# Figure 8 descender



## peregordusmc (Sep 22, 2010)

Wanting to learn how to use a figure 8 descender. Does any one know of a good link to a website that has good describtions and pictures to useing a figure 8 descender? Im haveing a hell of a time looking this info up. Thanks.


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## tree md (Sep 22, 2010)

The figure 8 works best on a single line. The TCC has a description and diagram showing how to use it and Sherrill and Wesspur also have diagrams I believe.

Pretty simple to do, just run a bite of rope through the large hole and loop the bite over the small half of the 8. Just remember that it is not a self belay and needs to be constantly tended. If you want to be suspended hands free on an 8 you need to do a hard lock. All of which is covered in the Tree Climbers Companion.


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## tree md (Sep 22, 2010)

Basically like this:












Of course the biner you see on the small half of the 8 needs to be positive locking and clip it to your bridge or to your D rings. The text book will tell you to back it up with a prussic. 

To be honest with you, I have quit carrying mine since I went to a split tail and eye to eye. On a double line you can eliminate the figure 8 altogether. I used to carry one with me when I still climbed old school in case I encountered bees or had some other reason I needed to descend quickly. I would also use it if I was just setting a line in a tree or something like that. If you are still climbing old school it is a good piece of kit to carry along with you for safety sake. However, if you are climbing on a double line with an eye to eye then you can eliminate the figure 8 from the equation. To use it text book you are supposed to back it up with a prussic and there is no need to even use one Ddrt with a prussic.


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## peregordusmc (Sep 22, 2010)

tree md said:


> Basically like this:
> 
> Of course the biner you see on the small half of the 8 needs to be positive locking and clip it to your bridge or to your D rings. The text book will tell you to back it up with a prussic.
> 
> To be honest with you, I have quit carrying mine since I went to a split tail and eye to eye. On a double line you can eliminate the figure 8 altogether. I used to carry one with me when I still climbed old school in case I encountered bees or had some other reason I needed to descend quickly. I would also use it if I was just setting a line in a tree or something like that. If you are still climbing old school it is a good piece of kit to carry along with you for safety sake. However, if you are climbing on a double line with an eye to eye then you can eliminate the figure 8 from the equation. To use it text book you are supposed to back it up with a prussic and there is no need to even use one Ddrt with a prussic.



Thanks Tree MD. Yea I would say I climb old school style. I learned from an old timer how to climb. I would say majority of the time when i climb I use the double rope technique with a taunt line hitch. have used that for years. trying to expand my knowledge. i have a hand and foot ascender now that i use to get into trees that arent being removed. I have a split tail that i have used a few times. my last job i realized how much rope and money you save by using them and will be using it more often. So your saying there is no real need to use a figure 8 under these circumstances? I have only used the single rope technique once and that was just to try it out. Oh and what is this eye to eye you are talking about? never heard this term before.


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## tree md (Sep 22, 2010)

Well, there are a lot of slick climbers working off of a single line these days. That can become a little gear intensive but there are definitely some advantages to using a single line in some situations. Especially for entering the tree.

That being said, I am pretty much old school too. I work on a doubled line, using my foot and hand ascenders to do prunes. My split tail just runs up the line when I employ my ascenders. I don't have to switch over when I want to come down and can work hands free on the way up.

An eye to eye is just a prussic cord with eyes on both ends. You can use premade spliced eyes or tie your own with a piece of prussic cord. Do a search for prussic cords and eye to eyes and you should get lots of reading material.

Just remember to try stuff out low and slow. Good luck!


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## peregordusmc (Sep 23, 2010)

Thanks again Tree MD. your info has been very helpful and greatly appreciated.


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## treeslayer (Sep 23, 2010)

put a short prussick with a biner on the rope above the figure 8 and go hands free.


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## lego1970 (Sep 25, 2010)

I think the only time I've ever used my figure 8 for tree work is for lowering medium size branches and wood. Other then that I haven't found much use for it. 


Useless info, but if you ever use it for recreational use like going down cliffs or big buildings,


From what I've heard: you shouldn't use a Figure 8 or ATC for repels longer then 150' because supposedly it get's hot enough to damage or even cut through the rope. I haven't repelled in a long time but I do remember them getting really hot, especially the ATC device. I guess for long decents your supposed to use some other device. Don't know what it's called but it looks like a minature ladder (10"L x 3"W) and I guess you weave the rope in and out of the rungs depending on how heavy or how far your going. Again probably useless info but keep it in the back of your head for the future.


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## beastmaster (Sep 25, 2010)

I always carrier a small figure 8 with me in case i have to get out of a tree fast. They can be controlled by a ground person if you were injured allowing the ground person to safely lower you. Plus its fun to slide down a tipping line in a high tree. 
Here is a method of locking your figure 8. I borrowed this from a rock climbing site. 

1. Stop. Hold hand in brake position on hip/butt.

2. Reach between legs with non-brake hand and pull rope forward between legs. Pass the rope outward, back to brake position on hip/butt. Repeat until you have 3 or 4 wraps of rope around your upper thigh.

3. After final wrap, clip rope into carabiner on gear loop on your brake hand side to keep rope from unwrapping.

I never tried this my self, but it could come in handy some day.


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## tree md (Sep 26, 2010)

Hey Blake's, I've never tried that either but I have read about it, it's called a leg wrap or body wrap. It's what the first guys pioneering mountaineering did. Your right, it is some excellent knowledge for anyone who finds themself in a bind while repelling. Prolly more useful to rock climbers and cavers than us but good info none the less,

Lego, good info as well. The friction device you are thinking of is called a rack. Kind of similar to the unicender only it is a one way ticket down.


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## FiremanDJ (Sep 29, 2010)

Why not take an ATC? http://ozultimate.com/canyoning/descenders/atc.htm

Works with twin lines and very easy to setup. Push a bight of rope through the device, pass the biner through both the bight of rope and the wire loop of the ATC. Now you're good to go.

Weighs as much as a figure of eight, but takes up less space. It's really meant for belaying, but it works as a descender and for the amount of times you guys will be using it...

Or the Munter Hitch. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munter_hitch
Just a biner needed. Twist the rope, pass it through the biner and pass the working end through the biner. Easy done.


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## oscar4883 (Sep 29, 2010)

The leg wraps for a fig. 8 lock off work well. I have used that method on accasion. Can't for the life of me remember why. LOL But I do remember that it was not that uncomfortable. I always keep an 8 on my belt and the few times I took it off for some reason I really needed it.


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