# Acorns into oak trees



## Gologit (Feb 13, 2008)

The blue jays are doing a good job of getting baby oaks started around my place but they're a little haphazard as to placement.

I'd like to start some oaks out here. What's the best time to plant the acorns? Spring or fall?
Will the ones I picked up last fall be alright to plant or should I plant the ones that fall this autumn?

And about how deep? And does the pointed end or the cap go down? Special nutrients? Special tips and advice?

It's tough when blue jays know more than I do.  Bob


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## Gologit (Feb 14, 2008)

Aw, come on, people! 23 VIEWS AND NO ADVICE? Does this mean I have to leave my little reforestation and habitat renewal project to the haphazard tree placement of blue jays?
'Let's scale it down a little. Does the pointy end of the acorn go up or down? The blue jays ain't talking.  Bob


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## PA Plumber (Feb 14, 2008)

One of your views is from me.

I can't help you at all, except to say...

Yes, the acorn must be in/on/near the ground to sprout.

Nature "plants" them in the fall, so I'm thinking that might be a good time to give it a whirl.

Sorry the advice is quite poor.


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## LarryTheCableGuy (Feb 14, 2008)

_"...As noted above, acorns can be planted as soon as they are collected and stored acorns eventually deteriorate in quality. Early planted acorns have been shown to have better growth and survival than those planted later. If you are planting in a site without access to water (e.g., open space lands or large parcels), it is usually best to wait until the first fall rains wet the soil because it is much easier to prepare planting sites if the soil is moist.

You can plant earlier if you can pre-irrigate the planting site: water the planting site so that the soil is wetted to a depth of at least 1 foot. Let the soil dry for a few days after irrigation so that it isn't too wet to work.

Prepare the planting site by turning over the soil with a shovel to a depth of at least 10 inches. Break up any large clods to prepare a good seedbed. Select sound acorns for planting as discussed above. At each site, plant 3 to 4 acorns spaced about 6 to 8 inches apart. This will increase the chances of at least one successful seedling being present at the site, and will keep the seedlings from being overly crowded if more than one emerge. Plant acorns on their sides at a depth of about 2 inches. Deeper planting can decrease seedling emergence rates (especially in heavy soils), and shallower planting can increase the chances that the acorns may dry out or be eaten by mice or ground squirrels.

If possible, mulch each planting site after planting with an organic mulch to cover the planting site and an area extending out 3 to 4 feet to a depth of about 2-3 inches. Mulch will help to suppress weed growth around the young seedling and helps conserve soil moisture. As the mulch decays, it also provides a slow-release source of plant nutrients for the seedling. Waste wood chips from tree pruning are an ideal mulching material as long as the chips are not contaminated with soil or roots from diseased trees. You can often get a large load of waste wood chips free or for little cost from tree pruning services. ..."_

http://www.phytosphere.com/oakplanting/acorns.htm


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## kyle1! (Feb 15, 2008)

*I have done this.*

Make sure you float the seed so you start with good acorns. 

I took a 6x10ft plot and skim the top 2 inches of soil off of it with a shovel. Filled the plot with acorns (10-15 gallons worth), cover back up with the dirt and lightly pack it down for better soil to seed contact.

Mulch the area well and I used a soaker hose the first year for watering. Because I planted so many acorns I only had to weed the first year. After that the trees shaded out the weeds.

After five years the trees are 5-6 ft tall. I planted Bur and White Oak.

This also worked well for black walnut.

Brian


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## wdchuck (Feb 16, 2008)

kyle1! said:


> Make sure you float the seed so you start with good acorns.
> 
> I took a 6x10ft plot and skim the top 2 inches of soil off of it with a shovel. Filled the plot with acorns (10-15 gallons worth), cover back up with the dirt and lightly pack it down for better soil to seed contact.
> 
> ...



Do good seeds float?

I'm doing the same thing here, and have collected nuts from oak, hickory, walnut.


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## Gologit (Feb 16, 2008)

wdchuck said:


> Do good seeds float?
> 
> I'm doing the same thing here, and have collected nuts from oak, hickory, walnut.



That "float the seeds" thing has me puzzled, too. I've spent most of my life cutting trees down, not planting them, and I'm surprised at how much I don't know. I guess we'll have to drop a few acorns in a bucket of water and see what happens. Maybe one of the grandkids can make a science project out of it.


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## Crofter (Feb 16, 2008)

Different oaks may have different requirements but the red oak is the only one we have here. Good fresh acorns that have not been wormholed or dried out will sink in water. We used to have a Ministry nursery near here and have picked and sold some seed years ago and got some literature on propagation. The leaching process necessary to get sprouting takes down the level of tannic acid. I guess that is to delay sprouting till next spring. One method is to bury them about 6 inches deep or where the soil is good and damp in the fall and water them down occasionally. Too wet and they die from lack of oxygen. too shallow and they freeze or dry out. Not sure how necessary cold temperature is but guess that depends on the species. The squirrels do such a good job that I have them coming up all over in the garden and get all I want to transplant. I dont think they worry bout which end is up!


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## kyle1! (Feb 16, 2008)

*Stratification*

is the term. Seeds need a period of cold temp to break dormancy. I am in a cold region so this is not needed. As crofter said floating helps you remove the culls from your seed supply. The good seed sinks while the wormed, half fill etc seed floats. Floating works with walnuts also. I will have to take some pictures of my five year old plots.

Brian


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## Gologit (Feb 16, 2008)

*Acorns...Bob vs. the Blue Jays*

Thanks to all for the good information so far. Or weather here is mild in the winter. There might be a few days below freezing but not many.
We do have a tough clay soil and most new plantings...orchard trees etc., take a large amount of soil prep.
This fall I'll watch for the acorns to drop from the existing trees and procede with my little project.


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## Gologit (Feb 17, 2008)

TreeCo said:


> Usually if you can get a few acorns......you can get a lot!
> 
> If you don't want to do any transplanting try planting about eight to ten acorns about a foot apart in the area where you want the final tree. After a year or two pick the tree you want to keep and cut the others down.
> 
> Google 'Ed Gilman, University of Florida' for great info on how to train and prune young trees so they will grown into desirable mature trees without major structural defects.



No problem getting acorns...the road into my place from the county road, 2 miles, is lined with oaks.

I checked out Ed Gilman....very good information.


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## wdchuck (Feb 17, 2008)

Gologit said:


> Thanks to all for the good information so far. Or weather here is mild in the winter. There might be a few days below freezing but not many.
> We do have a tough clay soil and most new plantings...orchard trees etc., take a large amount of soil prep.
> This fall I'll watch for the acorns to drop from the existing trees and procede with my little project.



Yes, here to, and dealing with farmer chemical use over a long term, so even the weeds won't grow in some places.


TreeCo, thanks for the info.


This has been a beneficial thread for me, should have asked these questions here years ago


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## PB (Feb 19, 2008)

A little late but Kyle got everything I was going to say anyways.

I have done the same thing. Collected red oak acorns in the spring of 2002 and now have trees pushing 10 feet and probably hit 12 this year.

This is in NW PA with clay soil. Keep them damp, don't let them dry up.


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## J.Walker (Feb 19, 2008)

Oak Hill Country Club (golf course) in Rochester NY., got it's start with a Dentist who liked to grow acorns in containers in his backyard many years ago.
Don't limit yourself to Red Oaks, those Burr Oaks are easy to start growing too!


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## BryanH (Mar 10, 2008)

*Acorns*

No expert but since the Blue Jays are doing so well at planting them, why not use what they started. Find the seedlings and transplant to your desired location? I've done this the last few years and have had good results. I typically try to pick from areas that have lots of existing trees and the seedlings would likely get shaded out anyway. I mark the seedlings in the summer and dig them in the early fall and replant. I was told it's better to transplant in the fall as the trees are working on root growth once the leaves start to change. This gives them the winter to redevelop the roots. I protect them with tomato cages to prevent mowing, and critters eating the buds.


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## techdave (Mar 11, 2008)

*Hi Bob, which LiveOak are you in?*

The one in Sutter county or Santa Cruz county?

Looks like you could get Blue Oak to grow in either one. Its apretty cool tree.

There is a Califonia Oak Foundation (or society), has lots of good proapagation info.

californiaoaks.org

Which of the 18 native oaks do you have?


Dave, in canyon and coast live oak and engleman oak and scub oak rich jamul


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## chainsawaddict (Mar 14, 2008)

Maybe this is cheating, or not what you want to do, but I just bought oaks (1'-2') from our local Natural resource district for 75 cents each. I dont know if CA has programs like that. I would think that would be easier.


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