# granberg chainsaw mill



## treeman75 (Mar 21, 2011)

I am looking into buying a chainsaw mill to make some benches and tables. Whats the best for the money and what size should I get? I am looking to do this as a hobby. I am looking at the granberg chainsaw mills in baileys magazine. Thanks for the help.


----------



## mtngun (Mar 22, 2011)

I have the 36" granberg. Bear in mind that you will loose about 6" of bar width for the clamps, so a 36" bar will only cut 28" - 30".

Some people make their own mills, and there are a couple of other brands floating around. Whatever tickles your fancy.


----------



## SDB777 (Mar 22, 2011)

I use the poor mans mill....Granberg #777

It does okay, and you don't loose any bar lenght due to clamps on the bar nose, but it could 'flex' and give uneven cuts at the tip. I have measure the difference on a 24" at only 1/4-3/8 inch thickness from one end to the other on slabs that are 10' long(not bad, but not perfect either).


Scott B


----------



## rarefish383 (Mar 22, 2011)

I have a GB also and power it with a 70's vintage Homelite 1050 (100 cc) 36" bar, and have been very pleased. If you have a biggish saw now start with it to make sure you want to get into this. I'll let the guys who really mill respond on their saws, Joe.


----------



## treeman75 (Mar 22, 2011)

I dont think I will be milling anything bigger than 36".


----------



## SDB777 (Mar 23, 2011)

treeman75 said:


> I dont think I will be milling anything bigger than 36".


 
This is like a famous last quote....everybody says it and then we're all looking for a 40+ inch bar!:msp_w00t:



Scott B


----------



## headleyj (Mar 23, 2011)

SDB777 said:


> This is like a famous last quote....everybody says it and then we're all looking for a 40+ inch bar!:msp_w00t:
> 
> 
> 
> Scott B


 
exactly! I got a Granberg 36", then a mini mill, then a small Norwood Bandsaw. It just doesn't stop. 

The CSM's are good, I wouldn't say they're great, just good. My recommendations:
number 0 - BE SAFE
1. Get some good ripping chains, I'd recommend at least 2, preferably 3 and keep them sharp at all times
2. Setup log to mill on a downhill slope - easier on the upper back/ shoulders.
3. You'll need 90-100cc's to mill a 30-36" hardwood
4. Read the CSM sticky's
5. Make sure you have a level, cordless drill, 2.5 or 3" screws and either a section of alum ext. ladder of some niuce straight 2x4's/ 2x6's for your runners. (ladder works better

All in all it's fun as hell man. I made some poplar sideboards for a truck and they look pretty cool. You'll be covered in chips and sweat unless you're Bob who has it down to a dang science.

The GB is a nice mill. I decided to buy one instead of make one cause I was impatient. They're light, but not without faults. Try and find a used one on CL or use searchtempest.com to search multiple CL sites. They're out there and u could prolly save 100 or so. Not much can go wrong with them except for the nut threads stripping out (and they're welded to the mill frame - happened to me)

EDIT - just saw your avatar - didn't know how familiar u were with saws at all - my bad - looks like u got that part under control


----------



## outdoorsman0490 (Mar 23, 2011)

I have the 36" mill and a 2186 Jred powering it. It works fine for me, I cut 28" wide 3" thick red oak slabs this weekend, and it cut right through it (I did give the chain a stroke or two after every cut though). 
Would I like to have a bigger mill, absolutely, but I don't have any machinery to move the logs or bigger slabs. These slabs alone took all the effort of 4 guys and a hydraulic lift gate truck. Since you have the ability to move large logs, you may want to think about going bigger, so you don't end up having to buy a bigger one later. You can always make 20" boards with a 48" mill, but you can't make 40" boards with a 36" mill. Just my 2 cents


----------



## redoakneck (Mar 23, 2011)

I just got a 36" granberg alaskan from bailey's and it is sooo cool.

cut some slabs of walnut and sycamore and the finish was pretty smooth and 1.5" thick start to end.

Some notes- Use woodland ripping chain-works well and easy to sharpen.

I would not get a helper handle, wastes too much bar space.

An old ladder can take the place of the slabbing brackets, but I still think they are useful to get the idea behind that critical first cut.

I plan on making some picnic tables on steroids, beams for a large swing set, and some wood for making raised beds in my garden. All cheap and fun to do.

You can always buy bigger rails from granberg, I think the 58"? were $105? You will be surprised how quickly the jumbo bug hits ya!!!!:msp_thumbup:


----------



## gemniii (Mar 23, 2011)

treeman75 said:


> I am looking into buying a chainsaw mill to make some benches and tables. Whats the best for the money and what size should I get? I am looking to do this as a hobby. I am looking at the granberg chainsaw mills in baileys magazine. Thanks for the help.


Without researching you and your resources - 
The Granberg is pretty fair. It depends what you value your time at and your capability for building things.

A 7hp saw and a 36" Granberg w/ a 42" bar make a good solution. You can always start with a smaller saw/bar combo and use the 36" Granberg.

If you wait a bit they may throw in free shipping. I've probably spent $1,000 there over the past two years, but almost always got free shipping.

If you've got an "upgradeable saw" like my 660's a home made muffler mod or a dual port cover will give a definite low cost increase in power and you will be able to handle the full 36" in the cut.


----------



## treeman75 (Mar 23, 2011)

Good info, it sounds like a fun hobby. I need to do some reading about it.


----------



## oldsaw (Mar 23, 2011)

36" mill, 42" bar, auxiliary oiler, rail system, screws, level, gas, oil, chains, and you are in. I've milled thousands of board feet, but have kind of stalled out recently. Too little time, no good tree availablity. That changes this spring. Got some ash and white and red oak lined up so far, and haven't even started working the contacts yet.


----------



## discounthunter (Mar 23, 2011)

36" alaskan running on either a 2x8,2x10 or some aluminum from a stadium bench.havent milled anything bigger than the 36 can handle.


----------



## oldsaw (Mar 24, 2011)

discounthunter said:


> 36" alaskan running on either a 2x8,2x10 or some aluminum from a stadium bench.havent milled anything bigger than the 36 can handle.


 
With some rope and a winch, a 36" Alaskan can get pretty much any tree you will find...outside of the giants. It's just more work. Most people won't run across anything bigger than 40" class trees, and the 36" mill will be more than adequate.


----------



## BIG JAKE (Mar 24, 2011)

*I'd have to agree...*

a 36" would prolly do ya. I bought a 48" alaskan and in two years have only had the opportunity mill 3 logs a 36" wouldn't handle. One is a 36" x 48" dead standing alligator Juniper. Make a nice slab table and benches. I'm going back for that one.
Keep in mind you can always free hand slab bigger logs if need be. But I'm happy with the alaskan, if I need more speed for boards then I use the Ripsaw bandsaw.


----------



## treeman75 (Mar 24, 2011)

I think i will get the 36 it seem affordable. I have seen slab tables and would like to build one. How do you keep the bark on the slab? I know, i have alot to lean.


----------



## john taliaferro (Mar 24, 2011)

to keep the bark on you cut late winter , or very early spring before the tree starts adding cambium layer thats soft and slipery


----------

