# Quick and dirty cambium saver?



## Diesel JD (Aug 23, 2006)

Is there any way to protect the bark on a delicate tree without spending the big bucks for one of those nice ones from Buckingham and such? The reason I ask is I know that's chump change for a pro, but as of now, I'm only climbing occaisonally and trimmingmy own trees but I have a maple and I loquat I need to climb and prune. I fear that they would take soime damage from the DRT without some sort of friction limiting device. thanks,
J.D.


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## fishhuntcutwood (Aug 23, 2006)

All a cambium saver does is keep the rope from rubbing directly on the tree. You can buy steel and aluminum rings in many places. There's several methods to use to take a length of static rope, two rings, and voila-cambium saver. But that's IF you're comfortable with load bearing, life support knots. If you're not, spend the $70 on a new one.

Jeff


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## 046 (Aug 23, 2006)

why don't you make your own from a piece of cowhide? 

simply find a flexible long piece of cowhide. then sew to make a tube long enough to wrap around a good sized branch fork. smooth side in..

you do need a heavy duty sewing machine. generally any sewing machine heavy enough to sew blue jeans will work. use hide thick as your sewing machine will allow. 

I find setting/removing this type cambium saver is minimal fuss.

after you set your rope, simply tie a slip knot underneath leather cambium saver to pull up, then a sharp yank will release slip knot. 

this protects your rope and the cambium too..


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## Climb020 (Aug 23, 2006)

You can use a webbing strap, 2 biners and a micro pulley. I have done this and it works well.
Moss has made one from supplies from a hardware store. I am sure he will be willing to provide info.

But you can get a cambium saver cheap though. I have seen them for $19. That is cheaper than a biner.


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## Diesel JD (Aug 23, 2006)

where have you seen a cambium saver for $19?? That sounds good and cheap.


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## Fireaxman (Aug 23, 2006)

I have run my Height Adjustable False Crotch (Tree Climber's Companion Page 50) through a piece of old 5/8 water hose to good effect on occasion.


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## GASoline71 (Aug 24, 2006)

Diesel JD said:


> where have you seen a cambium saver for $19?? That sounds good and cheap.



Sherrill's sells the rawhide one for 19 bucks, and they are a sponsor here!:rockn: 

Gary


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## moss (Aug 24, 2006)

Here's a $20 cambium saver, this is the new style pipe sleeve from New Tribe invented by Elliot Su. It's supposed to be for 11mm and smaller rope only. I'm using a pair of them on each end of my 11.5mm Poison Ivy. Works great, very light, packs small, goes around very small diameter branches. I recommend the 30" version:
Su Sleeve

The classic $25 liquid tight conduit sleeve by Dan House also at New Tribe, this is the workhorse pipe sleeve, handles 1/2" rope easily, holds up to anything, lasts forever:
Dan House Sleeve

You can make it yourself but beware, House uses VF (very flexible) rated liquid tight conduit, the stuff at your local or megastore supplier does not have a small enough minimum bend radius and will not stay in the crotch when you try and install it. When you check out the conduit in the store test to make sure it bends to 5"-6" radius, if not it's going to be a pain to use. Also it is hit or miss trying to find the right end ferrules, they MUST be smooth on the inside and rounded on the outside.

For a couple of pipes it's not worth the time and effort to maybe or maybe not succeed homemade, $25 is a good price.

Garden hose is not good, it melts, falls apart and falls out of the crotch under rope friction. Can you tell? I've tried.
-moss


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## Fireaxman (Aug 24, 2006)

moss said:


> Garden hose is not good, it melts, falls apart and falls out of the crotch under rope friction. Can you tell? I've tried.
> -moss



That's why I put it on the static side, not the dynamic side, of the system. I put it on the static side of the adjustable false crotch. The snap hook keeps it from sliding off the rope, and it does not melt because the rope does not slide through it. It just keeps the wear off of the cambium and rope.

If you look at the illustration of "Setting up the Adjustable False Crotch" in TCC page 50, I put the water hose between the figure 8 knot (lable 2.) and the anchor, ending about where Bryan K. put his "Anchor" label, just above his number 5.


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## moss (Aug 24, 2006)

Fireaxman said:


> That's why I put it on the static side, not the dynamic side, of the system. I put it on the static side of the adjustable false crotch. The snap hook keeps it from sliding off the rope, and it does not melt because the rope does not slide through it. It just keeps the wear off of the cambium and rope.
> 
> If you look at the illustration of "Setting up the Adjustable False Crotch" in TCC page 50, I put the water hose between the figure 8 knot (lable 2.) and the anchor, ending about where Bryan K. put his "Anchor" label, just above his number 5.



I get it, I thought you were using the garden hose for a dynamic system. Interesting idea although I don't think you have to worry about wear to the rope or the tree too much on the static side of the system described on pg. 50. Unless there was something particularly sharp in the crotch. If you were expecting to lower the static rope while loaded then you'd want "real" cambium protection there.
-moss


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## arboralliance (Aug 24, 2006)

*You want cheap...*

(Make sure all gear including webbing is rated, webbing should have a different color stitch through the center line of it or two or more lines indicating a tonnage rating, chain should have a designated rating from hardware store when you ask for a single link the same applies to any equipment used to support humans in or rigging in and around human life)

Two pieces of chain (could also use one piece chain and one "Mallion Rapide" or similar to get the two differing sizes to set and recover saver) on a tied out piece of tube/webbing should cost about $1 - $5 depending on the length of tubing/webbing (is set and retrieved the same way as Buckingham ringed c/saver)... (I recently paid about $1.50 AUD per meter for 2 ton webbing)...

Same webbing and 2-3 carabiners (biners should be juxtapositioned (gates facing away from each other and running in opposite directions) to avoid gate exit/peel-out/opening) any biners will do it if using 2 or more... Cost you around $30 AUD ($10-15 USD)...

Most mountains and big walls around the globe are conquered using spring gate (non screw/locking) biners; when they are relatively constantly loaded such as in a cambium sav' config' they're safe as houses...

One Biner one piece/link of chain one length of tubing/tape tied into endless sling, easy to set, easy to retrieve, easy to replace, cheap to run, aaah there's sense in simplicity...opcorn:

Might try to get some pics up, still cant re-size, computers are (one of) my achilles heals:bang:


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## Tom Dunlap (Aug 25, 2006)

For years I've used homemade false crotches. I have pictures posted somewhere here on AS or over at my place. 

to make one, get a one inch sewn tubular webbing sling or tie one using a Beer Knot. You could also use rope/cord too. If you do, tie in the slipped double fisherman style that is illustrated in the Tree climbers Companion. Or here:

http://www.climerware.com/dogvine.shtml

Install a MR/screwlink rated over 5k# breaking strength and a small CMI rescue pulley...the plastic sheave, stamped metal cheek ones are less than $15. Choke the eye of the sling down onto the MR.

Clip an HMS style biner into the other end of the sling. You can tape, stitch or whip the biner in place to keep it from flopping around.


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## M.P (Aug 29, 2006)

*false crutch*

hi this is my part home made false crutch,its a Buckingham false crutch and i cut of the small loop and put a HMS crab and a pulley works real good.mat

View attachment 37419
works now,but a bit big!


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## GASoline71 (Aug 29, 2006)

MP... your links to your pictures don't bring up anything.

Gary


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## SRT-Tech (Sep 12, 2006)

Fireaxman said:


> That's why I put it on the static side, not the dynamic side, of the system. I put it on the static side of the adjustable false crotch. The snap hook keeps it from sliding off the rope, and it does not melt because the rope does not slide through it. It just keeps the wear off of the cambium and rope.
> 
> If you look at the illustration of "Setting up the Adjustable False Crotch" in TCC page 50, I put the water hose between the figure 8 knot (lable 2.) and the anchor, ending about where Bryan K. put his "Anchor" label, just above his number 5.



is this (see pic) similar to what you have??? (this is my adjustable false crotch setup. I throwline up, let the weight return to ground, tie on the end of the rope and then i haul up the pulley/cambiumsaver/anchor rope + my climbing line (rigged thru the pulley). I then anchor off the false crotch system somewhere down at ground, around a tree, using a tensionless hitch (bombproof anchor setup)










with a TREECLIMBER :biggrinbounce2: on rope....lol


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## (WLL) (Dec 21, 2006)

*home made saver*

tenex core nylon cover:rockn:


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## moray (Dec 31, 2006)

*Nylon Cover*

WLL, How do you make the nylon cover? I love Tenex!


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## (WLL) (Dec 31, 2006)

*its very easy*



moray said:


> WLL, How do you make the nylon cover? I love Tenex!



after u splice 1 end of your saver just take a piece of 1in nylon tube sling cut to lenth and put over tenex. push down very hard and and webbing will bunch up leaving u lots of room 2 splice the last end. then fix the cover to hide the tenex and use tape for the ends. avoid stiching so u can easly inspect your work and enjoy. i swear by theese they are stiff and flip on and off with ease and are streemline and strong. they are very cheep and easy 2 make and work much better than any other saver i have seen and used.


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## moray (Dec 31, 2006)

Thankx, WLL. I've been making mine from 3-strand. I'll try your method on the next one I make.


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## Fumbler (Jan 5, 2007)

WLL, what diameter Tenex do you use?


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## ddhlakebound (Jan 5, 2007)

SRT-Tech said:


> is this (see pic) similar to what you have??? (this is my adjustable false crotch setup. I throwline up, let the weight return to ground, tie on the end of the rope and then i haul up the pulley/cambiumsaver/anchor rope + my climbing line (rigged thru the pulley). I then anchor off the false crotch system somewhere down at ground, around a tree, using a tensionless hitch (bombproof anchor setup)
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Nice setup SRT, use a very similar one myself sometimes. My only concern is that, unless I'm mistaken, the prussic cord supporting your pulley is rated at 2900#, and definately a weak link in your system. 

WLL, nice work on the friction saver, gonna have to try that out.


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## (WLL) (Jan 5, 2007)

Fumbler said:


> WLL, what diameter Tenex do you use?



i use 3/8 sling grade coated tenex


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## SRT-Tech (Jan 9, 2007)

ddhlakebound said:


> Nice setup SRT, use a very similar one myself sometimes. My only concern is that, unless I'm mistaken, the prussic cord supporting your pulley is rated at 2900#, and definately a weak link in your system.



prussick cord?    

only knot in that system is the double figure 8 for attaching the carabiners for the pulley...


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## ddhlakebound (Jan 9, 2007)

SRT.....the cord in which the dbl figure eight knot is tied is what I'm refering to. I believe it's the same stuff as page 8 of the Sherril catalog. It is labeled accessory cord there. The tensile strength of the tan/blue cord is 2900 pounds, not meeting the 5000# mininum tensile strength for climbing system components.


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## SRT-Tech (Jan 25, 2007)

AH! nope, thats Static rescue rope, rated at 6000lbs, 11.5mm. (the red cord was just to demonstrate where the climbign rope would go). Thats a full size Petzl Rescue pulley, 3" pulley, 4.5" sideplates


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## jtc16 (Apr 25, 2016)

046 said:


> after you set your rope, simply tie a slip knot underneath leather cambium saver to pull up, then a sharp yank will release slip knot.



Haven't tried a leather cambium saver yet but I have one coming in the mail. the only thing I'm wondering is do you tie your slipknot closer to the end of the rope thats tied to the throwline so basically right when the rope gets overthe crotch the cambium saver is right behind it and then yank out the slipknot and pull the rest of the rope because the cambium saver stays in place. Or do you want to pull over a considerable amount of rope before yanking out the slipknot. You don't have to guesstimate the cambium saver placement exactly do you? It will usually get stuck in the crotch and the rope will slide?


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## jtc16 (Apr 28, 2016)

Nvm got it down


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## jtc16 (May 23, 2016)

Diesel JD said:


> Is there any way to protect the bark on a delicate tree without spending the big bucks for one of those nice ones from Buckingham and such? The reason I ask is I know that's chump change for a pro, but as of now, I'm only climbing occaisonally and trimmingmy own trees but I have a maple and I loquat I need to climb and prune. I fear that they would take soime damage from the DRT without some sort of friction limiting device. thanks,
> J.D.



Singing Rock Jingle II Friction Saver, they come in cm so you have to convert. I think this one is 100cm or around 3'. Cheaper than buckingham.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Singing-Roc...128261?hash=item2359f5ad45:g:1VkAAOSwv0tU7Mvv

I also use this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weaver-Leat...837514?hash=item2a5000840a:g:n24AAOSwpDdVQS6T
it might be cheaper on treestuff.com


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