# New to carving



## Cornfed (Apr 1, 2011)

I'm new to carving and would like to learn more about the secrets. I've tried to carve the "Cute Little Bear" like the author on the video I bought, but it wasn't a bear but some kind of woodland creature? My point is, is there someone that can give me some pointers on how to carve and what kind of wood to use? I was told to use soft wood instead of hard wood? I have a 017 stihl that I was thinking of putting a carving bar and chain on. Is this a good saw to use? Any help would be great! :help:


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## lumberjackchef (Apr 1, 2011)

Welcome to the site! 

I am in no way a professional carver or any type of expert on this subject but can only speak from my experience as an avid reader, researcher on all things chainsaw/wood related, and carver for the the past 4 years. There is a lot to talk about and not really that much specific information out there. But I believe this is because the preferred tools, types of wood, and methods of sculpting are as numerous as the amount of people who use them. So I have been trying to prepare a free how to page on my website, once I get it done, that will hopefully jump start the newbie carver and give them an overview of the basics in each of these and other categories. I will also be adding some detailed videos to further enhance the free info provided.

Protective/Safety Equipment
Safe Saw Handling 
Tools-various bar/chain set ups, grinders, attachments,torches,etc
Types of Wood
Jigs/Tricks/Tips
Subtractive Sculpture 101
Finishing Techniques


It is an ever expanding work in progress but one day i will get it all put up on the web. 


From the looks of your signature you are not new to chainsaws and have access to several different saw sizes.

This is great because the most limiting factor for a carving newbie can be access to the equipment which can be cost prohibitive for some. 

The reason i say this is because I find the best way for me to get the desired results, without exhausting myself, is to start with a plan of attack for my specific project.

Here is a typical example of the process I will use to do a small bear or equivalent:


Wood Type-ERC-Eastern Red Cedar

Saw#1Ported 60cc range saw wearing Low Pro 3/8 with a small radius 18"sprocket tip bar--Blocking out (the major material removal)

Saw#2 45cc range sawwearing 14" quarter tip bar with 1/4" chain--Body shaping and minor detail

Saw#3 30cc range rear handle saw wearing a 12" dime tip bar with 1/4" chain--all of the remaining detail and all lettering in signs

AS you can see I use several saws set up different ways. This is why there are so many variables that be specific to the carver and it all depends on your preference of cc/bar/chain/sprocket size. I always tell people "if it works for ya then use that". This just happens to be what has become my preferred set up for small(under4') carvings. 

Using this set up I can easily carve a 3-4' bear or equivalent in less than a tank of fuel in each saw, usually in under an hour. This is why I like this set up so much---Speed!

I also know exactly where and how much to cut when doing the blocking out portion of the work. This makes it take shape very quickly. Usually within 15 minutes I will already have 90% of the negative space removal completed.

If you have never done subtractive sculpture before, then it is very helpful IMHO to buy some modeling clay and practice your subject several times using a small blade and mimicking the cuts of your saw instead of just shaping it with your hands. It sounds strange but it will help you to visualize the whole process and this is imperative to getting a good result. After my first two to three cuts I will visualize my complete subject in the wood. 

Sorry for the Novel but maybe that gives you an idea of how one carver "gets er done"

Hope that helps a little. If you have any specific questions feel free to ask. If I have time I will try to respond, theres not a whole lot of traffic over here on the carving /turning threads.


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## rb142 (Apr 1, 2011)

I think the 017 is a really good saw to start out with. You should get a carving bar set up for it, though you will want to do as much of the carving as possible with a regular bar and save the carving bar for the details. The dime tip bars and quarter pitch chain can wear the bar fast. You will have to swap the bar/chain/drive spur sprocket when going between bars if you don't have another saw, which can be a pain if you have to do it much.

The softer woods carve faster and easier, and some woods like cedar are desireable anyway for rot resistance. However, I don't necessarily think there is anything wrong with harder woods, especially when beginning. The harder woods carve slower, which gives you more time to make your cuts -- mistakes don't cut as deep or do as much damage.

There are a handful of videos out there if you look around a bit. IMO, the videos are fun to watch but don't really teach you much. Same goes for the books. If you can find some local carvers to hang out with, that would be the most effective way to pick up some tricks. But it mostly comes down to practice and more practice. Get some logs and some good pictures of carvings you like and try to copy what you see in the pictures. "Seeing" the carving in the log is the hard part, and a lot of us need to develop that over time.

Good luck and have fun with it. I'm new to carving too, but I can't wait to get back to carving up some more logs.


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## cowboyvet (Apr 2, 2011)

There is a great school on carving up in Wisconsin. I've never been but heard and read good stuff on it and its not far from you. Your 260 makes a great saw for most of the carving then step down to a dime tip for detail. My 260 is set up with .325 semi-chisel on an 18" bar and sees 90% use on my carvings. You can find a few cedars in your area but softwoods can be hard to come by. Maple would be easy to get in your area and a pretty good wood but it all boils down to what you can get your hands on and you will develop a preference. This may sound funny but the best advice I can tell you is to look at each piece as a piece of "fire wood". This means practice and if you screw up you can still heat with it.  Practice practice practice and you will see yourself improving faster than you think. You don't need to put a bunch of money into dime bars at first either until you find you have a knack for it. Most carving can and is done with a regular saw except for the finest detail after you can already see what it is going to be. Good luck and keep asking questions.


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## ultimate buzz (Apr 6, 2011)

*Beginning Carving*

Although the Wisconsin School of Chainsaw Carving up in Hayward is a fantastic school for a weeklong structured class, it is costly. About five years ago it was $1750.00 plus supplies for a five day class.

Geographically, you have two absolutely phenominal chainsaw carvers in your home state of Iowa, Gary Keenan and Ken Tynan.If I were in your shoes I would make a conserted effort to track these guys down, find out where they are carving and ask them if they would be kind enough to give you some pointers.

I help out Loghoggers in the summer and over the years have had the privelidge of watching and helping some of the best carvers in the United States. You would be suprised at how many of them do there finish cutting with a 12 inch quarter tip bar, running .325 and/or .375 chain.

To start out carving with a minimal expense, I would pick up a quarter tip bar and chain for your saw and experiment. If you get bit by the carving bug, you can always expand your arsenal.

The main thing is to carve safe. Elevate your work to a comfortable level,if you can. Secure your workpieces so they can't move, and try not to have your bar positioned so that it is in line with your face for the enevitable kick-back.

It is very easy to get caught up in the novelty/excitement of carving. Take breaks, step back from your work ocassionally so you keep features in proportion, and last but not least, when you feel fatigued, quit until you are rested and on top of your game.

As a beginning carver, you will be holding you saw a lot higher and in alot more awkward positions than if you were limbing or blocking out firewood.

Use the appropriate PPE and be safe.

Oh ,by the way,have fun and BE SAFE>-ken


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## Boydt8 (Jul 13, 2011)

I have been carving with a chainsaw for 4 years now. 
I use a stihl ms0250 to block out my cuts, then switch over to stihl 017 for my detail work.
However I do have a stihl 017 with carving bar 1/4 inch chain. I hardly ever use my carving bar set up. I do use it only for very detail carvings.
Mainly my carving are finished using the 017.

My main carvings are done from ponderosa pine, spuce trees.


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## menzhari (Aug 15, 2011)

I am also new to carving and I didn't know that it would be that hard. Know I appreciate wood carvers more.


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## GnawDog (Jan 17, 2012)

*How goes the carving Cornfed*

I found this step by step on carving a bear a while back. Maybe you could use it. Or maybe you are past that stage. Did you ever find a good carving saw set up?

Bearsteps.jpg picture by CarvingApprentice - Photobucket 

And here's an Owl

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r310/CarvingApprentice/Owl_step_by_step.jpg


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