# What do you think about stove pipe heat reclaimers? Anybody have em?



## chadihman (Feb 1, 2014)

I found out this winter for the first time in three years that my Quadrafire 5700 with a fan installed will not quite heat my house when it gets really cold for more than a few days. 
My thoughts are that my epa stove burning really clean should not make a dirty chimney when the exhaust is cooled from the pipe reclaimer. 95% of the time there's no visible smoke coming from my chimney. I have a probe thermometer in my pipe and the temp is north of 500 deg often and I'm thinking a stove pipe heat reclaimer would blow the extra heat I need for those really cold days.


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## doubletrouble (Feb 1, 2014)

I have one in the basement on my wood furnace. It does blow some heat into the basement which helps to further dry my firewood stacked down there and helps to warm our wood floors upstairs. The one I have is a single speed blower. I believe they make them with 2 speeds also. I had one before made by Magic Heat that had 2 speeds. It did a little more than the one I have now. I like them, they make use of the heat you would normally loose out the chimney. Just my $.02


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## firebrick43 (Feb 1, 2014)

epa stoves are very touchy about flue temps and draft and is why they typically recommend double wall stove pipe. Putting a heat reclaimer more than likely will reduce draft and cause issues with the stove unless you already have to much draft. Lots of if and butts but we don't know your conditions. Is you wood really dry? Stored under cover and a year old(two years oak) More moisture it has the more heat is used to make the moisture into steam?


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## ttyR2 (Feb 1, 2014)

Yep...pulling heat out of the flue gasses will cause them to slow down and be more likely to create creosote buildup.


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## zogger (Feb 1, 2014)

I would think on a smoke dragon they would work well, but if you already have a baffled stove or catalyst stove, etc, not so good.


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## CTYank (Feb 1, 2014)

zogger said:


> I would think *on a smoke dragon they would work well*, but if you already have a baffled stove or catalyst stove, etc, not so good.



Not likely, when you consider the amount of poo in the stack gas that can be condensed. Chimney-fire-city!


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## chadihman (Feb 1, 2014)

firebrick43 said:


> epa stoves are very touchy about flue temps and draft and is why they typically recommend double wall stove pipe. Putting a heat reclaimer more than likely will reduce draft and cause issues with the stove unless you already have to much draft. Lots of if and butts but we don't know your conditions. Is you wood really dry? Stored under cover and a year old(two years oak) More moisture it has the more heat is used to make the moisture into steam?


I have good draft and when a fire is established I shut my stove almost all the way down because my draft pulls really hard when its hot. Really the only time I would use the fan on the reclaimer would be when its really cold and I wouldn't mind a reduction in draft cause it pulls hard when its 15 deg or less outside.


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## chadihman (Feb 1, 2014)

zogger said:


> I would think on a smoke dragon they would work well, but if you already have a baffled stove or catalyst stove, etc, not so good.


I would think a heat reclaimer would be a bad idea on a smoke dragon. The temperature in the chimney needs to be hot to keep all the creosote carrying smoke out and not sticking to your liner.

My quad 5700 really displays an awesome secondary burn. It uses air tubes in the ceiling of the firebox. The fresh warmed air pulls through the holes in the air tubes and ignites all the gasses leaving not even a wisp of smoke out of the chimney. If it burns clean in the firebox there's no creosote or smoke exiting the stove. As said I think the only problem with a reclaimer on an epa stove would be a reduction of flue temperature causing a reduction in draft. Draft is needed to pull the fresh air charge in for a complete secondary burn.


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## Chris-PA (Feb 1, 2014)

It's an interesting question - when my secondary combustion stove is burning properly the total area of air intake is quite small, so the volume of gasses going up the flue is not going to be large. I would be concerned that while the temperatures may be high in the flue gases, if the volume is low the heat reclaimer may cool it rapidly. On the other hand, I'd bet my flue would pull well enough to use one, and if it's really burning clean it might be effective. Unfortunately I cannot mount one on mine or I might be tempted to try it.


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## stihly dan (Feb 1, 2014)

I had an epa stove that was getting way to much draft, had a hell of a time regulating the stove. I put in a magic heat and it helped with the draft a bit and gave me tons more heat in the basement. No creosote problems at all.


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## zogger (Feb 1, 2014)

CTYank said:


> Not likely, when you consider the amount of poo in the stack gas that can be condensed. Chimney-fire-city!



Smoke dragons burn hot, it's the only way to get heat out of them, and they keep burning up the stack somewhat. What screws up smoke dragons the most ( besides green wood) is clamping that damper down. A magic heat type exchanger slows it down, but allows the same volume of air in and through, and I don't think slows it down to the degree a regular damper wood. it isn't restricted, it is more diverted into the small tubes.

Not seeing it therefore creating more creosote, if anything, should be less. I think you are supposed to run them in lieu of any damper anyway. Heat is staying down in the firebox and flue longer, without being starved for oxygen, so it is burning the gases more. I know with my smogger, you rarely see any visible smoke. Now I burn too much wood, this is true, but I get very little creosote either.

Years previous when I burned smoke dragons with a damper, just crap, absurd crap, yes, creosote, got plugged up, just stoopid bad, nutso. I was incredulous thyat this "they" guy said to use one. I have yet to figure out why, unless you like crawling around your roof in the winter with a brush.

Lose the damper, learn to use size and species of wood and air intake only for heat output, works MUCH better. I burn hot fires..of different sizes.

but..I never tried a magic heat either, so I can't 100% say one way or the other. But I would not put one on a newer stove with secondaries and so on.

And I still think russian masony is the best thought out, most practical of all the woodheat methods. No moving parts, absolutely burns clean or self cleans, nice even heat, no metal to burn out/warp/corrode, no electricity needed, and so on. 

As to someone saying you need the OWB because you need the hot water as, there's got to be a way to have a maintenance accessible water coil incorporated into a russian masonry unit, if you really wanted hot water from it as well. They incorporate ovens into them, that could just as easily be the hot water heater tank preheater coil in there. 


I just do not want pumps and so on and being tied to the electricity. I don't like plumbing, and I don't trust plumbing in an emergency, don't want to be tied to some company weeks away by mailorder for parts, etc.. I have a well, so tied to it, but I dang sure don't want my heat tied to that sort of stuff. Epic fail when you need it the most potential. Same with a stove or furnace, don't want fans,pumps, etc. Solid state, no moving parts other than a door handle and whatever for the air intake.


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## firebrick43 (Feb 1, 2014)

Do


chadihman said:


> I have good draft and when a fire is established I shut my stove almost all the way down because my draft pulls really hard when its hot. Really the only time I would use the fan on the reclaimer would be when its really cold and I wouldn't mind a reduction in draft cause it pulls hard when its 15 deg or less outside.


 you have double wall pipe already? Is just single wall stove pipe?


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## chadihman (Feb 1, 2014)

firebrick43 said:


> epa stoves are very touchy about flue temps and draft and is why they typically recommend double wall stove pipe. Putting a heat reclaimer more than likely will reduce draft and cause issues with the stove unless you already have to much draft. Lots of if and butts but we don't know your conditions. Is you wood really dry? Stored under cover and a year old(two years oak) More moisture it has the more heat is used to make the moisture into steam?


Yep my wood is dry. I burn oak, ash, maple, locust and cherry. Don't get me wrong. My stove cranks serious heat. I would have no issues with heating my house in -10 temps if I or my wife were here to load it during the daytime. I load the stove in the morning before work and it doesn't get touched till my wife gets home 9 hours later. After 9 hours its half full of hot coals but not cranking much heat anymore. The temp cools in the house to much to be able to recover for the overnight load. It amazes me how easily I can heat my house when its 20 degrees but can't keep up when its a high of 5 degrees for the day.
I've been researching a way to control my stove with my smartphone. It involves an electric actuator for moving the air control and a WiFi controller for controlling the actuator. I would love to be able to open my air to my stove after the secondary burn is completed. This would provide more heat output and reduce the amount of coals I sometimes can't get rid of fast enough.


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## firebrick43 (Feb 1, 2014)

My stove had some trouble last week during the polar vortex keeping up, -12 degrees. Split some American elm real fine (nearly kindling) and it helped tremendously. Maybe 3 pieces to every regular sized piece. Can't help you with long burn times as my jotul f100 is very small and 3-4 hours is it. But the 1450 house is super insulated and doesn't drop very much. My stove pipe is a super heavy 6' seamless single wall with a shield on the back side for clearance to the wall my draft is excellent even still but I have seen two installs with single wall and cathedral ceilings that did cool off to much and double wall stovepipe fixed the problem. So if you think your draft is good enough and you can handle the terrible looks go for it


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## Fred Wright (Feb 1, 2014)

The main issue with inline heat exchangers, they tend to lower your stack temp and encourage creosote buildup. I guess much depends on your individual scenario... but my understanding is they can clog and be more work and worry than they're worth.


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## brenndatomu (Feb 1, 2014)

You have about an 80% chance of this not working out well. It is rare indeed to find a newer stove (EPA) that will work right with _any_ restriction in the chimney. A basement install like stihlydans would maybe work (tall chimney, high draft) How tall is your chimney?


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## Bushmans (Feb 1, 2014)

I read that the magic heat kicks on at 150 degree flue temps and it is not advised to bypass the electric system or it will ruin it. This means it will kick in almost immediatley and that big stove and a reclaimer going all the time may roast you out when temps are not so cold. 

Sent from my SM-T217S using Tapatalk


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## StihlFroling (Feb 1, 2014)

Reclaim ears aren't for every device, but if monitored well can work great. As long as the temps are above 150 degrees the it will draft fine. Now in a few cases some stoves might require more, but good monitoring and you shouldn't have any problems.
Only time you'll have to worry about creosote is if its not a clean burning stove or gases, and you don't ever maintain/ inspect chimney. 

I like the idea of use for drying wood, as I have seen some homemade setups for that. Simple 12vdc or 120vac fans and some dryer vent pipe ran into a rack shelf. Just like kiln dried..


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## chadihman (Feb 1, 2014)

brenndatomu said:


> You have about an 80% chance of this not working out well. It is rare indeed to find a newer stove (EPA) that will work right with _any_ restriction in the chimney. A basement install like stihlydans would maybe work (tall chimney, high draft) How tall is your chimney?


25' with a single wall solid ss liner in a brick chimney. No room for double walled pipe or insulation. Draft is really strong. Makes my secondary fire really hot even with stove shut down. I think I'm going to try a magic heat. They sure are ugly.


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## chadihman (Feb 1, 2014)

Bushmans said:


> I read that the magic heat kicks on at 150 degree flue temps and it is not advised to bypass the electric system or it will ruin it. This means it will kick in almost immediatley and that big stove and a reclaimer going all the time may roast you out when temps are not so cold.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T217S using Tapatalk


So the heat without the fan running will damage it?


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## John R (Feb 1, 2014)

Have a friend that has one installed in his chimney pipe and it puts out good heat.
Don't know if it causes any more build or not.


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## Knobby57 (Feb 1, 2014)

I have a Avalon cottage EPA II wood stove , 34' double wall stainless up the side if my house . 4' then 90%elbow 2' pipe to the chimney. Tried the magic heat and was very disappointed , it has a rod that runs into the front that you have to slide in and out to clean off the exchange tubes about 50 times a day , and remove it and manually clean it every month of burning ,and creosote galore . Removed it and my wood burner is a entirely different animal . At least 50% better heat output and better burn times . Secondary burn was almost non existent with the magic heat installed . I'm kind of kicking myself in the arse I went 2 years with that thing . That being said it's on the shelf . But if your hell bent on trying one I'll sell you mine for 50$ plus shipping 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Poindexter (Feb 2, 2014)

As has been said, pulling heat out of the flue gasses into the house cools the flue gasses, may lead to draft problems and may encourage creosote buildup.

FWIW burning spruce (12% moisture content, we had a dry summer) in my EPA cert non-cat with 14' of combined chimney and flue, the thing runs the same at -60dF as it does at +30dF. At +30dF I am clearly wasting a fair amount of heat.

If you got a good running stove and good dry wood, you probably can reclaim _some_ heat from your flue without causing any problems.

How often do you brush out your chimney now? How dry is your woodpile? How good is your draft? The only way to be sure is to hook one up and run it, then inspect your flue right regular. Probably you'll have to clean it "more often", but the only way you'll know is by breaking it open and keeping a regular eye on it.


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## Bushmans (Feb 2, 2014)

chadihman said:


> So the heat without the fan running will damage it?




It is what I read on the reviews. I was curious about the product so I started researching it.
A lot of folks like them but also do not indicate what type of stove they are running.
It kicks in at 125 and shuts off at 110. A few complaints I read:

Fan is very noisy

Box sometimes squeaks but if you slap it on the side it will quit

Reduced my draft so much that when I opened the door smoke would blow out

Have to clean the tubes every time you put wood on the fire

"Installation of this product restricted draft significantly. Carbon Monoxide detector routinely activated any time the woodstove was not fully opened and running hot. The number of times we "opened the doors" could not be counted. We definitely burned wood faster keeping the draft up. Produced lots of heat but not worth the headaches. Removed after 1 season."

I did read more good than bad however but....if you have to clean the tubes every time you add wood and the gadget is a mere 18" above the firebox then by golly it must be lowering the flue temps radically to begin a build up that close to the fire itself. I can imagine what it looks like higher up.

Your call but I think I would buy the other guys above and save some money. Those things aren't cheap and they are backordered right now!


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## chadihman (Feb 2, 2014)

Poindexter said:


> How often do you brush out your chimney now? How dry is your woodpile? How good is your draft? The only way to be sure is to hook one up and run it, then inspect your flue right regular. Probably you'll have to clean it "more often", but the only way you'll know is by breaking it open and keeping a regular eye on it.


My chimney usually gets cleaned only once when I'm finished in the spring. I get maybe two handfuls or less out of my pipe. My wood is under a roof with open walls. Its dry. Good draft. I'm trying one. I'll let you guys know how it does.


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## oldspark (Feb 2, 2014)

I think for a pre EPA stove with out a baffle they are probably OK, any thing else not a good idea.


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## philoshop (Feb 2, 2014)

Sounds like you'd be better off with a small fan or two behind the pipe just to circulate that hot air. I would think that putting anything inside the pipe is going to change the burn characteristics of the whole setup just to fix a relatively infrequent problem. The KISS principle, no offense intended.


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## woodsplitta (Feb 2, 2014)

I've got one installed on a volcano furnace, single wall pipe, basement located, masonry 35ish ft chimney, located about 18 inches from stove outlet and have used it for 8 yrs. It definitely reduced the draft however I have not had any issues with creosote. I burn 2 yr seasoned wood, 3 for oak, and maintain hot fires. I remove stove pipe and reclaimer twice per season and clean out light fluffy soot from them. Fan is a bit noisy and when fire is coaling down it will cycle on and off, quite annoying, usually unplug at that point unless reloading. I have run the stove without plugging in the reclaimer and have not had an issue, of course I watched it the first couple times to make sure it was ok. I wanted to make sure it would not overheat if power was lost and I was not home cuz in the operating manual it states to remove the fan assy in the event of power failure,, yeah... ok. I was surprised at how much heat it produces.. keeps my basement toasty and helps to dry off surface moisture from wood piled in basement. Just my 2 cents


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## downey (Feb 2, 2014)

If u want to try one pm me I have a magic heat for a 6 inch stove pipe. I took it off of mine.


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## flotek (Feb 2, 2014)

An EPA stove relies on secondary combustion to be efficient . When it's hot then shut down in secondary mode a strong draft is required to sustain that process of burning off the gas . A good EPA unit needs no damper of any kind just a good draft and dry wood ..Adding a inline fan cools off the flue reducing that inner temperature and stopping the process and you lost the heat required to burn off the deposits that's why they gum up so bad


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## savageactor7 (Feb 3, 2014)

"I found out this winter for the first time in three years that my Quadrafire 5700 with a fan installed will not quite heat my house when it gets really cold for more than a few days. "

Well that the sacrifice we all make using primitive methods to heat the house. Like you say it's only for a few days...

...and those heat reclaimers are bogus, stay away from 'em.


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