# Some questions for Central Boiler owners



## Jon E (Mar 17, 2009)

Hey all you CB owners:

I've been somewhat lax in care and maintenance of my CB5648 - been running it for about 2-1/2 years now. I've read in some other threads about draining water and scraping out the firebox for summer months, but my problem is that I have to run mine year round, as it is a dual-fuel model and is my only source of heat for hot water. When I first put water in this thing, I tested the pH and it was already in the 'acceptable' range, so I didn't put any of their chemical in the water. My water is extremely hard well water so it goes through a water softener first. I can't imagine there'd be problems but do any of you think I should be using their 'inhibitor' anyway?

I don't use the Ashtrol either, although I have a bucket of it that came with the boiler. Does it do anything? Or am I just tossing $$$ in the firebox?

Any other things I should be considering for routine maintenance for a unit that runs all the time? Door gasket - how do you tell if you need a new one? Mine seems to be OK, if I can make that assumption based on the fact that it's not leaking smoke. Should the door be taken apart to clean the solenoid and damper?


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## sorethumbs (Mar 17, 2009)

You didn't add the corrosion inhibitor? Is this a boiler plate model?

If so, YES YOU NEED IT! The inhibitor work to stop rust by adjusting the nitrate level. The pH is also important, but only because the nitrates can only work between a certin pH range.

Is this post a joke that I fell for? How could a dealer let you buy a unit without informng you of this?


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## Jon E (Mar 17, 2009)

No, no joke. My 'dealer' sucks. That's why I'm asking, because I'm learning things from people on this forum that I should have been told when I bought the unit.


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## sneno77 (Mar 17, 2009)

When I got our 5036 last fall, the dealer was very clear, as well as the owners manual, that the 25yr warrenty would be voided if we didn't add the proper amount of inhibitor at the initial start up. Too bad your dealer sucks..


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## Jon E (Mar 17, 2009)

If you drain the water completely and add inhibitor with a fresh fill of water, would it make a difference? I ask because I've probably boiled off six or eight fillings worth of water in the past couple years, owing to a stuck damper or a too-high setpoint. So the water I started with isn't the water I have now.


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## mtfallsmikey (Mar 17, 2009)

I'm getting ready to change water after shutdown for summer, add a fresh shot of CB inhibitor, and a touch of biocide I use in the cooling towers here at work. I also will start and run the boiler circs. every couple of days or so for 10-15 min. just to keep things circulated.


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## windthrown (Mar 17, 2009)

If you run a mild steel boiler without corrosion inhibitor in hard/softened water I would guess that your steel plates are about 1/4 the way rusted through already. RUST INHIBITOR IS MANDATORY IN A CENTRAL BOILER UNIT. Did you not read the installation book? 

The rest of the stuff does not really matter in comparison. I did all the shut-down stuff the first couple of years, but the creosote and ash does not cause much problem on the inside of the firebox as long as there is no water buildup in there. Last year I just scraped down the creosote and let it burn hot for a day and shut it off for the summer, and left an inch of ash in there. If you run the thing year round, you do not need to do much other than rake the ash pan and empty it out when the ash level gets to the bottom of the door, and sluff off the creosote when it builds up in the firebox. I never used Ashtrol; it is not needed. If you want a cheap replacement, get a bag of Ag lime at a feed store and use that. Same stuff. Not needed though. I changed the water out for the ex after 3 years of use, and it is good for another 3 years now. 

We had a bad controller and a stickey damper door in our unit the first year, and they were both replaced under warantee for free. The thing boiled over a few times, and the dealer gave us another gallon of corrosion inhibitor for free to replace what boiled over. The CB dealer here in Oregon is good. You need to repalce the controller if it is still boiling over. There are some threads here on AS that list where to get a OEM repalcement controller for half the price directly from the manufacture. 

Also what you NEED TO DO RIGHT NOW!!!!! is to drain that boiler of all the water, and replace it with fresh water. Then test the pH. Then dump in the right amount of corrosion inhibitor (get the CB stuff, it is some of the best stuff out there) and let it run for a day. Then test it again with the test kit to check the pH and nitrate levels. That will keep your system from corroding further. The rust damage that has been done already is done. No way to fix that.


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## sorethumbs (Mar 17, 2009)

windthrown said:


> There are some threads here on AS that list where to get a OEM repalcement controller for half the price directly from the manufacture.



How about a link to that? Also a replacement selinod, I'd like a spare, mine is buzzing something aweful.


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## windthrown (Mar 17, 2009)

sorethumbs said:


> How about a link to that? Also a replacement selinod, I'd like a spare, mine is buzzing something aweful.



They (solenoids) all buzz and clank. That's the way they work. If you have a bad controller that causes them to clank more and buzz louder, with more opening and closing all the time when the controller goes into spastic mode. That hyper-action can also bend the damper door. The damper door can be removed and straightened/flattened. Make sure that it is closing all the way and not bent, or you will get air leaks and it will boil over, even if the controller is working right. I also had to move the damper door setting from the top hole setting to the middle setting (where it should be). 

Link to the Dwyer site (Central Boiler controller maker): 

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/Product.cfm?Group_ID=125&Product_ID=289&sPageName=Ordering


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## Jon E (Mar 17, 2009)

What I remember reading, or being told, is that - if the pH was within an acceptable range, the inhibitor was not necessary. At the time I didn't understand that the chemical would protect the steel plate regardless of the water level or the pH. Unfortunately, I'm just now figuring that out.

If I hadn't joined this forum I'd still be blindly, happily burning away without worrying about the boiler rusting out.

Thanks for the help - it'll all be drained and fixed by this weekend.


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## windthrown (Mar 17, 2009)

Jon E said:


> What I remember reading, or being told, is that - if the pH was within an acceptable range, the inhibitor was not necessary. At the time I didn't understand that the chemical would protect the steel plate regardless of the water level or the pH. Unfortunately, I'm just now figuring that out.
> 
> If I hadn't joined this forum I'd still be blindly, happily burning away without worrying about the boiler rusting out.
> 
> Thanks for the help - it'll all be drained and fixed by this weekend.



pH is important but the NITRATE LEVEL is critical. Get a nitrate test kit if one was not provided with your boiler. Ours came with a test kit, with pH test strips and a nitrate test kit. It came in a blue box inside the side panel door. It is basically an acid-demand test with count drops, and the inverse of an total alkalinity test that you would do testing a Hot Tub. We also got a 3 quart bottle of corrosion inhibitor with instructions from the dealer to add that first and formost to the water after it was filled. Pour it into the overflow pipe at the top of the boiler. 1/2 to 2 jugs, depending oin the size of your boiler. You can look on the Central Boiler web site for more details.

By the way, some chemists did a review of the CB anti-corrosion stuff and they found that it was about as good a blend as you can find for protection for mild steel. I used to be an the MEN forum, and figured a lot of this stuff out there. But this site is more informed, and has saved my butt many times regarding chainsaws and how to fix and run them.


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## sorethumbs (Mar 17, 2009)

windthrown said:


> They (solenoids) all buzz and clank. That's the way they work. If you have a bad controller that causes them to clank more and buzz louder, with more opening and closing all the time when the controller goes into spastic mode. That hyper-action can also bend the damper door. The damper door can be removed and straightened/flattened. Make sure that it is closing all the way and not bent, or you will get air leaks and it will boil over, even if the controller is working right. I also had to move the damper door setting from the top hole setting to the middle setting (where it should be).
> 
> Link to the Dwyer site (Central Boiler controller maker):
> 
> http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/Product.cfm?Group_ID=125&Product_ID=289&sPageName=Ordering



Thanks! I have no functional problems at all, but my solenoid sucks. Somedays it'll buzz like a .22 shot into a hornets nest, somedays its just a barely noticable purr like that of a content kitty-cat. Needless to say the days of the hornet nest buzzing are driving me nuts.


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## mtfallsmikey (Mar 18, 2009)

Also...make sure you scrape the creosote off of the door, the door opening, lube the solenoid/linkage....
Remember, most OWB's are "open" systems, which are open to the atmosphere...oxygen kills metal, that's why you need to use the inhibitor.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 18, 2009)

sorethumbs said:


> Thanks! I have no functional problems at all, but my solenoid sucks. Somedays it'll buzz like a .22 shot into a hornets nest, somedays its just a barely noticable purr like that of a content kitty-cat. Needless to say the days of the hornet nest buzzing are driving me nuts.



My CB did that as well when I first got it. Take the cover off and adjust the solenoid till it stops buzzing. Simple alignment problem in my case and hasn't done it now for 6 years.


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## sorethumbs (Mar 18, 2009)

Kevin, can you describe how to adjust the solenoid? I have had the cover off and lubricated it with WD-40. That is what the dealer told be to do. He didn't mention anthing about adjustment. Thanks.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 18, 2009)

sorethumbs said:


> Kevin, can you describe how to adjust the solenoid? I have had the cover off and lubricated it with WD-40. That is what the dealer told be to do. He didn't mention anthing about adjustment. Thanks.



It has been 5 years but from memory I think there were 2 bolts that held the damper in place. I loosened them and moved it till it stopped buzzing when the solenoid was holding it open. It didn't take much. I don't know why Central doesn't check them before they leave the factory.


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## JAL (Mar 18, 2009)

Jon E said:


> No, no joke. My 'dealer' sucks. That's why I'm asking, because I'm learning things from people on this forum that I should have been told when I bought the unit.



I had the same problem dealer. I had to go to a dealer in Clairmont NH in order to get service. :chainsawguy:


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## minnisd (Feb 24, 2012)

*minnisd, 5648 owner*



sorethumbs said:


> Thanks! I have no functional problems at all, but my solenoid sucks. Somedays it'll buzz like a .22 shot into a hornets nest, somedays its just a barely noticable purr like that of a content kitty-cat. Needless to say the days of the hornet nest buzzing are driving me nuts.



Your solenoid is getting sticky. Solenoids make noise when they are not fully pulled in. A little WD40 on the plunger will work great and stop the buzzing. Also the heat build up in the solenoid from the buzzing can cause the solenoid to stick and cause it to hang up and the unit will overheat and boil over.


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