# Norwood blades sharpening Question....Lumbermate 2000



## scotclayshooter (Nov 6, 2011)

Hello again guys!
I seem to have had a bit of a career change, Where I am now we have a Lumbermate 2000 (Going to be trained on it soon) The Q is with a new blade 1500Board feet is normal but when that blade goes and gets sharpened, Were only getting 300-500 BF out of it before its really dull. £9 per sharpen.......
And the blades only last for 4 to 5 sharpens!

I would have thought it should be as good as new and not blunt so quick......
I think were getting a norwood sharpener and setter very soon (both standard) are they any good?

Any hints and tips for both sharpening and using this mill?


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## betterbuilt (Nov 6, 2011)

I by no means have a bandmill, but I do spend alot of time around one. My friends mill has a big stack of broken bands that is a reminder to me that they do get dull and break. I would think keeping that blade cool is pretty important. I know from factory they are hardened and if you get them to hot the tempering would be affected. I have also seen the bands get fractures in the metal from going around and around or from the tension. I do remember he was having a problem with the guy the guy that was sharpening them. The guy wasn't setting the teeth right and he wouldn't get but a few hundred bft before he would have to change the band. He had to find a new guy to sharpen for him. The new guy charges $5 a band and even picks them up and delivers them. 

Best of luck. BB


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## scotclayshooter (Nov 19, 2011)

Seeing as i crashed and burned with the last question I will try again lol

Another affordable Band grinder is the Logosol http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYxihY957Dc


Any good? Any reviews? any other options?

Looks like we will be trying the Ripper 37 blades next week, Ripper37 | Primary Wood Processing Bandsaw Blades | Timber Ripping

Made in the UK! and much cheaper than Norwood......


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## hamish (Nov 19, 2011)

Band life is dependant upon too many factors, and outside influences to be consistant. Band life is dependant upon the quality of eveything involved from the sawyer, to the logs being milled, to the manufacturer of the band and the mill, to the sharpening process used. 
If you are milling the same timbers and going from 1500bf to 300bf with a re-sharpened band there is a problem, check the set on the re-sharpened bands.

I like the ripper37 bands alot and as Dakin-Flathers is in the UK, you are set. The Norwood bands are expensive when one orders then via Norwood. They are a copy of the timberwolf band and are sold all over as Goldlines, only when you add the Norwood name does the price jump. Here in Canada I can get Goldlines for 0.18 cents per inch, from Norwood I jump to 0.22, close to six dollars a band difference, I would much rather have my bands and my pints too!

You will like the Ripper37, thus far it has been the most consistant band I have every used.


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## scotclayshooter (Nov 20, 2011)

Its more than just the set, Measured the hook angle as 18°........ Should be 8-10° the new norwood blades show 10°

Theres a blade STUCK in a log at the moment and travel speed is down to a crawl.


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## Sawyer Rob (Nov 21, 2011)

I know for a fact that conpanys keep sending bands to Norwood to tring, to get them to switch to "their" brand. I know this because Norwood has sent some of them for me to try for them.

I've yet to use any band that works better than a Goldline for "all around" sawing. I don't change bands between soft or hard wood, i use the Goldlines for everything. And so far, for me, i've found no band that last longer or cuts as well.

The last bands Norwood sent me to try, they cut really good in clear wood, but when i put a knotty white pine on, they were dipping/diveing all over the place! Worse than any band i tried in a long time.

Later i resharped the bands, and they seemed to do better, but i'd still never buy them.

Long story short, i just buy the Goldlines, use them for everything and resharp/set them myself, and i'm happy with them.

Rob


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