# PICS of New Harness and Climbing Setup



## KingArbor (Feb 15, 2010)

Got tired of lugging around the trusty old Weaver 2D.. Invested in KOMET's Butterfly II Saddle and some new goodies from Sherrill..... I posted on ******** and have been getting alot of feedback on the ISC snap. Seems alot of people are having these open or "roll out" on them, anyone else experience this problem?

















Seems like this will be a nice step up from the traditional tail tied method I was using and heavy (but durable) Weaver saddle. The webbing on the lanyard took a good 15 minutes to work onto the rope, but I think it will be worth it in the long haul. I will probably cut off a longer length of Arbormaster for a longer lanyard (I typicaly only purchase 120ft and got the 150 this time with that in mind). The ART positioner is pricey but after much research it fit my needs perfectly, plus I like being able to make my own lanyards and changing them out to a longer length takes less than one minute. OMG the slack tender is so nice! Those who arent using a micro pulley should go out and buy one today.. New school ftw!


----------



## TreeWhitelock (Feb 15, 2010)

Very nice! the only thing is having the same rope for a flip line and climbin line can be confusing sometimes. Like if something were to happen someone had to rescue you makin sure they could tell the difference and not undo the wrong one and send you crashin to the ground. I see it when i do training for people. they get up there to perform aerial rescue and the person has the same rope for everything and you have to trace where it goes wasting precious time. But your setup is awesome. Have tried the Hitch climber pulley?


----------



## treeslayer (Feb 15, 2010)

very shiny and purty.....................:love1:

how much did all that set ya back?


----------



## RacerX (Feb 15, 2010)

The A.R.T. Positioner is great. Never knew how much so until I actually bought one. They're pricey so IMO they're a luxury item but well worth the cost. A slack tender pulley is the way to go. Used a Petzl Fixe for a long time until I upgraded. I've been using the Hitch Climber Pulley and really love the compact setup.


----------



## TreeWhitelock (Feb 15, 2010)

I've been using the Hitch Climber Pulley and really love the compact setup.[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]

:agree2: Thats the best thing since condoms. ha ha


----------



## KingArbor (Feb 15, 2010)

I keep hearing great reviews on the hitch climber.. is everyone using it as a tender or on the bridge itself? both? The Harness cost me like $290 I think (150% price crusher! thanks to Sherrill), tack on about another $400 or so for the other goodies and gadgets, also not pictured are a set of new Buckingham spurs! I understand the ropes could get confusing, but I like having color matched gear :/ I climb and work on my companies different colored 1/2" ropes, so the new line is for personal use and around the home pruning and rec use ... I store everything in a cheap duffle bag from Walmart to keep it looking fresh and safe. Thanks for the comments!


----------



## TreeWhitelock (Feb 15, 2010)

> KingArbor said:
> 
> 
> > I keep hearing great reviews on the hitch climber.. is everyone using it as a tender or on the bridge itself? both?
> ...


----------



## JeffL (Feb 16, 2010)

I tried one of those ISC snaps at a tradeshow a few weeks back, the gate is incredibly easy to open, and feels like it has a very light spring for tension, so takes little to no effort to open the gate completely, good luck!


----------



## fishercat (Feb 16, 2010)

*That is a great saddle.*

except for the bridge.Typical French let down.

I replaced mine with with a single eye beeline.I would love to find someone to make them in double eye in custom lengths.all the ones i find are too long.


----------



## voxac30dude (Feb 16, 2010)

Arbormaster BWR!!


----------



## RacerX (Feb 17, 2010)

This is no criticism of KingArbor's purchase but why would anyone buy a rope with a large spliced eye? Wouldn't a tight eye be more compact and therefore better? I only ask because I have the same size eye on a climbing line and I'm trying to figure out why.


----------



## tree MDS (Feb 17, 2010)

RacerX said:


> This is no criticism of KingArbor's purchase but why would anyone buy a rope with a large spliced eye? Wouldn't a tight eye be more compact and therefore better? I only ask because I have the same size eye on a climbing line and I'm trying to figure out why.



I think the larger spliced eye is supposed to be stronger (not positive though??). If you get sherrill's blue bandit (castrating tool) you can put the bands on yourself and have the best of both worlds (see KA's pic).


----------



## canopyboy (Feb 17, 2010)

I'm pretty sure the size of the eye doesn't effect the strength of the splice.

The only think I can figure on the larger eyes is that you can girth hitch it. I've seen several people girth hitch it to the biner. Snugs up nice and tight.


----------



## Bermie (Feb 17, 2010)

fishercat said:


> except for the bridge.Typical French let down.
> 
> I replaced mine with with a single eye beeline.I would love to find someone to make them in double eye in custom lengths.all the ones i find are too long.



Yeah I saw that...funny they changed to what looks like a piece of rope...my old B'fly 1 has the thick long strap bridge, and the replaceable one I bought in '05 is thinner strap with a chafe cover on it...wonder why they changed?


----------



## pdqdl (Feb 17, 2010)

fishercat said:


> except for the bridge.Typical French let down.
> 
> I replaced mine with with a single eye beeline.I would love to find someone to make them in double eye in custom lengths.all the ones i find are too long.



I'm not sure exactly what you are wanting. It sounds like you want a spliced eye bridge out of Beeline?

Here is why you can't find that: Most splices require the "bury" to be a certain length before it is considered safe. The double eye split tails that are commonly sold were formerly made with a locking brummel at the eyes, then the buried tails on a 30" prussic ran into each other inside the rope. (It takes a lot of extra slack in the rope to make enough expansion to allow the bury) Naturally, this was difficult to make, and it caused the rope to be a bit stiffer than desired. Shorter than 30" and the splices are not considered safe because there is not enough room to bury the tails properly.
Old style: http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Spliced-Rope-Tails/Prusik-Bee-Line-1105

The newer "grizzly spliced" tails don't apparently have that problem, since they don't rely on the buried tail for strength. Call Sherrill, they might make a custom one at a shorter length.

http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Spliced-Rope-Tails/Prusik-Bee-Line-1109

I don't know why you would want Beeline for a bridge. It's tough stuff, but pretty thin. There should not be any heat issues on a bridge, so why bother with heat resistant rope?


----------



## tree md (Feb 17, 2010)

Yeah, I was trying to figure out the beeline angle as well. And what you would need sliced eyes for on a bridge? I just make my rope bridge out of a length of safety blue that I cut off of the tail of my line. Works great!


----------



## KingArbor (Feb 18, 2010)

RacerX said:


> This is no criticism of KingArbor's purchase but why would anyone buy a rope with a large spliced eye? Wouldn't a tight eye be more compact and therefore better? I only ask because I have the same size eye on a climbing line and I'm trying to figure out why.




I agree, I wanted a tight eye splice, but they didnt offer it on the website. Ive seen it done on the AM before though... Next time around ill be sure to go that route.


----------



## tree md (Feb 18, 2010)

KingArbor said:


> I agree, I wanted a tight eye splice, but they didnt offer it on the website. Ive seen it done on the AM before though... Next time around ill be sure to go that route.



I was looking at the same thing on the Sherrill site. I prefer tight eyes as well. My rope is spliced tight with a regular spliced eye. I got it before they started doing the Grizzly splice. I believe you can request what type of splice you want and they will accommodate you.


----------



## pdqdl (Feb 18, 2010)

Somebody should buy one of those Grizzly splices and mail to Moray. I'll bet he would do a dandy "test to destruction" report on it. I would do it, but I am too poor. That, and I will never make my own grizzley splice, so how strong they are is not really important to me.

Moray seems to like tearing ropes in half.


----------



## fishercat (Feb 18, 2010)

*you are right.it is small.*



pdqdl said:


> I'm not sure exactly what you are wanting. It sounds like you want a spliced eye bridge out of Beeline?
> 
> Here is why you can't find that: Most splices require the "bury" to be a certain length before it is considered safe. The double eye split tails that are commonly sold were formerly made with a locking brummel at the eyes, then the buried tails on a 30" prussic ran into each other inside the rope. (It takes a lot of extra slack in the rope to make enough expansion to allow the bury) Naturally, this was difficult to make, and it caused the rope to be a bit stiffer than desired. Shorter than 30" and the splices are not considered safe because there is not enough room to bury the tails properly.
> Old style: http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Spliced-Rope-Tails/Prusik-Bee-Line-1105
> ...



but it is why i like it.takes up less room.I am hesitant to climb much on it,It doesn't have to be Beeline but it needs to be compact in the Eye area.I may just get the Ergovation and be done with it.It's a shame because I really like the saddle but the bridge options are frustrating.


----------



## fishercat (Feb 18, 2010)

*I tried that too.*



tree md said:


> Yeah, I was trying to figure out the beeline angle as well. And what you would need sliced eyes for on a bridge? I just make my rope bridge out of a length of safety blue that I cut off of the tail of my line. Works great!



the knots take up too much room and I find it annoying.


----------



## pdqdl (Feb 18, 2010)

Beeline knots down with a scaffold knot pretty small. A carabiner or screw link will take more space than a double scaffold. Triple is barely more space, but offers better confidence in safety.


----------



## treefaller25 (Feb 27, 2011)

KingArbor said:


> Got tired of lugging around the trusty old Weaver 2D.. Invested in KOMET's Butterfly II Saddle and some new goodies from Sherrill..... I posted on ******** and have been getting alot of feedback on the ISC snap. Seems alot of people are having these open or "roll out" on them, anyone else experience this problem?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 I have been using ISC snaps like them alot no problems yet with them.I use a 2in1 laynard and color coded them grey on one side black on the other.Helps eliminate confussion.


----------



## John Paul Sanborn (Feb 27, 2011)

I just hate big clunky snaps. I use a small captive eye carabiner on my 18 ft flipline.


----------



## KingArbor (Feb 27, 2011)

I just like the way this snap feels in my hand. Nice action and smooth operation. To each his own tho


----------



## Nailsbeats (Feb 27, 2011)

To the original poster, nice setup, climb on a B-fly myself and haven't had any issues with it or reason to switch to anything else, including my bro's ergovation.

To those with b-fly bridge isues, I run the original bridge with a second bridge made of 1/2 hi-vi ran through the shackles and double fish stopper knots tied on both ends. You have two bridges if you want to double crotch using two climbing lines or whatever and you can tie into both for extra security. 

I also use that same snap to terminate my flipline, and haven't had any issues.

About the Art flipline cam, I haven't used that exact one but have a Spiderjack and have used other cam flipline adjusters and prefer a prussic knot variation due to the fact that they don't allow the flipline to adjust on it's own while it is hanging slack. I guess "backtending" is what I would call it. 

As far as the saw lanyard, I use a break away bungee but with a ring and locking biner instead of that dogsnap. I wouldn't trust that to keep my saw hanging for a full removal. I used to have a screw locking biner but lost my saw twice to it and have since switched to a triple lock and haven't had any problems.

Good luck and money well spent.


----------

