# Mcculloch Super Pro 125c Complete rebuild.



## hkusp9 (Sep 15, 2012)

Ok, so this is the super pro that i received last week. I will be posting photos as i take this thing down and put it back together and go along. 

Anyhow, right now im messing with it and its missing super bad. Im pretty sure that the needs a carb rebuild since its been sitting for so long, but im wondering if that could be making it miss or if its an ignition issue maybe. 


<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid952.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fae4%2Fhkusp999%2FB7E607FA-6219-4C49-8237-18469738F81A-5279-000009C59352B542.mp4">

Im going to go through the carb here in a second and take a look at it.

Also, that puddle in front of it is a massive pile of oil. The oiler definately works! I also like that its gushing oil, since i want to make sure that the chain and bar are taken care of and the saws happy. Oil is cheap and I will happily feed this big beautiful beast!


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## russhd1997 (Sep 15, 2012)

opcorn:


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## GBD (Sep 15, 2012)

Sounds like it does`t get any fuel through the highspeed jet. What kind of carb is it?


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## struggle (Sep 15, 2012)

points not gapped properly or dirty?

Wiring on/off switch shorting out?


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## leeha (Sep 15, 2012)

Replace the points and condenser.
They're readily available.
That saw sat for a long time. No
dought they're messed up.



Lee


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## hkusp9 (Sep 15, 2012)

leeha said:


> Replace the points and condenser.
> They're readily available.
> That saw sat for a long time. No
> dought they're messed up.
> ...



its a tillotson HS124B carb. the Gaskets look to be pretty dried and stiff. 

Im goign to mess with the points and condenser now and see if i cant clean them up a little with my sandblaster or something.


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## thomas1 (Sep 15, 2012)

russhd1997 said:


> opcorn:



opcorn:opcorn:


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## Majorpayne (Sep 15, 2012)

opcorn:opcorn


thomas1 said:


> opcorn:opcorn:



opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:


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## CM76 (Sep 15, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> its a tillotson HS124B carb. the Gaskets look to be pretty dried and stiff.
> 
> Im goign to mess with the points and condenser now and see if i cant clean them up a little with my sandblaster or something.



I couldn't help myself here - Do not go anywhere near the points or ignition system components with a sandblaster!!!!!

Heed Lee's advice and replace the condenser and points with new items. They are cheap and easily found. The points can be dressed, but a faulty condenser requires replacement.

Best of luck with the rebuild - they are a great old saw to work on and run.

Chris.


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## hkusp9 (Sep 15, 2012)

CM76 said:


> I couldn't help myself here - Do not go anywhere near the points or ignition system components with a sandblaster!!!!!
> 
> Heed Lee's advice and replace the condenser and points with new items. They are cheap and easily found. The points can be dressed, but a faulty condenser requires replacement.
> 
> ...




well, honestly ive never cleaned points. so ill take a look at them and see how best to fix them up. The condenser is obviously a complete replacement item assuming i dont put a chip in it and toss both. Im about to block the piston from the exhaust port with some climbing rope and take the flywheel off so i can look at the points. 

Im definately learning here so help me, does the flywheel nut come off clockwise or counterclockwise?


Nevermind, the nut was barely even on there handtight.


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## CM76 (Sep 15, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> well, honestly ive never cleaned points. so ill take a look at them and see how best to fix them up. The condenser is obviously a complete replacement item assuming i dont put a chip in it and toss both. Im about to block the piston from the exhaust port with some climbing rope and take the flywheel off so i can look at the points.
> 
> Im definately learning here so help me, does the flywheel nut come off clockwise or counterclockwise?



The flywheel nut has a R/H thread, whereas the clutch is L/H. R/H = counterclockwise for removal.

Chris.


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## andydodgegeek (Sep 15, 2012)

Majorpayne said:


> opcorn:
> 
> opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:



Thats a good idea, let me get some.opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:
Mmm, good popcorn.


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## hkusp9 (Sep 15, 2012)

Annnd i think im done now. That was fast. 

I dont have a specialized flywheel puller for this thing and unlike other saws. Im not about to beat on the crankshaft with a hammer....

Im seeing about a million universal flywheel pullers online that should, but none that are sold by local stores. Anybody bought one that screws into the two holes on the flywheel a brick and mortar joint?


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## Tzed250 (Sep 16, 2012)

You don't need to "beat" on the crankshaft. Turn the nut over and thread it back onto the crank enough that the end of the crank is just below the nut. Hold the saw up off of the bench by the flywheel in your left hand. Strike the nut with a brass hammer or hard mallet and the FW should pop loose. Works great on my SP125.


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## hkusp9 (Sep 16, 2012)

Tzed250 said:


> You don't need to "beat" on the crankshaft. Turn the nut over and thread it back onto the crank enough that the end of the crank is just below the nut. Hold the saw up off of the bench by the flywheel in your left hand. Strike the nut with a brass hammer or hard mallet and the FW should pop loose. Works great on my SP125.



Yeah, i did exactly that. I have it 5 or 6 light raps with the hammer and 3 or 4 good stiff ones before i lost my nerve and quit. I dont want to mess up the threads on the crankshaft and as of now everything is as it was when i started. Im really excited about this saw and dont want to tear into it like a blind idiot as i have done with some previous blunders which i publicized on here. 

Im going to go buy one of those universal flywheel pullers tomorrow from somewhere, anywhere, and take this thing apart the right way, where i can have some confidence in my work.

Also, I had a guy tell me that ALL mcculloch condensers are the same across model lines. Does this mean that i can take a condenser off of a mini mac 25 or 35 and put it on my SP125????

Surely that wouldnt work right?


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## Bill G (Sep 16, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Yeah, i did exactly that. I have it 5 or 6 light raps with the hammer and 3 or 4 good stiff ones before i lost my nerve and quit. I dont want to mess up the threads on the crankshaft and as of now everything is as it was when i started. ................



You will not mess up the threads if you do it RIGHT. If you are very worried then get two thin nuts and tighten them together at the end of the crank with no threads exposed. Then slip a socket over them and give it ONE HARD WRAP WITH A REAL HAMMER. You will have the flywheel off with no damage


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## CM76 (Sep 16, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Yeah, i did exactly that. I have it 5 or 6 light raps with the hammer and 3 or 4 good stiff ones before i lost my nerve and quit. I dont want to mess up the threads on the crankshaft and as of now everything is as it was when i started. Im really excited about this saw and dont want to tear into it like a blind idiot as i have done with some previous blunders which i publicized on here.
> 
> Im going to go buy one of those universal flywheel pullers tomorrow from somewhere, anywhere, and take this thing apart the right way, where i can have some confidence in my work.
> 
> ...



You are on the right path. Don't try and get the engine apart without the proper gear

Chris.


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## Ambull (Sep 16, 2012)

A 3-finger gear puller works really good on the flywheel. BTW if you have a spark problem, you should check / change the plug first.


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## belgian (Sep 16, 2012)

leeha said:


> Replace the points and condenser.
> They're readily available.
> That saw sat for a long time. No
> dought they're messed up.
> ...



Although this is for sure the best method, this solution might be a bit drastic at first.
Looks like the OP's saws is missing a few fires, so cleaning and correct gap setting of the points would be my go to solution first. I am almost convinced that will do it. 
If the condensor were messed up, it would not fire at all.

PS. to OP : also clean carb area of foreign objects that might get sucked in when you test saws without air filter ... I noticed some debrie dancing in the carb box waiting for a chance to hop in...


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## bob15 (Sep 16, 2012)

Personally, i would scrap the points and ignition and buy a Nova II ignition module. I cannot stand points, whether its in a car or a saw.

A harmonic balancer puller or a bar-type puller would work best for pulling flywheels.

Don't remember the bolt spread on the saw, but something like this would work if the bolts aren't beyond 4.5" apart:

CJ83C, Puller, Pully and Gear

If further apart, this will work:

CJ85-1, Yoke, 3"-6 1/2"

Then you must buy the pressure screw and tip. I like the Snap On because the pressure screw tip is replaceable. 

OTC also sells bar pullers. Look for # 927, 7393 or 522 on amazon, ebay or I believe McMaster-Carr

Back to the saw, is there any crankshaft movement left to right? I had an 125 run similar and found the bearing was going and needed replacement, along with the adjoining seal. Replaced the bearing seal, added electronic ignition, and I was running again. On you saw it also would hurt to rebuild the carb, replace the fuel filer and be sure the pulse line isn't loose.


bob


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## sefh3 (Sep 16, 2012)

Rebuild the carb first. It sounds like you have junk in your carb. Try that before destroying the saw. What's the compression on this saw?


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## hkusp9 (Sep 16, 2012)

sefh3 said:


> Rebuild the carb first. It sounds like you have junk in your carb. Try that before destroying the saw. What's the compression on this saw?



Beat my ass and break my arm retarded. 

Honestly, i have a compression gauge and didnt even bother to use it.

Even with the decomp activated its an ugly mean bi$&h to pull over.

:hmm3grin2orange:


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## Tzed250 (Sep 16, 2012)

If the carb is dirty it may cause a lean start mixture. The result will be backfires that will get your attention.


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## Mastermind (Sep 16, 2012)

Pass that popcorn. 

Just take your time and settle down. That saw does not have to run tonight....right? Check the fuel lines, replace the filter, rebuild the carb, replace the points, condenser, and plug. Then try to run it. Remember, this is a classic, treat it accordingly.


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## ozflea (Sep 16, 2012)

And get the correct flywheel puller makes life easy 

McBob.


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## hkusp9 (Sep 16, 2012)

Mastermind said:


> Pass that popcorn.
> 
> Just take your time and settle down. That saw does not have to run tonight....right? Check the fuel lines, replace the filter, rebuild the carb, replace the points, condenser, and plug. Then try to run it. Remember, this is a classic, treat it accordingly.



honestly, your advice is absolutely spot on! 

I told myself before i ever got this saw that i was going to do a complete teardown on it and rebuild and repaint it before i ever tried to start it. I was thinking new piston rings, new oil seals, new filters and carb kit and fresh paint and the works. 

Sure enough, its not in the garage 2 days and im out there yanking on it. :msp_tongue:

Also, i have determined that it has a gas tank leak because it leaked fuel all over everywhere last night while sitting and there appears to be bondo all over the outside of the top handle and some kind of nasty sealant gobbed all on the inside. Thats going to have to get fixed as well...

Anyhow, i located a "flywheel puller" and modified it with some home depot parts. Im going to go change out of my dress clothes now and head to the garage to play with it and post some pictures. 

I would have had more time today to play with my saws but i drove across town to do a little personal time, non police, private investigating on a guy that was scamming hobbyist's out of money on another internet message board. Im thinking hes about to realize that the internet is a much smaller place than he thought and not everybody gets away with online fraud.


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## sefh3 (Sep 16, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Beat my ass and break my arm retarded.
> 
> Honestly, i have a compression gauge and didnt even bother to use it.
> 
> ...




WOW. I have to bite my tongue on this. Here I am trying to help you and I get this. 

May I ask how many saws have you rebuild.... 

I have build hundreds of saws and this what I get..... 

Good Luck!!!!!!


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## Mastermind (Sep 16, 2012)

sefh3 said:


> WOW. I have to bite my tongue on this. Here I am trying to help you and I get this.
> 
> May I ask how many saws have you rebuild....
> 
> ...



I think he was calling himself retarded for not thinking to check compression.


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## thomas1 (Sep 16, 2012)

Mastermind said:


> I think he was calling himself retarded for not thinking to check compression.



I think that was his description of the compression. As in "that thing has so much compression it's retarded". 

Randy, are you hiring?


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## rwoods (Sep 17, 2012)

:agree2: Ron


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## hkusp9 (Sep 17, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> I think that was his description of the compression. As in "that thing has so much compression it's retarded".
> 
> Randy, are you hiring?



Ill give it to Thomas, he actually got this one correct. I honestly didnt think anybody could misunderstand that description. 

I meant the compression is so strong it "whips my butt" and its so hard to pull over it "breaks my arm" and Its so hard to pull over the compression is retarded, which is a young guy term for something thats over the top, excessive, abundant, ect. :wink2:

Anyhow, give me a second and I'll post some more detailed photos of what im dealing with right now.


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## hkusp9 (Sep 17, 2012)

allright. So heres the progress.... Good and bad

I went and bought this generic auto parts store puller tool and got some bolts and washers from home depot that would fit it. Worked like a charm at budging the flywheel free, but it took some more work to get the flywheel to actually come free of the key which was a little chewed up. 







heres a video of the piston moving in the exhaust port. Looks pretty good to me. 

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid952.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fae4%2Fhkusp999%2FC07735E3-AAE2-4B33-922E-89A0031A1A08-108-0000000A061AB6EC.mp4">

now this is kind of interesting. I got into the ignition system and noticed that there is some clear plastic shrink wrap over the ignition wire that goes from the coil to the breaker. That plastic had water or gas or some kind of liquid in there that probably shouldnt be. 

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid952.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fae4%2Fhkusp999%2F41D773FA-E596-4155-A4B9-D69EEDEF5045-108-0000000AC5DE2FE4.mp4">

So i took a carpet cuttin, buck skinnin knife and hacked that off and dried the wire.


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## hkusp9 (Sep 17, 2012)

Ok, so i cleaned up that ignition wire and then i took the points (which i found when i actually got in there was just a POINT, as in one little electrical contact). anyhow. I ran a worn out piece of sandpaper over the contacts to clean them up a little and put it back on the saw. I eyeballed the gap about to where i had it before. (i know i should have bought the $6 set of feeler gauges at the auto parts store. 

Now heres where its gets interesting. I pulled off the condenser from the Mac SP125c and looked real close to the inscription stamped on it. Theres a Mac logo and teeny TINY numbers stamped.... "913". I figured, "hey this must be the condensers model number". 

So after being told on here by somebody recently that all the condensers on macs are the same, I looked at the condenser that i pulled off a busted mini mac and saw the same 913 number on it. I said to myself, "myself, screw it" and slapped it on there. 

Then i reset the flywheel in the keyway and tightened down the nut to what i THOUGHT was an appropriate level. 

So then i checked the spark with my spark tester and found that the spark was a LOT stronger and brighter. 

so then it was time to get down to business. 

I pulled the starter cord a few times and got a pop, then turned it to run and cranked it over and it burst into life and absolutely freaking screamed to full throttle. Like strong and loud and in an exciting way! 

Only problem is that i only got about 2-3 seconds of run time and it died. Like just cut right out in a snap. 

So i looked at it and played with it for a while and noticed that the flywheel doesnt seem to be perfectly round or true on the crankshaft. Like it gets closer to the coil on one side than the other. 










Kinda weird but i figured that i dont know the operating tolerances on there things and it was running so hey, how bad can it be. 

Then i popped off the flywheel again to see if i messed up something in the points and i immediately noticed it. 

The flywheel key was gone, like shredded to dust. There were little pieces of metal shavings all underneath the flywheel. I tapped out the sliver still on the crankshaft and surveyed the damage. 

crankshaft honestly looks salvageable. 





The flywheel however is kind of iffy looking at this point. Especially since i dont think its round, even when correctly centered on the crankshaft. 













Ok, so at this point. I need to find: 

Carb rebuild kit
Muffler
Muffler cover
condenser maybe
flywheel probably
air filter cover thats not cracked or repair this one
starter housing/cowling thats not cracked at the rivet where the spark plug cover goes


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## parrisw (Sep 17, 2012)

You need to degrease the taper on the crank and flywheel, and torque properly, if you did not do that?


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## hkusp9 (Sep 17, 2012)

parrisw said:


> You need to degrease the taper on the crank and flywheel, and torque properly, if you did not do that?



yeah, i torqued properly but i guess i forgot to degrease  wont make that mistake twice.

My torque wrench is going to have some skin in this game tomorrow.


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## hkusp9 (Sep 17, 2012)

haoconxiao1 said:


> why not bump the play it or delay it thread instead



??? whats the play it or delay it thread?


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## hkusp9 (Sep 17, 2012)

Also, anybody know where i can get a carb rebuild kit for a tillotson 124B carb? Cant find a single on on ebay and only two used carbs...

I heard once that you can soften up old rubber diaphragms by soaking them in automatic transmission fluid...


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## CM76 (Sep 17, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Also, anybody know where i can get a carb rebuild kit for a tillotson 124B carb? Cant find a single on on ebay and only two used carbs...
> 
> I heard once that you can soften up old rubber diaphragms by soaking them in automatic transmission fluid...



Hi,

There are plenty of kits on the bay. Retry your search with Tillotson RK-23HS.

Regards,

Chris.


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## Eccentric (Sep 17, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Also, anybody know where i can get a carb rebuild kit for a tillotson 124B carb? Cant find a single on on ebay and only two used carbs...
> 
> I heard once that you can soften up old rubber diaphragms by soaking them in automatic transmission fluid...



Your carb isn't a Tillotson "124B"................it's a Tillotson *HS*124B. You need a kit for a Tillotson *HS* carb, and that kit is RK-23HS as Chris said.

Here's some reading for you. SLOW DOWN. Study more, flail less....

Tillotson

http://www.tillotson.ie/docs/techinfo_HS_US.pdf

http://www.tillotson.ie/docs/HSPartsList.pdf

http://www.mediafire.com/?7482587082db2kz


http://www.mediafire.com/?a2w9e0ekm5lkgcz

http://www.mediafire.com/?n3663xvh9ussii5


http://www.mediafire.com/?232e5xbxiiapyom

http://www.mediafire.com/?uqrlm3r0chx1j20

http://www.mediafire.com/?5mleh588fevlw8w


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## hkusp9 (Sep 17, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> Your carb isn't a Tillotson "124B"................it's a Tillotson *HS*124B. You need a kit for a Tillotson *HS* carb, and that kit is RK-23HS as Chris said.
> 
> Here's some reading for you. SLOW DOWN. Study more, flail less....
> 
> ...



Did i accidentally leave my web camera on again? Can you actually SEE me flailing on the other end of this thing?


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## Eccentric (Sep 17, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Did i accidentally leave my web camera on again? Can you actually SEE me flailing on the other end of this thing?



I can see it in my mind's eye. Also am remembering your PM610 experience.....


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## hkusp9 (Sep 17, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> I can see it in my mind's eye. Also am remembering your PM610 experience.....



In my own defense i didnt actually break anything on that saw, i just "flailed" on it for about 2 weeks before i got it running.
Im going to try to read up on all that literature this week while i order and get in replacement parts for this bad boy. In the mean time i have that baileys 390 engine coming in today to put in the 029 super.

Ill try to post a video of the SP125c flywheel today to see if it should be saved.


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## russhd1997 (Sep 17, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> ??? whats the play it or delay it thread?



That was a spammer! It's ok to red rep them but don't quote them. The red rep is sort of a flag for the mods and quoting them make clean up that much harder. 

When you read a post that makes no sense, like some of yours it's probably a spammer. :msp_scared:


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## thomas1 (Sep 17, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Ill give it to Thomas, he actually got this one correct.



Feel free to point out the one I got wrong.


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## Mastermind (Sep 17, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> I think that was his description of the compression. As in "that thing has so much compression it's retarded".
> 
> Randy, are you hiring?



No Tom.......Jon and I have it covered here my friend. We stay busy but I reckon that's a good thing.

Mr. hkusp9

It looks like the key wasn't engaged in the flywheel just right. Take your time and learn to get in a habit of checking things twice........I'm slow at what i do compared to some guys, but I would rather take the time to make sure everything is just so before pulling that rope. Things go south fast at 7000 RPM.........

That tubing you cut of the ignition lead was there to prevent vibrations from rubbing thru and shorting out the lead. What do you plan to replace that with? 

You get ready to trade that old Mac for a good running saw give me a call.


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## Jacob J. (Sep 17, 2012)

Randy- we got lots of 125s here on the west coast. So when you're ready for one, give me a holler.


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## Mastermind (Sep 17, 2012)

Jacob J. said:


> Randy- we got lots of 125s here on the west coast. So when you're ready for one, give me a holler.



I'll keep that in mind JJ and thanks. I don't really want one, and sure don't need one. I just really hate seeing a classic saw destroyed. Now that's not a jab at the OP or anything like that........It's cool seeing someone being bitten by the CAD bug. I would love to see him slow down and take the time to do this properly rather than keep trying to run the saw before it's really ready to run.......reminds me of me when I was 12.


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## parrisw (Sep 17, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> yeah, i torqued properly but i guess i forgot to degrease  wont make that mistake twice.
> 
> My torque wrench is going to have some skin in this game tomorrow.



Ya, as well check for burrs and foreign material in the taper before putting the flywheel on.


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## hkusp9 (Sep 17, 2012)

Mastermind said:


> No Tom.......Jon and I have it covered here my friend. We stay busy but I reckon that's a good thing.
> 
> Mr. hkusp9
> 
> ...



Im probably going to replace it with some of that heat activated shrink wrap wire insulation from home depot and Ill be sure to get it on the wire tight enough that it doesnt accumulate water or gas or whatever underneath. 

Also, I thought the keyway was in there right, but i guess with the flywheel channel already being a little ate up when i got it off maybe there was some excessive play in there. Im thinking about just buying a new flywheel as a result. The crankshaft is true and centered when i spin it, and im almost certain that the flywheel was centered on the crank when i tightened it down, its just not perfectly round or true.... Never really seen anything like that. 

Im going to make some phone calls today to source parts and no, im not going to sell this gem for a shiny new whatever, I may not have the wisdom and patience that some of you older guys have, but i have boundless energy and determination and I will make this thing look like new even if it take me down a winding path to get to it. 

thanks for the offer though. :msp_wink:


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## hkusp9 (Sep 17, 2012)

Ok, got my carb kit and my hondabond4 from complete opposite ends of houston. I really am committed to doing this project right.

Also, is there anywhere local that might carry the crankshaft/flywheel key like home depot or lowes or ace hardware? 

And should leave the flywheel to crankshaft mating surfaces bare and free of oil or should a put a dab of loc-tite or something on there?


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## parrisw (Sep 17, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Ok, got my carb kit and my hondabond4 from complete opposite ends of houston. I really am committed to doing this project right.
> 
> Also, is there anywhere local that might carry the crankshaft/flywheel key like home depot or lowes or ace hardware?
> 
> And should leave the flywheel to crankshaft mating surfaces bare and free of oil or should a put a dab of loc-tite or something on there?



Don't put anything on the taper, just degrease it with Brake clean.


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## hkusp9 (Sep 17, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Don't put anything on the taper, just degrease it with Brake clean.



Cool thanks! Im gonna see if i cant steal a flywheel key off of another saw.


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## hkusp9 (Sep 17, 2012)

ok i went and bought some hondabond 4 and a carb rebuild kit. Hopefully i wont have to tear the engine down but i do plan on resealing the leaking gas tank. 







And then i started sandblasting and primering stuff. 

before





after





finally, should i JB weld these cracks and grind them smooth?


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## russhd1997 (Sep 17, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Also, is there anywhere local that might carry the crankshaft/flywheel key like home depot or lowes or ace hardware?



If you know what size and type to get you can get the flywheel key at any hardware store. It would be easier to find at a local hardware store, not Home Depot or Lowes.


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## leeha (Sep 17, 2012)

I would replace that flywheel, One off one of the other saws 
should work. Many of the larger mac's use the same flywheel. 
Is there a 250 in the batch you got? You can also lap the 
flywheel to the crank with valve grinding compound. That will
make sure both surfaces are meant to be together. A flywheel 
key you will have in one of your other saws as well. Also, Replace 
the coil wire you cut the cover off of. Get one off one of your other 
saws as well. It's great to have a few low dollar parts saws as
some parts will interchange.

I agree with Mastermind, Slow down before you ruin this classic
saw. Rome wasn't built in a day. Take it slow and pay attention.




Lee


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## hkusp9 (Sep 17, 2012)

russhd1997 said:


> If you know what size and type to get you can get the flywheel key at any hardware store. It would be easier to find at a local hardware store, not Home Depot or Lowes.



Actually im seeing them at autoparts stores online the most. Im about to go hit up an autozone or a orileys or something.


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## hkusp9 (Sep 17, 2012)

leeha said:


> I would replace that flywheel, One off one of the other saws
> should work. Many of the larger mac's use the same flywheel.
> Is there a 250 in the batch you got? You can also lap the
> flywheel to the crank with valve grinding compound. That will
> ...



Wait, i want to make sure that i get this right. Are you saying that i should replace it because it appears out of round by a millimeter from one side to the other or because the inside is a little scratched up. Because Im thinking of using your valve lapping compound idea to clean up the inside mating surfaces and i cant find a NOS flywheel anywhere....

At any rate, im going to take your advice and swap the flywheels with another one that i have laying around here. I will use the valve lapping compound idea like you suggested however. 

Anyhow, im headed out to buy a new woodruff key and some valve lapping compound and then when i get back this saw will be on the backburner while I assemble the new baileys 390 motor that i just got from the UPS man for my stihl 029 super. Soon as i get that thing running its going on the chopping block so i can mess with these two SP125's. 


Finally, Im going to shrink wrap all the coil wires and try to source a NOS condenser even though the mini mac on on it now seems to be working and has the same part number stamped on it.


----------



## leeha (Sep 17, 2012)

I don't think your flywheel is out of round. It most likely 
was not installed correctly. The key slot looked buggered 
up. You don't need a NOS flywheel. You probably have 
one right in front of you on one of the saws you got in that 
pile. Even a right hand start flywheel will work. Just need to
put the starter pawls on that will come off the 125 flywheel.




Lee


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## thomas1 (Sep 17, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Wait, i want to make sure that i get this right. Are you saying that i should replace it because it appears out of round by a millimeter from one side to the other or because the inside is a little scratched up. Because Im thinking of using your valve lapping compound idea to clean up the inside mating surfaces and i cant find a NOS flywheel anywhere....
> 
> At any rate, im going to take your advice and swap the flywheels with another one that i have laying around here. I will use the valve lapping compound idea like you suggested however.
> 
> ...



Do you understand how the taper between the crank and flywheel works, that the key is for alignment and the taper does the actual holding?


----------



## tolman_paul (Sep 17, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> finally, should i JB weld these cracks and grind them smooth?



If you're looking to do a quality restoration, have the crack heliarc (TIG) welded, then grind the weld flush and paint. JB weld is a quick and dirty snot fix, not the proper way to restore something.

As to the flywheel, if it is out of round and wobbling on the shaft, they you'll have the issue of it being out of balance and damaging the crank bearings. Valve lapping compound is appropriate for removing light scratches and getting a flywheel tapered bore to a proper fit on a crank. Lapping is precise method of removing very small quanties of metal. 0.001" can take awhile to cut via lapping. If the tapered bore on the flywheel is really chewed up, which it appears from your picture, they you really need to consider finding a used flywheel.


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## hkusp9 (Sep 17, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Do you understand how the taper between the crank and flywheel works, that the key is for alignment and the taper does the actual holding?



Yeah i get it. The key basically just sets ignition timing along with and in conjunction with the points. thats why im going to use the valve lapping compound to get a good fit with one of the other flywheels that im about to "procure" from one of the other saws, so the flywheel doesnt shear another key. 

Like i said, the flywheel channel was already a little ate up and the inside taper of it didnt look too perfect when i pulled it off. That why i had so much trouble getting it off in the first place. 

Like some of the other people were saying earlier though, had i cleaned it up really pretty before i put it back on, i probably wouldnt have killed it when i started it for the second time....


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## cbfarmall (Sep 17, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Like i said, the flywheel channel was already a little ate up and the inside taper of it didnt look too perfect when i pulled it off. That why i had so much trouble getting it off in the first place.
> 
> Like some of the other people were saying earlier though, had i cleaned it up really pretty before i put it back on, i probably wouldnt have killed it when i started it for the second time....



In my experience a flywheel will be too easy to remove with a damaged taper, especially if the flywheel spun.

Valve grinding compound on these tapers works wonder, though yours looks pretty bad.

Chris B.


----------



## heimannm (Sep 17, 2012)

You have a few flywheels on the other big saw that will work, don't waste any more time on one that is already trashed.

As other have pointed out already, the flywheel from just about any saw from the D-44 on up will work. If you can find one from a LH starter saw you won't even have to mess with transferring the starter pawls. customchainsawparts on e-bay will have several that would work right now if you insist on buying one. I have swapped the flywheel from a 200 or 250 on one of my SP105's to eliminate issue with broken fins on the original, same exact flywheel.

Mark


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## buzz sawyer (Sep 17, 2012)

Two other suggestions.
1. Don't use sandpaper on the points, it can leave rough surface impregnated with residue from the adhesive. May not be a problem at first but after they arc a few thousand times ( a couple minutes run time), it can create high resistance. Use a file (a good raker file will work, albeit slowly). The smoother the surfaces are, the longer they will last. 
2. Already suggested but check the wire where it connects to the kill switch - not much clearance in that area and it caused mine to miss badly. 

As already said, don't rush it. Besides being a nice classic saw, when you get it running there is a lot of weight moving and if any of it comes loose, you can't run fast enough to get away from it. 

Good luck!


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## hkusp9 (Sep 17, 2012)

allright, so i pulled the flywheel off another saw. Blasted all the paint and cobwebs and crap off of it, lapped it to the crankshaft perfectly, and got the key that i need. 

Then i noticed that it only has one starter pawl hole for some reason. I had to drill the other one the other half of the way out, and now im trying to get the starter pawls off the first flywheel to put it on the new flywheel. 

I know that these things have teeth or flanges on the shaft and that they have to pull straight up and out but how do you do that? 

Is there a special tool or something, some kind of prybar that slides under the pawl or something? Im going to go read up now.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 18, 2012)

ok, i had to drill out one of the worthless starter pawl nails from the back and pry the damn thing off. The other one was kind enough to pry off with a crowbar, and yes at that point i had stopped caring since i knew i could (and probably should have to save the hassle) buy a new flywheel and pawls online if necessary. 

Anyhow, i pried off the pawls and nail and hammered the crooked nails back in the spare flywheel, which surprisingly went in straight and look factory perfect now. 

Oh, also i rebuilt the carb just now as well. Here in a second after i look up the flywheel torque values, im going to crank it up first and give it a little test idel/run before break it the rest of the way down to chean and repaint it and fix the gas tank leak...


----------



## Mastermind (Sep 18, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> ok, i had to drill out one of the worthless starter pawl nails from the back and pry the damn thing off. The other one was kind enough to pry off with a crowbar, and yes at that point i had stopped caring since i knew i could (and probably should have to save the hassle) buy a new flywheel and pawls online if necessary.
> 
> Anyhow, i pried off the pawls and nail and hammered the crooked nails back in the spare flywheel, which surprisingly went in straight and look factory perfect now.
> 
> Oh, also i rebuilt the carb just now as well. Here in a second after i look up the flywheel torque values, im going to crank it up first and give it a little test idel/run before break it the rest of the way down to chean and repaint it and fix the gas tank leak...


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## ozflea (Sep 18, 2012)

leeha said:


> I would replace that flywheel, One off one of the other saws
> should work. Many of the larger mac's use the same flywheel.
> Is there a 250 in the batch you got? You can also lap the
> flywheel to the crank with valve grinding compound. That will
> ...



The SP125c has an extra 5 degrees of advance over the early type flywheels


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## hkusp9 (Sep 18, 2012)

ozflea said:


> The SP125c has an extra 5 degrees of advance over the early type flywheels



!!!!!

this i didnt know, i grabbed a flywheel off of something that was definitely an earlier flywheel. Interesting to note however that i did get it fired up and it ran pretty well at WOT but didnt idle and seemed to be surging at mid throttle. 

Im about done messing with it to see if it will run and if its worth a further time investment. It will run, and it is worth completely breaking down and rebuilding. 

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<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid952.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fae4%2Fhkusp999%2F492049F7-D841-48FF-A74D-6D26F9B84B11-841-000001713B067E41.mp4">


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 18, 2012)

Ok, so i did some more reading and from what im hearing, increasing the gap on the points will advance the ignition timing. 

Assuming that my older flywheel doesnt have the 5 degree advanced timing, and since i dont have that little white plastic factory McCulloch tming tool to check it, can i adjust the points gap to make up for the difference? 

Honestly, at this point i would be happy to buy a 125c specific flywheel just to try but i cant find one anywhere online and ive been searching pretty diligently. Tomorrow if i get time im in going to try to dig into the gas tank and correct the leak as well as clean up some components underneath it. 

Also, assuming that i really do get in (more) over my head on this... Is there anybody on here that will rebuild this thing for a reasonable price?


----------



## russhd1997 (Sep 18, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Ok, so i did some more reading and from what im hearing, increasing the gap on the points will advance the ignition timing.
> 
> Assuming that my older flywheel doesnt have the 5 degree advanced timing, and since i dont have that little white plastic factory McCulloch tming tool to check it, can i adjust the points gap to make up for the difference?
> 
> ...



I don't remember reading anywhere in this thread that you actually checked the compression! If the compression is good that part of it doesn't need to ###### with! 

The next thing that I would do is perform a vacuum and pressure test to make sure that there are no leaks. If the seals and gaskets are not leaking I would fine tune it and run it!


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## buzz sawyer (Sep 18, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> ok, i had to drill out one of the worthless starter pawl nails from the back and pry the damn thing off. The other one was kind enough to pry off with a crowbar, and yes at that point i had stopped caring since i knew i could (and probably should have to save the hassle) buy a new flywheel and pawls online if necessary.
> 
> Anyhow, i pried off the pawls and nail and hammered the crooked nails back in the spare flywheel, which surprisingly went in straight and look factory perfect now.
> 
> Oh, also i rebuilt the carb just now as well. Here in a second after i look up the flywheel torque values, im going to crank it up first and give it a little test idel/run before break it the rest of the way down to chean and repaint it and fix the gas tank leak...




FWIW, on mine, the pawl pins drive out from the back with a punch. Support the flywheel at the hub, not the fins. 
Make sure the pawl pins are secure - if reusing them, put a little loctite on the splines.

You can advance the timing by opening the points but keep in mind, while they are together, the coil is building up primary field which, when the points open, collapses and induces a voltage in the secondary windings. Less time together (wider gap) means lower voltage to fire the plug. I normally set them a couple thousandths above spec to compensate for wear on the cam rubbing block. 

It sounds pretty good running but do check for vacuum leaks - especially around the oil tank gaskets and inner flywheel housing as well as the seals. Also be careful with the boot under the fuel tank, they're hard to find and expensive. I've heard a boot from a Stihl 880 will work but haven't tried it.


----------



## leeha (Sep 18, 2012)

Sounds like you got an air leak some where.

I would fix it for you but the shipping would be 
expensive. Probably 50 beans each way.




Lee


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## hkusp9 (Sep 18, 2012)

leeha said:


> Sounds like you got an air leak some where.
> 
> I would fix it for you but the shipping would be
> expensive. Probably 50 beans each way.
> ...



Air leak was my guess as well. I dont want to run it too much with a leak and cause lean sieze or something. I think im going to disassemble it down to the engine block in order to clean and repaint it and fix the gas tank leak anyhow. Then when i get it back together i will vacuum test it and if it leaks then its going to have to get sent off to somebody because i dont have a press or the confidence to mess with the pressed in bearings.

Finally, can anybody weigh in on whether this older flywheel is actually going to be problematic or not?


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 18, 2012)

Also, somebody mentioned checking the compression...
Its hard to get a grip on it right now with the handles off of it but still, right now its a bear to start with the compression release valve activated. 

I have no idea how i would pull it over without pressing that valve in first. In fact ive never heard of anybody mention pulling over one of these things by hand to get numbers off of it.


----------



## rwoods (Sep 18, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Also, somebody mentioned checking the compression...
> Its hard to get a grip on it right now with the handles off of it but still, right now its a bear to start with the compression release valve activated.
> 
> I have no idea how i would pull it over without pressing that valve in first. *In fact ive never heard of anybody mention pulling over one of these things by hand to get numbers off of it*.



If I can do it - you can do it. Ron




View attachment 253326


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## hkusp9 (Sep 18, 2012)

rwoods said:


> If I can do it - you can do it. Ron
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Holy ####!

I stand corrected....and remind me to never arm wrestle you


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## rullywowr (Sep 18, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> ok i went and bought some hondabond 4 and a carb rebuild kit. Hopefully i wont have to tear the engine down but i do plan on resealing the leaking gas tank.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Nice Glock! What model?


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## hkusp9 (Sep 18, 2012)

rullywowr said:


> Nice Glock! What model?



:msp_w00t: sorry, didnt notice that it was visible when i took that photo, might need to review these on the computer monitor before posting them from now on. The tiny I-phone screen didnt pick that up.

I usually unholster it and keep it close when going through the local banks drive through ATM.

This is a chainsaw forum but since you asked its a G26 with trijicon night sights, 3.5# disconnector, extended slide and mag release and maritime spring cups.


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## Eccentric (Sep 18, 2012)

buzz sawyer said:


> *FWIW, on mine, the pawl pins drive out from the back with a punch. Support the flywheel at the hub, not the fins.*
> Make sure the pawl pins are secure - if reusing them, put a little loctite on the splines.
> 
> You can advance the timing by opening the points but keep in mind, while they are together, the coil is building up primary field which, when the points open, collapses and induces a voltage in the secondary windings. Less time together (wider gap) means lower voltage to fire the plug. I normally set them a couple thousandths above spec to compensate for wear on the cam rubbing block.
> ...



It's that way on all the large frame McCullochs that I've worked on. Would've thought that it was obvious. No need to flail at the "nails" with a crowbar (even if you "don't care" at that point). If you drive the pawl pivot pins ("nails"....ugh) too far and the pawls don't pivot freely, you can give them a TAP with a hammer and punch from the backside to loosen things back up. 

Also, that saw will run just fine with a 0-degree flywheel. ALL of the other large frame Macs (including the non 'C' SP-125 saw) did. A zero degree flywheel will also make the saw a tad less cranky when starting (compared to a 5 deg flywheel).....

Frustration happens. Setbacks happen. If something as simple as some stubborn pawl pivot pins throws you into a rage where you "don't care" and go at the saw with a crowbar......................well maybe you need to find another hobby and let somebody else deal with these old beasts...


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## Mastermind (Sep 18, 2012)

rwoods said:


> If I can do it - you can do it. Ron
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yeah......but you're a Tennessean.  



Eccentric said:


> It's that way on all the large frame McCullochs that I've worked on. Would've thought that it was obvious. No need to flail at the "nails" with a crowbar (even if you "don't care" at that point). If you drive the pawl pivot pins ("nails"....ugh) too far and the pawls don't pivot freely, you can give them a TAP with a hammer and punch from the backside to loosen things back up.
> 
> Also, that saw will run just fine with a 0-degree flywheel. ALL of the other large frame Macs (including the non 'C' SP-125 saw) did. A zero degree flywheel will also make the saw a tad less cranky when starting (compared to a 5 deg flywheel).....
> 
> Frustration happens. Setbacks happen. If something as simple as some stubborn pawl pivot pins throws you into a rage where you "don't care" and go at the saw with a crowbar......................well maybe you need to find another hobby and let somebody else deal with these old beasts...



Great post. :msp_thumbup:


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## Gologit (Sep 18, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> It's that way on all the large frame McCullochs that I've worked on. Would've thought that it was obvious. No need to flail at the "nails" with a crowbar (even if you "don't care" at that point). If you drive the pawl pivot pins ("nails"....ugh) too far and the pawls don't pivot freely, you can give them a TAP with a hammer and punch from the backside to loosen things back up.
> 
> Also, that saw will run just fine with a 0-degree flywheel. ALL of the other large frame Macs (including the non 'C' SP-125 saw) did. A zero degree flywheel will also make the saw a tad less cranky when starting (compared to a 5 deg flywheel).....
> 
> Frustration happens. Setbacks happen. If something as simple as some stubborn pawl pivot pins throws you into a rage where you "don't care" and go at the saw with a crowbar......................well maybe you need to find another hobby and let somebody else deal with these old beasts...



Well said.


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## Jon1212 (Sep 18, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> It's that way on all the large frame McCullochs that I've worked on. Would've thought that it was obvious. No need to flail at the "nails" with a crowbar (even if you "don't care" at that point). If you drive the pawl pivot pins ("nails"....ugh) too far and the pawls don't pivot freely, you can give them a TAP with a hammer and punch from the backside to loosen things back up.
> 
> Also, that saw will run just fine with a 0-degree flywheel. ALL of the other large frame Macs (including the non 'C' SP-125 saw) did. A zero degree flywheel will also make the saw a tad less cranky when starting (compared to a 5 deg flywheel).....
> 
> Frustration happens. Setbacks happen. If something as simple as some stubborn pawl pivot pins throws you into a rage where you "don't care" and go at the saw with a crowbar......................well maybe you need to find another hobby and let somebody else deal with these old beasts...



Perhaps one of the most well written, concise posts I've read on AS in quite awhile. 

Repped for your straight talkin' ways, and stuff.


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## leeha (Sep 18, 2012)

If it's a bear to pull over then there's no need to check compression.
Unless you just want the number. That flywheel should be ok.
If the saw were mine, I would replace both crank seals, oil tank
and stuffer gaskets, Reed plate gasket, And check the intake boot.
Crank bearings never go in these old Mac's. At least all the ones
i have had appart were still good. They are a very well made motor 
and were meant to run for hours day in and day out.




Lee


----------



## bob15 (Sep 18, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> allright. So heres the progress.... Good and bad
> 
> I went and bought this generic auto parts store puller tool and got some bolts and washers from home depot that would fit it. Worked like a charm at budging the flywheel free, but it took some more work to get the flywheel to actually come free of the key which was a little chewed up.



Just started reading you post again and want to mention in the future about keeping the nut on the crankshaft when using the puller. Just loose enough to allow for the flywheel to pop off the crank. Reason being sometimes the puller can bugger the end threads or put an ever so slight peen on the threads. The nut will prevent that and/or can also act as thread chaser when removing it off the crank.

bob


----------



## rwoods (Sep 18, 2012)

bob15 said:


> Just started reading you post again and want to mention in the future about keeping the nut on the crankshaft when using the puller. Just loose enough to allow for the flywheel to pop off the crank. Reason being sometimes the puller can bugger the end threads or put an ever so slight peen on the threads. *The nut will prevent that and/or can also act as thread chaser when removing it off the crank.*
> bob



Not to mention that the nut will also keeping the flywheel from bouncing across the room once it does let go. Ron


----------



## bob15 (Sep 18, 2012)

rwoods said:


> Not to mention that the nut will also keeping the flywheel from bouncing across the room once it does let go. Ron



It sounds like you _also _speak with experience of having items pop off at the one moment you're not ready to catch them. I never had that issue before :msp_wink:

bob


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 18, 2012)

bob15 said:


> It sounds like you _also _speak with experience of having items pop off at the one moment you're not ready to catch them. I never had that issue before :msp_wink:
> 
> bob



Premature evacuation.


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## hkusp9 (Sep 18, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> It's that way on all the large frame McCullochs that I've worked on. Would've thought that it was obvious. No need to flail at the "nails" with a crowbar (even if you "don't care" at that point). If you drive the pawl pivot pins ("nails"....ugh) too far and the pawls don't pivot freely, you can give them a TAP with a hammer and punch from the backside to loosen things back up.
> 
> Also, that saw will run just fine with a 0-degree flywheel. ALL of the other large frame Macs (including the non 'C' SP-125 saw) did. A zero degree flywheel will also make the saw a tad less cranky when starting (compared to a 5 deg flywheel).....
> 
> Frustration happens. Setbacks happen. If something as simple as some stubborn pawl pivot pins throws you into a rage where you "don't care" and go at the saw with a crowbar......................well maybe you need to find another hobby and let somebody else deal with these old beasts...



I was prying on the flywheel not out of rage or anything, but because that one was pretty well already garbage anyway and all i needed is the starter pawls off of it. I actually know a local place to get the studs from so i wasnt worried about losing those either.

Also, on the 125c flywheel, the holes for the stud didnt go all the way through the flywheel so i couldnt tap them out from the back. 

Finer points aside, the flywheel i assembled and put on it now turned out perfect though.

Ill take some pics when i tear it down more tonight.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 19, 2012)

Ok, so really tore into it after work tonight. Got home late (long story) and didnt get on it till 10:30 pm but once i did i didnt stop until about 3am. 

I have the tank sandblasted too now and got everything apart on it and located the source of the gas leak, and no you wont guess in a million years what the previous sick f^%K of an owner did to this poor thing in that regards. 

Got the oil tank pulled off the front but cant get the bottom crankcase cover off the cylinder. The gasket is on there really good. Need to find a new one of those anyway... Also I wasnt able to get the metal cover plate that cover the reeds off at all. All the bolts are off if it, but that sucker is stuck on TIGHT still from old gaskets. 

Also, i cant get the clutch off. I've read most of my manuals and it seems like the thing should just pop off but i cannot get the darn thing off. I pulled on it by hand, and then lightly tapped on the crank while holding it by the clutch and it wont come off. Im not going to screw with it anymore without more guidance from yall, but It needs to come off so i can check the crankshaft seal and replace the very well worn sprocket thats underneath it....
I really want to tear this thing down enough to have a professional check the cylinder and rings and oil seals and then replace all the gaskets before i put it back together. Ive come this far and put this much effort into it.... The thing is going to cost me the same in repairs as what i have in it, so i figure that i should do it right and get the thing perfect when its done. 

I will post some detailed photos tomorrow. Photos that will blow you away. 

Also, i came up with a really innovative and effective way to disassemble something that I bet may of you have never even though of. Im going to bed now, but I'll add more tomorrow.


----------



## Ambull (Sep 19, 2012)

rwoods said:


> Not to mention that the nut will also keeping the flywheel from bouncing across the room once it does let go. Ron



LOL I have done that before. I think it was a harmonic balancer on a 350 Chevy. Got the puller as tight as possible without breaking, and then gave the balancer a tap with a hammer. And watch her fly.....


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## Ambull (Sep 19, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Ok, so really tore into it after work tonight. Got home late (long story) and didnt get on it till 10:30 pm but once i did i didnt stop until about 3am.
> 
> I have the tank sandblasted too now and got everything apart on it and located the source of the gas leak, and no you wont guess in a million years what the previous sick f^%K of an owner did to this poor thing in that regards.
> 
> ...



The clutch nut is a LH thread, and you should be able to get that off. The rest of the clutch is press fit on a tapered shaft, and often needs a gear puller. I use a 3 finger one, and hook the fingers around the clutch. The crank has a center hole to hold the puller straight. It always comes off. At this point just be thankful you are not working on a Homelite 2100. Now those clutches are tough to get off.


----------



## leeha (Sep 19, 2012)

You will need a puller for the clutch.
It's on a tapered shaft like the flywheel.
It may or may not be keyed.




Lee


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## heimannm (Sep 19, 2012)

If the crank shaft has a key you don't want to pull on the clutch drum. With the nut off you can tell if there is a key or not, in fact if memory serves (not always reliable) the keyed crank shaft has a standard RH thread and the non-keyed crank shaft has a LH thread.

Many clutches have a couple of holes you can take advantage of and use a puller.

An 088 boot can be made to work, but the passage is not as large as the original McCulloch. 






Mark


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## cpr (Sep 19, 2012)

Glad you're excited to have it, but you do need to slow down. The 125"c" means chrome bore. Translation: NO do overs. If you wreck that bore, you're pretty much done and need a new block.

I still don't see a compression test. That is step 2 after pulling the muffler for a look-see. My stock 125c makes 185psi, my ported kart saw (no decomp) makes 195, and my Homie 2000 over 210. Yes, I rode all around the floor getting it done, but inertia is your friend.

I wouldn't monkey with the points timing, there's nothing but a headache there. Get feeler gauges, set it at .019 once, run it, check it, reset to .019 (I don't care who you are, they all move after the first run) and enjoy it.

Bob is correct on the 125c's having 5 deg. flywheels, at least mine does, but it is unmarked (the kart ones I have seen have a 5 stamped on one of the pawl travel-limit studs). Below is a picture of the difference. 0 on left, 5 on right. If you google McCulloch 5 degree flywheel, you'll turn up kart parts places that have them. My 125c, ported 101, and MC-91 have them, the rest don't. The 797s will hang with the 5er 125 no problem and still rip you hand off starting it.






Check that boot, it is, more than likely, the source of your air-leak, after that, check the oiler tank. If you had it off, it can work the bolts loose and suck through the impulse passage for the pump.

Go easy on it after reassembly. These Macs are notorious for shedding fasteners after reassembly. After the 2nd go round, most of that will stop. Torque wrenches are your friend, but still verify.

EDIT: SIDEBAR, Lee I already boxed the CP125 motor to send out tomorrow. I don't want to open it, but I'm curious which flywheel is on that one...


----------



## RandyMac (Sep 19, 2012)

A stock 797 will steal the dessert out of a 125Cs lunch and maybe the sandwich too.


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## cpr (Sep 19, 2012)

RandyMac said:


> A stock 797 will steal the dessert out of a 125Cs lunch and maybe the sandwich too.



SSSHHHHH! My price inflation days are over :hmm3grin2orange:.


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 19, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Got home late (long story)...



What happened?


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 19, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> What happened?



Tom,
Is there a special tool that can be used for removing small bits of magnesium from human eyeballs? Just curious.........


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 19, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> Tom,
> Is there a special tool that can be used for removing small bits of magnesium from human eyeballs? Just curious.........



Being that magnesium is not magnetic, in the traditional sense, I have been trying to find a solution to that problem.

I've read that if you pass a sufficient electrical current, like 60 amps at 220v, through a piece of tungsten carbide that it will become fairly attractive to small amounts of magnesium.

I have a piece of material coming and will let you know how it turns out. Until that gets here, you will have to keep using your vise-grips.


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 19, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Being that magnesium is not magnetic, in the traditional sense, I have been trying to find a solution to that problem.
> 
> I've read that if you pass a sufficient electrical current, *like 60 amps at 220v*, through a piece of tungsten carbide that it will become fairly attractive to small amounts of magnesium.
> 
> I have a piece of material coming and will let you know how it turns out. Until that gets here, you will have to keep using your vise-grips.



I recently put in a new stove, and it has less wires than my power from the sparking box thingy on the side of my house, but as luck would have it it is 220v. Can i just attach this wire to said vise grips?


----------



## samdweezel05 (Sep 19, 2012)

This should be made a sticky.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 19, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> Tom,
> Is there a special tool that can be used for removing small bits of magnesium from human eyeballs? Just curious.........



I got home late after making a last minute arrest but thanks for playing!

Ive really been gentle to this saw for the most part. Aside from the starter pawls i havent been prying or beating on anything. And when i get it put back together i want it to look and perform like new. Ive got it disassembled to the long block and mostly cleaned up now. Today i will be ordering parts for it and i think im going to try to beg, bribe, trade or pay one of the more experienced guys here to rebuild the motor. New rings seals, check the reeds ect. Even if it doesnt need it, the peace of mind would be worth the cost to me.

Also, i went over the intake boot with a fine toothed comb and its good.


----------



## leeha (Sep 19, 2012)

RandyMac said:


> A stock 797 will steal the dessert out of a 125Cs lunch and maybe the sandwich too.



Yep, I did a comparison with one Super 797 and two
SP125's. The 797 was hands down the stronger saw. 
There is a thread here somewhere if someone wants
to post the link.




Lee


----------



## Jeff Lary (Sep 19, 2012)

Mastermind said:


>



I hear, Hammer, crow bar, nails and I think Carpenter? Dude slow the ,......... down !Crow bar ,..really?


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 20, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> I will post some detailed photos tomorrow. Photos that will blow you away.
> 
> Also, i came up with a really innovative and effective way to disassemble something that I bet may of you have never even though of. Im going to bed now, but I'll add more tomorrow.


----------



## Mastermind (Sep 20, 2012)

thomas1 said:


>



I told you that when he pressurized the crankcase to split it he would kill himself......see????

:msp_tongue:


----------



## Eccentric (Sep 20, 2012)

Mastermind said:


> I told you that when he pressurized the crankcase to split it he would kill himself......see????
> 
> :msp_tongue:



Well I hope the crankcase stuffer just popped free of the gasket and bopped him in the forehead hard enough to give him amnesia. If the crankcase ruptured that'd be a waste....:frown:


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 20, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> Well I hope the crankcase stuffer just popped free of the gasket and bopped him in the forehead hard enough to give him amnesia. If the crankcase ruptured that'd be a waste....:frown:



Aaron,
Strictly for scientific purposes I would like you to consume a dozen Five Hour Energy shots before working on your saw of choice. 
Also for comparison please post up any relevant or irrelevant ramblings while under the influence of said Energy drinks.
TIA


----------



## Eccentric (Sep 20, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> Aaron,
> Strictly for scientific purposes I would like you to consume a dozen Five Hour Energy shots before working on your saw of choice.
> Also for comparison please post up any relevant or irrelevant ramblings while under the influence of said Energy drinks.
> TIA



You tryin' to kill me Jonathan????


I've got a better idea. I'll film YOU and you while YOU'RE cranked up on the energy shots. I have a mini-mac 130 with your name on it. This is gonna be sweet......:cool2:


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 20, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> Aaron,
> Strictly for scientific purposes I would like you to consume a dozen Five Hour Energy shots before working on your saw of choice.
> Also for comparison please post up any relevant or irrelevant ramblings while under the influence of said Energy drinks.
> TIA



I'm no mathematician, but that seems like it would be almost 60 hours of energy. 

Jon, how's the stove coming?


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 20, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> I'm no mathematician, but that seems like it would be almost *60 hours of energy. *
> 
> 
> 
> *Jon, how's the stove coming*?



60 hours of energy for someone relatively sedate, but with the introduction of "flailing" he ought to get "tuckered" out in 28-36 hours.

Thanks for asking Tom, that extra 220v wire really magnetized those vise grips, and I was able to get all of those mag bits out of my eyes. I had to use a silicone oven mitt on my hand though because the 'lectricity made the grips get real hot.


----------



## Steve NW WI (Sep 20, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> You tryin' to kill me Jonathan????
> 
> 
> I've got a better idea. I'll film YOU and you while YOU'RE cranked up on the energy shots. I have a mini-mac 130 with your name on it. This is gonna be sweet......:cool2:



I'll send a spare, ya know, just "in case" something happens to the first one. No need to send me your addy Jonathan, I've got it right here.


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 20, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> 60 hours of energy for someone relatively sedate, but with the introduction of "flailing" he ought to get "tuckered" out in 28-36 hours.
> 
> Thanks for asking Tom, that extra 220v wire really magnetized those vise grips, and I was able to get all of those mag bits out of my eyes. I had to use a silicone oven mitt on my hand though because the 'lectricity made the grips get real hot.



That's good to hear. I am both blown away and amazed at your use of new and innovative technology, that I had never even thought of, to accomplish your goal. Do you think you could focus on the science of chainsaw disassembly and perhaps break new ground in that arena, as well?


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 20, 2012)

Steve NW WI said:


> I'll send a spare, ya know, just "in case" something happens to the first one. No need to send me your addy Jonathan, I've got it right here.




Steve, bare in mind that I have your address as well.



thomas1 said:


> That's good to hear. I am both blown away and amazed at your use of new and innovative technology, that I had never even thought of, to accomplish your goal. Do you think you could focus on the science of chainsaw disassembly and perhaps break new ground in that arena, as well?



Sure thing 'pard, I'll be doing some compressed air experiments once the JB Weld is cured on my helmet.........long story...............details are still a little fuzzy...........muh head hurts for some reason.:msp_confused:


----------



## heimannm (Sep 21, 2012)

I must say the conversation has become more interesting that listening to husky's flailing about...

Mark


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 21, 2012)

heimannm said:


> I must say the conversation has become more interesting that listening to husky's flailing about...
> 
> Mark



And makes more sense.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 22, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> And makes more sense.



Hi, umm is this the thread about rebulding a Mcculloch Super Pro 125c?

Does anybody know where that thread is? Im looking for any information that will lead me to a socket that will remove the black screws with the odd shaped head that attach the piston connecting rod to the crank. 

In the illustrated parts list, page 15, the screws are referred to in item 32 part 110720 as "screw-spline hd special". 

I started this thread to learn, and there's information here to be had if we can keep this discussion on topic....


----------



## Eccentric (Sep 22, 2012)

*You need the special socket for those screws.Try Bob Johnson or the kart parts sites.*



hkusp9 said:


> Hi, umm is this the thread about rebulding a Mcculloch Super Pro 125c?
> 
> Does anybody know where that thread is? Im looking for any information that will lead me to a socket that will remove the black screws with the odd shaped head that attach the piston connecting rod to the crank.
> 
> ...



Hop back off of that high horse buck'o. It's gottten you in trouble here in the past (2101XP anyone?) . So we spread a little levity. Big deal. That's what you get for leaving the thread unattended for a while. 

So.................help US learn. What's your super innovative new method of disassembling saws that nobody's thought of before. You can't leave us hanging here......


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 22, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> Hop back off of that high horse buck'o. It's gottten you in trouble here in the past (2101XP anyone?) . So we spread a little levity. Big deal. That's what you get for leaving the thread unattended for a while.
> 
> So.................help US learn. What's your super innovative new method of disassembling saws that nobody's thought of before. You can't leave us hanging here......



Listen here Pal, nobody, and I mean nobody has the right to call someone a name like that...........oh wait, you said "Buck'o" with a "B"? Sorry, I thought you called him a.........nevermind. Carry on.

Yes, apparently he can leave us "hangin".


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 22, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> Hop back off of that high horse buck'o. It's gottten you in trouble here in the past (2101XP anyone?) . So we spread a little levity. Big deal. That's what you get for leaving the thread unattended for a while.
> 
> So.................help US learn. What's your super innovative new method of disassembling saws that nobody's thought of before. You can't leave us hanging here......



Another senior member advised that i keep it to myself, and i understand and respect his concerns. He's got alot more experience in this pandamonious zoo than I do.

Also, Ive done ZERO work on my saw or on welding some plastic parts together for another member like i wanted to do today to relax after a stressful day. Im locked out of my own frigging garage thanks to my Quikset-SMARTKEY. Screw you, you malfunctioning worthless POS programmable "smartkey".

I really wanted to take and post some photos and play with the feeler guages and JB weld that i bought and prime some parts.

If that deadbolt doesnt cooperate tomorrow im going to be posting some very unorthodox door breaching techniques involving bottle jacks and pneumatic water charges.

Anyhow, heres all that i have on my phone from yesterday, for now, until I can McGuyver or force my way back into my own damn property...


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 22, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Another senior member advised that i keep it to myself, and i understand and respect his concerns. He's got alot more experience in this pandamonious zoo than I do.
> 
> Also, Ive done ZERO work on my saw or on welding some plastic parts together for another member like i wanted to do today to relax after a stressful day. Im locked out of my own frigging garage thanks to my Quikset-SMARTKEY. Screw you, you malfunctioning worthless POS programmable "smartkey".
> 
> ...



Why would someone tell you to keep it to yourself? Are you going to be patenting the process?

Post some pics of the door and lock, maybe we can offer advice on how to get in.


----------



## Steve NW WI (Sep 22, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Post some pics of the door and lock, maybe we can offer advice on how to get in.



I'd try that little clickie-thingie on the sunvisor of the car, personally. :msp_tongue:


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 22, 2012)

Steve NW WI said:


> I'd try that little clickie-thingie on the sunvisor of the car, personally. :msp_tongue:



How the heck is that going to take a picture? You're silly.


----------



## Warped5 (Sep 22, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Why would someone tell you to keep it to yourself? Are you going to be patenting the process?
> 
> Post some pics of the door and lock, *maybe we can offer advice on how to get in*.




Two words: Plastic explosive.


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 22, 2012)

Warped5 said:


> Two words: Plastic explosive.



He's a plastic _welding_ expert, Wingnut.


----------



## Mastermind (Sep 22, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Hi, umm is this the thread about rebulding a Mcculloch Super Pro 125c?
> 
> Does anybody know where that thread is? Im looking for any information that will lead me to a socket that will remove the black screws with the odd shaped head that attach the piston connecting rod to the crank.
> 
> ...



Yes.....rebuilding a saw is the Title of this thread.....but you flogged the #### out of this thing in an effort to make an engine that need work fart a few times. That ain't "rebuilding" hell that's ####ing #### up. 

There's a reason these guys have descended on you.........take a good look in the mirror.

I'm out.....


----------



## cpr (Sep 22, 2012)

How did you get the tank halves apart?


----------



## Scooterbum (Sep 22, 2012)

cpr said:


> How did you get the tank halves apart?



I say BFH and a chisel.........but Shhh it's Top Secret.


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 22, 2012)

cpr said:


> How did you get the tank halves apart?



Filled it with water and put it in the freezer?


----------



## cpr (Sep 22, 2012)

Good idea actually... I know Ron was trying to get one apart and I'm pretty curious, too.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 22, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Filled it with water and put it in the freezer?



Actually that is a really good idea and i wish i would have thought of it but i also think that the water would just drip out of the fuel line hole.

If you really want to know IM me. There was some concern that people who dont know what they're doing could hurt themselves or break something by doing it wrong.


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 22, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Actually that is a really good idea and i wish i would have thought of it but i also think that the water would just drip out of the fuel line hole.
> 
> If you really want to know IM me. There was some concern that people who dont know what they're doing could hurt themselves or break something by doing it wrong.



It should be okay if you tell them the right way to do it. It's not like you sprayed starter fluid in the tank and lit a match, that would just be stupid.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 22, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> It should be okay if you tell them the right way to do it. It's not like you sprayed starter fluid in the tank and lit a match, that would just be stupid.



In that case, forget that i said anything. :msp_biggrin:


----------



## aus71383 (Sep 22, 2012)

opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:

I'm always interested in learning new thought processes and techniques. This thread has been eye opening.

I really have learned from it - and laughed quite a bit. I am by no means a 2 stroke expert....the air leak stuff is new to me. Very interesting.....and hilarious.

Thanks, and I hope this continues.

Austin


----------



## Warped5 (Sep 22, 2012)

Hey Thomas!

Where's the OP?

Did he now lock himself INSIDE the garage?

We may be looking at new worlds in locksmithing ..... :jester:


----------



## Ambull (Sep 22, 2012)

The best part about this thread is trying to figure out what Hkusp9 is going to post next. He is by far the most unpredictable ever on AS.


----------



## ozflea (Sep 22, 2012)

Ambull said:


> The best part about this thread is trying to figure out what Hkusp9 is going to post next. He is by far the most unpredictable ever on AS.



By the avatar he was a husky fella what else would you expect ?


----------



## DSS (Sep 22, 2012)

I'd just like to know why this chit show is a stickie.


----------



## parrisw (Sep 22, 2012)

Ambull said:


> The best part about this thread is trying to figure out what Hkusp9 is going to post next. He is by far the most unpredictable ever on AS.



Every post I read of his DH comes to mind.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 22, 2012)

ozflea said:


> By the avatar he was a husky fella what else would you expect ?



 I dont think ive ever had an avatar of myself on here, not that it would apply to rebuilding a Mcculloch Super Pro 125c in any form anyways. 

But since you're so feverishly thinking about my body, I am 27 yrs old, with brown hair and deep dark warm brown eyes. Im 6'00" and 170-175 lbs depending on what cycle in my running season that im in. MY BMI right now is probably between 13-15% a little on the high side, but I will be cutting soon probably. 

I can post some bikini and dedicates photos if thats where this thread has gone, or we could continue with the childish "husky" name calling, or we can talk about some frigging chainsaws....


----------



## rwoods (Sep 22, 2012)

I think the MAC man from downunder simply confused your abbreviation for your pistol preference as an abbreviaton for your chainsaw preference. If not, then it was surely a dig at Husky fans and not you. I agree that being call a Husky man is not what a MAC man wants to hear. :smile2: Ron


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 22, 2012)

Well, if you ever consider buying a quikset "smartkey" lock bang your head into the door till it hurts, then keep doing it till you cant feel the hurt anymore... 

My old Sergeant is on his way over here with the ram because F*#K this stupid deadbolt!!!

Photos coming shortly... Maybe video too.


----------



## heimannm (Sep 22, 2012)

I get a sneaking suspicion that Kyle has moved to Texas...or perhaps young fellows are just impatient and excitable everywhere.

Mark


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 22, 2012)

Allright, so Im a little out of practice since it took me 3 tries, then after i breached it, i screwed the door back into the frame so Sarge could have a go (This is the only polite thing to do since he was kind enough to bring me a ram). He took the poor thing clean off the hinges in one swing....

Anyhow, without further adooo....

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid952.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fae4%2Fhkusp999%2FBC05D671-E03F-45CA-84F3-ACA30D53785F-2066-000002F161375A0A_zps7a892937.mp4">








<a href="http://s952.photobucket.com/albums/ae4/hkusp999/?action=view&amp;current=AADB21BB-38AA-456A-A260-084F04B52758-2066-000002F20A4A795B_zpsb39e5c2f.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i952.photobucket.com/albums/ae4/hkusp999/AADB21BB-38AA-456A-A260-084F04B52758-2066-000002F20A4A795B_zpsb39e5c2f.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App"></a>






<a href="http://s952.photobucket.com/albums/ae4/hkusp999/?action=view&amp;current=698D3FC1-4824-4395-BE3D-78D3C129BFD8-2066-000002F1F95AA82D_zpsf27b9e17.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i952.photobucket.com/albums/ae4/hkusp999/698D3FC1-4824-4395-BE3D-78D3C129BFD8-2066-000002F1F95AA82D_zpsf27b9e17.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App"></a>













Also, the tape was placed on there to keep the striker on the bottom doorknob inside the door so i didnt mess up that lock too.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 22, 2012)

heimannm said:


> I get a sneaking suspicion that Kyle has moved to Texas...or perhaps young fellows are just impatient and excitable everywhere.
> 
> Mark



What do you want from me? 

My lockpicks are in the garage along with my drills and bottle jacks. I have absolutely no way or means to gain entry into the garage and it would cost me more to call out a locksmith, and take longer than if i just broke down the door and replaced it with another identical one from home depot tomorrow. They're about $88.00.

Keep in mind, i remodeled and flipped houses for a living last year and am just now going back into my regular job. 

Also, i learned all my bad habits from my dad. He's a crazy Texan too and i grew up with him throwing rocks through his truck window (he owned a bodyshop and kept spares on hand) and had to crawl through the broken bathroom window at least twice when the keys got misplaced. :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## struggle (Sep 22, 2012)

A little late now but was there anyreason you couldn't just have cut a hole in the door and reached through it to unlock the dead bolt or was it keyed both sides? At least that would have savead you the trouble of other damage? 

Clearly you did get it open. My next dumb question would be if you have a powered garage door, could you have used a remote door opener pad thing in the event keys get lost:msp_confused:


----------



## DSS (Sep 22, 2012)

struggle said:


> A little late now but was there anyreason you couldn't just have cut a hole in the door and reached through it to unlock the dead bolt or was it keyed both sides? At least that would have savead you the trouble of other damage?
> 
> Clearly you did get it open. My next dumb question would be if you have a powered garage door, could you have used a remote door opener pad thing in the event keys get lost:msp_confused:



Yeah but who the hell wants to see video of that?? Tearing up stuff is good TV.:cool2:


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 23, 2012)

Again, power was totally off to the garage door and the garage door opener.

Plus, like the other poster said... Tearing up stuff is good TV and sarge and i got to swing the ram. 

I was trying to talk him into busting out the short barreled breaching shotgun but he was a spoil sport and poo poo'ed the idea.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 23, 2012)

And back to the chainsaw, heres the video of where im at right now. 

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid952.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fae4%2Fhkusp999%2F7DC5D021-1796-42A5-B06E-1306907A50FA-2066-000002F9225AEB45_zps45374b75.mp4">


----------



## Justsaws (Sep 23, 2012)

:confident: Dame Chubs, that door is fubared.

:matrix: That's right Dude. 

:rap: Oy, they went all swamp loggers on it.

:lifter: Hope they warmed up first and then lubed it, cause it took a hammeren.

:confident: Yeah, wallered out the sides probably.

:sad4: There's no unicorns with doughnuts in there.

:matrix: Oh yeah, they're in there. Doughnuts, unicorns and chainsaws.

That was a nice looking Mac. Good luck with it.


----------



## aus71383 (Sep 23, 2012)

Wow.

:msp_ohmy:

"There has to be a better way."
~ Someone other than hkusp9


----------



## russhd1997 (Sep 23, 2012)

Justsaws said:


> :confident: Dame Chubs, that door is fubared.
> 
> :matrix: That's right Dude.
> 
> ...



We must be making progress now! I haven't seen a post like this since dh's stolen saws thread!


----------



## DSS (Sep 23, 2012)

russhd1997 said:


> We must be making progress now! I haven't seen a post like this since dh's stolen saws thread!



Define 'progress'.


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 23, 2012)

I don't know who to feel more sorry for, his wife or the kid he has on the way. Probably won't matter, if he can't deal with a locked door I can't imagine what will happen in the first weeks of the baby being home.

Chris, remind me again how he is in no way as bad as DH.


----------



## cpr (Sep 23, 2012)

So, let me get this straight. You blew the tank apart with ether? You do know Macs have a personality, right? Hope you own a kevlar bodysuit. That thing may just try to kill you.

BTW, never buy a 7-series. Or a 1-7x. Or a Super 250. Please.


----------



## DSS (Sep 23, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> I don't know who to feel more sorry for, his wife or the kid he has on the way. Probably won't matter, if he can't deal with a locked door I can't imagine what will happen in the first weeks of the baby being home.
> 
> Chris, remind me again how he is in no way as bad as DH.



Welp....


Hmmmmmm.......

I got nothing. TheDuh ain't never exploded one to get it apart. Not on purpose anyhow.


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 23, 2012)

DSS said:


> Welp....
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmm.......
> ...



Sorry, I was referring to this one:




Chris J. said:


> Thomas1, you clearly suffer from *C*ranial *R*ectal *I*nversion *D*isorder. The dh1984 reference/comparison is a lowblow by anyones (except maybe your) standards.
> 
> Hkusp9 is learning on how things work here on AS. Perhaps not fast enough for you, Thomas1, but keep in mind all of us were newbies here at one time. You've had your fun, it's time to let it go. Seriously.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 23, 2012)

cpr said:


> So, let me get this straight. You blew the tank apart with ether? You do know Macs have a personality, right? Hope you own a kevlar bodysuit. That thing may just try to kill you.
> 
> BTW, never buy a 7-series. Or a 1-7x. Or a Super 250. Please.



Your sense of humor is severly lacking. Obviously i didnt use ether. That would either create an explosion, or a big fire.


----------



## Mastermind (Sep 23, 2012)

This thread has been like a train wreak.......you want to look away but can't seem to. 

Unsubscribing.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 23, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> I don't know who to feel more sorry for, his wife or the kid he has on the way. Probably won't matter, if he can't deal with a locked door I can't imagine what will happen in the first weeks of the baby being home.
> 
> Chris, remind me again how he is in no way as bad as DH.



Ok, this is a chainsaw discussion forum where we laugh and joke and learn about chainsaws. Obviously you're autistic or something because you have absolutely positively no redeeming social skills at all. You have added nothing useful at all to any thread of mine that youve ever posted in. Your sole existence here is to tease and bully people. 

I have created this thread to entertain and inform, i have invested time and effort into this tthread for the sake of others, people have learned things and laughed at the same time on this thread.

I expect to be teased and ribbed a little and i understand that the banter keeps threads like this going and allows readers to engage with me even if they dont have any technical advice to offer. The poster above with the little animated characters talking to each other was a form of teasing, but it hilarious and a welcomed addition to the thread. Im going to have to use the unicorns and donuts thing at work! You have added nothing witty or entertaining like that, just plain and simple negativity. 

In response to my efforts you have the audacity to come in here and tell me that im a bad father and husband? I have never told someone online that they should go screw themselves, but if you walked up to a coworker or neighbor and called them a bad husband and father what response would you expect?

Im a terrific friend and husband and will make a great dad.

My Sgt obviously didnt think that free breaching training was a bad idea and who do you think was holding that camera? My lovely wife...

I built that garage with my bare hands, i can fix that door in 30-40 minutes for 80-90 bucks.


Im done with you and your alluding that im going to cause physical harm to my newborn. I want you out of ALL of my threads, im kicking you out of my playgroind for your inability to play well with others. 

Heres how it works, ive asked you at least 10 times to leave me alone, i will now report every post you make in a thread that i origonate, if you continue to crap your worthless opinion here i may give up on this site entirely.

I have had multiple people message me through this site to tell me that they're tired of ypur crap and the negative attitude of you and alot of guys like you on this site. Alot of people have turned away from this site because of you. My thread, stupid and goofy or not, is a sticky because it draws in members and readers. I may be controversial, but i know how to draw a crowd at dinner parties and on internet chat forums where membership numbers and the number of readers dictate what kind of advertising fees the site can demand from its sponsors.

Again, please Thomas1,leave me the hell alone.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 23, 2012)

ok, i have now ordered a replacement for every consumable item on the saw. It should all be here by the end of the week and i should have this thing running by the end of next month. 

I have ordered: 

fuel line
impulse line
manifold gasket
oil seals (3)
flywheel (one on it now works fine but isnt 5 degree advance, whatever $30)
condenser
points
sawdust guard for flywheel housing
spark plug
rings
new oil and crank stuffer gaskets
antivibe lower parts

I know that im forgetting some stuff at the moment but i cant think of what. 

I will post some photos later of the dried and cured JB welded gas tank. I want to make sure that its full set before i go messing with it.


----------



## Eccentric (Sep 23, 2012)

cpr said:


> So, let me get this straight. You blew the tank apart with ether? You do know Macs have a personality, right? Hope you own a kevlar bodysuit. That thing may just try to kill you.
> 
> BTW, never buy a 7-series. Or a 1-7x. Or a Super 250. Please.



Charles you forgot the 82cc Sp-80 thru DE-80 Macs...



hkusp9 said:


> Ok, this is a chainsaw discussion forum where we laugh and joke and learn about chainsaws. Obviously you're autistic or something because you have absolutely positively no redeeming social skills at all. You have added nothing useful at all to any thread of mine that youve ever posted in. Your sole existence here is to tease and bully people.
> 
> I have created this thread to entertain and inform, i have invested time and effort into this tthread for the sake of others, people have learned things and laughed at the same time on this thread.
> 
> ...



Tom is the guy who made this thread a stickie...


----------



## DSS (Sep 23, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> Charles you forgot the 82cc Sp-80 thru DE-80 Macs...
> 
> 
> 
> Tom is the guy who made this thread a stickie...



reported:msp_angry:


----------



## cpr (Sep 23, 2012)

Mastermind said:


> This thread has been like a train wreak.......you want to look away but can't seem to.
> 
> Unsubscribing.



I was thinking school bus fire...


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 23, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> Charles you forgot the 82cc Sp-80 thru DE-80 Macs...
> 
> 
> 
> Tom is the guy who made this thread a stickie...



That still doesnt make it ok to call me a bad husband and father...


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 23, 2012)

Ok, i just bought a bigger torque wrench (for the muffler and crankshaft nuts) a 3 claw clutch puller, 50 lbs of additional sandblast media, and hopefully ill have time tonight to go to the hardware store later for paint (and a new door!)

I'll post clutch photos later with questions on how to remove it. Not sure if this one is threaded or taper fit.


----------



## DSS (Sep 23, 2012)

Bigger torque wrench? How big was the one you had? 3/8 drive is lots for a saw.


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 23, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Ok, this is a chainsaw discussion forum where we laugh and joke and learn about chainsaws. Obviously you're autistic or something because you have absolutely positively no redeeming social skills at all. You have added nothing useful at all to any thread of mine that youve ever posted in. Your sole existence here is to tease and bully people.



I laugh and joke on here a lot, it's fun. You seem too have an issue with me stating what I believe. You have no problem calling me names, but if I question the way you do something that is a problem? If you're going to dish it out you should at least attempt to take it.



hkusp9 said:


> I have created this thread to entertain and inform, i have invested time and effort into this tthread for the sake of others, people have learned things and laughed at the same time on this thread.



So now you started this thread to teach everyone how to do something. Was using a crowbar to disassemble the flywheel lesson #1? I remember reading that you were going to share your amazing, new technique for splitting the tank. Then someone pm'd you and told you not to tell, because no one else here is as smart as you and they might hurt themselves if they didn't do it "right", is that correct? Why not share, you started this thread to help everyone, remember?



hkusp9 said:


> I expect to be teased and ribbed a little and i understand that the banter keeps threads like this going and allows readers to engage with me even if they dont have any technical advice to offer. The poster above with the little animated characters talking to each other was a form of teasing, but it hilarious and a welcomed addition to the thread. Im going to have to use the unicorns and donuts thing at work! You have added nothing witty or entertaining like that, just plain and simple negativity.



All I get from this is that you like cartoons. 


:dribble::boss::canny:udency::love1::spiderman::burn_joss_stick:



Better?



hkusp9 said:


> In response to my efforts you have the audacity to come in here and tell me that im a bad father and husband? I have never told someone online that they should go screw themselves, but if you walked up to a coworker or neighbor and called them a bad husband and father what response would you expect?



No, I said I didn't know who to feel more sorry for, your wife or child. All I know of you is what you've posted here. Which, in my eyes has been arrogance, impatience, lack of remorse and destruction. I don't associate those things with marriage or fatherhood.

If I told someone they were a bad father the response I expected would depend a lot of things. Are they a bad father? 



hkusp9 said:


> Im a terrific friend and husband and will make a great dad.



I hope so.



hkusp9 said:


> My Sgt obviously didnt think that free breaching training was a bad idea and who do you think was holding that camera? My lovely wife...



It was free? Who was paying for the door? If you were a firefighter would you have burned the building down to get in?



hksp9 said:


> I built that garage with my bare hands, i can fix that door in 30-40 minutes for 80-90 bucks.



Who installed the door lock that you were so pissed about? I thought the breech training was free?




hkusp9 said:


> Im done with you and your alluding that im going to cause physical harm to my newborn. I want you out of ALL of my threads, im kicking you out of my playgroind for your inability to play well with others.
> 
> Heres how it works, ive asked you at least 10 times to leave me alone, i will now report every post you make in a thread that i origonate, if you continue to crap your worthless opinion here i may give up on this site entirely.



I haven't alluded to anything, if I have had anything to say I said it. If you're reading more into it than that, that's your issue. 

I was unaware you had purchased this website. If this is not the case then I am curious as to how any threads are "yours" and how you are kicking anyone anywhere?

Report as you see fit, you might be surprised at who is already watching.

Also, I don't appreciate your attempt at bullying me into not posting by threatening me.



hkusp9 said:


> I have had multiple people message me through this site to tell me that they're tired of ypur crap and the negative attitude of you and alot of guys like you on this site. Alot of people have turned away from this site because of you.



We must talk to different people, because i received feedback almost exactly the opposite of that. What about the multiple people that asked you to stop and never work on another saw again, where do they fit in?



hkusp9 said:


> My thread, stupid and goofy or not, is a sticky because it draws in members and readers. I may be controversial, but i know how to draw a crowd at dinner parties and on internet chat forums where membership numbers and the number of readers dictate what kind of advertising fees the site can demand from its sponsors.



Don't flatter yourself, your thread is a sticky because I made it one and it wasn't to bring in new members. Being arrogant and destroying saws doesn't make you controversial, unless there is some portion of the membership that enjoys seeing you destroy chainsaws because A: that part is only X dollars, it didn't matter if it got ruined or B: you didn't care about that part, it wasn't right to start with. 

If you're so entertaining why don't you have your own TV show? Or maybe you should be touring the country? Are you really arrogant enough to believe that you being on a website will allow the owners to charge more for advertising? You said you've been a member on multiple forums, please give me one example of increased revenue related to your membership. You're ridiculous, maybe that's why the people gather to laugh at you?



hkusp9 said:


> Again, please Thomas1,leave me the hell alone.



I'm posting for the greater good, just like you.


----------



## cbfarmall (Sep 23, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Ok, i just bought a bigger torque wrench (for the muffler and crankshaft nuts) a 3 claw clutch puller, 50 lbs of additional sandblast media, and hopefully ill have time tonight to go to the hardware store later for paint (and a new door!)
> 
> I'll post clutch photos later with questions on how to remove it. Not sure if this one is threaded or taper fit.



Remove clutch:

--Loosen the nut enough to protect the threads on the crank and to allow room for it to break free from the taper.
--Pick the saw up by the drum with one hand....
--....and whack the dang nut with a BFH in your other hand and it will break free without damage. Works for me every time, on every direct drive Mac.
--Once the clutch pack is off you'll see if it there is a key to get clear before you remove the drum.

I've never used a torque wrench on these clutch or flywheel nuts. I have a few double box end wrenches, fairly long, that do nicely.

Chris B.


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 23, 2012)

DSS said:


> reported:msp_angry:



I figured it would be a good "How to" thread. Maybe a "How not to" thread?


----------



## Jwalker1911 (Sep 23, 2012)

Well theres a portion of my life that I can never get back....I hate watching people tear #### up because they're to impatient or lazy to do something right......curious....did the garage have a window? Please dont answer that question I really dont want to return here.


----------



## aus71383 (Sep 23, 2012)

When he said he was waiting for the JB weld to harden I was thinking, "Oh no! After all this!"

I can't tell if he's kidding or not. Maybe he took it to a shop to get it fixed properly and he is just messing with everyone....


----------



## ozflea (Sep 23, 2012)

Maybe he need something decent to fix first like an 090g Stihl ............. you know to cut his teeth on


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 23, 2012)

ozflea said:


> Maybe he need something decent to fix first like an 090g Stihl ............. you know to cut his teeth on



Actual teeth or sawzall teeth? No telling if the rest of this is any indicator.


----------



## StihlKiwi (Sep 23, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> I don't know who to feel more sorry for, his wife or the kid he has on the way. Probably won't matter, if he can't deal with a locked door I can't imagine what will happen in the first weeks of the baby being home.



That there is a piss-poor call man. No denying he's rip-####-and-bust about working on saws and the like but really?
He did say all his tool etc were locked in the garage and he's a cop, why not use the gear available. Its his door to fix.

You seem to put a lot of effort into making a joke outta the guy..


----------



## Sapo_feo (Sep 23, 2012)

StihlKiwi said:


> That there is a piss-poor call man. No denying he's rip-####-and-bust about working on saws and the like but really?
> He did say all his tool etc were locked in the garage and he's a cop, why not use the gear available. Its his door to fix.
> 
> You seem to put a lot of effort into making a joke outta the guy..



I agree. This started as a thread on rebuilding a SP125. Things rarely go according to plan on the first go. This is a guy that is willing to share his mistakes to gain some useful feedback. He also seems to turn all of his problems into opportunities to learn. Practicing a breach on his own door will probably be more valuable than calling a locksmith, and the cash is out of his pocket either way. Many people give advice, and few follow it. However, if you don't figure out what doesn't work for yourself it makes it difficult to recognize what will when it's offered. I have made several bad calls with saws, and will probably make a few new ones tomorrow, but if everything worked out the way I'd hoped what fun would that be?


----------



## Eccentric (Sep 23, 2012)

cbfarmall said:


> Remove clutch:
> 
> --Loosen the nut enough to protect the threads on the crank and to allow room for it to break free from the taper.
> --Pick the saw up by the drum with one hand....
> ...



Same for me with the DD Macs with tapered cranks that I've worked on Chris. I just wish I could use the same trick on a Homelite 750 that I'm working on now. For those that don't know (and Chris most assuredly isn't in that group) that particular Homelite clutch is threaded onto the crank. That clutch has most likely been on the saw since new (judging by the condition of the clutch bearing), and is being a real bastard at the moment...


----------



## wampum (Sep 24, 2012)

Okay I came close to closing this thread.I have read the thread and there is really some different ideas being posted to say the least. This guy admits to trying to learn,yet at times does seem to come across that he does not want to learn.A couple of others have started to chime in with some negative crap.

I think that there is a lot of good knowledge being shared on this thread.Some have really reached out to help.I do not know if all of the help has been accepted or appreciated,I do sense that a lot is being absorbed.

I do have a lot of faith in most of the guys on this site.I will not close the thread at this time and see where it goes,but do not get personal from here on out.If you do not have good ideas to share then do not share them.If you see something he is doing wrong,definitely point it out to him.But please do not make it personal.

Share your thoughts and have fun,but keep it on topic.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 24, 2012)

Sapo_feo said:


> I agree. This started as a thread on rebuilding a SP125. Things rarely go according to plan on the first go. This is a guy that is willing to share his mistakes to gain some useful feedback. He also seems to turn all of his problems into opportunities to learn. Practicing a breach on his own door will probably be more valuable than calling a locksmith, and the cash is out of his pocket either way. Many people give advice, and few follow it. However, if you don't figure out what doesn't work for yourself it makes it difficult to recognize what will when it's offered. I have made several bad calls with saws, and will probably make a few new ones tomorrow, but if everything worked out the way I'd hoped what fun would that be?



Thanks for the kind words Sir. 

So far the only thing that ive perceptibly messed up was the flywheel, which already had one foot in the grave. And like you said, i learned about valve lapping compound and will be ready to rock when my new flywheel comes in. 

Everything else has gone mostly smoothly. Im painting tonight and i wasnt paying close enough attention and painted the engine shroud yellow when i wanted to paint it black, but Ive seen a million of these things online that are painted a million different ways, so i guess its whatever floats your boat on that. 

Finally, im pretty sure that im not going to put the oil seals and new rings and check the bearings and press the crankcase cover back on myself yet. Im learning alot, but im not completely comfortable tackling that on my first super pro rebuild. 

On an interesting note. I found a great deal on another 125sp last week and its supposed to be delivered tomorrow so im pretty excited about that. 

Oh, also... I need to find the lower handle antivibration mount thingies. 

I think the technical terms are grommet-84661 and washer-grommet-110675 and most importantly, lower mount-83818. Ive seen a couple of small online lawnmower type of repair shops that show to have them, but I'll bet my lunch that they arent in stock.


----------



## watsonr (Sep 24, 2012)

The lapping compound is for a flywheel that doesn't quite fit the shaft and is a little rough around the inside of the taper. If you have a good flywheel and the mating surface is smooth, there's really no need to do that.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 24, 2012)




----------



## cbfarmall (Sep 24, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> Same for me with the DD Macs with tapered cranks that I've worked on Chris. I just wish I could use the same trick on a Homelite 750 that I'm working on now. For those that don't know (and Chris most assuredly isn't in that group) that particular Homelite clutch is threaded onto the crank. That clutch has most likely been on the saw since new (judging by the condition of the clutch bearing), and is being a real bastard at the moment...



I got this one. For that clutch, and most other threaded clutches (3 and 6 shoe), I use the 3 prong clutch Stihl tool that is intended for the 075. Only modification I made, is I slightly tapered the prongs to slide them between the shoes easier. It's strong enough to use a cheater pipe on.

Chris B.


----------



## Eccentric (Sep 24, 2012)

cbfarmall said:


> I got this one. For that clutch, and most other threaded clutches (3 and 6 shoe), I use the 3 prong clutch Stihl tool that is intended for the 075. Only modification I made, is I slightly tapered the prongs to slide them between the shoes easier. It's strong enough to use a cheater pipe on.
> 
> Chris B.



That's pretty slick Chris. I made a homebrew spanner to slip into the two holes in the clutch spider.................and busted my spanner wrench (without breaking the clutch loose). Cut my hand in the process too. I'll look into the Stihl 075 clutch tool. The saw I'm working on has a 6 shoe clutch.


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 24, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> I have had multiple people message me through this site to tell me that they're tired of ypur crap and the negative attitude of you and alot of guys like you on this site. Alot of people have turned away from this site because of you. *My thread, stupid and goofy or not, is a sticky because it draws in members and readers*. I may be controversial, but i know how to draw a crowd at dinner parties and on internet chat forums where membership numbers and the number of readers dictate what kind of advertising fees the site can demand from its sponsors.
> 
> Again, please Thomas1,leave me the hell alone.





Eccentric said:


> Charles you forgot the 82cc Sp-80 thru DE-80 Macs...
> 
> 
> 
> *Tom is the guy who made this thread a stickie*...




I suppose I deserve some of the Blame/ Credit for this as well, since I gave Tom a thousand credits to purchase the "stickie" option.


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 24, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> I suppose I deserve some of the Blame/ Credit for this as well, since I gave Tom a thousand credits to purchase the "stickie" option.



Thanks, buddy. :msp_thumbsup:

In the interest of learning, Hkusp9 how did you split the cases and why was jb weld needed?


----------



## cpr (Sep 24, 2012)

Still curious, as well, how you got it apart. I've sucessfully patched a cracked one by squirting some 1194 in through the cap, flowing it back and forth over the cracks over a period of minutes, then letting it sit level over the patch area for a couple of days.


----------



## rwoods (Sep 24, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Thanks for the kind words Sir.
> 
> So far the only thing that ive perceptibly messed up was the flywheel, which already had one foot in the grave. And like you said, i learned about valve lapping compound and will be ready to rock when my new flywheel comes in.
> 
> ...



These saws must have some sort of homing device built into them. Search forever to find one, you get it then they just start calling your name. Just remember that unless you win the lottery (or have a fortune of your own), you can't save them all. Ron


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## hkusp9 (Sep 24, 2012)

rwoods said:


> These saws must have some sort of homing device built into them. Search forever to find one, you get it then they just start calling your name. Just remember that unless you win the lottery (or have a fortune of your own), you can't save them all. Ron



You're telling me. honestly, im in way over my head on the first one already and im still sinking money on it like its going out of style. If you remember, i was searching for one for a few weeks and located it on craigslist out of Oregon on craigslist in a lot of 14 other saws and the guy was asking $500 for all of them and was unwilling to break up the lot. I ended up having to buy all of the saws together, and arrange for shipping to get just this one. Most of the other saws are in various states of serious disrepair and some of them look so bad that i dont even want to try to mess with them. 

To make matters worse, i went from a 125c that i could have probably replaced a crank seal on and run, to one that im completely rebuilding and replacing EVERY consumable item on. The cost of that is adding up VERY quick. Also, I still have to pay to ship out the engine to a kind member who offered to replace the rings and seals and then pay for the work (not complainant about that part, just saying). 

So basically when its all over and done with, this $500 SP 125c is going to be a $1,000 SP 125c and half of my garage is now full with the rotting carcasses of 13 other poor beleaguered Mac saws that i cant save on my own and cant step over to get around either. ps: 

This one that coming today, im going to put some gas it in it and run the darned thing. If it doesnt explode or sound like its going to explode, its going to most likely stay the way it is... for a while....

of course i say that and then i look at that 200psi comp photo of the one with the squish band cut and think to myself, hey, it would be too hard to have it bored and ported......:bang:


EDIT: oh good lord help me, theres another one in the classifieds on here right now for 600 that looks to be in perfect running shape and still has the muffler cover intact. Somebody please go buy that thing out from under me. I dont even own any trees and i already have 2 of these beauties to contend with!


----------



## ozflea (Sep 24, 2012)

Now he goes and tells me this is dangerous after i tried this method last night so i could see the full effects of exploding gas man i look like Al Johnson ............... thanks ol bubby 

McBob.................. neally ex McBob of and i wont be needing a hair cut for quite a while


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## cpr (Sep 24, 2012)

10-4. I might have tried pumping it full of grease. My luck, I'd have blown the crack out of it and having to find new.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 24, 2012)

cpr said:


> 10-4. I might have tried pumping it full of grease. My luck, I'd have blown the crack out of it and having to find new.



Grease might work too, but it would be a whole hell of a lot of grease that you would have to pump in there and it would make an unholy mess that would probably be impossible to clean up. Plus you would still have to pressurize the grease like i did with the air compressor so the danger is still just as present. Also, mine was leaking at the two seams only, where the tank halves come together. 

If you have a crack thats not on the seams, and you try this method, you will probably blow out the side of your tank. I would not recommend trying this method if you have any problem other than leaking gas at the glued together seam. 

Finally, the reason i used water instead of grease or whatever other medium is that ive seen explosive breaching guys use water charges with C4 to make very precise controlled breaches on doors and walls and stuff. 

Apparently water will actually controll and direct the force of an explosive in a specific place and is great for actually cutting a hole in the center of a door or wall instead of just blowing the whole thing to bits. I figured if water works for that it would work for this.


----------



## cpr (Sep 24, 2012)

Seam leak? That's the problem my stocker had. 1194 worked as above. No explosions, though.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 24, 2012)

cpr said:


> Seam leak? That's the problem my stocker had. 1194 worked as above. *No explosions, though*.



That just means that you werent trying hard enough! :msp_biggrin:

I figure that the benefit of splitting and JB welding the tank is that i wont have anymore tank leaks again... Ever.


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 24, 2012)

Gologit said:


> opcorn: I truly hope that there aren't any newbies reading this thread that take any single thing you say seriously.



C'mon Bob, he put the legally bullet proof Disclaimer in his post before revealing that he was a hairline crack away from winning a Darwin Award.


----------



## ozflea (Sep 24, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> C'mon Bob, he put the legally bullet proof Disclaimer in his post before revealing that he was a hairline crack away from winning a Darwin Award.



Yeah but that was way after the fact i can see a law suit coming ................... loose lips sink ships .... *and i like this bit ....... Good luck, and remember if you blow yourself up dont come crying to me.*


----------



## Gologit (Sep 24, 2012)

Okay...you guys that work on Macs and know them well...was that post truly a dangerous bit of advice?
I'm no saw mechanic and a lot of the guys on here aren't. Would following his advice have the potential to harm a person trying the same thing?


----------



## cpr (Sep 24, 2012)

Well Bob, I gotta go with yes. That's why I gave up trying to conceive how to split them and went the 1194 + patience method on the 2 I patched. Both have held nicely for 6 months, including the 101 monster that shakes and bakes.


----------



## russhd1997 (Sep 24, 2012)

Gologit said:


> Okay...you guys that work on Macs and know them well...was that post truly a dangerous bit of advice?
> I'm no saw mechanic and a lot of the guys on here aren't. Would following his advice have the potential to harm a person trying the same thing?



:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 24, 2012)

Gologit said:


> Okay...you guys that work on Macs and know them well...was that post truly a dangerous bit of advice?
> I'm no saw mechanic and a lot of the guys on here aren't. Would following his advice have the potential to harm a person trying the same thing?



I don't think someone has to be a saw mechanic to know that introducing high pressure air into a sealed container of unknown structural integrity, that was designed to contain liquid at atmospheric pressures is a really bad idea that could have catastrophic results.
But then again I try to approach things with logic, and reason.

Yeah, I know. This post will get reported for being "negative"........blah.....blah.....blah.....


----------



## Steve NW WI (Sep 24, 2012)

Gologit said:


> Okay...you guys that work on Macs and know them well...was that post truly a dangerous bit of advice?
> I'm no saw mechanic and a lot of the guys on here aren't. Would following his advice have the potential to harm a person trying the same thing?



Bob, you don't need to be a McChanic to answer that. We test liquid tanks at work with 5 psi and that causes substantial bowing out of steel tanks. 125 is asking for it, plain and simple.


----------



## Scooterbum (Sep 24, 2012)

Gologit said:


> Okay...you guys that work on Macs and know them well...was that post truly a dangerous bit of advice?
> I'm no saw mechanic and a lot of the guys on here aren't. Would following his advice have the potential to harm a person trying the same thing?



Kinda like filling a tire with hair spray or starter fuid to seat it with a match.....................wait a minute hold my beer!!


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 24, 2012)

Scooterbum said:


> Kinda like filling a tire with hair spray or starter fuid to seat it with a match.....................wait a minute hold my beer, *while I put my thumb next the bomb.*



Fixed.


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 24, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Fixed.



Well thank goodness something in this thread has been "fixed" properly.:msp_wink:


----------



## leeha (Sep 24, 2012)

Gologit said:


> Okay...you guys that work on Macs and know them well...was that post truly a dangerous bit of advice?
> I'm no saw mechanic and a lot of the guys on here aren't. Would following his advice have the potential to harm a person trying the same thing?



Putting a 125 psi to something unknown to me is
very dangerous. Look what happens when a truck 
tire lets go that uses the old style split rim. And
they were only inflated to 90-100 psi. Many have 
died. If the glue in the Mac 125 tank was a bit 
stronger then whats the next weakest part. I'll
tell you what, I don't want to find out.




Lee


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## jropo (Sep 24, 2012)

View attachment 254121


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## watsonr (Sep 24, 2012)

Being a submarine sailor at one time, I can say that this is a dangerous idea. I know lots about pressure and 125psi even in water... although very accurate on how pressure works, that the load is spread around the tank... if something else besides the seam gives... you get an explosion! Like the cap, putting your finger over the cap was asking for trouble.

And I don't think that it actually ever got to 125psi, you may have had 125lb air to use, but internal tank pressure never made 125psi.

That math is 125psi x Sq inches of tank volume = An explosion that no cloth towel or vest would have contained and you actually put your thumb on the cap... 

The better idea is to fill the tank with water and put a cap on it with no relief valve in the cap and freeze it... it will split.


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 24, 2012)

watsonr said:


> Being a submarine sailor at one time, I can say that this is a dangerous idea. I know lots about pressure and 125psi even in water... although very accurate on how pressure works, that the load is spread around the tank... if something else besides the seam gives... you get an explosion! Like the cap, putting your finger over the cap was asking for trouble.
> 
> And I don't think that it actually ever got to 125psi, you may have had 125lb air to use, but internal tank pressure never made 125psi.
> 
> ...



Nice post Randy.


----------



## Brian13 (Sep 24, 2012)

Gologit said:


> Okay...you guys that work on Macs and know them well...was that post truly a dangerous bit of advice?
> I'm no saw mechanic and a lot of the guys on here aren't. Would following his advice have the potential to harm a person trying the same thing?





leeha said:


> Putting a 125 psi to something unknown to me is
> very dangerous. Look what happens when a truck
> tire lets go that uses the old style split rim. And
> they were only inflated to 90-100 psi. Many have
> ...



:agree2:

A little hidden corrosion on the inside of the tank and it could rupture there, and I have seen quite a bit of corrosion on the inside of old mag tanks. Tanks are too easy to come by to risk it.


----------



## watsonr (Sep 24, 2012)

leeha said:


> Putting a 125 psi to something unknown to me is
> very dangerous. Look what happens when a truck
> tire lets go that uses the old style split rim. And
> they were only inflated to 90-100 psi. Many have
> ...



I know of guys who have had there heads taken off by split rims, NO BS... there heads!


----------



## Gologit (Sep 24, 2012)

leeha said:


> Putting a 125 psi to something unknown to me is
> very dangerous. Look what happens when a truck
> tire lets go that uses the old style split rim. And
> they were only inflated to 90-100 psi. Many have
> ...



Thanks Lee. And thanks to the rest of you guys, too. The post will be deleted.


----------



## tolman_paul (Sep 24, 2012)

125 psi can certainly do some damage. A 2 3/8" dia circle has the area of ~4 sq in, and at 125 psi has 500# of force on it. Increase the area 4 fold over that and you have a ton of force working against that surface.

If you're going to pressurize something, you darn well better know if that something is rated for the pressure and you should give grave consideration about what can happen if it isn't.


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 24, 2012)

Gologit said:


> Thanks Lee. And thanks to the rest of you guys, too. The post will be deleted.



:msp_thumbsup::msp_thumbsup:


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 24, 2012)

Its a calculated risk guys. Im not telling you to try it yourself, and im not saying that its the safest thing in the world do to, but we're all supposed to be grown men here and we can all evaluate our own decisions before making them and take responsibility for the outcome. 

My tank had about a 2 inch long portion of the seam that was leaking. The inside of the tank looked to be in pretty good shape and i took a calculated guess that the pressure would start venting at that leak first. Sure enough it popped that side first and then i just jiggled the rest loose. 

The epoxy holding the tank together is about 50 years old and seemed brittle when I tested it with a razorblade. I took a gamble and it payed off. 

I got my second saw in today and it has a leak in the tank as well. However this leak is in the bottom corner of the tank and nowhere near the seam. On that tank, i will just be using the tank sealer and not the pressure method since it might be MORE risky on that tank.


----------



## watsonr (Sep 24, 2012)

The only thing that saved the OP is that the tank never made it to 125psi. The relief valve in the cap lifted before it built up any real pressure and the thumb job only got him a couple more pounds. Bet you it never made ten, bet it probably never made 5.

Straight air into the tank would have blown the cap off before it blew the seams... and in this case may have been just as dangerous... flying shrapnel in the form of razor sharp pieces of hard plastic. You would have never closed your eyes fast enough.

You did have on safety glasses, standing there... right next to the bomb? You may have taken a calculated risk in your opinion... hindsight say's that the risk you took may have been your last... say your prayers, the big man was on your side this time.


----------



## samdweezel05 (Sep 24, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Its a calculated risk guys. Im not telling you to try it yourself, and im not saying that its the safest thing in the world do to, but we're all supposed to be grown men here and we can all evaluate our own decisions before making them and take responsibility for the outcome.
> 
> My tank had about a 2 inch long portion of the seam that was leaking. The inside of the tank looked to be in pretty good shape and i took a calculated guess that the pressure would start venting at that leak first. Sure enough it popped that side first and then i just jiggled the rest loose.
> 
> ...



You couldn't put the flywheel back on the first time with out miss aligning the key way and wrecking the key, flywheel and crank. What makes you the one to decide if something is a "calculated risk"? You are a danger to all the other members reading this thread who don't know any better than to think that you know what your doing. It's too bad that you can't lock your self out of the forum.


----------



## Brian13 (Sep 24, 2012)

It was less of a calculated risk and more of luck. In theory it sounds like a great idea, bet there are too many variables to make that judgement. However the the problem is somebody else could come behind you read that not knowing any better and not be so lucky.


----------



## tolman_paul (Sep 24, 2012)

Just wondering, if you're not an engineer, how did you calculate the risk?


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 24, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> *Its a calculated risk guys. Im not telling you to try it yourself, and im not saying that its the safest thing in the world do to, but we're all supposed to be grown men here and we can all evaluate our own decisions before making them and take responsibility for the outcome. *
> My tank had about a 2 inch long portion of the seam that was leaking. The inside of the tank looked to be in pretty good shape and i took a calculated guess that the pressure would start venting at that leak first. Sure enough it popped that side first and then i just jiggled the rest loose.
> 
> The epoxy holding the tank together is about 50 years old and seemed brittle when I tested it with a razorblade. I took a gamble and it payed off.
> ...



Words of advice you'd do well to follow yourself, though after seeing you ignore so much advice others have given you i don't suppose you'd be one to follow your own either.



watsonr said:


> The only thing that saved the OP is that the tank never made it to 125psi. The relief valve in the cap lifted before it built up any real pressure and the thumb job only got him a couple more pounds. Bet you it never made ten, bet it probably never made 5.
> 
> Straight air into the tank would have blown the cap off before it blew the seams... and in this case may have been just as dangerous... flying shrapnel in the form of razor sharp pieces of hard plastic. You would have never closed your eyes fast enough.
> 
> *You did have on safety glasses, standing there... right next to the bomb*?



My money is on a stainless steel collander from his kitchen.........LOL!!!!


----------



## watsonr (Sep 24, 2012)

tolman_paul said:


> Just wondering, if you're not an engineer, how did you calculate the risk?



Calculated by "WAG".....


----------



## Gologit (Sep 24, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Its a calculated risk guys. Im not telling you to try it yourself, and im not saying that its the safest thing in the world do to, but we're all supposed to be grown men here and we can all evaluate our own decisions before making them and take responsibility for the outcome.
> 
> .
> 
> I took a gamble and it payed off.



You did something stupid, against the advice of people who know more than you and were honestly trying to help you.

You need to slow it down a notch and start listening and doing as you're advised. Soon.


----------



## Jim Timber (Sep 24, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Its a calculated risk guys. Im not telling you to try it yourself, and im not saying that its the safest thing in the world do to, but we're all supposed to be grown men here and we can all evaluate our own decisions before making them and take responsibility for the outcome.



You chose not to use your noggin when you "calculated" said risk. You got lucky. Ever seen what happens when a reservoir for an air compressor decides it's time for retirement before the owner? The lucky ones leak first.

The internet is a dangerous place. Some people don't know any better when they see other peoples stupid mistakes and use those as examples to follow. What you saw happen here is the responsible folks chiding you for doing something stupid, so that other's won't make the same stupid mistake.


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 24, 2012)

samdweezel05 said:


> You couldn't put the flywheel back on the first time with out miss aligning the key way and wrecking the key, flywheel and crank. What makes you the one to decide if something is a "calculated risk"? You are a danger to all the other members reading this thread who don't know any better than to think that you know what your doing. *It's too bad that you can't lock your self out of the forum*.



Just put a garage door on it, and he will.............


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 24, 2012)

tolman_paul said:


> Just wondering, if you're not an engineer, how did you calculate the risk?


----------



## naturelover (Sep 24, 2012)

I've used the above mentioned method on tires before.....

It does work. 

Anyway, use tire paste now, lots safer and works just as well, but slower. As for two piece rims, they are dangerous, they scared me way more than the above mentioned tire seating method. Good thing they went away from those, they were like a ticking time bomb.

Know of a guy that had a one-piece rimmed tire blow on him when he was filling it. Threw him up against the guardrail and hurt his back, luckily it didn't seriously injure him. 

An insurance agent here went out for a claim one time when an air compressor exploded in an attached garage. He said it blew the whole side out and half the roof off it!!!

I worry about mine sometimes now.

Anyways, maybe a "don't try this at home" disclaimer?

ETA: I've used that tank resealing stuff you get for metal ATV tanks with success on those tanks, wonder if it would be of any benefit here?


----------



## parrisw (Sep 24, 2012)

And this guy is a Cop? Don't you have to have common sense for that? I would imagine it is the first prerequisite.


----------



## Mastermind (Sep 24, 2012)

I'm back.........I couldn't stop watching.


----------



## watsonr (Sep 24, 2012)

Easy fella's.


----------



## andydodgegeek (Sep 24, 2012)

I feel safer when I am wearing my tinfoil hat.


----------



## Mastermind (Sep 24, 2012)

andydodgegeek said:


> I feel safer when I am wearing my tinfoil hat.


----------



## parrisw (Sep 24, 2012)

andydodgegeek said:


> I feel safer when I am wearing my tinfoil hat.



Ya, "we're puttin on da FOIL Coach"!!!


----------



## Mr. Bow Saw (Sep 25, 2012)

leeha said:


> Putting a 125 psi to something unknown to me is
> very dangerous. Look what happens when a truck
> tire lets go that uses the old style split rim. And
> they were only inflated to 90-100 psi. Many have
> ...



This guy found out the hard way.

<a href="http://forgifs.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://forgifs.com/gallery/d/204117-1/Vandal-slashes-tire-karma.gif?" alt="forgifs.com" /></a>


----------



## watsonr (Sep 25, 2012)

Like this??


----------



## Mastermind (Sep 25, 2012)

What a wonderfully informative thread. The site owner must be so proud. :msp_wink:


----------



## Justsaws (Sep 25, 2012)

hkusq9- during meal breaks myself and others used to use 125psi to shoot 3/8" x 8" long pieces of steel through 1/2" birch and pine plywood from about 15' away. Volume of contained pressure and how it is released plays a role in the destruction and as others have mentioned it is dangerous to do what you did. Ask your ram providing superior officer what happens if you lose a thumb or an eye, at home, playing with chainsaw parts. 

Next time dry the tank out completely, wash it out with soapy water at least 4 times, dry it out again completely and apply even low heat, then tap it apart with a wooden mallet and peg. It will take longer, but it is a safe and in terms of the parts being worked on it is a more controlled seperation. Do all of this in a well ventalated area using appropiate precautions.

Using pressure to break an epoxied seam is risky as the epoxy only needs to be slightly stronger than any other part being pressurized to produce a crack. The crack may not even show it's self until the part is reassembled and put back into use, vibrations make a tiny problem bigger.

In the grand scheme of things I would suggest that you treat rebuilding a chainsaw with the same reverance as rebuilding a firearm. The devil is in the details. If you do not know, ask, and wait for an answer. That flywheel you beat on with such abandon is spinning really really really fast, at CROTCH level. That tank you want to JBWeld is holding gas at CROTCH level, in front of a device that creates sparks and another that catches them.


----------



## DSS (Sep 25, 2012)

Mãstermiñd said:


> What a wonderfully informative thread. The site owner must be so proud. :msp_wink:



+1!!!!

I LOVE this ####ing thread!!Makes me look normal.:msp_wink:


----------



## Jeff Lary (Sep 25, 2012)

jropo said:


> View attachment 254121



Thats what I was thinking, is'nt that what is used in a motorcycle tank to repair it?


----------



## russhd1997 (Sep 25, 2012)

DSS said:


> +1!!!!
> 
> I LOVE this ####ing thread!!Makes me look normal.:msp_wink:



You aint normal! :msp_ohmy:


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 25, 2012)

Mãstermiñd said:


> What a wonderfully informative thread. The site owner must be so proud. :msp_wink:



You'd be proud to, how many threads allow you to buy a new Gulfstream?


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 25, 2012)

Has anybody else noticed that all the new members, that this amazing thread has brought in, keep getting banned?


----------



## DSS (Sep 25, 2012)

russhd1997 said:


> You aint normal! :msp_ohmy:



A fact I am well aware of my friend. But all this smashing and exploding makes me feel better.


----------



## jropo (Sep 25, 2012)

Jeff Lary said:


> Thats what I was thinking, is'nt that what is used in a motorcycle tank to repair it?



Yup, pretty much anything that has a steel tank.


----------



## Steve NW WI (Sep 25, 2012)

Pssst - hk, Bob's a bit subtle, but you might want to listen to what he says.



Gologit said:


> You did something stupid, against the advice of people who know more than you and were honestly trying to help you.
> 
> You need to slow it down a notch and start listening and doing as you're advised. *Soon*.


----------



## russhd1997 (Sep 25, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Has anybody else noticed that all the new members, that this amazing thread has brought in, keep getting banned?



Yes I have noticed! The short bus has made quite a few trips to camp lately. 



DSS said:


> A fact I am well aware of my friend. But all this smashing and exploding makes me feel better.



I like all the smashing and exploding and stuff too! :msp_smile:


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 25, 2012)

Excuse me, can you fellas tell me who I should forward my medical bills to? I tried separating the case halves of a saw following the advice posted in this thread, and the cap blew out, and ricocheted off of my house into my neighbors yard injuring their dog.


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 25, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> Excuse me, can you fellas tell me who I should forward my medical bills to? I tried separating the case halves of a saw following the advice posted in this thread, and the cap blew out, and ricocheted off of my house into my neighbors yard injuring their dog.



Obviously you weren't holding your thumb tight enough. :msp_thumbdn:


----------



## russhd1997 (Sep 25, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Obviously you weren't holding your thumb tight enough. :msp_thumbdn:



Reported!


----------



## Ambull (Sep 25, 2012)

To lighten things up, I am going to post my rebuilt SP125C. Runs good, and the tank doesn't leak.


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 25, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Obviously you weren't holding your thumb tight enough. :msp_thumbdn:



I couldn't get my thumbs in the correct position because my thumbs haven't returned to full range of motion after being electrocuted (see below).

Some dude posted up on another site how to connect a 3 wire stove to 4 wire 240v service, and apparently he was wrong.


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 25, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> I couldn't get my thumbs in the correct position because my thumbs haven't returned to full range of motion after being electrocuted (see below).
> 
> Some dude posted up on another site how to connect a 3 wire stove to 4 wire 240v service, and apparently he was wrong.



Oh, that's terrible. Were your socks blown off?


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 25, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Oh, that's terrible. Were your socks blown off?



No, but my Birkenstock's were ruined.


----------



## Sport Faller (Sep 25, 2012)

The OP reminds me of a man I knew when I was a pup who reloaded his own .270 Win. cartridges by simply filling the case to the brim with IMR 4227 and then "dumped a little off" for room for the bullet. Did his rifle ever explode: miraculously no it did not. Could it turn a rifle into a grenade for anyone else who was dumb enough to try it: yes it most certainly could.


----------



## Jwalker1911 (Sep 25, 2012)

Sport Faller said:


> The OP reminds me of a man I knew when I was a pup who reloaded his own .270 Win. cartridges by simply filling the case to the brim with IMR 4227 and then "dumped a little off" for room for the bullet. Did his rifle ever explode: miraculously no it did not. Could it turn a rifle into a grenade for anyone else who was dumb enough to try it: yes it most certainly could.



Everyone knows that only works on 30-06's.


----------



## Mastermind (Sep 25, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> No, but my Birkenstock's were ruined.



Did you broked your ankle? :msp_sneaky:


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 25, 2012)

Mãstermiñd said:


> Did you broked your ankle? :msp_sneaky:



Hey!! "I have a potty mouth"!! And your spindly ass getaway sticks.


----------



## Mastermind (Sep 25, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> Hey!! "I have a potty mouth"!! And your spindly ass getaway sticks.


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 25, 2012)

Mãstermiñd said:


>



*Reported* for being Ghey, and Ghey.


----------



## Mastermind (Sep 25, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> *Reported* for being Ghey, and Ghey.


----------



## Mastermind (Sep 25, 2012)




----------



## thomas1 (Sep 25, 2012)

He seguido las instrucciones sobre cómo eliminar un tanque de gas. lo volaron y las piezas que vuelan me wacked en la cabeza, dándome una conmoción cerebral. Ahora sólo puedo escribir en español, alguien puede ayudarme?


----------



## DSS (Sep 25, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> He seguido las instrucciones sobre cómo eliminar un tanque de gas. lo volaron y las piezas que vuelan me wacked en la cabeza, dándome una conmoción cerebral. Ahora sólo puedo escribir en español, alguien puede ayudarme?



Did you just call me a prick??:msp_confused:


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 25, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> He seguido las instrucciones sobre cómo eliminar un tanque de gas. lo volaron y las piezas que vuelan me wacked en la cabeza, dándome una conmoción cerebral. Ahora sólo puedo escribir en español, alguien puede ayudarme?



Tom said:

I followed the instructions on how to remove a gas tank. I flew and parts flying wacked me in the head, giving me a concussion. Now I can only write in Spanish, can someone help?


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 25, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> He seguido las instrucciones sobre cómo eliminar un tanque de gas. lo volaron y las piezas que vuelan me wacked en la cabeza, dándome una conmoción cerebral. Ahora sólo puedo escribir en español, alguien puede ayudarme?



Señor Tomas,
¿Cuánta presión de aire se utiliza?


----------



## Trx250r180 (Sep 25, 2012)

opcorn:


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 25, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> Señor Tomas,
> ¿Cuánta presión de aire se utiliza?



mucho, mi cabeza está llena de ella. ¿Crees que yo podría usar su horno para electrocutar a mí mismo de nuevo a Inglés?

Gracias, Juan.


----------



## Jim Timber (Sep 25, 2012)

No rep bullets left for you Tom, but that's comic genius right there!


----------



## Mastermind (Sep 25, 2012)

GFYs. :msp_biggrin:


----------



## cpr (Sep 25, 2012)

AARRRRR.
[video=youtube;YWPa8tFMQB8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWPa8tFMQB8&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]


----------



## cpr (Sep 25, 2012)

YYAAAARRRRRR.
[video=youtube;h9OCgmjRCPY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9OCgmjRCPY&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]


----------



## cpr (Sep 25, 2012)

BLAAARRRR.
[video=youtube;4Xkb6DSA7h4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Xkb6DSA7h4&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]


----------



## Ambull (Sep 25, 2012)

Booyough

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid230.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee274%2Fjmueller57%2Fchainsaw%2F003-8.mp4">

chainsaw :: 003-8.mp4 video by jmueller57 - Photobucket


----------



## Ambull (Sep 25, 2012)

Kapow!!!!

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid230.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee274%2Fjmueller57%2Fchainsaw%2F005-8.mp4">

chainsaw :: 005-8.mp4 video by jmueller57 - Photobucket


----------



## Mastermind (Sep 25, 2012)

I'm feeling so inadequate........


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 25, 2012)

cpr said:


> BLAAARRRR.
> [video=youtube;4Xkb6DSA7h4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Xkb6DSA7h4&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]



Nice videos! 

do you have a race chain on that thing or is that video all saw?


----------



## parrisw (Sep 25, 2012)

Mãstermiñd said:


> I'm feeling so inadequate........



And so you should with those chicken legs.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## Mastermind (Sep 25, 2012)

parrisw said:


> And so you should with those chicken legs.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:



Bastards. :msp_mad:


----------



## parrisw (Sep 26, 2012)

Mãstermiñd said:


> Bastards. :msp_mad:



Ha ha ha, sorry Randy you just left that way tooooo wide open.


----------



## Mastermind (Sep 26, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Ha ha ha, sorry Randy you just left that way tooooo wide open.



I reckon I did huh? :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## parrisw (Sep 26, 2012)

Mãstermiñd said:


> I reckon I did huh? :hmm3grin2orange:



LOL, YUP! You gotta get your licks in when you can EH!


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 26, 2012)

Ok, so the second SP125 that i got yesterday isnt running even though it has strong spark so i figured that the carb isnt pulling fuel since it was drained for shipment. I put a little mix in the carb and when i went to crank it over, the starter, which has been a little finicky lately, got stuck with the cord about halfway out. 

Well crap, 

So i took the starter off and took it apart and cleaned some of the gunk out of it and tried to rewind the spring and fit it back in there but its being a stone cold B%*ch! I must have messed with it for an hour out in the garage tonight. I got the spring wound up and in the housing a few times, but every time i got to pop it back in there the coils end up coming out of their stack and going one on top of another. 

I looked in my service manual and it doesnt seem to address how to wind these things up. 

I know that there has to be a simpler easier technique, and ive tried a few, but still have had no luck. 

Anybody willing to lend some advice or take a youtube video showing me how easy it is?


----------



## Jim Timber (Sep 26, 2012)

Did you try the battering ram?


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 26, 2012)

Jim Timber said:


> Did you try the battering ram?



Anybody actually wanna talk saws?


----------



## DSS (Sep 26, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Ok, so the second SP125 that i got yesterday isnt running even though it has strong spark so i figured that the carb isnt pulling fuel since it was drained for shipment. I put a little mix in the carb and when i went to crank it over, the starter, which has been a little finicky lately, got stuck with the cord about halfway out.
> 
> Well crap,
> 
> ...



I hate recoil springs, but I wind them up and put a set of needle nose vice grips on them to set them in place. Make sure it's exactly where its supposed to be before you unsnap them. And its still probably gonna take a few tries.


----------



## Eccentric (Sep 26, 2012)

I prefer to wind them into the housing. Seat the outside end, then slowly rotate the housing as you seat the spring a little bit at a time, working in towards the center. Work your way around the housing, seating the spring and holding it in with your thumbs. Go slow. When you're done, the spring will be seated, and your thumbs will be sore. Wear eye protection. You'll get a "sproing!" or two before you do it right. If it gets too frustrating, walk away from it for a spell. I do....


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 26, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> I prefer to wind them into the housing. Seat the outside end, then slowly rotate the housing as you seat the spring a little bit at a time, working in towards the center. Work your way around the housing, seating the spring and holding it in with your thumbs. Go slow. When you're done, the spring will be seated, and your thumbs will be sore. Wear eye protection. You'll get a "sproing!" or two before you do it right. If it gets too frustrating, walk away from it for a spell. I do....



Yep, i didnt get frustrated to the point that i had to walk away tonight, but i did reach a point where i realized that i wasnt going to blindly stumble upon a breakthrough or progress so i just set it down and walked away. 

Your method sounds like a winner and i will try that when i come back to it tomorrow. My other problem, is that it seems like theres some kind of friction in there between the ratched that grabs the starter pawls and the dish for the starter.... like there should be a washer or something in there to stabilize it and reduce friction but there isnt. 

Anyhow, im too tired to go through the IPL to get the right terms and figure it out now, going to bed, but I'll be sure to post the pics tomorrow when the spring comes loose and finds one of my eyeballs. :msp_tongue:


----------



## cpr (Sep 26, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Nice videos!
> 
> do you have a race chain on that thing or is that video all saw?



All saw. That video was round file Carlton skip. Don't own a race chain. I'm learning about square grind for it, though. Much faster than round.


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 26, 2012)

Mastermind © said:


> I'm feeling so inadequate........



¿has pensado en comprar una motosierra, para compensar?

tal vez destruir algo de valor va a mejorar su autoestima.


----------



## Sapo_feo (Sep 26, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Ok, so the second SP125 that i got yesterday isnt running even though it has strong spark so i figured that the carb isnt pulling fuel since it was drained for shipment. I put a little mix in the carb and when i went to crank it over, the starter, which has been a little finicky lately, got stuck with the cord about halfway out.
> 
> Well crap,
> 
> ...



I saw this a while ago and wondered if it worked like advertised. 

[video=youtube;bRdQ-Di4sts]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=bRdQ-Di4sts[/video]


----------



## wampum (Sep 26, 2012)

Sapo_feo said:


> I saw this a while ago and wondered if it worked like advertised.
> 
> [video=youtube;bRdQ-Di4sts]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=bRdQ-Di4sts[/video]






I remember years ago my first recoil spring took me well over an hour to rewind,now usually about a minute.That tool looks really neat,the only thing that I do not like about it(with out using it) is that I did not think of it.Looks like a great tool.


----------



## Chris J. (Sep 26, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Anybody actually wanna talk saws?




That's an interesting thought; are you trying rerail your own thread ?

BTW, I hate installing (attempting to install in my case) recoil springs.


----------



## Warped5 (Sep 26, 2012)

wampum said:


> I remember years ago my first recoil spring took me well over an hour to rewind,now usually about a minute.That tool looks really neat,the only thing that I do not like about it(with out using it) is that I did not think of it.Looks like a great tool.



That sure beats my board with the three finishing nails!
They got 'em on eBay right now!


----------



## sefh3 (Sep 26, 2012)

Do you have a posting on from the bay for one of those thingy's?


----------



## Warped5 (Sep 26, 2012)

sefh3 said:


> Do you have a posting on from the bay for one of those thingy's?



Sure do, Scott: *LINK*

... and the feedback he's gotten from buyers is pretty positive.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 26, 2012)

Warped5 said:


> Sure do, Scott: *LINK*
> 
> ... and the feedback he's gotten from buyers is pretty positive.



That thing does look really cool but im not sure that i want to swing the expense for something that i might only actually use twice.

Also, once i get the a spring figured out, any ideas on how to actually get the starter to operate smoothly and fluidly without getting hung up or making horrendous vibrating noises?


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 26, 2012)

sefh3 said:


> Do you have a posting on from the bay for one of those thingy's?



That sounds like a good idea too. Got any photos of it and how it interacts with or fits in the housing?


----------



## Majorpayne (Sep 26, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> That thing does look really cool but im not sure that i want to swing the expense for something that i might only actually use twice.



It is cheaper than a garage door.


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 26, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> That sounds like a good idea too. Got any photos of it and how it interacts with or fits in the housing?



Did you even watch the video in the "link"?


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 26, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> Did you even watch the video in the "link"?



I think something got messed up or i quoted the wrong post or something, i was asking for a photo of the carpenter nails in the board and how that interacted with the starter housing.


----------



## Warped5 (Sep 26, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> That thing does look really cool but im not sure that i want to swing the expense for something that i might only actually use twice.
> 
> *Also, once i get the a spring figured out, any ideas on how to actually get the starter to operate smoothly and fluidly without getting hung up or making horrendous vibrating noises?*



Before re-assembly, clean the spring REALLY well. Liquid Wrench makes a dry lube that leaves a white powder residue after the alcohol evaporates; spray the spring liberally after its back in place. Make sure you shake the can really well. Or, if you prefer, instead of using the LW product you can scrape some pencil lead on the spring.


----------



## cpr (Sep 26, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> That thing does look really cool but im not sure that i want to swing the expense for something that i might only actually use twice.
> 
> Also, once i get the a spring figured out, any ideas on how to actually get the starter to operate smoothly and fluidly without getting hung up or making horrendous vibrating noises?



Not sure what's causing a vibration. I usually put a little grease in with the spring and, once assembled, pull the rope out and spray Tri-Flow on it as it goes back in. Hasn't failed me yet anyhow.


----------



## ozflea (Sep 26, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> That thing does look really cool but im not sure that i want to swing the expense for something that i might only actually use twice.
> 
> Also, once i get the a spring figured out, any ideas on how to actually get the starter to operate smoothly and fluidly without getting hung up or making horrendous vibrating noises?



Maybe instead of being a supposive cheapscate you could invest in one i seen you bought the right puller for the flywheel so another tool to help with more than just one saw or small engine would be a clever move 
I'm buying one god know's how much frustration and sore fingers it will or would save on my behalf.

McBob.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 27, 2012)

ok, so the nail in the board trick worked great. I got the spring in the starter housing about a half dozen times, powdered graphited it, cleaned and graphite lubed, ect. 

Every time, i could get 3 or 4 pulls out of it to test it and then it would jam up again. Only thing that i can figure is that the spring is warped and is folding on top of itself. I think i just need to use a different spring. I the mean time Im going to put the starter from my 125c on the sp125 and see if i can figure out the fuel issues.


----------



## Eccentric (Sep 27, 2012)

If the spring is folding over itself then you probably wound it into the housing in the wrong direction...


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 27, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> If the spring is folding over itself then you probably wound it into the housing in the wrong direction...



Ive wound it in there in EVERY direction and tried everything, with no luck. Dont know what else to do at this point, its not totally broke, its just not reliable.

{edit to add}

Ok, so i may finally have it halfway reliable. Im going to throw it on the saw and see if i can work from there...


----------



## Sapo_feo (Sep 27, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Im going to put the starter from my 125c on the sp125 and see if i can figure out the fuel issues.



Sawking had an interesting way to bypass the fuel system

[video=youtube;22rAZcXbn8k]http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=UL22rAZcXbn8k&feature=player_detailpage&v=22rAZcXbn8k[/video]


----------



## rwoods (Sep 27, 2012)

It looks like a chainsaw IV. It seems to work fine. Ron


----------



## buzz sawyer (Sep 27, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> ok, so the nail in the board trick worked great. I got the spring in the starter housing about a half dozen times, powdered graphited it, cleaned and graphite lubed, ect.
> 
> Every time, i could get 3 or 4 pulls out of it to test it and then it would jam up again. Only thing that i can figure is that the spring is warped and is folding on top of itself. I think i just need to use a different spring. I the mean time Im going to put the starter from my 125c on the sp125 and see if i can figure out the fuel issues.



What size rope did you use - assuming you replaced the rope? How does the diameter of the rope compare to the slot width of the starter pulley? If too small diameter, the rope could be jamming.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 27, 2012)

buzz sawyer said:


> What size rope did you use - assuming you replaced the rope? How does the diameter of the rope compare to the slot width of the starter pulley? If too small diameter, the rope could be jamming.



Factory origonal rope and spring, im almost certain that its just the spring thats garbage.

I used the starter off my 125c on the 125 last night and got it started and running well.


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 28, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Factory origonal rope and spring, im almost certain that its just the spring thats garbage.
> 
> I used the starter off my 125c on the 125 last night and got it started and running well.



Any chance of a video?


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 28, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Any chance of a video?



Not that I really want to continue to encourage your presence in my thread, but sure, anything for you pal!

Soon as i get off work and home around 9pm I'll go out in the garage and crank it up for a minute. I should be reassembling some of the 125c that i repainted tonight too. The engine wont be done for a few more weeks, but im getting closer.

BTW thomas, why is your name completely whited out on this discussion?


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 28, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Not that I really want to continue to encourage your presence in my thread, but sure, anything for you pal!
> 
> Soon as i get off work and home around 9pm I'll go out in the garage and crank it up for a minute. I should be reassembling some of the 125c that i repainted tonight too. The engine wont be done for a few more weeks, but im getting closer.
> 
> BTW thomas, why is your name completely whited out on this discussion?



What do you mean whited out? It looks fine to me.


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 28, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Not that I really want to continue to encourage your presence in my thread, but sure, anything for you pal!
> 
> Soon as i get off work and home around 9pm I'll go out in the garage and crank it up for a minute. I should be reassembling some of the 125c that i repainted tonight too. The engine wont be done for a few more weeks, but im getting closer.
> 
> *BTW thomas, why is your name completely whited out on this discussion*?



Well, not only is Tom "kinda" tarded, but he also thinks he's "kinda" invisible.

It's his belief that he's a Superhero.

Just play along, and don't touch his ears, or he'll freakout.


----------



## Eccentric (Sep 28, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> Well, not only is Tom "kinda" tarded, but he also thinks he's "kinda" invisible.
> 
> It's his belief that he's a Superhero.
> 
> Just play along, and don't touch his ears, or he'll freakout.



Jon have you seen Tom's baseball?


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 28, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> Well, not only is Tom "kinda" tarded, but he also thinks he's "kinda" invisible.
> 
> It's his belief that he's a Superhero.
> 
> Just play along, and don't touch his ears, or he'll *freakout*.



[video=youtube; WsKPPL-j6kE]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WsKPPL-j6kE[/video]


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 28, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> Jon have you seen Tom's baseball?



"Hey, hey buddy. I know where your baseball is"

"Where?"

"that girl over there has it, except she doesn't call it a baseball, she calls it a weiner"









Franks and Beans!!!!


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 28, 2012)

Eccentric said:


> Jon have you seen Tom's baseball?



I don't recall Jon seeing my balls.


----------



## Jon1212 (Sep 28, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> I don't recall Jon seeing my balls.



No. However you make a daily ritual of showing people you're "nuts".


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 28, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> No. However you make a daily ritual of showing people you're "nuts".



I see what you did there.


----------



## DSS (Sep 28, 2012)




----------



## Gologit (Sep 28, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Not that I really want to continue to encourage your presence in my thread, but sure, anything for you pal!
> 
> Soon as i get off work and home around 9pm I'll go out in the garage and crank it up for a minute. I should be reassembling some of the 125c that i repainted tonight too. The engine wont be done for a few more weeks, but im getting closer.
> 
> BTW thomas, why is your name completely whited out on this discussion?





Well?


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 29, 2012)

Gologit said:


> Well?



im trying to download my super slow video right now. hold on one second.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 29, 2012)

Ok, so heres the unmolested unmodified 125 that i got running yesterday. Had to put the painted 125c starter on it since thats the only one that worked. But anyhow, here she is running.





ok, arboristsite is messed up somehow and wont imbed the actual video. Just click on the picture and follow it to my photobucket site where you can watch the video. I dont know whats going on with it tonight. Late at night both arboristsite and photobucket get messed up.


----------



## hkusp9 (Sep 29, 2012)

Also, I thought i had everything painted and pretty last night and them something went totally haywire and wrong. 

I painted everything with a self etching primer and let it sit for a few days. They i added two coats of yellow, then two coats of clearcoat. Somehow after i added the clearcoat the whole thing shrinked and wrinkled up all the way down to the magnesium. 















The black and a couple of other yellow parts came out perfect however. Any ideas of whats going on there?


----------



## Jim Timber (Sep 29, 2012)

They call it "lacquer check" for a reason.


----------



## Scooterbum (Sep 29, 2012)

Never put lacquer over enamel.Enamel has a lot longer cure time and outgasses. Time to strip.


----------



## buzz sawyer (Sep 29, 2012)

Too bad, but I learned the same way about 40 years ago. Use clear Polyurethane instead of lacquer. Put it on as the last two coats while the last enamel color coat is still tacky.

Since you have to do it again anyway, why not remove the knob this time?


----------



## watsonr (Sep 29, 2012)

Putting your fingers and hand near a running chainsaw bar is a bad idea, the thing could go lean and start to spin the chain before you ever figured out your fingers are gone.... and pull about 6" of starter rope out before you kill the saw. That big cer-chunk you hear as it dies is the starter engaging the pawls and stressing the starter and cord. 

Saw does sound pretty good when it's not rattling. Move the rubber tubing pieces to the bottom of the front handle, they prevent it from damage when you set in down and use a piece of cardboard or something to set it on... it'll eat the paint without some protection. Setting the saw directly on concrete is what causes white death.... of course over a period of time. I put all my saws on something, just not the concrete.


----------



## Majorpayne (Sep 29, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> Also, I thought i had everything painted and pretty last night and them something went totally haywire and wrong.
> 
> I painted everything with a self etching primer and let it sit for a few days. They i added two coats of yellow, then two coats of clearcoat. Somehow after i added the clearcoat the whole thing shrinked and wrinkled up all the way down to the magnesium.
> 
> ...



It will buff.


----------



## thomas1 (Sep 29, 2012)

watsonr said:


> Putting your fingers and hand near a running chainsaw bar is a bad idea, the thing could go lean and start to spin the chain before you ever figured out your fingers are gone.... and pull about 6" of starter rope out before you kill the saw. That big cer-chunk you hear as it dies is the starter engaging the pawls and stressing the starter and cord.
> 
> Saw does sound pretty good when it's not rattling. Move the rubber tubing pieces to the bottom of the front handle, they prevent it from damage when you set in down and use a piece of cardboard or something to set it on... it'll eat the paint without some protection. Setting the saw directly on concrete is what causes white death.... of course over a period of time. I put all my saws on something, just not the concrete.



Calculated risk.


----------



## jropo (Sep 29, 2012)

I had the same problem w/ Krylon clear.
Nothing like putting hours into sanding, primeing, and putting the color on and it turns out GREAT then to have to start all over because conflicting chemicals.:bang:


----------



## DSS (Oct 1, 2012)

What happened this thread? Was there an explosion I didn't hear about?


----------



## thomas1 (Oct 1, 2012)

Maybe everyone got banned from it? I know I can't post here anymore.


----------



## Jon1212 (Oct 1, 2012)

DSS said:


> What happened this thread? Was there an explosion I didn't hear about?



Yes there was an explosion of sorts that knocked everyone's socks off. Fortunately it was a "figurative" explosion, so those of us that prefer sandals were also able to claim being found sockless.


----------



## Jon1212 (Oct 1, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Maybe everyone got banned from it? I know I can't post here anymore.



Shoot Tom, being invisible like you are I didn't even know you were here........:msp_confused:


----------



## hkusp9 (Oct 3, 2012)

ok, so i took a break from the 125c for a little bit tonight. 

Emma, my German Shepard/Belgian Malinois mix who is normally very trustworthy and well behaved snaked my brand spanking new flywheel housing sawdust guard from the coffee table and chewed up all the plastic. $18 and it never even saw a saw before it got munched. :bang:

Anyhow, the 125c is probably going out sometime this week to have new rings and seals put in it by a respected member on here. 

In the meantime, somebody stole two UPS packages off my front porch today... One with Stihl 029 super parts in it from Baileys and one with a mobile for my baby due in december. I could get over the saw parts, but somebodies going to get caught for the baby package theft this week and go to jail. Spent a few hours tonight getting that set up. 

And also!!!

I messed with some of the other saws in the McCulloch collection that came with the 125c and actually got a few running. I got this CP55 running really nice with just a very small amount of work. 






and also this other thing. (see below) No clue what it is, and i need to turn up the low idle screw a little since it wants to stall if I dont give it about 1/8 throttle, and it also smokes like a MF'er.... Like, makes the garage look like its on fire from the outside smokes!

Do i need to put new rings in it? What does a massively smoking old saw mean? 






And finally, I messed with a D30 and cleaned out the tank and tested it for spark (good spark) and gave it a few pulls to check the compression (feels good) and im almost certain that i can make that one run as well with very little work. It does need a new fuel line from the outside of the tank to the carb, and the oiler button on the side of the oil tank is rusted up so that should be looked at too. Didnt bother to get pictures of this one but it looks to be in very good shape with not alot of use. I may snap some pics tomorrow. 

Anyhow, all in all it was a good day.


----------



## Chris J. (Oct 3, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> ...
> 
> Emma, my German Shepard/Belgian Malinois mix who is normally very trustworthy and well behaved snaked my brand spanking new flywheel housing sawdust guard from the coffee table and chewed up all the plastic. $18 and it never even saw a saw before it got munched. :bang:
> ...
> ...



We've had a lab/weimeriener (sp?) half grown pup, & later a black lab pup, and they were the most destructive dogs known to mankind. We lost count of the number of items those two chewed-up.

Sorry to read about the thefts. I had a Jonsereds 70E from an AS member delivered yesterday afternoon, fortunately I was home to receive it. I have come home to find packages left on my front porch. The shrubs along our porch hide most packages from being seen from the street, but a couple of times the drivers left packages standing where they could easily be seen from the street. Around here that's asking to have them stolen. One of those packages contained a nice 12 string guitar in a very decent case (my wife is the musician).


----------



## thomas1 (Oct 3, 2012)

Chris J. said:


> We've had a lab/weimeriener (sp?) half grown pup, & later a black lab pup, and they were the most destructive dogs known to mankind. We lost count of the number of items those two chewed-up.
> 
> Sorry to read about the thefts. I had a Jonsereds 70E from an AS member delivered yesterday afternoon, fortunately I was home to receive it. I have come home to find packages left on my front porch. The shrubs along our porch hide most packages from being seen from the street, but a couple of times the drivers left packages standing where they could easily be seen from the street. Around here that's asking to have them stolen. One of those packages contained a nice 12 string guitar in a very decent case (my wife is the musician).



Roger McGuinn had a 12 string guitar, it was like nothing I've ever heard.


----------



## Chris J. (Oct 3, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Roger McGuinn had a 12 string guitar, it was like nothing I've ever heard.



His electric 12s is a Rickenbacker, I'm not sure which model, Ric offers several models of elec 12s. I think early in his career his acoustic 12s was (is?) a Guild. 

My wife loves her 12s guitars. Although she much prefers acoustic guitar, she's been GASing (Guitar/Gear Acquisition Syndrome is the musician equivalent of CAD) for an electric Ric 12s.


----------



## Jwalker1911 (Oct 4, 2012)

hkusp9 said:


> ok, so i took a break from the 125c for a little bit tonight.
> 
> Emma, my German Shepard/Belgian Malinois mix who is normally very trustworthy and well behaved snaked my brand spanking new flywheel housing sawdust guard from the coffee table and chewed up all the plastic. $18 and it never even saw a saw before it got munched. :bang:
> 
> ...



Maybe your UPS man is an AS member and reads this thread.....poor bastard didnt have the heart to drop off anymore boxes......just a theory....could be wrong....but .....


----------



## Mastermind (Oct 4, 2012)

Jwalker1911 said:


> Maybe your UPS man is an AS member and reads this thread.....poor bastard didnt have the heart to drop off anymore boxes......just a theory....could be wrong....but .....



That's funny...........really.


----------



## thomas1 (Oct 10, 2012)

Any progress :chicken:?


----------



## Jwalker1911 (Oct 10, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Any progress :chicken:?



Yes I feel we have made a ton of progress thomas....you've finally come to terms with your sexuality and made a new friend along the way...all in all I'd say a fairly successful thread.


----------



## thomas1 (Oct 10, 2012)

Jwalker1911 said:


> Yes I feel we have made a ton of progress thomas....you've finally come to terms with your sexuality and made a new friend along the way...all in all I'd say a fairly successful thread.



I thought those were private conversations? Next you're going to tell me you're not really a trained therapist and those pics you sent me, with you and the dog and the 5 gallon bucket, weren't supposed to be for the general public?

You should really examine your priorities in life.


----------



## Jwalker1911 (Oct 10, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> I thought those were private conversations? Next you're going to tell me you're not really a trained therapist and those pics you sent me, with you and the dog and the 5 gallon bucket, weren't supposed to be for the general public?
> 
> You should really examine your priorities in life.



I thought I was typing in PM im really sorry.


----------



## thomas1 (Oct 10, 2012)

Jwalker1911 said:


> I thought I was typing in PM im really sorry.



No biggie, sometimes it's good to get things out in the open. Many breakthroughs have been made as a result of this thread. Most involved a battering ram and a crowbar, but some were actually helpful.


----------



## Jwalker1911 (Oct 10, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> No biggie, sometimes it's good to get things out in the open. Many breakthroughs have been made as a result of this thread. *Most involved a battering ram and a crowbar*, but some were actually helpful.



See above post about your sexuality.


----------



## DSS (Oct 10, 2012)

If this dude has to get a new foot, maybe we can do a package deal and get Randy some real legs. 

Just a thought...:msp_confused:


----------



## thomas1 (Oct 10, 2012)

DSS said:


> If this dude has to get a new foot, maybe we can do a package deal and get Randy some real legs.
> 
> Just a thought...:msp_confused:



He has real legs. Real skinny.


----------



## Ambull (Oct 10, 2012)

Back on topic, usually if a saw is smoking really bad, and won't idle, it is because the saw is getting too much gas. Running rich. If you can't clean it up by leaning it out, the metering needle is probably stuck open.


----------



## andydodgegeek (Oct 10, 2012)

Maybe you put the bar oil in the wrong hole. When the holes are close together it can be confusing and its not uncommon to put your oil in the wrong one. I would probably do a sniff test, take a good wiff of each hole and see which one smells gassy. Don't put your oil in the gassy hole.


----------



## Warped5 (Oct 10, 2012)

andydodgegeek said:


> Maybe you put the bar oil in the wrong hole. When the holes are close together it can be confusing and its not uncommon to put your oil in the wrong one. I would probably do a sniff test, take a good wiff of each hole and see which one smells gassy. Don't put your oil in the gassy hole.



Those are words to live by ... :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## thomas1 (Oct 10, 2012)

andydodgegeek said:


> Maybe you put the bar oil in the wrong hole. When the holes are close together it can be confusing and its not uncommon to put your oil in the wrong one. *I would probably do a sniff test, take a good wiff of each hole and see which one smells gassy. *Don't put your oil in the gassy hole.



Who didn't know that?


----------



## Sapo_feo (Oct 10, 2012)

The smoke may be from the fact the saw had been stored. The original owner may have thought ahead and gave it a few shots of oil in the cylinder. If you've checked for a bar oil leak and ruled out Ambull's suggestion run it for a few minutes and see if it clears up.


----------



## heimannm (Oct 10, 2012)

The big old saw is not a D-30, more like 1-40.

Smoking Mac's are normally due to bar oil in the crank case. Common on auto oiler versions when the pulse pump gasket leaks a little, also common on older saws when operating the manual oiler as there may be a passage from the oil tank to the crank case (Lubri-Mac on the real old models, leaking gaskets on "newer" saws that have an automatic oiler option even when it isn't used).

Mark


----------



## Mastermind (Oct 10, 2012)

DSS said:


> If this dude has to get a new foot, maybe we can do a package deal and get Randy some real legs.
> 
> Just a thought...:msp_confused:




How did I get sucked into this? :msp_mad:


----------



## DSS (Oct 10, 2012)

Mastermind © said:


> How did I get sucked into this? :msp_mad:



We're always thinking of ya brody. Just looking out for your best interests and stuff.


----------



## Mastermind (Oct 10, 2012)

DSS said:


> We're always thinking of ya brody. Just looking out for your best interests and stuff.



You are a true and dear friend Bovine Man. 

You need to hold up though......

[video=youtube;R-qPsbgQBa8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-qPsbgQBa8[/video]


----------



## thomas1 (Oct 10, 2012)

Umm, that clearly was not DSS. There were no nekkid wimmenz feelin' his innards and no snow on the ground.


----------



## DSS (Oct 10, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Umm, that clearly was not DSS. There were no nekkid wimmenz feelin' his innards and no snow on the ground.



Clearly wasn't Fredricksburg either, I didn't see one person who looked even mildly retarded. :msp_mellow:


----------



## thomas1 (Oct 10, 2012)

DSS said:


> Clearly wasn't Fredricksburg either, I didn't see one person who looked even mildly retarded. :msp_mellow:



Your lack of manners is unbelievable. We're you born in a barn?





Never mind.


----------



## DSS (Oct 10, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Your lack of manners is unbelievable.



Thank you Emily Post.


----------



## Jwalker1911 (Oct 10, 2012)

Seems to be more paying customers browsing this thread.


----------



## Jon1212 (Oct 10, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Your lack of manners is unbelievable. We're you born in a barn?
> 
> 
> Never mind.





DSS said:


> Thank you Emily Post.



Well Son of a #####!!! I always suspected ol' Tom was actually a kinda 'tarded woman, but I never would have thought his first name was really Emily............I'm shocked(like a 220v stove).


----------



## thomas1 (Oct 10, 2012)

Jon1212 said:


> Well Son of a #####!!! I always suspected ol' Tom was actually a kinda 'tarded woman, but I never would have thought his first name was really Emily............I'm shocked(like a 220v stove).



Do you have a piston for a Solo 603?


----------



## Jwalker1911 (Oct 10, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Do you have a piston for a Solo 603?



Talk to hkusp9......I seem to recall in another forum someone piston his feet.


----------



## thomas1 (Oct 10, 2012)

Jwalker1911 said:


> Talk to hkusp9......I seem to recall in another forum someone piston his feet.



I see what you did there. :msp_wink:


----------



## Jim Timber (Oct 11, 2012)

HK better come back or the powers that be might take away his sticky.


----------



## hkusp9 (Oct 11, 2012)

Jim Timber said:


> HK better come back or the powers that be might take away his sticky.



I didnt realize that this thread was even stickied any longer, also its obviously no longer about rebuilding a 125c, yall have seen to that.

At any rate, everything is torn down and cleaned and repainted, only thing left to do is get off my butt and send out the motor for new rings and seals and then i can put it back together. 

I got busy with work and life and have been putting it off but i will get it sent out in the next couple of days...


----------



## StihlNAlberta (Oct 25, 2012)

*Question*



hkusp9 said:


> I didnt realize that this thread was even stickied any longer, also its obviously no longer about rebuilding a 125c, yall have seen to that.
> 
> At any rate, everything is torn down and cleaned and repainted, only thing left to do is get off my butt and send out the motor for new rings and seals and then i can put it back together.
> 
> I got busy with work and life and have been putting it off but i will get it sent out in the next couple of days...



Hey I just was reading your post and am in the same boat. Just popped off the flywheel and ordered a condenser. Have new points wondering how you go about removing replacing and setting up the points correctly?


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## Jwalker1911 (Oct 25, 2012)

StihlNAlberta said:


> Hey I just was reading your post and am in the same boat. Just popped off the flywheel and ordered a condenser. Have new points wondering how you go about removing replacing and setting up the points correctly?



There are several people on here who know pretty much everything there is to know about old macs...run far far away from this thread and find them......seriously run....


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## StihlNAlberta (Oct 25, 2012)

Jwalker1911 said:


> There are several people on here who know pretty much everything there is to know about old macs...run far far away from this thread and find them......seriously run....



Yeah - maybe I'll start my own. Cheers .... LOL


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## samdweezel05 (Oct 25, 2012)

StihlNAlberta said:


> Yeah - maybe I'll start my own. Cheers .... LOL



Good choice.


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## Macman125 (Oct 27, 2012)

*bar*

Does anyone know where u can find a 28 or 32 inch bar for my cp125?


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## thomas1 (Oct 28, 2012)

Yes.


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## samdweezel05 (Oct 29, 2012)

thomas1 said:


> Yes.



One of the smartest things to be posted in this thread.


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## arrow13 (Nov 28, 2012)

*SP 125 C oil tank leak fix?*

I've got a SP125C that has a bad oil leak as mentioned in the first page of this thread. The oil comes out both bolt holes when the front mount was removed. The oil will also leak out when the mount is bolted tight. Any suggestions to seal these so I can fill the tank with oil and still remove them when needed?


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## buzz sawyer (Nov 28, 2012)

arrow13 said:


> I've got a SP125C that has a bad oil leak as mentioned in the first page of this thread. The oil comes out both bolt holes when the front mount was removed. The oil will also leak out when the mount is bolted tight. Any suggestions to seal these so I can fill the tank with oil and still remove them when needed?



How about installing two studs with sealant and use nuts to secure the front mount?


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## arrow13 (Nov 29, 2012)

*SP125C Oil Tank leak fix*



buzz sawyer said:


> How about installing two studs with sealant and use nuts to secure the front mount?



That's actually a good idea. Didn't think of it. Was wondering if this is a typical problem with these saws. I've done some searching through a lot of threads and haven't found anything yet that mentions this problem. My saw is not a beauty queen so making a change like this really won't hurt the looks any. Thanks!

Will


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## leeha (Nov 29, 2012)

I would recommend a new oil tank.
What size bolts are in there. Sounds 
like maybe larger or longer than 10-24.
The bolt bosses inside the tank are broken 
and thats why it leaks.




Lee


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## arrow13 (Nov 30, 2012)

leeha said:


> I would recommend a new oil tank.
> What size bolts are in there. Sounds
> like maybe larger or longer than 10-24.
> The bolt bosses inside the tank are broken
> ...



Thanks Lee for your input. I was wondering about that too in regards to the bolts being too long and busting through the inside of the tank. I'll measure the bolts and see if my parts list shows any difference for length. Then I'll decide which way I want to go with repairs or replacement of the tank.
Will


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## arrow13 (Dec 2, 2012)

*SP125C oil tank leak*



arrow13 said:


> Thanks Lee for your input. I was wondering about that too in regards to the bolts being too long and busting through the inside of the tank. I'll measure the bolts and see if my parts list shows any difference for length. Then I'll decide which way I want to go with repairs or replacement of the tank.
> Will



After a closer look inside my oil tank, I found the lower boss broken off, thus causing the oil to leak out. Apparently someone in the past turned the front mount bolt in too tight. Couldn't find the broken piece so it's been a while since that happened. The upper one is still solid. 
Has anyone ever tried to seal the inside with epoxy? I'm thinking of trying it once I get it cleaned, if that's possible.
Will


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## heimannm (Dec 2, 2012)

I have been successful making repairs to an oil tank (740) using JB weld. I cleaned it first with solvent, then carburetor cleaner, then some grinding, then carburetor cleaner again, holding up after a few years.

Mark


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## leeha (Dec 2, 2012)

arrow13, I would not repair that tank. There is alot
of strain on that front mount. Regardless of what Mark 
says, It's a different ball game than a 740. 740's don't
have that anti vib mounted to the side.
A good tank is not that hard to find. Contack axeman on
ebay. I bet he has them.




Lee


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## arrow13 (Dec 3, 2012)

*SP125C Oil Tank leak fix*



leeha said:


> arrow13, I would not repair that tank. There is alot
> of strain on that front mount. Regardless of what Mark
> says, It's a different ball game than a 740. 740's don't
> have that anti vib mounted to the side.
> ...



Thanks guys for more input. I'm going to look for another tank. Once you mentioned alot of strain, I'll stick on the side of caution. When I get this tank off, I'll take a real close look at the damaged area. It's in my nature to look at the details. This old saw appears to have been well used here in western WA and the top of the handle is bent back slightly. Perhaps it was dropped or fell and possibly caused the oil leak too. I've purchased from axeman before. I'll check with him for a tank.
On another note, I just pulled the clutch off and the bearings were shot. Time for a new one as the rest of it look pretty worn and sloppy.
Will


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## All Tree NW (Jan 19, 2013)

this whole sticky is hilarious.


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## arrow13 (Jan 20, 2013)

*SP125 C Oil Tank*



leeha said:


> arrow13, I would not repair that tank. There is alot
> of strain on that front mount. Regardless of what Mark
> says, It's a different ball game than a 740. 740's don't
> have that anti vib mounted to the side.
> ...



Lee, you were right. I got a nice tank with oiler and painted too. Axeman gave me the choice of with or without the oiler. Also got a nice clutch from him too.
I've got to get a fin welded on my saw before I can start getting it back together. Thanks again.
Will


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## leeha (Jan 20, 2013)

arrow13 said:


> Lee, you were right. I got a nice tank with oiler and painted too. Axeman gave me the choice of with or without the oiler. Also got a nice clutch from him too.
> I've got to get a fin welded on my saw before I can start getting it back together. Thanks again.
> Will



Your welcome.
Is it just one fin on the cylinder.
If so i wouldn't worry about it.
It will be just fine without it.





Lee


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## sachsmo (Jan 20, 2013)

How does the SP/CP compare to your favorite?


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## arrow13 (Jan 20, 2013)

leeha said:


> Your welcome.
> Is it just one fin on the cylinder.
> If so i wouldn't worry about it.
> It will be just fine without it.
> ...



It's the one fin that holds the heat/air shroud. When I tore this saw down, the top fin had bolts going through it with nuts as spacers to hold that top fin up for the shroud and top vibration mount to bolt to. The bolts had nuts on the bottom between lower fins. Hard to get a wrench on them but I got it. The set up worked apparently. Just thinking it would tidy up the saw a bit and make working on it a little easier in the future.


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## leeha (Jan 20, 2013)

That fin or mount i would most definately repair.
Thats the one that holds the whole top av mount.
It's aluminum so if it's good and clean you should
be able weld it or have it welded.





Lee


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## ozflea (Jan 20, 2013)

Best and strongest repair is forget the broken fin and fit a Mac 101B cylinder shroud as many have already done just need to drill and mount the av mount to the shroud.

McBob.


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## arrow13 (Jan 20, 2013)

leeha said:


> That fin or mount i would most definately repair.
> Thats the one that holds the whole top av mount.
> It's aluminum so if it's good and clean you should
> be able weld it or have it welded.
> ...



I've got a friend who's a very good welder for this. It's pretty clean metal. Thanks for clarifying the type of metal. I was thinking there was more magnesium in it vs. aluminum. That should make the repair easier.
Will


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## arrow13 (Jan 20, 2013)

*Top fin repair*



ozflea said:


> Best and strongest repair is forget the broken fin and fit a Mac 101B cylinder shroud as many have already done just need to drill and mount the av mount to the shroud.
> 
> McBob.



I didn't know anything about that type of repair. I'll look into it. Do you know if anyone has taken any photos in past posts that I could look at?
Will


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## ozflea (Jan 20, 2013)

arrow13 said:


> I didn't know anything about that type of repair. I'll look into it. Do you know if anyone has taken any photos in past posts that I could look at?
> Will



Just get the welder to be careful heating the top of the cylinder i have an SP125 here thats been welded and it concerns me


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## arrow13 (Jan 20, 2013)

*Fin repair*



ozflea said:


> Just get the welder to be careful heating the top of the cylinder i have an SP125 here thats been welded and it concerns me



OK, will do. Thanks ozflea for the additional advice. 
Is there a prefered type of aluminum rod or wire for this type of work?


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## leeha (Jan 20, 2013)

arrow13 said:


> OK, will do. Thanks ozflea for the additional advice.
> Is there a prefered type of aluminum rod or wire for this type of work?



The rod i would use is 5356.





Lee


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## arrow13 (Jan 20, 2013)

leeha said:


> The rod i would use is 5356.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks Lee. I'll share this info with my welder friend.
Will


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## FSburt (Oct 14, 2013)

Wow what a way to spend a few hours going through this whole thread. A soap opera that started out innocently enough then came some drama and the finale being a quiet end with all going their own way. And I just came on to see what I could learn about fixing a Mac 125c too.


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## buzz sawyer (Oct 14, 2013)

FSburt said:


> Wow what a way to spend a few hours going through this whole thread. A soap opera that started out innocently enough then came some drama and the finale being a quiet end with all going their own way. And I just came on to see what I could learn about fixing a Mac 125c too.



Did you find what you were looking for?


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