# Timber jack or Cant Hook



## mimilkman1 (Apr 14, 2008)

I was looking through the latest Northern Tool catalog, and I see they sell both cant hooks and timber jacks. The timber jack is $ 29.95 and the cant hook is $64.00. The rigid stand comes off just by pulling a pin and can double as a cant hook. The handle on the timber jack is 3 ft long and the cant hook has a 4 foot handle. I was just wondering does a true cant hook has any advantages over the timber jack? If not then it's a no brainer I'll just get the timber jack.

Kyle


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## mimilkman1 (Apr 14, 2008)

I guess I should have waited to read the chainsaw forum before I posted this. Wooops!!!:monkey:


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## Turner-N-Burner (Apr 14, 2008)

just a word of advice - the Northern tool all steel timberjack that they sell is a piece of junk. It doesn't bite easily, and isn't very sturdy. I bent mine the first time I tried to use it. 

I just picked up a logrite - world of difference - it's a lot more expensive, but it'll actually do the job.


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## johncinco (Apr 14, 2008)

I "Cant" say enough good about my logrite tools. 2 cant hooks, 1 fetcher stick thingy to pull boards with. I ran over one with my truck, not a bit of damge.


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## YCSTEVE (Apr 14, 2008)

*Timber Jack*

I have a Steel Timber Jack I paid $40.00 from a Farm Store. It's handy to lift logs off the ground so you don't cut in the dirt. Yesterday I used mine to turn a tree trunk to free a pinched saw and *I bent it*. I can't say I was real happy about that but I guess I was asking to much out of it.


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## wistattman (Apr 14, 2008)

*Northern Tool Timberjack*

I purchased the wood handled timber jack from Northern Tool last fall. Of course it is made in China but it seems pretty sturdy and would recommend it.


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## Patrick62 (Apr 14, 2008)

*Do it right*

http://peaveymfg.com/

Look this over. Everything I have is excellent.
The handles are way strong.

-Pat


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## goatchin (Apr 14, 2008)

IMO the cant hook is more verstile. i say this b/c with the timber jack you can only support a "small" log-limited in capabilites. i find it easier to just cut half to 3/4 the way through the piece all the way down the log, then roll it w/ the cant hook to finish it off. you can also use the cant hook to move logs around your wood pile-get it closer to the stackin area and whatnot

My first cant hook/log stand was the one you are talkin about...POS. was able to lift a 7in maple log....worked okay for that one, then went to the next log-maybe 10" max(i believe less not sure). broke the damn stand mount right off the handle-i wasnt horseing on it either. decided i would just use the cant hook part to roll the log on over after cuttin...wouldnt grip at all so i just rolled it w/ my foot. Earlier this winter i was cuttin some stuff that by my wood stacks and went to move a 30" wide by 5' long chunk of ash...bent the handle a good 3in on the end.

At the farm show i bought the Peavey brand cant hook. came home and tried it out right away...worked beautifully on small and pieces larger than that ash that bent the metal handled one. this one has a 4 ft wooden handle-just right for me.

good luck


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## peterrum (Apr 14, 2008)

*Plans for a homemade one.*

Here are the plans for a homemade one, haven't tried it myself but if any of you do please post pics. Seems simple enough.


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## Zodiac45 (Apr 14, 2008)

Just get a good quality Timberjack and you have both. Remove the stand usually a pin or a couple of bolts and it's a Cant dog. Peavey are good, Swisher (the wood handled one) are very hefty and Dixie are ok too.


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## EastwoodGang4 (Apr 14, 2008)

Turner-N-Burner said:


> just a word of advice - the Northern tool all steel timberjack that they sell is a piece of junk. It doesn't bite easily, and isn't very sturdy. I bent mine the first time I tried to use it.
> 
> I just picked up a logrite - world of difference - it's a lot more expensive, but it'll actually do the job.



He didn't stress the "J" word enough J.U.N.K. JUNK--- I bent mine too and had to grind the hook so it would even bite the log! Spend your money on the good tools!!


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## jrclen (Apr 19, 2008)

I bought a cant hook at a farm auction for $4. It was older than me when I bought it 20 years ago and it will be here at least 20 years after I'm gone. I don't run over my tools, but by keeping it in the shed, it will last a long time. The one in northern tools for the cheaper price looks like a toy for city people.


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## gink595 (Apr 19, 2008)

I've used a timber jack that sells at bailey's, I liked it. it is a well built unit.


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## mimilkman1 (Apr 20, 2008)

Thanks for all of the replies! At the local stock yards they have a flea market every Monday, and I have a few guys looking for me when I don't have cattle to haul in. I would rather get a good looking older one that was built back when things were built sturdy. 

Kyle


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## stihl sawing (Apr 20, 2008)

goatchin said:


> IMO the cant hook is more verstile. i say this b/c with the timber jack you can only support a "small" log-limited in capabilites. i find it easier to just cut half to 3/4 the way through the piece all the way down the log, then roll it w/ the cant hook to finish it off. you can also use the cant hook to move logs around your wood pile-get it closer to the stackin area and whatnot


That's what i do, Also made a timberjack out of an old cant hook, It works ok but just on smaller logs. The cant hook will beat a timberjack for me anyday.


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## Tazman1602 (Apr 21, 2008)

mimilkman1 said:


> I was looking through the latest Northern Tool catalog, and I see they sell both cant hooks and timber jacks. The timber jack is $ 29.95 and the cant hook is $64.00. The rigid stand comes off just by pulling a pin and can double as a cant hook. The handle on the timber jack is 3 ft long and the cant hook has a 4 foot handle. I was just wondering does a true cant hook has any advantages over the timber jack? If not then it's a no brainer I'll just get the timber jack.
> 
> Kyle



Agreed with the rest. Timberjack is JUNK. Handle fell off mine first day I tried to use it, you need a partner with a maul to hammer the hook in or it lets go, and just doesn't work real good in general. 

A "cant hook" is made for "cants" -- logs that have been squared off at the mill so I didn't see much use for that either. Bought a logrite log lifter -- more expensive but much more useful.


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## stihl sawing (Apr 21, 2008)

Tazman1602 said:


> A "cant hook" is made for "cants" -- logs that have been squared off at the mill so I didn't see much use for that either. Bought a logrite log lifter -- more expensive but much more useful.


I use my cant hook to roll big rounds around, They work just as good on round logs as square ones.


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## Zodiac45 (Apr 21, 2008)

stihl sawing said:


> I use my cant hook to roll big rounds around, They work just as good on round logs as square ones.



+1 Me too. It's actually better then my peavey (pointed end) too tell the truth.


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## Butch(OH) (Apr 21, 2008)

A few years ago I bought a tool similar to the Timberjack, used it some and it's OK I guess but a cant hook will do the same thing and is much more versatile. To raise a log with the cant hook I simply cut a small round and roll the big log onto it with the cant hook. Two jobs. less junk to take to the woods, go with a cant hook IMO.


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## Tazman1602 (Apr 21, 2008)

stihl sawing said:


> I use my cant hook to roll big rounds around, They work just as good on round logs as square ones.



Yeah but I've got better tools...............a 23 year old and a 25 year old that still live at home. No problem, they pay their share of the expenses and are really, really usefull for the rolling of big stuff [GRIN}


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## stihl sawing (Apr 21, 2008)

Tazman1602 said:


> Yeah but I've got better tools...............a 23 year old and a 25 year old that still live at home. No problem, they pay their share of the expenses and are really, really usefull for the rolling of big stuff [GRIN}


 You really do have something better than a cant hook.LOL


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## Tazman1602 (Apr 22, 2008)

stihl sawing said:


> You really do have something better than a cant hook.LOL



Man Stihl I TRIED the timberjack -- it *should* work good but just doesn't for me. If I took the steel tip that's *supposed* to go into the wood and lengthened it about 1.5" it would be better I think. It still won't lift very heavy logs though. Easier just to stretch the back muscles, cut halfway through and then roll the log.

.....now if I could make a timberjack about three times the size they are and figure out how to hook it up to the PTO on the tractor..............[grin]


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