# Homelite super 2



## deadeye308 (Jan 3, 2011)

I brought an old homelite super 2 up from dads house to try to learn how to start tinkering with saws. The saw has sat and has not been ran much for the last 5-7 years. To my surprise it started up pretty easy, but needs some carb work i'm assuming. It'll run but you have to keep messing with the choke. I can some what work my around in a four stroke engine, but have never ever messed with 2 stroke. I would like to try and clean it up alittle bit and get it running alittle better. Is this a good first saw to try?( doesn't really matter if i mess it up). I tried searchin for old post on them, but couldn't find any? Does anyone know of any old post i could look at, or can someone kinda help me though this? I was talking with another guy locally to see if he could help me out, but he wasn't too motivated to help me, so maybe you guys can. He said the reeds were prolly shot? Could i muff mod it? i wanna try on an old saw before i attemp on one of my stihls( the guy didn't want to help me with the muffler mods on my stihls either) so i can get the hang of adjustin the carb. Would the choke have the same high low settings on it a shihl would? Thank you for all of your help in advance!


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## brages (Jan 3, 2011)

I have just recently been working on a Super 2 that I got for free from a forum member here. The Super 2 is OK to work on... you have to take the engine out to do anything to it, but it's pretty easy to take the engine out, just take off the starter and remove four screws holding the engine in... you'll get really quick at it by about the fourth time or so.

A local craigslist ad had three Super 2 parts saws for $20. This is by far the cheapest way to get parts for these, and gives you an idea of what these saws are worth: not much.

The Super 2 is pretty junky, IMO. I think the pressurized-tank impulse-driven oiler design is way lame. I finally got mine working. Bottom-end bearings are also super-cheesy.

You probably need to clean out the carb and maybe replace gas and oil lines to get it to run. There is a one-way "duckbill" valve to vent the gas tank and another on the impulse line to the oil (!) tank. These are almost certainly rotten and you'll need to replace them both.

By the way, two of my Super 2's have Tillotson carbs that are a bit funky and don't have a "H" screw adjustment. So very mod-unfriendly. The other is a Walbro and I believe it does have an H adjust, but I broke the metering spring, so I'm running with a Tilly.

The "mechanic" who guessed the reed (or reeds, lol) was shot is just that... guessing.

IMO, muffler mod on one of these is probably a dead end; they are already quite loud and have tiny mufflers. You may see gains by porting, etc, but as I said they are really kind of junky saws.


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## djones (Jan 3, 2011)

*super super 2*

I have a super 2 that was thrown away into a dumpster at our town garage and I pulled it out for the bar and chain but after cleaning it up it is now always on the tractor when I go in the woods. I'm now on the 2nd chain for it. It has cut up a lot of pallet wood, cut through plenty of nails (ouch) and has limbed many trees. Dual trigger is a fine feature on this saw. The whole trick to it is getting the points set right for a fine spark and then adjusting the carb. Starts on choke after 2 -3 pulls then runs the rest of the day in brush piles. Being small and light doesen't mean that it can't do the job for which it was designed. You're right about the mods being a waste of time. Just have to remember 16 to 1 on the mix. It ain't no EPA special, that's for sure.


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## MARK1961 (Jan 11, 2011)

*homelite super 2 starting directions*

what is the procedure to starting a homelike super 2
how many times do you hit the primer bulb?
and doo you hold the trigger ?


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 12, 2011)

I love the little red Homies.

I just yesterday tore down a Super 2. It had the crankcase pressure driven oil pump. The XL I got at the same time has the pressureized oil tank (i.e. no pump). 

The first saw I ever owned was a garage sale XL2. I learned how to plumb the oiler on it as all the lines were just so much crushed macaroni.

The most desireable are the double trigger models as they are more flexable to use.

The XL and XL2 are 26cc engines. The Super 2 is 30cc. If they were a fishing rod they would be an ultralight.

The main bearings are Torrington BH-87 and the oil seals are CR 4912 available at any industrial supply house.


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## deadeye308 (Jan 12, 2011)

Thanks for the replies, sorry I never got back sooner. I was going to try to tear it apart the other weekend, and well as usual i can't seem to find time to work on stuff like that. I still wanna do it but gonna have wait till things slow down alittle more. 

Mark- Mine doesn't have a primer bulb, just slide the choke up hold the trigger( mine only has one) in and start pullin. Then it's a guessing game at the moment how to set the choke to keep it runnin. Hopefully i'll get the figured out sometime LOL.


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## brages (Jan 12, 2011)

67L36Driver said:


> I just yesterday tore down a Super 2. It had the crankcase pressure driven oil pump. The XL I got at the same time has the pressureized oil tank (i.e. no pump).


 
Just to be clear, the Super 2 is also designed to pressurize the oil tank in order to help lift the oil to the pump (at least the ones I've seen). So you have the usual complications with a pressurized oil tank -- the duckbill must be present and functioning or the crankcase will suck air, and the lines must seal tightly in the tank to allow it to build pressure. And, of course, if you switch the lines you end up with a non-oiling smoke monster.


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 12, 2011)

brages said:


> Just to be clear, the Super 2 is also designed to pressurize the oil tank in order to help lift the oil to the pump (at least the ones I've seen). So you have the usual complications with a pressurized oil tank -- *the duckbill must be present and functioning or the crankcase will suck air, and the lines must seal tightly in the tank to allow it to build pressure*. And, of course, if you switch the lines you end up with a non-oiling smoke monster.



And: A tight fitting/sealing oil cap.

First time I had XL2 running I left out the oil tank duckbill. Holy cow!

The XL I got reciently has _only_ the pressurized oil tank. There is no evidence (no finish machining) it ever had a pump.  The housing is also plastic.

Anyone have suggestion on easily available fuel and oil caps? I have one with a Weedeater fuel cap but I had to add an 'O'-ring.


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## brages (Jan 12, 2011)

67L36Driver said:


> Anyone have suggestion on easily available fuel and oil caps? I have one with a Weedeater fuel cap but I had to add an 'O'-ring.


 
NOS in blister pack:

HOMELITE XL, XL2, SUPER 2 , 190 GAS AND OIL CAP - eBay (item 280614828590 end time Jan-17-11 16:27:15 PST)

Of course, it won't be collectible if you open the package...


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 12, 2011)

brages said:


> NOS in blister pack:
> 
> HOMELITE XL, XL2, SUPER 2 , 190 GAS AND OIL CAP - eBay (item 280614828590 end time Jan-17-11 16:27:15 PST)
> 
> Of course, it won't be collectible if you open the package...



Nope, not going Evilbay route. Looking for common garden variety source. As many caps on jugs of comsumer liquids that are out there, something is likely to work.


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## Schaboz (May 24, 2014)

67L36Driver said:


> And: A tight fitting/sealing oil cap.
> 
> First time I had XL2 running I left out the oil tank duckbill. Holy cow!
> 
> ...


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## 67L36Driver (May 24, 2014)

Dredged one up from the jurassic period did you.

Those 'milk bottle' lids are getting hard to find new or even serviceable used. Haunt evilbay in 'chainsaw parts & accessories'.

The old Weedeater brand caps work well.


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## Schaboz (May 25, 2014)

Homelite tells me based on the serial number it was made in 1970 all metal case and it runs and cuts I had to use an S53 chain for the 14" bar and it works fine including the oiler for now.


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## thombat4 (Oct 6, 2014)

Hmmmm...so I've been scouring the web for an owner's manual for an XL, anyone know of any sources? I know it's a stretch but ya never know. Thanks


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## a. palmer jr. (Oct 6, 2014)

I've owned a bunch of the small Homelites, usually someone else wants them more than I do so I sell them. I have a Super 2 and an XL right now and I plan on keeping the Super 2. They are not the best saws for a first timer to rebuild because of having to remove the engine for lots of little jobs like the carburetor, fuel and oil lines and probably other things as well. My choice for a beginner would be a Poulan 25 micro saw, they are very easy to work on in my opinion and don't have to be taken all apart again if you forget something. Every saw has their little quirks so it's your choice.


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## a. palmer jr. (Oct 6, 2014)

67L36Driver said:


> Dredged one up from the jurassic period did you.
> 
> Those 'milk bottle' lids are getting hard to find new or even serviceable used. Haunt evilbay in 'chainsaw parts & accessories'.
> 
> The old Weedeater brand caps work well.


 I got the bright idea to try the gas cap off a Homelite 330. They look alike but the 330 cap was just a tad bigger..


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