# Mcculloch CP125 reborn



## leeha (Nov 19, 2011)

I have had this saw for a few years and actually forgot about it.
I found it the other day and since the last SP125 resto went so
well i thought i would tackle this one and give it the same treatment.
Here are the before pic's.

Lee


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## leeha (Nov 19, 2011)

I got this thing all striped down and found that there
are several differences between the CP and SP125's,
Not only doe's the CP have a different Decomp assembly
which is similar to the 797 with a different lever, The lower 
anti vibe mount is different, The CP has one big reeed valve
instead of the two pedal set up. The stop switch is also very
different with a two wire system because the tank is mounted 
on rubber mounts. SP saws had a ground at the front AV mount.
and a single wire switch. Mufflers are also different. The CP 
shares the same muffler as a 797. Fan housings are also the thin
type as on a 797, The SP had the wide housings. Air filter covers
are different with the CP having a rear opening for more air intake.
This block looks to me like it was replaced at some time. The piston
still shows it's original part number 69301 which is standard bore 
thick ring. and the block has no paint anywhere.
When i first got this saw i remember trying to get it running but it
had a bad air leak. Now i know why. Look at the pic of the intake boot.
One big hole in that baby.
Got alot cleaned up and ready for the blast cabinet.

Lee


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## buzz sawyer (Nov 19, 2011)

Definitely a sign of CAD - Have a CP125 and forget about it. 

Shame about the intake boot but I've heard a Stihl 088 will work. Then again, I'm sure you have an extra one laying around. 

Looking forward to this one!


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## Brian13 (Nov 19, 2011)

Will be watching this one closely for pointers. The CP came in between the 797 and the SP125? Wonder if the porting is the same as the SP, or a little different.


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## Jacob J. (Nov 19, 2011)

Yeah the differences between the CP and the SP point to the evolution of that class of McCulloch saw between the 795 and the SP-125c (795-797-CP-SP.) The vented air filter covers were sought after by cutters here for all the 125s even after the CP was discontinued and the SP introduced. All the CP blocks have the steel sleeve as well like the 797 and the ribbed exhaust. Some of the CP blocks could be set-up for either DSP or a straight compression release. 

The best way to tell a CP saw from an SP saw is the round muffler. Mac didn't make the round muffler to fit the oval SP exhaust outlet. So if you see a saw that looks like an SP, but has the round muffler, then it has a CP or 797 block.


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## Jacob J. (Nov 19, 2011)

Brian13 said:


> Will be watching this one closely for pointers. The CP came in between the 797 and the SP125? Wonder if the porting is the same as the SP, or a little different.



The port timing is a little closer to the 797. The main difference is the exhaust port. The SP blocks have the large oval exhaust port, CPs have the bridged exhaust with the rectangular lip like the 797 block.


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## Brian13 (Nov 19, 2011)

Jacob J. said:


> The port timing is a little closer to the 797. The main difference is the exhaust port. The SP blocks have the large oval exhaust port, CPs have the bridged exhaust with the rectangular lip like the 797 block.



That makes sense. Havnt seen the SP block up close yet, to see the oval exhaust port to compare. Guess I will need to add a CP to the list as well.


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## ChainsawmanXX (Nov 19, 2011)

Wish I had so many 125's I forgot I had some  

Great project Lee! Always done a great job!


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## heimannm (Nov 19, 2011)

CP125 is definitely on my wish list as well. Just something about the old school muscle that makes it so desireable...

Keep up the good work Lee and keep us informed of the progress.

Mark


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## RandyMac (Nov 19, 2011)

The CP is a prize alright, better running than the SP, but bulkier than the 797.
I remember the first SP125C I had, I bought it in a hurry, needed a big saw and was too far from my saw depot.
I charged into the saw shop at Portola and asked the guy for a 125 with a 7 pin sprocket, 404 on a 60" bar. He stared at me like I was a Martian or a mental defective. He didn't have one, but made a few calls and had one in a couple hours. I ran 5 or 6 tanks through it, thought there was something wrong with it, it seemed, well, down on power. I took it to my regular guy, who just laughed said it was just fine, but not to expect the same level of power as the 797s I was used to. Anyway, the CP125 comes real close and won't foam the blood in your fingers.


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## Ambull (Nov 19, 2011)

That's awesome Lee!!! Having a CP125 under the bench and forgetting about it. Looks like you have the resto well under control.


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## blsnelling (Nov 19, 2011)

Lee, you might have to give your wife stories like this, but do you really expect us to believe you forgot you had a CP125? Well, with as many great saws as you have coming in, I guess it might be possible, lol.


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## Mr. Bow Saw (Nov 20, 2011)

Lee forgot about it .:eek2:  Well I know it will turn out real nice.

I got my first 125 four years ago and it is a CP.


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## leeha (Nov 20, 2011)

buzz sawyer said:


> Definitely a sign of CAD - Have a CP125 and forget about it.
> 
> Shame about the intake boot but I've heard a Stihl 088 will work. Then again, I'm sure you have an extra one laying around.
> 
> Looking forward to this one!



I do have a spare Boot Buzz. I had a feeling it was toast.



Jacob J. said:


> Yeah the differences between the CP and the SP point to the evolution of that class of McCulloch saw between the 795 and the SP-125c (795-797-CP-SP.) The vented air filter covers were sought after by cutters here for all the 125s even after the CP was discontinued and the SP introduced. All the CP blocks have the steel sleeve as well like the 797 and the ribbed exhaust. Some of the CP blocks could be set-up for either DSP or a straight compression release.
> 
> The best way to tell a CP saw from an SP saw is the round muffler. Mac didn't make the round muffler to fit the oval SP exhaust outlet. So if you see a saw that looks like an SP, but has the round muffler, then it has a CP or 797 block.



I knew i forgot something, The cast iron sleave
and exhast porting. Thanks Jacob.



blsnelling said:


> Lee, you might have to give your wife stories like this, but do you really expect us to believe you forgot you had a CP125? Well, with as many great saws as you have coming in, I guess it might be possible, lol.



Not a story Brad, It was hidding behind a few saws on a shelf
and got lost in there. I remember trying to get it running when
i got it but since then it's just been sitting.


Thanks guys. I will be on the phone tomorrow looking
for a few parts but everything looks pretty good.
Will try to get some bead blasting done today. The
fuel tank will be a pina to paint since is two tone.




Lee


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## leed3349 (Nov 20, 2011)

you do good work and the saws that i got to run where awesome have fun with this project lee


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## rwoods (Nov 20, 2011)

Jacob J. said:


> Yeah the differences between the CP and the SP point to the evolution of that class of McCulloch saw between the 795 and the SP-125c (795-797-CP-SP.) The vented air filter covers were sought after by cutters here for all the 125s even after the CP was discontinued and the SP introduced. All the CP blocks have the steel sleeve as well like the 797 and the ribbed exhaust. Some of the CP blocks could be set-up for either DSP or a straight compression release.
> 
> *The best way to tell a CP saw from an SP saw is the round muffler. Mac didn't make the round muffler to fit the oval SP exhaust outlet. So if you see a saw that looks like an SP, but has the round muffler, then it has a CP or 797 block*.



Best way is to pull the muffler and look at the port as 3 of my 4 125Cs had the muffler replaced with a round one. Ron


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## Jacob J. (Nov 20, 2011)

rwoods said:


> Best way is to pull the muffler and look at the port as 3 of my 4 125Cs had the muffler replaced with a round one. Ron



Do your round mufflers have the true SP exhaust mount or did someone just bolt them on? You can bolt the round muffler up but it doesn't exactly match the oval exhaust port.


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## rwoods (Nov 20, 2011)

Jacob J. said:


> Do your round mufflers have the true SP exhaust mount or did someone just bolt them on? You can bolt the round muffler up but it doesn't exactly match the oval exhaust port.



No, simply mis-replacements. I've never seen a round muffler that match the oval port. Ron


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## Jacob J. (Nov 20, 2011)

rwoods said:


> No, simply mis-replacements. I've never seen a round muffler that match the oval port. Ron



Yeah that's been my experience too. Several of the SP saws I've gotten had the round mufflers bolted up to them and there was exhaust leaking all around the mount. I looked and looked for years and never found in any literature where there was a round muffler manufactured for the SP block.


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## turtle561 (Nov 20, 2011)

sorry to hijack- but i a see a little muffler sidebar going and i have a 797 clutch problem. a pawl rivet was loose so i popped the spring to get at the back of the rivet and tightened it. that done, i found the whole hub was brazed together.
with the shoes in place, the groove for the spring is covered. i tried the spring in the groove ,uhooked, but but couldn''t even come close to streatching it enough.
is there a special mac tool to do this ?
echo has a tapered cone and sleeve they use,see pic. the taper is slight, no more than the thickness of the spring for this to work.
someone suggested putting the spring in the shoes, as shown, then streatching them over the side plate one by one ? imho- no way, that's why i'm here.





new hub and spring in shoes




shoes shimmed open to expose groove. unhooked there was over an inch gap between ends, i couldn't do it.





the echo tool-with removeable side plate




maybe there's a tool with fingers that fit in the scallops around the side plate, put hooked spring over them, then open the top to where the spring slides down into the groove ? like opening a tee-pee frame, eh?
just wondering if there is anything in your service manuals on this. i have been lucky unhooking things up 'til now.:msp_wink:


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## mdavlee (Nov 20, 2011)

Well that makes my search for a big mac more interesting. So the order of the strongest is a 797, cp125, then sp125? Then the kart saws thrown in also.


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## thomas72 (Nov 20, 2011)

This is a good. I did enjoy your SP125 thread. Shame we can not find those old McCulloch intake boot dies.


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## Brian13 (Nov 20, 2011)

Turtle561, getting ready to PM you so not to clutter the thread.


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## Jacob J. (Nov 20, 2011)

mdavlee said:


> Well that makes my search for a big mac more interesting. So the order of the strongest is a 797, cp125, then sp125? Then the kart saws thrown in also.



It depends on who you talk to. My old man was sold on the 797 for sure, and then after that the SP-125c. He said the chrome-bore 125s were stronger and could be turned up faster after getting worked over than the steel sleeve SP or CP saws. He had three of the kart saws as well and while he loved the power, they were high maintenance machines. He said you could count on breaking the recoil spring every third day and you'd blow a clutch every other week. He bought a whole case of clutches one time to last him on a six month job in bigger wood. 

It's been my experience than the 797 is the strongest out of the bunch but also vibrates the most. The vibrations can be mitigated to a point with some work to the piston, depending on which piston you use and by using the later clutch. 

The later crankshaft out of the SP-125c makes the smoothest running saw.


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## leeha (Nov 20, 2011)

turtle, The clutch is relatively easy to put together.
Put the shoes in the hub but not all the way in. Start 
the spring in one shoe and work the spring around
into all the shoes. Do this with the spring hooked. I
put a bolt in a vice and put clutch hub over it so you 
have something to help hold the clutch.I took me a bit 
to figure out how to do it, it's really simple and quick
once you've done one or two.



Lee


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## mdavlee (Nov 20, 2011)

Thanks JJ. I ran one of rwoods this past week and now I want one. I guess any of them would be fine I was just wondering about which was the strongest.


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## leeha (Nov 20, 2011)

Ok Guys, Back on track with the resto.
I got a bunch of beadblasting done. And was
also able to apply some primer and color.
Just got done with the final coat of color.
Things are looking great so far. Next i will have
to tape off the tank and paint the top black as
well as the filter cover.


Lee


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## CM76 (Nov 20, 2011)

Another great thread Lee. You produce some really fine work.
Raising the bar everyday!!!!

Looking forward to seeing this one completed.

Chris.


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## little possum (Nov 20, 2011)

I didnt wanna like it, but I have too. Nice work Lee


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## mdavlee (Nov 20, 2011)

Can't wait for the final assembled pictures and the video of it cutting.


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## leeha (Nov 20, 2011)

Thanks again guys, I'm really excited about this one 
as well. It's the only CP125 i have. It's very different 
than the normal SP125's.
Next will be painting the black. That will be a pita. Lots
of taping involved. But so far the yellow looks fabulous.
I'm really liking the epoxy primer.



Lee


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## mdavlee (Nov 20, 2011)

You do some awesome work. I've never painted anything like a saw so I wouldn't even attempt to do it on a saw that nice.


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## leeha (Nov 20, 2011)

mdavlee said:


> You do some awesome work. I've never painted anything like a saw so I wouldn't even attempt to do it on a saw that nice.



Thanks, But the saw really deserved a good resto.
Paint was tattered and she didn't run so it had to 
come appart. A few parts needed replacing so it 
always leads to a resto. At least for me it doe's.
The assembly is the best part. Watching it all come
together.



Lee


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## RiverRat2 (Nov 20, 2011)

leeha said:


> Thanks, But the saw really deserved a good resto.
> Paint was tattered and she didn't run so it had to
> come appart. A few parts needed replacing so it
> always leads to a resto. At least for me it doe's.
> ...



Schweeeeet!!!!! Its looking good Dude,,,

Just curious,,, what was keeping it from running??? oh yeah a rather large hole in the intake boot,,, Duhhhh????


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## turtle561 (Nov 20, 2011)

thanks brian, lee & jacob for your help on the spring. sorry for the sidetrack, i was cruisin' thru and saw the mac braintrust was hanging out.
nice paint lee. your work deserves the best material for the app. when we painted out board lower units it was blast, etch, epoxy prime, then catalyzed polyurethane, usually awl-grip. nice build, creamy finish. pricey for sure but worth it. 
you know you got it right when you want to lick it !
waitin' for the music.


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## leeha (Nov 20, 2011)

RiverRat2 said:


> Schweeeeet!!!!! Its looking good Dude,,,
> 
> Just curious,,, what was keeping it from running???



Thanks Buddy,
Wouldn't run with a big rip in the intake boot.




Lee


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## turtle561 (Nov 20, 2011)

success on the spring, it was easy like you said. used some c clamps to walk it around.


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## Tzed250 (Nov 21, 2011)

. 


One very famous CP125:

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/KvDpiUD3lJs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


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## RiverRat2 (Nov 21, 2011)

leeha said:


> Thanks Buddy,
> Wouldn't run with a big rip in the intake boot.
> 
> Lee



Yeah I re-read and saw the pic,,, my bad!!!

Yeah that would have an effect on it not running!!!!


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## apse (Nov 21, 2011)

Gorgeous work Lee!

I read alot about guys who are wannabe's and I have been in garages my whole life. VERY FEW are the guys who have TRUE skills and care in their work. This is always apparent in your stuff! Craftsmanship is rapidly becoming a lost art, as so many require immediate gratification, and seem to have the lack of patience required, it is nice to see that this affliction does not effect everyone...Congratulations on another job well done Lee! 

Brian and Tina


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## procarbine2k1 (Nov 21, 2011)

Nice work Lee.


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## procarbine2k1 (Nov 21, 2011)

Tzed250 said:


> .
> 
> 
> One very famous CP125:
> ...



One of my favorite scenes from that movie.


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## RandyMac (Nov 21, 2011)

procarbine2k1 said:


> One of my favorite scenes from that movie.



followed closely by looking through the gap in Lee Remick's jeans.


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## leeha (Nov 22, 2011)

Got the black paint on last night.
The tank was a bit of a pita. But
it looks great

Lee


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## RiverRat2 (Nov 22, 2011)

*+1*



leeha said:


> Got the black paint on last night.
> The tank was a bit of a pita. But
> it looks great
> 
> ...


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## mdavlee (Nov 22, 2011)

Looks great Lee.


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## Tzed250 (Nov 22, 2011)

Beautiful work Lee!!!!


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## mdavlee (Nov 22, 2011)

It looks a lot better on my computer than my phone. That black is super slick.


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## Brian13 (Nov 22, 2011)

Looks great, really liking the black!! I dont know if you have posted it before, but what are the paint color name/codes for the yellow and black?


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## leeha (Nov 22, 2011)

here ya go Brian.
Hope this helps. The paint is Napa's 
best single stage urathane. I believe
it's called crossfire. The formula is in
each pic. The yellow was a custom mix.

Lee


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## Brian13 (Nov 23, 2011)

Thank you Lee!!! Think I might give that a try on my next couple of projects.


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## leeha (Nov 24, 2011)

I got a little bit done this morning.
The short block is all together. But
i have run into a road block. The oil tank
is no good and i need to find a perfect 
tank to complete this project. Everywhere 
i have looked i have been coming up with
dead ends. I hate to ask but if anyone has 
a really nice tank for a CP125 that they are 
willing to sell, I would really appreciate it. 
I don't want it for free.
The second pic shows what it looks like.
The lower AV mount is totally different
than a 797 and SP125. The CP125 is all
by it self.

Thanks Lee


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## mdavlee (Nov 24, 2011)

Hate to hear you need a tank.:bang: Hopefully someone has one so you can finish this project.


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## Rounder (Nov 24, 2011)

Lee, is it an absolute that only a cp125 tank will work? Let me know, I will check with the saw shop on Saturday for ya - Sam - Happy Thanksgiving all


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## leeha (Nov 24, 2011)

mtsamloggit said:


> Lee, is it an absolute that only a cp125 tank will work? Let me know, I will check with the saw shop on Saturday for ya - Sam - Happy Thanksgiving all




Ya Sam, CP125 only. Part number 69661




Lee


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## Rounder (Nov 24, 2011)

leeha said:


> Ya Sam, CP125 only. Part number 69661
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks for the pn, I'll dig through some of their boxes. Looking for a couple odds and ends myself. Let you know by Saturday evening. Actually, I'll be driving past them tormorow, if they are open, I'll swing in.


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## leeha (Nov 24, 2011)

Thanks Sam



Lee


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## Jacob J. (Nov 24, 2011)

I'll look and see if I have a CP tank as well.


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## Dennis Cahoon (Nov 24, 2011)

Hey Lee, have you got the box of parts I sent you yet?


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## leeha (Nov 24, 2011)

Dennis Cahoon said:


> Hey Lee, have you got the box of parts I sent you yet?




Not yet Mr Cahoon.
Will let you know when they arrive.
Did you include the warranty tag with
the 101 motor.




Lee


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## Dennis Cahoon (Nov 25, 2011)

leeha said:


> Not yet Mr Cahoon.
> Will let you know when they arrive.
> Did you include the warranty tag with
> the 101 motor. Lee




Lee, don't forget there's a brand new oil tank in that package. Should work for one of the saws.......and......
.......Warranty for 101 engines.......30 seconds or out the door!......Hahahahahaha!


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## Rounder (Nov 26, 2011)

Stopped in the shop today, no dice on the tank. Hope one turns up.


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## NORMZILLA44 (Nov 26, 2011)

Was nice talking with you Lee, and I love your'e work


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## CM76 (Nov 26, 2011)

Hi Lee,

I also checked through my bits and pieces for the big Macs and only came up with the SP125 tanks. I am sure one will turn up soon enough though - best of luck!

Chris.


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## leeha (Nov 26, 2011)

Dennis Cahoon said:


> Lee, don't forget there's a brand new oil tank in that package. Should work for one of the saws.......and......
> .......Warranty for 101 engines.......30 seconds or out the door!......Hahahahahaha!




I got my fingers crossed Dennis. I know you told me it was for
an SP125 but maybe it's for a CP as they are very different.
I'm hoping monday the package will arrive.



Thanks Lee


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## Eccentric (Nov 27, 2011)

leeha said:


> I got a little bit done this morning.
> The short block is all together. But
> i have run into a road block. The oil tank
> is no good and i need to find a perfect
> ...





leeha said:


> Ya Sam, CP125 only. Part number 69661
> 
> Lee



Lee have you talked to Bryce? IIRC he had an NOS CP125 tank listed about a year ago. Maybe he still has one and just hasn't listed/relisted for a while.


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## leeha (Nov 27, 2011)

Eccentric said:


> Lee have you talked to Bryce? IIRC he had an NOS CP125 tank listed about a year ago. Maybe he still has one and just hasn't listed/relisted for a while.




I did Aaron, He's always the first i call
when needing parts. He treats me very well.


Lee


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## leeha (Nov 29, 2011)

YeEeEeEe HaAaAaA, 
Got a box in the mail today.
Many Thanks to Mr,Dennis Cahoon.  I got my 101AA
motor and a NOS Mcculloch oil tank that i thought was 
for a SP125 but it is the one i need for this CP125. So
now i can continue on with this saw. Then will be the 
101 project.



Lee


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## buzz sawyer (Nov 29, 2011)

leeha said:


> YeEeEeEe HaAaAaA,
> Got a box in the mail today.
> Many Thanks to Mr,Dennis Cahoon.  I got my 101AA
> motor and a NOS Mcculloch oil tank that i thought was
> ...



About time - so when this evening will you have it back together?


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## CM76 (Nov 29, 2011)

Good to hear that you got the parts you needed to complete this fine project.

The 101 project sounds great as well.

Regards,

Chris.


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## Brian13 (Nov 29, 2011)

Glad you got the oil tank without much trouble. Looking forward to seeing it finished:msp_thumbup:.


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## leeha (Nov 29, 2011)

buzz sawyer said:


> About time - so when this evening will you have it back together?



Not quite buzz. I must paint it so it matchs the rest
of the yellow. Got a few other things to do. But should
and hopefully be done by the weekend.

I was sweating bullits for a bit. Thought this tank
would be impossible to find. But i got very lucky
for once.



Lee


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## buzz sawyer (Nov 29, 2011)

leeha said:


> Not quite buzz. I must paint it so it matchs the rest
> of the yellow. Got a few other things to do. But should
> and hopefully be done by the weekend.
> 
> ...



Can't wait to see it (and hear it?) Lee. uttahere2:uttahere2:uttahere2:


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## Jacob J. (Nov 29, 2011)

leeha said:


> Not quite buzz. I must paint it so it matchs the rest
> of the yellow. Got a few other things to do. But should
> and hopefully be done by the weekend.
> 
> ...



Lee-

Good to hear you found a tank. I have an extra too if you ever run into this problem again.


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## leeha (Nov 29, 2011)

Jacob J. said:


> Lee-
> 
> Good to hear you found a tank. I have an extra too if you ever run into this problem again.




Thanks Jacob,
With this being the only CP i have, I hope i 
don't ever need another. But i will keep it in
mind. They seem to be a hard item to find,
Just like the CP saw it self. You never see them
for sale. Very short production run.



Lee


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## blsnelling (Nov 29, 2011)

Glad you found a tank Lee!


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## leeha (Nov 30, 2011)

blsnelling said:


> Glad you found a tank Lee!




Thanks Brad,
The weather is crappy today, but i hope
to get the oil tank painted so i can assemble 
the saw. Then i will start on the 101 project.




Lee


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## RiverRat2 (Nov 30, 2011)

*+ 1*



leeha said:


> YeEeEeEe HaAaAaA,
> Got a box in the mail today.
> Many Thanks to Mr,Dennis Cahoon.  I got my 101AA
> motor and a NOS Mcculloch oil tank that i thought was
> ...



He's tha man!!!!


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## cbfarmall (Nov 30, 2011)

I guess I got lucky with this one. Picked it up a couple years ago. These have an awesome exhaust cackle at idle when you close the decomp.

Chris B.


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## leeha (Nov 30, 2011)

Sweet saw Chris,
The same color combo i'm going with.
Mine looks to have never been tampered
with so it will look like yours.

I'm applying paint tonight to the oil tank
and a bunch of other Mac parts.



Lee


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## cbfarmall (Nov 30, 2011)

You find decals for this thing, or will that come later? 

I love how original mine is. This particular CP came with a McCulloch kit to convert to the SP frame. Has the lower bracket, oil tank, AV mount and clamp, bolts, gaskets, and instructions. I have another, more used CP converted to SP handles.

Chris B.


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## cpr (Nov 30, 2011)

Maybe I never noticed before, but what's the difference between a CP-125 and a CP-125 S like yours is labelled Chris?


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## leeha (Nov 30, 2011)

Charles, Whats the part number of the kit you have.
Thats very interesting.
I have to contact SCsupply for decals. He said no
proble just have to send a pic.





Lee


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## cpr (Nov 30, 2011)

Haven't got one, Lee. Just noticed the "S" on Chris' CP...


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## cutforfun (Nov 30, 2011)

leeha said:


> Charles, Whats the part number of the kit you have.
> Thats very interesting.
> I have to contact SCsupply for decals. He said no
> proble just have to send a pic.
> ...



do they reproduce the decals or is it nos, i would love to have one for my cp125


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## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 1, 2011)

That's a good question, I have alway's been curious on the decal end myself?


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## leeha (Dec 1, 2011)

I don't believe anyone is making the decals yet.
I have to call SCSupply and have Joe make them.
Just got to send him a good pic.




Lee


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## TheRickster (Dec 1, 2011)

cbfarmall said:


> I guess I got lucky with this one. Picked it up a couple years ago. These have an awesome exhaust cackle at idle when you close the decomp.
> 
> Chris B.



That saw lnooks familiar. The "S" far as could tell had the thin ring piston. That saw was a very low time saw but unfortunately was stored with the rear of the saw in the sunlight and faded it. The conversion kit to SP was the only one I ever saw.

Rick


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## cbfarmall (Dec 1, 2011)

TheRickster said:


> That saw lnooks familiar. The "S" far as could tell had the thin ring piston. That saw was a very low time saw but unfortunately was stored with the rear of the saw in the sunlight and faded it. The conversion kit to SP was the only one I ever saw.
> 
> Rick



Couldn't remember who I got it from. I still have the handle kit in the original bag. Still is a low hour saw and the faded isn't at all bothersome. 

Chris B.


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## little possum (Dec 1, 2011)

If the faded ol Mac gets to be too much to handle, Ill send ya my address, it would look fine with my other misfits


----------



## Brian13 (Dec 2, 2011)

Look what I found. McCulloch CP125 Chainsaw Oil Tank | eBay. There is also the bottom handle brace on ebay as well. If you wouldnt have already found one, this one would not have come up LOL.


----------



## leeha (Dec 2, 2011)

I was able to get a little assembling done
last night. It's starting to come together
and should be mostly done tonight.

Lee


----------



## RiverRat2 (Dec 2, 2011)

Only one word comes to mind Lee,,,,

Wow!!!!



little possum said:


> If the faded ol Mac gets to be too much to handle, Ill send ya my address, it would look fine with my other misfits



Ya right,,, Dream on Teen King!!!!!!!!
get in line dude,,,,


----------



## leeha (Dec 2, 2011)

Brian13 said:


> Look what I found. McCulloch CP125 Chainsaw Oil Tank | eBay. There is also the bottom handle brace on ebay as well. If you wouldnt have already found one, this one would not have come up LOL.



Bought them both Brian, 
I had asked ole axeman if he had a tank
and he wasn't sure but would look when 
he returned to home. This was just over
a week ago. He sent me an email saying 
he just listed them. Good spares for the 
next one.



Lee


----------



## TheRickster (Dec 2, 2011)

Looks real nice Lee.. IF you ever want to duplicate the original textured Black rather than the glossy, Duplicolor Bed Liner in a rattle can is a perfect match in both finish and texture..

Rick


----------



## leeha (Dec 2, 2011)

TheRickster said:


> Looks real nice Lee.. IF you ever want to duplicate the original textured Black rather than the glossy, Duplicolor Bed Liner in a rattle can is a perfect match in both finish and texture..
> 
> Rick




I will keep that in mind Rick,
How is it with gas?



Lee


----------



## TheRickster (Dec 2, 2011)

My tank leaks on mine and so far the paint has not blistered or lifted.


----------



## Dennis Cahoon (Dec 2, 2011)

leeha said:


> Bought them both Brian, Good spares for the
> next one. Lee



Lee, don't get silly on ebay. I went to the barn yesterday and found a ton of Mac stuff I forgot I had. At least 3 CP oil tanks for sure. Gas tanks, chain side plates, handle bars, you name it. Plus that old 797, and the 770 Remington........Yeeeeha!


----------



## buzz sawyer (Dec 2, 2011)

leeha said:


> I was able to get a little assembling done
> last night. It's starting to come together
> and should be mostly done tonight.
> 
> Lee



Lookin real sweet Lee. Deserves a quote with photos.


----------



## buzz sawyer (Dec 2, 2011)

TheRickster said:


> Looks real nice Lee.. IF you ever want to duplicate the original textured Black rather than the glossy, Duplicolor Bed Liner in a rattle can is a perfect match in both finish and texture..
> 
> Rick



Thanks for the tip. How does it hold up to fuel? OK after it cures?


----------



## watsonr (Dec 2, 2011)

Saw is looking good Lee!! Can't wait to see the video of it cutting a big slab.


----------



## TheRickster (Dec 2, 2011)

buzz sawyer said:


> Thanks for the tip. How does it hold up to fuel? OK after it cures?



Mine has been on my flywheel cover for about 2 years now. IF I fill the tank above 1/2 it leaks out the seam and drips on the flywheel cover. Wipes right off with sign of black coming off and no blister or lifting..

Rick


----------



## Ambull (Dec 2, 2011)

buzz sawyer said:


> Thanks for the tip. How does it hold up to fuel? OK after it cures?



I used that bedliner stuff on my 125C restoration and I didn't have any problems. It doesn't hold up all that well in a truck bed though..... and don't ask me how I know......

Lee the resto looks great.


----------



## rwoods (Dec 2, 2011)

Looks great. Ron


----------



## 7oaks (Dec 3, 2011)

Lee...

Top notch work again. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.


----------



## leeha (Dec 3, 2011)

Thanks again guys for all the nice comments.
Tonight i worked on the ole girl and she is looking
really nice. I have to do the carb then get decals.
I'm searching for a couple small items to finish
it off but it should be running tomorrow.

Lee


----------



## cpr (Dec 3, 2011)

That metal trash screen looks so much better than the plastic ones. Great job.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 3, 2011)

leeha said:


> Thanks again guys for all the nice comments.
> Tonight i worked on the ole girl and she is looking
> really nice. I have to do the carb then get decals.
> I'm searching for a couple small items to finish
> ...


 Outstanding That thing is beautiful.


----------



## Justsaws (Dec 4, 2011)

Excellent indeed.


----------



## leeha (Dec 4, 2011)

Well i got this big ole bad boy fired up this morning.
Had to richen up the carb from 1 1/4 out on the screws.
Which i thought was kinda weird. But i was able to adjust
it so she was sounding pretty good, idle and all. Then i
filled the oil tank. Fired it off again and WOW we have smoke.
Holy chit we had smoke, 30 seconds of run time and i couldn't
find my way out of the garage. HHMMM someting not right.
I emptied the oil tank and pulled it off. All gaskets looked good,
I clean the stuffer and it had a bit of corrosion which i thought 
would be ok, Well weren't i WRONG. One tiny pin hole. No
wonder i had to adjust the carb rich. So upstairs i went and thank
god for spare parts. Now to put it back together with another stuffer.


Lee


----------



## watsonr (Dec 4, 2011)

She looks good Lee. Where did you find that sick looking bucking spike and how do you keep from getting the new yellow paint dirty with finger prints....wearing white gloves? Looking forward to see it run!


----------



## Urbicide (Dec 4, 2011)

Lee, you may want to hang on to that old stuffer plate for times when the skeeters get to be real bad. 

BTW, the saw looks great!


----------



## Gologit (Dec 4, 2011)

Fine job, Lee. You guys are keeping the old iron alive and that's a great thing. LOL...still makes my right shoulder sore just looking at it though.:smile2:


----------



## Dennis Cahoon (Dec 4, 2011)

Gologit said:


> Fine job, Lee. You guys are keeping the old iron alive and that's a great thing. LOL...still makes my right shoulder sore just looking at it though.:smile2:



That's not a 797 Gologit!......this saw should make you left shoulder more sore......Hahahahahahaha!


----------



## leeha (Dec 4, 2011)

Here she is up and cutting. Got the other stuffer
installed and seems to run pretty good. The chain
is a bit grabby in this wood. Not sure why it was 
a new chain not long ago and never been sharpened.
Same B+C as on the SP125 i just did. Also running
an 8 pin spur. It's still a tad fat but it ran ok. Need 
more time on it to get the rings to seat. I might recheck
the points to see if they closed up at all.

Lee


----------



## RiverRat2 (Dec 4, 2011)

leeha said:


> Thanks again guys for all the nice comments.
> Tonight i worked on the ole girl and she is looking
> really nice. I have to do the carb then get decals.
> I'm searching for a couple small items to finish
> ...



Man,,,, Lee that things so slick


That is awesome.... nice work,,,,


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 4, 2011)

I agree awesome. Big wood too nice!


----------



## mdavlee (Dec 4, 2011)

Sounds good Lee. I'm glad you found the rest of the parts to put it together so we could see a video


----------



## Jacob J. (Dec 4, 2011)

Good work Lee, that one sounds real good with the classic round muffler.


----------



## rwoods (Dec 4, 2011)

Great job as usual. :msp_thumbup: And as usual, I want to have at least one saw that looks that good but I can't even handle a paint by numbers watercolor. Thanks for sharing, Lee. Ron


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 4, 2011)

Sounds and looks real good Lee. Another nice addition to the family.


----------



## leeha (Dec 4, 2011)

Thanks alot guys.
Still need to find a thing or two for it.
But it's very close to being completed.




Lee


----------



## Dennis Cahoon (Dec 4, 2011)

That baby's still way tight!......run a few more tanks through it, then lean'er down!


----------



## Brian13 (Dec 5, 2011)

Looks great!!! The paint really looks good.


----------



## wendell (Dec 5, 2011)

RandyMac said:


> followed closely by looking through the gap in Lee Remick's jeans.



Dang, I missed that part. Guess I need to watch it again. :hmm3grin2orange:



Awesome job, Lee. Thanks for sharing!!


----------



## leeha (Dec 11, 2011)

Well, Back to the drawing board.
After i shot the video's i really wasn't impressed with this
saw. So last sunday i did some more cuts making some
different carb adjustments. At one point the muffler turned
red. Oh no, So i shut her down. Brought it in the shop. I 
then pull the pull rope and it didn't sound good. I then pulled
the muffler and noticed very light scratches on the intake
side. So now what. I knew it just didn't seem to have the guts
like all the other 123cc Mac's i have run. So i tore it down. The 
piston was on the verge of scuffing. But on the intake side only.
It had light scratches and the cylinder was fine. I cleaned the piston 
with a scotch bright pad and gave the cylinder a light hone. Looked 
everything over, measured the piston and cylinder. .004 to .0045 clearance. 
Should be fine. Checked the one big reed, seals, gaskets and so on.
Didn't find anything that would have caused this to happen. So i
reassembled the saw very carefully and checked everything again.
Points set at .020. I got it running last night and on the floor it
sounds great. Idles nice, rev's up nice. I put it in wood today and made
quite a few cuts and have determined that this CP125 is the most
gutless 123cc Mac i have ever run. Something is very wrong. Almost
like the timing is off. 
Will keep you all posted when i get time to dig into it again but for
now i'm burned out on this saw. need to let it sit for awhile.



Lee


----------



## Ambull (Dec 11, 2011)

I feel for you Lee. I know how frustrating it can be when you put all that time into a saw and it still doesn't run right. I had a 795 that just never seemed to run right, and eventually I found a tiny little crack in the fuel line on the tank side. I had to put that saw down for awhile as well. Usually the best pick-me-ups are the large Homelites. 1050, 2100 etc. 90% of them just need fuel lines and a HL carb kit. Builds the self esteem a little, lol.

From reading this board, most of the people "who know" say that the CP125 runs stronger than the SP125. If that is true, something must be wrong. Perhaps it is the timing. I am not sure how compatible the flywheels are, but maybe it has the wrong flywheel on it. If the timing was really late, it might do the things that you are experiencing. Are you using the points or a chip?


----------



## Dennis Cahoon (Dec 11, 2011)

Maybe you should buy those 4 boxes of 125 parts the Saw King has for sale Lee.

On second thought, if he selling those parts......they're Junk!.......Hahahahahahaha!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-McCulloch...612180722?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item1e6917b6f2


----------



## Eccentric (Dec 11, 2011)

My guess is that there's a casting flaw (such as a porus casting) or crack somewhere that's creating an air leak. Check the block (of course), intake manifold, crankcase stuffer, and crancase cover (flywheel side) Maybe a small crack or imperfection at one of the crank seal bores. Who knows.....


----------



## rwoods (Dec 11, 2011)

What a bummer, Lee. Everything I would know you already know times 25. If the timing is late as suggested by Ambull maybe it has a standard 101 flywheel instead of the 5 degree advance flywheel that the 125s run. Hope you figure it out. Ron


----------



## cpr (Dec 11, 2011)

5 deg. advance flywheels suck. More on that later, elsewhere...


----------



## leeha (Dec 11, 2011)

rwoods said:


> What a bummer, Lee. Everything I would know you already know times 25. If the timing is late as suggested by Ambull maybe it has a standard 101 flywheel instead of the 5 degree advance flywheel that the 125s run. Hope you figure it out. Ron




I always have thought the 5 degree flywheels were standard on kart motors.
And saws had just the standard flywheel.



cpr said:


> 5 deg. advance flywheels suck. More on that later, elsewhere...



Clue me in Charles.



Lee


----------



## StihlyinEly (Dec 11, 2011)

Lee, I have no doubt you'll figure it out. When it comes to AS, you are the 1 percent! And I mean that in the best possible way. And I'll tell you, that saw is lookin better than I'm sure it did coming off the shelf all those years ago. You, sir, are an artist!


----------



## cpr (Dec 11, 2011)

leeha said:


> I always have thought the 5 degree flywheels were standard on kart motors.
> And saws had just the standard flywheel.
> 
> 
> ...



Trying the new 125c this afternoon and I think it has the advanced flywheel because it kicked the starter and tore my hand off FOUR times! Still hurts.


----------



## leeha (Dec 11, 2011)

cpr said:


> Trying the new 125c this afternoon and I think it has the advanced flywheel because it kicked the starter and tore my hand off FOUR times! Still hurts.



Are you running points or a module chippy thingy.

I'm running points in mine.



Lee


----------



## cpr (Dec 11, 2011)

You know I haven't had the flywheel cover off yet to check, lol. When it came I looked at the cylinder, checked compression, fired it on a prime, and then it sat until today. I'm going to the shop later to look things over.


----------



## leeha (Dec 11, 2011)

cpr said:


> You know I haven't had the flywheel cover off yet to check, lol. When it came I looked at the cylinder, checked compression, fired it on a prime, and then it sat until today. I'm going to the shop later to look things over.




I have a 790 i bought a few years back and it did what yours is doing.
That saw would literally rip your fingers off. I investigated and found 
it had one of thems chippy things in it. I took it out and redid the points
and all is good. Nice running and easy starting saw now.

This CP125 isn't doing any of that. It starts nice, Using the decomp of coarse.
And runs great on the floor. It will idle all day, rev up nice. Everything you
would expect. It just has no power and has a ton of compression.



Lee


----------



## cpr (Dec 11, 2011)

Any chance the reeds are weak and losing charge as spitback? Might also explain the intake side scoring? Just thinkin' out loud...


----------



## leeha (Dec 11, 2011)

There is no spitback what so ever. This saw
has one big single reed and it looked fine.

I just did a compression test and i only got 145
Maybe the rings need some run time to get seated,
But i would have thought it would have had more.
I check a SP125 and it pulled 175 max.



Lee


----------



## Ambull (Dec 11, 2011)

Dennis Cahoon said:


> Maybe you should buy those 4 boxes of 125 parts the Saw King has for sale Lee.
> 
> On second thought, if he selling those parts......they're Junk!.......Hahahahahahaha!
> 
> #1 McCulloch Super Pro 125 vintage used parts see video | eBay



I think that for once I laughed as hard as you at your post!!!


----------



## rwoods (Dec 11, 2011)

Lee, when I was looking for a replacement kart flywheel I ran across a piece that stated the 125C had a 5 degree flywheel but I can't find it now (even if I did it doesn't mean it would be right). I thought it odd that the standard kart would have less advance than a saw but I did not pursue it further as I replaced the flywheel with the same as I removed. I think you are right as the part number of: a 101B 5 degree is 68280, 101B standard is 68281 and the 125 and MC101D is 68282 (includes pawls); the MC101D lists the 5 degree 68280 as an accessory. Ron


----------



## cpr (Dec 11, 2011)

No module Lee.

I looked at the 2 125 flywheels I have and the 2 101s. All are mounted, so I can't see the key (don't feel like popping them, it's friggin' cold in the shop). The 125C has a cast "2", the other 125 a cast "1A". One 101 has no marks, the other a stamped "5" on top of one of the spring bosses.


----------



## Brian13 (Dec 11, 2011)

Did you use NOS seals? Is it possible you have a bad seal and its leaking?


----------



## leeha (Dec 11, 2011)

Brian13 said:


> Did you use NOS seals? Is it possible you have a bad seal and its leaking?



Yep, NOS seals. But this saw runs so nice on the floor
that i hardly believe it is sucking air. It was at first but 
i found the stuffer had a pin hole. Once i fixed that it 
responds well to carb adjustments.



Lee


----------



## Brian13 (Dec 11, 2011)

Seems like if its running hot enough to get the muffler red hot, it might be leaking somewhere.


----------



## Dennis Cahoon (Dec 11, 2011)

My guess with running hot and lack of power......the timings to far advanced.


----------



## leeha (Dec 12, 2011)

Dennis Cahoon said:


> My guess with running hot and lack of power......the timings to far advanced.



If the timing is to far advanced, How do you retard it.
I could close the point gap some. But this saw is set up 
exactly like all my other 123cc Macs.
Points are set at .020 and running 100LL avgas.
Flywheel looked to be like any other i have seen.



Lee


----------



## cpr (Dec 12, 2011)

Wouldn't the crank be relared to timing also since it has a cam for the points?


----------



## leeha (Dec 12, 2011)

cpr said:


> Wouldn't the crank be relared to timing also since it has a cam for the points?



If the cam on the crank were worn, That would
retard timing.




Lee


----------



## Jacob J. (Dec 12, 2011)

Lee- how is the intake boot on this one? Is it sealing on the manifold tight?

I know you've probably made sure it's good but as you know sometimes the boot can leak just enough air to fool a person.
What I've done when I suspect a leaking intake boot is coat the inside of it with a thin layer of grease and see if the saw runs 
good for a few minutes until the grease sloughs off. Those Mac boots can crack in places where it's extremely difficult to see.


----------



## Dennis Cahoon (Dec 12, 2011)

I know when I bought my 101B it came with 2 flywheels. Not sure what degrees though.


----------



## heimannm (Dec 12, 2011)

The one Charles describes above with the "5" stamped on it is the 5° flywheel for the kart engines, not sure about the others.

Mark


----------



## leeha (Dec 12, 2011)

Jacob J. said:


> Lee- how is the intake boot on this one? Is it sealing on the manifold tight?
> 
> I know you've probably made sure it's good but as you know sometimes the boot can leak just enough air to fool a person.
> What I've done when I suspect a leaking intake boot is coat the inside of it with a thin layer of grease and see if the saw runs
> good for a few minutes until the grease sloughs off. Those Mac boots can crack in places where it's extremely difficult to see.




I have looked at the boot several times and it is in really nice shape.
Not cracked or hard. It's like new. It pops on the intake nice. I use
stp to lube it and it pops on no problem.
Once it's running it doesn't change.
I'm going to check out some flywheels later today and compair
with whats on the saw.



Lee


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 12, 2011)

I haven't messe'd with a point's saw in year's. Can you adjust the air gap on them? Like saw's toady. If so have you checke'd the air gap lee?


----------



## watsonr (Dec 12, 2011)

I would think air gap would be able to change the timing slightly by closeness to the flywheel...but maybe only 1 degree or so.

I have an SP that acts the same way. 155lbs compression, starts easy, idles nice, 4 strokes and full adjustable with carb screws but just doesn't cut it like it should. I'm curious to see what you find Lee. Have you looked at the bar, is it the narrow tail that may need the spacers to keep it off the chain?


----------



## leeha (Dec 12, 2011)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> I haven't messe'd with a point's saw in year's. Can you adjust the air gap on them? Like saw's toady. If so have you checke'd the air gap lee?



All the gaps are correct. The air gap between coil and flywheel
won't change timing or to any degree. Point gap will. The wider
the point gap the more advance timing you get. These are set
to factory spec at .020



watsonr said:


> I would think air gap would be able to change the timing slightly by closeness to the flywheel...but maybe only 1 degree or so.
> 
> I have an SP that acts the same way. 155lbs compression, starts easy, idles nice, 4 strokes and full adjustable with carb screws but just doesn't cut it like it should. I'm curious to see what you find Lee. Have you looked at the bar, is it the narrow tail that may need the spacers to keep it off the chain?



Has the correct bar. No spacers needed. Chain rotates very smooth.
I will let you know what i find. Might be awhile.



Lee


----------



## watsonr (Dec 12, 2011)

What about the clutch slipping? A small enough amount you really can't see..but feel like its not cutting up to par? Check the wear on the drum?


----------



## leeha (Dec 12, 2011)

watsonr said:


> What about the clutch slipping? A small enough amount you really can't see..but feel like its not cutting up to par? Check the wear on the drum?



Clutch and drum are brand new. It's the motor that bogs
when you try to lean on it.


----------



## RandyMac (Dec 12, 2011)

Drop the point gap to maybe 18 and try that. Did you try the timing light trick? I know where an article on that is.


----------



## watsonr (Dec 12, 2011)

Lee,
I looked at my CP flywheel, the only mark I see is the arrow pointing to the edge which would mark the break in the points for timing. I looked at the SP's I have and they have either a 1A or a 2 marked on them and all of them are single keyed....if that helps any.


----------



## leeha (Dec 12, 2011)

RandyMac said:


> Drop the point gap to maybe 18 and try that. Did you try the timing light trick? I know where an article on that is.



I would like to see that article Randy. Do you think 2 thou on point gap
will make that much of a difference. Every 123cc Mac i have worked on
got set at .020 and never any problems.



watsonr said:


> Lee,
> I looked at my CP flywheel, the only mark I see is the arrow pointing to the edge which would mark the break in the points for timing. I looked at the SP's I have and they have either a 1A or a 2 marked on them and all of them are single keyed....if that helps any.



I have looked at 4 flywheels including the one on the saw.
All are single key. two have a number 2 and one of those
also has a number 8. The other two have no numbers. One
is one the saw. If you use a straight edge across the flywheel 
fins and go next to the line, the arrow point it will come into 
the center of the key. All 4 flywheels are the same from what 
i can see so far. I would like to see a detailed pic of a 5 degree
flywheel if anyone has one.


Lee


----------



## Mr. Bow Saw (Dec 12, 2011)

What carb are using on there. Have you tried one off another 125 you know
works well. My CP 125 has SDC 20 on it. I know you said it was responding to
adjustments well. You have gone over everything ells rechecking it.
It shows in my carb book the CP 125 came with SDC 20 OR Tillotson HS 70A.


----------



## cpr (Dec 12, 2011)

Diagnosing the no sparky on the 791 tonight. Somehow the points had opened to a huge spread even though I set them at .020 after they migrated the first time and the saw hasn't run since. Anyway, seems I have a bad condensor. While I had it off, I noticed the MC-91 flywheel is stamped "5" on the starter pawl boss just like one of my 101 flywheels. So here's your pics!












Looks just like the one you describe. I'll have to see about the P/N to verify if this is a 5 deg. wheel (looks like 57946).

EDIT: Couldn't find this specific P/N, but Marmax lists a 5 deg. wheel and their photo shows a stamped 5 in the same place as mine. Kudos to Mark, he's right. Now, how specificly you tell, I don't know. I'd have to pop another one off and look side by side at them.





View attachment 211229


----------



## buzz sawyer (Dec 13, 2011)

RandyMac said:


> Drop the point gap to maybe 18 and try that. Did you try the timing light trick? I know where an article on that is.



That would give more coil saturation but wouldn't that retard the timing?


----------



## heimannm (Dec 13, 2011)

Ignition timing with a "timing light", I hope I have the pages in the correct order.

Mark

View attachment 211298


View attachment 211296


View attachment 211297


----------



## leeha (Dec 13, 2011)

Nice info Mark, Doe's this method apply to
the larger Mac's as well.





Lee


----------



## watsonr (Dec 13, 2011)

I've been told that all the points saws can be set using a timing light and this method. I think it would only vary if it was a two leg coil, but think that you could still get it to work the same. A very old friend of mine who is an old time saw mechanic that used and worked on a lot of Macs said this was the most accurate method and worked every time. He explained it to me the same way as in what Mark provided, having the diagrams to see really makes a difference.


----------



## RandyMac (Dec 13, 2011)

I couldn't download Mark's stuff, is there a degree wheel involved?


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 13, 2011)

RandyMac said:


> I couldn't download Mark's stuff, is there a degree wheel involved?



You probably need to install Adobe Reader.


----------



## watsonr (Dec 13, 2011)

No degree wheel. Just use a timing light and hook one end to the coil grounding wire and the other to the saw body. When the points are open the light is off and when they are closed the lights on. It should turn on when the arrow on the flywheel is pointing at the center coil leg.


----------



## RandyMac (Dec 13, 2011)

That I have Brad, something is interfering, I'm blaming Charter Cable.


----------



## heimannm (Dec 13, 2011)

That procedure will be correct for all of the large McCulloch saws with the horizontal cylinder and points up to and including the SP125.

Mark


----------



## leeha (Dec 18, 2011)

I had some time today to mess around with this piece of junk.
I checked the carb again. Intake boot, etc. I then wanted to 
try the timing thing. So i got out the multi meter and found the
points were braking where the center line on the flywheel was
just past the center lamination. Wow i thought, Timing is way 
to late. So i pulled the flywheel and checked the points. Gap 
was at .014. Not sure what happened but i had set them at .020.
Reset the points so they broke where the line is in the center of the
lamination. Seems to run much better with a lot more power.
Hopfully the compression will come up with some more run time.
Here's another video. The wood is very hard well seasoned oak.

Lee


----------



## watsonr (Dec 18, 2011)

Saw is running much nicer, big piece of wood too!


----------



## Danno (Dec 18, 2011)

Awesome restore and good entertainment for the read. Lots of good information all around in here. Consider me subscribed to see how this runs after break in. I'm most interested in seeing those compression numbers. 145 just seems too low and that's not something you addressed.

Wish I knew about the spray on bedliner idea for the cover. I used a texture spray with black topcoat for the Super 250. I don't expect it to hold up and the texture is too heavy.


----------



## watsonr (Dec 18, 2011)

I don't think 145 is to low for that old saw. Most of mine are hovering around 140-155.


----------



## Danno (Dec 18, 2011)

watsonr said:


> I don't think 145 is to low for that old saw. Most of mine are hovering around 140-155.



I just thought with new rings and a hone he'd be over 160 at least. I agree that it wouldn't be too low for an old used saw, but I figured this disqualifies it from falling completely into that old used category, lol.


----------



## leeha (Dec 18, 2011)

watsonr said:


> I don't think 145 is to low for that old saw. Most of mine are hovering around 140-155.



Compression isn't really considered low, But compaired to my
other 123cc Macs it could be higher. My freshly rebuilt 797's are 
definately higher. And two of my SP125's are at 175 each.
This CP has new rings and i'm hoping it gets stronger.




Lee


----------



## watsonr (Dec 18, 2011)

I would think it might, but then again it may not, I wouldn't take it apart trying to figure out why....but that's just me.:smile2:

It didn't get a new cylinder did it, just honed?


----------



## leeha (Dec 18, 2011)

Just honed. Bore was really nice to start with 
mic'ed out nice as well.
I'm just gonna run it the way it is.




Lee


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## Danno (Dec 18, 2011)

I dunno nothing bout compression releases, but could a faulty one explain any of the initial problems you were having (I understand that the gap prob solved most of that timing stuff), but if your compression release isn't sealing 100% could you get a hot spot in the cylinder from the air leak and also lower than expected compression?


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## leeha (Dec 18, 2011)

Danno said:


> I dunno nothing bout compression releases, but could a faulty one explain any of the initial problems you were having (I understand that the gap prob solved most of that timing stuff), but if your compression release isn't sealing 100% could you get a hot spot in the cylinder from the air leak and also lower than expected compression?




That is very possible Danno, But it is tight as a drum.
No leakage there at all. One of the first things i had checked.



Lee


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## Danno (Dec 18, 2011)

Well, like I said, you seem to be good to go, so let's see how she runs when everything is worn in! Definitely report back after she's got some more time on her.


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## kykayaker27 (Dec 18, 2011)

kinda newby here how does the d44 stack up to those


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## leeha (Dec 18, 2011)

kykayaker27 said:


> kinda newby here how does the d44 stack up to those




In small wood ok, But in big wood,
Not even close. Two totally different saws.




Lee


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## Danno (Dec 18, 2011)

kykayaker27 said:


> kinda newby here how does the d44 stack up to those



It's not even close to the same class. D44 is a 72cc saw, the CP125 here is a 123cc saw


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## cpr (Dec 18, 2011)

That said, for a 72cc saw built in the mid 50s, you'll be hard pressed to find one that kicks ass harder. Way, way ahead of its time.


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## kykayaker27 (Dec 18, 2011)

for me im deaf in my left ear from a stroke among other probs next time i fire mine up im wearing hearing protection sucker is loud:biggrin:


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## buzz sawyer (Dec 18, 2011)

leeha said:


> I had some time today to mess around with this piece of junk.
> I checked the carb again. Intake boot, etc. I then wanted to
> try the timing thing. So i got out the multi meter and found the
> points were braking where the center line on the flywheel was
> ...



Definitely better Lee, especially in that oak.


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## OldDeadWood (Dec 19, 2011)

*Timing Indicator #57443A*

On page 11 #165 Mark Heimannm linked three sheets on timing.

Great Info, Thanks Mark.

Now; Could someone with the 57443A Timing Indicator trace it with a fine pencil and scan it in so we could coppy it. Or, perhaps scan in the full size Timing Indicator.

Thanks, Woody.


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## 24d (Dec 21, 2011)

Redirect Notice


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## heimannm (Dec 21, 2011)

Last time I checked, Bob Johnson (607 638 9297) had the timing indicator available and reasonably priced.

Mark


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## Ambull (Dec 21, 2011)

leeha said:


> I had some time today to mess around with this piece of junk.
> I checked the carb again. Intake boot, etc. I then wanted to
> try the timing thing. So i got out the multi meter and found the
> points were braking where the center line on the flywheel was
> ...



I am very proud of myself, lol, because I thought the timing was late originally.

Here it is from back when you first posted problems........



Ambull said:


> From reading this board, most of the people "who know" say that the CP125 runs stronger than the SP125. If that is true, something must be wrong. Perhaps it is the timing. I am not sure how compatible the flywheels are, but maybe it has the wrong flywheel on it. *If the timing was really late, it might do the things that you are experiencing. * Are you using the points or a chip?


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## Eccentric (Dec 21, 2011)

Ambull said:


> I am very proud of myself, lol, because I thought the timing was late originally.
> 
> Here it is from back when you first posted problems........



I see you're flexible enough to pat your own back JP!


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## Macman125 (Oct 28, 2012)

*cp125 bar*

Does anyone know where I can find a 32 or 36 inch bar for my cp125


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