# Echo CS-360T



## Cliff R (Mar 3, 2008)

More testing with the CS-360T, in case anyone is interested?

It seems like these saws are not all that popular here? However, I'll post the information anyone, in case it may be able to help someone?

Anyhow, we obtained a CS-360T for testing, as they are supposed to be Echo's answer to the Husky 338XPT and Stihl MS200T. 

Initially, I was not overly impressed anyplace this saw. The power level was nowhere near what I was expecting, anyplace. It ran easily to past 14,000rpm's, but didn't really have a "sweet spot" anywhere in the rpm range under load. It just acted "flat" across the speed/load range. I am certain that it would have ROASTED the piston in a couple tankfuls of fuel if the limiter caps were not removed to give it some fuel.

We adjusted the carb to the most ideal settings and have ran it now for apprx a month, and it was simply OK, nothing really exciting about it. 

Over the weekend I purchased a "real" chain for it (it came with one of those low profile chains with the guards between each cutter), and modified the muffler by removing the screen and the restrictive plate over it.

I did NOT open up the hole in the muffler.

Low and behold the saw immediately came to life, and flat RIPS! 

It has more power at every rpm, at cuts at least 30 percent better than before the modifications. I'm certain at this point that as delivered, these saws would have been so unimpressive that most users would have wished they would have upgraded to the Husky or Stihl.

Right now, it cuts pretty much on par with either one of the lengendary saws. We'll keep running the crap out of it, and see if it holds up? 

As good as we have made it work, I still wouldn't recomend getting one unless you are familiar with carburetor adjustments, and don't mind working on the muffler. I have no doubt that anyone who bought/used one of these saws would have been disappointed with it, and probably seized up the piston in short order, if left in "stock" form.....Cliff


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## Just Mow (Mar 3, 2008)

Ran one ONCE, then handed it back to the Echo rep and laughed.


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## NPKenny (Mar 3, 2008)

Cliff R, for a guy like me, that is valuable information. Thanks for sharing. I don't climb for much other than personal or neighborly use. As much as I covet the 200t, something a little bit more affordable better suits my needs.

I feel the more information I can gather on these little saws, the better informed I will be when the time comes to purchase. I even have an echo dealer close to where I cut most.


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## Fish (Mar 3, 2008)

Yes, having worked for Stihl, Husqvarna, and Echo dealers a lot, many times all in the same year, what is with that???? My attitude???? Nahhhh....

Anyway, Echo in the last 10 or more years, seems focused more on meeting
the EPA regs, and not as much on performance, but the quality is just as
high, so with some savvy tinkering, they are quite a good buy.

As far as the "High" performance stuff that many on here delve into,
I have no knowledge, and neither does many here. I focus or repair
t make the unit run like new, and my customer base is the homeownr/farmer,
and I do not seek out the pros really, and the modifying crowd, definitely
not.

But you are right, Echo gets a bad time here usually, as well as Shindaiwa.


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## mountainlake (Mar 3, 2008)

Cliff Now it's time to open up the muffler on yout 670 and sneak a carb from a 8000 on it. Steve


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## Cliff R (Mar 3, 2008)

Steve, sounds like a plan. The CS-670 does pretty good, but every time I think it's a fast cutting saw, I grab the 268XPS, now that's one fast cutting saw, the CS-670 is a toy in comparison.

I got a call today to cut up and haul a good sized maple. It was in town, spent it's life growing up around power lines in someones front yard, so it was one knotty/twisted MESS. I cut most of it up with the 55, then the really large stuff with the 268XP.

On purpose I saved everything 12" or smaller for the CS-360T. To be perfectly honest folks, that little saw flat ars ROCKS! It has a whole new character now that we've installed a real chain, opened up the muffler and gave it some fuel. 

Now that we've got it running like a real saw, we'll see how it holds up?

I did have a nice chat with a Depot level Echo rep. He said that the EPA is ALL over them. He claimed that is the reason for the restrictive exhaust, some sort of catalyst stuff inside there. I guess plugging up the flow some increases heat and time to make the gasses look better for emission standards? He didn't say that it was robbing the saw of at least 30 percent of it's potential! Maybe they aren't allowed to tell us that?

Anyhow, glad the info could help someone, about all left to report is if/when the engine takes a "dump"?.......stay tuned.....Cliff


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## pgg (Mar 3, 2008)

Cliff, you realize your 5 year warranty is now null and void?  Glad you like the extra 'zip' but, depending on hours run per day, that echo death rattle is gonna come before long...


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## Cliff R (Mar 4, 2008)

"that echo death rattle is gonna come before long."

I keep hearing that. We haven't managed to grenade any of the Echo's in the line-up as of yet. One of the 510's we use has a LOT of hours on it. Tomorrow I'm going to do a muffler mod to it as well, to see if there is some more power lurking in there someplace?

I trend that I have seen with ALL of the Echo's that we own, is that they are set up extremely LEAN from the factory, and the limiters do not allow enough "range" to get sufficient fuel to the engine(s). 

The very first thing I do is remove the caps BEFORE operating them, and make my own settings. I have no doubt I would have ROASTED every single one of them if we hadn't given them some additional fuel across the entire load/speed range......FWIW.....Cliff


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## TimberMcPherson (Mar 4, 2008)

Right its off with the screen on my 350T, thanks for the tip


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## Cliff R (Mar 4, 2008)

Just a note, we removed the screen and the gasket and metal spacer plate with the small triangular hole in it. I only left the outer peice in place, which directs the exhaust gases down and away from the saw. 

I also tapped the holes for #8-32 threads, and installed slotted drive screws instead of the factory phillips headed metric screws, one of which was somewhat difficult to remove......Cliff


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## pgg (Mar 4, 2008)

Yeah the normal echos don't grenade coz they don't have enough power to blow their engines, the 360's are different, right up there with 1.5KW stock compared to the 338 & 200's 1.7 - 1.8KW stock, will be interesting to see in a few weeks Cliff, cheers.


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## Cliff R (Mar 4, 2008)

Thanks for the info, I didn't know what the power rating was? I do know that it's on par with any 338 or 200T we've used after the minor modifications.

If it goes BOOM you guys will be the first to know!.....Cliff


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## mountainlake (Mar 4, 2008)

Most likely grenadeing cuz they were too lean from the factory. Seems like mine like to be adjusted a little rich to cut the best. Steve


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## Cliff R (Mar 4, 2008)

Steve, we consider removing the limiter caps MANDITORY on Echo saws. Without exception, every single one we have had in here did not have enough "range" in the mixture screws to lean them out enough to prevent engine damage. 

It appears that Echo is very committed to please the EPA at all costs, and probably suffers dearly for it in catastropic engine failures under warrantee?....IMHO....Cliff


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## mountainlake (Mar 4, 2008)

Cliff One of my 510 saws still has the caps, the factory must have goofed on that one. My other 510 would just die when you pulled the trigger, caps are gone. My 440 and my brothers caps are gone. Steve


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## Tree DR (Nov 17, 2009)

*Does it live on?*

Well is it still alive or gone?


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## Cliff R (Nov 18, 2009)

Not only does it still live, it's running better than ever. I opened up the exit hole in the muffler slightly. Got a bit louder, and really responded well to that mod. 

No matter how hard I try, I just can't kill this little saw with correct carb settings. I use it quite a bit, so if we were going to smoke the P/C due to some lack of quality in the parts, it would have happened by now.

Sorry to disappoint some of the "death rattle" advocates, but rest assured, if and when it gives up, you'll be the first to know about it......Cliff


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## Tree DR (Nov 18, 2009)

Cliff R said:


> Not only does it still live, it's running better than ever. I opened up the exit hole in the muffler slightly. Got a bit louder, and really responded well to that mod.
> 
> No matter how hard I try, I just can't kill this little saw with correct carb settings. I use it quite a bit, so if we were going to smoke the P/C due to some lack of quality in the parts, it would have happened by now.
> 
> Sorry to disappoint some of the "death rattle" advocates, but rest assured, if and when it gives up, you'll be the first to know about it......Cliff



Good to hear it's still alive. I've wondered about the death rattle?


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## Cliff R (Nov 18, 2009)

I'm convinced at this point that the rev-limiter has caused the demise of most of these saws we read about with problems. With the muffler opened up some and the carb set correctly, it's doing a great job for us, and goes on just about every outing, as we cut a lot of tops left over from logging operations.....Cliff


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## mikelleen (Jan 8, 2012)

I am looking at buying one of these saws, it's about $200 cheaper than the Stihl, which I would like, but as a residential owner it doesn't make sense.

How do I remove the "caps" frankly I do not know whay you are talking about with regards to limiting caps, but if someone could point me in the right direction I can figure it out.

I'll have to see if I can scare up a muffler for modification as well. I figure I'll do the cap mod and the muffler mod and leave it at that. Should be satisfactory for my use.

Thanks for any help.


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## old hb (Jan 17, 2012)

*Me Too*

I'm also interested in "how to" on such a saw. I had Husky 336's and absolutely hated them. Got a cs-341 and it's rear handle brother the cs-340 and love them. I was thinking about getting either the cs-360 or another 341 so I'm interested in any follow up on these saws.

Thanks,

HB


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## zogger (Jan 17, 2012)

mikelleen said:


> I am looking at buying one of these saws, it's about $200 cheaper than the Stihl, which I would like, but as a residential owner it doesn't make sense.
> 
> How do I remove the "caps" frankly I do not know whay you are talking about with regards to limiting caps, but if someone could point me in the right direction I can figure it out.
> 
> ...



Limiter caps are plastic caps put on the carb adjustment screws to keep you from turning them to a more correct from an engineering standpoint setting, thereby running afoul of the political epa regulations. They have to be pulled out with like a screw or something, then the tab limiters trimmed off, the plastic nubbies that hit a stop and "limit" how far you can turn the screws. Hence the name..

Here are the other hundreds of threads on this subject..same basic principle 

http://www.google.com/search?q=limiter+caps,+removal+site:arboristsite.com

Same principle applies to most new saws.

Note: if you do this, on your own, presented for academic and amusement purposes only, read up on tuning and kiss any warranty you have goodbye.


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## old hb (Jan 18, 2012)

*Thanks*

Thanks Zogger,

The sites were very helpful. I wonder why the pics on one of them were removed?

HB


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## JustAnotherTreeTrimmer (Dec 6, 2014)

Hey guys I've been doing a lot of messing around with the 360t I have 2 that run. And a parts saw. Any how I figured I'd do a bit of testing with the mufflers. I had a hard time getting a good tune with limiter caps in. So I took the cat out of the muffler and it ran a bit better but not to its full potential. So I cut the exit hole a bit bigger and now it can be tuned correctly with the limiter caps in. The saw runs amazing now. All of these new emissions are killing these saws. Well I hope this helps someone.


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## 67L36Driver (Dec 6, 2014)

Interesting as I have a 330T that I dug the cat out of. Didn't really notice much, if any, improvement. I already had removed the limiters.


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## 67L36Driver (Dec 6, 2014)

One thing I did find was after removing limiters is the Low is out 3 1/2 turns and High out 2 1/2 turns. 

Needs more tinkering.


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## JustAnotherTreeTrimmer (Dec 6, 2014)

And you took the spark arrestor out right? I opened the exit in the exhaust a bit too. I never even took the limiters out.


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## JustAnotherTreeTrimmer (Dec 6, 2014)

And did you get the cat all the way out? There isnt any cat left in the bottom of the muffler?


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