# Stihl 362 with 25 or 28 bar



## Stihlburnin (Nov 7, 2013)

I have a 362 with a muff mod and a 20" bar. Runs strong, great saw.
I want to put a bigger bar on, 25 or 28. Is 28 too big?
And should I run a skip chain?
Appreciate any thoughts, thanks.


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## AKDoug (Nov 7, 2013)

All depends what you are cutting. We run 362's with 25" bars and RSF (skip) Stihl chain with no issues in Birch which isn't that hard of a hardwood.


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## VASAW (Nov 7, 2013)

Try the 25"


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## tlandrum (Nov 7, 2013)

ive never been a fan of running any longer bar than a 20'' on a 60cc saw


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## kc4sfe (Nov 7, 2013)

I run a 25" on mine but I have found it works much better with full skip chain.


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## albert (Nov 7, 2013)

If it's your biggest saw 25" will work ok. Skip is a good choice. Cutting hardwood? Keep your chain sharp and don't lower your rakers excessively, and set your carb in the wood for best torque.


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## windthrown (Nov 7, 2013)

Do not fear the long bar! I run 25 inch bars on my 036 and 361s all the time, full skip or full comp (wood depending). A 362 will run a 25" just fine. As will a 034 Super, 036, 360 and 361. The problems start when you run a 28 inch on a 034 Super, 036, 360, 361, or 362 because the oil pumps are not designed to wet a bar that size. They all have the same stock oil pump output. If you want to run a 28 on your 362, you want to upgrade the oil pump on it. Swap out the oil pump with a 460R oil pump or parts and it will keep the bar oiled. See my old AS post on doing that here (the oil pump in the 362 is the same part number as the 361):

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/the-361-options-and-mods-thead.84068/#post-1282969


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## SawTroll (Nov 7, 2013)

I'm sure you _can_ do it with skip chain - but I also am sure that I would hate the balance and handling of the saw.

You may be different though, and it is your decision.....


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## rwoods (Nov 7, 2013)

Go with the 25" if you must. A 362 will handle it but it will be much happier with the 20" and probably you too. BTW I have run a 25" for many years on a 036Pro in hardwood but IMO it is really marginal for falling trees requiring that length. It now wears a 20". I have a 25" on a 362 and a 20" on a 362 both used for bucking - you can really tell the difference if you are actually using the full bar length in hardwood. Ron


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## Philip Wheelock (Nov 7, 2013)

28" bar on that saw is a no-go; 25" bar is marginal in softwood. If you really need a bigger bar, get a bigger saw to go with it.


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## gsrsol84mm (Nov 7, 2013)

I am running a 20" bar on my ported 60cc saw and it's perfect. I would not run a longer bar for regular use

I just ran a 28" bar on my ported 70cc saw and while it did work well you couldn't really lean on it. The 70cc saw will be happier with a 24" bar . I am hoping the Sugihara 24" bar gets here soon.


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## XSKIER (Nov 7, 2013)

I ran a 20" blade on my MS 362. For my comfort level the oiler was at its max with that length guide. If you do need a longer bar, you will need more oil.


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## Stihlburnin (Nov 7, 2013)

thanks for the info. I almost went with a 28, but thought I better check you guys first. I think I will go with a 25 and a full skip.
Thanks for the input!


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## terryknight (Nov 7, 2013)

25" is fine. i swap back and forth between 20 and 25 and only run run comp.


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## SawTroll (Nov 8, 2013)

gsrsol84mm said:


> I am running a 20" bar on my ported 60cc saw and it's perfect. I would not run a longer bar for regular use
> 
> I just ran a 28" bar on my ported 70cc saw and while it did work well you couldn't really lean on it. The 70cc saw will be happier with a 24" bar . I am hoping the Sugihara 24" bar gets here soon.


 

Even a 20" bar will make many 60cc saws front heavy, specially if it is an RSN one. The MS362 is quite heavy for a 60cc saw, but I don't think it is enough to really matter much in that setting.

My (lighter) MS361 is a little front heavy even with an 18" Rollomatic E (a light laminated bar).

Imo, a 20" bar mainly is 70cc+ territory, unless it is just for occational use, when really needed.

Never mind the West Coast guys, they are so used to running overly long bars that they don't know what balance is.


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## AKDoug (Nov 8, 2013)

Nor do we care


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## SawTroll (Nov 8, 2013)

AKDoug said:


> Nor do we care


 

I know, but that is your loss. 

However, I do understand you, at least partially, because of the large and soft trees you have there....


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## gsrsol84mm (Nov 8, 2013)

My ported 60cc is a Jonsered 2260 Ported by Tlandrum. It takes the small Husky mount bar and is currently wearing an Oregon Pro Lite 20" 3/8 .050 bar. The saw is very well balanced with the 20" Pro Lite Bar
and is really my go to saw. I would not want an 18" bar on this saw as the 20" bar feels perfect. I would also not want a longer than 20" bar on this saw either. If I had to have just one saw, it would be the ported 2260.


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## mdavlee (Nov 8, 2013)

Longer bars is less bending and reaching. I prefer a 28" at the shortest. There's only 3 more cutters on a full skip 28" over the 24". Just get the stihl light in 28" with skip and it will be the same weight as the 20" ES.


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## Philip Wheelock (Nov 8, 2013)

gsrsol84mm said:


> My ported 60cc is a Jonsered 2260 Ported by Tlandrum. It takes the small Husky mount bar and is currently wearing an Oregon Pro Lite 20" 3/8 .050 bar...



That setup makes a lot of sense to me.


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## XSKIER (Nov 8, 2013)

mdavlee said:


> Longer bars is less bending and reaching. I prefer a 28" at the shortest. There's only 3 more cutters on a full skip 28" over the 24". Just get the stihl light in 28" with skip and it will be the same weight as the 20" ES.



That setup makes more sense to me.


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## sachsmo (Nov 8, 2013)

I like a 2100 when using a 28" bar/chain. Gotta agree with Landrum, 20 is about max fer a 60cc.

But then again we in the midwest deal with mostly Ash Hickory and Oak?


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## tallfarmboy (Nov 8, 2013)

Sure, buying a bar will help a little... BUT, buying a new saw will help LOTS! My vote is to find you a good used 70-80cc saw for the bigger bars.


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## windthrown (Nov 8, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> Never mind the West Coast guys, they are so used to running overly long bars that they don't know what balance is.


 
What balance is that? When lugging the saw around? I fail (and always have failed) to understand this aspect of chainsaws, or the need to have a 'balanced' saw with the bar attached. When the saw is in the wood making falling cuts and dogged down and you are levering on it, the balanced bar debate becomes completely moot. Also when bucking, the center of gravity is farther out on a longer bar and hence has a beneficial effect, if anything. When walking a log in calks and/or limbing a log, you want the saw bar in a dropped position anyway, and a long bar means less bending and back stress. And longer bars allows for cutting from one side in larger diameter trees. Of course, we actually have larger diameter trees here. We also have hardwood trees here. Some native ones are Pacific Madrone, Oregon white oak, and bigleaf maple, and imported ones are eucalyptus and Norway maple. I have a lot of Norway maple on my property here. Just as dense as anything back east or in the EU.

Its a western vs. eastern paradigm for sure. As such, neither side will ever understand the other's perspective. Not all, but many people east if the Rockies suffer from shrimpy bar disease. Out west here, we all pretty much suffer from looooooong bar disease.


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## 7sleeper (Nov 8, 2013)

Too bad they don't make a 25inch bar in 0.50 3/8 picco for a Stihl PS 3 chain. That would be an absolute killer combination for your 362!

7


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## rwoods (Nov 8, 2013)

These long bar - short bar discussions are perpetual and a sign that AS is back on track again. To keep it going - I am in the it depends upon what you are cutting and your style of cutting camp. Personally I prefer 28" to 32" bars except for bucking in tight quarters - such as log piles. But I'm not going to fool myself in thinking that any of my 60cc +/- saws are going to cut as well with a 25" bar buried in an oak nor have the speed or power to keep me from or get me out of a serious bind as a shorter bar might in bar length wood. Long bars in big wood need more umph. Long bars in small wood should be no big deal power-wise if kept within reason. 

Ron


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## XSKIER (Nov 8, 2013)

7sleeper said:


> Too bad they don't make a 25inch bar in 0.50 3/8 picco for a Stihl PS 3 chain. That would be an absolute killer combination for your 362!
> 
> 7


You've forgotten aboot kevlargaffs already?


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## gsrsol84mm (Nov 8, 2013)

XSKIER said:


> You've forgotten aboot kevlargaffs already?



Now that's funny


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## 7sleeper (Nov 8, 2013)

XSKIER said:


> You've forgotten aboot kevlargaffs already?


I don't understand what you mean?!

7


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## XSKIER (Nov 8, 2013)

7sleeper said:


> I don't understand what you mean?!
> 
> 7



New forum, new haze of ignorance I guess.


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## 7sleeper (Nov 8, 2013)

XSKIER said:


> New forum, new haze of ignorance I guess.


Still don't understand what you mean. 

What I am talking about is the new "261 tuning kit", that is all the craze here at the moment. Stihl is offering for the 261 a 40cm/16inch bar with 3 chains in 3/8 picco PS3 full chisel in one package. That setup alone changes the aspect of your understanding of the words "fast foward"! If something similar was available for the 362 everyone would be running to the store trying to get a set!

7


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## Stihlburnin (Nov 8, 2013)

7sleeper said:


> Too bad they don't make a 25inch bar in 0.50 3/8 picco for a Stihl PS 3 chain. That would be an absolute killer combination for your 362!
> 
> 7


 I think Kevlargaff is running PS3 on a 28" Oregon bar, maybe that's worth looking into!


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## 7sleeper (Nov 8, 2013)

Stihlburnin said:


> I think Kevlargaff is running PS3 on a 28" Oregon bar, maybe that's worth looking into!


Didn't know that. Do you have a link to him and his work?

7


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## gsrsol84mm (Nov 8, 2013)

It's actually PS Stihl Chain not the PS3 chain. That PS chain really cuts well. I run it on a Snellerized Stihl 201c and a stihl 192tc both with 14" bars


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## windthrown (Nov 8, 2013)

7sleeper said:


> Too bad they don't make a 25inch bar in 0.50 3/8 picco for a Stihl PS 3 chain. That would be an absolute killer combination for your 362!
> 7


 
When they came out with the 024, Stihl briefly sold (for like 6 months) large mount Picco (low profile 3/8) bars. However, people were putting them on larger saws and Stihl considered them a safety and liability risk, so they discontinued large format Picco bars in the US. Logosol also made them for chainsaw milling, but last I looked there, they are not sold in the USA either. They are available overseas. You have to be careful using that stuff though on large saws 60cc and up. You can easily stretch the chain, and/or break it. They are great for 026 saws though. The narrow kerf makes for faster cutting.


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## Stihlburnin (Nov 8, 2013)

7sleeper said:


> Didn't know that. Do you have a link to him and his work?
> 
> 7


 He has a 261 on ebay with that set up!


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## gsrsol84mm (Nov 8, 2013)

Stihlburnin said:


> He has a 261 on ebay with that set up!



Not how I would set up a 261 but here it is.


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## windthrown (Nov 8, 2013)

gsrsol84mm said:


> It's actually PS Stihl Chain not the PS3 chain. That PS chain really cuts well. I run it on a Snellerized Stihl 201c and a stihl 192tc both with 14" bars




There is PS and PS3 chain... PS3 is full chisel safety Picco, and PS is full chisel non-safety Picco. PM3 and PMC3 is semi-chisel safety Picco. Last I looked, Stihl does not make a non-safety semi-chisel Picco chain, so I use Carlton for that (low profile, non-safety semi-chisel).


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## gsrsol84mm (Nov 8, 2013)

windthrown said:


> There is PS and PS3 chain... PS3 is full chisel safety Picco, and PS is full chisel non-safety Picco. PM3 and PMC3 is semi-chisel safety Picco. Last I looked, Stihl does not make a non-safety semi-chisel Picco chain, so I use Carlton for that (low profile, non-safety semi-chisel).



I have tried the PS3 and PM3 and Like the PS chain for the limbing we do here. I do touch up the chain quite often with the Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener. I like that PS chain a lot and did not like the Pm3 chain at all. PS3 was not bad
for a safety chain. I would like to try some non safety semi chisel chain. Not sure why Stihl doesn't make any ?

Here is My Snellerized 201c and 192tc with PS chain and 14" bars - 9" dried elm


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## 2dogs (Nov 8, 2013)

Troll I love you man but this balance fetish makes me think you're back on smalahove for breakfast, lunch, and dinner again. I would ask you what bar should I use on my 090 for bucking the occasional BIG fir or redwood? Now I run a 4' or even a 5' bar and either combination is as nose heavy as a bulldozer. But, it reaches through the log. The only saw where balance is important to me is my MS200T. It wears a 16" light bar.

I like a 22" Stihl bar on the MS361 because I like the feel of the combo when cutting firewood in the skidder pile. BTW it is a heavy bar. (However I have really fallen in love with the MS261/20" combo.) But for real work a 28" bar on a 440 or 441 suits my height best. I prefer the Stihl Light bar but even with a Cannon the "reach" and therefore my hand/shoulder position is optimal. I can work longer and with less back pain. Body and shoulder position is impotant, balance is not. At least to me. YMMV.


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## XSKIER (Nov 8, 2013)

They used to make picco micro comfort. PMC. Non-safety semi-chisel. I think it has been discontinued though. On a MS 192 T C-E, I couldn't tell the differense between PMC and PS3.


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## gsrsol84mm (Nov 8, 2013)

2dogs said:


> Troll I love you man but this balance fetish makes me think you're back on smalahove for breakfast, lunch, and dinner again. I would ask you what bar should I use on my 090 for bucking the occasional BIG fir or redwood? Now I run a 4' or even a 5' bar and either combination is as nose heavy as a bulldozer. But, it reaches through the log. The only saw where balance is important to me is my MS200T. It wears a 16" light bar.
> 
> I like a 22" Stihl bar on the MS361 because I like the feel of the combo when cutting firewood in the skidder pile. BTW it is a heavy bar. (However I have really fallen in love with the MS261/20" combo.) But for real work a 28" bar on a 440 or 441 suits my height best. I prefer the Stihl Light bar but even with a Cannon the "reach" and therefore my hand/shoulder position is optimal. I can work longer and with less back pain. Body and shoulder position is impotant, balance is not. At least to me. YMMV.



Makes a lot of sense. I like the 20" bar on my MS261 as well but the Jonsered 2260 is almost the same weight as the stihl 261 with lots more power so I tend to use it first with the 20" bar. 20" bars are comfortable to use for me and I like the 16" light bar on my stihl 201c. I have shorter bars for my 50cc saws but don't really like to use them. If I need a shorter bar I go to the Snellerized stihl 201c.


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## windthrown (Nov 9, 2013)

2dogs said:


> I like a 22" Stihl bar on the MS361 because I like the feel of the combo when cutting firewood in the skidder pile.


 
What gauge is your 22" bar? I could not find a PN for a Stihl 22 inch bar. The only bar I can find in that size is a Cannon and its a 0.063. I have all 0.050 3/8 std. B&C on my larger saws. I think a 22 would be the ideal size bar for a 361 myself (and likely my 036). The 25s are not that heavy or long to me, and the added length does not bother me at all. Half the 361s I bought here had 28 inch bars on them. They were all burned from lack of oil though. I run them on my 044.


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## Stihl-Pioneer (Nov 9, 2013)

windthrown said:


> What gauge is your 22" bar? I could not find a PN for a Stihl 22 inch bar. The only bar I can find in that size is a Cannon and its a 0.063. I have all 0.050 3/8 std. B&C on my larger saws. I think a 22 would be the ideal size bar for a 361 myself (and likely my 036). The 25s are not that heavy or long to me, and the added length does not bother me at all. Half the 361s I bought here had 28 inch bars on them. They were all burned from lack of oil though. I run them on my 044.


Stihl only offers the 22" in .063. The part # is 3003 000 9425.


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## windthrown (Nov 9, 2013)

Same as Cannon then, and only .063... rats.


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## Ndigity26 (Nov 9, 2013)

gsrsol84mm said:


> My ported 60cc is a Jonsered 2260 Ported by Tlandrum. It takes the small Husky mount bar and is currently wearing an Oregon Pro Lite 20" 3/8 .050 bar. The saw is very well balanced with the 20" Pro Lite Bar
> and is really my go to saw. I would not want an 18" bar on this saw as the 20" bar feels perfect. I would also not want a longer than 20" bar on this saw either. If I had to have just one saw, it would be the ported 2260.


 how much for one of those 2260's


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## SawTroll (Nov 9, 2013)

Stihl-Pioneer said:


> Stihl only offers the 22" in .063. The part # is 3003 000 9425.


Imo, .058 is the ideal gauge for most use, but it isn't that big of a deal!

Stihl makes .325 and 3/8" chain in that gauge, but the only Stihl bars in that gauge I know of are quite short Rollomatic E bars, 13-15".


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## windthrown (Nov 9, 2013)

No one uses 0.058 gauge on Stihl saws in the states though. Its all 0.050 and 0.063, and 0.050 is far more common (at least in the wild west). I have long since swapped all my B&C to 0.050 std. gauge on my large mount Stihls.


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## SawTroll (Nov 10, 2013)

windthrown said:


> No one uses 0.058 gauge on Stihl saws in the states though. Its all 0.050 and 0.063, and 0.050 is far more common (at least in the wild west). I have long since swapped all my B&C to 0.050 std. gauge on my large mount Stihls.


 
I know, but I suspect it is not ideal when it comes to oiling!


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## sachsmo (Nov 10, 2013)

The long and short of it (so to speak) is that a saw is a tool.

You wouldn't scoop lead shot with a grain shovel nor would you scoop grain with garden trowel eh?

A 20" bar in these parts will get 90% of the trees down and on the truck.

Of course it is mostly flat and the trees are, well different than out West.

Different strokes for different folks.


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## PersonX (Feb 23, 2019)

I’m reading this thread wondering why anyone in their right mind would hang a 20” bar on a 362 and then I’m reminded of how horrible my 362 ran in stock form and how disappointed I was with it over its lack of power and poor bar lubrication and now the 20” thing really makes sense to me for some people. You guys ever think about how easy it is to uncork this eco saw or is it taboo to even chit chat about it on here wink wink? I know my Stihl dealer won’t even discuss the existence of limiter caps on the carb ( yes my 362 has a fully adjustable carb and no longer runs lean!) for fear the epa will come for him with handcuffs. I also threw the stock Oiler in the trash and added a high volume oil pump off of a 460 so this saw truly can empty the oil tank before you run out of fuel if you wanted. Open up the muffler a little bit and this saw takes on a brand new attitude. No more crappy lean starting either. I run a 28” Light bar and feel it’s a perfect tool for a tall guy with a sore back. No I probably won’t cut 24”+ wood with this saw because I have a 661 for that so why bend over if you don’t have to???


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