# Echo CS-2511T



## 2Strokn (Dec 13, 2017)

As many of you know, Echo recently released the CS-2511T. This is the lightest top handle saw you can buy. I am a die-hard Stihl guy, but when this came out, I had to have one. Let me tell you, I'm not disappointed! This saw is great for everything but the largest removals. It weighs 5 lbs and runs like a banshee. It will not have the power of a 201T, but I will tell you that it far exceeded my expectations and the power is very respectable. It's 25CCs. It runs like a bigger saw.

One of the big selling points of this saw for me (over something like a MS150T) is that it uses a .050 chain. You can put a 12 or 14 inch bar on it. I ordered mine with the 12", but I truly believe it would run a 14 just fine. The first thing I did when I got it is what many of you would do.....I did a muffler mod and carb retune. This thing screams now!

Bottom line: It's tiny. You've never used a chainsaw this small. Not even close. It's light....5 lbs. And it screams for its size. You can bury the 12" bar and it just keeps cutting. For $350 you can't go wrong. Get one. I predict it will be your most used top handle saw. I know mine is now.


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## cre73 (Dec 13, 2017)

Will have to keep this in mind if my 341 ever dies, Can't justify two top handles for the little bit that I cut with them. But I love my 341.


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## Brian72 (Dec 13, 2017)

Thanks for the review. That saw has my attention.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


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## 2Strokn (Dec 13, 2017)

Brian72 said:


> Thanks for the review. That saw has my attention.
> 
> Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


I believe it will become a staple of arborists. As much as I'm a Stihl fan, it beats the hell out of the MS150t and its goofy little 1/4 pitch chain. Echo doesn't publish their HP numbers, but I would guess it has very impressive numbers for a 25cc saw.

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## CR888 (Dec 13, 2017)

Since the CS2510t was released its been Echo's best product for the professional market. Despite plastic oil tank that can crack when dropped it so light it won't hit the ground too hard. I have 2 x Makita 231t (Yamabiko Corp.)which were THE lightest gas powered saws sold today. But I think the new Echo is lighter, besides the 23cc makitas rev to 11k producing 0.7kw & the new echo revs much higher with around 1kw+ power. FWIW O50 chain can be put on any saw despite what it is sold with. My 201 and 150 both have 3/8 050 chain on 10"/14" reduced weight light bars.


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## 2Strokn (Dec 13, 2017)

CR888 said:


> Since the CS2510t was released its been Echo's best product for the professional market. Despite plastic oil tank that can crack when dropped it so light it won't hit the ground too hard. I have 2 x Makita 231t (Yamabiko Corp.)which were THE lightest gas powered saws sold today. But I think the new Echo is lighter, besides the 23cc makitas rev to 11k producing 0.7kw & the new echo revs much higher with around 1kw+ power. FWIW O50 chain can be put on any saw despite what it is sold with. My 201 and 150 both have 3/8 050 chain on 10"/14" reduced weight light bars.



Did the 3/8-.050 chain turn your 150 into a dog?

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## Brian72 (Dec 13, 2017)

I just got a 355t not long ago. Really like it. The weight savings of this saw make it very appealing. I've always had nothing but praise for my echo equipment. Very good stuff.

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## 2Strokn (Dec 13, 2017)

Brian72 said:


> I just got a 355t not long ago. Really like it. The weight savings of this saw make it very appealing. I've always had nothing but praise for my echo equipment. Very good stuff.
> 
> Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


I think Echo is on their way (actually probably already there) to being a serious threat to Stihl sales on arborist saws.

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## Brian72 (Dec 13, 2017)

2Strokn said:


> I think Echo is on their way (actually probably already there) to being a serious threat to Stihl sales on arborist saws.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


I've got 4 saws, hedge trimmer and string trimmer/blower. All have been flawless. Prices are reasonable too. I own all brands and they've all treated me well. 

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


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## matemike (Dec 13, 2017)

I totally want this saw. It's penny for penny the same price as a Stihl MS 193 T.
I'm torn between the two, mostly because so many folks around me are saying there is no other brand of saw; "get the stihl and don't look back."
If the Stihl MS 150 T was in the price range it would probably be the front runner, but the $600 price tag and 1/4" chain aren't cutting it.

That Echo CS2511T seems to check all the boxes: sub $400, good power, 3/8 chain, light weight, purge bulb, I don't think it has a metal bumper spike though. I just need to see another thread or two like this and I'll lean toward the tiny echo. Thanks for the review.

I currently have a borrowed MS 201 T and a CS 330 T on hand for trying out. Both run extremely well but are just a tad too big for my liking. 

BTW my main uses will be trimming and pruning very small garden trees and palm trees and I'm an echo guy I guess. I've had a weed eater for over a decade now and it has never let me down. I've been able to tinker with it here and there and all in all I've been quite happpy with it.


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## 2Strokn (Dec 13, 2017)

matemike said:


> I totally want this saw. It's penny for penny the same price as a Stihl MS 193 T.
> I'm torn between the two, mostly because so many folks around me are saying there is no other brand of saw; "get the stihl and don't look back."
> If the Stihl MS 150 T was in the price range it would probably be the front runner, but the $600 price tag and 1/4" chain aren't cutting it.
> 
> ...


The bumper spike is available. You must to order it. Same as I had to do for my 193t. 

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## Rio95 (Dec 14, 2017)

2Strokn said:


> Echo doesn't publish their HP numbers, but I would guess it has very impressive numbers for a 25cc saw



http://www.echotools.com/products/category/contents_type=26 Echo power numbers are here - 1.5hp compared to 1.3 for an ms150T


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## Brian72 (Dec 14, 2017)

matemike said:


> I totally want this saw. It's penny for penny the same price as a Stihl MS 193 T.
> I'm torn between the two, mostly because so many folks around me are saying there is no other brand of saw; "get the stihl and don't look back."
> If the Stihl MS 150 T was in the price range it would probably be the front runner, but the $600 price tag and 1/4" chain aren't cutting it.
> 
> ...


I'm certainly not bashing Stihl but you say weight is important. The 193 is almost as heavy as the 201. Get the Echo and don't look back.

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## greengreer (Dec 14, 2017)

Glad you like the 3/8 on the echo, I wish they sold it here with 1/4" as an option as they do across the pond. It's definitely my next saw. I've been eyeing a 150t for a few years but never could justify the price. Looking at the t536lixp and I love the battery saw features but its practically the same size as my t540, so a bit redundant there.
The 2511 hits the nail on the head in size, power, and cost. Now someone just make a saw that size in a battery model and I'll really be pleased.


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## Robin Wood (Dec 14, 2017)

wonder why they supply with 3/8ths over there when it 1/4 everywhere else.
for that power rating thats all i want, sounds like OP described how exactly everyones been saying


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## matemike (Dec 14, 2017)

Brian72 said:


> I'm certainly not bashing Stihl but you say weight is important. The 193 is almost as heavy as the 201. Get the Echo and don't look back.
> 
> Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk



True, only a 14oz (so not even a full pound) difference in weight. I am a fan of the more forward, vertical support handle on the CS 355 T and Stihls T handles. The small Echos have a diagonal support handle. I'll just have to check it out on person to see if it's a deal breaker. Shouldn't be.


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## RedneckChainsawRepair (Dec 14, 2017)

Have some info from a thread I'll share here. Havent heard a bad word about the little echo yet.
https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/echo/echo-cs-2511t/
Paper specs

CS-2511TES
Engine displacement (cm3)
25.0
Output (kW / ps)
1.10 / 1.50
Dry weight (kg)
2.3 = 5.07063lbs

MS 150 T C-E Specifications - Professional In-Tree Use Only
DISPLACEMENT 23.6 cc (1.44 cu. in.)
ENGINE POWER 1.0 kW (1.34 bhp)
POWERHEAD WEIGHT 2.6 kg (5.7 lbs)



bigger brother 271 Engine Displacement (cu in) 26.9 Oil Capacity (fl oz) 5.4
Engine Displacement (cu in) 1.64 Dry Weight (lbs) 6.6


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## 2Strokn (Dec 14, 2017)

JeremiahJohnson said:


> Have some info from a thread I'll share here. Havent heard a bad word about the little echo yet.
> https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/echo/echo-cs-2511t/
> Paper specs
> 
> ...


What is the 2511TES? Is that the European version? Does the American version have the same specs?

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## Brian72 (Dec 14, 2017)

matemike said:


> True, only a 14oz (so not even a full pound) difference in weight. I am a fan of the more forward, vertical support handle on the CS 355 T and Stihls T handles. The small Echos have a diagonal support handle. I'll just have to check it out on person to see if it's a deal breaker. Shouldn't be.


I don't have a whole lot of experience with top handles but I could see how the handle angled back could actually be beneficial. Could make it easier to get both hands on the saw when stretching to make a cut. I really like my 355t but I think I'll be adding a 251 also for less weight.

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## Jazzr69 (Jan 4, 2018)

2Strokn said:


> As many of you know, Echo recently released the CS-2511T. This is the lightest top handle saw you can buy. I am a die-hard Stihl guy, but when this came out, I had to have one. Let me tell you, I'm not disappointed! This saw is great for everything but the largest removals. It weighs 5 lbs and runs like a banshee. It will not have the power of a 201T, but I will tell you that it far exceeded my expectations and the power is very respectable. It's 25CCs. It runs like a bigger saw.
> 
> One of the big selling points of this saw for me (over something like a MS150T) is that it uses a .050 chain. You can put a 12 or 14 inch bar on it. I ordered mine with the 12", but I truly believe it would run a 14 just fine. The first thing I did when I got it is what many of you would do.....I did a muffler mod and carb retune. This thing screams now!
> 
> Bottom line: It's tiny. You've never used a chainsaw this small. Not even close. It's light....5 lbs. And it screams for its size. You can bury the 12" bar and it just keeps cutting. For $350 you can't go wrong. Get one. I predict it will be your most used top handle saw. I know mine is now.




2Strokn, I just picked up one of these and am wondering how you approached your muffler mod? It feels heavy like there is a catalyst hiding in there but I can't see it from the entry or exit way. Did you separate the muffler and if so do you just torch that solder/brazing until it liquefies and then pry up the tabs? 

Any guidance and/or pics would be appreciated. I've done muff mods before but never had to open the case up all the way.


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## 2Strokn (Jan 4, 2018)

Jazzr69 said:


> 2Strokn, I just picked up one of these and am wondering how you approached your muffler mod? It feels heavy like there is a catalyst hiding in there but I can't see it from the entry or exit way. Did you separate the muffler and if so do you just torch that solder/brazing until it liquefies and then pry up the tabs?
> 
> Any guidance and/or pics would be appreciated. I've done muff mods before but never had to open the case up all the way.


I actually didn't even remove the muffler from the saw. I held the saw so that the muffler was upside down (so any metal chips would fall out as I drilled). I then drilled two 3/16" holes in the flat spot that looks like the natural place to drill. I did hit another layer of metal about 1/4" inside and drilled through that as well. Not sure if it was a baffle or catalyst. Then I removed the carb limiters and tuned to match.

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## stubnail67 (Feb 3, 2018)

i will be happy when some one opens a muffler up and takes some pics to see whats in there.... i paid to much to just drill a hole....I have to say i am happy with it as is..i removed the limiters and tuned it a lil rich for break in period.... but for its size im fine with it as is.....but if some one can get the muffler apart i would love to know how... i dont weld so.....this thing has lil tack welds all over....


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## MS460WOODCHUCK (Feb 4, 2018)

2Strokn said:


> I actually didn't even remove the muffler from the saw. I held the saw so that the muffler was upside down (so any metal chips would fall out as I drilled). I then drilled two 3/16" holes in the flat spot that looks like the natural place to drill. I did hit another layer of metal about 1/4" inside and drilled through that as well. Not sure if it was a baffle or catalyst. Then I removed the carb limiters and tuned to match.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk



Are you serious? You drilled out the muffler while it was on the saw and didn't separate it to get the shavings out of the inside?


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## 2Strokn (Feb 4, 2018)

MS460WOODCHUCK said:


> Are you serious? You drilled out the muffler while it was on the saw and didn't separate it to get the shavings out of the inside?


Yep. And guess what...it still runs.


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## Ketchup (Feb 4, 2018)

I bought a ms150t off Craigslist for $200 early this fall. It was my first ultralight trim saw and I fell in love. After 4 months of hard use it will die when I drop the throttle too fast, especially when the fuel is low. Mostly it is fantastic though. I like the micro b&c. It cuts very smooth though the chains don't last long.
Well, now there are 3 of us fighting for this saw every morning, so maybe it's time for an Echo...
You guys are selling it pretty well.
We were holding out for the Stihl Battery saws to become available, but I think Stihl is afraid they will kill their 193 sales if they bring it out. We're sick of waiting. The husky e-saw seems nice, but heavy. The e-saws are twice the price of an echo 251t. Anybody running both? Got a favorite?


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## MS460WOODCHUCK (Feb 4, 2018)

2Strokn said:


> Yep. And guess what...it still runs.



I am sure it does. Pull the muffler and take a peak after a few seaons if it's still running...


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## 2Strokn (Feb 4, 2018)

MS460WOODCHUCK said:


> I am sure it does. Pull the muffler and take a peak after a few seaons if it's still running...


I will and I'll send you a picture, Cupcake.


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## fordf150 (Feb 5, 2018)

had a conversation with my rep and he passed the info up the chain that we want a 1/4" sprocket added as an option. not sure if they listened but i tried.


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## coltree (Mar 11, 2018)

fordf150 said:


> had a conversation with my rep and he passed the info up the chain that we want a 1/4" sprocket added as an option. not sure if they listened but i tried.



X2 on 1/4" sprocket, but can they do that since they don't sell that chain? Is there an aftermarket sprocket?


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## fordf150 (Mar 11, 2018)

I have a 1/4" sprocket in my hand as well as a few chains, just waiting on a bar


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## r0ck1r0ck2 (Mar 17, 2018)

fordf150 said:


> I have a 1/4" sprocket in my hand as well as a few chains, just waiting on a bar



Please elaborate...


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## Ketchup (Mar 22, 2018)

We just got one of these at work. Yesterday was my first day running it. 
My first impressions were that the bar and chain aren't as useful as a smaller curf bar would be, but it has plenty of power to pull the bigger chain. Even stock it is powerful, maybe more than a 193. It guzzles gas, but I idle a lot. The fuel and oil caps are difficult to open. The choke is on the opposite side compared to a 150t, and the lever can get pushed by clothing or saddle accessories. The oiler is pretty high flow. More than the 150t. Currently it's a little hard to start. There's a trick to feathering the trigger as you pull.
So the bad are the caps, and the bar. The Good is the power and the feather weight. Echo is going to eat Stihl's lunch on this one. This thing is better and cheaper than a 150t and lighter than a 193t with the same or more power. 
Please keep us updated if anyone has a source for those 1/4 sprockets. With the right bar, this saw will be everyone's favorite.


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## fordf150 (Mar 22, 2018)

@Ketchup recoil handle is made to fit the fuel/oil caps to aid in loosening them


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## 2Strokn (Mar 22, 2018)

I don't find mine quite as powerful as my 193 (both are muffler modded). But the weight makes up for it. 90% of the time I'm grabbing for the 2511 due to the weight. The fuel caps can be removed with the starter handle or a scrench turned sideways.


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## fordf150 (Mar 22, 2018)




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## RandyinTN (Mar 24, 2018)

Went to pick up my new 361 with 14 inch bar and dealer suggested I look at the 2511T on the shelf. Man that saw is sweet! Could easily one hand it while cutting. Did not seem difficult to hold it with both hands. Most likely I will own one within a year unless something better appears on the market.


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## fordf150 (Mar 24, 2018)

RandyinTN said:


> Went to pick up my new 361 with 14 inch bar and dealer suggested I look at the 2511T on the shelf. Man that saw is sweet! Could easily one hand it while cutting. Did not seem difficult to hold it with both hands. Most likely I will own one within a year unless something better appears on the market.


I cant believe they have one on the shelf, they have been on backorder since january and just called yesterday to see if they had an ETA....end of april...maybe.


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## RandyinTN (Mar 24, 2018)

Dickens Turf and Landscape
Knoxville, TN

Today was their annual 1 day Echo sale. Maybe that is why they had one on the shelf. Wife was actually pushing me to buy it because it was so small and light she wants to try it.


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## Ketchup (Mar 24, 2018)

Thanks for the heads up on the pull start cap tool.

Where did you get that 1/4" drum sprocket? Dealer?


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## stubnail67 (Mar 24, 2018)

I went to my echo dealer today not one 2511t... but i have one... so they had one 271t left i told them not to fuel it or touch it...no gas or oil in the back of the wife's suburban....it came home for 256 out the door.... not as light as the 2511t.... but av is a lil stiffer and it seemed spot on on the tune with the limiters on.... this was of course out of wood but its not a bad saw....at all... for 256 brand new out the door im happy... see how it filters palm tree fines soon....


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## stubnail67 (Mar 24, 2018)

They said they were all on back order 2511t ...... like i said the cs271t runs good have not cut with her yet.....no mods nothing.... but it felt decent and at that price im cool.....I will snap some pics soon.Oh and a free hat also 14 bucks free....


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## TimberMcPherson (Mar 25, 2018)

I have been running my little 2511 for 10 months, every day a pleasure running the little sucker, its been solid like my 260t has been for the last 9 years (you know the ms150 that echo made a decade before the stihl and few noticed)


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## Cope1024 (Mar 25, 2018)

stubnail67 said:


> I went to my echo dealer today not one 2511t... but i have one... so they had one 271t left i told them not to fuel it or touch it...no gas or oil in the back of the wife's suburban....it came home for 256 out the door.... not as light as the 2511t.... but av is a lil stiffer and it seemed spot on on the tune with the limiters on.... this was of course out of wood but its not a bad saw....at all... for 256 brand new out the door im happy... see how it filters palm tree fines soon....


 I looked online last night at Home Depot. They indicated they're in stock for delivery to store, but this morning they are out of stock too.


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## stubnail67 (Mar 25, 2018)

TimberMcPherson said:


> I have been running my little 2511 for 10 months, every day a pleasure running the little sucker, its been solid like my 260t has been for the last 9 years (you know the ms150 that echo made a decade before the stihl and few noticed)


we saw them but they were not in the states yet....they just arrived at the end of 2017.... and are in short supply as oppesed to the ms150t..... their were 4 guys in there the 15 minutes looking for them..... echo underestimated the demand here....


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## stubnail67 (Mar 25, 2018)

everyone was wanting that 20 percent off....the guy told me he would have a bunch in guess he hit the wall to....i saved 60 bux and that lil 271t seems pretty well built....just a wee bit heavier....I now have the cs 355t cs 330t cs271t and the cs2511t....for my echo top handles....the cs 355t and the 2511t are race horses.... the 330t and the 271t are my back ups....


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## Cope1024 (Mar 25, 2018)

stubnail67 said:


> everyone was wanting that 20 percent off....the guy told me he would have a bunch in guess he hit the wall to....i saved 60 bux and that lil 271t seems pretty well built....just a wee bit heavier....I now have the cs 355t cs 330t cs271t and the cs2511t....for my echo top handles....the cs 355t and the 2511t are race horses.... the 330t and the 271t are my back ups....



How does the CS2511t compare to the CS355t? I know it's smaller, but a newer engine design?


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## fordf150 (Mar 25, 2018)

Cope1024 said:


> How does the CS2511t compare to the CS355t? I know it's smaller, but a newer engine design?




2511 is all new design. 

designed for 2 different things and so different that a comparison isnt really doable. 25cc and 5lb compared to 36cc and 8+lb


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## stubnail67 (Mar 25, 2018)

I like both ....the cs 355 would be my pick for over all build quality you can do it all with it.....but the smaller one is enjoyble to use at 50 i find i like the lil one and will use it to its limits....like to de branch a tree... then drop it with the cs 355t....if i wanted to trim a palm i would use the 2511t.... if i was going to drop it i would use the 355t....if you can afford both they are well worth buying....I like to have a back up for everything so my cs 330t is my cs 355t back up... the cs271t is my back up for my 2511t.....


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## Rybot (Mar 25, 2018)

Love my saws. 

2511t - 10", 1/4 pitch
355t - 14"
501p - 18" 

Saving this season for a 620pw with a 24". Should cover most of my needs. 

Sorry for the crappy photo


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## stubnail67 (Mar 25, 2018)

Here are all my echo top handles...


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## Rybot (Mar 25, 2018)

Nice collection stubnail! Those GB bars are something else.

I bought a 355t bumper spike for my 2511, last thing I want is to Crack the case when I'm digging in!


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## James Miller (Mar 26, 2018)

When I picked up my 355t I asked about the 2511 he said he ordered 2 but there on back order that was about a month ago. Guess I'll be waiting awhile longer till I get to handle one the way it sounds.


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## Rybot (Mar 27, 2018)

My 2511t is the Euro model - I ordered it after asking Echo Canada if they had plans to release the saw here - they said "NO"!

I'm happy I have it, but I wish they just told me the truth. I could have saved some money!

I personally feel a 10" bar is ideal. The 12-14" they push here is a bit long IMO.


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## r0ck1r0ck2 (Apr 1, 2018)

fordf150 said:


> View attachment 641252



So did you get this mounted on the 2511t?

Pretty curious as the 1/4 .043 stihl chain and sprocket only comes as green safety


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## fordf150 (Apr 2, 2018)

If anyone is looking for a 2511, customer of mine is selling the one he just bought. Comes with the stock bar and 3 chains plus an extra 12" 3/8lp .043 bar with 3 extra chains. $350 plus shipping. 




r0ck1r0ck2 said:


> So did you get this mounted on the 2511t?
> 
> Pretty curious as the 1/4 .043 stihl chain and sprocket only comes as green safety



Yep it was mounted.... On the above saw actually, guy loves it and it is definitely smoother.


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## Cope1024 (Apr 2, 2018)

I got a chance to hold a CS2511T last Friday at a dealership. This saw is tiny!


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## r0ck1r0ck2 (Apr 2, 2018)

fordf150 said:


> If anyone is looking for a 2511, customer of mine is selling the one he just bought. Comes with the stock bar and 3 chains plus an extra 12" 3/8lp .043 bar with 3 extra chains. $350 plus shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Cool.
Oregon sprocket right?
Which chain did you use for the 1/4”
Do you know the part no.?


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## greengreer (Apr 2, 2018)

Last I checked the sprocket drum is only available overseas. I think chainsaw bars uk has them and will ship here. Word on the street is echo is going to be making the saw available with the 1/4p setup in the US before long.


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## fordf150 (Apr 2, 2018)

25ap oregon chain is what i used


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## KenJax Tree (Apr 8, 2018)

fordf150 said:


> If anyone is looking for a 2511, customer of mine is selling the one he just bought. Comes with the stock bar and 3 chains plus an extra 12" 3/8lp .043 bar with 3 extra chains. $350 plus shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Is the stock bar .050? 14" or 12"?


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## 2Strokn (Apr 8, 2018)

KenJax Tree said:


> Is the stock bar .050?


Yes.


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## r0ck1r0ck2 (Apr 8, 2018)

greengreer said:


> Last I checked the sprocket drum is only available overseas. I think chainsaw bars uk has them and will ship here. Word on the street is echo is going to be making the saw available with the 1/4p setup in the US before long.




What street exactly.
I’d like to have a little walk down that bugger.

I thank you.


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## KenJax Tree (Apr 8, 2018)

Nate let me know if your customer still has the saw I am interested in it


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## KenJax Tree (Apr 11, 2018)

I got my saw today. Went to the dealer yesterday and they said they sold the 4 they had and they're backordered for another month. I checked the Home Depot website and they were available to ship so I ordered one. It was delivered today less than 24 hours after i ordered it.


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## KenJax Tree (Apr 19, 2018)

This thing is awesome with the Stihl 12" .043 b&c


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## r0ck1r0ck2 (Apr 19, 2018)

KenJax Tree said:


> This thing is awesome with the Stihl 12" .043 b&c



Right on!
3/8P or 1/4”?
Did you swap the sprocket?


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## KenJax Tree (Apr 19, 2018)

r0ck1r0ck2 said:


> Right on!
> 3/8P or 1/4”?
> Did you swap the sprocket?



3/8lp....the 1/4" sprocket isn't available in the US. I can get one from the UK but it would be about $75. I'm happy with the 3/8lp set up. As soon as the deflector gets here its gonna breathe a little better too.


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## chipper1 (Jul 30, 2018)

KenJax Tree said:


> 3/8lp....the 1/4" sprocket isn't available in the US. I can get one from the UK but it would be about $75. I'm happy with the 3/8lp set up. As soon as the deflector gets here its gonna breathe a little better too.


What deflector neighbor(exhaust)?
Did you get it .
I'm still looking at getting one of these little guys. I've had them in my hands and piss revved a bit, but not in wood yet .


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## hseII (Jul 30, 2018)

If like to see a comparison between the 2511T & the 271T.


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## chipper1 (Jul 30, 2018)

hseII said:


> If like to see a comparison between the 2511T & the 271T.


From what I've seen/read(most all the same chat you've read on the other forums as well as here), fines in carb on the 2511 are the biggest issue and guys not liking the stock chain, seem to be a great saw other than those.
Guessing a little power, but for the intended use of them I would choose the 2511.
Just buy one and then you can do the video and the longevity review .


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## hseII (Jul 30, 2018)

chipper1 said:


> From what I've seen/read(most all the same chat you've read on the other forums as well as here), fines in carb on the 2511 are the biggest issue and guys not liking the stock chain, seem to be a great saw other than those.
> Guessing a little power, but for the intended use of them I would choose the 2511.
> Just buy one and then you can do the video and the longevity review .



Ive had my hands on a 2511 but have not seen a 271.

The 2511T almost Pocket size & would do well on my saddle for those smaller jobs.

If the 271T was on the same frame but just a little more however...


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## chipper1 (Jul 30, 2018)

hseII said:


> Ive had my hands on a 2511 but have not seen a 271.
> 
> The 2511T almost Pocket size & would do well on my saddle for those smaller jobs.
> 
> If the 271T was on the same frame but just a little more however...


I thought they would make a nice gansta arborist necklace they are so small, hanging around your neck and put a gold chain on it .
For the price I can't imagine anyone who does climbing work on a normal basis not having one, they seem as handy as a shirt pocket, wait I don't think any of my shirts have pockets.


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 30, 2018)

chipper1 said:


> What deflector neighbor(exhaust)?
> Did you get it .
> I'm still looking at getting one of these little guys. I've had them in my hands and piss revved a bit, but not in wood yet .



Yes, exhaust deflector. I got it but it was too big for the tiny muffler so its still stock.


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## deercatcher (Jul 31, 2018)

I bought a switch for a pony motor at Commercial Power on Industrial Loop, Shreveport, La. I was eyeing the 2511T in a glass cabinet, and the owner (I believe) unlocked it. I put it on my shoulder and patted it, baby style and it gave me a nice burp! When he realized I own a tree service in town, he allowed me to demo the saw, and I kept it a week. All my guys loved it. I cried when I took it back... Plan to get one soon. I have the Stihl 150, and it is definitly better than the Stihl.


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## Ketchup (Aug 1, 2018)

deercatcher said:


> I bought a switch for a pony motor at Commercial Power on Industrial Loop, Shreveport, La. I was eyeing the 2511T in a glass cabinet, and the owner (I believe) unlocked it. I put it on my shoulder and patted it, baby style and it gave me a nice burp! When he realized I own a tree service in town, he allowed me to demo the saw, and I kept it a week. All my guys loved it. I cried when I took it back... Plan to get one soon. I have the Stihl 150, and it is definitly better than the Stihl.



The two saws are surpisingly different. The 150 is fantastic for delicate and precise trim cuts. The 2551 is much better for 6-10" cuts. We use both every day. The 150 for trimming, the 2551 is more general. For bigger takedowns we have 201s that wear 16" bars all the time. All 3 benefit enormously from modifications. They don't burp anymore after that. They scream!


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## pro94lt (Aug 1, 2018)

Are you guys comparing the 2511t to a modded 150? I've been running a 150 with timing advanced and muffler opened and it cuts very well. Not as good as a 271t but the weight savings are worth it to me...


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## Ketchup (Aug 1, 2018)

Our 150 has a MM, timing advance, and the carb limiters are drilled. It's great but with that tiny chain it's pretty slow in 6"+ cuts. The 2551 is stock and is still faster because of the larger chain. It also seems to have more torque.


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## pro94lt (Aug 1, 2018)

Well I guess I'll have to get one... I went from a 271t which I ran 2 of for 4 or 5 years to a 150t that is 3 years old...


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## chipper1 (Aug 2, 2018)

pro94lt said:


> Are you guys comparing the 2511t to a modded 150? I've been running a 150 with timing advanced and muffler opened and it cuts very well. Not as good as a 271t but the weight savings are worth it to me...


I see he says theirs if modded, but to me regardless for the price why not have one.


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## chipper1 (Aug 2, 2018)

deercatcher said:


> I bought a switch for a pony motor at Commercial Power on Industrial Loop, Shreveport, La. I was eyeing the 2511T in a glass cabinet, and the owner (I believe) unlocked it. I put it on my shoulder and patted it, baby style and it gave me a nice burp! When he realized I own a tree service in town, he allowed me to demo the saw, and I kept it a week. All my guys loved it. I cried when I took it back... Plan to get one soon. I have the Stihl 150, and it is definitly better than the Stihl.


Crazy how small they are isn't it.
Hopefully when you go back in he will give you a deal in it since it's a demo saw lol.
If I didn't have 3-200's, a 540, and a 192 as well as a couple rear handled 201's I'd have one. Now what's funnier yet is i am rarely in a tree . 
Anyone want to buy a saw , or trade for a 2511 .


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## Ketchup (Aug 14, 2018)

Sooo...
I took a video of a couple saws cutting 6" cookies this morning. The 2511 did terrible!
2511: 16 seconds
150: 10 seconds
192: 7 seconds
201: 7 seconds

I thought the chain must have gotten damaged on the 2511, so I sharpened it up nice. It still cut like a dog. My boss usually runs this saw, I usually run the 150, so I'm not sure if the saw needs tuning or what. 

Working on uploading the video...


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## Ketchup (Aug 15, 2018)

2511 stock, 150 modded, 192 ported, 201 modded.


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## chipper1 (Aug 15, 2018)

Ketchup said:


> 2511 stock, 150 modded, 192 ported, 201 modded.



Sounds rich and choked up.
On the second cut at 31 and 37 seconds it starts to clean up in the cut, try leaning it out a bit.
Also open the muffler up and run a shorter bar on it.


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## 2Strokn (Aug 15, 2018)

That Echo is pig rich. That's the only problem. Lean it out.


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## cuinrearview (Aug 15, 2018)

That's horrible! How did your boss not notice that?


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## stubnail67 (Aug 15, 2018)

What size bar are is on the echo? looks like a 14 inch? unless you go narrow kerf i would not go any more then a 12 inch bar and chain....and its running rich i agree....the stihl 150 sounded a lil rich also the 192 sounded dead on.....it cleaned up in the cut nice...


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## Ketchup (Aug 15, 2018)

That echo is a funny saw. I went after it with a baby screw driver today. The best I could do was bump up the idle and lean it 1/4 turn. The limiters only allow 3/4 of a turn. It helped, but needs more tuning in wood. I want to strip the limiters and open the muffler, but the boss wants his 1 year warranty. It's a 12" bar. This saw ran a lot better for the first two months. It's getting some rough treatment.

The 150 had a lot of ethanol through it early in life, the settings keep shifting. Probably time for a carb rebuild. 

The 192 is a surprisingly good saw. It's ported and razor sharp, so it's in a different bracket. But the 2511 was much closer to it two months ago.

I also think a batch of fuel was mixed closer to 40/1. That may be part of why the 25cc saws are running fat. Anybody run 40/1 in a 2511?


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## cuinrearview (Aug 15, 2018)

So the boss will pay to get a 192 ported but won't allow the others to be tuned properly? Because of warranty? Strange...


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## pro94lt (Aug 15, 2018)

I'm heart broken, I just got my 2511t, and timed cuts between it and my ms150t, I never thought the 150 could be out matched, but it is the lighter echo was 4 seconds faster in a 12 inch white oak... I loved that ms150t...


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## holeycow (Aug 15, 2018)

Looks like a good handsaw would be as good as any of ‘em. And be really light.


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## cuinrearview (Aug 15, 2018)

holeycow said:


> Looks like a good handsaw would be as good as any of ‘em. And be really light.


Obviously you've yet to handle a 2511t. It's lighter than your handsaw...


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## Ketchup (Aug 15, 2018)

cuinrearview said:


> So the boss will pay to get a 192 ported but won't allow the others to be tuned properly? Because of warranty? Strange...



The 192 is a personal project. I always thought they were junk and still do. This one is the exception to the rule. Not a company saw though.
He's all for me tuning the saws, but not shaving the limiters or opening the muffler until the warranty is over. With the Stihls that's only 3 months. 



pro94lt said:


> I'm heart broken, I just got my 2511t, and timed cuts between it and my ms150t, I never thought the 150 could be out matched, but it is the lighter echo was 4 seconds faster in a 12 inch white oak... I loved that ms150t...



That's how THIS 2511 was. I want that back. A muffler mod will wake up that 150, a little timing bump and carb mod will pour it a cup of coffee. 



holeycow said:


> Looks like a good handsaw would be as good as any of ‘em. And be really light.



I'm happy to use a handsaw like a ninja on Aderol, but I still prune old locust faster with the 150.


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## holeycow (Aug 15, 2018)

cuinrearview said:


> Obviously you've yet to handle a 2511t. It's lighter than your handsaw...



Well no, it can’t be lighter than my little bucksaw bowsaw, whatchamacallit saw.

That little handsaw only weighs a couple of pounds.

Just to clear that up.


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## chipper1 (Aug 15, 2018)

Ketchup said:


> I took a video of a couple saws cutting 6" cookies this morning.





Ketchup said:


> It's a 12" bar.


According to the above post it would have to be a 14 at minimum as there was much more than twice the width of the round .


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## Ketchup (Aug 16, 2018)

Hmm. I see that. Maybe its 5" wood? Guess I'll do some more test cuts and measure this time.


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## stubnail67 (Aug 16, 2018)

I run 40-1 but i take limiters off and tune them in wood....


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## Ketchup (Aug 16, 2018)

5" wood, 12" bar.


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## chipper1 (Aug 16, 2018)

Ketchup said:


> View attachment 669136
> 5" wood, 12" bar.


That's funny man,you know I was just messing I hope .
Regardless, tuned well they are great for what they are designed for.
I'm sure I'll have one some day.


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## stubnail67 (Aug 16, 2018)

Dont show my wife that ... thats at least ten inches LOl. hence the red ten on the bottom LOL....


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## stubnail67 (Aug 16, 2018)

LMAO!


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## Ketchup (Aug 17, 2018)

13cm wood definitely sounds bigger!
5 or 13, the saw was dull and tuned all wrong. I'll make a better video after I tune it in wood. 
I really like that saw.


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## Hitchwrap (Mar 5, 2019)

Hey all, just joined arboristsite.
I've been running the Baby Echo for over a year with a 12" 1/4x.043 setup. For sure the best trim saw I have ever used in over 14 years of climbing. The only issue I've noticed is the bar. I started with a modified Stihl bar, but it was too soft, and didn't hold up well. The Woodland Pro bars were a great deal, but the sprocket tips exploded. I believe there's a slight difference in chain sizes within brands (Sugihara is the only one that picked up on this). After 4 trips back to Bailey's, they gave me a free carving bar they had laying around. Needless to say, there are no more exploding sprockets. The carver doesn't like back-chaining, but otherwise works fine. The Woodland Pro chain is more aggressive, and great for removals. The Stihl chain cuts smoother, but is probably the main culprit for wrecking sprockets. 
I just recently discovered 3/8 narrow kerf, and bought a 3/8x.043 bar and 3 chains: Stihl 61PMM3, Woodland 30LP, and Oregon 90PX. I will see how this compares to the 1/4" setup.


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## full chizel (Mar 5, 2019)

I have the Stihl bar and .043 3/8lp on mine and it cuts very well. I’ve used the 1/4” on a 150T and hated it and its a PITA to sharpen being so small.


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## Hitchwrap (Mar 5, 2019)

full chizel said:


> I have the Stihl bar and .043 3/8lp on mine and it cuts very well. I’ve used the 1/4” on a 150T and hated it and its a PITA to sharpen being so small.



I know what you mean about the sharpening. I usually have the dealer take care of that one. Our local Stihl shop does a great job for $6, and I have spares to rotate through. Good to know the 3/8x.043 is working well.


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## Hitchwrap (Mar 5, 2019)

full chizel said:


> I have the Stihl bar and .043 3/8lp on mine and it cuts very well. I’ve used the 1/4” on a 150T and hated it and its a PITA to sharpen being so small.



I know what you mean about the sharpening. I usually have the dealer take care of that one. Our local Stihl shop does a great job for $6, and I have spares to rotate through. Good to know the 3/8x.043 is working well.


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## chipper1 (Mar 6, 2019)

Hitchwrap said:


> I know what you mean about the sharpening. I usually have the dealer take care of that one. Our local Stihl shop does a great job for $6, and I have spares to rotate through. Good to know the 3/8x.043 is working well.


Welcome to AS Hitch.
I can see saving time by having them sharpen them, but it doesn't take long to sharpen a little lp/picco chain. It also seems that for the most part you could plan when to sharpen them as they don't dull out quickly when used in tree, on the ground is a different story. It can take about the same time to sharpen as it does to swap out a chain. Just thinking out loud, help me understand your system better.
Brett


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## mountainlake (Mar 6, 2019)

holeycow said:


> Looks like a good handsaw would be as good as any of ‘em. And be really light.


 

It's time to add dislikes for snooty people like you. Steve


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## greengreer (Mar 6, 2019)

I converted mine to 1/4p .043 with a 10" Stihl bar. I definitely feel that's what the saw should have been sold with. It pulled the 3/8 lopro just fine, but the smaller chain makes such nice pruning cuts. If I'm looking for pure cut speed I'm gonna use a full size top handle. 
Sharpening isn't much worse than 3/8 lp for me, just need to have good lighting. That being said I'm not using this thing anywhere near dirt so it just needs a touch up every few tanks


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## Ketchup (Mar 6, 2019)

The 1/4 semi chisel is much better for making 1 handed cuts and leaves a nice smooth surface. I thought the 3/8lp was faster, but after testing the difference is less than 1 second in 8" green apple, so mine does almost everything with the little chain. I do hate stihl safety rakers. 

Interesting that people feel like the Stihl bars don't last. Mine is on year two with plenty of life in it and almost daily service.

I've been thinking of putting a 16" 3/8lp x 1/4 on a ported echo. Anbody running that setup?


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## Franny K (Mar 6, 2019)

Hitchwrap said:


> I just recently discovered 3/8 narrow kerf, and bought a 3/8x.043 bar and 3 chains: Stihl 61PMM3, Woodland 30LP, and Oregon 90PX. I will see how this compares to the 1/4" setup



The woodland pro in 3/8lp 0.043 I got was disappointing in that it is just the 0.050 sized cutters on the smaller gauge drive links. I have a number of things running the Stihl 44 dl bars and chain in 61pmm3 and the Stihl bar cover that gets cut to size and heat gun modified.

As for 1/4 inch pitch chain I have both Oregon 25ap and Stihl 13RM (the 0,050" gauge stuff) and for me it works a lot nicer if you can run it on a rim sprocket as opposed to a spur. Derails rather easy there is a good reason it has fallen out of favor most likely. The Stihl product does last very long before not cutting well.

Seeing as this is arborist site not timber faller (it may be feller) site isn't it kind of strange that besides myself (who has pretty much gone battery in this class) this Husqvarna model coming or maybe even here now as it is March does not have threads or comments pertaining to it like when will it arrive. Seems to be a direct competitor to the Echo of this thread. https://www.husqvarna.com/us/products/chainsaws/t525/967633312/


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## Colt Marlington (Mar 6, 2019)

Ketchup said:


> I've been thinking of putting a 16" 3/8lp x 1/4 on a ported echo. Anbody running that setup?


I got a 14" double-guard bar with a 3/8lp .050 chain on mine right now because I buggered a drive link on the 12" that it came with and didn't want to put it back on after I filed it for fear of wearing the sprocket. And I haven't acquired another 12" chain yet.


Pulls the 14 just fine and I like the balance better than the 10" I tried on it first.

I think the 12 and 14 inch bars are a perfect fit on this saw. But could definitely see the advantage of the smoother cut with a 1/4 pitch mini chain for pruning big shrubs and small trees.
1/4 should have less chatter also.


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## full chizel (Mar 6, 2019)

Colt Marlington said:


> I got a 14" double-guard bar with a 3/8lp .050 chain on mine right now because I buggered a drive link on the 12" that it came with and didn't want to put it back on after I filed it for fear of wearing the sprocket. And I haven't acquired another 12" chain yet.
> View attachment 720651
> 
> Pulls the 14 just fine and I like the balance better than the 10" I tried on it first.
> ...



Anything is less chatter than that stock VXL chain


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## pro94lt (Mar 6, 2019)

Hey just discovered the starter handle cat fit into the oil/fuel cap to ease the opening of them lol. Theirs actually information in the owners manual


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## full chizel (Mar 6, 2019)

pro94lt said:


> Hey just discovered the starter handle cat fit into the oil/fuel cap to ease the opening of them lol. Theirs actually information in the owners manual



Yeah i found that out too. I still just use a scrench though


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## Colt Marlington (Mar 6, 2019)

I use a scrench if I can reach it. But the handle's always there.


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## Ketchup (Mar 7, 2019)

I hope the T525 is awesome. I'm so deep in 2511t and 150t that I haven't been looking at anything new. I hope to get one on the bench this summer though.


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## Colt Marlington (Mar 10, 2019)

full chizel said:


> Anything is less chatter than that stock VXL chain


Which chain would you suggest to fit on my factory 91 series 12" 3/8lp .050 bar?

Echo shows 91PXL45CQ as a replacement chain. Says low vibration.
https://www.echo-usa.com/Products/Accessories/Chainsaw-Accessories/Chain/12-Chain-91PXL-Series

Looks like my saw actually came with the 91PXL chain when new.


Here's the buggered link. Think that would put undo wear on the sprocket?


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## Ketchup (Mar 11, 2019)

Those drive links are pretty haggard, but considering the amount of tooth left I would take the time to file them. I don't like full chisel on the 2511t. It chatters and makes a rough cut. I believe the PXL is a semi chisel, so somewhat better.

I hadn't really thought about it, but the chatter is probably as bad for the sprocket as bad drive teeth. So yeah, PXL seems to be correct.


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## Toychainsaw (Aug 16, 2019)

First post on AS, I just picked up a 2511 and having a hard time locating a service or workshop manual.


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## chipper1 (Aug 16, 2019)

Toychainsaw said:


> First post on AS, I just picked up a 2511 and having a hard time locating a service or workshop manual.


Welcome to AS.
@ray benson do you have anything for him.


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## ray benson (Aug 16, 2019)

Toychainsaw said:


> First post on AS, I just picked up a 2511 and having a hard time locating a service or workshop manual.


Check your inbox for service manual, and link to operators manual and ipl.
Requests are usually in the chainsaw stickies, beg for manual thread
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/the-beg-for-manuals-thread.68615/page-1521


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## chipper1 (Aug 16, 2019)

ray benson said:


> Check your inbox for service manual, and link to operators manual and ipl.
> Requests are usually in the chainsaw stickies, beg for manual thread
> https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/the-beg-for-manuals-thread.68615/page-1521


Thanks Ray .


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## eye.heart.trees (Feb 16, 2020)

2Strokn said:


> I actually didn't even remove the muffler from the saw. I held the saw so that the muffler was upside down (so any metal chips would fall out as I drilled). I then drilled two 3/16" holes in the flat spot that looks like the natural place to drill. I did hit another layer of metal about 1/4" inside and drilled through that as well. Not sure if it was a baffle or catalyst. Then I removed the carb limiters and tuned to match.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Would LOVE to hear anything you can tell me about this tuning!! I stopped using my tach as tuning-by-ear has been giving far better results for me (just use tach to ensure not >maxRPM) however after doing a muffler mod (w/ an increased air-take mod) i didn't re-tune it seemed to sound fine, I've only used it 1 job (it's apart again for other reasons) but figure to re-tune it since it's been modded but since my only apprroach will be "turn H&L all the way in, turn Idle a random ~1-2 turns out, then work from Idle&L to H, ensure all quick pickup/no stall-outs and that max-RPM is ~90-95% factory-spec - but not over!" Any, like ANY, advice you can give on tuning after mods would be greatly appreciated, am guessing I can get more power from minor tuning - maybe even from fuel modification? Am using 95oct husqvarna fuel now, maybe an octane booster could be of use?


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## eye.heart.trees (Feb 16, 2020)

Ketchup said:


> I bought a ms150t off Craigslist for $200 early this fall. It was my first ultralight trim saw and I fell in love. After 4 months of hard use it will die when I drop the throttle too fast, especially when the fuel is low. Mostly it is fantastic though. I like the micro b&c. It cuts very smooth though the chains don't last long.
> Well, now there are 3 of us fighting for this saw every morning, so maybe it's time for an Echo...
> You guys are selling it pretty well.
> We were holding out for the Stihl Battery saws to become available, but I think Stihl is afraid they will kill their 193 sales if they bring it out. We're sick of waiting. The husky e-saw seems nice, but heavy. The e-saws are twice the price of an echo 251t. Anybody running both? Got a favorite?


I know it's been >1yr so maybe lithium saws are in your sites now (couldn't blame you, am expecting/hoping my next real saw purchase will be a lithium husq or echo model) but would say that the $90-140 'scheppach csp2540' (the badging on mine) / jon cutter / un-labelled 25cc/10-12" 7lbs saws are awesome, I'm going to order a 2nd soon so I can modify mine more aggressively and get hard #'s for pre/post mods but they're all over amazon/ebay I couldn't suggest them higher I mean for that price you could get 2 and put great bar/chain setups on them (my version, the 'scheppach csp2540' which is 140 shipped, came w/ an Oregon bar&chain 91p type which was nice although @10" I have it in the parts drawer, using instead a 12" Echo bar and even though I removed the 1.5" deep front-bumper on the saw - for more cutting-length - and have that 12" bar, I can still just *bury* it in fact I only call for my 33cc/16" when something's over 11.75" lol otherwise I never let of mine in 8mo it's always been my most-used!! And you mention chains...unsure why you've got a chain-longevity problem, is it possible you're keeping them too-tight? I dunno if it's 'beneath you' but walmart has 2-packs of "tri-link" chains for $15 for 12"'s and $22 for 16"'s, I know they're not great but I'll take a new chain over a duller-but-better chain anyday yknow? I know I should sharpen on-site but in-practice I've found guys I work for and even clients view it as you doing 'chainsaw maintenance' while you should be working I've almost given-up entirely I think I'll simply sharpen 2-3 chains at a time for each of my saws so I can always show-up with 3 fresh chains for each powerhead that should be fine for most gigs I've ever had


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## Ketchup (Feb 16, 2020)

No knowledge of the Asian budget top handles, but I would rather have a dead one walk in the door than buy one and be disappointed.

The 1/4” chain is just smaller so it files away faster than a larger chain. Personally I think it’s worth the finer cut and smaller nose bar. 

The 150t’s have turned out to be fickle on repairs. We moved on to 2511t and haven’t looked back.


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## chipper1 (Feb 16, 2020)

eye.heart.trees said:


> I know it's been >1yr so maybe lithium saws are in your sites now (couldn't blame you, am expecting/hoping my next real saw purchase will be a lithium husq or echo model) but would say that the $90-140 'scheppach csp2540' (the badging on mine) / jon cutter / un-labelled 25cc/10-12" 7lbs saws are awesome, I'm going to order a 2nd soon so I can modify mine more aggressively and get hard #'s for pre/post mods but they're all over amazon/ebay I couldn't suggest them higher I mean for that price you could get 2 and put great bar/chain setups on them (my version, the 'scheppach csp2540' which is 140 shipped, came w/ an Oregon bar&chain 91p type which was nice although @10" I have it in the parts drawer, using instead a 12" Echo bar and even though I removed the 1.5" deep front-bumper on the saw - for more cutting-length - and have that 12" bar, I can still just *bury* it in fact I only call for my 33cc/16" when something's over 11.75" lol otherwise I never let of mine in 8mo it's always been my most-used!! And you mention chains...unsure why you've got a chain-longevity problem, is it possible you're keeping them too-tight? I dunno if it's 'beneath you' but walmart has 2-packs of "tri-link" chains for $15 for 12"'s and $22 for 16"'s, I know they're not great but I'll take a new chain over a duller-but-better chain anyday yknow? I know I should sharpen on-site but in-practice I've found guys I work for and even clients view it as you doing 'chainsaw maintenance' while you should be working I've almost given-up entirely I think I'll simply sharpen 2-3 chains at a time for each of my saws so I can always show-up with 3 fresh chains for each powerhead that should be fine for most gigs I've ever had


Many people aren't "above" using something from Walmart, but they choose not to support china as much as possible with their purchases. However, I realize many people don't have much of a choice since Walmarts preditorial practices have shut down all the local stores they previously had prior to Walmart swooping in to save the day. I was quite please with Greenville Mi telling them they could not build within the city limits(hometown of Meijer, a now regional store who Walmart openly threatened to build anywhere they did), of course they just built on the other side of the city limits .

I couldn't care what a client/contractor thinks about me sharpening on site, it takes about the same time to touch up a chain every other tank than it does to change one out, especially on a top handle saw. Also running lower quality chains will increase the need to sharpen them or change them out. Personally if I rock a chain on a job I grab another saw that's set up when possible and keep cutting.


eye.heart.trees said:


> Would LOVE to hear anything you can tell me about this tuning!! I stopped using my tach as tuning-by-ear has been giving far better results for me (just use tach to ensure not >maxRPM) however after doing a muffler mod (w/ an increased air-take mod) i didn't re-tune it seemed to sound fine, I've only used it 1 job (it's apart again for other reasons) but figure to re-tune it since it's been modded but since my only apprroach will be "turn H&L all the way in, turn Idle a random ~1-2 turns out, then work from Idle&L to H, ensure all quick pickup/no stall-outs and that max-RPM is ~90-95% factory-spec - but not over!" Any, like ANY, advice you can give on tuning after mods would be greatly appreciated, am guessing I can get more power from minor tuning - maybe even from fuel modification? Am using 95oct husqvarna fuel now, maybe an octane booster could be of use?


With the intake mods the carb may not need to be retuned after the muffler mod. The saw should be capable of running at higher rpms than the factory specs with the mods, but you will need to do some testing to know where it runs the strongest/most efficient. Basically since you modded it the factory specs are only a good starting point now.


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## exppii (Apr 2, 2020)

Hello,

I am glad to see that this little saw has a following. I'd like to ask the more knowledgeable members a few questions.
I am going to buy the saw for trimming olive trees, and olive is a pretty hard wood. Max diameter 6 inches. It may be used in a pinch on the ground for cutting to length.

In Europe, one can buy the saw with a regular 10" bar / .050 3/8 lo-pro chain or with a 10" carving bar / .043 1/4 chain.

carving version and regular version

3/8 low profile chain is readily available, 1/4 .043 is a bit of a pain to find, but not impossible.

Given the nature of the work the saw will be doing, which combo do you suggest? Price is almost the same, the carving saw is ~30 euro more expensive.


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## CR888 (Apr 2, 2020)

Get it set up with 3/8 lo pro chain, sprocket & maybe worm gear too??? Sure 1/4'' is smooth but the chain is a pain to sharpen, its expensive, often hard to source and the cutters get filed/ground away in no time. 3/8L/P can be a bit rough but can be tuned/detuned for smoother operation. That's what I have done & pleased I did.


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## Ketchup (Apr 2, 2020)

100% disagree. The 1/4” makes a much smoother and CONTROLLED cut. If the nose of the bar has a smaller diameter, all the better. 

The 3/8lp will chatter in the cut and will jump and skate more easily at the start of the cut. It’s also easier to damage the tree with excess follow through. If making many small cuts close to the branch collar, the 3/8lp will result in a sloppier over all prune.

It’s true that the 1/4” chain wears out quickly if filed agressively. It is a more delicate process to file. The files must be sharp. And 1/4” chain is more expensive. But the overall performance of the tool is better. It will eliminate 50% of your hand saw work.


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## Yotaismygame (Apr 2, 2020)

Stock 1/4 is better. Ported 3/8 LP is a little faster.


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## Doskiez (Apr 2, 2020)

I picked one of these up a few weeks ago, I LOVE it! I used the stock bar and chain for less than a tank of fuel and ordered a 1/4 .043 setup. I like the 1/4 much better. Its amazing the power it has even in stock trim, although I know myself and it wont stay stock for long. Trying to give it a few months just in case I have any major failures but after that if all seems well its getting ported.


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## Doskiez (Apr 2, 2020)

Yotaismygame said:


> Stock 1/4 is better. Ported 3/8 LP is a little faster.


Could you file the 1/4 a little different to take a bigger bite out or do you think that would lead to other issues?


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## Yotaismygame (Apr 2, 2020)

I’m sure they both could be filled a way to optimize cut times. But in the states the cost to fit a 1/4 setup on a 2511t isn’t the cheapest. IMO might as well have it ported and run the stock setup. Again this is geared towards how the saws come here in the states


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## full chizel (Apr 2, 2020)

I changed mine to a .043 3/8lp Stihl bar and chain. It came with .050 but its too big for that saw IMO.

I haven’t use my 192T since I got this one. I don’t do tree work so the 192T worked well for my needs.


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## wyk (Apr 3, 2020)

Just a heads up, they still have the rear handle version available in the UK at a buds site here:






ECHO CS-2511 WES - Chainsawbars







www.chainsawbars.co.uk





He will ship to the US for sumfin like £49.


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## CR888 (Apr 4, 2020)

Yotaismygame said:


> Stock 1/4 is better. Ported 3/8 LP is a little faster.


Maybe so but to some the top handles are precision tools, the quality of a job & the health of a tree can come down too chain setup. Nothing worse than lo pro skating side to side on a pole saw and jumping out of the cut. Look 1/4" performs great in tree service work. Outright cut times simply isnt always the deciding factor. I have 100ft rolls of 3/8 050 lo/pro and that is what I use. I detune the chain some to cut as smooth as possible, don't use vxl type chain. I make it work but I'd much rather use (if it existed) a lo profile .325. With 3 pole saws and about 10 top handles, I gotta keep things simple and running the same chain pitch/gauge has benefits. 1/4" is expensive and fidly, I don't want to swap grinder wheels for a few chains each day. Keeping it simple isn't perfect, its a juggling act.


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## Ketchup (Apr 4, 2020)

CR888 said:


> Keeping it simple isn't perfect, its a juggling act.



We’re running 4 2511ts on 1/4” then 5 200/201t and two power poles on 3/8lp, 5 ms261s on .325, 2 ms362s and 3 372xts on 3/8” and a 395xp on 3/8 full skip. Simple it ain’t. 

The worst part is how bad my coworkers are at sharpening. I caught one sawing on the 395 with a dull .325 file the other day. They really can’t tell when the file is dull and fractions scare them. Chisel angle? Forget it. They’re great guys though.

Personally, for my own climbing, I really prefer the 2511 with 1/4” and a tiny nose. I make a lot of one handed cuts in absurd contortions. I want control and accuracy above speed. For removals and precision topping the speed is more important. That’s what the 200t (or 346) is for.


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## Yotaismygame (Apr 4, 2020)

CR888 said:


> Maybe so but to some the top handles are precision tools, the quality of a job & the health of a tree can come down too chain setup. Nothing worse than lo pro skating side to side on a pole saw and jumping out of the cut. Look 1/4" performs great in tree service work. Outright cut times simply isnt always the deciding factor. I have 100ft rolls of 3/8 050 lo/pro and that is what I use. I detune the chain some to cut as smooth as possible, don't use vxl type chain. I make it work but I'd much rather use (if it existed) a lo profile .325. With 3 pole saws and about 10 top handles, I gotta keep things simple and running the same chain pitch/gauge has benefits. 1/4" is expensive and fidly, I don't want to swap grinder wheels for a few chains each day. Keeping it simple isn't perfect, its a juggling act.



Zero issues with the stock setup once ported. No jumping etc, just smooth cutting. That was my point. Added benefit, it cuts fast. In my 2511t build thread I have videos showing this. I bought a 1/4 setup first, then ported it and found the stock setup would have been just fine.


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## buttercup (Apr 4, 2020)

Ketchup said:


> 100% disagree. The 1/4” makes a much smoother and CONTROLLED cut. If the nose of the bar has a smaller diameter, all the better.
> 
> The 3/8lp will chatter in the cut and will jump and skate more easily at the start of the cut. It’s also easier to damage the tree with excess follow through. If making many small cuts close to the branch collar, the 3/8lp will result in a sloppier over all prune.
> 
> It’s true that the 1/4” chain wears out quickly if filed agressively. It is a more delicate process to file. The files must be sharp. And 1/4” chain is more expensive. But the overall performance of the tool is better. It will eliminate 50% of your hand saw work.





Backyard Lumberjack said:


> I let them know... they were on thin ice, but so far... good as solid ground. and reason why! ~ they said...
> 
> " Takk, mr Buttercup!"



You need a .043 bar on these saws, this chain might be similar to "Stihl Super SS Rallye GT Micro Nano", however it makes the same difference as going from standard 3/8 to 3/8 LP - when going to this compared to 3/8 LP.


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## buttercup (Apr 4, 2020)

Courtesy of mr.WYK and not to forget mr.SVK, the Makita 32 uses this chain and is at 1.35kw compared to the echo at 1.6kw with a .050 3/8 LP - watch and learn


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## exppii (Apr 4, 2020)

1/4 it is then!
It would help if I could run regular .050 1/4" chain, I have a couple other saws that run this size. Is the sprocket the same for 1/4 .043 and 1/4 .050?

And another question: I understand that the saw (at least here) comes with a carving bar, without a front sprocket. I have not worked with these. Is there any benefit to changing to a bar with a sprocket?


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## buttercup (Apr 4, 2020)

exppii said:


> And another question: I understand that the saw (at least here) comes with a carving bar, without a front sprocket. I have not worked with these. Is there any benefit to changing to a bar with a sprocket?



The benefit to a guide bar with no tip sprocket is that you can use any chain you want within the specified groove width, as long as you have the correct drive sprocket.
For bigger saws the tip sprocket is advised when doing plunge cut, it does not really have any advantage otherwise. But of course if you use the upper side of the bar a lot...


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## wyk (Apr 4, 2020)

buttercup said:


> Courtesy of mr.WYK and not to forget mr.SVK, the Makita 32 uses this chain and is at 1.35kw compared to the echo at 1.6kw with a .050 3/8 LP - watch and learn



Just keep in mind the echo and makita are not stock. The makita is ported, with a timing advance, and has modified primaries as well. The echo had a completely gutted exhaust with dual ports, but is otherwise stock. 

Personally, I'm not a fan of 3/8 lp, tho. I prefer 325. It seems to jump the bars much less, but that could be me.


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## buttercup (Apr 4, 2020)

wyk said:


> Just keep in mind the echo and makita are not stock. The makita is ported, with a timing advance, and has modified primaries as well. The echo had a completely gutted exhaust with dual ports, but is otherwise stock.
> 
> Personally, I'm not a fan of 3/8 lp, tho. I prefer 325. It seems to jump the bars much less, but that could be me.



However, the difference in your video represents the experience I had comparing those two saws (stock) pretty accurate, so I'd say it's still pretty truthfully shown.
Its the difference that matters to me, not the little extra hp you have gained on both  
I like the 325 too, at 50cc.


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## wyk (Apr 4, 2020)

buttercup said:


> However, the difference in your video represents the experience I had comparing those two saws (stock) pretty accurate, so I'd say it's still pretty truthfully shown.
> Its the difference that matters to me, not the little extra hp you have gained on both
> I like the 325 too, at 50cc.


What difference?


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## buttercup (Apr 4, 2020)

wyk said:


> What difference?



The Makita cuts fast and without effort - compared to just about anything, the Echo don't.
My saws are stock, but that's still exactly the difference.


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## wyk (Apr 4, 2020)

buttercup said:


> The Makita cuts fast and without effort - compared to just about anything, the Echo don't.
> My saws are stock, but that's still exactly the difference.


Is not a fair comparison. The 4300 is heavily ported with a lot of cylinder work, including finger ports. They are both running the exact bar and chain though.


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## Ketchup (Apr 4, 2020)

exppii said:


> 1/4 it is then!
> It would help if I could run regular .050 1/4" chain, I have a couple other saws that run this size. Is the sprocket the same for 1/4 .043 and 1/4 .050?
> 
> And another question: I understand that the saw (at least here) comes with a carving bar, without a front sprocket. I have not worked with these. Is there any benefit to changing to a bar with a sprocket?



The drive sprocket is the same .043 or .050. Not sure what the bar options are for you, but small nose is a big benefit. A hard nose carving bar will put a bit more friction into the system, but if that’s what comes with the saw I would just run with it. I run modded Stihl bars. .043, quarter size sprocket nose 12 or 14”.


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## Ketchup (Apr 4, 2020)

Yotaismygame said:


> Zero issues with the stock setup once ported. No jumping etc, just smooth cutting. That was my point. Added benefit, it cuts fast. In my 2511t build thread I have videos showing this. I bought a 1/4 setup first, then ported it and found the stock setup would have been just fine.


 
I find the 3/8lp harder to control one handed at full extension. The nose on the 3/8lp bars is also wider and more cumbersome. I make lots of cuts on the round of the nose. The skinny tip just fits in tighter spots. Here in the states it really does add some cost, though.


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## Snap (Apr 4, 2020)

Recently bought one with the ECHO .043" (12") bar and chain. First trial had a little jumping but I'll chalk it up to lack of familiarity with the grips. 
Love the weight and size. It will be great to hike out in the woods with for trail maintenance.
I have a Stihl .043" bar and chain to setup for comparison.


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## 2t vs 4t (Jun 18, 2020)

ray benson said:


> Check your inbox for service manual, and link to operators manual and ipl.
> Requests are usually in the chainsaw stickies, beg for manual thread
> https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/the-beg-for-manuals-thread.68615/page-1521


Hello. Could you please send me a service manual for echo 2511? Thank you.


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## TimberMcPherson (Jun 18, 2020)

I run all our 2511t's, 260t's 360t's and 362t's now on 12 inch bars and 3/8lp chains because im lazy and there is great ease in one size fitting all.


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## Mike 4560 (Nov 7, 2022)

matemike said:


> I totally want this saw. It's penny for penny the same price as a Stihl MS 193 T.
> I'm torn between the two, mostly because so many folks around me are saying there is no other brand of saw; "get the stihl and don't look back."
> If the Stihl MS 150 T was in the price range it would probably be the front runner, but the $600 price tag and 1/4" chain aren't cutting it.
> 
> ...


I've a CS 2600 that's 20yrs old and showing it's age a bit but well looked after it's still going strong. Had the CS 2511t for over a year can't fault Echo. Stihl, Husqvarna and Johnsered are great at the top end but for me '40yrs in the tree business' Echo make the best small saws. Don't know about the bigger saws as I've never used one, could be on a par.


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