# Details pictures of Alsakan MKIII



## MikeInParadise (Apr 8, 2006)

Before I put together and started using my Alsakan MKIII mill I took some details pictures. 

Seeing as people are interested in building their own I figured that I would post those pictures here...



























More to come...


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## MikeInParadise (Apr 8, 2006)

*Detail Pictures Part 2*


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## MikeInParadise (Apr 8, 2006)

*Detail Pictures Part 3*


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## coveredinsap (Apr 8, 2006)

I like the Alaskan Mills. As I said previously, I was down at the Granberg facility on Mare Island a month or so ago....very nice people. They ship those Alaskan Mills all over the world. And they're popular with missionaries going into remote areas...particularly in South America.

The folks at Granberg International took the time to answer every one of my stupid questions too, and that means a lot to me 

Drop in and pay them a visit if you get the chance...besides, you get to see Mare Island, which is very interesting. It wasn't that many years ago that you couldn't even get past the Marine guard shack at the entrance to Mare Island.


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## oldsaw (Apr 9, 2006)

Wow, nice and shiny. I seem to remember mine looking like that once. Been a while though.

Mark


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Apr 9, 2006)

Thanks, Mike. I've been looking for something like this for a while.


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## johncinco (Apr 10, 2006)

If somebody has the right welder, and materials and time, they could build one. But, in all reality these things are priced so cheaply, and built so well why bother.  If you build one are you going to the measurements on the side to keep your cuts straight, have a handle that also holds your screwch, all the lil things that probably took them a few tries to make work better. I have been very happy with mine and as long as your willing to do some hard work, its a very good set up.


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 10, 2006)

Nice pictures, thanks for posting them...

Rob


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Apr 10, 2006)

johncinco said:


> If somebody has the right welder, and materials and time, they could build one. But, in all reality these things are priced so cheaply, and built so well why bother...



Honestly, I've had that thought many times. I just have an obsession with building crap.


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## 820wards (Jan 13, 2008)

*Here's One I'm Working On*



aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Honestly, I've had that thought many times. I just have an obsession with building crap.



Here is a mill I've been working on for the past few weeks. I need to add a few braces and an handle for the basic frame and it will be ready to go. I'm using a PowerBee 820 motor so I'll be adding an oiler at both ends of the 38" bar. Oil/gas tank will be fabricated from aluminum as I have an unlimited source for the stuff. I'm getting antsy to use the thing. Have to head to the cabin to do some limb chipping on Monday so It will have to wait until I get back.

jerry-


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## duffontap (Jan 13, 2008)

Wow Jerry--I wish I had your metal-working skills. Do you have any idea what it weighs? 

J. D.


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## BobL (Jan 13, 2008)

Thanks for posting the pics MIP - I have never seen one of these close up.



johncinco said:


> If somebody has the right welder, and materials and time, they could build one. But, in all reality these things are priced so cheaply, and built so well why bother.



Ahh, it depends what yer buz it. I got more jollies out of building and moding the BIL mill than using it, and using it is a real pleasure. It's the one of the few tools that I have made that works maybe even better than I imagined it would. Thanks mainly of course to this forum. 

For many it's the destinations but for some it's the road trips.


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## Frank Boyer (Jan 13, 2008)

820wards said:


> Here is a mill I've been working on for the past few weeks. I need to add a few braces and an handle for the basic frame and it will be ready to go. I'm using a PowerBee 820 motor so I'll be adding an oiler at both ends of the 38" bar. Oil/gas tank will be fabricated from aluminum as I have an unlimited source for the stuff. I'm getting antsy to use the thing. Have to head to the cabin to do some limb chipping on Monday so It will have to wait until I get back.
> 
> jerry-


Jerry 
Nice work. 
I have some Tan Oak to test it on.


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## user 19670 (Jan 13, 2008)

*NIce job*



820wards said:


> Here is a mill I've been working on for the past few weeks. I need to add a few braces and an handle for the basic frame and it will be ready to go. I'm using a PowerBee 820 motor so I'll be adding an oiler at both ends of the 38" bar. Oil/gas tank will be fabricated from aluminum as I have an unlimited source for the stuff. I'm getting antsy to use the thing. Have to head to the cabin to do some limb chipping on Monday so It will have to wait until I get back.
> 
> jerry-



Good work Jerry. I just retired from 34 years of working with steel and I know that this will weigh a lot. With unlimited access to aluminum you could lighten it up quite a bit after you get the bugs worked out.


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## rayvil01 (Jan 13, 2008)

Thank you for the pictures. I'm putting mine together right now, so this is a big help. 

It would be a lot of fun to make a personal mill. 

_It wasn't that many years ago that you couldn't even get past the Marine guard shack at the entrance to Mare Island._

Way, way off topic, but I was stationed there back in 1976 at the Nuclear Power School. Gorgeous piece of property. The Navy had been there for a long time. The old School house was actually a converted World War I hospital. Beautiful piece of land.


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## woodshop (Jan 13, 2008)

Very nice metelworking Jerry... I too wish I knew more about welding and such. I have to agree with Bob though, a large part of designing and building something from scratch is the pure satisfaction of just that, designing and building something that works as well or sometime better than the factory bought one. I understand often when it's all said and done you might have been able to buy on cheaper, but that isn't always the point. One of the reasons I like to design and build jigs in my shop in some ways more than actually using the jig to make the product, is that satisfaction of designing and building something unique. 

When you get that thing finished and filled with a saw, take some pics of it in action and let us know how it works.


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## 820wards (Jan 13, 2008)

duffontap said:


> Wow Jerry--I wish I had your metal-working skills. Do you have any idea what it weighs?
> 
> J. D.



I'm going to be working on it more today so I'll grab the wife's scale and see what it weighs.

jerry-


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jan 13, 2008)

Nice work.


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## 820wards (Jan 14, 2008)

BobL said:


> Thanks for posting the pics MIP - I have never seen one of these close up.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Bob's right on on why people build stuff... Sometimes it's as much fun to build something as it is to use. In a way I'm building this mill so I can give my 83 yr. Dad some wood to play with in his shop. Like they say, you never get old if you keep building.

jerry-


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## 820wards (Jan 14, 2008)

woodshop said:


> Very nice metelworking Jerry... I too wish I knew more about welding and such. I have to agree with Bob though, a large part of designing and building something from scratch is the pure satisfaction of just that, designing and building something that works as well or sometime better than the factory bought one. I understand often when it's all said and done you might have been able to buy on cheaper, but that isn't always the point. One of the reasons I like to design and build jigs in my shop in some ways more than actually using the jig to make the product, is that satisfaction of designing and building something unique.
> 
> When you get that thing finished and filled with a saw, take some pics of it in action and let us know how it works.



Woodshop,

Will do!

jerry-


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## 820wards (Jan 14, 2008)

Gordie said:


> Good work Jerry. I just retired from 34 years of working with steel and I know that this will weigh a lot. With unlimited access to aluminum you could lighten it up quite a bit after you get the bugs worked out.



OK, I worked on the mill again today and also weighed it. As you see it in the attached pictures with the mill head attached, it weighs 47.2 pounds. So I'm guessing that with the handles I still need to make the two oil tanks, gas tank and manual oil pump and chain, it should be right around 50 lbs. I was talking to my machinest neighbor and we had an idea on some of the pieces that are now steel being machined from a block of aluminum. That will be the next mill. This stuff is addictive...

I'll send more pictures when I get the aluminum tanks fabricated, throttle and oil pump mounted.

jerry-


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## Stihl-in-Ky (Jan 14, 2008)

I bought my first Alaskan mill and then built one of my own,what I like about the one I built is the rails that run one the wood are made of uni-strut and if I want to make the mill longer all I have to do is put on two longer pieces of uni-strut and it can be as long as I have a bar for. Also on the adjustment for wood thickness I drilled holes at the common for me stops and it is a lot faster and easier to adjust and they will not slip as they are pinned in place.I put stops at 1,2,3,4 and 6.5 inches the 6.5 is what it takes to make my first cut with my ladder on top of the log to flatten the top of the log.


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## woodshop (Jan 14, 2008)

820wards said:


> OK, I worked on the mill again today and also weighed it. As you see it in the attached pictures with the mill head attached, it weighs 47.2 pounds. So I'm guessing that with the handles I still need to make the two oil tanks, gas tank and manual oil pump and chain, it should be right around 50 lbs.



That's not too bad actually for a home made mill. My Alaskan MKIII with a 395XP and 36" bar/chain is 42 lbs. My Ripsaw with a MS361 powerhead is 47 lbs. Maybe you have more energy than I, but I will tell you swinging around something 50 lbs all day can really wear a guy out. Great way to burn calories though. AND... when its all said and done, you have some wood to show for it.


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## duffontap (Jan 14, 2008)

Man these pics are great. I just got confirmation that the MKIII I ordered last week will be here soon. These are exciting times.  

J. D.


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## oldsaw (Jan 14, 2008)

Stihl-in-Ky said:


> I bought my first Alaskan mill and then built one of my own,what I like about the one I built is the rails that run one the wood are made of uni-strut and if I want to make the mill longer all I have to do is put on two longer pieces of uni-strut and it can be as long as I have a bar for. Also on the adjustment for wood thickness I drilled holes at the common for me stops and it is a lot faster and easier to adjust and they will not slip as they are pinned in place.I put stops at 1,2,3,4 and 6.5 inches the 6.5 is what it takes to make my first cut with my ladder on top of the log to flatten the top of the log.



Could you post a picture of that? Sounds like something I've been trying to work out but can't streamline enough to my satisfaction. Yours sounds much cleaner.

Mark


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## Ole Dad (Jan 15, 2008)

*Thanks for the pics Mike*

Hey MIke. I am thinking of getting a mill just like yours. Let us know how you like it etc. I haven't spoke to anyone that has used one before. With no more woodworking etc I cannot justify a bandsaw mill but these chainsaw mills look like a good place to get started.


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## 1953greg (Jan 15, 2008)

wondering if that is enough engine? anyone have experience w/ small 4 cycle engines on a mill?? is there enough rpm to engage the clutch??
sure wood b quieter though!!!

http://arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62778&d=1200293223


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## BobL (Jan 15, 2008)

Jerry,

I assumed you used C channel for the main rails because that is what you had available but I reckon the orientation you have chosen is going to cause unnecessary friction and wear where it rubs on any rails or the log itself during milling. If you can do it, I would flip the C section to have the flat part on the log. This is significantly easier to setup in an "adjustable for bar length form" if the main rails are T-track or Unistrut type rails. I have gone even further by putting polyethylene (PE) skids on both my small and larger mills (see link in my signature below). My BIL Mill is built entirely out of ally and with the 42" blade and old school 076 it also weighs about 50 lbs but it slides around on rails or logs easier than the small (50cc - 20" bar) mill without the (PE) skids attached.


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## MikeInParadise (Jan 15, 2008)

Ole Dad said:


> Hey MIke. I am thinking of getting a mill just like yours. Let us know how you like it etc. I haven't spoke to anyone that has used one before. With no more woodworking etc I cannot justify a bandsaw mill but these chainsaw mills look like a good place to get started.




The mill does what it is supposed to do. It does the job but is hard work and is not real fast. I bought it to make use of dead falls etc out at the woodlot.

It requires a decent size saw.

It is ideal to take advantage of available wood when you do not have the equipment to move the logs out of the bush.

Do a search through the posts and you will find lots of pictures of various members using this.


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## Ole Dad (Jan 17, 2008)

Hey Mike. If you would post some pics of you with it on a log. Someone was telling me I would need rails or 2x4 to run one of these on. I don't know so I'm watching this link for help.


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## 820wards (Jan 17, 2008)

BobL said:


> Jerry,
> 
> I assumed you used C channel for the main rails because that is what you had available but I reckon the orientation you have chosen is going to cause unnecessary friction and wear where it rubs on any rails or the log itself during milling. If you can do it, I would flip the C section to have the flat part on the log. This is significantly easier to setup in an "adjustable for bar length form" if the main rails are T-track or Unistrut type rails. I have gone even further by putting polyethylene (PE) skids on both my small and larger mills (see link in my signature below). My BIL Mill is built entirely out of ally and with the 42" blade and old school 076 it also weighs about 50 lbs but it slides around on rails or logs easier than the small (50cc - 20" bar) mill without the (PE) skids attached.



Bob,

I was wondering if I needed to turn the C-Channel over. Easy to do, I'll just make blocks the bolt the channel to with flat side down. Thanks

jerry-


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## harrygrey382 (Jan 17, 2008)

Jee nice work Jerry, I'm about to build something pretty similar, just sorting out the right saw (stock chainsaw)... Another story. Do you mind if I borrow some of your details? I like the adjustable clamp for the thickness.


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## BobL (Jan 17, 2008)

820wards said:


> Bob,
> 
> I was wondering if I needed to turn the C-Channel over. Easy to do, I'll just make blocks the bolt the channel to with flat side down. Thanks
> 
> jerry-



Yep - good idea. The smoother the surface you run on the smoother a finish you get. If there is a bit of sharp dip or rise in the wood the mill will jump and can magnify the defect in the subsequent cuts.


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## MikeInParadise (Jan 17, 2008)

Ole Dad said:


> Hey Mike. If you would post some pics of you with it on a log. Someone was telling me I would need rails or 2x4 to run one of these on. I don't know so I'm watching this link for help.



You really should do a search...there are tons of posts on this..

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=40099





http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=56450







http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=39023


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## rayvil01 (Jan 17, 2008)

MikeinParadise,
In the bottom pic it looks like you have black pipe insulating foam on the tie rod of the Alaskan Mill. What's that for, please? 

Thanks


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## BobL (Jan 17, 2008)

rayvil01 said:


> MikeinParadise,
> In the bottom pic it looks like you have black pipe insulating foam on the tie rod of the Alaskan Mill. What's that for, please?
> 
> Thanks



That's probably to reduce vibration? A bit like the foam on the handles on this one.





I've actually found that insulating foam to be ineffective for long term use as it stretches and flops about so one ends up taping it which compresses it too much and have found mountain bike grips on handles like this to be much better.


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## MikeInParadise (Jan 18, 2008)

rayvil01 said:


> MikeinParadise,
> In the bottom pic it looks like you have black pipe insulating foam on the tie rod of the Alaskan Mill. What's that for, please?
> 
> Thanks



BobL was correct it is just to dampen the vibration and to give my hands a little cush when I carry it. Just a big wuss am I


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## 1953greg (Jan 19, 2008)

*jerry*



820wards said:


> OK, I worked on the mill again today and also weighed it. As you see it in the attached pictures with the mill head attached, it weighs 47.2 pounds. So I'm guessing that with the handles I still need to make the two oil tanks, gas tank and manual oil pump and chain, it should be right around 50 lbs. I was talking to my machinest neighbor and we had an idea on some of the pieces that are now steel being machined from a block of aluminum. That will be the next mill. This stuff is addictive...
> 
> I'll send more pictures when I get the aluminum tanks fabricated, throttle and oil pump mounted.
> 
> jerry-



any milling yet? curious if the engine doing ok? sure would be much quieter and economical if it is adequate.


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## 820wards (Jan 20, 2008)

1953greg said:


> any milling yet? curious if the engine doing ok? sure would be much quieter and economical if it is adequate.



No milling yet, BobL suggested that I rotate the channel piece so the flat side is down so I checked in the McMaster Carr catalog and I can purchase some alunumun channel that I can bolt on much easier. I'm going down Monday to a supplier that can get those pieces. I was hoping my friend where I get my aluminum from had something like that, but he didn't.

As for the 8.2c.i. 134cc PowerBe motor, it's brand new, never been fired. I have the same motor on my 820 WARDS saw so I'm very familar with these motors. In stock form it produces 10hp. I have updraded to a larger carburator and will be installing a high end electronic ignition. Once I get the unit running I also plan to change out the stainless steel reed valves to some carbon fiber units that will give me better throddle response. When I get done with the motor mods I should be making an honest 15hp. I have done these modifications to my chainsaw and it's a good reliable setup.

Spent today putting my brothers little SKIL 1416 back together that he took apart and couldn't put back together. Once back together I found that it needs a carburator rebuild kit. The diaphram is dried out and has a crack it so it's not pumping fuel.

I'll be starting the gas/oil tanks this week. I'll post more pictures when they are done.

jerry-


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