# Help! Huskee 35 Ton log splitter - need parts, manual or identification



## Andy123 (Dec 29, 2017)

Hi
New to the site.
I have a Huskee 35 Ton Log splitter its from TSC (tractor supply company)
I believe the model number (TSC number is LS40-1222)

I need a pump for it but I cannot find the pump or parts for the Huskee
I don't have the manual for this splitter.
TSC cannot help me they refer me to there customer service 800 number.
customer service refers me to MTD
MTD needs an 11 digit model number starting with "24" or they cannot help.

most of the stickers on this are destroyed.
I think it says manufactured for TSC by specialty
its at least 10 yrs old
powered by an 11 hp Briggs and stratton I/C engine (vertical shaft)

The pump is Haldex 080102 1002211
I have had no luck chasing that down either.

What I need is any of the below info:
- A replacement haldex pump
- a rebuild kit or supplier of the pump
- info on who can rebuild this pump (it appears seized or EXTREMELY difficult to turn)
- a huskee manual for this splitter in PDF
- a huskee part number for the pump
- the huskee 11 digit model number beginning with 24

Any help appreciated!


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## triptester (Dec 29, 2017)

Any 16 gpm 2-stage log splitter pump will work with your 11 hp engine. The brand does not matter.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=log+splitter+pump.

They are not cost effective to rebuild.
Splitter manufacturers charge over $400 same pump you can buy online for under $150


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## Streblerm (Dec 30, 2017)

Your splitter was built by a company called Speeco which has since been purchased by Blount International (Oregon). Like triprester said, any 16gpm two stage pump will work. 

http://www.speeco.com/products.aspx?id=95&prod=357


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## Andy123 (Dec 31, 2017)

triptester said:


> Any 16 gpm 2-stage log splitter pump will work with your 11 hp engine. The brand does not matter.
> https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=log+splitter+pump.
> 
> They are not cost effective to rebuild.
> Splitter manufacturers charge over $400 same pump you can buy online for under $150


Hi trip tester.
Thank you so much for replying.
I realize there are all kinds of pumps I could put on there with modifications. I am hoping to get something that is just going to bolt in place without drilling new holes buying different fittings, lovejoy couplings etc.
Do you know if all 2 stage 16 gpm pumps have same flange dimensions, bolt circle, shaft length, shaft diameter, inlet and outlet threads etc? For example the link u sent in ebay..
Thanks again

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## Andy123 (Dec 31, 2017)

Streblerm said:


> Your splitter was built by a company called Speeco which has since been purchased by Blount International (Oregon). Like triprester said, any 16gpm two stage pump will work.
> 
> http://www.speeco.com/products.aspx?id=95&prod=357


Hi Streblerm,
Thank you for the info.
That splitter resembles mine however my engine is vertical shaft. Its quite a bit older. I am really just trying to get a bolt on replacement. The splitter is at my moms house so I just dont have the time to drive there and then start having to research fittings and modify the flange because its "almost" the same.
Do you think the dimensions are standard for a 16gpm 2 stage pump?
Do you think speeco will have an older manual for my splitter?
Thanks again!

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## Knobby57 (Dec 31, 2017)

The pump mounts are for the most part universal ..... that being said why do you think you “need” a pump?


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## Andy123 (Dec 31, 2017)

Hi.
Because the pump is basically seized.
I cannot for the life of me imagine how this would happen. With e pump connected to the engine I can barely turn engine over by pulling very hard on pull start. As soon as I removed pump it was eady and started right up. With all the hoses disconnected and the pump emptied I cannot rotate pump by hand. I would love to take it apart but it uses bolts with "star type heads" looks like inverse of torxs bolt.

Glad to know interface is universal.
I realize everything is sized for 16gpm flow /hp but do you think there is any benefit in going to next size up pump? For faster cycle time?
It may no longer be a 35 ton unit but I would rather have a faster ram at 20 ton..

Again, this is only something I would consider if an 18Gpm pump for example also used same flange/shaft etc..



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## farmer steve (Dec 31, 2017)

Andy123 said:


> Hi.
> Because the pump is basically seized.
> I cannot for the life of me imagine how this would happen. With e pump connected to the engine I can barely turn engine over by pulling very hard on pull start. As soon as I removed pump it was eady and started right up. With all the hoses disconnected and the pump emptied I cannot rotate pump by hand. I would love to take it apart but it uses bolts with "star type heads" looks like inverse of torxs bolt.
> 
> ...


Andy here is a link to a place i used to replace the pump on my splitter. i was pleased with the quick service.
http://www.daltonhydraulic.com/hydraulic-pumps/log-splitter-pumps


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## Knobby57 (Dec 31, 2017)

Adding a bigger pump won’t help much if you don’t have the motor to push it . You probably won’t be happy with the result . Get your self some torex sockets and pull that pump apart . They really are not all that complicated . If it’s rusted up you may have water in the fluid


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## Andy123 (Dec 31, 2017)

Knobby57 said:


> Adding a bigger pump won’t help much if you don’t have the motor to push it . You probably won’t be happy with the result . Get your self some torex sockets and pull that pump apart . They really are not all that complicated . If it’s rusted up you may have water in the fluid


Hi thank you for the advice also thank you for identifying what tool that is. The bizarre thing is that it was running fine and then just slowed down and stopped as if it seized up so regarding rust it was already running fine it's not like it had been sitting for 10 years also when I bought it a few years ago I replaced all the oil with new hydraulic oil I really want to pull it apart just because I don't understand how this could happen it's probably rebuildable but it's a haldex pump and I can't find somebody with a parts manual to order parts

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## Andy123 (Dec 31, 2017)

Knobby57 said:


> Adding a bigger pump won’t help much if you don’t have the motor to push it . You probably won’t be happy with the result . Get your self some torex sockets and pull that pump apart . They really are not all that complicated . If it’s rusted up you may have water in the fluid


Regarding the bigger pump I totally agree without the engine to push it you will lose performance but it might theoretically cycle faster it would of course not be a 35-ton unit anymore and it would probably not cycle as fast as a unit designed to run on a 22 GPM pump however I'm wondering if it would run a little bit faster. It's nice to have a 35 ton unit but to be honest with you I have another splitter with five horsepower maybe 20 ton I have never been able to stall it or have it stopped in a log without eventually getting through sure it will slow down to almost nothing but one second later and usually pops through. Anyway it looks like pump sizes go from 16 GPM to 22 GPM and it appears as though nothing in the 22 GPM range is a 4 bolt flange only two bolts which by the way seems counterintuitive I was really hoping I could find something like an 18 GPM pump

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## Knobby57 (Dec 31, 2017)

It will probably move a bit faster unloaded , but once in the Wood is where it will slow and have to kick into the slower stage easier . If you want speed change the cylinder . Pump size is matched to motor output for a reason . There is a good deal of math behind it . Also 18 gpm pump ... may be hard to find


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## Andy123 (Dec 31, 2017)

Knobby57 said:


> It will probably move a bit faster unloaded , but once in the Wood is where it will slow and have to kick into the slower stage easier . If you want speed change the cylinder . Pump size is matched to motor output for a reason . There is a good deal of math behind it . Also 18 gpm pump ... may be hard to find


agreed the 18 GPM pump may not even exist. My understanding is that as soon as the log is connected you're on the first stage anyway. The longest part about splitting to me seems to be the travel time unloaded. My concern would be that the valve sizing, hoses, fittings, etc would achieve choked flow and therefore raise pressure and not even allow second stage to utilized when unloaded

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## Andy123 (Jan 10, 2018)

I still can't identify this machine.


















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## kevin j (Jan 11, 2018)

in the haldex pumps the eight 11 13 and 16 all use the same shaft and mounting flange. They do have different ports. Once you jump to 22 and 28 it’s a larger I think it’s a B2 flange I don’t recall but it’s larger than the smaller frames. 
also force does not change with pump size. force is pressure times cylinder area. pump size more gives you faster speed but it also takes more horsepower.


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## Andy123 (Jan 11, 2018)

kevin j said:


> in the haldex pumps the eight 11 13 and 16 all use the same shaft and mounting flange. They do have different ports. Once you jump to 22 and 28 it’s a larger I think it’s a B2 flange I don’t recall but it’s larger than the smaller frames.
> also force does not change with pump size. force is pressure times cylinder area. pump size more gives you faster speed but it also takes more horsepower.


Thank you kevin
I agree force does not change with pump size. I was proposing the trade off of force for ram speed (only in free travel not when splitting). My theory is I have a 35 ton splitter and I need 20tons (because I have never stalled a 20ton splitter). If I am using 15 out of 35 tons of force than it doesnt slow down much when its splitting and still wouldnt slow down much if it was reduced to 20 tons by inefficiently pushing "too tall a gear" in a 22gpm pump. My hope however was it would return faster. This is the idea of a two stage pump to begin with. I am wondering if there is a limit to the delta of the two flows in a two stage and what we end up with is a happy compromise. 

More to the point.. I really need a manual, and a model number. Can you identify this splitter?
Thanks

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## outbackrider (Jan 12, 2018)

I did a little research for you. I believe your model/sku is : Huskee 35 Ton 11 HP Log Splitter (#21-53427)
I have the 12.5 hp 35 ton vertical engine and my # is 21-53613 my unit is about 8 years old.
My parts manual has my pump as a 16gpm Barnes part number HC390709 but I would just go to 
Surplus Center and match up the pump. As stated earlier, the 4 bolt pattern should be universal at 2".

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...s/16-GPM-2-Stage-Hydraulic-Pump-9-7503-16.axd


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## Andy123 (Jan 13, 2018)

Thank you outbackrider!
Any idea how I can find a manual?

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## Bigpee733 (Jan 27, 2020)

I have the same splitter. Your splitter is Ls401222. I can’t find any manuals for mine either. I’m working on it now, and I think I need a new pump also. Might pull the cylinder apart and see if I have a leak in there. It just won’t split big logs anymore.


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## MechanicMatt (Jan 27, 2020)

Get a gauge on there, probably a pressure issue. But thanks for restoring an old thread. Bunch of guys are gonna get “likes” for there comments that they made years ago. There is a handful of guys that know a ton about hydraulics. They’ll be along shortly to get your straightened out. But first get a gauge on there and you’ll see where you are losing pressure or simply not making any


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## kevin j (Jan 27, 2020)

if you get to the haldex or Barnes catalog pages online they will be dimensional drawings. The basic outline is the same it just gets longer as they make the gear sets wider. So if you measure the appropriate length of the different sections and port locations on your pump you’ll probably be able to match it up with the appropriate haldex pump. then you will know the displacement of the small gear set an a large gear set, and be able to figure out how much more you could turn with that engine


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## farmer steve (Jan 28, 2020)

Bigpee733 said:


> I have the same splitter. Your splitter is Ls401222. I can’t find any manuals for mine either. I’m working on it now, and I think I need a new pump also. Might pull the cylinder apart and see if I have a leak in there. It just won’t split big logs anymore.


Not sure if these will help but pretty close.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/static/sites/TSC/downloads/ProdContentPDFs/1083954_Man1.pdf
https://www.foards.com/pages/speeco-35-ton-log-splitter-parts-diagram-597479


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## CLlawson (Aug 6, 2020)

I am new here and have been doing a lot of reading just to verify what I believe to be the problem I am having. It's on a 35 ton Huskee log splitter. I believe the pump is crapping out but a couple things don't quite add up. At all points I have put my pressure guage I can only get a max pressure of 900 psi while trying to split wood. Ok, pump. No problem. Just cycling through to get air out of the lines I let the piston run all the way out to the end where the bottom of the wedge hits the weld on the base plate. Pressure guage shoots up to over (barely) 3000 psi. OK. Maybe not pump. This doesn't make any sense at all. If the pump is bad, it shouldn't ever make the 3000 psi, should it?


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## JeffHK454 (Aug 6, 2020)

CLlawson said:


> I am new here and have been doing a lot of reading just to verify what I believe to be the problem I am having. It's on a 35 ton Huskee log splitter. I believe the pump is crapping out but a couple things don't quite add up. At all points I have put my pressure guage I can only get a max pressure of 900 psi while trying to split wood. Ok, pump. No problem. Just cycling through to get air out of the lines I let the piston run all the way out to the end where the bottom of the wedge hits the weld on the base plate. Pressure guage shoots up to over (barely) 3000 psi. OK. Maybe not pump. This doesn't make any sense at all. If the pump is bad, it shouldn't ever make the 3000 psi, should it?


Does it split ok? What makes you think the pump is failing? 900psi on a 5” dia. piston is still a good amount of force.


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## CLlawson (Aug 6, 2020)

JeffHK454 said:


> Does it split ok? What makes you think the pump is failing? 900psi on a 5” dia. piston is still a good amount of force.


It does not split ok. That's the issue. Nothing sounds out of normal, and no leaks anywhere. It used to just melt even the worst of logs like butter. Now even on a nice straight grain Ash it's having some trouble. But why would it only make 900 psi while trying to split wood but make 3000 psi towards the end of the stroke? The only two things I haven't done are re-pack the cylinder AGAIN. Or terminate the pressure gauge out of the pump to completely isolate absolutely everything else.


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## JeffHK454 (Aug 6, 2020)

CLlawson said:


> It does not split ok. That's the issue. Nothing sounds out of normal, and no leaks anywhere. It used to just melt even the worst of logs like butter. Now even on a nice straight grain Ash it's having some trouble. But why would it only make 900 psi while trying to split wood but make 3000 psi towards the end of the stroke? The only two things I haven't done are re-pack the cylinder AGAIN. Or terminate the pressure gauge out of the pump to completely isolate absolutely everything else.


Could be piston seals passing fluid mid-stroke in a bad portion of the tube?


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## CLlawson (Aug 6, 2020)

JeffHK454 said:


> Could be piston seals passing fluid mid-stroke in a bad portion of the tube?


Honestly it's the only thing that makes any sense to me. But I'm far from any kind of hydraulic professional. Guess I will try and pack again and see what happens.


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## CLlawson (Aug 6, 2020)

JeffHK454 said:


> Could be piston seals passing fluid mid-stroke in a bad portion of the tube?
> I may have just answered my own question by typing this... Could the front seal prevent anything from leaking and showing a problem? You would think with that much pressure it would blow the seal.


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## JeffHK454 (Aug 6, 2020)

CLlawson said:


> Honestly it's the only thing that makes any sense to me. But I'm far from any kind of hydraulic professional. Guess I will try and pack again and see what happens.


 Look for bad chrome or a ballooned portion of the tube.


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## CLlawson (Aug 6, 2020)

JeffHK454 said:


> Look for bad chrome or a ballooned portion of the tube.


Will do. Ordering packings tomorrow. I will update when I'm done. Thanks y'all


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## CLlawson (Aug 19, 2020)

JeffHK454 said:


> Look for bad chrome or a ballooned portion of the tube.


To anyone that may be interested on what was actually wrong. Just like anything else, anything I have to fix isn't a normal fix.
The set screw that holds the piston cap to the head, had backed out enough that the cap was an approximate 1/2 inch gap between the two. Fortunately no bad seals, and no damage to the barrel or end cap. Tightened that back down and placed a new set screw and she's working like a champ.


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## JeffHK454 (Aug 19, 2020)

CLlawson said:


> To anyone that may be interested on what was actually wrong. Just like anything else, anything I have to fix isn't a normal fix.
> The set screw that holds the piston cap to the head, had backed out enough that the cap was an approximate 1/2 inch gap between the two. Fortunately no bad seals, and no damage to the barrel or end cap. Tightened that back down and placed a new set screw and she's working like a champ.


Not sure your and my terminologies are the same ...was the piston loose on the rod ...or the end-cap loose on the tube?
Ether way it could have been bad if it came apart under pressure .


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## CLlawson (Aug 19, 2020)

JeffHK454 said:


> Not sure your and my terminologies are the same ...was the piston loose on the rod ...or the end-cap loose on the tube?
> Ether way it could have been bad if it came apart under pressure .


Sorry. The piston I have the "plunger" end is a two piece. So the head came loose from the rod. But just the outer section of the two pieces. Wish I had taken pictures to post of it. You could see on the back wall of the tube where the set screw had backed out and was making contact but no damage to the tube thank goodness.


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## rancher2 (Aug 19, 2020)

CLlawson said:


> To anyone that may be interested on what was actually wrong. Just like anything else, anything I have to fix isn't a normal fix.
> The set screw that holds the piston cap to the head, had backed out enough that the cap was an approximate 1/2 inch gap between the two. Fortunately no bad seals, and no damage to the barrel or end cap. Tightened that back down and placed a new set screw and she's working like a champ.


Glad you found your problem. I had the same thing happen on a old bobcat that had one bucket tilt cylinder it would tilt the bucket until you had it full of dirt then it won't tilt. No leaks to the outside finally took the cylinder apart and found the two piece piston was coming apart like yours did. Put new seals in tight the screws back up and it was good to go.


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