# Best chainsaw mill



## Newguy12358

Looking for recommendations for an alaskan mill or similar compact, portable chain saw mill. I would like to get a complete kit, 
(saw included if possible). Quality being the first priority. What are some of the things I should consider?
Thanks,
Rick


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## Timberframed

I highly recommend the Panthermill. I have gone through a thousand feet or more with this 4 post design without any problems. You can't beat the price! Kim is a member here. Where in New Jersey are you? John.


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## Newguy12358

Thanks John,
I live on the east side of jersey just south of Toms River. What size mill and saw are you using on average? I checked em out and I already like that they are made in the US. I might buy one just for that fact. Price can't be beat you are right.


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## hamish

Well you asked for the best........Logosol M7,,,,,,,,

IT all depends what your intentions are with it, best to start out small then take the jump, I have an alaskan small log mill, a home made mini mill, and a bandsaw mill. Still use all 3 on a regular basis as they all have pros and cons with them.


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## gemniii

Newguy12358 said:


> Looking for recommendations for an alaskan mill or similar compact, portable chain saw mill. I would like to get a complete kit,
> (saw included if possible). Quality being the first priority. What are some of the things I should consider?
> Thanks,
> Rick


 
You mention compact portable and quality.
Do you plan on moving the log or the mill?

With both the Panther and Logosol you give up a lot portability compared to an alaskan. 

If you've the tools and skills you could build one of BobL's designs and with a suitable saw (Stihl 660 or similar) you would have the ideal.

Tell us what you are going to mill.

The Alaskan has some weak points but for a store bought solution it's pretty good.


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## Talltom

If you're looking for a complete system, then Logosol is probably your best bet. You can get your mill, saw, bar and chains, as well as sharpening tools from the same source. They have several options available from the M7 ($$$)to the Timberjig ($). They have 2 saws to choose from and prices on bars and chains are very good. I bought an M5 mill 12 years ago, but if I had to do it again I'd get the Big Mill system. The M-5 is portable, but you need some room around the log to set it up. Big Mill system is more portable and needs less room. You can attach it to the log to cut it where it lays or you can make your own wooden mill stand and attach the guide rail to it for cutting at a more permanent site (easier on your back, too.) Good warranty and excellent support.

When comparing prices with a slabbing mill like the Alaskan, you need to add in the cost of a minimill or other edging set-up if you intend to make boards or timbers rather than just slabs.


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## Newguy12358

I plan on moving the mill. I have a few oaks that are going to come down and just want to slab em up. I have all the woodworking to square them up after that.


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## gemniii

Talltom said:


> When comparing prices with a slabbing mill like the Alaskan, you need to add in the cost of a minimill or other edging set-up if you intend to make boards or timbers rather than just slabs.


 
True, I have a circa 1960 Delta 10" table saw for edging my thick slabs, or just use a hand held 7 1/4 circular saw.

However one can always cut cants off to square the wood and then cut the beam down thinner.


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## hamish

gemniii said:


> True, I have a circa 1960 Delta 10" table saw for edging my thick slabs, or just use a hand held 7 1/4 circular saw.
> 
> However one can always cut cants off to square the wood and then cut the beam down thinner.



I sure to hope you are only edging after its dry, green wood loves to react and kick in a table saw or skilsaw.

When one looks at the logosol or carridge type mills they are simply rudimentary bsm powered by a chainsaw. Log stops and dogs provide the ability to edge and square timbers/lumber easily.


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## Talltom

A table saw is not a great tool for ripping large boards of rough lumber. It has a large surface for support, but the blade will bind if the board isn't flat. A bandsaw is more forgiving, but the table is too small to support the board. Fresh oak will also rust cast iron surfaces in no time. A circular saw with a guide on sawhorses with a sacrificial surface will work OK but has limited depth of cut. There's really no substitute for a milling set-up that can cut straight and square in two directions. I use my mill to rip and trim large pieces after they have dried as well.


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## hamish

*Best CSM by far*

I re-thought the op's original question.

The best chainsaw mill is the one you use, be it made of scrap wood or titanium. The best part is using it.


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## gemniii

hamish said:


> I re-thought the op's original question.
> 
> The best chainsaw mill is the one you use, be it made of scrap wood or titanium. The best part is using it.



Almost exactly.
I've been involved with computers since I worked at IBM, Burlington and they managed to put 3 transistors on a pad in about 1972. I've had a "pocket computer" (not just a calculator) since the HP 95 came out in '95. I advised the Army on computer purchases since about the same time. A computer is not any good if you can't use it. If you can pull it out of your pocket and get the job done, great. 
Likewise a sawmill is not any good if you can't afford it or get the wood to it. If you can buy or build a safe and accurate CSM or BSM you can get a lot more wood cut NOW rather than X years from now when you can buy "the best".


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## hamish

Kpantherpro.......nice designs, not questioning your product but the customer feedback, a csm will not cut faster or better than a bsm, in any wood or conditions. A dull or improperly sharpened chain will result in likewise performance of a dull, mis-set millband, or improperly tensioned millband.

Thing that work vary from place to place, acme and all thread are a near no-go in the winter months here,pulleys and cables work as do open faced gears. 

Operating cost is another factor, 28"bar and say 92DL, that chain cost me darn near the price of two millbands, fuel and bar oil use on say a 395 or 3120, at least half a litre per two cuts in average size wood of 16" diameter, my bsm, run all day on 5 litre and put out on a good day close to 1000bf and bar oil? whats that? a lil water and the odd cap of pinesol and away we go.

Factoring operating costs and usage changes alot of things. 

I like my csm, and bsm, carridge style csm doens not compute unless one already has a saw to run on it, or needs a highly portable (ie air/water and swamp kind of partability) with a bsm. Production and economic wise the bsm is they way to go dependant upon ones conditions.


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## gemniii

kpantherpro said:


> hey thought I'd chime in, first gemniii please look at the products I makeas I do a a few. my panthermill 2 is very similar to the alaskan.



Sorry, I was specifically refering to the Panther 4 post design mentioned by Timberframed,



> Timberframed
> I highly recommend the Panthermill. I have gone through a thousand feet or more with this 4 post design without any problems.


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## Timberframed

The four post design allows you to place multiple anti vibe beverage holders™ on the mill as being in a cloud of chips all day brings on a powerful thirst. I prefer this over letting off the throttle and walking away from the action.


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## twoclones

Newguy12358 said:


> I plan on moving the mill. I have a few oaks that are going to come down and just want to slab em up. I have all the woodworking to square them up after that.



I have 2 Alaskan mills and a Woodmizer. 
If I was going to mill "a few oaks", I'd hire someone with a portable bandsaw mill to come do the job. You won't need to square them up afterwards and you won't suffer vibration syndrome later. _{I made up the vibration syndrome name just now but I really do feel it if I use my Alaskan for very long.}_


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## Timberframed

I had already owned the saw for other purposes so I won't include it in what I shelled out. The mill, bar and chains was a whoppin' $380 all new stuff. The only way I know to cut 58" wide slabs. The lantern light will allow any out of true flat to show under the straightedge. Note that this is not a book match. The end cut was made when it was felled. End result.....





Note in this image the anti vibe handles I mounted on each end. I can mill all day or until I run out of liquids.


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## BlueRider

As some one who has done a bit of welding those panther mills are a good value for the price. that said there are some functional advantages that the Granberg has over the panther. 

On the Granberg the uprights are acurately stamped in 1/4" incraments which makes adjusting for the thickness of cut a snap. Also the spacer on the "U" clamp between the cast cross members and the uprights is beveled which makes it easy to adjust one end at a time without binding. Also the short cross supports between the rails are adjustable and this does come in handy on the larger sized mills. and last but by no means least the granberg is mostly aluminium.

FOr me that last one would be the deal breaker since I run an 075 with a 43" bar, any additional weight and I would not be able to handle without a helper.

Not bashing the Panhter mills and it is for each to decide if the differences I listed are worth the price difference.


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## Naked Arborist

*$$$*



Timberframed said:


> I had already owned the saw for other purposes so I won't include it in what I shelled out. The mill, bar and chains was a whoppin' $380 all new stuff. The only way I know to cut 58" wide slabs. The lantern light will allow any out of true flat to show under the straightedge. Note that this is not a book match. The end cut was made when it was felled. End result.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note in this image the anti vibe handles I mounted on each end. I can mill all day or until I run out of liquids.



What is that slab worth wholesale unfinished ?


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## sachsmo

One Meelion dollars?


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## stipes

Newguy12358 said:


> Looking for recommendations for an alaskan mill or similar compact, portable chain saw mill. I would like to get a complete kit,
> (saw included if possible). Quality being the first priority. What are some of the things I should consider?
> Thanks,
> Rick



Hi Rick....I have done alot with my Alaskan and I purchased a mini mill to go with it the same time..Now you have to realize I dont mill for a living,,and just for making lumber for my own use as my woodworking,,it's a great setup for me...
You can hunt on C/List and maybe find a decent chainsaw near you but for a alaskan I havent seen any on here in my area for sell for years...Heck few people around here in my area know what a CSM is...
Good luck to you and what ever you decide on,,enjoy and have a wonderfull day in the woods being by yourself or family....It is a good way for me to always relax and you will find out when you open a log up it's always a suprise........I just love workin with wood......


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## redoakneck

Stihl 088 chainsaw with 50'' Bar


here you go!!!


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## redoakneck

If that saw even starts that is a great deal. The saw looks beat and is missing the handle from the pic, but you could easily modify it to work.



With chainsaw mills you want a BIG saw!!!


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## redoakneck

I have a 36" alaskan with an 088. I like it. Not cheap and it is work, but I can mill about anything up to 31".

I would take a good look at that combo deal, the 088 is easy to work on. The 50" bar, chain and mill is worth 3-4 hundred e-z if it isn't trashed!!!


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## Timberframed

I have NO issues with the older panthermill whatsoever. They work hands down. Just one little thing....place the bar clamp bolts up. This way we don't need a tranny jack or roll it over to loosen/tighten and during transport we won't need to block it up as it will rock and roll. Minor infraction. Just another blather. Where are the "Proudly made in the USA" stamps on these mill frames?????? And the Panthermill badge???? Brookville, FL.??? A good Veteran's day to ya'll.


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## betterbuilt

I thought I took a picture here it is. 











I had this fixed and about a week later the other side broke. I'm sure it has to do with over tightening but it is what it is.


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## Timberframed

Kim, you have to know I'm only busting on you for you and I go back some time. Your mill frames truly need no further modifications that we can't do on our own as we adjust,to our own needs. After today's efforts at the University Of Pennsylvania's Morris Arboretum your fabricating skills + the knowledge you posses in milling have spoken for themselves. Be prepared for big orders! Good job amigo!


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