# Echo CS-800p setup for milling?



## Matt Enoch (May 21, 2019)

Just picked up a CS-800p with a 2o" and 36" bar along with a few chains for $225. Ive got a 36" granberg mill that I've been using my cs-590 with a 27" bar on, but it tends to struggle. I'm still relatively new to this so I thought I'd ask the experts... 

First... Are there specific bars that are worth the money that better suited for milling than OEM echo bar? If so, suggestions? 

Second... I also I would appreciate suggestions on ripping chains? 

Thanks, 
Matt


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## rarefish383 (May 21, 2019)

I like Echo's and would give your saw a thumbs up. It's not the most powerful, so don't lean on it. Take a look at my Red Oak thread. I just milled this Sunday with a 660, 36" bar, and out of the box 33RS chain. I don't use milling chain because I like to switch back and forth between cutting firewood and milling. Getting a smooth cut is as much technique as equipment. I've seen guys with milling chain post pics way worse than mine, so I've never bothered trying it.


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## andy at clover (May 21, 2019)

You don’t need a fancy bar to cage it up in a mill.
Lightened bars are probably less well suited for milling otherwise I just choose a good cheap solid bar and keep it in good condition.
Your saw may have trouble keeping enough oil flowing for a 36”.
Putting an aux oiler out on the tip will help.
You can even use canola in a spray can if it’s just occasional.
Just spray a big foamy glob on the roller tip before you start your cut.
It will melt out and find it’s way into the bar groove and links.


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## Matt Enoch (May 22, 2019)

andy at clover said:


> You don’t need a fancy bar to cage it up in a mill.
> Lightened bars are probably less well suited for milling otherwise I just choose a good cheap solid bar and keep it in good condition.
> Your saw may have trouble keeping enough oil flowing for a 36”.
> Putting an aux oiler out on the tip will help.
> ...





Thanks for the tips. Is there a ripping chain you suggest since I’m really only going to be using it for milling? My 590 should handle the firewood and other stuff.


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## alleyyooper (May 22, 2019)

My dream set up is a Echo 800P for milling.

I am useing Oregon ripping chain in my Jred but is only a 20 inch bar milling about 14 inch with my h0me built rig.

 Al


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## Matt Enoch (May 22, 2019)

I couldn’t seem to find a rip chain for the 36 bar that was compatible with echo. All they had was 32 and then 100’ and 50’. It probably just my ignorance but I’d some advice on a specific rip chain or Chains that would work with the 36 inch echo bar.


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## rarefish383 (May 22, 2019)

Matt, milling chain costs more and you really don't need it. It's not any faster and I can't see where it's any smoother. My buddy came over to mill one of my Red Oak logs and his cut was way worse than mine. Predominately, because he kept rocking back and forth. Every time you change the angle of the bar it makes a mark. I start my cut with the tip of the bar leading just a couple inches, hold that angle all the way through. Try a fresh 33RS stihl chain, make sure there is no dirt on the log, if there is take a hatchet and peel the bark off. You won't be disappointed. Now, if you "just want" ripping chain by all means get some.


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## Matt Enoch (May 22, 2019)

rarefish383 said:


> Matt, milling chain costs more and you really don't need it. It's not any faster and I can't see where it's any smoother. My buddy came over to mill one of my Red Oak logs and his cut was way worse than mine. Predominately, because he kept rocking back and forth. Every time you change the angle of the bar it makes a mark. I start my cut with the tip of the bar leading just a couple inches, hold that angle all the way through. Try a fresh 33RS stihl chain, make sure there is no dirt on the log, if there is take a hatchet and peel the bark off. You won't be disappointed. Now, if you "just want" ripping chain by all means get some.




Thanks. Will that work on the echo? the echo chain is 116 link whereas the stihl is 114?


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## rarefish383 (May 22, 2019)

Matt Enoch said:


> Thanks. Will that work on the echo? the echo chain is 116 link whereas the stihl is 114?


You may need to find a shop to cut it, mine does. That's where I get all of my Homelite 404 chain. I'm sure one of the sponsor will sell loops. Let me check in the Morning. My Ace Hardware is an Echo dealer and I think they had a 36" on the shelf, if so, they will have a chain.


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## rarefish383 (May 22, 2019)

I did a quick check on ebay and Oregon had it. I like Oregon chain, I just think it's a softer. Files seem to cut quicker and deeper, seems to dull faster.


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## Matt Enoch (May 22, 2019)

Thanks a ton for the help.


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## Maintenance supervisor (May 28, 2019)

Matt Enoch said:


> Thanks a ton for the help.


I use a Granberg ripping chain that has ever other tooth cut down and it leaves a very smooth finish. Granberg is expensive though. We're milling white and chestnut oak with very good results.


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## rarefish383 (May 30, 2019)

Matt Enoch said:


> Thanks a ton for the help.


I went into Ace and the guys that work behind the counter weren't there on Sunday. But, they make a 36" bar for your saw, so I know they can get a chain. It doesn't have to be the Stihl. I do have a couple Oregon chains that work fine, I just think the Stihl steel is harder.


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## andy at clover (May 30, 2019)

rarefish383 said:


> I just think the Stihl steel is harder.


FWIW
I think your right or at least, that has been my experience as well.
Granted, I only use Oregon in my little saw (.325 ). Maybe that smaller chain is not as tough.
It's sure easy to sharpen compared to Stihl chain.


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## Matt Enoch (May 30, 2019)

Are there any mods yall suggest for getting a little more power for when I tackle a 30" oak? I've seen a few things on muffler and carb mods and tuning but didnt know if those were worth it and/or simple enough to learn on the fly. I'm open for suggestions, whether small or big that I should get done. 

Thanks


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## rarefish383 (May 30, 2019)

Back in the day, when mufflers were bolted on, and the seems not welded, we just took all of the guts out. No spark arrester, or baffles. We always thought that got a little more power, with out any other mods. The extra noise might have just sounded like more power. I gave my buddy an old Homelite C5 which is 77CC's and it pulled a 30" bar in Red Oak pretty darn good. Your Echo will rev a lot higher, so will probably cut a little faster. I tend to leave things stock till I see if I like them, others jump in with both feet. I came here in 2009, Semotony came here in 2016. He has leap frogged over me so far I would look to him for advice. I like to pull my saw off the mill and cut firewood, then put it back and mill. If I only used the saw for milling I might try a lot of different stuff. I have over 40 saws and have a hard enough time keeping 5-6 of them in top shape at one time. My way of thinking is if I want more power, get a bigger saw. When I raced cars, race motors never lasted as long as street motors. I still kind of think that way.


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## CR888 (May 31, 2019)

I have a few modified saws & still firmly believe whether milling or cross cutting, a well sharpened chain is a mod hard to beat. Milling is about keeping your saw alive and maximising the power you have through sprockets size, chain & depth gauge angle. A muffler mod, good jetting, good fuel and oil, clean air filter, adequate chain lube with a good chain will help success. Some of these adjustments require testing in the wood your milling.


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## rarefish383 (May 31, 2019)

CR888 said:


> I have a few modified saws & still firmly believe whether milling or cross cutting, a well sharpened chain is a mod hard to beat. Milling is about keeping your saw alive and maximising the power you have through sprockets size, chain & depth gauge angle. A muffler mod, good jetting, good fuel and oil, clean air filter, adequate chain lube with a good chain will help success. Some of these adjustments require testing in the wood your milling.


That is well said. I grew up in the tree business. We always told our guys to keep the saws out of the dirt and they would stay sharp. Our climbers saws would only get touched up once a week or so. They were not on the ground and never hit dirt. Then I started milling. I milled a few slabs of Oak one weekend, then put the saw back on the truck for work. The next weekend I put it back on the mill and it would hardly cut. I accused the guys of hitting dirt with my saw. But, when I looked at it, it looked sharp, definitely hadn't been in dirt. I put a few strokes on the chain and all was good for 3 more slabs and it started to slow way down. That was an AH-HA moment for me. Milling sharp, and bucking sharp, are two different things. The saw that was going real slow on the mill would go through firewood like hot butter. People will come here and say there saw is razor sharp but won't cut. BobL will ask them to post pics, and the chain will look like they were cutting a brick wall with it. NOT saying that is Matt, Just saying that most people don't really know what sharp is. BobL has posted a video of his mill self feeding through a log while he was sipping a cold drink in a lounge chair. A sharp chain will cut. The first mod should be learning how to sharpen a chain to at least factory sharp. Again, well said.


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## tdmiller12 (Sep 15, 2020)

Matt, I realize this is an old thread. How did you like milling with CS-800p? I have similar setup with the CS-590, and would like to upgrade. I was wondering if the CS-800p is enough, or do I need something larger.


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## rarefish383 (Sep 15, 2020)

The CS 800 is 80 CC's so it will do it. I like a Stihl 660 at 90+ CC's better. If I had a a CS800 I'd use it. I don't think I'd go buy one just for milling.


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## tdmiller12 (Sep 15, 2020)

rarefish383 said:


> The CS 800 is 80 CC's so it will do it. I like a Stihl 660 at 90+ CC's better. If I had a a CS800 I'd use it. I don't think I'd go buy one just for milling.


Thanks. Decided to go with a bigger saw.


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## The Singing Arborist (Sep 16, 2020)

I have a CS 800 and I've milled a lot with it. If I were to do it again, I would have gone with the larger saw as well. It has a lot of torque but the lower chain speed seems to slow down the cut. I haven't done any mods to it yet though that has been something I've been kicking around for some time. Good luck.


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## tdmiller12 (Sep 17, 2020)

The Singing Arborist said:


> I have a CS 800 and I've milled a lot with it. If I were to do it again, I would have gone with the larger saw as well. It has a lot of torque but the lower chain speed seems to slow down the cut. I haven't done any mods to it yet though that has been something I've been kicking around for some time. Good luck.


Thanks for the helpful information. I have decided to go with a bigger saw.


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## Captain Bruce (Feb 11, 2022)

Matt Enoch said:


> I couldn’t seem to find a rip chain for the 36 bar that was compatible with echo. All they had was 32 and then 100’ and 50’. It probably just my ignorance but I’d some advice on a specific rip chain or Chains that would work with the 36 inch echo bar.


Echos and chains are always compatible...across the board. So is every other brand of saw. You have a drive sprocket pitch. The chain simply needs to be the same pitch. The gauge needed is dictated by the bar. IE: a 3/8" pitch x .050 gauge x 84dl chain fits a 24" bar, and wouldn't know which saw brand is spinning it. Having said that, go to the source for answers. This is a great forum for opinions.

Oregon has a great printable catalogue showing all of the chains available. Also, Archer makes/sells, a great chain, and since ripping/milling is not the only use for that power head, its good practice to keep a couple a sharp chains at the ready specifically for that milling. As to buying a roll of chain, and the tools to make up chains.......I tried that exercise.


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## Captain Bruce (Feb 11, 2022)

The Singing Arborist said:


> I have a CS 800 and I've milled a lot with it. If I were to do it again, I would have gone with the larger saw as well. It has a lot of torque but the lower chain speed seems to slow down the cut. I haven't done any mods to it yet though that has been something I've been kicking around for some time. Good luck.


Just a question re: your comment about slow chain speed. Did a rim change make any difference? The larger 8-T sprockets/rims seem to speed up the chain?


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## The Singing Arborist (Feb 18, 2022)

You know...I haven't thought about a sprocket change on it. I admittedly don't know how many teeth are on the sprocket on there...7 or 8. I'm going to have to test that out. I've been doing a lot more milling with it over the past couple years and it's grown on me. My mill cuts up to about 29". As long as the chain is sharp and the rakers are set right, it handles the cut just fine. I'm still planning on getting a 395 or 661 this year to upgrade.


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## Captain Bruce (Feb 18, 2022)

The Singing Arborist said:


> You know...I haven't thought about a sprocket change on it. I admittedly don't know how many teeth are on the sprocket on there...7 or 8. I'm going to have to test that out. I've been doing a lot more milling with it over the past couple years and it's grown on me. My mill cuts up to about 29". As long as the chain is sharp and the rakers are set right, it handles the cut just fine. I'm still planning on getting a 395 or 661 this year to upgrade.


There are no teeth on a rim. Its slots for the drive links, and clearly stamped on the face of the rim.......7T or 8T. Madsens website has a 3 page tutorial on the subject. Speed up your chain if milling, given the lack of drag...


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## Parkerpusher (Feb 18, 2022)

rarefish383 said:


> I like Echo's and would give your saw a thumbs up. It's not the most powerful, so don't lean on it. Take a look at my Red Oak thread. I just milled this Sunday with a 660, 36" bar, and out of the box 33RS chain. I don't use milling chain because I like to switch back and forth between cutting firewood and milling. Getting a smooth cut is as much technique as equipment. I've seen guys with milling chain post pics way worse than mine, so I've never bothered trying it.


+1 on this. I’ve gone back and forth with chains and i haven’t seen enough benefit to a ripping chain to use them anymore. Technique from practice is key. Just set up and cut and get the feel for it! 

nothing wrong with a rip chain though. I used to buy Oregon chain and other than being hard to file they seemed pretty good.


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