# MIG Welder



## Huskybill (Jul 18, 2020)

I’m needing a 110v MiG welder I can piggy back from my Hobart 200amp 100% duty cycle gas engine welder. I’d like to go with a good decent machine with stargon gas? Capability of welding 3/16” to 1/4” thick steel and lower to weld muffler mods. Any suggestions on what’s good right now. I wonder how good those suit case migs are. I need something cost effective since I don’t have a ton of work.


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## Ted Jenkins (Jul 18, 2020)

With out more study I would say your premise is wrong. I have a Lincoln that draws 15 Amp which works great on sheet metal and automotive panels, but approaching 1/4'' steel plate not so much. If you were able to preheat what you were welding then maybe OK. Your Hobart should be able to weld the steel plate and use the 110 volt for lite stuff. You can buy a Horror Fright unit for a $100 for occasional use. When I buy some thing that I plan on using often then I try to find a high quality Lincoln or equivalent but for others any thing will do. Maybe look around for some thing used on CL. Thanks


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## dmb2613 (Jul 18, 2020)

get an Eastwood about $300 I think


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## Huskybill (Jul 18, 2020)

So a basic MIG welder with stargon gas, a Lincoln, a Hobart or a Eastwood. I’ll look for sales.

On my loader project I can tack weld plates the arc weld them with the big Hobart.


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## Lionsfan (Jul 18, 2020)

I have a 140 Hobart and it's pretty much maxed out with 3/16" material unless you want to run several passes. My neighbor has a 210 mvp Hobart and it will handle 5/16" quite well. Both of these are set up with solid .030 wire and 75/25 gas. Everlast welders get good reviews for the price IF you can stomach Chinese stuff, but their customer service sounds like a joke if you need help.


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## Ronaldo (Jul 18, 2020)

If you have a smaller amperage welder, keep in mind, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a multiple pass weld.

Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk


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## Lionsfan (Jul 18, 2020)

Ronaldo said:


> If you have a smaller amperage welder, keep in mind, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a multiple pass weld.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk


No, but sometimes you just want to burn it on there in one pass and be done.


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## ATpro (Jul 19, 2020)

One thing you should think about is buying consumables, every Mig will need them. Buying name brand will make it easier to find, buy and getting parts. I have a Lincoln Mig that's 30 years old and can still find parts for and it runs like new.


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## ATpro (Jul 19, 2020)

Ronaldo said:


> If you have a smaller amperage welder, keep in mind, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a multiple pass weld.


Or bevel the area to be welded and use multiple pass weld to weld as thick as you need. You just need to control expansion and warp.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Jul 19, 2020)

Stargon is just a brand name.

C25 (25% C02, 75% argon) is what I've always used for steel. 100% Co2 works as well. Will allow for a bit more penetration on an undersized machine too. Just not as clean of a job.

I've run my 175 amp Lincoln (240v) on a gen set. It doesn't weld nearly as smooth as when plugged to the wall, but it'll get stuff stuck back together.

A 120v machine won't weld 1/4" steel without pre-heat/multiple passes, bevel, etc.
Looking at a 200 amp (or larger) machine to do 1/4"


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## Woodchuck71 (Jul 19, 2020)

Well,I'm confused.
A suitcase welder runs of YOUR engine driven welder.
Your welder supplies the power/amps to the machine.
Work best with a machine that has CC/CV. 
You have a 200amp engine driven welder/generator,right?
Why not use it to weld heavier/thicker material?
Guess I'm missing something.
But,110v ,look at the Hobart handler 140.
Shouldn't break the bank($450 or so) and it's a solid Machine for 110 volt.
Muffler work the duty cycle will be plenty,you can weld 1/4" material with the correct bevel and a 3 pass weld,gas ready.


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## Huskybill (Jul 19, 2020)

I picked up a mint olde Hobart wisconsin powered 200 amp welder 4,000watt generator 100% duty cycle she’s a beast, I’d like to work her into my equipment as a power source. I’d like to operate a MiG and tig inverter welders from it. I want the MiG for tacking Metal inplace and doing muffler mods. I also need a tig for repairing cracks in magnesium cases. Mount her on a nice trailer with a folding bench. I better find out what Power the genny makes first. I wonder if it can power low end 220 v machines.


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## ironman_gq (Jul 22, 2020)

Millermatic® 211 MIG Welder | MillerWelds


Welds material from 24 gauge - 3/8 in. thick in a single pass. Find Millermatic 211 product specifications, features, and reviews.




www.millerwelds.com


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## ChoppyChoppy (Jul 29, 2020)

4kw gen set isn't going to power many MIG and most TIG welders.

I tried running my Lincoln 175 off a 4kw Generac. It constantly tripped the breaker or stalled it.
A 7.5kw gen set runs it ok, though it doesn't weld as smooth.
Maybe just my setup.

Not to mention MIG is tough to do outside if there's much more than a light breeze. TIG isn't happening.

Do you not have electricity at your garage?


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## Ted Jenkins (Jul 30, 2020)

ChoppyChoppy said:


> 4kw gen set isn't going to power many MIG and most TIG welders.
> I tried running my Lincoln 175 off a 4kw Generac. It constantly tripped the breaker or stalled it.A 7.5kw gen set runs it ok, though it doesn't weld as smooth.Maybe just my setup. Not to mention MIG is tough to do outside if there's much more than a light breeze. TIG isn't happening.
> Do you not have electricity at your garage?



All the portable stuff I have ever used or tried do not weld smooth. The best diesel powered portable units are the best because of the inertia they have. The startup cycle is where the problem is. It takes a moment to strike the arc as compared to a powered grid. Thanks


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## ChoppyChoppy (Jul 31, 2020)

Ted Jenkins said:


> All the portable stuff I have ever used or tried do not weld smooth. The best diesel powered portable units are the best because of the inertia they have. The startup cycle is where the problem is. It takes a moment to strike the arc as compared to a powered grid. Thanks



We have an old Miller engine driven stick welder.
Onan or maybe Briggs engine, I forget.
Was given to us, was high hours and it a bit of a mosquito fogger.
It takes some getting used to to run that thing.
Strike an arc and it bogs down for a second. It's enough that often end up sticking the rod or losing the arc.


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## Woodchuck71 (Jul 31, 2020)

Maybe you haven't used good equipment yet?


Ted Jenkins said:


> All the portable stuff I have ever used or tried do not weld smooth. The best diesel powered portable units are the best because of the inertia they have. The startup cycle is where the problem is. It takes a moment to strike the arc as compared to a powered grid. Thanks


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## Franny K (Aug 7, 2020)

The 120 or 110 volt wire feed welders are generally for flux core self shielding wire. Mig, metal inert gas, needs the polarity switched. Same with cored gas shielded wire though I doubt it comes small enough for this class. How easy to switch polarity on this class welder? Obviously a gas solenoid compatible device.


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## Woodchuck71 (Aug 7, 2020)

On a quality machine you just switch the two leads


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## sean donato (Aug 7, 2020)

I have an everlast 140i mig for light work. It has worked well for me for since 2014. Consumables have never been an issue as it take the euro style tweeco mig lead and the ground clamp is a ground clamp. I have had 2 issues with it, the power cord is way too short, and the on off switch in the back of the unit.(would have been nice to be on the front) I guess not problems so much as inconvenient. I do wish I had bought a bigger machine, as I have to run and borrow my dads lincoln 225 ranger for bigger projects. Polarity change is easy, and it came set up for gas. May be one day I'll get to own a miller or Lincoln. Just my 2 cents


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## Lionsfan (Aug 8, 2020)

My 140 Hobart had a stud on the drive mechanism and a stud connected to the frame about 2 inches away from it. All you had to do was switch the leads back and forth, takes a 9/16" wrench (I think if memory serves me right) and about 2 minutes of your time. The 210 Miller I had was similar.


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## catbuster (Aug 10, 2020)

Get yourself a TIG torch, a bottle of gas, hoses, and a power block and learn how to run a dry rig. That’ll get you your thin stuff way better than a MIG machine. Run some 3/32” 7018s for the rest of what you’re describing.

For those who‘ll go out and say you can’t TIG weld outside, it’s a bunch of malarky. Build something around you to stop air movement. All you need is a couple of tarps & something to hold them up. Been there, done it on more than one occasion.

If you really want a MIG machine to run off a drop cord, Lincoln has their 140 & 210MP machines, and I’ll personally vouch for the 210MP being a great machine. Miller has their 211 which probably works great too.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Aug 11, 2020)

catbuster said:


> For those who‘ll go out and say you can’t TIG weld outside, it’s a bunch of malarky. Build something around you to stop air movement. All you need is a couple of tarps & something to hold them up. Been there, done it on more than one occasion.



Point I was making is that it's not a typical welding method for outdoors.

I'm not sure on the OPs setup, but I had in mind he was trying to put together something like a service truck to be able to do work out in the field. 

Sure you can build a tent around the workpiece to shield it from the wind.


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## Franny K (Aug 11, 2020)

catbuster said:


> Get yourself a TIG torch, a bottle of gas, hoses, and a power block and learn how to run a dry rig. That’ll get you your thin stuff way better than a MIG machine. Run some 3/32” 7018s for the rest of what you’re describing.
> 
> For those who‘ll go out and say you can’t TIG weld outside, it’s a bunch of malarky. Build something around you to stop air movement. All you need is a couple of tarps & something to hold them up. Been there, done it on more than one occasion.
> 
> If you really want a MIG machine to run off a drop cord, Lincoln has their 140 & 210MP machines, and I’ll personally vouch for the 210MP being a great machine. Miller has their 211 which probably works great too.


Welding generally needs to be able to see what one is doing. Not sure what sort of eye sight Bill has or what sort of helmet. (actually I do know what he has posted elsewhere) It also takes an amount of skill. 7024 really does not take a lot of skill if positioned properly. Works great if the material is thick enough for the rods. Not for thin stuff. Oxy acetylene seems to be able to tack things without virtually any forces like sticks or wires can induce. Then take inside and tig. I don't know if the engine drive he has is dc but if it is tig should be possible to some degree.

Why dry? get a water cooled torch with a knob for the gas and run total loss off a garden hose.


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## catbuster (Aug 11, 2020)

Franny K said:


> Why dry? get a water cooled torch with a knob for the gas and run total loss off a garden hose.



A dry rig is interchangeable with scratch start TIG. I guess you could run a water cooled torch, but most people running off an engine drive are just running the stinger set to straight polarity attached to a power block that also acts as the connection for Argon to the torch hose. It’s way easier to run a 17 or 26 with a valve than find water when in the field with a Trailblazer and a bottle of gas.

7024’s little brother 7014 can be run straight polarity and fast and produce an acceptable result on fairly thin material, they are a common option for welding steel decking.

@ChoppyChoppy TIG is a fairly common outdoor process in many industries. Pipefitters & boilermakers run it every day for stainless or other (generally process) piping where the welding procedure calls for it. It’s used in equipment repair on a regular basis, especially brazing with silicon bronze.


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