# Best combo bar/chain for alaskan mill?



## SLIMw

I know ive seen this question more than once here but I cant find it. I have a 066 stihl, alaskan mill with a 32" bar. What is the best combonation of bar/chain to use with this mill. I have a .050 3/8 chain on there now and its about to work me and the poor saw to death.


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## PineFever

I started out the same way only with an 044 and 32'" bar with the 36" mill.
I switched to 10 degree ripping chain from bailey's and oh what a difference.
Here is a link
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=WP375+30RP&catID=11830

BTW Nice Pic


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## smokinj

If thats the length you need your good to go with the 3/8 .050


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## Frank Boyer

I just used some Bailey's ripping chain to make two 15' long redwood benches. That is 45' of cut through a 32" to 24" wide redwood log. Used a 084 with a 48" bar. It took a while, but the benches have a fairly smooth finish. I didn't have to sharpen the chain for the whole 45' of cut. red wood is very soft and the tree had been down for around 5 years.


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## BobL

SLIMw said:


> I know ive seen this question more than once here but I cant find it. I have a 066 stihl, alaskan mill with a 32" bar. What is the best combonation of bar/chain to use with this mill. I have a .050 3/8 chain on there now and its about to work me and the poor saw to death.



I don't understand why a 32" bar and 0.050 3/8 should be the cause of "working you and the saw to death". If you are finding milling hard work I think there are other problems with your setup other than the bar and chain

One thing I can see causing a bit of unnecessary effort on your current set up is the gap between the mill and the powerhead. This causes the powerhead to hang out in the breeze which, for a bigger saw like the the 066, will make the mill unbalanced. If possible I would bring the power head as close to the mill as possible. This will also reduce the distance you have to hold your arms apart while using the mill and reduced shoulder and arm pain. Its a lot easier on the operator if they can stand upright when milling but to do that requires something like a remote throttle closer to the mill so the operator does not have to hold their left hand out and down on the throttle. If you look in the Milling stick at post #12 you can see my stance and look at where my arms are - before that I used to get very sore arms and shoulder.

It could be that your mill is too short and you cannot bring the powerhead any closer. If so I would make or buy longer mill rails. Unless you are working in dense bush longer rails also help balance the mill.

With a saw like an 066 I reckon a longer bar (eg 36") and mill rails improve the balance of a mill even when milling quite narrow cants. I have 36, 30 and 25" bars to use with my bigger mill but I have never used them for milling - I mill everything from 40" down to about 20" in diameter with my bigger mill with a 42" bar and 54" rails, 54. For stuff less than 20" in diameter I use a 440 with a 25" bar but even though the 440 is a lighter saw it is not as well balanced as the bigger mill

Chain pitch/gauge is kinda personal - you have to try and see what works best for you.


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## hazard

I started out the same way but with a 044. My advice to you is add the auxillary oiler. I did not see any mention of this but might of missed it. It is the difference of day and night when I run out of oil in the extra tank. The chain seems to stop cutting and I am pushing harder.

On wood say 20" or wider I have gotten to the point of resharpening after every other cut in a 7' log.

Chris


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## betterbuilt

I was running brand new chain and found filling after every cut made a big difference. My production went from maybe 300 bft to around 700 bft from a simple filing. 

The oiler is a good Idea also. 

Another thing is the the bar. Mine was showing signs of wear and I wasn't sure of why. I found a thread showing what chain hammer was. I changed my sprocket and dressed my bar and made a new chain. That made a world of a difference. 

Another thing I learned from this site is my saw came with a 3/8-8 sprocket and switching to 3/8-7 made a big difference.

post some close ups of your setup. bar, chain and any wear your not sure about and I'm sure someone can help you sort out whats wrong.


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## lmbeachy

[
Another thing is the the bar. Mine was showing signs of wear and I wasn't sure of why. I found a thread showing what chain hammer was. I changed my sprocket and dressed my bar and made a new chain. That made a world of a difference. 


I can always learn something new, I have never heard of chain hammer, could you explain what that is. Lester


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## betterbuilt

I'm not the best person to go into what chain hammer is. I think it can be caused by the sprocket or from the bars sprocket getting to much wear. It shows up on the chain and the bar. I first noticed it when I had a chain tystrap on the chain break and I was wondering why that would happen. I'm sure someone has some to add to this.


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## SLIMw

Thanks for the info guys. I decided to buy a 28" bar and two new chains to close the gap between the mill and power head. I got on bailey's to see what size bar I need for 24" rails and it said a minimum of a 26" bar. When the bar finally came in today I got it on the mill and the clamps sit right on top of the nose ,even with the dawgs off. The bar is a roller tip and I normally keep the clamps away from the nose. I have the log sqared off to the maximum of the mill and I hate to cut it down any more. Im wondering if it will be ok to position the clamp right on top of the five studs in the middle of the nose? I really needed this lumber milled yesterday.


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## BobL

SLIMw said:


> Thanks for the info guys. I decided to buy a 28" bar and two new chains to close the gap between the mill and power head. I got on bailey's to see what size bar I need for 24" rails and it said a minimum of a 26" bar. When the bar finally came in today I got it on the mill and the clamps sit right on top of the nose ,even with the dawgs off. The bar is a roller tip and I normally keep the clamps away from the nose.



You should be able to move the outboard end of the mill inwards so the clamp grips on the bar before the nose? That's how most mills are designed and used.



> I have the log sqared off to the maximum of the mill and I hate to cut it down any more. Im wondering if it will be ok to position the clamp right on top of the five studs in the middle of the nose? I really needed this lumber milled yesterday.



One way around this is to not use the bottom half of the outboard clamp out and drill a hole through the middle of the nose and clamp and make a threaded hole in the top half of the clamp and bolt the bar to the mill. Mtngun will be along shortly to show you his set up. If you can do the same on the inboard side like this





If you do both sides you can take the chain off the saw without removing the saw from the mill.

My preference is to drill a 1/4" hole though the bar and insert a short "1/2" bolt through this hole - then drill shallow recesses into both the clamp bar pads into which this bolt can sit and clamp up moderately tightly.


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## mtngun

SLIMw said:


> Im wondering if it will be ok to position the clamp right on top of the five studs in the middle of the nose?


A pic would help, but you shouldn't clamp the rotating part of the nose (the sprocket). The clamp needs to stay away from the sprocket.

Many of us have replaced the clamps with a bolt-on system, as discussed on several other threads. The bolt goes through the center of the sprocket and buys you a couple inches of bar length.

Otherwise, you need longer mill rails.


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## Timberframed

Amigo...you need to make thicker slabs! Drop it down to at least 2.5" and get into the meat!


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## SLIMw

I am using the oak in the pic for sideing. I wont be planning or finishing im just gonna leave the rough edge on.


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## Timberframed

OOps! Never thought of that...carry on...


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## BobL

mtngun said:


> Otherwise, you need longer mill rails.



???

What's stopping him from just mounting is outboard end closer to the inboard side?


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## mtngun

BobL said:


> What's stopping him from just mounting is outboard end closer to the inboard side?


Then it wouldn't fit the log.

SLIMw, I don't understand why you bought a shorter bar. Yes, I know the 32" doesn't fit the 24" Alaskan well, but the solution is a bigger Alaskan.

I suggest you get 36" rails for your Alaskan and go back to the 32" bar.


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## BobL

mtngun said:


> Then it wouldn't fit the log.


DOH !



> SLIMw, I don't understand why you bought a shorter bar. Yes, I know the 32" doesn't fit the 24" Alaskan well, but the solution is a bigger Alaskan.
> 
> I suggest you get 36" rails for your Alaskan and go back to the 32" bar.


Yep - that's the best thing to do.


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## SLIMw

I appreciate everyone's patience and replys im sure my questions have been ask dozens of times by people that are starting milling. I decided to drill the 28" bar I have on the outboard and inboard side with a 1/4" drill bit as explained earlier to max out the mill I have now. 
The bit I bought was a dewalt self tapping bit for everything including metal, the best that Lowe's sales. It does not say on the package what the tip is made of. I stated drilling the nose with plenty of lube and before I got a small distance through the bit was toast. What kind of bit do yall use. I know I have read a post by bobL where he specified, but dang Ive read so many posts I cant find it.


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## betterbuilt

What did you use to drill the hole? a drill press or a hand drill


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## betterbuilt

You need a sharp bit. I usually start with a 1/8 and work my way up. You need to drill really slow 300-400 rpms. In a cordless drill set it on low gear and go slower. I'd use a drill press if you can borrow one for a few minutes. You can use cutting oil or even water to help keep the bit cool.

I sure everyone's gonna have their own preference on the type of bit. I have some old bits that I use to drill holes with. They aren't anything special. I find a drill press makes all difference. Take a break and give the bit some time to cool. That might help also.


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## mtngun

The only thing that has been able to drill the nose on my bars is carbide.

Use the lowest possible speed speed and lots of pressure. If it stops cutting and merely rubs, it'll work harden the steel and even carbide will have a tough time breaking through.

The main part of the bar is not as hard as the nose, and you can probably get by with a HSS drill there. Again, use a low speed and lots of pressure, don't let it merely rub.

Your partially drilled nose is probably work hardened now, so when you get your hands on a carbide drill, flip the nose over and drill from the other side.


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## betterbuilt

I just went out to the shop to drill two holes in a bar. I set the drill press up for 300 rpm's, with an cheap but new 1/8 in bit and drilled the first hole in about 45 seconds. The second hole using a cordless drill and the bit didn't touch the bar it started to walk around before it broke. 





I now make a revision find a drill press or buy a bunch of bits.


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## BobL

If the drill is skating I guess I should ask, did you use a centre punch to indent the bar? You will need a decent quality centre punch , those cheap chinese ones will just flatten out.

I use a brand new, decent quality Cobalt drill bit at 160 RPM, water soluble oil as a lube and a lot of firm pressure. A new bit can drill 3-4 bars before it needs attention.

If you only have a minimum of 300 rpm then a 1/8" bit will be a better way to start.

Tip: drill one side until the bit just breaks through - the drill from the other side or you will get a serious bur that needs to be removed.


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## betterbuilt

BobL said:


> If the drill is skating I guess I should ask, did you use a centre punch to indent the bar? You will need a decent quality centre punch , those cheap chinese ones will just flatten out.
> 
> I use a brand new, decent quality Cobalt drill bit at 160 RPM, water soluble oil as a lube and a lot of firm pressure. A new bit can drill 3-4 bars before it needs attention.
> 
> If you only have a minimum of 300 rpm then a 1/8" bit will be a better way to start.
> 
> Tip: drill one side until the bit just breaks through - the drill from the other side or you will get a serious bur that needs to be removed.



The original question was posted by SLIMw. I was only trying to show a cheap but sharp bit can drill a hole. Your right I didn't punch it, I should have in retrospect. I didn't use any lube on either hole.


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## betterbuilt

I went and punched it and drilled a second hole in the nose with another 1/8 inch bit with the drill in high and only running the drill in a intermittently. It drilled fine also. No lube.







Thanks for the tip BobL


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## mtngun

Ya, but the center of the nose is bearing material, harder than the surrounding bar. Best drilled with carbide.


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## betterbuilt

got Ya. I was afraid to drill in there on a good bar.


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## SLIMw

Well I finally got my mill runinng again! I guess I didnt give enough info to begin with, but the reason I went ahead and bought another bar is the 32" bar and one chain I had were about wore out. I had the bar as far in as I could get it without hitting the guard and still had too much of the powerhead hanging out on the other side. It seemed really flimsy. I got the 28" bar thinking it would be plenty enough for my 24" mill. Bailey's says a minimum of 26" bar ( im guessing the mean hard nose) because mine wouldn't fit. I bought a carbide bit and it ate right through the bar with no problems.



t 








I was able to pretty much max out the mill, only about 3/8" left. The wheels I added fit perfectly in the existing bolt holes.
I used a 1/4" drill bit and bolt for the bar and tapped the mill for fine thread 
(28) bolts 1" long. My only concerne is they might rattle out while milling, I guess ill find out tomorrow.


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## BobL

Looks good.



SLIMw said:


> (28) bolts 1" long. My only concerne is they might rattle out while milling, I guess ill find out tomorrow.



Did you use stiff spring washers?


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## SLIMw

Here are some pics of the rail I made about a year ago. It works pretty well but I will be gettin some unistrut. Mine is made from angle aluminum. I added the 4 metal dawgs in the middle to hold the rail. I used two 10' lengths sandwiched together on each side. It works pretty well. I put them so that the small skinny part of the angle is where the mill rides. I was thinking the smaller surface area on contact with the mill the less drag but it didnt quite turn out that way.


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## SLIMw

BobL said:


> Looks good.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you use stiff spring washers?



I will definitely be getting some.


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## mtngun

SLIMw said:


> I bought a carbide bit and it ate right through the bar with no problems.


Good job. 

I don't *think* your method will pinch the sprocket, but watch it closely for overheating, just in case. If the sprocket does appear to be rubbing, you may need to put a washer between the bar and the mill. 





Interesting guide rail. It looks rigid enough. I highly recommend 1/8" x 1" adhesive backed UHMW for your Alaskan rails to greatly reduce friction.


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## BobL

On my first set of 3/4 x 1.5" rails I had adjustable height steel dogs located about every 3ft along the length of the log rails but after running into them several times I gave up. What I'm eventually planning on doing is making a set of dogs out of 1/2" thick ally plate so it doesn't matter so much if I run into them. With my luck, if I make them out of steel I will run into them but if I make them out of ally I won't  



SLIMw said:


> I was thinking the smaller surface area on contact with the mill the less drag but it didnt quite turn out that way.



One of the best ways to reduce drag is to use HMWPE skids under the mill. Another trick is to apply a thin layer of liquid silicone car polish over both the log and mill rails. A miller I know keeps a rag impregnated with this polish and give both sets of rails a wipe over before starting. Something like beeswax might also work. I think it would be important to make sure there was a little as possible left on the rails otherwise it will pick up grit and sawdust.


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