# Whats the best hand spliting maul?



## ratso (Aug 16, 2011)

I have a 6 pound black knight with fiberglass handle.I have a 6 pound old hickory that is by far more ergonomic.They are ok i'm in searching for the cadilac of hand mauls.


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## MNGuns (Aug 16, 2011)

Ss x27


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## peterc38 (Aug 16, 2011)

MNGuns said:


> Ss x27




+1, Best one I have used.


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## tjbier (Aug 16, 2011)

I would get either Fiskars Supersplitters. X25/X27
or "Cadillac" would be maybe a Gransfors. But at $170+ the Fiskars are really the best way too go.
I have the Old version (x25) and will be buying the longer x27 this fall:msp_smile:


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## TreePointer (Aug 16, 2011)

:agree2:

Fiskars X27


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## SPDRMNKY (Aug 16, 2011)

fiskars X27 rocks the casbah, cashbar, kazbaa...whatever


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## Oldtimer (Aug 16, 2011)

SPDRMNKY said:


> fiskars X27 rocks the casbah, cashbar, kazbaa...whatever


 
My firewood man splits 2-3 cord a day with a True-Value 8 pound maul. Has a ridge that seems to reduce friction a lot. Look close at the picture, you'll see the ridge.






Anyone who pays $170 for a maul needs to have their head examined.


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## SPDRMNKY (Aug 16, 2011)

Oldtimer said:


> My firewood man splits 2-3 cord a day with a True-Value 8 pound maul. Has a ridge that seems to reduce friction a lot. Look close at the picture, you'll see the ridge.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
I have that exact maul, and find that I'm more productive with the fiskars...I do like wood handles though! Luckily I was able to swallow the 50-some-bucks for the fiskars this spring...if it outlasts 3 wooden handles (about 10 years) it'll be a weiner!


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## ponyexpress976 (Aug 16, 2011)

:agree2:

+7
ss27

Don't get me wrong...I loved my 25. But the extra length of the 27 means that much more head speed. Now if only Fiskars would put the same head of the 25 on a 27 handle...that would be the ultimate!


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## zogger (Aug 16, 2011)

*whoa*



Oldtimer said:


> My firewood man splits 2-3 cord a day with a True-Value 8 pound maul. Has a ridge that seems to reduce friction a lot. Look close at the picture, you'll see the ridge.
> 
> Anyone who pays $170 for a maul needs to have their head examined.



whoa doggies how much does that boy eat? 2-3 cords a day by hand is a lot of swinging!

anyway, I don't see the ridge, where is it, the top edge there?

Oh, and I will throw in my vote for best overall with the fiskars, but I'll try anything...

Couple of things with the fiskars, there needs to be a way to reapply the teflon, (I haven't tried any spray on stuff yet but I am going to..or just slather bar oil on it....) and I do not like their official sharpener, it is too plasticy wuss and doesn't do a good job for me. I use a brand x V-notched steel sharpener and a double crossed steel hand sharpener now. If I owned a good rouge wheel I would use that.


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## A.S.Woodchucker (Aug 16, 2011)

im with the Fiskars crowd on this one...had a hard maple blow down by the storms that passed through Indiana on Saturday night...just for kicks i took the x27 out and thought to myself "there is no way this will work on green hard maple"... boy i was very suprised...like a hot knife through butter. By far the best "Maul" .....i know it is a splitting ax... that i have ever used. Worth the $50 at Ace Hardware. i borrowed my buddies x25 (before i bought the x27) and it also preformed very well. if i was 5' tall instead of 6'2 i would own the x25 also. my .02


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## CTYank (Aug 16, 2011)

Oldtimer said:


> My firewood man splits 2-3 cord a day with a True-Value 8 pound maul. Has a ridge that seems to reduce friction a lot. Look close at the picture, you'll see the ridge.
> 
> Anyone who pays $170 for a maul needs to have their head examined.


 
I'll vote for a well-formed 6-lb traditional maul with hickory handle. One of mine has survived 35+ years with a nice shine on its chubby cheeks. Handles are cheap every 6-8 yrs, and used ones burn nicely.

Harder to get speed & control with 8-lb IMHO.

Obviously not a fanboy of latest scandinavian cutlery; much too "chippy". Time tells.


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## woodbooga (Aug 16, 2011)

I'm a Fiskars convert. Still have a variety of $5 yard sale mauls. Mix and match is my approach. Swell thing with the fiskars is it weighs virtually nothing, so you can swing all dar and feel no fatigue. Bought one for my father in law, a begrudging convert, and he's a convert too.

My main problem with fiskars is their distribution chain. They need to let dealers in the axes also carry the sharpener.


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## Captain Crunch (Aug 16, 2011)

Fiskars all the way. Split for 20 years w traditional. The boys got me the Fiskars for fathers day, haven't looked back.


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## ratso (Aug 16, 2011)

Thanks for the replies I'll be going by Baileys in a couple weeks and get the 
X27.


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## Bob95065 (Aug 16, 2011)

zogger said:


> whoa doggies how much does that boy eat? 2-3 cords a day by hand is a lot of swinging!



I hauled 7 cords of eucalyptus out of a friend's property with my buddy Steve over three days. The next weekend we split about 2 1/2 cord each then I went back the following weekend and split two more. I was swinging a 8 lb maul that I got at the local lumberyard years ago. I broke two hickory handles those two days. Steve stacked two cords, I need to bring two home and we are going to give a pastor at our church 3 cords. I have a lot of wood to stack.

I slept good those nights.

Bob


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## WidowMaker (Aug 17, 2011)

Are any of you guys splitting 20 to 40 inch rounds with these. They just don't look like they have bulk for it...


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## Iron Head (Aug 17, 2011)

WidowMaker said:


> Are any of you guys splitting 20 to 40 inch rounds with these. They just don't look like they have bulk for it...


 
Fiskars is way over rated.
The SS is a great ax for splitting smaller straight grain rounds.
They can't handle knarly rounds.
And the metal is too soft.

But it is a great light weight tool to have.
I team up the SS with the Big Ox and get nearly everything splitted.


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## WidowMaker (Aug 17, 2011)

Iron Head said:


> Fiskars is way over rated.
> The SS is a great ax for splitting smaller straight grain rounds.
> They can't handle knarly rounds.And the metal is too soft.
> 
> ...




===

That would be my guess just looking at it...


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 17, 2011)

After many years of hearing about the Fiskars, I finally broke down and ordered the F27 36" today. Got around 8 cord of B. Locust to work through. I probably wouild have orded one long ago if it had of had a man size handle on it. Never could understand why they had such short handles. I'll see how it stacks up against my old, antique 6lb.

Harry K


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## trailmaker (Aug 17, 2011)

ratso said:


> I have a 6 pound black knight with fiberglass handle.I have a 6 pound old hickory that is by far more ergonomic.They are ok i'm in searching for the cadilac of hand mauls.


 
When I think Cadillac I think big plush fancy and expensive. The Gransfors heavy splitting maul fits that bill. Fiskars are great, I have a bunch of them but they are more like Toyotas to me; less comfortable ride but tough and relatively cheap.


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## Rudedog (Aug 17, 2011)

tjbier said:


> I would get either Fiskars Supersplitters. X25/X27
> or "Cadillac" would be maybe a Gransfors. But at $170+ the Fiskars are really the best way too go.
> I have the Old version (x25) and will be buying the longer x27 this fall:msp_smile:


 
I have both. The Gransfors 5.5 lbs. maul is my favorite unless I'm splitting small stuff. One of the sponsors, Wes Spur, has it for $155 and it shipped free.


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## D&B Mack (Aug 17, 2011)

X27 for me. I also have the Monster (Mega) Maul, Stihl Maul, TrueTemper 8lb, Fiskars X25 and an old traditional that I have no idea brand name. If I had only one, it would be the X27.


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## zogger (Aug 17, 2011)

*Depends on the wood*



WidowMaker said:


> Are any of you guys splitting 20 to 40 inch rounds with these. They just don't look like they have bulk for it...


 

But ya, I have and do. Not right down the middle, but going round and round from the outside. I don't think any 40s yet but a lot of 30 somethings, oak and hickory and just about anything in the 20 range.

Except sweetgum, I just do not split sweetgum, cut to size and noodled, that's it. The sweetgum I have here just sucks to split, even with a hydraulic. I mean it will bust, but a zillion strings holds it together.


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## SPDRMNKY (Aug 17, 2011)

:agree2: ..except on the sweetgum...none of that here...but most of my bigger hedge gets noodled

I do big and knotty stuff one of three ways: (yes, with my fiskars)

-work my way across the face (in a straight line) with the maul...following cracks if able, and avoiding knots
-use the saw to cut a starter-line across the face to the depth of the bar...usually pops open on the first swing then
-just noodle it to size

I'll only hit any piece of wood 3 times without hearing/seeing/feeling any progress...then it goes to the noodling stump

cheers!


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## Guido Salvage (Aug 17, 2011)

I seems that everyone missed the title of this thread.....

*Whats the best hand spliting maul?*

Webster's Dictionary defines a maul as follows:

": a heavy often wooden-headed hammer used especially for driving wedges; also : a tool like a sledgehammer with one wedge-shaped end that is used to split wood"

Webster's definition of an ax:

": a cutting tool that consists of a heavy edged head fixed to a handle with the edge parallel to the handle and that is used especially for felling trees and chopping and splitting wood"

To me, an ax (or axe) has a thin wedge design while a maul has a much wider vector and heavier head that serves to prevent the tool from becoming lodged in the wood.

Please note that Fiskars calls the X-27 a "Splitting Axe". Since he asked for suggestions for a maul, I am going to vote for the Sotz Monster Maul I have been using for around 30 years. I realize they are no longer made, but they can't be beat for putting wood in the shed.


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## Coldfront (Aug 17, 2011)

Just broke down and ordered a Fiskars ssx27 from amazon with free shipping $48.20 I have 3 other mauls so with splitting season fast approaching I will give my review soon. So far my favorite is a 6# no name? that I put a fiberglass handle on, sharpened and has very smooth sides it really splits good so will see how the Fiskars stacks up.


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## brewmonster (Aug 17, 2011)

The Fiskars X27 is way over-rated. It's OK for the easy stuff only. Maybe if you want to introduce a youngster to the joys of splitting, its light weight would make it ideal.
The Monster Maul will ruin your back.
At any hardware or big box store you can get an 8# maul with fiberglass handle. One of those and a couple of steel wedges will take care of almost anything.


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## ratso (Aug 17, 2011)

Gransfors boy @ $155 it should be doing the swinging. I would like to see what justify such a mountain price.


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## bowtechmadman (Aug 17, 2011)

I'm saying the cadillac is drop the maul and grab a hydraulic handle (that's attached to a wood splitter). I've been splitting 30"+ green cottonwood for the past couple weeks (storm damage). I can't imagine trying to bust this stuff up w/ my fiskars.
I've got all the respect in the world for those people swinging mauls especially in the big stuff. I use my fiskars in nice straight grain ash but everything else goes through the hydraulic splitter.


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## D&B Mack (Aug 17, 2011)

Guido Salvage said:


> Please note that Fiskars calls the X-27 a "Splitting Axe". Since he asked for suggestions for a maul, I am going to vote for the Sotz Monster Maul I have been using for around 30 years. I realize they are no longer made, but they can't be beat for putting wood in the shed.


 
I used to have this one as well. Same as Mega Mule Maul as shown on Bailey's, which I have now.

Bailey's - Steel Handle 14.5 lbs. "Mega" Mule Maul


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## fields_mj (Aug 17, 2011)

Like many others, I am a reluctant convert. I prefer my X27. I'm 6'2" and I too would have bought one earlier if they had a longer handle. I like my X27 better than any 6lb maul that I've ever swung. For busting one single piece of wood, a 6lb maul MIGHT have a SLIGHT advantage, but not much. After an hour or two of swinging, the X27 is getting a lot more work done than the 6lb maul. Anything that the Fiskars won't split gets noodled with the 064 or thrown in the truck and droped on the splitter at home. I have an 8lb maul that I need to put a new handle in. I do still like to take it along for the ride because sometimes you have a piece that you just need to hit once really hard with something. If I ever replace the old #8 maul, it will be with a monster maul. I've swung an 8lb maul all day before, and I could get 2 cord a day out of it, but even as a young man it wore my dumb rear end out!

Oh, and yes the X27 WILL split large rounds in half, but it does take a while. I don't like working "around" a large piece, as I don't like splitting my wood down into kindling. I split the round in half with a heavy maul, wedge, or just noodle it (which is what I normally do), and then use the X27 to split the two halves into 6"~9" splits. I cut my firewood about 23" long. I'll tip the big rounds over with one end laying on a split, or another smaller piece of firewood, and then tend noodle them 75% of the way or so. I get several tipped over at once. This keeps my saw up off the ground a little more, and keeps the noodles from clogging up quite so bad. Cutting at an angle, instead of parallel, also keeps the noodles shorter which helps also. After doing several rounds this way, I set the back up an pop them apart with what ever is handy (normally the X27). From there, the X27 does a great job on them.


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## Streblerm (Aug 17, 2011)

Count me in on the Fiskars as best maul. I have used monster mauls, wedge and sledge, 6 and 8# mauls. Where I differ is that I like the shorter handled X25 better. I have both and I am 6'5" with above average upper body strength.. If you want to use a traditional roundhouse maul swing then the X27 works better. If you modify your swing style to a straight down with a flick of the wrist just before striking the round, then the shorter handle will give you more power. With the longer handle I don't have the strength or control to swing it the same as the shorter one.

I have repeatedly busted up rounds with the shorter handle and controlled downswing that I was unable to bust with the X27 and a roundhouse. I haven't encountered anything that would split with another maul if the fiskars won't do it. If you are looking to bust a 24" round in half with one swing you aren't going to do it with the fiskars or a maul. If you work around the outside and make "corners" to knock off then you can split all but the big "Ys" and crotches.


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## Coldfront (Aug 17, 2011)

brewmonster said:


> The Fiskars X27 is way over-rated. It's OK for the easy stuff only. Maybe if you want to introduce a youngster to the joys of splitting, its light weight would make it ideal.
> The Monster Maul will ruin your back.
> At any hardware or big box store you can get an 8# maul with fiberglass handle. One of those and a couple of steel wedges will take care of almost anything.


 
I hate a 8# maul, sure it splits big wood but I can split almost twice as much with a lighter 6# instead of time wasted resting muscles swinging with a 8# or bigger. The lighter weight means almost non stop splitting. I still use a hydraulic splitter for the big tough stuff, but I can split twice as fast with a maul on regular hard wood. At 54 I'm not trying to get in shape for the lumber jack competition. I split and stack 10 cords a year.


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## brewmonster (Aug 17, 2011)

Coldfront said:


> I hate a 8# maul, sure it splits big wood but I can split almost twice as much with a lighter 6# instead of time wasted resting muscles swinging with a 8# or bigger. The lighter weight means almost non stop splitting. I still use a hydraulic splitter for the big tough stuff, but I can split twice as fast with a maul on regular hard wood. At 54 I'm not trying to get in shape for the lumber jack competition. I split and stack 10 cords a year.


 
You're right, Coldfront, a 6# maul is almost as effective as an 8 pounder and easier. I just like to get the maximum effect from every blow. BTW, you handle more wood than I do, but I'm five years older!


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## WidowMaker (Aug 17, 2011)

Coldfront said:


> I hate a 8# maul, sure it splits big wood but I can split almost twice as much with a lighter 6# instead of time wasted resting muscles swinging with a 8# or bigger. The lighter weight means almost non stop splitting. I still use a hydraulic splitter for the big tough stuff, but I can split twice as fast with a maul on regular hard wood. At 54 I'm not trying to get in shape for the lumber jack competition. I split and stack 10 cords a year.



====

What he said, only I'm just days away from 67...


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## Oldtimer (Aug 17, 2011)

I was wrong; My firewood man uses a 6 pound True Value maul, not an 8 pound.
Like I said, the slight ridge up the center of each face makes a huge difference. A 6 pound maul without that ridge is much harder to split with. I tried.
Anyways, under $30 has split a couple hundered cord since november. I have some great pictures, but for some reason yahoo won't let me download them to my PC.


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## zogger (Aug 17, 2011)

*I'll keep a lookout*



Oldtimer said:


> I was wrong; My firewood man uses a 6 pound True Value maul, not an 8 pound.
> Like I said, the slight ridge up the center of each face makes a huge difference. A 6 pound maul without that ridge is much harder to split with. I tried.
> Anyways, under $30 has split a couple hundered cord since november. I have some great pictures, but for some reason yahoo won't let me download them to my PC.



I'll watch the sales and pawn shops, see if I can find one used. I'll try it, I like edged tools. A good variety is nice. I have less than zero budget for anything brand new now until way next year. Wayyy too many bills that have to be paid, with not enough income. As it is I'll have to sell something just for vehicle tags coming up.

It never ends...

My fiskars is *wonderful*, did some big hickory tonight with it, but I am not tied to any one tool either. 

At 4.5 lbs head and a really lightweight handle, it feels like swinging a whiffle bat. I could stand one more lb of steel in that head, but no more than that. I did an almost exact hickory round yesterday with a traditional maul, man that took a long time comparatively and was like ten times the work. I just wanted a back to back comparison again, to see if I was being pollyanna about the fiskars..nope, superior in most wood. Not all wood, but most of what I have to do. Stringy gnarly 30 inch plus hickory, all I could do to tip it up and over and get a grip and slide it onto the block, that heavy.

Sometimes I roll them up a plank, but I picked out a shorter splitting block and now I can tip them up on it.

Had an idea....a chopping area platform instead of a block. A big flat hardwood surface built like a tight deck, with a lot of like two inch holes drilled in it. The holes are all over, so you can stick several rounds up there, then slam in some pegs around them, wherever they have to go, to hold everything in place so nothing slides around or goes flying. A more robust version of the bungee cord idea. 

Well, I don't know two inch exactly, whatever the size like busted shovel and rake handles are, cut them up for the pegs....


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## Evanrude (Aug 17, 2011)

I have a SS (x25), X27 and a 6 pound maul with fiberglass handle. For 90% of the wood I cut, its X27. Big gnarlier rounds get the maul or noodled. Once the round is in half, usually the X27 tears it up with no problem. I still like the SS, but use the X27, as I prefer the longer handle. There is a difference between the two, the SS seems more 'nimble' and you can snap it with your wrists easier than the X27. The X27 just has that much more leverage to where you don't necessarily have to 'snap' it. I can half 30"+ rounds with a fiskars if they're not a crotch. I don't like nor am I good at chipping my way around the larger rounds - however, my dad has it down pat and prefers the SS. Having said that, my dad and I have different methods, yet, we still grab the Fiskars axes over the maul. The maul still has its place and is usually thrown in the back of the truck with the Fiskars axes.


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 18, 2011)

Coldfront said:


> I hate a 8# maul, sure it splits big wood but I can split almost twice as much with a lighter 6# instead of time wasted resting muscles swinging with a 8# or bigger. The lighter weight means almost non stop splitting. I still use a hydraulic splitter for the big tough stuff, but I can split twice as fast with a maul on regular hard wood. At 54 I'm not trying to get in shape for the lumber jack competition. I split and stack 10 cords a year.


 
I have used a 6# for over 30 years. Have had a hydraulic splitter since 86 but only use it for the tough stuff. Maul, wedge, sledge is my Physical Therapy Program to keep in some sorta shape. Currently 76 and still swinging but for sure slowing down a bunch. Looking forward to trying ou the x27, should be here Sat or Mon. Got around 8 cord B. Locust in the round to work through.

Harry K


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## Guido Salvage (Aug 18, 2011)

*Monster Maul*

To me, the Sotz is the true "Monster Maul". 







The Sotz is the orange one on the left and has served me well since back in the '80's. I picked up the red one at an auction, same general principle, but not the same. The red one is about a pound heavier and seems to want to pull to one side when I swing it and doesn't seem to split the wood with the same force. While I have not measured the heads, it appears the Monster Maul is wider.

By the way, the original Monster Maul weighed 23 pounds, what we call a Monster Maul today is actually the light weight version.


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## mayhem100 (Aug 18, 2011)

I'm still struggling to find a way to integrate my X27 into my splitting...not really having much love for it yet, but its only been a few months and a couple cords. The Fiskars needs to be razor sharp to be effective and unfortunately the edge dulls to nothing really quickly, I find I have to sharpen mine daily in order to keep up with the productivity of my old fashioned $25 yellow fiberglass handled maul.

Just last night I decided to attack a piece of maple, about 20" or so in diameter, maybe 18" long, no visible knots. Started whiddling the thing from the edges since thats what everyone says to do with the Fiskars. Sucker just kept bouncing off the wood, barely leaving a mark in the wood and thats with a full strength roundhouse swing. Took a half dozen hits to get one hunk about 2"x8" off the left edge. Another dozen hits did not yield up any more splits...but the X27, which was sharp enough to shave with when I started now is more like a butter knife. I did not try the old maul, but in the past years I would take about 3-6 swings straight up the middle of a pices of wood this size and it would just blow in two.

Dunno what I'm doing wrong. I've been splitting by hand for around 30 years now, so its not like I'm new at this. Maybe I've got a bum X27...the steel just shouldn't be this soft.


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## fields_mj (Aug 18, 2011)

mayhem100 said:


> I'm still struggling to find a way to integrate my X27 into my splitting...not really having much love for it yet, but its only been a few months and a couple cords. The Fiskars needs to be razor sharp to be effective and unfortunately the edge dulls to nothing really quickly, I find I have to sharpen mine daily in order to keep up with the productivity of my old fashioned $25 yellow fiberglass handled maul.
> 
> Just last night I decided to attack a piece of maple, about 20" or so in diameter, maybe 18" long, no visible knots. Started whiddling the thing from the edges since thats what everyone says to do with the Fiskars. Sucker just kept bouncing off the wood, barely leaving a mark in the wood and thats with a full strength roundhouse swing. Took a half dozen hits to get one hunk about 2"x8" off the left edge. Another dozen hits did not yield up any more splits...but the X27, which was sharp enough to shave with when I started now is more like a butter knife. I did not try the old maul, but in the past years I would take about 3-6 swings straight up the middle of a pices of wood this size and it would just blow in two.
> 
> Dunno what I'm doing wrong. I've been splitting by hand for around 30 years now, so its not like I'm new at this. Maybe I've got a bum X27...the steel just shouldn't be this soft.



No steel on any axe should be as soft as what you are describing. 

Also, the Fiskars does not do nearly as well with a normal round house swing. The Fiskars axes are designed to come straight down on the wood. This would cause a normal axe to get stuck, and even with a Maul, it's not teh most effective swing. With a round house, we normally hit the wood with at least a slight angle. The Fiskars works best when it comes STRAIGHT down onto the firewood. I can, and do do it with a round house swing, but my swing with a Fiskars is modified so that the head is comding straight down. I can't hit it full strength this way, but with the Fiskars I don't have to.


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## cheeves (Aug 18, 2011)

ratso said:


> I have a 6 pound black knight with fiberglass handle.I have a 6 pound old hickory that is by far more ergonomic.They are ok i'm in searching for the cadilac of hand mauls.


 I have an old Stanley that I love. Have 2 Snow&Neally mauls. One 6lb. and a 8lb. Most always pick up the Stanley 7lpounder though. Only split by hand in middle of winter for the exercise. Have a 27ton Troy-Bilt with Honda engine for most of my splitting. Tried the 41/2 Fiskars and didn't like it. Will stick with what I have. Good enough! Bob (Cheeves)


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## wampum (Aug 18, 2011)

Reality is some folks just do not know how to use a maul and possibly never will. Working in the mill,my job required me swinging a sledge very often.
Often I would be hitting a tool,and before we had tool holders,that meant a real human held the tool.If you missed there was a good chance you would hit your 
Buddy. I do not care what kind of maul you use,unless you hit the round, square and where you are aiming that maul will not work.I have several mauls,
unless the wood is knotty I will grab the light Chopper I first every time.Back when I sold chain saws,I literally sold several hundred of these.At the fairs back
then we would cut about every 45 minutes for 10 minutes or so. Then the time in between I would split with the Chopper I. I would line up 10 to 15,12 inch rounds and split them as fast as I could swing. I have heard several on here say that the Chopper is a piece of junk. I and several others could prove them wrong,they just do not or can not hit a round correctly. Really I am not picking on people,but lots of folks are not use to physical work and can not do it.
An old monster maul is probably the easiest maul to split with.You can really just raise it in the air and allow its weight to split the round.Usually it does not 
require any force by you on the down stroke. Because you are not coming with force you can get it to line up square fairly easy.
Basically what I am saying is that if you have a lot of experience using a sledge or maul,and you can hit square what you are aiming at just about
any maul will work for you.Then you can decide which is best for you. Until you learn how to use a sledge save your money,there is no magic splitter.
Its all about you learning how to use it first.


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## Coldfront (Aug 18, 2011)

A lot also depends on what you are splitting. On a lot of my straight red oak, or Ash, it splits so easy if you put too much force into your swing you not only split the wood but bury the maul 8 inches down into the dirt. And if I get one where after 2 swings the maul bounces off it like it's laughing at it, I set the round aside for the hydraulic splitter unless I get mad at the piece of wood and say I won't let any piece of wood beat me. There is a special satisfaction splitting a super tough round with a maul sometimes.


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## mayhem100 (Aug 18, 2011)

fields_mj said:


> No steel on any axe should be as soft as what you are describing.



I agree 100%. Sent an e-mail to Fiskars for a warranty request today.



> Also, the Fiskars does not do nearly as well with a normal round house swing. The Fiskars axes are designed to come straight down on the wood. This would cause a normal axe to get stuck, and even with a Maul, it's not teh most effective swing. With a round house, we normally hit the wood with at least a slight angle. The Fiskars works best when it comes STRAIGHT down onto the firewood. I can, and do do it with a round house swing, but my swing with a Fiskars is modified so that the head is comding straight down. I can't hit it full strength this way, but with the Fiskars I don't have to.



Because I use a splitting block, the top of the wood I'm splitting is about waist height, so the axe head is about as square as its going to get I think. I can't understand how the swing style would change the angle of impact though. If I swing the axe behind my back, over my head and down in a full roundhouse swing (or what I'm calling a roundhouse swing anyway), my arms and the axe are at the exact same angle they would be if I were to raise the axe over my head in front of me and brough it down. My grip hasn't changed, nor has the length of my arms, axe or my stance. The only part of the swing that matters for splitting wood is from the vertical and down 90 degrees, the rest of the swing is just how you get the axe up over your head...I just find the roundhouse is far less tiring for me.

Hopefully Fiskars will replace my X27 and my opinion will improve. Right now, this thing is just snake oil to me.


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## Coldfront (Aug 18, 2011)

My version of a round house swing (I'm right handed) is left hand at the bottom of the handle, right hand up near the maul head on the handle, maul off to my right side, lean back and to the right, come around with a big swing and my right hand slides down the handle to the bottom as I swing with as much speed and force as possible at the point of contact, while also stepping into the swing. I also but rarely do it straight back over the head sometimes, but that is more of a sissy girl looking swing imo, but it does work sometimes when I'm tired and the wood is splitting easy. If you ever watch how the guys used to swing a maul in the old days pounding in rail road spikes in old movies is how I imagine my round house swing.


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## JimmyT (Aug 18, 2011)

Top Four are: Gransfors Bruks--Sweden, Oxhead--Germany, Wetterlings--Sweden, Fiskars--Finland
You will have to make the determination when it comes to price.
Take a look at this Gransfors Bruks splitting axe with a 3 1/2 lb. head. I read about a 76 year old woman that lives in the Smoky Mountains by herself. She uses one of these splitting axes and can out split most men that use a 8 lb. splitting maul. Ain't cheap $160

http://
duluthpack.com/gransfors-long-and-large-splitting-axe.html


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## leeave96 (Aug 18, 2011)

I have used axes, mauls, sledge hammer and wedges and have found the x27 to be far away the BEST splitting tool short of a hydraulic log splitter I have ever used.

Highly recommend the x27.

Bill


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## JimmyT (Aug 18, 2011)

leeave96 said:


> I have used axes, mauls, sledge hammer and wedges and have found the x27 to be far away the BEST splitting tool short of a hydraulic log splitter I have ever used.
> 
> Highly recommend the x27.
> 
> Bill


 
Bill, I bought the Fiskars X27 with the 36" handle last January. I haven't tried it yet but it is built like a tank and a pretty good splitting axe for $43.99


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## Boydt8 (Aug 18, 2011)

Fiskars! 
I owned other mauls before, then switched to fiskars.
Goes through juniper easy. Very light weight, but very effective.


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## Iron Head (Aug 19, 2011)

mayhem100 said:


> I'm still struggling to find a way to integrate my X27 into my splitting...not really having much love for it yet, but its only been a few months and a couple cords. The Fiskars needs to be razor sharp to be effective and unfortunately the edge dulls to nothing really quickly, I find I have to sharpen mine daily in order to keep up with the productivity of my old fashioned $25 yellow fiberglass handled maul.
> 
> Just last night I decided to attack a piece of maple, about 20" or so in diameter, maybe 18" long, no visible knots. Started whiddling the thing from the edges since thats what everyone says to do with the Fiskars. Sucker just kept bouncing off the wood, barely leaving a mark in the wood and thats with a full strength roundhouse swing. Took a half dozen hits to get one hunk about 2"x8" off the left edge. Another dozen hits did not yield up any more splits...but the X27, which was sharp enough to shave with when I started now is more like a butter knife. I did not try the old maul, but in the past years I would take about 3-6 swings straight up the middle of a pices of wood this size and it would just blow in two.
> 
> Dunno what I'm doing wrong. I've been splitting by hand for around 30 years now, so its not like I'm new at this. Maybe I've got a bum X27...the steel just shouldn't be this soft.


 
That is my exact experience with the fiskars. 
I'm a razor sharp freak and like my tools to be razor sharp from.
The edge on the fiskars is way too soft and brittle.
After a few rounds, I constently find chips and dings on my fiskars.
I don't split stuff on the ground, I set my rounds on a block and carry a handy brush and a small sharp slotted screw drive to brush off any dirt and pick out any indented grits and gravel.
My guess is the cheap metal directly correlates with the cheap price tag.


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## zogger (Aug 19, 2011)

*Different production runs?*



Iron Head said:


> That is my exact experience with the fiskars.
> I'm a razor sharp freak and like my tools to be razor sharp from.
> The edge on the fiskars is way too soft and brittle.
> After a few rounds, I constently find chips and dings on my fiskars.
> ...



Maybe they are experimenting with different steels, and different people get different axes, even though they say they are the same model number. Heck, every other manufacturer of most anything out there does it.

Mine -the shorty version- gets dull, too, but a few strokes brings it back to the "good enough" stage. 

I get "rubberwood" as well. One of those and I stack it up and don't bother with it until it starts to crack and the bark gets loose on them.

Starting my fifth wood stack this weekend, already started cutting for it. Gonna be all green sweetgum mostly because I have a ton of them dandelion trees to thin out. I ain't splittin nuthin! Not a single one will I even bring any axe or maul out for, I learned my lesson.... I'm cutting the beefier rounds short then noodling, my heater loads from a normal front door or the top flips up and you can drop in a real decent much bigger chunk... then all the branch action that will fit is just cut to size and stacked. That's for winter next. I dropped a magnum whopper one about four years ago, even with the hydraulic is just sucked. Burns fine, just sucks to split. They ought to call them hoover trees....that and dutch elm are the two worst I ever encountered in any quantity.


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## Guido Salvage (Aug 19, 2011)

Iron Head said:


> After a few rounds, I constently find chips and dings on my fiskars.



I have never, ever sharpened my Sotz Monster Maul and it is still working great 25+ years later.


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## JimmyT (Aug 19, 2011)

Guido Salvage said:


> I have never, ever sharpened my Sotz Monster Maul and it is still working great 25+ years later.


 
Sotz Monster Maul with a 12 lb. head and overall weight of 15 lbs. will definitely get the job done if you can swing that beast.


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## zogger (Aug 19, 2011)

*thought of something else*



Iron Head said:


> That is my exact experience with the fiskars.
> I'm a razor sharp freak and like my tools to be razor sharp from.
> The edge on the fiskars is way too soft and brittle.
> After a few rounds, I constently find chips and dings on my fiskars.
> ...



maybe you are making it to sharp, the edge gets too fragile? You might have lost the factory angle they shipped it with. 

Try contacting fiskars and see what they say about things. Maybe they will pop for shipping and then they can look at it and see what might be different with your experience. So far, just rough guessing here on this site, about 90% or better of the guys love them and don't seem to have all that many problems with them. There's got to be some real bonafide engineering reasons here for this discrepancy with ya'all who have bad experiences with them, and I bet fiskars would be interested in that..

I have noticed mine is acutely angle sensitive. If it goes in anything but deadnutz straight it doesn't work as well. Like just a few degrees off is noticeable in its effectiveness.


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## zogger (Aug 19, 2011)

*never tried one*



JimmyT said:


> Sotz Monster Maul with a 12 lb. head and overall weight of 15 lbs. will definitely get the job done if you can swing that beast.



15 lbs is over 10% of my body weight! I wouldn't be using one of them things for any length of time..I'd give it a shot though, but I ain't buying one. Half that is quite enough. I jiss ain't that desperate to need something like that to get me wood in. If I can't bust it with something less than that..ain't interested, I'll move on to the next log....

Heck, I cut for years when I lived in maine with a sandvik bow saw and used my regular utility one size fits nothing in particular generic ax to split with. Didn't even own a maul...and ya know, I burned a little more back then than I do today, around five cords up there, 4.5 here (larger cabin here, plus thin and thin blooded GF)

heh where is the "big ole boy" splitter with a comparable proportional head, the 35 lb maul for the "bigger is better" enthusiasts


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## mitch95100 (Aug 19, 2011)

Idiots- who the #### needs a splitting maul when god invented black powder:hmm3grin2orange:


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 20, 2011)

Mine came today. Unboxed it, admired it, showed it to the wife, thought about going out and giving it a try. Glance at clock said "No way, it is already 2 pm and you just opened the first brew!".

I'll give it a shot tomorrow 

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 20, 2011)

turnkey4099 said:


> Mine came today. Unboxed it, admired it, showed it to the wife, thought about going out and giving it a try. Glance at clock said "No way, it is already 2 pm and you just opened the first brew!".
> 
> I'll give it a shot tomorrow
> 
> Harry K


 
Wow! Tried it out in bone dry B. Locust - splits that had to halved to fit in the stove. I alternated Fiskars/6lb maul. No contest, Fiskars felt like a toothpick and was splitting it without even swinging hard, maul was heavy and need to be swung.

Granted bone dry Locust with out knots almost falls apart on its own but the ease of splitting was noticeable.

One possible 'not like'. If the Fiskars didn't split it, it would bounce out vice staying to be given a smack on the back to finish the cut. After most of a lifetime as kid and adult using a maul I still can't hit the same spot twice - close but not exact. Doesn't help when a chunk doesn't split the first shot.

I'll be starting to split "in the round" B. Locust cut a week or two ago tomorrow or the next day, see how it goes then.

Bottom line: I am sold!!

Harry K


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## banshee67 (Aug 20, 2011)

another vote for fiskars SS


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## SPDRMNKY (Aug 20, 2011)

had a thought on crumbling fiskars edges today...obviously the head is made of a harder (more brittle) metal than traditional mauls or axes...

but I think the shape of the head is also a big contributor to losing an edge sooner. most traditional mauls are (basically) convex as you go from edge to handle...or at least straight...the fiskars is concave as you go from edge to handle. relatively speaking (even if head weight was the same) a concave shaped head will have less metal than a convex shaped head, as you go any given distance from the edge toward the handle. this means less "structure" near the edge, and so stresses from impact are distributed through less metal, and damage happens sooner.

I think that makes sense. I split on the ground, and so usually have a fair amount of damage on the edge. I just clamp the head in a vice, dress the edges with a small file, and then finish the edge with the sharpener...a lot faster than trying to use the sharpener right-side-up. someday I'll invest in a better sharpener.

cheers!


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## zogger (Aug 20, 2011)

*you got it*



turnkey4099 said:


> Wow! Tried it out in bone dry B. Locust - splits that had to halved to fit in the stove. I alternated Fiskars/6lb maul. No contest, Fiskars felt like a toothpick and was splitting it without even swinging hard, maul was heavy and need to be swung.
> 
> Granted bone dry Locust with out knots almost falls apart on its own but the ease of splitting was noticeable.
> 
> ...



It is speed, accuracy and focus that makes it work. It AIN'T a maul. The technique matters a LOT. Use it like your generic big heavy medium dull maul, it just won't work. Use it like what it was designed for, it works. It helps immensely to be able to follow the natural splits exactly. You can still split any which way, but that works the best. So ya, work on your aim and notice if the blade is going in straight or not, every degree off dead on straight down will lessen impact force...of course you can get fancy and match the grain angle if it is a twisty jobber.......

Also, don't wait until it is completely dull, touch it up frequently.

You WILL notice the teflon wearing off after some cords, I give that aspect of the design a C, it doesn't last as long as I wished it did. I don't have a dedicated spray can of ...something... yet, but I am going to get one. I figure every time I touch it up, give it a spray afterwards. 

Need a review on spray on lube...which works the best for the cheapest bucks. Of course there is always bar oil..maybe tomorrow I will try that. Proly way too thick though... I don't think wd40 would do much. Has to be something with teflon or silicone maybe in it. Maybe some of that graphite lube someone dropped a link to earlier.


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## max2cam (Aug 21, 2011)

While the Fiskars SS might be the "best" if you only own one maul, you really need more than one. 

Even with the Fiskars I still bring out the old Monster Maul on occassion for wood that needs "special" treatment. An old fashioned 6 lb maul also comes in handy at times. The same is true for wedges and sledge hammer. They all have their uses...


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 21, 2011)

max2cam said:


> While the Fiskars SS might be the "best" if you only own one maul, you really need more than one.
> 
> Even with the Fiskars I still bring out the old Monster Maul on occassion for wood that needs "special" treatment. An old fashioned 6 lb maul also comes in handy at times. The same is true for wedges and sledge hammer. They all have their uses...


 
+1

Even with a hydraulic splitter you still need some of that...especially if you haul your wood frm the site to the splitter.

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 21, 2011)

zogger said:


> It is speed, accuracy and focus that makes it work. It AIN'T a maul. The technique matters a LOT. Use it like your generic big heavy medium dull maul, it just won't work. Use it like what it was designed for, it works. It helps immensely to be able to follow the natural splits exactly. You can still split any which way, but that works the best. So ya, work on your aim and notice if the blade is going in straight or not, every degree off dead on straight down will lessen impact force...of course you can get fancy and match the grain angle if it is a twisty jobber.......
> 
> Also, don't wait until it is completely dull, touch it up frequently.
> 
> ...


 
There are several spray lubes. I have a can of "TriFlow with Teflon" probably 30 years old, still good and a "CRC" which is more of a penetrant but also does some lubrication. You are right WD40 is not the stuff you want.

Harry K


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## Captain Crunch (Aug 21, 2011)

turnkey4099 said:


> One possible 'not like'. If the Fiskars didn't split it, it would bounce out vice staying to be given a smack on the back to finish the cut. After most of a lifetime as kid and adult using a maul I still can't hit the same spot twice - close but not exact!!
> 
> Harry K


 
I have not had my Fiskars bounce out of anything yet. When it sticks I give the handle a smack with my hand to free it. 
I have seem too many light splitting axes with busted heads to whack anything but a wedge with the sledge.


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## cheeves (Aug 21, 2011)

*Splitting mauls*



turnkey4099 said:


> There are several spray lubes. I have a can of "TriFlow with Teflon" probably 30 years old, still good and a "CRC" which is more of a penetrant but also does some lubrication. You are right WD40 is not the stuff you want.
> 
> Harry K


 
turnkey4099 you're right on the money! I've been splitting wood since the fifties when my grandfather made me a little maul for splitting kindling. He spent a long time out by the barn teaching me the the proper technique. He also worked with me so I could hit the same spot over and over. Back then no one had any splitters. It was all manual labor. And cross cut saws were used too mostly. So splitting was taken very seriously as was "getting in the wood." Proper cleaning and sharpening the equipment was a religion. If you didn't do it you'd get a beatin'.

With mauls it's all in the design of the heads. What strikes the wood. That's why the Snow&Neally's work so good. Same with the Fiskars. But as someone stated they aren't really considered a maul. I used the X25 but found it to be too light. I'm 6'3" with a really long back. Great for splitting wood. I love to actually!! When you get in that rhythm, it's great. Wood starts piling up you're sweating fantastic. My old Stanley 7 pounder is one of my most prized possessions. Found it in the dump. Don't know how old it is, but works like a charm. I'd make a fortune if I could copy this baby and sell them. That's something to think about.

Anyway thanks. Bob (Cheeves)


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## Iron Head (Aug 22, 2011)

SPDRMNKY said:


> had a thought on crumbling fiskars edges today...obviously the head is made of a harder (more brittle) metal than traditional mauls or axes...
> 
> but I think the shape of the head is also a big contributor to losing an edge sooner. most traditional mauls are (basically) convex as you go from edge to handle...or at least straight...the fiskars is concave as you go from edge to handle. relatively speaking (even if head weight was the same) a concave shaped head will have less metal than a convex shaped head, as you go any given distance from the edge toward the handle. this means less "structure" near the edge, and so stresses from impact are distributed through less metal, and damage happens sooner.
> 
> ...


 
You are right about the shape of the fiskars blade.
The fiskars has a very sharp blade and is thinly tappered to a wedge toward the top.
All the energy from a swing gets transfered to the sharp blade so that the blade gets burried to the wedge and splits the wood.
That is an awesome design. Now they need to upgrade to a harder metal so that the sharp blade holds better.
Once they do this upgrade, then the Fiskar may be the ultimate splitting axe. But the price will most likely be up there with the other premium mauls.


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## Cerran (Aug 22, 2011)

I've been splitting with the x27 for a few weeks now and I love it. I've pretty much abandoned my old mauls with the exception of really stubborn pieces of wood that require a wedge.

Another vote for the Fiskars x27 here.


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## zogger (Aug 22, 2011)

*tool steel*



Iron Head said:


> You are right about the shape of the fiskars blade.
> The fiskars has a very sharp blade and is thinly tappered to a wedge toward the top.
> All the energy from a swing gets transfered to the sharp blade so that the blade gets burried to the wedge and splits the wood.
> That is an awesome design. Now they need to upgrade to a harder metal so that the sharp blade holds better.
> Once they do this upgrade, then the Fiskar may be the ultimate splitting axe. But the price will most likely be up there with the other premium mauls.



I had a driveshaft on a piece of tractor equipment here I had to shorten a coupla inches. Split two piece sliding shaft, common on this stuff. One side I cut off easy, the other side..I mean dang. I am not all that up on various steels I am way more an old wood worker than metal worker. That stuff was impervious to anything I had. Not a dang thing would even scratch it, A new sharp file, nothing, grinder wheel, nothing, hack saws powered or hand, nothing. Not a scratch, let alone cut it. So, I give it to my boss, he has a shop in town. He couldn't cut it either, had to tote it to some friend of his with a dedicated machine shop and they had to use some sort of exotic diamond (whatever I don't know) cutoff wheel thing. That's the hardest stuff I have ever seen. Would like an axe made from it, if it came with the appropriate sharpener....Oh heck, I would like a pick, shovel, hoe, adze, buncha stuff made from that sort of steel.


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## JimmyT (Aug 22, 2011)

Zogger, your driveshaft may have been made out of molybneum steel.


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## Qsky (Aug 22, 2011)

+1 for the Fiskars SS!! Been splitting oak for 3 years with the Fiskars SS. Maybe 100 face cords, out of those I had maybe a dozen pieces that I couldn't split. Gave those to a buddy for his campfire.


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## Coldfront (Aug 22, 2011)

Just got my Fiskars SS x27 today sitting by the back door when I got home, I'm going out right now to test it on some oak, and compare to my old stand by 6# maul.


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## ratso (Aug 26, 2011)

I got use my X27 for the first time. I have noticed an increase in speed over my 6 pound maul.I had to put a round out so I would not put the X27 in the dirt.


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 27, 2011)

ratso said:


> I got use my X27 for the first time. I have noticed an increase in speed over my 6 pound maul.I had to put a round out so I would not put the X27 in the dirt.


 
Used mine on my greenest B. Locust today. Walked right through it and less effort than I used to use with my 6lb maul. That thang is impressive!

Harry K


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## Rio_Grande (Aug 27, 2011)

Is the Fiscars really that good? I split all hardwood and abandoned had splitting because the mauls I have just bounce out of the wood. Splitting with wedges just aint much fun. I would love to go back to some hand splitting if i could do it with some regular success. School me I need the excercise!!


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## Captain Crunch (Aug 27, 2011)

Rio_Grande said:


> Is the Fiscars really that good? I split all hardwood and abandoned had splitting because the mauls I have just bounce out of the wood. Splitting with wedges just aint much fun. I would love to go back to some hand splitting if i could do it with some regular success. School me I need the excercise!!


 
If a piece IS split-able, the Fiskars will do it easier, to me, than conventional 6 or 8 lb. It has never bounced out. So yes, it is that good, to me.


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## Iron Head (Aug 27, 2011)

Rio_Grande said:


> Is the Fiscars really that good? I split all hardwood and abandoned had splitting because the mauls I have just bounce out of the wood. Splitting with wedges just aint much fun. I would love to go back to some hand splitting if i could do it with some regular success. School me I need the excercise!!


 
Give your gild maul a sharp edge and see if she can get a bite into the wood.


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 27, 2011)

Captain Crunch said:


> If a piece IS split-able, the Fiskars will do it easier, to me, than conventional 6 or 8 lb. It has never bounced out. So yes, it is that good, to me.


 
Come on over and I'll give you a shot at my stock of B. Locust round. It _will_ bounce out often. However, it starts a crack at the same time so if you hit the same spot again it will split after 1 or 2 more strikes. Just came in from using one. Most strikes I used was 4, 1 original and 3 followup, first 3 all bounced out but each expanded the crack a bit. 4 strikes with Fiskars takes about the same effort as one with wedge/sledge or 2 with a maul.

I am still amazed at that thing. Rounds that I used to 'halve' with wedge/sledge now done with just the Fiskars. 

Harry K


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## Captain Crunch (Aug 28, 2011)

turnkey4099 said:


> Come on over and I'll give you a shot at my stock of B. Locust round. It _will_ bounce out often. However, it starts a crack at the same time so
> 
> Harry K


 
No black locust in my wood pile, I guess I could have qualified my statement with what I mostly split. Silver maple, box elder, mulberry, a little red pine, sugar maple. So nothing really bad. So perfect for hand splitting and thus fastest w Fiskars.


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## Johndirt82 (Aug 28, 2011)

Id have to say I like the Stihl PA80 6.6 lbs 33" handle. Makes good for driving wedges and splitting big oak rounds while out getting firewood.


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## JimmyT (Aug 28, 2011)

Johndirt82 said:


> Id have to say I like the Stihl PA80 6.6 lbs 33" handle. Makes good for driving wedges and splitting big oak rounds while out getting firewood.


 
The Stihl PA80 is made by Ox-Head in Germany and is a very fine splitting maul. I love the hooked bill for rolling logs.


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## Johndirt82 (Aug 28, 2011)

Ox head axes are sure nice, and pricey. I love it. Fiskars are for those who don't know better , sorry but its the truth. They work ok for knot free straight grained wood but thats about it.


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 28, 2011)

Johndirt82 said:


> Ox head axes are sure nice, and pricey. I love it. Fiskars are for those who don't know better , sorry but its the truth. They work ok for knot free straight grained wood but thats about it.


 
The not only work "ok" for knot free etc. they are the best thing going for it. As for knots, etc: There is no one tool that does everything. Anyone approaching a stack of rounds to split needs to be equipped with 2 wedges, 1 10 lb sledge, and a 6lb maul (or Fiskars splitting ax). I will take both of the latter and used each an every one of those tools in my 1 hour PT session this morning.

My tool equipment now includes the Fiskars x27 and a Log Rite Pickeroon. I would have a hard time deciding which of the two I would give up if I had t part with one of 'em.

Now let's argue over chev vs ford.

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 28, 2011)

Captain Crunch said:


> No black locust in my wood pile, I guess I could have qualified my statement with what I mostly split. Silver maple, box elder, mulberry, a little red pine, sugar maple. So nothing really bad. So perfect for hand splitting and thus fastest w Fiskars.


 
I came across a couple 12" rounds of Black Walnut yesterday. Fiskars would just stick, work loose, stricke, stick again, repeat 4 times and finally resorted to wedge/sledge. It was knot free. All I got with the Fiskars was a bare start of a split. 

Up until i got mine last week my method was: halve a round with wedge/sledge, hit halves with maul and if no split, hammer on maul with wedge. I now prefer to have the Fiskars bounce out as it avoids haveing to work it out before striking again  3 or 4 hits with the Fiskars is way less effort than wedge sledge or even 2 with a maul.

The B. Locust is the ony species I can recall over 30 years that will 'reject' a wedge. some of the green rounds has to have a saw kerf cut just deep enough to seat the wedge before the wedge will stay in when hit.

Harry K


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## Johndirt82 (Aug 28, 2011)

I only use a maul or wedge n sledge to get big rounds in qtrs . I finally built a 22hp splitter and it don't care what goes through that. It has split everything I have put through it so far in about 100 cords worth. To each their own though. Before I built the splitter I used an 8lb sledge with the handle cut in half and an 8lb maul. If the maul got stuck it hold the maul handle with one hand and drive it through with the short sledge. Try one handing a long sledge end of the handle hit me in the wang one day and I cut it in half immediately. Worked great. Until I started tearing tendons in my wrist from the impact of swinging the sledge. Oh well. life goes on thats when I built a splitter.
And you are right there is never one tool for a job like firewooding always good to have a variety of tools at your disposal. besides tools are fun to play with.


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