# 372XP free bee



## TRI955 (Jun 13, 2010)

First I would like to thank rburg again for the saw, what a great guy!! He brought this saw to Wiggs GTG yesterday looking to get rid of it, I know, I still wonder why. He had it for a few years and said it was tired when he got it.


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## TRI955 (Jun 13, 2010)




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## TRI955 (Jun 13, 2010)

The saw had no compression...






so I did a pressure test, and once I tightened up the intake clamp all seems to be good...






So I got her cleaned up...


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## TRI955 (Jun 13, 2010)

and pulled her down to see how bad the piston and cylinder was....











Not too bad, I think the cylinder will clean up just fine. Gonna order up a Meteor piston, fuel and impulse lines and I think I'll replace the intake boot and clamp just for peace of mind. I think I might also play on the lathe with this one....

I will keep on this thread until finished, just have to wait for parts now.


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## madman39 (Jun 13, 2010)

Good project saw! Have fun!


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## 2000ssm6 (Jun 13, 2010)

Great score for a Freebeeee, wrong color for me though.


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## RVALUE (Jun 13, 2010)

Do you still have that pony from the time you fell into the pile of manure?


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## minkota1 (Jun 13, 2010)

Good Score!


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## MadMax5578 (Jun 13, 2010)

Nice pick up!


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## parrisw (Jun 13, 2010)

Sweet. I look forward to see your work on this one.


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## TRI955 (Jun 13, 2010)

Bead blasted the cylinder, sure makes them look pretty...






Cleaned up the bore with muratic acid and then did a light hone, looks good and feels even beter!






All parts are ordered, now the waiting game. I guess I'll go through the carb while I wait....


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## mdavlee (Jun 13, 2010)

That's a great score for free and to be able to make a runner out of it cheap is even better.


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## NC4TN (Jun 13, 2010)

You're havin' way to much fun there! Keep inspiring me for retirement projects. Great post!


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## Steveo_supremo (Jun 13, 2010)

(In my best Master Yoda voice)..........Jealous, I am.


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## parrisw (Jun 13, 2010)

Now's a perfect time to make a mandrel for that cylinder, I just did one not too long ago for the 371 I just built.


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## blsnelling (Jun 13, 2010)

Way to go Mike! Lookin' good!


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## stihl sawing (Jun 13, 2010)

Great score, Should be a good cutting saw when you're finished. lookin good.


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## little possum (Jun 13, 2010)

Serioulsy?  Lucky! 

Just a little  but congratulations Mike.


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## andrethegiant70 (Jun 13, 2010)

Tired!? Man, you should see the stuff I start with! That is one heck of a score. Bearings, seals, a piston and some fuel work, that thing will rock. Maybe cost you a hundred bucks.


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## TRI955 (Jun 13, 2010)

andrethegiant70 said:


> Tired!? Man, you should see the stuff I start with! That is one heck of a score. Bearings, seals, a piston and some fuel work, that thing will rock. Maybe cost you a hundred bucks.



It really seems to be in pretty good condition. I've been working on the lower transfers tonight, can't do much else without the piston....


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## blsnelling (Jun 14, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> It really seems to be in pretty good condition. I've been working on the lower transfers tonight, can't do much else without the piston....



You should be able to widen the intake and exhaust to a full 70% of bore. You can do what you wish with the upper transfers as well. The skirts are wide and the ring locating pins towards the middle of the intake. Gasket match the cylinder base. There's room for a LOT of improvement there.


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## TRI955 (Jun 14, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Gasket match the cylinder base. There's room for a LOT of improvement there.



That's exactly what I did, gasket matched the base and put a knife edge on the wall in between the transfer ports.












I also bead blasted the muffler on did a muffler mod, I just opened up the existing hole, this way it will still look factory when done.






I'll be using some hi-temp paint on it tonight.


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## blsnelling (Jun 14, 2010)

You're on a roll Make sure and check the big end crank bearing good.


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## TRI955 (Jun 14, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> You're on a roll Make sure and check the big end crank bearing good.



Already did, they're tight.


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## blsnelling (Jun 14, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> Already did, they're tight.



I'm talking about the rod bearing. It's a not too uncommon failure. Just something to check. 

Have you started porting the intake and exhaust yet? Gonna pretty this one up, or just get it running for now? See, none of the rest of us got a free modern saw like that. So we have to live vicariously through you


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## TRI955 (Jun 14, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I'm talking about the rod bearing. It's a not too uncommon failure. Just something to check.
> 
> Have you started porting the intake and exhaust yet? Gonna pretty this one up, or just get it running for now? See, none of the rest of us got a free modern saw like that. So we have to live vicariously through you



Yes, the top bearing is tight too.

I have not messed with the exhaust or intake yet. Saw is just getting cleaned up, not pretty.


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## blsnelling (Jun 14, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> Yes, the top bearing is tight too.
> 
> I have not messed with the exhaust or intake yet. Saw is just getting cleaned up, not pretty.



Should have a good runner then for <$75. Don't discount that 72cc topend either. A good one will run right with my 372BB.


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## wigglesworth (Jun 14, 2010)

Have I mentioned that you suck mike.....


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## TRI955 (Jun 14, 2010)

I'm suprised Wiggs hasn't commented on the saw that could have been his!!!!:biggrinbounce2:


edit: There's my buddy!!!


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## wigglesworth (Jun 14, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> I'm suprised Wiggs hasn't commented on the saw that could have been his!!!!:biggrinbounce2:
> 
> 
> edit: There's my buddy!!!



In all seriousness, congrats on the saw, and looking forward to the finished product. you still seriously suck.....seriously...


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## little possum (Jun 14, 2010)

wigglesworth said:


> Have I mentioned that you suck mike.....



We need to set up a intervention for that poor fellow. He seems to have forgotten that the Holy Grail of saws are cream color and orange. 

More of a brand traitor than Mike? 
:biggrinbounce2:


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## TRI955 (Jun 14, 2010)

little possum said:


> We need to set up a intervention for that poor fellow. He seems to have forgotten that the Holy Grail of saws are cream color and orange.
> 
> More of a brand traitor than Mike?
> :biggrinbounce2:



How would I be a brand traitor?? If your talking about those red saws, I still have quite the collection....just because I don't have it listed in my sig line doesn't mean that I don't still have them!

I think Wiggs and I have just seen the light...


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## little possum (Jun 14, 2010)

Just messin with ya Mike. I know its easy to run outta room in the sig.

Every saw manufacturer has good saws, and some bad saws.

I love the "light" though


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## blsnelling (Jun 14, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> How would I be a brand traitor?? If your talking about those red saws, I still have quite the collection....just because I don't have it listed in my sig line doesn't mean that I don't still have them!
> 
> I think Wiggs and I have just seen the light...



Yeah. He really wants a 346/2153, but just won't admit it:hmm3grin2orange:


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## TRI955 (Jun 14, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Yeah. He really wants a 346/2153, but just won't admit it:hmm3grin2orange:



Wiggs and his boys at the mill!!!!


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## blsnelling (Jun 14, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> Wiggs and his boys at the mill!!!!



Yeah, those boys know a good saw when they run one:hmm3grin2orange:


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## wigglesworth (Jun 14, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Yeah, those boys know a good saw when they run one:hmm3grin2orange:



Yep....that's why they want an 044/046 hybrid for their faller.


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## TRI955 (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok back on subject...



TRI955 said:


> That's exactly what I did, gasket matched the base and put a knife edge on the wall in between the transfer ports.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Should I remove material at the bottom of the transfers (remove some of the cylinder wall) so it flows better??


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## parrisw (Jun 14, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> Ok back on subject...
> 
> 
> 
> Should I remove material at the bottom of the transfers (remove some of the cylinder wall) so it flows better??



Yes. 

Also your transfer divider shouldn't have a sharp edge. Here is a pic of a 371 I just did for reference.


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## blsnelling (Jun 14, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> Should I remove material at the bottom of the transfers (remove some of the cylinder wall) so it flows better??



I make it even with the base of the cylinder. When I gasket/case match, I also remove some of the cylinder that sticks down into the case. Doing this will open up the sides of the piston. This is what led me to start windowing the piston.


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## Arrowhead (Jun 14, 2010)

Free 372?? :jawdrop: Yep... you officially suck. Rebuild is lookin good.


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## TRI955 (Jun 14, 2010)

parrisw said:


> Yes.
> 
> Also your transfer divider shouldn't have a sharp edge. Here is a pic of a 371 I just did for reference.



Thank you for the picture! Now that I think about it, I understand why the divider shouldn't have a sharp edge....the air doesn't flow that way.


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## TRI955 (Jun 14, 2010)

Finished muffler with the factory port opened up...











I know that this will possibly be a bottle neck in the whole saw, we will see how it turns out though.

Yes, I have printed off a degree wheel to have a crack at this porting thing the right way....


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## AUSSIE1 (Jun 15, 2010)

Great job on the muffler Mike.
This is all that needs to be done for a basic woods port.
That brow can come up a bit more.


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## TRI955 (Jun 15, 2010)

*Nightly update*

I think I have the lower transfers and the cylinder skirt done, please let me know if I have missed something...
















A couple questions:

Is there anyway to keep the carbide bits from clogging up with aluminum??

Would it be safe to start intake and exhaust porting with the old piston for reference? I have a Meteor on it's way.


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## AUSSIE1 (Jun 15, 2010)

If you spray the work with WD40/CRC occasionally, it will keep the burs clog free. If your bur is clogged, just spray the job and continue cutting and eventually it will clear.

On the chain side, the inside of the transfer is slightly restricted compared to the flywheel side. Match this to the opposite side.

If you draw a line from the edge of one transfer to the other side, I remove all material including offending cyl, Your job is looking great.


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## wigglesworth (Jun 15, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> A couple questions:
> 
> Is there anyway to keep the carbide bits from clogging up with aluminum??



Slow the bit down some, and the clogging will stop.


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## AUSSIE1 (Jun 15, 2010)

In this pic the cyl at the trans is taken up 5mm above the base.


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## parrisw (Jun 15, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> I think I have the lower transfers and the cylinder skirt done, please let me know if I have missed something...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



You can get burrs made for alu that don't clog, I have a couple and they were just called alumacut bits? Don't know why, but they never clog, and I don't have to lube anything while grinding. 

Nice work so fay BTW.


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## TRI955 (Jun 15, 2010)

Thanks guys! I worked on the transfers more (with lube) and they look much better. The chain side was much more restricted, so I tried to make them match the other side.

So what are your thoughts on porting with the old piston? Should I wait for the new one??


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## parrisw (Jun 15, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> Thanks guys! I worked on the transfers more (with lube) and they look much better. The chain side was much more restricted, so I tried to make them match the other side.
> 
> So what are your thoughts on porting with the old piston? Should I wait for the new one??



I don't know? I would assume you will be fine, since the piston doesn't really have skirts and you can go fairly wide. But my first feeling is that you should wait till you have the piston that you will be running, just in case! I know its hard to wait, I feel the same way when doing this stuff.


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## wigglesworth (Jun 15, 2010)

Yes, wait for the piston. The 044 Meteor piston I have has wider skirts than OEM.


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## TRI955 (Jun 16, 2010)

Piston just showed up, I guess I'll putting some holes in it tonight.


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## TRI955 (Jun 16, 2010)

I weighed the piston before....





and after doing the windows...





Just a little weight trimmed off. 

The windows turned out pretty good...





except for one little mishap with the Dremel...





I wasn't very happy but it doesn't look like it will hurt anything. It is in the exhaust port and it's smooth, I'll call it a speed dent.


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## wigglesworth (Jun 16, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> except for one little mishap with the Dremel...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



ROFL...Speed dent. LOL

Looking good. Do you charge extra for the speed dents?


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## TRI955 (Jun 16, 2010)

I checked the squish without a base gasket, it's .029" 





I will mill a .020" pop-up on the piston and then machine .030" off the base of the cylinder. That should put me around .020" squish when done without a base gasket. Does anybody think I should machine a little more so I can use a gasket??


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## TRI955 (Jun 16, 2010)

wigglesworth said:


> ROFL...Speed dent. LOL
> 
> Looking good. Do you charge extra for the speed dents?



Nothing extra, speed dents are free!! I was ok with it for my first time. It would have been a mess if I didn't have a layer of tape on it to protect it!!!


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## wigglesworth (Jun 16, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> Does anybody think I should machine a little more so I can use a gasket??



I usually do. Call me cautious, but I like to use base gaskets.


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## rms61moparman (Jun 16, 2010)

You missed that part right there though!!!
If you forget that your saw will never run right.


Mike


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## TRI955 (Jun 16, 2010)

rms61moparman said:


> You missed that part right there though!!!
> If you forget that your saw will never run right.
> 
> 
> Mike



WTF?? Missed what?


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## rms61moparman (Jun 16, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> WTF?? Missed what?




You clearly missed that part!!!









The part where 


YOU SUCK!

Loud and long!


Congratulations on great reaction time!!!:yourock:


The other Darryl

Mike


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## TRI955 (Jun 16, 2010)

Don't be sore Darrel, just because Brad, Wiggs and you were all sleeping when the deal went down!! LOL!


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## rms61moparman (Jun 16, 2010)

Well,

To be honest with you, I think it went to the right guy!!!


Brad, Jeremy and I already have saws that will outrun a Poulan!!!:greenchainsaw:


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## parrisw (Jun 16, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> I checked the squish without a base gasket, it's .029"
> 
> 
> I will mill a .020" pop-up on the piston and then machine .030" off the base of the cylinder. That should put me around .020" squish when done without a base gasket. Does anybody think I should machine a little more so I can use a gasket??



YES! I always use a gasket. Machine the thickness of the gasket off too! I find it easier then dealing with a bunch of sealant, if you ever have to take it apart.


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## MuleyJ (Jun 16, 2010)

*Well.........*

If I did not have my head up my :censored: tonight, I would have posted this here the first time.



MuleyJ said:


> I see you have been bumping some of the 372 porting threads. Here are some of the ones I used.
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=124069
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=124358
> ...


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## wigglesworth (Jun 16, 2010)

rms61moparman said:


> well,
> 
> to be honest with you, i think it went to the right guy!!!
> 
> ...



rofl!!!!


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## blsnelling (Jun 16, 2010)

rms61moparman said:


> Brad, Jeremy and I already have saws that will outrun a Poulan!!!:greenchainsaw:



Now THAT was hillariously cruel. Good one Mike:yourock:

I machine for a gasket IF I can maintain at least .250" base thickness.


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## TRI955 (Jun 18, 2010)

Here's some pictures of last night's activites...

Spinning the piston






Making the mandrel to machine the base of the cylinder, should have used something closer to the finish size to start with





Turning the base...





I ended up doing a .020" pop-up on the piston and removed .040" from the base of the cylinder. I will be able to use my regular .010" gasket material for the base gasket.


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## AUSSIE1 (Jun 18, 2010)

Beaut work.


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## blsnelling (Jun 18, 2010)

Very nice Mike. I'm anxious to see how it turns out for you.


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## parrisw (Jun 18, 2010)

Real nice. That's about how much I machined off the 371 I just did.


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## FATGUY (Jun 18, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> Here's some pictures of last night's activites...
> 
> Spinning the piston
> Making the mandrel to machine the base of the cylinder, should have used something closer to the finish size to start with
> ...



Nice work Mike!!


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## TRI955 (Jun 18, 2010)

Nightly update...

The finished products after the lathe work, not too bad for a parts guy...






So I go to check squish, cut my gasket, install piston (less ring), apply solder (.030")....






and _try_ to install cylinder. I had to chamfer the cylinder skirt that extends in to the case. The first time I tried it, the piston was sticking at the bottom of the bore, I knew right away what was happening.






Checked squish, ended up .026", little more than I wanted, but I can always adjust that later if needed with a thinner gasket.

Next up was checking where I was at with the port timing. I printed off a timing wheel and stuck it to a cd, stole that idea from somebody else here.






My numbers right now are:

Exhaust 100
Transfers 124
Intake 80

Not too far from where I want to be. I'm gonna raise the exhaust and the transfers a bit, intake is good where it's at.


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## blsnelling (Jun 18, 2010)

I wouldn't touch the exhaust timing. You might raise the transfers up to 120°, but no more.


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## AUSSIE1 (Jun 18, 2010)

Just recheck your no's again Mike. Sound high at the Ex for a 372. Most of us port to 160°. Yours is reading that after machining. Are you just using your eye to check when opening?


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## Arrowhead (Jun 18, 2010)

Looks good Mike!


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## parrisw (Jun 19, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I wouldn't touch the exhaust timing. You might raise the transfers up to 120°, but no more.





AUSSIE1 said:


> Just recheck your no's again Mike. Sound high at the Ex for a 372. Most of us port to 160°. Yours is reading that after machining. Are you just using your eye to check when opening?



Ya I agree with these guys. Al has got these down pat, he helped me out allot with the numbers game. 

Got to make sure to cut the bottom of the cylinder where it goes into the case after machining the base, I made that mistake the first time and wondered WTF, I'd take some more off the base to get it at .020. 

My saw ended up with 120° transfers, and 98.5° on ex and intake closes at 75° ATDC 21.5° blowdown. And I'm real happy with the way it runs. Just take your time and get it right, you'll be happier in the end.


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## blsnelling (Jun 19, 2010)

Nik and I had the same thing happen with my 372. The piston bound at the bottom of the stroke. We now trim the cylinder base the same amount as the flange.


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## TRI955 (Jun 19, 2010)

AUSSIE1 said:


> Are you just using your eye to check when opening?



Yes, I'm just going by eye. Is there a better way?


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## rburg (Jun 19, 2010)

I am enjoying watching your rebuild. I hope to get a chance to run it when your done. I hope your daughter has a happy birthday today.


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## TRI955 (Jun 19, 2010)

rburg said:


> I am enjoying watching your rebuild. I hope to get a chance to run it when your done. I hope your daughter has a happy birthday today.



Thanks for everything, I hope you do get to run it. That saw WAS tired, ring end gap was almost 3/16":jawdrop: 

I guess I'm going to do a thinner gasket and remeasure the port timing again. I found a very good thread on port timing and measuring duration...
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=113678&highlight=printable+degree+wheel
Thanks for a great post Troutfisher!!


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## parrisw (Jun 19, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> Yes, I'm just going by eye. Is there a better way?



I shine a light through the plug hole, you can just see the crack of light through the ex port, also easier to see the transfers too.


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## TRI955 (Jun 19, 2010)

parrisw said:


> I shine a light through the plug hole, you can just see the crack of light through the ex port, also easier to see the transfers too.



This is how I did it....


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## parrisw (Jun 19, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> This is how I did it....



You should be able to get pretty accurate then, I do it 3 times just to make sure I get the same reading every time.


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## TRI955 (Jun 19, 2010)

I might try measuring the duration and see what I come up with that way.


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## blsnelling (Jun 19, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> My numbers right now are:
> 
> Exhaust 100
> Transfers 124
> Intake 80





TRI955 said:


> I might try measuring the duration and see what I come up with that way.



You calculate the duration from the port timing numbers. Right now you have:

Exhaust 160
Transfers 112
Intake 160

I wouldn't go any higher on the exhaust or lower on the intake. Just widen them to 70% of bore, measured straight across the chord. Raise the transfers no more than 4° and widen them as well.


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## AUSSIE1 (Jun 19, 2010)

Some use a torch, some use feeler gauge, I just spot when it opens by eye, no torch except spotting the trans when opening through the plug hole.
All methods work fine, just that you can come up with different readings from one method to the next.

Yeah widen for now as you can always go back in later if needs be.

It will certainly run well.


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## AUSSIE1 (Jun 19, 2010)

Yeah right, you must have raised and lowered your ports.


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## blsnelling (Jun 19, 2010)

Is it running yet?:greenchainsaw:


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## TRI955 (Jun 19, 2010)

Still stuck at work...daughters B-day today also. I think I'm SOL tonight....


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## TRI955 (Jun 19, 2010)

Squish is now .019"....


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## parrisw (Jun 20, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> Squish is now .019"....



Sweet!!


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## TRI955 (Jun 20, 2010)

Doing transfers SUCKS, and that's all I have to say about that....


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## ronT2 (Jun 20, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> Thanks for everything, I hope you do get to run it. That saw WAS tired, ring end gap was *almost 3/16"* :jawdrop:



Sounds like someone put the wrong size ring in it.

Everything looks great. I wish I had a lathe or at least access to one again not to mention free 372s to play with.


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## rms61moparman (Jun 20, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> Doing transfers SUCKS, and that's all I have to say about that....




They sure don't give a guy much room to work in there do they???
Kinda reminds me of a little Datsun pickup I used to have.........but that's another story.:biggrinbounce2:


Mike


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## TRI955 (Jun 20, 2010)

Porting is complete

Exhaust 98*
Transfers 119*
Intake 80*

Just need to put it back together now.

Anybody wanna guess where the compression will be?? I'm hoping for 180psi +...


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## blsnelling (Jun 20, 2010)

tri955 said:


> anybody wanna guess where the compression will be?? I'm hoping for 180psi +...



165 psi


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## parrisw (Jun 20, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> Porting is complete
> 
> Exhaust 98*
> Transfers 119*
> ...



Those are very similar numbers to mine and its at 160, although, my rings may be worn, I never checked end gap.


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## blsnelling (Jun 20, 2010)

Is it running yet?:greenchainsaw:


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## TRI955 (Jun 20, 2010)

I sure wish I had some wood to cut....


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## blsnelling (Jun 20, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> I sure wish I had some wood to cut....



Go cut that tree in your front yard down


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## wigglesworth (Jun 20, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> I sure wish I had some wood to cut....



I got lots. Come on down...


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## TRI955 (Jun 20, 2010)

165psi. and tuned @ 14,400 rpm, still 4-strokin'


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## blsnelling (Jun 20, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> 165psi



What can I say? I bet it'll turn 15,000-15,100 with a hint of 4-stroking, enough for cookie cutting. 14,400 is probably a good working RPM setting.


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## parrisw (Jun 20, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> What can I say? I bet it'll turn 15,000-15,100 with a hint of 4-stroking, enough for cookie cutting. 14,400 is probably a good working RPM setting.



14k is good for me, I like it to 4stroke! More practical for a work saw. Sure likes to drink the fuel.


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## rms61moparman (Jun 20, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> 165psi. and tuned @ 14,400 rpm, still 4-strokin'




Sounds GREAT darryl!!!

What are the numbers on your 288?
I may have to leave my green junk at home from now on!:censored:



The other brother Darryl


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## little possum (Jun 20, 2010)

Mine next Mike?


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## TRI955 (Jun 20, 2010)

I understand why the guys that port saws charge what they do!! VERY time consuming!! I have no video because I have no wood to cut at the house. Hopefully I can grab some tomorrow to make a video with. I cut some little logs (8") and it seemed rich still at 14,400, didn't really clean out. I think it just needs to have more load on it though.


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## blsnelling (Jun 20, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> I understand why the guys that port saws charge what they do!! VERY time consuming!! I have no video because I have no wood to cut at the house. Hopefully I can grab some tomorrow to make a video with. I cut some little logs (8") and it seemed rich still at 14,400, didn't really clean out. I think it just needs to have more load on it though.



14,400 is prettly low for a ported 372. You probably need to lean it out. You'll know once you get it to work though. Just lean it out until it's all 2-stroke and then bring it back until a little 4-stroke returns. You'll probably find that closer to 15K.


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## TRI955 (Jun 21, 2010)

Finally got me some wood tonight , some Sycamore. Put the 24" bar from my 288 on it with some round ground LGX chain and cut some cookies...

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid51.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff382%2FTRI955%2F372XP%2FDSCN2716.mp4">

Yes, I need to have a look at the kill switch, but I'm pretty happy with the results...


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## rms61moparman (Jun 21, 2010)

Lookin' pretty darn good there Darryl!!!

I think my 4200 just broke out in a cold sweat!


Mike


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## blsnelling (Jun 21, 2010)

It's sounding real good Mike. Any idea what it was tuned to in the vid?


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## wigglesworth (Jun 21, 2010)

You still have my address right? You need to send that thing back where you got it.....


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## TRI955 (Jun 21, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> It's sounding real good Mike. Any idea what it was tuned to in the vid?



No idea on the rpm, does it sound right to you? I did not put the extra exhaust port like so many do and that might be hurting it, but I'm OK with that. I just checked the compression again and it is climbing a bit, looks to be around 172psi. now. It will not get any real run time till this fall, too damn hot out now. I'm gonna try an 8 pin on it tomorrow that I just bought...



wigglesworth said:


> You still have my address right? You need to send that thing back where you got it.....



Does rburg live with you now??? I thought he lived in Tennessee....


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## parrisw (Jun 21, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> No idea on the rpm, does it sound right to you? I did not put the extra exhaust port like so many do and that might be hurting it, but I'm OK with that. I just checked the compression again and it is climbing a bit, looks to be around 172psi. now. It will not get any real run time till this fall, too damn hot out now. I'm gonna try an 8 pin on it tomorrow that I just bought...
> 
> 
> 
> Does rburg live with you now??? I thought he lived in Tennessee....



Looks real nice. My muffler on my 371 has no extra outlet either, just the spark screen is gone, I thought about modding it today though to see what happens.


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## Arrowhead (Jun 21, 2010)

Looks great Mike.... I can't wait to run it at Sean's GTG. :monkey:


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## wigglesworth (Jun 21, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> Does rburg live with you now??? I thought he lived in Tennessee....



He is more than welcome to, as long as he keeps givin saws away.


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## TRI955 (Jun 22, 2010)

I figured I would give the saw a run with an 8 pin rim....

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid51.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff382%2FTRI955%2F372XP%2FDSCN2717.mp4">

I think it does pretty good with the 8 pin, what do you say??


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## FATGUY (Jun 22, 2010)

you da man Mikey!! Looks great with the 8 pin too!!


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## TRI955 (Jun 22, 2010)

The more I look at the 2 videos, I think it is slower with the 8 pin. The rpms are staying up, so what gives???


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## Arrowhead (Jun 22, 2010)

I timed both your vids with a stopwatch.... I'm getting 7.1 seconds consistently on both vids. I timed the first 4 cuts. The first cut you made with the 8 pin I got 7.3.... then all 7.1. :dunno:

I dunno why it's the same.... still a screamin saw!


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## blsnelling (Jun 22, 2010)

The saw still sounds WAY rich to me for timed cuts. Remember how much faster your 288 was after leaning it out at the GTG? I think that's the case here as well. With a warm saw, hold it WOT, lean it out until all 4-stroke is gone. Then quickly back it up until it starts to 4-stroke just a little. No more. You'll get your fastest cut times there. I did richen it up though for hard work.


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## TRI955 (Jun 22, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> The saw still sounds WAY rich to me for timed cuts.



If you listen just before the fourth cut is really cleans out and it doesn't sound like it's 4-stroking anymore...


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## blsnelling (Jun 22, 2010)

It shouldn't take that long to clean out. Have you been through the carb? Did you replace the crank seals? It seems odd to me that it would run that rich for several cuts, and then go much leaner. Does it hold a tune on the H, or does it hunt around? Does it rev to the same RPMs each time you go WOT?


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## TRI955 (Jun 22, 2010)

The saw was cold, took a cut or two to warm up. I did do the carb, did not do crank case seals, holds vaccum and pressure good. It seems to hold a tune fine so far, but everybody here has seen almost all the run time the saw has on it so far...


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## blsnelling (Jun 22, 2010)

Sounds like you're good to go then. I expect to see you lay waste to the Poulans next time your encounter them


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## parrisw (Jun 22, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> It shouldn't take that long to clean out. Have you been through the carb? Did you replace the crank seals? It seems odd to me that it would run that rich for several cuts, and then go much leaner. Does it hold a tune on the H, or does it hunt around? Does it rev to the same RPMs each time you go WOT?



I thought the same thing in that vid, the tune seemed to change a bit? But could just be the vid? Don't know.


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## rms61moparman (Jun 22, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Sounds like you're good to go then. I expect to see you lay waste to the Poulans next time your encounter them






I'm gonna have to get a 4200 and put as much work into it as there is in that one and show youall how the cat ate the butter!!!LOL


Congratulations Mike!

You've got that one looking and running good.


Mike


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## blsnelling (Jun 22, 2010)

parrisw said:


> but could just be the vid? Don't know.



+1.


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## rburg (Jun 23, 2010)

Looks like a job well done. Knowing what it was like when you got it and seeing it perform now, it is amazing the difference. I hope you get much enjoyment out of it.


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## Andyshine77 (Jun 23, 2010)

WTG Mike. From what I can hear it's hardly loosing any rpm's in the cut, that means you did good.


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## Chesterewers (Jan 24, 2011)

TRI955 said:


> Nightly update...
> 
> The finished products after the lathe work, not too bad for a parts guy...
> 
> ...


 
can someone explain how the timing is determined with that wheel on the crank? I don't know going to be porting a saw soon still getting instructions from here for 372xp


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## TRI955 (Feb 4, 2011)

*Bump...*

I have another one of these to play with, just bumping for reference...


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## Freakingstang (Feb 4, 2011)

Nice build man, kinda jealous you have the tools at your disposal to do what you want...I gotta pay people to machine my junk....


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## 7hpjim (Feb 4, 2011)

Ahh, so you have made the decision


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## TRI955 (Feb 4, 2011)

I had made the decision before it was here...


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## MS390 (Feb 5, 2011)

TRI955 said:


> Here's some pictures of last night's activites...
> 
> Spinning the piston


 
great thread!!!!!

Quistion: whats that you have put around the piston??


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## hqv (Feb 5, 2011)

Awesome work done. Great saw.


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## RiverRat2 (Feb 5, 2011)

RVALUE said:


> Do you still have that pony from the time you fell into the pile of manure?


LOLOLOL!!!! Das funny right there!!!!


Wow Really blessed there!!!!!! Nice Score on the Hooskvarna for sure!!!!


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## TRI955 (Feb 5, 2011)

MS390 said:


> great thread!!!!!
> 
> Quistion: whats that you have put around the piston??


 
Its a thick packaging tape to keep from damaging the piston in the jaws of the lathe.


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## JJay03 (Feb 5, 2011)

Wow nice work that saw rocks now!


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## TRI955 (Feb 24, 2011)

*New to me 372*

Didn't want to start a new thread on basically the same saw but I figured I'd hit a few highlights and add to this thread. I traded my 288XP with the 066 piston swap for a low hour full wrap 372XP with a fellow member, I think we both are happy with the deal. Before I had the saw in hand, I had already ordered a new Meteor piston for it...







Marked where I wanted the windows...


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## TRI955 (Feb 24, 2011)

Off to my nephews shop I went. Took .040" off the base of the cylinder and then it was time to do some milling...











I took the cylinder skirt up 1/8th" above the base of the cylinder.


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## TRI955 (Feb 24, 2011)

Turned .025" off the top of the piston to get a small dome and milled the windows in the side of the piston...






worked the transfers, exhaust and intake on the cylinder...






squish is set at .023" with a .010" gasket installed.


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## TRI955 (Feb 24, 2011)

I'm really happy with the results...

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="853" height="510" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/q7bs78OfZ0c" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I have a few tanks through this one now and I switched it over to an 8-pin rim now, gonna try to get a video of it this weekend in some Oak or Locust.


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## wigglesworth (Feb 24, 2011)

Whatcha cuttin there Mikey, Styrofoam?  

















Just jerkin yer chain. Looks good.


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## komatsuvarna (Feb 24, 2011)

Looks strong Mike. Makes me want to do mine!


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## tlandrum (Feb 24, 2011)

komatsuvarna said:


> Looks strong Mike. Makes me want to do mine!


 
i know a guy lol


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## TRI955 (Feb 24, 2011)

wigglesworth said:


> Whatcha cuttin there Mikey, Styrofoam?
> 
> 
> Just jerkin yer chain. Looks good.


 
Cottonwood or Sycamore, I forget. I know the wood looks like oop:, that's why I want to get a video of it in some other wood. Here is the 262XP with the same 20" chain in the same piece of wood, night and day between the two saws...

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="853" height="510" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/I9vVyXFQjMM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


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## 7hpjim (Feb 24, 2011)

*trade*

Yes Im happy!!! That saw REALLY came to life, when you dogged in hard later in the vid bfore noodlin it just kept askin for more , where is it running @ the top?
Great build and thanks for the vid!!:msp_thumbsup:


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## rburg (Feb 24, 2011)

Looks like another build well done, but not as pretty as its red cousin.


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## TRI955 (Feb 24, 2011)

I have no idea on the rpm's, just tuned it by ear. I know it is running a little rich but that is ok with me. Maybe I'll put a tach on it this weekend and see what she is turning. Compression right now is just above 175psi with two tanks of fuel through it.


----------



## blsnelling (Feb 24, 2011)

Awesome job Mike. That's a great recipe you used there. It really does work to raise the cylinder wall and window that piston.


----------



## TRI955 (Feb 24, 2011)

blsnelling said:


> Awesome job Mike. That's a great recipe you used there. It really does work to raise the cylinder wall and window that piston.


 
Thanks Brad, you make me feel like I should be keeping my recipe secret!!! :hmm3grin2orange:


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## blsnelling (Feb 24, 2011)

TRI955 said:


> Thanks Brad, you make me feel like I should be keeping my recipe secret!!! :hmm3grin2orange:


 
I actually sold mine. It was likely the fastest saw in that class I had ever built, but I'm just a 440 kind of guy. I can always build another if I want.


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## 7hpjim (Feb 24, 2011)

blsnelling said:


> Awesome job Mike. That's a great recipe you used there. It really does work to raise the cylinder wall and window that piston.


 
Hey Brad did you see the 090 on craigs list listed in your area, I call and he had it listed earlier for $650, sounded good over the phone, but I resisted cad this time!!


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## 7hpjim (Feb 24, 2011)

TRI955 said:


> I have no idea on the rpm's, just tuned it by ear. I know it is running a little rich but that is ok with me. Maybe I'll put a tach on it this weekend and see what she is turning. Compression right now is just above 175psi with two tanks of fuel through it.


 
You gonna keep it or is it fair game?


----------



## TRI955 (Feb 24, 2011)

7hpjim said:


> You gonna keep it or is it fair game?


 
Hey, you know everything has a price...:msp_biggrin:


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## blsnelling (Feb 24, 2011)

I suspect you'll find that it will turn 15K or a little better.


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## parrisw (Feb 24, 2011)

blsnelling said:


> Awesome job Mike. That's a great recipe you used there. It really does work to raise the cylinder wall and window that piston.


 
Hey, do you guys feel that it helps to raise that part above the base? I've always gone flush with the base.


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## TRI955 (Feb 24, 2011)

I raised this one more than the last and bigger on the windows on the piston, there is a noticeable difference in my opinion.


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## ronT2 (Feb 24, 2011)

Cheater!!!







Really I’m just jealous. I get to do all that with my foredom. I like the windowed piston to.

Nice job, looks like it’s running great!


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## parrisw (Feb 24, 2011)

TRI955 said:


> I raised this one more than the last and bigger on the windows on the piston, there is a noticeable difference in my opinion.


 
Cool, thanks. I just doing a 372 now. Maybe I'll go higher on this one. I just cut windows in it, by hand BTW, you cheater!!! Its the first time I've tried that.


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## RiverRat2 (Feb 24, 2011)

TRI955 said:


> I raised this one more than the last and bigger on the windows on the piston, there is a noticeable difference in my opinion.



Check your PM's


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## blsnelling (Feb 25, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Hey, do you guys feel that it helps to raise that part above the base? I've always gone flush with the base.


 


TRI955 said:


> I raised this one more than the last and bigger on the windows on the piston, there is a noticeable difference in my opinion.


 
I only take mine up to even with the base. LINK


----------



## Andyshine77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Even with the base sounds about right to me, you don't want to lose too much base pressure, if you do the charge will just sit in the transfers IMHO.

BTW Mike the saw is running great, and 175psi is good for a 372.


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## Chesterewers (Feb 25, 2011)

Andyshine77 said:


> Even with the base sounds about right to me, you don't want to lose too much base pressure, if you do the charge will just sit in the transfers IMHO.
> 
> BTW Mike the saw is running great, and 175psi is good for a 372.


 
I am still waiting for my piston to get back from having the skirts ceramic coated for friction reduction, when I do I am going to use a degree wheel to check timing, my concern is I may have opened up the intake on the lower side the timing a little too far, not yet sure, I tried to keep my grinding minimal by eye but should I be concerned about that sort of change? I am thinking if I did take too much out just use jb weld as I read someone did on the exhaust. What do you all advise if it is open a little too far? On the exhaust timing I used a hand file to prevent removing too much material at once and believe it should be okay.


----------



## AUSSIE1 (Feb 25, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Hey, do you guys feel that it helps to raise that part above the base? I've always gone flush with the base.


 
You can go up to 5mm Will.


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## komatsuvarna (Feb 25, 2011)

Subscribing,,, and have a few questions.

Does it do any good to window the piston on a 372xp unless your gonna mill the cylinder skirt at or above the base?

What kinda 90* tools do you guys use to widen the transfers?


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## AUSSIE1 (Feb 25, 2011)

komatsuvarna said:


> Subscribing,,, and have a few questions.
> 
> Does it do any good to window the piston on a 372xp unless your gonna mill the cylinder skirt at or above the base?
> 
> What kinda 90* tools do you guys use to widen the transfers?



Personally I haven't determined whether a windowed piston makes any difference.

Since raising that portion of the cyl a couple of years ago, I've been using the 064 piston which has windows. The reason for this piston being used wasn't for the windows but a means to create a popup and benefit from wider skirts. This in the BB kit of course.

I use a contra angle (90°) for changing the duration etc of the upper transfers.

Widening isn't really the purpose, more like redirecting the flow toward the back of the cyl.


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## komatsuvarna (Feb 25, 2011)

AUSSIE1 said:


> Widening isn't really the purpose, more like redirecting the flow toward the back of the cyl.


 
Thanks Al, Thats what I meant. I havent really got these porting terms down pat yet.


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## AUSSIE1 (Feb 25, 2011)

komatsuvarna said:


> Thanks Al, Thats what I meant. I havent really got these porting terms down pat yet.


 
Yeah sure mate, I thought that's what you meant, but thought I better throw that in just in case.


----------



## blsnelling (Feb 25, 2011)

komatsuvarna said:


> Subscribing,,, and have a few questions.
> 
> Does it do any good to window the piston on a 372xp unless your gonna mill the cylinder skirt at or above the base?
> 
> What kinda 90* tools do you guys use to widen the transfers?


 
I would not window the piston unless raising the cylinder sides. There would be no flow through the windows otherwise.


----------



## komatsuvarna (Feb 25, 2011)

blsnelling said:


> I would not window the piston unless raising the cylinder sides. There would be no flow through the windows otherwise.


 
Kind of what I thought, but just making sure.

One more question, Any reason I cant raise the cylinder sides without milling the cylinder to get the squish tighter? I checked my 372 once, but cant remember what the squish was,,,,but seems like it was close to .037/.040,,, somewhere in that area. I dont have anyway to mill the cylinder base and was just gonna remove the base gasket as long as the squish wasnt too tight, which I dont think it will be.


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## blsnelling (Feb 25, 2011)

You'll be almost perfect with removing the gasket. Go for it.


----------



## parrisw (Feb 25, 2011)

AUSSIE1 said:


> You can go up to 5mm Will.


 
Thanks AL! I may just do that.


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## Chesterewers (Feb 25, 2011)

AUSSIE1 said:


> Yeah sure mate, I thought that's what you meant, but thought I better throw that in just in case.


 
hello on a 372 timing for the intake floor I took it down .60-.65 open more on timing, on the exhaust side I raised it towards the top close to .60 does that sound like it will work? I have widened intake and exhaust a little also and can go a little bit more on each. Let me know thanks.


----------



## parrisw (Feb 25, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> hello on a 372 timing for the intake floor I took it down .60-.65 open more on timing, on the exhaust side I raised it towards the top close to .60 does that sound like it will work? I have widened intake and exhaust a little also and can go a little bit more on each. Let me know thanks.


 
How did you come up with those numbers? You really need a starting and finishing point, check with accuracy with a degree wheel.


----------



## Chesterewers (Feb 25, 2011)

parrisw said:


> How did you come up with those numbers? You really need a starting and finishing point, check with accuracy with a degree wheel.


 
I have a micrometer and 2 cylinders to measure off from. the one I ported and the one that is stock. I havn't put it on the saw yet to put a degree wheel on it.


----------



## parrisw (Feb 25, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> I have a micrometer and 2 cylinders to measure off from. the one I ported and the one that is stock. I havn't put it on the saw yet to put a degree wheel on it.


 
Sorry, I'm not really getting what your doing? Measuring a cylinder that has already been ported? Then transferring that to a cylinder to be ported? How are you getting your measurements?


----------



## Chesterewers (Feb 25, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Sorry, I'm not really getting what your doing? Measuring a cylinder that has already been ported? Then transferring that to a cylinder to be ported? How are you getting your measurements?


 
no what I am doing is porting a cylinder and to see how much I have changed I measure from the ported cylinder to the stock cylinder. I am trying to check and see if I am in the ballpark on the porting as far as timing goes. If so then I can continue on polish up what I have done and measure with a degree wheel to see how everything looks.


----------



## blsnelling (Feb 26, 2011)

Your intake sounds fine, but I definately wouldn't have raised the exhaust. 372s are already compression challenged.


----------



## Chesterewers (Feb 26, 2011)

blsnelling said:


> Your intake sounds fine, but I definately wouldn't have raised the exhaust. 372s are already compression challenged.


 
Thats good, I will double check my exhaust measurements they may be way less than as I just used a hand file and touched it a little since I am dropping the base gasket, just remeasured got a difference of .41'' on the exhaust side, I read of one person using jb weld on their exaust porting where they messed up and it worked, I hope I don't have to do that but if I must I will. Thanks friend.


----------



## blsnelling (Feb 26, 2011)

I would never use JBWeld to patch inside a cylinder port. That sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.


----------



## Chesterewers (Feb 26, 2011)

blsnelling said:


> I would never use JBWeld to patch inside a cylinder port. That sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.


 
probably would be, think it should be fine to leave it? I also didn't consider that on the one I am measuring it has carbon the the exhaust side, my change may be less if I clean that up and then measure.


----------



## blsnelling (Feb 26, 2011)

I would just put it together and see where you are.


----------



## parrisw (Feb 26, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> no what I am doing is porting a cylinder and to see how much I have changed I measure from the ported cylinder to the stock cylinder. I am trying to check and see if I am in the ballpark on the porting as far as timing goes. If so then I can continue on polish up what I have done and measure with a degree wheel to see how everything looks.


 
OK, I see, I wouldn't do it that way, now you have no idea how many degrees you have changed it. I only raise the ex on 372 when the jug gets dropped, I normally don't go past 100°atdc 160°duration. But I'm also doing a popup piston to help with compression.

Like Brad said, put the jug on the saw and check your timing.


----------



## Chesterewers (Feb 26, 2011)

blsnelling said:


> I would just put it together and see where you are.


 
thats what I'll do then, I'll try to study up on the degree wheel use try to figure that out and get the update to this site after that. I don't understand the degree wheel fully yet, and I am advancing the flywheel 1/8 then check it over to make sure everything looks right. Thanks


----------



## parrisw (Feb 26, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> thats what I'll do then, I'll try to study up on the degree wheel use try to figure that out and get the update to this site after that. I don't understand the degree wheel fully yet, and I am advancing the flywheel 1/8 then check it over to make sure everything looks right. Thanks


 
You might want to start your own thread on it, and get the advice you need, with using the degree wheel and anything else, without dirtying up this thread.


----------



## AUSSIE1 (Feb 26, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> thats what I'll do then, I'll try to study up on the degree wheel use try to figure that out and get the update to this site after that. I don't understand the degree wheel fully yet, and I am advancing the flywheel 1/8 then check it over to make sure everything looks right. Thanks



Don't bother with advancing your flywheel.

The first thing you need to do after cleaning up the edges of your ports is assemble it and check with a degree wheel before you go any further. To some a degree wheel is very daunting but quite easy to use. If you have gone too far with the inlet you will not be able to remove the base gasket but then that also depends on where your at with the exhaust which will also determine your compression. 

Put it together and check with a wheel to see where your at so you can decide what you need to do.

Most all people who play with port timing use a wheel first up to see where they are at before anything.

Depending on what you are doing with the saw, even 162° can work fine, but then you need to do some upper transfer work to get the most out of it. Open up the lowers as others here have stated here. If needed you may have to run a piston with a higher crown to get back some compression and raise the cyl to suit.


----------



## parrisw (Feb 26, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> thats what I'll do then, I'll try to study up on the degree wheel use try to figure that out and get the update to this site after that. I don't understand the degree wheel fully yet, and I am advancing the flywheel 1/8 then check it over to make sure everything looks right. Thanks


 
I think you might be confusing ignition timing with port timing.


----------



## Chesterewers (Feb 26, 2011)

AUSSIE1 said:


> Don't bother with advancing your flywheel.
> 
> The first thing you need to do after cleaning up the edges of your ports is assemble it and check with a degree wheel before you go any further. To some a degree wheel is very daunting but quite easy to use. If you have gone too far with the inlet you will not be able to remove the base gasket but then that also depends on where your at with the exhaust which will also determine your compression.
> 
> ...


 

That makes perfect sense, thanks, if I need to raise everything with a gasket then what is suggested for a piston? Thanks I'll take some pics before I put it together and degree it out.


----------



## blsnelling (Feb 26, 2011)

Just get it together first and see where you are. No use guessing at this point.


----------



## Chesterewers (Feb 27, 2011)

*timing*

I measured exhaust port timing it was 152 degrees, no base gasket.


----------



## blsnelling (Feb 27, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> I measured exhaust port timing it was 152 degrees, no base gasket.


 
I believe you're stating the duration, rather than the port timing. Exhaust port timing will be close to 100° ATDC. Transfers will be about 120° ATDC. Intake will be close to 70-75° BTDC.


----------



## tlandrum (Feb 27, 2011)

i run right around the 161 degree mark on my 372xp,my 372xpw is at 165 on the exhaust. you could stand to raise the exhaust some but id go no further that 158-160 depending on your saw.


----------



## Chesterewers (Feb 27, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> I measured exhaust port timing it was 152 degrees, no base gasket.


 intake is 159


----------



## tlandrum (Feb 27, 2011)

dont go any lower on the intake for now just get your exhaust up to where you need it


----------



## Chesterewers (Feb 27, 2011)

tlandrum2002 said:


> dont go any lower on the intake for now just get your exhaust up to where you need it


 
I took a little off my exhaust already and scared to touch it, I have a stock and difference on measure between stock and ported is around .60'' as I posted a little earlier, yes I think I will start a separate posting on this subject to keep this thread cleaner. Sorry guys. Someone else here said not to touch exhaust because compression on 372 is already a problem. I am going to leave it until I get further advice on that part, I am sure it may raise a little with the gasket sealent in there, maybe not?


----------



## blsnelling (Feb 27, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> on the exhaust side I raised it towards the top close to .60 does that sound like it will work?


 


Chesterewers said:


> I measured exhaust port timing it was 152 degrees, no base gasket.


 
Something doesn't add up. 152 degrees of exhaust duration is a port timing of 104°. That's lower than I would expect a 372 to be, yet you saw you've already raised it considerably. Are you sure your degree wheel is zeroed? Are you getting the same readings from both sides ot TDC?


----------



## jra1100 (Feb 27, 2011)

Great thread, very interesting. JR


----------



## tlandrum (Feb 27, 2011)

brads right,theres really no way that your only at 152 if youve raised the exhaust any at all. you need to nail down your numbers before you do something that your saw wont like...


----------



## Chesterewers (Feb 27, 2011)

*degrees*



tlandrum2002 said:


> brads right,theres really no way that your only at 152 if youve raised the exhaust any at all. you need to nail down your numbers before you do something that your saw wont like...


 
Okay, here is what I do, I turn the degree wheel counterclock wise until I start to see the piston crack open zero the wheel then rotate counterclockwise until piston reaches the same spot almost closed. just did it again and reads 152,


----------



## blsnelling (Feb 27, 2011)

I recomment you zero your wheel at TDC and find the actual port timing.


----------



## Chesterewers (Feb 27, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> Okay, here is what I do, I turn the degree wheel counterclock wise until I start to see the piston crack open zero the wheel then rotate counterclockwise until piston reaches the same spot almost closed. just did it again and reads 152,


 if I do it the opposite way clockwise I get 164 degrees maybe that is the number we are looking for.


----------



## blsnelling (Feb 27, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> if I do it the opposite way clockwise I get 164 degrees maybe that is the number we are looking for.


 
Should be 168 if the other way is 152.


----------



## Chesterewers (Feb 27, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> if I do it the opposite way clockwise I get 164 degrees maybe that is the number we are looking for.


 
are we looking for the duration closed or open ex? Closed duration is 164 degrees and open is 152 degrees


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## tlandrum (Feb 27, 2011)

your looking for the open duration,but if your not getting the same number both ways your not getting a correct reading. your not at tdc if its not the smae both ways


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## Chesterewers (Feb 27, 2011)

*exceptable?*



blsnelling said:


> Should be 168 if the other way is 152.


 
Okay thats about what it is, sound alright or a little too much?


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## blsnelling (Feb 27, 2011)

Something's still not right. Zero your wheel at TDC and make sure you get the same reading both BTDC and ATDC.


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## Chesterewers (Feb 27, 2011)

*tdc*



blsnelling said:


> Something's still not right. Zero your wheel at TDC and make sure you get the same reading both BTDC and ATDC.


 
I know how to find tdc but after that I don't know where to stop with the degree wheel to take a measurement


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## blsnelling (Feb 27, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> I know how to find tdc but after that I don't know where to stop with the degree wheel to take a measurement


 
Right where the exhaust starts to open.


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## Chesterewers (Feb 27, 2011)

*measure*



blsnelling said:


> Right where the exhaust starts to open.


 
I get 105 what number is acceptable?


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## blsnelling (Feb 27, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> I get 105 what number is acceptable?


 
Did you get the same reading from both sides of TDC?


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## Chesterewers (Feb 27, 2011)

*reading*



blsnelling said:


> Did you get the same reading from both sides of TDC?


 
yes same reading both sides


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## blsnelling (Feb 27, 2011)

I don't know what to say. I've never seen a 372 that low, even after you've raised it. I guess it is what it is.


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## Chesterewers (Feb 27, 2011)

*interesting*



blsnelling said:


> I don't know what to say. I've never seen a 372 that low, even after you've raised it. I guess it is what it is.


 
interesting, well think thats a good thing?


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## blsnelling (Feb 27, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> interesting, well think thats a good thing?


 
Where are you transfers?


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## Chesterewers (Feb 27, 2011)

*hmm*

raised it but no base gasket maybe its a mold imperfection on the casting


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## blsnelling (Feb 27, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> raised it but no base gasket maybe its a mold imperfection on the casting


 
Base gasket only gave you about 1.5°.


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## Chesterewers (Feb 27, 2011)

*maybe piston*



blsnelling said:


> Base gasket only gave you about 1.5°.


 
maybe its the piston I'll have to measure it


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## blsnelling (Feb 27, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> maybe its the piston I'll have to measure it


 
It's not the piston if you've got acceptable squish. If the crown was an extra .050" high, you'd be hitting the head and the saw wouldn't turn over.


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## srcarr52 (Feb 27, 2011)

*371xp?*

I just measured a stock 371xp today, base gasket removed around 0.020" squish.

150 exhaust
102 trans
146 intake

Maybe they changed more then just the model number?


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## Chesterewers (Feb 27, 2011)

372xpw
I think I'll leave as is and put it together to run that way, any idea how to start a thread? I want to post pictures of this project.


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## parrisw (Feb 27, 2011)

Chesterewers said:


> 372xpw
> I think I'll leave as is and put it together to run that way, any idea how to start a thread? I want to post pictures of this project.


 
Go to the main chainsaw forum area, and at the top click new thread.


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## parrisw (Feb 27, 2011)

srcarr52 said:


> I just measured a stock 371xp today, base gasket removed around 0.020" squish.
> 
> 150 exhaust
> 102 trans
> ...


 
Don't think so. As far as I know they are the same.


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## mt.stalker (Feb 23, 2012)

sub


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## half_full (Feb 23, 2012)

mt.stalker said:


> sub


Couldn't you just bookmark the pages you are interested in?


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