# How to get comfortable on spurs?



## Thillmaine (Jun 30, 2007)

This sounds like a pretty stupid question with an obvious answer, but how do you guys get comfortable on spurs. I started spurless but do own a pair of gaffs, and have used them many a time, but never feel 100% on them. A co-worker of mine suggested velcro wraps, said they give you a lot more stability in the tree. Besides the obvious answer of just get experience anybody have tips to increase the confidence of a climber new to spikes?
Sometimes when you are pushing off a big peice away from you then you get that nasty jolt, I almost ???? my pants trying to hang on, and feel uncomfortable that I might gaff out.. Any suggestions>?


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## ddhlakebound (Jun 30, 2007)

Quality pads or wraps up top, that keep the shank positioned and comfortable, and distribute the pressure over your leg. 

Adjust the shank height so it sits about 2" below the top of your calf.

Wrap your lower strap around the shank before going to the buckle, helps stabilize them even more. 

Good sharp spikes. Stomp 'em in good for those bouncy cuts. 

Use an adjustable friction saver for a false crotch if no natual crotch is available, but be tied in twice all the time your'e cutting, and even moreso when letting the top down and going for a ride, so even if you gaff out, you're not going anywhere. 

Hope this helps. The more time you get on them, the more comfortable you will be.


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## BostonBull (Jun 30, 2007)

When I was a linesman and was learning to climb on hooks. They had us go up to four feet circle the pole and come back down, then when we are comfy there go up to 10' then 15' etc etc etc.

THEN we would all get up on the pole at the top and pass a basketball back and forth, if you missed/dropped it you had to go down and get it.

We also had to get used to having our hooks in the pole and stretching out upside down and having our hooks up by our lanyards.

One more exercise was to take one hook out of the pole cross it over our other leg, and lean face towards the ground and pull up a handline, or catch something from the groundie.

Theres no replacement for time in your hooks.

Its like running a saw. You wont get better until you use it more.


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## rahtreelimbs (Jun 30, 2007)

Once your hooks are in "good" rotate your feet in so that the balls of your feet are against the spar also................kind of a 4 point hold!


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## beowulf343 (Jul 1, 2007)

Keep 'em sharp.
It just takes time and use to get comfortable using them.


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## Dadatwins (Jul 1, 2007)

beowulf343 said:


> Keep 'em sharp.



Would help if some one posted a picture of sharp spurs so newbie folks would get an idea of what they should look like when sharpened properly. They should not be sharpened to a needle point but rather sharp back edge and kind of a dull point. As for getting comfortable, practice, practice, practice. 
Be careful.


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## luvthetrobag (Jul 1, 2007)

A good boot with a steel sole helps save your arches. I think experience is what its going to take for you to gain confidence. Dont rush it. Whenever you make a cut you should always always always be tied in twice. If your spikes kick out just before you get your bar buried for your cut you may cut your line in the confusion. Before you even raise your saw to cut make sure your spikes are well planted and you are positioned so when your cutting your spikes wont kick out.


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## hornett22 (Jul 1, 2007)

*i agree ...........*



luvthetrobag said:


> A good boot with a steel sole helps save your arches. I think experience is what its going to take for you to gain confidence. Dont rush it. Whenever you make a cut you should always always always be tied in twice. If your spikes kick out just before you get your bar buried for your cut you may cut your line in the confusion. Before you even raise your saw to cut make sure your spikes are well planted and you are positioned so when your cutting your spikes wont kick out.



boots make a big difference.


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## BostonBull (Jul 1, 2007)

hornett22 said:


> boots make a big difference.



+1!!!

Wesco's all the way!


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## 03treegrunt11 (Jul 3, 2007)

luvthetrobag said:


> A good boot with a steel sole helps save your arches. I think experience is what its going to take for you to gain confidence. Dont rush it. Whenever you make a cut you should always always always be tied in twice. If your spikes kick out just before you get your bar buried for your cut you may cut your line in the confusion. Before you even raise your saw to cut make sure your spikes are well planted and you are positioned so when your cutting your spikes wont kick out.



GOOD advice!! I agree!! I ALWAYS tie in twice when chunking down the log. I used to get a lot of **** from the old salts, "Whatcha got there....oh a sissy strap!".....I would just laugh....sissy or not....I still got the job done.


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## luvthetrobag (Jul 3, 2007)

03treegrunt11 said:


> GOOD advice!! I agree!! I ALWAYS tie in twice when chunking down the log. I used to get a lot of **** from the old salts, "Whatcha got there....oh a sissy strap!".....I would just laugh....sissy or not....I still got the job done.[/QU
> I actually learned from a guy who told me stories about laynards being refered to less than macho, crawling up the tree digging your nails in like a squirrel . And when you got to that first big crotch having to throw your rope through it with one hand. Then one day an old climber came up and said man your killing yourself be smart use a strap i do and im just as good as the rest of them and oh yeah try this out its called a throwline get your self a rope up there and from then on he tried to do things the right way rather than the stupid way. Cant imagine those days but respect the guys that made it through it and are alive. I learned fom a guy like that. He was trained by the old old school and helped evolve the methods of climbing. He was actually one of the first guys to use a block in my area as well as adopt safety standards like tying in twice, setting up ropes before climbing ect. Guy like that made my job a lot easier. So hats off to you old timers who thought with your head and not just your balls because you knew you had both.


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## 03treegrunt11 (Jul 3, 2007)

Don't get me wrong....the old salts were smart....they just liked to bust cahonies......

When I was green as green can be....I was watching the climber getting ready to climb a decent size sycamore.....first limb was maybe about 30-40 feet. I asked him how he was going to get up there......he told me to go out to the truck and get the rope gun from the forman. I said, "Rope gun?!"....he said, "Yeah, how you think I'm going to get my rope up there?".....I scurried to the truck and asked the foreman where the rope gun was.....it was a LOOOOOOOOOOONG time before I lived that one down.....


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## waldini (Jul 4, 2007)

sharp and have a good rock on them before cutting if it aint right set them again


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## bclure (Jul 11, 2007)

*Pole vs. tree spikes.*

I would like to hear from you experienced guys on this. I was told in a class that pole spikes were a much better choice. That the shorter gaff would allow your foot to be a little closer to the tree and a LOT more stable. He said that especially here in the east, the bark on the trees is thin enough so that pole spikes get more than enough of a bite. ???

Brendan


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## Tree Slayer (Jul 11, 2007)

bclure said:


> I would like to hear from you experienced guys on this. I was told in a class that pole spikes were a much better choice. That the shorter gaff would allow your foot to be a little closer to the tree and a LOT more stable. He said that especially here in the east, the bark on the trees is thin enough so that pole spikes get more than enough of a bite. ???
> 
> Brendan



What class was that? Pole spikes are too short, They won't get into the wood on thick barked trees. The gaff on a tree spike is about an inch longer than what pole spike has. Who ever told you that is wrong.


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## changetires (Jul 11, 2007)

I tried the pole spikes on a yellow pine here in south alabama. About 15 feet up I came back down and started looking for the hammer and punch to get the tree spikes back on. They did bury real good and the foot was real close to the tree for stability but they didnt bite into the meat of the tree far enough and were gaffing out. the pole spikes did work alot better on some of the oaks we have down here. JMHO.


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## beowulf343 (Jul 11, 2007)

bclure said:


> I would like to hear from you experienced guys on this. I was told in a class that pole spikes were a much better choice. That the shorter gaff would allow your foot to be a little closer to the tree and a LOT more stable. He said that especially here in the east, the bark on the trees is thin enough so that pole spikes get more than enough of a bite. ???



Really? I don't know-sometimes i wish my gaffs were a little longer when i'm going up a locust or cottonwood. About the only time i'll pull out the pole gaffs is if i'm climbing something really soft and don't want my weight sinking the whole tree gaff into the tree or frozen beech.


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## BLACKeR (Jul 11, 2007)

ive climbed on pole spikes on some maples, cherrys, and other very thin barked hard woods. ive never had trouble gaffing out. on a tree thats fairly hard with thin bark, you dont sink in much. you dont really need 2.75 in of gaff. but the pole spikes are junk for everything else, not really a needed item IMO.


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## bclure (Jul 15, 2007)

*Great to hear...*

I have tree spikes and worried that I should buy some pole spikes. I will not bother now. Thank you.

Brendan


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## Thillmaine (Jul 19, 2007)

*Pole or Tree spikes*

I have both tree and pole spikes. I never tried the pole spikes, and when I tried the tree (on a red oak) it seemed like it was impossible to stomp them in. My feet were at least 2-3 inches off the trunk. I saw guys at work using what appeared to be pole spikes for hardwoods, much shorter and it almost seemed as you can use the inside of your soles to grip the tree one your spikes are set... Correct? or are they just filed down tree spikes..?


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## Magnum783 (Jul 19, 2007)

I am sure some will not approve of this but I tie in twice once with a wire core the second with a rope lanyard in a X pater across the tree (meaning if my adjuster is on the left I take the rope from the left side a go to the right side of the tree and go around that way back to my right side making a X infront of me. ) That way if my spur does kick out I am not going anywhere. Also when I am tied in twice like that I take on spur out of the tree and push back on the tree with my knee that way I am touching twice making more stability and can still use two hands on the saw or pushing the round which ever it may be. Just my method, time and good boots are the best two pieces of advice you will hear.
Jared


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## BostonBull (Jul 20, 2007)

Thillmaine said:


> I have both tree and pole spikes. I never tried the pole spikes, and when I tried the tree (on a red oak) it seemed like it was impossible to stomp them in. My feet were at least 2-3 inches off the trunk. I saw guys at work using what appeared to be pole spikes for hardwoods, much shorter and it almost seemed as you can use the inside of your soles to grip the tree one your spikes are set... Correct? or are they just filed down tree spikes..?



You need to remember that only 1/8"-1/4" of the gaff is what holds you in the wood.
Try to get out with some experinced climbers. I think you said your with Hartney right? If you work in Needham ask Chuck for some advce hes great!


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## jrparbor04 (Jul 20, 2007)

i have both sets of gaffs,,,i usually use my pole gaffs with the exception of cottonwood and locust and other thick bark trees,,,i am more comfy with pole gaffs the majority of the time


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## ropensaddle (Jul 20, 2007)

Time, Time & more time then you will get the 
comfort level: the most comfortable is hire it
done but since it is my business I hate to insure
the job with another climber as not all climbers are equal.


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