# Your opinion of best firewood chainsaw for homeowner



## livemusic (Dec 23, 2015)

After paying $280 for my Stihl ms290, which was supposedly "made ready" to go by a knowledgeable seller, I have now spent an additional $100 on it to get it to run right. That doesn't seem like a very wise move... I wonder should I have just bought new and I wonder how much a good saw for me would cost new. I'm still trying to get this one right, lol, but if I don't get it done via suggestions on here, I'll take it to a different mechanic who has been recommended.

So, what do you think is a good chainsaw for somebody who does not cut a lot of wood. A few cords/year at most, since it doesn't get that cold here. That isn't much compared to you guys. And the occasional use in my yard; trees sometimes die, etc.

Reliable is good! I also note that this Stihl is maybe a bit heavy? I have considered buying a lighter one for limbing but then I think heck, I won't be cutting THAT much wood, so, I might ought to just get by with one saw. I am also curious as to what length bar is best for me. Do you have a favorite or a suggestion?

P.S. I am also intrigued with doing a muffler mod on this ms290. Also, bear in mind that I am not brand loyal... whatever works is fine with me... and I am not that worried about price. And... it doesn't have to be new but I am frustrated with my used purchase. I probably should have bought one from some local expert. Lastly, my firewood would be hardwood, mostly oak.


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## Full Chisel (Dec 23, 2015)

It's hard to beat an MS250 for a budget firewood saw. Not the strongest saw on the block but plenty for occasional "homeowner" use. I hear the price will be jumping up on them soon though.


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## JeffGu (Dec 23, 2015)

I believe that the absolute best bang for your buck would be an Echo CS-590 with a 20" bar (the most common configuration). These saws sell for $400 new and will last you a very long time.
This is my favorite ground work saw in tree care, and for cutting firewood. I have numerous saws that cost a lot more money, and in this class I prefer to carry the Stihl MS-261C-MQ up into the tree when needed because it's a little slimmer and a bit less awkward to use hanging off of a rope and lanyard. But on the ground, I use the Echo.

Of course, that's an opinion. But, if you go to a dealer that sells both Stihl and Echo saws (many do) and ask them, they may very well point you to the CS-590 saw... I've watched my dealer do it several times. It's just a nice balance of power, weight, reliability and cost.


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## BoBDoG2o02 (Dec 23, 2015)

look at my sig. both echos. I cut 8 cord a year.


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## BoBDoG2o02 (Dec 23, 2015)

Full Chisel said:


> It's hard to beat an MS250 for a budget firewood saw. Not the strongest saw on the block but plenty for occasional "homeowner" use. I hear the price will be jumping up on them soon though.



Dude, your trailer park boys quote just cracked me up.


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## TimberWolf530 (Dec 23, 2015)

When you can't fix them yourself, buying used is always a crapshoot. As said before, it's hard to beat the CS 590 for what they cost. Since you can't do it yourself, I recommend you buy one from a dealer who is willing to properly tune it for you instead of getting at Home Depot, etc.


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## turnkey4099 (Dec 23, 2015)

livemusic said:


> After paying $280 for my Stihl ms290, which was supposedly "made ready" to go by a knowledgeable seller, I have now spent an additional $100 on it to get it to run right. That doesn't seem like a very wise move... I wonder should I have just bought new and I wonder how much a good saw for me would cost new. I'm still trying to get this one right, lol, but if I don't get it done via suggestions on here, I'll take it to a different mechanic who has been recommended.
> 
> So, what do you think is a good chainsaw for somebody who does not cut a lot of wood. A few cords/year at most, since it doesn't get that cold here. That isn't much compared to you guys. And the occasional use in my yard; trees sometimes die, etc.
> 
> ...



Lots of good advice here. best all around chainsaw for moderate amount of use is one that will run a 20" bar. Those saws will also run a 24" bar skiptooth if needed. That was my one saw stable back when I started in 1976. Many years later before I started adding saws. My 'go-to' is still a saw with a 20" bar. All the others in the stable are 'purpose use" saws, i.e, MS192T for brushing, MS441/32" and 28" bars for the big stuff (rarely used for that but it has turned into one noodling fool with a 20" bar), MS361 with 24" bucking/felling. Still pack my old MS310 as a backup in case one of the others packs it in.

Yes, I am all Stihl. and one main reasone is the inboard clutch. Allows dropping the powerhead off when you stick a bar. Have had to do that more times than I care to recall.

Harry K

Harry K


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## JeffGu (Dec 23, 2015)

Todd Williams said:


> ...buy one from a dealer who is willing to properly tune it for you...



Absolutely! My dealer does it with every saw he sells, regardless of price, and he has a sawbuck and logs in his shop! No logs on the property? They might as well be selling toasters and cement mixers.
His prices are as good as the Big Box stores, too. There's nobody at Homo Depot that knows which end of a chainsaw to point at the wood.


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## Sagetown (Dec 23, 2015)

U can get a lemon in any brand of saw. It happens. Cutting a cord or two a year doesn't require anything special. What's important is ~ what U , as a sawyer , are comfortable with. IMHO the MS290 is a bit heavy, but it's a very durable saw, and can take a lot of abuse in unskilled hands. Lots of farmer have more than one at any given time. I like my MS 211, but it may be a lil small for your liking. I just traded in a good MS270, which is a nice saw. If U stay on-line here, I don't know how long your will power can resist the temptations of a pro saw. Best to stay away from those articles.


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## livemusic (Dec 23, 2015)

JeffGu said:


> I believe that the absolute best bang for your buck would be an Echo CS-590 with a 20" bar (the most common configuration)...



The Echo site shows that CS-590 as 13.2 lb dry weight. Isn't that about the same as my Stihl ms-290? Home Depot site shows the CS-590 as 20 lb weight; I assume that is with bar/chain. So, this saw is certainly not lighter than my ms-290, right? So, you guys are of the opinion that this weight is okay when we are talking about a good saw choice? I am reasonably fit but not a young buck, lol.

Curious... if one bought a CS-590, do people do muffler mods on them, lol, or is it good to go forever?


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## JeffGu (Dec 23, 2015)

Home Depot weight is the shipping weight of the saw. Muffler mod is about _all_ you need to do to an Echo. They generally don't benefit from porting, etc. as much as the Stihl and Husky saws. Completely stock they usually start easy and run great. If you're 45 feet up a tree, blocking down the spar, the cutting speed of a midsize saw can be important. You're on spikes and a piece of rope. Not the most comfortable position to be operating a bigger saw, so speed can be more important. I doubt if cutting firewood for your own use will put such demands on you. You can put a supercharger on a Volkswagon Beetle, but if you're using it to putter around town, what's the point? Only one... macho bullsh*t to impress the kiddies. Use the saw for a couple of months and see if it actually needs any mods, first. The CS-590 really doesn't, to tell the truth. Muffler mod on mine, but it didn't make a terribly noticeable difference.


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## lindnova (Dec 23, 2015)

I hear good things about Echo here all the time.

What is wrong with your 290? They are a great saw for an occasional user and I would keep it if you own it and it runs good. Might need to find a good dealer to tune it right. 

I have Stihl's. I have not regretted getting pro saws. They are lighter with a better power to weight ratio. The 290 is heavier and my 260 has the same power with much less weight. If I was to have one saw I would have a 60 cc (362). If I wasn't in a hurry and wanted something lighter a 260/261 would be the way to go. MS250 is a good little saw for the occasional user. I cut 15 cords a year, clear tree lines on farm fields and do a little milling.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Dec 23, 2015)

I used a 290 for 2 years cutting firewood when I first started. It cut a good 50 cords.


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## CR888 (Dec 23, 2015)

Redmax!


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## zogger (Dec 23, 2015)

A single saw? Any brand 60cc pro saw, from whatever local dealer is the best. By best, knowledgeable counter staff, excellent service, good parts availability, including common items always in stock.

More than one saw, big crapshoot, really depends on size and quantity of wood that needs cutting, budget, etc.


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## flotek (Dec 23, 2015)

290 is a decent homeowner saw .yeah it isn't the best mid 50's cc saw but it's a workhorse . If all you do is occasional firewood cutting I would run it . I mean if it's reliable and cutting why blow 500 on anything else . They are heavy and slow and archaic in design but as mentioned bulletproof and a capable saw for the money that isn't made in some crap hole in China. If your dead set on stepping up to a great midrange saw I'd look at the husky 562xp auto tune. Light fast powerful and light years ahead in technology


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## 066blaster (Dec 23, 2015)

I have cut a lot with my 290. I did a muffler mod on mine and it really gave it more power. I even ran a 25 inch bar on mine for a few big oaks and it worked fine. Plus they hold there value if you keep them looking good. I still use it for medium duty cutting and softer wood.


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## moondoggie (Dec 23, 2015)

Husqvarna 445 mine has been bullet proof. Will pull an 18" Stihl chain nicely. I bought an Oregon pro lite bar 3 years ago for it couple hundred cords later same bar.


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## Dirtboy (Dec 24, 2015)

I been using my Echo CS345(16") and CS520 (18") saws for many years. With proper maintenance they are hard to beat. I also would recommend purchasing from a dealer.
If your not cutting that much, you might want to try the Jonsered 2255 with a 20" bar. I picked one up cheap at TSC 3 years ago because I wanted a little extra bar occasionally. It surprised me, well made and really throws the chips with a full chisel chain. Usually I only buy stuff from dealers, but took a chance because of the price. I would not have at full price.


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## robson1015 (Dec 24, 2015)

Stihl 038 . worked it for 20+ years and still works great. New fuel tank and dropped it out of a tree but still the best saw I ever owned.


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## CrufflerJJ (Dec 25, 2015)

Sagetown said:


> ...snip...If U stay on-line here, I don't know how long your will power can resist the temptations of a pro saw. Best to stay away from those articles.



What are you talking about? 

I've been a member here about a year, and I've only gone from a single saw (MS250) to SEVEN (including 562XP, 395XP,...). That's not a problem, is it? Of course, there's also the two Husky 51 "project" saws that are in pieces on my bench.


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## captjack (Dec 25, 2015)

046 magnum lmao just kidding .......


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## Sagetown (Dec 25, 2015)

CrufflerJJ said:


> What are you talking about?
> 
> I've been a member here about a year, and I've only gone from a single saw (MS250) to SEVEN (including 562XP, 395XP,...). That's not a problem, is it? Of course, there's also the two Husky 51 "project" saws that are in pieces on my bench.


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## CrufflerJJ (Dec 25, 2015)

Sagetown said:


>



...plus the tools, boxes of parts,....


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## longbowch (Dec 25, 2015)

545


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## sunfish (Dec 25, 2015)

longbowch said:


> 545
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yep


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## cre73 (Dec 25, 2015)

I agree with a couple of the posts above. The ms250 has a good weight to power ratio. It has became my go to saw recently. I also like the echo's I was considering a cs600 until I stumbled onto an old pristine homelite 925XL.


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## Ironworker (Dec 26, 2015)

Get the best saw that you can afford, over the course of a life time it is well worth it.


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## Brewz (Dec 26, 2015)

I have only ever used Stihl's so can only comment on them. I have nothing against Husky's and recon they are great too but I just know Stihl's so its what I use.

I started out with an 039 for firewood, which is your 290's big brother with a 64cc motor.
I modded the muffler and it goes like stink. It handles a 30" bar if you take your time so I will concur that if you want one saw for firewood, something around 60cc is where the money is!

I got curious about modifying my 039 for more power to drive the big bar as cutting big 4 foot thick eucalyptus with a small saw is like carving stone with a plastic spoon. I ended up buying an 066 Magnum as I was going to kill the 039 and its oil pump wasn't rated to supply the big bar with enough oil.
WOW...... what a machine! about 10 to 20% heavier but double the power.
I was officially sold on the pro saw idea!

I have now bought a Stihl 026 which is a pro 49cc saw that I will use for limning and smaller trees. The 066 eats anything over 8" like its butter.
I am now going to sell the 039, as much as I love it as I doubt it will get fueled up again.

Considerations:
I am fortunate enough to be able to repair most anything myself so its only cost in parts, and I enjoy fixing things, but if you cant or dont want to, buy new! IMO Second hand saws are worse than second hand cars!
To choose a saw, consider what size and type of wood you will be cutting and also volumes.
If you cut smaller wood under 18 to 20" thick, your 290 will do that job fine.
Do some googling on muffler mods and when you have drilled out the holes, tune it or take itto a dealer to have it tuned properly as it will run leaner with the increased air flow and may kill it.

If you will be cutting large timber regularly, you may want to consider a larger saw for the hard work and something smaller to zip through all the small bits without wearing yourself out, although from what I have seen, timber in much different here in Australia. Half the work is limning out which is not something I want to do with an 91cc 066 Magnum.

Then you will start reading more here........ you will want more power......... you will buy a compression tester......... then start learning about porting, measuring squish, polishing transfers...........

RUN!.............. RUN FOR YOUR LIFE


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## livemusic (Dec 26, 2015)

Will a dealer 'match' the Home Depot price for the Echo ms-290 or is that unusual? Actually, if a dealer would tune it, and I guess surely he would, I wouldn't mind paying a little extra but a large difference would give me cause for pause, especially since I have not been too happy with my repair story of late.

If I don't get the ms-290 set to my liking, I am eyeballing that Echo cs-590.


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## WorkinDirt (Dec 26, 2015)

First post, I apologize if I missed the new member introduction but I did not see a section for that. 

Just purchased a MS 271 Farm Boss for this exact reason. I do not heat with wood and use it to clear the woods behind my house of saplings and cutting up already dead trees for the firepit. Has a 20" bar and it runs well. Would like to have an adjustable oiler but it hasnt been an issue yet. I dont see much love for the 271 farm boss.


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## wej52 (Dec 26, 2015)

Another vote for an MS 250. With a 7 tooth drive sprocket it is a very efficient saw. At the end of a long day you will find it more comfortable than the heavier saws. No question that it will not cut as fast as a larger saw, but for firewood it has a very good weight/power combination. I have an 038 Magnum Stihl, but will grab the 250 for 90% of my cutting. W. Jones


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## stumpy75 (Dec 26, 2015)

Sagetown said:


> IMHO the MS290 is a bit heavy, but it's a very durable saw, and can take a lot of abuse in unskilled hands. Lots of farmer have more than one at any given time. I like my MS 211, but it may be a lil small for your liking. .



See my saws in my sig. I tend to go to the MS 210 for a lot of the cutting I do also, as most is under 12". Keep the chain sharp, and it does a good job. I cut about 5-6 cords a year. The MS261 I have is for the occasional bigger wood I get into, such as some 30" ash I was given, as well as a falling saw. Got a great deal on a used one, so I couldn't pass it up. Lots of difference in size, weight and power between the two saws, but I prefer the MS210 most of the time.


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## zogger (Dec 26, 2015)

WorkinDirt said:


> First post, I apologize if I missed the new member introduction but I did not see a section for that.
> 
> Just purchased a MS 271 Farm Boss for this exact reason. I do not heat with wood and use it to clear the woods behind my house of saplings and cutting up already dead trees for the firepit. Has a 20" bar and it runs well. Would like to have an adjustable oiler but it hasnt been an issue yet. I dont see much love for the 271 farm boss.



Howdy! I don't think too many guys have them yet. I know I have never even seen one, local stihl guy went bust. I'm sticking with huskies and old poulans mostly.


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## Axlerod74 (Dec 26, 2015)

moondoggie said:


> Husqvarna 445 mine has been bullet proof. Will pull an 18" Stihl chain nicely. I bought an Oregon pro lite bar 3 years ago for it couple hundred cords later same bar.



My Dad is about 68 and has cut his own firewood for most of those years. He has owned many saws including a MS-290 and he will pick up his Husqvarna 445 for 90% of his cutting work. I am not saying it is for you but it is pretty light, runs a 16" bar great and can pull a 18" (especially with narrow kerf). With primer bulb and decompression release they are easy to start. As others have mentioned, the Stihl MS-250 is a similar sized saw and are pretty dependable also. Since you are already familiar with the way Stihl saws handle and their controls, you might like this one. I prefer Husqvarna saws but I work on my own. If I were in your situation, I would go to a dealer with a dedicated service / repair shop who employs people who know how to work on saws (reguardless of brand). Even finding a replacement bar or chain can be a challenge at the big name stores. One note worth mentioning on the Echo brand is that they have a 5 year consumer warranty. This is pretty amazing in today's day and time. Some Echo dealerships have a repair shop at the back too. I do not own any Echo saws but the dealers I talk to seem to get very few brought back for frequent repairs. The 590 is a great price point but if it seems a little heavy, check out the 490.


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## Wood Doctor (Dec 26, 2015)

If I had to throw away all of my saws and keep one, my Stihl MS361 would remain. Here it is in 2008:





It runs today the same way it did back then. I probably have over 500 hours of operation on it. I also own an MS290 that runs well, but it doesn't get used very much.


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## livemusic (Dec 26, 2015)

turnkey4099 said:


> Lots of good advice here. best all around chainsaw for moderate amount of use is one that will run a 20" bar. Those saws will also run a 24" bar skiptooth if needed. That was my one saw stable back when I started in 1976. Many years later before I started adding saws. My 'go-to' is still a saw with a 20" bar. All the others in the stable are 'purpose use" saws, i.e, MS192T for brushing, MS441/32" and 28" bars for the big stuff (rarely used for that but it has turned into one noodling fool with a 20" bar), MS361 with 24" bucking/felling. Still pack my old MS310 as a backup in case one of the others packs it in.
> 
> Yes, I am all Stihl. and one main reasone is the inboard clutch. Allows dropping the powerhead off when you stick a bar. Have had to do that more times than I care to recall.
> 
> ...



Does the Stihl ms-250 have that?

If one were to buy an Echo or a Husky, does it not have the inboard clutch such that I could get it out? What do you do if you stick a bar? I have always been able to free my bar, but I have not cut that much firewood.

I keep gravitating towards a lighter saw. I see that the ms250 is 10.1 lb. There is also a 251 Wood Boss and a 251 CB-E and they get progressively heavier. Not sure what the major differences are.

I am not married to Stihl, I could go with Echo or Husqvarna. All three manufacturers have dealers within 45 minute drive. However, I am kind of intrigued with Stihl's 2-in-1 sharpening system, lol. Seems I could learn to use that. Hmmm... Stihl, Echo, Husky.

I am just thinking even if I get this ms-290 to run right, I might trade it, as for someone like me, a lighter saw might be better.


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## JeffGu (Dec 26, 2015)

livemusic said:


> Will a dealer 'match' the Home Depot price for the Echo ms-290 or is that unusual?



My Stihl/Echo dealer's prices are as good or better than any of the big box stores on the Echo saws.


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## Wood Doctor (Dec 26, 2015)

livemusic said:


> Does the Stihl ms-250 have that?
> 
> If one were to buy an Echo or a Husky, does it not have the inboard clutch such that I could get it out? What do you do if you stick a bar? I have always been able to free my bar, but I have not cut that much firewood.
> 
> ...


You don't have to buy a new Stihl. One of the best firewood saws I have is a Stihl 026 PRO that I bought used. Runs like a bandit and will pull an 18" bar. I imagine it weighs 3 lb less than an MS290. $220 got it on board.


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## Deleted member 116684 (Dec 26, 2015)

I've got a muffler modded 290 and it does fine. Can pull a 20 inch chain without a problem. I also have a 362 and really enjoy using it. It cuts smoother and better, so I use it almost all the time now. I think anything over that would be great, just not necessary for occasional fire wood cutting. But IF I had the money to throw at it, a new 70 cc saw would be fun...


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## Deleted member 83629 (Dec 26, 2015)

husqvarna 545,555 chose either i love my 545.


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## Ferguson system (Dec 26, 2015)

one more vote for Husky 545/Jonsered 2252.


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## turnkey4099 (Dec 26, 2015)

Wood Doctor said:


> If I had to throw away all of my saws and keep one, my Stihl MS361 would remain. Here it is in 2008:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Same here but I would have a hard time giving up the MS441.


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## RedEyedRooster (Dec 26, 2015)

I like my 2009 MS361 with a 20" bar als0 have a 25" bar for bigger logs. Weights about the same as MS290 12.5lbs. Ms290 is 55.5cc, MS362 C-M now is 59cc. Cost is about a third more for MS362C-M $730.00 I replaced some dry rotted hoses last year but other than that has been reliable as long as you know when it tries to start, flip the chock off and after you've warmed it up you don't need to use the compression relief anymore to start. I fill about 7-8 racks 10ft long and 4.5ft high every year.


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## Wood Doctor (Dec 26, 2015)

turnkey4099 said:


> Same here but I would have a hard time giving up the MS441.


I would have a hard time giving up most of my saws. I never realized how nice it is to have a big saw when bucking or noodle cutting big rounds, and during that past few years, that has become important. Limbs and tree tops are now being mulched up that I used to have available for firewood. That has also made a log splitter even more important.

I'm surprised nobody recommended Echo here. Kioritz Corp. makes some very fine saws. Oops! It did get mentioned. They are hard to kill and seem to always start.


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## zogger (Dec 26, 2015)

livemusic said:


> Does the Stihl ms-250 have that?
> 
> If one were to buy an Echo or a Husky, does it not have the inboard clutch such that I could get it out? What do you do if you stick a bar? I have always been able to free my bar, but I have not cut that much firewood.
> 
> ...



If you mean that hand sharpener that does the cutters and depth gauges at the same time, Stihl doesn't make it, just sticks their name on it. Pferd makes them for other companies and under their own name. I have their older design, but it works the same, and works well. They are not brand specific, they are chain pitch specific.

http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201b/201b01/201b0105.html

As to unsticking a bar, wedges are the first choice.


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## Wood Doctor (Dec 26, 2015)

zogger said:


> If you mean that hand sharpener that does the cutters and depth gauges at the same time, Stihl doesn't make it, just sticks their name on it. Pferd makes them for other companies and under their own name. I have their older design, but it works the same, and works well. They are not brand specific, they are chain pitch specific.
> 
> http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201b/201b01/201b0105.html
> 
> As to unsticking a bar, wedges are the first choice.


Wedges are also my first choice for freeing up a trapped bar. I keep a few of these handy that I make in the shop:





Actually, the best defense is to be careful to remove the bar before it's trapped and roll the log. Or support the log underneath before you start to buck.


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## Gugi47 (Dec 26, 2015)

If you check my sign, I have some sow's and more not listed. I got offer $375 for my MS290 and I say NO.
I have hard time to sale any of my saw's. I like them all.
The MS290 is a great saw, I never have problem with. Like with all saw's is important the tuneup. And to keep clean them all the time.
I sugest to stay with the MS290. You have pay for it and if the mechanic have a good adjustment down, that saw will serve you for many years.
Important to use 93/94 octave gas if is posible, no methanol an synthetic 2 cycle oil. Good luck my friend.


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## Sagetown (Dec 26, 2015)

Wood Doctor said:


> If I had to throw away all of my saws and keep one, my Stihl MS361 would remain. Here it is in 2008:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


WooHoo ! Alright !; If the OP could only find a used one in that good a shape. I don't think he's quite ready jump in as deep as I did with a MS362C


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## flotek (Dec 26, 2015)

Husqvarna 562 or for lighter use the 555 . Stihl aren't terrible but your usually paying more for heavier slower saw . Echo I wouldn't even consider . Their medium duty stuff is weak and cheaply made IMHO


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## livemusic (Dec 26, 2015)

If you have a good-running saw that is, say, around 10 lb without bar/chain and a good-running saw that is, say, 13 lb without bar/chain, is it safe to say that cutting firewood (within the capabilities of the saw) would be more enjoyable and less tiring (even safer?) with the lighter saw? I keep thinking I would be better off with a 45cc to 50cc saw and then just cut within the limitations... reject whatever wood is 'too much for it.' Sorry for the ignorance, lol.


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## Wood Doctor (Dec 26, 2015)

livemusic said:


> If you have a good-running saw that is, say, around 10 lb without bar/chain and a good-running saw that is, say, 13 lb with bar/chain, is it safe to say that cutting firewood (within the capabilities of the saw) would be more enjoyable and less tiring (even safer?) with the lighter saw? I keep thinking I would be better off with a 45cc to 50cc saw and then just cut within the limitations... reject whatever wood is 'too much for it.' Sorry for the ignorance, lol.



The HP/weight ratio remains one of the most important specs that I look for when buying a chain saw. The higher that fraction is, the better that saw usually performs for me. That's why I bought a new Stihl MS361 in 2008, one of the best chain saws ever made. Four more in that category that have been discontinued are the Husky 353, the bigger Husky 357XL, the Stihl 026 PRO, and the bigger Stihl 046 Mag.


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## zogger (Dec 26, 2015)

livemusic said:


> If you have a good-running saw that is, say, around 10 lb without bar/chain and a good-running saw that is, say, 13 lb without bar/chain, is it safe to say that cutting firewood (within the capabilities of the saw) would be more enjoyable and less tiring (even safer?) with the lighter saw? I keep thinking I would be better off with a 45cc to 50cc saw and then just cut within the limitations... reject whatever wood is 'too much for it.' Sorry for the ignorance, lol.


You just never know what you will need. There is a legit use for all sizes of saws. the very smallest and very largest you might not use *much* but when you need them, it makes the job so much easier.

As to large wood, man, that's when you are really productive with mass quantities.

And as to scrounging, a lot of guys here have great luck scrounging big trunkwood that other guys pass by, as they only have small saws.

I like all of it, I love cutting smalls/branches with a small saw and moving "briskly", and I love cutting whoppers. It's all fun. And getting nailed with the tornado cured me of thinking one small saw was enough...

But like I have said before, to start with, one saw to do it all, around a 60 or even better, a pro ported 50. INSTANT ADDICTION! hahahaha light weight, super duper powah, what's not to like?


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## Sagetown (Dec 26, 2015)

livemusic said:


> If you have a good-running saw that is, say, around 10 lb without bar/chain and a good-running saw that is, say, 13 lb without bar/chain, is it safe to say that cutting firewood (within the capabilities of the saw) would be more enjoyable and less tiring (even safer?) with the lighter saw? I keep thinking I would be better off with a 45cc to 50cc saw and then just cut within the limitations... reject whatever wood is 'too much for it.' Sorry for the ignorance, lol.


More enjoyable cutting with a lighter saw ? Not for this old man. 
Less tiring ? An average man most usually handles heavier tools differently to accomplish the same goal w/o over-exhausting himself. Is a lighter saw more safe than a heavy saw? As long as it isn't running, it's safer. Once they are running, safety depends solely on the operator, and that consists of many factors.


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## JeffGu (Dec 26, 2015)

You might also consider this... if you get into some big, tough wood with a little saw, you may be fighting for quite awhile with a 12 lb. saw. Break out that big 16 lb. saw and you might be done in a minute or so. That extra weight isn't always what's wearing you down. Might be muscling a smaller saw around for too long. That's an advantage to having several saws. You can set them out on the tailgate of your pickup and attack a felled tree with the little, light saws first... moving to a bigger one as soon as you feel you're wasting a lot of time on the cuts. Eventually, you'll be using your big saw... but probably for a very short time.

Usually, working smarter is a lot less tiring than trying to work harder.


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## turnkey4099 (Dec 27, 2015)

zogger said:


> If you mean that hand sharpener that does the cutters and depth gauges at the same time, Stihl doesn't make it, just sticks their name on it. Pferd makes them for other companies and under their own name. I have their older design, but it works the same, and works well. They are not brand specific, they are chain pitch specific.
> 
> http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201b/201b01/201b0105.html
> 
> As to unsticking a bar, wedges are the first choice.



And fail most of the time.

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Dec 27, 2015)

Wood Doctor said:


> Wedges are also my first choice for freeing up a trapped bar. I keep a few of these handy that I make in the shop:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Most of my trapped bars have been while felling bad leaners.


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## svk (Dec 27, 2015)

If you are looking at homeowner grade saws then I'd say Husky 450 if you do a lot of limbing and bucking of smaller wood or the Echo 590 if you are doing larger wood. 

If you want to spend a little more, Husky 550 or 562 are excellent saws.


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## Brewz (Dec 27, 2015)

I was out all day today cutting firewood.
We had about 30 rounds of hardwood that were 3 feet rounds and 1 foot thick that needed to be halved so we could lift them. I'm talking 900kg per cubic meter dense hard eucalyptus.
I could noodle them longways faster than my brother could stand them up with my 066
Fired up my 039 for a run and it did the job but was slower going.
Both saws run well modded mufflers and are tuned to 4stroke in the cut.
The slower saw just ends up being more time running the saw when you are cutting for hours.
Yes the 066 is heavier, but not by much and you only hold the weight between cuts. 

When cutting anything over 10" thick, I will use the heavier 066 over a smaller saw as it just ends up less work at the end of the day, and I am talking close on twice the cut speed.

I started out thinking a smaller saw would be better as it is lighter but I now find the bigger heavier saw to be less work when cutting.
I wouldn't start out with a 90+cc saw though....... they are vicious animals if you are inexperienced.
Get something mid sized and when you get some saw time up, see if you can have a run of something bigger so see how you go.
Its a preference thing but I am just trying to add some alternate opinion, not confuse the issue.

As I said before..... It depends on what you plan to cut and how big the timber will be.
I personally tackle hardwood up to 4 feet thick so a bigger saw is my friend.


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## Brewz (Dec 27, 2015)

Thats a vid showing a good comparison between an MS660 and MS260 in really hard Aussie wood.

I would rather be swinging 91cc saw as you will be done in half the time


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## mga (Dec 27, 2015)

why on earth would a home owner spend several hundred dollars on a saw he'll use maybe twice a year?

just about any saw works great if the chain is sharp.


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## Rockarosa (Dec 27, 2015)

I've used my Stihl MS 290 fro 6 years and cut around 12 cords a year. I recently bought a new Stihl 362. I cannot believe how much more power this has over the 290. It does not weigh that much more but it can really go through the wood. I can cut twice the amount of wood with this saw. Love it!


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## turnkey4099 (Dec 27, 2015)

I bought my MS310 in the early years of production - one of the great home owner saws.

Bought the MS361 in the 2nd year of production. No comparison between the two, 361 is far faster but I still use the 310 as a backup.

I had problems starting the 361 until I learned not to use the compression release. I also crank the 441 without using CR.

Harry K


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## benp (Dec 27, 2015)

I like my little 510 Dolmar.

For 300 or so bucks I think it is hard to beat for an all metal saw.

It's a little torque monster that pulls 3/8" no sweat. 

I only recommend one if you have a dealer near though.

Lots of good suggestions have been given all ready.


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## sb47 (Dec 28, 2015)

livemusic said:


> After paying $280 for my Stihl ms290, which was supposedly "made ready" to go by a knowledgeable seller, I have now spent an additional $100 on it to get it to run right. That doesn't seem like a very wise move... I wonder should I have just bought new and I wonder how much a good saw for me would cost new. I'm still trying to get this one right, lol, but if I don't get it done via suggestions on here, I'll take it to a different mechanic who has been recommended.
> 
> So, what do you think is a good chainsaw for somebody who does not cut a lot of wood. A few cords/year at most, since it doesn't get that cold here. That isn't much compared to you guys. And the occasional use in my yard; trees sometimes die, etc.
> 
> ...



I have an MS 290 that's at least 15 years old and cuts everything I throw at it. 
I'm still running the original spark plug.
Just remember, the more power, the more muscle you need to control it.
I have bigger saws but they take more muscle to hang on to them.
The MS 290 is hard to beat.


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## Saddle Mander (Dec 28, 2015)

mga said:


> why on earth would a home owner spend several hundred dollars on a saw he'll use maybe twice a year?
> 
> just about any saw works great if the chain is sharp.



That's what I was quietly thinking. I have a Poulan Pro PP5020AV that I've been very happy with. I got it for $200 at Lowes with a 2-yr warranty. I figured even if it crapped out, I'd get a replacement and get 4 years out of my $200. As long as I keep the chain sharp, it cuts like a dream.

I'm not saying it's the best thing out there, but I highly recommend it for home owner use.


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## sunfish (Dec 28, 2015)

Saddle Mander said:


> That's what I was quietly thinking. I have a Poulan Pro PP5020AV that I've been very happy with. I got it for $200 at Lowes with a 2-yr warranty. I figured even if it crapped out, I'd get a replacement and get 4 years out of my $200. It's basically a Husqvarna 455 Rancher with a different paint job. As long as I keep the chain sharp, it cuts like a dream.
> 
> I'm not saying it's the best thing out there, but I highly recommend it for home owner use.


The PP5020AV is a completely different saw than a Husq 455 Rancher. Not even the same cc size.


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## svk (Dec 28, 2015)

sunfish said:


> The PP5020AV is a completely different saw than a Husq 455 Rancher. Not even the same cc size.


Correct, not even close to the same. If you compare the prices you get what you pay for. The 5020 isn't a bad saw for 180 bucks but it's not in the same universe as a Husky 450 which is the same cc.


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## Axlerod74 (Dec 30, 2015)

livemusic said:


> If you have a good-running saw that is, say, around 10 lb without bar/chain and a good-running saw that is, say, 13 lb without bar/chain, is it safe to say that cutting firewood (within the capabilities of the saw) would be more enjoyable and less tiring (even safer?) with the lighter saw? I keep thinking I would be better off with a 45cc to 50cc saw and then just cut within the limitations... reject whatever wood is 'too much for it.' Sorry for the ignorance, lol.



No ignorance in this post at all. Many people waste a bunch of money on the wrong saw(s) only to learn the hard way what you just said. It depends on what size wood you expect to be using the saw for. If you expect to cut some larger trunk sections, a bigger saw makes a big difference in work load. If you generally cut the smaller stuff, the lighter saw is a big advantage. One saw to do it all generally means you have to compromise something............often a little more weight and money for more power.


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## livemusic (Dec 31, 2015)

Rockarosa said:


> I've used my Stihl MS 290 fro 6 years and cut around 12 cords a year. I recently bought a new Stihl 362. I cannot believe how much more power this has over the 290. It does not weigh that much more but it can really go through the wood. I can cut twice the amount of wood with this saw. Love it!



I looked at that 362. I think specs say 12.8 lbs. The ms290 says 13 lbs, so, your new 362 actually weighs a tiny bit less? But I think it has a full one horsepower more!


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## sunfish (Dec 31, 2015)

livemusic said:


> I looked at that 362. I think specs say 12.8 lbs. The ms290 says 13 lbs, so, your new 362 actually weighs a tiny bit less? But I think it has a full one horsepower more!


290 is heavy & chunky. Pro saws be lighter, metal case and more power.

Power to weight/size/slimness goes to Husq pro saws.


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## Idahonative (Dec 31, 2015)

There are a lot of great saws out there, especially if price is no object. But as far as price vs. performance goes, there are no other new saws that can compete with these:

*50cc - Echo cs-490*. Lightest 50cc at 10.6 lbs. and built like the pro 500p except for the plastic handle and laminated bar. Can be had on Ebay for *$315*/free shipping/no sales tax.

*60cc - Echo cs-590*. With fluids, the weight (15.19 lbs) is nearly identical to the ms362 (15.16 lbs) and 562xp (15.11 lbs). Shares many of the pro features of the 600p & 620p. Best place to buy is Home Depot if you are, or know someone who is in the military...*$360* with military discount.

The fact that you are willing to do a MM (and don't care about the warranty) makes those two saws even more appealing. High quality, split case, easy starting, stone simple, and reliable.


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## muddstopper (Dec 31, 2015)

I use two saw most of the time, both Husky's. A 55 and a 362. I found this takes care of the majority of my cutting. I usually reserve the 362 for falling and bucking and the lighter 55 for limbing.Both saws with 20in bars. Since my shoulder surgery, I have been consider swapping the 362 huskey for one of the sthil 362's. The sthil model is about a pound lighter than the 362 huskey and about a lb heavier than the huskey 55. Power level pretty close to the 365xp. I did get to watch my bil do a little cutting with the sthil 362 this week and It seemed to be a very capable saw. Just wish he would have let me run it, but I guess he wanted to wear the new off of it. I should add that we had a huskey 372 there while we where cutting and never even cranked it up.


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## MountainHigh (Dec 31, 2015)

Axlerod74 said:


> No ignorance in this post at all. Many people waste a bunch of money on the wrong saw(s) only to learn the hard way what you just said. * It depends on what size wood you expect to be using the saw for*. If you expect to cut some larger trunk sections, a bigger saw makes a big difference in work load. If you generally cut the smaller stuff, the lighter saw is a big advantage. One saw to do it all generally means you have to compromise something............often a little more weight and money for more power.



YEP!

*You've said you don't want a heavy saw* (a 290 feels like a boat anchor to me) so *IF you will not be getting into wood over 20"*, any decent 50cc saw will do the job and be light and easy to handle - but if you can, *you might as well at least buy a semi-pro saw*.

My favourite 50cc saws when* stepping up from homeowner saws are Husky 545* /18" bar, and if you really want to splurge the 550xp, but to save a few dollars just get the 545 - it will be more than you need. You might also look at a new Stihl 261cm as they are just going through a model refresh and look to be lighter than the old one.

These semi-pro/pro saws will outperform the steady-eddy homeowner MS250, are built better than homeowner saws and are a worthwhile step up from all the other BigBox 50cc equivalents if you don't mind spending a bit more money. An added bonus, you won't get buyers remorse 

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/products/chainsaws/545/966648501/


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## spike60 (Jan 1, 2016)

zogger said:


> A single saw? Any brand 60cc pro saw, from whatever local dealer is the best. By best, knowledgeable counter staff, excellent service, good parts availability, including common items always in stock.
> 
> More than one saw, big crapshoot, really depends on size and quantity of wood that needs cutting, budget, etc.



Well said. And not enough folks consider what you mentioned about the size of the wood that will be cut. IMO the size of the wood is more important than "how many cords". A guy can burn 8 cords a year, but may live in an area where he rarely sees a tree larger than 10". Are you cutting on a pile of logs that was delivered or are you in the woods felling and limbing? Firewood all looks the same when it's split and stacked, but there's different routes to get there. I agree with the consensus here that a 60cc saw is generally the best choice. It maximizes your capability in a package that is comfortable for most saw users. 

But there are times when it's more important to match a saw to the user than to the job at hand, because not everyone can handle the typical 60cc saw. Lot's of gals and old timers need something lighter and easier to start. So, they'll run saws that are in the 40cc class and have spring assist starters. Obviously there are some limitations as to what they can cut, but you can't cut anything with a saw you can't start. So, these folks generally stay within the range of the saw's capability, and you'd be surprised at how much wood they will put up with these little saws.


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## muddstopper (Jan 1, 2016)

Spike, you touched on a very good point about size. I really like my husky 362 and it will handle the majority of any wood I am likely to encounter. The caveat here is that I am getting older and running the 362 limbing just about killed my shoulder. That is why I am thinking about the sthil 362, it is a lighter saw with all the power of the heavier husky. I have a 20in bar on my 55 as well, I set it up this way because it means only needing one size chain for either saw. The 55 came with a 18in bar and .325 chain. I have the bar and chains hanging in the shop. I am considering putting them back on the 55. I feel not only will I save a little weight, the saw will probably cut faster with the shorter bar and smaller chain as well. I have felled 4ft dia trees with 18in bars before, not the best tool for the job, but it will get it done. My 362 or even a 395xp could have been better choices, but what good is a big saw if you cant carry it or get it started.


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## flotek (Jan 1, 2016)

The title says " best firewood saw for a homeowner " if you want the "best "now your in pro saw territory . I don't think for a general homeowner who will use this exclusively to cut firewood you could find a lighter faster more nimble and high tech saw than a husky 555 .now if you planned to cut bigger wood say for a owb or more than say 5-6 cords a year then I'd opt to grab the bigger brother - the 562xp .. The Stihl 362 I found unimpressive compared to the husky 562xp ..Dolmar also makes a great saw and my next favorite ,but you will want dealer support in your area


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## muddstopper (Jan 1, 2016)

I havent looked at the 562xp saws, did they finally get all the bugs out of the saw, the hot start issues and bolts backing out of the case.

edit, I did a quick search and found the 562 is a little bigger cc than the 362, but both are rated at same hp. I assume the 562 should have a slight edge in torque, but didnt find numbers to support this. Weight of both saws is the same. The sthil 362 list for about $100 more than the 562. I will certainly test a 562 and the 362 before making a purchase. For the $100 difference in price, I know which way I am leaning


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## Homelite410 (Jan 1, 2016)

I am going to tell you to buy a saw that has a good dealer support that's close by.


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## spike60 (Jan 1, 2016)

flotek said:


> The title says " best firewood saw for a homeowner " if you want the "best "now your in pro saw territory . I don't think for a general homeowner who will use this exclusively to cut firewood you could find a lighter faster more nimble and high tech saw than a husky 555 .now if you planned to cut bigger wood say for a owb or more than say 5-6 cords a year then I'd opt to grab the bigger brother - the 562xp .. The Stihl 362 I found unimpressive compared to the husky 562xp ..Dolmar also makes a great saw and my next favorite ,but you will want dealer support in your area



Completely agree! 

Looking at the costs involved, both in what you spend and in what you save with wood heat, I don't understand staying at the low end of the price ladder with saws such as that Poulan Pro 5020 which i think is just garbage. First take into account the costs of the stove/chimney, a vehicle to haul the wood, maybe putting up a woodshed to store it. It's a worth while investment because you are going to save thousands of dollars every year on heating costs. That same reasoning ought to appy to the chainsaw. Don't just think about the extra $100-$200 you spend the day you buy the saw. Think about the next 10-20 years of using it. Think about the difference between, "I'm really glad I got this saw", vs. "I guess it's OK."


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## Idahonative (Jan 1, 2016)

@spike60: [Completely agree! Looking at the costs involved, both in what you spend and in what you save with wood heat,* I don't understand staying at the low end of the price ladder* with saws such as that Poulan Pro 5020 which i think is just garbage. First take into account the costs of the stove/chimney, a vehicle to haul the wood, maybe putting up a woodshed to store it. It's a worth while investment because you are going to save thousands of dollars every year on heating costs. That same reasoning ought to appy to the chainsaw. Don't just think about the extra $100-$200 you spend the day you buy the saw. *Think about the next 10-20 years of using it.* Think about the difference between, *"I'm really glad I got this saw", vs. "I guess it's OK*."]

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A person can stay at the low end of the price ladder with a 50cc Echo cs-490 or a 60cc Echo cs-590 and still have a saw that will give them everything you are suggesting. And most definitely give the OP what he's looking for. Most of the guys who have one would fall into the "I'm really glad I got this saw" category. There's no reason for a homeowner to spend $600-$700 on a chainsaw...unless they have the money and just want to. More so since the OP suggested he is willing to do some basic mods which the Echo's love.


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## Sagetown (Jan 1, 2016)

Homelite410 said:


> I am going to tell you to buy a saw that has a good dealer support that's close by.


  - - - - - =-


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## spike60 (Jan 1, 2016)

Nothing wrong with Echos Idaho. Really great saws that are usually underated IMO. And great values with a couple of those discounted models you mention. 

Unnecessary though, for you to always look for every possible opportunity to beat the Echo drum in these threads. Really doesn't add much to the discussion. We get it. You love your Echos.


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## Idahonative (Jan 1, 2016)

spike60 said:


> Nothing wrong with Echos Idaho. Really great saws that are usually underated IMO. And great values with a couple of those discounted models you mention.
> 
> Unnecessary though, for you to always look for every possible opportunity to *beat the Echo drum* in these threads. *Really doesn't add much to the discussion*. We get it. You love your Echos.



When it comes down to it, really doesn't matter to me what a person runs. The OP asked a question and I believe my response was appropriate for him. Is that beating the Echo drum? That opinion "really doesn't ad much to the discussion"? My opinion is different than yours so it's not necessary for me to post? Hey, I respect your opinion but you probably shouldn't tell everyone else how they feel. Let them hear the opinions and make those decisions for themselves. After all, the title of this thread is, *"Your opinion of best firewood chainsaw for homeowner".*

BTW: The vast majority of members on this site are not professionals. They are just common firewood cutters like myself. The fact is, when it comes to price vs. performance vs. quality, Echo fills that role better than most. So when a guy makes a post about a specific need and Echo meets that need, should guys like me just stay silent? I have respectfully posted my opinions and that is what this site is about. I find your statement about my opinions to be arrogant but typical whenever Echo enters the conversation...especially the homeowner models. Their price vs. performance seems to stir up a lot of emotion.


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## TreeswingerPerth (Jan 1, 2016)

Husky 365 takes a bit of beating as a firewood saw , only my opinion though !!


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## spike60 (Jan 1, 2016)

Idahonative said:


> The OP asked a question and I believe my response was appropriate for him. Is that beating the Echo drum? Their price vs. performance seems to stir up a lot of emotion.



Your response and opinions are just as valid as anyone else's. And the points you make regarding Echos are for the most part, dead on target. "Beating the drum" is when you PARTIALLY highlight a negative comment I made about the Poulan Pro 5020 so as to create an opening for you to repeat yourself.


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## Idahonative (Jan 1, 2016)

spike60 said:


> Your response and opinions are just as valid as anyone else's. And the points you make regarding Echos are for the most part, dead on target. *"Beating the drum" is when you PARTIALLY highlight a negative comment I made about the Poulan Pro 5020 so as to create an opening for you to repeat yourself*.



Hahaha. I think you give me too much credit...I'm not that smart. I am, after all, just a meat cutter.


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## spike60 (Jan 1, 2016)

Idahonative said:


> Hahaha. I think you give me too much credit...I'm not that smart. I am, after all, just a meat cutter.



And I'm just an equipment dealer. No smarter than you or anyone else. 

And you have four CS600's? No reason for a firewood cutter to spend unnecessary money on saws, huh?


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## Idahonative (Jan 1, 2016)

spike60 said:


> And I'm just an equipment dealer. No smarter than you or anyone else.
> 
> *And you have four CS600's*? No reason for a firewood cutter to spend unnecessary money on saws, huh?



Only using one. The other 3 are still NIB, one of which is going to TN. later this month. I made an offer on Ebay, not thinking they would really take it, but they did. Got them for the price of a cs-590.


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 16, 2016)

inmansc said:


> I've got a muffler modded 290 and it does fine. Can pull a 20 inch chain without a problem. I also have a 362 and really enjoy using it. It cuts smoother and better, so I use it almost all the time now. I think anything over that would be great, just not necessary for occasional fire wood cutting. But IF I had the money to throw at it, a new 70 cc saw would be fun...


Yes, it was fun for me to run my 046 Mag today. I had to cut some big oak and cottonwood using a 25" bar. All bucked rounds then had to be noodle cut in half before I could load them onto the tailgate by myself and haul them away to the splitter. That's when you really need the 70 cc saw. The MS 361 would have worked really hard but could have done it. On the other hand, the 046 Mag handled it with ease.


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## tla100 (Mar 17, 2016)

MS440 or 044 with 28" bar....


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## James Miller (Mar 17, 2016)

For me it was a echo 590-20 inch bar. Then a 490-16 inch bar for smaller stuff.


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## CoreyB (Mar 17, 2016)

I think there are a ton of great firewood saws. I like Dolmars because they fit my needs best and the best local dealer is a Dolmar dealer. 
I don't even consider buying a Stihl or Husqvarna locally because of the dealers or lack thereof of. 
I would look closely at echo and dolmar myself. One reason is i dislike an outboard clutch and 2, I can work on them and tune them. If I where to have auto tune / mtronic problems I would have to ship the saw somewhere and back so probably an added $60 in just shipping.
3 almost any small engine guy/ chainsaw shop can work on an echo or dolmar. Just may have to order parts.


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