# New on spurless climbing



## bigjayfromwa (Jun 21, 2007)

I mainly do removals, just using spurs chunking them down or falling them whole from the ground to log. However now i am getting a lot of requests for thinning and some topping (for views) and would like to learn the spurless technique. 
I have looked at some descenders and that, but whats the easiest to learn and use. I'm not into all the fancy stuff.
Thank you for any replies


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## kennertree (Jun 21, 2007)

If you're going to be topping then why climb spurless? topping is the worst thing that can be done to a tree especially for clearing a view. Topping, if it does'nt kill the tree is going to cause rapid regrowth which is going to be blocking the view again in a very short time. On climbing spurless there are lots of ways of entering the tree. There are several mechanical devices on the market that aid in accending. I use a pretty simple set up, I just install my rope with a throwball and a big shot then use doubled rope technique with a pantin to help. Check sherrill's website for accenders and see what you think might be best to fit your needs, there is alot of options.


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## rahtreelimbs (Jun 21, 2007)

Getting into the tree spurless is one thing, getting through the tree spurless is a whole different art............and it is an art.


I assume you climb with the traditional system.........climbing line,hitch( readers digest version).


The cheapest (although not quick) is to learn to footlock the tail of your rope below your hitch. This method you are only legging half of your weight and it can train you for when you make the move to SRT and ascenders!!!


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## luvthetrobag (Jun 22, 2007)

its definitly is an art to move around without spurs i spent 3 years pruning for a private company before the owner even considered me for a removal .when i got used to spikes i thought man this is alot easier physically. your probally going to think the opposite, man this is a ?????. ther are alot of techniques that can save energy but regardless you need to be in shape if you are going to prune big trees.where im from there are some monsters(SE PA).Get yourself a good throw line and a few bags and you will soon consider it a favorite tool once you get good at it . if you can set yourself up high and in the center of the tree in a strong crotch youll be ahead of most beginer pruners allready.My basic routine is set my rope up as high and centered as possibble. I also trie to make sure my rope is set without obstructions like branches to reach a round and i like to have it set so im not hanging away from the tree. it is much easter to have your feet touching the tree for your accent. I use the classic climbing knot and the hip thrust method however i dont tie in on the ground. What i do is get at least 2 guys to help me up the tree.The more the better. as i pull they pull and they also belay at the same time. I like to get the hard part over so i go all the way to the top and then tie in then it is time to work. moving around thats a whole other thing


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## Fireaxman (Jun 24, 2007)

bigjayfromwa said:


> ... I have looked at some descenders and that, but whats the easiest to learn and use. I'm not into all the fancy stuff.
> Thank you for any replies



I think easiest to "Learn" and simplest is doubled rope through a high crotch, long tail from the tie in to your saddle in a Blake Hitch. Page 35 and 40 in the "Tree Climber's Companion". Simple, safe, reliable, traditional. Easiest to "Use" ? We spend a lot of time arguing about that. But a lot depends on each individual situation. 

Start simple and after the first time on rope you will start to understand the advantages of the more sophisticated techniques. You might also gain a new appreciation for your spurs, when you can use them without having to worry about damaging the tree. But I like to do pruning and dead wood removal(leave'em living and healthy) and really enjoy the challenges and good exercise of working on rope.

Mow a yard and it has to be done again in a week. Not much satisfaction in that. Cut down a tree and you can look back on the day knowing you have made a real difference (good or bad). Clean one up or save it and you can enjoy your handiwork for years, every time you drive by it.


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## treeseer (Jun 24, 2007)

bigjayfromwa said:


> i am getting a lot of requests for thinning and some topping (for views) and would like to learn


how to make the kindest cuts? Buy Gilman's Illustrated Guide to Pruning if you want to learn to prune.


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## Boa07 (Jun 25, 2007)

Treeseer is right bigjay Gilmans guide is one of the best resources going around put that together with Shigos Tree Pruning and you have all the hard info you'll need, however I would suggest you try if possible to watch an experienced climber(arborist) at work to really put it all together, I learnt more being the groundie for good climbers than I ever thought possible. Watching how they solve the problems the tree throws at them, positioning, short cuts, energy saving, quick and safe and simple rigging and on and on....


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## Fireaxman (Jun 25, 2007)

treeseer said:


> how to make the kindest cuts? Buy Gilman's Illustrated Guide to Pruning if you want to learn to prune.



Do you recomend Gilman's book over Shigo's? Where can I get Gilman's? A Google search did not turn it up for me.


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## woodchux (Jun 25, 2007)

Fireaxman said:


> Do you recomend Gilman's book over Shigo's? Where can I get Gilman's? A Google search did not turn it up for me.



http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Gilman's+Illustrated+Guide+to+Pruning+


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## Fireaxman (Jun 25, 2007)

Thanx! Its on the way.


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## M.D. Vaden (Jun 27, 2007)

kennertree said:


> If you're going to be topping then why climb spurless?



Probably because he wrote that he's been getting requests to thin trees.

It was in the first post.


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