# Video: How to tune a chainsaw



## blsnelling (Oct 29, 2009)

There's more to tuning a chainsaw than just adjusting the high end, but this is a start. It also gives an excellent example of what 4-stroking sounds like.

In the first cut, the saw continues to 4-stroke, even towards the bottom of the cut. That's a little too rich. It should run clean all the way through the cut once under load. 

After that first cut, I tune the H screw. I turn the H screw in clockwise until the engine peaks out and is totally 2-stroking. No 4-stroke at all. I then quickly richen the mixture back up by turning the H needle counter-clockwise. Immediately you hear the engine begine 4-stroking again.

The next cut you can hear the engine immediately clean out once underload, and stay that way for the entire cut. After that cut I rev the saw and you can hear that it is still 4-stroking at WOT. It's important to check for that after a cut, since that's when your saw will be its hottest and leanest.





I'll try to make a more detailed tuning how-to video that includes L and LA adjustments.


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## BlacknTan (Oct 29, 2009)

That's an excellent tutorial, Brad!

Much better than the soundclip on Madsen's site, IMHO..

Looking forward to more.


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## John Ellison (Oct 29, 2009)

BlacknTan said:


> That's an excellent tutorial, Brad!
> 
> Much better than the soundclip on Madsen's site, IMHO..
> 
> Looking forward to more.



Yep, that could help save some headaches and brand new saws.


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## blsnelling (Oct 29, 2009)

So how do you tune the H on your rev limited saws? Well, it's really not all that much different. As I mentioned you can hear it continuing to 4-stroke through out the first cut. Since you can't tune at WOT on a rev limited saw, just go ahead and turn the H needle in clockwise maybe 1/16 of a turn. I'm talking a *very small* amount. When you're close to right, a *very small adjustment* can make a *huge difference*. Then make another cut. If it's still 4-stroking in the cut, give it another small adjustment clockwise. Do this until the saw runs cleanly through out the cut.


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## redunshee (Oct 29, 2009)

John Ellison said:


> Yep, that could help save some headaches and brand new saws.



+1. Did it again Brad.


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## StihlyinEly (Oct 29, 2009)

Good stuff, Brad. It helps to see it as well as hear it. 

I look forward to the full H, L and LA tutorial vid! opcorn:


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## TRI955 (Oct 29, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> There's more to tuning a chainsaw than just adjusting the high end, but this is a start. It also gives an excellent example of what 4-stroking sounds like.
> 
> In the first cut, the saw continues to 4-stroke, even towards the bottom of the cut. That's a little too rich. It should run clean all the way through the cut once under load.
> 
> ...



If I've seen you do it once, I'd swear I've seen you do it a hundred times!!!! Good post again Brad!!!


Mike


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## blsnelling (Oct 29, 2009)

TRI955 said:


> If I've seen you do it once, I'd swear I've seen you do it a hundred times!!!! Good post again Brad!!!
> 
> 
> Mike



And you've only met me once, LOL:agree2:


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## TRI955 (Oct 29, 2009)

You should put this and the pressure test together and make it a sticky!!!


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## StihlyinEly (Oct 29, 2009)

TRI955 said:


> You should put this and the pressure test together and make it a sticky!!!



Oh yeah! I've always been a sticky how-to fan. :agree2:


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## TraditionalTool (Oct 29, 2009)

That is pretty good, but your capable of a much better video Brad. Not to be the bad apple, just that it is one simple H tuning in the video.

Would be nice to see a video that explains exactly what you describe, so that it doesn't leave any guessing for folks.

Rather than a sticky, I'd rather see a forum where tutorials could be posted, and keep them all together.


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## blsnelling (Oct 29, 2009)

TraditionalTool said:


> That is pretty good, but your capable of a much better video Brad. Not to be the bad apple, just that it is one simple H tuning in the video.
> 
> Would be nice to see a video that explains exactly what you describe, so that it doesn't leave any guessing for folks.
> 
> Rather than a sticky, I'd rather see a forum where tutorials could be posted, and keep them all together.



I stated as much in the first post. I may actually be able to do that tonight.


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## StihlyinEly (Oct 29, 2009)

TraditionalTool said:


> That is pretty good, but your capable of a much better video Brad. Not to be the bad apple, just that it is one simple H tuning in the video.
> 
> Would be nice to see a video that explains exactly what you describe, so that it doesn't leave any guessing for folks.
> 
> *Rather than a sticky, I'd rather see a forum where tutorials could be posted, and keep them all together.*



Now that's an even better idea! 

If Brad's crank seal/pressure/vac tutorial is anything to go by, I'm sure the more formal tuning vid, when it comes, will be informative and complete.


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## Kansas (Oct 29, 2009)

Thank you sir! 

Hearing that makes me feel better thats pretty much how Ive been adjusting my saws too. I didnt know if it was right or not but I do what sounds crisp and clean under a load on the h screw and quick accel with no stumble on the low screw. 

Kansas


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## dingeryote (Oct 29, 2009)

Good job on the tutorial Brad!!

I have been tinkering with the 372 post Muffler mod. and my ears have gotten lean scream paranoid LOL!!

Just can't seem to find and keep a light 4 stroke that is "Comfy" LOL!!!

Somebody elses reference is good for the nerves!

Thanks!
Dingeryote


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## GASoline71 (Oct 29, 2009)

Good post and vid Brad... 

Gary


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## blsnelling (Oct 29, 2009)

Thanks guys.


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## FELLNORTH (Oct 29, 2009)

great vid brad


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## sefh3 (Oct 29, 2009)

Excellent Job!!!!!!


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## TraditionalTool (Oct 29, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I stated as much in the first post. I may actually be able to do that tonight.


That would be nice, I'll watch for it, not holding you to tonight.

This was good, don't get me wrong Brad, just sayin'...in follow up to what you were sayin'...(and yes, I noted you made comment to that effect).


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## whitedogone (Oct 29, 2009)

sweet


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## KMB (Oct 29, 2009)

Good job Brad. It was worth the dial-up download wait. 

Kevin


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## TreePointer (Oct 29, 2009)

Youdaman, Brad! 

Thanks for the vid.


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## matt9923 (Oct 29, 2009)

Great job as always Brad!! 

It might cut back on the how do i tune my saw threads by a few %..LOL
Video is better then my words could describe how it should sound.


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## whitedogone (Oct 29, 2009)

Does Stihl offer special hardened screws that you use Brad. Or do you just replace them often? :monkey:


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## maico490 (Oct 29, 2009)

Good job Brad for reposting the vid and explaining what's going on.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=113055&highlight=28"+buried

Post#8


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## woodgrenade (Oct 29, 2009)

Great video and explanation as always Brad. Quick question though. Did you trim the tabs off the limiters, then re-install on this saw?


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## blsnelling (Oct 29, 2009)

woodgrenade said:


> Great video and explanation as always Brad. Quick question though. Did you trim the tabs off the limiters, then re-install on this saw?



I don't own a saw with the tabs still on the limiter caps. They get clipped immediately.

No video tonight. I had to install a mulching kit on my mower so that I can get my leaves taken care of.


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## Adirondack (Oct 29, 2009)

Thanks.


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## Trigger Man (Oct 29, 2009)

The video was A-1! Can't wait for the full feature! Good job Brad!:rockn:

Now let me just say I know a lot of cocky, arrogant people and none of them would be as helpfull as you are my friend!


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## Trigger Man (Oct 29, 2009)

Brad would you recommend running a new saw for the first time(first tank of fuel) set up the way your saw cut in the very first cut in your video?


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## blsnelling (Oct 29, 2009)

Trigger Man said:


> Brad would you recommend running a new saw for the first time(first tank of fuel) set up the way your saw cut in the very first cut in your video?



Absolutely. That's about where'd I'd want it for a tank or two.


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## OhioGregg (Oct 29, 2009)

Great video tutorial Brad!

Your posts & videos are allways some of the most usefull and entertaining reads on Arborsite!

Thanks For takin the time to do it!


Gregg,


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## outdoorlivin247 (Oct 29, 2009)

TRI955 said:


> If I've seen you do it once, I'd swear I've seen you do it a hundred times!!!! Good post again Brad!!!
> 
> 
> Mike




...Sorry, Brad but that was funny......


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## Teddy.Scout (Oct 29, 2009)

I needed that!

Thanks!

But I will wait till morning!!!!!!!!!


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## Kenskip1 (Oct 29, 2009)

*Tune*

You may be able to tune a saw but, I am able to tuna fish,Ken


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## gee_dubya75 (Oct 29, 2009)

This is my first post so let me start by saying what a great forum this is!! Also, great video.

I understand why you set up a saw so that it is fourstroking at WOT but can someone explain what is actually going on in the engine that is causing it to 'warble'? I'm new to chainsaw--thanks.


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## Cheese (Oct 30, 2009)

I have spent a lot of time here, that is the first time that I have actually heard the 4 stroke and the resolution!

Thanks for sharing and taking the time on this, a lot of stuff just made sense to my pea brain.


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## songofthewood (Oct 30, 2009)

Great vid Brad!!!


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## aldo (Oct 30, 2009)

Good explanation and good video for picking up the sound difference. Now I just have to forward it to the tossers who sold me my new saw.


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## mtfallsmikey (Oct 30, 2009)

Excellent Brad! Thanks.


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## whitedogone (Oct 30, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> There's more to tuning a chainsaw than just adjusting the high end, but this is a start. It also gives an excellent example of what 4-stroking sounds like.
> 
> In the first cut, the saw continues to 4-stroke, even towards the bottom of the cut. That's a little too rich. It should run clean all the way through the cut once under load.
> 
> ...



I can't hear that


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## mtfallsmikey (Oct 30, 2009)

whitedogone said:


> I can't hear that



I had to back the video up a couple of times to hear it...just for a split second when Brad blips the throttle after adjustment/ 1st cut.....


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## whitedogone (Oct 30, 2009)

the last cut is where I can't make it out.


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## bytehoven (Dec 10, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Absolutely. That's about where'd I'd want it for a tank or two.



Brad...

Have you posted an expanded video for tuning L LA? I searched but did not see.

Thanks

RJ
...


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## oceancruze1 (Dec 10, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> There's more to tuning a chainsaw than just adjusting the high end, but this is a start. It also gives an excellent example of what 4-stroking sounds like.
> 
> In the first cut, the saw continues to 4-stroke, even towards the bottom of the cut. That's a little too rich. It should run clean all the way through the cut once under load.
> 
> ...




No come down on me being an amateur. What exactly does 4 stroking mean? The sound of a two stoke engine running as if it was a 4 stroke running smoothly??

Carl


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## blsnelling (Dec 10, 2009)

bytehoven said:


> Brad...
> 
> Have you posted an expanded video for tuning L LA? I searched but did not see.
> 
> ...



There's an example of it in the 3120 Gone Wild thread.


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## bytehoven (Dec 10, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> There's an example of it in the 3120 Gone Wild thread.



Gracias!


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## LazyJ (Dec 10, 2009)

Even if I owned a tach I would still fine tune by this method. What's the comparison of this in the cut method to a tach tune, generally richer or leaner?


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## blsnelling (Dec 10, 2009)

LazyJ said:


> Even if I owned a tach I would still fine tune by this method. What's the comparison of this in the cut method to a tach tune, generally richer or leaner?



Tune it in the wood, record that RPM, and then you can duplicate that with your tach.


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## PHobbes (Aug 11, 2010)

Thanks for the Vid! My 029 is running like a champ now!


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## rmihalek (Aug 11, 2010)

*Different Strokes*



oceancruze1 said:


> No come down on me being an amateur. What exactly does 4 stroking mean? The sound of a two stoke engine running as if it was a 4 stroke running smoothly??
> 
> Carl



I believe that an overly rich mixture loads up the plug, so the engine is not able to fire on every stroke. Hence, it may fire on every other stroke (like a 4 stroke) or even worse, every third stroke, etc. Make it too rich and the plug will foul.


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Aug 11, 2010)

I take it that at WOT even after the cut that you're not that concerned about the MAX RPM's at this point, but more with the sound of the 4 stroke at top end. Am I right to assume this or am I missing something. (I indeed can hear the 4 stroking, but was wondering if -500 or -700 off the top end with a tach would be the same thing?). Can you elaborate? Thanks! I enjoyed the video.


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## blsnelling (Aug 11, 2010)

Stihlofadeal64 said:


> I take it that at WOT even after the cut that you're not that concerned about the MAX RPM's at this point, but more with the sound of the 4 stroke at top end. Am I right to assume this or am I missing something. (I indeed can hear the 4 stroking, but was wondering if -500 or -700 off the top end with a tach would be the same thing?). Can you elaborate? Thanks! I enjoyed the video.



Tune it in the wood, as shown, the use your tach to see what RPMs it's turning. You can then use that as a reference point.


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## powerking (Oct 15, 2010)

Great Job Brad!! I'm making popcorn now and waiting for the entire "saw tuning" collection of vid's!!!
Rich


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## JustinM (Oct 15, 2010)

brad, excellent video!


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## blsnelling (Oct 15, 2010)

Glad I could help.


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## kirkeg (Oct 15, 2010)

I was wondering if i got that tune right - thanks blsnelling


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## Dan_IN_MN (Oct 15, 2010)

oceancruze1 said:


> No come down on me being an amateur. What exactly does 4 stroking mean? The sound of a two stoke engine running as if it was a 4 stroke running smoothly??
> 
> Carl





rmihalek said:


> I believe that an overly rich mixture loads up the plug, so the engine is not able to fire on every stroke. Hence, it may fire on every other stroke (like a 4 stroke) or even worse, every third stroke, etc. Make it too rich and the plug will foul.



This sounds good........can anyone confirm? I've also been thinking about what is going on when the engine is "4 stroking" or "fluttering".

I just found this tread and thought it was so good that I put a link in my sig.


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## kgb007stb (Oct 20, 2010)

Great post on the four stroke tuning, I could not distinguish between the WOT four stroking after the final cut, could have been my computer speakers.

My biggest problem was deciding at what point should the four stroking go away, on my 55 rancher that has a gutted exhaust it goes away at around ¼ load on a sharp chain and always four-strokes after being pulled out of a cut at WOT. Tach specs at 12,200 altitude 1475 feet.

Pulling out of a long cut, is it better to back off and then check at WOT for four-stroking? I usually end up pulling out of a cut at WOT when checking for four-stroking as some loggers told me that backing off even for a shot time causes a change in the mixture and engine temperature drop.

Just curious on the L side do you check by the “roll test” to see if the saw is loading up on unnecessary fuel in the crank case?


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## bowtechmadman (Oct 20, 2010)

Great thread Brad!


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## Brian13 (Oct 20, 2010)

Thanks Brad, this thread has been very helpful learning how to tune my saws. What do you do on a fresh rebuild to tune it during the break in?


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## skidud (Oct 20, 2010)

Wow, them Ohio boys sure are sharp!

Superb video, I too was leery of my saw being too lean. I was guessing the sound it was making was the 4 cycling, but I wasn't confident enough to lean it out any. After running it like that all day, I got the worst headache from smelling the rich fumes all day. I'll never do that again. Thanks and great work.


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## blsnelling (Oct 20, 2010)

Brian13 said:


> Thanks Brad, this thread has been very helpful learning how to tune my saws. What do you do on a fresh rebuild to tune it during the break in?



I might run it slightly richer. But I still don't want it blubbering in the cut. I'm talking 500 RPMs at most. More important would be to not overload the saw and work it too hard in long extended cuts for a couple tanks. Let that piston break in a little first.


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## Schipp (Feb 13, 2011)

*Newb*

"Thanks fer tha Vid! Will someone tell me what "WOT
" is? ok Thankee!" :msp_huh:
Schipp


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## bluesportster02 (Feb 13, 2011)

Schipp said:


> "Thanks fer tha Vid! Will someone tell me what "WOT
> " is? ok Thankee!" :msp_huh:
> Schipp


 
wide open throttle


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## Schipp (Feb 13, 2011)

*wot*

"Thankee, Blue! Yea, I juss Googled it!  Thats exsplains alot!" heh :msp_biggrin:
Schipp


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## bluesportster02 (Feb 13, 2011)

your welcome


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## Schipp (Feb 15, 2011)

*tuning the L & LA ?*



blsnelling said:


> There's more to tuning a chainsaw than just adjusting the high end, but this is a start. It also gives an excellent example of what 4-stroking sounds like.
> 
> In the first cut, the saw continues to 4-stroke, even towards the bottom of the cut. That's a little too rich. It should run clean all the way through the cut once under load.
> 
> ...


 
"This is VERY helpful and interesting!!! I've shown this to several @ work! Thank you! Have u done a video on tuning the L and LA yet? That would be soo helpful. I went thru all 50+ ? pages of u'r posts and couldn't find it if u did.
Please let me know if did. :msp_thumbup:
Ok, Thankee again!!!


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## wyk (Feb 16, 2011)

This video also helps a lot, Brad(Thanks!):

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/7jYUotkZorg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


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## redunshee (Feb 16, 2011)

wyk said:


> This video also helps a lot, Brad(Thanks!):
> 
> <iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/7jYUotkZorg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


 
Couldn't bear to watch the whole video. If he is confused about the Lo and HI screws I'm out. Lo screw is always nearest the intake.


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## wyk (Feb 16, 2011)

redunshee said:


> Couldn't bear to watch the whole video. If he is confused about the Lo and HI screws I'm out. Lo screw is always nearest the intake.


 
If he had them confused, the saw wouldn't behave as it did - and his saws in the rest of his videos would be poorly turned as well. Which, of course, they aren't.


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## eriklane (Aug 13, 2011)

*Proper high adjustment*

So, am I correct in that you want it a little rich (4 stroking) at WOT on the bench, but that it shouldn't 4 stroke at all under load?


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## FATGUY (Aug 13, 2011)

bingo


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## eriklane (Aug 14, 2011)

*Tune up fundamentals.*

Basic stuff. Once you got the rules down, it's cake. Ran it for 3 hrs today, no problems. Now I know what too lean upper end sounds like, and, I did fiddle a little on the lower end, my saw wants to continue to turn, but, I can deal with that for now. No more bogging out low end either...And I hand sharpened it in the field, and it was great...a huge day.


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## mictrik (Aug 31, 2011)

*Good explanation!*

I tuned my saw in this way I also used a Tach. When all was said and done the saw seemed to be perfectly tuned at about 100 rpm over the factory spec of 13500 for a Stihl MS-360 Pro. Here in the North East & I know many of you guys in the South experience very humid conditions in the summer. When tuning optimally in those hot, humid summer conditions you can be quite a bit off on cool dry fall or winter days. This has been my experience. So in the interest of operating the saw or any two cycle motor safely & optimally I always check the RPM at WOT & listen before proceeding to use the saw. All you need is a small screwdriver, trained ears & a cheap mini tach. You can drop the tach if your ears are well trained but I still think it is better with it.


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## eriklane (Aug 31, 2011)

*Tuning*

I have to say that video sure helped. It's simple, but, if you haven't done it, it's 'complicated'. Listen for 4-stroking at high end (rich) or if the saw just seems to run too fast (too lean), and then smoking on the low end or dogging out (too rich) while cutting when the saw gets caught.

Once it's running right, on the low end, then adjust the idle speed. If you adjust the idle speed and then go into L adjust, you can mask problems.


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## roger m (Dec 23, 2011)

awesome video Brad i used that technique today on my 460 after i installed a factory dual port muffler, it worked perfect 2 stroked while loaded and 4 stroked wot unloaded right after cut thank you very much!now i have to clean up all these cookies


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## MacLaren (Dec 23, 2011)

roger m said:


> awesome video Brad i used that technique today on my 460 after i installed a factory dual port muffler, it worked perfect 2 stroked while loaded and 4 stroked wot unloaded right after cut thank you very much!now i have to clean up all these cookies



Good stuff. Me likes it too. Brad has done a many a good vids. Huge assett to AS.


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## blsnelling (Dec 23, 2011)

Glad I could help you


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## chopperfreak2k1 (Dec 23, 2011)

yup Brad, you may take alot of crap sometimes but you are worth your weight around here in my eyes!


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## blsnelling (Dec 23, 2011)

chopperfreak2k1 said:


> yup Brad, you may take alot of crap sometimes but you are worth your weight *in salt*!



There, I fixed it for you


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## chopperfreak2k1 (Dec 23, 2011)

Lol!!


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## hardpan (Dec 27, 2011)

No not gold or salt, platinum. I've been running the silly things for 35 years cutting firewood and such, even used my best profanity on them but that is the best how-to-tune information I have ever gotten. Thank You.


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## roger m (Dec 28, 2011)

x2:msp_thumbsup:


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## Liveliner (Dec 28, 2011)

*Great Job on nailing the 4 stroking sound*

Great job.
Took some of the mystery out of the process. I am a newbie but am now willing to try to make the adjustments.

Gary In cT


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## dbittle (Dec 28, 2011)

*Ht75 Tuning*

I watched the video (thanks much!) and tried it today on my HT75 polesaw. I'm not sure if I ever got it quite right. I finally decided if its rich enough that it doesn't bog when I hit the throttle and it seems to be four stroking a bit, just to leave it alone for now. Does the Zama carburetor have fine enough adjustments to really hone it in, or is it more of a get-it-into-the-general-vicinity proposition?


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## diggers_dad (Dec 28, 2011)

dbittle said:


> I watched the video (thanks much!) and tried it today on my HT75 polesaw. I'm not sure if I ever got it quite right. I finally decided if its rich enough that it doesn't bog when I hit the throttle and it seems to be four stroking a bit, just to leave it alone for now. Does the Zama carburetor have fine enough adjustments to really hone it in, or is it more of a get-it-into-the-general-vicinity proposition?



I'm no expert like Brad and some of the others on here, but the answer is yes - the Zama has just as much fine adjustment as a Walbro or Tillotson or anyone else's carburetor. When you're going to tune a two stroke, be sure the air filter is clean, the muffler screen is not clogged and that you have _*at least*_ 1/2 tank of good, fresh fuel. There are a few other things that can give you a "false tune", but those are the most important ones. When in doubt, tune it a little rich. 

And, as others have already said, Brad takes his share of grief from others for a variety of reasons. As far as I'm concerned the ones who complain about him have issues of their own they need to deal with before bashing him. Brad puts out some great videos and tips filled with solid, easy to understand information. I have benefited many times from his past experiences and hope he stays around for a long while.

Stay safe...
dd


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## arrow13 (Dec 30, 2011)

Outstanding information to tune my saws. Love the video clips. My hearing is not that good but with headphones I can pick up more of the noted sounds that can make a difference between a good tuning and an average tuning. THanks so much. Looking forward to seeing more and also finding more as I search all the threads. I'm starting to think I will be keeping my eyes out for more used chainsaws at garage sales from now on. With the information that everyone is providing it could become addicting. I like to tinker. Arrow13


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## lkelley (Dec 30, 2011)

I am pretty new to tuning chainsaws. My question is why wouldn't you read plugs and piston wash also to assist in tuning. Sound can be interpreted in different ways by different people.


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## Philbert (Jan 9, 2012)

StihlyinEly said:


> If Brad's crank seal/pressure/vac tutorial is anything to go by, I'm sure the more formal tuning vid, when it comes, will be informative and complete.




Can someone post a link to this pressure testing tutorial/thread?

Thanks.

Philbert


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## 67 Mustang (Jan 10, 2012)

Philbert said:


> Can someone post a link to this pressure testing tutorial/thread?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Philbert



http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/112928.htm


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## jimdad07 (Jan 10, 2012)

Not trying to hijack, but if you guys can please check this thread out: http://www.arboristsite.com/off-topic-forum/188558-23.htm#post3392218, this family could use some well wishing.


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## winland (Nov 16, 2012)

I just found this old thread and wanted to 
add my thanks for help me to better understand 4-stroking.


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## grinder1 (Mar 26, 2013)

*i know I'll feel like an idiot...*

what does WOT stand for (crouching with hands protecting head)...


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## mikey517 (Mar 26, 2013)

grinder1 said:


> what does WOT stand for (crouching with hands protecting head)...



Wide Open Throttle??


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## grinder1 (Mar 26, 2013)

*i knew id regret it*

i had a feeling it was something i should have been able to figure out.


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## JakeG (Mar 26, 2013)

grinder1 said:


> i had a feeling it was something i should have been able to figure out.



Every now and then you'll see someone say WFO instead of WOT. Coming from the automotive field, I was not accustomed to slang acronyms. It took me a while to realize the F in WFO was indeed the F-word! WFO=WOT

This is a great thread  Good work!


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## Philbert (Mar 26, 2013)

grinder1 said:


> what does WOT stand for (crouching with hands protecting head)...



Gotta ask sometime!

Philbert

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/64287.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/154770.htm


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## o8f150 (Mar 26, 2013)

not trying to hijack or anything but here is the one i did not to long ago

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/2HLpx5mqvW8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


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## blsnelling (Mar 26, 2013)

o8f150 said:


> not trying to hijack or anything but here is the one i did not to long ago



Sounds lean on the L and rich on the H.


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## grinder1 (Mar 26, 2013)

*its funny...*



Philbert said:


> Gotta ask sometime!
> 
> Philbert
> 
> ...



the wife and i were watching tv the other night and a commercial (i think its an insurance company commercial) came on with a guy running a chainsaw and i turned to my wife and asked her if she thought I was sick because the second i heard the chainsaw, i raised my head, and when i realized my reaction, I had to chuckle...the worst part about it is i think I got a little horny lol!! I made the mistake of telling my wife and I got the most awesome of eyerolls!! Is that wrong?


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## cobey (Mar 26, 2013)

Thanks Brad! great info, seen alot of good tuning info on this site. i used to think 4 stroking was bad :hmm3grin2orange:


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## cobey (Mar 26, 2013)

o8f150 said:


> not trying to hijack or anything but here is the one i did not to long ago
> 
> <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/2HLpx5mqvW8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


 your videos are how i learned what a saw was supposed to do!! thanks Scott


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## blsnelling (Jan 16, 2014)

Need some help learning to tune?


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## dolmarfan (Jan 16, 2014)

Hello!
I have a dolmar 5000 similar to the 5100.
Tuned 3 turns out on the H 12500 rpm.In the wood(fresh oak holds 8500 rpm).Factory settings says 13500 rpm.
I am using stihl hp at 45:1
Its too rich?


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## Stormy (Mar 14, 2014)

lkelley said:


> I am pretty new to tuning chainsaws. My question is why wouldn't you read plugs and piston wash also to assist in tuning. Sound can be interpreted in different ways by different people.



I like to pull my plugs, but just outa general curiosity cuz I'm new, and maybe to be sure I haven't glazed one. Also bought a tach at first b/c I couldn't discern the 4-stroke, which Brad really nailed here. But more time in the wood and I'm comfortable now, and tuning in the wood is the only way to go day-to-day, especially as temps, humidity, elevation, etc., will change your mix. Otherwise, if you're gonna use your plugs to know how you are in fact tuned, a chop is the only reliable method and not easy to read, and even then its not gonna tell you what you'll get from tuning in the wood on any given day, mix batch, etc. thereafter. Conditions change. But if you're gonna read your plugs to adjust your timing, diagnose some prevailing malady, etc., then itsa safe bet yer already tuning by ear, given the knowledge you'll have acquired to do such. It can't help, though, if you take the saw outa normal elevation, from hot to cold, picking up new gas along the way, maybe adding more oil than usual, and can't back the saw out of its new lean mixture.


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## Heilman181 (Mar 14, 2014)

blsnelling said:


> Need some help learning to tune?



Yes. Yes I do. 

Thanks! 

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## STIHL038MAN (Jun 10, 2017)

blsnelling said:


> There's more to tuning a chainsaw than just adjusting the high end, but this is a start. It also gives an excellent example of what 4-stroking sounds like.
> 
> In the first cut, the saw continues to 4-stroke, even towards the bottom of the cut. That's a little too rich. It should run clean all the way through the cut once under load.
> 
> ...





So in the first cut the saw is making that stumbling/mini bog sound(you know what I'm talking about)

When you talk about the saw "cleaning out" that's what you're trying to get rid of?..


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## CR888 (Jun 10, 2017)

STIHL038MAN said:


> So in the first cut the saw is making that stumbling/mini bog sound(you know what I'm talking about)
> 
> When you talk about the saw "cleaning out" that's what you're trying to get rid of?..


Yes


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## GilksTreeFelling (Jun 10, 2017)

So I think I got mine tuned right. I can't tell for sure but I think its 4srroking till it gets in the cut then smooths out when I apply pressure. Might still be a tad rich. But for being 70% deaf think I'm close.
372xpw moded muffler only, 75ft above sea level. 22* Celsius 

What's the consensus of the experts


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## blsnelling (Jun 10, 2017)

nscoyote said:


> So I think I got mine tuned right. I can't tell for sure but I think its 4srroking till it gets in the cut then smooths out when I apply pressure. Might still be a tad rich. But for being 70% deaf think I'm close.
> 372xpw moded muffler only, 75ft above sea level. 22* Celsius
> 
> What's the consensus of the experts



You're real close. Lean it out about 1/8 turn or less.


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## GilksTreeFelling (Jun 10, 2017)

Much appreciated


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## oaky (Dec 31, 2018)

i have a carb with a limiter on my 076s, gets up a little over 9000rpm on bench wot. carbs set at factory settings, low-1 1/4, high-1. in the cut its 7500 to 8500 i think. feels rich but it hasnt ran in years so i'm taking my time.

have you tuned one of these saws blsnelling? i may be able to get a video


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## blsnelling (Dec 31, 2018)

There is a rev limiter in your carb. Tillotson? You need to remove it and put a disc of pop can under it.


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## oaky (Dec 31, 2018)

what difference would the pop can disc make


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## oaky (Dec 31, 2018)

its funny you mention the pop can disc, the thread i was reading about the pop can disc is how I found this thread about your tuning adjustments.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-076-trouble-milling-saw.268359/


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## oaky (Dec 31, 2018)

found an answer.


computeruser said:


> 9100 on the tach for my limited 075, 9600 for my unlimited 076.


i do have a spare carb, maybe ill give it a shot.


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## WhisperingCreek (Mar 29, 2020)

I know this is years late, but Thank You.
Your video was the beginning for me to be able to be able to tune my saws and I have professionally used saws since I was a teenager.
Your videos on muffler mods and timing advance have helped me completely change my saws.
So again, Thanks.


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## Huskybill (Mar 29, 2020)

Do you notice in the change of temps in the colder late fall to the warmer spring weather? The saw gets blubbery. Once my high speed is set I only need to change the low speed setting during the temp changes.


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## lone wolf (Mar 29, 2020)

Y


Huskybill said:


> Do you notice in the change of temps in the colder late fall to the warmer spring weather? The saw gets blubbery. Once my high speed is set I only need to change the low speed setting during the temp changes.


Yes when it gets hot out I have to re tune. Dont forget winter gas boils over in heat also.


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## Huskybill (Mar 29, 2020)

I keep the carb tuned correctly so the trigger responce is crisp. They run so good when the carbs are adjusted correctly.

Funny in mid September when there’s a chill in the air all my saws need readjustment at the same time.


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## blsnelling (Mar 30, 2020)

Huskybill said:


> Do you notice in the change of temps in the colder late fall to the warmer spring weather? The saw gets blubbery. Once my high speed is set I only need to change the low speed setting during the temp changes.


I notice the difference from morning to afternoon.


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## Huskybill (Mar 30, 2020)

Anyone who sees this change in temps really knows there saws. I’m sure with some it goes unnoticed. I like my saws well tuned.


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