# Splitter build Beam Size????



## bearings (Dec 13, 2009)

I called the steel supply outfit today and they said they usually sell 8x8 H beam with a 30lbs rating. After i took alook at some it seams a bit big. I measured up a splitter that i have access to and it has a 4x4 H beam with a plate on the top. That 4x4 splitter has been in the family for over 30 years. I am planning to build my own Hor. splitter with a 4in 30 stroke cyl. I also will be using a 10 hp briggs and a 16gal min pump. What are your splitter beam size???????? I hate to go to big!


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## builder1101 (Dec 13, 2009)

i bowed sideways and twisted a 8x8 I beam with a 4" @ 3500PSI....and the ram guide severly pushed one side down and pulled the other side up...

a gnarly peice of oak it was...and won the battle.... with a single wedge 

made another with a piece of 14" H beam, built the ram guide to 'box' the frame, not just the top lip, along with some C channel welded full lenght on both sides of the webbing.., and upped to a 6" bore.

that gnarly peice of twisted oak, split like butter with a 6 way  

from my experience, it's easier just to build it a bit more then needed, that way you know your not going to ruin costly material (and waste costly time), on top of time and money to build it again....


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## Suz (Dec 13, 2009)

bearings said:


> I called the steel supply outfit today and they said they usually sell 8x8 H beam with a 30lbs rating. After i took alook at some it seams a bit big. I measured up a splitter that i have access to and it has a 4x4 H beam with a plate on the top. That 4x4 splitter has been in the family for over 30 years. I am planning to build my own Hor. splitter with a 4in 30 stroke cyl. I also will be using a 10 hp briggs and a 16gal min pump. What are your splitter beam size???????? I hate to go to big!



My first splitter had a 4 x 10 "I" beam and that would twist and bend even with bracing.
When I built my second and third splitter, I used a 8 x 8 H beam and have had no problems with any bending. 

PM sent.


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## mga (Dec 13, 2009)

i use an 8x8 H beam and nothing has done any damage to it....no matter what i have split. my cylinder is a 5 x 24" x 2" and my wedge is only 8".

see it here.....

http://s89.photobucket.com/albums/k228/mga_01/log splitter/?action=view&current=DSCF0205.jpg

design your slide right and you shouldn't have any problems.


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## biggenius29 (Dec 13, 2009)

bearings said:


> I hate to go to big!





No such thing.

Mine is a 8"x8" beam. I would hate to have spent all the time in making a splitter and go small on the beam and have it bend on you. Then you pretty much have to start from the ground up.

BTW, buying a brand new beam is not going to be cheap. I would look at a scrap yard for one. Or get buizy on the phone and call construction companys or metal fab shops to see if they have anything laying out back.


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## triptester (Dec 13, 2009)

Whether the beam is 6x6 or 8x8 is not the the most important factor . The weight or the thickness of the web sections are what is important. As length or width increases the thickness of the material must increase to retain strength unless extra support is added. If you take 2 boards of the same thickness 1 short and 1 long the longer board will bend or break easier.

Timberwolf is considered one of the best splitters yet on their TW P1 and TW HV2 splitters they use only a 5x5 beam. The TW 5 and TW 6 splitters they use a 6.5" beam . Using the proper thickness of material is more important than its with and depth. 

Other factors that may cause the beam to bend are the length and thickness of the slide and height of cylinder above the beam.


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## SWI Don (Dec 13, 2009)

W8x31 beam has a .465" thick flange. It should be fine with a 4" cylinder, a 5" cylinder may overload it depending on wedge or foot height.

Here is a thread where I spell out a way to determine beam size needed for W-beams.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=114821

If you want a better resistance to twisting, cap the ends of your beam. 

FYI most all of the Northern Splitters use a W6x25# beam. I think that is awfully light for a 37 ton splitter! They are apparently assuming very square cut logs with minimal taper. Put a big old tapered butt section on there where you can only get a bite with the end of your foot and you will have a new shape to your beam. 

I have a W8x48 and it is stable with a 12" tall wedge and 30 tons of force.

I have a friend with a 16 ton unit with a W12x26 and 8" tall wedge and gets to twisting when you put it to the limit.

Don.


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## mga (Dec 13, 2009)

SWI Don said:


> W8x31 beam has a .465" thick flange. It should be fine with a 4" cylinder, a 5" cylinder may overload it depending on wedge or foot height.
> 
> Here is a thread where I spell out a way to determine beam size needed for W-beams.
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=114821
> ...



then, he hasn't "capped" the end of it?


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## bearings (Dec 13, 2009)

Thank you for all the replys! I am going to look into a 6x6 heavy H Beam. I could cap the ends and add some braces near the wedge. I want to check out the price! I am worried that i am going to build a splitter that i will not be able to move. The 8x8 30lb beam new is $19.75 foot. I have a used one spotted also for around $14 foot. (dont ask the local scrap yard is CRAZY priced). Options options options. I am going to build a splitter like the timber wolf tw1. I also have used this splitter with a 4x4 beam before but the wheels are on the very back so you have to lift the whole beam everytime you lift it. On my build i am going to move the axle forwards.


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## SWI Don (Dec 13, 2009)

mga said:


> then, he hasn't "capped" the end of it?



No it is capped. His issue is the beam is too skinny. It is not strong enough in the transverse direction. As you put a moment on a beam the bottom flange wants to start to kick to one side or the other. In a structure you can tie the beams together to keep the bottom flange from kicking out. On a splitter you generally only have one beam, so you have to have one that can support on its own.

A good rule of thumb is to use a beam that is "square" in dimensions 6 x 6, 8x8 or 10 x10. 

Don


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## bearings (Dec 14, 2009)

*Great Beam find !*

Well i got a great deal on my splittler beam. Called a local guy that demos old buildings. I picked up an 8x8 H beam With a 7/16 lip and it is 7 foot long. I had to give him $50. Wow What a Great deal!!! I will try and start a thread with the new splitter build as soon as i get started. Now just a few more parts.


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## MNBobcat (Dec 29, 2012)

builder1101 said:


> i bowed sideways and twisted a 8x8 I beam with a 4" @ 3500PSI....and the ram guide severly pushed one side down and pulled the other side up...
> 
> a gnarly peice of oak it was...and won the battle.... with a single wedge
> 
> ...



I know this is an old post. Hoping you're still around. Do you have a photo of how you boxed the frame with the ram guide?


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