# Firewood Gathering: Tips of the Trade



## husqvarnaX (Mar 30, 2010)

Share some cool or innovative techniques you've come up over the years that make cutting firewood more efficient. Wether its a method of of hauling the wood to a modification to a tool, let everyone know.

I have one for getting all of your rounds the same lenghth: If you have a Husqvarna saw with a 20" bar its almost exactly 16" from your crankcase to the end of your bar, I can run down a log making quick cuts that run parralel donw the tree. Beats using a stick and hatchet.


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## jhoff310 (Mar 30, 2010)

I jb welded 2 nuts together on the end of a 16" piece of all thread and attach that to the first bolt on my saw that holds the bar on that way I know everypiece is 16" long.. 
Baileys sells something similar

Jeff


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## BluCllrSchlr (Mar 30, 2010)

I already posted this over in the Chainsaw section, but it's been a while.

I made a sled to carry my saws n stuff and also to used it to get the wood to the truck. Got it from Lowe's and bent a piece of 1/2" conduit for a frame, connected it w/ rivets at each of the vertical ribs and put a rope on w/ S-hooks. I was really happy with it. There's no comparison between a sled and a wheelbarrow when going through woods, especially in the snow.

I finally wore through the back corners of the floor. I also put it to work bringing firewood from my stacks to the back door.

I liked it so much I already bought a bigger one made for ice fishing. Only trouble is, the sides have a contour and expect it to be a tricky deal to bend the conduit.


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## husqvarnaX (Mar 30, 2010)

*Some splitting tips with maul*

1. Use the whole handle, as you swing your top hand should slide down the handle and finish touching the other hand. Slide your hand up the handle to retrieve the maul over your head. (I use an 8 lbs maul). This keeps you from bending over so far (protects you back) and gives far better speed with the maul.

2. every block has some natural cracks. with knotty and large wood, aim for those.

3. put the knots on the bottom.

4. with large un-splittable blocks, chip chunks off the side, it lowers the cohesion of the rest of the block and eventually you can split anything.


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## ryan_marine (Mar 30, 2010)

I use the paint marker from Baileys. I love it. Also get a splitter. Saves alot of work on your body. Esp if you do as much as we do. Also when cutting fire wood check the local mills. They buy alot of wood that others may call junk wood. I can sell any type of wood that is 11" across and 8.5' long. It is easy money if you cutting anyways. And not alot of equipment is needed. That is how I got started logging. No place to cut wood, find a mill and aske where you can cut tops. You will find more than enough wood. (as long as they don't send you to me early in the season) I have orders for about 400 cord this year. Learn how to sharpen your own chain. Saves alot of time in the woods and is alot cheaper. Get a tool box to keep spares in. I use a cheap 20" plastic box. I keep atleast 3 chains for every bar. Also I keep at least a jug of mix oil for 1 gallon. You never know when you forget to check you saw gas can and see when you need more. I also keep an extra bar incase I bend one or somthing else happens. I keep a small parts stash in the truck. (bar nuts, eclips, spark plugs, air filters, and a few others) Take atleast 2 saws with you when you go cut wood. If you pinch one real bad pull the power head (to save it if things go really bad) and use the other saw to free it. Talk to others that cut wood and if you can cut together. You can always learn somthing from watching another person cut. Film your self cutting. You will be able to learn from that as well. I am sure there are others that I am forgetting.

Ray


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## isaaccarlson (Mar 30, 2010)

keep your truck in top working order. It is your other mate. You get nothing done without it.


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## luvsaws (Mar 31, 2010)

Clean your saws when your done cutting!


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## isaaccarlson (Mar 31, 2010)

Amen! +1


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## dingeryote (Mar 31, 2010)

Keep one of those three pronged garden tools handy when cutting.
They come in darn handy for peeling those Hairy vines off of a tree without getting all covered in poison ivy.

A can of ether works wonders in decontaminating a saw after cutting in poison ivy/Oak. Just let it cool down first..

Always pack water chow and fire, and leave a note where you're gonna be cutting and when you should be back.

That way when they find ya with a tree dropped on your truck, you'll be warm and well fed, and not cranky like most people.

If you're gonna carry the saw in the bed on the wood, tie it to something useless you don't care about. Nobody loses crap they don't care about, just chainsaws.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## turnkey4099 (Mar 31, 2010)

jhoff310 said:


> I jb welded 2 nuts together on the end of a 16" piece of all thread and attach that to the first bolt on my saw that holds the bar on that way I know everypiece is 16" long..
> Baileys sells something similar
> 
> Jeff



Don't bite on the Bailey's one. The rod is of fragile (very) plastic. I broke two of them in the first few minutes of use jusst by setting my saw down crooked.

Thanks for the tip on the two nuts. I was trying to come up with a way to make metal rods to fit the Stihl long nut from Bailey's.

Harry K


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## bass_on_tap (Mar 31, 2010)

I've got a Mingo Marker like this:







It works ok if your not experienced enough to cut 16" piece consistantly. However, with the additional wheels you can mark pieces at 6", 12", 18" and 24" if needed. It works best with log loads where you can mark a few lenghths at a time. Here's a video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Rc3g8IZVOg


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## goof008 (Mar 31, 2010)

BluCllrSchlr said:


> I already posted this over in the Chainsaw section, but it's been a while.
> 
> I made a sled to carry my saws n stuff and also to used it to get the wood to the truck. Got it from Lowe's and bent a piece of 1/2" conduit for a frame, connected it w/ rivets at each of the vertical ribs and put a rope on w/ S-hooks. I was really happy with it. There's no comparison between a sled and a wheelbarrow when going through woods, especially in the snow.
> 
> ...



I like that...I have one for ice fishing that may serve dual duty. Mine has 2 spots molded in to hold 5 gal. buckets...which is what I usually carry my stuff in.


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## Wife'nHubby (Mar 31, 2010)

goof008 said:


> I like that...I have one for ice fishing that may serve dual duty. Mine has 2 spots molded in to hold 5 gal. buckets...which is what I usually carry my stuff in.



Similar item, the Otter sled, works great for bringing firewood from the woodpile to the house when the ground is covered with snow.

Shari


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## BluCllrSchlr (Mar 31, 2010)

bass_on_tap said:


> I've got a Mingo Marker
> 
> 
> I like the looks of the Mingo Marker, but I cut wood to 20". When I checked, they didn't have a wheel for that size.
> ...


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## Wife'nHubby (Mar 31, 2010)

BluCllrSchlr said:


> bass_on_tap said:
> 
> 
> > I've got a Mingo Marker
> ...


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## KD57 (Mar 31, 2010)

dingeryote said:


> A can of ether works wonders in decontaminating a saw after cutting in poison ivy/Oak. *Just let it cool down first..*
> 
> 
> Stay safe!
> Dingeryote



Now that is a good tip !! Unless flash fires is your thing, lol.


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## DJ4wd (Mar 31, 2010)

I always take my log jack so I keep my chain out of the dirt. Another trick when you use your tractor is put the boompole on it and pick up the log as far as possible and roll another peice uder it. Now when you cut you can do so waist high and have no chance of getting the chain the the dirt/rocks. Please be careful not to cut your leg though.
As you can tell I have rocky land and have had more then a few days of cutting lost from rookie mistakes like getting into a rock with my chain.


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## Turkeyslayer (Mar 31, 2010)

An Army surplus 50cal ammuntion box makes a sturdy toolbox to carry wedges, files etc. I switched over this year from the plastic Mtn shotgun ammo boxes that can be bought at Walmart. I have broke a few of the plastic boxes in the cold, the metal shoud stand up alot better.


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## logbutcher (Mar 31, 2010)

Bucking to length: draw a thick line all around your saw(s) and/or bar(s) with a black permanent marker. It's always there, nothing in the way of cuts, simple. While limbing and bucking, easy.

Said before: learn to sharpen by hand. PHERD works for us, but there are other neat hand guides. A stump vise is cheap, quick, strong. (Baileys).

Learn the techniques of Wilderness Medicine. Most of us cut alone, usually far away from any immediate ER care. The skill and tools are from Mil Medic practice: bleeding, breathing, evac, etc.....this time you do it for yourself. How many of you carry serious blood stopping pads( the long gone full Kotex ) or "blood" powder ? Don't depend on cell reception.

Harvest in winter: no vipers, no bugs, hard ground, soft snow (here usually), cool armpits, no ground hollows to eat equipment.

Full wrap Labonville Chaps. Maybe also Kevlar gloves.


JMNSHO


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## Mike PA (Mar 31, 2010)

:agree2: on cutting in winter. Frozen ground, less sweat and no bugs are a big plus.


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## gwiley (Mar 31, 2010)

*Equipment*

I hate the cliche "work smarter not harder", but in firewood harvesting it really shines. Put as much as you can into good equipment and you will benefit from more time and energy to harvest more wood.

Tractor/loader: if there is any way to finagle this, do it. Even a 20 year old skid steer is a HUGE help. My skid steer has multiplied my efficiency more than I can measure.

Heavy truck: Remember, time spent driving to/from a cutting site is lost. The more wood you can carry per trip the less time per cord you spend.

Heavy Trailer: see above

Spare gear: always carry spares for critical gear - time spent going to get a spare is lost. Spare throwline, spare chainsaw, spare wedges, spare bar nuts, spare chains, spare bar.

Check your gear before travelling to a cutting site: the time to discover a bum saw is at your garage, not after a 30 minute drive to a site. Start it up, rev it, does it sound right? What about fuel - do you have as much as you thought you did?

Maintenance: Take the time to perform maintenance BEFORE you need to. Use a rainy day or down time to change filters, grease fittings, check wear on critical parts. Don't forget trailers, hitches, tires.

Tools: carry tools sufficient to do hard things. I always carry a floor jack, a 4 ton come along and a simple set of mechanics tools. If something gets stuck, wedged or broken at the site you don't want to drive back to the garage (maybe you can't).

Every time you handle wood make an effort to put it as close to the final spot as possible. Make a conscious decision to design your wood staging, splitting and storage to minimize touches to each piece.

Keep everything large until the last possible minute. Don't buck a 14' log until you have to - preferably when it is laying right next to the place you will stack the splits. Don't split rounds unless they are right next to where they will be staked to season. If you use a mechanized splitter make sure it is mobile (attached to loader, lawn tractor, etc.).

Make an effort to find a cutting buddy, an extra set of hands can be priceless when you need them.


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## freemind (Mar 31, 2010)

gwiley said:


> I hate the cliche "work smarter not harder", but in firewood harvesting it really shines. Put as much as you can into good equipment and you will benefit from more time and energy to harvest more wood.
> 
> Tractor/loader: if there is any way to finagle this, do it. Even a 20 year old skid steer is a HUGE help. My skid steer has multiplied my efficiency more than I can measure.
> 
> ...




SAGE advice.

Every time you touch a stick of wood, it is time lost. It is also extra energy expended that could have been used doing something else. 

Every time you swing a maul, you are opening yourself up to an injury. 

I don't have the perfect system, but I am MUCH farther ahead then I was 4 years ago. Making firewood should be a production line. It is much more efficient that way. 

Rep coming your way gwiley.


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## JEA (Mar 31, 2010)

Completely agree about the value of tractor/loader as mentioned above. In addition, buy a grapple for the loader (or pallet forks) so you can pick up the logs and block them up at a comfortable height above the ground. This will be a back saver over the years.


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## gwiley (Mar 31, 2010)

JEA said:


> Completely agree about the value of tractor/loader as mentioned above. In addition, buy a grapple for the loader (or pallet forks) so you can pick up the logs and block them up at a comfortable height above the ground. This will be a back saver over the years.



Amen to the grapple.

Our skid steer was part of a package that came with a grapple. I remember thinking "why would I need that?", got the guy to drop the price $500 to leave the grapple out. I SUCK! There isn't a day that goes by that I don't regret that $500. Can't find a working grapple for under $1000 and that just won't fly with all the gear I have bought lately.


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## BigE (Mar 31, 2010)

A backhoe attachment with a thumb is also a very nice way to hold the logs for bucking up.


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## ryan_marine (Mar 31, 2010)

Toliet paper!!! You never know when you will have to go. 

I always carry in my truck 1 tampon and 2 maxi pads. Reason is if you get inpaled my a small rock or stick from your saw than you can use the tampon to plug the wound. Trust me it works. Also works great for bullet holes. The maxi pad to stop bleeding from an accidental saw to the leg. You never know when you might need it. It is best to have it and not need it than not to and you do need it. 

Ray


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## garmar (Mar 31, 2010)

Don't use this pic as a model for the correct use of PPE.


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## logbutcher (Mar 31, 2010)

garmar said:


> Don't use this pic as a model for the correct use of PPE.



Why ?


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## freemind (Mar 31, 2010)

garmar said:


> Don't use this pic as a model for the correct use of PPE.



Hmmmm...


That bears a striking resemblence to a avitar that Avalancher had.


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## spike60 (Mar 31, 2010)

Always nice to have a saw behind the seat of the truck for when you stumble on a nice roadside find. 

Playground chalk is a great way to mark off a log. Quick to use, easy to see, no overspray, and lots of nice colors. 

Always good bring an extra saw.

Another thing that should be in the toolbox is an extra starter rope, especially if you only have one saw. 

I always put my saws away clean and sharp so they're ready to go the next time. 

If I pull out a saw that hasn't been run in a while, I fire it up before I go. 

There's more work in loading the truck than cutting the wood, so I like to cut a little, load a little, cut some more, etc.

I don't always bring fuel and oil jugs. You can fill a pickup truck on half a tank of saw gas, so having two full saws is more than enough if that's all the cutting you are going to do at one time. 

I like what a lot of you guys said about the safety stuff, and I'm going to adopt some of those ideas. (That's a weak point of mine )


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## cedarman (Mar 31, 2010)

Make a good 5/16" 8 foot choke chain. that away you can wrap the chain around any big log drag a log out of brush onto a logging road, path, trail or flat area to be bucked and loaded.

If your clumsy like me a flat open space to work in really makes it good on your body, makes the job easier and is alot safer. 

and its alot nicer to work on a open space rather than fighting bull bryers, poison ivy and vines.


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## TreePointer (Mar 31, 2010)

Ya'll have it all wrong. The man in the picture has acute CAD and is only able to have a movement if he's soothed by the vibration of a 2-stroke engine.


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## MNGuns (Mar 31, 2010)

With out reading al 3 pages, I say never cut more than you can haul, cause somebody else will be glad to haul the rest away for you...


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## Bcat22 (Mar 31, 2010)

spike60 said:


> Always nice to have a saw behind the seat of the truck for when you stumble on a nice roadside find.
> 
> Playground chalk is a great way to mark off a log. Quick to use, easy to see, no overspray, and lots of nice colors.
> 
> ...



yup, could have used this advice about three weeks ago... lost most of a day of cutting on sunday. Ran out the first tank of fuel, broke the rope restarting.
no spares at home.


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## Steve NW WI (Mar 31, 2010)

If you're gonna skid your logs out to a clearing to work them up, don't skimp on cheap chains/cables.

Here are some ratings of common 3/8" chain:

Grade 30 or "proof" chain is the lowest grade stuff, 2750# working load limit

Grade 43 or "high test" is a bit better at 5400# WLL

Grade 70 or "transport" is better yet at 6600#, and probably the best you'll find in a hardware store

Grade 80 is the lowest grade rated for overhead lifting, and rated at 7300#WLL

Most of the grade 30/43 stuff is cheap foreign stuff, and whether or not it would test out to it's actual rating is questionable. Neither is allowed for use as a tie down on cargo by the DOT, hence the "transport" name on grade 70. If you're in a wreck hauling something tied down with cheap chain, expect trouble.

Most tractors and 4wd trucks will dead pull (drag) 3/4 or so of their weight, so that should be a guide to go by. I won't use anything less than grade 70 3/8" chain personally.

Also make sure the hooks are rated the same or higher than the links in the chain. Grade 30/43 is often not marked on the chain, but 70 and higher will have the grade, or at least the first number, IE 7, 70 or G70 stamped into each link, and connectors and hooks will be marked as well.

Broken chains will mangle a lot of body work, and the flesh and bone variety is a lot harder to fix than the sheet metal stuff!


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## cedarman (Apr 1, 2010)

good point steve.

I use my atv to skid my logs. from experience, my atv will stop and bury all four wheels way before the 5/16" chain breaks.

if your using a tractor or pickup, then yes a 3/8" chain is the way to go.


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## spike60 (Apr 1, 2010)

Steves' chain advice is the best in this thread. 

True story: A customer of mine was killed by a broken chain. Guy in his 30's with young kids. Not sure if he was skidding logs or yanking out a stump, but he was on his tractor when the chain let go, and it came up and got him in the head. Never knew what hit him. Cheap imported chain.


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## cedarman (Apr 1, 2010)

spike60 said:


> Steves' chain advice is the best in this thread.
> 
> True story: A customer of mine was killed by a broken chain. Guy in his 30's with young kids. Not sure if he was skidding logs or yanking out a stump, but he was on his tractor when the chain let go, and it came up and got him in the head. Never knew what hit him. Cheap imported chain.



holy cow! Man thats terrible!


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## gwiley (Apr 1, 2010)

The cheapest source I have seen for chain is at Lowes, sold as "tow chain", it is grade 70, 20' long and has 2 binder hooks for $40, rated at near 5000lbs. I have bought three of these and use them for skidding, tying down the skid steer when I haul, tying down loads of large logs etc.


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## KD57 (Apr 1, 2010)

Hmmm... after 40 years of firewood cutting, you would think I would have some tips, but I can't think of any right now that hasn't been covered.

Good tip on the chain Steve, snapback on a broken chain is a killer for sure.


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## isaaccarlson (Apr 1, 2010)

My dad gave my brother a 20' length of transport chain (grade 80) to use for logs. Now I have it. Works well and the feeling of security is nice. My brother has taken running starts with the truck and hit the end of that chain at about 15 mph. It will rip the bumper off the truck before it will break. Good stuff.


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## Turkeyslayer (Apr 1, 2010)

Also keep an eye out at yardsales for chain. In the fall my dad picked up 30' of 3/8 transport chain and 6 load binders for $30 for me. The guy was a trucker that was retiring, and getting rid of his equipment.


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## GPETER (Apr 1, 2010)

I dont know if this works for chain but when winching with steel cable place an old blanket or floor mat over the taught winch line so that if it breaks the line will hit the ground under the weight and not fly up at anyone.


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## Limestone (Apr 2, 2010)

GPETER my thoughts exactly


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## lazermule (Apr 2, 2010)

I have had good luck with mixing a small amount of Seafoam in with my saw fuel. My general rule is 1/2 the volume of the oil. This keeps the fuel fresh and cuts down on gummed up carbs and carbon build up.


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## kerf (Apr 2, 2010)

If you don't have a second saw, always have an extra bar and chain. If your bar gets stuck you can unbolt the saw from the bar, bolt on the spare and cut out your stuck bar.


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## Beefie (Apr 2, 2010)

kerf said:


> If you don't have a second saw, always have an extra bar and chain. If your bar gets stuck you can unbolt the saw from the bar, bolt on the spare and cut out your stuck bar.



Good first post Kerf, welcome to A.S. .
Rep sent for good info.

Beefie


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## Sierra99 (Apr 2, 2010)

A 20 ft recovery strap is good to have: for getting your truck or someone elses out of a bog; also for securing winch line to a tree without damaging the tree. 

A small pack with all usual gear for surviving: knife, fire, batteries, food, water, tarp, spare socks, wool cap, poncho, whatever else you like.

Drinking water and food in the pack or under truck seat. Like they teach you in Ranger School: 2 cans of tuna-in-oil at the bottom of your pack will taste like filet mignon when regular grub runs out and you're really hungry in the backwoods.

One can of inflate-a-flat and a 12 volt air compressor that works: can save a lot of time and trouble.

A plastic tarp for general use, or overnight shelter if your get stuck or broke down, or for putting tire chains on. Can also be handy when combined with sticks and rope to make a field splint on a broken limb (hopefully someone elses...). I recommend the "sportsman's space blanket" that has a silver side and a colored side: these have fiberglass reinforcements every 1/2 inch, last for years, good for keeping a child warm (and visible) if it starts raining while you're loading those heavy rounds, plus they seem to dig having it like a tent. Also nice as a picnic blanket if the misses is along on the trip. Beats sitting on wet ground. Or if you're covered in mud and sawdust, you put in on the truck seat to keep the upholstery a tad cleaner.

And always park your rig further away from the tree than it is tall. 'nuff said.


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## time warp (Apr 2, 2010)

*And always park your rig further away from the tree than it is tall. 'nuff said*

I have seen this happen to a chainsaw also. You have to make sure the area is all clear around the drop zone.
Also remember a tree on the ground can roll when being bucked or limbed. I had one roll toward me when I was cutting the limbs & it was a close call!!!


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## Sierra99 (Apr 2, 2010)

And another thing: plastic wedges, at least 3. Six is even better. Buy ten and give some to your neighbor when he sticks his bar. Nice for fellin true, but really nice to unpinch bars. 

I prefer a 3/4 Hudson Bay axe for tapping wedges and delimbing around the cut: more nimble than a felling axe. But stand off and reach out some to keep tha razor bit far from shins and feet. 

Speaking of feet, since no one else mentioned it: steel-toed boots, safety glasses and hearing protection at all times. Cheap insurance. Cutting hard hat with built-in muffs and face screen is very nice; once you try one you'll always want it. And chaps do double duty when it's cold and wet.

Watch the tip, don't look down the bar, keep head to the side, and hold on like it's a mad rattlesnake. Cuz it is.

Best safety gear is 'tween the ears: Engage brain before saw chain.


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 2, 2010)

Sierra99 said:


> <snip>
> And always park your rig further away from the tree than it is tall. 'nuff said.



And _don't_ change your mind about which tree you will do without checking where the truck is. I wiped my mirror off the passenger side and put a huge dent in the door that way 

Harry K


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## logbutcher (Apr 2, 2010)

Sierra99 said:


> A 20 ft recovery strap is good to have: for getting your truck or someone elses out of a bog; also for securing winch line to a tree without damaging the tree.
> 
> A small pack with all usual gear for surviving: knife, fire, batteries, food, water, tarp, spare socks, wool cap, poncho, whatever else you like.
> 
> ...



Nice ideas, but *"a can of tuna"* !!! Not in my 'school' ; never called "school" anyway. Camp Elgin (Pensacola) you get nothing. Nada. Rien. Knife is it. " You will eat it ...sir ! " Another life gone long ago and far away. 

Now, all to worry about is the saws, PPE, my butt, other drivers picking their toes in Pouchipsee (how the H do you spell it you NY crew?). Easy stuff to kill you in the woodland.


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## kerf (Apr 2, 2010)

Thanks Beefie!

Two other things (sometimes it takes me a while to think of them if I dont have the saw in my hand):

1. I split by hand, for a base I use a larger round, but I dont cut the top flat, I cut it so it is a little high in the middle, the middle of the piece being split rests on the high point of the base and separates easier. It's a little easier than if the top of base was flat and a lot easier than if the top of the base was lower in middle, then the split kind of forces the pieces back together a bit.

2. When I'm felling a tree I first put downed limbs where the tree is going to fall so the tree will land on the limbs and all be off the ground, easier on the saw and the back. Dont have to sharpen as often.


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## sthomas77 (Apr 2, 2010)

One that I learned today...always bring sharpening files. Thought I'd be good just having two sharp chains...I definitely was not.


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## isaaccarlson (Apr 2, 2010)

make sure you have your saws....can't cut without them.


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## esshup (Apr 3, 2010)

BluCllrSchlr said:


> bass_on_tap said:
> 
> 
> > I've got a Mingo Marker
> ...


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 4, 2010)

I don't mark the whole log. Usually one has to make several adjustments as the log is worked due to crooks, forks, etc. throwing all subsequent marks off guage.

Harry K


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## qweesdraw (Apr 4, 2010)

I like to buck on site and split off the trailer/truck when i get home.(off the truck).
Easier to put on the splitter than off the ground,one less time you have to handle the wood,the faster it's split the quicker it dries.
Mark


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## banshee67 (Apr 4, 2010)

Sierra99 said:


> And always park your rig further away from the tree than it is tall. 'nuff said.



someone needs to spread that around to some guys on youtube


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## Woodcutteranon (Apr 4, 2010)

Place all saws and equipment when not in use on the hood of your truck. You won't be able to leave behind, or drive over any of your saws when they are blocking your view as you try to drive out of the woods.


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## isaaccarlson (Apr 4, 2010)

qweesdraw said:


> I like to buck on site and split off the trailer/truck when i get home.(off the truck).
> Easier to put on the splitter than off the ground,one less time you have to handle the wood,the faster it's split the quicker it dries.
> Mark



I like to split it in the woods so I can get twice as much on the truck. Then I just stack it up when I get home.


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 4, 2010)

isaaccarlson said:


> I like to split it in the woods so I can get twice as much on the truck. Then I just stack it up when I get home.



Errm...you get _less_ in the same space after splitting. A search will show many threads including one where an experiment was done showing it is true.

Harry K


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## BuddhaKat (Apr 4, 2010)

spike60 said:


> Steves' chain advice is the best in this thread.
> 
> True story: A customer of mine was killed by a broken chain. Guy in his 30's with young kids. Not sure if he was skidding logs or yanking out a stump, but he was on his tractor when the chain let go, and it came up and got him in the head. Never knew what hit him. Cheap imported chain.


We had a couple of chains break last year. I use our big truck to pull logs off the deck. I make absolutely sure everyone is out of range on the chain. Unfortunately, the idiot in the truck, me, is still at risk. We pull from the front of the truck and I had this huge log that just wouldn't budge. I kept backing the truck up, trying to break the log free. _SNAP_!!! All I see is a bunch of big, brown chain coming right at me. Next thing I know, it lays down perfectly over the top of the cab. It hit the front window, but didn't even chip the glass. I did however, require a new pair of underwear.


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## BuddhaKat (Apr 4, 2010)

The hands down winner for me when I'm out in the woods cutting is my Timberjack. That thing is the biggest work saver you could ever imagine.

PPE, PPE, PPE, PPE, PPE. Wear it all. Chaps, gloves, brain bucket with face shield, safety glasses, and steel toed boots. My boots are Kevlar lined as well.


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## banshee67 (Apr 4, 2010)

turnkey4099 said:


> Errm...you get _less_ in the same space after splitting. A search will show many threads including one where an experiment was done showing it is true.
> 
> Harry K



i think it depends on how you stack it
if you are stacking rounds, all of about the same diameter, there is no way you could fit more volume of wood in a given dimension with all of them being unsplit rounds, now maybe if you had some smaller rounds to fill the gaps in between it could take a little more wood, but how in the world could it be as much wood as split pieces that you can strategically arrange to fill every gap in the space?
when i load my trailer up with rounds, then bring them up and split them, it wouldnt fill that trailer up again, i know that for a fact, i end up having to add some more pieces to it to make it a cord, versus splitting it before loading it as to strategically fill each and every bit of space. i dont care how many experiments have been done, its just not logical and makes no sense. smaller pieces of anything will fill a given volume much better.
the only argument i can see being able to fit more wood in rounds form is that once you split them, you can never get them back together as right as they were before they were split (one solid round).. but at the same time, any benefit gained from the solid round having no air space that the 4 split p[eices might have is lost because of the amount of air space between rounds when stacked. i would have to say for the most wood possible, a combo of rounds and split pieces would have to be used, the rounds being the densest to take up the big spaces, then all the air space packed tightly with split pieces, but that in itself is a nightmare . i prefer to split the wood, and arrange each piece like a puzzle on the trailer if im really tryin to bring home as much as possible


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## pickwood (Apr 4, 2010)

Some tips have been mentioned- Use fuel stabililizer, use high octane fuel, keep chains razor sharp and use peaveys with or without log stand.


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## Beefie (Apr 4, 2010)

opcorn:opcorn:

Here we go again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Beefie


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## banshee67 (Apr 4, 2010)

Beefie said:


> opcorn:opcorn:
> 
> Here we go again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Beefie



hope i didnt spark up an old debate! lol

i still stick by what ive experienced, if i load my trailer with rounds totally filled, over the top, stacked tight, then go home and split them and reload them tight, it takes up less space.


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## rtrsam (Apr 4, 2010)

This is more an exercise in trying to attach pictures so they show up in the thread, but it's perhaps somewhat germane to the discussion of how much wood "fluffs up" when split...

With two mauls on top of the partial split round to show diameter (about 48").


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## rtrsam (Apr 4, 2010)

Hurray! I put up a picture that shows in the post! Here are a couple more. again, objective is to show ho much the wood fluffs up when split...











Three rounds lke this filled the bed of a short bed 1/2 ton pickup level full, four rows of wood (4 1/2 rows of wood, two rounds cut 16" long, one round cut about 12" long). I figure it'll stack to about 1/2 cord.

By the way, call me old fashioned, but I did all the splitting with the old wood handled 8 lb maul, not the Fiskars.


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## ryan_marine (Apr 4, 2010)

rtrsam said:


> Hurray! I put up a picture that shows in the post! Here are a couple more. again, objective is to show ho much the wood fluffs up when split...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I can make it easier with out a picture. Measure the round before split i.e. the distance around the outside. Then do it again after split. When cutting wood to get the most on your truck put the smaller pieces that don't need split in the areas with space. If you want to try it stack you truck with rounds. Take them where ever you want to split them. After spliting reload them. You will ALWAYS get more on un split.

Ray


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## BuddhaKat (Apr 4, 2010)

banshee67 said:


> hope i didnt spark up an old debate! lol
> 
> i still stick by what ive experienced, if i load my trailer with rounds totally filled, over the top, stacked tight, then go home and split them and reload them tight, it takes up less space.


the way I see it, if I load my truck with rounds totally filled, over the top, stacked tight, then go home and split them and reload them tight, it's still a hellofalot of work.


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## banshee67 (Apr 5, 2010)

of course the wood "fluffs up" when u split a round up, you can never put the pieces of the puzzle back together as tight as nature did before it was split, BUT considering the bed of trucks and trailers are not oval or cylindrical , how do you fill all the wasted space?the best way to fill a square space is not with circles. if the wood is split, looking at the bottom or top profile it can be triangular, square, rectangular, etc, many different multi sided all that can be used to stack every bit of space which would otherwise be wasted. although obviously, technically. the best way to use the space the most efficiently would be to use a combo of rounds and split pieces to fill every last bit you can, even using small rounds to fill the voids, you still arnt taking advantage of the multi-shaped split pieces ability to fill the voids like puzzle pieces, but then again i never fill a trailer with split and unsplit wood togeher, its one or the other.. so... imgona go eat some ice cream and watch axemen, hope jimmy pulls some logs! lol


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## deerlakejens (Apr 5, 2010)

I've hauled lots of wood in my truck and trailer and have to say I've never measured the difference between rounds and split but would have to side with the rounds being the most space efficient. It doesn't take much of an effort to tightly stack rounds when you have a variety of diameters to work with.


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 5, 2010)

Beefie said:


> opcorn:opcorn:
> 
> Here we go again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Beefie



No matter what one says or shows (see the experiment thread) people will still believe that. The evidence is out there, discussing it will do nothing.

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 5, 2010)

banshee67 said:


> of course the wood "fluffs up" when u split a round up, you can never put the pieces of the puzzle back together as tight as nature did before it was split, BUT considering the bed of trucks and trailers are not oval or cylindrical , how do you fill all the wasted space?the best way to fill a square space is not with circles. if the wood is split, looking at the bottom or top profile it can be triangular, square, rectangular, etc, many different multi sided all that can be used to stack every bit of space which would otherwise be wasted. although obviously, technically. the best way to use the space the most efficiently would be to use a combo of rounds and split pieces to fill every last bit you can, even using small rounds to fill the voids, you still arnt taking advantage of the multi-shaped split pieces ability to fill the voids like puzzle pieces, but then again i never fill a trailer with split and unsplit wood togeher, its one or the other.. so... imgona go eat some ice cream and watch axemen, hope jimmy pulls some logs! lol



It is surprising after loading rounds, even big ones, how dinky of a piece you can fit into what looks like a big hole. Most of those holes won't take anything over about kindling size. Of course if one would take the time to 'custom split-to-fit'...

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 5, 2010)

banshee67 said:


> hope i didnt spark up an old debate! lol
> 
> i still stick by what ive experienced, if i load my trailer with rounds totally filled, over the top, stacked tight, then go home and split them and reload them tight, it takes up less space.



Well, here is a simple experiment you can do while watching TV. Take a carrot, slice rounds off it, fit them into a box top. Dump out, cut in half, quarters or whatever and try to fit them back into the box top. It can be done but only if you match them back up into the original rounds.

Harry K


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## gwiley (Apr 5, 2010)

There are really a few concerns about whether to split before or after transporting the wood. I prefer to split once the rounds/logs are right next to my wood pile because it amounts to less handling.

The fact is that I can load the truck beyond safe hauling weight with just rounds, whether I can get more into the truck with splits isn't really relevant because I can already reach the 1 ton (really over that) carrying capacity with logs.

Lately I haven't even been cutting rounds until the logs are next to the wood pile. It is a TON less work to just forklift a 12' log than to lug 6-8 rounds or the pile of splits that would result.


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## BluCllrSchlr (Apr 5, 2010)

Just saw this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pWD0DXrMtw&feature=related

I can't understand a thing he's saying (my fault, not his) but it's plain enough what he's talking about. I've thought about making this exact thing using some rare earth magnets and a fiberglass driveway marker (to mark the driveway when it's covered in snow).

Anyone from Bailey's reading this? Anyone know where to get this in the US or will I have to make one myself?


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## BigE (Apr 5, 2010)

BluCllrSchlr said:


> Just saw this:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pWD0DXrMtw&feature=related
> I can't understand a thing he's saying (my fault, not his) but it's plain enough what he's talking about. I've thought about making this exact thing using some rare earth magnets and a fiberglass driveway marker (to mark the driveway when it's covered in snow).



I tried that approach once using epoxy and a dowel instead of a piece of fiberglass. It worked OK for a while, but then I stepped on the dowel and broke it. If you try cutting too much with the dowel on, the magnet slips down into the chain, so I'd go through and mark all my cuts, then come back and do the real cutting with the dowel off. 

I now use the Mingo Marker and it works pretty good.

Before I got the Mingo Marker, I took a piece of nylon rope and put wire ties on it every 16". I put a hook on the end and used a can of spray paint for basically the same effect. But, the Mingo Marker works better and is faster.


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## DJ4wd (Apr 5, 2010)

Heres a cool little trick

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWb_a5mIX88&feature=related


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 6, 2010)

gwiley said:


> There are really a few concerns about whether to split before or after transporting the wood. I prefer to split once the rounds/logs are right next to my wood pile because it amounts to less handling.
> 
> The fact is that I can load the truck beyond safe hauling weight with just rounds, whether I can get more into the truck with splits isn't really relevant because I can already reach the 1 ton (really over that) carrying capacity with logs.
> 
> Lately I haven't even been cutting rounds until the logs are next to the wood pile. It is a TON less work to just forklift a 12' log than to lug 6-8 rounds or the pile of splits that would result.



Same here. I haul the biggest pieces I can get on the truck and then try to split them as I unload.

Tip: *PICKAROON*! I delayed buying one for years due to the cost. First time I used it I kicked my fundament for waiting and now you would have to pry it out of my cold, dead hands.

I can unload half the the bed of my PU without ever crawling up into it. Doesn't even count the 'walk along rolling a round with it' vice stooping over manually rolling one.

Harry K


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## BluCllrSchlr (Apr 6, 2010)

Harry, I second what you said on the pickaroon. I would never have guessed how much I use it. I can't take credit for buying it, my grandfather had it. I painted the head of it fluorescent chartreuse after I left it behind once. That didn't stop me from leaving it behind once more, but it was there when I went back.


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## dimer11 (Apr 7, 2010)

My biggest tip would be to always have a cell phone on you... i use an old one (last years model before i upgraded my plan) on me when i'm cutting. tho it don't work or get reception i can still dial 911 if me or one of my buddies get hurt


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## JEA (Apr 7, 2010)

*Pickaroon*

Great idea about the pickaroon for unloading wood out of a truck. For those of you with toppers on your truck box, which results in difficulty reaching items ahead of the wheel wells, my dad came up with something similar. It is a 1" square piece of oak about 40 inches long with a 4" bolt attached to one end. He also has placed 2 1-1/4" hex bolts, one on each side of the long bolt (but from the other way), to reinforce the wood and keep it from splitting when hooking and pulling a heavy item from the front of the box. Leave it in your truck all the time and I guarantee it will become the first thing you reach for when you need to get something that is near the truck cab. Sure beats having to crawl up into the box to retrieve that chainsaw that has slid forward during transport.


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## Bowsaw Outlaw (Apr 8, 2010)

*My $.02...*

-I keep a small plastic or wood felling wedge in my back pocket for cutting huge trunk rounds on the ground, get about half way through your cut and slam the wedge in the top and finish without pinching the bar.

-I keep a big wire brush with me to clean off large amounts of dirt and rocks that might accumulate on the tree if I cut where land has been cleared by Dozers or other heavy machines. Saves chains and bars.

-Paint you tools you take to the field a bright color. I like to paint mine blaze orange because it doesn't blend with anything on the ground here and is easy to spot. I hate loosing things like wedges, files, bar tools, ect....

-I like to carry a large chain with me just incase I need to manipulate the tree in some way on the ground I can use my truck to do so.

-"CUT SAFE!" If something doesn't feel right in your gut don't do it.


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## nikocker (Apr 8, 2010)

*One tip my Dad taught me. . .*

When you get tired . . . QUIT! Most accidents happen when people are fatigued - and besides, firewood will always be there tomorrow.


Al


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## Wife'nHubby (Apr 8, 2010)

DJ4wd said:


> Heres a cool little trick
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWb_a5mIX88&feature=related




I found the website for that item and did a Babel Fish translation from the German but for some reason can't get the url to post correctly here. Don't know how safe it is to use.

Shari


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## angelo c (Apr 9, 2010)

Chocks, 
I try to cut a few out of the Hinge of the first tree cut to stop the log from rolling either way while bucking, especially if you are on any kind of incline. 
Also I keep an old paint brush with me when I cut to clean off all the saw dust from the filter and the flippy caps.

I use an old syrup squeeze bottle to pour the bar oil in to the saw as it cuts down on over flow.

A


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## stevohut (Apr 9, 2010)

*measuring sticks*



BluCllrSchlr said:


> Just saw this:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pWD0DXrMtw&feature=related
> 
> I can't understand a thing he's saying (my fault, not his) but it's plain enough what he's talking about. I've thought about making this exact thing using some rare earth magnets and a fiberglass driveway marker (to mark the driveway when it's covered in snow).
> ...



Bailey's sells a version it's called "Quickstix" You can find it on the website in with the measuring accesories. I copied the idea and made my own for about $5


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## stevohut (Apr 9, 2010)

*Being safe in the bush*

The best tip I can give and it took some time for me to realize this. Respect the tree because it has a mind of its own. I've been caught off guard a couple times just being a rookie and all. I don't take safety for granted anymore, I treat every tree like it's out to kill me before it hits the ground. I attempted to cut a tree way to big for my skill. It was 28" OD, dead and had many takeoff branches. I messed up my cuts and the tree caught me off gaurd and fell the wrong way. When the tree started to fall it pinched my saw. I said screw it and I ran as the tree fell on top off my saw. I had to go home and get my car jack to lift the tree off my saw. Busted it up real good, but I fixed it and learned a valuable lesson. If you go into my profile pics you can see the tree laying on my saw.

Steve


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 9, 2010)

stevohut said:


> Bailey's sells a version it's called "Quickstix" You can find it on the website in with the measuring accesories. I copied the idea and made my own for about $5



Don't buy the Bailey's! It is so fragile that I broke two of the rods just by setting the saw down.

How did you build yours? I'd like to thread some iron rod to fit the Bailey's extended bar nuts. Haven't checked to see what size rod I need or what the thread size is.

I have used homemade ones for years made from 3/4" x 1/8" bar stock bent on one end and drilled to fit the bar nuts on a Poulan, a Johnyred and (currently) a Husky but those all had a flush surface to bolt to. the Stihls all are indented and I can't fit the homemade one in there. That is a very workable one except that it gets in the way when limbing and is too much trouble to install/remove 

Harry K


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## rtrsam (Apr 9, 2010)

stevohut said:


> The best tip I can give and it took some time for me to realize this. Respect the tree because it has a mind of its own. I've been caught off guard a couple times just being a rookie and all. I don't take safety for granted anymore, I treat every tree like it's out to kill me before it hits the ground. I attempted to cut a tree way to big for my skill. It was 28" OD, dead and had many takeoff branches. I messed up my cuts and the tree caught me off gaurd and fell the wrong way. When the tree started to fall it pinched my saw. I said screw it and I ran as the tree fell on top off my saw. I had to go home and get my car jack to lift the tree off my saw. Busted it up real good, but I fixed it and learned a valuable lesson. If you go into my profile pics you can see the tree laying on my saw.
> 
> Steve



I was falling a big tanoak one time on a crazy steep sideslope; even with caulk boots it was tough to keep footing. As it turns out I was using a brand new (!just out of the box that morning!) Stihl 066. I was working the back cut, the tree started to go, I pulled on the saw...stuck. My feet started sliding downhill...I yanked the saw one more time, still stuck.

Adios. I left the saw and wento to safety. As the tree rotated off the stump, the saw ell out of the back cut and went downhill, followed a second later by the butt of the tree.

Saw was not harmed in the least, nor was I. If the saw had been destroyed, it would have been more cost effective to my employer than a sprained ankle with Doctor visit and worker's comp claim. It turned out okay all around though.


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## stevohut (Apr 9, 2010)

*how i built mine*



turnkey4099 said:


> Don't buy the Bailey's! It is so fragile that I broke two of the rods just by setting the saw down.
> 
> How did you build yours? I'd like to thread some iron rod to fit the Bailey's extended bar nuts. Haven't checked to see what size rod I need or what the thread size is.
> 
> ...



what I did was welded a coupler nut to my bar nut, it's an 8mm thread. Then I fabbed a 1/8" steel plate bracket about 4" long with a hole drilled in each end. One end bolts the plate to the coupler nut welded on the bar nut which allows for swiveling the plate in different positions. Then I took a 3/8" lag screw stuck it through the bottom hole in the plate, welded it to the plate. Got some 1/2" wood dowl drilled it at the end so i could thread it on to the welded lag screw. This way you can make different lengths and swap them out easy. And the plate swivels to get the stick down closer to the wood. It's easy to remove when not needed.

Steve


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## BarkBuster20 (Apr 24, 2010)

This tip may not work out for everyone, depending on the cutting situation, but here is what i do. In the winter and spring months i fall and limb all the trees i am going to cut into firewood, that way they are waiting to be bucked up, and seasoning in case it takes till mid summer to get around to it (It never lays that long). After that i will go a long and mark off 16 inch rounds, and cut the trees up on another day, I then wait the roads have dried up (june) to come in and haul the wood out.

Also if your not hauling your wood out the day you cut it, its a good idea to pile it up because in the spring time under brush will cover it up.


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## Beefie (Apr 24, 2010)

stevohut said:


> what I did was welded a coupler nut to my bar nut, it's an 8mm thread. Then I fabbed a 1/8" steel plate bracket about 4" long with a hole drilled in each end. One end bolts the plate to the coupler nut welded on the bar nut which allows for swiveling the plate in different positions. Then I took a 3/8" lag screw stuck it through the bottom hole in the plate, welded it to the plate. Got some 1/2" wood dowl drilled it at the end so i could thread it on to the welded lag screw. This way you can make different lengths and swap them out easy. And the plate swivels to get the stick down closer to the wood. It's easy to remove when not needed.
> 
> Steve



Got any pics of this device.

Beefie


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## giXXer (Apr 24, 2010)

I read the previous pages and cannot believe I didn't see it...BUG SPRAY! Don't need it every time, but I have cut a day short due to my blood supply running low from the swarms of stupid mosquitos and deer flies.

Under the rear seat in my truck I have a small compartment that you will always find a few items that have saved my butt over and over. Lg. leatherman, flashlight, assortment of zip-ties, small roll of small gauge wire, logger's first aid kit, extra saw scrench, 1 bottle stihl 2-stroke oil, roll of duct tape and electrical tape, nylon cam-buckle strap, couple of pairs of the pink ear plugs (when I go to the range I never forget the guns, but the ear plugs...) new pair of work gloves, of course the bug spray, and also important, several new clean white cotton shop towels. Sounds like a lot of junk, but everything packs up pretty neatly in a small space. There are a few other non-related items, like an extra plow remote, etc., certainly not everyday use items, but when you are in a bind they can be quite helpful.

I also pack a lot of the items that have been mentioned previously, which a majority of have come from suggestions on this site. I typically bring the same gear with me everytime I cut so I try to clean and pack everything after cutting so it's ready to go for the next time. This isn't always practical so I will at least check over everything the night before I plan to go into the woods to make sure everything is ready to go. Since time is always short on the day of cutting I've found that being prepared saves a few minutes here and a few minutes there which adds up to a much more productive day in the woods. I'm also much more calm, not running around like a chicken with it's head cut off, making 20 trips back and forth to the truck, worrying if I'm forgetting something. :monkey:


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## Steve NW WI (Dec 28, 2011)

Thought I'd drag this handy thread out of cold storage.

Today's handy tip: If you have dogs, the 40-50# dog food bags are plenty stout to hold all those pieces of splitter trash to use for kindling. When they're empty, use em for a container for all the bark and dirt that winds up by the stove. 

(If ya have one of them little yipper dogs and buy 5# bags of gourmet food, PM me and I'll send ya a bag or two :hmm3grin2orange


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## openloop (Dec 28, 2011)

View attachment 213779


Given a proper application of this stuff any leather boot will become as watertight as a frogs ass.


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## Woodomaker (Dec 28, 2011)

I welded a toothed angle iron to the top edge of my tractor bucket and pick logs up end ways.
ON LEVEL ground.
Keep at waist high to cut.....use front bucket to scoop and raise same to height of splitter. Toss final product into trailer= no bending over.


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## jhoff310 (Dec 28, 2011)

For baileys quick sticks I made my own. I got a piece of all thread and a long nut. Painted it bright purple with another nut JB welded on the other end to prevent it from vibrating off..works like a dream.

I also have a set of railroad tie tongs, they have longer handles than traditional log tongs. Great for moving the heavy rounds...my buddy and I can move 3' rounds with ease 
Timber Tongs | Timber Nips | Track Tools | Railway Tools | Railway Track Equipment | Rail Maintenance| Track Tools


Jeff


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## darkbyrd (Dec 28, 2011)

I made this for marking logs. Cheap and easy to use, and if it breaks, you can make another for a buck.

[video=youtube;qrPyt5STtFw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrPyt5STtFw[/video]

I put a piece of black tape on the end opposite the slit where the chalk comes out to help line up the next mark.


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## T0RN4D0 (Feb 11, 2013)

BarkBuster20 said:


> This tip may not work out for everyone, depending on the cutting situation, but here is what i do. In the winter and spring months i fall and limb all the trees i am going to cut into firewood, that way they are waiting to be bucked up, and seasoning in case it takes till mid summer to get around to it (It never lays that long). After that i will go a long and mark off 16 inch rounds, and cut the trees up on another day, I then wait the roads have dried up (june) to come in and haul the wood out.
> 
> Also if your not hauling your wood out the day you cut it, its a good idea to pile it up because in the spring time under brush will cover it up.




I go by the rule that months containing the letter R are good for felling. :] There is a fast firewood trick tho, that is felling in the summer months and leaving it on the ground with all the branches (leaves) on, the sun sucks out the moisture faster that way. Works on birch, can't fast dry oak like that :msp_sleep:


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## woodchuck357 (Feb 12, 2013)

*Use a fire ax for splitting*



turnkey4099 said:


> Same here. I haul the biggest pieces I can get on the truck and then try to split them as I unload.
> 
> Tip: *PICKAROON*! I delayed buying one for years due to the cost. First time I used it I kicked my fundament for waiting and now you would have to pry it out of my cold, dead hands.
> 
> ...



It is heavy enough to split like a maul, has a built in pick, and you get both tools in one handle.


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