# Seeking advice regarding thinning chainsaw



## Clark10 (Dec 4, 2016)

Hello folks,

I've been here for a while on the forums reading and enjoying the community over the years but this is my first real post.

I have done my research and think I know what I would like to purchase. However, I would like to poll my helpful forum friends here at ArboristSite to see if I may have missed some good options. So, if you are willing please offer up any suggestions you have for a new saw purchase. 

Here is some info:

Working 40+ hours a month.
Mainly thinning Doug Fir with diameter of 6"-20"

Rarely cut anything over 24"
NW Oregon (rain, 200'-1000' elevation, more rain)

For all intents and purposes this will be my only saw

I'm over 45 years old and in fair condition
Considerations:

Willing to purchase a "Pro" quality saw that can be repaired and maintained

I'm not a rank beginner (I've been lucky and have learned from my mistakes) and have done rebuilds and repairs. However, I would rather spend time working in the woods instead of doing mods and repairs.
Have a Rancher 55 that is 15 plus years old right now but the new saw will essentially be my only saw
I would be fine with an "AutoTune" or "M-Tronic" technology, or not

I have tried the Husqvarna and Stihl dealers and associated service departments in my area over the years and none stand above the others
Willing to buy from web store or folks on ArboristSite 
I have found that I like the feel and performance of the Husqvarna products but I'm willing to try other brands
There you have it. Thanks in advance for all your suggestions.


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## cus_deluxe (Dec 4, 2016)

I think your situation calls for a 50cc class saw, 60ccs would get it done a little quicker. Id say find a nice 357xp or a 550xp. Ive run a lightly modded ms261 as well and that was a very impressive saw for its size. Hard to go wrong with a modern 50cc saw


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## Clark10 (Dec 4, 2016)

Thanks for the reply and advice cus_deluxe. Much appreciated.


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## svk (Dec 4, 2016)

If most of the wood is going to by under 16" then 50cc for sure. Husky 550XP or 261 Stihl. If you are going to be doing a lot of cutting of 16-20" stuff then 60 cc so 562 or 555 Husky or Makita 61cc.


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## Full Chisel (Dec 4, 2016)

If you are getting into 20" trees occasionally a 60cc would be a better choice. Husky 562 and Stihl 362 are the current top of the heap "pro grade" saws. An 18" and 24" bar would pretty well cover the bases.


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## 1Alpha1 (Dec 4, 2016)

Stihl MS-261 C-M.


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## Big Block (Dec 5, 2016)

Dolmar 5105


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## Cycledude (Dec 5, 2016)

For the work you describe Husqvarna 562 xp with a 20" bar would be my choice.


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## 7sleeper (Dec 5, 2016)

Since the wood mentioned is mainly fir trees I would not worry one second about a 50cc saw. What I am suprised about is that you are not using your Rancher 55. It would be an ideal tool for your requirements. Personally I would simply replace the carb membranes and run it with a sharp chain and a max. 18 inch bar. 

If it needs to be a new 50-60cc saw I would consider the Husqvarna 545/555/550/562 or the Jonsered(we have a great dealer here) aquivalent, Dolmar 5105, Echo 590 (just a little muffler mod to run great, by far the best buy out there at the moment!), Stihl 271/291/261 or Hitachi CS51EAP.

7


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## Ryan'smilling (Dec 5, 2016)

I think the model numbers that folks have recommended pretty well cover the bases. Personally, I'd be looking hard at a Dolmar 5105 or 6100, a Stihl 261, a Husky 550, or a Jonsered 2260. 

I think you should ideally run a 60cc and a 50cc to get a feel for each. There will be a big difference in weight and power. In fir, I think a 50cc will handle everything you need to do. It will be much less fatiguing to use for longer time periods. The 60cc, though will be a good amount faster in the larger wood you mention. 

Of course, you could alternatively go buy a Dolmar 421 (lightweight zippy little 42cc saw that doesn't cost much) and a 60cc Dolmar or Echo. You'll spend a little more than one 60cc pro saw from Husky or Stihl, but you'll have a backup saw and two saws that are each better suited to the different jobs you want to do. That's what I'd do personally. If you're thinning for 40 hours a month, it's only a matter of time before one saw isn't enough. A pinched bar, wrecked chain, lost bar nuts, whatever, can stop you cold if you don't have a backup.


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## merc_man (Dec 5, 2016)

Id try a 60 cc class dolmar or echo. Echo would be cheaspest way to go plus five year waranty.

Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk


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## big hank (Dec 5, 2016)

Use the lightest saw you can get away with. I.e. around 50cc -60cc.

Have a backup saw for when you anger the timber Gods.

The ease of an internal clutch when changing a sprocket is greatly understated by the folks on AS.

My recommendation would be to buy a new 261 or 362. Or maybe a good used 260/361, if you are dead set on a saw. However, a brush cutter is undeniably more efficient in the 0"-6" range. There's a reason the Mexicans use them


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## earlthegoat2 (Dec 5, 2016)

I just acquired a Husky 346xp w/ 18" bar and can say I am impressed. I am a Stihl guy from way back and have never really given pro Huskys a fair shake. I was turned off to Huskys because of the 450 and 455. The 346 is great though. I would suggest a 550xp myself because I think they are more common than the 346 if you want a Husky that it. My 361 Stihl w/ 20" bar is very nice as well and I do a lot of what you would be doing. Thinning Southern pine on my property. It is a little denser and heavier than Doug Fir but I do believe it cuts near the same.


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## Ryan'smilling (Dec 5, 2016)

big hank said:


> Use the lightest saw you can get away with. I.e. around 50cc -60cc.
> 
> Have a backup saw for when you anger the timber Gods.
> 
> ...



Brush saws are great tools. The OP did say he's primarily going to be working in 6"-20" material, though. I think that's chainsaw territory for sure.


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## Clark10 (Dec 5, 2016)

Thanks everyone for the thoughtful and helpful replies. Keep them coming if you have things to add or would like to second anyones comments for emphasis. 
I will still have the 55 around as a second saw. Out of the saws mentioned which do you all think currently has the best quality build and maintenance record overall? When I purchase tools I don't hesitate to spend the money on quality as I know one usually gets what they pay for. after all, I hope to have this saw for many years to come.

Thanks again for your help.


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## Ryan'smilling (Dec 5, 2016)

The autotune huskies are supposed to be all figured out. That is to say that they had serval issues in the first few years. Apparently all better now, but i suppose that still detracts from "overall service record". Personally, it wouldn't keep me from buying one (the price tag does, though). 

Stihl has had some issues with their m-tronic also, but I've mostly heard about it in the 661. 

Build quality is pretty similar across the board. You're talking about pro quality saws built for commerical duty by the biggest makers of O P E (if you don't put a space between the letters, AS censors it). They're all magnesium split case saws. 

Honestly if you want service record and reliability, I'd be fairly inclined towards the Echo 590/600/620 or the Dolmar 5105 or 6100 (probably the 5105, though because it's a traditional two stroke, not strato charged). To me, having a manual carb seems more bulletproof. Some (well mostly just one guy) say the Echo stuff seems cheap and poorly built, but their equipment gets run hard and put away wet by landscaping crews all over the world every day. They know a thing or two about making tough stuff.


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## jakethesnake (Dec 5, 2016)

550 is way in front on 50cc saws buy it it's light and nasty I've never ran one but they'll eat a 346 ass I have a 346 if you could find a gently used 346 I'd recommend it husqy owns 50cc saws hands down lighter more nimble that's what I'd buy 50 cc is plenty of saw for fir no doubt 60cc will get heavy lugging around when honestly you don't need the extra power


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## 7sleeper (Dec 5, 2016)

What clearly must be stated is the contrary to the generall spreaded opinion, the differences between the top models of the different brands is rather minor and definately nothing a hobby firewooder really has to worry about! Correct sharpening techniques, correct maintenance, correct cutting techniques, etc. are by far superiorer to any here mentioned technical differences!

7


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## Big Block (Dec 5, 2016)

jakethesnake said:


> 550 is way in front on 50cc saws buy it it's light and nasty I've never ran one but they'll eat a 346 ass I have a 346 if you could find a gently used 346 I'd recommend it husqy owns 50cc saws hands down lighter more nimble that's what I'd buy 50 cc is plenty of saw for fir no doubt 60cc will get heavy lugging around when honestly you don't need the extra power



I don't know about that. Brad has a video of a 346 ne stock handing a stock 550 it's ass in a paper bag


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## Ozhoo (Dec 5, 2016)

A man can derive a lot of pleasure from a 90cc saw wearing a 20" bar. Just sayin'


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## jakethesnake (Dec 5, 2016)

Big Block said:


> I don't know about that. Brad has a video of a 346 ne stock handing a stock 550 it's ass in a paper bag


I've also seen videos the exact opposite .... Operator can have quite an influence. My choice I'd take a 346 also no doubt however they aren't made anymore 346 is a nasty cuss I have one


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## jakethesnake (Dec 5, 2016)

Agree the nastiest stock saw available new is the 550xp? All I'm getting at is that's what you can go to the store and buy right now I don't own a 550 as I have a 346


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## slowp (Dec 5, 2016)

What kind of thinning? Commercial--trees going down the road to a mill? 

I live north of you in Warshington where we grow trees quite well. I'm retired but worked out in the woods overseeing logging contracts where thinning was pretty much all that was done because it was on National Forest where that's all they want to do. Here's what the timber fallers run and I'm surprised you haven't talked to any of those guys. Around here, Stihl is the favorite because there are two good dealers in the area. The most common set up was a 460 with a 32" bar and yes, they were cutting the sizes you mentioned. You want a long bar because you'll probably be on steep ground, and a long bar allows you to work from one side, stay away from the tree, and not have to bend over if bucking and limbing are part of the deal. You want a powerful saw in case you run into an old snag that has to come down for safety purposes or you need a good spurt of power. According to our local expert, second growth is more hazardous to cut because you are spending more time at the stump, so you'll want a fast saw to lessen that time. 

Got your caulks? 

It is a whole different game out here. I'm surprised you didn't post this on the Forestry and Logging forum.


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## slowp (Dec 5, 2016)

This is what a good commercial thinning falling job looks like. This was felled using the saws described above. I guess it would be a 461 now?


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## jakethesnake (Dec 5, 2016)

slowp said:


> This is what a good commercial thinning falling job looks like. This was felled using the saws described above. I guess it would be a 461 now?
> 
> View attachment 541466


What do they use those smallish trees for?


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## Big Block (Dec 5, 2016)

jakethesnake said:


> I've also seen videos the exact opposite .... Operator can have quite an influence. My choice I'd take a 346 also no doubt however they aren't made anymore 346 is a nasty cuss I have one



You make a good point about operator. Also the fact that a 550 is still available new


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## slowp (Dec 5, 2016)

jakethesnake said:


> What do they use those smallish trees for?



Lumber. That stand of trees averaged around 18" DBH. That's the prime size for the lumber mills in our area. I'm thinking anything over 27" for our immediate area, gets docked or what we call paper bucked. The machinery is made for second and third growth trees.


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## slowp (Dec 5, 2016)

Here's one of our local fallers in action on flat ground. This is another thinning. I think they needed more swing room on the landing. Good job of decking!


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## jakethesnake (Dec 5, 2016)

slowp said:


> Lumber. That stand of trees averaged around 18" DBH. That's the prime size for the lumber mills in our area. I'm thinking anything over 27" for our immediate area, gets docked or what we call paper bucked. The machinery is made for second and third growth trees.


Looks like that fella knew what he wanted to do The original picture made those 18s look like 8x8s That's what I was askin what those "twigs" would be for


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## slowp (Dec 5, 2016)

I am also thinking that those twigs are around 50 years old.


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## Big Block (Dec 6, 2016)

Potato


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## 7sleeper (Dec 6, 2016)

Well over here I don't know of a pro who would ever think of using a 460 on 18inch soft wood. And we have pretty steep areas too. In former days the 70cc class was definately top of the line because the 60cc class was hardly existent, but since the revival with the introduction of the 361 and all the hype going on around it no one would use a 70cc anymore and to be honest most pros over here would even prefer a 50cc saw fro that type of wood. With the modern 60cc class everyone is using it for even in larger hard wood. And over here no one believes that a long bar will do anything to replace proper cutting techniques. 

7


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## northmanlogging (Dec 6, 2016)

Clark10 said:


> Hello folks,
> 
> I've been here for a while on the forums reading and enjoying the community over the years but this is my first real post.
> 
> ...



Late to the party as usual, and didn't read anything but this post... 

Yer cutting small timber, but if yer falling timber don't skimp on power, a few extra ponies can save your neck/life.

But I wouldn't bother with anything less then a 60cc saw stihl 362, or 441 would be about perfect, not sure on Husky numbers. 

Get a saw that can pull a 25-28" bar with authority, and has the option of large falling dogs and a full or 3/4 wrap handle bar.

Not sure what yer up to, but if you wan't some decent production get the biggest saw you can drag around all day, ****ing around with 50cc saws and whittling at the stump isn't doing anyone any good, yes they will do it, but if yer getting paid get the wood on the ground, you can carve stumps later after you retire.


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## northmanlogging (Dec 6, 2016)

Also I like how folks assume that Oregon Fir is the same as fir everywhere else... 

PNW fir is harder then many Maple species, this isn't some balsam fir or pine, this stuff is tough and hard.

Technically its a mutant pine tree, not even a true fir... anyway, get a big saw and get some work done.


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## 7sleeper (Dec 6, 2016)

*I'm over 45 years old and in fair condition*
45 and in *fair *condition and he is supposed to carry a 70cc saw with 28 inch bar the whole day? Sorry but to be honest with that type of equipment I doubt he will last the first morning. 

7


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## Big Block (Dec 6, 2016)

I still think a 5105 is the way to go 3.9 hp befor mods! I think Brad got something like a 40% gain in speed with a MM and a pro chain. That's some balls right there.


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## Ryan'smilling (Dec 6, 2016)

7sleeper said:


> *I'm over 45 years old and in fair condition*
> 45 and in *fair *condition and he is supposed to carry a 70cc saw with 28 inch bar the whole day? Sorry but to be honest with that type of equipment I doubt he will last the first morning.
> 
> 7



I'm not 45 yet, but a 70cc saw with a reduced weight bar isn't really a very heavy combination. 

It is interesting that the guys from the same area as the OP both made very similar recommendations. Also, those guys both have timber experience... Something to think about anyway


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## svk (Dec 6, 2016)

Big Block said:


> I still think a 5105 is the way to go 3.9 hp befor mods! I think Brad got something like a 40% gain in speed with a MM and a pro chain. That's some balls right there.


What is the dry weight on that saw?


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## M.R. (Dec 6, 2016)

A few here have the OP at 45 with one foot
in the grave already..... let say it's a individual
thing.... w/ a lot of common sense earned or
gained... some have recommended the Dolmar
6000 series... same power head weight as the 7900
series... that's what it's about!!! power head to weight
ratios. .. bar length will save on the arms, shoulders
& back for sure! Lot of folk mouthing / repeatedly what
they've heard/read without truly the experience or making
a living with a saw.... 
The old saw...the ones ( or some of you would you pick up,
Make one think/have dead babies) enough throttle time
on one you'd for danged sure learn to let the saw do the work, instead of the saw working you. ;-)


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## Big Block (Dec 6, 2016)

svk said:


> What is the dry weight on that saw?



It looks like 11.9 lbs


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## Ryan'smilling (Dec 6, 2016)

M.R. said:


> A few here have the OP at 45 with one foot
> in the grave already..... let say it's a individual
> thing.... w/ a lot of common sense earned or
> gained... some have recommended the Dolmar
> ...




I'm not 100% sure what your recommendation is here. Just wanted clarify that I haven't seen anyone recommend the Dolmar 6400, which is heavy for a 60cc saw. I have seen a recommendation of the 6100, which I'd a new model and more inline with 60cc saws.


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## svk (Dec 6, 2016)

Ryan'smilling said:


> I'm not 100% sure what your recommendation is here. Just wanted clarify that I haven't seen anyone recommend the Dolmar 6400, which is heavy for a 60cc saw. I have seen a recommendation of the 6100, which I'd a new model and more inline with 60cc saws.


With the multitude of other saws in that space, I don't think anyone would recommend a 6400 for anything other than a donor to convert to 7900 if the price was right.


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## Cycledude (Dec 6, 2016)

my local Husqvarna dealer used to sell Dolmar, very few were ever sold then they started selling Husqvarna and sales skyrocketed so much that they dropped Dolmar.


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## M.R. (Dec 6, 2016)

Ryan...
I do favor the Dolmars.. Although not up on every
current saw coming out... I do have a NIB 6400 to convert
someday. .. The old Ford - Chevy thing... for me they've
been the Honda of chainsaws... I've liked & still use a
026 & 064 woods ported but... put pehaps 25% of the time
on these two as I do the Dolmars, yet the maintenance cost
Is higher.. mostly fuel lines, it seems like anytime the
price of crude went up the rubber quality in these fuel lines
went down. The only Huskys I've used regularly are a top handle (loud sob too) for climbing & a pole saw.


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## madhatte (Dec 6, 2016)

I'm also a forester in WA, and all of the crews I know use 70cc+ saws for everything. 440/460/660 Stihls are giving way to 461/661 Stihls, and the Husky guys are keeping their 372's alive and haven't switched to 576's just yet. Everybody loves the 390. Bar lengths vary from 28" to 36" with 32" being the most commmon. My primary saw at work for everything from clearing roads to cutting hazard trees on fires is a MS440 wearing a 28", though I have a 460 and a 660 available. I'm just a little guy, I need a little saw.

Also: gonna move this to F&L


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## northmanlogging (Dec 6, 2016)

7sleeper said:


> *I'm over 45 years old and in fair condition*
> 45 and in *fair *condition and he is supposed to carry a 70cc saw with 28 inch bar the whole day? Sorry but to be honest with that type of equipment I doubt he will last the first morning.
> 
> 7



Well I am 39 and have broken more bones then I care to think about am 40 poinds overweight have 2 bad shoulders arthritis in knees and hips 

And my daily use saw is a 461, cause it gets the job done.

On some jobs i drag an 066 around with a 36 or 42" bar. And its not always up to the task.

45 in fair condition is nearly a 20 yr old in these woods.

50cc saws are for trimming the rose bushes or whittling fire wood.


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## slowp (Dec 6, 2016)

On the part about running a big saw all day, some of us girls have run an old heavy Mac on a precommercial thinning crew--got paid for it and that model of saw was of similar weight to our modern day 440s and 460s. It just took a week of painful muscles and then all was well. One gets used to it or one finds another line of work.


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## Clark10 (Dec 7, 2016)

I have been working for the last few days on another project and just came back to the forums. Thank you all for the great opinions, suggestions, and sage advice.

A little more information for some of the poster's questions. I'm working for a private land owner to clean up several small reproduction plantings that are crowded as this is the first thin and they haven't been managed. Stand is mostly in the 12"-18" diameter range with 5-10% standing dead trees that are 8" more or less. I'm not doing commercial thinning on large stands that have well managed trees like the picture "slowp" posted. The standing dead and small stuff will be left within the managed area and the larger live logs will be pulled for firewood. This is a very part time job.

I appreciate the post being switched to a different forum as it provided some good insights. I now have even more to think about.  

Thanks everyone.


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## slowp (Dec 7, 2016)

Clark10 said:


> I have been working for the last few days on another project and just came back to the forums. Thank you all for the great opinions, suggestions, and sage advice.
> 
> A little more information for some of the poster's questions. I'm working for a private land owner to clean up several small reproduction plantings that are crowded as this is the first thin and they haven't been managed. Stand is mostly in the 12"-18" diameter range with 5-10% standing dead trees that are 8" more or less. I'm not doing commercial thinning on large stands that have well managed trees like the picture "slowp" posted. The standing dead and small stuff will be left within the managed area and the larger live logs will be pulled for firewood. This is a very part time job.
> 
> ...




Are the trees limb locked? I tried to open up a group of trees but they were so thick that we had to hook up a .....tractor to pull them over. Small trees don't have enough weight to tumble through a thick canopy, nor do they have much room to stick a wedge in and work them around. But they are big enough to kill or hurt you.


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## madhatte (Dec 7, 2016)

I ran a S-212 class (wildland fire chainsaw operations) this year in a stand like that. To make a big enough hole to throw stems down in, I had to drive three together and then winch them down with the Lewis winch. After that we just put them down into the hole. In the end the hole we made was about 1/2 acre, enough for a class but not enough to qualify as a proper thin. Little trees are a PITA.


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## slowp (Dec 7, 2016)

One of the few that I was able to hit the ground with. I cut with the Barbie Saw--a 440 with 28 inch bar which my neighbor says is not a safe saw to fall with. I think having a fence where the tree had to go helped to get it on the ground. It's the tractor beams.


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## madhatte (Dec 7, 2016)

LOL @ "tractor beams"


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## Clark10 (Dec 7, 2016)

Here are some images of the area that I'm working in now. I'll also include an image of a truck with a load that would look a lot like what I would be taking out of this area if I were doing so right now. Dogs may give some perspective. By the way, the German Shepherd Dog is 105lbs and is taller and bigger than most people have seen. The McNab is less than half his size but 2 times faster.


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## 7sleeper (Dec 7, 2016)

Those trees are average? Max. 50cc all the way. Your 55, in good maintenance condition, will laugh at the work and give you a few years of problem free cutting time in that type of trees.

Btw nice dogs! Look like great companions!

7


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## northmanlogging (Dec 7, 2016)

Dear everyone that suggests a 50cc saw,

Go out and fall timber for an entire day, don't cut any firewood, just limb and buck to 30-36' lengths with yer hedge trimmer.

Then if you don't already own one, the very next day, go rent a 64-80cc saw with a bar that will cut this timber.

At the end of the day, tally up your progress.

The extra 5-10 pounds of saw is going to be worth it, and after just a few days you won't really notice the weight difference.


I said it before, I'll say it again, this isn't fire wood or stump carving, falling timber means you need to have horse power on your team, and 50cc saws are not meant to fall timber regularly, they will do it, but you will work 3 times as hard for the same amount of production.


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## northmanlogging (Dec 7, 2016)

As far as Dolmar/sachs/poulan/jonesared/echo/shindowa 

Sachs/Dolmar are damned good saws but dealer support is next to null

Same goes for Jonesared, Can't think of any dealers on the west coast

The rest, Echo is ok... wouldn't touch anything else... new homelights,poulan,McCullach pretty much all garbage.


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## madhatte (Dec 7, 2016)

Get a bar that's long enough that standing up, when you drop the tip on the ground, it hits a foot or so in front of your feet. For me, that's 28", which is the bar length I use the most on all saw models. Your mileage may vary. The idea is to bend less, and not hit your feet or legs. It really is only a pound or more of weight. The decrease in bending is important.

Also -- Jred parts mostly cross-reference with Husky, but if your dealer isn't a Jred dealer, you're probably going to have to do a bit of homework.


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## woodfarmer (Dec 7, 2016)

I typically cut large beech and maple in the 18"-30" dia. I usually use jonsered 2165,2171 or Stihl 460 or 066. The bigger the tree, the larger the saw. However today I was cutting 10" cedar trees with the jonsered 2150. The saw wasn't the issue (although I could see how using my 2159 or 2171 would definitely speed things up) it was that every damn tree got hung up, what a pita. I'm used to big trees that go down with a boom. I don't cut for production, just manage our own private woodlots, but I can see why you'd want an excavator beside every tree.


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## bitzer (Dec 7, 2016)

northmanlogging said:


> Dear everyone that suggests a 50cc saw,
> 
> Go out and fall timber for an entire day, don't cut any firewood, just limb and buck to 30-36' lengths with yer hedge trimmer.
> 
> ...


I couldn't have said it better myself. A bigger saw cuts more wood period. That means money to me.


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## bryanr2 (Dec 7, 2016)

Clark10 said:


> Here are some images of the area that I'm working in now. I'll also include an image of a truck with a load that would look a lot like what I would be taking out of this area if I were doing so right now. Dogs may give some perspective. By the way, the German Shepherd Dog is 105lbs and is taller and bigger than most people have seen. The McNab is less than half his size but 2 times faster.
> 
> 
> View attachment 541883
> ...



Wow. Never have heard of a McNab Cattle Dog before today, and I am a true "dog man." I know dog breeds like our resident gurus here know saws.

On your saw decision, Id go with what I have avail as far as dealers close by. Id look close at the 562xp and 555. Hotsaws101 has videos on youtube of 562xp with a 30'' bar on it.


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## northmanlogging (Dec 7, 2016)

FYI, that would be a ported and tuned up 562, also notably not a 50cc saw.

Granted I've ran a 32" on a 60cc saw, its not ideal but it works.


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## JimMorrison (Dec 7, 2016)

northmanlogging said:


> Dear everyone that suggests a 50cc saw,
> 
> Go out and fall timber for an entire day, don't cut any firewood, just limb and buck to 30-36' lengths with yer hedge trimmer.
> 
> ...


I am not a professional logger, most of us are not, but I have used a saw enough to know this guys' post is right on the money. OEM specs and actual weights tell the story. There is less then a 3 lb. difference in most 50 - 70 cc saws. With a slightly bigger fuel tank, oil tank and bigger bar the difference gets bigger, but can be kept below 5 lbs. Less work while using the saw will more then offset carrying the extra 4-5 lbs.


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## bryanr2 (Dec 7, 2016)

northmanlogging said:


> FYI, that would be a ported and tuned up 562, also notably not a 50cc saw.
> 
> Granted I've ran a 32" on a 60cc saw, its not ideal but it works.


yeah I know it's ported. I like 90cc for 32'' bars myself.


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## madhatte (Dec 8, 2016)

I've got a Masterminded 562 in my home arsenal for when I'm not on Uncle Sam's clock. It gets plenty of use. It happily pulls 28" through whatever you care to throw at it. It easily has the snort to pull more, but I'm not confident that the oiler could keep up.


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## bnmc98 (Dec 8, 2016)

Well I'm 42 and fall with a 90cc saw all day and am no longer in stellar shape. The more you do it the more in shape you get. That being said, and maybe it was said and i missed it.
How are you getting paid? by hr, bdf, ton?
If its an up to me situation to make the dough, i would definitely use a faster saw within reason. up to 20" dbh, I would not go less than a 70cc saw with a shorter bar in the 24" category. I wouldn't want longer unless I was limbing, you start running your tip into stuff on the other side. I'd pick a half wrap handle if it were me, i like it better on the small stuff, i find im faster back barring the little stuff.
If you are paid by the hr.... I would still use a larger saw so that you can do the best job for your employer you can, that is what is ethical, and expected.
When I fall lodge-pole pine avg diameter 8-14" I wouldn't even consider a smaller saw that that. Those are money makers, that's why the pros use them.
To boot I would not just have one saw, you need two unless your boss has one you can use if yours, not only breaks down, but may even fall out of the pickup, get run over by equipment, etc...
A shops turn around time in my experience is not usually one day. You don't want to be broke down on another persons job that they have to wait for you. That's when they start looking for other people.
Thats all from a contract production fallers perspective.
good luck.

Oh and for fir, get a decent set of dogs, not that single dog crap


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## Clark10 (Dec 9, 2016)

Thanks guys. I don't think I was as clear as I meant to be and when this post jumped forums it kind of took on a life of it's own. 

This is not my full time occupation but a minimal side line. I've only taken on this one job. The rest of the time I cut my own wood and help remove the occasional downed tree.

With this job 70 percent of the trees are under 12". Tight and crowded stand. Paid by the hour and all the wood is mine unless they would like a few cords for burning. Mostly too small to make selling profitable other wise. This is over 60 acres but maybe 10 total to be thinned. I'm putting in about 17 hours a month as my main work takes pressident. I have been asked to keep it around 40 hours a month total. Owners are friends and have made it clear that they are glad to have me do the work and are seriously in no rush. Open time frame in years not weeks. 

I've decided on the 562XP with 24" bar and regular handle. I need to work in very tight places at times and they would like me to get the small stumps right down to ground almost level if possible. I have the 55 as a backup and access to a 026 if needed. I may pick up a 28inch or 32 inch bar to see how it works on the saw too.

Thanks for all your great advice. Maybe I'll be able to learn more, make some profit, get another logging job and I'll then easily justify a 70-90cc saw. 

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk


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## JimMorrison (Dec 9, 2016)

You have provided 4 pages of entertainment for many people. Good on that and good luck with the ongoing enterprise.


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## northmanlogging (Dec 9, 2016)

Clark10 said:


> Thanks guys. I don't think I was as clear as I meant to be and when this post jumped forums it kind of took on a life of it's own.
> 
> This is not my full time occupation but a minimal side line. I've only taken on this one job. The rest of the time I cut my own wood and help remove the occasional downed tree.
> 
> ...




So 8-9? years ago, a friend of a friend wanted us to take care of some damaged trees left over from when he had it logged, they did a horrible job.

The next year he asked us to thin about 3 acres... then we "thinned" the rest of 21 acres, and clear cut the neighbors, been kind of a downward spiral since then.

Knowing this guy I'll probably be in there again this spring, or summer, my buddy, went ahead and cleared the original patch we had cleaned up the first time, its now a vacant field...

What I'm getting at... logging has a mind of its own, it gets in yer blood and fills yer brain with thoughts of heavy equipment and falling big timber, so be careful and know what you are after.


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## woodfarmer (Dec 9, 2016)

Here's where I'm working, the hang up and the logs, if I'll call them that.


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## JimMorrison (Dec 9, 2016)

Looks like you have a good part time job.


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## bryanr2 (Dec 9, 2016)

Clark10 said:


> Thanks guys. I don't think I was as clear as I meant to be and when this post jumped forums it kind of took on a life of it's own.
> 
> This is not my full time occupation but a minimal side line. I've only taken on this one job. The rest of the time I cut my own wood and help remove the occasional downed tree.
> 
> ...



Im jealous of the firewood honey hole you've stumbled upon. You've picked a great model saw that most will agree is a factory hotrod. Happy cutting. I don't know what you were quoted for the saw, but member Awol can put you in a ported Husqvarna 562 or Jonsered 2260 for $850. Might be something to consider.


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## Cedarkerf (Dec 13, 2016)

For bucking that little stuff I always liked a 28 inch bar on my 044. Too much work bending over on that stuff. Might just be a regional thing but that's just standard out here. I cut everything from 6" vine maple to 56" doug fir with that combo.


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## Clark10 (Dec 27, 2016)

Happy Holidays to you all!

Thanks for all your feedback and suggestions as they are much appreciated.

The saw has been purchased. I am the happy owner of a new Husqvarna 562 XP with a 24" bar and no modifications. I just had it out on the site for about 6 hours today and it works very well. The saw was like wielding a "light saber".  I have to admit that the extra power, sleekness/balance, and relative light weight provide for a safer operator experience in my opinion. I can get in and out of the higher danger zone more swiftly and with less hang ups or delays. As I mentioned in a previous post the area I'm working in has trees that are limb locked and I'm not able to make a clearing to fall into. The new saw allows me to make the needed 4' high horizontal cuts to bring the trunk down through the canopy almost vertically the whole way. These are dangerous conditions but most of the stems are small (3"-6" diameter). As I get to the larger diameter I have some openings to fell the remainder in a safer manner. I could breath a lot easier too as the "Autotune" really kept the ratios right and there was a very clean burn of fuel. Over all very happy.

I went from a 20" bar to a 24" bar and I can really feel the difference! Just a few inches is really saving my back when limbing and bucking. I have really taken all your advice to heart and I'm going to get a longer bar. When I measured it out I would be working with the power head closer to my body and the bar would be further away from my feet and legs when working on the ground. These trees have small limbs and so the bar has to reach down to almost the same extent as a person walking a larger trunk. Maybe four inches less as I'm on the ground instead of on the log and they are small diameter. It isn't like deciduous trees where the crown is wide and keeps the trunk high off the ground after it has fallen. I'm looking for a 28" bar as the manufacturer suggests nothing longer. 

I will see how this saw works over time but I'm already considering a larger saw with a 32" bar if I keep getting work like this.

Thanks for all the help.


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## Ryan'smilling (Dec 27, 2016)

Those longer bars add weight fast. If it's at all possible, get a lightweight bar. 562xp+ 28" lightweight bar=excellent combo for the Pacific Northwest.


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## madhatte (Dec 27, 2016)

Ryan'smilling said:


> 562xp+ 28" lightweight bar=excellent combo for the Pacific Northwest.



Or anywhere else, really!

(Folks who cut Oz hardwoods excepted)


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## northmanlogging (Dec 27, 2016)

a 32" light weight bar on a 461, is a true light saber, I've even considered writing saber after the word light on my Stihl bars


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## madhatte (Dec 27, 2016)

northmanlogging said:


> I've even considered writing saber after the word light on my Stihl bars



I triple dog dare ya!


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## northmanlogging (Dec 27, 2016)

Wow calm down now... no reason to get out of hand...


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## madhatte (Dec 27, 2016)

Heh heh. I just wanna see it done!


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## northmanlogging (Dec 27, 2016)

I tried but it was dark and muh sharpie wasn't cooperating...


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## madhatte (Dec 27, 2016)

Aw man


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## northmanlogging (Dec 27, 2016)

perhaps in the morn? though it might be in green paint pen...


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## madhatte (Dec 28, 2016)




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## northmanlogging (Dec 28, 2016)

There ya go may the farce be with you


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## madhatte (Dec 28, 2016)

There it freakin' is!


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## newforest (Jan 8, 2017)

Sometimes the word "Thinning" means 'pre-commercial' size. I fall trees all day long but rarely much above 10" dbh, though sometimes. I also do this in the mountains at times, or at other times in heavy slash on post-harvest sites, which can be a rather athletic task to walk on all day. So Power:Weight ratio is important to me and I use a 50cc saw for "Thinning" (550XP currently). I keep a 60cc saw as a back-up and for when one of my friends inevitably needs a bigger piece of wood cut, and sometimes when I can stay near the truck I will run the 60cc (562XP currently) for a tank or two, though a 60cc class saw looks a little stilly with a 16" bar on it. But I don't want to tote around any more weight than necessary. The last few days has been in one of the more annoying snow conditions - 1" of fresh clean powder and temps in the low 20s at best since it fell, making the ground feel like it is covered in graphite dust. Not fun on a slope.


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## woodfarmer (Jan 8, 2017)

I lugged around the 2150 all day today, brushing trail. Man that's more work than felling with the 2171.
Cut up one tree with the 2159, which then makes the 2150 feel lighter for about 5 minutes.


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## Clark10 (Nov 14, 2017)

*UPDATE*

It's just shy of a year since I started this adventure with the 562 XP. I thought I would check in and give an update as I always appreciate this on threads that I read like this.

I have to say that I'm still very pleased with the saw. I have been putting in about 25 hours a month. I took the advice of a longer bar and I bought a Tsumura 28" bar for it and run full skip chain. 
Observations:

Tsumura bar set up is great! The longer bar has saved my back and is safer to use in my estimation. I picked up the 55 with a 20" bar the other day (back up saw) and was reminded how much I have to bend over with the shorter bar. I also find myself getting closer to my body with the bar tip as it swings in closer than the 28" bar. Saw has no trouble pulling through the 12-18" average D.F. logs I work with. I have thought about a longer bar but have decided to stay in the manufacturer recommendations on bar length for now. I like the bar so much that I got another one! Thanks to member "thechainsawguy" for the great service. Easy to work with and quick turn around given the border crossing from B.C. to Oregon, USA. 

Autotune has been nice. It seems to do well for the conditions and also appears to adjust for changes in air filter during work. Wife says I smell less like fuel mix at the end of the day too. 

I have had issues with bolts coming loose or shearing on the saw. The saw has great anti-vibe but I've had one shear on the pull cord cover and had to drill and remove to replace, and another with the same issue on the muffler. I had two muffler bolts work out and needed to replace them. 

Just yesterday was my first real repair of the saw as the sprocket came apart. Still has an inner circle but the outside of the circle came apart on about 1/3 of circumference.
No hot start issue as was noted by other folks mentioned with first generation. I go light on startup procedure (don't pump the primer bulb, etc.) when over 85 degrees and all goes well.
Over all I would say this is a great saw and bar combo and I'm happy. With it in the shop this week I find myself looking for another backup saw and find myself thinking another 562XP would be just what I need. 



Happy Holidays 2017 everyone!


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## Little Al (Nov 14, 2017)

7sleeper said:


> Since the wood mentioned is mainly fir trees I would not worry one second about a 50cc saw. What I am suprised about is that you are not using your Rancher 55. It would be an ideal tool for your requirements. Personally I would simply replace the carb membranes and run it with a sharp chain and a max. 18 inch bar.
> 
> If it needs to be a new 50-60cc saw I would consider the Husqvarna 545/555/550/562 or the Jonsered(we have a great dealer here) aquivalent, Dolmar 5105, Echo 590 (just a little muffler mod to run great, by far the best buy out there at the moment!), Stihl 271/291/261 or Hitachi CS51EAP.
> 
> 7


Have to agree with 7S's first paragraph & any of the saws quoted in the second will get the job done Sharp chain is the item that will make your job satisfying & not a chore


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## Little Al (Nov 14, 2017)

Clark10 said:


> *UPDATE*
> 
> It's just shy of a year since I started this adventure with the 562 XP. I thought I would check in and give an update as I always appreciate this on threads that I read like this.
> 
> ...


Could I ask why you are running a skip chain? if you're mainly soft wood cutting I would have thought a full chisel would have performed better


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## northmanlogging (Nov 14, 2017)

Clark10 said:


> *UPDATE*
> 
> I have had issues with bolts coming loose or shearing on the saw. The saw has great anti-vibe but I've had one shear on the pull cord cover and had to drill and remove to replace, and another with the same issue on the muffler. I had two muffler bolts work out and needed to replace them.
> 
> Just yesterday was my first real repair of the saw as the sprocket came apart. Still has an inner circle but the outside of the circle came apart on about 1/3 of circumference.




So reasons 1 and 2 why I don't run Husqvarna, #3 being the handle angle and control layout is goofy to me.




Little Al said:


> Could I ask why you are running a skip chain? if you're mainly soft wood cutting I would have thought a full chisel would have performed better



Some folks don't have access to square grinders or files. Most shops out here only grind round and blink a lot and glance side to side when you ask for square grind stuff.


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## hseII (Nov 14, 2017)

northmanlogging said:


> So reasons 1 and 2 why I don't run Husqvarna, #3 being the handle angle and control layout is goofy to me.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Same Here.


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## Little Al (Nov 14, 2017)

When I first was employed on servicing saws for the logging company I work for they used Stihl saws we had backing out /coming loose & sheared fastenings The boss man got a better deal with using Husky we have backing out/ coming loose & shearing fasteners my take is you pays your money & takes your pick Bit like the Ford/GM feud The saw Iv'e used for the longest period of time without fasteners committing suicide is an Alpina Prof 070S.


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## tramp bushler (Nov 18, 2017)

The cutter spacing has nothing to do with the cutter shape. . running a small power head and a 28 " bar. Full skip makes good sense. 

I think having duplicate powerheads and bars is the perfect idea !!


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## northmanlogging (Nov 18, 2017)

My gods yer stilll alive!


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## tramp bushler (Nov 18, 2017)

Yup. Gotta git going and dig out my climbing gear. We got -12°F wind chill and of all days I have to do a tree job today.
First time climbing in over a year.


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## northmanlogging (Nov 18, 2017)

Ick... Stay safe, and welcome back


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## tramp bushler (Nov 18, 2017)

Thanks. Got it down fine and dandy. Been a couple years since I was in the spurs. Funny how the body remembers how to do its thing. Without a lot of input from the brain. Kinda maxed out my right knee a couple times. One of the coldest climbing jobs I've done. Wind chill was between 15 and 20 below F . old white spruce that grew out in the open are a real so and so to limb when climbing them. Kinda like a red cedar only the limbs stick together like Velcro. 

Sorry for the derail OP.


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## Clark10 (Oct 19, 2018)

No worries "tramp bushler"


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## Clark10 (Dec 15, 2019)

*2019 Update on 562XP*

Saw ran well, as mentioned above, until April of this year. At that time the piston failed. I was going to rebuild it but then I got sidetracked by the 572XP. I was all ready to go that route and get back into the woods but then I tested them side by side. Both were great but the rev-boost really makes a difference to me with all the limbing I do. So, I bought another 562XP. So far I'm happy that I got another one as it does good work for me.

Here is a picture of the piston.

Funny story; I always tell my friends that I will come over and help cut wood but I never lend out a saw. I had a friend who was cutting wood with me. I really wanted him to try out the 562 as he was thinking of buying a new saw. He reminded me of the motto I have about letting others borrow saws but in the end, ran my 562 through some logs. He was doing fine and then... PING! The saw stopped and froze up. I told him no big deal and we switched saws and finished the days work. When I got back to the shop this is what I found. My buddy will never trust me again in the future when I say it's ok to borrow my saw. 


.


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## svk (Dec 15, 2019)

What do you figure was the cause of death in the 562


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## Cycledude (Dec 15, 2019)

Yikes !!!


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## madhatte (Dec 16, 2019)

Hooked a ring, I reckon.


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## Clark10 (Dec 16, 2019)

svk said:


> What do you figure was the cause of death in the 562



No idea. It was running fine with no noise or power issues to that point.


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## Westboastfaller (Dec 16, 2019)

Running pretty clean up to then I wonder if it kicked up a roller bearing or piece of cage or clip? What kind of mix and how many run hours approx?
So the 572 is less responsive you are saying? Thats what I figured by looking at saw vids.


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## HumBurner (Dec 25, 2019)

Not that this would have anything to do with the cracks in the piston (geeez!), but you are running your oiler on high with the 28" bar, right? 562 loves a 20" and 24", but the 28" will need all the oil it can get.


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## Clark10 (Dec 25, 2019)

[QUOTE="Westboastfaller...What kind of mix and how many run hours approx?."[/QUOTE]

*Husqvarna XP 50:1 2 Cycle Engine Synthetic Motor Oil*

*Don't know exact hours but over 200.*

[QUOTE="So the 572 is less responsive you are saying?."[/QUOTE]

Just less torquey at initial acceleration. The 562 is just faster than any other saw I've used. 572 has good power throughout the whole range.


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## Clark10 (Dec 25, 2019)

HumBurner said:


> Not that this would have anything to do with the cracks in the piston (geeez!), but you are running your oiler on high with the 28" bar, right? 562 loves a 20" and 24", but the 28" will need all the oil it can get.



Good thing to check. Yes, oiler was set for bar and oil was being distributed just fine.


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## peak-industry (Mar 13, 2020)

Husqvarna & Stihl ， deserve your trust !


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