# Need help with a vermeer BC1500 auto feed problem.



## banddtreeservic

Hi My name is Dave and I am new to the site.I found this forum while searching online to try and solve a problem with my BC1500 that is just over a year old. The problem started yesterday. While chipping the autofeed stopped and the amber light began flashing as if the safety bar was pushed on. The bar had not been touched and I hit the green pushbutton to see if it would reset and it would not. Of course vermeer won't have the manual I ordered until a few more days. I started checking things myself and this is where I am at. I checked both proximity switches on the safety cutout bar with a ohmeter and they both are working, plus the green LED light is lit on the smartfeed module then goes out when you push the bar in. It returns green when you release it, so the circuit seems to be working. Next I checked the forward feed switch that is connected to the feed control bar and it ohms out also, and again the FWD bar LED light is also green when the bar is in feed position, then goes out when it is returned to center. The green push buttons are working because if you push either of them, the rollers begin to feed then stop when released.I checked the sensitivity switch and the main smart feed switch with a ohmeter and they both seem to ohm out in both positions as if the switches are working fine. I have 4.5 volts at the smartfeed switch on the instrument panel. Volts are at 14 as per the gauge. The feed rollers also reverse fine when the bar is pushed.I swapped the smartfeed module and resistor, and feed pressure sensor from another machine to try, but the problem still exists with the autofeed not working and the amber light flashing quickly.Without the manual I am about as far as I can go sice I have no schematics or parameters on the electrical system. Has anyone else had this problem, or does anyone have any ideas to try until my manual arrives? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## TRISTATEFORESTRYEQUIPMENT

banddtreeservic said:


> Hi My name is Dave and I am new to the site.I found this forum while searching online to try and solve a problem with my BC1500 that is just over a year old. The problem started yesterday. While chipping the autofeed stopped and the amber light began flashing as if the safety bar was pushed on. The bar had not been touched and I hit the green pushbutton to see if it would reset and it would not. Of course vermeer won't have the manual I ordered until a few more days. I started checking things myself and this is where I am at. I checked both proximity switches on the safety cutout bar with a ohmeter and they both are working, plus the green LED light is lit on the smartfeed module then goes out when you push the bar in. It returns green when you release it, so the circuit seems to be working. Next I checked the forward feed switch that is connected to the feed control bar and it ohms out also, and again the FWD bar LED light is also green when the bar is in feed position, then goes out when it is returned to center. The green push buttons are working because if you push either of them, the rollers begin to feed then stop when released.I checked the sensitivity switch and the main smart feed switch with a ohmeter and they both seem to ohm out in both positions as if the switches are working fine. I have 4.5 volts at the smartfeed switch on the instrument panel. Volts are at 14 as per the gauge. The feed rollers also reverse fine when the bar is pushed.I swapped the smartfeed module and resistor, and feed pressure sensor from another machine to try, but the problem still exists with the autofeed not working and the amber light flashing quickly.Without the manual I am about as far as I can go sice I have no schematics or parameters on the electrical system. Has anyone else had this problem, or does anyone have any ideas to try until my manual arrives? Any help is appreciated.
> 
> Thanks



sell the vermeer and buy a bandit.


----------



## VA-Sawyer

It sounds like you are doing a pretty good job of troubleshooting, considering you don't have the manual. The 4.5 volts seems a bit low as most DC sensor circuits today run at 5 V and that is normally held within about .1V of nominal. I don't have experience with that machine, but it appears as if a latching relay isn't holding. Are there any external relays for the system ?

Rick


----------



## banddtreeservic

I don't see any external relays. It looks as if the smart feed control box / module reads and controls everything. I was thinking maybe a problem in the wire harness, but don't have any schematics or parameters to go by at this moment. The wires are all covered in that tight mesh protective wrapping, so I can't physically see what connects to what inside the harness without cutting it or looking at a schematic. I am kind of stuck without the service manual, but was hoping maybe someone else has seen this problem or has an idea.

Thanks
Dave


----------



## Greent trees

I have had similar trouble with a 1400 and found that the lower feedbar sensors break as the bar wears out the bushings. Check them when in doubt disconnect them. It saves me hours chipping , maybe unsafe but it's not frustrating anymore. Put a jumper wire in each and see if it fixes the problem. Also my manual says that the light flashes fast when the lower bar gets touched The manuals aren't very helpful and mine never came with a wiring schematic Good luck


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?lu1y3s


----------



## Greent trees

I have had similar trouble with a 1400 and found that the lower feedbar sensors break as the bar wears out the bushings. Check them when in doubt disconnect them. It saves me hours chipping , maybe unsafe but it's not frustrating anymore. Put a jumper wire in each and see if it fixes the problem. Also my manual says that the light flashes fast when the lower bar gets touched The manuals aren't very helpful and mine never came with a wiring schematic Good luck


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?sqfns3


----------



## equipmentguru

The amber info light flashing fast means that one of the e-stop switches are activated. There is one on the feed control bar and two on the lower stop bar. It is probably one of those three switches.


----------



## Lanova_Cell

TRISTATEFORESTRYEQUIPMENT said:


> sell the vermeer and buy a bandit.



Save the brand rhetoric for the sales room.

To answer the original question with more accuracy:

1) If the e-stop ok LED on the smartfeed controller is lit then: THERE IS NO PROBLEM WITH ANY OF THE E-STOP SWITCHES AND/OR WIRING!

The way the e-stop system works is this: 

The controller sends power through the circuit to the normally closed switches on the feed table thigh bar and the top most switch on the directional control bar - if this circuit is complete (no switches tripped and/or faulty) then power is then received back @ the smartfeed controller at a different pin which tells the system that it is alright to feed. 

There are 2 switches on the thigh bar. 1 is the normal sensitivity switch and the other is the reduced sensitivity switch.
While running in the normal sensitivity mode the switch on the LH side of the feed table is used by the controller to complete the e-stop circuit
While running in the reduced sensitivity mode the switch on the RH side of the feed table is used and the normal sensitivity switch is excluded.
The upper directional bar e-stop switch is used @ all times in the circuit.

The only other reason for the unit to not feed when this E-stop system is operable (e-stop ok LED lit) is a faulty magnetic p/u on the engine clutch housing. This can be quickly determined by again looking @ the LED's on the smartfeed controller - there should be an LED marked TACH.
@ low engine RPM's it will be dull and @ high RPM's it wil be bright. - if it's not lit @ all then you will have to replace the magnetic RPM sensor.

The smartfeed system is based on engine RPM's - the controller will shut down the infeed rollers @ a specific cut out RPM (for example feed rollers will shut down @ 2100RPM and re-engage @ 2375RPM. This system prevents the engine from bogging down too much when chipping large diameter material.

I hope this points you in the right direction.

****For those of you who have a winch equipped BC1500 there is also a winch interlock switch which is included in the e-stop system, if the winch rope is not secured in the storage loop correctly, then the e-stop system will be triggered as well****


----------



## Castelan Chipper Repair

banddtreeservic said:


> Hi My name is Dave and I am new to the site.I found this forum while searching online to try and solve a problem with my BC1500 that is just over a year old. The problem started yesterday. While chipping the autofeed stopped and the amber light began flashing as if the safety bar was pushed on. The bar had not been touched and I hit the green pushbutton to see if it would reset and it would not. Of course vermeer won't have the manual I ordered until a few more days. I started checking things myself and this is where I am at. I checked both proximity switches on the safety cutout bar with a ohmeter and they both are working, plus the green LED light is lit on the smartfeed module then goes out when you push the bar in. It returns green when you release it, so the circuit seems to be working. Next I checked the forward feed switch that is connected to the feed control bar and it ohms out also, and again the FWD bar LED light is also green when the bar is in feed position, then goes out when it is returned to center. The green push buttons are working because if you push either of them, the rollers begin to feed then stop when released.I checked the sensitivity switch and the main smart feed switch with a ohmeter and they both seem to ohm out in both positions as if the switches are working fine. I have 4.5 volts at the smartfeed switch on the instrument panel. Volts are at 14 as per the gauge. The feed rollers also reverse fine when the bar is pushed.I swapped the smartfeed module and resistor, and feed pressure sensor from another machine to try, but the problem still exists with the autofeed not working and the amber light flashing quickly.Without the manual I am about as far as I can go sice I have no schematics or parameters on the electrical system. Has anyone else had this problem, or does anyone have any ideas to try until my manual arrives? Any help is appreciated.
> 
> Thanks


My name is Kevin. Check behind the control panel for 2 fuses in the wire loom, see if one of them is blown. I hope this helps.


----------



## stgeorgetreeguy

Lanova_Cell said:


> Save the brand rhetoric for the sales room.
> 
> To answer the original question with more accuracy:
> 
> 1) If the e-stop ok LED on the smartfeed controller is lit then: THERE IS NO PROBLEM WITH ANY OF THE E-STOP SWITCHES AND/OR WIRING!
> 
> The way the e-stop system works is this:
> 
> The controller sends power through the circuit to the normally closed switches on the feed table thigh bar and the top most switch on the directional control bar - if this circuit is complete (no switches tripped and/or faulty) then power is then received back @ the smartfeed controller at a different pin which tells the system that it is alright to feed.
> 
> There are 2 switches on the thigh bar. 1 is the normal sensitivity switch and the other is the reduced sensitivity switch.
> While running in the normal sensitivity mode the switch on the LH side of the feed table is used by the controller to complete the e-stop circuit
> While running in the reduced sensitivity mode the switch on the RH side of the feed table is used and the normal sensitivity switch is excluded.
> The upper directional bar e-stop switch is used @ all times in the circuit.
> 
> The only other reason for the unit to not feed when this E-stop system is operable (e-stop ok LED lit) is a faulty magnetic p/u on the engine clutch housing. This can be quickly determined by again looking @ the LED's on the smartfeed controller - there should be an LED marked TACH.
> @ low engine RPM's it will be dull and @ high RPM's it wil be bright. - if it's not lit @ all then you will have to replace the magnetic RPM sensor.
> 
> The smartfeed system is based on engine RPM's - the controller will shut down the infeed rollers @ a specific cut out RPM (for example feed rollers will shut down @ 2100RPM and re-engage @ 2375RPM. This system prevents the engine from bogging down too much when chipping large diameter material.
> 
> I hope this points you in the right direction.
> 
> ****For those of you who have a winch equipped BC1500 there is also a winch interlock switch which is included in the e-stop system, if the winch rope is not secured in the storage loop correctly, then the e-stop system will be triggered as well****


Thank you for the great answer... it gives me hopes..


----------



## stgeorgetreeguy

Lanova_Cell said:


> Save the brand rhetoric for the sales room.
> 
> To answer the original question with more accuracy:
> 
> 1) If the e-stop ok LED on the smartfeed controller is lit then: THERE IS NO PROBLEM WITH ANY OF THE E-STOP SWITCHES AND/OR WIRING!
> 
> The way the e-stop system works is this:
> 
> The controller sends power through the circuit to the normally closed switches on the feed table thigh bar and the top most switch on the directional control bar - if this circuit is complete (no switches tripped and/or faulty) then power is then received back @ the smartfeed controller at a different pin which tells the system that it is alright to feed.
> 
> There are 2 switches on the thigh bar. 1 is the normal sensitivity switch and the other is the reduced sensitivity switch.
> While running in the normal sensitivity mode the switch on the LH side of the feed table is used by the controller to complete the e-stop circuit
> While running in the reduced sensitivity mode the switch on the RH side of the feed table is used and the normal sensitivity switch is excluded.
> The upper directional bar e-stop switch is used @ all times in the circuit.
> 
> The only other reason for the unit to not feed when this E-stop system is operable (e-stop ok LED lit) is a faulty magnetic p/u on the engine clutch housing. This can be quickly determined by again looking @ the LED's on the smartfeed controller - there should be an LED marked TACH.
> @ low engine RPM's it will be dull and @ high RPM's it wil be bright. - if it's not lit @ all then you will have to replace the magnetic RPM sensor.
> 
> The smartfeed system is based on engine RPM's - the controller will shut down the infeed rollers @ a specific cut out RPM (for example feed rollers will shut down @ 2100RPM and re-engage @ 2375RPM. This system prevents the engine from bogging down too much when chipping large diameter material.
> 
> I hope this points you in the right direction.
> 
> ****For those of you who have a winch equipped BC1500 there is also a winch interlock switch which is included in the e-stop system, if the winch rope is not secured in the storage loop correctly, then the e-stop system will be triggered as well****


So this might seem like a dumb question but what does the smartfeed controller look like ? what light are you talking about for it? where is it located?


----------



## mrhemihead

stgeorgetreeguy said:


> So this might seem like a dumb question but what does the smartfeed controller look like ? what light are you talking about for it? where is it located?


The controller is a module mounted on the chipper control panel, behind the gauges. LEDs on the controller indicate various functions . The controller does more than control smart feed.


----------



## hermosaranch

Hi Mr. HemiHead. Picking back up on this thread. Great info above. The E-stop is OK and TACH is bright. The Amber Info Light starts out blinking fast which stops when I press the Green roller buttons. The Forward LED is on. But then, after a few chips, the Amber Info Light goes to slow blinking. I had this happen a few times when the feeder drum would jam. But I've cleared jams and we're now stuck in an endless loop of turn-off, turn-on, chip one/two/three times before the Amber light blinks slowly again, disabling forward feed.

We are in hills and CA oaks. So chipping is tough. But I usually level the machine out. I have seen the oil/water LED turn off when on a slant. But when we level out, this LED stays lit. The engine appears to be fine, high rpm. Tach never turns off.

We just bought it used. 2008. The Vermeer dealer out here isn't that great. Wondered if you had any recommendations.

Thank you.


----------



## mrhemihead

What model do you have there and which engine? 
Assuming there are no actual faults the controller can lock up if its not getting a clean source of power. My machine would do this occasionally until I replaced the alternator.


----------



## hermosaranch

2008 BC1000XL. I'm trying to find a single line diagram. Does it need 12VDC? The pink wire on the terminal block has been cut. And there's a clean band of wire insulation missing about three inches off the back of the block on the orange wire.


----------



## hermosaranch

I also worked on a slant, feed end on the high side. I noticed the oil / water led turned off. I then raised the front with some blocks, and then it turned back on. Wondering if the oil or water sensor wasn't making contact. Engine oil is clean and antifreeze is good. No leaks on the block and no smoke. Engine seems fine.


----------



## hermosaranch

3L Cummins desiel 990 hours. It looks and runs clean so far.


----------



## mrhemihead

hermosaranch said:


> 2008 BC1000XL. I'm trying to find a single line diagram. Does it need 12VDC? The pink wire on the terminal block has been cut. And there's a clean band of wire insulation missing about three inches off the back of the block on the orange wire.


Yes the controller needs battery voltage at pin J7-1 orange wire. Using a digital voltmeter measure there with the meter set to read *AC.* Should read just a few mv.
See attached. After you save a copy this will be deleted.
I have chipped on an incline without issues but if your oil/water LED is blinking intermittently you may have a sensor or wiring fault.


----------



## hermosaranch

Awesome. Thanks! I'll go measure now. We bought ours for our property. Renting was too stressful. Now we can chip at our own pace. But I need to work out these bugs that the seller was too cheap to fix. So is the story of buying used equipment online. We'll figure it out, and thanks to folks like you and others online!


----------



## mrhemihead

hermosaranch said:


> Awesome. Thanks! I'll go measure now. We bought ours for our property. Renting was too stressful. Now we can chip at our own pace. But I need to work out these bugs that the seller was too cheap to fix. So is the story of buying used equipment online. We'll figure it out, and thanks to folks like you and others online!


Had the same experience with rental machines.
My BC1000XL does not leave the property. I purchased on ebay from a seller nearby. It worked as it should except for the smartfeed. Fixed that then the alternator went south, then the drum bearings got noisy. Been OK since. Since its not on a paid job site I can repair at my leisure.


----------



## hermosaranch

So pink was cut and spliced to the ignition yellow. The orange had that insulation removed. I took mV there to ground. I show 26 to 27mV AC. Pink is for engine fuel. I guess this bypasses the smart feed to force the fuel pump. Wonder if there's something wrong with the smart feed that prevented the fuel pump from turning on.


----------



## mrhemihead

hermosaranch said:


> So pink was cut and spliced to the ignition yellow. The orange had that insulation removed. I took mV there to ground. I show 26 to 27mV AC. Pink is for engine fuel. I guess this bypasses the smart feed to force the fuel pump. Wonder if there's something wrong with the smart feed that prevented the fuel pump from turning on.





hermosaranch said:


> So pink was cut and spliced to the ignition yellow. The orange had that insulation removed. I took mV there to ground. I show 26 to 27mV AC. Pink is for engine fuel. I guess this bypasses the smart feed to force the fuel pump. Wonder if there's something wrong with the smart feed that prevented the fuel pump from turning on.


That voltage reading is good.

Hard to say why that was done, there may have been an issue with the controller.
If the *FUEL ON *LED is illuminated there should be 12V at J7-4.

I prefer to make things work as the mfg intended. Since you have the diagram if I was the owner of this machine I would reverse the modifications and then start the troubleshooting.


----------



## hermosaranch

mrhemihead said:


> I prefer to make things work as the mfg intended. Since you have the diagram if I was the owner of this machine I would reverse the modifications and then start the troubleshooting.


Agreed. That's the plan. The local Vermeer dealer isn't that helpful yet. I asked about a few mechanical parts. They said I should contact Vermeer to get a catalog, find the part, then ask them to order it. Dealer Value Add... hahaha

I'm also wondering if there's an issue with the hydro over-pressure switch. That's where I'm looking now. We have very irregular shaped logs in our area: CA Red Oak. I've heard a whine in the feeder similar to other hyrdo equipment I have when pressure builds and pressure relief opens. I'm wondering if something is sensitive or faulting in this area which then triggers the Amber Light slow blink with the slightest of input irregularity, like buckled logs, etc.

Thanks for the help MrHemi!


----------



## mrhemihead

hermosaranch said:


> Agreed. That's the plan. The local Vermeer dealer isn't that helpful yet. I asked about a few mechanical parts. They said I should contact Vermeer to get a catalog, find the part, then ask them to order it. Dealer Value Add... hahaha
> 
> I'm also wondering if there's an issue with the hydro over-pressure switch. That's where I'm looking now. We have very irregular shaped logs in our area: CA Red Oak. I've heard a whine in the feeder similar to other hyrdo equipment I have when pressure builds and pressure relief opens. I'm wondering if something is sensitive or faulting in this area which then triggers the Amber Light slow blink with the slightest of input irregularity, like buckled logs, etc.
> 
> Thanks for the help MrHemi!



Roger that about the dealer. I acquired the parts catalog but often times the pn are outdated. The dealer will be able to supply the current numbers.

There was no hydro over-pressure switch on my machine. Apparently an option, there is a cable there but no switch. The diagram shows not used ??
Look in the fuel filling compartment, if you see 2 valves (feed roller forward and reverse) the pressure switch was never installed.

BTW it appears the circuit breaker was deleted. I would insert a inline fuse or install the factory auto reset breaker.


----------



## hermosaranch

I've tried two times with the dealer to replace the knife blocks (under the knives in the drum). The dealer has sent me the wrong parts twice. Going back next week to try again. The blocks have changed since 2008, but the part number has not so it appears. I digress.

The issue (at least the primary one) is something to do with the Water / Oil sensors. When I start up in low rpm, everything checks OK. Then I go to high rpm. Still everything checks OK. Same cycle, Low to High while chipper engaged. Cycle several times. No changes, all systems check out. Then I feed a log or just a small branch. It chips, then the Oil / Water LED flickers, then the Amber Light slow blink starts. I've replicated this fault multiple times now. So, perhaps bad wires under vibration from chipping or load on the engine? After the material clears, the Oil / Water LED stops flickering. I may try to bypass these if possible with the schematic, just to see if I can chip normally before trying to fix.


----------



## hermosaranch

mrhemihead said:


> BTW it appears the circuit breaker was deleted. I would insert a inline fuse or install the factory auto reset breaker.



Same here. No CB. I do have inline fuses at 15A each as shown in the diagram. But you're suggesting the inline or CB 30A shown on top left. Might be a good idea.

Question: why test mV AC on the orange? Shouldn't that be 12VDC? Everything else is measuring 12 to 14VDC depending on running status (12.2 on key on, 14.2 when running).


----------



## mrhemihead

hermosaranch said:


> I've tried two times with the dealer to replace the knife blocks (under the knives in the drum). The dealer has sent me the wrong parts twice. Going back next week to try again. The blocks have changed since 2008, but the part number has not so it appears. I digress.
> 
> The issue (at least the primary one) is something to do with the Water / Oil sensors. When I start up in low rpm, everything checks OK. Then I go to high rpm. Still everything checks OK. Same cycle, Low to High while chipper engaged. Cycle several times. No changes, all systems check out. Then I feed a log or just a small branch. It chips, then the Oil / Water LED flickers, then the Amber Light slow blink starts. I've replicated this fault multiple times now. So, perhaps bad wires under vibration from chipping or load on the engine? After the material clears, the Oil / Water LED stops flickering. I may try to bypass these if possible with the schematic, just to see if I can chip normally before trying to fix.



Sounds like you isolated the fault. The blinking water/oil LED will cause the controller to flag a fault (blinking information light).
From the schematic its hard to tell if the sensors are normally open or closed, use an ohmmeter to determine that. Try temporarily unplugging one sensor at a time to determine which is faulty. Both are easy to access on the engine.
If this is caused by faulty wiring its easy enough to run a bypass wire from the controller to the engine.


----------



## hermosaranch

Hi Mr. Hemi Head.

Just wanted to follow-up on this thread with some semi-closure. Everything going forward on the current set of problems is solvable at least.

The issue is now confined to the water cooling system, but I'm not fully certain if it's a mechanical issue or an electrical issue. It could be electrical with either a faulty sensor and/or wiring. Or it may be mechanical like a thermostat, water pump, fan circulation, etc. Since the last post almost a month ago, the machine has sat as I was busy doing other things around the property. However, before giving this issue a pause, I noticed that a very small amount of coolant was leaking from the hose clamp where the hose attaches to the water pump. The clamp was loose! So I tightened it down. Fast forward to two days ago, the machine worked all day long, no faults. So I'm thinking that the water sensor was working and picking up on a slight pressure loss under load. This may have caused the SmartFeed to fault since having tightened the hose clamp, the water pressure would hold.

But naturally, the next day, I started getting faults again. I took a thorough look over the engine and saw no leaking water, no leaking oil. I've even tested oil pressure, and it's within spec at various loads and RPMs. What I noticed this time was that after starting the engine, bringing it up to full RPM, after a minute or so of just running, no load, the Oil/Water LED blinks once, quickly, not dim, and then the unit faults. So I just unplugged the water sensor. The feeder works as normal and there's no LED blink, etc.

So, I'm planning to replace the sensor, bypass the existing wire harness and wire it up directly to the SmartFeed unit. This should solve the electrical issue, if this is the problem.

Or I just wait and see if the water pump blows, or I may replace the thermostat if it's faulting and allowed to much pressure to build.

These are easy and cheap fixes.

Thanks again for your input.


----------



## mrhemihead

hermosaranch said:


> Hi Mr. Hemi Head.
> 
> Just wanted to follow-up on this thread with some semi-closure. Everything going forward on the current set of problems is solvable at least.
> 
> The issue is now confined to the water cooling system, but I'm not fully certain if it's a mechanical issue or an electrical issue. It could be electrical with either a faulty sensor and/or wiring. Or it may be mechanical like a thermostat, water pump, fan circulation, etc. Since the last post almost a month ago, the machine has sat as I was busy doing other things around the property. However, before giving this issue a pause, I noticed that a very small amount of coolant was leaking from the hose clamp where the hose attaches to the water pump. The clamp was loose! So I tightened it down. Fast forward to two days ago, the machine worked all day long, no faults. So I'm thinking that the water sensor was working and picking up on a slight pressure loss under load. This may have caused the SmartFeed to fault since having tightened the hose clamp, the water pressure would hold.
> 
> But naturally, the next day, I started getting faults again. I took a thorough look over the engine and saw no leaking water, no leaking oil. I've even tested oil pressure, and it's within spec at various loads and RPMs. What I noticed this time was that after starting the engine, bringing it up to full RPM, after a minute or so of just running, no load, the Oil/Water LED blinks once, quickly, not dim, and then the unit faults. So I just unplugged the water sensor. The feeder works as normal and there's no LED blink, etc.
> 
> So, I'm planning to replace the sensor, bypass the existing wire harness and wire it up directly to the SmartFeed unit. This should solve the electrical issue, if this is the problem.
> 
> Or I just wait and see if the water pump blows, or I may replace the thermostat if it's faulting and allowed to much pressure to build.
> 
> These are easy and cheap fixes.
> 
> Thanks again for your input.


*I just unplugged the water sensor. The feeder works as normal and there's no LED blink, etc. *
Thank you, often time there is no feedback which is not helpful to anyone.
This will be helpful for anyone searching the forum in the future.


----------



## mrhemihead

hermosaranch said:


> Same here. No CB. I do have inline fuses at 15A each as shown in the diagram. But you're suggesting the inline or CB 30A shown on top left. Might be a good idea.
> 
> Question: why test mV AC on the orange? Shouldn't that be 12VDC? Everything else is measuring 12 to 14VDC depending on running status (12.2 on key on, 14.2 when running).


Sorry I just realized there was no response to your question about measuring AC mv. If an alternator is faulty it can generate noise that controllers cannot tolerate. Only way to measure this, without an oscilloscope, is the AC function on a DVM.


----------



## desertdude11

Lanova_Cell said:


> Save the brand rhetoric for the sales room.
> 
> To answer the original question with more accuracy:
> 
> 1) If the e-stop ok LED on the smartfeed controller is lit then: THERE IS NO PROBLEM WITH ANY OF THE E-STOP SWITCHES AND/OR WIRING!
> 
> The way the e-stop system works is this:
> 
> The controller sends power through the circuit to the normally closed switches on the feed table thigh bar and the top most switch on the directional control bar - if this circuit is complete (no switches tripped and/or faulty) then power is then received back @ the smartfeed controller at a different pin which tells the system that it is alright to feed.
> 
> There are 2 switches on the thigh bar. 1 is the normal sensitivity switch and the other is the reduced sensitivity switch.
> While running in the normal sensitivity mode the switch on the LH side of the feed table is used by the controller to complete the e-stop circuit
> While running in the reduced sensitivity mode the switch on the RH side of the feed table is used and the normal sensitivity switch is excluded.
> The upper directional bar e-stop switch is used @ all times in the circuit.
> 
> The only other reason for the unit to not feed when this E-stop system is operable (e-stop ok LED lit) is a faulty magnetic p/u on the engine clutch housing. This can be quickly determined by again looking @ the LED's on the smartfeed controller - there should be an LED marked TACH.
> @ low engine RPM's it will be dull and @ high RPM's it wil be bright. - if it's not lit @ all then you will have to replace the magnetic RPM sensor.
> 
> The smartfeed system is based on engine RPM's - the controller will shut down the infeed rollers @ a specific cut out RPM (for example feed rollers will shut down @ 2100RPM and re-engage @ 2375RPM. This system prevents the engine from bogging down too much when chipping large diameter material.
> 
> I hope this points you in the right direction.
> 
> ****For those of you who have a winch equipped BC1500 there is also a winch interlock switch which is included in the e-stop system, if the winch rope is not secured in the storage loop correctly, then the e-stop system will be triggered as well****


I am having the same problem with my 2014 BC1500. 

I just bought it used with about 340 hours on it. Worked fine at the shop. Drove it 500 miles home and the feed wheels won't go forward. 

Before I spend a million dollars and untold hours of down time at the not-so-local dealershit, can anyone help me diagnose what may be happening by looking at the fault lights?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## mrhemihead

desertdude11 said:


> I am having the same problem with my 2014 BC1500.
> 
> I just bought it used with about 340 hours on it. Worked fine at the shop. Drove it 500 miles home and the feed wheels won't go forward.
> 
> Before I spend a million dollars and untold hours of down time at the not-so-local dealershit, can anyone help me diagnose what may be happening by looking at the fault lights?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Is the info light flashing with machine set to feed?


----------



## desertdude11

mrhemihead said:


> Is the info light flashing with machine set to feed?


I don't think it was flashing. 

I'll check again tomorrow and let you know.


----------

