# How would you drop this tree?



## blsnelling (Apr 19, 2011)

I'd like you guys input on the best way to drop this tree. Either way I go about this, I will use my pull rope for insurance, since they're so close to the buildings. BTW, this tree is on my BILs fathers property in Alabama where I vacation sometimes.

1. I could drop each of the two stems individually, but this would require cutting over my head or standing on something.

2. Fall them both together.

3. Should I strap the trunk together just below the Y to insure the trunk doesn't split.

4. Should I pull on both leads simultaneously if falling them together?


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## 2dogs (Apr 19, 2011)

It sounds like you know the answer. I would first inspect the tree and esp the crotch union. If it is OK, which it looks like it is, I would then strap the union together with a chain binder and fall as one toward the direction of the last pic.

I would always use a rope when the tree is that close to a structure. The rope should be set as high as possible consistent with trunk or limb strength. The rope should be at least 1 1/2 times as long as the tree is tall (100' tree-150' rope). Pickup trucks don't work well for hard pulls but this tree looks to just need tension. A 1/2" rope should do OK. I will only pull with 5/8" Stable Braid or larger but that gets expensive if you don't already own that rope.

Buy yourself a throw bag and Zing-It and a pouch if you don't already own them. Practise, always wearing a hard hat, till you feel comfortable. Set your line over a sturdy limb, pull the rope through and tie it off. Don't pull the bull rope to hard, just enough to pre-tension the tree. 

BTW do you have a good running saw and a sharp chain? If not I can lend you a saw.:msp_tongue:


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## CentaurG2 (Apr 19, 2011)

Park the 70’ next to her, put up the alpine and chunk her down. A lot of them leaders don’t look like they have a lot of structural integrity left in them. Be real careful if you go pokin' it with a saw. If you don’t already, this is a good tree to wear a helmet around.


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## blsnelling (Apr 19, 2011)

I use a 150' 3/4" rope for pulling. I'll have to check the aresenal to see if I have anything up to the task


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## K7NUT (Apr 19, 2011)

2dogs said:


> It sounds like you know the answer.
> 
> I would always use a rope when the tree is that close to a structure.



I think you got it!?
The pictures don't show where your wanting to drop it, but I guess if that was an issue, you would have included it?
I second the rope trick. My wife and I decided to drop this Maple tree in our back yard and because last summer we, re-sided, new windows, wiring, plumbing, whole new kitchen(on the other side of that wall) and a new metal roof! I too was VERY concerned about that tree going the "wrong" way! I did just what anyone would do to any tree, cut my notch, but I also had the wife pull some pressure the way we wanted it to go, just for good measure(notice the orange Big-Rig tie down on the ground). Went right where we wanted it to go. If you use a rope and a truck, I think you'll be just fine.:msp_thumbsup:

OK, OK, my Maple is'nt close to this tree, but I think it's still relevant being the structure is so close!?











OK, It's a cheesy shot, I couldn't resist!


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## Sagetown (Apr 19, 2011)

> 2dogs ~ I would then strap the union together with a chain binder and *fall as one* toward the direction of the last pic.



+1 maintaining steady rope tension directing the fall.


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## ChipMonger (Apr 19, 2011)

I was in a situation like this once before and while it was a bad tree (didnt know this till after, by all counts it was stable) i dealt with it the same way by in essence lashing the two stems together. One stem snapped under very little load while i was starting my back cut. Good thing i was looking up, i barely got out of the way. I left my saw, it survived unscathed. If it were me...im a bit of a goon lol, but i would cut them individually. Thats my opinion and we know what those are like:msp_tongue:


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## PARTSWOODCHUCK (Apr 19, 2011)

I would tie the rope in it, but try to wedge it over first. If the wedges won't do it pull it gently. I've seen a few go backwards because people pulled too hard on the rope


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## Storm56 (Apr 19, 2011)

I am not a pro and do not profess to be one. However I have dropped my fair share of trees around buildings etc. I have a 1/2 inch steel cable that I use when needed. Others have already mentioned chaining the crotch together. 

But what I do different is to use an anchor point such as another tree that will drop the tree where I want, then use a snatch block pulley and connect the other end to a beefy tractor etc. I then have the person driving the equipment tension the cable. Then I cut my notch and do the back cut, but leave a couple inches of hinge. At that time after getting out of the way, I have the driver pull over the tree. It always goes just where you want it because you are completely controlling the direction and start of the fall.

You just need to be sure the equipment is heavy enough and do not leave too much hinge so it will break when the driver pulls. Dropped many trees this way in tight places with never an issue. 

Have also done the job when no anchor is available, it just requires a bit more planning.


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## sawinredneck (Apr 19, 2011)

Lots of problems with this tree, it's a Maple, it's old, it's close to a structure and you have no idea what condition it's in without climbing it and doing an examination!
I've worked a lot of old Maples, every one is different! The 14" limb you were just standing on might be hollow and drop with the next gust of wind. One leader may be solid and the other hollow. One leader may be hollow more than half way up and fall opposite way of the tree. You may put in a rope, load it and start to pull and snap the leaders right off sending the spar backwards into the buildings. The trunk may sound solid and be rotted out wood in the heartwood.
Like I said, I've seen lots of these old Maples and seen them do some impossible things, in my mind at least, because I underestimated them! NEVER underestimate them and NEVER think you have them figured out!


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## Tzed250 (Apr 19, 2011)

Call a professional tree service that has insurance should something go wrong.


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## beastmaster (Apr 19, 2011)

I think I would take em one at a time. I my self would probably remove a few limbs especially those going against the direction I wanted to fall the sticks. Maybe take out even a top or two. Im kind of a sissy these days on removals and try to eliminate all potential for something to go wrong. It may take longer, but it takes only one mishap to ruin the whole job. 
Removing both leaders at once with all the limbs intact its hard to judge things. It could twist or a piece could brake out, If your cut wasn't perfect she could fall side ways.
You more them likely could get a way with taking it all in one cut, but with the leans and branches and being that close to a structure, there is the slight chance something could go wrong. Take an extra hour and make it safe. It may look different standing there then in the photo too. But like I said I'm not as brave as I use to be. Beastmaster


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## oscar4883 (Apr 19, 2011)

I would probably remove a bunch of that ugly stuff in the lower 2/3rds or so and make a call from there to take them both at the same time or individually. I am leaning towards taking each one separate. I like a mechanic advantage system for most pulling.


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## forestryworks (Apr 19, 2011)

You gotta pick it up before you can drop it :hmm3grin2orange:


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## Tree Pig (Apr 19, 2011)

One thing I know is that pic is an awesome example of how a tree (especially a maple) will attempt to sustain itself by producing suckers after someone removes way too many of the leaf producing branches. Great pics BJ thanks.

That tree looks like a chick from a 1970's adult movies (cant type ####o) bush





Oh yeah maybe trade some saw work for getting someone to drop it for you safely. Some times you have to ask if its worth the risk if there is other options.


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## redoakneck (Apr 19, 2011)

Tzed250 said:


> Call a professional tree service that has insurance should something go wrong.


 

+1...

At least make sure you have insurance if you are going to do that one!!!!!


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## belgian (Apr 19, 2011)

I know you know your way around chainsaws, but that tree is a bit tricky to take down. Like redneck said, do study that tree carefully, a lot of things can go wrong.

I just learned my lesson taking down a tree at my folks place and got away with it, but when that tree sat back on my saw, I nearly [email protected] my pants. No more dangerous trees for me.

Since it's not your money, have them hire a treeclimber that is all familar with this kind of job. Well worth the money if he gets the job done safely.


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## sprung22 (Apr 19, 2011)

Dont Drop It.Pay for my gas down there and ill climb it and chunk it down for ya Brad.But I get to use your ported saws


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## rwoods (Apr 19, 2011)

Tzed250 said:


> Call a professional tree service that has insurance should something go wrong.


 
+2 IMO Unless your going to chunk it down. There is too much at risk to cut it at the base as a favor. Ron


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## z71mike (Apr 19, 2011)

I like the idea Storm56 had. That's how I do things too.

But for a favor like that, I wouldn't touch anything before having the guy sign a waiver. I don't care how close a friend or relative it is, I'll make them sign something that keeps my nose clean. They look at me weird, but I get the job done. Luckily I've never needed to 'use' the waiver yet, knock on wood.


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## 2dogs (Apr 19, 2011)

Brad I neglected to metion (and it has been bugging me all day) that old trees around structures often have tramp metal in them from years ago. It is not as important during the face cut but during the back cut your saw needs to cut fast. Just be careful of those first two inches, bark and wood, that there is no metal to dull your chain.

If you are not already a climber now is not the time to learn. I disagree with those that say climb it. Stay out of the tree and stay on the ground. And, no ladder either!


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## fishercat (Apr 19, 2011)

*i agree with some other posts.*



blsnelling said:


> I'd like you guys input on the best way to drop this tree. Either way I go about this, I will use my pull rope for insurance, since they're so close to the buildings. BTW, this tree is on my BILs fathers property in Alabama where I vacation sometimes.
> 
> 1. I could drop each of the two stems individually, but this would require cutting over my head or standing on something.
> 
> ...


 
Be careful! Not sure how long you're staying when you go down but you could pick me up on the way down or I might be game for a road trip.

Id climb it but I know not everyone has that option.id hate for you to pull and have a problem the the structural integrity of the tree.

I've pull a lot bigger monsters than that with 1/2 stable braid and a toyota. Its all in the weight distribution on the tree and the cuts.


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## jefflovstrom (Apr 19, 2011)

Dang funny thread! 
Jeff :hmm3grin2orange:


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## BlackenedTimber (Apr 19, 2011)

Chain it, notch and back cut close to the ground. Hang your bull rope high on the strongest leader you have. Get a 2-ton Maasdaam hoist or similar, and rig it to an anchor point in the direction you want the tree to fall. I wouldn't advise the truck, I have seen trucks lose traction and the tree fall over backwards.

Use a trucker's hitch to take the slack out of the bull rope when you hook it to the hoist. Pre-tension the rope after making your notch, then start your back cut. Have a second man on the hoist, which I am hoping you are smart enough to position out of the drop zone of the tree. Finish the back cut while sufficient tension on the bull rope is applied via the hoist to keep the tree from falling toward the house. Once the back cut is finished, leaving only the hinge, have man 2 click away on the hoistuntil the tree comes over. 

Hoists are available at box stores for about 40 bucks.

Good luck and STAY SAFE.


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## beastmaster (Apr 20, 2011)

Its not that difficult of a tree guys. Are there not no other climbers on this thread? It an easy tree, but all that talk of hooking it up to trucks and tractors and trying to horse it over is asking for trouble. 
Limb it, and piece it out tell you have an easily managed stick and then pull it over. There appears to be a nice drop zone. Moving from one side to the other you can take them down together. Once those lower branches are off and a top taking out of each side those trunks will be a piece of cake. You could easily take both sides together if it was limbed and the tops taking out.
Finding just the right spot to tie off so it won't twist could be difficult with the all the different leans and branches counterbalancing it. 
Its hard to say from a photo. maybe standing there it looks like a easy fall. I'm leaning on the steal cable and the tractor idea, be sure to get a running start. beastmaster


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## hanniedog (Apr 20, 2011)

Have a pro get it on the ground then you can take it from there. I just cut firewood but see a very bad down side if things wouldn't go as planned.


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## imagineero (Apr 20, 2011)

my vote goes to 'not that difficult of a tree'. If it was hacked up some time ago then it probably is pretty dead (and snappy) despite all the visible epicormic. This means wedges aren't going to lean it over for you (though they will hold the cut open) and the hinge is likely to snap rather than fold. Treat it as brittle.

Without seeing the tree in person, its pretty hard to make a call or give advice. If the tree is dead and stiff, then pulling over has some risks, and maybe a bit more risky than climbing (as long as you're a competent climber!). If the tree has rot then obviously climbing is out. I'm going to assume you're not a climber, but a semi competent faller (who can make a reasonably accurate notch) and that falling is the best option for you.

If you decide to fall and the tree is green, then things will go fine. Set a rope about 2/3 up and hitch it to a whinch on a truck if you have one, otherwise the lowest geared truck/vehicle you have available. If the vehicle has only road tyres then try to keep it on the road. I'd take it all in one go, nice big notch (90 degrees) with plenty of depth in to the tree (1/3). Take up the slack on the pull line. Take your back cut as per normal, pop a wedge in for safety, and continue through until you have about 10" holding wood. Back away from the tree at this point and pull her over. Now go celebrate.

If the tree is dead and stiff, then you need to approach it with a lighter touch. Heavy handed pulling leads to mid-tree snapping, or snapping out limbs, all of which can have disastrous consequences. I'd still fall it, but you'd hope to have a whinch or a low geared truck. Set the rope 2/3 up, but dont go any higher. Take the wedge, then take up the slack only, dont tension. Start the back cut and pop a wedge in. You are likely to be overly conservative on holding wood with a dead tree, they often wont fold, they just snap... and they do it when they have barely a wafer left sometimes. You want to use the least amount of force possible to bring it over, so get down to about 10% then try to pull it *gently*. If it isnt going, don't force it. Let the tension off (very important) and keep cutting that holding wood. Then back away and try to pull it again. When it's ready to go, it will go easy, don't force it over. Be sure to ease the tension off before you go back in to keep going with the back cut.

Everything will go just fine.

Shaun


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## gwiley (Apr 20, 2011)

When you feel a gut check, take extra measures to ensure it goes the way you want it to.

I had 2 go wrong in one day. The first was obviously standing dead, I sounded it with a hammer it thought it might be hollow - decided to do it anyway. When I cut the face out I saw that it was almost completely rotted from the inside - not enough wood to wedge with. I made the back cut anyway - not sure why, and of course it sat back on the saw. I am sure my buddies enjoyed seeing me sprint for my pull line. We got it down with the pull line and a backhoe, but I won't do that again. When in doubt the line goes up.

The second had a definitive lean and I just ignored it thinking the wedges would handle it - it fell exactly backwards. Nothing damaged on that one other than my pride (2 friends nearby laughing at my obvious screw up).


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## sgreanbeans (Apr 20, 2011)

wow


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## sgreanbeans (Apr 20, 2011)

Winning


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## fishercat (Apr 20, 2011)

*at least two of us offered to climb it.*

I thing Brad's afftraid that will rob him of too much fun. I admit,I still enjoy watching the whole thing coming down at once.

I could still pull it over with a Toyota 4x4 as long as its solid.

All anyone can do without seeing it in person is guess. I still don't know what kind of drop zone you're working with.

Best of luck and be safe!


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## z71mike (Apr 20, 2011)

Whichever way you pick to drop it, please do us all a favor and catch it on video. Post it up here later. We all have so much invested in this project by now! hahaha I wanna see how it goes.


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## trimmmed (Apr 20, 2011)

Tzed250 said:


> Call a professional tree service that has insurance should something go wrong.



this is the correct answer!


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## flushcut (Apr 20, 2011)

If it were me I would shoot a line up high and pull it over. If there were no targets I would just wedge it over. The tree looks pretty well balanced from your pics and should favor the face with little pressure. From the pics it looks like binding the trunk is not necessary just cut it low, but if there are any signs of a split bind the trunk above and below the main crotch and call a climber or use a bucket. You are going to tear up the lawn pretty good with that largish limb on the fall side but that adds leverage in your favor. Also if you have a bad feeling about it don't do anything call a pro in the area.


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## Rftreeman (Apr 22, 2011)

first you got to start by yelling......"*HEY Y'ALL, WATCH THIS*".......


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## prentice110 (Apr 22, 2011)

The thing that scares me on that tree is havin a dead limb come loose and hittin the roof. I'd def use wegdes and a rope. Love to drop it whole, one shot at the base, but Im not there looking at it. Hate to cut a notch and see shes rotted to hell inside. I wouldnt strap the leads together, but again, its a pic, Im not there.


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## dingeryote (Apr 22, 2011)

Anybody else ever have a Co dominate tree split and go all heywire part way in to the back cut?

Even with a chain or straps, there is a lot of leverage above the possible point of leverage should the thing start to split and no shortage of twisting forces on the hinge.

I vote for individual stems, lotsa wedge/pull, and dealing with some sort of platform...or calling a Saw monkey buddy.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## Rowan Gliori (Apr 22, 2011)

I'd climb it, carefully (but I'm a climber already). We call it a "dismantle" here (UK), it kinda reminds me of a large diseased elm I did a few weeks ago overhanging a hotel. Lowering rope and section dismantle (take one of these lads up on the offer of a climber!). 

If you do decide to just drop it, I'd do the stems separately, and put your cuts in a reasonable height above the fork. It looks suspect to me (just my opinion...).


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## Bigus Termitius (Apr 22, 2011)

Just drop it, already....:msp_biggrin:

We really need better pics of the base, but it looks better than most from here. Wanna have an idea what is inside? Plunge it or, better yet, drill it.

I'd cut the low branch on the drop side and put a rope in it and bring it over nice and easy. Leave as much hinge wood as possible, with slightly more on the side away from the house. Feel free to use wedges.

If memory serves me, Ekka might suggest a second rope *anchored* perpendicular to the drop zone to discourage it from heading towards the house. I'm not opposed to that idea as long as this line is installed in the house side leader, obviously. 

If you want it in two, (which isn't the worst idea) take the far side first and take the second at the base, if suitable. If this is not possible, consider bringing it down piecemeal. I wouldn't want to fell the house side leader above the fork on this tree for a couple of reasons.

-if something goes wrong you are at a huge disadvantage.

-there is a good chance that leader is hollow or rotted.

-you have much more control, leverage, and wood to work with at the base, unless it is completely shot, which doesn't appear to be the case.

When in doubt, bring in a pro.


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## randyg (Apr 22, 2011)

*How would I drop this tree?*

Couple wraps around the base with 3/8s chain and binder midway between crotch and backcut with binder placed on house side so it will not end up under the log. Next, another chain or strong rope to tie both halves together at 15 feet or so off the ground (just above those first two large limbs), higher would be better if you had a climber. {I know straps are crazy strong but the ratchety part, not so much.} Pull line would go in each half (somewhere between 1/2 and 2/3rds of the way to the crown). If one half seemed like it needed more pull, place that line higher. That 150' rope of yours would work fine for this, one end in each half. Walk the pull rope all the way back in the direction of the fall and tie a double figure 8 loop Figure 8 Double Loop | How to tie the Figure 8 Double Loop | Climbing Knots 

Do NOT try a running bolin around both halves to pull together and over at the same time. To many bad things will happen to list here. Do not pull on only one side as this will create undesireable twist at base. Do not try this on a very windy day unless the wind is directly in your favor. Two wedges in the back cut about a foot or so apart (one for each half) and keep em snug with palm of hand. Do NOT tap them with a hammer/axe as the shock wave can go up the tree and possibly send pieces down on you or house. Only pull as hard as necessary to keep the tree upright while making felling cuts. Leaving between 4 and 6 inches of hingewood, with a nice clean face cut, s l o w l y pull it over. 

Way I see it, if you don't have all the gear needed, either borrow or buy the rest. If you back out on this one, and some "pro" drops part or all on the house, even with insurance and all, it will still be YOUR FAULT for not having done it the right way? And with family, those things seem to NEVER go away:msp_rolleyes:


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## Bigus Termitius (Apr 22, 2011)

"Pro" can certainly be a relative term.

A true "pro" would have it down already with no troubles whatsoever at a fair and affordable price, (likely NOT the cheapest if they are really a well-equipped professional with experience and insurance….get a certificate from their provider) it happens every day, especially if no cleanup is required. Not to mention that at least a pro *has insurance*. How can anyone with a lick of sense reasonably blame you for calling in an insured professional? In fact, let *them *call the pro if you are not comfortable. Then it is entirely on them, there is no shame in walking away from anything you are not comfortable with doing.

How many halfarse wanna Bs, with animosity towards the true professionals they are envious of, have screwed up big time where the overall bill, (hospital’s or funeral home’s too often included) makes the professional’s bill look like a coffee shop tip? This too happens every day. 

And even when they are successful, they are still operating with gross reckless irresponsibility for all parties involved, but hey, what can you do with Axmen still influencing the masses.

Accidents can happen to anybody, no question, howbeit, with a pro the scope and frequency pales in comparison, especially with relation to experience and proper equipment.

And I’m not saying someone can’t do their homework and figure out a right way to do something like this successfully. This also happens every day, and then, at least, they’ve no one else to blame.

Bottom line, get educated, lots of good applicable advice here in this thread, good luck and *be safe*.

When in doubt, support your local Arborist and enjoy the free firewood.


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## Stihl Rules (Apr 22, 2011)

Tzed250 said:


> Call a professional tree service that has insurance should something go wrong.


Insurance is always a plus.


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## Youngbuck20 (Apr 22, 2011)

"winning!!!" love it hahaha!!


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## treemandan (Apr 23, 2011)

I would not want to just notch and drop that even if both sides were secured together.


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## beastmaster (Apr 23, 2011)

Its not down yet?


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## Ertreesurgeon (Apr 23, 2011)

Easy. Put a rope on each lead(2 total). This is for insurance. Put at least 2/3 the way up on a sound section of wood. Use a standard notch with the bottom cut as low as possible. These are codominate stems most likely with included bark, so the lower the notch the better. It would also be preferable to put the notch perpendicular to the crotch. Not to deep on the notch. No bypass cuts on the notch( this is crucial).tension rope then back cut. You can use wedges for more insurance if there is a negative lean. You want your hinge wood at about 5-10% of trunk diameter. When your getting close to that that's when you start to pull the tree over. I think two 1/2" ropes are fine.


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## DangerTree (Apr 26, 2011)

That tree is a piece of cake. If you have to ask on a tree like that call a beaver. Have any of you experts even thought to mention that you might try sounding the branches at the union? Maybe sound the trunk with your saw with a vertical plunge cut. Not a big tree you could pull it by hand for Christ sake. Oops I said Christ just cut it down and get it over with.


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## 056 kid (May 2, 2011)

Like 2 dogs said, look for metal. You have 150' of rope, get it up in the tree closest to the house, Make a good face more than 1/3 through, make SURE you keep wood all the way across,(with doubles the most important wood is in the middle of the hinge if you are falling them fork flat). Start a back cut and do it like I have watched you do it before in your vids. That tree might have some dote in it, but I kind of doubt there is any significant rot in it. I looked at the photoes again and it looks like the tree's branch weight would make it fall away from the house. It looks like a pin Oak from the pics.. That union looks strong too. . .


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## bitzer (May 2, 2011)

Springboard and someone a tuggin. I've had too many of those split out. Oh yeah, Look up!


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## DangerTree (May 7, 2011)

That twig ain't splitting any time soon. Even if it did big deal whats it gonna hurt- look at it! Just tie a rope around it and get some scrawny wimp to grunt while a gentle breeze pushes it over. That's a trainer tree for a girl scout. An easy money tree! Two guys could throw that whole tree branches and all right into my chipper.:bang:


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## coolhand850 (Mar 22, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> I'd like you guys input on the best way to drop this tree. Either way I go about this, I will use my pull rope for insurance, since they're so close to the buildings. BTW, this tree is on my BILs fathers property in Alabama where I vacation sometimes.
> 
> 1. I could drop each of the two stems individually, but this would require cutting over my head or standing on something.
> 
> ...


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## coolhand850 (Mar 22, 2015)

Despite what others may think, I would fell each stem separately. I would use the stem you are not going to fell first to work out of in preparation to fell the first stem. IMO it is always easier and safer to set up your rigging line and climbing line in a tree that is not the one you are climbing in. It is easier to swing branches and blocks in a direction away from you if you have the luxury of not having to run your rigging line, and more importantly your life support/climbing line in the tree you are not removing. However, if you have room to drop the tree whole without climbing it at all all the better. Looking at the picture, with the house so nearby, I would definitely climb and remove a considerable amount of it before you drop it. If you have a high powered and very strong winch you could secure the cable near the top and notch it and cut it down, but I would not taking any chances. Climb one side and tie in, set your rigging and start piecing it out. If nothing else remove one side of it and then drop it. Make your notch and back cut above the point where the two stem union begins. I look at it as basically removing two separate trees, and I would approach it as such. I do not have any large equipment and would have no other options. I guess it depends on what kind of equipment you have at your disposal. Unfortunately, despite all the equipment I own, I do not have the money to purchase bucket trucks, pulpwood trucks, and high powered winches. I would also like to own a skidder, and bobcat. Compared to some of the treees I have been removing of late your job looks like a vacation to me lol. As you know though, even the easy looking removals never seem to be as easy as you think when you bid and ultimately are hired by the owner. Bidding tree work may be the most difficult part of being an arborist. In my home of rural Alabama I am continually confronted with the problem of bidding too much and not getting the job, or bidding too little and not making enough money for the effort I put in. I make my living as a freelance arborist by telling clients I can do the job cheaper than the big companies, but I let them know that for that break in cost they cannot expect it to happen overnight. If their is a time limit on how long I have to get the trees on the ground than they need to hire the big money tree companies. The basic rate for a mid range tree company around here usually runs the client around 250 an hour. Most people in dirt poor Alabama where I live have no problem with me taking much longer than the high price companies because they know it will be done correctly and not break their bank. I often wish I was capable to make the same amount of money on a job without having to spend so much time on each one. I do like knowing that I can come an go as I please, which is the primary reason I became an arborist in the first place. My years of punching a clock for the man is over. Thank God


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