# cover wood or not



## bassman1641 (Jun 10, 2010)

I have 5 cords split and stacked in sunny breezy spot should i cover top during seasoning or let sun beat down on it ?


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## smokinj (Jun 10, 2010)

Let the sun beat it! If you want to cover it wait til fall.


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## Blowncrewcab (Jun 10, 2010)

I just built a 31' x 24' building, No sides with a clear plastic roof so the sun can beat on it And it will stay Dry......I'm :censored: tired of tarps. I unload and split in one side and stack in the other side. I can even be out there cutting and stacking in the rain


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## Wood Doctor (Jun 10, 2010)

bassman1641 said:


> I have 5 cords split and stacked in sunny breezy spot should i cover top during seasoning or let sun beat down on it ?


I don't cover mine, even in winter. The sun, wind, and the drying of rained-on wood helps dry it all. The green wood on the inside hardly knows that the rain is there, especially if stacked horizontally rather that in a random pile. Wind might even dry the wood faster than the sun does, but I've never seen any studies published on the issue.


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## redprospector (Jun 10, 2010)

Wood Doctor said:


> I don't cover mine, even in winter. The sun, wind, and the drying of rained-on wood helps dry it all. The green wood on the inside hardly knows that the rain is there, especially if stacked horizontally rather that in a random pile. Wind might even dry the wood faster than the sun does, but I've never seen any studies published on the issue.



Well, I'd say it's high time you did that study then.  

Andy


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## peterc38 (Jun 10, 2010)

smokinj said:


> Let the sun beat it! If you want to cover it wait til fall.




+1, thats my system, works great


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## Pain Cow (Jun 10, 2010)

I've got one pile (about 3 cords) that sits in about a 6' high pile at the base of a big silver maple tree. It's in the shade most of the day except for a couple hours in the evening. When it rains, it doesn't get rained on nearly as much as my stacked full sunlight cords. Yet....less sun&probably less air. wonder how that equasion works out for drying? I realize the stacked full sunlight cords will be dryer than the pile @ the base of the maple but the world may never know exactly to what extent.


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## Wood Doctor (Jun 10, 2010)

redprospector said:


> Well, I'd say it's high time you did that study then.
> 
> Andy


I'd love to but I can't seem to get any Federal funding for the project. Most of the government's dough seems to be heading towards the Gulf of Mexico.

Seriously though, my gut feeling says wind and fresh air dries more wood piles faster than the sun ever did. If you tarp cover the wood, you lose both and the air underneath the tarp turns into a sauna bath.


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## mga (Jun 10, 2010)

smokinj said:


> Let the sun beat it! If you want to cover it wait til fall.



that's how i roll


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## howellhandmade (Jun 10, 2010)

Wood Doctor said:


> I'd love to but I can't seem to get any Federal funding for the project. Most of the government's dough seems to be heading towards the Gulf of Mexico.
> 
> Seriously though, my gut feeling says wind and fresh air dries more wood piles faster than the sun ever did. If you tarp cover the wood, you lose both and the air underneath the tarp turns into a sauna bath.



I think it all depends. How much does it rain? How humid is it? How much sun does your stack get? How soon do you intend to use the wood? It's just wet enough here in the summer that I think covering just the top of the stack is beneficial. I've left stacks uncovered, too.

Jack


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## GlennG (Jun 11, 2010)

Build a proper wood shed . nothing will touch it, not rain not snow, it will get crispy dry. And stay dry. Building a wood shed is simple and cheap. Best money spent ever.


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## Wood Doctor (Jun 11, 2010)

*Sheds are Excellent, But...*

The wood shed is a vastly superior alternative to a tarp. Unfortunately, many neighborhood covenant restrictions (such as mine) do not allow them to be built. 

So, I use a 3-stage approach. (1) Underneath my outdooor deck, which is 9' above ground, I store a separate stack of wood that is next in line for the stove. The deck floor above helps protect it. (2) Then, I have a 2' x 2' x 3' box on casters that I roll into the house. It holds two to three days of continuous burning and damp wood dries inside it. (3) Next to the stove is another batch of wood ready for burning that the stove dries completely.


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## logbutcher (Jun 11, 2010)

Wood Doctor said:


> I don't cover mine, even in winter. The sun, wind, and the drying of rained-on wood helps dry it all. The green wood on the inside hardly knows that the rain is there, especially if stacked horizontally rather that in a random pile. Wind might even dry the wood faster than the sun does, but I've never seen any *studies published on the issue.*



Zogby Institute @ MIT, research 1979, 1991 in an in depth EPA analysis of 2013 woodpiles and said owners in Michigan, Alaska, Maine, Vermont, and New York. Published under Drs. Kevorkian, Gore, Carter in the Journal of Cambiums found that 8 out of 10 woodpiles were better off nude. A fact.

The Journal of American Psychiatry discovered an alarming rate of an O.C.D. now The Woodpiles of owners obsessing about the level of moisture in their firewood. A fact. 

DO NOT cover. Build.


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## mga (Jun 11, 2010)

logbutcher said:


> Zogby Institute @ MIT, research 1979, 1991 in an in depth EPA analysis of 2013 woodpiles and said owners in Michigan, Alaska, Maine, Vermont, and New York. Published under Drs. Kevorkian, Gore, Carter in the Journal of Cambiums found that 8 out of 10 woodpiles were better off nude. A fact.
> 
> The Journal of American Psychiatry discovered an alarming rate of an O.C.D. now The Woodpiles of owners obsessing about the level of moisture in their firewood. A fact.
> 
> DO NOT cover. Build.



lol...good post.


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## Wood Doctor (Jun 11, 2010)

logbutcher said:


> Zogby Institute @ MIT, research 1979, 1991 in an in depth EPA analysis of 2013 woodpiles and said owners in Michigan, Alaska, Maine, Vermont, and New York. Published under Drs. Kevorkian, Gore, Carter in the Journal of Cambiums found that 8 out of 10 woodpiles were better off nude. A fact.
> 
> The Journal of American Psychiatry discovered an alarming rate of an O.C.D. now The Woodpiles of owners obsessing about the level of moisture in their firewood. A fact.
> 
> DO NOT cover. Build.


Fabulous post. My suspicions are confirmed. Another point: wasps love to build nests under tarps.


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## spike60 (Jun 11, 2010)

Wood Doctor said:


> Seriously though, my gut feeling says wind and fresh air dries more wood piles faster than the sun ever did. If you tarp cover the wood, you lose both and the air underneath the tarp turns into a sauna bath.




I agree 100%. I think a tarp on green wood actually _prevents_ the wood from drying. It'll keep the moisture in, more than it keeps the rain out.


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## Elim (Jun 11, 2010)

spike60 said:


> I agree 100%. I think a tarp on green wood actually _prevents_ the wood from drying. It'll keep the moisture in, more than it keeps the rain out.



:agree2:

I am a woodpile nudist as well. I keep it all open out in the sun, and wind till fall. Then move a bit more than what I think I can burn that year under cover into a woodshed. This also helps me keep a method of rotating the oldest wood to the stove first.


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## atlarge54 (Jun 11, 2010)

I have 4 piles of wood setting outdoors. Two have been covered for over a year---the wood is dry-dry-dry. Two are uncovered and the wood is wet to damp. I try to keep the piles off the ground with landscape timbers or skids etc.

Try to keep the naked wood in the bedroom.


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## Blackjack1234 (Jun 11, 2010)

An uncovered pile seems to get the most votes. 

Does it make a difference whether the uncovered wood is stacked or just tossed in a pile?


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## mga (Jun 11, 2010)

Blackjack1234 said:


> An uncovered pile seems to get the most votes.
> 
> Does it make a difference whether the uncovered wood is stacked or just tossed in a pile?



stacked...for air flow


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## Coldfront (Jun 11, 2010)

I cover just the top with old thrown away tin or steel siding or roofing, I never use a tarp, we get a lot of rain and it keeps my wood dry, when the sun beats down on that tin it gets plenty hot under there, but also with good ventilation.


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## NDtreehugger (Jun 11, 2010)

*Government refused to pay me for the study so*

I did the study on my own

The study has been going on for more then 4 years and what I have determend
It is better to be 3 years ahead of wood supply and the fresh wood can sit in the weather un covered.

The 2nd year wood should be covered on the top only

The 3rd year wood should be placed in a wood shelter well covered out of the rain and snow.

If you cut and burn the same year the wood should be cut into 14-18 inch lengths, no wider then 6” at the widest point and stacked loosely off the ground with a cover on the top only when it rains and if you live in a windy area covering the top and sides is recommended when it rains and uncover on clear days 







So 

The way I season wood is
1st year it sits in a pile in the weather 
2nd year I stack and cover on the top 
3rd year I cover in a woodshed and burn


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## headleyj (Jun 11, 2010)

no way could I ever get 3 years ahead, hell I'm lucky to be 0.25 yrs ahead


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## logbutcher (Jun 11, 2010)

NDtreehugger said:


> I did the study on my own
> The study has been going on for more then 4 years and what I have determend
> It is better to be 3 years ahead of wood supply and the fresh wood can sit in the weather un covered.
> The 2nd year wood should be covered on the top only
> ...



WOW!! This is a chronic case of The Woodpiles. You need help.

Butt---How the F did you get those red and white letters to stick on all those surfaces: roof, grass, green wood ???????????????????????? :monkey:


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## NDtreehugger (Jun 11, 2010)

*I asked the Gods for help*

and they said OK but only because there were bored


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## cat10ken (Jun 11, 2010)

You are wasting a lot of time and energy if you have to move your wood piles 4 different times. An open sided shed (maybe cattle panels or chain link sides to keep the ranks from tipping over) and a tin roof vented at the top would be perfect.


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## NDtreehugger (Jun 11, 2010)

*More of a space issue*

I split the wood and there it sits until spring and all the wood under shed has been used then the driest wood goes under shed and the pile gets stacked waiting to go under the shed.

Lets see,, dry wood goes under the shed until its full then the remainder gets stacked until the slot is full, WHAT stop splitting wood because there is no room!! Forget it,,,, keep cutting and splitting no room to stack? ,,, leave it in a pile until there’s room to stack. No wasted handling no wasted time just too much wood.

I could leave it outside of town but it seems some folks don’t like to work for there wood and wait for me to stack it so they can get it for free.

The bad part is when they take the wood half way down so they don’t have to bend over, just grab the waist high and higher wood and leave the lower stuff for ME the guy that cut and stacked it…….


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## harrybeaver (Jun 11, 2010)

GlennG said:


> Build a proper wood shed . nothing will touch it, not rain not snow, it will get crispy dry. And stay dry. Building a wood shed is simple and cheap. Best money spent ever.



Now thats what I want! What did you use for the roof? I want the same thing and think the best roof would be corrogated clear pvc panels, allows the light in while keeping the wood dry.


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## NDtreehugger (Jun 11, 2010)

*My little shed holds a bit over 3 cords*

of wood then I keep a cord in the garage for the bad days I dont want to go outside.
The open air storage holds another 4 cords so I can hold 8 cords plus the pile.
I see no need to do it any other way until I get old then Ill just order 3 tons of coal and call it winter.

But when I do get real ambitious I fill the tractor barn it opens at both ends and in the middle.


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## Oldtimer (Jun 11, 2010)

Do not leave it uncovered. Rainfall only prolongs the drying time. Cover it with old used steel roofing. NOT plastic, Not with a tarp, STEEL ROOFING.
The steel keeps it dry, and magnifies the sun's heat.
I have 40 years of this sh!t under my belt. Take my word for it.


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## NDtreehugger (Jun 11, 2010)

*Been doing this awhile myself,*

and when I was younger all I used was metal roofing until the wind blew it all away, 

We get winds in the 90s frequently in the 50s and almost every day in the 20s so plastic is the best way to go.

2 years ago we were curious as to how hot black plastic would make it inside the wood pile if piled in a straight line and 5 foot high then covered with black plastic so we covered it tying it to the pile with the sides flapping in the wind, daily it reached 98degs taking into account the weather here is in the 70s (78 common).
Fresh cut American Elm from living trees dried in 4 months and was used for firewood in the same winter. Clear plastic was a bit hotter and we got to see the moisture drip down the sides and onto the ground.

The added benefit was the morning dew accumulated on the plastic not the wood.

I still cover my wood with a 2ft wide plastic roll it seems to keep most of the rain off the pile.

To each his or her own I like to say


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## DHIBBS75 (Jun 12, 2010)

Sounds like some of yall have got a lot of time to waste on moving wood several times before you burn it.. I used to stack mine on one side of the yard and then only cover it about the first of october a couple of rows. Then I would move a trk load to the basement. I got tired of handling it so many times. so I built a wood shed with a roof and north wall about 50 feet from my basement door. I only have to handle one time once stacked...


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## shepardman (Jun 12, 2010)

Seriously though, my gut feeling says wind and fresh air dries more wood piles faster than the sun ever did. If you tarp cover the wood, you lose both and the air underneath the tarp turns into a sauna bath.[/QUOTE]

Definitely agree. I'm fortunate to live 5 miles up a peninsula and my pallets of hardwood are constantly being blasted with those southwesterly "off the watah", as we say, winds. I had 16" splits of oak that were cut (tree was felled) in Oct. and were in the Jotul in March.
Fran


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## NDtreehugger (Jun 12, 2010)

*I used to be able to cut and leave it by the side of the road*

but things have changed.

Now if I cut then stack the wood behind the farm house or in the tree stand when I go back to get it in a few months its gone.

Too many people that didn’t grow-up here have moved in with a different set of morels.
Now days you can feel it the second you fire up the saw. Turn around there is a line of people waiting for you to turn your back so they can load there truck with your sweat & blood to heat there house with out as much as a thank you, so now if we want to keep our wood we have to handle it.

Were waiting for the day retribution, its comming :chainsawguy:


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## logbutcher (Jun 12, 2010)

NDtreehugger said:


> but things have changed.
> Now if I cut then stack the wood behind the farm house or in the tree stand when I go back to get it in a few months its gone.
> 
> *Too many people that didn’t grow-up here have moved in with a different set of morels.*Now days you can feel it the second you fire up the saw. Turn around there is a line of people waiting for you to turn your back so they can load there truck with your sweat & blood to heat there house with out as much as a thank you, so now if we want to keep our wood we have to handle it.
> ...



Yeah, those damned mushrooms again ! The rapture. :hmm3grin2orange:


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## DSS (Jun 13, 2010)

Can't imagine moving a wood pile three times just to get it to dry better ? My wood pile is split and thrown randomly on top of some old pallets. DO NOT TOUCH FOR TWO SUMMERS !!!!!!
Rain does not soak into dry firewood. Covering the pile is bs in my opinion. Let mother nature at it. Sun and wind will find their way to the bottom of the pile.
Sure you can stack it if it makes you feel better, or you don't like it messy, but it's not necessary.
I always figured there was something better to get anal about than the wood pile. Keep it simple, cutting wood should be fun.


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## NDtreehugger (Jun 13, 2010)

*Funny how a PUN on research turns to anal ~*

Were not very anal around here. we cut our white ash in the summer and burn it the same winter.

The only way it sits for 2 years around here is if we get an over abundance of wood then we stack it anywhere we can to keep the thief’s from steeling it, if that calls for 3 times or more then fine 3 times or more it is.

Depending on the year some times were are far too busy to even cut wood in the spring or summer so we cut it in the fall and winter shooting for the tops of dead standing elm and white ash, when that happens we don’t even stack it we just pile it up and burn it as fast as we get it….

2 years really seems kind of anal to me unless you have a lot of wood and cant get to it.

That split pile of wood you see on top will sit there until I get time but this year it will grow to about 10 or 15 cords of ash and some silver birch Im clearing 7 or 8 lots to plant some nice blues....

no pun,,,,, my wood goes from the split pile to a stack just to save space when the kids are helping it goes from the chopping block to a row stack and thats where it sits until it finds it way into the fire, be it covered or not depends on the space I have at the time.. 
But if all I have is green elm it gets stacked and covered on top and when the rains come I cover the sides and uncover for the sun. It all depends on the need but waiting analy for 2 years seems to be over kill just a wewe bit.


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## Rudedog (Jun 13, 2010)

Oldtimer said:


> Do not leave it uncovered. Rainfall only prolongs the drying time. Cover it with old used steel roofing. NOT plastic, Not with a tarp, STEEL ROOFING.
> The steel keeps it dry, and magnifies the sun's heat.
> I have 40 years of this sh!t under my belt. Take my word for it...........



............. I will! I've got some old hvac duct work I can use.


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## nixon (Jun 13, 2010)

I cover the top of the stack with metal roofing as soon as I'm done stacking it . 
I put fairly decent size rocks on the metal to keep it on the stacks,haven't lost any metal due to wind in several years . I do it just to be done with the job ,and the fact that the stacks will sit there for 1 1/2 - 2 years so they should be reasonably seasoned by that time .


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## Oldtimer (Jun 13, 2010)

I use cement blocks or the biggest rocks I can lift to hold the steel down. Now and again we'll get a 50-60 mph wind and it'll take flight....but then again so would about any kind of covering.
Take a trip up through NH and Maine, look behind the old farms and weather-worn houses...the true New England Yankee either puts his wood in a barn/shed or he covers it with steel roofing. 
You can always tell when a person is "from away", they have blue tarps over the wood.


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## woodhounder (Jun 14, 2010)

I don't think there is a better way to season wood than the hot summer sun beating down on it. It seems to me the quickest way to season wood.


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## headleyj (Jun 14, 2010)

been discussed many times here - Im no ol pro, but I would think it'd be relative.....For example 

ex1 - 2 or 3 years ago we had a dang drought almost in the summer - no wood covering would've been needed then.

ex2 - This year - it's been rain every damned day almost plus 50-60 mph winds - covering would be highly desired I'd think.

So imagine if someone reported their "findings" based on year ex1 only or if their geopgraphic location mimics this weather pattern. Imagine the same thing on ex2.

IMO it's very relative to your amount of rain and your amount of wind/ sun exposure. Again, my opinoin only, not fact.

Full disclosure  my pallets are lined N to S, uncovered, but with our monsoons here lately, I'll be getting metal to cover them this week rather than waiting until the fall rains come.


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## Blackjack1234 (Jun 14, 2010)

headleyj said:


> been discussed many times here - Im no ol pro, but I would think it'd be relative.....For example
> 
> ex1 - 2 or 3 years ago we had a dang drought almost in the summer - no wood covering would've been needed then.
> 
> ...



Good practical post!!! No two summers are the same. 

I have an old hay shed, wood posts and steel roofing, its the perfect wood shed, I can haul my chunks in there with the tractor, split them, and toss them into a pile. The only stacking that I end up doing is on the sides and end to keep it from spilling out. It fits my wood handling philosophy - *The less handling the better!!* - perfectly. 

Problem is, I started using some of the shed for other storage - fishhouse, camper, deer stand wood. I really need to move that other stuff elsewhere!!! Until then I'm forced to throw my split wood in a pile on pallets and try to time the weather in late July/early August when I haul it into my shop for winter burning.


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## NC4TN (Jun 14, 2010)

Wood Doctor said:


> Fabulous post. My suspicions are confirmed. Another point: wasps love to build nests under tarps.



And don't forget the copperheads and rattlesnakes! And, well OK; blacksnakes too. I've found that if the blacksnakes get there first, the copperheads don't bother to come around.


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## logbutcher (Jun 14, 2010)

Oldtimer said:


> I use cement blocks or the biggest rocks I can lift to hold the steel down. Now and again we'll get a 50-60 mph wind and it'll take flight....but then again so would about any kind of covering.
> Take a trip up through NH and Maine, look behind the old farms and weather-worn houses...the true New England Yankee either puts his wood in a barn/shed or he covers it with steel roofing.
> *You can always tell when a person is "from away", they have blue tarps over the wood*.



Now wait one GD minute boy. I'm one of those from away by choice and love. No GD blue tarps on these woodpiles.....mostly the "natives" a.k.a. "locals" who not only cover their firewood with those blue thingees, but bungee the piles tight all around. This "from away" Old Timer has puffed in vain to get them to make a shed or shelter, or at least use solid covers only on top. Evern shared a good microbrew with them. Hey, think you can make old dogs learn.... forget it. 
BTW: you got a firewood shed yet ?  



NDtreehugger said:


> Were not very *anal* around here. we cut our white ash in the summer and burn it the same winter.
> 
> The only way it sits for 2 years around here is if we get an over abundance of wood then we stack it anywhere we can to keep the thief’s from steeling it, if that calls for 3 times or more then fine 3 times or more it is.
> 
> ...



Nailed it ! ANAL it is.:agree2: I'm always impressed by the breadth of intelligence around this site. Next thing you know, we're going to show our professional papers ! 

Who the H has the time to do more than get the firewood a year ahead. We harvest firewood and other all winter ONLY. I helped out to clear some blowdowns this weekend for an elderly couple. After a couple hours in 65 F with mozzies, deerflies, this body was sopping wet. Moldy crotch, wet pits, salt in the eyes. Enough of this 'summer' cutting. How those rebs work the trees I'll never understand. :monkey:

None of this "pile moving", or "5 years ahead". It's bad enough to have C.A.D. or The Woodpiles O.C.D.'s. Too much else going on especially in this short summer Downeast ("poor sledding").

First we have NUDE piles, then we have those anals. What next ? Bipolar cutting ?


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## howellhandmade (Jun 14, 2010)

logbutcher said:


> SNIP
> Who the H has the time to do more than get the firewood a year ahead. We harvest firewood and other all winter ONLY.



I don't think I'm the only one. I agree that cutting in the summer blows, but I haul when I can and pile rounds, then split and stack a little each morning while it's cool until the rounds are gone. Next thing you know, you're a couple of years ahead. In my climate, oak and locust simply burns better the second winter.

Jack


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## logbutcher (Jun 15, 2010)

howellhandmade said:


> I don't think I'm the only one. I agree that cutting in the summer blows, but I haul when I can and pile rounds, then split and stack a little each morning while it's cool until the rounds are gone. Next thing you know, you're a couple of years ahead. In my climate, oak and locust simply burns better the second winter.
> Jack



Exactamon. :agree2: Pile rounds after harvesting. Split and stack (the Zen part of the process) "when you can". 

With little high end hardwoods such as oaks Downeast, I save the few sticks for those single and below winter days. Really no time to wait. If cut, split, and stacked (even nude) the Red Oak burns fine with little sizzle after a year. The cut and noodled dead standing oak cut last Feb and split last week IS completely wet inside (True Confession). It'll be fine for late winter however.

BTW: do you southern guys really get acclimated to high heat and humidity for working ? Any Camp Elgin alumni around ?


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## GlennG (Jun 17, 2010)

harrybeaver said:


> Now thats what I want! What did you use for the roof? I want the same thing and think the best roof would be corrogated clear pvc panels, allows the light in while keeping the wood dry.



Tin Metal roof. Wind is important. Sun not so much really. My shed is built with 6x6 , metal roof and chain link fence. It works.


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## headleyj (Jun 17, 2010)

GlennG said:


> Tin Metal roof. Wind is important. Sun not so much really. My shed is built with 6x6 , metal roof and chain link fence. It works.



chain link - great idea!!!


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## woodhounder (Jun 17, 2010)

You know I would think that a greenhouse would make a great wood shed, open ended with no doors. They get up to about 140 degrees in the summer, plus you would have the wind blowing through it. They are not that expensive to build. I would think you could season wood pretty quickly. The only downfall is you would have to stack it up in the winter- you couldn't stand to be in there in the summer.


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## logbutcher (Jun 17, 2010)

Heat with wood, build a woodshed. 
"Build it and the wood will come."

Enough futzing all over the place about "covers". Whine #___.


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## woodhounder (Jun 17, 2010)

GlennG said:


> Tin Metal roof. Wind is important. Sun not so much really. My shed is built with 6x6 , metal roof and chain link fence. It works.



I don't think we get enough wind here to season wood. I rely more on the sun than wind. Again, I do think that where you are located is going matter.


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## Oldtimer (Jun 17, 2010)

Logbutcher, I do not have a proper woodshed. The Tax bill is high enough already. Waiting for the state to decide a couple of sheets of steel roofing over a stack of wood constitutes a taxable structure.


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## woodhounder (Jun 17, 2010)

yea, you don't want to pay taxes on a woodshed


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## headleyj (Jun 17, 2010)

woodhounder said:


> yea, you don't want to pay taxes on a woodshed



hell no I don't either, but in this county anything greater than 10'x10' with permanent coverage overhead is taxed....I almost used a tarp as a roof, but wifey put the kibosh on that


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## Oldtimer (Jun 17, 2010)

woodhounder said:


> yea, you don't want to pay taxes on a woodshed



If I wanted your opinion, I'd have asked.


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## vincem77 (Jun 17, 2010)

I pile my wood on 4'x8' pallets with about 1ft gap between each pallet for airflow. The wood gets little direct light or rain under a row of pines but plenty of breeze. This past year i covered half my pile with a tarp, and left half with no cover. Overall saw very little difference. The only difference was the top 1ft of the covered pile dried slightly slower than the uncovered. The 5ft of wood below that dried at the same rate covered or not.

Either method will dry the majority of your wood the same. If its extremely rainy cover it. If its not rainy, you are restricting airflow and trapping moisture.


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## woodhounder (Jun 18, 2010)

Oldtimer said:


> If I wanted your opinion, I'd have asked.



That's alright, you get it anyway FREE OF CHARGE.


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## deerlakejens (Jun 20, 2010)

I started out with tarps but ended up with white mildew on a lot of my wood, along with a lot of undesireables like bugs, squirrels and an oppossum. I found some steel panels on CL and they are perfect when tied down on top, as Oldtimer stated. I stack my wood on pallets placed end to end and then run a rope from one pallet up the end of the pile, over the steel roofing, down the other end, through the pallet and back up and over all the way back to the original pallet. Haven't had any blow off yet, though we don't get many gales here. I also had two piles in the full sun and two piles in complete shade. I watched them closely watching for checking on the ends and lifting to feel weight loss, not exactly scientific but it convinced me. They both seasoned at the same rate so I stack all of mine in the shade now so I dont have to trim grass or weeds around them. Stacks in the shade are less conspicuous as well. My two cents.


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## logbutcher (Jun 20, 2010)

deerlakejens said:


> I started out with tarps but ended up with white mildew on a lot of my wood, along with a lot of undesireables like bugs, squirrels and an oppossum. I found some steel panels on CL and they are perfect when tied down on top, as Oldtimer stated. I stack my wood on pallets placed end to end and then run a rope from one pallet up the end of the pile, over the steel roofing, down the other end, through the pallet and back up and over all the way back to the original pallet. Haven't had any blow off yet, though we don't get many gales here. I also had two piles in the full sun and two piles in complete shade. I watched them closely watching for checking on the ends and lifting to feel weight loss, not exactly scientific but it convinced me. They both seasoned at the same rate so I stack all of mine in the shade now so I dont have to trim grass or weeds around them. Stacks in the shade are less conspicuous as well. My two cents.



Can we please get rid of Mickey Mouse coverings ? Pretty please ?
Geez: ties, holy tarps, bungees, lines, scrap roofing, soon we'll be reading about potato skins and bark coverings.:hmm3grin2orange:

BUILD IT


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## NC4TN (Jun 20, 2010)

> BTW: do you southern guys really get acclimated to high heat and humidity for working ? Any Camp Elgin alumni around ?



Yep.....especially if you played football in the south as a kid:

You're out on the practice field and pass out from heat stroke. The coach comes up and pours a little dab of RC cola on your face; you come to and he says: "now get your ass up and go to the locker room, take a couple salt pills and you'll be alright, son"! 

I think you have to get acclimated or else nothing would get done. And you have to teach your family to tolerate a little BO, and don't worry about wearing out the washing machine! LOL


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## NDtreehugger (Jun 20, 2010)

*This year we will most likly be a bit anal*

With lots and lots of ash to be cut we will be stacking analy with 3 or 4 years ahead could be more if I get lucky, no way it will all get split this year we will be doing good just to get it off the ground.......


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## howellhandmade (Jun 20, 2010)

logbutcher said:


> Can we please get rid of Mickey Mouse coverings ? Pretty please ?
> Geez: ties, holy tarps, bungees, lines, scrap roofing, soon we'll be reading about potato skins and bark coverings.:hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> BUILD IT



I don't understand your plea. With due respect, what difference does it make to you if I cover my stacks with whatever I choose? I think we can see from the range of responses that whether a guy covers his stacks and with what depends on a number of things. What species? What climate? How sunny/windy the spot? How soon will the wood be used? In what? How dry does your wood need to be? How aggressive are the local building inspectors/tax collectors when a guy starts building a wood shed?

All the factors interrelate. Oak that may be perfect to burn for you in six months takes considerably longer for me. Your rainfall and humidity may be low enough that covering a stack seems like a waste of time, or maybe you use it fast, or maybe you've got a primo shed already. Summers here vary, but are generally somewhat humid, and we get lots of storms with heavy rain. My experience indicates that keeping wood stacked off the ground, in a sunny spot, and covered just on top so that the heavy rains are shed but the sides are open so that what drying wind can blow through, gets wood as dry as local conditions can get it, and my EPA insert likes very dry wood. And I like not having to break firewood out of an ice jam with a sledge in the winter. I'd be glad to build a shed, but don't want to pay more property taxes. So, despite your request, I reckon I'll continue covering my stacks with whatever "Mickey Mouse" expedient seems best at the time. Anybody who has an estabished routine, covering or not, that gets seasoned firewood to the firebox on time, you are doing it right. Anyone who isn't sure what to do, look at where the various writers live. And then experiment. I wouldn't necessarily expect advice from someone in either Maine or Tenessee to apply to me, or my advice (which remains to cover the top of stacks) to apply to someone in Arizona. And even around here I see lots of uncovered (or excessively covered) firewood stacks that look like rotting messes to me but presumably are satisfactory to their owners.

To each his own.

Jack


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## logbutcher (Jun 21, 2010)

howellhandmade said:


> I don't understand your plea. With due respect, what difference does it make to you if I cover my stacks with whatever I choose? I think we can see from the range of responses that whether a guy covers his stacks and with what depends on a number of things. What species? What climate? How sunny/windy the spot? How soon will the wood be used? In what? How dry does your wood need to be? How aggressive are the local building inspectors/tax collectors when a guy starts building a wood shed?
> 
> All the factors interrelate. Oak that may be perfect to burn for you in six months takes considerably longer for me. Your rainfall and humidity may be low enough that covering a stack seems like a waste of time, or maybe you use it fast, or maybe you've got a primo shed already. Summers here vary, but are generally somewhat humid, and we get lots of storms with heavy rain. My experience indicates that keeping wood stacked off the ground, in a sunny spot, and covered just on top so that the heavy rains are shed but the sides are open so that what drying wind can blow through, gets wood as dry as local conditions can get it, and my EPA insert likes very dry wood. And I like not having to break firewood out of an ice jam with a sledge in the winter. I'd be glad to build a shed, but don't want to pay more property taxes. So, despite your request, I reckon I'll continue covering my stacks with whatever "Mickey Mouse" expedient seems best at the time. Anybody who has an estabished routine, covering or not, that gets seasoned firewood to the firebox on time, you are doing it right. Anyone who isn't sure what to do, look at where the various writers live. And then experiment. I wouldn't necessarily expect advice from someone in either Maine or Tenessee to apply to me, or my advice (which remains to cover the top of stacks) to apply to someone in Arizona. And even around here I see lots of uncovered (or excessively covered) firewood stacks that look like rotting messes to me but presumably are satisfactory to their owners.
> 
> ...



:agree2: Whew, glad we got it out.


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## william lawson (May 4, 2014)

bassman1641 said:


> I have 5 cords split and stacked in sunny breezy spot should i cover top during seasoning or let sun beat down on it ?


yes cover, i didnt last year and couldnt burn. i use a piece of plywood, take a 4X8, cut in half and place on top of stack, lets in plenty of air and sun but keeps most of rain and snow out. the stack i did cover last year burned great, the uncovered sizzled and hissed all day


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## svk (May 4, 2014)

I usually cover the top but not the sides. Let the sun beat on it and the wind blow through it. I generally use tarpaper as the black sucks up the sun's heat to dry up the top pieces. 

Up here it's important to cover before winter as October/November can get pretty rainy if the temp doesn't drop. It's a pain to have to hit the top layer of your pile with a sledge to free things up when we get a freezing rain followed by snow in late fall and then haul wood in with an inch of ice stuck to it. 

I covered a pile with a blue tarp one time and anything touching the ground under there was rotten in three years despite never having a drop of water hit it.


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## Thomas Venditto (May 10, 2014)

Sorry, but I always cover my wood. I hate the sight of uncovered wood pile! It's like leaving your tractor out in the rain. Still, I know lots of folks burn more than me and live in differnt climates. I'm in NY about 50mi north of NYC. Uncovered wood just rots, especially softer stuff like maple.

I stack on pallets and cover the top (only) with clear plastic, then a tarp(usually brown. looks better). I go down about 8" on each side and staple it good. Make the center higher so water doesn't sit there. I dry most of my stock 2 years, especially hard stuff like oak, hickory and LOCUST.

As for splitting (I know nobody ask LOL), I've been trending to split them smaller and smaller. I find the fire starts better and wood burns hotter and more efficiently. I guess I'm talking like 4-5" dia. I still make a few "over nighters" about double that size.
TomJV


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## Dirtboy (May 11, 2014)

A strip of black plastic weighed down on top, sides uncovered during the warm months. When rainy season comes- about October-the pile I'm using that winter (which has seasoned about a year or 2) gets tarped over the long sides to the ground, sides open. I also have a 2X4 running over the top to "tent" the tarp so its not laying on the wood, and is shedding the rain & snow. I hate chipping ice!


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## Erik B (May 11, 2014)

GlennG said:


> Tin Metal roof. Wind is important. Sun not so much really. My shed is built with 6x6 , metal roof and chain link fence. It works.


Do you have any pics of your wood shed?


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## Heavy26R (May 11, 2014)

Depends on location. Specifically humidity in summer. I borrowed wood from a cover all year long believer here in VA, full of beatles and punky. I never cover, and even after a winter rain it's dry in two days. I cover before long rains and snow in winter, otherwise naked in sun.


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## mr.finn (May 12, 2014)

I was able to get a hold of some rubber roll roofing recently. 20x20' pieces from a roofing co. he had a trailer full and said take as much as you want. My plan is to cut it into strips about 24-30" wide and use those to throw on top of the stacks. I figure cover the top but not the sides. The rubber is kind of heavy so it should stay in place.


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## chads (May 12, 2014)

I have a couple of pieces of the rubber roofing left over 3x20 I just stacked up two stacks next to each other and rolled it out on top.
I tried to make the water shed and put a final row of splits on top to hold it down,sides left open.
When we were pouring the patio the left over concrete was poured along the fence 3 ft wide for wood storage.
Hope it works. I had a bunch of wet wood last year but I only had it seasoned about 6-8 months.
I installed the wood burner last summer so i was behind on wood.
I had a earlier start this year and had about 1/2 cord left we will see how it goes.
I ran into a bunch of ash but most all of it is wet. I am hoping to have over a years put up now with more to come.
Chad


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## CRThomas (Aug 28, 2014)

bassman1641 said:


> I have 5 cords split and stacked in sunny breezy spot should i cover top during seasoning or let sun beat down on it ?


 I stack my wood after I split it then turn the top rolls bark up. The fellow down the street covers his with clear plastic and does not dry any quicker. The only thing I do is stick and stack like you would drying lumber. I keep my wood in big baskets and dino bags I live on a dead end street I set my wood out in the middle of the black top st night I bring it back in to the yard


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## JeffHK454 (Aug 28, 2014)

I cover sometime mid-October just because I hate screwing with the stuff if it's wet or snow covered and it's burning time. I've also never covered unseasoned wood or tried using certain types or colors of tarps to speed the curing process. Firewood burning never seemed overly complicated ..I don't measure it or segregate it and I put as little effort into moving and stacking it as possible.


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## Jutt (Aug 28, 2014)

No, the climate here doesn't really require covering wood but my uncovered stuff gets moved to a covered patio which holds about a week's worth. Any snow gets knocked off from the move to the covered patio. Predominately light and fluffy snow, low moisture content, easy to knock off.

If I were back east (grew up in SW Virginia) I would have a wood shed if allowed. That said, I'm considering building a wood shed next year to better consolidate my stacks.


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## Toxic2 (Aug 28, 2014)

I need my currently 12 cord pile to last at least two years as i only burn 7 a year and have anther 10 already in my basement. i have never been this far ahead before..i leave the wood stacked for a couple monyhs uncoverex to dry and then tarp the top. i have left wood uncovered in our canadian winters before for mutiple years and its not in the best of shape


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## Thomas Venditto (Aug 29, 2014)

chads said:


> I have a couple of pieces of the rubber roofing left over 3x20 I just stacked up two stacks next to each other and rolled it out on top.
> I tried to make the water shed and put a final row of splits on top to hold it down,sides left open.
> When we were pouring the patio the left over concrete was poured along the fence 3 ft wide for wood storage.
> Hope it works. I had a bunch of wet wood last year but I only had it seasoned about 6-8 months.
> ...


" Ash wood wet or ash wood dry, the king shall warm his slippers by!" 
An old wood cutter's poem.


Beechwood fires are bright and clear
If the logs are kept a year,
Chestnut's only good they say,
If for long 'tis laid away.
Make a fire of Elder tree,
Death within your house will be.
Birch and fir logs burn too fast
Blaze up bright and do not last,
It is by the Irish said
Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread.
Elm wood burns like churchyard mould,
E'en the very flames are cold.
Poplar gives a bitter smoke,
Fills your eyes and makes you choke,
Apple wood will scent your room
Pear wood smells like flowers in bloom
Oaken logs, if dry and old
keep away the winter's cold
But Ash wood wet or Ash wood dry
a king shall warm his slippers by.

Just cut/split and stack the ash. I like to cover the top(only). You'll be fine by winter. If you have time and space, stack it in "air stacks". 2 left facing, 2 right etc. This makes it dry QUICK. I still cover the top. 
Also, I keep the stack high in the center, so the water/snow runs off the tarp.
TomJV


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## tla100 (Aug 29, 2014)

I am keeping uncovered until winter and will put inside


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## tla100 (Aug 29, 2014)

open bottom for airflow


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