# Late 80's McCulloch 2.0 CID Eager Beaver



## Multifaceted (Jan 11, 2018)

I've searched these forums and elsewhere in the past few months for info on this old saw, and thus far it's been helpful. I'm trying to get this little old saw running reliably again. I have no other use for it, but it was my late father's, who neglected it for the past twenty or so years, probably longer. I want to get it running again, reliably, just to have my old man's saw working, no other reason. When it was being used, it probably only saw maybe 2-3 hours of runtime, so the saw is really only old and has been sitting. The piston head has some fouling, but otherwise seems in good order.

When I found it, the bar was bent and rusted, as was the chain. I got it home, replaced the spark plug, air filter and filled it with fresh gas (50:1). After a few pulls with starting fluid, she fired up and stayed running. Got the carb tuned enough to actually do some work, but it was still running erratic, and was leaking fuel. I ended up disassembling it to replace the fuel line, only to get frustrated with the carb adjustments again and ordered a car rebuilt kit. I then disassembled it again, replaced all of the diaphragms and gaskets, metering lever/needle/spring, and gave the carb a thorough cleaning with carb cleaner and compressed air. In hindsight, I probably should have soaked the metal parts in acetone overnight before reassembling...

After doing all of that, the old girl starts, but stalls out in idle. I've tried resetting and adjusting the hi/lo needles and idle screws to no avail, she starts, runs with the throttle open for a bit, but then stalls out. Sounds throaty, somewhat four stroking, so nothing appears (in my limited experience with 2 stroke engines) to be off. I'm pretty sure I reassembled the carb correctly, but I might need to adjust the height of the metering lever, and I'm thinking of completely overhauling the carb and soaking all of the metal parts in acetone, and the plastic parts in soapy water. The manuals I have found state that it ran McCullouch special 40:1 fuel mixture, but I've been running 50:1 as my other old 2 stroke engines run that fuel ratio well, I just have to regularly clean the spark plugs from fouling up. Should I be running a different fuel/oil ratio?

Does anyone else have any more recommendations on these little old saws? If you have one, then you know how much of a PITA it is to take it all apart, reassemble it just to find out something is still off... Very frustrating saw to work on, but it was my dad's, so I want to put it back in use again.

Here's pics:


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## alexcagle (Jan 12, 2018)

Nice Beaver......lol
I have the cutoff saw version, but it's an ugly, nasty and somewhat "un-Eager beaver".
*
Check your compression.
Check your impulse connection, and that it's clear.
Check your tank vent that it isn't blocked, causing a vacuum buldup, and subsequently leaning the saw out.
Recheck the internal carb screen for debris blockage. It doesn't take much to plug them up sometimes.
If you reused the fuel hose it may be rotting internally, and shedding rubber.


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## Old2stroke (Jan 12, 2018)

Can you be a bit more specific on the problem? Does it run well at full power when cutting (high speed adjust.)? Does it drop to idle properly right after a cut? Does it idle well for awhile and then slow down and die? Does it idle well but bog down and die when the throttle is snapped open? Is the problem the same when the engine is hot or cold. That saw looks like a close cousin to the MiniMac 110 that a lot of us love and most people hate.


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## Multifaceted (Jan 12, 2018)

alexcagle said:


> Nice Beaver......lol
> I have the cutoff saw version, but it's an ugly, nasty and somewhat "un-Eager beaver".
> *
> Check your compression.
> ...



Thanks for the input, I'll look into all of that. I'll have to see if I can borrow a compression gauge. As to the fuel line, it's G2G - I replaced with with a new length of Tygon fuel line, the existing one was cracked and deteriorated. I'm going to proceed with overhauling the entire carburetor and soaking it overnight in acetone, then blow out again low pressure compressed air. There was some considerable varnish around the welch plug, that should NOT need to be sealed or anything, correct?

Also, there isn't a breather on the fuel tank that I can tell, or rather I'm not seeing it. There is one female inlet that has a fine mesh screen on the outside, then a sponge or felt type filter on the inside that I cannot seem to remove or find a replacement. The fuel line connects to the tank inlet via a 1/4" male connector with an o-ring to seal. The fuel line connects the male connector to the barbed fuel inlet to carburetor. On the carb diaphragm plate there is a small 1/4" opening with a screen over it retained by an e-clip, is that the breather perhaps?



Old2stroke said:


> Can you be a bit more specific on the problem? Does it run well at full power when cutting (high speed adjust.)? Does it drop to idle properly right after a cut? Does it idle well for awhile and then slow down and die? Does it idle well but bog down and die when the throttle is snapped open? Is the problem the same when the engine is hot or cold. That saw looks like a close cousin to the MiniMac 110 that a lot of us love and most people hate.



Sorry for not being very descriptive, was very tired when I got home and posted that, thought I had it all covered. Anyway, before replacing the parts in the carb (with new fuel line) the saw was running fairly well without any load, staying in idle and accelerating with the throttle open. When I would tune it in wood, it was a little finicky. When I would adjust the hi speed jets it would hesitate in the cut like it wasn't getting enough fuel, so I would adjust to rich it up, but that would start smoking and then the throttle response would be jerky and hesitant. As the saw warmed up it just became erratic and prior adjustments behaved differently. The same adjustment that was cutting now bogs down during the cut and then it would slow down and stall in idle. That's where I decided that a 25+ year old carb needed to be cleaned and parts replaced.

Fast forward to replacing the parts from the rebuild kit. Saw starts, runs with throttle open, but upon taking the throttle lock off to let idle is quickly slows down then stalls. After a few tries it didn't seem to get enough power for the clutch to engage the sprocket drum and would quickly stall in full throttle and in idle, so I took the bar and chain off to try and adjust the fuel mixture and idle speeds. When it starts, it will not stay in idle and will slow down and stall. I've tried to again rich up the lo jet and idle screw to no avail. In full throttle, it sound slike it's drafting enough fuel. I can keep it going long enough to adjust the hi jet and it's right about where I want it; however, still - when I let off of the throttle, it slows and stalls quickly.

I've reset the screws by seating both, then backing out one full turn as per the 110 manual I found, which I believe to be a similar if not the same saw. This has a yellow air cover; whereas the 110s seem to be black. Not sure if that matters. Even after resetting the screws and trying to adjust from there, the same problems persist. I notice as the saw warms up, the acceleration is hesitant and feels like it's not getting enough fuel, so I'll rich it up a 1/16" turn at a time until it runs better, then stalls at idle. When I start it again, the open throttle then sounds too rich. If the carb was not assembled correctly, it wouldn't run at all, right?


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## alexcagle (Jan 12, 2018)

You may benefit from the "beg for manuals" thread on here.
The idle needs set first, then the high speed.
The female inlet with screen inlet should be the vent. It allows air in, but no fuel to leak out.


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## Multifaceted (Jan 12, 2018)

alexcagle said:


> You may benefit from the "beg for manuals" thread on here.
> The idle needs set first, then the high speed.
> The female inlet with screen inlet should be the vent. It allows air in, but no fuel to leak out.



I have a manual that I found online for the 110 which I believe to be a slightly newer version of the one I have. I have tried various combinations of adjusting the idle using the lo and idle speed screws, at one point I've even gone as far as opening up the look jet a full turn from the basic setting.

I hope it's just some errant build up that got moved from one spot to another when I was spraying it out with carb cleaner. I'm just trying to gather any other possible things to correct so I don't have to keep disassembling and reassembling. You have to take the whole thing apart just to access the carburetor which is mounted to magnetic coil. I can see why so many get frustrated with these little saws, but this was my dad's, so...


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## Trx250r180 (Jan 12, 2018)

Multifaceted said:


> I have a manual that I found online for the 110 which I believe to be a slightly newer version of the one I have. I have tried various combinations of adjusting the idle using the lo and idle speed screws, at one point I've even gone as far as opening up the look jet a full turn from the basic setting.
> 
> I hope it's just some errant build up that got moved from one spot to another when I was spraying it out with carb cleaner. I'm just trying to gather any other possible things to correct so I don't have to keep disassembling and reassembling. You have to take the whole thing apart just to access the carburetor which is mounted to magnetic coil. I can see why so many get frustrated with these little saws, but this was my dad's, so...


I will normally give a carb 2 times with a cleaning ,if that does not work i replace it ,sometimes the crud gets in a little hols and just wont flow fuel right,did you take the h and l screws all the way out and spray carb cleaner in them and get a good flow out the other end when carb was apart ?


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 12, 2018)

Not sure I would use acetone to clean carb with, at least I've never tried it. Just regular carb cleaner should do it..


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## dougand3 (Jan 13, 2018)

Your saw should be a 600xxx model #. Look for a plate. Search web for "McCulloch 600xxx". Normally, can get the exact IPL. 
Eg: An Eager Beaver 2.1ci is 6000157.


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## Multifaceted (Jan 13, 2018)

Trx250r180 said:


> I will normally give a carb 2 times with a cleaning ,if that does not work i replace it ,sometimes the crud gets in a little hols and just wont flow fuel right,did you take the h and l screws all the way out and spray carb cleaner in them and get a good flow out the other end when carb was apart ?



That's my line of thinking as of late, and no, I didn't remove the hi/lo jet screws out when I cleaned it. I'm kicking myself for not doing that now, I suppose at the time I figured that it was running reliably, albeit erratically, so I didn't think to get to those. They're probably gummed up with whatever got loosened up from the carb cleaner. I'll plan on doing that when I take it apart again. I hope this solves the issue because Walbro doesn't manufacture the carb for this saw anymore, nor does any ChiCom knockoff that I know of either...



a. palmer jr. said:


> Not sure I would use acetone to clean carb with, at least I've never tried it. Just regular carb cleaner should do it..



Neither have I, but it also dissolves resin and build up, I think some carb cleaners list it as an active ingredient. I do have aerosol carb cleaner, just figured the acetone would be less wasteful to soak in and save the carb cleaner for spraying out the ports and jets. The acetone would only be used on the metal parts. Either way, I think it would benefit from a good soak fully immersed.



dougand3 said:


> Your saw should be a 600xxx model #. Look for a plate. Search web for "McCulloch 600xxx". Normally, can get the exact IPL.
> Eg: An Eager Beaver 2.1ci is 6000157.



I'll look for that, thank you. Other than using that to source parts and a manual, what else would the IPL help me with finding?


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## Old2stroke (Jan 13, 2018)

If you are going to do a proper job of cleaning old carbs that have been sitting around for a long time, as well as removing the mix screws, you have to remove the welch plugs and see what is lurking under them. Usually a large plug covers a cavity where there are 2 or 3 small holes that supply fuel to the idle port and transfer ports, these have to be clean. A small plug covers the cavity where the main jet gets it's fuel and there could be a small screen there that has to be clean. Also the main jet may have a nozzle check valve that can be a real problem as it has a small rubbery puck that can be damaged by alcohol in the fuel. Sometimes the check valve can be tested by holding a small tube against the valve and doing a suck and blow test on it to see if it seals when you suck and is free when you blow. When putting the carb back together, make sure the gasket for the main metering diaphragm is on the carb side (wet side) and the gasket for the fuel pump diaphragm is on the cover side. The setting of the inlet valve control lever is critical and is usually set flush with the surrounding carb metal but could vary depending on what carb you have.
Do you have a good spark? Do you space the coil tight against the flywheel with a business card as a spacer?
Don't give up, with a little more practice you can get these little beggars apart in 15 minutes.


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## Multifaceted (Jan 14, 2018)

Thanks for all of the pointers and recommendations, fellas. I'll be getting back to the work bench again on this here pretty soon.

@Old2stroke - excellent, these are the types of things I was looking to get, thank you kindly! I'll be wary of the check valve, though I don't think on this one the alcohol would have played a role, I think the last time it had fuel in it was years before refineries started adding ethanol to gasoline/petrol.

As to the spark, it is good, brand new plug and was gapped to 0.025" as per the 110 manual. The coil I spaced with a piece of plastic that was about the same thickness, but it was moving around a bit so I'll look for that again when I reassemble. I'm also thinking that the lever isn't spaced correctly either, this one has a little circular plastic tab with a small pin in the center that sits in a small hole in the metering lever which is actuated by the metering diaphragm. First I've seen one like that, but because of that part I don't think the lever is seated correctly.

All in all, I've generated a nice little checklist and pointers for when I give this another go. I'm feeling pretty confident now that I can get the old girl going again. As to the disassembly, you're right, it's not all that bad and it gets faster each time. The only part I hate is re-attaching he throttle linkage to the plastic throttle trigger. I wish I had a pair of 3-prong pliers just for that task. Again, thanks to all who have chimed in here - cheers!


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 14, 2018)

Although Walbro may not be making that carb anymore they still make carburetors with that prefix (like WA or WT) so it's possible to keep some levers and shafts from your carb and exchange the ones from each carb to conform to your saws needs. Or, if that's not an option you can still find plenty of carbs at old small engine shops because lots of those saws were scrapped out. I had a chance to buy one of those saws last summer for $1 and I declined.


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## Multifaceted (Jan 14, 2018)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Although Walbro may not be making that carb anymore they still make carburetors with that prefix (like WA or WT) so it's possible to keep some levers and shafts from your carb and exchange the ones from each carb to conform to your saws needs. Or, if that's not an option you can still find plenty of carbs at old small engine shops because lots of those saws were scrapped out. I had a chance to buy one of those saws last summer for $1 and I declined.



You can still buy rebuild kits for the carb, so that's good. I do keep a lot of old or unused parts from other equipment for just that reason, so that's good to know. Yeah, these saws have a love hate relationship. There's no middle ground, it seems either folks love them, or they hate them. I'm just trying to get it running because it belonged to my late father.


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## Old2stroke (Jan 15, 2018)

If your control lever has a fork in the end (never seen one with a hole), that button on the metering diaphragm has to be hooked into the fork when the carb is being assembled. One trick that helps when putting it back together, is to hook an elastic band to the end of the throttle wire link and hook the other end of the band to something on the front of the saw, keeps the damn thing from disappearing.


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## Multifaceted (Jan 15, 2018)

Old2stroke said:


> If your control lever has a fork in the end (never seen one with a hole), that button on the metering diaphragm has to be hooked into the fork when the carb is being assembled. One trick that helps when putting it back together, is to hook an elastic band to the end of the throttle wire link and hook the other end of the band to something on the front of the saw, keeps the damn thing from disappearing.



If I remember correctly, one side of the lever has a fork for the metering needle valve, and the other a little hole for the pin on the plastic tab that goes under the diaphragm (unless I'm mistaken, only taken that carb apart once so far). I probably could have done a better job at paying attention when I was taking it apart before reassembling with the new parts, but I think I've got a good idea now. Was hoping to get to it tonight, but ended up getting home late. I like the idea of the rubber band for the throttle link. Got any tricks on snapping that bad boy back in place of the throttle trigger? I always feel like if I press to hard I'm going to break the plastic, then I'll be S.O.L.


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## Old2stroke (Jan 16, 2018)

Yeah, you have to be careful with the plastic piece, I'm usually able to install it by squeezing it in with needle nose pliers. On occasion I have had to use a pair of long needle nose pliers.


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## Multifaceted (Jan 19, 2018)

Many, thanks. Took apart the old girl this evening and put the main metal-only parts into a mason jar full of acetone. After a few minutes I started seeing some gunk settle on the bottom. Will put back together this weekend and get 'er fired up and running well enough, hopefully, to tune in some wood and maybe do some sawing. Thanks again for the help!


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 19, 2018)

Most unusual fuel line and filter. I think mine was crushed somehow and I had to take mine apart several times..I no longer have it.


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## John Lyngdal (Jan 20, 2018)

I wish my work bench was so organized. Best of luck getting the saw to run as it should.
Had a top handle Stihl 015 that I couldn't get to run properly to save my life. Rebuilt the carb and still no joy.
Came across another 015 that had other issues and swapped the cab on to my saw and it ran nicely.
Have no idea what the real issue was with the original carb, but the saw has a new home now and the owner is happy.


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## Multifaceted (Jan 21, 2018)

My bench top being clear like that is a rare occurrence, typically it's scattered with parts and tools with various projects.

Put the carb and saw back together yesterday morning fired it up without the bar on, and she ran, would respond hesitantly to an open throttle, but before I could grab my screwdriver to adjust the mixing screws, it would slow down and die in idle. Then after she warms up, it seems to not want to start as easily, and dies in idle even faster than before. I'll wait a few minutes and try and, she'll fire right up but still slow and shut off in idle. Nothing changes even with minor intermittent hi/lo adjustments.

Going to have to take it apart again, it seems as if it's not drafting enough fuel, perhaps the fuel line is pinched. It tucks under the carb and coil and snaps in place in the bottom of the housing so to line up with the fuel tank connection.


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## bpt323 (May 13, 2018)

any luck???
do you have that craptastic tank filter installed ??(looks like a chunk of fabric/cotton stuffed through the hole)
im having issues with mine not being able to get fuel into the carb


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## Old2stroke (May 14, 2018)

That lame piece of felt that is stuffed in the outlet port of the fuel tank is really the fuel pickup wick and is meant to hold enough fuel to run the saw if it is tipped in some direction where the fuel runs away from the bottom of the tank. There is no fuel line with a dangler filter to follow the fuel around like in most saws. Some of the old McCulloch such as the early D-44 used this system and it really SUCKS. In addition to being a poor way to supply fuel, that felt can dry out and get hard to the point where it won't flow much fuel. I have often pulled the felt wick out and cut off the front part that gets compressed and hard, then reinstalled it to get better flow.


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## Multifaceted (May 15, 2018)

No luck, fellas. I've taken thing apart more times than I care to admit. It'll start up, but stalls quickly like it's not drafting enough fuel. I'll take a look into removing that little felt 'filter' at the bottom of the tank, it's probably stiff as Leather. This thing sat in a dank basement for nearly 25 years unused...


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## dynodave (May 15, 2018)

These have a walbro or zama carb. Zama does not make the kit any more. Supposidly tillitson does make an aftermarket kit for the zama.
You can still get the walbro diaphragm/gasket kit but not the full rebuild kit.
If your saw had E-10 mix in it..it is probably dead and needs a carb kit especially the regulator diaphragm.
Maybe some guys have more experience with them than I.


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## Old2stroke (May 16, 2018)

To verify if the fuel supply from the tank is an issue, with the tank removed just half fill it with fuel and see how fast it dribbles out of the outlet port.


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## Multifaceted (May 16, 2018)

dynodave said:


> These have a walbro or zama carb. Zama does not make the kit any more. Supposidly tillitson does make an aftermarket kit for the zama.
> You can still get the walbro diaphragm/gasket kit but not the full rebuild kit.
> If your saw had E-10 mix in it..it is probably dead and needs a carb kit especially the regulator diaphragm.
> Maybe some guys have more experience with them than I.



I have or used the diaphragm kit when I cleaned the carb, replaced the diaphragms, gaskets, metering lever, spring, and needle, along with new fuel line, air filter and spark plug.


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## Multifaceted (May 16, 2018)

Old2stroke said:


> To verify if the fuel supply from the tank is an issue, with the tank removed just half fill it with fuel and see how fast it dribbles out of the outlet port.



I'll give that a try... Never thought of that, yet it sounds about as simple as it could get.


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## Multifaceted (Jul 14, 2018)

The felt wick filter thing seemed to be flowing some (a slow drip) but I still pulled it out and cut about an 1/8" of the end. Now it leaks from the fuel pickup outlet when I add a little gas mix the the reservoir. While I had the dang thing apart, I disassembled the carb again to make sure nothing was amiss. Sure as you-know-what I noticed that the metering lever arm was not flush with the top of the gasket seat, so I gently bent the arm downward so it sits almost flush, just below the seat. It got late last night so that's as far as I got, it's still disassembled on my workbench _mis en place...._

Will update further if anyone is still interested. Again, it'll start up cold and scream momentarily, but runs out when I let it back down to idle.

To recap: Carb has new gaskets, metering needle, arm and spring. Welch plug was not removed (gasket kit did not include a replacement plug). New fuel line, spark plug, and air filter. Hi/Lo jets were cleaned and reset to default position. Last time this ever had fuel in the tank before I got it was maybe 1988 so I do not suspect any ethanol related issues.


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## Multifaceted (Jul 20, 2018)

Update: the old saw runs and cuts! Finally got the time to put the old girl back together this afternoon. Seems as if trimming the felt fuel filter and correcting the metering lever solved the problem. I did have to start with a little squirt of starting fluid, but it had no problem starting up again warm or cold after about 45 minutes after realizing that I didn't have the bar oil take inlet alligned with the reservoir... Then leaked oil all over my bench and inside the housing...

Anyway, got it all back together and tuned the carb in wood. Cuts pretty good, but will need to slight adjustments later during use.

Very happy to have this running again, it'll be nice to have a little top handle for limbing the small stuff, and this was my late father's saw for when he did a brief stint of tree work in the late 80's


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## heimannm (Jul 20, 2018)

Just a few points -

The carburetor with plastic disc is the Zama (M1-M7), kits are available just about anywhere you look.

The Walbro carburetor is the MDC and kits are also readily available. The Walbro carburetors have a very feeble check valve and there were kits available to replace them but getting them apart to replace the little disc is more challenging that working on a Mini Mac. By the way, except for the Mini Mac 6 (the first release) all models have a removable starter so taking one apart is really a 15-20 minute job. Disconnecting and reconnecting the throttle is the greatest challenge.

The Zama has the plastic disc between the metering diaphragm and the metering lever, the Walbro has a metal tit riveted in place to bear on the metering lever. Neither had a fork like you find on the Walbro SDC and others. The gaskets and diaphragms are virtually interchangeable between the two, but the metering diaphragms are quite different so the parts will not interchange. Believe me, I have really, really tried to switch the MDC into the Zama and you can't make it work.

Always check the metering lever height before assembling the carburetor (flush with the base in the carburetor), a pressure test before reassembling the saw is always a good idea and can save a lot of grief.

The impulse signal comes from the crankcase through the insulator where the carburetor mounts so there is no additional impulse line. A damaged gasket could potentially block the port but in general it is a very reliable system. The plastic insulators over the screws help position the gasket and carburetor to make sure everything is properly aligned when you put it together.

The Mini Mac needs at least 100 PSI compression to run at all. 120 to 140 PSI will run better.

There is no fuel tank vent, evidently they expected the fuel would heat up enough and expand to avoid any excess vacuum issues.

The screen on the outside of the carburetor is the atmospheric vent to the metering diaphragm. Most carburetors have a small hole with no protection so it is not uncommon to find a lot of sawdust dust accumulated on the metering diaphragm; a bit less of an issue on the PM6 and Mini Mac saws with the screen.

Older models did not have the screen in the fuel tank, just a felt filter/wick. Old 2 stroke doesn't think much of the approach but it does provide a significant amount of filter area and also works to absorb any water that might be in the fuel. The only time it is every a problem is when the saw is left for a long time with fuel in the tank that evaporates and leaves a heavy coating of varnish in/on the filter media.

The o-ring in the oiler is an 022 (I think I remember correctly), never a bad idea to replace the o-ring if there is any question to minimize the possibility of bar oil leaking into the crankcase. If the automatic oil pump is badly worn, it may still leak into the crankcase producing a near hydro-lock condition when you try to start the saw. Easiest fix is to leave the oil tank mostly empty to minimize oil leaking into the crankcase. Also a good idea to make sure the oil pumps (manual and automatic) both work before assembling the saw. Work the piston in the automatic pump with your finger and you can watch the oil go down in the inlet (connects to the tank through the "T" fitting) and out the discharge hole. There is only one check valve in the system and it is internal in the automatic pump and is not serviceable. You can replace the manual oiler piston but they rarely fail.

It is also a good idea to pressure/vacuum test the crankcase to make sure there is no leaking seal. It is not uncommon for folks to use these in the grass or weeds so a few wraps around the PTO side crankshaft can take a seal out in a hurry.

At 2 In³ the engine is quite capable, but the handle design makes them somewhat awkward to use for an extended period, I find the little finger on my right hand gets very hot from "counter balancing" against the top of the case when sawing.

My latest Mini Mac project...




The Eager Beaver 2.1 is a 300 Series saw, different animal altogether.

Mark


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## Multifaceted (Jul 21, 2018)

heimannm said:


> Just a few points -
> 
> The carburetor with plastic disc is the Zama (M1-M7), kits are available just about anywhere you look.
> 
> ...



Absolutely incredible write up, thank you for taking the time to respond with this knowledge. I certainly learned a lot over the past 6 months working on this saw, but these points are a great reference for future maintenance. That MiniMac 2.1 definitely is a different animal, instead of Eager Braver it's a Silver Eagle. Pretty cool.

I agree, this saw is a little awkward to use, has a lot of forward bias, not balanced at all.


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## grizz55chev (Jul 21, 2018)

heimannm said:


> Just a few points -
> 
> The carburetor with plastic disc is the Zama (M1-M7), kits are available just about anywhere you look.
> 
> ...


Bravo, sir, Bravo! I’ve worked on a few of these, with minimal success. Could have used this post to increase my probability of hearing the little bastards run properly?


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## Multifaceted (Jul 21, 2018)

grizz55chev said:


> Bravo, sir, Bravo! I’ve worked on a few of these, with minimal success. Could have used this post to increase my probability of hearing the little bastards run properly?



Agreed, this is akin to a MiniMac Rosetta Stone.


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## grizz55chev (Jul 21, 2018)

I’ve spent WAY more time on these little saws than I care to admit, now I just shake my head and say no when I see one. Same thing for weed eaters, just go buy a new one and throw that pita in the trash! If a nice, clean specimen shows up, I’ll give it one try , then place it in the collection or give it back to the owner, weed eaters can bite me!


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## heimannm (Jul 21, 2018)

That Silver Eagle 2014 is actually a Mini Mac not much different from your Eager Beaver, the 2.1 is based on the 300 Series saws.

Mark


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## Multifaceted (Jul 21, 2018)

grizz55chev said:


> I’ve spent WAY more time on these little saws than I care to admit, now I just shake my head and say no when I see one. Same thing for weed eaters, just go buy a new one and throw that pita in the trash! If a nice, clean specimen shows up, I’ll give it one try , then place it in the collection or give it back to the owner, weed eaters can bite me!



I hear ya, brother. I have taken this little thing apart and back together probably 7 or 8 times since January. The good thing is that I'm pretty quick at it now. I had no real need for it, only that it was my old man's. Rather than throw it out, I figured I'd try to get running again.



heimannm said:


> That Silver Eagle 2014 is actually a Mini Mac not much different from your Eager Beaver, the 2.1 is based on the 300 Series saws.
> 
> Mark



Very cool, do you mostly work on McCulloch saws for work or as a hobby?


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## Old2stroke (Jul 21, 2018)

Excellent post by Multifaceted !!
Please don't throw stones at me but I have committed the sin of removing the chain brakes from my "fleet" of Mini Mac 110's, except for one that I keep as a loner and on that one I cut off most of the left part of the handle and the pivot part down by the recoil starter. Brake still works and maybe gives the user some sense of safety. My thinking is I only use these saws with one hand which makes the chain brake release useless, so why not get rid of the ugly damn thing and make it easier to get the clutch side cover off and save a bit of weight at the same time?


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## heimannm (Jul 21, 2018)

There are early versions of the brake on the Mini Mac with a flag at the top only, but later they went with the "full wrap" brake design to insure you would activate it no matter where you bumped the saw in a troubling situation. The 300 and 600 Series saws are the same way. They are ugly and add a few ounces but do lend a small safety factor.




This is a Power Mac (PM) 6 saw but there is a similar brake handle on early brake equipped Mini Mac saws.




Believe it or not, I do this for pleasure as a hobby. I will work on other peoples saws including Mini Macs but that is not my focus or goal.

Mark


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## Beetlejuice (Jul 22, 2018)

I got a kick out of the oil leaking out all over the work bench.. My 2x4 bench will never rust also..


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## heimannm (Jul 22, 2018)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MCCULLOCH-...N-BRAKE-Used/171710510699?hash=item27fabe766b

Mini Mac clutch cover with a simple brake flag.

Mark


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## Multifaceted (Jul 23, 2018)

heimannm said:


> There are early versions of the brake on the Mini Mac with a flag at the top only, but later they went with the "full wrap" brake design to insure you would activate it no matter where you bumped the saw in a troubling situation. The 300 and 600 Series saws are the same way. They are ugly and add a few ounces but do lend a small safety factor.
> 
> View attachment 664486
> 
> ...



I find that niche hobbies are more interesting than most others - I think this is really cool, and again I appreciate the knowledge you have brought to this thread. I can't say that you haven't piqued my interest after looking at your handsome fleet of 110s - they look great! What a neat little saw these are! As someone who restores old tools myself as a hobby - I take my hat off to you. Cheers!


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## Multifaceted (Jul 24, 2018)

@heimannm - how do you feel that the shorter bars run on these saws? It seems from your pictures that your fleet are running 12-14" bars. I put a 16" bar and lo-pro 3/8" chain on mine as that is what was available one night after having a few beers while on Amazon searching for a parts on the above saw.... what can I say - I was excited after getting it to start up after 20+ years of neglect and storage....

The 16" bar seems wholly unnecessary for such a small saw and would probably have more efficient cutting power with a shorter bar. The original bar was bent, rusted, and trash. The chain was junk as well. I acquired the saw shortly after my dad passed, so I didn't pay mind to bar length, chain size, etc. I just grabbed and started working on it one night while trying to cope. I seem to recall it being a 14" bar, but not certain...


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## heimannm (Jul 24, 2018)

Longer bars will extend your reach, and may minimize how much you have to bend over if you use it cutting something on the ground, but 10-14" is all they ever really will pull effectively if you have the bar buried while cutting.

These are "top handle" saws and intended for trimming, not really designed for use as a firewood harvester.

Mark


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## Multifaceted (Jul 25, 2018)

Trimmed is about all I'd ever use it for. Just ordered an OEM 12" bar, chain, and a few more air filters from eBay.


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## Multifaceted (Jul 30, 2018)

Ordered a 12" bar w/ 3/8" LowPro chain, it's about as close to OEM except the bar doesn't read 'Eager Beaver' as it originally was. As unbalanced as this little saw is, it certainly feels better with a shorter bar over the 16". Before the rain came today, I fired her up and did a few test cuts - and she screams. I can easily one-hand this thing, but with a short bar and high revving engine, I think that's probably asking for trouble....

Anyway, here she is in her (almost) former glory:


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## heimannm (Jul 30, 2018)

That is a very clean looking saw, and a clean looking work bench. How do you like that steel peg board? I have a large lot on hand awaiting my new building to be built.

Mark


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## Multifaceted (Jul 30, 2018)

Thank you kindly, that means a lot coming from someone who clearly knows this make and model well. My bench being clean is ephemeral, and when so it is typically in wait for the next project. I am a stickler for organization. An organized shop reflects an organized mind, and both facilitate efficient workflow.

I very much like the steel peg board over the typical MDF variety. Inserts can easily come out often from pulling tools, and I can see the MDF wearing out over time and not retaining the inserts. The damn inserts need to be fastened once their location is determined. Otherwise they come out with the tool when pulling from the board, and fall onto the floor (or workbench if you're lucky). My workspace has gone through an evolution over the past 3 years, so I strive to keep things modular until n I'm content.

Overall, I highly approve of the steel peg board, but I need to find a more secure solution to tool retention once I'm satisfied with the access layout. If I needed to expand my wall storage, I'd go for the same product. The plastic anchors are plenty enough support for light to moderately heavy tools like hammers, etc.


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## Multifaceted (Aug 7, 2018)

Today I scored another little 32cc McCulloch for free... this time it's the newer, plastic-ey step sister to the 110 series... the MAC 3200...

I have no idea if it runs, started taking it apart before I even thought to check the compression. It's dirty as sin, but the piston moves freely and seems to be relatively clean and intact through the cylinder. This one is definitely more of a PITA to disassemble than the Eager Beaver, hopefully I get it right once I rebuild the carb and put it all back together...


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## heimannm (Aug 7, 2018)

The oil pump and the ignition are both problematic on those models.

Mark


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## Multifaceted (Aug 7, 2018)

Good thing it was free... Any success on rebuilding these models, or are they a crap shoot? The plan was to rebuild it as a small firewood saw for a good buddy of mine who on occasion needs to cut wood. Since it didn't cost me anything except parts and time served, I had hoped to embark on a fairly reliable result...

Of course it needs new filters, primer bulb assembly, new fuel supply and oil supply lines, plug, and carb gasket/repair kit. Anything else?


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## Multifaceted (Aug 19, 2018)

Ignition and oiler seem to be a better scenario. I don't know why I didn't do this first, but after putting it back together (I'm talking about tge MAC 3200 now) - it tries to start, fires up, then in 2-3 seconds dies. I checked the compression and sure as shite, I'm only getting a hair over 60 psi. Took of the muffler and intake assemblies to inspect the piston, and through the intake port I'm seeing scoring on the piston.... probably the cylinder wall as well. Oh well, I was only $17 worth of parts and about 2 hours into it.





Piston appears okay here:









But here I see some scoring, used a polymer pick for tactile feedback and I feel a ridge:


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## Chainmale (Aug 19, 2018)

Multifaceted said:


> Absolutely incredible write up, thank you for taking the time to respond with this knowledge. I certainly learned a lot over the past 6 months working on this saw, but these points are a great reference for future maintenance. That MiniMac 2.1 definitely is a different animal, instead of Eager Braver it's a Silver Eagle. Pretty cool.
> 
> I agree, this saw is a little awkward to use, has a lot of forward bias, not balanced at all.


Very unbalanced, I was wondering how much counter balance a 14" bar would give it. It's just way down the list of things to spend money on at the moment


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## Chainmale (Aug 19, 2018)

Multifaceted said:


> Ignition and oiler seem to be a better scenario. I don't know why I didn't do this first, but after putting it back together (I'm talking about tge MAC 3200 now) - it tries to start, fires up, then in 2-3 seconds dies. I checked the compression and sure as shite, I'm only getting a hair over 60 psi. Took of the muffler and intake assemblies to inspect the piston, and through the intake port I'm seeing scoring on the piston.... probably the cylinder wall as well. Oh well, I was only $17 worth of parts and about 2 hours into it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Have you used your compression tester on small engines before? My one is fine on a larger capacity engines, but with something as small as a chainsaw the volume of the hose can be almost equal to the compression chamber of the engine (my near new ms170 was reading 80psi). Where as the hose volume wouldn't have such a dramatic effect on the car engines it was designed for.


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## Multifaceted (Aug 19, 2018)

Chainmale said:


> Very unbalanced, I was wondering how much counter balance a 14" bar would give it. It's just way down the list of things to spend money on at the moment



It was, I found an OEM 12" bar and chain on eBay for $25, now it's much more easily wielded as it is intended, a limbing saw.



Chainmale said:


> Have you used your compression tester on small engines before? My one is fine on a larger capacity engines, but with something as small as a chainsaw the volume of the hose can be almost equal to the compression chamber of the engine (my near new ms170 was reading 80psi). Where as the hose volume wouldn't have such a dramatic effect on the car engines it was designed for.



Funny you should mention that, because this compression tester is new, recently purchased. Before, I borrowed one from a guy at work, who changed jobs a few weeks ago so I bought this on a whim because I needed one again.

Might have to check my other saws for comparison...


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## Chainmale (Aug 19, 2018)

Multifaceted said:


> It was, I found an OEM 12" bar and chain on eBay for $25, now it's much more easily wielded as it is intended, a limbing saw.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I think there's a thread on here somewhere on changing the valve placement or modifying them to reduce the air volume before the guage , I haven't done anything to mine yet. I thought about shortening the hose right down, but could be a pain to get it to thread down tight into the sparg plug hole on some engines then


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## dougand3 (Aug 19, 2018)

With compression tester on tiny engines, you must have a schrader valve in the hose near spark plug hole. And it needs to be a certain one - think it's a white label. It's weaker than a green or red label for bigger engines or a car tire.
Search schrader valve here.


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## Chainmale (Aug 19, 2018)

I've used a few top handle saws for work over the years which I've felt pretty comfortable using one handed, but my Mac 110 is a bit scary limbing up in a tree one handed. Fine for bucking small stuff on the ground though. Was always going to be a hobby/novelty saw to pull out every once in a while though, haven't had the “pleasure” of striping one down too much yet


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## Dave Byron (Jun 30, 2019)

Does anyone have a manual for the eager beaver 2.0 60012312?!?!?


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## Multifaceted (Jun 30, 2019)

Dave Byron said:


> Does anyone have a manual for the eager beaver 2.0 60012312?!?!?



I've referred to this one for the saw in this thread and a few other Mac 110s I've since found.

(PDF Warning)


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## ray benson (Jun 30, 2019)

Dave Byron said:


> Does anyone have a manual for the eager beaver 2.0 60012312?!?!?


Check your inbox for a McCulloch service manual and a small Clymer manual


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## Dave Byron (Jul 4, 2019)

I'm very late/new to this post. But, so far what I've learned about my minimac 6a 60012312 has been indispensible. I agree that removal of the trigger from the throttle linkage was the bain of the breakdown. Busted it!. i did find a relacement at chainsawr.com along with some other parts. 

regarding reattaching the throttle linkage to the trigger... I stripped an inch from a thin-wired twist-tie and wrapped the bare wire once around the throttle linkage. Then I fed the rest of the thin-wired tie through the bolt opening located 1/2" to the right of the trigger slot in the top casting. When the wire is positioned where the throttle linkage makes the bend from the angle to the straight forward portion of the linkage and is pulled snug through the hole to the right, it lines up perfectly. When you reattache the trigger it is perfectly in line for your pliers to make the connection. Youn need only to pull the wire free and out of the hole. A thin enough wire will simply unwind


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## Dave Byron (Jul 4, 2019)

any ideas on how to get the fuel filteer out of the tank? 
Looking from inside the tank is seems like a long square shape, but where it exits the tank at the bottom, it's round. Did they jam a square peg in a round hole?
I'm pretty sure I need to trim it to get and new clean surface... it's surely a long time unsued. I'm able to get it going pretty good at high rpm, but as soon as I release the trigger, shed dies.

Another issue I have is a lot of fluid (lightly brown in color) as I try to start it. It is exiting the muffler. I clear everything away and try to light the fluid. It doesn't burn. Co0uld this still be fuel/oil mix? If I start it witht he throttle all the way on, this doesn't happen.


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## heimannm (Jul 4, 2019)

Square peg in a round hole, yes.

Most likely the automatic oil pump is leaking into the crankcase leaving bar oil behind. There is an o-ring that may need to be replaced. 

Mark


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## Dave Byron (Jul 5, 2019)

My fuel filter is in so tightly that I cannot drive it out back into the fuel tank. Nor can I pull it out of the tank through the fuel cap opening. If I am able to drive it back into the fuel tank through the outlet of the tank using a 1/2" dowel, how do I get it back into place into the tank?

My oil tank is completely empty. So, I am challenged to understand how any chain oil could be leaking into the crankcase. Even so, can you help me identify where this o-ring might be located? I will replace it next time I break it down again.

After the last breakdown and reassembly, I was able to get the engine started and it ran very well at high RPM. Once I release the throttle trigger, she died out just as it has done in the past. I did make adjustments to the idle screw on the carb. Advancing and retracting a few times hoping to release any gunk. I have already disassembled the carb. All gaskets in great shape. Soaked the carb (minus the gaskets and filters) in carb cleaner for 30 minutes. However, I did not remove any of the screws (hi, lo or idle). Any thoughts?

I am a bonafide newcomer to gas engines so all of this is new and challenging to me.
Thanks Mark.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jul 5, 2019)

I always remove the H and L screws when I soak a carb in carb cleaner. Don't forget to mark which one is which.


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## heimannm (Jul 5, 2019)

O-ring is item 12 in the attached file which breaks down the automatic oil pump on the front of the saw.




Mark


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## Huskybill (Jul 5, 2019)

I like these little saws great to carry on the quad to clear trails, I have three mcculloch and two Montgomery wards relabeled macs. My problem is I keep on replacing the fuel line. Same as my 35 yo homey leaf blower.


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## Dave Byron (Jul 6, 2019)

This may sound ignorant on my part but, how could chain oil leak into the crankcase. I would think that these two systems are not connected in any way. Lube goes to the bar/chain... but shouldn't be able to find it's way into the engine/crankcase.


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## Old2stroke (Jul 6, 2019)

Has to do with the design of the oil pump. Pressure pulses from the crankcase drive a rigid diaphragm that moves the piston in the pump, any wear in either of these will let oil get back into the crankcase, especially when the saw is parked hot which puts the oil tank under pressure and thins out the oil. I loosen the oil cap after use and store the saw with the bar pointing down.


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## Dave Byron (Jul 8, 2019)

would this also be the case with the manual oiler system that I have on my saw- 60012312 model?


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## heimannm (Jul 8, 2019)

If the saw is truly manual only, there is no hole in the crankcase for the impulse signal that operates the pump so there should be no path for bar oil to get into the crankcase. If the saw has an automatic oil pump the path will be there and in some cases using the manual pump will actually force bar oil back through the automatic pump directly into the crankcase.

Mark


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## Dave Byron (Jul 9, 2019)

Mostly put back together. Without bar and chain, this engine runs like a dream. UNTIL the throttle trigger is released. Then it dies out every time. I made a few turns in and out of the ide screw but this has no effect. I readjusted the hi and lo screws to fully closed and turned back 3/4 turn for both as this was stated in the mini mac 6 and 6a general service information document that I received from you. I was able to hold the throttle trigger just enough to keep it going and made adjustments to the lo screw. No dice either way. Any more advice?


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## Dave Byron (Jul 9, 2019)

Regarding the fuel filter. It is stiff enough that I can't get it to move to replace it or to cut off the end of it. Is this an issue. If I were able to get it out, is there an alternative material that I could use and scrap the old filter? When I fill the tank when it's disassembled from the saw, I get a flow of a few small drops per second. Seems low. Could the saw be getting enough fuel when the throttle is depressed but not enough when it's in idle from this fuel filter situation? If this is not my fix, I'll break it down again and soak the carb again with the idle, hi and lo screws removed. Any other suggestions once she's broken down again?


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## Old2stroke (Jul 9, 2019)

Dave Byron said:


> would this also be the case with the manual oiler system that I have on my saw- 60012312 model?


The manual oiler is there just to give more oil than the auto oiler provides, pretty sure you have an auto oiler on that saw.
The only way I could get the filter out was to make sure it was as soft as possible by letting it soak in fuel then pressing it out back into the tank. Cut the front squished part off and stick it back in or you could replace it with any felt material. Up here in snow country the felt liner from snowmobile boots works, or any arts shop sells sheets of felt that can be rolled up into a cigar and used.
Don't treat factory setting for the carb screws as gospel, sounds like you have everything too lean. Back the "L" idle mix screw out 1 and 1/2 turns and set the idle speed screw so that the saw is running fast enough for the chain to be moving, then start turning in the "L" to get the fastest steady running (keep adjusting the idle speed as well so that the chain is just moving). Once you get to this point, back the "L" screw out until the chain stops moving and you should be real close to optimum. Finding the sweet spot for the "H" screw is another issue and should be done when you are ready to cut some wood.


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## Dave Byron (Jul 10, 2019)

I have developed a crack in the fuel tank. Does anyone know all the model numbers of these small mccollugh chainsaws that would have a fuel tank to fit mine? Mine is 600-12312 - minimac 6/6a. I have seen a few on ebay but want to be sure it will fit. One says it's for a mccullogh 120 ande looks clean. Would it fit?


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## Dave Byron (Jul 10, 2019)

And, does anyone have a recommendation as to what I can use for a new fuel filter. I hesitate using felt from a craft store for fear of it shedding fibers and thus clogging up the carb. Are there "foam" alternatives that I can use? I wouldn't be looking forward to breaking down over and over to clean the carb.


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## heimannm (Jul 10, 2019)

All of the Mini Mac fuel/oil tanks are interchangeable, and find an OEM fuel filter rather than messing around with something experimental.

Mark


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## Dave Byron (Jul 10, 2019)

since it's broken down again, is it worth it to buy a rebuild kit for the carb? The parts I took apart that would be replaced look absolutely fine as is. Is there something I can see with the naked eye that would warrant a rebuild of the m7?


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## Dave Byron (Jul 10, 2019)

I got my fuel filter out buy driving it back into the fuel tank via the outlet port. Any ideas how I get it back in? It seems in good shape. Plenty pliable. I figured I'd trim off the round end and shove it back in through the outlet port that I pulled it out of. I can't see how you could drive it back in via the tank and try to push it all the way to the end of the outlet port. Still interested in advice on a carb rebuild or not.


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## Dave Byron (Jul 10, 2019)

Ordered a new oem fuel filter, carb rebuild kit, and gas tank.


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## Dave Byron (Jul 12, 2019)

Old2stroke said:


> To verify if the fuel supply from the tank is an issue, with the tank removed just half fill it with fuel and see how fast it dribbles out of the outlet port.



I haven't seen an answer to this question. I have tested mine and it flows at maybe 2 small drops per second. Is This enough fuel flow?


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## Old2stroke (Jul 13, 2019)

Dave Byron said:


> I haven't seen an answer to this question. I have tested mine and it flows at maybe 2 small drops per second. Is This enough fuel flow?


That is not nearly enough fuel flow, If the filter isn't too restricted, it should flow a continuous thin stream rather than drips. I have found that just cutting the front squished part off (about 1/2") and reinstalling the filter greatly improves flow.


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## Dave Byron (Jul 18, 2019)

Thanks to all for input, advice and sharing your experience with me. Saw runs fantastic. One final question... Does anyone know the RPM recommendation for top speed?


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## Willh5080 (Mar 31, 2020)

Thank all of you for the usrful information. Did enyone use electric chainsaw before? I used to use fuel chainsaw befor, but now it is broken and i can't even imagine how to fix it. So i decided that i need new one. I'm choosing between Ryobi RCS2340 and Bosch AKE 40-19 S (i found them here https://www.bestadvisers.co.uk/electric-chainsaws). They looks similar... What you think about them?


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## melkisadeck (May 22, 2020)

Does anyone out there have the electrical specs ie resistances for the electronic ignition system on the Eager Beaver, or have a known good one that they van measure for me? John


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## mexicanyella (May 23, 2020)

Dave Byron said:


> Mostly put back together. Without bar and chain, this engine runs like a dream. UNTIL the throttle trigger is released. Then it dies out every time. I made a few turns in and out of the ide screw but this has no effect. I readjusted the hi and lo screws to fully closed and turned back 3/4 turn for both as this was stated in the mini mac 6 and 6a general service information document that I received from you. I was able to hold the throttle trigger just enough to keep it going and made adjustments to the lo screw. No dice either way. Any more advice?



I was going to suggest that you may have developed an air leak, possibly via worn crankshaft seals or through the pulse-type oil pump...but then you got it running. Shot that theory to hell, but congratulations!

This has been a fun thread to read. I’m glad to see some people persevering and getting these little saws working. I used to dream about getting one of these when I was a kid too young to be handed a chainsaw. Then, several years ago someone gave me a plastic tote full of this series saw powerheads and various related parts. I started assembling and ended up with a couple of 110s, either a 120 or 130 (as best I can recall) and a 160, which had electronic ignition, more black on it and a 16” bar. Every one had pulse pump issues and spark issues and one or two missing pieces but the 160, which ran pretty good for awhile as long as I used the manual oiler.

The awful cramped ergonomics really put me off at first, particularly the balance with the 16” bar, but I was surprised how quickly I got used to it. It wasn’t so bad when you were actually cutting; it was handling the saw out of the cut that felt weird. 

I found that 160 to be really handy for fence construction tasks like cutting a flat face onto round fence posts to attach 5/4” x 6” fence boards, and cutting the boards to length.

Eventually the 160 started leaking a lot of bar oil into the crankcase, and then the ignition module died. I ended up scrapping the Macs and focusing on maintaining my Poulans, but I kind of regretted doing that afterwards. It’s been very interesting reading the repair and assembly tips here; just wish I’d had this to read back then!


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## heimannm (May 24, 2020)

I have noted the specification on the 300 Series electronic ignition coils which should be similar to the Mini Mac version.

Resistance - 6.4K ohm Secondary (High tension to ground)
Inductance - 5.2H
Capacitance - 0.08 micro farads

Mark


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