# Loppers?



## xdmp22 (Aug 11, 2011)

I am in the market for a good set of loppers

I have been looking @ the fiskars line....

Too many options....

What works best? I want something that stays sharp, cuts easy and hopefully under 50 bucks...but will consider anything

Thanks in advance


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## xdmp22 (Aug 11, 2011)

Nobody?


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## Philbert (Aug 11, 2011)

Bypass cutters for green wood - trees and bushes you want to prune and keep.

Anvil cutters for dead wood and removals where you don't care.

I bought a pair of Gilmore anvil lopers with steel handles that lasted me a long time, then had a part break. When I contacted them for a replacement part, they sent me a whole new pair under a lifetime guarantee, so I bought a pair of by-pass lopers to match, out of appreciation. But I am not sure that they are the same quality as the old ones.

Part of the problem is that the design seems to change periodically with many brands, like they are being made by someone else. I have seen some nice looking ones with ash handles at Ace hardware (their brand) on sale a few times. $30 - $40. It is probably where I would look. Otherwise, Corona, Fiskars, Sears, might be options.

Philbert


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## xdmp22 (Aug 11, 2011)

Thanks, I am standing here @ lowes.....they have lots of corona and a 1 fiskar....(the 28" bypass)

I kinda like the idea of the fiskar with gear teeth (which is not @ lowes)

Are the corona's any good?


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## Philbert (Aug 11, 2011)

xdmp22 said:


> Are the corona's any good?


 
Like a lot of brands - some are, some are not. Yu should be able to tell by the way they look whether they will hold up for your use.

Check out Ace and Sears if you are willing to shop around a little.

Philbert


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## xdmp22 (Aug 11, 2011)

Again, thanks, I am looking @ the corona classic cut super duty...lowes p/n 82581...they look beefy...a little pricey, but big jaws...they claim 3" cut...the fiskars are 1 5/8

I will assume the max cut is like anything else....if it say 3, it will do 2 to 2 1/2.....3 once in a blue moon if you really need it to.

I would like to consistantly cut 2" and smaller with no issues

Sears is across the street, I will head over there for comparison sake

Then maybe back to lowes

Just don't want to spend 30-50 for one time use crap....harbor freight is a mile away if I want one time use crap


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## xdmp22 (Aug 11, 2011)

Ok, sears has a pair that looks just like the corona @ lowes only irs 3 dollars cheaper and says, "forever guarentee"

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm I may just go with this one

Hmmmmmmmmmm oh look chainsaws...........


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## xdmp22 (Aug 11, 2011)

Leaving now with new loppers....and some shiny new rubber "T" handle torx wrenches

This is why I don't like shopping on payday....too much other cool stuff to blow my money on


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## xdmp22 (Aug 11, 2011)

Thanks again Philbert.....rep bombs incoming when I get home


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## xdmp22 (Aug 11, 2011)

crap....rep nazi wont let me............


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## xdmp22 (Aug 11, 2011)

Oh and pics or it didn't happen.....


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## dingeryote (Aug 11, 2011)

Corona makes good stuff.

The problem is that they also market chineese junk with thier name on it to homeowners through the Box stores.

If it has the lifetime warranty, it's good. If not, run away.

Corona will back up thier stuff, except for handles. Somewhere around here is a set of Corona Loppers that has been part warranty replaced to the point of new every 3-4 years, since I was a kid.

Keep an eyeball on the screws, and keep them tight.
Fiberglass filler and fiberglass wrapping the inletting is the ticket if you are obcessive.

If ya got the Aluminum handled jobs, go easy. They WILL bull through 4" stuff, but once the handles start to bend, they keep going. I have one pair that need handles again, and I'm thinking of going back to wood. Just too easy to bend the things, and too costly to replace every other year.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## beastmaster (Aug 13, 2011)

I have several sets of coronas laying around with broken wooden handles. They make steel handle ones which might be good. I worked a a place where the owner purchased 150.00 loppers(don't remember the brand) they were so heavy no one used them. I have a pair of fiskars i bought at home Depoe for 25.00 and been using them for 2 years now, mostly up in the trees. I also have this little sharpener, it has a piece of carbide on the end and you scrape the edge on, works great.


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## forestryworks (Aug 13, 2011)

Fiskars and Corona make good stuff.

Like Philbert said, get a bypass and anvil style lopper.


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## Bigsnowdog (Oct 13, 2011)

I don't understand the bypass vs anvil, the suggestion that anvil is for dead stuff and bypass is for live stuff. 

I know nothing but what I have learned in 33 years of reforestation. Anvil good, bypass bad. I don't really care for how the bypass loppers work. The anvil type seems to work much better.

So, educate me. I don't think I buy the anvil pinches theory. I don't see it happening.


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## forestryworks (Oct 13, 2011)

Bigsnowdog said:


> I don't understand the bypass vs anvil, the suggestion that anvil is for dead stuff and bypass is for live stuff.
> 
> I know nothing but what I have learned in 33 years of reforestation. Anvil good, bypass bad. I don't really care for how the bypass loppers work. The anvil type seems to work much better.
> 
> So, educate me. I don't think I buy the anvil pinches theory. I don't see it happening.


 
Buy both and see. Anvil always pinches and tears some bark (especially on thin barked trees), no matter how careful you are.


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## BCbound (Oct 13, 2011)

Bypass pruners will give you a more precise, clean cut. Better for compartmentilize(CODIT). Anvil is more of a crushing cut and not as accurate but I find more powerful which is nice for deadwood. Please correct me if I'm wrong in my thinking.


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## Bigsnowdog (Oct 13, 2011)

Not saying I am right here, just an observation. Going through doing work I encounter both live and dead wood. I own both and have owned both, and it seems the bypass get left hanging from a branch somewhere because the anvil works better.


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## Philbert (Oct 13, 2011)

Bigsnowdog said:


> I don't understand the bypass vs anvil, the suggestion that anvil is for dead stuff and bypass is for live stuff. . . . I don't think I buy the anvil pinches theory.


 
Anvil will cut everything - live or dead, but uses more of a crushing action, compressing live fibers between the wedge and the anvil. 

Bypass uses more of a shearing action, so it cuts cleaner (if the blades are sharp) on live wood, but has a harder time on dead fibers.

If you don't care (e.g. trail clearing) - the anvil pruners will cut everything. If you are pruning ornamentals, you probably also want a pair of bypass loppers.

My experience and opinion.

Philbert


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## Bigsnowdog (Oct 13, 2011)

Philbert said:


> Anvil will cut everything - live or dead, but uses more of a crushing action, compressing live fibers between the wedge and the anvil.
> 
> Bypass uses more of a shearing action, so it cuts cleaner (if the blades are sharp) on live wood, but has a harder time on dead fibers.
> 
> ...



What are you meaning by ornamentals in this case? I am pruning hardwoods such as oaks, walnut, hickory, maple.


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## dingeryote (Oct 13, 2011)

Bigsnowdog said:


> What are you meaning by ornamentals in this case? I am pruning hardwoods such as oaks, walnut, hickory, maple.


 
If you find the anvil loppers working better than good bypass loppers, check the angle on the bypass lopper blade, and the angle of the shearing corner on the bypass anvil. Both need to be re-ground now and then, and the anvil corner is often overlooked but very important to a clean cut. Sand and grit will wreak havoc on them if they are used a lot, and it's normal for us to re-grind 2-3 times a season when they start getting balky at the last bit of the cut. 

There is a LOT less damage done to the remaining stub with sharp bypass pruners, and a significantly lower succeptibility to pathogens.
MSU did a study half a dozen years ago and the difference was impressive. 

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## Philbert (Oct 13, 2011)

Bigsnowdog said:


> What are you meaning by ornamentals in this case?


 
You are right - I should have used that term more carefully.

What I meant is that if you are just cutting through brush and not overly concerned about the appearance of the remaining tree, bush, shrub, etc., the anvil pruners are fine. If you are doing more fine work, where the aesthetics of the remaining plant are very important, where the cut off portions are are very visible, where they are higher value plants or softer stems/branches, etc., you should consider a sharp bypass pruner.

Good point by dingeryote - all cutting tools require some maintenance to keep them operating optimally.

Philbert


(whew ! Wikipedia agrees with me):
_"Ornamental plants are plants that are grown for decorative purposes in gardens and landscape design projects, as house plants, for cut flowers and specimen display. The cultivation of these forms a major branch of horticulture."_


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## Bigsnowdog (Oct 13, 2011)

How are people sharpening these tools? ....including, how is the _corner_ sharpened on the anvil tool?


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## dingeryote (Oct 13, 2011)

Bigsnowdog said:


> How are people sharpening these tools? ....including, how is the _corner_ sharpened on the anvil tool?


 
On bypass pruners the blade angle is re-set on a grinder with a fixture, then the backside is surface ground.
The Anvil side is surface ground on the backside to get the corner back. 

The little carbide scrapers work to get an edge back but after 3-4 times the angle gets boogered, and there's not a whole lot that can be done without a surface grinder on the anvil side.

Generally the Orchard supply shops and hardwares in Ag communitys that cater to us orchard guys, will have the set up to maintain what they sell, and warranty the Coronas, and can handle the other stuff as well. Check with the local hardware that does tool sharpening and they should be savvy, if not find a sharp shop. 

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## MtnHermit (Jul 14, 2012)

*Anvil or Bypass, Which is easier?*



Philbert said:


> Anvil will cut everything - live or dead, but uses more of a crushing action, compressing live fibers between the wedge and the anvil.
> 
> Bypass uses more of a shearing action, so it cuts cleaner (if the blades are sharp) on live wood, but has a harder time on dead fibers.
> 
> If you don't care (e.g. trail clearing) - the anvil pruners will cut everything. If you are pruning ornamentals, you probably also want a pair of bypass loppers.


Read the entire thread and you made many good points.

I want a lopper for trail clearing, mostly willow but some spruce branches. Based on your prior comments, anvil because I don't care about the finished look or damaging the willow, if I could kill the plant (willow) so much the better. You can't kill willow in wet soils, only slow 'em down.

Based on your experience, which require the least cutting effort? I will encounter 100's of 1-2" willows and as you know it can be hard work.

Here's a Corona that's available both bypass and anvil, note the Extendable Handles, for putting in a day pack. Your thoughts?

Thanks


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## Philbert (Jul 14, 2012)

MtnHermit said:


> Here's a Corona that's available both bypass and anvil, note the Extendable Handles, for putting in a day pack. Your thoughts?



Those are good for your purpose, and I would be happy to buy and use them. Decent quality and the compound action multiplies the cutting force applied. 

The telescoping handles sometimes slip, and will be slightly heavier in your pack, so I would choose the standard handles, all things equal. They are sometimes sold under the Ace Hardware or Sears brand names, so you can also check those places for sales.

Philbert


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## MtnHermit (Jul 21, 2012)

Philbert said:


> Those are good for your purpose, and I would be happy to buy and use them. Decent quality and the compound action multiplies the cutting force applied.
> 
> The telescoping handles sometimes slip, and will be slightly heavier in your pack, so I would choose the standard handles, all things equal. They are sometimes sold under the Ace Hardware or Sears brand names, so you can also check those places for sales.
> 
> Philbert


Your comments prove prophetic, I was traveling about 100-mi from home and stopped briefly at a small town Ace Hardware, figured I'd see what they had prior to another 70-mi to a larger town with a HD and WM. Turns out the Ace selection was twice that of HD and WM combined. Many Corona, Fiskars, and Ace (Corona) brand loppers in many sizes and prices.

I ended up ordering these Corona AL 4110 compound loppers. Decidedly low end, no shock stop, plain handle, stamped (not forged) hook and cutter. But should be light with the aluminum handles. I only expect to use them a few times a year so no reason to go high dollar. Put the money saved into a 14" folding saw for the bigger deadfall.

The loppers won't fit inside a day pack but should lash to the outside like ski poles.

Thanks for the advice.


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## Philbert (Jul 21, 2012)

MtnHermit said:


> Your comments prove prophetic,.



I hear that it is good luck to rep the prophets (?)

(Glad you found something that you think will work for you.)

Philbert


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## MtnHermit (Aug 7, 2012)

My third outing with the Corona compound lopper, it has worked very well. Will cut tiny shoots as well as 1-1/2" Dia. stems.







I've found that the best way for me to cut the willows is sitting on the ground, that way I can see the stems and I don't have to bend over. You can see nothing but willow to the base of that mountain and the eye candy is much of the reason to make the trip. You can get some scale for the willows in that the lopper is 30" long.



Philbert said:


> I hear that it is good luck to rep the prophets (?)


Did that, but with almost 3000 credits, don't know why you'd want more? Not like you can eat them.


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## Philbert (Aug 7, 2012)

MtnHermit said:


> Did that, but with almost 3000 credits, don't know why you'd want more? Not like you can eat them.


'Rep' and 'credits' are different systems. Neither is worth anything more than bragging rights.

Those willows, however, have value to the right persons. During a period of different obsessions, I learned a lot about baidarkas (Aleutian style sea kayaks). Willow is used for the ribs. having that much willow, and of that size, would give a kayak builder a lot of choice to be fussy.

Philbert


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## MtnHermit (Aug 12, 2012)

Another section from the same day. This ~100-feet took 1:40 H:M according to the photo time stamps.






It's an old road with the trail track in the center of the wheel grooves. Because the willows were so high, I placed all the cuttings in the lower wheel groove.


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