# 4wd locking hubs: automatic or regular?



## mtfallsmikey (Feb 25, 2010)

Truck is an 81 GMC K-1500 4wd. Looks like it came with automatic locking hubs, having some issues with the hub on the driver's side....can I convert these to manual locking hubs?
Also...opinions wanted on good snow/off road tires, will be hanging a plow on this truck, need good traction in the snow.


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## indiansprings (Feb 25, 2010)

Check out warn's site to see if they sell conversion kits, if not look at the posi-lock option, just search posi-lock. My 95 dodge beater wood hauler has a pos vaccum hub locking system that's always giving me fits, it's goiong to be a posi-lock before next winter. Your either in or out via a cable control from the cab.


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## treemandan (Feb 25, 2010)

I would say yank the hub and check to see if its broken or soemthing, if not just grease it up and try it. I like a auto- hubs on my 91 f150. I just had them out and they seem fine. I have manual hubs of the F350 and it gets to be a pain. I feel very sorry for anyone rockin a vaccum actuated anything.
Finding a new set of manual hubs to replace the auto should be easy but probably gonna cost a few bucks.
If you have a u- pull- it junkyard go in there and grab every hub for your truck you can find.


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## gink595 (Feb 25, 2010)

I have automatic hubs on my 97 F350, I never liked them until I had one with them, I have 250K on this truck and they have never once failed me, I was for sure I would have had to replace them by now but they work great, If they ever do take a dump I will replace them with another set of automatic ones.

But yes Warn makes a conversion set for manaul hubs. I did one before I can't remember what is differnt but you do have to change some parts outs. I believe the locking nuts for thspindles is one part??


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## Pruitt1222 (Feb 25, 2010)

Auto hubs have teeth and springs in them that open up when torque is received from the differential, Kinda like a chainsaw recoil starter. They are nice for snow and ice driving but are horrible for serious wheeling. If you work it hard and pull often I would go with a warn premium manual lock out, thus you get 2 low if you really need it. You never know when you may need to pull a loaded semi, Plus if you do get stuck in the mud you dont have to worry about you hub if you rock it back in forth, this is a huge killer of autos Cause it slams the hub on and off. Another thing with auto hubs is after many miles of abuse and no service when you take it out of 4x4 the arms tend to stay stuck cause the springs cant retract them. So you can drive for days or months befor they finally release. As for snow tires I have recently gotten a pair of goodyear duratracs and in the snow they are far the best tires I have ever ran. Beat the mtrs I replaced them with hands down.


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## craddock (Feb 25, 2010)

in my opion stay with the auto locking hubs. I have had both. I converted a 83 chevy and its not hard to do. Just about every part store can get new locking hub kits but I found it a pain as sometimes when it is cold they don't want to lock in either. I do a lot of lowing for my company and now I use a 98 chevy but all of the trucks out here at our company use auto hubs and we have no issues. If you are having a problem you can pull that side apart and repair it pretty easy. Unless you are really going out for extreme 4wheeling I say auto. For the tires I would suggest about any fine treaded tire as they seem to do well in the snow. They are not any good for mud but great for the snow. A medium rough tread tire is decent for both, mud and snow. Just my 2 cents


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## outdoorlivin247 (Feb 25, 2010)

What model tranfer case is in the truck?...I am guessing it is a 203...If it is a 203 it is really an AWD truck...The front axle actually uses a flange style lockout that looks like an automatic hub...

If it has a 205 in it, buy a good set of Warn lockout and just lock them in BEFORE you get into trouble...


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## outdoorlivin247 (Feb 25, 2010)

As for tires, if money is not an issue you can't beat BFG All-Terrians for snow and ice...


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## Pruitt1222 (Feb 25, 2010)

Good point Outdoorlivin made about flange drive umits, I am not sure about chevy axles though. I know ford full floaters use flanges and if thats the case your in with a broken flange you got it made in the shade for repairing it. Its as simple as pulling the cover off and replacing the old with a new one. If it is a auto one thing you can check is if it was greased, the grease tends to fill the splines up so the arms cant lock up. Could be as easy as just cleaning them up and relubing with atf or gear oil.


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## wood4heat (Feb 25, 2010)

outdoorlivin247 said:


> As for tires, if money is not an issue you can't beat BFG All-Terrians for snow and ice...



:agree2: Whenever I've replaced tires on any my trucks I've gone with the BFG All Terrains and they've allways impressed me on snow packed and icy roads. If you're going to be running in unpacked snow their Mud Terrains are great.


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## mtfallsmikey (Feb 26, 2010)

Pruitt1222 said:


> Auto hubs have teeth and springs in them that open up when torque is received from the differential, Kinda like a chainsaw recoil starter. They are nice for snow and ice driving but are horrible for serious wheeling. If you work it hard and pull often I would go with a warn premium manual lock out, thus you get 2 low if you really need it. You never know when you may need to pull a loaded semi, Plus if you do get stuck in the mud you dont have to worry about you hub if you rock it back in forth, this is a huge killer of autos Cause it slams the hub on and off. Another thing with auto hubs is after many miles of abuse and no service when you take it out of 4x4 the arms tend to stay stuck cause the springs cant retract them. So you can drive for days or months befor they finally release. As for snow tires I have recently gotten a pair of goodyear duratracs and in the snow they are far the best tires I have ever ran. Beat the mtrs I replaced them with hands down.



This describes the problem I'm having with the left side hub...does not want to release on a dry raod, and when it does, it does it with a bang...I'm not doing any off-roading with the truck, other than going in the woods for firewood.


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## Pruitt1222 (Feb 26, 2010)

Just pull it apart and clean it and re oil it and put it back together, and if they continue to hang reversing is the best way to get them to release. If that doesn't cut it standard manual hubs are very easy to install and depending on your axle can be had for under 80 bucks. Premium warns hubs can be had for around 30-50 more then low end units. Both are still cheaper then a inner or outter axle shaft, and less work. I noticed some one said how hubs are hard to lock when its cold, Here is a tool I carry in my jeep that I got for free at jeep jamboree made for warn hubs. Sells for 10 buck, or if your handy you could probably fab something up that would do the same thing.


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## dh1984 (Feb 26, 2010)

well i took and busted one of my auto locking hubs and just decided to switch to warn manual locking hubs for my ranger. and i never have a problem when it's cold out side to lock them in. because i leave mine locked in 24/7 and never had a problem yet out of my front end knock on wood. but i would go to manual locking hubs they are a lot better then them auto locking hubs. and when i had them on my truck they gave me problems from day one. so a word of advice go get you some warn manual locking hubs.you'll never have a problem afther you put them on your truck.


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## TimberMcPherson (Feb 28, 2010)

I have had a few utes with auto hubs but they have a horrible habit of going south at the WORST time. My Isuzu NPR cabover and my Navara both have manual hubs. Comes in really handy when you want to use the low range but not have all 4 driving.


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