# Using a Pole Saw In The Tree?



## UrbanLogger (Jan 20, 2009)

I work for a reputable tree service in S.E. Wisconsin, and quite a number of my coworkers like to use a pole saw while they are climbing (for pruning). I can’t stand it – the owner even harps on me for not using them. They (my coworkers) are always making horrible cuts, leaving stubs, or causing tears when the branches fall, plus they have no control over the descent of the cut piece. They argue that a tree service can’t be productive, or profitable with out them - that there IS NO WAY to be efficent with out using a pole saw. I prefer to climb/limb walk to make my cuts (which are 99.9% better than their pole saw cuts), and I seem to do so in no more time than they take to use a pole saw. What’s your opinion?

I know that there will always be that one cut you just can’t get to, that you need a pole saw for, but to use one for 75% of your cuts…that’s just lazy, poor quality IMO. I know a few guys from other tree services that aren’t allowed to use pole saws in the tree unless they NEED one.


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## tomtrees58 (Jan 20, 2009)

that's part of the biz wen your 100+ feet up over power lines you will love them to tom treesopcorn:


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## treeseer (Jan 20, 2009)

Depends on the tree. I like climbing and using a handsaw but I also like reaching with a pole. Do your crewmates use a pole pruner too?

see attached from June ArbNews for 1 view; waiting on pdf


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## UrbanLogger (Jan 20, 2009)

They don't use pole pruners that often. 
What they usually do is use a 28' extension ladder to access the canopy, use their pole saw to advance their climbing line into the tree (as often as needed to reach the desired tie in point) then hang in the center of the area they are pruning, and proceed to use their pole saw to make all of their cuts outside of an arms reach away, then move on to the next area. In the case of multiple climbers in a tree, if I am climbing with one of then I can cover the same amount of ground in the same time, as it takes them to use a pole saw. One half of the tree has nice professional cuts, and the other looks like the homeowner was up their on a ladder hacking away. Some of then might as well not even take a hand saw with them, that’s how much they rely on a pole saw.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jan 20, 2009)

Sounds like your style and level of professionalism does not coincide with your employers. If he does not mind a bunch of stubs and tears then you need to find a different place to work.

Who do you work for?


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## treeseer (Jan 20, 2009)

UrbanLogger said:


> They don't use pole pruners that often.
> What they usually do is use a 28' extension ladder to access the canopy, use their pole saw to advance their climbing line into the tree (as often as needed to reach the desired tie in point) then hang in the center of the area they are pruning, and proceed to use their pole saw to make all of their cuts outside of an arms reach away, then move on to the next area. In the case of multiple climbers in a tree, if I am climbing with one of then I can cover the same amount of ground in the same time, as it takes them to use a pole saw. One half of the tree has nice professional cuts, and the other looks like the homeowner was up their on a ladder hacking away. Some of then might as well not even take a hand saw with them, that’s how much they rely on a pole saw.


Well that sounds like my default oldschool access style, but imo there's no excuse not to swing around and limbwalk and get good upclose access if you can, and use a pole when you can't.

Best reason to use poles is to reach smaller cuts in the right place instead of taking too much off. Best reason not to is to learn to climb well, without the pole as a crutch.

It depends on the tree--getting stuck in one way of pruning with one tool makes no sense. Here's the pdf fwiw. Keeping the scabbard clipped to the saddle works nice.


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## JeffL (Jan 20, 2009)

Yeah, thats going a bit far. I'll use it up at the tops where there isnt anything sizeable to walk on or stand on. Or out on the ends of limbs that I dont trust will support my weight. We've all caught hell for poor cuts, be it handsaw, polesaw, chainsaw, mostly due to inexperience mostly in my personal case, but now every cut is a conscious effort, has been for awhile.

Another name I've heard them called is "chicken sticks", for the guys afraid to do some limb walking. 

:greenchainsaw:


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## tree MDS (Jan 20, 2009)

You still need a pole - ya just gotta know how too use it. Especially in pruning big trees.


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## Tree Machine (Jan 20, 2009)

UrbanLogger said:


> I work for a reputable tree service in S.E. Wisconsin, and quite a number of my coworkers like to use a pole saw while they are climbing (for pruning). I can’t stand it – the owner even harps on me for not using them. They (my coworkers) are always making horrible cuts, leaving stubs, or causing tears when the branches fall, plus they have no control over the descent of the cut piece. They argue that a tree service can’t be productive, or profitable with out them - that there IS NO WAY to be efficent with out using a pole saw. I prefer to climb/limb walk to make my cuts (which are 99.9% better than their pole saw cuts), and I seem to do so in no more time than they take to use a pole saw. What’s your opinion?


I'm definitely with you for all the reasons listed, including that the motions needed to use a pole saw are quick to fatigue you. In the time it takes to make a cut with a pole saw, a decent climber can usually get to the point and be in better position to get to other nearby cuts with the hand saw. Face it, we use pole tools to reach places we can't, or don't want to go. The longer the extension, the more difficult the cut, point blank.

I like using the pole saw while on the ground to cut off dead stubs on pines or hemlocks, where I have to weigh the time spent gearing up for the climb against just grabbing the pole saw. Almost always, though I feel I could have done it faster climbing, and I can't pole saw higher than the limited reach of the saw. On live limbs, it is _so easy and common_ to get an underside peel. Doing an underside kerf or notch is difficult at best, usually futile. I do try to use the pole saw wherever I think it will make life easier, but it's so easy to create substandard cuts. I have a Hayate, a Hyuachi, both exceptional pole saws, but the more I use them, the less I want to use them. They DO have their place, and I do rely on them but I have to say, that place is not up in the tree.

Have you tried making cuts on branches less than two inches in diameter that are not right up against the trunk? Like stuff out over power lines? Or stuff pointing directly away from you or to a 30 degree arc either side of that? You can't cut stuff that moves when you try to saw it. A pole saw's use is very limiting. If you can't climb out to that stuff, the only other alternative is a pole pruner, and climb to everything else bigger. A powerful bull lopper (2" jaw capacity) will do tips, smaller deadwood, and reset ropes with ease. I _want_ the pole saw to be that tool of desire, I really want it to work, but it tends to make work more work than it needs to be and unless you're directly 90 degrees to the desired optimum cut angle, you will leave weird angled stubs every time. That's not an opinion. Some climbers just don't care. We don't live in an ideal world.

The best you can do is take a stand and do your best work. Don't lower your standards to the low standards of a company or you may fall into the 'good enough' mindset where it's about a paycheck, not caring for trees. That'll assure you weak paychecks and dissatisfied customers. Bright future, mmmmm. Lead by good example and prove yourself through productivity and quality.

You're destined to be your own boss. Keep you standards high, don't pick up bad work habits from the don'tgivvafuchs. Quality-driven climbers may be the minority, we need you.


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## jomoco (Jan 20, 2009)

treeseer said:


> Well that sounds like my default oldschool access style, but imo there's no excuse not to swing around and limbwalk and get good upclose access if you can, and use a pole when you can't.
> 
> Best reason to use poles is to reach smaller cuts in the right place instead of taking too much off. Best reason not to is to learn to climb well, without the pole as a crutch.
> 
> It depends on the tree--getting stuck in one way of pruning with one tool makes no sense. Here's the pdf fwiw. Keeping the scabbard clipped to the saddle works nice.



+1 Treeseer

I took tremendous pride in never needing or using a friggin polesaw for a decade before I climbed down off my high horse and admitted that certain species and situations call for them.

And I do know one particular climbing cert arb that does ultra fine class 1 work with them almost exclusively for big buck high end clients in La Jolla.

This guy changes his pole saw blade twice a day!

Has arms like arnie and drives a flawless black mercedes 500 sedan to give his estimates.

I have a complete set of polesaw, pruner and extensions rusting in my truck, but I do use them once in a blue moon. I like getting righ on top of my work with a razor sharp handsaw to this very day.

jomoco


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## treeseer (Jan 20, 2009)

Good old Racine--St. Cat's HS was a great place to be in the mid-60's; those nuns worked our minds and it was good!



Tree Machine said:


> motions needed to use a pole saw are quick to fatigue you.


TM I can't believe you're saying this, knowing your strength. I'll chalk your fatigue up to poor ergonomics and lack of using those muscle groups.  The rest of your post ain't bad but I think the tree'd rather try to seal a 4 2" rips than one 5" collar cut.

Uh oh now Murph is gonna launch; I'm runnin for cover....


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## ATH (Jan 20, 2009)

treeseer said:


> ......I think the tree'd rather try to seal a 4 2" rips than one 5" collar cut.....


let's just assume the 2" diameter branches only tear one inch - so that makes 4 cuts at 2"x3" (6sq inches each) for a total of 24 square inches of exposed wood. A 5" circle has 19.6 square inches of exposed wood -- and that says nothing for the physiology of how a tree heals.

I'm not saying I don't use a pole saw in the tree, but I try hard not to bring it up. I also recognize that once it is up there, I get lazy and start using it on branches I'd easily climb out to if the pole was on the ground...

My bottom line: it has its place in the tree, but if I had to put a number on it, I'd say less than 10% of all cuts in any given week of climbing.

I get the most use out of my pole saw on the ground for trees "too small" to climb (as in it is not worth getting geared up, etc... to cut 5 branches), but too big to reach from the ground. MUCH better control of the saw and the quality of cut when I can start it at one point, move to the other side to finish it, then make a final cut to remove the stub. It still leaves more tears than I'd like.. Maybe 1 in 15 of the cuts made have some minor tears while 1 in 50 has what I call an ugly tear. I have not had an "unacceptable" tear from the pole saw yet - maybe that is because I am more cautious and hesitant to make those boarderline cuts with the pole.


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## PurdueJoe (Jan 20, 2009)

I've worked for bosses on both sides of this debate. The side against said that if you need a pole saw instead of climbing to cut it then its so small its not worth cutting. The side for said that all that climbing was a waste of time when you can stay in one spot and make all the same cuts. Granted the boss who hated pole saws was in his 30's and the other was in his 50's so I have a feeling I will like them a lot more once I gain some years too.


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## Tree Machine (Jan 20, 2009)

treeseer said:


> those nuns worked our minds and it was good!
> 
> TM I can't believe you're saying this, knowing your strength. I'll chalk your fatigue up to poor ergonomics and lack of using those muscle groups.



Nuns working your minds? I'd like to see a picture of that!


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## Tree Machine (Jan 20, 2009)

Couldn't resist.


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## TreeTopKid (Jan 20, 2009)

JeffL said:


> Yeah, thats going a bit far. I'll use it up at the tops where there isnt anything sizeable to walk on or stand on. Or out on the ends of limbs that I dont trust will support my weight. We've all caught hell for poor cuts, be it handsaw, polesaw, chainsaw, mostly due to inexperience mostly in my personal case, but now every cut is a conscious effort, has been for awhile.
> 
> Another name I've heard them called is "chicken sticks", for the guys afraid to do some limb walking.
> 
> :greenchainsaw:



Good name for my colleagues pole saw!


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## TreeTopKid (Jan 20, 2009)

Tree Machine said:


> Nuns working your minds? I'd like to see a picture of that!



I love working for nuns! Where was this taken? Reminds of Poor Clares.


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## jomoco (Jan 20, 2009)

TreeTopKid said:


> Good name for my colleagues pole saw!



Cinched nylon loops of varying sizes can make for awful handy stirrups to place your foot into, to get that impossible branch.

Dual TIP's/redirects are way cool too, to access the seemingly impossible.

jomoco


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## jomoco (Jan 20, 2009)

Love those climbing shoes!

jomoco


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## Tree Machine (Jan 20, 2009)

The story on that picture resides in a thread here at Arboristsite, from like 5 years ago. It was a food thread. Search keyword 'curry' 'God' or 'holy crap!"

Now back to pole saws.


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## jomoco (Jan 20, 2009)

Tree Machine said:


> The story on that picture resides in a thread here at Arboristsite, from like 5 years ago. It was a food thread. Search keyword 'curry' 'God' or 'holy crap!"
> 
> Now back to pole saws.



Good christian muscle doing the good work of feeding the modest among us I gather/hope?

jomoco


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## (WLL) (Jan 20, 2009)

i have only herd(sp) of poles being called sissy sticks and lanyards being called chicken straps from *hacks*, imo they are a valuable tools. every tree care company should have them.


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## TreeTopKid (Jan 20, 2009)

jomoco said:


> Cinched nylon loops of varying sizes can make for awful handy stirrups to place your foot into, to get that impossible branch.
> 
> Dual TIP's/redirects are way cool too, to access the seemingly impossible.
> 
> jomoco



I know I've been using loop runners for just that Jomoco! They are so light too, I always carry half a dozen of various sizes. I occasionally use a pole saw but I prefer to climb every time if you keep your weight on your saddle you can really get out on the skinny stuff. I also rescue cats and very often they are right at the tips, and the owners usually don't like retrieval with a pole saw! So I go a bouncing!


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## tree md (Jan 20, 2009)

I never used a pole pruner period until about 3 or 4 years ago. I used it in the tree for a little while but eventually went back to just climbing on out there with a handsaw or power saw and making my cut. Couldn't make clean cuts on the hard angles and I eventually came to the conclusion that in most cases it causes you to exert more energy than it would if you just climbed out there. Plus they are no fun to pay to fix if one hits the ground. I do use one a lot to trim limbs away from roofs or cut lower limbs that I can reach from the ground. I also use it to clear lower limbs to clear a path for me to enter the tree sometimes. They have their place and save a lot of time but are only good for limited applications IMO.


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## (WLL) (Jan 20, 2009)

TreeTopKid said:


> I know I've been using loop runners for just that Jomoco! They are so light too, I always carry half a dozen of various sizes. I occasionally use a pole saw but I prefer to climb every time if you keep your weight on your saddle you can really get out on the skinny stuff. I also rescue cats and very often they are right at the tips, and the owners usually don't like retrieval with a pole saw! So I go a bouncing!


you can also use the tail of your rope when the loops wont fit or ya didnt bring em up. i need a good foot more offtin when cabling than pruning.


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## TreeTopKid (Jan 20, 2009)

(WLL) said:


> you can also use the tail of your rope when the loops wont fit or ya didnt bring em up. i need a good foot more offtin when cabling than pruning.



Yeah of course wrestlin' with the drill can be a right pain in the wrong tree.


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## tree md (Jan 20, 2009)

jomoco said:


> Cinched nylon loops of varying sizes can make for awful handy stirrups to place your foot into, to get that impossible branch.
> 
> Dual TIP's/redirects are way cool too, to access the seemingly impossible.
> 
> jomoco



I never enter a tree without 2 loops on my saddle anymore. Handier than a pocket on a shirt.


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## jomoco (Jan 21, 2009)

TreeTopKid said:


> Yeah of course wrestlin' with the drill can be a right pain in the wrong tree.



Try it with a 3 foot drill bit!

No push, no go amigo!

jomoco


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## (WLL) (Jan 21, 2009)

i dont take any extra tools when im climbing. if i need something ill call down. i like adj. loopies. climbs that call fer roping/ limb removal ill have one of each on the belt


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## (WLL) (Jan 21, 2009)

jomoco said:


> Try it with a 3 foot drill bit!
> 
> No push, no go amigo!
> 
> jomoco


push-pull-push-pull/ over and over and over again


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## jomoco (Jan 21, 2009)

(WLL) said:


> push-pull-push-pull/ over and over and over again



Kinda like an arboreal doctor doolittle with no proper footing to either push me or pull me!

jomoco


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## (WLL) (Jan 21, 2009)

jomoco said:


> Kinda like an arboreal doctor doolittle with no proper footing to either push me or pull me!
> 
> jomoco


rope placement is key


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## jomoco (Jan 21, 2009)

(WLL) said:


> rope placement is key



Do you mean rope in the singular or ropes?

Lanyard/rope combo is fine for short bits, but sometimes with long bits dual tip's or redirects are essential to comfort rather than exhaustion.

jomoco


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## (WLL) (Jan 21, 2009)

jomoco said:


> Do you mean rope in the singular or ropes?
> 
> Lanyard/rope combo is fine for short bits, but sometimes with long bits dual tip's or redirects are essential to comfort rather than exhaustion.
> 
> jomoco


 :agree2:


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## tree MDS (Jan 21, 2009)

Using a polesaw in a tree properly is an art in my opinion. I see it as a nessisary evil. Its definately an anoying tool at times. I'm talking about fine pruning big trees, like the red oaks we get alot here. I started climbing doing what was then called a "class 4" (or canopy reduction by one third) down in FL - lots of climbing to the ends and rope walking/weaving through the canopy, hand saw/old school 020. We didnt use a pole down south too much, other than to pull hangers. My point is that I can climb out to the ends of a branch as well as the next guy or better, everyone acts like they are a hero for getting out to the ends of a branch these days - I was doing it as my job every day from the time I started climbing pretty much. I still like to have a polesaw hanging around. That said it took years of #####ing and swearing to get really good with one. As long as you care about your cuts and are strong enough you can do a good job with one. The blades I use now are soo much better than those old Seymour Smith "snap cut" things we had for years! Anyone remember those??


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## Tree Machine (Jan 21, 2009)

tree MDS said:


> The blades I use now are soo much better than those old Seymour Smith "snap cut" things we had for years! Anyone remember those??


Ick! Just like what you might find on a camping saw at WalMart.

I agree with MDS. Getting out to the tips is what we do, not to say that everyone can do it, but using judicious redirects you should be able to get to any place in the tree, short of it being too small where you risk having it snap of under your own weight. I think developing a dependence on using the pole saw will prevent you from developing the skills that will allow you to go just about anywhere in the crown. Going all places in the crown (not necessarily _going_, but having the ability to go) should be a baseline bread-and-butter skill for any seasoned climbing arborist.

Getting out there into no-mans land isn't so much about overcoming difficulty, or possessing brute strength and unlimited undurance; its more about utilizing your gear properly and getting past the barriers in your head.

Going to the hardest places should be done with the greatest ease possible. Carrying a pole saw gives you an excuse not to, and that's self-limiting. This is just an opinion, not necessarily some widely held truth or irrefutable fact....
(that I'm aware of)


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## chevytaHOE5674 (Jan 21, 2009)

IMO like any tool they have their time/place/use. Knowing when to use one and when to get it with a hand saw is the key. 

There are many times that a few quick snips or cuts with a pole saw have saved me lots of time. 

Practice up with a pole saw and you can make pretty darn proper cuts.


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## tree MDS (Jan 21, 2009)

The first "razor blades" I saw were on handsaws (ARS I wanna say), it seems like it took a while for them to make it on a pole head.

The most useless blade IMHO is that giant Fanno POS, definately made for hacking. I'm likeing thr Marvin 330's lately, very sharp and articulate little blade, I almost think they do a better job pruning when they are a tiny bit dulled up sinse the hook is a little agressive when new.


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## TreeTopKid (Jan 21, 2009)

jomoco said:


> Try it with a 3 foot drill bit!
> 
> No push, no go amigo!
> 
> jomoco



Thats EXACTLY what I was talking about LOL.


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## TreeTopKid (Jan 21, 2009)

(WLL) said:


> i dont take any extra tools when im climbing. if i need something ill call down. i like adj. loopies. climbs that call fer roping/ limb removal ill have one of each on the belt



Me either, but those loop runners are so light i always take a few. No tape measures, hand saws, and 20 'spare' karibiners though LOL


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## scott t (Jan 23, 2009)

UrbanLogger said:


> They don't use pole pruners that often.
> What they usually do is use a 28' extension ladder to access the canopy, use their pole saw to advance their climbing line into the tree (as often as needed to reach the desired tie in point) then hang in the center of the area they are pruning, and proceed to use their pole saw to make all of their cuts outside of an arms reach away, then move on to the next area. In the case of multiple climbers in a tree, if I am climbing with one of then I can cover the same amount of ground in the same time, as it takes them to use a pole saw. One half of the tree has nice professional cuts, and the other looks like the homeowner was up their on a ladder hacking away. Some of then might as well not even take a hand saw with them, that’s how much they rely on a pole saw.



Im sorry but we are climber and i do not see the point of a ladder. Can some one please explain why some one would use a ladder if you can climb?


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## chevytaHOE5674 (Jan 23, 2009)

scott tinsley said:


> Im sorry but we are climber and i do not see the point of a ladder. Can some one please explain why some one would use a ladder if you can climb?



People use ladders to clear the first 20-30 feet faster. Most can climb a ladder faster than a rope. So it makes entrance into the tree quicker and easier.

Edit: For reference I don't do this. But I've seen it done many times.


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## scott t (Jan 23, 2009)

oh, ok i see but if its a removal why not just use your spikes. useing a ladder (imo) is not very safe. but i dont use them so im not judging anyone for useing them.more power to you if you can.


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## jomoco (Jan 23, 2009)

scott tinsley said:


> Im sorry but we are climber and i do not see the point of a ladder. Can some one please explain why some one would use a ladder if you can climb?



Topiary work like hedges, steep hillside footing, fine ornamental work and such. Ladders have their place just like polesaws do, every pro commercial company has them.

jomoco


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## Tree Machine (Jan 23, 2009)

> Im sorry but we are climber and i do not see the point of a ladder. Can some one please explain why some one would use a ladder if you can climb?





jomoco said:


> Topiary work like hedges, steep hillside footing, fine ornamental work and such. Ladders have their place just like polesaws do, every pro commercial company has them.
> 
> jomoco



Palms. Blocking down monster trunks when you only get two cuts before the tank needs a refill and you're using really big, really heavy long-bar saws.


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## TreeTopKid (Jan 23, 2009)

I might be using a pole saw this afternoon. My dumb azz just dropped a three week old ms192 from 80ft of a 90ft pine. I clipped it to an 'imaginary' D ring on my saddle:monkey:


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## tree MDS (Jan 23, 2009)

*I dont use one now but have.*

We used to have a 40 foot fiberglass one down south - mostly for palms like TM said. We also used to have the ground guys set it up on big trees sometimes, three pole sections and you walk off it at over 40' tied in nicely! Not too shabby really.


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## scott t (Jan 24, 2009)

Here you really have no use for them we have big trees but you dont need anything bigger than a 36'' bar. like i said if you use them great i just don't know that many people use them.i see the reasoning behind them now thanks.


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## scott t (Jan 24, 2009)

TreeTopKid said:


> I might be using a pole saw this afternoon. My dumb azz just dropped a three week old ms192 from 80ft of a 90ft pine. I clipped it to an 'imaginary' D ring on my saddle:monkey:



you have to watch that. i do it time to time. did you break it? last one i did was my 066 mag


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## treeseer (Jan 24, 2009)

scott tinsley said:


> you dont need anything bigger than a 36'' bar. :


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## scott t (Jan 25, 2009)

Tree Machine said:


> Palms. Blocking down monster trunks when you only get two cuts before the tank needs a refill and you're using really big, really heavy long-bar saws.



Was talking bout blocking off a ladder dont need them here.TREESEER


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## JeffL (Jan 25, 2009)

Who else spends more time swearing at the pole saw and pulling it through crotches than they do actually using it?


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## scott t (Jan 25, 2009)

I hear yea i only use them for thinning its alot faster to just climb out to get what you need.


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## Mikecutstrees (Feb 28, 2009)

question... for those of you who don't use a polesaw in the tree how do you advance your climbing line normally? Like in a tree without alot of branches to climb on, like an elm or oak? ... Mike


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## scott t (Mar 1, 2009)

I use both ends of my rope while tied in with one end i make a monkeys fist and throw it to the next spot i love my monkey fist:biggrinbounce2:


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## treeseer (Mar 1, 2009)

scott t said:


> i love my monkey fist:biggrinbounce2:


i do too, but when branches are thick above me i love the pole to push the rope to the next tie in spot. i'm a fairly good tosser but tossing is not always possible or practical.


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## Raymond (Mar 1, 2009)

Not to mention the damn thing weighs twice as much in the tree. I got my first STIHL polesaw when they very first came out. My first thought was...cool I can sit back in he middle of the tree and work...WRONG!

I ask for it MAYBE once a month if that, when the situation is right.

:computer:Can I tell ya the story of my first polesaw?
I had a bid for trimming back, just the house sides of a large lake home. Just guessing it was like 30-40 trees that only needed a few pieces cut off each one.

I'm looking at damn near a two day job and bid it for that too. They gave me the go-ahead on the spot.

The morning of the job I dropped by my toy store and bought one. Headed to the job, got on the roof...damn near flat at that, and was done in like 3 or 4 hours.

:rockn: Fat steaks on the grill that night buddy, I wouldn't bull#### ya.


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## scott t (Mar 1, 2009)

I have used a gas powered pole saw twice i like the Jamison add a pole. the gas poles are to heavy and you will use alot more energy with one. i know guys that wont climb without one just seems like to much work for what its worth know what i mean.


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## Rickytree (Mar 1, 2009)

Mikecutstrees said:


> question... for those of you who don't use a polesaw in the tree how do you advance your climbing line normally? Like in a tree without alot of branches to climb on, like an elm or oak? ... Mike



Mike if I have to climb a medium size tree for trimming I use a ladder to get past the trunk wood then a two stick pruner(8 foot poles) That's 16 feet plus the head and run a loop knot and drop it over the desired branch and pull it down with the hook on the pruner. Large tree's I use the big shot and mars bars. Pole saws are not for use in a tree too big and awkward. I use the pole saw mainly for grabbing lower branches and getting the crew started working.


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## Raymond (Mar 1, 2009)

Rickytree said:


> Mike if I have to climb a medium size tree for trimming I use a ladder to get past the trunk wood then a two stick pruner(8 foot poles) That's 16 feet plus the head and run a loop knot and drop it over the desired branch and pull it down with the hook on the pruner. Large tree's I use the big shot and mars bars. Pole saws are not for use in a tree too big and awkward. I use the pole saw mainly for grabbing lower branches and getting the crew started working.



Yeah :agree2: and to get loosened and warmed up.


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## TreeTopKid (Mar 1, 2009)

Rickytree said:


> Mike if I have to climb a medium size tree for trimming I use a ladder to get past the trunk wood then a two stick pruner(8 foot poles) That's 16 feet plus the head and run a loop knot and drop it over the desired branch and pull it down with the hook on the pruner. Large tree's I use the big shot and mars bars. Pole saws are not for use in a tree too big and awkward. I use the pole saw mainly for grabbing lower branches and getting the crew started working.



What about older trees with masses of living brittle wood at the ends?


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## Tree Machine (Mar 1, 2009)

kid said:


> What about older trees with masses of living brittle wood at the ends?


Pole pruner, without a doubt. *Tips* are about impossible with a polesaw due to the small diameter and the fact that they move as you move the polesaw. Those areas are just too small to reach climbing and using a handsaw, and tend to be numerous over a general area. A pole pruner (once again, a bull lopper, not the cheezyazz single-action toy pruners) is an excellent option to be in in one spot within the tree and be able to prune a 15-20 foot radius from where you stand with a great deal of accuracy, swiftness, control and quality of cut.

I do a lot of work over wires where the material needs to be controlled, as well as cut. The pole _pruner_ offers a lot of options, beyond just the cut itself.

But I digress. This thread isn't about pole pruners.


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## Rickytree (Mar 1, 2009)

TreetopKid that usually doesn't happen often but when it does usually I can reach it by hand or use the pruner to snap it out. If I can't reach it by hand I bring the branch back to where I can. Using the polesaw how can you geta proper cut at the end of the branch. It's impossible!


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## Rickytree (Mar 1, 2009)

Hey Tree Machine! I agree wit you. Hey l like the pic with the nuns. Give me the number of the one holdin the fur bag. Nice teeth, Question are they her's? Well I gota go Hell's calling me!


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## TreeTopKid (Mar 1, 2009)

Tree Machine said:


> I.
> 
> But I digress. This thread isn't about pole pruners.



Actually TM I was referring not to the tips but dead wood etc located in the outer regions of these brittle limbs we've got 4500 Live Oaks of a similar age and many of them are in this condition. I was with the original topic and actually asking Ricky whether he thought a pole saw is essential for this type of application. I assumed that pole pruner in his post meant a pole saw, but neglected to mention it as I thought it was a little slip of the tongue.


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## TreeTopKid (Mar 1, 2009)

Rickytree said:


> TreetopKid that usually doesn't happen often but when it does usually I can reach it by hand or use the pruner to snap it out. If I can't reach it by hand I bring the branch back to where I can. Using the polesaw how can you geta proper cut at the end of the branch. It's impossible!



I agree, but sometimes depending on the condition of the branch overall I will prune further back with the pole saw. Generally I take the maximum acceptable risk with a chainsaw as you can obviously be more accurate. In a large tree that is healthy and generating masses of annual growth the amount that can be removed with a pole pruner is insufficient to have a lasting effect. On the other hand if it is not in good enough condition to climb a pole pruner can be useful some times but you have to ask yourself about the viability of the limb with regards to safety, and you may be better pruning further back with a chainsaw or pole saw.


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