# Stihl 021 teardown, with pics, and questions...



## wrooster (Apr 26, 2009)

So I have this old (12-15 yrs) 021 that has served as an occasional firewood saw -- the trouble started when I loaned it out. Fast forward 2 years, I have the saw back and, I quote, "it doesn't start". I love my in-laws, I really do. 

In the tank was ancient 50:1 mix, and the bar and chain, although turned over once in a while, are both in bad shape. The amount of caked-on dirt and grime was interesting.

I have decided to make a small project out of this saw and put it back in running order. 

So far I have found a lot of wear and tear; apparently the reason it does not start is either the cracks in the fuel line and/or the cracks in the impulse line. 

I am going to purchase the following at the parts counter:
- fuel filter
- fuel line
- impulse line
- Walbro carb rebuild kit (Ebay?)
- spark plug
- sprocket (OEM)
- bar/chain combo (Bailey's inexpensive Arborist setup)

The question now is "how far do I go in?" 

I compression-tested it (obviously cold) and it came up to 125psi before the flywheel un-keyed itself. (Aside, I tried gently for 5 minutes to get the flywheel off without a puller, but after about 8-10 yanks on the starter cable it came right off). I will put the flywheel back in place with the nut and see if a little more compression is there. 

Through the exhaust and inlet ports there is no visible scuffing or damage to the piston.

Based on the above, I'm inclined not to take the jug off and go all the way down to the guts. 

Finally, what's the best way to clean the motor assembly itself of all of the accumulated grease, dirt, grime, and other debris? 

Ideas? Opinions? Suggestions?

Thanks,
Jim / Wrooster


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## Rookie1 (Apr 26, 2009)

Wow! Where to begin. Get the flywheel back on and verify compression. If its that low I think thats why it wont start. Sprocket looks wasted. Crud is no biggie.You may want to just ebay the parts and make some money with it. Im sure you dont want to hear that but with low compression its going to take alot more time.


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## wrooster (Apr 26, 2009)

Rookie1 said:


> but with low compression



Do you/anyone know what a 021 should push in PSI? I was thinking 140-ish?

Regards,
Jim / Wrooster


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## wrooster (Apr 26, 2009)

1) I re-ran the compression test and it gives 135PSI.

2) Question regarding the chain sprocket -- the 021 OEM setup is a Picco type, and the OEM sprocket says "1123/05 Picco z6" on it. From Bailey's website, it appears that I could get a setup (sprocket/bar/chain) to match the OEM setup Picco 0.375" x 0.050", OR i could get a 0.325" x 0.063". I'm inclined to stay with the narrower kerf on an 021, and match the OEM setup. Thoughts?

Thanks
Jim / Wrooster


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## HimWill (Apr 26, 2009)

When you dumped the old gas ,did you start it up with fresh gas?If so,how was it running?


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## ironman_gq (Apr 26, 2009)

I would at a minimum put new rings on it. I would think it would be closer to 150/160psi. Use Brakleen and an air compressor to remove the crud, replace the lines and make sure the oiler works. It shouldnt be too expensive but it will take time and patience


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## wrooster (Apr 26, 2009)

HimWill said:


> When you dumped the old gas ,did you start it up with fresh gas?



No. When I did a quick inspection and saw the cracks in the fuel line I started in on disassembly.


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## wrooster (Apr 26, 2009)

ironman_gq said:


> I would at a minimum put new rings on it.



http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=PKS%20021

The whole piston/ring kit is $29. If I have it torn down to the guts and the cylinder walls look OK, I probably should go the whole way -- what do you think?


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## HimWill (Apr 26, 2009)

Does this engine have the un-caged lower rod bearings?If so,be aware that they are prone to "skedaddle" when you move the rod too far left or right on the crank.Keep the rod centered and wrap something around each side to limit side to side movement.I use a strip of an old T-shirt wrapped and tied to keep the rod centered.
I have used the Baileys piston and ring combo that you mentioned,no problems.Ring installation is easy,no compressor is required because the cylinder has a tapered lead in.
For cleanup,remove the coil and use Lake's formula of 25% Purple cleaner sprayed on,let sit for a while and then hose it off with a garden hose.Repeat as needed until clean.Let it air dry,on blow dry with compressed air if available.


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## wrooster (Apr 26, 2009)

and I still need the impulse line from the dealer (can't find one on Bailey's website)...






Possibly: :crazy1:

Jim / Wrooster


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## HimWill (Apr 26, 2009)

Just about identical to what I ordered,14" bar and chain on this one.Cutting little devil now.I also ordered a set of rings as well as the piston/ring combne of them(bought 3 in a box and made 2 ) had a good piston,just needed rings.The other needed piston and rings,crank bearings and seals due to clutch-side bearing spacer coming apart and working its way out through the engine.If the impulse line looks good,it probably doesn't need replacing yet.
Neither carb needed a rebuild,just lucky I guess,but I would get it back together and running before I worried about the carb


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## wrooster (Apr 27, 2009)

HimWill said:


> Just about identical to what I ordered,14" bar and chain on this one.



Actually I don't know how I ended up with the 16" setup in the cart, I thought I put the 14" in there. Tonight when I finalize the order I'll make the decision one way or the other. IMHO swinging a 16" bar/chain is a lot for an 021.



HimWill said:


> If the impulse line looks good,it probably doesn't need replacing yet.



The impulse line definitely has some cracks in it.



HimWill said:


> Neither carb needed a rebuild,just lucky I guess,but I would get it back together and running before I worried about the carb



That's a good idea. On the other hand the carb has sat for at least a year and change with old gas in it. I probably need to at least spray down the internals with carb cleaner.

Thanks for your info above.

Jim / Wrooster


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## Fish (Apr 27, 2009)

So you need an impulse line, sprocket, and flywheel...

Would you like fries with that?


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## Fish (Apr 27, 2009)

Well 2 out of 3........


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## wrooster (Apr 27, 2009)

Fish said:


> So you need an impulse line, sprocket, and flywheel...



Flywheel is OK, sprocket is hosed bad (see pic above), but yes I need a new impulse line.

Jim / Wrooster


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## Fish (Apr 27, 2009)

How about a fuel line, carb? I only have the 6 toothed sprocket in Picco 3/8 l.p.


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## wrooster (Apr 27, 2009)

Fish said:


> How about a fuel line, carb? I only have the 6 toothed sprocket in Picco 3/8 l.p.



I haven't put an order in anyplace yet, and I'm still looking for new seals. The Bailey's list I posted previously is still in "DRAFT" form -- I want to do a little more detective work this evening to see if there is anything else I need before placing an order.

PS
I still have two pretty good condition OEM chains for this saw so I am reluctant to change the drive setup. I don't know if the 6T Picco sprocket is available in an equivalent rim drive. Ideas?

Thanks
Jim / Wrooster


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## wrooster (Apr 27, 2009)

Can anyone think of any 021/023/025 common wear or breakage items that I should look at? I need to get an order in an don't want to have to do it again in 72 hours...

Thanks
Jim / Wrooster


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## Rookie1 (Apr 27, 2009)

Ive had a 021 for a while and just put an 023L together. I think impulse and fuel line and maybe one screw carb is a bit of a drag. They arent pro saws but I think for homeowner not loaning it out it will do well with what your doing.


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## windthrown (Apr 27, 2009)

Your compression tester has a LONG auto hose on it, and you are probably going to read low using that (unless you have a release valve down by the threaded end of the tester). There have been a lot of chat about that on several threads on AS over the years. Your engine may be better than you think. 

May want new crank seals while you are in there. Sprocket is beyond shot. Flywheel with no key is shot (or re-key, or get one on Ebay; I just sold a 1123 flywheel there for $8). Definately get the picco 3/8 low profile B&C. .325 is too fat a kerf and a 210 will not drive that. I run picco on my new 250/025 hybrid (which I tore down and put a new tank on just yesterday). I have .325 bars and chains that I never use on it. Overall with shipping, I would say that $100+ is a lot to put into a 210. 

Oh, to answer your original question, you are already all the way into that thing. To get the flywheel off a 1123 saw, I use a small puller. The way I do it is loosen the engine and that gives you more room to get behind the flywheel with a puller.


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## windthrown (Apr 27, 2009)

Rookie1 said:


> Ive had a 021 for a while and just put an 023L together. I think impulse and fuel line and maybe one screw carb is a bit of a drag. They arent pro saws but I think for homeowner not loaning it out it will do well with what your doing.



You have an L model 023? The Euro model one with the plugged up muffler so it runs super quiet (and gutless?). I have seen some odd-ball 1123 saws out there. My 025/250 hybrid is yet another one. 

I had a 210 once, and I left it with my ex when I moved out. I actually super-glued a broken flywheel fin on that thing, and it is still holding up! The impulse line was key in getting that thing to run right.


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## Rookie1 (Apr 28, 2009)

Yes I do. I bought it from Andre,he named it Stealth Saw. I like my 021 and use it to cut alot of pallets,shipping crates and trees that arent too large. I feel the 023L is on par with it and like running it cause it quieter.I feel it doesnt draw as much attention. Here is the thread I did on the buildup. http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=82076&highlight=023l


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## wrooster (Apr 28, 2009)

windthrown said:


> Your compression tester has a LONG auto hose on it, and you are probably going to read low using that (unless you have a release valve down by the threaded end of the tester). There have been a lot of chat about that on several threads on AS over the years. Your engine may be better than you think.



The compression tester shown in my photos has a schrader valve located right at the spark plug threads. So it *should* be giving me a good reading.



windthrown said:


> May want new crank seals while you are in there.



Already looking into those. The generic equivalent ones are seemingly inexpensive online, but for the shipping costs!



windthrown said:


> Sprocket is beyond shot.



Yes, that is an understatement. 



windthrown said:


> Flywheel with no key is shot



The flywheel (and key) are actually in pretty good shape.



windthrown said:


> Definately get the picco 3/8 low profile B&C. .325 is too fat a kerf and a 210 will not drive that.



My thinking as well. I have to go out to the garage and get the B&C, I really don't recall if it was a 14" or 16". I think a 16" B&C is a lot to spin for a 021, of course if you are only cutting softwoods or trimming it may not be a problem and the greater length provides a bit more reach.



windthrown said:


> Overall with shipping, I would say that $100+ is a lot to put into a 210.



$100 was my mental limit. I think I could less the outlay of coin a bit by getting just the rings vs the piston-N-rings kit, but again I'm all the way in there already.

Thanks for the input,
Jim / Wrooster


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## ironman_gq (Apr 28, 2009)

if the piston isnt scored and the skirts havent started to collapse then a ring set should be just fine. Measure the piston at the skirt to see if they have started to squeeze in more than a couple thousandth's of an inch, any more and its shot otherwise a new piston is just wasted money.


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## Dan_IN_MN (Apr 28, 2009)

Just to be sure, you could check your compression tester on another running saw. When you pulled the starter rope, did it pull over easier than before? Is your clutch bearing in need of replacement? I see you have one on your pre-order.


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## windthrown (Apr 28, 2009)

wrooster said:


> $100 was my mental limit. I think I could less the outlay of coin a bit by getting just the rings vs the piston-N-rings kit, but again I'm all the way in there already.
> 
> Thanks for the input,
> Jim / Wrooster



No problem. Another idea is to off the 210 parts on Ebay for $100+, and buy that 250 for sale on the trading post here on AS for $175. You would get a 250 in the deal for about the price of fixing the 210. 

The rim thing is weird. I got a picco rim for my 250 from a Stihl shop, but the Oregon drum has the smaller splines than the rim has. There are 2 sizes of rim drives on those. The rim was set up for the .325 on the 250 when I bought it. I flipped it to picco, after getting the saw pinched in a lot of cuts using .325. The cuts are faster with the narrow kerf. I tried to find NK .325 bars and chains for it about a year ago, but they do not exist. You can put a 6 or 7 pin/sprocket rim on a 250, but on the 210 stick with 6 pin. B****y's does not have a 6 pin rim in picco, and the 7 pin ones cost a forking fortune! ($13???). I know what you mean about shipping from B****y's too. 'Cept the Stihl dealers here want extra for parts that are ordered now... sux sux sux.


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## wrooster (Apr 28, 2009)

Bottom end pics, piston looks in good shape as does the cylinder wall... although I found it next to impossible to take a good picture of the latter.

ps:
Thanks you AS guys for mentioning that the roller bearings at the connecting rod big end are not captive! Now I just need to figure out a clever way of keeping the rod centered on the journal so I can get the old rings off and the new ones on.

Jim / Wrooster


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## wrooster (Apr 28, 2009)

ps:


wrooster said:


> The compression tester shown in my photos has a schrader valve located right at the spark plug threads.


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## windthrown (Apr 29, 2009)

Looking good. Actually, that piston and rings look too good to be bad. ??? Your compression tester looks like the right one to have though. 

I know what you mean about pix of the jug. Hard to even eyeball it for scoring. You need a ring flash for that kind of photography. That also looks too good to be bad though??? 

Contrast your piston to one I pulled from a 250 a few weeks ago that I bought for parts. Seriously scored, the rings were scored, and the jug was grooved. Worst I have seen in a saw. I sold the rod and crank and kept the jug as a momento. That saw still started... ran like :censored: though. 

All you need are rings. Also buff off the carbon on the piston crown. Careful putting the rings on. They are brittle. I never had problems with the bearings falling out. Maybe wrap it with aluminum wire?


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## wrooster (Apr 29, 2009)

Hang with me here, a couple of more questions:

1) how much side-to-side (angular) play should the connecting rod have with respect to the roller bearings?

2) based on what you see above, should i touch the main bearings and/or seals? rotation is smooth, no sign of race galling or ball damage.

3) is the ignition coil assembly waterproof? i would like to take the bottom pan "carcass" out back and use some engine cleaner and/or simple green and give it a good bath. do i need to take the ignition coil assy off first? 

4) i *don't* need a piston ring compressor for this type motor, correct? (i.e. there is sufficient taper at the jug)

5) what is the best way to ensure the chain oil pump and the chain oil passageways are clear of debris?

6) bottom end reassembly: scrape the sealant off, clean with mineral spirits, apply Dirko or Yamabond, and close up the clamshell? 

thanks for all your help!

Jim / Wrooster


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## wrooster (Apr 29, 2009)

oh and one more thing:

NO ONE HAS SUGGESTED PORTING IT YET !?!?!??!?!

you guys are slowing down... :wave:

Jim / Wrooster


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## Sawdustmaker (Apr 29, 2009)

haven't you read that brad said he would never port another clamshell....

these guys always do whatever he says...

.... just kidding..... ROTFLMAO!!


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## Rookie1 (Apr 29, 2009)

Ive thought about getting a 025 or 250 and messing with the ports. You cant raise compression easily or change timing. But you could widen the exhaust port. I dont think youll hear much from the regulars on porting this style engine.


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## HimWill (Apr 29, 2009)

Most of your questions were answered in post #9.


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## HimWill (Apr 29, 2009)

Here are some pics of an 021 that had a crank bearing spacer fail.The pitting on top of the piston is where it ate the spacer and spit it out.Also,here is how the T-shirt strip works to keep the connecting rod centered.


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## wrooster (Apr 29, 2009)

HimWill said:


> Most of your questions were answered in post #9.



You are correct, my bad -- it was late and I was typing as things came to mind.

Jim / Wrooster


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## HimWill (Apr 29, 2009)

Your parts look really good,piston rings and seals should do it.This one of mine however needed the works,piston,rings,bearings and seals.


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## wrooster (Apr 29, 2009)

HimWill said:


> Your parts look really good,piston rings and seals should do it.



That is what I am thinking as well.

I'l get an order in this evening via a couple of places, and while I'm awaiting delivery of the bits and pieces I will get the chassis grunge all cleaned up.

Last question: should I touch the cylinder wall? There is no scoring, no ring lip, and nothing that raises my eyebrow. (note: I do not have a ball hone)

Jim / Wrooster


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## HimWill (Apr 29, 2009)

Brake cleaner does a fair job of removing the carbon,as does kerosene or diesel,whatever's handy.Wash out the case per Lakes method: 25% purple cleaner sprayed on,let soak a bit and hose it off.Repeat till clean.Air dry or blow dry.Don't let those roller bearings get loose(there are 14 of them).Make sure the impulse is clear,on these with the failed spacer,one of them was clogged with metal dust.You should not have that problem,but check it anyway.I wouldn't bother the cylinder unless you can feel something rough,I doubt there's anything that needs attention.
By case,I meant all the plastic parts,not the cylinder.


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## HimWill (Apr 29, 2009)

Not trying to hijack the thread,but here is a pic of both styles of crankshafts used in the 021's.The one on the left is the new style(carried on in the 210's I think).Two counterweights,dog-bone connecting rod(caged rollers on both ends,looks the same coming or going) and pressed together.The connecting rod and crank are one unit,you could replace the wrist pin bearing but that's all.The older style on the right,has a forged crank,single counterweight,uncaged rod bearings and is fully servicable.
I like the old style,but that's just me.





Both of these engines had the clutch-side bearing spacer fail,ruining the piston.Is this a common failure for this series?


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## wrooster (Apr 29, 2009)

HimWill said:


> Don't let those roller bearings get loose(there are 14 of them).



Ahhh yes, loose roller bearings. I have plenty o' experience... :bang:

Below is a rear suspension component from a off-road motorcycle. Sticky grease, lots of time, and a helping of patience are all needed to reassemble. 

Jim / Wrooster


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## HimWill (Apr 29, 2009)

Looks like you've got half of them done,carry on.


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## windthrown (Apr 29, 2009)

wrooster said:


> oh and one more thing:
> 
> NO ONE HAS SUGGESTED PORTING IT YET !?!?!??!?!
> 
> ...



Porting a 210??? 

May as well just off this one as parts on Ebay and buy that 250.

Really, how are you gonna lower the squish on a clamshell cased engine, and keep the seal arches so they work ??? :monkey:


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## windthrown (Apr 29, 2009)

Remove the 2 torx bolts and pull your coil out of your 210 case before you clean it. No need to leave it in there for cleaning. Simple to remove. They are spendy; just paper towel them off. After you put the flywheel/motor back in, adjust the coil to be as close to the flywheel as possible for good spark. 

You can probably get by leaving the seals as they are. They look OK. But if they fail, it means going back in there again.

You can hone (lightly!!!!) the jug, but not required. I would just cross hatch it to seat the new rings.


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## wrooster (Apr 29, 2009)

Final open questions:



wrooster said:


> 1) how much side-to-side (angular) play should the connecting rod have with respect to the roller bearings?...
> 
> 5) what is the best way to ensure the chain oil pump and the chain oil passageways are clear of debris?
> 
> 6) bottom end reassembly: scrape the old sealant off, clean with mineral spirits, apply Dirko or Yamabond, and close up the clamshell?



Also, should I lube the rings and bottom end bearings/journals with Stihl 2 stroke oil during reassembly? 

Jim / Wrooster


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## ironman_gq (Apr 29, 2009)

on these types of ignition systems i like to set the coil using a couple sheets of paper between the coil and the flywheel magnet. 1 sheet= ~.004"


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## wrooster (Apr 29, 2009)

ironman_gq said:


> on these types of ignition systems i like to set the coil using a couple sheets of paper between the coil and the flywheel magnet. 1 sheet= ~.004"



Gotcha, thanks.

I cleaned the form-a-gasket from the bottom of the jug. Now then, best way to get the carbon out of the top of the jug?

And on another note, is the tiny depression in the OEM piston crown standard issue? It's about 0.010" or thereabouts deep.

Click for the BIG view:
http://losdos.dyndns.org:8080/public/coltsneck/stihl-021/DSCN4386.JPG

BTW the manufacturing date code is plainly visible above. 

ps: 
HimWill, thanks for the idea to keep the crank rollers in check. 

Jim / Wrooster


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## ironman_gq (Apr 29, 2009)

looks like someone put in a spark plug that was too long or used a piston stop. Has this saw been apart at the dealer before?


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## windthrown (Apr 29, 2009)

wrooster said:


> I cleaned the form-a-gasket from the bottom of the jug. Now then, best way to get the carbon out of the top of the jug?
> 
> And on another note, is the tiny depression in the OEM piston crown standard issue? It's about 0.010" or thereabouts deep.



Piston depression looks like the dimple from a piston stop used on it at one time. I use rope, rag or even a paper towel as a piston stop. I use a brass wire wheel on a dremel tool to clean up the combustion chamber.


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## wrooster (Apr 30, 2009)

ironman_gq said:


> looks like someone put in a spark plug that was too long or used a piston stop. Has this saw been apart at the dealer before?



Not been to the dealer, and I use a piece of nylon rope for a piston stop. Hmmm...

Jim / Wrooster


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## ironman_gq (Apr 30, 2009)

someone had some work done to the saw. Maybe thats one of the reasons it took so long for you to get it back


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## wrooster (May 1, 2009)

OK, after a lot of cleanup and inspection here's what I need to get this little guy running again:

-- Fuel line
-- Fuel filter
-- Impulse line
-- Carb kit
-- Drive sprocket
-- Drive sprocket bearing
-- Spark plug
-- Piston rings
-- Crank seals
-- B&C combo


Jim / Wrooster


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## windthrown (May 1, 2009)

Sounds good. Maybe get a pair of falling wedges while you are ordering from Bailey's. And maybe some new starter rope. And spare bar nuts. Stupid stuff that can be a show-stopper out there cutting.


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## Fish (May 1, 2009)

wrooster said:


> OK, after a lot of cleanup and inspection here's what I need to get this little guy running again:
> 
> -- Fuel line
> -- Fuel filter
> ...



If so, buy a new saw, you are talking 130$ plus in parts, and you will have a rebuilt "old" saw....

It is a shame you tore it down this far, when a fuel ine, impulse line, and a sprocket would have sufficed


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## Rookie1 (May 1, 2009)

Fish said:


> If so, buy a new saw, you are talking 130$ plus in parts, and you will have a rebuilt "old" saw....
> 
> It is a shame you tore it down this far, when a fuel ine, impulse line, and a sprocket would have sufficed





Rookie1 said:


> Wow! Where to begin. Get the flywheel back on and verify compression. If its that low I think thats why it wont start. Sprocket looks wasted. Crud is no biggie.You may want to just ebay the parts and make some money with it. Im sure you dont want to hear that but with low compression its going to take alot more time.



Thats what I was thinking.


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## wrooster (May 1, 2009)

Fish said:


> you are talking 130$ plus in parts



Are you guys using a different Internet than me?

Jim / Wrooster


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## Fish (May 1, 2009)

add shipping, another ring and find some seals, and you will be getting there


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## Fish (May 1, 2009)

19.95 for a bar and chain????? You want to buy that?

Impulse line a few more.


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## Fish (May 1, 2009)

At least if the carb kit is Walbro, you won't be buying all junk.


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## wrooster (May 1, 2009)

OK now, if the ball busting is over and done with... 

The piston rings come qty 2 to a kit. So no extra there.

The seals, cheap ones at least, are eluding me right now. Ordinarily they are a couple of bucks at NAPA, but they are
priced higher now ($6.99 ea) for whatever reason.

The impulse line I may have to buy from the dealer near where I work, since I can't seem to find one online.

The carb kit is OEM Walbro.

The ArborMax B&C setup didn't come to me out of thin air; a quick search will turn up a number of satisfied AS'ers. It's an occasional use firewood saw; I'm not staring in a TV show with it.

Shipping for this lot to my zip code is $9.82.

I'm believe still under my previously discussed $100 allotted budget. So... 

Or give me an idea of something else to do. I haven't ordered anything yet, I wanted to get done with cleaning it up so I didn't have to place a 2nd order for something small.

Jim / Wrooster


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## Rookie1 (May 1, 2009)

Im not ball busting just showing the facts. Here is a saw near me for sale. I know its not near you but you get the idea.http://cleveland.craigslist.org/grd/1144972498.html


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## Fish (May 1, 2009)

wrooster said:


> OK now, if the ball busting is over and done with...
> 
> The piston rings come qty 2 to a kit. So no extra there.
> 
> ...




Not yet, if you have to buy the seals from Stihl, $16.95 each....

Impulse line, only $4.00

Not busting them too bad, just trying to give a reality check... You should
reuse most of your old stuff.....


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## wrooster (May 1, 2009)

Fish said:


> Not busting them too bad, just trying to give a reality check...



Understood. You guys have been most helpful.

Jim / Wrooster


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## barneyrb (May 1, 2009)

wrooster said:


> Understood. You guys have been most helpful.
> 
> Jim / Wrooster



Wrooster, as you can tell....this ain't fish's first rodeo, he has always appeared to have been straight up with his advice and knows his stuff too.


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## windthrown (May 1, 2009)

barneyrb said:


> Wrooster, as you can tell....this ain't fish's first rodeo, he has always appeared to have been straight up with his advice and knows his stuff too.



Well, when he is sober anyway... :spam:


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## Fish (May 1, 2009)

Sober???? Rodeo?????

Leave my current wife outta this!!!!


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## HimWill (May 13, 2009)

Have you made any progress on this project?
I meant to tell you earlier, when you install the clutch-side seal take some dental floss,kite string or similar and wrap and fill the clip groove until it's flush with the shaft.Then slide the seal passed it.The groove has sharp edges that catch the seal and can cut or abrade or otherwise rough it up if you try to fight it across without filling it temporarily.


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## wrooster (May 13, 2009)

HimWill said:


> Have you made any progress on this project?



Thanks for asking. I have most everything cleaned up, I have all of the parts needed except one (which is coming tomorrow, hopefully), and reassembly will commence shortly.



HimWill said:


> <...>when you install the clutch-side seal take some dental floss,kite string or similar and wrap and fill the clip groove until it's flush with the shaft.



Thanks for the tip.

Jim / Wrooster


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## HimWill (May 13, 2009)

Everything's looking good,you might want to look into a new clutch cover.Yours is the older style,solid plastic,that tend to develop a permanent "squish" over time.The later ones have metal inserts in the bar holes to keep them from mashing out of shape.Yours looks alright now,just something you might want to upgrade in the future.


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