# Hi-Ranger Joystick Control Tubing Identification



## Blazer406

I am trying to patch up a late '80's vintage Ford F800 with a Hi-Ranger boom on it. I think it is a 50' or 55' working height setup. It belonged to my late father-in-law and has been sitting for about 2 years. We fired up the truck last night and tried to operate the boom. It had a previous issue that if it sat unused for several weeks..... you would have to bleed the joystick controls before you could use it. Symptoms would be the bucket was really slow to move once you moved or twisted the joystick.

Fast forward 2 years..... it appears alot of the hydraulic fluid has slowly leaked out on the drivers side rear outrigger. 

Well... after just trying to function the boom with the lower controls.... one of the little clear tubes coming from the joystick in the bucket back to the lower controls springs a leak. Upon closer inspection... It has little brass tube nuts and ferrules. The current tubing is majorly brittle.

The right thing to do is replace all of it. I might patch this temporarily to see if I can get it working properly before I try and replace all of it.

I don't know if I am ready to tackle that myself or not..... but I might have to.

The tubing appears to be 1/4" OD nylon tubing. What wall thickness is it? What other specs are pertinant? Can you get this tubing from Grainger or somewhere? What about local hardware stores? 

My measurements are 1/4" OD x 0.050" Wall Thickness..... or .150" ID. Again.... I see what I think it is in Grainger... 4CHC1 - Nylon Vacuum Tubing

What pressure and temperature do these controls operate under?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.


----------



## wheelloader123

Ordinarily the line sees no more than 20 PSI, and will function in about -20F to 150F without any problems. They go by the name "Tygon" tubing, and have a much "harder", less expansive wall than the tubing you typically find at the hardware store. It has to be non-expanding or "buldging" otherwise when you use the joystick your fluid pressure (within the tubing) will be lost when the tube's walls expand. A good hydraulic hose shop or a Parker store should be able to get what you need. Also the ferrels and nuts are not standard tubing type, they are one sided (to prevent crushing or distorting the tube)- single cone instead of the traditional "football" shaped. Make sure you install the right ones.


----------



## Blazer406

wheelloader123 said:


> Ordinarily the line sees no more than 20 PSI, and will function in about -20F to 150F without any problems. They go by the name "Tygon" tubing, and have a much "harder", less expansive wall than the tubing you typically find at the hardware store. It has to be non-expanding or "buldging" otherwise when you use the joystick your fluid pressure (within the tubing) will be lost when the tube's walls expand. A good hydraulic hose shop or a Parker store should be able to get what you need. Also the ferrels and nuts are not standard tubing type, they are one sided (to prevent crushing or distorting the tube)- single cone instead of the traditional "football" shaped. Make sure you install the right ones.



I installed a nut and football shaped ferrule last night to fix the line that broke... it seemed to work. I was able to run the boom up (both upper and lower boom) as well as rotate the boom by using the hand controls on the turret.

Can anybody send me a parts diagram for the joystick controller? I am trying to figure out just how this thing works. I need to bleed the air out at the joystick and I think it will be fine. Upon reading the dataplate on the boom, I have a *HI-RANGER Model 5FB-48PBI*.

There are 6 similar sized nylon or tygon lines coming from the three hand valves located on the turret. There is 2 tiny tubes that go to? They are coming from the bypass switch you are supposed to hit to use the turret hand controls..... and going up into the end of the boom along with the other tubes. I also notice there is at least 2 maybe 3 full size lines that appear to be hydraulic also going into the bucket joystick control. I am assuming one is a low pressure supply and one is a low pressure return? .... then the other 6 tygon tubes actually send that small hydraulic pressure to each valve to actuate each function? (2 tubes per valve?)??

The tiny tubes (they are probably only 1/8" OD... these suckers are small) are currently broke (at least one is) near the turret. I am assuming I need to re-hook this up.

Also... the rear metal cover just below the turret that is removable... where I have to put in the hydraulic oil..... there is a small cylinder that has a button that looks like it should be pushed in while the cover is in-place. When I first tried to make th boom move....it was as if no hydraulic pressure was at the valves.... like they were turned off. If I manually push the end of the cylinder... it sends the hydraulic pressure to the turret controls and they begin to work.

edit: I read that the 1/8" spaghetti lines send pressure (3-4 psi) down to the safety valve at the turret to enable the joystick. I wonder if that also would play into the little cylinder under that cover that I have been having to push to make any of it work?

As you can see... I'm still confused to how this sucker should be working.

Any input is welcome.

Thanks.


----------



## Blazer406

wheelloader123 said:


> Ordinarily the line sees no more than 20 PSI, and will function in about -20F to 150F without any problems. They go by the name "Tygon" tubing, and have a much "harder", less expansive wall than the tubing you typically find at the hardware store. It has to be non-expanding or "buldging" otherwise when you use the joystick your fluid pressure (within the tubing) will be lost when the tube's walls expand. A good hydraulic hose shop or a Parker store should be able to get what you need. Also the ferrels and nuts are not standard tubing type, they are one sided (to prevent crushing or distorting the tube)- single cone instead of the traditional "football" shaped. Make sure you install the right ones.


 
Thanks for the info..... but are you positive on the tygon? I considered tygon as a possibility initially until I found a chemical compatibility chart at Grainger. Tygon doesn't get a letter grade when you look under hydraulic oils for compatability. Nylon gets an "A".

The below chart is for "pumps" but covers different chemicals and and their respective compatability with certain plastics and other materials.

Chemical Compatability Chart

Also, I found nylon available in the same size (1/4" OD x 0.150" ID) as what I actually measured off my bucket truck.

Here is the one I found:

Nylon 1/4" OD x 0.050 wall natural colored tubing

At any rate, I have spliced my tubing where it broke and am now going to (when I get a chance) bleed the system completely from the joystick back to the valves. I am also going to fix the two tiny spaghetti lines that are also broke.

Anyway, just thought I would share the info I found since I began this search.


----------



## Blazer406

wheelloader123 said:


> Ordinarily the line sees no more than 20 PSI, and will function in about -20F to 150F without any problems. They go by the name "Tygon" tubing, and have a much "harder", less expansive wall than the tubing you typically find at the hardware store. It has to be non-expanding or "buldging" otherwise when you use the joystick your fluid pressure (within the tubing) will be lost when the tube's walls expand. A good hydraulic hose shop or a Parker store should be able to get what you need. Also the ferrels and nuts are not standard tubing type, they are one sided (to prevent crushing or distorting the tube)- single cone instead of the traditional "football" shaped. Make sure you install the right ones.



Are you sure on the "tygon"? 

I had initially considered tygon tubing as a possibility until I saw a chemical compatability chart. The chart below refers to "pumps" but gives you an idea which plastics and other materials are compatable with which chemicals. Tygon gets a "-" in this chart. Nylon on the other hand gets an "A". Nylon also meets pressure requirements and temp requirements as I understand them.

Chemical Compatability Chart

Here is the Nylon Vacuum Tubing Grainger sells that appears to be the same exact dimensions as the tubing I took off my bucket truck. 0.250" OD x 0.050" wall thickness.

Nylon Tubing

Just thought I would share the info I found since I started this quest.


----------



## Blazer406

*Update*

Well... I piddled with it last night. I bled the small clear nylon hoses going to the joystick. I verified the deadman was hooked up with one tiny 1/8" spaghetti line. I initially thought there was 2 of these lines..... but after taking the switch apart and the cover off the joystick cubbyhole..... it appears the 2nd line was the original line that was unhooked at both ends and at some point... someone pulled a brand new line from the joystick down to the momentary push switch near the turret hand controls.

I was able to make the pump pressure up the joystick and I actually rode up in the bucket using the joystick controls . Now I need to figure out why the deadman isn't working. I can hear the contacts switching when I squeeze the handle..... but nothing happens. I must have a wiring issue between contacts and solenoid valve.


----------



## DDM

In a pinch Ive used 1/4 ice maker supply line to replace a broken piece of control cable with the nylon ferrels and a brass insert. Yes it works actually 1 such repair has been on the truck for 3 yrs with no issues.... Damn low hanging limbs...


----------



## Blazer406

*Update*

Well.... I got it working..... there is a fuse block on the firewall inside the engine compartment with two glass fuses installed. I had a bad fuse there that checked good visually, but under load... wouldn't work.... the chrome cap on the fuse turned and broke the center fused electrode away but would make enough contact to register voltage cross the fuse sometimes. I had to figure out how it all worked.... with the dash switch on.... and the light lit up under the dash.... my controls on the turret work properly and the deadman on the joystick functions properly.

Now that I figured everything out....I found the service and parts manual(s) in a cabinet in the shop. Apparently my late father-in-law had the manuals all along. It would have been nice if I would have found these a month ago.....

Anyway.... truck is functioning as it should except two slightly leaking outriggers that seep a little fluid when you suck them back in (maybe the line is loose?).

It really is a nice truck....


----------



## mikebell711

*Hi-Ranger Control tubing cracked center of boom, sphaghetti tubing brittle - replacem*

Hey ya'll,

so, what was the approved type of tubing to replace the cracked tubing?


----------



## Blazer406

mikebell711 said:


> Hey ya'll,
> 
> so, what was the approved type of tubing to replace the cracked tubing?



The service manual I have (which I didn't know I even had until I got the blasted thing figured out) lists it as nylon tubing. 

I found nylon tubing with the correct dimensions (1/4" OD x .150 ID) at Grainger.... came in 100' lengths.

HTH


----------



## Jace

I have a high Ranger bucket truck as well. It is a 1989 5FA-48PBI
I need a new rubber boot that goes directly beneath the control handle, on the outside of the bucket, yet inside the fiberglass guard .
(Like 4" X 4" x a foot long give or take)
Where is the best place on line to order it? (Hopefully reasonable)


----------



## spo307

found this a little cheaper
Semi-Flexible Nylon Pressure Tubing 6/6 | U.S. Plastic Corp.


----------



## Signs unlimited

Blazer406 said:


> The service manual I have (which I didn't know I even had until I got the blasted thing figured out) lists it as nylon tubing.
> 
> I found nylon tubing with the correct dimensions (1/4" OD x .150 ID) at Grainger.... came in 100' lengths.
> 
> HTH


I have been looking for a manual that shows the proper location of all the hydraulic lines from ground control levers to turret. Mine must be wrong because it runs opposite of the direction i want


----------



## Robert C

We have a Baker Hi-Ranger Linesman 2 5FA-48PBI. Does anyone out there have a manual or know where one is? I have to get all the bucket electrics working since the last owner had some issues and I don't have or want to reinvent the design.


----------



## Chasestreeseevice

wheelloader123 said:


> Ordinarily the line sees no more than 20 PSI, and will function in about -20F to 150F without any problems. They go by the name "Tygon" tubing, and have a much "harder", less expansive wall than the tubing you typically find at the hardware store. It has to be non-expanding or "buldging" otherwise when you use the joystick your fluid pressure (within the tubing) will be lost when the tube's walls expand. A good hydraulic hose shop or a Parker store should be able to get what you need. Also the ferrels and nuts are not standard tubing type, they are one sided (to prevent crushing or distorting the tube)- single cone instead of the traditional "football" shaped. Make sure you install the right ones.


I have a hi ranger bucket need some help with what tubing i should use found some naraflow type h tubing someone else put air brake tubing on it and now i can't get much pressure to the joystick it works fine from the lower controls and my deadman was unhooked they have a off and on switch for the hydraulic pump if anyone has a wiring diagram for the deadman switch that would help me out too thanks


----------



## Chasestreeseevice

Robert C said:


> We have a Baker Hi-Ranger Linesman 2 5FA-48PBI. Does anyone out there have a manual or know where one is? I have to get all the bucket electrics working since the last owner had some issues and I don't have or want to reinvent the design.


Did you get it figured out? I have the same bucket


----------

