# Husqvarna 55 Rancher no spark, even after new coil



## johnsoninc86 (May 17, 2012)

I had a Husky 55 Rancher given to me. Its not getting any spark currently. I've tested the kill switch, which tested good. I disconnected the kill switch wire coming from the coil, and still no spark, so that led me to believe that my coil is bad. I ordered a new coil, installed it, air gapped it with a business card, and I get the same result. I started testing continuity to different points on the coil with it mounted on the saw, and was getting what seemed to be wierd readings. With the kill switch wire disconnected from the coil, I was still getting continuity to ground on the kill switch tab coming off the coil, which essentially means the brand new coil was grounding out without the kill switch even hooked up. Is this the sign of a bad coil (even though its brand new)? If the ignition switch tests good, and I'm still not getting spark, the only other thing to go bad would be the coil, correct?

Thanks for all the help guys, and this site seems awesome, tons of really knowledgeable people on here!


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## BroncoRN (May 18, 2012)

Flywheel could be bad, spark plug could be bad, plug wire could be bad, plug wire end could be bad....

Welcome to the site!


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## Rokon (May 18, 2012)

Welcome to the site!

Sounds like you are having a ground problem. 

More help on the subject will be arriving soon.


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## johnsoninc86 (May 18, 2012)

BroncoRN said:


> Flywheel could be bad, spark plug could be bad, plug wire could be bad, plug wire end could be bad....
> 
> Welcome to the site!



Its got a brand new NGK plug in it, so that shouldn't be the issue, the plug wire comes new attached to the coil, so that shouldn't be it either, and I'm getting continuity through the plug wire end. Flywheel might be a possibility I suppose.


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## half_full (May 18, 2012)

I fought what I thought was a carb issue on an older motorcycle. Turned out to be one of the new spark plugs I put in was bad out of the box. 
Can't count on new = good


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## a. palmer jr. (May 18, 2012)

johnsoninc86 said:


> I had a Husky 55 Rancher given to me. Its not getting any spark currently. I've tested the kill switch, which tested good. I disconnected the kill switch wire coming from the coil, and still no spark, so that led me to believe that my coil is bad. I ordered a new coil, installed it, air gapped it with a business card, and I get the same result. I started testing continuity to different points on the coil with it mounted on the saw, and was getting what seemed to be wierd readings. With the kill switch wire disconnected from the coil, I was still getting continuity to ground on the kill switch tab coming off the coil, which essentially means the brand new coil was grounding out without the kill switch even hooked up. Is this the sign of a bad coil (even though its brand new)? If the ignition switch tests good, and I'm still not getting spark, the only other thing to go bad would be the coil, correct?
> 
> Thanks for all the help guys, and this site seems awesome, tons of really knowledgeable people on here!



If your saw has points I would check there first. You said "coil," which goes with points, if it doesn't have points it has a module.
You also mentioned the coil showed continuity to ground, actually the primary side will show continuity to ground if it's hooked into the circuit, you have to use the lowest ohms scale to check the primary and disconnect everything but if this is a module (electronic ignition) it's not good to check with meter, replace module with known good one is the best way to go here. On the secondary side check from ground to end of plug wire using a higher scale, like ohms X10k. Should read around 30k or so.

I looked it up and seems your saw came out with electronic ignition. Just try cleaning around where the module mounts on the saw, re-check the air gap, if still no spark I would try a different module.


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## johnsoninc86 (May 18, 2012)

a. palmer jr. said:


> If your saw has points I would check there first. You said "coil," which goes with points, if it doesn't have points it has a module.
> You also mentioned the coil showed continuity to ground, actually the primary side will show continuity to ground if it's hooked into the circuit, you have to use the lowest ohms scale to check the primary and disconnect everything but if this is a module (electronic ignition) it's not good to check with meter, replace module with known good one is the best way to go here. On the secondary side check from ground to end of plug wire using a higher scale, like ohms X10k. Should read around 30k or so.
> 
> I looked it up and seems your saw came out with electronic ignition. Just try cleaning around where the module mounts on the saw, re-check the air gap, if still no spark I would try a different module.



Yea, its definitely a module then, no points. Sorry for the confusion.

I'm thinking I'm testing something wrong then. I've got two new coils sitting here now, and they both test the same with a multi-meter, even though I may not be testing them right. Surely I wouldn't get two new coils that are bad from the factory. It might be time to try another new plug and clean the flywheel.


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## Fish (May 18, 2012)

Just plug the wire on the coil, hold the side of the plug against the metal of the block and pull the rope, do this inside so you can see the spark.

Also make sure there is no fuel present........


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## a. palmer jr. (May 18, 2012)

johnsoninc86 said:


> Yea, its definitely a module then, no points. Sorry for the confusion.
> 
> I'm thinking I'm testing something wrong then. I've got two new coils sitting here now, and they both test the same with a multi-meter, even though I may not be testing them right. Surely I wouldn't get two new coils that are bad from the factory. It might be time to try another new plug and clean the flywheel.



Put the gap between module and flywheel at around .010 and make sure the mounting surface is clean, that's your ground for the module unless it has another wire to ground it with. It's not a real good test on modules to check for resistance because it has more in the module than just two coils, it has a triggering circuit also and they don't put out too much info on how to test them other than replacement. If it's not the spark plug or the kill switch and the module's grounded then you must have two bad modules...


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## fatboy1941 (May 18, 2012)

*I also have gotten*

I also have gotten bad plugs for both snowmobiles and motorcycles right out of the box. Always double check plugs. Electronic problems can be a pita. Let us know what you find out.


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## Jredsjeep (May 18, 2012)

might be a dumb question but you are grounding the spark plug to metal when you are checking it right?

i to have suffered the bad plug out of the box, well it was actually shortly out of the box. i had 3 sparkplugs go bad at once on my tractor while it warmed up before plowing snow. it drove me nuts where i replaced the ignition system (could have used it anyway) cleaned the carb, shooting wires etc, until finally out of desperation i put the old plugs back in to replace the "new" clean looking plugs. 

she fired right up a purred after that, my head about exploded clear off my shoulders when i realized i could have avoided working outside for 8 or so hrs in the 20's trying to fix the tractor when it was so simple.


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## johnsoninc86 (May 18, 2012)

Jredsjeep said:


> might be a dumb question but you are grounding the spark plug to metal when you are checking it right?
> 
> i to have suffered the bad plug out of the box, well it was actually shortly out of the box. i had 3 sparkplugs go bad at once on my tractor while it warmed up before plowing snow. it drove me nuts where i replaced the ignition system (could have used it anyway) cleaned the carb, shooting wires etc, until finally out of desperation i put the old plugs back in to replace the "new" clean looking plugs.
> 
> she fired right up a purred after that, my head about exploded clear off my shoulders when i realized i could have avoided working outside for 8 or so hrs in the 20's trying to fix the tractor when it was so simple.



Oh yea, I'm definitely grounding the plug when testing it, but I appreciate the tip. I too hate electrical problems, I've chased them all over Jeeps and race quads over the years, I just figured this saw would be easier to figure out than this.


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## a. palmer jr. (May 18, 2012)

johnsoninc86 said:


> Oh yea, I'm definitely grounding the plug when testing it, but I appreciate the tip. I too hate electrical problems, I've chased them all over Jeeps and race quads over the years, I just figured this saw would be easier to figure out than this.



When you get a bad new part it screws up your troubleshooting procedure. It really screws it up when you get two bad new parts in a row, but it happens occasionally.


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## bplust (May 18, 2012)

Is the flywheel spinning free on the crank, as in, is the flywheel key present and good?


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## johnsoninc86 (May 19, 2012)

Yea, the flywheel key should still be good, there's no freeplay in it or anything, and it spins with the crank. 

I'm getting spark now with the newest coil that I put in it. I have to turn the saw over pretty fast in order to get spark, but that might be normal. After getting spark, I checked for fuel, which it wasn't getting either, so I cleaned the carb. I am now getting spark, fuel, and air, but still no combustion whatsoever. I guess the only things left would be timing and compression. I can check the flywheel key tomorrow, but what sort of compression is one of these saws supposed to have? I took off the muffler and looked at the cylinder and piston. The backside of the cylinder looks good, but the piston has some pretty good scoring on the front side of it, towards the exhaust port. It feels like there is compression, but maybe not enough for combustion, not sure, I'll have to get the compression guage out tomorrow and test it.

I'm starting to see why I received this saw for free...


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## Jacob J. (May 19, 2012)

Yeah a freebie saw is usually blown. Pretty much any scoring on a Rancher 55 piston and you'll need to replace it. Those saws are a consumer grade saw
and they have no tolerance for any kind of damage to the piston. So it sounds like you're into it for a new piston and ring next. A chainsaw engine is a crude
example of a modern two-stroke and when they're blown, they can have the "feel" of having compression when they don't.


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## BroncoRN (May 19, 2012)

johnsoninc86 said:


> Yea, the flywheel key should still be good, there's no freeplay in it or anything, and it spins with the crank.
> 
> I'm getting spark now with the newest coil that I put in it. I have to turn the saw over pretty fast in order to get spark, but that might be normal. After getting spark, I checked for fuel, which it wasn't getting either, so I cleaned the carb. I am now getting spark, fuel, and air, but still no combustion whatsoever. I guess the only things left would be timing and compression. I can check the flywheel key tomorrow, but what sort of compression is one of these saws supposed to have? I took off the muffler and looked at the cylinder and piston. The backside of the cylinder looks good, but the piston has some pretty good scoring on the front side of it, towards the exhaust port. It feels like there is compression, but maybe not enough for combustion, not sure, I'll have to get the compression guage out tomorrow and test it.
> 
> I'm starting to see why I received this saw for free...



115-120 is about bottom as far as compression goes


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## Oldtimer (May 19, 2012)

Pull the plug, spray a shot of ether in there, put the plug back in a hurry before it evaporates, and pull it over...if there's any spark at all, it'll fart. Compression won't matter to the ether.

Sand off the inside of the flywheel. Rust never sleeps.


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## a. palmer jr. (May 19, 2012)

johnsoninc86 said:


> Yea, the flywheel key should still be good, there's no freeplay in it or anything, and it spins with the crank.
> 
> I'm getting spark now with the newest coil that I put in it. I have to turn the saw over pretty fast in order to get spark, but that might be normal. After getting spark, I checked for fuel, which it wasn't getting either, so I cleaned the carb. I am now getting spark, fuel, and air, but still no combustion whatsoever. I guess the only things left would be timing and compression. I can check the flywheel key tomorrow, but what sort of compression is one of these saws supposed to have? I took off the muffler and looked at the cylinder and piston. The backside of the cylinder looks good, but the piston has some pretty good scoring on the front side of it, towards the exhaust port. It feels like there is compression, but maybe not enough for combustion, not sure, I'll have to get the compression guage out tomorrow and test it.
> 
> I'm starting to see why I received this saw for free...



I don't think those saws came with a compression release but you can check anyway. If it has one it's on the right side of the cylinder, usually a blue button that you push in when you want to release compression. If your piston is scored pretty bad you may also have a stuck ring. If you do it won't have enough compression to fire. It's still a great bargain for free, pistons are easy to install in those.


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## mathewsdxt75 (Feb 9, 2016)

johnsoninc86 said:


> I had a Husky 55 Rancher given to me. Its not getting any spark currently. I've tested the kill switch, which tested good. I disconnected the kill switch wire coming from the coil, and still no spark, so that led me to believe that my coil is bad. I ordered a new coil, installed it, air gapped it with a business card, and I get the same result. I started testing continuity to different points on the coil with it mounted on the saw, and was getting what seemed to be wierd readings. With the kill switch wire disconnected from the coil, I was still getting continuity to ground on the kill switch tab coming off the coil, which essentially means the brand new coil was grounding out without the kill switch even hooked up. Is this the sign of a bad coil (even though its brand new)? If the ignition switch tests good, and I'm still not getting spark, the only other thing to go bad would be the coil, correct?
> 
> Thanks for all the help guys, and this site seems awesome, tons of really knowledgeable people on here!




I too have this exact same issue. I am assembling my husky 55. No spark....
I picked this saw up used. The coil/module that was on it had a real bad cut in the plug wire. So I bought a new oem unit. The coil is properly gapped, plug is good( I tried 4) and I unhooked the kill wire. No spark.
Any help guys will be appreciated.
The magnets in the fly wheel seen real strong. And yes, I was properly grounding the plug ro the cylinder.
I really don't want to order another coil at 80$.


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## cus_deluxe (Feb 9, 2016)

i guess its possible the flywheel is bad, but ive not come across that. sounds like a wiring issue. kill switch and wire good for sure?


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## mathewsdxt75 (Feb 9, 2016)

cus_deluxe said:


> i guess its possible the flywheel is bad, but ive not come across that. sounds like a wiring issue. kill switch and wire good for sure?



Yes, kill switch and wire are disconnected. I just put the old coil back on and it has super weak spark. I'm at a loss. I'm considering picking up a real cheapo Chinese coil just to see. 
I will also see if the the flywheel off my 50 is the same so I can try swapping.


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## cus_deluxe (Feb 9, 2016)

hmmmm....not sure if the 50 flywheel is the same, interested to hear if that works. you are sure air gap is right, and flywheel key hasnt sheared?


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## mathewsdxt75 (Feb 9, 2016)

cus_deluxe said:


> hmmmm....not sure if the 50 flywheel is the same, interested to hear if that works. you are sure air gap is right, and flywheel key hasnt sheared?




Yes. Gap is at .010 and I had the flywheel off and it is fine.


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## half_full (Feb 9, 2016)

I have two great running 55's. If you care to ship me the coil, I'll test it in a saw and ship it back. Try closing the gap. I've found some saws need a reduced gap to work well. Also, have you verified the flywheel is still in time? Hell, ship that too and I'll test the pair... 
Check the flywheel part number to ensure it's a 55 part #


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## mathewsdxt75 (Feb 9, 2016)

half_full said:


> I have two great running 55's. If you care to ship me the coil, I'll test it in a saw and ship it back. Try closing the gap. I've found some saws need a reduced gap to work well. Also, have you verified the flywheel is still in time? Hell, ship that too and I'll test the pair...
> Check the flywheel part number to ensure it's a 55 part #



I will keep that in mind. Thank you. I will try getting the gap a little tighter. I double checked it and it was at .014


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## cus_deluxe (Feb 9, 2016)

yeah sometimes its gotta be a touch closer. i shoot for .010


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## cus_deluxe (Feb 9, 2016)

and ive heard some people (who know a lot more than me) say that on some saws, some stihls especially, that a business card is too thick. they shoot for even less than .010


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## mathewsdxt75 (Feb 9, 2016)

As of right now, the gap is .009 and no spark. I'm going to go get my 50 and compare parts....


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## mathewsdxt75 (Feb 9, 2016)

No such luck. The flywheel on my 50 is different


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## smokey7 (Feb 10, 2016)

Are you pulling it with the recoil or using a drill to turn over? If using a drill you must spin in reverse from my the flywheel side. Also I've had aftermarket coils that had a piece of tin that touched the case that I had to bend away from the cases


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## mathewsdxt75 (Feb 10, 2016)

smokey7 said:


> Are you pulling it with the recoil or using a drill to turn over? If using a drill you must spin in reverse from my the flywheel side. Also I've had aftermarket coils that had a piece of tin that touched the case that I had to bend away from the cases




I am using a drill to turn it over. Yes I am spinning in reverse. I checked it over and cannot see anything grounded out.


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## AVB (Feb 10, 2016)

There is one ground you do need make sure is happening here. That is the one from the coil laminates to the cylinder. Things like loose cylinder bolts can cause problems.


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## mathewsdxt75 (Feb 10, 2016)

AVB said:


> There is one ground you do need make sure is happening here. That is the one from the coil laminates to the cylinder. Things like loose cylinder bolts can cause problems.


ahhh that makes a ton of sense. my ohm meter at home is acting up, i plan on bringing my good one home from work. I will definitely be checking that.


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## mathewsdxt75 (Feb 10, 2016)

so looking up part numbers.... does anyone know the difference between the 544018401 coil and the 544018301 coil??


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## AVB (Feb 10, 2016)

Some of the Am coils are listed as replacements for both but I would stick with the following; unless someone here knows better as may be timing differences.

Husqvarna 544 01 84-01 OEM Ignition Module for 55, 61, 268, 272 Chainsaws 

Husqvarna 544 01 83-01 OEM Ignition Module for 254, 257, 261, 262 Chainsaws


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## mathewsdxt75 (Feb 10, 2016)

AVB said:


> Some of the Am coils are listed as replacements for both but I would stick with the following; unless someone here knows better as may be timing differences.
> 
> Husqvarna 544 01 84-01 OEM Ignition Module for 55, 61, 268, 272 Chainsaws
> 
> Husqvarna 544 01 83-01 OEM Ignition Module for 254, 257, 261, 262 Chainsaws




It is confusing because some 55's list the 544 01 83 01 as the coil. I suppose it is a timing thing.


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## Grande Dog (Feb 10, 2016)

Howdy,
Your drill is going to need to be going at least 400-500 rpm's before it'll think about sparking. Flywheel gap is .3mm.
Regards
Gregg


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## mathewsdxt75 (Feb 10, 2016)

Grande Dog said:


> Howdy,
> Your drill is going to need to be going at least 400-500 rpm's before it'll think about sparking. Flywheel gap is .3mm.
> Regards
> Gregg




ok thank you. I will recheck the gap, and I will verify that the drill is spinning fast enough. Thanks agian


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## mathewsdxt75 (Feb 10, 2016)

I got it figured out. New oem husky coil.....bad I ended up swapping coil and flywheel over from my 50 special. They aren't quite the same, but good enough for diagnostic purposes. I started by swapping both coil and flywheel. Got spark. Then I put the original flywheel on, got spark..... moral of the story.....I guess we can't trust new parts.
Now I hope I don't have a battle trying to return a faulty part.
Thanks to all who gave me advice


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 13, 2016)

A lot of places won't take returned electrical parts...good luck!


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## mathewsdxt75 (Feb 13, 2016)

I am getting that feeling as the place I bought it from hasn't replied to my emails. I am ticked off of no reply. If they 100% will not take back an electronic part, at least tell me so. For now I have a chinese coil on it. I will have to order another coil from a AS sponsor so I know I'll get great service.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 13, 2016)

I'd run the Chinese coil until it proved to me to be bad. If you bought that coil from ebay you can file a claim and probably get a refund.


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## mathewsdxt75 (Feb 13, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I'd run the Chinese coil until it proved to me to be bad. If you bought that coil from ebay you can file a claim and probably get a refund.


I guess I can run the cheap one until it fails. I have back up saws.
I didn't buy it of ebay. Oh well.... live and learn


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 13, 2016)

Yeah, ebay will make them give you the money back and I imagine shipping also. It's pretty foolproof, for the buyer.


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## mathewsdxt75 (Feb 13, 2016)

I have heard that but never had to file a claim. I guess that is a good idea for next time ordering parts like that.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 13, 2016)

Usually you don't have to file a claim, just get in contact with most buyers and state your problem and they'll take care of it. Just choose a buyer that has been around for awhile and check his feedback to see his history of sales and you'll be okay.


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## smokey7 (Feb 15, 2016)

Great job. I had got 2 bad oem modules oem from dealer. Finally switch to a 1 piece coil from China and no problems for 2 years.


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## George Kozykowski (Jul 10, 2018)

I have a rancher 450, it was giving me problems starting and running. I changed the spark plug, air filter and fuel filter and checked my spark, there was none.

I did a continuity check and found that my coil was grounded. I first suspected the switch. After a little hunting I found that the factory crimp rubbed raw the coil wire insulation and was grounding it out. 

If you take the pullstart cover off and the air deflector you will see the coil. On the left side is a wire with green on it and on the right is a black wire.

The one with green is the coil wire, the one one the right is a ground wire. Both go to the switch. 

The problem was near the coil, both wires are shrink tubed together right near the coil, the blackwire has a ring crimp connector, this crimp connector has a sharp edge the with the vibration wore through the insulation on the green wire and shorted it to ground. 

You have to cut back the shrink tube to expose the whole connector, only one or two strands were exposed, but enought to ground out the coil. 

I tapped the raw wire and reassembled the saw and now it starts in the first pull and will idle without shutting off by itself. 

I read above where someone replaced the coil and still had no spark. I hope this helps someone out.


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