# Axe restoration thread



## svk

What do you guys think? Should we start a dedicated thread for axe restoration or keep posts in the splitting/chopping tool review thread?


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## dancan

Yup , new resto thread .

Here's a 3 1/5 lb 5$ yard sale find .







Now has a new 30" piece of hickory .


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## hanniedog

If you start a sticky might I suggest the first post be some of the manufactures to look for. Would be handy for those of us with little awareness of our axes


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## BusyBeaver

Yeah, I'd be interested, I'm working on a Kelly I found right now.
BB


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## svk

It would be up to the powers that be to make this a sticky. 

I have several name brand as well as others that only God knows the maker.


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## svk

dancan said:


> Yup , new resto thread .
> 
> Here's a 3 1/5 lb 5$ yard sale find .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now has a new 30" piece of hickory .


Ooh look at that grain!!


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## svk

Here's 6 hours worth of vinegar bath on a very crusty head.


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## 7sleeper

I only use a steel brush on an angle grinder. Finished in minutes with equal good results.

7


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## svk

Pulled this out of the vinegar this morning (it was spotless grey) and washed it up and then dried it. Within an hour it had a skim of rust on it. I'll soak it one more time when the mail comes out then immediately rub with oil.


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## svk

Also, thanks to whichever mod made this a sticky!


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## dancan

hanniedog said:


> If you start a sticky might I suggest the first post be some of the manufactures to look for. Would be handy for those of us with little awareness of our axes



It's hard to say which ones to go for , there's plenty of good axes out there that were unbranded , Gransfors Bruk for example made tons of unstamped heads for export .
Best I can say is to stay away from anything that had a fiberglass handle and one that has been beat to death , the prices on the Bay seem a little high so I do the local yard/estate sales , local buy and sell ads and word of mouth to local pickers .
I try to keep this hobby as cheap as I can , 5$ to 20$ for a head is reasonable to me and handles range from 5$ to 20$ for handles but the nice Scandinavian handles range from 20$ to 40$ .


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## dancan

5$ hatchet 











2$ hatchet on a 15$ handle






That 2$ head is unmarked , rough forged but well hardened and my instincts say Scandinavian but that's only a guess .
Here's a 5$ 2 lb Hults Bruk on a yard sale find ash handle purchased for 1$ that was 5$ when new .
















I've got plenty more hatchets and axes lol


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## Homelitexl903

svk said:


> What do you guys think? Should we start a dedicated thread for axe restoration or keep posts in the splitting/chopping tool review thread?


I think this is a great idea. I live in the state that was the axe making capital of the world at one time I think and have plenty of projects for the winter. I have already learned a few tricks I plan on using from smaller threads, so a dedicated thread will be useful.


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## dancan

Homelitexl903 said:


> I think this is a great idea. I live in the state that was the axe making capital of the world at one time I think and have plenty of projects for the winter. I have already learned a few tricks I plan on using from smaller threads, so a dedicated thread will be useful.


Don't forget to put up some pics and what you know about them [emoji3]


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## Homelitexl903

I plan on it. There is a guy a few towns up north I want to meet that is an axe junkie. Also a Maine axe historian is about an hour north from me and I will try to meet up with him when things slow down and share what I learn and take pictures.


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## dancan

Sadly, I don't have a genuine Maine wedge in my small collection [emoji24]


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## Homelitexl903

My wife grew up next to my grandfathers farm. We found this old wedge among other things out back. It's the rusty odd shaped one


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## Dawnsman

I agree with the new thread

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## rarefish383




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## svk

Got the surface rust off and hit it with a coat of oil right away to prevent any additional rust.


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## svk

Got the Truper cleaned up as well. 

Does this head look upside down or has anyone seen a head with a high point like this? It's definitely straight from the factory.


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## dancan

Looks upside-down , even the writing


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## svk

dancan said:


> Looks upside-down , even the writing


Good catch!


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## svk

And it's a Craftsman head on a Truper handle. Must have seen a previous life before it arrived at my friend's cabin.


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## rarefish383

Factory error. Used to get big money for base ball cards with factory errors. Then they started to spit out error cards faster than they could print them.

Heading up to the farm in a couple hours. Maybe I'll get lucky and find a couple of nice doubles, Joe.


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## DSW

I don't use an axe much and I'm not a collector type. 

But I could use a good wedge pounder. Perfect size, some curve to the handle. Big enough to two hand, small enough to one hand.


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## lead farmer

DSW said:


> I don't use an axe much and I'm not a collector type.
> 
> But I could use a good wedge pounder. Perfect size, some curve to the handle. Big enough to two hand, small enough to one hand.









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## DSW

That's a beaut. I like quite a bit more curve on the handle. Stihl, whoever makes Stihl, has one that's perfect but I prefer vintage until it stops making sense.


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## rarefish383

Well Doug on Forged in Fire, would say my Fiskars "Will Cut". I was splitting up a big Oak on the hill in my back yard. I was spitting one round, then throwing the splits on the trailer. I set the Fiskars down and started tossing splits in. I felt a little "bump" on my ankle, looked down, and the ax was stuck in my ankle. Little cut about an inch long. Looked like a surgeon sliced it open. I was wearing my crocks and a pair of short running socks, the ax slid down the hill and stopped at my foot.. I went out to finish up today and put on heavy socks and my hiking boots. You can yell at me now, but at 96 degrees, I'm still not putting on the chaps, Joe.


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## rarefish383

Oh, I found an old Plumb single in my shed. Pretty bad shape, edge rusted, just the head. I might try to polish it, haven't decided yet, Joe.


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## BusyBeaver

I am putting a handle into a Kelly jersey style axehead that was abused as a wedge. The eye is buckled and swollen. What is the best way to fill the eye with the handle? Wooden wedge? Metal wedge? Epoxy, Bondo, linseed oil?
I've seen pictures of perfectly filled eyes (several posts back) and would love to make mine that good. Should I soak the handle in linseed oil before installation or after installation?
I did find an oversize handle with plenty of meat.
Thanks,
BB


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## rarefish383

I think if I wanted to try something like that for the first time, I'd get a role of the tape welders use to isolate heat. Looks like asbestos. Wrap the cutting edge about half way up, take a torch and heat it up cherry red around the hole and tap it back in shape. But, I don't know what I'm doing and if that would ruin any heat treating. That's just what I would try, Joe.


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## dancan

I've not dealt with a deformed ax eye yet but if I had to I'd polly just heat the head cherry red , beat it straight and then figure out how to temper it .
It's no good now so go for it.


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## olyman

BusyBeaver said:


> I am putting a handle into a Kelly jersey style axehead that was abused as a wedge. The eye is buckled and swollen. What is the best way to fill the eye with the handle? Wooden wedge? Metal wedge? Epoxy, Bondo, linseed oil?
> I've seen pictures of perfectly filled eyes (several posts back) and would love to make mine that good. Should I soak the handle in linseed oil before installation or after installation?
> I did find an oversize handle with plenty of meat.
> Thanks,
> BB


do what joe and dancan said,, heat up..and pound back into place. heating both sides,,and alternately pound on the sides.... it aint like your going to use it for taking down trees.......


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## ray benson

Need to put a handle on this Bell System B hatchet head. The edge is dulled from the factory. Not sure if I should sharpen it? Got it as my late FIL worked for AT&T and started as a lineman sometime in the 1950's.


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## svk

ray benson said:


> Need to put a handle on this Bell System B hatchet head. The edge is dulled from the factory. Not sure if I should sharpen it? Got it as my late FIL worked for AT&T and started as a lineman sometime in the 1950's.View attachment 593676


Looks great. Those are sharpened in a different manner/angle so may want to get tips from someone in the know.


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## rarefish383

Cool hatchet. What's the square lug for? I was trying to remember if the screw in steps on the poles were square on the end? My Uncle worked for AT&T for 40 years, I think he did installations, Joe.


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## ray benson

Read the poles had square headed bolts and nuts that could be tightened with the square hole in hatchet. Wondered if they sharpened the thick dull edge or they left it dull?


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## Marine5068

ray benson said:


> Need to put a handle on this Bell System B hatchet head. The edge is dulled from the factory. Not sure if I should sharpen it? Got it as my late FIL worked for AT&T and started as a lineman sometime in the 1950's.View attachment 593676


I was thinking that too. The square climbing pegs and the nuts on through bolts would be able to be tightened with the square hole in the hatchet.


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## Mad Professor

Hello Everyone.

I need some new _working _single bit axes. I keep my eye out at tag sales and farm auctions.

What I need a a couple of LARGE traditional single bit splitting heads, and a smaller one for driving wedges while felling trees. They DO NOT have to be pretty, but good steel and restorable. Nothing thrown in the fireplace to clean the remnants of the handle. Just some good American or European steel.

PM me if you have some.

Thanks, MP


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## svk

Pm sent. Happy to help if I can.


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## dancan

Mad Professor said:


> Hello Everyone.
> 
> I need some new _working _single bit axes. I keep my eye out at tag sales and farm auctions.
> 
> What I need a a couple of LARGE traditional single bit splitting heads, and a smaller one for driving wedges while felling trees. They DO NOT have to be pretty, but good steel and restorable. Nothing thrown in the fireplace to clean the remnants of the handle. Just some good American or European steel.
> 
> PM me if you have some.
> 
> Thanks, MP



If you'd have only asked a few months ago .







Which is a 5lb 






But now


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## dancan

The next resto project 






Another 5$ Wetterlings , looks to be 3lbs .


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## dancan

Here's a 5$ Wetterlings that I redid a couple of months ago .






about 2 1/4 lbs set on a 30" piece of hickory .


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## dancan

That 2 1/4 Wetterlings head was set on a 13" handle , I managed to save it and rehandled a 1 1/4 Hults Bruks head .


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## LondonNeil

You repeatedly find Wetterlings for $5? Jeez. I guess Nova Scotia is better hunting ground for such things than London, but blimey that's some going! Handle looks great btw.


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## dancan

Thanks Neil , I believe that back in the day the Swede imports were like the Chinese imports of today but the difference was back then it was a quality product .
I get most of my best handles from a Hultafors distributor , American hickory but manufactured in Sweden .


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## buzz sawyer

svk said:


> Got the surface rust off and hit it with a coat of oil right away to prevent any additional rust.
> 
> View attachment 588902


Looks good - Did you do anything to neutralize the acid? Rub some baking soda on it or wash with soap and water?


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## svk

buzz sawyer said:


> Looks good - Did you do anything to neutralize the acid? Rub some baking soda on it or wash with soap and water?


Just rinsed well with water then towel dried and immediately oiled. 

If you don't oil immediately it will rust again within hours.


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## Multifaceted

Greetings, all:

First time poster here, figured this would be the best thread since I'm a becoming a full-fledged axe junkie. Here are some of the projects I've completed this year, hopefully it is not too picture heavy... I have many, many more in the works.

Mann Knot Klipper 4.25 lb Double Bit Western or Penn Pattern:








---------------------------------
Some unknown Hudson Bay Pattern, was in bad shape...








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An unknown Jersey type pattern with rounds lugs:








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Council Tool Rockaway-Jersey 3.5 lb:








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Shapleigh Hardware Co. Diamond Edge Lugged Single Bit:


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## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Greetings, all:
> 
> First time poster here, figured this would be the best thread since I'm a becoming a full-fledged axe junkie. Here are some of the projects I've completed this year, hopefully it is not too picture heavy... I have many, many more in the works.
> 
> Mann Knot Klipper 4.25 lb Double Bit Western or Penn Pattern:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Some unknown Hudson Bay Pattern, was in bad shape...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> An unknown Jersey type pattern with rounds lugs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------
> 
> Council Tool Rockaway-Jersey 3.5 lb:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------
> 
> Shapleigh Hardware Co. Diamond Edge Lugged Single Bit:


Welcome to the site! Really nice collection you have!


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## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Welcome to the site! Really nice collection you have!


Thank you kindly! These are just the ones I've restored, I have others that we use regularly around the property. I just dig vintage ones, restore them as gifts or to sell, but keep the ones I like. Cheers

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## H-Ranch

Multifaceted said:


> I just dig vintage ones, restore them as gifts...


Will you be my friend?

Seriously - nice arsenal!


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## Multifaceted

H-Ranch said:


> Will you be my friend?
> 
> Seriously - nice arsenal!



Sure, if you like old tools, cutting firewood, and razor sharp axes - then yes, we can be friends!

Thank you! Some of my other axes in the arsenal that we use often are Council FSS Pulaski, Wetterlings Hudson Bay (personal favorite), and Helko Spaltaxt. Both Jerseys in my first post were gifts to old friends, but I've got a bitchin' one that I'm keeping for myself and will hang it on a 36" straight shaft (it's actually next on my list because I want to use it so badly).

Here are some upcoming axe projects on deck:





From left-to-right and zig-zagging down:

Collins Commander (Mann era) 3lb, Council 2.5 lb cruiser, Collins Legitimus 4 lb double bit Michigan, unkown 4.5" wedge bit, Craftsman 3.5 lb (Yankee?), Matchless 2.5" boys axe, Kelly Perfect 3.5 lb Jersey w/ Phantom Bevels (Oooh yeaaaah), Kelly Flint Edge Yankee (or is it a Michigan?), and last a Fulton 3.75 lb.

I'm going to hang the Kelly Perfect Jersey next, then the Matchless boys axe and Collins Legitimus Double Bit are Xmas gifts for my brother-in-law. The Legitimus I'm going to hang on a 32" haft. After those I'll put a new handle and remove the paint on the Council cruiser because they are just freakin' cool, I'm keeping that one too like the Kelley Jersey. The Collins commander and Cruiser both have decent handles, but the hanging jobs are crap and have been "fixed" with metal step wedges... no me gusta. The Collins Commander only has an aluminum wedge that has been driven in too far. Not going to enjoy removing that...


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## Woodyjiw

How's this for an early birthday gift from my fiance? 3$ at an estate sale. Best $3 she has ever spent!!!
I'm thinking it might be a splitting axe but I'm not sure. It's heavy, thinking around 6#, I was comparing it to my 8# beater (sledgehammer).

Any info is appreciated

















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## Multifaceted

Woodyjiw said:


> How's this for an early birthday gift from my fiance? 3$ at an estate sale. Best $3 she has ever spent!!!
> I'm thinking it might be a splitting axe but I'm not sure. It's heavy, thinking around 6#, I was comparing it to my 8# beater (sledgehammer).
> 
> Any info is appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Nice Plumb! Looks like a Connecticut pattern. About how much does it weigh?

Edit: I see the phantom bevels now. Also, it appears to be more of a felling axe (doesn't mean that you can't split with it).

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## Woodyjiw

Multifaceted said:


> Nice Plumb! Looks like a Connecticut pattern. About how much does it weigh?
> 
> Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk


Thinking around 6 pounds.

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## Multifaceted

Woodyjiw said:


> Thinking around 6 pounds.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Whooo boy, that's a biggin' - nice find! Get that rust off, hang it on a new straight grain Hickory handle and put an edge on it!

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## Woodyjiw

Multifaceted said:


> Whooo boy, that's a biggin' - nice find! Get that rust off, hang it on a new straight grain Hickory handle and put an edge on it!
> 
> Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk


Thanks, just got it yesterday and I'm on the road to Colorado now. I'll get after it when I get back.

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## Multifaceted

Woodyjiw said:


> Thanks, just got it yesterday and I'm on the road to Colorado now. I'll get after it when I get back.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


You need to reevaluate your priorities, man... (kidding)

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## Woodyjiw

Multifaceted said:


> You need to reevaluate your priorities, man... (kidding)
> 
> Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk


Trying to fill the freezer with another one of these bad boys...






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## rarefish383

Priorities are right, Joe.


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## Woodyjiw

Multifaceted said:


> Nice Plumb! Looks like a Connecticut pattern. About how much does it weigh?
> 
> Edit: I see the phantom bevels now. Also, it appears to be more of a felling axe (doesn't mean that you can't split with it).
> 
> Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk


I was guessing because of the weight it might have been a splitting axe. But I really don't know to much about them and definitely appreciate the info... Thanks

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## dancan

I haven't run across too many Plumbs up here but here's some info
http://yesteryearstools.com/Yesteryears Tools/Plumb Co..html


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## Multifaceted

Woodyjiw said:


> I was guessing because of the weight it might have been a splitting axe. But I really don't know to much about them and definitely appreciate the info... Thanks
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


While you could be right, typically splitting axes tend to have convex or wedge shaped bits, similar to a maul but weigh less; though I could also be wrong there as well. The weight and shape of the head says Connecticut to me. Definitely a badass axe, and a Plumb to boot. Would love to have that beast on my rack.


dancan said:


> I haven't run across too many Plumbs up here but here's some info
> http://yesteryearstools.com/Yesteryears Tools/Plumb Co..html


Same here, that sure is a dandy find, though.

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## dancan

Look up the "Maine wedge" or that Aroostock ax article in (I believe) from a 1920's boys scouts manual , they describe a perfect ax with a wedge shape.
I think skilcult makes mention of it in one of his YouTube vids. 
He's got some pretty good stuff on his channel (no affiliation) .


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## DSW

LondonNeil said:


> You repeatedly find Wetterlings for $5? Jeez. I guess Nova Scotia is better hunting ground for such things than London, but blimey that's some going! Handle looks great btw.



No kidding. 

My local Craigslist is awful but luckily we do have some old time shops and flea markets where you can come across some nice 'cordless' tools. Nothing to that extent though.


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## dancan

LondonNeil said:


> You repeatedly find Wetterlings for $5? Jeez. I guess Nova Scotia is better hunting ground for such things than London, but blimey that's some going! Handle looks great btw.



Here's some of the finds 






There's at least 10 Swedes in that pic , I have more lol


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## rarefish383

I think I just ruined my screen? I was putting a circle around each ax head trying to count them, and the marker won't wipe off, Joe.


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## dancan

Someday I'll gather up all of them and take a group photo lol
I only have 5 axes/mauls that I paid retail, the other 25 to 35 are deals/trades and restos with the price from 5$ to 10$ , the handles usually cost me the most .
I've also given away a dozen or so .
The month of September is usually the best yardsale month up here .


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> While you could be right, typically splitting axes tend to have convex or wedge shaped bits, similar to a maul but weigh less; though I could also be wrong there as well. The weight and shape of the head says Connecticut to me. Definitely a badass axe, and a Plumb to boot. Would love to have that beast on my rack.Same here, that sure is a dandy find, though.
> 
> Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk


We're about you located at man. I'm in sc pa as well [emoji38]
Here's a couple of mine





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## tla100

Picked up a Chopper 1 mechanical axe

chopper1axe.com

and a neat looking splitting axe. Also a hatchet that is offset, flat on right side and taperss on left. i think for shingling with old cedar shakes. "True Temper Flint Edge" stamped on it. Got that in vinegar and looking for a handle yo give to my brother. Old handle is split from bottom of handle and missing the top 1/3. Would have pics but photobucket sucks more now.

Great uncle moving sale....


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## svk

That chopper 1 is an interesting tool for sure. Do the wings still work on yours?


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## dancan

Was out at a yardsale this am 






It has the blue paint that the Swede axes have , 3$


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## svk

We know vinegar works for rust removal. Has anyone tried ammonia?


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## dancan

I've played a bit with electrolysis but no ammonia .
I've been lucky , most of mine turn out fairly clean after I do any file/grinder work to clean up any of the burrs and damage from abuse , by the time I get them rehandled and coated with blo/tung oil or what ever I'm gonna use the heads will have most of it's original patina with minimal shine from the touchups .
I don't particularly like a shiny axehead and didn't like the finish look from the derusting process .


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## tla100

svk said:


> That chopper 1 is an interesting tool for sure. Do the wings still work on yours?



One side is a little sticky but still moves. Other side moves free. Needs a little cleaning/lube but not bad overall condition. Uncle said he didn't like it or use it much. I think on small diameter straight wood it split ok.


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## svk

I think many of those were received as/purchased for gifts as they were billed to be the next best thing. Cool find though.


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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> We're about you located at man. I'm in sc pa as well [emoji38]
> Here's a couple of mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Just south of Fairfield, Adams Co. Nice work, duder - got a soft spot for Hudson Bay axes? They're a personal favorite of mine. I've got a lead in Sweden for a sweet old Gransfors or Hults Bruk hoping to get a hold of soon.


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Just south of Fairfield, Adams Co. Nice work, duder - got a soft spot for Hudson Bay axes? They're a personal favorite of mine. I've got a lead in Sweden for a sweet old Gransfors or Hults Bruk hoping to get a hold of soon.


The one up from the bottom is a GB with a homemade locust handle i made for her

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## Bogeybrown

Hiya Gents,

For several years I've used the site as a learning resource but never joined. I finally got tired of not being able to view pictures in some threads and signed up. 
I've always appreciated a proper axe, having manually split wood since I was a pre teen. I got pretty frustrated at the overall crappy quality of Chinese axes available in the States these days so my lady and I have been hitting flea markets for a while looking for a decent old American steel project. She brought this guy home for me last weekend:



I got it mostly cleaned up in some vinegar and put a new Truper handle on it and a which sharpen just to get a feel for the steel. 





As rusted as it was I wasn't expecting to find any markings on it, but as best as I can tell it's an old Collins USM?

Any further info y'all may have on it would be appreciated.


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## svk

I'm not sure about the stamp, but welcome to the site!


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## Bogeybrown

svk said:


> I'm not sure about the stamp, but welcome to the site!



Thanks. I haven't found much info on it either.


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## svk

Bogeybrown said:


> Thanks. I haven't found much info on it either.


Are you on Facebook? There is a page called "Axe and Woodworking Appreciation" and those guys almost certainly could help you.


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## Bogeybrown

I try to avoid social media. This forum and a shooting forum are about the extent of my online presence, but that's a good suggestion, thank you.


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## rarefish383

Welcome aboard.


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## ray benson

Collins usm 3 1/2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-COL...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


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## svk

Pretty good prices on the "comparable items" ads on ebay, if a guy ever needed a spare head.


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## Bogeybrown

rarefish383 said:


> Welcome aboard.



Thanks, I appreciate it. I spend a few hours a day cruising around and reading old threads. The collection of knowledge, sarcasm,and wicked ballbreaking is epic. Definitely my kind of place


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## tnichols

Bogeybrown said:


> Thanks, I appreciate it. I spend a few hours a day cruising around and reading old threads. The collection of knowledge, sarcasm,and wicked ballbreaking is epic. Definitely my kind of place



Hello good friend and welcome. I'm over here a bit more this time of year as we approach the "season" for proper saw and processing work i.e. cooler temps.

Bogey is salt of the earth fellas and glad to see him pop up here!


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## Bogeybrown

tnichols said:


> Hello good friend and welcome. I'm over here a bit more this time of year as we approach the "season" for proper saw and processing work i.e. cooler temps.
> 
> Bogey is salt of the earth fellas and glad to see him pop up here!



LMAO, Hey buddy, great running into you over here! I'm having a blast figuring out all the things I never knew I never knew.


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## Multifaceted

Bogeybrown said:


> Hiya Gents,
> 
> For several years I've used the site as a learning resource but never joined. I finally got tired of not being able to view pictures in some threads and signed up.
> I've always appreciated a proper axe, having manually split wood since I was a pre teen. I got pretty frustrated at the overall crappy quality of Chinese axes available in the States these days so my lady and I have been hitting flea markets for a while looking for a decent old American steel project. She brought this guy home for me last weekend:
> View attachment 601120
> 
> 
> I got it mostly cleaned up in some vinegar and put a new Truper handle on it and a which sharpen just to get a feel for the steel. View attachment 601122
> View attachment 601123
> 
> View attachment 601124
> 
> 
> As rusted as it was I wasn't expecting to find any markings on it, but as best as I can tell it's an old Collins USM?
> 
> Any further info y'all may have on it would be appreciated.



Not 100% sure on the stamp, but it certainly looks like a Cedar Axe pattern. This style of axe was developed for migrant workers from Mexico to clear cedar in TX, one of the last patterns to be developed before the axe was supplanted by the chainsaw. Either that or the Tasmanian pattern was the last, I don't really know for sure.


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## Multifaceted

Here's a 2.5 lb Matchless Boys Axe I restored for my brother-in-law, one of my best hangs yet.


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## svk

Very impressive as per your usual!


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## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Very impressive as per your usual!


Many thanks! Probably hard to tell from the picture, but it is shaving sharp too, as are all my axes... and I have the forearms to prove it 

I recently was on vacation with my wife and dogs in Appalachia and scored a nice Collins Brush Hook, and some unknown maker One-Man Crosscut saw. I'll post some pics as I get further along, the crosscut saw requires a wealth of knowledge to understand not only to use, but to refurbish.


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Here's a 2.5 lb Matchless Boys Axe I restored for my brother-in-law, one of my best hangs yet.


Very well down man 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## LondonNeil

that is beautiful! love the colour of the head and the handle. i assume its hickory but looks orangy brown, did you stain it?


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## LondonNeil

dancan said:


> Was out at a yardsale this am
> 
> It has the blue paint that the Swede axes have , 3$



If i send you 20 Can$ cold you send me 1 x quality swedish hatchet head, 1 x quality swedish felling axe head and 1 x quality swedish splitting axe head please? No rush, i know it'll take you a week or maybe 2 to find them.


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## dancan

Neil , I'm not sure if I have any spares lol











These followed me home , honest .
7.50 Canadian copecs each , both handles are good to use


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## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> that is beautiful! love the colour of the head and the handle. i assume its hickory but looks orangy brown, did you stain it?



Thank you, the head was rust blued to get the black oxidation and color. Yes, the handle is stained, it was bone white hickory with a sliver of dark heartwood. The color stain is called "Gunstock", and I really like the look of it against the dark black blueing or a nice natural patina. After repeated coats of oil, the nicks and dings of the handle don't show the brighter unstained wood as much and forms a really nice character over time.



dancan said:


> Neil , I'm not sure if I have any spares lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These followed me home , honest .
> 7.50 Canadian copecs each , both handles are good to use



Wow, nice pick-ups! Find a lot of those up there?


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## dancan

The Hults Bruks are pretty common up here .
I've not seen that rockaway/jersey pattern up here until this year , that is only the second one I've seen , I bought the first one I found this summer for 10$


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## Multifaceted

dancan said:


> The Hults Bruks are pretty common up here .
> I've not seen that rockaway/jersey pattern up here until this year , that is only the second one I've seen , I bought the first one I found this summer for 10$



I don't see much Hults Bruk down my way, only a few that I passed up before I had a clue...

Jerserys and lugged patterns in general are a personal favorite of mine. Been on the hunt for a handle with a 2-3/8" x 3/4" eye to fit my Kelly Perfect Beveled Jersey, but no luck. Tried hanging it on a typical 2-1/4" x 3/4" handle but couldn't close the gaps at the point of the teardrop near the shoulder (eye opening is longer), so I abandoned the hang on that. Might have to just make a custom handle, just need to find a good piece of Hickory stock. Coincidentally I have lots of hickory growing near me, but don't need to fell any of it, nor do I have access to a mill.

Do you collect Hudson Bay?


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## svk

Do you guys like the extra lugs on the Jersey patterns? I've only had one of them (and it was non collectible) and ground the lugs off so I could fit the handle on it easier.


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## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Do you guys like the extra lugs on the Jersey patterns? I've only had one of them (and it was non collectible) and ground the lugs off so I could fit the handle on it easier.



I like them for two reasons, aesthetically it lends an old world look; however, for the utilitarian in me the lugs provide more metal to wood contact which _*feels*_ like a more secure fit. I'm not 100% certain that is the case, but they sure as heck make it seem that way when trying to beat the head off of the handle to rasp/sand for your next fit 

Whenever I hang a lugged axe and get it shouldered up on the final fit, the hang always feel more tight and secure even before I pound in and seat the wedge. Could be a placebo, I don't know, but sure seems that way. The lugs do make a little more difficult to hang, requires some strategic rasping, and I've also been known to file the inside of the lugs so they're slightly rounded. The key is finding a good handle where the eye measurements are mated up nicely to the eye of the head. Though, that isn't always the case, unless you make your own handles...


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## svk

Makes a lot of sense. I was trying to fit a big box store handle (with the wood that flares out below the head) so it wasn't working so well with limited hand tools.


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## Multifaceted

Having specialty or proper wood tools can help, but I've found that a regular ol' 4-In-Hand file rasp is indispensable when it comes to hanging axes. For custom fitting a head, there is no better tool, IMHO.


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## dancan

Here's the one I found earlier this summer







I hung it on a replacement 30" from a Hultafors , plenty of wood to fill the eye .






I can buy from the Hultafors distributor up here , LeeValley stock them and the Gransfors Bruks replacement handles as well .
I don't have any Hudson Bay .
My 5$ yardsale belt sander gets used a lot for fitting the heads .


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## svk

I have one Hudson bay pattern that likes to slip out of the handle even well wedged that I shared a while back. This fall I am going to pop it off the present handle and seat it so the top of the handle extends above the head and then wedge the hell out of it.


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## lead farmer

svk said:


> I have one Hudson bay pattern that likes to slip out of the handle even well wedged that I shared a while back. This fall I am going to pop it off the present handle and seat it so the top of the handle extends above the head and then wedge the hell out of it.


That is how I found to keep th HB tight

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Multifaceted

svk said:


> I have one Hudson bay pattern that likes to slip out of the handle even well wedged that I shared a while back. This fall I am going to pop it off the present handle and seat it so the top of the handle extends above the head and then wedge the hell out of it.



This is how I've been hanging axes after seeing and using a few Swedish makers. Especially if BLO is used to swell the wood grain, the wood and wedge above the eye 'fans ' out basically making any movement upward virtually impossible, if not just very difficult. I have tried several times to do without it to no avail; but by adding a little quality wood glue to the wedge or some Swel-Lock keeps the wood wedge from "walking" out after repeated strikes. For a while I was trying to hang without the use of modern glues or products, much like they did in antiquity, but evidently that knowledge has died with all but a few craftsmen, and they ain't me.



lead farmer said:


> That is how I found to keep th HB tight



I really think it makes a difference, and it looks cool to boot! How does that homemade Locust handle do with percussion strikes versus Hickory or Ash?


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## Multifaceted

dancan said:


> Here's the one I found earlier this summer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hung it on a replacement 30" from a Hultafors , plenty of wood to fill the eye .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can buy from the Hultafors distributor up here , LeeValley stock them and the Gransfors Bruks replacement handles as well .
> I don't have any Hudson Bay .
> My 5$ yardsale belt sander gets used a lot for fitting the heads .




That's a slick looking Jersey, probably my favorite do-all heavy axe pattern. How's that short handle work for you with that (3.5 lb/1600 g?) head and broad cutting face? I used to use a belt sander too, but have been using a 4-In-Hand lately because on most fits I can keep the handle locked in the vise, fit the head, remove and continue removing material without opening the vise jaws. I've also been known to get a little overboard with power tools too, ha ha


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> This is how I've been hanging axes after seeing and using a few Swedish makers. Especially if BLO is used to swell the wood grain, the wood and wedge above the eye 'fans ' out basically making any movement upward virtually impossible, if not just very difficult. I have tried several times to do without it to no avail; but by adding a little quality wood glue to the wedge or some Swel-Lock keeps the wood wedge from "walking" out after repeated strikes. For a while I was trying to hang without the use of modern glues or products, much like they did in antiquity, but evidently that knowledge has died with all but a few craftsmen, and they ain't me.
> 
> 
> 
> I really think it makes a difference, and it looks cool to boot! How does that homemade Locust handle do with percussion strikes versus Hickory or Ash?


I really can't tell you, it seems to feel good what little I have used it. I'm sure there's a reason our ancestors didn't use it

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## farmer steve

lead farmer said:


> I really can't tell you, it seems to feel good what little I have used it. I'm sure there's a reason our ancestors didn't use it
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


figured i find you here Rod.  i guess i have to get a handle for that axe i showed you at cedar grove. hope all is well.


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## lead farmer

farmer steve said:


> figured i find you here Rod.  i guess i have to get a handle for that axe i showed you at cedar grove. hope all is well.


Yah I thought you were giving me that by the way. Good to hear from you man [emoji38]

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## dancan

Multifaceted said:


> That's a slick looking Jersey, probably my favorite do-all heavy axe pattern. How's that short handle work for you with that (3.5 lb/1600 g?) head and broad cutting face? I used to use a belt sander too, but have been using a 4-In-Hand lately because on most fits I can keep the handle locked in the vise, fit the head, remove and continue removing material without opening the vise jaws. I've also been known to get a little overboard with power tools too, ha ha


I'm not a big fan of the long handles, 30" and the weight makes it a good chopper and wedge pounder for me.


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## Multifaceted

Alright fellas, here's one my recent projects completed - Council Tool 2.5 lb Cruiser:


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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> I really can't tell you, it seems to feel good what little I have used it. I'm sure there's a reason our ancestors didn't use it
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



Locust is pretty damn hard and dense, can't see why it's be a bad choice. Maybe not as springy as hickory, so percussive striking might cause it to snap.



dancan said:


> I'm not a big fan of the long handles, 30" and the weight makes it a good chopper and wedge pounder for me.



Got ya, yeah and that flat square poll on the Jersey is perfect for wedge pounding. I'm currently using my 2.5 lb Hudson bay as my pounder, keep it in a scabbard on my saw belt.


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## rarefish383

Dang you and those pretty doubles! Now I have to see if I can figure out how to post pics again. One of my favorites is a turn of the century, the last one, American Beauty. They may have been store name axes but I like mine with it's original handle and leather scabbard. I think my wife's grandfather may have made the scabbard. Then there is my Collins with its original handle. So, lets see if i got this right, Joe.


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## rarefish383

Nope, didn't work, try something else.


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## rarefish383

That's close, I don't know how to get the full size pic up, but the thumb nail beats nothing, Joe.


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## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> That's close, I don't know how to get the full size pic up, but the thumb nail beats nothing, Joe.


No worries, I can see the full sized pic - you just have to click on the thumbnail. Nice looking stuff, got any info on the makers?


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## rarefish383

One more for now, Joe.


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## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> One more for now, Joe.


That Plumb double is a dandy - when are you gonna get that rust off and put a new handle on it?


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## rarefish383

In the picture of 4, the first is the American Beauty, was my wife's grandfathers. The second with the handle that shows good stain, is my Collins Legitmus. One side of the head the blueing is almost perfect, and the white lettering "Genuine Collins Hickory" is almost perfect. The third is a Kelly, the fourth is an old Crafstman. The single pic of the Plumb is a little 24" cruiser, Joe.


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## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> In the picture of 4, the first is the American Beauty, was my wife's grandfathers. The second with the handle that shows good stain, is my Collins Legitmus. One side of the head the blueing is almost perfect, and the white lettering "Genuine Collins Hickory" is almost perfect. The third is a Kelly, the fourth is an old Crafstman. The single pic of the Plumb is a little 24" cruiser, Joe.



Very nice, thanks for the info!


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## rarefish383

Right now I'm working on another smaller project. A late 30's early 40's Camillus "Scout Knife" I found it in an old tin box from one of my favorite uncles. The scales were shot, but the steel is in pretty good shape. I plan on hand fitting a pair of Black Locust scales. The escutcheon that says "Scout Knife" was just pinned on top of the handles. I plan on inlaying it. I also plan on putting a 4 point checkering job on it. Locust is pretty hard, we'll see how it goes, Joe.


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Alright fellas, here's one my recent projects completed - Council Tool 2.5 lb Cruiser:


I like, I like alot. Very well done Sir

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## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> Right now I'm working on another smaller project. A late 30's early 40's Camillus "Scout Knife" I found it in an old tin box from one of my favorite uncles. The scales were shot, but the steel is in pretty good shape. I plan on hand fitting a pair of Black Locust scales. The escutcheon that says "Scout Knife" was just pinned on top of the handles. I plan on inlaying it. I also plan on putting a 4 point checkering job on it. Locust is pretty hard, we'll see how it goes, Joe.
> 
> View attachment 603756
> View attachment 603757


Those are all awesome, but I really like that tiny little anvil! Once I get some spending money again, I plan to buy a quality anvil and some old smithing tools.


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## rarefish383

A friend was cleaning out his garage a few months ago and gave me the little anvil. Do a search of Rail Road track anvil and you will get several really nice videos of making them. Some of the guys made them so pretty you wouldn't want to smack them with anything, Joe.


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## farmer steve

Multifaceted said:


> Very nice, thanks for the info!


howdy neighbor. I'm just down the road in east berlin.


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## Multifaceted

farmer steve said:


> howdy neighbor. I'm just down the road in east berlin.



Pleased to be acquainted, good sir. We're due south in Fairfield, just a short jaunt down 15, about a mile from the Mason-Dixon.


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Pleased to be acquainted, good sir. We're due south in Fairfield, just a short jaunt down 15, about a mile from the Mason-Dixon.


Johnny Reb ? [emoji38]

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> Johnny Reb ? [emoji38]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



Is that you, Billy Yank?


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Is that you, Billy Yank?


I guess [emoji38]

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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Is that you, Billy Yank?


We're gonna have to gtg sometime being were almost neighbors [emoji851]

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## farmer steve

lead farmer said:


> We're gonna have to gtg sometime being were almost neighbors [emoji851]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



We have a couple of low key GTG's once in a while i'll let you know.


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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> I guess [emoji38]



Likewise 



lead farmer said:


> We're gonna have to gtg sometime being were almost neighbors [emoji851]



I'd be up for that, you already know that I like to throw lead, but I also brew my own beer. I currently have five kegs on tap. 



farmer steve said:


> We have a couple of low key GTG's once in a while i'll let you know.



Sounds good, let me know and I'll see about joining y'all. Whereabouts, another member's place or a restaurant or something like that?


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## rarefish383

Hey, I'm on the proper side of the Mason Dixon also, just a few minutes down 15, Joe.


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## rarefish383

I might add that we like to sling lead down here too, I have more Model 1899 Savages made before WWII than I have axes, Joe.


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## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> I might add that we like to sling lead down here too, I have more Model 1899 Savages made before WWII than I have axes, Joe.



My father-in-law has a nice Model 99 chambered in .300 Savage, it's an old one too, belonged to his father, and my father-in-law was born in 33'.


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## rarefish383

I think 90% of all 99's made were sold in PA. They are such great woods guns. It's getting pretty hard to find one that hasn't had extra holes drilled in them. Savage didn't start drilling them for scopes till about 1949-50. I have one made in 1912 that was sold to the Malcolm Telescopic Rifle Co. The scope is almost as long as the barrel. I also have a factory letter with the shipping date. If I can find the pic I can keep it on topic because it's mounted on a Fir slab I cut down with an ax and milled with my 660, Joe.


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## svk

My BIL has 4 or 5 of them (99's). I looked at getting one but the price wasnt't justified for the little I would use it.
My dad's cousin owns the .25-35 Winchester that my great grandpa originally owned. He did not want to sell it when I asked him about 10 years ago. He only has step children so I hope they really appreciate that gun or that he gives it to one of his blood nephews someday.


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## lead farmer

Been workin on a couple here the last week. The H B no name was covered in orange paint and a loose handle, couple coats of boiled on her an refit the head. The Norlund was all oranged up as well but nice tight handle. Not sure why I didn't get before picks.












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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> Been workin on a couple here the last week. The H B no name was covered in orange paint and a loose handle, couple coats of boiled on her an refit the head. The Norlund was all oranged up as well but nice tight handle. Not sure why I didn't get before picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



Nice stuff you got there, I hope to come across a Genuine Norlund one day to add to my collection. Where did you score that Norlund?


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Nice stuff you got there, I hope to come across a Genuine Norlund one day to add to my collection. Where did you score that Norlund?


I bought those 2 and another boys axe on a pkg deal on evilbay believe it or not. What I paid for all three is prolly less than what that one is worth. I guess it was because they were all painted up an stuffs . Gave the other no name to a buddy that wanted a small axe [emoji38]

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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> I bought those 2 and another boys axe on a pkg deal on evilbay believe it or not. What I paid for all three is prolly less than what that one is worth. I guess it was because they were all painted up an stuffs . Gave the other no name to a buddy that wanted a small axe [emoji38]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



Yeah.. I have an Evilbay purchase or two myself...., but that being said, seems as if you made out pretty good. Ha ha, my last no-name Hudson Bay I gave to my wife! As much as I dig the pattern as a collector, they are not my favorite patterns for a working axe. I only like my Wetterlings HB because it has a unique wedge shape with thick cheeks that gives an advantage over any other small axe I have for bushcraft or camping.


----------



## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Yeah.. I have an Evilbay purchase or two myself...., but that being said, seems as if you made out pretty good. Ha ha, my last no-name Hudson Bay I gave to my wife! As much as I dig the pattern as a collector, they are not my favorite patterns for a working axe. I only like my Wetterlings HB because it has a unique wedge shape with thick cheeks that gives an advantage over any other small axe I have for bushcraft or camping.


When do I get to stop over an see your Museum? [emoji38]

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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> When do I get to stop over an see your Museum? [emoji38]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



You're probably going to be disappointed at the extent of my "museum", pretty sure you might have an equally nice if not larger collection than myself. We'll have to set up a time, you'll need to first meet my two dogs, then meet my wife. If you do well with them, then you can see my axes and forestry tools. Not much gets by my wife though, she's a real-life CSI


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> You're probably going to be disappointed at the extent of my "museum", pretty sure you might have an equally nice if not larger collection than myself. We'll have to set up a time, you'll need to first meet my two dogs, then meet my wife. If you do well with them, then you can see my axes and forestry tools. Not much gets by my wife though, she's a real-life CSI


Hahaaahaaa... I look forward to it Sir

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## svk

I am starting the process of rehanging that Hudson Bay pattern axe I referenced earlier. I successfully dug the metal wedges out of the head with a screwdriver but ended up wrecking the handle anyhow so I have a new one (purchased from local fleet supply for $7.99, has decent but not great grain). Will get pics when I log in from my phone. Not a huge loss of the handle as it was originally stolen off a different boy's axe head anyhow and I rehung that one with a new ash handle.

@Multifaceted what stain/varnish/oil do you apply to your handles? They look great. Also what grit sandpaper do you hit the handle with before finishing?


----------



## svk

On a side note I was going through my old padlocks and found a couple of rusty ones. I am going to do a little test of ammonia versus vinegar baths for two that are approximately of equal rustiness. I am not concerned about the result as everyone and their brother have the key to these locks so I can only use them for "minimum security" tasks anyhow.


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## Multifaceted

svk said:


> @Multifaceted what stain/varnish/oil do you apply to your handles? They look great. Also what grit sandpaper do you hit the handle with before finishing?



Thank you! Lately, I've been staining some handles with a color called 'Gunstock' which I really like with the black, rust-blued finish I've done. Otherwise I've used Golden Oak after heat treating the grains. Often, I simply use a drying oil only. For oil, I use Boiled Linseed Oil, typically I'll put three coats with a generous amount on the end-grain (which is where it soaks up the most) before using. Typically, I'll coat the haft and end-grain wedges, let sit for 20 or so minutes, then wipe off excess and let dry for 24 hours. I'll repeat this two more times, but the third time I'll let dry for 48 hours. For sanding the handles I like to use either 120 or 150 grit sand paper. Others use 180, but I like it just a touch more rough which gives better purchase on the grip. I've even seen some of the old-timers knurl the handle with a rasp for an even more coarse purchase.

Before you go staining and oiling, make sure you've got the handle thinned out to where you want it, otherwise you'll be making touch-ups. Also, it's going to get dinged up with a stained handle, so the lighter wood becomes exposed. Regular oiling with BLO helps mend those wounds and lend a really cool, used character.

*Edit:* two, not three more times after the first initial coat.


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## svk

Excellent, thank you!


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## Multifaceted

Here is a few thins I picked while on vacation deep in WV with my wife and dogs. First is a Collins Brush Axe (3.5 lb) - had some typical "Bubba" modifications, like the electrical tape wrap and a few bolts driven into the wedge.

Before:





... and after:
















Notice the grain orientation on that last pic, very horizontal, but I though that this was more a swinging/cutting tool than a striking tool like an axe, so that wood should hold up well. I've also seen these with mostly curved or bent grip handles, but I had an extra 36" straight shaft, and with the curved cutting blade, it just made more sense to me.

As a bonus, and while not an axe, I did pick this while in WV too. An unmarked one-man crosscut saw, Tuttle Tooth pattern. Figured ya'll would appreciate this...

Before:









... and after:









Still have A LOT of work to do, got most of the rust off, now just trying to get most of the pitting out and rust off of the teeth and rakers. I'm currently drawing up plans for a benchtop saw vice, and still need to procure the proper tools, like jointer, spider, set gauge, sawyers hammer, hand anvil, etc. Down the rabbit hole I go...

Thanks for looking!


----------



## svk

Got it hung tonight. I bought an off brand version of a cordless Dremel and boy that is nice for fitting the handle to the head. Need to sand down the handle and do it up with BLO. I have a quart of it at the hunting cabin so I guess the project will be finished up there.

Ironically I checked the tag and this handle was originally from House Handle Co.

Pay no attention to the shiny part of the cutting edge, I had taken out some burs with my multi tool. I'll uniformly sharpen it as the project nears completion.


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Here is a few thins I picked while on vacation deep in WV with my wife and dogs. First is a Collins Brush Axe (3.5 lb) - had some typical "Bubba" modifications, like the electrical tape wrap and a few bolts driven into the wedge.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and after:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the grain orientation on that last pic, very horizontal, but I though that this was more a swinging/cutting tool than a striking tool like an axe, so that wood should hold up well. I've also seen these with mostly curved or bent grip handles, but I had an extra 36" straight shaft, and with the curved cutting blade, it just made more sense to me.
> 
> As a bonus, and while not an axe, I did pick this while in WV too. An unmarked one-man crosscut saw, Tuttle Tooth pattern. Figured ya'll would appreciate this...
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and after:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still have A LOT of work to do, got most of the rust off, now just trying to get most of the pitting out and rust off of the teeth and rakers. I'm currently drawing up plans for a benchtop saw vice, and still need to procure the proper tools, like jointer, spider, set gauge, sawyers hammer, hand anvil, etc. Down the rabbit hole I go...
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Looking good. I have a like new True Temper brush axe at the hunting cabin. Seems like a lot of work compared to the brush saw lol.


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## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Looking good. I have a like new True Temper brush axe at the hunting cabin. Seems like a lot of work compared to the brush saw lol.



Agreed, they're more from a time where power equipment either didn't exist or wasn't readily obtainable to the average person. These days only the Forrest Service still uses these types of brush hook where they can only use hand tools. I don't intend on keeping this, will likely sell it to a good home. I have a dedicated bike-handle Stihl FS 86 trmmer with a brush knife cutting head for just such work


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Got it hung tonight. I bought an off brand version of a cordless Dremel and boy that is nice for fitting the handle to the head. Need to sand down the handle and do it up with BLO. I have a quart of it at the hunting cabin so I guess the project will be finished up there.
> 
> Ironically I checked the tag and this handle was originally from House Handle Co.
> 
> Pay no attention to the shiny part of the cutting edge, I had taken out some burs with my multi tool. I'll uniformly sharpen it as the project nears completion.



Looks great! Those are such nice little axes, a good truck or camping axe. Be sure you get that varnish off before you apply the handle otherwise it'll never soak in.


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Looks great! Those are such nice little axes, a good truck or camping axe. Be sure you get that varnish off before you apply the handle otherwise it'll never soak in.


Yup that will be an evening project maybe this weekend. That varnish isn't the best and the handle texture is rough so the custom finish should turn out better. May soak the head in the oil before I rub down the rest.


----------



## lead farmer

svk said:


> Yup that will be an evening project maybe this weekend. That varnish isn't the best and the handle texture is rough so the custom finish should turn out better. May soak the head in the oil before I rub down the rest.


Put BLO on the head to, makes em look nice after it dries

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## rarefish383

svk said:


> My BIL has 4 or 5 of them (99's). I looked at getting one but the price wasnt't justified for the little I would use it.
> My dad's cousin owns the .25-35 Winchester that my great grandpa originally owned. He did not want to sell it when I asked him about 10 years ago. He only has step children so I hope they really appreciate that gun or that he gives it to one of his blood nephews someday.


I putzed around at a private Savage GTG, waiting for the last minute to make an offer on an 1899B. The B has a 26" Octagon barrel and a crescent butt plate, in 25-35. He was asking $1300. When I walked over he said he had just traded it to another guy. I settled for another B that he had in 303, they were both high condition and both made in 1908. Those 25-35's are too hard to find to pass one up when you get the chance, Joe.


----------



## svk

rarefish383 said:


> I putzed around at a private Savage GTG, waiting for the last minute to make an offer on an 1899B. The B has a 26" Octagon barrel and a crescent butt plate, in 25-35. He was asking $1300. When I walked over he said he had just traded it to another guy. I settled for another B that he had in 303, they were both high condition and both made in 1908. Those 25-35's are too hard to find to pass one up when you get the chance, Joe.


I do not know the basis for doing so but cousin said the original octahon barrel had long ago been replaced or turned down to round. So not completely original but still cool.


----------



## rarefish383

The 1899A was a 26 inch round barrel, and there was an 1899A short rifle with a 22 inch barrel and a steel shotgun butt plate, Joe


----------



## rarefish383

If the barrel was turned it would not have any writing on it, and it would not fit the forearm. Next time you see it copy how the barrel address is written, how may lines, Company spelled out or shorten to Co. The 25-35 was added in 1903 and discontinued in 1915. The serial on mine is in the 75,000 range, 1908, Joe


----------



## svk

So it's a little off topic but here's the results of ammonia versus vinegar so far after 24 hours in the solutions. Looks like I'll be sticking with vinegar for my axe heads. 

I thought the ammonia was going to clean up the chrome plated areas better but not much happening. As of last night when the second two pics were taken the vinegar had busted about half of the crud while ammonia did nothing. Which is interesting as ammonia brightens semi-precious/precious metals like crazy. 

The subjects. The slightly rustier one on top went into the vinegar bath. 



Ammonia 



Vinegar


----------



## Trx250r180

Great thread ,now i want more axe's .


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## svk

A good amount of rust is now gone.


----------



## Multifaceted

Pretty cool, I've always used vinegar for heavy rust removal before the ol' wire cup brush. The only downside is often it also removes a patina, but short of using electrolysis that seems to work pretty well. Ha ha, I was worried about posting a brush hook and crosscut saw in this thread, yet here I am commenting on padlocks, ha ha..


----------



## svk

Yeah sorry for going off topic a bit. I guess I wanted to try the test on something smaller than an axe head.


----------



## Blstr88

Great thread! Ive been sort of collecting various axes recently as well, I didnt realize there was so much knowledge. I'll have to look closer at mine and see if I have anything worth having! 

Where do you guys source your handles? I need to order a few for some of the axe heads I've collected.


----------



## rarefish383

Welcome aboard, I hand pick through the stuff at the local Ace and TSC. I've always wanted to try "HouseHandles", I've heard good and some not so good, but they have a lot of handles, Joe.


----------



## Multifaceted

I am a fan of Beaver-tooth Handle Co. It's literally a one person show, so it'll be a two week turnaround, but it's well worth it. Like any other handles, they still come a little thick, so you'll need to whittle them down to get that good "snap" on a swing, but otherwise they're dandy. You can get choice grade with proper grain orientation, or #2 grade with slash grain and a mix of heartwood and sapwood. You can also select either plain sanded or waxed. Often anything you'll buy at the local Ace is either warped, has less than access grain orientation and come with a useless laquer finish, which is annoying to remove.


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## svk

Welcome aboard @Blstr88 !

I have purchased many of my handles from Menards after sorting through their whole stock to find a couple of good ones. The handles from there have been better proportioned and I haven't seen the need to do any shaping (of course I am not at the point where I feel I am good enough to do that anyhow). This last House Handle that I purchased from the local hardware store is a bit more blocky and the fit and finish is not nearly as good as whatever brand is carried by Menards.

As far as value of the heads, there is a Facebook page called "Axe and Woodworking Appreciation" where the guys can tell you every minute detail about your heads and their monetary value. I would say around here most of us are more concerned with how well the axe works versus how much its worth. But feel free to ask any questions you have and we will do our best to answer them!


----------



## Blstr88

Thanks guys! And thanks for the links, I'll look through those websites for what I need. 

I looked quickly at a few of the axe heads I have this morning, the two bigger axe heads didnt have any readily apparent markings but they need to be cleaned up, maybe theres something hiding underneath. The hatchet I have clearly said COLLINS across the back of the cheek. I'll start cleaning up those other two this weekend and see if they're marked. 

Its exciting to see so many examples of beautifully restored axes because its so easy to find old beat up axes at flea markets, pawn shops, yard sales, etc up here (northern NH)...so it seems like a real fun/interesting hobby to get into for very little monetary investment. Look forward to following along, learning, and restoring some myself.


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## Bobby Kirbos

I rescued this guy from the rust monster. I've had it for 12 years as a rusty weight. It was left in the shed of our old house when we bought it. The handle that was on it was beat to crap at the axe head.

48 hours in white vinegar
Cleaned with water and a brass wire brush.
Light coat of motor oil.
New 24" handle from Beaver Tooth.


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## lead farmer

Bobby Kirbos said:


> I rescued this guy from the rust monster. I've had it for 12 years as a rusty weight. It was left in the shed of our old house whe we bought it. The handle that was on it was beat to crap at the axe head.
> 
> 48 hours in white vinegar
> Cleaned with water and a brass wire brush.
> Light coat of motor oil.
> New 24" handle from Beaver Tooth.
> View attachment 605617
> 
> View attachment 605618
> 
> View attachment 605619


For some reason these pics won't show for me [emoji15]

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## lead farmer

Bobby Kirbos said:


> I rescued this guy from the rust monster. I've had it for 12 years as a rusty weight. It was left in the shed of our old house when we bought it. The handle that was on it was beat to crap at the axe head.
> 
> 48 hours in white vinegar
> Cleaned with water and a brass wire brush.
> Light coat of motor oil.
> New 24" handle from Beaver Tooth.
> View attachment 605617
> 
> View attachment 605618
> 
> View attachment 605619


Sweeeeeeet buddy, now get a little BL oil on her. Looks good. I like your pic in signature as well[emoji106] 

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## Blstr88

Thought Id share a few of the axes Ive picked up recently. Most of them dont appear to have any obvious markings but a few do. I figured the unmarked ones will be good to get me started until I figure out what Im doing and start on the nicer marked ones.










Anybody have any idea what this marking is?


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## svk

Nice looking pieces. That maul very likely is a Collins as well. 

Is the Sweden axe blue or green?


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## Blstr88

svk said:


> Nice looking pieces. That maul very likely is a Collins as well.
> 
> Is the Sweden axe blue or green?



Thanks. The Sweden is green - does that help ID it?


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## dancan

Nice bunch of projects! 

As for my axe handle sources, we have Home Hardware stores that have VB Swinger, and Princess Auto that have Seymour handles but you're going to have to hand pick for a good one. 
Lee Valley sell replacement handles for GB and Hultafors if you want some nice hickory. 
We have a couple of local producers of ash handles but you still have to hand pick to get a good one .


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## svk

Blstr88 said:


> Thanks. The Sweden is green - does that help ID it?


The older Hults Bruk axes said Sweden in an identical or very similar font but were normally blue. I really wish I hadn't parted with mine a few years back.


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## dancan

On BladeForums there's a thread called "What did you rehang today"
183 pages , plenty of missing pics but there's still a lot of real good pics and info .


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## dancan

I just found these guys http://thraneaxeandsawco.com/product/handle-blanks/


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## SeMoTony

Looks like the aged apearance was more than skin deep 
it had split so well to that point. Small wb should keep the shed warm when needed
G'day, stay safe


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## Bobby Kirbos

SeMoTony said:


> Looks like the aged apearance was more than skin deep View attachment 606426
> it had split so well to that point. Small wb should keep the shed warm when needed
> G'day, stay safe


Kindling.


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## svk

Looks like that handle spent a bit of time outdoors. Well now you can hang it with a nice piece of wood of your choice.


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## farmer steve

some good reading on axes that were made back in the day here in PA. i was looking up info on the Norlund that i have.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Axe_manufacturing_in_Pennsylvania


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## CR888

I just gave all my old dry handles a light sand then few coats of oil. They really like it.


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## Multifaceted

Been busy the past few weeks, but managed to fit in an old Fulton (Pre-Craftsmen) Single Bit Axe fitted with a hardware store handle that I shaved down considerably. I mean, I took a LOT of wood off of it with a spokeshave... Hardware store handles, heck, most pre-made handles are way too thick. It weighs about 3.75 lb and hung on a 36" bent grip haft, slash grain with a good portion of heartwood. Hang is damn near perfect.


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Been busy the past few weeks, but managed to fit in an old Fulton (Pre-Craftsmen) Single Bit Axe fitted with a hardware store handle that I shaved down considerably. I mean, I took a LOT of wood off of it with a spokeshave... Hardware store handles, heck, most pre-made handles are way too thick. It weighs about 3.75 lb and hung on a 36" bent grip haft, slash grain with a good portion of heartwood. Hang is damn near perfect.


Man that sure is pretty 

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## dancan

Very nice !


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## svk

Purdy!


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## Multifaceted

The other day I received a package from a new friend in Sweden. It's a vintage Hults Bruk 'Wira' pattern, 1lk or 2.25 lb. Got the rust off and am working on a handle, thinking a 28" curved haft. Will post more later as progress gets made, was just so excited to get this I had to share.


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> The other day I received a package from a new friend in Sweden. It's a vintage Hults Bruk 'Wira' pattern, 1lk or 2.25 lb. Got the rust off and am working on a handle, thinking a 28" curved haft. Will post more later as progress gets made, was just so excited to get this I had to share.


About time you show back up in here

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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> About time you show back up in here
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk




Man, I have been busy. I wish I had more time for this stuff, believe me!


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Man, I have been busy. I wish I had more time for this stuff, believe me!


That is not a very good excuse [emoji38]

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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Man, I have been busy. I wish I had more time for this stuff, believe me!


Did u get that house sold ?

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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> Did u get that house sold ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



Yes, I did - finally! Went to settlement and closed just this past Tuesday. Lost my you know what on it, it was a bad investment, but it's done and over with. Last month on the 29th my father passed away unexpectedly, and I'm the executor or PR of his "estate", or rather, what remains of it. My father lives about 90 minutes drive one-way from here, so it''s wholly inconvenient to get to. Needless to say, my plate is pretty full. Didn't mean to be a downer, but that's the reason why...


----------



## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Yes, I did - finally! Went to settlement and closed just this past Tuesday. Lost my you know what on it, it was a bad investment, but it's done and over with. Last month on the 29th my father passed away unexpectedly, and I'm the executor or PR of his "estate", or rather, what remains of it. My father lives about 90 minutes drive one-way from here, so it''s wholly inconvenient to get to. Needless to say, my plate is pretty full. Didn't mean to be a downer, but that's the reason why...


Sorry to hear that buddy. Was just joking about not being here. Still want to meet up sometime when things settle down

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## svk

Sorry to hear that, multifaceted.


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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> Sorry to hear that buddy. Was just joking about not being here. Still want to meet up sometime when things settle down



I totally get the joke, no hard feelings. I feel a bit cruddy suddenly laying that out like that, but I suppose I just needed to get that off of my chest... Sorry about that 



svk said:


> Sorry to hear that, multifaceted.



Thank you, svk. Life goes on...


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## LondonNeil

I came across a youtuber called Skillcult last week, and have enjoyed a few of his videos. I haven't tried it but thought maybe some of you gents might be interested in how he makes protective wraps for handles from rawhide




that's part 1, there's a part 2 where he gets it done rather than talks about it, and part 3 you see the finished item and he talks some more. Of possible relevance right now (as it seems form the scrounge thread you guys are in hunting season), in part 3 he mentions an idea of skinning a dear lower leg and using the tube of hide rather than stitching a piece as he does here. Anyway, hope some of you like his video and ideas.

He has lots of other videos on different axes too

Edit: with link to the right video this time i hope...not the advert!


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## rarefish383

Sorry to hear the news. My Dad was my best friend, and the strongest man I ever met. Prostate cancer got him. The last 6 months were bad as he got weaker. I was the executor of my Mom's estate. She was so healthy up to her death that no one new any of her business. She was 87 and had a 65 year old boy friend. People used to talk trash about him for going with an old gal like Mom. But, when he found out that she blew almost 100K on an African scam, he stuck by her and made sure she never needed anything. Maybe after new years I can get up there and share one of those cold beers with you, Joe.


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## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> I came across a youtuber called Skillcult last week, and have enjoyed a few of his videos. I haven't tried it but thought maybe some of you gents might be interested in how he makes protective wraps for handles from rawhide
> 
> that's part 1, there's a part 2 where he gets it done rather than talks about it, and part 3 you see the finished item and he talks some more. Of possible relevance right now (as it seems form the scrounge thread you guys are in hunting season), in part 3 he mentions an idea of skinning a dear lower leg and using the tube of hide rather than stitching a piece as he does here. Anyway, hope some of you like his video and ideas.
> 
> He has lots of other videos on different axes too
> 
> Edit: with link to the right video this time i hope...not the advert!



I really like SkillCult (Steven Edholm) and his cordwood challenge! When it comes to axe knowledge and use, his videos stand out. I like the rawhide idea as a protective collar, but I find that simple paracord seems to hold up pretty well if wound tightly enough.



rarefish383 said:


> Sorry to hear the news. My Dad was my best friend, and the strongest man I ever met. Prostate cancer got him. The last 6 months were bad as he got weaker. I was the executor of my Mom's estate. She was so healthy up to her death that no one new any of her business. She was 87 and had a 65 year old boy friend. People used to talk trash about him for going with an old gal like Mom. But, when he found out that she blew almost 100K on an African scam, he stuck by her and made sure she never needed anything. Maybe after new years I can get up there and share one of those cold beers with you, Joe.



My old man was a difficult person to love. We got along about as often as we didn't, but he was still my dad. Hadn't seen him in nearly four years, never got to "bury the hatchet" with him before he went. He always had an affinity to anything with an edge, be it a knife, or striking/cutting implement. I saved some of his ashes and plan to fold some of him into a forge weld to make a knife or an axe sometime in the future. I even found his old little McCulloch "Mini Mac" chainsaw and got it running again after 25+ years of sitting in a basement. Still need to replace the fuel lines because it leaks, but put a new bar and chain, got the carb tuned and she's screaming.


----------



## LondonNeil

Yes I'm really glad I stumbled across his channel, I hope he does well. I find him intelligent, thinks through his comments and explains his views, no 'axe to grind', informative - clearly knows his stuff, and has a pleasant relaxed and relaxing manner.

In part 3 he discusses a few alternatives and cloth or thin cord glued in place seem a neat option.


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## svk

I'll have to check him out when I have time.


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## LondonNeil

It's worth it. Only negative I have is sometimes he yabbers on a bit and mkes the video a bit long, but much of the time Ilike to listen to him and if I don't I skip on


----------



## Homelitexl903

He's okay. I like most of his content but he can go on for half an hour about why he doesn't like an axe or hatchet that he has never used. I feel like sometimes he can't get past the fact that these tools are more than just bush craft items.


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## svk

How do you guys strip paint/varnish from axe handles? Coarse sandpaper? Sander? I have a little house axe with some pretty tired white paint on the handle. I want to strip that off and rub it down with BLO. Just sounds like a lot of work to hand sand it all off.


----------



## Multifaceted

Personally, I dislike varnish or paint of any kind on a wooden handle. To remove varnish or paint, I'll often use a spokeshave. It's quick, and if you set the blades low enough - won't take too much material off. You'll have to read the grain so not to pull chunks out while shaving. Using a 4-In-Hand rasp/file is useful as a supplementary tool. This would be a good time to gauge the handle thickness and further sculpt the grip and purchase. As an example, if your axe is buried in a log and you can't bend the handle with two fingers and moderate pressure - it's too stiff. One of the main reasons hickory is prized for axe handles is for hardness AND its elasticity. There are harder woods commonly available, but few offer the balance of strength and elasticity like Hickory.

After the varnish is removed, use some coarse grain 60 or 80 grit sandpaper to smooth out rough edges, then finish with 180 grit before applying BLO.

..Or at least that how I like to do it!


----------



## svk

Nice. I'll have to look up that spokeshave.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Nice. I'll have to look up that spokeshave.



Pretty handy for general woodworking, as well as axe restoration Heck, I even recently used it to shave the tops of some doors that were sticking....

I wish I had an older one, but I picked one of these up a few for a few bucks years ago on Amazon


----------



## Trx250r180

I used 80 grit by hand on my stilleto hammer with axe handle then burnt it, then blo ,has a nice feel now ,used to be my beater hammer to dig weeds with the waffle head was trashed so ground it smooth,i cleaned up the rest of the head also ,now i grab it often over the newer looking hammers.


----------



## Multifaceted

This weekend I got a rush of motivation to clear my mind of the day to day.... I hung two axes, and an 8 lb sledge hammer. The metal was touched up and treated on all, and all three handles needed considerable woodworking to get it where I like. Two of these are prized pieces, and will post pictures as soon as the the oil is dried and edges are sharpened and honed. I'm starting to run out of room to put up my axes, seems as if I might need to make another sale soon....

Any axe I keep is special to me, but there comes a time to when I ask myself: "Do I really need three 3+ lb felling axes?" Maybe I do... help talk me out of it!


----------



## Blstr88

What do you treat the actual axe head with?


----------



## Multifaceted

Blstr88 said:


> What do you treat the actual axe head with?



One I touched up as rust removal without disturbing the natural patina, the other a forced patina rust-blueing. I'll post pics soon, just need the oil to dry otherwise it gets messy handling them and camera, also need daylight... I leave home for work when it's dark, and return home when it's dark this time of year.


----------



## dancan

Multifaceted said:


> This weekend ...
> Any axe I keep is special to me, but there comes a time to when I ask myself: "Do I really need three 3+ lb felling axes?" Maybe I do... help talk me out of it!



Poppycock !!!







Of course you need multiples !


----------



## dancan

Did I show you guys these ?











A find in September , 10$ each .


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## svk

dancan said:


> Poppycock !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course you need multiples !


QTLA


----------



## rarefish383

dancan said:


> Poppycock !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course you need multiples !


Do you use a piece of rope for a belt and just thread it through all those holes to keep them close? Joe,
.


----------



## Multifaceted

dancan said:


> Poppycock !!
> 
> Of course you need multiples !



Ahhh... I feel better already!



dancan said:


> Did I show you guys these ?
> 
> A find in September , 10$ each .



Excellent finds, is that one a Hults Bruk?


----------



## dancan

Yup, Hults Bruks .
Every September a series of local yardsales start , last year I spotted that same axe at one residence that we stopped at , I had bought a hatchet and a couple of tools there but left it behind thinking I had multiples in that size .
A few weeks after I started to thing about that axe because it had a nice old school handle , thin and original to the axe .
It haunted me for a year , you always remember the deal that you missed or didn't jump on the opportunity .
This September on the right day I made a bee-line right to that house to see if it was still there to be had .
It's mine now 
I know for sure it was a factory handle because it had the "Sealed forever" epoxy that many Scandi's used back then .






I fabbed up a metal guard on one of my splitters .


----------



## Multifaceted

Nice! I wish I could find old Swedish axes like that around here. The yard sale circuit for me has been weak, I've had better luck on Craigslist and online trading.


----------



## dancan

It'll be slack up here till next summer when the yardsales start up again . 
I've been known to send some duplicates away , why just the other day I packaged up a 700g head and sent it across the pond 
I'll keep my eyes open , what size would you want ?


----------



## dancan

Here's a 3 1/2lbs Hults Bruks Agdor new double bit that I scored for 25$ a couple of years ago 











It's an awesome kindling splitter .


----------



## dancan

Here's a 1 1/4lb Scandi , polly Gransfors Bruks , hafted with the first handle I made .


----------



## dancan

Here's an Agdor hewing hatchet , 6lb Chinese wedge on a stick and a Black King 






25$ for the 3 of them .


----------



## Multifaceted

dancan said:


> It'll be slack up here till next summer when the yardsales start up again .
> I've been known to send some duplicates away , why just the other day I packaged up a 700g head and sent it across the pond
> I'll keep my eyes open , what size would you want ?



Wow, I really don't know what to say.... I mean, sure! I love Swedish axes and could use something in the 700-800g range. Let me know if there's something youre interested i and we can trade, I don't want to simply take without giving back. I recently did a trade with a fellow in Motala, Sweden. Got the old Hults 'Wira' pattern that I posted earlier. Traded him a Collins 4 lb Legitimus double for it. Pound for pound, not an even trade, but I can't find vintage Swede axes down here as easily as I can old American doubles. Shipping was about even anyway, so even enough for me.



dancan said:


> Here's a 3 1/2lbs Hults Bruks Agdor new double bit that I scored for 25$ a couple of years ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's an awesome kindling splitter .



Awesome! I love it, love it! What a score to get that brand spanking new. If new, what was wrong with the handle?



dancan said:


> Here's a 1 1/4lb Scandi , polly Gransfors Bruks , hafted with the first handle I made .



Nice work, do you have a close-up of the makers mark on that?


----------



## Multifaceted

As promised here are some pictures of one of the three hangs I did last weekend. First up is a vintage Hults Bruk 'Wira' pattern, 1kg/2.25 lb on a 28" curved haft.

Here is what it looked like when I got it from my contact in Sweden:





Here it is after the the rust was removed and brightened up with a die grinder:





And after the forced patina "Rust Blueing":





And finished:


----------



## Multifaceted

Here is a True Temper Kelly Perfect 3.5 lb Jersey on a 36" straight shaft. I've been meaning to get this done for months now. Had to find a handle that would fit the eye and was also straight and not curved. Found one through House Handle Co. and arrived with very good grain orientation, but the eye and shoulders were not properly aligned to the center of the shaft. They always come too thick with beefy shoulders anyway, so I often thin the handles out prior to hanging. This gave me an opportunity to correct the alignment as well.

Here she is:


----------



## LondonNeil

dancan said:


> It'll be slack up here till next summer when the yardsales start up again .
> I've been known to send some duplicates away , why just the other day I packaged up a 700g head and sent it across the pond
> I'll keep my eyes open , what size would you want ?




Oooooooo. Santa I've been a good boy, I promise......


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Here is a True Temper Kelly Perfect 3.5 lb Jersey on a 36" straight shaft. I've been meaning to get this done for months now. Had to find a handle that would fit the eye and was also straight and not curved. Found one through House Handle Co. and arrived with very good grain orientation, but the eye and shoulders were not properly aligned to the center of the shaft. They always come too thick with beefy shoulders anyway, so I often thin the handles out prior to hanging. This gave me an opportunity to correct the alignment as well.
> 
> Here she is:


Fantastic as usual.

Bluing looks great!

You mentioned that you wanted a straight handle for the second one. Is that the correct handle for that head style or just the setup that you wanted in this case?


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Fantastic as usual.
> 
> Bluing looks great!
> 
> You mentioned that you wanted a straight handle for the second one. Is that the correct handle for that head style or just the setup that you wanted in this case?



Hey, thanks! I was very happy with the uniform of the rust blueing this go around. I commissioned a dedicated 2 gallon stock pot for this purpose and tried suspending it in the peroxide/salt solution. Not touching the bottom made for a more even rusting.

As to the Jersey, I wanted to try a straight shaft on a single bit. Double bits feel good, probably because they are better balanced, but it's not uncommon for single bits to get hung on straight shafts. Council Tool sells their Jersey axes with both curved and straight hafts:

http://counciltool.com/axes-hatchets-mauls-wedges/#jerseyrail

I've watched a lot of videos from the Forest Service and some of the workers use straight shafted single bits, that's where I got the idea.


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## GVS

Multifaceted said:


> Here is a True Temper Kelly Perfect 3.5 lb Jersey on a 36" straight shaft. I've been meaning to get this done for months now. Had to find a handle that would fit the eye and was also straight and not curved. Found one through House Handle Co. and arrived with very good grain orientation, but the eye and shoulders were not properly aligned to the center of the shaft. They always come too thick with beefy shoulders anyway, so I often thin the handles out prior to hanging. This gave me an opportunity to correct the alignment as well.
> 
> Here she is:


You do nice work!


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## Multifaceted

GVS said:


> You do nice work!


Thank you!


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## LondonNeil

I agree, your axes are beautifully restored. Can you tell us more about the process for bluing the heads?


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## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> I agree, your axes are beautifully restored. Can you tell us more about the process for bluing the heads?



I would be happy to, have done this a number of times now. It gives an ax a natural looking patina or 'straight from the forge' look to it when the original patina has been removed during restoration. Because it is also a passive oxidation layer, it acts as a barrier for further oxidation and protects the metal. Plus, it looks great... I don't really like the look of a bright steel ax head and they always seem to be prone to surface rust if not kept up on.

Anyway, here is a run down. First, the steel is brightened up with a wire brush cup wheel and sandpaper or grinder (I use a pneumatic die grinder, just be careful not to heat up the bit and draw the temper). You want to remove any deep pitted rust, old paint, or detritus. After that, I put on Nitrile gloves and de-grease the steel with acetone. Keep the gloves on because the oil from your skin will cause an uneven finish with the rust.

Once the steel is de-greased it is ready to put in the salt bath solution made up of 3% hydrogen peroxide table salt. In the past, I've used cheap non-stick baking pans for the salt bath, but this time I used a 2 gallon stock pot that I was OK with ruining. The peroxide is then heated up near boiling (it is mostly water, so the typical ~212/100 C/F temps) - when it starts to look like it's about to roll, start adding the salt. I'll add a lot, enough to where it starts to accumulate on the bottom, but do stir it in to dissolve. Once the solution is again near boiling, I'll remove it from the heat and add the ax. This time I also used a wire coat hanger (sorry, Mommy dearest) to suspend the steel and keep it from touching the bottom of the pot. In the past, having it touch the bottom resulted in an uneven rust coating. Here is what it looked like during a dry-fit:





When the steel is immersed into the solution, the rusting happens very rapidly and the solution will start to bubble. The vapors emitted during the process are corrosive, so I prefer to do this outside on a propane burner. After about 5-10 minutes, the reaction will start to slow down. From here I will then remove the steel from the solution, dunk it in a bucket of water and then use an old toothbrush to scrub the rust to even out the coating. Then dry and return to the salt bath. Make sure you keep your gloves on! I'll do this 2-3 times or until I'm satisfied with the rust layer.

During this process I'll have another stainless pot with rocks or a brick on the bottom, then fill it with distilled water, enough so that it will fully submerge the ax head. This water is heated up to boiling. The rocks or brick is to keep the steel from coming in contact with the bottom of the pot, because this will be kept boiling and that will get the steel hot enough to draw the temper and ruin it. Obviously, the bottom of the pot will be much closer to the heat source and will thus be much more hot than the surrounding boiling water. After your rust layer is established, rinse off and then put the ax into the boiling distilled water. If not already, the rust layer will start to turn from a horrible brown color to a black. Be careful when placing the steel onto the rocks or bricks so not to scratch the new coating you've put on.

After about 5-10 minutes of boiling in the distilled water, you can remove it, it will be hot enough to dry itself at this point, then return it into the salt solution. Try to keep it warm if you can. I'll repeat this 2-3 more times and build layer upon layer of oxidation until I'm satisfied with the coating. Once you are satisfied, let cool to touch, then lightly scrub with some extra fine 0000 steel wool to remove the dust. At this point I also like to add a thin coating of BLO, the polymerization of the drying oil further protects the finish making it that much more durable. That's it!

This is a process that has been kicked around for the past 10-15 years, but to give credit where credit is due, I first came across the process in a thread on Bushcraft USA forum:
https://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/rust-bluing-a-tutorial.16456/


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## LondonNeil

Thank you. Very clear instructions. It certainly gives a stunning finish.


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## Multifaceted

If you're wondering about the materials, for the above Hults Bruk finish, I needed a gallon of hydrogen peroxied (0.89 USD per 32oz bottle x 4 = 3.56 USD), and standard 26 oz canister of salt (1.25 USD), and then 1-2 gallons of distilled water (0.89 USD per gallon x 2 = 1.78 USD). So it costs me about 6-7 USD to do this effectively, not including sales tax or propane. I'm sure someone could get buy with just what they have around the house, but it's such a small cost for me so I don't mind paying for enough materials to get right the first time.


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## dancan

About thick handles and hatchets , I don't really like the thick handles .
I usually use my hatchets for carving so I choke up a lot and too thick or too thin are no fun .







I had to do some shaving on the Wetterlings to get it comfortable because it was too thick , if I was only using it to bust up wood into kindling it wouldn't have been an issue .


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## dancan

One of my goto for carving is a Smart's manufacturing axe .
It's a bit bigger than most of the hewing hatchets I've come across but smaller than the hewing axes .





















I have it shoved on a broken boys axe handle that was locally made from the late 70's, it works fine for carving and sized that it let me choke up tight on the head for fine and controlled cuts .
It's not tight , polly break if you were trying to hew or even chop a tree down but , it works just fine for carving spoons .


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## Multifaceted

How the heck did I miss these? Must've got carried away and lost in the replies from the Splitting/Chopping Tool Review thread. Anyway, @dancan - nice looking hatchets! Looks like you've got a nice keen edge on that Smarts hewing hatchet. Got any new projects? I've got an old Craftsmen 4.25 pounder I want to hang here soon. Don't have any use for it though...


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> How the heck did I miss these? Must've got carried away and lost in the replies from the Splitting/Chopping Tool Review thread. Anyway, @dancan - nice looking hatchets! Looks like you've got a nice keen edge on that Smarts hewing hatchet. Got any new projects? I've got an old Craftsmen 4.25 pounder I want to hang here soon. Don't have any use for it though...


Well, if that's how it is that would make me a nice Christmas presant [emoji38]

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## svk

Does anyone else find the picture heavy pages of this and other threads load exceptionally slow on computers? They always load fast on my phone even in lower service areas.


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## Multifaceted

Hard to tell, Comcast throttles my service at home and my mobile data service is middling at best.... This site seems to always run a bit slower than other forums I visit.


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## lead farmer

Check this oldie out that a buddy gave me. He was cleaning his garage a found it . He said he found it in the woods years ago.

















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## dancan

Score !!!


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## homemade

My ax has fat cheeks. And good solution to loose some fat so it’s more of a chopper and less splitter, or is it best to leave it alone cause that’s the way it was designed?






And what does the 19 stand for?






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## svk

homemade said:


> My ax has fat cheeks. And good solution to loose some fat so it’s more of a chopper and less splitter, or is it best to leave it alone cause that’s the way it was designed?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what does the 19 stand for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It is your axe so totally up to you. The Swedish axes have real thin cheeks and you could profile it after one of them to create a dedicated chopping axe.

Since the 19 is clearly made by a hand punch, I would say this axe was once part of a fleet where tools were numbered to keep track of them or to be assigned to a specific user.


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## 95custmz

svk said:


> It is your axe so totally up to you. The Swedish axes have real thin cheeks and you could profile it after one of them to create a dedicated chopping axe.
> 
> Since the 19 is clearly made by a hand punch, I would say this axe was once part of a fleet where tools were numbered to keep track of them or to be assigned to a specific user.



Might be a 19 pounder, with those fat cheeks. [emoji23]


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## homemade

Ok, I think I’ll give it some bench grinder Love. I mostly use it for driving wedges but it suck at getting it to stick into anything unless you drive with enough force to split the wood. 


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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> Check this oldie out that a buddy gave me. He was cleaning his garage a found it . He said he found it in the woods years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



Nice looking Mann, and a veritable Pennsylvania pattern to boot! You need to hang that stat.



homemade said:


> My ax has fat cheeks. And good solution to loose some fat so it’s more of a chopper and less splitter, or is it best to leave it alone cause that’s the way it was designed?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what does the 19 stand for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



If you file it in a half moon shape up onto the cheeks you can still get a good keen edge on there. The cheeks help open up the cut and throw chips. Personally, I'd keep the cheeks, but it is your axe. Looks nice though, appears to be a Delaware pattern.


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## LondonNeil

Go careful with the grinder, if you get it too hot you'll lose the temper. Either go slow and have cooling water to hand or simply file it, a sharp file will cut OK.


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## Bobby Kirbos

Multifaceted said:


> Nice looking Mann, and a veritable Pennsylvania pattern to boot! You need to hang that stat.



I will politely disagree with making it a wall hanger. It's quality steel. Like a quality, serviceable firearm, it was designed to be used. Use it and enjoy it.

If it develops a hairline crack from being used then yes, make it a wall hanger - no different than you would if an old firearm became structurally unsafe to use.


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## Multifaceted

Bobby Kirbos said:


> I will politely disagree with making it a wall hanger. It's quality steel. Like a quality, serviceable firearm, it was designed to be used. Use it and enjoy it.
> 
> If it develops a hairline crack from being used then yes, make it a wall hanger - no different than you would if an old firearm became structurally unsafe to use.



Good sir... To hang it means to put a handle on it, not hang it on the wall. I restore axes as a hobby, have done several dozen of them with a strict 'no wall-hanger' rule. I would never, ever say that or recommend such a thing


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## Bobby Kirbos

Multifaceted said:


> Good sir...* To hang it means to put a handle on it,* not hang it on the wall. I restore axes as a hobby, have done several dozen of them with a strict 'no wall-hanger' rule. I would never, ever say that or recommend such a thing



Ah, I see. I do sincerely apologize for my ignorance on this topic.


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## Multifaceted

Bobby Kirbos said:


> Ah, I see. I do sincerely apologize for my ignorance on this topic.



It's all good! No need to apologize. Yeah, that's actually where the phrase "getting the hang of it" comes from. If you don't get it right, the head gets loose with repeated use. 

If you want to learn more, just axe...



I'll show myself out....


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## svk

I love the "Mann" name. Our old male cat (RIP) who passed this spring was named Little One but we called him Mann once he grew up (he was still petite for a Tomcat). I may have to look for a smaller Mann head to make an axe for my wife.


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## Multifaceted

Mann are one of my favorite manufacturers of old. A lot of history in axe manufacturing around PA.


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## svk

I looked for Mann heads on Ebay but could only find heavier or DB heads. Anyone have a line on a Mann boys axe head?


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## Multifaceted

@svk - message inbound...


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## dancan

Here's a pretty good 3 part vid on making handles


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## DFK

Good video.
Sure wish I spoke German.
David


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## dancan

You don't need to know , pay attention and it all makes sense .


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## Multifaceted

Ich will diesen Schnitzschraubstock, es würde nützlich sein, Griffe zu machen.


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## rarefish383

^^^What he said!


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Ich will diesen Schnitzschraubstock, es würde nützlich sein, Griffe zu machen.


Zackly ...[emoji51]

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## svk

This thread has really taken off this year. It's been cool to see all of your restorations. Happy new year folks!


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## Multifaceted

I'm still pretty new here, but this has been a very fun thread over the months. Happy New Year as well!


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## rarefish383

Clarence, you made it past your 30 day probationary period, you've got seniority now. Happy New Year to all, Joe.


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## svk

rarefish383 said:


> Clarence, you made it past your 30 day probationary period, you've got seniority now. Happy New Year to all, Joe.


Plus he does the best work so we'd be reducing our brain trust if we didn't


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## dancan

Here's my first resto for 2018 , my 10$ 3lb Hults Bruks .







The haft is in good shape so I'm gonna clean off the varnish and rehang the head as long as I can get the epoxy wedge out .


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## dancan

That epoxy chit sinks .
I started to chisel it out but it's slow so I used the propane torch to heat it , when burnt it would crumble out a lot better .






Now I see it has a 16th" epoxy layer between the head and haft which is still holding fast so I've got the head in a furnace duct to see if the woodfurnace heat will soften the epoxy .


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## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> Clarence, you made it past your 30 day probationary period, you've got seniority now. Happy New Year to all, Joe.



Well, if you say so — OK then!




svk said:


> Plus he does the best work so we'd be reducing our brain trust if we didn't



You're too kind, I'm just a junkie, but thank you kindly!



dancan said:


> That epoxy chit sinks .
> I started to chisel it out but it's slow so I used the propane torch to heat it , when burnt it would crumble out a lot better .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I see it has a 16th" epoxy layer between the head and haft which is still holding fast so I've got the head in a furnace duct to see if the woodfurnace heat will soften the epoxy .



Have you tried soaking it in acetone or another solvent? Or maybe drilling it out with a hammer drill while locked in a vise?


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## dancan

I didn't want to drill the wood , where it's an 1" low in the head I only have so much room for a rehang .
If heat doesn't work I'll give the acetone a go .


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## Multifaceted

dancan said:


> I didn't want to drill the wood , where it's an 1" low in the head I only have so much room for a rehang .
> If heat doesn't work I'll give the acetone a go .



Ah... Got ya. Missed that part about wanting to preserve the haft.


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## Multifaceted

I'm just going to leave this here....

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/2018-axe-cordwood-challenge.316582/


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## dancan

Done 






Wood furnace heat wins every time lol


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## Multifaceted

How hot did it get? I think you can draw them temper I'd it gets over 450°F... maybe I'm wrong. Either way, at least it's off!


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## dancan

In the hot air plenum , just very warm to touch .
I left it in there for about 20 minutes , I figured that they didn't use space shuttle heat tile epoxy lol


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## LondonNeil

Yes I've been thoroughly enjoying reading about, and admiring the work you gents are doing


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## dancan

Well , I'm gonna rethink the rehang ,not much room for a good fit .


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## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> Yes I've been thoroughly enjoying reading about, and admiring the work you gents are doing



I would love to see some vintage English axes!



dancan said:


> Well , I'm gonna rethink the rehang ,not much room for a good fit .



Eh, you'll get it figured out - we always do!


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## dancan

Multifaceted said:


> I would love to see some vintage English axes!
> 
> Eh, you'll get it figured out - we always do!



Yup , I'm having an Ironside ale pondering the solution , it's looking like a new haft .


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## Multifaceted

dancan said:


> Yup , I'm having an Ironside ale pondering the solution , it's looking like a new haft .



I'm having a pint of homebrew pale ale myself recovering from my earlier efforts. Just out of curiosity, is there a reason why you like keeping the original handles? Maybe I have bad luck, but I've never found one on an old axe worth saving, so I usually just cut them off, drift them out, and hang on a new haft. I can't wait to see that finished!


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## dancan

This one was nice , not beat up , the axe was never sharpened and it was the original .
I've decided to replace it , I have a nice 36" VB Swinger that it's gonna get , I just finished scrapping the varnish off of it , time and weather permitting , rehang it this coming weekend .


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## dancan

The VB is a nice thin old school with real tight perfect grain but it has a tiny defect half way , the edge of a very small knot but I don't feel it will affect it in any way .


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## Multifaceted

Wholly cow, where are you finding these old, never used axes with perfect grain orientation??? I might have to drive up to Canada here soon... I understand now, and would probably do the same now that I think about it. Oh, boy - I can't wait to see it!


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## dancan

Funny story about that Hults , two years ago we (The wife and I) did one of the local route yearly yardsales and I spotted this axe , 10$ it was but they had some other tools and stuff so I bought the other stuff and said to myself "I've got plenty of Hults Bruks axes ..." so I left it behind .
The very next day , in the back of my mind , I remembered what a friend who's a picker told me a while back "You will always remember the deals you missed forever ."
Dammit , he was right lol
When this September rolled around and that yardsale weekend came I made a beeline to that house to see if it was still there ,,,, WOoT !!! 1o bucks


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## dancan

I see that this axe isn't being made anymore 
http://www.hultafors.com/hand-tools/axes/felling-axe-hy-10/
It weighed out at 1.3kg which is almost 2.9lbs


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## dancan

Hmm ,
http://www.bushcraftcanada.com/axes/category.cfm?category=largeAxe&title=Large and Felling Axes

I guess there's a 3 1/2lb available .
That Montreal pattern looks sweet lol


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## Multifaceted

Love it. That's a good all-around weight.


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## Multifaceted

dancan said:


> Hmm ,
> http://www.bushcraftcanada.com/axes/category.cfm?category=largeAxe&title=Large and Felling Axes
> 
> I guess there's a 3 1/2lb available .
> That Montreal pattern looks sweet lol



Aw, no shipping to the United States.... what a bummer! That seems like a nice vendor with some cool inventory....

So, that Montreal pattern seems very similar to a Hudson Bay pattern.


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## dancan

It'll be bigger .
It's kinda like my Black King or this unknown head .


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## dancan

Multifaceted said:


> Aw, no shipping to the United States.... what a bummer! That seems like a nice vendor with some cool inventory....
> 
> So, that Montreal pattern seems very similar to a Hudson Bay pattern.



I have an account with the Canadian distributor for Hultafors lol


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## Multifaceted

Ah, yes - I see now. It is different, the toe sweeps upwards whereas the Hudson Bay is flat across the top. Also, the poll isn't as square.


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## dancan

The Hudson Bay is more tomahawk shaped and not as wide where the haft goes through.


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## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> I'm having a pint of homebrew pale ale myself recovering from my earlier efforts. Just out of curiosity, is there a reason why you like keeping the original handles? Maybe I have bad luck, but I've never found one on an old axe worth saving, so I usually just cut them off, drift them out, and hang on a new haft. I can't wait to see that finished!


I'm gonna have to come up and try some of that Pale Ale, but, just mentioning it, I remembered my daughters boy friend got me a Growler of a Triple IPA for Christmas. Heading for the fridge. I havent posted pics off my computer in a long while, so I don't know if this will work. The American Beauty on the left is pushing 100 years old on the original wood and the Collins next to it still has Genuine Collins Hickory printed on it, Joe.


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## rarefish383

Actually all 4 of these are the original wood, the gray rat is pretty weak and I think it's a Plumb, the far right I think is an old Craftsman and it's solid, Joe


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## Lowhog

I found this today at a local antique shop for $22.50. I thought it was unmarked at first and I'm sure the seller did too. I did pass on a nice Winchester double bit that was priced at $60.00. I'm not sure how I should go about cleaning this one up.


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## lead farmer

Lowhog said:


> View attachment 622713
> I found this today at a local antique shop for $22.50. I thought it was unmarked at first and I'm sure the seller did too. I did pass on a nice Winchester double bit that was priced at $60.00. I'm not sure how I should go about cleaning this one up.View attachment 622707


I use a cup brush on a 4in grinder. It takes all the loose rust off an let's the dark metal show.

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## Multifaceted

Nice looking double! Western or Penn pattern from the looks, good brand and good steel, should take and hold and edge well. 

+1 on the wire cup brush, so long as there isn't a lot of pitting, the natural dark patina can be left intact. The wire cup brush (I use it on a corded drill) takes the rust off without being too aggressive and removing the patina. If left rubbing long enough, though - it will, so use some finesse. If you don't already have a set, get some soft jaws for your bench vise, they come in real handy. Good luck and don't forget to post your results!


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## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> I'm gonna have to come up and try some of that Pale Ale, but, just mentioning it, I remembered my daughters boy friend got me a Growler of a Triple IPA for Christmas. Heading for the fridge. I havent posted pics off my computer in a long while, so I don't know if this will work. The American Beauty on the left is pushing 100 years old on the original wood and the Collins next to it still has Genuine Collins Hickory printed on it, Joe.



We should meet up soon, you and @lead farmer are both so close by. Haven't brewed in months, but eeked out two batches early on Sunday morning. Did two because not sure when I'l have a chance to again anytime soon. I think you posted those doubles before, they look familiar - and they are very easy om the eyes. Are they still in working order? I see so much potential, ha ha. Let me know if you want one to be a '_Multifaceted Special_'' for ya - restoring tools is one of my late night cathartic releases, helps keep me occupied while decompressing from stress. I've got my eye on that Plumb, I can see it now 



rarefish383 said:


> Actually all 4 of these are the original wood, the gray rat is pretty weak and I think it's a Plumb, the far right I think is an old Craftsman and it's solid, Joe


----------



## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> We should meet up soon, you and @lead farmer are both so close by. Haven't brewed in months, but eeked out two batches early on Sunday morning. Did two because not sure when I'l have a chance to again anytime soon. I think you posted those doubles before, they look familiar - and they are very easy om the eyes. Are they still in working order? I see so much potential, ha ha. Let me know if you want one to be a '_Multifaceted Special_'' for ya - restoring tools is one of my late night cathartic releases, helps keep me occupied while decompressing from stress. I've got my eye on that Plumb, I can see it now


I thought you done forgot about me buddy [emoji38]

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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> I thought you done forgot about me buddy [emoji38]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



Of course not! Just knocking the dust off of these wings. Need to spread out more, don't get out much


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Of course not! Just knocking the dust off of these wings. Need to spread out more, don't get out much


Would you be interested in puttin a handle in a oldie I found ?

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## Multifaceted

Sure! But why? I've seen your work, and it's good.

So, is it that old Mann?


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Sure! But why? I've seen your work, and it's good.
> 
> So, is it that old Mann?


Yep the ole Mann. Just like to own other people's handy work [emoji38]

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## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> We should meet up soon, you and @lead farmer are both so close by. Haven't brewed in months, but eeked out two batches early on Sunday morning. Did two because not sure when I'l have a chance to again anytime soon. I think you posted those doubles before, they look familiar - and they are very easy om the eyes. Are they still in working order? I see so much potential, ha ha. Let me know if you want one to be a '_Multifaceted Special_'' for ya - restoring tools is one of my late night cathartic releases, helps keep me occupied while decompressing from stress. I've got my eye on that Plumb, I can see it now


I have posted those before, maybe when this thread started. I used to throw the gray handle when I was a kid, it was really nice then. I stuck it in a corner of my Dad's barn for about 30 years. I found it again when he moved, couldn't believe how much it deteriorated. Dirt floor. I had a 37 Cord 810 stored in there and when my parents moved I put it up for sale. The dirt floor did a number on the floorboards, rockers, and lower fenders on it too. They never looked wet but I guess a lot of ground moisture still came up through the dirt, Joe.


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## GVS

rarefish383 said:


> I have posted those before, maybe when this thread started. I used to throw the gray handle when I was a kid, it was really nice then. I stuck it in a corner of my Dad's barn for about 30 years. I found it again when he moved, couldn't believe how much it deteriorated. Dirt floor. I had a 37 Cord 810 stored in there and when my parents moved I put it up for sale. The dirt floor did a number on the floorboards, rockers, and lower fenders on it too. They never looked wet but I guess a lot of ground moisture still came up through the dirt, Joe.



A shame about the Cord.Really, a car kept on grass or dirt will go to hell fast if left there for very long.


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## rarefish383

I went out in the garage and checked to see if my doubles were OK in this cold. Turns out the gray handled one is not my Plumb, it's temporarily MIA, probably in the shed. The gray handle is a True Temper Kelly Perfect 3 1/2. If I'm gonna mess with these old doubles I need to get a belt sander like on Forged In Fire. I grabbed the file I use on my rakers and it just skated across the steel. Made a nice little ringing noise. I think the old American Beauty is the sharpest on I have now so I'm heading out back to make a little Gum tree disapear, Joe.


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## rarefish383

GVS said:


> A shame about the Cord.Really, a car kept on grass or dirt will go to hell fast if left there for very long.


Most folks now a days don't know what a Cord is. This one had been street rodded back in the 50's. The nose had a 48 Lincoln hood grafted on the end, and the fender tips grafted over the hide away head lights. Still had the coffin nose hood underneath, and the hand cranks for the headlights inside. The Lycoming V8, and front wheel drive was gone. It had an Olds Rocket V8 with 6 Strohmbergs, 4 speed auto and a Columbia 2 speed rear out of the Lincoln. I actually met a couple guys that remembered the car doing the show circuit in the 50's and 60's. It was titled as a 52 Cord-O-Matic on a home built title. I remember the guy that built it, his name was Wentz out of Baltimore, Md, Joe.


----------



## Lowhog

Picked up a couple hafts at L&M fleet supply in Detroit Lakes.


----------



## Multifaceted

@Lowhog - nice hanging job - top wedge looks tight and seems as if you picked a haft with nice straight grain! Looks like a House Handle, good hafts... most of the time... Make sure you give that top wedge a generous and repeated coating of BLO. You don't have to let dry and wipe away, 30 minutes will go by and that end grain just soaks it right up. Keep adding to it until it won't take it up any more. It'll swell that wood so tight that the head won't budge at all.

One last thing, and this is just me being picky, but I'd probably trim that wood on top so it's 1/8"-3/16" proud. Sitting tall like that is fine until you start swinging it. If you make a glancing swipe or use it to split, that wood is going to shear off and eventually (potentially) split the end grain. Cutting it flush is the best protection against that, but I feel that keeping about and 1/8-3/16 above and swelling the wood with drying oil just locks that head on there and it'll be on for a very long time.

Overall, it looks great.I have a very similar Craftsman single bit 3.75 lb to hang, probably will be my next project.


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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> Yep the ole Mann. Just like to own other people's handy work [emoji38]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



If you give me liberty on envisioning the end result, I'll take it on, for sure! Heck, I might just happen to have a spare leather double bit sheath lying around that feels so empty and neglected....


----------



## Lowhog

We warmed up to 8 below. I'm hoping that is still cold enough to shrink the wood on this haft so I can get this head off. The haft is in nice shape yet.


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## svk

Lowhog said:


> We warmed up to 8 below. I'm hoping that is still cold enough to shrink the wood on this haft so I can get this head off. The haft is in nice shape yet.View attachment 623082


Put it near your stove to get it ultra dry.


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## Lowhog

svk said:


> Put it near your stove to get it ultra dry.


I'll give that a try next.


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## LondonNeil

Perma blue? Is that gun blue? For the head? Is it durable?


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## svk

I've rehung a few heads that were very well wedged only to have them loose the next time I picked up the tool. Can only assume that the handles were not totally dry from the factory. Will always try to let them dry going forward if I have time.


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## Lowhog

Yes its a cold blue for guns. Durable? I guess we will find out!


----------



## Lowhog

A real quick kiss on the mower blade sharpener not to mess up the temper. A hand file will not touch the bits on this head they are hard.


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## Good Feller

I have a youth hatchet I'm hoping to get to work on soon. I'll try to figure out how to put pics on here, I'd love to learn as much about it as I can.


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## rarefish383

Lowhog said:


> A real quick kiss on the mower blade sharpener not to mess up the temper. A hand file will not touch the bits on this head they are hard.View attachment 623108
> View attachment 623109


I worked on my True Temper Kelly Perfect for a while yesterday with a file. There were a couple small rolled over spots where my wife chopped out a stump with it and hit a rock. Very small spot. Where the steel was rolled a little, the file took it right off. When I got past the ding, the file just skated over the steel. I like that grinder, I think the file would clean up the grind marks nicely, Joe.


----------



## Multifaceted

I work on and sharpen axes quite often and I also recommend using a file, particularly a double-cut/single-cut bastard mill file. Nicholson makes one called the 'Axe File' and I find it to be disappointing, such are just about any Nicholson file you buy in today's market. The older American made ones were much better, IMHO.

For coarse and controlled material removal on hardened steel I find the inexpensive Kobalt 8" Bastard File to be of good quality. Thick stock, cuts very well. Has double and single cut, double cut really helps in resetting the profile and cuts very aggressively. I can't recommend enough and you can find it at your local Lowes (North America only): https://m.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-8-in-File/4326447

Keep and use a file card to keep the teeth free of metal shavings to continue to cut well.

Once you get the edge profile established and create that burr, use your sharpening stones to further sharpen and hone the edge, then strop. Even the smallest burr can be the difference in cutting effectiveness.


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## Good Feller




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## Good Feller

She needs a lot of work but I think I can restore to a new state of beauty.


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## Multifaceted

Good Feller said:


> She needs a lot of work but I think I can restore to a new state of beauty.



You got a nice looking project there! Looks like a roofer's hatchet. Any idea of the weight or maker?


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> I've rehung a few heads that were very well wedged only to have them loose the next time I picked up the tool. Can only assume that the handles were not totally dry from the factory. Will always try to let them dry going forward if I have time.



Hmm... that's not good product from a handle supplier. How much BLO or drying oil do you apply on the end grain of the eye/wedge? Also, have you ever heard of a product called Swel-Lock?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006ZP8H...t=&hvlocphy=9008033&hvtargid=pla-386259174436


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## Good Feller

No idea of the maker as it's in pretty bad shape. It's only as big as my hand, and can't weigh more than 3-4 ounces.


----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> I work on and sharpen axes quite often and I also recommend using a file, particularly a double-cut/single-cut bastard mill file. Nicholson makes one called the 'Axe File' and I find it to be disappointing, such are just about any Nicholson file you buy in today's market. The older American made ones were much better, IMHO.
> 
> For coarse and controlled material removal on hardened steel I find the inexpensive Kobalt 8" Bastard File to be of good quality. Thick stock, cuts very well. Has double and single cut, double cut really helps in resetting the profile and cuts very aggressively. I can't recommend enough and you can find it at your local Lowes (North America only): https://m.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-
> 
> Keep and use a file card to keep the teeth free of metal shavings to continue to cut well.
> 
> Once you get the edge profile established and create that burr, use your sharpening stones to further sharpen and hone the edge, then strop. Even the smallest burr can be the difference in cutting effectiveness.


A guy that used to work for my Dad would use stones and strop. He would get an ax scary sharp. I was about 16, had just started driving. I was stuck on the ground limbing up a giant Cottonwood. I kept complaining to Dad about how heavy the Homelite Super 1050 was for ground work. He said go grab that ax Rufus sharpened. I was walking along knocking off limbs as big as my upper arm with one stroke. Cottonwood is soft, but I was impressed. Then I swung through one limb and caught another one right above the head and snapped it off. Was back on the 1050 the rest of the day.


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> A guy that used to work for my Dad would use stones and strop. He would get an ax scary sharp. I was about 16, had just started driving. I was stuck on the ground limbing up a giant Cottonwood. I kept complaining to Dad about how heavy the Homelite Super 1050 was for ground work. He said go grab that ax Rufus sharpened. I was walking along knocking off limbs as big as my upper arm with one stroke. Cottonwood is soft, but I was impressed. Then I swung through one limb and caught another one right above the head and snapped it off. Was back on the 1050 the rest of the day.



Rufus sounds like a guy who knew how to file and sharpen, a veritable "doctor".

I'm very methodical about sharpening my axes, from primary and secondary bevels, edge geometry, profiling, sharpening and stropping. I like mine shaving sharp. The axe is ready if you can dry shave the hair off of your arms, and I have the patchy forearms to prove it. A sharp axe is a safe axe. I'll sharpen any axe you put into my service and it will impress, I guarantee it.


----------



## Trx250r180

Quit getting notifications for this thread ,looks like page 12 is where i left off ,lol ,I found 2 axe heads in my own garage did not even know i had ,bet they have been there 20 years or so ,an 8 lb mall and a double bit head ,so rehung them on some link handles they had locally in stock ,the mall works real well ,better than the council i picked up new this year ,will try to get some pics for you guys .found a couple splitting wedges made from metal also did not know i had .


----------



## Good Feller

Multifaceted said:


> Rufus sounds like a guy who knew how to file and sharpen, a veritable "doctor".
> 
> I'm very methodical about sharpening my axes, from primary and secondary bevels, edge geometry, profiling, sharpening and stropping. I like mine shaving sharp. The axe is ready if you can dry shave the hair off of your arms, and I have the patchy forearms to prove it. A sharp axe is a safe axe. I'll sharpen any axe you put into my service and it will impress, I guarantee it.


There's something about honing the perfect edge that's both relaxing and satisfying.


----------



## lead farmer

Trx250r180 said:


> Quit getting notifications for this thread ,looks like page 12 is where i left off ,lol ,I found 2 axe heads in my own garage did not even know i had ,bet they have been there 20 years or so ,an 8 lb mall and a double bit head ,so rehung them on some link handles they had locally in stock ,the mall works real well ,better than the council i picked up new this year ,will try to get some pics for you guys .found a couple splitting wedges made from metal also did not know i had .


Pics you slacker 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Multifaceted

Good Feller said:


> There's something about honing the perfect edge that's both relaxing and satisfying.



There is indeed, it's very cathartic.


----------



## Good Feller

Multifaceted said:


> There is indeed, it's very cathartic.


It's probably not a good practice but I do the dry shave test for confirmation of job adequately done.


----------



## Multifaceted

Good Feller said:


> It's probably not a good practice but I do the dry shave test for confirmation of job adequately done.



It's the woodsman's litmus test.


----------



## 95custmz

Yes, You know it's sharp when you can shave your fully grown beard with it.


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Hmm... that's not good product from a handle supplier. How much BLO or drying oil do you apply on the end grain of the eye/wedge? Also, have you ever heard of a product called Swel-Lock?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006ZP8H...t=&hvlocphy=9008033&hvtargid=pla-386259174436


Those few were hardware store handles. Literally pounded on the heads and then pounded in the wedge yet they were loose 6-12 months later. Did not use BLO.


----------



## 95custmz

Can anyone identify this axe head? Markings, "M" over "BN".


----------



## Trx250r180

Not sure what brands ,wire wheeled the loose rust leaving the patina,wiped some 3&1 oil on them i did not grind the edge that was already there,cleaned up with a file and got a usable edge ,these are my first and second axe handle installs ever , watched billy ray do handle fitment and just did his method ,i used a wood chisel and not a draw knife though ,took about 30 min per axe to fit them,i want to shave the laquer coat off sometime and reburn and oil the handles ,i reused the round wedge that was in the double bit.double bit has no markings, the mall has something above the 8 sm sure they are cheaper axes but had to save them lol


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## Trx250r180

rarefish383 said:


> I worked on my True Temper Kelly Perfect for a while yesterday with a file. There were a couple small rolled over spots where my wife chopped out a stump with it and hit a rock. Very small spot. Where the steel was rolled a little, the file took it right off. When I got past the ding, the file just skated over the steel. I like that grinder, I think the file would clean up the grind marks nicely, Joe.


The 2 i just did were like that also ,i think bench grinders harden the edge ,once i got through the outer layer with the file it worked real good ,and i was able to shape the edge with the file i dress chain saw bars with .


----------



## Lowhog

Trx250r180 said:


> Not sure what brands ,wire wheeled the loose rust leaving the patina,wiped some 3&1 oil on them i did not grind the edge that was already there,cleaned up with a file and got a usable edge ,these are my first and second axe handle installs ever , watched billy ray do handle fitment and just did his method ,i used a wood chisel and not a draw knife though ,took about 30 min per axe to fit them,i want to shave the laquer coat off sometime and reburn and oil the handles ,i reused the round wedge that was in the double bit.double bit has no markings, the mall has something above the 8 sm sure they are cheaper axes but had to save them lolView attachment 623217
> View attachment 623218
> View attachment 623219
> View attachment 623220
> View attachment 623221
> View attachment 623222
> View attachment 623223


Nice job!


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## Lowhog

I ran back for this.

I'm a bad boy!


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## rarefish383

I'd have run from here to there for that one. If you ever find one with Savage on it let me know. I collect Savage model 1899's, so anything Savage is cool, Joe.


----------



## Lowhog

95custmz said:


> View attachment 623210
> Can anyone identify this axe head? Markings, "M" over "BN".


If your on facebook join the axe junkie group. Someone in that group would know those markings.


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## Good Feller

Lowhog said:


> I ran back for this.View attachment 623341
> View attachment 623343
> I'm a bad boy!


That's awesome!


----------



## Good Feller

Does the majority of people on here buy handles for their restorations? I've made a couple from kiln dried hickory and was wondering if you can make handles from hickory branches or if the core wood would make them weak?


----------



## Multifaceted

Can't speak for others, but I do, solely out of necessity. I want to make my own, it's just that none of the hickories on my property are a problem, so I just let them continue to grow. There's a good bit of Ash, though, so I might try to save a straight log and cut stock with a chainsaw. I would buy hickory lumber, but the thickest I can find is 4/4, and it ain't cheap. 4/4 is probably enough to make it work, but I would rather have a little bit extra as margin for error, so 5/4 is what I'm looking for...

As to the limbwood, it might work, but the grain circumference is going to be very small compared to the a wider log, and it will be virtually impossible to get a piece with straight grain orientation for a striking handle. I could be wrong, that's just my take on it.

100% sapwood is ideal, but I remember reading somewhere that the U.S. Forest Service states in their service manuals that up to 50% heartwood is acceptable if not satisfactory, so long as the grain orientation is <45°; closer to 90° is ideal.


----------



## rarefish383

I was just watching the morning car shows. There was an advertisement for "Evaporust". Do a search and check out their website. They actually have a picture of before and after on a hatchet, Joe


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> I was just watching the morning car shows. There was an advertisement for "Evaporust". Do a search and check out their website. They actually have a picture of before and after on a hatchet, Joe



I've used it, works as advertised. It was what I used for my recent Hults Bruk, simply soaked the head overnight in large plastic bag clipped to the side of my utility sink with a spring clamp. I got the 32oz bottle, about $8-10 from Advance Auto Parts. You can reuse it too.

Before:






After:


----------



## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> Not sure what brands ,wire wheeled the loose rust leaving the patina,wiped some 3&1 oil on them i did not grind the edge that was already there,cleaned up with a file and got a usable edge ,these are my first and second axe handle installs ever , watched billy ray do handle fitment and just did his method ,i used a wood chisel and not a draw knife though ,took about 30 min per axe to fit them,i want to shave the laquer coat off sometime and reburn and oil the handles ,i reused the round wedge that was in the double bit.double bit has no markings, the mall has something above the 8 sm sure they are cheaper axes but had to save them lolView attachment 623217
> View attachment 623218
> View attachment 623219
> View attachment 623220
> View attachment 623221
> View attachment 623222
> View attachment 623223



How the heck did I miss this post?

My last alert took me further down the thread. Good job, they look great! I like to use a 4-in-Hand rasp to fit my heads, takes a little longer, but it gets them on there tight enough to where you could probably swing it for a while without a wedge. (Though, I would never, ever do that)


----------



## rarefish383

Does that get it clean enough to start bluing without any other prep? I'm gonna brown the next unmarked double I pick up, or if I find one in the shed, Joe.


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> Does that get it clean enough to start bluing without any other prep? I'm gonna brown the next unmarked double I pick up, or if I find one in the shed, Joe.



Birchwood Casey states that the steel needs to be "brightened" — at least it does for the Super Blue. I end up brightening it and smoothing out any surface scratches for an even finish, especially if I'm doing the rust blueing technique. I use a pneumatic die grinder with coarse pads, but if you do that, be very careful especially near the hardened steel because it will get hot. I keep a dunking bucket of water nearby in case it gets hot to the touch.

Here is what it looks like all brightened up:


----------



## Lowhog

Good Feller said:


> That's awesome!





Multifaceted said:


> @Lowhog - nice hanging job - top wedge looks tight and seems as if you picked a haft with nice straight grain! Looks like a House Handle, good hafts... most of the time... Make sure you give that top wedge a generous and repeated coating of BLO. You don't have to let dry and wipe away, 30 minutes will go by and that end grain just soaks it right up. Keep adding to it until it won't take it up any more. It'll swell that wood so tight that the head won't budge at all.
> 
> One last thing, and this is just me being picky, but I'd probably trim that wood on top so it's 1/8"-3/16" proud. Sitting tall like that is fine until you start swinging it. If you make a glancing swipe or use it to split, that wood is going to shear off and eventually (potentially) split the end grain. Cutting it flush is the best protection against that, but I feel that keeping about and 1/8-3/16 above and swelling the wood with drying oil just locks that head on there and it'll be on for a very long time.
> 
> Overall, it looks great.I have a very similar Craftsman single bit 3.75 lb to hang, probably will be my next project.


I will take your advise and cut it down, the clear on the handle will be removed also. I'm going to give coffee grinds a shot at staining and a coat of blo.


----------



## Lowhog

I found this old chain hanging on one of our elm a few years back and

the hookaroon in the shop. The old log home I live in was built in the 1800's. My guess they were used for wood chores.


----------



## Good Feller

Multifaceted said:


> I've used it, works as advertised. It was what I used for my recent Hults Bruk, simply soaked the head overnight in large plastic bag clipped to the side of my utility sink with a spring clamp. I got the 32oz bottle, about $8-10 from Advance Auto Parts. You can reuse it too.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:


That's a real interesting axe head.


----------



## Good Feller

Multifaceted said:


> Can't speak for others, but I do, solely out of necessity. I want to make my own, it's just that none of the hickories on my property are a problem, so I just let them continue to grow. There's a good bit of Ash, though, so I might try to save a straight log and cut stock with a chainsaw. I would buy hickory lumber, but the thickest I can find is 4/4, and it ain't cheap. 4/4 is probably enough to make it work, but I would rather have a little bit extra as margin for error, so 5/4 is what I'm looking for...
> 
> As to the limbwood, it might work, but the grain circumference is going to be very small compared to the a wider log, and it will be virtually impossible to get a piece with straight grain orientation for a striking handle. I could be wrong, that's just my take on it.
> 
> 100% sapwood is ideal, but I remember reading somewhere that the U.S. Forest Service states in their service manuals that up to 50% heartwood is acceptable if not satisfactory, so long as the grain orientation is <45°; closer to 90° is ideal.


I used to work at wolverine hardwoods and was gonna ask them some 3 or less 5/4. They usually sell it for next to nothing. I've made a couple handles like that. After the first one I could tell I was hooked and will have to buy some of the better tools for it.


----------



## Good Feller

Multifaceted said:


> Can't speak for others, but I do, solely out of necessity. I want to make my own, it's just that none of the hickories on my property are a problem, so I just let them continue to grow. There's a good bit of Ash, though, so I might try to save a straight log and cut stock with a chainsaw. I would buy hickory lumber, but the thickest I can find is 4/4, and it ain't cheap. 4/4 is probably enough to make it work, but I would rather have a little bit extra as margin for error, so 5/4 is what I'm looking for...
> 
> As to the limbwood, it might work, but the grain circumference is going to be very small compared to the a wider log, and it will be virtually impossible to get a piece with straight grain orientation for a striking handle. I could be wrong, that's just my take on it.
> 
> 100% sapwood is ideal, but I remember reading somewhere that the U.S. Forest Service states in their service manuals that up to 50% heartwood is acceptable if not satisfactory, so long as the grain orientation is <45°; closer to 90° is ideal.


Was your ash attacked by those damn emerald ash borers?


----------



## rarefish383

If any one ever sees an ax with a Savage logo/name on it let me know. I collect pretty much all things Savage, Joe.


----------



## Multifaceted

Good Feller said:


> That's a real interesting axe head.



Thanks, it's a vintage Hults Bruk 'Wira' pattern, traded for it with my buddy and collector in Sweden, had shipped over to me.



Good Feller said:


> Was your ash attacked by those damn emerald ash borers?



Most of them, yes, seems like mostly the white ash. We still have some green ash living, for now, I suppose. The small one I cut down for the Axe Cordwood Challenge last week wasn't showing signs of borer damage, but it was dead or on borrowed time. The limbs still had new growth shoots that seemed green; however, it bared no leaves this past spring/summer. Today I got to chopping up the limbs, which showed signs of deadwood. Just about all of them had carpenter ant damage, hollowed out and I found dead ones and larvae as I split it up.


----------



## Good Feller

Multifaceted said:


> Thanks, it's a vintage Hults Bruk 'Wira' pattern, traded for it with my buddy and collector in Sweden, had shipped over to me.
> 
> 
> 
> Most of them, yes, seems like mostly the white ash. We still have some green ash living, for now, I suppose. The small one I cut down for the Axe Cordwood Challenge last week wasn't showing signs of borer damage, but it was dead or on borrowed time. The limbs still had new growth shoots that seemed green; however, it bared no leaves this past spring/summer. Today I got to chopping up the limbs, which showed signs of deadwood. Just about all of them had carpenter ant damage, hollowed out and I found dead ones and larvae as I split it up.


I've seen some of the older white growing new live shoots. I've taken a lot of the dead ones down for people in the last couple of years. The carpenter ants have been wreaking havoc on our red and black oaks. I'd like to see the ash make a come back. I'm a little torn because on one hand I'm like look at all that firewood and on the other it sucks to see all the dead ash trees.


----------



## Multifaceted

Good Feller said:


> I've seen some of the older white growing new live shoots. I've taken a lot of the dead ones down for people in the last couple of years. The carpenter ants have been wreaking havoc on our red and black oaks. I'd like to see the ash make a come back. I'm a little torn because on one hand I'm like look at all that firewood and on the other it sucks to see all the dead ash trees.



Yeah, I had a pretty large red oak come down due to severe carpenter ant damage. The tree was a death trap, probably 100' and another 28-30' at it's base. I would like to see the Ash come back too, but from what I hear from the Forest Service and other tree guys, they say the day of reconning has already happened... Now it's just a matter of time. Some species of Ash seem more resilient, but eventually they take them. It's a shame, I agree. It's a great wood all around, they grow fast as far as other hardwoods go, great firewood, lumber for tool handles, lutiers love them for acoustic instruments...


----------



## Good Feller

Multifaceted said:


> Yeah, I had a pretty large red oak come down due to severe carpenter ant damage. The tree was a death trap, probably 100' and another 28-30' at it's base. I would like to see the Ash come back too, but from what I hear from the Forest Service and other tree guys, they say the day of reconning has already happened... Now it's just a matter of time. Some species of Ash seem more resilient, but eventually they take them. It's a shame, I agree. It's a great wood all around, they grow fast as far as other hardwoods go, great firewood, lumber for tool handles, lutiers love them for acoustic instruments...


Aside from the mountains of ash produced when burning, it is a great firewood. I think baseball bats are, or were made from ash also. Someone told me we have some kind of beetle like the borer heading towards Michigan that attacks maple. Have you heard anything about that?


----------



## Lowhog

Good Feller said:


> Aside from the mountains of ash produced when burning, it is a great firewood. I think baseball bats are, or were made from ash also. Someone told me we have some kind of beetle like the borer heading towards Michigan that attacks maple. Have you heard anything about that?[/QUOTI
> 
> 
> Good Feller said:
> 
> 
> 
> Aside from the mountains of ash produced when burning, it is a great firewood. I think baseball bats are, or were made from ash also. Someone told me we have some kind of beetle like the borer heading towards Michigan that attacks maple. Have you heard anything about that?
> 
> 
> 
> I lost American elm on the farm but they keep bouncing back. Alot of young trees poping out of the ground. I hope that ash beetle never makes it this far.
Click to expand...


----------



## kevin j

has anyone used any of these methods for metal patina or darkening? I have used all on carbon steel mora knives and other similar type projects and they’ve all worked well. 
1. Walnut husk’s the outer sticky part. That’s only available seasonal. 
2. mustard (which contains vinegar)
3. vinegar
4. boiling with assorted tree barks in water on outdoor camp stove. That’s an old method for darkening traps which I did last fall but I’ve never tried it with a knife or an axe.


----------



## Multifaceted

kevin j said:


> has anyone used any of these methods for metal patina or darkening? I have used all on carbon steel mora knives and other similar type projects and they’ve all worked well.
> 1. Walnut husk’s the outer sticky part. That’s only available seasonal.
> 2. mustard (which contains vinegar)
> 3. vinegar
> 4. boiling with assorted tree barks in water on outdoor camp stove. That’s an old method for darkening traps which I did last fall but I’ve never tried it with a knife or an axe.



I've done mustard and vinegar with lackluster results (only on axe heads). I have heard about using tea to stain the steel, never tried it though... perhaps I will.

Personal bias, but I like the look and durability of the rust blued forced patina.


----------



## Good Feller

kevin j said:


> has anyone used any of these methods for metal patina or darkening? I have used all on carbon steel mora knives and other similar type projects and they’ve all worked well.
> 1. Walnut husk’s the outer sticky part. That’s only available seasonal.
> 2. mustard (which contains vinegar)
> 3. vinegar
> 4. boiling with assorted tree barks in water on outdoor camp stove. That’s an old method for darkening traps which I did last fall but I’ve never tried it with a knife or an axe.


I just recently heard of the walnut husk patina. I've never tried it, but as a kid we used to collect walnuts and run them over with the cars. And I can say with the utmost certainty that they will stain anything and everything! Also I heard this practice leaves a yellow coloring in your patina.


----------



## LondonNeil

Buckin' Billy does a video trying tea, result looks very good


----------



## rarefish383

I've had green Walnuts leave my hands quite yellow. I used to fill a bucket full of Hickory husks to use for smoking meat. After a day the water was so black, and the Hickory smell was so strong, any chance that would stain the metal? I did a search of tannic acid coloring metal and there was a lot of stuff there, I would imagine it's the tannic acid in the tea.

Now that this good reading weather is almost over, any recommended books on axes? I was trying to find info on my American Beauty, and found the American Beauty Rose symbol was registered to the American Hardware co. in 1914, in Pittsburgh. Mine came from California PA, which is close to Pittsburgh. The one I have is the only one I've ever seen, but maybe I wasn't looking very hard, Joe


----------



## dancan

Logwood trap dye works very well to get metal black , better than tea but tea works .


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## svk

Vinegar will turn the head grey and the tempered cutting edge will be black. Needs to be hit with oil as soon as it comes out of the bath though or it rusts immediately.


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Yeah, I had a pretty large red oak come down due to severe carpenter ant damage. The tree was a death trap, probably 100' and another 28-30' at it's base. I would like to see the Ash come back too, but from what I hear from the Forest Service and other tree guys, they say the day of reconning has already happened... Now it's just a matter of time. Some species of Ash seem more resilient, but eventually they take them. It's a shame, I agree. It's a great wood all around, they grow fast as far as other hardwoods go, great firewood, lumber for tool handles, lutiers love them for acoustic instruments...


I might be wrong but I always understood that ants only removed material from trees that was already dead.


----------



## Good Feller

svk said:


> I might be wrong but I always understood that ants only removed material from trees that was already dead.


I'm not an expert but I helped to clean up some down trees at one of our campgrounds. They were all live, red oaks with extensive damage from ant colonies. Perhaps you're thinking termites? I don't mean to offend anyone.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> I might be wrong but I always understood that ants only removed material from trees that was already dead.



I honestly do not know, but the red oak I mentioned was still alive, though it was showing signs of severe die-back. Almost the entire base from the stump up to about 4.5' was one huge active nest. It was surprise, we decided to drop it because it was obviously dying, had no idea about the ant nest. They sure looked like ants, like what I've always seen as a carpenter ant. I remember it vividly as I spent about 35 minutes with insecticide spraying them because they were trying to move the nest. I can show you the stump and some of the damaged wood that I threw in the junk pile if you want to see.


----------



## Multifaceted

Good Feller said:


> Aside from the mountains of ash produced when burning, it is a great firewood. I think baseball bats are, or were made from ash also. Someone told me we have some kind of beetle like the borer heading towards Michigan that attacks maple. Have you heard anything about that?


 
No, haven't heard of it, only really familiar with what's local. Around here it's mainly carpenter ants, emerald ash borer, and Japanese beetles which defoliate Sassafras trees as well as people's gardens.


----------



## Good Feller

Multifaceted said:


> No, haven't heard of it, only really familiar with what's local. Around here it's mainly carpenter ants, emerald ash borer, and Japanese beetles which defoliate Sassafras trees as well as people's gardens.


I'm familiar with those three for sure. I just had a lady ask me if I heard anything about a maple borer. I really hope there isn't such an invasive species. That'd be detrimental.


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> I honestly do not know, but the red oak I mentioned was still alive, though it was showing signs of severe die-back. Almost the entire base from the stump up to about 4.5' was one huge active nest. It was surprise, we decided to drop it because it was obviously dying, had no idea about the ant nest. They sure looked like ants, like what I've always seen as a carpenter ant. I remember it vividly as I spent about 35 minutes with insecticide spraying them because they were trying to move the nest. I can show you the stump and some of the damaged wood that I threw in the junk pile if you want to see.


Oops I miss typed. I meant to say they only remove the dead material from trees. I.e. they find a tree that has core rot (and an entry point to the core) then they remove the dead material to make their nest.


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## rarefish383

svk said:


> Oops I miss typed. I meant to say they only remove the dead material from trees. I.e. they find a tree that has core rot (and an entry point to the core) then they remove the dead material to make their nest.


That's pretty much how the big black carpenter ants work. They do not attack live wood. Many Oaks will start to rot from the stump up. Has nothing to do with the life of the tree. The life of the tree is the cambium under the bark. The wood is the strength of the tree. The giant Live Oak, called the Angle Oak, I posted pics of a couple months ago is very hollow all over. They have telephone poles propped under almost every limb, yet it is very healthy and growing. The heart wood is actually dead. here's a quicky coarse in tree health, Joe.

https://www.arborday.org/trees/ringstreenatomy.cfm


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## Lowhog

New haft for my old 6 pound Woodlings Verona maul I purchased some 20 odd years ago.


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## Lowhog

I sanded off the factory clear shellac on the new handle,


gave it a coffee grind stain and a coat of linseed oil. The only thing left on the craftsman is sharpen the edge.


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## svk

Looking great!


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## Lowhog

Thank You!


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## rarefish383

I found my Plumb double, it's a little cruiser, was behind the big ones. The handle is shot and there are two big dings on one side. I think they are too deep to get out, so I'll just sharpen it best I can, Joe.


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## Lowhog

The


rarefish383 said:


> I found my Plumb double, it's a little cruiser, was behind the big ones. The handle is shot and there are two big dings on one side. I think they are too deep to get out, so I'll just sharpen it best I can, Joe.


 The plumb cruiser goes for nice money on ebay.


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## LondonNeil

I'd just like to say, @dancan is THE nicest guy. A really kind gentleman. When I get a moment more time, there will be photos. Until then, wow!


----------



## abbott295

My son has sent me a link to a method for seasoning cast iron cookware with flaxseed oil (food grade version of linseed oil. ) I know axe heads are not cast iron, but I wonder if it could work. It says it gives "a slick surface so indestructible that touch ups are almost never necessary." It is basically baking multiple coats of flaxseed oil onto, and into, the cast iron at oven temperatures so it should be safe for tempered steel. I am on my phone and don't know how to link to it, but it is at cooksillustrated.com. "The ultimate way to season cast iron." 

He says he did it to one of their pans, not exactly following all the method and had to stop with that because of the smell in the house, "paint and gas." 

abbott295


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## svk

Makes sense. Could be done in the oven like a fry pan.


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## rarefish383

I use cast iron for all of my fish, like Tuna, Mako, and Wahoo. I put the cast skillet on the grill, run it up to 600. Put a little Olive oil in and throw the fish steak on, let it sear on one side for about a minute, flip and repeat, only takes a few minutes for 2 to 2 1/2 inch steaks. Beef steaks the same but about 4 minutes per side, Joe.


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## rarefish383

All of my cast is Lodge, here's their process for seasoning, Joe.
http://www.lodgemfg.com/use-and-care/what-is-seasoning


----------



## LondonNeil

Bluing with oil/burning oil on to steel/iron gives a fine finish, with the right oil, I just wasn't sure if it would affect the temper.

As to oil, I made the mistake of trying to season a wok with olive oil once or ..... Ten times, useless. Then I was told it's because it burns at too low a temp, rapeseed/flax are much better, something about mono unsaturates content iirc.

I'm very tempted by bluing with oil.... But the remnants of light blue paint on my gift from Dan won't survive....hmmmm


So.... I bought some kettle descaler.... Just a cheap acid, for the cleaning of light rust.... What do people use to neutralise the acid and prevent rapid flash rusting on removal from the bath? Baking soda? Rennie? (That's an indigestion/heart burn remedy in case you don't have that brand) something else?

Might try tea bath after.... Or its the flax and the oven, hmmm, decisions.


----------



## rarefish383

I just got a bottle of Birchwood Casey's Plumb Brown solution. It is a rust bluing process that leaves the metal brown. It says to use Birchwood Casey's "Barricade" sealer after you've reached the color you want, it is a rust inhibitor. To apply the rust solution you have to heat the metal till water sizzles when dripped on, or about 275 degrees. I did a set of percussion shotgun barrels many years ago, and it looked really nice. I also got a quart of "Evaporust", every one I've asked says it works well, for rust removal, Joe.


----------



## abbott295

Link to the article:https://www.cooksillustrated.com/how_tos/5820-the-ultimate-way-to-season-cast-iron

It is pretty much how Lodge does it. It says to repeat five times. 

And I think I remember being told in shop class that quenching a hot piece of steel in oil would blue it. I haven't tried it, but if it is hot enough to need quenching, it would affect the temper.


----------



## dancan

I'm not a fan of shiny axes , I'll usually grind and file away any defects to get things into shape and that's it , after I rehaft I'll coat the head with whatever mix of linseed/teak/tongue/walnut oil I have on hand and let it setup .
Neil , I'm glad it made it !
Not sure what that one is but the blue , scandi grind and stamped 700g makes me think it's a Scandi of some type .
Drill out the remains of the wood and reuse the steel wedge , get a nice haft from Hultafors for the refit .


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## LondonNeil

Yes the postmen delivered it yesterday, made me very happy all day!

I know very little more then I've read here, so basically just that it's likely Scandinavian from the blue colour. I'll acid clean off the light rust to see if there is any marking hiding but there's nothing apparent. Lovely head though, should make a great kindling splitter. Thank you!


----------



## dancan

I didn't see anything other than the weight stamp .
Some of the Scandi exports weren't labeled at all , some just "Made in Sweden" and some had the manufacturer .
You're welcome , I hope it serves you well .

I did pick up another 3lb "made in Sweden" today


----------



## Multifaceted

Such awesome progress in this thread these past few days, looking forward to seeing the fruits of labor! I've got an old 70's era Craftsman 4 lb single bit that I'm working on as a gift for whomever I deem worthy. I'm reaching a point to where I have too many axes to use. Some barely see any work because I so many others that have preference or utility advantage... I still love it, though. Axes will always be cool to me.


----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> Such awesome progress in this thread these past few days, looking forward to seeing the fruits of labor! I've got an old 70's era Craftsman 4 lb single bit that I'm working on as a gift for whomever I deem worthy. I'm reaching a point to where I have too many axes to use.
> No such thing as too many, until you have one of each, and start to accumulate doubles. Pun intended, Joe.


----------



## dancan

Hmm , doubles ?
What am I going to do with three 3lbs Swede's lol


----------



## Multifaceted

dancan said:


> Hmm , doubles ?
> What am I going to do with three 3lbs Swede's lol



I like Swedish axes, wanna make a trade? Ha ha, what DON'T you have?


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> No such thing as too many, until you have one of each, and start to accumulate doubles. Pun intended, Joe.



Good chatting with you on the phone earlier today, I learned a lot! I don't like doubles, but I like patterns... there are a lot of patterns with specific uses that I don't need... or do I? Example: I have been looking for (not on eBay) a vintage Rafting Axe to add to my collection. Why do I need that? We don't float timber anymore... but they are so cool!


----------



## rarefish383

dancan said:


> Hmm , doubles ?
> What am I going to do with three 3lbs Swede's lol


I don't know about you, but I know what I would do with three 33 D Swede's!


----------



## Lowhog

Finished the Woodlings maul. The eye was three different sizes and what a bugger that was! The head cleaned up nice with the wire puck on the grinder.


----------



## Lowhog

Used Wetterlings Swedish forest axe I found, wasn't easy these are kind a scarce. Someone burnt 1 inch increment hash marks on the spine. Sanded the handle a bit to clean it up and gave it a coating of blo & beeswax.


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## lead farmer

Lowhog said:


> Used Wetterlings Swedish forest axe I found, wasn't easy these are kind a scarce. Someone burnt 1 inch increment hash marks on the spine. Sanded the handle a bit to clean it up and gave it a coating of blo & beeswax.View attachment 625978
> View attachment 625979
> View attachment 625980


Wonder what the reason for the marks is. Looks kinda cool an different. Nice axe by the way.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Lowhog

lead farmer said:


> Wonder what the reason for the marks is. Looks kinda cool an different. Nice axe by the way.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Must of been a Dave Canterbury bushcraft fan. I think they did this for measuring the height of trees and other bushcraft duties.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Must of been a Dave Canterbury bushcraft fan. I think they did this for measuring the height of trees and other bushcraft duties.



Nice looking Wetterlings!

Let's hope for the sake of both Bushcraft and woodcutting that the previous owner wasn't also a fan of Dave's bucking technique...



Awful, just awful...


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> Nice looking Wetterlings!
> 
> Let's hope for the sake of both Bushcraft and woodcutting that the previous owner wasn't also a fan of Dave's bucking technique...
> 
> 
> 
> Awful, just awful...


Poor Norlund! Looks like a Norlund anyway not sure where the HB came from?


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## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Poor Norlund! Looks like a Norlund anyway not sure where the HB came from?



HB probably means Hudson Bay. Can't verify if it is a Norlund, but that definitely is a Hudson Bay pattern. Dave does like his Norlund axes, though...


----------



## rarefish383

lead farmer said:


> Wonder what the reason for the marks is. Looks kinda cool an different. Nice axe by the way.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


I think those marks are for how many deer he killed with it, Joe.


----------



## LondonNeil

I took 2 minutes to look closer at the axe head I got from @dancan today. I'll posy photos when i have more time but for now, its a nice condition small axe head, just a few dinks from use which i'll clean up, and some surface rust which I'll remove. I'm settling on acid to clean it up and then a week or 2 in a tea stew to patina it. Decided on this as I hope to preserve the blue paint that remains here and there. Only markings I see are '700' on the underside of the poll, which I assume is the weigh in grams (not weighed it yet but it about that size), and 'H7' faintly on the top of the poll. if the markings mean anything to anyone, let me know please.

i guess 700g would be called a 'House axe', yes? what handle length for it? I'm thinking around 18"?

knocked the remains of the (original) handle out. Odd fitment! no split and no wedge, it was literally glued on! A 2-3mm thick layer of resin/epoxy! it must have started to loosen as someone had driven 2 nails in ... they don't make good wedges. i suspect a good fit with a normal wedge system AND a second cross wedged metal wedge or a round wedge should be achievable, but not with just a single wedge as feeling down inside the eye it tapers in quite a bit, then widens again, on the eyeside of the poll, hope that makes sense. So a single front/back split and wedge would lead to a hefty gap at the top of the handle by the poll, it'll need a second wedge to expand the back of the handle and tighten it.

So after a light touch up, head clean, patina and oil with blo, a new hard wood handle fitted by a standard front/back wedge and likely a round step wedge i have salvaged from a broken pickaroon handle, and a sharpen i hope it will be better than when new. handle finish will be blo, treatment before will depend on how it looks but i suspect it will be a light sand and i'd like to make it look old and used by blackening the grain if I can. I need to research that but i'm thinking something black and water based like ink wiped on and allowed to soak in, repeat a few times, then sand back to hopefully remove any darkening except where the grain has taken it deeply. Any tips on this very welcome!


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> I took 2 minutes to look closer at the axe head I got from @dancan today. I'll posy photos when i have more time but for now, its a nice condition small axe head, just a few dinks from use which i'll clean up, and some surface rust which I'll remove. I'm settling on acid to clean it up and then a week or 2 in a tea stew to patina it. Decided on this as I hope to preserve the blue paint that remains here and there. Only markings I see are '700' on the underside of the poll, which I assume is the weigh in grams (not weighed it yet but it about that size), and 'H7' faintly on the top of the poll. if the markings mean anything to anyone, let me know please.
> 
> i guess 700g would be called a 'House axe', yes? what handle length for it? I'm thinking around 18"?
> 
> knocked the remains of the (original) handle out. Odd fitment! no split and no wedge, it was literally glued on! A 2-3mm thick layer of resin/epoxy! it must have started to loosen as someone had driven 2 nails in ... they don't make good wedges. i suspect a good fit with a normal wedge system AND a second cross wedged metal wedge or a round wedge should be achievable, but not with just a single wedge as feeling down inside the eye it tapers in quite a bit, then widens again, on the eyeside of the poll, hope that makes sense. So a single front/back split and wedge would lead to a hefty gap at the top of the handle by the poll, it'll need a second wedge to expand the back of the handle and tighten it.
> 
> So after a light touch up, head clean, patina and oil with blo, a new hard wood handle fitted by a standard front/back wedge and likely a round step wedge i have salvaged from a broken pickaroon handle, and a sharpen i hope it will be better than when new. handle finish will be blo, treatment before will depend on how it looks but i suspect it will be a light sand and i'd like to make it look old and used by blackening the grain if I can. I need to research that but i'm thinking something black and water based like ink wiped on and allowed to soak in, repeat a few times, then sand back to hopefully remove any darkening except where the grain has taken it deeply. Any tips on this very welcome!



Neil, 

700 g would be either a very light axe or a hand hatchet. 40-45cm for the haft length would suffice, so long as you're keeping it as a small axe with handle leverage. 45cm or 18" might be about as long as it would need to be, but try a dry or a mock fit with some paper to get an idea of how it will look. 

Acids like household vinegar will eat away a small later of metal, and like @svk mentioned once before, they are prone to surface rust very quickly and must be oiled right away as well as regularly. You can use a mild wire cup brush on your powered drill to remove surface rust. So long as you do not lean into it very hard it will preserve the patina and residual paint.

As to darkening the grain, a little flame treatment goes a long way. The heat will raise the grain some, so be prepared to do some intermittent light sanding with a medium-to-high grit paper, like 180-220. Don't forget to oil your wood, it will make the grain even more striking in appearance as well as protect it.

Cheers!


----------



## LondonNeil

I understood you need to neutralise the acid by a dip in alkali, to stop the flash rusting, although if you think a wire cup in a drill will not take the paint off I'll try that. TBH its no disaster if it goes wrong, its just a bit of fun to play with it after all.

Just been on youtube...blow torch, gently, to darken the grain, then a lot of coats of blo, seems the way to go.

yes I was unsure if 18"/45 cm would be too large. 16"-18" range seems about right but maybe 16"....decisions decisions.


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> I understood you need to neutralise the acid by a dip in alkali, to stop the flash rusting, although if you think a wire cup in a drill will not take the paint off I'll try that. TBH its no disaster if it goes wrong, its just a bit of fun to play with it after all.
> 
> Just been on youtube...blow torch, gently, to darken the grain, then a lot of coats of blo, seems the way to go.
> 
> yes I was unsure if 18"/45 cm would be too large. 16"-18" range seems about right but maybe 16"....decisions decisions.



Looking forward to seeing the results!


----------



## dancan

Neil , the epoxy set is another hint of Scandi origin .
Hultafors doesn't list a 700g HB
http://www.hultafors.com/hand-tools/axes/hatchet/ 
I'd get one of their replacement hafts if you can't find a nice haft .


----------



## dancan

Speaking of hafts , any thots about a 34" haft on my 3 lb Swede head ?
Too long , too short , just right ?


----------



## rarefish383

Had the pleasure of meeting Multifaceted Monday, turns out he works 2 minutes from me. For a young guy he sure could teach me a thing or two about axes. I've always said I hang out with old guys, they know lots of stuff. I might have to make an amendment to that practice. I might have mentioned, a couple days ago, I was looking for a flat file and found two more hatchet heads. One is a Plumb carpenters, with a hammer poll and a nail puller under the blade, the other is an old Craftsman, from back when I actually enjoyed owning Craftsman tools. Finding those two hatchets reminded me that some where I have my Fathers, Grandfathers hatchet. It sat on Dad's workbench for as long as I can remember. No haft, and he would use it to tap drift pins or peen brass rivets in leather climbing gear. Now I'll be on a quest to find that one. Clarence, thanks for that growler. I was trying to save it to share with my daughter, but looks like she blew her chance, I'm opening it up today, with or without her. I think I might try a before and after experiment, just have to decide which head, with the Evaporust. I'll take pics as I go, Joe.


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> Had the pleasure of meeting Multifaceted Monday, turns out he works 2 minutes from me. For a young guy he sure could teach me a thing or two about axes. I've always said I hang out with old guys, they know lots of stuff. I might have to make an amendment to that practice. I might have mentioned, a couple days ago, I was looking for a flat file and found two more hatchet heads. One is a Plumb carpenters, with a hammer poll and a nail puller under the blade, the other is an old Craftsman, from back when I actually enjoyed owning Craftsman tools. Finding those two hatchets reminded me that some where I have my Fathers, Grandfathers hatchet. It sat on Dad's workbench for as long as I can remember. No haft, and he would use it to tap drift pins or peen brass rivets in leather climbing gear. Now I'll be on a quest to find that one. Clarence, thanks for that growler. I was trying to save it to share with my daughter, but looks like she blew her chance, I'm opening it up today, with or without her. I think I might try a before and after experiment, just have to decide which head, with the Evaporust. I'll take pics as I go, Joe.



Good hanging out, it was nice meeting you as well. Thanks for that rusty older single bit head, and thanks for letting me try out your 660. I'll get to working on your Plumb cruiser soon, until then - enjoy the homebrew!


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Good hanging out, it was nice meeting you as well. Thanks for that rusty older single bit head, and thanks for letting me try out your 660. I'll get to working on your Plumb cruiser soon, until then - enjoy the homebrew!


Cool that you guys are so close together. Wish I had more time when I am driving through in February, we could have done a mini GTG.


----------



## rarefish383

Clarence, put what ever finish on the little plumb you feel looks best. If you hang it, I'm not going to knock it off to brown it. I have to heat it to 275 for the browning solution, so I just lay it on my gas grill, thanks, Joe.


----------



## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Good hanging out, it was nice meeting you as well. Thanks for that rusty older single bit head, and thanks for letting me try out your 660. I'll get to working on your Plumb cruiser soon, until then - enjoy the homebrew!


Well now that your getting out an about meetin new folks, let me know when you got a bit of extra time an I'll stop over

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## rarefish383

lead farmer said:


> Well now that your getting out an about meetin new folks, let me know when you got a bit of extra time an I'll stop over
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Well, he wasn't actually out and about. He was at work and I dragged him kickin and screamin 10 blocks and forced him to drink a beer and made him noodle some big Ash with my half dull 660, Joe.


----------



## rarefish383

Here are the two candidates for the Evaporust treatment, and the Birchwood Casey Plumb Browning, Joe.


----------



## Trx250r180

rarefish383 said:


> Here are the two candidates for the Evaporust treatment, and the Birchwood Casey Plumb Browning, Joe.


I like when they are rusty like that ,wire cup wheel on a 4 1/2 inch grinder leaves a nice color if oil the head once descale ,this mall head looked scaly like those .


----------



## rarefish383

I would usually use a wire brush but I asked a couple friends about the Evaporust and they all say it works well. It's non toxic with no fumes so I can use it in my junk room down stairs without making a bunch of noise while my wife studies. I'll post pics tomorrow, Joe.


----------



## rarefish383

Oh, the other reason I can't use my grinders are, they are all air, and my compressor won't pump this cold. It gets up to about 15 PSI and pops the breaker, Joe.


----------



## lead farmer

rarefish383 said:


> Well, he wasn't actually out and about. He was at work and I dragged him kickin and screamin 10 blocks and forced him to drink a beer and made him noodle some big Ash with my half dull 660, Joe.


So a little kidnapping is in order I see [emoji38]

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## LondonNeil

dancan said:


> Neil , the epoxy set is another hint of Scandi origin .
> Hultafors doesn't list a 700g HB
> http://www.hultafors.com/hand-tools/axes/hatchet/
> I'd get one of their replacement hafts if you can't find a nice haft .



You've come across that glued fit before then? I guess it is why the eye has the odd taperthenexpandagain shape, it sort of gives room for the epoxy. I am however thinking yesterday's 'I'll get a good fit with the right pattern of wedges' may have been overly hopeful. I'm now thinking, without a fairly tight fit before driving the wedges, you are struggling and on to a bad thing. So I'm instead contemplating taking a file to the inside of the eye and reshaping it to a standard, straight eye. I thing I'll have more chance of getting a tight fit on the haft then. Any comments?


----------



## LondonNeil

As for the haft, here I have a bit of a problem. There aren't many (any) farm tool shops in central London. I do have F R Jones very close by....a large large stihl and husqvarna dealer and I'm sure they would get any haft in, but I suspect they won't have any in stock to choose from (I will check though). Other than that.... It's play the internet lottery....hmmm


----------



## LondonNeil

Also as you say which HB handle? They DO seem to have one 700g (1.5lb) head, the Akka forest axe.... It's on a 24" haft...errrmmm

Ignoring weight there are 16" hafts and 20" hafts, but I'm not seeing an 18" and that's what I'm leaning toward....hmmm


----------



## 95custmz

LondonNeil said:


> Also as you say which HB handle? They DO seem to have one 700g (1.5lb) head, the Akka forest axe.... It's on a 24" haft...errrmmm
> 
> Ignoring weight there are 16" hafts and 20" hafts, but I'm not seeing an 18" and that's what I'm leaning toward....hmmm


Buy the 20" and cut two inches off.


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> Clarence, put what ever finish on the little plumb you feel looks best. If you hang it, I'm not going to knock it off to brown it. I have to heat it to 275 for the browning solution, so I just lay it on my gas grill, thanks, Joe.



Are you sure, you really seemed set on browning that little cruiser. I really prefer the forced rust-blueing patina, it's very durable and protects. Think about it some more, I'll need to re-profile the bits a d brighten up the steel any way.




lead farmer said:


> Well now that your getting out an about meetin new folks, let me know when you got a bit of extra time an I'll stop over



Yeah, most certainly. With Joe, it was pretty simple, I've been driving past his house twice a day for a few years now, he's that close to my shop. This time of year it's near dusk by the time I get home, so the best time to meet is on the weekends. I'll let you know when one of these weekends open up, right now just trying to get through this month with my wife's on-call night shift, and got to spend some more time down at my dad's house.



rarefish383 said:


> Well, he wasn't actually out and about. He was at work and I dragged him kickin and screamin 10 blocks and forced him to drink a beer and made him noodle some big Ash with my half dull 660, Joe.



Forced me to drink beer, run a power saw, and run my mouth about axes and show some of my collection? Yeah, I need to be coerced to do any of that, ha ha


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Cool that you guys are so close together. Wish I had more time when I am driving through in February, we could have done a mini GTG.



Aw, dang. So you're not coming by his way now? Would've been good to meet you.


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Aw, dang. So you're not coming by his way now? Would've been good to meet you.


I will still be coming through but with wife and kids so will not have much time to chat. Maybe I could plan to spend the night at a nearby hotel and then leave them at the pool area and come out to see you guys.


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## lead farmer

I put a short handle on this no name head for a wedge beater, we'll you need six inch fingers to rap around the sob. Tried it out an just couldn't hit the same spot twice so a bit of reshaping was in order. Traced a profile on the handle an ran the beatch through the band saw. a bit of rasp work an sand paper and a couple coats of BLO and I might have somthin my midget fingers can get a grip on. [emoji38]

Here's a before an after pic
Sorry for the sideways pic boys. Smart fone dumb operator








Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## lead farmer

Well Holy cow. It posted it correctly [emoji38]

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> I put a short handle on this no name head for a wedge beater, we'll you need six inch fingers to rap around the sob. Tried it out an just couldn't hit the same spot twice so a bit of reshaping was in order. Traced a profile on the handle an ran the beatch through the band saw. a bit of rasp work an sand paper and a couple coats of BLO and I might have somthin my midget fingers can get a grip on. [emoji38]
> 
> Here's a before an after pic
> Sorry for the sideways pic boys. Smart fone dumb operator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



Sweet! A fallers axe! What's the weight?

Also, nice looking 92


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Sweet! A fallers axe! What's the weight?
> 
> Also, nice looking 92


Prolly a 3lb

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> Prolly a 3lb
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



Seems perfect for the job. Is that Beretta 92 hanging on that shotgun sling functional?


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Seems perfect for the job. Is that Beretta 92 hanging on that shotgun sling functional?


Absolutely Sir.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## rarefish383

I was a little disappointed in the WEB. I've found quite a bit if info on most of my old axes. I tried to find a time line on the different Craftsman Logo's and came up with little. Most sites that had similar questions going had all lost pics due to Photobucket. Oh well, Joe.


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## rarefish383

Here's the two after their bath in "Evapo-Rust". On my postal scale the Craftsman ax weighed 2 pounds 5 ounces and the Plumb hatchet was 1 pound 6 ounces I think the Craftsman is going to be the test dummy on the browning solution, Joe.


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## Multifaceted

Joe, one of the things Evaporust does is change some of the oxidation into an inert black-gray layer, which feels gritty to the touch. It is easily removed by a light pass with a wire cup brush on your corded drill, otherwise some fine steel wool and minimal elbow grease. When it's removed, the steel is nice and bright.


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## rarefish383

I hit the two projects with a brass wheel on the Dremel, they came out quite shiny. I'm going to check with a friend that's done some engraving to see what I should use to chase the oval lines and script on the Craftsman and the Plumb script. Clarence, we broke the seal on the little brown jug. Man, I gotta get me one of them brewin kits! That was some gooood Beer! As good as any Micro-Brewery I've frequented. Thanks, Joe.


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## svk

Awesome that we are already up to 23 pages on here!


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## svk

Finally had weather warm enough to sit outside after dark and make some dust.

Started off with these two house axes that have been in the family for years. The white/red handled one has some damage to the butt of the handle and the head had some rust as it used to ride around in my dad's Argo up to the point he passed. I didn't get every last spec of rust out of the pits but after a bath of BLO the rust will more or less be neutralized anyhow. 




The only marking on the plain handled axe



Plain handled axe ready for BLO



White handled axe ready for BLO



First coat soaking. Some white paint is still sucked into the grain on the left handle but these are working tools so I'm not too concerned. 



I'll put the heads in a plastic bin with BLO after I get the next two axes done so they can pull oil up into the heads.


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## svk

Up next. My youngest son says he wants to help strip these.


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## svk

My 10 YO started on the Hudson Bay and I took the Husky. He got about half of the HB stripped before his hands got tired. I asked if he wanted me to finish it and he said no, he'd do it tomorrow. 

I used my pocketknife (a gift from Zogger) as a spokeshave to strip the thick varnish from the Husky. Gave it a good sanding with 60 grit then 100 grit and a bath of BLO. No torch here otherwise I'd have considered giving the handle the "Buckin Billy Ray" treatment. Really need to get some "Wadca" (Watco) like he uses.


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## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> I hit the two projects with a brass wheel on the Dremel, they came out quite shiny. I'm going to check with a friend that's done some engraving to see what I should use to chase the oval lines and script on the Craftsman and the Plumb script. Clarence, we broke the seal on the little brown jug. Man, I gotta get me one of them brewin kits! That was some gooood Beer! As good as any Micro-Brewery I've frequented. Thanks, Joe.



Glad you enjoyed the beer! It's a fun hobby that I enjoy. It can be as easy or complicated as you like it, my equipment is fairly extensive, but my brewing rig is rather simple and manual. Homewbrewing is about 15% brewing, 15% fermentation, and 70% washing gear, cleaning and sanitizing. For me, less parts to clean is best, hence why I have a simple gravity fed system. If you hate doing dishes, then you're not going to like homebrewing.


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## Multifaceted

@svk - those pieces look great, nice job, and that's cool you can get your boy interested and involved.


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## svk

Here's the progress after one dried coat of BLO on the Husky and two on the house axes. 




Next coat applied on all three



This is the formerly white handle axe. Pretty ugly but not like a house axe needs an exceptionally strong handle. 



The Trojan is near perfect


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## svk

An hour later they were completely dry to the touch so I gave them another coat and put them in the sun.


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## svk

The dollar store has rectangular sharpening stones so I'm going to pick one up the next time I'm on that side of town.


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## rarefish383

Had to go to Ace to get 4 new 10 year smoke/co detectors. As of 2018, in MD, if you have a wood stove and don't have the new 10 year detectors your insurance won't cover a fire, or at least ours won't. While I was there I picked up a hickory handle for the Craftsman Boys ax. Grains not that hot, but I was impatient, and it was straight. They had several Collins Boys Axes in the rack and they all had nice looking handles. I'm still trying to figure out how I can chase the logo on the Craftsman. I'm sure it's just roll engraved, and it's definitely deeper at the top than the bottom. It looked like the lines in the logo were painted white. After I brown it I'd like to fill those lines with white again. I might start prepping the head for the browning solution after the football games. I'll get a pic of the shiny steel after the Evapo-Rust bath before I start the browning, Joe.


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## rarefish383

Crimey, I can't go 5 feet without an old ax falling on me. A friend came over to look at a Black Walnut slab for a possible gun stock. On top of the slab was this little Plumb. It's 2 pounds 1.4 ounces on the postal scale. I don't know if it's salvageable. I might put it in the derusting stuff just to see what happens. 





Here's the Craftsman after the bath and a quick brushing, Joe.


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## svk

It will have some pitting but of course it's salvageable!!!


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## svk

How many coats of BLO do you guys normally use? The last axe I did was happy with 3 and these are drying almost instantly with 5 coats so far. 

The sun has almost completely dried the oil on the heads. They feel like a well seasoned cast iron pan.


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## rarefish383

svk said:


> It will have some pitting but of course it's salvageable!!!


Then in the bath it goes, Joe.


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## LondonNeil

If it was drying that fast you may have been better with raw LO. It still polimerises but slower, so it can soak in deeper.


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## LondonNeil

I stuck a straight edge down the eye of the scandDancanavian head to see how big the bulge is, it was 3/8" away from the eye by the top at the back. There is a similar but smaller bulge inside the front of the eye too. It's going to need that eye reshaping, hopefully it'll file easily.


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## svk

It was partly cloudy/drizzly today so I ended up putting them in the broom closet on top of carboard. It's sucking in much slower now so I'd say we are getting close. Still need to finish up the Hudson Bay axe that my son partially completed.


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## svk

I had rubbed down those axes around lunch yesterday and left them in the closet. As of a short time ago they were still just a slight bit greasy, telling me that they are pretty much done pulling in the oil. I put them out in the sun to dry this afternoon.


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## LondonNeil

What's the Saying, something like
' once a day for a week,
once a week for a month,
Once a month for a year'


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## svk

Going to put my 55 Husky together this evening and finish up that last axe.


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## lead farmer

svk said:


> Going to put my 55 Husky together this evening and finish up that last axe.


Is there such a thing as the last Axe ? [emoji38]

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## svk

lead farmer said:


> Is there such a thing as the last Axe ? [emoji38]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


I only have four here at the rental house lol.


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## svk

Here's the first three finally done. I think the two refurbs turned out pretty well especially considering the middle handle started off with two colors of paint.



Hudson Bay after sanding. My little guy did 95 percent of the sanding, I just needed to clean up around the ends.



First coat


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## H-Ranch

svk said:


> Hudson Bay after sanding. My little guy did 95 percent of the sanding,
> View attachment 627540


That looks great. Your young man did a very nice job.


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## svk

Looking real nice after 4 coats


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## svk

H-Ranch said:


> That looks great. Your young man did a very nice job.


Thank you. Ill definitely think of him every time I use it. 

I hope that the extensive wedging and leaving the handle proud above the head keeps it locked on tight as it slipped the last handle.


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## rarefish383

svk said:


> It will have some pitting but of course it's salvageable!!!


OK Steve, you may not have meant it, but you threw the gauntlet down on me. You said that super rusty little Plumb was salvageable. Then you had to throw that qualifier in there. You said, "BUT", it will be pitted. It can't be both ways. It either "IS" or it "ISN"T". It can't be right and be pitted too. So, if you look at that jagged rusty edge in the pic, it is no more. It's nice and smooth, contoured nice, and it's quite sharp. I've got a birthday party at 6 this evening. I'm gonna put a couple more hours of flat file on it. I might get some half way pics. Or, the next time you see it, it may be a half pound lighter, but it won't have any pits, Joe.


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## Lowhog

svk said:


> Here's the first three finally done. I think the two refurbs turned out pretty well especially considering the middle handle started off with two colors of paint.
> View attachment 627539
> 
> 
> Hudson Bay after sanding. My little guy did 95 percent of the sanding, I just needed to clean up around the ends.
> View attachment 627540
> 
> 
> First coat
> View attachment 627541


Hudson Bay Maker?


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## Trx250r180

rarefish383 said:


> OK Steve, you may not have meant it, but you threw the gauntlet down on me. You said that super rusty little Plumb was salvageable. Then you had to throw that qualifier in there. You said, "BUT", it will be pitted. It can't be both ways. It either "IS" or it "ISN"T". It can't be right and be pitted too. So, if you look at that jagged rusty edge in the pic, it is no more. It's nice and smooth, contoured nice, and it's quite sharp. I've got a birthday party at 6 this evening. I'm gonna put a couple more hours of flat file on it. I might get some half way pics. Or, the next time you see it, it may be a half pound lighter, but it won't have any pits, Joe.


I like the rust pits in an axe head ,i would just clean the scale and leave the patina .This one was super pitted .


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## svk

Lowhog said:


> Hudson Bay Maker?


No stamping. I'm not sure if it was originally a HB pattern, the lower edge is rough like it was cut by band saw so maybe it was originally a standard axe that was cut down.


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## svk

Trx250r180 said:


> I like the rust pits in an axe head ,i would just clean the scale and leave the patina .This one was super pitted .


That is a great look!


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## rarefish383

svk said:


> That is a great look!


Looks like some thing to take Wild Boar hunting.


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## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> I like the rust pits in an axe head ,i would just clean the scale and leave the patina .This one was super pitted .



Is that your very own Buckin' Special from Billy?


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## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> Is that your very own Buckin' Special from Billy?


No i copy pasted the image off his website,i do want one of his axes,not sure which one yet ,i am thinking a double bit of some kind though.


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## svk

Trx250r180 said:


> No i copy pasted the image off his website,i do want one of his axes,not sure which one yet ,i am thinking a double bit of some kind though.


How much does he get for an axe these days?


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## Trx250r180

svk said:


> How much does he get for an axe these days?


I am not sure ,i think 150 on up though because of the hours he puts into them.


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## Preacher Mike

svk said:


> Here's the first three finally done. I think the two refurbs turned out pretty well especially considering the middle handle started off with two colors of paint.
> View attachment 627539
> 
> 
> Hudson Bay after sanding. My little guy did 95 percent of the sanding, I just needed to clean up around the ends.
> View attachment 627540
> 
> 
> First coat
> View attachment 627541


Beautiful work!!


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## svk

Trx250r180 said:


> I am not sure ,i think 150 on up though because of the hours he puts into them.


That's not bad at all.


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## rarefish383

When did the practice of leaving a piece of handle stick above the eye come about. I had never seen a factory ax like that, and all of the old literature on hanging handles show cutting the handle flush with the eye. I can see where it might help get a tighter fit. But all of my old axes are flush. If this posts, it was my favorite tutorial, Joe.
https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/htmlpubs/htm99232823/page03.htm


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## svk

I first saw Billy Ray do it but have seen it elsewhere as well since I started paying attention to axes.


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## rarefish383

Thanks Steve, that's kind of where I first saw it, like it's a youtube invention.


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## svk

Clarence knew about it before joining the site, hopefully he'll be along soon to comment.


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## rarefish383

Up date on the super rusty Plumb. I don't remember where this little ax came from. I may have found it metal detecting. I don't remember Dad ever having small axes around. Anyway, it's a shame this thing got left out for years, the poll is almost perfectly square, hardly a ding on it. I certainly did not intend to polish this thing, but it looks like that's where we are headed. It may wind up shiny, but I plan on browning this one too. I also just ordered a bunch of engraving tools and I'm going to try and high light the logo. After I brown it, I'm going to fill the logo in with white, and see how it stands out. Before and now, with a long way to go, Joe.


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## Lowhog

I have 3 wettelings that are proud above the eye from the factory. And I mean a bunch.


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## svk

rarefish383 said:


> Up date on the super rusty Plumb. I don't remember where this little ax came from. I may have found it metal detecting. I don't remember Dad ever having small axes around. Anyway, it's a shame this thing got left out for years, the poll is almost perfectly square, hardly a ding on it. I certainly did not intend to polish this thing, but it looks like that's where we are headed. It may wind up shiny, but I plan on browning this one too. I also just ordered a bunch of engraving tools and I'm going to try and high light the logo. After I brown it, I'm going to fill the logo in with white, and see how it stands out. Before and now, with a long way to go, Joe.




Youvve done zome eggggsalent verk there Doctor!!!


----------



## rarefish383

I'm getting a new compressor this week end and I'm running hard lines to my basement and patio behind the garage, so I can run air tools inside where it's warm, dry, and somewhat quiet. Right now all I'm using is the Dremel and a flat file. I've got a bench grinder in the basement, but I'm afraid of taking too much off with it, Joe.


----------



## dancan

rarefish383 said:


> When did the practice of leaving a piece of handle stick above the eye come about. I had never seen a factory ax like that, and all of the old literature on hanging handles show cutting the handle flush with the eye. I can see where it might help get a tighter fit. But all of my old axes are flush. If this posts, it was my favorite tutorial, Joe.
> https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/htmlpubs/htm99232823/page03.htm



I've seen it on the Scandi axes for a while now ,and have been doing it for several years , personally I prefer it , the wedge , if done right will flare the wood more than the eye and it will soak linseed oil better than a compressed grain .
I only set around an 1/8" or hair prouder then bevel the very edge of that for neatness .
It's my personal preference but just like I don't like a shiny axe or the burn't handle look it doesn't mean one or the other is better or worse .
Set it , stain it , burn it , shine it , darken it , scandi edge it , banana cheek it , straight , curved , octagon it ,,, It's yours , do it the way you want , just do it right .


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## rarefish383

Daily update. Didn't know this would be so much fun. I've thrown away axes in better shape thinking they were beyon hope. Never again, Joe.


----------



## svk

Wow even the stamp survived. Nice!


----------



## LondonNeil

wow. is that just vinegar?


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## svk

I think he had a wire wheel?


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## rarefish383

Neil, I never used vinegar. To derust it I used Evapo-Rust, and it worked well. Then I used a Dremel tool with a heavy sanding disc and it was working, but slow. Today I got a couple belts for my 3 inch belt sander and it's working much better. I put about 3 hours in it today. If I put a couple hours a day in it I might finish this weekend. When I get all the pits out I'll switch from 60 grit to 220 and I think it will be like a mirror. Then I'm going to "Brown" it and fill the logo with white. I ground a little over an ounce of steel off it today, Joe


----------



## rarefish383

svk said:


> Wow even the stamp survived. Nice!


Steve, I'm getting a set of engraving "Line Gravers" to chase the lines and letters. Just to make them a little deeper. On this pattern it will be easy. On the "Genuine Plumb" pattern it will take more skill than I have.


----------



## Trx250r180

I was watching a guy grinding on a rusty chunk of angle iron when i was young ,i said why don't you use the new piece ,his reply was "There is beautiful metal hiding under that rust son "


----------



## Multifaceted

Wholly cow, I have not been getting my alerts on this thread, missed over a dozen posts! Everything looks good, fellas, great work, and good to see the enthusiasm in these old tools. Makes me feel like less of a junkie, ha ha.

As to cutting the wood proud of the steel, I agree with @dancan — I've noticed it in the Scandinavian makers for a while now, and if you look, all of the quality axe makers are doing the very same thing. If done right, the proud wood will fan out thus adding more pressure on the only point the steel can leave the haft. I think the old timers would cut it flush to keep the wood from getting chipped off from use, which can still happen... Chamfering the wood edges around the eye helps some.


----------



## svk

Arrived at the cabin tonight. Need to pick a few splitting tools to bring home so I can refurb the handles. Maybe start with the axe of my great grandparents that I rehung last summer. Strip the clear varnish and maybe do a darker Watco or something.


----------



## rarefish383

While I was reading the USDA article on hanging an ax, I found a page that showed a lot of the ax patterns, and then a page of makers marks. I'm guessing there were at least 50 makers marks on that page. Now I can't find it. Has anyone ever seen that? While I was in the shed yesterday, I found my favorite maul from the late 60's, early 70's, and on the bottom I saw 3 makers marks and I recognized one from that page. That maul with original handle was around 40 years old. It had chunks nicked out of it from splinters and was getting soft at the eye. If it got stuck you could see the handle would probably break if you pushed on it. So, I kept an Oak limb handy to tap it out. My nephew came over and wanted to help split wood, he was driving so he wasn't a little kid. He grabbed my maul and I yelled at him to get his hands off that ax, it was almost as old as me. He laughed and said he knew how to split with a maul. He swung one time, over shot the block by a foot, and snapped the head off. I don't know how, but, he managed to survive. I also found a handle I got for it years ago leaning on another shed, all the finish gone and grey as a bone. I might hang it today between grinding on the Plumb, Joe.


----------



## svk

rarefish383 said:


> While I was reading the USDA article on hanging an ax, I found a page that showed a lot of the ax patterns, and then a page of makers marks. I'm guessing there were at least 50 makers marks on that page. Now I can't find it. Has anyone ever seen that? While I was in the shed yesterday, I found my favorite maul from the late 60's, early 70's, and on the bottom I saw 3 makers marks and I recognized one from that page. That maul with original handle was around 40 years old. It had chunks nicked out of it from splinters and was getting soft at the eye. If it got stuck you could see the handle would probably break if you pushed on it. So, I kept an Oak limb handy to tap it out. My nephew came over and wanted to help split wood, he was driving so he wasn't a little kid. He grabbed my maul and I yelled at him to get his hands off that ax, it was almost as old as me. He laughed and said he knew how to split with a maul. He swung one time, over shot the block by a foot, and snapped the head off. I don't know how, but, he managed to survive. I also found a handle I got for it years ago leaning on another shed, all the finish gone and grey as a bone. I might hang it today between grinding on the Plumb, Joe.


I saw something similar somewhere...for the life of me cannot remember where.


----------



## rarefish383

Daily update. I'd say I've got 10-12 hours and about $40 dollars in sanding belts and discs. I've ground about 4 ounces off. This was the worse side rust wise. But, the other side has the Plumb logo, so it will be the hardest. Then I'll have to try and match the thickness too, Joe.


----------



## Lowhog

www.yesteryearstools.com


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> Daily update. I'd say I've got 10-12 hours and about $40 dollars in sanding belts and discs. I've ground about 4 ounces off. This was the worse side rust wise. But, the other side has the Plumb logo, so it will be the hardest. Then I'll have to try and match the thickness too, Joe.




Joe, that looks incredible - just look at those cheek bevels! 

I mean, wow, that cleaned up very well. The bit profile radius looks good, you shouldn't need to do much work there, but when you go to sharpen it you'll want to take more material off of the center where the cheek swells out. I'll go into more detail here in a minute, going to make an informative post on an early restoration axe I did that just wasn't "cutting" it. Worked on it and your Plumb cruiser this afternoon...


----------



## Multifaceted

OK, this is something that I've been meaning to do for a while now - a tutorial on how to re-profile an axe that has either been damaged or improperly ground. In this case, it is an improper grind from an old axe. This old Shapleigh Hardware Diamond Edge was one of my earlier restorations, and while I like the axe, I do not like using it. Its handle is way too thick, and needed to be thinned out and sculpted to my grip, and the bit profile was improperly ground. You see this a lot on older axes that were used extensively. What happens, particularly with American axes which have swelled cheeks, is that re-sharpening over time causes a semi-circular shape in the grind. It will cut, but is more likely to get stuck, and if it is very extreme, only subjects a portion of the cutting edge to the work, as opposed to the full cutting edge. Not very effective for throwing chips and removing wood with strikes. Axe work is tasking, so making sure the tool works as efficiently as possible is paramount. Keeping it in serviceable condition facilitates this.

Here is the hemispherical grind on my old Shapleigh Hardware 4.5 lb felling axe:





Here it as after I corrected it:





In order to correct the radius, you'll have to remove a substantial amount of material, essentially destroying the edge. As a rule of thumb, the radius should not exceed 1/4"-3/8" (6.35-9.52 mm) in difference from heel-to-toe to the apex of the arc. Doing so will remove a lot of material, and you'll notice the varying thickess in the bit from the heel/toe and the center where the cheeks swell:





The idea is to evenly thin out the bit taking more material away from the center cheeks, keeping the corrected and desired bit profile radius intact. Here is another view afer a few passes with the bastard file:





To achieve this you need to file in a fashion where you remove more material from the center cheeks, cutting towards the back of the cheeks but feathering it outward to the heel and toe of the bit. This typically results in a "half-moon" or "banana" shape from the filing cuts (Again, speaking in terms of American pattern axes). The cheeks have more material removed to evenly thin out the bit which is feathered out to the heel and toe and creates this shape. You can see this here as I'm just starting to work on the grind:





To do this, here is how I approach it. First start in the center of the bit, where you want to remove more of the material (remember, the heel and toe are thinner, so if you file on them first or more often, it will create that hemispherical shape to the bit) -start near the center and work your angle until it is established, then spread it out to the heel and toe like so:





Next, start to file below the angle you just did starting near the center of the bit again and feather it out to the heel and toe. This creates a secondary bevel, thus smoothing out the the 'corner' of the angle you just filed. It's hard to tell, but you can sort of see it here:





From there you'll again file below the second bevel you just did, and in the same principal will round out the edge geometry rather than having it angular. Here it is after smoothing out a third bevel and pass with the file:





After this, or even a fourth pass, you can start to feather out the the grind starting in the center and going out towards the heel and toe of the bit, doing so will create the "half-moon" or "banana" shape as seen here:





After several passes, and believe me, this can take a while, you'll evenly close the thickness of the bit to where both sides will converge without any overlap (notice how thin and even the edge is). This is near that point, but I have stopped here for re-profiling and will clean up the file marks. From this point on the profile is now set and it is ready to sharpen:





Here it is with the file marks cleaned up and smoothed way with a pneumatic die grinder:





Here is the edge geometry, as you can see there is no singular, secondary, or tertiary bevel, it is a continuous smooth curved shape which converges to the cutting edge. Ideally, the edge geometry should resemble a bullet shape rather than a 'V' shape.





Before and after:





Hope this helps some, this principal doesn't just apply to American axes per se, only the grinding heavily on the cheeks for American patterns. The same practices can be used for other axes that were not ground properly and need to be corrected. The key is to evenly remove material for a consistent grind without too much curvature on the bit. For Scandinavian axes, the primary>secondary>tertiary bevels can be discarded; although some Swedish manufacturers use a "rolled" cutting geometry. Your milage may vary, but remember, your sharpening job is only as good as the grind, so pay it some mind as well!

Cheers!


----------



## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> OK, this is something that I've been meaning to do for a while now - a tutorial on how to re-profile an axe that has either been damaged or improperly ground. In this case, it is an improper grind from an old axe. This old Shapleigh Hardware Diamond Edge was one of my earlier restorations, and while I like the axe, I do not like using it. Its handle is way too thick, and needed to be thinned out and sculpted to my grip, and the bit profile was improperly ground. You see this a lot on older axes that were used extensively. What happens, particularly with American axes which have swelled cheeks, is that re-sharpening over time causes a semi-circular shape in the grind. It will cut, but is more likely to get stuck, and if it is very extreme, only subjects a portion of the cutting edge to the work, as opposed to the full cutting edge. Not very effective for throwing chips and removing wood with strikes. Axe work is tasking, so making sure the tool works as efficiently as possible to paramount. Keeping it in serviceable condition facilitates this.
> 
> Here is the hemispherical grind on my old Shapleigh Hardware 4.5 lb felling axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it as after I corrected it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order to correct the radius, you'll have to remove a substantial amount of material, essentially destroying the edge. As a rule of thumb, the radius should not exceed 1/4"-3/8" (6.35-9.52 cm) in difference from heel-to-toe to the apex of the arc. Doing so will remove a lot of material, and you'll notice the varying thickess in the bit from the heel/toe and the center where the cheeks swell:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea is to evenly thin out the bit taking more material away from the center cheeks, keeping the corrected and desired bit profile radius intact. Here is another view afer a few passes with the bastard file:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To achieve this you need to file in a fashion where you remove more material from the center cheeks, cutting towards the back of the cheeks but feathering it outward to the heel and toe of the bit. This typically results in a "half-moon" or "banana" shape from the filing cuts (Again, speaking in terms of American pattern axes). The cheeks have more material removed to evenly thin out the bit which is feathered out to the heel and toe and creates this shape. You can see this here as I'm just starting to work on the grind:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do this, here is how I approach it. First start in the center of the bit, where you want to remove more of the material (remember, the heel and toe are thinner, so if you file on them first or more often, it will create that hemispherical shape to the bit) -start near the center and work your angle until it is established, then spread it out to the heel and toe like so:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, start to file below the angle you just did starting near the center of the bit again and feather it out to the heel and toe. This creates a secondary bevel, thus smoothing out the the 'corner' of the angle you just filed. It's hard to tell, but you can sort of see it here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From there you'll again file below the second bevel you just did, and in the same principal will round out cutting geometry rather than having it angular. Here it is after smoothing out a third bevel and pass with the file:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After this, or even a fourth pass, you can start to feather out the the grind starting in the center and going out towards the heel and toe of the bit, doing so will create the "half-moon" or "banana" shape as seen here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After several passes, and believe me, this can take a while, you'll evenly close the thickness of the bit to where both sides will converge without any overlap (notice how thin and even the edge is). This is near that point, but I have stopped here for re-profiling and will clean up the file marks. From this point on the profile is now set and it is ready to sharpen:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is with the file marks cleaned up and smoothed way with a pneumatic die grinder:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the edge geometry, as you can see there is no singular, secondary, or tertiary bevel, it is a continuous smooth curved shape which converges to the cutting edge. Ideally, the edge geometry should resemble a bullet shape rather than a 'V' shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps some, this principal doesn't just apply to American axes per se, only the grinding heavily on the cheeks for American patterns. The same practices can be used for other axes that were not ground properly and need to be corrected. The key is to evenly remove material for a consistent grind without too much curvature on the bit. For Scandinavian axes, the primary>secondary>tertiary bevels can be discarded; although some Swedish manufacturers use a "rolled" cutting geometry. Your milage may vary, but remember, you sharpening job is only as good as your grind, so pay it some mind as well!
> 
> Cheers!


Wow ! Good read man.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## SeMoTony

Multifaceted said:


> If you're wondering about the materials, for the above Hults Bruk finish, I needed a gallon of hydrogen peroxied (0.89 USD per 32oz bottle x 4 = 3.56 USD), and standard 26 oz canister of salt (1.25 USD), and then 1-2 gallons of distilled water (0.89 USD per gallon x 2 = 1.78 USD). So it costs me about 6-7 USD to do this effectively, not including sales tax or propane. I'm sure someone could get buy with just what they have around the house, but it's such a small cost for me so I don't mind paying for enough materials to get right the first time.


@ Multifaceted  . Now for a couple of tanks that wood contain six foot wip saws. I do have a couple broad axe heads and a couple hatchet heads of the same design. Must be close to Spring with these motivation juices flowing.
Stay safe and warm Folks


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> OK, this is something that I've been meaning to do for a while now - a tutorial on how to re-profile an axe that has either been damaged or improperly ground. In this case, it is an improper grind from an old axe. This old Shapleigh Hardware Diamond Edge was one of my earlier restorations, and while I like the axe, I do not like using it. Its handle is way too thick, and needed to be thinned out and sculpted to my grip, and the bit profile was improperly ground. You see this a lot on older axes that were used extensively. What happens, particularly with American axes which have swelled cheeks, is that re-sharpening over time causes a semi-circular shape in the grind. It will cut, but is more likely to get stuck, and if it is very extreme, only subjects a portion of the cutting edge to the work, as opposed to the full cutting edge. Not very effective for throwing chips and removing wood with strikes. Axe work is tasking, so making sure the tool works as efficiently as possible is paramount. Keeping it in serviceable condition facilitates this.
> 
> Here is the hemispherical grind on my old Shapleigh Hardware 4.5 lb felling axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it as after I corrected it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order to correct the radius, you'll have to remove a substantial amount of material, essentially destroying the edge. As a rule of thumb, the radius should not exceed 1/4"-3/8" (6.35-9.52 cm) in difference from heel-to-toe to the apex of the arc. Doing so will remove a lot of material, and you'll notice the varying thickess in the bit from the heel/toe and the center where the cheeks swell:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea is to evenly thin out the bit taking more material away from the center cheeks, keeping the corrected and desired bit profile radius intact. Here is another view afer a few passes with the bastard file:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To achieve this you need to file in a fashion where you remove more material from the center cheeks, cutting towards the back of the cheeks but feathering it outward to the heel and toe of the bit. This typically results in a "half-moon" or "banana" shape from the filing cuts (Again, speaking in terms of American pattern axes). The cheeks have more material removed to evenly thin out the bit which is feathered out to the heel and toe and creates this shape. You can see this here as I'm just starting to work on the grind:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do this, here is how I approach it. First start in the center of the bit, where you want to remove more of the material (remember, the heel and toe are thinner, so if you file on them first or more often, it will create that hemispherical shape to the bit) -start near the center and work your angle until it is established, then spread it out to the heel and toe like so:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, start to file below the angle you just did starting near the center of the bit again and feather it out to the heel and toe. This creates a secondary bevel, thus smoothing out the the 'corner' of the angle you just filed. It's hard to tell, but you can sort of see it here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From there you'll again file below the second bevel you just did, and in the same principal will round out the edge geometry rather than having it angular. Here it is after smoothing out a third bevel and pass with the file:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After this, or even a fourth pass, you can start to feather out the the grind starting in the center and going out towards the heel and toe of the bit, doing so will create the "half-moon" or "banana" shape as seen here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After several passes, and believe me, this can take a while, you'll evenly close the thickness of the bit to where both sides will converge without any overlap (notice how thin and even the edge is). This is near that point, but I have stopped here for re-profiling and will clean up the file marks. From this point on the profile is now set and it is ready to sharpen:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is with the file marks cleaned up and smoothed way with a pneumatic die grinder:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the edge geometry, as you can see there is no singular, secondary, or tertiary bevel, it is a continuous smooth curved shape which converges to the cutting edge. Ideally, the edge geometry should resemble a bullet shape rather than a 'V' shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps some, this principal doesn't just apply to American axes per se, only the grinding heavily on the cheeks for American patterns. The same practices can be used for other axes that were not ground properly and need to be corrected. The key is to evenly remove material for a consistent grind without too much curvature on the bit. For Scandinavian axes, the primary>secondary>tertiary bevels can be discarded; although some Swedish manufacturers use a "rolled" cutting geometry. Your milage may vary, but remember, you sharpening job is only as good as your grind, so pay it some mind as well!
> 
> Cheers!


Wow. That's an incredible write up. You honestly maybe should start a new thread for this!


----------



## p61 western

svk said:


> Wow. That's an incredible write up. You honestly maybe should start a new thread for this!


Yes I agree and would like to see more of that type of stuff.


----------



## Multifaceted

SeMoTony said:


> @ Multifaceted  . Now for a couple of tanks that wood contain six foot wip saws. I do have a couple broad axe heads and a couple hatchet heads of the same design. Must be close to Spring with these motivation juices flowing.
> Stay safe and warm Folks



These old tools need some love, lest they be forgotten and the heritage with them.



svk said:


> Wow. That's an incredible write up. You honestly maybe should start a new thread for this!





p61 western said:


> Yes I agree and would like to see more of that type of stuff.



Well, I thought about at first, but figured that this thread would be the best place for it to be viewed, however; if more budding axe junkies are interested I'll consider making a dedicated thread to restoration and maintenance techniques. I suppose that my intentions were that I didn't want to detract attention way from this thread, it's pretty active already and I think that's really cool! Don't want to mess with the organic success...


----------



## p61 western

Multifaceted said:


> These old tools need some love, lest they be forgotten and the heritage with them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I thought about at first, but figured that this thread would be the best place for it to be viewed, however; if more budding axe junkies are interested I'll consider making a dedicated thread to restoration and maintenance techniques. I suppose that my intentions were that I didn't want to detract attention way from this thread, it's pretty active already and I think that's really cool! Don't want to mess with the organic success...


If you do start another thread can you let us know here so we can find it? Here or another thread don't matter none to me btw. Thanks for sharing the info.


----------



## rarefish383

Clarence, I may have screwed up on the Plumb. After I saw how shiny it was getting my goal was to get all the pits out. I was watching the top of the eye to make sure I didn't get it too thin. Sitting here with my first cup of coffee, I was turning it in my hand, and saw I've got the bottom of the eye so thin, I think I'd be afraid to strike anything with it. So, it might just be an experiment in polishing and browning, and a pretty wall hanger. I'll show it to you when you get a chance to pick up the little brown jug, Joe.


----------



## GVS

rarefish383 said:


> Daily update. I'd say I've got 10-12 hours and about $40 dollars in sanding belts and discs. I've ground about 4 ounces off. This was the worse side rust wise. But, the other side has the Plumb logo, so it will be the hardest. Then I'll have to try and match the thickness too, Joe.
> Ain't you leaving any of the patina on that axe head?


----------



## rarefish383

GVS, don't know why it didn't quote your question? But, no, no patina on this one. If you saw the before pic it looks like a total loss. When I started sanding it and got to the bright shiny steel I decided to polish this one to a mirror finish and then "Brown" it. Now that I see how thin I got the bottom of the eye on one side I probably won't go much further. So, there will be some pitting left. I also collect pre WWII Savage 99's. When we refer to "patina" it's the natural brownish, grayish color the steel turns as it ages, not 1/32 inch deep rust pits. This has just turned into a lesson in polishing steel. I wish I would have found this one before it got lost in time. There wasn't a dent on the poll and it looked like it may never have been sharpened. It would have been a spectacular little ax. Here's the before pic again, this is the good side with the Plumb logo, the other side was rusted way more, Joe.


----------



## dancan

Yes , he rambles a bit but like he says , get an old head , 5 to 10 bucks and handle it yourself or get a cheap axe , don't get caught in the gear race .
Having said that , the big Arvika is next on my list lol


----------



## Multifaceted

dancan said:


> Yes , he rambles a bit but like he says , get an old head , 5 to 10 bucks and handle it yourself or get a cheap axe , don't get caught in the gear race .
> Having said that , the big Arvika is next on my list lol




Yes, I have watched this video.

I can get behind the message, but I don't have a problem with spending some coin on an axe I like, just like any other tool I covet. To me, what is most important is that whichever axe you get be it old or new - just use it! My restored axe collection far outweighed the four new axe purchases... Among them are the big ol Arvika!

I still need to get a proper grind on that thing, spending too much time on old axes.


----------



## dancan

Speaking of old axes , here's a vid of a real resto , old school .


----------



## GVS

rarefish383 said:


> GVS, don't know why it didn't quote your question? But, no, no patina on this one. If you saw the before pic it looks like a total loss. When I started sanding it and got to the bright shiny steel I decided to polish this one to a mirror finish and then "Brown" it. Now that I see how thin I got the bottom of the eye on one side I probably won't go much further. So, there will be some pitting left. I also collect pre WWII Savage 99's. When we refer to "patina" it's the natural brownish, grayish color the steel turns as it ages, not 1/32 inch deep rust pits. This has just turned into a lesson in polishing steel. I wish I would have found this one before it got lost in time. There wasn't a dent on the poll and it looked like it may never have been sharpened. It would have been a spectacular little ax. Here's the before pic again, this is the good side with the Plumb logo, the other side was rusted way more, Joe.
> On the axe-JUST KIDDING!On the 99's- great gun!


----------



## lead farmer

dancan said:


> Speaking of old axes , here's a vid of a real resto , old school .


That is awsome right there .

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## rarefish383

A few days back I asked the question about leaving the wood proud to the steel on an ax, or any striking tool for that matter. I think I found the first one. The London Hammer. Found in London, Texas back in the 30's. Archaeologist say it can be between 100 and 400 million years ole, Joe
https://www.theepochtimes.com/out-o...hammer-made-140-million-years-ago_599937.html


----------



## svk

Got this boys axe for a dollar from a pawn shop today. There's a crack on the right side of the axe that was repaired with pins. Figured I'd give it the vinegar treatment and see if I can determine how deep the crack goes. 

If I had to guess I'd say it's seen significant use after the pin repairs. 

Maybe I'll rehang it or maybe it will just be a paperweight.


----------



## dancan

Here's a pretty good channel


----------



## GVS

dancan said:


> Here's a pretty good channel



I have several axes and hatchets.Some of the hatchets have a notch on the under side of the head for pulling nails,sometimes handy depending on what you're doing.Question is :what is the purpose of the larger notch just forward of the axe eye?None of my single bit axes or hatchets have this notch.


----------



## svk

GVS said:


> I have several axes and hatchets.Some of the hatchets have a notch on the under side of the head for pulling nails,sometimes handy depending on what you're doing.Question is :what is the purpose of the larger notch just forward of the axe eye?None of my single bit axes or hatchets have this notch.


I just assumed that was the profile they were looking for, a tapered edge to save weight but a deeper/longer collar to hold the handle better? Perhaps someone more knowledgeable like multifaceted might have a better answer?


----------



## rarefish383

Look at the pic on page 23 #444, is that the big notch you mean? I think it's just the profile. If it tapered back to the eye it would be hard to get your hand and fingers in there, so fitting a handle might be hard? Joe.


----------



## Multifaceted

GVS said:


> I have several axes and hatchets.Some of the hatchets have a notch on the under side of the head for pulling nails,sometimes handy depending on what you're doing.Question is :what is the purpose of the larger notch just forward of the axe eye?None of my single bit axes or hatchets have this notch.





svk said:


> I just assumed that was the profile they were looking for, a tapered edge to save weight but a deeper/longer collar to hold the handle better? Perhaps someone more knowledgeable like multifaceted might have a better answer?





rarefish383 said:


> Look at the pic on page 23 #444, is that the big notch you mean? I think it's just the profile. If it tapered back to the eye it would be hard to get your hand and fingers in there, so fitting a handle might be hard? Joe.



I'm not sure if I have the correct answer, but it'll take a stab...

If I'm understanding the question correctly, and what is being described is akin to the picture Joe mentioned on page 23#444, then that is what's known as a 'beard'. This allows for a smaller head to have a wider cutting face as well as providing the user to choke up the handle for carving chores, more presice or detailed work. You see it in a lot of smaller Scandinavian axes. Some of it is probably traditional design that eventually became skeuomorphic, as in for looks only. Much like wood paneling on cars that provide no purpose, or hollow Romanesque columns on houses that bear no load.


----------



## rarefish383

Being able to choke up sounds like a legitimate explanation, Joe.


----------



## dancan

If it's a notch like Joe's pic






It's a nail puller on a shingling hatchet .
This pic is an example of a bearded ax .


----------



## Multifaceted

Good visuals, @dancan !


----------



## dancan

Thanks .
Here's another good resource site .
http://hultsbruk1697.se/vintage-axes-hatchets/old-hults-bruk-axe-catalogs/


----------



## svk

Got the old handle off and into the vinegar.


----------



## svk

Again this thing is pretty rough. Although like I said earlier it looks like it saw a lot of use after the pin repair.


----------



## kevin j

we are such a throwaway society. I would love to know the history of that repair. How they did the drilling and why they did it. Could they not afford a few dollars for a new axe or was it off in the wilderness somewhere where their life depended on that tool. it would be fascinating history so it’s cool that you’re able to display it


----------



## rarefish383

I know people, especially a couple farmer friends, that would spend as much to fix it, as a new one would cost, just because it was fixable. They are obviously of an older generation, that would never throw away anything that could be re purposed. I guess I'm a left over of that generation, that's why I keep finding old axes all around my sheds, Joe.


----------



## rarefish383

dancan said:


> If it's a notch like Joe's pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a nail puller on a shingling hatchet .
> This pic is an example of a bearded ax .


Dan, I don't think he meant the nail puller notch, but the bigger notch between the nail puller and the eye. I really like that little bearded beauty, Joe.


----------



## Lowhog

kevin j said:


> we are such a throwaway society. I would love to know the history of that repair. How they did the drilling and why they did it. Could they not afford a few dollars for a new axe or was it off in the wilderness somewhere wh


 During the Great depression nothing got thrown out. People found a purpose for every box a item came in.


----------



## svk

Well not a lot of movement in the vinegar overnight. It's a bit cooler on the counter as there's no heat register in the kitchen and I keep the heat down at 66. Wasn't sure if that mattered to the vinegar bath or not.




The light line running along the head is just a reflection.


----------



## GVS

rarefish383 said:


> Being able to choke up sounds like a legitimate explanation, Joe.



The ability to choke up a bit more would be an advantage for some work.I can buy that.Thanks.


rarefish3 83 said:


> Dan, I don't think he meant the nail puller notch, but the bigger notch between the nail puller and the eye. I really like that little bearded beauty, Joe.



Yup,I'm referring to the bigger,deeper notch back toward the eye.Someone said his thought is it's so the hand can be placed higher up for certain types of work.I tend to go along with that.


----------



## dancan

rarefish383 said:


> Dan, I don't think he meant the nail puller notch, but the bigger notch between the nail puller and the eye. I really like that little bearded beauty, Joe.



Here's one that's available for you Southerners 

https://www.garrettwade.com/japanese-hand-axe.html


----------



## dancan

GVS said:


> The ability to choke up a bit more would be an advantage for some work.I can buy that.Thanks.
> 
> 
> Yup,I'm referring to the bigger,deeper notch back toward the eye.Someone said his thought is it's so the hand can be placed higher up for certain types of work.I tend to go along with that.



You should put up a pic of that chopper .


----------



## svk

Did anyone else have trouble loading the previous page? I had a heck of a time and normally have no issues on this site. Not sure if it's due to all of the bandwidth posted or what.


----------



## svk

I think I have my answer. Put it in a warmer location this morning and by noon it's showing much more activity


----------



## dancan

It's the Hults Bruk ax head pic that is making the page load slow .
I guess the server is just in awe of those HB heads lol


----------



## svk

I wondered, it seemed to freeze as it was loading that pic.


----------



## GVS

dancan said:


> You should put up a pic of that chopper .


If you watch the video of the Norwegian making an axe head at, I think about 3 or 4 minutes in he and his brother,using a bar and sledge hammer put that notch into the axe head.That is the notch I'm referring to.

The video is on page 27,titled "Traditional Crafts of Norway"


----------



## GVS

svk said:


> Did anyone else have trouble loading the previous page? I had a heck of a time and normally have no issues on this site. Not sure if it's due to all of the bandwidth posted or what.


Yes ,its been happening to me off and on for a couple of days.Clears itself up on its own.This site only.


----------



## dancan

GVS said:


> If you watch the video of the Norwegian making an axe head at, I think about 3 or 4 minutes in he and his brother,using a bar and sledge hammer put that notch into the axe head.That is the notch I'm referring to.
> 
> The video is on page 27,titled "Traditional Crafts of Norway"



Yup , it lets you choke up for more control on fine work .


----------



## Multifaceted

Worked on a certain little 2.5 lb Plumb cruiser today... removed the rust and re-profiled a severely damaged/chipped bit. All in all, only reduced the overall weight by 0.5 oz. The patina is pretty nice already after removing the rust and some latent paint, so I won't take it any further and will leave it as it is. Lookin' good!


----------



## H-Ranch

Multifaceted said:


> Worked on a certain little 2.5 lb Plumb cruiser today... removed the rust and re-profiled a severely damaged/chipped bit. All in all, only reduced the overall weight by 0.5 oz. The patina is pretty nice already after removing the rust and some latent paint, so I won't take it any further and will leave it as it is. Lookin' good!


This restoration brought to you by Kenmore. LOL. I had to check that it wasn't an advertisement on my phone.


----------



## Multifaceted

H-Ranch said:


> This restoration brought to you by Kenmore. LOL. I had to check that it wasn't an advertisement on my phone.



You're looking at the wrong logo, sir. This restoration is brought to you by PLUMB - the home appliance thread is thataway ---->


----------



## H-Ranch

Multifaceted said:


> You're looking at the wrong logo, sir. This restoration is brought to you by PLUMB - the home appliance thread is thataway ---->


I expected to see PLUMB but i sure didn't expect to see Kenmore! I did a double take because I thought The Google had a new way of inserting ads. LOL


----------



## Multifaceted

Meh, it just happened to be the middle of my chest freezer/fermentation chamber where I sat it. It is in front a window in my shop so it had good lighting for the photo. If I were to take another photo with items in the background, you're bound to see a half dozen brand logos on tools and whatnot.

Having said that, are you by chance in the market for a new refrigerator?


----------



## rarefish383

I'll have to go check the shed, I think I have a little Plumb just like that? Nope, mines missing! Lookin good in the neighborhood. Might be time for a new book on ax restoration. Double thanks again, Joe.


----------



## svk

Let it sit in vinegar for about a day and a half and gave it a wet sand, rinse, dry, and douse with some PB brand spray.

The eye is 5/8" x about 2". The only thing close I see on House Handle's site is a "Cruiser axe" handle which is 5/8" x 2 1/4". I guess I'll poke around the hardware stores locally a bit if time ever allows.


----------



## abbott295

I guess any kind of rehanging an axe counts as restoration, no matter how old they may be, so I have come up with a couple of questions in that regard. 

One is about two Jersey pattern heads that I have. The only marks I have found is 3 1/2 on one side of the poll. The question has to do with the eye being about a quarter to three-eighths of an inch wider than the end of the handle. (The longer direction,) Is it posssible to successfully hang it like that, or do I need to find another handle? 

Next question is, do I really need to shave down the handle? I think it seems to be fine the way it is. How would I know if it doesn't "fit" my hands. How much do I need to use an axe to know? I really don't use one much. 

Thanks,

Abbott295


----------



## rarefish383

Most handles seem to fit my hands well, so I don't shave them. But, I mostly use my axes for throwing. I say if it feels good leave it. If you get into collecting and using them, then decide if they need fitting, Joe.


----------



## rarefish383

That being said, the Octagonal one Clarence brought by my house felt REALLY good in my hands. So, maybe there is something to knowing if it fits, Joe.


----------



## svk

I've had a few where the eye was longer than the handle by a little. 

The modern heads I've had to rehang rarely seem to need any work on the handle. Most of the older heads seem to need some material taken off the handle.


----------



## Multifaceted

abbott295 said:


> I guess any kind of rehanging an axe counts as restoration, no matter how old they may be, so I have come up with a couple of questions in that regard.
> 
> One is about two Jersey pattern heads that I have. The only marks I have found is 3 1/2 on one side of the poll. The question has to do with the eye being about a quarter to three-eighths of an inch wider than the end of the handle. (The longer direction,) Is it posssible to successfully hang it like that, or do I need to find another handle?
> 
> Next question is, do I really need to shave down the handle? I think it seems to be fine the way it is. How would I know if it doesn't "fit" my hands. How much do I need to use an axe to know? I really don't use one much.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Abbott295



Your first question I understand, but a picture would be helpful. If it's wider than the handle, then I am inclined to think that the poll of the axe is also mushroomed out from pounding on it. The axe head is a milder steel (lower carbon content) than the bit and will bend and flex under constant force. I've seen eyes opened up from repeated beating on the back of the poll. You should never do that, but people still do and have for years...

As to shaving the handle down, it serves two purposes: 1.) it can be tailored to your grip, and 2.) a thinner handle will have more flex. Hickory and ash, especially hickory has the perfect balance of strength and elasticity. You want some flex in your axe for shock absorption and for the whipping action used in effective chopping. If you look back in the history books or old logging photos during the time when the axe was used as a primary tool, you would notice how thin and slender the axe handles were. Our forebearers did that for a reason - they used them every day. They had been using axes longer than we haven't. If you're not going to use it much or just plan to hang it on the wall or use as a conversation piece, then sculpting the handle won't matter. However, if you're serious about using an axe, then eventually you'll discover that the thick, club-like handles you find at the hardware store are not what you want to be swinging for hours on end. I'm not a huge guy, but I'm 6'1", 200 lbs and I like my axe handles thin. When I'm swinging and gripping a thick handle and fatigue sets in, it is harder to hold on to and can become a dangerous situation.

Just my $0.02




rarefish383 said:


> That being said, the Octagonal one Clarence brought by my house felt REALLY good in my hands. So, maybe there is something to knowing if it fits, Joe.



The octagonal handle is more for purchase (the effectiveness of grip), not so much the thickness. That handle, Joe, I also shaved down a good bit after I got it and rounded the angles.


----------



## Bobby Kirbos

svk said:


> Let it sit in vinegar for about a day and a half and gave it a wet sand, rinse, dry, and douse with some PB brand spray.
> 
> The eye is 5/8" x about 2". The only thing close I see on House Handle's site is a "Cruiser axe" handle which is 5/8" x 2 1/4". I guess I'll poke around the hardware stores locally a bit if time ever allows.
> 
> View attachment 630798


Check Beaver Tooth
https://beaver-tooth.com/collections/huson-bay-axe-handle

It looks like their "Boys Axe" handles are made for the eye size that you have.


----------



## svk

Found a new handle for the repaired head. I was wrong, this was a boys axe pattern as I originally thought. I will hang it and then do the handle right with BLO next week.


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## Multifaceted

Bobby Kirbos said:


> Check Beaver Tooth
> https://beaver-tooth.com/collections/huson-bay-axe-handle
> 
> It looks like their "Boys Axe" handles are made for the eye size that you have.



I've bought from Beaver-Tooth many times, the handles are very good quality, albeit still a little thick - and you'll be waiting at least two weeks to ship...


----------



## svk

Bobby Kirbos said:


> Check Beaver Tooth
> https://beaver-tooth.com/collections/huson-bay-axe-handle
> 
> It looks like their "Boys Axe" handles are made for the eye size that you have.


Looks nice. Ironically I didn't see your post until after I had put up my picture post.

The House Handle boys axe dimensions are only a bit off. Should go on pretty easily.


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## svk

The old handle on that axe was split in a weird way. After I got it off I noticed why. Someone had pounded a big lag bolt into it as a wedge! Takes all types lol.


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## abbott295

Thanks to all for input. I guess even with saying it was the longer dimension that was off, it wasn't clear enough. Posting pictures is a challenge for me; I have done it a time or two, but don't have any clue now as to how I did it. I am thinking I have to email pictures to myself from either my phone or my computer and then get them from there into here somehow. I will be looking into it. The long dimension of the eye is longer than the end of the handle, not the shorter dimension. One of these heads has been beaten on, but not that badly to have misshapen the eye. 

The handle has three dimensions (length, width, and thickness) but the eye only has two, which correspond to width and thickness on the handle, but could be seen as length and width of the eye. Confusion reigns.


----------



## Multifaceted

abbott295 said:


> Thanks to all for input. I guess even with saying it was the longer dimension that was off, it wasn't clear enough. Posting pictures is a challenge for me; I have done it a time or two, but don't have any clue now as to how I did it. I am thinking I have to email pictures to myself from either my phone or my computer and then get them from there into here somehow. I will be looking into it. The long dimension of the eye is longer than the end of the handle, not the shorter dimension. One of these heads has been beaten on, but not that badly to have misshapen the eye.
> 
> The handle has three dimensions (length, width, and thickness) but the eye only has two, which correspond to width and thickness on the handle, but could be seen as length and width of the eye. Confusion reigns.



If you can't post pictures, at least give some dimensions - that will help.


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## kevin j

If you take the picture on your phone and post the reply here on your phone, it’s easy. Type your response then hit upload a file then grab the picture from your photos folder and post. On my iPhone the pictures are huge and it takes a while I don’t know how to reduce the pictures but adding them to a post is pretty easy. 

I am not a Luddite but I’m certainly not very tech savvy if I can do it you can do it


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## abbott295

These are not that axe. This is a little hatchet we found a few years ago at a garage/yard/moving and/or estate sale. We have kept it in the kitchen drawer with knives and cleavers. There do not appear to be any markings on it. Hand-made, home-made? It has the nail-puller notch. 

And yes, that was pretty simple to include them. Thanks, Kevin.


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## svk

abbott295 said:


> View attachment 631266
> View attachment 631267
> View attachment 631268
> View attachment 631270
> These are not that axe. This is a little hatchet we found a few years ago at a garage/yard/moving and/or estate sale. We have kept it in the kitchen drawer with knives and cleavers. There do not appear to be any markings on it. Hand-made, home-made? It has the nail-puller notch.
> 
> And yes, that was pretty simple to include them. Thanks, Kevin.


I have one very similar or possibly identical to that. Wondering if someone semi mass produced them back in the day?


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## svk

Did a little work on the boys axe head before I headed out from the cabin. 

Reprofiled the cutting edge to remove some of the very present rounding towards the top edge and took the mushroom out of the poll. Also tried to grind out the pin in the middle of the eye and ended up having to put it on the drill press. They really did a solid job with these pins. Not sure if I'll need to replace this one as the forward ones are very solid as well.


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## Good Feller

dancan said:


> Speaking of old axes , here's a vid of a real resto , old school .



I wants this guy as my neighbor!


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## al-k

I know there not a ax but thought maybe you guys mite like them. The two cleavers were my grandfathers, he always butchered our beef. Don't remember were I got the hatchet.


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## rarefish383

Looks like a makers name on the hatchet, but I can't read it. Who made it? Joe.


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## kevin j

Steve why remove the pins? I think they look pretty cool as it is. too late now but if the one goes through the handle area you could’ve cut it off on the inside of the eye and just left it on the outside for visual only.


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## kevin j

for something I had no prior interest in and just stumbled upon this is becoming a very interesting topic. I have two wooden handled hatchets that I’ve had for 40 years from a garage sale. one we used in the boundary waters camping for years and years. Now kept by the woodstove in case I need a quick split or something. The other is in my chainsaw pack for wedges. I also have a boys axe with about a 24 inch handle that I got on a garage sale. looked a little strange until I realized they installed the head upside down. that one was very poorly done, so I was able to actually Dremel out the wedge, flip the head over and put it back on the same handle. it turned out pretty well. that was several years ago before I even started on any of these sites.

all of them I bought to serve functional purposes. Were not stained, just oiled and natural age. but now that I realize they do look pretty nice so I’m starting to become interested in this. i want to get a couple hatchet sizes to hang for a couple people, just for the memory reasons. Once the spring garage sale season opens up (in, it seems, 6 months away around here) there will be some around.

i’m also doing a little bit with Kydex, holsters, so I made a cover for the ones that I have not intended to be decorative, certainly not period correct, again just totally functional for use as a tool.

I guess with age, less physical ability and less space, I’ve migrated from antique and custom cars to vintage trials motorcycles to vintage chainsaws and vintage sewing machines and vintage axes. not really by intent just what started off as ‘I need this as a tool’ turned into ‘this has some good memories’ and ‘this was built better than what I can buy in the store so I’d rather use this as a tool then a new one‘.

30 yrs ago I made a sheath for the canoe hatchet from 1/8 neoprene sheet rubber. Leather was always wet from rain or humidity, and held moisture agasint the steel. Made many rubber ones after that. Two side layers, and one spacer layer around the edge. Held with binding post screws or rivets. Nylon strap with velcro. The loop on front was to carabiner it to a pack. Kydex is easier to build, lighter, quicker on and off! Sort of like saws with higher rpm, lighter weight, better AV. Technology is good. Nostalgia is good. Different reasons.

These were tools, function over beauty. Now the canoe hatchet hangs by the wood stove, and another one is in my chainsaw pack.


----------



## svk

kevin j said:


> Steve why remove the pins? I think they look pretty cool as it is. too late now but if the one goes through the handle area you could’ve cut it off on the inside of the eye and just left it on the outside for visual only.


I removed the pin through the eye so I could set a new handle in without having to carve a notch out of it. I was debating putting in a new pin and I am still uncertain about what I want to do. 

The three forward pins are necessary to keep the crack at bay. I do not think the one in the eye is necessary and was just placed as insurance. We shall see though.


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## abbott295

Here pictures of the axe head and handle I was asking about if this can be successfully hung, or will it always have too much give and be working loose? 

Like Kevin j says, I have learned that there is a lot to learn about these things that I didn't even know that I didn't know.


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## kevin j

I meant cutting the inside surface of the steel pin flush with inside of eye, not notching the wood. Pin may have been intended like a retainer used on hookaroon. Doesn’t matter now, it will turn out fine anyway. Pics of your work are really nice.


----------



## svk

Good point. I guess I started grinding on the peened heads and after I couldn't get them to free up I just used the drill press. It was some tough metal!


----------



## dancan

abbott295 said:


> View attachment 631535
> View attachment 631536
> Here pictures of the axe head and handle I was asking about if this can be successfully hung, or will it always have too much give and be working loose?
> 
> Like Kevin j says, I have learned that there is a lot to learn about these things that I didn't even know that I didn't know.



I know you have some time invested in that but I'd save that handle for another head and find a handle with a bigger eye for a better fit .


----------



## al-k

rarefish383 said:


> Looks like a makers name on the hatchet, but I can't read it. Who made it? Joe.


All it says is forged steel


----------



## abbott295

Dancan, thanks. That is what I was wondering about. It was looking doubtful that it would want to stay on. I haven't been seeing anything much else around that looks like it will fit any better. I need to at least take measurements when I go looking. 

Like I say, I have two of these Jersey heads, the fit is the same. I have another head of a different pattern that I need to see if it will fit this handle better.


----------



## Multifaceted

abbott295 said:


> View attachment 631535
> View attachment 631536
> Here pictures of the axe head and handle I was asking about if this can be successfully hung, or will it always have too much give and be working loose?
> 
> Like Kevin j says, I have learned that there is a lot to learn about these things that I didn't even know that I didn't know.




For some reason, Jersey patterns tend to have an elongated eye, I feel your pain. Jersey's are one of my favorite axe patterns. Personally, I would not hang that head on that handle, at least so long as you intend to actually use it. The last Jersey I hung also had an elongated eye, but I found that House Handle Co. turns their hafts for single bits that will fit that. I would take some measurements on the bottom of the head and compare with what you find for handle eye size. The eye measurement of 13/16 x 2 7/16 worked for my recent True Temper Kelley Perfect below:


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## dancan

A 30" handle from Hultafors has a big handle eye .


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## abbott295

Multifaceted said,

"If you look back in the history books or old logging photos during the time when the axe was used as a primary tool, you would notice how thin and slender the axe handles were." 

This got me to thinking; I grew up in the vicinity of a town that was known as a lumber capital back in its day, mid to late 1800s, Clinton, Iowa. My parents, for the last maybe 20 years, one of their pastimes was to go to estate sales, and at the end, make an offer on what was left. They bought bunches of stuff that way, we have outbuildings full of this stuff to deal with now, but among all of that there are probably two dozen or so axes. Some of them may date back a while. I have only noticed that some show quite a lot of wear. 

It seems that they could have gotten more in that amount of time. I have acquired 10 or so at garage sales around here in less time. I got four or five at one sale. I don't remember if these two Jersey heads were gotten with handles on them or just as heads. I mentioned somewhere that I had sent three axes with my son when he returned to St. Petersburg after Hurricane Irma; he brought them all back when he came up for Christmas. They weren't needed.


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## dancan

Here's a little derail that's worth watching 



And here's an on topic that's worth watching .


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## svk

Multifaceted said:


> For some reason, Jersey patterns tend to have an elongated eye, I feel your pain. Jersey's are one of my favorite axe patterns. Personally, I would not hang that head on that handle, at least so long as you intend to actually use it. The last Jersey I hung also had an elongated eye, but I found that House Handle Co. turns their hafts for single bits that will fit that. I would take some measurements on the bottom of the head and compare with what you find for handle eye size. The eye measurement of 13/16 x 2 7/16 worked for my recent True Temper Kelley Perfect below:


I am in awe of picture #2. That fit is perfect.


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## al-k

https://hartford.craigslist.org/bar/d/vintage-axes/6442824884.html Thought you guy's may be interested, nothing to do with me.


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## rarefish383

I'm almost ready to hang my little Plumb and Craftsman, what do you think about a laminated haft? Ash in the middle with Oak or Black Walnut on the out side. I saw some work a fellow out west is doing. He's polishing old family axes making heirloom wall hangers out of them. He's using some beautiful exotic woods on them, but I don't know haw safe they would be? I asked him to check us out, so he may be by, Joe.


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## rarefish383

Let me rephrase that. They may be fully functional, I just assumed they were wall hangers, with the woods he was using. He does beautiful work, Joe.


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## svk

Not sure on laminate. In theory it should be stronger than a solid piece but in reality I do not know how that would absorb shock?


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## Multifaceted

Without putting it through the test, I can't say anything about it, but I don't think I'd use one for utility, perhaps a decorative piece.

For striking handles, particular axes, flexibilty and elasticity are paramount. If strength was most important then why isn't oak the standard for handles? That's why woods like hickory and ash are used, they have a balance of strength and elasticity. I would think that laminating the wood with flexible woods like, say ash and red gum - would be the way to go if a laminated handle is desired.


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## Multifaceted

svk said:


> I am in awe of picture #2. That fit is perfect.



Thanks, sometimes we get lucky. Minimal gaps aren't anything to fuss over, but the perfect hang is definitely an object of pride.


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## Talus

Hello,

New here and a friend from another site said I should re-post this here. I've devoted the past year to learning axe and hatchet restoration using hardwoods once headed to the landfill. My first love is heirloom and display pieces, but I make utility and semi-utility axes, too. I'm trying to grow to a part-time gig when I retire in a few years. 

Cheers,

Jeff

This is a Blood Axe Co. on 'smoked' acacia:


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## Talus

Some experiments in olive with black epoxy and manzanita:


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## Talus

SAW and Super Banco on mesquite:


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## Talus

This pitted old scrap hatchet found it's way into a music video "Renegade Ridge" by the Viking-themed Folk Metal band Adavant.


Haft is mesquite.


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## Talus

In the shop with the BFG [Big Friendly Grinder], a 300-lb behemoth that runs a 2 HP motor through a gear box onto a shaft with 2 contour wheels:


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## Talus

Traded this mallet for some wood left over from the slab mill trade, Mesquite, walnut, maple.


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## svk

Welcome Jeff! Beautiful work!


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## Talus

Wife found this head buried in a wash near a century-old mining claim in the Tonto NF. Knife is local Ironwood.


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## Multifaceted

@Jeff Page — those look amazing. Personally, I'm not big on high polished steel heads, but they contrast great with the rich wood finish. By the way, 'SAW' is Wetterlings, they're pretty high end axes, and recently became collector's items due to production ceasing.


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## Talus

svk said:


> Welcome Jeff! Beautiful work!


Thank you!


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## Talus

Yes, but Wetterlings takes longer to type 

The more axes I restored, the less I polished as well. Working on a couple that I'll photo soon with minimal polish.


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## lead farmer

Not sure if I can post pics any more with all these professionals in here [emoji38]

Dang, that's some pretty stuff....

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## svk

This pales into comparison to what is further up the page but I got the boys axe hung and one coat of BLO rubbed in.


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## svk

This handle was a House Handle Co purchased from the local hardware store. I had to dig through about ten of them to find one with acceptable grain. One thing I'll say is they leave a lot of extra material below the head and that area is often milled crooked as well. With what I've seen from the hardware store, I doubt I'd order directly from them even with the option to have a hand picked handle.


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## dancan

Jeff , welcome aboard !
Nice bunch of work you put up , while I'm not into shine I have to admit , beautiful work to be proud of !!!
Steve , I have to agree about them House handles , I'm not impressed with what I've seen , VB Swinger [at least the ones I've seen] are much nicer .


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## Multifaceted

Jeff Page said:


> Yes, but Wetterlings takes longer to type
> 
> The more axes I restored, the less I polished as well. Working on a couple that I'll photo soon with minimal polish.



Got ya, just making sure  I'd charge a few extra coin for that one, that steel is top notch quality.


----------



## Multifaceted

Jeff Page said:


> In the shop with the BFG [Big Friendly Grinder], a 300-lb behemoth that runs a 2 HP motor through a gear box onto a shaft with 2 contour wheels:
> 
> View attachment 632383
> View attachment 632384



Very nice! I thought the 'F' stood for something else, ha ha...

I'm hoping to purchase a nice 2x72 VFD belt grinder for shaping and stock removal in the near future. Blacksmithing is a short term goal of mine


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## abbott295

Jeff Page, those are some pretty axes. I am wondering on those that have such pretty wood, if you concern yourself with grain orientation, or do you figure they won't be used for much chopping? Or are all those woods good for axe work?


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## Multifaceted

Thanks to @rarefish383 for gifting me this 3.8 lb Michigan head! It was pretty well rusted over and badly beaten on the poll and top of the head, but no real eye deformation. Took the ol' angle grinder to it and flattened out the mushrooming and opened up the top of the eye to fit the wood through. Going to put an 28" straight shaft handle on it for to use as a Faller's Axe to supplement my saw belt. Currently I use my Wetterlings 2.5 lb Hudson Bay as my falling axe with saw work, but having the additional weight to pound wedges will come in useful, just need a larger scabbard for it on my belt.


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## svk

Are you thinning that one out?


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## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Are you thinning that one out?



You're darn right I am, this handle is too damn thick! Pre-made handles always are, but I look at it as an opportunity to sculpt the grip. I really need to start buying stock hickory boards and buy a scroll saw... It's the same amount of work!


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## svk

Yeah no doubt plus much easier to monitor the grain.


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## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> Thanks to @rarefish383 for gifting me this 3.8 lb Michigan head! It was pretty well rusted over and badly beaten on the poll and top of the head, but no real eye deformation. Took the ol' angle grinder to it and flattened out the mushrooming and opened up the top of the eye to fit the wood through. Going to put an 28" straight shaft handle on it for to use as a Faller's Axe to supplement my saw belt. Currently I use my Wetterlings 2.5 lb Hudson Bay as my falling axe with saw work, but having the additional weight to pound wedges will come in useful, just need a larger scabbard for it on my belt.


That will be a nice wedge beater


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## svk

I've had this latest handle in the sun all day and it is still wet several hours after coat #3. The previous handles took 5-6 coats quickly before they slowed down. Not sure if the lack of thirst is just due to the specific handle or the fact that it was very rainy here for 36 hours previous.


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## Multifaceted

Steve, try using some Japan Dry with your oil.


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## svk

Going to need to google that one


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## abbott295

Some before pictures of the other head. It says PLUMB. Michigan pattern?


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## abbott295

Looks like the grain was running good.


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## jakethesnake

Five pound plumb. Round one. Homemade maple handle


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## jakethesnake

Round two. Links brand handle.


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## jakethesnake

I drive that small wedge in the front of the axe handle where I still had a little eye showing. This is a truper brand handle. I have the same handle in an 8 pound maul. It’s held up well. 



You can see the splintered broken links handle in the last picture laying in the floor.


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## jakethesnake

Round three above there


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## Trx250r180

Jake ,if you shave some wood off the sides of the handle ,the head will go down further and the gap in the front may go away ,i just did one ,the handle was about an inch or so above the head when i was done fitting it ,i just cut it off after .


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## jakethesnake

Trx250r180 said:


> Jake ,if you shave some wood off the sides of the handle ,the head will go down further and the gap in the front may go away ,i just did one ,the handle was about an inch or so above the head when i was done fitting it ,i just cut it off after .


Yessir. On a different site I have these posted. I just got tired of whittling. It was quite an effort to get that far. It woulda took a good bit more effort so I finally just pinned it down. I figure if it ever loosens up. I’ll go down further then.


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## jakethesnake

How you been Brian ?


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## svk

Does anybody do a "wet sand" after the handle has been rubbed with BLO? I remember someone recommended that to me back during my first handle restoration on that big 6# True Temper I did a couple of years ago. I never tried it but wasn't sure if that would make the handle gummy or if the residue would rub off...


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## abbott295

Here it is with the remains of the old handle out. 

I see I put up a couple pictures of a beat-up brick hammer. I think I can make it into a pickaroon. How long of a handle should I put on it?


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Does anybody do a "wet sand" after the handle has been rubbed with BLO? I remember someone recommended that to me back during my first handle restoration on that big 6# True Temper I did a couple of years ago. I never tried it but wasn't sure if that would make the handle gummy or if the residue would rub off...



Never heard of doing that, but often in between coats (after it's dry) I'll buff with some extra fine steel wool.


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## svk

Good thinking!


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## 95custmz

abbott295 said:


> View attachment 632973
> View attachment 632974
> View attachment 632975
> 
> Here it is with the remains of the old handle out.
> 
> I see I put up a couple pictures of a beat-up brick hammer. I think I can make it into a pickaroon. How long of a handle should I put on it?


I think 30" would be good. Unless, you prefer one shorter. See this link for various sizes. Scroll down towards bottom of page for pickaroon handles. http://www.peaveymfg.com/products-logging-tools-pickeroons


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## 95custmz

svk said:


> Going to need to google that one


http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/japan-drier. Didn't know they made such a thing


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## svk

abbott295 said:


> View attachment 632973
> View attachment 632974
> View attachment 632975
> 
> Here it is with the remains of the old handle out.
> 
> I see I put up a couple pictures of a beat-up brick hammer. I think I can make it into a pickaroon. How long of a handle should I put on it?


Anything from 24-36". I would probably do a standard 36" handle


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## Multifaceted

After dinner with my wife tonight I retired to the shop to grind some more on the no-name Michigan head for my Faller's Axe project. Smoothed out the grinds with a 60 grit flap disk on the angle grinder, the followed up with coarse grit pads on the pneumatic die grinder. After that, cleaned up and applied some Birchwood Casey Super Blue, then trued the edge and filed the chips out.


----------



## rarefish383

Cleaned up pretty good. I used to throw real rusty ones in the scrap bucket, now I might start buying rusty ones at sales.


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## rarefish383

Clarence, thanks. That cruiser you restored turned out so nice, I gave it to my wife for Valentines day, and she loved it. The 18K and Sapphire necklace may have helped, but since this is an ax thread, I didn't take a pic of the necklace, Joe.


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## rarefish383

Here's a couple more, that octagonal haft is sweet. Thanks again, Joe.


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## svk

Very, very nice guys


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## Multifaceted

Glad you like it, Joe! It was a fun project that I enjoyed, and to see the look on your face was priceless. Good on you for keeping that fine tool around, and I'm glad to have been able to lovingly restore and breathe some new life back into it. Enjoy and I hope it serves you well!


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## rarefish383

Getting to the "Rust Browning " of the Plumb that I polished. Sorry, I forgot to take pics till I was almost done. I just put the 5th coat on and I think one more will do it. I have to clean and degrease it, then heat the head to 275 degrees, or when water will sizzle. Then coat the metal well with the "Browning Solution", let it sit till cool. Rinse, degrease, and start over. Each coat gets a little darker. When finished it gets coated with a rust inhibitor, Joe.


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## rarefish383

It was getting pretty dark out and the ax looks better in person than the pic, but, this is the last coat, Joe


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## Multifaceted

Joe, looking good, but I think you have the head on upside down. Typically the makers stamp is on the left facing the cutting side. Is that just a temporary thing?


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## rarefish383

That was because I flipped it with each coat so I would get the bottom done evenly without dripping stuff in my eyes. A couple picks up it's on correct. That's actually a sacrificial handle for using the torch. I was planning on trying my hand at making an Ash haft from scratch, with octagonal grip. My friend that owns the Gunshack is an accomplished wood worker and stock maker. He said if I could find some Dogwood to try it. He said it's flexible and strong. He used it for wooden mallet handles. I just cut up a big Dogwood into turning blanks for my BIL. What do you think of the Dogwood for a short throwing handle? It wouldn't get much striking force.


----------



## dancan

I'm pretty sure that back in the day handles were made with local wood .


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## rarefish383

Well, I don't know if I should be in the firewood thread or the ax thread?


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## rarefish383

I guess I'll stay here,  Grain isn't looking too bad.


----------



## rarefish383

Wish I knew how to use the few power tools I have, most of this project is going to be a hand rasp project.


----------



## rarefish383

Starting to look like something?


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## svk

Looks good Joe, keep us posted!

I'm in northern VA, trying to make time before the rain turns to snow.


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## rarefish383

Too late Steve. I came in a few minutes ago for lunch. Had to run out and close the garage, had a layer of snow on my table saw and ax handle. It was bright sunshine and shirt sleeve comfortable when I came in. Now it's white out and I can't see my neighbors house, Joe.


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## svk

We'll keep pressing on. I'm about an hour south of you and it's still rain here!


----------



## abbott295

I certainly hope you have someone else doing the driving if you are doing the posting here, Steve. We want you to stay safe out there.


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## svk

Two adults in here, no worries. 

Not going to be fun for the next 7-8 hours though regardless who is in the drivers seat.


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## rarefish383

In my wife's car you can just talk and the blue tooth converts it into text, reads incoming texts too, don't need kids anymore, Joe.


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## svk

It's warmed back up to 33 and the snow is a bit lighter. Fingers crossed.


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## rarefish383

Almost stopped a while ago, Now the snow flakes look like snowballs. All the ground is white, pavement is just wet.


----------



## dancan

Here's a pic from the 50's showing a double bit with a thin handle and a big palm swell .


----------



## dancan

Doesn't show , here's the link 

http://www.novastory.ca/cdm/singleitem/collection/digphotos/id/3359/rec/397


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## Talus

abbott295 said:


> Jeff Page, those are some pretty axes. I am wondering on those that have such pretty wood, if you concern yourself with grain orientation, or do you figure they won't be used for much chopping? Or are all those woods good for axe work?


Depends on the job. Some pieces are display only, with grain not a factor. For hard use axes parallel grained hickory is great, although one can get the best of both worlds by laminating a wood like mesquite or acacia.


----------



## Talus

I agree, hardware store hickory handles are fat and a crapshoot. But most folks don't care. Here are a couple just out of the shop. The degree of polish and shine is up to the customer; I do what they want. For my own display pieces, I experiment constantly.


----------



## svk

I'm still alive. We narrowly missed the major accidents along I-78 in Pennsylvania. Luckily my map app dumped us off the freeway before the traffic backed up. We're running quite late but so far we are in one piece.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> We'll keep pressing on. I'm about an hour south of you and it's still rain here!





rarefish383 said:


> That was because I flipped it with each coat so I would get the bottom done evenly without dripping stuff in my eyes. A couple picks up it's on correct. That's actually a sacrificial handle for using the torch. I was planning on trying my hand at making an Ash haft from scratch, with octagonal grip. My friend that owns the Gunshack is an accomplished wood worker and stock maker. He said if I could find some Dogwood to try it. He said it's flexible and strong. He used it for wooden mallet handles. I just cut up a big Dogwood into turning blanks for my BIL. What do you think of the Dogwood for a short throwing handle? It wouldn't get much striking force.



I got ya, wasn't doubting you, just thought it was odd. The grain on that piece of ash looks like a winner, and the rough shaping has me excited. How do you plan to sculpt it, do you have a draw knife? No input on dogwood for striking handles, I know it's dense, but I'd have to take someone else word for it on its flexibility. For a short thrower it probably wouldn't matter much anyway.

@svk - glad you made it back down south safely. We got about 2" of wet snow, luckily we made it home from dad's just as it started to stick, then didn't leave the house after that.


----------



## Multifaceted

Talus said:


> I agree, hardware store hickory handles are fat and a crapshoot. But most folks don't care. Here are a couple just out of the shop. The degree of polish and shine is up to the customer; I do what they want. For my own display pieces, I experiment constantly.



Nice looking work, again! And yes, I agree, while I still rely on pre-made handles for now, they are always too thick. I've got a Link brand handle that I hand selected for straightness and grain orientation, but it's about 1.5" thick, it's like they started with 6/4 blanks and turned it just long enough round it out. I typically spend about an hour using a drawknife, spokeshave, and rasp thinning them out to an acceptable and usable contour.


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## dancan

When you blow up the pics you'll see that the they've whipped the helve shoulder to protect against overstrike , snare wire and mechanics wire were commonly used in my area .


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## svk

Multifaceted said:


> I got ya, wasn't doubting you, just thought it was odd. The grain on that piece of ash looks like a winner, and the rough shaping has me excited. How do you plan to sculpt it, do you have a draw knife? No input on dogwood for striking handles, I know it's dense, but I'd have to take someone else word for it on its flexibility. For a short thrower it probably wouldn't matter much anyway.
> 
> @svk - glad you made it back down south safely. We got about 2" of wet snow, luckily we made it home from dad's just as it started to stick, then didn't leave the house after that.


I was on my way up. We got here around 1:20 this morning. Did sleep well after that white knuckle drive though.


----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> I got ya, wasn't doubting you, just thought it was odd. The grain on that piece of ash looks like a winner, and the rough shaping has me excited. How do you plan to sculpt it, do you have a draw knife? No input on dogwood for striking handles, I know it's dense, but I'd have to take someone else word for it on its flexibility. For a short thrower it probably wouldn't matter much anyway.
> 
> @svk - glad you made it back down south safely. We got about 2" of wet snow, luckily we made it home from dad's just as it started to stick, then didn't leave the house after that.


Small hand plane and rasp. Keep whittling till it feels good. Got plenty more if I goof this one up.


----------



## Talus

I'm thinking standard replacement handles have evolved so as to require less and less finishing, and to be as easy as possible on tooling. Personally, I'm all about chunky, but not in an axe handle 

As my hands get older, they hurt more, and pain is the factor most determining of haft-shaping technique. Enter the BFG.


----------



## rarefish383

Jeff and Clarence, thanks for inspiring me to make my own handle. It's turning out OK. I'll have pics tonight. I'm covered in saw dust so I can't get to the computer. I got my head a little off center to the haft, but had plenty wood to get it straight. Rasping by hand I kept keeping it even but off center. I took it out on the band saw and think I got it straight. We will see?


----------



## Multifaceted

Inspiration, motivation, perspiration. That's how things get done!


----------



## rarefish383

Up date. That piece of Ash firewood didn't look big till I started to whittle it down.
















I still have to thin it ALOT, but I kind of like the profile. Going to try and put the octagonal touch on it. That's the Plumb head that I polished then browned. When I polished it I got the eye a little thin on one side, so it was hard trying to match the wood up tight. The two sides of the eye were a little different. Should be able to finish it tomorrow, Joe.


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## svk

http://tennhickory.com/index.shtml

These guys look promising but I couldn't find any prices.


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## rarefish383

Put a couple hours worth of rasp work on the haft, still has a ways to go, Joe.


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## Multifaceted

That looks nice, Joe! It looks more black than brown in the photo. I think if you wedge that sucker on there from the top good enough, the flat shoulders might not be an issue.


----------



## Multifaceted

Thanks again to, Joe @rarefish383 for giving me this old no-name Michigan head. It's about 3.8 lb, so I decided to make it into a proper fallers axe. I've posted some progress before, but here are the finished results:


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## svk

Excellent as always. Is that a homemade handle too?


----------



## rarefish383

Picked this one up today. I screwed up. Was at an auction and the auctioneer said everything on the table, high bid has choice. There was a rotating angle vise on the table too. I had high bid at $22.50 and took the hatchet. Nobody else wanted the hatchet, they wanted the vise. I should have taken the vise and then the hatchet probably would have gone for $5. Anyway, I'm happy, True Temper Hewing Hatchet, single bevel, original handle, never sharpened, no dings on the poll, Joe.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Excellent as always. Is that a homemade handle too?


No, it was a turned handle from House. Thinned it out, but not too much.


----------



## dancan

I had a friend drop off a nice Hults Bruk 2 1/2 lb DB cruiser today 
I'll get a pic this weekend .


----------



## dancan

His wife didn't like the looks of it and wanted it gone lol


----------



## Good Feller

rarefish383 said:


> Picked this one up today. I screwed up. Was at an auction and the auctioneer said everything on the table, high bid has choice. There was a rotating angle vise on the table too. I had high bid at $22.50 and took the hatchet. Nobody else wanted the hatchet, they wanted the vise. I should have taken the vise and then the hatchet probably would have gone for $5. Anyway, I'm happy, True Temper Hewing Hatchet, single bevel, original handle, never sharpened, no dings on the poll, Joe.


I've been working on one like this. Funny, I thought this head predated true temper.


----------



## rarefish383

When I saw it on the table the True Temper on the handle was down. I thought, by looking at it, it was older. Then I flipped it over and thought "wow, this isn't all that old".


----------



## rarefish383

All done, the rusty old Plumb that I polished, then Browned and then stuck on a piece of fire wood is hung. Yesterday I tried to cut the slot for the wedge with the table saw and screwed it up. Lucky I was only taking about a half inch deep pass. I had to cut it off and move the head down. Then I cut the slot with the band saw and it worked OK. I had the fit in the eye perfect, tight, front to back. After I buggered it up, it was lose in the front. So, I tried to notch the Black Walnut wedge to take up the slack. It's close. I'm happy with my first attempt at making a handle, Joe.


----------



## rarefish383

Oops, don't know how that happened. Here's the other two pics, Joe.


----------



## rarefish383

Not doing very good this morning.


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## svk

Looks great!


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## rarefish383

What do you do with a big crotch slab of Black Walnut? Throw Hatchets at it of course!


----------



## rarefish383

What do you do with nasty ol' Gum saplings in the woods? Chop them down, of course!


----------



## svk

I have to ask. How often does the axe stick in the plank versus hit handle first and fall off?


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## LondonNeil

I like the black wedge you put in, looks smart


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## rarefish383

The Hatchet is plenty sharp, and it will chop. But, the head is too heavy for one handed chopping, and the haft is not real comfortable for two handed use. After 15-20 rather rapid swings, I was panting. It will take small limbs off with the greatest of ease. Just a modest swing and they are gone like a breath. It's quite nice for throwing. As I thinned the haft the natural grip went from being most comfortable in the middle, too very comfortable with your pinky around the knob on the end. At 15 feet every throw stuck, but every throw stuck at an angle. All of the grinding I did I'm sure the head is far from balanced. It was a lot of fun turning a chunk of rust and a piece of firewood into a family heirloom. Not planning on making any more handles from scratch for a while.


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## rarefish383

svk said:


> I have to ask. How often does the axe stick in the plank versus hit handle first and fall off?


Never, I'll show you how to throw tomorrow.


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## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> I like the black wedge you put in, looks smart


Thanks Neil, the wedge is Black Walnut. Very, very, valuable Black Walnut.


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## Good Feller

rarefish383 said:


> When I saw it on the table the True Temper on the handle was down. I thought, by looking at it, it was older. Then I flipped it over and thought "wow, this isn't all that old".


Is it possible that hung that head on a true temper handle?


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## rarefish383

Good Feller said:


> Is it possible that hung that head on a true temper handle?


No, the head is stamped "True Temper TB2". I didn't notice at first, but if you look in the pic you can see it. I've done a quick search trying to find when they started using that style True Temper logo, but haven't found anything yet. I've always liked old axes, but I know very little about them as far as history and brand buy outs, name changes and such. But, I'm learnin.


----------



## Good Feller

rarefish383 said:


> No, the head is stamped "True Temper TB2". I didn't notice at first, but if you look in the pic you can see it. I've done a quick search trying to find when they started using that style True Temper logo, but haven't found anything yet. I've always liked old axes, but I know very little about them as far as history and brand buy outs, name changes and such. But, I'm learnin.


I'm fascinated with all the antique tools, especially axes, knives, saws, and Kant hooks. Mine doesn't say true temper. But I do have a double bit that says "temp-r-ite" that I know nothing about. The guys on here are VERY knowledgeable and taking in as much as I can as often as I can.


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## rarefish383

Good Feller said:


> I'm fascinated with all the antique tools, especially axes, knives, saws, and Kant hooks. Mine doesn't say true temper. But I do have a double bit that says "temp-r-ite" that I know nothing about. The guys on here are VERY knowledgeable and taking in as much as I can as often as I can.


I used to say "I hang out with the old guys, cause they know lots of stuff." Now I'm the old guy, and I have to hang out with the young guys, cause they still know more than me.


----------



## Good Feller

rarefish383 said:


> I used to say "I hang out with the old guys, cause they know lots of stuff." Now I'm the old guy, and I have to hang out with the young guys, cause they still know more than me.


I'm right in the middle. I feel old but still really appreciate the knowledge of the "old timers" that have the hands on experience. Most the people I know that are younger than I am come to me for advice and help...dear god I must be older than I thought


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## Good Feller

I screwed up on this ones haft and have a lot of cleaning and honing to do still but the true temper design looks a lot like this.


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## rarefish383

Yours looks like it is sharpened on both sides of the blade. Mine is only sharpened on one side. It's flat on the other side for hewing logs square.


----------



## dancan

My new to me Hults Bruk cruiser


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## derwoodii

I been volunteer setting up axe throw competition for past 5 years and each year the competitors will break about 2 axe handles. 
It be ok i was at my work shop but im not and have to make shift repairs with what ever i got on hand.. So honing down a handle with chain saw and saw file or scrounging old handles and fitting in wedges eg screws nails anything that will hold & work has become the normal day & last week much the same again.. Im wondering if plastic compound handles be better absorb the hit not split.. 

had some odd ball axes this year a small hatched double & another that looked interesting but actually was useless as to light and would butterfly about with throw and not penetrate wood if scored a hit.


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## LondonNeil

that looks loooouuuuuurverrly Dan!


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## svk

After seeing Joe's very nice fleet of axes today it's obvious I need to up my game in the sharpening department!

Had fun trying out his throwing axe. Never tried that before.


----------



## Good Feller

rarefish383 said:


> Yours looks like it is sharpened on both sides of the blade. Mine is only sharpened on one side. It's flat on the other side for hewing logs square.


It is edged on both sides, that's how I received it. It's not even the proper honing for an axe. The angle it has follows the circumference of edge, creating a lip.


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## rarefish383

Good Feller said:


> It is edged on both sides, that's how I received it. It's not even the proper honing for an axe. The angle it has follows the circumference of edge, creating a lip.


After looking at the two axes,they are different. Having the big square poll and lugs on the top and bottom makes them look similar. Yours has a curved blade sharpened on both sides. Mine has a straight blade with single bevel. I read somewhere that some hewing axes were made so the head could be flipped over for right and left handed use, with the single bevel that makes sense. That might be why it has lugs on the top and bottom. With the ones that are hung on offset handles that really makes sense.


----------



## Good Feller

rarefish383 said:


> After looking at the two axes,they are different. Having the big square poll and lugs on the top and bottom makes them look similar. Yours has a curved blade sharpened on both sides. Mine has a straight blade with single bevel. I read somewhere that some hewing axes were made so the head could be flipped over for right and left handed use, with the single bevel that makes sense. That might be why it has lugs on the top and bottom. With the ones that are hung on offset handles that really makes sense.[/


----------



## fulladirt

This is a great thread I really enjoy looking through all the pictures. Thanks to all who've posted.

I found this old head on the farm, it was about to go into a scrap pile a few years ago but I grabbed it up and just got done putting a handle on it. I can't find any markings on the head.









Reading through this thread a few days ago I thought geez I have some broken axes sitting around at my splitting area, I oughta take a look. Damn if there wasn't this TT Kelly Works Red Warrior sitting there, I'd broke the handle on it last year. Didn't take any before pics but I put it to my wire wheel and got the rust off then put a light coat of WD40, can't wait to get a handle on it.


----------



## lead farmer

tprepd1 said:


> This is a great thread I really enjoy looking through all the pictures. Thanks to all who've posted.
> 
> I found this old head on the farm, it was about to go into a scrap pile a few years ago but I grabbed it up and just got done putting a handle on it. I can't find any markings on the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reading through this thread a few days ago I thought geez I have some broken axes sitting around at my splitting area, I oughta take a look. Damn if there wasn't this TT Kelly Works Red Warrior sitting there, I'd broke the handle on it last year. Didn't take any before pics but I put it to my wire wheel and got the rust off then put a light coat of WD40, can't wait to get a handle on it.


Well look at that...I been lookin for a jersey for ever an you just pull one outa the wood pile. Lucky dog you. We're gonna need pics when your done buddy. [emoji38]

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## fulladirt

I was using them for weights to hold the tin roof on my firewood guess I just didn't know any better. There was one said "India" on it, then another that has a cracked eye. But that jersey came to me from my neighbor, he'd seen me splitting wood one day and brought that axe over to help me, good strong guy too my buddy. Anyway, he left the axe with me said he had a bunch of them he never uses so here ya go. I will post some pictures when I get that handle fitted.


----------



## svk

tprepd1 said:


> I was using them for weights to hold the tin roof on my firewood guess I just didn't know any better. There was one said "India" on it, then another that has a cracked eye. But that jersey came to me from my neighbor, he'd seen me splitting wood one day and brought that axe over to help me, good strong guy too my buddy. Anyway, he left the axe with me said he had a bunch of them he never uses so here ya go. I will post some pictures when I get that handle fitted.


Looks great! As a suggestion you may want to get after the poll of that first one with a file or grinder to remove the mushrooming to avoid the risk of it chipping off while in use


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## svk

I started following "Sullivan Axe Works" on Facebook today. They specialize in fireman's axes but they do a really good job and do have a few regular axes on their page as well.


----------



## fulladirt

Thanks svk and I hadn't thought of doing that. I'll take your advice and grind it off before use.
I've had pieces fly off my mushroomed wedges that sounded just like a ricocheted bullet.


----------



## dancan

I'm careful with the grinder when cleaning up the abuse then I finish with a file .
Now if I had that BFG ...


----------



## fulladirt

Rummaged around one of the old barns today and found this "TT Kelly Works Perfect" axe head. It's a little rough, has a chip or 2 and some mushrooming on the bottom of the poll (somehow), but I'm hoping it'll clean up ok. Never had an axe with cheeks before and it feels lighter than my others, are they more fragile? 
Sorry the picture didn't come out the best.


----------



## lead farmer

Well look at that ! You guys just keep coming up with these jersey heads an I'm left with just lookin at pics [emoji51]

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## lead farmer

tprepd1 said:


> Rummaged around one of the old barns today and found this "TT Kelly Works Perfect" axe head. It's a little rough, has a chip or 2 and some mushrooming on the bottom of the poll (somehow), but I'm hoping it'll clean up ok. Never had an axe with cheeks before and it feels lighter than my others, are they more fragile?
> Sorry the picture didn't come out the best.


Nice axe by the way 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Homelitexl903

I was at my Fathers compound today and came across some interesting axe heads. The first one I grabbed needed some pb blaster and a rag to make out the marks on the head. S A W logo 3 1/2 pound which I believe is an old Wetterlings. The next was an old Atco 2 1/4 from west Germany. The last was a small unmarked double bit. The poll on the wetterlings looks unused but it does have a chip in the cutting edge that will need work. The Atco poll will need attention and a little work on the cutting edge. It was a good day for a guy that likes rusty old axes.


----------



## LondonNeil

I've noticed my x27, which has a silver head, has recently developed a blackening. I've seen it before on my stihl maul. i've been splitting oak and reckon the tannic acids in the sap have stained it...just like how iron nails in oak cause a black stain in the wood. this set me thinking....anyone tried something like an 'oak saw chip broth bath' to clean and stain an axe head? i have some oak in need of bucking up, so may give it ago.


----------



## lead farmer

LondonNeil said:


> I've noticed my x27, which has a silver head, has recently developed a blackening. I've seen it before on my stihl maul. i've been splitting oak and reckon the tannic acids in the sap have stained it...just like how iron nails in oak cause a black stain in the wood. this set me thinking....anyone tried something like an 'oak saw chip broth bath' to clean and stain an axe head? i have some oak in need of bucking up, so may give it ago.


When we were kids we would boil our new traps in Walnut hulls, it made them black. Not sure if that heat would harm a axe or not.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## svk

lead farmer said:


> When we were kids we would boil our new traps in Walnut hulls, it made them black. Not sure if that heat would harm a axe or not.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Boiling definitely wouldn't mess with their temper


----------



## rarefish383

My cousin bought a box lot of stuff at an auction for a buck, this little Plumb was in the bottom.


----------



## rarefish383

I passed on this TT/Kelly Perfect. The sale was in the first barn and I had to go, the ax was in the third barn and scheduled to start at 4PM. The pics don't look that bad, but if you put a straight edge on the poll, you could slide a penny under it in the middle. Shame someone used it as a wedge.


----------



## rarefish383




----------



## lead farmer

rarefish383 said:


>


Sonofabeech. Another jersey. I guess I'm just gonna have to to the evilbay thing.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## rarefish383

I had to post that for you. If I didn't have a pot of soup on the stove I would have stayed, had other stuff to do also. We have a big farm auction coming up in 3 weeks, I'll keep an eye open.


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## rarefish383

I keep looking at those pics thinking I should have stayed and got it. But the back of that poll looked like a horseshoe! It looked like someone drove it with an 8 pound maul dead center, and they had a good eye, because the dent was almost perfectly centered.


----------



## lead farmer

rarefish383 said:


> I had to post that for you. If I didn't have a pot of soup on the stove I would have stayed, had other stuff to do also. We have a big farm auction coming up in 3 weeks, I'll keep an eye open.


If any you guys come across a jersey head to pawn off, just let me know [emoji38]

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## svk

I'll keep my eyes open for you. Except for that pin repaired head I found I haven't seen any in a while. Although I try to avoid flea markets and sales because I buy too much junk lol


----------



## svk

rarefish383 said:


> My cousin bought a box lot of stuff at an auction for a buck, this little Plumb was in the bottom.


Joe, is that a traditional grind on that carpenters hatchet? It looks more like a grind for a broad axe but wasn't sure if they did them differently back in the day. All of the carpenters hatchets I have seen were sharpened like the one you had in your basement.


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## rarefish383

Steve, I really don't know. This is a little hatchet and it looks to me to have been ground back quite a bit. Not sure what it looked like new. It's kind of hard to see, but the hammer is only about as big as my thumb. I'm heading out right now to see how it throws.


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## svk

rarefish383 said:


> Steve, I really don't know. This is a little hatchet and it looks to me to have been ground back quite a bit. Not sure what it looked like new. It's kind of hard to see, but the hammer is only about as big as my thumb. I'm heading out right now to see how it throws.


Have fun!

My wife told me one of her friends is doing axe throwing for her birthday at a bar up by Philly. Didn't know that such a passtime was offered for fee to potentially drunk people.


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## rarefish383




----------



## p61 western

lead farmer said:


> Well look at that ! You guys just keep coming up with these jersey heads an I'm left with just lookin at pics [emoji51]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


I'm telling ya your going to have to do the evilbay thing lol.


----------



## lead farmer

p61 western said:


> I'm telling ya your going to have to do the evilbay thing lol.


I been threatening for awhile haven't I ?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## p61 western

lead farmer said:


> I been threatening for awhile haven't I ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Lol you and me both. I was just looking, and there is some decent deals right now.


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## lead farmer

p61 western said:


> Lol you and me both. I was just looking, and there is some decent deals right now.


I guess I'll be lookin tonite

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## rarefish383

The farm auction is the 17th. I plan on bringing home a 5 gallon bucket full of ax heads. If I pick up any dollar no names I plan on polishing them to a piece of chrome, hanging on a house handle and selling to the local tourists.


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## svk

Axe patterns must be a regional thing as I had never seen a Jersey pattern until I fixed one for the children's camp out in upstate NY. Only seen Michigan pattern and a few Hudson Bays up around me.


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## rarefish383

p61 western said:


> I'm telling ya your going to have to do the evilbay thing lol.


Or, just move down here to MD, we throw them things away, they fill up the scrap metal bucket quick.


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## p61 western

rarefish383 said:


> Or, just move down here to MD, we throw them things away, they fill up the scrap metal bucket quick.


Well maybe you could set a few aside lol.


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## dancan

Just be patient .
I had never seen one up here until last summer , and then I found 2 real nice ones at 10$ each .


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## lead farmer

p61 western said:


> Well maybe you could set a few aside lol.


That's zackly what I'm thinkin

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## dancan

Had a few people at the shop yesterday , a young couple and an older gent , we were talking and the older chap asked what I did for a hobby ,,, So I showed him a few pics 












The older gent was a custom cabinet builder so we talked then the young fella asked about what knives and axes and wood I used so we chatted for quite a bit more .
The young fella said that his dream ax was to get a GB of some model , I let him know that none of the stuff I made needed a GB and to look for some nice vintage head and start with a rehandle .
Then he tells me that he did that with his grandfathers ax that was given to him but was unhappy with the handle that he ordered online from a US handle company and he showed me a pic of his grandfathers ax and the hatchet that his father gave him .
Both were stamped "Genuine Norlund" Hudson Bay , an ax and a hatchet!
SOB !! I don't have any of them lol
I told him to watch Skilcult's channel and that he had 2 fine axes .
He said that he didn't think that he got the hang right , I told him where to find handles here locally and not to worry about a bad hang , just take it apart , get another haft and start again because it takes time and practice to get it right , don't worry it's how we learn .
Told him to call me if he has any questions , he left with a smile .


----------



## p61 western

lead farmer said:


> That's zackly what I'm thinkin
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


We just might have some hope lol.


----------



## rarefish383

Dan, I do like an Alexander Keith when I can find one. It's been a couple years since one turned up down this way.


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## rarefish383

p61 western said:


> Well maybe you could set a few aside lol.


Will do.


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## dancan

Cantdog from Maine likes the Keiths as well , comeon up , it'll be on me


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## rarefish383

I met a couple brothers from Nova Scotia many years ago. They were looking for parts for a 62 Nova. I had two cars on display at the show so I got them in free and they kept me full of food and beer all weekend. I think one worked at a Toyota dealer in Halifax. I figure I still owe them a couple cold ones. If I ever get up your way I'll trade a Jersey for a Keith.


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## dancan

Any of youse get up here , Keiths on me !
Joe , we might have been neighbors , my old man almost took a job with the DNR in Pa back in the 70's but got got offered a good paying job with Bowater Mersey Paper locally so in Canada I stayed .


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## lead farmer

p61 western said:


> We just might have some hope lol.


I got my eye on one on the bay. [emoji38]

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## p61 western

lead farmer said:


> I got my eye on one on the bay. [emoji38]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Lol there is a decent amount on there right now. Let me know how you do.


----------



## p61 western

rarefish383 said:


> Will do.


When you have one let me know, and we can work out the details in a pm.


----------



## LondonNeil

inspired by the good work going on here I bought a 41/2 Elwell (good vintage English brand) axe on a 29" haft on the 'bay. arrived today , opened the packaging and ....Oh poo. I knew it was well rusted and a bit mushroomed but there is a clear crack right across one side of the eye, top to bottom of the head. Messaged the seller, told him of the crack and asked for a refund and to give him his due, he was very good, very quick reply and instant refund. Phew. So I have a large rusty paper weight...oh and the haft which I could see was a bit damaged is useless, the head has already been jumped on further several times and its got too short to do any further as I was hoping....so I as well as a rusty paperweight I've a bit of firewood. Oh well...back to the 'baywatch (not the one with the Hoff, the otherone)


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> inspired by the good work going on here I bought a 41/2 Elwell (good vintage English brand) axe on a 29" haft on the 'bay. arrived today , opened the packaging and ....Oh poo. I knew it was well rusted and a bit mushroomed but there is a clear crack right across one side of the eye, top to bottom of the head. Messaged the seller, told him of the crack and asked for a refund and to give him his due, he was very good, very quick reply and instant refund. Phew. So I have a large rusty paper weight...oh and the haft which I could see was a bit damaged is useless, the head has already been jumped on further several times and its got too short to do any further as I was hoping....so I as well as a rusty paperweight I've a bit of firewood. Oh well...back to the 'baywatch (not the one with the Hoff, the otherone)


Sorry to hear. If you wanted you could try a pin repair like the one head that I recently refurbed.


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## LondonNeil

don't think it is worth repairing. Although just searching again there's a 4 1/2 elwell on original handle listed at a starting price of £60, and an Elwell 4 at £75 ....but to me those are just really hopeful starting prices, not what they are really worth. Most peopel would rather pick up a SAW/HB/GB at that money....or spend the extra to stretch to one of those. Also the crack, starts at the top and front of the eye but runs backwards and is close to the middle of the eye for half the top to bottom height, so I don't see it as pinable. weldable maybe, but nah... I wouldn't trust it, not to pound stuff with a big head like this. I'll keep looking.


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## svk

Understand. Like you said, you could polish it up and make a nice paperweight.


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## rarefish383

Neil, do you use your heavier axes to drive wedges, or as a wedge? Can't say I never did that as a kid. But now, never a Maul or poll shall ever meet.


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## LondonNeil

i never hit a poll, or hit with a poll anymore. used to drive wedges with the poll of my old roughneck maul but that mushroomed rapidly. i hated that maul and gave it away anyway. No I would have used the elwell for medium/heavy splitting, if it ws any good, but only as it is intended.

when i resort to wedges, the sledge comes with them, and the ear defenders and safety glasses.


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## rarefish383

Yep, I had a piece of steel come off and draw blood once.


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## p61 western

rarefish383 said:


> Yep, I had a piece of steel come off and draw blood once.


Yep same here, and it's no fun at all.


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## svk

No steel flying but I was trying to get every last swing out of my sledge eye maul after the handle was pretty beat up from overstrikes....When it let go mid swing it sailed a good 25 feet into the side of the hill. Stupid youth, I should have switched to the splitting axe when the handle started getting bad. Side story I do not like sledge eyed mauls due to the weakness of such a small eye.


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## fulladirt

Got some handles and just finished up my TT Kelly "Perfect", I might've made a mistake and used a handle that came stained in kind of a walnut color. It has a varnish on it and I'm not real happy with the way it feels in the hand....I could say it feels almost "sticky" and not very smooth. Anyway, I wire wheeled the head and filed down some of the mushrooming but more filing to go yet. Still not sure what I'm gonna do about that big chip out of the cutting edge though,





And here's TT Kelly "Red Warrior" this head got some weight to it at 3.5lbs. I used a Link handle, just sanded it and have been applying coats of BLO. Man do the BLO handles feel great in the hand...I'm starting to understand why it seems to be the preferred handle treatment.









Picked up a Snow and Nealley 24" axe too, wanted to see how they are plus I like it's made in Maine, used to live there. I'm going to let my boys use it.
Is there a name for this?...I went from 0 useable axes to 4.


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## rarefish383

Getting a nice collection there!

Since you guys got me to messing around with these old axes again, I was thinking about getting a pair of Kevlar gloves for use when sharpening. I saw one I kind of liked and it was $60 plus. I was reading the description and it said, this price is for one glove, YIKES. Think I'll just put a file guard one my files for now and be careful. I did see others for as little as $7, Joe.


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## svk

tprepd1 said:


> Got some handles and just finished up my TT Kelly "Perfect", I might've made a mistake and used a handle that came stained in kind of a walnut color. It has a varnish on it and I'm not real happy with the way it feels in the hand....I could say it feels almost "sticky" and not very smooth. Anyway, I wire wheeled the head and filed down some of the mushrooming but more filing to go yet. Still not sure what I'm gonna do about that big chip out of the cutting edge though,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's TT Kelly "Red Warrior" this head got some weight to it at 3.5lbs. I used a Link handle, just sanded it and have been applying coats of BLO. Man do the BLO handles feel great in the hand...I'm starting to understand why it seems to be the preferred handle treatment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picked up a Snow and Nealley 24" axe too, wanted to see how they are plus I like it's made in Maine, used to live there. I'm going to let my boys use it.
> Is there a name for this?...I went from 0 useable axes to 4.


Those look fantastic. 

Regarding the sticky handle. Put it somewhere hot in your house, perhaps in your furnace room and let it sit a few weeks. The varnish should stiffen up and you can either sand it off or use it as is. Or worse case, spokeshave the outer layer off and refinish it with BLO.


----------



## svk

rarefish383 said:


> Getting a nice collection there!
> 
> Since you guys got me to messing around with these old axes again, I was thinking about getting a pair of Kevlar gloves for use when sharpening. I saw one I kind of liked and it was $60 plus. I was reading the description and it said, this price is for one glove, YIKES. Think I'll just put a file guard one my files for now and be careful. I did see others for as little as $7, Joe.


That’s probably a good idea Joe. My dad used to make me wear cut proof gloves when filleting fish. The early ones were woven wire covered in cloth and the later ones were Kevlar.


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## fulladirt

Thank-you gents. And hoping that varnish settles down a little, it's near to the woodstove now, hope for the best I guess.

Can anyone recommend a good handle company? The ones I've been getting don't fill the eye very well. Am I missing something, or should be looking for certain sizes?


----------



## rarefish383

I've looked at several on line, and if you look, they will have the eye size. Sometimes it just says "Boys Ax" or "Double Bit". But somewhere in the description it usually has the exact measurement of the eye hole. I just searched Househandle, and looked under "Cruiser ax". A cruiser is a shorter handle light double. It shows a 2 1/4"x5/8" and a 3/4" X 3" eye. Some times it shows the weight of the head to be used. I had two boys axes and the craftsman was tight on an Ace hardware handle, and the Plumb just slid right over, and they both look pretty close by my eye. I guess some trial and error is in there. I've been breaking axes for 50 years, now you guys got me fixin em, Joe.


----------



## 95custmz

. Went looking for axes today at an antique mall. everything I found seemed to have no markings . Then i found this beauty, wedged with two nails, a tack, and a penny. lol


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## rarefish383

Keep the penny, throw the rest away! Just jokin. But, look how disfigured the eye is! Wow, Joe.


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## 95custmz

The poll was mushroomed, also. Looks like someone used it more as a sledge hammer than an axe.


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## Erik B

95custmz said:


> . Went looking for axes today at an antique mall. everything I found seemed to have no markings . Then i found this beauty, wedged with two nails, a tack, and a penny. lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What is the date on the penny?


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## svk

tprepd1 said:


> Thank-you gents. And hoping that varnish settles down a little, it's near to the woodstove now, hope for the best I guess.
> 
> Can anyone recommend a good handle company? The ones I've been getting don't fill the eye very well. Am I missing something, or should be looking for certain sizes?


As Joe said you need to match the eye size to the respective handle and then some final fitting work may be necessary. 

In regards to brands, I forget which handle co my hardware store used to stock but they had good stuff. They now stock from House Handle Co and they work but the shaping of them leaves something to be desired. 

If anyone is near a Menards and could let us know what brand is stocked there that would be great. Some of the best handles I’ve worked with came from there.


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## Good Feller

svk said:


> As Joe said you need to match the eye size to the respective handle and then some final fitting work may be necessary.
> 
> In regards to brands, I forget which handle co my hardware store used to stock but they had good stuff. They now stock from House Handle Co and they work but the shaping of them leaves something to be desired.
> 
> If anyone is near a Menards and could let us know what brand is stocked there that would be great. Some of the best handles I’ve worked with came from there.


I'm not sure about their rehanging stock but the sticks that come on their pick axes are junk lol.


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## 95custmz

Erik B said:


> What is the date on the penny?



LOL. Didn’t bother to look, as it was buried too deep.


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## fulladirt

I'll checked out House Handles and saw they listed eye size, nice selection too thanks! 
Put my "Red Warrior" into some wood today, scored some 13-16" rounds of maple, still wet/green. And some knotty hunks of cherry I had laying around. The maple wasn't the easiest wood to split, I had to quarter the rounds with my Truper maul then split with the axe. But it did fine and put a smile on my head. I wouldn't mind the handle being longer, the 28" on it felt a little short for splitting.


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## rarefish383

The little throwing ax chops pretty good. This was a boys ax on a hatchet size haft, so it's a little top heavy.


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## derwoodii

i got this axe head on way lets see how it buffs up and what handle i can fit


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## rarefish383

That's a pretty one.


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## svk

I'm almost ready to start putting out want ads for axe heads. I checked an antique store here but they wanted ten bucks for a no name head on a broken handle. No thanks LOL.

Unfortunately the place we are staying in now isn't as conducive for throwing shavings as the one we spent January and February. We'll see what I have time for.


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## LondonNeil

I got a bit of time to work on the head @dancan sent to me. Jeez its a hard steel. If I had any decent files that kept cutting for more than a minute it might have been easier but wow, the files that sharpen my fiskars like its cheese, and do a fair job on my stihl maul, got laughed at by this little thing. Eventually I found something in the drawer that was a bit more capable and I got somewhere. First i had to work on the eye which had this weird constriction and widen again shape. it took a while but it is now much closer to straight and I think I've a chance of hanging it ok. Then a skated a file over the edge for a while...first merely polishing it....but then finding a better file and getting the start of an edge. Time to get a handle in now, and I've found an online source of good ones.
Oh yes, I weighed the head, 724g after my filing. I plan on a 19 inch handle, it comes with the right 2"x3/4" eye size.


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## Lowhog

I was wonder if this monster I found can be reset on its handle? Its a true temper Kelly standard 6.5#er. Mess with it or send it to a new home?


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## rarefish383

Got any doors you want to rip out?


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## lead farmer

Lowhog said:


> I was wonder if this monster I found can be reset on its handle? Its a true temper Kelly standard 6.5#er. Mess with it or send it to a new home?View attachment 638732
> View attachment 638733


Yep, new home. Pm me for addy [emoji38]

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## rarefish383

lead farmer said:


> Yep, new home. Pm me for addy [emoji38]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Better you than me! I try not to lift anything over six pounds, unless it's a growler of beer!


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## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> I was wonder if this monster I found can be reset on its handle? Its a true temper Kelly standard 6.5#er. Mess with it or send it to a new home?View attachment 638732
> View attachment 638733



Handle looks serviceable still, if not, a new haft is an easy task. I've reseated worse before. That's an interesting piece!

I'll just leave this here...


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## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> Handle looks serviceable still, if not, a new haft is an easy task. I've reseated worse before. That's an interesting piece!
> 
> I'll just leave this here...



Thanks for posting that! As obvious as that looks, I never thought of using a firemans ax as a "Come Hither Stick". That's what Dad called a pic-a-roon or hook-a-roon.


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## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> Thanks for posting that! As obvious as that looks, I never thought of using a firemans ax as a "Come Hither Stick". That's what Dad called a pic-a-roon or hook-a-roon.



Survival Sherpa is a great channel, lots of axe related and chopping technique content. Just a good ol' Georgia boy.


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## svk

Lowhog said:


> I was wonder if this monster I found can be reset on its handle? Its a true temper Kelly standard 6.5#er. Mess with it or send it to a new home?View attachment 638732
> View attachment 638733


Just a thought, you could refurb it and donate it to one of your local rural volunteer fire departments. They usually don’t have the healthy budgets that the city departments have and would probably appreciate it.


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## Lowhog

Its a little on the heavy side for a Pickaroon


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## Lowhog

That 


svk said:


> Just a thought, you could refurb it and donate it to one of your local rural volunteer fire departments. They usually don’t have the healthy budgets that the city departments have andvwould probably appreciate it.


I gave that some thought then all of a sudden a picture popped up in my pea brain the axe hanging on a fireman's man cave wall.


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## svk

Lowhog said:


> That
> 
> I gave that some thought then all of a sudden a picture popped up in my pea brain the axe hanging on a fireman's man cave wall.


Could happen! 

I’ve called around to a few places when I have donated stuff in the past. You will find quickly who wants/appreciates donations and who doesn’t!


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## Lowhog

They send me a nice little donation envelope every year. I think a personal check is the best way.


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## svk

If you polished the head and put a real nice oil rubbed handle it might be a cool thing for a fundraiser event as well. 

Not saying you want to go in that direction but just a thought.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> If you polished the head and put a real nice oil rubbed handle it might be a cool thing for a fundraiser event as well.
> 
> Not saying you want to go in that direction but just a thought.



Personally, that'd be hard for me to let go, but still, that's a very cool idea you got there!


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## LondonNeil

grrrrr, out bid on another 2 3/4 lb Elwell head. ebay uk its nuts...no bargain to be had. All the 2 1/4 lb to 2 3/4 lb Elwell axe heads, after postage, go for about £23-25. Add another £15-18 for a decent handle and well...I can get a brand new Hultafors chopping axe (1200g head) for £46.40 after postage. Hell I could get the 1750g hultafors chopper for a fiver less. Why the flip do people pay so much for a vintage head? I'd have thought a modern Hultafors would be a better axe, or as good.


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> grrrrr, out bid on another 2 3/4 lb Elwell head. ebay uk its nuts...no bargain to be had. All the 2 1/4 lb to 2 3/4 lb Elwell axe heads, after postage, go for about £23-25. Add another £15-18 for a decent handle and well...I can get a brand new Hultafors chopping axe (1200g head) for £46.40 after postage. Hell I could get the 1750g hultafors chopper for a fiver less. Why the flip do people pay so much for a vintage head? I'd have thought a modern Hultafors would be a better axe, or as good.



Patience is virtue, you'll get one eventually. Any chance of going to a farm sale outside of the greater London area?


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## LondonNeil

a boot sale maybe. as you say...patience. although a hultafors is looking attractive right now.


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## rarefish383

Patience Grasshopper, all things will come. Are you familiar with the old TV show "Kung Fu"? Grasshopper was the nick name of the Kung Fu student.


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> a boot sale maybe. as you say...patience. although a hultafors is looking attractive right now.



Where else besides Australia can you find an old Elwell? Are they that hard to come by in the UK? I figured that'd be the first place to look. I feel your pain with bidding sites, I only resort to them in desperation...

I'd love to have an old Elwell in my collection, the steel I'm told is of superb quality.


----------



## LondonNeil

oh yes. it was compulsory viewing back when i was a kid in the early late 70s/80s. Oddly I'm just watching karate kid on tv....the reboot though....not as good as the original....'wax on, wax off, wax on, wax off'


----------



## LondonNeil

Oh there's plenty of them... a 2 1/2 lb )give or take) comes up on ebay every couple of days or so, they just all sell at £23-25. Its a popular weight i guess, the 4lb and 6 lb heads go for a bit less.


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> Oh there's plenty of them... a 2 1/2 lb )give or take) comes up on ebay every couple of days or so, they just all sell at £23-25. Its a popular weight i guess, the 4lb and 6 lb heads go for a bit less.



I'm putting my positive energy out there for you, I believe you'll find the one in your desired weight. Seems like a good weight, no wonder they're so dear. I prefer my lighter axes for general work, much easier and nimble to wield.


----------



## Multifaceted

Picked a relatively straight piece of Shagbark with decent grain, not the tightest, but should do for some handle stock. Treated the end grain with BLO for the time being...


----------



## rarefish383




----------



## rarefish383




----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> Picked a relatively straight piece of Shagbark with decent grain, not the tightest, but should do for some handle stock. Treated the end grain with BLO for the time being...


I've got a gallon of Anchor Seal if you want to try some.


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## LondonNeil

I'd have thought you want to split that hickory down into blanks asap. I could be wrong but I thought it is far less likely to crack as it dries if the blanks are smaller, although smaller makes it more likely to warp ...so leave enough material to trim away and leave a straight handle. IIRC SKilcult has a piece on it.


----------



## rarefish383

I'm going to the farm auction this Saturday. I just might see if I can pick up enough Jersey's to make an end stand like that little one above.


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> I've got a gallon of Anchor Seal if you want to try some.



I might take you up on that, not sure how long it'll be until I can cut them down to boards.



LondonNeil said:


> I'd have thought you want to split that hickory down into blanks asap. I could be wrong but I thought it is far less likely to crack as it dries if the blanks are smaller, although smaller makes it more likely to warp ...so leave enough material to trim away and leave a straight handle. IIRC SKilcult has a piece on it.



You're mostly right, but the whole point of sealing of the end grain is to prevent that. I didn't have any lard or grease, so I just used a drying oil. Most woodworkers I know preserve logs of desired wood by sealing the end grain with wax until it's time to have them sawn and then dried.


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> I'm going to the farm auction this Saturday. I just might see if I can pick up enough Jersey's to make an end stand like that little one above.


 
Why Jerseys? Use cheap Chinesium at the very least Rockaway pattern heads....


----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> Why Jerseys? Use cheap Chinesium at the very least Rockaway pattern heads....


Just because every one wants one.


----------



## lead farmer

rarefish383 said:


> Just because every one wants one.


...





Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## lead farmer

Here is a few from today [emoji38]





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----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> Just because every one wants one.



There's a Bubba in every crowd


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## p61 western

lead farmer said:


> ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


^^^^ this lol


----------



## rarefish383

I'll ride by Friday after noon, most everything should be at the sale by then. I'm kind of looking for a Kubota BX series front end loader. Last spring two sold in my price range. One had loader and backhoe, sold for $5250, the other had loader and 60" mower, Sold for $5000. Both looked really nice. Probably never see one go that cheap again.


----------



## rarefish383

Here's a couple from the sale tomorrow. There's a problem though, they have 4 auctioneers going all at once, and I can't be everywhere, and there are two big chainsaws that take priority over the axes. There are half a dozen axes I'd like to get, the Plumb Jersey, the boys ax, the tiny one in the palm of my friends hand. I think the big long maul is cool, but it hurts my back in the picture. There is a nice Collins double I didn't get a pic of, and a no name cruiser. The cruiser is probably in as nice of shape as the one Clarence hung for me, with no nicks in the blade.

















I really like that tiny one.


----------



## LondonNeil

Nice looking Plumb there Rarefish

Praise be the Holy Earth Mother and grower of all good sticks hickory! T'interweb can deliver the very very finest handes to your door, all for errr...think it was £18.60 after postage, for this 19 3/4 inch handle. Saw postie coming down the drive in the snow, met him at the door, unwrapped excitedly and...wow!

It comes dipped in hot LO, and then waxed. the wax isn't thick at all (I wouldn't know about it if i hadn't read the description) so it will take more BLO I'm sure.




Beat that, go on, I dare you.....And runout? errr


No! none at all.

It is probably slightly fat....I probably out to thin it out a bit....but I'm not sure i can bring myself too! I'm going to be pooing my pants trying to get a good hang, especially given the constricting, expanding eye in he head....more filing of that eye I think before we **** this handle up!


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## rarefish383

Thanks Neil, but it's not mine yet. The auction starts at 9 this morning. They have an MS 660 and a Homelite Super 1050 100CC's that are top on my list. The Plumb is in one of the fields where they put all the junk and is the last to go. I should be able to bid on it. All of the other axes are in barns that sell earlier so I might not be able to get to them. This sale is big enough that you need a couple guys to cover the whole thing, and I'm by myself today.

That is a pretty handle, 18-19 inches is what I like for a throwing hatchet or small ax. 

Oh, sorry guys, if I get the Plumb I'll have to keep it, I have a soft spot for Plumbs and I don't have one like it. Yet.


----------



## rarefish383

Check out the scrounging thread for the results of the auction, the only ax I got was the Plumb Jersey. I have to keep this one for my collection, I'll find more for the guys that want them. They seem to be rather common around here. I hurt my back yesterday, don't know how, but I can hardly stand up and it hurts my lower back to pick my left foot up off the ground. I carried three saws out to my truck, then headed for the barn with the axes. I got about half way there and almost fell down, couldn't pick my foot up with out bad pain. So, I sat on a stack of tires for about half an hour. When I got to the barn I missed a pile of about 8 axes, two big doubles, one cruiser(no name), the big long funky mall. I asked a guy standing there if he noticed what they went for and he said they kept adding an ax or two at a time till they got a dollar bid. Oh well.


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## p61 western

rarefish383 said:


> Check out the scrounging thread for the results of the auction, the only ax I got was the Plumb Jersey. I have to keep this one for my collection, I'll find more for the guys that want them. They seem to be rather common around here. I hurt my back yesterday, don't know how, but I can hardly stand up and it hurts my lower back to pick my left foot up off the ground. I carried three saws out to my truck, then headed for the barn with the axes. I got about half way there and almost fell down, couldn't pick my foot up with out bad pain. So, I sat on a stack of tires for about half an hour. When I got to the barn I missed a pile of about 8 axes, two big doubles, one cruiser(no name), the big long funky mall. I asked a guy standing there if he noticed what they went for and he said they kept adding an ax or two at a time till they got a dollar bid. Oh well.


Hope you get to feeling better. Back pain is no fun at all. Glad to hear you got the Jersey you were after, and a few saws. Thank you for keeping a eye out for the Jerseys as well.


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## LondonNeil

Yes Hope its nothing serious on the back and you feel better soon. Shame about the axes but seems you did ok on saws.


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## rarefish383

No problem, I'll find some. Just wish I knew what I did to stress it. It's been cold and windy enough I've been wearing these flannel lined pants I got for Christmas. They are super comfortable, but they have no belt loops and pretty tight stretchy stuff. I think the stretchy stuff was putting pressure on an old injury. I've switched back to sweat shorts and loaded up on the Alieve, hopefully I'll be good to go by Church tomorrow morning.


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## NCPT

I have been so busy with work and getting stuff done around the house that I decided to take a break and do something fun when I got home early yesterday.....first ever axe restoration.

I found a small fiberglass handle axe in a construction dumpster years ago and decided to do something with it since the axe I currently have is a useless design for chopping wood. The axe i found had a broken handle and the head was mushroomed.....looked like someone used it for pounding wedges or used it as a wedge itself. Forgot before pics but here is the handle after I cut it off and the head cleaned up.





Now keep in mind this was my first attempt and I did zero research on this. I basically went on what my cousin had told me since he has done a few from finding old axe heads while metal detecting....he has found some really cool axe heads. I put a shoulder on the handle for the head to rest against, rasped to fit the hang and it's not a great fit lol. I then pounded in the wooden wedge then two metal wedges after I soaked the head with fitted handle in hot water. Then I placed head in vise and straightened the handle to the head while it was bendable. The bend actually set and the axe is now perfectly in line with the handle. I let it cool then added 5min epoxy to the hang to fill the voids.





Like I say, this was my first attempt and now I wish I would have done some research on fitting the hang. The epoxy is rock hard and I've hit it pretty hard on some logs and it is holding. If it lets loose, I'll take the head off and try again....this has been really fun so far. Headed to the shop now to smooth everything up. I'll post more pics later and thanks for looking.


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## NCPT

Got the handle sanded and cleaned up the head.


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## NCPT

The axe head is 2.5lbs I think. Here's a pic of the label for the handle. So far, so good! Split a couple pieces of oak and it's holding tight.


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## svk

Looks great


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## rarefish383

Went to another auction today. Old farm sale, 10 out buildings. First 30 minutes and there were two nice Jersey's with nice handles, I bid to $18 and the next guy got them for $20. Went into another barn and there was a big tin with about a dozen ax, hatchet, and ball peen hammer heads. I bid that to $38 and the same guy got it for $40. Then outside another building there were two more jersey's and he got them too. There were two axes I really wanted, I have never seen anything like them, and somebody out bid me on them. I saw the guy that bought all of the other axes and asked about the two long skinny ones I wanted. He said he didn't see them, or he would have bought them. But, he said, by the description they were mortising axes. Then out side the last building with tools there was a brand new, in the box, no oil in it yet, Biggs and Stratton 675 series engine, the exact model on my wood splitter. I got it for $25. I did buy another carpenters hatchet because it had a leather sheath on it that fits my little Plumb. All in all had a good day, Joe.


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## p61 western

rarefish383 said:


> Went to another auction today. Old farm sale, 10 out buildings. First 30 minutes and there were two nice Jersey's with nice handles, I bid to $18 and the next guy got them for $20. Went into another barn and there was a big tin with about a dozen ax, hatchet, and ball peen hammer heads. I bid that to $38 and the same guy got it for $40. Then outside another building there were two more jersey's and he got them too. There were two axes I really wanted, I have never seen anything like them, and somebody out bid me on them. I saw the guy that bought all of the other axes and asked about the two long skinny ones I wanted. He said he didn't see them, or he would have bought them. But, he said, by the description they were mortising axes. Then out side the last building with tools there was a brand new, in the box, no oil in it yet, Biggs and Stratton 675 series engine, the exact model on my wood splitter. I got it for $25. I did buy another carpenters hatchet because it had a leather sheath on it that fits my little Plumb. All in all had a good day, Joe.


Wow that auction sounded almost like evilbay lol. At least you didn't come home empty handed though.


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## rarefish383

p61 western said:


> Wow that auction sounded almost like evilbay lol. At least you didn't come home empty handed though.


Pretty much. You have to set your price and stick to it. They were all no name, but one was nice. Should have asked the auctioneer to sell that one separate, the other guy might have backed off on just one. But didn't think of that in time.


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## lead farmer

Well I finally found one





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## p61 western

lead farmer said:


> Well I finally found one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Nice score buddy.


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## fulladirt

lead farmer said:


> Well I finally found one



There it is, looks nice! Glad you found yourself one, mind if I ask where you found it?


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## lead farmer

tprepd1 said:


> There it is, looks nice! Glad you found yourself one, mind if I ask where you found it?


One of my buddys knew I was into axes an picked it up for 20 bucks. I was happy 

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## NCPT

Had to test it out....holding tight and what an awesome chopper. Swing it fast with two hands or choke up and use it like a hatchet. Took some damage on my inaccuracy but I smoothed it up and gave the handle a touch more curve.



There's my hatchet restore.....gonna show it when it's done.


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## stihlofadeal

I've rescued a couple axes, so here are my favorites:

I did not know what I had when I found it, until I cleaned it up and realized I had stumbled upon the Forest Services' most coveted axe. The thing was in a collapsed, abandoned barn, buried in the dirt with a splintered handle and mauled eye. Had to grind out busted in section of the eye, and weld it back up. I watched the HAZ and kept it cool enough. Cleaned up and polished up pretty nicely.




Here it is with a newer handle - old one developed a split. Pictured with it are two railway adzes, one from the B&M Railroad in New England (made by Husqvarna actually), the other from somewhere in South Dakota (Unknown mfr, visible & strange touchmark). These both required a fair amount of work, but I had them shaving pine in no time.



Last but not least, I ran across a double-bit True Temper / Kelly Perfect for $20 the other week, and just had to scoop it up. Handle is in serviceable condition, bit needed some minor restoration and sharpening. This one, I did a restoration video on, and you can find that here:



I like old tools, and restoring them to their full glory. Just my bit to add to the thread. Feel free to axe questions. I can handle just about anything. I won't lose my temper. Dare I go on?


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## derwoodii

Well i finally got that nice double blade in my hands dear wife had held it back for my birthday gift oh bless.. 
Its got 100 years of tarnish and i need find a straight shaft big eye handle and i got the learn the black art off how to fit so im testing and honing my craft on old bit of hickory axe wood before i source a proper handle. 

This should make a sweet thowin axe for next years GTG competition 

Q what the best method tools and cleaner to vanquishing tarnish and getting a shine to steel.


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## rarefish383

If you just want to polish it to an almost shiney chrome surface start with an 80 grit flap disc on an angle grinder. That's what I used on my little Plumb throwing ax. Didn't take off too much metal, and next thing you know, I could see my reflexion in it. But, I consider restoring an ax to putting it back in original condition, blued, painted, red, black, whatever. I call my Plumb a refinish, not restored. I Browned it to be different, and like the finish, Joe.


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## dancan

A little too extreme for me lol


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## Ironwolffarmer

stihlofadeal said:


> I've rescued a couple axes, so here are my favorites:
> 
> I did not know what I had when I found it, until I cleaned it up and realized I had stumbled upon the Forest Services' most coveted axe. The thing was in a collapsed, abandoned barn, buried in the dirt with a splintered handle and mauled eye. Had to grind out busted in section of the eye, and weld it back up. I watched the HAZ and kept it cool enough. Cleaned up and polished up pretty nicely.
> 
> View attachment 642434
> View attachment 642435
> 
> Here it is with a newer handle - old one developed a split. Pictured with it are two railway adzes, one from the B&M Railroad in New England (made by Husqvarna actually), the other from somewhere in South Dakota (Unknown mfr, visible & strange touchmark). These both required a fair amount of work, but I had them shaving pine in no time.
> View attachment 642436
> 
> 
> Last but not least, I ran across a double-bit True Temper / Kelly Perfect for $20 the other week, and just had to scoop it up. Handle is in serviceable condition, bit needed some minor restoration and sharpening. This one, I did a restoration video on, and you can find that here:
> 
> 
> 
> I like old tools, and restoring them to their full glory. Just my bit to add to the thread. Feel free to axe questions. I can handle just about anything. I won't lose my temper. Dare I go on?



Some people have said that I can be a pain in the adze.


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## Vibes

Found this at an estate sale. Real heartbreaker that it has that big bite taken out of it. I actually chopped a root out of the ground with it Sunday and it cuts well in this condition. I'll clean it up a little and hopefully a good handle comes along cheap for it. If not I may just make a wall hanger out of it.


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## Vibes

Also got a little Plumb hatchet head. I'm guessing this was from a batch that was sold at Sears, Montgomery Wards, or at a hardware chain. It has that unfinished appearance to it. The nail puller is notched in but was never finished. I showed it next to my personal hatchet. I may just Ebay this because I really don't need any more hatchets.


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## lead farmer

Vibes said:


> Also got a little Plumb hatchet head. I'm guessing this was from a batch that was sold at Sears, Montgomery Wards, or at a hardware chain. It has that unfinished appearance to it. The nail puller is notched in but was never finished. I showed it next to my personal hatchet. I may just Ebay this because I really don't need any more hatchets.View attachment 642662
> View attachment 642663


Oh heck just put a handle in it an put under the truck seat [emoji38]

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## derwoodii

dancan said:


> A little too extreme for me lol





agree a bit beyond what im aiming for, the steel is polishing up nicely with Bosch orbital & fine grit paper & lick of wheel buffer sure a few deep scrapes but it retains that lived a life look ..


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## rarefish383

Vibes said:


> Also got a little Plumb hatchet head. I'm guessing this was from a batch that was sold at Sears, Montgomery Wards, or at a hardware chain. It has that unfinished appearance to it. The nail puller is notched in but was never finished. I showed it next to my personal hatchet. I may just Ebay this because I really don't need any more hatchets.View attachment 642662
> View attachment 642663


I have several of those "carpenters hatchets" I don't really collect them, but people keep giving them to me. A while back some one asked if the deep "V" between the nail puller and the handle served a purpose. Recently my BIL was over, looking at all of my junk. He said when he was roofing they used that deep "V" for cutting Shingles. He said if you notice it does have an edge, so it's not just to make it easy to fit the handle, Joe.


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## dancan

dancan said:


> Here's my first resto for 2018 , my 10$ 3lb Hults Bruks .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The haft is in good shape so I'm gonna clean off the varnish and rehang the head as long as I can get the epoxy wedge out .



I finally got back to the HB



















Originally 36" , once I got the 36" VB Swinger haft set It ended up at 34" .
Now to clean the head and soak the haft in my linseed oil mix .


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## LondonNeil

Very nice Dan, very nice. What weight is it?

Does anybody know, are the modern Hultafors axes of the same quality as older HB branded axes?


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## rarefish383

stihlofadeal said:


> I've rescued a couple axes, so here are my favorites:
> 
> I did not know what I had when I found it, until I cleaned it up and realized I had stumbled upon the Forest Services' most coveted axe. The thing was in a collapsed, abandoned barn, buried in the dirt with a splintered handle and mauled eye. Had to grind out busted in section of the eye, and weld it back up. I watched the HAZ and kept it cool enough. Cleaned up and polished up pretty nicely.
> 
> View attachment 642434
> View attachment 642435
> 
> Here it is with a newer handle - old one developed a split. Pictured with it are two railway adzes, one from the B&M Railroad in New England (made by Husqvarna actually), the other from somewhere in South Dakota (Unknown mfr, visible & strange touchmark). These both required a fair amount of work, but I had them shaving pine in no time.
> View attachment 642436
> 
> 
> Last but not least, I ran across a double-bit True Temper / Kelly Perfect for $20 the other week, and just had to scoop it up. Handle is in serviceable condition, bit needed some minor restoration and sharpening. This one, I did a restoration video on, and you can find that here:
> 
> 
> 
> I like old tools, and restoring them to their full glory. Just my bit to add to the thread. Feel free to axe questions. I can handle just about anything. I won't lose my temper. Dare I go on?



Every time I go past this pic I want to hit the like button again. The one I really like is the single with the two adzes, Joe.


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## dancan

LondonNeil said:


> Very nice Dan, very nice. What weight is it?
> 
> Does anybody know, are the modern Hultafors axes of the same quality as older HB branded axes?



That one is 3lbs Neil .
I wouldn't worry about modern vrs old .


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## LondonNeil

Cheers Dan. Given my continued difficulty in picking up either an Elwell or Brades (decent English makes) or a HB or saw, of 2 1/2 or so lbs for a very sensible amount to restore, I'm looking at a new hultafors agdor 1200g chopping axe. I suspect the head may be ok but they probably save a bit on the handle and handle fit, but I guess I wouldn't mind refitting the handle. I'll try and be patient a little longer though


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## lead farmer

Handle was loose on this small Noland camp axe so to the work bench it went. 3 metal bastid wedges were tough to get out but in the end they gave. Dropped the head about a half inch and put a walnut wedge in for some color. Enjoy [emoji38]























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## lead farmer

Here will be my next project that I'm doing for a friend. I hope he's not in a hurry [emoji38]





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## LondonNeil

Woo whoo, inbound! I finally picked up a nice Elwell 2 3/4 lb axe on ebay. Paid a bit more than i'd have liked but the head looks almost immaculate, handle looks good and is described as good, so as long as there are no hidden flaws that come to light when it arrives then I don't mind. I paid just a pound or so less than I could have got a new hultafors hy10 1200g chopping axe for, but the Elwell will be as good or better. Although the head shouldn't need any work I think it will still class as a restoration...sort of... fairly sure from the photos that the head is loose so I'll be reseating it on the handle. We shall see what its like when it arrives but I suspect I'll be carefully removing the old wedge (might plunge cut it out with the multitool, anybody tried that? I think it might be easier and do less damage to the handle kerf), tidy the handle and drop the head down just a quarter or half an inch then rewedge it. I'll stick an extra coat of BLO on the handle too. Hope the weather warms up, I put a maintenance coat of BLO on my pickaroon last week and its still wet to touch now.


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## rarefish383

Broke the bank on these fellas. Auctioneer said high bid gets choice, and can take as many items he wants at that price. There were rakes, brooms, cant hooks, post hole diggers. The first guy went to $10 and took a post hole digger. Next round got to $9 and that guy said he'd take 4 items, I was so mad I could spit. Then he took two old leaf rakes and two push brooms. A couple more rounds got to $9 dollars and I was sure someone was gonna get at least one or two axes. Next round I had to bid all the way up to $3 dollars, and took all four axes. The one on the left is a Paper Label Collins, with Collins stamped in the steel too. The one on the right says Forged Steel, but I haven't found a makers name or mark yet. The two in the middle are no name, Joe.


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## lead farmer

rarefish383 said:


> Broke the bank on these fellas. Auctioneer said high bid gets choice, and can take as many items he wants at that price. There were rakes, brooms, cant hooks, post hole diggers. The first guy went to $10 and took a post hole digger. Next round got to $9 and that guy said he'd take 4 items, I was so mad I could spit. Then he took two old leaf rakes and two push brooms. A couple more rounds got to $9 dollars and I was sure someone was gonna get at least one or two axes. Next round I had to bid all the way up to $3 dollars, and took all four axes. The one on the left is a Paper Label Collins, with Collins stamped in the steel too. The one on the right says Forged Steel, but I haven't found a makers name or mark yet. The two in the middle are no name, Joe.


An 2 jerseys to boot. Good score buddy

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## rarefish383

Have another auction to go to tomorrow, Joe.


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## rarefish383

Just got in, froze my butt off. Got three more today, two are a little rough, $4 for all three. I also bought a DeWalt 12" mitre saw/chop saw, for $75. When I went to pay up the girl said total $38. I said something was wrong, I paid a lot more for the Mitre saw. She said they clearly put $25 on the ticket, so that's all she could charge me. Feel like I ripped the seller off, but with several auctioneers going, six hours after it sold, there was no way to go back and figure out it the ticket was right or not. Hate to make a gain at someone else's loss. Bad Karma, Joe.


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## rarefish383

This is a close up of one of the ones from yesterday. With the rounded lugs and the steep drop of the heel, I think this looks more like a Rockaway than a Jersey? What do you think, Joe.


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## dancan

I'd agree on the Rockaway call .
Don't worry about bad Karma on the deal , you tried to correct a wrong , it had already been corrected in your favor .


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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> Here will be my next project that I'm doing for a friend. I hope he's not in a hurry [emoji38]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



Nice! What wood are you using for the haft?



LondonNeil said:


> Woo whoo, inbound! I finally picked up a nice Elwell 2 3/4 lb axe on ebay. Paid a bit more than i'd have liked but the head looks almost immaculate, handle looks good and is described as good, so as long as there are no hidden flaws that come to light when it arrives then I don't mind. I paid just a pound or so less than I could have got a new hultafors hy10 1200g chopping axe for, but the Elwell will be as good or better. Although the head shouldn't need any work I think it will still class as a restoration...sort of... fairly sure from the photos that the head is loose so I'll be reseating it on the handle. We shall see what its like when it arrives but I suspect I'll be carefully removing the old wedge (might plunge cut it out with the multitool, anybody tried that? I think it might be easier and do less damage to the handle kerf), tidy the handle and drop the head down just a quarter or half an inch then rewedge it. I'll stick an extra coat of BLO on the handle too. Hope the weather warms up, I put a maintenance coat of BLO on my pickaroon last week and its still wet to touch now.



What, no pictures? Congrats on your score - I knew you'd find one, mate!



rarefish383 said:


> Broke the bank on these fellas. Auctioneer said high bid gets choice, and can take as many items he wants at that price. There were rakes, brooms, cant hooks, post hole diggers. The first guy went to $10 and took a post hole digger. Next round got to $9 and that guy said he'd take 4 items, I was so mad I could spit. Then he took two old leaf rakes and two push brooms. A couple more rounds got to $9 dollars and I was sure someone was gonna get at least one or two axes. Next round I had to bid all the way up to $3 dollars, and took all four axes. The one on the left is a Paper Label Collins, with Collins stamped in the steel too. The one on the right says Forged Steel, but I haven't found a makers name or mark yet. The two in the middle are no name, Joe.



Definitely some quality finds, they ought to clean up well.


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## LondonNeil

Photos to come when it arrives.


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## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> This is a close up of one of the ones from yesterday. With the rounded lugs and the steep drop of the heel, I think this looks more like a Rockaway than a Jersey? What do you think, Joe.



Rockaway is a Jersey, just a variant of the pattern. Rockaway is in NJ. Though, I'd still call this a typical Jersey even if the lugs are round and not pointed. Rockaway have more of an acute angle from the lugs to the heel of the bit. Here is what a typical Rockaway looks like:


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## Multifaceted

Recently scored this USA made Craftsmen 3.5 lb Double Bit Michigan. It was hung pretty well, but the haft was split near the seat of the head, so I had to take it off. What a PITA to remove, only wood wedges too. Exceptionally hung, such a shame the handle was toast. There was a considerable amount of rust, here it is all cleaned up. Still undecided on the finish, will probably brighten it up with the die grinder and do a forced patina.


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## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> Rockaway is a Jersey, just a variant of the pattern. Rockaway is in NJ. Though, I'd still call this a typical Jersey even if the lugs are round and not pointed. Rockaway have more of an acute angle from the lugs to the heel of the bit. Here is what a typical Rockaway looks like:


The heel on mine has more drop than my others, but nothing like yours. Yours looks like the picture on my Kelly Pattern chart, Joe.


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## hseII

rarefish383 said:


> The heel on mine has more drop than my others, but nothing like yours. Yours looks like the picture on my Kelly Pattern chart, Joe.



Have you weighed yours?


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## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> The heel on mine has more drop than my others, but nothing like yours. Yours looks like the picture on my Kelly Pattern chart, Joe.



I dunno, the bit is too wide and poll too large to be a Rockaway variant to me... six to one, half dozen to another...


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## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> I dunno, the bit is too wide and poll too large to be a Rockaway variant to me... six to one, half dozen to another...


After seeing yours I agree with you.


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## rarefish383

hseII said:


> Have you weighed yours?


No, that one is still hung , but I have a 4 pounder and it feels lighter than the 4.

A little bumbed out. The one above, on the right, in the pic with the Orange head, is a Mann, Lewistown PA and the other side says True American. It's been ground back pretty hard and the poll is pretty smashed.

I like that Craftsman, I'll see if I can find the chart with the logos and see if we can date it, Joe.


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Nice! What wood are you using for the haft?
> 
> 
> 
> What, no pictures? Congrats on your score - I knew you'd find one, mate!
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely some quality finds, they ought to clean up well.


Since it's his boyhood axe and probably won't get used I chose a piece of red oak

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## Multifaceted

Off topic (that happens here often, right?), but... First time in a long time today I brewed some beer. Double batches, 5 gallons of Hoppy Saison and 10 gallons of Munich Helles Lager. 15 gallons total. Not really wood cutting, but I did have a fire going in the fire pit and wood stove, and did a little axe restoration in between...


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## rarefish383

My cousin got this little hatchet for me for a buck. I thought it was kind of cute so I paid up. The tack hammer is just for scale. I missed out on two True Temper Scout Hatchets with scabbards. I was hoping to get them for about $10. I bid to $27.50, and the next guy got them for $30, Joe.


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## dancan

Have we seen this one ?


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## rarefish383

Could you see doing that for 10 hours a day?


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## lead farmer

rarefish383 said:


> Could you see doing that for 10 hours a day?


Nope

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## lead farmer

Would any of you close fellows be interested in a charity wood cutting event on Saturday it's up near State College it's with chainsaws of course[emoji38]

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## rarefish383

This Saturday? I commited to picking up a tractor for my neighbor, ratz. Mowing season should be kicking in any day now, so I'll be busy for a few weeks with mulching and all the other pre grass cutting stuff, Joe.


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## lead farmer

This followed me home today






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## lead farmer

.





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## p61 western

lead farmer said:


> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


That's trash and I will dispose of it for you. What a cool score buddy.


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## lead farmer

p61 western said:


> That's trash and I will dispose of it for you. What a cool score buddy.


Get lucky once an awhile [emoji38]

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## p61 western

lead farmer said:


> Get lucky once an awhile [emoji38]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


That will go good with one of those things on your wall.


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## GVS

lead farmer said:


> This followed me home today I have it's little brother.A Winchester hatchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk





lead farmer said:


> This followed me home today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk





lead farmer said:


> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## p61 western

Well I found a Winchester as well.


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## Multifaceted

Removed 5 stumps yesterday and it really did a number on my Council FSS Pulaski, the head started coming loose... Had to pound the head back on and drive the stupid plastic wedge in several times just to finish the job. Decided to remove the head and do a proper hanging myself.

Dropped the head down another 1/4" by taking a rasp to the shoulders, then used a hardwood wedge I made from oak, then another softwood spacer wedge because the piece I had was just shy of the width I needed. Here you can see the puney plastic wedge, it is only about 1/4" wide...






Drove in the wood wedge in far and jammed it in there then secured with metal stepped wedges.


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## LondonNeil

@rarefish383 @dancan 
I had an unexpected delivery yesterday. What's this? i thought as i took the box. Feels heavy. Look at the packaging...international....description says 'Old axe head' ??? I tore it open to find this beauty and am dumbstruck by the wonderful act of kindness by someone I've never met!! 






A True Temper Jersey weighing in at 3lb 10Oz. Its AWESOME, and Joe is even more AWESOME!! thank you very much indeed! Seems Dan was complicit, passing on my address. what a wonderful surprise!

I'm trying to decide ow to restore it, I'm thinking a 32" hickory handle. My source of really quality hafts is showing out of stock on straight ones at that length so that may have made the curved/straight choice for me. the head has been beaten on the poll which is a bit flared, i don't want to remove the True Temper marking so I wont remove all the flare but will tidy it as much as I can. Given that it will therefore always look used I won't over do the resto...quite like the beaten look I think....so although i briefly considered painting it again I think I'll just do the mild poll tidy, tidy a couple of other very small dings, sharpen it and get it hung.....i think!


----------



## lead farmer

LondonNeil said:


> @rarefish383 @dancan
> I had an unexpected delivery yesterday. What's this? i thought as i took the box. Feels heavy. Look at the packaging...international....description says 'Old axe head' ??? I tore it open to find this beauty and am dumbstruck by the wonderful act of kindness by someone I've never met!!
> 
> 
> View attachment 647169
> 
> 
> 
> A True Temper Jersey weighing in at 3lb 10Oz. Its AWESOME, and Joe is even more AWESOME!! thank you very much indeed! Seems Dan was complicit, passing on my address. what a wonderful surprise!
> 
> I'm trying to decide ow to restore it, I'm thinking a 32" hickory handle. My source of really quality hafts is showing out of stock on straight ones at that length so that may have made the curved/straight choice for me. the head has been beaten on the poll which is a bit flared, i don't want to remove the True Temper marking so I wont remove all the flare but will tidy it as much as I can. Given that it will therefore always look used I won't over do the resto...quite like the beaten look I think....so although i briefly considered painting it again I think I'll just do the mild poll tidy, tidy a couple of other very small dings, sharpen it and get it hung.....i think!


That's freaking awesome man. Is it done yet ? We're gonna need pics ASAP [emoji38]

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## dancan

Glad you like it Neil , I had nothing to do with it , nosiree , nada , niet , nuthin , it was all Joe lol
A 32" Smedburg haft would look nice on that head


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## dancan

And get the curved ... That head needs curves


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## rarefish383

Glad you like it, I'd go curved also. Dan, I'm glad you talked me into the axe, I had the Homelite Super 1050 all boxed up. But I can see now he'd be all worried about what bar to put on it.


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## svk

LondonNeil said:


> @rarefish383 @dancan
> I had an unexpected delivery yesterday. What's this? i thought as i took the box. Feels heavy. Look at the packaging...international....description says 'Old axe head' ??? I tore it open to find this beauty and am dumbstruck by the wonderful act of kindness by someone I've never met!!
> 
> 
> View attachment 647169
> 
> 
> 
> A True Temper Jersey weighing in at 3lb 10Oz. Its AWESOME, and Joe is even more AWESOME!! thank you very much indeed! Seems Dan was complicit, passing on my address. what a wonderful surprise!
> 
> I'm trying to decide ow to restore it, I'm thinking a 32" hickory handle. My source of really quality hafts is showing out of stock on straight ones at that length so that may have made the curved/straight choice for me. the head has been beaten on the poll which is a bit flared, i don't want to remove the True Temper marking so I wont remove all the flare but will tidy it as much as I can. Given that it will therefore always look used I won't over do the resto...quite like the beaten look I think....so although i briefly considered painting it again I think I'll just do the mild poll tidy, tidy a couple of other very small dings, sharpen it and get it hung.....i think!


Awesome!


----------



## dancan

rarefish383 said:


> Glad you like it, I'd go curved also. Dan, I'm glad you talked me into the axe, I had the Homelite Super 1050 all boxed up. But I can see now he'd be all worried about what bar to put on it.



And about that old Redlight 066 , I'm pretty sure the conundrum over the bar and chain dilemma could have possibly been a stroke issue so that ax call was polly the best choice of all .
Maybe next time ...


----------



## lead farmer

dancan said:


> And about that old Redlight 066 , I'm pretty sure the conundrum over the bar and chain dilemma could have possibly been a stroke issue so that ax call was polly the best choice of all .
> Maybe next time ...


Now wait a minute. Who has a red eye ?

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## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> @rarefish383 @dancan
> I had an unexpected delivery yesterday. What's this? i thought as i took the box. Feels heavy. Look at the packaging...international....description says 'Old axe head' ??? I tore it open to find this beauty and am dumbstruck by the wonderful act of kindness by someone I've never met!!
> 
> 
> View attachment 647169
> 
> 
> 
> A True Temper Jersey weighing in at 3lb 10Oz. Its AWESOME, and Joe is even more AWESOME!! thank you very much indeed! Seems Dan was complicit, passing on my address. what a wonderful surprise!
> 
> I'm trying to decide ow to restore it, I'm thinking a 32" hickory handle. My source of really quality hafts is showing out of stock on straight ones at that length so that may have made the curved/straight choice for me. the head has been beaten on the poll which is a bit flared, i don't want to remove the True Temper marking so I wont remove all the flare but will tidy it as much as I can. Given that it will therefore always look used I won't over do the resto...quite like the beaten look I think....so although i briefly considered painting it again I think I'll just do the mild poll tidy, tidy a couple of other very small dings, sharpen it and get it hung.....i think!



Nice, and what a guy Joe is! That ought to clean up nice, been grinded on a bit (that means it was used) but still looks serviceable. If a straight shaft is all you can get, I don't think it'll be an issue for chopping. My Kelly Perfect 3.5# Jersey with cheek bevels is hung on a 36" straight shaft and I love it.


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## LondonNeil

Spent half hour or more with the file and the TrueTemper. Tidied 2 or 3 minor dinks, took the worst of the mushrooming off, well....the sharp edges that were forming, and got a half decent edge back. If the makers mark wasn't at the poll I'd take more off (and on the grinder, it is fairly well deformed!) but I don't want to lose the mark so this is where I'm stopping on the poll. Quite pleased with the cutting edge, that came back quite quickly. If you look closely on the before photo it has several major dings/chips but they mostly came out. The toe and heel both have a bit of remaining damage though...think i'll leave it....getting them out would require a lot of material to be removed. The edge will get a final tickle once the head is hung, but its not far off.


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## LondonNeil

i forgot to say, i also started hanging the head @dancan sent me. slow i know...very slow! in my defence i want to try etching/blacking it with oak chips since i like how my maul and fiskars has blackened as ive split oak a lot recently, i just need to do some bucking and gather the chips. anyway....just found this though from buckin' 

that is it! Mrs Buckin's hatchet is it! notice how much epoxy? and no kerf/wedge? takealook at about 4:15 how bad the fit is front and back (he comments on it later) thats because the eye constricts and expands. that is why i spent a while filing the eye straight. my fit wont need extra bits of wood like Buckin's,ha ha!


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## dancan

The HB's that I've rehafted that had the epoxy were too short on the eye to jump down and do that with so I had to replace the handles .


----------



## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> i forgot to say, i also started hanging the head @dancan sent me. slow i know...very slow! in my defence i want to try etching/blacking it with oak chips since i like how my maul and fiskars has blackened as ive split oak a lot recently, i just need to do some bucking and gather the chips. anyway....just found this though from buckin'
> 
> that is it! Mrs Buckin's hatchet is it! notice how much epoxy? and no kerf/wedge? takealook at about 4:15 how bad the fit is front and back (he comments on it later) thats because the eye constricts and expands. that is why i spent a while filing the eye straight. my fit wont need extra bits of wood like Buckin's,ha ha!



That third pic looks nice and the edge is looking really nice. Good work.


----------



## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> Spent half hour or more with the file and the TrueTemper. Tidied 2 or 3 minor dinks, took the worst of the mushrooming off, well....the sharp edges that were forming, and got a half decent edge back. If the makers mark wasn't at the poll I'd take more off (and on the grinder, it is fairly well deformed!) but I don't want to lose the mark so this is where I'm stopping on the poll. Quite pleased with the cutting edge, that came back quite quickly. If you look closely on the before photo it has several major dings/chips but they mostly came out. The toe and heel both have a bit of remaining damage though...think i'll leave it....getting them out would require a lot of material to be removed. The edge will get a final tickle once the head is hung, but its not far off.
> 
> View attachment 647476
> View attachment 647477
> View attachment 647478


Oops, I quoted the wrong picture. So, I repeat, good work.


----------



## Marine5068

LondonNeil said:


> @rarefish383 @dancan
> I had an unexpected delivery yesterday. What's this? i thought as i took the box. Feels heavy. Look at the packaging...international....description says 'Old axe head' ??? I tore it open to find this beauty and am dumbstruck by the wonderful act of kindness by someone I've never met!!
> 
> 
> View attachment 647169
> 
> 
> 
> A True Temper Jersey weighing in at 3lb 10Oz. Its AWESOME, and Joe is even more AWESOME!! thank you very much indeed! Seems Dan was complicit, passing on my address. what a wonderful surprise!
> 
> I'm trying to decide ow to restore it, I'm thinking a 32" hickory handle. My source of really quality hafts is showing out of stock on straight ones at that length so that may have made the curved/straight choice for me. the head has been beaten on the poll which is a bit flared, i don't want to remove the True Temper marking so I wont remove all the flare but will tidy it as much as I can. Given that it will therefore always look used I won't over do the resto...quite like the beaten look I think....so although i briefly considered painting it again I think I'll just do the mild poll tidy, tidy a couple of other very small dings, sharpen it and get it hung.....i think!


WOW. That's so awesome Joe.
Nice project and a real cool axe.
We are a bunch of nice guys here that's for sure.
I just wish we all lived close enough to talk wood, tools, times and hoist a beer together on weekends.


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## LondonNeil

Okay while watching the kids in the garden and sunshine (watching through the workshop window) I managed a bit more filing with the bastard file and have got the other wonderful project, the Scandi hatchet/small camping axe that Dan sent me, ready to hang. This one is identical to the one Buckin' rehangs for his wife in that vid I posted a few days ago

I can't remember if I ever posted this, so, here is the head and the remnants of the handle. The thickness of epoxy is clear, and gives a good idea of just how much the eye in the head constricted and expanded, and the taper on the handle to fit through the constriction! No chance of wedging a handle and getting a good fit without packng around it (as Buckin' found)





Well I spent an age with the files....the head steel is hard! its fairly hard back at the eye although my files did cut there (unlike the blade where I needed to borrow some much better quality files from my dad) but it was slow going. I finally got the eye fairly straight, good enough i think to wedge. I concentrated on removing the constriction from the front and rear of the eye, assuming the wedge will expand the haft sideways and take up the gap side to side ok (fingers crossed). So after some work on the Smedberg quality Hickory stick....



It not wedged yet but the fit is tight so I could swing it about and get a feel for it. I like it, happy with the chocie of handle which is 500mm or 19 3/4"

Got a nice shoulder formed that it seats to and a fair fit all round....not perfect, there are a couple of gaps but they aren't big.





I'm not sure if the eye is slightly off-centre or the handle a bit off....think it must be the eye. I worked slowly, fitting, checking for gaps and tight spots, rasping and refitting, checking for a well aligned head and so on. I took a fair bit more off one side of the handle than the other as you can see from the off centre fit



but doing that I managed to get the blade almost straight/aligned (it started off twisted well over to the right as you looked toward the bottom of the handle, now...only slightly off)


and here is the fit at the top. The remaining constriction means there is some gap, but hopefully the wedges will take that out.



As you can see the kerf is closed up. I suspect when i knock the head off I'll see tight spot marks that equate to about half way through the eye where the constriction was and slightly remains. I'm hoping if I take a little more out just there the kerf will open a little. I guess i need a bit of gap to drive the wedge into! I'll then wipe BLO over the bit of handle to go inside the head, whack the head on and pound a wooden wedge in with a smear of PVA glue, then after trimming I'll drive one or maybe 2 small metal wedges cross ways too. That needs to wait though....I want to etch/blacken the head first. I plan to leave it in a tea and oak chip stew for a week and hope!


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## dancan

You have a bit more work to do Neil , get the head down another 1/2" and it'll be a better fit at the top .


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## rarefish383

Lookin good! I want to see a video of you throwing it. A small axe like that's not worth anything if you can't throw it and defend yourself.


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## LondonNeil

dancan said:


> You have a bit more work to do Neil , get the head down another 1/2" and it'll be a better fit at the top .


you think? handle is currently flush to the top at the front, just poking above the eye at the back. I could drop it lower for sure, and may do that now you've suggested...hmm, yes maybe


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## dancan

LondonNeil said:


> you think? handle is currently flush to the top at the front, just poking above the eye at the back. I could drop it lower for sure, and may do that now you've suggested...hmm, yes maybe



I'm pretty sure , just remember to work the bottom side of the axe head and make sure you get the handle tapered back so it's a nice tapered fit and no abrupt transition where the handle meets the head .
Yes , working with dry hickory sucks , a cheap belt sander and 40 grit is your friend lol
I'm glad there was epoxy in there , that , the metric weight and the hint of blue paint makes me pretty sure it's a Scandi .
Enjoy !


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## LondonNeil

Agreed! its a slow process! Thanks for the reminder, yes I need to smooth the transition more.

So long as I get it hung right then it'll be a lovely little axe mate, and I am gong to enjoy it very VERY much, thank you!


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## lead farmer

rarefish383 said:


> Lookin good! I want to see a video of you throwing it. A small axe like that's not worth anything if you can't throw it and defend yourself.


That's what bullets are for [emoji38]

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## lead farmer

LondonNeil said:


> you think? handle is currently flush to the top at the front, just poking above the eye at the back. I could drop it lower for sure, and may do that now you've suggested...hmm, yes maybe


I like a proud handle [emoji38]

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## Marine5068

LondonNeil said:


> Agreed! its a slow process! Thanks for the reminder, yes I need to smooth the transition more.
> 
> So long as I get it hung right then it'll be a lovely little axe mate, and I am gong to enjoy it very VERY much, thank you!


Nice work Neil. Take your time.
Will you use epoxy after to seal the top gaps and wedges or not bother? None of mine have epoxy.
I have a little axe similar for my Fireside Buddy axe for splitting kindling. It stays near my woodstove.


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## LondonNeil

I hope not to need epoxy or any filler bits of wood. I've now got it down another 1/2" and can tell the constriction inside the eye wasn't completely removed but I hope the wedges will hold it tight.
After knocking the head off again and marking a line I filed off the wood to largely match what i had already removed and whcked the head on again and....it wouldn't go any further hmm. knocked it off and used a straight edge all around the shaped end of the haft and it showed virtually no high spots, odd. Then had an idea and cut the kerf half inch deeper and tried again. One, two smacks and the head slid on the extra half inch. On looking I had a small gap around much of the bottom of the eye despite the head being 
pretty darn tight. Its tight in the constriction and i'd taken a teeny bit too much off lower down leaving a small gap. Similarly there is an unavoidable gap at the top of the eye. Anyway I knocked the head off, smoothed the transition, sanded it smooth and here is how the handle looks







i then smacked the head on and gave it one extra hard whack taking it 1/8" lower





As you can see it now looks very snug all around the base o the eye, and I have curl round a good bit, yay! however I know there is a small void all around just a bit up from the bottom.
The top looks like this


Hmm, poor photo, its not quite as good as that looks, the gap is the same as before i jumped the head on further.
Anyway, Its pretty striaght





I'll think on it some more but as I've typed this I've had a thought....I may put a smear of epoxy around the haft, on the bit that would disappear into the bottom of the eye, before I give it the last whacks into the head, and similarly i may then try and smear some epoxy into the gap around the top before I then drive the wedge in, although I'm fairly confident given how it looks at the bottom of the eye and that the wedge will expand the haft at the top, that it'll be a very secure fit....well....hopeful at least! So, for now the head is knocked off again (that large lump of white plastic in the last photo is very handy for driving handles in, and knocking heads off), the top of the haft will get a good wipe or 3 with BLO, in fact the whole haft will, and as soon as I get some chainsaw time and make some oak chips I'll get the head in a bit of oak chip broth and hopefully turn the slight surface rust to a nice black coating. Until then this project is done. I'll be back on the Jersey soon if I get time between watching over the 8 month old and the 2.5 year old girls I have keeping me busy!


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## dancan

Much nicer fit now !!!!
I wouldn't worry about epoxy , just drive a nice wedge in there , set a metal wedge if you want and if you want soak the head in a mix of BLO thinned out with turpentine for a week or so , then treat the haft as you like .


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## Marine5068

Looks great. Fantastic work actually.
I don't think I would bother with any epoxy either.
You put a lot of time and effort into that fitment. 
Make sure it gets treated good and used for the most honest trade of keeping your Family warm and cozy.
Post more pics when it's finished.


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## Good Feller

I've missed sooo much. Has anyone on here heard of a temp-r-ite double bit axe. I googled it but didn't find anything.


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## rarefish383

Good Feller said:


> I've missed sooo much. Has anyone on here heard of a temp-r-ite double bit axe. I googled it but didn't find anything.


I did see that on an ax at a sale, there were 3 auctioneers going at the same time, so I missed the ax. I think the one I saw was on a single bit.


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## Good Feller

rarefish383 said:


> I did see that on an ax at a sale, there were 3 auctioneers going at the same time, so I missed the ax. I think the one I saw was on a single bit.


Go figure, I can't remember what I did with it. But I got this little Swedish hatchet on a garage sale Saturday


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## Good Feller

Found that temp-r-ite.


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## rarefish383

Good Feller said:


> Found that temp-r-ite.


They both look like keepers, but I'm especially partial to doubles.


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## LondonNeil

Good Feller said:


> I got this little Swedish hatchet on a garage sale Saturday



700gram head, epoxy fit by any chance? It looks familiar,


----------



## Good Feller

rarefish383 said:


> They both look like keepers, but I'm especially partial to doubles.


Me too.


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## Good Feller

LondonNeil said:


> 700gram head, epoxy fit by any chance? It looks familiar,


It is epoxy fit. I believe it's 1 1/4lbs. Says made in Sweden. Just thought it'd be a good camping hatchet.


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## dancan

From the reading I've done and all the ones I've come across , "Made in Sweden" is usually 1 of these makers , Hults Bruk , Wetterlings or Gransfors Bruk .
A nice hatchet and if you look at replacement cost for a new one I'd say these are excellent value even if you get a premium haft for it .


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## Good Feller

dancan said:


> From the reading I've done and all the ones I've come across , "Made in Sweden" is usually 1 of these makers , Hults Bruk , Wetterlings or Gransfors Bruk .
> A nice hatchet and if you look at replacement cost for a new one I'd say these are excellent value even if you get a premium haft for it .


I fell in love at first sight. Everything seems to be in good working order aside from honing an edge.


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## Good Feller

So I tried learning more about that temp-r-ite double bit axe head, to no avail. If anyone knows anything, I'd appreciate it.


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## Legion Prime

I found a hatchet head in a drawer out in the garage last week along with a shingling hatchet with a messed up handle and 15 nails in the eye. I ordered some handles from House Handles that showed up friday and spent the weekend working on them. About 2 days were spent thinning the hatchet handle, the head only had a little mushrooming to take down. Yesterday I cut out some wedges and this is what I managed.





Today I finished up the shingling hatchet I got an octogonal handle for, just to try one out. This one I think the handle is tilted a bit forward on the handle and I had to put it way down on the shoulder to get the head to cover the kerf but I got it finished.


----------



## rarefish383

Legion Prime said:


> I found a hatchet head in a drawer out in the garage last week along with a shingling hatchet with a messed up handle and 15 nails in the eye. I ordered some handles from House Handles that showed up friday and spent the weekend working on them. About 2 days were spent thinning the hatchet handle, the head only had a little mushrooming to take down. Yesterday I cut out some wedges and this is what I managed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Today I finished up the shingling hatchet I got an octogonal handle for, just to try one out. This one I think the handle is tilted a bit forward on the handle and I had to put it way down on the shoulder to get the head to cover the kerf but I got it finished.


Welcome to the site, and stick around. Nice work on both. I like the hatchet and the color of the handle. Actually, I really like the blonde color with the touch of brown on the shingling hatchet too.


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## al-k

Got this at work the other day, they through it in scrap metal.


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## Vibes

rarefish383 said:


> Broke the bank on these fellas. Auctioneer said high bid gets choice, and can take as many items he wants at that price. There were rakes, brooms, cant hooks, post hole diggers. The first guy went to $10 and took a post hole digger. Next round got to $9 and that guy said he'd take 4 items, I was so mad I could spit. Then he took two old leaf rakes and two push brooms. A couple more rounds got to $9 dollars and I was sure someone was gonna get at least one or two axes. Next round I had to bid all the way up to $3 dollars, and took all four axes. The one on the left is a Paper Label Collins, with Collins stamped in the steel too. The one on the right says Forged Steel, but I haven't found a makers name or mark yet. The two in the middle are no name, Joe.


The thrill of auctions.


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## svk

Been doing a lot of cleaning in the garage and sheds, finally found something worth writing about.


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## rarefish383

Looks like a keeper.


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## Toyman

This thread has fueled my OCD. I had a fiberglass axe that I got for an xmas gift years ago that spent more time on the woodpile outside than in. The epoxy finally gave up and from there I've acquired 2 other vintage axes, 2 vintage hatchets, and bought a Hults Bruk Tarnaby. The original axe is cleaned up and sharpened awaiting a new handle. These are my first works, but here's some pics of what I've done.

True Temper Flint Edge




Cleaned up sharpened rehung and new sheath


----------



## Toyman

Here's an old craftsman axe (rehung) I got from my wifes grandfather along with the sheath that's still in progress:





And a couple of hatchets I haven't done anything with. These were my grandfather's. He was a shoemaker and passed in 1972.


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## svk

Seeing that sheath reminds me: what do you guys do to recondition leather sheaths? I found a couple in the shed that are very dry and need some attention.


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## LondonNeil

Saddle soap, hide food and such like are the best products for maintaining and restoring any leather, they are a mix of lanolin, beeswax and natural oils usually. Dubbin is also good, it's usually used on shoes and boots to keep supple and waterproof. I believe mink oil is supposed to be good for shoes, never tried though. I use Dubbin on shoes (plus regular wax polish) and hide food on jackets. If the leather is really dry I'd go for an oil, then I've of the waxy products after.


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## LondonNeil

That double looks nice Steve. I don't know the make, but then I didn't know any of the quality us brands until I started reading here!

Watching the latest YouTube video from Buckin' last night, he hits the top of his head while swinging a double! I suggest short handles (it was a 28") and doubles is a recipe for trouble!


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## svk

It’s an Old Timer with 33 stamped on the other side. 

Good thinking on the Mink oil. I think I have some of that in the cupboard.


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## LondonNeil

If you ever buy expensive shoes mink oil is THE thing (and regular wax polish). First time I heard it I thought it was snake oil, who new, mink oil really is a real thing!


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## rarefish383

I paid about 90 bucks on a pair of Shimano Deck shoes, think the Mink Oil will keep them shiny?


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## LondonNeil

dunno about shiny, but it will keep them supple, stop them from cracking and do a job of waterproofing


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## LondonNeil

ok gents, What are your views of these 2 handles? They arrived today, both 32" Smedberg hickory, one to hang the lovely TrueTemper Kelly Joe sent me, the other for my brother to replace the broken handle on his splitting axe.





grain orientation is great in both and neither rn out much (right hand one seems to run out a teenie bit, and then run back in, as if the tree grew bent a wee bit). However the colour difference is marked, if one handle had portions of the 2 colours I'd be sure i had heart wood/sap wood. Also looking at the top of the right hand haft the grain seems to curve a bit suggesting it ws near the centre of the tree, and lastly the right hand one is noticeably heavier. Am I mistaken? maybe the right hand one is heavier because its grain i tighter and its actually the better handle, but I'm a little worried the right handle is 100% heart wood. Anyone care to ease my worries or confirm i need to send one back?


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## dancan

Neil , I'd run with them and not think twice , I've used worse .


----------



## dancan

And I'd use the darker one on that True Temper that I knew nothing about that Joe sent you , it has more character and will look nice finished , shave it down a bit with a knife like Skilcult does to get rid of the Smegbergs logo and it'll be a winner


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## svk

So these were really dry and had some mildew on them as well. I scrubbed them down with water and a scrub brush and they look good (or like leather anyhow). After they dry I’ll apply mink oil as I found two tubs in the cupboard. That stuff lasts a long time as my dad bought it and he’s been gone for 18 years.


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## LondonNeil

I agree Dan, the darker one is more character full. I remembered these handles are treated with hot blo and then wax so that can change the colour of some pieces, hopefully it's that and not heart wood. These are supposedly high quality handles so I'd bloomin' hope it's not heart wood.
Think they do need a little shave as they are a bit fat. Hope the cheap spoke shave I bought works ok and doesn't dig in.


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## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> dunno about shiny, but it will keep them supple, stop them from cracking and do a job of waterproofing


Just pullin your leg Neil, the deck shoes are all rubber.


----------



## p61 western

rarefish383 said:


> Just pullin your leg Neil, the deck shoes are all rubber.


Lol some Armer All and your all set.


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## LondonNeil

Rubber still needs treatment, like any synthetic, UV light will fade the dyes and, along with time, remove the modifiers from the plastic making it hard and brittle. I use autoglym bumper care on my cars rubber seals, gummipfledge (not sure on the spelling) is always well thought of by car detailers...
Never heard them use mink oil


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## svk

Post scrub. Going to give them a little more time to dry out. One needs a new snap


----------



## GVS

LondonNeil said:


> Rubber still needs treatment, like any synthetic, UV light will fade the dyes and, along with time, remove the modifiers from the plastic making it hard and brittle. I use autoglym bumper care on my cars rubber seals, gummipfledge (not sure on the spelling) is always well thought of by car detailers...
> Never heard them use mink oil


I've used mink oil a few times(very few).I'm not all that impressed.I don't think it hurts anything but it doesn't help all that much either.I've found the best oil to revive beat up leather is neatsfoot oil.It won't water proof leather but about the only thing that will is a grease like snow proof or boot dressing and it's only temporary.


----------



## svk

I have the first coat of mink oil on the sheaths. That leather was real dry so I’d expect it will take a few coats. 

My dad used mink oil religiously on his boots. In the age of Gore-Tex I’ve found that the high tech membranes will fail long before leather boots will wear out so I just buy a new pair of boots every few years.


----------



## LondonNeil

I agree. It's the same with coats, gortex and the other breathable waterproof systems are fabulous when new, but even when cared for correctly they seem to fail after a few years.


----------



## Marine5068

Picked this up for $3 at a yard sale recently.
It needs new wedges (loose handle), cleaned up and leather sheath treated (leather is stiff).
I'll use it for kindling near the woodstove.


----------



## kevin j

p61 western said:


> Lol some Armer All and your all set.




Test the ArmorAll first. It can make things slippery. 
Used it on a motorcycle seat long ago. Looked gorgeous, restored color, etc. First time I got on it I about slid off the other side. NO friction and connection for control of body english. I can’t remember how I got it off, took many different products until something worked. I guess that is a testatment to its durability though.


----------



## Marine5068

kevin j said:


> Test the ArmorAll first. It can make things slippery.
> Used it on a motorcycle seat long ago. Looked gorgeous, restored color, etc. First time I got on it I about slid off the other side. NO friction and connection for control of body english. I can’t remember how I got it off, took many different products until something worked. I guess that is a testatment to its durability though.


I did the same with ArmorAll on my motorcycle seat and same thing.
Just about fell off for a bit until it weared away....lol.


----------



## svk

Lol we did the same to leather steering wheel. Couldn’t hardly grip the thing lol!


----------



## svk

About a year ago I bought a handle based on eye dimensions without paying attention to the head size. This boys axe is ridiculously out of balance on a hatchet handle so I’ll rehang it right on a regular boys axe handle this week.


----------



## lead farmer

Marine5068 said:


> Picked this up for $3 at a yard sale recently.
> It needs new wedges (loose handle), cleaned up and leather sheath treated (leather is stiff).
> I'll use it for kindling near the woodstove.
> 
> View attachment 649911
> View attachment 649912
> View attachment 649913


That is beautiful and you belong in the you suck thread....dam what a deal.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## dancan

Marine5068 said:


> Picked this up for $3 at a yard sale recently.
> It needs new wedges (loose handle), cleaned up and leather sheath treated (leather is stiff).
> I'll use it for kindling near the woodstove.
> 
> View attachment 649911
> View attachment 649912
> View attachment 649913



Nah , don't bother cleaning or reseting the head , just send it over to me and I'll double your money plus send you a banana box of finely chopped kindling .


----------



## svk

I stopped by the local fleet supply and they significantly reduced their stock of replacement handles. For axes they now only stock standard eye and DBA, 36” handles. Nothing for boys axes or hatchets.


----------



## derwoodii

this ones a bit big for me


----------



## dancan

Now that's an Ax !


----------



## derwoodii

dancan said:


> Now that's an Ax !




put this place on your holiday list longley international hotel tasmania

https://www.facebook.com/longleyinternational/


----------



## p61 western

derwoodii said:


> put this place on your holiday list longley international hotel tasmania
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/longleyinternational/
> 
> View attachment 650437


Very cool pic you got. Will definitely have to look the place up. Thank you for sharing.


----------



## svk

Found this while cleaning the pole building today. It’s pretty heavy but with the pointed tip it’s hard to judge the exact weight. Looks to be the same size poll as my 16#


----------



## LondonNeil

having finally got the saw out for the first time in 6 months (yes, i know, [email protected] in danger of having to forfeit my scroungers card again!) I got to do this.



Bit of an experiment this. One bucket of lovely smelling English oak chips/noodles, 2 axe heads (buried), added some water to dampen and its now stored away....we will see what has happened in a week. I'm hoping for a nice blackening from the tannic acids, but who knows.


----------



## Marine5068

svk said:


> Found this while cleaning the pole building today. It’s pretty heavy but with the pointed tip it’s hard to judge the exact weight. Looks to be the same size poll as my 16#
> 
> View attachment 650468


Looks like an Adze


----------



## hseII

dancan said:


> soak the head in a mix of BLO thinned out with turpentine for a week or so.



I haven’t done this but I will from now on. 

Thank You.


----------



## hseII

Legion Prime said:


> I found a hatchet head in a drawer out in the garage last week along with a shingling hatchet with a messed up handle and 15 nails in the eye. I ordered some handles from House Handles that showed up friday and spent the weekend working on them. About 2 days were spent thinning the hatchet handle, the head only had a little mushrooming to take down. Yesterday I cut out some wedges and this is what I managed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Today I finished up the shingling hatchet I got an octogonal handle for, just to try one out. This one I think the handle is tilted a bit forward on the handle and I had to put it way down on the shoulder to get the head to cover the kerf but I got it finished.



That shingling Hatchet, (or Carpenter’s Axe as Vaughn & Estwing Call Them), Sure is Nice.


----------



## svk

Marine5068 said:


> Looks like an Adze


I thought and adze had a long cutting edge? Maybe regional terminology is different.


----------



## Jackbnimble

Sharpening ax heads/adzes, etc usually involves massive amounts of red liquid pouring from the stubs of what were once upon a time my fingers. If anyone would like a lesson or three in what not to do to sharpen anything, I'm very reasonably priced and The world's leading expert.


----------



## ray benson

svk said:


> Found this while cleaning the pole building today. It’s pretty heavy but with the pointed tip it’s hard to judge the exact weight. Looks to be the same size poll as my 16#
> 
> View attachment 650468


Cross Pein Sledge hammer
https://picclick.com/12lb-Cross-Peen-Sledge-Hammer-Head-Vintage-232727198316.html


----------



## svk

Hey guys. I have an old adze and broad axe that I have never used and probably never will. Anyone interested for a reasonable price? Just looking to clean out the shed a bit more.


----------



## svk

I’m really liking this Ospho stuff. May need to get more.


----------



## p61 western

svk said:


> I’m really liking this Ospho stuff. May need to get more.
> 
> View attachment 651451
> 
> 
> View attachment 651449
> 
> 
> View attachment 651450


Wow that did a great job. Do you have more info on it?


----------



## svk

I have two different brands of it but I think I threw the one bottle away. Let me check.


----------



## svk

This is the stuff. It’s a dark green color.


----------



## p61 western

svk said:


> This is the stuff. It’s a dark green color.
> 
> View attachment 651464


Was it faster than white vinegar? Thank you for the info.


----------



## svk

p61 western said:


> Was it faster than white vinegar? Thank you for the info.


Yes very much faster and the stuff really falls away. And it dries without rusting.


----------



## rarefish383

svk said:


> Yes very much faster and the stuff really falls away. And it dries without rusting.


I'm still using the same quart bottle of Evaporust that I did your chain in. I only did about half the chain, it was so stiff I couldn't fold it up to fit in the can I had. I've done several ax heads and a couple more chains. Let it sit overnight and it's done. It leaves a black dusty layer. A brass brush will knock it off an ax head in less than 1 minute. I wonder if they are similar components with different names?


----------



## svk

Not sure. This stuff dries hard and there’s no residue on the metal, it’s all in the bottom of the coffee can. I believe this is quite a bit stronger than the other stuff I’ve used. 

I did the lightly rusted shoes first, then the head, and now I have some very rusty horseshoes we found at the end of a portage in there.


----------



## p61 western

Here is one I did with just vinegar. Unfortunately I have been to busy lately to work on axes.


----------



## svk

If you google Ospho theres lots of info on it. At $49.99 per gallon msrp it’s not cheap. Had I known it was that expensive I wouldn’t have wasted a half gallon on horseshoes lol. This stuff has been in my shed for over 15 years though and sometimes chemicals lose their potency when repeatedly going through freezing and thawing cycles. Not this though.


----------



## LondonNeil

I suspect the ospho is mainly phosphoric acid, most commercial rust removers are I think.

this...this is cheap. but seems to be working for staining my heads (although they had hardly any rust on them, just the lightest surface rust)



Been going 5 days, although i checked it mid week and realised it was only working where the chips touched the metal and were wet, and the bucket was merely damp, so i then added lots more water and it seems to have helped. The heads/black liquid has a lovely metallic metalworkshopy smell they are back in for now but will come out sunday probably, then we will dry and wipe with BLO. if the staining on my fingers is anything to go by, the black stain might be durable-ish


----------



## rarefish383

p61 western said:


> Here is one I did with just vinegar. Unfortunately I have been to busy lately to work on axes.View attachment 651514
> View attachment 651515


I really like the logo on that one.


----------



## p61 western

rarefish383 said:


> I really like the logo on that one.


I was pretty surprised that it was a freebe. It needs some work, but will be a nice axe.


----------



## LondonNeil

I agree, the stiletto emblem is striking.


----------



## svk

Last Ospho post, I promise. 

I found these horseshoes and a few others at the end of a portage into a remote lake. I can only assume there was a logging camp there at one point. They were really rusty so a few of the chunks stayed on but most came off. Either way they will hold paint much better now.


----------



## dancan

The yard sales have started !







2 1/4 lb Sandvik

It had been beat on some so I gave a quick clean .










I'm not sure if I'll rehang or rehaft yet , I'll decide when I get the haft off and have a closer look .

BTW , 7$


----------



## dancan

Geez, I think that I should re-evaluate my hobby and collection of axes , 

http://www.north-river-custom-knives.com/restoredvintageaxes.html

I didn't think the value was as high as it is apparently from what this fella is getting for his axes .


----------



## LondonNeil

Sweet $7!! nice Dan. Seeing it reminds me, i need to post photos of the Elwell I bought recently. Elwell is a top vintage English maker.



Head is very good,


and 28" handle is pretty good too. it was very dry and has soaked up 2 or 3 wipes of BLO already. Nice and whippy too. It does have a little overstrike damage though



and as you can see, like Dan's its worked loose 1/4 inch or more in the past. I would like to remove the head then drop it down 1/2 to 3/4 inch, and cover most of the damage but someone has fitted a large metal wedge...won't be easy to remove given its down inside the head.



It has got it gripped though, the head is tight. so I'm leaning to leaving it, and sorting out an overstrike protector....more on that shortly


----------



## LondonNeil

Also got a hatchet recently from another top English maker, Brades. its a Brades Criterion 318. I love the grind! it needs a good sharpen though, won't even stick in the block, hence its just laying there.


Handle has some woodworm, but seems solid and its nicely fitted and wedged


----------



## dancan

Nice finds there Neil !


----------



## svk

Fleet supply had boys axe handles in stock again. 1 of 5 had good grain so it came home with me. One was terrible, about 1/4 inches between growth lines. 

Also picked up a sledge handle. Will rehang those as time allows.


----------



## svk

Nice scores @LondonNeil!


----------



## rarefish383

I took down a 70' White Pine for my neighbor Saturday, and took 4 dump trailers of brush and wood to the mulch factory today. Just as I got home my cousin called and said there were several nice axes at the local auction. So, I grabbed my money and got down to the auction. He said there was one short handled ax and a boys ax in the first barn. I found them and gave them a quick look. The short handled one was a fairly nice Jersey, but I didn't see any name, and I knew it would be an hour before they got to it, so I gave up and went home. A little after I got home, another friend called and said he was at the auction and the short handle ax was a Plumb. I looked at it over and over and didn't see it, my vision was so blurry from heat and sweat. Anyway, he got it for me for $10. I'll have a pic in a couple days. I drank a 6 pack of water and I think I'm still running dry.


----------



## NCPT

Recent double bit restore.


----------



## LondonNeil

Nice, very nice. There is something so appealing about certain vintage axes, and doubles always seem to hit that spot.


----------



## rarefish383

Here's my new Plumb Victory. My buddy picked it up at the local Tuesday auction for $10. I looked at it and didn't see the maker on it, and it was so hot, I left. He called shortly after I got home and said there was a nice Plumb at the sale, so he got a number and bid on it for me. It's a big head, makes the 32 inch handle look short.


----------



## LondonNeil

What is that mark? it looks like 'v5FoR'

Head looks smashing. Will you rehandle or rehang on the existing stick?


----------



## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> What is that mark? it looks like 'v5FoR'
> 
> Head looks smashing. Will you rehandle or rehang on the existing stick?


I had to look at it twice, it says "VICTORY". I might take the tape off and see what it looks like. It has a pretty big split, but if it cleans up nice I might make it a wall hanger. It's not beat up too bad, I'll have to think about it. There is another big farm sale Saturday two weeks from now. They have a bunch of axes and a 70's Homelite XL100 series that looks pretty nice. I'm just getting into acquisition mode, restoration mode will come after deer season.


----------



## lead farmer

rarefish383 said:


> I had to look at it twice, it says "VICTORY". I might take the tape off and see what it looks like. It has a pretty big split, but if it cleans up nice I might make it a wall hanger. It's not beat up too bad, I'll have to think about it. There is another big farm sale Saturday two weeks from now. They have a bunch of axes and a 70's Homelite XL100 series that looks pretty nice. I'm just getting into acquisition mode, restoration mode will come after deer season.


You local guys should come to my gtg June 2nd. Doing a pig an stuff. Lots of wood there to run saws in or use a axe. Chambersburg is the location

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## rarefish383

My cousin went to an auction in Chambersburg on Monday. He said they had two old chainsaws that sold for $6 for the pair, and he didn't get them for me. I might be able to make the 2nd.


----------



## lead farmer

rarefish383 said:


> My cousin went to an auction in Chambersburg on Monday. He said they had two old chainsaws that sold for $6 for the pair, and he didn't get them for me. I might be able to make the 2nd.


Check out the p a get-together thread

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## p61 western

Had a chance to put a Handle on that Stilleto

head.


----------



## lead farmer

p61 western said:


> Had a chance to put a Handle on that StilletoView attachment 652755
> View attachment 652756
> head.


Looking good man. Did you make the handle?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## p61 western

lead farmer said:


> Looking good man. Did you make the handle?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


No I actually saved that handle from a Collins that was bent real bad. It took a good amount of work, but it's a real nice thin older handle.


----------



## p61 western

The head has a chip, and I'm undecided as what to do about yet. What do you guys think?


----------



## svk

I’d just leave it. It looks great. As you use and resharpen, it will eventually disappear.


----------



## p61 western

svk said:


> I’d just leave it. It looks great. As you use and resharpen, it will eventually disappear.


Thank you, and that's what I was thinking as well.


----------



## lead farmer

p61 western said:


> Thank you, and that's what I was thinking as well.


I would box it up and send it to me. [emoji38]

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> You local guys should come to my gtg June 2nd. Doing a pig an stuff. Lots of wood there to run saws in or use a axe. Chambersburg is the location
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



I should be able to do that, Chambersburg is only about a 45 minute drive from me.


----------



## Multifaceted

p61 western said:


> The head has a chip, and I'm undecided as what to do about yet. What do you guys think?View attachment 652835



Looks nice, well done. As to the chip, take a bastard file to it and flatten the edge, then resharpen. If you plan to use that, a chip that size will start to get on your nerves in a hurry.


----------



## rarefish383

lead farmer said:


> You local guys should come to my gtg June 2nd. Doing a pig an stuff. Lots of wood there to run saws in or use a axe. Chambersburg is the location
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


I couldn't find the get-together thread. Multifaceted and I may car pool. It looks like we are both open that weekend. I might bring one of my Super 1050's, especially if someone videos me doing the Super Dangerous Drop Start.


----------



## rarefish383

OOPS, he already responded.


----------



## rarefish383

All this rain drove me down in the basement. The only reason I came up is there is no beer down there. Gotta send out a big thanks to SVK for the Kevlar gloves. Been working on the blade of my Collins boys ax. With just the file it will shave the hair off my arm and slice a sheet of paper like butter, and I haven't even pulled the stones out yet. Also hit the Collins Legitmus Double a couple strokes. Will have a couple pics later. Gotta get back down stairs. Rust is forming on everything and the beer is getting warm, terrible combination.


----------



## p61 western

lead farmer said:


> I would box it up and send it to me. [emoji38]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Send me that Jersey and we might have a deal lol.


----------



## dancan

Well , I think I'm gonna put up that last 3lb Hults Bruk that I bought for sale and send the proceeds to jimdad07



Jim is good people and needs a bit of help , I've already sold a saw and the monies are on the way to him , send me a pm for an offer on a fine 3lb piece of Swede steel , I'd like to sell it by next Friday .


----------



## svk

rarefish383 said:


> All this rain drove me down in the basement. The only reason I came up is there is no beer down there. Gotta send out a big thanks to SVK for the Kevlar gloves. Been working on the blade of my Collins boys ax. With just the file it will shave the hair off my arm and slice a sheet of paper like butter, and I haven't even pulled the stones out yet. Also hit the Collins Legitmus Double a couple strokes. Will have a couple pics later. Gotta get back down stairs. Rust is forming on everything and the beer is getting warm, terrible combination.


Good to hear, I had totally forgotten about those!


----------



## rarefish383

Here are a couple pics of the Boys Ax. The one I'm working on is on the far left of the 4.


----------



## rarefish383

Pulled the square nails and screws out.


----------



## rarefish383

Started on the blade, it's in pretty good shape, a couple small nicks, mostly rust pitting along the edge.


----------



## rarefish383

After I got the nails out of the kerf, the head tapped off easy. The stick is still in good shape, so put a couple hours with the 4 in hand rasp on it. Thinned it a little and reshaped it to octagonal. But after trying to sand out most of the rasp marks, it's almost round again. Put one coat of BLO on it. Going to make a Black Walnut wedge today. After I get it all tight I'll put a few more coats of BLO and call it a day.


----------



## rarefish383

I think I posted this pic before? Does anyone know what this little ax is for. My guess would be a small "Mortising" ax. The hammer head is checkered almost like a meat hammer, and the handle hole is about the size of my index finger. The ball peen, for comparison, is a 2 ounce Plumb. The ax is the one that was in the bottom of a box lot my cousin bought for a dollar. I gave him a dollar for the ax, so he was tickled, he got the rest of the box for free.


----------



## rarefish383

Almost finished. I hand fit the wedge to the kerf. If you look at the store bought wedge it tapers rapidly from the top to bottom. The "point" that bottoms out in the kerf is not touching either side. The only point where there is good contact is half way up the kerf where it starts to get tight. The store wedge is Poplar, so it will deform and smash out and make a little better contact where it deforms. I hand fit the wedge so it's square at the bottom and just a couple thousandths thicker where it bottoms out, it's Black Walnut and pretty hard compared to the Poplar. Plus there is contact all the way down the kerf. I slathered in a good dose of exterior wood glue. I wish I had a good wood epoxy on hand , but I didn't. It says it will be fully cured in 24 hours, think I'll let it sit for 48 hours, then grind the rest of the wedge off. I might still get some epoxy and try to pump it down the groove where they had a square cut nail driven in.


----------



## LondonNeil

great work!

what weight is that boys axe Joe? and how long is the shaft?


----------



## rarefish383

I keep forgetting to weigh the heads when I have them off. The handle is 24 1/2 inches and the whole thing weighs exactly 5 pounds. It feels very head heavy. I just called it a boys axe because it was short. If you look at House Handles, their boys axe has a curved handle 28" and 2.25 pound head. My Plumb and Craftsman Boys heads are both 2.25 pounds. If the other guys say it's not a boys axe, I'll stand corrected.


----------



## LondonNeil

I know there is variation around regions, styles and personal preferences but what do you guys think the scale is? Names, Head weight and shaft length ranges.... My guess:
Hatchet 1 1/4lbs 15"
House axe? 1 3/4lbs 20"
Camping axe. Errrrr
Boys axe. Errrrrrrr
Small felling axe 2 1/2 - 2 3/4 lbs 28"
Large felling axe. 3-6 lbs 32"+

??


----------



## rarefish383

I think I'll get the gray single in the middle next, I think I can save the handle. Of course it has a nail driven in it. The wedge is pretty soft, I pulled a big piece out with curved needle nose pliers and then cut the rest out with an Exacto saw. Head came off pretty easy. I tried to weigh it on my digital fish scale and the battery was dead, so I stood on the bathroom scale and held it, just about 3 pounds. I have a postal scale I'll move down to my junk room later, I don't have a flat spot to put it. No name on the head, it only has a couple dings on it, and was painted red. I think there is plenty room on the handle to reset the head lower. Oh, 36" handle.


----------



## rarefish383

A coupe pretty ones. The short handle Plumb cruiser is the one Multifaceted hung for me.


----------



## Farmboy338

I have fallen in love with the Jersey pattern axe, but sadly nearly no one needed anything heavier than a 2#head in my neck of the woods. Is there any of you that know of a way to ship an axe head from the states for less than the price of a new axe. I would love to get my hands on a beauty like rarefish’s next project.


rarefish383 said:


>


----------



## Good Feller

Anyone know what this is called? I've checked the internet but can't find it. The paint reminds me of a hults bruk


----------



## Farmboy338

Good Feller said:


> View attachment 653221
> Anyone know what this is called? I've checked the internet but can't find it. The paint reminds me of a hults bruk


Looks like a pickaroon me to me, but have noe idea on make and moddel


----------



## Homelitexl903

Good Feller said:


> View attachment 653221
> Anyone know what this is called? I've checked the internet but can't find it. The paint reminds me of a hults bruk


Pickaroon.


----------



## svk

Good Feller said:


> View attachment 653221
> Anyone know what this is called? I've checked the internet but can't find it. The paint reminds me of a hults bruk


Definitely a pickaroon and either a HB or someone painted it to look like HB. Does it have a makers mark?


----------



## Good Feller

svk said:


> Definitely a pickaroon and either a HB or someone painted it to look like HB. Does it have a makers mark?


It has something painted on the handle but not legible. Nothing stamped in the head.


----------



## Good Feller

I did some googling. From what I could make out on the handle, I thought it said dix industries, it looks like it might be a Dixie western star make. Thank you everyone. I kept looking for various kinds of picks and all I would get is pick axes. I would have never figured out pickaroon lol


----------



## bigbadbob

Some yard sale finds for a few toonies. No names that I cans see, yet.
Too bad handles are hard to find here and expensive.


----------



## bigbadbob

Some name pics,, any info appreciated.


----------



## Good Feller

bigbadbob said:


> Some name pics,, any info appreciated.
> View attachment 653250
> View attachment 653251


Is this a large broad axe? Isaiah Blood took over that company in the 1800s.


----------



## bigbadbob

Good Feller said:


> Is this a large broad axe? Isaiah Blood took over that company in the 1800s.


Yes its the one in post 1040


----------



## dancan

Good Feller said:


> It has something painted on the handle but not legible. Nothing stamped in the head.



https://www.cmworks.com/Rigging/DixieIndustriesForestryTools


----------



## LondonNeil

Good Feller said:


> View attachment 653221
> Anyone know what this is called? I've checked the internet but can't find it. The paint reminds me of a hults bruk


Pickaroon, hookaroon, sappie. All names for the same tool ..... Along with 'most excellent and essential back saving wooder's tool'


----------



## Good Feller

bigbadbob said:


> Yes its the one in post 1040


Lol, where do you see post numbers? If you google, blood callston ny extra steel, a bunch of really educational stuff pops up for that. It was a fun read and made me a little envious of your awesome axe.


----------



## Good Feller

I got all of these at an auction for five dollars. There was a 3lb and an 8lb sledge head also but somebody gave me five dollars for them. So after the auctioneer 10% premium I paid 50 cents. I'm happy with it. Now I need to buy a dozen or so handles and get some garage time.


----------



## bigbadbob

Post number is rite beside the like button


----------



## rarefish383

I've decided I may start wearing rubber gloves when applying BLO. Two or three days after I used it, I'll rub my eye, scratch my ear, and get a wiff of dead fish, or something similar. I was just playing with two axes I recently coated and they still smell. It's not bad at first, but when it won't go away, yuck.


----------



## p61 western

Did a little more finishing to the Stiletto axe, and it works great.


----------



## Good Feller

I picked up a new axe head today, no name or marks on it, I'll try to get some pics tomorrow so I can get edumacated by some of this threads gurus.


----------



## Good Feller

This my newest


----------



## dancan

No new finds for me this weekend 
But , here's a pretty cool couple of old vids


----------



## LondonNeil

I forgot to update, sorry!

So the oak chip stew turned black and the axe heads very black, but once dry the black powder just brushed off...boo. never mind




still nice.

pretty tightfit with the wedge expanding the handle very well. just a wee gap at the back, tight round the bottom all round


nice and straight


yeah! nice expansion. don't think that is going to come loose....I'm rather smugly pleased! been a bit of work with filing out the eye but, it feels and looks nice. Obs I'll cut the edge off and stick one or 2 metal wedges across the head. can't decide...grind the sticky out bit round like buckin' does or leave as is....hmmm


----------



## LondonNeil

need to get the Jersey hung too. Some how the red paint on that goes 1/4" down inside the eye and i'll take that out...its thick, it would stop the handle. makes me think ....has that paint been put on by a previous owner (after the handle had slipped a bit)? I have no idea how True Temper axes were finished originally


----------



## svk

This is a small pick/mattock set on a DBA handle that I had just re-wedged. It was very old, 60’s vintage at the very latest from my grandpa’s house. My son was cleaning off the beach and heard a crack. I told him it was nothing and then he walks over to me with this. He thought I would be mad that he broke it lol. I told him it was about time. 





He did a nice job busting the rust off the newer full size pick mattock #2. I oiled it before putting it away to keep it “purdy”. 






Hard at work. Definitely the hardest those teenage muscles have ever worked. He felt it the next day lol 



Here’s mattock #3. The handle was pretty beaten up and wasn’t going to hold with a slip fit without a little help. 



I rip sawed the end down about three inches and put in a wooden wedge then slipped the head over and tapped it on a hard surface. Its on there good now and after two days of my boys digging roots it hasn’t moved.


----------



## svk

Here’s that 12 pound sledge that I did in the Ospho a few weeks ago. House handle isn’t perfect but it should last a few decades as a backup backup tool. The grain is good though.


----------



## rarefish383

svk said:


> Here’s that 12 pound sledge that I did in the Ospho a few weeks ago. House handle isn’t perfect but it should last a few decades as a backup backup tool. The grain is good though.
> 
> View attachment 656373


That thing would last me the rest of my life, cause I'd set it in a corner, and never touch it again. The only thing worse than that is one of those big orange Monster Mauls with the pipe handle.


----------



## LondonNeil

I remember dad having a sledge like that when i was a kid, it got loaned to someone and lost, oh well.


----------



## svk

I don’t use a big sledge of 10+ lbs very often but they are very handy when needed. 

Busting concrete, freeing frozen logs, driving a splitting wedge (I usually use a ~8 pounder for that). Can’t think of much else a other than they can crush cans with just gravity if needed.


----------



## svk

Just pulled this out of the Ospho. This is a sledge that I picked up somewhere over the years so I’m not the one who provided the original abuse. After removing the mushroomed sides of the head the face still is full of cracks. Besides taking off a full 3/16th of each face is there any remedy for this?


----------



## dancan

Sadly , it looks like a paperweight to me .
I had a customer drop me off an ax as a gift today 
It's an older Garant because the handle rounded , I'll put up a pic when I get a chance .
When he gave it to me the first thing I thot was "Geez , that would make a nice small but heavy enough to pound wedges with ax ." 
When I looked it up I saw that they call it a "Chainsaw ax" lol

http://www.garant.com/tools/s/garde...chets/1-75-lb-chain-saw-axe-with-safety-grip/


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## rarefish383

svk said:


> Just pulled this out of the Ospho. This is a sledge that I picked up somewhere over the years so I’m not the one who provided the original abuse. After removing the mushroomed sides of the head the face still is full of cracks. Besides taking off a full 3/16th of each face is there any remedy for this?
> 
> View attachment 656719
> View attachment 656720


Holy cow! Scrapman, $10 per 100!


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## Good Feller

svk said:


> Just pulled this out of the Ospho. This is a sledge that I picked up somewhere over the years so I’m not the one who provided the original abuse. After removing the mushroomed sides of the head the face still is full of cracks. Besides taking off a full 3/16th of each face is there any remedy for this?
> 
> View attachment 656719
> View attachment 656720


That would be really cool to bring back to life....unfortunately it looks like you'd have to wear riot gear ppe when using that. Kevlar and a full face plexiglass shield while swinging a 10#?


----------



## svk

I used it to pound spikes underwater while repairing my dock. No chance of flying splinters there lol.

I guess it still works for demo work. And if the handle breaks it won’t be replaced.


----------



## rarefish383

svk said:


> I used it to pound spikes underwater while repairing my dock. No chance of flying splinters there lol.
> 
> I guess it still works for demo work. And if the handle breaks it won’t be replaced.


I can see it for the dock work. Under water it might almost feel like a zero gravity thing, and if you wind up grinding a couple pounds off? Who knows, you might not get a hernia?


----------



## svk

I should have taken a more zoomed out pic. It’s only about a 6# head with an 18” handle.


----------



## p61 western

svk said:


> I should have taken a more zoomed out pic. It’s only about a 6# head with an 18” handle.


I would cut or grind it back to good steel, and use it some more.


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## rarefish383

Oops, I thought somewhere above it said that was a 10 pounder, won't get as much from the scrapman.


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## Good Feller

It looked like a bigger sledge lol. Sorry for any confusion my assumptions caused.


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## rarefish383

My cousin picked up a Kelly Wood Slasher for me. He said it has a hole about 2/3 of the way back on the blade. I might get a chance to pick it up tomorrow morning before I leave to go fishing. If I can I'll get a pic up. I did find a price sheet and it listed the Wood Slasher as Kelly's economy grade ax, at $6.25 in 1913. Their top of the line ax was $10. This one is old enough that the writing is stamped in the steel, not a paper label.


----------



## rarefish383

Went axe shopping today. Picked up a 3 1/2 pound no name Jersey for $3, two more no names for $15, some little chopping tool for a buck, and a boys axe my cousin got for me for 3 or 4 bucks. Two I got just because they had nice handles in them with good grain patterns. They might be dry rotted and shear off with the first swing, but for now they look nice.


----------



## H-Ranch

rarefish383 said:


> Went axe shopping today. Picked up a 3 1/2 pound no name Jersey for $3, two more no names for $15, some little chopping tool for a buck, and a boys axe my cousin got for me for 3 or 4 bucks. Two I got just because they had nice handles in them with good grain patterns. They might be dry rotted and shear off with the first swing, but for now they look nice.


That's not some little chopping tool - that's a Swedish brush axe. Excellent for trail maintenance. Sharp, thin blade with some mass behind it so it goes through branches in one swing.


----------



## dancan

Yup , awesome brush ax , some were made by Sandvik and some by Wetterlings , I'd guess Sandvik for that one but I might be wrong .
I can get replacement blades and handles for those .
You do not sharpen the blade on those , only file the bevel just short of sharp .
Great score !!


----------



## dancan

I did some more looking at that Garant that was given to me the other week , it's their carpenters ax .
http://www.garant.com/tools/s/garde...hets/2-25-lbs-carpenter-axe-with-safety-grip/

It sells for about $40 Cnd kopecs , nothing special but at 2 1/4lbs and 20" long , I'm liking it for my ax scabbard


----------



## rarefish383

H-Ranch said:


> That's not some little chopping tool - that's a Swedish brush axe. Excellent for trail maintenance. Sharp, thin blade with some mass behind it so it goes through branches in one swing.


Thanks, I knew it was a brush axe, but I couldn't remember if it was Swedish or Norwegian. The chopping tool thing was an inside joke with my cousin. He was at the sale before me and called and said there was a cool little "chopper" there with a nice handle. He thought I'd want to pull the handle and put it on a throwing axe. When I saw it I told him it was a brush axe and was cool just the way it was. Since the handle is held on with a scew, it will be a quick, easy, clean up. I'll hit it with the 4 in hand to knock the grey off, gentley, and then clean it up with a little sand paper, then BLO. Oh, and the blade is in really nice shape, not a chip or ding on it.


----------



## svk

I have a larger brush axe, will throw up a picture next time I pull it out.


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## rarefish383

I told my hunting buddy to stop off on his way home, I had a beer and some Tuna steaks for him. He said he had something for me too. Another Plumb, 2 pounds 4.6 ounces.


----------



## svk

Heck of a trade!


----------



## lead farmer

Just finishing one up for a friend. He likes these fire axes. Pulled handle and lowered the head a bit. It just won't stop drinking LS oil.





Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## 95custmz

Nice work! What kind of wood for the handle?


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## rarefish383

svk said:


> Heck of a trade!


He said he paid $4 for it, I paid $550 and some sunburn for the Tuna.


----------



## Woodyjiw

Woodyjiw said:


> How's this for an early birthday gift from my fiance? 3$ at an estate sale. Best $3 she has ever spent!!!
> I'm thinking it might be a splitting axe but I'm not sure. It's heavy, thinking around 6#, I was comparing it to my 8# beater (sledgehammer).
> 
> Any info is appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Well, I finally got around to rehandling this Plumb after the handle broke when I was pounding wedges felling some trees for a friend. 
The head weighed 5# on the money. I went with a straight handle cuz I'd like to use it for banging wedges, as it sits now the handle is a lil under 32"s long. I'm thinking I might take it down to 28" or possibly 26", but haven't decided for sure. I cleaned up the head a lil bit with some 150 grit sandpaper and hit the edge with a file. I'm pretty happy so far.











Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## svk

Real nice.


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## Woodyjiw

Thank you sir

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## derwoodii

came across this little cutie tomahawk head,,i put in my hand as to give some scale.. It had no marks or identifying features just posting as other may know


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## svk

Looks more like a Hudson Bay hatchet IMO?


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## GVS

svk said:


> Looks more like a Hudson Bay hatchet IMO?


It may be a hudson bay but all the H.Bs. I've seen are dead straight across the top of the head.


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## dancan

Montreal Pattern is my 2 cents .


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## rarefish383

Saturday, at a local auction, there is a Hatchet Collection going off. I may stop by Friday afternoon and take a look.


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## rarefish383

The hatchet collection was all framing hatchets with hammers, not what I collect. My cousin was at another sale and he said there was a double bit hatchet. Said it was really cool and the bits were shaped like a bow tie. Said he has never seen anything like it before. I told him to go $10 on it. It sold for $15. He absolutely refuses to take a pic and send it. After it sold he called and went on about how cool it was. Drives me nuts, how can I make an intelligent decision, if I can't see it. He finds and gets me lots of cool stuff, so I can't complain.


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## spyder62

I hit the flea market this morning and got some pretty good finds. I saw 2 axes on a guys tailgate he told me three bucks each. He said he had a couple more on the table out front. 2 are made by kelly and one by plumb. Not sure about the red head. He even threw in the pick axe. Five for twelve bucks. Also throwing in a pic of my 288 we rebuilt and started for the first time yesterday. Seems to run good. If anyone has any knowledge on the axes they would be willing to share I’d appreciate it.


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## svk

Mushroom King!


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## svk

@Philbert 

I confiscated it until it can be ground down or replaced.


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## Philbert

Might have earned it's retirement . . . 

Philbert


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## svk

I honestly thought about throwing it in the lake.


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## Philbert

Some restaurant or museum might want it. Might be worth a few bucks at an antique store. 

Philbert


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## svk

It’s not that old. Has a fiberglass handle.


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## rarefish383

Do you bust out that much concrete? Next time you come by, bring a trailer, I'll send you home with a Chestnut Oak log you can split with a hatchet.


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## svk

rarefish383 said:


> Do you bust out that much concrete? Next time you come by, bring a trailer, I'll send you home with a Chestnut Oak log you can split with a hatchet.


I have no idea as to where this poor tool saw such abuse. I found it sitting on the steps of the the tool shed at the children's camp and immediately declared it unfit for use.

I am actually amazed that it took so much punishment and didn't shear anything off..... Probably cheap, unhardened steel so it just continued to mushroom rather than shear.


----------



## rarefish383

svk said:


> I have no idea as to where this poor tool saw such abuse. I found it sitting on the steps of the the tool shed at the children's camp and immediately declared it unfit for use.
> 
> I am actually amazed that it took so much punishment and didn't shear anything off..... Probably cheap, unhardened steel so it just continued to mushroom rather than shear.


I thought it was one from you Dad's place. Coming from the camp makes sense. Home of the "Abuse every thing, because it's not mine, family". Although, some one must of had some skill, the mushroom is so even it almost looks factory.


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## svk

Yup, no surprise coming from camp LOL. And I too was impressed by the evenness of the mushroom.

I must have a half dozen of these sitting in my shop at home but not worth the cost to ship to NY.


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## dancan

spyder62 said:


> I hit the flea market this morning and got some pretty good finds. I saw 2 axes on a guys tailgate he told me three bucks each. He said he had a couple more on the table out front. 2 are made by kelly and one by plumb. Not sure about the red head. He even threw in the pick axe. Five for twelve bucks. Also throwing in a pic of my 288 we rebuilt and started for the first time yesterday. Seems to run good. If anyone has any knowledge on the axes they would be willing to share I’d appreciate it.



Awesome score there !!!

BTW , you suck , and I mean that in a kind and respectful way lol


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## rarefish383

Three no name axes, so I passed. A pile of about 6-8 wedges, couple mushroomed, a couple new, the rest in between. I got to talking and missed them. I didn't want them, I was going to send them to MN the next time SVK comes by. Bought a little Sears Explorer I for $10. I'm pretty sure it's a Poulan XXV, got pics in the Poulan thread and scrounging.


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## Good Feller

svk said:


> Mushroom King!
> 
> View attachment 660616
> View attachment 660617


Holy smokes! I had one like that years ago when I was a younger and dumber man. I tried to split a rock and a piece of the mushrooming shot off and hit me in the abdomen. Hurt like hell, learned a valuable lesson. Good job on the confiscation. You might have saved someone's eye or tooth or life.


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## LondonNeil

So. It seems I have a 6lb Wetterlings on its way. Paid £36 after postage, not bad. Handle is described as 'nicks but plenty of life'. The photos suggest it's actually ' utterly fubar' .. I'll be slightly annoyed at the poor description but not unexpectedly ripped off.

Also have a bid in on a 'made in Sweden' head only. Fingers crossed. I might also get around to finishing the Kelly and the likely Swedish hatchet.... Maybe....I did sell the project 660 so no excuses.... Other then dad being ill, 2 kids under 3 and starting a new job.... At least the wood pile is continuing to grow....20cube CSS, +5 collected awaiting processing. Head feels like it is above water but the waves are bigger then I'd like!


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## svk

LondonNeil said:


> So. It seems I have a 6lb Wetterlings on its way. Paid £36 after postage, not bad. Handle is described as 'nicks but plenty of life'. The photos suggest it's actually ' utterly fubar' .. I'll be slightly annoyed at the poor description but not unexpectedly ripped off.
> 
> Also have a bid in on a 'made in Sweden' head only. Fingers crossed. I might also get around to finishing the Kelly and the likely Swedish hatchet.... Maybe....I did sell the project 660 so no excuses.... Other then dad being ill, 2 kids under 3 and starting a new job.... At least the wood pile is continuing to grow....20cube CSS, +5 collected awaiting processing. Head feels like it is above water but the waves are bigger then I'd like!


Pics of the utterly fubar?


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## LondonNeil

I don't have it in my hands yet. It might be better then I think but in one photo it looked to have a split starting.
My head seems to be splitting this morning too.


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## LondonNeil

I think i'm gong to have some hafting practice. I just did a bit of easy splitting with the 2 3/4lb Elwell and on the pls side it felt really nice to swing and in super easy spitting cherry it was lovely, on the negative the handle I thought firm isn't, its now loose. Not fussed as I actually wanted to rehaft it, reuse the good hande and lower it down an inch or 2 is my plan, so long as I can get the head off without doing too much damage to the haft.
My pickaroon handle is also working loose. It ws my first ever hafting and its stayed tight for 6 or 8 cord of use probably. Again I'll likely drop it down a couple of inches.

The annoying thing about tonights little session of splitting ....a partial stack collapse. poo.


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## svk

Add a metal wedge rather than re-hanging?


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## LondonNeil

It came that way. When I bought it I could tell the head had loosened as it had moved 1/4" off the haft but someone had added a massive metal wedge along side the wood one and first time I used it the head felt ok. Last night it moved a fair bit though. If I can get it off, I'll drop it down an inch or 2, it's getting it off that could be tricky but given the amount of movement I think it will come.


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## Good Feller

I have a hb hatchet with epoxied head that has come loose. Has anyone dropped the haft on one of these and added a wedge?


----------



## dancan

Good Feller said:


> I have a hb hatchet with epoxied head that has come loose. Has anyone dropped the haft on one of these and added a wedge?



I've done several rehandles from those with epoxy because I found that it would have been too low after trying to set the head .


----------



## Good Feller

dancan said:


> I've done several rehandles from those with epoxy because I found that it would have been too low after trying to set the head .


Thank you. I was hoping I wouldn’t have to rehang it seeings how the handle is still in great shape with almost all the red paint on it still. But I don’t want to epoxy it either.


----------



## Lowhog

Would like to see this true temper flint edge Kelly and Winchester go to a new home, I don't have time for them now. I have 2 new house handles for them.


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## svk

Pretty!


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## LondonNeil

ooooo indeed! Gooorgeous!!


----------



## svk

Lowhog said:


> Would like to see this true temper flint edge Kelly and Winchester go to a new home, I don't have time for them now. I have 2 new house handles for them. View attachment 663002
> View attachment 663003


Where are you at in MN


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## Lowhog

5 miles from Deer Creek.


----------



## svk

@Philbert hooked me up with a new handle for my 6# maul. Good thing it came with two packs of epoxy because some of the first batch weeped out of the bottom of the eye despite the fact that I taped it up with painters tape. I kind of made a mess with it on top of the head but can clean that up later


----------



## svk

Cleaned off the epoxy dribbles and removed the masking tape this morning. Once I cleaned up the mess it looks great. 

The epoxy kit came with a piece of flexible putty to wrap around the base of the head to prevent weeping from the uncured epoxy. Unfortunately I didn’t see the putty until I had already put masking tape around the base and figured it wouldn’t leak but was wrong. 

Thank you again @Philbert. I’ll be sure to report on the durability of this handle.


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## svk

It’s kind of neat that this is a Kelly True Temper head on a more modern yet still older Ames True Temper handle.


----------



## Philbert

It was meant to be. 

Philbert


----------



## svk

It said cure time was 90 minutes but was still tacky 4 hours later. The trimmed scraps were soft but not tacky this morning. I’ll give it a week or so before using.


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> It said cure time was 90 minutes but was still tacky 4 hours later.


Old epoxy. Hardener may have lost it's spark.

Philbert


----------



## svk

Worst case I pop it back off and buy a new pack of epoxy.


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> Worst case I pop it back off and buy a new pack of epoxy.


De-poxy then re-poxy.

Philbert


----------



## dancan

Hafted the Sandvik on a 20" Smegburg hickory today .


----------



## svk

Wow look at that fit. Definitely above my grade!


----------



## dancan

Thanks , that one fit up real nice 

I picked up a few axes this weekend , I might have a 4 3/4 lb Norlund up for grabs , I already have 1 and I gave a mint one to Jerry .


----------



## LondonNeil

I agree with Steve, you've given us someting to aim at there Dan! good work.

I just won a nice 4lb Kent pattern W. Gilpin on ebay for £13 posted. So that's another good english maker ticked, and another head shape. Kents have ears, so I'm guessing the hang will be tricky, but I'll work carefully. I might put it on a shorter straight haft, as a fellers axe maybe, not sure yet.


----------



## LondonNeil

forgot to say,loaned the 6lb wetterlings to my brother as he is axeless currently (still hasn't got around to rehafting his splitting axe...he's as busy elsewhere as me it seems!). He has been a serial haft breaker, so this'll test out the somewhat damaged haft. i think i will order a new smedberg.

so smedberg/burg, its an international brand? i had no idea.


----------



## dancan

LondonNeil said:


> ....
> 
> so smedberg/burg, its an international brand? i had no idea.



Not really , I can buy the GB/Hultafors replacements (Smedberg) from LeeValley and the Hultafors through GH Factory sales .

http://www.smedbergs.com/index-e.htm


----------



## rarefish383

Trying to figure out how to hang four axes, this is what I came up with.


----------



## svk

Nice!


----------



## lead farmer

rarefish383 said:


> Trying to figure out how to hang four axes, this is what I came up with.


Could you come to my place and make something to hold about 20 ? [emoji38]

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## rarefish383

lead farmer said:


> Could you come to my place and make something to hold about 20 ? [emoji38]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


I'm still working on that. It depends on how much space you want to use? I can mill a piece of Fir up to 22' long. If you look in the center of the pic there is one brass "pull" by itself. I bought all the "pulls" Ace had. I plan on putting a "pull" between each double and one on each end, then hanging an ax blade down on a leather choker. That will get 9 on that board.


----------



## svk

If I had a larger shop, one or more of those would be great to display all of them.


----------



## abbott295

I don't post pictures often enough (anywhere) to remember how to do it, but a couple of weeks ago I picked up two axes at a yard sale. One is a Plumb in a pattern I don't know that I have ever seen before. From looking at "An axe to grind", I think it looks like a "rafting" pattern, with the chamfered corners on the poll. The other is a double bit with no name that I could find. They also had another Plumb in a common pattern, Michigan I think it is. I left that one. New handles on the two Plumbs. Grain was crosswise on the Michigan, good on the one I took. Handle on the double may be original to it, painted red, cracked with old tape on it and epoxied to the head.


----------



## NCPT

Here's a double bit axe I put back to use 2 months ago.


----------



## Multifaceted

abbott295 said:


> I don't post pictures often enough (anywhere) to remember how to do it, but a couple of weeks ago I picked up two axes at a yard sale. One is a Plumb in a pattern I don't know that I have ever seen before. From looking at "An axe to grind", I think it looks like a "rafting" pattern, with the chamfered corners on the poll. The other is a double bit with no name that I could find. They also had another Plumb in a common pattern, Michigan I think it is. I left that one. New handles on the two Plumbs. Grain was crosswise on the Michigan, good on the one I took. Handle on the double may be original to it, painted red, cracked with old tape on it and epoxied to the head.



I'd love to see the rafting axe. The chamfered corners along the poll sounds right. Does it also have a waffle pattern on the poll as well, like a framing hammer? Rafting axes were made with hardened polls for hammering ties on timber rafts in the old logging days. A very specialized axe, and something that I've been on the hunt for in my collection.


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> Trying to figure out how to hang four axes, this is what I came up with.



That looks bada$$, Joe!


----------



## NCPT

Just put a new handle on this hatchet Sunday afternoon.....if anyone knows what style it is, please let me know. Particularly proud of this one because I made the handle from some chunks of walnut my neighbor gave me. If anyone can give me a good guess on what species walnut, I would appreciate it....I know it's not black walnut and it has a quilted grain that can be seen in the last 2 pics.


----------



## Multifaceted

NCPT said:


> Just put a new handle on this hatchet Sunday afternoon.....if anyone knows what style it is, please let me know. Particularly proud of this one because I made the handle from some chunks of walnut my neighbor gave me. If anyone can give me a good guess on what species walnut, I would appreciate it....I know it's not black walnut and it has a quilted grain that can be seen in the last 2 pics.
> View attachment 664997
> View attachment 664998
> View attachment 664999
> View attachment 665000
> View attachment 665001
> View attachment 665002
> View attachment 665003



Veru nicely done! Not sure walnut is the best type of wood for a striking tool, but it's better than none or a dry rotted, loose fitting one. To me, it appears to be a double bevel hewing hatchet. They're used to hew round logs into flat timber. Not 100% certain, but that's my educated guess.


----------



## NCPT

My buddy gave me the double bit and hatchet. I stopped by to show him my work and he gave me these 5 pieces. I'm thinking of turning the head with a very rounded bit, into a Hudson style. The hatchet is in excellent condition, it says Collins on the head. The head with partial handle will be fun as well as the bush axe. The smushed one....I may make a display piece out of it.


----------



## NCPT

You're right about walnut not being the best. But I did realize that this is not a splitting tool and more of a sharp/precision tool.....figured walnut would be ok.

If ash or hickory is harder than walnut, I'm not sure I want to make a handle out of them lol....this walnut was like a rock.


----------



## NCPT

I don't know how to quote you multifaceted, but thanks and hewing hatchet sounds right.


----------



## NCPT

Multifaceted said:


> Veru nicely done! Not sure walnut is the best type of wood for a striking tool, but it's better than none or a dry rotted, loose fitting one. To me, it appears to be a double bevel hewing hatchet. They're used to hew round logs into flat timber. Not 100% certain, but that's my educated guess.



Figured it out.


----------



## 95custmz

Could be English Walnut that you used to make the axe handle.


----------



## Multifaceted

NCPT said:


> You're right about walnut not being the best. But I did realize that this is not a splitting tool and more of a sharp/precision tool.....figured walnut would be ok.
> 
> If ash or hickory is harder than walnut, I'm not sure I want to make a handle out of them lol....this walnut was like a rock.



I wouldn't worry too much about it unless you plan to use it very hard. It's not so much the hardness as it is the elasticity of woods like hickory or ash that make them well suited for striking tool handles. Oak is also very hard, but a poor choice for handles because it had little elasticity and will eventually split or crack upon impact.


----------



## NCPT

Multifaceted said:


> I wouldn't worry too much about it unless you plan to use it very hard. It's not so much the hardness as it is the elasticity of woods like hickory or ash that make them well suited for striking tool handles. Oak is also very hard, but a poor choice for handles because it had little elasticity and will eventually split or crack upon impact.


That's what I need to know. Thanks!


----------



## rarefish383

NCPT said:


> That's what I need to know. Thanks!


I made an Ash handle for my little Plumb throwing ax. I actually picked a piece of nice grained firewood and squared it up on my table saw. Then I shaped the whole thing with a 4 in hand rasp. It removed wood pretty darn fast. The slab I use for a target is a highly valuable Black Walnut crotch


----------



## dancan

Clean up and figure out how to get a handle on that beat up head .
People will wonder for years and try to figure out what that ax was used for lol


----------



## LondonNeil

Hewing


----------



## abbott295

No waffling on the head.


----------



## Multifaceted

Rafting patterns don't always have waffling on the poll, some of the older ones did, also even some of the older ones were ground away by users who didn't like it.


----------



## Multifaceted

Gosh, this summer has been insanely busy, hardly any time for anything, and what spare time I do have is consumed with work around the house and property. Here's some upcoming axe projects I've been planning...

An Old Timer double bit from @svk that needs some considerable re-profiling. One side is mostly done:













The other a little 3lb Kelly that I am going to modify into a 2.25-2.5 lb bushcraft axe for a longtime friend of mine:


----------



## svk

Looking great @Multifaceted


----------



## LondonNeil

Interested to hear how you'll go about reducing the weight of the 3lb axe by so much, and to see the result.


----------



## Philbert

Multifaceted said:


> Here's some upcoming axe projects I've been planning...
> An Old Timer double bit from @svk that needs some considerable re-profiling.
> The other a little 3lb Kelly that I am going to modify into a 2.25-2.5 lb bushcraft axe for a longtime friend of mine:


Damn!

I was happy just having an axe that was sharp and did not have a loose handle. You guys are trouble.

I've started keeping an eye out at garage sales now . . . 

Philbert


----------



## LondonNeil

they sucked me in too. AAD is less expensive than CAD though!


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> Interested to hear how you'll go about reducing the weight of the 3lb axe by so much, and to see the result.



A lot of grinding, quenching, and filing. Let me reiterate and say — _I hope to_ get it to 2.25-2.5 lb in the process of reshaping it. A considerable amount will be removed from the heel as well as the poll, where some of the weight is concentrated.



Philbert said:


> Damn!
> 
> I was happy just having an axe that was sharp and did not have a loose handle. You guys are trouble.
> 
> I've started keeping an eye out at garage sales now . . .
> 
> Philbert



I kind of just fell into it, and now look at me....


----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> A lot of grinding, quenching, and filing. Let me reiterate and say — _I hope to_ get it to 2.25-2.5 lb in the process of reshaping it. A considerable amount will be removed from the heel as well as the poll, where some of the weight is concentrated.
> 
> 
> 
> I kind of just fell into it, and now look at me....


Know what you mean. I had 4-5 that had been in our barn forever. Then Mom and Dad moved so I brought them home, and stuck them in a corner. Then I met you guys, and now I have over 20. I think I counted 10 Jersey's yesterday when I was trying to consolidate them.


----------



## dancan

I quit smoking about 18 years ago , I figure my "ax habit" is still way cheaper than smoking lol
I try not to spend more than 10$ on a head but aim for 5$ , the handles usually cost me more than the heads but I've gotten picky on handles so I've got like maybe 10 heads waiting .
I'm at around 40+ axes over the years with maybe 10 that were new purchases .
Joe might win on the Jersey's but I'll win on the Swedes lol


----------



## Good Feller

Good Feller said:


> I have a hb hatchet with epoxied head that has come loose. Has anyone dropped the haft on one of these and added a wedge?


----------



## al-k

Here is a couple of things i grabbed from the scrap pile at work.


----------



## Good Feller

What can I do about the small gap in the front of the eye? It’s tight and works great right now but I’m worried it’ll work itself loose.


----------



## svk

Carve a small piece of wood and tap it in?


----------



## cat10ken

I've been collecting axes and hatchets for a few years and now I have over 50. I wish there was a local get-together so I could show them off and maybe sell a few. I also have 5 aluminum skull buckets I'd like to sell. Don't ask for pictures because I just can't wrap my head around how you do it.


----------



## abbott295

I just did it recently and it wasn't so bad. 

I took the pictures on my phone and emailed them to myself. Then I downloaded them to my computer and after an attempt or several, managed to open them in a form that I could copy and paste into the reply I was working on. 

At least I think that's how it went. 

Your mileage ( and memory ) may vary. Mine certainly does sometimes. 

Abbott295


----------



## cat10ken

Ya Abbott, If I had someone to literally walk me through the process about a dozen times, showing which buttons to push (not telling me but actually showing which ones) I could probably learn how to do it. Then if I did it every day to refresh my memory I would be OK.

I don't have a smart phone but I am able to get the pictures from my camera onto the computer but from there I am lost.

I am a retired dozer operator and I fought being given a new D6R dozer with GPS, saying I'm too old to learn how to run it; but I stuck with it and boy was that nice! So I'm not too old to learn, I just need the right teacher.


----------



## LondonNeil

you have to love the occasional poorly listed ebay item for that 'will i get a bargain' excitement

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Vintag...50a9c4448b1b6efffc8174|iid:1&autorefresh=true

seller doesn't know what he has. One Plumb Victory, good condition, about a 4lb head I think, one S.A.Wetterlings about 2 1/2 lb head and a small unknown head. Seller doesn't know the faint SAW marking and just described the 'Sweden' marking and didn't do that in the listing title .... the wetterlings....I'd expect to see go for £40, maybe more if properly listed. the Plumb not many people in the UK will know of so unless 2 knowledgeable people bid it could go low...and bigger heads seem less popular. I'm currently the high bidder but don't really need them as I have the True Temper Jersey from Joe (still needs hanging!) and a nice 2 3/4 lb Elwell. If I get a bargain, great, but also be very happy to be outbid and see someone else enjoy them.


----------



## rarefish383

I do have a hard time passing up a nice Plumb.


----------



## abbott295

I was back up home this past week; I have mentioned before that it is lumber king territory and that my dad had more than a few axes from garage and estate sales and thought there might be a chance there could be something really old or interesting there. I counted 27. Lighting conditions weren't great and most had rusting, some pitted, many were beat up, etc. His buying the leftovers at the sales probably mostly got him the dregs. I could not see markings on probably the majority of them and they were hard to read. But I found a couple Craftsman, one that said Wards something, one that all I could make out, so far, said "hollow ground", and a double bit that I could see something "perfect. I brought home seven axes and a curious little hatchet. I will try to get some pictures on here before long. (A couple weeks to a couple months)

Very possibly, scrap metal drives to support war efforts took most of the old axe heads long ago.


----------



## LondonNeil

I should have bid more. someone got a bargain. £37 for the 3. and only a few days ago a 4lb S.A.Wetterlings i watched went for £50. Someone should be very very pleased tonight.


----------



## lead farmer

LondonNeil said:


> I should have bid more. someone got a bargain. £37 for the 3. and only a few days ago a 4lb S.A.Wetterlings i watched went for £50. Someone should be very very pleased tonight.


Hasn't been many pics on here for awhile now you went an left us down.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## rarefish383

abbott295 said:


> I was back up home this past week; I have mentioned before that it is lumber king territory and that my dad had more than a few axes from garage and estate sales and thought there might be a chance there could be something really old or interesting there. I counted 27. Lighting conditions weren't great and most had rusting, some pitted, many were beat up, etc. His buying the leftovers at the sales probably mostly got him the dregs. I could not see markings on probably the majority of them and they were hard to read. But I found a couple Craftsman, one that said Wards something, one that all I could make out, so far, said "hollow ground", and a double bit that I could see something "perfect. I brought home seven axes and a curious little hatchet. I will try to get some pictures on here before long. (A couple weeks to a couple months)
> 
> Very possibly, scrap metal drives to support war efforts took most of the old axe heads long ago.


The one that said "Perfect" was probably a "Kelly Perfect". I have a couple of those.


----------



## abbott295

Kelly perfect would be fine. I think there was a Plumb also. 

Let's see if I can do some pictures.
This is the little hatchet.


Well that's not an axe.

American Logging Tool Evart, Mich. (?)

Not a cant hook either.


The axes.


Hatchets.

Now we'll see if this posts. I kept getting a security message, refresh page and try again message while copying and pasting.


----------



## svk

abbott295 said:


> Kelly perfect would be fine. I think there was a Plumb also.
> 
> Let's see if I can do some pictures.
> This is the little hatchet.
> 
> 
> Well that's not an axe.
> 
> American Logging Tool Evart, Mich. (?)
> 
> Not a cant hook either.
> 
> 
> The axes.
> 
> 
> Hatchets.
> 
> Now we'll see if this posts. I kept getting a security message, refresh page and try again message while copying and pasting.


I’m not seeing any photos


----------



## abbott295

I guess I should have paid attention to the message. 

Curses, Foiled again. It may be taking too long. 




Little hatchet thing.


----------



## svk

Nothing there either. 

You need to wait for them to be fully uploaded before hitting submit.


----------



## abbott295

I will have to try something else. pictures are not posting, but I get them in my reply before posting it.


----------



## abbott295

Anything?


----------



## svk

Are they completely downloaded?

Sometimes they get stuck like this:



They are fully uploaded when you get this.


----------



## abbott295

Okay, that's something.


----------



## svk

abbott295 said:


> Anything?


Yes this is in


----------



## abbott295

It fooled me again. And I will have to look for something like that, Steve. Haven't seen it yet.


----------



## svk

If you are on a slower mobile connection they will freeze sometimes. Happens a lot at my cabin.


----------



## abbott295

I think I got thumbnails on. You guys will have to figure out what caption goes with which photo (s). I found no name on that little vise.


----------



## dancan

Hey Joe !

http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/nova-...-national-axe-throwing-championship-1.4799117


----------



## rarefish383

dancan said:


> Hey Joe !
> 
> http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/nova-...-national-axe-throwing-championship-1.4799117


Wow, beyond my pay grade. I used to throw doubles and thought it was easy. I tried throwing my Plumb that Multifaceted hung for me. When I released it, I saw it fly in slow motion, and complete half a turn, and hit square on the end of the handle. It drove it about an eighth of an inch farther on the handle. Then I was scared to try again. Didn't want to mess up that beautiful handle. So, I bought a brand new Collins double and threw it. Exact same thing, half a turn, and hit on the handle. Haven't tried since.


----------



## dancan

I've got to find some Chineseium double bits before I start throwing lol


----------



## rarefish383

dancan said:


> I've got to find some Chineseium double bits before I start throwing lol


I got my Collins at Ace. I think it was $31 and I had a $10 off card, made it $21 The handle is so fat you could almost cut another handle out of it. Needs major thinning.


----------



## Multifaceted

I can't wait until this miserable summer comes to an end so I can resume working comfortably in my shop without dripping with sweat. I have a few projects in the works that have afforded me the time and thought put into to making an antique into a prized heirloom.


----------



## Multifaceted

I've been buying from House Handle Co for a while now. Sometimes it's a home run, other times it's a disappointment. Today, another disappointment for my "hand picked" hafts with 'No Laquer'... Just figured I'd share...

Seemingly normal looking hafts, perhaps the house axe haft looks a little thin on the palm swell...






Indeed. It appears that they took a laquered haft and turned it again to remove the laquer, along with a substantial amount of wood...





Thumb for scale...









The DBA haft grain is acceptable:





Until you check the alignment.... whoever turned this on a lathe must have had a big lunch or too much to drink the night before...













I'll be able to correct the DBA by thinning the haft as I typically do, but I'm pretty disappointed with the 19" house axe haft, I really do not think that is acceptable. Not worth my time to try to exchange it or send back, might try and sculpt it to fit, but I doubt it.

This is strike three for House, will probably not buy from them again...


----------



## svk

Crazy thin!

Is that my head in the pic?


----------



## rarefish383

svk said:


> Crazy thin!
> 
> Is that my head in the pic?


My first thought was "Oh crap, he went nuts and chopped Steve's head off". Then I went back and looked at the pic, figured you meant the Axe Head.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Crazy thin!
> 
> Is that my head in the pic?



I was wondering who that was hanging out in my shop! ...j/k

Indeed it is, still need to work the grind after removing the chips and correcting the extreme bit curvature. After that I'll decide on a finish, then hang it. The bits have been ground down a lot over the years, but there's still plenty of hardened steel remaining. It looks a little silly on a long haft, but it still has some weight to it, so I chose a 30" haft which I'll thin out for good purchase. I'm inclined to think that when it's done this will be a nicely balanced axe, somewhere between a full sized DBA and a cruiser.


----------



## svk

Cool. 

If you think that House handle isn’t worth working on, go ahead and buy another one locally and I’ll pay you for both. Totally your call.


----------



## abbott295

Here are the axes and some first pics of head shots, before any clean up or anything has been done to them. 





























Some of them have been beaten on, many will need new hafts, ( do two hafts make a whole?) unwrapping tape from handles will probably reveal problems. A good number of these hafts have been thinned down and are much skinnier than new ones come. Who'da thunk it? I guess I missed that lesson. Still not sure, with bigger hands, if a little thicker doesn't fit better, but for all I use an axe, I would end up with blisters anyway.


----------



## abbott295

I see I got the Wards Special in there twice.. That means I missed one.


I think this is the other side of the one showing the marks on the other side. (facing the other way)


----------



## Good Feller

abbott295 said:


> View attachment 670933
> 
> 
> View attachment 670934
> 
> 
> View attachment 670935
> 
> 
> View attachment 670936
> 
> 
> View attachment 670937
> 
> 
> View attachment 670938
> 
> 
> View attachment 670939
> 
> 
> View attachment 670941
> 
> 
> I think I got thumbnails on. You guys will have to figure out what caption goes with which photo (s). I found no name on that little vise.


I absolutely love that Kant hook!


----------



## al-k

Got this from work and thought i would try making a handle. 


still have some work to do.


----------



## Good Feller

al-k said:


> Got this from work and thought i would try making a handle. View attachment 672312
> View attachment 672316
> View attachment 672318
> still have some work to do.


Did you use a green piece of hickory? I’ve been wondering if that would hold up.


----------



## dancan

Looks like striped maple 





https://gobotany.newenglandwild.org/species/acer/pensylvanicum/


Nice handle !


----------



## al-k

Good Feller said:


> Did you use a green piece of hickory? I’ve been wondering if that would hold up.


Yes I did, I'll let you know. I'm wondering if it is maple, did not know I had them here. Going out and look at the leaves tomorrow. Sure dose look like it.


----------



## al-k

Looked at the leaves this morning,yep its a maple. We will see if the handle holds up or not. Only planned on using it to pound wedges and cut strings when splitting.


----------



## dancan

I've carved a few spoons from it .
It carves nice and gets hard when dried .
I've busted new hickory handles before without trying hard so I wouldn't worry about your handle .


----------



## kevin j

Question: So what is this maul? Saw at friends cabin this weekend. 
I am guessing it had rawhide or wood on the sides with the circles, but doesn’t apear any way to hold it in. Circles only about 1/2 inch deep, and don’t go through to the handle hole as far as I could tell. Didn’t look real close.


----------



## dancan

That thing looks familiar but I don't know why


----------



## svk

So I’m at my sister in law’s wedding yesterday and there’s a pickaroon head lying in the gutter outside the church.

Took it home, ground the dings off the head, and gave it soaking in Ospho. 

I couldn’t make out what the makers mark says. Maybe will be more clear after Ospho. Maybe “Hickory”? Looks to be a cut down axe head.


----------



## svk

I forgot to check the eye size before can I put it in Ospho. Hoping it’s a boy’s axe as I have a spare handle already.


----------



## Trx250r180

Those are handy ,saves from bending over so much


----------



## svk

Out of the Ospho. 

The “Hickory” stamp is much more clear now with ... Co below it and ... Minn below that. Will need to do some googling to figure this out. 

Not sure if the tip was welded on or hardened but you can see the difference in metal about an inch out on the point from the body of the head.


----------



## svk

A little searching reveals that Kelly-How-Thomson of Duluth MN made the head. Whether or not it’s originally a pickaroon remains to be determined.


----------



## Lowhog

svk said:


> A little searching reveals that Kelly-How-Thomson of Duluth MN made the head. Whether or not it’s originally a pickaroon remains to be determined.


Frost must have pushed it up out of the ground. Things pop up here on the farm every year.


----------



## svk

Picked up a 36” handle for that pickaroon head I found last weekend. Their supply of axe handles was really depleted, I’m wondering if they are going to phase out the House Handle line. 

I see that they (L and M) also are again stocking Oregon chains and certain sizes are now only offered in Oregon. For the last several months they’ve only offered Trilink. Wondering if they are pulling the pin of Trilink? @Philbert


----------



## Philbert

Maybe Oregon made them a good deal?

Philbert


----------



## Lowhog

svk said:


> Picked up a 36” handle for that pickaroon head I found last weekend. Their supply of axe handles was really depleted, I’m wondering if they are going to phase out the House Handle line.
> 
> I see that they (L and M) also are again stocking Oregon chains and certain sizes are now only offered in Oregon. For the last several months they’ve only offered Trilink. Wondering if they are pulling the pin of Trilink? @Philbert


The only place I could find a Oregon chain for my Homelite super ez was online. Mills fleet and L&M was a bust.


----------



## Philbert

Menard's usually has best prices locally on Oregon chain. Spinner and breaker usually can make it fit most saws.

Philbert


----------



## rarefish383

I made a live edge board to hang a few axes on a while back. Finally hung it up in my junk room. Can't believe it, two people can stand in the room without touching, I'm on a cleaning roll.


----------



## Multifaceted

Philbert said:


> Menard's usually has best prices locally on Oregon chain. Spinner and breaker usually can make it fit most saws.
> 
> Philbert



Online, in-store, or both?


----------



## lead farmer

rarefish383 said:


> I made a live edge board to hang a few axes on a while back. Finally hung it up in my junk room. Can't believe it, two people can stand in the room without touching, I'm on a cleaning roll.


That is awesome man.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Online, in-store, or both?


If you need something picked up I’d be happy to help.


----------



## Philbert

Multifaceted said:


> Online, in-store, or both?


I live close to one, so never ordered on-line. Sometimes the price is different on-line.

Philbert 

Philbert


----------



## LondonNeil

rarefish383 said:


> I made a live edge board to hang a few axes on a while back. Finally hung it up in my junk room. Can't believe it, two people can stand in the room without touching, I'm on a cleaning roll.


Smart!


----------



## svk

Hung the pickaroon head I found laying in the road on a House Handle I picked up from L and M.


----------



## LondonNeil

Have you pinned it, or just gone for the friction fit and wedges? Pickaroon heads are allowed a pin I reckon.


----------



## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> Have you pinned it, or just gone for the friction fit and wedges? Pickaroon heads are allowed a pin I reckon.


Only if you make the pin out of Black Walnut!


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> Have you pinned it, or just gone for the friction fit and wedges? Pickaroon heads are allowed a pin I reckon.


Just a wood wedge in this one. It slip fit on nicely and I pounded that wedge way in. And left the top of the handle proud.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> If you need something picked up I’d be happy to help.





Philbert said:


> I live close to one, so never ordered on-line. Sometimes the price is different on-line.
> 
> Philbert
> 
> Philbert



Not sure how I missed these, but thank you. No Menards stores in my region of the mid-Atlantic. Not a big deal either, just askin' is all!


----------



## Lowhog

Walmart had a telescoping sprinkler on the local shelve and listed online. The online price was 4 bucks cheaper so I ordered it online and picked it up at the store same day. It pays to check sometimes.


----------



## svk

On that note I got a two pack of low profile chains for 6 bucks using “same day ship to store”. In store was $22.


----------



## farmer steve

I know this is the restoration thread but here's the axe I won this weekend at the GTG in Tn. I believe it came from England. No name on the head.


----------



## lead farmer

farmer steve said:


> I know this is the restoration thread but here's the axe I won this weekend at the GTG in Tn. I believe it came from England. No name on the head.
> View attachment 678848


Did you ever find my axe head ? [emoji38]

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## LondonNeil

the common but quality vintage English brands are Elwell, Brades and Gilpin


----------



## LondonNeil

out of interest, do you gents perceive any difference in quality between Gransfors bruk, S.A.Wetterlings and Hults Bruk/Hultafors? I've not had them all but sort of for some reason think Hultfors being modern are quality but made to a price, and that HB, SAW and GB are probably all very very similar even though GB are still available and twice the price pf Hultafors and seems to demand twice the price for vintage too. Personally I'd have maybe thought HB and SAW might be more collectable as they aren't made any more. I am frequently surprised by the prices stuff goes for on ebay though. I've been watching and bidding on some ~4lb swedish heads as I have a gap...I have a 1 1/2 no name swede courtesy of Dan, I have a 2 1/2 SAW (recent ish win) I have a 6lb SAW...would be nice to have a 4lber.

I watched a 4 1/2 SAW, nice condition head close with no bids back in september after a listing of £35 +£8 postage.
11th Sept a 4lb SAW on a good haft didn't sell, listed at £48+6
27th a fair but pitted 4lb SAW head only went at £35+6
30th a nice 4lb SAW on good haft went for £44+7
today a pristine 4 1/2lb SAW head sold BIN at £50+0
today I was stunned to see a HB, pristin 4lb Agdor on pristine haft, go at £40+10.50....I bid £39 which i thought would be miles off
another 4 1/2 fair SAW head ends tomorrow and is at £35+6.50....maybe i should bid a little more
Just finished and surprised me....5lb SAW in good condition on its haft, £51+8.50
Talk about variation. blimey. 
Ending tomorrow...cross your fingers for me....no name or marks but old blue paint so fair bet its swedish 4lber in pristine condition its at a lowly £650+6.85 currently with me.
there is also a 3lber marked dy (??) blue paint and epoxy to haft, haft broken head good ends tomorrow £7.50+4.50 currently...maybe i should... hmm

Still, I suppose if ebay was easy and predictable it wouldn't be fun would it. might have to bid on that DY....no idea what that marking is but I'm sure the axe is swedish.

Oh and 12 year old nephew wants to learn to help his dad (my big brother) split logs....my brother and i are thinking a 2.5 - 4lber on a 28" or 32" handle. I was thinking lighter, m brother thinks heavier he's about 5'5 currently and typical of most 12 year olds he's a bean pole growing upwards at speed. My thinking is lighter head and learn to swing it accurately and swiftly...long enough haft to be safe (hit the floor not toes!) so 2*" minimum but maybe 32" as he's growing quickly. His dad is just a little shorter than me at 5'10.5", his mum is errr fairly tall too...5'9" i think so I'm guessing he will end up around 6" in 4 to 5 years....although this handle won't survive that long i'm sure!

hmm..how much to bid on that DY....?


----------



## LondonNeil

AAaaaarrrghhh! 

2nd highest bidder today on all 3 heads! happy to let the 3lb DY go for £18...I'm fairly positive they are Swedish but they are no name/unmarked with the Swede so although £18+6.50 is a fair price there comes a point where you say its not good to go higher...in fact I felt I let ebay suck me in higher than I wanted so i stuck to £12 for the unmarked but blue and probably Scandi 4 1/2 lber....it went for £12.50 + 6.85. After losing out on those 2 I raised my bid on the SAW 4 1/2lber...should have gone higher...I bid £37 and it went for £38+6.50. I might have t accept...£50 or close to is what they are going for currently.


----------



## dancan

Don't worry , the right one will pop up .
You a member at BushcraftUK ?


----------



## LondonNeil

yes, you're right, and its more fun to get a bargain after a bit of effort.
No, not heard of it, is it worth a look?


----------



## dancan

You won't know if you don't look lol


----------



## rarefish383

My cousin called and said he was at an auction and they had a nice Plumb Jersey there, how high did I want to go? I said if it wasn't beat up go $15. Then he called back and said I had to take all the other stuff they threw in with the ax. A pretty cool 8 pound maul that is long and thin, never seen one like it. A grubbing hoe, pick, and a new handle, all for $8. Then it turned out there is a crack in the eye of the Plumb. I'm going to see if I can weld it and grind it flat. Then my hunting buddy called and said the big farm auction today had a near mint Kelly double, and an Echo 8000 with a 30" bar. But, I didn't get to check it out because we went hunting instead. Scrounged this rascal up. I'll get Axe pics ASAP.


----------



## rarefish383

Here's the ax pics. You can see the crack in the Plumb. I think I'll keep the mattocks. The 8 pound maul is kind of cool. I put a standard 8 pound maul in the pic for comparison.


----------



## dancan

Shame about the Plumb but it will make a nice wall hanger .
You're right about the maul , I have 3 of that style but they look like your short one on top .


----------



## rarefish383

I've got a bucket full of the big ones, 6 and 8 pound. That's the first long skinny one I've ever seen.


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## SeMoTony

You guys are cheapskate. Well takes one to know one.
Just means I paid for this one today. Incorrect handle
But the crew was working on the rifle range near by. Met a few and found out how to join & have 300 yards from the bench to dial stuff in
Have a great weekend


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## rarefish383

Hey Tony, welcome to the dark side, now you have something else to look for at sales. When you say wrong handle, do you mean it should have an offset handle for hewing? If it has a single bevel edge I'd say it should be offset. I have seen them with straight handles if they were double beveled.


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## LondonNeil

I like that broad axe, t'is tres smart!

I waswatching a nice SAWetterlings 4.5lb head on ebay, listed a a lot along with a 1lb HB hatchet. i couldn't decide if the 2 together would put people off, or if it would go silly. Baed on stuf recently the Wetterlings was worth about £45 after postge nd litle hatchets always sell well....I reckon the Hults was worth at least another £20. I forgot to gt a bid in...they went for £44 posted. ****!
Ah well....I did gt a bid in early on another SAWetterlings head, a nice 5lber. first bidder. after 3 days someone pushed me up a pound, then it sat...got it tonight at that price £25 posted. ohhhhh yyeaaahh!


----------



## SeMoTony

rarefish383 said:


> Hey Tony, welcome to the dark side, now you have something else to look for at sales. When you say wrong handle, do you mean it should have an offset handle for hewing? If it has a single bevel edge I'd say it should be offset. I have seen them with straight handles if they were double beveled.


Joe the wrong handle was modded for right offset. Handle lacked enough wood to fill the ends of the socket. Another wedge or two wood allow me to trust the head to stay on while putting a serious swing on it. Head flat on log side, character of form on the bark side for hewing rectangular posts. FYI I already had five or six heads with a couple handles, lurking in the shadows of the dark side woodn't ya know?


----------



## rarefish383

SeMoTony said:


> Joe the wrong handle was modded for right offset. Handle lacked enough wood to fill the ends of the socket. Another wedge or two wood allow me to trust the head to stay on while putting a serious swing on it. Head flat on log side, character of form on the bark side for hewing rectangular posts. FYI I already had five or six heads with a couple handles, lurking in the shadows of the dark side woodn't ya know?


Ha Ha, should have figured. I missed a nice one last Saturday because I went hunting. My buddy went to the preview and found , what he said was a near mint, with original handle, Kelly double, 4 pound. It was out in the field with the junk, so it probably went for $5. I was out of the woods in time to make the auction, but the sun came out and it was getting pretty warm. I was trying to get my deer in my shed where it was cool. So, I passed on the sale. There will be plenty more auctions, don't know if I'll ever see another 194 pound deer.


----------



## al-k

you may remember a couple of months ago i made a handle out of maple 
didn't hold


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## rarefish383

OOPS. I made one out of a piece of Ash firewood and it's held up well.


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## SeMoTony

rarefish383 said:


> OOPS. I made one out of a piece of Ash firewood and it's held up well.


I've still got a few handles from auction a few years ago. One of the unseen treasures in two boxes for a buck is No^3 head.

A friend who found a pickerel in the woods with a broke handle & I are gonna have new handles from a stick of shag-bark hickory once I mill the blanks. Enjoy


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## LondonNeil

Pickerel? I thought that was a fish, but they don't have handles


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## svk

LondonNeil said:


> Pickerel? I thought that was a fish, but they don't have handles


In medieval times they once did once cut down a tree with a herring LMFAO!!!!

@chipper1


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## svk

SeMoTony said:


> I've still got a few handles from auction a few years ago. One of the unseen treasures in two boxes for a buck is No^3 head.View attachment 683579
> 
> A friend who found a pickerel in the woods with a broke handle & I are gonna have new handles from a stick of shag-bark hickory once I mill the blanks. Enjoy


Looks great, what pound weight is number 3?


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## chipper1

svk said:


> In medieval times they once did once cut down a tree with a herring LMFAO!!!!
> 
> @chipper1


Why am I getting paged here, things get a little fishy and the first person you think of is me .


----------



## svk

chipper1 said:


> Why am I getting paged here, things get a little fishy and the first person you think of is me .


LOL one time my autocorrect changed Fiskars to Fishers and you brought up the time the Nights who say NI asked for the greatest tree in the forest to be chopped down with....A HERRING!!


----------



## chipper1

svk said:


> LOL one time my autocorrect changed Fiskars to Fishers and you brought up the time the Nights who say NI asked for the greatest tree in the forest to be chopped down with....A HERRING!!


Oh, now it's all perfectly clear, even if I have totally forgotten that conversation lol.


----------



## svk

chipper1 said:


> Oh, now it's all perfectly clear, even if I have totally forgotten that conversation lol.



One of the best slapstick movies ever. Right up there with Blazing Saddles.


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## rarefish383

Went by the Tuesday auction. They had a pretty nice old Craftsmen double in a barn. Dull as a rock, but not chipped. I was there at 2PM and the ax was in barn 4, due up at 5pm. Didn't feel like waiting 3 hours for 5 bucks. Wish there was something else there, but that was it today. Not a single chainsaw.


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## rarefish383

Was over the fellows house where I shot the big deer last week. He had a cool little hatchet and I couldn't quite make out the name on it. I zoomed in and took a pic, it was Peugeot Freres & co. I've got pics but Imgur is messed up and I can't get to my images. Can we post pics here without a third party host? I'm getting tired of hosts with hosts of problems.


----------



## chipper1

rarefish383 said:


> Was over the fellows house where I shot the big deer last week. He had a cool little hatchet and I couldn't quite make out the name on it. I zoomed in and took a pic, it was Peugeot Freres & co. I've got pics but Imgur is messed up and I can't get to my images. Can we post pics here without a third party host? I'm getting tired of hosts with hosts of problems.


You can Joe.
Just pull up this thread on your phone or computer and then hit "upload a file" below, then select the picture. After it loads to the page you can choose to leave it as a file someone can select, a thumnail, or full page.


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## rarefish383

Thanks chipper.


----------



## rarefish383




----------



## chipper1

rarefish383 said:


> Thanks chipper.


For sure.
I usually have a page open on my phone in a couple forums, that way I can do all my typing on my laptop(when I have it with me) and then I refresh the page on my phone, then I load all the pictures. After that I will reload the page on my laptop and select where I want the picture to show up at on the page(sometimes I load a few pictures with writing in-between) as I find it to be easier to do on the laptop. 
Other times I will screenshot pictures I want to post from my google account and send them to my desktop as that's the easiest place for me to find them. A nice thing about that is I can cut the pictures a bit which reduces the size a lot.
Since were talking about pictures I found this one the other day, never seen a scared chainsaw before, but this guy is like .


Just to play around I took a screenshot of it a bit smaller, how many people would guess what this is .


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## chipper1

rarefish383 said:


> View attachment 684663


That's a nice little hatchet.


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## dancan

Nice hatchet , I didn't know about the Peugeot's so I had to do a bit of looking .

http://www.traditional-tools.com/axe-tool-pdf-catalog-archives/


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## rarefish383

Had to pass up another really nice Plumb single. Original handle and 90% original paint. It was 4:30 and I was supposed to be home by 5. Then my cousin called to help him find a deer. He's red, green color blind. They keep putting the axes in the last barn that gets sold so you have to hang around for 5 hours, or come back. It's a 20 mile round trip, so if I come back, I'll have ten bucks in the ax before I place a bid. Getting 10 MPG sucks.


----------



## lead farmer

rarefish383 said:


> Had to pass up another really nice Plumb single. Original handle and 90% original paint. It was 4:30 and I was supposed to be home by 5. Then my cousin called to help him find a deer. He's red, green color blind. They keep putting the axes in the last barn that gets sold so you have to hang around for 5 hours, or come back. It's a 20 mile round trip, so if I come back, I'll have ten bucks in the ax before I place a bid. Getting 10 MPG sucks.


I just bought 4 old saws at a sale an wasn't there. Just tell the auction Ear your top price. Said he does that a lot for folks that cant be there

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## rarefish383

lead farmer said:


> I just bought 4 old saws at a sale an wasn't there. Just tell the auction Ear your top price. Said he does that a lot for folks that cant be there
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


This auctioneer will take "left at" bids, I don't know if he'll do it on $5 dollar items, I should ask.


----------



## spyder62

Ttt


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## LondonNeil

Woop woop. Finally got a break on ebay and was the only bidder on a nice looking 4 1/2 lb Huts Bruk head, mine for £35 posted. yay! I need to get round to some serious hanging....I've errr 4 heads needing handles, and 2 others that have come loose and need some work! Still, winter is here and IF I find any time then its good to spend some in the garage working on these projects.


----------



## 95custmz

Got this axe today at an auction for $2.50. The only marking on the head looks like the number 8. Anyone have any clue as to who manufactured the axe?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Multifaceted

95custmz said:


> Got this axe today at an auction for $2.50. The only marking on the head looks like the number 8. Anyone have any clue as to who manufactured the axe?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




No idea, brother. Could be a government crew piece, sometimes they were made on contract and to cut costs wouldn't receive the Makers stamp but would receive some generic number stamp from a die that denoted who knows what. Looks pretty old, clearly a Michigan pattern. Nice find!


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## rarefish383

Several years ago I was just cruising through websites trying to find anything I could about axes. I found a copy of a flyer with "Makers Marks". They were all pretty simple, like a sickle, or an X, or a tree, and they had what maker produced it and what buyer it was for. By the time I figured out how to copy and paste, it was gone. I've tried every search question I could think of and have never found it. Still looking.


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## 95custmz

Multifaceted said:


> No idea, brother. Could be a government crew piece, sometimes they were made on contract and to cut costs wouldn't receive the Makers stamp but would receive some generic number stamp from a die that denoted who knows what. Looks pretty old, clearly a Michigan pattern. Nice find!


Thanks for the reply. I have searched the internet, to no avail. Looks to be the original handle, as well. Guess I'll consider it rare and worth lots of $. LOL


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## kevin j

95custmz said:


> Thanks for the reply. I have searched the internet, to no avail. Looks to be the original handle, as well. Guess I'll consider it rare and worth lots of $. LOL



specially made for chopping down black walnut trees......


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## LondonNeil

ooookkaaayyyy. I need to get some pictures, and get the kitchen scales out, but, well I'm confused. I have a SAWetterlings head to hang, which is mark '6' I assume six pounds, its fairly large. I just got a Hults Bruk head too, which is clearly marked '2.0/4.5' which i assume is 2kg/4.5lbs. Nooowww....the HB is considerably bigger than the SAW. wtf? considerably bigger! I can only weight them, but I guess the 6 is more like 3.5. Confused. Oh and has anyone hung a 4.5lb HB? the eye is ******* massive! I intend to order another smedbergs, which come fairly fat, but i still think I may need packing! I think it might be an utter pig to hang. I have some weighing, some measuring and then some pondering on haft lengths to do.


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## LondonNeil

@Multifaceted is the Arvika a particularly large eye? I just read something that suggests it is bigger than the normal 2x7/8" sweedish eye. might be an option.


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## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> @Multifaceted is the Arvika a particularly large eye? I just read something that suggests it is bigger than the normal 2x7/8" sweedish eye. might be an option.



It's a little on the big side for Single Bits, but not by much compared to other American patterns I'm used to. Definitely cannot buy a handle for this at the Hardware store here, would need to be custom made or special order. Here are the eye dimensions on mine, hope this helps!


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## LondonNeil

Ahh excellent! Thank you Clarence, that will be big enough! It can be bought too,

https://woodsmithexperience.co.uk/shop/product/handle-hultafors-arvika-5-star/


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## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> Ahh excellent! Thank you Clarence, that will be big enough! It can be bought too,
> 
> https://woodsmithexperience.co.uk/shop/product/handle-hultafors-arvika-5-star/




Very nice! I look forward to to seeing some of your finished pieces. Cheers!


----------



## NCPT

Multifaceted said:


> It's a little on the big side for Single Bits, but not by much compared to other American patterns I'm used to. Definitely cannot buy a handle for this at the Hardware store here, would need to be custom made or special order. Here are the eye dimensions on mine, hope this helps!


That is an excellent fit, nice.

Done the axe this weekend and just finished the bush axe tonight. Brushing up because I got two I'm putting together for xmas gifts....one for my poppa and one for my buddy that gave me most of these heads.


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## NCPT

Here's the bush axe before and after, I had to round the bottom of the edge because of a split.


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## NCPT

Here's a hatchet I did yesterday.


----------



## H-Ranch

A buddy asked me if I could make a few ax throwing targets for him and this is what I had available. 18" pine and 21" maple rounds all about 6" thick. Any suggestions for the best target wood and other criteria?


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## Philbert

I would think that you want softer wood; don't want the flying axe to glance off. Might want to put a ring of steel banding around the perimeter (back several inches from the front edge), to keep it from splitting?

Philbert


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## H-Ranch

Philbert said:


> I would think that you want softer wood; don't want the flying axe to glance off. Might want to put a ring of steel banding around the perimeter (back several inches from the front edge), to keep it from splitting?
> 
> Philbert


I was thinking just thicker to prevent splitting but you make me think maybe a ratchet strap would work at least during throwing without much risk to the ax.


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## rarefish383

I use Black Walnut slabs. If I cut rounds for others I like to use Tulip Poplar about 6 inches thick by 30" round.


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## al-k

rarefish383 said:


> I use Black Walnut slabs. If I cut rounds for others I like to use Tulip Poplar about 6 inches thick by 30" round.


Looking at the fence you have mist a couple of times.


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## rarefish383

al-k said:


> Looking at the fence you have mist a couple of times.


yep


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## Lowhog

Found this hewing axe today in my travels marked Phila tool company. Hand forged or forged with a power hammer for sure. single bevel on the right side so I'm guessing right handed starting on the left end of a log. Heads a little loose I'll drive the wedge a little bit and give it a soaking in blo. Some dingy sharpened the edge with a disk grinder, I'll fix that up also. Not sure of the age.


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## Lowhog

Looking good!


----------



## Backyard Lumberjack

well, i'll be darned! another swell thread... I had no idea existed. will ck out all the restoration work when I get a chance... lil bit later. i have maybe a dozen axes, maybe bit more... I like axes quite a bit. double lumberjack specials... all the way down to the lowly, but infamous... camp axe! some better than others.  I have had some of my axes over 40 years... and have many of then restored or in process... one way or another. film at 11:00!



great pix here, btw ~


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## rarefish383

Lowhog said:


> Found this hewing axe today in my travels marked Phila tool company. Hand forged or forged with a power hammer for sure. single bevel on the right side so I'm guessing right handed starting on the left end of a log. Heads a little loose I'll drive the wedge a little bit and give it a soaking in blo. Some dingy sharpened the edge with a disk grinder, I'll fix that up also. Not sure of the age.View attachment 691266
> View attachment 691269


I read somewhere that the single edged hewing axes, with the diamond ears on top and bottom, where made so the head could be flipped over, making them right or left handed.


----------



## Lowhog

rarefish383 said:


> I read somewhere that the single edged hewing axes, with the diamond ears on top and bottom, where made so the head could be flipped over, making them right or left handed.


I never thought of that.


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## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> I read somewhere that the single edged hewing axes, with the diamond ears on top and bottom, where made so the head could be flipped over, making them right or left handed.



+1 I've heard of this as well.


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## Lowhog

I can't find a thing on Philadelphia tool company.


----------



## dancan

Well ,




That was my favorite maul 
So a stop in at LeeValley and I picked up a replacement haft . I found it quite reasonable at 22$ .
First up , how to deal with these ,




The drill was my friend 
















The fit on the replacement haft was quite good out of the box .
Here if is on the first run in .




After just a bit of woodfile work
















So a bit of work with my trusty SwissArmy and all the varnish is gone , I'll oil it up over the next couple of days .


----------



## NCPT

dancan said:


> Well ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was my favorite maul
> So a stop in at LeeValley and I picked up a replacement haft . I found it quite reasonable at 22$ .
> First up , how to deal with these ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill was my friend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit on the replacement haft was quite good out of the box .
> Here if is on the first run in .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After just a bit of woodfile work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a bit of work with my trusty SwissArmy and all the varnish is gone , I'll oil it up over the next couple of days .


Nice work and nice fit, especially with the double metal wedges....I'm trying to figure out how to drive one round wedge cleanly. 

Should have spent about 5 minutes with a wire wheel on that head though.....make em shine lol.


----------



## dancan

Thanks !
While shiny things get my attention I just don't like my axes shiny , I find that the black finish and what factory paint that remains keeps them from rusting .


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## Del_

It's been 6 or 7 years...maybe as many a 9 years ago that I slipped this axe head over a small hickory tree. I came across it a couple of months ago and made the cut.


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## lead farmer

Del_ said:


> It's been 6 or 7 years...maybe as many a 9 years ago that I slipped this axe head over a small hickory tree. I came across it a couple of months ago and made the cut.
> 
> View attachment 692754
> 
> 
> View attachment 692751
> 
> 
> View attachment 692752
> 
> 
> View attachment 692753
> 
> 
> View attachment 692755
> 
> 
> View attachment 692756


That shouldn't come loose anytime soon. [emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Del_

lead farmer said:


> That shouldn't come loose anytime soon. [emoji16]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



I hope not. I did in on a whim and have a few more I may set up this winter.

I sure hope it works out well. Takes a long time.


----------



## lead farmer

Del_ said:


> I hope not. I did in on a whim and have a few more I may set up this winter.
> 
> I sure hope it works out well. Takes a long time.


Yes it does...[emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## rarefish383

Del, that is down right cool!


----------



## Philbert

Del_ said:


> It's been 6 or 7 years...maybe as many a 9 years ago that I slipped this axe head over a small hickory tree./QUOTE]
> Not exactly a model for mass production, but a very organic solution!
> 
> Philbert


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## Multifaceted

Found this back in September while on vacation deep in the mountains of West Virginia. Was at an antique/consignment shop we got lucky in last year. Pretty sure it is the original haft, but appeared to be used very little, which is a crying shame... but I'm about to change that! Cruiser axes are just a joy to use. Good balance, capable weight but not too heavy.






In front of the woodstove at our cabin in a holler in Appalachia.






Originally I was only going to re-work the grind, but after closer inspection I noticed that there was the tiniest amount of separation between the wood and where the steel was seated. I got a hardwood drift and lightly tried to drive the haft from the top (which someone had driven a steel stepped wedge center and perpendicular to the bits. Sure as shite, it come out. No bueno. Looking closer there was a fair amount of real estate left on the shoulders, so I decided to remove the haft and re-hang it. The haft had a slash grain, but consistent runout. The main thing was that it felt great, nice and slim, good ergos - I had to keep it, and the years of wear on it just looks great.






I spent maybe an hour driving the haft out after cutting the stepped wedge out with a Dremel and cut-off wheel. The wooden wedges would not budge, so in fear of damaging the wood trying to pry it out with screw fasteners, I just pounded it out with a broad-faced chisel (not the cutting type) and a hardwood drift that I made from a rootball. When the S.O.B. finally came off, I noticed that it had been cross-wedged... which is why later someone drove in a steel wedge the same way when it started coming loose. The wood was pretty dried out, but seemed serviceable. I decided to cross wedge it again. For additional security, I decided to also add a circular safety wedge... in hindsight I should have just left it because it was bulging out at the top pretty well. When I drove the circular wedge in it just made a mess of the original haft eye quadrants... they just came apart. Again, the eye wood was pretty darned dry, and if left proud a glancing blow to the eye might have knocked a big chip out that would travel deep into the eye creating a void that will cause it to come loose... So rather than scrap the haft and hang it on a new handle, I counter sunk the wedge with a sacrificial socket, then ground it down flush with an angle grinder and 40 grit flap disc. Touched up the metal with some gun blue so it blended with the overall years-worn look.






Here is the top of the eye. After I took this pic I put the head in a bath of 50/50 mix of Turpentine and Boiled Linseed Oil.






Here it is work-ready in front of a holzhausen of black cherry that is succumbing to the effects of gravity (it's sitting slightly slanted on a hill) - but we'll like be buring this stack early next month, so not worried if it collapses (it probably won't).






Both bits were hand filed.






Nice and tight seat on the shoulders.






22.5° on the swamping/utility bit (right of stamp).






~18° on the keen side (left of stamp) - my bevel gauge only goes from 20° to 17.5°, but it's not quite 17.5°, nor is it 20°, so I'm guestimating it to be 18°.


----------



## LondonNeil

great work as always! and great pics.

can someone suggest somewhere i can read about the various double bit axes? they just dont exist over here so i see terms like cruiser and have no idea on meaning.


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> great work as always! and great pics.
> 
> can someone suggest somewhere i can read about the various double bit axes? they just dont exist over here so i see terms like cruiser and have no idea on meaning.



If I knew of a comprehensive collection of info on double bitted axes I'd surely share it with you, but like many things of yore, they are lost in time and sequestered away to various oral tradition, publications, history books, and or other tomes. From what I have gathered, they have appeared throughout history in Europe and Asia Minor, but gained a prominence when they were introduced during the rise of the lumber industry in the early United States. First introduced by local smiths, eventually larger foundries began to produce them on a large scale in Maine and Pennsylvania , and thusly distributed them in those regions where they began to grow in popularity, then quickly began to spread. The idea was to have "two axes in one", either two similarly ground keen edges, or each edge with a different grind for specific tasks (e.g. one for felling or chopping clean, knot-free wood, the other for utility or swamping)

The sizes, weight, and shapes began to change as they reached the far edges of the continent, developed and suited for the timber being harvested.

The "Cruiser" axe is one that I define as between 2.25-2.5 lb (1.0-1.125 kg), has two bits and is between 26-30" (66-76 cm) in length. In the height of the lumber industry in the late 19th century United States and Canada, particularly in the Pacific Northwest - timber cruising was an integral part of early sustainable logging. Timber cruisers, who surveyed the land estimating the amount of harvest-able lumber from a stand, often on horseback would carry there small, lightweight double-bit axes for various chores and survival. Sometimes called a "saddle axe", they were as common as a flask or rifle when cruising the pristine evergreen forests of the Pacific Northwest.

Here is some good reading material on Timber Cruising (PDF warning): https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/fsbdev2_025021.pdf


----------



## Jethro 2t sniffer

Hey guys been reading the thread and wow some of you really know your axes any way I'm very green when it comes to axes so I bought this little hults bruk 2-1/4 head and going to have a go at hanging my 1st axe. Would any of you have an idea on its age? It has epoxy in the top.

Have watched a huge amount of buckin Billy's videos and think I should be ok for a crack at it. Is 28inch too long? Its very hard to find a 24 or 26inch here can shop online but can't check the grain or anything though.


----------



## dancan

I think you'll be fine at 26"
Here's the 2 1/4 Wetterlings that I rehung on a 26"


----------



## Jethro 2t sniffer

Ok cool thanks I'll have a look and see what the hardware stores have 28 seems to be the shortest around here. Nice axe by the way. I feel this little axe will lead to many many more


----------



## dancan

Multifaceted said:


> I would be happy to, have done this a number of times now. It gives an ax a natural looking patina or 'straight from the forge' look to it when the original patina has been removed during restoration. Because it is also a passive oxidation layer, it acts as a barrier for further oxidation and protects the metal. Plus, it looks great... I don't really like the look of a bright steel ax head and they always seem to be prone to surface rust if not kept up on.
> 
> Anyway, here is a run down. First, the steel is brightened up with a wire brush cup wheel and sandpaper or grinder (I use a pneumatic die grinder, just be careful not to heat up the bit and draw the temper). You want to remove any deep pitted rust, old paint, or detritus. After that, I put on Nitrile gloves and de-grease the steel with acetone. Keep the gloves on because the oil from your skin will cause an uneven finish with the rust.
> 
> Once the steel is de-greased it is ready to put in the salt bath solution made up of 3% hydrogen peroxide table salt. In the past, I've used cheap non-stick baking pans for the salt bath, but this time I used a 2 gallon stock pot that I was OK with ruining. The peroxide is then heated up near boiling (it is mostly water, so the typical ~212/100 C/F temps) - when it starts to look like it's about to roll, start adding the salt. I'll add a lot, enough to where it starts to accumulate on the bottom, but do stir it in to dissolve. Once the solution is again near boiling, I'll remove it from the heat and add the ax. This time I also used a wire coat hanger (sorry, Mommy dearest) to suspend the steel and keep it from touching the bottom of the pot. In the past, having it touch the bottom resulted in an uneven rust coating. Here is what it looked like during a dry-fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the steel is immersed into the solution, the rusting happens very rapidly and the solution will start to bubble. The vapors emitted during the process are corrosive, so I prefer to do this outside on a propane burner. After about 5-10 minutes, the reaction will start to slow down. From here I will then remove the steel from the solution, dunk it in a bucket of water and then use an old toothbrush to scrub the rust to even out the coating. Then dry and return to the salt bath. Make sure you keep your gloves on! I'll do this 2-3 times or until I'm satisfied with the rust layer.
> 
> During this process I'll have another stainless pot with rocks or a brick on the bottom, then fill it with distilled water, enough so that it will fully submerge the ax head. This water is heated up to boiling. The rocks or brick is to keep the steel from coming in contact with the bottom of the pot, because this will be kept boiling and that will get the steel hot enough to draw the temper and ruin it. Obviously, the bottom of the pot will be much closer to the heat source and will thus be much more hot than the surrounding boiling water. After your rust layer is established, rinse off and then put the ax into the boiling distilled water. If not already, the rust layer will start to turn from a horrible brown color to a black. Be careful when placing the steel onto the rocks or bricks so not to scratch the new coating you've put on.
> 
> After about 5-10 minutes of boiling in the distilled water, you can remove it, it will be hot enough to dry itself at this point, then return it into the salt solution. Try to keep it warm if you can. I'll repeat this 2-3 more times and build layer upon layer of oxidation until I'm satisfied with the coating. Once you are satisfied, let cool to touch, then lightly scrub with some extra fine 0000 steel wool to remove the dust. At this point I also like to add a thin coating of BLO, the polymerization of the drying oil further protects the finish making it that much more durable. That's it!
> 
> This is a process that has been kicked around for the past 10-15 years, but to give credit where credit is due, I first came across the process in a thread on Bushcraft USA forum:
> https://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/rust-bluing-a-tutorial.16456/



This needed to be brought back up to the top !


----------



## dancan

My best guess for age would be starting from the early 70's and the epoxy was called Agdofix .


----------



## Jethro 2t sniffer

dancan said:


> My best guess for age would be starting from the early 70's and the epoxy was called Agdofix .



Hey that's close enough for me cheers.


----------



## lead farmer

Jethro 2t sniffer said:


> Ok cool thanks I'll have a look and see what the hardware stores have 28 seems to be the shortest around here. Nice axe by the way. I feel this little axe will lead to many many more


Specifically if you hang out in here. These guys will corrupt a fella. [emoji16]

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## Jethro 2t sniffer

lead farmer said:


> Specifically if you hang out in here. These guys will corrupt a fella. [emoji16]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



Haha I think its already to late I can't stop looking for old axes now something about them the feel the smell the history. Some kind of magnetic energy going on


----------



## Trapper_Pete

I remembered I had an ax in the garage I picked up at a rummage sale for the grand sum of $2 I knew it needed a handle the old one dry grey and cracked.

looks like a 1960s or 1970s Collins Michigan pattern it had the sticker but was not the blue painted. bare head wight 3 pounds 7.2 oz so probably started life as a 3.5# head

the plan was make a falling length ax since it is going to be 90% wedge driving and cut it off at about 28 inches it is currently 35 1/2 from the top top the head to the end of the handle. I have a plumb 36inch that I have been using.
I figured I would leave it and try it a few times and see where it felt good to cut the handle off at.


----------



## lead farmer

Trapper_Pete said:


> I remembered I had an ax in the garage I picked up at a rummage sale for the grand sum of $2 I knew it needed a handle the old one dry grey and cracked.
> 
> looks like a 1960s or 1970s Collins Michigan pattern it had the sticker but was not the blue painted. bare head wight 3 pounds 7.2 oz so probably started life as a 3.5# head
> 
> the plan was make a falling length ax since it is going to be 90% wedge driving and cut it off at about 28 inches it is currently 35 1/2 from the top top the head to the end of the handle. I have a plumb 36inch that I have been using.
> I figured I would leave it and try it a few times and see where it felt good to cut the handle off at.
> 
> View attachment 695957
> View attachment 695959
> View attachment 695960
> View attachment 695961
> View attachment 695962


Lookin good man

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## Trapper_Pete

thanks

spot on 5 pounds finished at the current length.

is there a particular reasoning for one length over the other or is it more about short to ease transport and cut weight but long and heavy enough to still drive a wedge?


----------



## Multifaceted

For wedge pounding, a shorter handle will be easier to carry and/or wield. For actually felling a tree or bucking logs with an axe, it depends. My preferred axe for bucking is 4.4 lb on a 23" stick when standing on the ground, and for felling is around 30-32". For bucking while atop a log, longer handles can be an advantage, but too long 36+" and it just get's in the way.


----------



## Trapper_Pete

I have have no intentions of bucking logs with this ax , mostly just drive poly wedge.


----------



## rarefish383

I hope this isn't the horrible brown color you get with the salt bath. I rather like it, and it took a couple hours to do.


----------



## Trapper_Pete

what did you use for the metal treatment ?


----------



## Multifaceted

Trapper_Pete said:


> I have have no intentions of bucking logs with this ax , mostly just drive poly wedge.



Here's my fallers axe for wedge pounding and grubbing, it's a 3.75 lb Michigan that I hung on a 28" straight shaft and I carry it in an aluminum scabbard on the back of my saw belt.


----------



## svk

I received my restored cruiser axe from @Multifaceted today. Will post up some pics when I have the phone. Very nice, especially the bluing and razor sharp edges!!!!


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> I received my restored cruiser axe from @Multifaceted today. Will post up some pics when I have the phone. Very nice, especially the bluing and razor sharp edges!!!!



I already have some pictures I can post if you'd like. Did some tests with it and took photo evidence. One thing that I may not have mentioned — left of the Old Timer stamp is your Keen bit, right is the wider angle swamping/utility bit. 22.5° and 27.5° respectively. Let me know how it chops!


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> I already have some pictures I can post if you'd like. Did some tests with it and took photo evidence. One thing that I may not have mentioned — left of the Old Timer stamp is your Keen bit, right is the wider angle swamping/utility bit. 22.5° and 27.5° respectively. Let me know how it chops!


Sure go ahead and throw up the pics. I will post when I use it. If I can get into my cabin this weekend I will give it a try.


----------



## Multifaceted

Here is what I was originally sent back in April (Sorry it took so long, been one of those years)





Here it is after grinding down the extreme roundness of the bits. I had to remove quite a lot of steel to straighten both sides.













I forgot to take pictures of the grinds before I did the black oxidation finish. Perhaps I was braindead from the hour or so I spent grinding both sides on a low-speed sander with a 60 -grit belt. The reflection and light gradient can kind of show the new grinds...









And here is the finished product amid a pile of ash logs.


----------



## Multifaceted

Decided on a 22.5 degree grind for the main cutting bit, the keen edge (left side of 'Old Timer' marking)





Then 27.5 degrees on the swamping/utility bit (right side of the mark).





First chop into some maple limbs, bites deep. I wasn't really swinging too hard either because it was just laying about waist height in a pile of logs.





4th successive chop...





Turned over and cut cleanly through - nothing to it!





Here's a decent sized limb node to test the swamping bit (wider grind)





Normally I'd make a perpendicular chop to the limb, but I was curious at how far it would bite.









Three swipes, seems to do OK.





Now onto some splitting. Straight grained ash log? One strike, 80% split with a loud pop.





Turned on its side to finish the job. Done.


----------



## Trapper_Pete

Multifaceted , do you grind the bevels with a belt sander ?


----------



## Multifaceted

Trapper_Pete said:


> Multifaceted , do you grind the bevels with a belt sander ?



It depends. If I'm doing a substantial re-profiling and there is a lot of stock removal, then I'll use a belt sander at low speed with low grit paper. It is very, very easy to heat up the metal enough to draw the temper if you're not careful. If you're not experienced with metal grinding, then I would not suggest it. Now, as in this case where I did grind with a sander, I would go slowly keeping my fingers close to the edge feeling the heat build up. When it gets too hot for my fingers I'll stop, let air cool for a minute, or dunk in some quench water, then continue grinding. I'll get it close with the sander, then finish up with a bastard file, then hone with stones.

If the amount of material that needs to be grinded is fairly low, then I'll just hand file it with a double cut bastard mill file, then hone with stones.


----------



## Multifaceted

Here's a video on grinding with power tools from a talented and upcoming (and young) blacksmith known for his axes:


----------



## Trapper_Pete

I am familiar with keeping fingers close and water at the grinding stone I used to grind my own tool bits for the lathe.

I need to get a good belt sander so many times I find my self wanting one but they are not cheap.

a friend makes knives and has some very nice 2x72 variable speed grinders , I just need to-get around to having the cash and building one .


----------



## Multifaceted

Trapper_Pete said:


> I am familiar with keeping fingers close and water at the grinding stone I used to grind my own tool bits for the lathe.
> 
> I need to get a good belt sander so many times I find my self wanting one but they are not cheap.
> 
> a friend makes knives and has some very nice 2x72 variable speed grinders , I just need to-get around to having the cash and building one .



Very well, then - seems as if you're experienced. I would love a good 2x72 belt grinder for my aspiring blacksmithing operation, but alas... They are NOT cheap! For what it's worth, my belt sander is a stationary POS from Harbor Freight. If you oress too hard on it you'll stop the belt, that's really the only thing I use it for because it simply can't be overly aggressive unless you just keep holding the piece to the grit.

That being said, it's not common for me to need to grind and axe with a sander, it's only in case where I need to do some major repair and remove a lot of stock. Most axes, even if never grinded before have at least a decent enough angle to work your primary and secondary bevels without having to file away to much steel.


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## LondonNeil

**** me, that is a beautiful axe! stunning work!


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## rarefish383

Trapper_Pete said:


> what did you use for the metal treatment ?


If you are interested in the browning process, it's pretty easy. The product I used was Birchwood Casey Plumb Brown for Rifle Barrels. The steel has to be clean and degreased. All Birchwood Casey products. You heat it to 275 degrees or till it sizzles when you wipe it on. Rinse it and repeat till you get the color you like. The ax I used was something I found that was a solid chunk of rust. If I picked a nicer ax it would have looked a lot better. Here's a couple pices of the ax as I found it and as I ground the rust off. I took about 8 ounces of steel off the ax.


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## rarefish383

Here's my Plumb Cruiser Multifaceted reground and hung for me. One pretty little ax.


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## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> **** me, that is a beautiful axe! stunning work!



"**** me" is the least British phrase I've ever read, ha ha

Thanks, mate - it was a fun project to work on. Any luck with your project axes as of late? Let me know if you're looking for an American double, might be able to hook you up with one if interested.


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## LondonNeil

Ha ha, we don't all sound like the Queen or a cockney...although my North east London/Essex accent might sound Cockney to you guys.

I'm embarassed to say I've made no progress owth hanging heads...I've got loads to do...The Brades criterion hatchet head is loose - needs removing, remove a shoulder on the haft and reseat, Stil haven't got the True emper Jersey hung, nor the 4.5lb HB, nor the number 6 SAW....oddly my brother hasn't het finished off thr haft on the other 6lb SAW. the Gilpin felling head 4lber needs hanging, the 2 3/4lb Elwell came loose and I've popped it off but not re hung it yet....the other Elwhell I bought still needs hanging.. OH dear, it really is bad! In my defence... I spent a lot of tiem last year at mum and Dad's after he was diagnosed with bowel cancer. e passed away at the end of October so now spending alot of time at mum's. When I am at home my 3 year old and 16 month old girls keep me busy (and smiling!). Projects have taken a back seat and seem less important next to family obvs, they are NOT forgotten though ...oh no.

Oh boy, would I love an American Double! I've been wtching too much Buckin' probably, but I love the look and would love to try one as a splitter! Doubles are unheard of here, the only one I could find to buy would be a new GBA...£254 plus postage...hahahhahahahaha...errr...no. No I would LOVE an American double!

BY the way, I reckon you do better work than Buckin', I think he looks to hang his axes very very well, but that's all he does, other than sharpen. You think about each axe and your efforts in regrinding then finishing....wow. BTW, do you use your Arvika much?


----------



## Multifaceted

Wait a cotton pickin' minute, you mean to tell me that not everyone in the UK speaks with Received Pronunciation like on the BBC ???

Ha ha, I'm only teasing. You might be surprised to learn that I'm actually very familiar with regional dialects and accents in the English speaking world... I even do impersonations too  Though, I'm still working on my Geordie dialect.... (needs work) — I'm fascinated by other cultures, and when they pique my interest I try to learn as much as possible. "*** me" just sounds like something an American would say, but I guess I was wrong!

I totally understand your situation, the two axes I recently posted were the first I've done (or completed, rather) since probably March of last year. I also had 'one of those years' in 2018, the only difference with me is that we don't have any kids yet (working on it, though  ) - but I totally empathize with you. I lost my father in October of 2017, had to execute the handling of his estate, sell this house, etc. Just closed the estate in December last month. Then in July I had my injury, and subsequently the surgery and recovery... which is going remarkably well! Sometimes, life gets in the way. If a project takes me 6 months, then it takes me 6 months, perhaps longer. What are you going to do? Always loads to do, though... the work never ends as I'm sure you know.

Wow, thanks for the compliment! I think Billy does some good work, but yes, he doesn't take the time and attention to the haft contours nor the grinds. I mean, you can take a dull ax and sharpen it enough to dry shave, but if the grind is not right it will be a very inefficient chopper. That's where I like to leave my mark, a tailored work-ready ax that will chop efficiently and feel good in your hands.

The Arvika gets used every once in a while. I just started swinging axes again about 4 weeks ago, haven't since July when I blew out my ACL. I was using it again the other day warming up for the 2019 Ax Cordwood Challenge, and while it is indeed sharp and narrow, with custom ground bevels in the cheeks of the heel and toe - it does however need an improved grind angle. Right now its got a 23 degrees secondary bevel, and I plan to grind it down to around 15 degrees, then do a primary 30 degree micro bevel on the actual cutting edge. That should make a mockery of the hardwood I'm chopping. The thing is that the hardened steel on that ax is incredibly hard, so I'm going to have to devote several hours to grinding the cheeks down. Just haven't gotten around to it yet. Right now it's tiring when chopping with it as it down't bite as deep as it should. My 2kg Basque ax, 2.5lb cruiser, and my vintage HB 1kg are my go-to axes. I'm really digging my Siberian Toporsib ax too, but I think I need to thin the haft even more as it still feels bulky in my hands. 

I'll keep my eye out for a double in my travels. Do you have a preference in weight? Most I find are around 3.5 lb, but I prefer the cruiser weight of 2.25-2.75 lb. They're just more practical for the modern man looking to work the old way.


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## LondonNeil

I used to visit Dallas and LA lots with work and New Jersey once. My impression was that the average American is much cleaner mouthed than the average Brit guy.... Although Hollywood gives a different picture. Still... Believe Hollywood and all Brits sound like Mary Poppins or **** can dyke's attrocious cockney!

Search on YouTube for a clip of atv programme called ' the only way is Essex' .or ' Towie'. That's more my sound.... It's not an attractive accent. My fiancee is Scouse (from Liverpool) so what the kids will sound like....hmmm.
Yeah best of luck with Geordie.... Try anything with Jimmy Nail in for a thick Geordie... errr .' Auf viedersein pet' . It's a comedy from the 80s, . The character 'Oz' is Jimmy.

Glad the knee recovery is going well, fingers crossed for you.

I guess the Arvika isn't meant for long sessions... Or doesn't take long to race through a competition log.

Yes I like watching Billy and learn from him, he knows his stuff, but you seem more a Steven Edholm kind of axe man, a more rounded expert!

Oh man, I'd love any double! A splitter rather than a super thin chopper, and 3.5lb is a nice weight for that and my wood. but bearing postage charge in mind lighter may be more suitable!


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## rarefish383

O, Bugger it all. I got a couple double doubles, meanin more an one o the same, but different, that are the bees knees. I'll take a butchers hook at the bits an bobs an see what I can find. If every thing goes tickety-bo I'll pull one from the odds n sods, and get it up to my mate in PA. Then I'm off to Bedfordshire, movin all this snow from one place to another place has me Plumb tuckered.


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## LondonNeil

Very good


----------



## Jethro 2t sniffer

Pom's,Scot's,Irish,Aussie's,South African's us kiwis too all have the filthiest of potty mouths imaginable where every sentence has at least one F##k in it if not a few especially in the regular average Joe tradie world. My aunt she's from London used to drive a bus any way she's really bad her parenting was interesting "Thomas for F$$k sake if you don't get your skinny lil F***in ars in hear now and clean this F***in S**T up I'm gonna cut your stinky lil F**kin willy off and feed it to the dog" and that was just normal to her 7 year old Haha really good kid now doing a plumbing apprenticeship.

Any way on to axe questions the handles here are shocking. Badly bent and way too skinny soo was wondering if you guys had any online options? The thought of not being able to look at before buying is bugging me. I thought about buying an actual Hults bruk handle to match but they very pricey I don't mind paying for it if nice though


----------



## Multifaceted

Wow, I don't believe I'm an expert, let's just say I'm more of an enthusiast!

You say your dialect is awful, well then we must be birds of a feather because I'm originally from Baltimore, Maryland (pronounced 'Meh'rlin"), home to one of the worst dialects known to the English language, ha ha. Here's an example (and yes, it is that nasally) — even on the popular HBO series, The Wire, which took place in the Baltimore, not even a talented British actor could get the accent right. Around Baltimore, if you go to Ocean City, which is a beach on the mid-Atlantic coast and tourist destination on the Delmarva peninsula, everyone always says: "Gow'n downey owe'shin"; or in plain English: "going down to the ocean"... Ha ha, Van Dykes accent was the worst! So bad, he actually had to apologize for after decades... poor fellow. I had never known about the Geordie accent until a few years ago when met a bloke while in Baltimore visiting a friend at a pub, he was from Newcastle and by happenstance we struck a conversation while I was ordering another ale. Listening to him talk, I was thinking: _is he northern, or is he a Cornishman; no, that's not a western dialect...???_ I ended up saying "Pardon me, sir, but where the heck are you from?" albeit very politely.

Never been to Dallas, but most Texans would say the only city that isn't "real" Texas is the capital, Austin. Los Angelas is a cluster ****, my brother lives there and loves the weather, but it's way too crowded, too expensive, and too trendy for my tastes — and totally lack any culture. I'm more of a countryman. Spent much of my youth and younger adult life in the city, but prefer the calmness of rural-suburban living over the day to day meleé of urban sprawl. You've been to New Jersey, they talk funny over there too... the land of strange traffic patterns, where you aren't allowed to pump your own gasoline/petrol, and everyone calls pizza a "pie".

Yeah, the Arvika while a "racer" is still a work-grade ax, and will perform well. It's just that from the factory they are pretty much blunt steel clubs. The whole idea behind the Arvika is to be used as a trainer, to which the grind is custom tailored by the individual. This is evidenced by the ridiculously deep HB stamp on the cheeks...

I'll keep an eye out for a nice hardwood pattern double for you. 3.5 lb is so common I might just trip over one, ha ha...


----------



## Multifaceted

"


rarefish383 said:


> O, Bugger it all. I got a couple double doubles, meanin more an one o the same, but different, that are the bees knees. I'll take a butchers hook at the bits an bobs an see what I can find. If every thing goes tickety-bo I'll pull one from the odds n sods, and get it up to my mate in PA. Then I'm off to Bedfordshire, movin all this snow from one place to another place has me Plumb tuckered.



'Ello me old China! Wot say we pop 'round the Jack. I'll stand you a pig and you can rabbit on 'bout your teapots. We can 'ave some loop 'n Tommy, then be home before the dickory hits twelve.


----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> "
> 
> 
> 'Ello me old China! Wot say we pop 'round the Jack. I'll stand you a pig and you can rabbit on 'bout your teapots. We can 'ave some loop 'n Tommy, then be home before the dickory hits twelve.


Blimey mate, whatcha think o that China man callin his place “Me OldChina”? Place is aces for noodles, but no bangers an chips there.


----------



## LondonNeil

errrrr?


----------



## Multifaceted

Jethro 2t sniffer said:


> Any way on to axe questions the handles here are shocking. Badly bent and way too skinny soo was wondering if you guys had any online options? The thought of not being able to look at before buying is bugging me. I thought about buying an actual Hults bruk handle to match but they very pricey I don't mind paying for it if nice though



Smedbergs makes handles for Gränsfors Bruk, and I believe Hults Bruk as well. A quick search doesn't turn up any retailers in NZ, but I did see a few in the UK.



LondonNeil said:


> errrrr?



After the snow yesterday, I had one too many pints. Sorry about the Mockney...


----------



## rarefish383

I guess we better stop trying to be Brits, Neil might have a stroke laughing at us?


----------



## Jethro 2t sniffer

Multifaceted said:


> Smedbergs makes handles for Gränsfors Bruk, and I believe Hults Bruk as well. A quick search doesn't turn up any retailers in NZ, but I did see a few in the UK.



Thanks for that that's one more bit of handy info. I'm happy to pay if it will be nice but not if it turns up no better than the rubish in the shops here. I should have taken some pictures the shoulder is all lop sided and a huge banana or so skinny you cant grip it properly the brand is Link


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> I guess we better stop trying to be Brits, Neil might have a stroke laughing at us?



The Mockney might have been in jest, but I was inquiring about meeting up with you, if not at the bar, but at least to share a beer. How's the knee doing?


----------



## rarefish383

I got your drift. The knee is doing OK. Beer sounds good. I'm off the blood thinners so I'm good to go. If my new truck didn't have running boards, I'd have a hard time getting in. Need a lot more range of motion, I think it's progressing good. My 4 week evaluation went well, The Doc said I had 23* more range now than I did pre op. I'l give a cal in a couple days. You're back to work aren't you?


----------



## Multifaceted

Jethro 2t sniffer said:


> Thanks for that that's one more bit of handy info. I'm happy to pay if it will be nice but not if it turns up no better than the rubish in the shops here. I should have taken some pictures the shoulder is all lop sided and a huge banana or so skinny you cant grip it properly the brand is Link



Yep, Link Handles are the same club like hardware store variety we get over here in the states. Warped wood, thick handles smothered there in varnish. Just garbage...


----------



## LondonNeil

rarefish383 said:


> I guess we better stop trying to be Brits, Neil might have a stroke laughing at us?



I now can't shake this D I C K saying 'Hello Mary Poppins!' ....is this actually you off to sweep your flue Joe?



Smedbergs handles, The few (3 so far) I've had ...1 totally awesome, one fairly good, one a bit of heart wood in it but I suspect still very good wood. fat, plenty of thinning can be done. I'll bu more.


----------



## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> The Mockney might have been in jest, but I was inquiring about meeting up with you, if not at the bar, but at least to share a beer. How's the knee doing?


Were an when on the said beer ?[emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## dancan

Jethro 2t sniffer said:


> Thanks for that that's one more bit of handy info. I'm happy to pay if it will be nice but not if it turns up no better than the rubish in the shops here. I should have taken some pictures the shoulder is all lop sided and a huge banana or so skinny you cant grip it properly the brand is Link



Like the others have said , Smedbergs handles , if not , look for a Hultafors/Hults Bruk dealer , same handle and nice quality .


----------



## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> I now can't shake this D I C K saying 'Hello Mary Poppins!' ....is this actually you off to sweep your flue Joe?
> 
> 
> 
> Smedbergs handles, The few (3 so far) I've had ...1 totally awesome, one fairly good, one a bit of heart wood in it but I suspect still very good wood. fat, plenty of thinning can be done. I'll bu more.



When I was a little kid I liked Mary Poppins, now I couldn't listen to 20 seconds of your clip. I think it was back in the 70's there was a TV mini series called Centennial, and Robert Conrad played a French trapper. I liked it enough that I watched the whole mini series. Then years later I saw the reruns and Robert Conrad's accent might as well been from Brooklyn as France. It was terrible. I guess the first time around, if the plot is OK, you don't notice how bad the accents are. But, after 2-3 times they get worse and worse.


----------



## rarefish383

Oh, about the flue, I'm independently wealthy, so I just pay someone in a black top hat to do it. Funny enough, a lot of chimney sweeps do wear black top hats to entertain the kids.


lead farmer said:


> Were an when on the said beer ?[emoji16]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Like the old saying goes, it's 5 o'clock somewhere. I'll be at the Sportsman show in Harrisburg soon. Gotta look up the date.


----------



## rarefish383

The Great American Outdoors Show is Feb 2-10. Not sure which day we will be going. There is a nice pub within walking distance.


----------



## Jethro 2t sniffer

Thanks guys have found a hultafors guy in nz gave him a bell and yea can get nice handles so that's good. Yea it's a sad state here for handles 5 years ago no worries at all many many options there was once a bunch of companies making all kinds of hand tools but have faded away now not much market and cheap imports. I like the name club for the link stuff because that about nails it really.


----------



## lead farmer

rarefish383 said:


> Oh, about the flue, I'm independently wealthy, so I just pay someone in a black top hat to do it. Funny enough, a lot of chimney sweeps do wear black top hats to entertain the kids.
> 
> Like the old saying goes, it's 5 o'clock somewhere. I'll be at the Sportsman show in Harrisburg soon. Gotta look up the date.


Thought you guys went that far from Gettysburg 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## rarefish383

lead farmer said:


> Thought you guys went that far from Gettysburg
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


I'm in Frederick MD and Multifaceted is in PA up by Mt Saint Mary's, Thurmont area.


----------



## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> Thought you guys went that far from Gettysburg
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



While I don't head that far up 15 regularly, I do go around the Harrisburg area quite often. Was up there 3-4 times last month.



rarefish383 said:


> I'm in Frederick MD and Multifaceted is in PA up by Mt Saint Mary's, Thurmont area.



Yep, less than a 1/2 miles from the Mason-Dixon. You know, there's a pretty big gun show going on at the Eisenhower center in Gettysburg the weekend of the 26th-27th.


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## DSW

Picked these three up today.


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## rarefish383

I like all of them!


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## Saiso

Brits are hilarious, and great people too. I’m Canadian but a good friend of mine if from Essex, lived in Leigh-On-Sea/Southend-On-Sea. Known him for almost 10 years now. I don’t know why I felt the necessary need to butt in and mention that though.

How do you guys « find » axes or heads during your travels? All I have are old beat up axes that were assigned to our work trucks or/and fire engine.


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## rarefish383

Saiso said:


> Brits are hilarious, and great people too. I’m Canadian but a good friend of mine if from Essex, lived in Leigh-On-Sea/Southend-On-Sea. Known him for almost 10 years now. I don’t know why I felt the necessary need to butt in and mention that though.
> 
> How do you guys « find » axes or heads during your travels? All I have are old beat up axes that were assigned to our work trucks or/and fire engine.


I go to farm auctions. The local Fair Grounds has an auction every Tuesday from 4 till done. They fill 2 barns and 2 closed buildings every week. Old chainsaws usually go for under $20 and old axes used to go for $1 each. Now the auctioneers won't take any bid under $5. If they have a whole pile of hand tools they will say. " selling pile, buyer gets choice". That means if you are the high bid you take your pick of one item at the bid price, or multiple items at the bid price. Since I know they won't take a bid under $5, before they start on the pile, I'll ask if they will sell all of the axes as one lot. They usually do, and if there are a couple nasty ones in there, most home owners that just want 1 ax won't bid, because they have to take the whole pile. Usually get a pile of 5-10 axes for about $10. Once in a while you run across a real nice one in an antique shop, but then they want real money just for the head. Garage sales are good for dollar axes. The Fair Grounds has two big sales in March and October. Last year I bought 4 chainsaws about 10 in the morning, and there was a Plumb ax in one of the fields that I liked, I had to wait till 5 in the afternoon, got it for $5. So, my $5 ax basically cost me a whole day. Is it worth it. Sometimes. I consider auctions as social entertainment.


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## Saiso

rarefish383 said:


> I go to farm auctions. The local Fair Grounds has an auction every Tuesday from 4 till done. They fill 2 barns and 2 closed buildings every week. Old chainsaws usually go for under $20 and old axes used to go for $1 each. Now the auctioneers won't take any bid under $5. If they have a whole pile of hand tools they will say. " selling pile, buyer gets choice". That means if you are the high bid you take your pick of one item at the bid price, or multiple items at the bid price. Since I know they won't take a bid under $5, before they start on the pile, I'll ask if they will sell all of the axes as one lot. They usually do, and if there are a couple nasty ones in there, most home owners that just want 1 ax won't bid, because they have to take the whole pile. Usually get a pile of 5-10 axes for about $10. Once in a while you run across a real nice one in an antique shop, but then they want real money just for the head. Garage sales are good for dollar axes. The Fair Grounds has two big sales in March and October. Last year I bought 4 chainsaws about 10 in the morning, and there was a Plumb ax in one of the fields that I liked, I had to wait till 5 in the afternoon, got it for $5. So, my $5 ax basically cost me a whole day. Is it worth it. Sometimes. I consider auctions as social entertainment.


Sounds like it! That was fun to read. I may inquire about such auctions and « barn » days here.


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## LondonNeil

Saiso said:


> Brits are hilarious, and great people too. I’m Canadian but a good friend of mine if from Essex, lived in Leigh-On-Sea/Southend-On-Sea. Known him for almost 10 years now. I don’t know why I felt the necessary need to butt in and mention that though.
> 
> How do you guys « find » axes or heads during your travels? All I have are old beat up axes that were assigned to our work trucks or/and fire engine.




ebay, and either pay through the nose or be very very patient and occasionally lucky to find a head that is poorly listed and goes a bit cheaper. For example I came across a Plumb yesterday, beng a very unusual brand over here it wasn't named as Plumb in the title....doubt it will fetch loads. If I was not in London I would have a chance of picking up the odd axe at carboot sales, but i don't.


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## rarefish383

Saiso said:


> Sounds like it! That was fun to read. I may inquire about such auctions and « barn » days here.


Down here we have an on line service called AuctionZip. You enter your zip code and a mile radius, 30, 50, 100, etc. and it will show every auction listed in that range. I was showing some of the chainsaw guys how it works. In a 30 mile radius of my house, in the month of January there were over 200 auctions. Old axes and chainsaws usually don't get listed, they don't bring enough money to bother. So, I go to the photo gallery and scan the background of the pics. All old farmers have axes and saws. So, in the pic of the big John Deere tractor, leaning on the barn wall, will be 3-4 axes. Every week I check a couple local sales, and sometimes I'll spend a couple hours on the computer just scanning the pics of the sales. If you average in the time spent to buy a $5 ax, sometimes I have to wait all day for an ax or saw, it'll always be the last item sold, it might not be such a deal. I find auctions to be very entertaining, so to me it's worth it.


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## Multifaceted

DSW said:


> Picked these three up today.
> 
> View attachment 712815
> 
> 
> View attachment 712816



Noice!

What are the makers? I can't make it the stamps


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## DSW

rarefish383 said:


> I like all of them!





Multifaceted said:


> Noice!
> 
> What are the makers? I can't make it the stamps



Thank ya. I was pretty lucky to find them. I didn't find a single axe the first two places I went. Then I found these at the same place. 

I have been using an Estwing hatchet as a wedge pounder and they make a great product but they're too light when the trees need some real convincing. The hatchet has a few extra inches in length and a heavy head on it and I've already used it to pound some wooden wedges and it's exactly what I was looking for, head stays tight as well. Won't be doing anything to it but using it.

The 28 inch I was looking to finish the cordwood challenge. 

The small hatchet already had a loose head but I was looking for a mini hatchet or a carving hatchet and most I've come across in the past are too heavy. Gonna strip the handle, try to remove some material on the head, then get the handle tight so I can carve with it. It's definitely a back burner project though.

The 28 inch has no name, the inside of the head has ridges instead of being smooth.

The full size hatchet is a Fulton. 

The mini hatchet says, I believe Eas Co, malleable scout axe on the handle, assuming it's the correct handle.


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## DSW

Gransfors style




Hudson style


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## dancan

Saiso , I do a few yardsales in the summer , we have a weekend market with a lot of used sellers so I check there every now and then and have bought a couple from Kijiji and even value village 
DSW nice trio !
I haven't taken the cutoff wheel to any of my axes but if you must do the Hudson style .


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## DSW

dancan is the king of good axe deals so I'd soak up whatever info he shares.


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## dancan

DSW said:


> dancan is the king of good axe deals so I'd soak up whatever info he shares.



Man , those are big words !
Didn't I tell you guys earlier that I'm only google certified in the little that I know , learn't it with a lot of googlefu lol


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## LondonNeil

Is there a world wide handle shortage, or just in England ? Mostly I'd not got round to hanging heads as I've been side tracked by work, kids or other family issues but partly I hadn't got the handles. IdI looked a few times and they'd been out of stock. Well I found some in stock at last... Possibly not the ideal lengths but good enough. So 1 Arvika haft (needed for its extra eye thickness as I could find no other 28+mm wide) and 2 smedbergs straight 28" handles ordered. Just shy of £100 after postage... I better make a good job of these!


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## rarefish383

I've got a pile of Ash logs, I can send you as many blanks as you want.


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## LondonNeil

yes If I scrounge up some straight Ash branches of the right size I might have to set it aside for blank making. I did one cheaper handle fro ebay to try, an RST Bulldog handle in Ash. it wasn't clear on the thickness of the eye though, 23mm I hope. 

does anyone know the dimensions of the standard pick axe/mattock eye? I can get pick axe handles cheap and I'm sure I could shave the head down to make an axe eye. i perhaps should have tried that instead of buying the £30 arvika handle I needed for the 4.5lb HB head...its got a massive 68mmx28mm eye and I couldn;t find a hande that thick anywhere else.


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## Haywire Haywood

This is an old 3.5lb Collins that my dad had for as long as I can remember.. I figure it's at least 45 years old. Anyone know anything about it? How much do you think it would cost to get it refurbished and rehung by someone that has an idea what they're doing? Edit.. I found vintageaxeworks.com that is about 90 minutes from me. He wants $75 for a head restoration and $175 more if I want it hung too. The head restoration seems reasonable, but an additional $175 for having it hung seems expensive. As part of the restoration, he does something called "forced patina" which to me looks like hot salt bath bluing. I'm not liking that too much.


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## lead farmer

Haywire Haywood said:


> This is an old 3.5lb Collins that my dad had for as long as I can remember.. I figure it's at least 45 years old. Anyone know anything about it? How much do you think it would cost to get it refurbished and rehung by someone that has an idea what they're doing? Edit.. I found vintageaxeworks.com that is about 90 minutes from me. He wants $75 for a head restoration and $175 more if I want it hung too. The head restoration seems reasonable, but an additional $175 for having it hung seems expensive. As part of the restoration, he does something called "forced patina" which to me looks like hot salt bath bluing. I'm not liking that too much.
> View attachment 713957


That head looks good already, just put a light coat of boiled linseed oil on it an let it dry. Not sure what the handle looks like but for 175bucks I'd scrape it with a blade then sand it real nice like an then put about 20 coats of the same boiled linseed oil on it. If the head is loose pick out the wedge and tape the head off. Clean rust out off the eye with a wire brush reseat the head and put in a new wedge. Set down one your chair with a beverage of choice an admire your handy work. [emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## kevin j

‘forced patina’ on carbon steel is easy to do rubbing/soaking with a paper towel, with either walnut hulls, or vinegar, or mustard. Other vinegar based products probably work also. I’ve done many Mora work knives that way and it helps. Not rust proof, but it helps.


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## Haywire Haywood

Ah, I did a vinegar soak on a carbon steel chef's knife. It didn't come out nearly as dark as the ax head in his picture.

Edit... Rob at Vintage got back with me. Apparently it's a Jersey pattern. I think I'm going to let him do the head. I think it needs some recontouring in the cheeks and I don't want to hack around on it.



lead farmer said:


> Not sure what the handle looks like



It's got overstrike damage on the other side and needs to be replaced. I started looking for a good hickory handle to replace it. Beaver Tooth is out of their select grade. I need to do some more reading at Handle House. Where do you guys get your handles?


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## Multifaceted

Haywire Haywood said:


> This is an old 3.5lb Collins that my dad had for as long as I can remember.. I figure it's at least 45 years old. Anyone know anything about it? How much do you think it would cost to get it refurbished and rehung by someone that has an idea what they're doing? Edit.. I found vintageaxeworks.com that is about 90 minutes from me. He wants $75 for a head restoration and $175 more if I want it hung too. The head restoration seems reasonable, but an additional $175 for having it hung seems expensive. As part of the restoration, he does something called "forced patina" which to me looks like hot salt bath bluing. I'm not liking that too much.
> View attachment 713957



Like @lead farmer said, the steel looks to be in already good enough condition, not much restoration is needed except for a proper grind, that is, if you intent to actually use this; otherwise if this is destined be just a wall hanger, then you can skip that step. $175 is a little high for something that would be provided. I might charge that much if I'm sourcing all of the materials, but f someone were to provide me the head and cover the shipping to me, then I would charge around $125 and that would include shoring up the steel, proper cutting grind and edge sharpening, patina, then hung on a carved, thinly contoured handle.

As to the forced patina, some ways of doing it is more aesthetic, but some also create a protective layer to prevent rust. I do a forced patina by soaking the steel in a warm bath of peroxide and salt, which covers it in rust. I do this several times and evenly brush the rust to spread it, then once satisfied, I'll boil the steel in distilled water which turns the brown rust layer into a black passive oxidation layer. Very similar to boiling water in an aluminum kettle to 'season' it.

Here are some forced patinas that I've recently done:





























lead farmer said:


> That head looks good already, just put a light coat of boiled linseed oil on it an let it dry. Not sure what the handle looks like but for 175bucks I'd scrape it with a blade then sand it real nice like an then put about 20 coats of the same boiled linseed oil on it. If the head is loose pick out the wedge and tape the head off. Clean rust out off the eye with a wire brush reseat the head and put in a new wedge. Set down one your chair with a beverage of choice an admire your handy work. [emoji16]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



This! You can do this yourself, lots of folks in this thread who can help guide you along the way. Each one you do gets better, and the whole process is very satisfying - and fun! Nothing like enjoying a tall pint of your favorite beverage and listening to some tunes out in the shop for a night of breathing life back into an old toool.



Haywire Haywood said:


> Ah, I did a vinegar soak on a carbon steel chef's knife. It didn't come out nearly as dark as the ax head in his picture.
> 
> Edit... Rob at Vintage got back with me. Apparently it's a Jersey pattern. I think I'm going to let him do the head. I think it needs some recontouring in the cheeks and I don't want to hack around on it.
> 
> 
> 
> It's got overstrike damage on the other side and needs to be replaced. I started looking for a good hickory handle to replace it. Beaver Tooth is out of their select grade. I need to do some more reading at Handle House. Where do you guys get your handles?



Beaver-Tooth is a good handle maker, though he's a one-man operation, so shipping is slow and often some items are out of stock, so you'll have to watch the page often to get what you are looking for. I would avoid House Handle, I've been disappointed by their quality control more often than I received anything satisfactory. I'm talking sloppy lathe work, hafts not aligned with the eyes, turning down a handle to the thickness of a toothpick because you ordered a lacquer-free handle and they just put a lacquered one on a lathe. Just crap, I'm done with them. Proceed with caution.

If you need some help and or guidance, feel free to message me. I've helped and done work for a few folks on here.


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## Haywire Haywood

Multifaceted said:


> Like @lead farmer said, the steel looks to be in already good enough condition, not much restoration is needed except for a proper grind, that is, if you intent to actually use this; otherwise if this is destined be just a wall hanger, then you can skip that step. $175 is a little high for something that would be provided. I might charge that much if I'm sourcing all of the materials, but f someone were to provide me the head and cover the shipping to me, then I would charge around $125 and that would include shoring up the steel, proper cutting grind and edge sharpening, patina, then hung on a carved, thinly contoured handle.
> 
> As to the forced patina, some ways of doing it is more aesthetic, but some also create a protective layer to prevent rust. I do a forced patina by soaking the steel in a warm bath of peroxide and salt, which covers it in rust. I do this several times and evenly brush the rust to spread it, then once satisfied, I'll boil the steel in distilled water which turns the brown rust layer into a black passive oxidation layer. Very similar to boiling water in an aluminum kettle to 'season' it.
> 
> You can do this yourself, lots of folks in this thread who can help guide you along the way. Each one you do gets better, and the whole process is very satisfying - and fun! Nothing like enjoying a tall pint of your favorite beverage and listening to some tunes out in the shop for a night of breathing life back into an old toool.
> 
> Beaver-Tooth is a good handle maker, though he's a one-man operation, so shipping is slow and often some items are out of stock, so you'll have to watch the page often to get what you are looking for. I would avoid House Handle, I've been disappointed by their quality control more often than I received anything satisfactory. I'm talking sloppy lathe work, hafts not aligned with the eyes, turning down a handle to the thickness of a toothpick because you ordered a lacquer-free handle and they just put a lacquered one on a lathe. Just crap, I'm done with them. Proceed with caution.
> 
> If you need some help and or guidance, feel free to message me. I've helped and done work for a few folks on here.



Thanks. I'm going to be using this as it's my only ax, but it's a once in a great while kind of use. I just ordered a sheath for it to protect it once the work is done as it will be sitting in the corner of the shop more often than not. What got me wanting to do more reading about handle house is a blistering video review on the Tube where a guy ordered 5 handles to review and paid the $2 premium for "hand selected". Three of them ended up being unusable and the other 2 required alteration to fix. Their description of the handle didn't include what kind of wood it was made out of either which I thought was strange. I tend to get lost in the details, and was reading conflicting information about heartwood mix and not so conflicting information about grain orientation. As much as I'm going to be swinging it, neither is most likely very important. Beavertooth plainly states that grain orientation doesn't play a role in his grading process. It's basically completely clear, mostly clear or "Clear? Never heard of him, what's he look like?"

$250 ($175 hanging plus $75 head restore) is him providing everything except the head and he builds a wooden crate to ship it back in. I'm NOT going that route. He's going to clean up the mild imperfections, resurface it and give it a proper sharpening. I only have this one axe to do and I'm not going to start learning on it. I'd rather let someone that knows what they're doing have it. The finish I chose is his buff brushed. Example attached. If I hadn't moved so quickly and told him that he had the job, I would have let you do it, but I've given my "electronic handshake" on the deal. Wouldn't be right to back out now.


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## Multifaceted

Haywire Haywood said:


> Thanks. I'm going to be using this as it's my only ax, but it's a once in a great while kind of use. I just ordered a sheath for it to protect it once the work is done as it will be sitting in the corner of the shop more often than not. What got me wanting to do more reading about handle house is a blistering video review on the Tube where a guy ordered 5 handles to review and paid the $2 premium for "hand selected". Three of them ended up being unusable and the other 2 required alteration to fix. Their description of the handle didn't include what kind of wood it was made out of either which I thought was strange. I tend to get lost in the details, and was reading conflicting information about heartwood mix and not so conflicting information about grain orientation. As much as I'm going to be swinging it, neither is most likely very important. Beavertooth plainly states that grain orientation doesn't play a role in his grading process. It's basically completely clear, mostly clear or "Clear? Never heard of him, what's he look like?"
> 
> $250 ($175 hanging plus $75 head restore) is him providing everything except the head and he builds a wooden crate to ship it back in. I'm NOT going that route. He's going to clean up the mild imperfections, resurface it and give it a proper sharpening. I only have this one axe to do and I'm not going to start learning on it. I'd rather let someone that knows what they're doing have it. The finish I chose is his buff brushed. Example attached. If I hadn't moved so quickly and told him that he had the job, I would have let you do it, but I've given my "electronic handshake" on the deal. Wouldn't be right to back out now.
> 
> View attachment 714152



If you're shelling out the kind of coin make sure you hang it on a rack, or drill a hole in the bottom of the the handle, run a lanyard through it and hang it from a hook. Leaning it against the wall will cause handle warp if repeated for a length of time.

Also, err on a shorter handle rather than a long one if that's an option. The long handle for a tall guy is only dogma that is parroted mostly by people who seldom ever swing an ax for chopping. For example, I'm not freakishly tall, but at 6' 1", most of my axes are around 28". My favorite felling and bucking ax is 25" long, and my longest handle working axe is 32".


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## Haywire Haywood

Just bought a 36". LOL I have always favored longer handled tools. Mostly I think because of improper technique and the idea that the longer the handle, the more head speed you get (there's a joke there someplace). Watched an ax video that said when bucking, the handle is never supposed to break the horizontal plane and you're supposed to bend your knees as the ax drops to keep the handle horizontal. That would drive me bonkers.


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## Multifaceted

While I'd recommend nothing longer than 32", or if you're able to change your order with him, otherwise you should be okay with 36", only you may find it irritating when bucking on thr ground. If I was using a 36" long handle bucking a log while standing on the ground, I'd be spending a lot of my effort trying not to hit the dirt, and my grip would be swinging dangerously close to my groin. However, if standing atop a log and bucking, then a longer handle would be useful.

Once you get your technique establish, stop on over to the cordwood challenge thread:

https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...cordwood-challenge.328478/page-5#post-6802427


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## Haywire Haywood

He's just doing the head for $75, I'm not spending the money on his full meal deal. I picked up an Ames handle from Lowes this afternoon. I found one on the rack that was almost perfectly straight and the grain was near perfectly aligned with the head also. The only thing that I'm a little worried about is the front to back length of the eye portion. For some reason it looks a little on the short side. I already have the head packed though, so I'll figure it out when I see it again. He says he's booked 6 or 8 weeks out at the moment.


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## Multifaceted

Haywire Haywood said:


> He's just doing the head for $75, I'm not spending the money on his full meal deal. I picked up an Ames handle from Lowes this afternoon. I found one on the rack that was almost perfectly straight and the grain was near perfectly aligned with the head also. The only thing that I'm a little worried about is the front to back length of the eye portion. For some reason it looks a little on the short side. I already have the head packed though, so I'll figure it out when I see it again. He says he's booked 6 or 8 weeks out at the moment.



Many Jersey patterns have an elongated eye that differ from most American teardrop eye patterns. When you go to hang it, be generous on your wedge lengthwise (front to back of the eye) so it will fill in the gap(s).


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## Haywire Haywood

I'll do that, thanks. I usually use two part epoxy to fill any voids between the handle and the head too. I've had good luck doing that. BTW, that video I said was very critical of Handle House was done by that skill cult guy. I noticed that was him in the wood chip video over on the cordwood challenge thread.


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## Multifaceted

Yes, Skillcult and others have expressed their displeasure with House Handle's quality in recent years. For handles other than axe handles, they're actually not that bad. Whenever you get around to hanging it, I would also recommend removing the lacquer, and then shaving it down thin. A thick handle is not strong, you want it to bend and flex with an axe. That is why Hickory and Ash or often chosen in North America for percussion handles - they have the perfect balance of strength/hardness and elasticity. Grain orientation doesn't matter as much as even grain runout. Additionally, the heartwood/sapwood mix doesn't matter either. I think the USFS states in their manual that somewhere around a 40% heartwood is acceptable. The best thing for a long percussion handle is flexibility, IMHO.


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## Haywire Haywood

The old handle and the new handle side by side. They're the same length, I didn't have them lined up properly. The new one is much thicker than the old one. Both are off the shelf box store handles.


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## CaptObvious

Newbie here but I bought a Collins Homestead 3.5# single bit head off FleaBay to put a handle in and use for driving felling wedges and other general axe uses while cutting firewood. Can anyone point me in the right direction for what I should look for? I would prefer a 24-28" handle if possible. Where is a good place to order one online? I don't want to order something online and get the wrong handle only to get something that wont fit and will cost more to return than I paid.


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## LondonNeil

well I'm both pleased and frustrated with my handles.
1. cheap (£9) ash handle....slightly warped and twisted, considerable gran run out, wouldn't pay a pond for it. oh well...its useable just and its to handle a head for my 13 year old nephew who wants to start helping his dad split wood...so no handle will last long i suspect. Disappointing.
2. smedbergs handles, great grain orientation and no run out..very very good. pleased.
3. hultafors arvika handle. great grain orientation and no run out...but...oh, its got the wrong eye size for what i need. poo. I've rechecked...my mistake...I'd convinced myself it was larger than normal and large enough..even with Clarence's photos...I blame imperial measurements and a metric conversion f*** up...if Nasa can do it then I can blame that too. Oh well. I have an excellent quality spare 32" handle!

I still need to find a haft to fit a massive 28mm x 70mm eye, that's 1 1/8" x 2 3/4" (Nasa conversion aside). I've ordered a couple of £10 pick axe handles, the eye on those is 70mm x 50mm so I could reshape it....IF the swell goes far enough down the length...hmm. Aso found a supply of hafts with long eyes, 2 3/4" , 3" and even 3 3/4" I've messaged them about the width, but not overly hopeful. Short of making a handle myself I may be stuck. hmm


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## Yotaismygame

CaptObvious said:


> Newbie here but I bought a Collins Homestead 3.5# single bit head off FleaBay to put a handle in and use for driving felling wedges and other general axe uses while cutting firewood. Can anyone point me in the right direction for what I should look for? I would prefer a 24-28" handle if possible. Where is a good place to order one online? I don't want to order something online and get the wrong handle only to get something that wont fit and will cost more to return than I paid.



Homestead huh....those heads are made of real soft metal. Not very old either. Hope you got it cheap. Two places I buy handles from: www.househandle.com and www.beavertooth.com . That head is going to take a standard size eyed handle

"HOMESTEAD BRAND

The earlier HOMESTEAD labels were quite detailed and used in at least two different sizes. Versions of both generation labels have also been observed printed in black on white paper and black and gray on white paper. These versions were used in catalogs although Collins did use a variety of black on white labels over the years.
The HOMESTEAD brand was used over such a period of time that the label design was modernized at some point, possibly during the late 1950s or early 1960s. That updating also resulted in some of the labels being printed in blue and white on gold colored foil as compared to the traditional paper."


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## Yotaismygame

Haywire Haywood said:


> The old handle and the new handle side by side. They're the same length, I didn't have them lined up properly. The new one is much thicker than the old one. Both are off the shelf box store handles.
> 
> View attachment 714686



Shoot send me the head and Ill do it for $75 which would include the price of the handle and return shipping. I could get it done in about an hour once I got the head.


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## Yotaismygame

Haywire Haywood said:


> This is an old 3.5lb Collins that my dad had for as long as I can remember.. I figure it's at least 45 years old. Anyone know anything about it? How much do you think it would cost to get it refurbished and rehung by someone that has an idea what they're doing? Edit.. I found vintageaxeworks.com that is about 90 minutes from me. He wants $75 for a head restoration and $175 more if I want it hung too. The head restoration seems reasonable, but an additional $175 for having it hung seems expensive. As part of the restoration, he does something called "forced patina" which to me looks like hot salt bath bluing. I'm not liking that too much.
> View attachment 713957



Your axe head falls under this information. 

SPECIALITY MARKINGS

The outdoor activity that became known as "auto-camping" appears to have started a few years prior to 1920. By the mid 1920s it had become a major past time for thousands of motorists. In answer to the growing demands for certain necessities associated with auto-camping many hardware dealers sold smaller sized axes for cutting firewood and driving tent pegs. This led to the manufacturer of axes with markings indicating they were actually intended for use as a "camp axe". Many were marked according and some even had the words "Auto-Camp Axe" marked on them. Collins & Co. offered such axes.
Another term that evolved around that time was "Sportsman’s Axe". Many companies sold axes so marked and some included decorative designs to enhance the appearance of such axes. The popularity of side of the road and back-road auto-camping gave way to the wide spread introduction of motor camp grounds and motor courts as more and more families became involved in such activities. This led to the discontinuance of axes marked accordingly and in their place more and more "Sportsman’s Axes" became available. 
The Auto-Camp axes and Sportsman's axes were not full sized axes if compared to chopping axes. Some were hatchet size while others were house axe size. apparently they were not meant for chopping larger trees but were more for preparing kindling and spitting wood for camp fires.
Fire axes were supplied by numerous axe manufacturers as well as many hardware distributors and fire equipment providers. Most fire axes varied somewhat in shape from those made by other makers but for the end purchaser distinguishing between one make and another was difficult. The majority of fire axes were painted red and Collins chose to use white labels that stood out on the red background.
Many Collins fire axes did not have a paper label and many that did also included a stamped marking indicating the manufacturer. On some axes that were identified only with a stamp, Collins used the Legitimus impression while on others they used the name Collins within a rectangular box. Others, believed to have been used in the early part of the 1900s were marked with the name R. King.


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## CaptObvious

Yotaismygame said:


> Homestead huh....those heads are made of real soft metal. Not very old either. Hope you got it cheap. Two places I buy handles from: www.househandle.com and www.beavertooth.com . That head is going to take a standard size eyed handle
> 
> "HOMESTEAD BRAND
> 
> The earlier HOMESTEAD labels were quite detailed and used in at least two different sizes. Versions of both generation labels have also been observed printed in black on white paper and black and gray on white paper. These versions were used in catalogs although Collins did use a variety of black on white labels over the years.
> The HOMESTEAD brand was used over such a period of time that the label design was modernized at some point, possibly during the late 1950s or early 1960s. That updating also resulted in some of the labels being printed in blue and white on gold colored foil as compared to the traditional paper."



Here's a pic of it. I am not looking for a super rare ax I just wanted something that wasn't China garbage that I can use while cutting firewood. mostly just driving felling wedges and the like.


----------



## Yotaismygame

Here's a few I've hung. Need to get back at it and put together some more I have laying around. I find it fun to go out and swing a wide variety of axes and see what i like best. Double bits have become my favorite. For smaller stuff a 30' handle on a 3lb head and big rounds at least a 3.5lb head on a 36" handle gets the job done.


----------



## Yotaismygame

and some more


----------



## dancan

CaptObvious said:


> Newbie here but I bought a Collins Homestead 3.5# single bit head off FleaBay to put a handle in and use for driving felling wedges and other general axe uses while cutting firewood. Can anyone point me in the right direction for what I should look for? I would prefer a 24-28" handle if possible. Where is a good place to order one online? I don't want to order something online and get the wrong handle only to get something that wont fit and will cost more to return than I paid.



Welcome aboard !
Go to your local hardware stores and go see what they stock , that way you get to see and pick a good one .
Don't forget to put up some pics !!!


----------



## Multifaceted

Haywire Haywood said:


> The old handle and the new handle side by side. They're the same length, I didn't have them lined up properly. The new one is much thicker than the old one. Both are off the shelf box store handles.
> 
> View attachment 714686



New handles are so thick they're almost baseball bat or club-like.



LondonNeil said:


> well I'm both pleased and frustrated with my handles.
> 1. cheap (£9) ash handle....slightly warped and twisted, considerable gran run out, wouldn't pay a pond for it. oh well...its useable just and its to handle a head for my 13 year old nephew who wants to start helping his dad split wood...so no handle will last long i suspect. Disappointing.
> 2. smedbergs handles, great grain orientation and no run out..very very good. pleased.
> 3. hultafors arvika handle. great grain orientation and no run out...but...oh, its got the wrong eye size for what i need. poo. I've rechecked...my mistake...I'd convinced myself it was larger than normal and large enough..even with Clarence's photos...I blame imperial measurements and a metric conversion f*** up...if Nasa can do it then I can blame that too. Oh well. I have an excellent quality spare 32" handle!
> 
> I still need to find a haft to fit a massive 28mm x 70mm eye, that's 1 1/8" x 2 3/4" (Nasa conversion aside). I've ordered a couple of £10 pick axe handles, the eye on those is 70mm x 50mm so I could reshape it....IF the swell goes far enough down the length...hmm. Aso found a supply of hafts with long eyes, 2 3/4" , 3" and even 3 3/4" I've messaged them about the width, but not overly hopeful. Short of making a handle myself I may be stuck. hmm



Bummer about the Arvika handle... But, is it too large, or too small. What are you trying to hang it on again? Put up a picture, perhaps I can help.



Yotaismygame said:


> Homestead huh....those heads are made of real soft metal. Not very old either. Hope you got it cheap. Two places I buy handles from: www.househandle.com and www.beavertooth.com . That head is going to take a standard size eyed handle
> 
> "HOMESTEAD BRAND
> 
> The earlier HOMESTEAD labels were quite detailed and used in at least two different sizes. Versions of both generation labels have also been observed printed in black on white paper and black and gray on white paper. These versions were used in catalogs although Collins did use a variety of black on white labels over the years.
> The HOMESTEAD brand was used over such a period of time that the label design was modernized at some point, possibly during the late 1950s or early 1960s. That updating also resulted in some of the labels being printed in blue and white on gold colored foil as compared to the traditional paper."



Of the two, I prefer Beaver-Tooth. He ships slow, but his quality is typically on-point. House Handle, not so much. Hardware store variety Link Handles will fetch you better quality than from House.


----------



## Yotaismygame

Multifaceted said:


> New handles are so thick they're almost baseball bat or club-like.
> Of the two, I prefer Beaver-Tooth. He ships slow, but his quality is typically on-point. House Handle, not so much. Hardware store variety Link Handles will fetch you better quality than from House.


 Interesting you say that. Ive had nothing but good handles from house handle. Bought at least 20. You must be smokin lotta dope if you think a link handle is better than what house handle makes. Never bought from beaver tooth.


----------



## Multifaceted

Yotaismygame said:


> Interesting you say that. Ive had nothing but good handles from house handle. Bought at least 20. You must be smokin lotta dope if you think a link handle is better than what house handle makes. *Never bought from beaver tooth*.



Is that so? You literally said: 



Yotaismygame said:


> Homestead huh....those heads are made of real soft metal. Not very old either. Hope you got it cheap. *Two places I buy handles from: www.househandle.com and www.beavertooth.com .* That head is going to take a standard size eyed handle
> 
> "HOMESTEAD BRAND
> 
> The earlier HOMESTEAD labels were quite detailed and used in at least two different sizes. Versions of both generation labels have also been observed printed in black on white paper and black and gray on white paper. These versions were used in catalogs although Collins did use a variety of black on white labels over the years.
> The HOMESTEAD brand was used over such a period of time that the label design was modernized at some point, possibly during the late 1950s or early 1960s. That updating also resulted in some of the labels being printed in blue and white on gold colored foil as compared to the traditional paper."



If you think I'm a dope smoker, then I want whatever you're smoking. And yes, I think House Handle is crap, and I'm not the only person to express that displeasure. I gave them several opportunities with my business. Misaligned eyes with hafts, sloppy lathe work, bogus "hand-picked" stock. I could go on and on, and I've bought from them over ten handles, but never again. Link handles are OK so long as you have some stock to choose from, but are not my preference. With House, it's whatever they send you...


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## Yotaismygame

wow you're interesting character. People like you are the reason forums aren't friendly or inviting.

Guess I meant places I would buy from. Beaver tooth is always out of stock when I want to order from them. Well have fun here in the axe section. Definitely the place to be on this forum .

Bye Felecia


----------



## Multifaceted

Thank you, I aspire to be interesting.

Don't cop feelings on me because your 20's be 10's.... and definitely don't leave this sub-forum because of this minor exchange...


----------



## lead farmer

Wtf happened to our axe thread....

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## Multifaceted

Carry on, nothing to see here. This thread moves quickly anyway.


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## LondonNeil

Hi Clarence, the Arvika handle is too small, it's a fairly standard 63mm X 23mm (2 1/2" X 7/8") eye. The head I am struggling to find a haft for is a hilts bruk, marked 2.0/4.5 and it's eye measures 68 X 28mm. I wondered if it was actually a 3" X 7/8" eye that had been deformed by pounding the poll as the axe does bulge out at the eye and it is also slightly mushroomed. I think/hope not though as the eye shape is uniform, there's a lot of material in the head around the eye, and although the mushrooming had been ground off the head doesn't look particularly beaten up so I think it's just an older and uncommon eye size. I'm busy next few days but I'll see if I can get a photo at the weekend.
I emailed a couple of places last night, one with handles with long eyes and another with oschenkopf handles (not sure on the eye size, just looks big). Also asked on the comments of one of Ben Scott's YouTube videos, maybe I'll get a lead.


----------



## Multifaceted

@LondonNeil - that's odd, if your steel eye measures 68 mm x 28 mm, then unless that is some bygone English or Welsh pattern, perhaps the eye is in fact deformed. Is the eye small on both the length and the width? I'd be curious to take a look at a comparison.


----------



## LondonNeil

I'll get some photos at the weekend. Like you I'm wondering. The head has clear evidence of ground off mushrooming to the Poll but the eye shape looks very uniform and the head has lots of material either side of the eye so if it was deformed it must have been a helluva pounding. I can see myself needing to buy a 2*3*32" piece of ash and make my own.... Long term project!


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> I'll get some photos at the weekend. Like you I'm wondering. The head has clear evidence of ground off mushrooming to the Poll but the eye shape looks very uniform and the head has lots of material either side of the eye so if it was deformed it must have been a helluva pounding. I can see myself needing to buy a 2*3*32" piece of ash and make my own.... Long term project!



@LondonNeil photos will definitely help. If possible, put a tape measure up there too. Metric is fine, I know all of the conversions by heart. I work in both Metric and standard Imperial units on a daily basis as a professional draftsman and CAD operator (Computer Aided Design; not Chainsaw Acquisition Disorder).


----------



## rarefish383

Hey Pot Head, still looking for a cruiser for you. I've got a single or two I was thinking of sending up the road with you. York is in 2 weeks, I think 3 of us are going. You want to meet up, and have lunch afterwards? One of the guys lived in York for many years and wants to take us to the pub of his youth. Thinking of pubs, the next time you make it down this way, if you happen to have some of that excellent home brew, could you dip a tea bag of the stuff from Orgone in it. Might make me as happy and friendly as that fellow is.


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## farmer steve

rarefish383 said:


> Hey Pot Head, still looking for a cruiser for you. I've got a single or two I was thinking of sending up the road with you. York is in 2 weeks, I think 3 of us are going. You want to meet up, and have lunch afterwards? One of the guys lived in York for many years and wants to take us to the pub of his youth. Thinking of pubs, the next time you make it down this way, if you happen to have some of that excellent home brew, could you dip a tea bag of the stuff from Orgone in it. Might make me as happy and friendly as that fellow is.


I don't stop by here much but I saw your post Joe. Behave yourself when you in my neck of the woods .


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> Hey Pot Head, still looking for a cruiser for you. I've got a single or two I was thinking of sending up the road with you. York is in 2 weeks, I think 3 of us are going. You want to meet up, and have lunch afterwards? One of the guys lived in York for many years and wants to take us to the pub of his youth. Thinking of pubs, the next time you make it down this way, if you happen to have some of that excellent home brew, could you dip a tea bag of the stuff from Orgone in it. Might make me as happy and friendly as that fellow is.



You're talking the weekend of March 2nd-3rd, right? I might be up for that and lunch and a pint afterwards. York Fairgrounds I take it?


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## rarefish383

Clarence, a while back you recommended not to lean an ax against the wall, they will bend from gravity. You may remember a few nice ones that sat in Dad's barn for 30 years, and took on a nice warp. You could almost split wood around a corner. Since they were original handles on nice heads, I leaned them against a wall in the basement, with the bow out, and they are almost straight now. Was thinking about making a jig on one of the work benches with pegs and maybe a bottle jack to straighten some of those nice originals when I run across them. What do you think?


----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> You're talking the weekend of March 2nd-3rd, right? I might be up for that and lunch and a pint afterwards. York Fairgrounds I take it?


Feb. 23-24. I have a couple 1899 Savages I want to find a new home. Steve, James, Lead Farmer, everyone in the PA area come on down. We can have a mini GTG at the bar.


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> Clarence, a while back you recommended not to lean an ax against the wall, they will bend from gravity. You may remember a few nice ones that sat in Dad's barn for 30 years, and took on a nice warp. You could almost split wood around a corner. Since they were original handles on nice heads, I leaned them against a wall in the basement, with the bow out, and they are almost straight now. Was thinking about making a jig on one of the work benches with pegs and maybe a bottle jack to straighten some of those nice originals when I run across them. What do you think?





rarefish383 said:


> Feb. 23-24. I have a couple 1899 Savages I want to find a new home. Steve, James, Lead Farmer, everyone in the PA area come on down. We can have a mini GTG at the bar.



Sat, 2/23 I'm booked solid the whole day. Helping a friend move in the AM, then I have my Homebrew Club's Annual Mardi Gras Tasting Party in the evening, which begins at 5pm. Sunday is still a possibility. Which day you plan on making the tip up?

Yeah, leaning against a wall with humidity and temperature fluctuations will cause warping like you describe. For this reason is why I advocate hanging in a rack or upside down on a hook and lanyard.

I think the jig idea would work well, perhaps if you can or had the means to - steam the wood prior to setting them in the jig.


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## LondonNeil

Aha! the pick axe handles i ordered arrived to day. the swell is gradual and one will have the width necessary to adapt and hang the hults bruk monster. it would have space front and back at the bottom, but i can probably make little packers for that. they are 36". i'll shorten to 32" so i'll lose the palm swell but could wrap some tape to recreate that. grain not bad either. fairly hopeful i can make this work.


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## rarefish383

Neil, I had a handle with a little space front and back. I made a custom Black Walnut wedge for it. It had a bit of a bullet shaped T on each end of the wedge, that fit perfect in the voids. That was on the White Ash handle I made for my throwing ax. The Black Walnut looked really good on the light white of the Ash. Unfortunately, I threw it one time and it hit on the end of the handle and drove the head on another 1/4 inch, and snapped off the little fillers. When I reset it, I didn't feel like taking the time to make a whole new wedge, so I just filled the voids with epoxy.


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## Haywire Haywood

How many of you guys use those pucks to maintain your axes? I thought about just using this with the appropriate grit wet/dry carborundum paper. Looks like the block would have more flat surface area.


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## Multifaceted

Haywire Haywood said:


> How many of you guys use those pucks to maintain your axes? I thought about just using this with the appropriate grit wet/dry carborundum paper. Looks like the block would have more flat surface area.
> View attachment 715890



This isn't a bad idea, though the only downside I can think of is that you'll be changing paper often; however, the upshot is that you'll always have a flat surface to work with. One thing you're always combating with stones is that they wear down with valleys and uneven surfaces due to the convex shape and contour of the bit.

Typically I use a file for the heavy lifting in a vise, and a puck to maintain in the field if I eat some dirt while bucking.


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## Haywire Haywood

The previous tenant left this on the back deck. What do you think? Odd splitting maul or railroad spike driver.  It's marked L8NRR on top (or bottom) and ALLOY on the other. it's 10.5" long and 1-7/8" tall at the eye.


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## rarefish383

Not sure what it is for, but I like it and if I saw one cheap, I'd buy it.


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## 95custmz

Haywire Haywood said:


> The previous tenant left this on the back deck. What do you think? Odd splitting maul or railroad spike driver.  It's marked L8NRR on top (or bottom) and ALLOY on the other. it's 10.5" long and 1-7/8" tall at the eye.
> 
> View attachment 716255
> View attachment 716256
> View attachment 716257


https://www.ebay.com/itm/183683031153 Looks like this RR spike driver.


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## Haywire Haywood

That it does. The bevels back at the hammer end match up pretty good. @rarefish383 , it's yours for the cost of flat rate shipping if you want it.


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## abbott295

It sure looks like an 8 in there, but if it were an & it could be L&NRR, Louisville and Nashville RailRoad. That is how I would read it if I had found it. I think I have something with double sledge heads that says something RR on it.


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## kevin j

It’s not a spike mall. They have a long thin round end so that the handle would never touch the top of the rail. but there’s a lot of other tools used on the railroad so it could very well be something for driving bolts and spikes on bridges and things. 
and if it is a railroad logo stamped on it it was custom-made for them and is likely to be very high-quality because they took a lot of abuse and last a long time.


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## dancan

Check with mudstopper .


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## Haywire Haywood

abbott295 said:


> L&NRR, Louisville and Nashville RailRoad



I'll bet that's what it is and they used an 8 instead of the & symbol. That railroad had a pretty good history going back a long time before being swallowed up in the 80s and eventually became part of CSX.


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## rarefish383

Haywire Haywood said:


> I'll bet that's what it is and they used an 8 instead of the & symbol. That railroad had a pretty good history going back a long time before being swallowed up in the 80s and eventually became part of CSX.


I bet you guys are right about the 8-&, stamp. 

Thanks for the offer, but I think I'll pass. I have at least 20 axes downstairs and more in the garage. I think I have more chainsaws than axes too. I have 3 saws on the bench now. I bet if you sent that up to Multifaceted He'd make a show stopper out of it.


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## Haywire Haywood

Multifaceted, you're up. Need another whatever this is in your stable?


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## Multifaceted

Haywire Haywood said:


> Multifaceted, you're up. Need another whatever this is in your stable?



That's not really in my wheelhouse, as I'm mostly into axes, but if you're really, really intent on having me work on it, then I'll consider. The thing is, I've got a little backlog going right now, can't say how long it'll take. It could be months before I get around to it, especially with the spring and summer coming up.


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## Haywire Haywood

Ok, I'll just chuck it under the bench. At least it won't rot on the deck any more.


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## Stonesforbrains

Haywire Haywood said:


> The previous tenant left this on the back deck. What do you think? Odd splitting maul or railroad spike driver.  It's marked L8NRR on top (or bottom) and ALLOY on the other. it's 10.5" long and 1-7/8" tall at the eye.
> 
> View attachment 716255
> View attachment 716256
> View attachment 716257


Haywood I am not sure what that particular tool is used for, I found a spike driver on the side of the road near a railroad crossing a few years ago. Yours looks way better than what I found. It took me quite awhile to get the rust scale off of it. I gave it to my brother in law a few months ago to hang for me. Still haven’t got it back but not a big deal. I just thought it would look cool hanging up in the tool shed next to the old buck saw blade I found at my grandfathers place. You never know with a handle it might be just one of those cool looking pieces that hang on the wall.


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## Stonesforbrains

Haywood I found this online by looking up railroad track tools. Just gives you the tool name and the fact they still use them and make them, no info on the maker or age of the one you have.


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## Haywire Haywood

Did a little google search for "track chisel" and did some reading. Apparently it's a metal cutting chisel on a stick. High carbon alloy. New they cost between $100 and $150. I saw drawings of someone holding the chisel in place comfortably distant from the fellow swinging the sledge at it.


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## Haywire Haywood

Is it just me or does everyone that develops an interest in axes start sharpening everything made of metal within reach? That sanding block works quite well after I figured out how to flex it while putting sandpaper on it so that it pulls nice and tight. Oh, and if you sharpen your 12" machete up and then use it for a makeshift draw knife, wear gloves. It'll let the blood out if you give it a chance.


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## Trx250r180

Finally got this head hung i got from multifaceted ,4.5 lb with a shape similar to the hb arvika ,got a link racing axe handle because the eye was larger like a racing axe uses ,the grip was pretty rough ,so i reshaped it for comfort.


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## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> Finally got this head hung i got from multifaceted ,4.5 lb with a shape similar to the hb arvika ,got a link racing axe handle because the eye was larger like a racing axe uses ,the grip was pretty rough ,so i reshaped it for comfort.View attachment 720410
> View attachment 720411
> View attachment 720412
> View attachment 720413
> View attachment 720414
> View attachment 720415
> View attachment 720416



Looks awesome! I forgot how big that bad boy was, never thought to compare it side-by-side with my Arvika. As a fallers or chainsaw axe, how do you like it?

I still have yet to use the square chains you sent me. Ever since I have been able to get back to work with my knee I have been swinging axes and not much splitting or chainsaw work. Soon that will change...


----------



## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> Looks awesome! I forgot how big that bad boy was, never thought to compare it side-by-side with my Arvika. As a fallers or chainsaw axe, how do you like it?
> 
> I still have yet to use the square chains you sent me. Ever since I have been able to get back to work with my knee I have been swinging axes and not much splitting or chainsaw work. Soon that will change...


Just got it together ,have not tried pounding wedges yet ,it splits firewood real nice .has a little thicker blade section over the arvika so does not stick as bad doing firewood. Has a nice feel swinging it .


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## Haywire Haywood

Got word my collins is on the way back from vintage axe. I'll post some pics when it arrives.


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## lead farmer

Haywire Haywood said:


> Got word my collins is on the way back from vintage axe. I'll post some pics when it arrives.


Cant wait [emoji847][emoji14]

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## al-k

saw this this morning thought maybe someone may want something. this is not my stuff. https://hartford.craigslist.org/tls/d/durham-80-vintage-axes-ax-hatchets/6844034686.html


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## lead farmer

al-k said:


> saw this this morning thought maybe someone may want something. this is not my stuff. https://hartford.craigslist.org/tls/d/durham-80-vintage-axes-ax-hatchets/6844034686.html


I'd be broke if I lived close to that mess [emoji16]

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## rarefish383

Saw some I like. A lot of $5 stuff. He wants you to pay eBay prices. If I buy it on eBay the brown truck brings it to me. If I have to go get it the price drops $35 an hour. At that rate he'd have to pay me to haul them away.


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## Haywire Haywood

Didn't see any Hudson Bay pattern stuff either. I saw a video of a guy that altered a carpenter's hatchet into a little bearded hatchet that looks cool. Thought about trying it with mine.


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## Multifaceted

Some decent looking Connies and some hewing axes/hatchets... But I'm not driving all the way there to pay eBay prices. Self flagellation is not why I got into this hobby...


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## Multifaceted

Recently received an old, very old 1.5 kg (3.3 lb) Swedish collared axe from my friend in Östergötland, Sweden. It is a Hults Bruk Norrbottens pattern, probably circa 1910. They don't make handles for these any more, so I will have to make one from an 8/4 piece of lumber. I have since filed down the minor mushrooming and re-worked the grind. Not a final sharpening or grind just yet, but close...


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## Haywire Haywood

Now that's a really unique piece.


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## CR888

rarefish383 said:


> Not sure what it is for, but I like it and if I saw one cheap, I'd buy it.


I want to quote this & put it in my SIG. Truly sums up the mindset of an axe hoarder who puts reason aside when pursuing his interest.


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## CR888

I like the overstrike protection on that ol vintage HB. Very nice bit!


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## derwoodii

getting good handles down here without spending big bucks is tricky,, i now got to choose which goes on 1st 







sadly they wont last too long as i practice my throw


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## Haywire Haywood

Got my ax back. I'm very pleased.


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## lead farmer

Haywire Haywood said:


> Got my ax back. I'm very pleased.
> View attachment 724827


Beautiful. Looks to be cold blued.

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## Haywire Haywood

That's a trick of the camera. It's polished to almost a mirror finish. My cell doesn't like mirrors. It's also a razor. I'm going to have to tape it up good when I hang it or I will be visiting an emergency room.


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## rarefish383

CR888 said:


> I want to quote this & put it in my SIG. Truly sums up the mindset of an axe hoarder who puts reason aside when pursuing his interest.


Unfortunately, that's why I'm broke right now. I was at a gun auction and they had a 1908 Savage Model 1899 Saddle Ring Carbine in 30-30. SRC's are quite rare, then to find one in a Winchester caliber is extra rare. I had $1600 on me and the bidding bumped me out. Leaned over and told my buddy I was all in, and all out. He handed me another $1000 and said, "don't stop now, you like it, and you will never see another in that condition". Paid $2300 for it.


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## lead farmer

rarefish383 said:


> Unfortunately, that's why I'm broke right now. I was at a gun auction and they had a 1908 Savage Model 1899 Saddle Ring Carbine in 30-30. SRC's are quite rare, then to find one in a Winchester caliber is extra rare. I had $1600 on me and the bidding bumped me out. Leaned over and told my buddy I was all in, and all out. He handed me another $1000 and said, "don't stop now, you like it, and you will never see another in that condition". Paid $2300 for it.


You only live once [emoji16]

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## Multifaceted

I had a project for a client who wanted a heavier pack axe for chopping and splitting deadfall on trails. 2.8 lb head on a 23.5" handle - 22.5° grind with a Kydex collar guard.


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> I had a project for a client who wanted a heavier pack axe for chopping and splitting deadfall on trails. 2.8 lb head on a 23.5" handle - 22.5° grind with a Kydex collar guard.


Dang ! You do nice work Sir.

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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> Dang ! You do nice work Sir.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



Thank you!

This was a fun project. Putting a heavier head on a short handle really made a great performing tool. I'm really preferring shorter handles these days...


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Thank you!
> 
> This was a fun project. Putting a heavier head on a short handle really made a great performing tool. I'm really preferring shorter handles these days...


Me to, kinda been into the boys axes lately 

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## al-k

Here is a question for you guys, I made a handle a while back out of maple, it broke. I want to make new one out of hickory and was wondering if I can use hickory from a small tree say 5" or even a limb or should I go for center of bigger tree? I have some about 12" to 16" but hate to take it for just a ax handle.


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## lead farmer

Was at a saw ship locally an saw this sweet axe in the corner. Lou Gibons was the owner back in the day, must have been old school logger guy any way he lost a race at the local timbejack show do to a knotty piece , chipped the edge as you can see. He was pissed an gave this old saw shop the axe.








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## Multifaceted

Wholly Carp! Is that yours???

An original Hytest Tassie - man, I'd sell my left testicle for that there axe....


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Wholly Carp! Is that yours???
> 
> An original Hytest Tassie - man, I'd sell my left testicle for that there axe....


Nope. Just setting in a corner of a very old saw shop. 

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## 95custmz

lead farmer said:


> Nope. Just setting in a corner of a very old saw shop.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Is it for sale??


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## lead farmer

95custmz said:


> Is it for sale??


I've been trying to get on the old man's good side to get to see all his old stuff. He's right fond of the the ole timer that gave it to him so I kinda doubt it. Mabe next time I stop I'll test the waters. [emoji16]

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## 95custmz

lead farmer said:


> I've been trying to get on the old man's good side to get to see all his old stuff. He's right fond of the the ole timer that gave it to him so I kinda doubt it. Mabe next time I stop I'll test the waters. [emoji16]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Make him feel guilty for that beautiful axe just sittin in the corner collecting dust. LOL


----------



## Multifaceted

I'd start the bid at $120 and I'd put that bad boy back into work in no time. I love chopping wood with an axe and that there Tassie is just itchin' to work after all these years. Hystest is the Creme de la Creme of Aussie axe makers - designed to make a mockery of hardwoods!


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## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> Wholly Carp! Is that yours???
> 
> An original Hytest Tassie - man, I'd sell my left testicle for that there axe....


Yeah, but who ya gonna get to buy it?


----------



## CR888

Before the American axe company Plumb started selling Plumb branded axes, a little Australian company was selling well made hand tools under the name Plumb. They were pissed when they were exporting a top quality product around the globe & someone started using their name and selling axes off the back of their reputation. They were some of the best axes EVER made that were produced for the masses. They were the choice of competition choppers for decades. Unable to sort it out in the courts, the original Australian Plumb brand changed their name to Hytest and continued producing axes well into the future. Last year a customer (92y/o lady) offered me he deceased husbands axe. It was fairly rusty on the surface but hadn't seen much use as its original sticker on the head was still half there. The desintergrated paper sticker had most of the letters to the word 'Tasmanian'. I got it home, wire brushed it and saw the Plumb stamp up toward the poll. The 4-1/2lb head also had phantom bevels coming up the cheek on both sides. I was fairly happy that day sitting in front of the fire with that axe on my lap when it sunk in what I actually had. Wifey couldn't understand why I was infactuated with such an old dirty axe when I already had so many others. It put my x27 to shame the next day testing it out in hard wood. Hits hard to say the least. Here it is (cause ya gonna want to see this unicorn! after reading my long winded old lady story) sitting next to a Hytest that I've put a few hours into...from angle grinder to 2000grit I can clearly see my face in it but there are still tiny fine scratches that need working.


----------



## rarefish383

Found this. The American Plumb was in business in the mid to late 1800's. I don't know if they were riding on the reputation of the Australian Plumb or not.
This is quoted from an Australian newspaper dated 4 January 1946:
_
PUBLIC NOTICE 
PLUMB (AUST.) PTY. LTD. 
Sole Manufacturers and sellers under its own Name of 
'HYTEST' AUSTRALIAN-MADE FORGED TOOLS 
including 'HYTEST' AXES 
Winners of Numerous Woodchopping Conlests 
and 'HYTEST' HATCHETS etc 
GIVE PUBLIC NOTICE THAT 
Neither the company nor its Products are in any way connected 
with the American Company, 
FAYETTE R. PLUMB (INC.) .

All Distributors And Sellers Are Notified and requested 
Only to Offer and Sell our Products as 'HYTEST' 
Tools Made by PLUMB (Aust). Pty. Ltd. 
and not to cause or directly or indirectly to permit 
any confusion in the minds of prospective 
buyers between the Axes and Hatchets of 
Plumb (Aust.) Pty. Ltd. and 
the Axes and Hatchets of 
the American Company Fayetle R. Plumb (Inc.) 

'HYTEST' TOOLS ARE AUSTRALIAN MADE 
BY AN AUSTRALIAN COMPANY 
PLUMB (AUST.) PTY. LTD 
Sydney and Melbourne._

The Courier-Mail (Brisbane, Qld.), Friday 4 January 1946, page 2
http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/50280254


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## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> Yeah, but who ya gonna get to buy it?



No idea, but I remember a while back about a guy who intended to do the very same thing to help pay for a coveted 370-Z car.
https://www.forbes.com/sites/kellyp...testicle-for-new-car-is-taxable/#68355b812dd1


----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> No idea, but I remember a while back about a guy who intended to do the very same thing to help pay for a coveted 370-Z car.
> https://www.forbes.com/sites/kellyp...testicle-for-new-car-is-taxable/#68355b812dd1


Yeah, but he has more nuts than me.


----------



## Marine5068

Found this out in a cut area on a road side and brought it home.
It needs some TLC.
Notice the circular wedge.
I've never seen a wedge like that.


----------



## rarefish383

Looks like about 20 doubles and as many singles, and a bunch of hatchets. I won't be going, hope the link works. 
https://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/photopanel.cgi?listingid=3248962&category=0&zip=&kwd=


----------



## Marine5068

Found these two hatchets at yard sales over the past couple years or so.
The Estwing is a great, heavy tool for my small kindling.
I haven't used the other and will probably just have it a wall hanger.


----------



## lead farmer

Marine5068 said:


> Found these two hatchets at yard sales over the past couple years or so.
> The Estwing is a great, heavy tool for my small kindling.
> I haven't used the other and will probably just have it a wall hanger.
> View attachment 726425
> 
> View attachment 726426


You should prolly just send that small one to me.......

By the way, nice Norlund [emoji16]

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## al-k

Grabbed this from work, someone through it out in demo.


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## Marine5068

lead farmer said:


> You should prolly just send that small one to me.......
> 
> By the way, nice Norlund [emoji16]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Maybe I should sell the Norlund or maybe I'll just keep it.
I got it for $6 at a yard sale so not a bad deal.
I saw many similar on EBay for like $160.
The Estwing cost me $15 at the same sale.
Both have original sheaths too.


----------



## lead farmer

Marine5068 said:


> Maybe I should sell the Norlund or maybe I'll just keep it.
> I got it for $6 at a yard sale so not a bad deal.
> I saw many similar on EBay for like $160.
> The Estwing cost me $15 at the same sale.
> Both have original sheaths too.


If I were you , I'd clean that baby up an put it on my wall or sell it to me for double your money. [emoji16]

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## bfrazier

I hung a new handle in a maul. The kerf where the wooden wedge would go was so closed up that I can not drive the wooden wedge in. Should I just drive a steel wedge and call it good or take the handle back out and shave it down? Or?
Thanks All.


----------



## rarefish383

If it's down where it should be and just tight, I'd use the steel wedge. I also make Black Walnut wedges and they are much harder than the Poplar wedges that come on all the handles I get. All you need is a slit and the BL wedges usually drive in. If it splits I just make another one.


----------



## bfrazier

rarefish383 said:


> If it's down where it should be and just tight, I'd use the steel wedge. I also make Black Walnut wedges and they are much harder than the Poplar wedges that come on all the handles I get. All you need is a slit and the BL wedges usually drive in. If it splits I just make another one.



Thanks Joe. All done. Bought the two wedges and a maul head for $15... so the handle was more than all three pieces. All my tools are blue so these got sprayed too... (I know, poor form).


----------



## dancan

Looks fine in blue to me !


----------



## rarefish383

bfrazier said:


> Thanks Joe. All done. Bought the two wedges and a maul head for $15... so the handle was more than all three pieces. All my tools are blue so these got sprayed too... (I know, poor form).


Yeah, Bkue almost workd for me. I I were going to paint them, I would use Dodge/Plymouth Turquoise.


----------



## Marine5068

bfrazier said:


> Thanks Joe. All done. Bought the two wedges and a maul head for $15... so the handle was more than all three pieces. All my tools are blue so these got sprayed too... (I know, poor form).


I like the blue too. Almost looks factory. 
I just do mine black every once in a while. Just cheap Tremclad, but does the trick.
I would maybe put a collar to protect the handle shaft some from damage, but up to you.
I'm an accurate swinger, somewhat, when I'm not tired...lol.


----------



## bfrazier

rarefish383 said:


> Yeah, Blue almost worked for me. If I were going to paint them, I would use Dodge/Plymouth Turquoise.



You guys were right. I was WRONG. The blue looked good for five minutes, then rubs off on every piece of wood it hits. I'll go back to just paining a little blue on the wooden handles of my tools. But the handle is staying put... so I guess you were right about that too!

*Thanks friends!*

_Wrong Bob! You were wrong. Wrong Bob, wrong. All wrong!_ _Incorrect, mistaken, in error, erroneous, inaccurate, not accurate, inexact, not exact, imprecise, invalid, untrue, false, fallacious, wide of the mark, off target even._

_



_


----------



## bigbadbob

Workin on this. Yard sale find.


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## lead farmer

bigbadbob said:


> Workin on this. Yard sale find.
> View attachment 730758
> View attachment 730759


Nice one there, even original handle. Did hew stihl it ? [emoji16]

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## bigbadbob

lead farmer said:


> Nice one there, even original handle. Did hew stihl it ? [emoji16]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Three Bucks


----------



## lead farmer

bigbadbob said:


> Three Bucks


Sumbeech

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## Multifaceted

Pretty much a Stihl.... Damn, what a score!


----------



## derwoodii

well them new handles are great,, i was a bit nervous 1st throw as can damage easy so did few dummy chucks to check rotation but 1st tho to target was bull eye and i was able to repeat.. only back at 20 foot line


----------



## rarefish383

derwoodii said:


> well them new handles are great,, i was a bit nervous 1st throw as can damage easy so did few dummy chucks to check rotation but 1st tho to target was bull eye and i was able to repeat.. only back at 20 foot line
> 
> View attachment 731085
> View attachment 731086


I bumped into a friend who throws doubles. He said they hang the head upside down. The curve on the bottom usually drops down farther, so when you flip it over, the points stick up farther. He said it turns a lot of misses into hits.


----------



## derwoodii

rarefish383 said:


> I bumped into a friend who throws doubles. He said they hang the head upside down. The curve on the bottom usually drops down farther, so when you flip it over, the points stick up farther. He said it turns a lot of misses into hits.




this heads fairly uniform in shape,, but sure if i get a axe head that suits this idea will try,,,as need all the help i can when start to move back in distance the handle length axe rotation balance vs throw accuracy begins to play tricks


----------



## derwoodii

aah was just look over ebay stuff found this in Australia my state .. Im not a collected its not a bargain but happy to pass on 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RARE-PR...m4b62cfe373:g:h2kAAOSwTGZctkfW&frcectupt=true




did some digging to find it prolly fair dinks ( original ) not a copy but caveat emptor

http://www.yesteryearstools.com/Yesteryears Tools/Lincoln Axe.html


What has long been known as the LINCOLN AXE holds a reputation by axe collectors as being one of the most desirable examples to own. In addition to including an interesting etching, a very desirable quality of such a collectible axe is that it be close to or actually in pristine condition. A demanding attribute when one considers these axes were probably discontinued sometime in the 1930s. Considering they were first introduced in the mid 1890s, they were distributed for less than fifty years.
Another consideration relates to specifically what markings are on the axe. That may or may not dissuade a collector from acquiring such an axe and it may be a lesser consideration in comparison to condition, but when one realizes that there were numerous of markings for Lincoln axes the collector’s challenge expands.


----------



## rarefish383

derwoodii said:


> aah was just look over ebay stuff found this in Australia my state .. Im not a collected its not a bargain but happy to pass on
> 
> https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RARE-PR...m4b62cfe373:g:h2kAAOSwTGZctkfW&frcectupt=true
> 
> View attachment 731233
> 
> 
> did some digging to find it prolly fair dinks ( original ) not a copy but caveat emptor
> 
> http://www.yesteryearstools.com/Yesteryears Tools/Lincoln Axe.html
> 
> 
> What has long been known as the LINCOLN AXE holds a reputation by axe collectors as being one of the most desirable examples to own. In addition to including an interesting etching, a very desirable quality of such a collectible axe is that it be close to or actually in pristine condition. A demanding attribute when one considers these axes were probably discontinued sometime in the 1930s. Considering they were first introduced in the mid 1890s, they were distributed for less than fifty years.
> Another consideration relates to specifically what markings are on the axe. That may or may not dissuade a collector from acquiring such an axe and it may be a lesser consideration in comparison to condition, but when one realizes that there were numerous of markings for Lincoln axes the collector’s challenge expands.


That’s a good example of a blade, that if you flipped it upside down, the “ears” would stick up higher, and mayhaps get you an extra quarter of rotation.


----------



## Jethro 2t sniffer

Finally got the hults bruk boys axe back in action thanks for the advice and what not you chaps gave me a few months back.

I wound up getting a hultafors handle and yup its perfect. Straight and perfect grain only 60nz delivered.
Spent hours and hours and hours and........ 

But very happy in the end think I have a real nice fit and now it begins lol on the hunt for more. And learn how to sharpen somewhat. so far I've just had a go at it with a saw flat file


----------



## lead farmer

Jethro 2t sniffer said:


> View attachment 733669
> View attachment 733670
> View attachment 733671
> 
> 
> Finally got the hults bruk boys axe back in action thanks for the advice and what not you chaps gave me a few months back.
> 
> I wound up getting a hultafors handle and yup its perfect. Straight and perfect grain only 60nz delivered.
> Spent hours and hours and hours and........
> 
> But very happy in the end think I have a real nice fit and now it begins lol on the hunt for more. And learn how to sharpen somewhat. so far I've just had a go at it with a saw flat file


Very nice [emoji106]

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## LondonNeil

fabulous


----------



## Jethro 2t sniffer

Do any of you fella's make your own sheath's?


----------



## bass_on_tap

Hello, can anyone tell me what I have here? Barn find, Collins Legitimus stamp from what i can see, about 4 lbs. thanks


----------



## Multifaceted

bass_on_tap said:


> View attachment 733795
> View attachment 733796
> Hello, can anyone tell me what I have here? Barn find, Collins Legitimus stamp from what i can see, about 4 lbs. thanks



That there is a nice find, it's a Collins, Legitimus was their top of the line tool series. That is known as a Connecticut pattern. Highly prized and coveted, especially at 4lb (3.5 pounds is more common).

You have an heirloom right there, I'm envious!


----------



## Multifaceted

Jethro 2t sniffer said:


> View attachment 733669
> View attachment 733670
> View attachment 733671
> 
> 
> Finally got the hults bruk boys axe back in action thanks for the advice and what not you chaps gave me a few months back.
> 
> I wound up getting a hultafors handle and yup its perfect. Straight and perfect grain only 60nz delivered.
> Spent hours and hours and hours and........
> 
> But very happy in the end think I have a real nice fit and now it begins lol on the hunt for more. And learn how to sharpen somewhat. so far I've just had a go at it with a saw flat file



Splendid work, mate. You dun gud!


----------



## bass_on_tap

Multifaceted said:


> That there is a nice find, it's a Collins, Legitimus was their top of the line tool series. That is known as a Connecticut pattern. Highly prized and coveted, especially at 4lb (3.5 pounds is more common).
> 
> You have an heirloom right there, I'm envious!


Really! What would i need to do to make it look presentable? And more important, what shouldn't I do to it!


----------



## Allar

I wish i had an axe to restore


----------



## dancan

Allar said:


> I wish i had an axe to restore



Gee , you're right smack dab in the center of all the places I'd love to be for finding axes !


----------



## svk

Haven't been in here in a while. Still have the beautiful axe that @Multifaceted did for me last winter. Used it once the day after I received it to get out of the ditch and it has ridden in the truck ever since.


----------



## Multifaceted

bass_on_tap said:


> Really! What would i need to do to make it look presentable? And more important, what shouldn't I do to it!



What to do:

A wire cup brush ought to take the rust off and expose some of the nice, dark metal. Optionally you can file the polls flat because some nimrod was beating the back of it using it as a wedge. Other than that, hang it on your choice of haft (I'd go for about a 30-32" handle for that) - then file the bit so it's thin and sharp.

What not to do:

Make it look pretty and hang it on a wall never to be used.... that's just my personal preference.

If you're interested in a professional restoration, PM me for more info.



svk said:


> Haven't been in here in a while. Still have the beautiful axe that @Multifaceted did for me last winter. Used it once the day after I received it to get out of the ditch and it has ridden in the truck ever since.



Glad you like it, and I can only hope it gets more use than just one truck mishap! I do hope it serves you well, put a lot of time into that piece


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> What to do:
> 
> A wire cup brush ought to take the rust off and expose some of the nice, dark metal. Optionally you can file the polls flat because some nimrod was beating the back of it using it as a wedge. Other than that, hang it on your choice of haft (I'd go for about a 30-32" handle for that) - then file the bit so it's thin and sharp.
> 
> What not to do:
> 
> Make it look pretty and hang it on a wall never to be used.... that's just my personal preference.
> 
> If you're interested in a professional restoration, PM me for more info.
> 
> 
> 
> Glad you like it, and I can only hope it gets more use than just one truck mishap! I do hope it serves you well, put a lot of time into that piece


It will definitely get more use this summer!


----------



## rarefish383

If anyone tries to touch my Plumb Cruiser you hung for me, I grab another ax and chop their hand off. I may never throw that ax again.





Third from left for some size perspective.


----------



## Marine5068

derwoodii said:


> aah was just look over ebay stuff found this in Australia my state .. Im not a collected its not a bargain but happy to pass on
> 
> https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RARE-PR...m4b62cfe373:g:h2kAAOSwTGZctkfW&frcectupt=true
> 
> View attachment 731233
> 
> 
> did some digging to find it prolly fair dinks ( original ) not a copy but caveat emptor
> 
> http://www.yesteryearstools.com/Yesteryears Tools/Lincoln Axe.html
> 
> 
> What has long been known as the LINCOLN AXE holds a reputation by axe collectors as being one of the most desirable examples to own. In addition to including an interesting etching, a very desirable quality of such a collectible axe is that it be close to or actually in pristine condition. A demanding attribute when one considers these axes were probably discontinued sometime in the 1930s. Considering they were first introduced in the mid 1890s, they were distributed for less than fifty years.
> Another consideration relates to specifically what markings are on the axe. That may or may not dissuade a collector from acquiring such an axe and it may be a lesser consideration in comparison to condition, but when one realizes that there were numerous of markings for Lincoln axes the collector’s challenge expands.


Where were they made?


----------



## derwoodii

Marine5068 said:


> Where were they made?




in the link is the history story to tell

http://www.yesteryearstools.com/Yesteryears Tools/Lincoln Axe.html


----------



## derwoodii

if your looking for cheap but decent double bit then here ya go,,, its from down under so the post $$ cost may be issue

I was throwin one i got last weekend & its ok needs a trim of handle length to tune rotation and a hone to get better edge but for me $75 beans is great value for something i just chuck about & can break handle with miss cue shot pretty dang fast

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Unbrand...m42004d5ad0:g:LpsAAOSwb21czTYS&frcectupt=true


----------



## rarefish383

I bought a cheap Collins from Ace Hardware just for throwing. It was something like $36, and I had a $10 off coupon, so $26. The handle is so fat I don't think my fingers go all the way around.


----------



## dancan

derwoodii said:


> if your looking for cheap but decent double bit then here ya go,,, its from down under so the post $$ cost may be issue
> 
> I was throwin one i got last weekend & its ok needs a trim of handle length to tune rotation and a hone to get better edge but for me $75 beans is great value for something i just chuck about & can break handle with miss cue shot pretty dang fast
> 
> https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Unbrand...m42004d5ad0:g:LpsAAOSwb21czTYS&frcectupt=true
> 
> 
> View attachment 735920


The space between the growth rings are amazing, looks to be more than an inch per year.


----------



## derwoodii

dancan said:


> The space between the growth rings are amazing, looks to be more than an inch per year.



Its nice soft radiata pine log, I found green pine to be the best for axe chucking my 1st attempt was with Oz hard wood gum the dang things would just bounce off


----------



## Jethro 2t sniffer

Well I think I got my axe sharp enough 

I dropped it and went to catch it with an arm full of wood. To the bone dam it Haha. Spent many many hours with a big file then a stone and a very warn saw chain file. Deadly little thing it is wow


----------



## LondonNeil

Owwwww!


----------



## TheStihlSlinger

Wow! How am I just now finding this thread?
I started messing around with an old axe head I found at our hunting camp back in the winter and quickly became addicted. So far I’ve just dug out the remnants of the old handle and started cleaning up and resharpening it. Anyone know roughly how old this head may be? Also looking for a source of good handles in southern Ontario if anybody knows of any.


----------



## TheStihlSlinger

Also jump started my collection rather aggressively at a local flea market this past weekend. Probably paid too much but I believe these are all quality heads. 
The splitting maul is a mystery to me. Looks brand new but obviously poorly mounted on a sledge hammer type handle. Wouldn’t it have came from Gransfors Bruk already mounted. Doesn’t look like it’s had enough use to have gone through the original handle.


----------



## Multifaceted

TheStihlSlinger said:


> View attachment 739888
> View attachment 739893
> Wow! How am I just now finding this thread?
> I started messing around with an old axe head I found at our hunting camp back in the winter and quickly became addicted. So far I’ve just dug out the remnants of the old handle and started cleaning up and resharpening it. Anyone know roughly how old this head may be? Also looking for a source of good handles in southern Ontario if anybody knows of any.



Not sure if the age, but if I were to guess I'd say mid 70's era. That's a nice Wetterlings axe! Check with @dancan — he's part of the brain trust in here for Swedish finds in Canada.


----------



## dancan

Well , TheStihlSlinger , you suck , but I mean that with respect lol
Awesome score there !
I'd agree with Multifaceted about 70's vintage on the HB and the first Wetterlings , I believe the second one is newer .
The GB doesn't make much sense , maybe someone bought a new one , swing and a miss resulting in a broken handle , was going to rehandle but died in a horrific lawnbowling accident before he could get it finished ?


----------



## TheStihlSlinger

dancan said:


> Well , TheStihlSlinger , you suck , but I mean that with respect lol
> Awesome score there !
> I'd agree with Multifaceted about 70's vintage on the HB and the first Wetterlings , I believe the second one is newer .
> The GB doesn't make much sense , maybe someone bought a new one , swing and a miss resulting in a broken handle , was going to rehandle but died in a horrific lawnbowling accident before he could get it finished ?


Definitely the funniest scenario I’ve heard!
Thanks guys


----------



## TheStihlSlinger

This followed me home today. I can’t quite make out the name. I’ll have to clean out the stamp a bit


----------



## TheStihlSlinger

After a quick scrub with a wire brush I’m pretty sure it says W.GILPIN WEDGESMITHS. With a 1 stamped below. 
Anyone ever heard of that name?


----------



## TheStihlSlinger

A quick google search suggests it W.GILPIN WEDGES MILLS. Made in the UK anywhere from 1834-1946


----------



## LondonNeil

It's gilpin, a Kent pattern. It's English. A good make.

Gilpin is one of the best makers, easy to find too. eBay is always full of numerous small Kent pattern hatchets. 1lbers aren't hard to find. Looks quite a nice one that


----------



## Multifaceted

Tired of searching for handles that meet the requisite needs for a particular project, paying retail and shipping costs, all while rolling the dice on grain runout - only to spend an hour or more carving down and shaping the handle to my liking.

Picked up a 9' board of 8/4 Hickory with good grain orientation and runout, and virtually no visible knots. Been meaning to start making my own handles, plus it's my ONLY option to complete my vintage Hults Bruk collared axe.


----------



## rarefish383

Call me before you buy anymore, I can get all the Hickory and Ash you want free. Heck, I can turn that big Ash of yours into about 10,000 handles.


----------



## Multifaceted

It's more of a I want it and need it now, won't buy any more after this. The main thing is this board is already dried, little worries about warping or splitting. I should get around eight 30" handles with choice grain selection from this board, plenty enough for me to acquire more timber, knowledge and skill to make my own boards or receive them. I still need to learn to mill, got my own and everything!

Ever since my knee has been feeling good, I've been trying to keep up with the yard and taming the woods — plus split all my wood for 2020, AND complete a cord of axe-cut wood for the Axe Cordwood Challenge. It's a constant juggling and balancing act trying to do all of that, spend time with muh wife, and keep up with my other hobbies that compete for my time and attention — like brewing beer, for example!

I need more time, or longer days... at least I have something to look forward to when I retire, if I ever retire...


----------



## TheStihlSlinger

Multifaceted said:


> Tired of searching for handles that meet the requisite needs for a particular project, paying retail and shipping costs, all while rolling the dice on grain runout - only to spend an hour or more carving down and shaping the handle to my liking.
> 
> Picked up a 9' board of 8/4 Hickory with good grain orientation and runout, and virtually no visible knots. Been meaning to start making my own handles, plus it's my ONLY option to complete my vintage Hults Bruk collared axe.





Multifaceted said:


> Tired of searching for handles that meet the requisite needs for a particular project, paying retail and shipping costs, all while rolling the dice on grain runout - only to spend an hour or more carving down and shaping the handle to my liking.
> 
> Picked up a 9' board of 8/4 Hickory with good grain orientation and runout, and virtually no visible knots. Been meaning to start making my own handles, plus it's my ONLY option to complete my vintage Hults Bruk collared axe.


Very nice! Do you know what type of hickory that is? Or what type is best for handles? I have a Bitternut hickory log about 15 feet long and 40” across that I cut down about 3 years ago. I have been thinking of milling it down for handle blanks as I’m experiencing the same lack of quality handles. We only have 2 types of hickory up here (Bitternut and Shagbark) I have access to both but don’t know which is best.


----------



## Multifaceted

TheStihlSlinger said:


> Very nice! Do you know what type of hickory that is? Or what type is best for handles? I have a Bitternut hickory log about 15 feet long and 40” across that I cut down about 3 years ago. I have been thinking of milling it down for handle blanks as I’m experiencing the same lack of quality handles. We only have 2 types of hickory up here (Bitternut and Shagbark) I have access to both but don’t know which is best.



No idea, the lumber yard just said it was 8/4 hickory, it looked like hickory to me, and had the best grain orientation a lot. From what I can gather there is no preference to type of hickory that I'm aware of. I would think that one that grows slow and big are ideal as they works have tighter and wide growth rings. Yep, around here it's shagbark and pignut, loss of it, but on my modest woodlot with all of my ash dying and now my red oaks, I only cut down live trees if absolutely necessary.


----------



## H-Ranch

TheStihlSlinger said:


> Do you know what type of hickory that is? Or what type is best for handles?


I was curious as well and I found the info below from USDA testing in 1935 on various wood species and properties. It's called an impact bending test and measures height in inches a 50 lb hammer has to be dropped to break a piece of wood. I'm not sure this is 100% of the "best handle" story but gives some info. Oddly (at least in my mind) white ash is similar to red oak. Hickory is all high, with the edge going to shagbark.


----------



## LondonNeil

Strength alone does not make a good handle. Over here we don't have hickory so hickory handles for tools are not common. UK hand tols normally have Ash handles....well down on that chart. its about absorbing the vibration I think.


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> Strength alone does not make a good handle. Over here we don't have hickory so hickory handles for tools are not common. UK hand tols normally have Ash handles....well down on that chart. its about absorbing the vibration I think.



This is correct. Ideally you want a wood with a good balance of strength and elasticity. Ash and hickory both have that quality, so does red elm, beech, and both red and spotted gum in Australia. If I can ever get my hands on a Hytest Tassie, I'm gonna hang that on a piece of red gum.


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## dancan

Birch would be traditional stock for a Finnish ax .


----------



## Multifaceted

dancan said:


> Birch would be traditional stock for a Finnish ax .




Oh, yeah - I know. I'm not going to use birch for this when I have hickory available to me. I'm all for tradition, but I plan on using the axe hard and don't want a birch handle to break on me when I spent the time making it from scratch.

Also, while this may look Finnish, it's actually Swedish (Hults Bruk). A real Finnish axe would be easier to make a handle for as they were drifted all the way from the top of the eye to the bottom of the collar, e.g. Billnäs or Kellokoski ; unlike Swedish collared axes which were forge welded and shaped over an anvil - they vary in size even from the same manufacturer.


----------



## lead farmer

dancan said:


> Birch would be traditional stock for a Finnish ax .


I would love to find me a axe zackly like that....

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## dancan

And here's another one



I like the wedges !


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## dancan

lead farmer said:


> I would love to find me a axe zackly like that....
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



So would I lol


----------



## TheStihlSlinger

Finally hung a handle on the axe I started a month ago. Started with a fairly bulky factory handle that had nice grain and did a lot of slimming and shaping. Used red cedar for a wedge. Not as nice as a lot of the hanging’s I’ve seen on this thread but it’s my first attempt. I’ve already collected a half dozen or so heads so I should get lots of practice.


----------



## TheStihlSlinger

These followed me home today. No markings that I can see but someone has definitely put the larger hewing axe? in a vinegar bath or something. It is fairly pitted but I hope to bring it back to a usable state.


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## Multifaceted

TheStihlSlinger said:


> View attachment 742470
> View attachment 742471
> Finally hung a handle on the axe I started a month ago. Started with a fairly bulky factory handle that had nice grain and did a lot of slimming and shaping. Used red cedar for a wedge. Not as nice as a lot of the hanging’s I’ve seen on this thread but it’s my first attempt. I’ve already collected a half dozen or so heads so I should get lots of practice.



You dun gud! Looks like a Maine Wedge, and if so appears that you've hung out on a slightly curved handle. D. Cook might argue, but a lot of Mainers would be proud. Go throw that into some wood stat!


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## bfrazier

I think there may well be a market for Osage Orange Axe handles. Collectors say they're top notch.





There's even a guy here in Oregon selling them. Sorry - I don't have his contact info right in front of me.




I like these - pretty high end I imagine.


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## rarefish383

Definitely pretty. When I was a kid we had quite a few of them. The farmers used them in the fence rows. Now all the farms are gone. I haven't seen one in years. I think the last one I saw was on the campus of St. Johns in Annapolis. That's where I took the ID section of the MD Tree Experts exam. The campus has some of the biggest examples of trees in the State. That was in 1999.


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## rarefish383

I never thought about it, I wonder how Mulberry would do as a handle?


----------



## rarefish383

Just did a search for Mulberry for ax handle. Found an interesting thread on "Growing an ax handle to an ax". Sounded like a bunch of hoohocky to me. The guy said this was the preferred method of attaching a handle 60,000 years ago. The cavemen/early Indians would make a stone ax, with notches napped in the sides, then twist two small trees around the notches, and wait 8-10 years for the trees to grow and fuse together. Seems I remember these people being somewhat nomadic, following herds of game. So, if I made my little trees grow around my ax head when I was 25 years old, then took off following a heard of Woolly Mammoth North for five years, then followed another heard back South for five years, I'd be heartbroken, when I found my tree ax gone. Then when I went over to lean against a big Beech tree to cry, I looked up and there was a big heart carved in the beech that said, " Joe, thanks for the new ax, Clarence". Then being 35 years old, and the eldest member of my tribe, I keeled over and died.


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## bfrazier

rarefish383 said:


> I never thought about it, I wonder how Mulberry would do as a handle?



Hey Joe - After you mentioned Mulberry I went back to look at the entire list from the 50 pound hammer tests, I don't see mulberry on it, but I thought I'd paste the list here anyways. I found the original list here. I did a search on Mulberry - have never seen a mulberry, did not even know they had fruit, so at least I learned something about Mulberrys. (Here).

And I'd like to see someone use a 50 pound hammer!

*Sorted By Height In Inches Of Impact*

*120 (Wet) ------------- Osage Orange
106 (Wet) ------------- Beech, Blue (Hornbeam/Musclewood)
88 ----------------------- Hickory, Bigleaf Shagbark
77 ----------------------- Hickory, Mockernut
74 ----------------------- Hickory, Pignut
71 (AVG) 53 - 88 --- Hickory (Full Range)
67 ----------------------- Hickory, Shagbark
66 ----------------------- Hickory, Bitternut
59 ----------------------- Serviceberry
57 ----------------------- Locust, Black
56 ----------------------- Elm, Rock
55 ----------------------- Birch, Yellow
54 (Wet) --------------- Hickory, Nutmeg
53 ----------------------- Hickory, Water
53 ----------------------- Oak, Scarlet
49 ----------------------- Hophornbeam
49 ----------------------- Oak, Swamp Red
49 ----------------------- Oak, Swamp White
47 ----------------------- Birch, Sweet
47 ----------------------- Honeylocust
46 ----------------------- Oak, Post
45 ----------------------- Elm, Slippery
45 ----------------------- Oak, Pin
44 ----------------------- Dogwood
44 ----------------------- Oak, Water
44 ----------------------- Pecan
43 ----------------------- Apple
43 ----------------------- Ash, White
43 ----------------------- Hackberry
43 ----------------------- Oak, Red
42 ----------------------- Ash, Blue
42 (AVG) 34 - 55 --- Birch (Full Range)
42 (Wet) -------------- Black Mangrove
42 ----------------------- Oak, Willow
41 ----------------------- Beech
41 ----------------------- Gum, Blue
41 ----------------------- Oak, Black
41 ----------------------- Oak, Swamp Chestnut
40 ----------------------- Ash, Biltmore White
40 ----------------------- Birch, Alaska White
40 (Wet) --------------- Buttonwood
40 ----------------------- Laurel, Mountain
40 ----------------------- Maple, Black
40 ----------------------- Oak, Chestnut
40 (Wet) --------------- Pigeon-plum
40 (Wet) --------------- Witchhazel
39 ----------------------- Elm, American
39 ----------------------- Maple, Sugar
39 ----------------------- Oak, Laurel
38 (AVG) 16 - 53 --- Oak (Full Range)
38 ----------------------- Sourwood
37 ----------------------- Oak, Canyon Live
37 ----------------------- Oak, White
37 ----------------------- Persimmon
36 (AVG) 24 - 43 --- Ash (Full Range)
36 ----------------------- Sugarberry
36 ----------------------- Pine, Slash
35 ----------------------- Ash, Black
35 ----------------------- Birch, Gray
35 ----------------------- Magnolia, Cucumber
35 ----------------------- Pine, Jack
34 ----------------------- Birch, Paper
34 ----------------------- Dogwood, Pacific
34 ----------------------- Stopper, Red
34 ----------------------- Walnut, Black
34 ----------------------- Pine, Longleaf
33 ----------------------- Ash, Oregon
33 ----------------------- Elder, Blueberry
33 ----------------------- Holly
33 ----------------------- Oak, Live
33 ----------------------- Sassafras
33 ----------------------- Pine, Shortleaf
32 ----------------------- Ash, Green
32 ----------------------- Gum, Red
32 ----------------------- Mangrove
32 ----------------------- Maple, Red
32 (AVG) 25 - 40 ---- Maple (Full Range)
32 ----------------------- Hemlock, Mountain
32 ----------------------- Larch, Western
31 ----------------------- Cherry, Pin
31 ----------------------- Laurel, California
31 ----------------------- Willow, Western Black
31 ----------------------- Pine, Pitch
31 ----------------------- Yew, Pacific
30 ----------------------- Chinquapin, Golden
30 ----------------------- Douglas Fir (Coastal)
30 ----------------------- Pine, Loblolly
29 ----------------------- Cherry, Black
29 ----------------------- Magnolia, Evergreen
29 ----------------------- Oak, Bur
29 ----------------------- Oak, Oregon White
29 ----------------------- Cedar, Alaska
29 ----------------------- Pine, Mountain
28 ----------------------- Inkwood
28 ----------------------- Maple, Bigleaf
28 ----------------------- Cedar, Port Orford
28 ----------------------- Fir, Lowland White
28 ----------------------- Pine, Pond
27 ----------------------- Catalpa, Hardy
27 ----------------------- Magnolia, Mountain
27 ----------------------- Maple, Striped
27 ----------------------- Douglas Fir (Intermediate)
27 ----------------------- Pine, Jeffery
26 ----------------------- Bustic
26 ----------------------- Cascara
26 ----------------------- Oak, Southern Red
26 ----------------------- Sycamore
26 ----------------------- Douglas Fir (Mountain)
26 ----------------------- Hemlock, Western
26 (AVG) 17 - 36 --- Pine (Full Range)
25 (AVG) 9 - 41 ----- Gum (Full Range)
25 ----------------------- Maple, Silver
25 ----------------------- Pine, Norway
25 ----------------------- Spruce, Red
25 ----------------------- Spruce, Sitka
24 ----------------------- Ash, Pumpkin
24 ----------------------- Butternut
24 ----------------------- Mastic
24 ----------------------- Silverbell
24 ----------------------- Cypress, Southern
24 ----------------------- Fir, Silver
23 ----------------------- Gum, Tupelo
23 ----------------------- Madrono, Pacific
23 ----------------------- Oak, Rocky Mountain White
23 ----------------------- Fir, Noble
23 ----------------------- Fir, California Red
23 ----------------------- Pine, Western White
23 ----------------------- Spruce, Black
23 ----------------------- Tamarack
22 ----------------------- Aspen, Largetooth
22 ----------------------- Cottonwood, Northern Black
22 ----------------------- Gum, Black
22 ----------------------- Cedar, Eastern Red
22 (AVG) 15 - 25 ---- Spruce (Full Range)
21 ----------------------- Aspen
21 (AVG) 13 - 28 --- Fir (Full Range)
21 ----------------------- Walnut, Little
21 ----------------------- Hemlock, Eastern
20 ----------------------- Alder, Red
20 ----------------------- Cottonwood, Eastern
20 ----------------------- Poplar, Yellow
20 ----------------------- Willow, Black
20 ----------------------- Fir, Balsam
20 ----------------------- Pine, Lodgepole
20 ----------------------- Spruce, White
19 (AVG) 12 - 29 --- Cedar (Full Range)
19 ----------------------- Chestnut
19 ----------------------- Rhododendron, Great
19 ----------------------- Pine, Limber
19 ----------------------- Pine, Northern White
19 ----------------------- Pine, Sand
19 ----------------------- Redwood (Virgin)
18 ----------------------- Pine, Sugar
17 ----------------------- Cedar, Incense
17 ----------------------- Cedar, Southern Red
17 ----------------------- Cedar, Western Red
17 ----------------------- Fir, White
17 ----------------------- Pine, Ponderossa
16 ----------------------- Basswood
16 ----------------------- Buckeye, Yellow
16 ----------------------- Oak, California Black
16 ----------------------- Palmetto, Cabbage
16 ----------------------- Fir, Alpine
16 ----------------------- Redwood (Second Growth Dense)
15 (Wet) -------------- Poisonwood
15 ----------------------- Spruce, Engelmann
14 ----------------------- Ironwood, Black
14 ----------------------- Poplar, Balsam
13 ----------------------- Cedar, Southern White
13 ----------------------- Fir, Corkbark
12 ----------------------- Cedar, Northern White
12 ----------------------- Juniper, Alligator
12 ----------------------- Pinon
11 ----------------------- Redwood (Second Growth Open)
9 ----------------------- Gum, Limbo
7 ----------------------- Paradise Tree*


----------



## lead farmer

Heres a couple a buddy sent me today...
Dont droll on your phone.....[emoji16]











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## TheStihlSlinger

Very nice! They’re in mint shape !!


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## lead farmer

Any of you pros know what length handle for the cruiser ?

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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> Any of you pros know what length handle for the cruiser ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



28" is the standard. Personally, I wouldn't go any shorter than 24"


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> 28" is the standard. Personally, I wouldn't go any shorter than 24"


I was thinking 24 

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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> I was thinking 24
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



24" is good for packing and camping, otherwise 28" is a good length for that weight. With the lower weight of a cruiser, some handle length will add velocity to your swing for more effective chopping and chip removal.


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## Marine5068

Multifaceted said:


> No idea, the lumber yard just said it was 8/4 hickory, it looked like hickory to me, and had the best grain orientation a lot. From what I can gather there is no preference to type of hickory that I'm aware of. I would think that one that grows slow and big are ideal as they works have tighter and wide growth rings. Yep, around here it's shagbark and pignut, loss of it, but on my modest woodlot with all of my ash dying and now my red oaks, I only cut down live trees if absolutely necessary.


Ash make very good handles as well, but I prefer Hickory.


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## Marine5068

TheStihlSlinger said:


> View attachment 739888
> View attachment 739893
> Wow! How am I just now finding this thread?
> I started messing around with an old axe head I found at our hunting camp back in the winter and quickly became addicted. So far I’ve just dug out the remnants of the old handle and started cleaning up and resharpening it. Anyone know roughly how old this head may be? Also looking for a source of good handles in southern Ontario if anybody knows of any.


Welcome to the thread and to the site.
We live close.
I keep telling local fellas about the site and how great it is but have yet to hear back from many nearby.
I'm on a property just West of Madoc and South of #7.
Have a bunch of firewood cutting gear and burn some wood for heat, mainly in shoulder seasons.
It helps to have a very good woodstove too though.
I also have some Bitternut on the property. But mostly burn logs I buy from others.
I just cleared some land and have two large Red Oaks to mill and then some White Pine and White Cedars.
Staying busy.


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## Multifaceted

Marine5068 said:


> Ash make very good handles as well, but I prefer Hickory.



Yep, so does elm, red gum or spotted gum, and beech. A balance of strength and elasticity are good properties for percussion tool handles.

I have a Basque axe from Spain hung on a Beech handle, and a Russian axe from Siberia hung on an Ash handle. Both perform very well.


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## Multifaceted

Recently scored a slick Collins Legitimus Connie, not sure if original, but handle is real nice, about 31", nice and slim. Hang seems solid, but I'll pull the steel and re-haft it with the existing handle. Very little wear other than some curved grind on the bit (which I'll correct) - the poll appears to not have been beat on by Bubba to split logs.























Been wanting a Connie for a while now, and to find one in such good condition with a dandy handle to boot! This will make a nice addition to my chopping arsenal.


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## LondonNeil

lovely


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## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> lovely



Thank you kindly. There's maybe one more American pattern that I want, then I'm focusing my attention to your side of the pond - a nice Brades.


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## LondonNeil

Anything in particular for size or pattern? I'll start looking


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## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> Anything in particular for size or pattern? I'll start looking



You'll have to educate me, good sir. Not very familiar with English or Commonwealth patterns. Weight? Are the older axes in metric or imperial? Probably somewhere between 1-1.5 kg or 2.25-3.5 lb

Edit: weren't you also looking for a double bit, or am I confusing you with someone else?


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## LondonNeil

I'll pm you a few ideas to set you thinking. English axes are Imperial weights, it's the rest of Europe that has always preferred metric... We woke up to its advantages eventually.

Most English axes are just a common 'axe' shape like an American feeling axe, or there are Kent pattern, and a small number of stranger pattern like miners axes but they are 5 to 6lb. I guess we have less varied trees and also American lumbermen brought many nationality and traditions together with their own axe ideas.


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## birddogsrule

Hello,Well I just found my first cool old axe,digging thru a collapsed barn . it has Collins ligitimus and a crown with an arm holding a hammer,about 1 1/2 to 2 lbs I would guess.From going thru this post it appears to be a Hudson bay style,handle is loose and 3 roofing nails into the wedge.Thinking I want to make nice like some in here,i'll keep you posted on my results. Any tips are appreciated.Thanks,Sean


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## lead farmer

birddogsrule said:


> Hello,Well I just found my first cool old axe,digging thru a collapsed barn . it has Collins ligitimus and a crown with an arm holding a hammer,about 1 1/2 to 2 lbs I would guess.From going thru this post it appears to be a Hudson bay style,handle is loose and 3 roofing nails into the wedge.Thinking I want to make nice like some in here,i'll keep you posted on my results. Any tips are appreciated.Thanks,Sean


Yes.... we're going to need pics

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## dancan

No pics, didn't happen ... Lol


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## birddogsrule

Cant figure out how to get them to comp from my phone,my niece is gonna do it for me.... there coming!


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## birddogsrule




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## birddogsrule

Tada!


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## dancan

birddogsrule said:


> View attachment 745045
> View attachment 745046
> View attachment 745047


Ö 

Awesome !


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## birddogsrule

This is habit forming,found a double bit axe head with craftsman inside a circle marking it. The hunt continues!


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## rarefish383

Very nice on both finds. I found a Craftsmen ID chart once. It could get you close. It dated the different logo's stamped on their tools. I think I did a search for "Craftsmen logo's".


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## birddogsrule

Thanks Joe,I'll check that out.Sean


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## dancan

Not much to resto do do on this yardsale find .

5 Sheckels


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## dancan

So , tomorrow night on my way home I have to pick this one up 






5 Canadian Pesos


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## lead farmer

dancan said:


> So , tomorrow night on my way home I have to pick this one up
> 
> View attachment 745994
> View attachment 745995
> View attachment 745996
> 
> 
> 5 Canadian Pesos


Sweeeeeeet....that axe was made about 1.5 hrs from me.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## dancan

I got it home , the head is really nice. 
The handle is in nice shape but not correct so not sure what I'll do with it .


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## milkman

Ok, fess up, which one of you guys sent the axes?


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## Greenland South

Haywire Haywood said:


> The previous tenant left this on the back deck. What do you think? Odd splitting maul or railroad spike driver.  It's marked L8NRR on top (or bottom) and ALLOY on the other. it's 10.5" long and 1-7/8" tall at the eye.
> 
> View attachment 716255
> View attachment 716256
> View attachment 716257


That is I believe what is referred to as a track chisel. When I worked for Canadian Pacific Rail 40 years ago we used them to knock the nuts off a "rattler". A ratler was a stripped bolt holding the rails together. One guy, usually me on our crew would hold the handle and place the sharp end on the nut. The other guy would hit the head with a 10 lb sledge to split the nut. 
I have one, and when I get home I'll post a picture. I'm pretty sure mine is marked CPR. This is the first thing I know about anything you guys have posted. I've used a lot of axes and hatchets over the years, just never paid much attention to them unless they need sharpening.


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## Multifaceted

dancan said:


> So , tomorrow night on my way home I have to pick this one up
> 
> View attachment 745994
> View attachment 745995
> View attachment 745996
> 
> 
> 5 Canadian Pesos



¡Me gusta!

First pic I was like "_nice looking Pennsylvania DB pattern._"

I scroll down and see that it's a Mann. Awesome find. I have a Mann Knot Clipper Double, 4lb. The 36" handle I hung it on makes it a little unwieldy, might put it on a 30"-32" instead.


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## dancan

I took the head off today , it was a bad hang and bad grain orientation on that Mann so I popped the wedges out and took the head off , I'll reuse the haft on a non-user that I have to rehang .
I weighed the head , it is a 3.4 lb'er .
I did rehaft a 3 lb sb Swede today


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## Multifaceted

My Swedish friend sent this to me in the mail, courtesy of Finland.... not your father's Fiskars...










Compared to an old Swedish Collared Axe...


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## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> My Swedish friend sent this to me in the mail, courtesy of Finland.... not your father's Fiskars...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compared to an old Swedish Collared Axe...


Dang it man that is sweet. What kind of money would I have to send you for one of them? [emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## svk

Multifaceted said:


> My Swedish friend sent this to me in the mail, courtesy of Finland.... not your father's Fiskars...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compared to an old Swedish Collared Axe...


Neat!


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## Multifaceted

lead farmer said:


> Dang it man that is sweet. What kind of money would I have to send you for one of them? [emoji16]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



Perhaps talk that old timer into giving you that Hytest Tassie in his saw shop and I might be inclined to consider a trade


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## rarefish383

Went to an auction yesterday to bid on an old Poulan Super 68. Got it and it runs. While I was waiting for the saw they had a row of hand tools leaning against a fence. The auctioneer said high bid gets choice. They did half a row at a time
The high bid was $25 and the guy took a can't hook. Next bid was $10, and an Amish fellow took a digging bar and a plastic leaf rake. The rest of the row went for $1. The Amish guy was looking at the axes, so i had high bid at $7.50, and took both. One Plumb double and one Pennsylvania Rail Road. At first I thought the Plumb had been re hung. After looking at it I'm not sure.


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## rarefish383




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## rarefish383




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## rarefish383

Forgot the cable cutters and pic-a-roon head, with a box of hammers, and pliers, for $1.


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## LondonNeil

bargains!


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## lead farmer

rarefish383 said:


> Forgot the cable cutters and pic-a-roon head, with a box of hammers, and pliers, for $1.


Dibs on the pickaroon.......[emoji16]

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## farmer steve

lead farmer said:


> Dibs on the pickaroon.......[emoji16]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


say pretty please and maybe he will bring it to the GTG for you.


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## Marine5068

dancan said:


> Not much to resto do do on this yardsale find .
> 
> 5 Sheckels


Gerber?
If so, nice find.
I'd hang it in my Jeep.


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## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> View attachment 756373



Good deal, that PA RR is slick - looks like a Dayton pattern to me. How much does the steel weigh?


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## rarefish383

Didn’t look for a weight stamp yet, I’d say over 3. The Plumb double is bigger than the cruiser you hung for me, but smaller than my Collins or American Beauty, didn’t look for a weight stamp on it yet either.


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## H-Ranch

Found this at an estate sale for $5 - longtime family friends of my FIL's family. Barely visible PLUMB marking. Looks to be a Michigan pattern by my rookie eyes. Aluminum wedge makes me think it's been rehung (or maybe that was all the rage in the 1960's.) Thin 34" haft. Now to decide whether to leave the patina and make it a wall hanger (boo!) or some kind of resto-mod or a full restoration.


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## Multifaceted

H-Ranch said:


> Found this at an estate sale for $5 - longtime family friends of my FIL's family. Barely visible PLUMB marking. Looks to be a Michigan pattern by my rookie eyes. Aluminum wedge makes me think it's been rehung (or maybe that was all the rage in the 1960's.) Thin 34" haft. Now to decide whether to leave the patina and make it a wall hanger (boo!) or some kind of resto-mod or a full restoration. View attachment 757237
> 
> View attachment 757240
> View attachment 757242
> View attachment 757244
> View attachment 757245



Yep, nice looking Michigan DBA! Good score. You still see aluminum wedges today, heck, Council Tool still uses them to this day - the Boys Axe comes to mind. My FSS Pulaski came with acrylic wedge that worked its way lookse and I re-hung with a wood and steel stepped wedges


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## Multifaceted

The last couple days I've been working on and off in my shop on a custom handle for one of my two vintage collared axes. One is a Swedish Hults Bruk, the other a Finnish Billnäs. Originally I attempted to hang the HB first, but messed up and rough cut the blank too thin on my band saw, and couldn't close the gap around the collar. Fortunately, the Billnäs has a more narrow and uniform collar, so I was able to modify the carved handle to make it work. Here are some progress pics:


























Right now the handle is straightened and aligned with the bit by guideline. The basic contour is there, all that is left is to shape the wood and thin it out with my preferred ergos on the palm swell. Tools used were band saw, hatchet, draw knife, spokeshave, Shinto rasp, 4-In-Hand rasp, and some 120 grit sandpaper. I modeled the handle as a hybrid western-style subtle cruved bit with a traditional somewhat straight shaft. Most of the curve is nearest to the grip, the haft is mostly straight.


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## 95custmz

Nice work!


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## dancan

Today's yardsale 10$ find




2 1/4 lb HB 
The haft has a crack so it will get a new one at some point


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## dancan

The CastIron Pirates stopped by this week .
They said "Look in the back of the truck, they have your name on them"






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## dancan

Here's some better pics





The long handled one is a Swede , no markings on the shorty .
Neat metal wedge on the Swede .


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## rarefish383

It's nice when professional scroungers do your scrounging for you, nice pick.


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## dancan

I have them trained well !


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## dancan

They brought me a PV today


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## dancan

The CastIron Pirates were by this week 




1 1/4 HB , Unknown but looks to be a Maine wedge , cute little Welland Vale and a Campbell Bros from New Brunswick hewing hatchet .
I like my CastIron Pirates


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## dancan

The haft on the HB is in good shape but a tad undersize , after a 1/2hr's worth of prying I got it off in one piece , next is to get it set on the Welland


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## dancan

Got the haft off of both 
It's the first time I came across a head wedged like this , I've done my last few kinda this way .




The Welland weighed out at 1lb 1oz
The HB is in nice shape .


----------



## Multifaceted

dancan said:


> The CastIron Pirates were by this week
> 
> View attachment 765589
> 
> 
> 1 1/4 HB , Unknown but looks to be a Maine wedge , cute little Welland Vale and a Campbell Bros from New Brunswick hewing hatchet .
> I like my CastIron Pirates



I'm digging that Maine Wedge - great design for a single bit!


----------



## Multifaceted

Here is my finished — *Finnish *Billnäs axe:










Three coats of BLO with intermittent treatment of Extra Fine Steel wool, the a final application of Citrus Oil and Bees Wax.

20° Scandinavian (Flat) grind with a 25° microbevel, honed up to 1000 grit and stropped. Busy few weeks, haven't had time to do some test chops, but this has been done a while already, just wanted to wait to post until I took some swings, but I couldn't wait!

*Next up is my 100 year old Swedish Collared Axe (Hults Bruk)*


----------



## rarefish383

Anyone have a Peugeot hatchet? I think I posted pics last year. I also think I read that Peogeot was a tool maker before a car maker. Any info would be helpful. Are they rare?


----------



## rarefish383

Here are the pics again. I think I'll ask if he wants to sell it?


----------



## rarefish383

If you notice, a steel bar is tacked on the handle, that runs through the eye, and has a tab bent over helping to hold the head on. I thought this was an owner addition. Then I found several on the internet, and they had the bar and tab on them also. Maybe factory?


----------



## Multifaceted

Like I mentioned on the phone yesterday, the pattern looks like a German 'Rhineland' pattern hatchet, but wouldn't mind taking a look at the eye and handle tenon. Looks to be a traditional German D-shaped eye and tenon. The steel bracket is interesting, not sure of factory or user-made, but the idea isn't unusual — very common for traditional Japanese axes, lookie here:


----------



## ray benson

Only one sold on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ni...=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


----------



## DSW

Update.


Early this year I picked this hatchet up with plans to get to it eventually.


View attachment 712816


The head would easily pull off, I don't like yellow, and it had no edge on it. It's going to be a carving hatchet.

I'm not a tool maker or a tool expert by any stretch of the imagination and I've got less than thirty minutes total in it at this point. All freehand and no measurements.

I was actually in the middle of cleaning up some 3/8 scrap steel when I decided I would work on it.

It has widened cheeks near the edge. Won't be needed for my purposes.







Removed those, gave it a rough eyeball bevel. Left the nail puller, doesn't serve a purpose for my needs but it's not hurting anything. Then moved on to getting rid of the ugly yellow finish.




Cleaned up five steel tines, worked on the axe head, and stripped the handle all on the same disc. 




Looking better.




Now. Dislodge crusty old wedge that ain't serving a purpose. Pick up wood chip off the shop floor, taper it, and tap it into the head, temporarily.




That's where it's at. Took my Nicholson file to it, then stripped some pine bark and roughed out a blank with it.

That's the beginning down and dirty stage. I'm gonna put a finish on the handle, fit the head better, and then put a true edge on it. Assuming it'll take a good edge it's gonna get put to work.


----------



## Multifaceted

Great work, looks good!


----------



## DSW

What's everybody like for finishes? Anything darker than boiled linseed without going to a chemical stain?

I haven't had to really bring an edge along in awhile. Should be able to get it where I need it. Doesn't have to be shaving sharp, I've got knives for that. On the other hand, I've never complained about a tool being too sharp.


----------



## DSW

Multifaceted said:


> Great work, looks good!



You have any guesses on the make of it? 

Handle said 1 1/2 Malleable Scout Axe. Don't know if it's even the right handle but 1.5 lbs sounds right, it's a light head. 

I could have sworn I saw an old Collins that had a yellow handle and red head.


----------



## Multifaceted

DSW said:


> You have any guesses on the make of it?
> 
> Handle said 1 1/2 Malleable Scout Axe. Don't know if it's even the right handle but 1.5 lbs sounds right, it's a light head.
> 
> I could have sworn I saw an old Collins that had a yellow handle and red head.



It's really difficult to say, without any markings anything works be just a guess. For a while many big makers forged without markings putting only paper labels that eventually fall off.


----------



## Multifaceted

DSW said:


> What's everybody like for finishes? Anything darker than boiled linseed without going to a chemical stain?
> 
> I haven't had to really bring an edge along in awhile. Should be able to get it where I need it. Doesn't have to be shaving sharp, I've got knives for that. On the other hand, I've never complained about a tool being too sharp.



You could burn the handle. I've seen more control done by using a heat gun instead of a torch, then oil as usual.

As to edge sharpness with an axe, what is more important is your grind. You can sharpen a 45° angle enough to slice paper, but it won't chop wood and sever the fibers very well. I like my axes around 18°-20°, which will require you to file back the cheeks a good bit. A nice thinly ground bit will cut more efficiently. As to sharpeness, well I like to dress mine up to 1000 grit, but for field touch ups, I'll use 240 and some spit or water.


----------



## DSW

Got home around 7:30 and figured I'd tear into the next stage of my little project.

I'm not used to working through every little grit but I figured what the hell.







I'm pleased with it. It ain't perfect but it's better. It ain't running through paper but it was biting into it.








Multifaceted said:


> You could burn the handle. I've seen more control done by using a heat gun instead of a torch, then oil as usual.
> 
> As to edge sharpness with an axe, what is more important is your grind. You can sharpen a 45° angle enough to slice paper, but it won't chop wood and sever the fibers very well. I like my axes around 18°-20°, which will require you to file back the cheeks a good bit. A nice thinly ground bit will cut more efficiently. As to sharpeness, well I like to dress mine up to 1000 grit, but for field touch ups, I'll use 240 and some spit or water.



Funny you say that. After spending a while sharpening, I burnt the handle and covered with oil. I used a torch and boiled linseed because that's what I had. I'm not terribly happy with the outcome. Oh well. I'll see how it wears or if it grows on me.





Now I get to stick it into some wood and see how it does. Looks like there's a bit of micro bevel, unintentional. My Estwing has a really narrow profile so I purposely left this one thicker as I can always take off more later.


----------



## svk

DSW said:


> Got home around 7:30 and figured I'd tear into the next stage of my little project.
> 
> I'm not used to working through every little grit but I figured what the hell.
> 
> View attachment 769991
> 
> 
> View attachment 769992
> 
> 
> I'm pleased with it. It ain't perfect but it's better. It ain't running through paper but it was biting into it.
> 
> View attachment 769993
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny you say that. After spending a while sharpening, I burnt the handle and covered with oil. I used a torch and boiled linseed because that's what I had. I'm not terribly happy with the outcome. Oh well. I'll see how it wears or if it grows on me.
> 
> View attachment 769997
> 
> 
> 
> Now I get to stick it into some wood and see how it does. Looks like there's a bit of micro bevel, unintentional. My Estwing has a really narrow profile so I purposely left this one thicker as I can always take off more later.


I’ve tried to burn things and went a bit past where I wanted as well. 

If you sanded that down a bit it should leave a nice patina.


----------



## DSW

svk said:


> I’ve tried to burn things and went a bit past where I wanted as well.
> 
> If you sanded that down a bit it should leave a nice patina.



Yeah, I can sand it down partially or completely pretty easily.

I had the flame moving the entire time and at a distance and it went from nothing to charred in the blink of an eye. 

It'll be excellent kindling if it breaks at some point. 

I may start roughing out a slightly thicker handle to try on it. But that's probably a case of the grass is always greener.


----------



## DSW

Something I didn't mention, that Nicholson file sunk into that steel head.

Bit disappointing. 

I'm gonna re-profile the head. There's definitely more in there.

I may be on the lookout for a branded hatchet and just upgraded my kindling splitter.


----------



## DSW

The next chapter in the never ending unknown hatchet saga.

I thinned the profile and re-honed the edge. I went ahead and sharpened my Estwing as I've got a couple projects and didn't wanna waste my time if this one didn't turn out. The Estwing isn't ideal but it gets the job done. 

I got through three spoon blanks before I set the hatchet down and tried the Estwing. Then went back to the hatchet. It's definitely a workable tool at this point and that's a long way from where it came. It's not a $300 carving axe, don't get me wrong. It's a cheap hatchet that's much improved. I still need to get a proper wedge in there.

Picture won't do it justice.



Estwing. 




Estwing is a great hatchet. Just lacks in carving because you can't choke up on it very easily and the profile is so thin it becomes counterproductive at points.

I'm satisfied with where it is. I think I'll eventually take more off but I don't wanna get too thin and then have two of the same thing. For right now I'm leaving it. If I come across a Plumb I'll probably modify that one more aggressively.


----------



## Gypo Logger

My favourite hatchet.


----------



## svk

Gypo Logger said:


> View attachment 772471
> My favourite hatchet.


Looks like an army surplus one?


----------



## Backyard Lumberjack

am not too often out of split cedar kindling but...

ran out of already split cedar kindling other nite. had to make some on the run for yesterday's fire.... grabbed one of my handy camp axes. purchased new by poster some 45 years ago. a Sears item... nice lil camp axe. but bit weather worn from time. so couple yrs back did an overhaul to it...

sanded it down, reset head, stained it with watco light walnut and finished it off couple coats Varathane. sometimes I mite use watco dark walnut. I usually finish wood projects with one of those. for anything outdoors I use Varathane spar... I have a dozen or so axes. camp, hip, as well as, long handled, too.

axe has a utility or bit above finish to edge. good enuff for splitting cedar, and leather gloves highly suggested! ~


----------



## svk

“WODKA” as Buckin Billy Ray would say!!


----------



## DSW

Last bit of lipstick I'm gonna put on this ole girl.

Originally:




Now:







The fit is not worthy of a picture. Edge isn't perfect either. But it can go about it's life of making wood chips and splitting small pieces of wood into smaller pieces.


----------



## bigbadbob

These were given to me. Brush axe needed the vinegar treat and handle.


Might have posted B4


----------



## Gypo Logger

svk said:


> Looks like an army surplus one?


Could be, I think its a shake hatchet.


----------



## Gypo Logger

Has anyone heard of V&B manufacturing? They make handles. They’re in Walnut Ridge AR in the heart of hickory country. Sounds like a cool place to visit. I’ll put it on my bucket list.
I couldn’t figure out how to link it here, but I have one of their wedges.


----------



## rarefish383

Went to a 2 day auction last weekend. Bought 3 old saws, two Lombards, and one Kee Line(David Bradley). They had a really sweet Plumb Cruiser I wanted bad. I told Multifaceted I'd grab the next one I saw for him. This one was nicer than the one he hung for me. Only problem, it was the very last item to be sold. And I was heading to hunting camp and couldn't wait for it. My neighbor in WV saw the old saws, and has a few for me to look at later. Told him I collected axes too. He said he had one to give me. It belonged to his BIL that I always talked to. Shorty died of a heart attack last spring at 65 years old. I think Robert was a little surprised that I was so honored to have Shorty's ax. It's a big old hewing ax, wrong handle, painted black. I think I'll have the head lettered, "My neighbor, Dice "Shorty" Halterman" . With his date of birth and date of death on it.


----------



## Multifaceted

Joe, at first glance that broad axe looks like a Kent pattern.


----------



## Plowmaster

rarefish383 said:


> Went to a 2 day auction last weekend. Bought 3 old saws, two Lombards, and one Kee Line(David Bradley). They had a really sweet Plumb Cruiser I wanted bad. I told Multifaceted I'd grab the next one I saw for him. This one was nicer than the one he hung for me. Only problem, it was the very last item to be sold. And I was heading to hunting camp and couldn't wait for it. My neighbor in WV saw the old saws, and has a few for me to look at later. Told him I collected axes too. He said he had one to give me. It belonged to his BIL that I always talked to. Shorty died of a heart attack last spring at 65 years old. I think Robert was a little surprised that I was so honored to have Shorty's ax. It's a big old hewing ax, wrong handle, painted black. I think I'll have the head lettered, "My neighbor, Dice "Shorty" Halterman" . With his date of birth and date of death on it.View attachment 777111


What is the definition of "cruiser". Would it be a lite weight double blade? Im thinking what we refer to as a saddle axe.
Thanks for any info


----------



## Multifaceted

Plowmaster said:


> What is the definition of "cruiser". Would it be a lite weight double blade? Im thinking what we refer to as a saddle axe.
> Thanks for any info



Saddle axe would be the same as a Cruiser, 2-3 lb double bit hung on a 24"-28" handle. The "Cruiser" name comes from their development as a needed tool to be used by the Timber Cruisers of the PNW. Typically a Cruiser is 2.5 lb on a 28" handle. Very capable axe for its modest weight.


----------



## Plowmaster

Multifaceted said:


> Saddle axe would be the same as a Cruiser, 2-3 lb double bit hung on a 24"-28" handle. The "Cruiser" name comes from their development as a needed tool to be used by the Timber Cruisers of the PNW. Typically a Cruiser is 2.5 lb on a 28" handle. Very capable axe for its modest weight.


I have a plumb that has a large 3 then a small 2 would that be a cruiser? It seems to be 2/3rds the size of a full sized axe.


----------



## Multifaceted

Plowmaster said:


> I have a plumb that has a large 3 then a small 2 would that be a cruiser? It seems to be 2/3rds the size of a full sized axe.



Not sure, could you post a photo or perhaps weight it?

The eyes are smaller than full sized double bits too, typically around 2¼"x ⅝"


----------



## Plowmaster

Multifaceted said:


> Not sure, could you post a photo or perhaps weight it?
> 
> The eyes are smaller than full sized double bits too, typically around 2¼"x ⅝"


I will try... thinking it has larger eye. But I have a pair of Walters that one is definetly a cruiser. 25 in handle and probably 2 lb


----------



## Brian Thacker

I had an hatchet given to me, it is kind of odd and do not know what it is or what it is used for. I was hoping that someone on this forum could give me some information on it. This is my first time on this forum, I usually stay on the chainsaw forum. Notice that one side is contoured and the other side is flat. it is sharpened on just one side. It is just odd to me.

Brian


----------



## Multifaceted

Brian Thacker said:


> I had an hatchet given to me, it is kind of odd and do not know what it is or what it is used for. I was hoping that someone on this forum could give me some information on it. This is my first time on this forum, I usually stay on the chainsaw forum. Notice that one side is contoured and the other side is flat. it is sharpened on just one side. It is just odd to me.
> 
> Brian



That is a hewing hatchet, they are used to square up timber or chopping a flat surface for framing and/or joinery.


----------



## Brian Thacker

Thank You. I knew it had to be something like that. 

I have no use for this hatchet. Anyone want it? I cut firewood but do not do wood working. I hate to see it become a wall hanger when someone could use it or a collector want it for there collection.

Brian


----------



## Multifaceted

Brian Thacker said:


> Thank You. I knew it had to be something like that.
> 
> I have no use for this hatchet. Anyone want it? I cut firewood but do not do wood working. I hate to see it become a wall hanger when someone could use it or a collector want it for there collection.
> 
> Brian



Well, of course I want it! Ha ha, but to be fair, perhaps see who else is interested, then pull a random number out of a hat and give it to the lucky feller. I'm sure anyone would gladly pay the shipping


----------



## Marine5068

Multifaceted said:


> Here is my finished — *Finnish *Billnäs axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three coats of BLO with intermittent treatment of Extra Fine Steel wool, the a final application of Citrus Oil and Bees Wax.
> 
> 20° Scandinavian (Flat) grind with a 25° microbevel, honed up to 1000 grit and stropped. Busy few weeks, haven't had time to do some test chops, but this has been done a while already, just wanted to wait to post until I took some swings, but I couldn't wait!
> 
> *Next up is my 100 year old Swedish Collared Axe (Hults Bruk)*


Yours are almost too pretty to use.


----------



## Marine5068

I haven't had the time to work on my little hatchet yet.
It just hangs on the wall.


----------



## Marine5068

Brian Thacker said:


> I had an hatchet given to me, it is kind of odd and do not know what it is or what it is used for. I was hoping that someone on this forum could give me some information on it. This is my first time on this forum, I usually stay on the chainsaw forum. Notice that one side is contoured and the other side is flat. it is sharpened on just one side. It is just odd to me.
> 
> Brian


Hewing hatchet.
Looks old. Very old.


----------



## Multifaceted

Marine5068 said:


> Yours are almost too pretty to use.



Thank you kindly. While I do take the time to make then my own and look nice, nothing looks prettier than some wear on a tool, and I REALLY enjoy them once they've got some noticable use on them. On the pieces I keep, they all get used!


----------



## LondonNeil

has anybody read 'The ax book' by dudley Cook? thinking of a christmas present for myself....I've read Norwegian wood and fancied something else tree/wood/axe/sw related but not too basic.


----------



## rarefish383

Plowmaster said:


> I have a plumb that has a large 3 then a small 2 would that be a cruiser? It seems to be 2/3rds the size of a full sized axe.


Here's the Plumb Cruiser that Clarence hung for me. On the display board it's the 3rd from the left, for some perspective on size.


----------



## SS396driver

Hasn't been restored but was my dads. He was a volunteer fireman and it was from the Thornwood NY firehouse.


----------



## Multifaceted

Nice Hudson Bay pattern.


----------



## SS396driver

Multifaceted said:


> Nice Hudson Bay pattern.


Never really thought about the design Just a nice fellers hatchet . Been using it for that last 35 years. No markings on it.


----------



## lead farmer

SS396driver said:


> Never really thought about the design Just a nice fellers hatchet . Been using it for that last 35 years. No markings on it.


They are me favorite [emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## farmer steve

MechanicMatt said:


> Another AX poster for ya fellasView attachment 782496


Matt posted this over in scrounging firewood. Thought you guys might like it if you never saw it.


----------



## DSW

Was there a maker that used the phantom bevels that wasn't Plumb or Kelly related?


----------



## Plowmaster

DSW said:


> Was there a maker that used the phantom bevels that wasn't Plumb or Kelly related?


I have one of unknown origins. It has a capitol "N" out in the middle of nowhere. Double say about 3.5 lb. Can't figure out how to load photo from samsung phone.


----------



## Plowmaster

DSW said:


> Was there a maker that used the phantom bevels that wasn't Plumb or Kelly related?


----------



## DSW

I found a nice little number, held off since I was shopping for my wife. One of those if i go back and its not there I'll regret it.

Phantom bevels but didn't see a maker but when(if) i get it in my hands i might find a name i couldn't see in the dim shop.


----------



## CR888

I always enjoy the part when a cup wheel wire brush reveals the makers mark on an ax head. Many of my axes came to me with surface rust that hides its precise identity. Its one of those little surprise joyous moments that keeps enjoying the forged iron & going back for more.


----------



## DSW

Made a sheath for my hatchet.


----------



## DSW

Not a lot of pictures of the process but here's a Plumb I modified.
















I'm gonna be making a sale thread for both of these hatchets and a couple other pieces. So let me know or keep an eye out for that if you're interested.


----------



## Gypo Logger

Check out the Fiskars hatchet I found in the bush today!


----------



## MechanicMatt

Y’all gonna make me bring my boys ax home from deer camp. Uncle Mike has a TON of Fiskars tools up there now so the old boys ax I brought up over 25years ago gets ZERO use.....


----------



## DSW

Gypo Logger said:


> View attachment 784139
> Check out the Fiskars hatchet I found in the bush today!



Fiskars in the bush, that just doesn't seem right.


----------



## Gypo Logger

DSW said:


> Fiskars in the bush, that just doesn't seem right.


Sorry, I spelled fingers wrong.


----------



## dancan

Gypo Logger said:


> View attachment 784139
> Check out the Fiskars hatchet I found in the bush today!



Nice detail work on that maul handle .


----------



## cat10ken

I tried out a used saw today that I bought yesterday; a Dolmar PS-510, 2015 model. 50 cc saw is my smallest saw now and the 16" bar with safety chain is hard on my back; I'm more used to 20-24" bars. The saw looks like it just came off the dealer shelf, has original chain that hasn't been sharpened. It runs great and idles perfectly. I looked online for new prices and see one for $429. He was asking $225. I offered $200 and he took it. I think it will be a great little saw.


----------



## Multifaceted

Gypo Logger said:


> View attachment 784139
> Check out the Fiskars hatchet I found in the bush today!



What's that you got in the carboy (jug) with the airlock on in the back there, guy?


----------



## DSW

Figured I'd run out back to the free forestry store and pick up a slew of handles. Hour or so? 

Didn't go quite as I planned. I persisted and did end up with some usable blanks and one now even resembles a handle. I'm saving the longer ones until I feel I have a good grip on it. (No pun intended)


----------



## DSW

This piece already had a split but it was just a tester anyway. If it holds up that'd be alright as well.

Roughed out. Chopped a little piece of pine with it.


----------



## rarefish383

DSW said:


> This piece already had a split but it was just a tester anyway. If it holds up that'd be alright as well.
> 
> Roughed out. Chopped a little piece of pine with it.
> 
> View attachment 785659


I like the shape, looks like a keeper.


----------



## rarefish383

Yesterday and today I'm cleaning up the garage, putting up some live edge Oak shelves for the chainsaws. Found at least 6 axes in corners, and only cleaned half of one wall. Found one of those Swedish brush axes, the name is avoiding me now. I got it at an auction. The auctioneer got down to $3 and I asked if he would take $1. He said they had a new policy, no bids under $3. He told his helper to stick it in a pile and said no sale. He knows me, I buy all of the old Homelites they get in. So, he pointed at a guy and said he was the seller, he let me have it for a buck.


----------



## rarefish383

The Swedish brush ax is a Sandvik. I got up my Echo shelf and maybe 12 feet of wall is neat and clean. I'm thinking of moving all of my non running shelf saws to the building in WV, and all of the display axes will go up there too. Sorry Clarence, I have lots of saws and axes I don't use.


----------



## lead farmer

rarefish383 said:


> The Swedish brush ax is a Sandvik. I got up my Echo shelf and maybe 12 feet of wall is neat and clean. I'm thinking of moving all of my non running shelf saws to the building in WV, and all of the display axes will go up there too. Sorry Clarence, I have lots of saws and axes I don't use.


We need pics of said Shelf

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## rarefish383

K, but I only have 4 Echos, it's my smallest shelf. I had to put a David Bradley on it to fill it up. I'll add a couple axes to stay On Topic. I really wanted the little ax in my hand, but I was at a big auction with 3 auctioneers going. I bought several big Homeltes, and when I got back to the barn with the axes, they were all sold.


----------



## DSW

Your axe addiction must be in remission.

I woulda stayed glued to that little number.


----------



## rarefish383

DSW said:


> Your axe addiction must be in remission.
> 
> I woulda stayed glued to that little number.


Well, I have a real big addiction to Homelites, especially when they get up in the 100CC range. I bought a beautiful Super 1050 with a 24" bar in excellent running condition for $150 and two 80CC saws for $5 each. One of which, the Homelite C72, I now have running. I do miss the little ax, but, I'd miss the saws more.


----------



## AmateurSawer

Multifaceted said:


> Greetings, all:
> 
> First time poster here, figured this would be the best thread since I'm a becoming a full-fledged axe junkie. Here are some of the projects I've completed this year, hopefully it is not too picture heavy... I have many, many more in the works.
> 
> Mann Knot Klipper 4.25 lb Double Bit Western or Penn Pattern:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Some unknown Hudson Bay Pattern, was in bad shape...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> An unknown Jersey type pattern with rounds lugs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------
> 
> Council Tool Rockaway-Jersey 3.5 lb:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------
> 
> Shapleigh Hardware Co. Diamond Edge Lugged Single Bit:


 I like the work you guys have done.What are you using on the handles to bring out the grain?I'm not familiar with wood working but I would like to make the grain show in tool handles.


----------



## rarefish383

I use boiled linseed oil.


----------



## Multifaceted

Boiled Linseed Oil, I'll often do three coats before using. Wipe on liberally, let sit for 15-20 minutes, then wipe off excess and let dry for 24 hours. Repeat three times.

Sometimes I'll take a small amount of dark stain and apply to wood, then immediately wipe off. This works well to bring out the grain without darkening the wood very much. Burning the grain in my experience can raise the grain of not careful which makes the wood splintery.


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> Sorry Clarence, I have lots of saws and axes I don't use.



Why apologize? You do you, at least they're not in the dump!


----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> Why apologize? You do you, at least they're not in the dump!


Haha, yeah. I just like to caress them. If they are bad I might throw one at a Black Walnut slab.


----------



## MechanicMatt

I was thinking of this thread when I was splitting today. I inherited this hatchet from my moms dad. It used to have a nicer handle but I broke it. I had to whittle down this handle to make it work. Keep this little guy near the splitter to take care of the stringy crap. Works great. About 9 years ago I gave it an orange paint job to keep from losing it. Love it simply because it was once my gramps


----------



## DSW

Feeling stock handles out of a bin today. I have so many old handles on my axes and hatchets I forget how thick they are off the shelf.

They had a 'maul handle' that was like a Coke can.


----------



## DSW

@Multifaceted 

I mentioned that little axe I picked up to finish the cordwood challenge last year, a while back.

I pulled it out and took a look at it. That bit is nearly a 1/4 inch thick about 1.5 to 2 inches back. Things like a chisel. 

It's pretty good steel though. Might do a microbevel or something on it and see how it does.


----------



## DSW

MechanicMatt said:


> Love it simply because it was once my gramps



That's the best reason to like anything.


----------



## MechanicMatt

DSW said:


> That's the best reason to like anything.


My grandpa had three daughters and no sons. The last words he spoke to me on his death bed, “you were always my boy”. Makes me tear up every time I remember it. We had the same birthday and we were connected at the hip whenever I was over their house. Taught me a lot, mostly that my dad wasn’t crazy and men really do work hard. My dads side, the men are just wired to work like their lives depend on it. My moms dad reinforced it. Grandpa Newt was one in a million!!


----------



## DSW

Busted a handle on the mallet while fitting a handle to an axe. 1 step forward, 2 steps back.


----------



## DSW

Had a chance to use these two. 

The first one I posted before, the handle is ash off my property, split and carved out with hand tools. The hang is no good, mental error at some point and it wasn't left wide enough to fill the head. This thing is a killer. 4 pound head with a 25 inch handle that feels great. The head was $5, cleaned up real well and has hardly been touched before me. 

The second one came from ash lumber that my grandpa sawed at one point. It's very thin and still very dimensional, doesn't feel very good yet, needs more work. The hang is pretty good. The head I bought last year, very thin, good steel, bites hard but sticks a lot. For certain woods and sizes it's a killer. In the big stuff it just doesn't perform.


----------



## DSW

@dancan has been awful quiet lately. 

Has he found so many Swedish bargains that he can't possibly post?


----------



## dancan

Lol
I've got a couple dozen heads (or more) that I have to haft , lots of db's .
They're not all pretty but almost a dozen were given to me .
With life and so many other projects on the go eating up any spare time I think that I've done 1 hatchet since September .

Soon ...


----------



## DSW

Dang brother. I wasn't too far off haha. 

Nice. Pretty or not, I'm sure they'll do the trick.

I hear ya. Over here, at least the sun is staying out longer. That puts a little pep in the step.


----------



## rarefish383

I've seen a few really nice axes at my honey whole auction, but another collector has been out bidding me on every thing. I talked to him when he out bid me on a beautiful Kelly. He said he bought out a big collection back in the summer, 1200 axes for $10,000. He said that they have kept him busy selling them, so I guess he's a flipper, not a collector. I passed this little Norlund last week because it was in the last row of the last building, my dog gets fed at 4, and it was 430, and they don't start the last building till 7. So, I just let it go.


----------



## rarefish383




----------



## abbott295

I have been working on putting a handle on one of my Jersey pattern heads. It seemed to have a larger (longer) eye than most of the handles available in stores, big box and hardware, locally, but I found one sitting around the place that my son apparently left. I'm not sure what it came off of, but it looked like it might fit the eye of this Jersey better. After fitting it, no, it doesn't fill the eye any better, but I'll go with it for now. I don't do pictures often enough to remember how to post them; maybe it's easier from the phone directly. 














Okay, these are the pictures. I have to put in a wedge and sharpen the axe and add more boiled linseed oil. I might have given the other Jersey to my son; maybe it's still around. I had been looking at a handle meant for a brush axe as having a longer eye profile to fit this Jersey.


----------



## svk

I’ve come across a few older heads that had the longer eye like that. I usually whittle something to fit in the gap prior to wedging it.


----------



## rarefish383

I’ve made Walnut wedges that are kind of T shaped that fill the big gap in front, and then taper like a normal wedge in the groove. They fill the hole and look good too.


----------



## DSW

I guess I'll go ahead and throw this in. Couple days ago.

I carved a little piece of ash and pounded it into the head to fill a gap that was my fault on a rough handle I like. Not only does it fill the gap, it is tapered, and I drove it from the bottom side with the idea there's now two wedges working against each other. No idea how long it'll last. Right now it has an hour of chopping and hasn't moved.


----------



## Erik B

I have noticed a couple of time when I was at a local gun show, someone had a table of axe heads they were selling. Have you looked at gun shows for axe heads?


----------



## rarefish383

I've never seen them at a gun show, but have seen lots in antique shops. Usually when some one takes the time and money to set up a table they want way more than I'd pay. But, I'm super cheap, I seldom go over 5-10 bucks with a good handle and a name in the steel. Most antique shops want 25-100 bucks for an ax I'd get at a farm sale for 1-2 bucks. I would definitely look them over if i did see them, never know when you get a deal.


----------



## LondonNeil

I can get axe handles with longer than normal eye portions, it must be a reasonably common british size. I still haven't got round to hanging the 6lb Wetterlings I picked up though as it had a wide eye, about 28mm or 1 and 1/8" and I've not found a handle for it despite a lot of searching. I have however just bought a maul handle (well 3 actually) with a rectangular eye bit, that IS wide enough, although a bit short....half inch or more short. I'm going to try and glue a piece of hardwood on to the back side before I shave it down to fit. How well that works will likely depend on the quality of my woodwork in planning the surfaces flat....it won't work then, hmm...maybe I should screw it.


----------



## DSW

LondonNeil said:


> I can get axe handles with longer than normal eye portions, it must be a reasonably common british size. I still haven't got round to hanging the 6lb Wetterlings I picked up though as it had a wide eye, about 28mm or 1 and 1/8" and I've not found a handle for it despite a lot of searching. I have however just bought a maul handle (well 3 actually) with a rectangular eye bit, that IS wide enough, although a bit short....half inch or more short. I'm going to try and glue a piece of hardwood on to the back side before I shave it down to fit. How well that works will likely depend on the quality of my woodwork in planning the surfaces flat....it won't work then, hmm...maybe I should screw it.





Once you glue the piece are you going to cut a kerf through it and then wedge as normal?


----------



## cat10ken

For shaping the wood on my axe handles to make it fit the head, I just use my bench grinder. It's real easy to remove a little wood and try the fit and then remove a little more till it fits right. A rasp is too time consuming.


----------



## dancan

cat10ken said:


> For shaping the wood on my axe handles to make it fit the head, I just use my bench grinder. It's real easy to remove a little wood and try the fit and then remove a little more till it fits right. A rasp is too time consuming.



Didn't know it was a race but I have been known to use a belt sander once or twice lol


----------



## Welderman85

Hello all I'm new to axes. And firwood in general. I was at my grandfather's farm and found this axe I don't think it's very old but not well cared for. I would like to fix it and use it.


----------



## Welderman85

I got a little in a hurry today and played with sharpening with a lanskey puck. I really like the handle and the feel of it but the head it pulled up on the handle. How do I reset it? what's the best way to to clean it up? And when sharpening with a puck do I use oil or water or anything on the stone. Sorry for the 20 questions I'm new. Thank you


----------



## dancan

I'd pop the head off that , work the haft a bit and rewedge .
Skillcult has a lot of good ax how to vids .


----------



## MechanicMatt

Welcome to the world of firewood. One of the guys that’s smarter than I will come and set ya straight. I have a few of my gramps tools and love using them simply for the relationship factor. Once upon a time, Grandpa used this and now I am too!!


----------



## dancan

Welderman85 said:


> I got a little in a hurry today and played with sharpening with a lanskey puck. I really like the handle and the feel of it but the head it pulled up on the handle. How do I reset it? what's the best way to to clean it up? And when sharpening with a puck do I use oil or water or anything on the stone. Sorry for the 20 questions I'm new. Thank you



I use water and simple green on my stones and a sharp knife at 90* will clean up a haft in a hurry .


----------



## Welderman85

I don't know the brand but it has usa stamped in it. What a good way to the head off the shaft and reset it. Also what can I use to take care or the rust


----------



## DSW

Does it come loose if swung? Sometimes they will move down a bit but not all the way off. 

The easy way is to leave it, the right way would be to tap it out and refit it.

I've done both.


----------



## DSW

rarefish383 said:


> 1200 axes for $10,000.




WIFE. WOULD.KILL.ME.


----------



## abbott295

I got my Jersey hung, and filed a bit, sharp enough to do some chopping but not quite all the dings out of the edge. I shaped an end of the wood wedge, cut it off and drove it in the gap at the front and then drove the rest of the wedge in the kerf. Looks good and tight. I haven't put in the metal wedge yet, don't know if I will. I'll get a few pictures up some time. 

I don't see any markings on the head; no idea who made it or where. 

Bench grinder and belt sander could be used if you had them set up, but a rasp can be used anywhere and the coarse side takes wood off quickly.


----------



## LondonNeil

DSW said:


> Once you glue the piece are you going to cut a kerf through it and then wedge as normal?


Yes that's what I'm thinking


----------



## DSW

LondonNeil said:


> Yes that's what I'm thinking



It's pretty impressive how well glue will hold on a properly set up piece. I'm not sure how it would handle the wedging action. I try a lot of goofy things if there isn't much to lose. If you just end up back where you started, no big loss.


----------



## LondonNeil

indeed, the maul handles were cheap, so cheap i bought 3 so I can practice.


----------



## DSW

Well, the head never did come loose.


----------



## MechanicMatt

Yikes...... not gonna hit the like button on that one


----------



## DSW

That ash had imperfections and a split at the bottom,I expected to destroy it before it ever saw the woods. It had a good run. Not much on the eyes but that thing had a feel to it.


----------



## Wazzu

Anyone know about Pulaski axes? I have this one and the wedge seems to be made of plastic or something. I’ve never seen them that way before.


----------



## dancan

Is that Plumb or Collins ?


----------



## Wazzu

Not sure, it’s a US Forrest Service model.


----------



## DSW

Whoops.




Highly valuable handle broken.

I sometimes light my stove with $100 bills.


----------



## DSW

Here's a close up of the ash handle with defects. You can see the trench lines. Hard to say how much that weakened it.


----------



## Multifaceted

Wazzu said:


> Anyone know about Pulaski axes? I have this one and the wedge seems to be made of plastic or something. I’ve never seen them that way before. View attachment 795616
> View attachment 795617
> View attachment 795618



I have a Council Tool FSS Pulaski, came with the stupid plastic wedge. If you actually plan on using it, I'd replace it with a wooden wedge with a metal safety or stepped cross-wedge. The plastic is slippery and starts to pop out making the head come loose. Really annoying, especially when you're grubbing with it. Not really sure why CT uses plastic wedges, especially for the Forest Service... Heck, even an aluminum would be better, and they use aluminum wedges on other axe models, notable the boys axe.


----------



## rwoods

I splintered my axe handle on Saturday pounding falling wedges in an ash. I bought the best grained hickory handle at the COOP today. Grain not perfectly up and down but at least mostly up and down. Most of their handles had the grain running perfectly horizontal. Anyway my question is about the fit. As you can see in the picture the handle does not fill the eye top to bottom. Should I hang it? Or go looking somewhere else for a bigger handle? Axe is a 5# Plumb in a rafting pattern. I use it mainly for pounding falling wedges.




Ron


----------



## Gypo Logger

Great thread here with a lot of history!
Anyway I saw this maul yesterday and couldn’t resist buying it. 
It has that Viking berserker look to it.
Made in Sweden by Hultafors.
Does anyone own one and what do you think of it?


----------



## old guy

Gypo Logger said:


> View attachment 797205
> Great thread here with a lot of history!
> Anyway I saw this maul yesterday and couldn’t resist buying it.
> It has that Viking berserker look to it.
> Made in Sweden by Hultafors.
> Does anyone own one and what do you think of it?


Looks a lot like my Husqvarna branded splitter, hav'nt used it yet.


----------



## rarefish383

Ron, I wish I had taken a picture. What I did was make an "extended" wedge out of Walnut. Looking down on it, like your picture, it was kind of arrow head shaped. it filled the gap in the front, then was a normal wedge in the kerf. It worked well and never came out, I may have put a little epoxy on it too, can't remember.

Looking at your picture, where the handle starts to taper into a point, and is not touching the steel, I filed that flat to give the "Arrow Head" part of my wedge something to hold onto, if that makes sense.


----------



## svk

Gypo Logger said:


> View attachment 797205
> Great thread here with a lot of history!
> Anyway I saw this maul yesterday and couldn’t resist buying it.
> It has that Viking berserker look to it.
> Made in Sweden by Hultafors.
> Does anyone own one and what do you think of it?


Post up in the "Splitting Tool Review Thread". I believe most of the people who own that style like them.


----------



## rarefish383

Here's a pic of my throwing ax. I made an extended, or long wedge, for it. It's wider in front where the handle didn't fill in. After I got it fit, I could see a little light coming past the wood. So, I poured epoxy on top and let it seep into any voids. This ax takes quite a beating. It's hit hard on the top of the head, and square on the end of the handle. Has not budged yet.


----------



## rwoods

rarefish383 said:


> Ron, I wish I had taken a picture. What I did was make an "extended" wedge out of Walnut. Looking down on it, like your picture, it was kind of arrow head shaped. it filled the gap in the front, then was a normal wedge in the kerf. It worked well and never came out, I may have put a little epoxy on it too, can't remember.
> 
> Looking at your picture, where the handle starts to taper into a point, and is not touching the steel, I filed that flat to give the "Arrow Head" part of my wedge something to hold onto, if that makes sense.



If I am understanding correctly, you made a wedge shaped like the up arrow symbol on a key board and inserted it upside down so it had full wood to wood contact and full wood to metal contact.

I will see what I can do. The factory wedge looks like poplar to me.

Ron


----------



## Gypo Logger

svk said:


> Post up in the "Splitting Tool Review Thread". I believe most of the people who own that style like them.


Will do. Thx.
Don’t you just hate it when some wood tick comes in and details a perfectly good thread?


----------



## rarefish383

rwoods said:


> If I am understanding correctly, you made a wedge shaped like the up arrow symbol on a key board and inserted it upside down so it had full wood to wood contact and full wood to metal contact.
> 
> I will see what I can do. The factory wedge looks like poplar to me.
> 
> Ron


Most of the factory wedges I've seen are Poplar.

I don"t mean I drive the point of the arrow in the groove. The wedge has a big head to fill the void where the ax handle does not fill the ax up. If you look at it from the side it looks like a regular wedge. If you look straight down on it, it looks like a yield sign, with the point up.


----------



## rarefish383

I wish I knew how to do graphics on the computer. If the ax head is the big piece, and the handle is the dotted line, the shaft doesn't fill the ax. So, I make the wedge to fill the empty space. I make the filler part of the wedge deep enough that it's even with the bottom of the ax head. Increasing use Walnut is it's soft enough to shape with a rasp or file.


----------



## rarefish383

I hate spell check. That was supposed to be,"the reason I use Walnut"


----------



## DSW

Just remember a typical wedge doesn't go the full length of the eye. It would have to be stepped for that to work.


----------



## rarefish383

DSW said:


> Just remember a typical wedge doesn't go the full length of the eye. It would have to be stepped for that to work.


Yep, it is.


----------



## LondonNeil

I believe hultafors (or hults bruk) make the husky axes. it may not have the quality of fit and finish of something like a granfors, but it should be a quality axe.


----------



## rwoods

rarefish383 said:


> I wish I knew how to do graphics on the computer. If the ax head is the big piece, and the handle is the dotted line, the shaft doesn't fill the ax. So, I make the wedge to fill the empty space. I make the filler part of the wedge deep enough that it's even with the bottom of the ax head. Increasing use Walnut is it's soft enough to shape with a rasp or file.



That is what I had envisioned except I thought you squared off the bottom of the handle and squared the wings to fit the handle. 




Ron


----------



## MechanicMatt

Dang, you guys are good. I’m embarrassed to show the “handle” my daughter and I made a few years back for her hammer. She found the head in my gramps old shop and wanted to use it again.

we made it out of a piece of kindling (red oak) and then she wanted to stain it to match her other handle.

Works for whatever my 10yo daughter uses for. I really wonder sometimes what she hammers, but honestly to afraid to ask.


----------



## dancan

Gypo Logger said:


> View attachment 797205
> Great thread here with a lot of history!
> Anyway I saw this maul yesterday and couldn’t resist buying it.
> It has that Viking berserker look to it.
> Made in Sweden by Hultafors.
> Does anyone own one and what do you think of it?



I have one , buyers remorse on it .


----------



## dancan

This one out preforms it in a heartbeat .
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...g-tools/axes/20124-iltis-oxhead-splitting-axe
The Fiscars are better than it but they have no soul lol


----------



## Gypo Logger

dancan said:


> I have one , buyers remorse on it .


I like the look of it except for the short handle. 36” would be much more effective, so I wood have to carve my own handle. I don’t understand why handle manufacturers have to saw a split in the head of the handle. I think it just weakens it.
I checked out your link but I’d have to hold it in my hands to decide if it was yet just another club.


----------



## dancan

It's not the holding in the hand , it's what the business end of the club does it meets what you want to split .
I found that even the X25 was a better club .
I wanted it to work , I like the look and I got it wholesale but found it not as efficient as my other clubs in the spruce, birch, fir, pine, maple and oak that I've been busting up .


----------



## DSW

She's back.





Went from a 25 incher on a 4 lb head to a 20 incher on a 2.5 lb head.




I was running out of shoulder. Good enough for me.





I had a curved ash blank to put on the 4 pounder. Sawed as lumber years ago not splits that I knew had the borer. Started shaping the head and found a lot of tunnels. So much for that.


----------



## U&A

Well its not a “restoration” by any means but I’m modifying this cheap axe to be my wedge pounder. Its a cheap “Do It Best” from my favorite old time hardwear store. 


https://www.doitbest.com/shop/hand-...tern-axe-with-29-in-hickory-handle?SKU=348190

I originally had the weight estimation wrong. This is a 2.5lbs bit on a hickory handle. Handle looks good actually. Steel im not sure about yet. But for hitting wedges and the rare occasion of a pinched bar retrieval it’s perfectly fine.

Cut it down to 24” for now. May cut it a bit shorter to 21” but ill use it first for a while.

Sanded it down real nice and she is getting treated with boiled linseed oil right now. 

Will see how it holds up. 

FYI: i have the bug[emoji1787]... have 4 bids on axe bits on ebay right now[emoji2957]

Before oil






After 3 coats 







Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## rarefish383

rwoods said:


> That is what I had envisioned except I thought you squared off the bottom of the handle and squared the wings to fit the handle.
> 
> View attachment 797339
> 
> 
> Ron


You got it. Some times I square it off. If I have a lot of time I'll fit it to wrap around the taper. Looks cool with the dark Walnut against a white Hickory handle. White as in color, not species


----------



## U&A

My first restoration project is on the way[emoji847]. Unmarked but for my first one....no big deal.

What ya think?







Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## MechanicMatt

Y’all got me wanting to load the girls up tomorrow morning and head up to deer camp to go pick up my boys ax I brought up there 23 years ago. I’ll also be grabbing my grandpa’s ax outta the house. My grandma passed last fall and my mom and aunt will be putting the house up for sale this spring. I got dibs on all my gramps tools. I’ve used that old ax a few times there. Mainly when I’d pinch my saw bucking rounds......


----------



## rarefish383

U&A said:


> My first restoration project is on the way[emoji847]. Unmarked but for my first one....no big deal.
> 
> What ya think?
> Im on my cell so it looks small, but, in pretty good shape. Just wstch you dont get carried away and pay too much for them. I just ler a beautiful Kelly perfect go for $40.it still had the origin al handle with no chips, and never had a file to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

Well,

Guess I have to be careful placing bids on things. Another is on the way[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] 







Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## LondonNeil

the double bit true temper looks good. the handle on the wedge pounder...isn't. the grain runs out along its length, makes it prone to splitting.


----------



## lead farmer

LondonNeil said:


> the double bit true temper looks good. the handle on the wedge pounder...isn't. the grain runs out along its length, makes it prone to splitting.


Yesp

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## U&A

LondonNeil said:


> the double bit true temper looks good. the handle on the wedge pounder...isn't. the grain runs out along its length, makes it prone to splitting.



Thank you sir[emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji847]

Im hear to learn. It was a cheap on so it doesn’t bother me to much. 

Were can i get some education on what the grain on a good handle looks like 


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## dancan

Skilcult has a good youtube channel
Grain like yours but 90* would have been perfect .


----------



## rwoods

U&A said:


> Thank you sir[emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji847]
> 
> Im hear to learn. It was a cheap on so it doesn’t bother me to much.
> 
> Were can i get some education on what the grain on a good handle looks like
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]



The end grain should go up and down (vertical) instead of side to side (horizontal). Almost impossible in my market to find one. 1 in 10 seem to be more vertical than horizontal; the rest are horizontal. IME the prettiest and straightest handles with tight grains are almost always horizontal like yours so the strong ones are counterintuitive from an appearance viewpoint.

Ron


----------



## U&A

rwoods said:


> The end grain should go up and down (vertical) instead of side to side (horizontal). Almost impossible in my market to find one. 1 in 10 seem to be more vertical than horizontal; the rest are horizontal. IME the prettiest and straightest handles with tight grains are almost always horizontal like yours so the strong ones are counterintuitive from an appearance viewpoint.
> 
> Ron



Very helpful sir and it makes total sense! Thank you much for the explanation. [emoji4]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## dancan

Good grain











Not good grain


----------



## U&A

dancan said:


> Good grain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not good grain



Thanks [emoji1303]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

So in this photo. Is this ok to have? The axe head pealing the wood away some from seating it on the handle? 







Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## dancan

Yup , tight fit and the final setting of the head before the wedge .
I clean the curl up when I finish .


----------



## dancan

When it's set like that you clean with a knife or chisel, you do not want it to butt up on a 90* shoulder .
This way if the head does become loose you can work that area of the haft and then jump the head down for a rewedge .


----------



## dancan

You will see this grain alot on Euro axes and mauls , the theory is that it acts kinda like a leaf spring giving it a bit of flex .
I've busted a fair amount of handles , grain not following down the full length of the haft (Grain runout) has been the most common reason for failure .


----------



## Multifaceted

And yet another joins the fray...


----------



## rwoods

Question for the axe men - would a tight vertical grain white oak make a good handle? I know hickory and ash are typical but don’t know if the value of white oak for other purposes keeps it off the handle market or it’s “splittability”.

Ron


----------



## U&A

rwoods said:


> Question for the axe men - would a tight vertical grain white oak make a good handle? I know hickory and ash are typical but don’t know if the value of white oak for other purposes keeps it off the handle market or it’s “splittability”.
> 
> Ron



Good question.




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## dancan

No
Oak is an open pore grain.


----------



## Multifaceted

rwoods said:


> Question for the axe men - would a tight vertical grain white oak make a good handle? I know hickory and ash are typical but don’t know if the value of white oak for other purposes keeps it off the handle market or it’s “splittability”.
> 
> Ron



With percussion handles, it's not just about strength; instead it is about the balance of both strength and elasticity. Hickory is championed due to the fact that it has excellent properties of both. Not only is it a hard, dense wood that is strong, but it is also very elastic and has a lot of give without failure. In the preferred conditions, that is... Other woods have these properties, only that Hickory has been wide exported. Spotted Gum, Red Gum, Red Elm, European Beech, and Also North American and European Common Ash (Fraxinus genus) are all great percussion handles alongside Hickory. Personally, for an axe I would not use White Oak for a handle if you actually intend to use it do to the fact that it has little flexibility compared to other woods. It will certainly be strong, but with continued abuse, as most work axes endure, I feel that it would eventually fail. Just my $0.02

Now for a light axe or hatchet, White Oak might not be a bad choice, just make sure you have good grain orientation - but most importantly - good grain runout. If it were me, I'd not use oak. Make sure the steel is properly hung being wedged on the wood without creating a 'shelf' which will become a stress point. Curling of the wood is a good sign, but no so much as to where it starts to lift the grain out.


----------



## rwoods

Thanks. I have a nice slab of something in the workshop. Been too long to remember if it is white oak or hickory or something else. Ron


----------



## rwoods

I moistened the end to show the grain. Dry wood is a light color. Anybody here recognize it?

Ron


----------



## U&A

rwoods said:


> I moistened the end to show the grain. Dry wood is a light color. Anybody here recognize it?
> 
> Ron
> 
> View attachment 798482
> 
> View attachment 798483



What do i win if I guess right?

I say hickory [emoji23]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## Multifaceted

rwoods said:


> I moistened the end to show the grain. Dry wood is a light color. Anybody here recognize it?
> 
> Ron
> 
> View attachment 798482
> 
> View attachment 798483



Those radial lines in the end grain say oak to me.


----------



## DSW

Looks like oak to me.


----------



## rwoods

U&A said:


> What do i win if I guess right?
> 
> I say hickory [emoji23]
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]



$5

Ron


----------



## rwoods

Multifaceted said:


> Those radial lines in the end grain say oak to me.





DSW said:


> Looks like oak to me.



I believe you are right. My memory is returning that this is an end cut left from flooring my trailer with white oak. The lumber was so expensive I have tried to erase all thoughts of it.

Ron


----------



## Multifaceted

rwoods said:


> I believe you are right. My memory is returning that this is an end cut left from flooring my trailer with white oak. The lumber was so expensive I have tried to erase all thoughts of it.
> 
> Ron



Good choice for flooring, that'll probably be the last time you'll ever need to do it. Buy once, cry once.


----------



## rwoods

I sure hope so. Now I have to decide on using some of my planed hickory I was saving for a work bench or expanding my search out of town to find the ideal axe handle. Ron


----------



## MechanicMatt

My old man made a rudder for my sunfish sailboat when I was a kid. Thing cracked within minutes of being on the water. Ended up saving up and getting a mahogany one. Makes me wonder, would mahogany be good for a axe handle?


----------



## MechanicMatt

Forgot to mention, he used white oak thinking it would be “strong as oak”


----------



## DSW

rwoods said:


> I sure hope so. Now I have to decide on using some of my planed hickory I was saving for a work bench or expanding my search out of town to find the ideal axe handle. Ron



Unless you have extra I wouldn't use the planed hickory. Especially if you have time or money into planing it. I know Beavertooth will give you the measurements of the eye so you would know if it'll work or not before you order.


----------



## U&A

MechanicMatt said:


> My old man made a rudder for my sunfish sailboat when I was a kid. Thing cracked within minutes of being on the water. Ended up saving up and getting a mahogany one. Makes me wonder, would mahogany be good for a axe handle?



Your post reminds me of this[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] great movie 








Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## rarefish383

U&A said:


> Thank you sir[emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji847]
> 
> Im hear to learn. It was a cheap on so it doesn’t bother me to much.
> 
> Were can i get some education on what the grain on a good handle looks like
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


You can buy a copy of "An ax to grind", or watch the video, or both.


----------



## U&A

rarefish383 said:


> You can buy a copy of "An ax to grind", or watch the video, or both.




Thank you much sir!


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## rwoods

DSW said:


> Unless you have extra I wouldn't use the planed hickory. Especially if you have time or money into planing it. I know Beavertooth will give you the measurements of the eye so you would know if it'll work or not before you order.



Just spent $16 and change for boiled linseed oil and epoxy today - so for future reference who is Beavertooth.

Thanks, Ron


----------



## U&A

rarefish383 said:


> You can buy a copy of "An ax to grind", or watch the video, or both.




@17:47

[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

Throws it over his shoulder 




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

Chinese axe head is going to be a pickaroon.
In process pictures . Pictures are after I cleaned up the heavy rust
















Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

Here is the basic shape. And cleaned up a bit. Still more to do



















Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## rarefish383

Let the battle begin! There is a guy that out bids me on axes almost every week. He got me on a beautiful Kelly Perfect a couple weeks ago. Today there was a big wooden tool box with a pretty little Norland and a cheap True Temper on top of a bunch of junk. He pulled all the junk out and hid the hatchet on the bottom. Some one else saw him do it, and asked the auctioneer to sell them separate, so He did. I had to go to $35 to get them. Then there was a W BINGHAM Co ax with original handle. He ran me up to $40 on it. W Bingham closed up shop in 1961, so its at least that old.


----------



## svk

Good work. Now keep an eye on him if he’s going to be doing shady stuff with boxes


----------



## rarefish383

svk said:


> Good work. Now keep an eye on him if he’s going to be doing shady stuff with boxes


Shady stuff is probably a good term. I don’t think he’s down right dishonest. When he beat me out on the Kelly, it was in a wooden nail keg with a bunch of other stuff. He came over and offered me the keg and other stuff for free. We got to talking axes and last summer he bought a collection of 1200 axes for $10,000. He said he was still selling them. So, he’s in it to flip it. Now I know he has a limit if I really want something. If he can’t make money he’ll drop out. I might try and work a deal with him where I won’t bid at all on most axes so he can get them for $5, if he doesn’t drive up the occasional one I want.


----------



## DSW

Personally i wouldn't have any connection with him at all.

You'd be giving the shadiest person, preferential treatment.

I'd keep doing my thing.


----------



## U&A

While I’m in the process of modifying this axe head into a Pickaroon is it OK for me to de-burr and clean up the “eye” of the axe head or should I leave it rough edged with an unfinished surface for a better grip on the handle?











Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## rarefish383

DSW said:


> Personally i wouldn't have any connection with him at all.
> 
> You'd be giving the shadiest person, preferential treatment.
> 
> I'd keep doing my thing.


I may have been a bit harsh in my description of him. People pull stuff form the back of the pile and put it back in the front, and vice versa. He didn't take it out of the box it was in and move it to another box. If I see someone pull something out of one box and put it in another, I'll politely ask them to put it back in the right box and point at it. If they don't, I know the auctioneer and I'll tell him. Then he makes a joke of it and says stuff like, this thing must be hot, it keeps jumping from box to box, lets sell it separate. When I pointed the guy out to my cousin he told me about a small hump backed trunk he bought. He collected hump back trunks so he wanted it. It was also full of doll clothes, so, he decided he's go extra on it so he could give the clothes to his Grand Daughter. When the bidding started some guy started running it up way past what it was worth, but he kept bidding and got it. When he got home and pulled the doll clothes out, there was a sterling silver beaded purse on the bottom that wasn't there when he first looked. That's the kind of stuff that bugs me. If I see a box with something I like early, I make sure my item didn't get hot and jump to another box.


----------



## Multifaceted

U&A said:


> While I’m in the process of modifying this axe head into a Pickaroon is it OK for me to de-burr and clean up the “eye” of the axe head or should I leave it rough edged with an unfinished surface for a better grip on the handle?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]



Definitely de-burr, on both top and bottom, itis also good practice for any re-hanging of a regular axe. Any restoration I do, I take a half-round and rat tail file to the eye to smooth it out, makes for easier fitting and removal, plus mitigates the amount of severe curling of the wood.


----------



## U&A

Multifaceted said:


> Definitely de-burr, on both top and bottom, itis also good practice for any re-hanging of a regular axe. Any restoration I do, I take a half-round and rat tail file to the eye to smooth it out, makes for easier fitting and removal, plus mitigates the amount of severe curling of the wood.



Thank you sir.[emoji1303]

I used a carbide burr bit and then sand blasted the rust out of the inside of the eye.

Original plan was to keep her polished but in reality this things going to be sitting out by the woodpile and or bouncing around in the back of my truck. So I painted it just now. 

Planning on looking for a handle this weekend. Thinking I should go with something around 20” or so. Hoping this works good for sticking in the end of rounds to pick them up and move them around. 

May have to modify the point on it after i see how it works. 







Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## Multifaceted

U&A said:


> Thank you sir.[emoji1303]
> 
> I used a carbide burr bit and then sand blasted the rust out of the inside of the eye.
> 
> Original plan was to keep her polished but in reality this things going to be sitting out by the woodpile and or bouncing around in the back of my truck. So I painted it just now.
> 
> Planning on looking for a handle this weekend. Thinking I should go with something around 20” or so. Hoping this works good for sticking in the end of rounds to pick them up and move them around.
> 
> May have to modify the point on it after i see how it works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]



All a good call. Might not even be a bad idea to throw a coat of lacquer on there to protect the paint from chipping off. As far as length, perhaps do some trials. I'm kind of tall so 20" seems like I'd be bending down trying to stick the barb into the end grain of a log or split. My pickaroon is 30" long, but I use it mostly for grabbing logs from atop the log pile and putting them into position to strike with my splitting axe, or pick up splits from the ground and toss them into a cart or pile. All depends on how you plan use it.


----------



## U&A

Multifaceted said:


> All a good call. Might not even be a bad idea to throw a coat of lacquer on there to protect the paint from chipping off. As far as length, perhaps do some trials. I'm kind of tall so 20" seems like I'd be bending down trying to stick the barb into the end grain of a log or split. My pickaroon is 30" long, but I use it mostly for grabbing logs from atop the log pile and putting them into position to strike with my splitting axe, or pick up splits from the ground and toss them into a cart or pile. All depends on how you plan use it.



Im 5’8” 175lbs. 

Definitely not tall[emoji23]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## Multifaceted

U&A said:


> Im 5’8” 175lbs.
> 
> Definitely not tall[emoji23]
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]



Height is just a number, I'm thinking more of your back. Maybe get a couple lengths of stick and swing them so that they skirt the ground by about 2-3" on swing. That should be a good length I would think. I see a lot of the shorter handled pickaroons for guys who run hydro-splitters. If I'm not mistaken, you split by hand, correct?


----------



## rarefish383

U&A said:


> Thank you sir.[emoji1303]
> 
> I used a carbide burr bit and then sand blasted the rust out of the inside of the eye.
> 
> Original plan was to keep her polished but in reality this things going to be sitting out by the woodpile and or bouncing around in the back of my truck. So I painted it just now.
> 
> Planning on looking for a handle this weekend. Thinking I should go with something around 20” or so. Hoping this works good for sticking in the end of rounds to pick them up and move them around.
> 
> May have to modify the point on it after i see how it works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


That looks very nice.


----------



## U&A

rarefish383 said:


> That looks very nice.



Thanks. I hope it works nice[emoji1787]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## svk

U&A said:


> Thank you sir.[emoji1303]
> 
> I used a carbide burr bit and then sand blasted the rust out of the inside of the eye.
> 
> Original plan was to keep her polished but in reality this things going to be sitting out by the woodpile and or bouncing around in the back of my truck. So I painted it just now.
> 
> Planning on looking for a handle this weekend. Thinking I should go with something around 20” or so. Hoping this works good for sticking in the end of rounds to pick them up and move them around.
> 
> May have to modify the point on it after i see how it works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


I’d recommend 28-32” myself. Longer reach but not too long.


----------



## MechanicMatt

rarefish383 said:


> View attachment 799271
> View attachment 799272
> View attachment 799273
> View attachment 799274



that one hatchet has some beautiful lines to it. Looks like a tomahawk


----------



## rwoods

Okay, I stuck with the best handle I could find. I didn't make the rarefish wedge. I decided to fill the cavity with 4400# epoxy instead. No epoxy on the wedge; oriented the metal wedge pretty much opposite of the grain which unintentionally resulted in little of it in the handle - I am guessing I should have gone 90* to the grain. Cut the handle down to just over 30", initialed it, burned some grooves for a grip on the end and oiled with one coat of boiled linseed oil. Maybe a Saturday or two before I will get to pound some wedges with it.








Ron


----------



## U&A

Multifaceted said:


> Height is just a number, I'm thinking more of your back. Maybe get a couple lengths of stick and swing them so that they skirt the ground by about 2-3" on swing. That should be a good length I would think. I see a lot of the shorter handled pickaroons for guys who run hydro-splitters. If I'm not mistaken, you split by hand, correct?



Yes sir. The 36” fiskars 

I will take the advice everyone and go longer. My local stores are not heavily stocked so ill most likely end up buying a 36”(seems common around here) and cut it down a bit. 


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

rwoods said:


> Okay, I stuck with the best handle I could find. I didn't make the rarefish wedge. I decided to fill the cavity with 4400# epoxy instead. No epoxy on the wedge; oriented the metal wedge pretty much opposite of the grain which unintentionally resulted in little of it in the handle - I am guessing I should have gone 90* to the grain. Cut the handle down to just over 30", initialed it, burned some grooves for a grip on the end and oiled with one coat of boiled linseed oil. Maybe a Saturday or two before I will get to pound some wedges with it.
> 
> View attachment 799508
> View attachment 799509
> 
> 
> View attachment 799510
> 
> 
> Ron



I like the axe head. A 3lb’er...? 

Not so sure about the burned grooves but to each his own right...[emoji1303][emoji41]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## rarefish383

MechanicMatt said:


> that one hatchet has some beautiful lines to it. Looks like a tomahawk


I passed up one last month at the same auction, it was in the last building, and they don't start that building till about 7PM. It was 4 and I didn't feel like waiting. It was the next size bigger, but still a small hatchet. They are still available at LL Bean for about $150. I've been talking about finding a small hatchet to use for field dressing my deer, this will fit the bill. Has good steel that will hold an edge. The profile of the edge will be good for skinning, and I can crack the pelvis in the field to get the poop chute out. I just did a search for LL bean and they have a Gransfor, so maybe it's not still available new. Back to the search function.


----------



## rarefish383

rwoods said:


> Okay, I stuck with the best handle I could find. I didn't make the rarefish wedge. I decided to fill the cavity with 4400# epoxy instead. No epoxy on the wedge; oriented the metal wedge pretty much opposite of the grain which unintentionally resulted in little of it in the handle - I am guessing I should have gone 90* to the grain. Cut the handle down to just over 30", initialed it, burned some grooves for a grip on the end and oiled with one coat of boiled linseed oil. Maybe a Saturday or two before I will get to pound some wedges with it.
> 
> View attachment 799508
> View attachment 799509
> 
> 
> View attachment 799510
> 
> 
> Ron


I didn't notice the epoxy till you mentioned it. Looks good.


----------



## Multifaceted

rwoods said:


> Okay, I stuck with the best handle I could find. I didn't make the rarefish wedge. I decided to fill the cavity with 4400# epoxy instead. No epoxy on the wedge; oriented the metal wedge pretty much opposite of the grain which unintentionally resulted in little of it in the handle - I am guessing I should have gone 90* to the grain. Cut the handle down to just over 30", initialed it, burned some grooves for a grip on the end and oiled with one coat of boiled linseed oil. Maybe a Saturday or two before I will get to pound some wedges with it.
> 
> View attachment 799508
> View attachment 799509
> 
> 
> View attachment 799510
> 
> 
> Ron



I've been hunting for a good heavy rafting pattern with hardened poll for a long time now. Can find on eBay for an exorbitant price, but nah...


----------



## rwoods

U&A said:


> I like the axe head. A 3lb’er...?
> 
> Not so sure about the burned grooves but to each his own right...[emoji1303][emoji41]
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]



Thanks, 5# Plumb. Pretty ugly grooving. In hindsight, I should have ordered a rafting handle from Madsen's which has a "knob" on the end. Swinging a 5# head on a tapered handle, I need something to increase the grip. Last handle, I cut the grip. It wasn't pretty either but it didn't standout as much. If this didn't see wet weather, I would likely have wrapped it with a leather strip.

Ron


----------



## rwoods

Multifaceted said:


> I've been hunting for a good heavy rafting pattern with hardened poll for a long time now. Can find on eBay for an exorbitant price, but nah...



eBay prices are high. It took me months of daily searching to find a nice specimen of any brand affordable and they have gone up since then. I actually found two 5# Plumbs. Gave one to a logger who used to post on AS. I would love to find a nice 4# as I think it would make a better compromise of an axe and a wedge pounder. The 5# ones are great falling wedge pounders but a little much for me as an axe.

Ron


----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> I've been hunting for a good heavy rafting pattern with hardened poll for a long time now. Can find on eBay for an exorbitant price, but nah...


I thought this post was Ron's and was getting ready to quote it, and say Multifacted has been looking for one for a long time. OOPs. Hope you find one some day.


----------



## U&A

rwoods said:


> Thanks, 5# Plumb. Pretty ugly grooving. In hindsight, I should have ordered a rafting handle from Madsen's which has a "knob" on the end. Swinging a 5# head on a tapered handle, I need something to increase the grip. Last handle, I cut the grip. It wasn't pretty either but it didn't standout as much. If this didn't see wet weather, I would likely have wrapped it with a leather strip.
> 
> Ron



If you’re not so concerned with looks and you’re looking for a bit more grip at the end of the handle try some hockey tape. 

Twist a piece of the tape up into a rope and wind around with about a 1 inch gap between the windings. And then Cover it with hockey tape. Provides EXCELLENT grip but it is not a permanent change to the handle.

I did it on the D handle I added to my 3120 and it made an amazing difference. 




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

Well.... Time to get a handle on things[emoji1787][emoji1787]

Bad joke.

Found a few with grain going the proper direction or pretty darn close to it








Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## Multifaceted

U&A said:


> Well.... Time to get a handle on things[emoji1787][emoji1787]
> 
> Bad joke.
> 
> Found a few with grain going the proper direction or pretty darn close to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]



Actually, you need to get the hang of it!

When you get it right, a perfect fit for hanging an axe is where the phrase comes from. Takes some practice, but if you don't rush it your first time you'll get a good fit. Definitely watch an Ax to Grind video, great starting point if you haven't already watched it.


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> I thought this post was Ron's and was getting ready to quote it, and say Multifacted has been looking for one for a long time. OOPs. Hope you find one some day.



Yep, the Rafting score is my White Whale Axe ... Such cool history behind the pattern, and very capable for a multitude of uses.


----------



## U&A

Multifaceted said:


> Actually, you need to get the hang of it!
> 
> When you get it right, a perfect fit for hanging an axe is where the phrase comes from. Takes some practice, but if you don't rush it your first time you'll get a good fit. Definitely watch an Ax to Grind video, great starting point if you haven't already watched it.



I did watch it.[emoji1303][emoji1303]. 


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

So I assume since this is an axe thread you guys are also fans of knives. This I am assuming is a nice knife?

back when Marbles actually made real knives in Michigan. Anyone know anything about something like this?

It was a wedding gift. 9 years ago.......dang.....its been 9 years now. [emoji15]









Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## dancan

U&A said:


> So I assume since this is an axe thread you guys are also fans of knives. This I am assuming is a nice knife?
> 
> back when Marbles actually made real knives in Michigan. Anyone know anything about something like this?
> 
> It was a wedding gift. 9 years ago.......dang.....its been 9 years now. [emoji15]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]



Oh my ,,,,


----------



## U&A

dancan said:


> Oh my ,,,,



Is that a GOOD “Oh my”.... ? Or you just messing with me[emoji1787]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## dancan

Well , lets just say, you know, just send it up here so I can have a closer look .
PO Box ....
And I'll trade you a nice Bark River


----------



## U&A

dancan said:


> Well , lets just say, you know, just send it up here so I can have a closer look .
> PO Box ....
> And I'll trade you a nice Bark River



I use it ALL the time. Just very carefully. Only on things that i KNOW it can not get hurt.

Maybe i should stop. 



Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## rwoods

U&A said:


> If you’re not so concerned with looks and you’re looking for a bit more grip at the end of the handle try some hockey tape.
> 
> Twist a piece of the tape up into a rope and wind around with about a 1 inch gap between the windings. And then Cover it with hockey tape. Provides EXCELLENT grip but it is not a permanent change to the handle.
> 
> I did it on the D handle I added to my 3120 and it made an amazing difference.
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]



There might be a pro team in Tennessee, but none of the rest of us have a hockey stick or tape. Good hockey sticks are made of ash, hickory or what?

Ron


----------



## rwoods

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...0.A0.H0.Xraft+axe.TRS0&_nkw=raft+axe&_sacat=0

Today’s offerings. Ron


----------



## dancan

U&A said:


> I use it ALL the time. Just very carefully. Only on things that i KNOW it can not get hurt.
> 
> Maybe i should stop.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]



What's it worth to you if you don't use it and it sits in a drawer ?
Use it and enjoy it , it's a great design , just don't abuse or loose it Lol


----------



## dancan

rwoods said:


> https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...0.A0.H0.Xraft+axe.TRS0&_nkw=raft+axe&_sacat=0
> 
> Today’s offerings. Ron












4.5 lb Norlund , I gave a mint one with original handle to Pioneerguy600 , hafted the second one I found on a 36" straight and this is my 3rd .


----------



## dancan

I looked to see if I had pics of the first one but it doesn't look like it .
Here's #2


----------



## dancan

Here's one that I haven't been to id yet


----------



## dancan




----------



## cat10ken

MADE IN China


----------



## Multifaceted

Nice rafting patterns...


----------



## U&A

dancan said:


> View attachment 799802
> View attachment 799801
> Here's one that I haven't been to id yet
> 
> View attachment 799801



Made in china eh... that would make a good pickaroon[emoji16]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## MechanicMatt

Marbles knives.... I like Puma but my pal at work collects Marbles. Whenever I see one in a pawn shop I call him then text some pictures. Usually end up buying it for him if the price is right. If I remember I’ll show him tomorrow.
EDIT 
Texted him the pics of the knife. Here’s the response 

It's nice. The markings look different than some of mine, but Gladstone is the goods.


----------



## U&A

MechanicMatt said:


> Marbles knives.... I like Puma but my pal at work collects Marbles. Whenever I see one in a pawn shop I call him then text some pictures. Usually end up buying it for him if the price is right. If I remember I’ll show him tomorrow.
> EDIT
> Texted him the pics of the knife. Here’s the response
> 
> It's nice. The markings look different than some of mine, but Gladstone is the goods.



Thank you sir [emoji1303]. I much appreciate it[emoji847]

I plan to polish them light scuff marks out. Im slowly turning it into a convex grind. I can clean it up with the strop. Convex is my absolute favorite knife edge. I do it to axes too. 


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## MechanicMatt

This guy has a jig he clamps knives in the puts a three angle edge on knives. He did my hunting Puma a few years ago. Done probably 6 deer with it since and it’s still RAZOR sharp. Picture of the puma from the 60’s, Rifle from the 50’s and a poor little buck that made the mistake of being the only deer to walk in front of me in two days.... of hard hunting up at camp. Love my PUMA


----------



## rarefish383

dancan said:


> What's it worth to you if you don't use it and it sits in a drawer ?
> Use it and enjoy it , it's a great design , just don't abuse or loose it Lol


I joined "allaboutpocketknives" to find out about a pre war "Scout" knife I had. They have a monthly members give a way. So, thinking I had a drawer full of knives, some very nice, I decided to donate one. My wife paid over $100 for it 30+ years ago. I never used it, so away it went. The guy that won it in the drawing lived in Moscow, and I don't mean Moscow PA. I asked if it was legal to ship it to Russia. He said in the description just put Fishing Scissors. When he got it he said he was glad they didn't open it, he had no idea from the pic that it was over a foot long. I looked up the maker to see if I could find out what it was worth before I donated it. They make tactical knives now. Then I donated my Hop Along Cassidy folding knife as a door prize at our Savage collectors rendezvous. 

Maybe we could do a monthly give away? Donor ships. On AAPK you pick a 3 digit number and the closest with out going over wins. They use a local lottery the last day of the month to pick the winner. We might have to use the 4 digit lottery. The have a pretty big membership and never come close to using all 999 numbers.


----------



## dancan

cat10ken said:


> MADE IN China



Thot of that but the Chinese ones that I've seen never have logos and usually not stamped .


----------



## U&A

rarefish383 said:


> I joined "allaboutpocketknives" to find out about a pre war "Scout" knife I had. They have a monthly members give a way. So, thinking I had a drawer full of knives, some very nice, I decided to donate one. My wife paid over $100 for it 30+ years ago. I never used it, so away it went. The guy that won it in the drawing lived in Moscow, and I don't mean Moscow PA. I asked if it was legal to ship it to Russia. He said in the description just put Fishing Scissors. When he got it he said he was glad they didn't open it, he had no idea from the pic that it was over a foot long. I looked up the maker to see if I could find out what it was worth before I donated it. They make tactical knives now. Then I donated my Hop Along Cassidy folding knife as a door prize at our Savage collectors rendezvous.
> 
> Maybe we could do a monthly give away? Donor ships. On AAPK you pick a 3 digit number and the closest with out going over wins. They use a local lottery the last day of the month to pick the winner. We might have to use the 4 digit lottery. The have a pretty big membership and never come close to using all 999 numbers.



Those look COOL!

But im not sure what id use them for...... craft time with the 4 year old maybe.[emoji23]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

First time. Now this is actually a hatchet head that I hung on a 28” boys axe handle. So the fit was tight. Had to do a good amount of whittling of the wood to get the head down this far. Got it down to what I thought was a reasonable place and got really good contact on the handle. 

Cut the groove down a bit further so it is about 2/3 of the way down the hatchet head as stated in that video[emoji16]. 


Tell me what you think. I’m here to learn and I have thick skin[emoji16][emoji1303][emoji41]













Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## svk

Looks awesome to me


----------



## U&A

This is a real heavy piece of cherry[emoji23][emoji23]










Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## cat10ken

I picked up a boy's axe yesterday. It has a 26" handle, single bit. On the head it says "Hartwell Bros., Grey Gorge, Memphis. Tenn. Anyone heard of this brand?


----------



## dancan

First yardsale of the year 
It was a church basement fundraiser .
Didn't find any axes but I did buy this for 2$












16" pick , 26" handle with a 2 piece system .


----------



## Plowmaster

U&A said:


> This is a real heavy piece of cherry[emoji23][emoji23]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


Hmmm .... michigan with snow... u must be further north than St.Clair county.


----------



## rarefish383

U&A said:


> Those look COOL!
> 
> But im not sure what id use them for...... craft time with the 4 year old maybe.[emoji23]
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


It’s two pics of the same knife. The only time I used it was when we went crabbing off the docks under the Chesapeake Bay Bridge. Used it to cut chicken necks in half. It has crimping notches for splicing steel leaders and a bone saw. Cool knife, just never used it.


----------



## rarefish383

cat10ken said:


> MADE IN China


Which one was made in China?


----------



## dancan

dancan said:


> View attachment 799817



He thot this one Joe 
Polly made in Sweden .


----------



## U&A

Plowmaster said:


> Hmmm .... michigan with snow... u must be further north than St.Clair county.



Nope.

North of Jackson 


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## Plowmaster

U&A said:


> Nope.
> 
> North of Jackson
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


Nothing but mud over here... lol


----------



## U&A

Plowmaster said:


> Nothing but mud over here... lol



Somehow there is copious amounts of mud underneath the snow here [emoji23]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

Reaching out to my buds to see if you can help identify this a little more specifically than just saying it’s a Zenith Marshall Wells.

Based on this image showing the different types they had I am guessing my ex would be the one in the top right corner or the bottom left. But I’m not 100% sure


Can anyone give me further insight? 

The shape of the outside contour of this looks like the “Sager” but the edges look different 

I was told this was probably made by Kelly...
















Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## dancan

https://www.davistownmuseum.org/bioMarshallwells.html


----------



## rarefish383

https://www.bnctools.com/pages/axe-patterns


----------



## DSW

U&A said:


> Tell me what you think. I’m here to learn and I have thick skin[emoji16][emoji1303][emoji41]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]



Looks fine to me but the dog doesn't seem too impressed.


----------



## rarefish383

U&A said:


> Reaching out to my buds to see if you can help identify this a little more specifically than just saying it’s a Zenith Marshall Wells.
> 
> Based on this image showing the different types they had I am guessing my ex would be the one in the top right corner or the bottom left. But I’m not 100% sure
> 
> 
> Can anyone give me further insight?
> 
> The shape of the outside contour of this looks like the “Sager” but the edges look different
> 
> I was told this was probably made by Kelly...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


Did you try “yesteryeartools”, they have a pretty good write up on Kelly over the years. I didn’t notice any logo that looked like yours?


----------



## U&A

Got the Marshall wells and True Temper cleaned up with red scotch bright today. 

Marshall Wells is in decent shape besides the minor pitting. The TT has met a grinder once or twice. Somebody did a number in it but after cleaning it up it really is not too bad. Will make a great tool but it’s not going to win any beauty contest. 










Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## Multifaceted

You gonna be making these axes real and proper choppers, or just relegating them to splitting logs?


----------



## U&A

Multifaceted said:


> You gonna be making these axes real and proper choppers, or just relegating them to splitting logs?



Not splitters. I have a Fiskars for that and its hard to beat. 

Choppers they will be! Definitely want to keep at least one of them possibly will sell the other. .... if someone actually wants it. 

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## Multifaceted

U&A said:


> Not splitters. I have a Fiskars for that and its hard to beat.
> 
> Choppers they will be! Definitely want to keep at least one of them possibly will sell the other. .... if someone actually wants it.
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]



Good to hear! f you ever need some guidance or pointers on getting a right and proper proper grind geometry that will sever fibers and clear chips, feel free to message me. I've been known to do some chopping here and there.


----------



## lead farmer

Multifaceted said:


> Good to hear! f you ever need some guidance or pointers on getting a right and proper proper grind geometry that will sever fibers and clear chips, feel free to message me. I've been known to do some chopping here and there.


Dont forget the makin beer part....[emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## MechanicMatt

Well boys, in the bed of my truck is my Grandpa’s Ax, I had intentions of taking a picture tonight but my 15yo needed help with her homework. Tomorrow I’ll be sure to get a picture


----------



## U&A

MechanicMatt said:


> Well boys, in the bed of my truck is my Grandpa’s Ax, I had intentions of taking a picture tonight but my 15yo needed help with her homework. Tomorrow I’ll be sure to get a picture



Waiting patiently for a pic[emoji4]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

Multifaceted said:


> Good to hear! f you ever need some guidance or pointers on getting a right and proper proper grind geometry that will sever fibers and clear chips, feel free to message me. I've been known to do some chopping here and there.



Pm inbound 


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## Multifaceted

U&A said:


> Pm inbound
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]



Responded not long ago


----------



## svk

U&A said:


> Got the Marshall wells and True Temper cleaned up with red scotch bright today.
> 
> Marshall Wells is in decent shape besides the minor pitting. The TT has met a grinder once or twice. Somebody did a number in it but after cleaning it up it really is not too bad. Will make a great tool but it’s not going to win any beauty contest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


Those are nice.

Does anyone know: Is there any difference in performance in the bowtie shape versus the rounded edge shape?


----------



## MechanicMatt

So it says Stanley on it, makes sense as he owned a hardware store. I think 90% of his tools were Stanley. Thinking that if I look hard enough I’ll find out the hatchet and boys axe are Stanley as well.


----------



## U&A

svk said:


> Those are nice.
> 
> Does anyone know: Is there any difference in performance in the bowtie shape versus the rounded edge shape?



I was wondering the same thing, but thinking the more rounded edges would be much more user-friendly in light of errors with the angle you hit things. But the more “bow tie” shape probably is more effective at chopping when it hits squarely 


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Those are nice.
> 
> Does anyone know: Is there any difference in performance in the bowtie shape versus the rounded edge shape?



Rounded edge is likely exaggerated due to years of improper grinding. The toe of the bit is the part often subject to the most wear and damage this often gets more of the file. Without trueing up the bit before major damage repair, you get the rounded bit. Also, as is often the case with American axes that have cheeks, the heel and toe are much thinner than the center of the bit with the cheeks flare out, there's also much more steel there which translates into more material that needs to be removed in order to do a proper cutting grind. *Many* just follow the existing contour and file the edge to a point, then call it day, and that is not the best way. It's not even a good way, middling perhaps.

Edit: changed 'Most' to 'Many'


----------



## U&A

Multifaceted said:


> Rounded edge is likely exaggerated due to years of improper grinding. The toe of the bit is the part often subject to the most wear and damage this often gets more of the file. Without trueing up the bit before major damage repair, you get the rounded bit. Also, as is often the case with American axes that have cheeks, the heel and toe are much thinner than the center of the bit with the cheeks flare out, there's also much more steel there which translates into more material that needs to be removed in order to do a proper cutting grind. Most people just follow the existing contour and file the edge to a point, then call it day, and that is not the best way. It's not even a good way, middling perhaps.



Thanks for the info![emoji1303][emoji41]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## Multifaceted

I guess I jumped the gun a bit there. To be more clear, rounded bit profiles certainly did and do exist, but often do get exaggerated by not grinding down the cheeks. I prefer more of a slight curve, I find them less sticky than heavily rounded ones (I don't recall seeing any like that recently in this thread) - however, so long as the bit has an even degree of angle, i.e., the center of curve isn't wide or greater in angle than the hell or toe, then it shouldn't really impact performance, though, depending on what or how you're chopping, your milage may vary...


----------



## MechanicMatt

Grains not the best, but I won’t be using it much. Really more of a wall hanger because of the sentimental value. Any ideas on cleaning it up?


----------



## MechanicMatt

http://www.yesteryearstools.com/Yesteryears Tools/Stanley Axes.html

Some interesting reading


----------



## U&A

So i got the head sitting down on the shoulder of the handle were i want it. Squared up by eye. 

Iv got a bit of room in the corners of the eye. The wedge will obviously make the handle fill all the gaps besides this one. I can see if the wedge is wide enough it could fill this spot. But if not..... do i need to use and epoxy to fill this corner up? One corner is open the other is closed up. If i split the difference to make them even the head is clearly not perpendicular to the handle. It has to be like pictured

Somehow it does not look very square in the picture but in person it really is.
















Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

MechanicMatt said:


> Grains not the best, but I won’t be using it much. Really more of a wall hanger because of the sentimental value. Any ideas on cleaning it up?



I would consider doing minimal clean up if it is a wall hanger. Keep the history on it. 

Rust prevention and boiled linseed oil. 

Done


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## svk

Well if you put a little epoxy in there it will definitely seal it up but if you did need to remove it in the future, it would be that much more difficult. Maybe whittle a little piece of wedge to put in there?


----------



## U&A

svk said:


> Well if you put a little epoxy in there it will definitely seal it up but if you did need to remove it in the future, it would be that much more difficult. Maybe whittle a little piece of wedge to put in there?



I was thinking this too just now!

Thank you!

Ill find a nice hard pc of black locusts to stick in there[emoji1303]



Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

Wedge filled it in perfectly. Im happy with the way this came out. 

Now to sharpen[emoji847]













Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

2 questions for you experienced guys. 

1) the round metal wedges.... just looking at them it seems these would create much more wedge effect than the standard wedges. 

Is there a time and a place for these or can they be used almost exclusively? What are you thoughts on them over the standard metal wedges.

https://www.amazon.com/Beaver-Tooth-Safety-Wedges-Blacksmith/dp/B01IPY6XAI


2) iv been watching “Buckin’ Billy Ray Smith” here and there. Seems like a good person. I really enjoy his videos and he is always trying to help you learn. Great attitude as well. 

Anyway. Instead of linseed oil he uses what he calls “watca” i am assuming he is saying “Watco” that is a brand name for danish oil. From research it seem it would be a good candidate for axe handles. Any experience and or thoughts on this VS linseed oil..? From what I can find it possibly just has a little bit more penetrating oil with it to pull the oils into the wood faster. But it does say that the oils “harden” inside the wood. Not on the outside. 


https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/watco/danish-oil

Thank you for you insight guys. Much appreciated.


----------



## svk

I think the round metal wedge pounded in after the regular wedging creates an almost infallible bond. 

I love the “wodca” lol. I think it hardens a bit better than linseed oil with time. Or at least that’s what Billy says. I haven’t personally used it.


----------



## U&A

svk said:


> I think the round metal wedge pounded in after the regular wedging creates an almost infallible bond.
> 
> I love the “wodca” lol. I think it hardens a bit better than linseed oil with time. Or at least that’s what Billy says. I haven’t personally used it.



So you use the round wedges often?

I bet that creates a LOT LOT LOT of force. 


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## svk

U&A said:


> So you use the round wedges often?
> 
> I bet that creates a LOT LOT LOT of force.
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


I never have but if I had them I absolutely would


----------



## U&A

Based on the pictures id say it us a “ Connecticut” or “ Delaware/wide bit Dayton” style.

No idea the maker as somebody ground the living heck out of the sides of it. Used to be red paint on it. Definitely has been used in its life. 

Any ideas? China?

Its a 4lbs’er



















Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## svk

True Temper used a similar red. But you’ll never know based on the fact that someone ground the heck out of that. Rehang it and put her in the rotation!


----------



## rarefish383

Yep, I was going to say True Temper. On the wedges, I like to try and keep them period correct. All of my old axes have wood wedges, and they lasted a life time. I do like the steel stepped wedges. The round ones seemed to come along later. I don't KNOW this. But it seemed the round ones may have come along when all handles were machine fitted, and it got more spread on them for a tighter fit? Just a WAG. I'm also particular to a tight fit of the handle to the top of the head. I first started noticing the proud fit on European axes. Lots of guys use the proud fit now a days. But all of the old pictures of American axes have a flush fit. I think in "An ax to Grind", he fits his heads flush. Just how I prefer them.


----------



## CR888

It seems whether hammering a nail into wood, cutting up some kindling, using a log splitter on splitting with an ax, whenever you get metal and drive it into wood it wants to do one thing and that is split the fibers apart. So for me I try to avoid metal wedges when hanging or hafting an ax. Metal is much harder than wood, it don't 'give' or conform. That's just me, I know many like driving metal wedges into ax hafts.


----------



## U&A

svk said:


> True Temper used a similar red. But you’ll never know based on the fact that someone ground the heck out of that. Rehang it and put her in the rotation!



Cool. Thanks[emoji1303]

Might as well say china then[emoji1787]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

Just hanging out with Mr. Marshall Wells today [emoji16]

This one was more difficult. someone decided that the sides of this double bit was a sledge hammer. 










Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## DSW

I don't use any metal wedges.

The fit is what's important. 

To me a true Connecticut pattern will be nearly as wide as it is long. Similar to a Jersey. Both beautiful patterns.


----------



## Multifaceted

Dayton pattern, definitely not a Connie.

I prefer the circular wedges if using one, even perfectly hung axe with wooden wedges can come loose, it's happened to me.

I like boiled linseed oil but cut with a little turpentine. BLO can spontaneously combust while drying on a rag, just keep that in mind.


----------



## U&A

Multifaceted said:


> Dayton pattern, definitely not a Connie.
> 
> I prefer the circular wedges if using one, even perfectly hung axe with wooden wedges can come loose, it's happened to me.
> 
> I like boiled linseed oil because cut with a little turpentine. BLO can spontaneously combust while drying on a rag, just keep that in mind.



Thanks[emoji1303]

And iv been applying the BLO simply by putting on a nitrile glove and spreading it by hand. Hate wasting it on a rag.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## Multifaceted

U&A said:


> Thanks[emoji1303]
> 
> And iv been applying the BLO simply by putting on a nitrile glove and spreading it by hand. Hate wasting it on a rag.
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]



Don't let it dry thickly applied, it will turn out gummy and sticky. Nothing a little lacquer thinner or turpentine can't fix, though.


I just use paper towels. First I apply it with gloved hands then let sit for ~20 minutes. Wipe off excess and let dry for 24 hours. Repeat this three times, but in the third time let dry 48 hours. Makes for a really deep color that is protective and water resistant. You can also use some extra fine steel wool in between coats to smooth out the purchase if desired.


----------



## U&A

Multifaceted said:


> Don't let it dry thickly applied, it will turn out gummy and sticky. Nothing a little lacquer thinner or turpentine can't fix, though.
> 
> 
> I just use paper towels. First I apply it with gloved hands then let sit for ~20 minutes. Wipe off excess and let dry for 24 hours. Repeat this three times, but in the third time let dry 48 hours. Makes for a really deep color that is protective and water resistant. You can also use some extra fine steel wool in between coats to smooth out the purchase if desired.



I apply very thin. Use my gloved hand as a squeegee [emoji1303]

I learned that lesson once already 

Iv been using 3M red and brown scotch pad for finishing it out smoothly. 

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite...ocphy=9017369&hvtargid=pla-388447330719&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite...ocphy=9017369&hvtargid=pla-388447330719&psc=1


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## Multifaceted

Another product I like to use often for regular maintenance is Ballistol. It's great for metal, leather, and even wood. It's not a drying oil, but if applied thinly it isn't messy. I typically wipe some onto the metal and cover well, then re-sheath and wipe off excess onto the leather and wood. Boom, done. I store my axes out in my shop, so during the summer humidity I can get some surface rust, but regular application greatly mitigates rust from forming. Best rust prevention is regular use 

https://www.amazon.com/Ballistol-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-Cleaner-Protectant/dp/B07TBNRFPN


----------



## rarefish383

The guys on the Savage forum just had a discussion on Ballistol. Good stuff.


----------



## DSW

3 weeks ago I posted about this little number and I am absolutely smitten.

Splitting, kindling, chopping, limbing.

It's an absolute toy but somehow is still getting work done.


----------



## SS396driver

Not old but free.


----------



## svk

Older brush axe. Interesting as it only has one contact point, a lot of them have a longer shank that connects further down the handle.


----------



## U&A

DSW said:


> 3 weeks ago I posted about this little number and I am absolutely smitten.
> 
> Splitting, kindling, chopping, limbing.
> 
> It's an absolute toy but somehow is still getting work done.
> 
> 
> View attachment 803363
> 
> 
> View attachment 803365
> 
> 
> View attachment 803368
> 
> 
> View attachment 803369



Hand carved handle ?

Looks REALLY nice


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## DSW

Thank ya. Yes. Looking forward to warmer weather and taking it camping.


----------



## DSW

Here's a piece I finished the other day. Kind of been pecking away at it. I had a handle blank already roughed out, I say rough but it will probably stay that way.

The only reason I was looking for a head was to get something heavier. I'm not trying to out collect anyone I'm looking for users in different weights I like. Well, this head was not as listed, not by a few ounces or a typo, supposed to be 5 lbs, but really 3 and a half. Which is a great weight but not what I'm looking for. It's not like I got ladies underwear, it's still an axe so rather than return it I poked away at it. Hung it before I even touched the head, which is not my standard way. Then I started working on the edge. Went out and used it, worked pretty well considering how rough it still was. Then the other day I did more work on the edge and have it where it should be.

I've only used it a bit seems alright.


----------



## Sledneck_77

Hey everyone just got a few ax bits I need to hang. Any good suggestions on where I can get some handles. Love to here where you guys go. Thanks


----------



## stillusingstihl

dancan said:


> Yup , new resto thread .
> 
> Here's a 3 1/5 lb 5$ yard sale find .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now has a new 30" piece of hickory .


Love that new handle. I can only purchase rubbish where I live in the Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia. The hickory axe handles are plantation stuff (no old growth). Even old growth spotted gum(local hardwood) is getting hard to obtain.


----------



## stillusingstihl

dancan said:


> It's hard to say which ones to go for , there's plenty of good axes out there that were unbranded , Gransfors Bruk for example made tons of unstamped heads for export .
> Best I can say is to stay away from anything that had a fiberglass handle and one that has been beat to death , the prices on the Bay seem a little high so I do the local yard/estate sales , local buy and sell ads and word of mouth to local pickers .
> I try to keep this hobby as cheap as I can , 5$ to 20$ for a head is reasonable to me and handles range from 5$ to 20$ for handles but the nice Scandinavian handles range from 20$ to 40$ .


----------



## stillusingstihl

I picked up a beautiful old 1895 English Gilpin axe a few years back for nothing but had to replace the handle, and 30+years ago a nice(but lightly rusted) Plumb axe head for A$2.00 at a local garage sale. I'm not in the business of collecting axes but I do use both of these occasionally for firewood splitting. If I saw a nice axe going cheaply, say $5-10 I'd buy it for a friend. Handles are the "Achilles Heel" of all axes, especially when you can't find quality ones.






Quote Reply 

Report Edit Delete


----------



## svk

Sledneck_77 said:


> Hey everyone just got a few ax bits I need to hang. Any good suggestions on where I can get some handles. Love to here where you guys go. Thanks


A lot of guys on here including me have purchased from House Handle but their overall quality has dropped dramatically it seems. Your best bet is to find a local store that stocks a good supply then go there and pick through. Guys will vary on grain orientation but I like tight grained wood aligned so the rays point towards and away from the direction you are chopping.


----------



## LondonNeil

Yes it seems arguements rage over orientation, but everyone agrees on tight grain and no run out along the handle, run out kills many handles in use.


----------



## svk

U&A said:


> Thanks[emoji1303]
> 
> And iv been applying the BLO simply by putting on a nitrile glove and spreading it by hand. Hate wasting it on a rag.
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


When I was doing several axe handles at once, I used half of a washcloth. Once soaked in BLO, it could wipe down several handles without needing more. I kept it in a zipock between coats.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> When I was doing several axe handles at once, I used half of a washcloth. Once soaked in BLO, it could wipe down several handles without needing more. I kept it in a zipock between coats.



This is good advice. Rags soaked in BLO can spontaneously combust, it's not a myth. The drying process as the oil polymerizes creates heat. In the right conditions, a rag that has dry spots or is near some paper, it can catch fire on its own from the heat built up by the chemical reaction while drying on the rag. Keeping a designated rag in a ziplock bag mitigates the drying and prevents most of the polymerization, plus it keeps it wet for future applications.


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> Yes it seems arguements rage over orientation, but everyone agrees on tight grain and no run out along the handle, run out kills many handles in use.


And wide grain, perpendicular to the chopping direction is really a time bomb waiting to go off!


----------



## rarefish383

Just thinking of handles, it brings me to my pet peeve with ebay sellers. I've noticed a few big ax sellers, that cut the handles off every ax they have. I can't believe that none of the original handles survived, especially when some of the heads are mint. I just went downstairs and took a quick look at the wall mount with my favorite axes hanging from it. Number 1 is, my Dad's Collins Legitimus double, that still has the original finish on the handle, and the words "Genuine Collins Hickory". My wife's grandfathers American Beauty. It has white surgical tape wrapped around it a few inches up from the head. Obviously, not to protect the head, but for grip. We used to use the same tape on our Lacrosse sticks. I have a Dunlap boys ax with a white painted handle. It's a little chipped at the front of the eye, still very serviceable. Somewhere I picked up a nice 4 pound Jersey with the original handle, painted a dark red. It was my favorite, of the moment, splitting ax. Worked great on straight grained Oak. That's all I would use it on, trying not to stress it. A few months ago I had a big block of Ash that I thought would pop right in half. The handle sheared off right at the head. Not a mark or ding on it, I guess just dry rotted. Anyway, I'd never cut a serviceable handle off. But, I guess there are enough collectors out there who just like to look at them on a shelf. I understand that, I just think they look better with a chunk of wood on them.


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## svk

These hammers are looking grungy. As soon as I find my jug of BLO I’ll refinish them along with whatever other tools that need a coat. 

The one on the left came with something I bought (maybe my old boat?) and the one on the right is an heirloom from my grandpa.


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## rarefish383

svk said:


> These hammers are looking grungy. As soon as I find my jug of BLO I’ll refinish them along with whatever other tools that need a coat.
> 
> The one on the left came with something I bought (maybe my old boat?) and the one on the right is an heirloom from my grandpa.
> View attachment 823408


One of these days I’ll finish my coat/hat rack for the cabin. It will be a matching piece of Fir as my ax board, with small ball peen hammer heads for the hooks. I used to see boxes of them at farm auctions and they couldn’t give them away. Now that I’m looking for them, they turned into the proverbial hens teeth.


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## svk

rarefish383 said:


> One of these days I’ll finish my coat/hat rack for the cabin. It will be a matching piece of Fir as my ax board, with small ball peen hammer heads for the hooks. I used to see boxes of them at farm auctions and they couldn’t give them away. Now that I’m looking for them, they turned into the proverbial hens teeth.


If I see any heads I’ll grab them for you.

I think I have three or four ball peen hammers in the lineup. The nice thing is they never seem to go missing (go figure) so if I need a hammer they are always in the tool shed. The claw hammers always get left somewhere in the garage, usually forgotten after a project. Sometimes I have 8 and sometimes I have none.


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## rarefish383

The ones I was looking for are little ones, I think they are 2-3 ounces. I could always mix sizes. I think I'll pick out the board tomorrow and put a couple coats of BLO on it.


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## Chris Cringle

My apologies if this has been covered already and I simply wasn’t finding it by browsing the site and using the search engine. 

I have several splitting mauls of different weights and profiles. I try to keep the striking edges neat so that they bite sufficiently. Nothing close to sharp. I sharpen them with a bastard file from time to time, again, just to sharpen up flat spots where I struck something hard or the flared metal around nicks. I usually don’t file all the way down to the deepest part of nick because I don’t want to be removing that much metal that quickly. I just satisfy myself with removing the tabs of metal that stick out sideways from the head around the nick.

My question is, do you think I can use a bench grinder or a grinding stone drillbit and power drill for any of this? I tend to not sharpen things with high speed power tools out of concern for heating up the metal too much and degrading it’s hardness. But I am not sure about this which is why I am writing. Thanks in advance for any comments.


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## dancan

I'll use a flapwheel grinding pad on my grinder to profile an edge but am very careful to keep the steel cool so I don't change the temper .


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## U&A

Some freebies today. Cleaned up the axe with a wire wheel to find the name. Some took a grinder to it kinda bad. That really thick rusty head is odd looking. Any ideas on what it was for? Just a different kind of maul ?












Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


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## Hoosk

svk said:


> Got the surface rust off and hit it with a coat of oil right away to prevent any additional rust.
> 
> View attachment 588902


I have been checking in on this thread occasionally and enjoy seeing the restorations. Coincidentally I was at my mom’s today and came across a similar head...decided to bring it back to life and it will be fun restoring something I know was my dad’s. Does this take the “standard” handle if there is such a thing? Found another gem that brought back memories, going on the wall in my saw area.


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## nathan4104

i've been watching for a while and finally got around to digging out a few old axe heads..... 
First is a Walter. It's rather heavy feeling, probably 5 pounds? 
second has no name but came from the dumpster at work. Apparently it's not safe for forest fire crews to replace handles anymore. When the picking is good there are Ox heads in the trash.....
The Walter needs a new handle i'll get to that later. 
Now to finish this job...


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## rarefish383

Chris Cringle said:


> My apologies if this has been covered already and I simply wasn’t finding it by browsing the site and using the search engine.
> 
> I have several splitting mauls of different weights and profiles. I try to keep the striking edges neat so that they bite sufficiently. Nothing close to sharp. I sharpen them with a bastard file from time to time, again, just to sharpen up flat spots where I struck something hard or the flared metal around nicks. I usually don’t file all the way down to the deepest part of nick because I don’t want to be removing that much metal that quickly. I just satisfy myself with removing the tabs of metal that stick out sideways from the head around the nick.
> 
> My question is, do you think I can use a bench grinder or a grinding stone drillbit and power drill for any of this? I tend to not sharpen things with high speed power tools out of concern for heating up the metal too much and degrading it’s hardness. But I am not sure about this which is why I am writing. Thanks in advance for any comments.


I'm with Dan, I use a flap disk on my DeWalt angle grinder.


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## cuinrearview

I've got a hatchet that I really like the feel of that lost the wedge recently. I call it a hatchet but it's kind of big for a hatchet. The head is heavy and the haft is longer and skinny. I would say it's 18-20". My son said his friend makes handles and will hang it. I told him I would provide some heart wood from a hickory I recently cut up. Then I read conflicting opinions on heart vs. sap wood. It was only a 20" dbh tree so not old growth. What do the experts say?


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## LondonNeil

U&A, nice looking Kelly works!

Nathan, ox in the rubbish!? Ox are superb quality. The stihl stuff is made by them (it has the ox head marking). I've a stihl Pro maul/cleaving hammer that I got brand new and very cheap on eBay as the seller didn't realise it wasn't the standard maul which is about 1/3 the price. It's a beast.

Cu, I've a similar hatchet. Dan the amazing gifted me the head. It needed a lot of work to get it hung well but as it is just over 1 1/2 lbs I put it on a longer handle, 21-22" smedberg. Been using it loads over the last week as I cut back some over grown stuff. It's a good size as it's small enough to swing single handed just, and large enough to slice Clean through 2.5" oak branches. Thanks again Dan, I love it.


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## LondonNeil

Okay, 'experts assemble!' or maybe not....'Bodgers assemble!'

as you know I got hold of a pretty nice 4.5lb Hult Bruk head a while ago and have done nothing with it as its got an unusually large eye, the right length but about 1 and 3/8" wide! I have pondered if it were made with the long size of eye that exists in Europe and had been pounded on the poll and deformed but I find that unlikely as the eye shape looks uniform and right, just too big for any regular handle. So... I ordered 2 Pick axe handles in Ash. 2 as...well I was buying on line and they were cheap, 2 would allow some selection. both tight grained and no hearthwood, both straight enough although one slightly S-shaped (right one)


so one (left) loos really rather good! which balances out against the stick of firewood on the right. 

a closer look



next I select ....the firewood on the right....as I think I may as well practice this hang on the rubbish handle

I drew a line to mark the depth of the head a the eye, i did allow for a small protrusion at the top, but not much. the perspective misrepresents that




Ah ha! i have over come the width issue, yay!




but introduced a length issue....hmm...that can be overcome more easily though.....can't it?



let's tale a look from another angle.... view through...nose of the eye is maybe 1/8" 'on' so once seated down on the handle which tapers heavily (as pick axes, like tomahawks, are friction fit) there shouldn't be a gap, but there won't be material to remove either. back has a good 1/8" gap against the top of th handle, so once seated down the a gap will be a good 1/4 inch.



So I drew another line or 3. Axis line sketched by eye, 'P' for 'Poor' handle and the material to remove. 


and from another angle... yes looks about right at the nose.



Right so my question. before i take my freshly sharpened plane and m freshly bought japanesey raspy file thing to form this handle fit....*do you think I'm on the right track to attempt to fill the back?* I reckon the front of the eye, if I moved the head across such that the back were filled, would be easily filled with basically a protruding wedge and just couple of small gaps, however i think the balance of the head would be awful at that point with the axis of the handle too far back by probably 3/8", maybe more. Striking accuracy would be dire. TBH, my accuracy isn't the bst anyway, but let's not handicap myself here. So plan is to plane the back of the handle flat, cut a lump of the bottom of the handle (its 36" so needs shortening), cut that in half and plane the cu surface flat and then shape to to fill the back of the eye. when good fit is achieved the wedge and the back filler piece will be inserted and glued with gorilla glue, an expanding wood glue. I think this way will be more work and harder to do....although i have managed to a good sharp edge o my cheap jack plane so maybe i can get a flat surface and get the filler piece to glue fimly on. however it feels like necesary work, or else the axe would be far too long on the nose. I am open to other ideas though, if anyone has one.


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## svk

As long as you securely fill the gaps you should be fine whether it is a wood, metal, composite or poured fiberglass.


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## wv311

Anyone able to ID this German axe head ??


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## dancan

*Johann Wiebelhaus*
My best guess at the moment .

From this 






1.53 Lbs SIGNED RARE! VINTAGE GERMAN STEEL AXE HEAD Johann Wiebelhaus


1.53 Lbs SIGNED RARE! VINTAGE GERMAN STEEL AXE HEAD Johann Wiebelhaus



axessive.com


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## wv311

dancan said:


> *Johann Wiebelhaus*
> My best guess at the moment .
> 
> From this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.53 Lbs SIGNED RARE! VINTAGE GERMAN STEEL AXE HEAD Johann Wiebelhaus
> 
> 
> 1.53 Lbs SIGNED RARE! VINTAGE GERMAN STEEL AXE HEAD Johann Wiebelhaus
> 
> 
> 
> axessive.com


Thank you sir !!


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## dancan

Wiebelhaus & Co.


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## Be Stihl

Well guys I started this site when I built a fire pit. Next I had to have a MS261 saw for the firewood. Went looking for an old wood stove to put in the house cause now I have this saw and a passion for cutting wood. Now I have ended up here, with 2 Swedish axes. Don’t know how much more I need but this has turned into a way of life for me. Thanks for all the information and such. 
Anyway, I reshaped the swell end of my GB SFA to more closely resemble the small hatchet handle. I like the feel of it better than the original shape. Now my question is about the thickness of the handle, I want to shave it down to give it a little flex but am not sure if it’s a good idea. Here’s what I have done so far.




Here you can see the original shape, it felt odd in my left hand. 






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## LondonNeil

shape it however you like, but its not a grea idea to leave it next to the stove. It will dry out the haft and shrink it, loosening the head. Nice axes though, very nice


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## Be Stihl

LondonNeil said:


> shape it however you like, but its not a grea idea to leave it next to the stove. It will dry out the haft and shrink it, loosening the head. Nice axes though, very nice



Thanks for the advice. I guess I need to start looking around for some vintage steel, I have always had a thing for old, quality tools. 


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## dancan

Shave it thin to your liking .
If you do manage to break it , rehang and start again .
Old school handles were thin .


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## LondonNeil

INCOMING! I'll wait for the postmen to do their work before saying more.


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## Be Stihl

Not a full size axe but a good find at the flea market today. EC Simmons Hatchet in decent shape but a crack in the handle possibly from seating a loose head. Man it sure does feel good at the palm swell. Rehandle or use it till she breaks?











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## svk

Be Stihl said:


> Not a full size axe but a good find at the flea market today. EC Simmons Hatchet in decent shape but a crack in the handle possibly from seating a loose head. Man it sure does feel good at the palm swell. Rehandle or use it till she breaks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Can you get some wood glue into those cracks? I’d do that then after it’s fully dried, smooth out the blunted areas and sand down the whole works and give it some BLO. 

Really neat head on that one.


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## Plowmaster

svk said:


> Can you get some wood glue into those cracks? I’d do that then after it’s fully dried, smooth out the blunted areas and sand down the whole works and give it some BLO.
> 
> Really neat head on that one.


Maby drill/dowel n glue ... squeeze in vice over nite???


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## svk

Plowmaster said:


> Maby drill/dowel n glue ... squeeze in vice over nite???


Great idea


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## H-Ranch

Be Stihl said:


> Not a full size axe but a good find at the flea market today. EC Simmons Hatchet in decent shape but a crack in the handle possibly from seating a loose head. Man it sure does feel good at the palm swell. Rehandle or use it till she breaks?


I think you'd have a hard time breaking the handle down by the palm swell unless you plan on throwing it. Use it or if it bothers you try to glue it.


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## Be Stihl

Thanks for the suggestions guys! I sanded it to freshen it up a bit and applied BLO. If the handle ever breaks it will be a project my son and I can tackle together. I got it for him so he will leave my GB alone, [emoji57]


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## H-Ranch

So while we are waiting on Neil's postman...

I restored my old new best friend's 8 lb sledge this week. Seemed like the right thing to do since it was the worst mushroomed head I've ever seen and some shrapnel must have broken off when he was using it while I was at his house picking up firewood. Scary. Also, I over struck it on the wedge and compromised the handle. So there was that.

He had picked it up years ago for $5 at a man sale, then proceeded to break the original handle shortly thereafter. He had dutifully gone to the hardware, spent 3x the cost of the sledge on a new handle, and hung it himself. Now clearly no sane man spends much time here with us, but when I say hang, I mean he pounded the handle through the hole. The end.

It originally looked something like this one only worse. (Somehow I was in such a rush to work on it that I didn't get any before pics.)


I cut most off the mushrooming off, filed it back to somewhat flat with the octagon base, then used a flapper wheel on the 4" grinder to remove the bulk of the rust, and finished it with the wire wheel. I also used the file to radius and bevel the faces and took out most of the marks with a foam sanding block. There are still visible cracks but I didn't want to make the 8 lb head into a 6 lb head without asking him first. At least it is less likely to send shards flying now. I found a serviceable hickory handle at the local hardware - not perfect, but not bad either considering they only had the one. At least it had no varnish to remove. Used a chisel to fit the handle to the head which seemed ok after 4 or 5 attempts. I replaced the wedge with one I made from black walnut to add a little color and painted the head red. I used a punch for the final drive of the steel wedge, but wish now that I had used a flat piece of steel the same size as the wedge so the marks were not visible. I'm not sure where you guys get this "wipe the excess" off after applying boiled linseed oil. I've put 3 coats of paint thinner/BLO mixed 2:1 on so far and it has really been soaked up completely each time almost immediately. I'm sure it will be saturated eventually.








It's a far cry from the hunk of rusty steel doorstop it once was so I think he will be happy.

Oh, by the way, thanks California for adding cost to nearly everything I buy now. The prop 65 warning is not really meaningful if it's on EVERY SINGLE PRODUCT, including a natural wood handle.


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## svk

H-Ranch said:


> So while we are waiting on Neil's postman...
> 
> I restored my old new best friend's 8 lb sledge this week. Seemed like the right thing to do since it was the worst mushroomed head I've ever seen and some shrapnel must have broken off when he was using it while I was at his house picking up firewood. Scary. Also, I over struck it on the wedge and compromised the handle. So there was that.
> 
> He had picked it up years ago for $5 at a man sale, then proceeded to break the original handle shortly thereafter. He had dutifully gone to the hardware, spent 3x the cost of the sledge on a new handle, and hung it himself. Now clearly no sane man spends much time here with us, but when I say hang, I mean he pounded the handle through the hole. The end.
> 
> It originally looked something like this one only worse. (Somehow I was in such a rush to work on it that I didn't get any before pics.)
> View attachment 834455
> 
> I cut most off the mushrooming off, filed it back to somewhat flat with the octagon base, then used a flapper wheel on the 4" grinder to remove the bulk of the rust, and finished it with the wire wheel. I also used the file to radius and bevel the faces and took out most of the marks with a foam sanding block. There are still visible cracks but I didn't want to make the 8 lb head into a 6 lb head without asking him first. At least it is less likely to send shards flying now. I found a serviceable hickory handle at the local hardware - not perfect, but not bad either considering they only had the one. At least it had no varnish to remove. Used a chisel to fit the handle to the head which seemed ok after 4 or 5 attempts. I replaced the wedge with one I made from black walnut to add a little color and painted the head red. I used a punch for the final drive of the steel wedge, but wish now that I had used a flat piece of steel the same size as the wedge so the marks were not visible. I'm not sure where you guys get this "wipe the excess" off after applying boiled linseed oil. I've put 3 coats of paint thinner/BLO mixed 2:1 on so far and it has really been soaked up completely each time almost immediately. I'm sure it will be saturated eventually.
> View attachment 834458
> 
> View attachment 834459
> 
> View attachment 834461
> 
> View attachment 834460
> 
> It's a far cry from the hunk of rusty steel doorstop it once was so I think he will be happy.
> 
> Oh, by the way, thanks California for adding cost to nearly everything I buy now. The prop 65 warning is not really meaningful if it's on EVERY SINGLE PRODUCT, including a natural wood handle.
> View attachment 834462


Nicely done. I had a friend with a Chinese made sledge that was mushroomed like that. I took it and threw it away and gave him a decent one.


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## LondonNeil

Good work on that sledge! I'm amazed it mushroomed though, cheap steel I guess?


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## H-Ranch

svk said:


> I had a friend with a Chinese made sledge that was mushroomed like that. I took it and threw it away and gave him a decent one.


LOL - probably would have been the better course of action here too. I'm sure it won't see much action so it's OK.


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## svk

H-Ranch said:


> LOL - probably would have been the better course of action here too. I'm sure it won't see much action so it's OK.


Honestly you did a beautiful job on that.


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## Marine5068

Be Stihl said:


> Not a full size axe but a good find at the flea market today. EC Simmons Hatchet in decent shape but a crack in the handle possibly from seating a loose head. Man it sure does feel good at the palm swell. Rehandle or use it till she breaks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Beauty of a hatchet. Sure is a pretty design.
It's not that bad of a crack and its better that it's where it is.
I like the idea of drilling a hole and making a dowel to glue into it to keep it from splitting further.
You could even use a nice contrasting wood like Walnut or Chestnut for the dowel.
As for the head, I'd leave it just how it is. Just put an edge back on it with files and stones.
Make sure you post some more pics of the progress.


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## Marine5068

I have been looking for some leather sheaths to protect the edges of some of my axes and hatchets but I'm not having much luck.
Thought I had found some decent ones at a local Canadian Tire store for a decent price for two of my axes, but when I fit them they wouldn't work.
Have any of you made your own or know someone who has?
I'd like to learn how to make some custom ones for my axes, hatchets and maybe some knives I own.
I do have a Cousin that makes leather goods but she lives way out in Toronto so it's a fair hike there (4 hours).
Thanks.


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## LondonNeil

Ben Scott in the 'tube is normally pretty good for axe stuf. this leather sheath make vid popped up last week. i've not watched it but i will recommend it anyway


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## LondonNeil

While I wait on the postmen to ship stuff across the atlantic, I have made progress (at last! you cry) with my 4.5lb HB.
here it is on the 36 inch handle, seeing it I'm thinking i like it and may not shorten it after all...undecided...I'll give it a few swings before I decide


boy that handle is bad! still, this is the practice run at turning a pickaxe handle into a felling axe handle. I'll likely give the axe to my nephew to learn to help his dad split...and get it back in a few weeks once its broken so I can try again with the decent haft I have.
i
The fit isn't too bad so far. bit of work but got it almost straight to the haft eventually. I got slightly carried away with the freshly sharpened plane and the new shinto rasp, and took a bit too much material off the first inch or so in places, but the wedge should deal with the front



the back I knew would need an extra bit of packing wood


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## LondonNeil

decent fit around most of both sides.


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## LondonNeil

Next I'll make a roughly shaped packing piece and gorilla glue to the back, once dry I'll finish the fit then cut the kerf and whack a wedge in....should get around to that before the end of the decade.


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## Be Stihl

Marine5068 said:


> Beauty of a hatchet. Sure is a pretty design.
> It's not that bad of a crack and its better that it's where it is.
> I like the idea of drilling a hole and making a dowel to glue into it to keep it from splitting further.
> You could even use a nice contrasting wood like Walnut or Chestnut for the dowel.
> As for the head, I'd leave it just how it is. Just put an edge back on it with files and stones.
> Make sure you post some more pics of the progress.



Thanks for the compliments, I fell in love with it at first site. I believe it has the original handle as the others I have looked at online have the exact same shape. I have sanded it and applied 4 coats of BLO on her, they are still soaking in completely dry in 20 min. As for the crack it appears better after a few coats, will wait to see if it opens up after a little use. Just may do the dowel rod treatment to preserve the original 100 year old handle. Not sure what wood it is, looks like hickory to me but when I sanded it was a shade of brown all the way through. It also had a funny smell to the wood dust, kinda familiar but can’t recall where I have smelled it before. More pics coming soon. 


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## Be Stihl

Marine,
As for the sheath making, I have made one from old boot leather for my X27. I used a speedy stitcher and some copper rivits from a hardware store. You can do it!







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## rarefish383

My friends are moving to Florida, and have to be out of their house by the end of the month. They literally filled my truck up with rakes, shovels, digging bars, a 5 "HP" 20 gallon air compressor, a big steel milk can, a bigger white crock with blue makers Mark, and these two axes. The double is a Keen Kutter, Made in the USA, and the single is a Craftsman. The Keen Kutter is in real nice shape and I'm sure it has the original wood in it.


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## H-Ranch

Be Stihl said:


> I have sanded it and applied 4 coats of BLO on her, they are still soaking in completely dry in 20 min.


I applied the 5th coat to the sledge tonight and it is the first time there was enough to wipe off with a rag after 20 minutes (but only barely enough to dampen the rag.) Another coat or two and I think I'll call it done.


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## rarefish383

Neil, what ever happened with that old beat up Jersey?


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## rarefish383

Be Stihl said:


> Marine,
> As for the sheath making, I have made one from old boot leather for my X27. I used a speedy stitcher and some copper rivits from a hardware store. You can do it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have an awl that looks just like that, that was my grand fathers. Mine is over 100 years old. Well not exactly like that. The handle is a little longer, and the fat end unscrews for storage of different needles.


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## rarefish383

Here's the sheath for my wife's, grandfathers American Beauty. It is riveted with copper rivets all the way around. If you see the one rivet on the opening, just inside the flap on the right? It's just enough that the axe will not slip in and out. You have to slide the blade in at an angle to get it to go in. Then the clip on the left secures it well. I don't know if this sheath came with the axe or is home made, they are both about 100 years old also.I plan on making some out of thick leather for my other doubles. I like stitched sheathes with flaps and a snap for belt hatchets and cruisers. I like the heavier leather and rivets for doubles and big choppers and fellers.


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## rarefish383

All of the years I spent with my son in the Scouts, we did a good bit of leather work. Don't let it scare you, it's pretty easy once you get the hang of it. The only belt I have that fits me is one I made at Scout Camp. I knew I'd expand some as I got older, just didn't plan on expanding as much as I have. If I ever get around to making some sheathes, I plan on getting a set of stamps, and stamping the make of the axe on the matching sheath. All of the stamps to make the patterns you see on holsters, belts and stuff are available at craft stores, so you can make a fancy one. It really is easy.


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## rarefish383

If anyone gets the urge to make a sheath, one thing I was going to try, is put the sheath with the axe in it, in a vacuum bag and suck the air out. That should get the imprint of the axe in the leather so it looks like a custom fit. The one on the American Beauty above has that imprint just from sitting in the sheath for many years.


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## Be Stihl

Here’s what the handle looks like on the Keen Kutter I recently found, 5 coats in and starting to feel good. 












Look at those fat cheeks!


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## LondonNeil

rarefish383 said:


> Neil, what ever happened with that old beat up Jersey?


Still got it and its still not hung. very very embarrassed!. just after i got it I got a wetterlings and another and somehow got into a spin thinking perhaps i should use the curved haft i had started to hang it on, on the wetterlings instead and get a straight haft for the jersey. my reasoning was the jersey with its large and a bit beat up poll, makes a nice wedge banger and a straight haft would be better for that....so i went hunting and found it hard to find a decent straight haft. it then slipped down the list of jobs.  I am making progress though, honest! I've got my extrabit glued on to the haft for th HB now, hope to get that finished shortly, then its back to the jersey....possibly with the other (and decent) pick axe haft now that I've got a bit of practice reshaping one....hmm...although the jersey eye is longer....i'll have to check if the pick axe haft tapes too much.
I know i'm carp at getting these jobs done. I blame 2 (very soon to be 3) kids under 5!


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## LondonNeil

I'm still waiting on the transatlantic postmen doing there good stuff too.


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## LondonNeil

had an idea, but not sure if it would work. instead of paracord as an overstrike protector has anybody tried a bit of wire, like garden wire maybe, probably a bare/galvanised type? 
this sort of thing https://www.gsproducts.co.uk/1-25mm...k_SpT-R1GeJoh074o-ZcSC1nuUCu1uFAaAu2HEALw_wcB

a single strand steel wire...thin enough to wind nice and tight around the haft, but as tick as can be wound neatly so it is hopefully nice and robust. can't quite think how to finish it/tie it off so it stays tight and doesn't stick out....solder the end few coils I guess, fluxed cored welding rod of some kind and a butane torch? galvanised could be a problem though? anybody got any experience on welding/brazing/solder rods, or garden wire?


----------



## H-Ranch

LondonNeil said:


> had an idea, but not sure if it would work. instead of paracord as an overstrike protector has anybody tried a bit of wire, like garden wire maybe, probably a bare/galvanised type?
> this sort of thing https://www.gsproducts.co.uk/1-25mm...k_SpT-R1GeJoh074o-ZcSC1nuUCu1uFAaAu2HEALw_wcB
> 
> a single strand steel wire...thin enough to wind nice and tight around the haft, but as tick as can be wound neatly so it is hopefully nice and robust. can't quite think how to finish it/tie it off so it stays tight and doesn't stick out....solder the end few coils I guess, fluxed cored welding rod of some kind and a butane torch? galvanised could be a problem though? anybody got any experience on welding/brazing/solder rods, or garden wire?


If I were going to try something like that I would consider stainless steel safety wire and twist the ends with the safety wire pliers.


----------



## LondonNeil

But if you twist the ends you've then got a bit too catch your hands on that sticks out and is sharp, that's why I'm a bit stuck.


----------



## H-Ranch

LondonNeil said:


> But if you twist the ends you've then got a bit too catch your hands on that sticks out and is sharp, that's why I'm a bit stuck.


Founds a place to tuck the twisted ends in! 


Seriously, it would require some forethought to know where to stop and make it so the ends were less likely to catch on something. Maybe right under the head in the direction of the wrap or coiled up behind the handle under the poll.


----------



## LondonNeil

yes I had considered.....I still haven't ruled it out. I've a 6 and 1/2 inch long piece of ash glued on the back now, ready to be shaped down. I'm still considering making a space to thread the wire right up through the eye though. might have to give that a try


----------



## Plowmaster

LondonNeil said:


> But if you twist the ends you've then got a bit too catch your hands on that sticks out and is sharp, that's why I'm a bit stuck.


Like H-ranch said... safty wire twist... a 90 degree bend at the end... drill a small hole ... stuff twist in and glue if needed... good luck with project


----------



## rarefish383

I like a leather wrap. Try a piece of foam hot water pipe insulation then wrap it tight with black electrical tape. You can replace it daily if you need to. Anything you put on it just screems, look, I can’t hit the same spot twice.


----------



## rarefish383

OK, for you guys that like big heavy stuff. I promised my wife I would get rid of 6 things today. I found 5 maul heads. 3 are old with a thin taper. They cut into a log and don't bounce. One is a new hardware store head, a Fiskers look a like axe, and a wedge. I want $15 dollars plus shipping for the odd long skinny maul head. The rest go in free. I'll use a pre paid USPS box. So I'll keep stuffing things in the box as I find them and get to 70 pounds. If I start to go over 70 pounds I'll pull out the non axe stuff. First PM with an "I'll take it, gets it". I plan on getting as close to 70 pounds as I can.


----------



## rarefish383




----------



## H-Ranch

rarefish383 said:


> OK, for you guys that like big heavy stuff. I promised my wife I would get rid of 6 things today. I found 5 maul heads. 3 are old with a thin taper. They cut into a log and don't bounce. One is a new hardware store head, a Fiskers look a like axe, and a wedge. I want $15 dollars plus shipping for the odd long skinny maul head. The rest go in free. I'll use a pre paid USPS box. So I'll keep stuffing things in the box as I find them and get to 70 pounds. If I start to go over 70 pounds I'll pull out the non axe stuff. First PM with an "I'll take it, gets it". I plan on getting as close to 70 pounds as I can.


That's a very generous offer. Somebody is going to get a box of treasures!


----------



## rarefish383

Pile is growing.


----------



## LondonNeil

rarefish383 said:


> I like a leather wrap. Try a piece of foam hot water pipe insulation then wrap it tight with black electrical tape. You can replace it daily if you need to. Anything you put on it just screems, look, I can’t hit the same spot twice.



hehe! i'm guilty as charged! although to ana extent an overstrike can happen when striking the far side of a round if the split runs oddly.


----------



## rarefish383

rarefish383 said:


> View attachment 835525


OK, I’m going to up the anti. I found a nice 5 1/2 pound Jersey, that is not all beat up. I’ll add that pic later. Too tired to go back out.


----------



## rarefish383




----------



## rarefish383

That was a 3 1/2 pound.


----------



## rarefish383

We have a taker on the box of maul heads. Multifaceted said he'll trade me a beer for the whole pile. That includes the 3 1/2 pound Jersey. He lives close enough he can save the shipping and just stop over and get them.


----------



## rarefish383

Holy Cow, The middle of June and Santa Neil dropped a gift off in my garage. With so much being delivered now a days. We have 4-5 deliveries a day. I went in for lunch, and when I came back out, there was a package sitting in the middle of the floor I just cleaned up. Since Fathers Day is coming up I figured it was more socks from the kids. I cut and split firewood in shorts wearing Krocks on my feet. Just fancy flip flops. My socks get so filled with saw dust I'm not allowed to put them in the washer, so I just toss them. I bent over to pick them up and threw my back out. Two beautiful vintage heads, Kent patterns.. Thank you much Neil. I will have to commission Clarence to hang them, I couldn't do them justice. 

Thanks for asking, every one home is doing well. My daughter just got married back in November and is an Occupational Therapist. When covid hit they didn't want all of the Therapists being exposed, so they drew straws to see who worked with the covid patients. She drew the short straw. So she says. I think she volunteered and just didn't want to tell her Mom. Two weeks ago she tested positive. She had no fever or other symptoms. She gets tested once a week and that's how they found it. A few days later she had cold like symptoms, but never a fever. Shes well now. But, her husband was trapped in their apartment with her, and this week he got it. He had a fever for a couple days and felt worse than Jennifer did. But, he's almost well now. They still have 7-8 days of quarantine before they can go back to work.

Thanks again, one of these days I'm going to find you a Plumb Cruiser Double.


----------



## LondonNeil

Yay! I was starting to fear the transatlantic posties had mislaid them. Really glad they arrived and I hope your wife isn't too pee'd that the clearout is in reverse already! As I said in the note, had them ages and been meaning to post, it takes a worldwide pandemic to get it sorted. Oddly wife and i were just saying we currently feel busier than ever despite all that, suspect a lot is nerves....Wife goes in to the maternity ward for them to try and encourage 'bump' to start arrival tomorrow...so I need to get to bed and get a good nights sleep! I can do that now knowing you are well and those 2 heads have arrived. If you haven't worked it out, they are (some) of the 'INCOMING!'........ I said incoming.... just not to me, hehe!

If anybody is interested, those Kent pattern heads are common vintage stuff over here although you won't see new axes that shape anymore. I'm not totally sure but think they were commonly used in hedge laying. the top one is a Gilpin, and IIRC the bottom is an Elwell? or is it a Brades? all 3 are good English makes, but long consigned to the history books....the UK lost/gave up its manufacturing base a long while ago now.

Now fingers crossed the posties will deliver the other bits shortly


----------



## H-Ranch

LondonNeil said:


> Now fingers crossed the posties will deliver the other bits shortly


Oh man! I'm going to check my mailbox NOW!  

Good luck to you and your family tomorrow.


----------



## U&A

Does the “R” stamped on the bottom of this maul help identify the maker?

I










Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## rarefish383

When I first started collecting axes I was looking for makers marks. I found a big chart with at least a hundred different makers marks. I didn’t make a copy, and have never been able to find it again. If you happen to find a chart copy it and post it here.


----------



## rarefish383

Was just doing more searches for makers marks. Saw a cool hatchet, so I went to eBay to see if they had one. Scrolling down there was a girl holding an axe head between her boobs. Scrolled down a bit more and there she was again, different top, different axe, same boobs, three different axes, three different tops, same boobs. I wonder if their marketing plan helps?


----------



## U&A

rarefish383 said:


> Was just doing more searches for makers marks. Saw a cool hatchet, so I went to eBay to see if they had one. Scrolling down there was a girl holding an axe head between her boobs. Scrolled down a bit more and there she was again, different top, different axe, same boobs, three different axes, three different tops, same boobs. I wonder if their marketing plan helps?



Iv seen them boobs before 

Definitely makes me more interesting in getting that head........the axe head. Ya know.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## cat10ken

Last winter my bother-in-law asked if I would add wood to his outdoor burner because he was going to be gone overnight. When I went to fill the stove I noticed a double bit axe head with the handle broken off leaning against the stove. It was badly rusted so I couldn't see any maker's mark. When he got home I told him I could clean it up for him and put in a new handle as I had bought a box of handles at an old hardware store going out of business. He said take it, you can have it.
I took it home, put it on my partially open vise and beat out the broken handle with a big punch. Then I cleaned it up with the wire wheel on my bench grinder.
Much to my surprise a name appeared on the head. Black Raven! Google that to see what those are worth.
I told him about it and said I couldn't keep it but he insisted I keep it. It is now my favorite axe head of the 60 or so that I own. If I knew how I would add pictures but I am old and unteachable.
Thanks for reading my long story.


----------



## svk

rarefish383 said:


> Holy Cow, The middle of June and Santa Neil dropped a gift off in my garage. With so much being delivered now a days. We have 4-5 deliveries a day. I went in for lunch, and when I came back out, there was a package sitting in the middle of the floor I just cleaned up. Since Fathers Day is coming up I figured it was more socks from the kids. I cut and split firewood in shorts wearing Krocks on my feet. Just fancy flip flops. My socks get so filled with saw dust I'm not allowed to put them in the washer, so I just toss them. I bent over to pick them up and threw my back out. Two beautiful vintage heads, Kent patterns.. Thank you much Neil. I will have to commission Clarence to hang them, I couldn't do them justice.
> 
> Thanks for asking, every one home is doing well. My daughter just got married back in November and is an Occupational Therapist. When covid hit they didn't want all of the Therapists being exposed, so they drew straws to see who worked with the covid patients. She drew the short straw. So she says. I think she volunteered and just didn't want to tell her Mom. Two weeks ago she tested positive. She had no fever or other symptoms. She gets tested once a week and that's how they found it. A few days later she had cold like symptoms, but never a fever. Shes well now. But, her husband was trapped in their apartment with her, and this week he got it. He had a fever for a couple days and felt worse than Jennifer did. But, he's almost well now. They still have 7-8 days of quarantine before they can go back to work.
> 
> Thanks again, one of these days I'm going to find you a Plumb Cruiser Double.


Cool heads and glad the cases were mild.


----------



## svk

cat10ken said:


> Last winter my bother-in-law asked if I would add wood to his outdoor burner because he was going to be gone overnight. When I went to fill the stove I noticed a double bit axe head with the handle broken off leaning against the stove. It was badly rusted so I couldn't see any maker's mark. When he got home I told him I could clean it up for him and put in a new handle as I had bought a box of handles at an old hardware store going out of business. He said take it, you can have it.
> I took it home, put it on my partially open vise and beat out the broken handle with a big punch. Then I cleaned it up with the wire wheel on my bench grinder.
> Much to my surprise a name appeared on the head. Black Raven! Google that to see what those are worth.
> I told him about it and said I couldn't keep it but he insisted I keep it. It is now my favorite axe head of the 60 or so that I own. If I knew how I would add pictures but I am old and unteachable.
> Thanks for reading my long story.


Awesome. Do you know how to text pictures? You could text to one of us up post.


----------



## cat10ken

Nope, I don't have a smart phone so I don't text.


----------



## U&A

Old handle I had to cut off that was in really bad shape. Unbelievable how tight the grain is. 

I’ve never seen anything in stores like this. 

And that waviness to it I imagine Has to help a tad bit







Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## svk

U&A said:


> Old handle I had to cut off that was in really bad shape. Unbelievable how tight the grain is.
> 
> I’ve never seen anything in stores like this.
> 
> And that waviness to it I imagine Has to help a tad bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


I wonder if a private sawmill could make some blanks out of tighter grain stuff. I agree, much of what I see at stores is wide grained and often oriented the wrong way.


----------



## rarefish383

I'd like to find a Black Raven. I sure can't afford to buy one.


----------



## rarefish383

svk said:


> I wonder if a private sawmill could make some blanks out of tighter grain stuff. I agree, much of what I see at stores is wide grained and often oriented the wrong way.


I cut a few Ash bla la with grain so tight you need an ice pick to count the rings. You could free hand the ruff blank and the square it up on a table saw. That's what I did on my throwing hatchet a couple years ago.


----------



## rarefish383

svk said:


> I wonder if a private sawmill could make some blanks out of tighter grain stuff. I agree, much of what I see at stores is wide grained and often oriented the wrong way.View attachment 836493


I cut a few Ash bla la with grain so tight you need an ice pick to count the rings. You could free hand the ruff blank and the square it up on a table saw. That's what I did on my throwing hatchet a couple years ago.


----------



## cat10ken

Yes I know. I Googled Black Raven axe heads and see people are asking $600- 1200. Amazing and I now have one!


----------



## U&A

svk said:


> I wonder if a private sawmill could make some blanks out of tighter grain stuff. I agree, much of what I see at stores is wide grained and often oriented the wrong way.



Got a new handle for my maul yesterday. I was talking to the hardware store guy and telling him about the grain direction and how it’s better when they’re tight and he was looking at me like







Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## rarefish383

First thing I tell the kid at Ace is if he's going over to the isle and start reading items to find the correct applications, he's no dam good to me. I learned how to read before he was hatched.


----------



## svk

U&A said:


> I was talking to the hardware store guy and telling him about the grain direction and how it’s better when they’re tight and he was looking at me like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]





rarefish383 said:


> First thing I tell the kid at Ace is if he's going over to the isle and start reading items to find the correct applications, he's no dam good to me.


Definitely a common issue.

I usually know exactly what I need, just need someone to point me in the right direction once I get in the store.....You either get someone who has no idea where stuff is at, or if it is an Ace you get the old guy who wants to argue with you cause he knows better. A guy cannot win LOL


----------



## U&A

Got it hung yesterday. May have found a new favorite Maul as a companion to my Fiskars 36” super split. 

The grain in not the best but it is the best i found in town. All the others looked terrible. This one is only kinda bad[emoji1787]

Anyone have a good source that you can buy handles online and trust that you’re getting a good one?






Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## Multifaceted

Many thanks for a surprise gift from our esteemed member, @LondonNeil !

What a beautiful little 2.25 lb Elwell Kent Patterns axe - I've always wanted a nice Kent pattern! Such a classically historic and old design. What better way to show it off than sitting atop a 25kg sack of my favorite English brewing malt:














In true English fashion, I might have to hand carve a handle from some Ash. Some medium sized trees are recently dead, and may be somewhat green still - the small diameter riven wood would make for a good light axe length.


----------



## LondonNeil

Excellent! Glad it arrived safe and hope you enjoy it. It's made me smile to gift you it, I think little gestures during these weird times help to keep us and our friends well and smiling!


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> Excellent! Glad it arrived safe and hope you enjoy it. It's made me smile to gift you it, I think little gestures during these weird times help to keep us and our friends well and smiling!



You are a true gentleman, many thanks!


----------



## rarefish383

Hell, smile is an understatement, I was dancing in the garage!


----------



## svk

@Multifaceted the DB axe you did for me rides in the truck and I end up using it once or twice a month. It cuts so well, thanks again.


----------



## LondonNeil

And the slowest rehafting ever is complete! 

I'm very happy with the hang. Shame the handle runs out so badly!


----------



## LondonNeil

The filler chunk was cut from another cheap handle in the end. I planned the back of the main handle to get a large flat surface, gorilla glued it on, left a week or was it two? Then spoke shave and so Shinto rasp... Super tight fit...


----------



## LondonNeil

And after a scorch and some blo






Mr nephew is going to borrow it I think. He wants to learn to help split... He's 13. He'll no doubt break that handle fast.


----------



## LondonNeil

I'd been using my favourite hatchet (thank you Dan!) To smack the wedge home, so it got some BLO too.

Note how impressive the gorilla glue is. The cut off top of handle I can't pull apart! Glue only been on for 20 mins


----------



## U&A

LondonNeil said:


> And after a scorch and some blo
> 
> View attachment 837344
> View attachment 837345
> View attachment 837346
> 
> 
> Mr nephew is going to borrow it I think. He wants to learn to help split... He's 13. He'll no doubt break that handle fast.



REALY NICE! Nice [emoji1303] 


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## LondonNeil

Thanks! Yes I'm pleased with how it turned out. If I do as well with the decent handle when it comes to it I'll be pleased. I've had a load of good swings at a tree stump and it seems very firm. Also, despite the handle being thick, it's got quite a bit of flex. It's Ash, we don't grow hickory, Ash is our tool handle wood of choice. Not t what we will do in a few years as ash die back is killing it.... Won't be any left for the borer which is also marching across Europe. I'm very pleased.
The head is a 4.5lb hultsbruk.


----------



## svk

I love the vintage bottle of BLO too.


----------



## LondonNeil

He he! I wasn't sure anyone would notice. It must be as old as me.... Dates back to dad doing DIY and adding blo to outside gloss paint or to putty.


----------



## dancan

LondonNeil said:


> I'd been using my favourite hatchet (thank you Dan!) To smack the wedge home, so it got some BLO too.
> 
> Note how impressive the gorilla glue is. The cut off top of handle I can't pull apart! Glue only been on for 20 mins



Glad you're that you're getting good use out of it !


----------



## sean donato

I wondered what blo was till I went back and looked at that bottle again lol. Linseed oil. Now i know


----------



## LondonNeil

Hay, yes, boiled linseed oil.

It gets lots of use Dan, it's brilliant for kindling and also around the garden, light but big enough to get through a lot. Steel is great, I've not touched the edge since I hung and sharpened it.

Btw, is your postal service working?


----------



## Be Stihl

rarefish383 said:


> Was just doing more searches for makers marks. Saw a cool hatchet, so I went to eBay to see if they had one. Scrolling down there was a girl holding an axe head between her boobs. Scrolled down a bit more and there she was again, different top, different axe, same boobs, three different axes, three different tops, same boobs. I wonder if their marketing plan helps?



Saw the same set of boobs, big ones at that. It sure made me look at junk I don’t need. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> @Multifaceted the DB axe you did for me rides in the truck and I end up using it once or twice a month. It cuts so well, thanks again.



Glad to hear! That was a bit of a project. In its condition I might have passed it up on my own, but in the spirit of sentimentality, I just couldn't - and it ended up turning out great with lots of serviceable years remaining.


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Glad to hear! That was a bit of a project. In its condition I might have passed it up on my own, but in the spirit of sentimentality, I just couldn't - and it ended up turning out great with lots of serviceable years remaining.


Your efforts were very much appreciated. I’ve shown it to a lot of people.


----------



## dancan

LondonNeil said:


> Hay, yes, boiled linseed oil.
> 
> It gets lots of use Dan, it's brilliant for kindling and also around the garden, light but big enough to get through a lot. Steel is great, I've not touched the edge since I hung and sharpened it.
> 
> Btw, is your postal service working?



Glad you like it , them things pop up like dandelions around here Lol
No mail problems here .


----------



## svk

Found this ball peen hammer on my morning walk. It apparently went through some trauma on its way to the ground. Fell through some sort of moving machinery as the gashes are pretty deep and one appears to have severed the handle which I did not find.


----------



## cat10ken

Looks to have been hit by a lawn mower or brush hog.


----------



## svk

cat10ken said:


> Looks to have been hit by a lawn mower or brush hog.


That makes a lot of sense. The guy mowing the ditches recently probably hit it, the handle blew up on impact and the head was thrown up onto the shoulder where I found it.


----------



## dancan

WoOT !!!


----------



## dancan

The wife and I were out this evening and stopped at the post box .She asks what did I order .
? , nuthin I said .

Well , 20 minutes later trying to unwrap a small well taped package I discover that I'm a happy recipient of a Brades #2 Kent pattern head 

Thanks Neil !!!


----------



## LondonNeil

Yay! I'm very relieved and happy it arrived. Was worried as it took so much longer than Joe as and Clarence's. You got the Brades didn't you, like the Gilpin and the Elwell the others got, Brades was a quality English tool maker but long since disappeared. Hope it adds something to your collection and if it makes you smile as much as the head you sent me, you'll be a pretty happy fellow


----------



## LondonNeil

I'm on a roll! Oh yeah! One for Joe, I hope you feel its a fair job @rarefish383 






28" ash handle, a cheap one but with decent grain alignment it seems. I decided to use this as it was a cheap handle to practice hanging a Jersey on (its my first, and i wasn't sure how easy it would be) but decent enough that hopefully it won't break for a while. As it was the hang seemed ok, so when it does break the straight 28" Smedberg hickory stick will be used.


----------



## LondonNeil

Fit is pretty good. no curl but its tight with no gaps.






and once wedged no gaps and a nice swell up top (see this photo...I forgot to add a metal wedge, it will get one)



final photo...oh yeah...happy with that! needed a lot more off one side of the handle than the other to achieve it. My axes always seem to need the same side shaved heavily!


----------



## LondonNeil

Just gave the Jersey a run out. Oh yeah I'm happy with the hang, and the haft, both it's length and it's flex. Unfortunately it's a felling axe and doesn't split tough stuff for toffee. Although TBF, tough stuff would always get a bigger axe.... I don't think it'll do much splitting, but it already makes me grin . Thanks Joe!


----------



## LondonNeil

Is it just me that struggles to get a straight handle? Cut straight I mean, I'm not complaining about warped, straight shaft not bent/ fawn foot. Ok suburban London isn't ideal for farm supply shops and quality hardware shops have long disappeared from most high streets, beaten out by the big box type which just sell cheap tools and any handle would be a struggle. Hence I'm shopping online. I can get Smedberg straight at 30" and to 32", and straight handles for replacement of various Gransfors or hultafors but as they cost £28-35, plus postage I hunted for something cheaper. I've resorted to more pick axe handles. Carter's hickory navvy pick handles, 7 quid after postage, I bought 4. 2"*3" eye.... Even with the taper that should fit many axe eyes. I know at that price some will be poor, but if 2 of 4 are decent then I'll be smiling. I do wish I could find some cheap straight axe hafts though.


----------



## U&A

The Kelly that was given to me.


Before








After (re-hung and cleaned up)
















Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## LondonNeil

smart! looks the part!


----------



## U&A

LondonNeil said:


> smart! looks the part!



Thanks,

I want to start selling them as a side hobby. Jist dont like shipping them. Trying to get a consignment deal locally somewhere. 


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## svk

U&A said:


> The Kelly that was given to me.
> 
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After (re-hung and cleaned up)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


Looks great


----------



## U&A

svk said:


> Looks great



How good.....[emoji848]. So good you want to buy it? ......[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji6][emoji6]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

LondonNeil said:


> Fit is pretty good. no curl but its tight with no gaps.
> View attachment 838703
> 
> 
> View attachment 838704
> 
> 
> and once wedged no gaps and a nice swell up top (see this photo...I forgot to add a metal wedge, it will get one)
> View attachment 838705
> 
> 
> final photo...oh yeah...happy with that! needed a lot more off one side of the handle than the other to achieve it. My axes always seem to need the same side shaved heavily!
> View attachment 838706



I assume this is more of a felling/chopping axe? The cheeks seem shallow enough that it may not be a splitter...?


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## LondonNeil

Yes. I thought it might be thick enough to split ok, but from a quick try with it, no, its a felling axe.


----------



## LondonNeil

The 4 carter's pick axe handles just arrived and look very decent! Grain straight along the length of all four which is most important. 2 with largely up/down grain orientation, one 45° and one across. Eye end size and taper such that they should fit a standard 23mm X 63 mm axe eye without the need to glue on an additional piece I think, and with half inch out the top of the head. At £28 the four, delivered they seem brilliant! If I shorten one by more than a couple of inches though I'll need to reinstate a palm swell somehow. They should be easy... Electrical tape? Cloth tape? That might soak up blo and harden well....or maybe paracord wrapping. Yeah one of those would work.


----------



## abbott295

You will probably be taking a good bit off to slim down the handle; planning for the palm swell, you should be able to do it with the rasp, yes?


----------



## U&A

LondonNeil said:


> Yes. I thought it might be thick enough to split ok, but from a quick try with it, no, its a felling axe.



Well the thing is really cool thats for sure. [emoji41] 


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

LondonNeil said:


> Is it just me that struggles to get a straight handle? Cut straight I mean, I'm not complaining about warped, straight shaft not bent/ fawn foot. Ok suburban London isn't ideal for farm supply shops and quality hardware shops have long disappeared from most high streets, beaten out by the big box type which just sell cheap tools and any handle would be a struggle. Hence I'm shopping online. I can get Smedberg straight at 30" and to 32", and straight handles for replacement of various Gransfors or hultafors but as they cost £28-35, plus postage I hunted for something cheaper. I've resorted to more pick axe handles. Carter's hickory navvy pick handles, 7 quid after postage, I bought 4. 2"*3" eye.... Even with the taper that should fit many axe eyes. I know at that price some will be poor, but if 2 of 4 are decent then I'll be smiling. I do wish I could find some cheap straight axe hafts though.



I find a lot of them that seem like the handle is crooked/twisted.

Makes it hard to hang them nice. 

Every time I’m in a hardware store and look for a good handle whether I need one or not


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## LondonNeil

U&A said:


> Well the thing is really cool thats for sure. [emoji41]
> Thanks! I love it for 2 reasons. It's a very unusual head for over here, we don't have Jersey pattern axes plus American makers are rare here. The main reason though is that Joe sent it to me completely out the blue! It bowled me over when I opened the parcel and read his note. That's sort of why it's taken so long for me to hang as I wanted to ensure I did a good job. And the first reason is why I've left much of the mushroom on the poll, just tidied the quest worst. I don't want to take the 'True Temper' marking off.
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]





U&A said:


> I find a lot of them that seem like the handle is crooked/twisted.
> 
> Makes it hard to hang them nice.
> 
> Every time I’m in a hardware store and look for a good handle whether I need one or not
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


No you miss understood. I can get fawn foot/curved pattern handles easily enough, but can't get straight pattern easily. That's why I bought the pick axe handles to try. You may be right about a palm swell....if I thin the handle down... Yeah might do that. If the spoke shave cuts it readily then it's simple. I think the handle I used for the hultsbruk was beech and the spoke shave didn't want to cut it. I thought I'd not given it a good sharpen, but the ash handle I used with the Jersey cut really easily so I guess the wood may have been the difference. The new pick handles are American hickory, I've yet to use my new spoke shave on hickory.

Btw, best thing I did that made the hangings really REALLY easy, was buying a Shinto rasp and the spoke shave. Neither were costly, and since they make removing material so easy I find no pressure to rush, no frustration, so less mistakes and less cutting corners. If you just use a bastard file I'd recommend a Shinto rasp and a cheap spoke shave (but spend 10 minutes with the whetstone and sharpen the iron)


----------



## LondonNeil

Oops. Too tired. I've managed to embed half my reply within the first quote box!


----------



## rarefish383

One of these days, if I find just the right head, I’m going to hang an ax on a handle that looks like WCFields pool cue.


----------



## svk

Acquired this nice head today. They guy had a free box that was about 24x24. He insisted I took the whole thing if I wanted the axe. There was also a decent lawn sprinkler in there. The rest goes in the trash.


----------



## LondonNeil

Question, do you guys think a hults bruk heads are better than the modern, hultafors? Confused by the amount people here pay on the ' bay for Hb heads, often more than a new hultafors equivalent (complete axe)


----------



## LondonNeil

Now this is a heck of a rehang! Clarence, you've got competition!  


seriously though, I'm intrigued. I can't find the build video just yet but its mentioned in the comments.


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> Question, do you guys think a hults bruk heads are better than the modern, hultafors? Confused by the amount people here pay on the ' bay for Hb heads, often more than a new hultafors equivalent (complete axe)


Are you talking about the old blue heads?


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## LondonNeil

Any HB head really, blue or not. I suspect many of those on eBay aren't that old, but yet so long as it's a bit used, and missing a handle, it seems to sell for about the cost of a new hultafors axe.


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## svk

I’m not sure if they all are like this but the blue head ones are fantastic chopping axes. I regret selling mine.


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## LondonNeil

The blue painted ones were EX range I think, although I've seen red and yellow EX too. The EX being 'export' I think.

Here is an example. In fact the example that is causing me frustration as its me that pushed it to this price.









Vintage Hults Bruk HB large Axe .Made in Sweden 2.0 k.g 4 1/2 lb | eBay


Large Swedish axe. Marked 2kg - 4.5lb.



www.ebay.co.uk





Now the head looks in good condition and it's on a shaft, possibly original, don't really care, but ok. It's at £57 after postage. That's not bad TBF, but with 3 days to go I reckon it'll go higher yet. Now a brand new hultafors arvika 5 star is the closest equivalent new axe I guess, and I can get them after a simple Google, for £122. To my mind, and maybe others think differently, I don't want to pay a premium for a used haft as it might be shagged. I also don't want to pay for some cretin to hang a head badly and seek a premium for a 'restoration'. Exhibit A (an Elwell head, but you get my drift....how bad it's that!!!)








VINTAGE 4 1/2 LB ELWELL FELLING AXE AXE | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for VINTAGE 4 1/2 LB ELWELL FELLING AXE AXE at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!



www.ebay.co.uk





If I factor in £35 for a new smedberg haft as in the arvika then the used head needs to be well under £90 to be worthwhile. I'll return to this when it sells.... My guess will be £75-85 after postage.

I may try another bid yet, but not going far.

SA wetterlings seem as good to me but can be slightly cheaper... Slightly. There's an even worse hung example of an ok head here








ANTIQUE VINTAGE FELLING AXE 5 lbs S A W swedish axe Wetterling ex from Sweden | eBay


THE AXE HAS BEEN CLEANED AND IN GOOD ORIGINAL CONDITION. THE AXE HEAD HAS A FEW SCARS AND KNOCKS ON IT. HEIGHT CM. WIDTH CM.



www.ebay.co.uk





Now with that I'm paying extra for postage to get a haft I'll cut off and bin! Cretins!

Ok.... rant over. I've found another Hb.... Currently the high bidder.... I'll likely be back ranting once out bid.... Seller is in the ' polish it and call it a restoration, charge a premium' camp, and someone will go for it.

I'm just frustrated....eBay and a yard sale or farm auction are worlds apart!


Oh and take a look at this. This is the one and ONLY double I've ever seen with a UK seller. They weren't used here. It looks ok, just pitted, and at 4.5 lbs is a bit unusual I guess, but no name. Several days to go and I've been outbid again..... £49 after postage. If only postage from the states were a bit less.... We could make a bit of pocket money on doubles!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184361754159


Yes, I know, I'm just peeved as I've been outbid. They are worth more to someone else than to me I guess.


----------



## LondonNeil

For comparison I just checked my 'Bay history. The 4.5 Lb HB I hung the other week I got for £28.99 plus postage, so probably £35. Ok it did have a weird eye but no one bidding new that. I also have a 5lb S.A.W to hang, identical to that one I linked above. I paid £21 plus postage for that. I did spend AGES bidding to get those 2 bargains, but I get the feeling things are going up, and up...and up. Trouble is I'd still like a 4.5ln HB that doesn't have weird size eye, and I know the S.A.W has a pretty PPPHHAAAAAATT profile so ought to be a demon splitter....maybe I ought to test that theory before i bid 3 times as much as last time on another...but....hmm. Or I could sell my HBand the SAW and by brand new Arvika with the profit. nuts


----------



## LondonNeil

If at first you get outbid, search, search and bid again.
I've just found a S.A.W EX. either its flown under the radar or its on a very short listing. fingers crossed.
I've also found a 'Made in Sweden' with no markers name. I'm not expert but I'd guess S.A.W or HB, but heres the extra bit of info...green. its got traces of green paint. Does that give anyone any clues as to what it might be?


----------



## U&A

svk said:


> Acquired this nice head today. They guy had a free box that was about 24x24. He insisted I took the whole thing if I wanted the axe. There was also a decent lawn sprinkler in there. The rest goes in the trash.
> 
> View attachment 842098
> View attachment 842100
> View attachment 842101



NICE!! 

In Great shape. It will be a looker 


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## LondonNeil

. Out bid by one person on the ex saw, and also on a Hb arvika. They went at £41 and £50, still very reasonable and I suspect the winners are very pleased. I on the other hand.... Poo. Next to miss out on, a wrongly listed military issue of W Gilpin, and then the green Swede. 
If at first your get outbid....


----------



## LondonNeil

£72 plus postage for that vintage HB. nuts as the identical one i found that someone had polished up and described as 'an Arvika' went at £41. I then slapped a bid in with 50 seconds to go on a 2 1/4lb wetterlings but no, it went at £46 ...fair actually as handle looked ok, but not what I'm after. in a fit of frustration I slapped a low bid in quick on a 4 1/2 Lb Elwell withe same seller but was too tight and it went at £26. oh the double bit didnt go as high as i thought, £45 plus postage. Still, for a no name head its not a bargain.

However  I did win the mis described military issue W Gilpin..and I got that cheap  £26 plus postage. If that had been properly described I reckon about twice that. I'm also still in the race for the made in sweden. it seems gransfors used green paint once.....but then so did Hults and Wetterlings


----------



## LondonNeil

For all my frustration I do have some project heads. Here they are, having had a few coats of rust eater and a wipe of BLO to stop any new rust.
the Wetterlings is marked 5 (lbs) and looks nice and fat. I'm hopeful it will be an excellent splitter and since it is a good swedish head, in good condition, its getting a Smedberg 32"
then there is a Sandvik 4.5lb Made in Germany. The Swedish (pre Bahco merger) heads were made by Wetterlings but after Bahco shifted production to Germany they were made by Helko Werk, it looks a perfect wedge shape and felling thin. Good condition but I can see me moving it on once hung so I think it'll go on one of my pick axe handle conversions.
finally the HUGE head is the military issue Gilpin made in 1979, Gilpin are a good British make. I hadn't realised it was as big! 6lb I assume, I need to weigh it. Its a chopper profile but being so big it might have a role in the splitting arsenal, we shall see. I think it will be another pick axe handle conversion, the extra length might be useful.


----------



## LondonNeil

If I do this....what do you see? 4 photos?
This evening’s work.






a 6lb military issue Gilpin from 1979. Hung on a 36″ haft but I sunk it down a long way, haft probably ended up 35″ at most. It, supposedly is Hickory, I’m doubtful as it feel very light, which makes me think its Ash. TBF the lightness makes the axe feel light despit its silly big head, which is nice. The Haft has bloody good grain, no run out and almost up down orientation, very good!

After fitting I thinned the sides of the handle ever so slightly, gave it a go for an hour splitting some firwood, then a wipe of oak stain and a coat of BLO. I’m unsure if the solvents in the stain thinned the BLO, or the wood was super dry and thirsty, either way it took a lot of oil and will need many more coats over the next few days…as the saying goes, once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, then once a year. ok now for some detail photos..
Hmmm, not as straight as I’d like, I rushed it a bit.





Oh yeah! that should hold it!




and a good fit down the bottom too. Happy.


----------



## svk

Looks nice. 

That unfinished wood is pretty light in color. I’m thinking you are correct with ash.


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## LondonNeil

started work on the german sandvik, its going on a straight handle so its another pick axe conversion. My process in photo story below...although back to front! This is as far as I got tonight. From this point on it just like a norma hang, except I thin the handle down more later. You may notice I position the eye to the front of the handle, because of the taper it will have a 1/4" gap total at the bottom once hung. Putting it forward means the gap is at the front where I think it makes less difference. More to come










Oh BTW, I am a little undecided on the finish of the head, for thins bahco and for the no name swede I won. So far I've gone for the 'keep them honest' approach and when a head has paint I like to preserve it, but I'm toying with a partial polish. Maybe polish the front and see if I can fade it to untouched as I go toward the poll


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## Lowhog

U&A said:


> Some freebies today. Cleaned up the axe with a wire wheel to find the name. Some took a grinder to it kinda bad. That really thick rusty head is odd looking. Any ideas on what it was for? Just a different kind of maul ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


plumb National in the center above the mail head?


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## DSW

LondonNeil said:


> Now this is a heck of a rehang! Clarence, you've got competition!
> 
> 
> seriously though, I'm intrigued. I can't find the build video just yet but its mentioned in the comments.




When Fiskars didn't want me to send my broken chopper back I saved the head to eventually try something wild and now I can't find it. 

I was just gonna play around with it, I wasn't too worried if I got it to work or not. 

Neat to see somebody do it.


----------



## LondonNeil

Apparently the guy is on Facebook group called axe junkies and did a 'how I did it' post there. I've not managed to find it, but haven't looked extensively


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## DSW

Having seen one open there certainly isn't a standard way to rehang. 

I was favoring the idea of wedging it horizontally but also considering separate pieces that attach.

Probably wouldn't have even considered it but I already had the steel and I was having really good luck with traditional hangs and makeshift wedges.

His is much nicer than mine was gonna turn out so maybe I'm off the hook now.


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## U&A

Lowhog said:


> plumb National in the center above the mail head?



Only one iv fixed up so fare is the kelly and i sold it for $70.

Ill look at the one your talking about and see if there is a stamp. That would be cool if it was a Plumb


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## LondonNeil

its hung. Need to thin the handle and oil, and polish up the head. Ended up with a bit f a gap at the back...I'll mix some epoxy. its firmly on though tbh. Rather straight hang! pleased


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## LondonNeil

It's finished, and I've sold and delivered it. Sold at cost, I'm happy as I enjoyed hanging it and got to try out a head for free, buyer got a great axe for about a tenner less than an x27 would be. I tried it out, had quite some oomph and split some tough stuff, but was definitely DEFINITELY a felling profile and tended to stick like s*** to a blanket in the round if it didn't split!




Sold so fast I didn't get to try and polish the head and only just got a second coat of oil on it!


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## LondonNeil

I came across this blog yesterday and thought a few here might find some of it interesting








Traditional Tools


Axes, Hand Tools & Traditional Knowledge




www.traditional-tools.com


----------



## LondonNeil

Have any of o used gunblue/cold blue on an axe head? and can you suggest which brand/product to use? I am thinking of making the GBA hatchet I have into a decorative wall hanger and bluing the head, or at least a part....might 'fade' it to steel toward the bit. Birchwood casey seems to get excellent reviews, but super blue or permablue? are they for different steels? any advice most welcome. ta.


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## derwoodii

weekend i was mucking about axe throwin practice and check out my flukey flipper trick ( if the FB vid link works)










Derwoodii | Facebook


92 views, 1 likes, 0 loves, 1 comments, 0 shares, Facebook Watch Videos from Derwoodii Lynn:




www.facebook.com


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## svk

Scrounged this sledge eye 6# maul head from the free pile at the dump. I’ll rehang, sharpen, and find it a new home.


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## U&A

From this (on on the left)







To this























Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


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## LondonNeil

Nice work u&a, head looks smart cleaned up like that and the handle fit looks a super job. The photo showing the top of the haft and head, are they cracks at the poll? Hope not!


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## U&A

LondonNeil said:


> Nice work u&a, head looks smart cleaned up like that and the handle fit looks a super job. The photo showing the top of the haft and head, are they cracks at the poll? Hope not!



Thanks and yes.

They are cracks. The grain direction on this handle is not the best. But this axe is actually going to be a wall hanger with a few others (some not done yet) behind my wood stove. 

Still sucks but ....[emoji2373]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


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## LondonNeil

AHH, I see, looks smart


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## LondonNeil

Btw, handle looks great. It's it an old one reused? If not, you've done a great job giving it patina how did you do it? I've considered taking dirt, maybe stove ash and garden dirt, and rubbing it in the handle to try and work it into the grain.


----------



## U&A

LondonNeil said:


> Btw, handle looks great. It's it an old one reused? If not, you've done a great job giving it patina how did you do it? I've considered taking dirt, maybe stove ash and garden dirt, and rubbing it in the handle to try and work it into the grain.



Brand new handle 

I sprinkled blue calk from a calk line string on the handle as i was rubbing BLO on it. Did that a few times.. worked great. 

Then hit it with brown 3m scotch pad to clean it up. 


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


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## LondonNeil

top work!


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## LondonNeil

photos to come, not finished yet and was rushed but.... i've got the 'made in sweden' 4.5 lber hung. seated well down, haft ended up at 28", I went with a cheap ash haft i had, grain is ...mleh...ok but. i did something different to normal. usually when i get the head seating well i smack the wedge in and move on. this time i got the head sitting down, but knocked it off one more time, sanded it smooth, scorched the bit that goes through the eye, oiled it and then reseated the head. my thinking, sand smooth to help the head slide on a bit more, scorch to dry it/reduce later shrinkage, oil it for both. well it definitely seemed to help the head slide on! it went on another 3/4". ended up with a small gap around the back somehow, but snug everywhere else.


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## LondonNeil

Not finished yet but.


----------



## LondonNeil

Next up


Eye looks slightly distorted


Actually I'm fairly sure it's not. It's just someone has filed/ground off mushrooming on one side of the bottom of the eye and not the other so it looks odd. Also the distorted poll adds to the effect. I'll tidy it properly on the bench grinder I think.
Sandvik. No country mark so I think Swedish, pre bahco and the move to Germany and Helko Werk. Which means..... It's a wetterlings.


----------



## selenarichard

svk said:


> What do you guys think? Should we start a dedicated thread for axe restoration or keep posts in the splitting/chopping tool review thread?


I suggest to start a new thread.


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## LondonNeil

So I was complaining about emay prices during and shortly after our covid lockdown....they seem to have slumped the other way a bit now. Wife an I have won a few things at some pretty low prices and today I picked up a nice looking HB 4lb head at under half the going rate, paying just £20 after postage! Its been tidied up and polished, I bet the seller was hoping for a lot more. only worry is the listing showed no photos of the eye so i i've taken a bit of a chance. I bid on a second one at the same time as i didn't really expect to win with my bid....hope i get outbid on the other now!


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## rarefish383

selenarichard said:


> I suggest to start a new thread.


The question you answered is 3 years old. This is the new thread. There is a tool review thread somewhere, you might have to go back a ways to find it. It doesn't get as much action as this thread gets.


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## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> Have any of o used gunblue/cold blue on an axe head? and can you suggest which brand/product to use? I am thinking of making the GBA hatchet I have into a decorative wall hanger and bluing the head, or at least a part....might 'fade' it to steel toward the bit. Birchwood casey seems to get excellent reviews, but super blue or permablue? are they for different steels? any advice most welcome. ta.


Neil, I used Birchwood Casey blue 30-40 years ago on a black powder derringer. It was a replica of the one used to shoot President Lincoln. It worked well. When I did my throwing hatchet a couple years ago I wanted something a little different, so I browned it. Browning was used before bluing. It's easy, but you do need to heat the head till the solution sizzles when it touches the steel.


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## cat10ken

I went to an auction yesterday in SW Wisconsin; lots of antiques and tools. I watched three Black Raven axes sell, two double bits, one for $380, the other for $150. A single bit went for $270. I got a Kelly Hand Made double for $75 and a pair of Wards Master Quality Vanadium doubles. Brings my axe collection to over 70 pieces. I'm running out of wall space.


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## LondonNeil

Looks smart Joe. Was it the colour or another reason that you chose to brown?


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## LondonNeil

Phew! With 10 hours to go I've been outbid ok the other HB. Only by 7p, but I'm not the highest bidder! So long as the one I won has a straight eye, it really was a bargain, this second one is at 75% higher price already


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## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> Looks smart Joe. Was it the colour or another reason that you chose to brown?


Just something different. When I found the head it was so rust pitted I ground 8 once’s of steel off of it to get it almost smooth. Then it was polished to a mirror finish. I don’t like the polished look on vintage axes, so I browned it. I might have used Birchwood Casey Browning on it.


----------



## LondonNeil

The 4lb Hb has arrived and ...oh...no photo of it, soz I thought i had one for you. next time. It is lovely, its been polished and is in really really good nick. I can't believe i got it for £16+£4 postage, very very pleased!

I also got a Gilpin (good British make) 2 3/4lber on its way. that weight, the boys axe range 2 1/4 up to 3 or so lb, seem so rare here, particularly the 2.5 to 3.5 ish range. Yet on a 28" handle they can do so much.

to hang them.....
I found only the second place so far that sells Smedbergs handles and although postage is ever so slightly more than the other shop, the price of each haft is quite a bit less. They don't do the full range, no straight ones but hey-ho I bought 4 delivered (2x 32", and 2x30") for £90, that was about the price of 3 handles from the shop I used before.
They arrived and as you expect from Smeds, 3 are perfect, zero grain run out and not far off straight front/back orientation. However I think I may have to send this last one back. what you guys say? large chunk of heart wood, and shocking run out. it is at least side run out not front back, but it still seems bad to me....or am I just being picky? I'd never have chosen that myself though.





i now have a lot of projects!


----------



## CR888

Great job on the axe head. But....after all that beautiful work then the re-hang with a nice wedge, what compelled you to go one step further and drive a metal wedge into the handle wedge??!! This may just be me but if I ever want (or don't want) to get wood to split, I drive metal into it. Whether it's a nail, an ax or splitting wedge, they all act the same way and crack the wood apart. I see it all the time on beautiful hung axes that were just perrrfect untill someone decides they want to drive some metal in there. If I was God almighty I'd ban those little metal wedge terrors.


----------



## lead farmer

Eye haven't posted on here in awhile but keep lookin for stuff. Dont know what these are but they were nice. No stamping othere than the wieght and scuffed up decals. Thought you might enjoy.






Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## CR888

Something purdy about them Jerseys.


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## Stonesforbrains

Just curious if any of you guys know what this is named/ when it was made? I am sure it’s a brush cutter, just never seen one like it. I found it out in the Dome Rock mountain range north of the Yuma Proving Grounds in Arizona a couple weeks ago. We were searching for section corners on the BLM land near the old Colorado River Indian Reservation. It isn’t really that old but I was a bit surprised to find any kind of cutting tool where we were. Not much to cut out there. Second photo was the actual corner of the reservation and a couple miles from where I found the strange brush cutter tool. Any info would be helpful, I’m going to hang it in my wood shed as is. The handle is really cool the way it’s desert weathered.


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## Woodslasher

lead farmer said:


> Eye haven't posted on here in awhile but keep lookin for stuff. Dont know what these are but they were nice. No stamping othere than the wieght and scuffed up decals. Thought you might enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Looks like some Kelly Woodslashers, good axes, decent quality. Better than what you’d get at a hardware store today by a long shot!


----------



## svk

Score from the free pile at the landfill today. This one should chop really nice, very thin profile.


----------



## H-Ranch

Stonesforbrains said:


> Just curious if any of you guys know what this is named/ when it was made? I am sure it’s a brush cutter, just never seen one like it. I found it out in the Dome Rock mountain range north of the Yuma Proving Grounds in Arizona a couple weeks ago. We were searching for section corners on the BLM land near the old Colorado River Indian Reservation. It isn’t really that old but I was a bit surprised to find any kind of cutting tool where we were. Not much to cut out there. Second photo was the actual corner of the reservation and a couple miles from where I found the strange brush cutter tool. Any info would be helpful, I’m going to hang it in my wood shed as is. The handle is really cool the way it’s desert weathered.


I have a similar story of finding one on a trail in Canada, where there is lots of brush to cut. Generally referred to as a Swedish brush axe. Great tool for clearing small branches. Sorry to say it may not be that old as you can sill buy them today. Depending on the handle, you could get a new blade and use that thing today.


----------



## Stonesforbrains

H-Ranch said:


> I have a similar story of finding one on a trail in Canada, where there is lots of brush to cut. Generally referred to as a Swedish brush axe. Great tool for clearing small branches. Sorry to say it may not be that old as you can sill buy them today. Depending on the handle, you could get a new blade and use that thing today.


Thanks for the info, I don’t have a use for it so I will just hang it up.


----------



## LondonNeil

CR888 said:


> View attachment 858389
> View attachment 858389
> Great job on the axe head. But....after all that beautiful work then the re-hang with a nice wedge, what compelled you to go one step further and drive a metal wedge into the handle wedge??!! This may just be me but if I ever want (or don't want) to get wood to split, I drive metal into it. Whether it's a nail, an ax or splitting wedge, they all act the same way and crack the wood apart. I see it all the time on beautiful hung axes that were just perrrfect untill someone decides they want to drive some metal in there. If I was God almighty I'd ban those little metal wedge terrors.


Some people, even haft makers like Smedbergs, think a metal wedge is important and provide one with their handle. I think many feel its best not to glue the wooden wedge as if the head loosens and the wood wedge isn't glued its easy to remove the wooden wedge, knock the head on further and rewedge. if done so, a small metal wedge pins the wood wedge in. however a glued wedge can be drilled out and is more secure. others seem to like that the metal spreads the wood and secures the head more and tbh I've never heard of an axe failing because the splits caused by a metal wedge, so....why not?


----------



## LondonNeil

I've messaged the shop that sold me the smeds, wit the photo from post #2100 above, and asked for their view.


----------



## Hinerman

I am replacing a handle on a maul that was given to me, nothing fancy. I notice the maul has a small lip in the eye. I am in the process of sanding the handle to make it fit in the eye. My question:

How tight should the handle be when fitting to the maul head? Should the handle slide on easily? Should it be so tight I need to hammer it in with a sledge? Somewhere in between?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## LondonNeil

tight. As tight you can, then drive the wedges in. don't hammer the head on, push it on, then hold the handle with the head dangling, and rap the end of the handle crisply with a hammer to drive it in further. you'll hear when it goes no further, and can see. then wedge it.


----------



## Hinerman

LondonNeil said:


> tight. As tight you can, then drive the wedges in. don't hammer the head on, push it on, then hold the handle with the head dangling, and rap the end of the handle crisply with a hammer to drive it in further. you'll hear when it goes no further, and can see. then wedge it.



Is this good? I had to use a post driver to get it this far. I’m afraid to keep beating on it.


----------



## U&A

CR888 said:


> View attachment 858389
> View attachment 858389
> Great job on the axe head. But....after all that beautiful work then the re-hang with a nice wedge, what compelled you to go one step further and drive a metal wedge into the handle wedge??!! This may just be me but if I ever want (or don't want) to get wood to split, I drive metal into it. Whether it's a nail, an ax or splitting wedge, they all act the same way and crack the wood apart. I see it all the time on beautiful hung axes that were just perrrfect untill someone decides they want to drive some metal in there. If I was God almighty I'd ban those little metal wedge terrors.



I guess ive learned to do it wrong all along[emoji2373][emoji1787]

Ill go without from now on. 


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## Hinerman

Hinerman said:


> Is this good? I had to use a post driver to get it this far. I’m afraid to keep beating on it.
> 
> View attachment 859941



Anybody?


----------



## LondonNeil

Yes if it's been smacked hard like that it sounds tight. The fact is not down in the shoulder is good. Shoulders are bad. Heads should tighten, not slip on until a shoulder. Friction fit is tighter and if it ever loosens, you get the wedge out, knock it on a little further and rewedge.


----------



## LondonNeil

For best results, the haft should touch all the way around the eye, no gaps. Not easy that, but that's the aim


----------



## Hinerman

LondonNeil said:


> Yes if it's been smacked hard like that it sounds tight. The fact is not down in the shoulder is good. Shoulders are bad. Heads should tighten, not slip on until a shoulder. Friction fit is tighter and if it ever loosens, you get the wedge out, knock it on a little further and rewedge.



Thanks


----------



## svk

Took a look at the scrounged DBA. The head has creeped up on the last owner and since it got rained on, was all swelled. 

Tried to tap it on to no avail. Put it in my furnace room on top of the water heater so it can dry out a bit. 

Anyone recognize that decal?


----------



## LondonNeil

I'd drill the wedge out, knock the haft out, clean the head up, dry the haft as you are but watch for warping or excessive cracking, refit the head properly, sand and blo the haft, sharpen the head.


Well actually I'd do none of that as I'd not find the time, but I'd like to do that.


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> I'd drill the wedge out, knock the haft out, clean the head up, dry the haft as you are but watch for warping or excessive cracking, refit the head properly, sand and blo the haft, sharpen the head.
> 
> 
> Well actually I'd do none of that as I'd not find the time, but I'd like to do that.


To do it right, that’s the way. 

I’d like to just get the head set right, de-rust, and hit with BLO.


----------



## lead farmer

svk said:


> Took a look at the scrounged DBA. The head has creeped up on the last owner and since it got rained on, was all swelled.
> 
> Tried to tap it on to no avail. Put it in my furnace room on top of the water heater so it can dry out a bit.
> 
> Anyone recognize that decal?
> 
> View attachment 860399
> View attachment 860400
> View attachment 860401


Collins homestead series

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## svk

lead farmer said:


> Collins homestead series
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Awesome, thanks!


----------



## Hinerman

svk said:


> Took a look at the scrounged DBA. The head has creeped up on the last owner and since it got rained on, was all swelled.
> 
> Tried to tap it on to no avail. Put it in my furnace room on top of the water heater so it can dry out a bit.
> 
> Anyone recognize that decal?
> 
> View attachment 860399
> View attachment 860400
> View attachment 860401



How do you clean the rust off that head?


----------



## cat10ken

I use a wire wheel/brush on my bench grinder to remove the rust.


----------



## svk

Hinerman said:


> How do you clean the rust off that head?


I was just going to do a vinegar soak then sharpen with a stone.

Once I get the head on all of they way I’ll dry out the handle and give it the BLO treatment.


----------



## LondonNeil

svk said:


> To do it right, that’s the way.
> 
> I’d like to just get the head set right, de-rust, and hit with BLO.


Fair call, I'd reckon dry it out for a couple of weeks, if the handle is still straight and not insanely cracked then file the bit of curl off, then smack the handle end hard. If it goes on again then drive a couple or 3 metal wedges in and leave in a bath of blo.


----------



## Lowhog

After years of searching locally I found one priced reasonably at a flea market.


----------



## svk

Lowhog said:


> After years of searching locally I found one priced reasonably at a flea market.View attachment 860674
> View attachment 860674
> View attachment 860676


Awesome


----------



## svk

Funny story, on my Facebook marketplace I get a suggested ad for a “vintage axe” for about $75. The axe head has “wear safety glasses” stamped into the head. Wondering exactly how vintage it is... LOL


----------



## vtfireman85

This one has been kicking around for years, I’ve no idea if it was a tag sale purchase or a family heirloom, I grabbed it to put a new handle on ad it was broken, when I start to clean it up I discovered it was stamped Sager Chemical Axe 1936. If I had had any idea it was old I would have been careful of the thing and cleaned it more gently. I plan to paint it, finish sharpening it and put a new oiled handle on it. I talked o a friend today, she does custom leather work and she is go to make me a sheath.
if anyone has any information about these I would be grateful for anything more.


----------



## svk

Maul head I got from the dump, sharpened and hung on 32” hickory. I’ll probably gift it to my new neighbor.


----------



## rarefish383

Stonesforbrains said:


> Just curious if any of you guys know what this is named/ when it was made? I am sure it’s a brush cutter, just never seen one like it. I found it out in the Dome Rock mountain range north of the Yuma Proving Grounds in Arizona a couple weeks ago. We were searching for section corners on the BLM land near the old Colorado River Indian Reservation. It isn’t really that old but I was a bit surprised to find any kind of cutting tool where we were. Not much to cut out there. Second photo was the actual corner of the reservation and a couple miles from where I found the strange brush cutter tool. Any info would be helpful, I’m going to hang it in my wood shed as is. The handle is really cool the way it’s desert weathered.


I picked up a little brush ax like that for a buck last year at a farm auction. It's in pretty good shape with most of the paint and finish on it. I think I found that mine is a Sandvick.


----------



## rarefish383

Lowhog said:


> After years of searching locally I found one priced reasonably at a flea market.View attachment 860674
> View attachment 860674
> View attachment 860676


My local Tuesday evening auction sells lots of old axes. Most in the $5 range. But, there is one other collector there that takes every ax I want. He out bid me 5-6 straight times. This little Norlund came up and I told my cousin I was going to go $15 on it. It was in a lot with several other axes. The other guy showed up and asked to separate the Norlund. As soon as I saw him I knew I had to take that one, or he would know I'd always back down. Went to $35 and he hesitated, and the auctuioneer said sold. So I got it for $35.


----------



## vtfireman85

rarefish383 said:


> My local Tuesday evening auction sells lots of old axes. Most in the $5 range. But, there is one other collector there that takes every ax I want. He out bid me 5-6 straight times. This little Norlund came up and I told my cousin I was going to go $15 on it. It was in a lot with several other axes. The other guy showed up and asked to separate the Norlund. As soon as I saw him I knew I had to take that one, or he would know I'd always back down. Went to $35 and he hesitated, and the auctuioneer said sold. So I got it for $35.


Im mo expert but i think its dangerous to use that barefoot


----------



## LondonNeil

Whoop whoop! Whoop whoop! Whoop whoop! I just won a Gransfors head, 3.5lber in what seems to be great condition! paid less than a lot of the much more common 4.5lb HB heads in worse condition go for! Good jobI stocked up on smedy's!

Oh and @rarefish383 I split some of the fresh green English oak with the True temper Jersey, that oak splits really nicely. I used the x27 just to halve or quarter the round then picked up teh Jersey on its 28" haft and it rattled through really nicely. I'm going to enjoy using that a lot i can tell!


----------



## svk

svk said:


> Maul head I got from the dump, sharpened and hung on 32” hickory. I’ll probably gift it to my new neighbor.
> View attachment 862028


Gave this to my neighbor. Told him to use it and if it breaks I’ll put a new handle on it!


----------



## rarefish383

vtfireman85 said:


> Im mo expert but i think its dangerous to use that barefoot


That's OK, I cut fire wood with my 660 in crocks with no socks and short pants. Some day I may wake up. I gave a friend a Homelite C51 to mill with, he gave me a pair of chaps. The last time I went to a rendezvous, I wrapped 2 rifles in them, worked pretty good. SVK gave me a pair of Kevlar gloves. I use those rascals when ever sharpening axes and saws. They are nice, I used to nick my knuckles on saw chain all the time.


----------



## rarefish383

svk said:


> Gave this to my neighbor. Told him to use it and if it breaks I’ll put a new handle on it!


I called Multifaceted a month or two back and showed him a pile of maul heads I was going to throw in the scrap bucket, and one nice ax head. I forget if it was a Jersey or not. He said he would pay for the ax. I said, "You don't get it, I told my wife I would get rid of three things a month that I don't use. The 6 mauls and one ax are seven things, that's 2 months plus, it's all or nothing". He took them all.


----------



## svk

rarefish383 said:


> That's OK, I cut fire wood with my 660 in crocks with no socks and short pants. Some day I may wake up. I gave a friend a Homelite C51 to mill with, he gave me a pair of chaps. The last time I went to a rendezvous, I wrapped 2 rifles in them, worked pretty good. SVK gave me a pair of Kevlar gloves. I use those rascals when ever sharpening axes and saws. They are nice, I used to nick my knuckles on saw chain all the time.


Oh good! I forgot about those.


----------



## svk

svk said:


> Took a look at the scrounged DBA. The head has creeped up on the last owner and since it got rained on, was all swelled.
> 
> Tried to tap it on to no avail. Put it in my furnace room on top of the water heater so it can dry out a bit.
> 
> Anyone recognize that decal?
> 
> View attachment 860399
> View attachment 860400
> View attachment 860401


After ten days on the water heater, the head walked right back onto the handle when I banged the bottom of the handle on the concrete. 

Next we do a vinegar bath for the head.


----------



## svk

Where there’s a redneck will there’s a redneck way. 

Needed a container to fit a DB axe head but not require gallons of vinegar. Cleaned out this oil jug and it only took a couple quarts to get over the axe head.


----------



## svk

Some interesting metallurgy on this head. 

Instead of the rusty head turning the vinegar bath into a red, frothy mess like every other head I’ve soaked, the vinegar has barely turned color and the rust scale is coming off very slowly but surely. Only the hardened edges still hold scale after two days and three scrubs.


----------



## svk

Just about done, I’ll give it one more day then oil the head and dry the handle again before finishing.


----------



## svk

That handle has picked up some pretty good black stains from the rust busting process. Per my brother in law who builds log homes: Use a solution of 3 parts water to 1 part bleach to remove dark stains from wood prior to staining/varnishing. Once it has been bleached, I am going to use Watco to get it a bit darker than my standard BLO refinishes.


----------



## LondonNeil

Those black stains could look quite nice, particularly if it highlights the grain.

Are you going to put it by the water heater for a couple of weeks again?

I'm intrigued by buckin's favourite, Wad Ka! I've looked on the website and see there are lots of products, the usual oils like tung, teak, blo, and such like. I'm not sure exactly which product buckin uses. I'm guessing it's one that's a 'hard wax oil'. A blend of wax and oils. I've saicos hard wax oil on my parquet and that seems good.


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> Those black stains could look quite nice, particularly if it highlights the grain.
> 
> Are you going to put it by the water heater for a couple of weeks again?
> 
> I'm intrigued by buckin's favourite, Wad Ka! I've looked on the website and see there are lots of products, the usual oils like tung, teak, blo, and such like. I'm not sure exactly which product buckin uses. I'm guessing it's one that's a 'hard wax oil'. A blend of wax and oils. I've saicos hard wax oil on my parquet and that seems good.



It’s only stained black about 3” up from the head. The rest is bone white. I’ll take it back to white then do the whole thing in “wadca”. Love when he calls it that.


----------



## svk

Actually the stains are not too dark. Maybe I’ll be able to sand and refinish.


----------



## LondonNeil

I just browsed across this youtube content which I enjoyed, and thought a few of you guys might too, particularly @Multifaceted


----------



## svk

Scrubbed the handle of the DBA with bleach solution tonight. Will get pics shortly.


----------



## LondonNeil

The press here reckons it's national lockdown #2 for the UK next week. Maybe I'll have time to hang a few more axe heads!!


----------



## svk

Here’s the handle after bleaching. The bleach process knocked out all but a tiny bit of the rust stain and it’s only visible on this side. 

The “Wadca” (Watco) should easily cover that stain.


----------



## svk

After one coat of “Wadca”. The area stained by vinegar really took in the stain. I’ll sand the whole thing lightly and coat again.


----------



## LondonNeil

Wow didnt it just!


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> Wow didnt it just!


Good thing it is a working piece and not a shelf queen!


----------



## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> The press here reckons it's national lockdown #2 for the UK next week. Maybe I'll have time to hang a few more axe heads!!


Funny how the press gets to do that? You would think it would be the Surgeon General. Just messin with you Neil. The press over here think they are the Second Coming.


----------



## LondonNeil

It's how our present political leaders have been working. They leak the plan to the press on Friday, monitor the reaction over the weekend and then implement or not on Monday. Sure enough, we went into lockdown again.


----------



## rarefish383

Well, hang them axes, and a couple press nuts too.


----------



## svk

I see an axe listed locally with “Bell Systems” stamped in it. Would this be from Bell telephone for linemen?

Edit: Did some more looking and yes this is the case.


----------



## Woodslasher

I sorted through 55 or so gallons of extra “striking tools” today and re-discovered these adze heads. If anyone here wants one, I’ll give you the head but you’ll have to cover shipping. Otherwise, I’ll sell ‘em locally or on ebay.


----------



## svk

I’ve acquired a DBA this summer. The eye is significantly larger than a cruiser but smaller than a traditional DBA eye. House Handor shows nothing near it for replacement. Any idea what’s up with this? I suppose I’ll have to shave down a standard handle to fit.


----------



## rarefish383

I think I have couple doubles that are between a cruiser and a bigger one. Soon as I get my French Bread Pizza out of the oven, I'll check.


----------



## muad

Howdy all. I was blessed by @Woodslasher with some gorgeous old axes and axe heads. I want to play with "restoring" and hanging, and am wondering where y'all get your handles? 

Rural King has Links brand USA Hickory handles, which I picked up a 36" single bit handle this evening. Wasn't super impressed with the selection, and so many were warped. I was able to get one that looks pretty decent, is mostly straight, however when they cut the slot up top it's not even, which frustrated me. I'm still gonna use it as a learning peace, just have to figure out what I'm gonna hang on it.

Would love to find some Ohio/Michigan Ash handles to start with. Also, are there any guides or books y'all recommend for choosing the right type of handle or length? One of the axes he gave me I think has a 28 inch handle, I believe it is a Kelly woodslasher head at 3 or 3.5lbs? The sucker splits awesome! I have another Unmarked head he gave me that needs hung which looks smaller and lighter than the one I just mentioned. Maybe 2.5 pound? I'm gonna grab my postal scale for my dad's so I can weigh it. Seems to me it'd be perfect for a small axe to carry along to bang wedges, etc. What would be the recommended length for that?

Any help is greatly appreciated, I think I may have found myself a new hobby


----------



## U&A

muad said:


> Howdy all. I was blessed by @Woodslasher with some gorgeous old axes and axe heads. I want to play with "restoring" and hanging, and am wondering where y'all get your handles?
> 
> Rural King has Links brand USA Hickory handles, which I picked up a 36" single bit handle this evening. Wasn't super impressed with the selection, and so many were warped. I was able to get one that looks pretty decent, is mostly straight, however when they cut the slot up top it's not even, which frustrated me. I'm still gonna use it as a learning peace, just have to figure out what I'm gonna hang on it.
> 
> Would love to find some Ohio/Michigan Ash handles to start with. Also, are there any guides or books y'all recommend for choosing the right type of handle or length? One of the axes he gave me I think has a 28 inch handle, I believe it is a Kelly woodslasher head at 3 or 3.5lbs? The sucker splits awesome! I have another Unmarked head he gave me that needs hung which looks smaller and lighter than the one I just mentioned. Maybe 2.5 pound? I'm gonna grab my postal scale for my dad's so I can weigh it. Seems to me it'd be perfect for a small axe to carry along to bang wedges, etc. What would be the recommended length for that?
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated, I think I may have found myself a new hobby



No ash handles in your area?

Thats all thats here. Not that they look nice. Maybe 1 out of 10 is a winner.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## muad

U&A said:


> No ash handles in your area?
> 
> Thats all thats here. Not that they look nice. Maybe 1 out of 10 is a winner.
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]



Not that I found yet, there's an Amish/Mennonite store in town that I'm gonna check. They carry bulk flour, spices, and all kinds of stuff. Going to see if they carry any, or ask if they can get them. I love Ash, hence the reason I would love to have some handles made from it. I know it's not the prettiest, but it would just be cool to have some axes hung on Ash. Those ones I would probably flame treat them and then oil


----------



## svk

muad said:


> Howdy all. I was blessed by @Woodslasher with some gorgeous old axes and axe heads. I want to play with "restoring" and hanging, and am wondering where y'all get your handles?
> 
> Rural King has Links brand USA Hickory handles, which I picked up a 36" single bit handle this evening. Wasn't super impressed with the selection, and so many were warped. I was able to get one that looks pretty decent, is mostly straight, however when they cut the slot up top it's not even, which frustrated me. I'm still gonna use it as a learning peace, just have to figure out what I'm gonna hang on it.
> 
> Would love to find some Ohio/Michigan Ash handles to start with. Also, are there any guides or books y'all recommend for choosing the right type of handle or length? One of the axes he gave me I think has a 28 inch handle, I believe it is a Kelly woodslasher head at 3 or 3.5lbs? The sucker splits awesome! I have another Unmarked head he gave me that needs hung which looks smaller and lighter than the one I just mentioned. Maybe 2.5 pound? I'm gonna grab my postal scale for my dad's so I can weigh it. Seems to me it'd be perfect for a small axe to carry along to bang wedges, etc. What would be the recommended length for that?
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated, I think I may have found myself a new hobby


I used to say House Handle but their quality has gone to the birds in the last 18 months.


----------



## cookies

I have purchased a few amish made handles off ebay with decent results, they come uncoated..linseed oil works great on them
The local stores sell "truper" brand handles made in mexico of hickory that come lacquered, None of them are ever straight and the rings are too far apart


----------



## Woodslasher

muad said:


> Howdy all. I was blessed by @Woodslasher with some gorgeous old axes and axe heads. I want to play with "restoring" and hanging, and am wondering where y'all get your handles?
> 
> Rural King has Links brand USA Hickory handles, which I picked up a 36" single bit handle this evening. Wasn't super impressed with the selection, and so many were warped. I was able to get one that looks pretty decent, is mostly straight, however when they cut the slot up top it's not even, which frustrated me. I'm still gonna use it as a learning peace, just have to figure out what I'm gonna hang on it.
> 
> Would love to find some Ohio/Michigan Ash handles to start with. Also, are there any guides or books y'all recommend for choosing the right type of handle or length? One of the axes he gave me I think has a 28 inch handle, I believe it is a Kelly woodslasher head at 3 or 3.5lbs? The sucker splits awesome! I have another Unmarked head he gave me that needs hung which looks smaller and lighter than the one I just mentioned. Maybe 2.5 pound? I'm gonna grab my postal scale for my dad's so I can weigh it. Seems to me it'd be perfect for a small axe to carry along to bang wedges, etc. What would be the recommended length for that?
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated, I think I may have found myself a new hobby


Now this I can help with! Beaver Tooth Handles has done me well in the past when I got a few broad axe hafts from them. Their handle selection, quality, and pricing, including shipping, is VERY good in my book. For an axe "manual" try looking up "an axe to grind" on Youtube. There'll be a video from the forest service with everything you need to know. The smaller head is a 3 or 3.5 lb Plumb (it says Plumb VERY VERY faintly) and a 28 inch "miners axe" handle is the way to go. The one head you think is on a 28 is a 3.5lber on the original 36 inch haft, but I seated the head as low as I could so it's more like a 32 inch haft now. I was going to do the same thing on the other red head to negate the (non-structural) crack. If you need further help, go to Bladeforums.com under the axe hatchet and tomahawk section and read the posts from members Yankee Josh, Muleman77, Square_Peg, and Cityofthesouth. Those men are experts at hafting axes and are far more skilled than I. Finally, a good rule of thumb for haft lengths is 2-3lbs = 28 inch haft, 3-5lbs = 32 or 36 inch haft.


----------



## muad

Woodslasher said:


> Now this I can help with! Beaver Tooth Handles has done me well in the past when I got a few broad axe hafts from them. Their handle selection, quality, and pricing, including shipping, is VERY good in my book. For an axe "manual" try looking up "an axe to grind" on Youtube. There'll be a video from the forest service with everything you need to know. The smaller head is a 3 or 3.5 lb Plumb (it says Plumb VERY VERY faintly) and a 28 inch "miners axe" handle is the way to go. The one head you think is on a 28 is a 3.5lber on the original 36 inch haft, but I seated the head as low as I could so it's more like a 32 inch haft now. I was going to do the same thing on the other red head to negate the (non-structural) crack. If you need further help, go to Bladeforums.com under the axe hatchet and tomahawk section and read the posts from members Yankee Josh, Muleman77, Square_Peg, and Cityofthesouth. Those men are experts at hafting axes and are far more skilled than I. Finally, a good rule of thumb for haft lengths is 2-3lbs = 28 inch haft, 3-5lbs = 32 or 36 inch haft.



Thanks for the added info brother, and for the axes!!! 

The one I was splitting with today has a half red head on it, and I was blown away at how well it did. Compared to my Fiskar's x27, it beats it hands down. I was splitting ash, sugar maple, and even some apple with ease. 

I love it!


----------



## LondonNeil

Buckin'used to use Beaver tooth but now swears by Killinger handles, he's another guy on YouTube.
I can't comment as they don't ship outside US.

Handle length and shape is personal but generally bigger heads get longer handles and I finally found a believable explanation for straight Vs curved handles recently. It was a guy that makes handles for an axe coming company. Think I posted the link above, about a month ago.


----------



## muad

LondonNeil said:


> Buckin'used to use Beaver tooth but now swears by Killinger handles, he's another guy on YouTube.
> I can't comment as they don't ship outside US.
> 
> Handle length and shape is personal but generally bigger heads get longer handles and I finally found a believable explanation for straight Vs curved handles recently. It was a guy that makes handles for an axe coming company. Think I posted the link above, about a month ago.



Buckin's videos are what inspired me to want to really start doing this. I've always wanted to, but watching him, and then of course being blessed with some really cool axes, pushed me over the edge. LOL

Thanks for the input in handle makers. I have beavertooth saved, and now I'll check out Killinger.


----------



## muad

@LondonNeil I looked for your post on straight handles and didn't see it. 

Do you care to share it again. I'm trying to learn as much as possible


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> Buckin'used to use Beaver tooth but now swears by Killinger handles, he's another guy on YouTube.
> I can't comment as they don't ship outside US.
> 
> Handle length and shape is personal but generally bigger heads get longer handles and I finally found a believable explanation for straight Vs curved handles recently. It was a guy that makes handles for an axe coming company. Think I posted the link above, about a month ago.


I love Buckin and don’t want to say a bad word about him but I believe he got a really good deal buying this latest brand in bulk so that may have something to do with his change of allegiance.


----------



## LondonNeil

He does have a lot of handles knocking about! And a lot of heads



muad said:


> @LondonNeil I looked for your post on straight handles and didn't see it.
> 
> Do you care to share it again. I'm trying to learn as much as possible



Its there, 30 October


----------



## muad

@Woodslasher, I watched that Forest Service series last night. Wow, some amazing info there. Thanks for the recommendation. Seeing that makes me feel like I can actually do this. LOL. 

Hoping to order some handles tomorrow, then get to hanging once they arrive. I also called my FIL who loves in SE Ohio (aka Amish country), and he's going to check with some of his Amish friends. 

I need to get some decent files ordered also.


----------



## cookies

yea your going to need a 4 way rasp and a file card if your fitting heads to handles


----------



## LondonNeil

I use a Shinto rasp and a spoke shave


----------



## muad

Well, I ruined my first handle today. I may be able to use it for a head that has a smaller eye, but my first attempt at hanging was a failure. 

I'm not totally bummed, as I learned a few things today. For one, the Link handle I got from Rural King was junk to begin with. The kerf was off center and the cut was at an angle. But, I took too much off the shoulder as I was trying to bring the head down as far as possible in order to have enough material to fill the eye. Another issue with the handle was the top of the eye wood was much smaller than towards the shoulder, so there was a huge gap at the back and front of the eye. Oh. and I split a small piece off the end when hanging, as I was using a 2.5 metal sledge. I think I'll get a nice plastic mallet instead. I could have saved it, and it would have been a good reminder. 

Oh well, I've learned that I need to take the heads with me to help choose a better handle. Going to see what Ace has this evening. I'm afraid to order any online, in case the eye wood is too small...


----------



## LondonNeil

A kerf off centre and a bit angled is not something that affects the hang or strength.
It's also possible to use the wedge to fill a bit of a gap at the front of the eye. You can shape a packer for the back too. OR you can try cross wedging. If cross wedging drill a hole at the bottom of the cross-kerf, to reduce the risk of splitting down the handle.

Taking too much off the shoulder..... Bummer.


----------



## muad

LondonNeil said:


> A kerf off centre and a bit angled is not something that affects the hang or strength.
> It's also possible to use the wedge to fill a bit of a gap at the front of the eye. You can shape a packer for the back too. OR you can try cross wedging. If cross wedging drill a hole at the bottom of the cross-kerf, to reduce the risk of splitting down the handle.
> 
> Taking too much off the shoulder..... Bummer.



Thanks for the tips. I'm almost thinking about ordering some blanks to play around with, but I need some tooling first  I mean, I can do it all by hand, but a nice belt sander and bandsaw sure would make life easier. 

I took both heads that I'm working on to Rural King, and I actually found a really nice handle for this 3.5LB Plumb single bit head I got form Woodslasher. It was off in a barrel where it looked like they were throwing the messed up ones that fell off the display, as it was missing it's wedge and the stupid staple they put in the foot to hang them on the display with. Wood grain is in the right direction, and it's nice and straight. It looks like I won't have to do too much to get a nice snug fit in the eye, so I'm excited to get hanging. I also picked up a Stanley "Flat File" style rasp, and of course I already have a 4-in-one unit. I forgot to grab some boiled linseed oil. 

Thanks again!


----------



## LondonNeil

Oh and put a really good chamfer on the bottom of the handle before you hit it with a hammer. It should stop you splitting a chunk off.

Learning is part of the fun. Although it does smart when something goes wrong!

Talking of making your own blanks, I might have a go with some of the Oak I picked up Friday as there are several lengths of large diameter limb wood which may be straight and knot free. I may have a go at free hand chainsaw milling a couple of rough blanks and set them aside to dry. Oak isn't great as handle material.... We normally have ash, and sometimes beech, but might try. Now am I right in thinking if I go small with the blank its more likely to warp as it dries but go big and it's more likely to crack? Oh well, worst case I make some firewood.


----------



## cookies

thats why I stick with the 4 in 1 rasp, the larger single versions remove too much too fast for me, a sheet of 80 grit sandpaper is helpful, a chopping block and concrete pad to fit the head is also useful as well as a 2lb brass hammer. I also like to recut the kerf a little wider so i can fit the head tighter and still wedge it easily.


----------



## muad

I appreciate the input gents. I agree @LondonNeil, while it sucks that I messed up, I did learn a lot today. And, who's to say I don't find a head for that stick later down the road. 

@cookies I appreciate the insight. I'm hoping to get this next handle fit better. It looks like a much closer fit right off, so I'm thinking this time it'll go smoother. The handle is Hickory, and is quite nice looking. I'm torn on whether or not to burn it a little as well, before oiling. We shall see, I think it looks nice enough as is that just some oil will do it well. 

The wedges they provide a poplar I believe. I might stain it first, to give it a bit of color transition. That, or I'll order some cherry or walnut wedges (or some other darker colored wood). If I can get a bandsaw and belt sander, I think I'll start making my own wedges and maybe handles from trees here on my property. I'm sure I have a decent ash or two back there still that have some decent wood I can get sawn for blanks. 

Anyhow, thanks again everyone. I hope y'all have a great night!


----------



## Woodslasher

@Philbert‘s post about wedge maintenance made me think of another tool that needs maintenance, the wedge-whacker. In my case, my favorite whacker is a Collins construction axe on a 26? Inch home made big-leaf maple haft. It came to me with what appeared to be an original 26ish inch haft that rotted and broke while I was using it. I whipped up a new haft out of a maple blank and stained it with rusty vinegar (a leftover from de-rusting other tools). Recently I had to re-seat it which is why it has the white patches. Anyways, when I took it out a few days ago I noticed the edge was wrecked. This afternoon I remembered that and brought it down for a tune up. I cleaned up the edge and removed most of the chips, and also filed off some poll mushrooming from the p.o.


----------



## rarefish383

I'll have to try the rusty vinegar, I like that color.


----------



## muad

Woodslasher said:


> @Philbert‘s post about wedge maintenance made me think of another tool that needs maintenance, the wedge-whacker. In my case, my favorite whacker is a Collins construction axe on a 26? Inch home made big-leaf maple haft. It came to me with what appeared to be an original 26ish inch haft that rotted and broke while I was using it. I whipped up a new haft out of a maple blank and stained it with rusty vinegar (a leftover from de-rusting other tools). Recently I had to re-seat it which is why it has the white patches. Anyways, when I took it out a few days ago I noticed the edge was wrecked. This afternoon I remembered that and brought it down for a tune up. I cleaned up the edge and removed most of the chips, and also filed off some poll mushrooming from the p.o.
> View attachment 874072
> View attachment 874073
> View attachment 874077
> View attachment 874074
> View attachment 874076
> View attachment 874079
> View attachment 874081
> View attachment 874083
> View attachment 874086
> View attachment 874088



Looks good brother, I agree the rusty vinegar did great


----------



## U&A

muad said:


> @Woodslasher, I watched that Forest Service series last night. Wow, some amazing info there. Thanks for the recommendation. Seeing that makes me feel like I can actually do this. LOL.
> 
> Hoping to order some handles tomorrow, then get to hanging once they arrive. I also called my FIL who loves in SE Ohio (aka Amish country), and he's going to check with some of his Amish friends.
> 
> I need to get some decent files ordered also.



Iv always been afraid to order handles. I guess ill look int this. 


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## DSW

Last winter I spent quite a few nights tinkering on axes listening to bluegrass and country. It was fun and the axes got used as well.

I didn't buy one handle and I broke a lot of the "rules" but I learned what worked and what didn't, for me at least. Use whatever wood and tools you have, if you're interested in it you'll come up with something. I still have a walnut handle on one, it's certainly not the best choice and I knew it wouldn't be, but it didn't randomly explode either. 

I had it and I like how it looks.


----------



## cookies

would it be tabu to cut the adez side off a pulaski axe to use it for splitting/chopping ? It's a mint condition true temper i assume made in the 50's with clear stamp marks. Kinda figured I should ask before not after lopping it off.


----------



## Woodslasher

cookies said:


> Would it be taboo to cut the adze side off a pulaski axe to use it for splitting/chopping ? It's a mint condition True Temper that I assume was made in the 50's with clear stamp marks. Kinda figured I should ask before not after lopping it off.


Yes, it would be. If you need a single bit axe that badly, gimme a few days to get home and I’ll see if I have a spare one I could send you.


----------



## muad

Well, I finally did it! I successfully hung an axe, and it turned out decent! Will get pics tomorrow, ran out of light. Looking for feedback from you all, and maybe some tips on steering the bit.

While the head looks to be sitting good on the handle, the bit isn't lined up with the handle perfectly square. I tried removing some material from the backside of the opposite side to kind of steer it where I wanted it, which helped a little but not enough. Overall I'm still very satisfied, and it splits great!! 

I ruined the included poplar wedge, so I had to make one from some english walnut I have (I made blanks for knife/gun scales years back), and it actually tuned out good considering all I have are some hand tools. 

Stay tuned


----------



## svk

cookies said:


> would it be tabu to cut the adez side off a pulaski axe to use it for splitting/chopping ? It's a mint condition true temper i assume made in the 50's with clear stamp marks. Kinda figured I should ask before not after lopping it off.


I wouldn’t hesitate to cut a true temper. But it looks like you’ve got an offer for a free head to preserve that one.


----------



## cookies

look down the length of the handle toward the bit for twist, we are our own worst critic  I honestly bought that axe head to cut the adez off but its in such perfect shape I find myself unable to do it. It came from the daughter of a deceased forester who was clearing out his horde of axe heads, she had 3 of these all brand new...it still has the factory edge, the marks are from my vice. I would be grateful for a old useable bit, old heads are by far the best steel


----------



## Woodslasher

cookies said:


> look down the length of the handle toward the bit for twist, we are our own worst critic  I honestly bought that axe head to cut the adze off but its in such perfect shape I find myself unable to do it. It came from the daughter of a deceased forester who was clearing out his horde of axe heads, she had 3 of these all brand new...it still has the factory edge, the marks are from my vice. I would be grateful for a old useable bit, old heads are by far the best steel.


I’ll go through my 5 gallon buckets of heads and my 55 gallon drum of hafted axes and see if I can’t come up with a nice vintage one. I had about 80 edged tools, + or - 5, and now I’m down to 50-60 and whittling it down every chance I get. After narrowly avoiding a similar scenario, I’ve decided to minimize and it’s easier to get rid of something if someone “needs” it.


----------



## LondonNeil

Cookies, it's yours so do as you wish. It's a nice tool and part of me says don't cut it, but it's not super valuable or rare so it's not a big thing to modify it. I'd think about modifying it to an axeroon. Having a pick on t the back could be very useful


----------



## LondonNeil

Muad, I find it's just patience, check regularly and often. Looking down the edge and checking it aligns with the handle is easiest imv


----------



## muad

As promised. My first hang. Critique away please! 

Not the best pics, but it's what I could do quick before the wife yelled that pancakes were ready


----------



## LondonNeil

Looks good to me muad. I see nothing wrong with that!
Hows the fit around the base of the eye? And the spread of the top of the handle?


----------



## cookies

looks good enough to use to me!, I like to trim the handle closer to the head then put wood glue around the base and across the top to help seal it from moisture. Time to work on that edge and put it to work for you. Anyone else like a lightly rough sanded handle with a little pine tar or even sap lightly applied for extra grip?


----------



## muad

LondonNeil said:


> Looks good to me muad. I see nothing wrong with that!
> Hows the fit around the base of the eye? And the spread of the top of the handle?



Thanks!! 


I think it's decent, with minimal gaps. The spread/mushroom effect at the top was good, however I sanded it so it doesn't look as mushroomed as it was when I trimmed/sanded it. 

I need to sand the handle some more, and then apply more BLO. 

@cookies I left the grip at the bottom more rough for a better grip. I want the shaft to be as smooth as possible though, which could use a little more work. 

After doing this, I need some more tools and I'm thinking of using blanks from now on to better fit the heads. This handle was better than the last, but still not perfect. The kerf was cut way too deep, etc.


----------



## LondonNeil

That looks excellent! I'd be proud of that now and I've done half a dozen now


----------



## muad

LondonNeil said:


> That looks excellent! I'd be proud of that now and I've done half a dozen now



Thanks for the kudos. Makes me feel good, and proud of the job I did. Still a long ways to go, but I have a few I want to hang. Next up is a True Temper single bit with the phantom bevels.


----------



## Woodslasher

muad said:


> As promised. My first hang. Critique away please!
> 
> Not the best pics, but it's what I could do quick before the wife yelled that pancakes were ready
> 
> View attachment 875946
> View attachment 875947
> View attachment 875949
> View attachment 875950
> View attachment 875951


Looks nice! I don't see anything wrong with the . If it were mine I'd try making the area below the poll look a little more concave like the haft shown below (not my work, fyi). All in all, I'd say that's an awesome first hang!


----------



## Haywire

Had to rehang my wedge knocker. Original handle snapped. Snow & Nealley Hudson Bay. Now I've just got to redo my signature wood burning design. Haha


----------



## Esq1997

Good evening-

Yesterday I picked up a 3.5 pound Plumb single bit at an antiques store for $10.00. Had a lot of rust so I soaked it in a vinegar bath for 20 hours. The rust is mostly gone and it still retains some patina. Was wondering if anyone could provide any thoughts on its age and pattern. It looks like a Michigan pattern, but I’m not sure.

This is my first full restoration attempt so any comments on the axe head’s condition would also be appreciated. Should I hit it again with a wire brush, more time in the vinegar bath? I don’t have a wire wheel or bench grinder, so this will be hand tools only. Any thoughts would help.

John


----------



## muad

Haywire said:


> Had to rehang my wedge knocker. Original handle snapped. Snow & Nealley Hudson Bay. Now I've just got to redo my signature wood burning design. Haha
> 
> View attachment 876051


 
I love that burn design, nice axe too!


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## svk

Esq1997 said:


> Good evening-
> 
> Yesterday I picked up a 3.5 pound Plumb single bit at an antiques store for $10.00. Had a lot of rust so I soaked it in a vinegar bath for 20 hours. The rust is mostly gone and it still retains some patina. Was wondering if anyone could provide any thoughts on its age and pattern. It looks like a Michigan pattern, but I’m not sure.
> 
> This is my first full restoration attempt so any comments on the axe head’s condition would also be appreciated. Should I hit it again with a wire brush, more time in the vinegar bath? I don’t have a wire wheel or bench grinder, so this will be hand tools only. Any thoughts would help.
> 
> JohnView attachment 876058
> View attachment 876059


I’d just get started hanging it. It’s got character and once you hang it and get after that cutting edge, it will look real nice.


----------



## svk

muad said:


> Thanks!!
> 
> 
> I think it's decent, with minimal gaps. The spread/mushroom effect at the top was good, however I sanded it so it doesn't look as mushroomed as it was when I trimmed/sanded it.
> 
> I need to sand the handle some more, and then apply more BLO.
> 
> @cookies I left the grip at the bottom more rough for a better grip. I want the shaft to be as smooth as possible though, which could use a little more work.
> 
> After doing this, I need some more tools and I'm thinking of using blanks from now on to better fit the heads. This handle was better than the last, but still not perfect. The kerf was cut way too deep, etc.
> 
> View attachment 875970
> View attachment 875971
> View attachment 875973
> View attachment 875974


Looks good


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## Esq1997

Thanks for the response. I was worried that it was too corroded. Turns out what I thought was rust was actually patina. I’ve got to find a haft, which could be a challenge here in Massachusetts. Any suggestions on haft length? Oh, what pattern do you think this is?


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## muad

Looks like a Dayton to me, but I'm no expert.


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## Drptrch

cookies said:


> would it be tabu to cut the adez side off a pulaski axe to use it for splitting/chopping ? It's a mint condition true temper i assume made in the 50's with clear stamp marks. Kinda figured I should ask before not after lopping it off.





cookies said:


> would it be tabu to cut the adez side off a pulaski axe to use it for splitting/chopping ? It's a mint condition true temper i assume made in the 50's with clear stamp marks. Kinda figured I should ask before not after lopping it off.





cookies said:


> would it be tabu to cut the adez side off a pulaski axe to use it for splitting/chopping ? It's a mint condition true temper i assume made in the 50's with clear stamp marks. Kinda figured I should ask before not after lopping it off.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## svk

Esq1997 said:


> Thanks for the response. I was worried that it was too corroded. Turns out what I thought was rust was actually patina. I’ve got to find a haft, which could be a challenge here in Massachusetts. Any suggestions on haft length? Oh, what pattern do you think this is?


How large of a head is that? I like 28-32" handles myself.


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## Esq1997

It's 7" with a 4 5/8" single bit.

John


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## svk

Those lengths should do well with that.


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## Esq1997

Thank you for all of your responses.


----------



## Vibes

svk said:


> I see an axe listed locally with “Bell Systems” stamped in it. Would this be from Bell telephone for linemen?
> 
> Edit: Did some more looking and yes this is the case.


Yeah that would be Bell telephone. I have several Bell system tools. Stick rule Dykes and a pair of needle nose pliers. That axe is quite a find.


----------



## Esq1997




----------



## Esq1997

Here are some updated photos of my vintage plumb. Used a file. Will have to obtain some stones for honing.


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## cookies

without a haft I like to use a large whetstone to set the edge after filing


----------



## U&A

muad said:


> Well, I finally did it! I successfully hung an axe, and it turned out decent! Will get pics tomorrow, ran out of light. Looking for feedback from you all, and maybe some tips on steering the bit.
> 
> While the head looks to be sitting good on the handle, the bit isn't lined up with the handle perfectly square. I tried removing some material from the backside of the opposite side to kind of steer it where I wanted it, which helped a little but not enough. Overall I'm still very satisfied, and it splits great!!
> 
> I ruined the included poplar wedge, so I had to make one from some english walnut I have (I made blanks for knife/gun scales years back), and it actually tuned out good considering all I have are some hand tools.
> 
> Stay tuned



AWSOME!!

The one thing i have learned that is super important (obviously there are lots of important things to do right) is making the wood wedge the proper length and thickness so it drives down far enough and still provides good pressure at the top.



Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

muad said:


> As promised. My first hang. Critique away please!
> 
> Not the best pics, but it's what I could do quick before the wife yelled that pancakes were ready
> 
> View attachment 875946
> View attachment 875947
> View attachment 875949
> View attachment 875950
> View attachment 875951



Looks real nice!!


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## Esq1997

This is my very first restoration, so I was very hesitant to take a file to the axe. I think it looks okay, but I will need some stones for finishing. As for a haft, I think that my best option is House Handle. I’ll be careful with the wedge. Hoping they will send one that is usable. 
Any thoughts on my file work? Does it need additional filing, if you can tell from the pics? Was trying to be careful not to change the dimensions/profile of the bit.


----------



## bigbadbob

May have posted B4, my collection, mostly from flea markets and yard sales. And my favorite,, Walters Black diamond, also had a Isaiah blood axe but ebayed it.


----------



## U&A

bigbadbob said:


> May have posted B4, my collection, mostly from flea markets and yard sales. And my favorite,, Walters Black diamond, also had a Isaiah blood axe but ebayed it. View attachment 878007
> View attachment 878008
> View attachment 878009
> View attachment 878010



I want a cross cut. Id like to try it for fun.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## bigbadbob

Middle one is a near new Simons Royal Chinook,, supposed to be a keeper/holy grail, one above is the same worn out.
Got a few more ferreted away. Ice saw was hard to find. I have the saw sets for those as well,, for setting the teeth angle


----------



## muad

Worked on the plumb more today. I tried burning the handle, which really brought out the beauty of the handle. I also worked on the head (got it hair popping sharp, cleaned up the pole, sanded the sides of the bit with 320 grit). I'm debating on painting 2/3 of the head red; which is what it looks like it was originally. Also cut the handle flush on top of the head, as I had left it a little proud previously. 

Still needs a few more coats of linseed oil on the handle. 

Sorry for the sideways photos... Stupid iphone...


----------



## Esq1997

Looks great! Hope my Plumb comes out half as nice.


----------



## muad

Esq1997 said:


> Looks great! Hope my Plumb comes out half as nice.



Thanks!! I'm really happy with it.


----------



## cookies

Looks ready to get used! beware of oiling it too much, it only needs a little applied then temperature changes cause the wood to draw it in deep and you can apply again...too much and your grip will suffer


----------



## muad

cookies said:


> Looks ready to get used! beware of oiling it too much, it only needs a little applied then temperature changes cause the wood to draw it in deep and you can apply again...too much and your grip will suffer



Thanks for the tips.


----------



## Woodslasher

muad said:


> Worked on the plumb more today. I tried burning the handle, which really brought out the beauty of the handle. I also worked on the head (got it hair popping sharp, cleaned up the pole, sanded the sides of the bit with 320 grit). I'm debating on painting 2/3 of the head red; which is what it looks like it was originally. Also cut the handle flush on top of the head, as I had left it a little proud previously.
> 
> Still needs a few more coats of linseed oil on the handle.
> 
> Sorry for the sideways photos... Stupid iphone...
> 
> View attachment 878076
> View attachment 878077
> View attachment 878078
> View attachment 878079
> View attachment 878080


Nice! Looks a whole lot better than when I got it!


----------



## Esq1997

Most recent acquisition. Craigslist for $40.00. No name visible. Any thoughts? Scraped and sanded haft. One coat of BLO so far. Will need some file work on the bits.


----------



## Esq1997

Axehead shows a trace of blue paint.


----------



## muad

Looks like a True Temper Kelly Perfect Double Bit to me. 

But, I know many makers used those phantom bevels. 

Nice score!!! 

Will defer to more knowledgable posters.


----------



## Esq1997

It’s a little over 10” long with 5” bits.


----------



## muad

For those working on hafting, what vise are you running? I'm looking at a couple vintage Colombians wood working vises in ebay, mainly because they were made in Cleveland Ohio. I'd kind a like to find an older unit, versus something newer made. Although Milwaukee tools makes a nice one, but they're pricey.


----------



## Woodslasher

muad said:


> For those working on hafting, what vise are you running? I'm looking at a couple vintage Colombians wood working vises in ebay, mainly because they were made in Cleveland Ohio. I'd kind a like to find an older unit, versus something newer made. Although Milwaukee tools makes a nice one, but they're pricey.


I just use a bench vise with smooth jaws, or I'll hold one end of the haft and brace the other end of the haft against my leg, a log, my vise, etc.


----------



## Esq1997

Another find. Any idea it’s age? Only imprint is True Temper Flint Edge


----------



## Woodslasher

I’d say 60’s or 70’s.


----------



## Esq1997

U&A said:


> AWSOME!!
> 
> The one thing i have learned that is super important (obviously there are lots of important things to do right) is making the wood wedge the proper length and thickness so it drives down far enough and still provides good pressure at the top.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM





Woodslasher said:


> I’d say 60’s or 70’s.


Were they still using good steel/manufacturing processes? The patina was such that I thought it might have been older.


----------



## Woodslasher

Yes, it's still a very good axe with very good steel.


----------



## gumneck

I used to be rough on axe handles as a teenager my dad says.....sadly, I still am. Cracked my old friends axe I got after buying his garage contents after his passing and needed another handle for it. The head is a WATCO 43, its a large headed rascal. Maybe the fourth pic gives a ref to the larger size as the W43 is on the bottom. The painted one in the 5th pic is a True Temper I did last winter.


----------



## gumneck

Maybe these pics are better....


----------



## muad

Nice job!! 

Love the Jersey style True Temper heads. I want to snag one at some point, but they seem to fetch a pretty penny.


----------



## gumneck

Just for giggles, I had to put another handle on the bush hook a while back. Original handle on it was an axe handle.....yep, I destroyed it too. Added some fancy red paint so that people and animals can get out of the way cuz apparently I just destroy handles.


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## svk

Cool. I have a brush axe just like that but it’s still wearing its original handle. My son reclaimed several hundred yards of old road with it a few years back.


----------



## cookies

Thank you to @Woodslasher for donating a good single bit to save the mint true temper from the hacksaw, I'm putting up a couple pictures of it below. I had to file a new edge then stone it after fedex blunted it then I sanded the haft with 80 grit to remove the grain ridges but I left the use scratches/character then sealed it using boiled linseed oil with pine lampblack mixed in to get rid of the bright new handle look. I think it turned out pretty good and my trick made the handle appear older. thanks again woodslasher!


----------



## Esq1997

Does anyone know what the maker of this axe is? Received it as part of a blind grab bag promotion by well known seller. It’s about 6.5 inches long with a 4 inch bit.


----------



## cookies

looks like a valley axe


----------



## Esq1997

Any idea the pattern? Trying to make out what the sticker says and estimate age.


----------



## muad

Looks like a Kelly "Sunken Blade" sticker: 





__





Kelly Axe Mfg. Co.






www.yesteryearstools.com





ETA: Never mind, upon closer inspection it doesn't.


----------



## Drptrch

Original or re-worked ??














VINTAGE/ANTIQUE TRUE TEMPER KELLY? ANNIVERSARY DOUBLE BIT AXE, W/PHANTOM BEVELS | eBay


"ANNIVERSARY" DOUBLE BIT AXE HEAD WITH PHANTOM BEVELS. It's also stamped 3 2 on the reverse side (see pic #8 & #12). Axe head has scrapes, scratches and pitting on both sides of the head, that would be common for a used wood working tool.



www.ebay.com






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## svk

Lol


----------



## svk

Appears to be your run of the mill 30 dollar Collins axe with some paint on it. A neat gift maybe but that’s quite a markup.


----------



## rarefish383

muad said:


> Nice job!!
> 
> Love the Jersey style True Temper heads. I want to snag one at some point, but they seem to fetch a pretty penny.


Must be a regional thing. In MD every other single seems to be a Jersey. When live auctions start back up I'll grab one for you. Now I only keep them if they have nice graphics on them, or are a Plumb or Collins. Only thing is, if it has a nice handle on it, it will cost a little more to ship. I'm not like those ebay sellers that cut every handle off.


----------



## rarefish383

Esq1997 said:


> Looks great! Hope my Plumb comes out half as nice.


I have a little boys ax that I found somewhere. It was rusted so bad I was going to throw it in the scrap metal bucket. I'm not real big on polishing axes to use as shaving mirrors. But, as I flipped it around I could still see Plumb on it. So, I got a couple flap disc's for my die grinder and went at it. I ground 8 ounces off it. I dug through my old broken handles and found a contour I liked. Then went out to my firewood pile and found a piece of White Ash with a good tight grain. Ran it through the table saw a couple times to get it square, traced the old handle pattern on it, and took the four in hand rasp to it. Was much easier than I thought it would be. Still not really liking the polished look, and not wanting to blue it, I Browned it. Made a Black Walnut wedge to stand out against the White Ash. It turned out well. It's my throwing ax. SVK took a few throws with it when he was passing through. Another thing that is just ME, I don't like the handle standing real proud (sticking out) of the eye. Old American axes didn't do that. I seems to be an European thing. I always felt it was a way to hang an ax with out putting the effort in it to make it tight. Just leave some sticking out and mushroom it to make it tight. Again, that's just me.


----------



## rarefish383

It's hard to see, but, none of these handles are sitting proud to the eye. When I hang an ax, I like it to look like the original.


----------



## Drptrch

A little rehang and furb










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rarefish383

Good news times two.

First I hadn't seen Multifaceted post in a while so I gave him a ring. He's doing fine. Got promoted to production manager and is putting in 12-14 hour days, with about an hour commute.

Second, my cousin called and said he was digging around in his shop and found an old hardware store "Plumb Ax Display" He said it looks like it holds 6 axes. Ill post pics when I get it.


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## svk

Glad to hear, always worry about a fellow who goes silent around here.


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## abbott295

I was wondering about Clarence; like you I hadn’t seen anything from him for a while. I was thinking about him because my wife just had a knee replacement two and a half weeks ago. I think multifaceted had one done too a while ago. My wife a doing well; got the staples taken out on Tuesday 
Good to hear he is well.


----------



## rarefish383

abbott295 said:


> I was wondering about Clarence; like you I hadn’t seen anything from him for a while. I was thinking about him because my wife just had a knee replacement two and a half weeks ago. I think multifaceted had one done too a while ago. My wife a doing well; got the staples taken out on Tuesday
> Good to hear he is well.


I try to keep in touch with him, he works a few miles from my house. I took him 6 old ax and maul heads back in October. My wife's birthday is in July, and I made her a promise that I would get rid of 3 things a month till new years. I finished October and couldn't find any thing else to get rid of. Then I saw those heads behind my Cuda. Six of them had me covered for Nov and Dec. My wife has had 6 hip replacement surgeries. When she was 21 she took chemo for Hodgkin's Disease. They gave her high doses of Prednisone also. The Prednisone killed the bone in her hips. She got the first two in 86 and 87. Got 20 years out of them. Had revisions in 06 and 07. Then in 2017 the rod in her left femur started to get loose, so had that replaced. Two months ago she decided she wanted the right femur replaced before it got bad. Doc said good choice, when he took it out it was loose. I had both knees done. I retired Nov 1st 2015 and my left knee done Nov, 3rd. My retirement present to me. Two years later got the right one done. I have little to no pain, but don't have the range of motion I'd like. But, I worked on them for 15 years after I was told I need the surgery. The Doc said up front I might not get full range of motion back because I waited so long. I'm happy with them. Only advice I have is squats are your friend. Every time you brush our teeth, 10 squats, get your socks out of the dresser, 10 squats. You don't have to push till you are going to pass out. Just go deep enough that you feel it, and then a touch more. Every day try to go a little more. It's like compound interest, a little over a long time, makes a big difference. My first knee, they stapled it. My second knee they glued it. First one I was ona walker for several weeks. Second one I was walking with a cane the same day. Two different Doctors, a world of difference.


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## abbott295

Lots of stories from lots of people about joint replacements; some go better than others. My wife is getting therapy and hears about different results from replacements by the same doctor. There are more variables than just the doctor. She also has a bad shoulder and using the walker bothers it. She would rather lean on me. That's what we're there for. A cane probably won't work for her either. So she is just getting better quicker out of necessity. That, and she's tuff. 

My dad had a knee replaced in his eighties with quick recovery, little pain, little pain killers. He had had trouble with that knee since an injury as a young man on the farm. His father had a hip replacement, also in his eighties, it must have been in the '70s. Years later he said he didn't think he had more movement, but didn't have the pain. He wanted to do the other one when he was about 90 but they wouldn't do it bcause they said his circulation wasn't good enough.


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## svk

My grandpa had three knee replacements and a hip. Ironically the newer knee failed first and needed to be replaced.


----------



## Esq1997

Looking for some thoughts on axe handle length. I was a able to secure a couple of 28" handles from Whiskey River recently thinking I'd use one for my vintage 3.2/ 3.3 lb. single bit plumb axehead. The handle will fit the eye with some minor filing/sanding. I've been reading, however, that some would say that a 3.2 /3.3 lb. head is too large for a 28" handle. The axehead is 6 7/8" long with a 4" single bit. I have a 32" handle on the way too, but am in a quandary as to which size handle would be more appropriate. I know that handle size is often a preference. Just wondering what others here would suggest.


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## svk

That doesn’t sound too far out of sorts for a 28”. Maybe mock it up and post a pic here?


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## Esq1997




----------



## Esq1997

Here are a couple of pics of my True Temper Flint Edge mocked up with a 28" straight handle.


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## Esq1997

3 lb. Flint Edge with 28” handle.


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## Woodslasher

I've seen guys run a 4lb head on a 28 with no problems. You're fine, if you like it, do it.


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## svk

That looks fine, or if you want 32" would work well too.


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## LondonNeil

Exactly, do what you feel works for you. Try something different next time. There are no rules 

I've got a 3 and a half or 3/4er lb Jersey on a 28" and it works well.


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## Esq1997

Thank you for all of the helpful replies. Just finished hanging a 2 lb. Norlund on a 22” haft. Screwed up trimming the wedge - the coping saw blade twisted some and the cut was crooked. I ended up cutting it flush with the axe head.


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## svk

That’s perfect.


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## Esq1997

It’s the first axe I’ve ever hung. Was quite a process for me.


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## Esq1997




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## rarefish383

Esq1997 said:


> Thank you for all of the helpful replies. Just finished hanging a 2 lb. Norlund on a 22” haft. Screwed up trimming the wedge - the coping saw blade twisted some and the cut was crooked. I ended up cutting it flush with the axe head.View attachment 888377


That thing looks beautiful! Never apologize for cutting the handle flush to the eye. I've never bought into leaving the handle 1\4 inch proud to the eye. American axes were always cut flush. Here's a small Norlund on the original handle. Then my new Plumb display rack with a never used Collins Legitimus in the back, you can read "Genuine Collins Hickory" on the handle, then an American Beauty, Keen Kutter and another Plumb in the front, all cut tight to the eye, and all original handles.


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## rarefish383

Well, I spoiled the surprise and put a pick of the new rack in an other post, so here it is again with the Plumb Cruiser that Clarence made the haft for in the front.


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## Esq1997

No I’ve gotta find a vintage boy’s/camp axe to restore. Looking for one similar to the ones used by the USFS back in the day. No luck thus far.


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## DSW

rarefish383 said:


> I hadn't seen Multifaceted post in a while so I gave him a ring. He's doing fine. Got promoted to production manager and is putting in 12-14 hour days, with about an hour commute.


Good deal. Nice work checking in on him. Hopefully he eventually has some time to brew some beer and swing some axes.


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## rarefish383

I might jus go sit in front of his garage with an empty Growler.


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## Backyard Lumberjack

heard a loud crash other day... big limb had come down... across the street. neighbor had worker in and he cut it up, trunk, too and curbed it. i went over to ck it out. 100' from my curb! lots of ez-pickens oak. couple of the larger pcs of the main limb had couple of branches needing to come off. rather than fire up my lil echo... took along when i went to get it later in day... one of my camp axes.


removed with ease.


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## Backyard Lumberjack

bought it new around around 1980 or so over at Sears. over 40 yrs old. had gotten a bit weather beaten. so few years back i sanded the handle and refinished in with some varathane. did most of my axes back then. camp and swing. handles, loose heads, etc. has a nice edge. i mostly use it to make kindling. 8" pcs of cut old cedar fence slats...


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## muad

rarefish383 said:


> Must be a regional thing. In MD every other single seems to be a Jersey. When live auctions start back up I'll grab one for you. Now I only keep them if they have nice graphics on them, or are a Plumb or Collins. Only thing is, if it has a nice handle on it, it will cost a little more to ship. I'm not like those ebay sellers that cut every handle off.



Just now seeing this! Thanks brother!


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## muad

So, haven't updated in a while. Haven't touch my axe projects in a bit. Too busy working. 

I did, however, stop into a lumber shop that specializes in various exotic woods, and offers blanks for woodworkers. Well, they had 36" Quarter sawn Ash baseball bat blanks. I bought three to make some handles. 

Just need to find some good templates for the handles.


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## DSW

Sharpen up those tools if you end up carving any of it.


----------



## muad

DSW said:


> Sharpen up those tools if you end up carving any of it.



Bandsaw FTW


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## DSW

I like a good challenge from time to time.


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## DSW

Get off my lawn.


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## Esq1997

Just hung my second axe. House Handle 32” octagon. 3.4 lb. Plumb.


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## Esq1997




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## LondonNeil

that octagon handle looks great! although it looks like it was close to a knot half way along. Hopefully its far enough down from the head it wont be a problem


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## Esq1997

Trying to decide whether to use a metal wedge?


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## DSW

That is a beauty.

Put me down for the No Metal Wedge category.



Esq1997 said:


> Trying to decide whether to use a metal wedge?


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## Esq1997

I’m looking for a single bit forest service axe to clean up and hang if anyone has one they would consider selling. No luck on the auction site :-(


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## Esq1997




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## Esq1997

Newest project. Wedge almost all the way into kerf. Little gaps in either side at top, but think the axehead is on there and pretty secure. The handle is a little proud over the axehead and mushroomed.


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## Esq1997




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## Esq1997




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## Esq1997

Trimmed a spare wedge and filled the gaps.


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## Esq1997

Not pretty, but practical?


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## muad

That handle on the plumb is gorgeous. Nice hanging. 

I haven't touched an axe in a while. Found a couple nice handles at menards, gonna use for templates for my own. Hoping to do a 32" with a 3.5LB True Temper.


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## Esq1997

Thanks. It took hours to hang that Plumb due to an utter lack of experience. Have it to my buddy. Just hung the double bit. Octagon handle from House Handles as well. Took a long time, but I think it looks pretty good. Just put first coat of BLO on the handle.


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## Esq1997

Just finished cleaning up an older Mann Forestry Service axe. Removed the head from the handle by removing two ancient metal wedges. Had to drill out the wood wedge. The handle is kind of beat up by the top, so I deepened the kerf and rehafted the head. It’s on there pretty snug with mushrooming at the top. Unfortunately, I think that this will be a wall hanger due to the condition of the handle.


----------



## Esq1997




----------



## Esq1997

Number five. A 3.5 pound flint edge on a 32” House Handle. Took too long once again to fit but it came out okay. Two coats of Watco Danish Oil - dark walnut. Kind of like the way it brings out the grain versus the natural look of BLO. Anyway, would love to hear your comments and suggestions.


----------



## rarefish383

I love the color of the wood, but I don't like half the handle sticking out the top. Just me, so don't take offense, a lot of guys like them like that. American axes were never hung like that.


----------



## rarefish383

Probably already seen this. This is how I like to hang axes.


----------



## rarefish383

Probably already seen this. This is how I like to hang axes. I tried to post the link to "An Ax to grind" the Forestry Service video. But it kept trying to load the whole 1 hour long video. Do a search for, "An ax to grind", it's good watching.


----------



## rarefish383

Now it loaded!


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## LondonNeil

There's proud and there's.....hmm. Your choice though, your axe. looks really good, really really good other wise. What do you mean 'took too long.'? It's not a race is it? No one told me I needed to get quick!


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## Esq1997

Thanks for the comments!! I left it proud (probably too proud) because I’m not very confident that the head will remain affixed to the handle. I’m still a noobee. By mushrooming the end I feel it’s more secure. Don’t want to use a metal wedge. I would cut it a little lower, but my saw is so dull it might just mess it up. Need better tools.


----------



## rarefish383

You are turning out some pretty good work, don't sweat it. It's your style, go with it, the next one will be better. I'm going to check some of my originals and see if they used cross metal wedges?


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## Esq1997

Here is my latest. A 2.25 lb. Collins on a 28” Whiskey River boy’s axe handle. Was going to leave the handle a little proud (as is my practice - for now) but the wedge split and was unusable above the top of the eye. I cut the handle flush and put a metal wedge in place. Kind of a nice camp axe with Watco danish oil finish. Cleaned up the bit with a file and my Norton stones. Convex but not shaving sharp.


----------



## Esq1997

I’m sort of disappointed with this one as the wedge split up while using the dead blow hammer forcing me to flush cut the haft. Hoping I got enough of the wedge into the kerf. The wedge was soft wood. I prefer to use harder wood for wedges.


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## GusGus2020

Got a few I’m working on - need to make or substantially modify a handle for the craftsman mini hatchet, fitting a handle for the plumb boy scout hatchet, and as a part of the find, work on handles for the old Plumb sledge and Weco(Japan) maul.


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## rarefish383

Esq1997 said:


> Here is my latest. A 2.25 lb. Collins on a 28” Whiskey River boy’s axe handle. Was going to leave the handle a little proud (as is my practice - for now) but the wedge split and was unusable above the top of the eye. I cut the handle flush and put a metal wedge in place. Kind of a nice camp axe with Watco danish oil finish. Cleaned up the bit with a file and my Norton stones. Convex but not shaving sharp.
> 
> View attachment 893807
> View attachment 893808
> View attachment 893809


I think that wedge and flush cut is Beautiful! That’s the way American axes have been hung forever. I don’t mind the proud hang on European axes, that’s the way lots of them are hung. I realy like that one


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## GusGus2020

One almost finished - just need to oil the handle up - the other one finished. Been using timber oil and happy with the results. Up until a few weeks ago I had never seen a Powerkraft or Wardmastr marked axe. Always learning something new. Both had pretty worn toes, and I adjusted the bit somewhat to compensate for it. Looks like they turned out ok, and was able to keep some of the patina intact. My recent discovery of House Handles has been a nice change from the hardware store selection.


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## Esq1997

I’ve purchased several handles from House Handles. Great service, prices and fast shipping. The only issue I’ve had is the finish around the haft’s shoulders had to be smoothed out for symmetry.


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## GusGus2020

Esq1997 said:


> I’ve purchased several handles from House Handles. Great service, prices and fast shipping. The only issue I’ve had is the finish around the haft’s shoulders had to be smoothed out for symmetry.


I’ve found the same issue - they do turn out purty, though.


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## svk

Glad to hear good things about House Handle again. Maybe they got quality control under control again? The stuff they put into my hardware store over the past couple of years was pretty poor.


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## GusGus2020

svk said:


> Glad to hear good things about House Handle again. Maybe they got quality control under control again? The stuff they put into my hardware store over the past couple of years was pretty poor.


I had initially gotten 4 handles (2 db, 2sb) and all of them looked good. Granted, I did the hand pick and octagon to get as good a grain orientation as possible, and thinned down a bit. I have another slightly bigger order arriving next week, so we’ll see if my initial luck holds.


----------



## svk

GusGus2020 said:


> I had initially gotten 4 handles (2 db, 2sb) and all of them looked good. Granted, I did the hand pick and octagon to get as good a grain orientation as possible, and thinned down a bit. I have another slightly bigger order arriving next week, so we’ll see if my initial luck holds.


Good to hear. I hope it does. Please keep us posted.


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## Esq1997

Just found this at a local antique store. Probably paid too much ($20) but it’s a Collins Legitimus with the crown and arm. It is 7” long with a 4 1/4 inch bit. Probably hang it on a 28” boys axe handle.


----------



## GusGus2020

Esq1997 said:


> Just found this at a local antique store. Probably paid too much ($20) but it’s a Collins Legitimus with the crown and arm. It is 7” long with a 4 1/4 inch bit. Probably hang it on a 28” boys axe handle.View attachment 894850


Looks like the previous owner may have had some fun with a grinding wheel - should clean up nicely with a little file work.


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## Esq1997

Yeah...Kind of a poor job by the previous owner. I’m not sure it really needs to be reprofiled, just filed and honed on stones - I hope. Any thoughts?


----------



## GusGus2020

Esq1997 said:


> Yeah...Kind of a poor job by the previous owner. I’m not sure it really needs to be reprofiled, just filed and honed on stones - I hope. Any thoughts?


Maybe it’s just a bad angle, but the toe (top) of the bit looks pretty worn down - if it were me, I’d want to file it back to get the while but more in line with itself, more like the photo attached. You may not want to go as drastic, but at least start working it towards that point.


----------



## Esq1997

I’m glad you said that. I have no idea how to do that with a hand file. I’ve been able to push and draw file to get a sharp edge, but I’ve never had to change the edge geometry like you suggest. Any helpful hints how to best do that? I do not have any power tools to use to accomplish this.


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## Esq1997

Do you just take the file and use it perpendicular to the edge to make the curve more symmetrical?


----------



## GusGus2020

Esq1997 said:


> Do you just take the file and use it perpendicular to the edge to make the curve more symmetrical?


That’s usually what I end up doing - depending on how bad it is, sometimes I’ll take a grinder with 40 or 80 grit flap disc to take some material off. Makes it a little faster, but I always monitor the heat of the bit so I don’t mess with the temper.


----------



## Esq1997




----------



## Esq1997

Any better? How much more should I go with the file?


----------



## Esq1997




----------



## Esq1997

Any better?


----------



## GusGus2020

Esq1997 said:


> Any better?


Looking quite a bit better! Completely up to you how far you want to take it right now. Looking forward to seeing it on a handle now!


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## Esq1997

Thanks so much for the advise! Handle tomorrow.


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## Esq1997




----------



## Esq1997

This is pretty much as good as I can get the profile with my tools and skills.


----------



## GusGus2020

Esq1997 said:


> This is pretty much as good as I can get the profile with my tools and skills.


I like it!


----------



## cookies

good job bringing that edge back in line and removing those huge chips


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## Esq1997

Thank you very much. Now I’m moving on to the handle.


----------



## Esq1997




----------



## rarefish383

Esq1997 said:


> View attachment 894908


That looks really nice. I'd have been afraid of messing up the grind, you did a nice job. The best part is, the PO didn't use it as a sledge hammer, that poll looks good.


----------



## Esq1997

Thanks. I’ve never had to dig into a profile like on this one. Used a file, stones and a strop. The poll is in really nice shape. Can’t wait to get it on the handle.


----------



## GusGus2020

svk said:


> Good to hear. I hope it does. Please keep us posted.


Order from House Handles came today - looks like I did pretty good this time around, too. Hard to see grain pattern on the bottom on some of them, but they look pretty good. Didn’t opt for no lacquer this time, saved a few bucks and I can do it myself. One of the handles had a bit of heartwood mixed in at the knob, which doesn’t worry me much.


----------



## Esq1997




----------



## Esq1997

Now for the Danish oil....


----------



## Esq1997




----------



## Esq1997

Just finished up this brush axe. A Collins Legitimus I picked up at an antiques store. Not a great restoration, but decent enough.


----------



## rarefish383

Our Spring Farm and Equipment auction is this week. They have a couple doubles and a Kelly single I'll bid on. Since I was in high school, back in the 70's, this sale has been a social event for me and a bunch of my old friends. The fall sale was all online, and lasted from Monday to Friday. Just not the same as a giant one day auction with 3 auctioneers going at the same time. You would be running back and forth trying not to miss something. On line people have time to sit around and second guess backing out, so they jump back in. Prices are high. I paid $3700 for a JD X500 at the fall sale. I hope to get out of this one with a few axes and only loose about $20.


----------



## svk

Esq1997 said:


> Just finished up this brush axe. A Collins Legitimus I picked up at an antiques store. Not a great restoration, but decent enough.View attachment 896042
> View attachment 896043


Nice, I have the same one.


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## Esq1997

Kind of a pain to sharpen.


----------



## Esq1997

How old do you think it is?


----------



## svk

Mine was from the early to mid 70’s. Looking at the label, I’d bet yours is a bit older.


----------



## Drptrch

Esq1997 said:


> Just finished up this brush axe. A Collins Legitimus I picked up at an antiques store. Not a great restoration, but decent enough.View attachment 896042
> View attachment 896043



Same here, Collins axe and Disston Saw















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rarefish383

@LondonNeil, Neil, what do you think of this one? Never seen one before. Fairly big Elwell, looks like original handle. Think I'll be bidding on it, a Kelly Registered, two doubles, a Collins single, and a little ickle no name ax.


----------



## rarefish383

Well, won't be bidding on the Kelly registered, it's up to $130 and the auction isn't over till Friday.


----------



## rarefish383

The Elwell is at $3, I'm still in on that one!


----------



## LondonNeil

Elwell is one of the best British axe makers so it should be decent. Thats a tomahawk fit handle isn't it? I'm not versed in the shape or purpose of that shape I'm afraid. The double headed emblem isn't common, I would guess the head axe head is quite old. Looks interesting.


----------



## rarefish383

Yes, very interesting. I'm going to try and bring this one home. I'm not sure what the eye, fit, is called. Tomahawk fits. It is a round eye. It looks like it was forged by driving a round spike through it, The "poll", if that is what it's called on this one, is round on the outside. No flat surface. 

From what I'm seeing on the Kelly Registered, that thing may be close to a hundred years old, and they do bring a lot more than pocket change. Can't wait to see what it goes for.


----------



## rarefish383

I found one that looks like it. Called a pole axe. It was on Bushcraft. I registered on that site years ago. None of my old pass words worked. Then I looked at it. It was Bushcraft, UK.


----------



## LondonNeil

What I meant by tomahawk is friction fit, not wedged but slid up from the bottom of the handle, like a pickaxe or mattock or a Basque axe. Although looking again there seems to be a palm swell on the haft, so maybe not?


----------



## LondonNeil

Btw, I don't know what a pole axe was used for but we have a phrase or saying, "to be pole axed" do you? It means to be floored, knocked over, beat.


----------



## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> What I meant by tomahawk is friction fit, not wedged but slid up from the bottom of the handle, like a pickaxe or mattock or a Basque axe. Although looking again there seems to be a palm swell on the haft, so maybe not?


Thanks Neil. I picked it up and the handle is about 24-30 inch. I think it was pretty straight all the way through, and I think it had a wedge in it. I looked at so many in a short time yesterday, I'm getting them mixed up. I found a pic on BushcraftUK, but couldn't log on to ask questions. Found quite a bit about Elwell, some interesting history. But could find nothing specific to this ax. I did find Arbtalk and registered there. I still have the high bid at $24.


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## rarefish383

Yep, we have that same saying, pretty much same meaning. "He went down like he was Pole Axed". Knocked flat, etc.


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## rarefish383

Neil, can you think of any other term to use on a search. It was called a pole ax on Pickclick. Might not be what it's really called. When I think of a "Pole Axe", I'm thinking of a medieval, 8' long, weapon?


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## LondonNeil

I'm on arbtalk. It's not great.. It's not that big a forum community and is mainly professional tree service guys. There's not any axe knowledge there really. Maybe try some of the blade/knife/axe forums? Or some old woodworking tool websites.. timeless tools.co.uk has a 'tool finder' service, might be worth a try.
I'll have a think on names


----------



## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> I'm on arbtalk. It's not great.. It's not that big a forum community and is mainly professional tree service guys. There's not any axe knowledge there really. Maybe try some of the blade/knife/axe forums? Or some old woodworking tool websites.. timeless tools.co.uk has a 'tool finder' service, might be worth a try.
> I'll have a think on names


Since I was fourth generation in the tree business, they didn't laugh at me, and I got a few likes.


----------



## Woodslasher

LondonNeil said:


> I'm on arbtalk. It's not great.. It's not that big a forum community and is mainly professional tree service guys. There's not any axe knowledge there really. Maybe try some of the blade/knife/axe forums? Or some old woodworking tool websites.. timeless tools.co.uk has a 'tool finder' service, might be worth a try.
> I'll have a think on names


Bladeforums.com, I'm a member there and it's a pretty good site. The axe is known as a trade ax or export axe fyi.


----------



## rarefish383

Thanks, I've heard those terms, now I can look them up and learn something.


----------



## Esq1997

Plumb cruiser. Is this far enough on the haft?


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## svk

Looks nice


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## Esq1997




----------



## Woodslasher

Esq1997 said:


> Plumb cruiser. Is this far enough on the haft?View attachment 896790


I'd drop it to within 1/2" to 1/4" of the widest point/shoulder, like I did on the axe below.


----------



## Esq1997

Thank you. I’ll do that tomorrow.


----------



## abbott295

Joe (Rarefish) and all: That style axe, the Elwell, is similar to what I was seeing in Guatemala 30-40 years ago. I believe they still make them like that in Central and 
south America. I didn't pay much attention to them then and did not have occasion to look at axes when I was there a year ago to get a crown put on a tooth. I know a dentist there. Although I did bring back a pickaxe years ago; handle is from there and I forget what the wood is supposed to be.


----------



## LondonNeil

that jogs a memory. i think ive read of them being Spanish axes/pattern.








Spanish Pino Belt Axe Head 19th Century - Oct 03, 2020 | North American Auction Co. in MT


The lot features a Spanish forged belt axe head from the 19th Century. Many of these Spanish belt axe heads have been... on Oct 03, 2020




www.liveauctioneers.com


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## Esq1997




----------



## Esq1997

I really like how the Watco oil finished the handle. Switched from BLO for last few axe builds.


----------



## svk

Esq1997 said:


> I really like how the Watco oil finished the handle. Switched from BLO for last few axe builds.


Da Wadka!!!

(From Buckin Billy Ray)


----------



## Esq1997

That’s where I discovered it!!!


----------



## Drptrch

Esq1997 said:


> I really like how the Watco oil finished the handle. Switched from BLO for last few axe builds.



Which Watco oil did you use ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Esq1997

I used medium walnut.


----------



## Kingbilly68

My first axe restoration. True temper I found in an old garage.


----------



## Kingbilly68

Before pic


----------



## rarefish383

I got out bid on some nice heads. One Collins with an absolute perfect poll, a double with two old hand planes, went to $50. I think the buyer wanted the old planes. Trouble with the online actions. I've got several nice axes because the person wanted the other items in the lot. Here's the four I brought home.


----------



## rarefish383

This is probably the only ax I have with a proud handle.


----------



## LondonNeil

You got the Elwell Inn the end then!


----------



## abbott295

And you stuck it in a block wall!


----------



## LondonNeil

Shows the quality of the steel


----------



## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> Shows the quality of the steel


Thanks, you beat me to it. I was going to say it's one Bad Azz axe.


----------



## rarefish383

I like to know the history of my axes. I found quite a bit on Elwell going back to the 1500's.
I always thought the Stanley's were middle of the line quality axes, but I may be wrong. Mann Ax bought out Collins's holdings in the US in 1966. But, Stanley bought out their holdings in South America and Mexico. Stanley had a no compete clause in the purchase, so Mann could not market products with the Mann or Collins name on them south of the border. If you look at the pic of the Stanley, you can see an M at each end of the logo. Some of the Ax historians "think" that may stand for Mann Made, and Mann actually made the axes for Stanley. Just an educated guess.


----------



## rarefish383

I'm going to step on some toes again. But, that's just me. You guys are taking some beautiful heads, putting them on beautiful hafts, and not taking 5 minutes to learn how to hang them right. I have 100+ year old axes that were hung properly, with the original haft in them, cut flush to the eye, and they are still tight. To me, sticking a 1/4 to 1/2 inch out of the eye is just being too lazy to do it right. Trim the handle so it slides through easy then squash the wood to make it tight. You are going to find, if you use them, that because the part of the haft inside the eye is not tight to the eye, in time it will let the head slide into the squashed part and eventually come loose. It's like finding a beautiful Model A with a rust hole in the floor, and just screwing a piece of plywood over it. It's flat, it stops the water getting in, you can't see it, and it's easier than welding a proper patch in. I guess it's a BBR thing?


----------



## Esq1997

Before I started restoring axes myself, I had this one done professionally. It’s. 12” x 3.5” Puget Sound pattern. The only marking I can find is under the bit, which I photographed. Does anyone have any thoughts of who might have manufactured this double bit?


----------



## rarefish383

Wow, that thing is cool. The way you finished the top of the haft is beautiful. I can pass this chore on to you. In my early days of collecting, and playing on computers, I found a printed table of makers marks. I had been looking all day and had tried every combination of words I could think of for searches. I didn't know how to copy and print stuff, so I was waiting for my son to get home. When I went back later, someone else used the computer and erased my page. I tried using every combo of words, and have looked for that chart many times since, and have never found it. It must be out there somewhere? Good luck.


----------



## rarefish383

Just did a search for, "list of axe makers marks" and found a bunch of them, might take a while to go through them all.


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## Esq1997

I’ve been scanning the web for quite some time and have not been able to identify this axe by the “10” stamped under the bit. Kind of odd. It’s a huge axe.


----------



## TNTreeHugger

Esq1997 said:


> I’ve been scanning the web for quite some time and have not been able to identify this axe by the “10” stamped under the bit. Kind of odd. It’s a huge axe.


Idk anything about it, but I don't think that's a 1.

(I'm just following along for the education )

1815 Netherlands?








__





Dutch Hallmarks - Encyclopedia of Silver Marks, Hallmarks & Maker's Marks


Netherlands Hallmarks - Online Encyclopedia of Silver Marks, Hallmarks & Maker's Marks



www.nobelantik.dk













Dutch colonization of the Americas - Wikipedia







en.wikipedia.org


----------



## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> You got the Elwell Inn the end then!


You can see a 4 under the Elwell logo. I would assume that means a 4 pounds? The handle is quite heavy, the whole thing feels like 8-10 ponds. It's heavy, and I would not like to be on the user end all day!


----------



## Woodslasher

rarefish383 said:


> I got out bid on some nice heads. One Collins with an absolute perfect poll, a double with two old hand planes, went to $50. I think the buyer wanted the old planes. Trouble with the online actions. I've got several nice axes because the person wanted the other items in the lot. Here's the four I brought home.


That first axe is very old and I'd swear I've seen that "lip" at the edge before, but I can't remember where. It might have been called a "Chip Slinger" or something similar. edit: Yep, a Kelly Chip Slinger!






rarefish383 said:


> I like to know the history of my axes. I found quite a bit on Elwell going back to the 1500's.
> I always thought the Stanley's were middle of the line quality axes, but I may be wrong. Mann Ax bought out Collins's holdings in the US in 1966. But, Stanley bought out their holdings in South America and Mexico. Stanley had a no compete clause in the purchase, so Mann could not market products with the Mann or Collins name on them south of the border. If you look at the pic of the Stanley, you can see an M at each end of the logo. Some of the Ax historians "think" that may stand for Mann Made, and Mann actually made the axes for Stanley. Just an educated guess.


Stanley's are middle line. They were made by Mann, and Mann also made axes for Collins from the 60's onward. I have a beefy Stanley, it was my first single bit and it is a good user, but it has flat cheeks and isn't the greatest. It splits well, is a nice wedge-beater, and is made from good steel, but I wouldn't use it for felling or bucking. You can see it on the far right side of this picture.




Esq1997 said:


> I’ve been scanning the web for quite some time and have not been able to identify this axe by the “10” stamped under the bit. Kind of odd. It’s a huge axe.


I only recall hearing of two manufacturers with stamps on the bottom of the axe, one was an eastern company, either Snow and Neally or Emerson and Stevens, and the other was Mann so I'd guess it's a Mann. To the best of my knowledge, only Kelly, Warren, Mann, Sager, and maybe Plumb made Pugets in any real numbers, so it is almost definitely one of them at least. No, @TNTreeHugger I do not think it's Dutch. Americans were the only people to make large quantities of double bits, and we are the only nation to produce Puget Sound axes, so named because they were designed for the massive old growth trees in the PNW.


----------



## LondonNeil

rarefish383 said:


> I'm going to step on some toes again. But, To me, sticking a 1/4 to 1/2 inch out of the eye is just being too lazy to do it right.





rarefish383 said:


> Wow, that thing is cool. The way you finished the top of the haft is beautiful.


Lol! . It's not just me that sees the irony is it!?


rarefish383 said:


> You can see a 4 under the Elwell logo. I would assume that means a 4 pounds? The handle is quite heavy, the whole thing feels like 8-10 ponds. It's heavy, and I would not like to be on the user end all day!


I'd assume 4lb but I see plenty of eBay ads referring to '4 inch cut' and so on.


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## Woodslasher

Wow, I haven't done this much axe-sleuthing since I was actively collecting axes 2-3 ago! On the axe forum I went by A17, the letter-number combo that was on the Kelly Woodslasher double bit I got as my first axe. It also gave me my username for this site. As for @rarefish383 's comment about the proud hafts, I leave mine slightly proud (usually less than 1/4 inch) since my axes are stored out in a shed and will get wet, so I have to occasionally whack the wedges in deeper or replace them. Plus, that is how I was taught to do it. If anyone wants to read more about proud hafts, check out the thread linked to below, it has the guy who wrote the Axe Book for the Forest Service and a bunch of experienced axe users (and me) discussing the merits of the different ways.
https://bladeforums.com/threads/6lb-axe-riveting-discussion-on-proud-hafts.1642837/


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## TNTreeHugger

Woodslasher said:


> Wow, I haven't done this much axe-sleuthing since I was actively collecting axes 2-3 ago! On the axe forum I went by A17, the letter-number combo that was on the Kelly Woodslasher double bit I got as my first axe. It also gave me my username for this site. As for @rarefish383 's comment about the proud hafts, I leave mine slightly proud (usually less than 1/4 inch) since my axes are stored out in a shed and will get wet, so I have to occasionally whack the wedges in deeper or replace them. Plus, that is how I was taught to do it. If anyone wants to read more about proud hafts, check out the thread linked to below, it has the guy who wrote the Axe Book for the Forest Service and a bunch of experienced axe users (and me) discussing the merits of the different ways.
> https://bladeforums.com/threads/6lb-axe-riveting-discussion-on-proud-hafts.1642837/


Oooh, thanks for the link!


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## Esq1997

Thanks for the info. Keep it coming if anyone has more to add.


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## Woodslasher

@Esq1997 I retract my guess. I'm going to say Sager, even though I have an unfounded feeling it's a Warren. The plainly-delineated lines where the hardened steel meets the softer steel is something I've seen on a fair amount of older Sager's so I'm gonna go with that.


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## Esq1997

I was going to leave this Mann forestry service axe as is, but got bored and touched up the bits. Before and after....


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## abbott295

This is curious; I hadn’t heard of, or at least not seen, a Warren axe before, but last week I pulled an axe head out of a dumpster at work, and giving it a quick look today, it says Warren, with maybe some other marks also. I will be looking at it some more soon.


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## Woodslasher

abbott295 said:


> This is curious; I hadn’t heard of, or at least not seen, a Warren axe before, but last week I pulled an axe head out of a dumpster at work, and giving it a quick look today, it says Warren, with maybe some other marks also. I will be looking at it some more soon.


I've only seen one Warren near me, nice find!


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## H-Ranch

rarefish383 said:


> I'm going to step on some toes again. But, that's just me. You guys are taking some beautiful heads, putting them on beautiful hafts, and not taking 5 minutes to learn how to hang them right. I have 100+ year old axes that were hung properly, with the original haft in them, cut flush to the eye, and they are still tight. To me, sticking a 1/4 to 1/2 inch out of the eye is just being too lazy to do it right. Trim the handle so it slides through easy then squash the wood to make it tight. You are going to find, if you use them, that because the part of the haft inside the eye is not tight to the eye, in time it will let the head slide into the squashed part and eventually come loose. It's like finding a beautiful Model A with a rust hole in the floor, and just screwing a piece of plywood over it. It's flat, it stops the water getting in, you can't see it, and it's easier than welding a proper patch in. I guess it's a BBR thing?


I didn't know you were paying all these guys to hang axes for you, Joe! 
Seriously, if someone likes the look of it being a little proud of the head then who cares? Most (and probably all) are not making museum pieces. I personally don't see a down side to being slightly proud. I don't view it as lazy, in fact the lazy way is to cut it flush (It's easier and less work to finish it anyway.)


LondonNeil said:


> Lol! . It's not just me that sees the irony is it!


Neil, I also smiled when Joe liked a proud hang. 


Woodslasher said:


> If anyone wants to read more about proud hafts, check out the thread linked to below, it has the guy who wrote the Axe Book for the Forest Service and a bunch of experienced axe users (and me) discussing the merits of the different ways.
> https://bladeforums.com/threads/6lb-axe-riveting-discussion-on-proud-hafts.1642837/


Thanks, interesting reading that somehow didn't degenerate into name calling after page 2. Not a settled topic by any means. I did find the argument that flush was superior because "that's the way it's always been done" to be repeatedly used as amusing.


----------



## U&A

Esq1997 said:


> View attachment 895239
> View attachment 895240



NICE!!

“House Handles” eh....

Im looking now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Woodslasher

H-Ranch said:


> Thanks, interesting reading that somehow didn't degenerate into name calling after page 2. Not a settled topic by any means. I did find the argument that flush was superior because "that's the way it's always been done" to be repeatedly used as amusing.


You should see the "What haft oil ratio?" threads.  On all seriousness, I don't think I've ever seen a debate on there get personal outside of one or two troublemakers who were promptly banned, but they were always new people who were only looking for trouble.


----------



## U&A

Drptrch said:


> Same here, Collins axe and Disston Saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



AWSOME saw!

I want one. Want to cut some trees down with it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rarefish383

H-Ranch said:


> I didn't know you were paying all these guys to hang axes for you, Joe!
> Seriously, if someone likes the look of it being a little proud of the head then who cares? Most (and probably all) are not making museum pieces. I personally don't see a down side to being slightly proud. I don't view it as lazy, in fact the lazy way is to cut it flush (It's easier and less work to finish it anyway.)
> 
> Neil, I also smiled when Joe liked a proud hang.
> 
> Thanks, interesting reading that somehow didn't degenerate into name calling after page 2. Not a settled topic by any means. I did find the argument that flush was superior because "that's the way it's always been done" to be repeatedly used as amusing.


It doesn’t Matter how it’s hung, what matters is what you call it. A “ restoration” is done too original. A model A with the roof chopped isn’t a restoration, it’s a hot rod. I love hot rods.

A flush hang is harder to do because the haft has to fit the eye tighter and takes a lot more hand fitting, a proud hang can be made loose and depend on the wedge making it tight.

I’ve commented a lot of these proud axes were done well. Just not accurate to history. It’s a YouTube fad.
m
Most of these old axes we find are beat to death any way, takes a lot of grinding to reshape polls and need bits reprofiled. So anything that brings them back is a good thing.


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## rarefish383

Esq1997 said:


> I was going to leave this Mann forestry service axe as is, but got bored and touched up the bits. Before and after....View attachment 897773
> View attachment 897774


That's a nice one. If I was at an auction, the guy bidding against me would have to dig deep in his pockets, cause that would be coming home with me.


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## rarefish383

abbott295 said:


> This is curious; I hadn’t heard of, or at least not seen, a Warren axe before, but last week I pulled an axe head out of a dumpster at work, and giving it a quick look today, it says Warren, with maybe some other marks also. I will be looking at it some more soon.


Made in Warren Pa from 1893 to 1950, with out seeing it, I'd still keep it.

In 1895 William J. Sager received a patent for chemically treating axes, and these were badged as Sager's. This is a rough quote from Yesteryearstools. I've seen Sagers, never a Warren.


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## H-Ranch

rarefish383 said:


> A flush hang is harder to do because the haft has to fit the eye tighter and takes a lot more hand fitting, a proud hang can be made loose and depend on the wedge making it tight.


I guess I'm misunderstanding why a proud hang can't be hand fit as tight as a flush hang. If you're saying it *can* be done by just inserting the handle and pounding a wedge in then that can be done with either. Heck, a guy I play basketball with just hammered a new handle in a sledge hammer head - no wood wedge or anything. Used it like that with no intention of ever doing more.

Agreed on seeing old axes being brought back to life though even if they may not be period correct. A wall hanger or a daily user is better than the scrapyard!


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## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> Lol! . It's not just me that sees the irony is it!?
> 
> I'd assume 4lb but I see plenty of eBay ads referring to '4 inch cut' and so on.


No irony, something can be beautiful, and still not accurate. I went back to look at it again and realized this is the one he sent out to be done. The extra touch of chamfering the edge of the wedge moves it into the realm of art. I would feel terrible smacking it with a hammer to tighten it back up!


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## rarefish383

HaHa, Neil, I figured it out. I'm turning into the Speach Police. To me, it doesn't matter what you do to it, it's what you call it. When I was in my 20's I worked for a high end Antique Dealer. I Restored the finish on old furniture to museum Quality, so I get hung up on the difference between "restored", and "refinished". My son in law wanted a new desk chair for Christmas. I had a 1930's Oak office chair, and my wife talked me into "Restoring" it for him. Half way through the project, I found out he wanted the Honey Oak color of the natural wood. The Original colored was a Mahogany red stain. Little details like the brass tag with the company name on it. It was covered over with layers of stain. I polished it to bright brass. So, to me, it became a refinish project. It took the same level of skill to refinish it, but half the time as it would to restore it. I'm just as proud of the final project. I think people tend to look down on a refinished project, and look up to a restoration. Here's my chair, it's not original anymore, but I like it alot.


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## rarefish383

If you notice my prized Plumb cruiser in the back ground, it's a bit proud. If some one asks, I say that's the one my friend Clarence made for me, custom octagonal haft, reprofiled edge, balanced, edge ground for throwing, not chopping. It used to be my throwing ax, but now it's too nice to throw. I do take it out now and then and cut down a few weed trees that spring up in my woods.


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## rarefish383

Woodslasher said:


> That first axe is very old and I'd swear I've seen that "lip" at the edge before, but I can't remember where. It might have been called a "Chip Slinger" or something similar. edit: Yep, a Kelly Chip Slinger!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stanley's are middle line. They were made by Mann, and Mann also made axes for Collins from the 60's onward. I have a beefy Stanley, it was my first single bit and it is a good user, but it has flat cheeks and isn't the greatest. It splits well, is a nice wedge-beater, and is made from good steel, but I wouldn't use it for felling or bucking. You can see it on the far right side of this picture.
> View attachment 897760
> 
> 
> I only recall hearing of two manufacturers with stamps on the bottom of the axe, one was an eastern company, either Snow and Neally or Emerson and Stevens, and the other was Mann so I'd guess it's a Mann. To the best of my knowledge, only Kelly, Warren, Mann, Sager, and maybe Plumb made Pugets in any real numbers, so it is almost definitely one of them at least. No, @TNTreeHugger I do not think it's Dutch. Americans were the only people to make large quantities of double bits, and we are the only nation to produce Puget Sound axes, so named because they were designed for the massive old growth trees in the PNW.


Thanks for the pics. Now I'm going out to flip mine over and see if it's a Kelly too. As far as the Sagers go, weren't they Warrens, after W.J.Sager got his patent and they started badging axes under his name in 1895?

Can't tell if it's a Kelly, but I think it is. The axe is in pretty good shape, but, there is a little rolling of the poll right where your logo is, and it looks like that's where they had it on a dirt floor, most of the rust. It does look like writing under the pitting, but can't make out a single letter.


----------



## rarefish383

That wa


Woodslasher said:


> Wow, I haven't done this much axe-sleuthing since I was actively collecting axes 2-3 ago! On the axe forum I went by A17, the letter-number combo that was on the Kelly Woodslasher double bit I got as my first axe. It also gave me my username for this site. As for @rarefish383 's comment about the proud hafts, I leave mine slightly proud (usually less than 1/4 inch) since my axes are stored out in a shed and will get wet, so I have to occasionally whack the wedges in deeper or replace them. Plus, that is how I was taught to do it. If anyone wants to read more about proud hafts, check out the thread linked to below, it has the guy who wrote the Axe Book for the Forest Service and a bunch of experienced axe users (and me) discussing the merits of the different ways.
> https://bladeforums.com/threads/6lb-axe-riveting-discussion-on-proud-hafts.1642837/


That's a nice article, I just skimmed it for now, but Curt Hal resolved my issue. He calls his axes, "refurbished", so it doesn't matter if it's historically correct.


----------



## H-Ranch

rarefish383 said:


> Here's my chair, it's not original anymore, but I like it alot.


I like that chair a lot, too. In fact, when you originally posted it, I was inspired to look for one. Just missed a ratty looking one - perfect for refinishing, maybe not as much for restoration. But since its just for me, i don't care if it's historically accurate. I just want it to look good and be functional.


----------



## rarefish383

It's a Marble's Chair Company, Bedford Ohio. I think I read that Marble's went to all office chairs in the 30's. My mom worked for FDA in an 18 story, 4 wing building. I rescued mine from the land fill not far from her building. I wouldn't be surprised if they took thousands of them to the land fill when they went to new desks and chairs. I'd love to find another for myself.


----------



## DSW

Nice to see @H-Ranch posting.


----------



## H-Ranch

DSW said:


> Nice to see @H-Ranch posting.


@DSW did you do your cordwood challenge this year? Probably finished up on January 2nd and I just don't remember. Been trying to keep up and learn something about axes and other stuff on the site from the guys with the big brains. 

Was another crazy year (I mean outside of covid) and doesn't look like it's letting up this year so far. I haven't used an ax for more than 50 swings in the last year but I did try my hand at black walnut syrup making. You have any walnut there? I recall our woods are similar you said.


----------



## abbott295

I've got some pictures of the Waren axe. I will try to post them.











It says "Warren" and "4" on the one side, and has USA above that, stamped both right side up and upside down. It also seems to have USA on the other side and on the top and bottom as well. The poll has been beat on a little. 

When I first found it, as I did not look closely, I thought it was a no-name Michigan (?) pattern; that seems to be the most commonly seen. 
It is not too beat up and the haft was already removed.


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## rarefish383

I took a minute and looked at the double I got last weekend. It's in much better shape than I thought. Most of the black finish is still on the head. There are no chips on the edge, the profile is perfect. Then I looked at the eye, it is filled with a red sealer. The Plumb Permabond hammers and hatchets had black heads, red handles, and red sealer in the eye. The handle is wrapped up a good foot with black electricians tape, maybe if I get lucky, there will be something under there. Hoping I can prove it's a Plumb. I have a Plumb Double Rack now.


----------



## rarefish383

For curious minds, if I decide to refurb this one as a chopper, I'll just stick the nicest Hickory handle I can find in it. if I restore it, I'll take the old handle out from the bottom, try to work the red sealer plug out in one piece, clean it up nice and shiny. Rehang the head, and epoxy the red plug back in. Unless, someone knows the proper sealer to use, that would make life easy. Then, I need to find what the black paint on the head is. It's not blueing, but, it's much more resistant than most paints, plus it's much thinner than most paints. Did they have powder coating back then?


----------



## H-Ranch

rarefish383 said:


> Did they have powder coating back then?


I'm going to guess no on the powder coating. Even if they did, powder coating is typically not good on corners so I think it would start flaking and peeling on all the edges.


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## LondonNeil

It's also more brittle than other paint finishes I believe.


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## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> It's also more brittle than other paint finishes I believe.


Instead of asking about coatings we know it's not, maybe I should have asked if anyone knows what it IS. I was going to take it down stairs and rub it down with some penatrating oil, I think most of the original finish is still there. But, somehow, I misplaced the ax.


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## rarefish383

I found where I left it, don't remember bringing it in the garage, but there it was. The head is 10 1/4 inches wide on a 34 inch haft. Guess I'll see how well it cleans up, to decide what to do with it.


----------



## DSW

H-Ranch said:


> @DSW did you do your cordwood challenge this year? Probably finished up on January 2nd and I just don't remember. Been trying to keep up and learn something about axes and other stuff on the site from the guys with the big brains.
> 
> Was another crazy year (I mean outside of covid) and doesn't look like it's letting up this year so far. I haven't used an ax for more than 50 swings in the last year but I did try my hand at black walnut syrup making. You have any walnut there? I recall our woods are similar you said.



I did 2019 and 2020. I haven't done one for 2021 and I probably wont. I have been using an axe and a hatchet but not to the extent of the challenge. Camping, carving, I've split a little. 

Hopefully everything's on the up and up personally. Sounds like the Covid madness might be coming to an end eventually. Nice! We have Walnut around here but none on my property. I know very little about syrup making, people tapping Maple is about the extent of my knowledge.


----------



## DSW

It sounds like Team AS may miss the Cordwood Challenge Championship this year.


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## rarefish383

I keep in touch with multifaceted periodically, he’s really busy at work. I think he said he got promoted to production manager and has little time for much else. I’ve got to ask if he’s getting any brewing in?


----------



## svk

rarefish383 said:


> I keep in touch with multifaceted periodically, he’s really busy at work. I think he said he got promoted to production manager and has little time for much else. I’ve got to ask if he’s getting any brewing in?


I still need to get out there and check out that brewery near your house. And owe you a growler or two for those saws. Unfortunately I don’t see east coast travel in my short term plans.


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## rarefish383

That's OK, they went out of business. But, there is another one half a mile up the road, and I think the food is better. On special the have Kangaroo Tacos, and they are GOOOOOD!


----------



## Drptrch

Service tools 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Drptrch

Redding Ca

10" Wet Stone Knife Axe Sharpener With Motor








10" Wet Stone Knife Axe Sharpener With Motor - tools - by owner - sale


For sale, good working 10" wet stone sharpener. Its mounted on a board with a good running Dayton motor. Please call or text if interested, thank you..



redding.craigslist.org






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Esq1997

Need help identifying this axe head.


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## Esq1997

Anybody?


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## GusGus2020

Esq1997 said:


> Anybody?


No idea...but it looks interesting!


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## Esq1997

It has traces of red paint on it. Woodslasher maybe?


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## Woodslasher

Esq1997 said:


> It has traces of red paint on it. Woodslasher maybe?


Nope, not me.


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## Esq1997

Hahaha. Maybe a storm king.


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## Esq1997




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## Esq1997




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## Esq1997

Vintage files meet vintage axe.....


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## rarefish383

Drptrch said:


> Redding Ca
> 
> 10" Wet Stone Knife Axe Sharpener With Motor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10" Wet Stone Knife Axe Sharpener With Motor - tools - by owner - sale
> 
> 
> For sale, good working 10" wet stone sharpener. Its mounted on a board with a good running Dayton motor. Please call or text if interested, thank you..
> 
> 
> 
> redding.craigslist.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is the well the stone is in a trough for water?


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## rarefish383

Esq1997 said:


> Need help identifying this axe head.
> 
> View attachment 899954
> View attachment 899955
> View attachment 899956


Sorry, I'll look and see what red heads are hiding down stairs. The double I got a couple weeks ago had no stamps on it. The head was black, and while cleaning it, I saw it had red sealer in the eye. That is a Plumb Permabond pattern. By the time the Permabond came out they were using paper labels on them. Probably the same with yours.


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## rarefish383

I found one red head down stairs, 7 1/2 inch head and a 32" haft. It still has some of the paper label on it, but can't read anything on it. I guessed it was a True Temper.


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## Drptrch

rarefish383 said:


> Is the well the stone is in a trough for water?



Yes. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bigbadbob

Pickaroon for $5 Sooline,, needs little. 1.5 T hoist $15


----------



## cookies

Well I bit the bullet and ordered several handles from handle house. It was beyond time to replace them on several my hammers and the ones I purchased this last year for my hatchets are turning out to be junk. beware of the amish ones on ebay, their not dried! mine shrunk after a month and required refitting. I ordered all hand picked octagon without varnish and I must say all but one seem to be premo cuts, I left them in the house open for 2 weeks to make darn sure they are dry before fitting my tools onto them. Today I did a 16oz hammer and a true temper hatchet, the handles are much better fitting, requiring only slight sanding or slit cutting to fit the head, only 3/8 had to be cut off the top of the handle to make it flush with the tool. I ordered 7 (smaller) handles coming to a total close to 90 dollars delivered making them just a buck or two more than hardware store handles that have become bad quality. I plan to oil the handles i hang boiled lintseed oil with soot mixed in unless others have a better method to protect them from rain, oil, grease, gasoline etc.


----------



## Esq1997

Three ax heads ready for handles.


----------



## Esq1997




----------



## svk

Nice. I have a similar or the same head.


----------



## Esq1997

Any guess as to age?


----------



## Woodslasher

Esq1997 said:


> Any guess as to age?


60's or 70's, _maybe _80's but not likely.


----------



## Esq1997

Flush cut the handle


----------



## svk

Mid 70’s I’d guess


----------



## Esq1997

Gotta stop stumbling upon FSS axes....


----------



## Esq1997

Actually found a 36” hickory Ames double bit handle at Lowes. Fits perfect with very little fitting needed. Grain alignment is spot on. Removed clear coat with a card scraper. First time I’ve found a usable handle at a local brick and mortar store.


----------



## LondonNeil

Do oak, or cherry make a worthwhile handle? I've never heard of cherry being used but it's dense stuff. Oak I have heard of as axe handles, just not as common as hickory, ash or beech (in order of quality). Asking as I have some straight bits of both that look relatively knot free and long enough. It's limb wood if that makes a difference. Is it worth me free hand milling a couple of handle blanks, or do I just turn it into firewood and buy some Ash?


----------



## Esq1997

Random question. Do any of you apply BLO to the “tongue” of the handle before fitting axe head? I’ve been using BLO on the wedge and inside the kerf, but have been leaving the tongue untreated.


----------



## LondonNeil

I've done it a couple of times. Seemed to lubricate and help the head slip on a little better and, my logic, it should seal the wood and help stop it drying out and shrinking


----------



## Esq1997

Thanks. Wasn’t sure if it was overkill.


----------



## DSW

LondonNeil said:


> Do oak, or cherry make a worthwhile handle? I've never heard of cherry being used but it's dense stuff. Oak I have heard of as axe handles, just not as common as hickory, ash or beech (in order of quality). Asking as I have some straight bits of both that look relatively knot free and long enough. It's limb wood if that makes a difference. Is it worth me free hand milling a couple of handle blanks, or do I just turn it into firewood and buy some Ash?


I would use either and not give it a second thought.

Especially if it's on hand.


----------



## Esq1997

Just picked up this unmarked FS axe for $25.00. Had to do a little work on the profile, but I think it’s in ok shape now. Does anyone have an opinion on who might have manufactured this axe? It’s 6 5/8” x 4 1/2”. Probably 3 1/2 lbs.


----------



## GusGus2020

Esq1997 said:


> Just picked up this unmarked FS axe for $25.00. Had to do a little work on the profile, but I think it’s in ok shape now. Does anyone have an opinion on who might have manufactured this axe? It’s 6 5/8” x 4 1/2”. Probably 3 1/2 lbs.



Almost reminds me of a keen litter that I have with the indentation in the middle of the axe.


----------



## Esq1997

I have no idea what mine is. It’s pretty pitted, but it’s clearly stamped FS. Mine looks kind of primitive compared to the other FS axes I’ve found.


----------



## Esq1997

I guess the maker will remain a mystery. Lol. What would you say best describes the pattern of this axe…Connecticut?


----------



## svk

Got these from a neighbor who is moving away. The little cruiser will be nice for carrying in the truck. The larger one on the left needs a new handle but a nice score IMO.


----------



## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> Do oak, or cherry make a worthwhile handle? I've never heard of cherry being used but it's dense stuff. Oak I have heard of as axe handles, just not as common as hickory, ash or beech (in order of quality). Asking as I have some straight bits of both that look relatively knot free and long enough. It's limb wood if that makes a difference. Is it worth me free hand milling a couple of handle blanks, or do I just turn it into firewood and buy some Ash?


I heard once that Oak is not a good handle material and I forget why? It might have been that it's too stiff, so no whipping action in the swing? I just don't remember? 

OT: I was over on Arbtalk. I posted a bunch of Bird pics a few months ago and was checking out what every one over there is seeing in the spring. I remember having trouble posting my first pic there, but got it fixed, can't remember what I did? Clicking and dragging isn't working? Imgur just posts the link and I don't think it would open over there? You have any suggestions. I'll keep working on it. I just remembered that my first post was of a saw, I'll see if I can find that. I think some one may have told me how to do it. But, if you know what I'm doing wrong, feel free to tell me.


----------



## rarefish383

svk said:


> Got these from a neighbor who is moving away. The little cruiser will be nice for carrying in the truck. The larger one on the left needs a new handle but a nice score IMO.
> View attachment 906395


I like that smaller one, is it small enough to be a cruiser? I might be looking for another Plumb double. I'm starting to get my yard cart and saw display ready for the county fair. I have a Plumb display rack for 4 doubles. I'd like to get 4 different sizes if I can. I have the sweet cruiser that Clarence hung for me.


----------



## LondonNeil

rarefish383 said:


> I heard once that Oak is not a good handle material and I forget why? It might have been that it's too stiff, so no whipping action in the swing? I just don't remember?
> 
> OT: I was over on Arbtalk. I posted a bunch of Bird pics a few months ago and was checking out what every one over there is seeing in the spring. I remember having trouble posting my first pic there, but got it fixed, can't remember what I did? Clicking and dragging isn't working? Imgur just posts the link and I don't think it would open over there? You have any suggestions. I'll keep working on it. I just remembered that my first post was of a saw, I'll see if I can find that. I think some one may have told me how to do it. But, if you know what I'm doing wrong, feel free to tell me.


Yeah I can't imagine oak being good for a handle.

Arbtalk, hit reply, then 'click to add file' and select what you want


----------



## Woodslasher

rarefish383 said:


> I like that smaller one, is it small enough to be a cruiser? I might be looking for another Plumb double. I'm starting to get my yard cart and saw display ready for the county fair. I have a Plumb display rack for 4 doubles. I'd like to get 4 different sizes if I can. I have the sweet cruiser that Clarence hung for me.


What's the bar on the far right for? A neighbor has a bar with the same cutout in the end and I'm wondering what it came off of.


----------



## rarefish383

Woodslasher said:


> What's the bar on the far right for? A neighbor has a bar with the same cutout in the end and I'm wondering what it came off of.


I had to look, I've got so much stuff every where. That's a 36" Homelite hard nose. The cut out is for a helper handle. My Dad bought that saw brand new in 1973, and the bar is still like new as far as using it. I still used that saw and bar to mill with, until I bought a 660 to take over milling. I was afraid of blowing up the Homelite. My Dad bought another 36" in the 80's and it didn't have the helper handle. It had a little square hole and a round hole. I just found out what they were for. It had a tip guard on it. Cracked me up to have a tip guard on a 36" bar.


----------



## rarefish383

This is the Super 1050 that the 36" bar above came on. The bar on it is a 45". It was still running great when I put it on the shelf. The last time I tried to start it, it ran on a prime, but didn't draw from the tank. maybe I'll try again tomorrow?


----------



## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> Yeah I can't imagine oak being good for a handle.
> 
> Arbtalk, hit reply, then 'click to add file' and select what you want


I'll try that again. I tried this morning and it didn't work. I was thinking the Trans Atlantic cable ate it. I was posting pics fine a few months ago?


----------



## bigbadbob

Cleaned up nice


----------



## Esq1997

My first fail as an axeman. While driving a wedge into this older FS axe (which appears to be folded metal), a small crack appeared at the seam. Not sure what to do as I’m not a welder.


----------



## Esq1997

The crack might have been there but went unnoticed until I hung the axehead.


----------



## Esq1997

I filed the top to get a better look.


----------



## Esq1997




----------



## Woodslasher

Find someone who can weld and have them slot it and weld it with a 7018 rod.


----------



## Esq1997

I wish I knew someone or some business that could weld it. Do you know of anyone on this forum that does that type of work? I live in Massachusetts and know of nobody who restores and/or fixes vintage axes. I'd hate to have to scrap this axehead.


----------



## Woodslasher

@srcarr52 does welding, maybe he could do it.


----------



## rarefish383

Esq1997 said:


> I wish I knew someone or some business that could weld it. Do you know of anyone on this forum that does that type of work? I live in Massachusetts and know of nobody who restores and/or fixes vintage axes. I'd hate to have to scrap this axehead.


Any welding shop can do that. I had a WWI German bayonet I used for digging when I was metal detecting. Snapped the blade in half. Took it to the machine shop two of my roommates worked in. They welded it back together and used it another twenty years. I usually toss those, but it would be an easy fix.


----------



## LondonNeil

Just been gifted this. I can't quite make our the name although there's enough there to make it feel like I should! It think it's something modern, it's just painted, but condition is pretty good other than a badly mushroomed poll. Handle remnants still firmly epoxy/bonded in. Bit of a bruiser at 6lbs. It was found in a wood pile apparently, I think perhaps it had been used as a wedge, maybe after the handle broke, and the beating has mushroomed the poll but the eye is fine as the handle is firm.

It'll take a while to get to it.... I've got numerous others to do.... But should be easy enough once I've got the head off the handle. Any tips on getting those surebond/epoxy handles out? Drill holes then drive out the he remnants I guess?


----------



## Esq1997

I recently had an axe head with epoxy. Just drilled it and used a drift to drive the wood out. Good score.


----------



## Lowhog

*United States Forest Service True Temper Flint edge Western pattern I found without a handle. Question is would you repaint it or leave the history?*


----------



## Esq1997

I’d leave it. Nice find.


----------



## Whiskers

Here’s a few I picked up recently. I really like the BBB cruiser, I don’t run across many cruisers. The painted Norlund seems to be in great shape, I’ll know more once I strip it.


----------



## wcorey

Thought you guy’s might like this, from today at the local flea market... guy was a collector and seemed pretty knowledgeable about what he had, said they were excess from his collection.


----------



## GoBigRed

Found this girl when I went to look at a few Pro Mac 850s . Couldn’t get the saws at a price a wanted but I did get this girl for $10. She’ll cut.


----------



## rarefish383

Lowhog said:


> *United States Forest Service True Temper Flint edge Western pattern I found without a handle. Question is would you repaint it or leave the history?*


Oh my, that is beautiful as is, I'd leave it be!


----------



## Be Stihl

Well I got an old axe that belonged to my grandpa, it was dug up while doing some excavation. An uncle stuck an old cracked handle in it and passed it on to me. Plumb 35.





So I went and got a cheap hardware store hickory handle. I practiced on the hang, may put a better handle on it later. Probably will use it to split with, don’t think I will ever fell a tree with it. So how did I do, honestly?






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## LondonNeil

From what I can see on that view and on my phone the fit is good but can't see much from they view. They handle may be short lived though, the grain runs out badly amount is length and it will likely split along the grain as a result


----------



## H-Ranch

I thought the same as Neil for long life on the handle, but I do find the grain interesting and I think it looks great for a seldom/lightly used tool. You also did well for cleaning up the head to make it functional without removing too much material.


----------



## LondonNeil

It does look nice doesn't it! That reminds me of another reason it likely won't last, it's got a lot of heart wood in it. Ideally the handle alike be all sap wood, but that matters much less than the grain run out


----------



## djg james

I inherited a medium sized hatchet from a next door neighbor to where I grew up. I like it a lot because of its weight and use it as my log marking hatchet. I don't remember if I broke the handle or if I got it without a handle, but I put a new one on it. I've got several wedges in it, but for the life of me, I can't keep the head from slipping.

I think I remember from a shop class many, many years ago something about soaking the head and handle in an oil bath for a period of time to help the wood swell. Anything to it? Or am I remembering wrong?


----------



## cat10ken

My old grade boss would soak his hatchet in a coffee can of antifreeze; that way it wouldn't dry out.


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## LondonNeil

Lots of people say soak in a bucket of water to swell the handle. It may well work for a week, but not long


----------



## Be Stihl

Thanks for the reply’s. The cheap handle was burnt and covered in shellac, so I removed it and shaped it down to an octagon. Funny thing is the purchase end of the handle was white but punky I think. When I applied BLO it turned very dark like heart wood. But the top by the bit is for sure heart wood, and the grain is almost 90 degrees off. I guess now I feel more comfortable to get a better handle and hang it.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## LondonNeil

from that photo it looks an excellent fit that you achieved. the grain across the eye isn't so bad, its the run out along the length of the handle that is bad, you really need it to go straight up and down


----------



## Esq1997

Good afternoon-
It’s been a while since I posted my new finds. Just acquired a few old splitting mauls. Nothing exciting but they were free. Anyway, I cleaned up my first one and cannot identify the makers mark. Any help would be appreciated.
John


----------



## Woodslasher

Esq1997 said:


> Good afternoon-
> It’s been a while since I posted my new finds. Just acquired a few old splitting mauls. Nothing exciting but they were free. Anyway, I cleaned up my first one and cannot identify the makers mark. Any help would be appreciated.
> John
> 
> View attachment 927194
> View attachment 927195
> View attachment 927194
> View attachment 927196


Woodings-Verona Tools


----------



## Esq1997

Woodslasher said:


> Woodings-Verona Tools


Thanks! Any idea as to age? Quality? It was on a beat up hickory handle with a metal insert in the eye.


----------



## Woodslasher

Esq1997 said:


> Thanks! Any idea as to age? Quality? It was on a beat up hickory handle with a metal insert in the eye.


I believe the 70's or 80's was when "Wear safety glasses" was first stamped on tools, so I'd guess somewhere around the mid to late 80's.


----------



## rarefish383

First auction I've been to in a while. Got out bid on a very nice Plumb single, not so much as a scratch on the poll, and a very nice Keen Cutter double. I did get this True Temper Kelly Perfect for $10, and a box lot with the no name double, brush ax , yellow snatch block, and a very rusty shingle hatchet(not pictured. ) All in all. a good day.


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## rarefish383

OOPS, that was Kelly Works, not Kelly perfect.


----------



## rarefish383

I didn't notice the brush hook was a Collins, till I saw the pic.


----------



## LondonNeil

and the little 170?

what's that at the end of the haft? a diy palm swell? not sure it would be too comfy!


----------



## LondonNeil

I forgot to say, the same guy that gifted me the big and modern head back in june gifted a teenie hatchet to me. Same story, found it in the wood pile of the house he'f moved to. similar condition, eye and everything fine, edge has some nicks but will clean up, little bit of mushrooming to the poll but not loads. This one was a little rusty but i gave it a rub with my palm and could clearly read the maker's name up at the poll. Elwell  That's one of the best British makes. I'll tidy it up and hang it and make it look nice, its one of those dinky hatchets that i find no use at all but it'll look nice. Think i might try cold bluing it perhaps.


----------



## rarefish383

The 170 I bought new a few years back.

I think that guy used to play Lacrosse. We used to put a few wraps of white surgical tape on the butts of our sticks, it helped. I don't know about that axe though, the handle is quite short. Shorter than it looks. The palm swell is leather with small nails.


----------



## Marine5068

rarefish383 said:


> The 170 I bought new a few years back.
> 
> I think that guy used to play Lacrosse. We used to put a few wraps of white surgical tape on the butts of our sticks, it helped. I don't know about that axe though, the handle is quite short. Shorter than it looks. The palm swell is leather with small nails.


I used to do the hockey tape on the end of my hockey sticks and sometimes on the top of the lacrosse sticks.
Actually I used to play lots of lacrosse from 10-32 years old. Both field and box lacrosse.
Was on many Ontario National league teams in fact.
The nails wouldn't feel good on any of my lacrosse sticks. I liked the plastic caps that came on the butt ends actually.
Had lots of different shafts for my sticks. Ash shafts for box so you can cross check without bending it and field lacrosse we used aluminum shafts, but I did have a Titanium one too. It was tough and if I remember it cost $100 at that time.
Have all my sticks still and I still coach the younger kids from time to time.
Ah, the good ol days.


----------



## rarefish383

Marine5068 said:


> I used to do the hockey tape on the end of my hockey sticks and sometimes on the top of the lacrosse sticks.
> Actually I used to play lots of lacrosse from 10-32 years old. Both field and box lacrosse.
> Was on many Ontario National league teams in fact.
> The nails wouldn't feel good on any of my lacrosse sticks. I liked the plastic caps that came on the butt ends actually.
> Had lots of different shafts for my sticks. Ash shafts for box so you can cross check without bending it and field lacrosse we used aluminum shafts, but I did have a Titanium one too. It was tough and if I remember it cost $100 at that time.
> Have all my sticks still and I still coach the younger kids from time to time.
> Ah, the good ol days.


You're either younger than me, or continued to play into the modern era. Being in MD, all of our sticks came from Bacharach Rasin, Hickory handles, gut and leather pockets. The last year I played was the first year for Box Lacrosse. I played for a private school in Southern MD, Charlotte Hall Military Academy. Box Lacrosse teams were trying to recruit players, and our coach told us that if anyone tried playing for one of those teams over summer, he'd have us thrown out of school. Playing for a pro team would void any scholarship offers. MD U and Hopkins had good teams, but the sport wasn't played in many high schools then. We mostly played Junior Collages. One of the last games of the year a guy slashed me across the back of the head, major concussion. Doctors said I couldn't play contact sports anymore. So, over the summer I told my parents I'd like to go back to public school where they had girls. That was the end of my Lacrosse days. Got into hot rods and muscle cars, I can still play with them. Just a year or so ago I sold my last two BR sticks, got $60 each for them.


----------



## muad

Any ideas on this head? Picked it up at a local antique/junk shop. Has phantom bevels. I can't make out the markings, and this pic ain't the best.


----------



## Woodslasher

muad said:


> Any ideas on this head? Picked it up at a local antique/junk shop. Has phantom bevels. I can't make out the markings, and this pic ain't the best.
> View attachment 934169


A. A. & T. Co/American Axe and Tool Co


----------



## muad

Woodslasher said:


> A. A. & T. Co/American Axe and Tool Co


Thanks! Never heard of them, off to google them. 

Hoping to bring it back to life. Is really rusty.


----------



## muad

I can see the word Glass too, so looks like you're right on the money. I wonder how old it is.


----------



## Be Stihl

Got a new 32” handle from Beaver Tooth handles out of TN. I wasn’t pleased with the last one I got from the hardware store. Very beautiful grain and feels dense, I think it is going to be a really good fit. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## muad

Looks awesome.


----------



## LondonNeil

Yes they looks a good handle and a good fit


----------



## Esq1997

Does anyone have any idea what this “indentation “ is halfway between the bit and the poll is. Maybe a forge mark?


----------



## LondonNeil

My guess, the result of the forging/welding the hard steel around the softer tougher steel


----------



## Esq1997

Thanks. That’s what I thought. Was thinking about picking it up but didn’t want to buy a repaired axe, if that’s what it is.


----------



## LondonNeil

I'm not sure if it will have been like that from new or repaired. A decent blacksmith used to repair a worn axe by replacing the hardened steel chunk, good as new again, it could be that had happened. I don't know enough to tell and can only guess really.


----------



## abbott295

At my parents' estate auction last Saturday, Oct 23, a yard cart with about 20 or so axes in it went for $160, I think it was. 








Abbott Auction October 2021 - janabbottphoto


The estate auction of Bill Abbott's farm was conducted Oct. 23, 2021. The Abbott cousins made the event a reunion for their generation.




janabbottphoto.smugmug.com












Abbott Auction October 2021 - janabbottphoto


The estate auction of Bill Abbott's farm was conducted Oct. 23, 2021. The Abbott cousins made the event a reunion for their generation.




janabbottphoto.smugmug.com




The green cart was the axes. The red cart had hatchets and other stuff. sold for $60.


----------



## gumneck

abbott295 said:


> At my parents' estate auction last Saturday, Oct 23, a yard cart with about 20 or so axes in it went for $160, I think it was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abbott Auction October 2021 - janabbottphoto
> 
> 
> The estate auction of Bill Abbott's farm was conducted Oct. 23, 2021. The Abbott cousins made the event a reunion for their generation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> janabbottphoto.smugmug.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abbott Auction October 2021 - janabbottphoto
> 
> 
> The estate auction of Bill Abbott's farm was conducted Oct. 23, 2021. The Abbott cousins made the event a reunion for their generation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> janabbottphoto.smugmug.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The green cart was the axes. The red cart had hatchets and other stuff. sold for $60.


Wow....a lot of lifetimes worth of stuff there. Must of been tough for ya


----------



## abbott295

This felt more like an ending than even their funerals did. But there is still stuff in the house yet; there will probably be a yard sale sometime next year. My parents put everything into a trust so my sister as executrix and the trustee are dealing with getting the estate liquidated and into the trust. My parents' main goal in life and death was to keep taxes as low as possible. This is their way.

My dad and his brother grew up with two girl cousins on farms a half mile apart. From stories I used to hear, the older girl was a bit of a ringleader in getting the boys in trouble; things involving silos, haymows, light sockets, livestock, etc. The older cousin just died Wednesday, just days before her 97th birthday. She was the last of them. Now she can get them in trouble up there.


----------



## pioneer saws

Latest addition, Plumb 4.5lb, a bit rough from someones sharpening attemps.


----------



## muad

Not really a restoration, but I scored this recently on eBay. WWII Plumb Hatchet. Merges two of my favorite hobbies.


----------



## rarefish383

Be Stihl said:


> Got a new 32” handle from Beaver Tooth handles out of TN. I wasn’t pleased with the last one I got from the hardware store. Very beautiful grain and feels dense, I think it is going to be a really good fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Beautiful job, love the hang!


----------



## Be Stihl

rarefish383 said:


> Beautiful job, love the hang!



Sorry for the late response, been busy feeding the old stove. 
Thank you for the compliment, it held up great until I was splitting and a rain storm came through. The head moved about 1/4”, so after it dried again I pounded it on a little tighter and added a metal wedge. Been solid since. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gumneck

For 10 buckaroonies I couldn't resist this evening. Double bits never seem to come up around here...tonight, I'm a winner!


----------



## 3000 FPS

Make sure you show some pics of the axe after the cleanup. Congrats on your find.


----------



## gumneck

Will do.


----------



## gumneck

Took the pics outside with cloudy conditions and no flash I bet, cuz these pics suck. Just a light sanding on the handle and cheek poker on the head. That's all this is gonna get. Only visible marking is a big "3" and a little "2" beside it.


----------



## LondonNeil

3Lb 2Oz ? it looks great, really nice!


----------



## 3000 FPS

LondonNeil said:


> 3Lb 2Oz ? it looks great, really nice!


Probably more like 3lb and 2 oz.


----------



## samhop

had this rattling round my brain for a bit

Attachments​



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IMG_20220311_160006.jpg
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## 3000 FPS

That is pretty neat looking. Did you make that from scratch.


----------



## samhop

3000 FPS said:


> That is pretty neat looking. Did you make that from scratch.


cut a double axe head in half in kind of a relaxed S patern then cut the tip of and flipped it around and welded it back on so the hook pointed back. the side i handled got a little more angle.


----------



## gumneck

3 lbs 2 oz. I would say feels about right. If I walk in the bathroom to weigh the axe on the scale it may frighten my lady.


----------



## 3000 FPS

samhop said:


> cut a double axe head in half in kind of a relaxed S patern then cut the tip of and flipped it around and welded it back on so the hook pointed back. the side i handled got a little more angle.


What did you use for welding it up. You cannot tell from the pics.


----------



## samhop

3000 FPS said:


> What did you use for welding it up. You cannot tell from the pics.


mig 
you can see some porosity on the one with no handle


----------



## LondonNeil

What did you use to cut it?
It's neat btw.


----------



## samhop

LondonNeil said:


> What did you use to cut it?
> It's neat btw.


plasma but oxy/gas would work


----------



## 3000 FPS

This is a rusted up axe head I finished up about 2 weeks ago. When I cut into it to get the shape I wanted I found a large crack at the front of the eye. I had to weld that up.


----------



## Woodslasher

3000 FPS said:


> Probably more like 3lb and 2 oz.


I'm a little late to the game, but no. Axe manufacturers used a 1/4lb system for those stamps, so a big 3 little 2 is 3 and 2/4lbs, or 3lbs 8ozs.


----------



## rarefish383

gumneck said:


> 3 lbs 2 oz. I would say feels about right. If I walk in the bathroom to weigh the axe on the scale it may frighten my lady.


My kids kept saying if I keep bringing guys home off of websites, I
was going to wind up bringing home an axe murder. I said, "Don't you know, your mom IS the axe murder!"


----------



## 3000 FPS

rarefish383 said:


> My kids kept saying if I keep bringing guys home off of websites, I
> was going to wind up bringing home an axe murder. I said, "Don't you know, your mom IS the axe murder!"


And a mighty fine axe you have there.


----------



## gumneck

rarefish383 said:


> My kids kept saying if I keep bringing guys home off of websites, I
> was going to wind up bringing home an axe murder. I said, "Don't you know, your mom IS the axe murder!"


That cracked me up....


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## rarefish383

3000 FPS said:


> And a mighty fine axe you have there.


Thanks, Multifaceted made that octagonal handle for me. He’s been real busy since they made him production manager. Think I’ll give him a call.


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## LondonNeil

LondonNeil said:


> I'm on a roll! Oh yeah! One for Joe, I hope you feel its a fair job @rarefish383
> View attachment 838681
> 
> 
> View attachment 838702
> 
> 
> 28" ash handle, a cheap one but with decent grain alignment it seems. I decided to use this as it was a cheap handle to practice hanging a Jersey on (its my first, and i wasn't sure how easy it would be) but decent enough that hopefully it won't break for a while. As it was the hang seemed ok, so when it does break the straight 28" Smedberg hickory stick will be used.


It's time for that 28" Smedberg as the the cheap ash handle snapped a couple of inches down from the head a week ago. It's been used a great deal in the nearly two years though. I found the weight and length good for easy splitting stuff and I've had an absurd amount of Oak in that time which I always love splitting. Head was still rock solid so the hang was good.


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## djg james

I've got a small hatchet I use to mark firewood lengths on logs before bucking. Total weight is 25 oz so the head alone probably only weighs a pound. Don't know anything about it and the only mark is "Shapleigh". Any info about it?


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## rarefish383

Well, it's not an Axe, but it is a Collins. A Collins Legitimus #871. I went by my local auction and it was on the first table. Only problem was the auctioneer put it with another knife, as one lot. I was afraid some young guy would out bid me for the big dagger and just throw the old Collins away. I got lucky and won the bid for both, for $26. I visit Allaboutpocketknives every month. They have a member give away. I'm donating the Jim Frost Dagger to one of the up coming give aways. Here's the Collins.


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## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> It's time for that 28" Smedberg as the the cheap ash handle snapped a couple of inches down from the head a week ago. It's been used a great deal in the nearly two years though. I found the weight and length good for easy splitting stuff and I've had an absurd amount of Oak in that time which I always love splitting. Head was still rock solid so the hang was good.


Hey, Neil. Looks good, better than when I found it! I haven't found many axes since covid struck. Most of the auctions I go to have gone "All On Line", and don't plan on going back to live sales. You can still go in and preview stuff, but I hate to make 2 or 3 trips to look at things, and then have to wait to see how the bidding goes


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## LondonNeil

What is that Collins Joe? Looks like some kind of machete.


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## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> What is that Collins Joe? Looks like some kind of machete.


Yep, a machete. Only one I've ever seen. I saw the sticker/tag from a distance, but I didn't see the stamped logo on the other side till I picked it up, and took it outside in better light. Made my day when I saw the crown and hammer, and Legitimus.

Somewhere I read that most of their machete's were made for the South American market. It looks like the black tag on this one is in Spanish.


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## Real1shepherd

Collins is an interesting story. Great axes always, but sold to Black & Decker in the 60's and shut their doors forever. B&D continued to sell Collins axes. The story gets muddy at this point as to who and where they were made. I have quite a few Collins heads from the 70's.....all have proven to be hard workers and no issues. Nothing fancy for sure like the northern Euro stuff.....just everyday working man stuff of good value. 

Which makes me wonder what the pre-B&D Collins were like? 

Kevin


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## rarefish383

Real1shepherd said:


> Collins is an interesting story. Great axes always, but sold to Black & Decker in the 60's and shut their doors forever. B&D continued to sell Collins axes. The story gets muddy at this point as to who and where they were made. I have quite a few Collins heads from the 70's.....all have proven to be hard workers and no issues. Nothing fancy for sure like the northern Euro stuff.....just everyday working man stuff of good value.
> 
> Which makes me wonder what the pre-B&D Collins were like?
> 
> Kevin


This is a Collins 3 1/2 that my Dad bought back in the 50's or 60's. Small climbing, and brushing saws hadn't come out yet, and when they did start to find their way onto job sites, many of the workers were so used to limbing up trees with axes, they wouldn't touch a chainsaw. Dad would buy them by the case. When we found this one it was wrapped up in a sheet of burlap, in the rafters of his barn. That was probably 40 years ago. It was cool, for sure, but just an old tool with no special meaning. So, we just set it against a post and it sat there for another 20 years. When we first found it, it had 100% of blueing on both sides and the handle was pristine. When Mom and Dad moved and I found it again, most of the bluing was gone from one side, and the "Genuine Collins Hickory" on the handle had faded some. I think I may have split some straight grained Oak with it just for fun. I had a 40HP wood splitter so didn't do much hand splitting. It's still in nice condition and would be the last ax I'd sell. I have my wife's grandfathers 1900's American Beauty in nice shape also, it would be next to last to go.


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## rarefish383

It's hard to see in the close up of "Collins", but the "Crown and Hammer" is there, and "Legitimus", is under Collins. If I remember correctly, Collins didn't Copy Right their name, so every fly by night foundry was putting out axes with some variant of Collins on them, cashing in on Collins reputation. When they finally did copy right the name they put Legitimus under it to prove it was a legitimate Collins.


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## rarefish383

Here's one version of the Collins Crown and Hammer. It's from the above Machete.


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## copen

This is pretty cool if you haven't already seen it.


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## Real1shepherd

Are those guys smoking?? Geeeeze.....no way you could make any money today with all those hand steps in forging the axe. 

No wonder those old axe heads are so sought after. 

Kevin


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## abbott295

What it says in Spanish is:
Look for the stamp
Collins and co.
Hartford
On every tool
If you want the 
Genuine (legitimate) from 
Collins

And I can't make out all of the last line at the bottom. What I can read says,
'...the legitimate ones have the...'


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## CatMan Fetters

Couldn’t find a nice ax handle so decided to make one, after 30 years I finally broke the handle lol.


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## rarefish383

abbott295 said:


> View attachment 1001493
> 
> 
> What it says in Spanish is:
> Look for the stamp
> Collins and co.
> Hartford
> On every tool
> If you want the
> Genuine (legitimate) from
> Collins
> 
> And I can't make out all of the last line at the bottom. What I can read says,
> '...the legitimate ones have the...'


Thanks, the one I found on line had another black tag. You can see a line where it attached to the one here, and the brown curved stain, where there is less rust, where it peeled off this one. When it says, "Look for the stamp", I assume they mean the stamp in the metal on the other side, not just the sticker?


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## rarefish383

copen said:


> This is pretty cool if you haven't already seen it.



My favorite part is how they trim the handle sticking through the eye. Not sticking an inch through with a fat wedge to spread it. None of my vintage axes have the handles sticking out proud of the metal. Some are 100 years old and they are still tight.


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## Real1shepherd

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=reheading+an+axe#kpvalbx=_MlDKYti5F52O0PEPwI2rsAI16



This kid is pretty good, but a kid after all. Hanging an axe is an art. Not to promote Buckin' Billy for anything, but he knows how to do this as well.

It's all in beating it in, removing, shaving the curl, , beating in, removing again and shave curl, watching the head alignment on the handle, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat. I've never done one to my satisfaction that didn't take at least 25 minutes. But then again, I've never had a handle get loose if I put the time into it.

I trim flush to the head. This leaving some proud stuff is something the Millennials and younger are promoting. If you did the job correctly, It shouldn't make any difference in tightness if it's proud or flush.

Kevin


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## rarefish383

Real1shepherd said:


> https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=reheading+an+axe#kpvalbx=_MlDKYti5F52O0PEPwI2rsAI16
> 
> 
> 
> This kid is pretty good, but a kid after all. Hanging an axe is an art. Not to promote Buckin' Billy for anything, but he knows how to do this as well.
> 
> It's all in beating it in, removing, shaving the curl, , beating in, removing again and shave curl, watching the head alignment on the handle, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat. I've never done one to my satisfaction that didn't take at least 25 minutes. But then again, I've never had a handle get loose if I put the time into it.
> 
> I trim flush to the head. This leaving some proud stuff is something the Millennials and younger are promoting. If you did the job correctly, It shouldn't make any difference in tightness if it's proud or flush.
> 
> Kevin


I agree it’s a young persons idea of what looks cool. Just shows they never had to use an axe past playing with it. It’s just something else to catch splinters while splitting, and break chips off of the haft. The only axe in my collection that sits proud to the head is my British Elwell, that the head slides on a round, tapered haft like a grubbing hoe/matax.


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## rupedoggy

I have this up on Ebay for starting $10 bid. I don't see many marked axes that are not beat, chipped or over filed/ground.


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## TRTermite

rupedoggy said:


> I have this up on Ebay for starting $10 bid. I don't see many marked axes that are not beat, chipped or over filed/ground.


Homesteader I have one with original handle. GLWS


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## rupedoggy

Do they call that a bow tie or just me?


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## TRTermite

rupedoggy said:


> Do they call that a bow tie or just me?


I have always considered it a nickname, but I know very little about all of the hysterical stuff on axes.


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## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> What is that Collins Joe? Looks like some kind of machete.


Neil, that's one heck of a nice Collins @rupedoggy just put on the bay. Don't find many like that!


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## LondonNeil

I thought that Joe. If only I'd known it was for sale I could have made an offer, avoided eBay's rather high fees, and the real killer with eBay international, the shipping and import fees... So much easier to write, 'gift, $10 value' and post via parcel monkey or parcel 2go.


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## rupedoggy

This is a yard sale find. B3 is the only id. Does anybody have any info on this?


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## Plowmaster

Made this for the neighbor over the weekend... First time using gun bluing on axe/pick head...I really like the finish. Let's see how long it lasts


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## rarefish383

Plowmaster said:


> Made this for the neighbor over the weekend... First time using gun bluing on axe/pick head...I really like the finish. Let's see how long it lasts


I think it should hold up well. I Browned the head on my throwing axe and it's held up several years.


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## Plowmaster

Got this boys axe done for a friend... He does bushcraft outings with his kids.this is an excellent axe... had to move it down about 3/4 of an inch and fill front of eye. It was pretty beat but handle was awsome. Fixed a couple bad spots on handle...


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## Plowmaster

Hope these load


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## Plowmaster

It has 3 sets of "teeth" on the inside of eye. Anyone ever run across this before?? I have had several with 2 sets... thinking this was very old axe.


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## rupedoggy

Found at a neighbors.
Nice vintage axe head. This was made in W. Germany by C.H. and the C.H. is Carl Helsper, Wuppertal-Küllenhahn which became HelkoThe helko enterprise was started by a member of the Helsper family in 1844 in Cronenberg, now a district of Wuppertal. For many years, it was referred to as the Helsper Werkzeugfabrik, or Helsper Tool Factory. The Helsper Werkzeugfabrik quickly earned a reputation throughout Europe as a manufacturer of high quality woodworking tools, and by the early 20th Century had already begun exporting axes to Africa, Asia, and the Americas."...In the early thirties, a partner named Kotthaus joined the enterprise, and the company became known as helko (helsper / kotthaus). When helko took over the Carl Helsper Werkzeugfabrik in the early sixties, the complete company name in the German Register of Commerce became Carl & Aug. Helsper GmbH & Co., KG, helko–werk. Since then, the company has continued to improve the quality of its products, and helko axes and hatchets are now recognized worldwide as some of the finest woodworking tools available.


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## Marine5068

rarefish383 said:


> Well, it's not an Axe, but it is a Collins. A Collins Legitimus #871. I went by my local auction and it was on the first table. Only problem was the auctioneer put it with another knife, as one lot. I was afraid some young guy would out bid me for the big dagger and just throw the old Collins away. I got lucky and won the bid for both, for $26. I visit Allaboutpocketknives every month. They have a member give away. I'm donating the Jim Frost Dagger to one of the up coming give aways. Here's the Collins.


I've got my Grandfather's "Martindale" machete made in England and it looks very similar in shape to that one. Brought it back from Grenada, West Indies.
It's hanging downstairs somewhere. I'll have to look for it for a pic and post.
Stamp has an Alligator on it was used primarily for cutting sugar cane in the Caribbean. Also used for clearing brush. Plants grow fast in the tropics.


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## rarefish383

rupedoggy said:


> View attachment 1003036
> View attachment 1003037
> View attachment 1003038
> 
> This is a yard sale find. B3 is the only id. Does anybody have any info o





rupedoggy said:


> View attachment 1003036
> View attachment 1003037
> View attachment 1003038
> 
> This is a yard sale find. B3 is the only id. Does anybody have any info on this?


I thought I had one that looked close to that one. i just found it out in my wood shed. It's a Stanley. After getting it, it looks a bit longer than yours?


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## rarefish383

I'm guessing that the M is for Mann. Mann bought out Collins in 1966 and it is thought that Collins was making the Stanley axes.


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## rupedoggy

Hard to read but says Kelly true temper and flint edge. Garage sale find with broken handle and chip out of edge but cheap and I like double bits!


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## rarefish383

rupedoggy said:


> View attachment 1015600
> 
> Hard to read but says Kelly true temper and flint edge. Garage sale find with broken handle and chip out of edge but cheap and I like double bits!


I could live with that little chip. I pass most axes that have been ground, that one is PURDY.


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## rupedoggy

Well got another axe today and am not sure I ever heard of the brand. It says all trade and 3 1\2 pounds and Japan. The pictures aren't the best but wanted to share. Any info appreciated.


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## rupedoggy

Another good day and three axes. Take a look. A little brushing and a couple wedges and they are tight.


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## tfp

Just started this project. A while back I found an axe head in a hollow stump I thought we'd lost. Re-sawed a slab of Queensland Maple (_Flindersia spp._) I had in the wood room. Drew a pattern on based on a Gransfors Scandinavian Forest Axe. Roughed it out on the bandsaw, then cleaned it up on the spindle sander. Now the hard work begins - getting the sucker to fit and be square to the handle. Fingers crossed.


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## tfp

I've almost finished re-handling a Brades slating hammer that has new life as a hatchet for my nephew. The eye was very rusty and pitted made for some problems. The handle is ironbark.


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## rupedoggy

GOOD ONE!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## svk

Here’s an old axe head that my daughter found in the dirt at my cabin. There was a logging camp on this site in 1912 and the blacksmith shop burned down (with the blacksmith inside, but that’s another story).

I stripped the rust with a vinegar bath and then seasoned it like I season my cast iron skillets. I will put this on the wall of the cabin but I’m trying to decide if I should sharpen the edges first or not.


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## rupedoggy

Looks good just the way it is. Cracked so don't think it will be a user but will make a great wall decoration


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## svk

rupedoggy said:


> Looks good just the way it is. Cracked so don't think it will be a user but will make a great wall decoration


Yes sir!


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## rarefish383

You don't want anything sharp on the wall. An old friends roommate brought back a collection of some wicked knives from Vietnam. He had duct tape over the edges. I asked why? He said the very first thing people would do is walk up to the wall and run their finger down the blade, cutting them to the bone.


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## svk

rarefish383 said:


> You don't want anything sharp on the wall. An old friends roommate brought back a collection of some wicked knives from Vietnam. He had duct tape over the edges. I asked why? He said the very first thing people would do is walk up to the wall and run their finger down the blade, cutting them to the bone.


I was thinking about that very same thing!


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## Vibes

svk said:


> Welcome to the site! Really nice collection you have!


I came across a knot clipper that some Neanderthal tried cutting a chain with. It has a tip cracked off. I'm still going to redo it. The handle is split. I never really checked it out until I needed to chop roots out of a ditch I was digging and realized how well it cut. They made Mann in Huntington Pa. if I'm not mistaken. What's left of that split handle is going to be made into a handle for a GTW hatchet.


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## GrizG

I think I posted this elsewhere in the past but not here. I found this axe in the equipment shed of the house I bought about 28 years ago. It is a bigger axe than I needed so I left it sitting there. Then I saw a couple Black Ravens being fawned over on YouTube a few years ago and said to myself... "Geez, I think I've got one of those." I retrieved it from the shed, wiped it off, and saw that there was still paint in areas of the graphic. The handle had been replaced but not hung well so I rehung it with the same handle. The cutting edge wasn't sharp sharp but it also wasn't beat up.


P.S. These photos were taken before I rehung it with the same handle... it sits down a lot more on the handle now.









I just took this photo... post rehang!


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## GrizG

I grabbed this no name head off Craigslist while in the same neighborhood picking up another item... I made the handle out of ash. Boiled linseed oil finish. I also made the sheath.

P.S. I intentionally oriented the grain 90° to what is considered "proper" to see if it made any difference to performance and longevity. Thus far it hasn't.


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## PEK

Nice job. All my splitters and axes I coated in boiled linseed.


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## rupedoggy

That black raven is a DANDY!


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## river of smoak

Not nearly as nice as that raven but here's an unknown head that I got at an estate sale for 2 bucks . 7 lbs , 8.25 inches long . Any ideas on the manufacturer ?


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## stillusingstihl

dancan said:


> Yup , new resto thread .
> 
> Here's a 3 1/5 lb 5$ yard sale find .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now has a new 30" piece of hickory .


Lovely handle!


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## rupedoggy

Good one!


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## LondonNeil

That is a pretty find Steve! That black raven is great too


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