# Didier splitters



## Wife'nHubby

Here's a spec sheet on Didier's - hope you can read it.







Shari


----------



## Rookie1

Nice job Shari. You are the Didier go-to woman! :yourock:


----------



## 05mxdiesel

Look for a model number tag on it down by pump and hydraulic reservoir. Thanks for that spec sheet wife'nhubby. The house I recently bought had a unmaintained didier left with it. I got it running, used and abused it, and the motor finally gave up. I am currently redoing the whole thing like some others have on here. It has split almost 20 cords for me with no problems, the only thing that gave me problems was some really large locust but after working it a little, it all split up. That price seems a little steep but with a new motor, it doesn't seem too bad. These machines need nothing except normal yearly maintenance and gas.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Hey, don't compliment me - all the compliments go to members on this list who helped me put ours back together last year (a woman who never even changed oil on a car!)

There's a whole sub-group of Didier owners here on the list. A lot of owners have remodeled their Did's basically to raise the height. The tires are small so it sits low to the ground but I am short so Did's height doesn't bother me too much. 

Attached is a pic of ours in process of being put back together. I was originally a bit embarrassed that good ol' "Did" is so greasy so I was going to clean it off but thought better of it as it sits outside all the time with just a tarp on it.






"Did" has new hoses now, routed a bit different than shown in the photo. He hasn't let me down yet!

By the way, vintage is in the 1970's somewhere.

Shari


----------



## 05mxdiesel

Here is a crappy pic of mine sitting on ghetto blocks to get it up to a good working height. The old briggs finally locked up a couple of weeks ago.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Forgot to add: We paid around $150US for it about 8 yrs. ago with an iffy engine and leaky cylinder. Ran it that way the first year then put a new (5.5hp?) BS engine on it at a cost of around $185. Last year rebuilt the seals on the cylinder ($70) and in spring of this year replaced 2 hyd. hoses & spyder ($25). Total investment around $430US with repairs/replacements done but it has been in use those 8 yrs. also running around 12-15 cord of wood through it.

I looked at the repair costs as minimal considering the cost of a new splitter.

Would I sell it for $430US? To each his own but it is worth more than that to me.

Shari


----------



## Wife'nHubby

05mxdiesel said:


> Here is a crappy pic of mine sitting on ghetto blocks to get it up to a good working height. The old briggs finally locked up a couple of weeks ago.



Looking good there, mxd. I could raise ours that way also but then I'd probably be too short to pull the recoil to start the engine unless I used a step stool! 

Shari


----------



## WetGunPowder

Wife'nHubby said:


> Hey, don't compliment me - all the compliments go to members on this list who helped me put ours back together last year (a woman who never even changed oil on a car!)
> 
> There's a whole sub-group of Didier owners here on the list. A lot of owners have remodeled their Did's basically to raise the height. The tires are small so it sits low to the ground but I am short so Did's height doesn't bother me too much.
> 
> Attached is a pic of ours in precess of being put back together. I was originally a bit embarrassed that good ol' "Did" is so greasy so I was going to clean it off but thought better of it as it sits outside all the time with just a tarp on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Did" has new hoses now, routed a bit different than shown in the photo. He hasn't let me down yet!
> 
> By the way, vintage is in the 1970's somewhere.
> 
> Shari


Looks alot like a JD 5 splitter they had in the early 80's. Wonder if Didier made it for them?


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Didier was sold under the following names:

Sears (Craftsmans)

Agway

John Deere

Poulan

Panther

Savage

Hydra-Splitter

Farnam

Montgomery Ward


Foster Mfg. was the manufacturer.

There is a small parts list here: http://web.archive.org/web/20051218201319/www.fostermfgcorp.com/forester/Didier+parts.html


History of Didier:

"A very appropriate name for a "Log Splitter" that was designed to handle and manage any of the trees found in the forest. A bold statement, it certainly is, but it is being made by a company's management that introduced log splitters to the mass markets in the mid-1970's. 
The management team of Foster Mfg. Corp. started building log splitters under the company name of Didier Mfg. Very quickly our log splitters were being built under such brand names as Hydra-Splitter, Panther, Savage as well as John Deere, Poulan, Sears and many others.

The company known as Didier Mfg. was sold in 1979, the management team started Foster Mfg. Corp. Over the past twenty years, many products with identities to various industries have been developed and manufactured by Foster Mfg. Corp. Many of our products have evolved around our strong hydraulic experience.

After many years of not being able to re-enter the log splitter market because of restraints stemming from the sale of Didier, we now find it possible to re-enter the market and do so with a "Good Splitter" and a "Strong Conviction". The log splitter offered by Foster Mfg. Corp. offers a quality splitter at an unmatched value. The Foster Log Splitter is backed by a strong "Service Oriented" company with many years of manufacturing experience."

Shari


----------



## specter

*Just given a didier splitter*

I was just given a didier log splitter sure looks similiar to the one that you have posted. Do you have a contact for parts & info on these splitters. I have searched online for days and only found out company was bought by Foster MFG in 1979! 

The splitter I was given does actually work but leaks out the cylinder end cap and where the piston rod comes out of the end cap. I have tried to take off the end cap but it only seems spin around like maybe it is stripped. Is there some trick to getting this end cap off the cylinder??? The label says its a model 7 I

Thanks for any info

Tom


----------



## specter

*Found clip channel*

I found what appears to be a retaining pin/clip channel about 1" behind the cylinder end cap! One half of the pin is missing in what appears that the pin/clip might have been broken off. About 1/4 - 1/2" of the pin/clip remains deep in the channel. Not enough of the pin/clip there to grab on to pull it out. Found what I can see it appears if the pin/clip could be removed the end cap would come off the end of the cylinder. 

I am trying to hack saw the top of the cylinder right above the cylinder where the remaining portion of the pin/clip remains. But that pin/clip is playing hard to get out. I may end up removing the cylinder off of the log splitter so I can get my air cutter to get a better angle at the cut above the channel. I figure once I get the remaining pin/clip out and end cap off I will removed the cylinder piston clean up the cylinder and weld the cut area of the cylinder back! Then grind and polish the area rebuild the piston, cylinder etc and put it back together.

Way I figure !! If I can fix it fine!! If not well time for a new cylinder.

:deadhorse: Hopefully this splitter is not dead yet


----------



## Wife'nHubby

specter,

Welcome to the "Didier Group"! By the way in the picture you posted the engine is not original but then again mine is not either. Best of luck with the repair - it is worth doing. Check out the #8 bolts by the ram carriage as they do tend to come loose every now and then.

By the way, your splitter should work out to be 12.5 ton - I've only had a very few rounds that I can't split & then I just nibble around the outside edges until it splits. 

Shari


----------



## specter

Thanks for the reply. I am still working on getting that pin/clip out of that channel.


----------



## wigglesworth

Wife'nHubby said:


> By the way in the picture you posted the engine is not original but then again mine is not either.



I beg to differ. My Didier, sold my Montgomery Wards, has the same Gold 5hp briggs on it. Still runs like a top.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

wigglesworth said:


> I beg to differ. My Didier, sold my Montgomery Wards, has the same Gold 5hp briggs on it. Still runs like a top.



Well, then, I stand corrected. We replaced the motor on ours years ago and I recall the engine we removed was not 'gold' so our splitter is probably on it's 3rd engine.

Shari


----------



## rancher2

Wife'nHubby said:


> Hey, don't compliment me - all the compliments go to members on this list who helped me put ours back together last year (a woman who never even changed oil on a car!)
> 
> There's a whole sub-group of Didier owners here on the list. A lot of owners have remodeled their Did's basically to raise the height. The tires are small so it sits low to the ground but I am short so Did's height doesn't bother me too much.
> 
> Attached is a pic of ours in process of being put back together. I was originally a bit embarrassed that good ol' "Did" is so greasy so I was going to clean it off but thought better of it as it sits outside all the time with just a tarp on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Did" has new hoses now, routed a bit different than shown in the photo. He hasn't let me down yet!
> 
> By the way, vintage is in the 1970's somewhere.
> 
> Shari



I had one that looked just like yours except it was three point tractor mounted made with a JD label on it. It had not been used much before I bought it for $200.00 and used it for years and split a lot of wood with it never had any problems with it so I never knew the model number of it. About 8 years ago we quiet selling and burning wood for a few years so I sold it for $600.00. Sure wish I wouldn't have sold it as now I could use it as we are back burning wood .It was a nice little splitter.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

My splitter looks much nicer now.  It has all new hoses and has been cleaned up quite a bit since this thread was started. Since the repair it has split around 10 cord of wood. Sweet!

Shari


----------



## songofthewood

Shari...any pics of the splitter after new motor and hoses?


----------



## Wife'nHubby

The motor is the same as in the photo so no change there but no I don't have any newer photos. I'll see if I can get some.

Shari


----------



## specter

*Many THANKS to Shari*

Many THANKS go out to Shari for emailing me a copy of the original owners manual and sale brochure! That sure helped me figure this splitter out.

I only have about 1/4" of the pin still stuck in the channel to remove. I already found a place that can sell me all the seals I need to rebuild the cylinder.

TOM


----------



## Tambia

*Didier splitter manuals or hydraulic information needed*

Does anyone have any kind of manuals for the Didier splitter? I have had mine for about 18 years, let someone borrow it and they did some damage as well as changes. I put a new motor on it, runs great, but I am having problems with the ram moving too slow. It seems that the hydraulic lines have been changed and possibly moved. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
My name is Tambia and my e-mail is [email protected]. Winter is almost here and I have about 5 cords to split.


----------



## specter

*sent you copy*

Hi Tambia,

I sent you a copy of the manual that Shari sent to me. I hope you find it helpful.

Tom


----------



## rusty shackel

we have a splitter bought new from agway in 1978 [spring] still with the same briggs [ ya its gold] it uses engine oil for hyd oil sae 30 weight 
splittmany a cord of wood with that .
BTW 1978 price was from the agway bill was a little over 700.00 dollars!


rusty s


----------



## specter

*same engine*

Using the manual I see that I have the original 5 hp engine. Its good to know that this splitter is a good one. My next door neighbor just a splitter and spent 1 grand. Knowing I got a good working splitter for free "priceless':biggrinbounce2:


----------



## specter

*possessed cylinder*

Well I finally got that pin/clip out. I got the end cap to only come out 9/16"!!?? Is this thing possessed or what. The end cap freely spins in and out to the 9/16" point then stops from coming out all the way. I tried blowing out the cylinder piston using an air compressor! The piston rod will come out most of the way then stop with the end cap still free spinning but not coming off all the way. Its like something is preventing the cap from sliding off all the way.

Has anyone ever got one of these end cap off? if so how did you do it?


----------



## Tambia

*Thanks for the manual*



specter said:


> Hi Tambia,
> 
> I sent you a copy of the manual that Shari sent to me. I hope you find it helpful.
> 
> Tom




Tom,
I can't thank you enough for sending the manual to me so quickly. It helps to see how it should look, and where all of the hydraulic lines should be as well. Mine hasn't worked in some time and it is great to have the "Old Girl" running again. 
Thanks again Tambia


T


----------



## specter

*glad it helped you*

I am glad that the manual help you out.

As for me I am spending some time today to see if I can finally get that end cap off that cylinder. I figure if somebody got it on then I ought to be able to get it off so I can get the new seals for that cylinder.

Tom


----------



## ronr

The area in the end of the cylinder that has what looks like a wide saw cut part way around the OD of the tube is grooved all the way around the ID. The gland nut has a similar grove around the OD with a hole drilled in the bottom of the grove at one point. After the nut is put in the end of the tube a piece of square stock with a hook bent in the end is inserted in the notch in the tube, the hook goes in the hole drilled in the nut. You then turn the nut which pulls the square stock into the grooves, locking the nut into the tube. 

As far as what it is stuck on there is an o ring on the nut after the groove. When you pull the nut out it gets stuck in the groove cut into the ID of the tube, you can see it in the slit in the tube. I know it doesn’t seem like an o ring would hold it up but it does, and can be a bear to get out. I think the last one I did I cut the o ring and pulled it out of the slit in the tube with some forceps. 

One other thing, the sliders that wrap around the I beam wear out this then can put a bending load on the rod end and breaks the rod end off right where the threads meet the unthreaded portion of same.


----------



## specter

Thanks ronr what you described matched what cylinder services told me. Today I finally got the new seals installed as well as that infamous clip/pin. Put it all together, changed oil, hydraulic fluid, and spark plug & some fresh gas. plug cord to start it started right off. Cycled the splitter a few times to get air out of lines then split an 18" round apple log with no problems.


----------



## ronr

Good deal, glad to hear you got it going.


----------



## specter

*filter*

Yep I am glad that I got it working too. I am amazed that it works as well as my neighbors new log splitter.

I was curious as to why it had a hydraulic filter on the hi pressure side of the splitter??!! My neighbors new splitter has the filter on the return line ?? Wouldn't it be better to have the filter on the feed line between the hydraulic tank and the pump in order to filter out crap before it goes thru the splitter??

The filter it did have on the hi pressure line imploded the brass filter inside! Yes parts of that filter were found in the splitter valve and cylinder. Those bits and pieces are properly what torn the seals and o rings a part.

*:dunno:*


----------



## triptester

On log splitters there is never a filter on a high pressure line. The filter is usually in the return line which could reach 15 psi max. before the bypass in the filter base opens. Some splitters have the filter in the suction line between the tank and pump which is subject to vacuum but no pressure.

The only high pressure lines on a splitter are between ,the pump and control valve, and the control valve to cylinder ports.


----------



## richt100

*My Didier*

[I am in the process of replacing the hydraulic hose(s) on my Model MF. My spinger spaniel has two modes of operation, play and hunt. When he gets in the hunt mode he tends to go out of his mind. In this case he decided to chew my hydraulic hoses. Most likely trying to get a mouse that took up residence in the engine (4 1/2 hp Briggs and Stratten (sp). I am having a little trouble finding the proper fittings for the hoses. Had a little trouble getting the old ones off. The splitter works very well. I have had it for 20+ years with no problems until JAKE.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

richt100 said:


> [I am in the process of replacing the hydraulic hose(s) on my Model MF. My spinger spaniel has two modes of operation, play and hunt. When he gets in the hunt mode he tends to go out of his mind. In this case he decided to chew my hydraulic hoses. Most likely trying to get a mouse that took up residence in the engine (4 1/2 hp Briggs and Stratten (sp). I am having a little trouble finding the proper fittings for the hoses. Had a little trouble getting the old ones off. The splitter works very well. I have had it for 20+ years with no problems until JAKE.



 Way to go, Jake!  I've got some pickle jars I can't get the lids off... 

richt100 - I noticed this is your first post - welcome! You will find a great group of people here with a stunning wealth of knowledge! 

As to the hoses Jake 'ate', the manual I have lists part numbers but that won't help as the Didier is no longer made. You have probably already checked out a hydraulic supplier or two. Granger may also have what you need & they have a website. I've had great luck finding what I need at a local farm implement store.

Shari


----------



## 2coldHere

*Didier Shuts Off @ Cylinder Stop*

I have a 1979-ish Didier Model HA19M splitter that I just revived. It's the first splitter I ever had (used to split with a go-devil but age caught up with me and I tore my rotator cuff and have tendinitis that same elbow and arthritis in that hand: no more axe-swinging for me). I don't know much about them but mine does something weird; well, seems weird to me.

I'll put on a log. Then I'll push the ram's handle down to make the ram go forward. It works fine till it hits its max extension point. Once it hits that point it immediately stalls my engine. I have to re-start the engine and put the handle in reverse.

Same thing in the reverse cycle. Ram retracts fine, but when it fully retracts and hits its max "in" spot it immediately stalls my engine.

If I keep a close eye on how far out or in I'm moving the ram I can avoid stalling the engine by just not going to the max out or max in, manually letting go of the hand lever before the ram gets that far.

But as I get caught up in splitting I sometimes forget to watch exactly how far the ram has gone and I extend it to its max and stall the engine.

It's a real pain in the neck because I have to keep yanking on the starter cord every 5 minutes or so.

Is that action (stalling the engine when the ram extends fully) normal? Do all splitters do that? If it's a malfunction, what's your best guess about what's wrong and how to fix it?

also, anbody have an owner's manual or other info you could send me on my Didier Model HA19M (5HP B&S black painted engine)? Can't find much at all on the net other than the old company became Forrester.

Thanks!


----------



## specter

*Reply*

Only problem I have had since I got mine up and running was the spark plug clip that fits over the top of the plug!! The clip was cracked and when the splitter was running the vibrations would shake the clip and cause misfiring as well as sometimes causing the motor to shut down. I went to NAPA parts store and got new clip and a boot to help hold the clip onto the plug. Works good now.

As for the manual I can send you a copy of the manual that Shari sent to me.

PM your email and I'll email you that copy.

Tom


----------



## bigblock73

ronr said:


> The area in the end of the cylinder that has what looks like a wide saw cut part way around the OD of the tube is grooved all the way around the ID. The gland nut has a similar grove around the OD with a hole drilled in the bottom of the grove at one point. After the nut is put in the end of the tube a piece of square stock with a hook bent in the end is inserted in the notch in the tube, the hook goes in the hole drilled in the nut. You then turn the nut which pulls the square stock into the grooves, locking the nut into the tube.
> 
> As far as what it is stuck on there is an o ring on the nut after the groove. When you pull the nut out it gets stuck in the groove cut into the ID of the tube, you can see it in the slit in the tube. I know it doesn’t seem like an o ring would hold it up but it does, and can be a bear to get out. I think the last one I did I cut the o ring and pulled it out of the slit in the tube with some forceps.
> 
> One other thing, the sliders that wrap around the I beam wear out this then can put a bending load on the rod end and breaks the rod end off right where the threads meet the unthreaded portion of same.



Hey Guys
I'm a happy Didier splitter owner
The best I can tell,it's an early one
Still has the original engine,that I've gotten to run well
The best part is I traded a 1/2 cord of wood that they split themselves for it
I had the hydraulics gone threw with all the seals replaced

Here's my issue
One other thing, the sliders that wrap around the I beam wear out this then can put a bending load on the rod end and breaks the rod end off right where the threads meet the unthreaded portion of same.[/QUOTE]

This is what happened to me
Is there anyone who sells the sliders and cylinder or just the rod?

Thanks in advance


----------



## brnchbrkr

*Official Didier Owners Thead?*

This looks like what I picked up on Craigs List this spring. ;-)

I Could use a manual if any are still floating about.

Have to replace the Hydraulic Fluid and wondering what was recomended?

Thanks.

Didier has done pretty well for my needs. Been splitting everything I have so can't complain. Will look harder for ID but haven't seen anything yet.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

brnchbrkr said:


> This looks like what I picked up on Craigs List this spring. ;-)
> 
> I Could use a manual if any are still floating about.
> 
> Have to replace the Hydraulic Fluid and wondering what was recomended?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Didier has done pretty well for my needs. Been splitting everything I have so can't complain. Will look harder for ID but haven't seen anything yet.



PM me your email address for a cc of manual.

Shari


----------



## brnchbrkr

Message Sent!

Thanks!!


----------



## bigblock73

Got an update
Had a local machine shop make new guides $190
Mig welded the threaded end back on the rod 

Split about 3/4 cord and all is well


----------



## brianell

So, got one of these splitters.
Original Briggs 5hp 206cc engine, I think it may have been listed as rebuilt when I bought it, dont recall.

Im at ~8500 feet, and it wants to stall fairly easy. Im thinking its running to rich, is there an easy way to adjust mixture a little?


----------



## brnchbrkr

Might try the screw under the float bowl....


----------



## bigblock73

Another update
I was having problems with the original engine dyeing while splitting
I turned the engine speed all the way up
It was a little better but would still dye

I got a flier from Harbor Freight with a coupon for a 6.5 hp engine for $109.
I thought for that price I would give it a try

Took about an hour to do the swap
It was a direct fit
It's like a new machine
I put it at 3/4 throttle and it splits everything without a problem

The engine is easier to start and runs well


----------



## Jimtait8

*New Member*



specter said:


> Well I finally got that pin/clip out. I got the end cap to only come out 9/16"!!?? Is this thing possessed or what. The end cap freely spins in and out to the 9/16" point then stops from coming out all the way. I tried blowing out the cylinder piston using an air compressor! The piston rod will come out most of the way then stop with the end cap still free spinning but not coming off all the way. Its like something is preventing the cap from sliding off all the way.
> 
> Has anyone ever got one of these end cap off? if so how did you do it?



I have a Didier splitter I bought 10 years ago for 200.00 It splits 48" logs I changed the original gold motor after two years and have split at least 100 cords.The seal on cylander is leaking and Im having problems getting the cap off the broken pin -clip thing any suggestions on getting it out.Also any information on where to get new seals would be helpful.I had no idea there were other Didier owners out there I thought it was homemade thanks Jim


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Jimtait8 said:


> I have a Didier splitter I bought 10 years ago for 200.00 It splits 48" logs I changed the original gold motor after two years and have split at least 100 cords.The seal on cylander is leaking and Im having problems getting the cap off the broken pin -clip thing any suggestions on getting it out.Also any information on where to get new seals would be helpful.I had no idea there were other Didier owners out there I thought it was homemade thanks Jim



First off: I see this is your first post to AS! Welcome!

PM me your personal email and I will send manuals - they might help - they might not - can' t send attachments thru the list... Click on my name at the left - the PM link is there.

Shari


----------



## acme0007

*dider for sale*

hey all I have a spare wards splitter/Dider for sale here in Omaha $ 475, probably take $425 for it. Newer 5hp honda, new return hoses flushed fluid, rebult cylinder, and did some work to push plate, stock is pretty weak. well it works great for smaller stuff and being low makes it much easier to load logs. I will try to load a pic. thanks.


----------



## DWittenbreder

*my little animal*

I bought mine about 10 yrs. ago used...they used it for 20yrs+ and I've split at least 100 cord w/ it. changed out the 5hp. and bolted on a 10 hp. that I got for free!!! small enough to wheel by hand behind a house w/ no access...but I can still split 2ft.+ logs!!!(I added a bigger pump 25gmp 2 stage) must take some pics tomorrow!!:biggrinbounce2:


----------



## h20togo

*Didier Agway Model 26 , cant get end cap off to replace seals*

I have a Agway Didier log splitter that my father had purchased new from Agway back proll in the 70s maybe early 80 he was an Agway employee, My brother inlaw borrowed it and messed up the motor ( the orig gold briggs) somehow he managed to screw up the crankshaft . so unfortunatly I replaced it with a newer model briggs 5hp and it works great but the hydraulic seal leaks even when its not running. From one of the partrs manual illustrations I seen shared on another thread on here I have the H5 hex shaped end cap which I thought turned but aparently isn't threaded. I understand that the slot just below the cap has a type of retaining clip but I just dont understand how you remove it .


----------



## tomtrees58

i got this one for $60.00 and put a new motor on it just a spear one


----------



## Bucko

Look closely, can you bump that hex cap inward enough to expose that retaining clip?


----------



## tomtrees58

just get one of these $125.00


----------



## h20togo

I can see some piece of metal that passes by the opening in the top when I rotate the hex cap I thought it was a catch so i put a screw driver in it but the cap still rotated but the piece of metal stopped but how do you remove that clip from inside groove ?


----------



## h20togo

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5368562530/" title="0118011658a by ed_feldmann, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5202/5368562530_2487881408.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="0118011658a" /></a> How do you get the clip out of this slot?


----------



## h20togo

Okay I've got the retaining clip visible in the slot I tried to spread it open with my snap ring pliers but it doesn't seem to budge, how do you remove this clip ? <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5368562530/" title="0118011658a by ed_feldmann, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5202/5368562530_2487881408.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="0118011658a" /></a>


----------



## h20togo

Ok I got the retainer clip visible in the slot to where I can see both ends , I tried to spread it open with my snap ring pliers but its not budging what am I doing wrong? <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5368562530/" title="0118011658a by ed_feldmann, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5202/5368562530_2487881408.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="0118011658a" /></a>


----------



## h20togo

I've got hte retaining clip visible in the slot on the cylinder I've tried to spread it apart with my snap ring pliers but it doesn't budge what am I doin wrong?


----------



## Bucko

Ok, how about compressing it, just enough to get a small screwdriver under so you can work it around the outer barrel.


----------



## h20togo

Thanks for the manuals Shari!!!


----------



## Bucko

disregard that last post, wont work


----------



## h20togo

the more i look at it it looks like its just a hole maybe bored down into the sleeve of the outer seal retainer cause it turns when i turn the hex shaped seal holder on the end of the cylinder


----------



## h20togo

*I got it!!!!!!!*

Ok folks thanks for the help I finally understood what ronr was explaining about the long piece of metal that hooks into the round bore in the cylinder cap I had to pry it up onto the slanted edge of the slot cut into the side of the cylinder it was hidden inside the groove and not visible I pushed it around to where i could grab it with a thick metal coat hanger after i pulled it out I just used a pulled and the seal cap came right off the cylinder tube, I'm postin a picture of the metal retaining strip and the cylinder end cap with the bore hole showing so anyone else that has this problem has a reference thanks again !


----------



## Wife'nHubby

h20togo:

Welcome to the "Didier Family" here on AS!

Shari


----------



## Jimtait8

Where were you guys a few weeks ago when I was having the same problem.I ended up destroying the cylinder trying to get it apart sometimes I'm my own worst enemy Jim


----------



## mama

*spliter*

I've had my splitter about three years now. Its starting to die under even the smallest load, maybe the motor is shot, I believe its the original 5 hp B&S.I did notice its going through alot more oil than before. I got it from the guy that had it for 20 yrs. Next season I'll look for a bigger horse motor.


----------



## h20togo

Yeah it sounds like your rings are shot if your losing oil and power. I put a newer used 5hp briggs off a pressure washer on mine and I"ve been splittin some unbelievably big logs with it just fine I don't really see the need for a bigger motor you'd be suprised how much power a good running 5hp has and you'll be saving some cash . and once again thanks to everyone for the hints and tips and manuals, my dad really enjoyed using this log splitter and he bought it from agway from which he had worked for agway feeds for over 35 years, and when my brotherinlaw borrowed and didn't take good care of the splitter I was pissed. But i was so happy when I got the new motor fired up and running and started splitting wood with it again to heat my won home it felt good cause I know if my father was stile alive he would be happy to see it going. and when the seal blew out and I couldn't figure out how to correctly fixit with out damging it at all trying I was stressed so this really means great deal to me to know that I have it apart and can now get the seals and once again put it back to use cause I've got another 20 cord of wood still waiting.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Yeah, you can split some pretty big stuff with a Didier........







Shari


----------



## Shiftomatic

*Where can I find a seal kit?*

Thanks for sharing all the info on the Didier splitter!

I'm trying to get mine working again. I have a Model MF26 and have replaced the pump and motor over the years and now I'm 98% sure the seals in cylinder seals need to be replaced. When trying to split even small 8" clear oak, it loads up indicating that the pump is operating in 2nd stage but only a dent is made in the log. This tells me there is leakage inside the cylinder at high psi. It is possible that the seals are worn out as well as the cylinder lining. Anybody out there replace the seals and still have these issues? Should I replace the whole cylinder?

The cylinder stats are as follows:
Bore: 3.5 inch
Rod: 1.5 inch
Stroke: 24 inch
Type: CH

Searching online for the seal kit number 200362 reveals that the kit is no longer available. But with several of you replacing the seals I know they are out there. I have read through the posts and found comments indicating a local tractor shop may have the parts...

Can anybody provide any more details on replacement seal kits or specific store names where you have found the kits?

Thank you!


----------



## Wife'nHubby

I'm not a pro at splitter repair by any means, but before you start tearing into seals check to make sure your hyd. hoses are not collapsing when running the stroke. Also, check your hyd. fluid level. When our seals failed, believe me we knew it (fluid geysered up in the air).

Shari


----------



## Shiftomatic

Wife'nHubby said:


> I'm not a pro at splitter repair by any means, but before you start tearing into seals check to make sure your hyd. hoses are not collapsing when running the stroke. Also, check your hyd. fluid level. When our seals failed, believe me we knew it (fluid geysered up in the air).
> 
> Shari


 
Thanks Shari,

I have experienced the geyser from the old pump, the heads on a few of the bolts that held it together were missing. I replaced the pump and hoses about 2 years ago.

I'm suspecting an internal leak from the back side of the ram past the seals to the rod side of the ram. This type of leak would not be visible unless the rod seals were leaking too.

I'll double check that my return line is not collapsing as it does have a bend that is a bit tight, but it is a fairly new hydraulic grade suction hose and I think it is OK. Fluid level is up.

Thanks!


----------



## tomtrees58

thear ok for a homeowner


----------



## Markjewell

*Piston Cylinder Cap*

Thanks to everyone for their great input.

As far as the piston cylinder cap, it sounds like you snake the retaining ring/wire out of the exterior groove on the piston assembly. When one reassembles, how the heck does this retainer go back in to secure this cap?

Also, I would be so appreciative if someone could e-mail one of these rare manuals for my Didier ([email protected]) . I know that it has a 4 inch piston and splits up to approximately 24-26 inches.

Thanks!


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Mark,

Manual (2 attachments) on the way to your email.

Shari


----------



## specter

*O ring kit and retaining clip*

To get a O Ring kit for my splitter I went to Hydraulic Cylinder Services in Rochester NY. I brought the cylinder and end cap with me. Using a set of calipers they measured the differences between piston rod and cylinder and then the cap and the cylinder. The cap gave them the measurements they needed. The complete kit was just over $17 and for $1 more they even threw in the retaining clip.

To install the retaining clip is the opposite of removing it. Simply install the end cap onto the end of the cylinder until you see the retaining grove visible through the notch on the outside of the cylinder. Next insert the tapered end of the retaining clip into the grove through the notch. Now spin the end cap around while pushing the retaining clip into the grove. BE SURE TO LEAVE ABOUT 3/4" -1" OF THE CLIP OUTSIDE THE NOTCH. BEND THE CLIP UP ON AN ANGLE SO THAT ENOUGH IS ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE CYLINDER. THIS EXTRA POSTION OF THE CLIP STICKING OUT OF THE CYLINDER WILL MAKE IT EASY TO REMOVE THE CLIP AT A LATER DATE SHOULD YOU HAVE TO.


----------



## Markjewell

*Didier Manual & Piston Rebuild*

First of all, Thanks goes out to Shari for e-mailing the Didier manual and sales brochure to me! Great fun to look this over.

Thanks also to Specter for the discussion on the retaining clip. Does this wire/clip have a small 90 degrees bend in it that fits in the hole of the end cap as you turn the cap to "pull" the retaining clip into the groove or bore?

Also, if I go this far, how tough is it to put a seal kit in this piston? The piston works fine, but leaks when using it (not a "pressure" leak) and it made a heck of a mess in my shed over the winter due to the front seal leaking.
I bought the splitter 25 years ago with the piston rod welded to the push plate. I guess I will have to grind the weld out. I am guessing that it is probably broken right at the thread area...

Does anyone know how close their piston push plate gets to the splitting knife at full stroke? Mine is about 1 1/2 inches away, which can be a pain on the real stringy stuff as the splitting is not complete... 

Thanks to all.

Mark


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Markjewell said:


> First of all, Thanks goes out to Shari for e-mailing the Didier manual and sales brochure to me! Great fun to look this over.
> 
> Thanks also to Specter for the discussion on the retaining clip. Does this wire/clip have a small 90 degrees bend in it that fits in the hole of the end cap as you turn the cap to "pull" the retaining clip into the groove or bore?
> 
> Also, if I go this far, how tough is it to put a seal kit in this piston? The piston works fine, but leaks when using it (not a "pressure" leak) and it made a heck of a mess in my shed over the winter due to the front seal leaking.
> I bought the splitter 25 years ago with the piston rod welded to the push plate. I guess I will have to grind the weld out. I am guessing that it is probably broken right at the thread area...
> 
> *Does anyone know how close their piston push plate gets to the splitting knife at full stroke? Mine is about 1 1/2 inches away*, which can be a pain on the real stringy stuff as the splitting is not complete...
> 
> Thanks to all.
> 
> Mark



Mine comes to within 1/2" but I 'think' a prior owner added a piece of 1" plate behind the cylinder - which moved everything forward to avoid the issue you speak of. I think you can see that area in this picture:






Shari


----------



## Bucko

Mark, just run another block behind that one and clear the stringy stuff. PM me if you are interested in sharing those manuals.


----------



## Markjewell

*Piston Positioning*

Awesome idea to shim the back side!

Bucko, Shari (Wife'nHubby) sent me the manuals via e-mail within the past 24 hours.

I am sure that they can help you out. Shari?

Thanks,

Mark


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Bucko said:


> Mark, just run another block behind that one and clear the stringy stuff. PM me if you are interested in sharing those manuals.


 
PM me your email address.

Shari


----------



## specter

The retaining ring/clip that I got was a basic spring steel piece with a taper on one end . It did not have the 90 degree bend on the other end. That bend is very important as if you do not have it you'll have one hell of a time later on if you ever have to try to remove it from the grove (as I shown in a previous post above). To remove the retaining ring you simply pull on it while spinning the end cap around. The installation is simply the opposite you feed the tapered end into the grove while spinning the end cap around. I used a bit of oil and red bearing grease for the reassembly of the o ringed end cap into the cylinder! Without the oil/grease the o rings tend to bind when sliding the end cap into the cylinder if this happens you could easily tear or notch an o ring resulting in leaks.

I shimmed the end of my cylinder an additional 1/2" forward to make the final split a bit easier.


----------



## Markjewell

Thanks Specter for your great info.
Did you ever rebuild your piston assembly? My front seal is leaking, even when system is not running. Makes a heck of a mess. Just wondering how many seals are in that front cap assembly.


----------



## specter

View attachment 175891
View attachment 175892
Mark your best bet will be to take the cylinder apart and take the whole cylinder = cylinder + end cap + piston rod to a hydraulic cylinder shop that services cylinders!! Take whatever info you can get off of the log splitter as well. Rochester Cylinder Services had work on that type of cylinder before! They did all the measurements to ensure that I got the right o rings and seals as well as the retaining ring. They gave the cylinder an inspection! They said all was OK and even told me how to rebuilt it myself. 

Once you have the o rings, seals and clip the job of rebuilding is easyView attachment 175891
View attachment 175892


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Take a look at how a friend on the Arborist list modified my Didier:

Link: *http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/168359.htm* 

(scroll down a bit to see the pictures a little easier)

Shari


----------



## specter

*Wow!!!!!!!!*

WOW!!!! Shari He sure did a nice job on your log splitter. At least now that saves your back from bending over with logs all the time.


----------



## Jimbeau39

Wife'nHubby said:


> h20togo:
> 
> Welcome to the "Didier Family" here on AS!
> 
> Shari


 
Hello Shari. I was searching the web to find information on my John Deer log splitter, vintage early 70's, and came across this wonderful and informative forum. I have the Deer manual that came with the machine, but would love to have a copy of the Didier information that is available. If possible, would you be able to email me a copy of what is available for these units. I am in the process of rebuilding this unit. I bought it used about 12 years ago, and have split about 35 cord of wood over that time. It is certainly a workhorse, but this old horse needs some attention.

Thanks, Jim


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Hey Jim - Welcome to AS!

PM (private message) me your email address and I will send you the .pdf files as I haven't figured out how or if a .pdf file can be posted here. (How to PM: Left click on my name in the upper left of this message, click on 'private message', and a new window will open. Fill out your message and click on 'submit message'.)

Be sure to check out this new thread also: *http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/168359.htm* which shows how Triptester, a member here on AS, modified my Didier just this week. 

We have a full day of splitting planned for today so I (hopefully) will be adding pictures/videos of my new, "grown up" 1970's Didier in action.

Shari


----------



## ManiacPD

Wow, am I glad I found this thread...

I inherited a Didier model 26 that my father bought new in 1979 when I was 2 years old. I now process a truckload of treelength every year, around 9-10 cords, with it and it just keeps on ticking. 

I had the cylinder redone two years ago. It has the original B&S engine that has been rebuilt twice but is getting tired. I'm planning a similar rebuild as you Shari this coming winter. I plan to put a new engine on (I'm a Honda fan so probably a GX160), a larger hydraulic tank, an inline filter, and a new Cross valve handle kit that I found on TSC's website last night for $35. 

The final project was to jack it up 15-18" somehow. Thanks for the inspiration and I'll be posting pictures when it comes time to get to work!

Here's a picture of my youngest son and wife with a large round of Beech and the old girl (splitter, not wife :msp_biggrin doing what it does best!View attachment 183999


----------



## Bl8tant

My new version of our trusty Didier.


----------



## ManiacPD

Bl8tant said:


> My new version of our trusty Didier.


 
Nice looking machine! What is the platform in front of the engine used for?


----------



## Wife'nHubby

ManiacPD said:


> Wow, am I glad I found this thread...
> 
> I inherited a Didier model 26 that my father bought new in 1979 when I was 2 years old. I now process a truckload of treelength every year, around 9-10 cords, with it and it just keeps on ticking.
> 
> I had the cylinder redone two years ago. It has the original B&S engine that has been rebuilt twice but is getting tired. I'm planning a similar rebuild as you Shari this coming winter. I plan to put a new engine on (I'm a Honda fan so probably a GX160), a larger hydraulic tank, an inline filter, and a new Cross valve handle kit that I found on TSC's website last night for $35.
> 
> The final project was to jack it up 15-18" somehow. Thanks for the inspiration and I'll be posting pictures when it comes time to get to work!
> 
> Here's a picture of my youngest son and wife with a large round of Beech and the old girl (splitter, not wife :msp_biggrin doing what it does best!View attachment 183999



Sorry - I missed your post until now. Lifting it up like that does help but I would stress watch out as the foot end might move on you when under a lot of stress - I had that happen a couple of times and you really don't want any body parts under the splitter if/when she moves. 

Shari


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Bl8tant said:


> My new version of our trusty Didier.



I see you switched around the wedge & foot plate. How's that working for you? I've kept mine with the push plate on the ram and run it so long like that I guess I'm just used to it that way. If a split pops the split flies away from me (normally towards my helper  ).

Shari


----------



## Bl8tant

Shari,

We used the Didier in "factory form" for almost 20 years. Then I decided to raise the beam to help eliminate all the bending over. When my wife and I also started burning wood at our home, I decided to buy another splitter (the Didier technically belongs to my dad). It's a Huskee with the wedge on ram. I quickly began to favor the wedge on ram set-up. I am often a one-man operation during splitting and I prefer to have the wood stay still. That way I'm not constantly dragging the log back to re-split.

You asked about the table in front of the engine - I put that on there when I raised the beam. It's a "work table" that can go on either side of the beam. When I am splitting solo, I split the log in half, set one half on the table and process the other one, then reach back and grab the other half from the table and process it. That way I don't have to keep setting things on the ground or picking them up. It's all right there at waist height.


----------



## Mike_Knefley

*User manual*

Shari just wondering if you could get me a copy of that user manual?


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Mike_Knefley said:


> Shari just wondering if you could get me a copy of that user manual?


 
Click on my name in the left column and send me a private message with your email.

Shari


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Oops! My in-box was full. Try again.

Shari


----------



## pajeepman

*just got me a didier*

I just bought a Didier splitter. Model #HASA19M. Fate is weird. I missed out on a local dider splitter on ebay on Sunday. This one popped up on CL and my brother told me about it, I bought it that night. I haven't used it yet but the cycle time is painfully slow. Much slower than the one on ebay that I looked at. I am hoping to find out how to speed up the cycle time. I use a timerwolf tw-6 at work, but that's like comparing apples to oranges. I am gonna change out the hydraulic fluid and change the engine oil. I have to try and get the engine running smoother or maybe just replace it with a new engine. I am hoping that maybe there is a filter that is dirty that is blocking the fluid flow that once cleaned will speed up the cycle time.


----------



## rancher2

pajeepman said:


> I just bought a Didier splitter. Model #HASA19M. Fate is weird. I missed out on a local dider splitter on ebay on Sunday. This one popped up on CL and my brother told me about it, I bought it that night. I haven't used it yet but the cycle time is painfully slow. Much slower than the one on ebay that I looked at. I am hoping to find out how to speed up the cycle time. I use a timerwolf tw-6 at work, but that's like comparing apples to oranges. I am gonna change out the hydraulic fluid and change the engine oil. I have to try and get the engine running smoother or maybe just replace it with a new engine. I am hoping that maybe there is a filter that is dirty that is blocking the fluid flow that once cleaned will speed up the cycle time.


 
Looks like a nice splitter. Enjoy.


----------



## triptester

That Didier appears to have a 3 or 4 gpm single stage pump on it. That is the main reason it is slow. If the engine is 5+ hp. a 11 gpm 2-stage pump will speed it up nicely.


----------



## agw812

Hi
I am new here. I googled Didier splitter model MF26 and came across this thread. I thought one of you might be able to help me. Does any one have a manual for this splitter? Right now I'm trying to identify a part that needs replacing. Any help you can offer would be much appreciated!


----------



## triptester

I don't have a manual but if the part is hydraulic in nature the component usually can be replace with a stock off the shelf product. If you can post a pic of the suspect component someone can direct you to a replacement part.


----------



## ManiacPD

agw812 said:


> Hi
> I am new here. I googled Didier splitter model MF26 and came across this thread. I thought one of you might be able to help me. Does any one have a manual for this splitter? Right now I'm trying to identify a part that needs replacing. Any help you can offer would be much appreciated!


 
I have the manual and the sales brochure on my computer at work. PM me with your email address and I'll send them out to you tomorrow.

-Paul


----------



## agw812

*Didier splitter part*

I could really use some advice. I am looking for this part in attachment for a Didier splitter Model MF26. Any advice on how to obtain this part? Oops--wrong file. Please check next post.


----------



## agw812

*Shoot-wrong file*

Sorry, I selected the wrong file. Again, any idea how to obtain this part for a Didier splitter model MF26?


----------



## bigblock73

#6?
If your talking about the brass parts
I had to have a machine shop make them for me


----------



## triptester

If refering to the tube you will either have to have a hydraulic shop make up one or replace the tube with hydraulic hose.


----------



## agw812

*Didier splitter*



triptester said:


> If refering to the tube you will either have to have a hydraulic shop make up one or replace the tube with hydraulic hose.


 
Thank you so much. I didn't think of using tubing. That might be a nice solution.

And thanks to all who responded. I have a good idea what to do now. I'd have been lost without you.


----------



## window

First post. I'm glad I found this site. I bought my Didier MF26 about 10 years ago when the guy I bought it from switched to propane. Two years later he wanted it back. 

I had to get a new engine. Well, my own fault. I could have left well enough alone but in doing a tuneup, I decided it needed a new muffler and ruined that whole affair and rather than drill out the manifold, etc, I bought a new 5.5 horse Briggs & Stratton. 

It goes thru about 15 cords a year because I let people borrow it for a case of beer. 

Question: On the opposite side of the handle is part No.4Z0007, silver in color. It appears to be leaking slightly on the lower left corner next to the cylinder and also out what appears to be a weep hole. Maybe a cup of fluid a year. As I don't like the mess, is this anything to worry about or will I make more problems trying to fix it? And is it something the local implement dealer will have a seal/gasket for? They have the rubber piece and unions for the motor/pump because I had to get a new set of those last week. Thanks for any advice/assistance.


----------



## triptester

If the leak is out of the front or back of the control valve it could be a worn O-ring.


----------



## Brokk

I'm hoping I found the right place to troubleshoot my problems with my Didier.

My father bought this splitter about 30 years ago. He used it for 10, then it sat for 20. Now that I have a big house and wood splitting needs, he offered it to me. It's in fantastic condition. Kept inside, well maintained... He also pulled it all apart before giving it to me. Fuel tank was all gummed up as we the carb. He cleaned it all out and got it working. It was just a bit tough to start. I believe all the parts are original, but he modified the wedge and put a tire on the front.

I solved the starting problem, by holding the choke open as I pull. Starts in 1 or 2 pulls doing that. He also left too much oil in the air filter, so it was starving for oxygen. I fixed that too, but not until I had run it for a while. Then I was having idle issues and stalling issues. I took off the head and found a lot of carbon buildup. I cleaned it all out as well as the spark plug and it ran great.

Right now my mystery problem is that when I put a log on the splitter, the jostling motion causes the motor to splutter and run rough. If I let it be for a minute, it evens out and runs fine. However, any time a log bumps into the beam, it goes back to running rough again until it settles down.

I also had a stalling issue under load, but I think I was running it too lean.

Any ideas?

Also, it seemed like there was a way to get a copy of the manual. That would sure be handy!

Brokk...


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Brokk,

Click on my list name (wife'nhubby) on the left side and send me a pm (private message) with your email address. It might take me a day or two to respond but I will send you the manuals I have. I need your email address because the manuals are in .pdf file format which I haven't figured out how to post to the list. 

Shari


----------



## Markjewell

*Didier Cylinder MF26*

Hi To All,

For the life of me, I could not figure out how to load the actual photos...
Hopefully I have done it!
See new Northern Hydraulics 4" x 24" cylinder installed on my splitter. $160

Mark


----------



## fields_mj

Markjewell, that's a nice looking splitter. I got one for FREE from my BIL. It needed a new cyl and hoses. The best price I could come up with was about $240 delivered. The prices I was seeing from Northern were a lot more than $160 at the time. Good buy! I also replaced the steel lines with new hyd lines in order to line up with the new cyl. Looking at yours makes me think that replacing my wedge might be a pretty good idea in the next few years. I've only split a few truck loads with it so far, but I have about 4 loads waiting to be split and stacked for the following season. Between the little diddier and my new X27, I'm not sure which one will be doing the most splitting


----------



## Clarkbug

Brokk said:


> I'm hoping I found the right place to troubleshoot my problems with my Didier.
> 
> Right now my mystery problem is that when I put a log on the splitter, the jostling motion causes the motor to splutter and run rough. If I let it be for a minute, it evens out and runs fine. However, any time a log bumps into the beam, it goes back to running rough again until it settles down.
> 
> I also had a stalling issue under load, but I think I was running it too lean.
> 
> Brokk...


 
I dont know the splitter very well, but the engine stuff is sorta universal.

Have you checked the height of the float in the carb? It could be when you hit it, it messes with the level enough to cause a problem. My guess is that it needs another teardown/rebuild to get it all set. If you havent already, you should pull it all apart, pull out all of the screws and jets and whatnot (be careful, they can strip easily) and soak it in the paint bucket of cleaner. After a day of that, pull it out, blow it all out with compressed air (wear safety glasses!) and put it back together. Depending on the model of the carb, you may have to re-set the float height. 

Put it together and give it a shot!


----------



## Brokk

Clarkbug said:


> I dont know the splitter very well, but the engine stuff is sorta universal.
> 
> Have you checked the height of the float in the carb? It could be when you hit it, it messes with the level enough to cause a problem. My guess is that it needs another teardown/rebuild to get it all set. If you havent already, you should pull it all apart, pull out all of the screws and jets and whatnot (be careful, they can strip easily) and soak it in the paint bucket of cleaner. After a day of that, pull it out, blow it all out with compressed air (wear safety glasses!) and put it back together. Depending on the model of the carb, you may have to re-set the float height.
> 
> Put it together and give it a shot!


 
I'm new to tinkering with small engines but I've tried to do a lot of reading about the subject in regards to the B&S on the splitter. They all seem to recommend a carb "rebuild" kit, that should contain things like springs, O-rings and other small bits that are the most likely to wear out. Looking at the B&S website for my engine, they don't seem to list such a thing, but they do sell a replacement carb kit, that replaces the main section of the carb, including the jets. It runs just over $100. I'm not sure if that's a better way to go. Quite honestly, I'm a bit intimidated by tearing it apart, for fear it won't work when I put it back together. There seems to be so many little things that could go wrong. Right now it's running, and I'm using it to split a couple cords more of wood I have lying around. Maybe I'll do one more cord with it, then try to tear it apart. At least then I'll have the bigger part of the work out of the way and stacked for the winter.

I'll likely pull it apart enough to take a look at the float. Sounds like it's not too deep into the carb breakdown process.

Brokk...


----------



## Clarkbug

Brokk said:


> I'm new to tinkering with small engines but I've tried to do a lot of reading about the subject in regards to the B&S on the splitter. They all seem to recommend a carb "rebuild" kit, that should contain things like springs, O-rings and other small bits that are the most likely to wear out. Looking at the B&S website for my engine, they don't seem to list such a thing, but they do sell a replacement carb kit, that replaces the main section of the carb, including the jets. It runs just over $100. I'm not sure if that's a better way to go. Quite honestly, I'm a bit intimidated by tearing it apart, for fear it won't work when I put it back together. There seems to be so many little things that could go wrong. Right now it's running, and I'm using it to split a couple cords more of wood I have lying around. Maybe I'll do one more cord with it, then try to tear it apart. At least then I'll have the bigger part of the work out of the way and stacked for the winter.
> 
> I'll likely pull it apart enough to take a look at the float. Sounds like it's not too deep into the carb breakdown process.
> 
> Brokk...


 

You dont want a new carb kit, since thats just really a new carb. 

If you know the part # for your carb, you can go to any B&S dealer, or even hit up ebay to get those parts. I have rebuilt without getting the new pieces, but its not suggested. Its probably not too complicated in there, but you are right. Finish your splitting first, then crack it open. No sense in breaking something thats running well.


----------



## Brokk

Mark, since I haven't gotten my hands on a manual yet, could you tell me about the silver cylinder on "our side" of the photograph at the top of the splitter? a hydraulic line is going into it. I'm guessing it's some kind of filter. Had anyone pulled one of these apart? Do they have anything inside that can be cleaned or replaced, or do you just need to replace the whole cylinder?

Since stalling under load has been one of my issues, I was told to check for a filter that might be clogged and causing the machine to work harder than it needs to. This could cause the stalling if it was the case.

Also, from the small engine perspective, what is the most likely cause of carbon buildup in the cylinder and valves? My dad never cleaned it out in his 10 years of use. I cleaned it out (quite a bit of black buildup) and after about 8 hours of use, there was plenty of buildup again (but more liquid-like and easier to clean). I've also found it useful to pull off the spark plug and clean it off every time I use it. There is always build up on it, even after an hour of use. The last time I checked the gap and it needed some adjustment as well. Hopefully that will make a difference.

After cleaning out the buildup in the cylinder and valves, the machine runs *much* better, for about 60-90 minutes. I can adjust the mixture to run much leaner (since I thought a rich mixture would cause that buildup). After 90 minutes, it starts stalling under load and I need to adjust the mixture a little richer. Then later, I need to adjust it even more to richer. This slowly progresses until I'm back to my original mixture and it's running rough at idle, but not quite stalling under load. Then it's time to clean out the cylinder again.

Brokk...


----------



## Clarkbug

How does your air filter look? Has that been changed recently?

You definitely should gap the plug correctly, but cleaning it after every use is a little excessive.

There are several types of buildup that could be on your plug... It could be from bad gas (unlikely since you just put in fresh, right?), or running rich (which you seem to know how to adjust), or also you could be burning oil. That could cause the buildup on the plug in that short amount of time. Has the oil level gone down as you use the splitter? What kind of oil are you using in the engine?

Are you operating the splitter at full throttle, and is the choke all the way open when its running?


----------



## Brokk

Clarkbug said:


> How does your air filter look? Has that been changed recently?
> 
> You definitely should gap the plug correctly, but cleaning it after every use is a little excessive.
> 
> There are several types of buildup that could be on your plug... It could be from bad gas (unlikely since you just put in fresh, right?), or running rich (which you seem to know how to adjust), or also you could be burning oil. That could cause the buildup on the plug in that short amount of time. Has the oil level gone down as you use the splitter? What kind of oil are you using in the engine?
> 
> Are you operating the splitter at full throttle, and is the choke all the way open when its running?


 
Air filter looks like new. Actually, it might be. My dad replaced a few things when cleaning it up for me. I know he put in a new spark plug at the time. The only issue was he over oiled the filter, so for the first couple hours of running, it was struggling a bit for air. I've since squeezed it out better into paper towels, so that should be fine now.

The spark plug will end up with a liquidy black residue around the edges near the threads. More solid (or dried) black matter where it fires.

I've used a couple types of gas. The problems started when I was using 89 octane that was fairly fresh (couple weeks old?). My standard is to get 2.5 gallons of 89, add Stabil and Marvel Mystery Oil to it. That goes into all my power equipment around here. So it's usually pretty fresh, especially in the summer when my lawn tractor is guzzling it down. I had run the splitter for at least 4 hours this year and a few hours last year with that type of gas. I was well into my issues, when I ran out of that, and switched to some older (few months) gas, 87 octane with Stabil, that I had around for my plow truck. I've been using that since, knowing that I should use it up. I could just dump it into my SUV and get some new 89 octane. I'll try that tomorrow. Nothing else is complaining about the gas I've been using, and both types had the same result.

I'm not sure of the exact oil type. My dad changed the oil before giving me the splitter late last year. I took off the cap on one side and the level is right up there and when I dipped my finger in, it came out looking pretty clean, for oil.

I'm not sure where the throttle control is, for setting the speed. I pull the choke out, pull the cord a couple times and it fires up and sucks the choke back in. That's where it runs. Under load, the throttle increases, when you ease off, it drops back to idle.

I'm hoping to run it Saturday and see how it goes, with a clean cylinder, and much cleaner valves. I'm curious if I'll see the same behavior with no issues for the first 90 minutes, then if it starts to stall under load. Also, it's not just about running it cold. I had issues before and shut it down for a couple hours. Within minutes of firing it back up the troubled behavior was back.


----------



## Brokk

I replied last night, but it hasn't shown up yet, so I'm sending it again. Hopefully it won't post twice.



Clarkbug said:


> How does your air filter look? Has that been changed recently?
> 
> You definitely should gap the plug correctly, but cleaning it after every use is a little excessive.
> 
> There are several types of buildup that could be on your plug... It could be from bad gas (unlikely since you just put in fresh, right?), or running rich (which you seem to know how to adjust), or also you could be burning oil. That could cause the buildup on the plug in that short amount of time. Has the oil level gone down as you use the splitter? What kind of oil are you using in the engine?
> 
> Are you operating the splitter at full throttle, and is the choke all the way open when its running?


 
Air filter looks like new. Actually, it might be. My dad replaced a few things when cleaning it up for me. I know he put in a new spark plug at the time. The only issue was he over oiled the filter, so for the first couple hours of running, it was struggling a bit for air. I've since squeezed it out better into paper towels, so that should be fine now.

The spark plug will end up with a liquidy black residue around the edges near the threads. More solid (or dried) black matter where it fires.

I've used a couple types of gas. The problems started when I was using 89 octane that was fairly fresh (couple weeks old?). My standard is to get 2.5 gallons of 89, add Stabil and Marvel Mystery Oil to it. That goes into all my power equipment around here. So it's usually pretty fresh, especially in the summer when my lawn tractor is guzzling it down. I had run the splitter for at least 4 hours this year and a few hours last year with that type of gas. I was well into my issues, when I ran out of that, and switched to some older (few months) gas, 87 octane with Stabil, that I had around for my plow truck. I've been using that since, knowing that I should use it up. I could just dump it into my SUV and get some new 89 octane. I'll try that tomorrow. Nothing else is complaining about the gas I've been using, and both types had the same result.

I'm not sure of the exact oil type. My dad changed the oil before giving me the splitter late last year. I took off the cap on one side and the level is right up there and when I dipped my finger in, it came out looking pretty clean, for oil.

I'm not sure where the throttle control is, for setting the speed. I pull the choke out, pull the cord a couple times and it fires up and sucks the choke back in. That's where it runs. Under load, the throttle increases, when you ease off, it drops back to idle.

I'm hoping to run it Saturday and see how it goes, with a clean cylinder, and much cleaner valves. I'm curious if I'll see the same behavior with no issues for the first 90 minutes, then if it starts to stall under load. Also, it's not just about running it cold. I had issues before and shut it down for a couple hours. Within minutes of firing it back up the troubled behavior was back.


----------



## Brokk

I'm getting mighty confused. I've tried to post a reply twice in the past 12 hours and each time it tells me I need the moderator to approve my post first. That has never happened before. Has something changed?


----------



## Brokk

I'm trying this post a 3rd time, but without the quote at the beginning. Maybe that will make the difference.

Air filter looks like new. Actually, it might be. My dad replaced a few things when cleaning it up for me. I know he put in a new spark plug at the time. The only issue was he over oiled the filter, so for the first couple hours of running, it was struggling a bit for air. I've since squeezed it out better into paper towels, so that should be fine now.

The spark plug will end up with a liquidy black residue around the edges near the threads. More solid (or dried) black matter where it fires.

I've used a couple types of gas. The problems started when I was using 89 octane that was fairly fresh (couple weeks old?). My standard is to get 2.5 gallons of 89, add Stabil and Marvel Mystery Oil to it. That goes into all my power equipment around here. So it's usually pretty fresh, especially in the summer when my lawn tractor is guzzling it down. I had run the splitter for at least 4 hours this year and a few hours last year with that type of gas. I was well into my issues, when I ran out of that, and switched to some older (few months) gas, 87 octane with Stabil, that I had around for my plow truck. I've been using that since, knowing that I should use it up. I could just dump it into my SUV and get some new 89 octane. I'll try that tomorrow. Nothing else is complaining about the gas I've been using, and both types had the same result.

I'm not sure of the exact oil type. My dad changed the oil before giving me the splitter late last year. I took off the cap on one side and the level is right up there and when I dipped my finger in, it came out looking pretty clean, for oil.

I'm not sure where the throttle control is, for setting the speed. I pull the choke out, pull the cord a couple times and it fires up and sucks the choke back in. That's where it runs. Under load, the throttle increases, when you ease off, it drops back to idle.

I'm hoping to run it Saturday and see how it goes, with a clean cylinder, and much cleaner valves. I'm curious if I'll see the same behavior with no issues for the first 90 minutes, then if it starts to stall under load. Also, it's not just about running it cold. I had issues before and shut it down for a couple hours. Within minutes of firing it back up the troubled behavior was back.


----------



## Markjewell

*Didier Carb*

Hi Brokk,

The "silver" piece in the photo is a filter for the hydraulic fluid.
I have not cleaned the darned for about 8-10 years now. Just a wire mesh screen in there.

You must have a throttle control on that carb. Run it at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. These 5hp engines really don't require all that much maintenance. Perhaps the govenor control is not hooked up?

Are you sure that the choke is fully open when it is warmed up? When you are ready to split, is the engine turning at a good rpm? Almost like cutting the lawn with a mower. You have to have the engine humming along at a good clip.

Also, make sure that the 2 bolts holding the carb on to the motor are tight and the carb is not "loose".

Mark


----------



## Brokk

Sorry for all the repeat posts.

I got new 89 octane gas, added Stabil. Siphoned off the old gas and put in the new. Tuned the mixture back as lean as she would run at. She stalled on the first piece. Made the mixture a quarter turn richer. Had trouble restarting her. Once she was running, she stalled again on the next attempt. Another quarter turn richer. Had more trouble starting her. Finally got her running and went to town doing work. It seemed to be running a bit faster as it got into things. She lasted about 45 minutes before starting to run rough again. I kept going until I had my fill of splitting. I put it away, pulled the plug and sure enough there was greasy black on it. I cleaned it off, checked the gap (which was perfect) and put it back together. This morning I ran it for a couple hours more until I emptied the gas tank. It was running *very* rough. The idle was up and down and sounded like it was fighting not to die. However, no more stalling either. I finished nearly a cord over the two days and I have to say it seems like it ran better with the old gas.

Still not sure where the heck that black gunk is coming from.

I'll check those bolts, as well as as start to pull it apart to check the float and such.

I have less than 2 cords left to go, then I'll be done for this year and I can tinker away to my hearts content. I'll leave some wood unsplit to test drive it later, assuming I can split up all the rest.


----------



## Bl8tant

Brokk,

A few things about your engine: That is an "L"-head type briggs with a pulsa-jet carb. There is no float to adjust, and they are a VERY simple design. You can do a rebuild in 30 minutes and you'll have no problems - just take your time and pay attention to where things go. A rebuild kit will mainly consist of a new diaphram, a base gasket, and a new adjustment needle. WELL worth the $5 to buy and install. Since the motor has at some point had gas left in it, you need to clean, clean, clean when you disassemble. One of your main issues right now is the main jet screw (adjustment needle) is worn or damaged (it can be hard to see the damage). This is often the culprit for symptoms you describe (particularly running rough when jostled). Basically what is happening is that you can no longer maintain adjustment due to damaged taper on the needle. The best evidence for this---the heavy soot deposit on the muffler. 

If you do replace the needle, you do know NOT to tighten the screw down hard ? Just turn the adjustment clockwise until you "feel" the needle bottom out (GENTLY). Then turn it out (counter-clockwise) 1 1/2 turns. This will allow the engine to start, and then you can fine tune once it's running. SMALL turns make a BIG difference on a healthy carb.

Also, I notice that you add Sta-bil (good) and MMO (OK), but you are using too much of a good thing. Both products contribute quite a bit of "oil" to your fuel especially if you are over-dosing. Try running a tank of fresh gas with NO additives and then check the plug. Even though your engine is running rich due to the damaged adjustment needle, you should see a reduction in the "gooiness" of the black deposits. Sta-Bil is a great preserver. You don't really need the MMO unless you have evidence for needing upper cylinder lubrication. At any rate, I would recommend Sea-Foam over MMO for fuel treatment.

If after replacing the needle and using gas with NO additives you STILL have black gooey build-up then:
1) clogged air filter
2) defective crankcase breather
3) worn rings (loss of oil control)
4) worn valve guides allowing oil to be sucked past the valve stems

Those are in order of most likely to least likely culprit. (And cheapest to fix to most expensive to fix)


----------



## Brokk

Since I've had no luck with the B&S web site in getting a carb rebuild kit, I'll hit my local hardware store since I know they stock some B&S parts and can order others. Hopefully they can get me the parts and I can do the rebuild.

Yes, I'm very careful with the mixture screw. What you said is exactly the same thing my father told me and was the exact setting when I checked it the first time. Gently turned it all the way in, until I hit resistance. Then back it out 1.5 turns on the nose. I've since turned it in farther, trying to make it more lean, as the idle was very rough and I also had stalling issues at that setting.

I've noticed it runs a lot rougher as the gas tank nears empty. Not sure if that points at anything.

The valves looked pretty worn to me, comparing them to the pictures of new valves I saw on the B&S web site.

Once I get the kit, I'll pull it apart, clean everything, and put it back together and run it with fresh gas.

I tend to add Stabil and MMO because I use the same gas for many different engines and I never know quickly I'll go through gas. Stabil should be added immediately after fill up for the best effect. I'll use a one gallon container this time to keep things untainted for the splitter.

Thanks for the insight!


----------



## Bl8tant

Get your engine numbers (located on the starter shroud :model - type-code) and call Jack's Small Engine (located in Maryland). They can provide you with a rebuild kit - $6 + shipping. The rebuild kits are pretty much "universal" , one kit is used to service nearly all 5hp thru 3hp engines with Pulsa jet carbs. Just match the parts you remove to the new parts in the bag. Not all pieces will be used.

You said the valves appear "worn". How so/In what way? Are you referring to the intake and exhaust valves ? Also, if you are removing the head, are you using a new head gasket each time ? There are 2 types of head gaskets available. One is metal-clad and appears reusable (but you shouldn't) and the other is a graphite type that tends to tear up every time you remove the head (these seal better,but can never be reused even in a pinch). Once you have your main issues figured out, get a graphite head gasket and install. Torque bolts to 70 in-lbs first then final torque to 140 in-lbs and make SURE you torque them in the right order. SERVICE manuals are readily available for free download and contain all this info. Also, do a search for PERR - lots of good reading there.


----------



## Bl8tant

You also said it runs rougher once the fuel level drops - 2 possible issues there. 1)Diaphram is weak or stiff (old) - I replace mine nearly every year. It serves as the "fuel pump" and it's rubber construction does not like the new ethanol-tainted gasoline we get. FYI-a new diaphram is include in a carb kit or is available seperately for $2. 2)The fuel pick-up line in the tank may be cracked or partially clogged. This is the longer plastic tube that sticks down into the tank. Technically, the plastic part can be replaced. There is also a shorter tube or extension that goes into a little "sump" at the top of the tank. Make sure the sump is clean and the extension is open.

Your best bet is to clean,clean,clean. Use good solvent, use toothpicks to gently scapre and clear passages, use VERY small wire to clear passages (DON"T force wire into holes, just find a piece that fits easily and run it in and out a few times). 

If you are over-dosing with Sta-Bil and MMO it will form a sticky varnish (like pre-ethanol gas). On the other hand, un-treated Ethanol gas tends to corrode metals, harden plastic and rubber (or dissolve them), and makes a powdery residue that can be impossible to remove. Try just sticking with the proper dose of Sta-Bil. Your engines will thank you for it. I only use MMO if I have a valve-sticking issue. Even then I only run a few tanks of MMO treated fuel. Otherwise it's not really needed and just contributes to potential carbon build-up IMO.


----------



## Brokk

The pictures of the valves on the B&S website are shiny, new and look very smooth and clean. Mine appear "rough". There is clearly some sort of buildup on top of them, that I have done my best to remove (light powdery gray stuff). Very resistant to removing. Carb cleaner does nothing to it. When feeling around the outer edges of the valves, they feel rough. Not sure if this is some sort of buildup of stuff, or piting. The website stresses the need for a smooth surface on the valves, as well as where they fit into. I fear the roughness on them, and buildup underneath could be causing them to not have a good seal when they come together.

My fear with the valves is it seems to call for a special tool for removing and re-installing the springs. So I don't want to mess with it if I don't have the right equipment to deal with it.

The head gasket is the metal type, and yes I've been reusing it. I'll see about getting a new one (or a few until I figure out this black gunk issue).

I don't think I'm over dosing. I use the recommended amount on the label. I think it's 1 oz for 2.5 gallons? Same for MMO.


----------



## Cigarman

I just recently joined the Didier splitter club. Mine is a Montgomery Ward Model 24372, I have PM'd a few people who have posted on this thread as I am looking for the manual(s) .pdf file that is circulating.
Thanks

Edit to add:
Specter just took care of me with the Manual.
Thanks a lot. Now you won't hear anything more about the splitter unless i have a repair question ;-)


----------



## specter

Always glad to assist

Tom


----------



## pompey12

*Didier Side Bars p/n 200021*

Hi- Lookin for help on getting new brass side bars for my Didier..This site great for info.

Any help w/b/ appreciated...

Kevin


----------



## specter

The edges on mine are steel made out of bar stock steel. I am not sure where you can locate a new set. If the one's in that picture are your existing set you could try resurfacing with some thinner bar stock attached to the orignal edges. Of course if you have access or know someone that has a machine shop they could mill some off the existing face cleaning up the face and allowing the edge to fit like new.


----------



## Brokk

I'm still looking for the manual as well. I tried contacting a previous poster who said they could provide one, but I never heard back from them.


----------



## specter

Send me your email address I will send it to you as an attachment since its a large pdf file 4.35mb

Tom


----------



## specter

Got your address your manual is on its way

Tom


----------



## Brokk

Thank you Tom!


----------



## specter

Your welcome I hope it helps you as much as it has helped me

Tom:msp_thumbup:


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Sorry I missed your request for the manual but glad you got it anyway. My laptop motherboard died on me so I have been offline for quite awhile (I borrowed a computer to post this.)

My - we sure have a lot of Didier owners here! 

Shari


----------



## Cigarman

Wife'nHubby said:


> Sorry I missed your request for the manual but glad you got it anyway. My laptop motherboard died on me so I have been offline for quite awhile (I borrowed a computer to post this.)
> 
> My - we sure have a lot of Didier owners here!
> 
> Shari


 
There sure are!

Here are pics of mine. 
View attachment 198923

View attachment 198924

View attachment 198925

View attachment 198926


I'm getting all my wood split and then I am going to see about getting the seals replaced as it is leaking a little bit of fluid.
The manual calls for either hydraulic fluid or 10w-30 or 40 oil. My machine says to fill with "Oil" on the top of the tank. However the stuff that is in the reservoir seems to be hydraulic fluid.
Does it matter what is used?


----------



## Cigarman

I used my splitter for a couple of days and the cylinder leak got worse. I figured it would!
I found a hydraulic repair place in the area and just brought the cylinder to them. I was planning on just buying the seals and rings but since I didn't have the proper tool to remove the plug I figured I might as well have them rebuild it. The guy took the thing apart and the rings just disintegrated! No wonder it was leaking.
Anyway, it is totally rebuilt now! I bought two new O-Rings for the control mechanism (I had already taken the old ones out) and some new lengths of hydraulic hose for the non pressurized feeds.
I put it back together, put new oil in it and it's running like a champ. I should be all set for another 30+ years.


----------



## Peterh

*Trouble with didier splitter*

Have owned this splitter for about 10 yrs replaced engine last year as well as hoses filter and fresh oil went to split couple days ago was fine for couple hrs then lost most of the pressure to the ram will split small stuff won't split anything bigger than say 8" round thinkn it may be the pump but really not to sure this is an old splitter and has split Any type of wood up to 20" round no prob any input on this issue would be great


----------



## triptester

Could be a loose coupling between engine and pump. A broken relief spring in the control valve or the seals in the cylinder might be going bad.


----------



## Cigarman

Peterh said:


> Have owned this splitter for about 10 yrs replaced engine last year as well as hoses filter and fresh oil went to split couple days ago was fine for couple hrs then lost most of the pressure to the ram will split small stuff won't split anything bigger than say 8" round thinkn it may be the pump but really not to sure this is an old splitter and has split Any type of wood up to 20" round no prob any input on this issue would be great


 
Is it leaking oil anywhere?
I just rebuilt mine and the seals on the cylinder disintegrated when it was taken apart!


----------



## Peterh

Cigarman said:


> Is it leaking oil anywhere?
> I just rebuilt mine and the seals on the cylinder disintegrated when it was taken apart!


 
always leaked out the front cylynder a little,connection between coupler is fine


----------



## specter

After running the splitter for awhile shut it off then take off the cap to the fluid tank. If you look into the tank and see a foam on top of the fluid it means you have a leak somewhere that is sucking in air. Trying tightening all you clamps and fittings 1st It could also be a lin hole leak in the suction line from the tank to the pump in which case it sucks in air . Any air in the pump or the hydraulic cylinder will cause the splitter to operate at less than peak efficiency.

Hope that helps


----------



## specter

Glad to see you back Shari

Tom


----------



## Wife'nHubby

specter said:


> Glad to see you back Shari
> 
> Tom


 
Thanks - glad to be back - I missed you guys~ 

If there is anyone still looking for the Didier manuals send me a pm. The hard drive from my old computer survived the hardware crash on my laptop. The computer guru made that hard drive a 'stand alone' so all I have to do now is hook it up to the new computer and I should have all my files back.

Gotta go play with wood today - haven't done that for awhile. I'm feeling lazing about getting out there........ 

Shari


----------



## Peterh

specter said:


> After running the splitter for awhile shut it off then take off the cap to the fluid tank. If you look into the tank and see a foam on top of the fluid it means you have a leak somewhere that is sucking in air. Trying tightening all you clamps and fittings 1st It could also be a lin hole leak in the suction line from the tank to the pump in which case it sucks in air . Any air in the pump or the hydraulic cylinder will cause the splitter to operate at less than peak efficiency.
> 
> Hope that helps


 
Ok will check it out further thanks


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Hmmm...... while 'playing' with some wood today I'm beginning to think my hydraulic tank has reached it's EOL (end-of-life). The cap popped off the tank twice. It feels like maybe the threads are stripped. Dang original equipment from the 1970's - you'd think it would have lasted longer. 

Shari


----------



## Cigarman

Wife'nHubby said:


> Hmmm...... while 'playing' with some wood today I'm beginning to think my hydraulic tank has reached it's EOL (end-of-life). The cap popped off the tank twice. It feels like maybe the threads are stripped. Dang original equipment from the 1970's - you'd think it would have lasted longer.
> 
> Shari


 
Shari,
It shouldn't be too hard to replace the tank with another.
All the parts on the Didier machines seem quite exchangeable with contemporary parts.


----------



## russdaly

*Didier model 26 cylinder seal kit*



acme0007 said:


> hey all I have a spare wards splitter/Dider for sale here in Omaha $ 475, probably take $425 for it. Newer 5hp honda, new return hoses flushed fluid, rebult cylinder, and did some work to push plate, stock is pretty weak. well it works great for smaller stuff and being low makes it much easier to load logs. I will try to load a pic. thanks.


 
Hi, Where did you get the seal kit to rebuild the cylinder?


----------



## Cigarman

russdaly said:


> Hi, Where did you get the seal kit to rebuild the cylinder?


 
I brought mine to a hydraulic shop and had them rebuild it for me as I had the end cap with the two holes and couldn't get the cap off myself.
I had them rebuild it, sell me two lengths of hose and two O-rings for the relief switch for a total cost of $82.00
I did get the part numbers from them so if you need them I could email you that info.
Mine is 4" x 24" with a 2" ram


----------



## Markjewell

*Cylinder Rebuild...*



Cigarman said:


> I did get the part numbers from them so if you need them I could email you that info.
> Mine is 4" x 24" with a 2" ram


 
Any chance of obtaining those part numbers for the cylinder rebuild?
I installled a Northern Hydraulics cylinder, but kept my old cylinder. The piston is really scored up, but I may check into the rebuild to have an extra.

Thanks!

Mark


----------



## wolfkicker

*Didier model A20M logsplitter info*

Anyone have info on a Dieder model A20M log splitter??? Mine runs fine but not sure what to use for hydralic fluid. This is an old vertical drive motor one
thanks for anything
9-25-2011

[email protected]


----------



## Cigarman

Markjewell said:


> Any chance of obtaining those part numbers for the cylinder rebuild?
> I installled a Northern Hydraulics cylinder, but kept my old cylinder. The piston is really scored up, but I may check into the rebuild to have an extra.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Mark


 
Not so sure these will help you out but here is what I have written down from the guy who repaired my Cylinder.
He only wrote down the #'s, no manufacturers. So looking up these parts will be difficult at best.
1. AN-17
1. U18-1.50-37B
1. #236 O-Ring & Back Up
1. #022 O-Ring
1. PSI800-56

That's it.
If it was me, I'd pay someone to rebuild the thing. 
When I saw this guy do the job I realized there was no way in hell I would have been able to do the job he did. 
And I am no slouch.

I brought mine to a place called Mooradian Hydraulics in 1190 US Rt,9, Castleton, NY. 518-766-3866, I highly recommend this place.

I just realized, If you called them with those parts numbers THEY can sell them to you. Because they wrote the numbers down!
Just make sure we're dealing with the same cylinder.


----------



## Cigarman

wolfkicker said:


> Anyone have info on a Dieder model A20M log splitter??? Mine runs fine but not sure what to use for hydralic fluid. This is an old vertical drive motor one
> thanks for anything
> 9-25-2011
> 
> [email protected]


 
Mine runs with motor oil in it.


----------



## wolfkicker

View attachment 200648


----------



## Brokk

So I ordered the carb rebuild parts from a local dealer that repairs small engines. There was no "kit", we had to order the parts individually and it's not cheap. It's also taking forever (3 weeks so far and it's still "pending"). So I decided to split some more wood with what I had. I couldn't get it started. I tried everything, including the never-failed-before-technique-of-starting-fluid-on-the-air-filter. Nothing. Well, not exactly nothing, just an occasional "putt-putt", that made you think it was going to start. It was pretty rare though.

So I pulled off the spark plug, cleaned it off, gaped it. Put it back. Nothing. Finally I pulled it out and checked for spark. Nothing. Ah-ha. So I go out and get a new spark plug. Still no spark.

Should I replace the Armature? I can order one through Amazon and not have to deal with the long wait ($30). Or is there something else I can test?

Just to be clear, I take the spark plug out, connect it to the wire and touch the base of the plug to the metal where it goes into the engine. Then holding it there I pull the cord and expect to see a spark. Right?

Brokk...


----------



## wolfkicker

*thats about it, make sure the gap on the armature is close, I use a matchbook cover*

​




Brokk said:


> So I ordered the carb rebuild parts from a local dealer that repairs small engines. There was no "kit", we had to order the parts individually and it's not cheap. It's also taking forever (3 weeks so far and it's still "pending"). So I decided to split some more wood with what I had. I couldn't get it started. I tried everything, including the never-failed-before-technique-of-starting-fluid-on-the-air-filter. Nothing. Well, not exactly nothing, just an occasional "putt-putt", that made you think it was going to start. It was pretty rare though.
> 
> So I pulled off the spark plug, cleaned it off, gaped it. Put it back. Nothing. Finally I pulled it out and checked for spark. Nothing. Ah-ha. So I go out and get a new spark plug. Still no spark.
> 
> Should I replace the Armature? I can order one through Amazon and not have to deal with the long wait ($30). Or is there something else I can test?
> 
> Just to be clear, I take the spark plug out, connect it to the wire and touch the base of the plug to the metal where it goes into the engine. Then holding it there I pull the cord and expect to see a spark. Right?
> 
> Brokk...


 
thats about it, make sure the gap on the armature is close, I use a matchbook cover


----------



## Cigarman

I've never heard of spraying starting fluid on an air filter! I always spray it into the carburetor if I have starting troubles.
Anyway, If you can't get the motor going you might be better off just buying an inexpensive replacement motor like one of these.


----------



## Brokk

There is always the question of the break even point. I just ordered $40 or so in parts for the engine. Replacing it for $130 sounds like the financially responsible thing to do. After all, it shouldn't cost more to maintain an engine than it does to buy one new.


----------



## Cigarman

Brokk said:


> There is always the question of the break even point. I just ordered $40 or so in parts for the engine. Replacing it for $130 sounds like the financially responsible thing to do. After all, it shouldn't cost more to maintain an engine than it does to buy one new.


 
I got lucky!
I just recently bought my Didier, but it had a new 8.75 HP Briggs and Stratton on it!
The thing cranks.

The only reason I said what I did, about just replacing the motor was, that it sounds like you are chasing a fix by purchasing parts.
I find it's always best to just bite the bullet and replace something if you aren't exactly sure what the issue is.
If you can get the parts cheap then it doesn't hurt to chase a fix, However...


----------



## Brokk

When looking around at engines I found some higher powered ones cheaper than the 5hp. I was wondering if getting a bigger engine (like your 8.5hp) would be a bad idea. Would it create too much pressure and break the hydraulics, for example?


----------



## Iron man

Markjewell said:


> Hi To All,
> 
> For the life of me, I could not figure out how to load the actual photos...
> Hopefully I have done it!
> See new Northern Hydraulics 4" x 24" cylinder installed on my splitter. $160
> 
> Mark


 
You break those welds at the push plate?Ive never had any luck welding cast steel but I have heard with the right techniques it can be done.


----------



## triptester

Brokk said:


> When looking around at engines I found some higher powered ones cheaper than the 5hp. I was wondering if getting a bigger engine (like your 8.5hp) would be a bad idea. Would it create too much pressure and break the hydraulics, for example?



A bigger engine in it self will not produce more pressure unless you increase the relief setting on the control valve. If the relief setting is increased beyond the rating of the other hydraulic components than a failure is possible.


----------



## Markjewell

*Push Plate Weld*



Iron man said:


> You break those welds at the push plate?Ive never had any luck welding cast steel but I have heard with the right techniques it can be done.


 
No problems MIG welding the push plate. I had cut the clevis in half and matched it right up against the pushlate. Not much stress here as you are only applying pressure in a forward direction. The new hardened brass guides that I had machined keep the pushplate true on the rail.

Mark


----------



## Brokk

So now I'm more seriously shopping for a new engine. Not wanting to dump money into a 30+ year old motor with many hours on it. The names I'm most familiar with are B&S, Honda and Kohler. It seems a lot of the engines are no longer rated by HP, but now use torque or CCs. It looks like I would need something around 200cc or 9.0 torque, horizontal 3/4 shaft. There can be quite a range in price. What do all of you find to be best use of your $$$? I'm scared of the no-name brands (or Harborfreight), because I could just be shifting one set of problems for another. I don't want to drop a lot of money into this project, but I also don't want to get an engine that will need me to baby it and fix it all the time. Some of the off brands are difficult to work on or repair. Lack of information out there as well as a tough time finding parts.

What are your recommendations?

Right now I'm eyeing this one:
Kohler 6.5 HP Horizontal Engine  196cc, 3/4in. x 2 7/16in. Shaft, Model# PA-SH265-0011 | 241cc - 390cc Kohler Horizontal Engines | Northern Tool + Equipment

But I'd be happier finding something under $200.

Brokk...


----------



## bigblock73

Predator 212 cc OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engine - Certified for All States Except California


----------



## Brokk

Well, my parts came in to rebuild my carb, so I decided to give this engine one more shot. However, I wanted to get spark first before I went any further.

I went out and bought the "proper" spark plug for it (RCJ8), and took it home. I know the armature is doing something, because I can put my finger between the spark plug connector and the block and I get a zap when I pull the cord. I put the new spark plug in and I still get no spark. However, I put it into the engine, screw it down tight and give it a dozen good pulls and she tries to start. A few more good pulls and eventually she does start, then stalls back out before she warms up. So I'm getting something.

Is it possible there is something in the ignition/spark process that is too weak? Could that be the cause of my issues (running rough, build up of black slimy stuff inside the cylinder, etc)?

I'm going to clean out the cylinder again (I have a new head gasket this time), and I'm going to rebuild the carb since I have the parts. Hopefully it will run good after this. If not, I'm not sinking another dime into it. I'll be going out to buy a new engine.

Brokk...


----------



## Cigarman

I had an issue like this with a motor that was on my Uncles wood splitter. I looked at the gas line and it was dry rotted. I replaced the gas line hoses and it ran just fine after that.
If it isn't the gas line then it's probably a carburetor issue.


----------



## Brokk

Well I cleaned out the carb (20 min soaking), rinsed it off, blew it out with compressed air, put it all back together with the new parts. Cleaned the cylinder and valves, put that back together with a new gasket. Hooked it all up, and damned if I couldn't get it started. I tweaked, nudged for all I was worth, but could not keep it running for more than a few seconds. Eventually I, pulled off air element and sprayed in some engine starter. Finally got it running. Then tweaked some more until it seemed to be running solid.

Still tough to start. Should start on one or two pulls. In reality it takes me about 8-10 pulls and then it's real reluctant. I'm still having that issue when you bump into the machine, it splutters and makes noises about wanting to stall. Any demand on the motor (using hydraulics) and it starts to run rough. After it's warmed up (about 5+ minutes) and it smooths out and seems to run OK, as long as there are no bumps or vibrations. I split wood for about 15 minutes, just to see how it runs. Seems shaky, but OK. It didn't die on any of the wood, but I didn't have anything really rough to split on hand. I tried shutting it off, then starting it again. Still hard to start, even with a warm engine. Took 1/2 dozen pulls.

I did a quick check early on by pulling the spark plug out. No greasy black stuff. So that's good. Forgot to check when I was done with my 15 min test though.

The predator engine was on-sale, with today being the final day, so I decided to stop screwing around with the old engine and replace it with another for under $100. Now to do the work of pulling off the old and putting on the new.

For those of you who have gone through this process of replacing the motor, did you need to make any odd modifications, such as attaching that arm to the top of the new motor to cut down vibrations?


----------



## Cigarman

Glad to hear you bought a new motor. It seemed like the thing to do. When I bought mine the motor had been replaced and the vibration arm was zip tied to the machine but not attached.
So, I'd say you don't need it anymore. Mine runs fine without it.


----------



## Brokk

Motor is mounted. It was much easier than I expected. Now I just need the right oil to fill it up with and I can try it out.

There was only one issue to speak of. The shaft length on the new motor was about 3/8" shorter than the old one. Which meant the connection to the hydraulic shaft was not perfect. I loosened both sides and slid them together, so they shared the difference. Neither shaft goes to the very end of the fitting (less than a 1/4" short). Should that work OK?

My other option is the pull the motor back off and take a drill to one set of holes on the log splitter, so I can slide the motor a little closer (the other set of holes on the motor side is wide, which allows for some variance.

There is no place I can attach the vibration arm on the top. There are three big items up there. Gas tank, muffler and air filter. None of those are good candidates for attaching a firm bolt to hold the engine steady with. There is a place near the bottom I might make something work, but what's the point down there, as there are already four bolts holding it to the splitter frame.

I'll run out tomorrow morning for the oil so I can try it out!


----------



## Wife'nHubby

I can't answer your first question but regarding the vibration arm - I removed mine - in my case it was not needed with the replacement motor we put on.

Shari


----------



## bigblock73

I couldn't find a good place to mount the bar, so I left it off.
So far, So good


----------



## Brokk

So far, so good. It's running well. There is not a set idle, so I have to play around with that a bit. Depending on where I idle it, it can vibrate all over, or hardly vibrate at all. Right now I'm running the idle pretty low (least vibration). So far, it's split everything I throw at it, with no hint of wanting to stall. I'm guessing a lower idle is OK, since it's a higher HP than the original B&S (6.5 rather than 5). If I could hook up the vibration arm, I would run a higher idle. Any thoughts on whether higher or lower idle is better for it?

One modification I did make was to add an exhaust "shield". The muffler is pointed right where I sit when splitting, so I'm sucking in major fumes. Not healthy. So I used some sheet metal to redirect it to the side. It's not perfect, and the air cleaner is likely pulling some in now, but it's better than it was, for me at least.


----------



## Cigarman

I have the same issue with the muffler pointing right at the control valve area. What I did was move to the other side of the splitter to work. It is much better working on that side, fumes wise.
You shouldn't need the vibration arm if your motor is mounted tightly to the frame of the splitter. My motor is a Briggs and Stratton 8.75 HP and I run it full out. I read somewhere that it is not good to fun these motors at anything other than full for long periods of time (which is what you're doing when using the splitter). I cannot remember where I read it but I'm pretty sure it was in a splitter motor replacement thread.
Apparently the different HP doesn't really affect how the pump works.


----------



## jeffrm20

Howdy everyone, got a Didier from a friend dirt cheap. Sat for 5 or so odd years. When I got it, it didn't run. Cleaned all the surface rust off of the magneto and flywheeel. She started right up. My problem is, that I have a major seal leak on the ram. Could someone provide me with a seal kit part number so I can get this fixed before winter hits. Not ready for the snow!

Thanks.

BTW this thread has been super useful!

Jeff


----------



## jeffrm20

Here is my splitter, got the ram off this morning. Getting ready to disassemble it.

Surprisingly this motor still runs like a champ!


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Jeff - 

If you read through all the threads, you will realize Didier is no longer made so part numbers don't really help. The consensus of the group has been to remove the cylinder and, if you can, take it to either a hydraulics store or a farm impliment store (which is what I did) and they should be able to get you the parts or even do the repair.

Happy splitting! 

EDIT: PS If you want the manuals I have in .pdf file format, click on my name in the box at the left and send me you email address via a pm. The list won't allow sending files directly to the list. 

Shari


----------



## Cigarman

Jeff,
Ditto on what Shari wrote. I too recently bought one of these splitters, though mine has a newer motor on it. However after mine had sat for a number of years and the ram and also the check valve were leaking badly. I could split wood but it was leaking out the ram shaft. I took mine apart, Dismantled the check valve and remover the O-Rings and brought the O-rings from the check valve and the ram to a local hydraulic repair shop. They rebuilt my ram in front of me! The seals and rings basically disintegrated in front of my eyes when they disassembled the Ram. I got a ram rebuild , two O-Rings and a length of new hose for $82.50
Mark


----------



## jeffrm20

Thanks for that info. Ive made a few phone calls, but so far havent found anyone who will touch it. I am more than capable of dismantling the ram, but I'd rather have a shop do it so I know it's right. $100 is nothing to have a fully working splitter for under $200


----------



## Cigarman

I can fix just about anything. But I didn't have the proper tool to get the ram end cap to turn so I could get the spline out.
When I brought it to the shop and watched the tech rebuild the thing I was happy I'd brought it to them. He measured the gaps and came back with the proper size seals and rings in a minute. The old seals and rings basically just disintegrated once the ram was open.
Go to the highway department or a farm and ask them where they get their hydraulic equipment repaired.


----------



## mama

I just had my carb rebuilt and it runs good now. Would a bigger motor give some more grunt than my 5 horse B&S. Motor still has some life left in it.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

The replacement motor we put on is a 5.5HP B&S. No complaints with the 5.5. Even starts on first or second pull. 

Shari


----------



## mama

Does anyone here have a copy of the repair manual and IPL, I could sure use one as I think I will be needing one soon. Thanks.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

mama said:


> Does anyone here have a copy of the repair manual and IPL, I could sure use one as I think I will be needing one soon. Thanks.



Click on my name on the left and send me a pm with your email address.

Shari


----------



## barmason

*Splitters*

Hi

ive had a didier panther splitter that i purchased brand new in the early 70's.
Ive split over 100 cords of wood easily. This splitter has never faultered, itys been a great machine .the seal on the cylinder has finally gone and i saw on this sight that someone had rebuilt the cylinder for around 70.00 dollars 
with a new seal kit.
Does anyone know where to get this seal kit, 

barmason


----------



## Wife'nHubby

I am not aware of any 'kit' to repair these cylinders as the Didier is no longer manufactured. Best bet is take your cylinder to a hydraulic repair shop or a farm implement dealer and see if they have parts. By the way, it's not expensive to have them do the work.

Shari



barmason said:


> Hi
> 
> ive had a didier panther splitter that i purchased brand new in the early 70's.
> Ive split over 100 cords of wood easily. This splitter has never faultered, itys been a great machine .the seal on the cylinder has finally gone and i saw on this sight that someone had rebuilt the cylinder for around 70.00 dollars
> with a new seal kit.
> Does anyone know where to get this seal kit,
> 
> barmason


----------



## Rookie1

Wife'nHubby said:


> I am not aware of any 'kit' to repair these cylinders as the Didier is no longer manufactured. Best bet is take your cylinder to a hydraulic repair shop or a farm implement dealer and see if they have parts. By the way, it's not expensive to have them do the work.
> 
> Shari



Like Shari says take the cylinder to a repair shop. More or less the cylinders are all similar inside and they were put on more than just splitters.


----------



## Pmoper

*Is it worth my time and money*

OK, not to upset the garden cart or rub anyone the wrong way....But, I have a chance to purchase a Didier splitter for what sounds like a very good price...$400.....runs good, ram moves without issues...nothing seems to be leaking....My question is....Is it worth it...? I have minimal knowledge in this area but am gaining rapidly...any help would be appreciated...thanks....Paul:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Pmoper said:


> OK, not to upset the garden cart or rub anyone the wrong way....But, I have a chance to purchase a Didier splitter for what sounds like a very good price...$400.....runs good, ram moves without issues...nothing seems to be leaking....My question is....Is it worth it...? I have minimal knowledge in this area but am gaining rapidly...any help would be appreciated...thanks....Paul:hmm3grin2orange:




Well........... good question. I bought ours around 8-9 years ago with a bad engine (knew that at the time) - paid either $175 - $250 for it (can't remember for sure - I'm getting old!  ) and added a $200ish BS engine. At the time, new splitters were running around $1,000. The ram leaked after a few years - had that rebuilt for around $75. Right now I'm splitting around 3-4 cord per year as we are now heating with wood. Previously we split only around 1 cord per year so we hadn't used it a lot but now that has changed.

Ram speed I think is rated around 16 seconds which sounds a little slow compared to today's splitters. If you look at the 'lift job' Triptester did on mine along with the log lift he fabbed up I love the splitter in its current configuration and would have a real hard time going back to original. 

I guess what I'm saying is you would be buying probably a 1970-1980's splitter for slightly less than 1/2 of a new one. Compare the features of the new models, including the height of the machine, and make your choice.

Here's the specs - I think my original spec image went missing from Photobucket:







Shari


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Here's a link to show the mods list member Triptester did on my splitter. This link might be somehwere in all the above conversation but I sticking here again just in case:

*http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/168359.htm*

Shari


----------



## Pmoper

Wife'nHubby said:


> Well........... good question. I bought ours around 8-9 years ago with a bad engine (knew that at the time) - paid either $175 - $250 for it (can't remember for sure - I'm getting old!  ) and added a $200ish BS engine. At the time, new splitters were running around $1,000. The ram leaked after a few years - had that rebuilt for around $75. Right now I'm splitting around 3-4 cord per year as we are now heating with wood. Previously we split only around 1 cord per year so we hadn't used it a lot but now that has changed.
> 
> Ram speed I think is rated around 16 seconds which sounds a little slow compared to today's splitters. If you look at the 'lift job' Triptester did on mine along with the log lift he fabbed up I love the splitter in its current configuration and would have a real hard time going back to original.
> 
> I guess what I'm saying is you would be buying probably a 1970-1980's splitter for slightly less than 1/2 of a new one. Compare the features of the new models, including the height of the machine, and make your choice.
> 
> Here's the specs - I think my original spec image went missing from Photobucket:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shari


You mentioned ram spped to be about 16 seconds...is that one way or a complete cycle.....(split and return...) Thanks for the input....Paul


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Pmoper said:


> You mentioned ram spped to be about 16 seconds...is that one way or a complete cycle.....(split and return...) Thanks for the input....Paul



Paul, 

Most probably one way. Mine might be a tad faster because we have updated the engine.

Another whole topic that has been discussed throughout AS is the location of the wedge: Our wedge is on the end of the rail. If/when a split pops while being split on our Didier, it pops up & away from the operator. A lot of the newer splitters have the wedge on the ram, a few have the wedge on the rail. To each his own I would say.

Shari


----------



## phonetd

*Didier splitter*



specter said:


> Many THANKS go out to Shari for emailing me a copy of the original owners manual and sale brochure! That sure helped me figure this splitter out.
> 
> I only have about 1/4" of the pin still stuck in the channel to remove. I already found a place that can sell me all the seals I need to rebuild the cylinder.
> 
> TOM



Hey Specter,
I just registered with this site looking for info on Didier splitters. Do you think you could forword that info Shari sent you to me at [email protected]. That would be a huge help for me. 
Thank you,
Tom


----------



## Ben Petrone

*log splitter*



catfish1 said:


> Hello,
> I am going to look at an old Didier splitter in a few days. It is a bit of a Frankenstein of a splitter. It has "Didier 20" on the cylinder. I am not familiar with this brand. From what I gather, they went out of business some time ago. It has a brand new 6 1/2 HP engine on it. Would this be a 20 ton splitter? They are asking 500$ CDN. Anyone have any knowledge of this company? Thanks.



Hi Ben here if you buy it ,they dont make them any more i have one and cannot understand why they dont make them any more i have had mine for 30plus years and it is still, going had to replace the motor and one hose ,I burn at least 12 cord a year and at one time i was heating a barn with a wood furnace and for about 15 yrs burned 25 to 30 cord a yr.cant say enough about it. i am now looking for brass side rails for it can any one help.TKS


----------



## richt100

*Didier Splitter*

I just replaced the motor on mine. Originally it had a 4 HP but I settled for a 3 1/2 (I'm frugal). The 6 HP is probably a better choice. My 3 1/2 dies when going through heavy or knotted stuff. But, I love the splitter, it does great work. My only other replacement was the HP hydraulic hose that Jake my dog chewed through. He's nuts.:biggrin:


----------



## pajeepman

I have LMF19 going by the chart below. Cycle time is painfully slow(about 30 seconds). Anybody know what pump would help. Seems to be a Haldex Hydraulic Pump-11 GPM 2-Stage #1001689 or a speeco pump are the primary ones availble on line(on ebay especially). Splitter is so slow I have been using a maul and will just use the splitter after I have split the "easy" would off the rounds.

Also. most of the wording on my screen at this site is in German(I think). Any clue why, it never used to be and I can't read German to try and figure out how to switch it back


----------



## Wife'nHubby

pajeepman said:


> Also. most of the wording on my screen at this site is in German(I think). Any clue why, it never used to be and I can't read German to try and figure out how to switch it back




Pictures might help w/language problem if you can't read my post:

http://www.arboristsite.com/support-announcements/175983.htm


----------



## triptester

The LMF 19 came with a single stage pump probaly a 3gpm. switching to a 11 gpm 2-stage should cut the cycle time in half.


----------



## triptester

Beside Ebay other places for log splitter pumps are;

Hydraulic Supply | Dalton Hydraulics | Tie Rod Cylinders
Surplus Center
Hydraulic Pumps | Hydraulics | Northern Tool + Equipment


----------



## mama

*points*

Has anyone replaced the points on there Didier splitter.


----------



## richt100

*Didier Splitter Points*



mama said:


> Has anyone replaced the points on there Didier splitter.



Are you referring to the engine points? I know of no other points on the splitter.


----------



## mama

Yes engine points.


----------



## richt100

*Engine Points*

The engine points are located under the flyweel. I assume your engine is as old as the one I had on mine. The replacement armature coil that I bought now eliminates points. So, maybe that is why you can't find it.:rolleyes2:


----------



## mama

I've never replaced the points since I've had the splitter. The next couple of days I'll check them out. Would like to do away with the points. Have considered a new motor being this is the original engine.


----------



## richt100

*New Engine*

I bought a new motor for mine. The old motor kept breaking shear keys and killing the engine. It was just too old, gears kept binding. I bought a 3 1/2 HP, which is probably on the small size. As you can see from the table provided by Wife'nHubby 5 HP is the recommended size. Plan on paying about $400 for a new one (ouch).


----------



## Cigarman

Mine has a Newer Briggs and Stratton 8.75 on it. Runs fantastic and has a quick cycle too.


----------



## DodgeTrucker91

*Troy Bilt Didier*

Just found your site today, excellent information. i have an oddball (maybe) that I'm looking for info on. I just picked up a Garden Way/Troy Bilt splitter yesterday (977 mile round trip to MD from OH in 19 hours, am I nuts?!?!). It is a Model L2000 and is designed to mount to a Troy Bilt "Horse" tiller in place of the rear tines and gear box assembly. Mine clearly shows "Didier Mfg., a division of Douglas Dynamics, Milwaukee, WI" on the data tag, with the model & serial numbers. The safety and instruction stickers are also clearly marked "Garden Way Mfg., Troy, NY" and "Troy Bilt Log Splitter' and, though peeling, are original. The owner's manual for my tiller (circa. 1989) shows this splitter, as well as a chipper/shredder, a generator, and a blade as accessories for the tiller, but little information beyond the typical "contact your dealer for further details". My local dealer has handled Troy Bilt from the '70s and stated that the splitter was still available new up until Troy Bilt's bankruptcy, when it and Bolens were sold to MTD of Cleveland, OH. He thought the original retail was in the $1200-$1300 range when last available. I have a e-mail in to Douglas Dynamics, with is now in the snow removal business, to see if they can shed a little bit of light (maybe). I came up with nothing on Troy Bilt's site so far, but may contact them by phone Monday.
Any members have anything on this? Anything I find out I will try to pass on, to increase the general knowledge of things. I am looking for an owner's manual and/or any specs on this unit. I will try to post a couple of pics if I can figure out how to get my phone and computer to talk to each other (e-tech is not my bag, no nuts or bolts to hold it together. But, I am trying to learn). Thanks in advance for any info you all may be able to pass along. :msp_thumbup:


----------



## triptester

Here is a link to a previous thread.

http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/188781.htm


----------



## DodgeTrucker91

Thanks for the link. I didn't even think to do a search by model #. As an update, I just received an e-mail from Troy Bilt with a pdf. for the owner's manual and the parts list. I'll also post this on the "L2000" thread. It'll take me a couple of days to get it into a form I can use, but I should be able to pass it along to anyone who needs it. :msp_thumbup:


----------



## Keith Blair

*Didier splitters - I need help*



Wife'nHubby said:


> Here's a spec sheet on Didier's - hope you can read it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shari



I have a Hydra-Splitter here. Marvellous, but it has had no service attention for ages. What hydraulic fluid do I use in the ram reservoir? Can I down-load a handbook anywhere? Any help would be most welcome. These machines are rare here in the UK.

I'm getting a good wood-pile, and would like to give the splitter some love and care so it remains a faithful friend.

Thanks

Keith (new member)


----------



## sawbuckjohn

*I got my Didier running, splitting well*

Hi everybody, I want to thank past posters for the info and throw a special thank you to Shari, Compliment Triptester on the mods and share a little. I got my splitter in non running, partially disassembled, condition(of course). So after I got the 10 hp. Briggs(replacement engine) running, I examined, and inspected the pump,valve, cylinder, tank ,Hoses and found them pretty good by outward appearances.I drained the rest of the oil out of everything I could, After welding the pump bracket to the frame, mounting pump and coupling, Adding new 10 weight hyd. oil., I fired it up and it ran the cylinder out(no load) and retracted it slowly. I cycled it a few more times and it began to studder. I cycled it many more times thinking I now had all the air cycled out of the system. I then started dismantling components and rechecking. Now I know that it's almost impossible to tell some worn out parts, but I could seeno worn o-rings, no scoring, etc.- I re adjusted the 2 stage pressure setting and installed a washer in the control valve bypass, and no change. I was able to turn the cyl rod by hand, which I thought was odd, so I began to suspect the cyl. rings & packing. Thinking I was getting blowby I started checking to see how to dismantle it, kinda figured that out, decided to take the cylinder to my JR Hydraulics, and pay. I pondered it some more and decided to try one more thing. I had always thought that if you cycle it enough you would get all the air out of the system, but not so. I removed the front hose from the cyl(fully retracted) and removed the elbow, poured in some oil..., then some more..., then some more, and finally it burped out. Put it back together and VOILA!!! Worked like a champ! I tried bigger and bigger pieces, and could see and hear it kicking into high pressure stage etc. Knotty stuff and even standing up and down stuff, crack! right through! I love it.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Welcome to the Didier group! 

Shari


----------



## sawbuckjohn

Keith Blair said:


> I have a Hydra-Splitter here. Marvellous, but it has had no service attention for ages. What hydraulic fluid do I use in the ram reservoir? Can I down-load a handbook anywhere? Any help would be most welcome. These machines are rare here in the UK.
> 
> I'm getting a good wood-pile, and would like to give the splitter some love and care so it remains a faithful friend.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Keith (new member)



Hey Keith,
Since noone else is jumping in here, I want to try. I know there is a manual download available, I think possibly in a previous thread, however, if you ask Shari nicely, She might send it to you. On the issue of oil, the manual may tell you, but my experience tells me to first determine what's in it. If it's red, it's Automatic Trannsmission Fluid more than likely. Do not mix regular 10 weight with it, rather decide what you want to run in it, good idea to drain all the oil out of the hydraulic system and fill it back up. I run 10weight hydraulic oil, many people run ATF,(type F). DO NOT MIX the two.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Sawbuck - I already sent him the manuals.

If anyone knows if I could make the Didier manuals a sticky note somewhere I'd be all for it.

Shari


----------



## Cigarman

sawbuckjohn said:


> Hey Keith,
> Since noone else is jumping in here, I want to try. I know there is a manual download available, I think possibly in a previous thread, however, if you ask Shari nicely, She might send it to you. On the issue of oil, the manual may tell you, but my experience tells me to first determine what's in it. If it's red, it's Automatic Trannsmission Fluid more than likely. Do not mix regular 10 weight with it, rather decide what you want to run in it, good idea to drain all the oil out of the hydraulic system and fill it back up. I run 10weight hydraulic oil, many people run ATF,(type F). DO NOT MIX the two.




My Diddier had regular motor oil in it. So that's what I wound up refilling it with.
Runs great and a little cheaper than the Hydraulic oil.
The original owners manual states you can use either 10W-30-40 motor oil or Hydraulic fluid.


----------



## Keith Blair

*Thanks from Keith Blair*



Wife'nHubby said:


> Sawbuck - I already sent him the manuals.
> 
> If anyone knows if I could make the Didier manuals a sticky note somewhere I'd be all for it.
> 
> Shari



Dear Shari

I enjoyed reading your notes about Didier and its history. I was impressed by how quickly you and Cigarman came back with some answers. There are some interesting parallels on the screen. We've had a Jotul, which was really good. That was our first wood stove, the tall one like a flatiron with 2 big cooking rings. Then we got a Cotswold (made in the UK Midlands - all 1/2 inch steel and cast iron). We cook on that too. Now we are going for a Dunsley Highlander 10, made in Yorkshire, with boiler, to back up our solar hot water and PV electricity. When the lights go out, at least we'll be warm. We cut our wood with a couple of Stihls. Last one lasted from 1977 until now - my brother-in-law still has it. Pretty reliable - and after 30 years, you can get parts. Eat your heart out competition - Stihl is dear, but you get what you pay for.

Sorry, I didn't get the manual download you mention, but I would love it. I was in Milwaukee in 1983 to see Harley. I liked the town, it's got real character. The Didier looks like it was designed by someone with German relatives - rugged is the word. Do you actually work for the folk who took over the Didier brand? You sound well-informed. Anyway, thanks for your support. If you'd like to email the manual, I'll be you best friend.

Keith


----------



## Keith Blair

*Thanks from Keith Blair*



Cigarman said:


> My Diddier had regular motor oil in it. So that's what I wound up refilling it with.
> Runs great and a little cheaper than the Hydraulic oil.
> The original owners manual states you can use either 10W-30-40 motor oil or Hydraulic fluid.



Cigarman - that's good news. 10W-40 will do nicely, a real air-cooled motorcycle engine oil. We've always got that. I'm grateful to you for your trouble. Since I'm writing, do you know if anyone has replacement jaws (the ones that go round the top of the I-beam)? It looks like these distort with time. Otherwise, I shall have to get some made.

Have a good weekend.

Keith


----------



## Cigarman

Keith Blair said:


> Cigarman - that's good news. 10W-40 will do nicely, a real air-cooled motorcycle engine oil. We've always got that. I'm grateful to you for your trouble. Since I'm writing, do you know if anyone has replacement jaws (the ones that go round the top of the I-beam)? It looks like these distort with time. Otherwise, I shall have to get some made.
> 
> Have a good weekend.
> 
> Keith



There are, to the best of my knowledge, no specific parts available for any of these machines. I had my ram rebuilt at a hydraulic shop and then when I needed a valve I bought it at a farm supply store that carried hydraulic parts. Anything you'd need like those jaws would have to be a custom or retro-fit job.
Best of luck to you.


----------



## Keith Blair

Cigarman said:


> There are, to the best of my knowledge, no specific parts available for any of these machines. I had my ram rebuilt at a hydraulic shop and then when I needed a valve I bought it at a farm supply store that carried hydraulic parts. Anything you'd need like those jaws would have to be a custom or retro-fit job.
> Best of luck to you.



Thanks, my friend. I'll see what I can arrange, and let you know. After 30+ years of use, this must be a popular item for replacement. It definitely needs doing before failure and additional damage is done to the ram or other less replaceable items.

Enjoy the Spring sunshine!

Keith


----------



## Cigarman

Keith Blair said:


> Thanks, my friend. I'll see what I can arrange, and let you know. After 30+ years of use, this must be a popular item for replacement. It definitely needs doing before failure and additional damage is done to the ram or other less replaceable items.
> 
> Enjoy the Spring sunshine!
> 
> Keith



Yeah Cheers Keith, The weather was splendid here in Upstate New York today.
I purchased my Hydra-Splitter last fall and it had been sitting idle (outside, but covered) for years. Upon getting it going I had some slight leaking in the ram seals. I wound up just replacing all the hoses as a preventative measure and then had the seals and rings replaced on the ram. It runs like a champ now. Good for another 30 years... at least.


----------



## bigblock73

Keith Blair said:


> Cigarman - that's good news. 10W-40 will do nicely, a real air-cooled motorcycle engine oil. We've always got that. I'm grateful to you for your trouble. Since I'm writing, do you know if anyone has replacement jaws (the ones that go round the top of the I-beam)? It looks like these distort with time. Otherwise, I shall have to get some made.
> 
> Have a good weekend.
> 
> Keith



I had a local machine shop make them for me.
It was $90 for the bronze and $110 for the machining.
Not cheap but works great


----------



## Braintree

I'm fairly new here so hello.I pick up a mf26 from a guy up the road for $150.00.Rebuild ram with gold 5hp.She runs good after I lock tite the bolts to the carb.But I didn't hook up all the springs that going to the linkage.When I got it they were off so,I was hoping that it would show how to hook all that stuff in the manuals that Shari has.I will shot her a P.M. Thank you,Paul


----------



## fred seely

*Didier*

I have a Didier SB26M. I need a new pump for it. Any suggestions?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Fred


----------



## pajeepman

troy built roto tiller w/firewood splitter
Date: 2012-03-21, 9:31PM

Old troy built roto tiller with wood splitter attachment. For parts or rebuild 8 hp motor. Drive right to wood pile.

Responded to this ad on CL. Guy called today and said it was sold. I was the 2nd guy to respond, first guy bought it. The killer is the price was $100:msp_ohmy:. Damn and my dad has a Troy built tiller that works.


----------



## triptester

fred seely said:


> I have a Didier SB26M. I need a new pump for it. Any suggestions?
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Fred



The pump for your splitter will be determined by the engine hp. If the engine is 5-6 hp.a 11 gpm 2-stage pump will work. If the engine is 8-9 hp a 16 gpm 2-stage pump will work.


----------



## BlackRock

2coldHere said:


> I'll put on a log. Then I'll push the ram's handle down to make the ram go forward. It works fine till it hits its max extension point. Once it hits that point it immediately stalls my engine. I have to re-start the engine and put the handle in reverse.
> 
> Same thing in the reverse cycle. Ram retracts fine, but when it fully retracts and hits its max "in" spot it immediately stalls my engine.
> 
> Is that action (stalling the engine when the ram extends fully) normal? Do all splitters do that? If it's a malfunction, what's your best guess about what's wrong and how to fix it?



I am having the exact same problem. Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,

Dave


----------



## triptester

The relief valve setting is set too high.


----------



## BlackRock

OK, this is what I have.View attachment 231498


----------



## BlackRock

Is this the relief valve where I took off the orange rubber cover? If so, do I just give the bolt a minor turn and try it out?View attachment 231500


----------



## triptester

The uncovered part is the return detent. The pressure relief adjustment should be under the smaller cap to the left of the detent section.


----------



## BlackRock

This morning I removed the smaller cap and adjusted the allen screw. It works perfectly now. Thank you very much for your input triptester.


----------



## bigblock73

*Detent valve*

I have ,what I think, is an older didier splitter.
It has the valve on the side of the piston,not on the top.
I would like to put a detent valve on it.
Is there one made for the side or will I have to modify to put a top mount on.

Thanks


----------



## triptester

Control valves for splitters can be mounted almost anywhere hose routing will allow.


----------



## ShaneLogs

I have thought I have saw a Didier splitter before, My Aunt's best friends dad use to own Montgomery Ward. They use to be good splitters and still are!


----------



## bigblock73

This is how mines mounted
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachm...g-equipment/168817d1295389326-0118011658b-jpg


----------



## ShaneLogs

bigblock73 said:


> This is how mines mounted
> http://www.arboristsite.com/attachm...g-equipment/168817d1295389326-0118011658b-jpg



Cool splitter, I see you are pulling it with the mighty Craftsman


----------



## Bucko

Mine is exactly the same Bigblock. Slow but reliable. I usually turn the kids loose with it and run my Iron and Oak myself.


----------



## bigblock73

That's a pic I found/borrowed 
Mine looks the same just pulled by a John Deere instead


----------



## bigblock73

I purchased this one from northern tool
I should get it by the end of the week.

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/2020_lg.jpg


----------



## vermontster

Just inherited what I think is a Didier labeled as Agway. I'm getting it from my grandfather and it hasn't been run for a few years. Hopefully I can get it going again.


----------



## bigblock73

After 3 hours of grinding, welding and drilling the new valve is installed.I start it and I'm amazed,no leaks.
I pull on the lever to extend the ram and nothing.
Push the lever into the return with the detent and it extends. :msp_mad:
It's backwards.
I knew it was to easy.
I have to swap the hard lines to make it work correctly.
This means they have to be longer 
I'm going to take them to NAPA and see if they can make them longer.

Still have a couple of hours of daylight so I jump on my tractor to try and get some mowing done.It's running like crap.Now I have 2 things to work on


----------



## bigblock73

Well
Took the hard lines to NAPA to have them make me longer ones.
The nice counter man pulls out a book and says the 90 degree fittings are $37.50each,thats $150 for just the fittings.I say thank you but thats a lot more then I'm willing to spend.

Go to the local hardware store and pick up some 90 degree black pipe fittings,hoping to make it so I need straight hoses and fittings.
Started messing with it and put 2 90's together and find that the longer tube will fit,now I'm going to try to get the shorter to fit .If this works I'll have $10 instead of around $200 into the conversion.


----------



## bigblock73

Five 90 degree elbows and it's ready to go
Split some big stuff and it works well
So much easier having the detent


----------



## bigblock73

Anyone want the old valve
Free plus shipping


----------



## bigblock73

vermontster said:


> Just inherited what I think is a Didier labeled as Agway. I'm getting it from my grandfather and it hasn't been run for a few years. Hopefully I can get it going again.



That's the same one I have.Yours looks like it hasn't been used in a long time and could use some TLC.
These things are work horses and probably will last forever with care.
I found all the info, from these great guys on here, to get mine going and make it better.

Didier was a genius,I bet he made a ton of money with the patent


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Make sure you check out the mods that Triptester did to my Didier: http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/168359.htm

Slide down that thread till you see the pictures......

It works awesome!

Shari


----------



## bigblock73

Wife'nHubby said:


> Make sure you check out the mods that Triptester did to my Didier: http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/168359.htm
> 
> Slide down that thread till you see the pictures......
> 
> It works awesome!
> 
> Shari



I was thinking about that mod. when I was down on my knee's fighting with some big rounds. I have a full garage and the nice thing about the Didier is how small it is


----------



## Wife'nHubby

bigblock73 said:


> I was thinking about that mod. when I was down on my knee's fighting with some big rounds. I have a full garage and the nice thing about the Didier is how small it is



What is also nice about Triptester's mod to my Didier is that both the table and the lift are removeable and can be 'stored' under the splitter so the splitter really doesn't take up any more storage space than prior to the mod. The only 'storage difference' is that it is taller.

Shari


----------



## DonEllis

*just bought didier splitter need info*

just picker up splitter newer 6.5 hp motor cylinder leaks 
cant find much info
appears to be 4 in h series
need to rebuild very handy but never worked on hydro
how difficult to replace seals?
also any info would be great
need to replace brass slides worn out any idea where to get parts?


----------



## bigblock73

Congratulations on your Didier find
I know there is a lot of posts in this thread but all your questions and more are answered if you read through.


----------



## DonEllis

*Problem rebuilding?*

OK pulled retaining clip and end cap spins free but will only pull out 1/4 inch
even with gear puller wont budge
Am I missing something or should I get out big hammerView attachment 241688


----------



## bigblock73

Don
I can't help you as I took mine to a hydraulic shop to have repaired.
One of these good guys on this site will have the info for you.

Tom


----------



## ScottJ

*Didier Manuals*

I just picked up a Didier log splitter at a garage sale. Would not start but took a gamble on it. I was able to get it running and it worked ok for a while but then started to only work intermittently. So far I found and repaired a kicked suction line and a worn valve lever (was not moving the spool enough). Last night I tested the piston seals as described somewhere on this forum (great source of info) and the seals seem to be passing allot of fluid. The next step is to pull the cylinder apart and see if anyone local can provide new seals. I am looking for some info on how to disassemble my cylinder. My splitter was sold as an Agway and has a model number of 19S on the tag. The cylinder end has three bolts that hold the piston wiper in place. How do I remove the shaft seal behind the wiper? Snap ring? Threaded? Can someone provide a manual? Thanks for your advice.


----------



## Hampton1825

*Hi guys, was just given a Monty Ward splitter*

Thank goodness I've found your forum. It doesn't run and it looks like this is the place I need to be at to figure it out. First, let me post a pic and see if anyone here can tell me what the model is and where to find the manual.View attachment 245508


UPDATE: I just finished reading every post in this thread. Wow. It seems the fastest course to getting this thing up and running is to just order the Harbor Freight Predator engine. I can see myself fussing with the engine for weeks and I need to find out if I've got other issues or not. I need to start splitting wood before time gets away from me. If anyone thinks just replacing the engine outright is a bad idea, please let me know. Also if anyone has the manual, I will be most thankful if you could send it along to [email protected]

Thanks everyone!!!


----------



## bigblock73

Hey
Nice splitter,I have the same one.
Looking at the pic I would suggest getting a new engine,I did.It's not worth the time trying to get that one running.I put a lot of time getting mine running and it was to weak to operate the ram.
Replace the engine, change the hydraulic fluid and give it a try.
Mine leaked at the front seal and I had the ram rebuilt with all new seals.

I don't have a manual and don't think it would help much.These splitters are very simple and easy to use


----------



## Hampton1825

Thanks bigblock. I appreciate the feedback!



bigblock73 said:


> Hey
> Nice splitter,I have the same one.
> Looking at the pic I would suggest getting a new engine,I did.It's not worth the time trying to get that one running.I put a lot of time getting mine running and it was to weak to operate the ram.
> Replace the engine, change the hydraulic fluid and give it a try.
> Mine leaked at the front seal and I had the ram rebuilt with all new seals.
> 
> I don't have a manual and don't think it would help much.These splitters are very simple and easy to use


----------



## mellow

Hey Guys, good thread, I am stumped about the splitter I just acquired and hopefully someone can tell me something more about it.

Label on the ram and on the beam list this as a speeco but the looks of it say Didier, a search on google brings up nothing about this splitter. 

The engine mount is different than a Didier as well.

It runs good and starts on first pull, I am guessing it is a 15 ton unit.

I have read all 18 pages on here about the Didier splitters and I am wondering if they also made speeco products at one time?

View attachment 247165
View attachment 247166
View attachment 247167
View attachment 247168


----------



## bigblock73

That one looks to new to be a Didier
Same basic design though

Here's a pic of a Didier:
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachm...ning-equipment/239406d1337955456-dsc_2023-jpg


----------



## Hampton1825

*New Engine*

Ok, guys. Tomorrow I pull the trigger on the Harbor Freight Predator engine. Not sure how long they take to ship, but I'll take plenty of pics and check in to let you know how it goes. Does anyone know if I'm going to have to drill any holes? I'm hoping it bolts right on, but expecting the worst.


----------



## mama

Hampton1825 said:


> Ok, guys. Tomorrow I pull the trigger on the Harbor Freight Predator engine. Not sure how long they take to ship, but I'll take plenty of pics and check in to let you know how it goes. Does anyone know if I'm going to have to drill any holes? I'm hoping it bolts right on, but expecting the worst.



I installed a 6.5 hp Harbour Freight motor on my Didier splitter last year and what a difference in power, alot more than the stock 5 hp had.


----------



## sawbuckjohn

Hampton1825 said:


> Ok, guys. Tomorrow I pull the trigger on the Harbor Freight Predator engine. Not sure how long they take to ship, but I'll take plenty of pics and check in to let you know how it goes. Does anyone know if I'm going to have to drill any holes? I'm hoping it bolts right on, but expecting the worst.




Harbor freight usually has the 6.5 engine in stock, but whatever,. I wanted to tell you that if you use the threaded holes on the shaft side of the predator to mount the pump, be careful, because it seems to me they strip very easily. Lock washers and locktite are advisable.


----------



## triptester

I believe the reason the threads seem to strip out easily is that the threads are a metric size that is just slightly different then SAE threads. If the wrong bolts are used they will start easily but then slowly damage the aluminum threads as the bolt is tightened.


----------



## Hampton1825

Did you need to drill in holes in the splitter or did the mounting holes on the engine line-up ok?



sawbuckjohn said:


> Harbor freight usually has the 6.5 engine in stock, but whatever,. I wanted to tell you that if you use the threaded holes on the shaft side of the predator to mount the pump, be careful, because it seems to me they strip very easily. Lock washers and locktite are advisable.


----------



## sawbuckjohn

Hampton1825 said:


> Did you need to drill in holes in the splitter or did the mounting holes on the engine line-up ok?


 I did use metric bolts. maybe I'm too strong. also I haven't mounted one on the Didier, I'm talking other applications, but an easy way to do it is to set the enging on a piece of cardboard and press down or bump it side to side or whatever, just to make an impression on the cardboard,cut it out, punch holes where the bolts go and lay it on the didier, see how it lines up.


----------



## Hampton1825

*update*

As promised, the Predator engine (212cc - Harbor Freight) bolted right in place on the splitter. It couldn't have been easier. The only challenge was getting the small "key" (not sure what it's called...but essentially the universal joint between the engine and the pump) off the old drive shaft. I soaked it pretty good with WD40 and then started carefully tapping it with a small hammer and eventually it came off. Oh, and it the hex bolt was totally rusted in place...so I soaked that also and then found that I had a set of hex drive heads with my all my other square drive, etc. sets. Good luck that was. So what I did was put that on a 3/8 socket wrench and gave it a hard careful twist and it came unglued. Finally, the engine fired right up. No issues at all.

So thanks for all the advice guys. You're really saving me a TON of money walking me through all this!
View attachment 248255


----------



## bigblock73

Congratulations
Hows it working


----------



## Hampton1825

bigblock73 said:


> Congratulations
> Hows it working



Engine fired up. Then I had to go on a business trip. I thought it best to change the fluid before I try it out for real (didn't want to rush it). Red fluid is tranny fluid, not true hydraulic fluid yes?


----------



## bigblock73

Red is trans
I use hydraulic fluid
I get it at the auto parts store by the gallon

Unless you use the splitter on level ground you'll need to disconnect the oil level cutoff switch.
It's the wires that come out of the block and into the little metal box.
I was using it on a small hill and couldn't get it to start,brought it into the garage thinking something was wrong .It started right up,brought it back to do some splitting,wouldn't start.I then figured it was the oil level switch.


----------



## Hampton1825

*Update on rebuild*

Hydraulic resevoir is rusted out on the bottom. Anyone dealt with this challenge?


----------



## bigblock73

The tank is to small anyway.The tanks on the newer ones are much bigger.
I want to increase the size of mine but haven't put much time into locating a bigger one.
I'll do a little searching and will let you know if i find anything.


----------



## bigblock73

Hydraulic Reservoir Tank for log splitters 5 gallon | eBay

You'll have to check the dimensions and see if it will work


----------



## tomtrees58

bigblock73 said:


> Hydraulic Reservoir Tank for log splitters 5 gallon | eBay
> 
> You'll have to check the dimensions and see if it will work


tractor supply has that tank 4 $80.00


----------



## triptester

I know everyone thinks bigger is better but the average Didier splitter is over 30 years old and has worked fine with their 1 gallon reservoir


----------



## bigblock73

The tank it comes with gets too hot
A bigger tank will help keep it cooler


----------



## Hampton1825

bigblock73 said:


> The tank it comes with gets too hot
> A bigger tank will help keep it cooler



I think I'm going to patch the old tank to make sure I don't have bigger fish to fry with the cylinder. I cleaned the bottom up with a torch and wire wheel and it's just pinholes from external moisture that can be cured with epoxy, fiberglass and maybe a bit of carbon fiber thrown in to boot. I can then be more thoughtful about upgrading the tank later.


----------



## sawbuckjohn

Hampton1825 said:


> I think I'm going to patch the old tank to make sure I don't have bigger fish to fry with the cylinder. I cleaned the bottom up with a torch and wire wheel and it's just pinholes from external moisture that can be cured with epoxy, fiberglass and maybe a bit of carbon fiber thrown in to boot. I can then be more thoughtful about upgrading the tank later.



That's exactly what I did, and it's been working fine for months.


----------



## triptester

bigblock73 said:


> The tank it comes with gets too hot
> A bigger tank will help keep it cooler



This is the reccomendation from a hydraulic fluid manufacturer .

Oil operating temperature should not exceed 200° F. (93° C.) with a maximum of 180° F. (82° C.) generally 
recommended. 120° F to 140° F. (50° C. to 60° C.) is generally considered the optimum system operating temperatures. High temperatures result in rapid oil deterioration and may point out a need for an oil cooler or a larger reservoir. The nearer to optimum temperature, the longer the service life of the oil and the hydraulic components.

The optimun operating temperature is about the same as the water in a domestic water heater.

At lower than optimun fluid temps air and moisture are more likely to be trapped causing pump damage.


----------



## bigblock73

I haven't measured the temp. but if I accidentally touch the tank it burns.More than 140 degree's


----------



## Hampton1825

*We're running!*

Ok, guys. Everything is hooked up and it's running great! Split 4 or 5 logs of varying size and hardness and everything seems to be A-OK. No leaks or anything. Since I had to do some work on the hydraulic tank, I went ahead and replaced with the TSC fluid (46).

Thanks for all the help guys. This has saved me so much $$$ http://www.arboristsite.com/images/smilies/clap.gif


----------



## Mac88

Hampton1825 said:


> Ok, guys. Everything is hooked up and it's running great! Split 4 or 5 logs of varying size and hardness and everything seems to be A-OK. No leaks or anything. Since I had to do some work on the hydraulic tank, I went ahead and replaced with the TSC fluid (46).
> 
> Thanks for all the help guys. This has saved me so much $$$ http://www.arboristsite.com/images/smilies/clap.gif



Cool. Clean up the rust on the hydraulics and put some paint on it and it's look really sharp.


----------



## Maxfab

*Looking for info on Didier splitter model SC26A*

Hi folks, great site and thread.
I am looking for information on my Didier splitter model SC26A. In particular i would like to know how many tons it is rated at and pump gpm. It has a Honda GX140 engine however looking at pictures here I don't think it's original. In fact it also looks like the cylinder has been turned 90 degrees and the oil tank raised with a couple of 2x6s. Issues I'm having seems to be common such as leak from the cylinder and the valve. The handle snapped on me so I put a longer home made lever. I plan on raising the beam for better ergonomics however there is also the issue of the exhaust going in the direction of the operator. For this reason, when I lift the beam off the base, I may also spin the base 180 deg so that the muffler is away from me. If I can get that clip out of the cylinder do you reccomend that I replace the seals myself or just bring it to a hydraulic place? I did find a seal kit for the Cross valve which is P/N 2V0003 although it is $30.
Any info and manual is much appreciated.
Thanks,
Max.


----------



## swed1162

*any info on my splitter?*

Hi Folks.Can anyone give me any info on my Didier splitter,it's a model #SB26 code 5H serial number 236579. I bought this used so I don't have the manual or any idea of when it was made ect. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks Ed


----------



## Toddfish

Hello, everyone.. I just purchased Didier 20ton splitter for $300. The oringinal motor did not run but after cleaning the carb and points, it run great. The next step was to try to cylinder to see if it works. Well it works but is leaking out the front seal ALOT. Can someone send me the owners guide and the seal kit part numbers. Thanks.. This looks like a great forum. tx Todd


----------



## Toddfish

Wife'nHubby said:


> h20togo:
> 
> Welcome to the "Didier Family" here on AS!
> 
> Shari



HI Shari, It look like you are the godess of Didier log splitter. I'm need to replace the seals and my newly purcased Didier splitter. Can you please forward me the owner manuals and any other documentaion for the seal replacing proceudres would be great. Thanks in advance . Todd


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Todd,

Files are already on the way to you.

The manuals won't help with replacement seals as Didier is no longer in business. Your best bet is to connect with either a farm implement dealer or hydraulic parts store for replacemtn seals.

I took my entire cylinder in to a farm implement store. They located comparable parts, installed the new parts and I was out the door for around $80.

PS I think the largest stock tonnage Didier made was 12T. If you are sure yours in more T's, then it may have been altered from original equipment.

Shari


----------



## steverus

*manual for didier splitter*

does anyone know where I can get a copy of a manual for my didier splitter. I looks just like the one that is seen in several postings on this thread. my email is [email protected]. thanks


----------



## Toddfish

*Thanks you*



Wife'nHubby said:


> Todd,
> 
> Files are already on the way to you.
> 
> The manuals won't help with replacement seals as Didier is no longer in business. Your best bet is to connect with either a farm implement dealer or hydraulic parts store for replacemtn seals.
> 
> I took my entire cylinder in to a farm implement store. They located comparable parts, installed the new parts and I was out the door for around $80.
> 
> PS I think the largest stock tonnage Didier made was 12T. If you are sure yours in more T's, then it may have been altered from original equipment.
> 
> Shari


Thanks Got the file and I will take it to the local farm equipment store.. tx Todd


----------



## hamerlaner

does any one have a owners or service manual for Didier splitter a parts list would be nice to my e-mail is [email protected] it would be greatly appreceated. thank you Joe


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Two files sent to Joe.

Shari


----------



## KLG

*Manuals for Didier wood splitter*

Hello, im looking for the manuals that came with the didier woodsplitter(model# UDR-24372-B). My father-in-law bought 1 from Montgomery Wards many years ago, and i would like to get a hold of those. My wife and I have been burning wood for a few years now and this is the machine that we use to split the wood. I must say that it has been an excellent splitter for us, but some of the parts are looking pretty rough and i would like to do a little rehab on it. Plus it would just be nice to have the manual it came with. Thank you. e-mail is [email protected]


----------



## specter

Your manual is on its way to your email address. Hope it helps.

Tom



KLG said:


> Hello, im looking for the manuals that came with the didier woodsplitter(model# UDR-24372-B). My father-in-law bought 1 from Montgomery Wards many years ago, and i would like to get a hold of those. My wife and I have been burning wood for a few years now and this is the machine that we use to split the wood. I must say that it has been an excellent splitter for us, but some of the parts are looking pretty rough and i would like to do a little rehab on it. Plus it would just be nice to have the manual it came with. Thank you. e-mail is [email protected]


----------



## kgip2k

I would like the manuals too please. [email protected]
Thanks
Kevin


----------



## KLG

specter said:


> Your manual is on its way to your email address. Hope it helps.
> 
> Tom



it does Tom, ty again and ty Shari :msp_smile:


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Files sent.

Shari


----------



## kgip2k

Thank you Shari


----------



## rmidcap

Wife'nHubby said:


> Mark,
> 
> Manual (2 attachments) on the way to your email.
> 
> Shari



Shari,

I also have an old didier, with no manuel. Would you mind sending me a copy also 
send to [email protected]


----------



## Wife'nHubby

rmidcap said:


> Shari,
> 
> I also have an old didier, with no manuel. Would you mind sending me a copy also
> send to [email protected]



File sent. 

Shari


----------



## rmidcap

*Didier log Splitter*

Shari,

Thank you very much, I received the manuals.

Again Thanks

Richardm


----------



## DaveRust

*Muffler*

I believe I have seen some articles on here about deflecting the exhaust away from the operator. Mine really creates an exhaust blast right in my face. I'm going to Lowes and get a large muffler with 3/4 inch threads, a 4 or 6 inch nipple and a 45 degree elbow and turn it away from me. I have done this with old Troy Bilt tillers as a replacement and it works ok. The inside of the B&S block is neatly threaded to take a 3/4 inch pipe. Makes a replacement easy. If the threads are rusty, chase them out with a 3/4 inch tap and clean them up. Be sure to use the star type nut used on conduit to keep this nipple from backing out of the block, without it, it will work back out and your muffler will fall down against the engine.

I'm not sure how to post to a new subject, and I may have done this as a reply to someone else. If I did, my apology.
Dave


----------



## smac41

*Didier Splitter Maunal Sought*

We borrowed our neighbor's Didier splitter. Suddenly it hasn't the power to split bread! It says model # B26A on it. Is there anyone out there who has an owner's manual for it? HELP! Please send to:
[email protected] or [email protected]

Thank you!!


----------



## Wife'nHubby

smac41 said:


> We borrowed our neighbor's Didier splitter. Suddenly it hasn't the power to split bread! It says model # B26A on it. Is there anyone out there who has an owner's manual for it? HELP! Please send to:
> [email protected] or [email protected]
> 
> Thank you!!



Look for:

1. Air leak in one or more of the hose lines or their connections.

2. Crimped hydraulic line.

3. Low hydraulic fluid.

Manuals sent.

Shari


----------



## triptester

Check for loose or slipping coupling between engine and pump. If the coupling is good and the items in the previous post are good the seals inside the cylinder may be worn. To check cylinder seals extend the ram about half way out , shut off engine ,put control valve in neutral position ,place a small jack between wedge and push plate. Apply force with the jack, the ram should move only slightly if able to push the ram back into the cylinder the seals are probably worn.


----------



## smac41

triptester said:


> Check for loose or slipping coupling between engine and pump. If the coupling is good and the items in the previous post are good the seals inside the cylinder may be worn. To check cylinder seals extend the ram about half way out , shut off engine ,put control valve in neutral position ,place a small jack between wedge and push plate. Apply force with the jack, the ram should move only slightly if able to push the ram back into the cylinder the seals are probably worn.



Thanks to all sending tips on our weak hydraulics! So glad I found this site! Our super fixer friend is coming over tomorrow, and we shall do a full investigation. I only hope we will be able to find the parts to fix it. It looks like it is the seals. I'll keep you posted!


----------



## Cigarman

DaveRust said:


> I believe I have seen some articles on here about deflecting the exhaust away from the operator. Mine really creates an exhaust blast right in my face.



I just operate mine from the opposite side away from the engine and it alleviates the exhaust in your face problem.


----------



## smac41

smac41 said:


> Thanks to all sending tips on our weak hydraulics! So glad I found this site! Our super fixer friend is coming over tomorrow, and we shall do a full investigation. I only hope we will be able to find the parts to fix it. It looks like it is the seals. I'll keep you posted!



The Gods have been kind, and all it was, was a loose set screw on the hydraulic lever thingy! Tightened it up and it's back to splitting logs like a champ! I'm sure the manual will come in very handy in the future, and that is a godsend to have!
I highly recommend getting the dead ants out of the carb, that really helped the engine run a LOT smoother! I'd hate to give this didier back to the rightful owner broken! Heck, maybe he'll let us keep it warm for him - we sure have a lot of big stupid trees to chop!
Peace Out!


----------



## DaveRust

*2 wheel tow dolly*

It always seems I need to move the splitter to a different place in the back yard and lifting the hitch and towing it around by hand is a back breaker.

I ordered a little 2 wheel tow dolly from Harbor Freight. $44. plus $6.99 freight. It works great to move the splitter around with. Has a handle like a lawn mower, pulls as easy as an empty wheel barrow.

If you are breaking your back and risking stumbling while walking backwards, this is for you. They are available from HF and most any farm supply store.
Dave in SW Missouri


----------



## Wife'nHubby

DaveRust said:


> It always seems I need to move the splitter to a different place in the back yard and lifting the hitch and towing it around by hand is a back breaker.
> 
> I ordered a little 2 wheel tow dolly from Harbor Freight. $44. plus $6.99 freight. It works great to move the splitter around with. Has a handle like a lawn mower, pulls as easy as an empty wheel barrow.
> 
> If you are breaking your back and risking stumbling while walking backwards, this is for you. They are available from HF and most any farm supply store.
> Dave in SW Missouri



+1 on that tow dolly with my Didier. I can even move our boat around easily using that dolly.

Shari


----------



## DaveRust

*Work day today*

Today was a beautiful day in SW Missouri. I started cutting up a huge dead tree blown down by a recent storm. I probably cut and split at least a half cord of wood today before I "fizzzled" out.

The old wood splitter works like a charm. I was very fortunate, I got the splitter a few weeks back for a $10. bill. The Previous owner said it had not been started for a couple years. I did do an overhaul on the carburetor, put in fresh oil and away it went.

I feel very fortunate in my purchase.
Dave in SW Missouri


----------



## Cigarman

DaveRust said:


> I was very fortunate, I got the splitter a few weeks back for a $10. bill.
> 
> I feel very fortunate in my purchase.
> Dave in SW Missouri



Fortunate isn't the word, That was a steal. Splitters of this caliber are worth 50 times that price, at least!
I paid $400 for one a year ago, it came with about a cord of split and un-split seasoned wood.
And I thought I got a deal....


----------



## DaveRust

*Working the splitter real hard*

I have noticed my splitter, after working it pretty hard, seems to stall out. The ram will connect with the stick of wood, but will not split it, nor will it lug down the engine. It seems to just sit there, then sometimes it will hit the stick of wood and work hard and lug down.

Have I got bad seals in the cylinder or is the pump getting weak? I almost suspect the two stage in the pump is not working right? I have "fiddled" with the screw adjustment on top of the control but it doesn't seem to change anything.

Any advice? I have worked it hard over the last couple three weeks, probably split 3 or 4 cords of wood and for an old splitter and an old man that is a lot of work.

DaveR


----------



## Nortryder

*trying to id splitter*

So I have a didier which I've owned for 10 or so years. I tried to get the model # off the tag by the motor/pump. I couldn't see it very well and when I wiped it off to get a better view, wonder of wonders, I wiped it right off! Bummer! It looked like PD but I couldn't really make it out and I don't see any PD"s on the model chart. It has hard rubber tires, pin hitch, and a single stage pump which ain't very fast, to say the least. Other than that it looks pretty much like all the pictures on this forum. A friend has a model MF and his has inflatable tires and it seems like it might be a bit bigger overall. I'd like to crank the cycling time of mine up a bit. Maybe with a 2 stage pump or what ever. Any ideas anyone? BTW great site!
Mike


----------



## triptester

If you have at least a 5.5hp. engine a 11gpm 2-stage pump will work.


----------



## Nortryder

I wonder is there any way to figure out what's on there now?


----------



## triptester

Nortryder said:


> I wonder is there any way to figure out what's on there now?



Go to the first page of this thread, in the second post there are some measurements that may help fiquring out the model and specs.


----------



## tsgrady

*New (to me) Didier MF26 - rebuilding*

Hi All,

I have just purchased a Didier MF26. I have the manual!!! the hydraulic ram seal needs to be replaced. It is a type "H" and the kit number is 200360 but I can find no info on the replacement seals online. Can anyone help me out?

Thanks in advance,

Tom


----------



## DaveRust

*Cylinder rebuild*

Can anyone help me out?

Thanks in advance,

Tom

Tom, I think you will need to take the cylinder to a hydraulic repair shop to have it rebuilt, or have them give you the proper o ring seals to do it yourself, if you are so inclined.

The Didier Co. is history, and the parts numbers no longer have any meaning. I notice here on this forum most say they have had the cylinder rebuilt for around $80.00, some for less than that.

I'm looking at the same thing before another year, perhaps a new pump too.
Dave in SW Missouri


----------



## Freakingstang

I just picked this low use gem for a whopping 275 bucks off of craiglist...


----------



## labrat444

Hi - wow....just registering was a chore since I only speak english Not that it matters but my father immigrated from the Netherlands when he was young but I never did pick up the language. Either way, I also just picked up a Didier 20 yesterday as was going thru it to find that the hydraulic pump shaft seal is leaking. I've read a lot of the thread an plan to take it to a shop since Didier is out of business but am interested in what documentation is avail for the unit. I did find info on engine but not on hydraulic pump. Seems like Wife'nHubby has a lot of info. Does anyone have documents/manuals on this unit? If so, please forward to [email protected]. Thx


----------



## Wife'nHubby

labrat444 said:


> .... Does anyone have documents/manuals on this unit? If so, please forward to [email protected]. Thx



Files sent.


----------



## stihly dan

Labrat sounds phishy.


----------



## labrat444

stihly dan said:


> Labrat sounds phishy.



I'm sorry. Did I do something wrong? Not "phishing" for anything accept info on my new splitter. Didn't mean to disrupt the thread.

By the way - thank you Shari for the information!!!! :msp_thumbup:


----------



## Mill_wannabe

*Another Didier rebuilt and running!*

I picked up an MF26 badged as a Montgomery Ward. I knew it needed attention. 

Engine - the carb on the old Briggs was damaged beyond repair. Replaced the tired engine with a Harbor Freight 212cc for $99.99. New engine is quiet, starts beautifully, and runs excellent. This is the first HF engine I've used, and I would do it again in a heartbeat. 
Discovered the love joy coupler was plenty hammered from years of work, so replaced it.

Cylinder - Found a local hydraulic shop that did a repack for $60. Had to search to find the little shop without the overhead of an inside sales team. The fancy shop wanted $150 for the same work. Replaced all the ATF in the machine with fresh ATF, as I had it on hand and it's said to work better in cold.

Reinstalled the cylinder today and fired it up and split some wood. First time this splitter has been run in years.  Back in operation for under $200 in repairs.

Next is to raise it up, as it's way too low for my comfort. After that, a log lift for the big rounds. 

Many thanks to Shari for the manuals and all who took the time to post about these old machines. It's all the splitter I need, without the high price tag.

One thing interesting about mine is a previous owner swapped the engine and hydraulic tank positions, making mine a mirror image of everyone elses. Seemed odd at first, but it puts the engine exhaust out the back, away from the operator. I'm assuming that's why it was done, and I left it like that.


----------



## DaveRust

*Another one saved*

Mill Wannabe...glad to hear of your good fortune and that you got the splitter up and running. I belong to a Troy-Bilt tiller forum and many guys are putting the HF engine on the TB Tiller, all with good things to say about the little engine.

My engine runs fine on my splitter, however, I need the cylinder rebuilt. Got to do that before another season. 
Dave in SW Missouri


----------



## Mill_wannabe

Thanks, Dave! I split with it for about 4 hours today, and it ran flawlessly. I am really impressed with the Didier and the HF engine.


----------



## DaveRust

*Height above ground*

The only problem I have with my splitter, other than the cylinder needing to be rebuilt, is the close proximity to the ground. I'm 6-4 and 70 years old, after running it for about an hour I almost need to crawl to the house. I hope to sit it on a small boat trailer I cut down to 4 x 8 ft length.

There is just not enough hours in the day to get all of this done.

I heat with a Earthstove by Lennox, which has by most standards a small firebox. So some of my wood was split with the old armstrong method, and it needs to be split again to make it easier to handle. Winter is predicted here for next week, so it may not all get done.
Dave in SW Missouri


----------



## Mill_wannabe

The boat trailer idea should help. I have mine up on car ramps for now, but it's still too low. I'm working on a permanent arrangement to make it higher.
Wish I was closer to you, I'd be happy to help get you ready for winter.

Since you are further splitting already split pieces, what about setting up a table next to the splitter to give you a place to stack up the pieces to split? That might reduce all the bending and fetching of small pieces.

I know current thinking says the hydraulic tank is way too small on the Didier, but in my experience after four hours of splitting in 45 degree temps I can still lay my bare hand on the tank. I like that there is not 10 more gallons of expense and potential spill with the factory configuration.


----------



## DaveRust

*Tank size...*

Mill...I never had any problem with the tank size, (that I know of) seems to work ok.

Weather is nice today, so I hope to get some things done, like the floor on the trailer. I think I can sit the work area just ahead of the left trailer wheel toward the front of the trailer and have plenty of room. I may need to take the wheels off the splitter and sit it directly on the floor of the trailer.

Also have a TroyBilt Horse III tiller in rebuild mode. Stripped it down and degreasing now, when it get warm enough paint it and put in some new grease seals.

Always something...

Dave in SW Missouri


----------



## DBNewlon

*Baby Didier (CB-19) having issues*

I inherited the baby didier, from the list it appear to be the 7 Ton CB-19. It was my Dad's, he used it for 20 years, then when he passed away 8 years ago my Mom needed the money and sold it to some friends of mine. Well, last summer my friends happened to mention that they had no further need of it, so to have something of my Dad's, I bought it from them. It may be the baby, but this baby can really split some wood. Well, my Son and I were spitting up some oak a few weeks ago and it started exhibiting some odd behavior. It will start up, run for about five minutes, then after those five minutes it chokes up and dies. This is turning out to be a consistent behavior, runs for about 5 minutes, about enough time to split one or two log then it died, and it won't start up for about a half hour, until it's good and cool. 

Can anyone help me...

I've done the obvious things, cleaned the spark plug, changed the spark plug for a new one. Filter is clean, oil is full (I don't know if this has a shut off on it for low oil, doubt it) This afternoon I got it running and split up a couple of logs and when, like clockwork, it died, I did something my Dad taught me, I pulled the spark plug connected it to the wire, grounded it to the crankcase and pulled on the cord....no spark.

Now I'm thinking points? Magneto? Condensor? I've got the know how to take off a flywheel and get to them, but I'm not sure what to try first, seems like I recall engines loosing spark when heated up, maybe the condensor is breaking down....

Am I going down the right road here, or running up a blind alley. Any guidance from you pro's would be very much appreciated...I have a few free days to work on it during the holidays. I've got about a cord of Oak left to split and it sure is slow doing it one or two logs at a time. But, more importantly, I spent a lot of time with my Dad before he died using this machine together, so when I use it I feel close to him, that is the real reason I must fix it.

Thanks

If I do this right maybe I can show you a picture of it. If you look closely, my Dad added a return mechanism that holds the control handle in return mode so you don't have the stand there and hold it. It automatically releases when it reaches home position. He had great engineering skills for someone who never had anything beyond high school.

View attachment 269077
View attachment 269078


----------



## DaveRust

Now I'm thinking points? Magneto? Condensor? I've got the know how to take off a flywheel and get to them, but I'm not sure what to try first, seems like I recall engines loosing spark when heated up, maybe the condensor is breaking down....

DB that would be my first thought. I think the points and condenser will be under the flywheel on this model. Take that off to get into them and get a replacement kit from your small engine parts folks. These are common repair kits. I just went thru that with a Cub Cadet with a 14 hp engine. The first coil I bought would last a little while and then the engine would miss like crazy. A new coil stopped all that. In the base of the tune up kit for the B&S engine I doubt that it would cost much more than $10 to $15 and it should run like a top again.

Let us know what develops.
Dave in SW Missouri


----------



## Gravedigger

The best thing you could do is replace the motor with a Harbor Freight 6.5 hp which can be found in sale for $99. Its been real reliable. Had to replace carb due to bad fuel issues for $14 shipped. It was much easier to put the new carb on than rebuild the one that came with it. Parts are very easy to get.


----------



## DBNewlon

I opened it up and found a bunch of water dripping out of it. While I've got it open I've ordered a rebuild kit that includes the condenser and point for $10. Replacing the whole engine is a bit more then I really want to put into it at this time, though it's amazing a new engine can be had for $99.
Here are the point's once I opened it up. There was this brown piece of something inside the compartment when I opened it, I now think it was a piece of gasket from a tube. Did these engines ever have a gasket to protected the points from getting wet? It would make more sense to have the wires come in from the bottom and have the top completely sealed. There isn't a wire that goes from the cover to the points is there?

View attachment 269247


----------



## bigblock73

When they were state of the art

Popular Science - Google Books


----------



## DBNewlon

So they didn't come around until 1976, amazing


----------



## swed1162

I agree with swapping out the motor for a HF motor. However if your changing points on motor you already have. You should swap out the points with a electronic ignigtion conversion , it isn't any more money and it is much more dependable. You can get it wherever you can get small engine parts , just take model number and ask for it. You will be happier with it.


----------



## DBNewlon

I had no idea something like that even existed...are they available of the internet? Would it install in the same place that the points do and run off the crankshaft came? That sound's like such a great idea...


----------



## swed1162

Yes it should be avaiable online. Just have the model number when ordering. I will bolt directly to the spot where the point pickup goes no alterations are required and you won't need condenser either. Works much better than points. Make sure you clean the flywheel pickups before you reinstall it.


----------



## DBNewlon

I see one in amazon for 35$ (is this a fair price?):

Briggs & Stratton 397358 Ignition Coil For 5 HP Horizontal and Vertical, 550 Series Engines

Are there different models of the 5 HP b&S engines? All I know is mine is a 5 HP. Where would I find identifying information, this is pretty old and not much is readable on it...see my picture above.

I looked very closely at the engine do not see any identifying marks, I think it has been painted (no, brown is the original color) over given the strange color of this thing. I can see the serial number and the model number, and I do have the manual which says the Briggs is a 4 cycle model no. 130202 - Type 0801. The manual does confirm that it is a 5HP. Where would the engine Identifying information be?


----------



## DBNewlon

Here is the identifying information that is obvious: 

View attachment 269409


It appears to be Model # CB-19 Code: 3F serial number:120Z27 or 120227 or 120727 I can't tell, it looks like both the 2 and the 7 were printed over top of one another which makes it look like a Z...

I don't know if this says anything about how old it is.


----------



## swed1162

U might get one cheaper . My uncle owns a small engine shop so I get my stuff at his price . I forget what I paid for mine . It works better than points.


----------



## DBNewlon

I suppose you can quite worrying about them getting wet. I guess you wouldn't ever have to worry about something getting in between the points, or the condenser going bad. How many years are these electronic ignitions lasting on these units. Has anybody ever done a study? Have you ever had a set an EI die on you? Otherwise it sounds like a great idea. You don't ever need to pull the flywheel anymore, since there is no need to access anything. Is there anything dangerous to an EI? I'm a bit curious about how you hook them up. I see a couple of wires that come off it, I mean other then the spark plug wire-what do those hook into?


----------



## swed1162

One is the kill wire. I think the other one is a ground and one is the plug wire. There's nothing to it to install it just goes where the pick- up for the coil is now . Just make sure you clean the area on the flywheel where the magnets are. When you set the gap use a matchbook it's makes the gap just right.


----------



## DBNewlon

I think I found one on amazon. The description says:

BRAND NEW IGNITION COIL FITS Briggs & Stratton 100200, 100900, and 130200-132900 models Fits Briggs & Stratton OEM P/N: 697037, 397358, 395491, and 298316 Fits John Deere: PT10998 Fits Stens P/N: 460-030 Fits Oregon P/N: 33-340 

Looking in my manual it says the model number of the B&S engine is 130202 - Type 0801, and looking at the part numbers in the manual it points out that the part number of the OEM coil is BS 298316. I entered 2983116 into Amazons search field and it gives me a series of coils, and this one is only 27$ with shipping, it is my best guess. It doesn't say it is solid state or electronic ignition in the title, but farther down it says 
"Fits 5 HP engines with electronic ignitions " and later on someone complained is a comment that 
"ign coil would have worked had there been instructions that say the part you are about to put on will replace a point system if you do not put the wires on for the pionts this will eliminate the pionts and make it a solid state ingnition " Given these two things I'm pretty sure it's what I'm looking for. Now I need to ask myself, this is the cost of 1/4 of a new engine...is it worth it given the state of the rest of the engine and it's age.


----------



## DBNewlon

Gravedigger said:


> The best thing you could do is replace the motor with a Harbor Freight 6.5 hp which can be found in sale for $99. Its been real reliable. Had to replace carb due to bad fuel issues for $14 shipped. It was much easier to put the new carb on than rebuild the one that came with it. Parts are very easy to get.



How hard was this to connect up to a wood-splitter? Is the shaft going to be at the right height? 6.5HP is better then 5...what did you hook yours up to....?


----------



## Cigarman

DBNewlon said:


> Now I need to ask myself, this is the cost of 1/4 of a new engine...is it worth it given the state of the rest of the engine and it's age.



Personally I tend to not try to put band-aids on an engine that old. When I bought my Didier someone had already replaced the engine with a newer B&S 6.75 engine. I would just replace the motor if I was in your situation. Who's to say something else won't go or already be wrong with it?


----------



## swed1162

I agree with Cigarman, I would change the motor,I replaced mine 2 yrs ago with a 6.5 up Tecumseh that I already had. My Briggs was a pain in the butt because the previous owner took part of it and it had no governer which make it a pain when the splitter got a load on it. I would have went with HF motor but I already had the motor I used. I wouldn't invests 35.00 dollars in a motor that out when a new one costs 100.00


----------



## Gravedigger

DBNewlon said:


> How hard was this to connect up to a wood-splitter? Is the shaft going to be at the right height? 6.5HP is better then 5...what did you hook yours up to....?



my brother did it and pretty much matched up but having to drill New holes to bolt down the motor. He is not the most mechanical included person. I loaned the splitter to him for several years and it came back with a new motor.


----------



## Mill_wannabe

DBNewlon said:


> How hard was this to connect up to a wood-splitter? Is the shaft going to be at the right height? 6.5HP is better then 5...what did you hook yours up to....?



In my case, I swapped a tired 5HP Briggs for a new 212cc from Harbor Freight. It was a direct bolt on. I have always fixed these old motors, but this one was a mess and for $99 I couldn't resist putting a modern OHC engine on there. Well worth it for these Didier splitters, they have the mechanicals to run for many more years.


----------



## DBNewlon

*Done deal*

You talked me into it. The 212CC was on sale at HF for $119 (normally) $179 and I printed off a 20% discount coupon which they honored in Grand Rapids yesterday and that made it 95.99 and then I used some thank you points and got another $10 off it with my CITI mastercard, looks like a fairly nice engine for $85. It's setting in my shop now, I'm just waiting for it to quit snowing out there and I'll get my son to help me push it into my shop and start changing the engine. I spoke with my Mom about it yesterday and she says Dad bought this Didier in 1972 and it was well used when he got it! That makes that B&S engine more then 40 years old, pretty amazin? I'll probably hold onto it as a spare if it can ever get it working...

Is there anything you do special for a new engine like this before you fire it up? I mean other then add oil and gas....


----------



## Mill_wannabe

Awesome price!

Nothing special on startup. Make sure there's oil in it, feed it some gas, and off it'll go. There is a break-in procedure in the manual, it basically says light loads for the first 3 hours. Our splitters are not a heavy load for these engines.

I just bought another one of those engines for a snowblower that threw a rod. It's re-engined and ready for the snow that is falling right now.


----------



## DBNewlon

I connected it today, that was easy. Loosen the set screw on the spline, remove four engine mount bolts, put spline on new engine, hardest part was getting it off the 40 year old engine. Put new engine in place, adjust spline distance from engine and bolt down engine. Add oil and gas and off it goes on second pull. Wow that took less than an hour. The engine hardly strains on the largest logs. I bet I wasn't getting a full five hp out of that forty year old engine, now I'm getting a full 7 out of this new one. Can't wait now to spend three hours splitting up oak on Monday!! I'll be curious to see how it does on the tough ones....I'll post some pictures of the converted didier with the new predator engine.


----------



## Gravedigger

DBNewlon said:


> I connected it today, that was easy. Loosen the set screw on the spline, remove four engine mount bolts, put spline on new engine, hardest part was getting it off the 40 year old engine. Put new engine in place, adjust spline distance from engine and bolt down engine. Add oil and gas and off it goes on second pull. Wow that took less than an hour. The engine hardly strains on the largest logs. I bet I wasn't getting a full five hp out of that forty year old engine, now I'm getting a full 7 out of this new one. Can't wait now to spend three hours splitting up oak on Monday!! I'll be curious to see how it does on the tough ones....I'll post some pictures of the converted didier with the new predator engine.



Glad everything went easy.


----------



## DBNewlon

Thanks for the good advice guys, I really appreciate it. It went through a cord of oak with little effort yesterday. I drained the oil, put new synthetic oil in it and conditioned the gas with ethanol gas treatment, covered it with a tarp and stored it under my elevated deck until next I need it. On Saturday I found a free source of wood I hadn't even thought about...a friend of mine that owns a land-scape company says he thinks he can keep me in wood with the trees he cleans up from customers yards. He said he has been looking for someone who would make good use of it. Looks like I'll have lots of activity for the Didier-Predator this summer!


----------



## Eric Engler

*Help finding part number CR4Z4306*

Hello All,

First off I wish to say I had a great time reading how all of you are keeping your splitters running. 

I have a friend with a splitter and I have come to the conclusion that it is a didier and the broken part is CR4Z4306 from http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...arts/Model-200879/0094/1500280/00016021/00001 

any idea where I can find one of these?

thank you all.


----------



## triptester

Here is a link to a bracket that may fit.

Results for Cross Valve Parts

Another link better picture ,better price

http://kscdirect.com/item/CRO+4Z4306/CROSS+MANUFACTURING+INC_4Z4306+CROSS+HANDLE+BRACKET%0A

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cross-Hydraulic-Control-Valve-Handle-Bracket-4Z4306-OEM-New-/120984410381


----------



## DaveRust

*Pump stalls*

Sometimes after running the machine for a while I notice the ram will hit a stick of wood, the engine sounds does not change and the ram does not push the wood thru the wedge. I can pull the ram back a little and hit it again a time or two and it will eventually break right thru it.

I see in the manual it says adjust the sequence valve. I'm not sure where or what this is, if its on the control valve or on the pump.
I am suspecting my old pump needs replaced.

I just replaced the engine with an almost new B&S 5hp engine. The engine does not lug down, but the ram just doesn't always push the wood thru the wedge. I am not suspecting the engine, since it is producing plenty of power.

So what do I adjust, where is it, or do I need to replace the pump. I see in Northern Tool they are $139 for a 11gpm pump.
Thanks for the help guys.
Dave R in SW Missouri


----------



## Mill_wannabe

Any chance your hydraulic fluid is low? Maybe the pump is sucking air.


----------



## DaveRust

*Stalling pump*

Any chance your hydraulic fluid is low? Maybe the pump is sucking air.

The fluid is right where it belongs. I first thought it might be the cylinder with blowby inside it, there is no leaking around the rod in the cylinder. Kinda' don't know which one it is.
Dave


----------



## triptester

I don't know which brand of control valve you have but there is a plug or cap on the valve that covers the set screw for the relief setting. A quarter turn in on the screw should help. If you don't have a gauge between the pump and valve it may be difficult to see what adjustment helps.

Info for a couple different valves,
http://www.hydraulic-supply.com/pdf/543.pdf
http://www.energymfg.com/pdf/16445x.pdf
http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/products/valves/LSR3060InstS.pdf


----------



## barmason

*Didier log spitter*

Hi i have an original 1972 didier panther great machine. What im looking for is the couplings that go on the engine shaft and the pump shaft, the teeth are broke on mine and the rubber insert is gone. Any help would be great

brian I THINK I POSTED TO SOMEONE ELSE SIGHT I CANT FIND WHERE I CAN START MY OWN POST HAVENT POSTED VERY OFTEN


----------



## DaveRust

*couplings*

Barmason, those couplings are readily available at Tractor Supply Co. or Northern Tool and Supply. I replaced an engine on mine. It had a different size shaft than the old one. Just take your couplings to TSCo. or measure them and look them up online. They are about $7. for each piece, plus your center rubber disk coupling. The rubber is just there for a spacer and keeps the bare metal from beating itself to death.

Let us know how you come out.
Dave in SW Missouri


----------



## DaveRust

*Couplings*

`It seems like those couplings are called "Lovejoy couplings" in Northern tool, however, they may just be the brand name. Don't remember for sure.
Dave


----------



## nathon918

DaveRust said:


> `It seems like those couplings are called "Lovejoy couplings" in Northern tool, however, they may just be the brand name. Don't remember for sure.
> Dave



lovejoy is a brand name, other companys make them, but those type of couplings are most commonly known as lovejoy


----------



## barmason

daverust said:


> barmason, those couplings are readily available at tractor supply co. Or northern tool and supply. I replaced an engine on mine. It had a different size shaft than the old one. Just take your couplings to tsco. Or measure them and look them up online. They are about $7. For each piece, plus your center rubber disk coupling. The rubber is just there for a spacer and keeps the bare metal from beating itself to death.
> 
> Let us know how you come out.
> Dave in sw missouri



found them online at northern tool will check tsc tomorrow
thanks for the quick response

JUST CALLED TSC AND THEY HAVE EVERYTHING I NEED ALOT CHEAPER THAN NORTHERN TOOL THANKS AGAIN

brian


----------



## Mill_wannabe

Brian,

Not sure where in NH you are, but TSC in Hooksett had them. That's where I got mine.


----------



## DaveRust

*coupling*

Brian, glad you found them OK. I have already started burning on my next winters wood supply here in SW Missouri. Soon as it dries up some I got to get back at replenishing the next winter supply. I don't work in the leaves and woods when the snakes are out.
Dave


----------



## Wife'nHubby

FYI I see the poster found the parts they needed but just thought I'd post that Grainger carries the lovejoy. We have a local Gainger but they are also online. We took our old lovejoy into Grainger to have them match the part. They brought out three variants - all the same size - all made of different material - so - watch what you buy.

Shari


----------



## barmason

wife'nhubby said:


> fyi i see the poster found the parts they needed but just thought i'd post that grainger carries the lovejoy. We have a local gainger but they are also online. We took our old lovejoy into grainger to have them match the part. They brought out three variants - all the same size - all made of different material - so - watch what you buy.
> 
> Shari



tractor supply had all the right sizes and the spider gear all made by the same manufacture 
thanks everyone for all the great input made this task very easy when i get it all back together ill post some pics i put a larger hydrolic tank purchased from tsc because my tank was damaged, then a new honda 200gx 5.5 what a buety that engine is, had my piston repacked at a local tractor sales and service for 100.00 as someone on this site had suggested there super machines ive split hundreds of cords of wood since the early 70s if anyone was thinking of buying one of these gems its a good investment

thanks again brian


----------



## barmason

Mill_wannabe said:


> Brian,
> 
> Not sure where in NH you are, but TSC in Hooksett had them. That's where I got mine.



thanks i found them at the ringe store picking them up in the am


----------



## nathon918

barmason said:


> thanks i found them at the ringe store picking them up in the am



thats not far from me, i wish TSC sold more american made products though
id get a couple of the spiders for spares, espically if theres any misalignment of the motor and pump shafts


----------



## barmason

nathon918 said:


> thats not far from me, i wish TSC sold more american made products though
> id get a couple of the spiders for spares, espically if theres any misalignment of the motor and pump shafts



hi got all the fixins today and i think your right about the alignment thats why i ruined the original coupling probably american made thats why they lasted over40 years

thanks again


----------



## TERRCO

Hello, I'm new and like everyone else I googled a log splitter I acquired and ended up here. So I originally was building a log splitter out of scrap metal laying around the yard and realized I didn't have a pump, valve or a tank. So I figured if I could find a broken splitter or used one I could get the parts I needed. I put the word out that I was looking for one and my wife's uncle salvaged a Didier from a junk yard nearby. He paid $25 in scrap weight for it. I got it home and looked it over and realized it was still in good condition but why did they scrap it? Well the engine had no compression and about 30 minutes later after breaking loose a stuck valve I was able to start and run the engine with the help of some starting fluid. I replaced the weathered pressure line. So with a helper spraying starting fluid to keep it running I cycled the ram in and out. It worked perfect. I grabbed a piece of mesquite and split it with ease. After seeing that I didn't want to part it out anymore. The Briggs it had was not what I wanted in the long run. I had a few Hondas to choose from and found the right size off a pressure washer that quit on me. I figured I would clean it up real nice and give it some color so after a good cleaning I disassembled it and painted it. It runs great and the only problem is I need to replace the return line as it is in poor condition and has a small leak. I have about $60 in it. Not till after I was putting it back together did I realize that the pressure line was too short to turn the valve straight up. Not a big deal. So far the only complaint is my back aches from bending over the machine after I use it. I have plans to raise it up without disturbing the original design. Here it isView attachment 288941
View attachment 288942
View attachment 288943
View attachment 288944
View attachment 288945


----------



## Mill_wannabe

Another one saved from scrap and put back into service! Nice job.

And welcome to AS! Pull up a stool and look around a bit, this is a great place to hang out.


----------



## swed1162

nice job!!!!!uttahere2:


----------



## Wife'nHubby

My, my that red looks sharp! I'd go for a paint job like that on my 'lil Didier but it sits outside (covered nicely, thank you) and if it was painted so pretty for sure some low-down would snitch it from me. 

Right now mine is black & grey with 'old grease/oil' which, I tell myself, acts as a natural preservative against rust. It's finish is kind of a natural redneck camouflage which makes it blend in with its surroundings. 

Shari


----------



## TERRCO

Thanks guys. There sure is a lot of info on this site. I live way down south in Texas just south of San Antonio. I mostly split mesquite for BBQn. I couldn't imagine having to cut and split to keep warm all winter. Hats off to you guys that do. Our winter consist of maybe a week of freezing temperatures if we are lucky. Most of the time it will freeze at night only and there is very few of those days. Many Xmas days I remember it being 85-90 degrees. Kinda hard to get into the spirit. I currently own 3 saws. An 025pro, an MS460 and an MS390. The 390 dropped the decompression valve and self destructed. It sits waiting on me to decide to spend the money on a long block. One of these days I will finish my log splitter I started on too. The Didier works so well I abandoned the project but I still wanna finish that one day. This is as far as I got.View attachment 289054
View attachment 289055

The cylinder is the only one I had. It's just laying there. Anyway I'm sure I'll spend many days reading here. Thanks for the comments. I assure you the Didier is not that clean anymore.


----------



## Eubbie

*Manual*

I found this thread while looking for instructions on how to fix my cylinder. Was hoping someone could send me the coveted manual? I sent a pm to Shari, but I'm not sure how often she's on here

Thanks!

Sean

[email protected]


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Sean,

I sent the files to you about an hour ago.......... check your spam box. 

Shari


----------



## Eubbie

*Woohoo!*

Got them Shari, thanks! My cylinder is leaking BAD! I'm going to take it to someone today to get it repaired, but the manual was something I was looking for anyway. I read somewhere that this model doesn't call for hydraulic fluid but 10w30? I'm getting ready to check it out now, but would like to ask what everyone else is using for fluid. My cylinder is the one with the nut looking cap on the end of it if it matters. 

Thanks again Shari!

Sean


----------



## Mill_wannabe

Hi Sean,

I think the manual specifies 10w30 but many of them (like mine) have ATF in them. I would stick with whatever is already in there so you don't have issues with mixing the two.

The cylinders with the nut on the end can be easier to get apart for seal replacement. You'll be much happier after the cylinder is rebuilt.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Using AW32 hydraulic fluid here - that's what was in it when we bought it as a used machine.


----------



## labrat444

Well, I 1st posted on page 22 but I'm back.... Finally got my log splitter hydraulic leak fixed. $5 in new seals and it works great. I'm in AZ so don't have a winter need but just had 41 mature orange trees cut down and have plenty of wood to split as it dries out. Here's a pic.View attachment 289605


----------



## Mill_wannabe

Glad to hear you have it fixed, labrat444! Sounds like you have plenty of work for it to do.


----------



## R DeLawter

*Purchased this Didier new.*

Have been following this thread but could not figure out the picture posting until now.

I purchased this splitter new I think in 1984 and it is original except I replaced the fuel tank after getting it out of the barn it sit in 15 years with out use. I also extended the hitch at some point.
The original motor runs fine and is running in these pictures.


----------



## Mill_wannabe

Another survivor! Interesting that the beam is offset to the side on that one.


----------



## iantorr

*DIDIER LOG SPLITTER MODEL No HB 26A CODE 71 SERIAL No 247003*

Hi
I have a leaking piston cylinder and I want to replace the seals 
I havent tried to take off the end cap yet but have read the posting and problems hopefully i will find it easier???
However can anyone help with the Manuel and the purchase of replacement seals ???
Thanks in anticipation 
ian torr [email protected]


----------



## Mill_wannabe

Email with manuals sent to Ian.


----------



## Risan

I'm new here and need some help. I've been searching the web looking for info on my Didier wood spliter. I came across this site which seems to have a lot of Info, Hints and Tips. The name plate on my splitter (which is very hard to read due to the light embossing ) has model PB-26M, Code 5-2 SN 257046 and the ram plate is Panther. I picked this splitter up a few years ago for $150. It has run fine for me but now is starting to leak oil at the rear of the ram when the ram is all the way forward. If I stop the travel short of its max forward movement it doesn't leak. Is this repairable or do I need a new ram? Also I need a manual for this beast. I know its old and has seen a lot of use. I've run about 12 cord through it just since got it and except for the leak is still working just fine.


----------



## northerner20

*Didier Manual L2000*



DodgeTrucker91 said:


> Thanks for the link. I didn't even think to do a search by model #. As an update, I just received an e-mail from Troy Bilt with a pdf. for the owner's manual and the parts list. I'll also post this on the "L2000" thread. It'll take me a couple of days to get it into a form I can use, but I should be able to pass it along to anyone who needs it. :msp_thumbup:



Can I have a copy of all you have?


----------



## arrow13

*DIDIER 20 manual request*

Hello all,
Nice to find another great thread to read and use.
I just acquired a Didier 20 splitter with a 3.5 HP B & S engine. The engine seems a bit small for this.
Everything looks to be original with very little use. It has the small wheels on it like I've seen in some of the other photos. Still have to clean it up. It was stored in a dry shed. I'm thinking it would be best to replace the old hydraulic fluid and engine oil.
I would appreciated if someone could lead me to a manual for this nice little splitter.

Arrow13


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Arrow,

Click on my screen name on the left. Click on 'private message' and send me your email address and I'll send you a couple of manuals. 

PS My Didier has a 5.5 hp on it.

Shari


----------



## lariviere63

*DIDIER 20 manual request.*

Could you also e-mail a copy of the manual to me? Many Thanks.
Bernie


----------



## Wife'nHubby

lariviere63 said:


> Could you also e-mail a copy of the manual to me? Many Thanks.
> Bernie



Bernie,

Click on my screen name on the left. Click on 'private message' and send me your email address and I'll send you a couple of manuals. 

Shari


----------



## jkim13

*need help to find part*

Hi, All 
!
I am new in this site and glad to find.
I have didier MF26 needs brass rail guide that is wear out badly.
If anybody knows where it can be replaced and let me know will be appreciated. 
Thank you again.
John

View attachment 302159


----------



## Mike Van

John, you can't buy those, I tried years back. Some machine shop could make some, might be pricey though. If I can remember a camera tomorrow, I'll get a pic and show you how I fixed mine -


----------



## Mike Van

Here's a couple of pics - The first one was my first fix, 10 years ago or so - I milled the brass smooth again, then made up for what I took off with angle iron. The bolts had to be replaced with something bigger too. View attachment 302383
A few weeks ago, the bolts pulled out of one side, so I welded onto the ram, ran the bolts the other way on that side View attachment 302384
No more brass there, but it'll probably still outlast me. I bought this splitter new, 1978 I think. Most years it did 10 full cords, the last 7 or 8 it's closer to 30.


----------



## jkim13

hi, Mike!
Thank you for the idea and pictures.
Right now, I have switched over the guides to opposite and it barely works. Soon or later, it need to be replaced like you did.

The splitter that I bought used one about 5 years ago from local area for home fire wood. it was pretty good shape. All parts are original include engine(briggs 5hp). it still run like champion. Only ram seal has been replaced by local hydraulic shop(paid $100) year ago and added one more wedge on the top of existing wedge View attachment 302390
this year for splitting big trunks.

Because I have cut off several live oak trees for clearing the road. Some of 27" diameter big trunk View attachment 302391
that was cause the brass guide wear out.
View attachment 302392

Thank you 
John.


----------



## PowerMax

Just came across this thread, as I was splitting/stacking wood last night and thinking about my awesome Didier splitter. I bought this splitter at an estate sale in 1997 for $175. I knew the original owner (he used to let me rabbit hunt on his farm) and it was not used much and always kept in his garage. It sold for $795 in 1977 (the original owners manual and sales receipt came with it). Quality, well-built piece of American made machinery. I've been splitting about 8 cords/yr. with it for 16 years now. Changed the oil a few times in the Briggs, that's about it.

View attachment 309868


----------



## alans

*new to me didier splitter*

I bought this splitter yesterday(hopefully my photos upload) and surprisingly it started right up.Unfortunately it doesn't have any power and the piston moves slowly.There's a leak in the pump and I believe that's the problem but I can't locate a direct replacement.Could someone advise me the best one to use? It has a 6.5 hp honda motor.Could the problem be something else?I hate to just start changing parts,that gets expensive quick! Also if someone could send me the manuals I'd really appreciate it.My email is [email protected] .Thanks in advance


----------



## Mill_wannabe

I've sent the manuals to your email address.

Pump failures seem uncommon on these splitters. A leak in the ram is more likely. It might be worth a fluid change just to see if that helps before you get to the expensive parts.


----------



## alans

I thought the same thing,no had problems with their pump but the oil is definitely coming from it.I will take you advise and change oil,perhaps debris is blocking something.


----------



## triptester

The pump on your machine is either a MTE or a Delta which look similar. The pump can be replaced with any brand 2-stage pump of the same gpm, the mounting is standard with only a difference in port location.


----------



## alans

It seems that 11,13 and 16gpm are possible replacements.Is there a benefit to using one over another with a 6.5 hp motor?thanks


----------



## triptester

The 11 or 13 will work but the 16 will require a bigger engine. The 13 will be slightly faster than the 11 but you will hardly notice.
The majority of the steel body pumps are made in the US. The aluminum body pumps are imports.


----------



## alans

I took the pump off and going to check with a local shop about rebuilding it.If not I'll probably by an 11gpm speeco .Thanks for all the input and the manuals!


----------



## Mike Van

New pump is about 120.00 at Northern Tool, don't waste the time trying to get that one rebuilt -


----------



## triptester

These 2-stage pumps are not considered rebuildable. Do not pay over $150 which is high. 2-stage pumps of the same gpm are interchangable on 99% of all log splitters from Timberwolf to MTD.


----------



## FLRA_Dave

triptester said:


> The 11 or 13 will work but the 16 will require a bigger engine. The 13 will be slightly faster than the 11 but you will hardly notice.
> The majority of the steel body pumps are made in the US. The aluminum body pumps are imports.



Just thought I would make a mention that the 16gpm (@3800 rpm) on my splitter is run by a 5.5 hp B&S... And it runs it easily. The crossover to high pressure is 500 psi and my system pressure is about 1800 psi. Other brands of pumps will most likely be harder to turn since they have higher ci / 3600 rpm for the 16gpm rating.


----------



## JRess

*Didier spliiters*

Hi all - I have an old Didier MF splitter. The collar that holds the ram lever just broke. It is the piece that has two allen screws holding it on and is stamped with the part number 4Z4306. I think it is cast aluminum and I may be able to get welded but would prefer a new part. Had this machine since the 70's and except for having to replace the engine and a hose this is the first solid part to go. Thanks!


----------



## triptester

It is a Cross hydraulic valve handle braket. Google the Cross number they are readily available.

Brand New Cross Valve Handle Bracket 4Z4306


----------



## JRess

Excellent Triptester! On order. Great site.


----------



## JRess

Going through the thread I see where several people have manuals for the Didier MF series splitters. I found one on line but the graphics are just horrible. Has anyone got one they can provide? 

Thanks, John


----------



## Hampton1825

Guys, have a question. I heard a snap today while splitting wood and a quick look seems to indicate the prongs on the universal joint (if that's the right name for it) connecting the engine to the pump (on the pump side) have sheared off. Any advice on what to do with this problem? Do I need to replace the pump or can a new joint be fitted and where can I find one of either?

Thanks all!


----------



## Mill_wannabe

That connection is called a lovejoy or a spider joint. It's a common item, available at Tractor Supply or the like. You likely will need to replace both sides (pump and engine) and the rubber spider in the middle. It's likely that the shaft size on the pump and the engine are different, so it's best to take the original off before purchasing so you can measure. Tractor Supply calls them Nova Jaws.

I ended up cutting mine into a bunch of pieces to get it off the pump shaft. Nothing else was getting that thing off. 

Hope that helps!


----------



## Wife'nHubby

TSC in my area didn't have them - I got mine at Grainger. I don't recall the part numbers as we have a local dealer so I took my old parts in for new fit ups.


----------



## DaveRust

Hampton1825 they are telling you correct. If TSCompany doesn't have them, try Northern Tool. They are not very expensive. They come in all shaft sizes, so take your broken one with you or measure it to see what size shaft you need. You will be back in business in no time and not much cost.


----------



## Hampton1825

You guys are the best. Thank you!!


----------



## Hampton1825

Do you know what I think happened? A few weeks back the Nova Jaw that was on my Predator engine was loose...and the rubber bushing (spider) must have fallen out and I didn't realize it was there. I only ran it twice before it shattered the cogs on the pump side of things. I bet it was bushing. Daggum it.


----------



## Hampton1825

All fixed! TSC had a set in the right sizes. Included the 3/4" side that goes on the engine and the 7/16th that goes on the pump side and the rubber bushing. All for $8. Back online and splitting! Thanks again guys!


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Hampton1825 said:


> All fixed! TSC had a set in the right sizes. Included the 3/4" side that goes on the engine and the 7/16th that goes on the pump side and the rubber bushing. All for $8. Back online and splitting! Thanks again guys!



Good for another 20+ years. 

Shari


----------



## Gravedigger

Upgraded my Didler splitter with 4" cylinder w/2" piston,11gpm pump, new valve w/ auto return, 10 gallon hydraulic oil tank & filter, 6.5 hp harbor freight motor that I converted to run on propane. The best thing about converting to propane is you don't finish with a headache from gas fumes


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Gravedigger said:


> Upgraded my Didler splitter with 4" cylinder w/2" piston,11gpm pump, new valve w/ auto return, 10 gallon hydraulic oil tank & filter, 6.5 hp harbor freight motor that I converted to run on propane. The best thing about converting to propane is you don't finish with a headache from gas fumes




Reference the "Ship of Theseus": http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ship_of_Theseus ...........

but in more familiar terms of today: If you inherited your grandfather's ax on which your father had replaced the handle and in your lifetime you replaced the head, is it still your grandfathers ax?

Powered by propane??? Got a video of it splitting to share?

Shari


----------



## Gravedigger

Wife'nHubby said:


> Reference the "Ship of Theseus": http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ship_of_Theseus ...........
> 
> but in more familiar terms of today: If you inherited your grandfather's ax on which your father had replaced the handle and in your lifetime you replaced the head, is it still your grandfathers ax?
> 
> Powered by propane??? Got a video of it splitting to share?
> 
> Shari



Needed a Super Didier! Now i changed out the control valve yesterday to an Prince Auto-cycle. Man did the auto-cycle increase output. Might have to do video


----------



## wolfkicker

What are you guys using for hydralic fluid? The one I got is old! with a vertical shaft motor with the pump underneath, It came to me using Dextron 2????


----------



## hamerlaner

I use just 20 wt non detergent motor oil it works fine on my third year and never failed


----------



## wolfkicker

My model A20M


----------



## Mike Van

The book on these said 10w 30, way back when.


----------



## Gravedigger

wolfkicker said:


> What are you guys using for hydraulic fluid? The one I got is old! with a vertical shaft motor with the pump underneath, It came to me using Dextron 2????


Mine had ATF (maybe Dexton) when I got it. ATF will withstand more heat than hydraulic fluid. . I'm running TSC hydraulic fluid since I changed to a 10 gallon tank.


----------



## GVS

Mill_wannabe said:


> That connection is called a lovejoy or a spider joint. It's a common item, available at Tractor Supply or the like. You likely will need to replace both sides (pump and engine) and the rubber spider in the middle. It's likely that the shaft size on the pump and the engine are different, so it's best to take the original off before purchasing so you can measure. Tractor Supply calls them Nova Jaws.
> 
> I ended up cutting mine into a bunch of pieces to get it off the pump shaft. Nothing else was getting that thing off.
> 
> Hope that helps!




TSC,Northern Tool or any well stocked farm supply store will have them.


----------



## 1967 Tempest

SO I read most of the posts in this thread. I called most of the places here in NJ and repairing the cylinder is a total loss. More than a new cylinder would cost. 

What cylinder are you guys replacing the MF26 cylinder with?

Thanks Dave


----------



## Mike Van

I used this one from Surplus Center - # 9-6890 about 5 years ago, it works fine. I used the angle grinder & cut the tang off the base end so it just goes on the splitter the way the old one did. You have to modify the head end too, to make the push plate take a 1" pin.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Gravedigger said:


> Needed a Super Didier! Now i changed out the control valve yesterday to an Prince Auto-cycle. Man did the auto-cycle increase output. Might have to do video



We love videos...........


----------



## 1967 Tempest

Mike Van said:


> I used this one from Surplus Center - # 9-6890 about 5 years ago, it works fine. I used the angle grinder & cut the tang off the base end so it just goes on the splitter the way the old one did. You have to modify the head end too, to make the push plate take a 1" pin.




I see, yeah I might actually try one of the cheaper clevis ended ones. That cylinder is more than I paid for the whole splitter!!!


----------



## hamerlaner

1967 Tempest said:


> I see, yeah I might actually try one of the cheaper clevis ended ones. That cylinder is more than I paid for the whole splitter!!!


what is wrong with your cylinder


----------



## 1967 Tempest

hamerlaner said:


> what is wrong with your cylinder




I just bought this splitter. The fluid was crap, so I drained it and flushed the system with a good RO oil. Then the engine was dead and I put my standby Intek 206 on it. The ram moves, but has no power. The guy I bought it from said that it has been sitting for awhile. So I think water got in and contaminated the seals in the cylinder. So it will not even split a twig. 


So, its either the pump, the cylinder or the control unit. Control unit is a Prince and looks to be in good nick. The pump looks like it has been removed and remounted. It is a barnes type. Any information will be helpful.

Thanks
Dave


----------



## Mike Van

I would check the pump before I'd do the ram - Can you post any pics?


----------



## hamerlaner

1967 Tempest said:


> I just bought this splitter. The fluid was crap, so I drained it and flushed the system with a good RO oil. Then the engine was dead and I put my standby Intek 206 on it. The ram moves, but has no power. The guy I bought it from said that it has been sitting for awhile. So I think water got in and contaminated the seals in the cylinder. So it will not even split a twig.
> 
> 
> So, its either the pump, the cylinder or the control unit. Control unit is a Prince and looks to be in good nick. The pump looks like it has been removed and remounted. It is a barnes type. Any information will be helpful.
> 
> Thanks
> Dave


if the ram were bad it wood leak or bypass where it wouldn't move at all my guess is the bypass valve in the pump or the pump itself I rebulilt my ram the kit was 26.00 the pump you can buy on e-bay for around a 100.00 I bought my ram kit from northern hyd.hope this helps you out.


----------



## 1967 Tempest

Mike Van said:


> I would check the pump before I'd do the ram - Can you post any pics?



I will post a pic and a video this weekend. Let me see if I have one on my phone....

Bringing it home.





Got it home, bad engine, new Intek engine..






The pump....









hamerlaner said:


> if the ram were bad it wood leak or bypass where it wouldn't move at all my guess is the bypass valve in the pump or the pump itself I rebulilt my ram the kit was 26.00 the pump you can buy on e-bay for around a 100.00 I bought my ram kit from northern hyd.hope this helps you out.



Can I rebuild pump or is it a waste? Can you post me or email me the part number and site from which you got the rebuild kit for the ram? It is the 3.5"bore 24" stroke style .

This pump looks close..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/11-GPM-2-st...S_Outdoor_Power_Equipment&hash=item233772a856


----------



## Mike Van

The pumps are not rebuild-able, a new 11 gpm pump is about 120.00 or so. The shims etc. inside them are to .0001 or there abouts. You really need a pressure gauge to tell if the pump is bad. One thing you can make sure of though is the Lovejoy coupler hasn't sheared a key off or otherwise broken. This would allow the pump to spin until it had a real load, then it would just slip. I had to replace the pump on my Didier about 4 years ago, it had gotten so weak, it would just stall when the oil got hot.


----------



## triptester

The pumps are considered non-rebuildable. The pump you listed will work. One way of testing the cylinder seals is to extend the ram, then place a jack between the wedge and push plate, use a mechanical jack most hydraulic jacks don't work in the horizontal position. With the control valve in the center position apply force to retract the ram. The ram should hold it's position if the seals are good. Also check the coupling between the pump and engine to see if it is slipping.


----------



## 1967 Tempest

If I get some time in the day tomorrow, I will check ram and pump. Ram is easy, as I have a bottle Jack that I believe works in horizontal. Pump seems easy to check shear pin. 

ANY idea if tonnage on this? I'm think 12-25?


----------



## triptester

Tonnage would be 14 tons at max. rated pressure at 3000 psi.


----------



## 1967 Tempest

triptester said:


> With the control valve in the center position apply force to retract the ram. The ram should hold it's position if the seals are good. .




SO I am assuming that the ram is in good nick. I used a bottle jack to push the ram backwards. It moved an inch and then was rock hard. I pulled the control lever forward and it bled off the pressure. I did this again and used the reverse direction and again it bled off the pressure. I am now leaning towards pump hard. Either the lovejoy is messed up or its the pump. So, if the lovejoy is good, then I will order the pump.

Thanks guys!!


----------



## 1967 Tempest

Thanks for the help guys!!! SO I removed the Lovejoy from the pump. I know am 99% sure that the pump is bad. The rotation is very, very jerky. It sticks in spots and then gets stuck and will not move. You then have to rotate it the other direction and then back to get a full rotation out of it. So Yes, it moves fluid, but not at pressure and the pump never goes to the high pressure stage either.

I appreciate the help. I will post a vid once I get the pump in.


P.S.. WHat GPM pump SHOULD I get? I am looking at an 11GPM right now.
Dave


----------



## Gravedigger

[QUOTE=" I am looking at an 11GPM right now.
Dave[/QUOTE]

That's what I put on mine


----------



## triptester

Pump size is determined by available hp.. A 5.5 hp. engine will handle a 11 gpm 2-stage pump. A 6.5 hp. engine will handle a 13 gpm 2-stage pump. 8 hp. is required for a 16 gpm 2-stage pump.


----------



## 1967 Tempest

triptester said:


> Pump size is determined by available hp.. A 5.5 hp. engine will handle a 11 gpm 2-stage pump. A 6.5 hp. engine will handle a 13 gpm 2-stage pump. 8 hp. is required for a 16 gpm 2-stage pump.




Groovy. The Intek 206CC I have is rated at 5.5 HP, so 11 is perfect. Thanks for the response!!


----------



## Wife'nHubby

As a side note: Looks like a previous owner added to the ram (my ram is flat w/o the square-ish tubing added). The result will be that your ram will probably touch or nearly touch your wedge - effectively by-passing a safety measure built into the splitter. Ram hitting wedge is not good if your hand or fingers are in the way.........


----------



## Wife'nHubby

BTW That upright rod (in the foreground of the gas can) can be removed - it was originally a stabilizer bar on the original engine.


----------



## 1967 Tempest

OK, got the new pump on. Adjusted the idle on the engine, flushed 5 gallons of hydraulic oil through system till oil was clear. Fired it up and same thing. no pressure. The old pump was bad no doubt. I could see teeth rusted in side of it. 

Once I ran it for awhile, I noticed a lot of foaming. The seals kinda tested ok for the ram, so is the control unit suspect? If I bring it back, the ram starts to move forward a tad.

Thanks'
Dave


----------



## hamerlaner

1967 Tempest said:


> OK, got the new pump on. Adjusted the idle on the engine, flushed 5 gallons of hydraulic oil through system till oil was clear. Fired it up and same thing. no pressure. The old pump was bad no doubt. I could see teeth rusted in side of it.
> 
> Once I ran it for awhile, I noticed a lot of foaming. The seals kinda tested ok for the ram, so is the control unit suspect? If I bring it back, the ram starts to move forward a tad.
> 
> Thanks'
> Dave


if your oil is foaming you are sucking air someplace check your connections and hoses


----------



## 1967 Tempest

hamerlaner said:


> if your oil is foaming you are sucking air someplace check your connections and hoses



So I checked every hose and tightened them up. No loose hoses. The return line does not look like its the greatest. Could that introduce air? Also the fluid did have a red tint to it, so I am assuming ATF, but the rust in the pump could have caused a tint as well. Here is a picture of the oil I flushed through. Could this not be thick enough? I see no AW rating anywhere on this bucket.

Thanks
Dave


----------



## hamerlaner

oil is fine could also be leaky O-rings on your spool valve they may be buy passing I bought a new valve for mine on e-bay auction for 30.00 the good news is when your done you will have a really good splitter


----------



## 1967 Tempest

hamerlaner said:


> oil is fine could also be leaky O-rings on your spool valve they may be buy passing I bought a new valve for mine on e-bay auction for 30.00 the good news is when your done you will have a really good splitter




Can you send me a link to that? WOuld that be causing air in system ?


something like this...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HYDRAULIC-L...ic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item3f33cee822


----------



## hamerlaner

very well could be just go to e-bay type in hydraulic valves


----------



## 1967 Tempest

Also I need to verify the correct pump orientation. Can some one post a pic of this?

Thanks


----------



## hamerlaner

Wife and hubby on this site have a complete manual with all the specs on the first page


----------



## triptester

The 2-stage pumps operate in all positions. The two places air can get into the system are low fluid level in reservior and hose between reservior and pump. The rest of the hydraulic system is under pressure which can leak fluid but not suck air.


----------



## Gravedigger

triptester said:


> The 2-stage pumps operate in all positions. The two places air can get into the system are low fluid level in reservior and hose between reservior and pump. The rest of the hydraulic system is under pressure which can leak fluid but not suck air.




A larger oil tank would be a good upgrade along with a filter if you're investing in a new pump. The one gallon tank is honestly too small. I feel 5 gallon tank would be good, although I went with a ten gallon which is a little over kill


----------



## blades

Return line above fluid level or very near top of return tank will cause same thing.


----------



## Mike Van

I agree with Blades, but ran mine for 20+ years with the stock Didier tank and never had a problem with foaming - The owners book for these did say 10W30 oil, not atf, not hyd. oil.


----------



## Topbuilder

The thinner R & O (rust and oxidation) could be alowing the pump to cavitate. I would switch oils and see what happens.


----------



## 1967 Tempest

I just got the new intake or suction hose. WAY stouter that what was on there. The new pump is a 1" intake and the stock Didier resivoir is I think 5/8 or 3/4, so I might be looking at a new tank. They aint cheap though. 

Thoughts?


----------



## hamerlaner

1967 Tempest said:


> I just got the new intake or suction hose. WAY stouter that what was on there. The new pump is a 1" intake and the stock Didier resivoir is I think 5/8 or 3/4, so I might be looking at a new tank. They aint cheap though.
> 
> Thoughts?


you can build your own tank for little or nothing I made mine out of a portable air tank


----------



## Homelite410

1967 Tempest said:


> I just got the new intake or suction hose. WAY stouter that what was on there. The new pump is a 1" intake and the stock Didier resivoir is I think 5/8 or 3/4, so I might be looking at a new tank. They aint cheap though.
> 
> Thoughts?


 surplus center has affordable tanks.


----------



## 1967 Tempest

ok, So, the control unit is replaced, the pump is new and I have a new 3 gallon tank. I found that the pump was sucking the intake hose closed. I am going to install the tank today. Any objections to welding tube stock to the plate, then affixing the tank to that? That way the pump has a straight shot for intake of fluid.

P.S.
I have a new intake hose and return hose. Both from SUrplus Center..


----------



## 1967 Tempest

So I got about 15 cords split with this and the 3" $50 replacement cylinder I used finally crapped the bed.!! It was an epic failure! Entire front of cylinder burst out! I can not believe how hard it is in NJ to find a shop that rebuilds cylinders!!

I am looking at a true replacement cylinder. I did not see these before and I looked, believe me. Might be that the weather is getting cooler and more wood splitters are being used. But I am going to buy this and still try to get the original repaired. I have a friend who might be able to get it repaired..

More to come..


http://www.ebay.com/itm/281134806054?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


----------



## triptester

Be careful when increasing the bore size ,the added tonnage may put excess strain on the beam.


----------



## 1967 Tempest

triptester said:


> Be careful when increasing the bore size ,the added tonnage may put excess strain on the beam.



True. The original was a 4".


----------



## Wife'nHubby

It is interesting when you torque the beam.............. and you can do that with all original equipment.


----------



## 1967 Tempest

I did do it with the smaller 3" 12.5 ton cylinder that failed. Ill report back once I fix this...


----------



## 1967 Tempest

1967 Tempest said:


> So I got about 15 cords split with this and the 3" $50 replacement cylinder I used finally crapped the bed.!! It was an epic failure! Entire front of cylinder burst out! I can not believe how hard it is in NJ to find a shop that rebuilds cylinders!!
> 
> I am looking at a true replacement cylinder. I did not see these before and I looked, believe me. Might be that the weather is getting cooler and more wood splitters are being used. But I am going to buy this and still try to get the original repaired. I have a friend who might be able to get it repaired..
> 
> More to come..
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/281134806054?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT




So maybe I am not sure but I thought you just measured the outer diameter of the ram and that's what the ram was.. I.e a 4" ram measured 4" across. Anyway, I ordered the above cylinder and it was 4.5" across. I cut off the eyelets and installed the cylinder. I had to modify the clamps to accommodate the extra .5". The cycle time is now a lot slower than the 3" ram that I was using, but it is way more powerful. I think that the 3" was 12 ton. This 4.5" cylinder should put out 22 tons.. It is ultra powerful. It splits sideways!!!



SIdeways!!!


----------



## 1967 Tempest

In the end, the juice was not worth the squeeze on this round as it was close to not usable. Too long for my stove and just eh.. It was cloose to 40". I should have gotten a shot with a tape measure.. This was the base of a red Oak tree so it is wavy and full of knots.


----------



## Ozzman

Wife'nHubby said:


> Here's a spec sheet on Didier's - hope you can read it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shari


Good info on this site. I am a new member and have a Didier splitter that we have had in the family since early 80's. Can't find the manual for it. I see that u have sent manuals to some members on here. Can u hook me up also? Thanks,


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Ozzman said:


> Good info on this site. I am a new member and have a Didier splitter that we have had in the family since early 80's. Can't find the manual for it. I see that u have sent manuals to some members on here. Can u hook me up also? Thanks,



Ozzman,

Click on my name (on the left, below the picture of my stove) and then click on "Start A Conversation" - send me your email and I will send you the files I have.

Shari


----------



## Jon1270

Wife'nHubby said:


> Attached is a pic of ours in process of being put back together. I was originally a bit embarrassed that good ol' "Did" is so greasy so I was going to clean it off but thought better of it as it sits outside all the time with just a tarp on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Did" has new hoses now, routed a bit different than shown in the photo. He hasn't let me down yet!
> 
> By the way, vintage is in the 1970's somewhere.
> 
> Shari



I was just checking CL and saw a pic that looked familiar...

* Log splitter - $450 (New washington) *





Sears/ didier log splitter. Has a 2 stage pump with a Briggs and Stratton 5 hp engine. Splits up 19 in logs. Splitter sits low to the ground so you do not have to lift very high. Runs well. Call or text ... asking 450 or best offer. Thanks


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Jon1270 said:


> I was just checking CL and saw a pic that looked familiar...
> 
> * Log splitter - $450 (New washington) *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sears/ didier log splitter. Has a 2 stage pump with a Briggs and Stratton 5 hp engine. Splits up 19 in logs. Splitter sits low to the ground so you do not have to lift very high. Runs well. Call or text ... asking 450 or best offer. Thanks



Yes that is my photo - the ad is NOT mine. Care to share a link to the ad.............. some one needs to be taken out to the woodshed for a teachin'.

Shari


----------



## Jon1270

Wife'nHubby said:


> Yes that is my photo - the ad is NOT mine. Care to share a link to the ad.............. some one needs to be taken out to the woodshed for a teachin'.
> 
> Shari



https://mansfield.craigslist.org/grd/4749237682.html


FWIW, I suspect the only reason they used it is that your pic is the first hit in a Google image search for "didier splitter." I'd ascribe it to laziness or lack of a camera rather than malice.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Well, Jon1270, maybe I should subscribe to the train of thought of laziness on the part of the seller as you indicated. Apparently they don't have a digital camera/phone to take their own picture. They do not believe in "Truth in Advertising" because this is NOT their splitter. They state 5 hp B&S and 19 inches splits. Wrong. The splitter pictured (mine) has a slightly larger than 5 hp B&S and I can split longer than their stated 19".

So.......... I sent the seller a <kindly> reminder of Craigslist rules which are photos included must be of the <exact> item for sale. They have updated their photos: 









Didier had about 4 different models. Their 'For Sale" model is a smaller version of what I own.


----------



## Jon1270

Oh, well. A beautiful Didier popped up on CL about a month ago and closer to home, but I wasn't in the market and let it go by. I saw the ad above because I've been kicking myself, and poking around to see how many others might be available. I live a few hours from Mansfield.


----------



## hunter72

I had one that was sold under the John Deer name it must have been the MF26 model.I took it along with 2 saws 1-Shiindy and 1 J.D.=Echo saw on trade for a Italian racing bicycle in 1980. My brother and I used it to split enough wood to heat our homes for almost 30 years. My dad would help us some times, those were some good times.In the last few years we would cut grooves in some taller rounds and lift the splitter up and set the wheels and toung in these grooves and we no longer had to kneel to operate.In all that time I only up graded the motor to a Honda GC160. Sold it and we now have a 37T Northern Tool and a Brave 22T.

Stay safe and healthy


----------



## jkim13

Hello, Members!
I like to tell you having a great time reading how all of you are keeping your splitters running.
Today I like to discuss about reseal on control valve. my valve is leaking from back side 
Anybody can help how to disassemble and what kind o ring should be used.
Your help will be much appreciated.
John


----------



## Woodhead

Wife'nHubby said:


> Here's a spec sheet on Didier's - hope you can read it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shari


----------



## Woodhead

Sheri:
I have an old Didier Model 26 splitter that runs great. The brass guides on the sides of the push slide are worn and need to be replaced before they break. Any chance they are available somewhere? I don't have a parts manual, so don't know the part number, which should be the same for both. Any assistance is greatly appreciated.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Woodhead said:


> Sheri:
> I have an old Didier Model 26 splitter that runs great. The brass guides on the sides of the push slide are worn and need to be replaced before they break. Any chance they are available somewhere? I don't have a parts manual, so don't know the part number, which should be the same for both. Any assistance is greatly appreciated.



Most parts for splitters are interchangeable - Didier's are no longer made so you should be looking for a generic replacement. Send me your email address so I can forward you the manuals I have. Click on my avatar and send your addy to me privately.............


----------



## blades

Glad to see you survived the winter Sheri.


----------



## swinters

I'm amazed at how much good info is here on this site! I'm not sure what happened to my old login but when I tried to log in it wouldn't work so just set up a new one. I just picked up a nice little Didier splitter and thought I'd look here for some info and sure enough, here are pages of good stuff. Mine is tagged as a Sears model 498.286671 and has what appears to be the original B&S engine that' stamped Model 130202, Type 0801-01, Code 8007310. I was really happy to see that a manual might be available so just sent a note to Sheri. I have about a pickup load of wood piled next to the chicken coop that needs splitting so plan to give it a workout tomorrow. Thanks to all who have posted the great info here!


----------



## Woodhead

The best replacement motor is the Honda 5 HP that comes on pressure washers because it's already set for 2600 RPM. If you go out to CL and search for a pressure washer, there should be several with bad pumps. I purchased 2 of them for $100 each. They run great, start the first pull, and are pre-set for running at a speed that's perfect for the Didier splitters.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

swinters said:


> I'm amazed at how much good info is here on this site! I'm not sure what happened to my old login but when I tried to log in it wouldn't work so just set up a new one. I just picked up a nice little Didier splitter and thought I'd look here for some info and sure enough, here are pages of good stuff. Mine is tagged as a Sears model 498.286671 and has what appears to be the original B&S engine that' stamped Model 130202, Type 0801-01, Code 8007310. I was really happy to see that a manual might be available so just sent a note to Sheri. I have about a pickup load of wood piled next to the chicken coop that needs splitting so plan to give it a workout tomorrow. Thanks to all who have posted the great info here!



I just sent you the files. 

My Didier is suffering a fluid issue right now - hopefully it will have a new 2.8 gallon hydraulic tank & maybe newly configured hoses on it soon. Hey, considering my splitter is circa mid 1970's that makes it around 40 yrs. old so upgrades are to be expected. 

In case anyone is interested, I ordered the smallest tank I could find (Northern Tools) - it is 9x9x9" - about twice the size of the original.


----------



## swinters

Wife'nHubby said:


> I just sent you the files.
> 
> My Didier is suffering a fluid issue right now - hopefully it will have a new 2.8 gallon hydraulic tank & maybe newly configured hoses on it soon. Hey, considering my splitter is circa mid 1970's that makes it around 40 yrs. old so upgrades are to be expected.
> 
> In case anyone is interested, I ordered the smallest tank I could find (Northern Tools) - it is 9x9x9" - about twice the size of the original.



Got the files - Thanks Shari!! That's a gold mine of info.

I spent the weekend doing honey-do's and the splitter sat there calling me. I cut down a couple of decent size Douglas Firs next to a friend's house a bit over a year ago and they're the most knotted rounds of wood that I've ever seen, probably because they were so close to the house. I've pecked away at them with a splitting maul and a sledge and splitting wedges and hardly made a dent in the wood. This morning my grandson and I fired up the Didier and went through 1/3 of the pile in about an hour, part of that time positioning things, moving a trailer next to the splitter and so on. Mine has the single stage pump on it so is a bit slow but it went through the knots and kept on splitting. Several just had to be split at the knot and I was planning to have to pull a stuck piece of wood off of the wedge but the engine would just give an extra grunt and then push right on through. Awesome splitter! I have just under 20 acres and part of it is in trees so have my eye on a couple more that I don't think I'll get in too much trouble with my wife for dropping and splitting... I'll try to get a few pictures of it to post. It's a Sears but I think it's pretty much the same as an LMF19.


----------



## swinters

Woodhead said:


> The best replacement motor is the Honda 5 HP that comes on pressure washers because it's already set for 2600 RPM. If you go out to CL and search for a pressure washer, there should be several with bad pumps. I purchased 2 of them for $100 each. They run great, start the first pull, and are pre-set for running at a speed that's perfect for the Didier splitters.


That's good info to know. I worked in a shop repairing pressure washers when I got out of the Navy in 1975 and have been buying them and fixing them off and on ever since. About this time of the year every year I come across a couple that were left in the shed with the pump full of water and froze and cracked the pump. The B&S on my splitter starts on the first pull, runs clean and still has last year's spark plug in it and it's clean as a whistle, though it wouldn't hurt a bit to have a spare on hand. The previous owner has always used ethanol-free gas in it (he's a retired logger and had some awesome chainsaws - which weren't for sale - and says he learned the hard way just how bad ethanol is on carburetors, fuel lines and so on) and says he changed the oil twice a year. Hopefully it'll hold up awhile but it'd be nice to have a backup. they never fail at a convenient time.


----------



## swinters

Here's the splitter, mounted on the high speed, low drag wheeled table the previous owners built. Man does it work nice! I'll probably weld up something different at some point, but on the other hand, there's a lot to be said about "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I'm throwing in some extra pictures since sometimes they're helpful for people putting together a garage sale basket case or something. These are loaded from my Photobucket account, which is mostly Chambers Gas Range stuff. Feel free to dig around if interested. http://s151.photobucket.com/user/swinters01/library/?sort=3&page=1







Left Rear:





Right Rear:





Hydraulic Pump (Single Stage, Model 205 2266)





Left Front Close:





Sears Model Tag (oil is from leak at control valve elbow):





Control Valve (very slight leak at top rear elbow):


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Interesting table! It looks a little "Fred Flintstone" but hey, it works and that is the object. 

As I age I am beginning to respect my back a LOT more. If any changes were to be thought about on your table, I'd figure out a way to stand a bit closer to the beam (maybe a slight cut out on the table top and rearrange the supports?) and put a vertical stop right in front of your belly (horizontal 2x6 would do it). Two reason for these slight improvements: When the split falls on the opposite side of the beam means you don't have to reach as far to grab it back (reaching and moving that lifted weight simply kills my back) and having that "belly stop" protection piece stops rounds or splits from falling on your toes and also stops rounds from rolling off the beam.





Here's how list member Triptest modded mine. This pic has been posted at least a couple of times.  On the opposite side you can see the 'belly stop' he added. That stop is about 3-4" away from the beam. I actually stand right next to that stop when I'm splitting - therefore my 'reach' isn't too far at all to grab a round after the first split is done.

Shari


----------



## swinters

Wife'nHubby said:


> Interesting table! It looks a little "Fred Flintstone" but hey, it works and that is the object.
> 
> As I age I am beginning to respect my back a LOT more. If any changes were to be thought about on your table, I'd figure out a way to stand a bit closer to the operator (maybe a slight cut out on the table top and rearrange the supports?) and put a vertical stop right in front of your belly (horizontal 2x6 would do it). Two reason for these slight improvements: When the split falls on the oposite side of the beam means you don't have to reach as far to grab it back (reaching and moving that lifted weight simply kills my back) and having that "belly stop" protection piece stops rounds or splits from falling on your toes and alsos tops rounds from rolling off the beam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how list member Triptest modded mine. This pic has been posted at least a couple of times.  On the opposite side you can see the 'belly stop' he added. That stop is about 3-4" away from the beam. I actually stand right next to that stop when I'm splitting - therefore my 'reach' isn't too far at all to grab a round after the first split is done.
> 
> Shari



I was looking at that setup in your earlier post and it looks like the ticket. The guy I bought the splitter from said that his wife said she was dreading splitting wood because the bending over using the splitter on the ground was a back killer so he went out to his scrap lumber pile and built this as a temporary trial. Over 10 years ago. It works good with two people (the handle on the front wheels spins around so it's underneath and out of the way) but you still have to lift the round up to the table. That log lift on yours would make all the difference. I need to be able to tow mine from the barn where I'll store it to in front of the woodshed where I'll do the splitting so will have to design that into mine as well. Is the table on the front removable?


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Yes, table is removable. The lift is powered by my 12v winch. Lift is removable also.


----------



## swinters

Wife'nHubby said:


> Yes, table is removable. The lift is powered by my 12v winch. Lift is removable also.


Shari - The people I got the splitter from found their original Sears manual for it! I scanned it and emailed a copy to you. Feel free to share it with anyone who needs it. 

If anyone can use a copy, send me a PM with your email address and I'll email a copy.


----------



## #angrymom

Hello. Could someone please help me. I was told this is a Didier MFD 26. I am looking for the instruction manual. The internet is useless...haha.


----------



## triptester

The splitter appears to be a Didier but it has seen several changes. The engine has been replaced and moved to the opposite side so the exhaust would blow away from the operator. The reservoir is original but raised up.


----------



## Carpenter70

Wife'nHubby said:


> Hey, don't compliment me - all the compliments go to members on this list who helped me put ours back together last year (a woman who never even changed oil on a car!)
> 
> There's a whole sub-group of Didier owners here on the list. A lot of owners have remodeled their Did's basically to raise the height. The tires are small so it sits low to the ground but I am short so Did's height doesn't bother me too much.
> 
> Attached is a pic of ours in process of being put back together. I was originally a bit embarrassed that good ol' "Did" is so greasy so I was going to clean it off but thought better of it as it sits outside all the time with just a tarp on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Did" has new hoses now, routed a bit different than shown in the photo. He hasn't let me down yet!
> 
> By the way, vintage is in the 1970's somewhere.
> 
> Shari




Shari I was wondering if you could send me the manual you sent other people on this forum. Just got a didier splitter given to me and putting it back together. My email is [email protected]. 
Thanks Jake


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Carpenter70 said:


> Shari I was wondering if you could send me the manual you sent other people on this forum. Just got a didier splitter given to me and putting it back together. My email is [email protected].
> Thanks Jake



Files sent.

Have fun!


----------



## Neil White

I need a manuel for a Didier 26 log splitter. Does anybody have one they can email to me?
Neil
[email protected]


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Neil White said:


> I need a manuel for a Didier 26 log splitter. Does anybody have one they can email to me?
> Neil
> [email protected]



Sent


----------



## Efederlein

Hello all.....I recently bought a splitter off by buddy who moved south and he owned it for close to 30 yrs. After finding this thread I think I have a Dieder. Can anyone confirm and if so what model it may be. There obviously have been some mods. But is all original except for 2 yr. Old Honda gc160 motor. I paid 200$ for splitter and a excellent cond husky 455 a few months ago. Thanks for any info.


----------



## swinters

Efederlein said:


> Hello all.....I recently bought a splitter off by buddy who moved south and he owned it for close to 30 yrs. After finding this thread I think I have a Dieder. Can anyone confirm and if so what model it may be. There obviously have been some mods. But is all original except for 2 yr. Old Honda gc160 motor. I paid 200$ for splitter and a excellent cond husky 455 a few months ago. Thanks for any info.



I'm far from the expert here and hopefully someone will jump in and correct me if I'm wrong but from the info I gathered when I was researching mine it looks like it started life as an MF or MFD 26. Telltales are the side mounted control valve, the reservoir size, and piston stroke (looks like a 26" cylinder - can't tell for sure from the pics though). Whether it was an MF or MFD would largely have depended on what hitch and tires it came with. If the ball style that it has now is the same style as what it came with originally it would have been an MFD 26. Pin style hitch would have been an MF 26.


----------



## Efederlein

The cylinder measures 22" and it will split 19" pieces....guess I should have included those specs. Thanks


----------



## Wife'nHubby

You appear to be missing a #8 bolt on the ram slide plate in the last picture (there should be 3 in a row not 2).

I noticed someone scabbed on additional side plates on the wedge - hmm, mine was never modded like that and I don't have any problem. I might think increasing the thickness of the wedge would cause a need for more 'power' to split the round = more stress on the beam (and it's a narrower beam to begin with so watch out for torquing of the beam). I'm happy with my original wedge.


----------



## Efederlein

Ok.....would you recommend they be removed ? I know they have been on for 5-6 years...so far no probs. He usually split about 15 or so cords a year and yes I do know about the missing bolt....I just keep forgetting to pull one out when I go to home depo and match it up. Thanks


----------



## triptester

I see that splitter is equipped with a single stage pump which would make it a LMF19 model with the info provided.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Has that beam been pieced or layered? I'm seeing a seam about 4" or so in front of the wedge............


----------



## Efederlein

No the beam is solid....there is a plate welded on top that the ram slides , slide on. If thats what you were asking about. If not no the beam is solid. 
And yes after looking at the chart on page 1 here I figured it was the lmf 19...was my guess anyway. Thanks guys


----------



## Baylinerchuck




----------



## Baylinerchuck

So after reading all these posts I am fairly certain that my Montgomery ward splitter is built by didier. I stumbled on to this thread from a Google search trying to find parts. A local search and Internet sear turned up nothing. This thread was by far the most enlightening. Like many of the other posts this cylinder is leaking around the rod. It took a bit to figure out how to get it disassembled, but was pretty much as described in this thread. 

Like so many other have asked.....can I get a manual that may show this particular model.....or something close?


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Baylinerchuck said:


> So after reading all these posts I am fairly certain that my Montgomery ward splitter is built by didier. I stumbled on to this thread from a Google search trying to find parts. A local search and Internet sear turned up nothing. This thread was by far the most enlightening. Like many of the other posts this cylinder is leaking around the rod. It took a bit to figure out how to get it disassembled, but was pretty much as described in this thread.
> 
> Like so many other have asked.....can I get a manual that may show this particular model.....or something close?



File sent


----------



## malarz

Wife'nHubby said:


> Files sent.
> 
> Have fun!



Just joined and have been reading a few of the Didier posts. Mine needs a valve control (?), the toggle/handle mechanism that changes directions of the piston. Any advice on where to find this part? The valve appears to have 3/4" input/output on the sides and 1/2" input/output on the front and rear.

Also, if you could forward a parts diagram and/or repair manual I would appreciate that. Thanks!

ken [email protected]


----------



## Wife'nHubby

malarz said:


> Just joined and have been reading a few of the Didier posts. Mine needs a valve control (?), the toggle/handle mechanism that changes directions of the piston. Any advice on where to find this part? The valve appears to have 3/4" input/output on the sides and 1/2" input/output on the front and rear.
> 
> Also, if you could forward a parts diagram and/or repair manual I would appreciate that. Thanks!
> 
> ken [email protected]



Ken,

File(s) being sent to you. As far as parts: Either a farm implement dealer or hydraulic repair shop. I'm sure other list members will have other suggestions. 

Shari


----------



## david allard

Hi All

I have just joined and need some help please.
I have an older Didier (age unknown) but looks very similar to everyone else s.

the question I have is how do I increase the cycle time of the ram. My Didier currently has 13-second total (out to all the way back in.)

We replaced the original 5-h.p. briggs and stratton with a 6.5 h.p. harbor freight engine. (great engine and easy replacement).
And we put a 4-way wedge so the logs split into 4-pieces but I would like to outward speed before contact with the log and the return speed to be must faster.

Does anyone has any suggestions ?

Best Regards
David


----------



## triptester

The only way to shorten cycle time would be to increase the pump size with a matching engine. The present pump is probably a 11 gpm 2-stage,your new engine would handle a 13 gpm 2-stage but the change would be barely noticeable. The next step would be a 16 gpm pump with a 8 hp. engine.


----------



## david allard

is there a way to calculate what the cycle time would be for a 13gpm and a 16gpm with a 8hp engine ?


----------



## triptester

Type in the specs

http://www.baumhydraulics.com/calculators/cyl_calc.htm


----------



## Wife'nHubby

I am not splitter guru but I would think you should also consider the smaller size (narrower & shorter in height) of your I-beam. If you max out speed/engine/pump etc you could end up permanently torquing the beam - and end up building yourself a new splitter using your new parts and the existing Didier axle and tires. But............. as I said............. I'm no splitter guru. I only split a max of around 3-4 cord of firewood per year and in my off time I can bake a mean batch of brownies.


----------



## Woodsman76

I have a Didier splitter that I bought several years ago at an auction for $375. It has been modified as you can see in the pictures. I read all 27 pages of post in the thread. Cleaned the hydro fluid/oil reservoir and refilled. For the life of me I can not find any type of filter or screen for the hydraulics? I also purchased a rebuild kit for the carb. I have yet to do that. My issue is when I put any load to the hydros the engine dies? the engine seems to have plenty of compression. My first 2 thoughts were hydraulic fluid and filter needed changed and rebuild the carb. As mentioned no clue where to locate the hydro filter but the fluid is now new. Before I tore into the carb I figured I would ask here. Thanks in advance. I will also message "wife-n-hubby" for the owners manual.
Not sure what model on the chart posted I have but it says Model-MFD. Code-5G on the tag.


----------



## triptester

Didiers did not have a filter or screen. The stalling of the engine may be due to lack of power or binding of the cylinder.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Interesting block of wood attached to the ram........... defeats a safety measure....... Mine has had a couple of 1" steel plates added to the butt end of the cylinder - same effect - moves the ram closer to the wedge.

Second picture down: Has there been something attached to the top of the beam and it ends just before the wedge? If yes, is the slide rail on the ram hanging up due to extra thickness of the beam and bogging down the engine?

Gotta go, brownies are done. 

PS Manuals have been sent.


----------



## Woodsman76

Ok so no hydro filter good to know.

Yes the block of wood is a great way to subvert the safety. It works great and can always be removed.

As for anything being added to the beam, Nope, The factory guide plate is the only thing on there and it has never caused issue.
I really do not think the ram is binding up. The brass looking slides under are in decent shape. Everything is tight and slides smooth but I will double check soon as I head back out to work on it.

Thx 4 the manuals.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

I am looking at this area, where the red arrow is pointing. Am I seeing a difference between the beams?
(your photo on left, my photo on right)


----------



## Woodsman76

You are correct there is a difference. If you look at I believe page 7 figure 9 of the manual you sent me some of the splitter must have come from the factory with that guide built in. The rail guides on mine are made to slide on that guide.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Believe it or not I never noticed that in the manual.  Obviously mine does not have that but yours does.


----------



## Woodsman76

So the student teaches the master. lol. Think I am going to address rebuilding the carb and cleaning the fuel system today. Seems like as soon as you pull the hydro handle the engine bogs or dies about half the time. The other half is when a log is on it and it starts splitting. Almost acts like it is not getting enough gas when under load? Process of elimination will decide I hope. I have used this splitter for 5-6 years no issue. Split about 2 cord this past week no issue. Then all of the sudden BAM starts dying.


----------



## Woodsman76

Carb rebuilt, gas tank cleaned and everything put back together. Runs great until I try to use the hydraulics. As soon as I pull the lever the engine dies. I double checked the ram guides and rail. No bind there. Also lubed them up good. Any thoughts? When I changed the hydro fluid I did not have the manual. I emptied the system, cleaned it out and refilled fully. Then eased the cylinder in and out to purge the air. The manual says to only fill part way, run the ram so far, add more fluid, move ram and so on until full. Could this have anything to do with it? Or maybe something in the hydraulics is plugged up? The new fluid went all the way threw no issue when I refilled. I am at a loss??


----------



## triptester

Are you running the engine at full throttle when it dies? In normal operation the engine will bog down when pressures near their peak but then the relief in the control valve opens reducing pressure before the engine kills.
For a healthy engine to kill a combination of things would have to happen, no cylinder movement and a stuck closed relief.


----------



## Woodsman76

So I loosened up the hydraulic fluid cap and the ram now works perfect. I tighten it back down and it kills then engine. Prior to changing the fluid the cap could not be tightened all the way down due to the plate that holds the tank down being off center. When I cleaned the system I straightened the plate and tightened the cap. Odd but for some reason it makes a difference?? Maybe it does not vent air out of the tiny hole in the cap fast enough? No idea but it is now working as good as ever....


----------



## Bruce Putnam

Does anybody know a source to replace the guide plates? Mine are extremely worn and I just broke the threaded end off the ram part of the cylinder. Now I either have to find a new cylinder or get to a cylinder repair shop 1 1/2 hours away each way. Plus it is the 48" model splitter.
Thanks Bruce


----------



## Woodsman76

From everything I have read Bruce you cannot buy the parts for Didier anymore. That being said several people have had machine shops manufacture new guides for their splitters. The ram can either be taken to a hydraulic shop or you can buy a lot of the parts to fix it yourself.

So my stalling engine issue is back. The day I loosened the cap and it ran great I thought it was fixed. Started it yesterday and back to dying under load. I took the relief valve apart and everything appears to be in good working order. I am going to take the head off the engine and inspect the valves and head. I have a feeling the engine is just flat wore out. It does have compression but I can turn the shaft by hand. Thinking the compression is weak?? Only other thought is maybe a valve in the hydraulics is partially plugged or something in there is cracked? The ram runs fine other than the engine stalling out when I pull the lever.


----------



## JCurcio

Hello, I am new to the site and actually stumbled onto this post through a google search for Didier Log Splitters. I just rescued one from a farm field and am trying to get it going again. The splitter sat for a few years and is in rough shape. I swapped the motor with a Harbor Freight one as many others have done. Once I got it running, I realized that the cylinder seals were completely shot and it started leaking fluid like a sieve. I pulled the cylinder apart and the cup seal around the rod was so brittle that it just crumbled. This cylinder seems easy to rebuild but I have no idea where to find a seal kit for this thing. Has anyone had any luck finding seals for these cylinders or should I bite the bullet and buy a new cylinder? Does anyone have any experience with rebuilding, or getting parts for them? I would appreciate any help or advice you guys may have. I would also appreciate if any of you would be willing to share the owners manual file with me at [email protected] 

Thanks, Jordan


----------



## Wife'nHubby

JCurcio said:


> Hello, I am new to the site and actually stumbled onto this post through a google search for Didier Log Splitters. I just rescued one from a farm field and am trying to get it going again. The splitter sat for a few years and is in rough shape. I swapped the motor with a Harbor Freight one as many others have done. Once I got it running, I realized that the cylinder seals were completely shot and it started leaking fluid like a sieve. I pulled the cylinder apart and the cup seal around the rod was so brittle that it just crumbled. This cylinder seems easy to rebuild but I have no idea where to find a seal kit for this thing. Has anyone had any luck finding seals for these cylinders or should I bite the bullet and buy a new cylinder? Does anyone have any experience with rebuilding, or getting parts for them? I would appreciate any help or advice you guys may have. I would also appreciate if any of you would be willing to share the owners manual file with me at [email protected]
> 
> Jorda



Jordan,

Manual is being sent to your email.

As previously stated, try a hydraulic repair shop or a farm implement dealer or even Granger. I think there are a couple more parts stores suggested in this thread also.

Shari


----------



## wtrass

Jordan- give me a day or two but I have part numbers from rebuilding my cylinder in the shop. That would also depend on which model/cylinder you have.

Bill


----------



## blades

Woodsman when you tried it again did you have that tank cap screwed tight again- systems are of an open design- must be able to breath- so if the hydro tank cap is plugged it can't breath - plenty people miss that little detail, and the same thing applies to the fuel tank on the engine. If it is not able to breath it will starve the engine of fuel particularly under load. Sometimes it is the simple stuff that can really muck up the works


----------



## WillysWheeler

Would it be possible to get a copy of the owners manuals? I sent a PM to Shari, but haven't heard back as of yet... Anyone with a copy please send me a message.

Thanks so much!!!


----------



## Wife'nHubby

WillysWheeler said:


> Would it be possible to get a copy of the owners manuals? I sent a PM to Shari, but haven't heard back as of yet... Anyone with a copy please send me a message.
> 
> Thanks so much!!!



I sent the files 1/22 - check your spam folder. If not there let me know and I will send again.


----------



## Dutch Scheeper

I have a Didier model 30101 ram just started to pop when pressure builds on wood shoots wood 20 feet any help ? seem like it doesn't kick down to second stage.


----------



## Dutch Scheeper

I have a Didier model 30101 ram just started to pop when pressure builds on wood shoots wood 20 feet any help ? seem like it doesn't kick down to second stage.


----------



## triptester

I am not sure of which pump is on that model but if it is a 2-stage will switch to low flow/high pressure if it doesn't the engine will stall.
The wood flying is not because of the hydraulics by itself it is more due to particular pieces of wood I have had a couple that popped that way.


----------



## Dutch Scheeper

Ram stops when touches wood then pressure seems to build then pops on every log I have didier pump 3 piece it's a longer pump


----------



## jean

Wife'nHubby said:


> Here's a spec sheet on Didier's - hope you can read it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shari


----------



## jean

Wife'nHubby said:


> Here's a spec sheet on Didier's - hope you can read it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shari


I just put a new motor on my very old Didier splitter. Now that the splitter is running again, i want to find some info on hydraulic filter. The brand is cross, 25 micron is the screen but i cannot find a part number for the filter. The filter itself has no printer number On the body. Anyone with a manual, could you look up the filter number so i can try to locate one? my filter mount has a number 4z0014 nothing matches that number that i can find. I appreciate any help on this.
Jean


----------



## Jordan3605

Dutch Scheeper said:


> Ram stops when touches wood then pressure seems to build then pops on every log I have didier pump 3 piece it's a longer pump


check hydraulic fluid level and make sure the splitter is sitting somewhat level.


----------



## jean

I cannot get the filter off and I need to find another filter. Everything on the splitter is working but the filter is very old, I cannot identify a filter part number. Any idea's? I did replace the motor with one from harbour freight.


----------



## Mike Van

I don't believe Didiers came with filters, at least mine didn't. That setup is something someone added - If you can replumb it to bypass the filter, just to test your theory, I'd do that.


----------



## triptester

It looks like a Cross brand filter assembly. A NAPA 1551 filter shows up when cross referenced. There are other brands also.

http://www.crossmfg.com/parts/filter-assembly-parts


----------



## jean

triptester said:


> It looks like a Cross brand filter assembly. A NAPA 1551 filter shows up when cross referenced. There are other brands also.
> 
> http://www.crossmfg.com/parts/filter-assembly-parts



Thanks, I need to borrow a filter wrench to remove the one on there now. The splitter sat for years unused until I finally got the Harbour Freight motor; the filter seems stuck on with years of dirt. I will look for that model number. So far, I had not found any plate or marks other than a few decals. Thanks again.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

When a filter wrench doesn't work.......


----------



## jean

Wife'nHubby said:


> When a filter wrench doesn't work.......


Been there. Waiting to get new filter before going that route. I still have a very big pile of fir tree to split. Old stuck filter, better than no filter. ; )


----------



## jean

Thanks to all for the help. I had searched Didier before but not found any info. Now I have your experiences to source, I will get my little splitter all prettied up. Lacking out buildings, I plan to build myself a splitter house to protect it so it will last another 30 years.


----------



## jean

I found the filter, see below.


----------



## mrichard

Any chance I could get a copy of the manual? I am in the process of fixing up my splitter. [email protected]

Thanks


----------



## Wife'nHubby

mrichard said:


> Any chance I could get a copy of the manual? I am in the process of fixing up my splitter. [email protected]
> 
> Thanks



Sending.....


----------



## Bronsin

Here is my didier. Got it ten years ago with a new motor.

Works awesome! I'm so proud of it!

I use the bucket to sit on while running it.


----------



## Dutch Scheeper

Bronsin said:


> View attachment 533144
> Here is my didier. Got it ten years ago with a new motor.
> 
> Works awesome! I'm so proud of it!
> 
> I use the bucket to sit on while running it.




I set mine up on 3 jack stands and stand also set a log to catch the first split mine is 40 years old put a 5 hp Honda on it runs great. Had a pump problem blown o ring fixed it works great again ;-)


----------



## Dutch Scheeper

triptester said:


> I am not sure of which pump is on that model but if it is a 2-stage will switch to low flow/high pressure if it doesn't the engine will stall.
> The wood flying is not because of the hydraulics by itself it is more due to particular pieces of wood I have had a couple that popped that way.




I found the problem blown oring in the pump works great now ;-)


----------



## s37d

Does anyone have a valid manual(owners, parts or service manual), for a Craftsman 498.286671? Picked it up off the side of the road and repowered it, working well but things like the lines are old and starting to go, would be nice to know the parts numbers of those and other items on the splitter. Thanks


----------



## Erik B

s37d said:


> Does anyone have a valid manual(owners, parts or service manual), for a Craftsman 498.286671? Picked it up off the side of the road and repowered it, working well but things like the lines are old and starting to go, would be nice to know the parts numbers of those and other items on the splitter. Thanks


Try going to the Sears web site and put in that number under service.


----------



## s37d

Yea I did go to craftsmen website, no luck. Too old of a model I guess. I know some company made this splitter for many mfrs so maybe that mfr's site has the service manual/parts listing.


----------



## triptester

If you can post a picture of the splitter we should be able to guess who the original manufacturer was.


----------



## blades

Put a shout out to Wife& Hubby, She is the queen of these.


----------



## Mufasa

Wife'nHubby said:


> Here's a spec sheet on Didier's - hope you can read it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shari


I bought my first wood splitter and am looking for a owners manual and read that you have them please help it is a didier model 26 thanks


----------



## pajeepman

Picked up a Sears labeled splitter think it might be a Didier.




Got it for a good price, the cylinder leaks at the ram. How does one get this apart



I guess that is the kind held together by a piece of wire. One end of the "wire" which looks more like a c-clip has a small hole for c-clip pliers but the other end does not. 
Also, engine will stall if it can not split it, how do you add a pressure bypass (i guess that is what it is called), so it does not stall the engine out. Will a new valve do it?

Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk


----------



## KJH

swinters said:


> Shari - The people I got the splitter from found their original Sears manual for it! I scanned it and emailed a copy to you. Feel free to share it with anyone who needs it.
> 
> If anyone can use a copy, send me a PM with your email address and I'll email a copy.


Just bought a LMF19 today. Please send a copy of manual for Didier Splitter to [email protected]. Thanks!


----------



## KJH

Wife'nHubby said:


> Files sent.
> 
> Have fun!


Just bought a LMF19 today. Please send a copy of manual for Didier Splitter to [email protected]. Thanks!


----------



## Panchito

This is my 1st attempt at posting on a forum. I just picked up a Didier CB-19, my 1st splitter . I would like to have a manual for it. Thanks!


----------



## Panchito

Panchito said:


> This is my 1st attempt at posting on a forum. I just picked up a Didier CB-19, my 1st splitter . I would like to have a manual for it. Thanks!


My email is [email protected]


----------



## Erik B

Panchito said:


> My email is [email protected]


@Wife'nHubby


----------



## Panchito

Erik B said:


> @Wife'nHubby


Thank you!


Erik B said:


> @Wife'nHubby


----------



## Bcchevy

Any chance of getting the pdfs for these splitters.
[email protected]

Thanks! And great reading!


----------



## MBONO

Any chance anyone would know what hydraulic filter would go on this Didier?


----------



## triptester

That tag appears to be a pump ID tag. Didiers did not come with a hydraulic filter.


----------



## MBONO

Wonderful. Then it appears some "modifications" were made by the previous owner......


----------



## triptester

A commonly used filter base uses a Fram 1653a filters or Napa 1553 filter


----------



## MBONO

Thank you. I can't wait to get home and look a little closer to see what mods were actually made. 

I love Craigslist......


----------



## triptester

Post a pic.


----------



## MBONO

When I jump back on it I will.


----------



## MBONO




----------



## triptester

From the pics the mods I can see are new engine,pump mount,different hydraulic tank, relocated control valve and added log tables.


----------



## Mike Van

wings have been added to the original Didier wedge too.


----------



## texican65

Hey there. I just bought this puppy yesterday, labeled under the Montgomery Wards name, but I was thinking it was a later Didier...not sure if that's the case? It's 10 1/2 ton with 5hp Briggs @ Stratton, I tested it with the knottiest round of pine that I had and it blasted the round to pieces. What say ye experts...Didier? 

Dow


----------



## pajeepman

Labeled under Sears name, does it look like a Didier to you?












Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk


----------



## triptester

pajeepman said:


> Labeled under Sears name, does it look like a Didier to you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk


Yes that was made by Didier


----------



## pajeepman

triptester said:


> Yes that was made by Didier


Thanks, that is what I thought as it looked too similiar to another Didier that I previously had.


Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk


----------



## monte498

Hi,
Thanks to all who post on these splitters as it has helped me a great deal on identifying and learning about these old splitters.
I just acquired this splitter and it has a 3.5 hp eng and I didn't see that listed in the spec sheets I have seen here.
I live in north ga mtns and burn about 2-3 cords a year. and as I'm aging ... the by hand splitting is getting harder by the day .so I am slowly acquiring the "stuff" I need to survive. The moonshine still is next but I figured it would be better to leave that to last......I also purchase some old Poulan saws that I will be refurbishing and have seen a lot of threads on those.
I was wondering if any of you all could email me the manual that's been mentioned often in this forum.
Any info is appreciated and hopefully I will be able to help others someway as well...
Thanks...
Monte
[email protected]


----------



## Erik B

monte498 said:


> View attachment 586386
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Thanks to all who post on these splitters as it has helped me a great deal on identifying and learning about these old splitters.
> I just acquired this splitter and it has a 3.5 hp eng and I didn't see that listed in the spec sheets I have seen here.
> I live in north ga mtns and burn about 2-3 cords a year. and as I'm aging ... the by hand splitting is getting harder by the day .so I am slowly acquiring the "stuff" I need to survive. The moonshine still is next but I figured it would be better to leave that to last......I also purchase some old Poulan saws that I will be refurbishing and have seen a lot of threads on those.
> I was wondering if any of you all could email me the manual that's been mentioned often in this forum.
> Any info is appreciated and hopefully I will be able to help others someway as well...
> Thanks...
> Monte
> [email protected]


@Wife'nHubby


----------



## monte498

Erik, 
did you send something? Or did I do something wrong in my post?
Sorry... i am kinda new at the forum thing.
thanks
Monte


----------



## Erik B

monte498 said:


> Erik,
> did you send something? Or did I do something wrong in my post?
> Sorry... i am kinda new at the forum thing.
> thanks
> Monte


@monte498 Wife & Hubby have manuals for the Didier splitter that they share. I was just bringing your request to their attention.


----------



## monte498

Erik B said:


> @monte498 Wife & Hubby have manuals for the Didier splitter that they share. I was just bringing your request to their attention.


I kind of figured that out finally thanks for responding I not sure about how to contact them
I clicked on the link and open the conversation hopefully that'll work thanks a lot


----------



## Erik B

monte498 said:


> I kind of figured that out finally thanks for responding I not sure about how to contact them
> I clicked on the link and open the conversation hopefully that'll work thanks a lot


@monte498 Welcome to the site. Lots of people willing to help with anything wood related. You already figured out we like pictures of equipment and stacked wood. Keep it coming.


----------



## frftr28

I recently purchased a Didier splitter and have already put it to use. So far I like it, easier than an axe. The model number is A20AG, but I can't find any info about it online. Would the manual that is being passed around in this thread cover that model? If so, I would greatly appreciate if someone could forward it to me. Just PM me for my email address.


----------



## frftr28

@Wife'nHubby Do you have a manual that would go with my Didier splitter? Model number A20AG.


----------



## Bruce Putnam

Does anyone know what the GPM is on a John S Barnes hydraulic pump #200879? That's the pump on my Didier 4 foot woodsplitter. The 2spd pump won't shift into low speed/ high pressure anymore and I was looking for a replacement but don't know what size to look for. I see all the earlier posts in this thread that had spec sheets posted can't be seen anymore because the pictures weren't hosted on this site. Thanks for any help you can give me.


----------



## triptester

If the splitter has a 5 hp. engine a 11 gpm 2-stage pump will work.


----------



## Bruce Putnam

triptester said:


> If the splitter has a 5 hp. engine a 11 gpm 2-stage pump will work.


Thanks that's what I was thinking but wasn't sure if 11gpm or 13gpm.


----------



## RickyD217

Anyone still following this thread? I can see the conversations but can't see any of the pictures


----------



## KDaigle86

Hey everyone! This thread is great. Picked up a didier splitter last fall for $200 off Craigslist. Had the original engine on it which doesn't run at this time so just swapped it out with a newer one. The splitter seems to have plenty of power and I had no issues splitting logs but the cylinder is leaking fluid a little. Called a hydraulic cylinder repair place and got quoted $25 for the seals or $220+ for them to repack it! So I am going to try and tear the cylinder apart myself and repack it. I will just bring them the piston and stuff to get the proper seals. I will try and get the specs for the seals and post them here for others to use since repair kits for these don't seem to exist. I may do some other upgrades while I am at it such as trying to raise the splitter. Thanks for all the info here!

-Kevin


----------



## Rhiggi

Hi, I'm new to this site and looking for part manual/op manual for a Didier 20 model A20AG. 
thanks for the assist.
Cheers,
Rhiggi


----------



## Erik B

Rhiggi said:


> Hi, I'm new to this site and looking for part manual/op manual for a Didier 20 model A20AG.
> thanks for the assist.
> Cheers,
> Rhiggi


@Rhiggi Welcome to the site. @Wife'nHubby may be able to help you.


----------



## freeportd

I'm new to the site - but not to my logsplitter. My dad bought it in the late 70s. It has John Deere on it - but now I know it's a Didier. I'm using it and it's doing fine - but I do want to change the hydraulic fluid. I'm not sure what to use for fluid - so hopefully wifenhubby can send me a manual. I'll send a PM to you. Or, if someone knows what fluid - please post it! thx!


----------



## CD's Cycle and ATV Shop

RickyD217 said:


> Anyone still following this thread? I can see the conversations but can't see any of the pictures


I'm wondering the same thing as RickyD2. Would be great if Wife'nHubby would Chime in.


----------



## freeportd

Yes please - Wife'nHubby - are you there? We'd love to hear from you as there are Didier owners that are still discovering this great resource!!


----------



## freeportd

Perhaps someone who has already received the manual can send one if Wife'nHubby is no longer following this thread? I'd really appreciate it.


----------



## Wythe

I’d also be interested if anyone has manuals. I’ve got a Didier SC26A that has been great and want to keep running as long as possible. Also want to know if there is anything special to know to clean out the in line hydraulic filter (says to clean every 25 hours). 

Thanks


----------



## frftr28

I'm still looking for a manual or any info for my Didier splitter. The cylinder has a leaky seal that needs replaced, so if anybody knows what size of seal I need or how to find out what size I need please let me know.


----------



## triptester

I believe Didier used several different brands of cylinders. You may have to remove the leaking seal to a hydraulic shop to get a match.


----------



## Jaybird8678

Wife'nHubby said:


> Sending.....


Hello, any chance I could get information on my Didier/ hydra-splitter #mf26, ? Thank you


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Jaybird8678 said:


> Hello, any chance I could get information on my Didier/ hydra-splitter #mf26, ? Thank you



Sure can............. click on my name/picture on the left and send me your email. I will return mail you the brochures I have.

Shari


----------



## Kaleo

Hi, All:

I'm pretty new to this forum and to Didier splitters, but I recently fell heir to one. The ram really started slowing down. I took it to a hydraulics shop, started with servicing the valve body and installing a filter head. Didn't fix it. They recommended replacing the pump, but the pump they sold me doesn't clear the I-beam support, so it can't mount up.

Who knows where I can find a replacement pump that fits? The pump itself has a placque that reads: "No. 200050, GCDL 15659, Pat. No. 2051914"

Barring that, can this be rebuilt? If so, who does that work?

Many Thanks,
Kaleo


----------



## triptester

The pumps are considered non-rebuildable . A standard log splitter pump on most Didier's were a 11 gpm 2-stage which is just under 5 inch long from mounting face to back of pump. Log splitter pumps can be found online for between 100-150 dollars.
The more common problem is worn cylinder seals.


----------



## Kaleo

triptester said:


> The pumps are considered non-rebuildable . A standard log splitter pump on most Didier's were a 11 gpm 2-stage which is just under 5 inch long from mounting face to back of pump. Log splitter pumps can be found online for between 100-150 dollars.
> The more common problem is worn cylinder seals.



Thanks. I was sold a pump, but the clearance is bad on the side facing forward. The only way it will fit is with the ports acing up and down, and that wouyld requyire another set of new hoses. I'd like to find the same pump if I can.


----------



## BWR

Original Survivor

I picked up this DIDIER Panther Model PC26A off Craigslist the other day for $200 cash. The Briggs and Stratton 5hp motor starts right up, first pull. From the date code on the B&S motor it appears to be a 1981. The only problems are the Hyd Cylinder has a blown rod end seal and one of the tires won’t hold air. After reading _many_ posts about these splitters I have learned mine does not have the brass ram guides, mine are steel. I think I am going to attempt to rebuild the Hyd Cylinder myself and I may add a Hyd filter

Any INFO anyone can provide will be helpful.

BWR 





.


----------



## pondnstream

Hello Didier owners,

I was given an old Sears splitter which I now know is a Didier. The reason for this free gift was because the machine is fully disassembled except for the motor and trailer. The splitter was taken to a hydraulic shop due not working, the shop removed and disassembled the pump, the cylinder and the spool valve and said it’ll be $900 to fix it. My friend of course refused , picked up the machine and after a year it came to me. 

Somewhere along the line a few parts went missing and the cylinder lip was dented. I’ve almost gotten the cylinder back to round so that the piston goes in, the gland nut (big end sealing block of aluminum) goes in halfway, unlike the piston it is almost the same size as the tube so tolerance is in thousands of inch. 

I’ve added pictures 







This is the cylinder after restoration efforts, piston fits and gland nut almost fits.


----------



## pondnstream

Now to the begging section...
I’m missing the following parts:

—cylinder mounting U-bolts 

—short,steel hydraulic tube from spool

— 4, 1/2” hydraulic elbows w flare ends that go on cylinder and spool (operation) valve

—2, elbows for the larger IN & Out holes on the spool valve

—C clips from inside pump shaft

That’s it ! If anyone has parts or knows the exact size of those elbows, I’d love to hear from you. 

The motor starts and runs well. Yesterday I brushed down the frame with strong mixture of washing soda and hot water to degrease it in an environment friendly way. Today will rinse and re-apply, the sludge is caked on but can now see red paint and a label.


----------



## Nino Dinatale

Could you give me any information on where I can get the seals for the cylinder


----------



## pondnstream

Absolutely!
I just spent hours carefully measuring the 6 seals in my cylinder and looking them up in the herculesus.com catalog.
But my cylinder may be different from your so you’re going to have to cross check the shape and dimensions of your seals carefully.

Also since I’ve yet to place my order at www. herculesus.com , I’m not sure what the designation of ‘10-pack’ or ‘3-pack’ means with regard the price, does it mean the listed price is multiplied by the number of seals per bag. Not sure. I only need one of each.

Here are my measurements and part numbers highlighted:




This is the seal for the old Barnes hydraulic pump w 1/2” shaft, you might be able to find it cheaper than $15.



I’m still looking for E-clips for the inside shafts of the pump. I made gaskets by cutting them out of aluminum foil. We’ll see if this works. Hard to find parts for these old components but I’ve not given up.

Finally to disassemble the cylinder tube and ‘gland nut’ try this trick if they won’t come apart: carefully warm the outside of the steel tube with a propane torch so that you almost can’t touch it , this expands it. Also figure out how to get ice or dry ice on the aluminum gland nut to cool it and shrink it. This really work, the aluminum especially soaks up the coldness. On assembly, put the gland nut and piston in the freezer overnight and heat the tube as before.


----------



## BWR

This is what I used to replace mine, so far so good. Please keep in mind I only replaced by rod end seals not the piston seals. When I disassembled mine the seals just fell apart, so I had nothing to go off of. I ordered these based only on previous experience and measurements.

Also my splitter is a Didier Panther Model: PC26A

McMaster Carr Item 1995N46
McMaster Carr item 9452K165
McMaster Carr Item 5288T279
McMaster Carr Item 5288T186
The O-Ring Store Item: AN-17-SH 1-1/2" Rod Wiper Seal

Good Luck BWR


----------



## pondnstream

Wow , your cylinder must have been leaking a lot before you replaced the seals. Your piston seal might be in similar condition and with a new piston seal you’d have less leakage past the piston and more power, but you probably checked all that. 

Btw , do they send you a bag of 50 O rings as the minimum order?


----------



## BWR

The package quantities were a lot, but the cost was low. McMaster Carr is a little on the expensive side but I have always had good luck doing business with them.


----------



## CMK Services

Hello Everyone, Newbie here.
Have a Didier Panther P26A Splitter with 5hp. Brigs.
Need source for 5/8" Suction / Return Hose.

Others on this site have changed them out to what looks like Gates (RED) Multi=purpose hose, but not sure.
Hard to find as most Hydraulic shop hoses start at 3/4", 

ANY Source will be appreciated !!

Thanks....


----------



## pajeepman

Get 3/4 hose and adapters for the fittings

Sent from my SM-J727P using Tapatalk


----------



## CMK Services

I can see getting adapter for 3/4 at the valve, but will 3/4 hose tighten enough, at the 5/8" hose barbs on the Tank and pump ?
Any Brand / type hose you recommend ?
Thanks....


----------



## blades

no it won't, you would need to change the barbs.


----------



## CMK Services

blades said:


> no it won't, you would need to change the barbs.


 I would have to change tank also,( not a bad idea getting bigger than then the stock 1 gal. Tank)
As the barbs on the Tank are not replaceable, and 5/8" barb on pump is a Tube.


----------



## blades

Hydraulics Direct has 5/8 hose by the foot. that would be 5/8" internal diameter. Now 1/2" internal hose could be 5/8" external diameter. just to make sure the apples are not mixed with the oranges.


----------



## CMK Services

Thanks, I will check them out. I do understand ID over OD in Hoses.
I also was told NAPA carries a Gate "Multi-Use" 5/8" ID hose, For Oil Use, 315 PSI, that will work.

I will check BOTH Sources.

Thanks,Charlie


----------



## vonb

Can someone tell me which Didier I have? Also, it’s in need of a new hydraulic cylinder and possibly a new valve. Can you point me to the actual cylinder size needed and cheapest place to purchase? Lastly, can someone mail me the Didier manuals to [email protected]?


----------



## CMK Services

Have Never seen a "Didier" Log splitter like that., But they made different models then most people have on this site.
I have seen Didier models with main beam off to one side, and Hyd. tank in center, such as yours
.
But they have Didier labels on cylinder and tank.

Is there a Didier Label or Name plate anywhere on the splitter ?

Tag shown in photo states Roper Model W4662BR, AYP built for Roper Outdoor Power Products.
Try contacting : 
*AYP Lawn Equipment Parts*
*If you need assistance Call us toll free at 1-888-656-7278 or Direct at 205 669-2500

Found
manual for 3-point ROPER, splitter on ebay, but would not help you.

I don't believe Didier manual will help you, but Cylinder and Valve, can be purchased at most Hydraulic parts store online.

Maybe someone else will chime in here about this splitter.......

Thanks*


----------



## Einar

Hello, looking for the manual/instructions for didier, can anyone help? [email protected] Thanks!


----------



## rdan123

Wife'nHubby said:


> Here's a spec sheet on Didier's - hope you can read it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello, the spec sheet is blurry and I can't figure out how to view it, please help! Thanks
> Shari


----------



## blades

I do not know if Shari ( wife and hubby) is still a member here as I haven't seen a post from her in quite awhile- She had a ton of info on these. 

That said it is a basic hydro splitter system system. If you are having a problem please explain and one of us will like be able to help you work through it.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Hey, Blades! Yup, still here. Older but not wiser. I need some wood......... hint, hint.

If anyone needs the Didier manuals click on my name on the left and send me a private message with your email address.

Stay warm everyone!

Shari (& hubby)


----------



## Wife'nHubby

[email protected] watch your email for a reply from me......


----------



## gordda40

I am wondering if someone has a manual for the Didier MF 26 Splitter I could get? My email is [email protected]

Dan


----------



## Wife'nHubby

gordda40 said:


> I am wondering if someone has a manual for the Didier MF 26 Splitter I could get? My email is [email protected]
> 
> Dan


 file sent


----------



## gordda40

Wife'nHubby said:


> file sent


Hello and thanks for the reply! I did not find email in my regular or spam folder. Could you possibly resend to the msn account and also send it to [email protected]. I sometimes don't seem to get emails to the msn account, even from my wife!

Dan


----------



## tjstawicki

Hi,
I was lucky enough to pick up a Didier Mfg. splitter at the end of a driveway. Motor has great compression. I'm going to pull the carburetor and flush the gas tank today, change the oil, etc, and see if it starts. Just wondering if anyone has a manual for it? It is a Didier MF50. My email is [email protected]

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Wife'nHubby

tjstawicki said:


> Hi,
> I was lucky enough to pick up a Didier Mfg. splitter at the end of a driveway. Motor has great compression. I'm going to pull the carburetor and flush the gas tank today, change the oil, etc, and see if it starts. Just wondering if anyone has a manual for it? It is a Didier MF50. My email is [email protected]
> 
> Thanks in advance!




Great price!!! Manual on its way to you.

Shari


----------



## tjstawicki

Wife'nHubby said:


> Great price!!! Manual on its way to you.
> 
> Shari


Thank you so much!


----------



## Cabinets

I just picked up a used"Hydra Splitter". I can't seem to find a model # on it. I was told it is a 40 ton rated. The cylinder sure looks like a beast, but frankly I would be surprised. Does anyone have pics with specs or know where to get manuals? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Cabinets

Wife'nHubby said:


> Great price!!! Manual on its way to you.
> 
> Shari


----------



## ErnieG

Hi everyone..
This is my first post on this forum and I must say there is a wealth of knowledge here ! 
I recently acquired a Dieder log splitter ..it's in need of some repairs. Piston seals hose replacements and the hydraulic reservoir is leaking . 
I'd like to know if there's a good source for seals for the piston and maybe a replacement hydraulic reservoir? 
I would also like a copy of the manual if someone could send me one .
Thanks very much for the help ! 
Ernie


----------



## pondnstream

ErnieG said:


> Hi everyone..
> This is my first post on this forum and I must say there is a wealth of knowledge here !
> I recently acquired a Dieder log splitter ..it's in need of some repairs. Piston seals hose replacements and the hydraulic reservoir is leaking .
> I'd like to know if there's a good source for seals for the piston and maybe a replacement hydraulic reservoir?
> I would also like a copy of the manual if someone could send me one .
> Thanks very much for the help !
> Ernie


Hi Ernie 

welcome to Arborsite. 
Posts 621 , 622 have a description of the seals for the hydraulic cylinder etc and the vendors where you can purchase them (McMaster-Carr or Hercules Seals herculesus.com).
Please review those posts.


----------



## ErnieG

pondnstream said:


> Hi Ernie
> 
> welcome to Arborsite.
> Posts 621 , 622 have a description of the seals for the hydraulic cylinder etc and the vendors where you can purchase them (McMaster-Carr or Hercules Seals herculesus.com).
> Please review those posts.


Thank you very much for the reply .
If I can ask you a few others about the seals ..from a little research I did I think my cylinder is a "H" model . Would these seals fit ..the only reason I ask is I didn't see what model you were referring to in your rebuild post . I added some pics of my cylinder..I hope it worked ! 
Could you explain how to remove the locking ring on the end of the cylinder also...I understand it's a real PIA . 
Thanks again ...Ernie


----------



## pondnstream

ErnieG said:


> Thank you very much for the reply .
> If I can ask you a few others about the seals ..from a little research I did I think my cylinder is a "H" model . Would these seals fit ..the only reason I ask is I didn't see what model you were referring to in your rebuild post . I added some pics of my cylinder..I hope it worked !
> Could you explain how to remove the locking ring on the end of the cylinder also...I understand it's a real PIA .
> Thanks again ...Ernie


Step 1 . Remove the hydraulic pipe fittings to the hydraulic cylinder and drain out the fluid/oil.

step 2.
Look around the outside rim of the big “gland nut” in the picture for a locking screw , remove it . Then get a large pipe wrench and put it on the big hex gland nut and turn counterclockwise and remove it.

step 3 
Take notes or pictures of where each seal is located. 

step 4 
Remove each seal and label it. Then with machinists calipers carefully measure the dimensions: thickness, diameter , cross section etc

step 5 
The gland nut will have seals on the inside so it must be removed from the rod and these seals removed, carefully note the orientation of the seal (ex cup side towards inside of cylinder etc)

step 6
After all seals have been removed and measured, collect the information and compare to posts 621 622. There is no longer a cylinder seal repair kit that will have the exact seals you need. Instead, you must measure and order each one individually. Your success in this endeavor lies in your ability to measure the seals and find the match in the online catalog of the many seal vendors on internet.
Good news the seals are cheap.


----------



## ErnieG

pondnstream said:


> Step 1 . Remove the hydraulic pipe fittings to the hydraulic cylinder and drain out the fluid/oil.
> 
> step 2.
> Look around the outside rim of the big “gland nut” in the picture for a locking screw , remove it . Then get a large pipe wrench and put it on the big hex gland nut and turn counterclockwise and remove it.
> 
> step 3
> Take notes or pictures of where each seal is located.
> 
> step 4
> Remove each seal and label it. Then with machinists calipers carefully measure the dimensions: thickness, diameter , cross section etc
> 
> step 5
> The gland nut will have seals on the inside so it must be removed from the rod and these seals removed, carefully note the orientation of the seal (ex cup side towards inside of cylinder etc)
> 
> step 6
> After all seals have been removed and measured, collect the information and compare to posts 621 622. There is no longer a cylinder seal repair kit that will have the exact seals you need. Instead, you must measure and order each one individually. Your success in this endeavor lies in your ability to measure the seals and find the match in the online catalog of the many seal vendors on internet.
> Good news the seals are cheap.


Thank you very much for the excellent description ! 
I have one more question/concern ..upon removal of the pressure line from the pump there where two pieces of metal laying in the pump just below the fitting. Should I be concerned about them? One piece looks like a fin of an impeller maybe and I'm not sure of the other piece .
What's your thoughts?


----------



## pondnstream

ErnieG said:


> Thank you very much for the excellent description !
> I have one more question/concern ..upon removal of the pressure line from the pump there where two pieces of metal laying in the pump just below the fitting. Should I be concerned about them? One piece looks like a fin of an impeller maybe and I'm not sure of the other piece .
> What's your thoughts?
> View attachment 872374
> View attachment 872375


My thoughts are

the metal parts are bad ,

something broke and there are more parts elsewhere in the system and must be cleaned out

You’ll need a new pump $120

All components (cyl, valve , tank, lines , pump) must be removed, drained and cleaned out

consider adding a filter on the return line

budget $40 seals , $120 pump, $45 filter

you can do this , be persistent


----------



## ErnieG

pondnstream said:


> My thoughts are
> 
> the metal parts are bad ,
> 
> something broke and there are more parts elsewhere in the system and must be cleaned out
> 
> You’ll need a new pump $120
> 
> All components (cyl, valve , tank, lines , pump) must be removed, drained and cleaned out
> 
> consider adding a filter on the return line
> 
> budget $40 seals , $120 pump, $45 filter
> 
> you can do this , be persistent


Could you recommend a pump ? 
Thanks ...Ernie


----------



## pondnstream

ErnieG said:


> Could you recommend a pump ?
> Thanks ...Ernie


Ernie, 

1. Use your machinist calipers to measure the shaft length and diameter , also measure the mounting hole spacing.

2. post a picture of the label, it’s probably made by “Haldex” and is a “2 stage, 11 gallon per minute “

3. search the Internet for a similar replacement , you should be able to find one for $120 or a larger 16 gpm unit for $200

Did you get the gland nut off yet ?


----------



## ErnieG

pondnstream said:


> Ernie,
> 
> 1. Use your machinist calipers to measure the shaft length and diameter , also measure the mounting hole spacing.
> 
> 2. post a picture of the label, it’s probably made by “Haldex” and is a “2 stage, 11 gallon per minute “
> 
> 3. search the Internet for a similar replacement , you should be able to find one for $120 or a larger 16 gpm unit for $200
> 
> Did you get the gland nut off yet ?


Sounds good..
I didn't get to it yet ..I'm planning on doing it tonight when I get home from work . I'm going to borrow a big crescent wrench from a mechanic here at work to remove the nut . 
I have all the lines removed already..I planned on replacing all of them . When I got it home and took them off I discovered the oil was like milk so I assumed it got water in it which isn't good either . 
This things turning into a full restoration ! 
Ernie


----------



## pondnstream

ErnieG said:


> Sounds good..
> I didn't get to it yet ..I'm planning on doing it tonight when I get home from work . I'm going to borrow a big crescent wrench from a mechanic here at work to remove the nut .
> I have all the lines removed already..I planned on replacing all of them . When I got it home and took them off I discovered the oil was like milk so I assumed it got water in it which isn't good either .
> This things turning into a full restoration !
> Ernie


How much $ did you pay for it ?
The payback is not just the value of a working log splitter (@$700) but more valuable is what you’re going to learn along the path to repairing it, this knowledge will stay with you, you’ll build on it and pass it along to others. So don’t worry if financially it doesn’t make sense to pursue and complete the repair, education and experience have value.

once you learn how to
- disassemble and repair the seals on hydraulic cylinders aka repacking 
- find replacement parts online
- find missing information online
....then you will find that there are lots of old leaking hydraulic machines (tractors, backhoe etc etc) that are waiting for you and can be had for cheap.

in a year or two you’ll be giving to others on arboristsite!


----------



## ErnieG

pondnstream said:


> How much $ did you pay for it ?
> The payback is not just the value of a working log splitter (@$700) but more valuable is what you’re going to learn along the path to repairing it, this knowledge will stay with you, you’ll build on it and pass it along to others. So don’t worry if financially it doesn’t make sense to pursue and complete the repair, education and experience have value.


I paid $225 for it ...one good thing is it had a brand new 6.5 horse motor on it . The way I'm looking at it is ..if I have around $400 into it at the end I'm still ahead compared to the prices of new ones and even good used ones which are way north of that..at least around me here in Northeast Pa . 
I enjoy the challenge and keeps me outta trouble and the reward in the end makes it all worth it ! 
Ernie


----------



## pondnstream

ErnieG said:


> I paid $225 for it ...one good thing is it had a brand new 6.5 horse motor on it . The way I'm looking at it is ..if I have around $400 into it at the end I'm still ahead compared to the prices of new ones and even good used ones which are way north of that..at least around me here in Northeast Pa .
> I enjoy the challenge and keeps me outta trouble and the reward in the end makes it all worth it !
> Ernie


Forgot to mention that when you get the cylinder open and cleaned out , you’ll need to look down the bore with a flashlight for any scratches caused by loose metal or from the piston rubbing directly against the cylinder wall due to worn out seals. Any scratch that a fingernail catches on is too deep. This can be fixed with a hone and a drill.


----------



## ErnieG

pondnstream said:


> Forgot to mention that when you get the cylinder open and cleaned out , you’ll need to look down the bore with a flashlight for any scratches caused by loose metal or from the piston rubbing directly against the cylinder wall due to worn out seals. Any scratch that a fingernail catches on is too deep. This can be fixed with a hone and a drill.


I will be sure to check it very close ! 
Ernie


----------



## gordda40

pondnstream said:


> Step 1 . Remove the hydraulic pipe fittings to the hydraulic cylinder and drain out the fluid/oil.
> 
> step 2.
> Look around the outside rim of the big “gland nut” in the picture for a locking screw , remove it . Then get a large pipe wrench and put it on the big hex gland nut and turn counterclockwise and remove it.
> 
> step 3
> Take notes or pictures of where each seal is located.
> 
> step 4
> Remove each seal and label it. Then with machinists calipers carefully measure the dimensions: thickness, diameter , cross section etc
> 
> step 5
> The gland nut will have seals on the inside so it must be removed from the rod and these seals removed, carefully note the orientation of the seal (ex cup side towards inside of cylinder etc)
> 
> step 6
> After all seals have been removed and measured, collect the information and compare to posts 621 622. There is no longer a cylinder seal repair kit that will have the exact seals you need. Instead, you must measure and order each one individually. Your success in this endeavor lies in your ability to measure the seals and find the match in the online catalog of the many seal vendors on internet.
> Good news the seals are cheap.


Thanks for the timely conversation with Ernie, My Didier is at the shop and they are struggling finding the seals out by the Gland Nut. I am going to provide them with your list with the hopes that it will help. I have a 26f with the H cylinder, so hopefully, your research will help get this thing back together soon.


----------



## pondnstream

gordda40 said:


> Thanks for the timely conversation with Ernie, My Didier is at the shop and they are struggling finding the seals out by the Gland Nut. I am going to provide them with your list with the hopes that it will help. I have a 26f with the H cylinder, so hopefully, your research will help get this thing back together soon.


With so may cylinder configurations and seal sizes , types etc in the market , it’s best to carefully look at the original cross section (they are small) , measure carefully and match up. Most seals are still available.

one source of many


https://herculesus.com/


----------



## ErnieG

pondnstream said:


> With so may cylinder configurations and seal sizes , types etc in the market , it’s best to carefully look at the original cross section (they are small) , measure carefully and match up. Most seals are still available.
> 
> one source of many
> 
> 
> https://herculesus.com/


So after a valiant effort I wasn't able to break the nut loose . I'm going to have to take the cylinder to work tomorrow..luckily I work with some very good heavy equipment mechanics that'll have all the rite tools to help me out .
I couldn't find any locking or set screw anywhere on the cylinder and I looked all around the cylinder and nut but didn't see any . Could you possibly elaborate a little more where I should be looking ? 
The only thing I see is a slice just behind the nut in the cylinder maybe about 2 inches long and a 1/16 wide.
Ernie


----------



## pondnstream

ErnieG said:


> So after a valiant effort I wasn't able to break the nut loose . I'm going to have to take the cylinder to work tomorrow..luckily I work with some very good heavy equipment mechanics that'll have all the rite tools to help me out .
> I couldn't find any locking or set screw anywhere on the cylinder and I looked all around the cylinder and nut but didn't see any . Could you possibly elaborate a little more where I should be looking ?
> The only thing I see is a slice just behind the nut in the cylinder maybe about 2 inches long and a 1/16 wide.
> Ernie


Picture please.
Those gland nuts are often put on very tight. It’s probably best to leave the cylinder bolted down tightly in the splitter frame then put your pipe wrench on the gland nut, follow that with a 4’ piece of pipe on the pipe wrench handle. You can’t do this with channel locks.


----------



## ErnieG

pondnstream said:


> Picture please.
> Those gland nuts are often put on very tight. It’s probably best to leave the cylinder bolted down tightly in the splitter frame then put your pipe wrench on the gland nut, follow that with a 4’ piece of pipe on the pipe wrench handle. You can’t do this with channel locks.


I had a pile wrench on it but I don't have a pipe to put on the end . Here are some pics of the cylinder and the pump . 
I couldn't find much info on the pump besides what I have read here that it's a 11gpm pump . Does this sound rite ? 
Thanks ..Ernie


----------



## pondnstream

ErnieG said:


> I had a pile wrench on it but I don't have a pipe to put on the end . Here are some pics of the cylinder and the pump .
> I couldn't find much info on the pump besides what I have read here that it's a 11gpm pump . Does this sound rite ?
> Thanks ..Ernie


Yes sounds right , there are China made 11gpm pumps for about $100 online.
I see that indentation, I’m not sure what it is but I hope it’s not some form of thread locker that the manufacturer did to make sure the gland nut doesn’t come out. If that indentation is for the purpose of keeping the gland nut from turning and you simply can’t budge the gland nut even with an extension, then you could carefully grind out the indentation (start with a angle grinder , finish with a Dremel) and weld the resulting slot hole closed later. If you’re careful and grind away just the indentation then you’ll probably not damage the gland nut. Observe that the indentation is away from the end of the tube which is where a couple of rubber O-rings are. The idea was probably just to make an impression or tight spot on the lower part of that big gland nut.

Many people would say to forget this and just buy a new cylinder but I say at this point you’ve nothing to lose , everything must come apart and the metal fragments cleaned out.


----------



## triptester

ErnieG said:


> I had a pile wrench on it but I don't have a pipe to put on the end . Here are some pics of the cylinder and the pump .
> I couldn't find much info on the pump besides what I have read here that it's a 11gpm pump . Does this sound rite ?
> Thanks ..Ernie


The pump appears to be a MTE, the slot in the cylinder is likely for a lock wire.


----------



## ErnieG

triptester said:


> The pump appears to be a MTE, the slot in the cylinder is likely for a lock wire.


Thanks for the additional info ! 

Could anyone recommend a good quality pump for my application ...an 11or 13 gpm would be fine ? 
Thanks very much... Ernie


----------



## triptester

Concentric/Haldex , MTE are the major US brands. Aluminum body log splitter pumps are almost always imports.


----------



## ErnieG

triptester said:


> Concentric/Haldex , MTE are the major US brands. Aluminum body log splitter pumps are almost always imports.


Well an update with bad news ...was able to get the cylinder apart and it's scored very bad . I ordered a new one from a local supplier at a decent price . It's going to need some fabrication to make it work but it's not going to be to difficult . 
Will post some pics when it's complete. 
Thanks for the help ...Ernie


----------



## ErnieG

ErnieG said:


> Well an update with bad news ...was able to get the cylinder apart and it's scored very bad . I ordered a new one from a local supplier at a decent price . It's going to need some fabrication to make it work but it's not going to be to difficult .
> Will post some pics when it's complete.
> Thanks for the help ...Ernie


Some pics of the cylinder ...


----------



## pondnstream

ErnieG said:


> Well an update with bad news ...was able to get the cylinder apart and it's scored very bad . I ordered a new one from a local supplier at a decent price . It's going to need some fabrication to make it work but it's not going to be to difficult .
> Will post some pics when it's complete.
> Thanks for the help ...Ernie


We await your cylinder autopsy report with lots of pictures!

Did you find any metal fragments inside?

Was the damage caused by metal fragments or by worn out O rings that allowed the piston to rub against the cylinder wall?

What size cylinder did you get and how much did you pay?

what are the required modifications you have mentioned?


----------



## cumminstinkerer

@ErnieG , that sure looks like something upstream from the cylinder crapped out bad, have you pulled the valve apart yet? also be sure and remove and flush every line and fitting, that is catastrophic failure and sent s*** everywhere in your hydraulics including the tank. That is a real bummer for sure, do yourself a huge favor and clean the entire system, would really suck to spend the money and install time on new cylinder and wipe it out the first cycle because of some debris still in there or another part failing.


----------



## ErnieG

pondnstream said:


> We await your cylinder autopsy report with lots of pictures!
> 
> Did you find any metal fragments inside?
> 
> Was the damage caused by metal fragments or by worn out O rings that allowed the piston to rub against the cylinder wall?
> 
> What size cylinder did you get and how much did you pay?
> 
> what are the required modifications you have mentioned?


The only metal fragments I found were in the pressure side port of the pump . I removed all the lines..which I'm going to replace all of them . 
I'm building a new hydraulic reservoir that's going to hold 3 gallons which will help with oil temp and I'm also adding a 10 micron filter in the return line to the tank .
I believe the damage was caused by the worn seals..looks like the end cap in the piston was rubbing the inside and scored it very badly . Its beyond repair . I found a new 4"bore by 24" stroke cylinder on eBay that was just in my back yard so I lucked out there and they gave me a price break on it because the shipping wasn't very far . I asked about local pickup but because of covid-19 they were only shipping . I paid $240 for it ...shopping around I found that to be a decent deal . It has the clevis style pin mount on the end of the cylinder so I'm just going to cut that off and it will mount just like the original.
Im going to have to see how the push block lines up with the clevis style on that side ...I had to torch it off the old cylinder ..I couldn't get that to budge for nothing . Once I get the new cylinder on the splitter I can line up the push block and figure something out . 
I was able to give it a few coats of paint and repack the wheel bearing .
The new pump should be here by Wednesday ..fingers crossed ! 
The only piece I have left that may contain pieces of metal is the valve ..I'm not sure how that comes apart . Any advice on how to clean that out would be appreciated ! 
Keep everyone posted on the progress ..thanks for all the help ! 
Ernie


----------



## pondnstream

ErnieG said:


> The only metal fragments I found were in the pressure side port of the pump . I removed all the lines..which I'm going to replace all of them .
> I'm building a new hydraulic reservoir that's going to hold 3 gallons which will help with oil temp and I'm also adding a 10 micron filter in the return line to the tank .
> I believe the damage was caused by the worn seals..looks like the end cap in the piston was rubbing the inside and scored it very badly . Its beyond repair . I found a new 4"bore by 24" stroke cylinder on eBay that was just in my back yard so I lucked out there and they gave me a price break on it because the shipping wasn't very far . I asked about local pickup but because of covid-19 they were only shipping . I paid $240 for it ...shopping around I found that to be a decent deal . It has the clevis style pin mount on the end of the cylinder so I'm just going to cut that off and it will mount just like the original.
> Im going to have to see how the push block lines up with the clevis style on that side ...I had to torch it off the old cylinder ..I couldn't get that to budge for nothing . Once I get the new cylinder on the splitter I can line up the push block and figure something out .
> I was able to give it a few coats of paint and repack the wheel bearing .
> The new pump should be here by Wednesday ..fingers crossed !
> The only piece I have left that may contain pieces of metal is the valve ..I'm not sure how that comes apart . Any advice on how to clean that out would be appreciated !
> Keep everyone posted on the progress ..thanks for all the help !
> Ernie


Those clevis ends are sometimes threaded on.


----------



## ErnieG

pondnstream said:


> Those clevis ends are sometimes threaded on.


I'm hoping it is or at least usable to attach to the push block .
I may be able to fabricate the clevis end and weld it to the push block .
Ernie


pondnstream said:


> Those clevis ends are sometimes threaded on.


I'm hoping I can remove it from the cylinder easy enough then weld it to the push block ..that works make installation very easy . 
Ernie


----------



## pondnstream

ErnieG said:


> I'm hoping it is or at least usable to attach to the push block .
> I may be able to fabricate the clevis end and weld it to the push block .
> Ernie
> 
> I'm hoping I can remove it from the cylinder easy enough then weld it to the push block ..that works make installation very easy .
> Ernie


My push-block and cylinder rod are connected with a single 3/8” bolt that goes thru a hole in the end of the rod.


----------



## ErnieG

pondnstream said:


> My push-block and cylinder rod are connected with a single 3/8” bolt that goes thru a hole in the end of the rod.


My push block was a attached to the cylinder with a large nut welded to the block and threaded on the end of the cylinder. I removed the set screw and tired to unthread the block but even with lots of heat couldn't get it free so I ended up having to torch the block off the old cylinder .
Ernie


----------



## blades

For the price of a valve vs time and who knows what else to rebuild- replacing the valve would be a better choice.


----------



## pondnstream

For the record, I too came into possession of a ruined Didier splitter and am in a slow restoration process. In my case it was free and I have been able to restore most components (I hope but won’t know for sure until it’s running):

-cylinder, was able to make a hone and remove scratches, got new seals etc

-pump , dismantled, got new bearings, cut custom gaskets from 0.015” thick brass shim stock , sealed with anaerobic sealant, new seals

-valve, new seal kit

- filter , added one on suction

- frame etc, repainted it
Need to push on and finish this project and see if I actually got all the metal fragments out !


----------



## ErnieG

pondnstream said:


> For the record, I too came into possession of a ruined Didier splitter and am in a slow restoration process. In my case it was free and I have been able to restore most components (I hope but won’t know for sure until it’s running):
> 
> -cylinder, was able to make a hone and remove scratches, got new seals etc
> 
> -pump , dismantled, got new bearings, cut custom gaskets from 0.015” thick brass shim stock , sealed with anaerobic sealant, new seals
> 
> -valve, new seal kit
> 
> - filter , added one on suction
> 
> - frame etc, repainted it
> Need to push on and finish this project and see if I actually got all the metal fragments out !


Well yours looks great so far ! 
Does yours have the original Cross valve on it ...if so where did you find the seal kit for it ? 
Im going to be working on mine today. I'm heading to TSC for some new nuts and bolts and they have the coupler for the motor to the pump . 
What oil would you recommend I use ? 
Thanks very much again....Ernie


----------



## blades

ATF will work fine in cold weather. Some mfg recommend it for all weather types. AW32 and universal tractor hydraulic fluid are a couple other choices. There are some that use straight oil ( mineral oil) in various weights as well. I have been using AW32 for some 20 years in my splitter- course now days it's a Harbor Franken splitter.


----------



## ErnieG

blades said:


> ATF will work fine in cold weather. Some mfg recommend it for all weather types. AW32 and universal tractor hydraulic fluid are a couple other choices. There are some that use straight oil ( mineral oil) in various weights as well. I have been using AW32 for some 20 years in my splitter- course now days it's a Harbor Franken splitter.


Well today I made some progress ..
Got the new pump and coupler bolted on . I made a new safety shield to cover the motor shaft and coupler ...I don't have it bolted on yet though .
Took the valve apart and cleaned it to make sure there wasnt any metal in there . Everything looked good ..I got some measurements for new o-rings while I had it apart . My local suppliers didn't have the correct size so I just cleaned and put them back in . They didn't leak before so I'm hoping they are still ok to use . 
I got the new cylinder bolted in place and the two supply lines connected to it . I ended up turning the rear cylinder line 180 with the bend down to make some room for the new filter . It looks better and should function just the same . 
My new hydraulic tank should be done this week and then all thatis left is to connect the supply and return lines . 
Once that's done I can extend the cylinder and weld the push plate to the end . 
Here's some pics...


----------



## triptester

While doing all the work of rebuilding this splitter did you consider raising the height.


----------



## ErnieG

triptester said:


> While doing all the work of rebuilding this splitter did you consider raising the height.


I did think about it yes ... 
I may just find some bigger wheels and an axle ...maybe some 14" tires would bring it up just enough .


----------



## wild willie

Just wanted to get in the club . My MF 26 bought from my old neighbor for 100 dollars


----------



## ErnieG

Welcome to the club ...hope you have better luck with yours then I did ! 
Ernie


----------



## pondnstream

Your ticket is valid , climb aboard!


----------



## gtr009

Here's a link to the original manual for a Panther PC-26M. 

Panther PC-26M.pdf


----------



## pondnstream

I finally got my Didier log splitter put back together and ran some tests. The hydraulic pump that I re-sealed with homemade gaskets and high pressure sealant hasn’t leaked. Unfortunately the spool valve has a small leak out the opposite end from the handle, despite new seals & o-rings being installed, disappointing, not sure what more I can do besides installing the new seals.









View attachment IMG_0006.MOV


----------



## cookies

If it has bushings or bearings in the case that the shaft rides on their likely worn to the point the shaft has significant run out under load and the seal lip can not contain the oil. Use a dial indicator on the shaft ends, push on the shaft and rotate it to check run out. Was the shaft cut or worn where the seals ride? if so a spray weld job and some lathe time might get it back in shape.


----------



## blades

that would cost more than a new 2 stage 11 gpm pump


----------



## Abbeville TSI

My son-in-law was given a Didier splitter years ago. He replaced the B&S engine with a Predator (cough choke blasphemy) and it works well still.
What hydraulic oil filter should it use? It looks like a NAPA 1410 but it's been there on there so long that there are no numbers on it.


----------



## pondnstream

Abbeville TSI said:


> My son-in-law was given a Didier splitter years ago. He replaced the B&S engine with a Predator (cough choke blasphemy) and it works well still.
> What hydraulic oil filter should it use? It looks like a NAPA 1410 but it's been there on there so long that there are no numbers on it.


Remove the filter .
Carefully measure the dimensions 
Find a matching size on the chart below:






Catalogs







wixfilters.com


----------



## Abbeville TSI

pondnstream said:


> Remove the filter .
> Carefully measure the dimensions
> Find a matching size on the chart below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Catalogs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wixfilters.com


Thanks for the reply- I'd rather not remove the filter, it's not leaking now and given the age of the machine and my luck it would leak if I had to reuse the old filter while waiting for a replacement.


----------



## deputyrpa

Hi Shari, I just picked up an old SF26 3pt. Do you have any info on it? 

It has a rusty cylinder rod, as it was stored extended in a barn full of pigeons. Otherwise, it should clean up nicely.


----------



## blades

If the ram is pitted it will need to be rechromed or replaced, in which case replacing the cylinder assembly wood be a better / cheaper choice. the pitted ram will just keep destroying the end seals causing leakage.


----------



## pondnstream

blades said:


> If the ram is pitted it will need to be rechromed or replaced, in which case replacing the cylinder assembly wood be a better / cheaper choice. the pitted ram will just keep destroying the end seals causing leakage.


I agree w you that there could be leaking around the piston.
The reason I’m doubting cylinder’s leaking around the piston seals is that I :
-replaced all seals on piston and end seals on cylinder.
- honed out the inside cylinder wall until there wasn’t a scratch that my fingernail would catch on.

I have a 3000 psi gauge ordered and will install it between the pump and valve to see how much pressure I’m getting. The motor is a 5 hp gas so not huge and maybe that’s the issue. Without a pressure gauge I’m flying blind.

Is one gauge enough or is it beneficial to get a pressure reading at the “push” side of the cylinder in case somehow the valve is bypassing full pump pressure?


----------



## blades

Piston vs cylinder wall is only 1/2 of the equation. If a piston seal goes you lose pressure due to by pass. ram seals cause a bit of this as well- but primarly is fluid being leaked all over in both forward and retract. worst case it will begin spraying it out. spring return not so bad but a cylinder that is double acting is pressurized in both directions independtantly . in the extend mode the piston is pressurized from behind- but you have a cylinder of fluid ahead of it. in retract you are pressurizing the head area of the piston forcing the fluid behind the cylinder out, this where there most leakage will be observed in a full cycle from the ram / cylinder seal as you appling apx 600-900 psi. Dosen't take long to abraid a ram/cylinder seal with a pitted ram. Hydro fluid ain't cheap.


----------



## pondnstream

blades said:


> Piston vs cylinder wall is only 1/2 of the equation. If a piston seal goes you lose pressure due to by pass. ram seals cause a bit of this as well- but primarly is fluid being leaked all over in both forward and retract. worst case it will begin spraying it out. spring return not so bad but a cylinder that is double acting is pressurized in both directions independtantly . in the extend mode the piston is pressurized from behind- but you have a cylinder of fluid ahead of it. in retract you are pressurizing the head area of the piston forcing the fluid behind the cylinder out, this where there most leakage will be observed in a full cycle from the ram / cylinder seal as you appling apx 600-900 psi. Dosen't take long to abraid a ram/cylinder seal with a pitted ram. Hydro fluid ain't cheap.


New info: 
When the splitter is cold, for about 2 minutes it will split these hard black-birch rounds. After this initial 2 minute period the power drops off and it won’t split a full round but it only has enough pressure to split a half or quarter round. 

Now I’m thinking if it’s possible that the hydraulic fluid I used (universal tractor hydraulic fluid) is too thin and gets thinner after it heats up?


----------



## blades

I doubt that. heck they all run fine on ATF. might be a problem with the pump or the control valve. By pass function in the valve could be a culprit. need to get a gauge inserted in various sections to read pressure. Might not have all the air out of the system yet either. ifthere is a lot of bubbles in the tank got to wait a bit for them to dissipate. air in the oil will cause a problem like that


----------



## pondnstream

blades said:


> I doubt that. heck they all run fine on ATF. might be a problem with the pump or the control valve. By pass function in the valve could be a culprit. need to get a gauge inserted in various sections to read pressure. Might not have all the air out of the system yet either. ifthere is a lot of bubbles in the tank got to wait a bit for them to dissipate. air in the oil will cause a problem like tha


----------



## pondnstream

You mentioned air bubbles and yes the hydraulic fluid that’s visible in the tank has many bubbles plp


----------



## pondnstream

There are bubbles in the hydraulic fluid after it’s been running for a few minutes. I think this is called cavitation. With air mixed in the oil I can see that the air will be compressed instead of the piston being pushed. I’m not sure why these bubbles are forming. 
Hopefully my pressure gauge will shed some light on what’s happening.
First two pictures show the log I’m trying to split but usually can’t and the smaller pieces that I can always split. 
The second two pictures show the hydraulic oil after it’s been running for a while with bubbles and before running when it’s pretty clear.


----------



## triptester

Air bubbles forming in the hydraulic fluid is caused by low fluid level or a leak in the suction line between the pump and hydraulic tank. An air leak in the suction side of the pump will usually not show visible leakage


----------



## pondnstream

triptester said:


> Air bubbles forming in the hydraulic fluid is caused by low fluid level or a leak in the suction line between the pump and hydraulic tank. An air leak in the suction side of the pump will usually not show visible leakage


Thanks for that . I’ll check for air leaks and tighten the clamps on the hose between tank and pump.


----------



## Old-Feller

The return pipe inside the tank if there is one, Needs to be angled down and below the full level or it will create air bubbles. Is this a home-made tank? Or a factory made one? Here is my home built splitter, If you look at the first pic, You will see the old return pipe going straight down, It was in a location that didn't work for me, I salvaged this old tank off of a trash compactor, Anyway, I made my new return pipe the same way except I ran a pipe about ten inches long inside and then straight down with a 90 degree elbow and a 3 inch nipple.


----------



## pondnstream

Old-Feller said:


> The return pipe inside the tank if there is one, Needs to be angled down and below the full level or it will create air bubbles. Is this a home-made tank? Or a factory made one? Here is my home built splitter, If you look at the first pic, You will see the old return pipe going straight down, It was in a location that didn't work for me, I salvaged this old tank off of a trash compactor, Anyway, I made my new return pipe the same way except I ran a pipe about ten inches long inside and then straight down with a 90 degree elbow and a 3 inch nipple.


This splitter is a “Didier Splitter” which is a commercially made splitter for homeowner use, nothing like that beast you have there. These are no longer sold but lots were made and the design was evidently successful as the first generation of gas powered hydraulic log splitter. Many seem to still be in use, although they are aging and on the light-duty side . Look at this small tank , it probably holds about a gallon. I doubt the return tube bends down , the best I can do is to keep the tank topped off.


----------



## Old-Feller

I would still look into putting a larger tank on it, More oil means cooler running pump. And more longevity.


----------



## pondnstream

Old-Feller said:


> I would still look into putting a larger tank on it, More oil means cooler running pump. And more longevity.


Yes , a good idea , this one seems too small.


----------



## brickle

Old-Feller said:


> The return pipe inside the tank if there is one, Needs to be angled down and below the full level or it will create air bubbles. Is this a home-made tank? Or a factory made one? Here is my home built splitter, If you look at the first pic, You will see the old return pipe going straight down, It was in a location that didn't work for me, I salvaged this old tank off of a trash compactor, Anyway, I made my new return pipe the same way except I ran a pipe about ten inches long inside and then straight down with a 90 degree elbow and a 3 inch nipple.


Is there a vent hole in the cap of the tank?


----------



## blades

What I did was add a secondary oil tank above the oem one In this way the oem tank is completely filled, hence the return line is always below the oil level. all breathing and fill points are on the secondary tank.


----------



## Old-Feller

brickle said:


> Is there a vent hole in the cap of the tank?


Yes it has a vented cap.


----------



## Gabby3545

Thanks for the spec sheet. I now know that mine is a MF26. Just put on a Predator motor as the Briggs was so danged hard to start. Working great after my kid added hyd fluid. Since it had blown fluid out the other day, I never even considered it was just self-purging air. Thanks, Shari!


----------



## deputyrpa

Finished the SF26 3-pt. I added a new 4 x 2 cylinder and rebuilt everything else. I also added wings to make it a 4-way. I sure hope the I-beam is strong enough to hold up to the force. I only took pics of the 4-way.


----------



## deputyrpa

Started splitting some of last year's elm cuts today. It didn't go so well. I'm running it on a newer Massey ag tractor with about 75 PTO HP, with plenty of flow at a tough above idle.

First, the pressure relief on the Cross valve was blowing on anything larger than 12", mainly when it hit the 4-way wings. The old Cross hydraulic valve appears to be non-adjustable, with a spring, cup and ball for pressure relief. The cap says 2000psi. I had to sledge hammer the cut off the wedge and retry. 

Second, even with that low pressure blow-off, the I-beam noticeably bowed. It's only a 4x4 beam.

I think my choices are:
1. Get a valve with a higher psi and beef up the I-beam. I could weld 3/8 x 3" angle iron to the bottom I-beam flange (V pointed down). I also have 4" x 1/2" flat stock, but that may not be enough meat for welding to the the bottom flange, A stronger addition would be to rip it to ~ 3" and weld one onto each side of the web.
2. Cut the wings off. However, I really wanted a 4-way to increase my production. I have an older engine-powered MTD that's a single, and it's slow as heck. It also eats pump couplers at the worst possible times.

Any thoughts? Thanks.


----------

