# My shiny new MS170 wont start. Please Help.



## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

I just bought a brand new MS170. The dealer gave me starting instructions that I followed to the letter.

1. Place it in the full choke position, pull until you hear the burp. Then Stop pulling.
2. Switch to half choke and pull until it starts. 
3. Switch to run.

I followed these instructions and I got it to burp the first time after about 20 pulls. I used it to cut one tree and went through one take of gas. 

I let it sit for about 2 weeks. I just filled it up with fresh pre-mixed fuel from lowes and this thing will not start. It will not burp. I have been trying for hours. Hundreds of pulls. Nothing. I thought maybe I flooded it without noticing. I followed the procedure to unflood it. It was not flooded and it still wont start. I am losing my mind. My heart is hurting because i dont handle frustration and stress very well especially when things dont work. I have gone into a rage smashing things out of anger. This is my first stihl saw and I am very disappointed. Before this I had a homelite that would start with ease every time. If there is not a simple explanation for this, I am going to return it to the store.

I was so happy the day I bought it. I have always dreamed of having a stihl saw, but now I am sad. 

Will someone please explain why my Stihl wont start?


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## rob066 (Mar 15, 2015)

It sounds like it is fuel related. Remove air filter and put a very small shot of mix down the carb. If it quits then fuel related. If it dont start it is probaly spark related. Either way I would take it back to the dealer for warranty.


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## fearofpavement (Mar 15, 2015)

Take it back to the dealer and see if they can start it. It's possible there is something wrong with it.


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## HarleyT (Mar 15, 2015)

Can you take off the orange top cover, and snap a pic of the carb/air filter area from the rear? The control rod may have popped up out of place.


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

fearofpavement said:


> Take it back to the dealer and see if they can start it. It's possible there is something wrong with it.


It is also spitting gas out somewhere near where the bar connects to the saw. I dont think that is normal?


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## fearofpavement (Mar 15, 2015)

A couple other things that I've seen. IF this saw is configured differently than your other saw, verify you put the mix gas in the fuel tank and not the oil tank. (yes, this kind of thing happens all the time)
If this did happen, it doesn't ruin the saw, just empty everything out and put the proper stuff in the proper tank. Then it will be challenging to get running but can be done. In fact, if this is what happened, come back on here and you can get some procedures for purging the fuel.
The fact fuel is coming out by the bar (should be oil) makes me think this may have happened.


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

Flooded, take the plug out clean it and blow fry while its out pull it over and get the gas out put plug in start over.


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## KenJax Tree (Mar 15, 2015)

I bet you filled the wrong tanks like was said above. Its gonna smoke like crazy until the bar oil burns off.[emoji23]


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

fearofpavement said:


> A couple other things that I've seen. IF this saw is configured differently than your other saw, verify you put the mix gas in the fuel tank and not the oil tank. (yes, this kind of thing happens all the time)
> If this did happen, it doesn't ruin the saw, just empty everything out and put the proper stuff in the proper tank. Then it will be challenging to get running but can be done. In fact, if this is what happened, come back on here and you can get some procedures for purging the fuel.
> The fact fuel is coming out by the bar (should be oil) makes me think this may have happened.


no, the fuel is where the fuel goes and the oil is where the oil goes. It is definetly spitting gas out somewhere.


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## fearofpavement (Mar 15, 2015)

What lone wolf suggested could also be the case. If the saw is warm, then the choke isn't used to restart, just turn to the on position. If the saw is really flooded, you'll need to get the plug out and cleaned off. It will be "wet" with gasoline. If you have another spark plug that's the same (like your other saw or a string trimmer, etc) you can trade.
Don't panic yet, it sometimes takes a bit to get used to a new saw and "crack the code"


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> Flooded, take the plug out clean it and blow fry while its out pull it over and get the gas out put plug in start over.


Tried this three times. No luck.


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

KenJax Tree said:


> I bet you filled the wrong tanks like was said above. Its gonna smoke like crazy until the bar oil burns off.[emoji23]


No, just verified fuel is in the right place.


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## fearofpavement (Mar 15, 2015)

If you don't want to pull the plug, the other solution for a flooded saw is to leave it sit a day or two and then start over.


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

HarleyT said:


> Can you take off the orange top cover, and snap a pic of the carb/air filter area from the rear? The control rod may have popped up out of place.


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## cgraham1 (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> It is definetly spitting gas out somewhere.



The fuel could be "spitting" out of the muffler if it's flooded...


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

fearofpavement said:


> If you don't want to pull the plug, the other solution for a flooded saw is to leave it sit a day or two and then start over.


Pulled the plug three times. Not flooded.


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> Tried this three times. No luck.


Take the filter off take the chain off and drop start it real hard and fast while holding the throttle trigger wide open a bunch of times first with the choke off for a couple pulls then on for a couple .


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> Pulled the plug three times. Not flooded.


got spark?


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## cgraham1 (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> ... I dont handle frustration and stress very well especially when things dont work. I have gone into a rage smashing things out of anger.


You should stop doing that.


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## fearofpavement (Mar 15, 2015)

If the saw isn't flooded and it a fuel supply issue, it should run when a 1/2 teaspoon of fuel is put directly into the carb. (it will start and run about 3 seconds)

If it isn't flooded, and you put fuel in the carb and it doesn't start at all then you probably have a spark issue and maybe need to bring the saw back to the dealer for attention.
Sorry you're having problems. Keep working through them and this will be history soon enough.


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## cgraham1 (Mar 15, 2015)

I'm trying to wrap my head around how he pulled the starter rope hundreds of times, and the saw is not flooded? Is the fuel line plugged?


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

cgraham1 said:


> I'm trying to wrap my head around how he pulled the starter rope hundreds of times, and the saw is not flooded? Is the fuel line plugged?


I don't know either why it wouldn't be.


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

cgraham1 said:


> I'm trying to wrap my head around how he pulled the starter rope hundreds of times, and the saw is not flooded? Is the fuel line plugged?



Turns out it was flooded, then reflooded everytime I unflooded. which I did three times. Problem is, i was waiting on the burp, But no burp came so I kept pulling the cord. I will be taking this saw back. It is too difficult to start. The dealer and the video said there would be a ****ing burp.


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> Turns out it was flooded, then reflooded everytime I unflooded. which I did three times. Problem is, i was waiting on the burp, But no burp came so I kept pulling the cord. I will be taking this saw back. It is too difficult to start. The dealer and the video said there would be a ****ing burp.


Sounds like the carb inlet needle stuck open take it back.


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

So why the **** do they train people to wait for the burp, if no burp every comes? WHAT THE ****. This is ********. I am taking this saw back. How am I supposed to know how many times to pull the cord before moving this switch.


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> Sounds like the carb inlet needle stuck open take it back.



ok thanks for your help.


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## cgraham1 (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> So why the **** do they train people to wait for the burp, if no burp every comes? WHAT THE ****. This is ********. I am taking this saw back. How am I supposed to know how many times to pull the cord before moving this switch.


That's pretty much how every saw ever made is started. Choke it until it sputters, then flip the choke off and it should start. Blip the throttle to take it off high idle, and go cut wood.


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> So why the **** do they train people to wait for the burp, if no burp every comes? WHAT THE ****. This is ********. I am taking this saw back. How am I supposed to know how many times to pull the cord before moving this switch.


2 or 3.


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## KenJax Tree (Mar 15, 2015)

I don't wait for mine to pop, on choke if it don't pop within 3-4 pulls i go to fast idle and pull 2-3 more times and it running.


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## cgraham1 (Mar 15, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> 2 or 3.


Yep. Pull the cord three times, then flip the switch off choke. On some saws it's really hard to hear the sputter.


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

cgraham1 said:


> That's pretty much how every saw ever made is started. Choke it until it sputters, then flip the choke off and it should start. Blip the throttle to take it off high idle, and go cut wood.


Gotcha. In the case of this saw, no sputter came. I spent all day doing this.


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

I never had this problem with my homelite. It was always super easy to start.


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

cgraham1 said:


> Yep. Pull the cord three times, then flip the switch off choke. On some saws it's really hard to hear the sputter.


Deaf as I am I got to ask who I am with if that was thunder I just heard or what?


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

I am returning for either an echo cs-310 or homelite.


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> I never had this problem with my homelite. It was always super easy to start.


The problem could be the method you are doing did you try dropstart with wide open throttle yet like I posted? Remember take the chain of for safety.


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> I am returning for either an echo cs-310 or homelite.


I wonder if the gas is good? Hey I know its in a can but test that.


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> The problem could be the method you are doing did you try dropstart with wide open throttle yet like I posted? Remember take the chain of for safety.


Yes, I tried that too. The starting problem is resolved at this point. I can start it now. Its the lack of a burp I was promised that is the problem. The first time I started it, it made a very loud and obvious burp. Today after 6 hours of trying to start it every which way, no burp.


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## stihlaficionado (Mar 15, 2015)

Well, your user name certainly is dead on then 
Yeah, take it back to the dealer. 
Welcome to AS


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> Yes, I tried that too. The starting problem is resolved at this point. I can start it now. Its the lack of a burp I was promised that is the problem. The first time I started it, it made a very loud and obvious burp. Today after 6 hours of trying to start it every which way, no burp.


So you left the choke on too many pulls and flooded it am I close?


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## pantelis (Mar 15, 2015)




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## hills bay performance (Mar 15, 2015)

Please dont this turn you off stihl . They make some of the best saws on the market


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

hills bay performance said:


> Please dont this turn you off stihl . They make some of the best saws on the market


I agree. I have a bunch of them and rarely have problems. Not counting carb failure due to ethanol that ruins all small engines not just Stihls.


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> So you left the choke on too many pulls and flooded it am I close?


Precisely - because there was no burp.


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

hills bay performance said:


> Please dont this turn you off stihl . They make some of the best saws on the market


Well I am going to bring this one back because it is not burping like the dealer and stihl training video claimed. When it did burp the first time I started it, it took a lot of pulls. I had a homelite with a primer bulb and never had an issue starting it, so I think I will get one of those or an echo. I have no doubt they make a quality product. I am just unhappy with the starting procedure and trainaing video that didn't really explain what to do if you dont get a burp.


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## hills bay performance (Mar 15, 2015)

Take it back to the dealer . Let them diagnose it. It could be a learning curve on proper starting techniques
The benefit to stihl is their customer service. My stihl dealer is awesome.


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## pantelis (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> Precisely - because there was no burp.


pull of the plug turn the saw upside down pull the cord about 15 times put the plug again and start the saw cold starting. the saw make burp but you dont notice.


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## coltont (Mar 15, 2015)

B A


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## pantelis (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> Well I am going to bring this one back because it is not burping like the dealer and stihl training video claimed. When it did burp the first time I started it, it took a lot of pulls. I had a homelite with a primer bulb and never had an issue starting it, so I think I will get one of those or an echo. I have no doubt they make a quality product. I am just unhappy with the starting procedure and trainaing video that didn't really explain what to do if you dont get a burp.


take more pulls until the carb pull gas from the tank , its a empty systems need more until full


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## pantelis (Mar 15, 2015)

coltont said:


> B A


??


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## coltont (Mar 15, 2015)

Brush ape


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## KenJax Tree (Mar 15, 2015)

Take it to the dealer and YOU start it in front of them, that way if you're doing something wrong they'll see it.


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> Well I am going to bring this one back because it is not burping like the dealer and stihl training video claimed. When it did burp the first time I started it, it took a lot of pulls. I had a homelite with a primer bulb and never had an issue starting it, so I think I will get one of those or an echo. I have no doubt they make a quality product. I am just unhappy with the starting procedure and trainaing video that didn't really explain what to do if you dont get a burp.


Try a new plug.


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> Try a new plug.



At one point the filter cover didnt get put on correctly and i couldnt get the chain brake off because it was caught. So the saw ran on full for about 30 seconds with the chain brake on. Would that damage anything? Is that bad?


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## hills bay performance (Mar 15, 2015)

Dont mess with it anymore take it to the dealer. Ive got a ms271 sitting on my work bench that did that and it ruined all most everything on that side even melted the oil pump


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> At one point the filter cover didnt get put on correctly and i couldnt get the chain brake off because it was caught. So the saw ran on full for about 30 seconds with the chain brake on. Would that damage anything? Is that bad?


it could melt the plastic around the clutch and wear out the brake band . It aint supposed to run maybe it is smoked already see if it is still able to hold it back not for long!


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

hills bay performance said:


> Dont mess with it anymore take it to the dealer. Ive got a ms271 sitting on my work bench that did that and it ruined all most everything on that side even melted the oil pump


Dealer = money!


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## pantelis (Mar 15, 2015)




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## hills bay performance (Mar 15, 2015)

Your right lol


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## pantelis (Mar 15, 2015)

hills bay performance said:


> Your right lol


Yes i know,


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

hills bay performance said:


> Your right lol


They will get him and you know it!


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## pantelis (Mar 15, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> They will get him and you know it!


and they have right


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> They will get him and you know it!


What do you mean? I bought the saw 3 weeks ago. If they try to charge me money I will just return it.


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## Chris-PA (Mar 15, 2015)

Good thing it's a high quality Stihl and not a cheap plastic Poulan.


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## hills bay performance (Mar 15, 2015)

lontlf said:


> They will get him and you know it!


I dont see this ending cheaply if you damaged something their not gonna take it back


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

pantelis said:


> and they have right


They even got me I bought a new carb the needle was sticking he said bring the saw in and we will look at it next thing he wants 150.00 too because they tested pressure and vac and said the needle was stuck in the seat blah blah blah! I never authorized this ********! So they charged me to figure out the carb needle was stuck!!!!!!!!! Ash-oles!!!!!!!!


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

hills bay performance said:


> I dont see this ending cheaply if you damaged something their not gonna take it back


That's what I think with that clutch brake thing. If no damage I had heard if you don't like a saw you can bring it back in 30 days is that true?


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## pantelis (Mar 15, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> Good thing it's a high quality Stihl and not a cheap plastic Poulan.


in my opinion all are good poulans, huskys, stihls, if you do what must do


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## KenJax Tree (Mar 15, 2015)

I'm smelling BA[emoji6]


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## coltont (Mar 15, 2015)

Already called that fellas


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## pantelis (Mar 15, 2015)

hills bay performance said:


> I dont see this ending cheaply if you damaged something their not gonna take it back


i cant never understand how the saws start and work good when they are in the services, but cant start and work when come back to the home, big mysterius


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

hills bay performance said:


> I dont see this ending cheaply if you damaged something their not gonna take it back



I dont think anything is damaged. The chain brake is stopping the chain just fine. By running I meant it was revving for 30 seconds on high with the chain brake on.


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

coltont said:


> Already called that fellas



What does that mean?


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## pantelis (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> I dont think anything is damaged. The chain brake is stopping the chain just fine. By running I meant it was revving for 30 seconds on high with the chain brake on.


where you read in the manuals to recoment reving high with the brake on ?


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## stihlaficionado (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> What does that mean?


That means the mods are looking at you to make sure you're not one of tens of aliases of the famous/infamous Brush Ape


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## hills bay performance (Mar 15, 2015)

Hopefully you didn't hurt anything. But running it anything over idle with the brake on is not a good idea.


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## stihlaficionado (Mar 15, 2015)

This thread has the potential of becoming a great Rep thread


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> I dont think anything is damaged. The chain brake is stopping the chain just fine. By running I meant it was revving for 30 seconds on high with the chain brake on.


Not running the chain and slipping the brake if it held back you will be fine?


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

stihlaficionado said:


> That means the mods are looking at you to make sure you're not one of tens of aliases of the famous/infamous Brush Ape



What is brush ape infamous for?


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> Not running the chain and slipping the brake if it held back you will be fine?


Yes it held. It was not slipping. The brake still works just fine. I was just curious if it reving with the break on for 20-30 seconds would have damaged anything. I am somewhat new to saws.


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> Yes it held. It was not slipping. The brake still works just fine. I was just curious if it reving with the break on for 20-30 seconds would have damaged anything. I am somewhat new to saws.


Your good, I thought you meant it got away from the brake slipped and ran .


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

pantelis said:


> where you read in the manuals to recoment reving high with the brake on ?


I didn't rev it purposely. When its in half choke and it starts, it immediately revs until you tap the throttle. I was flustered by the cover being in the way of the break and I didn't tap the throttle for about 20-30 seconds.


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## stihlaficionado (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> What is brush ape infamous for?


He can be a really funny dude. But he has pissed off a lot of folks too.

Some of his aliases have been hilarious


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

stihlaficionado said:


> He can be a really funny dude. But he has pissed off a lot of folks too.
> 
> Some of his aliases have been hilarious


Well im not being very funny. I just have an extreme temper and I was so angry that my brand new stihl wouldn't start. I just bought the thing and planned on doing a lot of work with it today. They told me it would burp. It burped the first time I used it. Now no burp. I had a homelight and there was no listening for a burp that never comes. I just pumped the bulb and everything worked. My right index finger is swollen from pulling that damn cord.


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## stubnail67 (Mar 15, 2015)

take it back see if its the saw or you


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## stihlaficionado (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> Well im not being very funny. I just have an extreme temper and I was so angry that my brand new stihl wouldn't start. I just bought the thing and planned on doing a lot of work with it today. They told me it would burp. It burped the first time I used it. Now no burp. I had a homelight and there was no listening for a burp that never comes. I just pumped the bulb and everything worked. My right index finger is swollen from pulling that damn cord.



Virtually anything that won't start is a pita.


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## Gologit (Mar 15, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> Well im not being very funny. I just have an extreme temper and I was so angry that my brand new stihl wouldn't start. I just bought the thing and planned on doing a lot of work with it today. They told me it would burp. It burped the first time I used it. Now no burp. I had a homelight and there was no listening for a burp that never comes. I just pumped the bulb and everything worked. My right index finger is swollen from pulling that damn cord.



You're pulling the cord with your right hand?


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 15, 2015)

Gologit said:


> You're pulling the cord with your right hand?


Yes. Maybe that's why it wouldn't burp.


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## tomscott (Mar 15, 2015)

The first pull that feels slightly harder than the first, that is your burp. Burp is often felt rather than heard. Usually no more than 2 to three pulls when cold. Switch to half choke at that point. Will probably start next pull or second after that.


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## lone wolf (Mar 15, 2015)

tomscott said:


> The first pull that feels slightly harder than the first, that is your burp. Burp is often felt rather than heard. Usually no more than 2 to three pulls when cold. Switch to half choke at that point. Will probably start next pull or second after that.


WTF is this burp ****? Its , pops or fires.


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## walterg (Mar 16, 2015)

Let me ask the obvious.
You do know you need to squeeze the throttle, then put it on full choke.
If you don't it either bends the linkage or pops it loose from the carb.


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 16, 2015)

walterg said:


> Let me ask the obvious.
> You do know you need to squeeze the throttle, then put it on full choke.
> If you don't it either bends the linkage or pops it loose from the carb.


Yes, I am aware. But its always good to bring up obvious things first.


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## fearofpavement (Mar 16, 2015)

If you bought this saw new, it should have come with a manual. It's pretty thick but they actually contain a lot of useful info. Read through that and I think once you get the new to you saw figured out you will like it a lot. Stihls (like most other saws) start very reliably once you are familiar with the method. If the dealer didn't give you all the info you needed, that doesn't make it a bad saw. Get it figured out and then get your wood cut.


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## RedFir Down (Mar 16, 2015)

KenJax Tree said:


> I'm smelling BA[emoji6]


He's not after this type of attention. Who is this .404 dude anyway?


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 16, 2015)

RedFir Down said:


> He's not after this type of attention. Who is this .404 dude anyway?


I wish I knew what the joke was with this BA guy.


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## RedFir Down (Mar 16, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> I wish I knew what the joke was with this BA guy.


Post #82 pretty much sums it up. He also likes to troll a few on the site.
He likes drama, creates waves and stirs the pot.


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 16, 2015)

fearofpavement said:


> If you bought this saw new, it should have come with a manual. It's pretty thick but they actually contain a lot of useful info. Read through that and I think once you get the new to you saw figured out you will like it a lot. Stihls (like most other saws) start very reliably once you are familiar with the method. If the dealer didn't give you all the info you needed, that doesn't make it a bad saw. Get it figured out and then get your wood cut.


If someone had simply told me "you might not hear a burp. If you pull it a bunch if times with no burp, you are missing the burp or its not burping, so just move on to half choke." This whole fiasco could have been avoided. Also, it made such a distinct burp the first time I started it. Why would it be inconsistent?


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## Rockjock (Mar 16, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> If someone had simply told me "you might not hear a burp. If you pull it a bunch if times with no burp, you are missing the burp or its not burping, so just move on to half choke." This whole fiasco could have been avoided. Also, it made such a distinct burp the first time I started it. Why would it be inconsistent?



It may have burped the first time because the fuel lines were empty. I know many of my saws will often Burp Pop when I take them out of storage for use but after that my 017, 024,025,026 and MS 361 may not pop or burp so I just do the following.
full choke 3 pulls
fast idle ( middle position ) 2 pulls maybe 3 and it usually fires right up
depress or blip the throttle and it is in idle

I suggest you give that a try often the pop or burp is so subtle you miss it.

If the saw floods, I pull the spark plug pull the recoil 5-6 times replace the plug, set the saw in the full choke ( do not pull the recoil) move it to the fast idle position and pull a couple of times and it starts. Blip the throttle and it will idle

Try it if that fails the dealer is always there to help and or educate you.


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## SEAM (Mar 16, 2015)

I wonder if a non-burping issue is covered by warranty 
Take it back and get something you like better - best would be to try it out at the dealer's.
If used regularly the little Stihl should start very easily every time if it does not get flooded.
A flooded Engine just won't start, no matter if Stihl, Echo, Husqvarna or whatever.


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## drf255 (Mar 16, 2015)

You've tried more effort than most on a new saw. We've all been there with new equipment that doesn't work right, you need it and you just keep trying "one more step" to get it right. Unfortunately, that usually screws you worse because you wind up ruining something along the way. I'm pretty much the king of that.

Don't give up on Stihl. Now that you've figured it out, do you like how the saw performs?

I think the difference in the consumer line of Stihl saws vs. Other brands isn't that great. The factory is trying to make a cheap and reliable product to appease a lot of consumers. The pro saws are a different story though, I think Stihl is one of the best, period.

That being said, if you bring it back and get a refund, Echo is probably the best homeowner type saw. They are easy to start and very reliable. Their resale value isn't as great as other brands, so getting a good used one is fairly easy. I've had a tiny CS330T with a 14" Oregon bar for the past 13 years. It's cut more wood that my Stihl 066. The damn things never had a single problem that was it's own fault. Starts right up.

Every saw I own "pops" when choked. You can misinterpret it though. Sometimes it's just one little blip in the smoothness of the pull. 

If you want a used saw that's better than what you bought, post in the Tradin Post. I have a bunch of 025's that would cost you less than what you bought and would be better.


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## rd35 (Mar 16, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> If someone had simply told me "you might not hear a burp. If you pull it a bunch if times with no burp, you are missing the burp or its not burping, so just move on to half choke." This whole fiasco could have been avoided. Also, it made such a distinct burp the first time I started it. Why would it be inconsistent?


Hey there...Sorry to hear your first Stihl experience is not so good. Hope this story helps a bit. I, too, had an old homelite saw that would ALWAYS start, rain or shine. Got my first Stihl, brand new MS260, and it wouldn't run right. Took it back to the dealer and he put a new carb on it. Had a couple of other issues with it that really soured me on that saw....but after I worked out the bugs I slowly, over time, grew to love that saw. Light weight, dependable, always starts now, and cuts wood like crazy. I realized that, like most things, my relationship with that saw is somewhat like a long term relationship with a friend or co-worker. Everybody has their little quirks and it take a little while to work through those issues and move on. Same way with a chainsaw. Once you learn little things like what a "burp" actually is, then you can consistently use it with good success! I'm confident you will learn to love that 170. Especially when you pick up an old homelite and realize how heavy and cumbersome it is compared to your saw.


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## Gologit (Mar 16, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> Yes. Maybe that's why it wouldn't burp.



How about this...you make a video for us of your starting technique and post it for us? It might be easier to diagnose the problem if we could actually see you and what you're doing.


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## Rockjock (Mar 16, 2015)

Gologit said:


> How about this...you make a video for us of your starting technique and post it for us? It might be easier to diagnose the problem if we could actually see you and what you're doing.


Is the BA like the bigfoot? Never caught on film?


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## lone wolf (Mar 16, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> If someone had simply told me "you might not hear a burp. If you pull it a bunch if times with no burp, you are missing the burp or its not burping, so just move on to half choke." This whole fiasco could have been avoided. Also, it made such a distinct burp the first time I started it. Why would it be inconsistent?


You got to be kidding me with the "burp" no one talks like that!


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## KenJax Tree (Mar 16, 2015)

Brush Ape does[emoji1]


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## Rockjock (Mar 16, 2015)

KenJax Tree said:


> Brush Ape does[emoji1]




*Touché*


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## Chris-PA (Mar 16, 2015)

My saws only burp and fart when they have bad gas.


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## Rockjock (Mar 16, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> My saws only burp and fart when they have bad gas.




Chris that was terrible.


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## Chris-PA (Mar 16, 2015)

Rockjock said:


> Chris that was terrible.


I knew there was a bad pun in here somewhere, it just took me a day to find it.


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## Philbert (Mar 16, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> You got to be kidding me with the "burp" no one talks like that!


I have heard it described like that 100's of times, by dealers, reps, etc.

(Of course, some 'burps' are not heard, but tasted . . .)

http://www.stihl.com/step-by-step-starting.aspx

Philbert


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## lone wolf (Mar 16, 2015)

Gologit said:


> How about this...you make a video for us of your starting technique and post it for us? It might be easier to diagnose the problem if we could actually see you and what you're doing.


a lot of not burping!


Philbert said:


> I have heard it described like that 100's of times, by dealers, reps, etc.
> 
> (Of course, some 'burps' are not heard, but tasted . . .)
> 
> ...


Never in my area once.


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## Full Chisel (Mar 16, 2015)




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## angelo c (Mar 16, 2015)

drf255 said:


> If you want a used saw that's better than what you bought, post in the Tradin Post. I have a bunch of 025's that would cost you less than what you bought and would be better.



Heavens no...the 025/250 line is the "no burp" king of the fleet. Known swimmer...( flood lover)...tremendous saw that few can reliably start. 
three pulls on choke burp or not, click to fast start and pull at most three more...it will start.


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 16, 2015)

Rockjock said:


> It may have burped the first time because the fuel lines were empty. I know many of my saws will often Burp Pop when I take them out of storage for use but after that my 017, 024,025,026 and MS 361 may not pop or burp so I just do the following.
> full choke 3 pulls
> fast idle ( middle position ) 2 pulls maybe 3 and it usually fires right up
> depress or blip the throttle and it is in idle
> ...


That method is working great. Once this starts it is a much more pleasant saw to use. It floods super easy, but it is turning my backyard into sawdust and firewood now that I have the secret starting formular figured out.


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## drf255 (Mar 16, 2015)

angelo c said:


> Heavens no...the 025/250 line is the "no burp" king of the fleet. Known swimmer...( flood lover)...tremendous saw that few can reliably start.
> three pulls on choke burp or not, click to fast start and pull at most three more...it will start.


Never had any issue. May be my familiarity with saws and engines though.


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## angelo c (Mar 16, 2015)

drf255 said:


> Never had any issue. May be my familiarity with saws and engines though.


It is, once you know what to do it becomes second nature. I remember when I first started playing with saws and the old timers would say "just pull the starter cord and you can tell the compression" I thought...someday maybe I'll be "that" good. 
Getting there. But I still listen to the old timers....even if they are now younger then me...


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## lone wolf (Mar 16, 2015)

angelo c said:


> It is, once you know what to do it becomes second nature. I remember when I first started playing with saws and the old timers would say "just pull the starter cord and you can tell the compression" I thought...someday maybe I'll be "that" good.
> Getting there. But I still listen to the old timers....even if they are now younger then me...


That works even better if you have the same model next to it and compare.


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## Chris-PA (Mar 16, 2015)

You can tell by the balance problems that it's a Stihl.


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## lone wolf (Mar 16, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> You can tell by the balance problems that it's a Stihl.


Like how a 346 cant even sit on flat ground without falling over half the time that kind of balance?


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## angelo c (Mar 16, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> You can tell by the balance problems that it's a Stihl.




Don't blame the company....just blame the "engineers".....Lord knows those guys are drunken sandy toads....


can't even figure out where to put clutches and all....for less then $180 a saw...sheesh


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## Chris-PA (Mar 16, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> Like how a 346 cant even sit on flat ground without falling over half the time that kind of balance?


It's just trying to get to the wood - you're probably not used to that what with waiting for Stihls to burp and all!



angelo c said:


> can't even figure out where to put clutches and all....for less then $180 a saw...sheesh


Lol - is the melted plastic case extra? Heck for that dough I can get a 50cc Poulan with a metal clutch cover!


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## lone wolf (Mar 16, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> It's just trying to get to the wood - you're probably not used to that what with waiting for Stihls to burp and all!
> 
> 
> Lol - is the melted plastic case extra? Heck for that dough I can get a 50cc Poulan with a metal clutch cover!


You really don't like any Stihls huh?


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## angelo c (Mar 16, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> It's just trying to get to the wood - you're probably not used to that what with waiting for Stihls to burp and all!
> 
> 
> Lol - is the melted plastic case extra? Heck for that dough I can get a 50cc Poulan with a metal clutch cover!



Reading the manual...free
Learning to run a chainsaw WITHOUT the brake on...priceless

who you kidding...you would never spend "that" kinda money an ANY saw....


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## Chris-PA (Mar 16, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> You really don't like any Stihls huh?


LOL - I just ripping on Stihl heads! I only have cheap saws, nothing pro from Stihl, Husky or that other company - 'cause I'm cheap. In general I appreciate innovative designs rather than particular brands.


angelo c said:


> Reading the manual...free
> Learning to run a chainsaw WITHOUT the brake on...priceless
> 
> who you kidding...you would never spend "that" kinda money an ANY saw....


Lol - how much money does a Stihl manual cost anyway?! (you're killin' me!)


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## lone wolf (Mar 16, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> LOL - I just ripping on Stihl heads! I only have cheap saws, nothing pro from Stihl, Husky or that other company - 'cause I'm cheap. In general I appreciate innovative designs rather than particular brands.
> 
> Lol - how much money does a Stihl manual cost anyway?! (you're killin' me!)


Sell all the cheap ones and get a new pro.


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## angelo c (Mar 16, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> LOL - I just ripping on Stihl heads! I only have cheap saws, nothing pro from Stihl, Husky or that other company - 'cause I'm cheap. In general I appreciate innovative designs rather than particular brands.
> 
> Lol - how much money does a Stihl manual cost anyway?! (you're killin' me!)



Not a thing...I'll send you any PDF's you need....you engineers can still read PDF's right ?
or did y'all have to come up with some new print media reading thingee ma bobber just so us "normal" people don't get mixed up in one o dem weird digit number conversations y'all are always wantin to have with each other.... 

yer up buddy....


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## Chris-PA (Mar 16, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> Sell all the cheap ones and get a new pro.


Nah, I had too much fun porting most of them, and many were built from used saws - and they run and work too well. They're all good, useful tools that cut my firewood easily and I don't have to worry about what I spent.


angelo c said:


> Not a thing...I'll send you any PDF's you need....you engineers can still read PDF's right ?
> or did y'all have to come up with some new print media reading thingee ma bobber just so us "normal" people don't get mixed up in one o dem weird digit number conversations y'all are always wantin to have with each other....
> 
> yer up buddy....


Oh, sure we can read simple words, but an equation would be easier. See I though they were like those top secret Stihl IPL's that you can only get from the DHS after passing a background check. You sure wouldn't want to let just anyone download them.....

Alright, I'm out - gotta hit the hay!


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## angelo c (Mar 16, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> Nah, I had too much fun porting most of them, and many were built from used saws - and they run and work too well. They're all good, useful tools that cut my firewood easily and I don't have to worry about what I spent.
> 
> Oh, sure we can read simple words, but an equation would be easier. See I though they were like those top secret Stihl IPL's that you can only get from the DHS after passing a background check. You sure wouldn't want to let just anyone download them.....
> 
> Alright, I'm out - gotta hit the hay!



Night buddy, 
Talk to ya tomorrow .


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## Fubar (Mar 17, 2015)

rd35 said:


> Hey there...Sorry to hear your first Stihl experience is not so good. Hope this story helps a bit. I, too, had an old homelite saw that would ALWAYS start, rain or shine. Got my first Stihl, brand new MS260, and it wouldn't run right. Took it back to the dealer and he put a new carb on it. Had a couple of other issues with it that really soured me on that saw....but after I worked out the bugs I slowly, over time, grew to love that saw. Light weight, dependable, always starts now, and cuts wood like crazy. I realized that, like most things, my relationship with that saw is somewhat like a long term relationship with a friend or co-worker. Everybody has their little quirks and it take a little while to work through those issues and move on. Same way with a chainsaw. Once you learn little things like what a "burp" actually is, then you can consistently use it with good success! I'm confident you will learn to love that 170. Especially when you pick up an old homelite and realize how heavy and cumbersome it is compared to your saw.


shoot a couple of mis-comp's on a brand new saw and i drop it back in the dealer's lap like dropping a fat chick on a hot date that doesn't put out . lol


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## Fubar (Mar 17, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> You really don't like any Stihls huh?



i like the old ones that say made in Germany ,


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## lone wolf (Mar 17, 2015)

Fubar said:


> i like the old ones that say made in Germany ,


Oh yeah!


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## 7sleeper (Mar 17, 2015)

Fubar said:


> i like the old ones that say made in Germany ,


They sometimes don't burp as well...

7


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## homemade (Mar 17, 2015)

I guess you should have bought an electric. Sounds more your speed.


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## Fubar (Mar 17, 2015)

7sleeper said:


> They sometimes don't burp as well...
> 
> 7


you are exactly right ,certain ones of the 0 models could be quite finicky , the farm i worked on as a teen had a 034 we named ole faithful , it would start the first or second pull every time.


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## Fubar (Mar 17, 2015)

homemade said:


> I guess you should have bought an electric. Sounds more your speed.


sure everyone could use a good electric chainsaw , they are handy and quiet , i have a couple of electric chainsaws i use every chance i get , i am looking for a more powerful one like this.
MSE220


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## Philbert (Mar 17, 2015)

Fubar said:


> . . . i have a couple of electric chainsaws i use every chance i get , i am looking for a more powerful one like this.
> MSE220



Check out this thread - user comments on a number of electric saws, not just the one in the title.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-oregon-corded-electric-chainsaw.268379/

Philbert


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## MyStihlWontStart (Mar 18, 2015)

homemade said:


> I guess you should have bought an electric. Sounds more your speed.


I might get a cordless electric.


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## Fubar (Mar 18, 2015)

MyStihlWontStart said:


> I might get a cordless electric.


this looks promising , i would like to check one out myself .


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## Philbert (Mar 18, 2015)

First time I have seen the Echo! Thanks!

More cordless info in these threads:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-and-other-36v-cordless-chainsaw.177392/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/review-oregon-powernow-cordless-chainsaw.179262/

Philbert


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## Vibes (Mar 18, 2015)

I haven't read this whole thread but check for simple problems first. 

I bought a Jonsered 2238 at Tractor Supply last Christmas that had a tag on it that said "Customer Return bad gas" . I paid $75 for it. It had an issue starting sometimes. I took saw apart and it turned out the little plastic lever wasn't disengageing the kill switch lever all the way. I cleaned up the snags with a file and that was it. New saw with warraunty for $75


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## SAWsquatch (Aug 31, 2015)

having problems with my ms170 as well. I'm quite handy with 2 strokes and have done anything any everything i can think of.

Fuel is not a problem( got clean gas in carb after I cleaned and reopened to re-clean) Have spark. Kill switch has been unplugged so that can't be it.

I was carving in the AM, took a break for an hour came back and saw won't start. give it 5 to 10 pulls nothing but can smell gas, and everytime it is flooded. i then pull plug dry/clean and then pull and blow out gas. then retry and same problem over and over been 2 days now still no luck.

Ignition Coil Module was my next guess.....any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## angelo c (Aug 31, 2015)

SAWsquatch said:


> having problems with my ms170 as well. I'm quite handy with 2 strokes and have done anything any everything i can think of.
> 
> Fuel is not a problem( got clean gas in carb after I cleaned and reopened to re-clean) Have spark. Kill switch has been unplugged so that can't be it.
> 
> ...



What are you checking the spark with AFTER the saw will not start?


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## KenJax Tree (Aug 31, 2015)

Does it burp?[emoji1]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SAWsquatch (Aug 31, 2015)

does nothing has compression though. i checked spark plug, which had spark i bought 2 spare plugs with the same result using those as well


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## SAWsquatch (Aug 31, 2015)

it did this a week ago i put it down for the night and it worked again the next day but no such luck this time.


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## SAWsquatch (Aug 31, 2015)

i even took off muffler and looked at piston and rings to check if they got melted when carving but they were perfectly fine no scratches could be seen.


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## angelo c (Aug 31, 2015)

SAWsquatch said:


> i even took off muffler and looked at piston and rings to check if they got melted when carving but they were perfectly fine no scratches could be seen.


Take the muffle back off and drop a few drops of mix on top of the piston. 
Should fire. And be real loud. !!!!
Check fuel tank vent for pressure / vac


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## SAWsquatch (Aug 31, 2015)

where is fuel tank vent? when i took the carb off the second time the fuel wanted to spray out all over the place which it usually doesn't do everytime a clean a carb which i though was weird.


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## SAWsquatch (Aug 31, 2015)

and when putting fuel on piston i then replace everything or keep muffler off?


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## angelo c (Sep 1, 2015)

SAWsquatch said:


> where is fuel tank vent? when i took the carb off the second time the fuel wanted to spray out all over the place which it usually doesn't do everytime a clean a carb which i though was weird.


 You can leave the muffler off for a short loud run. Don't run it too long w/o muffler. We just wanna confirm we have spark/air/compression.
Tank vent is usually a 'valve' of some sort usually off the left hand side of the tank handle with a hose coming out of it. If you can snap a pic of the back of the handle facing the carb. We can show you. But if you got mix shooting out that's good. Before you remove a fuel line from carb release pressure by loosening the fuel cap and allowing it to release. Should limit the shooting. 
You can just try to start it with a cap loose too. That's a valve check as well. Obviously make sure you have the mix lower then the cap level for that.


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## VinceGU05 (Sep 1, 2015)

Crap under the needle in the carb or diaphragm plunger for the needle is set too high. Causing it to flood ?


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## SAWsquatch (Sep 5, 2015)

well thanks guys, i don't know what happened. Got stuck in a town all week so hadn't seen my saws. Thought I might jus try it real quick before the pouring of fuel on piston, and I heard a sputter. flipped to idle and after maybe 25 awkward pulls( had to keep pulled for motor to even try to start, if it recoiled it wouldn't even sputter)got it going. Ran a tank, and then about half of another tank. Now seems to start great again in 1 - 2 pulls. So once again it fixed itself


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## SAWsquatch (Sep 6, 2015)

I have now used two full days and running like a champ, was it most likely gunk buildup?


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## Philbert (Sep 6, 2015)

Glad that it is working!

Philbert


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## angelo c (Sep 6, 2015)

SAWsquatch said:


> I have now used two full days and running like a champ, was it most likely gunk buildup?



Flooded.

If a saw don't start or you MISS the burp after 5 pulls WITH the choke on, take the choke off (and pull yer arm off if ya feel the need to. just don't do it with the choke ON)---it will flood.


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## SAWsquatch (Sep 7, 2015)

yes it was flooding evertime before without firing.


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