# Tree identification? pictures.



## Ghillie (Apr 6, 2009)

Who can tell me what this tree is? Or point me in the right direction.

It blooms white flowers in spring and clusters of berries in fall.


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## Tree Pig (Apr 6, 2009)

purely a wild guess but 

Juneberry?


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## Ed Roland (Apr 6, 2009)

Looks like a crabapple.


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## TreePointer (Apr 6, 2009)

On first glance, it looks like a *crabapple*. Flower color can vary as can size of fruit. I have a big one like the one pictured and it produces white flowers and 1-2" apples.

There is also the confusing hawthorn group that often has fruit that looks like berries/cherries more than miniature apples, but your tree looks like a crabapple to me.


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## ATH (Apr 6, 2009)

TreePointer said:


> ....your tree looks like a crabapple to me.


Me too.

I'll also add, if you took that picture this weekend, that makes crab even more likely as they are leafed-out more than hawthorn.


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## limbwalker54 (Apr 6, 2009)

At first glance I am thinking crabapple as well. _Malus baccata_ perhaps. What color are the fruits?


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## Tree Pig (Apr 6, 2009)

limbwalker54 said:


> At first glance I am thinking crabapple as well. _Malus baccata_ perhaps. What color are the fruits?



I think limwalker could have it with Malus baccata (siberian crabapple) 

http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=MABA

I was thinking crabapple too but describing a red berry made me think it could be something else. At least around here crabapple produce a fruit closer to the size of nickle (green and red) not really what I would call a berry. But then again I am not a plethora of knowledge when it comes to Identifying less common trees


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## MonkeyMan_812 (Apr 6, 2009)

I was going to guess crabapple too.


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## pdqdl (Apr 6, 2009)

Check out snowdrift crabapple. They are one of the most popular white varieties, and the size and shape are right for that picture. I've planted lots of them.

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ST395

If the flowers (and fruit!) are divided into five parts, you will have something in the apple (Rosacea) family. Close examination of the flower and other parts will nail it down.

Pistil or ovary 1 in each flower: it's a prunus
Thorns present: Craetegus (Hawthorn)
Ovary 2-5 cells, fruit 2-5 celled, each carpel 1 or 2 seeds, Stamens 15-50: Pyrus (Pears, crabapples, apples)

Most crabapples are pink-red. I'll bet it's a snowdrift.

There are LOTS of other white crabapples:

Scientific Name Common Name Height (ft.) Zone
Malus 'Amberina' flowering crabapple 7-10 4-8
Malus 'Amerspirzam' AMERICAN SPIRIT crabapple 15-18 4-8
Malus 'Beverly' flowering crabapple 15-25 4-8
Malus 'Callaway' crabapple 15-25 5-8
Malus 'Camzam' CAMELOT flowering crabapple 8-10 4-8
Malus 'Donald Wyman' flowering crabapple 15-20 4-8
Malus floribunda Japanese crabapple 15-20 4-8
Malus 'Hozam' HOLIDAY GOLD flowering crabapple 15-18 5-8
Malus 'Jewelberry' flowering crabapple 7-8 4-8
Malus 'Katherine' flowering crabapple 15-20 4-8
Malus sargentii 'Tina' Sargent crabapple 2-4 4-8
Malus x scheideckeri 'Red Jade' weeping crabapple 12-15 4-8
Malus 'Snowdrift' flowering crabapple 15-20 4-8
Malus 'Sutyzam' SUGAR TYME flowering crabapple 14-18 4-8
Malus x zumi var. calocarpa redbud crabapple 12-20 4-8


I hope this is helpful.


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## Ghillie (Apr 6, 2009)

pdqdl said:


> Check out snowdrift crabapple. They are one of the most popular white varieties, and the size and shape are right for that picture. I've planted lots of them.
> 
> http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ST395 ................



The homeowner is here with me and he thinks you are right.

I will be going back and looking at it again when it leafs out. I trimmed it out this weekend. It has been neglected for a few years and had a lot of suckers, dead branches and crossing limbs.

Is there anything you need to look for when working on this particular variety?

(this arborist 101, right?)


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## Ghillie (Apr 6, 2009)

We were looking through a tree guide trying to nail down a variety of crabapple by what he remembered the leaf looking like.

Here is a picture of after the trim. Any criticism/advice/critique is welcomed.


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## pdqdl (Apr 6, 2009)

Yes. 

Bring your new Fiskars hand saw, 'cause that tree will have a zillion little suckers all over it.

It will work faster and easier than a chainsaw in those tight quarters. They have thin bark, and it is very easy to make big gouges with a chainsaw. Nope, that won't hurt the tree, but it will probably grow more suckers everywhere you scratch it.

You might ask the owner if it is inclined to dropping all the leaves in the summer time. Nearly all the crabapples are suceptible to _cedar-apple rust_, and there are preventative sprays that are helpful for that. I never sell that service, because it doesn't really hurt the tree, it just makes them uglier. The treatments need to be done NOW, and probably cost more than it is worth. 

Another problem is apple scab, but it is less prevalent in our area. Both cause defoliation, but only after it is too late to treat.

Preventative: rake up all the fallen leaves before the spring rains...Ooops. Probably too late.


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## Ghillie (Apr 6, 2009)

pdqdl said:


> Yes.
> 
> Bring your new Fiskars hand saw, 'cause that tree will have a zillion little suckers all over it.
> 
> ...



Owner says no defoliation problems. And the handsaw worked great!!!

BTW, I ordered a Sugoi today, couldn't beat the price! I guess I will be able to do a comparison.


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## pdqdl (Apr 6, 2009)

Impatiens flowers do well beneath those trees.

I got an award for most improved landscape for one of my industrial customers, mostly based on the Impatiens we planted at the base of the tree.

The birds were pooping and nesting all over the trees, and the flowers got lots of natural fertilizer. Dense canopy of the tree helps protect the flowers from too much sun.


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## Adkpk (Apr 7, 2009)

Looks good from here.


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## S Mc (Apr 7, 2009)

Ghillie, I think you left a lovely tree for the homeowner to thoroughly enjoy. 

Malus sp sucker at the drop of a hat, so yes, there will probably be some to tidy up next year. But without taking other major limbs off, the tree will stabilize again and those will become less of an issue over time. It is extremely difficult to come in on a tree that has been neglected for a long time and NOT take too much off, as invariably larger wood needs to be removed. 

I like my Zubat for ornamental trimming. It is sharp and aggressive but is finer toothed for these delicate-barked trees. David likes his Sugoi for the larger, tougher limbs.

Raking leaf litter in high risk fungal environments is common practice and good information to share with the client, but as this looks like a tended lawn area where organic material is swept up rather than left, it may be a moot point. 

I personally would like to see a larger mulch ring around the tree that would allow organic material to decompose and provide a replenishing nutrient base. A larger mulch ring would also allow the addition of understory plantings, if this is desired, without the danger of keeping the root collar too wet, as can happen when flowers are planted in too close a proximity in a small area.

Sylvia


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## ATH (Apr 8, 2009)

pdqdl said:


> .........You might ask the owner if it is inclined to dropping all the leaves in the summer time. Nearly all the crabapples are suceptible to _cedar-apple rust_, and there are preventative sprays that are helpful for that. I never sell that service, because it doesn't really hurt the tree, it just makes them uglier. The treatments need to be done NOW, and probably cost more than it is worth.
> 
> Another problem is apple scab, but it is less prevalent in our area. Both cause defoliation, but only after it is too late to treat.
> 
> Preventative: rake up all the fallen leaves before the spring rains...Ooops. Probably too late.


I am just north of Ghillie (I'm in NW Ohio), and apple scab is a bigger problem for leaf drop around here. We have enogh cedar-apple rust, but scab is worse. It doesn't sound like it is a problem. If you find crabs that do have a problem, you might consider treating preventatively every year just at petal drop. pdqdl is correct that you can't spray when you see the problem (well..you can, but it won't work). If the tree had scab for the last 6 years, guess what it will do this year if the weather is right. While a defoliation here and there isn't harmful, I have see plenty of crabapple trees hurthing because of several major scab-induced defoliations back-to-back.

Tree looks good from here Ghille.


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## Ghillie (Apr 8, 2009)

Thanks to everyone for the help with the ID, the tips on taking care of the species and the good reviews on the job.

I am always looking to better myself and the services I provide.

The customer is happy with the job I did and it is going to be good advertisement in his neighborhood too.


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