# Fiskars...



## D&B Mack

Cause someone had to do it...


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## Icehouse

Why???


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## D&B Mack

icehouse said:


> Why???



Just ask for a recommendation of a splitting maul/ax... opcorn:


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## promac850

lol, jackass.


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## BluntForgedEdge

Speaking of Fiskers, do these count as "hand held tools?"


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## D&B Mack

BluntForgedEdge said:


> Speaking of Fiskers, do these count as "hand held tools?"



Oooh, I need the 11 to fill in the blank. :msp_wub:


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## redheadwoodshed

I have to admit I thought all the rage over the Fiskars was just hype.I was made a believer when I got an x27. Great tool, I'm sure the others are too.


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## loadthestove

SteadyEddie said:


> I have to admit I thought all the rage over the Fiskars was just hype.I was made a believer when I got an x27. Great tool, I'm sure the others are too.



I felt the same way ,,Until I purchased one.I also own a set of bush trimmers and a limb trimmer made by fiskars and they are both excellent products.


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## OlympicYJ

When I was looking at getting a maul I looked at several different kinds. I prefer splitting with an axe as I'm a small guy and an axe is just more comfortable for me. I instantly liked the fiskars in the store because if felt more axe like than other mauls I had been looking at. Got it home and tried er out and just like everyone else was blown away. I will say it's not as good for pounding splitting wedges as a regular maul is. There is a reason they say not to do it. Cracked the handle on it (hit the handle right behind the head) but it hasn't broken yet. If it ever goes I'll take it back to the saw shop and see if they'll just hand me a new one. If not I guess I learned the hard way. Plus they don't have enough surface area for poundin wedges anyways.


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## 2strokenut

I still don't know id probably kill it to much plastic around the head what you all think


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## deepsouth

2strokenut said:


> I still don't know id probably kill it to much plastic around the head what you all think



They work well, I get a lot of my hardwood from a bit north of Ouse, and they split a 14" lOng round so long as there is no fork in the gum tree. 

Also impressed a bloke who neighbours the property I cut on who has a wood yard down south. 

However, buy from US, it worked out to be $50 + $35 air freight per X27 from Baileys, yet all local places are $130-140 retail. Even at agfest last year in a price war, they were $99. 

I split some big rounds, green is easy as, old dry wood from rubbish piles takes a bit more but still fine. I also use it to drive in plastic falling wedges if falling or bucking no worries. 


I even used my older X27 to cut the roots on a conifer in the garden in the dirt when dragging the stump out with my 4wd, as I needed to cut them somehow. The edge is dulled a bit from the dirt, but a couple of minutes with a raker file will fix it.

In short, I recommend them.


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## stihl023/5

I keep considering one, but the lever on my splitter works real well.


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## 2strokenut

deepsouth said:


> They work well, I get a lot of my hardwood from a bit north of Ouse, and they split a 14" lOng round so long as there is no fork in the gum tree.
> 
> Also impressed a bloke who neighbours the property I cut on who has a wood yard down south.
> 
> However, buy from US, it worked out to be $50 + $35 air freight per X27 from Baileys, yet all local places are $130-140 retail. Even at agfest last year in a price war, they were $99.
> 
> I split some big rounds, green is easy as, old dry wood from rubbish piles takes a bit more but still fine. I also use it to drive in plastic falling wedges if falling or bucking no worries.
> 
> 
> I even used my older X27 to cut the roots on a conifer in the garden in the dirt when dragging the stump out with my 4wd, as I needed to cut them somehow. The edge is dulled a bit from the dirt, but a couple of minutes with a raker file will fix it.
> 
> In short, I recommend them.


thanks for that bit of info i might have to pick one up and see how it go's


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## Youngbuck20

split some small pine rounds with my x11 today, on a concrete floor. I have some sharpening to do.


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## Ronaldo

I have the x25 and the x7 and would like to get an x15 some day. The x15 is a bit short for use as an axe, isnt it? What do you guys use the x15 for? I may not have found that I really need an x15 and that is why I dont have one ------yet.

Ron


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## deepsouth

It's great for use in a confined space. 

I keep it in my 4wd, and used it effectively under my 4wd when a branch flicked up and jammed itself around the rear diff and suspension linkages to cut through it and remove it. 

Not sure what else i would like it for?


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## BluntForgedEdge

Here's a Fiskars I picked up this evening:
















Will see how it performs this weekend.


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## zogger

bump...want to see how the fiskars weed popper works out.


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## Hoowasat

Saw the Fiskars axe & hatchet at the local Sears yesterday. They looked impressive, but wanted to read here what folks thought. Now that I've read this thread, I just might go buy the pair ... about $75 for both.


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## zogger

Hoowasat said:


> Saw the Fiskars axe & hatchet at the local Sears yesterday. They looked impressive, but wanted to read here what folks thought. Now that I've read this thread, I just might go buy the pair ... about $75 for both.



75 bucks for both is decent. You'll like them.

I like everything fiskars I own except the sharpener, for some reason I can't get mine to sharpen anything, and I have spent hours with it, tried it on all sorts of edged things including fiskars axe and hatchet. I am beginning to think I got a reject one, because everyone else reports god success and easy top use.

or I am a tard, which..well..might have some merit to that notion 

Tell ya what, if you garden or have need of a real good tough shovel, man, best shovel I ever used, fiskars long handled super shovel. Dang, just dang. I am sure there are probably better shovels out there, but I certainly never saw or ran one better, and I am well long familiar with running ethnic steam shovels...

Firewood forum has lebenty dozen fiskars axes versus everything else threads, with some rather "spirited" commentary pro and con...hahahaha! Spirited, ya, that's the word...


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## Whiskey_Bravo

I like my X27 36" a lot, but the steel the head is made out of is questionable to me. The edge on mine chips out annoyingly fast.


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## tickbitintn

having read all the hype... "spirited" arguments and such for both sides, i purchased an x27 and have been very impressed with it so far. it is an effective tool that is light & easy to swing. it is not a "do all" tool, it will not replace a wedge and sledge or large maul. for it's size and ease of use i'd rather swing it though.

if you break it... it has a lifetime guarantee though, if its old and they don't make the same model anymore they will replace it with next larger or next smaller size of your choice. ( i believe gerber axes & hatchets are made by them as well, but don't know if they carry same guarantee.)

i split mainly oak with mine but have used it on a little of everything, including sweetgum & elm (that my neighbor said was un-splittable).. an "edge-friendly" material under what u are trying to split will require less sharpening. the fiskars sharpener (that is recommended) also works very well. i have also used the sharpener on many other edges with much success. earlier post being first i've heard of with problems using it.

i have also purchased a fiskars hand held pole trimmer/ lopper that works very well. any tools i need in the future that they produce will also likely be purchased ( i hate my hedge trimmers but don't use them enough to justify replacing them with the fiskars just yet)


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## zogger

tickbitintn said:


> having read all the hype... "spirited" arguments and such for both sides, i purchased an x27 and have been very impressed with it so far. it is an effective tool that is light & easy to swing. it is not a "do all" tool, it will not replace a wedge and sledge or large maul. for it's size and ease of use i'd rather swing it though.
> 
> if you break it... it has a lifetime guarantee though, if its old and they don't make the same model anymore they will replace it with next larger or next smaller size of your choice. ( i believe gerber axes & hatchets are made by them as well, but don't know if they carry same guarantee.)
> 
> i split mainly oak with mine but have used it on a little of everything, including sweetgum & elm (that my neighbor said was un-splittable).. an "edge-friendly" material under what u are trying to split will require less sharpening. the fiskars sharpener (that is recommended) also works very well. i have also used the sharpener on many other edges with much success. earlier post being first i've heard of with problems using it.
> 
> i have also purchased a fiskars hand held pole trimmer/ lopper that works very well. any tools i need in the future that they produce will also likely be purchased ( i hate my hedge trimmers but don't use them enough to justify replacing them with the fiskars just yet)



I am more impressed with the fiskars long handled garden supershovel over my supersplitter!


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## Weesa20

Love my x25- cracked a bunch of 25" oak rounds with it this weekend


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## GrassGuerilla

Just got my x-27 today.  Granted, it's new, sharp, slick. Can't believe how much easier it is to use. Already want an x-25 for the smaller stuff. My old 8lb maul is like an antique now.


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## zogger

GrassGuerilla said:


> Just got my x-27 today.  Granted, it's new, sharp, slick. Can't believe how much easier it is to use. Already want an x-25 for the smaller stuff. My old 8lb maul is like an antique now.




While that teflon coating is still intact, protect it with some cheap spray lube.


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## GrassGuerilla

Should have some time this afternoon to hit some bigger rounds. I've got some fairly dry oak around 22" or so. Gotta print me some inspirational pics;-)


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## shutup-n-cut

My X27 came yesterday and looks pretty nice can't wait to give it a try on some maple I have , after I did it out of the snow that is.
Thanks zogger for the spray lube tip , can't hurt I guess.


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## branchbuzzer

zogger said:


> I like everything fiskars I own except the sharpener, for some reason I can't get mine to sharpen anything, and I have spent hours with it, tried it on all sorts of edged things including fiskars axe and hatchet. I am beginning to think I got a reject one, because everyone else reports god success and easy top use.
> 
> or I am a tard, which..well..might have some merit to that notion



No it was defective, gotta be Zogs, cuz I got one from the same flippin' batch! Sent out by a guy named Juha who is yuckin' it up right now over in Raseborg with his buds about how long it's gonna take for us Appy's to figure out the wheels are on backwards! ( or maybe it was just a college kid from Madison, I dunno ). Either way, it don't do diddly poo for me either. But I may also be defective, cuz I originally thought saw chain files went both directions ( faster right? ) so there ya go.....


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## Alongshot

Anyone know what the idea or difference is w/the all black versions of Fiskars hatchet/Axes? They're listed a few bucks cheaper than the X versions on their website.


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## Youngbuck20

Alongshot said:


> Anyone know what the idea or difference is w/the all black versions of Fiskars hatchet/Axes? They're listed a few bucks cheaper than the X versions on their website.


Haven't seen them. Could be rip offs?


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## Alongshot

Youngbuck20 said:


> Haven't seen them. Could be rip offs?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free



No, they are listed on Fiskars website next to the X series. Looks like just a different finish on them.


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## zogger

Alongshot said:


> No, they are listed on Fiskars website next to the X series. Looks like just a different finish on them.



Yes, the finish and a very slightly different handle end. I called them up and asked them.


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## Alongshot

zogger said:


> Yes, the finish and a very slightly different handle end. I called them up and asked them.



Thanks zogger for the reply & that you checked w/them. Saw it onsale today listed online w/orange handle figured it was the X7 ordered w/store pickup & they handed me the black version when I went to pick it up. Not a big deal, but doesn't fit in next to my X11 & X25 not sure if I'm gonna keep it w/the others or a gift for someone down the road, for the price I got it is a keeper for someone.
My 2cents on the black version, I would prefer the X series, don't like the different way they textured the handle & black paint on the head is just going to wear off w/use.


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## McGoo

I guess I can join the fiskars club today, as I picked up an X27 to try and split up the eucalyptus pile. So far it's not a bad performer, but I don't know if it's a good one either. I've been using 8lb and 6lb block splitters, one name brand and one cheap one, neither of which lasted very long due to snapped handles. 

The X27 is nice and light, and therefore easy to swing, but the lack of weight is proving a problem in the tough chunks of wood. So far if I can't drive in far enough to split with the X27, I make a big enough imprint in the top to be able to drive a splitting wedge in with the sledgehammer.


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## mdavlee

I have the x27 and I'm going to look into getting the husky splitting axe or the stihl splitting axe. The head gets stuck easily in tough wood. I've broken one handle in them. All you do is take a picture of the damage and send it in and in a week or so you'll have a new one show up.


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## 94BULLITT

The X27 is good but I think I like this true temper maul better. I can split better with it, it does not get stuck as easily as the fiskars and it absorbs the shock better than the fiskars.  http://www.lowes.com/pd_147592-302-1113098600_0__?productId=3710520&Ntt=spitting+maul&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dspitting%2Bmaul&facetInfo=


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## mad murdock

Well, I have used a lot of different splitting axes/mauls. I was dubious of the hype over the fiskars splitting axes. I tried them over the weekend, they do perform. I find the x25 to be a bit more effective than the x27, the head geometry is slightly different, it seems to split rounds easier, even with the shorter handle. Going to have to add one to my arsenal.


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## McGoo

Four hours of splitting so far and results are mixed. In the straight,drier wood it's great. One good swing and one piece of wood becomes two. In the greener salmon gum, and/or where it's knotted, you could swing all day and get nowhere. Also, it seems to get stuck in the wood a lot more than a true maul, this is proving frustrating.


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## knothole

mad murdock said:


> Well, I have used a lot of different splitting axes/mauls. I was dubious of the hype over the fiskars splitting axes. I tried them over the weekend, they do perform. I find the x25 to be a bit more effective than the x27, the head geometry is slightly different, it seems to split rounds easier, even with the shorter handle. Going to have to add one to my arsenal.


Agreed, the X25 is a nice piece. Does a good job with a short handle.


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## 94BULLITT

I have heard that you have to be careful with the X25. With its short handle it would be easy to hit yourself.


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## knothole

94BULLITT said:


> I have heard that you have to be careful with the X25. With its short handle it would be easy to hit yourself.



Correct. I would not (do not) use an elevated chopping block. It can come back on you..... All around excellent splitter though.


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## firebrick43

Normally get a handle broke every other year or so but damn, got two maul handles in a month soliciting dry easy splitting elm? Instead of splitting straight across it splits perpendicular to the blade at the handle side edges causing a sharp point on the round that catches the handle and tears the fibers out of the side. Did it twice today to the same maul and know needs a new handle as I don't trust how much of the handle is left. I have a Fiskars forest axe and love it and was wondering, has anyone actually broken a splitting axe handle and why. I imagine after two or three new ads
Under warranty they would "axe" you! Sorry couldn't help th


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## mdavlee

I broke the x27 handle around the head. Don't use it to free a stuck maul or splitting wedge.


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## Hoowasat

D&B Mack said:


> Cause someone had to do it...


The OP did not specify which Fiskars product, and this thread has centered around axes/hatchets ... and yes, I have a couple of 'em. Have any of you tried Fiskars loppers? I used a buddy's old pair and was thoroughly impressed ... have since bought 3 pair - a standard bypass lopper, a ratcheting anvil lopper, and their telescoping-handle bypass lopper. I now have more Fiskars products than Stihl chainsaws.


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## 94BULLITT

Hoowasat said:


> The OP did not specify which Fiskars product, and this thread has centered around axes/hatchets ... and yes, I have a couple of 'em. Have any of you tried Fiskars loppers? I used a buddy's old pair and was thoroughly impressed ... have since bought 3 pair - a standard bypass lopper, a ratcheting anvil lopper, and their telescoping-handle bypass lopper. I now have more Fiskars products than Stihl chainsaws.



I have a pair of Fiskars bypass loppers, they are nice. I have a fiskars leaf rake, it is my favorite leaf rake. The leaves come off of it by turning it over and dragging it. It is really light. http://www2.fiskars.com/Gardening-and-Yard-Care/Products/Rakes/Leaf-Rake


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## Alongshot

I've got some fiskars axes & hatchets love them. Got a machete awhile back as a gift, edge was done horribly wrong, folded the edge in 4 places first time use. 4 folds in 4 swings couldn't belive it. Will try to post picks of it, hope I can contact fiskars on it for a replacement or something, it was a gift & don't have the reciept. I grabbed my Gerber machete to use on the same limb and it tore through it no problem.


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## firebrick43

Well I ordered, received, and used the x27. Wow. Glad it drank the kool aid. I think I could swing it all day. Split and stacked a 1/3 of a cord of white oak in less than an hour while the boy napped. It just glided thru straight pieces with little effort and didn't stick in a single crotch piece.


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## AKDoug

I have a 6'4" 300+lb guy that works for me. He'd kill a wood maul handle every five cords of wood. He does wood for a side job in excess of 100 hand split cords a year. He's a beast. 

I decided to stock the X27's in my store, and bought one for myself. We had about 10 cords to do for our store wood (I heat the store with wood) and was so impressed with it that I loaned it to him. He bought two from our shelf the next day. To this day, 70 cords later, he hasn't broke one yet. They aren't unbreakable, but they are damned tough.


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## jerry quinn

Alongshot said:


> I've got some fiskars axes & hatchets love them. Got a machete awhile back as a gift, edge was done horribly wrong, folded the edge in 4 places first time use. 4 folds in 4 swings couldn't belive it. Will try to post picks of it, hope I can contact fiskars on it for a replacement or something, it was a gift & don't have the reciept. I grabbed my Gerber machete to use on the same limb and it tore through it no problem.


I think the machete`s are made in china, where the splitters are made in Finland.


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## zogger

the Fiskars garden shovel is the best I have ever used. I had the machete, it was stolen with the saws, but meh, not so hot. The folding pocket saw is OK. 

Haven't tried the x27 yet, but run the original supersplitter a lot. Been going back and forth with that, my new husky/wetterlings maul, then the anvil on a stick. They all work, the fiskars is the easiest to swing and use. For the money, best hand tool I ever bought.


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## lowbudget

Youngbuck20 said:


> Haven't seen them. Could be rip offs?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free


Sears has one that has a 28" handle I believe. that size is not available in the orange handled one...


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## opinion

AKDoug said:


> I have a 6'4" 300+lb guy that works for me. He'd kill a wood maul handle every five cords of wood. He does wood for a side job in excess of 100 hand split cords a year. He's a beast.
> 
> I decided to stock the X27's in my store, and bought one for myself. We had about 10 cords to do for our store wood (I heat the store with wood) and was so impressed with it that I loaned it to him. He bought two from our shelf the next day. To this day, 70 cords later, he hasn't broke one yet. They aren't unbreakable, but they are damned tough.



Have you tried using the Stihl Pa 50 or the new "Pro" splitting axe with the steel sleeve wrapped around? Both Ochsenkopf, of course.


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## AKDoug

I have a Stihl PA50 as well as the Stihl PA 80. I have not tried the new "Pro" or "Woodcutter" Models. The handles on the PA 50 and PA80 take a beating. Our birch is tenacious and the maul will often go half way through and hang up "stringy" wood holding it together. It erodes handles pretty quick. My solution is to wrap an entire roll of electrical tape around them right below the head. I haven't lost a handle yet this way. I think the X-27 is better than either of them, and all my help agrees.


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## lowbudget

lowbudget said:


> Sears has one that has a 28" handle I believe. that size is not available in the orange handled one...



they all are now starting to come with an all black handle (like this one). is there any difference to the head?..


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## Youngbuck20

I don't like the new handles but there's a sale on so I'm going to pick up another x11. Last one is MIA at the dreaded in laws. 


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## woodeneye

I just broke the handle on my only splitting axe last week. I'm 6' 5" and wondering if the x27 would suit me? I'm saving up money as quick as I can so I can get back to work and need to know if my money would be well spent on one. Thanks.


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## zogger

woodeneye said:


> I just broke the handle on my only splitting axe last week. I'm 6' 5" and wondering if the x27 would suit me? I'm saving up money as quick as I can so I can get back to work and need to know if my money would be well spent on one. Thanks.



Lifetime guarantee on them, so...just keep it sharp! Keep the edge out of the dirt. I split on a low block inside a tire. I make big rounds fit by first with a traditional maul and sledge hammer and wedges, etc, then put the chunks in the tire for the final fiskarization (which is when it gets fun for me, whapwhap whap machine gun splitting! hahahaha. I was busting up some big oak rounds tonight, three footers, I was getting two wheelbarrows of big pie slice chunks per round, I'll finish them off later this week, make up split to stack size.

In the meantime until you try an x27, whittle out a handle for your other one.

I like having a variety. 

six five, ha! I am not quite five six! 118 lbs of rip snorting...uhh...tired semi old guy. Not re-tired, but definitely tired... Still bust wood though! I have the original supersplitter with just the 28 inch handle, the x27 with a 36 inch handle has to build up more speed. So ya, should work for you.


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## woodeneye

Thanks, that's just what I needed to know. I'll pull the trigger as soon as funds allow.


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## zogger

woodeneye said:


> Thanks, that's just what I needed to know. I'll pull the trigger as soon as funds allow.



Cool, you'll like it probably. Once you pick it up it's like swinging a whiffle ball bat, they weigh like nuthin'. They work by speed over force so read the round, nail the existing cracks, etc, and work on flicking that thing fast and accurate. 

The factory teflon coating eventually wears off, so, what I have found is at home depot and most likely other places, they have spray cans of dry teflon lube made by pb blaster. Couple quick spritzes on it after sharpening works wonders. Took me around..hmm..two years, so around 8 cord to wear off the factory coating. In retrospect, i wish I had sprayed it from day one. Same stuff works on other axes and mauls, etc, keeps them from sticking in the wood.


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## MontanaResident

zogger said:


> Cool, you'll like it probably. Once you pick it up it's like swinging a whiffle ball bat, they weigh like nuthin'. They work by speed over force so read the round, nail the existing cracks, etc, and work on flicking that thing fast and accurate.
> 
> The factory teflon coating eventually wears off, so, what I have found is at home depot and most likely other places, they have spray cans of dry teflon lube made by pb blaster. Couple quick spritzes on it after sharpening works wonders. Took me around..hmm..two years, so around 8 cord to wear off the factory coating. In retrospect, i wish I had sprayed it from day one. Same stuff works on other axes and mauls, etc, keeps them from sticking in the wood.


 
dry teflon lube is on my shopping list now. WD40 seemed to help out a bit this morning for the hour of so that the mornings cool temps lasted.


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## 2strokenut

well fokes i own a nice block of land in OZ and it use to be a saw mill back in the day an old steem powered saw mill the engine is still down the back all rusted out
now to the real point i found an old spliting axe head in the bush and it has almost the same design as the fiskar so some old timer came up with a similar design meany years ago still not as nice to use as the fiskar tho.


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## zogger

2strokenut said:


> well fokes i own a nice block of land in OZ and it use to be a saw mill back in the day an old steem powered saw mill the engine is still down the back all rusted out
> now to the real point i found an old spliting axe head in the bush and it has almost the same design as the fiskar so some old timer came up with a similar design meany years ago still not as nice to use as the fiskar tho.



Be nice to see a pic with them side by side.


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## 2strokenut

i do not have a fisker iv only used my buddys so no side buy side sory i did say similar


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## zogger

Ya, similar to the x25 and 27. The original supersplitter isn't flared at all it is straight wedge shaped.

I have yet to swing any of the new ones so can't say if they are better or worse or the same.

Anyway, nice looking old maul! Sharpen it up, looks like it will rock, plus drive wedges.


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## 2strokenut

yip ill give it a sharpen


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## regulate34

I was humming about the Fiskars. Didn't want to buy one to try as I have all the axes I need. Turned out a friend had a X27 maul. Gave it a shot. Not impressed. Found the handle to flex a lot. For a maul it don't power threw the wood. I found the hook on the handle bottom to hurt my pinky finger threw the gloves. Wouldn't hold a edge very long. I will stick with my Old steel heads with SCH40 pipe handles.


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## tntblaster14

I used the X27 all last winter to split 12-18" rounds of oak, cherry, maple, locust for firewood. Worked great even compared to my truper maul and gransfors axe. And cheap too...


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## Jimbo209

2strokenut said:


> i do not have a fisker iv only used my buddys so no side buy side sory i did say similar


I have one like that that I split wood with for my teen years, but bad overstrike habit doesn't agree with it very well after using cheap bunnings and others I got a x27 from Amazon... OH Wow, overstrike no problem vibration nup one or two hit in green gum mate and gets through knots that were unsplitable


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## BurnIt13

I wish the X25/X27 was made of a more durable metal. On some larger dense rounds like red oak no matter how fast you swing it it just ends up getting itself stuck good in the wood. Wrestling it out for another 20 whacks on the same spot is one option.....

But the head of the X25/X27 works great as a splitting wedge once its stuck in the round good. 2 hits from a sledge and the wood is split. The only problem is that the hammer end of my Fiskars look like they've been.......well......whacked by sledgehammers alot.

I imagine a more durable metal would be heavier too....things I think would help splitting power.


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## Marshy

BurnIt13 said:


> I wish the X25/X27 was made of a more durable metal. On some larger dense rounds like red oak no matter how fast you swing it it just ends up getting itself stuck good in the wood. Wrestling it out for another 20 whacks on the same spot is one option.....
> 
> But the head of the X25/X27 works great as a splitting wedge once its stuck in the round good. 2 hits from a sledge and the wood is split. The only problem is that the hammer end of my Fiskars look like they've been.......well......whacked by sledgehammers alot.
> 
> I imagine a more durable metal would be heavier too....things I think would help splitting power.


 
I would read your instruction manual again, I dont think Fiskar suggests using the hammer side of the axe. My guess is because the brittle nature of the axe head it will chip and can cause injury and damage to the tool. Yikes.


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## BurnIt13

Marshy said:


> I would read your instruction manual again, I dont think Fiskar suggests using the hammer side of the axe. My guess is because the brittle nature of the axe head it will chip and can cause injury and damage to the tool. Yikes.



Whats the fun in that? They might as well make a rounded hammer end if its not intended for use. And it came with an instruction manual?


----------



## zogger

BurnIt13 said:


> Whats the fun in that? They might as well make a rounded hammer end if its not intended for use. And it came with an instruction manual?



I think it is on the carry handle thing, not to use the rear for striking or to be struck. Thing might splinter on you, high speed metal slivers going who knows where, or bust the whole axe. 

If you have wood needs a sledge and wedge, well, different tools for different wood. 

Now Fiskars makes a heavier maul with a striking head on the back, but it isn't for sale in the US. Has a replaceable composite striker, interesting design. Another one of those "I'd like to try it" axes/mauls.

http://www.amazon.de/Fiskars-122150-Spalthammer-SAFE-T-X39/dp/B004ARHEY4


----------



## BurnIt13

I'm a full grown midget at 5'9 with boots on....and the X25 makes me nervous. I can't imagine anyone taller than me splitting wood unless they are on their knees. I was thinking of moving up to the X27 but in light of the "we gave you a hammer end but don't use it or you might die" instruction epiphany....I think I might give a Stihl Pro Spliting Axe a try. Their pro splitting maul is pretty sweet too. The hard part is actually finding one.
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/hand-tools/axes/prosplitaxe/


----------



## KenJax Tree

My Stihl dealer had some on the wall yesterday.


----------



## BurnIt13

Yeah I'm going to have to ask them again next time I'm there. I think I got a new employee last time and they didn't seem to know Stihl made axes.


----------



## Marshy

zogger said:


> I think it is on the carry handle thing, not to use the rear for striking or to be struck. Thing might splinter on you, high speed metal slivers going who knows where, or bust the whole axe.
> 
> If you have wood needs a sledge and wedge, well, different tools for different wood.
> 
> Now Fiskars makes a heavier maul with a striking head on the back, but it isn't for sale in the US. Has a replaceable composite striker, interesting design. Another one of those "I'd like to try it" axes/mauls.
> 
> http://www.amazon.de/Fiskars-122150-Spalthammer-SAFE-T-X39/dp/B004ARHEY4


 
That is amazing. I wonder if it has the same warrante that the other axes have...


----------



## Stihl Livin

My friend has an x25 and he still hasn't figured out how to swing it the best way yet and glanced of the log this weekend and put a 3-4 inch slice through his leather work boots and through his sock and left a 1/4-1/2 nick in the top of his foot. He then proceeded to order himself the new rapid fire splitter from dr.


----------



## zogger

Stihl Livin said:


> My friend has an x25 and he still hasn't figured out how to swing it the best way yet and glanced of the log this weekend and put a 3-4 inch slice through his leather work boots and through his sock and left a 1/4-1/2 nick in the top of his foot. He then proceeded to order himself the new rapid fire splitter from dr.




Did you ever show him about using an old tire to split in?


----------



## zogger

BurnIt13 said:


> I'm a full grown midget at 5'9 with boots on....and the X25 makes me nervous. I can't imagine anyone taller than me splitting wood unless they are on their knees. I was thinking of moving up to the X27 but in light of the "we gave you a hammer end but don't use it or you might die" instruction epiphany....I think I might give a Stihl Pro Spliting Axe a try. Their pro splitting maul is pretty sweet too. The hard part is actually finding one.
> http://www.stihlusa.com/products/hand-tools/axes/prosplitaxe/



Fiskars x25 and 27 are axes, not mauls. I don't think there are too many axe companies who say it is cool to smack steel wedges or beat on them with a sledgehammer. Even though the back is flat and square. Axes are just different than mauls, like trucks and cars are different, but similar. A plastic wedge I would guess is OK, but steel, nope, or beating on the back, nope, switch to a maul, sharpen it axe sharp.

Mauls are different, they are designed to smack other steel things or get smacked.

You have to compare like to like.

I use everything, fiskars axe, two different mauls, some generic cheapo and the husky wooden handled model, sledge, wedges, and...noodling. Depends on the wood which tool I grab.

If you made me choose just one of those tools, I'd take the fiskars axe over the husky wooden handled maul or the generic heavy one for sure. The mauls are just too heavy and jarring for me, ya, they can bust wood, but they bust me at the same time.


----------



## Marshy

Stihl Livin said:


> My friend has an x25 and he still hasn't figured out how to swing it the best way yet and glanced of the log this weekend and put a 3-4 inch slice through his leather work boots and through his sock and left a 1/4-1/2 nick in the top of his foot. He then proceeded to order himself the new rapid fire splitter from dr.


 I had a friend to the same thing but his was deeper and cost 6 stiches. Funny thing about steel toe boots, they deflect things very well. Had he use the X-27 he might have fell in love and never went with the DR splitter...


----------



## Splitterz

The long handled Fiskars splitting axe is a real gem. Perfect in my book in fact!!


----------



## dancan

BurnIt13 said:


> I wish the X25/X27 was made of a more durable metal.................
> I imagine a more durable metal would be heavier too....things I think would help splitting power.


 
It would be close to the same weight regardless of steel type .
Drive a wedge with the maul to open the split and then take out the stuck axe or use another axe/maul and work the round from the other side , you have more than 1 axe right ???
I'm 5'8" and like the x25 , I get a fast swing and split with the rounds on the ground or in a tire , it works well for me , I save the crap wood for the splitter because I can


----------



## dancan

X25 pics


----------



## Full Chisel

I have the smaller hatchet, don't know the model number. Have had it a while. Not sure what to think of it, the grind bevel is weird and not really suited for any particular use...I guess multi-purpose would describe it well. It's too steep for effective chopping and too narrow and flat for a good kindling splitter. And while the steel takes a razor edge with no effort, not surprisingly it doesn't hold the edge long at all and gets nicked up if you look at it wrong. I don't think I would buy another Fiskars branded hatchet/axe based on my experience with it.


----------



## Jordan6679

I picked up the x27, and 14" axe. They are awesome! Been going hard this week since I picked them up.


----------



## mldrenen

i've been splitting wood for years with a 3lb felling axe on a 28" handle. i place the wood up on a large round about thigh high. i'm so comfortable with this setup, that i could split a sliver in half without missing.

but i kept reading all of the glowing reviews on fiskars axes. so i went out and picked up an x27. spent a day splitting with it. and hated it. i couldn't get used to the balance or the plastic handle. brought it back to the store, and have since split many cords with my felling axe. maybe if i had kept it for a few weeks i could've grown to like it, but then i wouldn't have been comfortable anymore with my felling axe. i think muscle memory is an important factor in being able to split wood well.

if i ever do try one again, i'll go for the x25. if you know what you're doing, the axe doesn't ever end up near your feet.


----------



## Ronaldo

mldrenen said:


> i've been splitting wood for years with a 3lb felling axe on a 28" handle. i place the wood up on a large round about thigh high. i'm so comfortable with this setup, that i could split a sliver in half without missing.
> 
> but i kept reading all of the glowing reviews on fiskars axes. so i went out and picked up an x27. spent a day splitting with it. and hated it. i couldn't get used to the balance or the plastic handle. brought it back to the store, and have since split many cords with my felling axe. maybe if i had kept it for a few weeks i could've grown to like it, but then i wouldn't have been comfortable anymore with my felling axe. i think muscle memory is an important factor in being able to split wood well.
> 
> if i ever do try one again, i'll go for the x25. if you know what you're doing, the axe doesn't ever end up near your feet.


What kind of wood are you splitting with the felling axe?
Most of what I split would just cause the axe to stick terribly and the pieces would be laughing at me I'm afraid.


----------



## mldrenen

Ronaldo said:


> What kind of wood are you splitting with the felling axe?
> Most of what I split would just cause the axe to stick terribly and the pieces would be laughing at me I'm afraid.



red oak, maple, beech, white birch, and white ash. beech and birch are the tough ones, the rest pop apart pretty easily. i'm not saying the axe doesn't bind every once in a while, but i'm so used to this axe and know the wood well enough that i can tell exactly where to strike on each piece to have the best results. i have bigger axes and mauls, but they don't get used. i think developing a good technique is as important as the tool you're using.


----------



## Full Chisel

Ronaldo said:


> What kind of wood are you splitting with the felling axe?
> Most of what I split would just cause the axe to stick terribly and the pieces would be laughing at me I'm afraid.



That's what I was thinking as well.


----------



## michael j

I don't deal with sticking. Once it sticks, I drive it through with my short handled 8lb hammer. Why anyone would fight a sticking splittin' tool is beyond me. That's why a fiskers is no good for me. I chipped one up in no time hitting it. I've found spraying them with silicon works wonders though.


----------



## Marshy

michael j said:


> I don't deal with sticking. Once it sticks, I drive it through with my short handled 8lb hammer. Why anyone would fight a sticking splittin' tool is beyond me. That's why a fiskers is no good for me. I chipped one up in no time hitting it. I've found spraying them with silicon works wonders though.


Yep, hitting them with another tool falls under the misuse category. It says in the guard not to strike any other steel objects with it or strike it with other steel objects... I want to buy some spray on Teflon and give it a try. It looks like my coating is wearing off but I don't know for sure that it works any less than it did new. Keeping the cutting edge sharp might play a bigger factor. I keep mine tuned up with a flat file.


----------



## Aber28

I grabbed an X27 for $40 used once off Craigs yesterday. Split a good bit today effortlessly. Kind of bummed me out I'm not sore as I rely on it for a workout. Oh well, guess I have to do more wood next time. 

I can see it being easy to chip up. Having bought it second hand I do not have a receipt. There is a sticker on the back of the cover 'Lewis Power Equipment 74.95'
Would that be enough to get me another one if it breaks?


----------



## Marshy

Aber28 said:


> I grabbed an X27 for $40 used once off Craigs yesterday. Split a good bit today effortlessly. Kind of bummed me out I'm not sore as I rely on it for a workout. Oh well, guess I have to do more wood next time.
> 
> I can see it being easy to chip up. Having bought it second hand I do not have a receipt. There is a sticker on the back of the cover 'Lewis Power Equipment 74.95'
> Would that be enough to get me another one if it breaks?



Hope it was in good shape because they sell new for $50 in my area...


----------



## Aber28

Yeah it was in good shape. I tried to get him to 35 and he told me what he paid. I said sorry bud I see them for 55 online all the time


----------



## gaspipe

My wife bought me an X27 a couple years back for Xmas. I like it. I spent many years swinging a 9lb spike maul driving spikes as a railroad worker, so swinging steel is no stranger. Anyway, I have an old splitting maul (no idea who manufactured it), that's probably 1/2" shorter than when I bought it due to the bazillion file strokes sharpening it, and I gotta say, although I'm having a hard time falling in love with the synthetic handles of the new stuff, the Fiskars splits wood well. I don't split with a block of any kind because of the years with a spike maul (I like to hit low), but I find my old splitting maul sits in the shop more than it gets used now and I'm busy sharpening the Fiskars edge instead. 

But I did just clean up and parkerize the head of the old maul, and put a new hickory handle on it this Fall.


----------



## woodchuck357

Stihl Livin said:


> My friend has an x25 and he still hasn't figured out how to swing it the best way yet and glanced of the log this weekend and put a 3-4 inch slice through his leather work boots and through his sock and left a 1/4-1/2 nick in the top of his foot. He then proceeded to order himself the new rapid fire splitter from dr.


Any short hafted splitting tool increases the chance of hitting yourself, setting the rounds on a high block does also. When combined you are really asking for trouble.


----------



## mldrenen

woodchuck357 said:


> Any short hafted splitting tool increases the chance of hitting yourself, setting the rounds on a high block does also. When combined you are really asking for trouble.




that's simply not true. a short-hafted axe/maul chopping wood on a block requires an adjustment to your swing. rather than an arcing, windmill style swing with a lot of wrist turn, you swing straight down through the piece of wood, with nearly locked wrists and your hands staying below or parallel the head for most of the swing.


----------



## dannyknapp

I was looking at the X27 pretty seriously, but it bothered me that I can't replace the handle and that the steel may be lower quality and require lots of sharpening. I decided to try this Ames splitter instead. I think it's the same concept, lightweight but pushes the wood apart. Website says high-carbon steel, wish it had hickory handle, but at least I can put one in it if I want. We'll see, should get it in a few days.
http://www.amestruetemper.com/products/detail.aspx?ProductId=115&FamilyId=87&LineId=72


----------



## Marshy

dannyknapp said:


> I was looking at the X27 pretty seriously, but it bothered me that I can't replace the handle and that the steel may be lower quality and require lots of sharpening. I decided to try this Ames splitter instead. I think it's the same concept, lightweight but pushes the wood apart. Website says high-carbon steel, wish it had hickory handle, but at least I can put one in it if I want. We'll see, should get it in a few days.
> http://www.amestruetemper.com/products/detail.aspx?ProductId=115&FamilyId=87&LineId=72


 
The steel in the Fiskars isnt lower quality, it has a different temper and it brittle. It holds an edge very well as long as you keep it out of the dirt and rocks. If you cant manage to do that then you will spend a lot of time trying to keep it sharp. I've had mine for a few years now and have only had to take a flat file to it 2-3 times and its still sharp. It all depends on how you abuse/use it.


----------



## Ambull01

Marshy said:


> The steel in the Fiskars isnt lower quality, it has a different temper and it brittle. It holds an edge very well as long as you keep it out of the dirt and rocks. If you cant manage to do that then you will spend a lot of time trying to keep it sharp. I've had mine for a few years now and have only had to take a flat file to it 2-3 times and its still sharp. It all depends on how you abuse/use it.



Well it is kind of brittle when you split rounds on top of a gravel driveway. 

It went through the round right into the gravel. It can be fixed easily with a flat file, I hope. 

Did everyone adopt the over head swing with the Fiskars or still using the wind mill over the shoulder strike?


----------



## Marshy

Ambull01 said:


> Well it is kind of brittle when you split rounds on top of a gravel driveway.
> 
> It went through the round right into the gravel. It can be fixed easily with a flat file, I hope.
> 
> Did everyone adopt the over head swing with the Fiskars or still using the wind mill over the shoulder strike?


I use both swings. Over the shoulder when more @ss is needed for bigger rounds and leave your hands a little farther apart and lean into your forward hand.


----------



## Ambull01

Marshy said:


> I use both swings. Over the shoulder when more @ss is needed for bigger rounds and leave your hands a little farther apart and lean into your forward hand.



I've tried the over the head swing but my aim isn't as good that way. I can usually hit the same spot with the over the shoulder swing. May just need more practice/muscle memory with the other swing. I really want to try the original Fiskars Splitting Axe that's shaped more like a wedge vice an axe.


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## Johnskis

I use both with the Fiskar x27 but prefer over the should with the maul depends on the size of the round and how many beers I've had. Lol


----------



## missedbass

Aber28 said:


> I grabbed an X27 for $40 used once off Craigs yesterday. Split a good bit today effortlessly. Kind of bummed me out I'm not sore as I rely on it for a workout. Oh well, guess I have to do more wood next time.
> 
> I can see it being easy to chip up. Having bought it second hand I do not have a receipt. There is a sticker on the back of the cover 'Lewis Power Equipment 74.95'
> Would that be enough to get me another one if it breaks?


 Do not think you need a receipt. Try their website.


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## Ronaldo

My brother broke an X27 last winter and did warranty on their website. They requested a couple of pictures and then promptly sent him a new one. 
They did not even want the old one back. Good company to deal with thus far.


----------



## Deererainman

Donated one to the Scout Troop. It lasted 45 minutes. Donated an Estwing axe, 2yrs later..... still going strong.


----------



## Johnskis

Deererainman said:


> Donated one to the Scout Troop. It lasted 45 minutes. Donated an Estwing axe, 2yrs later..... still going strong.


I could see a troop being hard on one and the estwing probably shines in the way of durability, use to have one as a backpacking Axe when I was in scouts, but I'll keep my Fiskar for now, if the splitter is down I know its good for a 1/4 cord of smaller pieces and for the large round pull out the maul. If I aim to chop down a tree I'd likely use the estwing instead as its more suited for that task I think.


----------



## zogger

Deererainman said:


> Donated one to the Scout Troop. It lasted 45 minutes. Donated an Estwing axe, 2yrs later..... still going strong.



How was it broken, and where did it break?


----------



## El Quachito

I bought a Fiskars pruning saw at WalMart the other day. Not what I had hoped for at all. Several years back I bought a Fiskars pruning saw there for $10 and it was a great tool for me--until I lost it. This one was $13, not the same model, but the blade was an absolute joke and not nearly the overall quality of the first one. Cuts like it has sawed rocks.

I am going to go through the process and see if they replace it. I still like my X7 hatchet but it is kind of a buzz kill right now. Fiskars is batting 2 for 3.


----------



## Marshy

zogger said:


> How was it broken, and where did it break?


 The kids probably ran it into the rocks and tossed it when they realized the metal chips easier than regular steel. That or scout master took it home for himself when he realized the liability he would face when one of the kids chops off a finger or foot.


----------



## Deererainman

Marshy said:


> The kids probably ran it into the rocks and tossed it when they realized the metal chips easier than regular steel. That or scout master took it home for himself when he realized the liability he would face when one of the kids chops off a finger or foot.


 

Handle part right at the head.



zogger said:


> How was it broken, and where did it break?


 
They had it stuck in a log and were leaning on the handle to get it loose. (It had taken some blows to the handle already, which didn't help)

Most Boy Scout Troops have multiple wood chopping tools and teach the boys to responsibly use them.

I just chalked it up to wrong product for the wrong audience. Not sure if you've ever noticed some of the older Bridgeport Boy Scout hatchets, they have steel handles. Boy and Scoutmaster proof.


----------



## Homelite410

anyone ever used the dig dawg? X36 I believe?


----------



## Marshy

Homelite410 said:


> anyone ever used the dig dawg? X36 I believe?



No, but I would love to get my hands on one. I found one video on youtube where two young'ins were wacking rounds with one... I wonder if the handle has the same warranty as the other Fiskar products.


----------



## McPherson

Broke my 28" anvil lopper two times, contacted them by their website. I'm kinda rough with the tool.. First time they shipped me a replacement part (adjustable anvil), second time model is not available anymore so they shipped me a brand new tool. For me customer service is A+. I hope to try the new one soon and see if the quality took a drop as people are saying, or if it's still a good brand.

And by the way, no invoice required, just a pict of the tool that you send with you inquiry!


----------



## zogger

Marshy said:


> No, but I would love to get my hands on one. I found one video on youtube where two young'ins were wacking rounds with one... I wonder if the handle has the same warranty as the other Fiskar products.



I don't recall but either the german ebay site or amazon site has them. You might could order one.


----------



## Logger nate

Tried the new x27 out today have to say I am very surprised way better than I ever thought they would be. Never thought it would work better than my maul but it does, splitting is fun again.


----------



## Marshy

Logger nate said:


> Tried the new x27 out today have to say I am very surprised way better than I ever thought they would be. Never thought it would work better than my maul but it does, splitting is fun again.


Welcome to the site! 
Keep the wedge out of the dirt helps to keep it sharp. You will have to touch up the edge once in a while, I recommend a flat file that you would use to take down your rakers on you chain. Have fun and keep it away from your toes.


----------



## Logger nate

Thanks, been reading about fiskars for awhile really thought it was mostly hype follow the crowd thing- nope, really amazing how well they work. Definitely fun.


----------



## Ronaldo

Logger nate said:


> Thanks, been reading about fiskars for awhile really thought it was mostly hype follow the crowd thing- nope, really amazing how well they work. Definitely fun.


You didn't think we'd yank your chain and steer you in the wrong direction, did you?


----------



## Logger nate

No not you... Maybe someone...like you


----------



## ncpete

have the Fiskars PowerGear Titanium 32" loppers. Had to pick them up after borrowing the neighbors 1st generation version of that tool - as good as his were, with a nearly worn out cutter, I had to have a set. Freaking awesome tool.


----------



## scsbronco

I drank the cool-aid today. I must say the SSA in 36" demolished some logs my 6lb mauls wouldn't budge!







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Cycledude

Ordered Fiskars X27 a few minutes ago from Home Depot, with tax and free shipping $59, great reviews and lifetime warranty were the big sellers, sure hope I like it !


----------



## LittleLebowski

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...fiskars-x25-to-see-what-its-all-about.295360/


----------



## Homeowner

I have Fiskars axe, it is equivalent of X17, but from time before they started branding them as X-something. 

Fiskars is great when splitting Birch, but mine is too light for knotty pine or anything gnarly, but X25 or X27 costs a lot, welding machine costs more, however I had one already as well as old broken axe head + some random steel. 

Axe head is now roughly 10 pounds in weight, I tend to sharpen it so that I could shave with the blade, it does not matter if there are knots, wrist size pieces of wood can be split across (same direction as you usually saw) with single hit, I love it.

Of course that cheap Chinese axe was unusable at first, it took lot of grinding to make edge for it, also cut handle shorter, it is bit under 2 feet long in total now. 

Way I split pine is usually so that I take slices out near the bark, then start working from edge around the round, makes great workout with that heavy axe, especially as I put round inside a tire and tire rests on large splitting block that's top is around height of my navel. 
That makes it really fast, just hit, move, hit move, hit move, going around the splitting block hitting around the round continually moving.

Next development stage is to add bit more steel, so that I get smooth transition from blade edge to center on both sides, but I need to build up my strength before that, thing really gets me hard workout as of now. 

If I split something that is around knee height or less, it tends to split also block that is under the round, that is my best splitting tool now, 1 foot x 1 foot pine round took 2 minutes to work into less than 2 inch x 1ft firewood pieces, but I was out of breath after that, so I really need the workout, LOL.

Husqvarna axes are better than Fiskars in knotty / gnarly stuff S2800 especially, but I have not tried one, costs a lot, Stihl has also similar axes + wood handle ones, just haven't heard from those or seen them on sale anywhere in here, would love to test them all though. 

I heat solely with firewood, I warm water with firewood and even cook with firewood, so I get some practice with the axe, I split around 5 cords a year with my axes, mostly slowly grown nordic pine, some birch and spruce. 

Also I do some 3ft long firewood because I don't have room to store all the wood as ready made firewood, I use Fiskars splitting wedge for that. They say you only need one wedge of those, that is a lie.

My method is to hit wedge to end of log, turn log so that wedge is at bottom, lift log up and slam it against large rock that is on ground, much faster than hitting wedge with sledgehammer and wedge works better there. Of course there is a limit which I can squat, after 130 pounds it starts to get heavy, so need to choose which trees I make for 3ft and which I do smaller pieces directly. 

Fiskars wedge costs a lot compared to cheap Chinese made ones, but it is nice steel, does not sent pieces of steel flying to your eyeball and it does not get stuck, also those logs it does not split completely are usually split easily with single hit with small axe. 

Also rounded end works great as frozen pizza cheese breaker, damn cheese frozes solid, so that is my solution to problem


----------



## dancan

8 lbs of Fiskars goodness .


----------



## Homeowner

I did ask from Fiskars about IsoCore axes and indeed they don't sell those here, but they have X46 axes here, which are made in France https://www.uittokalusto.fi/fiskars-halkaisulkirves-x46.html

Also X39 and X37 models are available, prices are quite high however.

IsoCore does look better than any of those, I'm not sure, but maybe those IsoCore axes are made in USA then as they are not available here? 

I find it bit funny that Finnish company does not sell it's product in Finland, but that is another subject.


----------



## johnhunts

dancan.4686/ what model fiskar is that Never see them in Australia


----------



## dancan

You'll find the info here 

http://www2.fiskars.com/Special-Feature/IsoCore-Tools-Advantage


----------



## johnhunts

dancan said:


> You'll find the info here


Thanks mate will check it out


----------



## Wowzer

Homelite410 said:


> anyone ever used the dig dawg? X36 I believe?



Anyone own the last 3 in these photos? i can't find them anywhere in Canada>?


----------



## wood4heat

I did all of my splitting with an X27 this year. I was impressed with how effective it is and how little energy it requires! I was also surprised at how soft the steel is! After a day of splitting dry Doug Fir the edge had deformations all along it. I set my rounds on top of a larger round to split them so it never touched the ground. It doesn't seem to impact its effectiveness and it would be easy to touch up with a file if it starts to but neither my Collins or Ludell have done this.


----------



## Marshy

The steel is more brittle than a traditional axe. Touch it up with a flat file.


----------



## 1Alpha1

ncpete said:


> have the Fiskars PowerGear Titanium 32" loppers. Had to pick them up after borrowing the neighbors 1st generation version of that tool - as good as his were, with a nearly worn out cutter, I had to have a set. Freaking awesome tool.




I was at Home Depot just today and saw those. I picked up a pair and they did feel good. I recently bought some Corona loppers but haven't used them as of yet.

Might return those to HD and buy the Fiskars.


----------



## ncpete

1Alpha1 said:


> I was at Home Depot just today and saw those. I picked up a pair and they did feel good. I recently bought some Corona loppers but haven't used them as of yet.
> 
> Might return those to HD and buy the Fiskars.



Have been very, very happy with mine - bought after borrowing my neighbor's Fiskars, the previous model, which had been used so much as to be nearly worn out. They still cut way better than my old ones.


----------



## 1Alpha1

ncpete said:


> Have been very, very happy with mine - bought after borrowing my neighbor's Fiskars, the previous model, which had been used so much as to be nearly worn out. They still cut way better than my old ones.




The only negative issue that I could find was that you have to open the handles much wider than usual to make a cut. In some situations in close quarters, that was a real PITA, according to some that have purchased them.


----------



## flatbroke

For you Nancys out there; I’m told they make an excellent pair of scissors also


----------



## old guy

I too find my x27 to be soft steel, it doesn't chip it just dulls, file's real easy.


----------



## Pagie

I just ordered the Fiskars big maul on amazon.


----------



## Brazos

dancan said:


> 8 lbs of Fiskars goodness .


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## Brazos

I drank the cool aid after reading all this and ordered the 8lb maul and then the next day ordered the X27. I have both in my possession as of tonight. I am anxious to try them out but then I remember what that means. Mother's Day weekend so it may be a couple weeks before I can get out to my woods and pile of oak ready to be split.


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## Brazos

Today I got to try out my new ISO 8lb maul and the X27 splitting axe. I was splitting oak I cut up several weeks ago that has been lying in the sun. Without question the ISO 8lb maul was the winner. Most of the time it would split the oak in 1-2 strikes. Some logs were more work for sure. The X27 seemed like a toy in comparison. Maybe when the wood seasons some more the X27 will work better.


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## Wowzer

If anyone has been on the fence about the Fiskar Maul in Canada, now is time to jump on the band wagon.

https://www.amazon.ca/Fiskars-Garde...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B014M9LQGG


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## Colt Marlington

BluntForgedEdge said:


> Speaking of Fiskers, do these count as "hand held tools?"


I have the small Fiskars axe with a saw in the handle and Gerber name on it. Not bad.


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## DSW

dancan said:


> 8 lbs of Fiskars goodness .



How does that one compare to the splitting axe?


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## Kennyman

2strokenut said:


> I still don't know id probably kill it to much plastic around the head what you all think


 -30°


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## Ronaldo

Go to Fiskars website, include a couple pics of the handle and they will send a new one to you. My brother and I have been using the X25 and X27 for years and we managed to break the handle on the 27 on a very similarly cold day on a nasty piece of Oak. They didn't ask any questions just sent a new axe.


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## Kennyman

Nice I'm definitely getting one of those


Ronaldo said:


> Go to Fiskars website, include a couple pics of the handle and they will send a new one to you. My brother and I have been using the X25 and X27 for years and we managed to break the handle on the 27 on a very similarly cold day on a nasty piece of Oak. They didn't ask any questions just sent a new axe.


Yep you're totally correct they replaced it no problem that cold weather tho I won't take it and use it cold again minnesota had some nasty cold weather this year -30 -40 some insane wind chills


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## DSW

I've had the splitter for years without any issue. 

I broke my Fiskars chopping axe when it was cold. I think the cold affects them and then a chopper sees more stress than a splitter.


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## Huskybill

How old is your fiskers?

I ask this because I just had all my plastic dead blow hammers from snap on crack into pieces. Now I’m wondering how long will the plastic last on my fiskers maul?
How good is there warranty?


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## Ronaldo

Huskybill said:


> How old is your fiskers?
> 
> I ask this because I just had all my plastic dead blow hammers from snap on crack into pieces. Now I’m wondering how long will the plastic last on my fiskers maul?
> How good is there warranty?


Lifetime warranty. Go to their website, send a picture of the broken product and they will get a replacement on the way.


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## cpttimerestraint

Just picked up the splitting axe for $25 and the x27 chopping and for $21 at Walmart based on the recommendations from this forum. They are amazing. A great improvement over my standard splitting maul and axe. 

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk


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## Ronaldo

cpttimerestraint said:


> Just picked up the splitting axe for $25 and the x27 chopping and for $21 at Walmart based on the recommendations from this forum. They are amazing. A great improvement over my standard splitting maul and axe.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk


Good prices for sure!

Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk


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## abs111999

I just got the 8 lb maul Fiskars. I was a little disappointed in the weight. Its heavy. It splits Lodgepole pretty good....Since I sell a little wood
I need a maul.. so its a good replacement for my failing Home Depot maul. But I might get the full size axe too...if it goes on sale.
I paid 50 for the maul delivered. If you deal with hardwood I could see that the Fiskars is needed...I would recommend someone try out the axe before they buy anything....maybe at a saw shop...


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## SuperDuty04

I just got the 36" fiskars splitting AXE and it splits better than any maul I've ever used.


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## Matt93eg

Brazos said:


> Today I got to try out my new ISO 8lb maul and the X27 splitting axe. I was splitting oak I cut up several weeks ago that has been lying in the sun. Without question the ISO 8lb maul was the winner. Most of the time it would split the oak in 1-2 strikes. Some logs were more work for sure. The X27 seemed like a toy in comparison. Maybe when the wood seasons some more the X27 will work better.




My experience is quite different than yours. I split a lot of oak that is green and the X27 kicks ass. It is a toy compared to the ISO and that is the beauty of it. Light weight and crazy effective. My dad has the ISO maul and we are not impressed with it over a standard 8# maul and I will take the X27 any day over a standard maul. We split some big red oak and white oak with the X27. We will work them down from the outside.


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## Huskybill

I purchased the dead blow hammers for me and my two sons. Funny they all cracked at the same time. All snap on dead blows. They won’t answer my emails for the warranty. 

With Fiskars Is there a expiration date when these will crack? I hate to be using it when the pieces go flying.


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## Cycledude

Go talk to your dealer in person


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## SuperDuty04

Huskybill said:


> I purchased the dead blow hammers for me and my two sons. Funny they all cracked at the same time. All snap on dead blows. They won’t answer my emails for the warranty.
> 
> With Fiskars Is there a expiration date when these will crack? I hate to be using it when the pieces go flying.


I’m really surprised they’re not responding to you as they are well know for good customer service. Have you checked your spam folder to see if their reply went there?


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## Cycledude

Huskybill said:


> I purchased the dead blow hammers for me and my two sons. Funny they all cracked at the same time. All snap on dead blows. They won’t answer my emails for the warranty.
> 
> With Fiskars Is there a expiration date when these will crack? I hate to be using it when the pieces go flying.



Maybe you could post some pictures here to show exactly what your talking about ?


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## Smacktooth

Curious how sharp y’all keep your fiskars splitting axes? It comes with a very sharp edge, which I have let get somewhat dull, with the thinking that a régular maul doesn’t need to be sharp to be effective, but curious if the splitting axe is different. I’ll probably sharpen it up again to see if it makes any difference, but curious what others experience has been.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Smacktooth

Huskybill said:


> I purchased the dead blow hammers for me and my two sons. Funny they all cracked at the same time. All snap on dead blows. They won’t answer my emails for the warranty.
> 
> With Fiskars Is there a expiration date when these will crack? I hate to be using it when the pieces go flying.



Sorry to hear they’re not responding. I had the plastic at the top of the handle on my isocore maul crack, took picture, did the Warrenty claim process on their website, and got a new one within a week. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Snap

Smacktooth said:


> Curious how sharp y’all keep your fiskars splitting axes? It comes with a very sharp edge, which I have let get somewhat dull, with the thinking that a régular maul doesn’t need to be sharp to be effective, but curious if the splitting axe is different. I’ll probably sharpen it up again to see if it makes any difference, but curious what others experience has been.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Keep mine sharp like it was when new. Figured there must be a reason they manufactured it that way.


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## Ol' Brian

OK, my Fiskars collection is up to 4 now. 

Got what I guess is the original "Splitting Axe", ('meh...too light...') the short X25 ('meh...better, but still too light'), the all black 5# Super Splitting Axe (impressed...Fiskars got it right as far as splitting, but the haft has a lot of biteback!), and just picked up a 8# Isocore maul yesterday.

Didn't swing the Isocore too much today, but it split every piece of the roughly dozen White Oak rounds I aimed it at in 2 swings or less, which surprised me. I'll have to swing it side by side with my old 8lb maul, which I'm a little fond of. But the lack of biteback through the handle was impressive...


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## Cycledude

I have a 8 pound Fiskars splitting maul , seems to be by far the best splitting maul I ever used !


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## Huskybill

How are the fishers holding up?

my best maul was a sears craftsman 6# maul. I removed the paint on the wedge and polished it.


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## Ol' Brian

Swung the Fiskars 8lb IsoCore maul today head to head with "Ol Reliable", my 8lb traditional splitting maul. The victims were 40+ inch Red Oak rounds, 16" long. I started out with Ol' Reliable at the stump, then went to the Fiskars to bust up 2 rounds, then switched back to the traditional for 2 rounds, and continued that rotation. That way the Fiskars was not always splitting the smaller round, and vice versa.

I started off with "Ol' Reliable", then the Fiskars. It was close competition. Both performed their intended duties well. It truly was close competition, but as I busted the big rounds up with the 2 mauls, a definite winner emerged...

Each time, the Fiskars just seemed to pop the rounds better. More one strike splits. Fewer swings needed to pop the rounds. The Fiskars never stuck itself in the wood, not once. Traditional maul would sometimes stick hard, using up energy to free it that could otherwise be used for swinging. The traditional maul would pop the rounds, but frequently would require a restrike to fully get through the strings. The Fiskars seemed to pop the rounds apart with more authority, and required fewer restrikes to tear the strings and fully separate the pieces. I guess it has to do with the geometry of the wedge curve.

But, it's not perfect, not invincible. Hard, knotty areas where the traditional maul just bounced off, the Fiskars just bounced off as well.

Like I said, it was close, but the Fiskars is just a little bit better, at least on this big Red Oak.


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## 3000 FPS

What to do with your Fiskars X27 when you break the handle. 
Super strong and can pound steel wedges for splitting.


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## Brushwacker

Ol' Brian said:


> Swung the Fiskars 8lb IsoCore maul today head to head with "Ol Reliable", my 8lb traditional splitting maul. The victims were 40+ inch Red Oak rounds, 16" long. I started out with Ol' Reliable at the stump, then went to the Fiskars to bust up 2 rounds, then switched back to the traditional for 2 rounds, and continued that rotation. That way the Fiskars was not always splitting the smaller round, and vice versa.
> 
> I started off with "Ol' Reliable", then the Fiskars. It was close competition. Both performed their intended duties well. It truly was close competition, but as I busted the big rounds up with the 2 mauls, a definite winner emerged...
> 
> Each time, the Fiskars just seemed to pop the rounds better. More one strike splits. Fewer swings needed to pop the rounds. The Fiskars never stuck itself in the wood, not once. Traditional maul would sometimes stick hard, using up energy to free it that could otherwise be used for swinging. The traditional maul would pop the rounds, but frequently would require a restrike to fully get through the strings. The Fiskars seemed to pop the rounds apart with more authority, and required fewer restrikes to tear the strings and fully separate the pieces. I guess it has to do with the geometry of the wedge curve.
> 
> But, it's not perfect, not invincible. Hard, knotty areas where the traditional maul just bounced off, the Fiskars just bounced off as well.
> 
> Like I said, it was close, but the Fiskars is just a little bit better, at least on this big Red Oak.


Sounds about right on with my experiences. I believe the handle absorbs shock a bit better also.


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## Section VIII

Still use my X27 that I bought back in 2012.


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## MontanaResident

Section VIII said:


> Still use my X27 that I bought back in 2012.



I didn't know how tough they were and bought 2 from Sears which included free shipping. This was when Sears was in malls and was about dead, gasping its final breath. They were $35 each. After using the first one for about 5 years I sold it for more then I paid. The second one still looks new. I don't use it as much as I once did, but still the best splitting axe I have ever used.


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## Goostoff

With all the hype I have read about this thing on here over the years I broke down last year and finally bought one. I gave it an honest try, and now it just hangs on a post in my basement. I bought a Stihl splitting maul and that is what goes to the woods with me now.


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