# New Stainless Portawrap IV



## randyg (May 2, 2010)

For a limited time for same price as steel, the stainless looks like a wise purchase. Never worry about rust. Has anyone tried one of these yet? Any reasons to steer clear? I have an aluminum portawrap III and 2 homemade bollard style lowering devices with 6" steel pipe (one fits in 2" receiver, and other fastens to tree with strap). Unless someone can give me a really good reason WHY NOT, I think I need to order one of these before the price goes up. Comments????


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## Nailsbeats (May 3, 2010)

Then I think you need to do it. They look nice and I'm sure they are. Unless it never gets used, rust isn't an issue with a steel porty. Rope'll burn that right off.


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## randyg (May 3, 2010)

Nailsbeats said:


> Then I think you need to do it. They look nice and I'm sure they are. Unless it never gets used, rust isn't an issue with a steel porty. Rope'll burn that right off.



Thanks for reply and probably right about burning rust off. My larger brakes sometimes don't come out for 2 or 3 weeks at a time, long enough to get a bit of rust depending on time of year. Slight pitting is hard on rope.


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## pdqdl (May 4, 2010)

My nickle plated one still looks new. Stainless is probably superior.

I don't doubt that the manufacturer has decided that painting is more expensive than paying extra for the stainless materials or nickle plating. It could also be that nobody was buying the stainless version, and they were soaking up somebody's inventory dollars.


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## Sunrise Guy (May 4, 2010)

Never a rust problem on my old porty. We keep it clean. I think stainless might have a nice "Wow!" factor, though.


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## randyg (May 4, 2010)

Sunrise Guy said:


> Never a rust problem on my old porty. We keep it clean. I think stainless might have a nice "Wow!" factor, though.



Wow factor? I need all the help I can get. Its ordered.


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## sgreanbeans (May 5, 2010)

What about the Mini's, my guy wants me to get one for when he is in the tree. Any body use those up there?


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## randyg (May 5, 2010)

sgreanbeans said:


> What about the Mini's, my guy wants me to get one for when he is in the tree. Any body use those up there?



Not sure about the mini's, I use the aluminum in the tree and love it.


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## unatool (Jun 5, 2010)

*made in China?*

I heard the Sherrills stainless potawrap is made in China... not Buckingham. That is a bummer - I think the stainless looks cool!
What's up with Sherrills and the China connection?


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## treesquirrel (Jun 5, 2010)

sgreanbeans said:


> What about the Mini's, my guy wants me to get one for when he is in the tree. Any body use those up there?



In any tree where I may need to do in tree lowering I will take my small port a wrap. Especially where my ground guy may need to grab the line and pull pieces away from obstacles on the ground. 

Its a common practice for me to tie a mid-line knot leaving a tail of about 20-30 feet for my groundie to grab and pull stuff into the work area. I do the lowering in this scenario. If we are dealing with some obstacles I will rig him a 2-1 MA with a pulley and friction hitch take up so when he pulls pieces towards him it will remain in position. It keeps us from having to bring out more help where there may not be enough work to justify it.


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## D Mc (Jun 5, 2010)

randyg said:


> Unless someone can give me a really good reason WHY NOT, I think I need to order one of these before the price goes up. Comments????



I can't imagine you are going to see any improvement over the aluminum you already have. They work well if kept within their design limits.

If you want something that will take up about the same amount of space in the truck, but has more depth and is rated to hold more than twice the load of a Hobbs lowering device, you might want to try Reggie's RC2000. 

I have one I will be field testing and reporting on soon. 

Dave

http://www.stein-usa.com/proddetail.php?prod=SS-RC2000


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## ozzy42 (Jun 5, 2010)

randyg said:


> I think I need to order one of these before the price goes up. Comments????




Good thing you don't have to order anything across the pond http://treetools.co.nz/_catalog_85175/Lowering_Devices.


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## treeslayer (Jun 5, 2010)

I just got the stainless one, looks good, and works like a porta wrap is supposed to.
made in china is why its cheap. I'd rather buy american, but for a chunk of steel with no moving parts, WTF.


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## treesquirrel (Jun 5, 2010)

unatool said:


> I heard the Sherrills stainless potawrap is made in China... not Buckingham. That is a bummer - I think the stainless looks cool!
> What's up with Sherrills and the China connection?



Where is this information coming from? Sounds a lot like BS to me. More likely someone has an issue with Sherrill and is attempting to tarnish the reputation with some rumor.


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## VA-Sawyer (Jun 5, 2010)

One thing to keep in mind about Stainless Steel, it doesn't conduct heat as well as plain steel. That is why it took so long to get SS brake disks for small planes. They had to develop an alloy of SS that could conduct the heat away from the brake pads. It is very expensive stuff and I'll bet next weeks wages that the SS port-a-wrap isn't made of that material. Lack of thermal conduction will make the friction points run warmer and that means ropes will get hotter as well. Wish they still sold the Aluminum ones.
Rick


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jun 6, 2010)

sgreanbeans said:


> What about the Mini's, my guy wants me to get one for when he is in the tree. Any body use those up there?



They are great for a climber who needs to do some quick self rigging. You can also use them as a tag/drift line on the butt to control swing.


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## randyg (Jun 6, 2010)

*Stainless Steel vs Aluminum porty*

Quality on this new SSteel porty is impeccable. It’s smoother than the aluminum which means an extra wrap or half, and smoother starts and stops. At twice the weight of the aluminum, the ss will probably never make it aloft, but on the ground I prefer it over the alum. as I feel it’s more resistant to nicks and scratches. When rigging with fiddle blocks, I always got an uneasy feeling when attaching that steel biner to the round aluminum stock, like that type of transition was never intended or something? I’ve already used them both at once (alum to secure anchor for pulley at around 40’, and ss for lowering line w/fiddle blocks to pre-tension) all installed from ground. Neither will gather much dust. As for the heat issue, if lowering multiple large pieces, probably a removal and then will strap on homemade bollard style with 6” tube. Porty used for a tag line? I noticed Sherrill not listing aluminum in 2010 catalog but it is still in the on-line cat. for $239 http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Lowering-Devices/Large-Port-A-Wrap-III-832 . Now if only the GRCS was offered in a stainless version for the same price…what’s with this fixation on shiny objects all about with Christmas sooo far off?


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## davethetreeman (Dec 9, 2010)

*???*



unatool said:


> I heard the Sherrills stainless potawrap is made in China... not Buckingham. That is a bummer - I think the stainless looks cool!
> What's up with Sherrills and the China connection?




...that and stainless steel is not as strong as "regular" steel...no iron in the mix...so does shiny porta wrap have a true 2000lb wll? who has tested them? has the porta wrap been tested to failure?
...i like it too and own one but isn't it strength we are after?

..and how can we trust a communist country to produce safe consumer products for us if they are one day wanting and probably going to take over?


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## davethetreeman (Dec 9, 2010)

interesting rick, did not know that..i suppose thats why my instructions say to quickly remove the rope after lowering..and after big pieces, keep a bucket of water close by and sponge it to cool...what is this? sunday night boxing fights? how about a material that can dissipate the heat


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## AT sawyer (Dec 9, 2010)

Just looked at mine -- no country of origin. But whoever did the welds ran nice beads and finished them well.


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## Bigus Termitius (Dec 9, 2010)

I like them fine....but no need with two good steel homemade units. I painted just enough to keep the rust away...the only bare metal is where the ropes run and they stay in a sealed bucket when not in use.

If these are from china....I will not buy on principle.

They might want to take us....who doesn't, but good luck with that. When we get grumpy....we don't play well with others.


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## Kottonwood (Dec 9, 2010)

I bought the ss Porta wrap with that sweet deal, couldn't be happier. Remember though, if your groundies are used to using the nickle plated versions the stainless has much less friction because of how smooth it is. Have them throw in an extra wrap or two, especially with bigger pieces.


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## treeslayer (Dec 9, 2010)

PatriotTreeCO said:


> Remember though, if your groundies are used to using the nickle plated versions the stainless has much less friction because of how smooth it is. *Have them throw in an extra wrap or two, especially with bigger pieces.*



A rather foolish comment. go back to arborist 101 lil boy.:hmm3grin2orange:


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## treeslayer (Dec 10, 2010)

What, no comments from the peanut gallery? 

overwrap my friction device and get an arsewhupping.

this is commercial tree climbing, professionals only.
somebody show oldirty a pic of a portawrap so he knows what I'm talking about....:hmm3grin2orange:
crane jockey, donut eating no roping oversize saw biatch........c'mon justin, bite.:chainsawguy:

god I'm bored.


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## jefflovstrom (Dec 10, 2010)

PatriotTreeCO said:


> I bought the ss Porta wrap with that sweet deal, couldn't be happier. Remember though, if your groundies are used to using the nickle plated versions the stainless has much less friction because of how smooth it is. Have them throw in an extra wrap or two, especially with bigger pieces.



Hope nobody takes your advise. :newbie:
Jeff


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## jefflovstrom (Dec 10, 2010)

So if it is made of cast iron, that would be fewer wraps!
Jeff


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## treeslayer (Dec 10, 2010)

the tree itself works better for a euc man anyway. :hmm3grin2orange:

3 strand manilla bull, a big truck and a 30 pound gear drive.
go old school, then;
eat me. :chainsawguy:

or strap on them gaffs and RUN ME. :hmm3grin2orange:


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## Toddppm (Dec 10, 2010)

The one we have grabs like crazy, no wrap or half a wrap works for most pieces. If the stainless is more slippery I could see having to put an extra wrap on?


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## treeslayer (Dec 11, 2010)

Toddppm said:


> The one we have grabs like crazy, no wrap or half a wrap works for most pieces. If the stainless is more slippery I could see having to put an extra wrap on?



It's not, smoother though.


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## ozzy42 (Dec 11, 2010)

I like this one Metals406 built



Metals406 said:


> A bigger PW than you can buy. . . 3" Barrel and 3/4" CR instead of 11/16".


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## Blakesmaster (Dec 11, 2010)

ozzy42 said:


> I like this one Metals406 built



Looks a lot nicer in my hand, eh ozzy? lol. At least I think it does. Will be putting it through it's first paces on some big oaks Monday. Nate really does some nice work.


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## ozzy42 (Dec 11, 2010)

Yeah ,yeah yeah . Rub it in.

I think I'll copy one when I can get the right sized material.


Won't be as nice as that one made by metals,but,,,,,,


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## Blakesmaster (Dec 11, 2010)

ozzy42 said:


> Yeah ,yeah yeah . Rub it in.
> 
> I think I'll copy one when I can get the right sized material.
> 
> ...



If I wanted to rub it in I would've told you that I only traded him my retired saddle and gaffs for it. lol.


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## jefflovstrom (Dec 11, 2010)

I am a little giddy now, so, how about wrapping the axle of your truck and hitch off the ball??
Jeff


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## Blakesmaster (Dec 11, 2010)

jefflovstrom said:


> I am a little giddy now, so, how about wrapping the axle of your truck and hitch off the ball??
> Jeff



Tried it, truck's too light. lol


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