# Logosol owners



## HandLogger (Oct 6, 2007)

Howdy,

I've posted once before about economical saw mills, which lead me to ponder the Logosol mills, specifically. 

I'd like to ask the M7 owners among us to comment on their mills. _*Have you run into limitations while using your mills?*_ For example, is it common practice to use another mill type -- say an Alaskan, a G&B or other CSM type mill -- to slab your saw logs prior to raising them up on your M7s? 

We will be milling some fairly decent sized Red Oak saw logs in the near future -- knock on wood  -- so the specifications of the M7 are a bit of a concern for us. We're fortunate enough to have some fairly straight, large diameter timber to choose from (20"+ dbh), so some of the saw logs will be quite heavy. In short, I was wondering how some of the M7 owners out there are dealing with logs such as these.

By the way, I have seen video of the M7 being inverted. Is that how heavy logs are normally handled when employing this type of mill? Also, we plan to have equipment on had to drag the logs around with.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts ...


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## Mad Professor (Oct 6, 2007)

I've got an older M5 logosol and I've milled both 25" dia X 12 ' ash and cherry logs. Probably at the limit or a bit over capacity but it handled them fine. I've also done 20 " X 15.5' ash, again no problem.

I think I could do 30"ers if I kept the lenght down to 8'.


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## Jonsered2095 (Oct 6, 2007)

M7 with 36" bar

Posts #3586-3589.


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## HandLogger (Oct 7, 2007)

*Thanks for the posts*

Thanks to the Professor and Jonsered for the information. 

Man, that massive Western Cedar saw log the M7 milled was really something to see. It must have been a real rush for the sawyer just after he sprayed down that great grain. Beautiful photos!

*Any other M7 owners care to join in?* opcorn: 

Have a great Sunday ...


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## Matildasmate (Oct 7, 2007)

*Logosol Australian price list*

Logosol Australian price list pdf


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## Jonsered2095 (Oct 7, 2007)

HandLogger said:


> Thanks to the Professor and Jonsered for the information.
> 
> Man, that massive Western Cedar saw log the M7 milled was really something to see. It must have been a real rush for the sawyer just after he sprayed down that great grain. Beautiful photos!
> 
> ...



Did you notice the concrete blocks!!! Don't squash it.

I have been wondering just how long a bar can be used like that without too much bend. It obviously works for this guy pretty well. Beautiful indeed!





Matildasmate said:


> Logosol Australian price list pdf



Thanks mate. I did'nt know they were downunder! Close enough to freight to NZ.


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## HandLogger (Oct 8, 2007)

*Right, don't squash it!*

*Jonsered*: Yep, I did notice the guy's "block" supports. Simple yet effective is often the best way to handle difficult problems, and this is no exception. 

I've got a question, however ... Considering that the M7 design raises and lowers the log *and not the saw*, how did the sawyer in question mill that log any further? I guess I should read the rest of the thread -- perhaps the answer is there.

Have a great weekend ...


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## Jonsered2095 (Oct 8, 2007)

*Good question...*



HandLogger said:


> *Jonsered*: Yep, I did notice the guy's "block" supports. Simple yet effective is often the best way to handle difficult problems, and this is no exception.
> 
> I've got a question, however ... Considering that the M7 design raises and lowers the log *and not the saw*, how did the sawyer in question mill that log any further? I guess I should read the rest of the thread -- perhaps the answer is there.
> 
> Have a great weekend ...



Maybe manually? Raise and chock.



If I make one like the Logosol it will be made from steel. Not very mobile I know. But solid.

Raise and lower of the log? I don't know yet. Hydraulic maybe. But must be solid.

Already had a great weekend... :biggrinbounce2: I'm in NZ.


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## Rodney Sinclair (Oct 8, 2007)

HandLogger said:


> *Jonsered*: Yep, I did notice the guy's "block" supports. Simple yet effective is often the best way to handle difficult problems, and this is no exception.
> 
> I've got a question, however ... Considering that the M7 design raises and lowers the log *and not the saw*, how did the sawyer in question mill that log any further? I guess I should read the rest of the thread -- perhaps the answer is there.
> 
> Have a great weekend ...



He said the top section was 1100 lbs. That's within the range of the M7.

Rodney


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## BobL (Oct 8, 2007)

Jonsered2095 said:


> Maybe manually? Raise and chock.
> 
> If I make one like the Logosol it will be made from steel. Not very mobile I know. But solid.
> 
> ...



Look at MatildasMates Avatar above. He uses two hydrualic jacks to raise and lower the logs.

Even using a CSM I always raise the log off the ground because I hate bending down and because I find it easier to use the CSM on a slope. I use a fork lift to place the logs on blocks or sometimes a couple of serious saw horses. I usually place one end about a ft of the ground and the other about 2 ft off the ground. After every couple of slabs I lift the high end using the fork lift and place a couple of 4"blocks under the long, This increases the slop of the log and make milling easier. The forklift is not always available so I am modifying a hi-lift jack to do the lifting.


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## Matildasmate (Oct 8, 2007)

*What I use to lift log*

What I use to lift log . Decent pic's hard to get , these are ok . 8 ton chinese jack's were cheap , about $60.00au ea , overkill but cheap and simple . Cheers MM


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## lmbeachy (Oct 8, 2007)

Ir you look at my posting on 1/22/2007 you will see how I answered my wants for a mill that was reasonably portable, cheap and still does a good job. due to other things that I had to do, I have not been able to do much cutting, however, I am planning to make some more improvements to it, such as adding an attachment to put water on the chain and better locks for holding flitches to be edged. Hope to get some of this done before long and to do some more cutting. lester (lmbeachy)


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## Matildasmate (Oct 8, 2007)

*winch's*

I had a look at Imbeachy's wooden mill design , I love the winch idea for lifting the log's , gunna have to work on getting them on my mill , I reckon they will be quite a bit faster than my jack's . Exellent job mate . Cheers MM ............ http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=777275


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## Jonsered2095 (Oct 8, 2007)

BobL said:


> Look at MatildasMates Avatar above. He uses two hydrualic jacks to raise and lower the logs.



Yep. This would be a solid option.  




Matildasmate said:


> What I use to lift log . Decent pic's hard to get , these are ok . 8 ton chinese jack's were cheap , about $60.00au ea , overkill but cheap and simple . Cheers MM



I prefer *overkill* so many things are under engineered I think.

From your pics it looks like you jack up the log table/ insert dressed timber chocks for board thickness + a thin strip of say ply for the kerf/ then drop the table back down/ then cut. Is this correct? How well does it work for you?


I like 'Helmet Cam'...HAha...excellent!






Nice looking rail and carriage system too. Is that a cantilever support for the bar? After seeing a 36" bar unsupported I was wondering [have been for some time] whether it is, or at what length it is necessary. Do you use it?

Thanks for sharing


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## Matildasmate (Oct 9, 2007)

*Chock's*



Jonsered2095 said:


> Yep. This would be a solid option.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Hi Jonsered 2095 Yeah the chock's are basically dressed pine with the ply piece's nailed to them , I have other chock's with and without the ply attached also , yes this system work's very well and very accurate . When I first started using my mill , I made plenty of mistake's and found a number of thing's about the Logosol type mill . *Bar support* . I found that without bar support the bar can wander up and down , if the chain is getting blunt , or you put too much pressure on chain , or chain not sharpened correctly , I only mill with a bar support unless bar is 18" or less , that's what that aluminum bit is for , it just has a slot in the end , that the bar just rest's in , no bolt's , rest's right on the center rivet of the sprocket nose , no bolts used or needed to maximize bar length . Also the table is just a ladder with ply screwed to it , this is to support the log especially when the cant get's thin , without support a thin cant , log start's to bend and flop around , also ladder excellent for short log's , I made some real sheet at time's , when I didn't use a support . also the ply backing is there to stop any protrusion's blocking the carriage path and I also use the backing board to hold timber against to keep it square when edging it . The rail , is just the other halve of the ladder , with some extra's . I need to modify the bar support yet , it is not adjustable yet , I only use a 36" bar at the moment , but will modify it to suit bar's from 20" onward's . Cheers MM


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## Jonsered2095 (Oct 9, 2007)

*Thanks MM*

I did not notice the convoluted rungs. You have done a nice job on the rail system none-the-less. Very professional looking and well executed.

I guess all projects have teething problems. But you have addressed a lot of concerns I have about this style mill and once I have addressed them also (still at design stage) I think it will be my mill of choice too.

Well done.


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## Matildasmate (Oct 10, 2007)

*Backing board*



Jonsered2095 said:


> I did not notice the convoluted rungs. You have done a nice job on the rail system none-the-less. Very professional looking and well executed.
> 
> I guess all projects have teething problems. But you have addressed a lot of concerns I have about this style mill and once I have addressed them also (still at design stage) I think it will be my mill of choice too.
> 
> Well done.



Also when setting up backing board , I made the ply higher than the saw bar and just ran the carriage along the rail and cut off the excess ply with the chainsaw , so there will be no gap under bar , otherwise , I found that if I am cutting a thin slice off the bottom of a cant , it get's pulled through the gap and become's a pain . Cheers MM


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## Jonsered2095 (Oct 10, 2007)

Matildasmate said:


> Also when setting up backing board , I made the ply higher than the saw bar and just ran the carriage along the rail and cut off the excess ply with the chainsaw , so there will be no gap under bar , otherwise , I found that if I am cutting a thin slice off the bottom of a cant , it get's pulled through the gap and become's a pain . Cheers MM



Excellent info. Great drawings. Thanks.


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## Matildasmate (Oct 10, 2007)

*Log rolling on Logosol type mill*

Anyone got any idea's on log rolling on logosol type mill's? beside's using a cant hook , which is what I use , get's a bit hard on 36" log's , I am looking for a better manual handling idea , small log's are no problem , may have to get BobL to make me one of his flash cant hook's only a 10 footer . Cheers MM


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## BobL (Oct 10, 2007)

*What about 1/4 sawing first*

MM, What about using a boat winch and a set of rollers to pull logs up onto your mill? 

Also, unless you plan to saw 36" wide slabs or boards, what about cutting large diameter logs into quarters using a CSM (maybe even on site) then you can haul the 1/4 log up onto your mill and if you set up a clever 1/4 log holding jig you can even quarter saw boards from it.

A 900 mm diam x 2.4 m long log (density of 1 ton/m^3) will weigh about 1.6 tons. 1/4 of this is only 400kg which is significantly more managable.


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## Matildasmate (Oct 10, 2007)

*Overloaded ute*



BobL said:


> MM, What about using a boat winch and a set of rollers to pull logs up onto your mill?
> 
> Also, unless you plan to saw 36" wide slabs or boards, what about cutting large diameter logs into quarters using a CSM (maybe even on site) then you can haul the 1/4 log up onto your mill and if you set up a clever 1/4 log holding jig you can even quarter saw boards from it.
> 
> A 900 mm diam x 2.4 m long log (density of 1 ton/m^3) will weigh about 1.6 tons. 1/4 of this is only 400kg which is significantly more manageable.



I think , I have been overloading me hilux a bit . Getting the log on the sawmill is the easy part , once the log is on the mill , it's the rolling it over , that's a pain when there that size . I just read something , about using a sliding sling of chain underneath the log to roll the log's over . I did the quartering thing , with a big pine log . My neighbor bought a cheap forklift , so sometime in the near future , we are going to have a go at slabbing some of his other tree's , more likely just a couple of large but log's , what sort of gum , who know's , neither him or me know , the bloke that owned his property about 20 year's ago , planted all the tree's on his place . Mite be just about time to build a csm like your's eh Bob , only mine won't be anywhere near as flash . Cheers MM


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## Jonsered2095 (Oct 10, 2007)

Matildasmate said:


> Anyone got any idea's on log rolling on logosol type mill's? beside's using a cant hook , which is what I use , get's a bit hard on 36" log's , I am looking for a better manual handling idea , small log's are no problem , may have to get BobL to make me one of his flash cant hook's only a 10 footer . Cheers MM



If you don't have a machine to lift it a chain block hanging from the roof maybe.

Or if your mill is sturdy enough; some band mills use a heel which lifts one side of the log from underneath effectively rolling it over - its pretty hard on the table though especially with the bigger logs.

I also had an idea of screwing some heavy lag bolts into the pith of the log at each end to lift from making turning easier. Like a rotary veneer mill.


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## Matildasmate (Oct 10, 2007)

*Sturdy no problem*



Jonsered2095 said:


> If you don't have a machine to lift it a chain block hanging from the roof maybe.
> 
> Or if your mill is sturdy enough; some band mills use a heel which lifts one side of the log from underneath effectively rolling it over - its pretty hard on the table though especially with the bigger logs.
> 
> I also had an idea of screwing some heavy lag bolts into the pith of the log at each end to lift from making turning easier. Like a rotary veneer mill.



What's this heel thingy look like? No problem with the mill being sturdy enough , being made of steel . With the bigger log's , I normally just put them straight on the mill , without the ladder , then split them in half , take em both off and put the ladder back on , put one half back on and mill it that way , but quite often you get a log on the mill and need to maneuver it into position . Which usually involve's rolling it on the mill . Got any pic's of the heel thingy , mite do a google on it . Thank's for the idea's gentlemen . Cheers MM


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## BobL (Oct 10, 2007)

Matildasmate said:


> What's this heel thingy look like? No problem with the mill being sturdy enough , being made of steel . With the bigger log's , I normally just put them straight on the mill , without the ladder , then split them in half , take em both off and put the ladder back on , put one half back on and mill it that way , but quite often you get a log on the mill and need to maneuver it into position . Which usually involve's rolling it on the mill . Got any pic's of the heel thingy , mite do a google on it . Thank's for the idea's gentlemen . Cheers MM



The "heel thing" is a off-radial-axis hydraulic lift/ram that pushes upward and on an angle, which lifts and rolls the log against a stop.

Along the same lines, what about something like in my picture?
belt the hook in with a lump hammer and crank away. You'd have to reset the hook after about an 1/8th of turn but that should be easy enough.


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## Matildasmate (Oct 10, 2007)

*Hi lift jack*



BobL said:


> The "heel thing" is a off-radial-axis hydraulic lift/ram that pushes upward and on an angle, which lifts and rolls the log against a stop.
> 
> Along the same lines, what about something like in my picture?
> belt the hook in with a lump hammer and crank away. You'd have to reset the hook after about an 1/8th of turn but that should be easy enough.



Interesting idea Bob , many brain's definitely better than one . Cheers MM


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## Matildasmate (Oct 10, 2007)

*Logosol forum*

I had a look on the Logosol forum , I read some article's on Logosol M7 fine tuning , not very impressive , one bloke reckon's it took him 2 hour's to fine tune it after moving it and at best it sound's like he mite be able to fine tune it in 20 minute's . This is every time you move it , what a pain , when I moved mine , only thing I done was make sure the feet were level and that was only because I thought well if I put a 2 ton log on it it mite twist or bend slightly , hurray for steel . Cheers MM


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## Mad Professor (Oct 10, 2007)

Turning big logs is a chore on the logosol mill. A cant hook and a helper or two works for me.

To get the logs on the mill I made up a portable ramp that has "steps" where the log can rest as I roll it up using a cant hook. Have loaded 12' X 25 " logs by myself.


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## Rodney Sinclair (Oct 10, 2007)

Matildasmate said:


> I had a look on the Logosol forum , I read some article's on Logosol M7 fine tuning , not very impressive , one bloke reckon's it took him 2 hour's to fine tune it after moving it and at best it sound's like he mite be able to fine tune it in 20 minute's . This is every time you move it , what a pain , when I moved mine , only thing I done was make sure the feet were level and that was only because I thought well if I put a 2 ton log on it it mite twist or bend slightly , hurray for steel . Cheers MM



Yeah, I downloaded this thing myself. After reading part of it, just left it alone. Still got the damn "manual" around here somewhere. Like you said, nothing to "tune". Just set it on solid, level ground and cut. Hell man, it didn't that that long to put the mill together. I guess the Logosol forum's got it share of BS too. Just like here, ya gotta wade through it.

Rodney


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## Matildasmate (Oct 10, 2007)

*Getting the log's on is the easy part*



Mad Professor said:


> Turning big logs is a chore on the logosol mill. A cant hook and a helper or two works for me.
> 
> To get the logs on the mill I made up a portable ramp that has "steps" where the log can rest as I roll it up using a cant hook. Have loaded 12' X 25 " logs by myself.



Hi Professor .... Getting the log's on is the easy part , I use the same crane I get my log's on the ute with , to put them on the mill , the bigger the diameter of the log , the shorter I cut them , around here , at this time of year , it's firewood collection time , I get most of my log's off of the side of the road , when the weather get's ruff , all I do is get a firewood permit to collect wood off of the side of the road , cost's $10.00 for a month per road , I use me ute and a strap to drag them out of the bush , then load them on the ute , I try to collect as many as possible , then cut them up during the off season , just about that now , another month it will be fire ban season , they wont give us permit's to get wood then , I get most of my firewood from a farm very close by , all Messmate Stringybark tree's (Eucalyptus Obliqua) another under valued tree , my neighbor got an outdoor setting made out of it , a couple month's ago , real nice .


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## BobL (Oct 10, 2007)

Thanks for the photos MM. It looks like fun work collecting those logs and I'm glad they're not going for firewood.

I just turn up at the tree loppers yard and there they are waiting for me to slice up.

It sure does look like you are overloading that ute. How much can the crane lift? It looks like a little beauty!

Cheers


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## Matildasmate (Oct 10, 2007)

*Yes i think your right mate*



Rodney Sinclair said:


> Yeah, I downloaded this thing myself. After reading part of it, just left it alone. Still got the damn "manual" around here somewhere. Like you said, nothing to "tune". Just set it on solid, level ground and cut. Hell man, it didn't that that long to put the mill together. I guess the Logosol forum's got it share of BS too. Just like here, ya gotta wade through it.
> 
> Rodney



Yes i think your right mate! ...... I really think maybe , that a number of clowns have not set there mill up correctly in the first place , but I was surprised , to see some experienced operators using the tune up manual though , Raphael for one , I had a look at his web site , not bad stuff , gotta get me self a bigger set of wader's :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: . Doe's the Logosol M7 twist and bend easily or much? .......... http://www.logosolusa.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=1&Number=2761&page=0&fpart=all


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## Matildasmate (Oct 10, 2007)

BobL said:


> Thanks for the photos MM. It looks like fun work collecting those logs and I'm glad they're not going for firewood.
> 
> I just turn up at the tree loppers yard and there they are waiting for me to slice up.
> 
> ...



Sound's like your on good thing mate! ...... It is one of those cheap Chinese one's , one of the best thing's I have bought , you can pick em up for about $160.00au now . Safe working limit's for this unit are , 230kg's-507Lb's fully extended and unextended 450kg's-992Lb's but will lift a lot more , a bit like me ute . I re-engineered the the stand the crane plug's into , was a real pain sticking out of the deck , along with my vice , I hacked that of too , it made it to hard to unload me log's , I had to lift them all off , instead of just rolling them off . Cheer's MM They also have a 900kg-1984Lb's version


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## Jonsered2095 (Oct 11, 2007)

BobL said:


> It sure does look like you are overloading that ute.



How about strapping a log to the roo bar: keep the nose down.


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## Matildasmate (Oct 11, 2007)

*Not a bad idea*



Jonsered2095 said:


> How about strapping a log to the roo bar: keep the nose down.



Not a bad idea , then I will have a proper load :jester: :jester: :jester:


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## Rodney Sinclair (Oct 11, 2007)

Matildasmate said:


> Yes i think your right mate! ...... I really think maybe , that a number of clowns have not set there mill up correctly in the first place , but I was surprised , to see some experienced operators using the tune up manual though , Raphael for one , I had a look at his web site , not bad stuff , gotta get me self a bigger set of wader's :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: . Doe's the Logosol M7 twist and bend easily or much? .......... http://www.logosolusa.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=1&Number=2761&page=0&fpart=all



I'm not sure what your after here hoss, but some things are very clear to me. You seem to have some sort of thing about the Logosol and I don't know why. I can say that just about everything you said about the cant bending down near the last cut and that sort of thing is somewhat true. It's also true that "stuff" was talked about and dealt with(the ladder) some years ago on the Logosol fourm. Along with the water hose, longer bars and a few other things you brought up.
The truth is, that mill will do every thing they say it will on the DVD and a lot more. The mill is so simple it hurts. And the thing is, it works. It has limits and so far the owners have found ways around them. So the mill seems to be more about the owners than about the mill itself. It looks to me like you have done a lot of reading on the Logosol fourm and built a cheap, homemade copy that most likely looks like the M7 did 50 years ago.
The wading through BS remark was as much (or more) about this fourm as any other fourm.

Rodney


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## Matildasmate (Oct 11, 2007)

*Info is for eveyone to help*



Rodney Sinclair said:


> I'm not sure what your after here hoss, but some things are very clear to me. You seem to have some sort of thing about the Logosol and I don't know why. I can say that just about everything you said about the cant bending down near the last cut and that sort of thing is somewhat true. It's also true that "stuff" was talked about and dealt with(the ladder) some years ago on the Logosol forum. Along with the water hose, longer bars and a few other things you brought up.
> The truth is, that mill will do every thing they say it will on the DVD and a lot more. The mill is so simple it hurts. And the thing is, it works. It has limits and so far the owners have found ways around them. So the mill seems to be more about the owners than about the mill itself. It looks to me like you have done a lot of reading on the Logosol forum and built a cheap, homemade copy that most likely looks like the M7 did 50 years ago.
> The wading through BS remark was as much (or more) about this forum as any other forum.
> 
> Rodney


 I do beleive that Handlogger wanted info on the Logosol M7 sawmill and not just a polished up view like the dvd . There has also been other member's that have asked for info , who are also considering building their own version of the M7 , so I am happy to provide as much info as possible and hopefully save them a lot of money an hassle , I do believe I have done that so far , As for being dealt with at the Logosol forum , that is all very nice , but unless our member's here , have very strong binocular's or are a member of the Logosol forum , they like me would not be getting any info about the Logosol and therefore the issue's need to be dealt with on this forum , I just joined the Logosol forum when this thread started , I thought well where better to get more info , so our member's can build a better sawmill than I did , even my setup need's work and I am happy for people to comment on my setup , whether positive , negative or other , I feel it is much more important for people to have as much information as possible , so they can make an informed decision . Imbeachy made a similar one for I think about $100us and he has some good idea's that I am happy to use , sound's like jonsered want's to build his own as well , I hope his is better than mine , I am sure that he will come up with some good idea's too , which I will be happy to use also , isn't this what a forum is all about , making friend's , sharing idea's providing info , having a laugh , there will be occasion's when we don't agree , but like they say , sheet happen's . *Now as to my question , doe's the Logosol twist and bend much , I will also be asking this question at the Logosol forum* :greenchainsaw: :greenchainsaw: :greenchainsaw: Cheers MM As to copying , tell me who hasn't copied the bandsaw , circular saw or car and many other's , all these thing's would be similar copy's , but some are better .


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## woodshop (Oct 12, 2007)

Matildasmate said:


> ... As to copying , tell me who hasn't copied the bandsaw , circular saw or car and many other's , all these thing's would be similar copy's , but some are better .


Exactly... well said. If I can improve a machine in my shop either by building a clone myself with the improvements in it, or tweaking one already bought (what I end up doing most of the time) then I'm gonna do that for sure. I agree with you MM that one of the benefits of a forum like this one is sharing ideas and maybe IMPROVING designs. I've gotten good ideas from aggie, rail and others. Keep 'em coming.


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## BobL (Oct 12, 2007)

woodshop said:


> Exactly... well said. If I can improve a machine in my shop either by building a clone myself with the improvements in it, or tweaking one already bought (what I end up doing most of the time) then I'm gonna do that for sure. I agree with you MM that one of the benefits of a forum like this one is sharing ideas and maybe IMPROVING designs. I've gotten good ideas from aggie, rail and others. Keep 'em coming.



+1

It's one thing to measure up a specific product and make and sell 10,000 exact clones with no improvement, and another to look at 10 different mills and then make your own using the better features of each mill combined with your own ideas. This is how we progress, otherwise we'd mostly still be using axes.


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## HandLogger (Oct 12, 2007)

*Another great thread!*

Thanks to all our Aussie friends, as well as to those closer to home.  

I agree that rational discussion is a powerful tool for anyone willing to consider both sides of the issue. And as far as originality goes, even "the greats" have been questioned. I mean, does anyone really believe that Gutenberg was the first to communicate via print? No, he just improved on the concept enough so that it became more efficient and, therefore, more readily available *to all*. And that's basically what many free thinkers have fostered: improvement.

And what did the man say? _"Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery."_ And here's one I like even more because I believe it fits most who would contribute to a venue such as this one, _"Necessity is the mother of invention."_ And even if you're scratching your head right now, you've got to admit that the folks that came up with these adages were some pretty wise fellas.  

Thanks to all who have contributed thus far ...


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## Matildasmate (Oct 12, 2007)

*All I have to say is Exelent just Exelent*

I have to say that this thread has been , *exelent just exelent* thank you to all .Cheers MM


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## Matildasmate (Oct 14, 2007)

*Diagram's with simple bar support*

Finally found my other drawing's of support for long chainsaw bar's , a very simple support , no bolt's required , just a slot for the bar to sit . Cheers MM


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## Jonsered2095 (Oct 14, 2007)

*What did I miss???*



Matildasmate said:


> I do beleive that Handlogger wanted info on the Logosol M7 sawmill and not just a polished up view like the dvd . There has also been other member's that have asked for info , who are also considering building their own version of the M7 , so I am happy to provide as much info as possible and hopefully save them a lot of money an hassle , I do believe I have done that so far , As for being dealt with at the Logosol forum , that is all very nice , but unless our member's here , have very strong binocular's or are a member of the Logosol forum , they like me would not be getting any info about the Logosol and therefore the issue's need to be dealt with on this forum , I just joined the Logosol forum when this thread started , I thought well where better to get more info , so our member's can build a better sawmill than I did , even my setup need's work and I am happy for people to comment on my setup , whether positive , negative or other , I feel it is much more important for people to have as much information as possible , so they can make an informed decision . Imbeachy made a similar one for I think about $100us and he has some good idea's that I am happy to use , sound's like jonsered want's to build his own as well , I hope his is better than mine , I am sure that he will come up with some good idea's too , which I will be happy to use also , isn't this what a forum is all about , making friend's , sharing idea's providing info , having a laugh , there will be occasion's when we don't agree , but like they say , sheet happen's . *Now as to my question , doe's the Logosol twist and bend much , I will also be asking this question at the Logosol forum*Cheers MM As to copying , tell me who hasn't copied the bandsaw , circular saw or car and many other's , all these thing's would be similar copy's , but some are better .





woodshop said:


> Exactly... well said. If I can improve a machine in my shop either by building a clone myself with the improvements in it, or tweaking one already bought (what I end up doing most of the time) then I'm gonna do that for sure. I agree with you MM that one of the benefits of a forum like this one is sharing ideas and maybe IMPROVING designs. I've gotten good ideas from aggie, rail and others. Keep 'em coming.





BobL said:


> +1
> 
> It's one thing to measure up a specific product and make and sell 10,000 exact clones with no improvement, and another to look at 10 different mills and then make your own using the better features of each mill combined with your own ideas. This is how we progress, otherwise we'd mostly still be using axes.





HandLogger said:


> I agree that rational discussion is a powerful tool for anyone willing to consider both sides of the issue. And as far as originality goes, even "the greats" have been questioned. I mean, does anyone really believe that Gutenberg was the first to communicate via print? No, he just improved on the concept enough so that it became more efficient and, therefore, more readily available *to all*. And that's basically what many free thinkers have fostered: improvement.
> 
> And what did the man say? _"Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery."_ And here's one I like even more because I believe it fits most who would contribute to a venue such as this one, _"Necessity is the mother of invention."_ And even if you're scratching your head right now, you've got to admit that the folks that came up with these adages were some pretty wise fellas.
> 
> Thanks to all who have contributed thus far ...



I agree.





> Thanks to all our Aussie friends, as well as to those closer to home.



Careful: we're not all Aussies :taped:  as much as I love em  :yoyo: 


[had to remove some smilies from quotes]


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## chrislemiller (Nov 18, 2008)

*Yes.Thank you for all your input.*

Even a year or so later all the posts have been a jolly good read.I particularly liked the picture of the over loaded utility vehicle with the load resting on the tyre almost.


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