# Anyone Using The Stihl 2 in 1 Sharpener ?



## gsrsol84mm (Sep 10, 2013)

Anyone using the Stihl 2 in 1 Sharpener ?

Likes or Dislikes ? 

Thanks

[video=youtube;ucIpjJ-BNWQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucIpjJ-BNWQ[/video]


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## nixon (Sep 10, 2013)

Ive got the earlier pferd version of that for oregon / husky chains . Works well . 
But i did just pick up the Stihl ff1 guides for .325 and.375 chains the hold a perfect 30* and only cost about 12 bucks . Gotta use the appropriate Stihl file holder with them ,and the dont do the rakers like the husky roller guide . They even come with a dvd .... Woot !


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## gsrsol84mm (Sep 10, 2013)

I also picked up the FF1 and the correct guide and file. They did not have the depth gauge for the rakers and ordered them for me. 

This 2 in 1 system looks like it would work well and does everything at the same time.


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## w8ye (Sep 10, 2013)

I had seen one a little like that at the Husqvarna store but did not realize that Stihl had this super double sided model?


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## decableguy2000 (Sep 10, 2013)

I have the older version of the Husqvarna one. I really like the results. I have been thinking of getting the new one as it looks a bit easier. Pferd makes them for Husqvarna. 

Jeremy


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## Rockjock (Sep 10, 2013)

gsrsol84mm said:


> Anyone using the Stihl 2 in 1 Sharpener ?
> 
> Likes or Dislikes ?
> 
> ...


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## tjcoogan (Sep 11, 2013)

I used one out in the field all the time but have now removed the raker file. I found after a few sharpens on the same 36RM chain it had a tendancy to bite in prety hard. I run a light file after every tank so touching up the rakers is not always required. I do however love the shape and feel of the 2 in 1 holder and I seem to hold the correct angle better when filing.


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## Stihlman441 (Sep 11, 2013)

Yep i have a .325 and 3/8 use them daily.
Note you can not use any round file in them,Stihl have made the round file slightly differant so you have to buy theres.


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## Red Amor (Sep 11, 2013)

Speaking of chains 
what size chain would you blokes recommend an 064 running a 25 to 30 odd inch bar in Aussie hard woods 
thankyou


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## Homelite410 (Sep 11, 2013)

I have seen the pferd guides around but never got to use one. I'd like to try one someday if I ever get close to one.


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## MCW (Sep 11, 2013)

I have the .325" and 3/8" versions. I don't mind the .325" setup but I am a big fan of 7/32" on all 3/8" chain and am not a big fan of 13/64" which is what the Stihl setup comes with. Personally I don't use them anymore and have gone back to a standard file guide. I do keep them in my toolbox though in case I ever have a chain that I've forgotten to set the rakers on.



Red Amor said:


> Speaking of chains
> what size chain would you blokes recommend an 064 running a 25 to 30 odd inch bar in Aussie hard woods
> thankyou



Definitely 3/8" mate on an 064 and skip chain on the 30" bar. Go semi chisel too. I've cut a lot off wood down in Tassie and semi chisel is the go.


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## crystallattice (Sep 11, 2013)

Hi Guys,

this was just what I was looking, guys with some experience!

I bought the pferd chainsharp cs-x version a while ago. Used it once or twice and packed the saw away. Back then I felt something was not right and now that I used it again I made sure I'm not doing something stupid: my depth gauge/raker file files on the back stroke and the cutter is filed on the forward stroke. Try as you may but you can not rotate the file as the lid won't close.

I tried either side and both are the same. The files in contact with the chain are in oposite directions. I think this is a manufacturing fault and phoned pferd but the tech guy was in a meeting. Can someone please check their 2in1 or cs-x and let me know?

Ps. The raker file arrow points in the right direction. I think the cut is just reversed.

Thanks in advance!


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## Rockjock (Sep 11, 2013)

crystallattice said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> this was just what I was looking, guys with some experience!
> 
> ...



That is odd it should be on the fwd stroke. have a look at mine. There is a angle cut into the top of the raker file. line yours up as mine is. IF it is a manufacturing problem you can grind off the edge and correct it. 



View attachment 314007


View attachment 314008


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## gsrsol84mm (Sep 11, 2013)

Thanks to everyone for their replies. I picked up the 3/8 picco 2 in 1 today and hope to have the standard 2 in 1 Reg 3/8 in a day or two.

On the FF1 system what depth gauge tool do you use on 3/8 picco ( Maybe the .025 ?)
and what depth gauge tool on Stihl 3/8 RS , Semi Chisel and RSF chain ?
What would be the best file for use on the depth tool for the rakers ?


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## crystallattice (Sep 12, 2013)

Thanks RockJock,

Thats exactly what I thought. My file looks the same on the top end, but unlike yours, the other end is also shaped, probably to make assembly easier. The slope of my cut is also the same (slope opposite angle to the corner cutt off) except that in the position yours is lying it would seem that the teeth are pointing down whereas mine are pointing up. If I run my fingernail down the file it files.

I can grind the file, but why should I? I'll just take it back to them and they must exchange it!

Sorry for hijacking your thread gsrsol84mm, but it is somewhat relevant.....


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## crystallattice (Sep 13, 2013)

All sorted!

Got the whole unit exchaned with a new one. According to them, I'm not the first to receive a faulty unit, so if you own one, check and make sure it works properly. Now the depth file looks like yours RockJock. This really works well now and the depth gauge is getting the attention it needs. For those interested, there is only one manufacturer of this tool... Pferd won an inovation award for the invention.

Regards


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## Rockjock (Sep 13, 2013)

crystallattice said:


> All sorted!
> 
> Got the whole unit exchaned with a new one. According to them, I'm not the first to receive a faulty unit, so if you own one, check and make sure it works properly. Now the depth file looks like yours RockJock. This really works well now and the depth gauge is getting the attention it needs. For those interested, there is only one manufacturer of this tool... Pferd won an inovation award for the invention.
> 
> Regards



I was positive that Pferd made it for Stihl. Good that you got it all sorted out! I did a few chains the other day and think it is brilliant. Mine is well used and still does a great job!


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## gsrsol84mm (Sep 15, 2013)

Yes, It Looks Like The Exact Sharpener

[video=youtube;JND69lVVjUY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JND69lVVjUY[/video]


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## MCW (Sep 16, 2013)

gsrsol84mm said:


> Yes, It Looks Like The Exact Sharpener
> 
> [video=youtube;JND69lVVjUY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JND69lVVjUY[/video]



It is the same sharpener just in different colours and with Stihl written on it. I'm not sure of the pricing in the US but you probably pay $5-10 extra over Pferd for the pleasure of having one in orange and cream 
In Australia the Stihl versions cost around USD$50-55.


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## Stihlman441 (Sep 16, 2013)

The only problem is they dont work on skip chain.


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## gsrsol84mm (Sep 16, 2013)

Stihlman441 said:


> The only problem is they dont work on skip chain.



That's a good point, didn't think of that at all. Sounds like a good system for non skip and go with the FF1 for the skip chain.


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## Rockjock (Sep 16, 2013)

MCW said:


> It is the same sharpener just in different colours and with Stihl written on it. I'm not sure of the pricing in the US but you probably pay $5-10 extra over Pferd for the pleasure of having one in orange and cream
> In Australia the Stihl versions cost around USD$50-55.



It is about 50.00 Canadian. 34,99 €


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## Stihl kickin (Dec 16, 2017)

An older thread but I only stumbled onto these sharpeners a few weeks ago, must live under a rock!
Anyway I have two now, 3/8 and 3/8 piccu, I like them a lot, not foolproof but so nice to use.


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## Rockjock (Dec 17, 2017)

Stihl kickin said:


> An older thread but I only stumbled onto these sharpeners a few weeks ago, must live under a rock!
> Anyway I have two now, 3/8 and 3/8 piccu, I like them a lot, not foolproof but so nice to use.



I got mine a year before they came out here in Canada and showed them to my boss and he was sold. Once we could get them they began to fly off the shelves. On Saturdays at work I will show people how to tension chains, sharpen chains and general maintenance on the saws they have bought. Monday morning I order more of the sharpeners as they sold out.


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## Okie (Dec 17, 2017)

*The 2 in 1 Stihl sharpner seems over-priced too me! (but again I'm a Stihl man and everything about Stihl seems overpriced until you put it to work so as to get er dun)*

Thought I could probably hand file faster with the Husky file guide but,
AND I bought the Husqvarna roller guide kit sharpner awhile back ($18) for use on some Stihl chains and no go. not even close to correct fit of the file when in the roller guide. Should have taken the saw with me to the store and matched the Husky file guide to the chain.

I do not own any Husky saws or chains so no big surprise. 

I'll just keep on hand filing and keep a good spare chain handy and some worn out chains for fence rows and close to the ground cutting.

I have a Carlton chain on a Stihl 20 inch bar, .050 gauge, 72DL that is marked A1 and the Carlton site indicates to use a 7/32 file.
The drags are at .025-.028 and this *chain only makes dust* when trying to cut green hardwood and I doubt if it will even cut hot butter). (and I thought I was good at hand filing,* but this one has got me down*)

The cutter teeth are at about 3/4 new. I can see that the chain teeth has contacted a rock when looking at the top of the cutter teeth, but the teeth look sharp after hand filing????? Any ideas about what I'm overlooking? I think this is the only Carlton chain I have for use.

I replaced the chain with a Stihl chain and the saw cuts good.


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## trains (Dec 17, 2017)

I bought the FF1 on a whim thinking it might be like the husky roller guide, but was very disappointed in it.
Wont hold an accurate angle for the file and guide as there is so much slop and play in how it sits on the chain, and guides/ holds the file and plate, total waste of money.

Use the old Granberg I brought back to life with a new top bushing and chain stop piece, and use that to bring the chain back to accurate angles and then just use the basic stihl file holder to hand file in the field.
Usually file well, but towards the end of the day when the arms are tired, I loose accuracy hand filing, thus granberg out to true it back up.
Love the husky roller guide, so easy, quick, and instant good results, use it on my oregan / husky chains, wished there was one that worked on the stihl chains.
The stihl 2 in 1 is around 80 here, so waiting till I find one in a yard sale.

T


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## trains (Dec 17, 2017)

Okie said:


> *The 2 in 1 Stihl sharpner seems over-priced too me! (but again I'm a Stihl man and everything about Stihl seems overpriced until you put it to work so as to get er dun)*
> 
> Thought I could probably hand file fater with the Husky file guide but,
> AND I bought the Husqvarna roller guide kit sharpner awhile back ($18) for use on some Stihl chains and no go. not even close to correct fit of the file when in the roller guide. Should have taken the saw with me to the store and matched the Husky file guide to the chain.
> ...



Check the top edge of the cutter where the top and side meet, have often helped friends who have the same issue, looks sharp, but there is still damage on that edge and the chain wont cut, or starts to cut round corners as the teeth are all uneven sharpness around the chain.

My sharpening improved when I started to use my glasses to see how the cutting tooth really looked 
And reading all the sharpening threads here and learning what did what, and how it all worked. Great reading and Great help.

T


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## Okie (Dec 17, 2017)

trains said:


> Check the top edge of the cutter where the top and side meet, have often helped friends who have the same issue, looks sharp, but there is still damage on that edge and the chain wont cut, or starts to cut round corners as the teeth are all uneven sharpness around the chain.
> 
> My sharpening improved when I started to use my glasses to see how the cutting tooth really looked
> And reading all the sharpening threads here and learning what did what, and how it all worked. Great reading and Great help.
> ...



Yes, the top edge of the cutters appears to be slightly curved downward at the leading edge from hitting a rock or nail on all the teeth. Appeared maybe I had hand sharpened the chain, stored the saw then no cut when I went for next use age.
I'll look at the cutter teeth close with a magnafying glass. Looks like I might have to sacrifice about little more than 1/16 inch of each cutter to get a sharp clean top edge. I have a Granberg sharpener that clamps onto the bar that I rarely use, think I'll dig it out and make all the cutters exactly the same instead of hand filing. The chain just makes dust instead of chips, does not cut sideways or circles, probably because all the cutter have the same top of the cutter damage.
First time I've seen a almost new chain that I could not make cut good. (just when I thought I was good at hand sharping)Thankful that I was not doing the sharpening on this one for someone else and charging them a fee.


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## trains (Dec 17, 2017)

Sometimes you need to remove quite a bit of tooth to get back past the damage, have a close look, that should show you whats happening there.
Hurts your brain removing so much material from a new chain after hitting a rock, star dropper, insert any non cuttable object here 

Then double check your rakers, and you should be good to go.
T


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## Okie (Dec 18, 2017)

trains said:


> Sometimes you need to remove quite a bit of tooth to get back past the damage, have a close look, that should show you whats happening there.
> *Hurts your brain removing so much material from a new chain after hitting a rock*, star dropper, insert any non cuttable object here
> 
> Then double check your rakers, and you should be good to go.
> T



You were correct. Close exam revealed that the top of ALL 72 of the Carlton chains cutter teeth was actually hit so hard they were curled slightly down which resulted in the hand file being held down too low in the tooth by the curl when hand filing and the very top of the cutters not getting a sharp edge.
I got my old rarely used grandberg dug out and set up on the bar and had to remove lots of material on each cutter to get them restored to useable and rakers did not need any removed yet. The chain now gets a good bite and cuts real good.
Took some time and patience dressing up all 72 of the teeth.* (but another lesson learned)* Suspect chain had contacted a rock or ??? in a tree stump.
A 2 in 1 Stihl guide might have corrected such if it is type that will hold the file at the proper height when sharpening, but I've seen some of the file guides that rest on top of rakers and holds the file too high for proper sharpening IF THE RAKERS height ARE NOT filed down* first*. (file guide is being held too high in the tooth due to rakers too high for worn cutter teeth and the file is actually dulling the chain.)


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## pioneerguy600 (Dec 19, 2017)

My wood cutting buddy uses the Stihl two in one exclusively to keep his chains sharp and cutting properly, they really work for him as he is not a really proficient with free hand sharpening. I will see if he will drop by and post his findings, good or bad with this tool. I just keep on free hand filing, too old and stubborn to give up something that has taken me more than half my life to learn how to do well.


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## Okie (Dec 19, 2017)

pioneerguy600 said:


> My wood cutting buddy uses the Stihl two in one exclusively to keep his chains sharp and cutting properly, they really work for him as he is not a really proficient with free hand sharpening. I will see if he will drop by and post his findings, good or bad with this tool.* I just keep on free hand filing, too old and stubborn to give up* something that has taken me more than half my life to learn how to do well.



Same here about just keep on hand filing.: Due to* FREE hand filing* without any file guides this is first time I've used or needed my old clamp on Granberg in several years. 
If I were in the woods every day and needed to sharpen my chains quite often I might consider the $80 Stihl 2 in 1 after reading several reviews.


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## pioneerguy600 (Dec 19, 2017)

If I am in the shop or any place with a vice I will gladly clamp the bar, chain and saw in it but otherwise I can and will file a chain anywhere. I prefer to find a solid reasonably flat surface to rest the saw on and a shim around 1.5" to place under the nose of the bar, that keeps the chain relatively stable.


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## mgwebb (Dec 22, 2017)

Does the Stihl 2-in-1 sharpener work right on Husky chains? I don't know, but it is possible that the rakers are different enough to make it less valuable. Of course the file sizes and angles should be the same regardless of what guide is used, right?
BTW, I've used this guide when sharpening my Stihl MS391. Wow! What a difference! Better than my previous guided sharpening, better than the grinder, and better than the cutting when new.


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## Stihl kickin (Dec 23, 2017)

I was pretty surprised how well they work, I've always used the Stihl metal file guide and while that works well this 2 in 1 is a step up with a few features that just make the job a little easier, neither are idiot proof though, as for the husky chain I don't know about all of them but it works on 3/8 LP semi chisel ok as that's what's on my 280TS at present and the 2 in 1 touched it up nicely, cuts well for such a little saw.


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## mgwebb (Dec 23, 2017)

Stihl kickin said:


> I was pretty surprised how well they work, I've always used the Stihl metal file guide and while that works well this 2 in 1 is a step up with a few features that just make the job a little easier, neither are idiot proof though, as for the husky chain I don't know about all of them but it works on 3/8 LP semi chisel ok as that's what's on my 280TS at present and the 2 in 1 touched it up nicely, cuts well for such a little saw.


I haven't yet had an opportunity to try it on Husky saws, but I have three of them as well as two Stihls.


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 23, 2017)

The guide doesn't care what saw/chain you use it on. As long as you are using the right guide for the right chain. 3/8, 3/8 picco or low pro or .325.

I use them for touch ups in the field. Primarily because it keeps the rakers filed down in relation to the height of the cutters. After 5 or so sharpenings with the 2 n 1, the angles get reset on the grinder. I used to free hand in the field, and still can, but I keeping the rakers consistent WHILE touching up the teeth is what keeps me using it.


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## Okie (Dec 23, 2017)

This one is not mentioned in the instruction book or owner guide manual.

AND on a chain that needs sharpened and has about 1/2 of the cutter tooth length consumed if the *rakers height are not filed down first before* using the *TYPE OF file guide like the Oregon 25894 *the guide is holding the file up too high on the tooth when filing and the chain won't cut properly. (and the more you file the chain with the rakers too high with these type file guides the duller the chain will get)

But a Stihl 2 in 1 files down the rakers at same time as the cutter is being sharpened per their advertisement.


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## J.W Younger (Dec 23, 2017)

I kinda like to see what kinda mess I'm making of the job as I make it.
That tool looks like it gonna make a flat raker but I suppose it's no big deal.
On 2nd thought maybe one of those would make me a better semi chisel filer.


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 23, 2017)

Ive noticed no issues with "flat" rakers for firewood cutting.


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## mgwebb (Dec 23, 2017)

At the worst, you could quickly go through with a raker file and round the leading edge a little. That would do away with any worries about flat rakers. I doubt it would matter unless you were cutting large hardwoods.


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## Bigfoot907 (Dec 23, 2017)

Can’t say I know This guy but his video convinced me to order a sharpener.


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## J.W Younger (Dec 23, 2017)

Bigfoot907 said:


> Can’t say I know This guy but his video convinced me to order a sharpener.



He's using that tool with round files to file a square cutter and stuff.


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## Bigfoot907 (Dec 23, 2017)

I suppose that’s makes him a bigger idiot than me.


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## Bigfoot907 (Dec 23, 2017)

J.W Younger said:


> He's using that tool with round files to file a square cutter and stuff.


For a round file on a square chisel it sure is cutting fine still?


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## J.W Younger (Dec 23, 2017)

LOL, he doesn't know whats going on with the angle.
Stihl round chisel is on a 30 deg angle, which is what that tool is for.
He has a square ground skip chain there in the vid.


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## Stihl kickin (Dec 23, 2017)

Well I learnt a bit from you guy's comments after the video lol, his rakers would be low as well if the forward guide was resting on the chain when he was filing.


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## pa firewood cutter (Dec 23, 2017)

gsrsol84mm said:


> Anyone using the Stihl 2 in 1 Sharpener ?
> 
> Likes or Dislikes ?
> 
> ...



I have the version that's not made by sthil, they work well when sharpening a chain that has only been sharpened with it, it teaches you proper cutting angle and how to hold a level plane, for what they cost they are a good investment, I don't use it anymore because I sharpened other people's chains all at different tooth sizes, but they do a good job.


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## JTM (Dec 23, 2017)

I have both Stihl and Pfred in .325 and 3/8 respectively. Neither of them get the gullet if that’s something to you. I’ve been learning to sharpen chain and found that no two files cut the same, especially Oregon, and I don’t file the same when switching sides. I’ll use the 2 in 1 to touch up in the woods but on the bench the chain comes off the bar, is put in a vice, and I free hand with a single file. No cutters rocking over and changing the angle in relation to the file. I like to make sure that the entire top plate and side plate has the same edge. I also use a digital angle finder to set the rakers which works great since not all of my cutters are the same length. When using the 2 in 1 I brush the dust out of the file with a paint brush after a couple of cutters. When free handing I just wrap the file on the vice. You need to make sure you turn the files in the 2 in 1 every now and then.


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## Stihl kickin (Dec 23, 2017)

Not looking for an argument just clarification, when you say they don't touch the gullet what do you mean exactly as as best I can see (with RM chain) is the top plate and side edges seem to look touched up, new to all the terminology, not saws so much.


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## JTM (Dec 24, 2017)

The lower portion of the side plate. Since the 2/1 sharpener maintains a set depth the lower portion doesn’t get filed. At some point after several sharpenings with the 2/1 you may want to talk a round file to this lower portion so the hook on the side plate has a nice even radius. Some folks don’t worry about it. Some folks say it clears the chips better. You can do a search on “gullet” here and read till your hearts desire, or cross eyed.


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## JTM (Dec 24, 2017)

http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_gullet.htm


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## Stihl kickin (Dec 24, 2017)

Thanks, will do.


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## Okie (Dec 24, 2017)

Bigfoot907 said:


> For a round file on a square chisel it sure is cutting fine still?



but he is cutting soft pine. I've seen chains that would cut real good in pine, but not do very good in hardwood.

He might get a surprise if he tried a cut into a dead hardwood or even a green hardwood.


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## J.W Younger (Dec 24, 2017)

Okie said:


> but he is cutting soft pine. I've seen chains that would cut real good in pine, but not do very good in hardwood.
> 
> He might get a surprise if he tried a cut into a dead hardwood or even a green hardwood.


Yeah I don't imagine the side plate was very sharp with him round filing it at the 15 deg top plate factory angle.


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## Stihl kickin (Dec 25, 2017)

JTM said:


> The lower portion of the side plate. Since the 2/1 sharpener maintains a set depth the lower portion doesn’t get filed. At some point after several sharpenings with the 2/1 you may want to talk a round file to this lower portion so the hook on the side plate has a nice even radius. Some folks don’t worry about it. Some folks say it clears the chips better. You can do a search on “gullet” here and read till your hearts desire, or cross eyed.


Thanks again for the tip, did as you suggested, I get it now, while this has not been a real issue to me in the past as I've always used 3/8 RM chain I will now be touching the gullet up as a part of my sharpening regime.


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## Stihl kickin (Dec 26, 2017)

Chucked a worn RM chain on the 029 and cleaned out the gullets to strap level on a few cutters to get a visual comparison to untouched ones, the difference is rather obvious, doing that cemented the info I had read about gullets on here, great site, glad I came across it.
Cheers.


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