# Building a new tip-up log splitter



## radroy92 (Dec 16, 2010)

Hello all,

I'm new to the site but I have been reading the posts for information on log splitters for a several months. I had been saving materials for a new splitter for a while and finally reached critical mass this summer. I've attached a few pics to show the early progress.

Roy


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## Rookie1 (Dec 16, 2010)

Very nice Roy. Keep the pics coming. Welcome to AS,this is a great first post. Heres your first pic.


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## dellwas (Dec 16, 2010)

Looking good! 

You should post over here, as I know they'd love it:

www.weldingweb.com


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## Blazin (Dec 16, 2010)

You got a good start there, Don't forget to post the the finished unit!


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## tomtrees58 (Dec 16, 2010)

looks like and erector set:hmm3grin2orange:


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## iowa (Dec 16, 2010)

Looks sweet! Nice welding btw...


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## John R (Dec 16, 2010)

Very nice welding.


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## RAYINTOMBALL (Dec 16, 2010)

Great start on the splitter. Keep us up to date on the progress. And like others have said nice looking beads.


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## nassin2 (Dec 16, 2010)

I like the beveled base of the wedge plate to keep wood from hanging up. Nice welds too.


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## radroy92 (Dec 16, 2010)

*Replies WOW!*

You guys are great! Thanks for all the compliments! Yeah when it was all laid out on the patio it sort of does look like I dumped a giant Erector Set out of it's box. I've changed ideas on a few things but I have used most of the metal in the picture.

The beveled edge on the wedge was something I saw somewhere. I left it thick in the middle because I was worried about burning the tip of the edge off with the weld. I've seen a couple variations of it. I must have downloaded 200 pictures of factory and home made splitters off the Web looking for ideas.

Special thanks for the positive comments on the welding. I haven't welded for several years and it's not exactly like riding a bike. I have spent more time grinding off bad welds than making good ones. I have actually lost sleep over the damn things. Persistance and grinding wheels.

Roy


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## radroy92 (Dec 16, 2010)

*Weldingweb*



dellwas said:


> Looking good!
> 
> You should post over here, as I know they'd love it:
> 
> www.weldingweb.com



That's a great idea. I could use some welding tips too.

Thanks,

Roy


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## radroy92 (Dec 19, 2010)

*Building a new tip-up log splitter #2*

Here are some pics of making the base. I added some heavy wall rectangular tubing inside the base to keep it from bending and add some weight. The rest of the pics are examples of how I did the gussets on each end of the I-beam. I used 7018 rods for the first few passes. Then if I wanted better looking welds I went over them with 6013 rods.

Roy


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## radroy92 (Dec 23, 2010)

*Building a new tip-up log splitter #3*

Here are some pics of deciding how big to make the rack for the engine and oil tank. I was also locating where to weld the pivot points for the tip-up function.

Roy


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## Suz (Dec 23, 2010)

radroy92 said:


> Here are some pics of making the base. I added some heavy wall rectangular tubing inside the base to keep it from bending and add some weight. The rest of the pics are examples of how I did the gussets on each end of the I-beam. I used 7018 rods for the first few passes. Then if I wanted better looking welds I went over them with 6013 rods.
> 
> Roy


I hope that your "hollow foot" will be strong enough with the tubing inside. I have found when using our splitter in the vertical mode is that you have a tendency to have the chunk of wood press against the very tip of the foot. When this happens the pressure will test your metal and welds to the extreme. With our splitter, I finally laminated a bunch of 2x3/8x16 inch flat stock to make a 2 inch thick foot. This one will not break!
Also, I hope those are high speed tires, wheels, spindles, and bearings you have to transport the rig. Be sure to watch your tongue weight because there will be a lot of metal hanging off the back of the axle. Make sure the tongue is long enough. (DAMHIKT)


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## Rookie1 (Dec 23, 2010)

Nice Roy but you better wait til you finish it to pull it behind the truck. LOL Ive wanted to build my own for years but I just cant find the time or money. Keep the pics coming.


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## radroy92 (Dec 23, 2010)

*Foot and Tirz*



Suz said:


> I hope that your "hollow foot" will be strong enough with the tubing inside. I have found when using our splitter in the vertical mode is that you have a tendency to have the chunk of wood press against the very tip of the foot. When this happens the pressure will test your metal and welds to the extreme. With our splitter, I finally laminated a bunch of 2x3/8x16 inch flat stock to make a 2 inch thick foot. This one will not break!
> Also, I hope those are high speed tires, wheels, spindles, and bearings you have to transport the rig. Be sure to watch your tongue weight because there will be a lot of metal hanging off the back of the axle. Make sure the tongue is long enough. (DAMHIKT)



I think the foot will hold up. That tubing is thick and heavy. The pic shows tack welds. I made full length welds after I took the picture. All of the critical welds were done with high strength rods and usually multipass. I've seen other splitters that only used a piece of chanel for the foot with no other metal added in. Also those gussets add a lot of surface area for more weld and greater strength. And if it snaps well then I learn something.

The wheels are off a Harbor Freight 4x8 trailer kit. It was cheaper to buy the whole trailer kit on sale than buy the wheels, hubs and axles. Yes they are high speed. I really haven't seen any wheels made like this that are not high speed.

Roy


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## radroy92 (Dec 23, 2010)

*Tongue weight*



Suz said:


> I hope that your "hollow foot" will be strong enough with the tubing inside. I have found when using our splitter in the vertical mode is that you have a tendency to have the chunk of wood press against the very tip of the foot. When this happens the pressure will test your metal and welds to the extreme. With our splitter, I finally laminated a bunch of 2x3/8x16 inch flat stock to make a 2 inch thick foot. This one will not break!
> Also, I hope those are high speed tires, wheels, spindles, and bearings you have to transport the rig. Be sure to watch your tongue weight because there will be a lot of metal hanging off the back of the axle. Make sure the tongue is long enough. (DAMHIKT)



I made the tongue long enough to have the tail gate downwith the splitter hitched up. I can swing the splitter completety one side, 90 degrees to the back bumper, and still be able to use the splitter.

The weight? There is a few pounds on it untill you put the cylinder in place then maybe, oh it has to be under 80 or 90 pounds. I mean I can lift it pretty easily.

Roy


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## radroy92 (Dec 23, 2010)

Rookie1 said:


> Nice Roy but you better wait til you finish it to pull it behind the truck. LOL Ive wanted to build my own for years but I just cant find the time or money. Keep the pics coming.



Hi Rookie1,

My neighbor thought I was taking it someplace that day. He's keeping an eye on me because he has some nice big oak rounds that need splitting. I was setting the position for the pivots and checking the hitch height. I wouldn't want to take it anyplace until I get paint on it. Even then I don't know if I want to take my baby out on the salty roads. I've been saving parts since '06 and life has conspired to give me the time to work on it. I have been working on the placement of the valve and fitting hoses so more pics are on the way.

Roy


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## truckieL29 (Dec 23, 2010)

man that is one nice looking log splitter! great build quality!


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## Suz (Dec 24, 2010)

radroy92 said:


> I made the tongue long enough to have the tail gate downwith the splitter hitched up. I can swing the splitter completety one side, 90 degrees to the back bumper, and still be able to use the splitter.
> 
> The weight? There is a few pounds on it untill you put the cylinder in place then maybe, oh it has to be under 80 or 90 pounds. I mean I can lift it pretty easily.
> 
> Roy



Why I had said "watch the tongue weight" is to make sure you keep enough weight on the tongue. When I finished up the heavy foot on our flip up splitter there was too little weight on the tongue and it really started to sway back and forth at any speed over 45 mph. Now after some modifications I can travel at 65 and I don't even know the splitter is behind me.


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## stihl_in_texas (Dec 24, 2010)

radroy92 said:


> Here are some pics of making the base. I added some heavy wall rectangular tubing inside the base to keep it from bending and add some weight. The rest of the pics are examples of how I did the gussets on each end of the I-beam. I used 7018 rods for the first few passes. Then if I wanted better looking welds I went over them with 6013 rods.
> 
> Roy



If you're not already using them, try 7018 3/32" rods. Much easier to run, especially vertical up. Nice looking machine. Now hurry up so we can see it in action!:hmm3grin2orange:

Steve


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## hautions11 (Dec 24, 2010)

*Splitter*

hey Roy, Great job! I have a swisher 28 ton that uses a very similar wedge design, right down to the bolted plates that slide along and capture the I beam. Very strong. What I am contemplating is adding a wood tray next to the splitting area. This type of wedge mount does complicate that a bit. I had an old Case splitter before my Swisher and it had a nice 12" wide 18" long wood tray that allowed pieces to sit on it while splitting the rest of the log. Are you planning any sort of try or cradle on yours? I was curious if you where on how you might mount it. Again great job.


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## Suz (Dec 24, 2010)

*Mounting the control?*

Hi Roy,
Just another question about your mighty fine splitter. Where are you thinking about mounting the hydraulic control? 
My suggestion is to mount it right in the center over the ram so you can operate the control from either side.
It is sure nice not to have to worry about which side you have to work from when you are approaching a bunch of rounds you want to split. Also it is easier to reach the control when you are trying to split a big old ugly stick when the beam is in the vertical position.


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## radroy92 (Dec 25, 2010)

*Tongue weight*



Suz said:


> Why I had said "watch the tongue weight" is to make sure you keep enough weight on the tongue. When I finished up the heavy foot on our flip up splitter there was too little weight on the tongue and it really started to sway back and forth at any speed over 45 mph. Now after some modifications I can travel at 65 and I don't even know the splitter is behind me.



Hi Jim,

When the splitter is in horizontal mode the weight is definitely forward and on the tongue. I tried to find the best location for the pivot points considering where the weight would be. I didn't want it to be too heavy to lift up to vertical. Also I had to consider the beam height in horizontal so it wouldn't be to high or low. I built a horizontal splitter 24 years ago and it was too low. I always got a crick in my back when using it. So it's a splitter made by committee. But the weight is on the tongue. I'll see what happens when I take it out for a spin.

Thanks for the pointers!

Roy


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## radroy92 (Dec 25, 2010)

stihl_in_texas said:


> If you're not already using them, try 7018 3/32" rods. Much easier to run, especially vertical up. Nice looking machine. Now hurry up so we can see it in action!:hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> Steve



Hi Steve,

You know I was at the store looking for thicker rods today. I have to get over to my welding supply guy to get a good selection. I did have much better luck with the 6013 5/32 rods. They really put some bead down! Right now I only have 1/8 7018 rods.

Thanks for the tip!

Roy


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## radroy92 (Dec 25, 2010)

hautions11 said:


> hey Roy, Great job! I have a swisher 28 ton that uses a very similar wedge design, right down to the bolted plates that slide along and capture the I beam. Very strong. What I am contemplating is adding a wood tray next to the splitting area. This type of wedge mount does complicate that a bit. I had an old Case splitter before my Swisher and it had a nice 12" wide 18" long wood tray that allowed pieces to sit on it while splitting the rest of the log. Are you planning any sort of try or cradle on yours? I was curious if you where on how you might mount it. Again great job.




I am thinking of that too. I've seen several different ways to mount them. I think I could come off the side of the I-beam low enough to clear the wedge with supports. It's sort of like the little wood work table guys make to fit on their lathes. In that case it's a handy place for tools and what-not. But for the splitter a work surface like that will really save a lot of dropped logs and bending over. My back isn't what it used to be and then it's wasn't so good.
Ive got another question to answer about the mounting for the control valve. I'm going to post a pic of the way I did that and this idea could easily be adapted to the log table suport so have a look.

Thanks for the compliments and sharing ideas!

Roy

PS Merry Christmas too!


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## radroy92 (Dec 25, 2010)

*Control Valve location*



Suz said:


> Hi Roy,
> Just another question about your mighty fine splitter. Where are you thinking about mounting the hydraulic control?
> My suggestion is to mount it right in the center over the ram so you can operate the control from either side.
> It is sure nice not to have to worry about which side you have to work from when you are approaching a bunch of rounds you want to split. Also it is easier to reach the control when you are trying to split a big old ugly stick when the beam is in the vertical position.



Hi Jim,

Well here's another thing I put some thought into. As I mentioned in an earlier post my first splitter was too low. The beam was too low and the valve handle was too low. So.. crick in the back unless I worked in a sitting position. With that in mind I got out the C-clamps and some scrap metal and tried a few locations for the valve. I have a bad shoulder on one arm and a bad shoulder and elbow on the other. Any sort of high reaching or repetitive motion in a bad part of my arm's range of motion will cost me some pain and lost sleep soo....... I knew I had to put some testing into the valve location. What I came up with is the valve centered between the two ports of the cylinder and off to one side several inches and about level with the center of the cylinder. It's a compromise. I did have it located closer towards the wedge but then the hoses didn't line up so well. Actually considering the final location was partially decided by vanity or style it's still very comfortable..I think. I won't really know until I have used it for a few hours. That's why I decided to bolt the valve mount to the beam. If it's not so great I can always move it. I will end up being able to use in from one side onll when it's horizontal but that's no huge problem. It's on wheels! I think it's high enough so I can still get at the handle fairly well in vertical position with a huge round.

Thanks for the pointers!

Roy

Merry Christmas too!


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## radroy92 (Dec 25, 2010)

*Valve location thoughts*



Suz said:


> Hi Roy,
> Just another question about your mighty fine splitter. Where are you thinking about mounting the hydraulic control?
> My suggestion is to mount it right in the center over the ram so you can operate the control from either side.
> It is sure nice not to have to worry about which side you have to work from when you are approaching a bunch of rounds you want to split. Also it is easier to reach the control when you are trying to split a big old ugly stick when the beam is in the vertical position.



Hi Jim,

You know what would be cool? Some sort of mount like an articulated arm so you could swing the control valve from side to side or lock it in place at any point in-between. Or keep the valve in one place and have a sort of cable control. But how much work do I want to put into this?

I saw one of those table jobs on YouTube with a foot switch what looked like it was controling a solinoid valve. It was connected to a length of heavy wire cable and the operator could place it where he wanted it. That's cool too.

Roy


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## radroy92 (Dec 25, 2010)

*Valve mount log table or work table support*

Here are the pics of the valve mount and location. The arm coming off the beam could be modified to hold up a log/work table. Two of them would hold up any log you could lift.

Roy


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## radroy92 (Dec 25, 2010)

*1986 log splitter*

Here's a pic of my first attempt back in '86. I'm in the black teeshirt. Notice the bad ergonomics for the operator?

Roy


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## Blazin (Dec 25, 2010)

Lookin good!!


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## hautions11 (Dec 25, 2010)

*splitter*

That looks great Roy. I like the arm idea. I was originally thinking of a Brake formed plate. Get a local shop to bend it up for me. I was worried about deflection. Two arms and a heavy plate would be awesome! Keep up the good work and great pictures. Here is the splitter I used for the last 15 years. I sold the tractor/splitter combo this year and bought a used stand alone splitter. I miss the table.


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## radroy92 (Dec 25, 2010)

hautions11 said:


> That looks great Roy. I like the arm idea. I was originally thinking of a Brake formed plate. Get a local shop to bend it up for me. I was worried about deflection. Two arms and a heavy plate would be awesome! Keep up the good work and great pictures. Here is the splitter I used for the last 15 years. I sold the tractor/splitter combo this year and bought a used stand alone splitter. I miss the table.



That looks like it was a good setup. I like the double cut system. I had another idea about mounting the work table. Have the two arms come off the table and fit into square tube stubs on the I-beam. That way you could take it off when it's tipped up.

Thanks for the picture!

Roy


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## radroy92 (Dec 27, 2010)

*Similar build*

I just discovered this build by Woodsman44. Really nice! 

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=131550&highlight=

Roy


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## radroy92 (Jan 20, 2011)

*Adding 1/2" plate*

After deciding to change a few things to take some stress off the ram ( see http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/161431.htm ) I also decided to add a 1/2" plate to the top of the beam. So the project didn't die just had to get a new cylinder mounting design together. I'm also building a new wedge so pics will follow as I get to each new part.

Roy


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## jags (Jan 20, 2011)

Me likey!
Primo fab up and welding.


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## m37 (Jan 20, 2011)

Looking good.
I wanted to build one that tipped but I found a large I beam for free so that changed my mind.


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## radroy92 (Jan 21, 2011)

jags said:


> Me likey!
> Primo fab up and welding.


 
I was worried about warping that beautiful plate. I guessed at the length of weld and spacing and alternated the welds sort of like tightening head bolts. I used 7018 rods and got some good beads. I checked the plate before and after with a straight edge and I did no harm.

Thanks for the compliment!

Roy


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## radroy92 (Jan 21, 2011)

*Nice Build*



m37 said:


> Looking good.
> I wanted to build one that tipped but I found a large I beam for free so that changed my mind.



Nice build! That is some beam I can see why you kept it horizontal. I like the car wheels too. Did you make that oil tank?

Roy


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## radroy92 (Jan 21, 2011)

radroy92 said:


> Nice build! That is some beam I can see why you kept it horizontal. I like the car wheels too. Did you make that oil tank?
> 
> Roy



I just noticed the valve mounting. That's original. What's the square tube socket on the rear end used for?

Roy


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## m37 (Jan 21, 2011)

I did build the tank myself, the square tube is for my spare time carrier, I hate going somewhere with out a spare tire, I also have an umbrella that slides in to give some shade.
I think that you bottom plate looks like it will hold up.


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## radroy92 (Jan 22, 2011)

m37 said:


> I did build the tank myself, the square tube is for my spare time carrier, I hate going somewhere with out a spare tire, I also have an umbrella that slides in to give some shade.
> I think that you bottom plate looks like it will hold up.



Two great ideas! I think I'll add those to my splitter eventually.

Roy


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## radroy92 (Jan 22, 2011)

*Rear Cylinder Mount*

Here's some pics of the read cylinder mount so far.

Roy


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## AKKAMAAN (Jan 22, 2011)

radroy92 said:


> Here's some pics of the read cylinder mount so far.
> 
> Roy


 
Great fabrication work!!
I got a question...it looks like you use thicker steel in the footplate than the upper end plate???
If so, why's that??


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## sefh3 (Jan 22, 2011)

Great build. There are times where I wished I had a smaller splitter. I'm wondering how and where your controls will be mounted? Have you made it that far yet with that and I missed it?


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## sefh3 (Jan 22, 2011)

I'm wondering about that wedge that is welded on the cylinder. Do you think you have a strong enough weld on it to hold up after splitting some hard woods? It just looks like it's too thin. Not trying to bust your balls but you have alot of time on this and I would hate to see it bust after a half of cord of wood.


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## djones (Jan 22, 2011)

*homemade gems*

Both of the above splitters are looking fine but I prefer the vertical operations to the horizontal one any day of the week. I designed mine to be used either way but find that I can sit down for an hour with mine and not have to pick up heavy blocks. I just roll them onto the plate and split away all day long. Being older and having cronic back problems I find this saves my back from getting too stressed and allows me to split very large blocks of wood without having to lift them onto the splitter. As a one man operation I can go for about 30 minutes with out having to restock the pile. Any easier and I'd have my wife doing it. Sorry no pictures available at this time, 2 1/2 feet of snow cover the splitter at the moment.


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## radroy92 (Jan 22, 2011)

AKKAMAAN said:


> Great fabrication work!!
> I got a question...it looks like you use thicker steel in the footplate than the upper end plate???
> If so, why's that??



The foot or base plate is about 2" thick and is built up from an outer piece of channel into which some very heavy rectangular tubing has been welded.

The plate on the rear of the beam is 3/4" and it will be braced by the rest of the clevis mount for the rear of the cylinder.

Roy


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## radroy92 (Jan 22, 2011)

sefh3 said:


> Great build. There are times where I wished I had a smaller splitter. I'm wondering how and where your controls will be mounted? Have you made it that far yet with that and I missed it?



I think I did post some pics of that but here are a couple.

Roy


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## radroy92 (Jan 22, 2011)

sefh3 said:


> I'm wondering about that wedge that is welded on the cylinder. Do you think you have a strong enough weld on it to hold up after splitting some hard woods? It just looks like it's too thin. Not trying to bust your balls on this and I would hate to see it bust after a half of cord of wood.



I assume you are talking about the recent pics. Nothing on that end of the cyl. is welded yet. I was just setting the pieces up to take some measurements. The wedge will be connected to the end of the end of the ram with a pretty conventional clevis mount. My stones are intact.

Roy


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## WidowMaker (Jan 22, 2011)

djones said:


> Both of the above splitters are looking fine but I prefer the vertical operations to the horizontal one any day of the week. I designed mine to be used either way but find that I can sit down for an hour with mine and not have to pick up heavy blocks. I just roll them onto the plate and split away all day long. Being older and having cronic back problems I find this saves my back from getting too stressed and allows me to split very large blocks of wood without having to lift them onto the splitter. As a one man operation I can go for about 30 minutes with out having to restock the pile. Any easier and I'd have my wife doing it. Sorry no pictures available at this time, 2 1/2 feet of snow cover the splitter at the moment.



===

Build yourself a log lift and you'll never go verticle again...from another old man with a bad back...


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## radroy92 (Jan 22, 2011)

djones said:


> Both of the above splitters are looking fine but I prefer the vertical operations to the horizontal one any day of the week. I designed mine to be used either way but find that I can sit down for an hour with mine and not have to pick up heavy blocks. I just roll them onto the plate and split away all day long. Being older and having cronic back problems I find this saves my back from getting too stressed and allows me to split very large blocks of wood without having to lift them onto the splitter. As a one man operation I can go for about 30 minutes with out having to restock the pile. Any easier and I'd have my wife doing it. Sorry no pictures available at this time, 2 1/2 feet of snow cover the splitter at the moment.



I hear ya. Nobody is getting younger just smarter. I can't wait to try it in tip-up mode. I'd be working on it right now but I'm heading out to relatives today. You guys out east are really getting slammed with the snow this season. We just got another dusting here by Chicago.

Roy


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## radroy92 (Jan 22, 2011)

WidowMaker said:


> ===
> 
> Build yourself a log lift and you'll never go verticle again...from another old man with a bad back...



My first splitter was horizontal and way too low. Even the control valve was too low. I used to get a crick in my back just operating the valve. This new splitter takes my past bad experiences into account. The top of the beam is 34" from the ground when it's in horizontal position. The control handle is about 44" off the ground. When is vertical position the control valve is in a comfortable position too for either standing or sitting. I'll be adding a work shelf on at least one side of the beam for splitting the little stuff. The big one can roll in place.

Roy


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## AKKAMAAN (Jan 22, 2011)

radroy92 said:


> The foot or base plate is about 2" thick and is built up from an outer piece of channel into which some very heavy rectangular tubing has been welded.
> 
> The plate on the rear of the beam is 3/4" and it will be braced by the rest of the clevis mount for the rear of the cylinder.
> 
> Roy


OK....I could see the braces on the new pic's you posted. Should be good enough. 
Since the force from cylinder will be the same in both ends, it would make sense using same size steel. But you got around that with those nice braces. 

I would really like to see you manufacture a processor for me....LOL...


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## m37 (Jan 22, 2011)

WidowMaker said:


> ===
> 
> Build yourself a log lift and you'll never go verticle again...from another old man with a bad back...


 
I am looking at designs for a log lift/shelf


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## radroy92 (Jan 23, 2011)

AKKAMAAN said:


> OK....I could see the braces on the new pic's you posted. Should be good enough.
> Since the force from cylinder will be the same in both ends, it would make sense using same size steel. But you got around that with those nice braces.
> 
> I would really like to see you manufacture a processor for me....LOL...



I'm not using those braces from the earlier pics. I have another idea. I'll have some pictures up soon. 

Roy


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## pws (Jan 23, 2011)

djones said:


> Both of the above splitters are looking fine but I prefer the vertical operations to the horizontal one any day of the week. I designed mine to be used either way but find that I can sit down for an hour with mine and not have to pick up heavy blocks. I just roll them onto the plate and split away all day long. Being older and having cronic back problems I find this saves my back from getting too stressed and allows me to split very large blocks of wood without having to lift them onto the splitter. As a one man operation I can go for about 30 minutes with out having to restock the pile. Any easier and I'd have my wife doing it. Sorry no pictures available at this time, 2 1/2 feet of snow cover the splitter at the moment.


 
i totally agree with you i much prefer to sit behind my splitter especially if i'm doing 4' rings


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## WidowMaker (Jan 24, 2011)

pws said:


> i totally agree with you i much prefer to sit behind my splitter especially if i'm doing 4' rings




===

As an old man with a bad back there is not way I'm wresling a 4 ft round, even though my lift will easily lift them. I noodle them in 1/2 or 1/4s handle.

With a good lift your wife could easily do most of the splitting...


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## djones (Jan 24, 2011)

WidowMaker said:


> ===
> 
> As an old man with a bad back there is not way I'm wresling a 4 ft round, even though my lift will easily lift them. I noodle them in 1/2 or 1/4s handle.
> 
> With a good lift your wife could easily do most of the splitting...


 
if wife does the work then what am I supposed to do ?? Drink beer nad fill the wagon ?? Hmmmm could be worse.


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## fireman1293 (Jan 30, 2011)

Here's just a thought. I bought a splitter that the cutting wedge had a back cut on the bevel side. Like this / it kept the logs from riding up when dealing with un-square cuts. It worked great in preventing this, it also helped with you would get a tough piece to split. It almost grabs ahold of the wood, sharpening it also allows you to shove in onto the wedge and keeps it from falling off your I-beam. Good luck.


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## radroy92 (Apr 2, 2011)

*More work on clevis*

After a long delay I got back to working on the clevis mount. It's tacked together as of last night. I had to a piece on top of the end plate just to make things look better. I'll grind/sand it down and nobody will ever know. ;-)

Roy


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## moose5180 (Apr 2, 2011)

Man that is looking good, i have been kicking around the idea of building one instead of buying one. This has me chompin' at the bit to get started now.


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## radroy92 (Apr 4, 2011)

bfunk13 said:


> Man that is looking good, i have been kicking around the idea of building one instead of buying one. This has me chompin' at the bit to get started now.



Thanks! Did you see this build? http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/131550.htm This guy really did a nice job.

Roy


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## radroy92 (Apr 17, 2011)

*Clevis Done*

I hade some problems with damp 7018 rods making some really bad welds. I finally baked the rods a couple of times and got much better welds. So after a lot of fooling around the clevis mount is done!

Roy


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## TJ-Bill (Apr 17, 2011)

Nice work!! it's looking pretty good. reminds me that there's some changes to mine I wanted to make..


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## radroy92 (Apr 17, 2011)

*New Wedge Parts*

I started work on the new wedge today. Most of the parts are done and ready for welding. This one will have a clevis to give it a little more flexibility and a larger slide to keep the wedge from tipping.

Roy


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## mizzou (Apr 18, 2011)

Just went through the entire thread, looks great.


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## radroy92 (Apr 25, 2011)

*Making Shoes and Welding Slide and Clevis*

I made up the tricky parts of the slide. I added a wear strip on the shoes. It's tack welded all around for easy replacement. The slide design had to have pocket welds to make strong welds and keep them out of the way. I did some grinding and sanding to make a smooth surface after welding. I made up spacers to leave some play between the wedge and the clevis.

Roy


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## radroy92 (Apr 25, 2011)

Here's the rest of the pics.


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## Rookie1 (Apr 25, 2011)

Nice job Roy. Im impressed with your welding skills every time I see your pics.


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## richv70 (Apr 25, 2011)

Very nice work, you are a craftsman!


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## jags (Apr 26, 2011)

Yes, your work is quite first class. (and you ain't afraid of using metal:msp_tongue


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## radroy92 (Apr 27, 2011)

*Thanks*

Thanks for the comments guys! 

Yeah the welding has been a steep re-learning curve. Boy what ever you do don't let your E7018 rods get damp. Not even wet just the dampness of the air. I still have some problems with the rods but usually only on the start of the bead. Lots of little holes all through the weld as I grind the bad sections off. I'll only buy what I need of those rods from now on. 

I wasn't happy with my welds a while ago and so I sat down with the rod chart, some scrap steel and did nothing but weld and try different settings: dc +-, AC and all different Amp settings for a whole afternoon. I asked a welder how to get an idea of where to set the Amps for this and that thickness of steel and this and that sort of weld and different rods and his answer was "hood time". I agree.

As far as using steel..... well I have been saving it for this project for a while and got most of it for free (beams, square tubing) and the stuff I paid for (plate) I got at 65 cents a pound. The new cylinder mounts and wedge are much heavier and better than my early plans because of recomendations I got from this group. Also it's much easier to put the heavy stuff together. Even multi-pass welds have little warping effects on the 3/4 steel plate. I hope that I won't have any problems because of the redesigned parts but you never know. The first one I built was much lighter steel and all the welds were 6013 rods. No welds ever failed. But it had a 3" cylinder.

Thanks again, Roy


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## radroy92 (Apr 27, 2011)

*Tools used*

BTW in case your thinking I have this awesome shop filled with tools... don't.

I'm working with Harbor Freight 4" hand grinders, a portable band saw (Milwaukee) I picked up at the flea market, asian drill press, 3/8 electric drill, steel square, tape measure, assorted hand tools and a vise bolted to a steel milk crate. I use plastic milk crates for everything: seats, work supports, tool carriers, mini work benches etc.

The big ticket item was the Lincoln Precision TIG 225 I bough a few years back. I bought the parts and made up the electrode cable to use it in stick mode. I'll be using TIG mode on the oil tank.

Roy


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## jags (Apr 27, 2011)

Sweet! Nobody says that ya have to have the latest laser guided plasma powered gadgetry to do a good job. Time and craftsmanship can go along ways.


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## radroy92 (Apr 28, 2011)

*Wedge done!*

I had to make up a special pin because of the tight clearence inside the wedge. Had some trouble with the old shaft I used for the pin. It was case hardened and it cut all right. I had some trouble drilling the hole for the spring pin.

Roy


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## radroy92 (Apr 28, 2011)

*Wedge done*

More wedge pics.


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## rancher2 (Apr 30, 2011)

Nice work. I would put some more braces on those wings or you will probably bend them on a tough piece of wood.


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## arlen (May 1, 2011)

*Nce Job*

Roy you are an incredible welder fabricator. I have no talent in that area. Thanks for sharing this picture rich tread. 

What size is the cylinder and the rod?

Thanks rep sent for great post David


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## radroy92 (May 14, 2011)

rancher2 said:


> Nice work. I would put some more braces on those wings or you will probably bend them on a tough piece of wood.


 
Yeah I was looking into that. I had it braced good on my first wedge but I don't want to get in the way of pulling the spring pin. I'll fit something in there. The 1-1/8 pin actually does help with some support.

Roy


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## radroy92 (May 14, 2011)

arlen said:


> Roy you are an incredible welder fabricator. I have no talent in that area. Thanks for sharing this picture rich tread.
> 
> What size is the cylinder and the rod?
> 
> Thanks rep sent for great post David



Hi David,

Thanks a bunch!! 4" cyl. with 2" ram. Found it in a dumpster!

Roy


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## radroy92 (Jan 2, 2012)

*Tip-Up Splitter Finally Done !!!!!!!!!!*

Well it's been a while ......... I ran into all sorts of problems with metal, shielding gas, weld cracks, etc. and took some time off the project here and there but I put a push on last week and had it running and splitting New Year's Eve!!!!! I've got one small oil leak at the suction fitting on the used 16 gal. pump but it's pretty minor. I attached some pics of it sitting in the garage. I'll get some splitting action pics up soon. Sorry it's only in primer, I'll get a coat of yellow on it some time.

Roy


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## olyman (Jan 2, 2012)

radroy92 said:


> Well it's been a while ......... I ran into all sorts of problems with metal, shielding gas, weld cracks, etc. and took some time off the project here and there but I put a push on last week and had it running and splitting New Year's Eve!!!!! I've got one small oil leak at the suction fitting on the used 16 gal. pump but it's pretty minor. I attached some pics of it sitting in the garage. I'll get some splitting action pics up soon. Sorry it's only in primer, I'll get a coat of yellow on it some time.
> 
> Roy



i read the whole thread..i hope,,your ground out,,all the old welds,,that had been welded with the wet 7018,,and rewelded with the dry rod..7018,,can lose 50% of its strength,,with any moisture to speak of in the rod..thats why bridge welders,carry a closed rod holder,,when they weld on a bridge..thats also why you were getting porosity..they have to be kept dry,,and after so many times of opening the rod holder,,they go back into a hot oven to dry them back out..


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## radroy92 (Jan 2, 2012)

*Welding*



olyman said:


> i read the whole thread..i hope,,your ground out,,all the old welds,,that had been welded with the wet 7018,,and rewelded with the dry rod..7018,,can lose 50% of its strength,,with any moisture to speak of in the rod..thats why bridge welders,carry a closed rod holder,,when they weld on a bridge..thats also why you were getting porosity..they have to be kept dry,,and after so many times of opening the rod holder,,they go back into a hot oven to dry them back out..



Yes I did. I took a welding class at the local community college and got informed. Keep E7018 in rod oven 250 degrees F, preheat thicker metal before welding, multipass welds, etc. 

I had a problem with toe cracks on the plate to I-beam welds. Our best guess is the plate is high carbon (surplus find). Ground out all the cracked welds and deeper. Re-welded with MG-600 specialty rod for welding dissimilar steels (90 to 100 PSI-TS) with 400 degree perheat. Everything looks good now. Should be a nice long wearing plate.

Thanks for the info. and thanks for slogging through the whole thread!

Roy


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## fordracer (Jan 3, 2012)

Very nice job radroy.


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## radroy92 (Jan 4, 2012)

*Splitting!*



fordracer said:


> Very nice job radroy.




Thanks FR! I upgraded to a used 8 horse engine with a 16 GPM pump mid-project. I'm glad I did I like the speed. I think the original 5 horse engine and 11 GPM pump would have been too slow.

I worked out by the garage yesterday clearing some logs off the driveway see attached pics.

Roy


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## fordracer (Jan 5, 2012)

radroy92 said:


> Thanks FR! I upgraded to a used 8 horse engine with a 16 GPM pump mid-project. I'm glad I did I like the speed. I think the original 5 horse engine and 11 GPM pump would have been too slow.
> 
> I worked out by the garage yesterday clearing some logs off the driveway see attached pics.
> 
> Roy



Mine is 9 hp with a 16 gpm pump and the cycle time is 14 seconds,keeps me busy when im doing it by myself,lol.


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## radroy92 (Jan 16, 2012)

*Action Pics*

I got a few good days in before the snow came. It's been working fine. Had a couple leaks that were easy to fix. Frozen Bur Oak really pops!

Roy


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## radroy92 (Jan 16, 2012)

*A Few More Pics*

Here's more pics before and after it snowed.

Roy


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## bubba3228 (Jan 16, 2012)

You gotta be proud of that machine, very nice work.


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## radroy92 (Jan 17, 2012)

*I am!*



bubba3228 said:


> You gotta be proud of that machine, very nice work.



You betcha! I don't know what I expected maybe a break-in preiod or something but it just works. Some minor easily fixed leaks and the air worked it's way out of the oil after one run. After all the hard work building it, it seems too easy. But I'll take it.

Thanks,

Roy


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## firewood guy (Jan 17, 2012)

*Great Job!*

As a fellow welder/fabricator my hat is off to you in that many people can either envision or build , but not too many get-er-done! Great pics, you have helped me in my project motivation...


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## radroy92 (Jan 17, 2012)

firewood guy said:


> As a fellow welder/fabricator my hat is off to you in that many people can either envision or build , but not too many get-er-done! Great pics, you have helped me in my project motivation...



I'm glad to be of service! I needed a lot of motivation myself!

Roy


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## Blazin (Jan 17, 2012)

Nice Build!!


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## radroy92 (Jan 17, 2012)

*Thanks*



Blazin said:


> Nice Build!!



Thanks Blazin!


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Jan 17, 2012)

*nice work*

Nice fabrication and work on this post. Keep the pics coming!


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## radroy92 (Jan 29, 2012)

*Wedge Mods*

The 1/4" plates on the spreader part of the wedge started to bend in from splitting nasty logs. It only moved about 1/8" but it would probably get worse. So I added some 3/4 x 3/4 bars to stiffen the back edge. There really isn't a lot of room to add cross braces so this was my other option.

Roy


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## radroy92 (Jan 29, 2012)

*Wedge Mods 2*

Just some pics after welding and grinding and testing on a few logs.

Roy


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