# Which Log Splitter to buy?



## Redbox02 (Sep 10, 2011)

I have read a lot of the opinions on the forums about log splitters. I have $2500 to spend and looking for the best built one.

It seems like the horizontal/vertical is the best way to go. 

I also think the ones with the wedge attached to the piston are the best. I have seen a couple with a stop so when the piston retracts if the wood is stuck on the wedge it gets knocked off. 

Structurally the ones with a heavy I beam and the largest base plate make the most sense.

Now for everyone’s recommendations.

Thanks!


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## Steve2910 (Sep 10, 2011)

I never use mine in the vertical position. Tried it once--- hated it! Also, my situation dictates that most of my wood is blocked down to manageable size before it sees the splitter. I'd pick one w/ a Honda engine, although I've heard others like the Subaru/Robin engines as well. Either way, I've never had good luck w/ Briggs motors & avoid them like the plague!


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## avalancher (Sep 10, 2011)

After listening to the advise of several members, I bought the Speeco 35 ton through Omni manufacturers.$1900 delivered including a log table and a four way head, I couldnt be more pleased. It has the ram mounted wedge like you mentioned, and can be swung down vertical if you like.I have only put five cords through it so far in the two weeks that I have had it, but I have found it a flawless machine.I bought mine with the Briggs engine, but the Honda engine is available for I think $300 bucks more. I think they are having a special right now of $100 off, so if you want just the splitter without a log table its $1700 with free freight. Check it out here 
Speeco 35 ton B&S 1450 OHV Vertical & Horizontal Log Splitter - OMNI Mfg


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## Swamp Yankee (Sep 10, 2011)

Three Questions

How many cords are you going to split?

Is it to be used for production / commercial or homeowner application?

What are the splits going in? (Stove, OWB, Campfire)

Take Care


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## Redbox02 (Sep 10, 2011)

Swamp Yankee said:


> Three Questions
> 
> How many cords are you going to split?
> 
> ...


 
About 10-15 cords a year.
Semi-commercial
Stoves.
Thanks


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## Maplekid (Sep 10, 2011)

Horizontal Vertical splitters suck. Ive run them and Ive owned horizontal only splitters. I can outsplit a hv splitter with a regular spliter 2 to 1. For $2500 I think you can get the J model super split or the dr rapid fire. I personaly like the super split better. I plan on getting one after this wood selling season. They will outsplit everything other than a $8000 timberwolf or builtright.


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## fatjoe (Sep 10, 2011)

Maplekid said:


> Horizontal Vertical splitters suck. Ive run them and Ive owned horizontal only splitters. I can outsplit a hv splitter with a regular spliter 2 to 1. For $2500 I think you can get the J model super split or the dr rapid fire. I personaly like the super split better. I plan on getting one after this wood selling season. They will outsplit everything other than a $8000 timberwolf or builtright.


 
Verticle splitters are good for chunks my friend.It saves time from noodling.There was a time when I could split ALL my wood with a maul and lift 300 pound chunks onto a splitter.Then a funny thing happened.I got older and wiser.There is nothing wrong with a vertical splitting.I can sit on a five gallon pail and split for hours.Work smarter not harder.


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## Iron man (Sep 10, 2011)

I got a horizontal/vertical splitter because the price was right.Got it used.It does come in handy when you need to break up the big rounds which I get a lot of but the draw back for mine is its so heavy when I have to lift it to the vertical position I have to use a 3ft bar inserted in the handle for leverage.So you might want to try a few out first in the store to see if that's going to be an issue.Also rolling the big rounds to the splitter and getting them positioned can be tough so you might want to try noodling the rounds.


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## redheadwoodshed (Sep 10, 2011)

avalancher said:


> After listening to the advise of several members, I bought the Speeco 35 ton through Omni manufacturers.$1900 delivered including a log table and a four way head, I couldnt be more pleased. It has the ram mounted wedge like you mentioned, and can be swung down vertical if you like.I have only put five cords through it so far in the two weeks that I have had it, but I have found it a flawless machine.I bought mine with the Briggs engine, but the Honda engine is available for I think $300 bucks more. I think they are having a special right now of $100 off, so if you want just the splitter without a log table its $1700 with free freight. Check it out here
> Speeco 35 ton B&S 1450 OHV Vertical & Horizontal Log Splitter - OMNI Mfg


 
I agree with Avalancher, I got one in July and really like it.


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## rwbinbc (Sep 10, 2011)

I like the flywheel style wood splitters But, Mine is a horizontal mounted on a mini van axle. If I loosen the bolts it slides down about 10" from the ground so loading big rounds easier. Throw a piece of split wood down for a ramp and Your "IN". 10-15 cords a year, I wouldn't spend $2500 on one. DR has a nice double action splitter for like $1100 right now which I dont think is a bad deal.


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## angelo c (Sep 10, 2011)

Splitters are like women, they are all good for something but not all are good for everything. Only you can decide which one is best for you. Like women they are all beautiful to some other guy and yet no matter how attactive they are there is some guy some where who is sick of her "chit". 

try them all and see what works best for you. I have a SS and run my buddies TW6 often and love them both.. Honestly for me the best is having both side by side because when it comes to chuncking the big onery rounds down the TW is a pure Sumo wrestler...but when the rounds are manageable the SS is one Mad sprinter that wins the short race by a while...

each machine has its purpose and is designed for that purpose. Enjoy the ride....


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## hammer0419 (Sep 11, 2011)

fatjoe said:


> Verticle splitters are good for chunks my friend.It saves time from noodling.There was a time when I could split ALL my wood with a maul and lift 300 pound chunks onto a splitter.Then a funny thing happened.I got older and wiser.There is nothing wrong with a vertical splitting.I can sit on a five gallon pail and split for hours.Work smarter not harder.


 
Could not agree more. I have actually NEVER used my splitter in the horizontal position.


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## roostersgt (Sep 11, 2011)

Prefer the vert splitter. Try hefting splitter sized oak rounds (80lb+) onto your horizontal device for a few hours and you'll no doubt agree. My back and shoulders are plenty strong and lifting rounds onto the splitter is flat stupid, IMHO. Back ached like a big dog for days. Bought horiz/vert splitter and always use it in the vert mode. Sit on a round and feed the machine. No problems. Got good deal on Troybuilt from Lowes, but I saw a better splitter for around $1600 at Bailey's. A real well built beast with large beams and big tires etc...


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## angelo c (Sep 11, 2011)

roostersgt said:


> Prefer the vert splitter. Try hefting splitter sized oak rounds (80lb+) onto your horizontal device for a few hours and you'll no doubt agree. My back and shoulders are plenty strong and lifting rounds onto the splitter is flat stupid, IMHO. Back ached like a big dog for days. Bought horiz/vert splitter and always use it in the vert mode. Sit on a round and feed the machine. No problems. Got good deal on Troybuilt from Lowes, but I saw a better splitter for around $1600 at Bailey's. A real well built beast with large beams and big tires etc...


 
Think "log lift".....Good hydrolics trumps good spinal cordage every time.


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## redheadwoodshed (Sep 11, 2011)

angelo c said:


> Think "log lift".....Good hydrolics trumps good spinal cordage every time.


 
Add another 800 or so bucks while your thinking.


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## Pcoz88 (Sep 11, 2011)

Either SS or DR rapid fire!!!!


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## mesupra (Sep 11, 2011)

Have you thought about purchasing a good used splitter, if you mildly mechanically inclined and can weld purchasing most any decent hydro splitter and modifying it to suit your needs should easily keep you under budget.


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## Locust Cutter (Sep 11, 2011)

Well, 
I cut 10-20 cords/yr depending on my availability and Mother Nature's inclination. I love the 35ton Speeco that I have (Think D9 Cat power), but am going to purchase an S.S. or D.R. flywheel splitter soon. Power is nice when it's needed, but a single blade (2-way) hyd splitter is an exercise in patience. The flywheel splitters, in decent wood, are marvels of efficiency (in regards to time). Buy either one now and then get the other when you can afford it. You'll not regret it. :msp_thumbsup:


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## Maplekid (Sep 11, 2011)

Add the speedpro made by speedco from tsc to your list. Super split speed and power for the price of a hv


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## Rio_Grande (Sep 11, 2011)

Maple I havent seen that one. TSC sells it?


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## Maplekid (Sep 11, 2011)

yes they do. I just heard of it on here today. Its on tsc website. It says its in select stores only.


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## Rio_Grande (Sep 11, 2011)

Thanks, Found it when I read on down the list.

http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/180355.htm


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## sb47 (Sep 12, 2011)

I have a Huskee 22 ton vertical/horizontal splitter with a Honda motor and like it fairly well though it’s the first and only big splitter I have owned or used. I did get a DR electric splitter but it was too small for the big stuff so I sent it back. I would like to have a small electric one for splitting kindling and small chunk wood. And with electric I could do it indoors.
I found that if I cut the big heavy rounds in half or quarters and use a dolly to wheel them to the splitter it’s much easier. I put it in the vertical and I use an old piece of plywood and lay it down on top of the part that’s on the ground. When I roll up with the dolly and drop the half round on the plywood it lands on top of the metal plate on the bottom so I don’t have to lift it. The dolly helps a lot! Once I get them split to a size I can handle I flip it to the horizontal and finish up. 

I only had one problem with the splitter, the carburetor. It ran fine the first year, and befor I stored it away I ran the carb dry and removed all the gas so it wouldn’t gum up.
That didn’t work so I paid $70. to have the carb rebuilt. It ran fine the next year and I used Stabil in the fuel instead of running it dry. That didn’t work ether.lol this time I asked about a new carb for it and it was only $40.00 so I put it on myself and it’s ran fine ever since. Could be it was a bad carb from the start though it did run fine for a while.

Pecan wood will bog it down quite a bit but I think the pump may be getting weak. After all I have only split about 100 cords with it so I don’t know if that’s good or bad.

Dennis


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## beerman6 (Sep 12, 2011)

redheadwoodshed said:


> Add another 800 or so bucks while your thinking.



I know I've lost more than that to chiropractors and missing work.


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## sunfish (Sep 12, 2011)

My brother has a farm store V/H hydro, 24 ton. He was having trouble splitting some largish elm rounds. So I grabbed my largest saw and started noodling, I was making two cuts to his one cycle time. He was goin to haul the wood off, but it's now in his firewood stacks. :msp_smile:


As far as which splitter. 

I went with the Super Split J model and could not be happier! Great machine!

Just a bit over $2500 shipped.


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## chiefs584ever (Sep 13, 2011)

I word. Timberwolf.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


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## sachsmo (Sep 13, 2011)

Fiskars, $50 bucks


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## angelo c (Sep 13, 2011)

sachsmo said:


> Fiskars, $50 bucks





.....Chiropractor.....PRICELESS !!!!


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## angelo c (Sep 13, 2011)

redheadwoodshed said:


> Add another 800 or so bucks while your thinking.


 
4 cords of wood ? really ? over the life of the splitter you would rather save $800 and lift logs or bend over and roll them up to a verticle.

you must have an excellent health care plan. More power to ya. As far as my money goes you can't do better then a log lift and a table. Production is way more important then price.


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## MATTYB11 (Sep 13, 2011)

*Timberwolf*

I purchased an entry level timberwolf (TW-p1) about five years ago. I have have had nothing but good luck with the machine sine. I have probably split about six cords a year on average. The machine does not split vertically, so I ordered the manually activated log lift after a few months. I also added the four way wedge for the 12"-18" straight grained stuff.


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## EXCALIBER (Oct 23, 2011)

I guess I am going to be the odd one out again, but hey at least I am consistent. I would suggest you go to a scrap metal place and pick up a nice big I beam ($100), and some other metal to make a splitter. Stop by a tractor parts place and you should be able to pick up a 5 or 6 inch good non leaking cylinder for under $100. Find a design that you like and either build one yourself or have a welding shop fab you one up. You will be way under that $2500 budget, and will have a machine that will leave the super splits in the dust. Guess I don't understand why everyone is so dang in love with the kinetic splitters. They are fine in straight grained easy to split wood, however do not work well on stringy softwood, or hard to split wood which is what I though a splitter was for. They do have a fast cycle time, however with no log lift I will be dammed if I am going to carry piece after piece to the splitter unless you are splitting baby wood with it. You can also build your splitter with a 6 or 8 way split and do one piece every cycle, so one full round processed every 8-10 seconds, there is no way you can do that with the ss or dr or whatever kinetic splitter there is. Plus you only position the wood one time where on a kinetic you are constantly grabbing the wood and repositioning it, pain in the ass if you ask me. Just some ideas


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## angelo c (Oct 23, 2011)

EXCALIBER said:


> I guess I am going to be the odd one out again, but hey at least I am consistent. I would suggest you go to a scrap metal place and pick up a nice big I beam ($100), and some other metal to make a splitter. Stop by a tractor parts place and you should be able to pick up a 5 or 6 inch good non leaking cylinder for under $100. Find a design that you like and either build one yourself or have a welding shop fab you one up. You will be way under that $2500 budget, and will have a machine that will leave the super splits in the dust. Guess I don't understand why everyone is so dang in love with the kinetic splitters. They are fine in straight grained easy to split wood, however do not work well on stringy softwood, or hard to split wood which is what I though a splitter was for. They do have a fast cycle time, however with no log lift I will be dammed if I am going to carry piece after piece to the splitter unless you are splitting baby wood with it. You can also build your splitter with a 6 or 8 way split and do one piece every cycle, so one full round processed every 8-10 seconds, there is no way you can do that with the ss or dr or whatever kinetic splitter there is. Plus you only position the wood one time where on a kinetic you are constantly grabbing the wood and repositioning it, pain in the ass if you ask me. Just some ideas



Couple of questions so us Kinetic junkies can better understand your hydro crush...

have you ever tried to run a 6way on anything other then completely straight grained hardwood?
and what is a "stringy softwood" ...

oh and if you're into rollin yer own..you can build a flywheel splitter too and save all that money you're gonna waste on hydro fluid .... hehe.


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## John R (Oct 23, 2011)

I have a 22 ton Speeco from Tractor Supply that splits anything I throw at it.
It will split in vertical or horizontal, for $1000.00 you can't go wrong.
This is my 6th year with it, never any problems at all.
Unless your going to split wood for a living, it'll do you very well.


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## EXCALIBER (Oct 24, 2011)

angelo c said:


> Couple of questions so us Kinetic junkies can better understand your hydro crush...
> 
> have you ever tried to run a 6way on anything other then completely straight grained hardwood?
> and what is a "stringy softwood" ...
> ...


 
Ok lets just start with the basics. There is no log lift for the kinetics, hence you have to manually lift log after log onto the table to split. Like I said I don't know what size rounds you guys usually split but most of my stuff is 20" to 30" on average. I would say that is what most people I know have to work with. Now considering that we have only cottonwood, elm, and pine I will use the first two to demonstrate. I cut my wood to 16" pieces, now that would make a piece of cottonwood that is 20" in diameter 142.6 lbs to lift on the table all day long. Now a 30" dia piece would be 320 lbs, a 36" dia piece 461.3 lbs. Now a piece of elm 30" dia would be 353.3 lbs. Please by all means come lift all that onto your little kinetic table (if it doesn't break it or flip it over) and then have to reposition the pieces about 8 or 9 times on that table each, and you will understand why I prefer to steer clear of them. Like I said depending on what people split it may be ok. If all you split is straight grained hardwood that is a max dia of 16-18 inches you may get by with it. However I live in the real world and wood comes in all sizes not just straight little pieces. Actually last year I split a huge elm tree for a client with my vertical splitter that the trunk was over 4' dia for about 15 feet, good luck splitting that with a kinetic. 

I do like the idea of kinetic splitters as far as the cycle time, less gas used, ect, however for it to be the only splitter someone has and not be able to split most any wood that comes there way, I don't understand why you would have one. Second you can buy a swisher like mine for about $1000 and split everything. So why would you pay $2500 for a kinetic? Now you could also put a slip on 4 way wedge on mine and split that straight grained stuff faster than you can with a kinetic. If a kinetic has a 2 second cycle time and say 1 second to reposition the wood, then 3 seconds per split, if you split a piece 4 times (into quarters) you will spend 12 seconds splitting at best with a kinetic. You can do those same 4 spits with a hydraulic 4 way wedge in 7-10 seconds depending on the splitter cycle time. That's faster and $1500 cheaper. Now imagine a six or eight way split on a hydro, one 20"-30" round processed every 7-10 seconds. Compare that to 24 seconds it would take you to do it on a kinetic. 

Now for your second question what is stringy softwood, that would be cottonwood. You must not have ever split any of it or you would understand. It can swallow that little 6" wedge on a kinetic and never even split the grains, rather just absorb the wedge inside the round because the wood is so soft and stringy. Then you would have to fight the round off the wedge to try it from the other side that didn't split. We do not have hardwoods around here, but after watching videos of people splitting oak, which is what everyone wants to show getting split on there splitters as if it were a challenge, I would say cottonwood is about 10 times harder to split than oak is. 

Like I said they are a good idea but not for a person's only splitter unless you get little easy to split wood. The idea is good just needs to be finished and the price to drop by about $1500 bucks to compete. JMHO


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## karlk (Oct 24, 2011)

I really like my wallenstein


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## KiwiBro (Oct 24, 2011)

Flywheel splitters:

Log lift: it just takes some lateral thinking - look at what the Logrite guys have done with a capstan winch.
Big rounds: someone is going to come out with a 'don't mess with me' vertical flywheel splitter with a rotatable star wedge built into and under the table so the ram drives that round down through the table where the splits drop onto a conveyor. Someone, somewhere, has hoarded and balanced some super heavy flywheels in a workshop full of creative inventiveness and is cooking that up. I can feel it in my bones.


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## Hedgerow (Oct 24, 2011)

EXCALIBER said:


> I guess I am going to be the odd one out again, but hey at least I am consistent. I would suggest you go to a scrap metal place and pick up a nice big I beam ($100), and some other metal to make a splitter. Stop by a tractor parts place and you should be able to pick up a 5 or 6 inch good non leaking cylinder for under $100. Find a design that you like and either build one yourself or have a welding shop fab you one up. You will be way under that $2500 budget, and will have a machine that will leave the super splits in the dust. Guess I don't understand why everyone is so dang in love with the kinetic splitters. They are fine in straight grained easy to split wood, however do not work well on stringy softwood, or hard to split wood which is what I though a splitter was for. They do have a fast cycle time, however with no log lift I will be dammed if I am going to carry piece after piece to the splitter unless you are splitting baby wood with it. You can also build your splitter with a 6 or 8 way split and do one piece every cycle, so one full round processed every 8-10 seconds, there is no way you can do that with the ss or dr or whatever kinetic splitter there is. Plus you only position the wood one time where on a kinetic you are constantly grabbing the wood and repositioning it, pain in the ass if you ask me. Just some ideas


 
Here's a little straight grained soft wood called Hedge for ya...:hmm3grin2orange:

[video=youtube;IIjQd-l1F4A]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIjQd-l1F4A[/video]


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## Hedgerow (Oct 24, 2011)

EXCALIBER said:


> Ok lets just start with the basics. There is no log lift for the kinetics, hence you have to manually lift log after log onto the table to split. Like I said I don't know what size rounds you guys usually split but most of my stuff is 20" to 30" on average. I would say that is what most people I know have to work with. Now considering that we have only cottonwood, elm, and pine I will use the first two to demonstrate. I cut my wood to 16" pieces, now that would make a piece of cottonwood that is 20" in diameter 142.6 lbs to lift on the table all day long. Now a 30" dia piece would be 320 lbs, a 36" dia piece 461.3 lbs. Now a piece of elm 30" dia would be 353.3 lbs. Please by all means come lift all that onto your little kinetic table (if it doesn't break it or flip it over) and then have to reposition the pieces about 8 or 9 times on that table each, and you will understand why I prefer to steer clear of them. Like I said depending on what people split it may be ok. If all you split is straight grained hardwood that is a max dia of 16-18 inches you may get by with it. However I live in the real world and wood comes in all sizes not just straight little pieces. Actually last year I split a huge elm tree for a client with my vertical splitter that the trunk was over 4' dia for about 15 feet, good luck splitting that with a kinetic.
> 
> I do like the idea of kinetic splitters as far as the cycle time, less gas used, ect, however for it to be the only splitter someone has and not be able to split most any wood that comes there way, I don't understand why you would have one. Second you can buy a swisher like mine for about $1000 and split everything. So why would you pay $2500 for a kinetic? Now you could also put a slip on 4 way wedge on mine and split that straight grained stuff faster than you can with a kinetic. If a kinetic has a 2 second cycle time and say 1 second to reposition the wood, then 3 seconds per split, if you split a piece 4 times (into quarters) you will spend 12 seconds splitting at best with a kinetic. You can do those same 4 spits with a hydraulic 4 way wedge in 7-10 seconds depending on the splitter cycle time. That's faster and $1500 cheaper. Now imagine a six or eight way split on a hydro, one 20"-30" round processed every 7-10 seconds. Compare that to 24 seconds it would take you to do it on a kinetic.
> 
> ...


 Good grief, you got a 7900!!! Noodle those 30" rounds!


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## sunfish (Oct 24, 2011)

Hedgerow said:


> Here's a little straight grained soft wood called Hedge for ya...:hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> [video=youtube;IIjQd-l1F4A]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIjQd-l1F4A[/video]



I can vouch for the Super Split, I was there. Man that was some nasty wood! :msp_biggrin:


Hedgerow said:


> Good grief, you got a 7900!!! Noodle those 30" rounds!


 
Right on man! I noodle what I can't lift. Used to use a maul...


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## Hedgerow (Oct 24, 2011)

Oh I forgot... Here's some Elm...
Just sayin...

[video=youtube;skG1n3jdj_k]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skG1n3jdj_k[/video]


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## angelo c (Oct 24, 2011)

EXCALIBER said:


> Ok lets just start with the basics. There is no log lift for the kinetics, hence you have to manually lift log after log onto the table to split.
> 
> I usually split right from the back of my truck or load the rounds from my bed to my equiptment trailer and split from there. Also there is no lift on the "average" hydro. I think a reasonable splitter with a lift would be a Tw 2 at around 2500 er so.
> 
> ...


 
I got no idea what cottonwood is...we got plenty of crap poplar around here thats soft, and useless in a fire so I'll call that our "softwood" and have split plenty of 24-30" rounds with no thoughts of absorbing a wedge or witches flying out of my butt. 

Im not saying it will split everything but I don't think you have used one to have such a strong opinion against one.

A large amount of making a tool work best is knowing how to use the tool best. That means knowing what woods split at what MC and where to "place" the rounds when splitting them.
I look at using a SS as a alternative to a maul in that the shots must be "placed" or you are wasting energy, time and will. Of course that applies to a hydro as well. I've placed many rounds randomly on a TW6 with a 4 way and jammed it too. a knot is a knot is a knot no matter what the wood or splitter.


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## KiwiBro (Oct 25, 2011)

Thanks for the videos. So, was there a consensus on the best ways to 'work the wood' when you get into tough stuff?

Were there any other flywheel splitters there for direct comparison?

I'm not impressed with the 7900's clutch cover noodle clearing ability. It clogs much more often than my stihls. Sure, easy to shorten the noodles but that's not as much fun.

*Edit*
A log lift (and something more versatile in fact) is possible. Look at the Logrite capstan winch adaptation.


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## Locust Cutter (Oct 25, 2011)

KiwiBro said:


> Thanks for the videos. So, was there a consensus on the best ways to 'work the wood' when you get into tough stuff?
> 
> Were there any other flywheel splitters there for direct comparison?
> 
> ...


 
It seems that chipping away at the outside, and then working inwards, rather than going for center-mass and cleaning up afterwards is the way to go w/kinetics. After seeing Sunfish's in action confirmed that. I was truly impressed at how quickly and effectively it worked. It still cleared the log faster than my 35 ton Speeco. I will still keep my Speeco, as it's a solid unit, but there WILL be a S.S. in my future (thanks Sunfish, my Wife is Pissed now), lol. As far as comparisons, there were no other models there for representation or comparison, but I'd suspect that the D.R. would have had similar results. I like the Capstan winch idea in the Logrite design for various reasons, but there is more room for "lateral thinking". If one were to include a 3rd flywheel w/a gear reduction, it could be used as a power-source for an add-on belt-driven conveyor. The Capstan could be on the side w/a dog-leg log lift, loading deck. That would give you a loading feature and a potentially larger staging table for logs than TW or BR provides. If nothing else, the industrial age taught us how to make more efficient use of kinetic energy. It seems sad that it hasn't been tapped into yet. Nothing against Paul in the least as I have never met the man, and the S.S. is a darn solid machine. I just think it could be better. A different actuator handle and about an inch taller wedge would be nice as well. I have some other ideas for adjusting work height and improving mobility.

My $0.02


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## Hedgerow (Oct 26, 2011)

KiwiBro said:


> Thanks for the videos. So, was there a consensus on the best ways to 'work the wood' when you get into tough stuff?
> 
> Were there any other flywheel splitters there for direct comparison?
> 
> ...


 
Hey now! Don't be dissin' my 7900!!! It's 79cc's of sheer awesomeness!!! Just ask ole Locust Cutter, he got to run it last weekend... Just sayin'... :msp_sneaky:


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## EXCALIBER (Oct 26, 2011)

Ok first I agree with the 7900 clogging when noodling. Have never run a stihl as I tend to break them must be jinxed or something. Second why would you buy a wood splitter if you had to turn around and noodle every dang round to bite sized pieces so your splitter could split it. Heck I will be there all dang day noodling, and I would just save the $2500 and just noodle them all, after all why buy a splitter when you can noodle right. I use noodling as a last ditch effort usually on pieces over 3ft diameter. 

Yes did see the video of the logrite setup and looks like a nice one. However at 10K for a splitter it better split, stack, and load my stove plus clean the ashes out. Oh and I expect breakfast in bed and my pillow turned down every night. That is about 3 times what I would ever spend on a splitter, guess I am just cheap. Now since you guys like kinetics so much here is a video for ya and just think you could make one of these for a couple hundred bucks! 
[video=youtube;IAddyGNZ1cQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAddyGNZ1cQ[/video]
[video=youtube;2bVAAx3mMKY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bVAAx3mMKY&feature=related[/video]


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## KiwiBro (Oct 26, 2011)

EXCALIBER said:


> Second why would you buy a wood splitter if you had to turn around and noodle every dang round to bite sized pieces so your splitter could split it.


I for one wouldn't buy it, unless there was a vert' hydraulic with round lifter on hand to break the rounds down.
Noodling is way too slow and messy if you've got plenty of big'ns to get through.
I'm digging that video of the auto cycle splitter. If it had a wee bit more stroke to buy just a little more time (or rounds cut slightly shorter) it'll be near awesome. Thanks.


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## sunfish (Oct 26, 2011)

EXCALIBER said:


> Second why would you buy a wood splitter if you had to turn around and noodle every dang round to bite sized pieces so your splitter could split it. Heck I will be there all dang day noodling, and I would just save the $2500 and just noodle them all, after all why buy a splitter when you can noodle right. I use noodling as a last ditch effort usually on pieces over 3ft diameter.


 
The SS can split anything you put on it. I noodle (or split with a maul) the big stuff to load the pickup in the woods by hand. So I have a pile of rounds and chunks I can lift when I start splittin. Super simple man!


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## sunfish (Oct 26, 2011)

KiwiBro said:


> I for one wouldn't buy it, unless there was a vert' hydraulic with round lifter on hand to break the rounds down.
> *Noodling is way too slow and messy if you've got plenty of big'ns to get through.*
> I'm digging that video of the auto cycle splitter. If it had a wee bit more stroke to buy just a little more time (or rounds cut slightly shorter) it'll be near awesome. Thanks.


 
I can noodle big nasty, knotty, stringy rounds as fast or faster than the average hydro slitter.

Just takes the right saw. :msp_wink:


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## Hedgerow (Oct 26, 2011)

sunfish said:


> I can noodle big nasty, knotty, stringy rounds as fast or faster than the average hydro slitter.
> 
> Just takes the right saw. :msp_wink:


 
I aint met a 30" piece I couldn't chunk into liftable size slabs in under a couple minutes... I don't do the vertical splitting thing. As a matter of fact, I got a ~32" hackberry trunk to deal with this weekend. Don? Remind me to video the stumpy way of cutting wood... "It gets noodled before it ever leaves the trunk..."
:big_smile:


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## sunfish (Oct 26, 2011)

Hedgerow said:


> I aint met a 30" piece I couldn't chunk into liftable size slabs in under a couple minutes... I don't do the vertical splitting thing. As a matter of fact, I got a ~32" hackberry trunk to deal with this weekend. *Don? Remind me to video the stumpy way of cutting wood... "It gets noodled before it ever leaves the trunk..."*
> :big_smile:


 
Yeah, I'd like to see that.

I don't think Stumpy has split a piece of wood in a couple years...and he burns a lot! :msp_scared:


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## EXCALIBER (Oct 26, 2011)

sunfish said:


> I can noodle big nasty, knotty, stringy rounds as fast or faster than the average hydro slitter.
> 
> Just takes the right saw. :msp_wink:


 
That would be interesting to see you must have one of those chevy 350 powered monster saws! I can roll and split a 30 inch round with my hydro in under I would say 30 seconds. I bet it takes you over a minute to noodle a 30 inch round with a saw.

Yes you could noodle every piece of wood ya get I guess, and I could hook my riding mower to my boat and drive to the lake, just not practical.


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## KiwiBro (Oct 26, 2011)

Hedgerow said:


> Hey now! Don't be dissin' my 7900!!! It's 79cc's of sheer awesomeness!!! Just ask ole Locust Cutter, he got to run it last weekend... Just sayin'... :msp_sneaky:



You fun-lov'n evangelists are all the same. All so me-centric. "My" dolmar, because "I" am happy to watch paint dry noodling the few big rounds "I" have then it should work for everybody regardless of how much big wood they regularly see, etc. :bang::biggrin:

The flywheel splitter seems great for smaller stuff that doesn't require noodling or for users who are happy to noodle or even if they are not happy to do so at least have proportionately more smaller stuff than bigger stuff to make up for the noodling time and hassle and man-handling largish bits back and forth on the splitter table like the flywheel splitters demand. But it's horses for courses. Not everyone is on the same course, dealing with the same woods and has the same control over the nature or flow of wood in and wood out.

So much of these scenarios seem to be too focussed on one aspect of the whole process. There are some great systems out there that I would never use in a million years but which work very well for the people using them, given the myriad parameters they (not I or anyone else necessarily) are faced with. Likewise, there is some wonderful gear that just doesn't 'fit' with the systems people need to best employ and therefore never reach their theoretical potential. Conversely, there are some rather unglamorous bits of kit that fit so well into a system that the whole system becomes a magical sum of all it's parts without bottlenecks.

BTW, the 7900 here will get a good workout this Summer on some pretty big wood. Looking forward to it.


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## KiwiBro (Oct 26, 2011)

EXCALIBER said:


> and I could hook my riding mower to my boat and drive to the lake, just not practical.


Don't laugh...it's been done, and quite frequently, although it is to the coast not the lake and it's only a small aluminium boat on quiet roads :msp_biggrin:


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## Hedgerow (Oct 26, 2011)

EXCALIBER said:


> That would be interesting to see you must have one of those chevy 350 powered monster saws! I can roll and split a 30 inch round with my hydro in under I would say 30 seconds. I bet it takes you over a minute to noodle a 30 inch round with a saw.
> 
> Yes you could noodle every piece of wood ya get I guess, and I could hook my riding mower to my boat and drive to the lake, just not practical.


 
Video... Or it didn't happen...
Just sayin...:msp_tongue:


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## Hedgerow (Oct 26, 2011)

KiwiBro said:


> You fun-lov'n evangelists are all the same. All so me-centric. "My" dolmar, because "I" am happy to watch paint dry noodling the few big rounds "I" have then it should work for everybody regardless of how much big wood they regularly see, etc. :bang::biggrin:





KiwiBro said:


> The flywheel splitter seems great for smaller stuff that doesn't require noodling or for users who are happy to noodle or even if they are not happy to do so at least have proportionately more smaller stuff than bigger stuff to make up for the noodling time and hassle and man-handling largish bits back and forth on the splitter table like the flywheel splitters demand. But it's horses for courses. Not everyone is on the same course, dealing with the same woods and has the same control over the nature or flow of wood in and wood out.
> 
> So much of these scenarios seem to be too focussed on one aspect of the whole process. There are some great systems out there that I would never use in a million years but which work very well for the people using them, given the myriad parameters they (not I or anyone else necessarily) are faced with. Likewise, there is some wonderful gear that just doesn't 'fit' with the systems people need to best employ and therefore never reach their theoretical potential. Conversely, there are some rather unglamorous bits of kit that fit so well into a system that the whole system becomes a magical sum of all it's parts without bottlenecks.
> 
> BTW, the 7900 here will get a good workout this Summer on some pretty big wood. Looking forward to it.


 
Yah... We tend to be a bunch of goofballs... But sometimes ya gotta make sport of it, or it turns into a helluvalotta work...:msp_biggrin:


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## sunfish (Oct 26, 2011)

EXCALIBER said:


> That would be interesting to see you must have one of those chevy 350 powered monster saws! I can roll and split a 30 inch round with my hydro in under I would say 30 seconds. I bet it takes you over a minute to noodle a 30 inch round with a saw.
> 
> Yes you could noodle every piece of wood ya get I guess, and I could hook my riding mower to my boat and drive to the lake, just not practical.


 
I bet less than a minute with my big saw, never timed it.

As far as noodlin every piece of wood, I ain't doin it. Just the ones I can't pick up.

It's all good.


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## KiwiBro (Oct 27, 2011)

*Getting closer?*

Something like this but with a few mods perhaps?:

**edit** actually, it's probably getting much further away rather than closer as it's over $10k. A far cry from the $2.5k budget.

[video=youtube;DbTCeai9ces]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbTCeai9ces&feature=fvwk[/video]

[video=youtube;eKa4UYFAcsQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKa4UYFAcsQ[/video]



EXCALIBER said:


> That would be interesting to see you must have one of those chevy 350 powered monster saws! I can roll and split a 30 inch round with my hydro in under I would say 30 seconds. I bet it takes you over a minute to noodle a 30 inch round with a saw.
> 
> Yes you could noodle every piece of wood ya get I guess, and I could hook my riding mower to my boat and drive to the lake, just not practical.


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## jdubbmancandy (May 25, 2012)

avalancher said:


> After listening to the advise of several members, I bought the Speeco 35 ton through Omni manufacturers.$1900 delivered including a log table and a four way head, I couldnt be more pleased. It has the ram mounted wedge like you mentioned, and can be swung down vertical if you like.I have only put five cords through it so far in the two weeks that I have had it, but I have found it a flawless machine.I bought mine with the Briggs engine, but the Honda engine is available for I think $300 bucks more. I think they are having a special right now of $100 off, so if you want just the splitter without a log table its $1700 with free freight. Check it out here
> Speeco 35 ton B&S 1450 OHV Vertical & Horizontal Log Splitter - OMNI Mfg



i did the same i bought a 35 ton speeco and love it i have the bs engine also found mine on sale at wilco for 1550 they are from what i have read as the best bang for the buck i have done prolly 10 cord with another 5-6 cord down at my fathers place.Steve is correct in my opinion the vertical is just a hassle and way slower i cut into to chucks i can pick up and handle the only thing i dont like is the small tires u dont wanna go over like 50 mph but over all a great splitter so far imo.


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## owbguy (May 26, 2012)

The kinetics are great. No doubt. I'd love to have one, and probably will get one one day. There is a use for them. If all your splitting is little stuff, like in the videos posted in this thread, then kinetic is the way to go. If you have mostly big rounds though, kinetic is not the answer. The kinetic vs. hydro comparison is not apples to apples. Splitters are not a one-size-fits-all tool. Each has a purpose.


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## Magnoliaman (Jan 23, 2013)

*Get a Supersplit*



Redbox02 said:


> I have read a lot of the opinions on the forums about log splitters. I have $2500 to spend and looking for the best built one.
> 
> It seems like the horizontal/vertical is the best way to go.
> 
> ...


I would suggest a Supersplit. It is very fast, simple and reliable.


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## Locust Cutter (Jan 24, 2013)

KiwiBro said:


> Something like this but with a few mods perhaps?:
> 
> **edit** actually, it's probably getting much further away rather than closer as it's over $10k. A far cry from the $2.5k budget.
> 
> [video=youtube;eKa4UYFAcsQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKa4UYFAcsQ[/video]



The only problem with these units, is that the website explicitly states that if you split any crotch wood you have effectively voided the warranty for the box wedges. On the East or West coasts, where trees are string straight and TALL, this splitter or a TW-7 would be fantastic. In the Mid-West, where we have trees with short/wide trunks and LARGE canopies, that would void the warranty immediately. I cannot imagine paying give or take $10K for a "Professional splitter", that cant handle a crotch... Give me a H.D-S.S and I'll knock out some splitting. I WILL have a S.S. I will retain my 35ton Speeco for now, in case I actually still have a use for it. It may be handy to use it going to the woods to work the wood down to a manageable size and finish it up with the S.S. at home...


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