# CSM Recommendation



## Woodcutteranon (Aug 20, 2010)

I have developed an interest in milling from this site...I have never milled before and I think I would enjoy making my own boards. Honestly the logs I know I will be working won't be that big...probably under 20" diameter.

I don't want to sink a lot of money in this being an entry level hobby so I am curious your thoughts on what CSM to go with.

The saw is a Dolmar 7900 with 24" bar.

I am looking at the Granberg Small Log Alaskan Mill or the MK-III with 24 inch rails. Would the extra cash for the MK-III be worth it to me?

Thanks in advance for your help.


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## smokinj (Aug 20, 2010)

I would want the rail much nicer mill. imo I would also run an aux-oiler on it as well be a nice set-up for a 7900. You can make a aux-oiler yourself.


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## BobL (Aug 20, 2010)

The MkIII is a much better investment.

If (or should I say WHEN) you find you like it, to upgrade to a bigger mill only requires getting longer rails or , for an even bigger saving, making your own rails.


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## huskyhank (Aug 20, 2010)

Buy an Alaskan with longer rails - the cost is not much more and you can use more of your bar. The mills work fine with shorter bars, you just have a little extra rail hanging out.


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## smokinj (Aug 20, 2010)

huskyhank said:


> Buy an Alaskan with longer rails - the cost is not much more and you can use more of your bar. The mills work fine with shorter bars, you just have a little extra rail hanging out.



I was thinking that to but he already has a 24in. bar. I would go with a 30 inch if I had to buy the 24inch bar. (and already had a 28IN)


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## mtngun (Aug 20, 2010)

Woodcutteranon said:


> The saw is a Dolmar 7900 with 24" bar.


If you go with an Alaskan, bear in mind that the bar clamps take up about 6" of the bar. Your 24" bar would only be able to cut 18" max.


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## smokinj (Aug 20, 2010)

mtngun said:


> If you go with an Alaskan, bear in mind that the bar clamps take up about 6" of the bar. Your 24" bar would only be able to cut 18" max.



Close its rated at 20 inch.


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## dustytools (Aug 20, 2010)

I would agree with going with the MK-3. I purchased a Small log mill shortly after I bought my 30" mill just for the heck of it. I sold it shortly thereafter because the MK-3 was just so much more of a solid unit and I never seemed to use it.


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## sachsmo (Aug 20, 2010)

*Chainsaw Mill*

I would get one, or build your own. I built mine from aluminum extrusion, it's super light weight and rigid. 

If you go the build route, you can find the extrusion and brackets at 80/20, or faz-tec, google them you should find a dealer close by. I would think you should be able to buy the stuff for $100.-$120.

A carbide center cutting end mill is recommended for boring mounting holes in the bar. Others have used a good cobalt drill with success.

Since this pic was taken, I have drilled another hole in the center of the sprocket nose and gained nearly 3 inches of capacity.

~28 inch capacity with a 33 inch bar.





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When you catch the milling bug you will kick yourself for bucking and burning some of that good stuff from the past!





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## mtngun (Aug 20, 2010)

Nice log, Mobetter.


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## pwoller (Aug 20, 2010)

Has anyone used one of these?

http://pantherpros.com/Home_Page.php


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## BobL (Aug 21, 2010)

pwoller said:


> Has anyone used one of these?
> 
> http://pantherpros.com/Home_Page.php



That SHS railing works OK for a while on light weight saws but after under any sort of moderate use the locking bolts will start crushing and dimpling the tubing and on heavier saws it can start to buckle. A heavier c-channel for rails is a much better way to go.

I also find the purple and green thing in this pic somewhat disturbing


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## gemniii (Aug 21, 2010)

Woodcutteranon said:


> I have developed an interest in milling from this site...I have never milled before and I think I would enjoy making my own boards. Honestly the logs I know I will be working won't be that big...probably under 20" diameter.


But what about the logs that you have not been introduced to?
Here's the scenario:
Friend:"I heard you have a chainsaw and make lumber"
You: "Yup"
Friend: "I had this big Black Walnut tree that just got knocked over by a storm, would you like it? I'll help"
You: "YUP!!" (thinking - I should have got that bigger mill!!)

If you like milling your Dolmar could be bumped up with a BB and a muff mod to probably handle a 42" bar.

I've got a Stihl 660, for which (after a lot of discussion here) I got a 42" bar. I'm sure it could NOT handle a full 42" cut if I ever tried to use it for cross cut. But I'm pretty sure with my dual port muffler it will be able to handle a 32" cut in hardwood.









Woodcutteranon said:


> I don't want to sink a lot of money in this being an entry level hobby so I am curious your thoughts on what CSM to go with.



Depending on your skill level (can you do erector sets?) Your tools (can you drill Al?) The value of your time etc. building your own is a very viable route.

But as mobetteer pointed out:


mobetter said:


> I would get one, or build your own. I built mine from aluminum extrusion, it's super light weight and rigid.
> 
> If you go the build route, you can find the extrusion and brackets at 80/20, or faz-tec, google them you should find a dealer close by. I would think you should be able to buy the stuff for $100.-$120.



Al and parts will cost about $110.

A 36" Mark III from Baileys will cost $80 more (free shipping if you get an order over $200 by Aug 31st) delivered to your door. And you should be able to start milling by September.

You can probably start with the chain you have, but you will need files etc. to touch up the chain etc. 



Woodcutteranon said:


> The saw is a Dolmar 7900 with 24" bar.
> 
> I am looking at the Granberg Small Log Alaskan Mill or the MK-III with 24 inch rails. Would the extra cash for the MK-III be worth it to me?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help.



As others have pointed out you'll only be able to do smaller wood, but it wood get you started 

And PLEASE provide pics when you start. Vids w/ sound are nice also!

Get er' done


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## smokinj (Aug 21, 2010)

If that dolmar could handle a 42in. bar its not going to last long....Stay small or go BIG!


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## gemniii (Aug 21, 2010)

smokinj said:


> If that dolmar could handle a 42in. bar its not going to last long....Stay small or go BIG!



Please note - I only mentioned 42" "bumped up with a BB and a muff mod to probably handle a 42" bar"

and then only doing a 32" cut with the Mark III.

I think the OP would be underestimating his potential needs with a 24" Mark III, when the diff in price between that and the 36" is only $20.


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## smokinj (Aug 21, 2010)

gemniii said:


> Please note - I only mentioned 42" "bumped up with a BB and a muff mod to probably handle a 42" bar"
> 
> and then only doing a 32" cut with the Mark III.
> 
> I think the OP would be underestimating his potential needs with a 24" Mark III, when the diff in price between that and the 36" is only $20.



I dont see it. I run a 41in. on my 880 you hit some hard wood with 2/3 of the mill being used and your in for a fight...Cant see 84cc holding up very long. but jmho. I really think it would be a sweet mill the way the op thinking.


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## Woodcutteranon (Aug 21, 2010)

Ok...let me ask the dumb question.

With a 24" bar...would using longer rails, say...30 inch...make things more dificult for me as opposed to 24 inch rails.

I don't know if I'm making any sense. I was cutting earlier this morning and got dizzy. Too hot and humid!


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## smokinj (Aug 21, 2010)

Woodcutteranon said:


> Ok...let me ask the dumb question.
> 
> With a 24" bar...would using longer rails, say...30 inch...make things more dificult for me as opposed to 24 inch rails.
> 
> I don't know if I'm making any sense. I was cutting earlier this morning and got dizzy. Too hot and humid!



Not really its fully adjustable and nothing to get in the way. I would think up to a 28 and if it really hot saw maybe a 32in bar. Just make sure your running it rich and air filter clean. Aux-oiler would be a must at that point.


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## smokinj (Aug 24, 2010)

smokinj said:


> Not really its fully adjustable and nothing to get in the way. I would think up to a 28 and if it really hot saw maybe a 32in bar. Just make sure your running it rich and air filter clean. Aux-oiler would be a must at that point.




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6prQzESYDVY&feature=PlayList&p=B094F6742C0F01DC&index=0&playnext=1
here's a look at a 7900 in pine


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## BobL (Aug 24, 2010)

smokinj said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6prQzESYDVY&feature=PlayList&p=B094F6742C0F01DC&index=0&playnext=1
> here's a look at a 7900 in pine



That has got to be the least ergonomic way of using a mill I have seen in a while.


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## smokinj (Aug 24, 2010)

BobL said:


> That has got to be the least ergonomic way of using a mill I have seen in a while.



lol, really trying to see what kinda balls that 7900 has in the sideways long cut.


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## huskyhank (Aug 24, 2010)

BobL said:


> That has got to be the least ergonomic way of using a mill I have seen in a while.



That looks painful!
Even just swapping hands would help so much.
Then get some knee pads.
Or raise that little log up.


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## smokinj (Aug 24, 2010)

huskyhank said:


> That looks painful!
> Even just swapping hands would help so much.
> Then get some knee pads.
> Or raise that little log up.





Ok got to say I do not know this guy! lol Trying to see how the 7900 handles being strap to a mill.


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## smokinj (Aug 25, 2010)

kpantherpro said:


> Hi allow me to introduce myself, my name is Kim Kasten and I build the panthermills personally, to date I have sold quite few of them and had none returned, my customers have had nothing but good things to say about my mills except for maybe shipping time, 2-4 weeks. now granted those pics were taken when I first started making these and the wild thing was shown as an example of what could be used for a beginner, would I use it every day? no but if you needed it could be done. the design has changed so that they are all adjustable and Bobl mentioned that the design might be lacking strength, as far as the width and hieght it has 4 points for hieght and six points to adjust the length. as far as buckling, not gonna happen unless maybe you drop something on it, and I have some of these as large as 72" with no complants, I've personally cut thousands of b.f. and love this little mill. Another thing and the reason for all of the adjusting points is to hold accuracy, which I hear the alaskans lose theirs. If you want an accurate consistant chainsaw mill for about half the price, you may want to look me up, I do stand behind every product I make. www.pantherpros.com



That deluxe model looks very interesting any video's?


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## Woodcutteranon (Aug 25, 2010)

kpantherpro said:


> Hi allow me to introduce myself, my name is Kim Kasten and I build the panthermills personally, to date I have sold quite few of them and had none returned, my customers have had nothing but good things to say about my mills except for maybe shipping time, 2-4 weeks. now granted those pics were taken when I first started making these and the wild thing was shown as an example of what could be used for a beginner, would I use it every day? no but if you needed it could be done. the design has changed so that they are all adjustable and Bobl mentioned that the design might be lacking strength, as far as the width and hieght it has 4 points for hieght and six points to adjust the length. as far as buckling, not gonna happen unless maybe you drop something on it, and I have some of these as large as 72" with no complants, I've personally cut thousands of b.f. and love this little mill. Another thing and the reason for all of the adjusting points is to hold accuracy, which I hear the alaskans lose theirs. If you want an accurate consistant chainsaw mill for about half the price, you may want to look me up, I do stand behind every product I make. www.pantherpros.com



Ok...i'm interested. Let me think this over.


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