# Would like a parts list for Aux oiler.....



## CaseyForrest (Sep 29, 2006)

I know a few of you guys have put together your own oilers. I just got a couple 36" chains because I have some logs big enough to warrant the 36" bar. I know Im going to need more oil then the oiler on the saw, as it just keeps up with the 28" I use.

I would like to stick with fittings and such I can get locally, like TSC, HD and Lowes. 

I plan on not drilling the bar, and letting it dribble onto the bottm side of the bar/chain just past the nose. I think Ill use clear tubing from the tank to where I mount it on the mill, and then from there Ill use bendable copper. Or I may use Copper all the way. What makes a good tank? Ive seen some made out of PVC pipe. Or maybe a Nalgene bottle.....

Suggestions anyone. Oh...and pics of your homemade Aux Oiler would be nice too!!!

Thanks.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 29, 2006)

I'm sure you have seen these already.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=37090

I had this initially set up to dribble on the bar as well. It wastes a lot of oil and I'm not confident it gets everywhere it needs to be BUT it's better than nothing. I had a brass ball valve on it at first but it always vibrated to wide open. The plastic valve that's on it now works much better. If you would like to see more angles of mine let me know and I'll get more pics up.


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## woodshop (Sep 29, 2006)

I dunno Casey... I planned on putting an aux oiler on my 36" csm when I got it also, but after using it for a while I found that I really didn't need any if I turn up my 395 oiler all the way. I always have a ton of buildup down on the inside of the csm guard consisting of bar oil mixed with that fine dust a csm gives off. That tells me I have oil down there at the end of the bar. My ripping chain is not as oily as if I was cutting normally and had the oiler full blast, but it's not dry either. Curious what chainsaw you are using on that 28" that "barely keeps up"? Maybe my 395 just puts out a ton of oil, and another saw might not work. Although my Stihl 460 oiler also keeps up with its 32 inch bar on the csm when its oiler is turned all the way up. I use only Stihl bar oil... maybe that makes a difference too.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 29, 2006)

Woodshop, Im using a 660 with the HO oiler upgrade. It oils fine with the 28", but for what I think is enough oil, its just enough. I always err on the side of more oil as opposed to chain wear and bar wear. Not sure if you remember reading where I said Ive had the bar and chain so hot I couldnt touch them. I do use Stihl oil as well. 

Most of what I have to mill is hardwood. So the saw is usually wound up for awhile per cut. If Im lucky, I can get 2 8' cuts per tank of fuel. And the oil tank is usually still at least 1/3 full.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 29, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> I'm sure you have seen these already.
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=37090
> 
> I had this initially set up to dribble on the bar as well. It wastes a lot of oil and I'm not confident it gets everywhere it needs to be BUT it's better than nothing. I had a brass ball valve on it at first but it always vibrated to wide open. The plastic valve that's on it now works much better. If you would like to see more angles of mine let me know and I'll get more pics up.



Aggie, what do you have in the way of parts there? Thats sort of what Im thinking.

Did you drill and tap threads into the bottom of your reservoir? I see you ended your tube into a brass 90. Did you route the last part of your oiler through your plastic block that you made to fix the discrepancy in the mill?


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## dustytools (Sep 29, 2006)

I saw a picture somewhere of a homemade oiler. It was made from a small lawnmower gas tank which was already set-up for a tube or line for feed. It had a shutoff valve to control the flow of oil and a copper tube at the end of the rubber line to direct the oil properly. It was mounted to a small post with large radiator clamps similar to the one that Granberg sells.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 29, 2006)

dustytools said:


> I saw a picture somewhere of a homemade oiler. It was made from a small lawnmower gas tank which was already set-up for a tube or line for feed. It had a shutoff valve to control the flow of oil and a copper tube at the end of the rubber line to direct the oil properly. It was mounted to a small post with large radiator clamps similar to the one that Granberg sells.



I thought of the same thing. I dont want to spend what Im sure will be a months pay for a new gas tank!!! LOL

Ill have to check TSC and see if they have anything on the shelf.


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## poleframer (Sep 29, 2006)

Anyone else try stihl "winter weight" bar oil? Came in a blue jug I think. I ran a jug, seemed thinner than reg. oil, but yet sticky like bar oil should be. I liked the way it flowed, but my local dealer didnt get more than a case or two.Nobody liked it I guess. I did. Might be worth trying. 
Russell


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## oldsaw (Sep 29, 2006)

Casey, run the oil into the groove using a drilled bolt like Granberg. Dribbling the oil on the bar isn't going to work as well, but will make a bigger mess. All they do is drill out a 1/4" bolt, drill about a 3/32" hole crosswise, and then you drill the bar at the back side of the groove...easy. Grind off the top threads, but leave enough to get a nut and washer on.

You can use anything for a tank. I believe someone here used PVC even, a piece of pipe with two caps. You will need a tight valve with a hose barb output, and you are in business. Mount it with big hose clamps.

Mark


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## Freakingstang (Sep 30, 2006)

I haven't built one yet, but I have a couple plastic fuel tanks from various small briggs and other engines. they hold about 1 quart of fluid and I would think they would make a good addition to a CSM aux oiler setup. It is plastic and doesn't weigh as much as the older metal tanks. I think it even has a 5/16" barbed fitting on the end of it....just need a valve, some hose, and a little stand to mount it on and you;d be in business!


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 30, 2006)

I think the gas tank is going to be the way to go.

Ill see about drilling the bar, but I only have 1 36" bar. I cant see how drilling a hole in the rail will hurt it for regular use, but will it?


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## flht01 (Sep 30, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> I think the gas tank is going to be the way to go.
> 
> Ill see about drilling the bar, but I only have 1 36" bar. I cant see how drilling a hole in the rail will hurt it for regular use, but will it?



I use a drilled 36" bar for regular use and the holes won't make any difference, they just plug up with chips. Just take the oiler bolt out for regulear use and put it back for milling. (I do have to use compressed air to clean the holes out.) I was using bar oil at first but have since started using old motor oil (for the aux oiler) and it works fine. The oiler bolt has holes drilled in it to distribute the oil in the groove and it does a good job of regulating the flow rate. I'll try to get a few pictures before the weekend's over.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 30, 2006)

poleframer said:


> Anyone else try stihl "winter weight" bar oil? Came in a blue jug I think. I ran a jug, seemed thinner than reg. oil, but yet sticky like bar oil should be. I liked the way it flowed, but my local dealer didnt get more than a case or two.Nobody liked it I guess. I did. Might be worth trying.
> Russell



I do use winter weight, well, in the winter!!!

I did use it for awhile because I thought it may flow easier. After a few tanks, I noticed I wasnt using any more oil then if I had regular weight in the tank.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 30, 2006)

oldsaw said:


> Casey, run the oil into the groove using a drilled bolt like Granberg. Dribbling the oil on the bar isn't going to work as well, but will make a bigger mess. All they do is drill out a 1/4" bolt, drill about a 3/32" hole crosswise, and then you drill the bar at the back side of the groove...easy. Grind off the top threads, but leave enough to get a nut and washer on.
> 
> You can use anything for a tank. I believe someone here used PVC even, a piece of pipe with two caps. You will need a tight valve with a hose barb output, and you are in business. Mount it with big hose clamps.
> 
> Mark



Hey Mark, can you elaborate on the oiler bolt?

If im getting this right, take a 1/4" bolt, drill it out so its hollow? Where does the 3/32 come in?


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## Freakingstang (Sep 30, 2006)

If I can explain my thoughts....Here is what I think he means:

Take the bolt, with the head on the bottom of the bar, 3/32 hole gets drilled both perpendicular and parallel to the bar. The hose will slip over the bolt and feed (the hollow part of the bolt) then the cross hole will allow it to hit the chain channel on the bar.


That is my interpretation of his setup, and might work quite well. I could be totally off base, though.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 30, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> Aggie, what do you have in the way of parts there? Thats sort of what Im thinking.
> 
> Did you drill and tap threads into the bottom of your reservoir? I see you ended your tube into a brass 90. Did you route the last part of your oiler through your plastic block that you made to fix the discrepancy in the mill?



I didn't have a 12" NPT thread tap so I threaded it by drilling a slightly undersized hole and force threading a brass fitting into it. The plastic valve threaded into the "threads' left by the fitting and seals very well. The oil does pass through the plastic block and into the short piece of tubing that touches the bar. I'll get some pictures of the parts later today.


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## hautions11 (Sep 30, 2006)

*Oiler*

Freak, that is my read as well. Grinding the threads on the end of the bolt, so the tube will slip on the end. Leave threads on the bolt near the bar, so you can tighten the bolt on to the bar. You could get real slick and try to tap the bar, but with the groove in the bar there may not be enough "meat" left to get a good set of threads.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 30, 2006)

I use the cheapest 5w-20 motor oil I can find in the auxiliary oiler. I've tried bar oil and various weights of motor oil and this one works the best for me. IMO the tacking agent really isn't necessary in this setup because you are supplying oil on both sides of the chain. Plus, the thinner oil seem to work it's way into the chain better when enough is present. I still use regular bar oil in the saw.


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## flht01 (Sep 30, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> Hey Mark, can you elaborate on the oiler bolt?
> 
> If im getting this right, take a 1/4" bolt, drill it out so its hollow? Where does the 3/32 come in?



I've got the aux kit from granberg and will see if I can find the installation instructions. If I'm not mistaken, it shows the bolt and instructions on installing it along with instructions/dimensions on drilling the bar.

My grandson has me busy today so it might be a day or two before I get it posted. I'll measure my bolt and get a few pict's if I can't find the instruction sheet.

kevin


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## oldsaw (Sep 30, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> Hey Mark, can you elaborate on the oiler bolt?
> 
> If im getting this right, take a 1/4" bolt, drill it out so its hollow? Where does the 3/32 come in?



You want a bigger hole drilled through the bolt lengthwise, the 3/32 holes are cross drilled near the head of the bolt, one bar rail height above the head. Run a nut onto the bolt, then grind off some of the threads on the end so the tube can seal without leaking.

That way the hole drilled in the bar is just behind the bottom of the rail. On one bar I got it a bit too far into the bar and had to drill a hole through the bottom of the bar groove to allow oil to pass. Only missed by about 1/32". The 3/32" holes will feed the inside of the groove.

Make more sense. You can even buy the bolt, and nut from Granberg for a few bucks. That's what I did for my second bar.

Mark


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## casey v (Sep 30, 2006)

I have made up a couple of bolts but haven't installed one yet. I drilled a brass bollt lengthwise and the cross drilled it to where it will fit in the bar groove. Once installed, I plan to make it fit in the groove so that the drivers don't hang up on it with a fine hachsaw blade.

Mike


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 30, 2006)

oldsaw said:


> You want a bigger hole drilled through the bolt lengthwise, the 3/32 holes are cross drilled near the head of the bolt, one bar rail height above the head. Run a nut onto the bolt, then grind off some of the threads on the end so the tube can seal without leaking.
> 
> That way the hole drilled in the bar is just behind the bottom of the rail. On one bar I got it a bit too far into the bar and had to drill a hole through the bottom of the bar groove to allow oil to pass. Only missed by about 1/32". The 3/32" holes will feed the inside of the groove.
> 
> ...



Ok, I may be lost, but Ill give it a go.

Drill a hole in the bar, just under the bottom of the bar groove. Now, take the 3/32 bit, and drill down between the rails, towards the center of the bar, and intersect the hole you drilled for the bolt. Insert the modified bolt, and the hole that is drilled along the width of the bolt will oil the bar groove. Correct?

Does someone have a picture?!?!? LOL

After re-reading, I think I asnwered my own question. If you drill the hole, so you are getting into the bar groove with the bolt, dont you run the risk of the drivers catching the bolt?


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## oldsaw (Sep 30, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> I use the cheapest 5w-20 motor oil I can find in the auxiliary oiler. I've tried bar oil and various weights of motor oil and this one works the best for me. IMO the tacking agent really isn't necessary in this setup because you are supplying oil on both sides of the chain. Plus, the thinner oil seem to work it's way into the chain better when enough is present. I still use regular bar oil in the saw.



If you want thinner oil, the Poulan stuff at Walmart in the short gallon bottle is a lot thinner than most. Thinner than I like in the saw for summer use.

Mark


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## flht01 (Sep 30, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> Ok, I may be lost, but Ill give it a go.
> 
> Drill a hole in the bar, just under the bottom of the bar groove. Now, take the 3/32 bit, and drill down between the rails, towards the center of the bar, and intersect the hole you drilled for the bolt. Insert the modified bolt, and the hole that is drilled along the width of the bolt will oil the bar groove. Correct?
> 
> ...



Granberg recommends drilling the hole so aprox 1/8 of the top of the hole is protruding into the bar groove. They recommend a 5/16" hole for their bolt (mpn#967).
If you drill a hole in the bar and a hole in the bar groove intersecting the hole in the bar you'll get the same effect. Sounds like your on the right track. Drill slow, less than 80 rpm and use lots of drill/tap oil.


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## CaseyForrest (Oct 1, 2006)

flht01 said:


> Granberg recommends drilling the hole so aprox 1/8 of the top of the hole is protruding into the bar groove. They recommend a 5/16" hole for their bolt (mpn#967).
> If you drill a hole in the bar and a hole in the bar groove intersecting the hole in the bar you'll get the same effect. Sounds like your on the right track. Drill slow, less than 80 rpm and use lots of drill/tap oil.



It started to make sense after I stopped thinking about it.

It didnt occur to me that the aux oiler bolt went all the way through the bar. I thought it was just a hole on one side, in only the rail.

Im also leaning towards using PVC. Im going to attempt to attach it so it will swivel. I believe it would make it allot easier to remove the saw, and set the entire rig down without needing to leave it on its side.


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## flht01 (Oct 1, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> It started to make sense after I stopped thinking about it.
> 
> It didnt occur to me that the aux oiler bolt went all the way through the bar. I thought it was just a hole on one side, in only the rail.
> 
> Im also leaning towards using PVC. Im going to attempt to attach it so it will swivel. I believe it would make it allot easier to remove the saw, and set the entire rig down without needing to leave it on its side.



Granberg's bolt has a little machine work done creating two shoulders and a recessed grove for a tighter fit in the bar but a plain bolt with a hole drilled lenghtways and one drill crossways is all that's needed. It won't matter if you leak a little around the bar or where the hose slips on as long as most ends up in the bar groove. One other thing, I'd mark the bolt head so you'll know the direction of the cross drilled hole, it'll make it a lot easier to line it up with the bar groove hole.

I usually fill my tank about half full so I can set it down standing up. That keeps the oil from spilling out of the vent hole in the cap. I usually top off the aux oiler about every second or third tank.


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## CaseyForrest (Oct 1, 2006)

flht01 said:


> Granberg's bolt has a little machine work done creating two shoulders and a recessed grove for a tighter fit in the bar but a plain bolt with a hole drilled lenghtways and one drill crossways is all that's needed. It won't matter if you leak a little around the bar or where the hose slips on as long as most ends up in the bar groove. One other thing, I'd mark the bolt head so you'll know the direction of the cross drilled hole, it'll make it a lot easier to line it up with the bar groove hole.
> 
> I usually fill my tank about half full so I can set it down standing up. That keeps the oil from spilling out of the vent hole in the cap. I usually top off the aux oiler about every second or third tank.



I can put a copper or rubber washer between the bolt head and the bar.

Im thinking about making a PVC tube, probably out of 2" or 2.5", glue a cap on the bottom, and glue a slip to thread fitting on the top. Thay way I can have a threaded cap, and seal it if I need to.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Oct 1, 2006)

Here's the pics Casey.


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## CaseyForrest (Oct 1, 2006)

Hey thanks Aggie. I used those plastic fittings when I built my pressure pump/gauge.

I think I may copy your design, almost to the tee!!!


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## CaseyForrest (Oct 1, 2006)

Here she is. The zip ties are temporary. I dont have clamps big enough to go around the pipe. I also still need to attach it to the mill. I had an epiphany in the shower. I think I may construct it so the oiler slides onto permanent rails attached to the mill. That way its easily removeable.






I started out with a plastic valve like Aggie had. Ended up putting a little to much tourqe to it, and it broke. I did, however, get to use my easy outs to remove what was left from the PVC cap!!!






Just another shot.






And a couple of the bolt I drilled. Keep in mind I dont have a bench vise, channel locks and a cordless drill.


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## oldsaw (Oct 1, 2006)

Good job Casey. I like ingenuity. I keep teasing Dad that I grew up on "Improvise Acres", since we were 25 miles from the nearest parts store, creativity was a good trait.

Mark


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## CaseyForrest (Oct 1, 2006)

I cant take the credit for it, I copied Aggies design.


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## oldsaw (Oct 1, 2006)

I know that, but you figured all the stuff out and built it.

Mark


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Oct 2, 2006)

Good job.


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## CaseyForrest (Oct 2, 2006)

OK, I believe Ive got all the bits and pieces I need to make the Oiler fully removeable. I should be able to get it drilled and mounted tomorrow, with pics.

I got my bar drilled tonite. Wasnt to bad, other then the first hole I drilled was to high into the rail!!! A little grinding action with the trusty dremel, and its fine. I did take the Diamond wheel for the Dremel, and slide it between the rails and opened up the hole where the oil will flow into the rail.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Oct 3, 2006)

I'd like to see how you make it removeable. Right now mine just stays on but it gets in the way when I'm transporting it sometimes.


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## CaseyForrest (Oct 3, 2006)

OK, here she is.....


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Oct 4, 2006)

Purdy kool!

Now...

How does it work?opcorn:


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## CaseyForrest (Oct 4, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Purdy kool!
> 
> Now...
> 
> How does it work?opcorn:




Well, it slides on and off that round stock pretty well!!!!


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## woodshop (Oct 4, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> Well, it slides on and off that round stock pretty well!!!!


Pretty nifty way to solve that problem casey... I might have to copycat that one if and when I put a aux oiler on my mill. Thanks for sharing it with us.


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## CaseyForrest (Oct 4, 2006)

Anytime woodshop. 

Aggie, to actually answer your question, I havent yet gotten to use it. Ill be helping a member here mill some White Oak on the 15th. Im sure I wont need the 36" bar, but Ill use it anyway to make sure the oiler works OK.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Oct 5, 2006)

I figured. I'm in the same boat. I have a long list of things I've made/ modified/ played with to try out. That's what not having a milling saw for 3 months will do to ya.


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## davvyd (Oct 5, 2006)

i just read this hole post on aux oilers and really have no IDEA what I was reading. however, Casey, I must say that I am not only excited, but honored to be the FIRST to try out your new "toy". 

Bring your chalk board, cuz your taking me to school!


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## CaseyForrest (Oct 8, 2006)

LOL Dave, it will most assuredly be a learning experience for both of us!!!


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## carvinmark (Oct 9, 2006)

I got to see it in person and it looks just a purdy!!! He brought it with him to our GTG.
Mark


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Oct 9, 2006)

I was going to ask if ya'll used it at your GTG. Well?...


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## CaseyForrest (Oct 9, 2006)

Didnt use the oiler. 10" white pine doesnt call for much oil!!! I did use the 36" bar though, no issues.

I put some oil in the oiler yesterday, just to see how it flows. It will work real nice. This coming sunday Ill get to use it, and I should have a few action shots to boot.


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