# New Rope (poison ivy) break in



## bottlefed89 (Sep 26, 2005)

Well I got some new gear today after having all of mine stolen. I got 150' of poison ivy, and noticed in the sherrill catalog that it said breakin required. What do I need to do to properly break it in??
thanks
greg


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## fattyphatcakes (Sep 26, 2005)

Ive found that just running a rope over a rough barked tree a few times helps soften up the surface a bit, but I'm afraid you just have to climb on it.


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## Tree Machine (Sep 26, 2005)

Climb the crap out of it.


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## Bermie (Sep 26, 2005)

What's with calling a rope 'poison ivy'?
I thought you'd got poison ivy all over it!!


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## puwer (Sep 26, 2005)

Nice rope, been working on the edelrid rainbow is recent months and had a play on the ivy this weekend. I won't be changing but another one to add to the "had a go on that one" list.

Uk arbs are in a great position at this time to choose from a huge number of different ropes and harnesses.


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## pmuscato (Sep 26, 2005)

I'm climbing on Poison Ivy, I love it didn't seem to need breakin in. A few long repells should milk it out for you.


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## moss (Sep 26, 2005)

Been climbing on PI for 6 months, no break-in required out of the box as far as how it behaves with a friction hitch. No need to drag it over rough bark, it holds the hitch just fine. The sheath (it's a kermantle) milked quite a bit after the first 10 climbs or so. It settled down after that, no problems since. Notice in the photo how smooth the rope surface is after plenty of use. If anything the rope is "faster" now than when it was new.
-moss


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## Tom Dunlap (Sep 26, 2005)

Why did you PI users choose PI not Blaze?

Blaze is the same rope but it's just a little smaller diameter.


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## pmuscato (Sep 26, 2005)

I like 1/2" or as close as i can get.


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## moss (Sep 26, 2005)

Same here, my hands like the diameter of PI. I checked out Blaze and thought it was too thin. Also I'm a rec climber and like the way PI blends in the woods.
-moss


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## BostonBull (Sep 26, 2005)

moss said:


> I'm a rec climber and like the way PI blends in the woods.
> -moss



Thats the exact reasonb I DONT like the PI. It blends in too much. I like to be able to see my rope no matter what. Black and green rope blends in a little too much for my liking. I am not saying I will not see the rope in front of me but it may "get lost" in the canopy or worse yet get thrown in the chipper by a groundhand who doesnt see it in the pile of branches.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Sep 26, 2005)

I like a bright rope too, I have a hank of Velosity right now and like it a lot.

Small dia. and seems to have a bit of a "tack" to it so I get an easier footlock.

I like the small DIa. because the long hanks are SOOO much easier to pull through a tree.

Now I've gotten to the point where I do not like 1/2 inch rope.


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## Stumper (Sep 26, 2005)

I bought the PI because it was 11.5mm-Several people said that they found the extra .5 mm added a lot to the gripability and handling of the rope but that it still worked better in mechanical ascension devicescompared to larger ropes and had the advantage of lighter weight than most 1/2 inch ropes. I really like the PI except for the color and the horrible name. Re. breakin-the hand is great right out of the package but the cover milks-that is why it is melted on one end and not the other. Run it away from the melt for the first several climbs to get the cover milked. If anyone is listening" DON'T NAME ROPES AFTER HATED/POISONOUS PLANTS. The Green and Black is a handsome rope but it would be more appealing to most arbos if it were Chartreuse and Black , Orange and Black, or Red and Black. Personally I'd get a kick out Pink and Black-but Tom Dunlap and I might be the only straight men who would buy it.


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## Jim1NZ (Sep 26, 2005)

A couple of figure 8 decents helps softern rope up


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## Jim1NZ (Sep 26, 2005)

hahaha nice post stumper


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## bottlefed89 (Sep 26, 2005)

Well after using my pi today, I like it. I don't like the color. I also chose the PI over blaze because I liked the thickness a little better. To each his own. Mine didn't really seem to hold a hitch all that well at first, but got progressively better throughout the day.


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## moss (Sep 26, 2005)

BostonBull said:


> Thats the exact reasonb I DONT like the PI. It blends in too much. I like to be able to see my rope no matter what. Black and green rope blends in a little too much for my liking. I am not saying I will not see the rope in front of me but it may "get lost" in the canopy or worse yet get thrown in the chipper by a groundhand who doesnt see it in the pile of branches.



Makes sense, if I was a working arbo I'd want my ropes as visible as possible. Scary thought to get rope running into a chipper.


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## Jim1NZ (Sep 26, 2005)

Especially if you run a self feeding prussic!


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## seanlarkin (Jan 25, 2006)

*Poison Hivy*

A little sneak peak at a new product for 2006 we have....A new high-visibility Poison Ivy rope, we've named Poison Hi-vy. Same specs as the original PI, but now with bright green instead of black strands. Will be in stock soon.

-Sean

Please keep in mind that making this photo internet ready takes some of the "edge" off of the rope's true brightness.


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## Rygel (Jan 25, 2006)

OK this is the rope i think I'm gonna go with but i have a question also. Is the kermantle good around the tree? as in has a good wear properties? 
Do the standard pig tail ropes work good for the friction knots? As in non kermantle pig tail /kermantle rope.
I must say that true blue is the only rope i've climbed (is company supplied) and all they use is the snap tied to one end to make the pigtail and you use the end to make your knot. I'm wanting to learn some new techniques!


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## Lumberjack (Jan 25, 2006)

Velocity is a double braid, not a kernmantle. The fly is one of the few spliceable kernmantle ropes. Kernmantle ropes have a protective sheath, the core supports 90% of the weight or better. Basically a 16 strand turned inside out. Other examples of kernmantle lines would be Samsons Static Line, New Englands KMIII and I dont have one for Yale.

I have been climbing on mine since.. May?... and I am liking it. The "break in" commonly talked about is generally the cover milking, which mine did. It milked about 3% (6' in 200'). All it took to set my cover was 2 repells on traditional. This "set" the cover and the milking is done.

Running this line over a limb isnt wise IMO, just like any double braid isnt good for running over a crotch as it can and does improperly load the cover/core. The load is suppose to be an even split, half the strength in each, by adding friction to the cover running over a limb, you can increase the loading on the cover. I use a friction saver on this rope anytime I climb DdRT. I have wondered how our hitches interact with the double braid...


Tom, we talked briefly in Nashville about PI vrs 11mm. I have velocity and I can tell an difference, although for me, I really dont care at this point in life.


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## PTS (Jan 25, 2006)

That is a traditional climbing style. going to a split tail is virtually the same except where you tie your snap you do so with NO tail. Then you use a separate piece of rope which is attached using a Carabiner and then attached using your friction knot just like you did with your traditional style. This will prolongs the life of the rope. I was climbing traditional too until I got turned on to the split tail and as you watch your split tail wear it really makes you glad that you are not putting you climb line through that.

As far as other styles....That is an endless list. Different mechanical devices, and SRT,DbRT, hip thrust, footlock......

I recommend if you want to try new styles get with a group of climbers from different walks of life and watch what they are doing and figure out what works best for you.


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## Stumper (Jan 25, 2006)

Rygel, The PI will work great with your 'pigtail'- it ties on to itself with a prusik,tautline or Blake's hitch just fine. It also words well with tress cords and advanced hitches. I just picked up a hank of Velocity. It has a much firmer lay than the PI. I like the firm line but it doesn't lend itself as well to old school methods-I tried my old open prusik/corrected tautline on it with its own tail and it didn't grip well. A Blake's worked okay. I'm lookig forward to trying the Velocity with mechanical ascenders. The PI does it all well.


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## Lumberjack (Jan 25, 2006)

Stumper said:


> Rygel, The PI will work great with your 'pigtail'- it ties on to itself with a prusik,tautline or Blake's hitch just fine. It also words well with tress cords and advanced hitches. I just picked up a hank of Velocity. It has a much firmer lay than the PI. I like the firm line but it doesn't lend itself as well to old school methods-I tried my old open prusik/corrected tautline on it with its own tail and it didn't grip well. A Blake's worked okay. I'm lookig forward to trying the Velocity with mechanical ascenders. The PI does it all well.




The velocity does feel firmer, but to me it seems just as supple if not moreso than the PI.


PTS, there is really only 3 styles of climbing, SRT DDRT and DdRT(trad). Using mechanical devices doesnt change the funamentals of the climbing system and body thrusting, FLing, or using a pantin doesnt change it either. They are all different means to the same end for a given climbing setup. DDRT is mainly used for ascending, as well as SRT; DdRT is used for working. There are exceptions of course as Tom and others can attest.


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## jmack (Jan 26, 2006)

*blaze*



BostonBull said:


> Thats the exact reasonb I DONT like the PI. It blends in too much. I like to be able to see my rope no matter what. Black and green rope blends in a little too much for my liking. I am not saying I will not see the rope in front of me but it may "get lost" in the canopy or worse yet get thrown in the chipper by a groundhand who doesnt see it in the pile of branches.


 yeah it seemed way to dark for tree work groundies with saws might not see it in shadows, blaze is the way to go


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## Tree Machine (Jan 26, 2006)

Stumper said:


> I'm looking forward to trying the Velocity with mechanical ascenders.


Effortless, or as close as you can get, y'know, with gravity and all....


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## moss (Jan 26, 2006)

Lumberjack said:


> The velocity does feel firmer, but to me it seems just as supple if not moreso than the PI.



The PI firms up with use but remains supple enough for a hitch to behave properly. It's not as forgiving as a 16-strand in how you tune your Blake's, have to pay a little more attention to hitch tightness adjustment w/PI. If you're using a split-tail there is no issue there.
-moss


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## Lumberjack (Jan 26, 2006)

moss said:


> The PI firms up with use but remains supple enough for a hitch to behave properly. It's not as forgiving as a 16-strand in how you tune your Blake's, have to pay a little more attention to hitch tightness adjustment w/PI. If you're using a split-tail there is no issue there.
> -moss




I am using the hitch Mark C showed me in Nashville, a VT but instead of braids it has crosses, workes very well for me.

I have never tried using a blakes or tauntline on either the PI or Velocity so I can offer much input there.

And just to clarify, a "split tail" is a hitch tied with anything but the end of the rope. A TL can be tied using a split tail, same as a VT can. The term means the hitch isnt tied with the end of the rope, but a seperate peice of rope. If using the TL or blakes the rope should be equal in diameter, for advanced hitches it normally needs to be smaller, both with regards to the climbing line.


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## YikesRikes (Feb 7, 2006)

*breaking in rope?*

Hi guys...first post! I've been reading posts here for over a year.

I'm not a tree climber, I climb cell phone towers for a living (to change lightbulbs). This concept of breaking in a rope is a bit wierd to me. A rope should be good to go out of the box (or bag, or off the roll....whatever). What does it mean to "break it in?"

-Bret


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## Lumberjack (Feb 7, 2006)

Talking about the cover taking set getting longer than the core. Milking the cover to the end moves this slack to the end where it can be dealt with. Tree climbers are a picky bunch that dont like milking too much as it can effect the friction hitch.


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## YikesRikes (Feb 8, 2006)

*breaking in*

So breaking in a rope means to stretch out the cover of the rope so that it's longer that the part that is on the inside?

This is sorta a side note, but I always thought that a kernmantle rope was just a rope that had parts a cover and the inside part. I think it's a dutch or german word.

lot to learn out there, huh!

love
nick


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## Stumper (Feb 8, 2006)

That is the most common facet of a "some breakin required" note in the catalog, but it isn't all. Some ropes undergo a fairly dramatic change in 'hand' with use. As surface fibers fuzz up the ropes grippability and knot holding characteristics increase. Use softens many ropes making them more flexible and easier to tie knots with. In some ropes loading the rope heavily (but not excessively) a few times tightens the braid or lay and makes what was a very soft rope firmer. These are Normal changes that have to be differentiated from the changes that occur from excessive wear or overloading of the rope. Some ropes feel and handle as good as they ever will right off the spool and change very little unless they are damaged. Other rope undergo an initial change when first put into service and then are stable until excessively worn or damaged. This has nothing to do with manufacturing defects or sloppy production as some people seem to imply-this is the nature rope and other textiles-Your jeans aren't defective because they are stiff and a little oversized when new but more comfortable after five washings-it is a characteristic of denim. Same thing with some ropes.


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## xtremetrees (Feb 8, 2006)

You bought the wrong rope friend. Heres mine.


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## xtremetrees (Feb 8, 2006)

Heres my spikes. They quit makin um.
Didnt mean to derail your thread. I tried the the smaller ropes like "the fly" I didnt like it. I mean I couldnt grab it so easy. I did like how it threaded thru limbs with ease.


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