# My log splitter build



## 93green12v (Nov 4, 2015)

I want to start off by saying it's all your fault. All you guys on here building some very nice works of art. So I decided I was bored and need a new project. Found a project splitter on CL that had the major stuff that just wasn't put together well. Picture is t great but that's what I started with.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 4, 2015)

More pics


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 4, 2015)

More pics. I'm at a point on my tank and need some ideas. I was trying to split the tank in half with a baffle to make the oil travel as far as possible but I don't think I want the return on the side of the tank closest to the engine where the suction line will go.


----------



## GM_Grimmy (Nov 4, 2015)

93green12v said:


> More pics. I'm at a point on my tank and need some ideas. I was trying to split the tank in half with a baffle to make to oil travel as far as possible but I don't think I want the return on the side of the tank closest to the engine where the suction line will go.


Put 2 baffles in, not just 1.


----------



## GM_Grimmy (Nov 4, 2015)

93green12v said:


> More pics


How are you going to hold your ram down on to your beam? Most people use bolts and spacers, but that's right were you welded. Maybe I just don't see it.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 4, 2015)

Going to use some 3/4" plate and attach on the underside of the I beam and drill thru the flat stock that over hangs and attach with bolts. Saw it done on here and can't remember the person that made one this way. I haven't gotten that far yet anyway.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 4, 2015)

GM_Grimmy said:


> Put 2 baffles in, not just 1.


Should I run the baffles parallel with the tank or perpendicular? I'm guessing perpendicular. Thoughts on running return line thru the top or into the side?


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 4, 2015)

How long should the baffles be? The tank is 36"L x 16"T x 12"W.


----------



## triptester (Nov 4, 2015)

Your pump appears to be 22gpm or larger which will give fast cycle times with the 3 1/2" bore cylinder. But the 4-way wedge design might be more than that cylinder will be able to handle.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 4, 2015)

The nice part is the wedge is off a Timberwolf TW-6 that my friend owns. So we will see if it has enough grunt and if it handles the 4 way I'll grab the 6 way and see what happens. I'm not out anything if it doesn't. I see most of the builds everyone has a wing in the back of the wedge. Is this a preference or proven to be a better design with smaller cylinder?

When I bought it the guy said it was a 22 gpm pump and also said the engine was an 18hp Wisconsin but further research on the engine found it to be a 14 hp TFD Wisconsin. So I'm hoping he was at least right with the pump.

Anyone who is a Wisconsin fan want to confirm my findings?


----------



## buzz sawyer (Nov 4, 2015)

93green12v said:


> Going to use some 3/4" plate and attach on the underside of the I beam and drill thru the flat stock that over hangs and attach with bolts. Saw it done on here and can't remember the person that made one this way. I haven't gotten that far yet anyway.


Looks like you're going to have a real HD machine there. I'm sure you've put a lot of thought into it but why not use angle iron instead of 3/4 plate to hold the ram down? I would be concerned with the ram lifting and bending the overhanging areas. Angle iron would give before the over hanging plate and would be easier to replace. Are you also going to anchor the front of the cylinder so it doesn't rise? Looking forward to seeing more progress on this!


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 4, 2015)

buzz sawyer said:


> Looks like you're going to have a real HD machine there. I'm sure you've put a lot of thought into it but why not use angle iron instead of 3/4 plate to hold the ram down? I would be concerned with the ram lifting and bending the overhanging areas. Angle iron would give before the over hanging plate and would be easier to replace. Are you also going to anchor the front of the cylinder so it doesn't rise? Looking forward to seeing more progress on this!


To be honest never thought of angle. Only reason I was going to use the 3/4" plate was because I had it, would be plenty thick enough to thread it and figured that it may work. What wall thickness would you recommend for the angle 1/4" or something heavier?


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 4, 2015)

I was basing my design off this pusher.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 4, 2015)

Pic of the push plate


----------



## dave_dj1 (Nov 4, 2015)

Nice!


----------



## GM_Grimmy (Nov 4, 2015)

93green12v said:


> Should I run the baffles parallel with the tank or perpendicular? I'm guessing perpendicular. Thoughts on running return line thru the top or into the side?


Perpendicular!!! I run my return line through the top of my tank. It goes through a diffuser and doesn't just dump into the top of the tank. There's some piping involved so you don't induce air into the oil.


----------



## GM_Grimmy (Nov 4, 2015)

buzz sawyer said:


> Looks like you're going to have a real HD machine there. I'm sure you've put a lot of thought into it but why not use angle iron instead of 3/4 plate to hold the ram down? I would be concerned with the ram lifting and bending the overhanging areas. Angle iron would give before the over hanging plate and would be easier to replace. Are you also going to anchor the front of the cylinder so it doesn't rise? Looking forward to seeing more progress on this!


That's a bad idea. Most rams have the top piece, a spacer and a wider piece on the bottom, all bolted down. Some use a few grade 8 bolts, others use 5+ soft bolts, that way if something does bind and keeps pushing, you will shear the bolts and not damage anything. It's a lot easier to replace bolts then to replace angle iron.

Here's an early pic of mine.




might be tough to see, but well there's 5 bolts.......one is out. But you can see the top piece, spacer and the bottom piece that keeps it from moving up an such. All bolts are soft bolts, found any any hardware store.


----------



## cantoo (Nov 4, 2015)

Looks good. The pusher design is different than what most use. I didn't bother with a diffuser but I did dump the oil in at the bottom. I think I have enough storage that circulating it won't be an issue. I don't work that hard or fast. My Speeco gets too hot to touch but I'm trying to wreck it. 36" cylinder for scale. Ports are in 1st pic on left side of tank. Tank is about 14"x14"x 36" long.


----------



## GM_Grimmy (Nov 4, 2015)

Having the return in the bottom is fine, as long as it doesn't shoot under the baffles. Then it won't let the oil have a slow draw and not let the hot oil go to the top. Hard to explain, but you want to make sure all the oil is being circulated. I had a splitter built by a guy that makes a lot of "commercial splitters" but his tank designed sucked and I had oil temps all over the place. In the corners of my tank, where the temp gauge was mounted, was 20 degrees difference. I had an oil cooler with a 140 degree temp switch, how I found out the difference (it turned on and the temp gauge read 160). You don't have to work hard or fast. When you aren't doing anything, oil is still circulating through the system. My new splitter, that's how I raise the temp, just let it run. I have a 28gpm pump and the first valve is a 30gpm valve with power beyond to a dual spool, 25gpm valve bank (used for the 4 way and log lift) which creates heat. I run a good oil cooler to maintain my 30+ gallon tank. In 89 degree weather, my cooler was cooling all my oil from 135 down to 126 and then shutting off till the temps raised again.

It's all in the design of the system. A million ways to do it.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 4, 2015)

Grimmy did you buy a diffuser or make one? How far does it go into your tank? 

I was planning on making the baffles solid except for clipping the corner that way the oil has to travel around versus going thru or under the baffle.

As far as the push plate goes I plan on bolting it together. When I get a chance to cut the steel I'll pull it off and take some pics to show exactly what I plan on doing. I have a cheap splitter from a store that has the spacers and what not and its all wore out and constantly shears bolts. So I'm trying to stay away from that issue down the road but we'll see what happens.


----------



## buzz sawyer (Nov 4, 2015)

GM_Grimmy said:


> That's a bad idea. Most rams have the top piece, a spacer and a wider piece on the bottom, all bolted down. Some use a few grade 8 bolts, others use 5+ soft bolts, that way if something does bind and keeps pushing, you will shear the bolts and not damage anything. It's a lot easier to replace bolts then to replace angle iron.
> 
> Here's an early pic of mine.
> 
> ...


Your ram is made differently than the OP. I agree with how you did yours and made mine the same way but the OP design will put the force sideways on the bolts - possibly breaking them off and binding in the 3/4" stock. Unless I misunderstood the OP, he cannot set his up like yours with the current ram design.


----------



## GM_Grimmy (Nov 5, 2015)

93green12v said:


> Grimmy did you buy a diffuser or make one? How far does it go into your tank?
> 
> I was planning on making the baffles solid except for clipping the corner that way the oil has to travel around versus going thru or under the baffle.
> 
> As far as the push plate goes I plan on bolting it together. When I get a chance to cut the steel I'll pull it off and take some pics to show exactly what I plan on doing. I have a cheap splitter from a store that has the spacers and what not and its all wore out and constantly shears bolts. So I'm trying to stay away from that issue down the road but we'll see what happens.


I didn't buy a diffuser. The guy that built my splitter made one. I only know that it points to the back of the tank and have no pics of it. I wouldn't run your baffles all the way down. I'd leave 2" on the bottom and 45 degree cut the corners off. You don't want to restrict that much flow, I think you will get into trouble there.

Sorry to hear about you shearing bolts all the time. Something must not be right, or is bent to cause that to happen that often.


----------



## olympyk_999 (Nov 5, 2015)

93green12v said:


> said the engine was an 18hp Wisconsin but further research on the engine found it to be a 14 hp TFD Wisconsin. So I'm hoping he was at least right with the pump.
> 
> Anyone who is a Wisconsin fan want to confirm my findings?


theyre pretty hard to tell the differences if it doesn't have the original sheet metal or tag, which unless you bought it new you wouldn't know ... there are 4 different 2 cylinder wisconsins...the TE (first edition), the TF/TFD (replaced the TE), the TH/THD (replaced the TF), and the TJD(replaced the THD)...
you can pull the head and measure Bore x Stroke...but that's still doesn't narrow it down sometimes, as TF and THD are the same...
Bore x Stroke:
TE - 3" x 3.25"
TF - 3.25" x 3.25"
THD - 3.25" x 3.25"
TJD - 3.25" x 3"
if that doesn't do it then you can go to crank configuration...all but the TJD, have the pistons moving up and down "together" as if it were a single cylinder engine, the TJD are opposite (180 deg. apart)
if still nothing then you can timing/ check firing order... the TE and TF fire both cylinders at the same time basically acting as a single cylinder, the THD even though the pistons also move together, the firing order/timing is 180 deg. apart
its kind of confusing but it can be figured out by just removing the head


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 5, 2015)

olympyk_999 said:


> theyre pretty hard to tell the differences if it doesn't have the original sheet metal or tag, which unless you bought it new you wouldn't know ... there are 4 different 2 cylinder wisconsins...the TE (first edition), the TF/TFD (replaced the TE), the TH/THD (replaced the TF), and the TJD(replaced the THD)...
> you can pull the head and measure Bore x Stroke...but that's still doesn't narrow it down sometimes, as TF and THD are the same...
> Bore x Stroke:
> TE - 3" x 3.25"
> ...


Here is the tag. Is the hp rating 14hp?


----------



## muddstopper (Nov 5, 2015)

All return oil should enter tank below the oil fill level. This insures the oil does not mix with air. If you happen to have a valve or motor that uses case drains, this oil should be returned above oil fill level to prevent suction. This probably doesnt apply to your build. Any oil returned to tank should have its flow directed away from the suction port of the tank. This insures all oil is circulated and not just pushed and pulled thru the pump. Returning oil thru the top of the tank is perfectly acceptable as long as the oil is piped below the oil fill level. One baffle is all that is really needed. A baffle with each bottom corner cut out will work just fine, but you do not want to use a baffle that is completely open across the bottom. Baffle shouldnt reach all the way to the top of the tank as this could create a vacuum on the suction side of the tank. Returning oil can create pressure inside the tank. A small amount of pressure inside the tank is acceptable. Vacuum inside a tank is not.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 5, 2015)

GM_Grimmy said:


> I didn't buy a diffuser. The guy that built my splitter made one. I only know that it points to the back of the tank and have no pics of it. I wouldn't run your baffles all the way down. I'd leave 2" on the bottom and 45 degree cut the corners off. You don't want to restrict that much flow, I think you will get into trouble there.
> 
> Sorry to hear about you shearing bolts all the time. Something must not be right, or is bent to cause that to happen that often.



The splitter needs a solid overhaul but it isn't worth the time to fix a poor design. My friend and I try to sell about 50 face cord a year so this will be a commercial splitter versus the store bought one that is for he homeowner.

Thanks on clarifying the baffles. I may my own diffuser or just plumb the return into the side of the tank. What would you recommend he height to be on the return on the side of the tank? Top of the oil level or mid way or what? Does removing the hydraulic filter going to be an issue with having it lower than the oil level?


----------



## GM_Grimmy (Nov 5, 2015)

93green12v said:


> The splitter needs a solid overhaul but it isn't worth the time to fix a poor design. My friend and I try to sell about 50 face cord a year so this will be a commercial splitter versus the store bought one that is for he homeowner.
> 
> Thanks on clarifying the baffles. I may my own diffuser or just plumb the return into the side of the tank. What would you recommend he height to be on the return on the side of the tank? Top of the oil level or mid way or what? Does removing the hydraulic filter going to be an issue with having it lower than the oil level?


The return height can be what ever you want. Just have a pipe or something so it's returning below the level of the oil. The level of oil won't really effect changing the filter..........unless the return to the top of the oil, there is a gap. In which it would just drain back to the tank when you shut the pump off. When I do mine, I'll have to crack the temp sensor in my oil cooler, and then let the oil flow back to the tank, so I don't make a mess.


----------



## GM_Grimmy (Nov 5, 2015)

muddstopper said:


> One baffle is all that is really needed. A baffle with each bottom corner cut out will work just fine, but you do not want to use a baffle that is completely open across the bottom. Baffle shouldnt reach all the way to the top of the tank as this could create a vacuum on the suction side of the tank. Returning oil can create pressure inside the tank. A small amount of pressure inside the tank is acceptable. Vacuum inside a tank is not.


Why only 1? With the length of his tank I'd think more would be beneficial. My builder of my splitter built hundreds of hydraulic tanks and that's how he built mine, with it open on the bottom. I've seen it on another of his splitters he's built and it works well.


----------



## muddstopper (Nov 5, 2015)

You can put as many baffles as you want too. One is all that is needed. With a small tank and lots of oil flow, then you might need more baffles to break up turbulence.
You can mount your return filter anywhere you want to, but oil from filter to tank must be below the oil fill level. If yo wnat to mount your filter high or on top of the tank, just plumb the return line somwhere below the oil level, or run a pipe inside the tank to below the oil level. If oil drain back is an issue, then install a ball valve between the tank and the filter.


----------



## olympyk_999 (Nov 5, 2015)

93green12v said:


> Here is the tag. Is the hp rating 14hp?


Yes...according to the tag.
But that engine is between 50 to near 70 years old...the sheet metal is the same on all the 2cylinder models. Someone could have replaced it with sheet metal off a different model...pretty common as these engines were used for tons of applications.
That engine even if it really is a TFD has more than enough power to run that pump, you could even put a 28 gpm pump on it no problem.

I have a THD on my splitter which is 16hp running a 28gpm pump and it doesn't even change tune at full pressure (3000psi)
A supposed same HP engine of today has nowhere near the torque of these Wisconsins...


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 5, 2015)

olympyk_999 said:


> Yes...according to the tag.
> But that engine is between 50 to near 70 years old...the sheet metal is the same on all the 2cylinder models. Someone could have replaced it with sheet metal off a different model...pretty common as these engines were used for tons of applications.
> That engine even if it really is a TFD has more than enough power to run that pump, you could even put a 28 gpm pump on it no problem.
> 
> ...


When I bought it, the engine had no spark. The guy was like just send the magneto out and have it gone thru and that began my search for info on these engines. Turned out all it needed was the points to be cleaned and the carb cleaned up. Thing has a hand crack which I'm not fond of but is almost easier to start then so pull cord engines. Just gotta figure out what it wants for cold start.1/2 throttle and full choke or what? It was painted silver and looks like the sheet metal hasn't been tampered with but who knows. It does have a sweet little exhaust note.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 5, 2015)

QUOTE="muddstopper, post: 5604965, member: 73717"]You can put as many baffles as you want too. One is all that is needed. With a small tank and lots of oil flow, then you might need more baffles to break up turbulence.
You can mount your return filter anywhere you want to, but oil from filter to tank must be below the oil fill level. If yo wnat to mount your filter high or on top of the tank, just plumb the return line somwhere below the oil level, or run a pipe inside the tank to below the oil level. If oil drain back is an issue, then install a ball valve between the tank and the filter.[/QUOTE]

just pushed and pulled thru the pump. Returning oil thru the top of the tank is perfectly acceptable as long as the oil is piped below the oil fill level. One baffle is all that is really needed. A baffle with each bottom corner cut out will work just fine, but you do not want to use a baffle that is completely open across the bottom. Baffle shouldnt reach all the way to the top of the tank as this could create a vacuum on the suction side of the tank. Returning oil can create pressure inside the tank. A small amount of pressure inside the tank is acceptable. Vacuum inside a tank is not.[/QUOTE]
I was thinking of running two at 12" apart so I can make the oil travel some. What's an acceptable length of a baffle from the end of baffle to walk of tank?

What height would you recommend for the return if I run it thru the side and close to the bottom of the take? An 1" or 2"? The suction line should be at least 2" from the bottom so it doesn't suck up trash?


----------



## olympyk_999 (Nov 5, 2015)

93green12v said:


> Just gotta figure out what it wants for cold start.1/2 throttle and full choke or what?


mine is throttle at idle, and full choke, at any temp... then after its been running throttle at idle and no choke
I have electric start but it fires off before I can even get the starter button pushed all the way in even at -15 it starts right up...best starting small engine I have ever had
I would highly recommend not using the fuel pump if it still has it...take it off and put a block off plate over the hole, use a gravity feed system with a shutoff at the tank instead, as many starting problems with these engines comes from the fuel pump not working properly


----------



## Kevin in Ohio (Nov 5, 2015)

93green12v said:


> More pics. I'm at a point on my tank and need some ideas. I was trying to split the tank in half with a baffle to make the oil travel as far as possible but I don't think I want the return on the side of the tank closest to the engine where the suction line will go.



If it better for the design you can run a pipe diffuser with most of the holes on the opposite side.







I just drilled holes in it to spread the fluid out and so there is no pressure buildup.






Weldable bungs make enlarging holes for bigger pipe and strainers a breeze


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 5, 2015)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> If it better for the design you can run a pipe diffuser with most of the holes on the opposite side.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Speaking of strainers, I have read some people don't run one and some people do. Honestly what are they going to strain from the pump? Do I have to worry about mill scale coming off over the years in this tank? I'm thinking it's going to be fine I just need to wire wheel the inside welds to remove any bits of wire and junk. Recommendations on pressure testing the tank once I weld the top? Saw that someone recommend shop air to pressurize and go around with soap and water to find bubbles.


----------



## triptester (Nov 5, 2015)

When testing with air be very careful rectangular and tanks become round quickly with even low pressures.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 5, 2015)

triptester said:


> When testing with air be very careful rectangular and tanks become round quickly with even low pressures.


Any better way to test for leaks? Just fill it up and see what happens? I'm pretty confident it won't leak but I'll feel a lot better filling it with something other than expensive oil.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 5, 2015)

buzz sawyer said:


> Your ram is made differently than the OP. I agree with how you did yours and made mine the same way but the OP design will put the force sideways on the bolts - possibly breaking them off and binding in the 3/4" stock. Unless I misunderstood the OP, he cannot set his up like yours with the current ram design.


This is the idea I was going with or I'll get 1" bar stock. The bolts will go thru the sides instead of the top.


----------



## GM_Grimmy (Nov 5, 2015)

As long as they don't rub on your I-beam and are a weak point in case something goes wonky........bolts are easier to replace then your I beam..........then go for it!


----------



## muddstopper (Nov 5, 2015)

> ="93green12v, post: 5605067, member: 138920"]QUOTE="muddstopper, post: 5604965, member: 73717"]You can put as many baffles as you want too. One is all that is needed. With a small tank and lots of oil flow, then you might need more baffles to break up turbulence.
> You can mount your return filter anywhere you want to, but oil from filter to tank must be below the oil fill level. If yo wnat to mount your filter high or on top of the tank, just plumb the return line somwhere below the oil level, or run a pipe inside the tank to below the oil level. If oil drain back is an issue, then install a ball valve between the tank and the filter.



just pushed and pulled thru the pump. Returning oil thru the top of the tank is perfectly acceptable as long as the oil is piped below the oil fill level. One baffle is all that is really needed. A baffle with each bottom corner cut out will work just fine, but you do not want to use a baffle that is completely open across the bottom. Baffle shouldnt reach all the way to the top of the tank as this could create a vacuum on the suction side of the tank. Returning oil can create pressure inside the tank. A small amount of pressure inside the tank is acceptable. Vacuum inside a tank is not.[/QUOTE] 

I was thinking of running two at 12" apart so I can make the oil travel some. What's an acceptable length of a baffle from the end of baffle to walk of tank?

What height would you recommend for the return if I run it thru the side and close to the bottom of the take? An 1" or 2"? The suction line should be at least 2" from the bottom so it doesn't suck up trash?[/QUOTE] 

the purpose of the baffle is to let the oil settle out. Oil under pressure will trap air as well as other contaminates and is also carrying heat. The baffle separates the oil giving it time to settle down, let the air flow out, and transfer some of the heat. The baffle should extend side to side across the tank. Baffle height should be below the full level of the tank so that oil can travel over the top of the baffle. Bottom of baffle can have opening, but not completely bridge the bottom of the tank. A baffle made to create a full bridge across the bottom of the tank just pulls the oil straight from the return and under the baffle, along with all the nasties it might be carrying. Placing the return portat or almost at the bottom will cause the returning oil to wash up any nasties that might have accumalated at the bottom of the tank..I would keep the return at least a couple of inches off the bottom. A diffuser that divertes the returning oil side to side instead of directing flow downward is a good ideal, even tho lots of tanks dont use diffusers. . I also agree with using a suction strainer to help protect the pump. Even tho a good return filter will catch any small nasties, Bigger things often get into the tank, because of a plugged return filter, or carelessness when adding oil.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 5, 2015)

GM_Grimmy said:


> As long as they don't rub on your I-beam and are a weak point in case something goes wonky........bolts are easier to replace then your I beam..........then go for it!


What kind of spacing should it have?


----------



## GM_Grimmy (Nov 5, 2015)

My ram is 14" long, has 5 bolts per side, about 2.75" spacing.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 6, 2015)

GM_Grimmy said:


> My ram is 14" long, has 5 bolts per side, about 2.75" spacing.


I was talking about the spacing where the push plate and I beam meet underneath.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 6, 2015)

What's your guys thoughts on boxing in the ends of the I beam? How far is too far? I was planning around 10" a side and box in the end.


----------



## Kevin in Ohio (Nov 6, 2015)

93green12v said:


> Speaking of strainers, I have read some people don't run one and some people do. Honestly what are they going to strain from the pump? Do I have to worry about mill scale coming off over the years in this tank? I'm thinking it's going to be fine I just need to wire wheel the inside welds to remove any bits of wire and junk. Recommendations on pressure testing the tank once I weld the top? Saw that someone recommend shop air to pressurize and go around with soap and water to find bubbles.


 
The strainer is mounted BEFORE the pump in the tank. The filter is on the return before it goes back into the tank. You don't want to starve the pump and I've seen people do that by putting the filter on the suction to the pump. The strainer is just a low restriction filter to get the big stuff. Could become a restriction if you had all kinds of junk in there and never cleaned it.







Close up of suction line from tank to pump. Welded on bung and strainers neck it down. Heavy band clamps keep the spiral suction hose in place. Way better than standard auto clamps.







It's a straight. short run to the pump.

The more steel the better has been my motto in reference to your beam. I use the Box beam slide as I like it better than an I beam. I've never had to repair any I've built. Can't say that for others Ibeams Wear on them is basically non existant but a long slide had tons to do with that.


----------



## GM_Grimmy (Nov 6, 2015)

93green12v said:


> I was talking about the spacing where the push plate and I beam meet underneath.


Oh, that I don't know. I know it's tight, so the ram doesn't wiggle and feel sloppy (my last one was loose as a goose! and I say a flaw in engineering). I used to know the clearances but it's been awhile since it's been built and I forgot.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 6, 2015)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> The strainer is mounted BEFORE the pump in the tank. The filter is on the return before it goes back into the tank. You don't want to starve the pump and I've seen people do that by putting the filter on the suction to the pump. The strainer is just a low restriction filter to get the big stuff. Could become a restriction if you had all kinds of junk in there and never cleaned it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I was looking on your build thread before I started mine and that's a pretty sweet setup you made there. Dumb question but with the weld on bungs do you put the bigger side in the tank? I bought my parts from Split-Ez website and I want to clarify which way the bungs go in.


----------



## olympyk_999 (Nov 6, 2015)

93green12v said:


> I was looking on your build thread before I started mine and that's a pretty sweet setup you made there. Dumb question but with the weld on bungs do you put the bigger side in the tank? I bought my parts from Split-Ez website and I want to clarify which way the bungs go in.


 the flange goes on the outside...


----------



## Kevin in Ohio (Nov 6, 2015)

93green12v said:


> I was looking on your build thread before I started mine and that's a pretty sweet setup you made there. Dumb question but with the weld on bungs do you put the bigger side in the tank? I bought my parts from Split-Ez website and I want to clarify which way the bungs go in.



Like stated above, Non machined surface to the outide.






I had years to come up with my plan of what I wanted to suit how we process wood. Seeing what did and din't work with other splitters is how I came up with what I built. Happy as a lark with it. No bending over working height is the biggest plus anyone can make and it's amazing how better you feel at the end of a full day.






Will enjoy seeing your vision come together.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 8, 2015)

These are the bungs I have, I'm gonna say the first pic is how they should be installed in the tank and the back side goest gains the tank. What would you recommend for cutting these holes out? I was planning on using hole saws and if that doesn't pan out I'll use my plasma cutter and free hand them.


----------



## GM_Grimmy (Nov 8, 2015)

If it were me I'd use a hole saw, but I've never built anything like that.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Kevin in Ohio (Nov 8, 2015)

Hole saws work fine but MAKE sure you keep plenty of oil on them and don't overheat them. They last a long time if you keep the oil and coolness. If not, you won't even make one hole before it's junk.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 8, 2015)

I got the bungs going the right way?


----------



## muddstopper (Nov 8, 2015)

The first picture is how the bungs go.


----------



## olympyk_999 (Nov 8, 2015)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> Hole saws work fine but MAKE sure you keep plenty of oil on them and don't overheat them. They last a long time if you keep the oil and coolness. If not, you won't even make one hole before it's junk.


and SLOW speed...


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 8, 2015)

First one is a 3/4" drain plug, second is 1-1/4" return and last one is a 2" suction. Hole saw was the way to go. I used a step drill bit for the 3/4" bung and what a PITA that was, cheap bit from harbor freight but may have gone too fast and killed it.

It's coming together just haven't had anytime to work on it been helping a friend build a garage. Hopefully this upcoming week I can clean the tank out, weld the top on, make some brackets for the valves and start to figure out how I want to build a log lift.


----------



## olympyk_999 (Nov 8, 2015)

cantoo said:


> Looks good. The pusher design is different than what most use. I didn't bother with a diffuser but I did dump the oil in at the bottom. I think I have enough storage that circulating it won't be an issue. I don't work that hard or fast. My Speeco gets too hot to touch but I'm trying to wreck it. 36" cylinder for scale. Ports are in 1st pic on left side of tank. Tank is about 14"x14"x 36" long.
> View attachment 458625


cantoo... is that a millermatic 200?


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 8, 2015)

olympyk_999 said:


> cantoo... is that a millermatic 200?


Yes it is. It got the machine from a friend and it wouldn't more than strike an arch and wouldn't keep feeding wire. It had a whip for a Lincoln machine not a Miller. Ever since changing it out it has been a great machine.


----------



## olympyk_999 (Nov 8, 2015)

93green12v said:


> Yes it is. It got the machine from a friend and it wouldn't more than strike an arch and wouldn't keep feeding wire. It had a whip for a Lincoln machine not a Miller. Ever since changing it out it has been a great machine.


Yeah I saw yours is a 200...its a mm200 "vintage" isn't it? It's definitely a late model...late 80's early 90's..
Anyways I was actually talking about cantoo's machine...looks like a black face mm200 with a dual cylinder rack?

I have a black face 200 with all the options...best mig machine I've ever used...best mig according to alot of others too...


----------



## olympyk_999 (Nov 8, 2015)

olympyk_999 said:


> Yeah I saw yours is a 200...its a mm200 "vintage" isn't it? It's definitely a late model...late 80's early 90's..
> Anyways I was actually talking about cantoo's machine...looks like a black face mm200 with a dual cylinder rack?
> 
> I have a black face 200 with all the options...best mig machine I've ever used...best mig according to alot of others too...


I looked at yours again...looks like a late model black face 200...not a vintage model...


----------



## cantoo (Nov 8, 2015)

olympyk_999 said:


> cantoo... is that a millermatic 200?


I think it is Olympyk_99, we've had voltage issues with it ever since we got it but that hasn't stopped us from putting 100's of hours on it. It belongs to my day job company. We build highway trailers to carry house modules, the trailers and pieces weight approx. 65,000 lbs so it sees a lot of heavy steel. We've had it so hot that even with welding gloves on it's too hot to hold the feed. We have a new Miller but it's in the other shop and doesn't get near as much use. I have a small Lincoln at home but build most of my stuff at work.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 11, 2015)

Got some more work done last night. Was able to put the baffles in, add the sight glass and temp gauge and started to add what the valves are going to be mounted to.


----------



## Kevin in Ohio (Nov 11, 2015)

Might just be the photo but how close is the valve tip to the push plate? You don't want them too close if you are planning on doing bigger ones as the may hit while getting them into position and such. I have my wedge on the ram but have 14 inches from the tip of the ram to the end of the valve piston where the handle attaches. No regrets on that position as your wing span(arms) make for a comfortable reach.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 11, 2015)

My have been a bad angle but the valves are just sitting there at the moment. I'm going to use some plate to bolt them to so I can adjust how close I am to the push plate. I'm thinking I may put collars on the cylinder so it's only a 24" stroke. 

Question for you Kevin, how thick of steel did you use to mount your valves on? I have a lot of 12 gauge but I'm thinking 1/8" or 1/4" would be better. Is that a big chunk of beech your splitting there?


----------



## Kevin in Ohio (Nov 11, 2015)

Yes, That is Beech. We have loads of the big stuff over at Dad's farm. Great firewood to say the least.






I used 3/8" plate. They are free standing on each side with no bracing needed. Notice I did use a small length of hose between the valves for vibtation isolation.

I have adjustable stops on mine as well. Cylinder will do 30 inches but I have the normal stop at 24". Great time saver but you CAN do the others if needed for that occasional oddball.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 11, 2015)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> Yes, That is Beech. We have loads of the big stuff over at Dad's farm. Great firewood to say the least.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's all we cut and sell is Beech. Very dense and heavy. It grows like a weed over hear, the land was never managed properly so all the valuable timber has been cut over the years and no one ever kept the beech in check until we started into it. I've come to not like cutting them down much, it's always fun to find one that is all rotten in the middle. Also learned a valuable lesson cutting multiple stems. Almost got hurt and ruined a new saw that was not a good day.


----------



## Kevin in Ohio (Nov 12, 2015)

93green12v said:


> That's all we cut and sell is Beech. Very dense and heavy. It grows like a weed over hear, the land was never managed properly so all the valuable timber has been cut over the years and no one ever kept the beech in check until we started into it. I've come to not like cutting them down much, it's always fun to find one that is all rotten in the middle. Also learned a valuable lesson cutting multiple stems. Almost got hurt and ruined a new saw that was not a good day.



Got them this big???






This was the biggest one we had. It was 5 ft in diameter. We just cut the dead and blow overs. That is more than we can keep up with normally. We have lots of fence rows that need trimmed out as well.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 12, 2015)

No I don't think so but have some sugar maple that size. Was that tree solid in the center or all rotten? Everything we cut, we try to keep it 20" and under.


----------



## Kevin in Ohio (Nov 12, 2015)

93green12v said:


> No I don't think so but have some sugar maple that size. Was that tree solid in the center or all rotten? Everything we cut, we try to keep it 20" and under.


















It was solid. That was what made it so rare and sad. It was completely topped by the reminants of Hurricane Ike when the winds rolled through here. 2*0 ft up it Y'd. One branch over 3 ft, the other 4 ft. We left the totem hoping it would still live, it didn't. Cut it up the next year and 18 cord from one tree. Tree was over 400 years old, Rare for a Beech around here. Most of ours are 3 to 4 ft and about 75% offall downs have some hollow unless they are uprooted blow downs. *


----------



## Deleted member 83629 (Nov 13, 2015)

93green12v said:


> Here is the tag. Is the hp rating 14hp?


Wisconsin TFD Specifications
Two cylinder air cooled 4 cycle
Even firing @ 360 degrees intervals
59.92 in Displacement
3.25 in Stroke
3.25 in Bore
Rated Power @ rpm
13.3 hp @ 2600 rpm
RPM ------ HP ------ TORQUE FT LBS
1400 8.6 32.3
1600 9.9 32.5
1800 11.1 32.4
2000 12.0 31.5
2200 12.6 30.1
2400 13.0 28.4
2600 13.3 26.9


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 15, 2015)

jakewells said:


> Wisconsin TFD Specifications
> Two cylinder air cooled 4 cycle
> Even firing @ 360 degrees intervals
> 59.92 in Displacement
> ...


Thanks for the specs.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 20, 2015)

Well finally got back in the garage and was able to finish my hydraulic tank. Installed the filler cap and the sight level and temp gauge. I boxed in the wedge side of the I beam, I still have the cylinder side to box in and all that is left to do is a log lift and table.


----------



## olympyk_999 (Nov 20, 2015)

93green12v said:


> Well finally got back in the garage and was able to finish my hydraulic tank. Installed the filler cap and the sight level and temp gauge. I boxed in the wedge side of the I beam, I still have the cylinder side to box in and all that is left to do is a log lift and table.


Be careful with that sight glass, I had the same one on my splitter and the glass that comes with it is just plate glass, not tempered like it should be and cracks real easy...


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 22, 2015)

olympyk_999 said:


> Be careful with that sight glass, I had the same one on my splitter and the glass that comes with it is just plate glass, not tempered like it should be and cracks real easy...


Did yours crack from use?


----------



## olympyk_999 (Nov 22, 2015)

93green12v said:


> Did yours crack from use?


It cracked when I tightened the bolts because it was leaking past the o rings


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 22, 2015)

What did you replace it with? I was afraid I was going to melt the o-rings when I was welding the top on.


----------



## bigbadbob (Nov 22, 2015)

olympyk_999 said:


> It cracked when I tightened the bolts because it was leaking past the o rings


I broke mine when I put a half split round on the shelf and the plate grabbed it on return and pushed the round back into the tank/glass, actually pushed the tank in a hair!!!
Sucked but what do you do.
BBB


----------



## olympyk_999 (Nov 22, 2015)

93green12v said:


> What did you replace it with? I was afraid I was going to melt the o-rings when I was welding the top on.


with this ZINGA brand one

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/Zinga/5-RESERVOIR-SIGHT-LEVEL-GAUGE-W-THERMOMETER-9-7287-5.axd

...same hole spacing...uses a polycarbonate (lexan) "glass" which is very flexible compared to the plate glass.
I think it looks better too...especially since my tank is stainless...the black on the other one looked out of place


----------



## olympyk_999 (Nov 22, 2015)

93green12v said:


> I was afraid I was going to melt the o-rings when I was welding the top on


did you not weld the nuts on the inside of the tank? which is why you didn't remove the gauge when welding the top on?


----------



## bigbadbob (Nov 22, 2015)

olympyk_999 said:


> with this ZINGA brand one
> 
> http://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/Zinga/5-RESERVOIR-SIGHT-LEVEL-GAUGE-W-THERMOMETER-9-7287-5.axd
> 
> ...


Great price but,,,for Canada,
Only $22.35 shipping UPS ground!!!
So $40.30 total plus $12 exchange,,, YIKES!!! $52.00
BBB


----------



## olympyk_999 (Nov 22, 2015)

bigbadbob said:


> Great price but,,,for Canada,
> Only $22.35 shipping UPS ground!!!
> So $40.30 total plus $12 exchange,,, YIKES!!! $52.00
> BBB


the buyers brand one he currently has is only around $3 cheaper on the same site...


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 23, 2015)

olympyk_999 said:


> did you not weld the nuts on the inside of the tank? which is why you didn't remove the gauge when welding the top on?


I didn't weld the nuts on. Why I don't know, mental error on my part but if I have a problem I'm just going to put a access panel on top so I can fix my mistake. So hopefully I have no leaks at the gauge and everything works great but I doubt it.


----------



## 93green12v (Dec 7, 2015)

Alright, now I need some help or better ideas. I tacked in my log lift and the cylinder I had, the way I have it now is as far as the cylinder can go without tipping the I beam over. If I lengthen my mounting point and attach it to the bottom of the I beam would I be able to get the full travel out of the cylinder?


----------



## GM_Grimmy (Dec 7, 2015)

You can put the bottom of the cylinder (the part that doesn't extend) where ever you want (I would put it on the bottom of the i=beam, maybe make a mount for it) but I would move where it attaches the to log lift so that with the beam level, the cylinder all the way in, the bottom of your lift is flat on the ground. Then you won't have to worry about tipping your splitter. It might move it a little depending on how the ground is. Just my $.02.


----------



## muddstopper (Dec 7, 2015)

I usually just draw out the cyl mounting points on the garage floor. You need three measurments, pin distance at full retract, full extend and half way. If the hinge point of your log lift is where you want it, then figureing out the rod end of the cyl mount is pretty easy. Just go half stroke from the center of the hinge toward the outer edge of the lift platform. That is where you want to make your rod end mount. Depending on the length of your cyl, this might be all the way out to the end, or somewhere in the middle. Using the rod end mounting point you have just established, set the lift in the full down position take the full retracted lengh and draw a arch. Then with the log lift in the fully raised position, use the full extend lenght and you draw another arch. Where the two arch's intersect is where you place your base end mount. This way the lift will go full down or up at full extend or full retract.


----------



## 93green12v (Dec 7, 2015)

Thanks guys. I think my first mistake was the mounting points for the lift is to close to the top of the beam and I don't think my push plate will get by. So I need to lower that, the tabs I made for the cylinder are too short. Need to buy more steel and I'm sure the tabs I made are only 1/4" and that isn't enough for strength. Muddstopper thanks for giving me a way to lay it out. May draw it out and post the pic so I'm sure I understood you correctly.


----------



## dave_dj1 (Dec 8, 2015)

My log lift mount is on the bottom of the beam. You're going to want those hinges in double shear, you will thank me later. I had the same problem with the ram slide clearing things. It just takes some trial and error.  Keep up the good work!


----------



## triptester (Dec 8, 2015)

Make sure the mounts allow the lift to swing ground level to near vertical so the lift will be out of the way for transport.


----------



## olympyk_999 (Dec 8, 2015)

I made my lift mounts extend far enough out from the beam so the push plate wouldn't hit the lift no mater what position it's in...


----------



## muddstopper (Dec 8, 2015)

93green12v said:


> Thanks guys. I think my first mistake was the mounting points for the lift is to close to the top of the beam and I don't think my push plate will get by. So I need to lower that, the tabs I made for the cylinder are too short. Need to buy more steel and I'm sure the tabs I made are only 1/4" and that isn't enough for strength. Muddstopper thanks for giving me a way to lay it out. May draw it out and post the pic so I'm sure I understood you correctly.


 I dont know if you can see the way I laid it out using auto cad. This is how I made the mounts for my knuckle boom using circles. Little different than your build but the principles are the same. Where the circles intersect at the lowest point is where the base end of the cylinder sets.


----------



## 93green12v (Dec 8, 2015)

olympyk_999 said:


> I made my lift mounts extend far enough out from the beam so the push plate wouldn't hit the lift no mater what position it's in...
> 
> Thanks for the pictures. I'm guessing mine will need to be moved out from the cylinder so it clears the beam. I'm not worried about transporting height. It'll be inside the trailer frame so doesn't matter much, not sure if you guys have ran or got a chance to check out the Timberwolf splitters but it'll be similar to that setup. What thickness of material did you use 1/2" or 3/8"?
> 
> ...


----------



## olympyk_999 (Dec 8, 2015)

the lift mounts are 1/2" material, the cylinder mounts are 3/4" material


----------



## 93green12v (Dec 10, 2015)




----------



## 93green12v (Dec 10, 2015)

Not the nicest looking setup at the moment but I got everything to work had to lower the brackets that the log lift connects to the I beam and add some length to the cylinder brackets to get everything to work. Thinking I should gusset these brackets or have something made that looks a lot nicer.

On average what did hydraulic lines and fittings cost for everyone? Not looking forward to that bill lol.


----------



## olympyk_999 (Dec 10, 2015)

93green12v said:


> On average what did hydraulic lines and fittings cost for everyone? Not looking forward to that bill lol


mine are all parker brand=$$
I know the manager at the parker store, and do a lot of business with him through my work so he gave me a good deal...but he said if he were to charge me full price it would have been around $950...he charged me $600
I have all JIC fittings, and quite a few 90 deg. sweeps which add up quick, I also have 2 separate valves which require a return for each, plus the power beyond to the next valve...
I know a lot of guys buy premade hoses from place like surplus center for a decent price, mine are all custom length as they were fitted at the hydraulic shop


----------



## cantoo (Dec 10, 2015)

93green12v, I just plumbed my splitter and got most of the hoses and fittings at Princess Auto. Now that it is done I wish I had of just taken it to a farm equipment dealer and had them plumb it up. I used some off the shelf hoses and had to use multiple fittings to make everything work. Might have been a few more dollars for custom fitted hoses but the savings in fittings and the resulting heat build up and potential for leaks would have made it a better deal.
Next time at the very least I will haul the splitter to a Princess Auto parking lot and do it hose by hose to save a pile of trips. Princess Auto is a 3 hour round trip for me. Long sweep 90's, exact length of hoses is the way to go.


----------



## 93green12v (Dec 10, 2015)

I was thinking if I could get hoses for under 1k, I'd be real happy. I know it seems like when I break a line at work its at least 50 bucks or more depending on size and length. I'm taking it to a hydraulic shop to have everything done. I'm not screwing trying to do it all, it is one thing to redo stuff with steel but lines and fittings are too expensive. If I have an issue with heat build up or something I can drag it back to them.


----------



## olympyk_999 (Dec 10, 2015)

93green12v said:


> I was thinking if I could get hoses for under 1k, I'd be real happy. I know it seems like when I break a line at work its at least 50 bucks or more depending on size and length. I'm taking it to a hydraulic shop to have everything done. I'm not screwing trying to do it all, it is one thing to redo stuff with steel but lines and fittings are too expensive. If I have an issue with heat build up or something I can drag it back to them.


the real cost for something like a log splitter that typically have "short" hoses are the fittings...all but 3 of my hoses are less than 4' long so there aint much hose there


----------



## 93green12v (Dec 10, 2015)

Just got down some wood to test this splitter out on once I get it running.....little off topic but can't help it.


----------



## muddstopper (Dec 11, 2015)

being the scrounger that I am, I salvage hoses when I can. At work, whenever a hose blows, its usually next to the coupling. I take the old hose when I go buy a new one and just get them to cut the bursted end off. New hose goes on equipment, old hose comes home with me. Been collecting for a long time and I have a shelf full of old hoses with just one end on them. When the time comes, I will sort thru them, pick out the ones I can use, cut to length, and put on a new end. We dont use anything less than 3700psi hoses at work, and many are 5000psi. You want to buy a expensive hose, try buying a the 5000psi ones. I have paid over $400 for one hose not over 2ft long.


----------



## 93green12v (Dec 15, 2015)

Need some thoughts on this, I'm making a log grate out of 2x2 angle and not happy with the way it's turning out. Need some input, I have a sheet of 12 gauge I may use but would prefer grated instead of solid. At the moment it's removable too.


----------



## Kevin in Ohio (Dec 15, 2015)

Don't know what you are using it for or where, but have you thought about flooring? This has worked well for me. If this is for an outward push from the splitter itself, double wall pipe? solid bar?


----------



## bigbadbob (Dec 15, 2015)

cantoo said:


> 93green12v, I just plumbed my splitter and got most of the hoses and fittings at Princess Auto. Now that it is done I wish I had of just taken it to a farm equipment dealer and had them plumb it up. I used some off the shelf hoses and had to use multiple fittings to make everything work. Might have been a few more dollars for custom fitted hoses but the savings in fittings and the resulting heat build up and potential for leaks would have made it a better deal.
> Next time at the very least I will haul the splitter to a Princess Auto parking lot and do it hose by hose to save a pile of trips. Princess Auto is a 3 hour round trip for me. Long sweep 90's, exact length of hoses is the way to go.


I took my splitter to Princess Auto and the did custom hoses on site.
Worked out very well. all 3/4.
BBB


----------



## cantoo (Dec 15, 2015)

My offside table on my 36" splitter is 35 x 90" long. I plan to use a tipping wagon to hold it. I used expanded metal that I bought at auction sale last summer. I bought 10 sheets and plan to make the bed of the tipping wagon with it also. Tongue is getting light on mine. I'm planning on a jack on the back anyway but need some tongue weight for towing.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 10, 2016)

Haven't posted in along time, it's been a rough year. Any ways I need some input from anyone running a TJD Wisconsin on there splitter. What did you use for a pump bracket to mount it to the engine?

I recently bought an old Yazoo mower with a TJD that is currently sitting on my splitter but the pump bracket from my TFD isn't the same size. It's too short so again need some ideas please.


----------



## dave_dj1 (Nov 10, 2016)

I'm not much help but I do know that Surplus supply has more than one pump mount available, they come in different lengths. I opted to cut about an inch off my engine shaft to keep things compact.


----------



## muddstopper (Nov 10, 2016)

I had to cut about a inch off my Kholer engine shaft in order to use a store bought mount. If the shaft is to long, I have no problem sawing the shaft off.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 11, 2016)

That would work, what did you use to cut it off? Hack saw or receprocating saw? How did you keep the end of the shaft true and flush?


----------



## Kevin in Ohio (Nov 11, 2016)

93green12v said:


> That would work, what did you use to cut it off? Hack saw or receprocating saw? How did you keep the end of the shaft true and flush?


 
Any of those will work along with a cut off wheel or angle grinder. Just watch the heat with the last 2 as you don't want to melt a seal. Leave it a little long and true up with a grinder or DA type sander. I use an angle grinder with a 80 grit Regalite Polycut disc. Here is a link to how I did my adapter. It has pics and how to do it. Starts at pic 170.

http://imageevent.com/kevininohio/woodsplitter?n=0&z=2&c=4&x=0&m=24&w=0&p=0

The shaft does NOT have to be perfectly flat. You don't want them to touch anyway. You need to have space between your coupling for heat expansion and such. Not doing that and you'll shorten the life of everything.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 11, 2016)

Alright well that should save me the headache of trying to make a different mount. It's not going to be fun cutting thru 1-7/16" shaft. I get nervous cutting on crank shafts but I had this done on my last engine I had for a different splitter but I took it to a machine shop to do it.

Wasn't any easy engine to find so I didn't want to chop off the crank shaft or screw it up.


----------



## muddstopper (Nov 11, 2016)

I cut my shafts off with a cutoff disc and just lay a wet rag on the shaft while cutting. If you want it to be true and straight, which it doesnt have to be, you can crank up the engine and hit the flat surface with the grinder as it turns. Wouldnt be perfect-perfect, but it would be perfect enough for what it needs to do.


----------



## Big_Eddy (Nov 11, 2016)

I'm not recommending this, but the Redneck method is to install a blade backwards into your hacksaw, fire the engine up at idle, and slowly lower your hacksaw onto the shaft. Backwards is so if it catches, it pulls the saw out of your hand, doesn't throw it into your face. Safety first!


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 11, 2016)

Good way to kill myself. I'll pass but I'm sure it's effective.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 15, 2016)

I did it cut the crankshaft down and it all fits together now.

Anyone know how much or any expansion happens in the love joy couplers? I haven't measured how much space I have but it does spin without contact the bracket.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 15, 2016)

Here is the TJD I got all mounted up.


----------



## GM_Grimmy (Nov 16, 2016)

93green12v said:


> I did it cut the crankshaft down and it all fits together now.
> 
> Anyone know how much or any expansion happens in the love joy couplers? I haven't measured how much space I have but it does spin without contact the bracket.


It'll be fine. Mine is like that too.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 16, 2016)

So I'm scratching my head on this and I think I have too many return lines. When I get back to the garage I'll snap a pick of the hose diagram I got with my valves.

Black and red hose is return and also the tee to the filter is how it's returns.


----------



## muddstopper (Nov 17, 2016)

Hard to tell how you have it plumbed with the Hose at the top of the picture, as well as the hose on the left, going out of the pic. It looks to me you are running pressure into the valve on the left side first, and them looping a hose from the PB back to the valve on the right, pressure port. The return from the valve on the right is looped from the rightside valve and connected to the return on the leftside valve, by a tee and then the hose loops out of pic back to the return filter. This should work, but kind of looks like a roundabout way to get there. Not knowing exactly what or why you plumbed things the way you did, I would probably plumb the pressure line into the valve on the right side first, then use a short hose to connect the right side valve PB port to the Pressure port of the left side valve. The return from the first valve, I would probably just run straight to a tee at the filter and also run the return from the second valve to the opposite side of the same tee. I think that would shorthen the hose runs and maybe make the plumbing a little neater without all those looping hoses. Nothing wrong with teeing the return lines together and you do need one return for each valve. Unless you have another line running to the filter that is not in the pic, then things should work the way it is currently plumbed.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 17, 2016)

I was told to set it up this way. From a gentleman that works for a local hydraulic company. All the pressure goes to my cylinder first then bleed off to the secondary valve. This is from an engineering perspective. Not the mess of hose I made.

Pressure line is fed in the left valve( looking at the pic) goes thru the auto cycle valve makes a loop to the second valve that runs the wedge and log lift. Both valves have a return line one is that pressure line that goes out of the frame but both returns go thru the filter.


----------



## dave_dj1 (Nov 17, 2016)

I know you have your shaft cut but when I did mine I fired up the engine and used a cutoff wheel in the grinder, it worked well. In fact it's not the only time I have done this, I installed what is called a slip yoke eliminator on a Jeep transfer case output shaft, same thing, put tape around it, started Jeep, put in gear (no front or rear driveshafts) and used the cut off wheel in the grinder. It makes for a nice straight cut.


----------



## muddstopper (Nov 17, 2016)

With both valves in center position, all oil is going thru the first valve, out the PB, thru pressure port of second valve, out the return port of your second valve to the filter then to tank, either valve will work. When ever the first valve, ( autocycle valve) is shifted, all oil is diverted to the work ports to make the cyl move, and out the return ports of valve back to filter.Since both levers on the ACV are fully shifted, No oil will go to the second valve. Any bleed over of oil to the second valve would be minimal. The only time you will be able to use the second set of valves is when the ACV is in center position. If this is how you want the hyd to work, then your plumbing is correct. I suspect the second valve is your log lift and for some other function not yet determined since the ports are plugged. As plumbed, your log lift will not work as long as the splitting cyl is moving. This might be what you are wanting, but not the way I would do it. It is my personal choice, not a requirement to do it another way. Since a log lift would only take a moment to lift or lower, I think I would want to be able to do so while the splitter is going in and out, not waiting on the splitter to complete its cycle before moving. If you run the fluid thru the valve on the right side first, and then to the autocycle valve, you would be able to activate the autocycle valve and start the splitting and then while the splitter is in cycle, still be able to raise and lower your log lift. The splitting cycle would only be interrupted for the time it takes to make whatever adjustment needed for the log lift and as soon as you released the loglift the spitting cycle would finish. Since you already have your machine plumbed, I would go ahead and give it a try and see if it works to suit you, you can always change it later if you find you want to be able to use the log lift while splitting, its just a matter of moving two hoses, assuming the valve on the right does have PB.


----------



## muddstopper (Nov 17, 2016)

I thought I might add encase you do decide to plumb as I suggested. The PB port of your Auotcycle valve should have a adapter to make the valve PB capable. It wont be a matter of simply capping that pb port, the adapter will have to be removed. Failure to remove adapter and just capping the PB port will convert the valve to a closed center valve and block oil flow back to tank. The adapter separates the Pressure out port from the return to tank port. Once the adapter is removed, you can use either the pb or the return port for return oil. Since both valves seem to be from the same manufacturer, and the valve on the right currently has the PB port plugged, the valve probably doesnt have the PB adapter installed, I suspect the PB adapter once removed from the valve on the left can be reused in the pb port of the valve on the right. *Very important that you dont just cap the PB port of the valve on the left without removing the PB adapter, failure to do so will block high pressure oil and can either blow a hose, burst the valve or bust the pump. At the least it will cause all oil to dump over relief causing oil to over heat
*
I also need to ask, have you already tried the current setup and did it work or are you having problems being the reason you are scratching your head and asking about to many return lines. In order for your current setup to work the ACV would have to have the PB adapter installed, otherwise no pressure will build and all oil is just returning back to tank.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 18, 2016)

Yeah I was splitting wood with it last night!

I was just concerned I over complicated things or didn't read over the hydraulic diagram I got with the valves very well.

Both valves have PB ports and I only have on adapter so I'd pull it out any how if I switch it around like you said.


----------



## muddstopper (Nov 18, 2016)

Better to ask first than find out something is wrong after breaking expensive parts. 

How do you like it so far. I dont see a pic of it splitting wood, You know what everybody says about pic or it didnt happen.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 18, 2016)

It splits, I will shoot a video and toss it up on YouTube when I get everything buttoned up. Shot a small clip on my phone but said it was too big to load.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 27, 2016)

Splitting some blue spruce I count down.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 29, 2016)

How do I edit my last post? Just need count changed to cut because I'm an idiot


----------



## muddstopper (Nov 29, 2016)

Look just below your post, just left of center where it says edit, delete, report. click on edit.


----------



## 93green12v (Nov 29, 2016)

Thanks muddstopper but with the video, there is no edit for me to click on. I'll get it figured out.


----------



## 93green12v (Dec 4, 2016)

Well finally gave my splitter the shake down. Split for about an hour, found some leaks and a loose hydraulic line.

Besides that was splitting mostly ash and some box elder for fun. It did good except for some knotty nasty pieces. Once I have some money to throw at it I'll buy a bigger cylinder and shorten the stroke or keep it long.


----------



## Jakers (Dec 4, 2016)

I would consider welding nuts or even little nipples on the pusher for traction to limit the slippage. when splitting uneven cut crotches and gnarly stuff the pieces will want to kick out or ride up. also maybe add some extensions to it so it pushes past the wedge by half inch or so. that really helps on the stringy stuff that requires full stroke. just friendly advice


----------



## bigbadbob (Dec 4, 2016)

I see you dont have a deadman on the valve for the split cycle,, little dangerous, the rest looks awesome.


----------



## dave_dj1 (Dec 5, 2016)

What is a deadman on the valve?


----------



## ChoppyChoppy (Dec 5, 2016)

When you let go it stops.

My processor doesn't either, but the splitter has a "v" trough so it's pretty rare to have a hand near the wood.


----------



## muddstopper (Dec 5, 2016)

According to wiki, A *dead man's switch* (for other names, see alternative names) is a switch that is automatically operated if the human operator becomes incapacitated, such as through death, loss of consciousness, or being bodily removed from control

ball valves are considered deadmans, if they have a spring return handles. A spring return to center control valve would be considered a deadman if the control handle spring returns to center position if you take your hand off the valve. Locomotives use a deadman valve that will stop the train in the event the engineer becomes incapacitated and can no longer control the train. There is also another switch that has to be manually operated at regular intervals to prevent someone from rigging the deadman and bypassing the failsafe. I cant tell what kind of control valve is being used on this splitter. A normal splitter valve is normally spring centered but there are many variations. One variation very common on production splitters would be a spring centered control valve with detent, where if the lever is placed in detent in one direction, the valve will continue to function until a set pressure is met. Another would be a autocycle valve, (which is what I suspect is on this splitter)
where two levers are activated with detent in both directions. When pressure is made in one direction, the valve automatically shifts spools and directs oil flow in a different direction until pressure is made in that direction and spool is then shifted to center.


----------



## 93green12v (Dec 5, 2016)

Jakers said:


> I would consider welding nuts or even little nipples on the pusher for traction to limit the slippage. when splitting uneven cut crotches and gnarly stuff the pieces will want to kick out or ride up. also maybe add some extensions to it so it pushes past the wedge by half inch or so. that really helps on the stringy stuff that requires full stroke. just friendly advice



I add some metal to the push plate for added traction and when I slide the 4 way wedge on it meets the push plate a lot tighter.

As far as a dead man I got nothing. It's an auto cycle valve so I have found it best to keep one hand on the valve when running it unless you are getting another piece of wood or you may loose some fingers. If you are working with another person they just keep the log lift loaded and the operator never leaves.


----------



## 93green12v (Aug 31, 2018)

Well its been quite some time since I posted anything but at around the 30 hr of operation of my splitter I had a major failure on my cylinder. Picture is worth it and ill leave it at that until I post a picture. So I need some help deciding how much money I want to toss at a new 5" x 24" cylinder. I have found a few but have 1/2' ports but when I look at the Prince cylinders 3/4 npt or -10 I believe. So are the small ports ever going to be an issue? I'm thinking yes but is it worth spending $200 plus more dollars?


----------



## 93green12v (Aug 31, 2018)

So here is the reason I need a new cylinder!!


----------



## muddstopper (Aug 31, 2018)

You dont need a new cyl, you need a new rod. And put some sort of strap around the cyl to keep it from bucking up and you wont have that problem again.


----------



## c5rulz (Aug 31, 2018)

93green12v said:


> Splitting some blue spruce I count down.





With an auto cycle valve, DON'T EVER WHAT YOU DID AT THE 32 SECOND MARK. 

I just bought a commercial splitter that has one. I made a commitment to myself to never reach once it has been activated.


----------



## 93green12v (Aug 31, 2018)

muddstopper said:


> You dont need a new cyl, you need a new rod. And put some sort of strap around the cyl to keep it from bucking up and you wont have that problem again.


Okay this is true I could fix the rod but what’s the cost of that? If I have to spend some money I’d rather improve than repair.

I need a bigger cylinder due to the fact that one gets stuck now and then on crothces and branch unions.


----------



## 93green12v (Aug 31, 2018)

c5rulz said:


> With an auto cycle valve, DON'T EVER WHAT YOU DID AT THE 32 SECOND MARK.
> 
> I just bought a commercial splitter that has one. I made a commitment to myself to never reach once it has been activated.


Well I have 9 3/4 of my fingers left, I get what you are saying. I was a lot more concerned running my friends TW-6 with a 6 way wedge than possibly getting pinched on mine. My wedge and push block have about an 1” of room for your fingers. Yes, I try to keep one hand on the levers at all times.


----------



## GM_Grimmy (Sep 1, 2018)

93green12v said:


> Okay this is true I could fix the rod but what’s the cost of that? If I have to spend some money I’d rather improve than repair.
> 
> I need a bigger cylinder due to the fact that one gets stuck now and then on crothces and branch unions.


You don't need a bigger cylinder, you need a better design so that that doesn't happen at all!! If you get stuff stuck, your wedge isn't designed right. Thinner is better.....to a point. 2300 psi is more than enough pressure on a 5" cylinder to split the nastiest of crotch pieces. If it gets stuck, make a chainsaw cut on it to weaken it and then split it. You don't need more tonnage, you need a better design!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## 93green12v (Sep 1, 2018)

GM_Grimmy said:


> You don't need a bigger cylinder, you need a better design so that that doesn't happen at all!! If you get stuff stuck, your wedge isn't designed right. Thinner is better.....to a point. 2300 psi is more than enough pressure on a 5" cylinder to split the nastiest of crotch pieces. If it gets stuck, make a chainsaw cut on it to weaken it and then split it. You don't need more tonnage, you need a better design!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I don’t have a 5” cylinder on there to start with it’s a 3.5” cylinder with a 36” stroke. I can watch the rod torque/bend when I would split wood with it....for my wedge design it’s just a 1/2” x12” steel tapered to a point.


----------



## triptester (Sep 1, 2018)

The problem could be from a combination of things. Too small of rod for the 36" stroke. Too much flex in the beam due to added stroke length.


----------



## muddstopper (Sep 2, 2018)

A 36in stroke? I missed that in the thread. I agree, that long of a stroke can cause bucking problems with your cyl. With the cyl extended thats over 6ft from end to end. I can only suspect as to what the problems are, a 3.5in bore cyl should split about anything except the nasiest of nasties croches.. Changeing out the 3.5 bore for a 5in one will give you a lot more tonnage, but it will also increase the chances of bending another rod. Going to a larger dia rod will help, but with that much flex, you will just wear out the rod seals with the side pressure as the cyl tries to buck up. Unless you really need to split 36in logs, I would look for a shorter cyl. I would also make a hoop to go around the cyl barrel on the rod end to help hold it down. I used to run a piece of equipment that had a 4in cyl with a 8ft stroke and 2in rod. If you hit anything extending the boom, it would make a bowtie out of the cyl rod. Cyl would cycle 13 times a min, you had to really watch what was in the way.


----------



## 93green12v (Sep 2, 2018)

In my first post I stated I wanted 5x24 cylinder to replaced this one. I understand I’ll be fabricating a bunch to make the new one fit.

What brand/company would you gents recommend and where and what price did you pay?

Sorry for some of the confusion.


----------



## muddstopper (Sep 2, 2018)

I bought my 5in cyl at Northern tool a few years ago. They had the best price at the time. I did find a few problems with the Northerntool brand. First thing was it had 3/4 ports, but the hose bungs where just welded over a 3/8 hole. I decided to disassemble the cyl to drill out the holes. When I tore the cyl down, I found it full of metal shavings. Those shaving would have totally destroyed my hyd system if I hadnt of found them first. I drilled out the ports to the largest size drill that would fit inside the thread of the pipe bung, washed the cyl out with brake clean and put it all back together. It has been working well now for several years. I split large dia wood with a 6way wedge.


----------



## Ryan'smilling (Sep 2, 2018)

Going from a 3.5" cylinder to a 5" is gonna slow things down pretty dramatically.


----------



## 93green12v (Sep 4, 2018)

Well pulled the trigger today bought a 5x24x2.5” cylinder from Splitez.
http://m.splitez.com/logsplitter_cylinders.htm

Done screwing around, more than I wanted to spend but I don’t want to ever have to think about it again....


Ryan'smilling said:


> Going from a 3.5" cylinder to a 5" is gonna slow things down pretty dramatically.


10 second cycle time I can live with. That'll out work me all day long.


----------



## 93green12v (Sep 9, 2018)

Another question for you guys. What thickness is your wedge? Planning on making a 4 way wedge and need to know how thin of material you guys have used and has held up.....Pictures would really help.


----------



## GM_Grimmy (Sep 9, 2018)

Main wedge, 1". 4 way, 3/4".............both AR400 steel.


----------



## muddstopper (Sep 9, 2018)

My main wedge is 3/4x9inchs deep and it is 24in tall. The 6way is 3/4 and each wing is 4in wide and 7 in long. just over 14 inches side to side. I havent bent them yet. The steel is T1 from a ballast (rock) plow.


----------



## 93green12v (Sep 13, 2018)

Finally got my new cylinder. Wow is this thing huge compared to my old one!


----------



## 4seasons (Sep 14, 2018)

93green12v said:


> View attachment 674747
> Finally got my new cylinder. Wow is this thing huge compared to my old one!


Don't forget to put some big U-bolts around the lower end of the cylinder so it doesn't do what your old one did.
Did you say you would have a 10 second cycle time with the new cylinder? How big of a pump are you running?

As for the wedge, mine is 1 inch wide with no flare. It acts like a knife on stringy wood like hickory. The only used of a wide flare on the wedge is to separate the wood faster so you don't have to use the whole stroke. With your fast cycle time and auto cycle valve there is no point of short cycling splits. I just let the next piece push it off the end into a pile, or a trailer.

Not to highjack your thread because I think you said something about a 4 way also, but I am planning on putting a 4way on mine also. But I am not sure if I should make a slip on to go over my current wedge, or add a bar behind the wedge for the 4 way to ride up and down on. I have concerns about strength if I run a rod behind the wedge although I have seen commercial machines use this design.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


----------



## 93green12v (Sep 14, 2018)

4seasons said:


> Don't forget to put some big U-bolts around the lower end of the cylinder so it doesn't do what your old one did.
> Did you say you would have a 10 second cycle time with the new cylinder? How big of a pump are you running?
> 
> As for the wedge, mine is 1 inch wide with no flare. It acts like a knife on stringy wood like hickory. The only used of a wide flare on the wedge is to separate the wood faster so you don't have to use the whole stroke. With your fast cycle time and auto cycle valve there is no point of short cycling splits. I just let the next piece push it off the end into a pile, or a trailer.
> ...


I am making one that the 4 way hides below the H beam and adjust with a small cylinder.

Pump is 22gpm.... my plan was to make a slip on like Timberwolf but I found it’s a pita to pull a heavy wedge off for knarly pieces or really big stuff. I’m sure I’m gonna find the next weak point in my splitter with this new cylinder.

Started removing everything that needs to go for the new cylinder and shortening of the beam. Going from a 36” stroke to 24” don’t need all the extra beam. I’ll have my steel next week to start fabing up.


----------



## kevin j (Sep 23, 2018)

5B instead of 3.5B is drastic force and bending increase.
I would add another beam under it. 
Boxing the sides helps a bit, but not as much as getting more depth to the beam.


----------



## 93green12v (Sep 30, 2018)

Well got everything plumbed and running. Time to start fabing up the wedge.


----------



## 93green12v (Jan 10, 2019)

Haven’t posted in a long while. Here is a video of my newest revised setup. 

As you can see the square tubing is being added after I bent the back stop. Not one of my smartest ideas to run it without reinforcing it a lot better.


----------



## cantoo (Jan 10, 2019)

Nice job and a nice high wedge. I have a bunch of pictures of my 36" with 4 way adjustable splitter on here. You can see how I did the back stop for mine if you search them.


----------



## 93green12v (Jan 10, 2019)

Do you have issues with your split wood getting stuck in that hay elevator?

I have one but seem to have the wood get stuck more often then not.


----------



## cantoo (Jan 11, 2019)

That one is actually a grain elevator so it has smaller paddles and more of them. I keep the belt real loose in case of log jambs but it seldom happens. I would weld in more paddles on a hay elevator.


----------

