# Stump Grinding prices.



## Darin (Apr 1, 2001)

I was browsing through the newspaper the other day and saw a guy advertising $25 stump removal prices up to 20". I thought inflation made things go up. I used to grind at $4 an inch with a $50 minumum and that didnt include cleanup five years ago. Has prices changed that much or is this just some lowballer. What are some current prices of some of you? Or how do you price stumps if you dont do a per inch formula?


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## Dave (Apr 1, 2001)

I'm getting $2.00 an inch which is about average around here although I've heard a rumor that the competition will remove chips, grade with loam and seed it for $5.00/inch. Too much like gardening for my taste. When I started there were about four stump machines in the state, now every outfit has at least one.That factor alone does a lot to keep prices down.


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## Deere John (Apr 1, 2001)

I no longer have a stumper, but in using the backhoe or other means, I figure on $40 overhead charge plus an estimate based on $120 per hour, including setup and travel.

Like Dave, I try to avoid the "gardening" aspect. People don't want to pay for it, and in the heavy-textured, stone rich soils that are around here, that is too much like work.


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## Darin (Apr 1, 2001)

Wow, two different extremes on pricing. Deere John are you in a more rural area where there isnt a lot of competition? Dave pointed out in his area he had one of the first stumpers and now everyone has a stumper. Keeping the prices down. You have a different form of equipment actually taking more of a stump I'm assuming. As a stumper can only go so deep. Is that why you feel you can charge more. If you take a whole stump with a backhoe you could even plant a tree in the same place? That was my customers complaint with a stumper that you really couldnt plant a new tree in the same location because of the depth of cut.


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## Deere John (Apr 1, 2001)

Ya Darin - there are only three stumpers in town - two owned by my former competition, and one from a rural fellow. I have a variety of buckets for the backhoe (down to 12"), a single tooth frost ripper that I have customized a tooth for to allow me reach under stumps and sever tap roots, and large pads to minimize damage to lawns. People are generally happy with this, but there are stumps I just refer to the stumpers.

People sometimes want the stump gone, tipping fees apply, so they may replant. Bigger stumps usually get buried deeper when the utility locates permit because again, they don't want to spend the money on tipping a 2,000 lb stump and refilling the hole.

I try to price and deliver service on the top-end of the price spectrum. I'm the same way with snow plowing. It is getting harder to do, because many people are becoming self-employed and entering fields where they see a niche - relardless of whether they are qualified or not. Still, in my situation, I have few hours to commit on a daily basis, so I have to charge more to cover the overheads. My market is about 80,000 people.


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## Sam (Apr 2, 2001)

$2/inch seems to be pretty standard around here. That's what I charge my people. That's just to grind it, nothing for the mess. Some guys will do it for less for you if you give them some volume.

Sam


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## Eager Beaver (Apr 7, 2001)

We have been in the stump grinding business for 12 years. Current pricing ranges are from 2.00 to 3.10 or more per inch depending on location, backyards with gates( using a smaller grinder) root removal, adding topsoil, seed etc. In our area there were originally 3 people grinding. Now everyone is either a tree removal expert on each corner with a old bucket truck and a chipper and or purchases a stump grinder. I watch every year 10 or more people come into this market and then they are gone. They realize that it is work or get hurt by inexperience. I am hoping by this new website we can get more proffesionalism in this market such as ************ in the Lawn Maintenance market. Good luck with this site!!! If I can be of any help in the stump grinding area I will.


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## Tree M.D. (Apr 11, 2001)

*stump grinding*

I charge between $5- $5.50 per inch dependant on the size and quantity with a $75 min.


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## treeclimber165 (May 4, 2001)

We have a couple reputable stump guys here in central Florida. My favorite guy has 8 stump machines and charges approx. $2 per inch. This is for grinding and a quick rake-up, no hauling. Most of the guys I know (reputable, smaller tree guys) use him, but most of the bigger guys in town have their own stump machines. Part of the reason our prices are so low is the Vermeer dealer right here in town, if parts and service were not so accessible I am sure prices would be higher.


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## treeman82 (May 23, 2001)

over here i get per inch. and that is about 4 dollars per inch. just to be quick about it i walk over the widest part of the stump. every time i put my foot down is 50 dollars. that is how i usually do it. otherwise sometimes i will do rental plus time, if there is not that much work to do. again that is just grind the sucker out of there, pack up and leave.


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## sonny (May 23, 2001)

Its not stumps but we were a Utility tree contractor. last job on SCE property, or contract was $39.00 per trim. that was for distrubition lines, in the yr. 1992. This is the yr. 2001 contract tree price is $ 25.00 per tree.


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## Deere John (May 24, 2001)

Yikes Sonny - that's pretty tough to get a 36% paycut over 9 years. Fuel, insurance and labour has done nothing but increase since '92. Is the competion stiff where you are, or is the utility, as they are here, really playing hardball with your tender?

You must have to really do the volume to cover your costs.

OH - I I just read your post again - the 2001 price is 25.00, but you didn't say that you got it. Maybe the one who did will go belly-up, and make room for you and more reasonable prices. Do you get alot of private work when you are visible and available doing utility trimming??


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## sonny (May 24, 2001)

I dont think them nice Orange trucks are going to go belly up.& we started doing just transmission lines, Much better just climbing highrer & heavier cutting.We moved to easy CHEAP city work, Called it quits as far as cutting trees, as of 01/01/1999. Never been happier !!!. No 41 % workers comp., Unreal libility ins. & all the law suits, etc.


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## sonny (May 24, 2001)

sorry I lied . called it quits 01/01/2000


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## Treebeard (Jun 7, 2001)

I've been thinking of buying a grinder. Anybody got good or bad things to say about particular brands?


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## Darin (Jun 8, 2001)

Yeah, get a Rayco. Its a superior brand to all in my opinion. The closest dealer would be in Denver unfortunately. They are the world's leader in manufacturing and distributing stumpers.


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## treeclimber165 (Jun 8, 2001)

I am passing on this info second hand, as I have not done much stump grinding. A local guy who has done my stumps (and 1/2 of Orlando's) for over 10 years owns about 12 stump grinders right now. He has run Vermeer and Rayco. He loves his BIG Rayco, but uses his BIG Vermeer most of the time. The machine that makes him the most money, and he uses it most often, is his 252 Vermeer. 
He does have a local Vermeer dealer, about 5 miles from his house.


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## lufkincy (Nov 7, 2007)

*Stump Grinding Questions*

I just bought the stump grinding part of my son-in-law's tree service. The only machine I have now is a Vermeer 252. The stump grinding was sort of a loss leader for him. He charged $25 per stump regardless of the size. I'm barely breaking even on the ones I do for him. I'm charging $2 per inch with a $50 per location minimum. I have several questions. First, some of our pine trees have huge roots on the surface - 8-10" diameter and they extend sometimes 10 to 15 feet from the stump. How do you price or handle these? My second question is some help getting a handle on the hourly cost. In a few months I will have my own figures, but it would be helpful if some would share their hourly costs - labor, maintenance, depreciation, fuel & oil, etc. Thanks. Cy Stapleton, Lufkin, Texas


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## tree md (Nov 7, 2007)

We have a $150 minimum and usually figure each stump by it's level of difficulty and give a bid. Got to be careful though, I got my lunch eat on a stump a couple months ago. Had to grind 12 stumps in all (biggest was about 2 foot across) but we had one Bradford Pear that was in a location that had drainage issues. Real tight take down over a condo and a landscaped area. I originally quoted them at $150 to grind that stump. They asked me if I would grind it all the way out to a few exposed roots that went out about 4 feet. I told them no, that that price was only to grind the base stump. They told me that they needed to have a drain put in there and they would either have to pay me or pay the drain guy to get the roots out and said to add to my estimate if need be. I said no problem, I was already going to have the stump grinder there and would grind the roots out for another hundred, bumping the price up to $250. Well, My guys slung a rock or something and took out a sliding glass door. I had to pay for the damages out of pocket to keep from using my insurance. After paying for the glass replacement I paid a total of $20 bucks to them folks to grind their stump. That didn't include what I had to pay my guys in labor. Good thing the overall job well made up for our blunder.


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## D Mc (Nov 7, 2007)

We have a 35 hp Kandu stumper. We recently replaced our old Kandu with a new model after 10 plus years in service. An awesome stumper and can get into backyards and delicate areas with very little impact. 

As with most stumpers, you do have to take care not to fling debris and rocks. In addition to the rubber guards on the stumper itself, we also set up plywood shields.

With this machine we bid our stumps at $3/diameter inch. That price can vary depending on type of stumps, location, quantity, etc. Our minimum is $50. We charge extra for taking away the mulch. Be clear on this in your estimates (in writing). Most of our clients do like to utilize the mulch but that can be a huge time investment if you have to take it and didn't bid it.

We figure stump grinding should bill out at least $125/hr minimum to cover expenses, depreciation, cost, etc. 

D Mc


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## RoyalTree (Nov 8, 2007)

we charge price between 5 and 7 dollars an inch or even more depending on roots. We stick to 150 dollar min unless we are doing other work on site.


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## 2muchstuff (Nov 11, 2007)

stumps are cheap here advertized in the paper starting at less than 4 bucks per stump. 

15 to 20 is common or even less and its slow even at that cost.


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## treejunkie13 (Dec 1, 2007)

I'm at 2.50 per in. at widest dia. flush to ground measurement (grind and go no clean) approx. 6-8" deep
usually $1.00 per in. extra for avg. clean up (stump pending) fill hole leave heaved a little for settling haul off excess. 
Quantity discount
Also offer deals to other tree guys in hopes to keep the already fierce competition down.

In all honesty I like to grind but wouldn't be involved in it if I didn't fall into a reasonable deal on my machine.


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## newb (Dec 1, 2007)

I bought a Bandit this year. I got the 34 horse Cat and wireless remote. Love it.


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## lufkincy (Dec 1, 2007)

*Thanks for the info and one more question-marketing*

I really appreciate the most helpful info. I've got one more question. How do you market your stumpgrinding service? I'm new and am trying a lot of different things. One I hope will work well is direct mail. I drive through various neighborhoods and when I find a visible stump I take a digital photo of it and write down the address. When I get back to my office I use our tax assessor's database to look up the owner of the property. I then write a letter to the owner and include a photo of the stump(s). I've just started this and so far have only gotten one job. It was for 7 stumps, the smallest being about 24", but they were all very rotten and the job went really fast. You can see a copy of my letter at http://hotlinecy.com/stumpgrindingletter.pdf
Thanks...
Cy Stapletonhttp://hotlinecy.com/stumpgrindingletter.pdf


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## BC WetCoast (Dec 1, 2007)

lufkincy said:


> I really appreciate the most helpful info. I've got one more question. How do you market your stumpgrinding service? I'm new and am trying a lot of different things. One I hope will work well is direct mail. I drive through various neighborhoods and when I find a visible stump I take a digital photo of it and write down the address. When I get back to my office I use our tax assessor's database to look up the owner of the property. I then write a letter to the owner and include a photo of the stump(s). I've just started this and so far have only gotten one job. It was for 7 stumps, the smallest being about 24", but they were all very rotten and the job went really fast. You can see a copy of my letter at http://hotlinecy.com/stumpgrindingletter.pdf
> Thanks...
> Cy Stapletonhttp://hotlinecy.com/stumpgrindingletter.pdf



The places I would focus on are, referrals from other tree companies and landscapers, municipalities outside their normal boulevard operations (ie parks and trails) and golf courses. Another place may be other stump grinder companies who get stumps that are difficult/pita and don't want to deal with. In my humble opinion, if you see people with stumps left in their yard, especially old ones, removing them is pretty low on their priority list and a lot of work with low return for you.

I think that many grinder companies don't want to deal with stumps that on top of retaining walls, where you need ramps or a crane to get the machine to; or fences that need to be dismantled and reassembled; or surface roots under paving stone patios (where the paving stones have to be relaid); or in planters in office buildings. All situations I've had to deal with that I wished my boss had subbed out. Find a niche in the PITA stump removal market.


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## undercut (Dec 9, 2007)

*pricing*

Pricing at one flat rate per inch is not that accurate in determing your work load. I look at the job and figure how long it is going to take me. I know it cost 70/hr just to run the machine if you include replacing, carbide, belts, pulleys, bearings, oil changes, pockets, bolts, fuel ect. remember you are depreciating the machine over a set amount of time 5 years 6,7, maybe even 10 depending on how many hours you are grinding a year. You really have to look at everything it cost to grind stumps in the first place including how much it cost you everyday just to wake up in the morning , 75 bucks to roll out of bed? Insuranes and everything all combined. 

You have to look at the job by time and complexibility. Rock hazards, are the stumps cut low, are you going to flush cut them low? Are you going to smoke a chain, hit a nail? How does the wood grind. Is it going to take a while. Is it dense and heavy wood like beech? is it brittle and smooth to grind like oaks? Is it fresh and wet or rotten? Is it a hard and dry from sitting all summer durning a drought? Are the roots from a red maple running several feet away from the trunk? What are the clients planning to do with the area? do you have to break through the core so you can have proper flow of water for planting? can you just take it down an inch to hide for a mulch bed?

After you answer all these questions and more, start to think about volume. The radius of a circle squared times pi gives you it's area. Think of the difference of the volume of wood you are going to have to chip between a 1 foot stump versus a 5 foot stump. 113 face cu. inches versus 2826 face cu. inches. You can see the volume increases exponentially the larger you go. So if you charge 2 dollars an inch for a 1 foot stump or 24 dollars, don't charge 120 dollars for the 5 foot stump with 25 times as much cu face. The larger stump is the more work, and when you get used grind time you will understand this.

when pricing - Know you wood and look at all the factors and remember don't undercut yourself. These are imaginary stumps in my example but charge 600.00 or more for the five footer  ... remember the chips build up and things get a lot more complicated with bigger stumps 10 dollars and inch is not really that off when you think how much the volume increases. You will get to the point when you can just look and tell. You will know all the factors that determine your price including what others are charging and your exact costs. Hope this helps. Good luck... Justin 860-874-1205 STUMPS IN CT...


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## Canyonbc (Dec 10, 2007)

newb said:


> I bought a Bandit this year. I got the 34 horse Cat and wireless remote. Love it.



I don't remember the exact number on the machine...but a few months ago i was working as a groundy for another company here in town....and they have a remote controlled bandit...it was awesome

rolled it off the trailer...through the gate...and ground the liquid amber right up.


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## Canyonbc (Dec 10, 2007)

newb said:


> I bought a Bandit this year. I got the 34 horse Cat and wireless remote. Love it.



I don't remember the exact number on the machine...but a few months ago i was working as a groundy for another company here in town....and they have a remote controlled bandit...it was awesome

rolled it off the trailer...through the gate...and ground the liquid amber right up.


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## undercut (Dec 11, 2007)

*best stumper*

There are a lot of awesome machines. Turbo deisels that are remote controled are sweetness. I think if you need one good all around model to get the small tighties and the big ones you go with a machine like your are talking about. If you have the demand and budget i would say a small medium and large machine is the way to go. I wouldn;t mind a track machine for the tricky terrane, hopefully soon.


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## Canyonbc (Dec 11, 2007)

undercut said:


> There are a lot of awesome machines. Turbo deisels that are remote controled are sweetness. I think if you need one good all around model to get the small tighties and the big ones you go with a machine like your are talking about. If you have the demand and budget i would say a small medium and large machine is the way to go. I wouldn;t mind a track machine for the tricky terrane, hopefully soon.



i agree realistically...the grinder i would like...is the HB20 Sidewinder by Bandit...with a 20 hp Kohler. I think its roughly $ 8000 grand brand new. i am small time...its cheaper and smaller. 

Canyon


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## Canyonbc (Dec 11, 2007)

http://www.banditchippers.com/index.php?option=com_models&task=view&itemId=15&lineId=26&modelId=61


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## BC WetCoast (Dec 11, 2007)

undercut said:


> Pricing at one flat rate per inch is not that accurate in determing your work load. I look at the job and figure how long it is going to take me. I know it cost 70/hr just to run the machine if you include replacing, carbide, belts, pulleys, bearings, oil changes, pockets, bolts, fuel ect. remember you are depreciating the machine over a set amount of time 5 years 6,7, maybe even 10 depending on how many hours you are grinding a year. You really have to look at everything it cost to grind stumps in the first place including how much it cost you everyday just to wake up in the morning , 75 bucks to roll out of bed? Insuranes and everything all combined.
> 
> You have to look at the job by time and complexibility. Rock hazards, are the stumps cut low, are you going to flush cut them low? Are you going to smoke a chain, hit a nail? How does the wood grind. Is it going to take a while. Is it dense and heavy wood like beech? is it brittle and smooth to grind like oaks? Is it fresh and wet or rotten? Is it a hard and dry from sitting all summer durning a drought? Are the roots from a red maple running several feet away from the trunk? What are the clients planning to do with the area? do you have to break through the core so you can have proper flow of water for planting? can you just take it down an inch to hide for a mulch bed?
> 
> ...



I agree, pricing stumps by the inch is going bite you in the a$$ in the long run. There are too many variables that need to be considered which can range from little things like not being able to find the address (or find parking), travel, gates and fences, managing mulch and cleanup. Just some examples:

For some yards, we find it is easier to dismantle a fence panel rather than try and get through a gate. For prebuild wood panel fences, run a sawzall down the fence post cutting the nails and lift the panel out. When the job is done, then the panel can just be nailed back in place.

I will also grind within a 1/2" of a fence or wall, but the last couple of inches are very slow to make sure I don't hit anything.

I've also had to walk a machine down the side of a house, with only a couple of inches of clearance on the sides (actually had to ride the machine because there was no room to walk beside) because there was no other access to the backyard.

We built a set of ramps for getting on top of walls or steps. They're easy to use, but take time to set up.

Unfortunately, very few of our stumps are found in flat areas like they show in the equipment demos. 

We will haul mulch if requested, but it is a separate item on the quote, so the customer can see how much it will cost. My suggestion for pricing the mulch (grindings) hauling is to estimate using an hourly rate twice the grinding rate ie $100/hr to grind - $200/hr to haul mulch(grindings). Nobody likes to haul mulch and so if customer doesn't want it, no problem because you didn't want to do it anyway. And if the customer does want it, then it is worth your while.


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## undercut (Dec 11, 2007)

*bandit copied carlton*

Aside from that i wouldn't get that bandit model. In stump grinding generally there is no replacement for displacement. HP is more than slightly important. i feel like getting that machine would be a bad move. Go with at least the 2100 model. Check with carlton they make some reasonable little deisel ones that are similar also. Just go a little bigger and you will be happy. 2900 call it a day  check out the SP4012 with the kubota that carlton makes i think this could kick some ass for you. I have a litte one like this with a 27 kohler and it is so fast that i did 40 little stumps ranging from 1 inch stubs to 6 inch mixed hard woods in just over and hour for 450.00 a couple weeks ago and the lady tried to change to price after because she thought it was to much to make so quick. some times it is the right tool for the job that makes the differnce. If the travel speed is the same for the kubota i am definatley upgrading to that. mine has 250 hrs or so right now just put a new v belt on it.


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## Canyonbc (Dec 11, 2007)

undercut said:


> Aside from that i wouldn't get that bandit model. In stump grinding generally there is no replacement for displacement. HP is more than slightly important. i feel like getting that machine would be a bad move. Go with at least the 2100 model. Check with carlton they make some reasonable little deisel ones that are similar also. Just go a little bigger and you will be happy. 2900 call it a day  check out the SP4012 with the kubota that carlton makes i think this could kick some ass for you. I have a litte one like this with a 27 kohler and it is so fast that i did 40 little stumps ranging from 1 inch stubs to 6 inch mixed hard woods in just over and hour for 450.00 a couple weeks ago and the lady tried to change to price after because she thought it was to much to make so quick. some times it is the right tool for the job that makes the differnce. If the travel speed is the same for the kubota i am definatley upgrading to that. mine has 250 hrs or so right now just put a new v belt on it.




Really.

Ok thank you...always open to suggestion and def. love to learn new info.

Carlton is a solid company to look through for stump grinders???


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## undercut (Dec 11, 2007)

*Solid as a rock*

Carlton has beefy stuff i have two stumpers from them one with a duetz tow behind and the little self propelled. They are reasonable and over engineered. I have to say i like the carlton more than the vermeer i have. Adding hydraulic drive motors for the grinding wheel is sweet but cost more money than it is worth in my opinion. Some high end models are like that and really popular, rayco rg 50 for example. i just can't justify the price difference for the actual production. Not that any of them are really horrable machines. Like the direct gear drive vermeers are cool but costly. what is the savings between a new tranny versus belts and bearings? The only thing i don't like about carlton is what they did with the sandvik. I like that they tried to re-engineer the teeth patter to cut better but i don't like that they modified the actual teeth so you have to use theirs and pay a tiny bit more. I am really curious about the M1 i might have to call leonardi tree care and see what is up with that. What are peoples consensus on the best wheel and teeth?


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## Canyonbc (Dec 11, 2007)

Thanks for the info. Canyon


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