# Japanese Flowering Cherry Tree 'Akebono' care



## alexia61307 (Apr 7, 2009)

My name is Anthony and I live in Victorville, California (Southern) I recently purchased online two Akebono cherry trees, one from 'Monrovia' nursery in California (shipped in 5 gallon pot, topped) and another from an east coast nursery (shipped bare root). I planted the potted cherry and potted the bare root cherry. The planted cherry has been getting what looks like burn spots mainly along tip of leaves and few tiny holes in middle. I tried wetting the leaves during afternoon but it just made more burn spots. I thought this was weird since it is only early spring and it gets pretty hot in my area during summer. And even more strange is the potted cherry is not getting the burn spots. The potted cherry is getting the same sun as the planted cherry but is in shade towards sundown. I am watering the planted cherry about every other day and now trying to water less. The leaves do look a little dry and hang down (I assumed the leaves are hanging because of big leaves with small stems) but the leaves are green and feel fine and internally moist when touched. I am not sure if I am over watering or not watering enough for a just been planted tree, 2 weeks ago. Can someone help?


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## DirtyDog (Apr 9, 2009)

I'm not a Pro landscaper per say, but generally all watering should be done first thing in the morning. Watering in the middle of the afternoon directly on the leaf will cause burning. Water burns when sun touches it because it heats up.

A freshly transplanted plant sometimes doesn't adapt very well and needs additional time or help. Did they give instructions on planting? Did they reccomend any chemical additives?
I would just stick to watering heavily during the morning at rootball and the leafs. Don't water leafs in the middle of the afternoon.
You can take a leaf that has damage off the tree and bring it to any local Landscape supplier and they will be able to properly assist you.


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## tree md (Apr 9, 2009)

DirtyDog is right, watering midday is the worst time to water (especially if the tree is in direct sunlight) and can cause young trees, shrubs, plants to burn up. Also is true that it is not uncommon for a little die back after transplantation if the roots were cut. We would usually prune shrubs back a little less than 1/3 after transplanting. However, the roots on the tree should have been in good shape if this tree came from the nursery. I like to set my water out in the shade the previous day before I water in the morning. The trees and plants like the water better if it is at ambient temperature.


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## DirtyDog (Apr 11, 2009)

tree md said:


> I like to set my water out in the shade the previous day before I water in the morning. The trees and plants like the water better if it is at ambient temperature.



For smaller newer plants under 3ft i would say this is a good idea, by the time the rootball soaks up the water, the ground has warmed the water it up ohh...15degrees or so. Most real rainy days are on the cooler side anyhow. Average ground water temp is no lower than 40*. the bottom of the rootball is prob at 50-55* at most. Not much difference there.

One thing i forgot to say, don't water at night. It will rot and create fungus if this is done regularly.


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## slinger (Apr 11, 2009)

You might try using a shade over the newly planted trees to help them adjust to full sun.


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## pdqdl (Apr 16, 2009)

DirtyDog said:


> I'm not a Pro landscaper per say, but generally all watering should be done first thing in the morning. Watering in the middle of the afternoon directly on the leaf will cause burning. Water burns when sun touches it because it heats up.
> 
> ....



I am not picking a fight here, but I think that is nonsense. I believe that is a popularized myth. I have never seen it.

I think the popular thought is that the sunlight is focused on the leaf, like burning ants. Unfortunately, that argument does not work. A typical water drop is only 1/2 a sphere. The focal point of that drop is well beyond the surface of the leaf, which is where absorption begins. 

A spherical droplet held away from the leaf surface by fine hairs at just the focal point of the drop...perhaps a possibility.

Think about it. The sun is blistering hot, and you are avoiding splashing through the sprinkle system because you are afraid of getting burned by water droplets?

Your skin is more sensitive to sunburn than the plants are, and you will only feel cooler where the water lands on your skin. It's called evaporative cooling. If there was any heat generation from focused sunlight, it would quickly evaporate the water and eliminate the problem.


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## arbadacarba (Apr 19, 2009)

pdqdl said:


> I am not picking a fight here, but I think that is nonsense. I believe that is a popularized myth. I have never seen it.
> 
> I think the popular thought is that the sunlight is focused on the leaf, like burning ants. Unfortunately, that argument does not work. A typical water drop is only 1/2 a sphere. The focal point of that drop is well beyond the surface of the leaf, which is where absorption begins.
> 
> ...



Actually, the main problem with watering during the day is the combination of heat and undissipated moisture encouraging fungal growth. Leaf scorch is a possibility, but fogger nozzles can eliminate much of the risk by decreasing droplet size and the possibility of refractive concentration. As to the first problem, good sources of information can be found in propagation texts as well as texts on rose growth etc.


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