# Sparkplug wire/spring repair tips



## cj7jeep (Apr 26, 2006)

Need to re-attach the spring at the end of the sparkplug wire on my Stihl 045, no sure if this setup is stock. Is soldering the best way or is there a crimp connector that works well. Any tips appreciated. Thanks for helping out an old man rookie.


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## RES (Apr 26, 2006)

There is no soldering required. If you remove the rubber boot, there is a straight section of wire that extends from the coiled section of wire that connects to the sparkplug. At the end of the straight section of wire there is right angle bend and a short 3/16" section of wire with a sharp edge. You butt the sparkplug wire against the coil section of the wire connector. You then press the sharp 3/16" section into the wire. There should be a hole already in the wire. The straight section of the wire should fit tightly against the sparkplug wire with the coil portion at the end. You can then slip the boot back on, by working the long small diameter opening over the coil and working it back until you see the coil emerge in the big opening of the boot. Somtimes a little lubricant on the rubber boot makes it easier to slip on.


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## HiOctane (Apr 27, 2006)

Its lot easier if you push the boot FIRST down on the wire with some lubricant on it and pulling the wire tru the boot with pliers,then install the connector and bring back the boot over .


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## Fish (Apr 27, 2006)

If you give your saw a rum and coke, and a valium, this procedure is a lot
easier........................ And more fun....


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 27, 2006)

Fish said:


> If you give your saw a rum and coke, and a valium, this procedure is a lot
> easier........................ And more fun....




And take some yourself - especially needed when you punch the wire end into your finger!


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## eyolf (Apr 27, 2006)

Things must be different down there in hillbilly country, fisherizer. Up here in MN it takes a whole lot more than that.

I dislike those coiled wire springy-thing spark plug dealies. When they pull out of the plug wire, they'll never stay again, and come apart every time you pull the boot off the plug. Not a big deal, I guess, if you don't mind messing with them.

Back in the days when I messed with snomobiles a lot, Bosch made a beautiful little silicone-rubber boot, bonded to a bakelite core, that screwed onto the plug wire. These worked equally well with carbon or wire core 6mm wires and will stretch onto a 7mm with no trouble if you use a bit of silicone plumbers grease (works great on the felt wiper on points systems, too...). I don't know of they are still around or not; I have a dozen or so left, carefully hoarded for replacements.

Wouldn't Stihl use something better than them coiled springy things that poke into the wire anyway?


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## Lakeside53 (Apr 27, 2006)

Stihl's been using them for 25+ years on all their equipment. They work fine, but you should not use the same hole again. Stihl says to make a new hole with a sharp probe, then insert the wire and press it in with pliers. If you don't make a hole first, it slips sideways and punches into the finger... and I'm a slow learner


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## RaisedByWolves (Apr 28, 2006)

About 100yrs ago I bought a kit from Accell for making custom length wires to suit your application. The kit included about 10 crimp on wire ends with a really sweet spring mechanisim.......


Oh crap, Ill just go take a pitcher.....Wait right here. 










Ok Im back.

This first pic shows the spark plug clip and the anvils used to crimp the clip to the wire.


View attachment 33473



This pic shows the clip close up and you can see the "C" shaped clip with a tit on either side what allows it to firmly clip to the tip of the plug.


View attachment 33474





Ive used these on everything and they have never let me down. They are very easy to stuff back in the boot as you now have one ridgid piece rether than a flimsy spring stuck into a piece of wire.

The set even comes with de electric grease to keep the spark from arking when things get wet.


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## RES (Apr 28, 2006)

Raisedbywolves:
Do you use the Accel connectors on the smaller 5mm ignition wire or do you stick with the 8mm wire as marked on your tool. It seems to me that it would be difficult to insert the thicker wire into the coil.

Andy:
Does punching additional holes in the same wire have any detrimental effect on the ignition or do plug the old hole with something.


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## cj7jeep (Apr 28, 2006)

Good info guys thanks. When i went to change the sparkplug and the spring wire fell out of the plug wire I thought the previous owner did a hack job on it. 

The thing that makes me made is I took the saw to the dealer and asked it they could look the saw over, fix the plug wire and tune it up. Two and a half weeks later I got my saw back it pieces, the flywhell and fan was off and they told me the saw was non-repairable due to the age and cost of repair.


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## RaisedByWolves (Apr 28, 2006)

Gotta love them dealers......


RES, the 5mm wire is left in place with just 1/2" stripped then the core is wrapped back over the wire jacket and the clip crimped on. 

Exposing the core to the clip is essential, forgot to mention this but the clips come with the nessary destructions.


It crimps down nicely on the 5mm wire and gets a good bite. The tangs get inverted by the top anvil and come together centered over the wire firmly binding the clip to the wire.

The fact that the wire is smaller then what the anvils and clips were designed for results in more _tang_ than is nessary and works as good as using the correct sized wire.


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## RES (Apr 28, 2006)

Accel Web Site:
http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/sparkplugs/Wire_Accessories.pdf


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## RaisedByWolves (Apr 28, 2006)

RES said:


> Accel Web Site:
> http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/sparkplugs/Wire_Accessories.pdf




Good post. 


Looks like they have expanded things in the last 20 yrs.


For saws I especially like the crimp pliers as you would not have to remove the coil from the saw.

Seems like 7mm is the smallest they go though.


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