull and revved up just fine from the get-go.
> I was a little surprised by this.
> I am wondering if I waited long enough before restarting?



Maybe not long enough, maybe too long, maybe your saw runs as it should. I'm a bit surprised it ran with the primer not working, as the carb likely won't have any fuel. Did you try actually cutting, or did you just rev it a little? My saw would sometimes rev a bit, but didn't have enough fuel to actually cut. 

Hopefully you just have one that works in the heat, which seems to be a rare.


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## Chris-PA (Jul 20, 2016)

Termite said:


> [email protected] degrees outside, I did about twenty back to back cuts in 20 inch oak with my tlandrum 2260. I let the saw sit for 9 minutes, I timed it. The purge pump did not work however, the saw started on the first pull and revved up just fine from the get-go.
> I was a little surprised by this.
> I am wondering if I waited long enough before restarting?


Did you use the choke or just do a normal hot start?


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## Termite (Jul 20, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> Did you use the choke or just do a normal hot start?


I set the fast idle with no choke and it started. It ran fine after the restart. I will do the test again tomorrow and maybe the 2253 also. Right now it is only 86 degrees.


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## Andyshine77 (Jul 20, 2016)

Termite said:


> I set the fast idle with no choke and it started. It ran fine after the restart. I will do the test again tomorrow and maybe the 2253 also. Right now it is only 86 degrees.


Letting it sit in the sun seems to make things even worse. 86 is plenty hot for this experiment.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## MountainHigh (Jul 20, 2016)

Still cool weather here with a delayed summer ... saw running flawlessly.


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## CoreyB (Jul 20, 2016)

94 today and I ran two tanks through the saw and one through the weed eater. I have more trouble keeping me working then my equipment. Man that heat kicks my ... but on the plus side I am down another 14 pounds this month.


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## CR888 (Jul 21, 2016)

If you don't take preventative measures to prevent vapour lock in a unit that your sure its going to bother you that day as its hot, try to keep it running until you have done your work. The carb will stay cool under operation due to the venturi effect. Once you shut down the engine that's when the heat soaks the carb. Not always possible with refills etc but understanding the issue will help best manage it.


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## Termite (Jul 21, 2016)

Today it was nice and warm, about 95 degrees. I made some cuts with the 2260, gee it runs good, and let it sit for 13 minutes in the sun, (the last attempt I waited 9 minutes). The primer bulb was empty and would not work and the saw would not start. So I got some tape and taped the throttle wide open. It started on the second or third pull. I hit the kill switch right away because I could not get the tape off quickly. Restarted again but it would not rev up until it idled for about 30 seconds, after that it ran fine.
I then did the same test with the 2253. The primer was empty on it too and would not work. However, it started on the second or third pull and ran fine immediately.
I have some AV gas mix so tomorrow I will test with it and see what happens.


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## CR888 (Jul 21, 2016)

I too have found wide open throttle is what's needs for heat soaked restarts. Kinda hard to pin the trigger & pull starter cord but it works if its not to bad. If you run out of gas & need to refill the quicker one does this the better. I will let a unit idle for a couple of mins to bring temps down, refill quick and restart before carb gets too hot. PITA


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## SCHallenger (Jul 21, 2016)

Termite said:


> Today it was nice and warm, about 95 degrees. I made some cuts with the 2260, gee it runs good, and let it sit for 13 minutes in the sun, (the last attempt I waited 9 minutes). The primer bulb was empty and would not work and the saw would not start. So I got some tape and taped the throttle wide open. It started on the second or third pull. I hit the kill switch right away because I could not get the tape off quickly. Restarted again but it would not rev up until it idled for about 30 seconds, after that it ran fine.
> I then did the same test with the 2253. The primer was empty on it too and would not work. However, it started on the second or third pull and ran fine immediately.
> I have some AV gas mix so tomorrow I will test with it and see what happens.



You'll probably hit 100 deg. tomorrow!!


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## Chris-PA (Jul 21, 2016)

CR888 said:


> I too have found wide open throttle is what's needs for heat soaked restarts. Kinda hard to pin the trigger & pull starter cord but it works if its not to bad. If you run out of gas & need to refill the quicker one does this the better. I will let a unit idle for a couple of mins to bring temps down, refill quick and restart before carb gets too hot. PITA


Yup, that's the routine. Plus setting it in the shade, using the choke hot, etc. It is a PITA but at least if you know what's going on you have some idea what to do. I still end up unable to start one now and then, but that's where the second saw comes in.


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## Termite (Jul 22, 2016)

Today, I did the same procedure using the 2260 only this time I changed the fuel to AV gas. I set the fast idle and it started and ran with power immediately. This worked today but I wouldn't bet on it working tomorrow.
I will repeat this test tomorrow. It was cooler today a refreshing 88 degrees.


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## Termite (Jul 23, 2016)

This afternoon, I repeated the test with AV gas and the results were the same as yesterday. I pumped the purge a few times and set the fast idle and it started on the first pull.
I may try it one more time, if it starts like today I am done.


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## Termite (Jul 24, 2016)

Well, I just came in all wet from sweat. I ran the saw out of gas, refilled it and let it sit for 14 minutes in the sun. I then pumped the primer and set the fast idle. The saw started on the second pull.
My conclusion is Av gas eliminates hot start issues, for me anyway. Does it run as good on AV gas as non-alcohol fuel? I can't tell a difference. At least with the "auto-tune" you can switch back and forth and not have to re-tune.


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## aokpops (Jul 24, 2016)

Never read threw all the post . Had this problem in 2012 can't remember exactly how I did it . I know I pulled the choke an may be fast idle this was after the dercho storm an was very hot out . Other wise the saw would not start, was running a 394 never had that trouble before or after


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## Solrael (Jul 25, 2016)

I only just saw this thread, your video and symptoms are exactly the same as mine. My top end is being rebuilt (at my expense) so I'll let you know if anything changes. I will be modifying my top cover when I get it back though, and I'm thinking I'll look into modifying my muffler as suggested.


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## SCHallenger (Jul 25, 2016)

Termite said:


> Well, I just came in all wet from sweat. I ran the saw out of gas, refilled it and let it sit for 14 minutes in the sun. I then pumped the primer and set the fast idle. The saw started on the second pull.
> My conclusion is Av gas eliminates hot start issues, for me anyway. Does it run as good on AV gas as non-alcohol fuel? I can't tell a difference. At least with the "auto-tune" you can switch back and forth and not have to re-tune.



Thanks for all this. It has been very helpful. Andre's next post should be interesting. I'm guessing that, between his & your info, the mysteries should be solved!


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## Termite (Jul 26, 2016)

I wonder what some vents like these would do for the hot start issue. A screen or foam under the vents could keep dust out and let hot air out also.


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## Chris-PA (Jul 26, 2016)

Termite said:


> I wonder what some vents like these would do for the hot start issue. A screen or foam under the vents could keep dust out and let hot air out also.


I've thought about various venting schemes, but when I pick up a saw that has been shut off and has heat soaked, the amount of heat radiating off of it is just tremendous. Then it is hard to imagine any sort of convective, non-fan forced cooling system doing much of anything. I don't know what the difference is between saws that have a problem with heat soak vapor lock and ones that don't, but I have to guess that it has to do with the amount of heat energy left stored in the metal parts before shut off, and how easily that gets into the fuel system after shut off.

Basically, my gut feel is that the venting needs to be getting heat out while there is still a running fan to drive it, and that convective venting after shut off will be far less effective. But that is all just a guess, as you'd need a imaging camera to really look at the situation.


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## Termite (Jul 26, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> Basically, my gut feel is that the venting needs to be getting heat out while there is still a running fan to drive it, and that convective venting after shut off will be far less effective. But that is all just a guess, as you'd need a imaging camera to really look at the situation.


 
Or ya could just make the vents and try it. However, I don't know if I want to do that to my cover, it's still pretty.


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## blsnelling (Jul 26, 2016)

I don't see that being a viable solution. New saws with these from the factory still have issues.


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## reedo (Jul 26, 2016)

I have a 550(15 model) and 562(16 model) and have not had any problems yet. I do notice these saws seem to run freakin HOT! After 20 minutes of cutting I noticed they seemed hotter than what I remember my 026,044, & 066 being after running that long. Maybe it's just me as I haven't run them since last year in the heat though. I do recall the 026 getting hot a couple years ago doing the same work but can't remember how long it was run. I only have a couple hours on each of short run times clearing trails in 80-95 degree heat.


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## SCHallenger (Jul 26, 2016)

reedo said:


> I have a 550(15 model) and 562(16 model) and have not had any problems yet. I do notice these saws seem to run freakin HOT! After 20 minutes of cutting I noticed they seemed hotter than what I remember my 026,044, & 066 being after running that long. Maybe it's just me as I haven't run them since last year in the heat though. I do recall the 026 getting hot a couple years ago doing the same work but can't remember how long it was run. I only have a couple hours on each of short run times clearing trails in 80-95 degree heat.



Have you done a MM on either one?


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## CR888 (Jul 27, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> I've thought about various venting schemes, but when I pheatup a saw that has been shut off and has heat soaked, the amount of heat radiating off of it is just tremendous. Then is is hard to imagine any sort of convective, non-fan forced cooling system doing much of anything. I don't know what the difference is between saws that have a problem with heat soak vapor lock and ones that don't, but I have to guess that it has to do with the amount of heat energy left stored in the metal parts before shut off, and how easily that gets into the fuel system after shut off.
> 
> Basically, my gut feel is that the venting needs to be getting heat out while there is still a running fan to drive it, and that convective venting after shut off will be far less effective. But that is all just a guess, as you'd need a imaging camera to really look at the situation.


Very good post! The problem starts when the saw is shut down...a vent won't really stop the transfer of heat


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## CoreyB (Jul 27, 2016)

CR888 said:


> Very good post! The problem starts when the saw is shut down...a vent won't really stop the transfer of heat


Like I said previously and was told I was stupid what about taking the top cover off three clips and heat goes up. I know nor convenient or always possible but I would try it if if I where having those troubles.


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## drumbum (Jul 27, 2016)

Somebody needs to adapt a miniature Stirling engine powered fan to these saws.


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## CR888 (Jul 27, 2016)

I think the impulse-crankcase relationship has a bit to do with it and perhaps the new layed back cylinder design allows more heat to soak the carb than on more traditional designs. There is definitely design reasons the 562 is so prone to this.


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## Jeffkrib (Jul 28, 2016)

Give the carb a light spray if its to hot to start.... Not a soaking


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## reedo (Jul 29, 2016)

SCHallenger said:


> Have you done a MM on either one?


No they are both stock.


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## SCHallenger (Jul 29, 2016)

reedo said:


> No they are both stock.



I gave my 562 (2013) a pretty good workout a couple of mos. ago, & noticed that it was hotter than my Stihls (261 & 200) get under similar load conditions. All of them do have MMs.


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## sawguys (Jul 30, 2016)

Coming in late on this, and I haven't gone through each post individually -, but I'm assuming that the IPL for hot start issues has been performed?

"New fuel tank ventilation kit. Due to warm start problem."
Fuel tank ventilation kit 587 64 54-01.


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## pro94lt (Jul 31, 2016)




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## damifino (Jul 31, 2016)

My kind a humor right there.


pro94lt said:


> View attachment 516798


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## Cycledude (Jul 31, 2016)

Thanks for posting the description and the actual part number ! Should make things a little easier if I ever take saw back to my dealer.



sawguys said:


> Coming in late on this, and I haven't gone through each post individually -, but I'm assuming that the IPL for hot start issues has been performed?
> 
> "New fuel tank ventilation kit. Due to warm start problem."
> Fuel tank ventilation kit 587 64 54-01.


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## sawguys (Jul 31, 2016)

I can get you a price on the kit, if you don't want to take it back in to the dealer.


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## blsnelling (Jul 31, 2016)

Wouldn't this kit already be on saws being sold new right now, the same ones still having issues?


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## Cycledude (Aug 1, 2016)

Thanks but my saw came with a four year warranty so there's over two years left, since I've learned a little about the issue it's usually preventable by doing some easier work for a few minutes befor shutting the saw off, but I do plan to take it back sometime befor warranty runs out. 



sawguys said:


> I can get you a price on the kit, if you don't want to take it back in to the dealer.


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## Andyshine77 (Aug 17, 2016)

Just a quick update. I ran the 562 all I could last weekend, temps were in the mid 80's and overcast. The saw struggled to restart and starved for fuel. Heat is still likely the issues, at the bottom of a log the exhaust blow back and top cover was extremely hot. 

The saw is going to Spike60 to see if he can find anything, sounds like a new carb might be in order. 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## drumbum (Aug 17, 2016)

Luck to ya.


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## MountainHigh (Aug 18, 2016)

*Finally getting hot here (delayed summer this year) but the woods are closed now (fire risk).

Andre' ... please let us know what Spike60 finds. I'm going to look at that new tank vent in the Fall when I can get back out into the woods.


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## cedarshark (Aug 18, 2016)

I never owned these afflicted saws so never paid much mind to this thread. Friend of mine had a 20' Bur oak blow over on his greenhouse. I loaned him my (new to me) used 575. He called me 30 minutes later and said it will not restart from making 5-6 cuts in that trunk. Took me half and hour to drive over there .....saw started right up and ran fine until we finished the tree. I thought he was crazy but now I know what the prob is. It was 104 degrees in the shade. Prob 108-110 in the sun. Does anyone know if there are more reports of this hot start issue w/ the 575 ?


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## CR888 (Aug 18, 2016)

Heat soak issues are common with many two strokes, being a warm summer in the US many seem to be noticing this. I don't believe solutions are about replacing parts. They are not defected when they get heat soaked but rather cease to function normally. Many OEMs use heat protection under mufflers etc. While not always possible try to keep saw running in hot conditions.


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## Andyshine77 (Aug 18, 2016)

CR888 said:


> Heat soak issues are common with many two strokes, being a warm summer in the US many seem to be noticing this. I don't believe solutions are about replacing parts. They are not defected when they get heat soaked but rather cease to function normally. Many OEMs use heat protection under mufflers etc. While not always possible try to keep saw running in hot conditions.


Very true. However I've cut in the heat for years and never experienced anything like this. Something isn't right, either with this saw, or the design of the saw. I've had several people pm me stating they have the exact same problem, and wondering if I or anyone else has found a solution. We'll see what happens.


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## newforest (Sep 16, 2016)

Hello, I purchased a 562XP recently and talked this over with my shop. They only had new 2016 versions on hand - with the new, taller cylinder cover, which also has a bigger hole cut in it for heat dissipation. Perhaps these can be retro'd onto previous models?

I won't be seeing any heat issues till next year of course but in discussing the problem, the dealer suggested the old time solution to vapor locking engines is to open the fuel cap immediately when the fuel runs out and then to leave it open for several minutes after fueling, to let heat escape from the fuel itself. Though this would leave the cut-out around the cylinder facing the ground, which might be cooler than the air, but might not be.

It's been a long time since I have even thought about vapor lock, but that all made sense.

That swept back cylinder cover did look cool ... and still does on my 550XP


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## Cycledude (Sep 16, 2016)

At the logging expo in Oshkosh last week they were selling brandnew 562's for $488


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## Chris-PA (Sep 16, 2016)

newforest said:


> Hello, I purchased a 562XP recently and talked this over with my shop. They only had new 2016 versions on hand - with the new, taller cylinder cover, which also has a bigger hole cut in it for heat dissipation. Perhaps these can be retro'd onto previous models?
> 
> I won't be seeing any heat issues till next year of course but in discussing the problem, the dealer suggested the old time solution to vapor locking engines is to open the fuel cap immediately when the fuel runs out and then to leave it open for several minutes after fueling, to let heat escape from the fuel itself. Though this would leave the cut-out around the cylinder facing the ground, which might be cooler than the air, but might not be.
> 
> ...


I doubt that would really help. The fuel seems to be boiling in the carb or the lines. The fuel pump is in the carb, it is trying to pull fuel from the tank and it cannot pull vapor.

If I were to design a fuel system to deal with vapor lock caused by heat soak and fuel that boils at a low temp, I would put the pump in the tank so it could push liquid fuel. I've been considering just that - using the top cover and pump diaphragm off a WT, mounted to a plate with two holes that match the flap valves and fuel barbs pressed in. It would need an impulse line too. This could be put into the tank so it would push fuel to the carb. The pump in the carb could probably be bypassed. On my 42cc Poulan the fuel cap opening is quite large and I might be able to get it in the tank, plus it has a second purge bulb hole to the tank that could be used for the impulse line. However, I'm not sure the pump would work when the tank pressure was high and I've been too lazy to look into it.

Still, designing a push type fuel system would be trivial for the manufacturers, but I get the feeling their engineers don't know much of anything about the fuel systems they buy from Walbro and ZAMA, and don't understand what the issue is.


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## weimedog (Sep 16, 2016)

Cycledude said:


> At the logging expo in Oshkosh last week they were selling brandnew 562's for $488


Did you buy one??


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## CoreyB (Sep 16, 2016)

Cycledude said:


> At the logging expo in Oshkosh last week they were selling brandnew 562's for $488


Well that is easier to swallow.
That is way below dealer cost.


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## sunfish (Sep 16, 2016)

Cycledude said:


> At the logging expo in Oshkosh last week they were selling brandnew 562's for $488


I would have bought 2 or 3 at that price.


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## blsnelling (Sep 16, 2016)

Any word on your saw, @Andyshine77 ?


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## CR888 (Sep 16, 2016)

While I have never had hot start issues with my 555, while cleaning the air filter the other day, I had the shroud off and took a good look at the layed back cylinder design. With exhaust flange pointing down on a steep angle and postition of carb so high compared with traditional designs I can see perhaps why this design is prone to heat soak issues. It seems any residual crankcase/cylinder heat wants to rise to the carb through intake/impulse relationship. I can't see Spike being able to change this through factory approved method. I think the design itself is at fault and not a component failure problem. I'd go to town protecting the carb with a $10 roll of quality heat shield tape. Just my 2cents. I'd like to hear what Spike is thinking in regards to this PITA issue.


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## Cycledude (Sep 16, 2016)

weimedog said:


> Did you buy one??





sunfish said:


> I would have bought 2 or 3 at that price.



The price was without bar and chain and you have to buy 3 saws to get that price, still a very nice deal.
I already own a 562 but there was a guy there looking to split the cost with someone if he bought 3.


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## Andyshine77 (Sep 17, 2016)

blsnelling said:


> Any word on your saw, @Andyshine77 ?


Bob still has saw, I told him to look at it when he gets the time.


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## Andyshine77 (Oct 27, 2016)

Update on the saw.

The clutch side crank seal had a small slow leak under vacume. Bob had issues installing a new seal, he believes the new updated bearings may have updated seals as well, even though the part numbers are still the same. In the end Husky sent Bob a new short block, as he wasted a bag of seals trying to get one to seat correctly. As of now it's still unclear if it's a wrong part issue, or something was up with the case or crank. The saw was ran a few time and he tried his best to simulate the issues I had, the weather was in the low 80's, the saw ran just fine. Obviously the conditions were different, but there's nothing we can do about that. The real test will likely come next summer, so it will be awhile before that happens. I will get some time on the saw in the next week or so, plenty of standing dead Ash trees around these days.

I am more than pleased with the way Bob aka Spike60 handled this, he's very professional, and he went out of his way to get this squared away. Even though I'm sure Bob loves these types of threads.

Was this the cause of the hot start issues? again I really don't know. Maybe the saw was running a little Lean/hot causing the fuel delivery problems? I have to come clean, I still have my doubts, and in the back of my little brain I'm still thinking a design issue. Time will tell, and I'll be totally upfront with the results one way or the other. I really hope these saws are just having qc issues, as that's an easier problem to correct, and I do like the saw.

Andre.


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## svk (Oct 28, 2016)

Well glad to hear it's coming home and not a surprise Bob took good care of you. 

I'm no expert on AT but it's my understanding that the 562's are factory tuned right to the point of perfect or maybe slightly to the lean side of perfect. And like you said that leak may or may not have contributed to the problem but it certainly wasn't improving anything for you!


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## Firewoodcutter71 (Oct 30, 2018)

I have had this issue twice. the last time it was about 60F out. I could not get it re-started for the life of me. A few days later I ran it a bunch and found if I didn't touch the choke, primer bulb or decomp it fired right even after sitting for 30 minutes while skidding logs out. I don't think the fuel was ever boiling it looked fine in the bulb but when it would not start I had ran hard shut it off with the choke by mistake.


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## Baumantreeservices (Mar 19, 2019)

Andyshine77 said:


> Update on the saw.
> 
> The clutch side crank seal had a small slow leak under vacume. Bob had issues installing a new seal, he believes the new updated bearings may have updated seals as well, even though the part numbers are still the same. In the end Husky sent Bob a new short block, as he wasted a bag of seals trying to get one to seat correctly. As of now it's still unclear if it's a wrong part issue, or something was up with the case or crank. The saw was ran a few time and he tried his best to simulate the issues I had, the weather was in the low 80's, the saw ran just fine. Obviously the conditions were different, but there's nothing we can do about that. The real test will likely come next summer, so it will be awhile before that happens. I will get some time on the saw in the next week or so, plenty of standing dead Ash trees around these days.
> 
> ...



Great thread..,have you concluded it to be a design issue? Im having the same problems with mine


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## Andyshine77 (Mar 20, 2019)

Baumantreeservices said:


> Great thread..,have you concluded it to be a design issue? Im having the same problems with mine


Yes it is a design problem, it is one of the major reasons why the 550xp and 562xp are being completely redesigned. In fact the new 550xp mark II is expected to be in dealers any day now. 

Getting the heat out of the carb box area is the best solution. Opening up the exhaust and plugging the decompression valve also helps.


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## Brent Nowell (Aug 4, 2019)

I just read through every page of this thread. I have the same problem on my 550, primer bulb pumps air, and saw will not start or will but dies with any throttle.
This happens after leaving the saw for about 2 minutes +

After reading all the posts this is def a heat issue due to design. I was looking at the 550 mk2 and it seems that the cooling fins for the cylinder are further away from the carb. Fins are at a different angle but piston angle is the same, maybe this was huskys fix?

Bobe8888 I have seen your other video with an insulated carb box plate, did this work?

I have two ideas myself if this does not.

Make another hole in the air injection shaft at the lowest point possible. Then make a small slit on the top of the cover on the side just in front of where the filter sits.
When the saw stops without this mod, heat soaks from the cylinder through the wall causing vapour lock. But with this mod it could allow convection currents to do the cooling for you, cooler air rises and now that there is a place for it to go it dissipates heat.

I think the key here is to make sure that the holes are not to big on the top cover so that air flow is not robbed from cooling the fins of the cylinder.

My other idea is to insulate the fuel line itself, I was thinking of sleeping it with larger rubber tubing to insulate it from heat.
After reading this thread and google searching it appears that gas evaporated rapidly above 30 degrees C. It can boil as low as 60 C maybe less.

I’ll have to take a look at my unit and see if these ideas are even possible, but I really want to here what bobe has to say about his insulation trick.


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## Brent Nowell (Aug 4, 2019)

Ok the air injection port is low enough for sure to allow cool air to come up through convection. But as I mentioned there needs to be a hole for these currents to flow...

I added these three, if need be I can plug them off. You can see in one of the shots these holes are in obstructed by the air filter and have a straight line of sight to the Top of the carb boot. 

Air should flow when the saw is off from the air injection port, to the hottest side of the carb, to the holes.

If I could get an idea for some kind of way of measuring temperature, I could do a test of before and after. 

Eliminating variables would be

Same day (hot around 30C/90F) 
Same fuel/mix (91 AKI)
No wind conditions for hottest effect

Variable would be
Ten mins with the holes plugged
Ten mins without the holes plugged

Temperature readings before and after the test for both situations

I figure the probe for the temp would be mounted on the carb itself as it has the greatest thermal conductivity. Suggestions welcome


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## Andyshine77 (Aug 4, 2019)

Another dealer informed me that sometimes the fuel line can collapse when it tries to suck fuel, so replacing the fuel line has alleviated a issue for some. I never liked a few lines on these saws are way too pliable.


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## Andyshine77 (Aug 4, 2019)

When it comes to testing carb temps it sure would be nice is we could buck the saw up to the common service tool, but Husky and Stihl dropped the ball there. A temp gun may work, but I fine them somewhat inaccurate, a thermal coupler would probably be the ticket. I likely wouldn't try insulating the fuel line, I don't think that would do much, but than again anything is worth a try.[emoji106]


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## Brent Nowell (Aug 4, 2019)

So are you still having the issues with the heat tape?

Yes I was thinking a thermocouple style probe... I think a computer style one would probably be best, they are the size of a match head. 
I could even stick my meat digital thermometer in one of the holes I drilled and watch the temps...


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## Brent Nowell (Aug 5, 2019)

Went out today, it was 28C out with no wind.

Stuck the meat thermometer in the car right hole and tried to center it. 
The coolest it got in the air box was 115F this was at full load bucking cookies like no tomorrow. Saw got very hot, wood chips were starting to smoulder on the exhaust.

When I turned it off and let it sit the temp inside slowly climbed, as high as 171F
In the picture this was where it started to slow down in its temperature climb, but a minute later reached 171.
Heat is soaking into the air box from the cylinder slowly, this is probably why it takes about 4 minutes to reach this temp.

I tried to restart and nothing, the air holes are not good enough. Primer bulb was pushing air. However... when I put it into half choke it did run, and after about 10 seconds of this it did not die and was responding to throttle.

I plugged the other two holes for another test after it was shut off when really hot. The temperature climbed one degree every 5 seconds. With the holes un plugged it rose one degree every 11 seconds. 
So it is working, it’s just not big enough or something else is happening here... 

I did pull the cap off at one point when it was vapour locked and I was getting positive pressure. This tells me that it can’t be a line collapsing problem... unless it’s getting kinked in the tank or something? 

The tank did not seem hot at all, and when I pulled the cover the carb was just a little warm to the touch... 


I’m gonna make the hole in the air box larger by squaring it out.. I might even add another hole to the bottom of the air box for better convection currents. 

Could this issue be due to too low a pop off pressure on the carb? Liquids under pressure increase their boiling temp...


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## Andyshine77 (Aug 5, 2019)

Still issues with the tape, but it helped. The lines are real soft and could get pinched, doubt that's your issue though. From what I know the carb internal temps have shown 130°F or better when info was pulled from the ECU. Some of the heat is likely coming straight from the engine up tge intake boot, that's not something we can really stop from happening. It would be interesting to see what larger holes in the cover would do, I believe a new covers like $30 so not a huge loss.


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## Brent Nowell (Aug 5, 2019)

Yes that’s what I was thinking, if the holes do not work no huge loss. 

That’s a good theory about the carb intake carrying heat back to the carb from cylinder. 
And yea nothing we can do about that! Wonder if the mark 2 has a more horizontal carb boot?

I also noticed very little air coming out of the holes at full throttle, so I don’t think making them bigger will rob cooling from the cylinder


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## Chris-PA (Aug 5, 2019)

As I wrote upthread the carb box is conected to the flywheel and cylinder through the turbo clean duct. When you try to restart a heat soaked & vapor locked saw it pulls in extremely hot air right of the aluminum flywheel, and near the cylinder fins. So the carb does not cool off by pulling in fresh cool air and it stays vapor locked. 

You need to add enough of a fresh air hole that it does not pull in hot air, and possibly block the turbo clean duct. You may need to restart on choke, but once it gets some cool air flowing through the carb it will cool off fast.

I liked turbo clean and converted some of my saws to it, but it was a bad idea for hot weather. Especially with the E10 I run. It is essentaily carb heat on steroids. None of my saws without turbo clean have this issue, and with a 3/4" hole right off the filter my Poulans don't either now.


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## MountainHigh (Aug 5, 2019)

As I've mentioned in another thread, the aluminum tape firewall has made the greatest impact on hot start issues for my 2013 562xp. I used simple aluminum foil tape sticky one side. The thermal tape others speak about might be better but I haven't seen or used it.

When I removed the tape earlier this year cause it started looking a little ratty, it got tough to hot start again even though my case hole is cut a little larger than the stock new 562 case and muffler in and out holes are double size. So once again I wrapped 2 layers of aluminum tape fully around all possible entry exit points into the carb area making a decent aluminum firewall and she settled right down again.

Haven't been out in blistering hot weather this year as I did most of my firewood back in June/July, but I left her sitting in the sun between bucking up logs steady (run hard without pause for 3/4 tank at a time) and she pulled over easy every time I shut down for refill or between logs.


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## Brent Nowell (Aug 15, 2019)

I just ran the saw for 4 minutes straight edging a log with the 20” bar buried. Was very hard on the saw using 3/8 milling chain and she got very hot. I won’t do this again cause I’m gonna burn it out if I keep it up. However saw sat for 3 minutes and it fired up after 2-3 pulls with no priming and no fast start. Revved up.
This is hardly conclusive but it was 27C out today and I was right in the sun. Heat tape on the primer lines and on a bit of the carb along with knocking out a hole in the bottom of the air box are the only other changes made. Oh yes I did put the heat tape on the inside of the air box on the divider instead of on the cooling fin side.

I’ll continue to use it and post results


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## Tinman204 (Aug 15, 2019)

Ive only had one hot start issue this summer with my 562, it was 36 degrees celcius outside with a humidity index of like 42. I felled, limbed and cut up like 2 cord of wood with the saw that day. It was HOT, way too HOT for saw work. 

My 044 amd 365 would also not restart that day either so I chocked it up to me being silly that day. Those 2 saws always restart..

My 562 is a 2014, if I follow the manuals hot start method the saw starts every time when its hot no issues. If temps are below 28c i can just pull the cord like any other saw and it fires up. 

If its super hot out and I forget to prime it and put it on fast idle its a toss up if it will start. 

I may try a divider soon to see if it changes how the saw starts.


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## NeSurfcaster (Apr 3, 2020)

HI, I've read this whole thread after receiving my 562 today. I was hoping to see some pics of where the heat tape is going on. I saw the 1 pic of heat tape wrapped around the intake but it seemed like guys were putting it on other spots too. If anybody has some pics of where the best places are to place the heat tape. Thanks for any pics guys


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## Andyshine77 (Apr 3, 2020)

This is what I ended up doing.


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## NeSurfcaster (Apr 3, 2020)

Thanks Mr. Shine


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## Junkwrencher (Apr 5, 2020)

Andyshine77 said:


> First off I want to be clear I have absolutely no brand preference whatsoever, and at this time I own 7 Husqvarna saws, more than any other brand. This thread and the fallowing video is not intended to bash this model, Husqvarna, those who sell them, or use them.
> 
> With that being said, my new 562xp will not restart after use in hot humid 90° weather, even when only sitting a minute or two. The primer would not pull fuel, and the saw was obviously not getting enough fuel from the carb. The saw would often fire rev for a second and die, if you touched the throttle the saw would die. Vapor lock is likely the problem, but what is actually causing the ongoing issues with these saws I really do not know at this point. When the saw is running, it is a pleasure to use and could very well be the nicest running stock saw I've ever had my hands on.
> 
> ...





Andyshine77 said:


> First off I want to be clear I have absolutely no brand preference whatsoever, and at this time I own 7 Husqvarna saws, more than any other brand. This thread and the fallowing video is not intended to bash this model, Husqvarna, those who sell them, or use them.
> 
> With that being said, my new 562xp will not restart after use in hot humid 90° weather, even when only sitting a minute or two. The primer would not pull fuel, and the saw was obviously not getting enough fuel from the carb. The saw would often fire rev for a second and die, if you touched the throttle the saw would die. Vapor lock is likely the problem, but what is actually causing the ongoing issues with these saws I really do not know at this point. When the saw is running, it is a pleasure to use and could very well be the nicest running stock saw I've ever had my hands on.
> 
> ...



What year model is your 562? As Mr. Snelling mentioned I would also like to hear from SPIKE60. On the YT channel alfleetcommand Walt has several videos on the early 562 and has a comparison video of improvements made as production progresses.


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## Junkwrencher (Apr 5, 2020)

Junkwrencher said:


> What year model is your 562? As Mr. Snelling mentioned I would also like to hear from SPIKE60. On the YT channel alfleetcommand Walt has several videos on the early 562 and has a comparison video of improvements made as production progresses.


I did a little more reading and found the answers I was looking for.


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## woodfarmer (Jul 28, 2020)

Is this hole in the plastic supposed to be there. Is this how the air gets to the filter?


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## SCHallenger (Jul 28, 2020)

woodfarmer said:


> Is this hole in the plastic supposed to be there. Is this how the air gets to the filter?View attachment 845319



That "hole" was originally plugged by a piece of rubber which had to be removed. The "hole" was opened to allow heat from the engine into the carburetor area during cold weather operation (below 30deg. F). The plug should be put back into place for normal operation or there will be problems!


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## woodfarmer (Jul 28, 2020)

I figured as much Thanks


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