# Felling a Windblown Hung up tree



## Tyler Vosters (Oct 26, 2020)

Looking for advice on taking this ash down as I do not have a ton of experience with leaners or trees under tension. You can see the crack up the middle so a barber chair is my main concern. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.


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## Westboastfaller (Oct 26, 2020)

60° off the lean to the pond side.
Should spin and flop out of the trees..
This way you have mitigated the lean/crack opposed to falling with the lean.


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## northmanlogging (Oct 26, 2020)

yup, sideways into the pond


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## catbuster (Oct 26, 2020)

Face it offset of the lean, let it spin off the stump. Get the hell out of the way when it goes.


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## woodfarmer (Oct 26, 2020)

Perpendicular the crack. You may want to cable it above your cut just to be on the safe side if you’re nervous. Before anyone jumps in and tells you to bore cut it I’ll just say that I had two ash trees back to back the other day that both sat down on my bar when boring. One I was able to cut the saw out, the second one did not go so well. I think I’ll stick to cutting from the back from now on.


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## rabbit box (Oct 26, 2020)

Put a grade 43 farmers chain above your cut and tightening with chain binder or four inch ratchet strap before you start and carry out your plan. Are you limited in the direction of your fall?


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## Tyler Vosters (Oct 27, 2020)

Thanks for the replies! I am not limited at all in which direction it falls. There is another fork in the tree it's hung up in a ways down so I will remove that first but then it a pretty clear drop. I love the chain/ strap idea above my cut. I'll do that for sure.
I'm sorry, but can you explain "60° off the lean to the pond side"? Keep in mind I am a newbie here what cuts should I make in the tree? Standard notch and back cut?


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## Brad Krause (Oct 27, 2020)

After chaining above the planned cut area, what about putting a series of shallow kerf cuts in the front (compression side) over a 1-foot span to reduce compression, and repeating until the compression is off the front half the split.

Then take a 9-inches or so section out of the front, followed by using that gap to put a series of kerf cuts in the front (compression side) of the back half of the split over a 4-inch span at the bottom of the 9-inch opening to reduce some torque compression, reducing the risk of a barber chair. Then cut the back wood level with the bottom of the 9-inch section with the goal of it staying on the stump, reducing the situation to being a windfall with a split.

Cut a 15-degree downward slope in the stump on what was the tension side. Attach the existing chain to a truck (or tractor) and pull it off the stump with the goal of dropping the whole tree to the floor.

The 9-inch and 4-inch sections create a wedge to promote the slide of the stump, and the stump has a downward ramp cut into it, so once the tree starts sliding it will hopefully pull out of the other trees with enough speed and force when pulling (pull and don't slack the chain). Obviously, one would make and clean up the cuts with the goal of a smooth pull.

(and use a long bar to maximize distance between you and the tree)


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## northmanlogging (Oct 27, 2020)

Brad Krause said:


> After chaining above the planned cut area, what about putting a series of shallow kerf cuts in the front (compression side) over a 1-foot span to reduce compression, and repeating until the compression is off the front half the split.
> 
> Then take a 9-inches or so section out of the front, followed by using that gap to put a series of kerf cuts in the front (compression side) of the back half of the split over a 4-inch span at the bottom of the 9-inch opening to reduce some torque compression, reducing the risk of a barber chair. Then cut the back wood level with the bottom of the 9-inch section with the goal of it staying on the stump, reducing the situation to being a windfall with a split.
> 
> ...


Don't do any of this


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## northmanlogging (Oct 27, 2020)

Tyler Vosters said:


> Thanks for the replies! I am not limited at all in which direction it falls. There is another fork in the tree it's hung up in a ways down so I will remove that first but then it a pretty clear drop. I love the chain/ strap idea above my cut. I'll do that for sure.
> I'm sorry, but can you explain "60° off the lean to the pond side"? Keep in mind I am a newbie here what cuts should I make in the tree? Standard notch and back cut?


Put the face in on the pond side, not quite 90 deg but better then 45 deg from the angle of its lean. that way your back cut is in the split side. Also there are more trees on the other side that it could be hung up in so towards the pond is the clearest route.

As for chains, straps, binding etc. I'm personally not convinced of their usefulness, and in my opinion they just add more projectiles and stuff to dull a saw with, and more time on the stump.

a shallow face cut towards the pond side, and a big fast sharp saw and blast through the back cut, call it a day in 3 minutes. maybe if your real scareded, bore the back cut and leave a strap across both sides of the split, get a head start and let er rip. Leave some hold wood... (cause hold wood matters)


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## woodfarmer (Oct 27, 2020)

I can tell you what not to do. Got the saw pinched bore cutting. So as I cut it out I reached around to grab the Stihl and the damn tree was headed the wrong direction, hit another tree and came right back at me. Just clipped my leg and spun me around, a bruise is all, got lucky.


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## rwoods (Oct 27, 2020)

WF, I take it that the suspended tree (butt facing the viewer) was cut after the tree that bit your saw. Ron


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## woodfarmer (Oct 27, 2020)

It happened two times in a row....I quit bore cutting. I put the pictures in the wrong order.


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## woodfarmer (Oct 27, 2020)

Don’t mean to highjack the OP’s post. Just showing what can happen. Here’s a Beech and a couple more ash from this morning


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## Tyler Vosters (Oct 28, 2020)

northmanlogging said:


> Put the face in on the pond side, not quite 90 deg but better then 45 deg from the angle of its lean. that way your back cut is in the split side. Also there are more trees on the other side that it could be hung up in so towards the pond is the clearest route.
> 
> As for chains, straps, binding etc. I'm personally not convinced of their usefulness, and in my opinion they just add more projectiles and stuff to dull a saw with, and more time on the stump.
> 
> a shallow face cut towards the pond side, and a big fast sharp saw and blast through the back cut, call it a day in 3 minutes. maybe if your real scareded, bore the back cut and leave a strap across both sides of the split, get a head start and let er rip. Leave some hold wood... (cause hold wood matters)


I apologise as I don't know all the terms you guys are throwing around. Using the attached sketch are you saying to do a standard notch on the pond side and then back cut as if it were a standard tree? I do appreciate the input.


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## northmanlogging (Oct 28, 2020)

Tyler Vosters said:


> View attachment 864307
> 
> 
> I apologise as I don't know all the terms you guys are throwing around. Using the attached sketch are you saying to do a standard notch on the pond side and then back cut as if it were a standard tree? I do appreciate the input.


 well with your sketch it looks like it would be better to go away from the pond, but in a nutshell yes, direct the tree sideways from the lean.

face cut=aiming cut, open wedge thingy, back cut=cut that releases it to fall, hold wood/hinge wood=the little bit in the middle that directs the stem..


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## Tyler Vosters (Oct 28, 2020)

Thanks! Which of these would you recommend? Should it be perfectly perpendicular to the crack? Should I do a standard back cut coming straight in opposite the notch or come in at an angle as to make a hinge that would be more triangle shaped than rectangle shaped if that makes sense?


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## northmanlogging (Oct 28, 2020)

Tyler Vosters said:


> Thanks! Which of these would you recommend? Should it be perfectly perpendicular to the crack? Should I do a standard back cut coming straight in opposite the notch or come in at an angle as to make a hinge that would be more triangle shaped than rectangle shaped if that makes sense?


the slightly angled one. and yeah a triangle shaped hinge wood will help, keep it fat on the tension side, the narrow bit towards the lean. Don't be under that thing while cutting BTW. Remember to run away preferably screaming like a little gurl too. (that part is important, the screaming lets anyone in the area know you just did something probably dangerous, and survived...)


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## Bwildered (Oct 29, 2020)

woodfarmer said:


> I can tell you what not to do. Got the saw pinched bore cutting. So as I cut it out I reached around to grab the Stihl and the damn tree was headed the wrong direction, hit another tree and came right back at me. Just clipped my leg and spun me around, a bruise is all, got lucky.View attachment 864171
> View attachment 864172


I'm starting to think you should take some chainsaw lessons from a pro, if that saw was pinched bore cutting , it was from cutting the hinge away, you are getting close to being clobbered big time.


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## woodfarmer (Oct 29, 2020)

Bwildered said:


> I'm starting to think you should take some chainsaw lessons from a pro, if that saw was pinched bore cutting , it was from cutting the hinge away, you are getting close to being clobbered big tim


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## woodfarmer (Oct 29, 2020)

I’ve cut hundreds of ash in the last few years and never had this happen. A little complacency maybe. I’ve never been a huge fan of bore cutting as never felt it was necessary and now I know why. You can see in the ash with the butt facing the picture the hinge is not cut through. The last one I did, i went higher on the back cut than maybe necessary but wasn’t going to have that happen again


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## Westboastfaller (Oct 29, 2020)

Tyler Vosters said:


> Thanks! Which of these would you recommend? Should it be perfectly perpendicular to the crack? Should I do a standard back cut coming straight in opposite the notch or come in at an angle as to make a hinge that would be more triangle shaped than rectangle shaped if that makes sense?


Let's get orientated here with some explanations. The tension is at 180° opposite the lean. The crack looks to be at 90° (which makes sense) that's the direction it is prone to splitting even if it didn't have a split
So by moving the undercut off the lean then the tension is where the top of hinge is now.
When cutting the tree the top of the hinge is now the high side. Opposite the direction of fall is the safe side. It is the only spot you should be working from. So with this there is no need for a triangle back cut or a bore cut.
You have a very high chance of getting the saw pinched in the bore cut or finishing out the cut.
__________
My concern is the condition of the roots behind the split? Looks like the tree is dead from looking at the lifting bark at the front
You get oxegen exchange from the open crack which invites rot I wouldn't work from the tension back side nor does it make working under the front a great option Don't even think about the pond side.
If you go 90° off the lean (as it looks to be what you pencilled in in your second illustration) you only have one safe side that you can work from with this unstable tree.
The whole tree will have to be cut with your tip so you want it to self feed. Set the undercut too far and you are doing a blind undercut through pinch points reaching in from the safe side unless you crawl under the front.
Also if you move the undercut too far to the side then you put to much tension on the top of hinge and sometimes tear out the back of the tree or you lose the natural swing and break the holding wood. Very well may happen anway with Ash. Probably as soon as it starts going it will rip off like a bandage to the lean direction. Which is fine.
You can do that as an option anyway once you cut the back cut then just thin the top some more and let it peel off with the lean.
--------------
Undercut/Cut height?
Pros 'N' cons
A danger tree is usually at a comfortable waist height. Often you can get above the rot as well you are a smaller target standing erect and looking up,,also you are in the best position to exit
In this case there is nothing overhead unless the back roots pull out and go into a barber chair.
Another point concerning this tree is the compession is greatest at the bend. (Pinch concern)
-Fibires are also strongest at the bottom if rot is not present
Generally speaking, if you do get pinched or need to redirect the tree then you have room to do that without working too high.
- if you need to slice a tree off the stump then that is much safer lower to the ground.
Things for us all to consider.
-------------
I would take a knee and get below the bend
Go at least greater than 45° to the pond side by reaching under. The more you can offset the U/C then the less you are taking out of the bottom (pinch point) 45 will mitigate the barber chair potential.
Slowly take the low side of the undercut out up to the split
Do the flat cut and hack out the angle cut as you inch in or inch in by alternating two saw kerfs wide. Just a chicken §hit little U/C is good enough. If it starts pinching instantly then chop the bottom in with an axe and clean it up with the saw
Now cut the top of the undercut in with the saw slowly. The lower part of the back split section may be compressed also. Take your time.
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Got the undercut in?
It's the hard part sometimes.
You can get pinched easy in the back cut if you get too excited The bottom of the tree and maybe the bottom of the split are your pinch points here
If it starts to lean outwards to the pond and then you will even get pinched above your undercut if you tip is sticking out . Don't over commit too far to the edge or the split or the bottom
Do it all with the tip by starting with the outer top closest to where you should be standing (safe side) Bring top section down close to the split go deeper and bring some more down.
Cut a bit of the outside split down with the tip if it seems good.
You are bringing the back cut in on an angle then bring the middle down then outside bottom should be ready to open up some.
You should clear out that snow and do a root inspection to see what you are dealing with.
You are going to take the small tree out in the water first and work under this tree???
I wouldn't suggest doing that.
I will also likely stop a barber chair if the back section roots poped out. The most dangerous barber chairs are when the tree is standing up a lot more.

If you and the tree are still standing then maybe we could modify that plan a bit.


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## woodfarmer (Oct 30, 2020)

Excellent explanation!


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## Westboastfaller (Oct 30, 2020)

woodfarmer said:


> Excellent explanation!


Thanks friends. I can write jokes at free will, I can 'talk off the cuff' in writing but the hardest thing I has ever had to write about in my entire life is This kinda stuff above^^^ it should be the easiest to me...no?

I should stick to improve 
Much easier!


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## woodfarmer (Nov 7, 2020)

Well I think this post jinxed me. This ash had a crease in it but I needed to fall it in a certain direction. Face cut to the right of its lean 45* from the crease but apparently not enough. I heard it crack and got the heck out of there. Brought it down with another tree. Literally the first barberchair I have ever had with Ash. Probably should have bored this one.


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## Mad Professor (Nov 7, 2020)

woodfarmer said:


> Well I think this post jinxed me. This ash had a crease in it but I needed to fall it in a certain direction. Face cut to the right of its lean 45* from the crease but apparently not enough. I heard it crack and got the heck out of there. Brought it down with another tree. Literally the first barberchair I have ever had with Ash. Probably should have bored this one.View attachment 866729



Crease looks to be pretty rotted. Looks like you knew so as there are twp plunges into the crease

That tree was a good candidate for a few wraps of chain above your cuts


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## woodfarmer (Nov 7, 2020)

Ye, there was a nice maple and oak I didn’t want to hit so I didn’t want to send it 90* to the lean. See the ash in the background to the right, I used it to knock this one down.


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## northmanlogging (Nov 7, 2020)

woodfarmer said:


> Well I think this post jinxed me. This ash had a crease in it but I needed to fall it in a certain direction. Face cut to the right of its lean 45* from the crease but apparently not enough. I heard it crack and got the heck out of there. Brought it down with another tree. Literally the first barberchair I have ever had with Ash. Probably should have bored this one.View attachment 866729


Looks like you dutched it, and it stalled, at least partially contributing to the chair. 

Ya stayed safe thats half the battle though.


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## Bwildered (Nov 8, 2020)

northmanlogging said:


> Looks like you dutched it, and it stalled, at least partially contributing to the chair.
> 
> Ya stayed safe thats half the battle though.


I've said it before & I'll say it again , this fellow needs some instruction before he becomes a statistic, when you look back at the pictures he's posted, most of them have a Dutchman & the hinges cut completely away.


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## woodfarmer (Nov 8, 2020)

I very rarely bypass my face cut if that’s what your referring to. I nipe the ears on the sides which you can see by the triple hinge. I cut in a Hardwood bush where the canopy often causes trees to get hung up which is what happened here Northman. They just can’t build up much momentum. I’m trying to fell trees between what little space there is to preserve the younger maple and oak trees, not easy to do. None of these ash are straight, they often have a sweeping lean and can have another top lean. I use the triple hinge and a swing Dutchman and wedges often to try to get trees to drop where I want often 90 to 180* opposite the lean.

Bewildred, I do appreciate your concern. This is how I’ve always handled these ash, out of the hundreds I have cut have only had these couple bad ones in the last week or so. I had a strong feeling this barberchair might happen and took extra precaution. I run a fast saw right until the tree is on its way over. I take felling and my safety very seriously. I’ve been Cutting for 40 years, Ive been with pros and learned a lot. Some of the newer techniques I have tried have only come in the last couple years due to the information on sites and video, of course not all good at times.
in the pictures I posted in the other logging thread you can see hinge and a larger tree that was bore cut too.


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## northmanlogging (Nov 8, 2020)

Dutching a chair prone tree into the hold wood, even a little bit, is a bad idea. 
As for the triple hinge, I have my doubts as to its effectiveness, especially on a chair prone tree. You are essentially giving the chair a head start.


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## holeycow (Nov 8, 2020)

Ok, I reread my post. That was harsh. Sorry! Really. But the fact of the matter is that every cut I see is a fail if you were being tested to go to work professionally.
I think that's what the pros on this thread (several) are trying to tell you nicely.

I deleted my way too harsh post...


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## Bwildered (Nov 8, 2020)

woodfarmer said:


> I very rarely bypass my face cut if that’s what your referring to. I nipe the ears on the sides which you can see by the triple hinge. I cut in a Hardwood bush where the canopy often causes trees to get hung up which is what happened here Northman. They just can’t build up much momentum. I’m trying to fell trees between what little space there is to preserve the younger maple and oak trees, not easy to do. None of these ash are straight, they often have a sweeping lean and can have another top lean. I use the triple hinge and a swing Dutchman and wedges often to try to get trees to drop where I want often 90 to 180* opposite the lean.
> 
> Bewildred, I do appreciate your concern. This is how I’ve always handled these ash, out of the hundreds I have cut have only had these couple bad ones in the last week or so. I had a strong feeling this barberchair might happen and took extra precaution. I run a fast saw right until the tree is on its way over. I take felling and my safety very seriously. I’ve been Cutting for 40 years, Ive been with pros and learned a lot. Some of the newer techniques I have tried have only come in the last couple years due to the information on sites and video, of course not all good at times.
> in the pictures I posted in the other logging thread you can see hinge and a larger tree that was bore cut too.


You shouldn't be using dangerous technique to over come tight falling spaces, if a tree is in the way you remove it first so you make space for it to land without getting hung up, you create more long term damage to the other trees by falling others into them , plus end up with hung up trees all over the place , which is the second most dangerous thing to have going on in a logging operation"


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## Westboastfaller (Nov 8, 2020)

woodfarmer said:


> Well I think this post jinxed me. This ash had a crease in it but I needed to fall it in a certain direction. Face cut to the right of its lean 45* from the crease but apparently not enough. I heard it crack and got the heck out of there. Brought it down with another tree. Literally the first barberchair I have ever had with Ash. Probably should have bored this one.View attachment 866729


That's not what I meant.


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## catbuster (Nov 8, 2020)

@woodfarmer 

Let’s look at a few aspects of falling trees from a thousand-foot perspective. It may not be popular, but I quite frankly don’t care if it keeps somebody from getting hurt or killed.

First off, opening up is one of the most important parts of your day. It’s harder in deciduous forests than evergreen forests, trust me, I’ve done both. If you can’t find a good direction for the tree you want to fall, you _must _make a space for it to go. Sometimes you’ll have to take a tree you planned on leaving. If you’re selectively cutting, well, you’ll explain it to whoever is in charge and move on.

Secondly, as some others have noted, _leave your hinge alone._ Do not nip the edges, cut a dutchman, triple hinge, blah blah. A lot of the things you’ll see on the internet are not strictly sound. I saw a video with Scott Wadsworth (The Essential Craftsman) taking down several oaks and he nipped the edges because the first few had chaired on him. Geez. I’ll listen to the guy discuss carpentry and concrete all day, but that scared me. People will listen, too, because the guy is who he is. A lot of the stuff on the internet is not well explained... At all. I’ll leave it at that.

Third... Deciduous trees are not Douglas Fir. They’re not even Madrone (Arbutus to you BC folk). They are much less forgiving to **** ups and the stuff you’ll see the left coast/inland northwest guys doing. Leave the triple hinge to trees with strong fibers and that are big enough to do it. Better yet, forget about it entirely. If you see a deciduous tree with any sort of defect, it’s in your best interest to just send it in the direction of the lean.


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## northmanlogging (Nov 9, 2020)

catbuster said:


> @woodfarmer
> 
> Let’s look at a few aspects of falling trees from a thousand-foot perspective. It may not be popular, but I quite frankly don’t care if it keeps somebody from getting hurt or killed.
> 
> ...


to be fair, the triple hinge, does have a use, but its not in hard woods, its in sketchy brittle janky assed junk wood like cottonweeds and poplars, or maybe some of the softer pines. And that is only if your are asking more of it to turn and swing than is wise or warranted, never ever use it on a hard leaner, chair prone timber like alder or ash, or a tree that is already compromised. 

Also I might add, the "triple" hinge is meant to compliment a siswheel or block face, it doesn't do **** on a normal slope/pie type face cut, and siswheel is really only used for swinging trees way passed the point of sanity or logic. 

What I and others told the OP was to cut it sideways to the lean, and the crack that was obvious in the original picture, face it back it and send it, NO ONE mentioned any other fancy foot work, What the OP did was cut it nearly on plain with the crack, and weaken what ever wood was already there,.

As for nipping the "sap wood" i.e. cutting the sides of the hinge, it is taught in several books, usually by MFers that do not cut timber for a living, it does not prevent a chair as they claim, if anything it could contribute to a chair, the only thing nipping the sides is good for is to reduce fiber pull on spensive timber, and even then it doesn't do much.


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## woodfarmer (Nov 9, 2020)

I hear you guys load and clear, I will stop with the fancy s**t. 
Now, where is the OP with his tree?


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## rwoods (Nov 9, 2020)

woodfarmer said:


> I hear you guys load and clear, I will stop with the fancy s**t.
> ...



Progress. Keep posting.

Ron


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## northmanlogging (Nov 9, 2020)

woodfarmer said:


> I hear you guys load and clear, I will stop with the fancy s**t.
> Now, where is the OP with his tree?


oh S, it looked so much the same lol, sorry for the mix up but yeah don't do that


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## Tyler Vosters (Nov 11, 2020)

Thanks for all the input again. Sorry I've been busy setting up my new sawmill! I have not done anything to the leaning ash yet. Waiting for a little snow on the ground and for the pond water to freeze. Won't be long and I'll be attempting to take it down. I will post when I do. I just want to do it as safely as possible so I appreciate the comments.


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## Woody912 (Jan 4, 2021)

Tyler Vosters said:


> Looking for advice on taking this ash down as I do not have a ton of experience with leaners or trees under tension. You can see the crack up the middle so a barber chair is my main concern. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.




I have a red oak about 6x that big, same lean with a crack. Unless I can get my hands on some dynamite or c4 that sumbitch is going to have to fall down by itself. I have enough ash to cut for now. If somebody held a gun on me to cut your tree I would wrap it with everything I could find and then bore cut it. But listen to the pros, I ain't one


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## jetsam (Jan 30, 2021)

You can burn them down too, especially if they're already a split up barberchair-in-progress . Advantage is that you can stand further away than the tree is tall. Disadvantages are that it isn't fast, not guaranteed to even work, and you have to put the fire out.

Knew a guy who said he did it with black powder. He said it worked great but it sounds expensive to me!

I've also shot a tree down with a .22, but that took multiple years and several kids shooting at it.... that stump is probably still there because it's made of lead now.


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## Tyler Vosters (Feb 14, 2022)

Finally took down this ash tree! Got greedy cutting the wedge and pinched the saw twice but all in all it fell perfectly! I thought for sure it was not going to release from the trees it was hung up in but it dropped right out.








New video by Tyler Vosters







photos.app.goo.gl


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## Brufab (Feb 14, 2022)

Tyler Vosters said:


> Finally took down this ash tree! Got greedy cutting the wedge and pinched the saw twice but all in all it fell perfectly! I thought for sure it was not going to release from the trees it was hung up in but it dropped right out.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice work, every tree felled is one more bit of knowledge learned. I personally wouldn't bore cut a dead ash, the trees have a mind of there own sometimes and pounding a wedge to hard can cause branches to fall and hit the feller. Usually I reserve the bore cut for veneer quality trees or to test really bignpopple trees for center rot.


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## Tyler Vosters (Feb 14, 2022)

Yeah I didn’t bore cut. Essentially just cut it like a standard tree but had a solid escape route/strategy.


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## kevcam.111 (Jun 13, 2022)

** disregard... i should have read the rest of the thread before asking an already answered quiestion...



Westboastfaller said:


> 60° off the lean to the pond side.
> Should spin and flop out of the trees..
> This way you have mitigated the lean/crack opposed to falling with the lean.


what do you mean by 60 degree off the lean? if the stump is bisected we are looking at 360 degrees, so 60 degrees towards the pond from the lean is where the notch should be made/aimed,or am i misunderstanding?

new member to the forum some knowledge but still much to learn so i am just asking because im not confident in my interpretation. thanks


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## catbuster (Jun 26, 2022)

Alright, armchair quarterbacks, how do you propose taking this down? It _is_ a wind blown hung up tree. It’s about two miles, two steep draws and a big pile or giant rocks from a road, so a machine isn’t getting near it.

I can come up with two options, and lobbing another tree isn’t one of them. It’s just not going to work with the canopy, nor is there a good tree behind me to smash it with-you’ll have to trust me on that part.


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## uniballer (Jun 27, 2022)

How big is that thing? The classic (and relatively safe) move is to cut it loose from the stump and pull it back off the tree it is hung up in. But without a machine to pull it you are left with using a come-along or other winch (slow and tedious).

If there is no crisis of time or safety then maybe just let it fall on its own.


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## arathol (Jun 27, 2022)

catbuster said:


> View attachment 998910
> 
> 
> Alright, armchair quarterbacks, how do you propose taking this down? It _is_ a wind blown hung up tree. It’s about two miles, two steep draws and a big pile or giant rocks from a road, so a machine isn’t getting near it.
> ...


Two miles from the middle of nowhere......whats the worry? Leave it, it will fall soon enough.


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## northmanlogging (Jun 27, 2022)

I'm guessing a trail, or some other recreational purpose, which doesn't matter. If its gotta come down then...
I see 4 options, chunk it from the stump up until it drops free, which is the easy option, but not necessarily the safest. 
cut the tree its hung in, called a bear trap for a reason, be ready to run fast, probably the least safe option. 
The safe option would be to climb the healthy stem, and cut the branch thats holding everything up, being very very careful in the order of your cuts, and making damned sure that the root structure of the live tree isn't compromised. still not very safe 
the last and least practical would be to cut the stump free and come-a-long until it drops free, the hazard being back slip etc and also a **** load of work while 2 miles from transportation.


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## dboyd351 (Jun 27, 2022)

put up a sign "see the tree? - follow the trail at your own risk"


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## catbuster (Jun 27, 2022)

uniballer said:


> How big is that thing? The classic (and relatively safe) move is to cut it loose from the stump and pull it back off the tree it is hung up in. But without a machine to pull it you are left with using a come-along or other winch (slow and tedious).
> 
> If there is no crisis of time or safety then maybe just let it fall on its own.



I’d venture to say it’s ~24” at the base and 85-90’ long. The hickory holding it up is a noodle. That hunk is rotted and really nasty. Unfortunately it’s in shadow and hard to tell from the image.

The two options I could come up with didn’t involve a chainsaw. I was thinking either leave it be, or blast it if it absolutely has to come down. Of course, there’s licensing & stuff involved that I possess that most people don’t, so I look at things from a little different lens. However, in the words of Red Adair, “explosives are nothing but an expedient tool.”

Also, remember here we’re two miles from a road and it’s not a fun hike out. It’s going to take a long time to get out in case of injury. The closest trauma center is 60 miles away and the closest “I really messed myself up and I’ll wake up in two weeks” place is 80.

My point here was to reinforce that walking away is sometimes the best option.


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## Woodslasher (Jun 28, 2022)

catbuster said:


> View attachment 998910
> 
> 
> Alright, armchair quarterbacks, how do you propose taking this down? It _is_ a wind blown hung up tree. It’s about two miles, two steep draws and a big pile or giant rocks from a road, so a machine isn’t getting near it.
> ...


Det cord, or shoot the small limb fork with a big gun until the tree just falls off to the other side.


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## oldbuzzard (Jun 28, 2022)

Doubt that Red Adair ever had the choice of walking away. If it is that far in and inaccessible I would leave it.


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## rwoods (Jul 18, 2022)

catbuster said:


> View attachment 998910
> 
> 
> Alright, armchair quarterbacks, how do you propose taking this down? It _is_ a wind blown hung up tree. It’s about two miles, two steep draws and a big pile or giant rocks from a road, so a machine isn’t getting near it.
> ...





northmanlogging said:


> I'm guessing a trail, or some other recreational purpose, which doesn't matter. If its gotta come down then...
> I see 4 options, chunk it from the stump up until it drops free, which is the easy option, but not necessarily the safest.
> cut the tree its hung in, called a bear trap for a reason, be ready to run fast, probably the least safe option.
> The safe option would be to climb the healthy stem, and cut the branch thats holding everything up, being very very careful in the order of your cuts, and making damned sure that the root structure of the live tree isn't compromised. still not very safe
> the last and least practical would be to cut the stump free and come-a-long until it drops free, the hazard being back slip etc and also a **** load of work while 2 miles from transportation.



CB, my suggestion is a twist on NM's option #3 - convince NM to walk up the leaner (with sharp caulks it should be a cake walk for him). Once to the top, he can bear hug the hickory with one arm, cut off the leaner's branch using his other arm, kick the leaner to the side, if necessary, with one or both of his free feet, then scamper down the hickory after the leaner falls. Or as big and strong as he is, you could just ask him to put his shoulder to the butt and walk it uphill. 

Ron

PS to you and NM, I bought a midget dozer. I will report to you later.


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