# Post your helpful chainsaw/cutting tips and tricks.



## Arrowhead (Jan 5, 2010)

Sometimes the simplest little technique makes life a lot easier when it comes to working on or cutting with chainsaws. If you "discovered" something simple that helps out, post it. Even if you think think its minor or if you think everybody else is already doing it, who cares, post it. I'm sure everybody had that _why didn't I think of that earlier_ thought before. Whether its tools or techniques. A couple small things I do when I cut are, I use a plastic milk crate for my gas can, gallon of bar oil, and I save empty gear lube bottles for bar oil. They all fit in the crate nicely. The gear lube bottles are easy to fill at home from the gallon, and are great to use when filling the saw in the woods, no mess. When I cut I pull a 14' wood trailer with me. Where I cut there are a lot of cornfields and wood lots, so after the fields are picked I can usually get the truck and trailer close to where I'm working. I mounted a portable air tank on the tongue of the trailer with about 5 feet of hose and a blowgun on the end. This will reach the tailgate where I like to gas and oil. I use the blow gun to clean all the saw dust away from the filler caps before I open them. It does not take much air and will last all day. Yes, very minor things, but they help.


----------



## Freehand (Jan 5, 2010)

I carry an ammo can with me that has:

No less than 4 extra,sharp chains,

A couple of bottles of ultra

Both flavors of screnches

T-handle t-27 torx

Tuning screwdriver

Comp. gage

Extra torx bolts and bar nuts

Files

Strong neyodyminium magnet for finding wayward parts in the grass

Assorted small hand tools



All in an airtight case that you can throw in the back of the truck without worry of dampness or loss.


----------



## Arrowhead (Jan 5, 2010)

freehandslabber said:


> I carry an ammo can with me that has:
> 
> No less than 4 extra,sharp chains,
> 
> ...



Great ideas, I really like the magnet idea. I will be putting one in the tool box.


----------



## Chaz1 (Jan 5, 2010)

I also use the differential bottles for bar oil. It's a must have! No more mess. They're perfect.


----------



## constantine (Jan 5, 2010)

Arrowhead said:


> Great ideas, I really like the magnet idea. I will be putting one in the tool box.



+1
The magnet really makes sense.

I like to take a little squirt bottle of bar oil with me, as well as one of those bar channel cleaners. When changing chains, I scrape the bar channel clean and give it a shot of oil before the new, sharp chain goes on.


----------



## sefh3 (Jan 5, 2010)

I run a plastic Craftsman tool box that carries all the above but I put my tach in there also just incase I need it.

I like the air tank idea. Is it mounted permanately? Just wondering what you do in the cold so the tank doesn't obtain water?


----------



## GlenM (Jan 5, 2010)

I also use a milk crate with squeeze bottles for oil, also, carry an old paint brush to clean caps and surrounding areas before refill, and carry small funnel in ziploc bag to make easier gas fill......


----------



## HighGuy (Jan 5, 2010)

I have made my own screnches (if you weld) that have a long sturdy screwdriver shaft (for gas and oil caps) with a 3/8 socket adapter perpendicular in the middle of my scrench (to accept sockets for spark plug and chain tensioners) and at the other end of screwdriver blade (grinded/ cut off end) I weld on a drill apex (for hex, allen, small flat and #2 philips bits, custom welded file bits I made to fit it). Keep a pouch on you, for sockets and bits when in the air and/or a small, say 11" x 4" x 2" box to hold just about anything you would need for normal fixes, instead of a tackle box worth.
--Side bar-- I bought a couple of the TopSaw Multi-tools.... great idea, just made real cheaply. Things like the fold out screwdriver, was like tin and the allen was twisted and bent at the working end(brand new). China made?
I will still keep my system to use with the TopSaw and see which works best and/or longest. ( I may lose parts interchanging, on my system... But I made mine. It's not going to brake with the quality of parts I used/welded together)--

The tackle box of chains and larger items stays by the gas and bar oil. If you pack into spots or get far from the trailer, a canvas type, encased tackle box with shoulder strap or backpack frees up one hand/arm. Tie a chord on a gallon of oil to hook over the gas spout. With this set up I can strap an axe on the backpack with all the tools and wedges inside, saw in one hand, gas and oil in the other, PPE on head, go balanced and comfortable, if need be anywhere. Light and fully supplied. -- you can load a couple of gear lube bottles with the bar oil and they'll carry easier than a gallon bottle, also/if need be.

Everyone trial and errors their own system to work in their world. If you take anything away from this, " Glad to here it! or help!"


----------



## WadePatton (Jan 5, 2010)

sawchain trumps all. (just something to remember).

now on to the tools/tricks...

yes, surplus metal ammo cans are the best. i'm using them for more and more things. take some time and make organizers for 'em. 

i need a handy way to keep my tuning fork (small screwdriver) handy whilst bundled up and sawing. keep "losing" it in my pocket and don't want to knock it off/out of external scabbord...any ideas?

here's another one that someone may have a good solution for--helmet stowage. darn thing is in the way all the time i'm not wearing it. i've learned to fold the ear cups back but... 

been sawing osage orange for three days in this negative heat wave...

oh and i use a bicycle freewheel cleaning brush--like toothbrush only narrower with longer bristles. like this one only not so expensive: this is "pedros"


----------



## WadePatton (Jan 5, 2010)

HighGuy said:


> I have made my own screnches (if you weld) that have a long sturdy screwdriver shaft (for gas and oil caps) with a 3/8 socket adapter perpendicular in the middle of my scrench (to accept sockets for spark plug and chain tensioners) and at the other end of screwdriver blade (grinded/ cut off end) I weld on a drill apex (for hex, allen, small flat and #2 philips bits, custom welded file bits I made to fit it). Keep a pouch on you, for sockets and bits when in the air and/or a small, say 11" x 4" x 2" box to hold just about anything you would need for normal fixes, instead of a tackle box worth.
> --Side bar-- I bought a couple of the TopSaw Multi-tools.... great idea, just made real cheaply. Things like the fold out screwdriver, was like tin and the allen was twisted and bent at the working end(brand new). China made?
> I will still keep my system to use with the TopSaw and see which works best and/or longest. ( I may lose parts interchanging, on my system... But I made mine. It's not going to brake with the quality of parts I used/welded together)--
> 
> ...



hey man, thanks for the h/u on the multi-tool, and for reminding me to make my own. if that's the tool that bailey's sells, do everyone a favor and rate it on their online catalog. the other rater says--it's heavy duty and no-nonsense engineered...5 stars. bah.


----------



## Mike PA (Jan 5, 2010)

For your tuning screwdriver, get one with a pocket clip and keep it in a shirt pocket. Or, drill a hole in the handle, attach a loop of cord and a cheap carabiner to hook on your belt loops. Helmet goes on a gun rack.


----------



## gwiley (Jan 5, 2010)

I use a tool belt with a hatchet ($17 from lowes) in a framing hammer loop and a pouch with my felling wedges. It is soooo nice to not have to dig in my pockets for the wedges. The hatchet is priceless for sounding wood and driving wedges.

Keep all my small stuff in a 14" nylon pouch with zipper from northern tool, contents are:

- chain files are in drinking straws to keep them from rubbing and dulling.
- small bottle of whiteout to mark the link that I start with when filing
- stump vise
- raker files wrapped in paper
- screnches
- depth gauges

A separate first aid kit in a red lunch box in the truck includes the regular stuff plus a maxi-pad for heavy injuries and an epi-pen for when the hornets and bees get overly friendly.


----------



## PasoRoblesJimmy (Jan 5, 2010)

I use a plastic milk crate to hold my trimmer and chainsaw stuff. I put Rubbermaid containers inside of it to hold the smaller loose bits. Ammo cans look like a great idea as well.


----------



## kevin j (Jan 5, 2010)

i need a handy way to keep my tuning fork (small screwdriver) handy whilst bundled up and sawing. keep "losing" it in my pocket and don't want to knock it off/out of external scabbord...any ideas?




the ones from electrical supply houses ('tweakers', for adjusting electronic boards etc) usually have a pocket clip. Those were still a bit too small and delicate so I have another long bladed tweaker that I just taped a wooden spring type clothespin to the handle. That is big enough for clamping on thick pockets or suspender places.


----------



## WadePatton (Jan 5, 2010)

yeah, the little clip is too frail for heavy work clothes. like the lanyard idea.

also, i've not used them yet, but i'm sawing out wedges from the stumps of the osage. report later.


----------



## Storm56 (Jan 5, 2010)

I always take a second saw or at least an extra bar and chain in case I stick one. Hey guys we all do now and again. Saved my bacon a couple of times.


----------



## HighGuy (Jan 5, 2010)

I usually wear Carhartt carpenter jeans climbing and the tweaker/screwdriver is on lanyard is the side thigh pocket. Never in my way and the lanyard to painters loop in case it tries to run away. 
I have see a rubber hose attached to gaff sides for the tweaker, that they said it "might" fall out, maybe 1 in 50 trees.

Just a few ideas.


----------



## gwiley (Jan 5, 2010)

Storm56 said:


> I always take a second saw or at least an extra bar and chain in case I stick one. Hey guys we all do now and again. Saved my bacon a couple of times.



I always have 2 saws with me - wouldn't think of spending the fuel and time to go to a cutting site without a backup saw. Used to be 2 Husky 350, now I usually take the 350 and 372.

Don't forget your splitting tools if you don't have other equipment - I have run into rounds that are just too big to muscle into the truck.


----------



## HighGuy (Jan 5, 2010)

I always take a second saw or at least an extra bar and chain in case I stick one. Hey guys we all do now and again. Saved my bacon a couple of times. 


That's a given, at my base area!

I have no problem saying it, either! -lol-


----------



## olyeller (Jan 5, 2010)

WadePatton said:


> here's another one that someone may have a good solution for--helmet stowage. darn thing is in the way all the time i'm not wearing it. i've learned to fold the ear cups back but...
> 
> 
> Not sure what you mean by stowage. If you mean carrying it while not wearing it, try hanging it by a carabiner, maybe plus a short loop of paracord if you need an extension.


----------



## Arrowhead (Jan 5, 2010)

sefh3 said:


> I like the air tank idea. Is it mounted permanately? Just wondering what you do in the cold so the tank doesn't obtain water?



No, its not permanate. I made some brackets I welded to the trailer. The feet on the tank are looped, I slide the tank on the brackets, then use a ratchet strap to secure.


----------



## gwiley (Jan 5, 2010)

My tool belt with hatchet and wedges, chaps, gloves, vest and helmet are all in a gym bag that I grab when I go. After a cutting day I lay everything out to dry then pack it away until next weekend.


----------



## lone wolf (Jan 5, 2010)

pullstart cord ,lighter, knife extra pullstart assembley.


----------



## WadePatton (Jan 5, 2010)

olyeller said:


> WadePatton/olyeller said:
> 
> 
> > here's another one that someone may have a good solution for--helmet stowage... /
> ...


----------



## HighGuy (Jan 5, 2010)

For all the cold weather guys, like me. If you like luxury and warmth for you, your oil and what not, use a colman lantern in a bucket or make a vented "hot box". We even use one in a bucket ice fishing to sit on. Been using one for about 20 yrs.ice fishing. Keep it opened up enough (chunk of 2x6 green treat across the top and it spills heat right up your frontside. Big enough box and put bar oil, extra gloves, and dry warm socks, or what ever and runs most of the day cheap. Just watch the venting, so it doesn't get too hot.

Or is it just a Cheesehead thing? -lol-


----------



## WadePatton (Jan 5, 2010)

Storm56 said:


> I always take a second saw or at least an extra bar and chain in case I stick one. Hey guys we all do now and again. Saved my bacon a couple of times.



just yesterday got to the sawing site and realized i'd left my toolbox on the wookbench at shop.

_nothing_ in the truck-save the tuner.

but had _three_ saws ready to go, and got away with no tools for the day.

so two lessons. pack a little spare kit in the truck, and always have a spare saw--or two.

when light is getting short it's much faster/easier to swap saws than to stop to touch up a chain or top off the fuel.


----------



## RobertN (Jan 5, 2010)

I am a homeowner with 5 acres. I keep the property up, and cut for firewood. I have been cutting firewood since I was a teenager in the late '70's.

- Always make sure the saw works before an outing, whether at home or in field. Even if I ran it two days ago. Kind relates to firefighting; always test fire the saw on the ground before taking it on the roof ect. The saws on the engines get started, checked, adjusted ect once a week during the weekly inspections of the fire engine.

- Take all the saws. I only have three saws, of three different size. My 024 is in process of rebuild, but I borrow my Dad's. If something happens to one saw, it does not ruin the whole day, two hour ride to wood cutting site ect.

- I have fuel cans specific to the tool. Diesel for the tractor is in the yellow diesel can. Regular gas is in a marked can. 2-stroke mix gas is in it's own marked can. My wife, dad, and neighbor use the tractor. My wife uses the various 2-stroke tools we have too. No way I want to gas the diesel engine in the tractor, or straight gas the chainsaws or weedeaters.

- I use dish soap bottles for bar oil. I have two that I fill from 1 gallon jugs. The 1100CD and 024 are easy to fill, but my 335xpt is harder to get oil in to. It makes it east to add a little oil on the bar/chain if needed too.

- My ammo can has screnches for the Stihl and Husky, tiny screw driver for carb adjustment, a rag for wiping "stuff", a soft bristle paintbrush for dusting the air filter off, two sharp spare chains for each saw, and a new in box spark plug for each saw. There is also a file/guide for each type of chain in the box.

- Have a separate box with my collection of gloves, and Husky helmet/muff/shield combo. Box also has my weedeadter/brusher shoulder harness, and an old wildland fire outer shirt/ppe. Very visible if I weedeat or are cutting near the road. And buttons up nicely, velcro wrist adjustment.

- If going away to cut wood, always carry my portable toolbox. Wrenches, sockets, ratchets, zip ties, duct tape, electrical tape, couple gauges of insulated wire, pliers, wire cutter/stripper, small putty knives, and some other odds and ends.

- At home usually refuel in the garage. Always blow the saw off, check chain, filter ect as long as I have the 60 gallon compressor right there. 

- I always have my sledge and wedge at home, sometimes carry when cutting in the woods.

-- What I do not have, that I want to get, is chaps, and wedges. Couple days ago, the neighbor nicked his jeans with a saw... Based on this thread, would also like to start carrying a hatchet.

--I do not have a decent first aid kit for out in the field. Worse, I am and EMT, so I KNOW I should have one... Even worser, I am first aid merit badge counselor, and one of the requirements is for the boys to make one. I do have one, but it is pretty simple and usually in my Scout pack. Will put that on this weeks todo list.


----------



## andrew346 (Jan 5, 2010)

Id love to read some cutting tips- especially any pointers on felling. I remember watching a video on youtube where the guy said that when he was cutting the diagonal section of the face, he took a twig and stuck it in the far edge of the horzontal cut hed just made. that way in a larger tree it gave him the point to aim for to make the two axis of the notch marry up.


----------



## gwiley (Jan 5, 2010)

This may sound silly and simple, but carry logs to your "landing" or transport site before bucking.

Trees under 12" DBH can be cut to 6-8' lengths (softwoods even longer) which can be shouldered for 20-50 feet. The trick is to lift one end of the log and walk under it until your shoulder is beyond the mid-point then stand up under the log with a hand over the top and let it balance itself on your shoulder. You can lift heavier logs than you think with this technique and can be faster than fooling with skidding if the distance to the equipment is right.

Heavy duty garden wagons (<$100 at big box stores) with pneumatic tires are great for dragging rounds and 4' logs out of the woods. They are narrow enough to scoot between obstacles and can greatly reduce your workload. This is particularly good for places where you are removing trees from someone elses property and they don't want equipment in that part of the woods or if the terrain is just a bit too dicey for a tractor/truck.


----------



## Arrowhead (Jan 5, 2010)

Thanks for all the tips. I learned a few more good ones I never thought of. Anything to help make cutting easier/faster is appreciated. How about any tips/tricks in the shop? Anybody make a custom tool for working/repairing saws?


----------



## constantine (Jan 5, 2010)

gwiley said:


> This may sound silly and simple, but carry logs to your "landing" or transport site before bucking.



I have a "PowerPull" to help with this, along with log tongs and a cant hook. When you cut it, you gotta move it.


----------



## constantine (Jan 5, 2010)

Arrowhead said:


> Thanks for all the tips. I learned a few more good ones I never thought of. Anything to help make cutting easier/faster is appreciated. How about any tips/tricks in the shop? Anybody make a custom tool for working/repairing saws?



I like to hand file my chains, and have a bench-mount filing jig ready to go. Mine is a Stihl, a little pricey but very solid and well-made. I stick to one kind of chain (Oregon 72LGX) and accumulate about half a dozen loops before filing them all at once. Good way to pass two or three hours on a rainy day.


----------



## pinesfarm (Jan 5, 2010)

when i go out to cut we already have make shift logging roads made so i have an old lawnmower trailer i put behind the quad and i have one of those $50 Rubbermaid lockable tool boxes i mounted on it and i keep all my tools my chaps helmet saws an extra saw extra bars files screwdrivers spare pull cords everything i would need

heres one of my favorite tricks ive learned tale an old hydraulic hose clamp cut it and use it to clean out your bar it works wonders


----------



## RobertN (Jan 5, 2010)

A piece of double jacket fire hose makes a GREAT bar/chain protector.


----------



## gwiley (Jan 5, 2010)

A few felling tips:

*Try the open face scarf*
I converted to the open face cut for most of my falling and have enjoyed fewer surprises. The key is to make sure that the hinge stays in-tact as long as possible - the traditional scarf will force the hinge to break while the tree is only 1/2 way down.

*Felling Wedges on Medium DBH Trees*
Trees with a DBH of under 20" can be tricky to wedge, especially if you are trying to make a longer hinge by cutting a deeper scarf. You can't drive a wedge at 90deg to the hinge - it will be too long. Use 2 wedges parallel to the hinge one driven in from each side.

*Stacking Wedges*
If you need a taller wedge you can stack 2 of them, however this is really hard to do if you drive one directly on top of another. A better approach is to drive the first wedge at 45deg angle to the hinge, then drive the second wedge at 90deg to the first (45deg to hinge in the other direction). This will reduce the odds of spitting a wedge out and can double your taper.


----------



## AT sawyer (Jan 5, 2010)

I duct-tape a bar nut to the inside handle of all my saws. It stays there forever or you need it. Cheap insurance when you're far from the workbench.


----------



## isaaccarlson (Jan 5, 2010)

*I carry a big safety pin to clean out bar rails and oiler holes, etc*

Just clip it inside your pocket or jacket and its there when you need it. works great. It also works wonders on splinters.


----------



## lambs (Jan 5, 2010)

I don't go far to cut from my SUV, so I leave quite a few things in the trunk, but I do carry an orange Home Depot 5 gal bucket into the site with a wedge, my Stihl file set, a few shop towels, and my helmet, upside down. Hard to lose an orange bucket.

When I run out of gas, I drop the helmet in the bucket, put my scabbard on the saw, pick up my insulated hat, and head back to the car to gas up and change chains. When I get back to the site, I switch hat for helmet, drop the scabbard in the bucket, and go back to work. 

I used to carry a 5 gal tank of compressed air for clean up, but find the Stihl tool is about all I need. I like the idea of a small brush though. I'm going to try it.


----------



## WadePatton (Jan 5, 2010)

shop trick: invert saw in vise for different attack on chain for filing. yo (heard it here you know).


----------



## madhatte (Jan 5, 2010)

Tool Tips: 

I carry my basic tools in a Kevlar bank bag hung from a carabiner clipped to my belt at the middle of my back. That way it goes Spencer tape, wedges, tools, as I move my hand around my right side from front to back. The bags come with a little slot to pull the zipper through so that it can be locked; this needs Dremeled off to allow the carabiner through. Insist on Kevlar as it is nearly cut-proof (by design) and can carry chains, screnches, tweakers, etc without being a cut hazard. I can probably come up with a few if anybody's interested. 

PPE: 

I like to carry a Camelbak with water in it. I have one of the carrying pouches that's arranged like a backpack. Water goes over my left shoulder; over the right shoulder is a leather "pu55y" pad to keep the chain off my neck, and triple-flange earplugs in a plastic box hung from a ball chain. The back pocket on the carrier contains a first-aid kit. 

When I'm cruising timber, I carry the whole apparatus in the backpack portion of my vest so that it's all there if I need it. The Camelbak hose comes over the left shoulder, as usual, and is pinned in place by my compass lanyard. 

I like to flip my gloves inside-out -- that is, rough-out. It's more comfy inside and affords better grip. You need to poke a couple of holes to pull the draw tabs through. Also, go one size smaller than usual because a lot of space wasted in hiding seams is gained when you turn 'em inside-out. 

You can easily repair chaps if *ONLY the outer shell* is damaged by laying a square of duct tape under the hole, adhesive side out, and patching with Shoe Goo. *Keep tape and Goo off of the Kevlar layers*. 

Falling Tips: 

Dropping trees likely to barber-chair (leaning alders come to mind), bore straight through a couple of inches above your back cut. It'll still barber-chair, true, but it'll stop at the bore cut. The rest of the stem will fall as usual. 

Dropping small, rotten snags can be especially dangerous; I've had 'em bind on the face cut. The best way I have found to prevent this is to cut European-style, where the angle cut comes before the flat face cut. This does two things -- one, it puts lass actual force on the bar because it is at a diagonal. Two, because the diagonal is a "longer" cut, you have a much better chance to get a safety wedge in there. 

Maintenance Tips: 

After every use of a saw, at the very least blow or wipe out the filter and clutch area. Makes it easier to keep an eye on things. You'll know when things are going south sooner just because you're looking at it that much closer, that much more often. 

Don't forget to keep the bar dressed! It's cheap and easy! I can't stress this one enough. 

Sharpen however works for you, but be prepared for your habits to change as time goes on. Don't get stuck in your ways. 

Finally: 

Kudos on the magnet idea. Slapping one in each of my kits tomorrow morning. I have three -- one for home, one for the field, and one for the shop.


----------



## howellhandmade (Jan 5, 2010)

Always take at least a lighter in the woods, even if it doesn't seem all that cold. You may not be far from the truck, but maybe something happens and you can't get to the truck. If you can build a fire and stay warm that removes one of the ways you can die before help comes.

Jack


----------



## Art Vandelay (Jan 5, 2010)

This thread is very deserving of a sticky.opcorn:


----------



## Walt41 (Jan 5, 2010)

When I head to the woods, I pin my safety kit to the back of my jacket with the big pin I use for my hunting license, I have also added 2 lighters and a small box of wooden matches to the kit. I might look goofy but, having a first aid kit is worth it.


----------



## aa1putt (Jan 5, 2010)

Don't do much deep woods cutting, but the one thing I always have is a leaf rake, as most of the trees are on other peoples property, and it sucks to have to ask to borrow their rake. Someone else said it already but it's worth repeating (take the log splitter for big ole logs), and we usually have a ball cart for hauling logs back to the truck (some times its easier than a wheel barrel).


----------



## B_Turner (Jan 5, 2010)

Here's a small tip that is helpful to me:

It took me years to realize that on some saws when I am putting on a new chain if it is too snug to go on normally (too tight to go over the bar sprocket), with the bar only on one stud, I angle the bar down like 75 degrees.

It puts slack in the chain and then I can put the chain over the nose. Then angle the bar back into position.

It's like magic.


----------



## Walt41 (Jan 5, 2010)

Forgot to include, when doing a large felling and bucking project, I try to place a few rounds where I am dropping a tree, I then lay the tree across them so I can keep my chain out of the dirt, this works if I don't miss!


----------



## gwiley (Jan 5, 2010)

Walt41 said:


> Forgot to include, when doing a large felling and bucking project, I try to place a few rounds where I am dropping a tree, I then lay the tree across them so I can keep my chain out of the dirt, this works if I don't miss!



The best technique I have found for keeping my chain out of the dirt is to cut 1/2-3/4 through the log then use the cant hook to roll the log over so that I can finish the cuts.


----------



## danrclem (Jan 5, 2010)

I read on AS not too long ago about putting chains in a Tupperware container with cardboard or something else in between them and marking the outside with the chain type. I'm gonna pick up some if I can ever remember while I'm out. 

I've been cutting some oak all the way up to 40" in diameter and the only way I can figure out to turn them over after cutting one side is to get a chain underneath them, hook it toward the back side and use my truck to roll them over. 

I have an old tamping/digging bar that I use to pry big wood apart (that I don't cut all the way through to protect the chain) when noodling them. It also is good for rolling cut rounds.


----------



## madhatte (Jan 5, 2010)

Another tip: no blippin' the throttle in the wood! Wastes gas and time. Keep that thing at WOT or outta the wood, unless you're bucking and trying to miss the dirt, in which case a bit of blippin' is probably a good idea.


----------



## HighGuy (Jan 5, 2010)

When at all possible I place limbs on the ground across my fall, then drop. Less damage if I'm doing a home owner tree and keeps the big stuff off of the dirt. = No dirt dulling or much need for rolling, "when it works".


----------



## madhatte (Jan 5, 2010)

HighGuy said:


> When at all possible I place limbs on the ground across my fall, then drop.



Anti-Swamping your lay? Curiouser and curiouser!

(I keed, I keed)


----------



## Erick (Jan 5, 2010)

*-->PULP HOOKS<--* The best tool you never knew you needed. Get two (one for each hand) and every log you pick up just came with handles. 


A *-->Hookeroon<--* is damn nice to have to for dragging logs out of the back of the truck or up to the splitter..... how many times have you wished your arm was three feet longer.


----------



## slinger (Jan 5, 2010)

Look up alot while cutting (and otherwise).

Respect everything.

Breathe deep.


----------



## J.W Younger (Jan 5, 2010)

round chisel chain can be goofy filed for a more efficent working corner, and is not as hard to learn as square.
when bucking, bore cutting logs in compression is faster than wedges or cutting partially through and rolling.


----------



## WadePatton (Jan 5, 2010)

howellhandmade said:


> Always take at least a lighter in the woods, even if it doesn't seem all that cold. You may not be far from the truck, but maybe something happens and you can't get to the truck. If you can build a fire and stay warm that removes one of the ways you can die before help comes.
> 
> Jack


there are ways around that.

my bro who used to cut out west says he confused the gang when he'd have a small "warm up" fire and they'd ask for matches, to which he'd reply "don't have any." nor lighter. nor magic sparky tool.

he had a chainsaw.

and that's all you need. well that and a little good common safety sense.

you see he'd splash the tiniest amount of mix onto a bit of tissue or tinder and ignite that with the spark plug.

put that in yer bag o' tricks!

(but one of those teeny bics is simpler--so long as you can find it)


----------



## crmyers (Jan 5, 2010)

Something I never go to the woods without, toilet paper.


----------



## nanuk (Jan 6, 2010)

*zippo!!!*



WadePatton said:


> (but one of those teeny bics is simpler--so long as you can find it)



You can die before you can get a bic to light...

a bic takes one warm strong good hand to light, due to the childproofing!

if your hands are cold, they can be near impossible.

answer??? *ZIPPO*

You can light a zippo with one hand easy, even cold, as you can roll it along your leg...

with two fists you can get 'er going.

also, a bic cannot STAY lit without your hand. 

Light the zippo.. set it on the ground amongst your tinder pile, and once it gets going, you can use a stick to dig out the zippo. No worse for wear!

I have a zippo in every bag I carry.

Keep them fresh fueled! They will work with gas, but be VERY careful!


----------



## TimberMcPherson (Jan 6, 2010)

In my toolbox I keep my loose chainsaw files in taped up drinking straws or stuck between the corrigations in thick cardboard. My last piece lasted 4 years holding a dozen or so files.

when felling on really steep ground a spare piece of starter cord with a bar nut on the end works well to figure what kind a lean you have on trees, or a clear drink bottle works well to if it has a straight side. Open scarfs done low enough can help insure the tree stays put once it hits the ground. Carry a buttrope just in case.

a good 4 inch cut of a truck innertube will go around a fuelcan and give you a good sheath to jam your files, screnches, cleaning brush etc in

On smaller trees I sometimes scarf high and open to keep the trunk off the deck, done right you can get all your undercuts all in before the trunk touches dirt and save bending down the whole time and the high stump with a cut in it can work well as good height sharpening stand.

dont make yourself a set of punji stakes when you cut saplings , cut em real low.


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 6, 2010)

look up & listen
tools, leave them on the deck next to the gas & oil, but always keep the saw wrench on hand.
tie the gas & oil together with a string, it helps with portability & prevents gravity inticed run aways..
keep the gas & oil close.
look up & listen
dont run the chain too tight, if you run it loose enough, when it throws you can just roll it back on with longer bars.
if you smoke, under your hard hat is the best place for the cigs.
when you are walking side hill, keep the saw on the up hill side.
when you are walking up hill, keep the bar pointed behind you, infront of you for down hill.
If you fall with the saw in 1 hand, throw it.
Stay out from under the lean & out from brhind of head leaners.
Cut the bottom first.
look up & listen.
dont cut gol faces.
stay away from guys with thick glasses.
look behind you, or the bears _will_ get you.

I hit a wall, its bed time, more later..


----------



## derwoodii (Jan 6, 2010)

3 in one picture here. 
Old sox's. Just cut em down and put em on as wrist guards, sweat bands or handy rag for in field cleaning.
Old rake handles. Cut down make suitable chain file handles which can be stowed in the bar guard. 








Worked for Asplundh in Oz for some years, when you started the boss gave you a roll of fencing wire and duct tape. Whats this for? You soon found out, it held the fleet and tools together.


----------



## constantine (Jan 6, 2010)

*Great tips here!*

*I agree, this thread deserves to be a sticky!*

The best lighter I have found for the woods is the *Brunton Helios*. It uses butane, and will light every time, even in the wind. They go for about $40 online, but when you need to use it, the cost is not important.

In the summer I carry a *machete*. The 24" is great for clearing around a tree which is choked in vines, etc. They are very lightweight, cut like crazy, and are cheap. Be sure to get a canvas sheath. The old *Collins* brand is the best I've found. They have a label on the blade with an arm holding a hammer coming up through a crown. Used to be made in CT, now in Guatemala. Nobody in Central America leaves home without one. File sharp will do. 

I carry my spare chains in tupperware containers. At home, I shapen the chain, clean it in kerosene, blow it out with compressed air, and soak the sharp chain in bar oil, then let it drain off before packing in the container. I mark the lids of the containers with the size of the chain, use one container for each size. 

For gloves, I like the *Sealskins* in winter. These are close fitting, have Gore Tex inside to keep hands dry, and have rubber nubbly things on the palms and fingers. No slip, even when wet.

Inside the vehicle, I have a piece of plywood with screw-eyes in it. Saws sit on the plywood, then I lash 'em down with rubber bungee cords. No rolling around and getting beat up.

Just my $0.02.


----------



## Butch(OH) (Jan 6, 2010)

By far the best chainsaw tool I have is a solidly mounted 6" Starrett vise. We dont work on saws chasing them around on the work bench unless we have to. After every use we clamp the bar in the vise for routine maintanance. makes that job sooo much easier. Of course any work in the clutch area requires the saw to be rolling around on the workbench We have two areas that we keep our 15 saws. On shelves, which means they are serviced and ready to use except for fuel and oil, and on the floor, which reminds me to service them.


----------



## Gologit (Jan 6, 2010)

Nobody takes a LUNCH ?? Gotta have a lunch. I also keep a "care package" under the seat...sardines, beanie weinies, crackers, stuff that has a good shelf life for those days when things go wrong and you're out there longer than you planned. Or have to stay out there all night 'cause the road slid in. Beanie weinies are terrible but they're better than trying to make soup out of boiled bootlaces or trying to kill squirrels with a rock.


----------



## Wild Knight (Jan 6, 2010)

I don't own a woods, nor do I own a tractor. I tend to do a lot of cutting in the woods, and I don't own a hydraulic splitter. So, I like to have everything noodled and manageable before I start chucking it at the truck. Generally, I will buck up the trunk, then zip up from one end noodling the rounds into halves. It makes for quick work, and I don't have to worry about cleaning up noodles in my yard. Obviously, splitting is a whole lot easier once the rounds are halved or quartered too. 

Bucking






Unzipping


----------



## constantine (Jan 6, 2010)

Butch(OH) said:


> By far the best chainsaw tool I have is a solidly mounted 6" Starrett vise. We dont work on saws chasing them around on the work bench unless we have to. After every use we clamp the bar in the vise for routine maintanance. makes that job sooo much easier. Of course any work in the clutch area requires the saw to be rolling around on the workbench We have two areas that we keep our 15 saws. On shelves, which means they are serviced and ready to use except for fuel and oil, and on the floor, which reminds me to service them.



:agree2:

Got a big old Wilton. This is no bull!


----------



## SINGLE-JACK (Jan 6, 2010)

Gologit said:


> Nobody takes a LUNCH ?? Gotta have a lunch. I also keep a "care package" under the seat...sardines, beanie weinies, crackers, stuff that has a good shelf life for those days when things go wrong and you're out there longer than you planned. Or have to stay out there all night 'cause the road slid in. *Beanie weinies are terrible but they're better than trying to make soup out of boiled bootlaces *or trying to kill squirrels with a rock.



*"boiled bootlaces"* ... LMAO!!! ... gotta rep that!

But, I could'nt just lol ... had to post _something_ to the OP:



Arrowhead said:


> ...
> *I use a plastic milk crate for my gas can, gallon of bar oil *
> ...



*Wedge axe, wedges, gas can, bar oil in a 'half'-crate:*
Crate doesn't hold saw dust or rain!!!








*Woods rig: ATV Rack Box carries saw, PPE, crate, splitting maul:*
The Rack Box 'tail-gate' mounts the saw for sharpening.





*GREAT THREAD, Arrowhead!!! *... have some rep!


----------



## Wild Knight (Jan 6, 2010)

Yup, you don't realize how much your chain is moving around when you file it on the bar. Once I put the chain in a vice, sharpening became much easier, precise and more consistent.


----------



## SINGLE-JACK (Jan 6, 2010)

Wild Knight said:


> Yup, you don't realize how much your chain is moving around when you file it on the bar. Once I put the chain in a vice, sharpening became much easier, precise and more consistent.



Excellent point!!! When sharpening in the field, which happens a lot, I always adjust the chain as tight as possible so it won't move around so much. Makes a much easier job of sharpening while still on the bar.


----------



## porch monkey (Jan 6, 2010)

Try to always take a partner. I'm lucky to be able to take my little woman. Instill in said partner a liking for dragging limbs and building piles. (Not sure how to make em like doing it, mine just took to it natural.) I never have to look down or watch where I'm stepping because my partner can read my mind...if something WAS in the way, it's gone now! (In case you cant tell, I'm crazy about her.lol)

Another thing I do is have a pair of oversized bib overalls to cut in. I use the ducking kind like Carharts. I get them big enough to fit over my clothes and over a sweatshirt. Give me lots of extra pockets - small pockets for tools and the back pockets are roomy enough for wedges. I just use em for cutting so they dont get washed very often but keep my other clothes clean. I look at it as a trade off. - making things easier on the washwoman gives her more time to drag limbs. (Go easy on me now, slowp. lol)


----------



## KeyStep (Jan 6, 2010)

Best tool for working in the woods or with firewood is my "Grab a Log" helper. This tool can move 8 ft logs up to 13" inch effortlessly and is used daily when it just so much easier to drag something quickly. Also very valueable when postioning logs for lifting or just cutting firewood splits as you eliminate a lot of bending over which at the end of the day makes a huge difference. Well worth the $40 dollars I spent on it.. as my back feels so much better after a long day in the woods. See picture below.


----------



## howellhandmade (Jan 6, 2010)

nanuk said:


> You can die before you can get a bic to light...
> 
> a bic takes one warm strong good hand to light, due to the childproofing!
> 
> ...



Agreed. A Zippo is always in my pocket, always fill it before I go out. I do keep a couple of disposables in the glove box, though, since they won't dry out of fuel. Lots of different ways to make a fire; the more you know the better. 

Jack


----------



## Bubbles Up (Jan 6, 2010)

One of the best thigns to do anytime when you are heading out cutting,fishing, hunting etc is to file a flight plan with someone of your location and an estimated time of return,and a deadline return time.
Once you are home phone that person and tell them that you are home safe and sound.

My safety kit has a whistle (pealess) around my neck
Zippo, leatherman, Small mylar mirror,water, flight plan filed.food & water
Usually close by is a full first aid kit,space blanket,water,Gatorade,more food & water.(Just like AMEX ~ Never leave home with out it)

Chainsaw kit :
3-1Liter fuel bottles of premix ,jug of bar oil.
2 extra chains,files inside of aquarium tubing,
wedges,PPE.


----------



## KMB (Jan 6, 2010)

Bubbles Up said:


> One of the best thigns to do anytime when you are heading out cutting,fishing, hunting etc is to file a flight plan with someone of your location and an estimated time of return,and a deadline return time.
> Once you are home phone that person and tell them that you are home safe and sound.



One of the best tips to know. I'd give you some rep, but according to the system, I gotta spread it around.

Kevin


----------



## HighGuy (Jan 6, 2010)

On the lighter side ... (ha ha?) Bics have failed in the cold and Zippos have caught me at bad times, dried.... But my Propane/Map gas "Benz O Matic" w/ button igniter has been without a hitch for about 6 years. ( Go ahead! I laugh about it, too. Until it really helps out!)

I use it to thaw frozen stuff, instant fire & burn weeds, to hot knife plastic, etc.,... lot of uses, besides sweating pipe or lighting smokes.

Not something I carry all over, but can be found at the truck when needed. Also lights with frozen fists!

-Had to throw that out there.-


----------



## HighGuy (Jan 6, 2010)

Talking to some of the guys here....

How about the "Off" switch? New saws have them right in "one hand" reach? So many are taught to kick on the chain brake, but if you trip/slip, with a running saw (like a mess of a clearing job), learning "off" can safe a leg or other, when the other hand is bracing the fall. We had a guy slip on a log while bucking, who knew saws and was damn quick thinking. He fell backwards and may have lost his "family crest", when the saw dropped back onto him, while he was falling. He tried to let go but it all went wrong and stayed with him, with his fingers bunched in the throttle. Some how he caught the off switch and it had shut down before contact. Hurt! But he got to go home intact! A fluke, yeah, but one he will never forget! And doesn't! "REALLY know your saw, boys!" That should be a given, but some do take it for granted.

Don't let stuff you hear, like this, pass as "That wouldn't happen to me!" Cuz, "There's no rules to accidents" & "Shhtuff happens!"

Kudos to all the safety & first aid ideas! We carry butterfly strips, needle and thread, and much more, besides the usual survival/backwoods kit, sold. We have a few wilderness backpackers, here.


----------



## Walt41 (Jan 6, 2010)

Anyone ever heard of a saw equipped with a lanyard kill switch?


----------



## Walt41 (Jan 6, 2010)

I only mention the lanyard because I have the system perfected and sent an e-mail to Stihl and have not heard from them. The system is cool because it not only increases safety but noone else can easily start your saw.


----------



## constantine (Jan 6, 2010)

HighGuy said:


> Talking to some of the guys here....
> 
> Kudos to all the safety & first aid ideas! We carry butterfly strips, needle and thread, and much more, besides the usual survival/backwoods kit, sold. We have a few wilderness backpackers, here.



Speaking of first aid, anybody carry *Celox*? It's a powder that you pour on a wound to stop the bleeding. There are also bandages which contain the stuff for bad cuts, amputations, etc. EMT's carry it, as do our guys in Iraq and Afghanistan. Given that chain cuts to the extremities can be really nasty, you want to have some heavy duty precautions handy. Nobody is paying me to say this, but I know that the stuff works!

You hope you never have to use it, but it's good to know that it's there.


----------



## Cantdog (Jan 6, 2010)

*Stuff*

Well, this seems to have become a thread about things you take in the woods rather than cutting tips for the most part.
So here goes.
First; don't forget your chainsaw, I take two on the tractor. The type of cutting will determine which two. I leave the third in the truck.
Second; gas and oil.
Third; As others have already said an ammo can makes a super tool box, rugged and water tight. In this is an extra chain for both saws, screnches, files, a set of T handle allen wrenches, (the older Jreds are totally put together with a couple different size allen bolts.) and an 8 MM boxed end wrench, needle nosed pliers and a 6" piece of heat shrink tubing. (in my pocket I cary my Coleman PTR2160 butane lighter with flexable nozzel)
Fourth; My lunch box and water. The lunch box (second ammo can painted red) is also my home spun first aid kit. Besides a snack or two and sandwich it also contains; two squares of folded papertowels, two "heavy flow" kotex and 1/4 roll of duct tape, and two feet of surgical tubing. With the paper towels and the duct tape you can make your own bandaids for the small stuff and the kotex and duct tape will go a long way for serious stuff and if that can't stop the flow that's where the surgical tubing comes in.

So that's what goes with me into the woods, so far I've alway come back.


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 6, 2010)

Diesel fuel will alleviate any pain from cable bite, or other lacerations.


----------



## etc (Jan 7, 2010)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> Excellent point!!! When sharpening in the field, which happens a lot, I always adjust the chain as tight as possible so it won't move around so much. Makes a much easier job of sharpening while still on the bar.



This is awesome to know.


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 7, 2010)

When filing, cram a wedge between the chain & bar to tighten the chain without wasting mucho time fiddling with your wrench..

i learned that here..


----------



## etc (Jan 7, 2010)

I carry a GPS around with me. Garmin 60CSx. It is the size of a late 90's cell phone. Runs on AA cells for 12 hours. Longer on Lithium cells.

You can use it for many things. Mark locations of interest and come back to them. Say drive by some property or see a fallen tree to cut or something, bookmark it. Just use your imagination. It's accurate to within a few meters.
Find your way back if lost in the woods. Never go in the woods without it even if I know the way. 

Equally useful in the woods and in the city. I use topographical maps in it. Even has an attachment for the vehicle and plugs into the electrical outlet.

The other device I carry everywhere is a small Surefire torch. Never know if the truck breaks down at night, or you need to change the tire, or look inside something dark. Useful even in broad daylight. You can signal with it if you wish.


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 7, 2010)

etc said:


> I carry a GPS around with me. Garmin 60CSx. It is the size of a late 90's cell phone. Runs on AA cells for 12 hours. Longer on Lithium cells.
> 
> You can use it for many things. Mark locations of interest and come back to them. Say drive by some property or see a fallen tree to cut or something, bookmark it. Just use your imagination. It's accurate to within a few meters.
> Find your way back if lost in the woods. Never go in the woods without it even if I know the way.
> ...





Hahahaa, 

you live in Maryland, If you get lost, all you have to do is walk for an hour, youl either hit 70, 83, or Gettysburg & if you get that far, id say your high on somthing.


sounds like a neat machine non the less


----------



## WadePatton (Jan 7, 2010)

056 kid said:


> When filing, cram a wedge between the chain & bar to tighten the chain without wasting mucho time fiddling with your wrench..
> 
> i learned that here..



now that i like. jammit dammit.


----------



## Little Al (Jan 7, 2010)

*helpful chainsaw/cutting tips & tricks*

Cheap way of making a nice to handle, bar groove cleaner. Alloy /steel tent pegs the kind with the 90degree cranked top. file the cranked part on each side to leave a flat in the centre. If you are really keen file to leave set thickness, ie.050, 058, 063, etc. saw off the point & your good to go I bought 10 pegs for 90 euro cents /$1.25 Also you can drill the straight end for a cord. If you`re like me saves keep losing them


----------



## Burvol (Jan 7, 2010)

I was thinking maybe we could teach some proper bucking classes at the PNW GTG. I have a few tricks I'm sure guys would like to see.


----------



## john taliaferro (Jan 7, 2010)

File a flight plan. my friend Mike. well the 6 ton off road jack has saved the day more than enough to earn its keep in the truck.


----------



## catbuster (Jan 7, 2010)

Have a friend with a bobcat.... and a friend with a hoe-ram. The bobcat/loader will helf load big stuff an when you can't get stuff on the splitter... you can get the hoe-ram.


----------



## RobertN (Jan 7, 2010)

Wonder how a splitter on a Bobcat(or other SS) with hi-flow would work?



catbuster said:


> Have a friend with a bobcat.... and a friend with a hoe-ram. The bobcat/loader will helf load big stuff an when you can't get stuff on the splitter... you can get the hoe-ram.


----------



## catbuster (Jan 7, 2010)

RobertN said:


> Wonder how a splitter on a Bobcat(or other SS) with hi-flow would work?



I don't know, I probably wouldn't try it. a CTL/SS has no pupose running a splitter in opinion. I should be pickinglogs,mowing back to where you cut stuff etc... I wouldn't put a splitter on it. On hi-flow... I wouldn't buy a SSL/CTL without it anymore. tractor mount bush hogs on on the way out for cutting access roads and landings. My favorite piece to cut road today is a BC T300 and a 60 inch fecon head. Tractor bush hogs will have their place for a wile tho, I think big 20 foot batwings will have thier place mowing overgron fields that aren't extremely thick.


----------



## Walt41 (Jan 7, 2010)

RobertN said:


> Wonder how a splitter on a Bobcat(or other SS) with hi-flow would work?



Search "bobcat logsplitter" on you tube, it will ruin you everytime you split.


----------



## SINGLE-JACK (Jan 7, 2010)

Walt41 said:


> *Search "bobcat logsplitter"* on you tube, it will ruin you everytime you split.


Nice find *Walt41* ... save you the search:
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/YeanPDO-D6M&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/YeanPDO-D6M&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>


----------



## logbutcher (Jan 7, 2010)

This thread is the finestkind.....nice job guys.  And thanks. These Tips and Hints are better than ..... sliced bread, or, maybe silicone implants. :jawdrop:

You can have all the emergency gear in the kit---HD Kotex, surgical tubing, Celox ( strongly recommended  ), duck/duct tape. But more: Take a *Wilderness Medicine *class that are given all over N. America, Europe, and those southern outposts. I got recertified last year for climbing and cutting,and the medical technology and training changes yearly. Learn to take care of yourself or buddies improvising without EMT gear. 

BTW: from experience, using duct tape on a wound WITH leg hair for example leads to heavy tearing of the eyes  when the ER rips it off. "You want it off fast or slow", she laughed.:monkey: So tip for the day: shave your left leg.


----------



## Freehand (Jan 7, 2010)

Shave your left leg LOL!

Rep sent.


----------



## logbutcher (Jan 7, 2010)

freehandslabber said:


> Shave your left leg LOL!
> Rep sent.



Why thank you....thank you very much. More wanted.


----------



## RobertN (Jan 7, 2010)

Wow! Wonder what that runs?

My little Kubota does not have enough flow to run a 3-point log splitter very well. 

I do like having the tractor around when cutting though. That mechanized wheel barrow(loader) is nice 



SINGLE-JACK said:


> Nice find *Walt41* ... save you the search:


----------



## Bubbles Up (Jan 7, 2010)

I was watching the you tube on it .The "boss" said I wasn't allowed to have the bobcat logsplitter.She said that I would spend to much time cuttin .Then I told her "just think dear I could go to all the local campgrounds and charge a couple of bucks to split campers wood.All the men would want to see it $5 and a cold one. I said just think of the new BMW/Caddy/Jaguar you could be driving". She just smiled and said dinners ready.At dinner she said about that splitter thingy,I could see you sitting there drinking beer,and having a good time. I then asked her "Do you want leather and satellite radio?"

the only reply I got was "Don't forget to scrub the fry pan and load the dish washer.

I said I would be if I had the bobcat slpitter.

Darn that frypan hurts..............


----------



## madhatte (Jan 7, 2010)

056 kid said:


> you live in Maryland, If you get lost, all you have to do is walk for an hour, youl either hit 70, 83, or Gettysburg & if you get that far, id say your high on somthing.



Tell that to the kids in Blair Witch Project!



Burvol said:


> I was thinking maybe we could teach some proper bucking classes at the PNW GTG. I have a few tricks I'm sure guys would like to see.


I was supposed to teach a saw safety class this last fall down near Kalama but that fell through. I still have most of the contacts rarin' to go for a later class. I would be more than happy to contribute to that training effort.



catbuster said:


> My favorite piece to cut road today is a BC T300 and a 60 inch fecon head.



Geeze, we can't keep our Fecon up and running for more than a week. That thing is *temperamental*! Maybe its all the slash it's asked to chew up for site prep? HMMM


----------



## davec (Jan 7, 2010)

A kid's plastic sled is a good way to haul stuff into the woods in the winter. The type that is long, rectangular and has shallow sides on it, so that everything doesn't fall out. A lot easier than carrying it.

I agree on tightening the chain extra for filing.

Here's my chain sharpening vise. A bit overkill, but it took 10 min to make, it's easy to use and holds the bar very solidly so it doesn't flex. I flip the saw around to do the opposite side cutters.


----------



## Arrowhead (Jan 7, 2010)

Bubbles Up said:


> I was watching the you tube on it .The "boss" said I wasn't allowed to have the bobcat logsplitter.She said that I would spend to much time cuttin .Then I told her "just think dear I could go to all the local campgrounds and charge a couple of bucks to split campers wood.All the men would want to see it $5 and a cold one. I said just think of the new BMW/Caddy/Jaguar you could be driving". She just smiled and said dinners ready.At dinner she said about that splitter thingy,I could see you sitting there drinking beer,and having a good time. I then asked her "Do you want leather and satellite radio?"
> 
> the only reply I got was "Don't forget to scrub the fry pan and load the dish washer.
> 
> ...



I think I married her sister! Mine did not like the idea either.


----------



## Burvol (Jan 7, 2010)

madhatte said:


> Tell that to the kids in Blair Witch Project!
> 
> 
> I was supposed to teach a saw safety class this last fall down near Kalama but that fell through. I still have most of the contacts rarin' to go for a later class. I would be more than happy to contribute to that training effort.
> ...



I don't have any certifications to instruct sawyers, but I'm sure more than a few guys will come that can share stuff with people. I always try to observe respected cutters I work with and watch their game. It's interesting when people have different ways of doing things in a slight manner, as trying different things can either add to your skills or make you more comfortable with your style.


----------



## madhatte (Jan 7, 2010)

Burvol said:


> I don't have any certifications to instruct sawyers,



I don't either, just yet. I'm hoping to get the instructor qual in the NFES system to teach at the "B" sawyer level for fire this season. I don't see me qualifying "C" soon, more's the pity, but if I had that qual I'd want to teach to that as well.


----------



## BigE (Jan 8, 2010)

etc said:


> The other device I carry everywhere is a small Surefire torch. Never know if the truck breaks down at night, or you need to change the tire, or look inside something dark. Useful even in broad daylight. You can signal with it if you wish.



I carry a little knockoff Surefire flashlight (called Ultrafire, available for about $10-15 from a Korean website - not certain if I should list it here). Anyway, it takes 1 AAA battery and it about as bright as my 5 D cell Mag flashlight. It's about the size of a mini-mag flashlight, and it's always in my front pocket, next to my keys. That thing comes in handy so many times, in the woods and out of the woods.


----------



## madhatte (Jan 8, 2010)

Q: PNW GTG thread/date/location -- where?


----------



## clearance (Jan 8, 2010)

Tie your boots using the loggers tie. If you are falling small trees against their lean, put in the backcut first, along with a wedge, then saw the undercut.


----------



## constantine (Jan 8, 2010)

clearance said:


> *Tie your boots using the loggers tie.* ....



Please explain or post a pic.


----------



## John Ellison (Jan 8, 2010)

Burvol; It's interesting when people have different ways of doing things in a slight manner said:


> Could'nt agree with you more Burvol. It is too easy (for me anyway) to get stuck in a certain way of doing something if it works even if just barely. I remember putting on a new chain and I had the power head in an upright position, of course I was juggling the bar with one hand while trying to get the chain on. A faller watched me and said, you put a chain on that way? He left right away and I thought well how else can I do it. Finally it hit me to turn the saw and bar over on its side. AhHa.
> 
> To help keep from getting pinched while bucking logs. If the log to your left is supported nearby and will stay at the same height after the cut but the side to the right will drop angle the cut from top to bottom stationary/drop drop\stationary just a tiny hair will do it.


----------



## logbutcher (Jan 8, 2010)

Burvol said:


> I don't have any certifications to instruct sawyers, but I'm sure more than a few guys will come that can share stuff with people. I always try to observe respected cutters I work with and watch their game. It's interesting *when people have different ways of doing things in a slight manner, as trying different things can either add to your skills or make you more comfortable with your style*.



:agree2::agree2:

As one of my guys used to say: " When you stop learning, don't come down for breakfast.":monkey:

Years ago ( a dark and stormy night ) after a close call with a chain (only 8 stitches just above the patella with duct tape removal ), the brain said to learn something about safety. I took a full *Game of Logging *program.....not a game; nice techniques for accuracy, safety, efficiency, even fun competing. Hey, I never knew that boring ( plunge cutting ) could often do the job.


----------



## SINGLE-JACK (Jan 8, 2010)

clearance said:


> Tie your boots using the loggers tie. ...





constantine said:


> Please explain or post a pic.



*LOGGER KNOT *from Sherrill Tree:


----------



## SINGLE-JACK (Jan 8, 2010)

Also consider -

*BETTER BOW* from Sherrill Tree:




There's a better description of how to tie "SHOELACES EXTRA SECURE" in Brion Toss' book *CHAPMAN'S NAUTICAL GUIDES Knots*, pages 164-5, 1990

I taught this to my kids nearly twenty years ago - it's great for keeping childrens shoes tied - It's a semi-decorative knot we all use on all shoe/boot laces ... VERY SECURE, EASY TO TIE AND EASY TO UN-TIE!


----------



## constantine (Jan 8, 2010)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> Also consider -
> 
> *BETTER BOW* from Sherrill Tree:
> 
> ...



Thanks. I should read that catalog more carefully.


----------



## John Ellison (Jan 8, 2010)

I don't like loops in my bootlaces in the woods. Have almost always used just a squareknot. With leather laces/wet day sometimes and extra turn on the lower or first layer.


----------



## MotorSeven (Jan 8, 2010)

Another Zippo fan, add to that a Leatherman...the one with a bit set. Torx, square drive, etc....priceless.

A tip on the Zippo, get a flint pack & stick an extra flint under the felt block. That way you always have an extra flint with the lighter. 

The best tip for me is a razor sharp chain...nothing else compares.



RD


----------



## constantine (Jan 8, 2010)

MotorSeven said:


> Another Zippo fan, add to that a Leatherman...the one with a bit set. Torx, square drive, etc....priceless.
> 
> A tip on the Zippo, get a flint pack & stick an extra flint under the felt block. That way you always have an extra flint with the lighter.
> 
> ...



You are soooo right. It pays to carry extras along. A sharp chain cuts faster and is safer to use. 

Does anyone use butane lighters? I really like the Brunton Helios. Works every time and lights in the the wind.


----------



## SINGLE-JACK (Jan 8, 2010)

If I may be allowed to extend cutting tips to splitting tips:

*When sawing billets for maul splitting, make cuts at the apex of "Y's" (crotches). Then, split with the butt end up and align the 'Y' such both 'legs' are split at once. It will save much 'noodling'.*

*An old tire around the chopping block keeps the maul from striking the ground (rocks) and it helps keep the block upright:* 






*It is recommended to hole saw several large holes through the 'ground-sidewall' to prevent water from collecting within the tire.*


----------



## Brian VT (Jan 8, 2010)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> If I may be allowed to extend cutting tips to splitting tips:
> An old tire around the chopping block keeps the maul from striking the ground (rocks) and it helps keep the block upright


I add another tire (both of them taller than yours) and it keeps the log and splits right there so you can just keep hacking away until it's all split. 
No picking up the log off the ground after every swing.


----------



## constantine (Jan 8, 2010)

I like the Fiskars "Super Splitter" maul. Great balance and very sharp.


----------



## SINGLE-JACK (Jan 8, 2010)

Brian VT said:


> I add another tire (*both of them taller than yours*) and it keeps the log and splits right there so you can just keep hacking away until it's all split.
> No picking up the log off the ground after every swing.



*I was thinking that's a pretty big tire. What tires are you using?*


----------



## Brian VT (Jan 8, 2010)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> *I was thinking that's a pretty big tire. What tires are you using?*


I dunno. I guess they're wide truck tires. My stump might not be as tall, either.
Stack 3 and lash them together, for the same effect, if you need to. It just keeps everything coralled. 
It's also handy to throw a few smaller logs in there at one time and just walk a circle and give each one a split. 
It keeps them all standing there for you.


----------



## BRCCArborist (Jan 8, 2010)

When making an open faced notch, grip the saw on the upper curve of the handlebar for the uppercut, and the lower curve for the undercut. This will give you the perfect angle and should line up well.


----------



## KodiakKen (Jan 8, 2010)

*this might be useless but I will try*

if bucking or noodling on fairly level ground...cut with the handle slightly lower than the tip of the bar..any saw you have ever seen sitting flat on the bench..if you put the handle on the ground and cut until the saw reaches the ground..most of the time you will not hit the ground.
another. when noodling..cut 3/4 and hit with a maul ..saves time/chain/fuel/rolling that 48" bassturd around..the weight from the cut part helps split it. if you carry a cant hook..use the hook part drop into the notch and twist..huge leverage.
another. before taping around something..take the roll and flip it over..sticky side up for a few wraps..you can make it just as tight and doesn't hurt when they use their scissors to cut it off easily
last..my scrench from Stihl the screwdriver is tapered just right to use as a bar groove cleaner..I thought that was common knowledge


----------



## WadePatton (Jan 8, 2010)

MotorSeven said:


> Another Zippo fan, add to that a Leatherman...the one with a bit set. Torx, square drive, etc....priceless.
> 
> A tip on the Zippo, get a flint pack & stick an extra flint under the felt block. That way you always have an extra flint with the lighter.
> 
> The best tip for me is a razor sharp chain...nothing else compares.


more zippo: eff the dimestore card of flints. just pick up disposed of disposable lighters for the best and cheapest flints. rip the top off and extract. easy.

*and zippo fluid is coleman fuel is naptha. * use this info at your own discretion.

razor charp chain. yes, can never be stated too many times. if you know that you're not good at chain filing, *spend some time working on it* get self-sufficient! buy good files and think about the process. the time will be paid back to you when you "get it".

i'm just now getting where my freehand is faster than jigged filing...oh it's a _good _feeling.


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 9, 2010)

KodiakKen said:


> last..my scrench from Stihl the screwdriver is tapered just right to use as a bar groove cleaner..I thought that was common knowledge




I doubt that your screwdriver is getting to the bottom of the groove where it is important. If so , its not much of a screwdriver anymore. .


----------



## slowp (Jan 9, 2010)

John Ellison said:


> I don't like loops in my bootlaces in the woods. Have almost always used just a squareknot. With leather laces/wet day sometimes and extra turn on the lower or first layer.



Yes. Loops can get hung up and trip you during one of the "Run Away, Run Away" events. Streamlining things is a good thing to do.

So, laying Twinkle down on the other side when putting a new chain on will decrease inefficient language? I'll have to try that. 

Here in the PNW, if you want things to stay wet, you throw them in the back of the pickup. If you want them damp and dirty, you throw them in the box, if you want them merely damp, they go here.







If you want dry gear, better take it in where there's heat. I left my saturated fleece sweatshirt spread out in the front seat over a long weekend.
After 3 days, it was still wet. The solar dryer failed.


----------



## WadePatton (Jan 9, 2010)

speaking of dirty laundry, if you want the best performance it has to be_* wool and silk*_.

wool works (insulates) wet (gets heavy, but won't freeze you like cotton or synthetics). nothing else does. wet cotton is a huge no-no in survival situations, worse than bare skin for retaining body heat. wool is the original "wicking" material*-no matter what dupont and monsanto and exxon try to tell you.

wool and silk dry quickly and a less "promoted" fact of wool/silk is that they don't get stinky after one sweaty outing...or two or three. not too long ago i pulled my silk undies out of the bag for a cool mountain bike ride. yikes! unwashed--whoops, but no odor at all. i had worn them on a 68-mile road ride some weeks before and forgotten them in the bag-in the truck. no problem.

my 5-year old boots still smell like _leather_. seriously. i never wear nothing but wool socks. and have been ebay acquiring vintage "elmer fudd" wool hunting gear. fix a button hole and go...

and tie square knots.

*1,202,920,000 sheep can't be wrong.


----------



## Burvol (Jan 9, 2010)

056 kid said:


> I doubt that your screwdriver is getting to the bottom of the groove where it is important. If so , its not much of a screwdriver anymore. .



That's what your Spencer tape nail is for besides going into your logs.


----------



## slowp (Jan 9, 2010)

Burvol said:


> That's what your Spencer tape nail is for besides going into your logs.



I should do that on Monday. My tape migrated up to the top of the pile so I can find it.


----------



## Steve NW WI (Jan 9, 2010)

logbutcher said:


> You can have all the emergency gear in the kit---HD Kotex, surgical tubing, Celox ( strongly recommended  ), duck/duct tape. But more: Take a *Wilderness Medicine *class that are given all over N. America, Europe, and those southern outposts. I got recertified last year for climbing and cutting,and the medical technology and training changes yearly. Learn to take care of yourself or buddies improvising without EMT gear.



For some free first aid training, join the military, your local volunteer FD, or even volunteer to be a first responder at your work. I spent time in the military and have been a first responder at nearly every job I've worked at. For those of you who haven't had training in a while, go take a CPR class, the "old rules" have changed greatly in the last few years.



SINGLE-JACK said:


> If I may be allowed to extend cutting tips to splitting tips:
> 
> *An old tire around the chopping block keeps the maul from striking the ground (rocks) and it helps keep the block upright:*
> 
> ...



When I was younger, we had an old Payloader tire we cut 8' logs into firewood on top of. Rubber is a lot easier on chains than dirt for that occasional nick. Modern tires probably wouldn't work as well, I doubt this one was "Steel Belted" - the one we had was probably taken off the machine in the 70's. It's probably still out back somewhere, gonna cost to get rid of it.


----------



## oscar4883 (Jan 9, 2010)

I'll add my meager tidbits. Empty chew cans are great for storing extra bar nuts in your tool bag. Keeps everything smelling minty. Never but Carhart overalls with a full length zipper on the leg. If the zipper craps out you have a problem. Buy ones with the zipper from the knee down and if it breaks use a few wraps of duct tape to hold the leg opening closed. Worked in the mining industry for some time as a welder and slag plays hell with zippers.


----------



## R DeLawter (Jan 9, 2010)

*Where to buy?*



KeyStep said:


> Best tool for working in the woods or with firewood is my "Grab a Log" helper. This tool can move 8 ft logs up to 13" inch effortlessly and is used daily when it just so much easier to drag something quickly. Also very valueable when postioning logs for lifting or just cutting firewood splits as you eliminate a lot of bending over which at the end of the day makes a huge difference. Well worth the $40 dollars I spent on it.. as my back feels so much better after a long day in the woods. See picture below.



Tried to find one of these to purchase but could not locate one .

Looks like something this old man could use.
LOTS of good information on this thread.


----------



## logbutcher (Jan 9, 2010)

Steve NW WI said:


> For some *free first aid training, join the military, your local volunteer FD, or even volunteer to be a first responder at your work. *I spent time in the military and have been a first responder at nearly every job I've worked at. For those of you who haven't had training in a while,* go take a CPR class, the "old rules" have changed greatly in the last few years.*
> 
> Mostly correct Steve. However, most large bureaucracies like FD's and any mil except the specials ( I'm biased  ) are way behind civilian advances in emergency care, gear, training techniques. Trust me, I've been.
> 
> ...


----------



## hoss (Jan 9, 2010)

Arrowhead said:


> Sometimes the simplest little technique makes life a lot easier when it comes to working on or cutting with chainsaws. If you "discovered" something simple that helps out, post it. Even if you think think its minor or if you think everybody else is already doing it, who cares, post it.
> 
> 
> I always try to take the scabard off the bar BEFORE I start cutting.:help:


----------



## Arrowhead (Jan 9, 2010)

hoss said:


> Arrowhead said:
> 
> 
> > Sometimes the simplest little technique makes life a lot easier when it comes to working on or cutting with chainsaws. If you "discovered" something simple that helps out, post it. Even if you think think its minor or if you think everybody else is already doing it, who cares, post it.
> ...


----------



## bullittman281 (Jan 10, 2010)

I'll wager that it makes no difference to the saw or cutting but, I'll also wager that if you remove it before cutting the scabbard is good for more than one usage.

Bullittman.


----------



## hoss (Jan 10, 2010)

bullittman281 said:


> I'll wager that it makes no difference to the saw or cutting but, I'll also wager that if you remove it before cutting the scabbard is good for more than one usage.
> 
> Bullittman.



I hadn't thought of it that way, but I bet you are right.:greenchainsaw:


----------



## logbutcher (Jan 10, 2010)

bullittman281 said:


> I'll wager that it makes no difference to the saw or cutting but, I'll also wager that if you remove it before cutting the scabbard is good for more than one usage.
> Bullittman.



You mean that you take the scabbard OFF before cutting ???? :monkey:


----------



## BigE (Jan 10, 2010)

logbutcher said:


> You mean that you take the scabbard OFF before cutting ???? :monkey:



NO!!! The scabbard acts as a lubricant for the chain! It is also a safety guard for when you put your hand on the spinning chain. I can't tell you how many times I had to get my fingers re-attached before I learned this trick.


----------



## 7sleeper (Jan 10, 2010)

BigE said:


> NO!!! The *scabbard acts as a lubricant for the chain!* It is also a safety guard for when you put your hand on the spinning chain. I can't tell you how many times I had to get my fingers re-attached before I learned this trick.



But only as long as it is running real fast. As soon as you stop the soft and lubricating plastic rehardens!

7


----------



## hoss (Jan 10, 2010)

7sleeper said:


> But only as long as it is running real fast. As soon as you stop the soft and lubricating plastic rehardens!
> 
> 7



You are right. That is why I try to keep my saws spinning at about 22,000 RPM. Then they cut great......for a bit. Funny thing though. They occasionally seem to wanna stop suddenly in the cut and digest a bunch of cash when they are set up like this.


----------



## AKDriveSprocket (Jan 10, 2010)

When you come across a tree hung up in another tree and using a rope too pull it down, rap your choker around the tree. This helps to roll the tree out of the other as you pull it.


----------



## teacherman (Jan 10, 2010)

056 kid said:


> When filing, cram a wedge between the chain & bar to tighten the chain without wasting mucho time fiddling with your wrench..
> 
> i learned that here..



I was always taught that if the chain is snug without sagging, while still moving freely, the drive sprocket will last a LOT longer, as will the drive links.
I could never fit a wedge between the chain and bar.

Shop tip: Gorilla® duct tape can be used to vacuum check a saw. One piece on the carb manifold, one on the freshly cleaned exhaust port flange. Stick a vacuum pump in the impulse line, and pump away. You may have to rub the tape to be sure it is stuck on there well, but it will hold sufficient vacuum to ensure the seals are good.

Ammo can has a pair of hemostats as well as the other things mentioned previously. I will add a small paint brush to clean around the flip caps before opening them.


----------



## pyromaniac guy (Jan 10, 2010)

some great ideas in this thread. thanks guys...


----------



## catbuster (Jan 10, 2010)

madhatte said:


> Geeze, we can't keep our Fecon up and running for more than a week. That thing is *temperamental*! Maybe its all the slash it's asked to chew up for site prep? HMMM



I meant a cutting head in particular...


----------



## boda65 (Jan 11, 2010)

More of a wood burning tip, but here is a coal saver I made for my wife. She saw one in the Lehman's catalog but it was like 17 bucks plus shipping. I bought a cheapo ash shovel for 4 bucks, cut out most of the bottom and welded in a piece of expanded metal. Works good, seeing how little ash I am getting, I must have been throwing quite a few coals on the garden.


----------



## BigE (Jan 11, 2010)

I be that ash shovel would work well on a wood stove too.


----------



## constantine (Jan 11, 2010)

*LogRite Tools*

Just thought I'd mention a place which makes some really good tools, including log carriers. They are a bit pricey, but if you like good tools, you should check them out. The stuff is really built to last.

www.logrite.com


----------



## Philbert (Jan 11, 2010)

Butch(OH) said:


> After every use we clamp the bar in the vise for routine maintanance. makes that job sooo much easier. Of course any work in the clutch area requires the saw to be rolling around on the workbench . .



I have see some saw shops using this to hold a saw by the front handle while working on it. They are made for clamping bikes by the frame tubes. This is a bench mount version, there are also several free-standing models (www.parktool.com):






My simple bracket for clamping a chainsaw to a table for filing, when no vice or stump vice is available:










Simple bar cleaning tool (learned about it here on AS) - a used Sawzall (recip) blade with tape or heat shrink tubing around the teeth (*** Note: the blades come in different thicknesses - the thicker ones will not fit into .043 or .050 guide bars ***):






Philbert


----------



## Adirondack (Jan 11, 2010)

I keep a pair of tweezers in my bag of tools. It not only is useful for pulling splinters but most it is used for cleaning the bar grove.


----------



## rmh3481 (Jan 11, 2010)

If you find a stripped screw, for instance a handlebar hold down screw or pull starter screw - insert a short piece of a wire tie into the hole before putting the screw back in. This will make the stripped out hole just small enough to allow the screw to tighten and hold. 

Use an old beat up or broken hacksaw blade to clean out a bar groove. Fits correctly and will go deep enough to clean out all the sawdust so the oil will flow the length of the bar.

Best wishes,
Bob


----------



## AKDriveSprocket (Jan 11, 2010)

Pickaroon or Hookaroon sure helps alot.


----------



## madhatte (Jan 11, 2010)

catbuster said:


> I meant a cutting head in particular...


Yeah, me too. The skid-steer is fine. The cutting head is a trouble-maker!


----------



## Philbert (Jan 11, 2010)

AKDriveSprocket said:


> Pickaroon or Hookaroon sure helps alot.



That's an Ice Axe!

Philbert


----------



## Gologit (Jan 11, 2010)

Carry extra bar nuts. If you're working in snow or a lot of duff paint your scrench, your axe handle, your lunch box, your thermos, and all those extra bar nuts red. Don't use blue paint...blue paint makes the foresters nervous.


----------



## madhatte (Jan 11, 2010)

Gologit said:


> Don't use blue paint...blue paint makes the foresters nervous.


HA HA. You got me.


----------



## AKDriveSprocket (Jan 11, 2010)

Yep but works good as a pickaroon.


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 11, 2010)

Gologit said:


> Carry extra bar nuts. If you're working in snow or a lot of duff paint your scrench, your axe handle, your lunch box, your thermos, and all those extra bar nuts red. Don't use blue paint...blue paint makes the foresters nervous.



Why is that? 

I can see red being OK with them, seeing how much they like safety! safety stuff is orange which isent far from red...


----------



## gwiley (Jan 11, 2010)

056 kid said:


> Why is that?
> 
> I can see red being OK with them, seeing how much they like safety! safety stuff is orange which isent far from red...



I use electric blue (light blue) paint on all my woods tools. Red and orange blend too well with fall leaf colors on the ground. I have never seen a light blue leaf.


----------



## madhatte (Jan 11, 2010)

We use blue to mark our timber sale stuff. Blue where I didn't put it = me lookin' for why.


----------



## Gologit (Jan 11, 2010)

madhatte said:


> We use blue to mark our timber sale stuff. Blue where I didn't put it = me lookin' for why.



LOL. Yup. Except when somebody gets their wires crossed and marks all the leave trees with blue. I just finished one like that. Private ground and I think they made it up as they went along.


----------



## Gologit (Jan 11, 2010)

gwiley said:


> I use electric blue (light blue) paint on all my woods tools. Red and orange blend too well with fall leaf colors on the ground. I have never seen a light blue leaf.



If I'm ever cutting in your part of the country I'll try to remember to repaint everything before I show up.


----------



## madhatte (Jan 11, 2010)

gologit said:


> if i'm ever cutting in your part of the country i'll try to remember to repaint everything before i show up.



agreed


----------



## slowp (Jan 12, 2010)

madhatte said:


> We use blue to mark our timber sale stuff. Blue where I didn't put it = me lookin' for why.



Yup. Then some of us have to get our Junior Chemistry set out and do the super secret test to see if it is super secret paint or not. Gologit might not like super secret hazardous chemicals on his tools.


----------



## gwiley (Jan 12, 2010)

I just got a vision of someone taking a saw to my blue handled cant hook and hickory handled mauls!!! For timber sale? 

I guess I could excuse someone mistaking my tools for timber sale material if they are running one of the monster saws - I have experienced the temporary insanity that comes from running the 372 where you just end up cutting anything that resembles wood that is within reach. (keep that old station wagon with the veneer sides away from the unit for crying out loud).


----------



## Gologit (Jan 12, 2010)

slowp said:


> Yup. Then some of us have to get our Junior Chemistry set out and do the super secret test to see if it is super secret paint or not. Gologit might not like super secret hazardous chemicals on his tools.



LOL...that wouldn't be good. You and Madhatte are right about all of us knuckle draggers carrying a couple of cans of blue paint...thats a big no-no these days.

Ruud makes a color that's pretty close, though.


----------



## BigE (Jan 12, 2010)

I always throw in a can of mosquito repellent. The 40% DEET kind. I'm allergic to mosquitoes, so they really bug me. (sorry for the pun). As a bonus, I found that it keeps the other little critters away, even the bees.

If I'm running the splitter, chipper, or just using the axe I'll put on the worktunes earmuffs. Running the saw, though, I don't have them turned on normally, unless I'm just bucking up some little stuff.

The cloth gloves that have the blue rubber over them work very well when using the chainsaw, but keep them away from gas as it will eat through them quick. After a day's work, throw them in the wash with the jeans and they come out nice and clean.

Bucking to length for firewood, use the Mingo Marker. Best method I've used thus far, and I've used a lot of them.

I've got a little lawn tractor I drive up into the woods and use it to haul firewood, especially if I'm using the bigger tractor to move the chipper around. For better traction, I had the rear tires filled with Rimguard. Cost was about $30 at the American Tire Factory. HUGE increase in traction. I also have chains, but rarely have to use those.


----------



## gwiley (Jan 12, 2010)

The mention of bugspray reminds me, the best way to keep ticks off is to spray your boots and lower portion of pants legs with DEET before you go into the woods. Keeps the ticks from crawling onto your pants.


----------



## Philbert (Jan 12, 2010)

BigE said:


> I always throw in a can of mosquito repellent.
> 
> The cloth gloves that have the blue rubber over them work very well when using the chainsaw, but keep them away from gas as it will eat through them quick.



Bug spray is a good idea, especially with the risk of Lymes disease (ticks) in some areas, aside from the flying bugs.

Don't know where you buy your gloves, but these cloth 'dipped' gloves are available with a wide variety of coatings (latex, neoprene, nitrile, PVC, etc) as well as in different fabrics (cotton, polyester, kevlar, etc.) they all kind of look the same. 

But if you work through a safety or industrial supply house, or contact one of the manufacturers via their website, you can probably find a suitable pair that is resistant to fuel. You might have to buy a few more pair at a time, but the cost is sometimes better than buying a pair or 2 at a time at a hardware store, so it will balance out.

Philbert


----------



## BigE (Jan 12, 2010)

Philbert said:


> the manufacturers via their website, you can probably find a suitable pair that is resistant to fuel. You might have to buy a few more pair at a time, but the cost is sometimes better than buying a pair or 2 at a time at a hardware store, so it will balance out.
> Philbert



I'll have to check that out. Right now I'm going through the ones my brother got for me. He worked at a lumber mill and they got a 12 pack for $22. I bought a couple of the 12 packs 3-4 years ago, and then he gave me more later, so I still have 12 or so new pairs left, plus another 5-6 pairs here and there. I keep a pair in each vehicle, and 3-4 pairs in the shop.


----------



## Philbert (Jan 12, 2010)

Sounds like you are set for a while!

Philbert


----------



## Positrack (Jan 13, 2010)

For those of you using bug spray (particularly the stiffer varieties that actually work), keep in mind that the stuff will attack some plastics. If it does, it'll make one heck of a sticky mess. When I use it, I usually use either the "Woodsman" 40% Deet (IIRC) or if I'm space/weight limited I'll carry a little pump bottle of the 100% Deet. I always keep a little bottle of that in the pickup and another with my camping gear. Just a dab'll do ya' with that stuff but it's the worst about melting plastic in my experience. You also do NOT want to get it on your lips.


----------



## madhatte (Jan 13, 2010)

Positrack said:


> Just a dab'll do ya' with that stuff but it's the worst about melting plastic in my experience. You also do NOT want to get it on your lips.


Correct on both counts.


----------



## slowp (Jan 13, 2010)

I used to clean my metal tapes off with the army surplus jungle juice bug stuff
It took pitch right off them.


----------



## teacherman (Jan 17, 2010)

boda65 said:


> More of a wood burning tip, but here is a coal saver I made for my wife. She saw one in the Lehman's catalog but it was like 17 bucks plus shipping. I bought a cheapo ash shovel for 4 bucks, cut out most of the bottom and welded in a piece of expanded metal. Works good, seeing how little ash I am getting, I must have been throwing quite a few coals on the garden.



I made one out of hardware cloth and copper pipe to clean out the ash and leave the coals when it is too cold to let the stove burn itself out completely. I like yours better.


----------



## pyromaniac guy (Jan 22, 2010)

i know this thread is 5 days dead, but now is the first time i have had to add to it...

we can usually drive almost right up to the wood we are cutting, but in the instances we can't, we hand carry everything. my father-in-law takes limbs down to about 1" in diameter. i bought a few canvas totes (the open kind with handles) and load those up to carry the wood in to the truck. saves many trips...


----------



## Philbert (Jan 23, 2010)

pyromaniac guy said:


> . . . my father-in-law takes limbs down to about 1" in diameter. i bought a few canvas totes (the open kind with handles) and load those up to carry the wood in to the truck. saves many trips...



For little stuff, throw down one of those cheap blue tarps, load it up, and drag it to the truck/trailer, etc. Lasts several trips, although, it will not longer be waterproof. You could use a better tarp, but why ruin it?

Philbert


----------



## 7oaks (Jan 24, 2010)

Okay, since I've read a couple posts about Deet for ticks to prevent lyme disease I'll add one trick I learned years ago while working with biologists in the jungle.

I keep a bottle of Doxycycline (antibiotic) in the fridge. Whenever we find a tick on ourselves or our dog we take one of the pills (or in the dog's case give it to him). I was told that if taken within 12 to 24 hours of a tick bite it will prevent lyme disease (and rocky mountain spotted fever). Unfortunately I learned this after a nearly fatal bout of a form of tropical lyme disease.

Caveat emptor - I'm not a doctor so I'm not giving medical advice - just telling you what works for me.


----------



## Kogafortwo (Jan 24, 2010)

*couple of things from today's cutting session*

Went out to get some free wood today and a couple of things occured to me that y'all would find useful. They might already be on here somewhere but I didn't read through 12 pages of posts. And Axe Men has a double header on starting in 24 minutes, can't miss that.

1. I measure firewood length with my bar: 18" fireplace length is my 16" bar plus out to the first or second bar nut. Just eyeball it with your bar, mark the spot with your eye, and cut.

2. I line my trailer bed with old OSB, so I can flush cut short pieces right on the trailer and not worry about scarring anything up. I think I can afford a $10 OSB panel when this one wears through.

3. I planned my trip home from cutting today to drive by Northern Tool. Spent $12.86 on a gallon of bar oil, a cheap tarp, and 2 pair of $0.99 gloves. I passed on the $29 timberjack altough I have been wanting one.


----------



## HuskyMurph (Jan 24, 2010)

*probably been said already*

for bar oil i use my old tide detergent bottles the big ones will hold a gallon of bar oil and have a nice pour spout. and any run off goes back into bottle and not all over outside.. use to use aunt Jemima syrup but seem like always refilling them.


----------



## Rowan Gliori (Jan 25, 2010)

7oaks said:


> Okay, since I've read a couple posts about Deet for ticks to prevent lyme disease I'll add one trick I learned years ago while working with biologists in the jungle.
> 
> I keep a bottle of Doxycycline (antibiotic) in the fridge. Whenever we find a tick on ourselves or our dog we take one of the pills (or in the dog's case give it to him). I was told that if taken within 12 to 24 hours of a tick bite it will prevent lyme disease (and rocky mountain spotted fever). Unfortunately I learned this after a nearly fatal bout of a form of tropical lyme disease.
> 
> Caveat emptor - I'm not a doctor so I'm not giving medical advice - just telling you what works for me.



Doxycycline's pretty effective at stopping malaria infection too... It's just a very broad spectrun antibiotic, but needs to be taken regularly for a week or so before arriving in a malarial zone. 
Deet's just nasty... There are alternatives, certain essential oil combinations work pretty well, and have the added bonus of not dissolving plastic on contact!


----------



## 7oaks (Jan 25, 2010)

Rowan Gliori said:


> Doxycycline's pretty effective at stopping malaria infection too... It's just a very broad spectrun antibiotic, but needs to be taken regularly for a week or so before arriving in a malarial zone.
> Deet's just nasty... There are alternatives, certain essential oil combinations work pretty well, and have the added bonus of not dissolving plastic on contact!



You're exactly right - we used to take it for a month before heading overseas into malaria country, while there for a couple months then for a few weeks upon return. Kinda messes up your digestive system when taken that long as it kills all the gut's good bacteria as well.
*
Hey Rowan just saw you are in Scotland. The wife and I'll be over there sometime in July - Glasgow then Island of Barre. Got friends there who always show us a great time. Love your country!*


----------



## gee_dubya75 (Jan 29, 2010)

*drip free bar oil container*

I just started using this jug recently--no drips at all.

View attachment 123401








Sorry even after reading bsnellings post on embedding images I'm having problems getting it to work.


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 29, 2010)

Ok,i have to ask.

Why the heck do yall put bar oil in a container different from what it came in???????

that to me is like opening a 12oz beer, & pouring it in an empty 12oz beer can. . .



WTF:monkey::monkey::monkey:


----------



## Philbert (Jan 29, 2010)

056 kid said:


> Why the heck do yall put bar oil in a container different from what it came in???????



Some guys have difficulty with the delicate task of pouring sticky bar and chain oil from the gallon jug into the small filler hole without spilling it all over everything.

You can buy it in one quart containers, but it it a lot more expensive that way. It's hard to keep funnels clean in the field. So, the thrifty, neat chain saw user buys it in gallons and transfers it to more suitable field dispensers at home/in the shop.

If any oil vendors were lurking, they should get the idea now to sell it in bottles similar to those used for gear oil.

Philbert

(by the way, ever pour a beer from a keg, into a pitcher, then into a glass before drinking?)


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 29, 2010)

I ran saws in below zero temps where you could hold the oil jug upside down & nothing would come out.

All you have to do is give it a squeez & it will come outta there. .

I guess Im just different. . .

yes I have, but that would be like moving the bar oil from the drum to the gallon jug, not moving the oil from the gallon jug to the other gallon jug . . . . . . .


----------



## gee_dubya75 (Jan 29, 2010)

056 kid said:


> Ok,i have to ask.
> 
> Why the heck do yall put bar oil in a container different from what it came in???????
> 
> ...



Just to clarify I actually transferred the bar oil from a one gallon container to a 1.34375 gallon container.


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 29, 2010)

What ever yall fallas want to do, you wouldnt be ####in around near as much if you where tryin to make money i guess . . .


----------



## Freehand (Jan 29, 2010)

Easy there '56...... to each his own.............


----------



## Steve NW WI (Jan 29, 2010)

056 kid said:


> Ok,i have to ask.
> 
> Why the heck do yall put bar oil in a container different from what it came in???????
> 
> ...





056 kid said:


> What ever yall fallas want to do, you wouldnt be ####in around near as much if you where tryin to make money i guess . . .



Not sure what making money has to do with it. I buy bar oil bulk 5 gallons at a time. I'll use whatever I like to fill the saws. Right now I prefer quart containers, but I reserve the right to try Tide containers if I want. Pour your bar oil outta a five gallon jug if you want to.


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 30, 2010)

The making money part deals with wasting time. . . . . .

the rest i dont know, a quart of bar oil wont get me through a buisy day . . .


----------



## Madsaw (Jan 30, 2010)

Philbert said:


> Some guys have difficulty with the delicate task of pouring sticky bar and chain oil from the gallon jug into the small filler hole without spilling it all over everything.
> 
> You can buy it in one quart containers, but it it a lot more expensive that way. It's hard to keep funnels clean in the field. So, the thrifty, neat chain saw user buys it in gallons and transfers it to more suitable field dispensers at home/in the shop.
> 
> ...


 The fastest way I found to use a gallon jug is leave the foil seal on it. Then take the scernch and make one hole in the foil to meter the oil out slower. In teh winter just ssquezze it.



056 kid said:


> I ran saws in below zero temps where you could hold the oil jug upside down & nothing would come out.
> 
> All you have to do is give it a squeez & it will come outta there. .
> 
> ...



Synthetic is the way to go for winter. For some reason we can by a synthetic here all yr long that is much cheaper then all other bar oils on the shelf. Lots of times you can catch it on the shelf on sale for 2.99
Bob


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 30, 2010)

A gallon for 2.99?


Dang!!

where is that?


----------



## billmartin (Jan 30, 2010)

A little time saver that I try to do if the trees are small(under say12-14"across) cut them to the length of your hauler and process them at home. 

Takes a little grunt but just load the big ones first


----------



## PasoRoblesJimmy (Jan 30, 2010)

Philbert said:


> Some guys have difficulty with the delicate task of pouring sticky bar and chain oil from the gallon jug into the small filler hole without spilling it all over everything.
> 
> You can buy it in one quart containers, but it it a lot more expensive that way. It's hard to keep funnels clean in the field. So, the thrifty, neat chain saw user buys it in gallons and transfers it to more suitable field dispensers at home/in the shop.
> 
> ...



Just reuse empty 1-quart gear oil bottles as bar oil bottles; Or, screw the cone-shaped filler-caps on empty gear oil bottles onto 1-quart bar oil bottles.


----------



## HuskyMurph (Jan 30, 2010)

PasoRoblesJimmy said:


> Just reuse empty 1-quart gear oil bottles as bar oil bottles; Or, screw the cone-shaped filler-caps on empty gear oil bottles onto 1-quart bar oil bottles.



good idea. i use to use syrup ones but they break easy and if you cut alot of wood have to refill them alot. them tide ones work great easy pour and no oil on outside. also think they hold over a gallon of bar oil.


----------



## gwiley (Jan 30, 2010)

billmartin said:


> A little time saver that I try to do if the trees are small(under say12-14"across) cut them to the length of your hauler and process them at home.
> 
> Takes a little grunt but just load the big ones first



Me too. Learning to be able to shoulder a 10' stick can be a great time saver - I always try to load sticks onto the pickup truck then buck them at home as it greatly reduces the number of times I have to handle each round.


----------



## Madsaw (Jan 30, 2010)

056 kid said:


> A gallon for 2.99?
> 
> 
> Dang!!
> ...



In a chain of farm stores that cover Wi, iowa and Ill. Regular price is usally 4.99. Works great in the winter. Not as sticky as normal bar oil. I am hoping next tiem they have a sale on it to pick up 2 cases.
Bob


----------



## dh1984 (Jan 31, 2010)

HuskyMurph said:


> good idea. i use to use syrup ones but they break easy and if you cut alot of wood have to refill them alot. them tide ones work great easy pour and no oil on outside. also think they hold over a gallon of bar oil.



why heck yea i always used the sun detergent jugs with the push button built in to the top but don't let your saw teeth get close to the side of it tho


----------



## Greystoke (Feb 1, 2010)

Burvol said:


> That's what your Spencer tape nail is for besides going into your logs.



You ever tried the brazed nails made by "john day riggin"? (or you could make your own, if you know how to braze) 






These things are awesome! I was amazed at how much lighter it made my tape, and consequently, how much faster she reeled in, especially nice when you are bushelin!






The bad thing is if you are used to cleaning out your bar groove with your tape nail, because the john day nails are round and won't fit in the groove






I ground down my carb screwdriver to fit in my bar groove to the bottom. It has been a while since I last bought these things but they were relatively cheap...25 cents a piece for a hundred.


----------



## Greystoke (Feb 1, 2010)

WadePatton said:


> yeah, the little clip is too frail for heavy work clothes. like the lanyard idea.
> 
> also, i've not used them yet, but i'm sawing out wedges from the stumps of the osage. report later.



When I was Falling Timber full time I always kept my "tuning fork" on my suspenders. I wear the heavy buckle suspenders and where the leather is sewn onto the elastic is a perfect place to stab the screwdriver into the leather. I have posted this pic before but it is the best one I have to display my screwdriver...you can see it on my right strap, by my whistle, and ear plug case.






Another thing is my ear plug case...saw an old prescription pill bottle in half; be sure that the top half is deep enough to fit your plugs; saw the bottom half about a 1/4" from bottom and insert it into the top half and black tape; Cut slits into lid and insert zip-tie for attaching to suspenders...they work great, and your plugs stay a lot cleaner.


----------



## WadePatton (Feb 20, 2010)

sweet. whole toolbox up on the straps eh. no need for plugs with the combo plastic helmet thing.

i hadda do some digging/re-rigging today after i went for the tuner and it was in my front pocket--under the chaps!

and yep, that spot is perfect. just realized i still had 'spenders on and eyeballed it.

who's next?


----------



## macj (Feb 25, 2010)

*Bar Stuffed*

I have a couple of old husqvarna bars that came out of the factory at 058 guage and new 058 guage chain I found slopped around excessively. Different story though when I tried 063 guage chain, far less slop - sort of like new bar/chain combo!


----------



## silverzuk (Feb 25, 2010)

Packing in, I wore an old army canteen belt with suspenders (LBE). I had one canteen full of water. I put saw gas in a 1 liter bottle in one cateen cover, and the bar oil in a 20 oz bottle in another.

I wore this when clearing brush and small trees on strip mines in the steep mountains in Fayette County WV working close to the truck, but the steep slopes made it so you didn't "run back to the truck". You start cutting at the truck and work your way out. You would work until you ran out of something (usually water). Go back to the truck, fill up, and go again. It was a whole lot easier to climb with that rig opposed to carrying the gas can and oil bottle.
You could also drop the rig and put it back on with ease when you got to a bench.


----------



## GPETER (Feb 25, 2010)

The guy teaching my chainsaw cert course made a chainsaw tool box for the bush made out of a piece of 6in diameter PVC pipe with a screw cap glued to one end and a regular cap on the other. 

The pipe is air and water tight because the screw cap has an O ring on it. 

He just cut the legnth of pipe to fit the longest tools like a file and scrench.


----------



## Philbert (Feb 25, 2010)

GPETER said:


> The guy teaching my chainsaw cert course made a chainsaw tool box for the bush made out of a piece of 6in diameter PVC pipe with a screw cap glued to one end and a regular cap on the other.



How does he carry it? Did he add a handle?

I have made a number of PVC tubes for holding things like hacksaw blades, jig saw blades, recip. blades, etc. out of smaller diameter pipes. But 6 inch pipe is kind of chunky for holding things that would fit into a small tool bag, tool box, pouch, etc.

Just curious.

Philbert


----------



## firewoodman! (Feb 25, 2010)

Arrowhead said:


> Sometimes the simplest little technique makes life a lot easier when it comes to working on or cutting with chainsaws. If you "discovered" something simple that helps out, post it. Even if you think think its minor or if you think everybody else is already doing it, who cares, post it. I'm sure everybody had that _why didn't I think of that earlier_ thought before. Whether its tools or techniques. A couple small things I do when I cut are, I use a plastic milk crate for my gas can, gallon of bar oil, and I save empty gear lube bottles for bar oil. They all fit in the crate nicely. The gear lube bottles are easy to fill at home from the gallon, and are great to use when filling the saw in the woods, no mess. When I cut I pull a 14' wood trailer with me. Where I cut there are a lot of cornfields and wood lots, so after the fields are picked I can usually get the truck and trailer close to where I'm working. I mounted a portable air tank on the tongue of the trailer with about 5 feet of hose and a blowgun on the end. This will reach the tailgate where I like to gas and oil. I use the blow gun to clean all the saw dust away from the filler caps before I open them. It does not take much air and will last all day. Yes, very minor things, but they help.



im sure most of u know but for those who dont if you need to rip blocks tip the block on its side so its laying flat you will get 3 inch shavings and a lot easier on the saw


----------



## GPETER (Feb 25, 2010)

Philbert, I think that he puts it in a pack with his lunch and other stuff. Cant go into the woods without a ham sammy!

Maybe it was 5" I didint take a good look, but he had everything an instructor should have in there extra pull cord, bar nuts, wedges...

He also said that he has seen loggers make a tool kit with an old pair of jeans by cutting the legs off just below the crotch, then sew the bottom shut and put a drawstring through the belt loops to cinch it closed. Another idea I guess...


----------



## 2dogs (Feb 25, 2010)

tarzanstree said:


> When I was Falling Timber full time I always kept my "tuning fork" on my suspenders. I wear the heavy buckle suspenders and where the leather is sewn onto the elastic is a perfect place to stab the screwdriver into the leather. I have posted this pic before but it is the best one I have to display my screwdriver...you can see it on my right strap, by my whistle, and ear plug case.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I know this pic has been up awhile but... Cody are you wrong handed or do you have 2 wedge pouches?


----------



## Greystoke (Feb 25, 2010)

2dogs said:


> I know this pic has been up awhile but... Cody are you wrong handed or do you have 2 wedge pouches?



No, just one pouch...I just never liked my wedge pouch on the other side...it seemed to always be bumpin my elbow, and buggin me, so I got used to runnin it this way. It keeps things balanced when you have one or two tapes on the other side too.


----------



## Arrowhead (Aug 9, 2011)

I buy a box of 200 3oz. Dixie Cups at Walmart for a buck something. They work great for mixing oil, 3oz per gal gives a 42:1 mix. Quick, easy and cheap.


----------



## sloweather (Aug 9, 2011)

RobertN said:


> --I do not have a decent first aid kit for out in the field. Worse, I am and EMT, so I KNOW I should have one... Even worser, I am first aid merit badge counselor, and one of the requirements is for the boys to make one. I do have one, but it is pretty simple and usually in my Scout pack. Will put that on this weeks todo list.


 
I know this is an old post, but instead of a "first aid kit" we carry a "trauma kit" with a more extensive array of equipment and supplies. We purchased the last one from practicaltrauma.com.


----------



## Philbert (Aug 9, 2011)

Arrowhead said:


> I buy a box of 200 3oz. Dixie Cups at Walmart for a buck something. They work great for mixing oil, 3oz per gal gives a 42:1 mix. QUOTE]
> 
> I did something similar when I had some bulk 2-cycle mix. Took a Dixie cup and very carefully measured in 2.6 ounces of water with a syringe, then marked that height with a Sharpie marker. I used that cup to 'calibrate' a bunch of other cups that I stacked inthe garage next to the oil. Disposable mix cups.
> 
> ...


----------



## sloweather (Aug 9, 2011)

MREs... Everything you need in a shelf stable bag good for 5 years. Some even include a pouch heater that uses water.

I keep a full emergency kit in my Avalanche at all times; food and water, cutlery, first aid kit, space blanket, toiletries, a lil snort of hooch, spare socks, a little cash, light sticks, some Sterno, matches, etc. I figure I could live in the truck for 2-3 days if I had do.



Gologit said:


> Nobody takes a LUNCH ?? Gotta have a lunch. I also keep a "care package" under the seat...sardines, beanie weinies, crackers, stuff that has a good shelf life for those days when things go wrong and you're out there longer than you planned. Or have to stay out there all night 'cause the road slid in. Beanie weinies are terrible but they're better than trying to make soup out of boiled bootlaces or trying to kill squirrels with a rock.


----------



## sloweather (Aug 9, 2011)

Walt41 said:


> Search "bobcat logsplitter" on you tube, it will ruin you everytime you split.



Years ago, I was working a Saturday as a wastewater plant operator. A co-worker showed up with a truck bed full of rounds. He got out the backhoe, set up on a flat dirt area, and used the hoe bucket teeth to scribe out an arc on the dirt.

Then he set the rounds up centered on the arc, and proceeded to use the bucket teeth to systematically split every round in half. After a quarter-rotation of the logs, he resplit them into quarters.


----------



## Evanrude (Aug 9, 2011)

*Here's my toolbox of goodies*





















Plus forestry helmet, gloves, hankerchief, safety glasses, and an axe.


----------



## wudpirat (Aug 9, 2011)

*Helpful Tips*

As Erick stated backl on #52.
PULP HOOKS AND PICKEROONS are a time saver for handling wood.
A pulp hook stuck into a round is a built in handle, one in each end allows two people to handle a heavy piece.
My pickeroon has a 16" handle and is perfect for stacking/ unstacking splits. Just hook'em and put'em where you want them.
My biggest problem is leather gloves, I'm going broke buiying them. Cheap or expensive don't make a difference they wear quick.
I don't like the heavy duty foundry type, no feeling, I prefer the thinner driving type.
It's not firewood until it's cut, split and stacked. Until then it's just wood.


FREDM


----------



## DFK (Aug 9, 2011)

I once had to cut a 50' tall, 2' throught the middle, dead pine in a customers yard.
The only way it would fall, with out hanging up, was right over the top of his water meter.

Not wanting to bust up is water meter I covered it with a 4' X 4' piece of plywood then placed an old truck tire on top of that.

The plywood spred the force out over a much wider area and the tire sofened the blow a lot.

I scored a direct hit on the tire and the water meter was fine.

David


----------



## redoakneck (Aug 17, 2011)

7oaks said:


> Okay, since I've read a couple posts about Deet for ticks to prevent lyme disease I'll add one trick I learned years ago while working with biologists in the jungle.
> 
> I keep a bottle of Doxycycline (antibiotic) in the fridge. Whenever we find a tick on ourselves or our dog we take one of the pills (or in the dog's case give it to him). I was told that if taken within 12 to 24 hours of a tick bite it will prevent lyme disease (and rocky mountain spotted fever). Unfortunately I learned this after a nearly fatal bout of a form of tropical lyme disease.
> 
> Caveat emptor - I'm not a doctor so I'm not giving medical advice - just telling you what works for me.


 


Do not use tetracycline if it is out of date. Great stuff and has saved many lives, just watch the expiration date so you don't smoke your kidneys!!!


----------



## joeymt33 (Feb 18, 2012)

i don't have a picture to show for this right now but, i hate how the modern day fuel cans that don't have that air vent on the opposite side of the spout. it was really nice to be able to flip that cap and pour without the chugging that causes spilage. on these newer ventless cans, i've drilled a half inch hole and inserted a tire valve with the core removed. now when pouring fuel, i can remove the black cap and have a vent to pour easier and faster if needed. also, you can pour fuel from the tire valve if needed.

i welded a vise on a hitch ball mount, i can take the vise with me in the back of the truck and insert it into any two inch receiver to use the vise. i liked it so much that i welded some 2" square tube to my trailer at 40" high so i can insert the vise at that location for me or anyone to use.

if you haven't tried the "Ratio-Rite" cup, you need to. i love it. google it to see it. it has all ratios on the cup for mixing different quantities. 20:1 through 100:1 i think is on it. 

the previous post about flipping the saw upside down to help with filing, i love it! makes me feel stupid since i've filed 10 miles of chain and never thought of it.


----------



## MEATSAW (Feb 29, 2012)

You can use a scrench as an oil funnel. Its not ideal but on some saws the location/size of the oil fill is cumbersome -- and in a pinch the scrench does the job just fine. Wipe it off at the end of the day though.


----------



## demc570 (Feb 16, 2014)

alot of great info here,thought i bump it


----------



## demc570 (Feb 16, 2014)

alot of great info here,thought i bump it


----------



## Warped5 (Feb 18, 2014)

RobertN said:


> A piece of double jacket fire hose makes a GREAT bar/chain protector.



Yep!!


----------



## Jeff Lary (Feb 18, 2014)

Well this is very interesting stuff I was wondering if I had anything to add. Now I know that you should always wear eye protection but even with my screen shied I still get stuff in my eyes from time to time. My kit contains a 4" spot mirror the kind a dump truck may have below the full size one. It has saved me many slow painful trips back home to dig saw dust or some other crap from one of my eyes. As far as gear I take a lot of stuff but one thing I always have is a spare re-coil.
Also I would like to see some plunge cut demo's I have done it a few times but most of my trees I cut for fire wood are 24" and under. I was wondering if people plunge cut on trees that size or just the larger stuff? Great idea Ed,...and wonderful information form you all thanks . Jeff


----------



## demc570 (Feb 19, 2014)

bump again for the newbies-----great info here


----------



## Wood Doctor (Feb 19, 2014)

It would be easy to write a small book incorporating all of the tips that are posted here in this thread (hint for budding authors). Tens of thousands of copies could be sold. I'm not sure that a "1000 Chains Saw Tips" book has ever been published. Here's a rule I've been following lately when collecting firewood at a drop site or in the woods:

Bring to the site no less than two saws of different size, no less than four sharp chains, and no less than three bars.


----------



## demc570 (Feb 19, 2014)

YEP,THAT WHY I KEEP BUMPING IT,I FOUND MANY NEW IDEAS I NEVER THOUGHT OF!!!! IT BE NICE IF THE IDEAS WERE IN A FORMAT ON HERE SOME WHERE,WERE NEW OR VETERANS ALIKE COULD FIND THESE IDEAS EASY........


----------



## hobitopia (Feb 19, 2014)

Jeff Lary said:


> Also I would like to see some plunge cut demo's I have done it a few times but most of my trees I cut for fire wood are 24" and under. I was wondering if people plunge cut on trees that size or just the larger stuff? Great idea Ed,...and wonderful information form you all thanks . Jeff


I plunge cut just about everything with enough room too. It doesn't take any extra time and I appreciate the extra piece of mind.


----------



## hedge hog (Feb 19, 2014)

old dewalt drill driver case carries everything I need


----------



## Philbert (Feb 19, 2014)

We had several threads about the different tool boxes and carry cases guys used to keep their stuff together, or to carry into the woods. Many of those photographs were lost. Good to see some again!

Thanks.

Philbert


----------



## hedge hog (Feb 19, 2014)

it holds 6 plastic stihl chain boxes very tight , nothing slides around but the depth gauge tool ,tuning screwdrivers , spark plugs , black sharpie but they stay contained to there area. 
I double up on the 16" chain 2 per box
so on hand I keep 4 16" , 3 20" and 1 25"
two file guides .325 ,3/8
6 pack of hp in one gallon mix
I like to keep my fuel fresh by adding a gallon at a time to a 2.5 gallon jug
and you have to have at least a 16' tape measurer for bragging rights proof


----------



## BDM53ENT (Feb 20, 2014)

Couple weeks ago I couldnt find the scabbard for my Super Wiz so being the cheap bast^$d I am I grabbed some insulation tubing and made it work. Sometimes you got to do what you got to do. I never leave home without a bed full of saws!


----------



## demc570 (Feb 20, 2014)

BDM53ENT said:


> Couple weeks ago I couldnt find the scabbard for my Super Wiz so being the cheap bast^$d I am I grabbed some insulation tubing and made it work. Sometimes you got to do what you got to do. I never leave home without a bed full of saws!


----------



## demc570 (Feb 20, 2014)

nice!!!


----------



## J.Walker (Feb 20, 2014)

I spray paint the hooks on each end of my chains with Hivee orange so they don't get lost in the woods.


----------



## Wood Doctor (Feb 20, 2014)

I cut my own felling and bucking wedges that I use in the woods using scrap hardwood. A 4 to 5-degree wedge is about optimal with a pointed end. These are easy to lose, so I paint a blue stripe on them:



The loops hold several. I make these from scrap wire saved from political campaign signs.


----------



## Subieman406 (Feb 20, 2014)

wow there are so many great ideas to be had here. which one to try first.


----------



## 295 tramp (Feb 20, 2014)

Sometimes when I'm aways from the truck cutting I'll cut smaller wood in 8' lengths to cut down on trips back and forth from the brush to the landing
My saws are prepped the night before 2 bucking and 1 limbing. If I dull two chains in one day that's probably a full dump trailer and I'll call it a day.
I always carry a wheel barrel to hump it out to the landing. I carry most of the tools mention here and a few wedges and a youth axe.
I carry my camera and shotgun in the truck just in case I see something interesting or tasty.
For me wood heat is the way to go because fuel oil is 3.75 a gallon and propane just shot up to 4.75 a gallon.
It has been in the -0 at night here for 2 months and probably through march.
Happy Cutting
Randy


----------



## hedge hog (Feb 20, 2014)

Wood Doctor said:


> I cut my own felling and bucking wedges that I use in the woods using scrap hardwood. A 4 to 5-degree wedge is about optimal with a pointed end. These are easy to lose, so I paint a blue stripe on them


 
I found out why stihl wedges are orange ,,,
so when they fall down through the cut on the big logs (that you don't know what there going to do pinch or spread)
and hits the top of your bar and launches it a mile its a little easier to find

Wood Doctor,
that's a good idea to make your own might try some out of hedge or pecan

yours looks like red oak?
you cutting them on a table saw or band saw?

might tie a long pink ribbon to mine


----------



## Wood Doctor (Feb 21, 2014)

hedge hog said:


> I found out why stihl wedges are orange ,,,
> so when they fall down through the cut on the big logs (that you don't know what there going to do pinch or spread)
> and hits the top of your bar and launches it a mile its a little easier to find
> 
> ...


I usually cut them from an 8" wide x 10" long slab of 2" thick hardwood using a table saw with a dedicated ripping blade. You can use a tapering jig or my simpler technique: Tape a 3/4" thick spacer peg on the slab near the end furthest from the saw blade (between the fence and the slab) and set the fence at 1/8" closer than the slab width. Rip with the end of the slab flush and the spacer peg flush to the fence. The cut off "waste" forms the first wedge.

The second wedge is created by removing the peg and ripping again, moving the fence 7/8" closer to the blade. The slab is then flush to the fence along its entire length. The third wedge is created by taping the peg to the near end again and moving the fence 7/8" closer to the blade. Continue cutting wedges until only an inch or so of stock is left. That's the real waste.

The wedge shapes are then crosscut for symmetry at the thick ends by using a second one positioned half-way up and underneath the one being trimmed. That way you will form a long isosceles triangle. I generally sharpen the pointed end slightly with a disk sander.


----------



## anlrolfe (Feb 22, 2014)

Storm56 said:


> I always take a second saw or at least an extra bar and chain in case I stick one. Hey guys we all do now and again. Saved my bacon a couple of times.



My 2nd hand Stihl 026 came with an interesting "notch" in the top of the chain brake handle.

Near as I can figure somebody got a little close while "cutting it free"


----------



## anlrolfe (Feb 22, 2014)

nanuk said:


> *zippo!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> ...



IMCO Super is an alternate to ZIPPO. I find that it holds fluid longer period of "non-use"


----------



## anlrolfe (Feb 22, 2014)

WadePatton said:


> more zippo: eff the dimestore card of flints. just pick up disposed of disposable lighters for the best and cheapest flints. rip the top off and extract. easy.
> 
> *and zippo fluid is coleman fuel is naptha. * use this info at your own discretion.
> 
> ...



Coleman fuel has a little bit of corrosion inhibitor added. 
It is much cheaper by the gallon than from Ronsol
English may call this "Panel Wipe"
Learned this from "Coleman Collectors" and "Classic Camp Stoves" SpiritBurner.com
By the way, they hate "dual fuel" stoves that suffer from results of ethanol blend fuels


----------



## anlrolfe (Feb 22, 2014)

Philbert said:


> Some guys have difficulty with the delicate task of pouring sticky bar and chain oil from the gallon jug into the small filler hole without spilling it all over everything.
> 
> You can buy it in one quart containers, but it it a lot more expensive that way. It's hard to keep funnels clean in the field. So, the thrifty, neat chain saw user buys it in gallons and transfers it to more suitable field dispensers at home/in the shop.
> 
> ...



Bar oil usually comes with either plastic or heavy foil seal on the top of the jug. I slice out a wedge leaving most of the seal intact. If its not coming out fast enough, squeeze gently. Either way it give a smaller stream that's easier to control than a big GLUG


----------



## AT sawyer (Feb 22, 2014)

Wood Doctor said:


> I cut my own felling and bucking wedges that I use in the woods using scrap hardwood. A 4 to 5-degree wedge is about optimal with a pointed end. These are easy to lose, so I paint a blue stripe on them:
> 
> 
> 
> The loops hold several. I make these from scrap wire saved from political campaign signs.


The edges look pretty clean. Do you hammer them in with a wooden mallet?


----------



## Wood Doctor (Feb 22, 2014)

The edges appear clean in the Pic because I had just finished making these. I usually use a 3-lb sledge hammer in the field, but a wooden mallet would also work well. Thanks for reminding me of that. In fact, the sledge is usually overkill. I have several hardwood mallets in the shop that I have made.

These wedges don't last forever, but they work very well. One of my logger buddies goes through about a half-dozen wedges a year. He says that he'd rather use mine than spend $50 a year on plastic ones.


----------



## jerry quinn (Feb 22, 2014)

joeymt33 said:


> i don't have a picture to show for this right now but, i hate how the modern day fuel cans that don't have that air vent on the opposite side of the spout. it was really nice to be able to flip that cap and pour without the chugging that causes spilage. on these newer ventless cans, i've drilled a half inch hole and inserted a tire valve with the core removed. now when pouring fuel, i can remove the black cap and have a vent to pour easier and faster if needed. also, you can pour fuel from the tire valve if needed.
> 
> i welded a vise on a hitch ball mount, i can take the vise with me in the back of the truck and insert it into any two inch receiver to use the vise. i liked it so much that i welded some 2" square tube to my trailer at 40" high so i can insert the vise at that location for me or anyone to use.
> 
> ...


I hear ya on the vise I did the same thing.


----------



## Knobby57 (Feb 22, 2014)

BDM53ENT said:


> Couple weeks ago I couldnt find the scabbard for my Super Wiz so being the cheap bast^$d I am I grabbed some insulation tubing and made it work. Sometimes you got to do what you got to do. I never leave home without a bed full of saws!


You have to be a man to run some of these. Hhhmph I feel like a wimp . Where to you put your cut wood?


----------



## shootingarts (Feb 22, 2014)

I have caught myself making a simple mistake carrying a saw, perhaps others are doing the same. Generally the saw is facing away from me when I pick it up in my work area. I grab the saw and twist it around with the bar facing the rear. Sounds fine except for one little detail, I'm now holding the saw with an underhand grip, palm forward.

If I trip the saw handlebar is between my hand and the way it naturally wants to travel to catch myself. I need to release the saw and wait for it to fall free before starting to swing my hand forward to catch myself or I need to fling it clear as I start down then reposition my hand to catch myself. In all likelihood reflexes are going to cause me to try to catch myself with hands in front, saw and all since I either can't let go of it or will let go of it while propelling it right to where I am falling since my palm and fingers are behind the handlebar as I try to release my grip.

All I need to do to prevent this is be mindful that I have the saw in an overhand grip with the bar and the palm of my hand facing the rear when carrying it. That way the saw will fall cleanly giving me the best chance to save myself and it is even easiest on the saw since it just falls pretty much straight down from hand high.

A little thing but carrying the saw in an overhand grip may save me some stitches someday. If nothing else it may save me from a saw damaged when I have to toss it.

Hu


----------



## Wood Doctor (Feb 27, 2014)

Here's a simple tip that many guys forget. Storing a saw on a concrete slab such as a garage floor for a length of time sets up a chemical reaction that eats into the bottom. Lacking shelf space or a case, a simple solution is to rest the saw on a couple off folded up newspaper sections or a piece of scrap plywood rather than in direct contact with the concrete.


----------



## Jeff Lary (Feb 27, 2014)

When you are ready to adjust the chain, hold up and pull back on the rear handle a little when you tighten the bar bolts. By doing this you are simulating what happens when you put down pressure on the bar when you saw. Thus you take up the little bit of possible later movement before you tighten the bolts and your adjustment will last a lot longer before needing it again. Also in the middle of the bar grab a cutter and pull up out of the bar groove. You should be able to see 5 driver come completely up above the bar. That is the way I was taught to check for correct chain tension, I have been doing this for 30 years and never had an issue with a too tight chain.


----------



## Real1shepherd (Feb 28, 2014)

gwiley said:


> A few felling tips:
> 
> *Try the open face scarf*
> I converted to the open face cut for most of my falling and have enjoyed fewer surprises. The key is to make sure that the hinge stays in-tact as long as possible - the traditional scarf will force the hinge to break while the tree is only 1/2 way down.
> ...



The problem with your open face scarf or 'split the difference cut' as it's called more commonly around here is the scale you're wasting. If you're a firewood gatherer, it's a very safe fallin' cut. If you're a logger, you're losing too much scale off the log butt for your show and especially if your gypo boss expects you to use Humboldt cuts. You can use a modified Humboldt by opening up your angle cut more and increase the safety factor. What a lot of modern fallers have never been taught is stump shot. The height of your stump shot will keep the butt of the tree from coming back at you...in any of the cuts. I see guys coming in at an inch above(or less) on their back cut and I just cringe.

Kevin


----------



## shootingarts (Feb 28, 2014)

Real1shepherd said:


> The problem with your open face scarf or 'split the difference cut' as it's called more commonly around here is the scale you're wasting. If you're a firewood gatherer, it's a very safe fallin' cut. If you're a logger, you're losing too much scale off the log butt for your show and especially if your gypo boss expects you to use Humboldt cuts. You can use a modified Humboldt by opening up your angle cut more and increase the safety factor. What a lot of modern fallers have never been taught is stump shot. The height of your stump shot will keep the butt of the tree from coming back at you...in any of the cuts. I see guys coming in at an inch above(or less) on their back cut and I just cringe.
> 
> Kevin




Kevin,

Talk a little more about stump shot please. Makes sense to me but I have also seen people knocking not placing the back cut even with the apex of the cut or very slightly above, that inch or less you are talking about. If you don't mind give me numbers. Say, a thirty inch pine at cut height, a hell of a lot lower than DBH if you are logging, what top and bottom angles are you using for your notch and how high above the apex are you cutting the back cut? How high above a Humboldt would you come?

Any downside that you know of other than a little scale loss from placing the back cut a few inches higher which I believe is what you are suggesting?

Thanks for any additional information. I have cut down a few dozen or so large trees over the years just as a land owner but I'm getting older and gimpier all the time and it gets more important to do things right the slower I move. Cutting more trees than I used to now too, I need the wood.

Hu


----------



## Real1shepherd (Feb 28, 2014)

shootingarts said:


> Kevin,
> 
> Talk a little more about stump shot please. Makes sense to me but I have also seen people knocking not placing the back cut even with the apex of the cut or very slightly above, that inch or less you are talking about. If you don't mind give me numbers. Say, a thirty inch pine at cut height, a hell of a lot lower than DBH if you are logging, what top and bottom angles are you using for your notch and how high above the apex are you cutting the back cut? How high above a Humboldt would you come?
> 
> ...



Hey Hu,
I was taught fallin' by an old logger on the west coast. He was adamant and without finding the old book of Douglas Dent's, so was Dent on stump shot...the rule on stump shot was at least 3-4inches. You could have more on large trees, you just lose scale. The height of the stump shot counteracts(with the hinge wood), the tendency of the tree butt to sometimes kick back at you as it's going down. No downside...just some scale loss versus your life. I'm not letting any wood's boss tell me to cut lower because he's losing scale...it's about saving my ass.

So using the Modified Hombodlt, my favortie...your first cut about a third of the way in, depending on rot or frozen wood. Then my angled face cut is around 60 degrees..wedge chunk falls to the ground and pushed out of the way. Always clean your face cut up AFTER you get the wedge chunk out if your lines didn't meet up perfectly...don't ever do multiple cuts with the wedge chunk still in place. This is also a good time to recheck your fallin' angle. Backcut after scribing both sides with a lumber crayon, is at least three-four inches above the first cut. Always at least palm a wedge in as soon as it fits. Wedging and use of a tree jack is a discussion for another day.

You'll be thrown off most jobs I worked if you're trying a conventional or 'split the difference'(open face scarf cut) cut. It's a very safe cut for a novice though. But given most jobs on the west coast require Humboldt style cuts, I went with the modified which by its very nature lets the tree almost go all the way down before the face cut closes. That's the problem with conventional and Humboldt cuts.....depending on how much negative lean, the face can close way before the tree is completely down...increasing the chance of barber chair and the butt launching back at you.

Kevin


----------



## shootingarts (Feb 28, 2014)

Real1shepherd said:


> Hey Hu,
> I was taught fallin' by and old logger on the west coast. He was adamant and without finding the old book of Douglas Dent's, so was Dent on stump shot...the rule on stump shot was at least 3-4inches. You could have more on large trees, you just lose scale. The height of the stump shot counteracts(with the hinge wood), the tendency of the tree butt to sometimes kick back at you as it's going down. No downside...just some scale loss versus your life. I'm not letting any wood's boss tell me to cut lower because he's losing scale...it's about saving my ass.
> 
> So using the Modified Hombodlt, my favortie...your first cut about a third of the way in, depending on rot or frozen wood. Then my angled face cut is around 60 degrees..wedge chunk falls to the ground and pushed out of the way. Always clean your face cut up AFTER you get the wedge chunk out if your lines didn't meet up perfectly...don't ever do multiple cuts with the wedge chunk still in place. This is also a good time to recheck your fallin' angle. Backcut after scribing both sides with a lumber crayon, is at least three-four inches above the first cut. Always at least palm a wedge in as soon as it fits. Wedging and use of a tree jack is a discussion for another day.
> ...




Kevin,

Many thanks! I did follow you all the way through with no problem, well explained. I have wedges and I do use a safety wedge to prevent sitting back and pinch felling, pinch bucking too when it is hard to tell just which way the pinch will want to go. Something I haven't tried yet is jacking. I have the capabilities for jacking and winching and a couple trees that I may have to deal with that will require one or the other. I'm curious about jacking because I can tote the jack places I'm not set up to use the winch. No need to go into that now though, I have watched some video and don't know when I'll actually do any jacking. I'll try it on a tree or two where I could get by without it before one I'm counting on the jacks.

Hu


----------



## Real1shepherd (Mar 1, 2014)

shootingarts said:


> Kevin,
> 
> Many thanks! I did follow you all the way through with no problem, well explained. I have wedges and I do use a safety wedge to prevent sitting back and pinch felling, pinch bucking too when it is hard to tell just which way the pinch will want to go. Something I haven't tried yet is jacking. I have the capabilities for jacking and winching and a couple trees that I may have to deal with that will require one or the other. I'm curious about jacking because I can tote the jack places I'm not set up to use the winch. No need to go into that now though, I have watched some video and don't know when I'll actually do any jacking. I'll try it on a tree or two where I could get by without it before one I'm counting on the jacks.
> 
> Hu



Hu,
I used to have a Silvey 50 ton tree jack. It was amazing....but it was stolen. So....I replaced it with a 30 ton decent quality, hydraulic jack from NAPA. I went down to a machine shop and made a 5"x5" plate, one inch thick. I use that between the top of the ram and the tree surface. Works like a dream on good sized timber. Trick is cutting out your 'window' box for the jack....takes practice. You really need to know your saw here, because kickback from the tip as you plunge cut, can be brutal. 

I use wedges buckin' about as often as fallin'. Sometimes I guess wrong and the log peaks up and the wedge falls on the chain-better safe than sorry. Plus, I use the rattiest of my wedges for bucking....keep the pristine ones for fallin'. 

Kevin


----------



## shootingarts (Mar 1, 2014)

Real1shepherd said:


> Hu,
> I used to have a Silvey 50 ton tree jack. It was amazing....but it was stolen. So....I replaced it with a 30 ton decent quality, hydraulic jack from NAPA. I went down to a machine shop and made a 5"x5" plate, one inch thick. I use that between the top of the ram and the tree surface. Works like a dream on good sized timber. Trick is cutting out your 'window' box for the jack....takes practice. You really need to know your saw here, because kickback from the tip as you plunge cut, can be brutal.
> 
> I use wedges buckin' about as often as fallin'. Sometimes I guess wrong and the log peaks up and the wedge falls on the chain-better safe than sorry. Plus, I use the rattiest of my wedges for bucking....keep the pristine ones for fallin'.
> ...




Kevin,

I figure that all my wedges are likely to come to a bad end or be lost, ordered extras. Trying some quarter sawn gum too. I did stay away from the ones with steel inserts, murphy being murphy one way or another those steel inserts and my chain would find each other.

Have to strap them to the tree or consider that they will fall out but I have a ten ton toe jack and access to a couple much heavier ones. Heavy in more ways than one, they are chunks! Anyway, I was thinking a couple pieces of heavy plate to spread the load and use the toe jacks, I would be able to cut a much smaller box, only about two to three inches tall. This is a link to toe jacks in case you aren't familiar with them, not the ones I would be using.

http://moveheavystuff.com/lifting-solutions#toejacks

Bought my old Napa bottle jack when I had an eighteen wheeler in the mid eighties, still going strong! The Napa stuff wasn't cheap but it used to be quality.

Hu


----------



## Real1shepherd (Mar 1, 2014)

Hu,
Thanks for the link...didn't know what they were. The compact toe jacks look _very_ interesting....but the one I like is $2,000+!! I just did some research and found out that Silvey no longer makes tree jacks.....so what's out there is out there....what a total pisser. Time to start looking around the two states....

For awhile, I had some aluminum wedges that if hit the chain, took most of the abuse without dulling the chain. Haven't seen them for yrs. The only problem with plastic wedges is that with some hard-case trees, you can pretty much demolish them by the time the tree comes down. 'Course if the tree is good scale, it doesn't really matter....but it does matter if I had twenty more trees yet to cut. When things are going that hard, I usually break out the tree jack.

On that modding & porting site I mistakenly got into.....I had to laugh to myself at the guy talking about making one load for a day. If I couldn't cut at least three log truck loads in a day, it wasn't worth walking onto the site. The rule of thumb was that more than 25 logs to a load and you were in crummy scale timber....basically tree thinning. 

I'm gonna call Silvey Monday and ask why they still feature their tree jacks on their site, but they're not supposed to be made anymore....I'm confused.

Kevin


----------



## shootingarts (Mar 1, 2014)

Kevin,

Hasn't been too many years since my friend bought the bottle style toe jacks. Pretty big but I don't remember the ton rating. Looked like 30-50 ton jacks but I assume they are downrated as toe jacks. Pretty sure they were under five hundred each. Those slide in jacks are cute but like you say, they like them! Have to find some at auction or from an equipment reseller. Kind of thing you mostly find when you aren't looking for it. Got a call in to my friend, I'll see if I can get any info on those jacks.

A chuckle about loads, I was talking to a great large raw boned country boy that had grown up in a pulp wooding family. He told me he used to hand load a truck load of short logs by hand every day by himself and think nothing of it. Best I recall about six and a half cords and a pretty tough throw to the top of the load when you got that high. I never batted an eye, told him I wouldn't think much of doing it myself!

I've worked very hard sometimes but not if I could avoid it. When the pay was $20 a day for farm help I used to pay twenty for two or three hours work, annoyed the local farmers. I explained to them that I worked four tens then drove 750 miles each way to get 520 bales of alfalfa. Got caught once loading the hay alone in a five or six hundred feet long co-op barn. The hay was by the door, the closed door the farmer didn't have a key to! My truck fit between 20'-30' tall stacks of hay like a cork blocking what little air was back there, no light to see if there were snakes in the hay, quite a job for a man still looking at a 750 mile run home and then helping unload and stack the hay in time to catch a nap and hit work Monday morning climbing iron hanging insulation and sheet metal. From then on I made sure laborers came running when they saw that red cabover hit the town limit!

Hu


----------



## Real1shepherd (Mar 1, 2014)

Hu,
Lol....on the work ethic thing. Unfortunately for our generation, there was little regard to safety. If you were a 'company man' you could easily let them work you to the point were you were bent & broken. Fortunately for me I was lucky and had wanderlust....so I keep moving around the country picking up trades as a challenge. What that enabled me to do was move to the next state and so on and so forth. Loggin' I truly loved, but the bosses where simply, slavers and you were their red meat...at least the gypos. On the other hand, work for one of the big outfits like Crown Z and the pace was so slow, you wonder how they ever got any wood moved to the mills. I just got tired of chasing my check down on later Friday afternoon with the gypos, or listening to the excuses of why there wasn't enough payroll that week, or how it was "you fallers fault", etc. Too hard and too dangerous to deal with that. I almost got into horse loggin' up in northern Idaho once...but got distracted with something else. 

The young fallers, they don't wanna hear the old tales...they know it all...until they're killed or maimed for life.....but then that's youth to a large degree. At least I was respectful and tried to pull all I could out of the old guys while they were still around.

I did a CL search last night for Silvey jacks....was really disappointing. Only found the backpack set with two jacks and the pumping station for $2,000! And the set-up looked really rough. I don't need anything more these days than the single jack. There were two school on tree jacks; the guys that cut a row for them and used them from the start with their back cut. And then the guys that used them if they had too. I fall into the latter category, unless I have negative lean and will start out with the jack. Of course if you were down in CA into Cypress and Redwood, you'd be in the first category. 

Kevin


----------



## shootingarts (Mar 1, 2014)

Kevin,

One of my blessings too, I was always smart enough to listen to the old timers. Most youngsters know it all and want to go and blow and impress everyone, definitely the way to get hurt bad. I have always found that the worst paying people were the ones that always expected the most from you and the greatest loyalty, yours to them, not theirs to you. Always told them straight up that I was a company man . . . and my company was my wife and children. PO'ed more than a few bosses and company owners but I knew I'd be out the gate the moment they didn't need me for two days running. A bit gypo myself so I didn't mind telling bosses how the cow ate the cabbage.

Funny story about old and young, I was working by where two laborers were cleaning up three or four inches of blasting sand off the concrete and from between beams and equipment. There was an old overweight laborer looked to be in his sixties and a young hard fellow, looked to be a body builder type, muscles everywhere. The youngster would hit it and sling sand like a steam shovel for about ten or fifteen minutes then stand there with his tongue hanging out just as long. The old man only buried his shovel about a quarter to a third of the way into the sand and moved as slowly as molasses on a cold day. At the end of the day the older laborer had moved three times the sand the youngster had!

I'm just piddling with cutting down a few trees myself, mostly to feed my woodturning. I don't need a bunch of equipment and if push comes to shove I can usually find another way of doing things or leave a particular tree alone.

One saw died yesterday, brittle fuel lines from before it was mine. The other saw started acting up today. Looks like I'm going to play saw mechanic awhile. Changed out fuel lines but I seem to have a carb needing disassembly and cleaning, not sure about this other one. Days like this I hate small engines. I hate pulling on a rope more than a couple times and not getting any noise. Good fresh gas, don't know what the issue is.

Hu


----------



## Real1shepherd (Mar 1, 2014)

shootingarts said:


> Kevin,
> 
> One of my blessings too, I was always smart enough to listen to the old timers. Most youngsters know it all and want to go and blow and impress everyone, definitely the way to get hurt bad. I have always found that the worst paying people were the ones that always expected the most from you and the greatest loyalty, yours to them, not theirs to you. Always told them straight up that I was a company man . . . and my company was my wife and children. PO'ed more than a few bosses and company owners but I knew I'd be out the gate the moment they didn't need me for two days running. A bit gypo myself so I didn't mind telling bosses how the cow ate the cabbage.
> 
> ...



Hu,
I know the young versus old story only too well! I always hire young adults for my business, because they get such few chances around here unless they stay in school, get student loans and pay them back for twenty yrs...lol. Anyway, I've had the athlete and the body builder type....absolutely dead at the end of the day and little real output _over_ the day. I've also had slender kids who I bulked up in a couple of months to their maximum physical potential. I always gravitate to the kids who want to work & learn...the ones that come out to show 'the old man up' don't last the week....sometimes just a day or two.....and so it goes. They must like working for me, because the ones who leave that worked OK, always ask to come back at some point.

Unless you're getting premium without ethanol, this gas is killing our saws. I see more corrosion damage in a yr on the carb than I ever saw in ten back in the day with 'normal' gas. Good luck...hope it's just simple fuel/carb related problems. I don't go into the field with less than three saws anymore. We have LOTS of rocks around here from ancient seas and such...my eyes can't catch them all like I used to. I've got a brand new loop of chain that I hit a rock with. Now, I have to take all the cutters back to match that one really damaged one. Take forever with the G-107, 36" bar and all the saw shops around here just grind round file chain.....so the loop sits on a nail. Stuff like that bugs me.....almost like oppression.

Kevin


----------



## shootingarts (Mar 1, 2014)

Kevin,

Once a month or so I stock up on nonethanol premium from a full service station that doesn't sell any gas at all with ethanol! Don't know how long he will get away with that but I have a feeling he will padlock his pumps when he can't do things his way. Pretty independent older fellow and while it is name brand gas I strongly suspect he owns the very old gas station himself.

I have some rock here, not too bad. What gets me is old wire. This area has been settled since long before the war of northern aggression. Old wire and old metal of any kind may show up anywhere. My eyes aren't as sharp as they once were and I tried to cut a piece of smooth wire awhile back that was in some brown vines the same size. Lucky that was semi-chisel on that chain so it wasn't too bad to clean up, took me about three laps around filing. No more efficient but easier on my patience if I don't file too long on each tooth. I am using a granberg but chasing a 107 or thinking about having some ends machined for one of these granbergs I have to square file like you can with the 107. I have a couple loops of full chisel but they are round ground. RSLK, RSLHK, RSLFK, chain can't be had here anymore, may be some distributers that still have it though.

Are you square filing Stihl or another brand? Unsure what chain I want with all of the RSLK chains gone. The RSL is still available.

Hu


----------



## AT sawyer (Mar 1, 2014)

Real1shepherd said:


> Hu,
> 
> 
> For awhile, I had some aluminum wedges that if hit the chain, took most of the abuse without dulling the chain. Haven't seen them for yrs. The only problem with plastic wedges is that with some hard-case trees, you can pretty much demolish them by the time the tree comes down.
> ...


I bought a dozen Littco wedges for about 4.00 ea. two years ago. not very wide, but they drive and hold much better than plastic, and resist spitting, even in frozen wood:
https://www.wilderness.net/toolboxes/documents/tools/Crosscut Saws/Aluminum Wedges for Crosscut Saws.pdf


----------



## Real1shepherd (Mar 1, 2014)

shootingarts said:


> Kevin,
> 
> Once a month or so I stock up on nonethanol premium from a full service station that doesn't sell any gas at all with ethanol! Don't know how long he will get away with that but I have a feeling he will padlock his pumps when he can't do things his way. Pretty independent older fellow and while it is name brand gas I strongly suspect he owns the very old gas station himself.
> 
> ...



Hu,
I use all WoodlandPro 43RCS skip-tooth chisel now on everything. It comes round filed though and so it changes to square file the first time I sharpen it with the G-107. I should be getting paid on Monday, so I'll wander over to the machine shop and see what he's done with the G-107 toward the end of the week and report back in that thread.

Kevin


----------



## Real1shepherd (Mar 1, 2014)

AT sawyer said:


> I bought a dozen Littco wedges for about 4.00 ea. two years ago. not very wide, but they drive and hold much better than plastic, and resist spitting, even in frozen wood:
> https://www.wilderness.net/toolboxes/documents/tools/Crosscut Saws/Aluminum Wedges for Crosscut Saws.pdf



Thanks a lot for the link!!

Kevin


----------



## shootingarts (Mar 2, 2014)

Kevin,

Sounds good on the update, might want to wait till Tuesday to check with the machine shop, everybody hates Mondays. Well unless it is "payday" then you might make an exception! I used to own a business up in the piney woods of central Louisiana, was worth coming to work Mondays just to hear what everyone got into over the weekend. Lucky I was just working four to six people, would have lost too much time down at the courthouse bailing them out of minor scrapes if I had worked any bigger crew.



AT sawyer said:


> I bought a dozen Littco wedges for about 4.00 ea. two years ago. not very wide, but they drive and hold much better than plastic, and resist spitting, even in frozen wood:
> https://www.wilderness.net/toolboxes/documents/tools/Crosscut Saws/Aluminum Wedges for Crosscut Saws.pdf



Thanks a bunch for the info! The only aluminum wedges I had seen didn't look like they would last long enough to talk about just driving them. Might have to give some of those a try. Definitely want to save the information in my suppliers list.

Hu


----------



## Shagbark (Mar 2, 2014)

I use an ammo can for chain, scrench, spare plug, sprocket grease, etc. A fabric softener bottle with a pour spout and drain back feature for bar oil. All this gear, and chaps, maul, and fuel cans fit nicely in a recycle bin container. Seems some cities abandoned their recycling program and I ended up with a couple of handy bins.
Another handy item is a paint pen to mark the cutter you start with when you
sharpen your chain.


----------



## Real1shepherd (Mar 3, 2014)

Good ideas there....I always use a lumber crayon to mark chain, because I always have one on a key return clipped to my pocket for marking logs......

We all had those recycle containers here, however the city presented everyone one day with large recycle cans.....so we all were in possession still of the small containers. At least nobody asked for mine back....anyway, they are great totes.

Kevin


----------



## WHSH (Mar 3, 2014)




----------



## Real1shepherd (Mar 3, 2014)

Awwwww....look at the puppies! Cool old lathe....

Kevin


----------



## WHSH (Mar 3, 2014)

Real1shepherd said:


> Awwwww....look at the puppies! Cool old lathe....
> 
> Kevin


Yes, those are my boys, and its 1941 south bend 9 with the 48" bed. I traded saw work for it.


----------



## Real1shepherd (Mar 3, 2014)

WHSH said:


> Yes, those are my boys, and its 1941 south bend 9 with the 48" bed. I traded saw work for it.



Great trade!! 
There's a guy on my car forum that has a Lab named 'Proton'....I think that's about the coolest name I ever heard for a dawg....

Kevin


----------



## Wood Doctor (Mar 7, 2014)

Now I know you guys will think I'm nuts, but sometimes I talk to my saws and my truck when I'm working at a job site. The equipment seems to perform and co-operate better. Sure, it's all psychological, but anything that works and makes my job easier is money in the bank for me. I root for the saws as they cut and apologize to them when I hit the ground with the bar and chain by accident. When I overload my truck, I give her encouragement as she works her butt off, straining to deliver the load.

I guess equipment sometimes becomes an extension of your personality. You get attached to it. Treat it with respect, and it will usually return the favor. In my book, sometimes that means talking to it.


----------



## Real1shepherd (Mar 8, 2014)

shootingarts said:


> Kevin,
> 
> Sounds good on the update, might want to wait till Tuesday to check with the machine shop, everybody hates Mondays. Well unless it is "payday" then you might make an exception! I used to own a business up in the piney woods of central Louisiana, was worth coming to work Mondays just to hear what everyone got into over the weekend. Lucky I was just working four to six people, would have lost too much time down at the courthouse bailing them out of minor scrapes if I had worked any bigger crew.
> 
> ...



Hu,
Talked to the machine shop guy.....back at square 1. Even when I told him that he just has to make the jig ends, he says he doesn't know how he can do it for just $100. So I said I'm alright with a $140 or so...but not to go crazy. He' still seemed disinterested. I'm not going two hundred on this...not for two small machined ends. I made it really easy for him....I don't understand.

Kevin


----------



## cobey (Mar 8, 2014)

keep two hands on a saw at all times when yer running it, and dont walk into a spinning chain with your left leg


----------



## Axfarmer (Mar 8, 2014)

Real1shepherd said:


> Good ideas there....I always use a lumber crayon to mark chain, because I always have one on a key return clipped to my pocket for marking logs......
> 
> We all had those recycle containers here, however the city presented everyone one day with large recycle cans.....so we all were in possession still of the small containers. At least nobody asked for mine back....anyway, they are great totes.
> 
> Kevin


I use about 6 recycle bins for kindling wood, I strap one to the front of my atv when I'm in the woods to keep a stock of dry fire starter.


----------



## Philbert (Mar 8, 2014)

Wood Doctor said:


> Now I know you guys will think I'm nuts, but sometimes I talk to my saws and my truck when I'm working at a job site.



*Wood Doctor-Dolittle!*

Actually talking to your equipment might make people think that you are not a guy to steal saws from, so there might be an advantage there.

Philbert


----------



## shootingarts (Mar 10, 2014)

Real1shepherd said:


> Hu,
> Talked to the machine shop guy.....back at square 1. Even when I told him that he just has to make the jig ends, he says he doesn't know how he can do it for just $100. So I said I'm alright with a $140 or so...but not to go crazy. He' still seemed disinterested. I'm not going two hundred on this...not for two small machined ends. I made it really easy for him....I don't understand.
> 
> Kevin



Kevin,

Actually I think we are home free other than having to use the triangle file. I'll try to get some pictures in the next few days but all we have to make is one knob and an adapter or just the knob and use a quarter inch drive 3/16 socket on the other end.

A comment to everyone about talking to the equipment, my brother had a computer business maintaining business networks and such. He always gave the servers and such men's names. When asked why he told the customers, "Because I don't talk to ladies the way I talk to these things!" I might have blessed a stubborn piece of equipment or software a time or two myself.

Hu


----------



## WHSH (Mar 13, 2014)




----------



## WHSH (Mar 13, 2014)

Real1shepherd said:


> Great trade!!
> There's a guy on my car forum that has a Lab named 'Proton'....I think that's about the coolest name I ever heard for a dawg....
> 
> Kevin


Hi twin is Neutron, and his kids, electron and orbital?


----------



## Jeff Lary (Mar 13, 2014)

Axfarmer said:


> I use about 6 recycle bins for kindling wood, I strap one to the front of my atv when I'm in the woods to keep a stock of dry fire starter.


I bet your a good fella an all but anyone who takes that much time and effort in his wood pile needs therapy . Now Please lay back and tell me about your childhood........... It looks very very nice great job you sick sick man !


----------



## DanTheCanadian (Mar 13, 2014)

I weld a chain link to the top of my scrench, then clip in a carabeener. You can hook it anywhere on you, won't fall out of a pocket, and its secure. Also, spray paint *EVERYTHING *hi vis orange!!


----------



## Real1shepherd (Mar 13, 2014)

DanTheCanadian said:


> I weld a chain link to the top of my scrench, then clip in a carabeener. You can hook it anywhere on you, won't fall out of a pocket, and its secure. Also, spray paint *EVERYTHING *hi vis orange!!



I like that idea. My orignal tool set that came with the first Husky 2100 I ordered from Bailey's, had an orange handle carb screwdriver that I coveted for decades. Then....someone else liked it better.

Kevin


----------



## Real1shepherd (Mar 13, 2014)

WHSH said:


> Hi twin is Neutron, and his kids, electron and orbital?



Dunno....that would make him pretty kooky and so I just stopped at the dog part....more information in this case may not be better....

Kevin


----------



## Wood Doctor (Mar 16, 2014)

Here's another tip that paid off for me yesterday. Always carry a spare bar nut or two in addition to the ones on the saw. I was changing chains with the saw on the tailgate of my truck. After I removed both nuts, I flicked one of them with my finger and knocked it off the tailgate between the truck bed and the bottom edge. Somehow it found one of the two slot holes in the tailgate and dropped right in, making it impossible to retrieve. The chances of doing this again are almost nil, but it happened.

I had a spare bar nut in my tool box so I could finish the job, but running a large saw on one nut only is not a cakewalk and recommended by nobody. That nut may rest inside my tailgate forever because it will likely take me several hours to get it out and hardly worth the time and effort. BTW, any tips on that process would be appreciated.


----------

