# Rear-handles for climbing?



## emr (Mar 4, 2009)

I was just reading the "cheap-o" thread and it got me thinking. Where I used to work we had bad luck with our ms200s and end up buying some ms192s. During that time we had more climbers than saws, so I started using a ms210 as a climbing saw. I now own my own company and have 2 192s but I am thinking about going back to a 210 or 170 as my climbing saw because I liked having a rear-handle saw in the tree. It just seemed so much easier to make face cuts as well as better finish cuts on prunings. There were only a very few times where the bulk of the 210 was an issue. That kind of surprised me, but it was just never an issue for me. So I guess I am wondering if anyone else out there actually prefers rear-handle saws while in the tree better than the top handle saws. Also does anyone see any safety issues with using a r-h saw versus a t-h saw?

Also please don't turn this thread into a "200 is better than a 192" or "210s and 170s suck" because these are the saws that I have available to me right now.


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## Bearcreek (Mar 4, 2009)

I've been needing to get a new climbing saw for a while now and this is pretty much the issue that i've been hesitant over. The guy that first taught me to climb years ago never used a top handle saw, in fact, he never climbed with anything smaller than a 26. Granted, pretty much everything he did was removals so the extra size was often nice to have. I've used both and in my experience the only time I've really liked a top handle better is when I was using the taboo one handed method. I've been thinking about getting the tail handle version of the 200.


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## Little Monkey (Mar 4, 2009)

i worked for a company once that didnt use top handles unless you bought one yourself, i had a small huskie, the idea was that they didnt have to issue a climber 2 saws, 
when i left and started out on my own i was using a 270 with a 13 inch bar,
and i found it was only a problem when pruning small whippy trees where you needed a hand to help support yourself as you cut, i see no real problem with using a back handle saw if that is what you prefere, that said i climb with a 200.


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## gilraine (Mar 5, 2009)

I've only climbed once for a removal( on my own land and I wanted to try it).. I used both my old 026 and a borrowed 192t in the tree.. both have there pluses and there minuses.. man I miss that 026.


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## woodchux (Mar 5, 2009)

i first started climbing with a husky 141 , then got an 026. moved on to the 200t, got stolen so i picked up a 192, got stolen so got another 200t. That one literally fell off the truck , so got another 192. The 192 was lacking though so i purchased again a 200t At some point the 200 and the 192 were both having problems so i tried an echo cs330 (yuck). i find that anything less than the 200t just wont cut the mustard so to speak. i did like the 141 and 026 at the time though...( sorry for blatently disregarding your thread with my 200t praising) Maybe a rear handle 200 would be great...


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## TreeTopKid (Mar 5, 2009)

That's funny I dropped a 192 at my job a few weeks back, and ended up using a 210 to climb with till it was fixed. To clumsy for tender loving tree care IMO not very well balanced. When I'm working on my own jobs I only use my MS200s. It's the top dog for climbing. The 210s we've got at work were the only saws we could get in bulk after Ike. Good chainsaws were thin on the ground down here just after the storm.


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## clearance (Mar 5, 2009)

Used 372s and 288s when I was blocking down trees, logs, firewood type of thing. All the rest of the time its the MS 200T, best saw for climbing, best Stihl ever made (except for the 020).


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## BlackenedTimber (Mar 6, 2009)

For trimming, I prefer my MS200T, because it is lighter and easier to operate up in the breeze, IMO. I mean, thats what it was built for. I do really like using my little Stihl 260 for removal jobs though, and especially when I can just bomb limbs and blockwood, wihouth having to worry about roping down. I suppose if I HAD to make a choice, I would take the MS200T, but the little 260 is a close second. Sometimes you gotta just grab the ol' monster 066 and go to town with 36 inches of full chisel up in the breeze though... that's the BEST.

:greenchainsaw:


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## emr (Mar 6, 2009)

BlackenedTimber said:


> Sometimes you gotta just grab the ol' monster 066 and go to town with 36 inches of full chisel up in the breeze though... that's the BEST.
> 
> :greenchainsaw:



Thank God I have never had to do that. That is the day I quit tree work and start a new job. I guess my wimpy 170 isn't quite in the same league with the 660. I had my 660 out yesterday to stump cut a removal and I really couldn't imagine bringing that thing up in a tree.


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## pbtree (Mar 7, 2009)

I normally use the top handle in the air, although for years when money was tight I stuck with a rear handle Husky 41 - It was easier to do some cuts with it, but anytime I had to make a one handed cut it was more difficult, and probably not as safe, as the top handle... 

That said, I would run what you are comfortable with, and can handle safely...


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## Ax-man (Mar 7, 2009)

For years I climbed with a top handle. In the last five years I switched to a rear handle and will not go back to a top handle for climbing. You have more reach with a rear handle and it safer to use as you pretty much have to keep both hands on the saw compared to one handing a top handle and only have 50% control over the saw.

I know the one hand crowd is going to be crowing on how they can control the saw and how quick and fast it is to cut limbs and branches using one hand but it really isn't a smart practice as far as safety. There are times when one handed cutting needs to be employed and ther is a recommended procedure for one hand cuts but most cuts can be made with both hands on the saw for proper saw control. We don't need to get off on that tangent. The choice is up to the operator I guess. 

I climbed with a 021 for awhile. It is a bit bulky and heavy but makes a good little rear handle climbing saw. The rear handled 200 weren't available back then but as soon as they were I made the switch over real quick.

I would stick with a 21 or the 192 if you can't afford a 200. I would definately stay away from 017. The handle seperates from the anti vib and is very hard to get back together. It is a common problem with the 017.

Larry


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## emr (Mar 7, 2009)

Thanks for the advise Ax. I already have a 170, 210 and 192. I am just trying to figure out which one I want to climb with. I actually like the 170 for small stuff around home. I never really used it professionally. I do like how small and light it is.... which would be good for climbing. You can tell that it wont hold up to everyday use..... its too cheap to do that. I guess it wasn't made to be an everyday pro saw anyhow. I am sure I wont go back to the 210 for climbing.... I agree that its to bulky. Maybe a rear handle 200 is in my future. Who knows.


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## Ax-man (Mar 7, 2009)

A 200 is worth the money no matter how you look at it. The rear handled 200 can be used up in a tree and on the ground for light ground work. I know it is a heck of alot of bucks to be shelling out for a small saw but they do last a long time over the long run.

I picked up another used part saw rear handled 200 last year and got it running good. That saws gets more use than the 25's and 26's we have because it is so light and manuverable and quick cutting for small stuff. 

Sthil does have a rear handled version for the 192. Never had one but the reviews say they are good for trimming and small removals. 

Larry


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## Little Monkey (Mar 7, 2009)

emr said:


> Thank God I have never had to do that. That is the day I quit tree work and start a new job. I guess my wimpy 170 isn't quite in the same league with the 660. I had my 660 out yesterday to stump cut a removal and I really couldn't imagine bringing that thing up in a tree.



when i worked in new zealand it was not unusual to use an ms880 with a 48inch bar in the tree for crane work , now that was bl**dy hard work !!! :chainsawguy:


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## jar1zx (Mar 7, 2009)

boy i started out hard 1st used a bow saw that was some hard work then got a good deal on a lil husky rear handle saw. the problem with that was using it one handed some times i would slip with the saw and it comes back at ya wide open. i rember last time i did it the saw got close to getting my leg i climbed down the tree and went saw shopping. ended up getting the 
020t and loved the saw ever since. 

best 450 dollars i ever spent. now they r like 600+


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## elmnut (Mar 8, 2009)

Husqvarna has a rear handle saw based on the 338xp, the 339xp.


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## treeoperations (Mar 8, 2009)

Little Monkey said:


> when i worked in new zealand it was not unusual to use an ms880 with a 48inch bar in the tree for crane work , now that was bl**dy hard work !!! :chainsawguy:




haha its a sign of a hard man pulling that off, try doing it with a chopper, u move your ass at a million miles a hour.


back to the question, if its a removal job i reach for my 350, pruning i reach for the 338, crane work its the 385 with 22inch bar or a 3120 for the big stuff

just use both and figure out for your self what suits you for what you do


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## Little Monkey (Mar 10, 2009)

treeoperations said:


> haha its a sign of a hard man pulling that off, try doing it with a chopper, u move your ass at a million miles a hour.
> 
> 
> back to the question, if its a removal job i reach for my 350, pruning i reach for the 338, crane work its the 385 with 22inch bar or a 3120 for the big stuff
> ...



na i wouldnt say hard,, more like worn out !! dont think i would be up for it now, as for choppers, yep fast furious and lots of fun,


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## Slvrmple72 (Mar 11, 2009)

elmnut said:


> Husqvarna has a rear handle saw based on the 338xp, the 339xp.



Used it for about a year. It was okay but then started stalling out alot. Gave it to my dad, works fine on the ground for him. I do agree on the better accuracy of your angles for cuts and better leverage to cut with a rear handle saw as opposed to a top handle. Plus, if you are a small setup you have a good rearhandle saw for groundwork too! I mention this all of the time, I started with a Poulan Pro 295 w/20" bar and did everything with it. Climbing and groundwork, besides a couple of handsaws and polesaw/pruner. Ultimately, you want the saw you are most comfortable with, not to mention safest too!


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## wahlturfcare (Mar 11, 2009)

i prefer my 335xpt saw for climbing, but if the branck gets anyy bigger that 12'' inches or so i use my 340 as it is alot easier to and quicker to make face cuts and such. also alot safer not having to reach out so far. 
Sometimes i have had to use my 394, but mainly to chunk everything down.


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