# Carb Kits, Any Difference Between K10-WAT and K20-WAT?



## vegaome (Jan 15, 2007)

Howdy Folks,
Ordering some carb kits and noticed that they offer a K10-WAT and a K20-WAT for Walbro WA and WT carbs. Is there any difference or one better than the other? Thanks

v/r

Mike


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 15, 2007)

They both cover a wide range of carbs... I buy the K10 and it does pretty much everything. You might need to get some of the smaller needles for later carbs.


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## Fish (Jan 16, 2007)

The main difference is the different little circuit plate gaskets, which rarely
get used anyway. The k20 gives you both needles though.


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 16, 2007)

The last few bunches of K20 we got didn't include both needles (and they are supposed to have them)... and that was the reason we got them. There was also something else not in the K20 that the K10 had, but I can't remember what. Of course, we needed it..

Best to check your actual carb type against the Walbro kit list.


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## vegaome (Jan 16, 2007)

Thanks Fella's, 

Will try to give some rep but like others it won't let me.

v/r
Mike

Oh wait I could give Fish some but not Andy.


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## Lakeside53 (Jan 16, 2007)

vegaome said:


> Thanks Fella's,
> 
> Will try to give some rep but like others it won't let me.
> 
> ...



He deserves it more than me! I'm just a newcomer...


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## Fish (Jan 17, 2007)

Ah yes, the ole rep crap.
Yes, I need all of the good "rep" I can get, to try to balance out my drunken
rantings that I may or may not unleash upon some of the kids scampering about here.
I actually love children, medium rare...........

I am really a nice person, 








really..............................................................................


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## vegaome (Jan 17, 2007)

Lakeside53 said:


> The last few bunches of K20 we got didn't include both needles (and they are supposed to have them)... and that was the reason we got them. There was also something else not in the K20 that the K10 had, but I can't remember what. Of course, we needed it..
> 
> Best to check your actual carb type against the Walbro kit list.




Howdy Andy,

I looked for a Walbro kit list on the internet but could not find one. Do you have a good link to it? 

v/r
Mike


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## PES+ (Jan 17, 2007)

http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/family.asp


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## vegaome (Jan 17, 2007)

PEST said:


> http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/family.asp



Howdy PEST,

Thanks, I actually was looking at that before but when you select echo chainsaw then CS-510 it comes up blank. It does give you something when you type in the carb number though. I guess I should of played with it some more before asking. I just figured it was broke. Thanks again PEST and have a good evening.


v/r

Mike


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## weedeaterman (Jun 29, 2011)

*K10-WAT and K20-WAT Kit Difference or not?*

Hello everyone, I saw this Thread and had to log in and share some info. I do allot of work on these small Carburetors and I love rebuilding them. So here is the difference: The Metering Diaphragm and Gasket are different thickness based on the Walbro Kit number, one is thinner and or thicker than the other, based upon the Carburetor design. They are not the same and should not be swapped out. The setting of the Inlet Needle Valve is important also. Simple check can be on most by a straight edge others may require the special tool made by Walbro and or Zama, depending the design. some have deeper in let needle cavity and require a special tool. You can try to guess but it is hard. This setting of the inlet needle is vital also. It may allow too much gas in and or to little. The the High and Or low Needles will not adjust properly and allow the engine to run right if the Metering Diaphragm is correct and or if the inlet needle is set properly. Chain saws are a little more picky than weedeaters and or leaf blowers.

Also on the opposite side of the Needle assemble is the Fuel Pump Diaphragm. This has set thickness as well hence again use the proper kit for the right Carburetor. Taking a short cut will make you mad and spend more money thinking the Carb is not fixable.

I can also tell you how to properly clean them and also do a simple test to see if it is even worth fixing and or will it function right all. Just Ask!

I say 1 out of 10 are not repairable and a new one is needed!

If you have any questions please ask me. I love these things and I know allot about them!

Henry, The Weedeaterman.


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## zogger (Jun 29, 2011)

*Ok!*



weedeaterman said:


> Hello everyone, I saw this Thread and had to log in and share some info. I do allot of work on these small Carburetors and I love rebuilding them. So here is the difference: The Metering Diaphragm and Gasket are different thickness based on the Walbro Kit number, one is thinner and or thicker than the other, based upon the Carburetor design. They are not the same and should not be swapped out. The setting of the Inlet Needle Valve is important also. Simple check can be on most by a straight edge others may require the special tool made by Walbro and or Zama, depending the design. some have deeper in let needle cavity and require a special tool. You can try to guess but it is hard. This setting of the inlet needle is vital also. It may allow too much gas in and or to little. The the High and Or low Needles will not adjust properly and allow the engine to run right if the Metering Diaphragm is correct and or if the inlet needle is set properly. Chain saws are a little more picky than weedeaters and or leaf blowers.
> 
> Also on the opposite side of the Needle assemble is the Fuel Pump Diaphragm. This has set thickness as well hence again use the proper kit for the right Carburetor. Taking a short cut will make you mad and spend more money thinking the Carb is not fixable.
> 
> ...



I do hereby ask on the simple test! Got a trimmer carb out on the bench now going to get a kit, so I want to test it first. TIA


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## Fish (Jun 29, 2011)

weedeaterman said:


> Hello everyone, I saw this Thread and had to log in and share some info. I do allot of work on these small Carburetors and I love rebuilding them. So here is the difference: The Metering Diaphragm and Gasket are different thickness based on the Walbro Kit number, one is thinner and or thicker than the other, based upon the Carburetor design. They are not the same and should not be swapped out. The setting of the Inlet Needle Valve is important also. Simple check can be on most by a straight edge others may require the special tool made by Walbro and or Zama, depending the design. some have deeper in let needle cavity and require a special tool. You can try to guess but it is hard. This setting of the inlet needle is vital also. It may allow too much gas in and or to little. The the High and Or low Needles will not adjust properly and allow the engine to run right if the Metering Diaphragm is correct and or if the inlet needle is set properly. Chain saws are a little more picky than weedeaters and or leaf blowers.
> 
> Also on the opposite side of the Needle assemble is the Fuel Pump Diaphragm. This has set thickness as well hence again use the proper kit for the right Carburetor. Taking a short cut will make you mad and spend more money thinking the Carb is not fixable.
> 
> ...


 
Sorry, but I disagree.

Look up the kits for the wa 1-1
and the wt 305-1, calls for the k10-wat, and the k20-wat, respectively.
Both kits show the same part numbers for the metering gasket and metering diaphram.

On the Walbro site.......


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## weedeaterman (Jun 29, 2011)

*Ok*

It is good to disagree, Some Carbs do list two like K10 and K20, I am telling what the manufacture has told me and I have followed for years. Al these are designed and flow tested and have to meet certain requirements. It could be for California area and then different for New York area. My point for saying something is there is a reason for each kit and reason for each area based on Sea pressure and EPA requirements is my point. But not really knowing why each kit is listed and not knowing the area they live is wrong to say Oh it is ok to use it. That is my point in the E-mail. There is dynamics involved and a reason for what the company does. I have a direct rep E-mail and talk to the Walbro and Zama Tech rep about applications, how, why and what for.

But being clear on the topic to some people is important, digging in a Carb can cost you from 35 to 125 Bucks. So using the right kit to overhaul and set properly is important, or the novice person will spend money on a new one thinking his Carb is trashed, when it is really ok. just wrong stuff depending on location and application.

Henry, The Weedeaterman.


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## weedeaterman (Jun 29, 2011)

*test*



zogger said:


> I do hereby ask on the simple test! Got a trimmer carb out on the bench now going to get a kit, so I want to test it first. TIA



For the person at home that does not do Carbs allot there is a simple test they can preform on the carb to decide weather or not to keep it. First take it apart, Clean it, Then remove the (H) High adjustment jet. Use Carb Cleaner and or Brake Cleaner as some prefer and Stick in the Tube in the jet opening, Then flip it and look at the inside and look at the Nozzle Assembly, then as you are looking at it give a few burst of the Cleaner( Watch your eyes of course). You should see a decent spray of cleaner exit the Nozzle Assembly past the check valve, Lightly and the bust should not blow out the Nozzle Diaphragm. Do not use air, you will blow it out and ruin the Nozzle Assembly. if the jet allows spray out are good to go. This some times stick and will not let the High adjustment work and or allow any adjustment. If it is stuck soak in parts Cleaner, I use real parts Cleaner and Ultrasonic sink. It has a 9 out 10 times freed it up for me if it was stuck. But if you can not un stick this Nozzle, then trash it. The (L) Low or Idle side is easy test. Put the (H) or High needle back in and lightly seat it, Then remove the (L) low or Idle screw and Spray inside and verify all the jet ports have flow. Some times there are 1, 2 and even three holes. Do it well. You can even if careful, Clean a bread Tie and slightly bend it and check them clear by inserting the tie. it is slightly smaller than the port and will go in and free it up for you. Do it gently not to get it stuck in the port. Some times build happens on the (L) holes and slightly clogs them up, but still allows spray out, miss leading and will mess with the (L) Low and or Idle adjustment. The Idle will be jumpy and not steady out if this the case. It will not stay adjusted. This has cleared them out for me and allowed me not to remove the welch plug. A shop can remove the plug, but the home owner guy if not experience should leave the welch plug along. Also look for leak by the welch plug. you will have puddling around it. if that is the case and you have the tool re seat the plug. Then take Acrylic Finger Nail Polish and place a small coating around the edge and allow it to dry over night. This works well. Cleaning it this way with out removing welch plug and really checking clear has a good 9 out of 10 success rate. The one that does not usually needs the Welch plug removed. Then use the Wire off the bread tie to gently clean the port holes, reinstall the plug, seat it and lightly coat the edges with Acrylic Finger Nail polish.

In two years of getting back into and really rebuilding Carb's, I have had to buy 3 three new ones for people. All the shops around me will not rebuild them, they say it is too much trouble and money involved. So I do them for a shop on the side if the customer needs to save money, of course it has been allot lately. I was doing up to 2 rebuilds a night not to include Sundays.

I am telling this for the Home owner type person, the one that does not have the proper tools to stick their finger inside the Carb.

If yo disagree fine, it works for me and I have done over 500 rebuilds in the past 2 years or so. The only reason I am on blogs again is job change and I have time allowed to do so again.

So be easy on me as I am only sharing techniques and idea's ok.

Henry, The Weedeatermn.


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## w8ye (Jun 29, 2011)

*High Speed Nozzle Check Valve*

The high speed nozzle check valve is sometimes easily harmed, especially in Zama carbs.

If you blow into the high speed circuit with 100 psi air you can damage the nozzle cage and cause a sticky check ball.

The resulting symptom will be an engine with the mixture jumping all over the place at high speed.

So be careful.

I had a Tillotson HU83E with a bad high speed nozzle check valve when I got the saw. I do not know the history as the saw was given to me because the dealer thought it needed main bearing seals. Compression and crankcase pressure checks proved otherwise. New diaphragms and cleaning the carb didn't change anything. Rather than take a chance on just a new high speed nozzle, I bought a new carb and the saw runs perfect.

Enjoy


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## weedeaterman (Jun 29, 2011)

*Correct*



w8ye said:


> The high speed nozzle check valve is sometimes easily harmed, especially in Zama carbs.
> 
> If you blow into the high speed circuit with 100 psi air you can damage the nozzle cage and cause a sticky check ball.
> 
> ...


 

Correct air is wrong, been there done that. Not a great idea! Hence why I found using the cleaning fluid as a good source and had not blown the disk out since. I have done numerous destructive and disassembles to see how this was made and understand the issues with it. Also I have cut them in half and looked at the design, done different things with the welch plugs and so on. I now what you are saying and agree.

Henry


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## zogger (Jun 29, 2011)

*Thanks!*



weedeaterman said:


> For the person at home that does not do Carbs allot there is a simple test they can preform on the carb to decide weather or not to keep it. First take it apart, Clean it, Then remove the (H) High adjustment jet. Use Carb Cleaner and or Brake Cleaner as some prefer and Stick in the Tube in the jet opening, Then flip it and look at the inside and look at the Nozzle Assembly, then as you are looking at it give a few burst of the Cleaner( Watch your eyes of course). You should see a decent spray of cleaner exit the Nozzle Assembly past the check valve, Lightly and the bust should not blow out the Nozzle Diaphragm. Do not use air, you will blow it out and ruin the Nozzle Assembly. if the jet allows spray out are good to go. This some times stick and will not let the High adjustment work and or allow any adjustment. If it is stuck soak in parts Cleaner, I use real parts Cleaner and Ultrasonic sink. It has a 9 out 10 times freed it up for me if it was stuck. But if you can not un stick this Nozzle, then trash it. The (L) Low or Idle side is easy test. Put the (H) or High needle back in and lightly seat it, Then remove the (L) low or Idle screw and Spray inside and verify all the jet ports have flow. Some times there are 1, 2 and even three holes. Do it well. You can even if careful, Clean a bread Tie and slightly bend it and check them clear by inserting the tie. it is slightly smaller than the port and will go in and free it up for you. Do it gently not to get it stuck in the port. Some times build happens on the (L) holes and slightly clogs them up, but still allows spray out, miss leading and will mess with the (L) Low and or Idle adjustment. The Idle will be jumpy and not steady out if this the case. It will not stay adjusted. This has cleared them out for me and allowed me not to remove the welch plug. A shop can remove the plug, but the home owner guy if not experience should leave the welch plug along. Also look for leak by the welch plug. you will have puddling around it. if that is the case and you have the tool re seat the plug. Then take Acrylic Finger Nail Polish and place a small coating around the edge and allow it to dry over night. This works well. Cleaning it this way with out removing welch plug and really checking clear has a good 9 out of 10 success rate. The one that does not usually needs the Welch plug removed. Then use the Wire off the bread tie to gently clean the port holes, reinstall the plug, seat it and lightly coat the edges with Acrylic Finger Nail polish.
> 
> In two years of getting back into and really rebuilding Carb's, I have had to buy 3 three new ones for people. All the shops around me will not rebuild them, they say it is too much trouble and money involved. So I do them for a shop on the side if the customer needs to save money, of course it has been allot lately. I was doing up to 2 rebuilds a night not to include Sundays.
> 
> ...



That was all good stuff! The one I am doing now is fixed though, so it is a little different, but I do the carb clean with the little wand through every hole I can find, then new gaskets,etc. I don't own an ultrasonic cleaner yet though.


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## SkippyKtm (Jun 29, 2011)

Great thread, I can use all the help I can get!


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## weedeaterman (Jun 30, 2011)

*Harbor Fieight*



zogger said:


> That was all good stuff! The one I am doing now is fixed though, so it is a little different, but I do the carb clean with the little wand through every hole I can find, then new gaskets,etc. I don't own an ultrasonic cleaner yet though.


 
Harbor Freight has them, Cheap also: Ultrasonic Cleaner - Save on Ultrasonic Cleaners at HFT, if you do allot of them. I use it on really tough carbs and I want to save money. But I use real parts cleaner and not the organic type. That does not work and makes a mess. Autozone and or Advance sells the good stuff in a 5 gallon can. about 75 bucks though.

If you need something do not be afraid to ask, especially in the parts are!

Henry, The Weedeaterman.


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## weedeaterman (Jun 30, 2011)

*Chain Saws Exhaust*

Here is a little tidbit about Chainsaws,

Chainsaws run hot and worked hard as you guys know. It is very important to take care of them compared to a Weedeaters and other 2 cycle engines.

Chain saws have to vital area's to take care of after use. The number are is the exhaust. There are several more maintenance items to know and I will share in up coming threads as well. but here is the first one for now.

So again the really important area is the Exhaust area. Now you maybe going what, how come and why! 

On high end saws like Stihl for case in point, and I love Stihl by the way and know allot about them as a mechanic. The exhaust runs really, really hot. As you cut, debris is shot at the exhaust since it is in the front of the engine and clogs up the Cylinder fines and wood dust gets trapped in the oil residue and gathers around the Muffler. Well the muffler is not just for noise. It also helps remove the heat from the engine, and since they are air cooled by the Fly wheel spinning and that is where the majority of the air goes by this area, it is very important to maintain and keep clean. If you do not keep it clean, then this area heats up and does what Mechanics fear and not Arborist worry about and it is Called Piston Crowding.

You see fresh air comes in on the opposite side and is cooling intake side of the piston, since the piston does not spin around that side is several hundred degrees cooler than the exhaust already and as the exhaust gets dirty and dirtier, the exhaust temp rises and the piston swells and causes what the industry Mechanic call Piston Crowding. This is really bad news. Once you casue piston crowding is will continue to become worse and starts to wear excessively and starts to stick the rings against the Piston, then Compression is lost. Now the Saw Piston and cylinder gets damage and has to be replaced.

So keep the exhaust clean! But there are other areas as well that add to damaging that saw you love so much.

More to Follow.

Henry, The Weedeaterman.


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## weedeaterman (Jun 30, 2011)

*Chain Saws Maintenace*

Ok Here is Part two on the Chain saw maintenance.


The Arborist and everyday user always fail all the time to take care of the intake.

Taking care of the intake filter is as important as the exhaust if not more. When you starve the Chain saw of fresh air the burning of the fuel is weakened. In most cases you cause heavy residue to come out the exhaust due to the fact you are starving the engine of fresh air to burn the fuel properly. Then what happens the exhaust carbons up and and the engine slows down causing over heating and engine damage. Chain saws have to run high power and burn fuel. Not cleaning the air intake before each use and I mean in the morning when you start and mid day if you have cut allot is bad news and damaging the machine. So keep the intake clean, also after a while debris works it way past the filter and then ends up in the crank and piston casing damage also. Also dogs down the Carb performance. Remember the Carb is an eductor of air and uses the venturi effect to draw gas and make the Chainsaw operate.

So keep those inlet filters clean.

Henry, the Weedeaterman.


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## Fish (Jun 30, 2011)

weedeaterman said:


> It is good to disagree, Some Carbs do list two like K10 and K20, I am telling what the manufacture has told me and I have followed for years. Al these are designed and flow tested and have to meet certain requirements. It could be for California area and then different for New York area. My point for saying something is there is a reason for each kit and reason for each area based on Sea pressure and EPA requirements is my point. But not really knowing why each kit is listed and not knowing the area they live is wrong to say Oh it is ok to use it. That is my point in the E-mail. There is dynamics involved and a reason for what the company does. I have a direct rep E-mail and talk to the Walbro and Zama Tech rep about applications, how, why and what for.
> 
> But being clear on the topic to some people is important, digging in a Carb can cost you from 35 to 125 Bucks. So using the right kit to overhaul and set properly is important, or the novice person will spend money on a new one thinking his Carb is trashed, when it is really ok. just wrong stuff depending on location and application.
> 
> Henry, The Weedeaterman.


 
So, you are saying that the metering gasket and metering diaphram in the k10 and k20 are still different, even though they have the same part numbers? 


Same part numbers, but are still different if you live in California?

Just want it to be clear.....


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## Fish (Jun 30, 2011)

Yes, there is a few various metering diaphram gaskets in each kit, but have different shapes.

Here are a couple of pics of a Walbro book.View attachment 189036
View attachment 189037


Look at the part numbers


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## weedeaterman (Jun 30, 2011)

*K10-WAT and K20-WAT*



Fish said:


> So, you are saying that the metering gasket and metering diaphram in the k10 and k20 are still different, even though they have the same part numbers? Same part numbers, but are still different if you live in California?
> Just want it to be clear.....



How are these the same Part Number? K10-WAT and K20-WAT and clearly a different number.

You are going by the Part number Break down in the book, I can not answer that and had to ask the Tech code guy on the very same issue. He gave me the feed back on on the kits, I understand the part number in the break down book list the same number.

I am telling you what years ago Walbro told me.

So I do not know what else to tell ya. Also why not put in your profile who and what you do and experience you have so when people look they have an idea on who and what experience level they are talking to and with. Ne nice by the way!

Henry, The Weedeaterman.


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## weedeaterman (Jun 30, 2011)

*Awesome*



Fish said:


> Yes, there is a few various metering diaphram gaskets in each kit, but have different shapes.
> 
> Here are a couple of pics of a Walbro book.View attachment 189036
> View attachment 189037
> ...


 
I have to awesome you are a shop repair mechanic, since your profile does not list what and who you arr and or experiences in this area.

Be nice to know!

Henry, The Weedeaterman!


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## weedeaterman (Jun 30, 2011)

*Information*

I just wrote an E-mail the Walbro Tech code guy that I have been dealing with for the past 4 freaking years and asked him more details on this 2 Carb kits.

Once I find out more, I will post it.

Henry, The Weedeaterman.


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## Fish (Jun 30, 2011)

Each diaphram and gasket has a part number, the 2 pics of the book, show the carb model number at the top, and the repair kit needed
right below.
And the parts in the kit that apply to that kit below.
Look at the wa-205 and the wa-207, and scroll down to the diaphram and gasket part numbers, they are the same.

In the second pic, look at the wa-198 and wa-199, same part numbers, but different metering gasket from the first pair.

But both pairs list both kits.

I am being nice...............


Also, my experience working on this stuff is very limited, I really don't have much to brag about, experience wise........


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## w8ye (Jun 30, 2011)

*Walbro Online Parts Reference*

http
://wem.walbro
.com
/walbro/product2.asp?partnum=WT-76-1&Series=WT

If you put the above link together and place in the address bar in a new tab, you can see the parts list for the WT-76. The actual parts in the WT-76 are only the ones with part numbers.

You will notice that it lists the diaphragm kit as a D10-WAT but the complete repair kit with the needle and arm etc is a K20-WAT.

Therefore I would have to assume that the diaphragms are the same between the K10-WAT and the K20-WAT and the difference is in the long and short needle? 

However, you cannot put absolute complete faith in what the Walbro website or a person at Walbro says or even what you read on Aboristsite.

Also the The Stens kits have some variation from the genuine Walbro kits.


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## nmurph (Jun 30, 2011)

Weedy, is your real name Calvin?


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## PogoInTheWoods (Jun 30, 2011)

weedeaterman said:


> Also why not put in your profile who and what you do and experience you have so when people look they have an idea on who and what experience level they are talking to and with.



Stick around. You'll find out.


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## Fish (Jun 30, 2011)

I usually stock more of the k20 kits, since 90% of the wa and wt carbs both kits cover, but getting the extra needle makes the k20 more attractive for me, that is all.

Of course the circuit plate stuff is way different, but that rarely is an issue anymore.


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## roncoinc (Jun 30, 2011)

FISH you rascal !!!
i was watching and waiting to see how far this thread went with all the "great" informative info being posted and you had to step in  and spoil it..

weedeater,that Fish flla dont know nuthin,neva will..
i think he delivers parts or sumthin..


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## Fish (Jun 30, 2011)

roncoinc said:


> FISH you rascal !!!
> 
> weedeater,that Fish flla dont know nuthin,neva will..
> i think he delivers parts or sumthin..


 
Actually I deliver pizzas, that has been my base income for years, I just work on featherlites and wildthings on the side...

I found out long ago that the pizza biz had many benefits, especially when I make the pizzas by hand, work out the crust by hand, really gets my
fingernails clean!


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## Fish (Jun 30, 2011)

roncoinc said:


> FISH you rascal !!!
> i was watching and waiting to see how far this thread went with all the "great" informative info being posted and you had to step in  and spoil it..
> 
> weedeater,that Fish flla dont know nuthin,neva will..
> i think he delivers parts or sumthin..


 
You are correct! I think I killed this 5 year old thread! Abought time!


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## roncoinc (Jun 30, 2011)

Fish said:


> You are correct! I think I killed this 5 year old thread! Abought time!


 
Bummer man,,the wheed eater dude had some good stuff going,i was looking foreward to the next installment 
well,,pizza delivery is good credentials,probly deliver to a lot of saw shops !!
at least YOU got a job,just quit mine,three weeks working for a stihl dealership burned me out and i'm now happilly unemployed again.. so i dont have any credentials either !!


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## Fish (Jun 30, 2011)

No worries, being a Stihl Tech might garner you a job at Lowes, unless like me, there were some legal issues of long ago.........

Anyone named Weedeaterman must be a "hoot" to party with......

Sorry guys, I should just retire I guess......


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## Fish (Jun 30, 2011)

Simon, jump in, the water is "tepid"................


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## Simonizer (Jun 30, 2011)

The second I do the fuggin pizza guy will show up at the door. Did you get my PM?


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## Fish (Jun 30, 2011)

So, anyone else has a comment on whether the metering diaphram and gasket on both kits are the same?????

Are you really waiting for the e-mail from this "Walbro" guy????

Don't really care, just curious.

If I am wrong, and the lynch mob arrives, just bring a real big rope, as I am a fat, lazy pizza guy......

Homelite actually had some different parts, with the same part number, so it is not totally un-heard of.....


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## Fish (Jun 30, 2011)

Simonizer said:


> The second I do the fuggin pizza guy will show up at the door. Did you get my PM?



Yes I did!!!!

We use "Freakin"!!!!!! down here in the states, "Fuggin" is for "Puthies" from Canada......

You have pizza up there? Mushrooms or truffles?


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## Simonizer (Jun 30, 2011)

I think they are identical. Even if the thickness was different by a thou or two it would be of no significant relevance. These little carbs are fussy but not THAT fussy. No need for a scanning electron microscope for a rebuild.


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## Simonizer (Jun 30, 2011)

Fish said:


> Yes I did!!!!
> 
> We use "Freakin"!!!!!! down here in the states, "Fuggin" is for "Puthies" from Canada......
> 
> You have pizza up there? Mushrooms or truffles?


We invented pizza. The Italians stole it from us while we were out cod fishin' down by da bay bye. Mushrooms are easier to find, just pick them off the bark of the tree I occupy. Pi**es Bilbo Baggins off to no end.


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## edisto (Jun 30, 2011)

weedeaterman said:


> I have to awesome you are a shop repair mechanic, since your profile does not list what and who you arr and or experiences in this area.


 
Don't. You'll make an awe out of so and me.



And that will probably get do and re riled up.


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## edisto (Jun 30, 2011)

Simonizer said:


> We invented pizza. The Italians stole it from us while we were out cod fishin' down by da bay bye. Mushrooms are easier to find, just pick them off the bark of the tree I occupy. Pi**es Bilbo Baggins off to no end.


 
Lard tunderin' Mary...dat's poutine, not pizza, bye. An dere ain't been cod here for an eskimos age.


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## Simonizer (Jun 30, 2011)

edisto said:


> Don't. You'll make an awe out of so and me.
> 
> 
> 
> And that will probably get do and re riled up.


lol, assume post buddy.


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## weedeaterman (Jun 30, 2011)

*nice*



w8ye said:


> http
> ://wem.walbro
> .com
> /walbro/product2.asp?partnum=WT-76-1&Series=WT
> ...



Nice research! Love it!


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## weedeaterman (Jun 30, 2011)

*Ok*



Fish said:


> Each diaphram and gasket has a part number, the 2 pics of the book, show the carb model number at the top, and the repair kit needed
> right below.
> And the parts in the kit that apply to that kit below.
> Look at the wa-205 and the wa-207, and scroll down to the diaphram and gasket part numbers, they are the same.
> ...


 
Ok but good info anyways, Always some thing to learn!


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## weedeaterman (Jun 30, 2011)

nmurph said:


> Weedy, is your real name Calvin?


 
No Henry. Not Calvin, Funny though love it!


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## weedeaterman (Jun 30, 2011)

*Gas treatment*

Does anyone know a great gas treatment for your gas, Especially Chain Saws?

I know, do you want to know?

Henry, The Weedeaterman.


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## Simonizer (Jun 30, 2011)

weedeaterman said:


> No Henry. Not Calvin, Funny though love it!


We're not really picking on you buddy. You mean well and are trying to provide some tech help to people and that is admirable. Just remember there are some guys on this site that have done thousands of carb kits, thousands of modified saws, decades of experience. This site has a very wide spectrum of members from slack-jawed burger flipping yokels, to engineers, to machinists, and back again. One guy even lives in his mom's basement and has a neck-beard. Grow a thick skin and dive in. Be right back, my mom is calling me.


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## weedeaterman (Jun 30, 2011)

*Forums*



Simonizer said:


> We're not really picking on you buddy. You mean well and are trying to provide some tech help to people and that is admirable. Just remember there are some guys on this site that have done thousands of carb kits, thousands of modified saws, decades of experience. This site has a very wide spectrum of members from slack-jawed burger flipping yokels, to engineers, to machinists, and back again. One guy even lives in his mom's basement and has a neck-beard. Grow a thick skin and dive in. Be right back, my mom is calling me.


 
I was doing a ton of forums in the Small engines ones and ran across a ton of A-holes so I stopped. I was looking for Pics for my website to upload and found this one. I liked what I read and thought I help the Chain saw guys out since this year I had to fix 12 or more due to various things. So far I am good. Plus I have a few I want to sell and have not had any luck. 

Hopefully you guys can help. I have like 5 Stihls in pieces and a Shindawia 350 and Stihl ready for sale. So who knows what will happen. Then I have a freaking Poulan on the bench and kicking my butt. Carb flooding out, I may have the needle adjusted wrong, I will work on it tomorrow! I hate working on Poulans and new Homelites.

Thanks and I appreciate it.

Henry, The Weedeaterman.


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## Fish (Jun 30, 2011)

Simonizer said:


> We invented pizza. The Italians stole it from us while we were out cod fishin' down by da bay bye. Mushrooms are easier to find, just pick them off the bark of the tree I occupy. Pi**es Bilbo Baggins off to no end.


 
Meeting at the "Inn of the Prancing Pony"!!!!!!!

If that is not a "gay" bar, then I am a confused 10 year old doing cartwheels in gym class, wondering why all of my buddies are laughing.....


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## Simonizer (Jun 30, 2011)

Sometimes a carb can appear to be flooding out because an exhaust screen in plugged. Think outside the box. If you have pressure testing equipment you can fully diagnose any carb in about 15 mins. Sometimes submerging it in a little margarine container of water. The relatively newer ones have an accelerater pump circuit that can develop a scored bore. Bubbles underwater always tell the truth.


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## Fish (Jun 30, 2011)

weedeaterman said:


> I was doing a ton of forums in the Small engines ones and ran across a ton of A-holes so I stopped.
> 
> Henry, The Weedeaterman.



Well, you have hit the "motherload" here.......


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## Simonizer (Jun 30, 2011)

Fish said:


> Meeting at the "Inn of the Prancing Pony"!!!!!!!
> 
> If that is not a "gay" bar, then I am a confused 10 year old doing cartwheels in gym class, wondering why all of my buddies are laughing.....


They did seem a little friendly.


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## weedeaterman (Jun 30, 2011)

Fish said:


> Well, you have hit the "motherload" here.......



ok get your laugh now!

I gotcha!


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## Simonizer (Jun 30, 2011)

He meant Mother lode. Cut him some slack, he breathes through gills. lol.


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## Fish (Jun 30, 2011)

No, just razzing you a bit.

These forums are funny, if you are new and start posting advice, the old crew gets their hair/hackles raised, so there is a bit of "peeing on tires"
to get aquainted.

But, if coming onto a new forum, and make a false statement, then you need some hazing.
I talk to the Walbro guys every year at the Expo in Louisville, these guys actually work for Walbro, unlike your dist. rep.,no matter really,
they all push selling new carbs, no troubleshooting.

Seriously, I will give you h ell, that is just my job....

Stick around, make more posts.


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## weedeaterman (Jul 1, 2011)

*Good Stuff*



Fish said:


> No, just razzing you a bit.
> 
> These forums are funny, if you are new and start posting advice, the old crew gets their hair/hackles raised, so there is a bit of "peeing on tires"
> to get aquainted.
> ...


 

Fish it is all good, but I do wonder though, with 9,000 plus post, do you have a tray attached to your stomach to hold the computer and wireless ran up your behind? I have no idea how a person can so many post, 9,000 for heaven sake! When do you sleep and take a piss?

Good news I picked up a local Harley shop that handles and runs all the supply stuff for 6 other stores and now they buy a cool product strictly from me. So now my Pizza Place can grow! Oh by the way I made Pizza, by the way I am a hairy dude so imagine what was in my Pizza's!

Just a little crap back at yeah! 

Henry, The Weedeaterman!


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## Fish (Jul 1, 2011)

As far as the number of posts, not too many since I have been here a real long time. You have only been here a day or two, at your rate you will hit 10,000 posts in a year or so.

As far as being hairy, I have hair over 99% of my body, used to be %100, but that rubbed off!


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## weedeaterman (Jul 1, 2011)

*I see*



Fish said:


> As far as the number of posts, not too many since I have been here a real long time. You have only been here a day or two, at your rate you will hit 10,000 posts in a year or so.
> 
> As far as being hairy, I have hair over 99% of my body, used to be %100, but that rubbed off!


 
Nice Fish, Just messing with ya. I am glad I found a group of people that joke and mess around and do not take it serious and have such a wealth of Knowledge.

Again what is the Best gas additive for your stuff? This is a Quiz plus I want feedback on what you think!

Henry, The Weedeaterman.


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## edisto (Jul 1, 2011)

weedeaterman said:


> Fish it is all good, but I do wonder though, with 9,000 plus post, do you have a tray attached to your stomach to hold the computer and wireless ran up your behind? I have no idea how a person can so many post, 9,000 for heaven sake! When do you sleep and take a piss?


 
9,000 posts over the duration of Fish's tenure as an AS member amounts to a paltry 2.42 posts a day. Assuming you don't post again today, your rate is 24.66 posts per day. That's a difference of an order of magnitude, and extrapolated over the same time frame would amount to 91,488 posts. 

It's also slightly more than 1 post per hour...



Fish said:


> As far as the number of posts, not too many since I have been here a real long time. You have only been here a day or two, at your rate you will hit 10,000 posts in a year or so.



One year and 39.46 days.


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## edisto (Jul 1, 2011)

weedeaterman said:


> Again what is the Best gas additive for your stuff? This is a Quiz plus I want feedback on what you think!


 
Just a warning weedeater, you cannot use the site to sell anything unless you pay the fee to become a sponsor. I'm not sure that is where you are headed, but the talk of a Harley dealer buying "cool stuff" from you, and your gas additive quizzes suggest you might be peering over the edge of a slippery slope.


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## weedeaterman (Jul 1, 2011)

*Roger*



edisto said:


> Just a warning weedeater, you cannot use the site to sell anything unless you pay the fee to become a sponsor. I'm not sure that is where you are headed, but the talk of a Harley dealer buying "cool stuff" from you, and your gas additive quizzes suggest you might be peering over the edge of a slippery slope.


 
Slope Stopped, Gotcha!


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## weedeaterman (Jul 1, 2011)

*Gotcha*



edisto said:


> Just a warning weedeater, you cannot use the site to sell anything unless you pay the fee to become a sponsor. I'm not sure that is where you are headed, but the talk of a Harley dealer buying "cool stuff" from you, and your gas additive quizzes suggest you might be peering over the edge of a slippery slope.


 
I did inquire on being a sponsor, no word back!

But I am curious still on what they think is the best and works for Chain saws? That is a serious question I am interested in still!

Henry


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## Simonizer (Jul 1, 2011)

I don't use additives. I can see it being popular with Harleys though since their actual useful duty cycle is about 5%. I consider them agricultural equipment. (I am gonna pay for this lol)


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## weedeaterman (Jul 1, 2011)

*Hey*



Simonizer said:


> I don't use additives. I can see it being popular with Harleys though since their actual useful duty cycle is about 5%. I consider them agricultural equipment. (I am gonna pay for this lol)


 
I own a Harley! That was wrong! American History there!

View attachment 189128


Henry


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## edisto (Jul 1, 2011)

weedeaterman said:


> I own a Harley! That was wrong! American History there!


 
Here too:







As for additives, I was fond of tetra-ethyl lead myself.


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## weedeaterman (Jul 1, 2011)

*Nice*



edisto said:


> Here too:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Nice Deer, love them and grew with a Model A and B.

Henry


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## Simonizer (Jul 1, 2011)

Same 0-60 as a hog, a bit lighter though and doesn't leak oil.


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## Fish (Jul 1, 2011)

So what did the Walbro guy say?


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## weedeaterman (Jul 1, 2011)

*Ok Fish*



Fish said:


> So what did the Walbro guy say?


 
Alright fish hold your fin ok, Dang. The Guys said and I Quote only, Not me talking ok, and I am providing his info as well, he said this:

The difference is that the K20-WAT has several different gaskets and in some cases it can be used in place of the K10-WAT but that is why we show the correct kit on our web site for the specific carburetors

Have a nice holiday



Luis Salas

Program Manager - Aftermarket

Walbro Engine Management

6242-A Garfield Avenue

Cass City, MI 48726

p. 989.872.7322

f. 989.872.1135


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## weedeaterman (Jul 1, 2011)

*Star Tron*

I love Star Tron, it is great and works well. One that I am looking into is called Mechanic in a Bottle!

You can see it on You-Tube!

Henry


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## weedeaterman (Jul 1, 2011)

*Did you know about Stihl*

Did you know that Stihl did a test and Run on Stihl HP 2 cycle oil in a engine and did a two tank break in. Then dumped the gas and ran straight gas in it. It took 4 tanks of straight gas to actual stop the motor. 

Enjoy your independence, also did you know that the Pledge Of Allegiance was written in 1892 and when into congress and was approved in 1942. It was also changed 4 times.

Happy 4th of July everyone. Enjoy your weekend and be safe, do not drink and drive, do not let your best friend do it and hurt themselves or someone else!

More Did you knows coming this summer!

Do not forget to say Pledge Of Allegiance to the Flag this weekend and on the 4th of July 2011, we owe it those who served and gone before us so we can have what we have today.

View attachment 189172


Did you know from Henry!


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## weedeaterman (Jul 1, 2011)

*Sorry if I came across Wrong!*

I would like to say I am sorry if I came across that I wanted to sell and or promote any type of business. Not my intent.

My intent is though to pick the brains of Chain Saw heavies on the product and likes and dislikes of things, share thoughts and share what ever, not the deep heavy type of sharing though. I forgot I was in a different site an not face Book, and or the other areas I talk. Sorry.

So what do people think about a EFCO Chain Saws and or know anything about them? Please share if you do!

View attachment 189177


Henry


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## edisto (Jul 1, 2011)

Simonizer said:


> Same 0-60 as a hog, a bit lighter though and doesn't leak oil.


 
I see you cut the reference to the turning radius. Like all the tractors I've been on, the left and right brakes are independent, so those farmall JDs can turn on a dime (depending on what's behind them).


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## weedeaterman (Jul 2, 2011)

*Crazy Strong*



edisto said:


> I see you cut the reference to the turning radius. Like all the tractors I've been on, the left and right brakes are independent, so those farmall JDs can turn on a dime (depending on what's behind them).


 
Those JD's where also Crazy Strong, My Grand dad used it to remove logs back in the day, I climmb and trimmed them and My dad ropped them and my Grand dad drug them out with that JD like they where nothing. I loved those old tractors. Great machines. You could not kill them. Crazy Strong!

Have a great weekend and enjoy your 4th!

Henry


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## edisto (Jul 2, 2011)

weedeaterman said:


> Those JD's where also Crazy Strong, My Grand dad used it to remove logs back in the day, I climmb and trimmed them and My dad ropped them and my Grand dad drug them out with that JD like they where nothing. I loved those old tractors. Great machines. You could not kill them. Crazy Strong!
> 
> Have a great weekend and enjoy your 4th!
> 
> Henry


 
Our's just got sold at my uncle's farm auction. Hated to see the old girl go, but there was no way for me to get it from Saskatchewan to South Carolina.

It was nowhere near as strong as our Case 830, but it was fun to run.

And it handled like a Harley...:msp_tongue:


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## Elsmootho (Jun 3, 2013)

weedeaterman said:


> I was doing a ton of forums in the Small engines ones and ran across a ton of A-holes so I stopped. I was looking for Pics for my website to upload and found this one. I liked what I read and thought I help the Chain saw guys out since this year I had to fix 12 or more due to various things. So far I am good. Plus I have a few I want to sell and have not had any luck.
> 
> Hopefully you guys can help. I have like 5 Stihls in pieces and a Shindawia 350 and Stihl ready for sale. So who knows what will happen. Then I have a freaking Poulan on the bench and kicking my butt. Carb flooding out, I may have the needle adjusted wrong, I will work on it tomorrow! I hate working on Poulans and new Homelites.
> 
> ...



Hello Henry and folks, Not sure if you still are all following this thread, I also have a "Poulan on the bench that is kicking my butt". The high speed works well for a while but it dies down after a fewminutes and wants to stall when i give it gas. Putting the choke on for a bit and then removing the choke seems to get it going again. I've done everything, carb kit, new Fuel lines, fuel pickup/filter, tank vent, I even took the exhaust apart and cleaned the air filter and changed the plug. Then i came acrossthis thread where you mention something about blowing the High speed nozzle check valve with compressed air and damageing it. How hard is it to replace this check valve? I'm on my fourth teardown and i'm about to give up on the machine completely...

Thanks and best regards... 

Elsmootho Discouraged....


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## weedeaterman (Jun 3, 2013)

*Sorry it is bad carb*



Elsmootho said:


> Hello Henry and folks, Not sure if you still are all following this thread, I also have a "Poulan on the bench that is kicking my butt". The high speed works well for a while but it dies down after a fewminutes and wants to stall when i give it gas. Putting the choke on for a bit and then removing the choke seems to get it going again. I've done everything, carb kit, new Fuel lines, fuel pickup/filter, tank vent, I even took the exhaust apart and cleaned the air filter and changed the plug. Then i came acrossthis thread where you mention something about blowing the High speed nozzle check valve with compressed air and damageing it. How hard is it to replace this check valve? I'm on my fourth teardown and i'm about to give up on the machine completely...
> 
> Thanks and best regards...
> 
> Elsmootho Discouraged....



Hi sir, once the Kevlar disk has been damaged and or blown out the carburetor is now trash. That is factory set and installed. Sorry! You need a new one sir!

Henry, The Weedeaterman, Also a proud sponsor of Aborist site!


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## boda65 (Jun 3, 2013)

Elsmootho said:


> Hello Henry and folks, Not sure if you still are all following this thread, I also have a "Poulan on the bench that is kicking my butt". The high speed works well for a while but it dies down after a fewminutes and wants to stall when i give it gas. Putting the choke on for a bit and then removing the choke seems to get it going again. I've done everything, carb kit, new Fuel lines, fuel pickup/filter, tank vent, I even took the exhaust apart and cleaned the air filter and changed the plug. Then i came acrossthis thread where you mention something about blowing the High speed nozzle check valve with compressed air and damageing it. How hard is it to replace this check valve? I'm on my fourth teardown and i'm about to give up on the machine completely...
> 
> Thanks and best regards...
> 
> Elsmootho Discouraged....



One thing you might double check before you throw out the carb is the metering lever. If set too low it won't let enough fuel in. Just bend it up a little which gives it a little more stroke. It's sensitive, only move it small amounts at a time, maybe 1/64 of an inch.


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## weedeaterman (Jun 3, 2013)

*More info!*



boda65 said:


> One thing you might double check before you throw out the carb is the metering lever. If set too low it won't let enough fuel in. Just bend it up a little which gives it a little more stroke. It's sensitive, only move it small amounts at a time, maybe 1/64 of an inch.



Actually, you a flat edge and lay it across the body and the tip should barely touch. To high will flood out the crab but it sounds like he blew out the Kevlar disk. The sparatic and unable to maintain the High side is a good sign the Carb is bad.

The metering lever is set to a point of lifting around 10PSI and or so. if you do not have a small pump to test this part then use a straight edge across the bod yo make sure the adjustment is correct. So carbs to require the ZT-1 tool and or the Walbro 500 tool.

Henry the Weedeaterman out!


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## boda65 (Jun 3, 2013)

weedeaterman said:


> Actually, you a flat edge and lay it across the body and the tip should barely touch. To high will flood out the crab but it sounds like he blew out the Kevlar disk. So carbs to require the ZT-1 tool and or the Walbro 500 tool.
> 
> Henry the Weedeaterman out!



Well, you certainly don't want your crab to be flooded.
Actually, I wasn't arguing with your assessment of his carb, just offering one more thing to look at before he throws it in the trash and spends a wad of money on a new one.


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## weedeaterman (Jun 3, 2013)

*Me either*



boda65 said:


> Well, you certainly don't want your crab to be flooded.
> Actually, I wasn't arguing with your assessment of his carb, just offering one more thing to look at before he throws it in the trash and spends a wad of money on a new one.



Me either adding a little more info is all!


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## laddo90 (Jun 3, 2013)

k10= half ton

k20= three quarter ton


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## SkippyKtm (Jun 3, 2013)

weedeaterman said:


> Hi sir, *once the Kevlar disk has been damaged and or blown out the carburetor is now trash*. That is factory set and installed. Sorry! You need a new one sir!
> 
> Henry, The Weedeaterman, Also a proud sponsor of Aborist site!



I can't say that I agree with that, (although I do appreciate your posts).

I've replaced the "deeper type" check valves in Walbro carbs and maico490 has done it in Zamas as well. 
*[url]http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/145468.htm*[/URL]
I've ordered some of shallower type check valves from walbro but haven't installed any as of yet.
I can understand why some people wouldn't want to go that deep in a carb, but I still think its worth the trouble. Its just like with anything, once you learn it, it becomes easy.


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## weedeaterman (Jun 3, 2013)

*Nice*



SkippyKtm said:


> I can't say that I agree with that, (although I do appreciate your posts).
> 
> I've replaced the "deeper type" check valves in Walbro carbs and maico490 has done it in Zamas as well.
> *[url]http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/145468.htm*[/URL]
> ...



I learned something new and I appreciate the lesson, hence why i love this site and sponsor it! thank you. Be nice to see a power point and or video from start to finish how to do this! I am very interested, I was nervous about Welch plugs and got past that years ago. never tackled the this part.

I am glad I replied and asked and or commented. thanks for the great information.


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## Elsmootho (Jun 4, 2013)

SkippyKtm said:


> I can't say that I agree with that, (although I do appreciate your posts).
> 
> I've replaced the "deeper type" check valves in Walbro carbs and maico490 has done it in Zamas as well.
> *[url]http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/145468.htm*[/URL]
> ...



I'm not sure i blew the disk out of the check valve.

Tried this link but the pics don't appear, does someone have these pics? 
Is there an easy way to test the check valve if its damaged? Someone said something about blowing air with your mouth but not being able to suck? What does this check valve do exactly, i see that it is in series with the main jet, Does that check ball open and close on each pulse of the engine? Is it like a one way valve that prevents gas from flowing back into the diaphragm reservoir? 

I'm not sure that this is my problem. My metering lever is set .065" below the body as per spec. Again, the engine runs well for a while at full throttle, then it seems to die all of the sudden, i put a bit of choke on it, and then it comes back, i take the choke off and i'm good for another few minutes. 

... I am perplexed and dumfounded.


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## Jeff Lary (Sep 6, 2017)

I stumbled across this old thread does it really end here? if it continues some where I would like to read more of it quite interesting. Jeff


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