# Elm table



## jimdad07 (Feb 5, 2017)

Thought you guys might like this, this is a small end table I'm working on right now. I have three more to build.





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## jimdad07 (Feb 8, 2017)

Here's how I did the legs:



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## Ax-man (Feb 8, 2017)

Nice, I envy you. Good job. Seems like you can sell those pretty quick for a decent buck. Would a table like that sell better than a slab type bench for sitting???? I have made kind of similar stuff in the past and I have a hard time selling them.


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## jimdad07 (Feb 8, 2017)

Ax-man said:


> Nice, I envy you. Good job. Seems like you can sell those pretty quick for a decent buck. Would a table like that sell better than a slab type bench for sitting???? I have made kind of similar stuff in the past and I have a hard time selling them.


They seem to sell better, especially if you can make pairs and sell them as end tables. I have another one just like that one to make and sell as a pair. It also helps if you live in an area where wealthy tourists have summer homes. I live in the 1000 Islands in NY and the summer people will buy just about anything that's locally made. If I were to take them 20 miles away I wouldn't get half of what I can get here for them. 

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## buzz sawyer (Feb 9, 2017)

Nice job! I've done some of these but never thought to make the key more artistic. How long did that round dry? Have you ever tried to control where the split occurs by intentionally starting it in a certain spot while the wood is still green? I'm just thinking there could be some very attractive grain that you want to remain intact.


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## jimdad07 (Feb 9, 2017)

buzz sawyer said:


> Nice job! I've done some of these but never thought to make the key more artistic. How long did that round dry? Have you ever tried to control where the split occurs by intentionally starting it in a certain spot while the wood is still green? I'm just thinking there could be some very attractive grain that you want to remain intact.


Haven't tried that but I will sometime. That dried for just over two years. I figured it will crack more, but I'm inlaying a piece of steel into the bottom of it to to keep stable.

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## SeMoTony (Feb 9, 2017)

buzz sawyer said:


> Nice job! I've done some of these but never thought to make the key more artistic. How long did that round dry? Have you ever tried to control where the split occurs by intentionally starting it in a certain spot while the wood is still green? I'm just thinking there could be some very attractive grain that you want to remain intact.


Poly-Ethylene-glycol applied in a 25 to 40%solution with water daily over period of time minimized splitting. I've gotten mine from Rockler w/free shipping by joining and over a break point $ wize. Penetrates 2" max.


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## jimdad07 (Feb 9, 2017)

SeMoTony said:


> Poly-Ethylene-glycol applied in a 25 to 40%solution with water daily over period of time minimized splitting. I've gotten mine from Rockler w/free shipping by joining and over a break point $ wize. Penetrates 2" max.


That's a cool idea, any staining of the wood?

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## SeMoTony (Feb 10, 2017)

jimdad07 said:


> That's a cool idea, any staining of the wood?
> 
> Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


PEG appears similar to the wax used to seal home canned goods. 130 * range of water to melt into solution to wash over surface which will take it in and replace sap to fill the space in drying wood there by minimizing shrink/split. Does not work on all species . White Oak has sealed fibres, which causes it to not leak, so is used for wood casks. PEG no help there. More info in this site/search PEG (-;


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## SeMoTony (Feb 10, 2017)

jimdad07 said:


> That's a cool idea, any staining of the wood?
> 
> Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


Neutral' the clear or colored see thru finish would do more since this material goes into the grain of the wood, up to 2", rather than sit on the surface (-;


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