# Best top handle saw?



## windthrown (Dec 1, 2006)

OK chainsaw junkies out there in AS land... what make and model do you think is the best top handle saw out there for easy limbing of logs after dropping trees and before bucking, pruning a live tree with (you in tree, saw on tool belt or in hands), shrub and small tree felling, and for whatever cool stuff that you can do with a smaller top handle saw, like chainsaw log art, chainsaw juggling (I saw a guy once on Venice Beach juggle 3 running chainsaws), and making horror movies in Texas with. 

What say all y'all? :jester:


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## Pollock777 (Dec 1, 2006)

*Stihl 020t or the ms200t same saw*

I have used stihl and I was at my stihl dealer and a customer bought in a husky top handle not sure if it was the336 or 338? But I will tell you he let me take it out back and make some cuts it just wasn't for me. My old homelite top handle saw felt better. It wouldn't out cut the husky it just felt better balanced and the stihl for me is better balanced. Just my opinion? Tony


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## Stihl #1 (Dec 1, 2006)

Many pro arborists use the MS 200T, and I have spoken with one who has tried several other models and brands, and he said the 200 was the only one that would survive his 3 crews using it.
The MS 192 is lower priced, less powerful version. STIHL dealers are only supposed to sell these 2 top handle models to professionals, not to homeowners. There is a long handle version of each that can be sold to anyone.


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Dec 1, 2006)

For most of the activities you mentioned, a rear handled saw would work better. They have small rear handled saws that are exactly the same saw, weight, power, motor, but just with a rear handle.
Top handled saws get used by the one hand cutting crowd, usually amateurish climbers. Not a safe work habit for sure.
That said, the Husky 338 is about the best, the 200T is a close second.


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## deezulsmoke (Dec 1, 2006)

MS200T hands down for me. You have to be careful though, alot of people will use this saw one-handed that really shouldn't be.


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## adkranger (Dec 1, 2006)

IMO for climbing, trimming, pruning, t/d s the mark that all others are measured to is the Stihl 200t. A place they've held since the 020av days. POWER to weight, balance, ease of operation and durability set it apart from the pack. The big downside is price, a minor downside is the boxy rearend which can be a bi$*%( to pull up through the tree. The little Husky is a good saw as well (338xp), better rearend shape, good balance but lacks the power that 200 has and I've not been impressed with it's "commercial" durability, might be fine for others. Echo makes a decent affordable climber/top handle, have used several and would again. I seem to remember in the past using a small Shindaiwa(sp?) that was a real nice climbing saw, not popular round here, don't remember model.

While the 200 excells in the tree, I personally never use it on the ground. Once my feet hit the ground I pick something else to use. Limbing, bucking, felling are rear handle work IMO. Oh, definitely need something bigger, louder rear handled for chainsaw masacreing.


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Dec 1, 2006)

Out of the box, the 338 is stronger than the 200T.
As for problems with the 200T, how about the little laynyard ring, the carburator located where your hand should be holding the saw, exaust that falls off or cracks, and that they are nearly impossible to work on?


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## adkranger (Dec 1, 2006)

Yeah, I have to agree with Mike on the location of the single control lever on the 200, real easy inadvertantly kill saw when cutting close in. But as far as working on... never really had to other than routine maintenance. The earlier 020s could be a little finicky at times but at that time there was little to no other saw offering the same performance. The 200 feels more powerful to me, could be just me though:hmm3grin2orange: . It is really an amazing little machine, just pulls right through wood you'd think should bog it down. On many T/Ds I've found myself still cutting with it down into the trunk wood larger than the bar and I should have changed out to the 028 but it's still cutting so well......:rockn: As already said because of it's design and power, not a homeowner saw.

The little Husky is a great little machine as well, as I said before, has a better shape for use in the tree. I tip my hand to the Stihl for durability though(IMO).


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## Ryan Willock (Dec 1, 2006)

I can't stand the balance of the MS200, to me the 334/338 balance just right.


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## deezulsmoke (Dec 1, 2006)

Has anyone had any experience with the little echo top handled saw ?? I came close to buying one just because of the price, it was quite a bit cheaper than the stihl, but I didn't know how it would hold up, also the echo was quite a bit heavier than the stihl.


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## Just Mow (Dec 1, 2006)

deezulsmoke said:


> Has anyone had any experience with the little echo top handled saw ?? I came close to buying one just because of the price, it was quite a bit cheaper than the stihl, but I didn't know how it would hold up, also the echo was quite a bit heavier than the stihl.


Yeah, the oiler leaks oil down your leg at idle. The controls are a sorry set up.
It is hard to get the side cover on and off and it does not have the power of the 200T. I will only run the 200T.


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## computeruser (Dec 1, 2006)

Stihl #1 said:


> STIHL dealers are only supposed to sell these 2 top handle models to professionals, not to homeowners. There is a long handle version of each that can be sold to anyone.



Since when? Did you make this up all on your own?


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## matty f (Dec 1, 2006)

Mike Maas said:


> For most of the activities you mentioned, a rear handled saw would work better. They have small rear handled saws that are exactly the same saw, weight, power, motor, but just with a rear handle.
> Top handled saws get used by the one hand cutting crowd, usually amateurish climbers. Not a safe work habit for sure.
> That said, the Husky 338 is about the best, the 200T is a close second.



Agree with the first bit you said mike ,one handed saws should never be used on the ground...in the uk if health and safety see you using one, you will be fined!! and you cant buy one either without proof of proper training either.......338 the best???a bit of contraversy!!!ive never met any one who actually used it and liked it yet!


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## stckciv (Dec 1, 2006)

I like the 338, seems to have just as much power if not more than the 200 and better balanced. Better design in my opinion as well.


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## Fumbler (Dec 1, 2006)

deezulsmoke said:


> Has anyone had any experience with the little echo top handled saw ?? I came close to buying one just because of the price, it was quite a bit cheaper than the stihl, but I didn't know how it would hold up, also the echo was quite a bit heavier than the stihl.


I have an Echo CS-330T.
I got it like new as a refurbish from Home Depot for $175.
Power is not bad but it's no 200T or 338XP (It's rated at 1.6 hp). Up to about 6-8" wood it will keep up with my Husqvarna 350.
I actually like the controls exceot I wish the handle was angled more like the Husqvarna.
It is heavy. It weighs as much as the 200T but doesn't have the power.
I have not used mine enough to comment on the durability.

As far as limbing on the ground, I think any top handled saw is a poor choice. You give up control and ergonomics for maneuverability when you buy a top handled saw. On the ground you don't need the same compactness.
I think the original poster should look for two saws; a top handled saw and something like a Husqvarna 346XP/353/350 or Dolmar 5100S. Or...if you want a lighter package on the ground go with something like the 336, MS 200 (not T), or Echo CS-346


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## GASoline71 (Dec 1, 2006)

How about this one???   

An oldie but a goodie... 

Gary


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## Justsaws (Dec 1, 2006)

GASoline71 said:


> How about this one???
> 
> An oldie but a goodie...
> 
> Gary



That one is my favorite. I have a bunch. Set up right and they are little screamers. Use one for a tank full and it is time to set it up again. 

They are also good because of the manditory break time cause by numb hands.


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## fishhuntcutwood (Dec 1, 2006)

I'm not sure about a top handle for all the things you mentioned, but the 200T is my call.


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## computeruser (Dec 1, 2006)

Why not run something interesting, like a Ford:







I second the earlier remark about a top-handle saw not being the best choice for limbing and groundwork. It will work, and I do use mine in that role sometimes, but only in small doses or else my wrists get tired. Top handles are nice for above-ground use and one-handing (I know, I know) stuff that won't quite feed into the chipper correctly and needs a bit of trimming. Otherwise, a nice rear-handle makes for faster and safer limbing and shrub/sappling removal.


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## Rydaddy (Dec 1, 2006)

*MS200t*

Not a pro, but the first time I used my MS200t I was almost as impressed as the first time I buried my 28" bar with the MS460. I can certainly see the safety issue with them for guys like me who aren't pros but that is an awesome saw. I have a used 192t that I am trying to convince myself to keep and sell the MS200t but I am having a hard time letting it leave my chainsaw room.


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## SRT-Tech (Dec 1, 2006)

i have been trying out BOTH the Stihl 200T and the Husky 338XPT.

the Stihl is a very nice saw, lots of power/torque, well built, but that damn bulge of plastic near the rear of the handle digs in badly into my wrist, causing a LOT of pain, to the point that i had to come down from the tree because my hand would go numb. I also did'nt like the sawlanyard tie in point, seemed really cheap and looks breakable if it ever got twisted or dropped.

(bulge of plastic is the orange piece near the back of the handle, it is about 4" wide and 2" long....when your pull up the Stihl that piece digs into the bottom right of the wrist/palm EXTREMELY painful after a few minutes......WHAT was Stihl thinking....????)






I really like the Husky 338XPT, it felt good in the hands, the handle was very comfortable (i cut all day long with it), and the power was on par (IMHO) with the 200T. The saw lanyard tie in point is bombproof too (rear of handle on the Hsky 338XPT as opposed to a cheap metal D ring on the Stihl 200T). the Husky seemd to be more "streamlined" when pulling it up thru the tree, the Stihl caught on everything (poor handle design, clunky shape)





i'll be buying the 338XPT in the new year, i really like it. Big thanks to the arborist that allowed me try out both his tree saws.


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## Cut4fun (Dec 1, 2006)

Well it may not be the best, but for a homeowner limb cutting once in awhile it is very cost effective back in the day it was made. Poulan 2000 33cc at 7.8LBS, paid $99 new back in 1994. Just picked up a poulan 1800 30cc for a back up trimmer.
I looked at the little echo TH and they were light too. Just never ran one and proably would have bought one if I didnt find another module for the 2000 last spring.
I would like to hear more reports on that new Dolmar 3410 TH, if I got the model number wrong please correct it, it seems to be alot more cost effective for the homeowner. What about any pros using this 3410?


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## GASoline71 (Dec 1, 2006)

Justsaws said:


> They are also good because of the manditory break time cause by numb hands.



That's a fact!!! 

It is also the loudest saw I own! Even louder than my muffler modded MS361!

Gary


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 1, 2006)

GASoline71 said:


> That's a fact!!!
> 
> It is also the loudest saw I own! Even louder than my muffler modded MS361!
> 
> Gary



Hey.... Your 361 is QUIET!  Try my DP 066, or my stock 088!!

Or anything RBTREE runs  (I see Rodger lurking)


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## rbtree (Dec 1, 2006)

GASoline71 said:


> How about this one???
> 
> An oldie but a goodie...
> 
> Gary



I bought one of those from a Cali outfit that had lots of those old saws, and a few other items, like a 100cc Partner powered stumpgrinder, which I also bought.

He presented the PM-6a as a 6 lb saw. In fact I weighed it against my 335's and it was about the same or a tad heavier. As far as power went it was at least 20% slower. I sent it back to him, and he only credited my with a hundred bucks worth of Lubegard mix oil and a stumpgrinder blade. Outmoded saw, no anti vib, loud, gutless.....etc

Well, this the first thread I've yet seen where the Husky climb saw is getting universally good reviews. Great. I like those of mine that run well, which is all my current ones. Though my only 338 is underwhelming, even after being modded by Dan Henry. My old 335 which I got from Rich Hoffman in pieces is still the fastest of all my climb saws, beats the muffler modded 335 Cali, and all I did to it was to add a 9/16th muffler port. I'm sure if my 200T was equally muffler ported, it would be faster. I also prefer the husky design, but the 200T's are very trouble free for sure.

I also really like my ehp ported 192T, for pruning. Stock it would be too slow, though.


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## windthrown (Dec 1, 2006)

*Texas style saws...*



adkranger said:


> <snipped>
> Oh, definitely need something bigger, louder rear handled for chainsaw masacreing.



Hmmmm... well, what about the limitations of using a rear handle saw in the shower scene? Kind of hard to get around with a rear handle in that cramped space, cutting and letting the blood fly onto the shower curtain while being back-lighted for effect... :hmm3grin2orange:


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## GASoline71 (Dec 1, 2006)

Lakeside53 said:


> Hey.... Your 361 is QUIET!  Try my DP 066, or my stock 088!!
> 
> Or anything RBTREE runs  (I see Rodger lurking)



You're right Andy! Even my other ugly old dino-Mac is louder than the 361! 

Gary


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## Ryan Willock (Dec 1, 2006)

Is anyone running the 338cali? I know what the specs are on it but how does it compare to the regular 338 performance wise?


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## stckciv (Dec 1, 2006)

I dont think the Cali. model has as much power as the regular 338.


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## Just Mow (Dec 1, 2006)

SRT-Tech said:


> i have been trying out BOTH the Stihl 200T and the Husky 338XPT.
> 
> the Stihl is a very nice saw, lots of power/torque, well built, but that damn bulge of plastic near the rear of the handle digs in badly into my wrist, causing a LOT of pain, to the point that i had to come down from the tree because my hand would go numb. I also did'nt like the sawlanyard tie in point, seemed really cheap and looks breakable if it ever got twisted or dropped.
> 
> ...


I'll sacrifice the cheap metal D ring as you call it for the dual post chain brake that it has instead of the simple single post Poulan design on the 338. Plus the power is greater on the 200 IMO.


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## rahtreelimbs (Dec 1, 2006)

I for one would like to see the 334/338 come together and be a strong reliable saw........maybe it fianlly has. I really like the 200T (just bought two of 'em)...........but good competition can't hurt!!!


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## SRT-Tech (Dec 1, 2006)

the Stihl has a double post chain brake handle? the one i borrowed had single post.


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## Just Mow (Dec 1, 2006)

SRT-Tech said:


> the Stihl has a double post chain brake handle? the one i borrowed had single post.


Yes it is a double post on the two that I own.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 1, 2006)

SRT-Tech said:


> the Stihl has a double post chain brake handle? the one i borrowed had single post.




Only if one got busted off!


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## rahtreelimbs (Dec 1, 2006)

SRT-Tech said:


> the Stihl has a double post chain brake handle? the one i borrowed had single post.




You sure you didn't have the earlier 020AV, all metal saw???


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## Trigger-Time (Dec 1, 2006)

I bought a 335xpt in 1997, a MS200T a short time ago.
If I could put the 200t power plant in the 335xpt case
it would be *PERFECT* IMO. But thats like asking to have
a MS361 weight the same as a 026, That would be *(Bee's Knee's*)


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## jomoco (Dec 1, 2006)

*Stihl needs to build a better pro trim saw*

It is pretty well accepted that the ms200t is top dog, but it does have its problems that have been gone over here many times.

So rather than belly ache about it, I'll make a few suggestions in the hope that Stihl, Husky or somebody will open their ears and realise that there's a pro user market that is willing and ready to pay good money for the right trim saw.

Boxy saws no. Tear drop saws yes. Put the exhaust out the front like most saws, not out the side, no more burned legs or pants, make the muffler bullet proof rugged and accessable.

Don't try and incorporate every function on one mechanism and place the kill switch somewhere it can't be inadvertently tripped while cutting.

Lanyard attachment point at the rearmost end and bullet proof rugged.

Power as good or better than the current ms200.

Fueling caps and surfaces that can be wiped clean with a rag.

And if you really want to get noticed, make a sliding throttle station with an ergonomic rubber grip so it can be either up top like current trim saws or can be unlocked and slid to the rear of the saw and lock into position there. This would not be hard to do, and if done right would appeal to alot of pro climbers. Patent it, it's yours, just do it right. I loved the old super 2's that had 2 triggers, one up top, and one at the rear, I could switch between the two effortlessly, and I loved it.

The market is ready for it, and I would be willing to pay a premium price for such a saw.

Any body got any used but still intact ms200t mufflers for sale? I need 4 or 5 of them!

Dream on and on until it happens!


jomoco


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## Trigger-Time (Dec 1, 2006)

jomoco said:


> Fueling caps and surfaces that can be wiped clean with a rag.
> 
> 
> jomoco



Yes, the dirt that gets on the oil cap is a big PITA on the 200T

Dose any one else have trouble with a big air bubble in the oil
tank when filling it up?


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## jomoco (Dec 2, 2006)

*It's a good thing*



Trigger-Time said:


> Yes, the dirt that gets on the oil cap is a big PITA on the 200T
> 
> Dose any one else have trouble with a big air bubble in the oil
> tank when filling it up?




I actually like that air bubble, when you put a little too much oil in, just tilt sideways a bit and presto! Problem solved.

jomoco


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## matty f (Dec 2, 2006)

Atleast the oil and fuel are not side by side and under the side handle!


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## rahtreelimbs (Dec 2, 2006)

I have never seen a muffler come loose on an 020T or the newer 200T.

How long does it take to take the Torx-27 that Stihl gives you and occasionally check the muffler bolts?!?!?!:bang:


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## Dadatwins (Dec 2, 2006)

For a climbing saw I was a die hard 200t fan but since I bought a Dolmar 3410 I am liking it more and more, better handle design and feels just as powerful as the stock 200t. I was never a husky fan, I had a 335 that was a great runner, but the oiler drove me nuts. The ms200t have been a very durable and reliable saw for me but for now I am very pleased with the dolmar performance to date and if you get the chance to try one, do it.


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## PES+ (Dec 2, 2006)

jomoco said:


> It is pretty well accepted that the ms200t is top dog, but it does have its problems that have been gone over here many times.
> 
> So rather than belly ache about it, I'll make a few suggestions in the hope that Stihl, Husky or somebody will open their ears and realise that there's a pro user market that is willing and ready to pay good money for the right trim saw.
> 
> ...




I am in process in a packaged climbing/trimmer saw right now.

It incorporates all of your wishes and a couple more. 

Stay Tuned For Updates

The hardest part is the dual trigger I tried the sliding type and it is very complcated to make bullet proof.

Also am working on the pole saw bar jumping problem 3/8 LP safety is NOT the answer on a pole saw.


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## gumneck (Dec 2, 2006)

Yawn:

Both are 38 cc's. Since the ms200T is only 35.2 cc's, does that mean mine are more powerful? I'm just asking. These saws work great up a tree for me. Lightweight, non-mechanic friendly, start easy, idles well, and inexpensive. The only downfall of the red one is the lack of countervibe feature. I have the same model in Poulan skin that is countervibe, just needs a little wrenchin. 

I would say these would be a cheap back up to those running the higher end models if you ever needed a backup with more power(if more cc's = more power) .


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## PES+ (Dec 2, 2006)

*The problems with the Huskies*



gumneck said:


> Yawn:
> 
> Both are 38 cc's. Since the ms200T is only 35.2 cc's, does that mean mine are more powerful? I'm just asking. These saws work great up a tree for me. Lightweight, non-mechanic friendly, start easy, idles well, and inexpensive. The only downfall of the red one is the lack of countervibe feature. I have the same model in Poulan skin that is countervibe, just needs a little wrenchin.
> 
> I would say these would be a cheap back up to those running the higher end models if you ever needed a backup with more power(if more cc's = more power) .



The problem with the Huskies I see is the vibration they set up in the carbs. I have seen some carbs fail internally on these saws and can only suspect the buzz causing the failures. I have yet to see a high hour 335 or 338 respond properly to carb tuning.

The 200T I have had little time with but they too seem to wear quickly

I am playing with an Echo 3400 right now and am amazed how gutless a reasonable climbing packaged saw can be 

Displacement isn't everything and is not really an answer when topping


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Dec 2, 2006)

PEST said:


> I am playing with an Echo 3400 right now and am amazed how gutless a reasonable climbing packaged saw can be
> 
> Displacement isn't everything and is not really an answer when topping


If you open up the muffler it'll about double the power, but like you say it's not really the answer.


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## PES+ (Dec 2, 2006)

Mike Maas said:


> If you open up the muffler it'll about double the power, but like you say it's not really the answer.



I like reasonable noise levels due to urban users. 

The funniest part on this saw is the reed valve it's not a reed it's a danged flapper valve UGH


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 2, 2006)

rahtreelimbs said:


> I have never seen a muffler come loose on an 020T or the newer 200T.
> 
> How long does it take to take the Torx-27 that Stihl gives you and occasionally check the muffler bolts?!?!?!:bang:




Two tips on 20T/ 200T mufflers - 

1) You must use 242 loctite (not 271 or 272) when replacing the screws or if they are loose. Degrease the screws and cylinder threads with carb cleaner.

2) Under the heads of the screws are special cup washers (get them from your stihl dealer..). If these don't get replaced, and he screws torqued to the correct amount, the muffler will eventually come loose, and likely crack. The cup washers allow the muffler to remain tight as the aluminum muffler contracts and expands differentially to the steel screws.


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## jomoco (Dec 2, 2006)

*I appreciate the good advice but*



Lakeside53 said:


> Two tips on 20T/ 200T mufflers -
> 
> 1) You must use 242 loctite (not 271 or 272) when replacing the screws or if they are loose. Degrease the screws and cylinder threads with carb cleaner.
> 
> 2) Under the heads of the screws are special cup washers (get them from your stihl dealer..). If these don't get replaced, and he screws torqued to the correct amount, the muffler will eventually come loose, and likely crack. The cup washers allow the muffler to remain tight as the aluminum muffler contracts and expands differentially to the steel screws.



I have done all of the above myself as well as having it done by my Stihl dealer at considerable cost with very short term success.

Apparently there is no Loctite made that can withstand the temperature of direct outlet exhaust exposure or even proximity to it period.

I feel that you are 100% correct when you say that the problem is differential heating between the two types of metal.

I readily admit that I probably run my ms200's as hard or harder than most climbers, this is because I do TD's exclusively on a daily basis.

Every ms200t that I've bought (5) has suffered this problem without exception, every one of them 12345. Eventually the mufflers fracture into pieces.

I will pay 50 bucks for good intact used ms200t mufflers to anyone that has them available for sale.

Thanks

jomoco


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## PES+ (Dec 2, 2006)

*If you want*

send me the 200T and I will safety wire the muffler bolts so they stay put

Got a T-shirt coming

"At 40 feet up do you know where your nuts are?"


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## Cut4fun (Dec 2, 2006)

PEST said:


> Got a T-shirt coming
> 
> "At 40 feet up do you know where your nuts are?"


I fell from 18 feet once and landed on my hip + back area and broke a L2 off, I now will leave my nuts on the ground or wear a chest harness, never again to go through that pain again,i hope.:biggrinbounce2: . neat shirt saying pest.


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## SRT-Tech (Dec 2, 2006)

rahtreelimbs said:


> You sure you didn't have the earlier 020AV, all metal saw???



nope it was the newer 200T, went back last night and looked at, one post was broken off and had been filed down clean.


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## Trigger-Time (Dec 2, 2006)

MS200T can even be used as a milling saw. (see pic)


I have never seen a 335,334 or 338 used as a milling saw


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Dec 2, 2006)

Ha! I always wondered how they made toothpicks!


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## Trigger-Time (Dec 2, 2006)

Mike Maas said:


> Ha! I always wondered how they made toothpicks!



Thats GOOD! 

But I was making match sticks.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 2, 2006)

jomoco said:


> I have done all of the above myself as well as having it done by my Stihl dealer at considerable cost with very short term success.
> 
> Apparently there is no Loctite made that can withstand the temperature of direct outlet exhaust exposure or even proximity to it period.
> 
> ...





I've seen your post about this before, but I dont share your experiences. I see one or two broken mufflers a year over a lot of 20T/200t's.. and when I question the owner(s) - it just didn't break - was loose for sometime beforehand. Lot's of these saws have made it to end of life (new piston/rings) and the muffler still stays together. Hard to say where you problems originate. Do you keep the cylinders and flywheels clean of gum/dirt? I see some saws so packed it hard to believe they were even cooling.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 2, 2006)

Trigger-Time said:


> MS200T can even be used as a milling saw. (see pic)
> 
> 
> I have never seen a 335,334 or 338 used as a milling saw




Must be a bi?tch cutting that concrete though:jester:


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## jomoco (Dec 2, 2006)

*I probably maintain my saws better than most*



Lakeside53 said:


> I've seen your post about this before, but I dont share your experiences. I see one or two broken mufflers a year over a lot of 20T/200t's.. and when I question the owner(s) - it just didn't break - was loose for sometime beforehand. Lot's of these saws have made it to end of life (new piston/rings) and the muffler still stays together. Hard to say where you problems originate. Do you keep the cylinders and flywheels clean of gum/dirt? I see some saws so packed it hard to believe they were even cooling.



Considering that I blow them out with compressed air between each fueling.

I just run them real hard everyday in bigwood where most others opt for a bigger saw much sooner.

I have located a source for good used mufflers, and have had an in depth conversation with a very good saw mechanic about the problem. I will be trying two new approaches to overcome this problem, neither uses loctite but rather custom aircraft grade predrilled bolts that will allow me to wire the bolts in place, as done in the aircraft industry. I will post results once thoroughly tested.

jomoco


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 2, 2006)

jomoco said:


> Considering that I blow them out with compressed air between each fueling.
> 
> I just run them real hard everyday in bigwood where most others opt for a bigger saw much sooner.
> 
> ...




Yes, I like the those bolts.. Might have probem geting them to fit down in the muffler. I'd still use the cupped washers that Stihl specifies for the expansion issues.


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## Tom Hoffman (Aug 18, 2018)

Stihl #1 said:


> STIHL dealers are only supposed to sell these 2 top handle models to professionals, not to homeowners. There is a long handle version of each that can be sold to anyone.




If you aren’t a pro do they send the chainsaw police to arrest the dealer if they sell you one? I had a run in with the chainsaw police when they caught me running a Bow on my 041. They tazed me in the bean bag and stole my saw! Those guys are no joke!


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## flyinfinn (Aug 20, 2018)

Tom Hoffman said:


> If you aren’t a pro do they send the chainsaw police to arrest the dealer if they sell you one? I had a run in with the chainsaw police when they caught me running a Bow on my 041. They tazed me in the bean bag and stole my saw! Those guys are no joke!



Really?? You to resurrect a TWELVE YEAR old thread to make a sarcastic comment?


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