# Poulan carburetor adjustment



## Munchausen

Being so cheap will be my downfall. Led by price alone, I goofed up and bought a Poulan Wood Shark Model 1500
14-inch bar, 36 cc a couple of years ago. 

My ECHO 452-VL -- easy to repair, adjust and use -- was getting a little too heavy to haul into trees with me. So I purchased the Poulan. Over time, it got to where it wouldn't keep running without fairly constant pressure on the trigger. So, I did what I always do with my ECHO. I attempted to adjust the carburetor by turning the two slotted screw adjustments (Blue for low and Red for high). Unfortunately, I didn't improve matters any. So, I contacted Poulan and asked for a copy of its service manual. The Poulan representative refused -- albeit politely -- explaining it's against Poulan's policy to explain how to adjust its saws. In fact, the tech told me I would have to take it to an authorized Poulan service tech. Frankly, that irritated me no end. I will not pay $25.00 to have someone else do something that I can do myself. So, since I am heck bent on doing this myself, can anybody tell me how to adjust the darned thing, i.e., the number of turns on each screw adjustment?


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## John Paul Sanborn

you may find better answers in the chainsaw forum


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## rahtreelimbs

*Carb Adj.*

The first thing I would do is lose the carb limiter caps. They come off easily with pliers. Start with 1 1/4 turns on the mixture screws. Just make sure your air cleaner is clean before you start the adjustments. Rich.


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## Munchausen

*Limiter caps?*

Where are they located, sir? I'm a novice when it comes to these late model saws. I've been using my ECHO -- and only my ECHO -- since about 1975 or 1976. Concepts such as "limiter caps" are beyond my ken at present. But I want to learn. Could you please be a little more specific?


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## rahtreelimbs

*carb adj.*

The limiter caps are small plastic caps that are on the carbs mixture adjustment screws. They limit how much you can turn ( adjust ) these screws. Hope this helps. Rich.


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## Munchausen

*Mixture screws are . . .*

. . . the red and blue screws, right?


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## Munchausen

*Just yank the red and blue . . .*

. . . plastic caps off, correct? Then, I just twist the screws that remain beneath the plastic ones until I reach the proper adjustment. Correct?


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## Kneejerk Bombas

Yes.
First clean out the saw. Compressed air blown all over, incuding the air cleaner.
These little reed valve motors run bad if there is a little something stuck in the reed. Have a look at that.
To set the low speed, set the low speed screw at 1 turn. Start the saw and warm it up. Set idle screw so it idles. 
If it bogs down when you hit the throttle, richen it up(counter clock wise). Let it idle for 20 seconds and tip the saw forward. If it stalls, then lean it out. If it passes the bog and stall tests, the low speed is set.


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## mikey

Your saw may not have the caps.If you can turn the mixture screws complete turns,it does not have them.I believe Rich is saying 1st-Air filterclean,2nd-run the mixture screws all the way in ,then out 1 &1/4turns.Turning the screws in leans it and out richens it up.I would leave the high speed adjust alone(for now) and work on the slow speed 1st. Good Luck.


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## Kneejerk Bombas

The high speed is tricky, too lean and kaboom, no more saw. Too rich and it's slow, lacks power, and spits unburned gas.
Safest to use a tachometer and set to factory RPM.
My way is to hold throttle on full and listen to the sound. It will sputter a bit on the rich side, then start whining and going real fast, on the lean side. Adjust back and forth between these two settings and then set it at just richer than where it starts to race.


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## Kneejerk Bombas

Mikey, he is talking red and blue caps, those are limiters. Get rid of them.
Next, on to muffler modification...


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## Munchausen

*Tachometer*

Sounds like a tachometer would be a very good investment for both of my saws. I don't have any idea what Poulan's factory RPM specs are because Poulan won't reveal that vital information because, I suspect, it would lead to the downfall of civilization as we've come to love and enjoy it.

Since tomorrow is Sunday and the only places open in my neck of the woods that might sell tachometers is an auto parts store, I wonder whether anyone might be able to suggest a tach that I could purchase in such an establishment.


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## mikey

Hi Mike,I read what Rich posted and misunderstood.Sorry bout that.


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## Kneejerk Bombas

The tach will set you back around $100! Go for the audio adjustment I spoke of. What is the worst that could happen, you wreck that crappy saw and have to buy a real one?


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## mikey

Hey Munchausen,I'm close by,If you like, let me know,I can help you set you carb.Maybe meet you at the BIG CHICKEN!


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## Kneejerk Bombas

I would guess that poulan is an 8000 RPM motor, maybe 10,000.

You know why they are called poulan don't you? It's because you're always pulling, and never cutting!


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## Stumper

Mike, I know you hate Poulans so I have to pester you a bit. I don't know what the RPM specs are for the little consumer saws is (Though you are right on the money for the old top handle 2000) My Poulan Pro 330 has the rpm specs on the case 13,800-love that cheap saw. It starts easy and cuts great. Probably the best power to weight ratio in my arsenal. Definitely my most used ground saw. 

Munchausen, you've recieved good advice. IF the saw can't be adjusted to run right you may have to have a carb rebuild (or worse-but the saw isn't worth an actual overhaul) A carb kit should set you back $10 and it is easy to install if you pay careful attention to the disassembly.


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## Munchausen

*Carb rebuild*

Where would I find a carb rebuild kit? I'm the meticulous type who will videotape the disassembly process to ensure I reassemble it correctly. So, hopefully, I'll at least know how to put it back together again, even if I don't do it correctly.


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## Stumper

You should be able to get it at any small engine repair shop. Chances are good that they'll have it in stock but if not they should be able to order it.


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## Fish

Since the saw is an electrolux hybrid, check the little impulse line
going from the carb to the engine, as well as the line to the fuel 
tank. Trying to adjust a carb to get a saw to run is usually
a poor idea, as there is a problem that needs fixed.
As far as hating to pay for someone to work on the saw,
I feel the same way about having to hire a lawyer.


I thought Poulans were just green Husqvarnas anyway.


Seriously, if the saw is only 2 years old, and the fuel and
impulse lines are OK, just take the carb apart and clean it out
and reassemble using the old diaphragms.


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## paragon

Mike Maas said:


> Yes.
> First clean out the saw. Compressed air blown all over, incuding the air cleaner.
> These little reed valve motors run bad if there is a little something stuck in the reed. Have a look at that.
> To set the low speed, set the low speed screw at 1 turn. Start the saw and warm it up. Set idle screw so it idles.
> If it bogs down when you hit the throttle, richen it up(counter clock wise). Let it idle for 20 seconds and tip the saw forward. If it stalls, then lean it out. If it passes the bog and stall tests, the low speed is set.



Where is the "reed valve"? How do I check it?


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## scottr

Paragon , what's the model number of your saw ?


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## Elmore

I'd bet that it is piston ported and the max RPM is about 12,500.


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## PES+

*Yup no reed*

Piston ported....though I do not recall ever seeing a 1500 woodshark. Can you double check the model number?
If it is a 1975 woodshark it depends on which carb it has if a kit is available. Poulans answer is to sell you a whole carb for around 25 bucks.


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## Elmore

Maybe a PoulanPRO model 210. 36cc and 12,600 RPM, free speed

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...3437411440f1424088256f7e0015412d?OpenDocument

Or a Poulan model 2250, piston ported

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...3437411440f1424088256f7e0015412d?OpenDocument

My guess is that it is one of these. If bar size is a good indication then I would say it is a 210. Regardless I think that they are both piston ported saws and if you clean your air filter well, fill the tank with fuel, warm it up at idle (if it will) for 3 minutes you can adjust the carburetor to turn up to about 12,600. I have a grey Craftsman, given to me in '97, that I think is one of these. It came with a 16" bar so maybe it is the 2250. It never seemed to run real well until I came to ArboristSite. I took the limiter caps off and adjusted it by ear...leaning it out till it screams then back counterclockwise until it just blubbered or 4-stroked a bit. I haven't used a tach on it yet but I will soon. When I adjusted my blue Dolmar 111i by ear, then put a tack on it, it was running just a tad fast so I can appreciate a tach to fine tune it accurately. Make sure that you have springs on those adjuster screws. If not you might need to reinstall the caps to keep the screws from vibrating out of adjustment. I know what you mean about the folks at Poulan...but if you keep screaming at them long enough and calling often enough you might get some answers. The definitive answer that I recently received about a carb came from the people at Walbro. Poulan gave me different, incomplete and inaccurate answers.
Compared to my German saw the response, when adjusting the high screw, on the Poulan was a lot slower therefore more difficult but it can be done and now this little saw cuts real well.


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## paragon

scottr said:


> Paragon , what's the model number of your saw ?



It is a Poulan 221LE Pro - 40 cc. My problem is, since I moved to high country (9,400 ft) when it gets good and warm (after cutting wood for about 1/2 hr) it runs a little flaky and won't start if it sets without running for a few minutes. Then I have to wait a long time for it to completely cool down. I made a tool for adjusting the high/low and at about 1 turn open on each it still does the same thing.


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## scottr

*No reed valve*



paragon said:


> It is a Poulan 221LE Pro - 40 cc. My problem is, since I moved to high country (9,400 ft) when it gets good and warm (after cutting wood for about 1/2 hr) it runs a little flaky and won't start if it sets without running for a few minutes. Then I have to wait a long time for it to completely cool down. I made a tool for adjusting the high/low and at about 1 turn open on each it still does the same thing.



Paragon , the 1 turn out from lightly seated is to get the saw to run then it is necessary to fine tune . I would guess that it is set rich . The IPL shows that your saw has the newer restricted muffler . Have you checked the screen on the back of the muffler ?http://www.odref.com/poulan/pdf/POULAN-PRO/gas-saws/pp221-le.pdf


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## paragon

Scott:

Engine cooling is reduced with the thin air at 9,400 ft, so I'm thinking it should be a little on the rich side. I will try leaning it a little, but I doubt that is what is making it not start when warm after setting a while. I checked the spark arrestor screen, and it was fine, thanks. Someone said it could be a problem with the fuel tank vent. I guess I'll look into that. I have noticed after running a while there is pressure in the fuel tank, which doesn't seem right. Do you know where the "reed valve" is and how I'd check it? Any idea if that could cause this?


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## scottr

paragon said:


> Scott:
> 
> Engine cooling is reduced with the thin air at 9,400 ft, so I'm thinking it should be a little on the rich side. I will try leaning it a little, but I doubt that is what is making it not start when warm after setting a while. I checked the spark arrestor screen, and it was fine, thanks. Someone said it could be a problem with the fuel tank vent. I guess I'll look into that. I have noticed after running a while there is pressure in the fuel tank, which doesn't seem right. Do you know where the "reed valve" is and how I'd check it? Any idea if that could cause this?



Paragon , your PP221LE does not have a reed valve . My previous post was titled no reed valve . Your saw also has has the same gas tank cap as my PP220 and it is a pressurized gas tank . Sometimes the pressure will spew out the check ball that is visable in the center of the gas cap and it will spew when you open the cap to refill . I've had my PP220 for 3.5 years and it was difficult to start hot before I opened up the muffler outlet but pushing the primer bulb a couple times and using the fast idle position on the choke lever should help . My saw looks the same but has the black muffler with the rear outlet where yours has the silver muffler that I believe has more internal restrictions . The IPL that is in my previous post does not show the PP221LE muffler internal structure . I think it is a cat muffler .


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## hyakunen

*cheap tool*

My Poulan PP4218avx has carburetor screws, but they are splined....that is, they have longitudinal ribs and they are buried pretty well under the pretty plastic. There are access holes however, marked H and L. Yeah, there's a special tool, but if you buy a piece of clear plastic tubing at the hardware store (about an inch or two will do), the correct size will fit perfectly over the splined screws, and the other end of your little piece of tubing will fit perfectly over a suitable small phillips screwdriver. Have fun... costs about a dime or so. Hyakunen


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## S1838

*Poulan/snapper carb adjust*

can any of ya all tell me initial carb settings for a snapper model s1838 saw?
Poulan made it,has them funky screws with no slots for screw driver,but 3 minutes with my dremel,and cutting wheel cured that.Now I need initial setting for high,and low jets,as somebody worked on it,before I got it,and screwed with carb.


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## JohnL

try 1 turn out for each, no more that 1 1/2. That is only to get it running, then it is important to fine tune it or it will not last very long. Adjust H screw while running at wide open throttle, find where it runs the fastest, then richen it (counterclockwise) until it just starts to slow down some. Adjust L screw at idle for smoothness, give it full throttle it should not stumble, if it does turn L screw a touch counterclockwise, repeat...


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## S1838

*thanks*

should get me going


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## mrinds

*poulan pro 42cc*

went through the paces regarding the carb settings, start off 1/whole turn out, on each. set the low quarter turn at a time. set the high full throttle in between spitting and the running too fast. Still, when I tip the saw or give it throttle it wants to quit like its choking. any ideas?? Any help greatly appreciated. Mike/ Note that compression is only 100


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## nmurph

two ideas; its a poulan pro and it only has 100psi compression (too low for most saws to run correctly).


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## KRP

*?*

The OP started this thread on 8/31/2002. Hey MRINDS I suggest you start a new thread including a model number of your Poulan. You will get all the accurate help you need.


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## mrinds

Nmurph, I think you are correct. The saw itself is junk, furthermore since it's compression is so low. I'll never get it to run idle and cut in it's present comdition. Thx for the thought.


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