# Husqvarna Chainsaws



## briantutt

I have enjoyed the Pioneer, Poulan, McCulloch and Jonsereds dedicated threads. So I thought "why not a Husky thread". My 362XP is very dependable and so is my father's 357XP. So let's see your Husky pics, your thoughts, issues etc! (man this is fun)...


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## parrisw

I'am a true husky guy, but I do have others!! See sig


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## JT78

Well here ya go I only have two huskies here is a pic of my 395


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## MR4WD

Husky 359/20, 3/8 full comp. 
372/28 full skip. 
385/36 full skip and 8 pin rim. 
3120/50 full skip 8 pin rim. All stihl chain.


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## Evan

my 359 going through the paces. i cant leave anything alone


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## Scandy14

Husqvarna 246


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## catman963

O I'll jump in.... I like my Huskies just fine! 

My saws are on the right side....


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## woodshed

*I likey saw #### threads...*












Scott


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## gr8scott72

woodshed said:


> Scott



I have a similar 2-saw plan but just a little bigger on top. (346xp & 394xp)
















Here's a little video of the 394 cutting some ~28" water oak:
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Had a little husky sitting on the end of a stump grinder but sold it a few months ago:


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## briantutt

*357XP Needles*

Does anyone know the best way to take the plastic limiter things off the high and low speed needles so I can rebuild the carb? I don't want to break them. I posted this in a seperate thread but this one is more active...


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## Motodeficient

woodshed said:


> Scott



Thats a really nice looking 2-saw plan


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## Cedarkerf

Im a recovering Stihlhead. Got some good run time on Huskys now a Treeslinger 372 is my wish list saw.


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## Grapple Man

briantutt said:


> Does anyone know the best way to take the plastic limiter things off the high and low speed needles so I can rebuild the carb? I don't want to break them. I posted this in a seperate thread but this one is more active...




Dremel or a small razor blade setup. Either works well.


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## briantutt

Grapple Man said:


> Dremel or a small razor blade setup. Either works well.



You don't reuse them?


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## Farley9n

*Some not so new.....*

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98922&stc=1&d=1242754340
Some one had to step up and show a few older ones...............Bob


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## parrisw

briantutt said:


> Does anyone know the best way to take the plastic limiter things off the high and low speed needles so I can rebuild the carb? I don't want to break them. I posted this in a seperate thread but this one is more active...



If you want to save them, thread a screw in the end of them, while you screw them it the screw pushes on the needle and pulls the limiter off. Works good.


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## BuddhaKat

Playing with the 576 XP.


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## catman963

Farley9n said:


> Some one had to step up and show a few older ones...............Bob




Wow! Now, just wondering - I guess you like..... Husqvarnas maybe!?? 

Great picture man - rep sent!


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## Evan

briantutt

i posted the pick of my 359 with the limiters removed for you. i dont see any reason to have the limiters on there. specialy if you mod the muffler or do any kinda of porting later on down the road

Evan


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## briantutt

I see that now... sorry for not noticing...why are they even there?


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## Evan

beats me why theyre there. 

after porting my saw i needed more fuel so they came off completly, you can clip the tabs with finger naill clipers to gain alittle. but they still end up limiting out on eachother as the knub comes around and hits the L


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## briantutt

How old are Huskys? Seems like they all look "newer"...


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## woodyman

Have two,Snellerized 359 and muffler modded rancher 44.I sold the husky 266SE and the 480CD.


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## roosterracer

*How old are Huskys? Seems like they all look "newer"...*

According to my 2009 Husqvarna catalog they have been making chainsaws for 50 years. Here is my favorite Husky, my only other one is a lttle old 35.


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## valekbrothers

Here is our line-up..........







you'll have to ignore that little one on top.


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## miller1

This is my firewood saw unless i get some big stuff, then i get my J-Red 2186.
I am very pleased with what my 359 will do, it is muff modded but i would like to get it ported when i get some extra money or i will try it myself, just dont want to ruin it. I think it would be a real fun saw ported.


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## Gregford

*I like mine just fine - even if they're not new.*

My 280 and 380S are both awesome saws with huge bearings and although heavier than a more modern saw of the same capacity, they'll go forever. The compression on both is excellent, they're easy to work on and very reliable.

One day I might modify one of them for more power - has anyone modified one of these saws?

Gregford


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## fishercat

*99% of the tree guys around here run Huskies.*

except for top handle climbing saws.Stihl does make the best there.after that it's Orange all the way.


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## briantutt

if they have been making saws for 50 years why are they all plastic! Does anyone have a pic of an old one?


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## bigbadbob

I have two 50's one is a special and its got its own box. Nice saws
I put a ring in one removed its base gasket and modded the muff, little sucker perked rite up!!!!
No pics as they are at my cabin. opcorn:


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## MCW

valekbrothers said:


> Here is our line-up..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you'll have to ignore that little one on top.



That 3120 looks, um, funny with a bar that small  Nice line up though.


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## maccall

briantutt said:


> if they have been making saws for 50 years why are they all plastic! Does anyone have a pic of an old one?




Sure do. Taken at the Husqvarna museum in Huskvarna, Sweden:












I'm not an expert on these oldies, so I can't even tell you what models they are, but I'm sure somebody else will take care of that.

There was a thread with a lot of Husqvarna information, and a few pics if I recall correctly, last winter. Check out posts #162, #215, #216, #219, #220, #221, #222, and #223 for the pics, and then post #244 for the story, or the whole thread.

Not all of this is chainsaw related though, chainsaws are a relatively late expansion branch for Husqvarna, the original being pipes for guns and rifles.


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## valekbrothers

MCW said:


> That 3120 looks, um, funny with a bar that small  Nice line up though.



yea........... but its fun to run sometimes.
Makes for some quick noodling when you don't want to wrestle the big rounds to the splitter.........


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## MCW

valekbrothers said:


> yea........... but its fun to run sometimes.
> Makes for some quick noodling when you don't want to wrestle the big rounds to the splitter.........



I've got some wood to cut up today and I've already got a 3/8" sprocket on my 3120. Now that you started it I'm gonna stick a 20" bar off my 7900 on mine too for a bit of fun 
Is yours still 3/8" or have you swapped the nose to .404"?


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## Freehand

Yup,love mine-my smallest and most favorite saw............

268 non-XP-I've had it for 18 years now,bought it brand new.


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## weimedog




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## willsaw4beer

freehandslabber said:


> Yup,love mine-my smallest and most favorite saw............
> 
> 268 non-XP-I've had it for 18 years now,bought it band new.



The non xp 268's are underrated. I have one and it rips. As good of firewood saw as any for all practical purposes.

That being said, I would put a 272xp topend on it in a heartbeat.


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## briantutt

*time for help*

My fathers 357XP was running fine (idles great, winds up great) but as soon as you start to cut...nothin, chain stops. I suspected crap in the carb so I ripped it apart. Sure enough a fiber (looks like clear fiber from the fuel pump diaphragm) stuck right in the final passage for high speed fuel flow into the carb.

Anyway, got a kit and put it all back together. Now it doesn't do anything! When I took the plug out it was dry but does spark. I poured a little fuel in the plug hole and it fired up for a couple seconds and died.

Needles are both 1 1/4 turn out...



I have only rebuilt 3 other carbs and they all worked so I fell like I flat out just did some obvious (to you guys) newbie mistake.


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## valekbrothers

MCW said:


> I've got some wood to cut up today and I've already got a 3/8" sprocket on my 3120. Now that you started it I'm gonna stick a 20" bar off my 7900 on mine too for a bit of fun
> Is yours still 3/8" or have you swapped the nose to .404"?



Still running 3/8 on it. We have 3/8 on everything except the 41 still has .325.
Its nice to not worry about what chain goes on what bar..........


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## Modifiedmark

*Yeah I like em too*

My "modern" saws are Husky's. get-er-done saws





The 261 is fully converted to 262XP


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## Freehand

willsaw4beer said:


> The non xp 268's are underrated. I have one and it rips. As good of firewood saw as any for all practical purposes.
> 
> That being said, I would put a 272xp topend on it in a heartbeat.



I hear ya,always has done everything I've asked of it:agree2:

There is something about this model stock that is extremely long lived-I've worked the snot out of mine,did full time felling with it for it's first four years.

Just love that saw


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## flatpikr

*HuskyVent*


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## Ductape

*Not the best saw pic........*

But heres what I had handy.


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## MCW

valekbrothers said:


> Still running 3/8 on it. We have 3/8 on everything except the 41 still has .325.
> Its nice to not worry about what chain goes on what bar..........



I know what you mean. I never though I'd see the day where I can't work out what chain fits what saw and bar. Some are obvious (like the .404" for the 60"!) but I've found that I'm more often than not having to hold chains up against bars to make sure.
I already stuffed a 3/8" chain on my 5100-S by forgetting to take the .325" sprocket off after doing a 3/8" - .325" comparo. Made mince meat of the drive links in a very short time as I was too stupid to realise why it sounded funny and was binding up.


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## valekbrothers

Modifiedmark said:


> My "modern" saws are Husky's. get-er-done saws



Mark,

How do you like your 575? I was this close  to buying a used one from our local dealer, then found the 394XPG for $50 more....... I love the 394, but sometimes still wish I had something between the 261 and 394.
I'm sure CAD will kick back in soon and I'll fill the gap some.....:hmm3grin2orange:


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## woodyman

miller1 said:


> This is my firewood saw unless i get some big stuff, then i get my J-Red 2186.
> I am very pleased with what my 359 will do, it is muff modded but i would like to get it ported when i get some extra money or i will try it myself, just dont want to ruin it. I think it would be a real fun saw ported.



The Husqvarna 359 is a very good firewood saw,I muffler modded mine and it cut the same as my brothers MS361.Now my 359 is a beast after sending it to MR. Snelling for the woods port job.I was going to port my 359 myself but wanted the max power a PRO builder like Brad would get out of it and I didn't want to ruin it.


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## Modifiedmark

valekbrothers said:


> Mark,
> 
> How do you like your 575? I was this close  to buying a used one from our local dealer, then found the 394XPG for $50 more....... I love the 394, but sometimes still wish I had something between the 261 and 394.
> I'm sure CAD will kick back in soon and I'll fill the gap some.....:hmm3grin2orange:




It's a 05 model that I bought new, and it's been great. They got a bad name around here from a few of the early ones, but I believe they also may not have gotten a fair shake around here either. 

The saw has alot of power, runs super smooth and has been as reliable as can be. It may have a little more heft to it, but it's power is worth it.


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## BuddhaKat

valekbrothers said:


> Mark,
> 
> How do you like your 575? I was this close  to buying a used one from our local dealer, then found the 394XPG for $50 more....... I love the 394, but sometimes still wish I had something between the 261 and 394.
> I'm sure CAD will kick back in soon and I'll fill the gap some.....:hmm3grin2orange:


Get a 576XP. So far, no bad reviews about it from anyone here that's run one. Nothing but praise actually.


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## pastryguyhawaii

This is my Sling'r 372xpw. I've only had a chance to run a few tanks through it but have a couple wood cutting trips planned next weekend. Very nice saw. I was using it to do some carving on a chair I'm doing last week. It's just has a good feel to it.


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## MCW

pastryguyhawaii said:


>



A Stihl bar on a Husky? Thats like sleeping with your cousin. Does the job (or so I've heard) but you know its just plain wrong


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## BuddhaKat

MCW said:


> A Stihl bar on a Husky? Thats like sleeping with your cousin. Does the job (or so I've heard) but you know its just plain wrong


I'm surprised the powerhead doesn't spontaneously burst into flames. :jawdrop:

What's wrong with sleeping with your cousin?


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## pastryguyhawaii

MCW said:


> A Stihl bar on a Husky? Thats like sleeping with your cousin. Does the job (or so I've heard) but you know its just plain wrong



LOL. I know, it just doesn't look right. I have two 28" bars for my 660 so I use one for this.


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## bonker81

Farley9n said:


> http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98922&stc=1&d=1242754340
> Some one had to step up and show a few older ones...............Bob



brings a tear to the eye...beautiful


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## FarmTough

Here is my 372xpw and 359 on a fresh pile of oak.


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## bonker81

valekbrothers said:


> Here is our line-up..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you'll have to ignore that little one on top.



They were out of small bars for your 3120? I bet that rips.


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## SawTroll

MCW said:


> A Stihl bar on a Husky? Thats like sleeping with your cousin. Does the job (or so I've heard) but you know its just plain wrong



Sort of best of both worlds, but you need an adapter, and may need to lenghten the slot in the bar......


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## briantutt

*Dad's 357XP*

Got dad's 357XP back in his line up thanks to all those here at AS. Man that thing screams...puts my 36x XP to shame...


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## SawTroll

bonker81 said:


> They were out of small bars for your 3120? I bet that rips.



A 13" .325 one, and really large dawgs would make an even better fit!


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## yo2001

Well, prolly the most hated Husky in the history of the chainsaw but I just couldn't take a pass on it. First Husky for me, the saw sounds so different from the Stihls. Must be the air injection thing. So far, it doesn't cut bad at all. Little heavy and little cold hearted. Once warmed, it ran pretty good. Getting some freshen up soon. 





















I had to put little Stihl on it. Stihl nut and RSC chain


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## gr8scott72

yo2001 said:


> Stihl nut



There's plenty of those on this forum. lol


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## SawTroll

yo2001 said:


> Well, prolly the most hated Husky in the history of the chainsaw but I just couldn't take a pass on it. First Husky for me, the saw sounds so different from the Stihls. Must be the air injection thing. So far, it doesn't cut bad at all. Little heavy and little cold hearted. Once warmed, it ran pretty good. Getting some freshen up soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I had to put little Stihl on it. Stihl nut and RSC chain


You did an impressive job at getting that saw beaten up - has it been rolling around in the back of a pick-up for some time?


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## yo2001

SawTroll said:


> You did an impressive job at getting that saw beaten up - has it been rolling around in the back of a pick-up for some time?



I was thinking the same thing. Must have been on the back of the truck alot. The saw is only 4 years old. It was sitting in the garage for last year or so...


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## SawTroll

yo2001 said:


> I was thinking the same thing. Must have been on the back of the truck alot. The saw is only 4 years old. It was sitting in the garage for last year or so...




I guess you bought it used then?


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## yo2001

SawTroll said:


> I guess you bought it used then?



10-4. I can't afford a new one. haha


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## pastryguyhawaii

SawTroll said:


> Sort of best of both worlds, but you need an adapter, and may need to lenghten the slot in the bar......



That I had to do. I really wanted a Sugihara bar but the shipping to Hawaii on them was ridiculous. The Stihl ES is an excellent bar.


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## pastryguyhawaii

pastryguyhawaii said:


> This is my Sling'r 372xpw. I've only had a chance to run a few tanks through it but have a couple wood cutting trips planned next weekend. Very nice saw. I was using it to do some carving on a chair I'm doing last week. It's just has a good feel to it.



I cleaned up the bar a little. I think it looks good.


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## crackajeff

I went to the Webster County Wood Chopping Festival in WV last weekend and even though stihl was a sponsor, almost every saw was a husky. All of the hotsaws except for one stihl were huskies, all of the stock appearing saws were huskies except for 2 stihls, one poulan, and one makita(?), and the saw they used to clean up the cuts was a stihl. I was trying to decide between a stihl 361 and a husky 357xp and seeing all of those huskies beating those few stihls i think I've made up my mind: I'm going to be a husky guy.


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## briantutt

Is anyone running an older non-plastic Husky lke those in the museum pic? Just curious...


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## MCW

pastryguyhawaii said:


> I cleaned up the bar a little. I think it looks good.



It looks like you rubbed just the right amount of filth off to make that bar look great (ie: got rid of the logo!) 
Good looking saw though and interesting chair - I bet it took a while with a few kickbacks I'd reckon?


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## bigbadbob

So I am at my cabin for a photo shoot. Here are my huskys, and their step brother!!!:hmm3grin2orange:


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## pastryguyhawaii

MCW said:


> It looks like you rubbed just the right amount of filth off to make that bar look great (ie: got rid of the logo!)
> Good looking saw though and interesting chair - I bet it took a while with a few kickbacks I'd reckon?



I love my Stihl's but you're right, it just didn't look right on this saw. My chair is a long ways from being finished. It will be sanded smooth by the time I'm done. And yes, there was a kick back or two.


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## B_Turner

pastryguyhawaii said:


> I love my Stihl's but you're right, it just didn't look right on this saw. My chair is a long ways from being finished. It will be sanded smooth by the time I'm done. And yes, there was a kick back or two.



Time for a carving bar.


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## pastryguyhawaii

B_Turner said:


> Time for a carving bar.



I have one, it's just the wood is so solid I have to take out the bulk with a regular bar. I plan of cleaning it up with my carving saw before I start sanding. I don't know too much about carving but am trying to learn by reading and doing.


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## mickeyd

valekbrothers said:


> yea........... but its fun to run sometimes.
> Makes for some quick noodling when you don't want to wrestle the big rounds to the splitter.........



I run a 16 on my 2100 sometimes looks kinda funny But man does she rip thru some wood
MD


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## briantutt

pastryguyhawaii said:


> I have one, it's just the wood is so solid I have to take out the bulk with a regular bar. I plan of cleaning it up with my carving saw before I start sanding. I don't know too much about carving but am trying to learn by reading and doing.



Is it Koa? Let's see your permit!


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## pastryguyhawaii

briantutt said:


> Is it Koa? Let's see your permit!



LOL! I do have access to all the koa I want, I just have to pay for it. That chair is Ohia, which is only found here in Hawaii. It's great for posts for houses, furniture, and makes a good firewood.


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## briantutt

pastryguyhawaii said:


> LOL! I do have access to all the koa I want, I just have to pay for it. That chair is Ohia, which is only found here in Hawaii. It's great for posts for houses, furniture, and makes a good firewood.



My Wife lived in Kona for 10 years that's how I knew about the permit thing. We just were there in March, maybe someday permanently. Where ya at on the island. We have been all over it.


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## pastryguyhawaii

briantutt said:


> My Wife lived in Kona for 10 years that's how I knew about the permit thing. We just were there in March, maybe someday permanently. Where ya at on the island. We have been all over it.



I have a house up in Waimea. I just love it up there. I've only been here on the Big Island five years but have lived in Hawaii since '82.


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## briantutt

pastryguyhawaii said:


> I have a house up in Waimea. I just love it up there. I've only been here on the Big Island five years but have lived in Hawaii since '82.



Isn't that on the windy road of doom off of Palani?


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## pastryguyhawaii

briantutt said:


> Isn't that on the windy road of doom off of Palani?



No, Palani is down by Kona (if that's where you're talking about). Waimea is heading around the Hamakua coast towards Hilo. Beautiful country.


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## briantutt

pastryguyhawaii said:


> No, Palani is down by Kona (if that's where you're talking about). Waimea is heading around the Hamakua coast towards Hilo. Beautiful country.



The town with the world most complicated McDonald's drive through? My wife used to work for Dr. Pat Arthur and her husband is Teddy Gasper. Maybe we will have to come sit in that fancy chair next time were in town and check your Koa permit...


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## GrizzlyAdams86

*Here's Mine*

Some new and some old.

Husky 65 and 137. 65 has 16" bar and Stihl chain, 137 has 16" bar and Forester chain.







Husky 61, complements of B200Driver. 20" bar with Oregon full skip.






Husky 2100CD, nicknamed "Big Mama". Full wrap, dual spikes, currently has 20" bar with Stihl chain. 






Husky 288XP. Full wrap, dual spikes, 20" and 24" bars (here with 24") and Stihl chain.


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## briantutt

Nice 5 saw plan...Are those monstrous trees cottonwood?


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## briantutt

And I still haven't seen anyone running an all metal husky yet.


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## Banshee

It's no secret that I love Huskies. I have a 262xp on the way and hoping to add a 346xp, 372xpw, 390xp, 2100cd to the Husky family someday. 

Here's a few of mine.


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## GrizzlyAdams86

briantutt said:


> Nice 5 saw plan...Are those monstrous trees cottonwood?



The log the 2100 is on was an elm tree a dairy farmer I know cut down in his pasture. The farmer at first was just going to leave it out in the pasture but I cut it down to more mangable size for his Speeco 3-pt splitter on his 2510 John Deere.






The tree in the picture with the 288 is an oak (red oak I think) on the property I usually cut on. It's still alive so it's not coming down yet. However there is some cottonwood on the property and this one that I do belive is some form of cottonwood with my 288 w/20" in front.


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## brncreeper

The pinoak blocks were cut with the 3120. I bucked the tree with the 084 because it had the 41" bar on at the time (which still wasn't long enough). The original 36" Oregon bar finally started to delaminate after 7 years of use. I might be able to TIG weld it and save it. The new Oregon bar is pictures on the 3120.
















View attachment 100691


View attachment 100692


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View attachment 100694


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## Motodeficient

Heres my only husky so far, 72cc 268xp


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## Gizzard

motodeficient, 

What do you think of that Carlton sprocket tip bar? It looks like fairly new shape in photo so you may not have much opinion.

I've thought about getting one of those in 20 inch for my 359.

Thanks for the photo.


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## Motodeficient

I haven't had a chance to use it enough to form a good opinion. It looks better from a distance than it does if you look at it close up. The bar seems like it is heavier than it should be. It feels like it ways almost twice as much as my 20" husky bar. Thats probably an exaggeration but it is certainly heavy. As much as I will be using this bar (looking at the wood in the picture, you can see I won't use it much), the weight doesn't bother me too much. I have put it through a couple of 18" logs and it seemed to get a lot hotter than the Husky bar for some reason. Also the laminate on the bar didn't impress me either, looking closely at it when I took it out of the box it has some imperfections that would not be on a non-laminate bar. I also don't know how well a single rivet replaceable nose will hold up.

Overall paying only $30 for a 24" bar overcomes most of these problems.


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## briantutt

*Model opinions*

In your guys opinion what is a good (older) model to be on the lookout for that is smaller than my 362XP that I can put a 16 inch bar on? The 362 gets heavy after awhile and I would like a lighter but still powerful setup. Maybe a project saw for me...


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## Gizzard

briantutt said:


> In your guys opinion what is a good (older) model to be on the lookout for that is smaller than my 362XP that I can put a 16 inch bar on? The 362 gets heavy after awhile and I would like a lighter but still powerful setup. Maybe a project saw for me...



Maybe 254XP, 54cc, 4.1hp, 11.9lbs (362xp listed @13lbs, 62 cc, in 1999 catalog). However, I haven't ever run one of them. I'm sure someone will add something. Looking in husqvarna catalogs I have it looks like last year of 254 was for 1998.

If looking to go cheaper there are lots of 55's and 55R out there. The 55R has a metal case, 11.4lbs, 3.3hp, 53cc. The 55 was usually listed at 11.4lbs, 3.4hp, 53cc.


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## taplinhill

I'd get a 242XP, or maybe a 238SE. They're neat little zingers.


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## cjcocn

I recently got a few Husky chainsaws and can ID all but one of them.

The serial number tag says type 65 on it.

Clutch Side:





Flywheel Side:





It looks like a bit of work, but there is no plastic on it and I may want to fix it up and keep it. I also got a 181SE which is complete, and may opt to keep that one since it is an 80cc saw. 

Can anyone ID this saw for me?

Thanks


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## fishercat

*you are correct.*

that appears to be an L65


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## cjcocn

fishercat said:


> that appears to be an L65



Thanks for the response!

I am going to see how this saw fits into my overall plans.


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## briantutt

cjcocn said:


> I recently got a few Husky chainsaws and can ID all but one of them.
> 
> The serial number tag says type 65 on it.
> 
> Clutch Side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flywheel Side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like a bit of work, but there is no plastic on it and I may want to fix it up and keep it. I also got a 181SE which is complete, and may opt to keep that one since it is an 80cc saw.
> 
> Can anyone ID this saw for me?
> 
> Thanks



What I can ID is that it looks just like my 362XP did after we ran it over with the bobcat 

Now I don't feel so bad


----------



## briantutt

*Thread is dead...*

Nobody on earth is running a metal husky, my thread is dead...


----------



## SawTroll

fishercat said:


> that appears to be an L65



Sure it is a 65 - could either be made in Sweden, or by TOMOS in Yugoslavia - the number plate will tell........


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> Nobody on earth is running a metal husky, my thread is dead...



Not quite, look what I got the other day, its a L77.


----------



## Modifiedmark

cjcocn said:


> I recently got a few Husky chainsaws and can ID all but one of them.
> 
> The serial number tag says type 65 on it.
> 
> Clutch Side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flywheel Side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like a bit of work, but there is no plastic on it and I may want to fix it up and keep it. I also got a 181SE which is complete, and may opt to keep that one since it is an 80cc saw.
> 
> Can anyone ID this saw for me?
> 
> Thanks



Chris, that thing got a good P/C on it? I got a line on one that looks great, but its locked up.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> Not quite, look what I got the other day, its a L77.



Where do you guys find this stuff? I have stopped at every garage sale since May and only found an Eager Beaver 2.0 that nobody on earth has an IPL FOR (yes I am yelling)...

I am jealous....


----------



## matt9923

None yet, I see a lot going threw the shop  ....

I'm looking to get one, anyone have one for sale?
Matt


----------



## GrizzlyAdams86

Here's some pictures from a while back. 
288xp, L65, 137e with a load of elm.





The 2100CD and a 40" elm log I cut up for a friend of mine.


----------



## SawTroll

Modifiedmark said:


> Not quite, look what I got the other day, its a L77.



Looks _really_ nice - nice collectors item!


----------



## Modifiedmark

SawTroll said:


> Looks _really_ nice - nice collectors item!



That don't mean I can't use it if I want to does it?


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> Where do you guys find this stuff? I have stopped at every garage sale since May and only found an Eager Beaver 2.0 that nobody on earth has an IPL FOR (yes I am yelling)...
> 
> I am jealous....



I have done alright lately, but garage sales don't cut it most the time.


----------



## SawTroll

Modifiedmark said:


> That don't mean I can't use it if I want to does it?



No, if you like the almost total lack of an AV system (main difference from the 180 etc) - *but* I think that saw is rare enough (the 65 being much more common) and nice enough, to be more worth as a collectors item than as a work saw! 

Is it saying anything about TOMOS on the number plate?


----------



## Modifiedmark

SawTroll said:


> No, if you like the almost total lack of an AV system (main difference from the 180 etc) - *but* I think that saw is rare enough (the 65 being much more common) and nice enough, to be more worth as a collectors item than as a work saw!
> 
> Is it saying anything about TOMOS on the number plate?



Well I doubt if it will ever get worked too hard in my possesion, got too many others for that duty. Probably more like play at a GTG. 

Lack of AV means no difference back then when it was made. 

Far as I remember it's a Sweede saw, but I'll look again.


----------



## SawTroll

Modifiedmark said:


> ...
> Far as I remember it's a Sweede saw, but I'll look again.



It is, regardless on where it was made - it was a decision of Olof Palme, the bad azz "commie" Swedish prime minister of the time (rebemember his anti Vietnam War campaign, with Jane Fonda?), that Husky had to transfer some saw production to what was considered "Eastern Europe" at the time. Of course it was the most outdated models still in production that were transferred (about 1974).........

Later, some 162se series saws also was made by TOMOS ( I believe it mostly was the 66 - I know there are TOMOS made 66s in the US) as well.

Btw, Olof Palme was shot dead on open street in 1986, still the Prime Minister of Sweden - I never felled a tear about that. The murderer still isn't caught, even though a man originally was convicted.....


----------



## briantutt

*Is my thread dead?*

Still looking for older metal Husky pics in use. Where were these sold primarily? I NEVER see them around here.


----------



## hoss

Just re ringed my 3120. It's pushin about 167 psi right now and the rings haven't seated yet. Also have a nice 2100 with chainbrake. Just finished building an 1100 (new rings, carb rebuild). It's in nice solid shape and is an interesting saw. It differs from the 2100 more than I would have thought. I haven't tested comp yet but it is one of the hardest of my saws to pull over. Just a few nights ago I picked up a L65 on ebay for $18.00+$30.00 for shipping. It needs bar plates and a clutch cover, but looks mostly there. So it's not a lot of huskys, but they are some nice ones.


----------



## belgian

Here's a few nice huskies in my shed..

1100 CD





266SE






2101 xp





268xp






444SE






380 CD






Some of you might recall I had a like new 242xp, kinda like the pride of my husky collection. A few weeks ago, somebody made me an offer for it I couldn't refuse , so I decided to sell it... I miss it already...great little saw...


----------



## The Lorax

belgian said:


> Here's a few nice huskies in my shed..
> Some of you might recall I had a like new 242xp, kinda like the pride of my husky collection. A few weeks ago, somebody made me an offer for it I couldn't refuse , so I decided to sell it... I miss it already...great little saw...


What the hell were you smoking? Sell a like new 242xp? :censored:
Was it like an offer you couldn't refuse in monetary terms or an offer you couldn't  refuse?


----------



## hoss

belgian said:


> Here's a few nice huskies in my shed..
> 
> 1100 CD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 266SE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2101 xp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 268xp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 444SE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 380 CD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you might recall I had a like new 242xp, kinda like the pride of my husky collection. A few weeks ago, somebody made me an offer for it I couldn't refuse , so I decided to sell it... I miss it already...great little saw...




Those are some nice ones there. I especially like the 1100 and the 380.


----------



## belgian

The Lorax said:


> What the hell were you smoking? Sell a like new 242xp? :censored:
> Was it like an offer you couldn't refuse in monetary terms or an offer you couldn't  refuse?



No smoking here, but this saw was too good to be a shelve queen, and I could use some $$$ to finance other saws to add to my collection...:blush::blush:


----------



## belgian

hoss said:


> Those are some nice ones there. I especially like the 1100 and the 380.




thanks, I really like the 1100 and 2101 myself. I was offered a stihl E30 a few weeks ago and just came one day too late... he nearly gave it away to a cabinet maker, grrrrrr, otherwise it could have been crossing the atlantic as we speak...


----------



## clearance

I lke the 266 and the 2101.


----------



## hoss

belgian said:


> thanks, I really like the 1100 and 2101 myself. I was offered a stihl E30 a few weeks ago and just came one day too late... he nearly gave it away to a cabinet maker, grrrrrr, otherwise it could have been crossing the atlantic as we speak...




That noise that you hear that sounds like timber falling is my poor little old heart breaking. Thanks for remembering though.


----------



## SawTroll

The Lorax said:


> What the hell were you smoking? Sell a like new 242xp? :censored:
> Was it like an offer you couldn't refuse in monetary terms or an offer you couldn't  refuse?




Well, there are lots of pretty good 242xp's out there, if it left a hole in the collection, and imo it is outdated as a state of the art work saw (still a good one though) - but not everyone agree....


----------



## stihlaficionado

The 357xp is a great saw. Right up there w/ the 361 in performance IMO.
My 385xp...Another story. 

I bought it new, but the dealer set the carb way too rich. I took it back & the dealer again set it too rich(11,000rpm. no load). I'm about done with the dealer I bought it at. I've tinkered with the carb myself & have got it close
to where it should be(don't have tach) I think. Plug looks good, clean throttle response, won't die in cut.

With the dealer's first setting of the carb my 357 outcut the 385!


----------



## briantutt

belgian said:


> Here's a few nice huskies in my shed..
> 
> 1100 CD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 266SE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2101 xp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 268xp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 444SE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 380 CD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you might recall I had a like new 242xp, kinda like the pride of my husky collection. A few weeks ago, somebody made me an offer for it I couldn't refuse , so I decided to sell it... I miss it already...great little saw...



Now that's a nice pile of saws  nothing like those around here that I know of.


----------



## fishercat

*dealers suck around here at setting carbs.*



stihlaficionado said:


> The 357xp is a great saw. Right up there w/ the 361 in performance IMO.
> My 385xp...Another story.
> 
> I bought it new, but the dealer set the carb way too rich. I took it back & the dealer again set it too rich(11,000rpm. no load). I'm about done with the dealer I bought it at. I've tinkered with the carb myself & have got it close
> to where it should be(don't have tach) I think. Plug looks good, clean throttle response, won't die in cut.
> 
> With the dealer's first setting of the carb my 357 outcut the 385!



i'll never let them touch my saws again.i even tell them not to prep them new.


----------



## briantutt

I rebuilt the carb on my dad's 357xp. How dangerous is getting the high speed needle wrong?


----------



## brncreeper

belgian said:


> Some of you might recall I had a like new 242xp, kinda like the pride of my husky collection. A few weeks ago, somebody made me an offer for it I couldn't refuse , so I decided to sell it... I miss it already...great little saw...


Yeah, they wind up pretty high.


----------



## SawTroll

briantutt said:


> I rebuilt the carb on my dad's 357xp. How dangerous is getting the high speed needle wrong?



If you set it too lean (scew too far in).....:jawdrop::jawdrop:


----------



## briantutt

SawTroll said:


> If you set it too lean (scew too far in).....:jawdrop::jawdrop:



Maybe I better recall it and seek more advice from you guys...what are the tell tale signs of "too lean" ?

 at myself, I don't want to wreck it.


----------



## Cliff R

Got a few orange saws here, listed in the signature. I like all of them, but the 55 gets the most use these days. I still don't hesitate to get the 262XP and 268XP out when we get into larger material. The 480CD doesn't see much use these days, as they continue to log out this part of the country, the opportunities to cut larger trees are few and far between....Cliff


----------



## YZEATER

here's 2 of my husky's.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p276/YZEATER/stuff for sale/Picture037.jpg

got a real nice deal on the pair of them.

55 rancher and 350


----------



## lewis16

valekbrothers said:


> Here is our line-up..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you'll have to ignore that little one on top.



what is the little top one, is it a 190t?


----------



## valekbrothers

lewis16 said:


> what is the little top one, is it a 190t?



It is an 019t. 

But I have since sent it play with another family. It was a nice little saw. Lots of rip for 35cc. But it just didn't quite fir the color scheme.


----------



## injun joe

the 1 and only husky i got was a great saw umti i found the bigger saws. so instead i decided to play with it


----------



## briantutt

injun joe said:


> the 1 and only husky i got was a great saw umti i found the bigger saws. so instead i decided to play with it



What the :censored: would you use that for? With a muffler mod???


----------



## injun joe

briantutt said:


> What the :censored: would you use that for? With a muffler mod???



lmfao i dont know either just felt like doin it sounds cool though. i dont need that saw anyway i have others anyway.


----------



## matt9923

briantutt said:


> What the :censored: would you use that for? With a muffler mod???



Nice 6" bar LOL Is that custom?


----------



## briantutt

injun joe said:


> lmfao i dont know either just felt like doin it sounds cool though. i dont need that saw anyway i have others anyway.



I know, I almost fell on the floor looking at those pics. Limbing saw???


----------



## injun joe

matt9923 said:


> Nice 6" bar LOL Is that custom?



lol no actually its a poulan 8'' bar for tree trimmers yeah it a little rediculous but it fit so it stayed


----------



## matt9923

injun joe said:


> lol no actually its a poulan 8'' bar for tree trimmers yeah it a little rediculous but it fit so it stayed



Can we please see a video of that in action?


----------



## briantutt

matt9923 said:


> Can we please see a video of that in action?



me too!


----------



## injun joe

matt9923 said:


> Can we please see a video of that in action?[/QUOT
> 
> i was thinkin about doin that but the weather aroud her has been horrible id outside by my wood pile and get sand blasted. yeah it doesnt cut to fast but it sure does catch peoples eyes.


----------



## briantutt

*357xp*

My dad's 357XP just quit yesterday like he hit the kill switch. There is spark and the plug is wet after a few pulls but absolutely NO fire. I rebuilt the carb about 5 hours of runtime before this happened (small fiber in one port). It was running great until this latest episode.

Any ideas?


----------



## fishercat

*carb not cleaned thouroughly?*



briantutt said:


> My dad's 357XP just quit yesterday like he hit the kill switch. There is spark and the plug is wet after a few pulls but absolutely NO fire. I rebuilt the carb about 5 hours of runtime before this happened (small fiber in one port). It was running great until this latest episode.
> 
> Any ideas?



or properly? tank vent clogged?


----------



## briantutt

I assume so. I even pulled the welch plug. I would think 5 hours would have ironed out the bugs. Wouldn't a squirt in the plug hole at least make it fire if the carb was messed up?

where is the tank vent!


----------



## ciscoguy01

*wow*



Farley9n said:


> http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98922&stc=1&d=1242754340
> Some one had to step up and show a few older ones...............Bob



I'd still like that little collection...


----------



## ciscoguy01

*?????*



injun joe said:


> the 1 and only husky i got was a great saw umti i found the bigger saws. so instead i decided to play with it



What the hell do you use that to cut??? Cucumbers? Punkins???


----------



## briantutt

*Husky on route to be "wild thing"...*

http://www.manufacturing.net/article.aspx?id=223964


----------



## lewis16

i really hope husqvarna dont do that, another quality company selling to go to cheap manufacturing and cheap labour


----------



## little possum

Latest 2 orange additions, and the short bar on the 394.

Nice pruner injun joe. LOL


Brian, any spark?


----------



## briantutt

little possum,

there is visible spark but I don't know how to quantify if it is "good spark".

Brian


----------



## little possum

Oh, alright. I just misunderstand your first post about no fire. You meant firing, I was thinking spark.

I dont know what "good" spark is either. But I usually hold the plug and pull the rope  The worse the tingling, the better the spark.
Good luck, I like the 357s, heck I like all orange saws.


----------



## GrizzlyAdams86

I got the $50 "auction special" 359 back to the land of moving parts. After a new piston and a carb rebuild it lives again. I don't have any pics yet but I'm going to go and break 'er in tomorrow if the weather cooperates.


----------



## woodyman

336 and Snellerized NE346XP.


----------



## briantutt

*362XP 24" Bar*

I just got a 24 inch solid sprocket nose Husky bar for my 362XP off fleebay. Now I need to know how many drive link chain I need! 3/8 pitch...

anyone...anyone...


----------



## TRI955

*Here's my 2 keepers....*







Mike


----------



## SawTroll

briantutt said:


> I just got a 24 inch solid sprocket nose Husky bar for my 362XP off fleebay. Now I need to know how many drive link chain I need! 3/8 pitch...
> 
> anyone...anyone...



My guess would be 84dl - but not sure about the small mount bars (or is it one of the newer large mount ones, on the 372xp case?) .......

Anyway, the dl count should be stamped or etched into the bar, close to the powerhead on the right side, when the print on the bar is upright.


----------



## injun joe

ciscoguy01 said:


> What the hell do you use that to cut??? Cucumbers? Punkins???



lol acutally works extremely well when cutting lumber like 2x4's and even better on ply wood.:greenchainsaw:


----------



## briantutt

SawTroll said:


> My guess would be 84dl - but not sure about the small mount bars (or is it one of the newer large mount ones, on the 372xp case?) .......
> 
> Anyway, the dl count should be stamped or etched into the bar, close to the powerhead on the right side, when the print on the bar is upright.



You called it. It's stamped right on the bar 84DL. I should be more patient...


----------



## ciscoguy01

*Large mount*



SawTroll said:


> My guess would be 84dl - but not sure about the small mount bars (or is it one of the newer large mount ones, on the 372xp case?) .......
> 
> Anyway, the dl count should be stamped or etched into the bar, close to the powerhead on the right side, when the print on the bar is upright.



I thought all the 262 and 266xp's were large mount Trollie??? I know the 345 weren't, but thought any 60cc and more were...

opcorn:


----------



## SawTroll

ciscoguy01 said:


> I thought all the 262 and 266xp's were large mount Trollie??? I know the 345 weren't, but thought any 60cc and more were...
> 
> opcorn:



266s were large mount - 262s were small mount, and on a smaller and lighter case.

Most 362s were small mount, except the last batch made specially for a shortlived "reintro" on the US market (likely on the slightly heavier 372 case, not the 371 case that they originally were on).


----------



## GrizzlyAdams86

Here's the 359. Needed a new piston, spark plug, air filter and carb rebuild. Other than the $50 I paid for it I maybe have that much in parts costs and it came with 4 good chains too.


----------



## little possum

Nice saw grizzlyadams, and a even better price.


----------



## ingemar

*l65*



cjcocn said:


> I recently got a few Husky chainsaws and can ID all but one of them.
> 
> The serial number tag says type 65 on it.
> 
> Clutch Side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flywheel Side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like a bit of work, but there is no plastic on it and I may want to fix it up and keep it. I also got a 181SE which is complete, and may opt to keep that one since it is an 80cc saw.
> 
> Can anyone ID this saw for me?
> 
> Thanks



It is an L65. I have one that I bought in 1979 and I still use it a lot


----------



## ale

TRI955 said:


> Mike



Those are two sweet looking saws! What kind of bars are on them?


----------



## brncreeper

Used the 372 for oak tree storm cleanup.


----------



## little possum

Well I may be commiting high treason, but cheap is good. 




Yes, it definately says: 




36" 3/8s 
Just took a little time on the Uncles mill


----------



## danrclem

Here's my Husky trio. I started of with the 359 and decided that it wasn't big enough for the big stuff so I bought a 372XP. I then figured that I needed a smaller saw so I bought the 346XP a few months ago. I haven't used the 346 very much but I think I'm really gonna like it.

The 372 is wearing a 20" and I have a 24" for it also. The 359 has a 20" and the 346 has an 18".


----------



## AUSSIE1

395XP, 385XP, 371XP all ported and 371 and 395 big bored






Some shots of my 371XP BB.


----------



## oldsaw

SawTroll said:


> Sort of best of both worlds, but you need an adapter, and may need to lenghten the slot in the bar......



Yes, I posted a pic once of that setup, 3120 w/36" Stihl bar. A 4" angle grinder and a big rat tail file will make short work of the slot extension, works well.


----------



## parrisw

AUSSIE1 said:


> 395XP, 385XP, 371XP all ported and 371 and 395 big bored
> 
> Some shots of my 371XP BB.



Those sure are some purty saws. Don't see any wood chips on them, what the heck!!


----------



## little possum

LOL, saw in a box


----------



## JonCT

*362XP Special*

My 362XP Special (what a heavy, underpowered, POS!) No, I really like the saw for my needs.


----------



## TommySaw

Just got my 365 today. spent the next 4 hours tearing it apart and cleaning it up, looks great for a '98. Will throw up some pix after I dig around and find my camera.


----------



## huskyhank

Here is one of mine, a 2100CD bought new by me in '83.

<IMG SRC= "http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115201&d=1258601123"

<IMG SRC= "http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115202&d=1258601139"

<IMG SRC= "http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115203&d=1258601151"


----------



## parrisw

huskyhank said:


> Here is one of mine, a 2100CD bought new by me in '83.
> 
> <IMG SRC= "http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115201&d=1258601123"
> 
> <IMG SRC= "http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115202&d=1258601139"
> 
> <IMG SRC= "http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115203&d=1258601151"



WOW, that is one nice 2100!!!!!!!!!


----------



## AUSSIE1

parrisw said:


> Those sure are some purty saws. Don't see any wood chips on them, what the heck!!



They don't usually look this clean Will.
The 371 surprised me the most once cleaned up.


----------



## parrisw

AUSSIE1 said:


> They don't usually look this clean Will.
> The 371 surprised me the most once cleaned up.



Ya for sure. Mine are all dirty. LOL, I don't spend much time polishing them up. I do clean them though.


----------



## fishercat

*i had one of those for a short time.*



JonCT said:


> My 362XP Special (what a heavy, underpowered, POS!) No, I really like the saw for my needs.



they cut very smooth.it was a nice saw i thought.


----------



## fishercat

*you could always ....................*



huskyhank said:


> Here is one of mine, a 2100CD bought new by me in '83.
> 
> <IMG SRC= "http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115201&d=1258601123"
> 
> <IMG SRC= "http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115202&d=1258601139"
> 
> <IMG SRC= "http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115203&d=1258601151"



sell it to me used in '09 !


----------



## JonCT

*362XP Special*

Fishercat

Yeah, I am still breaking it in. I really like it so far. Why'd you get rid of yours?


----------



## briantutt

*24 incher for $35*

Oh if your patient on ebay...


----------



## little possum

There are a bunch of great lookin saws in this thread, maybe just cause im just partial to orange?
There is a 288 and 362 in the shop right now that Id really like to rescue


----------



## logging22

little possum said:


> There are a bunch of great lookin saws in this thread, maybe just cause im just partial to orange?
> There is a 288 and 362 in the shop right now that Id really like to rescue



Go 288!!:


----------



## little possum

Unfortunately he wants them fixed  We suspect a air leak on the 288 cause it wont hold a idle, or wont run WOT. And the back of the case near the carb on the 362 is broken and "patched" with JB. And it doesnt oil. 
Tryin to get the 288 for parts though


----------



## fishercat

*i had too many saws at the time.*



JonCT said:


> Fishercat
> 
> Yeah, I am still breaking it in. I really like it so far. Why'd you get rid of yours?



it seemed the one of the least necessary saws i had at the time.as much as i liked the saw,when you have one with a 372xp sticker on the recoil there isn't much point in the 362xp.if i didn't have two 372s,i would have kept it. when i sold the 362 i had six 372s.


----------



## ByTheLine

I keeper clean...


----------



## odownunder

*need to buy new husky xp where's cheapest place*

around 72cc


----------



## Freyboy23

catman963 said:


> O I'll jump in.... I like my Huskies just fine!
> 
> My saws are on the right side....





YA MAN Nothing but the best!!:rockn:


----------



## SawTroll

huskyhank said:


> Here is one of mine, a 2100CD bought new by me in '83.
> 
> <IMG SRC= "http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115203&d=1258601151"



Really interesting logo on the filter cover, for a 1983 saw - is that cover original?


----------



## huskyhank

SawTroll said:


> Really interesting logo on the filter cover, for a 1983 saw - is that cover original?



Yes, that's the original cover.
The on/off switch is the only thing that has been replaced on the saw. For some reason its backwards and the label was flipped. It never really bothered me until now. I guess I'll have to flip the switch and the label.

But it does read correctly when you're bending over.


----------



## logging22

Love the brake handle.


Les


----------



## HUSKYMAN

Nice 2100, real nice. 

I love those saws from the 80's and early 90's, the pinnacle of chainsaw power 

My contribution


----------



## porsche965

Great thread. Kudos to all you Husky men. I feel left out....

Better get my feet wet. Which model to start with? AND NO! I'm not selling my Stihls! LOL! 

Thanks for the pictures. I like Orange.


----------



## porsche965

Not counting the 44. It is on my office shelf, my Dad's old saw, he gave it to me. Looking for a Husky to play with. Probably 70 cc range. That's my gap.

thanks.


----------



## little possum

Easy one porsche, a 371-372.  Well thats from my experience, havent had any dealins with the 575 or 576

So, jump on in the water is fine, even if its stained orange. (sorry )


----------



## mickeyd

SawTroll said:


> Really interesting logo on the filter cover, for a 1983 saw - is that cover original?



an 83 with a chain brake ? my 84 has no chain brake


----------



## huskyhank

Its a Swede-O-Matic.

Look at the blue circle - On the handle is a screw. When the saw moves enough in the vibration mounts the screw contacts the "trigger" and stops the chain. The metal handle is a hand-guard and a re-set for the brake. You cannot apply the brake using the handle like on a new saw. I posted a scan of the page from the instruction manual in another thread in the last week or so.

Here's the thread --
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=115972&highlight=swede+matic

As far as model years go, I think they made different versions for different markets. I don't know that for sure, but I think its correct and explains the different equipment on these saws.

<img src="http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117469&d=1260239648"/>


----------



## porsche965

Thanks, I'll start my research. More opinions welcome without hijacking the thread. Also a great time to boast about your Huskies in the 70cc class.
I'll try to get a 44 picture up. She is a bit used but runs with all her heart last time I had her out.


----------



## huskyhank

I have a little 44 and I like it a lot.
I don't run it much but when the job is small its mighty handy.
Lets see yours!


----------



## porsche965

I get a picture tomorrow, the camera is at the office. I'm proud it was my Dad's and also all the work I did as a kid with it. 

Never so much as coughed wrong, heck of a saw, and back then, not having anything else to work wood with it was always tackling something I now would sick the 361 on. 

But the Husky she is, never missed a beat! And to this day her piston/cylinder look almost perfect.


----------



## parrisw

My 372


----------



## little possum

Awesome lookin 2100 Hank. 

Will that 372 is slick. I like that muffler mod, you can hardly even tell its been done. Is that a bolt in the decomp?
And how long is the bar?
Thanks

As Rope says "Huskys Kick!"


----------



## fishercat

*nice saw Hank!*



huskyhank said:


> Its a Swede-O-Matic.
> 
> Look at the blue circle - On the handle is a screw. When the saw moves enough in the vibration mounts the screw contacts the "trigger" and stops the chain. The metal handle is a hand-guard and a re-set for the brake. You cannot apply the brake using the handle like on a new saw. I posted a scan of the page from the instruction manual in another thread in the last week or so.
> 
> Here's the thread --
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=115972&highlight=swede+matic
> 
> As far as model years go, I think they made different versions for different markets. I don't know that for sure, but I think its correct and explains the different equipment on these saws.
> 
> <img src="http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117469&d=1260239648"/>



what part of Tenn are you in? i should be down in the Knoxville area in the spring.


----------



## fishercat

*372xp while you still can.*



porsche965 said:


> Great thread. Kudos to all you Husky men. I feel left out....
> 
> Better get my feet wet. Which model to start with? AND NO! I'm not selling my Stihls! LOL!
> 
> Thanks for the pictures. I like Orange.



xpw is even better.

346xp is the other must have.


----------



## parrisw

little possum said:


> Awesome lookin 2100 Hank.
> 
> Will that 372 is slick. I like that muffler mod, you can hardly even tell its been done. Is that a bolt in the decomp?
> And how long is the bar?
> Thanks
> 
> As Rope says "Huskys Kick!"



Decomp is plugged ya. Bar on it now is a 28". That's not a muff mod in that pic, that was one of the jungle mufflers that Baileys was selling, don't think they have them anymore.


----------



## little possum

Thanks for clearin that up for me Will, that is a sharp saw though.


----------



## parrisw

little possum said:


> Thanks for clearin that up for me Will, that is a sharp saw though.



Sure thing. I really love the saw. JacobJ built it for me. I traded him some vintage iron for it.


----------



## belgian

I found a nice husky panel this weekend along with an neon light that I'll get next week. 

looking good for my shop...here it is shown with the 346xp..


----------



## oldsaw

Cool find, Roland


----------



## TRI955

Here's my trio...

242XP





262XP





272XP






Mike


----------



## Stumpys Customs

*Here's mine*





Pee Wee, My 350 ( muffler mod) 18" .325. This was my A Christmas present from parents in 2000.
The General, My 268se ( muffler mod ) 20" 3/8 . Got this one last year from a buddy for Christmas. Didn't run very good ( pluged tank vent ). Dosn't have any problams now gettin thruogh this 36" red oak. It'l be gettin a 272 upgrade sometime this year and a 24" bar.





My saws again along with a buddys 3120 28" .404 he let me play with.


----------



## JohnnyBoy1986

Heres a pic of the 268XP i used to have, thats when i slapped the brand new 24" B&C on her. I traded her into the shop when i bought my 757 Shindaiwa, im happy but she's still on the used saw rack, pitty i was sure she'd have a home by now


----------



## little possum

Stumpyhusky, what is the set up on the dogs on the 350?


----------



## Stumpys Customs

little possum said:


> Stumpyhusky, what is the set up on the dogs on the 350?



I modified an inside dog off of a jonsered 625 II, same dog as the 268. That stuff is hard to drill. Good eye possum.


----------



## little possum

Yea. I know how it is trying to dog the 350 in. It bout doesnt work.


Love them Huskys.




394 doin work. Only got to make one cut on that white oak.  The rest was goin to the band saw


----------



## little possum

New shop material


----------



## Oldsawnut

> Decomp is plugged ya. Bar on it now is a 28". That's not a muff mod in that pic, that was one of the jungle mufflers that Baileys was selling, don't think they have them anymore.



That muffler is real common on the 371k's I have had 2 with it and seen several others that way. The early ones anyhow....

Here found one on ebay 

http://cgi.ebay.com/HUSQVARNA-371K-...temQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1ce3eca61

Warning though it doesn't have any bigger opening that the reg 372 muffler just better place to exhaust..


----------



## porsche965

I have certainly enjoyed this thread and all the contributors!

I don't have any big Husqvarna Saws yet but am really proud of my Dad's saw he gave me. A Practica 44. The only thing missing I felt it should have was a spike. So after a bought with the grinding wheel here it is. It works great! Opened up the exhaust a bit, turned the fuel up and it is my favorite woodlot saw. 

After all these years of hard work it still is original and running great! They make good saws, and you are right, the steel in the spike is extremely hardened. 

Sorry about not being able yet to get the pictures opened up correctly for you guys.
John


----------



## TRI955

porsche965 said:


> I have certainly enjoyed this thread and all the contributors!
> 
> I don't have any big Husqvarna Saws yet but am really proud of my Dad's saw he gave me. A Practica 44. The only thing missing I felt it should have was a spike. So after a bought with the grinding wheel here it is. It works great! Opened up the exhaust a bit, turned the fuel up and it is my favorite woodlot saw.
> 
> After all these years of hard work it still is original and running great! They make good saws, and you are right, the steel in the spike is extremely hardened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about not being able yet to get the pictures opened up correctly for you guys.
> John



There you go buddy....


Mike


----------



## porsche965

Thanks.


----------



## deezlfan

*263 cd*

I don't have a photo of it working wood, so this will have to do. 











Started out with a junk pile pick [Paid scrap price.] and got it fixed up for about $65 total. Lucked out and found a used rear handle to get her up and running again. Electrical tape just wasn't cuttin' it.


----------



## ticat928

parrisw said:


> Decomp is plugged ya. Bar on it now is a 28". That's not a muff mod in that pic, that was one of the jungle mufflers that Baileys was selling, don't think they have them anymore.





I am still looking to learn some more

What is the purpose of plugging the decomp?

I know it is not a must have (my 694 starts easy without it) is there a maintenance issue or reliability problem with decomps?


----------



## parrisw

ticat928 said:


> I am still looking to learn some more
> 
> What is the purpose of plugging the decomp?
> 
> I know it is not a must have (my 694 starts easy without it) is there a maintenance issue or reliability problem with decomps?



In this case, that's how I got it, and the person who built it, didn't have one on hand I think. This saw has lots of compression, so you just have to pull it at the right spot, I've just never bothered to get one and put it in.


----------



## mdavlee

Here's some pictures of my 372 and 390.


----------



## briantutt

That reduced weight bar is nice looking. Where did you find that?


----------



## Kenskip1

*picture Husqvarna new 445*

Here is my NEW 445.Plan to use it this weekend if things dry up around here, ken


----------



## firewoodman!

MR4WD said:


> Husky 359/20, 3/8 full comp.
> 372/28 full skip.
> 385/36 full skip and 8 pin rim.
> 3120/50 full skip 8 pin rim. All stihl chain.



nice collection got the bases 
 covered


----------



## woodyman

Ported Husqvarna 371XP.Looks good from a distance.


----------



## TRI955

My newest addition to the line up, 288xp with a 066 pop-up piston...












Mike


----------



## lamar_3704

Very nice 288 you've got there. IMO its one of the best saws ever made. How do you like the pop up piston in it?? I've been wanting to put one in one of mine for a while now.


----------



## belgian

here's a Husky you don't see everyday....and it's a nice runner to boot.

It's the first Husqvarna saw : the MS90 !! glad to have this one in the collection !!


----------



## briantutt

*Ms90*

That is awesome. I especially like simple lines (oh, and he HUGE muffler)!


----------



## belgian

briantutt said:


> That is awesome. I especially like simple lines (oh, and he HUGE muffler)!



thanks,

also got this other little speed wonder last week... a 242XPG with excellent compression... I think I am in love again....haha.


----------



## holshot14

*Heres mine..*

Heres my three, I love them all...


----------



## little possum

Very nice saws Roland, the 242 looks good.

Nice lineup holshot!


----------



## robfromaz1977

Here is the few saws I got. Got a 395xp and two 266se's. Bought the Ryobi last summer for my kids to learn on.


----------



## belgian

little possum said:


> Very nice saws Roland, the 242 looks good.




Thanks, 

I got another good looker, apart from a small crack in the cover. 100cc of good ole husky power. I just need the 2100 CD to complete that generation.


----------



## little possum

:drool:


----------



## briantutt

belgian said:


> Thanks,
> 
> I got another good looker, apart from a small crack in the cover. 100cc of good ole husky power. I just need the 2100 CD to complete that generation.



How heavy is that? :jawdrop:


----------



## belgian

briantutt said:


> How heavy is that? :jawdrop:



It should have the same weight as a 1100/2100/2101 I guess, not too bad actually. Too bad it has no decomp, which is tough on the operator and the starter mechanism. I put a 25"bar on it and it should be a great falling saw, whish I had some nice wood to test it


----------



## Billy Jack

Here are my saws about a week ago.













All are listed in my signature. The two missing ain't AWOL, they're MIA!!!


----------



## little possum

belgian said:


> snip...
> whish I had some nice wood to test it



Ride on over. Ive got plenty of test wood.


----------



## belgian

little possum said:


> Ride on over. Ive got plenty of test wood.




thanks for the tip.... this applies maybe well here ....:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## SawTroll

Lots of nice saws pictuered here! :love1:


----------



## belgian

SawTroll said:


> Lots of nice saws pictuered here! :love1:



:agree2:


----------



## SawTroll

belgian said:


> :agree2:



Some times I regret I am not a collector.........


----------



## belgian

SawTroll said:


> Some times I regret I am not a collector.........



Well, you still have plenty of time to start one...plenty of nice saws in Norway.....Partners, jonny's, huskies, jo-bu...


----------



## briantutt

belgian said:


> It should have the same weight as a 1100/2100/2101 I guess, not too bad actually. Too bad it has no decomp, which is tough on the operator and the starter mechanism. I put a 25"bar on it and it should be a great falling saw, whish I had some nice wood to test it



send it here, I will give it a test on some big oak!


----------



## NEP

My Husqvarna lineup:


















I also has a 254xpg but its on my shop desk for a muffler mod and a light porting.


----------



## briantutt

NEP said:


> My Husqvarna lineup:
> 
> I also has a 254xpg but its on my shop desk for a muffler mod and a light porting.



What the heck sort of attachment is on that one? It looks like a robot arm from a Scifi movie...a winch?


----------



## NEP

Its a belt driven bowl carver. It has 4 circular cutting knifes and is really effective, its cutting very large chips.

This is a link to the manufactor (sorry its in German):

http://www.eder-maschinenbau.de/produkte/eth1/index.php


----------



## fishercat

*you better hide that sucker good!*



huskyhank said:


> Its a Swede-O-Matic.
> 
> Look at the blue circle - On the handle is a screw. When the saw moves enough in the vibration mounts the screw contacts the "trigger" and stops the chain. The metal handle is a hand-guard and a re-set for the brake. You cannot apply the brake using the handle like on a new saw. I posted a scan of the page from the instruction manual in another thread in the last week or so.
> 
> Here's the thread --
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=115972&highlight=swede+matic
> 
> As far as model years go, I think they made different versions for different markets. I don't know that for sure, but I think its correct and explains the different equipment on these saws.
> 
> <img src="http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117469&d=1260239648"/>



I'll be down there in a week or two! :smoking:


----------



## briantutt

NEP said:


> Its a belt driven bowl carver. It has 4 circular cutting knifes and is really effective, its cutting very large chips.
> 
> This is a link to the manufactor (sorry its in German):
> 
> http://www.eder-maschinenbau.de/produkte/eth1/index.php



Here is as close as I can come...

EDER Troghöhler ETH1 is Ausfräsen wells in wood. It can be used for the manufacture of Trögen, of bildhauerische work for tree surgical measures and Ausfräsen trunks. Arrangement circular blade designed both longitudinal and lateral processing. The peak is in the wood and absorbs most of the cutting forces. Thus, a large removal volume per unit of time is possible. There are four round knife which create a smooth surface without vibrations on the head

What do you use it for?


----------



## belgian

briantutt said:


> What do you use it for?



Looks like NEK is a carver. Than such tool seems handy to remove a lot of wood.


----------



## NEP

Yes I'm a carver.
I use the attachment for deep hollow spots where a chainsaw would give me a lot of kickbacks. I also use it for carving seats.

Like this:


----------



## little possum

photo editor


----------



## BuddhaKat

That Eder company is pretty impressive. They have a lot of products that are brilliant, but what else would you expect from the Germans. I found an English translation manual for this unit, but their other stuff is equally impressive. I would think an American distributor would do well with their products.

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131707&stc=1&d=1270223682


----------



## NEP

BuddhaKat said:


> That Eder company is pretty impressive. They have a lot of products that are brilliant, but what else would you expect from the Germans. I found an English translation manual for this unit, but their other stuff is equally impressive. I would think an American distributor would do well with their products.



I think you can get the EDER products from both Bob King WA and Jamie Doeren WI.


----------



## Gypo Logger

I think my 385 is the fastest in this thread so far! Lol
24" Rock Maple with 28" Oregon Pro bar.
I'm the mang! lol
Gypo

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/7Q4ko3gUFgw&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/7Q4ko3gUFgw&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>


----------



## belgian

Gypo may have the fastest, I have the husky that vibrates the most.... 

this is a F70 Husky, 70cc, and a runner of course. No AV at all on this one...and it really shows...

















I have the same in army green version, but it's unfortunately not complete.


----------



## SawTroll

No surprice, as it is a Cresent design - basically an outboard engine with a bar and handles on!


----------



## belgian

SawTroll said:


> No surprice, as it is a Cresent design - basically an outboard engine with a bar and handles on!



You are right of course. Why Husky went with this model in the programm is a real mystery to me. Peculiar is the slim cylinder design...one wouldn't guess this is a 70 cc engine.


----------



## pioneerguy600

belgian said:


> You are right of course. Why Husky went with this model in the programm is a real mystery to me. Peculiar is the slim cylinder design...one wouldn't guess this is a 70 cc engine.



I second the vibration on that model, the Crescent was a short lived version of a Husqvarna chainsaw and for some good reasons. LOL.
Pioneerguy600


----------



## briantutt

cjcocn said:


> I recently got a few Husky chainsaws and can ID all but one of them.
> 
> The serial number tag says type 65 on it.
> 
> Flywheel Side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like a bit of work, but there is no plastic on it and I may want to fix it up and keep it. I also got a 181SE which is complete, and may opt to keep that one since it is an 80cc saw.
> 
> Can anyone ID this saw for me?
> 
> Thanks



What is the number on that little metal ID tag on the flywheel side? I found a saw at a garage sale that looks very similar to yours, the metal tag number has a permanent "0650" on it then some more numbers after that that look etched on (serial number?) 

Wondering what I found and how much it's worth. It's in the middle of no-where so maybe it will still be there tomorrow...

It could be an A65???? I don't think I saw a chain brake lever...


----------



## SawTroll

briantutt said:


> What is the number on that little metal ID tag on the flywheel side? I found a saw at a garage sale that looks very similar to yours, the metal tag number has a permanent "0650" on it then some more numbers after that that look etched on (serial number?)
> 
> Wondering what I found and how much it's worth. It's in the middle of no-where so maybe it will still be there tomorrow...
> 
> It could be an A65???? I don't think I saw a chain brake lever...



A65 or L65.


----------



## SawTroll

belgian said:


> You are right of course. Why Husky went with this model in the programm is a real mystery to me. Peculiar is the slim cylinder design...one wouldn't guess this is a 70 cc engine.



The story is that Cresent agreed to not make chainsaws, in exchange for Husky aborting an ourboard engines program - but the reason that Husky actually "adopted" that rather bad design is a mystery. Maybe as a "stop-gap" solution, at least they were a lot lighter than the 90/100?????

They even made them for Partner, in Partner yellow - even though I think Partner had better alternatives at the time????

Lots of question marks here, and that is no coincidence.


----------



## briantutt

SawTroll said:


> A65 or L65.



Worth picking up?


----------



## briantutt

*Too Late*

CAD got the best of me...

Does anyone have an IPL and/or manual? 

[email protected]


----------



## REJ2

Briantutt, I have so enjoyed this whole thread, I hope it never ends!! REJ2


----------



## NEP

briantutt said:


> CAD got the best of me...
> 
> Does anyone have an IPL and/or manual?
> 
> [email protected]



Email send!


----------



## briantutt

*A65/l65*

Mine doesn't have a chain brake or even a chain guard :jawdrop:

NEP, Does the IPL you sent interchange other than the chain brake area?

I hope I can find a new fuel line, the missing air filter cover and an uncracked handle (handle still functions but has a small crack). Otherwise the saw seems in pretty good shape. Those three parts and it should be rockin for next winters wood supply duty :chainsawguy:

Thanks again NEP!


----------



## NEP

New email send. This is the 65A introduced in 1968 and the 65L introduced in 1974


----------



## briantutt

NEP, do you have a massive stock pile of Husqvarna info or what!

Do you have parts too?

Your the man...

This thread could end up as helpfull as the Pioneer thread if another guy or two has info like you do.


----------



## NEP

I dont have parts, but I do have the info! Just ask. :biggrinbounce2:


----------



## briantutt

NEP said:


> I dont have parts, but I do have the info! Just ask. :biggrinbounce2:



Okay, I will!

It looks like method of fuel line routing could be the tell all for which version I have. The 1968 version looks like it goes through some multi piece adapter on the flywheel side and the 1974 version is a one piece fuel line that enters the tank on the clutch side?


----------



## NEP

Yes. There are a lot of other differences but the fuel line is completely different.


----------



## briantutt

NEP said:


> Yes. There are a lot of other differences but the fuel line is completely different.



Of the three manuals you sent mine appears to be most like the 1974 version except it has no hand guard (could have been removed). There is no chain brake like the 1981 version for sure. So if my gas line looks like the 1974 that IPL should be the one to go by correct? It definitely is not like the 1968 version (gas line layout is tell tale).

Unless there are of course more versions...


----------



## NEP

I only know of these 3 versions.


----------



## briantutt

*65 Oiler*

How does that gear driven oiler work? Does it oil all the time? I guess all auto-oilers probably oil even when idling...Just haven't seen one like this before.


----------



## NEP

On an old saw like the 65 the oiler is pumping all the time also when ideling.

Modern saws only pumps when the clutch engage.


----------



## briantutt

How serious does this look? Piston has some scoring above and below rings at exhaust about 1/2 inch wide.

If I have a spark plug in tight, how hard should it be to rotate the flywheel by hand?


----------



## BuddhaKat

Time to call out the Honor Guard for that soldier.


----------



## briantutt

BuddhaKat said:


> Time to call out the Honor Guard for that soldier.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400113610368&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123

Will this solve it?


----------



## NEP

Not good,  looks like straight gas or maybe very lean.

But that saw is not a saw to use its a collectors item. It's always fun when they can run, but they are not for usage.


----------



## belgian

briantutt said:


> How serious does this look? Piston has some scoring above and below rings at exhaust about 1/2 inch wide.
> 
> If I have a spark plug in tight, how hard should it be to rotate the flywheel by hand?



that is pretty serious indeed. Like NEK said, it's scored. You'll need to pull the jug to see the damage for real. Also have a look at the crank bearings....lots a work ahead I think.


----------



## Modifiedmark

NEP said:


> On an old saw like the 65 the oiler is pumping all the time also when ideling.
> 
> Modern saws only pumps when the clutch engage.



Not true, the 65 I have drives the oil pump from the clutch drum which is not turning at idle.


----------



## NEP

Modifiedmark said:


> Not true, the 65 I have drives the oil pump from the clutch drum which is not turning at idle.



Good we newer get too old to learn. Sorry my mistake.


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400113610368&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123
> 
> Will this solve it?



Brian, I just got the same piston from the same seller this week. Looks good too. It took 2 weeks for it to arrive from Greece. 


I plan on putting mine back together soon as I have it all the way down. I got a gasket kit with seals for it and along with crank brgs it should be good to go soon.


----------



## NEP

briantutt said:


> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400113610368&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123
> 
> Will this solve it?



You need to check the cylinder as well, it can be just as damaged.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> Brian, I just got the same piston from the same seller this week. Looks good too. It took 2 weeks for it to arrive from Greece.
> 
> 
> I plan on putting mine back together soon as I have it all the way down. I got a gasket kit with seals for it and along with crank brgs it should be good to go soon.



Are you repainting it too...:Eye:


----------



## briantutt

Here are the guts. The cylinder has marks by the exhaust but it feels smooth other than a small area right below the (bearing side) the exhaust port. You can see a little silver buildup in the photo. Shouldn't I be able to get that little bit of buildup off with something? Not sure how I check the bearing but the little bit I can see looks very clean, no rust (although now I wonder how I will keep this area clean)


----------



## SawTroll

briantutt said:


> Worth picking up?



Imo not! 

..but I am not a collector!

= that saw is a collectors item only - just too old for anything else, and there were better saws out there in most of its time (Jonsereds)!

Husky wasn't the leading brand back then (1966-1974), Jonsereds was!


----------



## briantutt

SawTroll said:


> Imo not!
> 
> ..but I am not a collector!
> 
> = that saw is a collectors item only - just too old for anything else, and there were better saws out there in most of its time (Jonsereds)!
> 
> Husky wasn't the leading brand back then (1966-1974), Jonsereds was!



I have a 70E I really like...


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> Are you repainting it too...:Eye:



No not this one, just makeing it run again.


----------



## SawTroll

briantutt said:


> Worth picking up?



No, hardly even a collectors item in that condition, and a saw that never could compete with the Jonsereds of its days (1966-1974), except maybe in 66-67. opcorn:


*Edit;* Ooops - my computer (or the site) is playing games with me - I thought my first answer was lost, but now I see that it wasn't! LOL


----------



## NEP

SawTroll said:


> Imo not!
> 
> ..but I am not a collector!
> 
> = that saw is a collectors item only - just too old for anything else, and there were better saws out there in most of its time (Jonsereds)!
> 
> Husky wasn't the leading brand back then (1966-1974), Jonsereds was!





NEP said:


> But that saw is not a saw to use its a collectors item. It's always fun when they can run, but they are not for usage.



:agree2: 

LOL- we agree again. Both on the collector part and the Jonsered part


----------



## NEP

briantutt said:


> I have a 70E I really like...



What do you think of the vibrations, the sound level and the weight????

IMO thats also a very interesting COLLECTORS item, but not a saw to use. Too old.

I'm a user first and a collector second.


----------



## briantutt

You guys are wrecking my CAD...


----------



## NEP

briantutt said:


> You guys are wrecking my CAD...



No, No, collecting is also CAD, getting a vintage saw running is a fun hobby.

Just get a modern one for firewood cutting, felling or what you are using a chainsaw for.

Don't wreck your hands with vibrations, your shoulders and back with weight or your face with the absence of a chainbrake


----------



## briantutt

NEP said:


> No, No, collecting is also CAD, getting a vintage saw running is a fun hobby.
> 
> Just get a modern one for firewood cutting, felling or what you are using a chainsaw for.
> 
> Don't wreck your hands with vibrations, your shoulders and back with weight or your face with the absence of a chainbrake



That's what my 362XP is for! I goof around with my old saws that run when I am cutting firewood but when it's time to destroy some serious quantity the 362XP is out and burnin...


----------



## NEP

briantutt said:


> That's what my 362XP is for! I goof around with my old saws that run when I am cutting firewood but when it's time to destroy some serious quantity the 362XP is out and burnin...



:greenchainsaw:

Exactly what I meant.


----------



## SawTroll

NEP said:


> What do you think of the vibrations, the sound level and the weight????
> 
> IMO thats also a very interesting COLLECTORS item, but not a saw to use. Too old.
> 
> I'm a user first and a collector second.




I never used a 70, but I once compared the vibes of my 1970 vintage Jonsereds Raket 621 to a much smaller 2004 MS250 - the ol' 621 was the clear winner! opcorn:


----------



## nikocker

Took my 261 rebuilt as a 262XP out for a workout this weekend in some oak.
Spike - - that new clutch did the trick!
FUN, FUN, FUN!

Al


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> Brian, I just got the same piston from the same seller this week. Looks good too. It took 2 weeks for it to arrive from Greece.
> 
> 
> I plan on putting mine back together soon as I have it all the way down. I got a gasket kit with seals for it and along with crank brgs it should be good to go soon.



Where did you get the gasket kit? I found one place to get most of the gaskets I need but it's pretty expensive, maybe a kit is a better idea. I wasn't planning on splitting the case since it looks nice and clean in the crank area. I think I may be able to salvage my cylinder using the muriatic acid etch method but the piston looks fairly mangled. Please let me know how the piston works out.

Also, there is a threaded rod sticking out of the top of the cylinder. Is it supposed to be there or is it the remainder of a broken bolt used to hold the air filter cover on?


----------



## briantutt

*Is this guy on crack?*

I can't believe it has no bids...:monkey:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260584930885&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:US:1123


----------



## REJ2

nikocker said:


> Took my 261 rebuilt as a 262XP out for a workout this weekend in some oak.
> Spike - - that new clutch did the trick!
> FUN, FUN, FUN!
> 
> Al



Man, that tree looks like it was a quarter mile tall!!! REJ2


----------



## fishercat

*if not crack......................*



briantutt said:


> I can't believe it has no bids...:monkey:
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260584930885&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:US:1123



something.I'd put that 5 bills toward a new saw before I bought an oil pump like that.


----------



## BuddhaKat

nikocker said:


> Took my 261 rebuilt as a 262XP out for a workout this weekend in some oak.
> Spike - - that new clutch did the trick!
> FUN, FUN, FUN!
> 
> Al


Didn't know Husky made a tractor that big. Must run like a raped ape.


----------



## nikocker

Yeah - I know - - I have a thing for orange!

Al


----------



## Billy Jack

nikocker said:


> Yeah - I know - - I have a thing for orange!
> 
> Al



Me too!


----------



## BuddhaKat

Billy Jack said:


> Me too!


Ooh. Hugger Orange with White Stripes. MIKEY LIKES IT!!


----------



## briantutt

*65 gasket kit obtained*

I now have a complete gasket/seal kit for the 65. Now I have a VERY important opinion question (okay maybe not that important).

If I have the cylinder off anyway should I split the case and change the oil seals and case gasket since I have new ones as part of the clean up project? Or is this one of those "don't fix it if it ain't broke" sort of things...

Saw has spark, don't know if oiler works or if there is an air leak. I am worried I may ruin more than I fix if I split it.


----------



## Billy Jack

BuddhaKat said:


> Ooh. Hugger Orange with White Stripes. MIKEY LIKES IT!!



Thanks. HO was only available on '99 models. I had it repainted last year (stripes are painted as well, not decal). I sometimes wonder if my preference for Husqvarna saws helped me to decide to buy the HO.

It's my daily driver.


----------



## briantutt

*Carb question*

I got a new carb kit from Calvin. Every thing looks good except when the small Welch plug is removed there appears to be a tiny screen held in with a metal c-ring. Is this screen available? It looks very corroded. You can see the screen and the ring in the lower left corner.


----------



## Cedarkerf

Mntngal had a little fun with the 372XPW can you tell by the grin


----------



## briantutt

NEP said:


> What do you think of the vibrations, the sound level and the weight????
> 
> IMO thats also a very interesting COLLECTORS item, but not a saw to use. Too old.
> 
> I'm a user first and a collector second.



I never answered you I see. The 70E is of course heavier than my 362XP but it is actually quieter (I think) but that is probably because it has less RPMs. The 362XP actually has a power-band feel like a motorcycle so it gets pretty loud. I don't seem to feel too much of a difference vibe wise but it is noticeable heavier. The worst vibe saw I have is a little Poulan S25DA that feels like it is going to shake your hands off.


----------



## StihlGuitar

*44 practica*

Whats the Practica? were all 44's with white tops Practica's if noit, whats the difference? Here's one that i just got, am going to sell or trade and trying to get the lowdown on these. This one is beautiful.


----------



## briantutt

*Husqvarna 65*

OKAY, Who got it...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180503704541&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBUAA:US:1123


----------



## briantutt

*Ready to rebuild*

I finally got a new piston and ring for my 65. I have a general question however. Am I better off splitting the case, replacing seals etc. (since they came in the gasket kit I got) or am I better off just putting on the new piston, rebuilding carb and seeing if it runs good first.

In other words does "if it ain't broke don't fix it" apply in the case of a scored old chainsaw or not?

Any thoughts on this are appreciated.


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> I finally got a new piston and ring for my 65. I have a general question however. Am I better off splitting the case, replacing seals etc. (since they came in the gasket kit I got) or am I better off just putting on the new piston, rebuilding carb and seeing if it runs good first.
> 
> In other words does "if it ain't broke don't fix it" apply in the case of a scored old chainsaw or not?
> 
> Any thoughts on this are appreciated.



If ya have seals, I'd put them in for peace of mind. You shouldn't have to split the case to do so.


----------



## sefh3

Did some trading lately and picked up a nice 480 CD from a member here. One thing I noticed, the clutch doesn't stay on. I think it's missing something. I have an IPL for it and it shows me pictures and part number but no sticken description of what they are.


----------



## sefh3

Here's a picture of what I have.







Please tell me what I'm missing.


----------



## parrisw

sefh3 said:


> Here's a picture of what I have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please tell me what I'm missing.



The clutch just threads onto the end of the crankshaft? What's the problem.


----------



## sefh3

There is alot of play between the clutch drum and the oiler. I was thinking it was missing a washer that would allow it to be tightened up.


----------



## SawTroll

StihlGuitar said:


> Whats the Practica? were all 44's with white tops Practica's if noit, whats the difference? ......



The 1988 IPL shows the top cover options as dark gray and orange, no mention of white. The "Practica" designation was lost at some point, and may not have been used on all markets - about like "Farm Boss" and "Wood Boss" on Stihls, and "Rancher" on other Huskys.


----------



## briantutt

*65 flywheel and clutch*

Does anyone know for sure if the crank threads for the clutch side are left handed and right handed for the flywheel side? I am going to fully disassemble the 65 so I can clean it up better but I am always nervous that I am reefing on things the wrong direction.


----------



## J.Walker

Some new and used additions. A new 357xp, used 359, a used 262xpg and a new 365 Special.


































* Husky kicks!


----------



## sunfish

> 65 flywheel and clutch
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Does anyone know for sure if the crank threads for the clutch side are left handed and right handed for the flywheel side? I am going to fully disassemble the 65 so I can clean it up better but I am always nervous that I am reefing on things the wrong direction.



Stuff like this loosens the same direction as it runs. 
Clutch side clockwise. Flywheel, counter clock.


----------



## Cantdog

Yes all saws that I know of all crank threads on the clutch side are left hand and all crank threads on the flywheel side are right hand. That makes them both self tightening.


----------



## sunfish

Very Nice additions, J.Walker!!!

I just got a used 357xp and I'm looking at a new 365 but not sure I want it.


----------



## Cantdog

J Walker; Those are some very clean and good looking Huskys. I really, really, really like that 262 XPG. Can I have it?????? LOLOLOLOL!!!!!


----------



## J.Walker

For the wall of the shop, a sign.









.


----------



## J.Walker

Cantdog said:


> J Walker; Those are some very clean and good looking Huskys. I really, really, really like that 262 XPG. Can I have it?????? LOLOLOLOL!!!!!




No!
The 262xpg I bought it off Cl in Seattle. I felt like I just stole the Space Needle. This saw was a replacement for the one fellow member Manual took from me!



.


----------



## sunfish

Here's my two Huskys'. The little 346xp has been my 'go to saw' (firewood) for 9 years, and still will be. The 357xp is for really large trees, over 20"...


----------



## AUSSIE1

J.Walker said:


> No!
> The 262xpg I bought it off Cl in Seattle. I felt like I just stole the Space Needle. This saw was a replacement for the one fellow member Manual took from me!
> 
> 
> 
> .



So obviously you never saw that saw again Jack?


----------



## Cantdog

J.Walker said:


> No!
> The 262xpg I bought it off Cl in Seattle. I felt like I just stole the Space Needle. This saw was a replacement for the one fellow member Manual took from me!
> 
> 
> 
> .



Now my feelings are hurt I do remember that Manual thread..........I still want it........... but I guess you earned it the hard way, Twice even... ENJOY!!!!!!! (It's wicked nice!!)


----------



## J.Walker

AUSSIE1 said:


> So obviously you never saw that saw again Jack?



No my saw and $$$ is still gone. I have called and spoken to his wife and asked that the saw be returned. Manual has never called me back. It's been 4 years now!


----------



## Cantdog

J.Walker said:


> No my saw and $$$ is still gone. I have called and spoken to his wife and asked that the saw be returned. Manual has never called me back. It's been 4 years now!



That's poor.. Maybe you're better off with this one. It looks hardly used............Hey!! I'll port it for you just send it up/down East!! Don't worry I'll pay the return shipping!!!

Seriously though I can understand personal problems that can affect a mans business but that doesn't excuse taking another mans money AND saw and then just clamming up, refusing to communicate. Just return the saw at the very least. Sucks, I hate losers. Manual was probably his own worst enemy but he was able to change that through these actions. To bad you had to pay for his inadequacies.
If you are anything like me you never get over being ripped off. I mean you get over it and move on but the knowledge never goes away.

Long live the "NEW" 262XPG!!!!! Yes if we are at GTG here or there I would like to give 'er a go.. WOT!!!


----------



## parrisw

Nice saws MR Walker. love that 262, I just picked up a cherry one too.


----------



## Cantdog

Oh sure, you too???LOLOL!! Well I'm building one for an old friend. Working it over a tad. Man there is not a lot to port on these guys. Pretty much a real factory hotrod. Port width is real close already to the piston windows. But it is not mine....and it's already lived an entire life in the pulpwood industry. I'll do what I can and she will be solid and run strong. If not pretty.


----------



## parrisw

Cantdog said:


> Oh sure, you too???LOLOL!! Well I'm building one for an old friend. Working it over a tad. Man there is not a lot to port on these guys. Pretty much a real factory hotrod. Port width is real close already to the piston windows. But it is not mine....and it's already lived an entire life in the pulpwood industry. I'll do what I can and she will be solid and run strong. If not pretty.



Yup here she is.


----------



## MadMax5578

J.Walker said:


> For the wall of the shop, a sign.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Nice! I see those old chainsaw signs sold on eBay for a hefty price tag too. Cool stuff.


----------



## little possum

Very nice saws, and sign!

I drooled on a new shiny 3120 today. What a hog!


----------



## briantutt

sunfish said:


> Stuff like this loosens the same direction as it runs.
> Clutch side clockwise. Flywheel, counter clock.



Now that the nut is off how can I pull the flywheel? It seems very thin and the fins stick out awkwardly so I don't think I should pull on the outer edges. Can I remove the starter pawls and use the holes? I circled them in red in the attached pdf, one pawl bolt left in one removed to show what I mean. There are only a couple threads as the flywheel is very thin.


----------



## sunfish

Been a long time since I pulled a flywheel off saw. There's probably a special puller for that, but I would drive a wedge under the wheel and another on the opposite side, then hit the shaft with a brass hammer. Usually pops right off, have done this on old motors in the past.

Someone here with more experience will chime in soon.


----------



## briantutt

*65 flywheel*

I am mostly worried I will wreck something behind there. I almost wrecked the points on a Pioneer when I pulled the flywheel.


----------



## sunfish

Should not be points under this one. Wheel puller would be best, though.


----------



## mweba

Cantdog said:


> Yes all saws that I know of all crank threads on the clutch side are left hand and all crank threads on the flywheel side are right hand. That makes them both self tightening.



With the exception of some Power Products engines. Fly wheel is left hand thread on every one I have delt with.


----------



## belgian

mweba said:


> With the exception of some Power Products engines. Fly wheel is left hand thread on every one I have delt with.



Hmmmm, are you sure ??? opcorn:


----------



## mweba

belgian said:


> Hmmmm, are you sure ??? opcorn:



Yes but not sure if it is the norm. Almost ruined my first crank shaft due to this.


----------



## briantutt

*65 flywheel*

According to some photos of flywheels and fans on ebay it looks like the fan is a separate piece from the flywheel (this explains why the fan is so thin). If I wedge behind the fan am I going to break it? Is there a way to remove the fan first then I could easily pull the flywheel...


----------



## sunfish

briantutt said:


> According to some photos of flywheels and fans on ebay it looks like the fan is a separate piece from the flywheel (this explains why the fan is so thin). If I wedge behind the fan am I going to break it? Is there a way to remove the fan first then I could easily pull the flywheel...



I would use wooden wedges and drive them in lightly, tap on the shaft and drive them lightly again. Just go slow and don't force it too much. I've removed alluminun wheels and such this way many times and never broke anything.


----------



## ric5141

mweba said:


> Yes but not sure if it is the norm. Almost ruined my first crank shaft due to this.



That picture is a left handed thread If you follow the spiral you can see it loosens by turning clockwise facing it


----------



## Cantdog

mweba said:


> With the exception of some Power Products engines. Fly wheel is left hand thread on every one I have delt with.



Well there you go!! Learn something new every day!! Is that on the AH-47? Your pic looks like Mono Red. I've not had to take the flywheel off my Mono yet but that sure is good info for when I do. Is the clutch side lefthand on these motors too? Now you got me thinking, I believe when I get to the shop this morning I'll take a close look at my Mono and see if mine is this way.


----------



## mweba

Cantdog said:


> Well there you go!! Learn something new every day!! Is that on the AH-47? Your pic looks like Mono Red. I've not had to take the flywheel off my Mono yet but that sure is good info for when I do. Is the clutch side lefthand on these motors too? Now you got me thinking, I believe when I get to the shop this morning I'll take a close look at my Mono and see if mine is this way.



Another good question. I cant remember so it must be left hand thread. If it was not then I think it would stick in my head. Yes this one is a mono that I have apart at the moment. Will check later when I have time. 51mm bore I beleive a AH-47.


----------



## Cantdog

Well mweba I removed the recoil from my Mono and it is different still!!! My flywheel crank threads are right hand took the nut off just to check. Did the same thing to the clutch side and they were right hand thread as well!!! No lef hand theads on my Mono at all!!! WTH!!!!!


----------



## briantutt

*?mono?*

What is a Mono?


----------



## mweba

Cantdog said:


> Well mweba I removed the recoil from my Mono and it is different still!!! My flywheel crank threads are right hand took the nut off just to check. Did the same thing to the clutch side and they were right hand thread as well!!! No lef hand theads on my Mono at all!!! WTH!!!!!



The plot thickens! I will have to watch myself on the clutch side as well. Just a thought, is the crank tapered on both sides? Meaning is my crank in backwards?



briantutt said:


> What is a Mono?


Cool looking saws ofcourse.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=30680&highlight=mono+chainsaw


----------



## Cantdog

mweba said:


> The plot thickens! I will have to watch myself on the clutch side as well. Just a thought, is the crank tapered on both sides? Meaning is my crank in backwards?
> 
> 
> Cool looking saws ofcourse.
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=30680&highlight=mono+chainsaw




Well that is exactly what I was thinking, but on mine both sides are right hand threads so even if that were the case it wouldn't matter which way the crank was in.???? Perhaps the acceleration rates and working rpm of these old motors was so slow they didn't require selftightening threads.

Brian the Mono is a brand of saw among others that used the AH-47 motor.


----------



## briantutt

I saw the pictures in that link. It is a cool looking saw. The little tire repair place near me has a few old saws hanging up in the rafters that look similar. I will have to pay closer attention next time I am in there.


----------



## briantutt

*Husqvarna 65*

I still can't get the flywheel off the 65. There is no place to wedge behind the fan. I think I am going to have to find the right metric thread size and bolt the universal puller on that I have and bolt it on to the small holes that hold the dawgs on. The only other option is to pry on the fan blades but that just seems wrong...


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> I still can't get the flywheel off the 65. There is no place to wedge behind the fan. I think I am going to have to find the right metric thread size and bolt the universal puller on that I have and bolt it on to the small holes that hold the dawgs on. The only other option is to pry on the fan blades but that just seems wrong...



Ya, just do it right. Get the bolts and use a puller. That's how I do it. If you cant' get it off with the puller, set the puller really tight, and then hit the end of the puller with a hammer, I have to do this lots to get them off.


----------



## schmuck.k

will a 365sp Ignition Module fit in a 390xp?


----------



## briantutt

parrisw said:


> Ya, just do it right. Get the bolts and use a puller. That's how I do it. If you cant' get it off with the puller, set the puller really tight, and then hit the end of the puller with a hammer, I have to do this lots to get them off.



Got some M5 bolts tonight. Bolted on the puller using all four threaded holes in the flywheel. The first time I tried to pull it one of the four bolts partially pulled out threads from one of the four holes  still usable luckily.

So next I put four new ones in WAY further and tightened up the center bolt as much as I dare. Still won't come loose, tapped some on the center bolt, sprayed it with penetrant, left it sit with the tension still on and went in the house.

Do you think it will magically pop apart over the next few days if I just leave the tension on it and keep tapping on the bolt and spraying on more penetrant? 

Stubborn thing :dunno:


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> Got some M5 bolts tonight. Bolted on the puller using all four threaded holes in the flywheel. The first time I tried to pull it one of the four bolts partially pulled out threads from one of the four holes  still usable luckily.
> 
> So next I put four new ones in WAY further and tightened up the center bolt as much as I dare. Still won't come loose, tapped some on the center bolt, sprayed it with penetrant, left it sit with the tension still on and went in the house.
> 
> Do you think it will magically pop apart over the next few days if I just leave the tension on it and keep tapping on the bolt and spraying on more penetrant?
> 
> Stubborn thing :dunno:



Get a hammer, and hit the end of the puller really hard, it needs to be a good rap of the hammer, and the puller must be very tight, I just did one today like that, I shoulda done a video, but never thought of it.


----------



## briantutt

parrisw said:


> Get a hammer, and hit the end of the puller really hard, it needs to be a good rap of the hammer, and the puller must be very tight, I just did one today like that, I shoulda done a video, but never thought of it.



I was afraid to give it a nice hard wack. I won't hurt the crank or bearings or anything? The puller does have a nice ball bearing in the center bolt, and it is as very tight, I can feel the four M5 bolts stretching, have the fender washers bent right down to the puller.

Just go smack it?


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> I was afraid to give it a nice hard wack. I won't hurt the crank or bearings or anything? The puller does have a nice ball bearing in the center bolt, and it is as very tight, I can feel the four M5 bolts stretching, have the fender washers bent right down to the puller.
> 
> Just go smack it?



Just go smack it. Yup I've used up lots of sets of washers, they get all bent to crap. Don't be afraid to hit it, wont hurt a thing. Just make sure its sitting on the bench, holding it down with one hand, it will pop off so you don't want to drop anything.


----------



## briantutt

parrisw said:


> Just go smack it. Yup I've used up lots of sets of washers, they get all bent to crap. Don't be afraid to hit it, wont hurt a thing. Just make sure its sitting on the bench, holding it down with one hand, it will pop off so you don't want to drop anything.



+1 for parrisW 

3 good smacks and she popped off. Good tip on making sure it was turned the right way on the bench so it didn't fly on the floor.







Now the question is what all else needs to come off before I can split the case. A lot more parts under the flywheel than I expected to see. Pretty clean though.


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> +1 for parrisW
> 
> 3 good smacks and she popped off. Good tip on making sure it was turned the right way on the bench so it didn't fly on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> Now the question is what all else needs to come off before I can split the case. A lot more parts under the flywheel than I expected to see. Pretty clean though.



Goon on ya mate!! Glad you got it done. I'm not too familiar with 65, been years since I've been in one, and I've never split the case on one, but you should be able to pull the coil and the whole breaker plate off, then split the case.


----------



## briantutt

parrisw said:


> Goon on ya mate!! Glad you got it done. I'm not too familiar with 65, been years since I've been in one, and I've never split the case on one, but you should be able to pull the coil and the whole breaker plate off, then split the case.



That makes sense because it looks like the plate sorta covers the other crank seal.

Thank you again and cheers


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> That makes sense because it looks like the plate sorta covers the other crank seal.
> 
> Thank you again and cheers



Your welcome.


----------



## briantutt

*65 timing*

Newbie question on the breaker plate and timing in general. There are slots on the breaker plate where the two bolts hold it to the case suggesting that it has some adjustment for location. Coils is mounted to the timing plate. How does the timing work on a saw like this? I don't see anything on the crank that interacts with the breaker. The flywheel is keyed to the crank so the magnets are obviously aligned that way but how do you set the breaker/coil location?

:newbie:


----------



## turtle561

*i didn't know....*






just for laughs, somthing i cooked up to mess with the local mullet heads. it needs a husky starter to complete it, haven't found one yet.donations accepted:biggrinbounce2:


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> Newbie question on the breaker plate and timing in general. There are slots on the breaker plate where the two bolts hold it to the case suggesting that it has some adjustment for location. Coils is mounted to the timing plate. How does the timing work on a saw like this? I don't see anything on the crank that interacts with the breaker. The flywheel is keyed to the crank so the magnets are obviously aligned that way but how do you set the breaker/coil location?
> 
> :newbie:



Look closely at this picture up in the left upper corner of the breaker plate and you can see where I made a mark on the breaker plate and the case with a small chisel. 

This way you have marks to line it back up to the factory timing when putting it back together.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> Look closely at this picture up in the left upper corner of the breaker plate and you can see where I made a mark on the breaker plate and the case with a small chisel.
> 
> This way you have marks to line it back up to the factory timing when putting it back together.



DARN IT

I figured I screwed up...


----------



## turtle561

*2100 cd ?*


















can't find any i.d. nos. on this, i think it may be a 2100CD but what year? looks like something fell on it. i have the recoil, muffler and clutch. it runs with lots of compression,have to clamp it to the ground with a board to pull on it. 
the only no. i can see is on the flywheel side of the cylinder base, it is 833/2A. did this have a chain brake? what have i got here? this is the first old husky i've come across. thanks


----------



## parrisw

turtle561 said:


> can't find any i.d. nos. on this, i think it may be a 2100CD but what year? looks like something fell on it. i have the recoil, muffler and clutch. it runs with lots of compression,have to clamp it to the ground with a board to pull on it.
> the only no. i can see is on the flywheel side of the cylinder base, it is 833/2A. did this have a chain brake? what have i got here? this is the first old husky i've come across. thanks



Looks like a 2100 or 2101 with the aux oiler on it.


----------



## Meadow Beaver

BuddhaKat said:


> Playing with the 576 XP.



Was this pic taken in Nevada? I thought there were no trees in Nevada? :monkey:


----------



## skydiver

*husky 61*

im new to the husky.is a 61 2 or 4 stroke? thanks alot.


----------



## sunfish

turtle561 said:


> just for laughs, somthing i cooked up to mess with the local mullet heads. it needs a husky starter to complete it, haven't found one yet.donations accepted:biggrinbounce2:



Thats' real good! But might hurt the brian of a mullet head


----------



## sunfish

skydiver said:


> im new to the husky.is a 61 2 or 4 stroke? thanks alot.



They all be two stroke...For now anyway.


----------



## SawTroll

sunfish said:


> They all be two stroke...For now anyway.



Yes, surely - another brand made some 4-stroke ones some years ago, but soon abandoned the idea....


----------



## briantutt

sunfish said:


> Thats' real good! But might hurt the brian of a mullet head



Who's callin me a mullet head?


----------



## turtle561

a dyslexic sunfish! were talkin' fish BRAINs here lol


----------



## briantutt

turtle561 said:


> a dyslexic sunfish! were talkin' fish BRAINs here lol



I know, It was just too much of a coincidence to pass up! 

Engineers in Shanghai always screw my name up and write "hi Brain"...


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> Look closely at this picture up in the left upper corner of the breaker plate and you can see where I made a mark on the breaker plate and the case with a small chisel.
> 
> This way you have marks to line it back up to the factory timing when putting it back together.



Thanks for the idea Mark. I examined everything closely and realized I can see a witness from the slots in the breaker plate on the case. I put it back in, lined it up and then made a mark with an awl just like yours.

Thanks again


----------



## J.Walker

Great saw! Light, fast and easy to handle.
Love those XP saws!


http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac273/jwalken/sept10011.jpg



.


----------



## BuddhaKat

Meadow Beaver said:


> Was this pic taken in Nevada? I thought there were no trees in Nevada? :monkey:


LOL. The tree was in CA and my fat ass was in NV.

Actually, that pic was taken up at Antelope Lake in CA. Huge fire went through there a few years ago.


----------



## briantutt

*Husqvarna 65 Oiler Cover*

Does anyone have one of these laying around? Notice the nice crack in this one.







There is a NOS one on this one particular big website but I can't see paying that much for it. As near as I can tell this is about the last part that I need to get my 65 back together except the rear plastic handle. I am currently manufacturing a tool to split the case and then it's clean up and rebuild time!


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> Does anyone have one of these laying around? Notice the nice crack in this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a NOS one on this one particular big website but I can't see paying that much for it. As near as I can tell this is about the last part that I need to get my 65 back together except the rear plastic handle. I am currently manufacturing a tool to split the case and then it's clean up and rebuild time!



Try to get it welded.


----------



## briantutt

parrisw said:


> Try to get it welded.



Yeah, I thought of that as a second scenario. I successfully welded the fuel tank with a soldering gun on my 362XP after the "unfortunate Bobcat incident" that started my whole AS "cult addiction" as my wife calls it.

Does this cover do anything except keep the dirt and crap away from the oiler gear and crank seal? There wasn't a gasket on it but there sure was a bunch of oil and sawdust behind it which I am assuming was not supposed to be there...


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> Yeah, I thought of that as a second scenario. I successfully welded the fuel tank with a soldering gun on my 362XP after the "unfortunate Bobcat incident" that started my whole AS "cult addiction" as my wife calls it.
> 
> Does this cover do anything except keep the dirt and crap away from the oiler gear and crank seal? There wasn't a gasket on it but there sure was a bunch of oil and sawdust behind it which I am assuming was not supposed to be there...



Ok, I don't know, but is it metal or plastic?


----------



## briantutt

parrisw said:


> Ok, I don't know, but is it metal or plastic?



It's thin orange plastic, has a thin metal disk molded right into where the crank goes through. There is a seal that goes up against it called a V-seal, that was completely shot on mine. The crap behind the cover probably came in there more than anywhere else. Not sure where all the oil came from unless the oiler leaks maybe?


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> It's thin orange plastic, has a thin metal disk molded right into where the crank goes through. There is a seal that goes up against it called a V-seal, that was completely shot on mine. The crap behind the cover probably came in there more than anywhere else. Not sure where all the oil came from unless the oiler leaks maybe?



Can you sand it and glue it? Or find someone with a plastic welder.


----------



## briantutt

parrisw said:


> Can you sand it and glue it? Or find someone with a plastic welder.



A plastic welder would be great. I don't know anyone who has one. I looked into them to fix the gas tank on my Husqvarna zero turn but ended up using an RV tank patch kit for that. Maybe I will just try the soldering gun on this piece. If it's not cross linked it should melt and fuse...


----------



## ric5141

briantutt said:


> A plastic welder would be great. I don't know anyone who has one. I looked into them to fix the gas tank on my Husqvarna zero turn but ended up using an RV tank patch kit for that. Maybe I will just try the soldering gun on this piece. If it's not cross linked it should melt and fuse...



I've fixed plastic headlight buckets on Motorcycles using a fiber glass repair kit. It worked well.


----------



## briantutt

*How do I get the crank out?*

If you make one of these:






You get this:






and this:






But how do you get the crank out of the flywheel side? I tried to tap on it with a hammer but no luck...


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> A plastic welder would be great. I don't know anyone who has one. I looked into them to fix the gas tank on my Husqvarna zero turn but ended up using an RV tank patch kit for that. Maybe I will just try the soldering gun on this piece. If it's not cross linked it should melt and fuse...



Go to an autobody repair shop, they usually have them, they may do a quick little job like that.



briantutt said:


> If you make one of these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But how do you get the crank out of the flywheel side? I tried to tap on it with a hammer but no luck...



I heat the case around the bearing then tap the end of the crank, or put it in a press.


----------



## briantutt

parrisw said:


> Go to an autobody repair shop, they usually have them, they may do a quick little job like that.
> 
> I heat the case around the bearing then tap the end of the crank, or put it in a press.



Maybe I can press it out using an arbor press?

Thanks for the pointer on a plastic welder...


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> Maybe I can press it out using an arbor press?
> 
> Thanks for the pointer on a plastic welder...



Yup arbor press would work, use a 2x4 to support the case, make a cutout of a half circle in the 2x4 for the crank bells to fit in.


----------



## briantutt

parrisw said:


> Yup arbor press would work, use a 2x4 to support the case, make a cutout of a half circle in the 2x4 for the crank bells to fit in.



I do appreciate your patience with my questions and lack of experience.

Thank you


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> I do appreciate your patience with my questions and lack of experience.
> 
> Thank you



Its not a problem, really! I'm glad to help out.


----------



## briantutt

*Bearing s and seals*

After I press the crank out what is the best way to get the seals out. I also think I should replace the bearings too since I'm in here. They don't feel right anyway. I am assuming I can press the bearings out on the arbor as well and bearings should be easy to find I would think.

Getting closer to the rebuild now!


----------



## Modifiedmark

parrisw said:


> Go to an autobody repair shop, they usually have them, they may do a quick little job like that.
> 
> 
> 
> I heat the case around the bearing then tap the end of the crank, or put it in a press.



Yep, I just warm it up around the brg from the outside with a propane torch, and they just fall out. 

When reinstalling, I put the fw side brg on the crank and then warm the case up again with the torch and then slip the crank and all in that side. I then warm the PTO side of the case up and slip that brg in that side. I then start the crank in the pto side brg and use a spacer and washers with the clutch to pull the crank into that PTO side brg. Piece of cake.


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> After I press the crank out what is the best way to get the seals out. I also think I should replace the bearings too since I'm in here. They don't feel right anyway. I am assuming I can press the bearings out on the arbor as well and bearings should be easy to find I would think.
> 
> Getting closer to the rebuild now!



6202-C3 brgs if I remember right. You will proably need a brg seperator to remove the old ones from the crank.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> 6202-C3 brgs if I remember right. You will proably need a brg seperator to remove the old ones from the crank.



Yes, bearings say 6202 on them. The PTO side bearing stayed in the case when I split it.

What is the best way to get the oil seal out?

Why does parrisw's avatar say banned?


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> Why does parrisw's avatar say banned?



Because I'm a BAD BAD BOY!! ha ha ha. Was wondering when someone would ask!


----------



## briantutt

parrisw said:


> Because I'm a BAD BAD BOY!! ha ha ha. Was wondering when someone would ask!



oh good, I thought for a minute you actually were banned, thus no more pointers...


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> oh good, I thought for a minute you actually were banned, thus no more pointers...



ha ha. No, just my lame sense of humor.


----------



## briantutt

briantutt said:


> Yes, bearings say 6202 on them. The PTO side bearing stayed in the case when I split it.
> 
> What is the best way to get the oil seal out?



oke:


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> oke:



OH ha ha. Forgot about that part. Well, not sure how they are on the 65, but with the case apart cant you just tap them out from the inside? When the saw is together I just pry them out with a small screwdriver.


----------



## briantutt

parrisw said:


> OH ha ha. Forgot about that part. Well, not sure how they are on the 65, but with the case apart cant you just tap them out from the inside? When the saw is together I just pry them out with a small screwdriver.



okay, got it. Thanks and good night


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> okay, got it. Thanks and good night



G'night.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> 6202-C3 brgs if I remember right. You will proably need a brg seperator to remove the old ones from the crank.



Mark you were right. I pressed the crank out of the PTO side and the bearing stayed on the crank. I have a universal puller with three legs. Will that work to put the three lips on the bearing and pull it off the crank?

And when you say 6202-C3 do you mean 6202 is the size and C3 is short ber ABEC-3 for tolerances? I found ABEC-1 bearings right away but they are looser if I recall the ABEC scale...


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> Mark you were right. I pressed the crank out of the PTO side and the bearing stayed on the crank. I have a universal puller with three legs. Will that work to put the three lips on the bearing and pull it off the crank?
> 
> And when you say 6202-C3 do you mean 6202 is the size and C3 is short ber ABEC-3 for tolerances? I found ABEC-1 bearings right away but they are looser if I recall the ABEC scale...



If your puller legs will fit under the brg all the way around then go ahead, but I don't think they will. 

Yes the c3 brgs are supposed to be the best ones. I found them cheap on ebay.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> If your puller legs will fit under the brg all the way around then go ahead, but I don't think they will.



You're right, they won't. There is only about 30 thousandths between the counter weight and the bearing. Guess I will have to find a separator.







I pried and tapped out all the seals and bearings from the case halves then cleaned them up with Simple Green (holy :censored: does that stuff work good). The inside of the fuel and oil reservoir look nasty with loose paint and some sort of glue or something. Would it be a bad thing to bead blast the loose stuff out of there?


----------



## Modifiedmark

Brian, I have a cheap small seperator from harbor freight I think and I ground down the inner lips real thin with a grinder for taking those brgs off. Most the time just bolting down the seperator will get those brgs moving. 

The inside of my tank looked quite like that but not quite as bad. I used a little cup brush on a dremel to clean it all up.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> Brian, I have a cheap small seperator from harbor freight I think and I ground down the inner lips real thin with a grinder for taking those brgs off. Most the time just bolting down the seperator will get those brgs moving.
> 
> The inside of my tank looked quite like that but not quite as bad. I used a little cup brush on a dremel to clean it all up.



I tried my cup brush and dremel, doesn't even phase it!

My father thinks if I heat up the bearing real fast with the propane/oxy torch it might just fall right off the crank. He also thought if I just tap between the weight and the bearing with a chisel it might move over? 

thoughts?


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> I tried my cup brush and dremel, doesn't even phase it!
> 
> My father thinks if I heat up the bearing real fast with the propane/oxy torch it might just fall right off the crank. He also thought if I just tap between the weight and the bearing with a chisel it might move over?
> 
> thoughts?



Maybe 2 really small chisels right across from each other. There not that tight a press fit. Just be carefull. I tap em back on with a socket, but make sure you hold the near side crank counter weight with your off hand.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> Yes the c3 brgs are supposed to be the best ones.* I found them cheap on ebay*.



Like this? 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160405281675&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Most of the ones on Ebay are sealed these look right and are C3. This listing claims they are right for higher temps and hi speeds because of the C3 tolerances. The pic certainly looks very similar.


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> Like this?
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160405281675&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
> 
> Most of the ones on Ebay are sealed these look right and are C3. This listing claims they are right for higher temps and hi speeds because of the C3 tolerances. The pic certainly looks very similar.



I just buy the viton sealed ones and pluck the seals out. In fact I think I left the seal on the outside, just for a little extra sealing.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> I just buy the viton sealed ones and pluck the seals out. In fact I think I left the seal on the outside, just for a little extra sealing.



I just got two 6202 C3 bearings for less than $4 total, free shipping


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> I just got two 6202 C3 bearings for less than $4 total, free shipping



Unreal aint it? 

I can get them from Motion industries as well but they never seem to stock them local so they have to order from Chicago and then want me to pay to have them shipped to them! At least if you want them within a week or two. 

They will drop ship them to the house at least, but a couple brgs still end up costing too much.


----------



## parrisw

Just thought I'd post up a saw that I have, I don't hear much about these on here. I know it doesn't say XP on it, but its a mag case, air injection, adjustable oiler, all the stuff you'd expect on a pro saw.


----------



## pioneerguy600

parrisw said:


> Just thought I'd post up a saw that I have, I don't hear much about these on here. I know it doesn't say XP on it, but its a mag case, air injection, adjustable oiler, all the stuff you'd expect on a pro saw.



Lots of them 257`s used down this way, in smaller wood like we have here . They are plenty good saws for firewooding and felling pulp.

Pioneerguy600


----------



## parrisw

pioneerguy600 said:


> Lots of them 257`s used down this way, in smaller wood like we have here . They are plenty good saws for firewooding and felling pulp.
> 
> Pioneerguy600



Cool, thanks for the info.


----------



## briantutt

*Husky 257*

Looks good to me. BIL has one just like it, put up alot of firewood with it that's for sure.


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> Looks good to me. BIL has one just like it, put up alot of firewood with it that's for sure.



Ya, seems like a good saw. Although I've never used it.


----------



## Gypo Logger

Speaking of Husky I used my 154/254 that I rebuilt to cut down and buck up 35 5-6" poplars into 20" lengths.
Wow! What a fast lil saw and feels great in your hands.
I swear the woman I did the job for was having an orgasm just watching lol

The job took me 1hr 45 minutes, 3 beers and three cigarettes and 2 tanks of gas. I hit a nail but amazingly the 72LG hardly felt it and was back to normal after the "90 second tickle".
John


----------



## parrisw

Yukonsawman said:


> Speaking of Husky I used my 154/254 that I rebuilt to cut down and buck up 35 5-6" poplars into 20" lengths.
> Wow! What a fast lil saw and feels great in your hands.
> I swear the woman I did the job for was having an orgasm just watching lol
> 
> The job took me 1hr 45 minutes, 3 beers and three cigarettes and 2 tanks of gas. I hit a nail but amazingly the 72LG hardly felt it and was back to normal after the "90 second tickle".
> John



You sure it didn't go something like this John? I'll cut and past your words. 



> I swear the woman I did the job for was having an orgasm just watching lol
> 
> woman hardly felt it and was back to normal after the "90 second tickle".


----------



## Gypo Logger

parrisw said:


> You sure it didn't go something like this John? I'll cut and past your words.



Lol, she said she was so broke she was thinking of becoming a hooker! lol
Do you think she was hitting on me? Or just trying to get out of paying by doing the "bait and switch?" Lol 
John


----------



## parrisw

Yukonsawman said:


> Lol, she said she was so broke she was thinking of becoming a hooker! lol
> Do you think she was hitting on me? Or just trying to get out of paying by doing the "bait and switch?" Lol
> John



My guess, is she didn't want to pay!!


----------



## Cedarkerf

I think women are just excited to see manley men doing manley work with a world so full of pretty boy desk jockeys


----------



## Gypo Logger

parrisw said:


> My guess, is she didn't want to pay!!


 Lol, she is a native woman and as everyone knows it was the natives that put the original curse upon me which is well nigh impossible for me to hand it back.
Regardless, it's been a good slice.
Shirley was directing me to stems she wanted dumped that were blocking her view to Spruce Mtn.
Anyway, we were standing along the road and she saw a miner she wanted to dig gold for her driving down the road. Shirley ran after him and I followed running behind wielding the 154 in the air behind her. The miner has since been spreading rumours, cause he saw me in his rear view mirror. Shirley is none the wiser. Lol
Gypo


----------



## parrisw

Yukonsawman said:


> Lol, she is a native woman and as everyone knows it was the natives that put the original curse upon me which is well nigh impossible for me to hand it back.
> Regardless, it's been a good slice.
> Shirley was directing me to stems she wanted dumped that were blocking her view to Spruce Mtn.
> Anyway, we were standing along the road and she saw a miner she wanted to dig gold for her driving down the road. Shirley ran after him and I followed running behind wielding the 154 in the air behind her. The miner has since been spreading rumours, cause he saw me in his rear view mirror. Shirley is none the wiser. Lol
> Gypo



ha ha ha ha. You got some interesting stories!


----------



## Gypo Logger

Cedarkerf said:


> I think women are just excited to see manley men doing manley work with a world so full of pretty boy desk jockeys


 They seem to get off on it which makes us seem to work faster. It's more fun that way. It's their recommendation that puts the bacon on the table. I think woman are better customers than men sometimes. Men are good customers when you can tell them nicely why their saws won't cut. They are all ears.
John


----------



## Gypo Logger

parrisw said:


> ha ha ha ha. You got some interesting stories!


 Shirley's actually a good customer and is the only living survivor from Discovery City on Spruce Creek. She owes me 240 bucks and wanted to trade me a severely rocked out Muckaluck homeowner saw. I just told her, "if it was meant to be rode, it would come with a saddle." lol
Regardless, I'm her woodman. Lol
John


----------



## briantutt

*65*

I am nearing the rebuild phase of my 65. As such I am still acquiring a few odds and ends for it. I have a sprocket question. The saw has a very worn 7 tooth 3/8 rim on it. When I redid my Jonsereds 70E (similar era and size I believe) they guys on Jred thread said to go with an 8 tooth 3/8 setup.

Any advice on the Husky 65, 7 or 8 ?


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> I am nearing the rebuild phase of my 65. As such I am still acquiring a few odds and ends for it. I have a sprocket question. The saw has a very worn 7 tooth 3/8 rim on it. When I redid my Jonsereds 70E (similar era and size I believe) they guys on Jred thread said to go with an 8 tooth 3/8 setup.
> 
> Any advice on the Husky 65, 7 or 8 ?



7 tooth and forget about it.


----------



## MacLaren

Husky kicks!! :greenchainsaw:


----------



## fishercat

*i disagree!*



parrisw said:


> My guess, is she didn't want to pay!!



I DO think she wanted to PAY!


----------



## little possum

Here is part of a Husky. 





A Jred 670 with 272 top end, carb, maybe the muffler. And clutch cover and recoil.

A great runner. Has 150#s and the ring isnt seated


----------



## billmartin

parrisw said:


> Just thought I'd post up a saw that I have, I don't hear much about these on here. I know it doesn't say XP on it, but its a mag case, air injection, adjustable oiler, all the stuff you'd expect on a pro saw.



LOL That's the saw (not the same one) that brought me here(AS). That one is nicer than mine. Mine has a slight rub mark on top of the filter cover from sitting in a case. First saw I bought (used dad's 024 for years) And first I ever took a grinder to. 

Might hate me for it, but I like it better than my 262 for how it feels/handles while cutting. Feels lighter to me, but I think they weigh the same or close? 

As Saw DR. put it they are a sleeper. Mine pulls a 20" full comp 3'8 chisel without a problem. After opening the exh/int to 2mm from piston skirt. 

Open transfers with not much room for improvement that my:newbie: eyes could see but all pro const thru out

Bill


----------



## parrisw

billmartin said:


> LOL That's the saw (not the same one) that brought me here(AS). That one is nicer than mine. Mine has a slight rub mark on top of the filter cover from sitting in a case. First saw I bought (used dad's 024 for years) And first I ever took a grinder to.
> 
> Might hate me for it, but I like it better than my 262 for how it feels/handles while cutting. Feels lighter to me, but I think they weigh the same or close?
> 
> As Saw DR. put it they are a sleeper. Mine pulls a 20" full comp 3'8 chisel without a problem. After opening the exh/int to 2mm from piston skirt.
> 
> Open transfers with not much room for improvement that my:newbie: eyes could see but all pro const thru out
> 
> Bill



Cool stuff. Ya I like the feel of the saw. Have yet to use it.


----------



## SawTroll

billmartin said:


> ....Might hate me for it, but I like it better than my 262 for how it feels/handles while cutting. Feels lighter to me, but I think they weigh the same or close?
> .....



There should be about a .4 - .5 lbs difference.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> When reinstalling, I put the fw side brg on the crank and then warm the case up again with the torch and then slip the crank and all in that side. I then warm the PTO side of the case up and slip that brg in that side. I then start the crank in the pto side brg and use a spacer and washers with the clutch to pull the crank into that PTO side brg. Piece of cake.



So if I follow the above method everything will be properly centered for the cylinder right?

How do you keep from burning the paint doing this?


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> So if I follow the above method everything will be properly centered for the cylinder right?
> 
> How do you keep from burning the paint doing this?



Yep you should be all good that way. 

Paint? thats all covered anyway and you never see it. But, the factory stuff is tough, barely discolored it. I warm them from the inside and look at these pictures, and see for yourself.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> Yep you should be all good that way.
> 
> Paint? thats all covered anyway and you never see it. But, the factory stuff is tough, barely discolored it. I warm them from the inside and look at these pictures, and see for yourself.



You have a really bad case of CAD...you just happen to have the same saw in the same state for pictures  that is sick...or even worse you catalog your saw pictures so well that you can instantly retrieve them...

Mark, you need help...


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> You have a really bad case of CAD...you just happen to have the same saw in the same state for pictures  that is sick...or even worse you catalog your saw pictures so well that you can instantly retrieve them...
> 
> Mark, you need help...



No my saw is not in that same state, mine is up and running. I just took those pictures for a thread I did when I rebuilt it! 

I sometimes return to those pictures to help me remember things as I have CRS most the time anymore. 

And help? No mines up and running, I don't need any help with it. LOL


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> No my saw is not in that same state, mine is up and running. I just took those pictures for a thread I did when I rebuilt it!
> 
> I sometimes return to those pictures to help me remember things as I have CRS most the time anymore.
> 
> And help? No mines up and running, I don't need any help with it. LOL



 I figured, thanks for getting the sarcasm 

where is the thread on the rebuild?


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


>



Mark

It looks like you used something on the gasket between the case halves? In the kit I got it just looks like thin paper and old one just lifted right off nice and neat all in one piece. Are my eyes playing tricks on me or did you put something one that gasket before bolting the case together?

Also, I measured all of the case bolts torque to tighten at 25-50 inch lbs when I removed them which in theory means they probably got torqued to roughly 60 in-lbs when originally installed. Sound right?

Brian


----------



## UK heartwood

8 nm = 70.8 lb/in


----------



## briantutt

UK heartwood said:


> 8 nm = 70.8 lb/in



Is this from a service manual or something?


----------



## steven1955

briantutt said:


> Is this from a service manual or something?



You multiply:

Nm (Newton meter) times 8.85075 to get in-lb (inch pounds) of torque.

Nm (Newton meter) times 0.737561 to get ft-lb (foot pounds) of torque.


----------



## Winn R

I just put the double rings in this one today!!


----------



## briantutt

steven1955 said:


> You multiply:
> 
> Nm (Newton meter) times 8.85075 to get in-lb (inch pounds) of torque.
> 
> Nm (Newton meter) times 0.737561 to get ft-lb (foot pounds) of torque.



I meant is 8Nm the specified torque for the bolts in question...


----------



## UK heartwood

Yes 8nm is from the service manual if you need a copy PM me and I can email you one.


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> Mark
> 
> It looks like you used something on the gasket between the case halves? In the kit I got it just looks like thin paper and old one just lifted right off nice and neat all in one piece. Are my eyes playing tricks on me or did you put something one that gasket before bolting the case together?
> 
> Also, I measured all of the case bolts torque to tighten at 25-50 inch lbs when I removed them which in theory means they probably got torqued to roughly 60 in-lbs when originally installed. Sound right?
> 
> Brian



Brian, I used Permatex High Tack on both sides of the crankcase gasket. Helps hold it in place when installing and is gas resistent when cured. 

As far as torque goes, I just tighten them down. Not that big a deal.


----------



## briantutt

Winn R said:


> I just put the double rings in this one today!!



looks good!


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> Brian, I used Permatex High Tack on both sides of the crankcase gasket. Helps hold it in place when installing and is gas resistent when cured.
> 
> As far as torque goes, I just tighten them down. Not that big a deal.



:bang: stupid rep thing still won't let me rep you, been handing it out like candy trying take the lock off repping you for all the help. :bang:


----------



## UK heartwood

Before I get a load of messages I can no longer access the 65L & 77L service manuals as they have been lost with my old hard drive.If anyone has a copy I would like to complete the set again.

I agree totaly with Mark dont get to worried about torque just tighten sensibly and you will be OK.After nearly 30 years working on saws for a living I cant remember many of the mechanics in the workshop reaching for a torque wrench
for much at all.

The old saying "Tight is Tight & to Tight is f####d.


----------



## briantutt

UK heartwood said:


> Before I get a load of messages I can no longer access the 65L & 77L service manuals as they have been lost with my old hard drive.If anyone has a copy I would like to complete the set again.
> 
> I agree totaly with Mark dont get to worried about torque just tighten sensibly and you will be OK.After nearly 30 years working on saws for a living I cant remember many of the mechanics in the workshop reaching for a torque wrench
> for much at all.
> 
> The old saying "Tight is Tight & to Tight is f####d.



My German counterparts say "a good engineering feel" when pressed for a torque value!


----------



## 50:1

Love my 372XP. Paid 250 at a pawn shop last year. Whatta a bargain...it's a 2007 model. Just bought a new 346XP a couple months ago and I'm astounded by the speed, agility and power of this pup. I've always loved Stihl, and still do, but I'm very disappointed at their lack of use of decompression valves, something Husky uses liberally, to our benefit. Gotta love a Husky! But I still miss my 441 and wish I had another one!


----------



## briantutt

Pic assist!


----------



## briantutt

*Holy Crap!*

Dad bought a chain grinder... I sharpened my 20" 362XP chain with it and went to cut firewood. This thing is a beast now with a properly sharpened chain. I forgot how wicked this saw is when everything is setup right.


----------



## briantutt

*Saws got a workout*

Here's one of the Husky 362XP victims last weekend...


----------



## briantutt

Winn R said:


> I just put the double rings in this one today!!



Someone has a double ring piston on Ebay that they say is for a 65? Mine only has one


----------



## PLMCRZY

So hows a ported husky 55 stack up? Rebuilding one and wanting to know whether to port it or not.


----------



## little possum

Pizza guy wanted to do some advertising shots at the saw demo the other day.


----------



## briantutt

*Pizza Man*

Are those ANSI safety shoes?


----------



## little possum

Yep Anchovie Approved


----------



## robfromaz1977

Sold my 266's so I could buy another saw. This is what I ended up with.


----------



## robfromaz1977

A couple more close up pics. I think the saw is in excellent shape for its age.


----------



## Winn R

briantutt said:


> Someone has a double ring piston on Ebay that they say is for a 65? Mine only has one



Just checked the 65 here. It's a single ring also.

Funny thing though, I found another husqvarna from Yugoslavia.

A 266. Any body seen these?


----------



## briantutt

Winn R said:


> Just checked the 65 here. It's a single ring also.
> 
> Funny thing though, I found another husqvarna from Yugoslavia.
> 
> A 266. Any body seen these?



pics please!


----------



## SawTroll

Winn R said:


> Just checked the 65 here. It's a single ring also.
> 
> Funny thing though, I found another husqvarna from Yugoslavia.
> 
> A 266. Any body seen these?



Yugo made Huskys were one of the infamous Olof Palmes projects - it usually involved models that were no longer made in Sweden.


----------



## CGC4200

*55*

I drained stale gas out of mine earlier and refueled, didn't even have to prime it
after sitting for months. If I need a bigger saw, going to have to use a 
Poulan, 4200 or 5400.


----------



## Winn R

SawTroll said:


> Yugo made Huskys were one of the infamous Olof Palmes projects - it usually involved models that were no longer made in Sweden.



The marriage of Marshall Tito and the Swedomatic!!

This one didn't have the id plate, had the funny 2 piece ignition of the 266. And the proud words "Made in Yugoslavia".


----------



## ric5141

robfromaz1977 said:


> A couple more close up pics. I think the saw is in excellent shape for its age.



I just put one of these together it is a great saw.....I love my 371 XP

:biggrinbounce2:


----------



## mweba

Thought you guys might get a kick out of this. Customer brings his clean 65 in the other day. Carrying the saw in one hand and a box in the other. Says he purchased the saw approx 28 years ago. Couple weeks after buying it the case starts to leak oil. He contacted Husqvarna and they sent him a new case. Shortly after that he quit burning wood. Fast forward 28 years and he now wants to burn wood again.


----------



## little possum

So bout a brand new 65 :jawdrop: Looks nice


----------



## briantutt

mweba said:


> Thought you guys might get a kick out of this. Customer brings his clean 65 in the other day. Carrying the saw in one hand and a box in the other. Says he purchased the saw approx 28 years ago. Couple weeks after buying it the case starts to leak oil. He contacted Husqvarna and they sent him a new case. Shortly after that he quit burning wood. Fast forward 28 years and he now wants to burn wood again.



That's not right 

I have a garage sale special I have been collecting old parts to get it back up and running for half a year. Can I have the case halves? :jester:

Nice find, just goes to show there are a lot of NOS parts around that nobody knows about


----------



## mweba

briantutt said:


> That's not right
> 
> I have a garage sale special I have been collecting old parts to get it back up and running for half a year. Can I have the case halves? :jester:
> 
> Nice find, just goes to show there are a lot of NOS parts around that nobody knows about



Never know what is in someones basement. Unfortunately, he wants it fixed, no chance of keeping this one. Finding a gasket set on the other hand....


----------



## briantutt

mweba said:


> Never know what is in someones basement. Unfortunately, he wants it fixed, no chance of keeping this one. Finding a gasket set on the other hand....



Go to ebay and search i-needa-margarita then view their listed gasket sets. If one isn't listed then pick any of them and pick ask a question. That's where I got mine


----------



## briantutt

*65 Bow*

Hey, who's is this? Put it on that big auction site but never showed it to us?


----------



## briantutt

mweba said:


> Never know what is in someones basement. Unfortunately, he wants it fixed, no chance of keeping this one. Finding a gasket set on the other hand....



http://cgi.ebay.com/Husqvarna-65L-C...614?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519241fb06


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> Brian, I used Permatex High Tack on both sides of the crankcase gasket. Helps hold it in place when installing and is gas resistent when cured.
> 
> As far as torque goes, I just tighten them down. Not that big a deal.



Mark, do you think that putting my 65 back together with the old crappy paint blasted out will be OK bare like that on the inside? They don't seem to paint every nook and cranny on the inside so it makes me think that inside the tank it should be OK to be bare magnesium...

If it is I am getting Permatex high tack on the way home and starting in on it.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> When reinstalling, I put the fw side brg on the crank and then warm the case up again with the torch and then slip the crank and all in that side. I then warm the PTO side of the case up and slip that brg in that side. I then start the crank in the pto side brg and use a spacer and washers with the clutch to pull the crank into that PTO side brg. Piece of cake.



Mark, I tried to do this on the PTO side but the bearing didn't fall in and the paint is starting to bubble up. Do I need to push on the bearing or tap it or something at the same time? I have to other case halves with better paint so I may try it again on that half but I will wait for your comment on the technique.


----------



## Signoflife

*My Husky's*

Starting from the top:

394XP - 36"
357XP - 18"
50 - 16"

All (3) were used on this rather large maple.

The little Redmax was lonely sittin on the sidelines so I threw it in as well.


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> Mark, I tried to do this on the PTO side but the bearing didn't fall in and the paint is starting to bubble up. Do I need to push on the bearing or tap it or something at the same time? I have to other case halves with better paint so I may try it again on that half but I will wait for your comment on the technique.



If it didnt fall in then you didn't have it warm enough. If your worried about that paint, I wouldnt, you wont see it after the oiler cover is on anyway. 

You can press that brg in the case as well without heating it up so much if you have the means to do so. A big vise and the right size socket can do it if your carefull. 

How did the flywheel side go? Make sure you get that case side warm enough the first time on it. 

As far as the bare mag in the fuel tank, what else can you do? I think there just fine like that as some saws seemed to be that way stock. 

I wouldn't leave ethanol laced pump gas lay in it for extended periods of time though.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> If it didnt fall in then you didn't have it warm enough. If your worried about that paint, I wouldnt, you wont see it after the oiler cover is on anyway.
> 
> You can press that brg in the case as well without heating it up so much if you have the means to do so. A big vise and the right size socket can do it if your carefull.
> 
> How did the flywheel side go? Make sure you get that case side warm enough the first time on it.
> 
> As far as the bare mag in the fuel tank, what else can you do? I think there just fine like that as some saws seemed to be that way stock.
> 
> I wouldn't leave ethanol laced pump gas lay in it for extended periods of time though.



I will arbor press that one in then. I haven't tried the flywheel side yet because I have to get it on the crank first. I was only worried about the paint because I thought it might flake off later and get in the points or something but maybe that can't happen.

I will do my best to stay away from the Ethanol until Nobama makes it impossible opcorn:

Thanks again.


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> I will arbor press that one in then. I haven't tried the flywheel side yet because I have to get it on the crank first. I was only worried about the paint because I thought it might flake off later and get in the points or something but maybe that can't happen.
> 
> I will do my best to stay away from the Ethanol until Nobama makes it impossible opcorn:
> 
> Thanks again.



The brgs fit on the crank pretty easy, I just hold the near side couterweight in my hand, start the brg on the crank and then tap it on with a small hammer and the right sized deep socket or piece of tubing.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> The brgs fit on the crank pretty easy, I just hold the near side couterweight in my hand, start the brg on the crank and then tap it on with a small hammer and the right sized deep socket or piece of tubing.



I think I am missing something here. I managed to move the old bearing over on the flywheel side but there is no way it is going to clear the oblong lobe thing that the points must operate off of. Does that lobe come off somehow?


----------



## briantutt

briantutt said:


> I think I am missing something here. I managed to move the old bearing over on the flywheel side but there is no way it is going to clear the oblong lobe thing that the points must operate off of. Does that lobe come off somehow?



Bearing separator came today. Old bearing is off, had to "start" the cam off with the bearing and puller but it did slip right off once it moved a bit. Reverse tear down starts tomorrow!

Thanks everyone for the help. :rockn:


----------



## briantutt

*Darn it!*


----------



## briantutt

Someone must have a new Husky pic or something to post....opcorn:

If and when the 65 starts and runs after the rebuild how do you "break in" the new ring and piston?


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> Someone must have a new Husky pic or something to post....opcorn:
> 
> If and when the 65 starts and runs after the rebuild how do you "break in" the new ring and piston?



Just run it as usual, but a little on the rich side.


----------



## briantutt

*Gasket Help*






I finally got my new gasket set for the 65. As you can see it too is shrunk and doesn't quite line up right. I feel like I should cut the little strip in the red box and then I believe the circled bolt holes should line up. I tried to gingerly insert bolts through the holes and line things up FIRST this time. The strip in the red box doesn't actually seal anything it's just a bridge probably for cutting and handling integrity.

Opinions? Mark did you have to do this?


----------



## Modifiedmark

Yes cut that if you need to , won't hurt at all.


----------



## Cantdog

That looks like a paper gasket. If so, you can try soaking it between a few sheets of damp/to wet paper towels for a while until it gets it's shape/flexibility back. But keep track and don't soak it to long just until you can work it but not break it.

Always had to do this with all the older Harley knuck/panhead/shovel oil pump gaskets.

Of course you can probably cut that bridge as you said but these kind of gaskets seal best when they are damp and pliable and then get to dry in position.


----------



## briantutt

Thanks Mark and Cantdog. I cut the bridge and I will get some paper towels tomorrow to try the dampening trick.


----------



## Modifiedmark

I had thought about wetting them some but never tried it. I think I would.


----------



## briantutt

Well something's gotta be tried because the new one fits as bad as the old one! I can get the back half on pretty good but then those last few holes on the front lower part are about half a bolt diameter off and I know if I force it I will just manage to rip another one. :bang:

Thanks for the support guys...


----------



## Cantdog

Yeah....you probably shouldn't force it. It'll go a lot better a little damp but even then go slow and easy...let it swell and gently stretch it back out to where the bolt holes line up again. It'll work fine if you are patient. Good luck.


----------



## briantutt

Cantdog said:


> It'll work fine if you are patient.



HMMMM, What does that mean...well I have been working on this thing SLOWLY since early last spring :biggrinbounce2:

or do you mean patient as in "mental patient" which is what I might be if I rip this one...


----------



## Cantdog

LOLOLOL!!!!! I just mean that it took yrs for that gasket to dehydrate to the shape it is now and it won't just pop back into shape instantly with the water treatment. You will have to help it a bit...slowly....gently....patiently...LOL!!


----------



## woodyman

Where are all the Huskys pics.Don't know if I posted this one yet but its my old 44 Rancher I sold to my brother and will be getting back shortly and comes with three different top covers,four air filters,a used oil pump,new piston ring,new gasket kit and case.


----------



## briantutt

woodyman said:


> Where are all the Huskys pics.Don't know if I posted this one yet but its my old 44 Rancher I sold to my brother and will be getting back shortly and comes with three different top covers,four air filters,a used oil pump,new piston ring,new gasket kit and case.



That thing is so clean it looks fake


----------



## TRI955

Here is one of those old, wore out, and out of date Huskys...











well...it _is_ a work in progress.


----------



## Tiger Rag

woodyman said:


> Where are all the Huskys pics.Don't know if I posted this one yet but its my old 44 Rancher I sold to my brother and will be getting back shortly and comes with three different top covers,four air filters,a used oil pump,new piston ring,new gasket kit and case.



Sweet! I love it!


----------



## Tiger Rag

TRI955 said:


> Here is one of those old, wore out, and out of date Huskys...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well...it _is_ a work in progress.



Is that the 288 or another saw? Looking good!


----------



## little possum

Mike, Im sorry but you are mistaken- this is old and wore out
:monkey: for now anyways


----------



## TRI955

Yea, but this is what I started with...


----------



## TRI955

Splitting the cases, looks like there had been some moisture in there...

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid51.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff382%2FTRI955%2F181%2FDSCN3679.mp4">


----------



## TRI955

The 288 is done, well for now. This project is a 281...

Does anybody know where to get the small old 281XP sticker for the starter cover and the XP for the top cover??


----------



## little possum

Yea, that saw was pretty rough. I have a 281 in a box too. 

You ever find that flywheel you needed?
Do you need part numbers?













Thats what I started with- that is the "broken rod" as the tech called it when he told the other guy his saw was toast.


----------



## briantutt

Cantdog said:


> LOLOLOL!!!!! I just mean that it took yrs for that gasket to dehydrate to the shape it is now and it won't just pop back into shape instantly with the water treatment. You will have to help it a bit...slowly....gently....patiently...LOL!!








Oh Yeah! It took about an hour (but only about 5 minutes of labor) to soak, stretch, repeat. But it fits now! The picture is on the "donor" case half but I do believe it is ready for the one with the crank in it. Do you guys think I can put it in place on the high tack with the gasket a bit moistened? It is nice and pliable/stretchy when it's slightly moist. I was thinking I could do this since it will still be many days before I even think about having it together far enough to pour in fuel...


----------



## briantutt

I decided to moisten and stretch some more. Now I have it sort of clamped in place and weighted flat, letting it dry. Maybe it will hold it's shape dry after this...


----------



## briantutt

*Moving along*

FINALLY


----------



## Cantdog

Good Job Brian...Glad you were able to get it back in shape. Usually anything with a paper gasket I will not use a sealer as the moist paper itself is kind of a sealer. Basically any thing that the manufacturer/engineers spec for a thin paper gasket for is machined to very close tolerances and a ply-able paper gasket is enough to allow for any discrepancies. Most modern saws have a much thicker, harder base gasket and I do seal these with a non-hardening sealer such as HY-LOMAR which is my personal all-time favorite.
Good luck on this project....glad I was of some assistance even though I have never worked on this particular saw.


----------



## woodyman

briantutt said:


> That thing is so clean it looks fake


A $10.00 clutch cover and a $10.00 starter cover with no guts will do wonders for a saw:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## woodyman

TRI955 said:


> Splitting the cases, looks like there had been some moisture in there...


Very nice vid,you make it look so easy.I have done everything else except split the case halves.How much for the tool and which saws does it work on?


----------



## TRI955

woodyman said:


> Very nice vid,you make it look so easy.I have done everything else except split the case halves.How much for the tool and which saws does it work on?



I think the tool was around $65...all I have used it on is the older 2xx series saws and a 372. Really I don't see why it wouldn't work on most saws, no matter the brand.


----------



## Scandy14

Where did you purchase it?


----------



## TRI955

Husky dealer, Part # 502 51 61-01


----------



## briantutt

TRI955 said:


> Splitting the cases, looks like there had been some moisture in there...
> 
> <embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid51.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff382%2FTRI955%2F181%2FDSCN3679.mp4">



Cheater, I had to do this...


----------



## briantutt

*Now I feel like I'm gettin somewhere...*

:rockn:






:rockn:


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> :rockn:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :rockn:




Thats looking good so far, good work, you'll have it up and going soon now.


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> :rockn:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :rockn:



Nice work!


----------



## woodyman

Excellent work briantuttI used one of those for a few years,it was my dads old saw.My old logging boss had one to that he liked alot.No anti-vib on them to break and they could take a beating but you sure knew you had used it at the end of the day.


----------



## briantutt

Thanks guys, I know I over post on this saw but I'm a :newbie: at the full tear down so I just keep sharing as I learn/progress.


----------



## parrisw

briantutt said:


> Thanks guys, I know I over post on this saw but I'm a :newbie: at the full tear down so I just keep sharing as I learn/progress.



No way man!! You not a newbie, you got to give yourself a little more credit then that, your doing a great job on it. Can't wait to see it done!


----------



## briantutt

*Tinker Tinker*


























Time to take the Granddaughter to see Santa now...


----------



## TRI955

briantutt said:


> Time to take the Granddaughter to see Santa now...



You should start a thread for this saw, would much easier for people to find for reference material. It is looking really good!!! It deserves it's own thread!!!!


----------



## briantutt

TRI955 said:


> You should start a thread for this saw, would much easier for people to find for reference material. It is looking really good!!! It deserves it's own thread!!!!



alright, alright, I will try to wait until I am done...(but I did start this thread if that counts for anything :biggrinbounce2...


----------



## briantutt

Does anyone know the purpose of this part? It's missing on mine (okay I lost it) but it sort of seems pointless to me...It's just a thin little metal strap between the bolt heads that hold the muffler on.


----------



## Cantdog

Brian, those are to lock the muffler bolts by bending over one of the "ears" to a flat on the bolt head. At least that's what the older Jonsereds used.


----------



## briantutt

Cantdog said:


> Brian, those are to lock the muffler bolts by bending over one of the "ears" to a flat on the bolt head. At least that's what the older Jonsereds used.



That is exactly what my dad said when I mentioned it to him last night.

I guess I will have to make one or use lockwashers.


----------



## firefighter33

Whats a husky 55 worth it need a p/c


----------



## parrisw

firefighter33 said:


> Whats a husky 55 worth it need a p/c



Not much. Me I wouldn't pay anything for it. But I suppose it may be worth a few bucks.


----------



## John R

Here's a picture of my Husky.


----------



## ChrisF

Here's a pic of my new-to-me 242XP, I apologize for the bad cellphone picture, but it is what it is.

Haven't really cut anything with it yet, but did mess around with it for a couple of minutes and liked the feel of it a lot, even though I'm not a massive fan of the slanted Husky handles.


----------



## little possum

Congrats Chris


----------



## briantutt

John R said:


> Here's a picture of my Husky.



:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## Tiger Rag

ChrisF said:


> Here's a pic of my new-to-me 242XP, I apologize for the bad cellphone picture, but it is what it is.
> 
> Haven't really cut anything with it yet, but did mess around with it for a couple of minutes and liked the feel of it a lot, even though I'm not a massive fan of the slanted Husky handles.



Nice saw! I like it!


----------



## briantutt

*It's Alive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!*














Mark...It runs!

I am having a heck of a time getting the carb adjusted (but I pretty much always do).

Does the new P&R make it harder to adjust?


----------



## blsnelling

I had a couple 242XPs and was disappointed with their performance. The way they were talked up, I thought they would be a little stronger than they are. A 346 will run circles around them.


----------



## ChrisF

blsnelling said:


> I had a couple 242XPs and was disappointed with their performance. The way they were talked up, I thought they would be a little stronger than they are. A 346 will run circles around them.


 
Yeah, I'm not expecting miracles here, and I take lots of the things said about them with a grain of salt. But as a light, quick, cheap saw for occasional small stuff, I think it'll do just fine.


----------



## blsnelling

ChrisF said:


> Yeah, I'm not expecting miracles here, and I take lots of the things said about them with a grain of salt. But as a light, quick, cheap saw for occasional small stuff, I think it'll do just fine.


 
I'm not taking cheap shots are your saw either. Let us know what you think of it.


----------



## ChrisF

blsnelling said:


> I'm not taking cheap shots are your saw either. Let us know what you think of it.


 
I know man, I'm merely pointing out that my expectations aren't sky high, but I'm still excited. I'll let you know when I run it after Newyears.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Good Job on the 65 Brian! It looks good. 

The carb shouln't be hard to adjust. Screws should be a little over 1 turn out to start.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> Good Job on the 65 Brian! It looks good.
> 
> The carb shouln't be hard to adjust. Screws should be a little over 1 turn out to start.



:help: 

I started 1-1/4 out on high needle, 1 out on low needle. Right now it idles nice but when I try to smack the throttle to go to high RPMs it bogs down and I have been up to 1-3/4 out on the low speed needle trying to chase scare that bogging away. If I baby the throttle just enough to get the chain spinning then smack the trigger and it will crank right up with the thottle to high RPMs no problem...

:help:


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> :help:
> 
> I started 1-1/4 out on high needle, 1 out on low needle. Right now it idles nice but when I try to smack the throttle to go to high RPMs it bogs down and I have been up to 1-3/4 out on the low speed needle trying to chase scare that bogging away. If I baby the throttle just enough to get the chain spinning then smack the trigger and it will crank right up with the thottle to high RPMs no problem...
> 
> :help:


 
Did you remove the welch plugs in the carb and make sure the 3 little idle holes under it were clear and not plugged?


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> Did you remove the welch plugs in the carb and make sure the 3 little idle holes under it were clear and not plugged?


 
I did remove the welch plugs and made sure I could see through every little hole. However, as carbs go, this one was the nastiest I have seen. All sorts of old white/brown stuff in there. I suppose something could have jiggled loose after all the cleaning...

I might have an extra welch plug from my Jonsereds 70E carb (didn't replace that one)...Should I pull it apart again?


----------



## jbird77

*husky*

i have a 285 cd it has some igniton probs it will run for a min then die stone cold pull it three or 4 times and it will fire back up only for a min ,


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> I did remove the welch plugs and made sure I could see through every little hole. However, as carbs go, this one was the nastiest I have seen. All sorts of old white/brown stuff in there. I suppose something could have jiggled loose after all the cleaning...
> 
> I might have an extra welch plug from my Jonsereds 70E carb (didn't replace that one)...Should I pull it apart again?


 
I don't know, those 3 holes let the fuel out in transition to the throttle plate position and if some were plugged it can do like you described. Does the L screw seem to work and adjust normally when idling?

Maybe if it was that nasty something could have broken loose. Maybe pull the carb all back down and soak it in something for a while?


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> I don't know, those 3 holes let the fuel out in transition to the throttle plate position and if some were plugged it can do like you described. Does the L screw seem to work and adjust normally when idling?
> 
> Maybe if it was that nasty something could have broken loose. Maybe pull the carb all back down and soak it in something for a while?


 
No the low needle doesn't behave right. I can turn it in and make the saw run bad but when I back it out to clear up the "bog" it doesn't seem to do anything once it's about 1 turn out it seems inneffective...


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> No the low needle doesn't behave right. I can turn it in and make the saw run bad but when I back it out to clear up the "bog" it doesn't seem to do anything once it's about 1 turn out it seems inneffective...


 
Sounds like you might have some crap left in it. I think 1 3/4 out would make it so rich it would die.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> Sounds like you might have some crap left in it. I think 1 3/4 out would make it so rich it would die.


 
Yeah, seemed weird...I guess I will pull that carb apart again and go for round two! If this is the only issue I have then I guess that would be okay!


----------



## Cantdog

briantutt said:


> Yeah, seemed weird...I guess I will pull that carb apart again and go for round two! If this is the only issue I have then I guess that would be okay!


 
I agree with Mark.... Quite probably crap under the welch plug on the low side. OOOPPS!!! Sorry..Didn't read the previous page where you said you had the plugs out!! I guess the next question would be, are you sure they are back in tight and not leaking? A little dab of fingernail polish on each one will seal them fine. Sounds like you will have to follow the low speed circuit back from start to finish, must have some crap lodged in there somewhere, limiting flow and not allowing you full adjustment. Also make sure you have the metering lever set correctly. Just a few thoughts... good luck.


----------



## briantutt

Wouldn't fingernail polish come off in gasoline? I think I have an extra big welch plug but I can't pull the little one unless I buy a new kit.


----------



## Cantdog

No fingernail polish is not affected by gas.....the big plug covers the low (idle)and intermediate orifises (on either side of the throttle plate when closed) which is most likely where you problem lies. The little one covers the high speed orifice. If you need plugs PM me I have a bunch left over from many, many carb rebuilds where they were not used. I can send you a set or two if you want (free of course)but mail won't go out until moday... If I can help let me know.


----------



## briantutt

*Carb issues*

Pulled the welch plugs and inspected every bore with a microscope. There is nothing clogging the ports, very clean. The welch plug was inverted (center lower than the edges) formt the way I pressed it in. Do you think the center of the plug could have been limiting flow path to the small hole right on top of throttle plate? Seems unlikely to me since there is pleanty of room under the plig for those tiny holes.

I guess maybe the plug was leaking a little?


----------



## Cantdog

Hey Brian; The plugs went in the mail this afternoon. If you can't find any cloggage under the plugs or other passages then I would guess perhaps your metering lever needs adjusting....should be flush with the carb bottom...or perhaps a vac leak in or around fuel line or fittings. Perhaps there is a misalignment of the gaskets in the impulse corridor...or cloggage at the cyl base gasket. Did you use sealer on this? If so, were you very careful as to not use to much especially around your impulse pick up? Don't mean to be confusing...just throwing out possible problem areas/ideas.

If nothing you do helps...are you certain about your timing setting? Perhaps not advanced quite enough?? Points set correctly??? Points dwell affects timing as well. Usually one degree of point dwell equals one degree of ign. timing so a little bit here and little bit there adds up. When there is not enough advance they will start and idle fine but not spool up very good at all. Again just thinking out loud (virtually!!)


----------



## briantutt

Cantdog said:


> Hey Brian; The plugs went in the mail this afternoon. If you can't find any cloggage under the plugs or other passages then I would guess perhaps your metering lever needs adjusting....should be flush with the carb bottom...or perhaps a vac leak in or around fuel line or fittings. Perhaps there is a misalignment of the gaskets in the impulse corridor...or cloggage at the cyl base gasket. Did you use sealer on this? If so, were you very careful as to not use to much especially around your impulse pick up? Don't mean to be confusing...just throwing out possible problem areas/ideas.
> 
> If nothing you do helps...are you certain about your timing setting? Perhaps not advanced quite enough?? Points set correctly??? Points dwell affects timing as well. Usually one degree of point dwell equals one degree of ign. timing so a little bit here and little bit there adds up. When there is not enough advance they will start and idle fine but not spool up very good at all. Again just thinking out loud (virtually!!)


 
Thank You Robin for the plugs. I really appreciate it.

I used the old metering lever because whenever I try to use a new one I seem to goof it up. I didn't use any sealer on the carb gasket so it shouldn't be a pulse port issue. The timing thing is a very distinct possibility. I took the ignition plate off before marking the location (Mark told/showed me how to do this but I have already had it off  so I only had witness marks in the slotted holes to time it). I didn't touch the points themselves, didn't even take off the plastic cover because everything looked so clean behind the sealed flywheel. 

I will put the new welch plugs in and try again and if not luck then I guess I am headed for the timing...I am sure you and Mark will get me straightened out on this one eventually...


----------



## Cantdog

Your welcome Brian...that's why I save them...(well..and being really, really to cheap to throw anything new away!!)

This new info is good to have. You haven't serviced the points....on a complete tear down and build back??? This may well be part of the reason the saw went unused in the first place!! Some of us old guys are very comfortable with points igns...younger folks....not so much!! Just a matter of timing LOLOL!! you might say!!

I would, regardless of any other work, pull those points, inspect them closely. you will see that there are two distinct layers of metal on both contacts. The outer layer is fairly hard, the inner one very soft. You need to be able to carefully file/grind both contacts flat and even, so they match each other without going through the hard layer. If that is not possible... replace or replace anyway, if you can. But usually they can be filed and put back in service. They must be matched, flat to flat, not tipped or missaligned. Set them to 0.016" on the high side of the cam. This should be done anytime you do this much work to a saw that has a points ign. just (if nothing more) to eliminate potential problems. Good luck.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Brian, Robin just gave you a ton of good info! 

The points servicing is standard procedure when ever you have one that far apart!


----------



## briantutt

*Mark and Robin*

 to the masters!

At least I know how to get the flywheel off now!


----------



## Cantdog

I don't know about masters (well..for me atleast) but knowing how to deal with points simply comes from growing up in a time before there were any forms in "electronic" igns. If I couldn't get that dual point Barracuda running decent...I would NOT get to go out and get in trouble and chase women (well...perhaps girls is more like it back then!!) anyway you get my drift......that's why I called it a "timing issue"LOLOL!!!

Of course this may not be your problem at all...but it is something that Mark and I both agree on...this is something that you always do when going completely through a saw.


----------



## briantutt

*Points*

I have only messed with points on old Scorpion snowmobiles. My dad used to race for their factory racing team and had enough engine parts to repair as many sleds as I could get my hands on (for much the same reason, no car, places to be!). He showed me how sand and set the points on those but that was over 20 years ago. When I get into the points on the 65 I will certainly be consulting him on technique. I do have an extra set from a parts saw so hopefully one will be good.


----------



## Cantdog

Good enough!! Points is points as they say. If you know the ins and outs they are the same. Between the two you may have at least one good set. But if they are burnt and pitted sanding won't be enough...you will have to file/grind the pitts out and match the contacts. Go slow and pay close attention to how much you've taken and how much there is left. The more left when your done the longer the life of that set.


----------



## briantutt

*:bang: STUPID CARB :bang:*

I replaced the welch plugs. Now the stupid thing idles with the low speed idle screw all the way in.:angry2:


----------



## briantutt

*Thread is stalled*

I am stalled out on the "Green Machine" so I am gonna dig for the points tonight on the Husqvarna 65 try to get that one "off" the bench. uttahere2:

Heat wave here tonight at 27F!


----------



## briantutt

*Here goes nothin...*



Cantdog said:


> I would, regardless of any other work, pull those points, inspect them closely. you will see that there are two distinct layers of metal on both contacts. The outer layer is fairly hard, the inner one very soft. You need to be able to carefully file/grind both contacts flat and even, so they match each other without going through the hard layer. If that is not possible... replace or replace anyway, if you can. But usually they can be filed and put back in service. They must be matched, flat to flat, not tipped or missaligned. Set them to 0.016" on the high side of the cam. This should be done anytime you do this much work to a saw that has a points ign. just (if nothing more) to eliminate potential problems. Good luck.



Alright I'm back in with the points exposed. Both sides a very flat to flat but maybe a little dirty. My father said I just fold over a piece of fine wet/dry, close the points and pull out the sandpaper to clean them up sound good? Once this is done am I setting the .016" gap as the "furthest open" with a feeler guage correct? That fixes the timing right?


----------



## briantutt

I realize I am posting in a vacuum but nonetheless...

How far do I sand the points? I am using 400 grit wet/dry. They are pretty shiny now but I can still see a couple small spots on each side that sort of look dull. Should I keep going until the whole surface is shiny?


----------



## Modifiedmark

Brian they should be like you say, flat and clean. If theres a pit in them theres nothing really you can do with that, don't try to sand them down to remove the pit. 

Run a clean piece of paper through them when your done to clean them. 

Yes you set the points at the lowest part of the lobe on the crank. That sets the points, the timing on that saw is the rotation of the whole point assy which is something else. 

Just clean them and set them for now.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> Brian they should be like you say, flat and clean. If theres a pit in them theres nothing really you can do with that, don't try to sand them down to remove the pit.
> 
> Run a clean piece of paper through them when your done to clean them.
> 
> Yes you set the points at the lowest part of the lobe on the crank. That sets the points, the timing on that saw is the rotation of the whole point assy which is something else.
> 
> Just clean them and set them for now.


 
Is the .016 gap what I am shooting for? After sanding the max gap is .010" I can't even get a .011 feeler in without forcing it. Should I just loosen the screw on top and set it at .016? Seems like it should be wider than .016 before I move anything if I just sanded material away. I suppose it could just be that far off???


----------



## Cantdog

Yes Brian...turn the crank so that the points are riding on the highest point of the cam (points open max)...loosen the adjusting screw slightly (you may or may not have a spot purposely made to put a flat blade screwdriver) and pry the points open and set at 0'016" and tighten the screw back up. Turn over a couple revolutions, bring it back on the high spot and recheck. You should be good to go.
If you have a felt cam wiper put one or two (no more) drops of 3-in-1 or similar light oil on it. Do not over do it....one or two drops.


----------



## Cantdog

Sorry I didn't address your question about how the points are set now.
They are to close and that by itself will advance your ign timing one degree for every 0'001" out from what your measurement is supposed to be. The term is points dwell. On most motors you must get the proper points dwell BEFORE you can set your ign. timing or you are just chasing your tail. Swedish saws use a more mechanical method rather than a timing light to set the ign. timing, but the results are the same if you dwell is off your time will be as well.


----------



## briantutt

Going outside right now with it! Will report back shortly.


----------



## briantutt

*Yes!*

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/igBw6h2PJNA?hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/igBw6h2PJNA?hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

Thanks again Mark and Robin for the patience! It might not be perfectly tuned but I kept fiddling with the needles and it revs up and cuts now! It's got Vanguard chain on it freshly sharped on the grinder 20" bar...


----------



## Modifiedmark

Good job Brian, way to stay with it. 

You learned a lesson on igns and not to put one back together without going through it while it's apart! 

Sounds like she still may be a little lean on the H side but you will get it.


----------



## briantutt

Modifiedmark said:


> Good job Brian, way to stay with it.
> 
> You learned a lesson on igns and not to put one back together without going through it while it's apart!
> 
> Sounds like she still may be a little lean on the H side but you will get it.


 
I better rich it out a bit then because the piston and ring are new. 

+1 on the points lesson. I feel like pulling the flywheel on the 70E too now because it seems to have lost some ompf and I never did the points on that one either. Sure made all the difference on this one!

I must have cut into a pretty dirty piece because the very sharp chain was throwing nice big chips when I first went out and now it has dulled corners making dust by the end of the cut in the video.


----------



## Cantdog

Brian don't go looking for points on your 70E..........that's the "E" part----==Electronic Ign.... Good job on your Husky...all it takes is patience and a bit of advise. It's still amazing to me that Mark and I was able to help you from so far away and within a reasonable time. This site is super and the internet....well.. nuff said. Sure beats smoke signals!!!!


----------



## briantutt

Cantdog said:


> Brian don't go looking for points on your 70E..........that's the "E" part----==Electronic Ign.... Good job on your Husky...all it takes is patience and a bit of advise. It's still amazing to me that Mark and I was able to help you from so far away and within a reasonable time. This site is super and the internet....well.. nuff said. Sure beats smoke signals!!!!


 
+1 on the 70E that would have been embarrising...

Yes this site is awesome except it drains my wallet!


----------



## farrell

nice saws everyone! i finally got a picture uploaded of my husqvarna 350! more to come!:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## farrell

i am going to pull the old husky 50 rancher out of the closet and get the new piston ring in it and get it back to making chips!


----------



## bluesportster02

nice saw


----------



## sachsmo

Big Brown Truck brought me a 2100 from the West Coast yesterday.

It was held up in Illinois for a few days, but the wait was worth it.

It has a huge felling Dawg,fulll wrap, and finger rippin' compression, me likes!

(Need to update my sig. line, I am about 7-8 saws behind)


----------



## briantutt

sachsmo said:


> Big Brown Truck brought me a 2100 from the West Coast yesterday.
> 
> It was held up in Illinois for a few days, but the wait was worth it.
> 
> It has a huge felling Dawg,fulll wrap, and finger rippin' compression, me likes!
> 
> (Need to update my sig. line, I am about 7-8 saws behind)


 
guess so, I don't even see a sig line :chainsawguy:


----------



## sachsmo

Yeah I don't show it since I'm so far behind.

Let me think, need to add 2 112s, a 153, another 6800i, another 2100, and a 120 Super. I think that's all, but I will trudge through the 5" of new snow and take a pic of the 2100, and look to see if I missed any. After all "no pics it didn't happen" eh?


----------



## briantutt

sachsmo said:


> After all "no pics it didn't happen" eh?


 
I was just about to say that...:msp_glare:


----------



## sachsmo

Got some gas for the snow blowing machine, and hunted down some decent fuel line. Man I am real happy with this dude, snagged it on a BIN, minutes after it was listed.

The fuel line was kind of like,,,,,,,,gum.

The tank wreaked of 10 year old fuel, poured some Kroil in the tanks, swished 'em out, put new fuel line gave it 7 pulls, and she fired.

It accellerates good, burbles at about 12,000 (by ear) and runs like a real sweety.

Got a little ouchy on the end of the handle, but is only cosmetic.


----------



## briantutt

*Looks Awesome!*

So what is it? Looks mean with that air filter and the bad :censored: dawg!

I have seem that muffler style on some recent 65's listed is it modded?


----------



## sachsmo

Dunno if it is modded, took it out of the box, put a dribble of fuel in it and she came to life.

Found a really soft fuel line, kinda like tar, cleaned the tanks (rank old fuel), replaced the line/filter.

I runs so good, I aint going to tear it down for awhile. It is from Oregon, so it is quite possible it's had some magic done to it.

She is going to see some hard work here as soon as we get a thaw. (about 16 inches of snow on the ground around here)

Gonna put it on the mill and see if it can compete with the old Dolmars.


----------



## farrell

farrell said:


> i am going to pull the old husky 50 rancher out of the closet and get the new piston ring in it and get it back to making chips!


 
tore the husky 50 down cleaned it up. a little scoring on the piston and cylinder but not bad. replaced the the piston ring and put it back together. the compression seems good. gonna try her out tomarrow!


----------



## farrell

fired up the old husky 50 rancher after replacing the piston ring yesterday. she purrs like a kitten!! have to adjust the carb and replace the kill switch. gonna be a nice saw for limbing after i replace the worn out bar!!:msp_biggrin:

i also will be recieving my new used husky 350 which is supposed to run great and hopefully wont need anything. i am so excited!!!


----------



## briantutt

sachsmo said:


> Dunno if it is modded, took it out of the box, put a dribble of fuel in it and she came to life.
> 
> Found a really soft fuel line, kinda like tar, cleaned the tanks (rank old fuel), replaced the line/filter.
> 
> I runs so good, I aint going to tear it down for awhile. It is from Oregon, so it is quite possible it's had some magic done to it.
> 
> She is going to see some hard work here as soon as we get a thaw. (about 16 inches of snow on the ground around here)
> 
> Gonna put it on the mill and see if it can compete with the old Dolmars.


 
Do you know what model that thing is?


----------



## briantutt

farrell said:


> fired up the old husky 50 rancher after replacing the piston ring yesterday. she purrs like a kitten!! have to adjust the carb and replace the kill switch. gonna be a nice saw for limbing after i replace the worn out bar!!:msp_biggrin:
> 
> i also will be recieving my new used husky 350 which is supposed to run great and hopefully wont need anything. i am so excited!!!


 
Good job! It's fun to hear them run after knowing they have been dead for a long time.


----------



## farrell

that is what happens when my stupid brother ran a bad mixture through our grandpas saw so long ago. it sounds so nice. i was amazed that after all this time it fired up! took some pulling though to get the cobwebs out! 

for adjusting the carb when it is idling high what screws have to be adjusted?


----------



## sachsmo

*2100*



sachsmo said:


> Big Brown Truck brought me a 2100 from the West Coast yesterday.
> 
> It was held up in Illinois for a few days, but the wait was worth it.
> 
> It has a huge felling Dawg,fulll wrap, and finger rippin' compression, me likes!
> 
> (Need to update my sig. line, I am about 7-8 saws behind)


 "


----------



## briantutt

farrell said:


> that is what happens when my stupid brother ran a bad mixture through our grandpas saw so long ago. it sounds so nice. i was amazed that after all this time it fired up! took some pulling though to get the cobwebs out!
> 
> for adjusting the carb when it is idling high what screws have to be adjusted?


 
Adjusting the needles is not my strong suit but here goes: The idle should be set so the chain stops moving when at idle. The low speed needle is set so that it revs up snappy when you hit the throttle. The high speed idle is then set rich enough so the saw sounds like it is four stroking when not in the cut and when you start cutting (under load) it should sound two stroke and have lots of power. If you are too lean on the high speed needle it will have high RPMs when not cutting but no power in the cut. In short set the high speed needle for max power when cutting with a four stroke sound when not in the cut.

Clear as mud...


----------



## briantutt

sachsmo said:


> 2100


 
I am WAY jealous, that thing is cool.


----------



## farrell

thanks again for the help!


----------



## farrell

briantutt said:


> Adjusting the needles is not my strong suit but here goes: The idle should be set so the chain stops moving when at idle. The low speed needle is set so that it revs up snappy when you hit the throttle. The high speed idle is then set rich enough so the saw sounds like it is four stroking when not in the cut and when you start cutting (under load) it should sound two stroke and have lots of power. If you are too lean on the high speed needle it will have high RPMs when not cutting but no power in the cut. In short set the high speed needle for max power when cutting with a four stroke sound when not in the cut.
> 
> Clear as mud...


 
thanks!!! running like a peach now!!!!!


----------



## farrell

well finally got pics of my other saws loaded. if anyone wants to look. nothing special but love them all.


----------



## Modifiedmark

briantutt said:


> I am WAY jealous, that thing is cool.


 
Yes they are Brian, they pull real hard. I have a 1100 which is the earlier verison of the 2100. 99cc of power.


----------



## Modifiedmark

farrell said:


> well finally got pics of my other saws loaded. if anyone wants to look. nothing special but love them all.


 
I know nothing about the red one but the other two are good saws for sure.


----------



## briantutt

*Husqvarna 362XP Decal*







Picked this up from Feebay. Finally the crushed 362XP is complete again, been watching forever.


----------



## briantutt

*Husqvarna 65*

Cut some more with the 65 this week. I really like it, thanks to all who helped me with advice.

Has anyone seen a full wrap handle for a 65?


----------



## Arkie

*Husky 445 help needed*

I bought a used 445 and can't get the chain guard off. I can pull the front out far enough to get the bar off, but the guard is being held by something. I'm afraid to pry too much, don't want to break anything. The manual says to remove the bar nut and pull the cover off. Any tips would be appreciated.


----------



## 7hpjim

loosen the chain first, remove both stud nuts and it should come off, good luck


----------



## r&r

Is your chain brake off?


----------



## Arkie

There appears to be a flat steel spring wrapped around the clutch that is fastened to the cover plate. I've never seen one like this and there has to be a trick to it.


----------



## parrisw

Arkie said:


> There appears to be a flat steel spring wrapped around the clutch that is fastened to the cover plate. I've never seen one like this and there has to be a trick to it.


 
Its called a chain brake, disengage the chainbrake.


----------



## Arkie

r&r said:


> Is your chain brake off?



Yes


----------



## Arkie

Arkie said:


> Yes



Thanks. I have never had the problem with my STIHL. When I release the break I wasn't pushing it far enough.


----------



## r&r

no problem my father got a great deal on a used basically new 445 that was returned to the store because it was "broken". Only problem was the chain brake was set while clutch cover was off the saw owner couldnt get it back on. Different design some folks dont take the time to understand it.


----------



## kmcinms

*service specs*

Can someone link me to some service specs for a Husky 61. I'm putting a new ring in and want to check the piston for wear. I need to know wear limits. Thanks


----------



## MGoBlue

I just replaced a 450e w/:
















Thanks for sharin' all those great pics and keep 'em coming.


----------



## kmcinms

*Me and my little friend*

My little buddy and me been getting reacquainted today....he's been out of the loop for over 5 year. New fuel line and he was good to go. Bought him new in '92, all 36 ccs of pure wood munching grunt :msp_tongue:. 






One truck wasn't enuff. This is the second load in both of them;






Good red oak rounds shot, 27-28" max here;


----------



## kmcinms

*Needed a saw*

I found myself needing a bigger saw for a tree job I got coming up and I bought a well used 61 w/24" ProLite bar and 72LP chain. It's a running saw, but not too healthy. I basically paid him for the B&C.
I figured I could fell the tree with it and buck it with my 51, but it didn't happen. Saw was low on comp @95 and wasn't real responsive on the low side.
I popped the muffler off to find the piston was in backwards with a HUGE ring end gap 
P&C look great, ring was TOAST. What was good is that I actually found a local shop with a new Husky ring in stock.  
Me being a gear head and all, I couldn't leave well enough alone and had to touch up the exhaust port a bit. Here's what it turned out like. First saw jug to play with, and I wasn't about to pull my perfect running 51 apart to practice on :msp_mellow:







HELLO! 











That's a 70% exh. port 






Got 'em all back together last night and pulled over 150psi 
Went to pop it off this morning and it hit on the second pull, but never cranked. Pulled the top cover off and found the fuel line spraying fuel everywhere. I didn't pursue replacing the line, gonna have to wait till next week for one. 
Oh well, I'll have a good running saw on the cheap and can do dirty yobs without feeling too guilty about it.


----------



## briantutt

Looks good to me! great to hear you have another one back from the depths.


----------



## GrizzlyAdams86

288xp and fiskars


----------



## kmcinms

*Need opinion on Chin part*

Has any of you Husky guys used these clutch cover/chain brake assys.? I'm needing a chain brake for my 61. My cover is in good condition, just no internals. Anybody out there? Thanks.

EDIT: I musta been tired last night, I forgot to add the link to the part... 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290538891084&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT


----------



## 7hpjim

I got the one for the 3xx pro series w/ side chain adj. color is off but it works, have 2 for the 2xx series, specs off on these, brake band drags really badly and very tricky to get on off saw without a lot of swearing, you have to grind the projections around the circumference of the brake band to fix this, hope this helps.
Jim


----------



## sunfish

kmcinms said:


> Has any of you Husky guys used these clutch cover/chain brake assys.? I'm needing a chain brake for my 61. My cover is in good condition, just no internals. Anybody out there? Thanks.
> 
> EDIT: I musta been tired last night, I forgot to add the link to the part...
> 
> Clutch side cover brake assy fits Husqvarna 272 268 61 - eBay (item 290538891084 end time Mar-27-11 22:32:55 PDT)


 I would stay away from the China junk if I could. Maybe 
someone will have a used original.


----------



## sunfish

*BTW, there are some great lookin saws in this thread!*


----------



## cat-face timber

*Husky Pic*

Here is one of my favorite Husky pics.
My 385xp 









View attachment 177057


----------



## briantutt

*2100*

I put a feeler out on a 2100 yesterday...:msp_tongue:


----------



## cat-face timber

briantutt said:


> I put a feeler out on a 2100 yesterday...:msp_tongue:


 
I am jealous, Howabout you send it to me and I will send you a Stihl MS250 with flippy caps (Leaky Flippy Caps)

ok?

Just kidding, man I love the big huskys!!!


----------



## briantutt

*Flippy Cap Threat*

Well we will see what happens. He has a nearly complete 65 for $100 I may take it...like I need two 

Have you seen this? 

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/70698-274.htm#post2480011

Hilarious


----------



## cat-face timber

briantutt said:


> Well we will see what happens. He has a nearly complete 65 for $100 I may take it...like I need two
> 
> Have you seen this?
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/70698-274.htm#post2480011
> 
> Hilarious


 
I watched the Video, AMEN!!!
That is about all I can say is AMEN.


----------



## GoRving

*288xp*

I picked-up a 288XP a few weeks ago with some other saws. This evening I cranked it up and ran it a while. It was "cruddy", so I blew the crud out from under the covers and cleaned it up some. I'm sure it will cool better now. The top cover was sun-bleached almost white, so I wiped it down with red ATF, and that brought it back out some. The saw runs great. Was going to post some pics, but a storm came up and ran me back in the house. Tomorrow I'll post a pic or 2. This one will be in my firewood saw line-up, for sure...


----------



## brncreeper

briantutt said:


> Well we will see what happens. He has a nearly complete 65 for $100 I may take it...like I need two
> 
> Have you seen this?
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/70698-274.htm#post2480011
> 
> Hilarious


Nothing like a backwards design to erase a companies credibility. I think paying the flippycap engineer to stay home would be a wise investment.


----------



## kmcinms

*61 lives*

Thought I'd test the 61 out on something yesterday. Going to cut this log up and split it for firewood. Hung the 24" bar in it and she cut through it like butter. Saw is strong!  39" Red Oak 
















anyone want to guess how much firewood is in that 12.5 foot log?


----------



## cat-face timber

I would say between 3/4 and 1 cord (128 cf)

I just love those smaller tough as nails Huskys!

I know my 272 has gotten me out of a jam or two, where other saws failed.


----------



## briantutt

kmcinms said:


> Thought I'd test the 61 out on something yesterday. Going to cut this log up and split it for firewood. Hung the 24" bar in it and she cut through it like butter. Saw is strong!  39" Red Oak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyone want to guess how much firewood is in that 12.5 foot log?


 
Looks like an excuse reason to get 100cc's...:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## cat-face timber

385XP, 395XP and the mother of all saws

3120XP



I like the 2100 but they are hard to find?


----------



## briantutt

cat-face timber said:


> 385XP, 395XP and the mother of all saws
> 
> 3120XP
> 
> 
> 
> I like the 2100 but they are hard to find?


 
There is a 3120XP on Ebay for $2300 with 72" bar, go buy it and let's see a video!

There are 2100's on Ebay too for about $400 running...


----------



## cat-face timber

briantutt said:


> There is a 3120XP on Ebay for $2300 with 72" bar, go buy it and let's see a video!
> 
> There are 2100's on Ebay too for about $400 running...


 
See if you would buy the 3120XP with the 72" bar, send it to me I would send you a leaky FLIPPY CAP!

Sound fair?


----------



## briantutt

cat-face timber said:


> See if you would buy the 3120XP with the 72" bar, send it to me I would send you a leaky FLIPPY CAP!
> 
> Sound fair?


 
Well it does have a "or best offer" you could offer the flippy cap and see what you get


----------



## cat-face timber

briantutt said:


> Well it does have a "or best offer" you could offer the flippy cap and see what you get


----------



## cat-face timber

Husky Project,

What is your next Husky project?
I would like to finish my two (272 and 365) and hopeully get a 395 project.

We can all wish right!


----------



## briantutt

cat-face timber said:


> Husky Project,
> 
> What is your next Husky project?
> I would like to finish my two (272 and 365) and hopeully get a 395 project.
> 
> We can all wish right!


 
I put token bids in on some low starting 2100 parts. Even tried to snipe a 2100 parts saw...to no avail.


----------



## cat-face timber

briantutt said:


> I put token bids in on some low starting 2100 parts. Even tried to snipe a 2100 parts saw...to no avail.


 
I would love to have a 3120, but man the price is too much OUCH!
I wonder how many Husky made?
You dont see them onE-Bay much??


----------



## kmcinms

briantutt said:


> Looks like an excuse reason to get 100cc's...:hmm3grin2orange:


 Hah, I'm not even dreaming of a hunnert ccs...:msp_unsure:
I love challenges, and for what little I have in my pumped up 61, I can stand to make a good bit of change using it. :msp_biggrin:
The hunnert will come much later, if it doesn't fall into my lap in the meantime.


----------



## Jon1212

briantutt said:


> Looks like an excuse reason to get 100cc's...:hmm3grin2orange:


 


cat-face timber said:


> 385XP, 395XP and the mother of all saws
> 
> 3120XP
> 
> 
> 
> I like the 2100 but they are hard to find?


 


kmcinms said:


> Hah, I'm not even dreaming of a hunnert ccs...:msp_unsure:
> I love challenges, and for what little I have in my pumped up 61, I can stand to make a good bit of change using it. :msp_biggrin:
> The hunnert will come much later, if it doesn't fall into my lap in the meantime.


 
Well I guess after today I can say I'm a member of the six cube club. I picked this up off a NorCal CL for $280, and it came with a 28 inch bar(2 chains) a 36 inch bar (4 chains) spare chain sprockets for running .404, and some other stuff. It sounds real strong.

View attachment 177312
View attachment 177313


----------



## cat-face timber

Jon1212 said:


> Well I guess after today I can say I'm a member of the six cube club. I picked this up off a NorCal CL for $280, and it came with a 28 inch bar(2 chains) a 36 inch bar (4 chains) spare chain sprockets for running .404, and some other stuff. It sounds real strong.
> 
> View attachment 177312
> View attachment 177313


 
Great looking saw, I am officially Jealous.
Love big huskys!!!


----------



## briantutt

Jon1212 said:


> Well I guess after today I can say I'm a member of the six cube club. I picked this up off a NorCal CL for $280, and it came with a 28 inch bar(2 chains) a 36 inch bar (4 chains) spare chain sprockets for running .404, and some other stuff. It sounds real strong.
> 
> View attachment 177312
> View attachment 177313


 
You suck! 

Just kidding. Sounds like you got a great deal. No saws laying around these parts like that. I need to find one of those with other methods...


----------



## kmcinms

Jon1212 said:


> Well I guess after today I can say I'm a member of the six cube club. I picked this up off a NorCal CL for $280, and it came with a 28 inch bar(2 chains) a 36 inch bar (4 chains) spare chain sprockets for running .404, and some other stuff. It sounds real strong.
> 
> View attachment 177312
> View attachment 177313



Did anyone tell you how bad you just got burnt? :msp_biggrin:
Dude, that's a sweet saw and an even sweeter deal on it. I'm liking it. Now that's the kind of deal that I was talking about falling into my lap. 
Hope it works well for ya.


----------



## Jon1212

Thanks fellas, I appreciate all the "kind" words.:msp_wink: As soon as I get it cleaned up, dialed in, and a new air filter cover(the one on it is pretty well shot) I'll post some decent pics. By the way I think it's pretty dang old since it has a manual oiler, and no chain brake.


----------



## stihl 440

I used to be a die hard stihl guy...but i am a fully changed husky man....385's and 372's and 395's mainly....pretty much every husky xp saw. But as seen in my sig i have others as well....but my go to saws are huskys....i like to run the best models of all the brands..lol But for the best all around timber falling saw for me is a modded 385xp with a 24" bar.


----------



## kmcinms

cat-face timber said:


> I would say between 3/4 and 1 cord (128 cf)
> 
> I just love those smaller tough as nails Huskys!
> 
> I know my 272 has gotten me out of a jam or two, where other saws failed.


 
You're pretty close. But it is more than a cord in it. 
After I got scolded, and finally pulled my head outta my @$$, I need to say, this is white oak instead of red.
That being said, my son and I split two rounds of this log and got 159 splits out of it. There is 9' of the log left, or say 5 more rounds.
Here it is stacked tight in my truck at 48" high. The distance between the bed rails is 5.5 feet. Splits are 20" long. And, no, I didn't get far with those splitting mauls, I used my hydraulic splitter to git her did...:msp_thumbup:


----------



## jar1zx

chain break taken off saw and beer in pic, lol


----------



## jar1zx

sry that wasn't why I am posting, got a brand new 372xp this week, it is replacing a 372xp i got back in 1st month of 05

I gave a 460 a try ( got at very good deal, an new) but that saw didn't have the power I am used 2

guy at saw shop said the new 372xp x torq is not the same saw as the older 372xp, I'll tell how it does after i run a few tanks through it


----------



## cat-face timber

jar1zx said:


> sry that wasn't why I am posting, got a brand new 372xp this week, it is replacing a 372xp i got back in 1st month of 05
> 
> I gave a 460 a try ( got at very good deal, an new) but that saw didn't have the power I am used 2
> 
> guy at saw shop said the new 372xp x torq is not the same saw as the older 372xp, I'll tell how it does after i run a few tanks through it



I will be very interested in your opinion of the X Torq, I have heard great things, but I think is was just salesman BS.


----------



## briantutt

kmcinms said:


> You're pretty close. But it is more than a cord in it.
> After I got scolded, and finally pulled my head outta my @$$, I need to say, this is white oak instead of red.
> That being said, my son and I split two rounds of this log and got 159 splits out of it. There is 9' of the log left, or say 5 more rounds.
> Here it is stacked tight in my truck at 48" high. The distance between the bed rails is 5.5 feet. Splits are 20" long. And, no, I didn't get far with those splitting mauls, I used my hydraulic splitter to git her did...:msp_thumbup:


 
Nice load there! Drop it off at my place, still below freezing here with 12" last Wed...


----------



## kmcinms

jar1zx said:


> chain break taken off saw and beer in pic, lol


That's the most useless post I've seen on this site so far. 


briantutt said:


> Nice load there! Drop it off at my place, still below freezing here with 12" last Wed...


 Dang, where is here?


----------



## briantutt

kmcinms said:


> That's the most useless post I've seen on this site so far.
> 
> Dang, where is here?


 
Central MN


----------



## komatsuvarna

I like me some husqvarna saws. Here's my little collection.
View attachment 177623






You'll have to excuse the little one on the end. Its the same color and it thinks its a husky. Thats a 009L, 346, 372,and a 395.


----------



## kmcinms

komatsuvarna said:


> I like me some husqvarna saws. Here's my little collection.
> View attachment 177623
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll have to excuse the little one on the end. Its the same color and it thinks its a husky. Thats a 009L, 346, 372,and a 395.


Can't open it.


----------



## komatsuvarna

kmcinms said:


> Can't open it.


 
Humm, thats odd. I see it in my post, and in your quoted post.
View attachment 177627


----------



## kmcinms

That is odd, but I see it only in the updated attachment. Nice saws. You can definitely get some work did with that line up. What bar is on the 394?


----------



## komatsuvarna

kmcinms said:


> That is odd, but I see it only in the updated attachment. Nice saws. You can definitely get some work did with that line up. What bar is on the 394?


 
I had the same problem in another thread. I must be trying to embed wrong or something. The 372 has a 20'' bar and a 8 pin. The 395 has a 28'' Carlton bar and a 8 pin. I plan on getting a 24'' for the 372, and I have a 36'' for the 395.


----------



## MacLaren

372/395 dont get no better than that! 
I bet that 395 is a real hawg!


----------



## komatsuvarna

hillbilly22 said:


> 372/395 dont get no better than that!
> I bet that 395 is a real hawg!


 
The 395 is Mike's old saw. I done some more port work to the lower transfers and am fixing to mill the cylinder down a little. Should make a little more difference....I hope!


----------



## StinkyBunny

My new 460 toy, lol.


----------



## mdavlee

komatsuvarna said:


> The 395 is Mike's old saw. I done some more port work to the lower transfers and am fixing to mill the cylinder down a little. Should make a little more difference....I hope!


 
If you want to go wider on the ports come up with a 2101 piston. I think you'll need to do it before you drop the jug or you'll end up with a huge popup and compression over 200. The 2101 piston needs a popup to fit from the start.


----------



## briantutt

StinkyBunny said:


> My new 460 toy, lol.


 
Is this a sick joke?


----------



## promac850

Well, I am currently working on closing up a deal on a clean 350. It will be my very first Husky, and I will take care of the saw.  I've always had a soft spot for them orange saws... 

Yellow and orange should get along well in the barn, right? They're pretty close on the color wheel, so I'm not gonna worry about it... :jester:


----------



## cat-face timber

Becareful with mixing breeds.
My OLD Stihl 050 AV, does not like my Husky 385XP, it is actually Jealous of the speed and the ease of starting.
My Husky 272XP HATES anything STIHL 050 and MS250....
It actually will piss bar oil if it ever touches a Stihl.

Word to the wise, your saws will fight each other when you are not there.


----------



## briantutt

and NEVER EVER leave too Eager Beavers alone in the shed...


----------



## komatsuvarna

mdavlee said:


> If you want to go wider on the ports come up with a 2101 piston. I think you'll need to do it before you drop the jug or you'll end up with a huge popup and compression over 200. The 2101 piston needs a popup to fit from the start.


 
Yep, your right. It should be done by next weekend.


----------



## StinkyBunny

briantutt said:


> Is this a sick joke?


 
Nope, I loaded the wrong damn pic and I was tired. Sorry bout that. If a mod could delete that post I'd be grateful.


----------



## GrizzlyAdams86

*2100 cd*






An updated pic of the 2100. Now has a 28" bar (thanks mdavlee) insted of a 20".

(Don't mind the creamsickle in the back)


----------



## briantutt

GrizzlyAdams86 said:


> An updated pic of the 2100. Now has a 28" bar insted of a 20".
> 
> (Don't mind the creamsickle in the back)


 
Darn it! No I am more jealous. Did you find that in WI? I haven't seen anything over 70cc around here in MN.


----------



## briantutt

*Pic Help!*



StinkyBunny said:


> Nope, I loaded the wrong damn pic and I was tired. Sorry bout that. If a mod could delete that post I'd be grateful.


 
Much better!


----------



## GrizzlyAdams86

briantutt said:


> Darn it! No I am more jealous. Did you find that in WI? I haven't seen anything over 70cc around here in MN.



Dad got it back in the early 80's from a Husky shop after the previous owner never came back to pick it up after having some work done to it. He was able to buy it for what the repair bill was, I think he said it was less than $200. He used it off and on until he got out of logging when the bottom fell out in the mid 90's around here. It sat in the garage barely used until I asked about it a few years ago. I still consider dad the "owner", I just use it and take care of it for him.


----------



## jar1zx

kmcinms said:


> That's the most useless post I've seen on this site so far.
> 
> Dang, where is here?


 
I seen a guy put a 44 with a 20 inch bar right between his eye's, split his head open, even took out a chip of bone, but the chain had stopped before it ever hit him (chain break did it's job) 
so i always get a chill run up my back when i see a saw with out one

i have been told on the older husky's, the chain break didn't work so well, or it was that they got in the way, an lots of logger's took them off the saw back in the 80's, 
but all together with a beer in pic, just screams safety


----------



## gr8scott72




----------



## kmcinms

jar1zx said:


> I seen a guy put a 44 with a 20 inch bar right between his eye's, split his head open, even took out a chip of bone, but the chain had stopped before it ever hit him (chain break did it's job)
> so i always get a chill run up my back when i see a saw with out one
> 
> i have been told on the older husky's, the chain break didn't work so well, or it was that they got in the way, an lots of logger's took them off the saw back in the 80's,
> but all together with a beer in pic, just screams safety



jar, I'm with you on the chain brake. That's why I've been beating the bushes for brake parts since I bought the saw last week. I personally don't like running it without the chain brake functioning.
I've only made five cuts with it so far, four of that was in a 36-40" log, and one stump cut. That was with absolutely no beer involved. :hmm3grin2orange:
The beer in the pic is after we got through for the evening, it's night time, and the saw isn't running in the back of my truck, so I allowed the little fella to have a sip. He's 22 now so he is of age...:msp_tongue:



gr8scott72 said:


>


 

Doood!! Thass bad. :msp_thumbup:


----------



## cat-face timber

gr8scott72 said:


>


----------



## kmcinms

*HUSKY help please*

I hope I've not gone completely crazy working on my saw. Has anyone here replaced the molded fuel line on a Husky 61? It has a step and a shoulder on it that keeps the line from going down into the tank. How on earth do you get this line in the tank and put the filter on it?
Do you pull the tapered section through the tank with the filter installed. I tried that but no joy there. Didn't want to ruin a new $10 line.
The tail isn't long enough to go through the top and still be able to install the filter. I bought the Husky line from my dealer. Original equipment and all that. :dunno:


----------



## Jon1212

kmcinms said:


> I hope I've not gone completely crazy working on my saw. Has anyone here replaced the molded fuel line on a Husky 61? It has a step and a shoulder on it that keeps the line from going down into the tank. How on earth do you get this line in the tank and put the filter on it?
> Do you pull the tapered section through the tank with the filter installed. I tried that but no joy there. Didn't want to ruin a new $10 line.
> The tail isn't long enough to go through the top and still be able to install the filter. I bought the Husky line from my dealer. Original equipment and all that. :dunno:


 
The fuel line for my 2100 has the grommet molded in as well, and it is seated in the hole to the tank then I had to fish the filter end out of the tank put the filter on then slide the carb end in place. Mine was $ 17.41 with tax at Baileys which is 22 miles one way from work..........gotta love old saws.


----------



## kmcinms

Jon1212 said:


> The fuel line for my 2100 has the grommet molded in as well, and it is seated in the hole to the tank then I had to fish the filter end out of the tank put the filter on then slide the carb end in place. Mine was $ 17.41 with tax at Baileys which is 22 miles one way from work..........*gotta love old saws.*


 
Yup, I do love old saws. 
Yah, I would do it the way you describe, but the line inside the tank isn't more than 2 3/4" long. There's not enough line to bring it outside the tank to install the filter.


----------



## TRI955

I know it feels like your going to pull the line in two, but you have to pull!! Use some grease on the grommet and the hole in the tank, it will pull through.:msp_thumbup:


----------



## tbone75

*Great Thread!*

Keep up the good work guys! Thanks for sharing


----------



## briantutt

TRI955 said:


> I know it feels like your going to pull the line in two, but you have to pull!! Use some grease on the grommet and the hole in the tank, it will pull through.:msp_thumbup:


 
I put that line in my 65 when the case was split but I put grease on it just like TRI955 says and used a small screwdriver to "assist" the engagement by collapsing the line.


----------



## mayhem100

Cool thread, might as well jump in with both feet.

Brand spankin' new 359. Less than a tank of gas run through her so far...I really like it.View attachment 180161


----------



## stihlaficionado

cat-face timber said:


> Becareful with mixing breeds.
> My OLD Stihl 050 AV, does not like my Husky 385XP, it is actually Jealous of the speed and the ease of starting.
> My Husky 272XP HATES anything STIHL 050 and MS250....
> It actually will piss bar oil if it ever touches a Stihl.
> 
> Word to the wise, your saws will fight each other when you are not there.


 
Guess my saws are better mannered. I usually take both brands out.


----------



## stihl 440

im thinkin about selling my 2100cd project saw if anyone's interested...money talks...and i need to turn over some to get my saws that are on the bench in the woods...


----------



## jar1zx

cat-face timber said:


> I will be very interested in your opinion of the X Torq, I have heard great things, but I think is was just salesman BS.


 
ok the new saw is well broke in, seems it doesn't have the grunt as my old 372xp, the 372xp xtorq seems to be a nice saw, only thing i did was to take spark screen out of muffler ( I don't see how that would effect the saw, but i may put it back in just 2 see)

as it stands now my old worn out 372xp cuts better than the new 372xp xt, both run husky mix oill, an 20 inch bars, with dub drag chains, an 93 oct on gas, 

I am not yet giving up on it, will take it to saw shop and let a pro tune it ( guy has a saw shop 20 miles from me been been working on and selling chain saws his whole life, his dad did it before him)

any improvements, and i will post


----------



## belgian

This is a saw one doesn't find every day either, especially in the shape it's in. It's a 285CD that is almost like new, and with ton's of compression, completely original...

it completed my heavy huskies collection built on the same chassis (285CD, 298xp, 1100, 2100, 2101xp)

I hear you guys thinking about that silly short bar (18") it's wearing, but hey, this is europe.:msp_wink:
















I have a 2100 top end I could swing on it, but it's too nice the way it is......am I don't cut wood either LOLOL.


----------



## briantutt

*Beautiful!*

Belgian, Nice score. I would love to find me one in that series that didn't cost me an arm and a leg. I would cut wood with mine though, make a 3' diameter oak respect me for once


----------



## belgian

briantutt said:


> Belgian, Nice score. I would love to find me one in that series that didn't cost me an arm and a leg. I would cut wood with mine though, make a 3' diameter oak respect me for once



thanks ! Huskies go relatively cheap over here compared to Stihls (good for me, hehe). 

Hope you find one. They have a nice sound to them and plenty of good ole power. That's why I like em.


----------



## rattler362

Nice saw belgian have a bit of rep on such a nice find.

Mike


----------



## kmcinms

*Ooooooooooooooo*

Super nice Husky.


----------



## GrizzlyAdams86

*Bump*

A freebie 480 CD.











Not excatly pristine, but it does run. Don't know the history of this saw but jugding by the bent handle bar, chunk missing out of the cluch cover and 285 recoil cover not an easy one. Freind got it from a relative, got it running and has had it out cutting but hasn't got all the bugs ironed out. And he also said he didn't need a saw this big ether. I'll tinker with it and see what happens.


----------



## NORMZILLA44

Good saw, can't beat free either. I love husqvarna, have for along time. Own Stihl, and husky, echo too. I have tried to convince many Stihl guy's that Huskie's are a Formidable force, and top dog too. I have a 51,372,and a 2101xp.


----------



## SawTroll

Modifiedmark said:


> Yes they are Brian, they pull real hard. I have a 1100 which is the earlier verison of the 2100. 99cc of power.



Yep, but there never was a red version of those, the 1020 was a red P100 Super......


----------



## belgian

I found a military version of the Husqvarna F70 : in pretty good shape except for a broken cylinder stud for the muffler bolt.


----------



## briantutt

Hey guys, got a question.

Roy from across the pond and I have been emailing back and forth about what we thought was a 65. However it has two piston rings and the muffler mount and opening are different. What gives here? The 77 has two rings but the muffler port looks the same in the IPL as a 65. Also his flywheel has three dawgs on it.






















Does anyone know what he has for sure?

Brian


----------



## epalmerson

Billy Jack said:


> Here are my saws about a week ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All are listed in my signature. The two missing ain't AWOL, they're MIA!!!


 
I dig all the matching Carlton bars!


----------



## rsscully




----------



## SawTroll

Briantutt, do you have a better picture of the top cover (from above)?


----------



## Job Corps Tree

*Husqvarna Chainsaw*

Just went through all the pages loved it , I have a 298XP bought new still runs strong, don't have a picture of right now , someone posted a picture of it on the OK,AR,MO,KS,TX,GTG thread one about (I know where you got that handel) someone was kind enough to give me a D handle for it so I could remove the Stick I had on it ,cut a lot og big trees with it sence 86


----------



## briantutt

SawTroll said:


> Briantutt, do you have a better picture of the top cover (from above)?


 










Here is a more top view and a pic of something odd on the flywheel side of the cylinder.


----------



## MacLaren

View attachment 204742



The all new Husqvarna 555. She's a winner.


----------



## briantutt

*Mystery*

Here is another pic. The fuel line comes out of some sort of plastic thing. This is not at all like my 65. What gives? :msp_unsure:






I am sure one of you guys will ID this thing. Cylinder also is marked MAHLE 48ZD3.


----------



## taplinhill

That Mahle casting number is for the 65.
The 65 was made for a lot of years, so the differences you are seeing could just be early vs. late models.


----------



## briantutt

taplinhill said:


> That Mahle casting number is for the 65.
> The 65 was made for a lot of years, so the differences you are seeing could just be early vs. late models.


 
Most everything on it screams 65 so I mostly agree but the muffler thing seems too wierd because all the time I spent looking for parts for mine I never saw one like Roy's.


----------



## taplinhill

SawTroll would know, but I think some of those 65's were Yugo built saws.
There may have been differences between the factory practices.


----------



## steve-lake

*Hi, Newbie here...*



belgian said:


> Gypo may have the fastest, I have the husky that vibrates the most....
> 
> this is a F70 Husky, 70cc, and a runner of course. No AV at all on this one...and it really shows...
> 
> .



Great to see some pics of a Husky F70, I have had one for 20 years, it is in use every year, sure it vibrates, so what!... i think it's good for my arthritus . I'm finding it a bit heavy these days, the 70cc motor and all metal construction makes it difficult to heft above shoulder hieght or up ladders. But it is by far the best and most reliable saw I've ever owned (i'll admit to having had 40+).
Does anyone know if spares are available for the F70?... i was wondering if a newer (roller) bar was available...from a different model? also over the years various parts have failed, some of which I have had to have made (i.e. the cup the starter dogs engage in)... info frmo anyone with any experience in this model would be much appreciated.
Thanks....Steve


----------



## carym2a

View attachment 238450
View attachment 238451




The husky pack out for some air


----------



## kmcinms

*Nice family portrait*

Nice saws :msp_thumbup:



NEEDING some 365 Special parts, please, please, please!!!! :smile2: rotor side crankcase firstly. Gig and screws, and that sheet metal chain guard thingamajig that covers the oil port.


----------



## SawTroll

taplinhill said:


> SawTroll would know, but I think some of those 65's were Yugo built saws.
> There may have been differences between the factory practices.



Yes, TOMOS Yugoslavia since about 1974, or a bit earlier.


----------



## briantutt

wow, the husky thread died. I have been off AS for quite awhile.


----------



## Modifiedmark

Glad to see you back around Brian! 

Wondered where you went to.


----------



## briantutt

I became engineering supervisor by attrition and it sucks up all my chainsaw fixing time! Huskys are running good though!


----------



## briantutt

Hey look what followed me home! $60 at a garage sale. chainbrake is apart but supposedly "removed because it makes chain maintenance harder?"






Brian


----------



## stihlaficionado

briantutt said:


> Hey look what followed me home! $60 at a garage sale. chainbrake is apart but supposedly "removed because it makes chain maintenance harder?"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brian



Pretty clean saw...


----------



## briantutt

Agreed! started on two pulls just like he said it would. recoil missing one plastic tooth but otherwise seems in order.

Brian


----------



## Vermonster

My two go-to saws are the Stihl 361 and a Husky 350. Although I love the power and speed of the 361, it has been less reliable than the old Husky. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## briantutt

yeah my 362XP never fails and same with the 65 but they get heavy as the day goes along so hopefully this 41 will work out as a dependable limbing saw. my go to 50 cc saw is the jonsereds 535 but i just got the stihl 028wb kicking so hopefully i can take about a six saw arsenal with me!

Brian


----------



## J.Walker

Been on this red kick when it comes to buying saws, but bought this 562xp last spring from Spike.\






.


----------



## briantutt

Wow those look serious!

the "extra" part shipped to me with my 65 parts saw must be off a similar model to the 41. not exactly the same but probably fits.






Brian


----------



## kmcinms

briantutt said:


> Hey look what followed me home! $60 at a garage sale. * chainbrake is apart but supposedly "removed because it makes chain maintenance harder?"*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brian



Hey Brian, long time no see. Nice 41. That chain maintenance statement is ridiculous, huh? You'll like that 41 for limbing. That's what I do with my muff modded 36. Been tempted to do a 41 transplant.


----------



## briantutt

Agreed. the guy said the original owner was in his 90s. maybe he just thought it was silly!

Brian


----------



## briantutt

kmcinms said:


> Hey Brian, long time no see. Nice 41. That chain maintenance statement is ridiculous, huh? You'll like that 41 for limbing. That's what I do with my muff modded 36. Been tempted to do a 41 transplant.



I did some limbing yesterday with it! your right, it has a little 13 inch bar but really is light and still has plenty of power for the job. missing chain brake parts are on order. :beer:

Brian


----------



## briantutt

I have all the parts now for the chain brake but can for the life of me figure out how to reassmble it. I dont see where the spring fits in and I assume the big pin goes through that pyramid shaped hole but it doesnt align.






Brian


----------



## Eccentric

briantutt said:


> I have all the parts now for the chain brake but can for the life of me figure out how to reassmble it. I dont see where the spring fits in and I assume the big pin goes through that pyramid shaped hole but it doesnt align.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brian



That spring actually fits inside of the chainbrake lever. Push the coil end into the lever first. Force it up into the lever towards the 'flag' end. The straight arm with the"O" loop on it goes towards the rearward edge of the chainbrake lever. The curved arm of the spring goes towards the forward edge of the chainbrake lever. This orientation can be seen the the IPL's. Looking at your picture, flip the spring over and tuck the coil end into the brake lever.

The pin doesn't go through the pyramid shaped hole. It actually just passes over and in front of the extention (tail) that sticks up and back behind the pyramid section. It doesn't connect the lever to the 'knee link' hardware................it just pushes that tail back and down when you pull the lever back to reset the chainbrake. That's why the chainbrake lever feels 'dsiconnected' and 'floppy' on these saws until the brake has been tripped. When it's tripped, the knee link has folded forward and up..............and that tail is forced against the pin. When the chainbrake is cocked and you push the chainbrake lever forward (either by hand or from the inertia of a kickback event.......where the lever stays put while the rest of the saw kicks back/up), the pin pushes against the pyramid section of the link, nudging it over center (which allows it to fold).

When I work on these buggers I remove the coil spring cover plate on the clutch cover and pop out the bottom/rear end of the coil spring. Makes moving things around for assembly MUCH easier. Once you have the top end stuff (lever, pivot, pin, and such) together, use a screwdriver and your fingers to lever the bottom of the spring back into place. It's a bit tricky. Then reinstall the spring cover. You'll need to reset the chainbrake before putting the clutch cover on the saw. That's also a bit tricky...


----------



## briantutt

Okay is making more sense. The tip about letting the end of the coil spring out to reduce force makes sense. On the goofy spring up in the handle does the metal pin go through the small "o" or is the spring just stuffed up there?

Brian


----------



## Eccentric

briantutt said:


> Okay is making more sense. The tip about letting the end of the coil spring out to reduce force makes sense. On the goofy spring up in the handle does the metal pin go through the small "o" or is the spring just stuffed up there?
> 
> Brian



I can't remember. It might. I do know that when the spring is stuffed all the way in there everything goes together.

I have a spare lever in the bin. I think it has the spring in it. Will check and get back to you.


----------



## briantutt

Thank you sir!

Brian


----------



## mic214

My little McCulloch MiniMac 110 finally gave up the ghost after 25+ years, so I was recently in the market for a new saw. We recently moved into the mountains to a house that sits on an acre which is heavily wooded, mostly with Ponderosa pines, Pinon pine and Alligator Juniper, with a few scrub Oaks here and there. The land had been neglected for several years, so there is lots of clean up to do. We have several large trees that have already fallen down and numerous dead trees that are still standing. There are also lots of smaller trees that need to be thinned out.

I decided that I needed a mid-range sized saw to deal with our property, so after going back and forth between Stihl and Husqvarna, I decided on a Husky 450 with an 18" bar. I had tested one of my neighbors' Stihl 260 "Farm Boss" and another neighbors' Husky 455 "Rancher". Both saws worked great and seemed about equal in cutting ability.

The deciding factors for me was the ease of maintenance on the 450 to clean/replace the filter and access to the spark plug. I was also able to get a nice package deal on the Husky that included a case, extra chain, chain oil and gas mix oil. There is a great shop in town that carries and works on them, so parts and service will not be a problem. After I get rid of the 20" trees, I will probably drop down to a smaller bar (14" or 16") for ease of handling as the remainder of my trees are 6" to 8" in diameter.


----------



## briantutt

I have a random .325 20" bar that will go right on my 362XP. Everything I have had on it is 3/8 pitch. Question is if I get a rim to drive .325 chain how many drive slots? I have a .325 7 slot here but should it be an eight given the speed of this saw?


----------



## Sellseverything

.325 should be 7 slots I do believe.
3/8 is 8 slot.

I have a brand new .325 and it is a 7 slot as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SawTroll

briantutt said:


> I have a random .325 20" bar that will go right on my 362XP. Everything I have had on it is 3/8 pitch. Question is if I get a rim to drive .325 chain how many drive slots? I have a .325 7 slot here but should it be an eight given the speed of this saw?



.325x7 surely won't do that saw justice - you need .325x8.


----------



## SawTroll

Sellseverything said:


> .325 should be 7 slots I do believe.
> 3/8 is 8 slot.
> 
> .....



No, you got that the wrong way around!


----------



## Sellseverything

SawTroll said:


> No, you got that the wrong way around!


You are correct .I apologize. The .325 rim sprocket i have here is for a 350 and its a .325/7. i do also have 3/8-8 and 3/8-7 sprockets


----------



## SawTroll

Sellseverything said:


> You are correct .I apologize. The .325 rim sprocket i have here is for a 350 and its a .325/7. i do also have 3/8-8 and 3/8-7 sprockets



Surely, but what each of us have hardly is the question here - it is about what is suitable with a 20" bar on that saw! 

That aside, what will fit on his saw (and not) depends on clutch drum on the saw (if it has a small 7-spline or a standard 7-spline hub for the rims).


----------



## traktorz

Sellseverything said:


> The .325 rim sprocket i have here is for a 350 and its a .325/7.


Unfortunately, I don't think Husqvarna ever made the option to convert a 350 to rim sprocket. We're stuck with a spur sprocket, since HVA never made an oil pump worm gear for CS2150/350 for use with rim sprocket.


----------



## SawTroll

traktorz said:


> Unfortunately, I don't think Husqvarna ever made the option to convert a 350 to rim sprocket. We're stuck with a spur sprocket, since HVA never made an oil pump worm gear for CS2150/350 for use with rim sprocket.


I understand you have to be a bit creative to make it work, but don't remember the details......


----------



## Homelite410

traktorz said:


> Unfortunately, I don't think Husqvarna ever made the option to convert a 350 to rim sprocket. We're stuck with a spur sprocket, since HVA never made an oil pump worm gear for CS2150/350 for use with rim sprocket.


Well fwiw the 359 standard 7 rim drive drum will drop right on the 350. I just measured the diameter of the worm drive on the 350 and 359 and they are the same. However, the bore of the pump drives is different. So ill bet if you sleeve the 359 pump drive to match the 350, it will probably drop right in.


In my opinion.


----------



## ramonzor

here is my 575 still going strong....


----------



## Homelite410

My old 350.





Hood off.


----------



## traktorz

Homelite410 said:


> Well fwiw the 359 standard 7 rim drive drum will drop right on the 350. I just measured the diameter of the worm drive on the 350 and 359 and they are the same. However, the bore of the pump drives is different. So ill bet if you sleeve the 359 pump drive to match the 350, it will probably drop right in.
> In my opinion.



I guess that's the needed creativity to do, otherwise I just have to run with expendable spur drums, since I've no plans to change from the 7-tooth sprocket to 8-tooth or to other chain types.

P.S.
An impressive muffler mod on your HVA 350. Having added the 350 (e.g. actually the Jonsered counterpart CS2150) to our Jonsered stable (535 & CS2152), I must saw the "350" is a very positive surprise. Good compression, relatively light and agile in manoeuvring, and with the best temperament of all our current Jonsered saws.

Ref:
♦ http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/husky-345-sprocket-conversion.118843/


----------



## Homelite410

traktorz said:


> I guess that's the needed creativity to do, otherwise I just have to run with expendable spur drums, since I've no plans to change from the 7-tooth sprocket to 8-tooth or to other chain types.
> 
> P.S.
> An impressive muffler mod on your HVA 350. Having added the 350 (e.g. actually the Jonsered counterpart CS2150) to our Jonsered stable (535 & CS2152), I must saw the "350" is a very positive surprise. Good compression, relatively light and agile in manoeuvring, and with the best temperament of all our current Jonsered saws.
> 
> Ref:
> ♦ http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/husky-345-sprocket-conversion.118843/


Thank you! That is my favorite saw!! It actually is a 359 stuffed in there!


----------



## lewis16

*cough*


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## briantutt

I have a Husqvarna 41. Cannot figure out how to get the chain brake back together. Does anyone have pictures of reassembly process? 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk


----------



## MnSam

My lightly used CP:


----------



## Leimkuhler

Homelite410 said:


> My old 350.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hood off.


 Is that some type of an exhaust mod ? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## farrell

Leimkuhler said:


> Is that some type of an exhaust mod ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Nope that's where the muffler bearings go......


----------



## Homelite410

Leimkuhler said:


> Is that some type of an exhaust mod ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes sir it is. 1" od stainless pipe.


----------



## Leimkuhler

Homelite410 said:


> Yes sir it is. 1" od stainless pipe.


Is there a how to thread to do that, I have a 272xp and would like to do that. 

Does is make it super loud 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Homelite410

I didn't do a thread but I just silver solder them in.


----------



## Leimkuhler

Homelite410 said:


> I didn't do a thread but I just silver solder them in.


Looks pretty sweet! 
Gonna have to try it. I know it's probably for more air flow.... But it doesn't effect anything with back pressure ? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ash man




----------



## w8ye

You are pretty well set to go.


----------



## ash man

its not a bad 3 saw plan, but I tend to grab the 2260 and dolmar 7900 more often than the 372.


----------



## mac102004

357XP w/ 18" B/C and a shiny new 562XPG w/ 24" B/C


----------



## cgraham1

My newly acquired 262xp! 

The old man I got it from bought it new. I would say he took pretty good care of it! I got a smokin' deal on it, and it even came with a new bar and chain!


----------



## Dilly

My ugly but only $25 husky 61 ported by me [emoji16]






Sent from the international space station


----------



## KenJax Tree




----------



## Leimkuhler

Dilly said:


> My ugly but only $25 husky 61 ported by me [emoji16]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from the international space station



She isn't ugly ! She is beautiful !!! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dilly

Leimkuhler said:


> She isn't ugly ! She is beautiful !!!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks my first real saw that I've played with been thinking about putting a 272 topend on it but I'm happy with it for now


Sent from the international space station


----------



## Leimkuhler

Dilly said:


> Thanks my first real saw that I've played with been thinking about putting a 272 topend on it but I'm happy with it for now
> 
> 
> Sent from the international space station


Got me a 272xp and I'm in love ! 











Put me on a tach too  [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cat-face timber

Love the tach/hour meter idea.
Where did you get that?


----------



## cgraham1

I got this 272xp for free. I had to put a different handle and top cover on it. It came with a 32" bar, but I swapped it out for a 24" I had. $85 total investment! 

I thought I had a better picture, I will take another one later! 160 psi and runs strong!


----------



## cgraham1

Leimkuhler said:


> Got me a 272xp and I'm in love !
> 
> Put me on a tach too


Yours is much nicer than mine! And I like the tach idea, but it would get expensive to put them on every saw...


----------



## Leimkuhler

cat-face timber said:


> Love the tach/hour meter idea.
> Where did you get that?



Bought it off of amazon.com 

The TTO HOUR/TACH meter for 31.95 free shipping. 

I bought that one cause it was orange , matched my husky some what but, if you go to either eBay or Amazon , just type in hour/tach meter and they have them ranging from 11.00 bucks to hundreds of dollars. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Leimkuhler

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Leimkuhler

cgraham1 said:


> I got this 272xp for free. I had to put a different handle and top cover on it. It came with a 32" bar, but I swapped it out for a 24" I had. $85 total investment!
> 
> I thought I had a better picture, I will take another one later! 160 psi and runs strong!
> View attachment 356280



Lucky !!! I want a free 272 , hell I'll take one for free that reads less than 100 psi on the compression check  


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cat-face timber

Love my 272XP..


----------



## Leimkuhler

cgraham1 said:


> Yours is much nicer than mine! And I like the tach idea, but it would get expensive to put them on every saw...


Ya it would , I will probably by a cheapy to tune all my big saws with. Tuning with a tach is very nice. And I burnt up my last piston on my 272 in a matter of minutes from running to lean and not being able to hear it. So i can watch the numbers and never let it burn up again. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Leimkuhler

cgraham1 said:


> I got this 272xp for free. I had to put a different handle and top cover on it. It came with a 32" bar, but I swapped it out for a 24" I had. $85 total investment!
> 
> I thought I had a better picture, I will take another one later! 160 psi and runs strong!
> View attachment 356280


Were did you get that hose for your compression tester, I bought a universal and the 14 wiggles a little in the husky heads and won't even screw into my sthils. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cgraham1

I got my tester at a yard sale for $5. It was new and the receipt was in the case. I believe it came from an auto parts store, but I can't remember which one? No problems with it yet


----------



## Leimkuhler

Hell yea, that's a deal. I paid 25 for mine and it only reads husky, if a rig it up all weird lol. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MGoBlue

435, 357, 394 My 3 saw plan is complete!


----------



## Dilly

I now NEED a 85-100cc saw only what kind I think a 390xp would be of much value to me


----------



## Leimkuhler

Get the 880 magnum it's like a 120 cc or something lol 








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dilly

well that might do some of the work i need it for haha especially the milling


----------



## cgraham1

Dilly said:


> I now NEED a 85-100cc saw only what kind I think a 390xp would be of much value to me


Since this is a Husky thread...
288


----------



## Dilly

A nice 288 would be sweet have to be ported though [emoji3]


Sent from the international space station


----------



## rattler362

here are a few.


----------



## Leimkuhler

rattler362 said:


> here are a few.


What's in front of the 257 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MGoBlue




----------



## rattler362

Leimkuhler said:


> What's in front of the 257
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That is a 268.


----------



## farrell

Fresh cut maple for yall!


----------



## chainsawman2011

briantutt said:


> *357XP Needles*
> 
> Does anyone know the best way to take the plastic limiter things off the high and low speed needles so I can rebuild the carb? I don't want to break them. I posted this in a seperate thread but this one is more active...


 well what I do is remove carb from saw and take carb over to the chain grinder and carefully grind them off. taking the plastic away enough on one side so you can twist them off with pliers. kind of a takes a bit but works well


----------



## MGoBlue

If I remember correctly, I used a long small dremel bit and ground mine off. Definitely didn't remove the carb.


----------



## briantutt

My 3 saw plan! Hard at work.


----------



## farmrboy

My first year running something other than McCullouch. They make a damn good team. The 390 pulls like a tractor


----------



## Ronaldo

Nice saws farmrboy, the hat is pretty neat also!


----------



## farmrboy

Thanks. Couldn't be happier with them. The 390 came from a fellow member. He sent along a new muffler to replace the dented one on the saw. It's going to get another port added before I install it. Do a search on ebay for husqvarna hat. The seller puts up one or 2 a week. There's matching tshirts, too


----------



## treesmith




----------



## treesmith

Bull ants eating my 288


----------



## clymerc

My new to me 550xp. Guy I bought it from used it once. Bought it when hurricane Sandy came through pa here. Hasn't used it since. Took it off his hands for $400.


----------



## 67L36Driver

My only Husqvarna. Old war horse model 65. Searching for air filter and cover.



I don't tend to collect plastic.

I'd like a 380 to go with him.


----------



## briantutt

Did you snap a pic after getting it back up to speed?


----------



## jbighump

Like the run forest hat lol...


----------



## TIMBERTRON

lots of huskies


----------



## 67L36Driver

briantutt said:


> Did you snap a pic after getting it back up to speed?



Yup. Here he is:





Dairy farmer friend liked him so much he talked me into selling him.
Waiting on another from forum member.

You get a filter for yours Brian? Four used for 30 bux showed up on evilbay.


----------



## 67L36Driver

On a husky streak I put a new 46mm top end on a 50 Rancher. Had the cylinder spigot turned down to fit the crankcase.





Still have him tuned rich till the ring seats.


----------



## 67L36Driver

I thought this thread was a sticky.

This Tapatalk sorts things kind of queer.


----------



## sunfish

359 with oem 357xp top-end.


----------



## briantutt

67L36Driver said:


> Yup. Here he is:
> View attachment 389158
> 
> View attachment 389159
> 
> 
> Dairy farmer friend liked him so much he talked me into selling him.
> Waiting on another from forum member.
> 
> You get a filter for yours Brian? Four used for 30 bux showed up on evilbay.


 
Looks Good! Glad it worked out. I have a filter on mine, I cut with this saw everytime I go out for wood.


----------



## briantutt

My 41 is doing something goofy. Whenever I start it it runs then when I try to give it gas to rev up it dies, like it's running out of fuel. I have tried tuning it over and over, cannot make it stop. I didn't do anything to this saw after I picked it up except replace the chain brake. So I suppose it could have picked up something in the carb? It just seems wierd that it ran fine for a year and then starts acting up. It was my new favorite limbing saw.


----------



## Homelite410

Wanted to share this quilt my wife made for my friends son. This is her second husky quilt, both if which were made on a Husqvarna viking sapphire 835 sewing machine!


----------



## sunfish

briantutt said:


> My 41 is doing something goofy. Whenever I start it it runs then when I try to give it gas to rev up it dies, like it's running out of fuel. I have tried tuning it over and over, cannot make it stop. I didn't do anything to this saw after I picked it up except replace the chain brake. So I suppose it could have picked up something in the carb? It just seems wierd that it ran fine for a year and then starts acting up. It was my new favorite limbing saw.


Air leak or carb problem. First thing I check is the fuel line & usually replace if I don't know how old it it. Fuel filter & tank vent too, just to get the easy stuff out of the way.


----------



## briantutt

Maybe this fuel line is getting pinched between the back air filter piece and the idle screw. Looks sort of kinked. Should it be behind the idle screw?


----------



## MGoBlue




----------



## SawTroll

sunfish said:


> 359 with oem 357xp top-end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....



...and what looks like a Norwegian made original Husky 18" lminated bar. Those bars are light, - and even though they aren't the longest lating ones, I like them!


----------



## briantutt

I replace the fuel line in the 41. Still doing the same thing. Maybe the duck bill behind the vent is not working. Looks like . it may be a chore to get to that part of the saw. I could rebuild carb first and see if that fixes it.


----------



## calebng15

briantutt said:


> I replace the fuel line in the 41. Still doing the same thing. Maybe the duck bill behind the vent is not working. Looks like . it may be a chore to get to that part of the saw. I could rebuild carb first and see if that fixes it.



Dirt on the carb screen?


----------



## briantutt

It has one of the good sintered filters in it but it sure seems like it is starving for fuel. Revs up and dies and needle position seems relatively ineffective.


----------



## gulity1

Brain is the tank full ? I had the same problem out a 288 the tank breather was plugged or not working I popped out the white filter thing and all is well leaked a lil fuel on its side so I put a new tank breather in its fine now just an FYI


----------



## Ronaldo

The fuel filter may look ok and still have too much resistance and not be allowing enough flow to the carb. I have seen it before..........ask me how I know!!!!


----------



## briantutt

How do you know?


----------



## 67L36Driver

briantutt said:


> How do you know?



When it runs right after you put in the new filter.

Brian: Did you ever get an air filter for your 65?

I snagged a 77 carcass not too long ago with a good filter and you are welcome to it.

The filter that is.


----------



## Ronaldo

briantutt said:


> How do you know?


Just had to ask, didnt ya. I have seen the filters look just fine and assume that all is well, then try to blow through them and air will hardly flow. Put a new filter on and no more starving problem. Sometimes you learn the hard way, but those lessons are well remembered!


----------



## briantutt

Okay I will pop in a new one and see what I get


----------



## briantutt

Our CFO at work gave me his Husky 55 today. Something is broken with the chain tensioner. It looks almost new!


----------



## briantutt

This is a pic of my newly gifted 55. Does this area where the chain tensioner is look okay? Does the sheet metal look right? The only thing that appears wrong is the bolt is bent.


----------



## briantutt

Also, Here is a pic of the vent screen on the Husky 41 that won't stay running. How do you get it out?


----------



## briantutt

With a little advice from Modified Mark I got the filter out. Drill small hole insert word screw and pull it out.


----------



## wyk

281XP


----------



## Full Chisel

Here's my Huskies. They've seen a lot of hard work lately cutting up a 45" DBH Red Oak!


----------



## MGoBlue

Wow, what a shame. Someone lost a lotta shade!! They would have made some nice lumber.
Great pic of some awesome saws! Looks like you've gave 'em quite the workout.


----------



## 67L36Driver

Full Chisel said:


> Here's my Huskies. They've seen a lot of hard work lately cutting up a 45" DBH Red Oak!



That front yard is going to look naked without a tree or two. Should have planted another long ago.


----------



## Ronaldo

Nice picture of a couple good saws, and yeah, a shame that tree had to go!!


----------



## Homelite410




----------



## Jon1212

The 359 was a low hour saw with a smoked piston that I picked up for $50. I had it rebuilt, Woods Ported, and muffler modded for my 15 year old son.
The 372XPW had a bad piston, and an inner spike mount screw broken off in the case. It cost me $100, and a dozen Gourmet Doughnuts. It was also rebuilt, Woods Ported, and muffler modded. 
The 395XP I purchased from Wigglesworth a little while ago.


----------



## briantutt

Our friends from TX showed up yesterday with a homemade trunk. What's inside?




The Husqvarna fairy has arrived!




Not sure of the condition other than dirty. None of them are frozen.





1x 268
2x 266
1x 162

The 162 is ALL metal!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk


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## briantutt

Here is the verdict on the 268. Pulled the muffler to inspect. Cylinder wall looks good on opposite side. Some streaking on exhaust but I think the ring is stuck in the groove because spark plug is in and it is pretty easy to turn with the clutch by hand. Is tearing her all the way down for further inspection in order? She is really dirty as you can see.






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## kz1000

Looks like a great score, a lot of parts if nothing else.


----------



## fearofpavement

Clean it well before you tear it down. Which is required in this case.


----------



## briantutt

I can block off the muffler port and pull flywheel and clutch and separate gas tank that should let me get down and spray most of the crap off. I should probably pull the cylinder to inspect I suppose.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk


----------



## 67L36Driver

Cleaning powerhead: What works for me.
Remove rewind, clutch cover and top plastic. Baggie over the intake with rubber band. Using a real parts brush, paint brush (for the small places) and mineral spirits get most of the heavy crap removed. Spray it down with foaming engine degreaser from O'Reilleys. Let that soak while I hook up the garden hose in the laundry room. Hot water side. Spray it off with the nozzle set on 'jet'. Stay away from the muffler outlet. Let it dry off in the sun turning frequently to drain the water. Either get it running right away or tear it down in case water got in the cylinder/crankcase.

Makes for a more pleasant rebuild.


----------



## briantutt

Using 67L36Driver method I got can of engine degreaser and went for. Saw is actually orange under all that! Not sure what is going on with the side of the case under clutch but that is non functional anyway.













Also, apparently she is old enough that the cylinder bolts are not metric? Wierd.

Brian


----------



## briantutt

This one will be getting new seals. Poured mix in the crank area to rinse it. Drained right out the fly wheel side seal. Good thing is bearings feel tight and p&c look fine ring is just a little stuck on one side. Probably will replace it.

Brian


----------



## 67L36Driver

briantutt said:


> This one will be getting new seals. Poured mix in the crank area to rinse it. Drained right out the fly wheel side seal. Good thing is bearings feel tight and p&c look fine ring is just a little stuck on one side. Probably will replace it.
> 
> Brian


That always loosens up grit that gets in the ball bearings. Numerous rinse cycles and shop air from a blow gun will get it out.
Just did a J-Red. Had to split the case to get the trash out of the bearings. Turned out fine.

Once you get it turning smooth, squirt some mix oil on them.


----------



## briantutt

Here is why the ring was stuck. A little carbon scoring folded into the groove.




Brian


----------



## briantutt

Down to the splitting of the case. I did this on my 65 but I can't recall how. There are three small unused threaded holes around the flywheel side of the crank. I could use a flywheel puller if I procure the correct screws. I can't recall how I split the case on the 65 without the puller they show in the shop manual. 

Any tricks?


----------



## briantutt

Scratch that I recalled how


Brian


----------



## briantutt

So I started poking around fleebay to see what some of the missing parts are going for. I start to notice the 166 and 266 mentioned along with the 268 in descriptions especially for crank case items. It seems (even though the many IPLS I have now don't indicate) that all three models are 66 cc and 50 mm bore. In fact maybe all the crank cases are the same. My new plan may be pull all 4 down and make 2 or 3 working saws from the parts. The crank case on the 268 is a little worse for the wear which is what got me to digging.


Brian


----------



## briantutt

I wrote 166 I meant 162 

Brian


----------



## Artemis

Here's my Husqvarna 445. I modded the muffler slightly by opening up the exit port and removing the spark arrestor. This saw serves me well! Very powerful for its size and nothing but reliable.


----------



## briantutt

I split the case but how do I get the crank out of the other case half? 

Brian


----------



## briantutt

Texas must have some wierd critters. Never mind the muffler mod on the 162 but because of it you can look directly into the exhaust port. Completely filled with what appears to be white caulk bur of course is not. One of the air intakes on the 268 had the same thing but it cleaned out.







Dug into the worse of the two 266s. This one may be a case donor to the 268 or it will get the 268 top end. Piston looks roasted from this view [emoji22] 






Brian


----------



## 67L36Driver

I bet that ran like poop. Caused the lean seize to boot.


----------



## 67L36Driver

Brian: I have two or three J-red 630/670 mufflers that will fit that if you want. They will need a deflector fabricated to protect the chain brake handle.


----------



## briantutt

I might take you up on that. I think all 4 mufflers are toast, rusted out 

Brian


----------



## half

briantutt said:


> Down to the splitting of the case. I did this on my 65 but I can't recall how. There are three small unused threaded holes around the flywheel side of the crank. I could use a flywheel puller if I procure the correct screws. I can't recall how I split the case on the 65 without the puller they show in the shop manual.
> 
> Any tricks?


easy put a roll bar behind the flywheel against the block Loosen the nut until it is flush with the end of the crankshaft, give the end of the crank a tap with a hammer while putting pressure on the bar, that will pop the flywheel off the taper Any flywheel held with a taper will do the same, I have done heaps of B/S engines the same way


----------



## briantutt

162 SE ready for degreaser. Too rainy right now. Then I will split case right away because clutch side bearing is exposed when oiler is removed.






Brian


----------



## 67L36Driver

On the filthy ones, I plastic Baggie the air filter, remove top, clutch and rewind covers. Dig most of the crap off with mineral spirits and parts brush. Spray it down with foaming engine degreaser and hose them off with hot water from the laundry room.

Saves getting crap in the crankcase when I pull the top end.


----------



## hoskvarna

Got this one at a local pawn shop,would not turn over and filthy.
After inspection ,ring was broken and crank bearings locked up.
P&C looked good. completly tore it down,cleaned,new caber ring,crank bearings and seals,new av mounts,and modded the muffler.
looks like new,cant believe how the plastic is not faded,like most u see.
needs some fine tunin yet,will make someone a nice saw.


----------



## briantutt

I like me 55 too!

Brian


----------



## briantutt

Now the fun begins!






Brian


----------



## MGoBlue

Does look like fun!


----------



## Welder56

254xpg that I did a complete rebuild on. Started no problem but have an air leak I believe. So will vac and pressure test in the next day or so and find where it's at

Top cover doesn't do it justice but non the less


----------



## gunnusmc03

Bump


----------



## briantutt

Case splitter coming in the mail so I will continue this journey soon.

Brian


----------



## farmerward

my 576XPAT


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Ronaldo

farmerward said:


> my 576XPAT
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Smooth Operator right there!!


----------



## cary911

View attachment 450664
View attachment 450665
View attachment 450664
View attachment 450665

View attachment 450664
View attachment 450665

The 1st photo includes a Husqvarna SxS that was a gift.


----------



## cary911

gunnusmc03 said:


> Bump View attachment 450142


That's a nice saw. The Stihl bar looks good on husky's for some reason.


----------



## cary911




----------



## cary911




----------



## briantutt

I started a lonely thread about the 4 dead saw rebuild. It is lightly travelled. If anyone is bored please jump over there and see my last couple questions. I am almost to the point of deciding to make 2 or 3 saws from the four and the cylinder/piston question is especially making me curious.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/index.php?threads/286153/

Brian


----------



## blsnelling

Bump for another member


----------



## turtle561

cary911-nice double barrel, what are the particulars ?


----------



## cary911

turtle561 said:


> cary911-nice double barrel, what are the particulars ?


Thank You............This was a gift from "Gander Mountain".......The party had to sign a waiver "Shoot at your own risk" "Not recommended" Etc....

12 Ga. They stated possibly late 1800's?. No chamber length engraved, paper shells Id imagine.

Crisp Hammer's and Trigger. Solid Action, beautiful patina. $399.


----------



## cary911

Intruder................"Stop....Or I'll Blow My Face Off"


----------



## cary911

Husqvarna.


----------



## cary911

390xp


----------



## cary911

395xp


----------



## cary911

Oregon Pro.


----------



## cary911

Bars...I don't know?.........Hell,....Which One?


----------



## cary911

Husqvarna?


----------



## briantutt

Single branded saw plan

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## cary911

I hate the "Bar" Scene......................


----------



## cary911

Found a "Windsor" 28" .325 for the 550


----------



## briantutt

what is the deal with blue husky parts? Saw a blue top cover in a different thread too.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## cary911

briantutt said:


> what is the deal with blue husky parts? Saw a blue top cover in a different thread too.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


it restricts the flow of air into the carb area so warmed air will help keep the carb from icing up............and warms your socks......hell I don't know? <27 degrees F. I Think.


----------



## cary911




----------



## cary911




----------



## SCOTTS_4X

562xp 
450 rancher


----------



## cary911

My "Stihl" dealer can no longer "Spin Chain".........due to liability.

Additionally........"Stihl" will not order me a "loop" that wont fit an odd ball bar.....(33" Cannon) for example!

Either the dealer is full of ****............or truth?............Im done.


----------



## sunfish

cary911 said:


> My "Stihl" dealer can no longer "Spin Chain".........due to liability.
> 
> Additionally........"Stihl" will not order me a "loop" that wont fit an odd ball bar.....(33" Cannon) for example!
> 
> Either the dealer is full of ****............or truth?............Im done.


I order all my chain here; http://www.loggerchain.com/ F*** Stihl chain!


----------



## Andyshine77

cary911 said:


> My "Stihl" dealer can no longer "Spin Chain".........due to liability.
> 
> Additionally........"Stihl" will not order me a "loop" that wont fit an odd ball bar.....(33" Cannon) for example!
> 
> Either the dealer is full of ****............or truth?............Im done.



Your dealer is full of ****!


----------



## Big Block

My 2 saw plan. Next is a 394 for some milling and a 262xp,562xp,357xp,2260,

Or hell maybe even an Echo 620p 
So many decisions


----------



## Big Block

Well **** I don't know why it's upside-down


----------



## cary911

Big Block said:


> Well **** I don't know why it's upside-down


Lmao..........................


----------



## 13TreeWorks

sunfish said:


> I order all my chain here; http://www.loggerchain.com/ F*** Stihl chain!


That seems pricy .... ive been buying woodland pro from bailys ...... its not the greatest out of the box but after you set the rakers and give it a once over with the file it run as good as anything else


----------



## husq2100

back on topic....


----------



## Ronaldo

13TreeWorks said:


> That seems pricy .... ive been buying woodland pro from bailys ...... its not the greatest out of the box but after you set the rakers and give it a once over with the file it run as good as anything else


The woodland pro is Carlton, at least has been, and I get along fine with it.


----------



## 13TreeWorks

Ronaldo said:


> The woodland pro is Carlton, at least has been, and I get along fine with it.


Carlton yep Sure is ..... everything but the box. Last one I pulled out had rakers at .005 on one side and .025 the other that and I dident like the way the gullet of the tooth looked fresh from the factory but I think it was like 12$ for a 38 .050 72 DL .... cutters choice comes close if I recall ..... stihl chain snobs crack me up nighbor just paid over 30$ for a 20" stihl yellow in the blister pack..... wtf over ..... hey how did I end up on in hooskie land


----------



## TBS

My 534xp rated for max 3 inch diameter wood.


----------



## Big Block

I've never ran one of those. Do they haul ass ?


----------



## TBS

They do pretty well.


----------



## rynosawr

husq2100 said:


> back on topic....
> 
> View attachment 511029




So, is that a brand new, never ran 288?

Either way, it is awesome!


----------



## husq2100

rynosawr said:


> So, is that a brand new, never ran 288?
> 
> Either way, it is awesome!



not quite, just VERY low hrs. I went right through it, cylinder and piston look like theyve done bugger all. All machine marks still there etc.


----------



## briantutt

will a husky 268 pull a 32 inch or 36 inch bar and chain? they don't seem to make longer than 28 inches for my 362XP. what groove width on long bars? .050, .058, .063?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## Adam08ski

I have a 154se how good were/are they?

I also have a 371 w/372xp top end, not bothered about hearing about that as I know how they are rated.

Not much on this 154se though


----------



## weimedog

Adam08ski said:


> I have a 154se how good were/are they?
> 
> I also have a 371 w/372xp top end, not bothered about hearing about that as I know how they are rated.
> 
> Not much on this 154se though


 They are about as cool as 254's...


----------



## lewis16

After being a stihl guy since day one, it doesn't rip as much as my 461 did, but it's smooth as butter. 






Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## SawTroll

Adam08ski said:


> I have a 154se how good were/are they?
> 
> I also have a 371 w/372xp top end, not bothered about hearing about that as I know how they are rated.
> 
> Not much on this 154se though



There isn't much difference between a late 154 and an early 254 - there were more differences between different "generations" of the 254.


----------



## cary911

Courtesy of Members Fortitude......Thank You.


----------



## cary911




----------



## Massey

Need your advice to be sure if this 298 xp could be a good investment for 100 euros , it starts now but like you can see it is missing a muffler . I think it the same on the 2100/2101 xp .


----------



## mgr

Send it to me and you got your investment back.


----------



## brandonstc6

Does anyone remember the Husqvarna 140S? I have one now and I am going to try to get it going sometime soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ML12

I put a big bore (huztl) kit on my 50, along with the decompression valve, but the decomp interferes with the chain brake flag/mechanism. Is this a common issue? Do I have to get a 55 clutch cover/chain brake?


----------



## Adam08ski

ML12 said:


> I put a big bore (huztl) kit on my 50, along with the decompression valve, but the decomp interferes with the chain brake flag/mechanism. Is this a common issue? Do I have to get a 55 clutch cover/chain brake?



Do you need a decomp on a sub 70cc saw? If not plug it with a bolt and a compression washer.. that's what I would do. (making sure it is short enough to no interfer with the piston)

Never used one on my old 254xp that I think would have been a tad harder to pull. Nor on my current 038mag and 044. they are both 70+cc and start easy without a decomp.

WHERE THERE IS A WILL THERE IS ALWAYS A WAY


----------



## ML12

Its had the base cut, and squish is just under 0.020" the timing has also been advanced a few degrees. I'm fairly certain that without the decomp the starter wouldn't last very long as its just plastic. I had it plugged but couldn't turn it over fast/even enough to get it to start originally.


----------



## wcorey

brandonstc6 said:


> Does anyone remember the Husqvarna 140S? I have one now and I am going to try to get it going sometime soon.



I recently acquired one, neat little saw, kind of heavy but seems very solidly constructed.
Mine runs but unfortunately is missing the entire clutch and cover, along with the threaded end of the crank...


----------



## weimedog

Massey said:


> Need your advice to be sure if this 298 xp could be a good investment for 100 euros , it starts now but like you can see it is missing a muffler . I think it the same on the 2100/2101 xp . View attachment 562250
> View attachment 562251
> View attachment 562252


They are an absolute beast! almost 100 cc saw. What does 100 euro's convert to in dollars? A 298 complete and running for under $200 dollars is a great deal. Figure they are the last of the 2100 class saws and there is a following for those big saws.


----------



## brandonstc6

wcorey said:


> I recently acquired one, neat little saw, kind of heavy but seems very solidly constructed.
> Mine runs but unfortunately is missing the entire clutch and cover, along with the threaded end of the crank...



That's a tough one to fix, maybe you can find a parts saw. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## brandonstc6

wcorey said:


> I recently acquired one, neat little saw, kind of heavy but seems very solidly constructed.
> Mine runs but unfortunately is missing the entire clutch and cover, along with the threaded end of the crank...



Mine has a slightly scored piston and low compression. It shows 130psi on my gauge but I think my gauge is reading about 15psi too high. I found a NOS piston and cylinder on eBay for $135 but I don't believe it's worth putting that much into it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## brandonstc6

Looking through the plug hole at the cylinder wall, it doesn't look good. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wcorey

brandonstc6 said:


> Looking through the plug hole at the cylinder wall, it doesn't look good.



More times than not a saw that shows some compression has a good chance that the cylinder can be cleaned up. With a bit of luck the piston can be cleaned up too and just a new ring will get you going again.
You won't know 'till you pop the cylinder off so...


----------



## brandonstc6

wcorey said:


> More times than not a saw that shows some compression has a good chance that the cylinder can be cleaned up. With a bit of luck the piston can be cleaned up too and just a new ring will get you going again.
> You won't know 'till you pop the cylinder off so...



Eventually I will pull the cylinder and see. Supposedly it ran on gas in the carburetor. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bigbadbob

New to me,,


----------



## tomdcoker

I am glad I found this thread finally. Apparently I am not very observantly, but I have a husky 3120 parts saw and need some parts to complete it. It is probably the only 3120 within 200 miles of me and I have been looking for about 2 years to no avail. It would be economically infeasible to use new parts or even Ebay parts. I need several small parts and some major parts, clutch, sprocket and muffler. If anyone has a parts saw that they would sell no matter what condition please let me know and if it has at least some of the parts that I need I will try to buy it. I do not need a piston or cylinder, carb, top cover or rear handle. Any help would be appreciated. Tom


----------



## chuckwood

I've just built my second Husky L77. These are vintage saws, 77cc, made in the 70's - early 80's, pro grade, simple and very rugged saws. The L65 is basically the same saw just with a smaller 65cc cylinder. I find these cheap sometimes as parts saws, and rebuild them. I split the cases and start over with new gaskets, bearings, and seals. My next basket job rebuild will be an L65 and a 288 xp. The parts are all in the baskets, just need the time to do it.


----------



## svk

chuckwood said:


> I've just built my second Husky L77. These are vintage saws, 77cc, made in the 70's - early 80's, pro grade, simple and very rugged saws. The L65 is basically the same saw just with a smaller 65cc cylinder. I find these cheap sometimes as parts saws, and rebuild them. I split the cases and start over with new gaskets, bearings, and seals. My next basket job rebuild will be an L65 and a 288 xp. The parts are all in the baskets, just need the time to do it.
> 
> View attachment 564234
> View attachment 564235
> View attachment 564236


What do you do with them when they are done?


----------



## chuckwood

svk said:


> What do you do with them when they are done?



Well, I seem to have a form of mental illness known as CAD, or "chainsaw acquisition disorder". I reckon one of these days some of them will be offered on Ebay or Craigs List. I use the L77's sometimes for milling the smaller logs.


----------



## svk

chuckwood said:


> Well, I seem to have a form of mental illness known as CAD, or "chainsaw acquisition disorder". I reckon one of these days some of them will be offered on Ebay or Craigs List. I use the L77's sometimes for milling the smaller logs.


Should you decide to part with a 77 someday please look me up. The only ones I find around here are either needing full rebuilds or are original saws priced too high to risk buying from an unknown seller.


----------



## brandonstc6

chuckwood said:


> I've just built my second Husky L77. These are vintage saws, 77cc, made in the 70's - early 80's, pro grade, simple and very rugged saws. The L65 is basically the same saw just with a smaller 65cc cylinder. I find these cheap sometimes as parts saws, and rebuild them. I split the cases and start over with new gaskets, bearings, and seals. My next basket job rebuild will be an L65 and a 288 xp. The parts are all in the baskets, just need the time to do it.
> 
> View attachment 564234
> View attachment 564235
> View attachment 564236



I have parts. Shoot me a pm if your interested. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chuckwood

svk said:


> Should you decide to part with a 77 someday please look me up. The only ones I find around here are either needing full rebuilds or are original saws priced too high to risk buying from an unknown seller.



Will do. The issue with the L77's is pistons and cylinders for them are very hard to find. Not so with the more common L65's. On rare occasions, a brand new L77 shows up on ebay at an astronomical price, and advertised as a rare, collector's saw. But I'm not that kind of collector due to budget restraints.


----------



## svk

chuckwood said:


> Will do. The issue with the L77's is pistons and cylinders for them are very hard to find. Not so with the more common L65's. On rare occasions, a brand new L77 shows up on ebay at an astronomical price, and advertised as a rare, collector's saw. But I'm not that kind of collector due to budget restraints.


Iirc Golf is about the only reputable brand of 77 pistons? I looked at doing a conversion a while back.


----------



## svk

There's a nice 480, needs recoil on the chainsaw FB site. Tempting!


----------



## chuckwood

svk said:


> There's a nice 480, needs recoil on the chainsaw FB site. Tempting!



I just saw a used 480 piston and cylinder on ebay going for $200. As far as I know, this is also the same p & c used in the L77. The entire series of "80" saws, starting with the 180, seem very scarce, they are rarely offered for sale on the bay, and I've also noticed that spare parts are also few and far between. That's not the case with the L65. I've been sawing this afternoon with one of my L65's.


----------



## chuckwood

svk said:


> Iirc Golf is about the only reputable brand of 77 pistons? I looked at doing a conversion a while back.



Pistons are a complicated issue for the L series saws. They are stamped in the metal with the letters from A to D, and you need to match the letters stamped on the jugs and pistons as close as possible. A size "A" piston will have a sloppy fit in a "D" cylinder. A well used size C cylinder could take a used size D piston for best fit. I think Husky quit doing this after they stopped with the L series saws. As far as I know, the Golf pistons are on the lower part of the scale as to quality. But I'm using a Golf piston in a Husky 350 and it's worked fine for three years intermittent use so far.


----------



## briantutt

the 162, 266, 268 project I did revealed the same stamping practice 

Brian


----------



## Massey

weimedog said:


> They are an absolute beast! almost 100 cc saw. What does 100 euro's convert to in dollars? A 298 complete and running for under $200 dollars is a great deal. Figure they are the last of the 2100 class saws and there is a following for those big saws.


100 euros is about the same in Us dollars , she will come tomorrow and I can't wait more !


----------



## svk

chuckwood said:


> I've just built my second Husky L77. These are vintage saws, 77cc, made in the 70's - early 80's, pro grade, simple and very rugged saws. The L65 is basically the same saw just with a smaller 65cc cylinder. I find these cheap sometimes as parts saws, and rebuild them. I split the cases and start over with new gaskets, bearings, and seals. My next basket job rebuild will be an L65 and a 288 xp. The parts are all in the baskets, just need the time to do it.
> 
> View attachment 564234
> View attachment 564235
> View attachment 564236


What is the back story behind the painted chain?


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## chuckwood

svk said:


> What is the back story behind the painted chain?



It's a Forester brand chain that came with a new Forester bar. I like the bar, but the chain that came with it cuts poorly, even when brand new. It cuts a wider kerf at a slower speed, unlike all my other chains. I use Forester chain for cutting stumps down to ground level, and painted it to avoid getting it mixed up with my good chains.


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## svk

chuckwood said:


> It's a Forester brand chain that came with a new Forester bar. I like the bar, but the chain that came with it cuts poorly, even when brand new. It cuts a wider kerf at a slower speed, unlike all my other chains. I use Forester chain for cutting stumps down to ground level, and painted it to avoid getting it mixed up with my good chains.


Ah makes sense!

My low profile saws use different lengths of chains for the same length of bar. I have considered painting all of the chains for one saw one color and the others a different color so I can quickly know what I am grabbing without having to count whether it is 50 or 52 DL etc. 

I would assume that the paint between the rivets never wears away so you can always tell which one you have?


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## president

bigbadbob said:


> New to me,,View attachment 564194


nice shape Bob,I came across a 2100se for 25 bucks ,needed fuel line and carb rebuild
collecting any spare parts available due to scarcity.Imshipping 2 090s to Indianna
the 2 in nice shape you looked at Keith


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## president

chuckwood said:


> Will do. The issue with the L77's is pistons and cylinders for them are very hard to find. Not so with the more common L65's. On rare occasions, a brand new L77 shows up on ebay at an astronomical price, and advertised as a rare, collector's saw. But I'm not that kind of collector due to budget restraints.


they are the points version of the 480 cd


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## bigbadbob

president said:


> nice shape Bob,I came across a 2100se for 25 bucks ,needed fuel line and carb rebuild
> collecting any spare parts available due to scarcity.Imshipping 2 090s to Indianna
> the 2 in nice shape you looked at Keith


I bet you can retire now!!

Got this today,, did you miss it??? $225 Canadian ($167.00 USD) 
Salmon Arm


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## Ronaldo

bigbadbob said:


> I bet you can retire now!!
> 
> Got this today,, did you miss it??? $225 Salmon Arm
> View attachment 564676
> View attachment 564677
> View attachment 564678


 OOOOOH! I like the ones with heat!


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## president

bigbadbob said:


> I bet you can retire now!!
> 
> Got this today,, did you miss it??? $225 Canadian ($167.00 USD)
> Salmon Arm
> View attachment 564676
> View attachment 564677
> View attachment 564678


your horseshoes have industrial magnets on em Bob


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## Massey

Nice finds on those Husqy's . So let me tell you my story about the 298 ... The seller didn't ship the right saw to me and it took a big time to get mine . I knew it was missing a muffler so I bought a 2101 xp for parts wich is in great shape but has a dead P/C . Today the 298 arrived and when I took a look in that exhaust port I saw the misery : same as 2101 




I think I'll have to replace bearings  and find a cylinder for these saw will take probably a big time


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## president

svk said:


> Should you decide to part with a 77 someday please look me up. The only ones I find around here are either needing full rebuilds or are original saws priced too high to risk buying from an unknown seller.


the 480 cd should be an easier find L77 with capacitor discharge ignition


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## mgr

Massey said:


> Nice finds on those Husqy's . So let me tell you my story about the 298 ... The seller didn't ship the right saw to me and it took a big time to get mine . I knew it was missing a muffler so I bought a 2101 xp for parts wich is in great shape but has a dead P/C . Today the 298 arrived and when I took a look in that exhaust port I saw the misery : same as 2101
> View attachment 569380
> View attachment 569379
> View attachment 569378
> 
> I think I'll have to replace bearings  and find a cylinder for these saw will take probably a big time



You make me jealous.


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## warsaw

geeze, been droolin' over the vintage stuff ..so far, pity some of the pics were deleted


my 338, fabulous little saw..


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## Griffdog1

I have a few Huskies on the go at the moment. Seem to have come across a range of nice saws recently and have a few 372 rebuilders on the go at the moment as well. The Husqvarna's respond well to elbow grease and targeted repainting if restoring saws is your gig I reckon.


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## cary911

(Not Mine) ... Does anyone have "input" on the 272...... For better or worse, advantage, disadvantage. (There's one for sale at the local shop). Thank You!


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## svk

cary911 said:


> (Not Mine) ... Does anyone have "input" on the 272...... For better or worse, advantage, disadvantage. (There's one for sale at the local shop). Thank You!View attachment 569438


Pros: Easy to work on, lots of parts available, good solid saw.
Cons: None except they aren't as powerful as a 372.


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## Griffdog1

272 is a great saw that is both powerful, reliable and easy to work on. Anti Vibe is not as good as the 372 but a good 272 will dependably put wood on the fire for many years with minimum fuss. While the 372 is a better saw in most ways - many people have a real soft spot for the 272 and it is one of the great saws of the era and straddles the move from old school simple prograde saws to the move into what we see a modern saw to be with spring mount antivibe etc. 

Last incarnation of a chassis that started in 1978 with the WhiteTop 61 and then 266, to 268. Would have to be one of the most prolific crankcases in chainsawdom and with a quality Mahle cyclinder is all class in a role your sleeves up and get the job done kind of way. If its the one in the picture - that's as clean as I have seen and I would personally pay a lot for that saw.


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## Picaso

new poster and follower to this husky thread. very excited to learn and share. I wanted to get into chainsaw milling years ago and was told by someone i respected to get a 3120. found a 20 yr old one still throwing chips and ive been all husky since then. i got a 455 rancher for cutting up and scrounging firewood and use the 3120 for noodling, milling, or when bucking up something above 36" dia. husky service is disappearing in my area so im not happy about it but no plans to switch teams. 


. 3120 w 36" bar in walnut. 


. 3120 w 60" cannon super in ash


3120 


455 scrounging a 36" red oak burl butt

oh yeah


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## brandonstc6

I have a really nice looking husqvarna 365 x-torq. The cylinder and piston look great but the saw is turns over very hard like bad bearings. Does anyone know if this saw takes 6202 bearings? 
Thanks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## brandonstc6

Also will a 371k topend fit a 371xp?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cary911

svk said:


> Pros: Easy to work on, lots of parts available, good solid saw.
> Cons: None except they aren't as powerful as a 372.


Thank You.


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## woodchip rookie

New poster to the thread. Got a used 576xp a couple months ago. Just got a brand new 445 yesterday. Got an extra b&c, 3 quarts of the husky premix gas to extend the warranty to 4 years. And they threw in a hat with the deal. I bought it with a 16" bar instead of the 18 though, since I have a 20/24 for the 576. Figured I could use a smaller bar and if I need a bigger bar I'll stop playin around and break out the 576. My gf's 435 has a 16 on it and I love that saw but it bogs a little in hardwood & thats what I cut mostly so I figured a 16 with a little more power would be perfect. I picked up the 543xp and was prepared to drop the coin but it felt heavier even though the specs say its lighter. Didn't seem like it was worth another $180. The 445 was on sale for $309 & the 543xp was on sale for $479


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## woodchip rookie

I fired up the 445 & the 576 today. Had some noodling to do. Wanted to test the 445 and the new full chisel 20" on the 576. The 445 wasnt very impressive when noodling but crosscuts great. The 576 is a monster with a 20 on it. Makes me want a 395 with a 20/24.


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## TBS

woodchip rookie said:


> New poster to the thread. Got a used 576xp a couple months ago. Just got a brand new 445 yesterday. Got an extra b&c, 3 quarts of the husky premix gas to extend the warranty to 4 years. And they threw in a hat with the deal. I bought it with a 16" bar instead of the 18 though, since I have a 20/24 for the 576. Figured I could use a smaller bar and if I need a bigger bar I'll stop playin around and break out the 576. My gf's 435 has a 16 on it and I love that saw but it bogs a little in hardwood & thats what I cut mostly so I figured a 16 with a little more power would be perfect. I picked up the 543xp and was prepared to drop the coin but it felt heavier even though the specs say its lighter. Didn't seem like it was worth another $180. The 445 was on sale for $309 & the 543xp was on sale for $479



The 543xp in my experience was a much better performing saw than the 445 but at that price point they are to much. You can pick up a lightly used redmax gz4500 for 200 and get the same performance, both saws have a similar cylinder by the 543 cylinder has an offset exhaust port, centered intake port, no carburator inpulse port. The 543xp is actually a zenoah gz4300.


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## woodchip rookie

Nobody around central ohio as far as I know sells zenoahs. Where do you get them?


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## TBS

Ebay and they are used or old new stock because they stopped selling saws in the usa after they were bought by husqvarna.


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## warsaw

picked up this today for $400, 359 husky decompression model. that's quite cheap here in oz!
looks hardly used too, very clean under the cover
stoked!
i'll be getting rid of the stihl 034AV now


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## woodchip rookie

I got my 576xp w/24" for $450.....with a 20" full chisel it sounds like a little jet engine


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## warsaw

lol, this thing sounds mighty sweet too 

i used to have the older 359, always regretted selling it, but i think this is a awesome consolation
they were about $1,600 new here!


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## briantutt

Go a new top cover for the old 266! Looks pretty sharp now!


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## svk

briantutt said:


> View attachment 600603
> 
> View attachment 600602
> 
> Go a new top cover for the old 266! Looks pretty sharp now!


Well now you may as well search for mint recoil and clutch covers and new tank too


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## briantutt

right or a NIB 3120XP or 2100CD


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## woodchip rookie

I picked up (not bought) a 3120 at the dealer. I forget what size bar it had on it but thats the limit. The line for me between "the biggest I would ever need" and "AW HELL NO" is right in between my 395 and the 3120.


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## sunfish




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## Massey

New to me here some 281 and 288 need big cleanup and inspection before anything else [emoji38]
Also bought three 3120 , I just need time






Envoyé de mon GT-I9505 en utilisant Tapatalk


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## mgr




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## Massey

Saw run good but I decided to take a look to see how piston was and ... jug is in good shape but I realy don't understand how it happened . Saw is a 3120





Envoyé de mon GT-I9505 en utilisant Tapatalk


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## svk

Massey said:


> Saw run good but I decided to take a look to see how piston was and ... jug is in good shape but I realy don't understand how it happened . Saw is a 3120
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Envoyé de mon GT-I9505 en utilisant Tapatalk


I guess count your lucky stars that it puked that chunk without causing any cylinder damage!


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## Massey

svk said:


> I guess count your lucky stars that it puked that chunk without causing any cylinder damage!


Crazy thing ! 

Envoyé de mon GT-I9505 en utilisant Tapatalk


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## Massey

Look at this , not too clean on this 2100 oil tank ... Maybe it is the oil hose [emoji37]







A very nice hose repaired
Envoyé de mon GT-I9505 en utilisant Tapatalk


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## Maintenance supervisor

Does any one know the size/fitting of the bolts holding a 435 muffler on?


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## pioneer saws

My Huskies


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## huskyespañol

Hola .
Husq 346xpg
Husq 346 XP portado
Husq 359 portado
Husq 61 
Husq 372 xp xtorq


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## Huskybill

briantutt said:


> right or a NIB 3120XP or 2100CD



I been grabbing the older saws I used for decades and sold off. Now I grab what I can. The running 2100’s and non runners. Most of the non runners are a easy fix. I figure to spend money now on them with new crankbearings, seals, rings, piston and won’t have to wait for it to gernade later. Check it once and forget about it.


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## cary911

pioneer saws said:


> My Huskies
> 
> View attachment 742008




I'd love to hear that 3120 @ idle … That 880 sounds a menace


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## pioneer saws

cary911 said:


> I'd love to hear that 3120 @ idle … That 880 sounds a menace



Sounds like a dirt bike, love it.


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## Huskybill

Do I hear a dirtbike coming? Darn saws sounds like my vintage air cooled huskys. From the 480cd, 285cd, 2100cd to the 3120. If you think there saws are good get on one of there bikes. Fastest bikes on the planet, can you say desert racers?


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## acarpenterdad

576xp and a 44


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## lostone

I need to find me a Husky 41 again to replace mine. But here is my 372XT. This is a 24" bar, I also have a 28" Oregon reduced weight that I haven't put on it yet.

I plan to add a 288 deflector then send it off for some port work.


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