# Chainsaw Mill??



## AaronB (Dec 1, 2008)

While I was at the in-laws for Thanksgiving this past week my father-in-law showed me a tree he cut down for some reason or another and thought getting boards out of it might be worth it. So we thought about getting an Alaskan chainsaw mill and cutting the boards out of it ourselves.

Here is the large end, about 24" in dia






Here is a shot from the large end, its about 9-10 feet before that jog starts





Here is the small end, about 15" in dia





Here is a shot from the small end, its about 10-11 feet long





So the tree is aobut 21 feet long and you can see there are not any branches coming off of it, there are a couple of knots but thats about it. He didn't just want to chop it up and use it for firewood since he knew I might be able to get good use out of it.
We started talking and thought an Alaskan might be the way to go since we can bring it to the log and cut the boards right there and then haul away the boards. 

Before you ask, we thought about taking it to a small mill, BUT its only one log (right now) and besides the fact that we have no easy way of moving such a large log around, even if we cut it at the jog. He has other trees that he knows we could get good wood out of so we would use the Alaskan more than once, maybe a couple of times a year.

What I am really after is input on the Alaskan saw mill and things we might need to watch out for. In the long run I think it would be worth it. 
Thanks for any help/suggestions


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## Adkpk (Dec 1, 2008)

What size chainsaw do you plan to use in the mill?


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## MotorSeven (Dec 1, 2008)

From the looks of that curve, you are going to loose 1/3 of that because you won't be able to get that on the mill. Are you planning on doing more milling? If so, go for it, but a mill won't pay for itself on one tree. A warning: once you get hooked on it, life will never be the same:greenchainsaw: 

RD


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## BobL (Dec 1, 2008)

MotorSeven said:


> A warning: once you get hooked on it, life will never be the same:greenchainsaw:
> 
> RD



Yep!


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## AaronB (Dec 1, 2008)

Adkpk said:


> What size chainsaw do you plan to use in the mill?



Not totally sure, my father-in-law has two saws but I have no idea how powerful they are and from what I have read I need a 75cc min saw. If his are not that powerful my wife already said I could get one. 

Granted that throws a lot more money in the mix but we need a chainsaw any way for the firewood, so it would serve two purposes.

Saw suggestions??




MotorSeven said:


> From the looks of that curve, you are going to loose 1/3 of that because you won't be able to get that on the mill. Are you planning on doing more milling? If so, go for it, but a mill won't pay for itself on one tree. A warning: once you get hooked on it, life will never be the sam



We planned on cutting up the log in 6 or 7 foot lengths because most woodworking projects I do don't require real long boards. I know it wont pay for itself in one tree, but over the years it eventually will, besides using it for firewood.
Thanks for the waring about getting hooked, I saw a thing called the "Ripsaw", that looks nice, and looks like it waste less wood. I'll start with the Alaskan and go from there.


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## mtngun (Dec 1, 2008)

AaronB said:


> Saw suggestions??



Stihl 660 or Husky 395. 36" bar for milling, 24" bar for firewood (you can cut firewood with a 36" bar, but it's tiring).


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## woodshop (Dec 1, 2008)

mtngun said:


> Stihl 660 or Husky 395. 36" bar for milling, 24" bar for firewood (you can cut firewood with a 36" bar, but it's tiring).




Good advice above. Only thing... if you're only getting ONE big saw, and you won't be milling tons of 30 inch wide planks, you can get away with something in the 75cc range like the MS460. I've milled with that and on 12-14 inch wide hardwoods it's got enough power. Point is if you're going to be using it mostly for firewood, lugging a 395 around all day is going to get old. Even that 460 is on the heavy side for firewood. Good firewood saws are in the 60cc range, like my MS361... plenty of power, but light enough to heft it up and down hundreds of times a day cutting 16 inch pieces.


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## derekh (Dec 1, 2008)

I have an Alaskan Small Log Mill and I have one suggestion, that is replace the standard plastic grip with a soft sponge handlebar grip from your local bike shop. The saw powerhead has anti-vibration mounting but gripping the mill with the standard grip negates that. I have found it much easier on the body gripping the soft foam over the hard plastic.

Anyway, my humble 2c worth.
Derek


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## glennschumann (Dec 1, 2008)

Derek is absolutely right... sponge handles make all the difference in the world (albeit on the other side of the world). I actually use some of the big one you find on old exercise equipment left at the curb. I can hardly feel the vibrations through those, and my wrists don't hurt nearly as much the next day.

In this thread, I made post 11, and it has been helpful to a few in your position.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=853389#post853389 

Here is my 2 cents: Don't just think about straight logs... if you cut that curve lengthwise, you can have some "C" shaped boards that a lumber yard would be embarassed to display, but if you bookmatch them, you can make a nice table top with an oval shape, and charge 3x as much. 

For your purposes, I'd stick with a chainsaw mill, and let the bandsaw mill for later if you really get into it.

Oh, and if you get one, you may find you have a few more friends... kind of like owning a truck...

Good luck!


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## AaronB (Dec 2, 2008)

I was looking at the Stihl 411 so I am glad you pointed to the 460. Since it can have bars from 16"-32" it looks like it would be a good choice. Like mtngun said I can get two bars and just use one for milling and one for firewood.

Guess since I am going to do this I need to see if he can get that log off the ground a few inches so it doesn't rot this winter. Not sure if you can do it himself or with a car jack or something, might have to drive back down and help him do it so the underneath side can get some air to it.

Thanks for all the suggestions and advice.


**Edit:** One last question, I see ripping in chains in .375x.50 gauge, x.58 gauge, x.63 guage, is that the thickness and is one better for milling?


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## hazard (Dec 2, 2008)

I started out milling with my Stihl 044 with the 36" bar and cut a few 28" wide boards. It is slow going but it will do the job. I was going to suggest the 460.

Get the oiling attachment from granberg also.

Chris


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## Zodiac45 (Dec 2, 2008)

hazard said:


> I started out milling with my Stihl 044 with the 36" bar and cut a few 28" wide boards. It is slow going but it will do the job. I was going to suggest the 460.
> 
> Get the oiling attachment from granberg also.
> 
> Chris


Yep,
Wood type makes a difference too. Softwoods for lumber you'll be able too cut larger boards than hardwood. I've used my Dolmar 120si 68cc with a 24" bar too cut 18" larch and cedar all day long. For bigger hardwoods, you want 90cc or better.


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## AaronB (Dec 2, 2008)

mtngun said:


> Stihl 660 or Husky 395. 36" bar for milling, 24" bar for firewood (you can cut firewood with a 36" bar, but it's tiring).



All of you are going to laugh, but when I saw Husky 395, I thought we was talking about Husky sold at Home Depot.  

I was looking at the Stihl 460 but now that I know what Husky means I see the Husky 395xp is 84cc and the Stihl 650 is also 84cc. They are approximately $60 more than the 460 at 76cc or the Husky 575, is that worth it? Doesn't seem like much of a jump, maybe the 460 is lighter in weight.

Guess I don't want to buy to unpowered of a saw but don't want to go over the top either.


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## irishcountry (Dec 2, 2008)

My 395xp I believe is 93.6 CC'S I also have a 455 rancher that is 56cc's and I wouldn't think of using it mill anything other than maybe very soft small diameter wood its my firewood saw anyway just to give you a cc range if you can go a little more it will be worth the extra power for the money. Maybe look for a decent used saw I know Dolmar and Makita are good options too!! Good luck you'll like it!! Irishcountry


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## huskymac (Dec 2, 2008)

*Husky not Huskee*

I was checking Craigslist the other day and saw an add for a husky lawn tractor for $500. I got so exited I think I peed a little.

Clicked on the link to find a Huskee.:censored:


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## stipes (Dec 4, 2008)

*It;s true...*



BobL said:


> Yep!



Your goin the route I did,,search and ask...I found out alot of good people on here will help all they can....I made my first cut last week,,and you will be hooked..Hope the weather can hold out this weekend cause gonna do more milling..I had alot of fun,,and might take awhile to get set up,,like me still learning,,but it is a ball to do....Good luck...I'm sorry I dont know alot since I'm just starting myself,,but to me,,I enjoying and learning...


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## AaronB (Dec 5, 2008)

stipes said:


> Your goin the route I did,,search and ask...I found out alot of good people on here will help all they can....I made my first cut last week,,and you will be hooked..Hope the weather can hold out this weekend cause gonna do more milling..I had alot of fun,,and might take awhile to get set up,,like me still learning,,but it is a ball to do....Good luck...I'm sorry I dont know alot since I'm just starting myself,,but to me,,I enjoying and learning...



All the info can be overwhelming but I am getting through it, just gotta get which saw I want to get. Then gotta decide if the stock bar is good enough and then which ripping chain to buy.


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## Adkpk (Dec 5, 2008)

AaronB said:


> All the info can be overwhelming but I am getting through it, just gotta get which saw I want to get. Then gotta decide if the stock bar is good enough and then which ripping chain to buy.



Any saw you are going to buy big enough to mill with is going to come with a good enough bar to mill with. If not don't by a saw with a bar at all and buy the bar separately. Milling chain would be Granberg or Carlton in my opinion. 

And about the curve in the log that is the best thing about it.


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## AaronB (Dec 8, 2008)

Adkpk said:


> Any saw you are going to buy big enough to mill with is going to come with a good enough bar to mill with. If not don't by a saw with a bar at all and buy the bar separately. Milling chain would be Granberg or Carlton in my opinion.
> 
> And about the curve in the log that is the best thing about it.




Thanks for the bar and chain info.

Curve in log, after talking to others I am going to make sure that curve is in the middle of one of the 6 or 7 foot pieces we cut it up into. Might make a nice looking table top.


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## Rockfarmer (Dec 8, 2008)

Adkpk said:


> And about the curve in the log that is the best thing about it.



Why???


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## Rockfarmer (Dec 8, 2008)

AaronB, heres 2 cents from a greenhorn. 1000$ is alot to throw at a saw for a csm. You might want to look on ebay for an old used saw, something with big cc's, piston, stroke and big main bearings like the stihl 066, 075 ect. I found a 045 Super for 225$ that runs real good (so far). These big ol saws stood the test of time and are easy to work on and easy to repair. Unless of course you got deep pockets then Id go get the biggest Husky or Stihl they make  I really dont know squat about chains yet so cant help you there, good luck! RF


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## Adkpk (Dec 8, 2008)

Rockfarmer said:


> Why???



Why not! Can't buy it in the store like that. Be a good place to put ones knees if he made a coffee table from it. Might have some narley grain to it. He could slice it up into slats glue them together and make a really unusual table top. Thats enough for now.


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## excess650 (Dec 10, 2008)

There is a Husky 394 over in the Tradin Post for $350. That is considerably less than what you'll have to pay for a similar condition 066 or 660.


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