# Waste motor oil as bar oil



## maowwg (Aug 9, 2021)

So at the risk of starting a war…

And just for fun....

I can buy an OEM replacement bar for between $25 and $30 and often much cheaper on Facebook Marketplace. That bar would guide an 18 inch 62 drive link low profile 3/8 inch chain. This would fit about every Poulan and some of the Echos (my400) and goodness knows what else and cut bunches of firewood. These saws use a ton of oil pumping it out all over the place and leaking when not in use. BTW, If I buy an imported bar from Walmart, I’m at roughly $13.

A gallon of bar oil is somewhere between $10 and $15 depending upon what you get. 

So for the cost of 1 to 2 gallons of bar oil, you can replace a bar.

I’ve read in about a dozen places how horrible it is to use free waste motor oil as bar oil. The idea being it’s not as sticky and therefore doesn’t lubricate as well. Ok I get th argument. Probably makes sense for pro saws with expensive bars. 

Can someone convince me that it’s so much worse to use free waste oil that doing so would trash the bar before I hit the economic break even point?

When the consumable guide bar and a gallon of consumable bar oil cost so close to the same amount, everything’s disposable/consumable. Not that the Poulan isn’t also disposable, but what about the oil delivery system can possibly be harmed by motor oil? Can’t think of any issues there.


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## Huskybill (Aug 9, 2021)

Ok been there done that in the beginning. The oil system pumped waste oil no problem. I noticed chunks of the metal missing from the bar groove edges. The bar didn’t last long at all.
Look on line for new bar oil sales that offers free shipping.

Here’s how to buy bar oil,
Even cheaper place, https://www.ruralking.com/1-gallon-bar-and-chain-oil-10005954


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## OM617YOTA (Aug 9, 2021)

A significant amount of bar oil is aerosolized by the 60mph chain, and the operator winds up breathing it. That's the end of the discussion for me. No used engine oil in any saw I'm running.


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## Philbert (Aug 9, 2021)

Not just your bar and chain. Also your oil pump.

Philbert


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## Huskybill (Aug 9, 2021)

Sorry I’m very frugal when looking for deals, we might buy more gallons to get free shipping or cheaper shipping shop smart.


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## Bob Hedgecutter (Aug 9, 2021)

You own the gear, you are free to run what you want and explain it away any way you see clear to try and justify it.
I get to pull apart and repair a few saws a year that have suffered the used oil cheap out- repairs are never cheap, cleaning the crankcases is never fun.
I guess it would be easier to spot a black streak flinging off of the bar tip to check the oiler is working- that might be the one positive you could possibly take out of it.


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## Huskybill (Aug 9, 2021)

Pay for new bar and chain oil now or pay dearly later for repairs. At just $6+ a gallon that’s cheaper than using new quarts of motor oil.


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## Canyon Angler (Aug 9, 2021)

I've heard repair people say they won't touch a saw that's got drain oil in it...


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## capetrees (Aug 9, 2021)

maowwg said:


> So at the risk of starting a war…
> 
> And just for fun....
> 
> ...


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## ammoaddict (Aug 9, 2021)

maowwg said:


> So at the risk of starting a war…
> 
> And just for fun....
> 
> ...


I used a lot of it in my younger days when I was barely scraping by. I would strain it through an old funnel that had a fine mesh screen in it. The only problem I had with it was the oil tank ran out before the fuel tank. That saw is 35 years old now and the oil pump still works fine. I didn't use it all the time, just when I had to and I am not advocating it's use. Your best bet is what Bill said and look for bar oil on sale.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


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## Huskybill (Aug 9, 2021)

Oil leaks? Are Unacceptable fix it. I replace the rubber grommet on the filler caps if the leak is there.


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## Bwildered (Aug 9, 2021)

The thing with used engine oil is it has many carcinogenic compounds and elements that have been produced by the combustion process & wear of the internal engine components, most try to avoid ingestion or contact that sort of thing.


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 9, 2021)

So how many tank fulls of bar oil do you get out of a gallon?
What saw are you putting these cheap bars on and how are you wearing the bar out before the saw if it is a cheapo Poulan?
Just curious, because just using saws for some firewood cutting, a gallon will last me quite a while. With so many other expenses, chains, oil mix, fuel, files, etc. Bar oil isn't very high on my list of "expenditures"


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## sean donato (Aug 9, 2021)

My 2 cents, I won't run it. Makes a bloody mess for one, doesn't do a lot to protect the bar imo. My old man runs umo nearly exclusively and goes through bars like most through socks. He doesn't cut much wood any more so it always amazes me that he's got a new bar on every other year. Save my 390xp which got its bar bent in a tree all my saws either have original bars or are on their second bars. Normal maintenance and decent oil is what I've accredited to long bar life. Now if your truly getting bars for $20 a pop and you don't mind the black mess all over your saw then I guess I can't see the harm in it. 
Huskybill hit it on the head on both the oil account and leaks. Get decent oil in bulk when you can find it cheap, and fix any leaks. (Thanks for the lead on oil Bill!) You do have to realize some of the "leak" is simply oil draining out of the bar and off the case. Nothing you can do about that. But puddles under the saw are unacceptable. Something is amiss and needs fixed. I have noticed that if I crack the oil lid and let the pressure equalize before putting them up I have nearly no puddle under it during storage. Cleaning your saw off after use helps quite a bit ad well.


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 9, 2021)

Here is a question though:
Say you get up Sunday morning and are loading up for a half day of cutting up your neighbor's tree that fell over, but find out your bar oil bottle is empty, and you forgot to buy more. Is there another product you could use in a pinch to get you through the day?


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## sean donato (Aug 9, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> Here is a question though:
> Say you get up Sunday morning and are loading up for a half day of cutting up your neighbor's tree that fell over, but find out your bar oil bottle is empty, and you forgot to buy more. Is there another product you could use in a pinch to get you through the day?


30 weight and some STP or lucas mixed in. Seems to work ok. I'm pretty heavy with the lucas or STP and it's only as a last resort. Normally I'll just run and get a couple gallons. Typically I'm getting more when I'm down to an open gallon and 2 full gallons left.


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## Huskybill (Aug 9, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> Here is a question though:
> Say you get up Sunday morning and are loading up for a half day of cutting up your neighbor's tree that fell over, but find out your bar oil bottle is empty, and you forgot to buy more. Is there another product you could use in a pinch to get you through the day?


New 30wt motor oil or atf oil in a pinch. My tractors use 30wt oil. I learned to buy six gallons every so often I buy oil so I’m way ahead. Plus I give some to the boys. The husky 2100’s hold a qt of bar oil.


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## OM617YOTA (Aug 9, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> Here is a question though:
> Say you get up Sunday morning and are loading up for a half day of cutting up your neighbor's tree that fell over, but find out your bar oil bottle is empty, and you forgot to buy more. Is there another product you could use in a pinch to get you through the day?


Just about anything. My first choice alternate would be new motor oil, as I keep several gallons on hand.


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## Backyard Lumberjack (Aug 9, 2021)

say... i got me a 'just emptied' jug of Stihl bar lube... and as luck might have it.....  i also just changed out the oil in one of my diesel tractors... thinking i might maybe could possibly... have some free bar oil! ???.... or maybe some emergency stuff. ???


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## Backyard Lumberjack (Aug 9, 2021)




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## Backyard Lumberjack (Aug 9, 2021)

several hours later; fast forward - update:






any suggestions?


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## Backyard Lumberjack (Aug 9, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> Here is a question though:
> Say you get up Sunday morning *and are loading up for a half day of cutting up your neighbor's tree that fell over*, but find out your bar oil bottle is empty, and you forgot to buy more. Is there another product you could use in a pinch to get you through the day?


that's why i always buy two at a time.... 

then, i'd just have to go back home and get the other jug. 

........................................


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 9, 2021)

Backyard Lumberjack said:


> that's why i always buy two at a time....
> 
> then, i'd just have to go back home and get the other jug.


I have 3 half empty jugs. 
I misplaced the 1st 2 and just bought another.


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## sean donato (Aug 9, 2021)

Here's a link for mystik bar and chain oil, in stock with $7.00 shipping over $75.00 purchase. Pretty good deal right now. The link bill posted is pickup only and I don't live close enough to one lol.








Mystik 1 Gal Bar and Chain Oil - 663605002169 | Blain's Farm & Fleet


Get your Mystik 1 Gal Bar and Chain Oil - 663605002169 at Blain's Farm & Fleet. Buy online, choose delivery or in-store pickup. Great prices on Chainsaw Bar and Chain Oils.



www.farmandfleet.com


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## Backyard Lumberjack (Aug 9, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> I have 3 half empty jugs.
> I misplaced the 1st 2 and just bought another.


lol, know what you mean... i'd list some of the stuff i put here or there... just so i wouldn't loose it, but the list is so long I am sure it would bore you! 

_bu_t... just day before... i decided time for a new plug for one of my Echo's.... and so i pull it. first pull of plug. it was tight! read the #, i want only that plug...  and so write it down to order. and that is the last of that... piece a paper i have seen since!! go figure! and so... yesterday, i get to do it all over again... 

so it goes...

yes, know just what you mean!


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 9, 2021)

Backyard Lumberjack said:


> lol, know what you mean... i'd list some of the stuff i put here or there... just so i wouldn't loose it, but the list is so long I am sure it would bore you!
> 
> _bu_t... just day before... i decided time for a new plug for one of my Echo's.... and so i pull it. first pull of plug. it was tight! read the #, i want only that plug...  and so write it down to order. and that is the last of that... piece a paper i have seen since!! go figure! and so... yesterday, i get to do it all over again...
> 
> ...


I am terrible about ordering a part, getting it, setting it down because I'm busy, then finding it later and not remembering what that was for. 
I have started writing what it is for on the package as soon as I get it so I don't forget.


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## sean donato (Aug 9, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> I am terrible about ordering a part, getting it, setting it down because I'm busy, then finding it later and not remembering what that was for.
> I have started writing what it is for on the package as soon as I get it so I don't forget.


I have to do the same thing, or place all the parts in one box and label that.


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## Backyard Lumberjack (Aug 9, 2021)

sean donato said:


> Here's a link for mystik bar and chain oil, in stock with $7.00 shipping over $75.00 purchase. Pretty good deal right now. The link bill posted is pickup only and I don't live close enough to one lol.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


each to his own. as one poster stated... do as you want, it's your equipment. my take: i don't buy cheap bar oil, despite what it says on the label. TSC has some cheap stuff... even for my Echo's I buy Stihl bar lube. i just belly up and pay the price. then i know i got good stuff... it's kinda like  ! i can buy the cheap stuff... drink enuff and the effects still the same...  but, i prefer the good stuff! 

imo, cheaply priced bar lube is cheap lube. and usually much thinner that i prefer. sorta like some of that %^$#@ oil they sell at the convenience store. if that stuff is oil, i'll buy ya a jug of Stihl oil. once time few years back... ok, bit more than just a few... and i was going to change the oil in one of my trucks. so, at the auto parts store... i got me a case of their recycled oil. back when? well, a case then of pennzoil was less that $10/case!  i asked the counterguy about it...'well, we do sell a lot of it!" (little doubt in my mind who would buy it!) and i started to fill my oil pan... and stopped! cold!! if that p-water like stuff was oil... well... so i took it all back and got me a case of that $10 pennzoil! same counter, guy. i said, bringing back!! this don't look like oil to me!!! his reply:
_
"I don't blame you!"_


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## Backyard Lumberjack (Aug 9, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> I am terrible about ordering a part, getting it, setting it down because I'm busy, then finding it later and not remembering what that was for.
> I have started writing what it is for on the package as soon as I get it so I don't forget.


that, too! lol


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## OM617YOTA (Aug 9, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> I am terrible about ordering a part, getting it, setting it down because I'm busy, then finding it later and not remembering what that was for.
> I have started writing what it is for on the package as soon as I get it so I don't forget.


I have to do that with oil filters. I buy a pile of filters at a time, have a stack of them on the shelf, and want to make sure I have a filter for the vehicle I'm changing oil on "in stock" before I pull the old one off and need to make a run to a parts store mid oil change.


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 9, 2021)

Backyard Lumberjack said:


> that, too! lol


Carb kits are the worst.


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## Backyard Lumberjack (Aug 9, 2021)

maowwg said:


> So at the risk of starting a war…
> 
> And just for fun....
> 
> ...


hi mwg - over all, a pretty good thread! i even told the QB about it... she had a good 
better than a good cup a with donuts...



ok, only close....


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## OM617YOTA (Aug 9, 2021)

Our local BiMart has bar oil for $6/gal every so often. I keep a couple gallons on hand in addition to the one I'm working on emptying. I don't know what brand it is and don't care. I've yet to find something that doesn't work. Have run new/clean motor oil, vegetable oil, transmission fluid, etc and never had a bar and chain issue with any of it. Vegetable oil gummed up bad all over everything, so I won't run it anymore, but it lubed the bar and chain just fine.


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 9, 2021)

I've used Echo, Poulan, and TSC bar oils.
I can't see a difference, but I'm not a pro by any means.
Certainly cannot compare it to beer. Lol


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## Backyard Lumberjack (Aug 9, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> Carb kits are the worst.


haha! i just got one it... along with some primer bulbs for an Echo. didn't want to prime up week back when i went to cut some mesquite out on the FM frontage at my place. and just in case, it mite be pump related... i got a kit! put the primers on bench... but day or so later, found... by chance  the carb kit! i subscribe to the philosophy: keep looking, it's here! will be last place i look!! lol


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 9, 2021)

For what it is worth, HD has Powercare for $10 a gallon.


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 9, 2021)

I wouldn't think it would really make a difference unless you are running some long bars or milling.
Your typical 16-18" bars probably can oil with just about anything.


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## sean donato (Aug 9, 2021)

Backyard Lumberjack said:


> each to his own. as one poster stated... do as you want, it's your equipment. my take: i don't buy cheap bar oil, despite what it says on the label. TSC has some cheap stuff... even for my Echo's I buy Stihl bar lube. i just belly up and pay the price. then i know i got good stuff... it's kinda like  ! i can buy the cheap stuff... drink enuff and the effects still the same...  but, i prefer the good stuff!
> 
> imo, cheaply priced bar lube is cheap lube. and usually much thinner that i prefer. sorta like some of that %^$#@ oil they sell at the convenience store. if that stuff is oil, i'll buy ya a jug of Stihl oil. once time few years back... ok, bit more than just a few... and i was going to change the oil in one of my trucks. so, at the auto parts store... i got me a case of their recycled oil. back when? well, a case then of pennzoil was less that $10/case!  i asked the counterguy about it...'well, we do sell a lot of it!" (little doubt in my mind who would buy it!) and i started to fill my oil pan... and stopped! cold!! if that p-water like stuff was oil... well... so i took it all back and got me a case of that $10 pennzoil! same counter, guy. i said, bringing back!! this don't look like oil to me!!! his reply:
> 
> _"I don't blame you!"_


Sorry buddy I don't see the correlation here. Mystic is a well know oil supplier, of which I used on heavy equipment for years. If their bar oil is junk, so is the pennzoil you run in your truck. Engine oils have to meet API standards in the US. Bar oils are nearly all based off a 30 weight oil with a tackifier added in. I've seen zero evidence that a stihl labeled bottle protected a bar anybetter then a super tech brand. I'm not into paying for a name when it's getting drenched over the wood I'm cutting.


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## sean donato (Aug 9, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> I wouldn't think it would really make a difference unless you are running some long bars or milling.
> Your typical 16-18" bars probably can oil with just about anything.


Haven't burned up my 36" bar on the mill with just the saws oiler maxed out on the cheaper bar oil.
You know what I find really funny, years ago we had a similar debate but the cheap oil was around $3.00gal and the name brand stiff was like $5 or $6 a gal. Now the cheap stuff is $6 to $10gal and the name brand stuff is closer to $15gal. One hasn't changed, the rate the saw uses it and I sure hate spending money I don't have to.


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## Backyard Lumberjack (Aug 9, 2021)

OM617YOTA said:


> Our local BiMart has bar oil for $6/gal every so often. I keep a couple gallons on hand in addition to the one I'm working on emptying. I don't know what brand it is and don't care. I've yet to find something that doesn't work. Have run new/clean motor oil, vegetable oil, transmission fluid, etc and never had a bar and chain issue with any of it. Vegetable oil gummed up bad all over everything, so I won't run it anymore, but it lubed the bar and chain just fine.


well, i subscribe to the case that... in general, some lube is better than none! except for engine oil pans, as some usually is about as worthless as none! _**_ i also subscribe to the case that... a chain saw is an _*e*_*xtreme duty tool!* and ranks right up there with FOD on the deck of an aircraft carrier! and tip wheels help, but many bars are sliders. i have tried a mix of TSC bar lube and gear oil... did fine. but i prefer the good stuff. however, if i made my living cutting wood with a saw, i prob would be influenced by what the other lumberjacks were using...


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## Backyard Lumberjack (Aug 9, 2021)

sean donato said:


> Sorry buddy I don't see the correlation here. Mystic is a well know oil supplier, of which I used on heavy equipment for years. If their bar oil is junk, so is the pennzoil you run in your truck. Engine oils have to meet API standards in the US. Bar oils are nearly all based off a 30 weight oil with a tackifier added in. I've seen zero evidence that a stihl labeled bottle protected a bar anybetter then a super tech brand. I'm not into paying for a name when it's getting drenched over the wood I'm cutting.


thanks for the tip! i do like STP... i could maybe add it to my diesel bar lube bottles.... 

lubricity is the key... 

....... lubricity is the key 

...................lubricity is the key!!!


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 9, 2021)

Curious if the need for "better" oil has anything to do with the faster chain speeds of today's saws. Old school saws had a hell of a lot more grunt, but ran a good bit slower.


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## SimonHS (Aug 9, 2021)

Bwildered said:


> The thing with used engine oil is it has many carcinogenic compounds and elements that have been produced by the combustion process & wear of the internal engine components, most try to avoid ingestion or contact that sort of thing.


^^^^^This!

The cost is irrelevant compared to your health. Just shop around for the best bar oil deal you can find, and stock up when you see it on sale.


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## sean donato (Aug 9, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> Curious if the need for "better" oil has anything to do with the faster chain speeds of today's saws. Old school saws had a hell of a lot more grunt, but ran a good bit slower.


But are they all really faster? We've had high speeds for quite a long time. The 346xp has been a 14 to 15k rpm saw for years and even the bigger saws have been over the 10k mark for quite some time.


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 9, 2021)

Looking at pre 90s saws, the typical max RPM was sub 10k
Now the typical is 13,500.
Pretty big difference.


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## Philbert (Aug 9, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> Here is a question though:
> Say you get up Sunday morning and are loading up for a half day of cutting up your neighbor's tree that fell over, but find out your bar oil bottle is empty, and you forgot to buy more. Is there another product you could use in a pinch to get you through the day?




Just drain it out, and flush through some dino oil when you are done. It can harden up / polymerize over time.

30 weight motor oil is the alternative that saw manufacturers used to recommend.

Philbert


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## sean donato (Aug 9, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> Looking at pre 90s saws, the typical max RPM was sub 10k
> Now the typical is 13,500.
> Pretty big difference.


Yeah I'm in agreement, just were talking 20ish years at these chain speeds now, surly by now there's either been optimization of the oil or the manufacturers have decided what they have out there is adequate for the job.


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## OM617YOTA (Aug 9, 2021)

Backyard Lumberjack said:


> well, i subscribe to the case that... in general, some lube is better than none! except for engine oil pans, as some usually is about as worthless as none! _**_ i also subscribe to the case that... a chain saw is an _*e*_*xtreme duty tool!* and ranks right up there with FOD on the deck of an aircraft carrier! and tip wheels help, but many bars are sliders. i have tried a mix of TSC bar lube and gear oil... did fine. but i prefer the good stuff. however, if i made my living cutting wood with a saw, i prob would be influenced by what the other lumberjacks were using...
> 
> View attachment 923259


I'm a fan of the better stuff, when there's some ROI. I run Tru Fuel for a reason.

With bar oil, there isn't. The only difference is in my bank account, not for the bar and chain.


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 9, 2021)

Bar temps with various bar oils? 
Sounds like a job for Project Farm.


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 9, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> Bar temps with various bar oils?
> Sounds like a job for Project Farm.


Nm.
Already did it. Lol
Edit: thought so, but it was just chains. Not chain SAWS


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## sean donato (Aug 9, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> Nm.
> Already did it. Lol


I was just about to agree then saw your post


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## Huskybill (Aug 9, 2021)

They do offer an extra oil tank for milling.


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 9, 2021)

I put in a request to ProjectFarm. Lol


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## wcorey (Aug 9, 2021)

This thread begs the next question...
Can I run bar oil in my car...? ;^}
You know, in a pinch...
lol...


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 9, 2021)

wcorey said:


> This thread begs the next question...
> Can I run bar oil in my car...? ;^}
> You know, in a pinch...
> lol...


Project Farm DID answer that question.


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 9, 2021)




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## OM617YOTA (Aug 9, 2021)

I've burned bar oil as fuel in my Yotazilla. I keep my bar oil in a gas can, needed the can for something else suddenly and made do with what was available. Didn't want to burn much of it, no clue what the tackifier is and what it'll gum up. Half a gallon in a tank of diesel burned fine.


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## maowwg (Aug 9, 2021)

That’s an interesting point about breathing the oil. I’m sure there’s all kinds of oil in the air when you run a bar and chain at speed Had not thought of that. And if half burned oil is unhealthy it might not be good to put it in the air. 

But isn’t that what a 2 stroke does? Fill the air with burned and half burned oil?

Is the exhausted oil from a car engine worse than the exhaust oil from a 2 stroke?

Not trying to be a jerk. Serious question. Is car oil really that dirty/gross/dangerous? 

Full disclosure so folks don’t think I’m just baiting the discussion. I gotta flush cut a bunch of stumps and I’ve rebuilt a $25 Poulan 2550 to take that beating. Don’t expect the chains or the bar to fare well at all. Saw may not survive either. There will be grit and dirt and mess. So I got to thinking that clean oil would not make much difference in all that dirt and then I got to wondering what difference it makes with really cheap bars and chains....hence the post.


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 9, 2021)

You are basically talking about $1-2 of bar oil.
Why not just use the correct fluids?


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## Philbert (Aug 9, 2021)

maowwg said:


> I gotta flush cut a bunch of stumps and I’ve rebuilt a $25 Poulan 2550 to take that beating.


Let us know what you find out from your experiment. 

Philbert


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## OM617YOTA (Aug 9, 2021)

maowwg said:


> That’s an interesting point about breathing the oil. I’m sure there’s all kinds of oil in the air when you run a bar and chain at speed Had not thought of that. And if half burned oil is unhealthy it might not be good to put it in the air.
> 
> But isn’t that what a 2 stroke does? Fill the air with burned and half burned oil?
> 
> ...


Well, ain't none of it good, just degrees of how bad?

Burn oil and gasoline in your saw engine, it makes one trip through and it's gone. Yeah, you breathe some of it, which isn't good. This is also why I won't use leaded fuel, like some people do.

Now instead of running that oil and exhaust through the engine only once and breathing it, instead pull the contaminants out and start concentrating them into a fluid. Do that for thousands and thousands of miles, so you've got the contaminants from a few hundred gallons of gasoline concentrated into that fluid. Now take that fluid, aerosolize it, and breath it in. Ain't going to kill you, hell I've practically bathed in the stuff before, but it's definitely a whole different level of "isn't good". Why the hell would you ever do that on purpose?

Real bar oil is so cheap and so available, there's just zero reason to think this is a good idea. Pack your lunch instead of hitting the drive through window for one day, and you'll have the money to buy a gallon or two of bar oil.

I don't get why this keeps coming up.


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## cookies (Aug 9, 2021)

from newer cars I worry about the heavy metals in the exhaust fumes the cats give off and asbestos/metal powders in used auto trans fluid and metal particles and gasoline additives trapped in engine oil.
In a pinch new 80+ weight gear oil mixed with new engine oil works fine but mostly I just grab gallons of supertec on grocery runs. Its pretty darn tacky and thick like 40 or 50w since its always hot as hades here..The stihl and husky stuff sold around here is literally 2x the price or higher. Used on the 40 dollar laminated roller tip bar+ 3 chains deals I grabbed earlier this year the bars tend to be worn down in front of the tip 1/16 half way into wearing out the second chain. My Tsumura bars show 0 wear after 2+ chains. The saw tends to slowly drip that tacky oil out of the cover after about a week since I tend to store them almost level with the bar tip slightly elevated. In our mild winter I will Dilute it 20% with whatever ATF I have leftover laying around from a service, their all about 5w.


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## maowwg (Aug 9, 2021)

Philbert said:


> Let us know what you find out from your experiment.
> 
> Philbert


It will be a while. I have about 140 ash tree stumps of various heights and diameters.


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## maowwg (Aug 9, 2021)

OM617YOTA said:


> Well, ain't none of it good, just degrees of how bad?
> 
> Burn oil and gasoline in your saw engine, it makes one trip through and it's gone. Yeah, you breathe some of it, which isn't good. This is also why I won't use leaded fuel, like some people do.
> 
> ...


Good points. I can afford to avoid that


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## bwalker (Aug 10, 2021)

I've used Walmart Supertech for years with no negative results. It's cheap too.
Use oil is dirty, a known human carcinogen, doesn't work all that well, and contains acidic by products which my cause problems.
Same thing with guys that use gear oil. That stuff stinks to high heaven and costs more than proper bar oil.


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## Philbert (Aug 10, 2021)

Also, another reason why I don’t loan my chainsaws out to other people. 

Philbert


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## OM617YOTA (Aug 10, 2021)

Philbert said:


> Also, another reason why I don’t loan my chainsaws out to other people.
> 
> Philbert


You bet, got two saws I loan out to people, depending on their need. Here they are:






Amazon.com : 58cc Gas Chainsaws 18 Inch Bar Power Chain Saws, Gas Powered Chainsaw 2 Stroke Handed Petrol Gasoline Chain Saw for Cutting Wood Outdoor Garden Farm Home Use with Tool Kit : Patio, Lawn & Garden


Amazon.com : 58cc Gas Chainsaws 18 Inch Bar Power Chain Saws, Gas Powered Chainsaw 2 Stroke Handed Petrol Gasoline Chain Saw for Cutting Wood Outdoor Garden Farm Home Use with Tool Kit : Patio, Lawn & Garden



smile.amazon.com










Lawn & Garden Equipment Rentals - Tool Rental - The Home Depot


If your landscape is looking overgrown, consider a chainsaw, trimmer, blower or lawn mower rental from our tool and truck rental desk



www.homedepot.com


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## sean donato (Aug 10, 2021)

OM617YOTA said:


> You bet, got two saws I loan out to people, depending on their need. Here they are:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yep, exhausted the yard sale poulans, so I tell people I'll come cut for them, or go and rent a saw.


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## Mad Professor (Aug 10, 2021)

maowwg said:


> So at the risk of starting a war…
> 
> And just for fun....
> 
> ...



Use CCA pressure treat and rail ties for grilling too, saves money....


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## Trailsawyer (Aug 10, 2021)

Mad Professor said:


> Use CCA pressure treat and rail ties for grilling too, saves money....


I've seen people camping in parks that were burning pressure treated posts and railings in their camp/cooking fires.....


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## Bob Hedgecutter (Aug 10, 2021)

Mad Professor said:


> Use CCA pressure treat and rail ties for grilling too, saves money....



Knew a few guys that used to load and unload CCA pressure treatment plant tanks......... they are dead and buried now.


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## GeorgiaVol (Aug 10, 2021)

Trailsawyer said:


> I've seen people camping in parks that were burning pressure treated posts and railings in their camp/cooking fires.....


I have found that old tires burn for a really long time and pretty hot. Great for the old wood stove.


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## Huskybill (Aug 10, 2021)

Tires start fires good with some gas on them, lol


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## bwalker (Aug 10, 2021)

Bob Hedgecutter said:


> Knew a few guys that used to load and unload CCA pressure treatment plant tanks......... they are dead and buried now.


I've been exposed to enough carcinogens in my working career in mines, power plants and oil refineries. As a result I try to limit my exposure on my own time.


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## miller755 (Aug 11, 2021)

sean donato said:


> Sorry buddy I don't see the correlation here. Mystic is a well know oil supplier, of which I used on heavy equipment for years. If their bar oil is junk, so is the pennzoil you run in your truck. Engine oils have to meet API standards in the US. Bar oils are nearly all based off a 30 weight oil with a tackifier added in. I've seen zero evidence that a stihl labeled bottle protected a bar anybetter then a super tech brand. I'm not into paying for a name when it's getting drenched over the wood I'm cutting.


I like the mystik, it is what I would describe as medium weight, it has higher viscosity than Stihl winter grade, and lower viscosity than many standard bar oils. Alot of saws don't seem to pump the thicker oils very well. I find most saws oil well with the mystic. It is much cheaper than the Stihl oil.


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## ammoaddict (Aug 11, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> I have found that old tires burn for a really long time and pretty hot. Great for the old wood stove.


When I was young, we would go sledding and burn old tires to keep warm. We would be covered in black nasty soot. I can only imagine how much of that stuff we were breathing.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


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## blades (Aug 11, 2021)

if you want to mix something that is extremely sticky use machine way oil. 3 parts or 2 parts bar or 30 # oil to 1 part way oil. Way oil is for extreme pressure between sliding parts.I do not know what weight code it would be. This works well in very hot weather as all the various bar oils I have used get too dang thin in 80+ degee temps. Course working in cold weather requires going the other way a bit until the saw gets heated up. Atf is not a great choice as a lot of the time it does not mix well or settles back out when sitting for a fair bit of time. Never used Veggie oil- seen what happens when it dries out - like epoxy.( new diesels manuals even warn about biofuel use- really jams up the injectors.) I have used old motor and new in a pinch ,not because I am cheap, it's a 1+ hour trip to any supply store for me that would be open at those particular times , sometimes nothing is open.


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## maowwg (Aug 11, 2021)

blades said:


> if you want to mix something that is extremely sticky use machine way oil. 3 parts or 2 parts bar or 30 # oil to 1 part way oil. Way oil is for extreme pressure between sliding parts.I do not know what weight code it would be. This works well in very hot weather as all the various bar oils I have used get too dang thin in 80+ degee temps. Course working in cold weather requires going the other way a bit until the saw gets heated up. Atf is not a great choice as a lot of the time it does not mix well or settles back out when sitting for a fair bit of time. Never used Veggie oil- seen what happens when it dries out - like epoxy.( new diesels manuals even warn about biofuel use- really jams up the injectors.) I have used old motor and new in a pinch ,not because I am cheap, it's a 1+ hour trip to any supply store for me that would be open at those particular times , sometimes nothing is open.


Mixing oil to save $10 / gallon ain’t my thing, but that’s awesome input.


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## sean donato (Aug 11, 2021)

blades said:


> if you want to mix something that is extremely sticky use machine way oil. 3 parts or 2 parts bar or 30 # oil to 1 part way oil. Way oil is for extreme pressure between sliding parts.I do not know what weight code it would be. This works well in very hot weather as all the various bar oils I have used get too dang thin in 80+ degee temps. Course working in cold weather requires going the other way a bit until the saw gets heated up. Atf is not a great choice as a lot of the time it does not mix well or settles back out when sitting for a fair bit of time. Never used Veggie oil- seen what happens when it dries out - like epoxy.( new diesels manuals even warn about biofuel use- really jams up the injectors.) I have used old motor and new in a pinch ,not because I am cheap, it's a 1+ hour trip to any supply store for me that would be open at those particular times , sometimes nothing is open.


Last time I got some way oil it was close to $15.00 for 12oz bottle, I don't see how this is a good idea to run as bar oil. Even if your going for the protection aspect of it it's way more expensive then high end bar oil. Also it has an iso 68 weight grade. Beyond the cost, I would tend to agree it could make an excellent bar oil, very high in anti rust properties, tenaciously sticky and I don't think I've ever seen it gum up from sitting.


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## Bob Hedgecutter (Aug 11, 2021)

The only time I can remember using "waste" oil in my own personal saws, was a "right place, right time" kind of situation.
I just happened to be onsite at a dairy processing plant when an 11KVA transformer was being drained of its cooling/insulating oil and it was being replaced.
Long story short, I went home with a 44 gallon drum of some kind of mineral oil that was suitable as bar oil- VERY cheaply. Cannot remember if it cost me one, or two 24 packs of beer.


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## miller755 (Aug 11, 2021)

Bob Hedgecutter said:


> The only time I can remember using "waste" oil in my own personal saws, was a "right place, right time" kind of situation.
> I just happened to be onsite at a dairy processing plant when an 11KVA transformer was being drained of its cooling/insulating oil and it was being replaced.
> Long story short, I went home with a 44 gallon drum of some kind of mineral oil that was suitable as bar oil- VERY cheaply. Cannot remember if it cost me one, or two 24 packs of beer.


And they dodged a hazardous waste disposal fee.
Have you ever heard of PCB's....worse than used motor oil.


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## Bob Hedgecutter (Aug 11, 2021)

miller755 said:


> And they dodged a hazardous waste disposal fee.
> Have you ever heard of PCB's....worse than used motor oil.



Never claimed it was safe to use- said it was suitable. It was way back in the 1980's, people used to spray paint cars without respirators back then. Near everyone in blue collar trades smoked cigarettes. Catalytic converters were unheard of and your diesel trucks had to be belching black smoke to be making power. 
We did or played with a lot of things that were going to shorten your lifespan back then, many of us paid or are paying the price now- but it was the 1980's not the 2020's.


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## blades (Aug 11, 2021)

Heck, you whipper snappers from the 80's are pansies compared to us of the 40/50's era. I used to hear something similar from my parents, who were born apx 1919.


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## miller755 (Aug 11, 2021)

Bob Hedgecutter said:


> Never claimed it was safe to use- said it was suitable. It was way back in the 1980's, people used to spray paint cars without respirators back then. Near everyone in blue collar trades smoked cigarettes. Catalytic converters were unheard of and your diesel trucks had to be belching black smoke to be making power.
> We did or played with a lot of things that were going to shorten your lifespan back then, many of us paid or are paying the price now- but it was the 1980's not the 2020's.


I guess that's what i like about this site, no denying it, just admitting that you know better today.


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## Bob Hedgecutter (Aug 11, 2021)

blades said:


> Heck, you whipper snappers from the 80's are pansies compared to us of the 40/50's era. I used to hear something similar from my parents, who were born apx 1919.



Agree 100%, I was an "adult" back in the 80's and things older work colleagues did, or the stories they told of what they used to do shocked the heck out of us young fellas, but they were still there to tell those stories.


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## Bwildered (Aug 11, 2021)

maowwg said:


> That’s an interesting point about breathing the oil. I’m sure there’s all kinds of oil in the air when you run a bar and chain at speed Had not thought of that. And if half burned oil is unhealthy it might not be good to put it in the air.
> 
> But isn’t that what a 2 stroke does? Fill the air with burned and half burned oil?
> 
> ...


One is already subjecting themselves to engine combustion emissions when using a 2t saw, by using used engine oil it is just adding to the undesirable things to be ingested.


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## OM617YOTA (Aug 11, 2021)

Bob Hedgecutter said:


> Agree 100%, I was an "adult" back in the 80's and things older work colleagues did, or the stories they told of what they used to do shocked the heck out of us young fellas, but they were still there to tell those stories.


The ones who survived told those stories.....


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## bwalker (Aug 11, 2021)

blades said:


> if you want to mix something that is extremely sticky use machine way oil. 3 parts or 2 parts bar or 30 # oil to 1 part way oil. Way oil is for extreme pressure between sliding parts.I do not know what weight code it would be. This works well in very hot weather as all the various bar oils I have used get too dang thin in 80+ degee temps. Course working in cold weather requires going the other way a bit until the saw gets heated up. Atf is not a great choice as a lot of the time it does not mix well or settles back out when sitting for a fair bit of time. Never used Veggie oil- seen what happens when it dries out - like epoxy.( new diesels manuals even warn about biofuel use- really jams up the injectors.) I have used old motor and new in a pinch ,not because I am cheap, it's a 1+ hour trip to any supply store for me that would be open at those particular times , sometimes nothing is open.


Great way to spend more money for no gain whatsoever


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## bwalker (Aug 11, 2021)

Bwildered said:


> One is already subjecting themselves to engine combustion emissions when using a 2t saw, by using used engine oil it is just adding to the undesirable things to be ingested.


While breathing two stroke exhaust isn't a great thing at least gasoline no longer contains nasties like benzene,toluene and xylene.
Also strato charged engines have greatly reduced emmissions.


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## Dean-O (Aug 11, 2021)

As a mechanic who works on saws all day long I can honestly say that when I see used motor oil in a saw I just shake my head. It sucks because the saw is always filthy, the bar is always hammered and my bench is covered in used motor oil filth.
I always tell the customer that it’s not tacky like real bar oil and just flys off the bar and offers no protection from bar heating up to a million degrees. They just say oh my dad ran it that way his whole life 8 hours a day 7 days a week 365 days a year and has never had to replace a bar and saved $1000s of dollars by never buying bar oil………
I just say ok and move on. In fact we have been so busy lately that I haven’t even been mentioning it on the phone or in notes when discussing the repairs with customer.


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## czyhorse (Aug 12, 2021)

Bob Hedgecutter said:


> The only time I can remember using "waste" oil in my own personal saws, was a "right place, right time" kind of situation.
> I just happened to be onsite at a dairy processing plant when an 11KVA transformer was being drained of its cooling/insulating oil and it was being replaced.
> Long story short, I went home with a 44 gallon drum of some kind of mineral oil that was suitable as bar oil- VERY cheaply. Cannot remember if it cost me one, or two 24 packs of beer.


A lot of the oil in old transformers has PCBs in them. When we drain transformers the oil has to be tested and disposed of according to the results. Not trying to be that guy but I would not recommend contact with that unless you know for sure. Not to mention breathing the mist, spraying it around the woods, or burning it on your wood. Just saying.


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## Bob Hedgecutter (Aug 12, 2021)

czyhorse said:


> A lot of the oil in old transformers has PCBs in them. When we drain transformers the oil has to be tested and disposed of according to the results. Not trying to be that guy but I would not recommend contact with that unless you know for sure. Not to mention breathing the mist, spraying it around the woods, or burning it on your wood. Just saying.



Just saying- read my earlier reply to the same observation.


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## czyhorse (Aug 12, 2021)

Bob Hedgecutter said:


> Just saying- read my earlier reply to the same observation.


Sorry I was late to the party.


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## quantico (Aug 22, 2021)

My grandfather used old 30 wt car oil.. u got one of his old saws. I decided to use new 30 weight oil until i was old enough to figure out where they sold bar and chain oil. I have used real bar and chain oil for 40 years .. would use new car oil in a pinch. I guess i dont run saws that often that i consider buying a couple gallons of bar oil every year or two a big deal.


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## quantico (Aug 22, 2021)

Old car oil is not good for you.. you can make your own decisions ..


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## maowwg (Aug 22, 2021)

I'm not sure if I'm supposed to raise my hand and say "uncle" , but about 3 pages back I was convinced that breathing engine sludge accumulations wouldn't be worth saving $10 per gallon on bar oil. I got busy, so sorry I didn't respond. But, yeah, I'm not doing that. I may use up some old NEW motor oil in my electric Remington pole trimmer with the 10 inch bar just to clean off the shelves. But that doesn't even have an automatic oiler, so I can just give it a heavy dose in the name of achieving clean garage shelves.


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## The Shooters Apprentice (Aug 23, 2021)

My dad was a pro faller, and always ran used engine oil in his saws. I’ve done the same now for 20 years, and have never noticed excessive wear to bar or chains. As a matter of fact, I don’t think I’ve ever replaced a bar from being worn on the sides, only bad tips.


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## OM617YOTA (Aug 23, 2021)

Used oil won't hurt your bar and chain any. If it wasn't good enough for your bar and chain, it would have boat anchored the engine you drained it out of too. That plays zero part in why I refuse to run it.


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## bwalker (Aug 24, 2021)

OM617YOTA said:


> Used oil won't hurt your bar and chain any. If it wasn't good enough for your bar and chain, it would have boat anchored the engine you drained it out of too. That plays zero part in why I refuse to run it.


Exactly.
FWIW the chain is much softer than the bar rail. As such you won't prematurely wear the bar to a large extent. The tip sprocket runs on roller bearings, which require very minimal lube. About the only thing that kills them are dirt and encountering water or snow.
Breathing in aerisolized used oil is why I won't use drain oil. That and the mess and crap its contaminated with possibly corroding your cases and hurting the internal parts of your oiler.


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## windthrown (Sep 27, 2021)

Well, for you used oil for bar oil fans, my dad was one of those. He died of liver cancer at age 66. He never smoked either.

Used bar oil is not good for you, it is not good for your bar, it is not good for your oil pump, or for your saw, and it is not good for your chains. It is not good for anything, really. But go ahead and keep using it on your property, breathing it in and in your saws and getting all over yourselves and the environment that you live in. And good luck in the long run. Heavy metals and toxins from blowby gasses build up in your system over the long run. And your kids and your pets. And pretty much any other living things around y'all.

Me, I use soybean oil (labeled vegetable oil) in my saws. For you cheap ass people here, its all of $5 for a whole gallon at Wally world. While not as 'cheap' as "free" used engine oil, it is 1,000 times less toxic. Yes, one thousand times less toxic. No tacky stuff is in it, but you do not need it. Just crank up the oil pump in your saws and spray away. It will degrade naturally. If you spill it and the dog laps it up? No problem. If you get it on your clothes and the wife gets it on her hands doing the wash? No problem. Hell, you can drink the stuff. As for wear, I have seen next to none running soy oil on my bars and chains for the past 6 or 7 years now. The only issue is that the chains can become sticky after a few months of no use, and that takes dragging the chain in a log for a few seconds to get it rolling again, and that is the only downside I have seen. Did I mention the price? $5 a gallon. 

But carry on using one of the absolute worst products I can think of in your saws. Short of leaded gas. For what, to save a few dollars? Just do not cut on my woodland property.


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## Manitou (Sep 27, 2021)

Canyon Angler said:


> I've heard repair people say they won't touch a saw that's got drain oil in it...


They get given to me after the oil pump’s shotIt’s a winter-time endeavor. I go through them all, split the cases, part them out or re-build if time allows.


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## KASH (Sep 28, 2021)

Just my opinion but I think it is a far greater danger to eat the meat fruit and vegetables laden with man made chemicals from your local grocery store than it is to worry about a small amount of used oil in a chain saw.
I would sooner cover my body with used motor oil than having to spend a day in a major city now there is a chemical hell hole where no sane human being should ever be.
I used to be a good speller until I started using used oil in my chain saw.
Kash


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## Wow (Sep 28, 2021)

maowwg said:


> So at the risk of starting a war…
> 
> And just for fun....
> 
> ...


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## Wow (Sep 28, 2021)

This is one of "Those" questions..Democrat, Republican,, Saved, unsaved do you eat meat,, etc..So..Instead 0f saying YES or NO, I'm gonna speak like a Politician and saw, "Maybe".. this is MY opinion, others have a right to theirs..FIRST..at 74 years old I don't just try stuff without lots of experimenting..this is exactly what I do..My diesel tractor uses a VERY good oil and when I drain it that oil goes into a clean sealed container to be stored in the barn for a while..I've found that any dirt will settle on the bottom. I've strained this oil during testing and found that IF the oil sits in the barn out of sun light for several months I can slowly pour off the top part of the oil and It will be clean..The gunk on the bottom has another more private use..I've gone as far as mixing sand, water, and other junk into some oil and letting it settle out for a couple of months and running that dirty oil through a strainer and in my test it was clean..I used a very good filter that was so fine it took hours to drip through..I felt of the oil and tested it for any contaminants. I found NONE...BUT,, I did NOT stop there..STP was added to the used oil to create a better tackiness and a slicker feel..in fact after wiping the oil off my hands with a clean cloth my fingers were still slick like when you get silicon on them..I made a viscosity guage and compared my motor oil with STP to cheap Bar and Chain oil from TS. The stuff I created was better IMHO..So,, I added water and mixed it with a mechanical device and turned my B&C oil light chocolate brown.. Testing showed it to be a lubricating oil but it was left to settle for two months to see IF the moisture would evaporate to the top.. It did not.. Then that oil was placed in a cheap electric saw and tested.. Slow moving chain and it actually worked well..the STP in it was still tacky and the fee;l was good.. So it was used in my big Echo 590 with the stock bar that came on the saw..( that's my crappy bar) and I bucked a tree with it.. The bar stayed withing heat and lubricating limits..I used that oil up and never again added water.. Because I had used oil on hand and don't want to bother with other ways of using it the Chain Saw is perfect..now all I do is let it sit.. pour off the good stuff, mix that in a clean container with STP (test and add as needed) and pour the bottom stuff into my "Other" use junk oil..Because here on my farm there seems to always be plenty of used oil some is aging while some is being used..The only thing I do buy is STP. The cheap blue bottle and to make a gallon of B&C oil less than half a bottle of STP so it's cheap.. WHEN a saw is running IF it's slinging oil or not oiling you can hear the chain making a metallic sound.. Well,, I danged sure can.. In fact after years you kinda just know..So,, go to the Church of your choice, vote like you wish and take my story on a believe it or not,, basics..I know what I'm going to do. I did my home work and it works for me. I found a easy way to check oil for grit...This is it. Use a CLEAN flat piece of glass like window glass.. Put a few drops of the test oil on that glass laying flat and level..Use another piece of clean flat glass and lay it over the oil sample. Move the pieces of glass around on each other.. IF there is any grit you will find it..hear it, feel it.. If the oil is good the two pieces of glass will want to stick together. When I treat my oil and test it so far mine has been excellent..Yes, I don't mind testing my creations and I feel good about using my B&C oil.I'm not selling this.. I'm not giving it away.. I've got nothing to loose if everyone thinks badly of me..I am satisfied with my results. I've made my choice........your choice belongs to you..Good luck..


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## bwalker (Sep 28, 2021)

Wow said:


> This is one of "Those" questions..Democrat, Republican,, Saved, unsaved do you eat meat,, etc..So..Instead 0f saying YES or NO, I'm gonna speak like a Politician and saw, "Maybe".. this is MY opinion, others have a right to theirs..FIRST..at 74 years old I don't just try stuff without lots of experimenting..this is exactly what I do..My diesel tractor uses a VERY good oil and when I drain it that oil goes into a clean sealed container to be stored in the barn for a while..I've found that any dirt will settle on the bottom. I've strained this oil during testing and found that IF the oil sits in the barn out of sun light for several months I can slowly pour off the top part of the oil and It will be clean..The gunk on the bottom has another more private use..I've gone as far as mixing sand, water, and other junk into some oil and letting it settle out for a couple of months and running that dirty oil through a strainer and in my test it was clean..I used a very good filter that was so fine it took hours to drip through..I felt of the oil and tested it for any contaminants. I found NONE...BUT,, I did NOT stop there..STP was added to the used oil to create a better tackiness and a slicker feel..in fact after wiping the oil off my hands with a clean cloth my fingers were still slick like when you get silicon on them..I made a viscosity guage and compared my motor oil with STP to cheap Bar and Chain oil from TS. The stuff I created was better IMHO..So,, I added water and mixed it with a mechanical device and turned my B&C oil light chocolate brown.. Testing showed it to be a lubricating oil but it was left to settle for two months to see IF the moisture would evaporate to the top.. It did not.. Then that oil was placed in a cheap electric saw and tested.. Slow moving chain and it actually worked well..the STP in it was still tacky and the fee;l was good.. So it was used in my big Echo 590 with the stock bar that came on the saw..( that's my crappy bar) and I bucked a tree with it.. The bar stayed withing heat and lubricating limits..I used that oil up and never again added water.. Because I had used oil on hand and don't want to bother with other ways of using it the Chain Saw is perfect..now all I do is let it sit.. pour off the good stuff, mix that in a clean container with STP (test and add as needed) and pour the bottom stuff into my "Other" use junk oil..Because here on my farm there seems to always be plenty of used oil some is aging while some is being used..The only thing I do buy is STP. The cheap blue bottle and to make a gallon of B&C oil less than half a bottle of STP so it's cheap.. WHEN a saw is running IF it's slinging oil or not oiling you can hear the chain making a metallic sound.. Well,, I danged sure can.. In fact after years you kinda just know..So,, go to the Church of your choice, vote like you wish and take my story on a believe it or not,, basics..I know what I'm going to do. I did my home work and it works for me. I found a easy way to check oil for grit...This is it. Use a CLEAN flat piece of glass like window glass.. Put a few drops of the test oil on that glass laying flat and level..Use another piece of clean flat glass and lay it over the oil sample. Move the pieces of glass around on each other.. IF there is any grit you will find it..hear it, feel it.. If the oil is good the two pieces of glass will want to stick together. When I treat my oil and test it so far mine has been excellent..Yes, I don't mind testing my creations and I feel good about using my B&C oil.I'm not selling this.. I'm not giving it away.. I've got nothing to loose if everyone thinks badly of me..I am satisfied with my results. I've made my choice........your choice belongs to you..Good luck..


You do realize that the toxic byproducts and heavy metals found in motor oil by design are suspended in the oil? A little dirt and carbon are the least of your worries.


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## OM617YOTA (Sep 28, 2021)

bwalker said:


> You do realize that the toxic byproducts and heavy metals found in motor oil by design are suspended in the oil? A little dirt and carbon are the least of your worries.


You actually read all that?


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## Bob Hedgecutter (Sep 28, 2021)

bwalker said:


> You do realize that the toxic byproducts and heavy metals found in motor oil by design are suspended in the oil? A little dirt and carbon are the least of your worries.



While that might be true- the guy that posted that has gotten his three score and 10 under his belt and then some, lived through some turbulent times and decades where exposing oneself to carcinogenic compounds was a daily occurrence. Most the beef he consumed in the first half of his life was grass fed, was possibly drafted in the 60's, used to fill his gas tanks with leaded fuel and is approaching 3/4 of a century. He explains his choices and his methods, nowhere does he say anyone else should follow them.
Some people still smoke cigarettes, couple of decades back a whole lot more people did, some people never did- it's that whole personal choice thing described in the above post. Some folk like Stihl, some like Husqvarna, some don't give a fat rats backside as long as it runs well- personal choice.
What others choose to do may not always appear correct to our eyes, but it is their choice to do so if they see fit and are not endangering others whilst doing so.


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## GeorgiaVol (Sep 28, 2021)

Well said.
Just know that if you put pineapple on your pizza though, I'm gonna judge you.


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## bwalker (Sep 28, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> Well said.
> Just know that if you put pineapple on your pizza though, I'm gonna judge you.


Only a true savage would out pineapple on a pizza. Or a Canadian.


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## blades (Sep 29, 2021)

in answer to the veggie oil , chains get stiff when sitting awhile-, your oil pump & lines gets all gummed up as well. If you are running the saws all the time like a couple times a week its ok but if left to sit for an extended time it gets a bit pricey and time consuming to repair same.


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## OM617YOTA (Sep 29, 2021)

blades said:


> in answer to the veggie oil , chains get stiff when sitting awhile-, your oil pump & lines gets all gummed up as well. If you are running the saws all the time like a couple times a week its ok but if left to sit for an extended time it gets a bit pricey and time consuming to repair same.


This is why I quit using it. Never know when my saw is going to be sitting for months or maybe years. Not worth the trouble, went back to dino oil.

The veggie oil also left a scum on EVERYTHING that was a huge pain to clean.


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## GeorgiaVol (Sep 29, 2021)

I usually use heated bacon fat, but it always makes me hungry.


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## Philbert (Sep 29, 2021)

blades said:


> in answer to the veggie oil , chains get stiff when sitting awhile-, your oil pump & lines gets all gummed up as well. If you are running the saws all the time like a couple times a week its ok but if left to sit for an extended time it gets a bit pricey and time consuming to repair same.



Unless they are Italian saws, like Efco. Then you just run a little bit of balsamic vinegar, and some basil or oregano in with the oil . . . 

Philbert


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## GeorgiaVol (Sep 29, 2021)

Anyone try lard?
Rednecks claim it is good for lubrication.


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## Bob Hedgecutter (Sep 29, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> Anyone try lard?
> Rednecks claim it is good for lubrication.



And if that don't work, ya just tar n feather it, thens ya throw it in the briar patch!


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## Wood Doctor (Sep 29, 2021)

I knew three guys who lived near a restaurant that cooked lots of french fries and fried chicken. They collected all their waste cooking oil and used it in their chain saws regularly. One of them liked it when the bar got hot and smoked the cooking oil because the smell made him salivate.


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## ammoaddict (Sep 29, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> Anyone try lard?
> Rednecks claim it is good for lubrication.


I remember my grandma making lard when I was growing up. That woman sure could cook. She made the best biscuits I have ever eaten.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


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## Wood Doctor (Sep 29, 2021)

ammoaddict said:


> I remember my grandma making lard when I was growing up. That woman sure could cook. She made the best biscuits I have ever eaten.
> 
> Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


One of my good buddies used to cook with lard because his mom did. He stopped doing that after his blocked artery almost shut off his heart and required a stint to keep him alive.


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## Ronaldo (Sep 29, 2021)

Nothing better than lard for frying fish and chicken. Makes the best pie crust too.


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## Yukon Stihl (Sep 30, 2021)

Growing up in the 70's in the Bush on a remote Highway
My Mom and Dad owned a Lodge
Somedays the take for the day would be $0 .25 for someones coffee.
They had to produce their own power with a Whitty power plant.Huge 1 cylinder with big iron flywheels.
Plus heat all the buildings with wood
My dad had a barrel with multiple layers of drywall about a foot from the bottom and a valve under the layers of drywall.
The old oil from oil changes went in the top and chain oil came out of the tap.Sometimes the oil out of the tap would be used in barley running vehicles,like the ones given to me to play with.
They used 25-50 cords of wood a year,had a multitude of saws that my Dad would take to go cut wood,then repair that night to go cut wood again.
My Mom bought my Dad a Stihl 031 for Fathers day one year.After that he didn't have to work on saws and rarely took any others with him.
Us kids were feed ,kept safe and taught how to survive in life.Learning how to reuse and repurpose stuff was a must for them,which us kids learned for the life ahead.
I still use waste oil,but i have a furnace that burns it in my shop.


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## windthrown (Oct 1, 2021)

One other YUGE issue with using motor oil as bar oil (used ot new) to point out is that it is full of detergent. Bar oil is ND or non detergent. One factor that makes bar oil better than most motor oil. The idea being that you want the oil to stay on the bar for a while to do its job and not fling off due to reduced friction of the detergent. Counter productive to a tackifier. If you have to use motor oil, use new ND 30 (ND = non detergent) and it will be a lot better. That is what we used back in the old days in the big old MAC saws. I know a lot of people here do not give a shyte, but there is the added issue of dumping detergent into the environment. Lest you fill your environment with more suds that it does not need. Living and cutting in the Cascades and coast ranges from north Oregon to central California, I have seen many streams and creeks foam up with suds. Many in places were only logging occurs, and nothing else.


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## windthrown (Oct 1, 2021)

Wood Doctor said:


> One of my good buddies used to cook with lard because his mom did. He stopped doing that after his blocked artery almost shut off his heart and required a stint to keep him alive.


Eating saturated fat like lard actually has nothing to do with blocked arteries. Quite the opposite, really. Its a complete myth that fat causes heart disease. I know, its against the paradigm of 'modern' medicine these days, and many doctors still do not agree, but a growing number of doctors (particularly kidney specialists) are realizing this after many years of research. The so called modern diet of low fat and high sugar and refined carbs has led to high rates of insulin resistance, which causes obesity, heart disease, diabetes, kidney disease, and even dementia. Yeah, I can hear you all screaming already. But its an emerging paradigm that is replacing the old one. I flipped to a high fat low carb diet (with a lot of bacon, lard, butter, cheese, etc) and I lost 20 pounds in less than 2 months. I do not snack or crave carbs any more. I have kept the weight off since changing over to a low carb, high fat diet. I do not eat the candy, soda pop, cake or pie any more. I eat a lot of eggs. Yes, they are supposed to be bad, but in fact they are good. 

There is an old saying in Russia that you need to eat fat to lose fat. Which is actually correct. When you eat sugar and refined carbs (which you rapidly convert to sugar) your body responds by producing insulin. When you have high insulin levels, you cannot (yes, CANNOT) burn fat. Insulin not only prevents you from burning fat, it forces you to store fat and make you even fatter. After eating lots of carbs and sugar, your body becomes more resistant to insulin. Then you start craving more food, particularly carbs and sugar, and you gain more weight because you cannot burn the fat off. It becomes a viscous cycle. People are literally starving while they stuff their faces with carbs and sugar and they get fatter and fatter. When you eat a low carb diet, your insulin levels remain low, and when insulin levels are low, you can burn off fat. 

Yes, the commercial food industry has everyone convinced that consuming Coca Cola, Twinkies, Mars bars, pies, fruit loops, pizza, pasta, and bread are all great stuff. The FDA and USDA have their food pyramids with low fat and high carbs, and most grocery isles are full of high carbs and sugar laden foods. Its similar to the days when the tobacco industry convinced people that smoking cigarettes was good for you, and 4 out of 5 doctors recommended smoking Winstons. But they are simply wrong. Get off the sugar and high carb diet and you will do yourself a great favor. I can tell you that it is not easy though. Sugar is very addictive and it is a drug like no other. Another way to reduce your insulin resistance without giving up carbs is to only eat in a 8-10 hour window every other day. That will force you to burn up your carb and sugar stores (glycogen) and lower your insulin levels for 6-8 hours a day and then you will burn the fat off. Eating all the time causes your insulin levels to remain high. The idea of 4th meal (or 5th and 6th meals) and snaking all the time just causes you to want to eat more and gain more weight. Another vicious cycle. 

There is much misinformation out there designed to keep you on a high carb diet. But there is emerging evidence that a higher fat lower carb diet is the key to a better life. As there is about not constantly snacking. If youwant to know more about low carb and time restricted diets, I would recommend that you watch anything by Jason Fung MD (a kidney specialist) like this one:


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## Wood Doctor (Oct 1, 2021)

Bottom line: "Get off the sugar and high carb diet and you will do yourself a great favor." That includes high sugar soft drinks that people over consume, not realizing how many teaspoons of sugar are in just one bottle. Diabetes is the real problem here. Once diabetes arrives, you will have severe health problems on several fronts.


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## GeorgiaVol (Oct 1, 2021)

And for goodness sake, drink water.


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## Bob Hedgecutter (Oct 1, 2021)

And fibre- you need fibre.
Trees have fibre, trees get cut down and cut up with chainsaws......
And we are back!


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## Wood Doctor (Oct 1, 2021)

I believe this thread wandered way off base. Could be because bar oil prices are through the roof these days. Thanks, Joe.


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## KASH (Oct 1, 2021)

A couple of years ago it was dont eat butter n ow its ok they tell you to eat from the three food groups .the Eskimo people were the healthiest people in the world until the white man introduced them to refined sugar.What did our Eskimo eat
meat fat and blubber and some fish.Now you tell me where are the green vegetables and yellow vegetables and salads.
Kash


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## farmguywithasaw (Oct 2, 2021)

KASH said:


> A couple of years ago it was dont eat butter n ow its ok they tell you to eat from the three food groups .the Eskimo people were the healthiest people in the world until the white man introduced them to refined sugar.What did our Eskimo eat
> meat fat and blubber and some fish.Now you tell me where are the green vegetables and yellow vegetables and salads.
> Kash


They also walked for miles and miles to catch said seal and had to build shelter extra


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## farmguywithasaw (Oct 2, 2021)

As for used oil it’s a nope from me


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## blades (Oct 2, 2021)

still need some sort of veggie and fruit to balance things a bit. beets-garlic-strawberries, & someothers are helpful in reducing high blood pressure. raw vegies are a bit better than processed ones. Rice- Just about all kinds, some worse than others, is loaded with arsenic- better choices out there in lew of. corn syrup is added to all kinds of processed stuff, dang stuff is sugar just another form than processed cane.


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## sb47 (Oct 2, 2021)

I have been using waste oil for many years as bar oil with absolutely no issues what so ever. I do steer clear of the real dirty black oil and stick with oil that a little cleaner.
I do use some cheese cloth to strain out any buggers that might be in it before I use it.
I do it for the same reason. The cost of using brand new bar oil is way more expensive then a new bar. I just crank my oil pump to full blast and let'er rip.


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## newforest (Oct 3, 2021)

Had to skip over some pages but just wanted to note that my favorite solution to the “what bar oil in a pinch” dilemma is to try to always be living and working in places where the nearest friendly local gas stations keep bar oil on hand as a routine item.


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## bwalker (Oct 3, 2021)

windthrown said:


> One other YUGE issue with using motor oil as bar oil (used ot new) to point out is that it is full of detergent. Bar oil is ND or non detergent. One factor that makes bar oil better than most motor oil. The idea being that you want the oil to stay on the bar for a while to do its job and not fling off due to reduced friction of the detergent. Counter productive to a tackifier. If you have to use motor oil, use new ND 30 (ND = non detergent) and it will be a lot better. That is what we used back in the old days in the big old MAC saws. I know a lot of people here do not give a shyte, but there is the added issue of dumping detergent into the environment. Lest you fill your environment with more suds that it does not need. Living and cutting in the Cascades and coast ranges from north Oregon to central California, I have seen many streams and creeks foam up with suds. Many in places were only logging occurs, and nothing else.


The type of detergents found in motor oil are not the type you put in your washing machine. They really don't have any effects on oil sling off the bar or any other bad effect for that matter.
The reason drain or motor oil sling of the chain easier is due to viscosity and the fact motor oil doesn't have a tac additive.


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## Skippydiesel (Oct 4, 2021)

For 30 years, I used the EPX 90 (not multigrade) + a trace of molybdenum (moly slip) as bar oil. I saved the oil from my 4 x4 transmission (G box, transfer & differentials) that I routinely replaced every 50K kilometres. Worked very well. 

Cant do it any more, new 4x4 uses multigrade throughout.

I remember reading one of my saw manuals - said you could use a single grade (no viscosity specified) as bar oil


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## redlined_b16a (Oct 4, 2021)

I run 80/90 wt oil because it's free for me.
I work for a crane manufacturer and if a bucket comes in from a job with an open cap they dispose of it which cost money.

I get it for free.Been using it in the CS400 for 13 years with no issues.Im sure the thicker red sticky oil is better though


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## bwalker (Oct 4, 2021)

redlined_b16a said:


> I run 80/90 wt oil because it's free for me.
> I work for a crane manufacturer and if a bucket comes in from a job with an open cap they dispose of it which cost money.
> 
> I get it for free.Been using it in the CS400 for 13 years with no issues.Im sure the thicker red sticky oil is better though





redlined_b16a said:


> I run 80/90 wt oil because it's free for me.
> I work for a crane manufacturer and if a bucket comes in from a job with an open cap they dispose of it which cost money.
> 
> I get it for free.Been using it in the CS400 for 13 years with no issues.Im sure the thicker red sticky oil is better though


I would hate to have gear oil sprayed all over the place given what it smells like.
I have used hydro fluid when in a pinch.


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## J D (Oct 4, 2021)

Not a fan of waste motor oil for all the previously mentioned reasons as well as the fact that some of my saws are a tad incontinent & leaving a puddle of clean oil is bad enough!
That said I have disposed of clean used oil from the likes of gear boxes & compressors by adding it to my bar lube at about 10 to 1. Can't see that causing any issues but I'm happy to be educated if there's anything I might be missing


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## OM617YOTA (Oct 4, 2021)

Just about anything will be fine, as far as the bar and chain are concerned. I've run gallons and gallons of plain veggie oil with no issue. If it didn't gum up bar and chain, that's what I'd use full time.


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## computeruser (Oct 4, 2021)

I’ve found it works fine as a stand-in for 2-stroke mix, too. Saves me so much money over that expensive Klotz stuff.


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## KASH (Oct 5, 2021)

What product works fine as a stand in for two stroke oil?
Kash


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## OM617YOTA (Oct 5, 2021)

KASH said:


> What product works fine as a stand in for two stroke oil?
> Kash


Think he was poking fun, either at used engine oil, or at my veggie oil comment, being a stand in for 2 stroke oil.


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## GeorgiaVol (Oct 5, 2021)

How much bar oil do yall use in a month?


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## Philbert (Oct 5, 2021)

Free bar oil on the beach in California, if you scroungers want to strain it. 

Philbert


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## Bob Hedgecutter (Oct 5, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> How much bar oil do yall use in a month?



Varies from month to month- not much in the middle of Winter- but this time of year (Spring for us) I average around 10-12 litres a month, which nuts out to about roughly 2 1/2-3 US gallons. 
Sometimes it will be twice that, sometimes just half of that- but that is a good average and all of it is new chain bar oil that has not done 5-15,000 miles already.


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## Redgap (Oct 6, 2021)

I pay a lot extra to put non-oxy premium gas in my saws, why in the world would I use waste motor oil as bar oil?? And not that $8 for a gallon of bar oil is gonna break the bank, but I run across jugs of bar oil (and the atf I mix in when it’s cold out) all the time at garage/estate sales for pennies on the dollar.


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## sean donato (Oct 6, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> How much bar oil do yall use in a month?


Just got 14 gallons in last month, expect it to last me till next year... cutting season will be in full swing here now it's getting cooler out. Have a job next weekend and I picked up a fence row removal as a winter project. (Lots of black locust in it ) still have 2 full gallons and a partial from last year. I didn't cut near as much this year so far as last. Been too busy and have plenty on hand. Lumber prices caused a halt to expanding the wood shed, so I've left a lot of wood in log form.


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## Philbert (Oct 6, 2021)

I assume that some company has tried Teflon coated bars over the years?

Wouldn’t lube the chain, but might reduce other bar oiling needs?

Philbert


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## Pioneer (Oct 9, 2021)

Two good examples of why you should not put used motor oil in your chainsaw. A Husqvarna 570 and a 51 have been subjected to it and they are a filthy mess. The oil is actually hard and crusty under the clutch cover of the 570, not looking forward to working on these things.


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## motorhead99999 (Oct 13, 2021)

You can buy wax additive to put in used oil to help with the tacky ness like bar oil. Most of the municipalities around me do this.


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## North by Northwest (Nov 1, 2021)

Backyard Lumberjack said:


> hi mwg - over all, a pretty good thread! i even told the QB about it... she had a good
> better than a good cup a with donuts...
> 
> 
> ...


Better with a medium rare backstrap & Miller Tex !


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## North by Northwest (Nov 1, 2021)

sean donato said:


> But are they all really faster? We've had high speeds for quite a long time. The 346xp has been a 14 to 15k rpm saw for years and even the bigger saws have been over the 10k mark for quite some time.





> Seriously its about better tacifiers (shear strength) & lubricity . The new synthetic bar oils simply out class the old mineral oil specifications on all counts & for that you pay a elevated price unfortunately . As far as used engine oil give your head a shake , environmental concerns aside , why the hell do I want a know carcinagin contaminated oil sprayed all over everything !


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## North by Northwest (Nov 1, 2021)

bwalker said:


> I've used Walmart Supertech for years with no negative results. It's cheap too.
> Use oil is dirty, a known human carcinogen, doesn't work all that well, and contains acidic by products which my cause problems.
> Same thing with guys that use gear oil. That stuff stinks to high heaven and costs more than proper bar oil.





> Why not just use waste hypoid gear lube & market it as the new extreme summer grade bar oil , with that sweet old school aroma !


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## North by Northwest (Nov 1, 2021)

miller755 said:


> And they dodged a hazardous waste disposal fee.
> Have you ever heard of PCB's....worse than used motor oil.


Yeah , the new glow in the dark bar oil !


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## North by Northwest (Nov 1, 2021)

KASH said:


> Just my opinion but I think it is a far greater danger to eat the meat fruit and vegetables laden with man made chemicals from your local grocery store than it is to worry about a small amount of used oil in a chain saw.
> I would sooner cover my body with used motor oil than having to spend a day in a major city now there is a chemical hell hole where no sane human being should ever be.
> I used to be a good speller until I started using used oil in my chain saw.
> Kash


Perhaps caused by that used oil contaminated organic sheep manure fertilizer that you spread on the vegetable garden last spring !


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## North by Northwest (Nov 1, 2021)

windthrown said:


> Eating saturated fat like lard actually has nothing to do with blocked arteries. Quite the opposite, really. Its a complete myth that fat causes heart disease. I know, its against the paradigm of 'modern' medicine these days, and many doctors still do not agree, but a growing number of doctors (particularly kidney specialists) are realizing this after many years of research. The so called modern diet of low fat and high sugar and refined carbs has led to high rates of insulin resistance, which causes obesity, heart disease, diabetes, kidney disease, and even dementia. Yeah, I can hear you all screaming already. But its an emerging paradigm that is replacing the old one. I flipped to a high fat low carb diet (with a lot of bacon, lard, butter, cheese, etc) and I lost 20 pounds in less than 2 months. I do not snack or crave carbs any more. I have kept the weight off since changing over to a low carb, high fat diet. I do not eat the candy, soda pop, cake or pie any more. I eat a lot of eggs. Yes, they are supposed to be bad, but in fact they are good.
> 
> There is an old saying in Russia that you need to eat fat to lose fat. Which is actually correct. When you eat sugar and refined carbs (which you rapidly convert to sugar) your body responds by producing insulin. When you have high insulin levels, you cannot (yes, CANNOT) burn fat. Insulin not only prevents you from burning fat, it forces you to store fat and make you even fatter. After eating lots of carbs and sugar, your body becomes more resistant to insulin. Then you start craving more food, particularly carbs and sugar, and you gain more weight because you cannot burn the fat off. It becomes a viscous cycle. People are literally starving while they stuff their faces with carbs and sugar and they get fatter and fatter. When you eat a low carb diet, your insulin levels remain low, and when insulin levels are low, you can burn off fat.
> 
> ...



Add a few ounces of used , non detergent 30 on your chefs salid and your blood sugar & electrolytes levels decrease & your hair will have a natural Sheen !


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## North by Northwest (Nov 1, 2021)

Philbert said:


> I assume that some company has tried Teflon coated bars over the years?
> 
> Wouldn’t lube the chain, but might reduce other bar oiling needs?
> 
> Philbert


Teflon coatings will not stand up to the abrasive nature / heat cycles of a chain & bar applications !


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## Joisey (Nov 1, 2021)

My stepson used to ride me about buying bar and chain oil when "used motor oil is basically free and works just as well" until I pointed out that he went thru bars and chains three times faster than I did.


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## TonyCH (Nov 2, 2021)

In Finland we have a strong forest industry. The whole country is basically either forests or lakes. 75% of the forests (outside Lapland) are privately owned and a great part of that is production forests (ie. grown for sale). Roughly half of the people own a summer cottage. So, I would estimate (out of my hat) that 20+% of Finnish males own a chainsaw - or several of them. 

So, we use a lot of bar oil. Most of commercially available bar oils in Finland are recycled oil. I think there is one recycling plant which prepare and bottle all the domestic bar oils per their customers specs. The oils might start as motor oils, rear end oils or even hydraulic oils. They filter used oil and maybe add a chemical which increases its tackiness (also a Finnish product). Might add some other additives too, don't know. I think even some/most bio oils are recycled of some kind.

We can also get imported oils. I have no way of knowing if they are actually "new" oil which was made as bar oil from the start. Maybe, maybe not. Would seem waste of good oil if it was.

During decades of use I have not seen or heard of any obvious adverse effects of using recycled oils. The saws are not any more worn or dirty than from using "new" oil. I guess good cleaning of the oil before using is the key. Also from health point of view. Pour it into your saw directly from your car and yes, you might see or feel problems sooner or later.

We have more technical problems with bio oils. Some don't work properly in cold climate. Some turn to resin and gum things up.


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## North by Northwest (Nov 2, 2021)

TonyCH said:


> In Finland we have a strong forest industry. The whole country is basically either forests or lakes. 75% of the forests (outside Lapland) are privately owned and a great part of that is production forests (ie. grown for sale). Roughly half of the people own a summer cottage. So, I would estimate (out of my hat) that 20+% of Finnish males own a chainsaw - or several of them.
> 
> So, we use a lot of bar oil. Most of commercially available bar oils in Finland are recycled oil. I think there is one recycling plant which prepare and bottle all the domestic bar oils per their customers specs. The oils might start as motor oils, rear end oils or even hydraulic oils. They filter used oil and maybe add a chemical which increases its tackiness (also a Finnish product). Might add some other additives too, don't know. I think even some/most bio oils are recycled of some kind.
> 
> ...


Not comparing apples to apples Tony . The inherent environmental & health risk of using recycled oil vs waste oil are vastly different . I have no concern of properly recycled (refined) oil used as bar oil . Actually once the oil is cracked during the recycling process the impurities & carcinogenic elements are greatly reduced if not removed entirely . The addition of tacifiers most likely makes it an effective alternate to what you have indicated as a waste of a valuable base oil for an inferior final oil product useage .


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## TonyCH (Nov 2, 2021)

Yes, I realize using old oil directly from your tractor vs. recycled oil is very different. From lubrication point of view once used oil is still very good but impurities are not helpful and can indeed cause health issues.

One should however remember that oil recycling plants are not generally getting rid of old oil (dumping etc. it). They are making new products from it. And there is huge quantity of used oil to be recycled every year. So, even without realizing it one might be using "used" oil in various less than critical applications such as a bar oil. Not just in Finland but in other countries too. Read the small print on the bottle. And if the can is not transparent, look into the container for stuff that has settled to the bottom of it. Not all recycling or filtering processes are equal.


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## North by Northwest (Nov 2, 2021)

TonyCH said:


> Yes, I realize using old oil directly from your tractor vs. recycled oil is very different. From lubrication point of view once used oil is still very good but impurities are not helpful and can indeed cause health issues.
> 
> One should however remember that oil recycling plants are not generally getting rid of old oil (dumping etc. it). They are making new products from it. And there is huge quantity of used oil to be recycled every year. So, even without realizing it one might be using "used" oil in various less than critical applications such as a bar oil. Not just in Finland but in other countries too. Read the small print on the bottle. And if the can is not transparent, look into the container for stuff that has settled to the bottom of it. Not all recycling or filtering processes are equal.


10-4 !


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## Smitty Smithsonite (Nov 2, 2021)

Used motor oil is too valuable for me. It keeps my 21st Century low-bidder-junk GM truck from turning to scrap in 5 years from road salt, so long as I find the time to get it on the lift and blast the undercarriage with it. I also burn it in my home-built waste oil burner I nicknamed, "The Face Melter". Free heat! A little bit of work screening larger crap out of it, but boy does it COOK!


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## OM617YOTA (Nov 2, 2021)

Re-refined oil, I have zero problem with at all. If the end product meets original specs, it meets original specs.

I checked into a waste oil burner to heat my shop, but it would have to be code compliant, EPA compliant, etc or my homeowner's insurance wouldn't cover any issues. If it was just my shop out in the middle of nowhere burning down, I'd probably do it and accept the risk. As it is, if my shop goes, then my house is going too, and likely also several neighbor's out buildings and fences. I want the insurance coverage, and will decline to do anything stupid out there.


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## Smitty Smithsonite (Nov 2, 2021)

We're "out in the sticks" as my suburban & city buddies say. We can get away with things that most can't in this state. That said, I won't run this thing unless I'm working out there. Common sense goes a long way here. Sometimes I don't know what's in the oil, so whenever I refill the feed bucket, I'll hang around next to it to be sure there isn't any gasoline at the bottom. That makes a nice unconfined fire out in FRONT of the stove, instead of inside of it.  Concrete floor and nothing flammable around it, so just turn on the fans, cut the fuel supply way down, and let things air out. This definitely isn't a "set it and forget it" setup. Once I know the fuel is stable, I can walk away from it, go in the house and eat lunch while keeping an eye on my camera. Once warmed up and with a good fuel source, it'll burn for hours without constant fiddling.


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## softdown (Nov 2, 2021)

I just don't see how a typical wood burner would use enough bar oil to worry much about the cost.


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## Smitty Smithsonite (Nov 2, 2021)

I'm cheap.


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## OM617YOTA (Nov 2, 2021)

I'm cheap too, but I'm not "damage my lungs to save $12/yr" cheap.


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## Smitty Smithsonite (Nov 2, 2021)

I have asthma. If the stuff was that bad, I'd have been dead years ago. I've been up to my elbows in it since I was around 12. Same with grandpa - he lived to be just shy of 86.

Just like with the virus - everyone's different. If it runs in your family that anyone that touches oil dies, then I'd avoid it. My dad smoked for 57 years. He's 81 now, still hanging in there.


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## ballisticdoughnut (Nov 2, 2021)

I would never run used motor oil as bar oil, I think it's pretty well known as to why you shouldn't do it at this point. Every now and then I get a saw come through my shop with used motor oil in it and it honestly pisses me off. Why someone wold spend good money on a nice saw and put dirty black motor oil in it is beyond me.


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## ken morgan (Nov 3, 2021)

ballisticdoughnut said:


> I would never run used motor oil as bar oil, I think it's pretty well known as to why you shouldn't do it at this point. Every now and then I get a saw come through my shop with used motor oil in it and it honestly pisses me off. Why someone wold spend good money on a nice saw and put dirty black motor oil in it is beyond me.


I call horseshit. by association.. you sell, you lie. end of discussion. not to mention you misspelled would... so much for your lesbian seagull dancing degree.


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## jonsered-52E (Nov 3, 2021)

GeorgiaVol said:


> Here is a question though:
> Say you get up Sunday morning and are loading up for a half day of cutting up your neighbor's tree that fell over, but find out your bar oil bottle is empty, and you forgot to buy more. Is there another product you could use in a pinch to get you through the day?


clean motor oil 20-40W works the best in a pinch


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## sgbotsford (Nov 3, 2021)

Philbert said:


> I assume that some company has tried Teflon coated bars over the years?
> 
> Wouldn’t lube the chain, but might reduce other bar oiling needs?
> 
> Philbert


Teflon is slick, but not tough. HDMW Polyethylene is used to line the ore chutes on the Great Lakes ore carriers, and also as blade edges on loaders when you can't tear up the surface (e.g. removing the dirt from an arena after a motocross race.) It's not steel.

Oil has several functions on a chain: 

* Lube the channel on the bar.
* Keep the chain links filled to keep dirt out of chain
* Cool the bar.

Used motor oil has PCAs poly cyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, some of which are pretty nasty. Depending on the use, it may have varying amounts of metal in it. While steel is mostly iron, nickel and carbon, it will also have chromium, vanadium, molybdenum, and more. First two are quite toxic. 

It's also not very sticky. A lot of it whips of rounding the nose and drive sprocket. The first disperses it into the air. The second increases the mess inside your saw.


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## sgbotsford (Nov 3, 2021)

jonsered-52E said:


> clean motor oil 20-40W works the best in a pinch


Gear oil?

Baby oil? 

Deep fryer oil?

More to the point: 
Bar oil here is available at every farm supply store, every hardware store. Someone is going to be open on Sunday. It's not as cheap as the forestry supply store where you have an account.

You wouldn't substitute melted margarine for your engine mix oil would you? Even if it did make the woods smell like hot buttered biscuits? No. It would wreck the saw. 

So keep one jug of oil ahead. Soon as you open the last one, add 'bar oil' to the errand list.


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## Philbert (Nov 3, 2021)

sgbotsford said:


> Oil has several functions on a chain


A key thing that many people do not understand, is that each rivet is also a bearing. The center portion is hardened, and this needs to be lubricated. If movement occurs at the softer part of the rivets, where they join the tie straps, they wear quickly, and this leads to “chain stretch“.

This is why STIHL, and some other companies, had small grooves in the drive links, to direct oil to these bearings.

Philbert


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## Brufab (Nov 3, 2021)

I hear the used hydraulic oil works good and maybe less impurities than used motor oil. I always use bar oil. Usually you can pick it up for not much $. Or sometimes stores have weird types of engine oils that go on clearance that I sometime pick up for pennies on the dollar. I tried the used motor oil and it made a mess and some of those fine particles could potentially wear out parts or clog things up. I'm no expert though by any means.


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## Brufab (Nov 3, 2021)

Pioneer said:


> Two good examples of why you should not put used motor oil in your chainsaw. A Husqvarna 570 and a 51 have been subjected to it and they are a filthy mess. The oil is actually hard and crusty under the clutch cover of the 570, not looking forward to working on these things.


Wow those are duuuuuurteeee!!!! Can't believe you brought those into wherever that is at. If that's a workshop that's the cleanest nicest one I ever seen!


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## jonsered-52E (Nov 3, 2021)

sgbotsford said:


> Gear oil?
> 
> Baby oil?
> 
> ...


The jobs of bar oil, cool chain, lube bar. Motor oil is for a pinch. It get the job done and does the same as bar oil.


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## OM617YOTA (Nov 3, 2021)

Brufab said:


> I hear the used hydraulic oil works good and maybe less impurities than used motor oil. I always use bar oil. Usually you can pick it up for not much $. Or sometimes stores have weird types of engine oils that go on clearance that I sometime pick up for pennies on the dollar. I tried the used motor oil and it made a mess and some of those fine particles could potentially wear out parts or clog things up. I'm no expert though by any means.


I'd be completely comfortable using clean new motor oil. Good idea.


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## Brufab (Nov 3, 2021)

OM617YOTA said:


> I'd be completely comfortable using clean new motor oil. Good idea.


Thanks! Yea i learned that on a real cold day. My regular echo bar oil was like molasses. Winter formula county line from tsc was out of stock. Luckily I keep a couple quarts of motor oil in the truck since it burns a quart or 2 between changes. It got me through the day.


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## Philbert (Nov 3, 2021)

Brufab said:


> Thanks! Yea i learned that on a real cold day. My regular echo bar oil was like molasses. Winter formula county line from tsc was out of stock. Luckily I keep a couple quarts of motor oil in the truck since it burns a quart or 2 between changes. It got me through the day.


Several owner’s manuals will note the option to thin bar and chain oil, up to 25%, with kerosene or diesel fuel in cold temps. 

I don’t like the smell of diesel fuel, so I bought a gallon of kerosene for this purpose. Especially important with battery and corded electric chainsaws, which do not generate any heat to thin the oil. 

Philbert


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## bwalker (Nov 3, 2021)

Philbert said:


> Several owner’s manuals will note the option to thin bar and chain oil, up to 25%, with kerosene or diesel fuel in cold temps.
> 
> I don’t like the smell of diesel fuel, so I bought a gallon of kerosene for this purpose. Especially important with battery and corded electric chainsaws, which do not generate any heat to thin the oil.
> 
> Philbert


I always use a splash of #1 diesel or Kerosene to thin bar oil or just left the bar oil in a heat truck or skidder cab.


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## Brufab (Nov 3, 2021)

Does the kerosene and oil ever separate or does the vibration keep it mixed? I know alot of old times that use that method if mixing for cold temps.


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## North by Northwest (Nov 3, 2021)

bwalker said:


> I always use a splash of #1 diesel or Kerosene to thin bar oil or just left the bar oil in a heat truck or skidder cab.


I pretty well use winter grade oil 24-7 , may use a little more oil however never have any plugging issues with the lite oil & better flow characteristics !


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## Brufab (Nov 3, 2021)

Ha just like I use winter washer fluid year round in my cars here in michigan. Good thinking I will do that from now on. Great tip for us in colder climates


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## bwalker (Nov 3, 2021)

Broken said:


> I pretty well use winter grade oil 24-7 , may use a little more oil however never have any plugging issues with the lite oil & better flow characteristics !


The refiner I now work for makes summer and winter grade or shall I say markets winter and summer grade. I just use winter when needed, which isn't all that often.


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## North by Northwest (Nov 3, 2021)

bwalker said:


> The refiner I now work for makes summer and winter grade or shall I say markets winter and summer grade. I just use winter when needed, which isn't all that often.


To each his own bud , I have done this for close to 60 yrs . Never had a oiler related fouling . However have had to clean , rinse numerous other saws with kerosene to resolve heavier viscosity bar oil fouling issues likely caused by our colder Northern climate saw usage .


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## North by Northwest (Nov 3, 2021)

Brufab said:


> Does the kerosene and oil ever separate or does the vibration keep it mixed? I know alot of old times that use that method if mixing for cold temps.


Prior to winter grade bar oil , in the 60's kerosene was utilized for this purpose often in colder climate saw use . However bar & chain , sprocket diminished life was what it was back then . Much like Sae 30. fuel / oil mix & bar oil usage . Hell , when I raced snowmobiles in the 70's caster race oil was mixed in the heated race trailer , and would fall out of suspension in fuel storage tanks unless agitated often , kerosene & oil will separate also if let stand. It was what it was ! Thankfully task specific oil technology allowed for better selections today lol.


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## North by Northwest (Nov 3, 2021)

OM617YOTA said:


> I'd be completely comfortable using clean new motor oil. Good idea.


Hope so , thats what bar oil originated from lmao + tacifiers . Smells better though , if you add 10 % sunflower seed oil !


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## Captain Bruce (Nov 3, 2021)

sgbotsford said:


> Gear oil?
> 
> Baby oil?
> 
> ...


Bought a case of 4 x Gallons, of Stens Hi-Tack, on Amamzon, delivered next day, fir 38 bucks.


Smitty Smithsonite said:


> Used motor oil is too valuable for me. It keeps my 21st Century low-bidder-junk GM truck from turning to scrap in 5 years from road salt, so long as I find the time to get it on the lift and blast the undercarriage with it. I also burn it in my home-built waste oil burner I nicknamed, "The Face Melter". Free heat! A little bit of work screening larger crap out of it, but boy does it COOK!
> View attachment 938750
> View attachment 938751
> View attachment 938752


Polar Bear Murderer


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## Philbert (Nov 3, 2021)

Brufab said:


> Does the kerosene and oil ever separate or does the vibration keep it mixed?


I have never known it to be a problem. I shake up the jug before pouring it into the saw. If I am not going to use a saw for a few days I usually drain the bar and chain oil back into the jug, to avoid leaks and messy clean ups - this is something that I do with all oils.


bwalker said:


> The refiner I now work for makes summer and winter grade or shall I say markets winter and summer grade.


Winter grade oil helps, but I still have to thin it for battery / corded electric saws when it is cold outside 20°F. Storing it warm, inside, helps, unless you are outside all day.

Philbert


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## iowagold (Nov 3, 2021)

for me a $1k saw we use the real deal stihl bar oil and real stihl mix oil.
and we have had good luck.


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## KASH (Nov 4, 2021)

Back in the sixties we used automobile oil for all of our equipment outboaeds snow machines saws etc.
My dad was a bit of a perfecionist his three lines i remember clearly
use a filter funnel mix the gas and oil in a seperate can and shake it well
go easy 
if it is running good leave it alone
We had an old Snow Cruiser snow mobile 14 hp opposed twin a great machine way ahead of its time but it weighed a ton.
My younger brother was about twelve he poured the clear gas in the snow machine and didnt warm the oil up on the wood furnace register so much for dads golden rules.He got side tracked for the rest of the day and that night it was about 40 below with a clear starry ski.He came and told me the machine quit he said it started but then quit outside we go.I try a few pulls then give her a couple of squirts of gas with the sunlight soap bottle we always kept for easy starts.The machine started up but would only run on prime.He held the flash light while I unscrewed the gas line connector from the tank.I can still see this picture vividly when the hose and fuel pick up came out the line and fitting had a golden veil of mollasses like 30 weight oil.When I shone the flash light in the tank you could see the oil sitting on the bottom in a ball.I gave him a blast and asked him if he warmed the oil and shook the machine he confessed he had not warmed the oil up much because it was only 10 below in the afternoon he said it was kinda hard to pour the oil it was the old paper oil can type.I took the tank out warmed it up shook it well and of we went in a blaze of 16-1 mix smoke.
Good memories
Kash
Kash

l


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## Bobmo (Nov 4, 2021)

I guess I will be the contrarian again.
But first, all my saws are Stihl old school and 40+ years old and running fine.
My 041 farm boss has been with me since 1975, and its only seen used motor oil.
I collect it in a 2 gallon jug every time I change oil, so it sits for awhile and the heavy junk settles to the bottom.
only last year did I have an oiling problem with a leaking pump. Not bad for that much service.
Every few years I will run some 2 stroke gas in the oil tank, but thats it.
I cut 2-4 chords of wood each year and an occasional storm damage tree or two.
I have a few 011's as well and they all use used motor oil.
I think the newer saws suffer from too tight a manufacturing tolerance, whereas the older ones are less finicky.
So I have been kinda recycling used old for a longtime. basically cause I'm cheap!
Now I have to knock wood to avoid any bad luck that come from telling my deep secrets.
Bobmo


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## North by Northwest (Nov 4, 2021)

KASH said:


> Back in the sixties we used automobile oil for all of our equipment outboaeds snow machines saws etc.
> My dad was a bit of a perfecionist his three lines i remember clearly
> use a filter funnel mix the gas and oil in a seperate can and shake it well
> go easy
> ...


Yeah those were the days , Valvoline 30 motor oil @ 16:1 , hard starts , fouled plugs , blue smoke filling the air . Decarbonizing the heads & muffler . Thanks for the memories . P.S. You Dad was a wise man !


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## North by Northwest (Nov 4, 2021)

Bobmo said:


> I guess I will be the contrarian again.
> But first, all my saws are Stihl old school and 40+ years old and running fine.
> My 041 farm boss has been with me since 1975, and its only seen used motor oil.
> I collect it in a 2 gallon jug every time I change oil, so it sits for awhile and the heavy junk settles to the bottom.
> ...


You , devils spawn !


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## Marco (Nov 4, 2021)

Used hydraulic oil works pretty good, in fence row trees here in sand country tackifier can be against you.


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## Brufab (Nov 4, 2021)

I have heard that. Guys change their hydraulic oil in equipment and you get alot of liquid gold by the barrel. I cut alot of dead ash and that is like steel laced with sand/silica/ dirt. I usually try to knock all the bark of if possible. Those emerald ash borders really wrecked havoc here. Tree services made alot of $ cleaning up the dead ash.


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## Kel71 (Nov 4, 2021)

Bobmo -Every few years I will run some 2 stroke gas in the oil tank, but thats it.




WOW Scary


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## WoodyGuy (Nov 4, 2021)

Philbert said:


> Several owner’s manuals will note the option to thin bar and chain oil, up to 25%, with kerosene or diesel fuel in cold temps.
> 
> I don’t like the smell of diesel fuel, so I bought a gallon of kerosene for this purpose. Especially important with battery and corded electric chainsaws, which do not generate any heat to thin the oil.
> 
> Philbert


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## WoodyGuy (Nov 4, 2021)

A couple of the recent posts spurred this response ... particularly Bobmo's ....

I, too, have an old stihl 041 farm boss that I bought new in '76, along with
three husky's .... since last century, I've used nothing but drain oil from
trucks/equip of mine. I've still got the original bar on the 041, and have
never replaced a bar on any of the huskys. Granted, I'm not a pro, but
I heat two houses with nothing but wood - one has an outdoor furnace,
and I but about 15 cords a year plus some firewood for other folks, and
the slabwood from a bandmill I have. The last three years it's been all
dead or dying ash, and as mentioned, that's hard chit. One think I'll
mention that I do think makes the difference here is that when I drain
the oil from something, it's hot, and I immediately pour the oil into
a container *** through an automotive paint filter ***. Using drain oil
without filtering just strikes me as flat out dumb ...

I've rebuilt one of my huskys and do all the work on the saws
myself .... yes, the drain oil makes things black, but hey, it's
only a color ... and compared to cleaning all the sawdust gunk
out around sprockets/etc, gawd.

As far as the lubrication qualities of drain oil ....gimme a break ...
the oil doesn't stay put very long, and it's got a constant new
supply ... compared to 200 hours constant use in an engine,
it takes a couple trips around the bar, and see ya later.

can only imagine I'll be ducking from the flack on this one,
but like I said, nothing but used oil, and have never had
to replace any oiling related items on any of the huskys.
Did put a new oil pump on the 041 about 8 years ago,
but hey - that was 37 years after I bought the saw.

The key is the paint filter.

Hagman


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## sb47 (Nov 4, 2021)

Bar oils are a marketing tool used to sell you more products at an inflated price. Just like engine oil is recommended to be changed every 3,000 miles when the oil will actually last 2 to 3 times longer. Like me and many others who have said that they use used motor oil for decades with no issues what so ever. Everyone keeps mentioning tackifiers and sling resistance when in reality most of the oil is dragged off from the wood chips and contact with the wood. 
A Stihl 20'' bar is $46.00 brand new. At $7,00 to $12,00 a gallon for bar oil. At 7 bucks a gallon you would only have to use 6 gallons to equal the cost of a new bar. Add 10 bucks for a sprocket and we are up to 7 gallons of oil to equal a bar and sprocket set. I probably run over 100 gallons of oil per bar before it needs replacing. At 7 bucks a gallon that's $700.00 in oil compared to FREE used motor oil and an occasional bar and sprocket replacement for less then 60 bucks.
I don't know about anyone else but I would rather spend my money on other things. You could buy a whole new saw for 700 bucks.


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## Bobmo (Nov 4, 2021)

Hagman,
Thanks for seconding the 'old oil use' post.
I tried a paint filter, but I dont have the patience to wait for a gallon of hot oil in a drain pan to work its way into a jug. I figure if sits for a month or more its pretty much settled out.
bobmo


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## Pythagorus (Nov 4, 2021)

Amongst the high performance road cars I have owned are Porsche Flashbau, Alfas, XR 4x4 siera Cosworth sierra, BMW, SAAB Carlsson and Aero, and Suburu WRX. In every marque dozens, hundreds of fantasist, dreamers, narcissists liars and pseudo-scientific types, (where less polite terms are commonly used to describe them, by others) dedicate themselves to making the car 'better' than the designers and factory. Mostly they ruin car, value and too commonly ...themselves.

Vehicle manufacturers and designers have $millions if not $billions of test equipment, staff, scientists, testing personnel, road testing and other facilities...but then what would they know??..compared with the pseudo-genius' who know better...

Cars are designed to meet a range of buyer personalities types and conditions and are de-tuned from their potental, for that purpose. De-tuning does not include leaving expnsive brake calipers on the car as might be in rally/racing tests ...but uses components which make the car affordable to the target market. 

Included in the design and testing is notion and experimentation in lubricants, to give good service to buyers and to protect the car. When people mess about with the marketed item they likely lose insurance and warranty....so it is with chainsaws.

If standard motor oils suited chain and bar the chainsaw makers would recommend it....The 'sticky' oil has an ongoing and reliable lubrication purpose. The costs of the oil varies, yes, and Stihl may be most expensive as it perhaps has huge R and D costs and to face many warranty claims being a major seller. Electrolux will have hard and fast rules also on lubrication. Stihl, Solo, Echo, Jonsareds for example base product-responsibility on the user's provable adherence to recommended procedures and products... as would any intelligent ,skilled, future visionary and experienced manufacturer. 

Intelligence is not displayed by using vegetable oil, kerosene, diesel or used or new motor oil in place of chain/bar oil. 
Before most of you (likely) were born oils were more limited but included a very sticky oil known as 'castor' oil...it worked well and contributed to an addictive smell from early racing cars. Today its viscocity would limit revs in racing engines however its sticky 'type' still has a purpose. To protest that thin oils, oils with little compression resistance and home-brew oils are as good as specialised chainaw oil is, politely put, just silly, assinine. 

Apart from the oils being flung from the chain more readily than 'correct' oils ,the bar and chain will increase wear...more and more with use and the nature of timber and the 'not recommended' cutting angles but would those protesting their favorite brew really know the wear/wear rate? 

Yes a manufacturer can recommend a 'thinner' to enable the saw to be ...or at least 'seem' to be working better in very cold climate but that does not indicate the thinner is a suitable lubricant. The thinner is to bring the bar oil back to its viscocity and do its job as would be in warmer climate...It will by its inclusion increase wear but it also enables adequate oil pumping...

Do you know any manufacturer which advises such as 'below -20degs "C" ..just use motor oil or your favorite brew of used or new oils, fuels and any herbs and spices you think best."....?

Buy and use correct chain oil....made to the manufacturer required standard and specs. Walk away from temptation to become one of those I listed in paragraph 1.

Voila


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## ken morgan (Nov 5, 2021)

Pythagorus said:


> Amongst the high performance road cars I have owned are Porsche Flashbau, Alfas, XR 4x4 siera Cosworth sierra, BMW, SAAB Carlsson and Aero, and Suburu WRX. In every marque dozens, hundreds of fantasist, dreamers, narcissists liars and pseudo-scientific types, (where less polite terms are commonly used to describe them, by others) dedicate themselves to making the car 'better' than the designers and factory. Mostly they ruin car, value and too commonly ...themselves.
> 
> Vehicle manufacturers and designers have $millions if not $billions of test equipment, staff, scientists, testing personnel, road testing and other facilities...but then what would they know??..compared with the pseudo-genius' who know better...
> 
> ...


All I read was someone who thinks they are better and smarter than everyone else that has posted in this thread and is/was attempting to shame them into doing as he says... you sound like one of those politicians from California sad to see Australia falling down that path.


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## Iffykid (Nov 5, 2021)

bwalker said:


> I always use a splash of #1 diesel or Kerosene to thin bar oil or just left the bar oil in a heat truck or skidder cab.


Summer weight year around, In the winter the bar oil rides in the truck cab next to the floor heater vent and is generally warmed up by the time we get to the job site.


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## sb47 (Nov 5, 2021)

ken morgan said:


> All I read was someone who thinks they are better and smarter than everyone else that has posted in this thread and is/was attempting to shame them into doing as he says... you sound like one of those politicians from California sad to see Australia falling down that path.


Correct because my personal 20+ years of real world experience means nothing to these look down there nose elitist blowhards that drink the corporate Kool-aid and think they know best.


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## bwalker (Nov 5, 2021)

sb47 said:


> Correct because my personal 20+ years of real world experience means nothing to these look down there nose elitist blowhards that drink the corporate Kool-aid and think they know best.


The mental gymnastics one needs to go through to equate not wanting to expose oneself to a known carcinogen that doesn't work as good as drinking the corporate Kool-aide must be substantial.


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## sb47 (Nov 5, 2021)

bwalker said:


> The mental gymnastics one needs to go through to equate not wanting to expose oneself to a known carcinogen that doesn't work as good as drinking the corporate Kool-aide must be substantial.


Well I got you to respond, now didn't I.


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## Pythagorus (Nov 7, 2021)

sb47 said:


> Correct because my personal 20+ years of real world experience means nothing to these look down there nose elitist blowhards that drink the corporate Kool-aid and think they know best.


Response, yes, because I felt for you in whatever this means "_elitist blowhards that drink the corporate Kool-aid and think they know best."_ which I presume makes sense to ...well, ....to someone out there in Texas......I feel one must try to encourage _'wannabe elitist... but always fail'_ introverts to engage brain before opening mouth. Chin up, youngster...


ken morgan said:


> All I read was someone who thinks they are better and smarter than everyone else that has posted in this thread and is/was attempting to shame them into doing as he says... you sound like one of those politicians from California sad to see Australia falling down that path.


Normally I wouldn't have replied to your impish comment but it raised my curiosity... to find you relating me to "Australia" in your bewildering,oratory...What on earth has my rational comment on fools and lubricants to do with "_Australia falling down that path_"...That's as silly as it would be for me to place you (in Texas) with the recent president who claimed he is _ better and smarter than everyone else._.in fact _a genius_...whilst an embarrassment to the intelligentia of the world. That would be unfair to you.

Perhaps my 'ex-contextra' target missed your point ...perhaps you had to be read in full...: "_you sound like one of those politicians from California sad to see Australia falling down that path" . _That was an event I obviously missed in USA_...."mea culpa, mea maxima culpa..._but seeing_ "California Politicians sad to see Australia falling down that (what???) path."..._I ask._...are California politicians actually interested in Australia?...or know where it is on the planet? _

'Reminds me' of Dame Edna anecdotally recalling President Bush. Bear in mind that Aussies are always ready to help out their tribal brothers and sisters wherever they are. I do realise Bush was not the dill to whom I referred in para 1.

An Australian icon...on one occasion Dame Edna explained that "Little George" Bush was a bit jealous of Edna's library. “He said to he Dame , ‘How many books do you need for a library, Edna? .....Would Laura’s copy of “The Da Vinci Code” be enough?’' 

Edna helped out by buying Bush an Atlas for Christmas...typically Australian generosity....

Some time later the Dame chided Bush for telephoning at 4am Australia time....he having no idea that Australia is in a different time zone from Texas...in fact Texas is 15 hours behind...._.Raconteurilly _ ... Bush thanked the Dame for the Christmas present of a lovely Atlas....but was needing help as he could not find 'overseas' anywhere in the index. His wife had suggested looking under 'A' for 'Abroad' ..but they couldn't find that either. 

Sir Les Patterson is pretty much like that too...generous to a fault....always prepared 'to give it one'...So...there you go...thank you for your so vapid response...Voila.


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## Bwildered (Nov 7, 2021)

Pythagorus said:


> Response, yes, because I felt for you in whatever this means "_elitist blowhards that drink the corporate Kool-aid and think they know best."_ which I presume makes sense to ...well, ....to someone out there in Texas......I feel one must try to encourage _'wannabe elitist... but always fail'_ introverts to engage brain before opening mouth. Chin up, youngster...
> 
> Normally I wouldn't have replied to your impish comment but it raised my curiosity... to find you relating me to "Australia" in your bewildering,oratory...What on earth has my rational comment on fools and lubricants to do with "_Australia falling down that path_"...That's as silly as it would be for me to place you (in Texas) with the recent president who claimed he is _ better and smarter than everyone else._.in fact _a genius_...whilst an embarrassment to the intelligentia of the world. That would be unfair to you.
> 
> ...


You might as well have written that in Swahili, the gringos wouldn't have understood one word of it.


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## North by Northwest (Nov 7, 2021)

Yep , that clearly sums up this Waste engine oil , Bar oil application debate rather effectively , so who's on 1st ?


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## blades (Nov 8, 2021)

Broken said:


> Yep , that clearly sums up this Waste engine oil , Bar oil application debate rather effectively , so who's on 1st ?


Abott and Costello - all time classic


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## rogue60 (Nov 8, 2021)

Pythagorus said:


> Amongst the high performance road cars I have owned are Porsche Flashbau, Alfas, XR 4x4 siera Cosworth sierra, BMW, SAAB Carlsson and Aero, and Suburu WRX. In every marque dozens, hundreds of fantasist, dreamers, narcissists liars and pseudo-scientific types, (where less polite terms are commonly used to describe them, by others) dedicate themselves to making the car 'better' than the designers and factory. Mostly they ruin car, value and too commonly ...themselves.
> 
> Vehicle manufacturers and designers have $millions if not $billions of test equipment, staff, scientists, testing personnel, road testing and other facilities...but then what would they know??..compared with the pseudo-genius' who know better...
> 
> ...


The list of vehicles you have owned tells me you have never run a saw to make a living. You've read a manual whoop de doo this doesn't instantly make you knowledgeable on a subject lol


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## Bob Hedgecutter (Nov 8, 2021)

rogue60 said:


> The list of vehicles you have owned tells me you have never run a saw to make a living. You've read a manual whoop de doo this doesn't instantly make you knowledgeable on a subject lol



Come on a WRX would look shitehot pulling a chipper!


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## rogue60 (Nov 9, 2021)

Bob Hedgecutter said:


> Come on a WRX would look shitehot pulling a chipper!


I guess his list of vehicles means he'd get to the hospital fast if he ever got a splinter. Just not sure how he'd go getting he's "driving gloves" on in that kind of scenario lol


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## ken morgan (Nov 9, 2021)

Pythagorus said:


> Response, yes, because I felt for you in whatever this means "_elitist blowhards that drink the corporate Kool-aid and think they know best."_ which I presume makes sense to ...well, ....to someone out there in Texas......I feel one must try to encourage _'wannabe elitist... but always fail'_ introverts to engage brain before opening mouth. Chin up, youngster...
> 
> Normally I wouldn't have replied to your impish comment but it raised my curiosity... to find you relating me to "Australia" in your bewildering,oratory...What on earth has my rational comment on fools and lubricants to do with "_Australia falling down that path_"...That's as silly as it would be for me to place you (in Texas) with the recent president who claimed he is _ better and smarter than everyone else._.in fact _a genius_...whilst an embarrassment to the intelligentia of the world. That would be unfair to you.
> 
> ...


fortunately for everyone involved I do not live in california nor texas... and the videos of your cops going full nazi face mask brown shirt thugs is legendary on the internet. so calm down Legalis... the red headed dwarves always win in the end. that being said. your rant was just that, a social justice warrior/I am better than thee rant that was not worth the time it took to read it... BTW I own several high end cars including a 2016 Maserati.. want a video of me pulling on the wangan? owning a fast car only indicates that you and I both have deep pockets, a short attentin span and a willingness to ignore the laws...nothing more. It does not mean that either of us is any more intelligent than the rest of the folks posting here....Case in point...my favorite muse, Mark Zuckerburg. having cash does not make you smarter than anybody else.. it makes you a victim of luck and the times... both of which change swiftly.


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## thill (Nov 9, 2021)

I've used waste motor oil in cold winters in the past, but rarely use it anymore. Lately, used 80/90 gear oil from my outboard engines is my preference. It's very similar to bar oil.

To be sure, the engine oil worked fine. Sprockets and chain lasted just as long. But the motor oil runs through the saw faster, and sprays at higher RPM's. The gear oil is a nice alternative.


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## sb47 (Nov 10, 2021)

For me I like the dark color of use motor oil because I can see the oil splatter that lets me know the oiler is working. I also like that it's free and is a good way of putting a waste oil to one last use, because lets face it, most people do not recycle there used motor oil.


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## rogue60 (Nov 10, 2021)

Bar oil around here sells for $35 to $65 for 5L.
I used to use 4-5L sometimes more a day times that by 5 days that would be around $175 a week and over 7k a year! yeah I'd have to have rocks in my head to buy "Bar oil" 
The cheap not Bar oils I've used over the years performed perfectly fine never a complaint always got long life out of bars.
Now day's I test run oils through my ute for 5k just to make sure it's good enough to use as Bar oil.


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## Bob Hedgecutter (Nov 10, 2021)

rogue60 said:


> Bar oil around here sells for $35 to $65 for 5L.
> I used to use 4-5L sometimes more a day times that by 5 days that would be around $175 a week and over 7k a year! yeah I'd have to have rocks in my head to buy "Bar oil"
> The cheap not Bar oils I've used over the years performed perfectly fine never a complaint always got long life out of bars.
> Now day's I test run oils through my ute for 5k just to make sure it's good enough to use as Bar oil.


44 gallon drums of chain bar oil over this side of the ditch work out at about $3 per litre- not sure you could test run it in the ute though, maybe in the VK (or was it a VL?)?


----------



## rogue60 (Nov 10, 2021)

Bob Hedgecutter said:


> 44 gallon drums of chain bar oil over this side of the ditch work out at about $3 per litre- not sure you could test run it in the ute though, maybe in the VK (or was it a VL?)?


RIP VK wasn't even my doing lol


----------



## ken morgan (Nov 10, 2021)

i love these oil threads they go so far off course so fast that even the mods give up


----------



## ken morgan (Nov 10, 2021)

ken morgan said:


> i love these oil threads they go so far off course so fast that even the mods give up


@Broken tell me I am wrong....


----------



## North by Northwest (Nov 10, 2021)

ken morgan said:


> @Broken tell me I am wrong....


No , your pretty well spot on !


----------



## Mad Professor (Nov 10, 2021)

With Biden's puppeteer's running the show bar oil might soon cost more than gold.

Then I'd be running drain oil


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## bwalker (Nov 10, 2021)

rogue60 said:


> Bar oil around here sells for $35 to $65 for 5L.
> I used to use 4-5L sometimes more a day times that by 5 days that would be around $175 a week and over 7k a year! yeah I'd have to have rocks in my head to buy "Bar oil"
> The cheap not Bar oils I've used over the years performed perfectly fine never a complaint always got long life out of bars.
> Now day's I test run oils through my ute for 5k just to make sure it's good enough to use as Bar oil.


$35-65 for bar oil is complete insanity. I just picked up a gallon for $6 on sale.


----------



## Bob Hedgecutter (Nov 10, 2021)

bwalker said:


> $35-65 for bar oil is complete insanity. I just picked up a gallon for $6 on sale.



That is nothing, bar oil is cheap when you have to pay $2:65 a litre for 91 octane.
Believe me, I tried running my saws on 40:1 with used gas- the performance just isn't there!


----------



## bwalker (Nov 10, 2021)

Bob Hedgecutter said:


> That is nothing, bar oil is cheap when you have to pay $2:65 a litre for 91 octane.
> Believe me, I tried running my saws on 40:1 with used gas- the performance just isn't there!


Again, obscene. I can't understand how you guys out up with such crap. I assume most of the cost is tax?


----------



## sb47 (Nov 10, 2021)

Bob Hedgecutter said:


> That is nothing, bar oil is cheap when you have to pay $2:65 a litre for 91 octane.
> Believe me, I tried running my saws on 40:1 with used gas- the performance just isn't there!


What is used gas?


----------



## North by Northwest (Nov 10, 2021)

Mad Professor said:


> With Biden's puppeteer's running the show bar oil might soon cost more than gold.
> 
> Then I'd be running drain oil


Oh come on money bags , you can't shell out $20 bucks American for a gallon of bar oil ....seriously ? You had better be chained to the chem lab for life , your dangerous !


----------



## North by Northwest (Nov 10, 2021)

Broken said:


> No , your pretty well spot on !


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## Brufab (Nov 10, 2021)

Probly better to fill er up with cookn oil at those prices


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## North by Northwest (Nov 10, 2021)

Brufab said:


> Probly better to fill er up with cookn oil at those prices


Cookn oil will better protect your investment & health & environment & better achieve a better end product !


----------



## rogue60 (Nov 10, 2021)

Broken said:


> Cookn oil will better protect your investment & health & environment & better achieve a better end product !


If it works good as bar oil I'd be all for it I might go see the local fish and chip shop to see what eco friendly used oils they need disposing of.


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## Frank Chandler (Nov 11, 2021)

sb47 said:


> For me I like the dark color of use motor oil because I can see the oil splatter that lets me know the oiler is working. I also like that it's free and is a good way of putting a waste oil to one last use, because lets face it, most people do not recycle there used motor oil.


I swear by rock drill oil - check your Texaco or Chevron dealer. It’s about 40-weight in viscosity but the additives make it stick to the chain. Comes in 5-gallon buckets so it lasts a while once you spring for it.


----------



## sb47 (Nov 11, 2021)

Frank Chandler said:


> I swear by rock drill oil - check your Texaco or Chevron dealer. It’s about 40-weight in viscosity but the additives make it stick to the chain. Comes in 5-gallon buckets so it lasts a while once you spring for it.


I don't know what that is, besides used motor oil is free and what I have been using for many years with no issues what so ever.


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## arto_wa (Nov 11, 2021)

I just drained 30 gallons of used Mobilfluid 424 hydraulic / transmission oil from a boom lift and have been wondering how to put it to some use - perhaps chainsaw bar oil is one of them?
Should probably pour in little bit of STP additive to make it sticky!

Cheers


----------



## vizette (Nov 11, 2021)

Frank Chandler said:


> I swear by rock drill oil - check your Texaco or Chevron dealer. It’s about 40-weight in viscosity but the additives make it stick to the chain. Comes in 5-gallon buckets so it lasts a while once you spring for it.



Huh, never heard of that, but google has.  Learn somethin' new every day... It's about what I expected based on the name, but I don't like to assume. Thanks for the tip!





__





Robot or human?






www.walmart.com


----------



## OM617YOTA (Nov 11, 2021)

That's over $10/gal. Actual bar oil is $6/gal with careful shopping.

No thank you.


----------



## sb47 (Nov 11, 2021)

arto_wa said:


> I just drained 30 gallons of used Mobilfluid 424 hydraulic / transmission oil from a boom lift and have been wondering how to put it to some use - perhaps chainsaw bar oil is one of them?
> Should probably pour in little bit of STP additive to make it sticky!
> 
> Cheers
> ...


A littlt 90 weight gear oil will make it tacky. If you can stand the smell.


----------



## vizette (Nov 11, 2021)

OM617YOTA said:


> That's over $10/gal. Actual bar oil is $6/gal with careful shopping.
> 
> No thank you.


Did you do any careful shopping for this (I didn't) or just make an assumption for the sake of argument? 

That's right at $10 a gallon which is about going rate for cheaper "actual" bar oils from what I've seen. Not tryin' to shop that hard to salvage a couple bucks on a gallon of oil, that link was just the first thing I came across from a local joint and I was sharing in case anyone else was wondering about the product itself.


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## OM617YOTA (Nov 11, 2021)

No assumptions. The link you posted was over $10/gal. I buy bar oil at $6/gal when I see it's on sale, at a store I frequent anyway.

I stay stocked up, but if I needed bar oil right then and there, I'm just buying what's available and not worrying about the cost.

I'm lazy, and bar oil is a solution which works, is widely available, and is cheap. I'm not spending any time or effort at all, to find an alternative that is less available, less convenient, probably works as well as what I'm already using, and might be able to be found for as little cost as what I'm already using. I'm just going to keep using what I'm already using.


----------



## vizette (Nov 11, 2021)

OM617YOTA said:


> No assumptions. The link you posted was over $10/gal. I buy bar oil at $6/gal when I see it's on sale, at a store I frequent anyway.
> 
> I stay stocked up, but if I needed bar oil right then and there, I'm just buying what's available and not worrying about the cost.
> 
> I'm lazy, and bar oil is a solution which works, is widely available, and is cheap. I'm not spending any time or effort at all, to find an alternative that is less available, less convenient, probably works as well as what I'm already using, and might be able to be found for as little cost as what I'm already using. I'm just going to keep using what I'm already using.



Gotcha, out of curiosity what are you using? I was poking around various sources like TSC, Walmart, etc. and couldn't find anything under $10. Maybe it's just a regional pricing diff. Wondering if that's also the difference we're seeing in the Walmart link which is 4.8 gallons at $48 when I looked at it.


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## OM617YOTA (Nov 11, 2021)

BiMart is a local store, bar oil is usually ~$10/gal like you mention. A couple times per year it's on sale for $6/gal, and I grab some if I need it.

No clue what brand it is. It all works exactly as well as any other brand, as far as I can tell.

Edit: Just checked, now it's $14/gal. Times are a-changing.


----------



## Philbert (Nov 11, 2021)

vizette said:


> Gotcha, out of curiosity what are you using? I was poking around various sources like TSC, Walmart, etc. and couldn't find anything under $10. Maybe it's just a regional pricing diff.


I see it on sale at Menard’s (a regional home improvement chain) frequently under $7 / gallon. Brand varies.

I assume that it is re-refined motor oil, but it does not stink of sulfur like some brands.




Philbert


----------



## sb47 (Nov 11, 2021)

Philbert said:


> I see it on sale at Menard’s (a regional home improvement chain) frequently under $7 / gallon. Brand varies.
> 
> I assume that it is re-refined motor oil, but it does not stink like sulfur like some brands have.
> 
> ...


Most places that carry it in my neck of the woods is 10/12 dollars a gallon. TS sometimes has it on sale for 7 bucks but most of the time there price is about 10 bucks on average.I have never seen any bar oil under 7 bucks anywhere.


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## heimannm (Nov 11, 2021)

Blaines (regional Fleet Farm type store) has bar and chain oil on sale this week for $5.49. I don't need to buy any right now as I picked up 8 gallons last time they had it on sale for $5.00.

Mark


----------



## ballisticdoughnut (Nov 13, 2021)

ken morgan said:


> I call horseshit. by association.. you sell, you lie. end of discussion. not to mention you misspelled would... so much for your lesbian seagull dancing degree.


Oh no I spelled a word wrong. Go lie down you neanderthal.


----------



## Frank Chandler (Nov 13, 2021)

ballisticdoughnut said:


> Oh no I spelled a word wrong. Go lie down you neanderthal.


Chill, Ken!
We’re talking about bar oil here - not a subject that should arouse such intense emotions, unless Ballistic Doughnut is sleeping with your favorite sheep and you have an axe to grinds.


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## Frank Chandler (Nov 13, 2021)

Somebody made a comment about putting some STP into used motor oil to improve its adherence - that is a brilliant idea! Best of both worlds- lots of free oil and you still get the improved lubricating and cooler temperatures of a high anti-strip oil.

Cutting line for surveying requires minimum downtime: (every minute costs 3 or 4 man-minutes of crew time) minimal fluid refills and chain sharpening, and pushing the bar through whatever is in the way to drop it as quickly as possible. I try to balance the bar oil feed with the gas feed so that I don’t have to make extra stops, and I use carbide-coated Oregon micro-chisel chains that will last all day between sharpening if one keeps them in the cellulose and out of the dirt. A cool chain with minimal oil works best.


----------



## North by Northwest (Nov 13, 2021)

Good points , Frank if your recommending new straight 30 with a stp as a oil modifier . Used oil is a poor choice for bar oil use with or with out additives . P.S. Agree with the Sheep with benefits analogy though !


----------



## Bwildered (Nov 13, 2021)

Used motor oil is a known carcinogen & some of you lot want to breathe that stuff in by using it? Are you in full control of your faculties?


----------



## sb47 (Nov 13, 2021)

Bwildered said:


> Used motor oil is a known carcinogen & some of you lot want to breathe that stuff in by using it? Are you in full control of your faculties?


I'm sure even new bar oil is also a known carcinogen. I highly doubt using bar oil of any kind will result in breathing in any of it what so ever. Your not burning it or breathing in any vapors in any way. And how may millions of gallons of motor oil are burned or leaked away and spread everywhere from the millions of cars/truck and power equipment that is used everyday. Oil is a natural product of mother Earth. She made it and she disposes it all on her own.


----------



## Bwildered (Nov 14, 2021)

sb47 said:


> I'm sure even new bar oil is also a known carcinogen. I highly doubt using bar oil of any kind will result in breathing in any of it what so ever. Your not burning it or breathing in any vapors in any way. And how may millions of gallons of motor oil are burned or leaked away and spread everywhere from the millions of cars/truck and power equipment that is used everyday. Oil is a natural product of mother Earth. She made it and she disposes it all on her own.


No, new bar oil is not carcinogenic, if you have ever cut near water you would have noticed oil getting on the water, you can't see it, it is a mist, it's floating around in the air, you are indesting it in whether it's attached to fine sawdust & you're breathing it in or skin contact, most people want to reduce their consumption of toxic things, not increase them


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## Frank Chandler (Nov 14, 2021)

I have never used waste oil - that’s how I got into this. An old logger from Ketchikan (must have been 50! Old for a big-tree sawyer, anyway) told me 40 years ago that Texaco (now Chevron) Rock Drill Oil would double the life of my chain. That’s what I’ve used ever since,, except in emergencies. I 5-gallon can would last a season for me.


----------



## Frank Chandler (Nov 14, 2021)

And I hate to break it to you, but any petroleum product is a carcinogen. I don’t recommend breathing, eating, or otherwise ingesting it. Regarding most: my saws have never made a mist. I check to see if the bar’s getting oil by pointing it at something to see if there’s spatter, by I don’t breathe it. What saw are you using?


----------



## sb47 (Nov 14, 2021)

Bwildered said:


> No, new bar oil is not carcinogenic, if you have ever cut near water you would have noticed oil getting on the water, you can't see it, it is a mist, it's floating around in the air, you are indesting it in whether it's attached to fine sawdust & you're breathing it in or skin contact, most people want to reduce their consumption of toxic things, not increase them


Dude, your about as smart as Joe Biden.


----------



## OM617YOTA (Nov 14, 2021)

@sb47 Look up what an "ad hominem" is. You're not helping your case.


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## vizette (Nov 14, 2021)

So the potential exposure to carcinogens from the bar oil is a concern, but the carcinogens from the exhaust that we're constantly breathing and exposing everything around us to while we're running it is OK? 

I mean, I don't have a dog in this fight, I just find it amusing that the elephant in the room is being ignored when talking about potential carcinogenic effects of running a saw. Which granted also has nothing to do with the original topic.


----------



## OM617YOTA (Nov 14, 2021)

@vizette Here you go:



OM617YOTA said:


> Well, ain't none of it good, just degrees of how bad?
> 
> Burn oil and gasoline in your saw engine, it makes one trip through and it's gone. Yeah, you breathe some of it, which isn't good. This is also why I won't use leaded fuel, like some people do.
> 
> ...


----------



## Philbert (Nov 14, 2021)

vizette said:


> I just find it amusing that the elephant in the room is being ignored


I NEVER feed my elephant used motor oil! 

(But that’s just me. I also don’t let my dogs fight).

Philbert


----------



## Stihl a grasshopper (Nov 14, 2021)

sb47 said:


> I'm sure even new bar oil is also a known carcinogen. I highly doubt using bar oil of any kind will result in breathing in any of it what so ever. Your not burning it or breathing in any vapors in any way. And how may millions of gallons of motor oil are burned or leaked away and spread everywhere from the millions of cars/truck and power equipment that is used everyday. Oil is a natural product of mother Earth. She made it and she disposes it all on her own.


Everything causes cancer in California…


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## Bwildered (Nov 15, 2021)

vizette said:


> So the potential exposure to carcinogens from the bar oil is a concern, but the carcinogens from the exhaust that we're constantly breathing and exposing everything around us to while we're running it is OK?
> 
> I mean, I don't have a dog in this fight, I just find it amusing that the elephant in the room is being ignored when talking about potential carcinogenic effects of running a saw. Which granted also has nothing to do with the original topic.


most people want to reduce their consumption of toxic things, not increase them


----------



## Bwildered (Nov 15, 2021)

Frank Chandler said:


> And I hate to break it to you, but any petroleum product is a carcinogen. I don’t recommend breathing, eating, or otherwise ingesting it. Regarding most: my saws have never made a mist. I check to see if the bar’s getting oil by pointing it at something to see if there’s spatter, by I don’t breathe it. What saw are you using?


I looked up a few bar oils on some materials safety data sheets and it is not carcinogenic , everybody but a few know that the exhaust gases from 2 strokes are toxic also , that is common knowledge, if you have some data that shows bar oil to be carcinogenic please share it.


----------



## ken morgan (Nov 15, 2021)

ballisticdoughnut said:


> Oh no I spelled a word wrong. Go lie down you neanderthal.


Crap at least spell nuckle dragger properly. 


vizette said:


> So the potential exposure to carcinogens from the bar oil is a concern, but the carcinogens from the exhaust that we're constantly breathing and exposing everything around us to while we're running it is OK?
> 
> I mean, I don't have a dog in this fight, I just find it amusing that the elephant in the room is being ignored when talking about potential carcinogenic effects of running a saw. Which granted also has nothing to do with the original topic.


We all gonna die sooner or later…. Cancer is just one more mechanism. He’ll even breathing O2 is bad for you on the wrong concentrations. And let’s not talk about hydrogen dioxide.


----------



## arto_wa (Nov 15, 2021)

Frank Chandler said:


> Somebody made a comment about putting some STP into used motor oil to improve its adherence - that is a brilliant idea! Best of both worlds- lots of free oil and you still get the improved lubricating and cooler temperatures of a high anti-strip oil.
> 
> Cutting line for surveying requires minimum downtime: (every minute costs 3 or 4 man-minutes of crew time) minimal fluid refills and chain sharpening, and pushing the bar through whatever is in the way to drop it as quickly as possible. I try to balance the bar oil feed with the gas feed so that I don’t have to make extra stops, and I use carbide-coated Oregon micro-chisel chains that will last all day between sharpening if one keeps them in the cellulose and out of the dirt. A cool chain with minimal oil works best.




It was me in post #237 and it's not used motor oil - it's used Mobilfluid 424 10W-30 hydraulic / transmission oil I was talking about!

Just trying to figure out if there is any way to put 30 gallons of it to further use since it still looks very clean?


----------



## Frank Chandler (Nov 15, 2021)

Bwildered said:


> I looked up a few bar oils on some materials safety data sheets and it is not carcinogenic , everybody but a few know that the exhaust gases from 2 strokes are toxic also , that is common knowledge, if you have some data that shows bar oil to be carcinogenic please share it.


You are free to switch to a bow saw (or a 2-man saw for big timber) at immediately if you think it will save the planet. So far I haven’t seen any solar-powered chainsaws and wind power is historically unpredictable as a method of downing trees. Handlogger Jackson preferred a double-bit axe but I never developed that technique.


----------



## Stihl a grasshopper (Nov 15, 2021)

arto_wa said:


> It was me in post #237 and it's not used motor oil - it's used Mobilfluid 424 10W-30 hydraulic / transmission oil I was talking about!
> 
> Just trying to figure out if there is any way to put 30 gallons of it to further use since it still looks very clean?


Run it in a diesel truck…


----------



## OM617YOTA (Nov 15, 2021)

If I was still regularly driving my Yota, I'd take it off your hands. It'll eat anything.


----------



## Bwildered (Nov 15, 2021)

Frank Chandler said:


> You are free to switch to a bow saw (or a 2-man saw for big timber) at immediately if you think it will save the planet. So far I haven’t seen any solar-powered chainsaws and wind power is historically unpredictable as a method of downing trees. Handlogger Jackson preferred a double-bit axe but I never developed that technique.


Don’t get confused now and run off at another tangent, if you have something that shows new bar oil to be carcinogenic then I’d and many others would love to see it?


----------



## Nobel Carlson (Nov 15, 2021)

vizette said:


> Did you do any careful shopping for this (I didn't) or just make an assumption for the sake of argument?
> 
> That's right at $10 a gallon which is about going rate for cheaper "actual" bar oils from what I've seen. Not tryin' to shop that hard to salvage a couple bucks on a gallon of oil, that link was just the first thing I came across from a local joint and I was sharing in case anyone else was wondering about the product it





Frank Chandler said:


> I have never used waste oil - that’s how I got into this. An old logger from Ketchikan (must have been 50! Old for a big-tree sawyer, anyway) told me 40 years ago that Texaco (now Chevron) Rock Drill Oil would double the life of my chain. That’s what I’ve used ever since,, except in emergencies. I 5-gallon can would last a season for me.


Anybody ever us Hydraulic oil as a bar oil?


----------



## Yukon Stihl (Nov 16, 2021)

arto_wa said:


> It was me in post #237 and it's not used motor oil - it's used Mobilfluid 424 10W-30 hydraulic / transmission oil I was talking about!
> 
> Just trying to figure out if there is any way to put 30 gallons of it to further use since it still looks very clean?


Do you drive an old diesel by any chance ?


----------



## Dudders (Nov 16, 2021)

Nobel Carlson said:


> Anybody ever us Hydraulic oil as a bar oil?


I have and it seemed fine. That's oil from my sawmill (hydrostatic) and over 30 years old! Not into the carcinogenic theories myself, but I gave up using mineral oil and switched to rapeseed and bio recently as I felt bad about spraying it around the countryside. Now the weather's colder, however, I do find the stuff sticking hard to every available surface on the saw - very claggy and a right PITA to clean off. Might have to use it only in summer and revert to my remaining drum of old hydraulic for winter.


----------



## arto_wa (Nov 16, 2021)

Yukon Stihl said:


> Do you drive an old diesel by any chance ?



Yes old & new and have considered it but decided not to burn it in my Diesel engines - it's not worth the risk in my opinion.
The injectors and fuel pumps are expensive to rebuild to take a chance and they already get Opti-Lube for lubrication.

In my case the choices are either chainsaw bar oil use, or taking it to used oil recycling place.


----------



## OM617YOTA (Nov 16, 2021)

arto_wa said:


> Yes old & new and have considered it but decided not to burn it in my Diesel engines - it's not worth the risk in my opinion.
> The injectors and fuel pumps are expensive to rebuild to take a chance and they already get Opti-Lube for lubrication.
> 
> In my case the choices are either chainsaw bar oil use, or taking it to used oil recycling place.


Definitely hear you there. An awful lot could go wrong that would make you wish you'd just spent $100 on diesel at the pump.

I upgraded the filtration on my truck. I have a Racor 30 micron water block primary filter, followed by a CAT 2 micron secondary. I'd run it in mine without any concerns, but definitely not if I had stock filtration. You're even in SW WA, and I'm in NW OR, too bad I'm not driving the Yota anymore.


----------



## Nobel Carlson (Nov 16, 2021)

Dudders said:


> I have and it seemed fine. That's oil from my sawmill (hydrostatic) and over 30 years old! Not into the carcinogenic theories myself, but I gave up using mineral oil and switched to rapeseed and bio recently as I felt bad about spraying it around the countryside. Now the weather's colder, however, I do find the stuff sticking hard to every available surface on the saw - very claggy and a right PITA to clean off. Might have to use it only in summer and revert to my remaining drum of old hydraulic for winter.


Thanks, I have some fresh oil I will use.


----------



## Yukon Stihl (Nov 17, 2021)

arto_wa said:


> Yes old & new and have considered it but decided not to burn it in my Diesel engines - it's not worth the risk in my opinion.
> The injectors and fuel pumps are expensive to rebuild to take a chance and they already get Opti-Lube for lubrication.
> 
> In my case the choices are either chainsaw bar oil use, or taking it to used oil recycling place.


If it gets filtered it will inprove the life of old diesel injectors and pumps. Old being pre sulphur free diesel so mid 90's


----------



## ballisticdoughnut (Nov 19, 2021)

ken morgan said:


> Crap at least spell nuckle dragger properly.


You mean knuckle? I'm gonna go ahead and assume your trolling me at this point.


----------



## ken morgan (Nov 21, 2021)

ballisticdoughnut said:


> You mean knuckle? I'm gonna go ahead and assume your trolling me at this point.


ah whats a few misspellings between forum mates?


----------



## thill (Nov 22, 2021)

This reminds me of the hot debates about which trailer axle grease is best. Some swear by red and tacky, others only use this $$$ brand or that, others use Walmart's SuperTech, and all have good success with each.

"Grease is cheaper than steel." It seems to me that as long as the bar stays oily, things will wear less than if it's running dry, regardless of what particular oil you are using. 

Used motor oil is thinner, and auto lubes more liberally, so it seems to auto-correct for it's lesser lubricating properties. I've never had any problems with it, but I find it slightly annoying that I have to fill up more with it. I'm really happy with using used gear oil, and now I'm going to start using hydraulic fluid, too.

As far as used engine oil, I get way more than I can ever run through a saw. We run multiple vehicles, tractors, ATV's, splitters, pressure washers, tractors, mowers and more. I've been giving most of my used oil to my local auto mechanic, but I'm considering buying a waste oil furnace like he has. They keep their shop nice and toasty, and it costs them nothing. I just need to find one cheap enough.


----------



## ken morgan (Nov 22, 2021)

thill said:


> This reminds me of the hot debates about which trailer axle grease is best. Some swear by red and tacky, others only use this $$$ brand or that, others use Walmart's SuperTech, and all have good success with each.
> 
> "Grease is cheaper than steel." It seems to me that as long as the bar stays oily, things will wear less than if it's running dry, regardless of what particular oil you are using.
> 
> ...


which is where most of my laughter is directed. lube is lube.... anything you get from used motor oil is no worse than the grit you normally pick up from cutting wood. I personally use my used motor oil for a space heater that is designed and built it (By me) but anything else is game, you can adjust for it hence the adjustable oiler..


----------



## thill (Nov 22, 2021)

Good point about a saw always having junk in it.

I'm not going to adjust my oiler, as I think it's kind of self-regulating. It gives a little more of the lower lubricity used oil, and less of the thicker, better oils. So either way, I'm covered.

That space heater sounds very interesting! Details, details! 

Did you modify a kerosene heater or something? Do you have to clean it out a lot? That is exactly what I'm looking for in my shop.


----------



## OM617YOTA (Nov 22, 2021)

I've seen people just add a fire pan and an oil dripper to a wood stove. Build a wood fire, get everything preheated, then turn on the oil dripper and let it run. I'd do exactly that if my homeowner's insurance would cover it. Probably have 20 gallons of used oil I need to take to the dump right now, and all they do is burn it in their own heaters.


----------



## Yukon Stihl (Nov 22, 2021)

I have a Reznor waste oil furnace in my shop
23 years of running on it aprox 28000 hrs at 1.7 gal an hour.
It is a very good unit and will run on 25% gas.
i have 2 years worth of veggie oil once the regs get to crazy on waste oil.
It needs to be cleaned about every 600-700 hours.
Waste oil is messy no mater how hard you try to stay clean.


----------



## ken morgan (Nov 23, 2021)

thill said:


> Good point about a saw always having junk in it.
> 
> I'm not going to adjust my oiler, as I think it's kind of self-regulating. It gives a little more of the lower lubricity used oil, and less of the thicker, better oils. So either way, I'm covered.
> 
> ...


i took an O2 cylinder and cut the top off to match a 5" chimney pipe, put legs on it to keep it stable a hole in the bottom where a smaller blower and a stainless steel grid sits. it drips via a tank through a valve to adjust drip speed. start the drip, light off with a cup kerosene or diesel and turn on blower at low speed after about 5 minutes the stainless grid is hot enough that the oil vaporizes when it hits it... about 10 minutes after that the oil vaporizes about half way down the cylinder and I open the fan control all the way. by about the 40 min mark the entire top half of the cylinder is glowing red hot. this is for in the shop only in the largest open space. the first 5 minutes of burning are dirty but by the time it hits full speed it burns with no visible smoke...just a metric **** ton of heat.


----------



## Aknutter (Nov 23, 2021)

FYI...

Blain's farm and fleet is running the Mystic bar and chain oil for 4.99 this black Friday weekend.


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## Philbert (Nov 23, 2021)

Aknutter said:


> Blain's farm and fleet is running the Mystic bar and chain oil for 4.99 this black Friday weekend.


Thinking of running that in my Subaru, since it does not seem to make a difference. 

Philbert


----------



## rahtreelimbs (Jan 7, 2022)

Why would you spend $1000 or so dollars on a good saw only to use shitty used motor oil as bar lube?

Someone posted that used motor oil has nothing worse in it than the wood you are cutting......wood is not metal particles. 

You can pick up a gallon of bar oil at Tractor Supply for around $8. No brainer here.

Using used motor oil is stupidity at it's finest!


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## Huskybill (Jan 7, 2022)

When I was dealing with a wholesaler doing flea markets they had clearances on oregon bars and Oregon chain loops time to time, laser tip bars were $5 and chain loops were $6. Bar oil or drain oil? Your choice, I use bar oil mainly.


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## bwalker (Jan 8, 2022)

sb47 said:


> I'm sure even new bar oil is also a known carcinogen. I highly doubt using bar oil of any kind will result in breathing in any of it what so ever. Your not burning it or breathing in any vapors in any way. And how may millions of gallons of motor oil are burned or leaked away and spread everywhere from the millions of cars/truck and power equipment that is used everyday. Oil is a natural product of mother Earth. She made it and she disposes it all on her own.


Bar oil isn't a known carcinogen and you most certainly are breathing whatever you lube your chain with.


----------



## sb47 (Jan 8, 2022)

bwalker said:


> Bar oil isn't a known carcinogen and you most certainly are breathing whatever you lube your chain with.


What about all that 2 stroke oil you are breathing? The amount of bar oil that vaporizes enough to be able to breath it is almost nil if any at all.


----------



## Brufab (Jan 8, 2022)

sb47 said:


> What about all that 2 stroke oil your are breathing? The amount of bar oil that vaporizes enough to be able to breath it is almost nil if any at all.


The bar oil is being thrown away from the operator


----------



## bwalker (Jan 8, 2022)

sb47 said:


> What about all that 2 stroke oil your are breathing? The amount of bar oil that vaporizes enough to be able to breath it is almost nil if any at all.


It doesn't have to vaporize and in fact isn't vaporized. It's aerosolised and in higher quantity than what two cycle oil comes out the exhaust. Two cycle oil is also much more benign than motor oil.


----------



## bwalker (Jan 8, 2022)

Brufab said:


> The bar oil is being thrown away from the operator


You really think that? Every notice that build up on your cylinder fins, pants/chaps, etc.


----------



## Wow (Jan 8, 2022)

maowwg said:


> So at the risk of starting a war…
> 
> And just for fun....
> 
> ...


If you will do what I do you can use waste oil.. I fill a clean empty gallon jug with waste oil and sit it in the barn.. I have plenty of that from the farm. So there may be several jugs of oil sitting.. The one that's the oldest is then poured into another clean gallon jug,, BY then the dirt and sludge has settled in the bottom of the FIRST jug.. SO pour slowly and let the sludge stay in the old JUG..NOW.. divide that oil into two jugs and add STP.. The heavy syrup..It's cheap..under or around 3 bucks..NOW,, get another gallon of old settled oil and finish filling these TWO gallons almost full.. NOT quiet full..Shake them well..Watch your chain..Let the saw run half throttle shut it off and check the bottom links..IF it's not moving fast enough enough for you.. Thin just a TINY bit with Transmission fluid..I made a Viscosity guage and I get mine just right.. I never buy (unless in that rare event where I must) bar oil..In fact the good oil out of my equipment is slicker and seems better than the cheap bar oil..Check your viscosity.. Bend a heavy wire into half a loop..Leave a gap.. Dip it and hold it level.. My oil sets in the crack when it's right..Good luck..


----------



## bwalker (Jan 8, 2022)

Wow said:


> If you will do what I do you can use waste oil.. I fill a clean empty gallon jug with waste oil and sit it in the barn.. I have plenty of that from the farm. So there may be several jugs of oil sitting.. The one that's the oldest is then poured into another clean gallon jug,, BY then the dirt and sludge has settled in the bottom of the FIRST jug.. SO pour slowly and let the sludge stay in the old JUG..NOW.. divide that oil into two jugs and add STP.. The heavy syrup..It's cheap..under or around 3 bucks..NOW,, get another gallon of old settled oil and finish filling these TWO gallons almost full.. NOT quiet full..Shake them well..Watch your chain..Let the saw run half throttle shut it off and check the bottom links..IF it's not moving fast enough enough for you.. Thin just a TINY bit with Transmission fluid..I made a Viscosity guage and I get mine just right.. I never buy (unless in that rare event where I must) bar oil..In fact the good oil out of my equipment is slicker and seems better than the cheap bar oil..Check your viscosity.. Bend a heavy wire into half a loop..Leave a gap.. Dip it and hold it level.. My oil sets in the crack when it's right..Good luck..


I am sure that makes you feel better, but your still breathing a known carcinogen.


----------



## Avisagio (Jan 8, 2022)

Ok in cold weather.


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## Joisey (Jan 8, 2022)

I remember way back when I was a tyke I used Pterodactyl urine from a pregnant female. All natural, non carcenogenic and clung to the chain like glue. Chains and bars lasted 2 millennium minimum. Chains never had to be sharpened. Those were the days my friend.....


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## kenfain (Jan 9, 2022)

bwalker said:


> I am sure that makes you feel better, but your still breathing a known carcinogen.


Lighten up Francis...

Wow has a plan that he's put some thought into, and while I don't personally use WMO for anything except the occasional bonfire starter, and only consume a small amount of bar oil. So it would never be cost effective. But still I see a lot of merit in his concoction. I think the amount of bar oil making it's way into the lungs are minimal, at best. And "known carcinogen"? Did the regular bar oil get a free pass on that? Or is it more okay for breathing? I change my oil when it turns caramel colored, and would assume that it would take little filtering to once again be useful. But fully agree that bar oil is cheap, so that's what I use.


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## Brufab (Jan 9, 2022)

I watched the news yesterday said eating broccoli can cause cancer, today on the news said eating broccoli helps prevent cancer not sure how the old guys survived and are still alive after lead paint lead in gas and asbestos. And eating eating broccoli once a week for 50 years


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## kenfain (Jan 9, 2022)

Brufab said:


> I watched the news yesterday said eating broccoli can cause cancer, today on the news said eating broccoli helps prevent cancer not sure how the old guys survived and are still alive after lead paint lead in gas and asbestos. And eating eating broccoli once a week for 50 years


They survived because they had a limited exposure to unauthorized, unapproved bar oil. Obviously that stuff is deadly.


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## OM617YOTA (Jan 9, 2022)

Some of you guys must value your time at absolutely nothing to be willing to go through that much hassle to replace $10/gal bar oil. How much of it are you using for it to be worth that kind of hassle?


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## kenfain (Jan 9, 2022)

Maybe it's the economy? 
Let's go Brandon!


----------



## bwalker (Jan 9, 2022)

kenfain said:


> Lighten up Francis...
> 
> Wow has a plan that he's put some thought into, and while I don't personally use WMO for anything except the occasional bonfire starter, and only consume a small amount of bar oil. So it would never be cost effective. But still I see a lot of merit in his concoction. I think the amount of bar oil making it's way into the lungs are minimal, at best. And "known carcinogen"? Did the regular bar oil get a free pass on that? Or is it more okay for breathing? I change my oil when it turns caramel colored, and would assume that it would take little filtering to once again be useful. But fully agree that bar oil is cheap, so that's what I use.


Regular bar oil isn't a carcinogen and used motor oil is.
The "concotion" doesn't do a thing to change the toxic nature of drain oil.


----------



## Brufab (Jan 9, 2022)

__





VEGETABLE OIL FOR LUBRICATING CHAIN SAWS






www.fs.fed.us




Looks like when guys get a quarter pounder with cheese they should ask if there's any waste French fry oil available forestry service says so


----------



## bwalker (Jan 9, 2022)

ken morgan said:


> which is where most of my laughter is directed. lube is lube.... anything you get from used motor oil is no worse than the grit you normally pick up from cutting wood. I personally use my used motor oil for a space heater that is designed and built it (By me) but anything else is game, you can adjust for it hence the adjustable oiler..


No lube isn't lube. Run bar oil in your car and see what happens.
And yes there are things in used oil that are much worse than regular bar oil and it has nothing to do with dirt and grit.


----------



## kenfain (Jan 10, 2022)

Hmmm.


Philbert said:


> Thinking of running that in my Subaru, since it does not seem to make a difference.
> 
> Philbert





bwalker said:


> No lube isn't lube. Run bar oil in your car and see what happens.
> And yes there are things in used oil that are much worse than regular bar oil and it has nothing to do with dirt and grit.



Lol. Good enough for Philbert's Subaru it seems.


----------



## Brufab (Jan 10, 2022)

kenfain said:


> Hmmm.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I will be patiently waiting for philberts Subaru engine salvage challenge. But I'm sure philbert is just kidding. From what I have read the guy is super smart and is probably just pulling our leg


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## kenfain (Jan 10, 2022)

bwalker said:


> Regular bar oil isn't a carcinogen and used motor oil is.
> The "concotion" doesn't do a thing to change the toxic nature of drain oil.


Got any real evidence of how much bar oil is inhaled? Any evidence that regular bar oil ISN'T toxic? If not then you're just making an assumption. That kind of thinking is exactly how this country has ended up wearing face diapers.


----------



## Brufab (Jan 10, 2022)

Guess we should wear facial diapers while running saws is the moral of this whole story... If it's good enough for coronavirus it has to be good enough for bar oil....


----------



## Brufab (Jan 10, 2022)

Looks like this guy has a line of bar oil across his face. Looks like his mask saved his life!


----------



## kenfain (Jan 10, 2022)

Brufab said:


> Looks like this guy has a line of bar oil across his face. Looks like his mask saved his life!


If that's a line of bar oil...lol, he's doing it wrong


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## Brufab (Jan 10, 2022)

No doubt I don't think it's recommended that your saw is head high in the cut!


----------



## kenfain (Jan 10, 2022)

Brufab said:


> No doubt I don't think it's recommended that your saw is head high in the cut!


Talk about breathing in known carcinogens lol. I really hope that actually is bar oil, and not what it looks like.


----------



## computeruser (Jan 10, 2022)

OM617YOTA said:


> Some of you guys must value your time at absolutely nothing to be willing to go through that much hassle to replace $10/gal bar oil. How much of it are you using for it to be worth that kind of hassle?



I was thinking the same thing.


----------



## jakethesnake (Jan 10, 2022)

I like broccoli


----------



## michael j (Jan 10, 2022)

jakethesnake said:


> I like broccoli


Me too, but now I don't know if I'm gonna live or die from it.


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## jakethesnake (Jan 10, 2022)

michael j said:


> Me too, but now I don't know if I'm gonna live or die from it.


I’m gonna roll the dice


----------



## TRTermite (Jan 10, 2022)

miller755 said:


> And they dodged a hazardous waste disposal fee.
> Have you ever heard of PCB's....worse than used motor oil.


In the early 70s' i liked that stuff better than WD40 and I saved any I could when cleaning copper/scrapping.


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## TRTermite (Jan 10, 2022)

Wood Doctor said:


> I knew three guys who lived near a restaurant that cooked lots of french fries and fried chicken. They collected all their waste cooking oil and used it in their chain saws regularly. One of them liked it when the bar got hot and smoked the cooking oil because the smell made him salivate.


Back in the day I would look around to see where the smell of fast food (French Fries) was coming from.. There aren't any fast food joints around my neck of PodunkVille .. sure enough somebody would leave their diesel running and they were recycling veg oil. They had to be careful about gelling as winter caught up with them. The smell was pleasant considering I seldom eat fast food.. and it was always stronger with lower temperatures. Seldom see/smell that anymore since new tech is wreaking havoc when veg oil meets the new technology.


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## TRTermite (Jan 10, 2022)

I have read through 140 posts and NO ONE has mentioned cutting/felling cottonwood with the sap up. Or even live trees like walnut and so on. When your oil doesn't stick to the bar the sap wins and the bar and chain slow way down and or seize up. It sometimes is bad enough you are better off boring into the tree so it starts to drain, then walk away to another and drain it next sap sometimes will run for hours and not stop completely for days. I was reading a chainsaw milling thread and putting the auxiliary oiler at the tip gets the oil where you want i other wise it gets flung off just when it is needed. Bar oil for me.


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## Brufab (Jan 10, 2022)

I have yet to cut a cottonwood but there is some to fell in the future. Thanks for that info. I know maples in my area are like a waterfall at certain times of the year. And what I have experienced with black walnut has always been like I was rolling around in poison ivy all day. Says juglone is toxic and can cause chemical burns. I have experienced that.


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 10, 2022)

TRTermite said:


> I have read through 140 posts and NO ONE has mentioned cutting/felling cottonwood with the sap up. Or even live trees like walnut and so on. When your oil doesn't stick to the bar the sap wins and the bar and chain slow way down and or seize up. It sometimes is bad enough you are better off boring into the tree so it starts to drain, then walk away to another and drain it next sap sometimes will run for hours and not stop completely for days. I was reading a chainsaw thread and putting the auxiliary oiler at the tip gets the oil where you want i other wise it gets flung off just when it is needed. Bar oil for me.


The loggers around here have found this out tend to cut more cottonwood in the winter when the sap is down. The big 36" bars grab that sap something fierce in the summer especially. Steam will actually escape from the log after a cut:


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## bwalker (Jan 10, 2022)

kenfain said:


> Got any real evidence of how much bar oil is inhaled? Any evidence that regular bar oil ISN'T toxic? If not then you're just making an assumption. That kind of thinking is exactly how this country has ended up wearing face diapers.


The toxicity data of normal bar oil is available on the MSDS. Check them out for your self.
It should be apparent to anyone that's ran a saw that a good portion of the bar oil used ends up on your clothing. The Carhart p pants I use to cut in are stained with regular bar oil. As for inhalation it should also be apparent to anyone that's ran a saw that you can observe the mist coming off the tip of your bar.


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## lohan808 (Jan 10, 2022)

michael j said:


> Me too, but now I don't know if I'm gonna live or die from it.


Yeah me too, but my wife might die if I eat a lot of it.


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## Cascadium (Jan 10, 2022)

Used motor oil made such a dirty mess of everything.

I knew as soon as one tank was done I wasn't gonna do it again.


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## kenfain (Jan 10, 2022)

bwalker said:


> The toxicity data of normal bar oil is available on the MSDS. Check them out for your self.
> It should be apparent to anyone that's ran a saw that a good portion of the bar oil used ends up on your clothing. The Carhart p pants I use to cut in are stained with regular bar oil. As for inhalation it should also be apparent to anyone that's ran a saw that you can observe the mist coming off the tip of your bar.


 I try not to put my nose, or allow anyone else's nose, to be anywhere near my running chainsaw. So oil mist really isn't a factor for me, or those nearby. That's just how I was raised. Besides, It's a ridiculous argument.


----------



## bwalker (Jan 10, 2022)

kenfain said:


> I try not to put my nose, or allow anyone else's nose, to be anywhere near my running chainsaw. So oil mist really isn't a factor for me, or those nearby. That's just how I was raised. Besides, It's a ridiculous argument.


When your done cutting for a day do you smell like exhaust? Of course you do. Do your saws have oily residue on the cylinder fins? Of course they do. 
You are mostly certainly exposed to aerosolised bar oil.


----------



## OM617YOTA (Jan 10, 2022)

What bar oil I'm running impacts how much my sinuses burn at the end of the day more than which fuel and two stroke oil I'm running. I wish veggie oil wasn't such a pain to clean up, I'd run that full time.


----------



## kenfain (Jan 11, 2022)

bwalker said:


> When your done cutting for a day do you smell like exhaust? Of course you do. Do your saws have oily residue on the cylinder fins? Of course they do.
> You are mostly certainly exposed to aerosolised bar oil.


Well I guess that we'll just have to agree to disagree on this one. Because I always stand to the side when cutting. No, I don't get all oily, no, I don't smell like oil at the end of the day. No, I don't smell bar oil, unless it's burning from too much heat in a cut. I smell like sweat from the Texas heat, the wood chips, that cover my clothes, the engine exhaust, and usually the smoke from the fire. So I have no idea what you're talking about there. If I used this type of bar oil, then I'd probably have a pretty good reason why. So that's what I'd do. What has happened to the men in this country is pathetic. Imagine arguing on a men's forum, about some imagined amount of toxic vapor? What's next? Fashion tips? I'm done here.


----------



## TRTermite (Jan 11, 2022)

Brufab said:


> I have yet to cut a cottonwood but there is some to fell in the future. Thanks for that info. I know maples in my area are like a waterfall at certain times of the year. And what I have experienced with black walnut has always been like I was rolling around in poison ivy all day. Says juglone is toxic and can cause chemical burns. I have experienced that.


I have a retired sawmill friend that had to wear long sleeve shirts when sawing walnut. So now I get to google 
"?JUGLONE?" 
Years ago I was cutting and splitting white oak and thought I was having a skin reaction to it. (like the walnut stuff) Turned out I acquired an allergy to horseradish. I do miss horseradish and can eat it now but in moderation, no sense tempting fate.


----------



## Brufab (Jan 11, 2022)

__





Contact Us | Iowa State University Extension and Outreach


Contact one of our offices For program availability in your county, contact your local county office. For additional questions about programs and other resources, contact the department office. County offices Locate your county extension office, with contact information, hours and staff




www.extension.iastate.edu




Yea juglone is no joke. Some guys have gone into aniphilatic shock from it. After I read up on juglone I noticed the only thing growing around a black walnut tree was grass. I have some in my yard what a mess they make. A 8"-10" one has almost killed a tree about 6' away. I will have to take both down. Thinking winter is the best time since I will be bundled up.


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## Brufab (Jan 11, 2022)

Black Walnut: The Killer Tree


Juglone produced by black walnut trees can injure or kill susceptible plants. The symptoms include yellowing leaves, wilting and eventual death of those plants.




www.extension.iastate.edu


----------



## Brufab (Jan 11, 2022)

Sorry guys the first link was wrong the next one I posted is the correct link to read up on juglone and walnut trees


----------



## TRTermite (Jan 11, 2022)

Brufab said:


> __
> 
> 
> 
> ...


My sawmill friend chuckles when he sees some one with a grove of walnut with mowed grass around them. I see those groves that people intend as an investment towards retirement. After watching one grove for 30 plus years it has went from wrist size to leg size. I have some ground with walnuts that I don't want that grew from sprout to leg size in less than 7 years. It has buckbrush and is growing in bottom ground/black dirt. As my friend told me years ago walnut really thrives in bramble and buck brush.


----------



## Brufab (Jan 11, 2022)

__





Walnut skin toxicity - FineWoodworking


My wife and I have both experienced skin burns from black walnut branches and leaves. We cut a split crotch off of the barn this weekend. I cut, she chipped. Where […]




www.finewoodworking.com


----------



## Brufab (Jan 11, 2022)

I cut a 3" one growing in my cyclone fence 2 sprigs grew off trunk and are about 7' tall now.


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## TRTermite (Jan 11, 2022)

You should start a thread about "JUGLONE" might really the readers attention.


Brufab said:


> I have yet to cut a cottonwood but there is some to fell in the future. Thanks for that info. I know maples in my area are like a waterfall at certain times of the year. And what I have experienced with black walnut has always been like I was rolling around in poison ivy all day. Says juglone is toxic and can cause chemical burns. I have experienced that.


----------



## Joisey (Jan 11, 2022)

For over 23 years for American Home products my job was making Prep H. 

I weighed the ingredients that went into each batch, and among them was phenylmercuric nitrate which acted as the anti-fungal agent for the product. I did this for thousands of batches of Prep H without a dust mask or vacuum hood, as none was provided by the company at the time.

My thyroid is shot along with my adrenal glands. The clock is ticking. Chain oil containing carcinogenic components isn't even on the list of my concerns.


----------



## ken morgan (Jan 12, 2022)

Joisey said:


> For over 23 years for American Home products my job was making Prep H.
> 
> I weighed the ingredients that went into each batch, and among them was phenylmercuric nitrate which acted as the anti-fungal agent for the product. I did this for thousands of batches of Prep H without a dust mask or vacuum hood, as none was provided by the company at the time.
> 
> My thyroid is shot along with my adrenal glands. The clock is ticking. Chain oil containing carcinogenic components isn't even on the list of my concerns.


but I bet you don't get the funky booty hole do you? they are plusses and minus's to every situation... Just gotta look for the bright side of it.


----------



## Brufab (Jan 12, 2022)

Joisey said:


> For over 23 years for American Home products my job was making Prep H.
> 
> I weighed the ingredients that went into each batch, and among them was phenylmercuric nitrate which acted as the anti-fungal agent for the product. I did this for thousands of batches of Prep H without a dust mask or vacuum hood, as none was provided by the company at the time.
> 
> My thyroid is shot along with my adrenal glands. The clock is ticking. Chain oil containing carcinogenic components isn't even on the list of my concerns.


Omg joisey, I am sorry to hear that! My wife has adrenal issues and can only imagine what you are experiencing. Take care buddy!


----------



## ken morgan (Jan 12, 2022)

Brufab said:


> Omg joisey, I am sorry to hear that! My wife has adrenal issues and can only imagine what you are experiencing. Take care buddy!


Bro,

everyone's life's are different.. some pay up front, some pay later on in life... seems i been paying since day one.. **** it learn to laugh at life...flip it the finger, tell it to **** off and look for the silver lining... at least he will never have to worry about itchy bootyhole... thats pretty good in my books. remember the solemn vow...


----------



## PoplarSlayer (Jan 12, 2022)

kenfain said:


> Well I guess that we'll just have to agree to disagree on this one. Because I always stand to the side when cutting. No, I don't get all oily, no, I don't smell like oil at the end of the day. No, I don't smell bar oil, unless it's burning from too much heat in a cut. I smell like sweat from the Texas heat, the wood chips, that cover my clothes, the engine exhaust, and usually the smoke from the fire. So I have no idea what you're talking about there. If I used this type of bar oil, then I'd probably have a pretty good reason why. So that's what I'd do. What has happened to the men in this country is pathetic. Imagine arguing on a men's forum, about some imagined amount of toxic vapor? What's next? Fashion tips? I'm done here.


I'll agree that there is plenty wrong in this world when it comes to what masculinity, femininity, and gender is, but it has NOTHING to do with debating misting off of a running chainsaw. Your conflation of the problem with men in this country with a desire to avoid exposure to harmful substances is absurd - I'll leave some other choice adjectives I had in mind out, I'm not trying to offend here.
Whether you smell or otherwise notice exposure to your bar oil during chainsaw use is irrelevant. It happens no matter how you hold your chainsaw to one degree or another. Air environment you're working in comes into play here, mostly wind direction.
Since your such a man, do you soak your hands in used motor oil when you change your oil (do you even change your own oil), do you inhale deeply downwind of the gas nozzle when filling your vehicle, do you drink like a fish, smoke like a chimney? People's ideas of what makes a real man really is seems to be warped on both sides of the isle...


----------



## Joisey (Jan 12, 2022)

ken morgan said:


> but I bet you don't get the funky booty hole do you? they are plusses and minus's to every situation... Just gotta look for the bright side of it.


Never used it for the intended purpose. It does make THE best treatment for severely cracked hands.


----------



## ken morgan (Jan 12, 2022)

PoplarSlayer said:


> I'll agree that there is plenty wrong in this world when it comes to what masculinity, femininity, and gender is, but it has NOTHING to do with debating misting off of a running chainsaw. Your conflation of the problem with men in this country with a desire to avoid exposure to harmful substances is absurd - I'll leave some other choice adjectives I had in mind out, I'm not trying to offend here.
> Whether you smell or otherwise notice exposure to your bar oil during chainsaw use is irrelevant. It happens no matter how you hold your chainsaw to one degree or another. Air environment you're working in comes into play here, mostly wind direction.
> Since your such a man, do you soak your hands in used motor oil when you change your oil (do you even change your own oil), do you inhale deeply downwind of the gas nozzle when filling your vehicle, do you drink like a fish, smoke like a chimney? People's ideas of what makes a real man really is seems to be warped on both sides of the isle...


I do not care about your first half of your first paragraph. well what if somebody does? The last two are straight up your desire to control someone. go back to you city and find a sex sub there... the rest of us are not interested. When does it become you right to tell them to stop? think about where you just went? I change my own oil, I get oil on my hands every single time due to piss poor placement of oil filters and drain plugs.... but it saves me money. I then use the oil in a shop heater that i designed to burn the waste oil. is it your business to stop me? basically mind your own business Karen.


----------



## ken morgan (Jan 12, 2022)

Joisey said:


> Never used it for the intended purpose. It does make THE best treatment for severely cracked hands.


There you go a little bit of Humor... nothing wrong with that. Life sucks...none of us will make it out of it alive.


----------



## Joisey (Jan 12, 2022)

Brufab said:


> Omg joisey, I am sorry to hear that! My wife has adrenal issues and can only imagine what you are experiencing. Take care buddy!



Thank you. Please give my best wishes to your wife. It's surely a long, very bumpy road.


----------



## Joisey (Jan 12, 2022)

ken morgan said:


> There you go a little bit of Humor... nothing wrong with that. Life sucks...none of us will make it out of it alive.





ken morgan said:


> Bro,
> 
> everyone's life's are different.. some pay up front, some pay later on in life... seems i been paying since day one.. **** it learn to laugh at life...flip it the finger, tell it to **** off and look for the silver lining... at least he will never have to worry about itchy bootyhole... thats pretty good in my books. remember the solemn vow...






ken morgan said:


> Bro,
> 
> everyone's life's are different.. some pay up front, some pay later on in life... seems i been paying since day one.. **** it learn to laugh at life...flip it the finger, tell it to **** off and look for the silver lining... at least he will never have to worry about itchy bootyhole... thats pretty good in my books. remember the solemn vow...
> 
> what happened to me was not through my ignorance or carelessness, it came about through negligence of my employer






ken morgan said:


> Bro,
> 
> everyone's life's are different.. some pay up front, some pay later on in life... seems i been paying since day one.. **** it learn to laugh at life...flip it the finger, tell it to **** off and look for the silver lining... at least he will never have to worry about itchy bootyhole... thats pretty good in my books. remember the solemn vow...



What happened to me was not through negligence on my part, it came about from me performing my job within the guidelines set forth by my employer, working 40 hours per week to support my family. I took responsibility for performing my job. My employer took none in me becoming ill while doing so. There is a special place in hell for people like that. Paying up front or later in life means nothing to me, as I am paying a debt I own no one.


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## ken morgan (Jan 13, 2022)

Joisey said:


> What happened to me was not through negligence on my part, it came about from me performing my job withing the guidelines set forth by my employer, working 40 hours per week to support my family. I took responsibility for performing my job. My employer took none in me becoming ill while doing so. There is a special place in hell for people like that. Paying up front or later in life means nothing to me, as I am paying a debt I own no one.


not trying to minimize your condiiton Josey...just a little dark humor on my part. honestly take care.


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## PoplarSlayer (Jan 18, 2022)

ken morgan said:


> I do not care about your first half of your first paragraph. well what if somebody does? The last two are straight up your desire to control someone. go back to you city and find a sex sub there... the rest of us are not interested. When does it become you right to tell them to stop? think about where you just went? I change my own oil, I get oil on my hands every single time due to piss poor placement of oil filters and drain plugs.... but it saves me money. I then use the oil in a shop heater that i designed to burn the waste oil. is it your business to stop me? basically mind your own business Karen.


You clearly didn't comprehend what I said. I'll say up front that you responding the way you did shows you to be challenged and/or projecting your own issues onto me. You make absolutely no sense at all. Sex sub? Trying to control others? Trying to stop you from changing your own oil? I'm a "Karen"? lol
I have my perspective on how messed up our society is when it comes to the notion of gender, masculinity, femininity, etc., which I hinted at in response to the other guy who apparently thinks being masculine means you expose yourself to harmful substances without concern. That's really besides the point. Go back and re-read what I posted within the context of the original post. If you're still confused I'll be happy to clarify for you.


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## ladnar (Jan 26, 2022)

OM617YOTA said:


> Some of you guys must value your time at absolutely nothing to be willing to go through that much hassle to replace $10/gal bar oil. How much of it are you using for it to be worth that kind of hassle?


I agree, it's like $10 bucks and is sticky and slimy, I like that for my chains and bars.


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## Okie294life (Feb 2, 2022)

OM617YOTA said:


> A significant amount of bar oil is aerosolized by the 60mph chain, and the operator winds up breathing it. That's the end of the discussion for me. No used engine oil in any saw I'm running.


?? I don’t know if I could buy into this I run leftover motor oil all the time for bar oil, it slings and creates a tiny amount of mist. I try to keep the bar out of my breathing zone…that’s it. I’d never run used oil. I fight clogging enough with leftover new oil, waste oils just going to clot up and continuously burn up bars and chains and put wear on pumps. Safety also could be a risk if you’re smoking bar all the time because of trash oil. It doesn’t take much of that to throw chain.


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## Gabriel1982 (Mar 10, 2022)

maowwg said:


> So at the risk of starting a war…
> 
> And just for fun....
> 
> ...


Short answer: NO. Unless you don't give a $h.t about your chainsaw. Or maybe it's not even your own chainsaw


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## Aknutter (Apr 16, 2022)

For those who are using canola oil as bar oil. Sam's club in Novi,MI, has Wesson canola oil in a 5 quart bottle for $13.45 limit of 5.


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## jakethesnake (Apr 17, 2022)

Target has it 6.50 a gallon shipped


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## jakethesnake (Apr 17, 2022)

Went up a dollar 7.50. Sorry guys. I’ve been using it


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## Gabriel1982 (Apr 17, 2022)

jakethesnake said:


> Went up a dollar 7.50. Sorry guys. I’ve been using it


Must be those russians and their oil to blame... 
Seriously,oil products and "by-products" will go up in next few months!


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## ChillyB (Apr 17, 2022)

Gabriel1982 said:


> Must be those russians and their oil to blame...
> Seriously,oil products and "by-products" will go up in next few months!


Byproducts of oil means EVERYTHING. Smoked turkey legs, shoe laces, fishing hooks…. Nothing gets produced, shipped, sold without requiring energy.


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## Gabriel1982 (Apr 17, 2022)

ChillyB said:


> Byproducts of oil means EVERYTHING. Smoked turkey legs, shoe laces, fishing hooks…. Nothing gets produced, shipped, sold without requiring energy.


Well ,yeah, those things I was talking about! And with no new investments in oil or gas for the future, inevitably energy and all oil dependent products WILL become expensive and stay that way! And I tend to agree since so many want "green energy"! I can only conclude : "ENJOY!"


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## mbrick (Apr 17, 2022)

jakethesnake said:


> Went up a dollar 7.50. Sorry guys. I’ve been using it


Link please?


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## Jonny Quest (Apr 17, 2022)

This is one of those "I just don't get it" threads. You can spend serious money on a saw and accessories and then you want to go "cheap" on the bar oil? Really? What am I missing? Bar oil isn't free, but it's certainly quite affordable. The same goes for el cheap-o 2 stroke oil. Buy a nice saw and then go cheap on the oil? The "life blood" of the saw? No thank you. Stepping over dollars to pick up dimes. 
JQ


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## mbrick (Apr 17, 2022)

100% agree. I would never run used motor oil in one of my saws. I would barely even run new motor oil, maybe if I had to make a cut and didn't have bar oil with me.
Tacky bar oil is the correct answer.


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## jakethesnake (Apr 18, 2022)

@mbrick not sure how to add a link but this here is what I got 



pretty sure if you punch canola oil target into whatever browser you’re using it should get you where you need to be

when I ordered I think I also picked up a dozen golf balls to meet the free shipping quota. Heck I’m sure there’s something you also need from target.


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## mbrick (Apr 18, 2022)

Oh, you were referring to canola oil and not bar oil. Ok, thanks... I will stick with bar oil.


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## jakethesnake (Apr 18, 2022)

Jonny Quest said:


> This is one of those "I just don't get it" threads. You can spend serious money on a saw and accessories and then you want to go "cheap" on the bar oil? Really? What am I missing? Bar oil isn't free, but it's certainly quite affordable. The same goes for el cheap-o 2 stroke oil. Buy a nice saw and then go cheap on the oil? The "life blood" of the saw? No thank you. Stepping over dollars to pick up dimes.
> JQ


Agree Jonny. I think some of the guys trying to save may be using quite a bit of bar oil. 

I was running hydraulic fluid in 5 gallon cans. Only reason I’m visiting canola is it’s cheaper if you use a lot of it. 
If a couple gallons is all the average fella uses in a year I’d recommend bar oil from tractor supply. 

my locals don’t have any bar oil in stock anywhere. They have husqvarna brand for nearly 20 a gallon but that doesn’t make sense for me. 

however you have made a very good point.


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## jakethesnake (Apr 18, 2022)

Walmart has bar oil for 10$ online now. Probably pretty smelly stuff but I’m sure it works fine. Never heard of the brand but it is available to ship. Pretty confident it’s recycled used oil. But it’s available if anyone is having trouble finding it


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## OM617YOTA (Apr 18, 2022)

I looked for bar oil at Target too. I don't need bar oil, but at $7.5/gal I'd grab a gallon or two.

For veggie oil, $7.5/gal is in range of the average daily price at Walmart, although I prefer not to give those guys my $$$$ either.


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## jakethesnake (Apr 18, 2022)

OM617YOTA said:


> I looked for bar oil at Target too. I don't need bar oil, but at $7.5/gal I'd grab a gallon or two.
> 
> For veggie oil, $7.5/gal is in range of the average daily price at Walmart, although I prefer not to give those guys my $$$$ either.


I didn’t clarify very well. My mistake fellers


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## camel2019 (Apr 18, 2022)

I have use used motor oil and vegetable oil in a poulan built jonsered that I found in the free pile one day used it to mostly cut up pallets for my bonfires.


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## alanbaker (Apr 19, 2022)

Brufab said:


> Black Walnut: The Killer Tree
> 
> 
> Juglone produced by black walnut trees can injure or kill susceptible plants. The symptoms include yellowing leaves, wilting and eventual death of those plants.
> ...


Another warning - don't use black walnut sawdust in horse stalls. Local wood worker drops us off bags of sawdust and always tells us if there is black walnut in there


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## mbrick (Apr 25, 2022)

$6 a gal bar oil for those nearby their stores:








All-Season Bar & Chain Oil, 1 Gallon - 80565-17431


Brand May Vary By Location.




www.ruralking.com


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## Campbellcontractlogging (Apr 25, 2022)

Philbert said:


> Not just your bar and chain. Also your oil pump.
> 
> Philbert


Destroys the worm gear it’s not worth it. I’ve trashed 2 saws oil pumps and worm gears like that.


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## sb47 (Apr 26, 2022)

Been running used oil for decades and never had an issue.
How much is an average OEM bar 40 bucks. How much is the cheapest bar oil on sale 6-7 bucks. How many gallons of the average 10 dollar oil does it take to equal a 40 dollar bar? 4 gallons. I have ran hundreds of gallons of used oil through the same saw with zero issues. At 10 bucks a gallon and 100 gallons of oil equals $1,000 At an average of 40 bucks per bar how many bars can you buy with $1,000 = 25 bars. I figure the risk of running used oil vs buying 25 bars per year puts me ahead by tens of thousands of dollars.
As for slinging the oil off, that does not equate to all the oil used. Most of the oil is dragged off by the saw dust, not slung off by the spinning chain.
If you are worried about dirty oil just use used hydraulic oil. Plenty of that can be had at any heavy equipment service center for free.


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## HansFranz (Apr 26, 2022)

sb47 said:


> Been running used oil for decades and never had an issue.
> How much is an average OEM bar 40 bucks. How much is the cheapest bar oil on sale 6-7 bucks. How many gallons of the average 10 dollar oil does it take to equal a 40 dollar bar? 4 gallons. I have ran hundreds of gallons of used oil through the same saw with zero issues. At 10 bucks a gallon and 100 gallons of oil equals $1,000 At an average of 40 bucks per bar how many bars can you buy with $1,000 = 25 bars. I figure the risk of running used oil vs buying 25 bars per year puts me ahead by tens of thousands of dollars.
> As for slinging the oil off, that does not equate to all the oil used. Most of the oil is dragged off by the saw dust, not slung off by the spinning chain.
> If you are worried about dirty oil just use used hydraulic oil. Plenty of that can be had at any heavy equipment service center for free.


Some heads gonna splode right soon


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## jakethesnake (Apr 26, 2022)

sb47 said:


> Been running used oil for decades and never had an issue.
> How much is an average OEM bar 40 bucks. How much is the cheapest bar oil on sale 6-7 bucks. How many gallons of the average 10 dollar oil does it take to equal a 40 dollar bar? 4 gallons. I have ran hundreds of gallons of used oil through the same saw with zero issues. At 10 bucks a gallon and 100 gallons of oil equals $1,000 At an average of 40 bucks per bar how many bars can you buy with $1,000 = 25 bars. I figure the risk of running used oil vs buying 25 bars per year puts me ahead by tens of thousands of dollars.
> As for slinging the oil off, that does not equate to all the oil used. Most of the oil is dragged off by the saw dust, not slung off by the spinning chain.
> If you are worried about dirty oil just use used hydraulic oil. Plenty of that can be had at any heavy equipment service center for free.


I’ve ran lots of used hydro oil. Have had no premature wear. Any oil will serve as bar oil.


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## camel2019 (Apr 26, 2022)

I now have a old steel stove oil can that has a mix of bar oil that came out of saws I buy and whenever I empty a jug I put it upside down and let it sit in the funnel for a while going to do the same with emptied sea30 emptied hydraulic oil and motorcycle oils. I’ve done this with emptied 10w-30 jugs for years but they go into a 5gal bucket let every last drop get used up.


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## OM617YOTA (Apr 26, 2022)

If I had a shop wood stove and didn't have neighbors, I'd have a waste oil dripper in the wood stove.


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## HansFranz (Apr 26, 2022)

OM617YOTA said:


> If I had a shop wood stove and didn't have neighbors, I'd have a waste oil dripper in the wood stove.


Check out Babington burners ... thinking of making one eventually. They allow you to burn waste oil in a jet but without the need to filter (and all the problems that go along with that) ... basically, you don't even have to fish the french fries out of the oil, because they just bounce off the burner...


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## OM617YOTA (Apr 26, 2022)

HansFranz said:


> Check out Babington burners ... thinking of making one eventually. They allow you to burn waste oil in a jet but without the need to filter (and all the problems that go along with that) ... basically, you don't even have to fish the french fries out of the oil, because they just bounce off the burner...


I'm familiar with them, just not something that'll work for my situation. One of the commercial waste oil heaters, installed to code and insurance compliant, would be a better option for me. It's way easier and cheaper to just take my waste oil to be recycled, and run a propane heater in the shop, so that's what I do.


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