# stump grinder, de-barker



## mt.stalker (Apr 4, 2007)

Anyone in here ever use the small unit that bolts to the chainsaw bar ?
It has small planer blades, saw it on ebay for $100.00. Do they work well ?


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Apr 4, 2007)

I've never used one myself but another member that hasn't posted in a while does. He claimed that they worked so well to the point he actually had to dull new blades a bit before using them as they cut too fast. Again, no personal experience, just hear-say.


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## redprospector (Apr 4, 2007)

I have a friend who uses one for peeling poles, and vigas, he loves it.
But I don't have any personal experience either.

Andy


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Apr 4, 2007)

I almost wish you hadn't posted this. The only reason I didn't buy the last time I looked at them was their $200+ price tag (log wizard). $100 for the Hudson is much better...


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## mt.stalker (Apr 5, 2007)

Cool, Thanks for the input butcher and prospector, I didn't want to drop a 
C note on some peice of s**t that doesn't work . This'll give my husky
136 something to do. The seller said it works better on smaller saws.


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## Husky137 (Apr 5, 2007)

They look scary to me. I wonder what kind of kick back potential lies there.


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## MikeInParadise (Apr 5, 2007)

*Interesting*

I would be interested in one of these for small stumps etc.

I was considering the log wizard but this is priced better.

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/575?mv_session_id=zRAHtzRD&product_sku=49600

I just asked them if they will Ship USPS as it is too expensive to ship with brokerage fees versus UPS to Canada.


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## Wismer (Apr 5, 2007)

Husky137 said:


> They look scary to me. I wonder what kind of kick back potential lies there.



Well common sense says none. The blades should spin so that it would dig in instead of kick?


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## Husky137 (Apr 5, 2007)

Wismer said:


> Well common sense says none. The blades should spin so that it would dig in instead of kick?



A chainsaw chain spins in the same fashion and kick back is a reality.


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## redprospector (Apr 6, 2007)

I would think that since you're using the bottom of a rotating head, and the top of it is covered it would not kick back. The top of the bar tip is where kick back is usually produced. Isn't it?

Andy


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## Husky137 (Apr 6, 2007)

I the classic chainsaw scenario, yes. But I was thinking of kickback generated along the lines of being caused by hitting a knot or foriegn matter. Maybe I'm all wet. In any event I'll stick to my line debarker on the woodmizer.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Apr 6, 2007)

Valid point, husky. I would think the same degree of danger exists with this tool as with any power tool. In my opinion, the responsibility of avoiding injury rests on the operator. A little bit of smarts and care goes a long way.


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## Wismer (Apr 6, 2007)

redprospector said:


> I would think that since you're using the bottom of a rotating head, and the top of it is covered it would not kick back. The top of the bar tip is where kick back is usually produced. Isn't it?
> 
> Andy



Yes this is what i meant if you have seen a picture of one only the bottom half of the rotary head is exposed. You would have to be trying to get it to kick back i would think


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## redprospector (Apr 6, 2007)

Well like I said, I have no personal experiance with one, but I have seen my friend take off pig ears (knots) with one and no problems. Aggiewoodbutcher is right about the operator being responsible for accidents. A machine of any kind is like a jellous woman; Take your mind off of her for a seccond, and she will get your attention!
My friend also uses a dremel to take the teeth off the saw chain that runs his little debarker, just another thought for safety.

Andy


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## poleframer (Apr 7, 2007)

Hi all, haven't been sawin much lately, other work. A saw wizard works best on a 50cc or so saw due to the way you have to hold it up over the work, ya don't need any more power, a smaller saw would work too. No problems with kickback, but a cutterless chain would be the ticket for safety. I've been meaning to get one. Chaps are a must- this thing really throws the chips.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Apr 7, 2007)

Hey, bud. Been wonderin' 'bout 'ya. 

Built any new gizmos lately?


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## MikeInParadise (Apr 9, 2007)

redprospector said:


> I would think that since you're using the bottom of a rotating head, and the top of it is covered it would not kick back. The top of the bar tip is where kick back is usually produced. Isn't it?
> 
> Andy



Like to there web site with a paragraph on avoiding kickback

http://www.logwizard.com/safety.php3



> Also, remember that to obtain the maximum performance from your Log Wizard, please ensure that your logs are securely mounted to the operating surface. We recommend working with all logs at ground level. To aviod the possibility of kick back, never approach your work straight in.


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## redprospector (Apr 9, 2007)

MikeInParadise said:


> Like to there web site with a paragraph on avoiding kickback
> 
> http://www.logwizard.com/safety.php3



I stand corrected. 

Andy


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## MikeInParadise (Apr 10, 2007)

MikeInParadise said:


> I would be interested in one of these for small stumps etc.
> 
> I was considering the log wizard but this is priced better.
> 
> ...



They will ship via the US postal service which lets me avoid the outrageous UPS brokerage fees so I am getting one of these and will post how it works in a couple of weeks when I get it.

Now my question is which saw to put it on? Hmmm...I wonder if the Ranger has enough omphh for that...

I have an extra 16" bars( .325 bar for 260 and a .375 bar for the MS361) and I would just keep it attached to one of these. I am leaning towards using the 260 except for the fact that I use it far more than the 361 and don't see that changing.


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## MikeInParadise (Apr 23, 2007)

Gee I had it in my hands today for about 10 seconds. But then the Delivery driver asked for $57 in brokerage fees! 

WTF...Turns out they shipped it via UPS instead of the post office as requested so I gave it back to the driver. It is a bit annoying as this was agreed upon, confirmed before I paid and I put in the remarks on Payment to send via USPS.

I phoned their 1-800 number and they apologized and were very good about correcting this and are shipping another one out today via USPS. 

The wait continues!


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## poleframer (May 3, 2007)

MikeInParadise said:


> I have an extra 16" bars( .325 bar for 260 and a .375 bar for the MS361) and I would just keep it attached to one of these. I am leaning towards using the 260 except for the fact that I use it far more than the 361 and don't see that changing.



The drive sprocket on it is a regular saw sprocket, so since your saws have the same bar mount (I think) it would be easy to have it on a old bar and put on either(with a sprocket change) when you use it. You'll need to have a chain made for it anyway. I think you will prefer to run it with the 260. I run mine with a 16" on a dedicated saw, but then I have 8 saws. With the wizard on it that sets the tip at about 20" out. 
Tho I prefer stihls, I found the huskys air-injection system much better at keeping the filter clean (+ it was given to me). With the 260, you'll need to clean the filter about every 1/2 tank. 
Russell


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## MikeInParadise (May 7, 2007)

Ok it arrived today and there was no charge on picking it up at all. Which kind of surprised me as there is usually a $5.00 customs charge at the Canadian Post office. 

Not that I am complaining as $0 is just so much cheaper than $57 charged by UPS.

Here is what is in the package...Interesting note: the nuts and bolts were just thrown in the box, not in a parts bag so I did not find one of the lock washers and had to dig through the wadded up paper to find what I found. 







Here is a close up.






You would think that the US Postal Service would not allow shipping of mice in a package! :biggrinbounce2: 






I need to pick up an 18 inch chain in order to put it on one of my sixteen inch bars...I think I am going to go .325 on the MS260....


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## woodshop (May 7, 2007)

I'd like to see one of these in action. Any chance that camera has a video mode? You can use photobucket.com to drop a small video just like a pic. The more I look at these the more I think I could use one milling for certain dirty logs.


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## MikeInParadise (May 8, 2007)

No video on my camera as it is 6 years old. 

However the log wizard has a video of this on baileys site. 

http://www.baileys-online.com/video/LogWizardDemo.wmv

Installation video

http://www.baileys-online.com/video/LogWizardInstallation.wmv


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## MikeInParadise (May 8, 2007)

*More Videos*

Same usages from Utah Forestry.

http://extension.usu.edu/forestry/Business/Equip_LogWizard.htm

Low Quality Video

http://extension.usu.edu/forestry/Business/Assets/QuickTime/LogWizard56.wmv

Better Quality Video

http://extension.usu.edu/forestry/Business/Assets/QuickTime/LogWizard256.wmv

And another Video from Hud-Son

http://logdebarker.com/images/Log_Wizard.WMV


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## MikeInParadise (May 8, 2007)

Minor glitch in the install.

The sprocket in the debarker does not line up properly with my Stihl 16" .325 .050 bar (part # 3003-003-7113)











So I put in a couple of fender washters between the unit and the bar so that it will align properly.






Here is the aligned pictures











I sent off an Email with the pictures to Hud-Son to see what they say!

Now to pick-up a chain, wait for the rain to stop, so I can put the wood-hauler back together(in pieces in the driveway) and then I can go out to the woodlot and try it out...


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## woodshop (May 8, 2007)

Thanks mike... I am going to put this on my list of "I want one of them" tools. As said, I can think of many times milling when I could have used one to clean up a dirty part of a log or just get the bark off so my chains and bandsaw blades last longer. I suppose I could make the case that eventually it will pay for itself. I'd dedicate a saw for it though... if I had to change out a saw every time I wanted to use it it wouldn't get used much. I'm lazy that way.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (May 8, 2007)

woodshop said:


> I'd dedicate a saw for it though....




Doesn't look like you'll have much trouble with that....




woodshop's signature said:


> __________________
> one can never have too many jigs... or chainsaws. Husky 395XP, 365, Stihl MS460, MS361, 036, 034AV Super, Echo CS3450, Mac Cat18


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## woodshop (May 9, 2007)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Doesn't look like you'll have much trouble with that....



Yeah well... but... except for that old Mac Cat, which might not have enough power for the thing... I just don't seem right to relegate any of those other saws to JUST that tool. Almost kinda seems like a waste of a good chainsaw. Like buying a Corvette and only using it to drive out to the end of the driveway to get the mail. As silly as it sounds, If and when I get one of these things, I'll probably get a used fixer-upper saw in the 60cc range to mate to it. 

Am I spoiled or what!


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## poleframer (May 11, 2007)

Just mount it to an old worn out bar, you don't cut much, if any when its on. Doesn't take long to change a bar out. If you find you use it a lot, then get a saw for it. I use it a lot in working with poles and logs. 
Woodshop, as much as you do (log to finish), you might find this a real interesting "roughing out" tool as well as a de-barker. Imagine a heavy-duty planer, unencumbered with guides. Great for hogging out unwanted material fast. 
Russell


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## woodshop (May 11, 2007)

poleframer said:


> Just mount it to an old worn out bar, you don't cut much, if any when its on. Doesn't take long to change a bar out. If you find you use it a lot, then get a saw for it. I use it a lot in working with poles and logs.
> Woodshop, as much as you do (log to finish), you might find this a real interesting "roughing out" tool as well as a de-barker. Imagine a heavy-duty planer, unencumbered with guides. Great for hogging out unwanted material fast.
> Russell



Thanks Russel, I agree, this thing would come in real handy in the woods for the particular way I mill and procure wood. Worn bars I have plenty of. However I'll want to grab it and use it and keep going. I know it doesn't take long to change out a bar/chain, but it probably will take longer to do that then the 60 seconds I'll run it down the side of a log. I know me pretty well... if I have to futz with a tool setting it up longer than it takes to use it, I will not use it as much. I'm just lazy that way. So still going to dedicate a saw for it.


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## poleframer (May 12, 2007)

After much use, even tho I prefer the handles of the 026, I'd suggest the husky 51 or one like it. The air filtration system is important. This thing throws a lot more sawdust, and bark chunks at you and the saw than you might guess.
I even added a shroud to cover the starter screen to keep chunks from sticking to it.


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## MikeInParadise (May 17, 2007)

I finally got to try it out today. I put it on the MS260. 

It throws the balance off on the saw big time and I found some new muscles in my arms that obviously don't get used cutting wood. I would not want to put it on any bigger(Heavier that is) saw. I would have trouble using it for more than a hour or two. 

It takes a bit of getting used to to get it to not dig in. I found you need to push up the log with it. And those that suggested that you get dirty are right. It throws all the chips directly on your legs.

It stumbles on the knots and the cross grain. I tried it on some smaller stumps and it is not great on those with the cross grain. Doing knots takes a really fine touch.

No problem at all on the filtration on the MS260. I found that it is throwing off slices about the size of a silver dollar and hardly any fine particles at all. The bark type might make a difference.


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## redprospector (May 17, 2007)

Looking good.
Now that you've got a couple of poles under your belt, did you find a big potential for kick back? I've been seriously thinking about getting one of these, but if it's continiously "bucking & jumping" I don't think I'd be as interested.

Andy


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## woodshop (May 17, 2007)

You guys have convinced me that I NEED this when I go milling. I will have to buy one, and a saw to go with it.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (May 17, 2007)

woodshop said:


> You guys have convinced me that I NEED this when I go milling. I will have to buy one, and a saw to go with it.



Yup. Me too.


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## MikeInParadise (May 18, 2007)

redprospector said:


> Looking good.
> Now that you've got a couple of poles under your belt, did you find a big potential for kick back? I've been seriously thinking about getting one of these, but if it's continiously "bucking & jumping" I don't think I'd be as interested.
> 
> Andy



I think that if you had the angle wrong that it would definitely kick back.

I didn't really find it wanting to kick back if you push it forward using the bottom of the blade. If you try and pull it back it hops all over the place. 

The knots really bounce it around if you don't use a light touch.

I think it need a bit of time using it to become proficient with it.


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## VT-Woodchuck (May 18, 2007)

You inspired me Mike. Got mine today. Now to get it mounted this weekend.
Thanks for the topic.


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## poleframer (May 18, 2007)

Well, OK then. Ya see what I mean about not needing anything bigger than a 50cc saw, and it wouldnt be ANY fun wearing shorts! Ya gotta kindof hold it up to control how much it goes into the wood, and if you skin bark with it, it's kind of like a floor sander- gotta keep moving or it'll gouge in.
I can make a pole look hand peeled with much less effort than a spud or drawknife.
Once you get the hang of it, it's like other tools- let it do the work.
Cutting end grain really dosnt work well, grabs and jumps too much. I usually cut branches off pretty close and glaze lightly with the LW, you can get a nice finish that way. 
I've had mine 10 yrs now (?,at least 8) ,no problems,no parts,well worth the $200 or so.


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