# Best firewood saw for scrounger



## firebuckeye (Jan 10, 2007)

I scrounge wood, trees already down. I wouldlike your guys opinion on one good saw that will be good for many years. I currently have a husqvarna 141 and feel it is to small. The diameter of logs varies, and some wood is already cut to length. What is one saw you guys would not leave home with out. Husky 359, 357?? I dont want to spend a fortune if not needed. I burn maybe 4 cord a year and thats it. I probably have no other use for the saw than cutting my own firewood. Thanks for every one who replies


----------



## computeruser (Jan 10, 2007)

How big is most of the wood you are encountering? If it is under 20", something in the Husqvarna 359/357-class would be a good all-around saw. Just make sure you ditch the catylitic converter muffler...


----------



## wdchuck (Jan 10, 2007)

Never used a Husky, couldn't say that way.

A good middle of the road saw, if you only want to own one, Stihl MS361, 20", and 24" bar. Sharp chains. 

Last you many years, with proper maintenance, and don't forget the PPE.


----------



## rb_in_va (Jan 10, 2007)

Do you have a price range? What type of wood are you cutting? Also are you set on Husky? Do you have a Dolmar dealer in your area? How many questions can you answer?


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 10, 2007)

Being as this is my first year scrounging I dont have a great gauge on what size would and species. My citie brings all the trees to one area and you can cut all day long on them. I live in Ohio and believe its mostly maple and Oak. I could be wrong. I believe 20 inches would probably be on the larger size of whats available, but then again I dont know. I would just pass up the stuff to big I suppose. I dont know of a dolmar dealer. Its Stihl or Husky. I currently have a husky 141, and like it. So I am leaning towards Husky. I have been reading and it seems the 353 maybe a good choice? I dont know wich one are professional, seems I read there was one built on a pro chassis but may of been cheaper than a full pro saw. Hopefully I have giuven some more insight on what I need.

Thanks


----------



## buckwheat (Jan 10, 2007)

At four cords a year, you don't need a pro saw. Actually, you can probably get by just fine with a box store Poulon Pro or a whatever they are branding with the Craftsman name these days.

If you must have one of the big names, then go with the "homeowner" or "farm" level models.

The other saws mentioned are good solid machines, but why spend the money if you don't need that level of quality? Take the money you save and buy a set of chaps, eye and ear protection, a file guide, a couple of plastic wedges, and some spare chains.


----------



## computeruser (Jan 10, 2007)

Thanks for the additional information.

A 60cc saw in a light, trim package will probably be your best bet for an all-around saw. The Stihl MS361 would be a great saw for your purposes, as would a Husqvarna 357xp. For a few bucks less (and a bit less in the performance department, too) Husqvarna's 359 would be another good choice.

EDIT: Upon further reflection, you might want to also consider the Stihl MS290/310 and Husqvarna 350/353. These are less powerful but are also less expensive, and should meet your needs pretty well, too. Of those four, only the 353 is a magnesium-cased pro-grade saw. The others have plastic engine cradles/oil tanks. The Stihls in this class are very heavy for their power output, but are renowned for their reliability nonetheless. The Husqvarna 350 is probably the best value in a 50cc saw that you are likely to find, and has a very good reputation for being a durable, handy, reliable $300 saw!

The only caveat with the Husqvarnas is that if they have a green gas cap then you will REALLY want to replace the muffler with the earlier non-Catalytic converter version. These e-Tech, green-cap saws run too hot, too lean, and are choked down on their performance potential. This will add about $40 to the price of the saw and is not warranty-approved.

In a saw this size you will probably want to have a 16" and 20" bar, or possiblly a 16" and 24" bar if you anticipate spending a lot of time in the bigger stuff. When you're cutting on a wood pile there is NO benefit to running a longer bar than necessary. In fact, a shorter bar is probably safer so that you don't end up sticking the tip into the next log in the pile, causing the saw to kick back at ya. When cutting on a wood pile or bucking up logs that are in/on a trailer, I've found it works well to cut most of the way through the log with a short bar for a number of pieces and then roll the log with a cant hook and finish the cuts. For this sort of use a long bar is a real disadvantage.


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 10, 2007)

So far after more research, do i want a .325 or 3/8 capable chain? This might eliminate the 353. I like the 353 or 359 so far.


----------



## computeruser (Jan 10, 2007)

firebuckeye said:


> So far after more research, do i want a .325 or 3/8 capable chain? This might eliminate the 353. I like the 353 or 359 so far.



It makes no difference, except to the extent that the chain pitch and powerhead should be correctly matched for optimum performance. On a 353 I would want to run .325" pitch and I would want 3/8" pitch on the 359 to take advantage of its larger displacement and greater torque. I would run a 16" bar as my primary bar on both saws.

Either of those saws will make a great all-around firewood scrounger saw, so you really can't go wrong with either of them. The 353 is similar in performance to my old 026Pro (16", .325" chain), and it recently cut up some 15-20" ash and white oak logs with ease. A more powerful saw, obviously, would make faster work of the same wood, but that speed comes at a price - $$$ and lbs.


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 10, 2007)

Thanks,

Basically I am at a point of how much to spend. It all come down to that, and trying to find happy meadium. Local dealer is pushing the 350 or the 455.
350 at 339.00 and the 455 at 375.00 both with 18" bars. The 353 is 409.00What you think?


----------



## computeruser (Jan 10, 2007)

firebuckeye said:


> Thanks,
> 
> Basically I am at a point of how much to spend. It all come down to that, and trying to find happy meadium. Local dealer is pushing the 350 or the 455.
> 350 at 339.00 and the 455 at 375.00 both with 18" bars. The 353 is 409.00What you think?



SKIP THE 455!

OK, good, got that out of the way.

Those prices are OK. Not great, but not too terribly out of line. Amickssuperstore.com, an arboristsite sponsor, is selling the 353 for $349+shipping, so you're not really paying *that* much more to buy from your local dealer. I'll skip the full discussion of the virtues of buying from a dealer and cultivating a positive customer-seller/servicer relationship versus buying online, since that's been covered a million times before in the chainsaw forum, but if you're not comfortable doing your own set-up, tuning, repairs and maintenance, then you will want to consider buying from the dealer.

If he wants to sell the 353 for $409, see about downgrading to a 16" bar and having him throw in a couple extra loops of chain, or some oil, or something along those lines. Then you'll be getting a very competitive deal without trying to screw your dealer. And don't forget to get the proper protective gear if you don't have it already - chaps, eye protection, ear protection, etc!


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 10, 2007)

Thanks,

you have been very helpful. I think the 353 sounds like a good saw. I went out and looked at the wood I will be cutting and mostly fall 14-20 inch range. I know you said 16 inch bar on the 353 but what about the 18? I feel I will need the 18 inch often. Of course I am not an experience wood cutter so maybe you know better. Could you expand on the reason the 16" bar?


----------



## computeruser (Jan 10, 2007)

firebuckeye said:


> Thanks,
> 
> you have been very helpful. I think the 353 sounds like a good saw. I went out and looked at the wood I will be cutting and mostly fall 14-20 inch range. I know you said 16 inch bar on the 353 but what about the 18? I feel I will need the 18 inch often. Of course I am not an experience wood cutter so maybe you know better. Could you expand on the reason the 16" bar?




It is largely just a matter of personal preference, but there is a little logic to it, too.

The preference - I happen to be a 16, 20, 28, 36, 42" bar person. I've run saws with 18" bars and have never quite seen the point - not as nimble as the 16", not as long as the 20". Since I started with 16, 20, 28", I have never really had a need for an 18" or the desire to have to keep a stock of loops of chain in yet another size.

The logic - I have found that the little 10-12lb saws feel best with a 16" bar, in terms of balance. I ran a Jonsered 2152 (a 353 in red-and-black clothing) a few months ago and thought that the balance with a 16" was about perfect. 

And there is not very much that an 18" can do that a 16" can't do as well AND with better balance on a saw like the 353. I've run 16" and 20" bars on my 026Pro and without a doubt feel that saws in that weight/power class are happier with the 16" - the engine is happier, the user is happier, and the wood gets cut all the same. Incidentally, the folks over in Norway like their 353s with 13" and 15" bars for balance and a high power-to-bar-length ratio, and all they have to cut is softwood!

In the event that you really need a longer bar than your 16", then you can make a meaningful jump up to a 20" bar and run skip chain. This seems like the optimum combination for a saw in the 353 class in hardwood - a 16" with standard chain and a 20" bar with skip chain.

Also, and this is kind of a bit of "yeah, so what?!" logic, there are more deals out there on 16" and 20" loops of chain than there are for 18" loops. Does this really matter? Probably not, but it is a small advantage all the same.


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 10, 2007)

makes perfect sense. I did find a dolmar dealer? 5100 for 399.00 anyone care to comment?


----------



## computeruser (Jan 10, 2007)

firebuckeye said:


> makes perfect sense. I did find a dolmar dealer? 5100 for 399.00 anyone care to comment?




Yup - that is another creature all together. $399 is a good price. Outruns 353, 359, and nips on the heels of the Stihl 361 in smaller wood. It is a great saw, and if you have a dealer nearby then you should give that saw VERY serious consideration. Anti-vibe is great, air filtration is great, power-to-weight is great, and it makes an honest 4hp. It will happily run a 20" bar in hardwood, and will be a powerhouse with a 16" (which I would still choose as my primary bar on this saw, too).

Pop over to the chainsaw forum and do some reading on the 5100. Lots of talk over there about this saw.


----------



## trimmmed (Jan 10, 2007)

firebuckeye said:


> So far after more research, do i want a .325 or 3/8 capable chain? This might eliminate the 353. I like the 353 or 359 so far.



Probably doesn't matter too much, but my choice would be the 3/8" for scrounge cutting, less to file. I'd also think about semi- chisel chain. 



firebuckeye said:


> Basically I am at a point of how much to spend. It all come down to that, and trying to find happy meadium. Local dealer is pushing the 350 or the 455.
> 350 at 339.00 and the 455 at 375.00 both with 18" bars. The 353 is 409.00What you think?



I would pick the 353 out of those choices. Something in the 60cc range might work out better for you though.


----------



## rb_in_va (Jan 10, 2007)

firebuckeye said:


> makes perfect sense. I did find a dolmar dealer? 5100 for 399.00 anyone care to comment?



Will they let you try one out? And does the dolmar dealer sel other saws? Maybe you could try a few side by side.


----------



## ericjeeper (Jan 10, 2007)

*go for the 5100*

and do not look back


----------



## WoodTick007 (Jan 10, 2007)

buy at least a 70cc saw


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 10, 2007)

Dolmar seems like a good option. I could run a 3/8 chain and be under 400. A husky comparble would be the 359...right? its 499.00, big jump.


----------



## rb_in_va (Jan 10, 2007)

firebuckeye said:


> Dolmar seems like a good option. I could run a 3/8 chain and be under 400. A husky comparble would be the 359...right? its 499.00, big jump.



Bailey's shows the 359 at $439, and the 357 at $499.


----------



## wdchuck (Jan 10, 2007)

How long can you cut with your current saw before you start to get tired?

The new bigger saw will get you tired quicker, yes you'll cut faster, but the muscle fatigue will be a factor worth keeping in mind, cause then the safety factor goes down fast. Chaps, full helmet setup, good gloves, sharp chains-file often, file less.


----------



## hornett22 (Jan 10, 2007)

*i'd recommend the 359.*

it is a great saw.IF and only IF you have a dolamr dealer near you,i'd get a 5100.otherwise a stihl 361.


----------



## minkota1 (Jan 10, 2007)

Go for the 359, you'll love it!:greenchainsaw:


----------



## bytehoven (Jan 10, 2007)

firebuckeye said:


> I scrounge wood, trees already down.




firebuckeye: That's what I do. I get a permit from the County and can access several local parks for down trees and limbs.

I have two saws. I have a light weight trim saw the Stihl MS192T with 12" & 14" bars, which is a top handle saw. I run 3/8" .050" semi-chisel safety chain on this saw and it is excellent. I use this for anything up to about 6-8", but mostly for trimming up limbs. Your Husky 141 probably fills the same service very nicely.

My 2nd saw is the Stihl MS361 with a 20" bar. I run 3/8 .050" RS full chisel chain on this beast and it will cut 20" rounds very fast. Someday I could put a larger bar on if I need, but for now I have stocked up 20" chains.

I was looking very closely at the Dolmar 5100S, but because my Stihl dealer gave me such a good deal on the 361, I was willing to spend the extra $$$ for a saw I can use the rest of my life and probably give to my son.

The 5100S has been called the best $400 saw by many folks on the forums.

The next step down on my short list was the Husky 353, with a 16" bar.

I had also looked at the Husky 359, 346XP, Stihl MS270 & 280.

However, I really wanted the MS361 and when my dealer offered $539, I didn't hesitate.

As long as you can handle the weight, I agree with others that something closer to 60cc is going to feel like a step from your 141. 

If you really want to stay around $400, I would go with the Dolmar 5100S with a 16" or 18" bar & 3/8" .050" full chisel chain.

Make sure you keep the chain nice & sharp, and you will have a blast with the bigger lumber.

Last note... definitely remember safety gear with a bigger saw, which can get you into trouble very quickly because of the extra power and speed.


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 10, 2007)

Since you researched the models I am looking at would you feel good about spending 499.00 on the husky 359 or better with the 353 at 409.00 The place that sells dolmar mainly sells the cut off saws and seemed to know little about service. I feel husky or possibly Stihl is my only option.


----------



## bytehoven (Jan 10, 2007)

Here's the thing... you're gonna out spend the difference between saws very quickly in accessories & operational costs.

I liken it to the difference in the cost of golf clubs, when the real money is going to go toward greens fees. Or gun costs when the really money will be the cost of Ammo, Hunting Licenses and gear. Know what I mean?

If I had both a very good Husqvarana and Stihl dealer in my area, I think I could have been better tempted by a Husky. However, I really only had a good Stihl & Echo dealer.

Think about the cost of extras. You want to have maybe (5) extra chains, a case, maybe some new protective gear, a file rig to sharpen your chains or even a grinder, etc... add up the cost to get you totally set up and think how much you'll have left for the saw. The 353 would be the smallest I would go, but if you still have atleast $539 available, I would not hesitate to recommend haggling for the MS361.

Let me say one thing about the 361 I love. The decompression value. Using a decompression value makes starting a big saw so easy, well it's easier than the 30cc trim saw. I don't think I would by a larger saw without a decompression valve unless I had too.

Would you consider buying a saw used if you knew it was well maintained? If yes, you could save yourself some $$$ either buying locally or from someone on the forum. I'm sure if you were patient, you could find a good deal on a used MS361 from someone here who has the itch to pick up a 441, 460, 660, 880... you get the idea. 

Take your time. You can't make a bad choice with the saws currently on your short list. They are all good. Find the one that fits your total budget and you'll be happy.


----------



## musch (Jan 10, 2007)

firebuckeye said:


> Thanks,
> 
> you have been very helpful. I think the 353 sounds like a good saw. I went out and looked at the wood I will be cutting and mostly fall 14-20 inch range. I know you said 16 inch bar on the 353 but what about the 18? I feel I will need the 18 inch often. Of course I am not an experience wood cutter so maybe you know better. Could you expand on the reason the 16" bar?



If you like the Husky line, check the 357xp. It is a little more weight, a little more money, and enough extra power to make you happy, even with a 20" bar.


----------



## ghitch75 (Jan 11, 2007)

get a 372xp and put a 20" bar on it with some good 3/8" round chisel and if you need to cut a little bigger you can get a longer bar(up to 32")....good power and not to heavy... 71cc 5.4hp and about 15 pounds with the bar....


----------



## goof008 (Jan 11, 2007)

Buckeye, I run a MS290 with a slight muffler mod and 20" bar. It'll cut through most things and isn't priced to high. Another option is you may want to check the local Home Depot's to see if they have any of the Makita rental saws for sale. You can get a 64cc saw for about $200. It's used, but my buddy cut over 10 cords of Ash this year with his. He put a 28" bar on it and cut thru a 24-26" ash tree faster than I ever though he would. All the Home Depot rental departments are also able to service the saw. Too bad it's that ugly blue color....can you paint it orange and white?


----------



## logger121 (Jan 14, 2007)

*The best saw would be*



firebuckeye said:


> I scrounge wood, trees already down. I wouldlike your guys opinion on one good saw that will be good for many years. I currently have a husqvarna 141 and feel it is to small. The diameter of logs varies, and some wood is already cut to length. What is one saw you guys would not leave home with out. Husky 359, 357?? I dont want to spend a fortune if not needed. I burn maybe 4 cord a year and thats it. I probably have no other use for the saw than cutting my own firewood. Thanks for every one who replies


Hey. I do the same as you do so I think the best saw would be a husky 359.


----------



## logger121 (Jan 14, 2007)

*You Are better off*



firebuckeye said:


> makes perfect sense. I did find a dolmar dealer? 5100 for 399.00 anyone care to comment?



You are better off with the Husky 359. It has more horse power, and take a 24 inch bar unlike the Dolmar.


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 14, 2007)

Yea, I have been thinking of it and with the wood available I need the 24 inch bar. I am wondering if the 359 will even have enough power for it. I am looking at maybe a stihl 361. The dealership I like quit selling husks but still sell the stihls. I also been looking on ebay for a 60 cc in either brand. I probably cant go wrong with either manufacturer.


----------



## musch (Jan 14, 2007)

firebuckeye said:


> Yea, I have been thinking of it and with the wood available I need the 24 inch bar. I am wondering if the 359 will even have enough power for it. I am looking at maybe a stihl 361. The dealership I like quit selling husks but still sell the stihls. I also been looking on ebay for a 60 cc in either brand. I probably cant go wrong with either manufacturer.



Both the Stihl 361 and Huskvarna 357xp are good saws.
I cannot speak to the 359, but it should be very similar. 
But if you are going to pull a 24" bar, you might want to jump into the 70cc range.

Did you look at the Dolmar 7900? Very light, and powerful. 

But like you said, you can't go wrong with the class of saw that you are looking at.


----------



## jimsfirewood (Jan 14, 2007)

If you are only cutting 4 cords, do NOT get anything as large as a Stihl MS361. It is a terrific firewood saw but not for what you are doing. Use a smaller, lighter, homeowner type of saw with a 14 inch bar. Less fatigue, handier in the tangle of branches you will be working in, easier to control and much safer for you! Chains are cheaper and you will go through a few because the city pushes the trees around in the dirt with their loader. And be careful in those piles, those stems can be under tension and can smack you. Use PPE. Good luck

Hugh


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 14, 2007)

The wood that it is down and free for me to take is 20-30 inches wide. Dosnt that mean I need a big saw? Thanks everyone so far.

Brad


----------



## jab6 (Jan 14, 2007)

how big of wood are you wanting to pick up and move around?i have been cutting with a 20" bar for years...yes somtimes it would be nice to have a bigger bar but my back say no!! my 20" bar does everything i want to handle..its a perfect in the middle size...and you should have at least a 4 hp saw for a 20"...


----------



## wdchuck (Jan 14, 2007)

firebuckeye said:


> The wood that it is down and free for me to take is 20-30 inches wide. Dosnt that mean I need a big saw? Thanks everyone so far.
> 
> Brad



When I first started cutting for firewood, it was definately a scroungefest, and all I had was Poulon 18" WildThing, but a fellow cutter convinced me to get another, more capable saw, enter the Stihl MS 360,(now a 361), with a 24" bar. While cutting with him, 30"+ oak,hickory and other good sized hardwoods were typical, the 360 did fine with a 24" bar, and I could cut for quite a while before taking a break, sharp chains were the key, we touched up the chains every fill-up or sooner if we hit something. It wasn't as fast as a 70cc class saw but it worked fine for me. 

Now I run an 028, 460 and it feels like a good team. The 028 wears a 16"bar .325-63chain, and is a joy to use, up to the 10", a little slow after that, but capable, everything bigger gets the 460, which with a 20" makes quick work of anything, and a 24" when desired. 

But the 460 gets heavy quick when walking and limbing, but great for the big stuff, bigger saws are faster, but everything keeps costing more; long bars, long chains, more fuel, bigger purchase price. Bigger saws cost less, from the standpoint of; less time in the cut, therefore less wear on the saw/operator, possibly less fuel usage overall, will last more years with proper care. 

Running two saws, or at least two bars with a saw will allow you to get your pinched bar off the saw, and put the other bar on to get out of the bind.

Running common bar/chain combos is convenient from the standpoint of retailer avaibility, if a hardware store sells any stihl products they will have the most common chains on the shelf, ready to go. 

Talk to your Stihl dealer about trying out the 361 16" for day in your wood, then try a 460-20", see which works well for you, they have a 7day return policy. 

Lastly, with this being seasonal/weekend work, try and fit some other kind of strengthening excercise into your weekdays during your cutting period, heck lift the new saw 40-50 times couple days a week, keep those muscles used to the weight. When it gets heavy in the field it's an accident waiting to happen. Chaps are a wise investment, saws don't stop in blue jeans, especially if you cut alone.

Let us know what you get.


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 14, 2007)

Thank you for the long reply. And toanswer as far as how big of woodI want, where I goits trees the city dumps. And when I was out there the other day I took a tree guy with me and he said with what he saw he thinks I need a 24 inch bar. I would be much happier with smaller wood, I just dont think I would have that choice always. It may get busy out there some days and all i would have access to might be big stuff. I have a Husky 141 now as well, so if its real small I got that covered. Again thank you all, this information I am getting is very helpful and would not be able to make a good descision with out all this feedback. Keepletting me know what you guys think. Also they let you split wood there on sight so big pieces will not be moved as much,I can spint then put on trailer. I think its going to be a sweet setup.


----------



## bytehoven (Jan 14, 2007)

OK...

What's your max $$$ limit to buy a saw, maybe (2) extra chains, and any other gear you wanted/needed to get under your total price?

You are entering the deeper end of the pool once you consider wading past the MS361 and into a bigger saw.

Personally, I might still buy the MS361 with the 24"bar. And I would try the standard RSC chain. If it had a problem bogging down in some of the wood you need to cut, you could have a RSC skip chain handy, so cutting was a little easier.

If I wanted to run an even bigger bar, that's when I start to look at a 70-80cc saw, and there are so many nice choices, I start to get a headache all over again. :hmm3grin2orange: 

Consider you max $$$ budget, and then we can help you empty your wallet from there.


----------



## Buckeye (Jan 14, 2007)

I just went through the same decision process. My application is similar to yours. I went with the Stihl MS361, and I'm happy with my choice.

Link: www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=40569








.


----------



## 046 (Jan 14, 2007)

if you are going to go with one saw. go with one at least 59cc. you've already got a little consumer saw with 141. 

husky 359 is one of the most bang for the $$ pro saw available. 

just so happens I've got a good used Husky 359 with 20in roller-nose bar for $325 + shipping. 

Please PM with email for pic's if interested. original poster gets first shot at saw...



firebuckeye said:


> I scrounge wood, trees already down. I wouldlike your guys opinion on one good saw that will be good for many years. I currently have a husqvarna 141 and feel it is to small. The diameter of logs varies, and some wood is already cut to length. What is one saw you guys would not leave home with out. Husky 359, 357?? I dont want to spend a fortune if not needed. I burn maybe 4 cord a year and thats it. I probably have no other use for the saw than cutting my own firewood. Thanks for every one who replies


----------



## windthrown (Jan 15, 2007)

*Smaller does not mean lighter...*



jimsfirewood said:


> If you are only cutting 4 cords, do NOT get anything as large as a Stihl MS361. It is a terrific firewood saw but not for what you are doing. Use a smaller, lighter, homeowner type of saw with a 14 inch bar. Less fatigue, handier in the tangle of branches you will be working in, easier to control and much safer for you! Chains are cheaper and you will go through a few because the city pushes the trees around in the dirt with their loader. And be careful in those piles, those stems can be under tension and can smack you. Use PPE. Good luck
> 
> Hugh



I wood have to interject here and disagree. The MS 361 is actually LIGHTER than many homeowner saws with less power. For example, a the most popular saw that Stihl makes, the Stihl MS 290 is heavier and less powerful than a 361 (12.3 v.s 13 lb, 4.4 vs 3.8 HP). The 361 has good anti-vib and the decomp button, and those two items alone are going to be far better on your arms and body when cutting firewood, which the 361 was designed for. If you want cheaper shorter chains, you can always put a 16" bar on a 361. Buy quality, and you will never have to look back or second guess youself.


----------



## jimsfirewood (Jan 15, 2007)

Hi Windthrown - Not being negative at all about MS361. I cut 100 cords a year and most of it is with a 361/20 bar. It's a great saw IMO. But I don't use it for tsi because I get too tired lugging it around.
Firebuckeye has a Husky 141 and he only wants 4 cords. I got no idea what kind of saw that is but I assume it is some kind of small homeowner saw. Use that, Firebuckeye. Those 30" stems: how are you going to pick those up if you do cut them. A skid loader with a Virnig grapple on it is one good method. Alternatively a hammer and a bunch of splitting wedges. But it's just so much easier to pick out nice small oak or other good items, put it in your truck, no back strain, little fatigue, minimal safety issues. GL Hugh


----------



## wdchuck (Jan 15, 2007)

Big rounds can be ripped fairly easily into manageable halves or quarters, goes quick if the cut is with the grain, not on a cut face. In a finished area like the county dump spot big pieces could easily be rolled up some 2x8's, or halve them and use a decent dolly and truck them up the planks. 

That's how I've been saving my back for three years now, a high quality bungee, tight, will keep the piece on the dolly, doug fir is good plank material. It goes pretty quick, and the others at the cut site may like the idea, get home for the game quicker.


----------



## zemmo (Jan 15, 2007)

firebuckeye said:


> Thank you for the long reply. And toanswer as far as how big of woodI want, where I goits trees the city dumps. And when I was out there the other day I took a tree guy with me and he said with what he saw he thinks I need a 24 inch bar. I would be much happier with smaller wood, I just dont think I would have that choice always. It may get busy out there some days and all i would have access to might be big stuff. I have a Husky 141 now as well, so if its real small I got that covered. Again thank you all, this information I am getting is very helpful and would not be able to make a good descision with out all this feedback. Keepletting me know what you guys think. Also they let you split wood there on sight so big pieces will not be moved as much,I can spint then put on trailer. I think its going to be a sweet setup.


 Your setup sounds great! If you really want to run a 24" bar, you might consider a 7900 Dolmar, just to throw a big, light saw into the mix that loves a 24" bar. If I'm bucking big rounds I just make the lengths shorter, keeps the rounds lighter and makes splitting easier.


----------



## NapalmDeath (Jan 15, 2007)

Buckeye said:


> I just went through the same decision process. My application is similar to yours. I went with the Stihl MS361, and I'm happy with my choice.
> 
> Link: www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=40569
> 
> ...



I'm so jealous.


----------



## windthrown (Jan 15, 2007)

*Not too much more weight, really*



jimsfirewood said:


> Hi Windthrown - Not being negative at all about MS361. I cut 100 cords a year and most of it is with a 361/20 bar. It's a great saw IMO. But I don't use it for tsi because I get too tired lugging it around.
> Firebuckeye has a Husky 141 and he only wants 4 cords. I got no idea what kind of saw that is but I assume it is some kind of small homeowner saw. Use that, Firebuckeye. Those 30" stems: how are you going to pick those up if you do cut them. A skid loader with a Virnig grapple on it is one good method. Alternatively a hammer and a bunch of splitting wedges. But it's just so much easier to pick out nice small oak or other good items, put it in your truck, no back strain, little fatigue, minimal safety issues. GL Hugh


 
Husky 141 chainsaw: 40.2 cc, 2.6 hp, 10.1 lb
Stihl 361 chainsaw: 59 cc, 4.4 hp, 12.3 lb 

Not to nitpick, but the 361 has nearly twice the power as the Husky and only 2.2 lb more weight to lug around. I think that the added power outweighs the weight differential as you are going to cut about half the time for the same wood. Far less cutting fatigue.


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Jan 15, 2007)

Good luck cutting 20"+ hardwood with that 141, you'll be there all afternoon.

FWIW, I think for 4 cords a year, you can avoid the biggest of the big stuff and stick with 20" and under wood. For that the 5100 or the 359 with a 16" bar would suit you fine and as someone else said I think, they would also be adequate for running a 20" bar on occasion. 

You've got lots of folk pulling you in 20 different directions... ignore them all. They're all wrong, I'm all right, at least I would be if it weren't for my left side. :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: 

Ian


----------



## bytehoven (Jan 15, 2007)

Haywire Haywood said:


> They're all wrong, I'm all right, at least I would be if it weren't for my left side. :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> Ian




:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 15, 2007)

I realize a lot of that would will be heavy but by being able to split right there on the spot should make it less of an issue. And really till I do it i wont know. It could turn out to be a big mistake. I feel a 361 would be good because I could always try and run a smaller bar and if needed to or wanted to go step up to a 24" bar. I am leaning real heavy towards the 361. Money is an issue but I am single and decent job so I could usually get the tools I want. I tend to buy way better quality than I need, and will never wear out. I also have a saw mill that sells oak end cuts for 30 dollars for a pick up bed load, equate sto 3/4 cord i believ. And thats tigthly stacked. I am picking some up wednesday and will burn that stuff for awhile before I invest big in scrounging for cord wood. If this stuff turns out to be good wood and easy to heat with I may just way it all out on cost verses convienence. I want the new saw but not if it just sits in garage. I have learned a lot from everyone and I apprerciate it. I fany one is ready and burns end cuts from a mill let me know what you think. 

Brad


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Jan 15, 2007)

Well now... if money isn't an issue then I will change my recommendation to the 361. I thought you were trying to pinch pennies. A 361 will set you up nicely and probably still be your primary saw 20 years from now if you treat it right. 18" bar and Stihl RM (not RM2) chain and a 24" bar with Bailey's 30SCS will be just the trick.

Ian


----------



## windthrown (Jan 16, 2007)

*Recommend for 20" bar?*



Haywire Haywood said:


> Well now... if money isn't an issue then I will change my recommendation to the 361. I thought you were trying to pinch pennies. A 361 will set you up nicely and probably still be your primary saw 20 years from now if you treat it right. 18" bar and Stihl RM (not RM2) chain and a 24" bar with Bailey's 30SCS will be just the trick.
> 
> Ian



Now ain't that a coincidence... I have an 18" bar (stock safety chain) on my 361 and a 24" bar for it. I also have a 20" on my 290. I am thinking of swapping out the 20" onto the 361 and put the 18" on the 290. What chain would you recommend for the 20"?


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Jan 16, 2007)

windthrown said:


> Now ain't that a coincidence... I have an 18" bar (stock safety chain) on my 361 and a 24" bar for it. I also have a 20" on my 290. I am thinking of swapping out the 20" onto the 361 and put the 18" on the 290. What chain would you recommend for the 20"?



Depends on what you're cutting... dirty wood, then semi-chisel like Stihl RM (not RM2) or equivalent, clean wood then round chisel like Stihl RS, RSC or equivalent. Firebuckeye is working dozer piles so semi-chisel is the way to go IMO.

Now my legal statement.. I have never run RM or RS. I am making the mistake of spewing up what I have read. I have read RM cuts faster than RM2 chain and RS is just Stihl's non safety round chisel chain. I have run RM2 and didn't like it much. I have run Stihl RSC (low vibe RS), and Bailey's 30RC on my 18, and Bailey's 30SCS (semi-chisel skip) on the 24" bar altho I haven't had the 24 buried yet.

FWIW,
Ian


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 19, 2007)

Well I bought the MS361 w/24" bar and chain today and cut a few tank fulls. I am happy with it but what i learned was that it defnately is not to much power. t seems to have trouble pulling through the wood. I am cutting on Black Cherry right now. Also I learned hard wood is very heavy! Jimsfirewood made a comment about moving 30" rounds and he was right. They are heavy and I may not want to mess with the big stuff. Ether way I can switch to a smaller bar and still have a nice saw. I assume a 18" bar will be no problem with this saw. Only complaint is 24" is to big for this saw, in my opinion. Thanks for everyones help in selecting this saw. Also I purchase it in Centerville OH at Centerville Gravely. Rck helped me out and he is very knowledgable, I would like everyone to know how happy I was with their service. They are top knotch down there.


----------



## zemmo (Jan 19, 2007)

zemmo said:


> Your setup sounds great! If you really want to run a 24" bar, you might consider a 7900 Dolmar, just to throw a big, light saw into the mix that loves a 24" bar. If I'm bucking big rounds I just make the lengths shorter, keeps the rounds lighter and makes splitting easier.





firebuckeye said:


> Well I bought the MS361 w/24" bar and chain today and cut a few tank fulls. I am happy with it but what i learned was that it defnately is not to much power. t seems to have trouble pulling through the wood. I am cutting on Black Cherry right now. Also I learned hard wood is very heavy! Jimsfirewood made a comment about moving 30" rounds and he was right. They are heavy and I may not want to mess with the big stuff. Ether way I can switch to a smaller bar and still have a nice saw. I assume a 18" bar will be no problem with this saw. Only complaint is 24" is to big for this saw, in my opinion. Thanks for everyones help in selecting this saw. Also I purchase it in Centerville OH at Centerville Gravely. Rck helped me out and he is very knowledgable, I would like everyone to know how happy I was with their service. They are top knotch down there.



Hey, maybe I was correct for once...


----------



## zemmo (Jan 19, 2007)

you might also experiment with full or semi-skip on that 24". And of course keep the chain sharp.


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Jan 19, 2007)

Do a search in the chainsaw forum for muffler mods and wake that saw up a bit, and Zemmo is right on about the skip chain if you are burying that 24"er in hardwood.

Ian


----------



## windthrown (Jan 19, 2007)

*Chains for dirty cutting...*



Haywire Haywood said:


> Depends on what you're cutting... dirty wood, then semi-chisel like Stihl RM (not RM2) or equivalent, clean wood then round chisel like Stihl RS, RSC or equivalent. Firebuckeye is working dozer piles so semi-chisel is the way to go IMO.
> 
> Ian



Yah, I seem to be cutting variable dirty/clean wood. Yesterday I was out cutting slash piles for a half cord and noticed that some of the wood had some sand, dirt and stuff on it. I keep the bar out of the dirt, but I cannot keep the dirt off of all the wood that I cut. So I will use an RM which they say runs better in dirty conditions. Baileys says that their 30SCS chain runs good in dirty wood as well, so I will have to order a loop or two from them. I also found a full chisel 20" in the barn, along with about six 18" chains of various types (chisel, safety and semi) that the 'former' administration seems to have left here. So I will be set for loops.


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Jan 19, 2007)

I'm pretty sure that the consensus is that 18" is about the optimum bar length for the 361. What chain did they set you up with? New or used saw? If new, it will gain in power some as it breaks in.

Ian


----------



## bytehoven (Jan 19, 2007)

Man if an 18" bar is optimum for the MS361, all of the other lower CC saws should be running 14/16" bars max.

IMHO, the 361 is prefect with the 20" bar.

I would ask how many tanks of java have been thru windthrown's saw? The saw really starts to come alive just around the point you would want to do it's 1st tune up at 10 tanks.

One other thing I noticed, which I assume is not the issue with windthrown, it really easy to have the trigger just a little less than 100% depressed, and be running at a lower RPM than the saw is capable.

I agree if slicing up 30" rounds was going to be a regular event, something in a 80cc saw starts looking real purty. :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## nilzlofgren (Jan 19, 2007)

computeruser said:


> Thanks for the additional information.
> 
> A 60cc saw in a light, trim package will probably be your best bet for an all-around saw. The Stihl MS361 would be a great saw for your purposes, as would a Husqvarna 357xp. For a few bucks less (and a bit less in the performance department, too) Husqvarna's 359 would be another good choice.
> 
> ...


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 19, 2007)

I am not sure exactly what chain I was set-up with but I know its not a skip. I have only ran 2 tankfulls so I guess it will gain power. I like the saw, I just would say its definately not to much saw. I figure if I stay in the wood burning buissness in acouple years I can by a bigger saw to put a bigger bar on and use an 18 on the 361. Besides where do you stop at..... how big? I still thbink it was a good purchase for me and Im sure I will become more efficient with it. I may not even want to mess with the big 30" rounds anyway.


----------



## zemmo (Jan 19, 2007)

firebuckeye said:


> I am not sure exactly what chain I was set-up with but I know its not a skip. I have only ran 2 tankfulls so I guess it will gain power. I like the saw, I just would say its definately not to much saw. I figure if I stay in the wood burning buissness in acouple years I can by a bigger saw to put a bigger bar on and use an 18 on the 361. Besides where do you stop at..... how big? I still thbink it was a good purchase for me and Im sure I will become more efficient with it. I may not even want to mess with the big 30" rounds anyway.



If I had a 361 I'd probably put a 20" on it and leave the 24 on my 7900, and the 18 on my 5100. How are your sharpening skills? That comes into play real quick. A good sharp vegomatic will outcut the latest wondersaw if the latter has a dull chain.

I'd love to have a 361, it sounds like it might be the best saw for you, unless you're really strong and don't mind limbing with something larger and heavier.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 20, 2007)

There aint no replacement for displacement!!! I was watching a guy cut up a Oak near my work the other day, and it was taking him forever, he was using a Stihl saw, I didn't ask what model, it looked like about a 24" bar, maybe his chain was dull or something, but each round took forever, and the rounds were only about 24", I was cutting up some 30"+ Oak a few weeks ago, and I was cutting way faster, but I was also using my big saw, which is a Husky394xp with a 33" bar. I am very happy I purchased that saw, cause last summer I was cutting some 40" Douglas fir, and its sure nice to have a big saw, with stuff like that. I take anything I can get for wood, doesnt' matter to me on the size, if its too big to lift, I use the Hydraulic splitter in the veritcal position. Looks like you got a good setup though, good luck with it.


----------



## dingo (Jan 21, 2007)

firebuckeye said:


> I scrounge wood, trees already down. I wouldlike your guys opinion on one good saw that will be good for many years. I currently have a husqvarna 141 and feel it is to small. The diameter of logs varies, and some wood is already cut to length. What is one saw you guys would not leave home with out. Husky 359, 357?? I dont want to spend a fortune if not needed. I burn maybe 4 cord a year and thats it. I probably have no other use for the saw than cutting my own firewood. Thanks for every one who replies


.


So if you are a scrounger why go the big expense for a saw. Why not a less expensive poulan or something like that. Yeah, I know fellows, but the way to wealth is how much you can keep, not how much you can make. I like scrounging, and my scrounging days was done with a 25 dollar Montgomery Wards saw.


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 21, 2007)

I actually am enjoying the scrounging and burning wood heat. I can afford gas but even if it was same price I would still cut and gather wood. And I like nice, well built tools / toys. I appreciate the quality of my tools. Thats why I went 361, I already had a husky 141 w/ 16 bar. The 361 is more fun.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 21, 2007)

Yes I agree, I like good tools, and this to me is fun, its a hobby for me too, and the bonus is, it enables me to heat my house, and pay less money to Hydro!!! I figured at how much wood I burn, the amount I have spent on saws, and the splitter, and anything else, it will have paid for itself in 3-4 years, and I ve been burning for 3 years now. Wood is expensive to buy around here, anywhere from $150-$200 a cord delivered.


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 21, 2007)

Right now I am debating wether to go ahead and buy a splitter or just doit all by hand. Can you really make any time splitting by hand? This is my first year so I dont have much experience. It would be nice to split right there where I cut the wood. Any suggestions?


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Jan 21, 2007)

If I were you I'd hand split a year or two before plunking money down on a splitter. You'll get a feel for how much wood you will actually use. If you're really only going to burn 4 cords/yr there's not much point in a splitter unless you have some disability or you're getting up in years to the point that you can't swing a maul. It's good exercise after all.

My 2c,
Ian

P.S. If I keep giving you my 2c, you're gonna have to start chipping in when I write the check for my mortgage.


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 21, 2007)

Funny, you have been very helpful! I am in healthy and in good shape soI should be able to split by hand. I was thinking of maybe selling some to next year. I dont know if its worth it or not though. Whats the best way to split 20+" rounds? That is about all I have so far. I ve been using a saw some but that is time consuming. Is there ant easier way then a wedge and axe? The little stuff is fun tosplit but the big stuff is why I was thinking splitter.


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Jan 22, 2007)

On the big rounds instead of trying to split it down the middle, I shell pieces off the side. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't depending on the wood.

Ian


----------



## 046 (Jan 22, 2007)

if you can swing the bucks... get a splitter. 

as you stated, it's no problems splitting the little wood. it's being able to handle larger wood without having to cut. and of course how wood you are dealing with splits. some woods split so easy, even larger pieces fly apart. 

so if your constantly handling larger/knurly wood, a splitter will save you some real time. 



firebuckeye said:


> Funny, you have been very helpful! I am in healthy and in good shape soI should be able to split by hand. I was thinking of maybe selling some to next year. I dont know if its worth it or not though. Whats the best way to split 20+" rounds? That is about all I have so far. I ve been using a saw some but that is time consuming. Is there ant easier way then a wedge and axe? The little stuff is fun tosplit but the big stuff is why I was thinking splitter.


----------



## zemmo (Jan 22, 2007)

firebuckeye said:


> Funny, you have been very helpful! I am in healthy and in good shape soI should be able to split by hand. I was thinking of maybe selling some to next year. I dont know if its worth it or not though. Whats the best way to split 20+" rounds? That is about all I have so far. I ve been using a saw some but that is time consuming. Is there ant easier way then a wedge and axe? The little stuff is fun tosplit but the big stuff is why I was thinking splitter.



You can split nearly anything by hand, kerf the really terrible stuff with a saw first. Don't forget about the set-up and clean-up time for the splitter, not to mention maintaining it, fueling it, transporting it, et al. And it's not a high performance motor like your saw, and not really especially fun, IMO. If you were doing 100 cords a year and selling it that's be an entirely different matter, but in your situation I'd just get some good mauls, sledges, wedges, and embark on your upper body training program.


----------



## firebuckeye (Jan 22, 2007)

I cut some more today with my ms361 and it was walnut 24" diameter. And the saw seemed like a different beast. I had no trouble keeping the rpms up with a 24" bar and full chise chain. I dont know why I was having trouble a coupledays ago when cutting cherry???? I had a new chain on today and maybe the other one dulled really quick or something. Anthow I just wanted to give my 361 some credit back. It has plenty of power today and that was some of the bigger stuff in the wood lot. I dont know how oak will compare to walnut as far as bucking it to length but hopefully it will do as well.


----------



## wdchuck (Jan 22, 2007)

*Split by hand or machine*

My personal experience:

Split 1/2 cord with a maul, was 10" ash, okay, I can do this , majority of wood in the pile to be split was elm, split 4 pieces. My hands, knuckles, up through my shoulders, everything was getting banged up, then at lunch my hands were shaking, not fun. 

Went out and bought a splitter, nothing high end but horiz/vert, $900 out the door. Now, if it's too heavy/big to roll or dolly to the splitter, or in the field I just use the saw, going with the grain and it goes quick to a size I can handle. My wood furnace will take 22-24" pieces, and the door is 12x12, so my lengths average 20"long by whatever fits through the door opening, for a comfortable fit, that's long stuff to do by hand. 

10% of my wood in three years has been straight grained easy splitting, the rest is machine split necessary. 

Wife likes it too.


----------



## DGG (Feb 14, 2007)

I would look for good used Husky 55 Rancher with 18"-20" bar (the newer version is the 455 Rancher). The 55 Rancher is comparable to the 359 without some of the bells & whistles (and price). I own and use both so I'm biased. I don't know much about the 455 Rancher. I haven't used a 24" bar so can't speak to the benefits over a 20" (or 18"). Either length bar works good on my Husky's in hard wood like maple, walnut, black cherry, and ash. White pine is a breeze.

In my experience with them both the 55 Rancher and the 359 have been fine dependable saws, that with a good maintenance routine, should do everything you need to do with a chain saw. If the scrounging turns into a full time job then an pro saw XP model (like 357xp) might be the best bet. Same weight, quicker cutting with more horsepower.

I could go with any of the recommendations on this thread though. I just happen to like the orange color!


----------

