# Echo cs-800p



## Idahonative (Dec 9, 2015)

Have decided to start a thread dedicated to the Echo cs-800p since there is very little information out there on this saw. I also want to be able to add to the discussion without cluttering up someone else's thread. I was planning to run this saw with just a MM and tune but have changed my mind. I am cutting and pasting some posts into this thread to get it started:

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*Was planning on running it with just a MM and tune but have now changed my mind. The 800p is so new, there isn't much info out there on it. Yes, it's a revised cs8000 but it appears Echo has re-designed the top end. Reports on the 8000 are typical of Echo: TORQUEY, and will run close to the 90cc's with basic mods. The 800p should only be better.

Unfortunately, I'm not going to get any time on the saw since it now has an appointment in March**. I decided on getting it ported after doing what little research I could. Now don't hold me to this because, as of now, it's all speculation but...I think the 800p may very well have a chance of performing above the level of a stock 661 or 390xp. At least that's my hope...if it doesn't turn out that way, oh well, nothing lost. I will still have a saw capable of taking care of the big stuff when it comes along.

Interesting, when looking at:

cs800p: PHO: 16 lb, 8 oz. Fuel: 28.9 oz. Oil: 14.1 oz.  TTL: 19.18 MSRP: $829.99

390xp: PHO: 16 lb, 6.8 oz. Fuel: 30.43 oz. Oil: 16.91  TTL: 19.38 MSRP: $1,120.00

ms661: PHO: 16 lb, 11.2 oz. Fuel: 27.9 oz. Oil: 12.2  TTL: 19.20 MSRP: $1,289.95 

I'm sure I will get flamed for even mentioning the 800p in the same sentence as the 390xp and 661. But, the truth is (to my knowledge), no one really knows. The 800p is new and hasn't been looked at in this way. Like I said, if it doesn't work out like I think it might, nothing lost.*
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Found a post about porting the cs-8000 from a member named Chainsawbob1 back in 2005:

*"I've had two of them done at Greffards shop. They now turn 15,400rpm's no load. With the stock 36" bar, full comp chisel bit chain and cross cutting a 34" dia. fir log it turns 7000rpm's and cutting nice. When I sent them to Dennis I told him I wanted a very workable (not limited time use) saw that would keep up with a stock 066 magnum. It surpasses that request. Good job."
*
No way of knowing if what he says holds any truth though. Anyway, this is the start and if anyone feels like they have input, feel free to share.


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## Warped5 (Dec 9, 2015)

I think @leeha may have info to contribute ...


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## Four Paws (Dec 9, 2015)

I would say the manual override oiler is a great feature. I think the 800/8000 echo would make an excellent milling saw. 

Is the newest version rpm limited? EPA carburetor?


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## Idahonative (Dec 9, 2015)

Four Paws said:


> I would say the manual override oiler is a great feature. I think the 800/8000 echo would make an excellent milling saw.
> 
> Is the newest version rpm limited? EPA carburetor?



I believe it is unlimited. Not sure what's in the carb. I thought the same thing about the milling.


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## Four Paws (Dec 9, 2015)

Idahonative said:


> Not sure what's in the carb.



You own one, right? What model carb is on it? Fully adjustable? Limiters? Special adjustment tool necessary?


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## Idahonative (Dec 9, 2015)

Four Paws said:


> You own one, right? What model carb is on it? Fully adjustable? Limiters? Special adjustment tool necessary?



I guess I should have mentioned the saw is not in my possession yet.


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## RedneckChainsawRepair (Dec 9, 2015)

New ones quads with domed piston. Older singles with flat top.

I have all the carb info saved too on another site. Dont feel like looking up the old info already posted awhile back though.


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## CoreyB (Dec 9, 2015)

and videos


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## Idahonative (Dec 9, 2015)

Interesting comments from the past but not much on porting:

@mountainlake:
*"Just take the rakers down a bit to take advantage of the the torque , my CS8000 is only 1 or 2 seconds behind my 385xp in a 20 second cut which it shoud be, both stock Yes it wieghts to much but it's the same as my 385xp full. Steve"

"About 3 years ago I ran my CS8000 against one of my 044 saws , in bigger wood the 044 took 19 seconds , the CS8000 took 14 seconds. Same results yesterday with brand new chiesel chain off the same roll, in smaller wood they were about even. Also ran the CS8000 against my 385xp and Dolmar 7900 , at the best about a 2 second difference in a 20 second cut. Steve"*

*"My 8000 turns way slower than my 385xp, cuts almost as fast with the proper chain. Wieghts the same on a good scale. Steve"*


@JeremiahJohnson:
*"The JD 800 = 8000 I have IMO will cut with any pro saw in it's cc size. Most times this echo built saw will out cut them with it's tighten squish and 195psi. 
Only draw back of the 8000 IMO is the PHO weight is right close to a 066 660 weight. But if you can get a used one for the right money do it. But if buying new I would get a lighter saw JMO."*


@zogger:
*"I had a buncha saws stolen last year..and I miss the cs8000 the most. I only ran it with a 36 in big wood and it did just fine, and it had a superb auto oiler plus a manual oiler button. Easy to start, pulls chain and won't quit.*

*In factamundo, I am still splitting big rounds I cut with that saw.*

*Only negative I can think of is, apparently no full wrap handlebars for them.*

*If I still had it, it would be at the top of my list to get ported, as well."*


@rmh3481:
*"Ive done some work with them. I also heard that Echo hired a couple of two stroke builders to give them some input on their next generation of saw engines. Ed Heard did a 680 and Walkers did an 8000 but it looks to me like this one is quickest;"*
ECHO CS8000 HOT TUNE PIPE - YouTube


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## Cliff R (Dec 9, 2015)

I have owned two of the big Echo's, along with two CS-670's and one CS-6700. None of them are still in my line-up. I found the larger Echo saws to be OK for power production, but they did not have a broad/flat power curve as one would have expected from them. Since I was comparing them to my large Husqvarna Pro saws they simply didn't make the grade, so they went on down the road.

I found the CS-8000 to be heavy, lack-luster for power (decent but certainly not overly impressive anyplace), and it had a crappy air filter design. You also had to remove a tiny rubber cover to access the carburetor L/H screws, which I thought was a poor set-up, as it had to be put back in each time to test it in the cut or it would suck in dust/dirt/wood chips, etc. Nearly as I can remember they oiled the bar/chain all the time as well, not only when the chain clutch was moving like my Husqvarna pro saws do.

Not trying to paint a big black cloud over that line of saws, I actually love my Echo power equipment and have had next to zero issues with any of it. I simply found that the larger Echo saws, or at least the ones I owned and used, didn't compare to the Husqvarna pro saws I own in that same cc range.

In contrast, the smaller ones, specifically the CS-510 with nothing more than a simple muffler mod is a BEAST for 50cc. 

Hopefully the newer version(s) of the CS-800 have improvements to the P/C and improved power to weight ratio.......Cliff


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## Idahonative (Dec 9, 2015)

Cliff R said:


> I have owned two of the big Echo's, along with two CS-670's and one CS-6700. None of them are still in my line-up. I found the larger Echo saws to be OK for power production, but they did not have a broad/flat power curve as one would have expected from them. Since I was comparing them to my large Husqvarna Pro saws they simply didn't make the grade, so they went on down the road.
> 
> I found the CS-8000 to be heavy, lack-luster for power (decent but certainly not overly impressive anyplace), and it had a crappy air filter design. You also had to remove a tiny rubber cover to access the carburetor L/H screws, which I thought was a poor set-up, as it had to be put back in each time to test it in the cut or it would suck in dust/dirt/wood chips, etc. Nearly as I can remember they oiled the bar/chain all the time as well, not only when the chain clutch was moving like my Husqvarna pro saws do.
> 
> ...



Hey, I appreciate your honesty. This 800p is more of an experiment than anything. I'm not afraid to swim against the current even though sometimes I end up far down the river. The question on the 800p is: Can a woods port make it run like a 390xp or 661? I haven't found any proof that it can or can't. I've been needing a bigger saw for some time so even if this experiment is a flop, I'll still have a saw that handles bigger stuff when it comes along.

Just curious, had your previously owned 8000 had anything done to it? MM or tab delete or just stock?


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## bryanr2 (Dec 9, 2015)

looks like they got potential.


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## Cliff R (Dec 10, 2015)

"Just curious, had your previously owned 8000 had anything done to it? MM or tab delete or just stock?"

Mine were completely stock, not even muffler modded.
The CS-6700 was completely rebuilt with a new OEM P/C, and it was the most disappointing of the bunch. I found that saw to have a very narrow power range, and stalled against the clutch WAY too easily for my liking. This was with a 24" bar, so I went to a 20" and it was better. Compared to my Husqvarna 268XP it was a complete "turd", so I NEVER found myself reaching for the Echo for an outing.

I cut a LOT of firewood, and heat my shop and house with it for over 15 years now. I also work on power equipment for a living. I'm not brand specific about any of this stuff, and always try to provide unbiased information if/when I post on these things.

I have watched Echo continue to make improvements to their saws clear back to the EVL units. I actually purchased a new 500EVL way back in the early 1980's, and quickly replaced it with the 480CD that I still own and use today. Echo also made some reed-valve engine models up thru the years, then started using piston/porting and upright P/C's. I've owned just about every single one of them at one point or another, CS-300, CS-360T, CS-370, CS-400, CS-440, CS-510, CS-520, CS-670, CS-6700, CS-800. 

The little reed valve models are extremely underpowered everyplace. Most of the others that are CAT equipped respond very well to muffler mods, as does the CS-440/510/520's. 

I never port any of these engines, not into that sort of thing. I simply think that the science of porting is best left to folks who have considerable time/experience and make accurate comparisons, keep good records, and really know when they are helping these engines out/making improvements to them.

With all this said, and what I know about these things today, if I were starting from scratch, and needed a good saw line-up, it would consist of three or four Echo saws from about 40cc thru 60cc, one would be a top handle. The CS-620PW would for sure be one of those saws, and I'd probably compliment it with a 40cc and 50cc offering to fill the gaps. Since most of the big trees are gone from these parts, and 99 percent of my cutting is tops left over from logging operations, there is no need for anything bigger than 60cc these days.

One might ask why I would go Echo instead of sticking with the big names. The answer is simple, I can get professional grade equipment that will make good power, dead solid reliable, last for decades, and buy in cost 2/3rd of the competition.

Sorry to be so long winded, but for the topic at hand, I'm absolutely certain with correct porting and other modifications, your Echo CS-800 endeavor will be a great success, and you will learn a lot and have some fun along the way.......Cliff


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## Idahonative (Dec 10, 2015)

Cliff R said:


> "Just curious, had your previously owned 8000 had anything done to it? MM or tab delete or just stock?"
> 
> Mine were completely stock, not even muffler modded.
> The CS-6700 was completely rebuilt with a new OEM P/C, and it was the most disappointing of the bunch. I found that saw to have a very narrow power range, and stalled against the clutch WAY too easily for my liking. This was with a 24" bar, so I went to a 20" and it was better. Compared to my Husqvarna 268XP it was a complete "turd", so I NEVER found myself reaching for the Echo for an outing.
> ...



I've probably read nearly all of your past Echo posts and I agree, you are straight shoot'in and unbiased. I really enjoy reading your posts because you have different experiences/perspectives and call it like you see it.

I am a little surprised you hadn't tried MM'ing all of your Echo's from the past since we all know how stuffed up they come from the factory. I read what a fan you were (and still are) of the cs-510 with a MM:
*"...specifically the CS-510 with nothing more than a simple muffler mod is a BEAST for 50cc".*

I own that saw and totally agree with your assessment...it is a great little saw. But even as big a fan as I am of the 600 series Echo's, their performance out of the box is just "good". A MM and tab delete, however, makes them a great saw. Knowing what I know about Echo and their stuffed muffs, I would have a hard time running one without a MM and tune.


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## Cliff R (Dec 10, 2015)

"I am a little surprised you hadn't tried MM'ing all of your Echo's from the past"

I didn't muffler mod the 670's or 800's as they really aren't all that restrictive like the later models that use the CAT's in them.

One has to be careful with those sort of things, or you end up with a LOT of noise and no more if as much power as you started out with. I also use saws for firewood cutting, not to impress anyone other than myself.

I can tell anyone reading this for absolutely certain, in "stock" form a Husky 262XP or 268XP is a LOT more saw than a CS-670/6700 Echo. In the same sentence, they all cut firewood just fine. What used to really piss me off about the Echo's, at least with those models, is that they lacked the broad/smooth power curve and strong top end power of the XP Husky's. I found the power curve to be "raspy", narrow, and they stalled very easily against the clutch if the operator allows them to fall out of the "good power".

All that may be a completely different deal with some modifications and correct porting, and I'm looking forward to reading about your improvements......Cliff


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## yamess191 (Dec 10, 2015)

Let me start out by saying I dont post here much, I do buy and sell saws here but rarely participate in the threads, but I do enjoy reading them. I saw that this was about a saw that I happen to have some experience with professionally. 
I do tree work on my weekends and have always burned wood for heat. I have ran just about every size professional grade Stihl and Husqvarna on the job and at home. I have also used Redmax and Echo though only a few models. 
I have a Echo CS 8000 with a new style piston and cylinder in it. It also has been ported by a friend. Without the port job the saw was heavy and had lackluster power. Just as a few others have said, its power curve was rather narrow, and it was hard to keep it in the sweet spot. It also vibrates a little worse than a modern Stihl or Husky. Compared to my 372XPW or 575XP which both are stock it seemed like a dog. My friend's port job really did wake this saw up. Now it revs more freely, has power across the rpm's instead of a narrow window and holds RPM higher in the cut. It will barely out cut my stock 372XPW.
I plan on using this as my small milling saw because of the manual oiler and the fact that it is heavier than my other go to saws in this cc size (372 xpw and 575xp). I got mine for a song and a dance off of my local craigslist with a bad piston and cylinder, so I really dont have more than $300 into mine, plus I bet it had less than a hour on it when I bought it.
With all that said, I would not buy one of these saws to run stock. They are a dated design with rubber anti vibe mounts, mostly aluminum instead of plastics wich make them a little heavy, and really chocked up motor stock. I would spend the extra on a husky 372 or 385 or a stihl 460 or 650 and have almost a hot rod out of the box.


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## Idahonative (Dec 10, 2015)

yamess191 said:


> Let me start out by saying I dont post here much, I do buy and sell saws here but rarely participate in the threads, but I do enjoy reading them. I saw that this was about a saw that I happen to have some experience with professionally.
> I do tree work on my weekends and have always burned wood for heat. I have ran just about every size professional grade Stihl and Husqvarna on the job and at home. I have also used Redmax and Echo though only a few models.
> I have a Echo CS 8000 with a new style piston and cylinder in it. It also has been ported by a friend. Without the port job the saw was heavy and had lackluster power. Just as a few others have said, its power curve was rather narrow, and it was hard to keep it in the sweet spot. It also vibrates a little worse than a modern Stihl or Husky. Compared to my 372XPW or 575XP which both are stock it seemed like a dog. My friend's port job really did wake this saw up. Now it revs more freely, has power across the rpm's instead of a narrow window and holds RPM higher in the cut. It will barely out cut my stock 372XPW.
> I plan on using this as my small milling saw because of the manual oiler and the fact that it is heavier than my other go to saws in this cc size (372 xpw and 575xp). I got mine for a song and a dance off of my local craigslist with a bad piston and cylinder, so I really dont have more than $300 into mine, plus I bet it had less than a hour on it when I bought it.
> With all that said, I would not buy one of these saws to run stock. They are a dated design with rubber anti vibe mounts, mostly aluminum instead of plastics wich make them a little heavy, and really chocked up motor stock. I would spend the extra on a husky 372 or 385 or a stihl 460 or 650 and have almost a hot rod out of the box.



Are you saying your cs8000 is the same saw as the 800p?


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## yamess191 (Dec 10, 2015)

I dont know if it is the same saw.... but judging by the pics on echo's website they didn't change the body of the saw at all, though I have not looked up the part #s and compared. I do know that the cylinder and piston that I bought according to a representative at echo was the most recent version as of 6 months ago. So unless they redesigned the piston and cylinder again, I would bet mine is exactly the same. 
I failed to mention that I had a newer version of the CS 8000 also that I gave to my buddy who ports my saws for me, and it was exactly the same as mine, except piston, cylinder and it was grey not orange. I would love to see a CS 800 in person, but none of my dealers would stock a saw like that, this is Stihl and Husqvarna country out here.


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## Idahonative (Dec 10, 2015)

yamess191 said:


> I dont know if it is the same saw.... but judging by the pics on echo's website they didn't change the body of the saw at all, though I have not looked up the part #s and compared. I do know that the cylinder and piston that I bought according to a representative at echo was the most recent version as of 6 months ago. So unless they redesigned the piston and cylinder again, I would bet mine is exactly the same.
> I failed to mention that I had a newer version of the CS 8000 also that I gave to my buddy who ports my saws for me, and it was exactly the same as mine, except piston, cylinder and it was grey not orange. I would love to see a CS 800 in person, but none of my dealers would stock a saw like that, this is Stihl and Husqvarna country out here.



Looks like I might be trying to turn a Pinto into a Porsche...LOL. Oh well, the saw is paid for and the port date is set...can't turn back now. This thread may end up being a good Saturday Night Live skit though. At any rate, I'm thick skinned and ready for any deserving "punishment".


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## yamess191 (Dec 10, 2015)

Don't get me wrong, it is a good saw, I just think for professional use it is a little under powered, heavy and a dated design. I like all pro grade saws, some are just a little more refined than others.


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## Big Block (Dec 10, 2015)

bryanr2 said:


> looks like they got potential.




2 of my favorite videos. Love the way they get the piss revved out of them. That is definitely my cup of tea......or coffee or whatever is in that mug


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## SAWMIKAZE (Dec 11, 2015)

Idahonative said:


> Hey, I appreciate your honesty. This 800p is more of an experiment than anything. I'm not afraid to swim against the current even though sometimes I end up far down the river. The question on the 800p is: Can a woods port make it run like a 390xp or 661? I haven't found any proof that it can or can't. I've been needing a bigger saw for some time so even if this experiment is a flop, I'll still have a saw that handles bigger stuff when it comes along.
> 
> Just curious, had your previously owned 8000 had anything done to it? MM or tab delete or just stock?



This is one of the few echos i can speak personally on..i spent a day buckin big rounds with an 8000 owned by a friend of mine , in stock form it was very disappointing i didnt care for it at all , maybe echo is on to somethin with this new 800 ?


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## BoBDoG2o02 (Dec 11, 2015)

Echo fan boy, loving this thread. I'm saving pennies to get my CS-670 Masterminded.


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## CapitaineHaddoc (Dec 11, 2015)

Idahonative said:


> Looks like I might be trying to turn a Pinto into a Porsche...LOL. Oh well, the saw is paid for and the port date is set...can't turn back now. This thread may end up being a good Saturday Night Live skit though. At any rate, I'm thick skinned and ready for any deserving "punishment".



Don't worry, having it ported is the right way to "correct" this saw. A *good* builder will probably make it run like a (ported)?Dolly 7900 or so.


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## Cliff R (Dec 11, 2015)

The good news here is that they respond well to correct porting. 

I still remember my experiences with the CS-6700, it was "beat" when I got it, so it got a new OEM P/C. The porting in the P/C I received from Echo was pretty "weird" looking, and I was hoping that it was different than the later CS-670's. I had owned two of those by the time I ended up with the CS-6700, and was not happy with either one so they went on E-bay. 

When the CS-6700 was placed in service it was even WORSE than the CS-670's. The power curve was even narrower, and it easily dropped out of the good power to a point where the operator didn't dare to allow the dogs to get into the log and put any additional pressure into the cut. I pissed with it a couple of times in the wood pile then gave up on it. Didn't matter where you set the carb, and it was pretty loud and an inspection of the muffler really didn't show anyplace to help it as it was not restrictive. For sure in stock form it was a complete "turd", and at that point I had over $250 in the saw and wasn't going to get it back.

That's how we learn with these thing, but I don't have the knowledge/experience to improve these saws with porting. We also don't learn anything by sitting back and doing nothing. Some folks may wonder why I was throwing time/funds into these saws? The answer is simple, I was able to obtain them at very reasonable cost, and I had such a great experience with my CS-510 that I was hoping I could come up with a larger Echo saw that absolutely rocked but it wasn't going to happen with that chassis.

On a good note by watching the video and reading about how well the CS-800's can run with good port work, I don't think the OP has a lot to worry about here and will end up with a nice running well built saw......Cliff


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## Ironworker (Dec 11, 2015)

That saw would be more compatible to a 461/460 or a 576. Sure it would run better ported but you'd probably be better off with these or just shell out a couple of more bucks and get a 90cc saw and get that ported.


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## Idahonative (Dec 11, 2015)

Cliff R said:


> The good news here is that they respond well to correct porting.
> 
> I still remember my experiences with the CS-6700, it was "beat" when I got it, so it got a new OEM P/C. The porting in the P/C I received from Echo was pretty "weird" looking, and I was hoping that it was different than the later CS-670's. I had owned two of those by the time I ended up with the CS-6700, and was not happy with either one so they went on E-bay.
> 
> ...



Good post and I agree on the cs-670. The one in my sig. was my dad's and I haven't played with it a lot. What little I did do...same thoughts as you. I think there is good power to be found but not with the normal MM and tune. The saw is capable of turning some pretty high rpm's stock but it doesn't seem to matter. The muff doesn't seem to be bottle necked (best I can tell) so it's got to be somewhere else.

I tested that saw with the deflector off next to my 600p (MM & tune), noodling some tough dry elm. The 600p could hardly be stalled...the 670 stalled easily. The other very noticeable thing was the AV. The 600p was smooth as silk and the 670 pretty rough. I'm really hoping the 800p has a much better AV than the 670.

EDIT: The 670 mentioned above is a low hour saw and blowing 150 psi.


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## yamess191 (Dec 11, 2015)

interesting about the 670's and 6700's... I have a 670 that needs a piston and ring. I was thinking of running it with a chainsaw winch I got from my father in law.... Sounds like I will have to send it off to my buddy for some port work too!


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## Idahonative (Dec 11, 2015)

Ironworker said:


> That saw would be more compatible to a 461/460 or a 576. Sure it would run better ported but you'd probably be better off with these or just shell out a couple of more bucks and get a 90cc saw and get that ported.



If that's true (and it might be), a guy would be better off porting a 600p @ nearly 3.5 lbs. lighter on the PHO (vs. 800p). I've been told that ported 600p will cut right with a stock 460/461. The last two 600p's I bought off Ebay cost me $400 each brand new.


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## yamess191 (Dec 11, 2015)

that is probably true, chain speed and chain type make a big difference in cutting speed. It isn't always about CC's contrary to what people on this board think...


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## CapitaineHaddoc (Dec 11, 2015)

Idahonative said:


> If that's true (and it might be), a guy would be better off porting a 600p @ nearly 3.5 lbs. lighter on the PHO (vs. 800p). I've been told that ported 600p will cut right with a stock 460/461. The last two 600p's I bought off Ebay cost me $400 each brand new.


A ported 600p should be really close to the 461. My ported 562 is noticeably faster than a 461 w/"20 bar.


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## Cliff R (Dec 11, 2015)

I should also mention here that it is not my intent to "dog" the larger Echo offerings, they are still very well built saws and will last for many years w/o issues.

I took a hard run at them over a 2-3 year period before throwing the towel in. They all ran OK, but you will NEVER find yourself reaching for one if/when you have a perfect Husqvarna 181SE (185psi compression), 268XPS, and near perfect 262XP at your disposal. When the big Echo saws didn't make the grade, I sent them on down the road. If I didn't have the big Husqvarna's for sure they would still be in my line-up, and I would have also added an Echo CS-620PW by now.....FWIW......Cliff


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## CR888 (Dec 11, 2015)

l don't think anyone should 'have to' port a saw to make it acceptable. lf it is terrible stock, the engineers have failed to the point that they won't get my money in the first place, let alone have me sink in more for port work and machining. The best saws may improve with porting, but usually they were good to begin with and justify putting more money into if you desire. Echo have some new generation quad port piston port saws that rev and have a powerband that will keep them in business, however for a long time this was not so. Reliability has never been a problem either has quality, but building a saw with enough personality that gets people talking is something echo is only just starting to master.


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## CapitaineHaddoc (Dec 11, 2015)

CR888 said:


> l don't think anyone should 'have to' port a saw to make it acceptable. lf it is terrible stock, the engineers have failed to the point that they won't get my money in the first place, let alone have me sink in more for port work and machining. The best saws may improve with porting, but usually they were good to begin with and justify putting more money into if you desire. Echo have some new generation quad port piston port saws that rev and have a powerband that will keep them in business, however for a long time this was not so. Reliability has never been a problem either has quality, but building a saw with enough personality that gets people talking is something echo is only just starting to master.




That's the problem. Idahonative like this brand, so he'll try the biggest Echo available. Ad I suppose the Echo 800p cost less than a Husky 576, a Stihl MS461 or a Dolly 7910 in the USA, so I understand why he want to give it a try.

But imagine this:

http://www.parot-motoculture.com/in...nneuse-echo-cs-8002-cpe-60-cm-garantie-5-ans-

Yes, in France (and generally in Europe), the CS8002 is more expensive than a Stihl 661


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## CR888 (Dec 11, 2015)

l aint an echo (Yamabiko) hater they make quality stuff for sure, paired with shindaiwa their future looks bright! l have a couple of echo saws, like their top handles and some of their 50cc saws. l have a cs550p (55cc & current model) and its a good saw but........its similar in size/wieght to a 65cc saw. lt does run with broad powerband and smooth AV and if it was my only saw and l had not run other brands l am sure i'd be happy with it. But that's not the case as l have 555, 550xp, 6400/7900, solo 681, ms261(ported) that have better power to weight/size ratios which sadly leave the 550p echo in the shed. I want to give a 620p a go as its their latest offering and the saw seems to make better sense. l WILL be buying the new shindaiwa 25cc top handle...that little saw is slick, really light, has specs that rival the top two and just plain looks really well thought out/designed. l already have a 23cc makita top handle made by Yamabiko japan and love it. l am an echo supporter, but l am billy not silly too.


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## yamess191 (Dec 11, 2015)

All this talk about the echo 800 and 8000 and one on ebay turns up that looks almost new for $525! That is a pretty good price on a 80 cc saw that is almost new.....


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## Four Paws (Dec 11, 2015)

yamess191 said:


> All this talk about the echo 800 and 8000 and one on ebay turns up that looks almost new for $525! That is a pretty good price on a 80 cc saw that is almost new.....



True...

Seems a clapped out 044 brings about that same ammount. 

After eBay takes their cut, the seller is only getting $450. That's only $5.70/cc


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## RedneckChainsawRepair (Dec 11, 2015)

Sold this one PHO not all stock with big oem carb and 195psi for $350. Ran super great. 

Sure was no reason to waste another $350  paying someone to port this one IMO.


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## Idahonative (Dec 11, 2015)

JeremiahJohnson said:


> Sold this one PHO not all stock with big oem carb and 195psi for $350. Ran super great.
> 
> Sure was no reason to waste another $350  paying someone to port this one IMO.
> 
> ...



Is that a 36" skip? How did it pull that bar buried in wood?


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## Idahonative (Dec 12, 2015)

JeremiahJohnson said:


> Sold this one PHO not all stock with big oem carb and 195psi for $350. Ran super great.
> 
> Sure was no reason to waste another $350  paying someone to port this one IMO.
> 
> ...



I appreciate your input Kevin. Read some of your posts on another site and I like what I'm reading. If this 800p is an improvement on the cs-8000/JD 800v, it should be interesting:
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_"Here is what Brad thought of the JD after testing them back to back with 24" bar buried":

"I think more then a few were surprised with the _*yellow echo 8000 yesterday with 24" full comp full chisel chain buried in hardwoods. @blsnelling even took it with him to test against a Poulan 5200 85cc , Pioneer P60 98cc and he came back saying the JD 800 beat them both pushing hard and using normal bucking in hardwood testing."*
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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## blkcloud (Dec 12, 2015)

My big saw is the 8000 I have been running it for 15 years.. I'm wanting a new "big saw" but this one won't quit.. I've logged with it, milled with it.. And cut my firewood with it .. I also have the 670.. Same age as the 8000... They both just keep on trucking...


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## RedneckChainsawRepair (Dec 12, 2015)

I must say I am disappointed in the 6700 in the cut. I always said it felt like a husky 365 down on power in the cut. But the wood would never know the difference. 
I thought I could get alittle more with muffler mod and putting a 8000 carb on it. It felt better in the cut. I also put the side tensioner 670 clutch cover and brake set up on it. 
Then I ran my poulan 415. Nuff said I pulled the 8000 carb back off. Stock porting just isnt there on the 6700. Sort of reminds me of the poulan 3800 in the cuts. 

6700 up for trade PHO or b+c can be worked out for ?

Same chain for all 3 in dry harden ash.


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## Idahonative (Dec 23, 2015)

Got to unbox the saw today. My first impression: This thing is built like a tank...it's nearly all metal! Weighed 16.5 lb. out of the box which matched the specs. Compression out of the box was 145 psi. (that's gonna get bumped up). Muff is typical Echo...very stuffed up (that will change also).


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## CoreyB (Dec 23, 2015)

WoooHooo about time. I look forward to all your info on it. It is on my list as a possible future milling saw.


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## rmotoman (Dec 23, 2015)

Sure looks like an 8000 with bng (bold new graphics). The muffler is a little different.


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## Ironworker (Dec 24, 2015)

Nice, enjoy. Big saws are fun to run especially after some mods. What size bar are you gonna run on it.


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## RedneckChainsawRepair (Dec 24, 2015)

What carb is on the new one? New 8000 carb on right I just sold yesterday HDA-63-1 16.66mm.


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## Idahonative (Dec 24, 2015)

JeremiahJohnson said:


> What carb is on the new one? New 8000 carb on right I just sold yesterday HDA-63-1 16.66mm.
> 
> View attachment 472796



Thanks for your help with this (in our PM's). It appears that the 800p has a smaller carb than the 8000. Will be interesting to see, after it is ported, if the carb is a limiting factor. We will find out in March (@Mastermind).


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## Idahonative (Dec 24, 2015)

Ironworker said:


> Nice, enjoy. Big saws are fun to run especially after some mods. What size bar are you gonna run on it.



It came with a 36" but we won't use that very often. Will be nice to have it when the need arises though. This saw will probably see the majority of it's action with a 28" bar.


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## Idahonative (May 3, 2016)




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## 7sleeper (May 3, 2016)

Yeah, kind of runs ok.











7


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## Idahonative (May 3, 2016)

7sleeper said:


> Yeah, kind of runs ok.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Randy's done a great job on this saw but, as mentioned above, the carb is too small. He would like to put a bigger carb on it but it doesn't sound like there are many good options. I'm under the impression that with a bigger carb, there's power yet to be gained in this saw.


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## blsnelling (May 3, 2016)

Any before vids?


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## Idahonative (May 3, 2016)

blsnelling said:


> Any before vids?



None that I'm aware of.


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## heyduke (May 4, 2016)

JeremiahJohnson said:


> I must say I am disappointed in the 6700 in the cut. I always said it felt like a husky 365 down on power in the cut. But the wood would never know the difference.
> I thought I could get alittle more with muffler mod and putting a 8000 carb on it. It felt better in the cut. I also put the side tensioner 670 clutch cover and brake set up on it.
> Then I ran my poulan 415. Nuff said I pulled the 8000 carb back off. Stock porting just isnt there on the 6700. Sort of reminds me of the poulan 3800 in the cuts.
> 
> ...




JJ-

All saws are different and sawyers tune them differently but... your 6700 doesn't sound like its revving full song. my cs 670 is tuned to a max unloaded 13k rpm and a little rich on the L side and has good power. i suspect i could push that to 13.5k but i'm conservative by nature. most important it will hold its max torque rpm in the cut like a dog on a bone. i can keep the depth gauges low and lean on the spikes and it loves it. true, the big echos are not hotrods like their husky equivalents and don't sound as angry but they might produce more torque and do a little more in a days work. And they will last a long time.

i'm still unclear on the differences between the 680, 670 and 6700 and whether it would be smart to replace a worn out top end with the new quad port ones or if that's even possible. i'm skeptical.

Earlier comments by Chris R aren't too accurate in my opinion. My guess is that he prefers the more modern peakier, narrow power bands and higher rpms of the huskys. nothing wrong with that.


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## Idahonative (May 6, 2016)

I don't need to state the obvious but just to CMA: Ported vs. Ported, the 800p (80.7 cc) and the 661 (91.1 cc) are in different classes. But let's look at where Randy is with the 800p at this time. Just like Kevin suspected back in December, the 800p has a small carb and it's preventing it from being stronger. But even with an undersized carb, it being Randy's first go at the 800p, it being 10.4 cc smaller than the 661, and the fact that it's an echo (lol)...I think this saw is running damn good. It's hard to tell exactly but it looks like the 800p is running about 6 seconds slower than the ported "new recipe" 661 in the same log:




I may be wrong on this but if it's true that a "hamstrung" ported 800p is running that close to the ported 661, I think that's impressive. How would it run against a stock 661? And how would it run against a stock or ported 661 if it had a bigger carb? It might be closer than we think.


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## heyduke (May 6, 2016)

Idahonative said:


> I don't need to state the obvious but just to CMA: Ported vs. Ported, the 800p (80.7 cc) and the 661 (91.1 cc) are in different classes. But let's look at where Randy is with the 800p at this time. Just like Kevin suspected back in December, the 800p has a small carb and it's preventing it from being stronger. But even with an undersized carb, it being Randy's first go at the 800p, it being 10.4 cc smaller than the 661, and the fact that it's an echo (lol)...I think this saw is running damn good. It's hard to tell exactly but it looks like the 800p is running about 6 seconds slower than the ported "new recipe" 661 *in the same log:*
> 
> 
> 
> ...




interesting vids but the real questions, from the pov of crew trying to make a few bucks, are how fast will the truck get full, when can we move on to the next job and is this piece-a-crap going to break again? i've never worked with a 661 but have many hours, both working with and repairing, (stock) 066's, the reason i switched to a 394. i wonder if the echo 800's have smaller carbs than the echo 8000's. i've never measured one but the 8000's look pretty beefy. i wish more guys used the echos. then maybe we'd know the difference between models of the same displacement i.e. 670 vs 6700 and 800 vs. 8000. also, made me chuckle to see the husky bar instead of a d176 on the echo. better call jon1212.


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## Robin Wood (May 6, 2016)

echo always had small carbs, not sure whats the deal
anyway nice saw you got there


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## Big Block (May 6, 2016)

@Idahonative Why did you port a 600 instead of your 620? Just curious

Rock on my friend


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## Big Block (May 6, 2016)

What is holding you back from throwing on a big carb?


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## Idahonative (May 6, 2016)

Big Block said:


> What is holding you back from throwing on a big carb?



I'll answer this one first since it is the shorter answer. I'm curious what a bigger carb would do and Randy has told me that he is willing to do it. Finding one is not so easy...


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## Idahonative (May 6, 2016)

Big Block said:


> @Idahonative Why did you port a 600 instead of your 620? Just curious
> 
> Rock on my friend



Good question. For about a year now, I've wanted to bring some information to the Echo guys in a way that hasn't been done yet. I want to do some video comparisons between the 600 series saws. For example: MM & tune 600 vs. MM & Tune 620. This is one that is talked about a lot on these forums (with the Echo guys) because the 620 has an unlimited coil and possibly some timing & porting differences that give it a little more power. Often times when discussing the 600 series, it will be recommended to buy the 620 and skip the 600 for these reasons. I've been saying for a while now that a MM & tuned 600p cuts real close to a MM & tuned 620p. I just need to get some good vids so the information is accurate and I'm not just going by feel. The point being that, for what a 600p can be bought for, it's hard to pass one up for the more expensive 620p. The last two I bought NIB off Ebay for $400 each to my door (back in the winter). There just isn't another 60cc that can compete with that price vs. performance (except maybe the 590). Also, I believe guys put too much stock into the unlimited coil of the 620p. In the cut, where it matters, I don't see the unlimited coil as making that much difference. I need proof though.

Another fun one would be a MM & tuned 600p vs. a ported 600p. Yes, the ported 600p will whip it's a$$ but by how much? Is it enough to justify the cost of porting? Probably depends on the person but it's good information to have.

Same thing with a MM & tuned 620p vs. a ported 600p. Bought at the right price and even after paying to have someone port it, the ported 600p is a kick a$$ machine and won't cost much more than a stock 620p. But again, is it worth paying to have someone port it? Maybe a guy can do basic stuff himself like MM, tab delete, base gasket delete, etc. to raise the price vs. performance ratio. All good things to consider.

Sorry for the long winded response but to do the comparisons I want to do, I needed to leave the 620p pretty much stock for now. Is it possible I might have it ported later down the road? It's possible. Randy has mentioned that no one has sent him one to port and I'm curious what he could do with it. But someone will probably send him one before I get all my comparisons done so we will have that answer sooner rather than later I think.


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## Robin Wood (May 6, 2016)

the echo's i've ran always had wider power band
its like the power of husky and stihl combined but somehow in between
the easiest way to describe is probably with a graph, where its low meets stihl and high meets husky
cuts fast like husky and doesnt bog like stihl
anyway good luck with your testing and hope you get what you're looking for


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## Cliff R (May 7, 2016)

There are also different versions of the 600P and they have different part numbers for the P/C. My 600P Ebay purchase ended up being an early version. It flat ROCKS and I've done nothing more to it than install the higher muffler deflector set-up used on the later CS-590's with the restriction trimmed out of it. I wouldn't touch it for any reason, which includes increasing squish or porting of any kind. It cuts very fast, with a broad/smooth power curve, and not lacking anyplace.

I've heard several comments about the CS-620's being up to 25 percent higher in power than the CS-590's/600's. At some point I'll get one and do some time cutting against the CS-590 and 600 that I have, but not really expecting to see that much difference in them.......Cliff


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## Idahonative (May 7, 2016)

Cliff R said:


> There are also different versions of the 600P and they have different part numbers for the P/C. My 600P Ebay purchase ended up being an early version. It flat ROCKS and I've done nothing more to it than install the higher muffler deflector set-up used on the later CS-590's with the restriction trimmed out of it. I wouldn't touch it for any reason, which includes increasing squish or porting of any kind. It cuts very fast, with a broad/smooth power curve, and not lacking anyplace.
> 
> I've heard several comments about the CS-620's being up to 25 percent higher in power than the CS-590's/600's. At some point I'll get one and do some time cutting against the CS-590 and 600 that I have, but not really expecting to see that much difference in them.......Cliff



I really like my MM & tuned 600p. It starts super easy and cuts really good and of course, is reliable. It's a 2012 version with the aluminum handle (2nd gen?). Like you, I see myself keeping that saw for a long time just how it is.

When you handle a 620p, it feels more powerful. It's more snappy and responsive and revs higher than the 600p. But in the cut, it's real close. My 620 is not 25% more powerful than the 600...that I'm sure of. Don't get me wrong, I like the 620p a lot but my point, comparing the two, has been the price vs. performance difference. The 600p's seem to show up on Ebay once in a while for really good prices. But I've never seen a NIB 620p come through there at a discounted price. Around $600 is the best I've seen on a new 620.

Edit: One thing I don't mention enough on these 600 series Echo's is just how good the AV system is. They are VERY smooth.


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## Robin Wood (May 7, 2016)

the cure for your sickness is cs1201


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## Idahonative (May 7, 2016)

Robin Wood said:


> the cure for your sickness is cs1201



I'd love to have one but last I heard they couldn't be imported into this country. How do we get our hands on one?


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## 7sleeper (May 7, 2016)

@Idahonative 

Your asking the right guy the wrong question! The right question would be when can you send me one... But don't be afraid of sticker shock, that is the only reason I haven't ordered one here yet!

7


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## hseII (May 7, 2016)

Robin Wood said:


> the cure for your sickness is cs1201



Status Mista.


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## Idahonative (May 7, 2016)

7sleeper said:


> @Idahonative
> 
> Your asking the right guy the wrong question! The right question would be when can you send me one... But don't be afraid of sticker shock, that is the only reason I haven't ordered one here yet!
> 
> 7



How much we talking? How much difference in pricing between Asia & Austria?


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## Cliff R (May 8, 2016)

"I really like my MM & tuned 600p. It starts super easy and cuts really good and of course, is reliable. It's a 2012 version with the aluminum handle (2nd gen?). Like you, I see myself keeping that saw for a long time just how it is."

Mine for sure is a keeper. I did noticed in the IPL's that the early version like I have uses a different P/C and coil. From what I can remember the later 600's use the same P/C as the CS-590's. 

Aside from the coil on the CS-590 acting limited, I really don't notice a big difference between those two saws, they both have PLENTY of power for 60cc. I also seriously doubt if a CS-620 is 25 percent more powerful or faster, hopefully I get the opportunity to find out one of these days, been trying to snag one up, but as mentioned, they are not discounted in the $350-450 range like we frequently see the CS-590's and 600's.......Cliff


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## Idahonative (May 8, 2016)

What year is printed on your saw @Cliff R ? Did it come with a plastic handle?


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## Cliff R (May 8, 2016)

No year printed like the CS-590, but it's early and has the plastic handle......Cliff


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## Idahonative (May 8, 2016)

Cliff R said:


> No year printed like the CS-590, but it's early and has the plastic handle......Cliff



Actually I was asking about your 600p. I thought the early ones (before 2012) came with a plastic handle but I might be wrong on that.


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## Cliff R (May 9, 2016)

Correct, no year is listed on the EPA tag or near the serial number on the 600P. It's an early unit going by the IPL and has the plastic handle instead of aluminum. 

Mine falls in the first serial number range in the IPL's. It lists the cylinder as part number A130000910. The later 600's use A130002040 same as the CS-590's.

The early 600 also uses coil A411000450 and the CS-590's use A411001340. Not sure what the differences are and the CS-620's use different cylinders and coils as well.

I can say that both the CS-590 and CS-600 as strong runners, not lacking anyplace for 60cc. I've logged enough hours on mine at this point to consider them one of the beast deals currently out there for a Pro-grade 60cc saw. I can't fault them anyplace except maybe for weight, but in every other category they are excellent, this includes no load rpms, chain speed, cutting power, broad power curve, instant starting hot or cold, fuel consumption, anti-vibe/ergonomics, and noise level. I can't even see as they need any help with improving squish or porting, but I'm really not into that sort of thing anyhow. I'd much rather buy the race horse ready to take to the track, so to speak...........Cliff


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## mountainlake (May 10, 2016)

I'd bet most of the gain on a 620 is right at the muff, if Echo raised the exhaust port to gain a few RPM at the expense of lower RPM torque I'll run the 590 or 600 with a muff modd as I don't like finicky high rpm saws that fall flat on their face soon as the rpm drops. Steve


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## Idahonative (May 10, 2016)

mountainlake said:


> I'd bet most of the gain on a 620 is right at the muff, if Echo raised the exhaust port to gain a few RPM at the expense of lower RPM torque I'll run the 590 or 600 with a muff modd as *I don't like finicky high rpm saws that fall flat on their face soon as the rpm drops.* Steve



I wouldn't describe the 620p that way at all. Echo didn't do anything to mess up the torque we've grown to love.


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## Cliff R (May 11, 2016)

Spent some time yesterday with a new CS-590. One of my good friends and customers who owns a tree service dropped the hammer on one for a ground saw for his crew. He ran my CS-600 recently and absolutely loved it. He's replacing a 555XP that he just smoked the P/C on. He did note that the CS-590 was a bit heavier, but loved the smooth broad power curve. This will be a good test for the lower end of the range on that Echo 60cc platform. He'll run the bag off of it, cutting up 11 nice size Ash trees with it today, so we'll get a report as to how well it does in full time service and any problems or durability issues as well, since I'll be doing all the service/repairs on it.......Cliff


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## heyduke (May 11, 2016)

Cliff R said:


> Spent some time yesterday with a new CS-590. One of my good friends and customers who owns a tree service dropped the hammer on one for a ground saw for his crew. He ran my CS-600 recently and absolutely loved it. He's replacing a 555XP that he just smoked the P/C on. He did note that the CS-590 was a bit heavier, but loved the smooth broad power curve. This will be a good test for the lower end of the range on that Echo 60cc platform. He'll run the bag off of it, cutting up 11 nice size Ash trees with it today, so we'll get a report as to how well it does in full time service and any problems or durability issues as well, since I'll be doing all the service/repairs on it.......Cliff



cliff-

i just came across three older echos, a 670, a 6700 and an 8000. they are three similar saws sharing some common parts and design concepts. the 6700 and 8000 are very early. i think the 800 has a s/n in the 1000's and they all have really high hours. one has scar tissue on the top that looks like burns and i suspect it was used by a fire crew. all three have great compression and are built with more magnesium and aluminum than plastic. the two oldest ones have the plastic oil pump drive gears which seem to deteriorate after 25 years. anyway, i'm waiting on parts now so i can get them back to as-built. it occurred to me to check for an echo sticky thread on this sight but found none. later, when parts arrive, i'll post on the oil pump drive retrofit.

by the way, tractor supply sells a 20" d176 guide bar with real pro chain, 70dl, for $40.


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## Cliff R (May 12, 2016)

I've owned two CS-670, one 6700 and an 8000. They all have the same power characteristics as well, somewhat narrow power curve and pull very easily out of the good power and stall against the clutch. The 6700 was the worst of the three and it had a new P/C on it.

I exploited them for a while then gave up and put all of them up on Ebay and moved on. The CS-590/600/620's are a completely different animal, with very impressive high rpm power and broad/smooth power curve. I ran both of mine yesterday cutting HUGE oak and Beech logs/stumps and they never grumbled one. Just for kicks I used the 600P to cut off a 40" wide Red Oak stump and had the bar completely buried the entire time and it never stalled once against the clutch.

Then I used both saws to cross-cut the huge pieces to make them manageable........Cliff


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## heyduke (May 12, 2016)

Cliff R said:


> I've owned two CS-670, one 6700 and an 8000. They all have the same power characteristics as well, somewhat narrow power curve and pull very easily out of the good power and stall against the clutch. The 6700 was the worst of the three and it had a new P/C on it.
> 
> I exploited them for a while then gave up and put all of them up on Ebay and moved on. The CS-590/600/620's are a completely different animal, with very impressive high rpm power and broad/smooth power curve. I ran both of mine yesterday cutting HUGE oak and Beech logs/stumps and they never grumbled one. Just for kicks I used the 600P to cut off a 40" wide Red Oak stump and had the bar completely buried the entire time and it never stalled once against the clutch.
> 
> ...



your 670/6700/8000's were a different breed of cat than mine. i haven't run the 8000 yet, waiting for an air filter, but mine have wide power curves with ample torque. they don't spin as fast but once the find the rpm where max torque lives they'll stick there tenaciously. these are characteristics described by quite a few who use theses saws. makes me wonder if there was something wrong with yours. yes, the little 59.8cc echos are different, sort of a toyota to an f250. i like the look of the clutch/oil pump drive. but 60cc saws just don't do it for me, not there's anything wrong with it. i'm glad that echo is still selling the 680 and the 8000. there's still a small market for a high quality workhorse. for most weekend woodcutters the 60cc echos may be a better choice. lot of the hombres around here use poulans and 029s... not me.


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## Cliff R (May 13, 2016)

"your 670/6700/8000's were a different breed of cat than mine. i haven't run the 8000 yet, waiting for an air filter, but mine have wide power curves with ample torque. they don't spin as fast but once the find the rpm where max torque lives they'll stick there tenaciously. these are characteristics described by quite a few who use theses saws. makes me wonder if there was something wrong with yours"

Yes there was something wrong with them, they were WAY down on power for the cc's. One of the CS-670's and the 8000 were new, the other CS-670 slightly used, and completely rebuilt the CS-6700 with a new OEM P/C. The CS-6700 was the worst of the bunch, it pulled WAY too easily out of the power. They all had decent "grunt", and I'm not saying here they were complete "turds" or anything of the sort. They simply lacked impressive top end power and I found their power curves to be narrow as well. 

I owned those saws for quite a while and cut a good amount of firewood with them, but at that time I was running my 262XP and 268XP and more and more very seldom found myself reaching for the big Echo's. I actually loaned out one of the CS-670's for over a year and the guy thought it was a great running saw.

About the same time I acquired a CS-510, and it was just the opposite of the bigger saws. Super impressive top end power and strong mid-range power as well, with a very broad power curve. I kept it and still run it a LOT, all of the others went on Ebay. 

The CS-590/600/620's sparked my interest so I sat back and watched folks talk about them for a while then dropped the hammer on a CS-590 and 600P. Echo did it right with those saws, I've pretty much retired my 262xp and 268xp.......Cliff


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## mountainlake (May 13, 2016)

I find a Echo CS 670 or CS8000 has the most torque of any saw in that cc range and I'd rather run them them than any other brand cc for cc . A Dolmar 7900 cut just as fast but has a real narrow power band. Steve


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## heyduke (May 13, 2016)

Cliff R said:


> "your 670/6700/8000's were a different breed of cat than mine. i haven't run the 8000 yet, waiting for an air filter, but mine have wide power curves with ample torque. they don't spin as fast but once the find the rpm where max torque lives they'll stick there tenaciously. these are characteristics described by quite a few who use theses saws. makes me wonder if there was something wrong with yours"
> 
> Yes there was something wrong with them, they were WAY down on power for the cc's. One of the CS-670's and the 8000 were new, the other CS-670 slightly used, and completely rebuilt the CS-6700 with a new OEM P/C. The CS-6700 was the worst of the bunch, it pulled WAY too easily out of the power. They all had decent "grunt", and I'm not saying here they were complete "turds" or anything of the sort. They simply lacked impressive top end power and I found their power curves to be narrow as well.
> 
> ...



where i live, we have a saying, "no esta el saruche, esta el hombre." (it isn't the saw, it's the man.)


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## Idahonative (May 23, 2016)

Unpacked the 800p from Randy today. It had 145 psi out of the box new. It now has 176 psi. This saw has no decompression valve but is still easy to start.


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## James Miller (Jun 20, 2016)

Idahonative said:


> Unpacked the 800p from Randy today. It had 145 psi out of the box new. It now has 176 psi. This saw has no decompression valve but is still easy to start.


 If you don't mind me asking what did it cost to have your 500 ported. Iv got a 490 I'd like to have done. Won't be getting ahold of mastermind here so maybe I'll try talking to brad.


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## Chainsaw Jim (Jun 20, 2016)

Did you get a larger carb on your 800?
It looks like it wouldn't take much to get an HD or WJ carb to work. The HDA is capable of working as well with a simple mod.


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## Idahonative (Jun 20, 2016)

Chainsaw Jim said:


> Did you get a larger carb on your 800?
> It looks like it wouldn't take much to get an HD or WJ carb to work. The HDA is capable of working as well with a simple mod.



Google: Echo Chainsaw Fun - 2016


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## Idahonative (Jun 20, 2016)

James Miller said:


> If you don't mind me asking what did it cost to have your 500 ported. Iv got a 490 I'd like to have done. Won't be getting ahold of mastermind here so maybe I'll try talking to brad.



I'm sure if you PM Brad he will quote you a price.


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## James Miller (Jun 20, 2016)

Will do


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## James Miller (Jun 20, 2016)

Will do


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## Full Chisel (Jun 20, 2016)

So...how's it run?


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## Idahonative (Jun 20, 2016)

Full Chisel said:


> So...how's it run?



Runs excellent...pulled a 36" bar with Oregon LPX chain through 40+ inch Red Fir no problem at all even with the OEM carb. Running 40:1, 6300 ft. elevation, and running rich for break in:


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## Full Chisel (Jun 20, 2016)

Nice, looks like it has some good torque while still keeping the RPMs up.


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## Chainsaw Jim (Jun 20, 2016)

Idahonative said:


> Google: Echo Chainsaw Fun - 2016


I tried but the definition for "oxymoron" keeps popping up.


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## Idahonative (Jun 20, 2016)

Chainsaw Jim said:


> I tried but the definition for "oxymoron" keeps popping up.



LOL...are you one of those Echo haters? There's getting to be fewer and fewer of them around here.


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## Chainsaw Jim (Jun 20, 2016)

Idahonative said:


> LOL...are you one of those Echo haters? There's getting to be fewer and fewer of them around here.


It's strange that you would ask me that, but no. 
I don't know that they're haters as much as instigators with easy targets.


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## Big Block (Jun 20, 2016)

mountainlake said:


> I'd bet most of the gain on a 620 is right at the muff, if Echo raised the exhaust port to gain a few RPM at the expense of lower RPM torque I'll run the 590 or 600 with a muff modd as I don't like finicky high rpm saws that fall flat on their face soon as the rpm drops. Steve



I don't think so the porting is different the carb is bigger the coil bla bla bla. I've talked to guys that have been in them. The muff is the same other than the entrance from the exhaust on the jug. 



James Miller said:


> If you don't mind me asking what did it cost to have your 500 ported. Iv got a 490 I'd like to have done. Won't be getting ahold of mastermind here so maybe I'll try talking to brad.



I tried to get him to port my two saws for me. No interest he said he is not taking on new jobs and doesn't know when he will be. So I went to mastermind he got me penciled in for the 25th of August for my 372.


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## Big Block (Jun 20, 2016)

Anybody know if @dozerdan is still porting? BTW I just emailed mastermind his address is on his profile here on AS


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## Idahonative (Jun 20, 2016)

Chainsaw Jim said:


> It's strange that you would ask me that, but no.
> I don't know that they're haters as much as instigators with easy targets.



Not all of us can be professional firewood hacks running Stihl and Husky.


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## Idahonative (Jun 20, 2016)

Big Block said:


> I don't think so the porting is different the carb is bigger the coil bla bla bla. I've talked to guys that have been in them. The muff is the same other than the entrance from the exhaust on the jug.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to get him to port my two saws for me. No interest he said he is not taking on new jobs and doesn't know when he will be. So I went to mastermind he got me penciled in for the 25th of August for my 372.



The wait for Randy is worth it Big Block...you won't be disappointed. He's a class act and that's all I'm gonna say.


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## Chainsaw Jim (Jun 20, 2016)

Idahonative said:


> Not all of us can be professional firewood hacks running Stihl and Husky.


I was genuinely interested in the carb problem you asked for help about. And genuinely interested in helping or learning about what help you may have received. 
Now you're accusing me of brand bashing and going on about how you cannot afford equivalent of a Stihl or Husqvarna as you spend as much if not more than one will cost you.


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## CoreyB (Jun 20, 2016)

Idahonative said:


> The wait for Randy is worth it Big Block...you won't be disappointed. He's a class act and that's all I'm gonna say.


Randy is a good guy. He is one of my best customers.


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## Idahonative (Jun 21, 2016)

Chainsaw Jim said:


> I was genuinely interested in the carb problem you asked for help about. And genuinely interested in helping or learning about what help you may have received.
> Now you're accusing me of brand bashing and going on about how you cannot afford equivalent of a Stihl or Husqvarna as you spend as much if not more than one will cost you.



Hold on Jim...I was cutting up with you, hence the "smiley face" and "LOL". I'm not accusing you of anything and I'm sorry if you took it that way. Sometimes these posts are a lot like texts in that the other person can't hear the voice or see the body language. I'm really sorry you took it that way.

And to let you know about the carb: Another member was kind enough to send his carb to Randy to try on my 800p but Randy had already sent the saw back to me. So Randy sent the carb to me and I received it the day before I was to go with my cousin to cut up the tree in the vid above. I've got the bigger carb sitting here at the house but have not had time to mess with it. And after this last trip, I'm not sure it needs a bigger carb for soft wood. It seems to pull a 36" bar with authority in 40" Red Fir and I believe it will only get better as it breaks in.


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## Chainsaw Jim (Jun 21, 2016)

I'm hoping you're curious enough to try it out before too long..and in the same wood for good comparison to the existing carb.


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## rmh3481 (Jun 21, 2016)

The carb your looking for is a Walbro HDA-45, which was used on the 8000p. The casting size is larger, like an early HD. Throttle bore is 19.5mm, with a 23mm choke bore. They are around if you look, the last one I bought was new via Ebay. Part number 12300030830.


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## Idahonative (Jun 21, 2016)

rmh3481 said:


> The carb your looking for is a Walbro HDA-45, which was used on the 8000p. The casting size is larger, like an early HD. Throttle bore is 19.5mm, with a 23mm choke bore. They are around if you look, the last one I bought was new via Ebay. Part number 12300030830.



The carb Larry sent to try was off his cs-8000 and is the HDA 63-1. The OEM carb for the 800p is the HDA 153B.

I will look into the HDA-45 you speak of...thanks.


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## mountainlake (Jun 21, 2016)

According to Walbro select the series

HDA 153-1 15.8
HDA 63-1 16.66
HDA 45-1 16.67. Steve


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## Echo1 (Mar 12, 2017)

It would be nice if someone could post some pictures of a modified muffler. For the cs-8000, I know it would help alot of us get it right the first time.


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## rmh3481 (Mar 12, 2017)

There are 3 dimensions to a diaphragm carb: choke bore, venturi and throttle bore. Hda-63 choke bore is .750 and the throttle bore is also .750. Hda-45 has a choke bore of .885 and a throttle bore of .800. Both have the venturi of 42/64.


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## The Singing Arborist (Jun 27, 2018)

I have thoroughly loved this thread as I've been on the fence between the cs800, the 576 xp, or the ms461. Now I'm leaning back to the 800, but I have a few followup questions for Idahonative and would like to revive the tread. 

Have you given the larger carb a shot? How has your cs 800 been this past year? How much did the port cost and do you think it was worth the $? 

Big thanks for all the info you put in previously.


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## Kcdub1000 (Apr 15, 2019)

Hello. First post here. I have read and learned alot here. So thank you every one. I am posting here because this thread seems to deal directly with porting the cs800..



Any way I am posting here because I recently bought a cs800 for a decent deal on Ebay. I also decided to do my first ever port job on the saw. I did run it for a day on some smaller oak. To make sure it ran and to see how it would do. It was not to bad, however I never buried the bar either. Previous saw in this size i had was a stihl ms460 mag pre epa. That was a great saw. 

So not knowing any numbers for this 800 I figured I probably should stick to mainly widing the ports and not adj timing to much on my first build.




So here are the numbers I got. 

Stock:
Ex: 102
Tr: 124
In: 108
Bd: 22

Compreshion: 121 psi @ruffly 3000 elevation.

Squish: .051 

I decided to bump compreshion up. Seems low compared to the OP 145 psi out of the box.

So I cut the base. And left the gasket. 




After base cut 

Squish: .028
Compreshion: 150psi @ ruffly 3000 elevation. 

I adj the transfers and exhaust back up as close to stock as I could get it with my final numbers at.

Ex: 102.5
Tr: 125
In: 104
Bd:22.5







Exhaust port widened to 63% of bore diameter. I couldn't widen intake to much due to transfers.
Here is intake 





I'm not expecting this saw to be a real high revver. It should be capable of moving more air and fuel though. The intake was very mismatched. The steel ring they press into the intake needed to be blended bad. I am going to go today and tune it in some big dry oak.

I do have the walbro 63-1 carb on order . I am going to try this saw out with stock carb and then try the 63. 

I am hoping for a saw that dosnt want to bog. I should throw my tach on but its riding on top of my cs590 rite now. (Another project)
I will post back how it ran.. hope she dont pop her top..


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## Kcdub1000 (Apr 15, 2019)

Here is a quick video of today. I wanted to run the saw all the way through the log but there was tension on where I was cutting. I did not want to get the saw stuck first thing. I think its definatly running a little rich. If I really lean on it it will clean up and pull nicely. This is stock chain running 40:1 in oak that has bein drying for 3 or 4 years now. Once we dig the bigger logs out of the stack and make them safer to cut I will possibley post another video of the saw fully tuned


Dose any one have any numbers for this saw that work well?

I'm curious what the bigger carb will do. I hope it fits. Any one ever tried putting the 8000 carb on the 800 yet? I see it was mentioned early on. I realize this thread is old. And there doesn't seem to be much info out there on these.

So far there are only 2 things that I'm not fond of on this saw. Ok 3 ..all pretty minor.

1. The bar oil never stops flowing if the saw is running. (Leaks worse than my chevy)

2. No compreshion release. Dosnt have to have it but would be nice.

3. I do not like the plug you have to pull to adj the carb screws. If you dont put it back between adj. You will suck dust strait into your engine. and it is a total pain to push in and out. But once its tuned you shouldn't have to mess with it to much.

I am loving both my new echos the 590 and this 800.


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## James Miller (Apr 15, 2019)

Nice to see someone show the big echo some love. I handled an 800 a few times but ended up with a 7910 as my big saw. Your 590 should show good gains from porting also


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## Kcdub1000 (Apr 15, 2019)

Yeah thanks James! I have been thinking about porting the 590 since there seems to be way more info available for porting that saw. Just a mm and tune made a big difference. I threw a 620 coil on for ease of tuning. It runs very well. I can only imagine after a decent port job. 

I have never run a dolmar before. How do you like it? They look like nice saws.


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## DSW (Apr 15, 2019)

Here's one done by Red who posts here. He's got the Echo's figured out. 

I'd be willing to bet it'd make a 462 look like a $1200 paperweight.


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## James Miller (Apr 16, 2019)

Kcdub1000 said:


> Yeah thanks James! I have been thinking about porting the 590 since there seems to be way more info available for porting that saw. Just a mm and tune made a big difference. I threw a 620 coil on for ease of tuning. It runs very well. I can only imagine after a decent port job.
> 
> I have never run a dolmar before. How do you like it? They look like nice saws.


My ported 590 was going to be my big saw till someone offered to buy the 7910 for me.
The 7910 is light weight for its displacement till you take a 462 for a spin. Good antivibe great power. Wish it had the 13.5k coil the original 7900 had I might do the 272 coil swap and make it unlimited some day.
Wish I had a 620 coil and carb for my ported 590 I think they would make good finishing touches to the work that was done.


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## Kcdub1000 (Apr 16, 2019)

Here's one done by Red who posts here. He's got the Echo's figured out.

I'd be willing to bet it'd make a 462 look like a $1200 paperweight. [/QUOTE]


That's a nice saw there. That's the older grey one. That should be a 2 transfer port cylinder. with a flat top piston I believe. There dose seem to be some info on this cylinder set up but not to much on the newer quad with domed piston.


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## Kcdub1000 (Apr 16, 2019)

James Miller said:


> My ported 590 was going to be my big saw till someone offered to buy the 7910 for me.
> The 7910 is light weight for its displacement till you take a 462 for a spin. Good antivibe great power. Wish it had the 13.5k coil the original 7900 had I might do the 272 coil swap and make it unlimited some day.
> Wish I had a 620 coil and carb for my ported 590 I think they would make good finishing touches to the work that was done.




Yeah i found it tough to tune the limited coil with out a tach. It was hard to hear the switch between the 4 stroke and the ignition cutting out. At least for me. I was curious how the 620 timing would effect a stock ported 590. Seems to work fine. I'm sure it would top off a port job though. They are kind of expensive though as you know.
If I could do it over I would have just bought the 620. I have spent the same amount on the 590 but it's still dosnt have the better porting of the 620. Oh well. Maybe I will give the 590 a go at porting..
I had a hard enough time getting my RA grinder in a 80.cc cylinder,how am I ever going to get it in a 60.cc cylinder?!


And then there is the carb on the 590.. has those crazy high and low bypass deals in it.. fix is plug hole in bottom of main jet to be able to fully tune it I believe for the stock carb.. its amazing that between the rev limiter and bypass in the carb that you can still cook these saws from what I've read. And seen in pictures of some of the used 590 cylinders of Ebay.. yikes!


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## Cliff R (Apr 16, 2019)

I've never seen the limited coil on the 590 as an issue, it's set well above where it runs in the cut. 

The horror stories about smoked P/C's are simply from folks who didn't take the time to remove the limited caps and custom tune them. The CS-590 more than the CS-600/620's are super lean right out of the box. Some are so lean they woln't even rev well until fully warmed up.

Echo needs to build a 70-75 cc saw on the CS-620 platform, they are missing a nice chunk of the market......IMHO......


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## James Miller (Apr 16, 2019)

Kcdub1000 said:


> Yeah i found it tough to tune the limited coil with out a tach. It was hard to hear the switch between the 4 stroke and the ignition cutting out. At least for me. I was curious how the 620 timing would effect a stock ported 590. Seems to work fine. I'm sure it would top off a port job though. They are kind of expensive though as you know.
> If I could do it over I would have just bought the 620. I have spent the same amount on the 590 but it's still dosnt have the better porting of the 620. Oh well. Maybe I will give the 590 a go at porting..
> I had a hard enough time getting my RA grinder in a 80.cc cylinder,how am I ever going to get it in a 60.cc cylinder?!
> 
> ...


If your against the limiter with a stock 590 or even muff modded your extremely lean. Stock most of them are happiest around 12k. The limiter is 13.5k. My ported 590 with a firewood tune will stay off the limiter and just tag it now and then setup to play at a gtg.


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## James Miller (Apr 16, 2019)

Cliff R said:


> I've never seen the limited coil on the 590 as an issue, it's set well above where it runs in the cut.
> 
> The horror stories about smoked P/C's are simply from folks who didn't take the time to remove the limited caps and custom tune them. The CS-590 more than the CS-600/620's are super lean right out of the box. Some are so lean they woln't even rev well until fully warmed up.
> 
> Echo needs to build a 70-75 cc saw on the CS-620 platform, they are missing a nice chunk of the market......IMHO......


Theres a new 70cc echo in real world testing now. Don't know if it's based on the 600 series case though.


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## Kcdub1000 (Apr 16, 2019)

Cliff R said:


> I've never seen the limited coil on the 590 as an issue, it's set well above where it runs in the cut.
> 
> The horror stories about smoked P/C's are simply from folks who didn't take the time to remove the limited caps and custom tune them. The CS-590 more than the CS-600/620's are super lean right out of the box. Some are so lean they woln't even rev well until fully warmed up.
> 
> Echo needs to build a 70-75 cc saw on the CS-620 platform, they are missing a nice chunk of the market......IMHO......




The limited coil is definitely not a issue. But tuneing by ear with out a tach. to know where I was I couldn't tell you if that was the ignition cutting or a 4 stroke.. both sound rich to me..so I eliminated that concern on mine..

According to my tach my 590 is free spinning up to around 10,000 rpm. If I can trust it.. I'm no where near 12,000. I Still have room to lean it out some..


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## Kcdub1000 (Apr 16, 2019)

James Miller said:


> If your against the limiter with a stock 590 or even muff modded your extremely lean. Stock most of them are happiest around 12k. The limiter is 13.5k. My ported 590 with a firewood tune will stay off the limiter and just tag it now and then setup to play at a gtg.





It's crazy after some port jobs guys couldn't get this carb to lean enough. Even closing the h screw off, were still calling it rich, from what the bypass would feed. If I recall I think I'm about 1 turn out or so on my h screw.. so plenty of adj left. I did remove the snorkel in the air cleaner and replaced with a spacer. and put 2 holes in rear of the cover for air flow so it didn't have to pull it from its elaborate path it had to travel to get there. Holes can be closed due to conditions (dust or water) 

I always try to error on the rich side of my tunes. Tuning saws is relitavly new to me, but been tweaking dirt bikes for some time. Always ran my bikes a little rich, still do.. if I was racing and rebuilding every weekend that's a diffrent story.


Isn't there a cs680 saw that is really close to 70.cc that comes with that awesome air cleaner? Or is that a older model? I think it's up in the cs800 price range though.


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## Cliff R (Apr 16, 2019)

The best method to tune the "H" speed screw is to start out noticeably rich. Not "blubbering" and barely running but 4-stroking easily when the load is removed. Start leaning it up and making cuts, removing the load about mid-way thru the cut to make sure it's 4-stroking. Keep leaning it up and continue making cuts until you obtain best cutting performance, but still 4-stroking when the load is removed. If you are unsure about going lean fatten it back up slightly and cutting performance should fall off slightly and 4-stroking easier when the load is removed. It's one of those thing you need to sneak up on, and ALWAYS er just a tad rich vs a tad lean.

The rev-limiter can be a little annoying as part of the final tune if it is set too low, which isn't really a problem with the CS-590's I've set-up here. The CS-360T is another story, the rev-limiter is set too low making it difficult to tell the difference between a correct "H" speed screw setting and being on the limiter. The CS-360T would be a much better saw without a limited coil.....IMHO........Cliff


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## Kcdub1000 (Jun 15, 2019)

Update on the carb. It took a while to recieve. I put the 63-1 carb on today. There are some small differances between the carbs but it worked. After about 20 min trying to restart my saw, I finally got it idling. Seems to run strong with the new carb. Planning on taking out the 800 and 590 tomorrow and do some buckin. Pge took down some trees at my parents house. 
I also ported the 590 and that is running really strong now! We shall see how the 800 pulls now.


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## The Singing Arborist (Jun 15, 2019)

Kcdub1000, Thanks for refreshing this thread and putting in your findings on the CS800. 

I ended up buying it late last year and have been impressed and not impressed with it at the same time. I found the same problems with the plug cover for the high/low settings for the carb. It's a real pain. I didn't install it right and ended up sucking way too much sawdust into the carb...ended up in the piston...and you bet, it blew that up. It was one of the best learning experiences though. I ordered a new piston and cylinder, and did my first engine rebuild. It runs great now.

Did you have to make any modifications to the new, larger carb to get it to fit? Also, now that you have some time after the port job, how do you think the saw reacted with that? I'm pretty interested in doing both of those to my saw.


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## Kcdub1000 (Jun 16, 2019)

You are welcome! I have had alot of fun building both of these saws.

That's a bummer about getting dust getting in your saw! Isn't that plug a horrible design!? I was fighting it again today. Such a pain to open and close. 

I did not have to modifie anything really. The only thing I did was put a small zip tie to the left of the throttle linkage to keep it from moving so much when you hit the gas. Every thing works, it's just not quite a smooth to operate the levers as the stock carb. The choke is either on or off. It dosnt have that half throttle position when you push the choke back in. So that's kind of a bummer.

So I ran the saw today. The log I was cutting was about 16 inches and green, Dougfur. So pretty soft. I did not get into the big logs yet. The saw sounds amaizing free spining. I still need to lean it up some. Going to wait for the big logs to do final tune. But I'll tell you all this. My 590 I'm pretty sure would smoke this 800 through that same log. Cutting with them back to back. The 590 is just plane mean now after the port job. But I changed timing and experaminted with the transfers on that saw. I did not change timing on the 800. But it got a good boost in compreshon. I did not get a lot of run time on the saw before I ported it though. It did seem to liven it up some. But overall i am not as impressed with it as i am the 590. The 590 really blew me away today.

I may have to dive back into the 800 later and mess with the timing. It dose seem to have plenty of torque though. The big logs will tell the full story. I will be sure to update when I get it fully tuned. I will try to get another video of it cutting.


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## The Singing Arborist (Jun 17, 2019)

I have found the same thing with my 590 and the 800. You can put the same bar and chain on both these saws and the 590 would win (with the 20" and 24" bars anyway). What's weird with the 800, is it cuts the same speed if it has a 20" or a 36" bar. It doesn't seem to care what you put on it, it's just going to go at its own pace, which is a reasonable pace. I'm usually impressed with the 800 when it has the big bar and unimpressed if it has a smaller one.


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## Cliff R (Jun 17, 2019)

I wasn't overly impressed with my CS-800 anyplace. It was just OK for cutting power and certainly didn't want or need to run at high RPM's.

I thought that removing a rubber plug to access the mixture screws was a little "odd" for a Pro saw, and it had an engine driven oiler vs clutch driven. It also didnt' use the round automotive style air filter like the CS-670's I owned at the same time. 

As much as I've come to like Echo power equipment I'd put $550 in a CS-620PW vs more money for a CS-800. I love everything about the CS-620PW, and hope Echo will be offering a larger 70-75cc version at some point based on the same chassis........FWIW......Cliff


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## Kcdub1000 (Jun 17, 2019)

Well even if it's not going to be hot rod i still think it is a really cool saw. If I didn't get a good deal on the saw and I had to pay for the port work I may have gone another route. 

I'm sure the 800 will do much better in the bigger logs. When it would clean up and not 4 stroke in the cut it seemed to have some real grunt. As long as it dosnt bog and holds a decent rpm I'll be happy.. it has the stock chain on it to. I Havnt touched it. I really do like the old school look of this saw. I wish they would up date the 800 with better designed parts. Like no more plug for carb adj. And maybe get rid of the mile of slack in the trigger before it dose any thing! Maybe a little more rpm in the cut. A couple other things to. But keep it looking the same. I would be interested in a 70cc as well. 

It looks like the OP saw turned out pretty mean. I wont be able to really tell with mine untell I get it fully tuned. I'm pretty sure I'm still rich on the top..it sounds pretty nasty when i reve it up though. I dont have a tach on it but it sounds really good. I guess if you know what you are doing you can make this saw run. I dont. But I gave it a go. But it seems to run stronger than stock and it's not fully tuned yet I believe.

So here is a question. Should my 800 be 4 stroking in a 16 in log? It only cleaned up when I really leaned on it. I didn't want to lean it out to much. And have it be to lean it the big logs. I was going to tune it in a bigger logs. Is that the way to go? Basically do you want to tune the carb with the biggest logs you are going to cut?


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## rmotoman (Jun 18, 2019)

For the 8000 run the raker down in the .4-.45 for the shorter bars. It will smoke the 590.


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## mountainlake (Jun 18, 2019)

rmotoman said:


> For the 8000 run the raker down in the .4-.45 for the shorter bars. It will smoke the 590.



You have that right, with a aggressive chain mine smokes my 044. Steve


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## The Singing Arborist (Jun 18, 2019)

I've tuned mine to go in the bigger logs. It's usually what I use it for anyway. If the log isn't bigger than 18", I'm not normally in the mood to lug that saw around to cut it.


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## Kcdub1000 (Jun 18, 2019)

rmotoman said:


> For the 8000 run the raker down in the .4-.45 for the shorter bars. It will smoke the 590.



I did adj the rakers on my 590 with my husky gauge for soft wood. So that gave a slight edge to the 590 even though the chips looked bigger from the 800. And the 800 has the 32 in bar and the 590 a 20. Again advantage to 590. Plus the 590 is tuned good. And the 800 was 4 stroking pretty bad unless leaned on pretty good. By the end I had leaned the 800 a total of a 1/4 turn. It ran much better than when I first got there but I think there is still more left in her. And that's a lot of rakers to file on that 800 chain! Haha. The next wood I'm cutting with the 800 is big, dry oak. So I dont want to take the rakers down just yet. Some of the rounds are to big for this bar to go strait through. So the whole bar will be buried in the wood, should be a good test. And I'm sure If i put the 32 in bar on the 590 and tried to cut the big oak it would not do as well as the 800. That's where the 20 extra cc should shine I would think.

I'm curious to see how my 800 stacks up against my dads old 100cc homelight 1020. That's what he has for the big logs. I think he has had that saw longer than I have bein alive. I know one thing that 1020 is loud.... he recently gave me his old promac 55 that is in killer shape. I love this saw! I love the old saws in general..no epa crap on them. And loud as hell. that old mac is a rever!




The Singing Arborist said:


> I've tuned mine to go in the bigger logs. It's usually what I use it for anyway. If the log isn't bigger than 18", I'm not normally in the mood to lug that saw around to cut it.




Yeah that is what I plan on using this thing for. Is the big stuff. After all that's what it was designed for rite! It's just to heavy to cut smalls with. Un less you want a arm and back workout. But it was fun to compare to the 590 side by side! 

On another note. When I have to start the 800 cold, I set the bar on a log I use my right hand to feather the gas, and my left hand pulling the cord. Since after you take the choke off it dosnt hold open the throttle for you any more with the 63-1carb. And it wont start unless you give it a little gas. So it's a little bit harder to start cold with this carb. At least for me. When its warm it's usually a one pull start.


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## Kcdub1000 (Jul 11, 2019)

I did a muffler mod on the 800 last week. Added duel 1/2 inch pipes. It sounds great and isn't to loud. It is louder however. Of course. But a good loud. I ran the top pipe halfway into the muffler. And the lower as far as it would go before it hit the sleeve for the muffler bolt. I did this to create a little back pressure.. it also keeps the muffler working as a muffler. The sound has to bounce around before it exits it's not a strait shot out. It flows exhaust much more free now. Seems to spin up a little faster. Sounds healthy. Looks decent to. It Dose not interfear with the chain break either.


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## Kcdub1000 (Jul 25, 2019)

I got a chance to run the 800 today before it got to hot. After 9:00 its to hot! I can say I am happy with how it cuts now. I think the bigger carb and more free flowing muffler helped alot. It revs up much quicker and holds a better rpm in the cut. I really like the sound of this saw now. I dont have a tach on it but it sounds healthier in the cut. I'm cutting a old oak butt in the video. There is a full video but this shows how it cuts.


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## The Singing Arborist (Jul 29, 2019)

Oh man, that did seem to do the trick. I'm definitely going to do the same to mine (when I get some time anyway). Huge thanks for posting the updates.


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## Kcdub1000 (Jul 30, 2019)

You are welcome. Yeah it seems better than it was. Unless it's all in my head. Haha. Now it would be fun to run it next to a stock one and see the difference. I know there is more left on the table. In the cylinder. Good luck with yours. I would like to know your results are the same.


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## eKretz (Aug 19, 2019)

Very cool. I just lucked into a CS-8000 a few days ago for under $100. Good compression, starts easily, came with the 27" bar. Mine is an early version and has the big HDA-45 carb. I've only cut a little with it but so far so good. Eventually I'll muffler mod and port it.


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## Kcdub1000 (Apr 1, 2020)

Well boredom got the best of me and I tore back into the old fashion cs800p. I wanted to bump up compreshion a little more. The last time i cut the base my dial indicator got bumped and I lost my progress. Turned out I did not achieve my goal of .020 squish. Since I was going back in I decided to do a pop up piston. I cut a 10° taper (tried to match factory angle) at .020 depth. 

I then re cut the base. This time I had to cut the flange that goes into the crank case as well. It was hitting there first, not letting the jug seat all the way down. Which lead to another trip back to the machine shop.

I now have .020 squish. Yayyy! Haha. Now I'm in the process of bringing my ports back up to factory. I'm deciding whether to stagger the transfers. I had a good out come with my 590 and I think I will try it with this jug. I will post new compression numbers and maybe a new video when she is back up and running. I am hoping for over 180psi I guess we shall see. 

Here are the old compression #s

Stock: 121 psi 3000ft elv. .051 squish
150 psi after 1st base cut. . 028 squish
155 psi after break in. 3000ft elv.


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## Kcdub1000 (Apr 6, 2020)

The saw is back together. And running. I havnt cut any thing yet. The weather is stormy. Snowed here last night. 

I'm a little disapointed in the amount the compreshion increased. I checked it after assembly. So it may go up a little when the rings re seat. Also I realize by moving the exhaust port back up to stock, you loose compreshion. So, had i left the EX port low i may have gotten very close to my goal. The compreshion is now 165psi. I will re check once I run the saw some. 

I did stagger the transfers like I did on my 590. So here is the how and why. What I do it is after I lower the jug I leave the exhaust side transfer there and I raise the intake side transfer back up. My theory is that the intake side transfer will open first causing a higher presure blast of air and fuel pointed towards the intake to flush the cylinder of exhaust gas. Followed by a lower presure blast of fuel and air from the exhaust side transfer maybe, causing less fuel loss out the exhaust port. I realize the time between them opening happen so fast I'm not even sure how effective this truly is. The good thing is you can always raise the exhaust side transfer up and you will be right back to normal operation of the transfers. 

So that's all I got. She is done. Hope she cuts! And I hope this info helps some one out. That's what it's all about. Sharing info. 



I will put up a final cutting video of the saw.


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## Kcdub1000 (Apr 10, 2020)

Here she is.


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## Dpm1985 (May 27, 2020)

Idahonative said:


> Have decided to start a thread dedicated to the Echo cs-800p since there is very little information out there on this saw. I also want to be able to add to the discussion without cluttering up someone else's thread. I was planning to run this saw with just a MM and tune but have changed my mind. I am cutting and pasting some posts into this thread to get it started:
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *Was planning on running it with just a MM and tune but have now changed my mind. The 800p is so new, there isn't much info out there on it. Yes, it's a revised cs8000 but it appears Echo has re-designed the top end. Reports on the 8000 are typical of Echo: TORQUEY, and will run close to the 90cc's with basic mods. The 800p should only be better.
> ...


I just had a major problem with the 800p. I bought one brand new owned it for 2 days took off the cover for the air cleaner thought I'd knock the dust off the filter when I pulled the filter I was shocked at what I saw. There was so much debris under the filter in the compartment with carburetor but it was freaking ridiculous enough to wear the shop that I bought it from the two days prior, well let's just say they rebuilt the whole damn thing. I was looking very very forward to this chainsaw was on my way to the Stihl shop when I called the Echo dealer and found somebody that had the 800p on the Shelf I turned around and started heading for that dealer I was really looking forward to that manual override for the oiler which it did what it was supposed to I liked it a lot. Two weeks the shop had my brand new saw for 2 days today I got a refund after the shop before giving me another new chainsaw off the shelf to replace mine figured they test it but it failed for the same reason there and their little test. So I'm here to say I love where Echo was going with it but they have some issues to iron out first watch it when they fix air filter issues I will recommend the soul and I will be getting one myself but unfortunately I have to go buy a still for now to get the job done. Until then I can't wait to get my echo.


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## Kcdub1000 (May 27, 2020)

*did your rubber plug for the carb adjustment fall off? I have never herd of that much wood getting behind the filter unless the plug was removed. That should really be the only way dust could bypass the filter. This saw has bein on the shelf for a very very long time. If this was a issue you should be seeing / reading it everywhere. Let every one know if you find the entrance from the dust. *


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## The Singing Arborist (May 30, 2020)

I had a similar issue with mine, a week into having my 800. It was my fault in my case though. I wasn't good enough about putting that rubber plug back into place just right. Since I rebuilt the top end (it got scratched up from all the dust that got in there), I have been more vigilant about getting that thing in place. I haven't had a problem since. I've had it for 2 years now.

I totally agree with you on that design. If you want to tune the saw, you need to take out that plug which opens up your saw to unfiltered air. Not good if you're into tuning your saw in a cut. It definitely should be changed.


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## LuDookie (Jul 30, 2020)

The Singing Arborist said:


> I had a similar issue with mine, a week into having my 800. It was my fault in my case though. I wasn't good enough about putting that rubber plug back into place just right. Since I rebuilt the top end (it got scratched up from all the dust that got in there), I have been more vigilant about getting that thing in place. I haven't had a problem since. I've had it for 2 years now.
> 
> I totally agree with you on that design. If you want to tune the saw, you need to take out that plug which opens up your saw to unfiltered air. Not good if you're into tuning your saw in a cut. It definitely should be changed.


I agree! The only reason that I haven't purchased this model is the filtration system. I'm quite in love with my 680, and other than the air filter design, the 800 is is just a larger, more powerful version. How hard would it be for them to put an automotive style filter and high top on that saw. I'd order it the second I saw it.


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## Stateline Sawer (Mar 5, 2021)

The Singing Arborist said:


> I had a similar issue with mine, a week into having my 800. It was my fault in my case though. I wasn't good enough about putting that rubber plug back into place just right. Since I rebuilt the top end (it got scratched up from all the dust that got in there), I have been more vigilant about getting that thing in place. I haven't had a problem since. I've had it for 2 years now.
> 
> I totally agree with you on that design. If you want to tune the saw, you need to take out that plug which opens up your saw to unfiltered air. Not good if you're into tuning your saw in a cut. It definitely should be changed.


Would you happen to know if cs8000 piston would work in a cs800p? They seem to be considerably cheaper but may have flat top and aren't domed.


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