# reyco super jr 20hp



## billsnogo (Aug 23, 2010)

Work is real slow for my supposedly full time job (plumbers apprentice) and need to start taking in some income again and ran across this machine for sale with its own trailer. Still waiting for details, like hours on it, but thinking about picking it up and doing some small side work grinding smaller sumps (under 40") for part time work.

Working on price but looks like between $3000-3500. Sounds cheap compared to others I have seen. Does this sound like a deal, or average? Not sure if this is a good way to do some part time work, but can not do plumbing or the union will have a fit, and am tired of doing lawn care as there are tons of people willing to do it too cheap to even be worth the trip to me.

Any opinions are welcome.
thanks


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## Mowingman (Aug 23, 2010)

I had a Super Jr. with the 25hp engine and it was a very slow, but dependable machine. The machine you are looking at is not bad for stumps under 18". Anything bigger than 18", it is really slow. 
If it does not have the hydraulic steering, then pass on it. They are very hard to move around without the hyd. steering setup.
Depending on the overall condition, I still think the price is a little high. I would not get the machine if you want to do ANY stumps over 18" dia. It is just too underpowered.
I would say pay no more than $2500.00, and personally, I would not buy it at all if it does not have hydraulic steering.
Jeff


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## Don't-B-Stumped (Aug 23, 2010)

before you buy a grinder check with your county and find out the legal requirements of that business. you may get in trouble with your local code enforcement if you don't do all they require.
here in south fl. in my county you have to have a tree trimming and removal license to grind stumps. if thats the case you may not want to go to all the hassle of getting a contractor license. lots of reading and studying mundane crap that you'll never use and they also require that you have all the insurance of that trade, liability, workmens comp. etc. good luck.


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## lone wolf (Aug 23, 2010)

billsnogo said:


> Work is real slow for my supposedly full time job (plumbers apprentice) and need to start taking in some income again and ran across this machine for sale with its own trailer. Still waiting for details, like hours on it, but thinking about picking it up and doing some small side work grinding smaller sumps (under 40") for part time work.
> 
> Working on price but looks like between $3000-3500. Sounds cheap compared to others I have seen. Does this sound like a deal, or average? Not sure if this is a good way to do some part time work, but can not do plumbing or the union will have a fit, and am tired of doing lawn care as there are tons of people willing to do it too cheap to even be worth the trip to me.
> 
> ...



i had one they break a lot real ##### to work on belts wear out a lot and are expensive as hell. the machine also gets real sloppy in the bushings. and if that is a Honda engine they had a problem from the factory where one cylinder would go bad don't buy it . Get a Vermeer they are so much better.


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## Toddppm (Aug 23, 2010)

That's probably a 1620 machine, alot older than the 1625's . 1625 shouldn't be much more money. 
We've been using a 1625 and had a 1620 a while ago. They're fine machines for what they are. I see no point in spending $30k for such a one purpose machine unless it's getting used all day everyday and ours isn't. 

Did 5- 40" + Oak stumps, some dead, in front and back yard of 1 house that a pull behind couldn't get to within 3 hours not long ago. Ground and raked back into the holes, no problem. I did make sure I had new teeth though, yes regular cheapo teeth.

If I needed a good paying side job that would be it, boring as hell though


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## billsnogo (Aug 24, 2010)

Guy will not reply to messages, so looks like I am still searching. Thanks for the advice so far


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## billsnogo (Aug 29, 2010)

I know they are not very productive machines, but for starting, how about a vermeer sc130 for $2000? Or a bluebird SG1314A new for $2200?

I can't seem to find much for $4000 and under. I really rather pay cash as I do not know if this will be a lucrative, or disastrous adventure, and rather not take a loss and make payments on it.

Going to looking into getting insurance to keep my butt out of hot water too.

any other advice is welcomed, as there are several neighbors that are possible clients.


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## billsnogo (Sep 2, 2010)

Found a rayco 1625 now with trailer, but guy says it does not have an hour meter? Firm on $4800, so will probably pass on that one.


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## BC WetCoast (Sep 3, 2010)

billsnogo said:


> I know they are not very productive machines, but for starting, how about a vermeer sc130 for $2000? Or a bluebird SG1314A new for $2200?
> 
> I can't seem to find much for $4000 and under. I really rather pay cash as I do not know if this will be a lucrative, or disastrous adventure, and rather not take a loss and make payments on it.
> 
> ...



If you are considering using the bluebird, why not see if you can get some jobs then go and rent the machine. You'll make enough to pay for the machine and see if you like it without any capital expenditure.


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## Mowingman (Sep 3, 2010)

That is not a bad price at all, if the machine is in good condition. You might want to go have a look at that one. 
Jeff



billsnogo said:


> Found a rayco 1625 now with trailer, but guy says it does not have an hour meter? Firm on $4800, so will probably pass on that one.


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## billsnogo (Sep 3, 2010)

Mowingman said:


> That is not a bad price at all, if the machine is in good condition. You might want to go have a look at that one.
> Jeff



I am still somewhat interested, but thought they came with an hour meter, and when I asked how many hours, he said he didn't know, it did not have an hour meter.


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## Mowingman (Sep 3, 2010)

Depending on what year model it is, it may not have come with an hour meter.
What kind of trailer is included in the deal? If it is a Rayco trailer, those things are really expensive when bought new.
If you go look at it, check out all the pivot points for tightness. However, do not be alarmed if there is some slop in the joint areas, as most have bushings that can be replaced. The big cost is the electric clutch, if it has the electric clutch. When engaged, it sould engage firmly and quickly. If it seems to spin free for a few seconds before it engages,(makes kind of a hissing/rubbing sound), the clutch could be nearing the end of it's life. The electric clutch is around $300.00 as I recall.
I would open up the belt covers and look at the belts. They should be pretty snug with no major, visible, sag between pulleys. If they are real shiny and kind of hard, then belts might need to be replaced.
Cutter wheel bearings should run quietly, smoothly, and remain fairly cool. Warm to the touch is ok, buy if they get hot, that is not good.
Well, good luck. It might make you a pretty nice little machine at that price if it all checks out. I really like my little Super Jr., just needed to move up to a bigger machine as work increased.
Jeff



billsnogo said:


> I am still somewhat interested, but thought they came with an hour meter, and when I asked how many hours, he said he didn't know, it did not have an hour meter.


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## Don't-B-Stumped (Sep 3, 2010)

i currently have a super jr. 1635 with a briggs vanguard 35hp engine. great economical machine that is actually pretty fast when you get used to using it. its no diesel but for the money they are cheap to run and maintain especially if you can work on it yourself. i eventuall want to move up to a carlton diesel or rayco diesel. i paid 16k for mine new in 2006 but have done thousands of stumps with it.
if yours only has 20-25 hp it won't be as fast but as long as you keep the teeth sharp you can handle any stump. if its in good shape for that money i'd say jump on it.
also the dual wheel kit is awesome. a bit pricey but great in sand or on a side hill. you can change out the wheels in minutes if you need to get in a tight area. 
i recommend green teeth. they are a great design that you can rotate for a fresh edge in the field in minutes. once you get the green teeth setup they are much cheaper to run than the rayco teeth.


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## billsnogo (Sep 3, 2010)

Unfortunatly, it does not come with the dual wheel setup. I will need to look into this one more then


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## billsnogo (Sep 3, 2010)

Sorry, but I am going to drive you guys nuts 

Next a 2004 rayco RG20HD with a new 23hp engine, new teeth and new battery in march for $3000. Still a handle bar machine, but more hp and self propelled.


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## howel07264 (Sep 3, 2010)

billsnogo said:


> I know they are not very productive machines, but for starting, how about a vermeer sc130 for $2000? Or a bluebird SG1314A new for $2200?
> 
> I can't seem to find much for $4000 and under. I really rather pay cash as I do not know if this will be a lucrative, or disastrous adventure, and rather not take a loss and make payments on it.
> 
> ...


If you buy one of these tiny machines you will start day one wishing you waited for something bigger. They are great for turning a 30 minute job into 4 hours hard labor.


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## Mikecutstrees (Sep 4, 2010)

*Small stumpers*

I have a Vermeer 25 hp SC252. We have ground stumps all the way up to 50". Although not ideal the number of stumps we do 30" + does not justify the purchase of a larger stump grinder. We sharpen the teeth alot and keep them very sharp. Be sure to use a dust mask. Sharp teeth on my 252 will out grind a machine twice its size with dull teeth. I used to have a handlebar machine and it was just too hard on the body grinding for any amount of time. I don't wanna be 50 and be a cripple. But newer machines might be easier.

Mike


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## Don't-B-Stumped (Sep 4, 2010)

don't waste your money on a handlebar grinder. those are ok for a homeowner rental for a small stump. too light for any kind of large hardwood or softwood for that matter. my rayco 1635 is almost 1400 lbs and it sometimes will jump if you try to take too big a bite. if you were really busy with a grinder you would want a diesel for the production and weight. for a part timer i would at least get the1625 super jr or its equivalent in a vermeer, or carlton or whatever. i'm a bit partial to the rayco but i'm looking at maybe going with a carlton with remote control. you'll be sorry if you get one of those 2 wheelers.


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## billsnogo (Sep 4, 2010)

Thanks all for the advice, the smallest I will shoot for then is the vermeer 252/carlton 4012/rayco 1625.

I got to play (could not demo) the carlton 4012 with kohler 27hp, hydrolic steering, dual front wheels at our state fair today and the sales man said the lowest he could go was $14,600. Nice machine, but way out of my budget for this startup. Maybe someday.....

the search continues. I will keep asking when I get a good lead.

thanks again


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## billsnogo (Sep 8, 2010)

Okay, found one in my budget, and may even have money left over if repairs are needed.

Vermeer 222, new kohler 25hp (less than 50 hours), extra stock teeth, no hydrolic steering, no trailer, no outer dual wheels, but price is $2000.

What say ye?

He is not far from the $4800 guy, so if for some reason I don't get it, I will stop by and see if they guy could do $4000 as that is the budget at the moment.

edit: where can you buy the dual wheel kit?


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## Don't-B-Stumped (Sep 8, 2010)

billsnogo said:


> Okay, found one in my budget, and may even have money left over if repairs are needed.
> 
> Vermeer 222, new kohler 25hp (less than 50 hours), extra stock teeth, no hydrolic steering, no trailer, no outer dual wheels, but price is $2000.
> 
> ...



If it will take the dual wheel setup you'd have to get that from a dealer that carries vermeer. Should be easy to find. That model may not take the dual wheel. I don't know.
I would hold out for hydraulic steering but that's just me. You can still grind stumps with that one. It'll just take a bit longer. Sounds like the price is good as long as the hydraulics work ok.


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## Mikecutstrees (Sep 8, 2010)

I don't have the hydraulic steering. Its not a big deal for me. I wouldn't worry much about it.

Mike


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## Toddppm (Sep 8, 2010)

The steering isn't a big deal. I didn't like the lag time when those vermeers with the hydraulic cutter drive stops and then slllloowwwwly starts again. But it works and for $2K, it's worth learning on it if checks out.


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## billsnogo (Sep 9, 2010)

Well, I went and picked it up. Will post pics tomorrow, too tired and watching the vikings anyways.

Not too bad shape, has some rust around the door panels, but runs great. Has a drain pipe (actual tail piece from a sink) covering the hydraulic fill, so I need to find a proper cap for that.

Guy said he had a new front wheel, extra teeth, new drive belt, and owners manual up north and will send them when go goes up there. We will see on that.....

couple of quick questions.
1. can I find a manual online? 
2. the clutch kicks in right away when engaged, but when you start the machine up and the clutch is not engaged, as long as the cutting wheel is up it turns slowly, so are the belts too tight?
3. Is it hard to replace the hour meter on these? Would make it easier to keep track of maintenance. 

Man, twelve hours on the road makes ya tired 

thank you all


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## billsnogo (Sep 10, 2010)

Pics as promised


















I called a dealership and they said they could get me the cap for the hydraulic fluid for $15, which sounds better than the tail piece, but all the manuals (owners, repair, parts) will cost me $200 :censored: I need to know how to maintain and repair as needed, so I guess I am stuck. 

I will be buying a grinding screen, pitch fork, have shovels, rake, leaf blower, wheel barrow, but am unsure what I should get as spare parts that may need replacing when working.

Also, looks like the machine does have a small leak somewhere, but need to track it down.


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## Mikecutstrees (Sep 10, 2010)

Looks like a decent machine. I'd get outer wheels for it. Real tippy the way it is. You can get touch up spray paint from vermeer. Make sure to grease the fittings often. And yeah call up vermeer and get the manuals. I have the maint manual, operators manual and parts manual. You can get more pro series teeth too which you can easily resharpen. Good luck..... Mike


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## billsnogo (Sep 10, 2010)

Unfortunately, this machine does not accept the dual wheels. I asked the dealer and they do not show this as an option on this one, unlike the 252 

Is there a good place to get those teeth, or just at the dealer?

thanks again


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## Mikecutstrees (Sep 10, 2010)

I'm sure you could find a way to adapt dual wheels to it. I get my teeth through vermeer but I should find somewhere else cause I'm sure I could find them cheaper. 
Mike


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## Don't-B-Stumped (Sep 11, 2010)

Mikecutstrees said:


> I'm sure you could find a way to adapt dual wheels to it. I get my teeth through vermeer but I should find somewhere else cause I'm sure I could find them cheaper.
> Mike



check out greenteeth.com. they are round and you turn them as they wear. you'll get 3 times the life out of them. i ditched my rayco teeth when i saw what greenteeth would do.


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## Don't-B-Stumped (Sep 11, 2010)

billsnogo said:


> Well, I went and picked it up. Will post pics tomorrow, too tired and watching the vikings anyways.
> 
> Not too bad shape, has some rust around the door panels, but runs great. Has a drain pipe (actual tail piece from a sink) covering the hydraulic fill, so I need to find a proper cap for that.
> 
> ...



the answer to #2 probably is no your belts aren't too tight. they're not supposed to slip anyway unless you take too big a bite and then they'll either slip a bit or you'll stall. the reason your wheel is turning when the clutch isn't engaged is probably just a bit of drag. you can adjust that out with your clutch brake. there are springs in three locations with nuts compressing them around the edge of the clutch. try loosening those nuts a turn and that may stop it from turning. i actually like mine that way as its easier to turn when the machine is off for working on the teeth. its a safety brake that i'm talking about that stops the wheel quickly when you disengage the clutch. its a tradeoff for safety or easy maintenance. just always stay away from that wheel when its running as it can kill you quick.
i'm talking about my rayco clutch but i'm guessing that yours may be similar.
i suggest you check out greenteeth.com as their teeth are cheaper in the long run. their new tap and turn setup will impress you as you can turn the teeth when they're dull and get 3 times the life out of them because they're round


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## Don't-B-Stumped (Sep 11, 2010)

billsnogo said:


> Pics as promised
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 the only spare you'll need while working is some teeth if you hit rock or rebar. you're gonna be amazed the #### that people bury. especially on a new home site. i've had rebar thrown under the machine and into my leg. that hurts. get yourself some good forestry boots and wear some eye protection.
you can probably get by without a manual. if you're somewhat mechanical. your secondary cogged belt to the wheel is probably cogged like a harley belt. make sure that is no more than 1/4'' deflection with a good squeeze. you don't want that one skipping as they're expensive.
your primary belt may be a double v from the looks of the cowling. mine is a triple v. its easy to tighten by sliding the engine. the cogged belt is tightened by sliding the jackshaft and then you have to tighten the v because when you tighten the cogged belt you have loosened the v. you'll get it when you start workin on it. its easy.
make sure your hydraulic oil is clean and your teeth have a nice edge and have fun.


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