# 2100cd milling problems



## pwoller (Feb 15, 2011)

So after milling a couple hundred board feet my 2100cd started getting really easy to bog down. It was making a scratching noise in the clutch area. Like I said it started bogging easy and i had to use a very soft touch to keep cutting. What could be the problem? I can post pics if that helps but let me know what to take pics of. The compression is still great, better then any saw i own but if any preassure was put on it then it would bog down and make the scratching noise.


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## 820wards (Feb 15, 2011)

pwoller said:


> So after milling a couple hundred board feet my 2100cd started getting really easy to bog down. It was making a scratching noise in the clutch area. Like I said it started bogging easy and i had to use a very soft touch to keep cutting. What could be the problem? I can post pics if that helps but let me know what to take pics of. The compression is still great, better then any saw i own but if any preassure was put on it then it would bog down and make the scratching noise.



Pictures are always a help. 

What size bar are you using and do you have a nose oilier on your mill? If your bar is getting hot and not getting enough oil it will create more friction causing the the saw to work harder and slow the motor down. Also be sure to not tensioned the chain too tight.

My .50 cents worth.
jerry-


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## BobL (Feb 15, 2011)

This is out of left field but when was the last time you cleaned and greased your clutch bearing?


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## Karl Robbers (Feb 15, 2011)

BobL said:


> This is out of left field but when was the last time you cleaned and greased your clutch bearing?


 
Good maintenance point BobL.
I do however doubt that this will be the problem unless grease has made it's way onto the friction surfaces of drum and shoe thus causing slippage, (of course if something else is caused slippage a dry bearing could cause the noise but this should present at idle to some degree also).

Does the engine seem to still run fast and strong or is it dying away?


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## betterbuilt (Feb 15, 2011)

Having had just about everything happen to my clutch on my 066. I don't think twice about tearing it down and taking a look. Most of my problems have been the opposite of yours where the clutch sticks and the chain won't stop running. I'd take it to your dealer and see what they say if your not comfortable taking it apart yourself.


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## mtngun (Feb 15, 2011)

pwoller said:


> Like I said it started bogging easy and i had to use a very soft touch to keep cutting.


First off, when a saw acts like something is wrong, you need to call it a day and tear into the saw. 

The bogging problems sounds like the engine is weak. I would give the entire engine and fuel system a good going over before running it again.


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## pwoller (Feb 15, 2011)

I havent greased the bearing since I've owned it which is about 6 months with very little use. 

The engine is running fine but the sprocket area make a strange noise and the chain stops spinning if too much pressure is put on the saw. There arent too many service techs around here that I trust any more then myself. 

I'll tear it down tonight and get some pictures up.


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## mtngun (Feb 15, 2011)

pwoller said:


> I'll tear it down tonight and get some pictures up.


Atta boy. 

Always better to have pics of what actually happened than to debate hypothetical situations. :msp_crying:


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## BobL (Feb 15, 2011)

My next guess is a broken clutch spring.


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## pwoller (Feb 15, 2011)

Here is a picture of the outside of the clutch.







The cylinder and piston look good and there is still a ton of compression. 
I'm trying to get the clutch assembly off now. I have a rope holding the piston but cant get the nut to budge. Any suggestions?


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## mtngun (Feb 15, 2011)

pwoller said:


> Here is a picture of the outside of the clutch.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Just be aware that it's a left hand thread -- clockwise to loosen the nut. It's not supposed to be easy to break loose.

I have no reason to believe that anything is wrong with your clutch. You said the engine would bog easily in the cut and required a soft touch -- clutch would not cause that, engine problems would.

Yes, there was the scatchy noise mystery, but I'd be more worried about the lack of power.

Guess there could be something binding or dragging -- oil pump, maybe. Might as well pull the clutch and check it out.


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## pwoller (Feb 15, 2011)

THis thing isnt coming off. I tryed the wrench, a chisel and its not budging. I'm turning right/clockwise with a piston stop in it. What else can I do?


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## PhilB (Feb 15, 2011)

Try an impact wrench. Just short bursts. Be carefull not to twist the shaft in two.


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## pwoller (Feb 15, 2011)

I dont have one but maybe I can pick one up tomorrow. Would a 150lb compressor run one?


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## PhilB (Feb 15, 2011)

Impacts usually need 90 psig. 150 is good.


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## mtngun (Feb 15, 2011)

pwoller said:


> Would a 150lb compressor run one?


Yep.

If it's been a while since the clutch has been off, you might find some other maintenance issues, like a worn rim or a rusty clutch bearing. Darned outboard clutches don't encourage good maintenance habits.


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## PhilB (Feb 15, 2011)

If you're going to get an impact tomorrow, spray a little wd40 on the nut/shaft and let it soak all night.


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## pwoller (Feb 15, 2011)

I'll put some wd on her and put her bed for the night before I break something.


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## pwoller (Feb 15, 2011)

SO its a little late for tuning this saw in the neighborhood but what rpm should I set the high at? I ussually tune by ear but have a tach now and would like to really dial the saw in.


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## PhilB (Feb 15, 2011)

See this link: http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm
Hope i did this link insertion right. First time.


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## huskyhank (Feb 15, 2011)

First, clean the air filter. The old mesh filters will clog and not let enough air into the carb. and then the saw gets real boggy. For milling you should look at and clean the filter every other tank of fuel.

To tune, set the high until it blubbers then open it just a tiny bit. If it blubbers out of the cut but clears out under load in the cut it is perfect. A tach might seem to be more accurate because it shows you numbers, but by the time you factor in the fuel, oil, altitude and temperature differences that are possible I think setting a saw by ear is a surer way to have it running correctly.


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## Timberframed (Feb 15, 2011)

Like an old Harley. I put the timing light away and lost that clear plug many years ago. Ya tune'em by ear.


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## pwoller (Feb 16, 2011)

Thanks guys. Ill tune it by ear.


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## randyg (Feb 16, 2011)

*Gold star for Husky Hank*



huskyhank said:


> First, clean the air filter. The old mesh filters will clog and not let enough air into the carb. and then the saw gets real boggy. For milling you should look at and clean the filter every other tank of fuel..


 
By the looks of the fine milling dust on the clutch, I wonder what air filter looks like? Air filter plugged, saw runs rich/weak, as rpms drop clutch slips causing 'scratchy' sound (steel on steel), probably smoked a little too? Look for brite shiney steel surface on inside of drum, perhaps even a little galled looking.

820wards mentioned dry chain as another poss. for loss of power worth looking at if filter NOT the issue. Probably would have got some smoke off the bar then too, and a loose chain?

Bearing would ONLY make noise at idle or very low rpm's when clutch is NOT engaged, and then would sound more like a squeak or squeal than a scratch.


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## mtngun (Feb 16, 2011)

For those of us with impaired hearing, a tach is the only way to go. 

Not sure about the rpm spec for that saw, but if you ask over on the beg-for-manuals sticky thread, it should be in the manual.

According to this thread, some 2100's may have had a limited carb. If so, that could complicate tuning. http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=122186


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## DRB (Feb 16, 2011)

+1 on the impact for the clutch

Don't for get about the fuel filter. I had a similar problem a while back and it was the fuel filter. 

Read This
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=155944


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## betterbuilt (Feb 16, 2011)

I use an impact to take them off. You don't need the rope in the spark plug hole. Just put the spark plug back in. You might be asking for trouble with the rope in there. The first time I tried to use a impact it slipped of the nut. I ground the end off my socket down a little so it fit on the clutch nut better. I use a torque wrench to put it back on.


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## mtngun (Feb 16, 2011)

DRB said:


> Don't for get about the fuel filter. I had a similar problem a while back and it was the fuel filter.


+1

I had a similar problem a while back and it was a torn fuel line & clogged carb inlet screen. Would start and rev, cut for a bit, but then start bogging in the cut. 

Could be lots of things, keep an open mind, and play it safe.


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## pwoller (Feb 16, 2011)

Well I found some broken parts. I'm wondering if this happened when I took the clutch off or if it was part of the problem to begin?



























So whats it going to take to get this thing running right again? Funny thing happened when I was blowing it off I hit a gyser of oil, dont know if that means anything but I thought I'd mention it.


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## pwoller (Feb 17, 2011)

I'm going to need some help putting this saw back together.


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## PhilB (Feb 17, 2011)

To determine if the broken parts were broken in disassembly or old breaks, clean the parts and look for clean metal or (corroded/discolored) metal. If you look close you should be able to tell. Clean metal is a recent break. A magnifying glass would be helpfull. There may be a mix of clean and discolored. If it's both you just finished off the break when you disassembled it.


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## betterbuilt (Feb 17, 2011)

That's a pretty good job you got there. It looks fixable. Can you post a clear picture of the crank. The threads may be damaged. 

here's some of the parts you need.

http://cgi.ebay.com/HUSQVARNA-CHAIN...415582674?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item51966575d2

http://cgi.ebay.com/HUSQVARNA-CHAIN...321375341?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item53e4d3dc6d

I'd go ahead and get some spares if you can get the shipping combined.


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## srcarr52 (Feb 17, 2011)

The damage to the oil drive gear wouldn't happen when pulling it apart. Your oil pump drive locked up and stripped the gear and then broke the drive on the rim driver.

Since it looks like your oil pump wasn't working for a while I bet your lack of power was coming from a overheated and dragging chain, plus the drag of all those torn up parts.

To be safe I would still pull the carb and clean, put in a new fuel line and filter why you have it on the bench. Also pull the muffler and look at the piston to make sure you didn't hurt anything pushing the saw so hard.

All of those parts are easy to find, cylinders are not. Happy milling!


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## mtngun (Feb 17, 2011)

srcarr52 said:


> Since it looks like your oil pump wasn't working for a while I bet your lack of power was coming from a overheated and dragging chain, plus the drag of all those torn up parts.


+1

Good detective work, pwoller. Looks like you found the source of the funny noise. :msp_scared:

Where is the seal for the clutch-side crank bearing ? Did you remove it before taking the pics, or is it missing in action ?

Repping you for the excellent pics and troubleshooting .:rockn:


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## pwoller (Feb 17, 2011)

I think it fell off when I was blowing the oiler pump off. It would of been in between the pump and the bearings right?


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## pwoller (Feb 17, 2011)

PhilB said:


> To determine if the broken parts were broken in disassembly or old breaks, clean the parts and look for clean metal or (corroded/discolored) metal. If you look close you should be able to tell. Clean metal is a recent break. A magnifying glass would be helpfull. There may be a mix of clean and discolored. If it's both you just finished off the break when you disassembled it.



Good idea. Looks like old breaks.


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## srcarr52 (Feb 17, 2011)

mtngun said:


> +1
> Where is the seal for the clutch-side crank bearing ? Did you remove it before taking the pics, or is it missing in action ?


 
The seal for the crank is in the oil pump housing. I would recommend getting a new one since I'm sure it took a little beating with all those parts flying around, might as well replace the flywheel side at the same time (I'm sure they are about shot).

Crankcase seal - both sides

You'll also need
Oil Pump New
or
Oil Pump Used

Oil pump drive
Oil Gear Washer
Or 
Oil Pump Gear and Washer Used

Rim and Drum - no sense getting used for the same price

You may need one of these
Clutch bearing

Or this may have all the parts you need used
Ebay 1100CD


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## pwoller (Feb 17, 2011)

srcarr52 said:


> The seal for the crank is in the oil pump housing. I would recommend getting a new one since I'm sure it took a little beating with all those parts flying around, might as well replace the flywheel side at the same time (I'm sure they are about shot).
> 
> Crankcase seal - both sides
> 
> ...


 
This is looking like its going to be an expensive fix. I guess the 390xp will get some milling action until this thing gets fixed.


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## srcarr52 (Feb 17, 2011)

You're looking somewhere in the $50-80 + shipping. Small price to pay to keep an old monster alive.


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## huskyhank (Feb 18, 2011)

Let me know via PM if you need someone to fix that for you. I know a great shop in southern Indiana.

Before it broke, how did that 2100 compare to your 390?


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## pwoller (Feb 18, 2011)

huskyhank said:


> Let me know via PM if you need someone to fix that for you. I know a great shop in southern Indiana.
> 
> Before it broke, how did that 2100 compare to your 390?



I bet your thinking of the same shop that I just got off the phone with. They are going to send me the parts and then I get the fun of putting it back together.

Its hard to compare the 2 saws the 390xp is like a sports car and the 2100 is more like a truck. If I had to choose one then it would be the 390xp.


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## pwoller (Feb 20, 2011)

Dont judge my form from this one picture, but the 390 milled just fine with a 36 inch bar. I dont think I'd go much bigger though.


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## roalco (Feb 20, 2011)

mtngun said:


> +1
> 
> Good detective work, pwoller. Looks like you found the source of the funny noise. :msp_scared:
> 
> ...



Looks to me like the oil seal is still in the oil pump casing, where it lives. You'll want to get a new o-ring for the back of the casing as well as the other parts. Make sure you clean out the clutch bearing grease hole bore (in the crankshaft) while you're at it, you don't want to force any dirt through there when you're greasing the new bearing with the clutch in situ (such a slick arrangement, those clever Husky engineers!)...


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## pwoller (Feb 28, 2011)

THanks to all your help and D and D getting me the parts quickly I will be spending the evening putting this saw back together. I'll keep you all updated on the progress.


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## pwoller (Feb 28, 2011)

I got the parts but I think I'm missing part 501 27 74-01, anyone know what its called? They sent a oiler with brass gear, drum an bearing, the clutch, pto crankseal, and the o ring for the oiler.


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## albert (Feb 28, 2011)

Most 2100's have a governor in the carb. Sometimes they are bypassed. Set the rpm in a large cut for best power then richen it up about 1/4 turn for milling.


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## pwoller (Feb 28, 2011)

The bearing is inside the clutch housing in the picture. Do I have the order right and all the parts needed?


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## greg176 (Apr 27, 2011)

I was trying to figure out the answer to this same question when I remembered this thread. After several hours digging and then pulling apart some other saws here is what I found. What you are missing is the V-Ring PN 501 27 74-01 and a plastic shield PN 501 59 82-01. What I did is buy a new clutch from Bailey's for $15.99 plus an arm and leg for shipping.It comes with the necessary parts. The PN is Oregon 28094X ,the picture on Bailey's is not of actual part. See Husqvarna 288 394 395 2100 Sprocket 3/8" New 28094X RIM | eBay for actual part .It also comes with installation instructions.I'll post photos when it comes.


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## pwoller (Apr 27, 2011)

Thanks. I called D and D and they sent me the rest of the parts and gave me tips on getting it back together without screwing it up and causing an air leak. The saw is back together oiling and everything is working great. But.....I bought a 3120 so I think I will retire the 2100 for now.


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