# Hammer ?



## dancan (Feb 21, 2012)

I spend a fair amount of time reading , looking at pics , watching videos to understand how things apply and to improve the type of cutting that I do and have gathered a lot from this site (many thanks ! ).
I try not to dismiss other people's techniques and I can tell stupidity from practicality .
One thing I see a fair amount on UbOOb Tube is a fair amount of fallers/fellers/foresters/loggers/whateveryouwanttocallthem and hacks packing a hammer of some type to drive wedges in the woods , having spent a fair amount of time in the woods an axe is my preference . Is this a regional thing or am I just having a bout of OCD ?


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## forestryworks (Feb 21, 2012)

dancan said:


> I spend a fair amount of time reading , looking at pics , watching videos to understand how things apply and to improve the type of cutting that I do and have gathered a lot from this site (many thanks ! ).
> I try not to dismiss other people's techniques and I can tell stupidity from practicality .
> One thing I see a fair amount on UbOOb Tube is a fair amount of fallers/fellers/foresters/loggers/whateveryouwanttocallthem and hacks packing a hammer of some type to drive wedges in the woods , having spent a fair amount of time in the woods an axe is my preference . Is this a regional thing or am I just having a bout of OCD ?



At a minimum you should have an axe with a 3lb head.

Hammers are sissy in the woods and serve no practical use; they can't chop/clean out faces. They're better off on the landing for banging on yarder spools or something.


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## dancan (Feb 21, 2012)

forestryworks said:


> At a minimum you should have an axe with a 3lb head.
> 
> Hammers are sissy in the woods and serve no practical use; they can't chop/clean out faces. They're better off on the landing for banging on yarder spools or something.



That's what I was thinking , nothing related to carpentry when dropping trees .


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## Humptulips (Feb 21, 2012)

Hammers are lost on a faller. Better left to a rigging man who knows what to use them for.


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## Gologit (Feb 21, 2012)

If you were wedged up tight I don't think a carpenter's hammer would do the job. I can't remember ever seeing anybody I worked with use one for beating wedges. I like a five lb. axe and sometimes that doesn't seem like enough...especially if you've read one wrong and you're trying to correct your mistake with wedges.

Of course, theoretically, you should never have to really wail on your wedges. So I'm told, anyway.


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## slowp (Feb 21, 2012)

Humptulips said:


> Hammers are lost on a faller. Better left to a rigging man who knows what to use them for.



Please don't use it on foresters.:eek2:


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## Humptulips (Feb 21, 2012)

slowp said:


> Please don't use it on foresters.:eek2:



That is tempting at times but counterproductive in the long run.:biggrin:


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## madhatte (Feb 22, 2012)

An ax is a hammer you can chop with. Why not aim high?


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## Dayto (Feb 22, 2012)

Same thing as a westcoast faller , we run a Axe and Wedges (red heads) not Stihl wedges and husky oregon #### from the powersaw shop, we use axes wtf is a hammer good for! some short some long , some time even use hydraulic wedges.We call are selves fallers , not what the new eastcoast lingo is . We pride our selves on on a good clean Humboldt under cut , not 16 cuts boring the #### outta a stearing wheel size timber. 

Id love to watch these guys drive over a 6ft fir , swinging it up hill into the lay with a ####in eastwing hammer and stihl $4.95 wedges .


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## bobt (Feb 22, 2012)

No hammers. I usually carry a single bit axe. I am no pro, so please don't "hammer" on me,,,Haha!

Funny I guess, but one day last summer, I misplaced my usual axe, and grabbed a double bit axe to take with when cutting firewood.

I was thinning trees, when I tried to fall one tree that was close to another and had a limb or two that had grown into the crown of the other tree. It had a pretty good lean with all the heavy branches in right the direction. No problem. I tried to fall the tree. You guessed it,,,,no go.

So I hike back to the truck, gather up the double bit, and proceed to whack a wedge. I set the wedge, and made a good swing. Hit the wedge with the face of the axe, and crap! The handle snapped right at the head! No, I didn't hit the wedge with the handle. I felt like a fool!

Darn axe handles! 

Bob


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## hammerlogging (Feb 22, 2012)

I carry a 4lb axe with a 30 or 32" handle. Its awfully handy to have the axe part occasionally. Less than 4 I don't find will drive much when you really need it.


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## Samlock (Feb 22, 2012)

Ha! The Only Useful Hammer in the Woods Is Joe.


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## rwoods (Feb 22, 2012)

I guess I can quit prefacing my posts in the Forestry and Logging Forum with "I am not a logger" and say instead "I carry a hammer". I carry a 3# hand sledge hammer (aka a hand drilling hammer) basically because the short handle axes are too light for me to drive wedges with any authority and as a firewood hack I am never far from my truck which carries a backup saw and an axe. If you guys could direct me to a well balanced short handle (24" or less) axe with a 3 to 4# head, I would gladly leave the hammer in the truck although I still won't qualify as a logger. Ron


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## forestryworks (Feb 22, 2012)

rwoods said:


> I guess I can quit prefacing my posts in the Forestry and Logging Forum with "I am not a logger" and say instead "I carry a hammer". I carry a 3# hand sledge hammer (aka a hand drilling hammer) basically because the short handle axes are too light for me to drive wedges with any authority and as a firewood hack I am never far from my truck which carries a backup saw and an axe. If you guys could direct me to a well balanced short handle (24" or less) axe with a 3 to 4# head, I would gladly leave the hammer in the truck although I still won't qualify as a logger. Ron



Council Tool axe is the best money can buy these days. 

I have a 20" handle with a 3lb head from them.


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## mdavlee (Feb 22, 2012)

Madsens catalog will give you an idea what's available from council Ron. I've been meaning to pick up a 5 lb one myself. I've got a 3.5 lb on a 28" handle and it works pretty good.


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## Gologit (Feb 22, 2012)

And in the meantime, seeing as how it's you, go ahead and use your sledge. We won't tell anybody.


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## madhatte (Feb 22, 2012)

I just put a 4-lb head on a 28" boy's axe handle. Handy enough to carry, heavy enough to pound wedges! It's an old Plumb.


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## lfnh (Feb 22, 2012)

Personal favorite.
Kinda go/no go test, if you will

Suppose it could double up as a wedge in a pinch.


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## palogger390 (Feb 22, 2012)

rwoods said:


> I guess I can quit prefacing my posts in the Forestry and Logging Forum with "I am not a logger" and say instead "I carry a hammer". I carry a 3# hand sledge hammer (aka a hand drilling hammer) basically because the short handle axes are too light for me to drive wedges with any authority and as a firewood hack I am never far from my truck which carries a backup saw and an axe. If you guys could direct me to a well balanced short handle (24" or less) axe with a 3 to 4# head, I would gladly leave the hammer in the truck although I still won't qualify as a logger. Ron



I use a stihl splitting axe. Its about 3# and 20". It has a really heavy handle and a wide head. It seems to put trees on the ground all day and short enough to carry on a belt. . I think they are little pricey, but worth it in the long run.


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## chucker (Feb 22, 2012)

madhatte said:


> I just put a 4-lb head on a 28" boy's axe handle. Handy enough to carry, heavy enough to pound wedges! It's an old Plumb.



i have not seen a plumb forest product for years!! so is their trade mark still red and strong as a pi$$ed of ox ?? really only seen them sold on the "best coast"..... just wondering!


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## slowp (Feb 22, 2012)

I still have my broken aluminum baseball bat.


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## rwoods (Feb 22, 2012)

forestryworks said:


> Council Tool axe is the best money can buy these days.
> 
> I have a 20" handle with a 3lb head from them.





mdavlee said:


> Madsens catalog will give you an idea what's available from council Ron. I've been meaning to pick up a 5 lb one myself. I've got a 3.5 lb on a 28" handle and it works pretty good.



Thanks, guys. I'll check into it.



slowp said:


> I still have my broken aluminum baseball bat.



Is that for driving wedges, or taking care of those pesty squirrels that come after you when you fall a tree with them in it? :msp_unsure: Ron


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## hammerlogging (Feb 22, 2012)

Samlock said:


> Ha! The Only Useful Hammer in the Woods Is Joe.



Jo mamma


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## madhatte (Feb 22, 2012)

chucker said:


> i have not seen a plumb forest product for years!! so is their trade mark still red and strong as a pi$$ed of ox ?? really only seen them sold on the "best coast"..... just wondering!



It's WWII era and is marked with the "Anchor" stamp. I buy old axes whenever I find 'em; this is one of my favorites. It's a "Jeep Ax", as seen below:







I do have a proper 36" fawn's-foot handle I could hang it on but since I actually use it, I have it on the 28" instead.


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## Oldtimer (Feb 22, 2012)

Don't even own such a hand tool..save for the 6 lb splitting axe I have somewhere in the back of the shed. 
My wedge is yellow and weighs about 28,000 pounds..requires no hammer save the hammer-head driving it.
Before this one, it was Green, and had a 40,000 pound line pull wedge.


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## dancan (Feb 23, 2012)

Oldtimer said:


> Don't even own such a hand tool..save for the 6 lb splitting axe I have somewhere in the back of the shed.
> My wedge is yellow and weighs about 28,000 pounds..requires no hammer save the hammer-head driving it.
> Before this one, it was Green, and had a 40,000 pound line pull wedge.



Showoff ! LOL


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## imagineero (Feb 23, 2012)

When I was working in the woods I carried a gransfors forest axe and loved it. We were only doing smaller trees so I never really used the axe part much but it was handy when you needed it. 

Now I do residential trees and climb. You're never far from the truck with a whole bunch of saws, rigging, machinery etc so you can affo rd to have more specialised tools. I carry a 6' heavy duty demolition bar which is great for smashing out bricks/concrete when stump grinding and doubles as a log roller and log splitter, as well as being used as a lever in the back cut occasionally. I still have a couple nice axes in the truck, but I also carry a 4lb hammer and use it a lot. It's filled with lead shot so it doesn't bounce when you hit the wedge, and has a plastic face which doesnt mushroom wedges. The ballance is nicer than an axe and on big trees when I'm climbing and topping out large heads I can clip it to my belt to wedge if needed. 

If i had to pick one I'd take the axe, but a hammer can be nice too especially if lead shot filled. 

Shaun


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## branchbuzzer (Feb 23, 2012)

I use one of these, let's me get rid of unsafe co-workers fast.


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## palogger390 (Feb 23, 2012)

Oldtimer said:


> Don't even own such a hand tool..save for the 6 lb splitting axe I have somewhere in the back of the shed.
> My wedge is yellow and weighs about 28,000 pounds..requires no hammer save the hammer-head driving it.
> Before this one, it was Green, and had a 40,000 pound line pull wedge.



I have a couple of wedges like that only they're green and I call them "power wedges". I also have red 68,000lb wedge, but that is cheating.:hmm3grin2orange:


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## lumberjack48 (Feb 23, 2012)

Fell timber 30 yrs, never own a wedge, used a push pole once in awhile.


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## Gologit (Feb 23, 2012)

lumberjack48 said:


> Fell timber 30 yrs, never own a wedge, used a push pole once in awhile.



I wouldn't own one either if I didn't have to . 

Look at all the trouble and money you saved...no trips to town for wedges, no lost wedges, no wedges spitting out of the back cut and smacking you in the shins, no evenings spent dressing wedge edges. Just right.


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## Johny Utah (Feb 23, 2012)

Dayto said:


> Same thing as a westcoast faller , we run a Axe and Wedges (red heads) not Stihl wedges and husky oregon #### from the powersaw shop, we use axes wtf is a hammer good for! some short some long , some time even use hydraulic wedges.We call are selves fallers , not what the new eastcoast lingo is . We pride our selves on on a good clean Humboldt under cut , not 16 cuts boring the #### outta a stearing wheel size timber.
> 
> Id love to watch these guys drive over a 6ft fir , swinging it up hill into the lay with a ####in eastwing hammer and stihl $4.95 wedges .




What would you recommend for good wedges that don't mushroom when you hit them for guys like me that cut for firewood? Yes the Stihl wedges suck I use those now, but I guess they aren't gonna work good if I keep cutting them with the saw while using them.:bang::bang:


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## Gologit (Feb 23, 2012)

Johny Utah said:


> What would you recommend for good wedges that don't mushroom when you hit them for guys like me that cut for firewood? Yes the Stihl wedges suck I use those now, but I guess they aren't gonna work good if I keep cutting them with the saw while using them.:bang::bang:



The only wedge that really resists mushrooming is the Hardhead wedge that Bailey's sells. They're pricey but if you're beating on your wedges to the point where the heads are mushroomed maybe they're what you need. If you're all sawed up and wedged up tight and the wedges are stalled out a Hardhead will take the punishment. For awhile. Look for cracks in the body of the wedge after you've really been wailing on it.

My favorite is the red headed K and H, also from Baileys. Nice balance between sturdy, ease of driving, stacking, lift...and price.

If your wedge head isn't mushroomed too badly, just run it across a bandsaw and cut a new top. Look for cracks...if you see any...throw the wedge away. Now.

On the sharp end, you can dress saw rash down with a wood rasp, a horseshoer's file, or your wife's cheese grater. Don't get caught with the cheese grater.


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## Dayto (Feb 23, 2012)

Yup just like Gologit said ,
KnH are by far the industry standerd out here , as well as the odd yellow 12" Double tapper wedges . Just use the wedge for what its desighned for falling/bucking . Not Splitting wood and cedar rails lol youll go through alot if thats the case. And as mentioned before dress your wedges when they get ruff clean the burs and check for cracks ,as handy as wedges/wedging is they sure can be dangerous little basterds as well lol.

Ne ways Happy wedging.


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## forestryworks (Feb 23, 2012)

Johny Utah said:


> What would you recommend for good wedges that don't mushroom when you hit them for guys like me that cut for firewood? Yes the Stihl wedges suck I use those now, but I guess they aren't gonna work good if I keep cutting them with the saw while using them.:bang::bang:



Don't use housebrand wedges. 

And hit them square!

Make sure the poll on your axe is good, clean edges, no burrs, and square! Everything on the stump needs to be square!


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## Johny Utah (Feb 23, 2012)

Thanks for the tips on wedges guys. Much appreciated.:msp_thumbup:


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## imagineero (Feb 24, 2012)

Gologit said:


> If your wedge head isn't mushroomed too badly, just run it across a bandsaw and cut a new top. Look for cracks...if you see any...throw the wedge away. Now.



You can turn a crappy old wedge into an angled wedge for splitting out large face cuts. Take your crappy wedge, dress it up as nice as you can, then cut the sharp end at a 45 degree angle. You can then drive it into face cuts vertically to split the pie in half. Works good on face cuts that are too big to be made in one pass. Don't much matter if the wedge goes to pieces, and you wont accidentally use it for normal wedging with that 45 degree cut on the sharp end. 

Shaun


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## funky sawman (Mar 3, 2012)

If I know Im headed for a patch of timber that for instance, is an edge of a yarder strip and the trees are leaning over the creek, I bring a 8 lb splitting maul with me, less pounding that way. NO way would I EVER use a hammer for tripping trees. Use the proper tool for the job. NO, dont use a skil jig saw to fell your tamerack whips:msp_biggrin:


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