# Hearth pad, or cement block for wood stove install?



## NEKS Tree Svc (Jan 4, 2014)

I have a quick question, instead of building a base to place a hearth pad on, could i just use cinder blocks, or solid cement blocks, and not burn my home down? Just a quick question, as I am trying to save money. Things are tight with the truck brokedown and no firewood going out, any help is appreciated. Just wanted to ask those with many more years of wood burning experience than me, being 32. Just moved into a different home with no wood stove, so the install will happen soon. Thought I would ask you pros if i can use cinder/cement instead of hearth pad.....Would you feel safe, or have you done the same? Thanks.


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## treeslayer2003 (Jan 4, 2014)

air gap hearth would be safest cheap way imo. you gonna use SS chimney?


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 5, 2014)

I have a 3/4 sheet of ply wood ripped in half screwed together. I took it to a local roof metal shop and they wrapped it in roofing metal for 12 bucks or so


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## NEKS Tree Svc (Jan 5, 2014)

treeslayer2003 said:


> air gap hearth would be safest cheap way imo. you gonna use SS chimney?


Okay thanks, have double wall pipe thats going to go out a window unit since this is a 2 yr house before we move back to the country, then the pipe will be secured to the roof obviously. I plan on at least 2 ft above the top of the roof if i can safely secure it, 3 if possible.


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## NEKS Tree Svc (Jan 5, 2014)

fastLeo151 said:


> I have a 3/4 sheet of ply wood ripped in half screwed together. I took it to a local roof metal shop and they wrapped it in roofing metal for 12 bucks or so


no air gap between that and the floor?


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 5, 2014)

Nope


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## treeslayer2003 (Jan 5, 2014)

at least an inch but two is better.....wall more important than floor. be sure to observe the stovepipe clearance to, I seen so many run pipe a couple inches to wall, it scary.


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 5, 2014)

Pic


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## NEKS Tree Svc (Jan 5, 2014)

fastLeo151 said:


> Nope


thanks for the idea if i cant afford a small pad i will have that done and put it on a base, 2x4's is what i normally do for airflow underneath


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## Steve NW WI (Jan 5, 2014)

I'm unsure why you need to make a base under a hearth pad, or are you just attempting to eliminate the pad itself?

Block would be fine, but I'd want them all mortared together for 0 chance of a hot ember getting through to the floor.

Mine's on concrete floor in the basement, I haven't been able to catch it on fire yet


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## NEKS Tree Svc (Jan 5, 2014)

fastLeo151 said:


> Pic


cool idea thank you!


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 5, 2014)

Why would you want an air gap....


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## NEKS Tree Svc (Jan 5, 2014)

Steve NW WI said:


> I'm unsure why you need to make a base under a hearth pad, or are you just attempting to eliminate the pad itself?
> 
> Block would be fine, but I'd want them all mortared together for 0 chance of a hot ember getting through to the floor.
> 
> Mine's on concrete floor in the basement, I haven't been able to catch it on fire yet


The embers is what i was worried about, i haven't done any mortar work before, but couldn't be too hard i would think. Im trying to figure what would be more affordable, block or hearth pad. Some of the pads are $100-$200 plus, Ace Hardware has one for $50, but not sure about quality.


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 5, 2014)

NEKS Tree Svc said:


> cool idea thank you!


Its cheap and works great when it gets scratched up or the ole lady changes here favorite color I just get it re covered


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 5, 2014)

This is 1.5" thick 4'x4'. Its been down 4 years and no problems and less than 50 bucks total


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## NEKS Tree Svc (Jan 5, 2014)

fastLeo151 said:


> Why would you want an air gap....


As a kid, our stoves were always on a 2x4 base, and a hearth pad on top, i did the same also just to keep under the pad cool w/ airflow. If I skipped the hearth pad if block would work, i was thinking lay the blocks flat side up so there was air flow thru them, to help keep them cool. I know over time they break down, i just didnt know if heat would speed that up or not.


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## treeslayer2003 (Jan 5, 2014)

depends on how you build it but mostly so cool air can get behind the wall protection.
cement backer board can be used with proper support and can be covered with tile or thin brick for looks.


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 5, 2014)

It should only get warm.I'm more worked about the random pop of sparks that sometimes let loose when you open the stove


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## NEKS Tree Svc (Jan 5, 2014)

treeslayer2003 said:


> depends on how you build it but mostly so cool air can get behind the wall protection.
> cement backer board can be used with proper support and can be covered with tile or thin brick for looks.


alright thanks, some cement back board will work fine for the wall, one stove has a heat sheild on the back already, so on the wall i wouldn't think it would need to much, the other stove is just the old school wood long and skinny. Gonna use one for the house and one for the shop.


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## treeslayer2003 (Jan 5, 2014)




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## NEKS Tree Svc (Jan 5, 2014)

fastLeo151 said:


> It should only get warm.I'm more worked about the random pop of sparks that sometimes let loose when you open the stove


when you fill it full of hedge, what did you think would happen hahahahaha im gonna be very careful about that too, smoke detectors are all getting new batteries, fire extinguisher will be in each bedroom, etc. I guess i should have mentioned this is my first stove install in a mobile home, yea i know the EPA says none of the new ones are for mobile home use, but screw those guys, mobile homes all over have stove pipes coming out the roof, and im getting the window install kit to be extra safe, no holes in this roof since we are only here 2 yrs max while i save up for my bucket truck, grapple truck, chipper, etc. im going big this year.


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## treeslayer2003 (Jan 5, 2014)

prolly more than you want to do now but mebbe give ya some ideas. it is 2" box tube with 1/8 sheet tacked on and 1/2 backer board screwed on. one of these days i'll finish it with thin brick.


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## NEKS Tree Svc (Jan 5, 2014)

treeslayer2003 said:


> View attachment 326083


THat pretty affordable? Since the window is pretty low, i just need to have it up to the window kit that goes in, its triple wall at least if i remember right the kit that goes in the frame.


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## treeslayer2003 (Jan 5, 2014)

it is super easy to go thru the roof on a mobile home cuz there is no attic. if metal roof then really easy.


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## NEKS Tree Svc (Jan 5, 2014)

treeslayer2003 said:


> prolly more than you want to do now but mebbe give ya some ideas. it is 2" box tube with 1/8 sheet tacked on and 1/2 backer board screwed on. one of these days i'll finish it with thin brick.


that will look good with some tile on it, that cement board more affordable than hearth pad? I know that 2 inch isnt ahhhahaha, but i think some 2x's or 4x's would work


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## NEKS Tree Svc (Jan 5, 2014)

treeslayer2003 said:


> it is super easy to go thru the roof on a mobile home cuz there is no attic. if metal roof then really easy.


im just worried about patching it later, going to take the stoves with me when we sell it. Its only a temporary spot while i save up for equipment to help pay for a house.


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 5, 2014)

I've seen them home made jobs that were tiled crack....


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## treeslayer2003 (Jan 5, 2014)

prolly got 3-4 in it but the sheet metal was the high part. just tubeing and backer less than 200. 5' wide sheet was kinda pricy but I could have made due with 4 and spliced.


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## treeslayer2003 (Jan 5, 2014)

fastLeo151 said:


> I've seen them home made jobs that were tiled crack....


 lol, when I demoed my single wide I couldn't hurt that hearth with an 8 pound sledge, I was surprised.
always use thin set on a hearth not glue.


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 5, 2014)

You could also wrap that concrete board.....


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## treeslayer2003 (Jan 5, 2014)

NEKS Tree Svc said:


> im just worried about patching it later, going to take the stoves with me when we sell it. Its only a temporary spot while i save up for equipment to help pay for a house.


I got ya. just be safe.
just respect the clearances and you should be good. remember single wall pipe is 18"
you can look up all the clearances and your chimney instructions should tell ya.


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 5, 2014)

If you can't demo a tiled hearth with an 8 lb sledge you should consider eating your Wheaties


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## treeslayer2003 (Jan 5, 2014)

hahaha, you funny


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## NEKS Tree Svc (Jan 5, 2014)

treeslayer2003 said:


> prolly got 3-4 in it but the sheet metal was the high part. just tubeing and backer less than 200. 5' wide sheet was kinda pricy but I could have made due with 4 and spliced.


at that cost i might save that for the house in a couple years, will price some board for the wall though for sure and give it some breathing space behind. thanks


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## Bushmans (Jan 5, 2014)

The deciding factor is the stove itself. How high off the floor is it? Does it have a heat shield built into it?
I use a simple hearth pad purchased from Lowes for around $40. Of course my stove sits off the floor quite aways and has a plate running under it. The floor is warm around the stove but nowhere near warm enough to do any damage. As far as embers, I don't have a problem with those thanks to the little catch tray.


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## NEKS Tree Svc (Jan 5, 2014)

Bushmans said:


> The deciding factor is the stove itself. How high off the floor is it? Does it have a heat shield built into it?
> I use a simple hearth pad purchased from Lowes for around $40. Of course my stove sits off the floor quite aways and has a plate running under it. The floor is warm around the stove but nowhere near warm enough to do any damage. As far as embers, I don't have a problem with those thanks to the little catch tray.
> View attachment 326096
> 
> ...


It does have a heat shield in the back, sits about 16-18 inches off the ground we have carpet down, and the wall is quarter inch drywall but i will have something up along the wall


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## SS396driver (Jan 5, 2014)

I like the Hardibacker board. Its much better in my opinion than the cement board specially if your just going to lay it on the floor . Cement board tends to crumple if its not attached to the substrate .This is my stove in the basement I used all metal studs and hardibacker with veneer used brick . I insulated with Roxul mineral wool insulation because its non combustible and wont mold if it gets wet. I used the backerboard on the ceiling as a heat shield too


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## treeslayer2003 (Jan 5, 2014)

SS396driver said:


> I like the Hardibacker board. Its much better in my opinion than the cement board specially if your just going to lay it on the floor . Cement board tends to crumple if its not attached to the substrate .This is my stove in the basement I used all metal studs and hardibacker with veneer used brick . I insulated with Roxul mineral wool insulation because its non combustible and wont mold if it gets wet. I used the backerboard on the ceiling as a heat shield too


 nice job. did you cut the brick thin? or can you buy antiqe brick veneer?
you wouldn't need the insulation if you left a way for air to circulate but is very nice, safe and well thought out.
congrates to you sir, most don't even try.


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## Taxmantoo (Jan 5, 2014)

My parents used z-brick brand veneer behind the woodstove in the 1970s. 
Looks like it's still on the market.
http://www.z-brick.com/


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## SS396driver (Jan 5, 2014)

treeslayer2003 said:


> nice job. did you cut the brick thin? or can you buy antiqe brick veneer?
> you wouldn't need the insulation if you left a way for air to circulate but is very nice, safe and well thought out.
> congrates to you sir, most don't even try.


I insulated to keep the heat from going out the concrete foundation wall behind the stove. I was loosing way to much heat in the deepest part of winter there was no snow two to three feet away from the house . The brick was already cut I got the last 18 box's from Miron concrete, the company stopped making it because of the cost I used it in the bar room too that seems to be taking forever to finish.


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## NEKS Tree Svc (Jan 5, 2014)

SS396driver said:


> I like the Hardibacker board. Its much better in my opinion than the cement board specially if your just going to lay it on the floor . Cement board tends to crumple if its not attached to the substrate .This is my stove in the basement I used all metal studs and hardibacker with veneer used brick . I insulated with Roxul mineral wool insulation because its non combustible and wont mold if it gets wet. I used the backerboard on the ceiling as a heat shield too


That looks really nice! I just need to get something that will work and not catch fire, our bill was $375 last month. First bill like that ever, im really missing the stove going. -8 tonight.


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## Vermonster (Jan 5, 2014)

Taxmantoo said:


> My parents used z-brick brand veneer behind the woodstove in the 1970s.
> Looks like it's still on the market.
> http://www.z-brick.com/



You mean like this.....?

......


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## woodenboater (Jan 5, 2014)

When we had a WETT dude look at our woodstove for insurance purposes (previous owner was VERY lax and playing with fire if you will), we went with proper stove board vs cement board. The cost difference was huge but it looked better and was the better option for us.

Up where I am, there has to be lots of floor clearance around the stove as well. We needed around 18" of fireproof material (we used sheet metal) in front of the stove and to the side. The stove itself sat on a bunch of 18" pavers that had mortared joints over a wooden floor. The walls got the stove board but remember to use 1" spacers (we used copper coupling) to allow airflow.

Can't be too safe when it comes to preventing fires imo.


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## svk (Jan 5, 2014)

I used 2" colored patio blocks in my old house about 12 years ago. Sold the house 8 years ago and the new residents are still using it that way.


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## treeslayer2003 (Jan 5, 2014)

woodenboater said:


> When we had a WETT dude look at our woodstove for insurance purposes (previous owner was VERY lax and playing with fire if you will), we went with proper stove board vs cement board. The cost difference was huge but it looked better and was the better option for us.
> 
> Up where I am, there has to be lots of floor clearance around the stove as well. We needed around 18" of fireproof material (we used sheet metal) in front of the stove and to the side. The stove itself sat on a bunch of 18" pavers that had mortared joints over a wooden floor. The walls got the stove board but remember to use 1" spacers (we used copper coupling) to allow airflow.
> 
> Can't be too safe when it comes to preventing fires imo.


 you right, it pays to check local code cuz the insurer can drop you.
the fire marshal and insurance adjuster passed my hearth. the insurance guy was impressed.


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## Taxmantoo (Jan 5, 2014)

Vermonster said:


> You mean like this.....?
> 
> ......View attachment 326154



Close. That looks like an Americana Classic wraparound. 
We used slate tile on the floor, and did 3'x4' of a more varied Z-brick on the wall behind the stove, I think the color was Inca Used. 

Speaking of slate, Menards has it for $1.50 a square foot:
http://www.menards.com/main/floorin...floor-or-wall-tile-12x12/p-126265-c-12518.htm


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