# Best way to manually split fire wood



## TKO-KID (Nov 15, 2008)

Hey everyone what is the best way to manually split firewood. I kkep reading about a wedge . Do you place this in the wood and then it with the back end of the axe or with a maul.

I know this questions sounds stupid to most. But I grew up in the city and have never split wood but have recently installed a wood stove.( pics attached) in my garage. 

I have already got one 13-15 inch log that is about 7 inches tall that I am setting the other logs on to split. Tommorrow I will have a 33 inch log to set them on after I cut down a stump from today.

I have been using an axe so far, But am having trouble getting through some of the wood. I have a maul but it didn't seem to do anything it just bounced of the wood when I used it.


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## milkie62 (Nov 15, 2008)

Straight-grain wood with very few knots will split easily with a 6-8lb maul.Knotty wood and larger rounds will need a couple of wedges and a 10-12lb sledge.It is pretty hard to drive a 6 lb wedge with a 6 lb maul.An axe is way to much work and does not work with knotty wood.You will just get tired.Also you will need to "read" the block that you are splitting.Some parts will take less effort to split than others.


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## TreePointer (Nov 15, 2008)

Using a wedge is like hammering a nail. Start it by tapping the wedge into the log, and then stand back and give it a good whack or two or three....

Don't use your axe on a wedge--you can damage your axe head. Use the blunt end of your maul or a sledge hammer. For the really tough pieces, the heavier the hammer, the easier it will be.


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## Stihl051master (Nov 16, 2008)

A maul works the best for me, some people like using a wedge and a sledgehammer. I would not recommend hitting the wedge with the maul as most are not designed to be used that way. It depends a lot on what species of wood you're trying to split. If it's a tough splitting wood like elm it's going to be difficult to split no matter what you are using or how good your technique is. You might have some tough stuff there so don't get discouraged. The same goes if the pieces have a twist to the grain or a lot of knots. The best advice I can give you is to use some smaller pieces to practice on to find your rhythm and get your technique and accuracy down, then work up to the bigger ones. It takes a lot of time and practice to become proficient, but it's very satisfying when you do. It's great exercise also. Make sure you wear some good heavy steel toe boots and be careful.


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## jomoco (Nov 16, 2008)

And for god sakes wear safety glasses!

jomoco


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## chsrd (Nov 16, 2008)

*Splitting wood*

I have split countless cords of wood by hand. For large diameter pieces of wood (over about 18 inches in diameter) I use a metal wedge and sledge hammer. Start the wedge in the center of the wood and then pound it in - the wood will split in half. I do this with the wood on the ground. Next I lift the pieces onto a 15 inch tall chopping block. (Each year, I get a piece from the wood I am cutting for the season -this year I have a 36 inch diameter oak block). I split these larger pieces on the chopping block with a maul. Next, I switch to a single blade axe to split the smaller pieces into the size that will burn well in my wood stove. Your hardware store will have the metal wedge, sledge hammer, maul, and axe. I do not use the fancy wood splitting wedges or mauls; they probably work well, but I have not needed them. It is great exercise, and it is enjoyable to be outside working. I really enjoy splitting wood by hand!


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## chowdozer (Nov 16, 2008)

A maul and a couple of wedges is how I've done it for 30+ years. Hit it with the maul, if it doesn't split, put a wedge in the indentation and give it a few taps. Hit it with the backside of the maul.

In the beginning, until you get used to hitting a wedge with the maul, put a piece of radiator hose over the lower portion of the maul handle to keep from chewing up the handle when you miss. Eventually, you'll get to the point where you never miss.  

And buy a quality maul and wedges too.


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## KsWoodsMan (Nov 16, 2008)

All I use is a single bit axe. The technique I use is to turn the round upside down so the biggest end is up. I 'read' the wood to look for possible knots and find the biggest crack radiating from the center of the round. This is the place to start. It is already weaker through the crack and will usually give you the least resistance. The cracks dont always show up immediately. By the end of the day or in a day or 2 they will be easily visible.

Sometimes when splitting it is easier to go directly through the center of the fork or knot instead of off to the side. When you are cutting you will figure out that it is easier to cull part of the forked trunk. A little practice and you will figure out how much. If all else fails and you cant get it to bust apart on the coldest day of the year you can always resort to ripping it with the saw into managable sizes that fit in the wood stove.

If I added splitting wedges to the box I would use the same technique of starting in the biggest crack. If the round is hollow I will give the thinnest spot a few good whacks on the 'corner' to get things started. Another good point that was made was to start a spot with the maul for the wedge to go into. Takes less to hold it still so fewer chanbces of barking the knuckles with the sledge.


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## DonB (Nov 16, 2008)

If you do oak trees, you'll eventually have to rip some pieces with the saw because they simply will not be split.


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## Brushwacker (Nov 16, 2008)

I just wouldn't recomend the wedge maul splitting. No offense I just think its slow and riskiar in the long run. If you can't find a crack in the wood where you can get an axe or maul through with modest effort, go to your heaviest maul and with the proper technique if it doesnt split across try splitting slabs around the outside. You get to a point it doesn't split with modest effort, get the chainsaw and slice it in halves through the toughest knots until you can split it to size or its small enough. Wedges mushroom and fragments fly off. A freind of mine inhaled 1 while huffing from swinging sledge.
Before the chainsaw that was the best way to do it probably, todays tools are better and safer but still dangerous and work.


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## willsaw4beer (Nov 16, 2008)

:agree2: 
Like KS said, reading the wood is the best thing to do as it saves tremendous time and effort. If I were you I'd get a regular fiberglass handled splitting maul like they sell at Sears (what I've been using since I was 8, 23 now so 15 years of abuse, I can only estimate how many cords I've split with it.) I'm personally not a big fan of heavy mauls, I find accuracy and brute force split better than weight, and over 24'' you might as well use a sledge and wedges anyway. Knotted or twisted pieces you may want to cut shorter, say 12'' to 14'' lengths if you have to. Practice makes perfect, try swinging through the wood instead of just hitting it. I give my wrists a good snap, this seems to give the swing extra velocity.


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## TKO-KID (Nov 16, 2008)

yeah I am mostly splitting oak and sweetgum, and a little hickory here and there.

Yeah the one I am having the most trouble with are ones that the log turn slightly near the end. So when I set it on the log the part I am hitting is leaning slightly.

I think that is a big part of my problem. I think My maul is a six pounder with a fiberglass handle.

I think I might get one of these.http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=147592-302-1190700&lpage=none or this onehttp://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=147593-302-1190300&lpage=none


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## grandpatractor (Nov 16, 2008)

This is what I use when splitting by hand. It works well!! I just splitt some 24" rounds of oak with it tonight.
http://www.fiskars.com/webapp/wcs/s...ategoryId=10277&productId=10528&page=products


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## turnkey4099 (Nov 16, 2008)

You need the entire kit to split manually.

A good ax

A good 6-8 lb maul

At least two metal wedges.

10-12 lb sledge hammer to hit the wedges with.

As others pointed out, learn to read the wood. On a big round I start with the wedge(s) to halve it picking out a good clear path (no knots to go through around.

Usually then, the maul will split blocks the size I want with one or two swings.

I find that splitting "upside down", i.e. setting the block to be split with what was the top, down works easiest. Then eyeball to 'graze' any knot (don't try to split through one). I can usually wind up on a knotty piece with a 'graze" down each side of a big knot and have it small enough to fit the stove, if not, it goes on the "to be sawn apart pile" 

Get 'handle protectors' from the same place you get your other splittign supplies. They are rubber donuts that slip over the handle down near the head. Even with them, figure you will replace a handle now and then. Without them, you will replace a handle almost every year.

Harry K


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## olive_oil (Nov 16, 2008)

willsaw4beer said:


> :agree2:
> Like KS said, reading the wood is the best thing to do as it saves tremendous time and effort. If I were you I'd get a regular fiberglass handled splitting maul like they sell at Sears (what I've been using since I was 8, 23 now so 15 years of abuse, I can only estimate how many cords I've split with it.) I'm personally not a big fan of heavy mauls, I find accuracy and brute force split better than weight, and over 24'' you might as well use a sledge and wedges anyway. Knotted or twisted pieces you may want to cut shorter, say 12'' to 14'' lengths if you have to. Practice makes perfect, try swinging through the wood instead of just hitting it. I give my wrists a good snap, this seems to give the swing extra velocity.



:agree2:


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## Ductape (Nov 16, 2008)

My suggestion is to do what my father did................................. have kids!


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## ericjeeper (Nov 16, 2008)

*I prefer to manually split wood*

with a 28 ton maul.Swinging it sideways along a beam being pushed ever so diligently, yet forcefully until the wood is divided into as many pieces as one sees necessary.. Hydraulics are a wonderful invention.,


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## southbound (Nov 16, 2008)

TKO-KID said:


> yeah I am mostly splitting oak and sweetgum, and a little hickory here and there.
> 
> Yeah the one I am having the most trouble with are ones that the log turn slightly near the end. So when I set it on the log the part I am hitting is leaning slightly.
> 
> ...



Last year I used one of those Lowes axes. It did not last long till I broke the head. So this year I went back and got a 8 pound maul again from Lowes..This thing seems to just bounce off the rounds.. 

I have had some 30+ inch rounds of maple this year as well as the red oak and white oak and some gum beach and hickory... Now after reading some of the posts here I ordered a FISKARS SUPER SPLITTING.. Wow it is like cheating with this thing!! The price was comparable with the one I broke from Lowes..

Funny he had 19 or so when I bought mine on 10/23..
http://cgi.ebay.com/FISKARS-SUPER-SPLITTING-AXE-28-78546984-NEW-7164692_W0QQitemZ230285517722QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item230285517722&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A4|65%3A12|39%3A2|240%3A1318

Ok so now I do really like the Fiskars. It does great in strait grain. But the handle is kind of short. I am 6 foot 2 and can work with it no problems. I was just betting that something with a longer handle I could get a faster swing.So this lead mo to the helko Vario-2000 2300G Heavy Splitting Axe. This thing has made short work of all the big rounds that the fiskars would not split..I did get the 36 inch hickory handle and got a replacement as well.

All I can say is the wedges and the 8 pound maul have not come out the shop since these other two have showed up...I have split a pile of mixed species the size of my wife's Suzuki Reno Maybe even bigger..

Good luck and let us know how you do...


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## toddstreeservic (Nov 16, 2008)

grandpatractor said:


> This is what I use when splitting by hand. It works well!! I just splitt some 24" rounds of oak with it tonight.
> http://www.fiskars.com/webapp/wcs/s...ategoryId=10277&productId=10528&page=products



+1 :agree2:


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## J.W Younger (Nov 16, 2008)

TKO-KID said:


> yeah I am mostly splitting oak and sweetgum, and a little hickory here and there.
> 
> Yeah the one I am having the most trouble with are ones that the log turn slightly near the end. So when I set it on the log the part I am hitting is leaning slightly.
> 
> ...


I do most of my splittin with a hyd. unit but if I were you I'd noodle the gum or at least saw a groove to set the wedge in.


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## VinnieWV (Nov 16, 2008)

*splitting*

Hi, I use a steel monster maul first if I can't bust it open i break out the gernade wedge and sledge hammer. Once wood is busted i go to a smaller 6 pound maul. Most of the time the moster maul will bust it open. Great for dealing with stress.


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## TallElf (Nov 16, 2008)

TKO-KID said:


> yeah I am mostly splitting oak and sweetgum, and a little hickory here and there.
> 
> Yeah the one I am having the most trouble with are ones that the log turn slightly near the end. So when I set it on the log the part I am hitting is leaning slightly.
> 
> ...




I will tell you,that is the splitter that I have. With the speed you can swing it, (Through it, not to it) it generates plenty of velocity. The only one that I had trouble with is a wet piece of poplar. It handled a 24" piece of really dry locust with minimal effort. Just give 'er hell and they should go. 

I also agree with the guys reading the grain. I usually try to find the path of least resistance which is going from small grain to large (As opposed to large to small bottle neck) Think of your swing as a car, and the log as a traffic jam. If you notice that it is a tight grain on the bottom and a wide grain on top, flip the sucker over. 

I have put many an ax through a crotch of a tree that my ole man said NO WAY. (Then i pick up his v maul and attack the knotty oak rounds.)

Believe it or not, the only ones that reallly cause trouble between those two mauls is a piece of knotty willow. Too soft until drys for a LOOOOOOOOOOONG time with all the water


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## Octane (Nov 16, 2008)

The best way to manually split wood is to pull the lever that activates the ram on the log splitter.  
All jokes aside, I found the best way is to learn to read the grain on the wood. You want the head of the maul to line up with the grain, so that you are splitting with the grain instead of against it.
Back in the days before we got smart and bought a gas-powered log splitter, we just used a splitting maul. No wedges, no sledge hammer.
It was a great way to get a workout and to release some aggression, but no way would I want to split a truckload of wood.
If using a gas-powered logsplitter makes me a sissie, so be it.


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## Elim (Nov 16, 2008)

toddstreeservic said:


> +1 :agree2:



I second that. It is almost like cheating with a Fiskars!


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## John D (Nov 16, 2008)

I was told by a good friend of mine who is older and wiser than me that you split the wood early in the morning on days when its below freezing.The frozen wood already has pressure on it from freezing,and that it splits much easier that way.I have never tried it myself,but he has done it that way for 20yrs and he knows his stuff.


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## cityevader (Nov 16, 2008)

First, an "axe" is made for cutting, not splitting. The exception being for the smaller pieces chunked off after using a maul. Speed is often more important than force. A lightweight 6-8 pound maul or Fiskars splitter axe allows for vastly improved speed of swing with far less fatigue than an enormous Monster Maul. Remember, each swing requires lifting it over your head first!
Another tip on the somewhat bigger stuff is to aim parallel to the growth rings near the edge. The wood fibers pop apart easier there. Just work your way around it until you end up with a smaller log you can smack dead center.

If you use a wedge and sledge hammer, it is VERY important to keep the head ground smooth and rounded at the edges. If you see a well-used one with jagged and flared corners at the struck head, those become literal bullet when knocked loose. Also wedges themselves often fly off unpredictably until you have lots of practice. 

Lastly, get soccer shinguard for the chunks that fly off.


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## retired redneck (Nov 16, 2008)

John D said:


> I was told by a good friend of mine who is older and wiser than me that you split the wood early in the morning on days when its below freezing.The frozen wood already has pressure on it from freezing,and that it splits much easier that way.I have never tried it myself,but he has done it that way for 20yrs and he knows his stuff.



+ 1 when i was younger split alot of pin oak this way did it in a tea shirt in 0 weather and never got cold used 15lb monster mall.


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## southsoundtree (Nov 16, 2008)

An important point that people make is the shrapnel effect. Yes splitting wedges will mushroom. If you've used chisels, you will see that they will as well. these are designed to do this. The main part of the tool is heat treated for strength, and the end being struck by the other tool, is made to mushroom. If you hit an ax with a sledge hammer you could be in real danger. Both are hardened steel, neither made to mushroom. This type of misuse of tools can have steel shoot off worse than those made to mushroom.

What type of wood are you splitting? Green or seasoned? knotty or not?

Put up some pics of the rounds. 

Shorter lengths will be easier, so if you have a lot of trouble due to twists, knots, stump cut rounds, you will be able to split it easier if you cut them shorter. If you are ripping, you will find it easier to cut from one bark side of the round toward the other bark side of the round, as compared to cutting from one flat, crosscut surface toward the other crosscut end. You will be cutting with a standard crosscut chain (unless you buy a milling/ ripping chain). 


Not only are the right tools important, your technique as well. Some people have said that all they need is an ax, which someone pointed out is for chopping not splitting. Axes don't have the same taper as a maul, or what Fiskars may call a "splitting ax". You can split green knotless alder wood all day at 20" with an ax, but different woods, you may get nowhere fast at 12", especially knotty wood. 

The proper swing is all important. You'll probably be able to find videos that will show clearly what I'll try to explain. 
I'm right-handed, but can split both ways, though more comfortable, and accurate with my left hand at the bottom of the maul. Leather gloves allow the slide that accelerates the head of the maul. I basically have my right hand at, or near, the head, near my right shoulder. I lift the head up slightly behind my shoulder and somewhat overhead, not to the point of being straight-armed. I start by pushing my right hand forward, pulling down with my left hand. Right hand keeps pushing forward and down, sliding down the handle, meeting against my left hand upon contact with the round. 

Through this motion, I'm bending my knees and dropping my body somewhat to add speed and energy to the maul. Kinetic energy (moving energy) = 1/2 mass x velocity (squared). Increasing the speed slightly magnifies the force because its exponentially squared. 

Gloves are a good idea, but nothing compared to eye protection!

Also, having a large splitting block (round of wood) will help a lot. This will reduce the energy absorbed by the ground compressing, and protects the edge of the maul when you make it all the way through. 

The edge of the maul is not as sharp as the edge an ax, as they are two different tool with two different purposes. 

Post a pic of your equipment, too, including the maul's edge.

You can duct tape a pad around the shaft near the maul's head to protect if from missed blows to a wedge. I believe that if you maul has a flat back side, opposite the wedge side, it is just fine, and designed for, pounding wedges.

Nothing like practice to increase your strength, technique, and accuracy.


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## grandpatractor (Nov 16, 2008)

OH, and it helps to be able to hit the same line twice in a row!!!!:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


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## cord arrow (Nov 16, 2008)

> The best way to manually split wood is to pull the lever that activates the ram on the log splitter.



Rotator cuff surgery caused by years with the maul will help you see the very vivid truth in this statement...

Smack 'em while you can young fellers...better yet...don't.


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## BaldSawRunner (Nov 16, 2008)

Here is an interesting article for the OP to read: http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yourself/1980-11-01/The-Time-Honored-Art-of-Splitting-Wood.aspx


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## Mr. Obvious (Nov 16, 2008)

Best way I have found is to get yourself an illegal alien named "manual" and have him do it.


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## TKO-KID (Nov 16, 2008)

BaldSawRunner said:


> Here is an interesting article for the OP to read: http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yourself/1980-11-01/The-Time-Honored-Art-of-Splitting-Wood.aspx



good article I have read the first to pages so far.


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## Dok (Nov 16, 2008)

Looks like most everything has been covered. I will add that most hardware store mauls have a rounded edge. If you are having trouble with the maul bouncing off the rounds take a grinder to the edge and make it less blunt. This will let the maul bite into the wood rather than bounce off. You may have to start the grinding an inch from the edge. What you want is a nice taper to the edge, something in between the rounded edge you get from the factory and an ax edge. 
Dok


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## Rookie1 (Nov 16, 2008)

Best way Ive found is to borrow my BIL hyd. splitter and manually pushing and pulling handle.


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## TKO-KID (Nov 16, 2008)

I want to do it manually for the workout,

Check my avatar(that is me in the blue)


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## turnkey4099 (Nov 17, 2008)

cityevader said:


> <snip>
> 
> Lastly, get soccer shinguard for the chunks that fly off.



Amen to that! I usually wear my chaps for that purpose but today I didn't. I now have a shin half skinned from a chunk. I shopped for shin gaurds at a big box. Couldn't find any except ones for kids.

Harry K


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## greengiant (Nov 23, 2008)

I didn't see anyone mention tires (did I miss it)?? A friend of mine told me about putting a quad tire or truck tire on your splitting block. Wow!! did that speed up my splitting time. I can put rounds in the tire and swing till it's all split, and then not even bend over to the ground once to throw the split pieces on the pile. My time and back has been saved. I wish I found this site 4 years ago when I first started burning wood. Just a little thread like this for a beginner could advance your knowledge a few years worth of your own trial and error. Saw this video on an old thread, thanks for the video Dan.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCfK1WVo9LQ


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## jburlingham (Nov 24, 2008)

When it comes to splitting by hand I like an axe, and a 12 pack of Guinness. I use a 5lb single bit axe. I have an 8 lb maul, but the design of head is crap, compared to the one we had when I was growing up seems that you can get a maul with a nicely designed head any more.


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## nitro (Nov 24, 2008)

*cheap lobor*

work release program or:deadhorse: migrant workers (illeagal ones are cheaper)


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## cutter44752 (Nov 24, 2008)

chowdozer said:


> A maul and a couple of wedges is how I've done it for 30+ years. Hit it with the maul, if it doesn't split, put a wedge in the indentation and give it a few taps. Hit it with the backside of the maul.
> 
> In the beginning, until you get used to hitting a wedge with the maul, put a piece of radiator hose over the lower portion of the maul handle to keep from chewing up the handle when you miss. Eventually, you'll get to the point where you never miss.
> 
> And buy a quality maul and wedges too.



You can buy those things too they're called "Handle Savers" http://www.awesometools.com/handlesaver.asp you just boil them for a couple minutes and put some Vaseline on the inside and slide them on. They'll still twist if you really whack the handle but you can just rotate them back into place (they do change the equilibrium of the tool though).


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## cutter44752 (Nov 24, 2008)

turnkey4099 said:


> Amen to that! I usually wear my chaps for that purpose but today I didn't. I now have a shin half skinned from a chunk. I shopped for shin gaurds at a big box. Couldn't find any except ones for kids.
> 
> Harry K



Any sporting goods should have shin guards, go to "Play It Again Sam" if they have them in your area for some cheap ones. They come into different lengths, too (you'll probably want ones that *don't* have the ankle spur protectors because they won't fit in your boots properly)


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## cutter44752 (Nov 24, 2008)

Everything others here said plus I would add spend the couple extra dollars for a fiberglass vs. wood handle (lasts longer and is lighter). Also get star or grenade wedges rather than straight pie-shaped ones, which can twist more.

Also get a good chopping block, nice and flat at a comfortable height and hardwood (hardest you can get). Often people use the stump of a tree they're working on, since that's the widest part and you can't really use the bottom section for firewood easily.


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## BlueRidgeMark (Nov 24, 2008)

greengiant said:


> Saw this video on an old thread, thanks for the video Dan.
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCfK1WVo9LQ




That guy has lousy technique. He's working way too hard. Proves the tire trick works well, though.



Now, where can I get a tire to fit my 30-40" rounds?


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## BaldSawRunner (Nov 24, 2008)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> That guy has lousy technique. He's working way too hard. Proves the tire trick works well, though.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, where can I get a tire to fit my 30-40" rounds?



One of those big earth moving dump truck tires should suffice BRM:hmm3grin2orange: They can usually be found around big excavation projects like new highway construction.:monkey: Just be sure you load it with the grapple. Those things look heavy


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## KRS (Nov 24, 2008)

I just split a bunch of mesquite tonight (4"-12") with my new maul.

I grew up using a wedge and sledge.... the maul was a first for me.... that's the way to go !

KRS


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## Labman (Nov 24, 2008)

turnkey4099 said:


> You need the entire kit to split manually.
> 
> A good ax
> 
> ...



You can split almost anything by hand. I have done a lot with an ax, but mostly start with my maul. How far I can go with it depends on the quality of what I am splitting. If something doesn't yield to the maul, I move up to the wedge and sledge. After a while, you mostly know what it will take.

To split a crotch or knot, split each part. Turn the knot down, but facing you so when you split the trunk, you are splitting each limb too. 

Cute story. Years ago a storm blew down a huge pig nut tree. I attacked it with my 12'' Poulan XXV and my maul. I busted the handle of the maul and bought a fiberglass replacement. My son saw it and said ''Daddy, it is plastic.'' So I explained to him I had carefully bought a plastic one because it was so tough. Later I was having at a big crotch. My son watched for a while and finally asked ''Is that a plastic log?''. 

I have matured to where I often add crotches to the brush fire.


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## NDtreehugger (Nov 25, 2008)

Get busy is the best way.
For ash I use an Axe, elm a maul and wedge plus chainsaw to get the wedge out of the elm that wont split, oak maul 8 pounder


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## mechanickeven (Nov 29, 2008)

*my two cents*

I am 30 years old and have been swinging an 8lbs maul since i was 10. all me or my father have used is the 8lbs maul, or the 16lbs wedge maul. never seen these wedges, but am curious. i have always been able to use the tried and true mauls, but for the huge stuff i talk the uncle into bringing the log splitter with a case of michelobe to bribe him. lol


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## Dok (Nov 29, 2008)

Labman said:


> I have matured to where I often add crotches to the brush fire.


  Forty and lack of time learned me.
Dok


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## TKO-KID (Nov 29, 2008)

I Found the best way to split it today!


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 8, 2008)

anyone try this 

take the helko Vario 2000 (2300G Heavy Splitting Axe), with the 36" curved handle and CHANGE out the head (5 lbs) - with the 1500G Light Splitting Axe - head (3.3 lbs) - which has a 30" straight handle... I know the heads are diff shape..

Just wondering.. I am new to this but after reading that some, like me, being 6 ' 2" etc... and that some don't like "heavier" heads etc... just wondering if this setup would work...

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11718


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## strongback (Dec 8, 2008)

I think the short answer for a city boy who has been deprived of the benefits of firewood processing is going to be - PRACTICE. 

Many of us have been splitting and hauling firewood since we were old enough to swing a hatchet. This has given us years to develop the specific strength and technique that is necessary to process significant amounts of firewood by hand. Most notably grip strength and the body mechanics to get sufficient head speed for splitting with a maul. You can only do it by doing it.

I don't know about the others but as a beginner (8 y/o or so) I started with a sledge and wedge (NOT axe or maul and wedge) until I developed the accuracy and strength to split with a maul. I don't think it's such a bad idea for an older novice to take the same route. Your progression should be fairly quick but there is a lot to be learned by splitting with wedges that will provide a firm foundation for your switch to a maul later. 

As has been said; Wear your safety equipment! Your going to bruise a finger once in a while - it's practically unavoidable - a small measure of protection will keep you from losing eyes with the same rate of regularity.

PS- Oh yeah, I use a Fiskars "Super Splitter" too.


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## Labman (Dec 8, 2008)

Practice? I have noticed hitting the same place twice speeds the job.


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## MJR (Dec 8, 2008)

How close is that stove to the back wall?


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## ouachita (Dec 8, 2008)

find the biggest crack you can and start a straight line across the log. if it takes more than 15 hits to bust it in half set it aside and grab another. you might find it easier to split the hard ones after more practice. and dont worry you could could fill a dump truck with the wood i have give up on. some aint worth it.


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## kyle1! (Dec 8, 2008)

15 hits!!!! I'm ready to give up after 5. I have been splitting elm and hackberry recently. The cold temps make it split so much easier unless I miss and hit the center....twanggg.

Brian


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## toddstreeservic (Dec 8, 2008)

I usually only make it to 6 or 7 before reaching for the saw.


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## ouachita (Dec 8, 2008)

dont do much elm or hackberry in arkansas. mostly red or white oak 18-30+ inches. it can take 15 hits just to cross it. usually know in a few hits if itll bust or go on the bon fire. tried elm once. i suggest cut it small enough to go in the stove whole.


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## scotiadallas (Dec 8, 2008)

*Fiskars?*

I can't believe you guys have not heard of this company:

http://www.gransfors.com/htm_eng/index.html

I finally forked up the $$ last year and I CAN'T BELIEVE THE DIFFERENCE...

I own "large" splitting axe and although it's tiny (I though they sent the wrong axe when it arrived) it goes through wood like butter. HUGE WOOD. I use it every day to feed my boiler and every day is amazes me.

Really.


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 9, 2008)

note: fixed link in my last post!!

Ok Scoti - what where you using before you got the Swedish splitter?? U are right they are not cheap! I like the small hatchet splitter.. JUst may get one..

They all look interesting and it would be nice to be able to try a few of them side by side... I may end up with several of them...

Fiskars - Finsh. SUper slitter 4 lb head.

helko Vario - German. 2300G Heavy Splitting Axe 5 lb head. Nice 36" curved 
curved handle with bolt on head.. Can be change out with small
light 3.3 lb head..

Gränsfors - Swedish. Large splitting axe 2.4 kilo and the small axe 1.6 kilos..
Large at $$$ 140.00 !!

All really nice. All a little diff from the others..

As per the stove question - I have no stove "right now".. I am a camper that love fires.. I also LOVE chain saws and cutting wood.. I think it is because I don't have 2 depend on it is why I love it.. I refuse to pay for cut wood in parks are local sellers.. I get it myself. Thats why I finally got a Stihl 361 saw.. Love it.... Plus I burn tonsssssssssss of wood when out!!!

I "sledged" my first round last night.. and you all are right.. if you hit it half way right it splits the first time!! I tapped the wedge in the center with a 4 lb sledge - then hit it with a 8 lb'r and one piece went flying!!! Of course I did NOT do all this in less then one minute.. Try 10 - 15 minutes - but I was just messing around looking at the round. First tried it on the outer part only to "splinter" off a small side part. Then thought about trying it on the side of the log - yes the log laying on the side. NO go!! Then put it in the EYE of the round and POW!!! 

Now when you get the thing quarterd and u wish to half those - well thats where I guess u need good aim!


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## flashpuppy (Dec 9, 2008)

I use a Gransfors Bruks splitting maul. I have not been stopped yet. Have not taken more than four blows to entirely split a 24" round. Amazing piece of machinery.


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## scotiadallas (Dec 9, 2008)

*Split.*



diesel&coffee said:


> note: fixed link in my last post!!
> 
> Ok Scoti - what where you using before you got the Swedish splitter??
> 
> ...



I was using a variety of cheap axes with a wedge and a I have a rusty maul here too. I have used this combination for most of my life and didn't know any better. 

I paid $120 CDN for it. I am in Ottawa, Ontario and we have Lee Valley Tools (an amazing store for wood and outdoor products) head office right here. You can order these axes on-line from them as well @ www.leevalley.com

It seemed expensive to me at the time. Now after a year of use I can't believe they are ONLY $120. It really is amazing.

In my opinion, the fast and easy way to split wood is with a good axe. Two strikes MAX and it's in pieces. No messing with a wedge, setting it up, tapping it down, etc. Less hassle, same result.


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## Brush Hog (Dec 9, 2008)

TKO-KID said:


> I have been using an axe so far, But am having trouble getting through some of the wood. I have a maul but it didn't seem to do anything it just bounced of the wood when I used it.



Put some nut into it son  . I use a maul and smack it three times then I'll use the wedge. If I have a lot of wood to split I rent a splitter. For $50 I can get so much more done and I don't really need the exercise. Climbing is all I need


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## cityevader (Dec 9, 2008)

So how can "special steel" help to split any better?

If one has similarly sized/shaped/weighted "mauls" "axes" whatever...how can one perform better than another?

Note that I said similar _shaped_ implements. 

I don't see how an "X" pound this can outperform an "X" pound that if the shape and handle length are similar.


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## scotiadallas (Dec 10, 2008)

*Opinion.*

My opinion for what it's worth:

I think that this company takes the time and care to properly harden and prepare a good piece of steel. It holds an edge very well and I sharpen it once or twice a year. It gets very, very sharp.

The handle is also made well. The head has not come loose (this is with chopping EVERYDAY all winter for a whole season) and it still feels as solid as the day I bought it. For comparison, I bought a Home Depot "indestructible" chopping axe and the head came loose and the handle split in less than a week. Also, splitting wood with that thing was a chore. I brought it back and I've already destroyed the second one...

The shape of this axe is also very different. The wedge shape is at a very sharp angle, a sharper angle than at first glance would seem effective. The distance between the edge and the completion of the angle is also very short. I'm not sure how they eventually arrived at this angle/wedge length but without a doubt, it's more effective that anything I've ever used. I was skeptical at first but every day it doesn't cease to amaze me. This tool constantly exceeds my expectations. 

Everyone has a few tools that constantly impress but that experience is the exception not the norm - I can recommend this axe - it will not disappoint.

D


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## cityevader (Dec 10, 2008)

I'm thinking we need an "MTV Deathmatch"-style head to head with the Gransfors and Fiskars.... I've not used either one, and am starting to think my 3/4" pipe welded to box-store-maul head is ineffective based on A.S. 

I work with tools for 3/4 of my waking hours, and truly appreciate the subtle nuances that make a great tool great.

I also can recognize the difference between wonderful tool for minimal dollars versus one with another notch up in quality, but multiple notches in price.

Anybody use both who can directly compare?

DEATH MATCH!!!!


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## scotiadallas (Dec 11, 2008)

*Fiskar*

I've seen the Fiskar model at Home Depot. The main reason I lack respect for the Fiskar is only because of what happened with my last Home Depot purchase (see above). I figured if I spent more money on a Fiskars and it didn't do the job properly, than Home Depot would have stung me twice - which would be embarrassing.

People on AS have commented favorably about the Fiskars axe so maybe it does work well? 

I would love to hear from someone who has both? 

If anyone doesn't use their Fiskar and wants to mail it to me for a head to head testing against my current Swedish heavyweight champ I would be please to report my findings with lots of pics...


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## MJR (Dec 11, 2008)

Black power and cannon fuse is the most fun.


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## streeter (Dec 11, 2008)

Ductape said:


> My suggestion is to do what my father did................................. have kids!




That is what kids are for:greenchainsaw:


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## Bearcreek (Dec 12, 2008)

Ive seen people spend ridiculous amounts of time on one piece of knotty wood. They could just about have went out and collected pop cans, sold the scrap and bought five chunks of firewood in the time it took them to split the friekin, full of knots log. If a chunk is takin too long to split throw it out and go to the next one. IMO its rarely worth the time to mess around cuttin it smaller with a chainsaw.


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## ouachita (Dec 12, 2008)

agreed. 15 hits 20-30 seconds. if it aint split im done


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