# My new sawmill



## Czech_Made (Jan 19, 2016)

Good Morning,

I join this great forum last December, but back than I had nothing to post. I did some alaskan mill miling few years back - killed a chainsaw too, at least I believe the milling killed it. I liked it and got some usable lumber from it, but last year I decided I have to build something that would work better for me.

The sawmill was my project the whole year 2015, it is in usable condition now, but still needs work. The core is an I - beam I got for free and inspiration was Logosol, as you can tell. 


Anyway, I tested it on some fallen pine.


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## Czech_Made (Jan 19, 2016)

The log moves up and down on 1 inch ACME threaded rod while 1" tubes slide in and out. This part works great, I was afraid it will need too much force to move, but it lifts with ease and there is no need for locking down.


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## Czech_Made (Jan 19, 2016)

First version of log dogs. I will have to make a right angle and tall one for squaring logs.


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## Czech_Made (Jan 19, 2016)

I got some cheap rulers from HD and made pointers.


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## Czech_Made (Jan 19, 2016)

I am using 24" Husky bar with ripping chain, may go to narrow kerf and 20" some day, not sure.

The aluminum block is milled to a taper to compensate for the imperfectly welded steel part. I think I will rig an arm to hold the end of the bar too, it shakes a bit on the beggining of the cut.


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## Czech_Made (Jan 19, 2016)

- Originally I used the whole clutch assembly from 372XP, but it would slip when the motor slowed down - now it is just the outside piece welded to a spindle, the goal was to be able to replace the sprocket ring when it wears out.

- Bar is lubed by gravity fed oil, I am afraid it is not enough and most likely will have to get some kind of a oil pump rigged.

- The electrical connection will be replaced completely in a week or two, this is just for testing.

- Also the V belt may need tensioner or maybe use sprockets an chain instead, the future will tell.


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## Czech_Made (Jan 19, 2016)

I load logs using a platform on my tractor, it works OK, will seek some other ways too.


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## Czech_Made (Jan 19, 2016)




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## DonnerParty (Jan 20, 2016)

Nice work. Thanks for sharing.


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## Czech_Made (Jan 20, 2016)

Thank you, sir.  It's a working prototype, still needs work. 

But the results are encouraging, especially how flat and straight the boards are.


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## Shawn Curry (Jan 21, 2016)

Awesome work! About the only thing it seems to be missing is the sweet smell of 2-stroke fumes!

In regards to narrow kerf chain, you might have trouble finding a long bar set up for it. The old roller nose bars that can accept any pitch might be the only option. Personally, I've been migrating the other way to 404, as it seems to hold up better. Having "enough oil" while milling will probably always be a challenge.


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## kimosawboy (Jan 21, 2016)

What size of motor are you using at present and are you happy with it for the wood size/species you are cutting ??
No bearings in your carrage?
Nice mill/idea!

G Vavra


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## Czech_Made (Jan 21, 2016)

As far as I know, narrow kerf bars are 20" or less - it could be enough for most of my work. Still I want to finish the build and use it for some time to gain experience and to know better what it needs.

The motor is 240V 6.5hp from Tractor Supply Company - biggest I could find in the store. The original plan was to use ball bearings, but I used UHMW instead and it seems to be working well.


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## Jim Timber (Jan 22, 2016)

Looks like a great mill to me. The proof is in the wood you're putting out with it.

I like your elevators too. Much nicer than the cable cranks.


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## Czech_Made (Jan 22, 2016)

Thanks 

Yesterday I worked on the oil delivery. The bar oil delivery hole is milled to 1/4" slot which seemed to be plenty toget the oil to the bar, but did not. The gravity feed in winter is not enough to keep the chain lubed.

Yesterday I rigged quick and dirty solution from some brake tubing and tyvec fuel line and did two cuts in pine - it drips directly between the chain and the bar. When I checked the bar, the cutting edge was oily enough to call it a good start.

The bar is set to cut away from the I beam and I want to lubricate the chain right before it cuts. I still want to add one more oiler on the end of the bar.


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## Iron.and.bark (Jan 23, 2016)

From someone who owns a logosol farmers m8, congratulations on what you have built!

I use .325 one my logosol. Bought a 24" GB bar and was able to swap the roller tip out to a .325 from 3/8. Works very well (3120xp) and cut is smoother than my band saw mill.


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## Jimbo209 (Jan 23, 2016)

Iron.and.bark said:


> From someone who owns a logosol farmers m8, congratulations on what you have built!
> 
> I use .325 one my logosol. Bought a 24" GB bar and was able to swap the roller tip out to a .325 from 3/8. Works very well (3120xp) and cut is smoother than my band saw mill.


That will be good to see


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## amberg (Jan 23, 2016)

very impressed, nice setup.


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## Czech_Made (Jan 24, 2016)

_*Iron and Bark says:*

From someone who owns a logosol farmers m8, congratulations on what you have built!

I use .325 one my logosol. Bought a 24" GB bar and was able to swap the roller tip out to a .325 from 3/8. Works very well (3120xp) and cut is smoother than my band saw mill._


Thank you.

Thats a great idea, I liked the narrow kerf in the Alaskan mill.

I use Husqvarna Rancher I converted to narrow kerf, with 20" bar it cuts really well.


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## Knot_Smart (Jan 24, 2016)

Wow, you did a great job on that thing, I love it!
It looks like the lead screws are independent right? If so, would it be of much be benefit to connect them with gears/chain so they work in unison from either wheel? I know you'd lose the ability to (easily) tilt the log if they are tied together, but with a chain drive connecting the jack screws, you could get really silly with a second up/down motor.


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## Knot_Smart (Jan 24, 2016)

Next thing you know, you'll have a third motor on a rack 'n pinion to shove the powerhead along and you'll be slabbing via remote from the living room!


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## Czech_Made (Jan 25, 2016)

Thank you.

Yeah, the rack and pinion is a wet dream, haha. I will try winch first.

As far as the lift joined together, I considered it, but I found it handy to level the log independently.


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## Quietfly (Feb 16, 2016)

This is a sweet piece of work. thanks for sharing it!


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## Calisdad (Feb 19, 2016)

Czech_Made said:


> - Originally I used the whole clutch assembly from 372XP, but it would slip when the motor slowed down - now it is just the outside piece welded to a spindle, the goal was to be able to replace the sprocket ring when it wears out.
> 
> - Bar is lubed by gravity fed oil, I am afraid it is not enough and most likely will have to get some kind of a oil pump rigged.
> 
> ...



I like your rig. That is going to last a long time. As far as oil delivery couldn't you pressurize your oil tank with a Schrader valve, much like a garden sprayer?


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## Czech_Made (Feb 19, 2016)

Thank you, gents. I am redoing the wiring now, plus working on a blade support. I will try to drip oil directly on the chain instead of the bar oil port and see what happens. 

The oil tank now is a gas tank from an old tiller, i would have to seal the cap somehow, but it certainly is interesting idea, thank you.


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## Project of the day (Feb 22, 2016)

Nice build i love it, and please let the pictures and films keep coming so can follow your build.


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## amberg (Feb 24, 2016)

Like yours to.


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## Czech_Made (Mar 11, 2016)

It took me forever, but all is painted and assembled, still need to make the "hanger" for the bar but it cuts again.


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## Czech_Made (Mar 11, 2016)

Oil delivery is moved right where the chain enters the bar, but I have to extended it all the way down, it spills all around.


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## Czech_Made (Mar 11, 2016)

I tried to use winch, love it, much better than pushing the carriage. 

Next step is to replace pulleys and v-belt with chain, it eats belts with amazing speed. Maybe a regular rubber belt would last longer, but I figured roller chain is better.


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## logeeland (Mar 11, 2016)

Great job! Lots of engineering! What about dual oilers? Add something on the sprocket end of the bar that feeds into the grease hole?


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## SawmillMan (Mar 14, 2016)

Czech_Made said:


> I am using 24" Husky bar with ripping chain, may go to narrow kerf and 20" some day, not sure.
> 
> The aluminum block is milled to a taper to compensate for the imperfectly welded steel part. I think I will rig an arm to hold the end of the bar too, it shakes a bit on the beggining of the cut.


Very nice and creative work.


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## Czech_Made (Mar 18, 2016)

Well I tried to use chain and I will be going back to V-belt and build a tensioner. I did cut few boards with a chain drive, but the speed and centrifugal forces dried the chain completely free of oil. The chain felt like dry grass in my hand when i took it off.
On top of that, it was kind of scary


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## Marshy (Mar 18, 2016)

Nice mill!
I had the same thought about pressurizing the oil tank. Yard sale season is coming up, keep your eyes open for one of those hand held weed sprayers. Maybe try craigslist too.

$14 at lowes, holds 1 gallon. You could probably add a cheap pressure gauge somewhere to make sure you keep it pressurized each cut. 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_285868-1306-190315___?productId=3192525&pl=1&Ntt=sprayer


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## logeeland (Mar 18, 2016)

What about running the rain through a container that has oil in it?


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## Czech_Made (Apr 8, 2016)

Finally update. I made a belt tensioner from a discarded Subaru part I found in scrap bin. The link V-belt is just not made for this application, got my V-belts from TSC, it only took three trips to get the right size belts


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## Czech_Made (Apr 8, 2016)

To test the setup I slabbed chunk of oak I had handy. Looks like a winner, knock on wood, with this setup I can pop the breaker. With the V-link belts it would always kill the belt.
Also love the winch, it makes it so much easier.


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## Czech_Made (Apr 8, 2016)

Oh, the oiling setup now works well, I drip oil right at the point the chain enters the bar and it keeps it nice and lubed.
Eventually there will be a second point on the end of the bar.


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## BobL (Apr 8, 2016)

Czech_Made said:


> Oh, the oiling setup now works well, I drip oil right at the point the chain enters the bar and it keeps it nice and lubed.
> Eventually there will be a second point on the end of the bar.



The oil delivery point is too high and most of the oil will splash off the chain and you will lose most of it. The delivery point needs to be much closer so that it wicks out onto the chain. On my mills I have the delivery point less than 1mm above the chain/bar contact.

Also it looks like you have the delivery on the inboard spade meaning the oiled chain has to go around the outboard sprocket where some will be flung of by centrifugal forces.. It would be better to have it near the outboard end just after the chain hs gone around the outboard sprocket.

OK i read you are eventually going to add a second point.


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## HomesteadRed (Apr 10, 2016)

Very nice setup man. I jus bought a property and am looking to build a mill as well. How do you like the chainsaw setup? I was considering making an alaskan mill for a chainsaw and building the mill with a band saw. What drove you to use a bar setup? Cost or ease of construction?


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## Czech_Made (Apr 11, 2016)

BobL said:


> The oil delivery point is too high and most of the oil will splash off the chain and you will lose most of it. The delivery point needs to be much closer so that it wicks out onto the chain. On my mills I have the delivery point less than 1mm above the chain/bar contact.
> 
> Also it looks like you have the delivery on the inboard spade meaning the oiled chain has to go around the outboard sprocket where some will be flung of by centrifugal forces.. It would be better to have it near the outboard end just after the chain hs gone around the outboard sprocket.
> 
> OK i read you are eventually going to add a second point.




yes, you are right on too high delivery, it was getting blown away. I changed that, can't say it is 1mm but it is pretty close to the bar now.

I am actually cutting away from the beam, means the chain gets oiled right before it cuts. I understand it can cause some other troubles, but so far I like the sawdust being blown away from me.


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## Czech_Made (Apr 11, 2016)

HomesteadRed said:


> Very nice setup man. I jus bought a property and am looking to build a mill as well. How do you like the chainsaw setup? I was considering making an alaskan mill for a chainsaw and building the mill with a band saw. What drove you to use a bar setup? Cost or ease of construction?



The main reason for bar setup - I did not want to mess with band blades and I already have the means of sharpening a chain. 
I saw similar setups overseas, there are company building sawmills like this commercially.


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## BobL (Apr 11, 2016)

Czech_Made said:


> yes, you are right on too high delivery, it was getting blown away. I changed that, can't say it is 1mm but it is pretty close to the bar now.


That's good



> I am actually cutting away from the beam, means the chain gets oiled right before it cuts. I understand it can cause some other troubles, but so far I like the sawdust being blown away from me.


Good idea but doesn't the sawdust get in the way of loading new logs onto the mill frame? On the bandsaw I operate we load logs and unload lumber from one side and the sawdust and offcuts pile up on the other.


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## Czech_Made (Apr 11, 2016)

So far so good  I will move the mill based on experience. The beam points to the North, more or less and that's where the wind comes from. It worked well for pushing the saw, but with the winch and pulling it towards me, I may need to turn it around. The saw dust I will probably have to move around every so often, maybe use as mulch at wife's garden or something 

What oil do you use? So far I have a bar oil in the tank, mixed with some ATF, that was to thin it out when testing in winter. Tha bar oil seemed to be too slow. Now I think pure bar oil would be better since it is more "sticky" for lack of better word.


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## BobL (Apr 11, 2016)

Czech_Made said:


> So far so good  I will move the mill based on experience. The beam points to the North, more or less and that's where the wind comes from. It worked well for pushing the saw, but with the winch and pulling it towards me, I may need to turn it around. The saw dust I will probably have to move around every so often, maybe use as mulch at wife's garden or something


Raw sawdust is not much good in gardens- it needs nitrogen and composting and stirring into the soil. I t can also "cake" and prevent water penetration. I see you are only milling small logs so not much sawdust anyway. Some of the logs I mill generate over 120 kg of sawdust!



> What oil do you use? So far I have a bar oil in the tank, mixed with some ATF, that was to thin it out when testing in winter. Tha bar oil seemed to be too slow. Now I think pure bar oil would be better since it is more "sticky" for lack of better word.


You can buy special tackfying agent to add to oil. In Australia hotter weather means regular chainsaw bar oil can be too thin so extra tackifier is needed. I purchase re-cleaned engine oil with extra tackifier. The person I buy it from adds the extra tackifier for me. I used to use Branded oil in the saw and canola oil in the aux oiler as this is on the cutting side and it does not need the tackifier however it does makes a mess and then my dogs like to lick the B&C afterwards. The canola oil is quite cheap (~US2/L) compared to regular bar oil $4/L but the cleaned recycled oil with tackifier is only $2.50/L so I now use that in both the saw and the aux oiler.


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## Czech_Made (Apr 11, 2016)

Thank you, Bob. I will see what works for me, but as you notice, I run small operation, regular bar oil might be enough.


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## Czech_Made (Apr 13, 2016)

I like eastern red cedar a lot.


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## Czech_Made (Jul 13, 2016)

Video of cutting pine, iphone in left hand, cranking with right hand


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## SeMoTony (Dec 9, 2016)

Czech_Made said:


> - Originally I used the whole clutch assembly from 372XP, but it would slip when the motor slowed down - now it is just the outside piece welded to a spindle, the goal was to be able to replace the sprocket ring when it wears out.
> 
> - Bar is lubed by gravity fed oil, I am afraid it is not enough and most likely will have to get some kind of a oil pump rigged.
> 
> ...


simplify, a pump won't be required if larger diameter tubing is used to apply oil; twice dia. transfers up to 4 times the flow (-;


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## cedarhollow (Jan 31, 2017)

if you decide to go with air pressurized oil tank if you have a junk yard around the air brake tanks off of a truck might work real well. surplus center sells pipe thread ports that can be welded in for a fill port and each tank should have either 2 or 4 , 1/2 inch or 3/8 inch threaded ports in the bottom. air pressure in one tank oil in the other with a valve to control flow.
just an idea. you've done great fabrication job, well done


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## Big_6 (Jan 31, 2017)

Repped!
This is the best stuffs I seen on A.S. in years!
@ Thanks for posting this use of a curious mind and your skilled hands.


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## Czech_Made (Feb 1, 2017)

Thank you for your kind words, Big_6


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## JDP (May 25, 2017)

Very nice job! I love the jack screws for the lift mechanism. Are you still loading it from your tractor's carryall? Might I suggest using ramps and parbuckling them up? Speaking as someone whoose back has seen better days, I can use all the mechanical advantage I can get!


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## Czech_Made (May 26, 2017)

Thank you and thank you for the suggestion, will keep it in mind.

I have to move it to permanent position - and get a roof over it. I have a crane that can mount on my trailer, will be probably using that - and my son when he is around


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## Bernard_Ritchie (May 26, 2017)

Czech_Made said:


> Thank you, gents. I am redoing the wiring now, plus working on a blade support. I will try to drip oil directly on the chain instead of the bar oil port and see what happens.
> 
> The oil tank now is a gas tank from an old tiller, i would have to seal the cap somehow, but it certainly is interesting idea, thank you.


How about a pump type garden sprayer (without the wand)?

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk


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## Czech_Made (Aug 9, 2018)

I have quite few pine logs to mill and there is more where these came from. With the weather in Virginia I cut when it is not raining, sometimes it is hard to get to the pile, haha. 

I slab logs to 1" , nothing fancy, just making boards.


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## Czech_Made (Aug 9, 2018)

I made few changes to the mill. First, I installed sawdust deflector to keep it from flying too far. It works well, I might add a rubber skirt to it to catch the rest of the dust.

It makes a neat sawdust mountain range under the mill now. Much easier to deal with.


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## Czech_Made (Aug 9, 2018)

I checked the gauge of the cable I was using - it looked big enough from the outside but it was only 12 gauge, way too small. I upgraded to 8 gauge.

I also replaced the smaller V-belt pulley and lowered rpms on the blade from 6700 to 5700, it did not make much of a difference in cutting speed but it is much less likely to pop the breaker now.


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## Deleted member 117362 (Aug 9, 2018)

Nice work!


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## Czech_Made (Aug 27, 2018)

Milling some beautiful pine these days. Kinda reddish in places, love it.


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## Czech_Made (Mar 13, 2019)

Czech_Made said:


> The log moves up and down on 1 inch ACME threaded rod while 1" tubes slide in and out. This part works great, I was afraid it will need too much force to move, but it lifts with ease and there is no need for locking down.



I was forced to rebuild the log lift. What happened is a big log actually bent the guide tubing on one side and the log rest was not parallel anymore. I was ready for it, planned the improvement for a while, and now I was forced to finally implement it.

I went with two lifting 1" acme bolts, two ACME nuts and two sprockets paired by 40 roller chain. See pictures. I also had to make hand wheels few inches smaller diameter but all in all the whole upgrade was just matter of cutting and welding.


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## Czech_Made (Apr 19, 2019)

I used cheap bar Laser. What a stupid idea, the sprocket just broke in half and I lost a ripping chain too.


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## Saiso (Apr 20, 2019)

Some people are smarter than the average bear, for sure.

Nice idea. Good luck milling!


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## Czech_Made (Feb 18, 2020)

Time to update. I added 10x20 roof to my shop and moved the mill there. Finally out of the rain. Last Saturday I added a ramp to hold logs.


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