# Breaking in a New Chain Saw Chain



## Bruce Hopf (Aug 10, 2008)

I was wondering, how you other Guys, Break in your new Chain Saw Chains. 
I like to let my chains soak in Bar Oil plastic tub with a lid on it, for over night, and let them hang for over another night, to let the some of the excess Bar Oil drip off them into another plastic tub, so I don't get Bar Oil, all over the floor. I then install the New Chain onto the Chain Saw, and take the saw outside. 
Being that my old McCulloch Chain Saws, have Manual Oiler's as well, I pump extra Bar Oil onto the New Chain, while running the saw at mid way to wide open, but not wide open. I run the Chain Saw like this, for about 5 to 10 minutes. After that I then retighten up the New Chain, and cut wood for a few minutes, and check the chain tension again for tightness.
So I was wondering how you Fellas on AS break in your New Chains? I know that there are Makes of Chain Saws out there that do not have Manual Oilers on them, and it would be nice to see how you Guys go about New Chainsaw Chain Break in. Thanks. Bruce.


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## gafirefighter (Aug 10, 2008)

I guess I have never thought about it. I just always put a new chain on and start cutting wood. When it gets loose, I tighten it. When it gets dull, I sharpen it. When it gets old, I replace it.

I do not know if soaking it would extend the life of the chain, but it seems like if it did it would be too little to worry about for myself.

Adam


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## Blakesmaster (Aug 10, 2008)

Wow. Didn't know anyone used any kind of procedure for this. I put it on, crank it down tight, and start cutting till it looks loose. Then I tighten it up. What type of benefits does your procedure offer? 5-10 minutes of chainsaw revving on the job seems pointless to me.


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## stihl sawing (Aug 10, 2008)

Well, I guess i'm hard on one. I usually will change a rim when putting on a new chain especially if it's been on a while. But after that it just gets put on and run. I will check for tightness after a little bit.


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## Wicked500R (Aug 10, 2008)

Never heard of this one before... I put them on and bury them from the start. I will check and tighten often as needed. I agree on revving the saw for 10 minutes being useless The only time I rev the engine is to warm it up for a couple minutes or when I'm tuning it.. My saws rarely see full throttle unless it's in wood.


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## buzz sawyer (Aug 10, 2008)

I've heard of soaking them but never have - just clean the bar goove and sprocket, put em on and run. I usually don't have to adjust the tension more than once or twice on a new chain.


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## coolbrze (Aug 11, 2008)

gafirefighter said:


> I guess I have never thought about it. I just always put a new chain on and start cutting wood. When it gets loose, I tighten it. When it gets dull, I sharpen it. When it gets old, I replace it.



I do the same.


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## Cedarkerf (Aug 11, 2008)

When my chain gets dull I yank it put on a new or sharpend one.Fire up the saw check to make sure its not loose and cut.


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## gink595 (Aug 11, 2008)

I break mine in by using it!


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## GASoline71 (Aug 11, 2008)

More AS overengineering... 

Chains do not need any sort of break in period. Why on earth would anyone take 2 days to soak and hang a chain to drip dry is beyond me...

Not tryin' to be smart here... but it just doesn't make sense to me.  

Gary


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## 04ultra (Aug 11, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> More AS overengineering...
> 
> Chains do not need any sort of break in period. Why on earth would anyone take 2 days to soak and hang a chain to drip dry is beyond me...
> 
> ...





*Now Gary*...........Overengineering is a good thing......


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## Ghillie (Aug 12, 2008)

Bruce, are all the saws you run manual oilers?

That actually may be a good idea if so. Don't let the bastages get you down saying it's ovainjuneerin! :biggrinbounce2:


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## secureland (Aug 12, 2008)

I appreciate your method as well. Although, I'm not sure if it extends the lifespan of the chain. I wouldn't be afraid to stray from the technique.


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## GASoline71 (Aug 12, 2008)

Ghillie said:


> Bruce, are all the saws you run manual oilers?
> 
> That actually may be a good idea if so. Don't let the bastages get you down saying it's ovainjuneerin! :biggrinbounce2:



Oh, P-shaw... Work crews in the woods would have gone broke waitin' for their chains to "soak and hang" to "break them in"...

Lots of those big ol' manual oiler saws were used right where I am now... nobody ever soaked the chains and hung them...

My big old Homelites and Macs that I have with manual oilers, cut like a scalded dog... no soaking or hanging of chains is required... 

Gary


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## SawTroll (Aug 12, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> More AS overengineering...
> 
> Chains do not need any sort of break in period. Why on earth would anyone take 2 days to soak and hang a chain to drip dry is beyond me...
> 
> ...



....or Oregon overenegineering........... 

I believe Oregon recommends _about_ what the initial post described, but to a lesser extent.

I did what Oregon decribes a couple of times some years ago, but I soon quit doing it - as I don't really see the point either.......


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## KsWoodsMan (Aug 12, 2008)

I don't pick up a saw daily, but when I do I want it to work reliably and not give it any second thoughts. I don't have a stack of spare bars or loops at my disposal but new chains get run a bit to 'wear in' with some extra 30w oil added to the bar to float out anything left behind by another chain. Old chains get cleaned up by shaking in a can of kerosene, blown dry and stored in some ND 30W till they get used again.

Some people go through enough chains, bars and rims that they are considered a dispoable item. I like to see mine last and try to "get all the goody out of them" that I can. Might be the difference between cutting for a living and cutting for heat, making a living by other means.

If it works for you why change it ?


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## Fish (Aug 12, 2008)

I soak all of mine in "Marvel Mystery Oil" for a week, it impregnates the steel
and my chains last 47.5% longer on the Stihl chains, and 67.388% longer
on Oregon, and prevents them from ripping apart on the first cut.

Tri-link doesn't need any help...............


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## trimmmed (Aug 12, 2008)

Fish said:


> I soak all of mine in "Marvel Mystery Oil" for a week, it impregnates the steel
> and my chains last 47.5% longer on the Stihl chains, and 67.388% longer
> on Oregon, and prevents them from ripping apart on the first cut.
> 
> Tri-link doesn't need any help...............



Marvel Mystery Oil rocks! I've had great success using it to pre-condition my bar nuts. After that treatment and if i don't lose them, I find that those nuts will last the lifetime of the saw.


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## Fish (Aug 12, 2008)

Marvel Mystery oil is great, but it discolors my nuts when I soak them in it,
but they do stay cooler............


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## rbtree (Aug 12, 2008)

Fish said:


> Marvel Mystery oil is great, but it discolors my nuts when I soak them in it,
> but they do stay cooler............




ROTFLMFAO...


maybe try soaking them in cider........


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## mantis (Aug 12, 2008)

Fish said:


> Marvel Mystery oil is great, but it discolors my nuts when I soak them in it,
> but they do stay cooler............



Your not supposed to sit in is fish


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## mantis (Aug 12, 2008)

I do know that my brother soaks his chain for his hay bailer in oil. He says it helps it from stretching as quickly.When I put a new chain on I do put oil on the bar and make sure that it is well lubed, by manually rotating the chain around for a few spins.Then put some more on for good messure. And then I go for broke and let her rip. I believe that the chains are already soaked in oil. I know that mine are covered in it when I get them


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## Ghillie (Aug 12, 2008)

Fish said:


> Marvel Mystery oil is great, but it discolors my nuts when I soak them in it,
> but they do stay cooler............



I agree... I don't mind the odd color as long as they don't chafe!

How do you get over the initial burn?


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## Ghillie (Aug 12, 2008)

rbtree said:


> ROTFLMFAO...
> 
> 
> maybe try soaking them in cider........



That one I'll just leave be.


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## RAYINTOMBALL (Aug 12, 2008)

trimmmed said:


> Marvel Mystery Oil rocks! I've had great success using it to pre-condition my bar nuts. After that treatment and if i don't lose them, I find that those nuts will last the lifetime of the saw.




My bar and nuts do find without conditioning! And I try not to lose them to often. And yes I hope my nuts last a lifetime to.


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## Nitroman (Aug 12, 2008)

I soak a chain in oil overnight, but then wipe it off as I don't have any convenient place to hang them.


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## stihl sawing (Aug 12, 2008)

LOL, I think this thread is going this way.


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## Fish (Aug 12, 2008)

rbtree said:


> ROTFLMFAO...
> 
> 
> maybe try soaking them in cider........



Now, no derailing this thread and going off topic!!!!

Goodness!!!!


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## 04ultra (Aug 12, 2008)

*When soaking a chain is it better to use winter or summer bar oil??????*



Does anybody lube the bar rails before installing a chain???


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## taplinhill (Aug 12, 2008)

04ultra said:


> *When soaking a chain is it better to use winter or summer bar oil??????*
> 
> 
> 
> Does anybody lube the bar rails before installing a chain???



If the bar is new, yes.


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## 04ultra (Aug 12, 2008)

taplinhill said:


> If the bar is new, yes.






I use small pump oil can to lube all new bars....


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## taplinhill (Aug 12, 2008)

04ultra said:


> I use small pump oil can to lube all new bars....



That's what I use too.


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## 04ultra (Aug 12, 2008)

taplinhill said:


> That's what I use too.


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## Bermie (Aug 12, 2008)

Holy shmackerolly...What a load of extra work!

Put the new chain on, tighten it a bit more than normal, start it up, run it no load for about 30 seconds, make sure its throwing oil, retighten and...

GO TO WORK


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## 04ultra (Aug 12, 2008)

Bermie said:


> Holy shmackerolly...What a load of extra work!
> 
> Put the new chain on, tighten it a bit more than normal, start it up, run it no load for about 30 seconds, make sure its throwing oil, retighten and...
> 
> GO TO WORK





*Hi Bermie .................. *




.


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## Hugenpoet (Aug 12, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> More AS overengineering...
> 
> Chains do not need any sort of break in period. Why on earth would anyone take 2 days to soak and hang a chain to drip dry is beyond me...
> 
> ...



+1 Never heard of anyone (or manufacturer) recommend any breakin procedure for saw chains. Use'm till they need sharpening, then sharpen them.


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## Fish (Aug 12, 2008)

Hugenpoet said:


> +1 Never heard of anyone (or manufacturer) recommend any breakin procedure for saw chains.




Well duh, they want you to buy a new chain quicker!

The same with the file manufacturers...............


You all don't break in your files??????????

Dang, you guys don't know much do you?

Everyone knows that they need "burnished"!!!

Ask Andy.....


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## retired redneck (Aug 12, 2008)

I put new chain on, use old paint brush dipped in tranny fluid, brush boath sides run at 1/2 throttle for a minute or two,let chain cool before adj.......


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## Fish (Aug 12, 2008)

retired redneck said:


> I put new chain on, use old paint brush dipped in tranny fluid, brush boath sides run at 1/2 throttle for a minute or two,let chain cool before adj.......



Dexron II or III?


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## stihl sawing (Aug 12, 2008)

Fish said:


> Dexron II or III?


<a href="http://www.sweetim.com/s.asp?im=gen&ref=11" target="_blank"><img src="http://content.sweetim.com/sim/cpie/emoticons/000201E4.gif" border=0 ></a>


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## djauto (Aug 12, 2008)

Fish said:


> Dexron II or III?



Don't act stupid on this one, you know only to use Mercon on the pre 78 chains and Dexron III works on all 79 and later chains. Dexron II can be used though on 79 to 94 chains if Dexron III is not available.

oke:























If you are new to the site, just run the stinkin' chain with oil in the saw and don't worry about it. If you feel the desire to soak it, then by all means soak it. I don't.


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## spacemule (Aug 12, 2008)

This sounds a bit like OCD to me.


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## tdi-rick (Aug 12, 2008)

Fish said:


> Dexron II or III?




tsk tsk.

Dex II and III don't officially exist anymore so you have to use Dex VI which is backwards compatible. :greenchainsaw:


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## djauto (Aug 12, 2008)

tdi-rick said:


> tsk tsk.
> 
> Dex II and III don't officially exist anymore so you have to use Dex VI which is backwards compatible. :greenchainsaw:



Now wait a second, dont confuse every one, do you mean Dex IV, Dex V, Or Dex VI?

And runnning Dex II, III or any others when specs call for Mercon can be a bad idea.


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## Tzed250 (Aug 12, 2008)

Hugenpoet said:


> +1 Never heard of anyone (or manufacturer) recommend any breakin procedure for saw chains. Use'm till they need sharpening, then sharpen them.



See page 34 of this Oregon manual...pretty close to the OP's method...

http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/ms_manual/ms_02.pdf


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## slowp (Aug 12, 2008)

Bermie said:


> Holy shmackerolly...What a load of extra work!
> 
> Put the new chain on, tighten it a bit more than normal, start it up, run it no load for about 30 seconds, make sure its throwing oil, retighten and...
> 
> GO TO WORK



And that should be the end...


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## Fish (Aug 12, 2008)

I wonder if any of the guys here have ever used a torque wrench on their
bar nuts?


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## Tzed250 (Aug 12, 2008)

Fish said:


> I wonder if any of the guys here have ever used a torque wrench on their
> bar nuts?



Pretend like I have...


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## skid row (Aug 12, 2008)

Over the years my nuts have been torqued a few times.


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## stihl sawing (Aug 12, 2008)

24lbs per nut.


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## Darkness77 (Aug 12, 2008)

stihl sawing said:


> 24lbs per nut.



:jawdrop: 
Thats some big nuts


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## stihl sawing (Aug 12, 2008)

Darkness77 said:


> :jawdrop:
> Thats some big nuts


LOL, Yes they would be. I have no idea how much torque you need. I just tighten them till i think they are right.


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## Darkness77 (Aug 12, 2008)

Does anyone used the supplied screwdriver socket thingo to tighten thier bar nuts? I use a socket, It seems much tighter on the nut.


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## stihl sawing (Aug 12, 2008)

Darkness77 said:


> Does anyone used the supplied screwdriver socket thingo to tighten thier bar nuts? I use a socket, It seems much tighter on the nut.


I use a ratchet and socket too.


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## Darkness77 (Aug 12, 2008)

stihl sawing said:


> I use a ratchet and socket too.



After years of over tightening the nuts on the Dolmar with a 1/2" drive ratchet the studs broke. On inspection they seemed to be stretched. I now use a Stalwhille flexi socket wrench. Its a lot shorter than the ratchet and is a nice tool to use as well.


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## stihl sawing (Aug 12, 2008)

Darkness77 said:


> After years of over tightening the nuts on the Dolmar with a 1/2" drive ratchet the studs broke. On inspection they seemed to be stretched. I now use a Stalwhille flexi socket wrench. Its a lot shorter than the ratchet and is a nice tool to use as well.


Yup, Know what ya mean.you can tighten one up too much. I also use a shorty ratchet.


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## davefr (Aug 12, 2008)

I always treat my new chains in a bucket of liquid nitrogen. The affect is transformation from austenite to martensite which increases their strength and hardness. Just do a search under "cryogenic hardening". 

Once you do it just throw away the silly files and jigs and chains will stay sharp for years and years.


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## Hugenpoet (Aug 12, 2008)

davefr said:


> I always treat my new chains in a bucket of liquid nitrogen. The affect is transformation from austenite to martensite which increases their strength and hardness. Just do a search under "cryogenic hardening".
> 
> Once you do it just throw away the silly files and jigs and chains will stay sharp for years and years.



I wonder how a pair of 24 lbs nuts would perform after they were "cryogenically hardend"?


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## Darkness77 (Aug 12, 2008)

My guess is they would explode upon touching anything worth hitting.


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## 04ultra (Aug 12, 2008)

Fish said:


> I wonder if any of the guys here have ever used a torque wrench on their
> bar nuts?






opcorn: opcorn:


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## retired redneck (Aug 12, 2008)

djauto said:


> Don't act stupid on this one, you know only to use Mercon on the pre 78 chains and Dexron III works on all 79 and later chains. Dexron II can be used though on 79 to 94 chains if Dexron III is not available.
> 
> oke:
> 
> ...



Sometimes it dont pay to get up LOL


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## Bruce Hopf (Aug 13, 2008)

Tzed250 said:


> See page 34 of this Oregon manual...pretty close to the OP's method...
> 
> http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/ms_manual/ms_02.pdf



Tzed250. Thanks for Backing me up on this matter. If you look at Oregon's Web Page that Tzed250 has shown, on Page 21, and 34 explains why you need to soak, and break in your chains. If this doesn't help, or convince, read the following. I used to be a Transport Truck Driver, and I used to haul several loads of Steal into the Oregon Plant, and several loads of Oregon Products out of Guelph, Ontario. I used to walk the lines while waiting for to be unloaded, or to be reloaded, or a load to get organized for shipping, and for paper work. It was a very interesting place to be in, and see how the Chains where made, and how the Guide Bars where stamped, and assembled. It was a good experience 
The idea behind soaking your chains over night with Bar Oil, is because when the Chain Links, Cutters and Drive Tangs are made, they come out of the forge white Hot, and dipped in some type of coating, and then dipped into cooling oil, to temper the steel. 
They then Links, and Cutters go into the press to be riveted together, and put into rolls of what ever length is ordered. 
The oil residue left on the chains, is to prevent them from rusting, and it is not a lubricating oil. That is why the chains should be soaked in some type of lubricating oil over night, so that the links have sufficient oil prior to installing the Chain onto the Saw, and Bar, so that the joints get to hot at the start, which can weaken the joints of the chain, and any type of heat can, and will take out the temper of the steal.
Now when you first put a new chain onto the Saw, and Bar, it binds, and drags quit a bit. This is caused by the Coating on the Drive Tang,of the Chain Links, and Cutters, and this has to be worn off a little bit, so that the chain will travel smoothly in the groves of the Guide Bar. In order to achieve this, you have to run your saw at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, for a few minutes. Then re tighten the chain after a few minutes, allowing to cool. 
Not doing this procedure, will cause premature wear on both the Guide Bar, and Chain, causing too much unnessasery heat, and friction on both components.
Once you start cutting, you do light cutting for a while, then check again for tension, and readjust if needed.
I know Large Logging Companies do not do this procedure is because the more chains, and guide bars is a Tax Right Off, and that is Good Business, but for me, and a lot of you on AS, It is more than Practical for this Practice. I don't know about you Guys, But I need to get back and more every little bit I can get out of My Equipment, and the longer I can get out of My Equipment like my Bars, and Chains, is a Huge Savings in the end. That is My Right Off. Bruce.


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## GASoline71 (Aug 13, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> I know Large Logging Companies do not do this procedure is because the more chains, and guide bars is a Tax Right Off, and that is Good Business, but for me, and a lot of you on AS, It is more than Practical for this Practice. I don't know about you Guys, But I need to get back and more every little bit I can get out of My Equipment, and the longer I can get out of My Equipment like my Bars, and Chains, is a Huge Savings in the end. That is My Right Off. Bruce.



In no way are logging companies and professional cutters not doing this soak and hang procedure to be a tax *WRITE* off...  

It all boils down to time in the field cuttin'... the casual cutter/saw collector/firewood dude/typical chainsaw overengineer might want to use this procedure... (for what reason I have no idea) but it would just not be productive to a cuttin' company to not be able to take a chain out of the box and toss it on a saw and get back to work...

Saw boss: "Fer cryin' out loud rookie... what are ya sittin' around for?"

Rookie: "I just opened up a new box of chain and I'm waitin' for it to soak in bar oil overnight."

Sawboss: "Are you kiddin' me? Huck that chain on the friggin' saw and get cuttin'... or take a long walk off a short spar..."



You can try to back up your claim all you want... I still say P-shaw... opcorn: 

Kinda like the whole "pull the starter cord out 6 inches when you shut off your saw" deal...

Sorry... not buyin' it.

Gary


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## 04ultra (Aug 13, 2008)

*Gary you should have done this on the "Termite"*




.


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## Meadow Beaver (Aug 13, 2008)

I wouldn't ever bother soaking my chains they usually break in after the first day. If he's running 1/2" chain he's probably just impatient, I know .404 takes a little longer than 3/8" to break in. Overall it seems useless to soak chains two days.


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## Tzed250 (Aug 13, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> Kinda like the whole "pull the starter cord out 6 inches when you shut off your saw" deal...
> 
> Sorry... not buyin' it.
> 
> Gary



Gary, go put a 10-10 or PM700 in your hands and you will see why this is part of the shut off drill.


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## Fish (Aug 13, 2008)

What exactly do you all mean by "break in"?

You normally replace a chain when the cutters have no tooth left.

If you put a new chain on a worn out sprocket, then there will be some
"break in" and stretching, but will soaking help that?

Wear on a bar is from lack of lube on the bar, and running a worn strectched
dull chain, wear on a sprocket is from a streched worn dull chain, etc....


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## Tzed250 (Aug 13, 2008)

I use Stihl chain...it is ready to go out of the box.


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## 04ultra (Aug 13, 2008)

I buy plenty of Stihl chains because after they stretch I have enough links that I can make another shorter chain........... 




.


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## Longwood (Aug 13, 2008)

I can't see petting and pamperin a new chain for days only to have it ruined in seconds by a nail, concrete, horseshoe or whatever some dumbass has put in a tree thats in his yard. Put it on and go.


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## tdi-rick (Aug 13, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> Tzed250. Thanks for Backing me up on this matter. If you look at Oregon's Web Page that Tzed250 has shown, on Page 21, and 34 explains why you need to soak, and break in your chains.
> 
> <snip> Bruce.



Bruce, if it makes you feel any better (but really, what does it matter what others do and say  ) I also soak my chains o/night prior to use.


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## Bermie (Aug 13, 2008)

04ultra said:


> *Hi Bermie .................. *
> 
> .



HI Ultra:wave: 



slowp said:


> And that should be the end...



THE END!!


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## spacemule (Aug 13, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> I know Large Logging Companies do not do this procedure is because the more chains, and guide bars is a Tax Right Off, and that is Good Business, but for me, and a lot of you on AS, It is more than Practical for this Practice. I don't know about you Guys, But I need to get back and more every little bit I can get out of My Equipment, and the longer I can get out of My Equipment like my Bars, and Chains, is a Huge Savings in the end. That is My Right Off. Bruce.


Uh huh. Let's assume without questioning, that your method will add 10% to the life of the chain--a very dubious claim at best. Who will benefit more from practicing your method? A homeowner who will only use at most 1 to 2 chains per year and spend more in oil costs than the saved chain cost, or a big business who will use 100's of chains per year and can treat dozens of chains at a time? 

If it is not cost effective for a business to do, why would it be cost effective for a homeowner to do?

Yeah it's time to face up to the fact. You're anal retentive.


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## gafirefighter (Aug 13, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> In no way are logging companies and professional cutters not doing this soak and hang procedure to be a tax *WRITE* off...
> 
> It all boils down to time in the field cuttin'... the casual cutter/saw collector/firewood dude/typical chainsaw overengineer might want to use this procedure... (for what reason I have no idea) but it would just not be productive to a cuttin' company to not be able to take a chain out of the box and toss it on a saw and get back to work...
> 
> ...



Come on now, what is practical to one may not be practical to everyone else. 

Adam


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## Fish (Aug 13, 2008)

Yeah, I have been wearing garlic for years, and it works....


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## Cedarkerf (Aug 13, 2008)

Wow this is getting entertaining. Have yet to have a chain get tossed for premature wear. I have a rack of chains that are prolly 40-50% left on the cutters I only use for plowing. Maybe some chains cost an awful lota money. Ill continue to throw new one on and run the saw. But then again I buy chain in 100' rolls so its only about 15 dollars a pop for105 link chain. Get an excavator and lets really grow this mole hill.opcorn:


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## redprospector (Aug 13, 2008)

Hahahaha, 77 post on whether to waste time soaking a chain over night, and let it drip dry, or not.
Who'd a thunk it?  

Andy


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## GASoline71 (Aug 13, 2008)

Tzed250 said:


> Gary, go put a 10-10 or PM700 in your hands and you will see why this is part of the shut off drill.



How about a Mac 250? Homelite 770G? or a Homelite 995? ...same difference.

Don't have to do it to those saws... never have, never will...



Gary


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## heimannm (Aug 14, 2008)

*Fish did it again...*

Post #17 and following, Fish always makes me smile.

Old McCulloch manuals were all very clear in their instructions, soak a new chain before use and store them soaking in oil if the say will be unused for a while.

Needless to say I don't soak mine, though some of the e-bay and other collected saws have very stiff rusty chain when they arrive, several are soaking in the parts washer right now.

One good way to minimize corrosion of magnesium (another thread) is to run the saw and really oil it up good before setting in on the shelf. Now instead of resting on a damp shelf, it sets in a puddle of it own oil.

Even at $7.99 a gallon bar oil is pretty cheap, use plenty.

Mark


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## SawTroll (Aug 14, 2008)

04ultra said:


> I use small pump oil can to lube all new bars....



Why not? - it can't hurt!


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## MAG58 (Aug 14, 2008)

04ultra said:


> I use small pump oil can to lube all new bars....



Same here, and if one of the saw have been out of use for some time I lube the bar and chain again.


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## Tzed250 (Aug 14, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> How about a Mac 250? Homelite 770G? or a Homelite 995? ...same difference.
> 
> Don't have to do it to those saws... never have, never will...
> 
> ...




You're wrong...


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## SawTroll (Aug 14, 2008)

Tzed250 said:


> See page 34 of this Oregon manual...pretty close to the OP's method...
> 
> http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/ms_manual/ms_02.pdf



That is what I referred to in post 15.......


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## Tzed250 (Aug 14, 2008)

I don't pre-oil. I install the chain, start the saw, blip it for about 1 minute to make sure the oiler is working and the chain is warm. Then I stop it, check tension, then cut wood.


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## The Lorax (Aug 14, 2008)

It probably is good advice, but like a lot of things nowadays chain is considered to be cheap and not worth farting about over.
Used to be a thing with old dirtbike chains that you would buy a big round tin of grease and heat it on the stove, when it got liquid you would drop your bike chain in and leave it for a while then take it out and drip dry and cool.
Then o-ring chains came out and most people don't even bother to spray lube on the chain anymore.
I think it probably would help but until someone posts a scanning electron microscope picture of the pins in a chain that has been soaked and one that was left run dry then most people won't think anything of it.


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## Fastcast (Aug 14, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> In no way are logging companies and professional cutters not doing this soak and hang procedure to be a tax *WRITE* off...



Gary, have you spent much time in Canada? Who knows why the Canadians do some of the things they do....opcorn: 

I've been going to Canada, Great Lakes region, for years fishing and I can tell you they _definitely do things different_ than us and it's not all bad. They really are very innovative and self sufficient, at least the country folk are, where we go.....Very impressive!

With that said.....NO, I don't soak and hang my new chains for days....


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## Bermie (Aug 14, 2008)

Noooo, I can't resist...

Even if I soaked a chain before using it, the first palm tree takes care of ALL the oil, soaked or not. It just isn't worth the time, for those of us who use saws regularly, I do not think soaking prior to first use would add a significant percentage of time before 'wear out'. My chains 'wear out' when they have next to no cutter left, not because the individual components are worn (tie straps, rivets or drive links)
When I'm done cutting a palm, there isn't a speck of oil on the chain or bar, REAL clean though!!
You have to strip it down, clean everything and run it clean to spread some oil about BEFORE you put it away for the night, if you don't, the magnesium will disintegrate, and the bar and chain will rust together overnight.

'kay??? Over and Out, bye bye now


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## Austin1 (Aug 14, 2008)

Bermie said:


> Noooo, I can't resist...
> 
> Even if I soaked a chain before using it, the first palm tree takes care of ALL the oil, soaked or not. It just isn't worth the time, for those of us who use saws regularly, I do not think soaking prior to first use would add a significant percentage of time before 'wear out'. My chains 'wear out' when they have next to no cutter left, not because the individual components are worn (tie straps, rivets or drive links)
> When I'm done cutting a palm, there isn't a speck of oil on the chain or bar, REAL clean though!!
> ...


Gee thats too much work to do after cutting I just blow mine off with air when I get home maybe some WD-40 to get the Pine sap off. Kinda glad I am thousands of miles away from them saw eating Palm Trees!:monkey: 
About the chains I know a guy who does soak them he does everything by the book uses a torque wrench and follows every owners manual right to the letter on everything. Me I just worry about how sharp the chain is.


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## Meadow Beaver (Aug 14, 2008)

This could go on forever.


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## maico490 (Aug 14, 2008)

The Lorax said:


> .
> Used to be a thing with old dirtbike chains that you would buy a big round tin of grease and heat it on the stove, when it got liquid you would drop your bike chain in and leave it for a while then take it out and drip dry and cool.
> Then o-ring chains came out and most people don't even bother to spray lube on the chain anymore.



Oh the memories. Just one thing though you missed out the step where you tipped the whole tin of molten grease over the garage floor. Did that twice over the years.The one good thing with it was that it would disguise a worn out chain on a bike you were selling.


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## Fish (Aug 14, 2008)

It will, at least another 100 threads or so.....

Why not just put the dam chain on, an stick it in a bucket of light oil while revving the throttle a second or two?


It does not matter, does it? We replace a chain when the cutters are
gone, normally, correct? So the oil will benefit what, the bar? Sprocket??

So the oil soak will slow the wear/stretch, which will slow the wear on the
sprocket???????? Which will adversely affect the next chain????

This is a lot of wind about a non-issue, like greasing the sprocket bearing...

But this forum thrives on such things, so let the good times roll.................


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## Bruce Hopf (Aug 14, 2008)

spacemul said:


> Uh huh. Let's assume without questioning, that your method will add 10% to the life of the chain--a very dubious claim at best. Who will benefit more from practicing your method? A homeowner who will only use at most 1 to 2 chains per year and spend more in oil costs than the saved chain cost, or a big business who will use 100's of chains per year and can treat dozens of chains at a time?
> 
> If it is not cost effective for a business to do, why would it be cost effective for a homeowner to do?
> 
> Yeah it's time to face up to the fact. You're anal retentive.


Space Mule.
You have to look at it another way, from a Canadians Point of View. I just recently bought 2-16" Oregon Laminated Guide Bars and Semi Chisel Chain Combos. I paid $30.00 USD each. I also bought 6 extra chains to fit these Bars @ $10.00 USD each. Plus $32.00 USD for Shipping + Exchange Rate from Canadian Dollars to US Dollars + $17.00 for sending Express Post.
Up Here in Canada 1-16" Laminated Guide Bar from Laser costs $76.85 CND + 13% Taxes (Provincial Sales Tax, and General Service Tax), with Semi Chisel Chain Combo = $86.24 after Taxes. More than Half again the price of Buying in the US, Plus the Gas at $1.21 per Liter = $4.57 per US Gallon @ 21 miles per Gallon x 90 miles round trip, to where a person can get the best deal on Bars, and Chains to drive to get the Bar, and Chain Combo. 
1- 16" Chain Loop of Semi Chisel Chain costs $17.00 plus 13% tax = $19.21 per Chain Loop. 1 US gallon of Bar Oil is 6.99 CND plus 13% = $7.90 CND.
Up here 2 Bar and Chain combos with 6 extra chains is $287.74 CND. with Taxes, and this doesn't include the Gas either to drive and pick this stuff up.
Now with that said OK, the savings is and very well could be asstronomical, at what you figure at 10% longer.
Now for a home owner with the costs of the items that I have given you, are indeed Cost Effective. Another thing you need to look at, it's not Cost Effective for a big business, not to do this, is because a Big Business, or any Size Business for that matter can use it as a Business Expense at the end of the year, where a Home Owner Can Not. I have been around Business my whole Life, right from the Day I was born, and will be around Business until the Day I Die.
Now with this said, Who is the One That Is Anal Retentive.


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## tdi-rick (Aug 14, 2008)

Wish chain was cheap here, 72 links of semi-chisel made up will cost anywhere from A$30 to A$42. The dearer stuff is local, the cheaper either mail order or in one of the big towns, but they are 100km away.

A$42 = US$48, just for a 72 link piece of Carlton, so you tend to look after the buggers, and bars, and sprocket tips, etc.


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## Bruce Hopf (Aug 14, 2008)

Bermie said:


> Noooo, I can't resist...
> 
> Even if I soaked a chain before using it, the first palm tree takes care of ALL the oil, soaked or not. It just isn't worth the time, for those of us who use saws regularly, I do not think soaking prior to first use would add a significant percentage of time before 'wear out'. My chains 'wear out' when they have next to no cutter left, not because the individual components are worn (tie straps, rivets or drive links)
> When I'm done cutting a palm, there isn't a speck of oil on the chain or bar, REAL clean though!!
> ...


WOW!!! I never realized that any sap could Ruin a Chain, and Bar. If this sap is so hard on the Bars, and Chains, What about the rest of the Saw? Thanks. Bruce.


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## Bruce Hopf (Aug 14, 2008)

ti-rick said:


> Wish chain was cheap here, 72 links of semi-chisel made up will cost anywhere from A$30 to A$42. The dearer stuff is local, the cheaper either mail order or in one of the big towns, but they are 100km away.
> 
> A$42 = US$48, just for a 72 link piece of Carlton, so you tend to look after the buggers, and bars, and sprocket tips, etc.


Like I have said Before. Chains and Bars are not cheap for you guys in Australia, for here in Canada. Being that the Exchange rate is quit cheap for Us Canadians, I found a good buy from across the Border. $10.00 USD for a 60 Link 3/8 Pitch x 0.050 Gauge of Carlton Chain, verses $20.00 Canadian for 60 Links 3/8 Pitch x 0.050 Gauge of Laser Chain, $25.00 to $30.00 Canadian for 60 Links 3/8 Pitch x 0.050 Gauge and the Carlton Cutters are longer than Oregon, and Laser. Compared to the US Prices, the prices in Australia, and Canada, are Astronomical. 
I was taught by my Father, who was a Very Sharp Business Man, who ran his own Plumbing and Heating Business for over 40 years, before he Retired,as well as I was taught this by my Great Uncle, who ran his own Shop as a General Mechanic, that you had to get the most out of your equipment. Also I was taught, if you look after your Tool and Equipment right, it would look after you. If not, It would Cost You. That has stuck with me.
Heck, when I had my own Trucking Company for 10 Years, I used to have my High Way Tractors Greased once a week, as Preventive Maintenance. A lot of guys I knew, and worked with, used to tell me I was overdoing it, well when their truck was tying up a bay in the Repair Shop, I was going up and down the High Way. I'd rather go a little over board, than not, Especially with the cost of Replacement Parts, and Down Time. Bruce.


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## Ghillie (Aug 14, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> WOW!!! I never realized that any sap could Ruin a Chain, and Bar. If this sap is so hard on the Bars, and Chains, What about the rest of the Saw? Thanks. Bruce.



There was a thread describing the effects of palm trees on aluminum. I think it was started by Bsnelling on an ebay 440. Ekka sent him some parts.

If I remember right, the palms are mostly water and the "paste" they produce when sawed turns acidic in 24 hours.

Eats just about everything it touches if you don't wash it off.

Talk about maintenance costs!! One post said he had to replace saws every year because of the effects.

Fred


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## kevinj (Aug 14, 2008)

04ultra said:


> *When soaking a chain is it better to use winter or summer bar oil??????*
> 
> 
> 
> Does anybody lube the bar rails before installing a chain???



For anyone who does use oil to pre-lube a chain,
do you mix gas with it ???

If so, what is the "BEST RATIO" ???


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## Bruce Hopf (Aug 14, 2008)

Fish said:


> What exactly do you all mean by "break in"?
> 
> You normally replace a chain when the cutters have no tooth left.
> 
> ...


Fish.
This term was taught to me by my Dad, and Great Uncle. From what I have studied, and seen when I used to stroll around the Oregon Plant in Guelph Ontario, that there is a Paint Like Coating on a new chain, that has to be worn off the Drive Tangs of the Chain. As the Parts of the Chains are being forged and stamped, they are dipped into a Paint Like Coating, and after that they are dipped into Cooling Oil, where they are Cooled and the Parts are then Tempered.
Now, Oregon Recommends that one should soak the Chain in a good Lubricating Oil. I have only started soaking my new chains after I took over the Family Farm, where I was raised, and when I sold out my Trucking Business. After doing a lot of research, on Saw Chains, and a couple of years hauling loads into, and out of the Oregon Plant, as a Truck Driver, this is what I discovered.
Oregon also Recommends that you run your Chain Saw with New Sprocket, and Chain, between 1/4, to 1/2 throttle, while making sure you get as much oil to the chain as possible, with out cutting for a few minutes, until as much of this Paint Like Coating gets worn off the Chain, and gets seated into the New Sprocket properly. They also recommend that you let the chain cool a little bit, retighten the new chain, and make a few cuts in light wood, not too big at the start, check the chain for tension, and adjust if needed, and keep an eye on if for a while as you cut. after a bit, the chain should stay with in speck for tension. Now your chain is what is called broken in. Bruce


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## slowp (Aug 15, 2008)

Cedarkerf said:


> Wow this is getting entertaining. Have yet to have a chain get tossed for premature wear. I have a rack of chains that are prolly 40-50% left on the cutters I only use for plowing. Maybe some chains cost an awful lota money. Ill continue to throw new one on and run the saw. But then again I buy chain in 100' rolls so its only about 15 dollars a pop for105 link chain. Get an excavator and lets really grow this mole hill.opcorn:



And should I start a thread called, "What do you do with your worn out chain?"
If you leave it in the back of the pickup, it disappears. I don't know where or how but it does. Should one soak it in oil before placing it in the back of the truck?


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## Meadow Beaver (Aug 15, 2008)

That's a good one slowp. You should soak the junk chains for at least two months before throwing them in the back of your truck.:hmm3grin2orange:


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## Bermie (Aug 15, 2008)

Palm sap corrodes the saw casing, it causes the bar and chain to rust.

Price of chain here 16" $33USD and up, bars $75USD and up, chain oil $10UDS a gallon (that was on sale) and more...

I STILL have never had a chain wear out components before there was no more cutter left to reasonably sharpen.


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## Bruce Hopf (Aug 15, 2008)

Bermie said:


> Palm sap corrodes the saw casing, it causes the bar and chain to rust.
> 
> Price of chain here 16" $33USD and up, bars $75USD and up, chain oil $10UDS a gallon (that was on sale) and more....GET TO WORK!!!
> 
> I STILL have never had a chain wear out components before there was no more cutter left to reasonably sharpen.


The more I have thought about soaking new chains prior to placing on the Chain Saw does in fact make a some sense. 
Look at it from another angle. When the Chains Components first come out of the Forge, they are dipped in a paint like coating, and dipped in cooling oil. This Oil isn't a lubricating oil.
I think now that soaking the chains in Bar Oil, the Chain is already lubricated when it is put on the Saw, and helps a bit against friction, so when the saw first starts up, and spins the chain, there is more than ample oil on the chain to help prevent some of the friction, while the Oil Pump on the Saw starts pumping the Oil.
I don't know about you guys, but after looking at it this way does make some sense. I don't know, you tell me. Thanks. Bruce.


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## abohac (Aug 15, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> I was wondering, how you other Guys, Break in your new Chain Saw Chains.
> I like to let my chains soak in Bar Oil plastic tub with a lid on it, for over night, and let them hang for over another night, to let the some of the excess Bar Oil drip off them into another plastic tub, so I don't get Bar Oil, all over the floor. I then install the New Chain onto the Chain Saw, and take the saw outside.
> Being that my old McCulloch Chain Saws, have Manual Oiler's as well, I pump extra Bar Oil onto the New Chain, while running the saw at mid way to wide open, but not wide open. I run the Chain Saw like this, for about 5 to 10 minutes. After that I then retighten up the New Chain, and cut wood for a few minutes, and check the chain tension again for tightness.
> So I was wondering how you Fellas on AS break in your New Chains? I know that there are Makes of Chain Saws out there that do not have Manual Oilers on them, and it would be nice to see how you Guys go about New Chainsaw Chain Break in. Thanks. Bruce.


I rivet it together and run the living @#%$ out of it until it's loose. I then tighten it up and do it again.


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## Darkness77 (Aug 16, 2008)

abohac said:


> I rivet it together and run the living @#%$ out of it until it's loose. I then tighten it up and do it again.



Right on. I''ve never run out of adjustment before the cutters are worn. 

I'm just a pup but.


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## buzz sawyer (Aug 16, 2008)

As I said earlier, I don't soak my chains. Been reading this thread and thinking how soaking could be beneficial. If you install a dry chain, the tension will pull the rivets against the sides of the link holes and there will be some period (short?) when little or no lube can get into this area - where the wear occurs. I can see how pre-soaking would allow oil to penetrate these areas and might prevent premature wear - especiallly if you go right into a piece of oak or hickory. If the chain is tight enough, pre-blipping still may not get oil into all the spaces. Certainly can't hurt to soak them - and if you plan ahead and have them soaking before you need them, it won't delay your work. There will be less initial wear but it may be minimal and not cost effective for some.

As for tightening the bar nuts, I use to tighten the devil out of them thinking the bar was slipping as the chain kept getting looser. This stopped when I began using real bar oil. I just use the scrench - it gets them plenty tight.


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## Fish (Aug 16, 2008)

Just think when the ol Stihl dealer sells a new saw,
puts a new chain, on a new bar,
fires that sucker up and revs the saw for a while. It takes a good while
for that new pump to start putting out oil, so that thing is real dry for
quite a period. 

I think we all should demand on our next new saw that our chain be pre-soaked, bar too. and the saw run without a chain/bar on it until the pump
starts flowing.........

Let's start a new trend in saw sales............................

You Stihl dealers will thank me............................ Start soaking them
guys!!!!


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## cherrycutter (Aug 16, 2008)

*chain break in*

I'm relatively new to the site so I guess I don't have the credibility as some of you old timers (heh heh). Anyway my 2 cents. I have a 4' diameter junk white oak log that I bury my 25" bar into, dig the felling dogs in and try to stall out my 460. Chain is strtched and somewhat loose when Im done. I just tighten then and go cut wood. I havn't noticed any decreased chain life and the chain is ready for the woods.  


ms460 dp
ms260 Pro


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## skid row (Aug 16, 2008)

Fish said:


> Just think when the ol Stihl dealer sells a new saw,
> puts a new chain, on a new bar,
> fires that sucker up and revs the saw for a while. It takes a good while
> for that new pump to start putting out oil, so that thing is real dry for
> ...


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## redprospector (Aug 16, 2008)

Hahaha. This is the thread that just won't die. 109 posts and counting.
Soak em if ya got em boy's!  

Andy


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## slowp (Aug 16, 2008)

OK, so what color of oil must one use to soak said chains? I would like a teal color. opcorn:


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## Nitroman (Aug 17, 2008)

slowp said:


> OK, so what color of oil must one use to soak said chains? I would like a teal color. opcorn:



NO! It MUST be red oil. Or if not the red, get the blue.

Teal 'nuff said.


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## jhellwig (Aug 17, 2008)

Gay men aren't even this anal.


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## Austin1 (Aug 17, 2008)

slowp said:


> OK, so what color of oil must one use to soak said chains? I would like a teal color. opcorn:


It's gotta be purple. Use red and blue mix-em together just like windshield washer fluid.


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## gafirefighter (Aug 17, 2008)

I really can not believe this thread had gone this long.

This is the thread that never ends. It just goes on and on my friends. 

Adam


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## buzz sawyer (Aug 17, 2008)

I'm thinking about trying a mixture of STP, Amsoil and rose water. Whether it works or not, I'll come out smelling like a rose.:hmm3grin2orange:


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## Fish (Aug 17, 2008)

gafirefighter said:


> I really can not believe this thread had gone this long.
> 
> This is the thread that never ends. It just goes on and on my friends.
> 
> Adam



Does that stand for gay firefighter?? Like on the Sopranos?

Not that there is anything wrong with that...................

All of this gay/anal talk will bring out those guys............

jayhellwig???? Smilin Bob???


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## jhellwig (Aug 17, 2008)

I aint gay.


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## Fish (Aug 17, 2008)

Well, just joshing there a tad Bob, nothing wrong with that either, eh?

Just the gay/anal thing you inserted.............................

I wish to take the high road here and boldly state, that "very" few guys
with chainsaws are in fact "gay"..............

The ones with "Electrolux" saws, may be a little "gender confused".........

But the Stihl guys are all 100% straight!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Except for the arborists that like the ms192t..................


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## redprospector (Aug 17, 2008)

Fish said:


> Well, just joshing there a tad Bob, nothing wrong with that either, eh?
> 
> Just the gay/anal thing you inserted.............................
> 
> ...



Nah. It takes a lot of balls to pull out a 192t in front of someone, so I don't think they're gay either. Unless ofcourse they soak their chains. 

Andy


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 18, 2008)

Fish said:


> Marvel Mystery oil is great, but it discolors my nuts when I soak them in it,
> but they do stay cooler............




Oh! *those* nuts. I was thinking of mine. My bar nuts last forever after soaking in Mystery Oil. A can of them open on the bar will only disappear one per visit by a new guy.

Harry K


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## spacemule (Aug 18, 2008)

Over maintenance is as bad as under maintenance and is a little more stupid.


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## Bruce Hopf (Aug 18, 2008)

Fish said:


> Just think when the old Stihl dealer sells a new saw,
> puts a new chain, on a new bar,
> fires that sucker up and revs the saw for a while. It takes a good while
> for that new pump to start putting out oil, so that thing is real dry for
> ...



Fish.
Thanks for reminding me. 7 Years ago, when I worked for a Stihl Dealership, we were not allowed to put any Bar Oil, or any type of lubrication in the Chain Saw, because Stihl didn't want to get the Customers Vehicle covered in oil. 
When we sold a Customer a new Chain Saw, we had to take them and the new saw that they just bought, and Demonstrate the procedures of properly starting up a Chain Saw. 
I always hated starting up the Chain Saw, and revving it up, especially with absolutely no lubrication, for the Bar, Chain and Drive Sprocket. 
After the Demonstration, we had to have the Customer do the Demonstration Procedures over, to make sure they knew what they were doing. It didn't matter, if they had experience running a Chain Saw or not. That then was Stihl's Procedure then, because of Liability. I don't know how Stihl's procedure is now. Bruce.


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## jhellwig (Aug 18, 2008)

Personally I don't just soak the chain. I put the new chain on the saw and throw the whole thing in a drum of 80-90w. Then and only then can I be certian that every single moving part is properly lubricated with an oil that is (according to my self proclaimed degree in engineering) is better than the factory specs.


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## Fish (Aug 18, 2008)

jhellwig said:


> I put the boy on the stick and throw the whole
> boy in a drum of 80-90w. Then and only then can I be certian that every single moving part is properly lubricated with an oil that is (according to my self proclaimed degree in engineering) is better than the factory specs.




MMMMMM no flags there


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## stihl sawing (Aug 18, 2008)

Fish said:


> MMMMMM no flags there


LOL,opcorn: opcorn: Heck with the popcorn, I'm laughing too hard to eat it anyway. Kinda re-worded it there just a bit.LOL<a href="http://www.sweetim.com/s.asp?im=gen&ref=11" target="_blank"><img src="http://content.sweetim.com/sim/cpie/emoticons/0002014C.gif" border=0 ></a>


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## Bruce Hopf (Aug 19, 2008)

spacemule said:


> Over maintenance is as bad as under maintenance and is a little more stupid.


Space Mule.
You go and tell that to any, I mean Any Farmer, and I Garentee You they will tell you to go Pound Rubber. When it comes to Planting Season, Haying Season, or Harvest Season, Every Farmer Over Does It with Mantenence, because a lot of the time, WE have to deal with a sometimes Nasty B!tch called Mother Nature, and we have to deal with a lot of Catchey Weather. 
When it is fit to operate, We Have to be on the Go, and make Bloody Sure that Our Equipment is In Top Working Order. If not, when we get a lot of catchy Weather, and with Equipment Down, when the weather is good, can Make Or Break Us.
So Since I'm a Farmer As Well, SO GO POUND RUBBER. NOW WHO IS STUPID ONE???


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## spacemule (Aug 20, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> Space Mule.
> You go and tell that to any, I mean Any Farmer, and I Garentee You they will tell you to go Pound Rubber. When it comes to Planting Season, Haying Season, or Harvest Season, Every Farmer Over Does It with Mantenence, because a lot of the time, WE have to deal with a sometimes Nasty B!tch called Mother Nature, and we have to deal with a lot of Catchey Weather.
> When it is fit to operate, We Have to be on the Go, and make Bloody Sure that Our Equipment is In Top Working Order. If not, when we get a lot of catchy Weather, and with Equipment Down, when the weather is good, can Make Or Break Us.
> So Since I'm a Farmer As Well, SO GO POUND RUBBER. NOW WHO IS STUPID ONE???



What in the heck does crop harvesting and farm equipment have to do with oiling your bar too often?


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## spacemule (Aug 20, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> Fish.
> Thanks for reminding me. 7 Years ago, when I worked for a Stihl Dealership, we were not allowed to put any Bar Oil, or any type of lubrication in the Chain Saw, because Stihl didn't want to get the Customers Vehicle covered in oil.



So, I guess you're making up for all that oil repression? :hmm3grin2orange:


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 20, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> Space Mule.
> You go and tell that to any, I mean Any Farmer, and I Garentee You they will tell you to go Pound Rubber. When it comes to Planting Season, Haying Season, or Harvest Season, Every Farmer Over Does It with Mantenence, because a lot of the time, WE have to deal with a sometimes Nasty B!tch called Mother Nature, and we have to deal with a lot of Catchey Weather.
> When it is fit to operate, We Have to be on the Go, and make Bloody Sure that Our Equipment is In Top Working Order. If not, when we get a lot of catchy Weather, and with Equipment Down, when the weather is good, can Make Or Break Us.
> So Since I'm a Farmer As Well, SO GO POUND RUBBER. NOW WHO IS STUPID ONE???



A bit of overreaction there. The discussion is about *over* maintenance. I grew up on a farm and maintenance is a never-ending process. We didn't go overboard nuts about it though. Soaking a chain in oil a day, then drip drying it a day is way over the top. That would be about the equivalent of pulling the tracks off a crawler and soaking them in oil every year.

Harry K


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## Gologit (Aug 20, 2008)

turnkey4099 said:


> A bit of overreaction there. The discussion is about *over* maintenance. I grew up on a farm and maintenance is a never-ending process. We didn't go overboard nuts about it though. Soaking a chain in oil a day, then drip drying it a day is way over the top. That would be about the equivalent of pulling the tracks off a crawler and soaking them in oil every year.
> 
> Harry K



 You don't do that? I'll bet you don't replace the air in your tires with fresh stuff, either. And shoudn't we be out painting the blade on the Cat so the cutting edge doesn't rust?


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## slowp (Aug 20, 2008)

Gologit said:


> You don't do that? I'll bet you don't replace the air in your tires with fresh stuff, either. And shoudn't we be out painting the blade on the Cat so the cutting edge doesn't rust?



Rust on the blade shouldn't be a problem if you soak it in oil every night. But don't spill the oil in the woods. That would be a problem.


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## Bruce Hopf (Aug 20, 2008)

spacemul said:


> What in the heck does crop harvesting and farm equipment have to do with oiling your bar too often?


Space Mule.
Talking to people like you is like:deadhorse: . I was talking about Pre Soaking A Brand New Chain Prior To Installing On To Your Chain Saw, Not Oiling Your Bar Too Often
You talking this way is Showing How Intelligent you Really Are.


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## spacemule (Aug 20, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> Space Mule.
> Talking to people like you is like:deadhorse: . I was talking about Pre Soaking A Brand New Chain Prior To Installing On To Your Chain Saw, Not Oiling Your Bar Too Often
> You talking this way is Showing How Intelligent you Really Are.



I know what you were talking about. In the end, it's all about greasing your bar though, isn't it. :hmm3grin2orange:


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## buzz sawyer (Aug 20, 2008)

Gologit said:


> You don't do that? I'll bet you don't replace the air in your tires with fresh stuff, either.



Now that's overkill. Anyone knows you only need to change air twice a year. Fall air works just fine for Winter and Spring air is good for Summer - just need to top off or bleed some out. Generally, for each 10 degree change in temp, your tire pressure changes by 1 psi.


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## Cedarkerf (Aug 20, 2008)

Ya need to put nitrogen in your tires just like they use in airplanes only cost ya 35 bucks to have it done and soak your rims in oil before reinflating so they dont rust.


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## slowp (Aug 21, 2008)

Cedarkerf said:


> Ya need to put nitrogen in your tires just like they use in airplanes only cost ya 35 bucks to have it done and soak your rims in oil before reinflating so they dont rust.



Helium would be better. Then there might be "less ground disturbance" and the 'olgists would be happy and let skidders work on steep ground. But don't oil the seat. 

And you probably shouldn't oil the handle on the saw either. Duck tape it instead.


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## GASoline71 (Aug 21, 2008)

Holy crap! This was like pokin' an anthill with a stick!!!



Gary


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## Fish (Aug 21, 2008)

It all boils down to the size of the stick.....


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## ZeroJunk (Aug 21, 2008)

I store my chains under a pyramid, never need sharpening.




> pyramids act as "an effective resonator of randomly polarized microwave signals which can be converted into electrical energy." [1] Flanagan's claims range from enhancing the nutritional value of foods to sharpening knives. He reported that a razor blade placed in a pyramid "resonator" became smoother and less angular over time.


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## redprospector (Aug 21, 2008)

I can not friggin believe this thread is still alive.oke: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: 

Andy


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## Gologit (Aug 21, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> Holy crap! This was like pokin' an anthill with a stick!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Gary



We knew you'd like it.


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## Bruce Hopf (Aug 21, 2008)

spacemul said:


> I know what you were talking about. In the end, it's all about greasing your bar though, isn't it. :hmm3grin2orange:


No. It' giving your new chain a little more lubrication for the first initial start of the chains life on the saw. It takes a couple or more revolutions of the chain on the bar before the oiler has pumped sufficient oil to lubricate the chain properly, and as well as the bar. Bruce.


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## stihl sawing (Aug 21, 2008)




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## Fastcast (Aug 21, 2008)

It's like life support.....somebody please pull the plug!.....


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## buzz sawyer (Aug 21, 2008)

*Vote*

OK, let's just keep it simple and end this - everyone vote yes or no - 

Do you pre-soak your chains?


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## slowp (Aug 21, 2008)

buzz sawyer said:


> OK, let's just keep it simple and end this - everyone vote yes or no -
> 
> Do you pre-soak your chains?



Only with water. It is usually raining here.


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## Cedarkerf (Aug 21, 2008)

buzz sawyer said:


> OK, let's just keep it simple and end this - everyone vote yes or no -
> 
> Do you pre-soak your chains?


I dont know maybe I do maybe I dont maybe I should maybe I shouldn't. Advice on this subject please.


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## stihl sawing (Aug 21, 2008)

Only in french fry oil, I love the smell of fried taters and wood in the morning.


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## buzz sawyer (Aug 21, 2008)

ROFLMAO!!!!! :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


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## buzz sawyer (Aug 21, 2008)

stihl sawing said:


> Only in french fry oil, I love the smell of fried taters and wood in the morning.



Now would that be the new non-transfat oil or the old poison kind that we all loved? Which would be better for the chain? You'd have to keep the old kind warm or it turns into Crisco. Then big clumps would be slinging off your bar as you blip the throttle.


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## stihl sawing (Aug 21, 2008)

Only virgin olive oil will do.


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## Cedarkerf (Aug 21, 2008)

:blob5:


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## Nailsbeats (Aug 21, 2008)

My dad makes his own chains, soaks them in oil and hangs them. I do the same. It works well.


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## Fastcast (Aug 21, 2008)

stihl sawing said:


> Only virgin olive oil will do.



Well, most of my food is soaked in "extra" virgin olive oil....I'd try it on my chains, may even be good enough to eat!.....If only it wasn't so damn expensive......


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## secureland (Aug 22, 2008)

Gentlemen, don't forget that soaking your bars in extra virgin oil increases performance as well.


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## Lakeside53 (Aug 22, 2008)

First Cold pressed is best...


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## GASoline71 (Aug 22, 2008)

How about maple syrup?

Gary


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## Austin1 (Aug 22, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> How about maple syrup?
> 
> Gary


Depends on the grade of syrup, you know that stuff is graded?


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 22, 2008)

buzz sawyer said:


> Now that's overkill. Anyone knows you only need to change air twice a year. Fall air works just fine for Winter and Spring air is good for Summer - just need to top off or bleed some out. Generally, for each 10 degree change in temp, your tire pressure changes by 1 psi.



But you need to be careful where that air is imported from. It should be from the southern hemisphere in the fall and northern in spring. 

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 22, 2008)

spacemule said:


> I know what you were talking about. In the end, it's all about greasing your bar though, isn't it. :hmm3grin2orange:



All about greasing your *what*!?

Harry K


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## SawTroll (Aug 22, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> No. It' giving your new chain a little more lubrication for the first initial start of the chains life on the saw. It takes a couple or more revolutions of the chain on the bar before the oiler has pumped sufficient oil to lubricate the chain properly, and as well as the bar. Bruce.




Yes, and that is all there is to it - the effect should be marginal at best......


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## GASoline71 (Aug 22, 2008)

Austin1 said:


> Depends on the grade of syrup, you know that stuff is graded?



I do... I like a light syrup myself... 

Gary


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## buzz sawyer (Aug 22, 2008)

I even soak my fuel in oil before using it!


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## Fastcast (Aug 22, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> First Cold pressed is best...



Ah, yea that would be "extra".....You better stick with bar oil! :hmm3grin2orange:


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## stihl sawing (Aug 22, 2008)

buzz sawyer said:


> I even soak my fuel in oil before using it!


yup me too. even throw in some marvel mystery oil ever now and then.



GASoline71 said:


> How about maple syrup?
> 
> Gary


MMMM. Pancakes. Now i'm ready for breakfast.


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## Darkness77 (Aug 22, 2008)

stihl sawing said:


> Only in french fry oil, I love the smell of fried taters and wood in the morning.



Have you ever smelt the bio diesel stuff that guys make from chip oil. Burn that in your ute before breakfast. Instant hunger. Smells like fish n chips, yumm.


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## Hugenpoet (Aug 22, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> I do... I like a light syrup myself...
> 
> Gary



Nothin' better than Massachusetts Grade A Light Amber.


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## stihl sawing (Aug 22, 2008)

Darkness77 said:


> Have you ever smelt the bio diesel stuff that guys make from chip oil. Burn that in your ute before breakfast. Instant hunger. Smells like fish n chips, yumm.


Yep, Have tried it before, It's hard to get so i don't burn it. But the smell was like sitting in a geasy spoon restaurant. Kinda bad though just driving down the road and your cholesterol will go sky high from the smell.


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## occ3377 (Aug 25, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> Space Mule.
> You go and tell that to any, I mean Any Farmer, and I Garentee You they will tell you to go Pound Rubber. When it comes to Planting Season, Haying Season, or Harvest Season, Every Farmer Over Does It with Mantenence, because a lot of the time, WE have to deal with a sometimes Nasty B!tch called Mother Nature, and we have to deal with a lot of Catchey Weather.
> When it is fit to operate, We Have to be on the Go, and make Bloody Sure that Our Equipment is In Top Working Order. If not, when we get a lot of catchy Weather, and with Equipment Down, when the weather is good, can Make Or Break Us.
> So Since I'm a Farmer As Well, SO GO POUND RUBBER. NOW WHO IS STUPID ONE???



haha!! what are you a hobby farmer, #### will break on the farm when it wants to, maintence or no maintence, if #### breaks while you need it you just fix it as much as you need to get it to do the job and fix it up fully later


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## Bermie (Aug 25, 2008)

Looky here...
A bunch of guys didn't soak their chains, they overheated and when the oil finally got to them, well just LOOk at the smoke!!


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## Bermie (Aug 25, 2008)

Dear Mr. Bruce Hopf,

Thank you for allowing us to exercise our somewhat questionable sense of humour!  

You posted a question, in all innocence and fell SPLAT into the roasting pit. You have emerged somewhat intact, you didn't descend to the pits of tit for tat or complete schoolyard nonsense, I salute you!

I think you now qualify as an AS member in good standing, having stood the test of fire...and have provided us a venue for some VERY funny comments.

You just keep oiling your chains good fellow, and to h$!! with what the rest of us say! CHEERS!


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## taplinhill (Aug 25, 2008)

Hugenpoet said:


> Nothin' better than Massachusetts Grade A Light Amber.



...........except Vermont Fancy!!!!!!!


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## taplinhill (Aug 25, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> I do... I like a light syrup myself...
> 
> Gary


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## tatra805 (Aug 25, 2008)

page 12 ??????????????????????

If not broken in twice that chain should already be used in the mean time...


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## romeo (Aug 25, 2008)

Makes perfect sense to me. Like soaking your wang in ky before a big date.
:fart:


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## Bruce Hopf (Aug 26, 2008)

occ3377 said:


> haha!! what are you a hobby farmer, #### will break on the farm when it wants to, maintenance or no maintenance, if #### breaks while you need it you just fix it as much as you need to get it to do the job and fix it up fully later


Any thing under 1000 acres is a Hobby Farm. I operate with my Inlaws 2200 acres cash crops consisting of Wheat, Corn, Soy Beans, Both Non GMO, and GMO beans, Edible Beans, and Alfalfa Hay Crop. We also do 4000 acres of Custom Work as well, consisting of Cultivating, Planting, Spraying, Plowing, Combine work, Custom Hay Cutting, Custom Small Square Baling, Round Baling, and this year Large Square Bailing of Hay and Wheat Straw. As well as Custom Trucking. Also do Custom Forage Harvester Work for Haylage, and Corn Insalage
Sure things break down, But Preventive Maintenance goes a lot further than you think.
Bruce.


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## blackoak (Aug 26, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> Any thing under 1000 acres is a Hobby Farm. I operate with my Inlaws 2200 acres cash crops consisting of Wheat, Corn, Soy Beans, Both Non GMO, and GMO beans, Edible Beans, and Alfalfa Hay Crop. We also do 4000 acres of Custom Work as well, consisting of Cultivating, Planting, Spraying, Plowing, Combine work, Custom Hay Cutting, Custom Small Square Baling, Round Baling, and this year Large Square Bailing of Hay and Wheat Straw. As well as Custom Trucking. Also do Custom Forage Harvester Work for Haylage, and Corn Insalage
> Sure things break down, But Preventive Maintenance goes a lot further than you think.
> Bruce.



Good God man you are one busy man. Where do you find the time to soak a chain. With what all you have to maintain running the farm soaking a chain would be the least of my worries.


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## Fish (Aug 26, 2008)

So is "pounding rubber" any fun? What does it entail? It sounds kinky enough, might give it a whirl.....

Is it a "Stihl Academy" fraternity paddling deal, with secret "hand"shakes?

I tried shaving my cat, that didn't work out too well...........

Didn't do a thing for either of us.........

You guys and your phrases.............................


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## stihl sawing (Aug 26, 2008)

Fish said:


> So is "pounding rubber" any fun? What does it entail? It sounds kinky enough, might give it a whirl.....
> 
> Is it a "Stihl Academy" fraternity paddling deal, with secret "hand"shakes?
> 
> ...


LOL, Would like to see a video of the cat shaving.


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## THALL10326 (Aug 26, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> I was wondering, how you other Guys, Break in your new Chain Saw Chains.
> I like to let my chains soak in Bar Oil plastic tub with a lid on it, for over night, and let them hang for over another night, to let the some of the excess Bar Oil drip off them into another plastic tub, so I don't get Bar Oil, all over the floor. I then install the New Chain onto the Chain Saw, and take the saw outside.
> Being that my old McCulloch Chain Saws, have Manual Oiler's as well, I pump extra Bar Oil onto the New Chain, while running the saw at mid way to wide open, but not wide open. I run the Chain Saw like this, for about 5 to 10 minutes. After that I then retighten up the New Chain, and cut wood for a few minutes, and check the chain tension again for tightness.
> So I was wondering how you Fellas on AS break in your New Chains? I know that there are Makes of Chain Saws out there that do not have Manual Oilers on them, and it would be nice to see how you Guys go about New Chainsaw Chain Break in. Thanks. Bruce.



Bruce you must come from old school. I've had many many old timers tell me thats exactly how they do their chains, new ones and old ones alike. Many have told me as they store all their chains in oil when not in use. They claim it prevents stretching but I've never tried it myself. My oldest brother is a big believer in soaking chains in oil before using them. I myself merely rip it out the box, toss it on the saw and go for wood. Does seen a new chain requires a few adjustments fairly early before it stettles down with the stretching so your theory may well have some merit there.


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## Darkness77 (Aug 26, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> Any thing under 1000 acres is a Hobby Farm. I operate with my Inlaws 2200 acres cash crops consisting of Wheat, Corn, Soy Beans, Both Non GMO, and GMO beans, Edible Beans, and Alfalfa Hay Crop. We also do 4000 acres of Custom Work as well, consisting of Cultivating, Planting, Spraying, Plowing, Combine work, Custom Hay Cutting, Custom Small Square Baling, Round Baling, and this year Large Square Bailing of Hay and Wheat Straw. As well as Custom Trucking. Also do Custom Forage Harvester Work for Haylage, and Corn Insalage
> Sure things break down, But Preventive Maintenance goes a lot further than you think.
> Bruce.



Bruce isn't custom spelt with a K?


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## Bruce Hopf (Aug 26, 2008)

THALL10326 said:


> Bruce you must come from old school. I've had many many old timers tell me that's exactly how they do their chains, new ones and old ones alike. Many have told me as they store all their chains in oil when not in use. They claim it prevents stretching but I've never tried it myself. My oldest brother is a big believer in soaking chains in oil before using them. I myself merely rip it out the box, toss it on the saw and go for wood. Does seen a new chain requires a few adjustments fairly early before it settles down with the stretching so your theory may well have some merit there.


Thall.
No I'm not from the Old School, LOL, But I've been taught the Old School Ways. I Guess I'm like an Old Dog, that can't be taught new tricks.
Now I've never heard of chains stretching when not in use. Seizing up yes. I've had a few links get seized now and again while not being in use. Some times they get a little wet from a few snowflakes if I'm cutting in the winter, and the snow isn't too deep. 
When I go to the Bush, and cut wood, I take a few chains for each saw, and when my chain gets dull, I put a sharp one on, and keep cutting. I was never any good at sharpening free hand, so I always sharpened my chains in the basement with an Oregon Filing Guide, up until 6 years ago I bought a Bench Chain Saw Grinding Machine for Sharpening my Chains. Bruce.


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## Bruce Hopf (Aug 26, 2008)

Darkness77 said:


> Bruce isn't custom spelt with a K?


Darkness.
Sorry, Custom is spelt with a C, not a K.
Being you are from Australia, have you ever heard of a Company Called Pro-ma? They are an Australian Based Company. Have you heard of their Performance Products they have out? 
I don't know too much about them, and I was wondering if you know any thing about them, or Their Products.
This Ethanol Gas that we have is Reeking Havoc with my Vehicles, and Small Engines. I have 6 of my Chain Saws down right now with Carburetor Troubles, and waiting for a Shipment to come if with Repair Kits, and I'm looking for something good to combat the moisture from the Ethanol Gas.
A friend of mines Neighbor was telling me about it, and I'm a little Skeptic about it. Thanks. Bruce.


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## retired redneck (Aug 26, 2008)

*Soaking Chains*

Some do some don't, some will some won't, do what ever turns your crank....


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## tdi-rick (Aug 27, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> Darkness.
> Sorry, Custom is spelt with a C, not a K.
> Being you are from Australia, have you ever heard of a Company Called Pro-ma? <snip>



Bruce, I've heard of Pro-Ma, but have usually lumped their products in with most snake oil.

Two good fuel additives that you can get in NA are Fuel Power Plus from LCD Inc ( http://www.lcdinc.com/ ) and a fuel additive from Renewable Lubricants. ( http://www.renewablelube.com/ )
They both combat the problems with the aromatics in ethanol added petrol. (which is also playing merry hell with the lubricating oil too)

Neither is easy to get here, so I use Redline RL2 in all our diesels, but I have to talk to Bill Garnier from RLI soon so I can use some of their products for a couple of problem applications.


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## Darkness77 (Aug 27, 2008)

:agree2:


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## GASoline71 (Aug 30, 2008)

Bump...

LMAO 

Gary


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## Fastcast (Aug 30, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> Bump...
> 
> LMAO
> 
> Gary



:notrolls2: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


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## redprospector (Aug 30, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> Bump...
> 
> LMAO
> 
> Gary



Garry, that was just plain mean!
I saw the title and thought gawd, I can't believe this crap. 

Andy


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## gafirefighter (Aug 30, 2008)

Back at it I see. I wonder if this could make it to 1000 posts.

Adam


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## Fish (Aug 30, 2008)

He is after my title.

He can be "vice" instigator, and I would be cool with that.

I just couldn't turn my back.

The title itself is not that great, but that quarterly stipend check sure comes
in handy..

I almost got promoted to moderator, but they told me I was too much of a "softy", they bring down the big bucks..........


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## belgian (Sep 19, 2008)

A few hundred years from now, scientists will probably wonder where the expession " *Go soak a chain !" *came from.

they will probable find the answer here in this thread !:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :wave:


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## SawTroll (Sep 19, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> .....
> I don't know about you guys, but after looking at it this way does make some sense. I don't know, you tell me. Thanks. Bruce.



It *does* make sense, the real question is if it makes enough differense to mirit the trouble........


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## heimannm (Sep 19, 2008)

Like so many other advances in technology and design, chain materials & manufacturing & lubrication at the factory have improved. As a result, the need to soak a new chain is virtually eliminated. 

Certainly it can't hurt to soak a chain in oil other than being a bit messy, and it may help for those first seconds (or parts of seconds) before the automatic oilers start pumping oil to the bar.

All of the old McCulloch instructions stated soaking was needed to insure a the longest possible life of the chain. Maybe they knew something about how the chains were made.

At least one of my old Model 35 McCulloch saws doesn't even have the bar/chain oil feeding through the groove in the bar, it just shoot a stream (manually pumped) onto the surface of the chain. 

With our old saws equipped with manual oilers, you can always pump some oil into the chain and even pull it around by hand to distribute if you are so particular. I don't often think to do that except on a saw that has been setting for a long time and is really dry.

Same could be said for old mix instructions, 16:1 was pretty typical for old equipment but with better technology and engineering we can use 40:1, 50:1, or higher (according to the Amsoil gang)and still be O.K. The old McCulloch instructions said 40:1 with their oil, 16:1 with anything else. Later on in a techical bulletin they indicated that 16:1 could be a problem with loss of power, excess carbon, etc. and recommended going to 20:1 or 24:1.

Things change...

Mark


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## stihl sawing (Sep 19, 2008)

Even though he did call me an instine, I will have to agree with bruce on a couple of points. If you are a firewood cutter and don't use your saws that much then i can see keeping you're chains in some oil so they don't get rusty from just hanging in the humidity. Although have never had one rust from hanging, But i suppose it's possible. Now if you use your saw a lot i don't see any point in it as the chains will be used a quite often. I don't soak my chains new or old in anything and never will but it can't hurt anything. Now the pulling the starter cord out when you shut the saw off is a whole different deal. Also the thread is kept alive. lol


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## buzz sawyer (Sep 19, 2008)

*Prestretched*

Just bought a new Stihl chain for the 361. I didn't see anything about soaking but it did say it was pre-stretched.


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## Soilarch (Sep 19, 2008)

Looks like everyone on AS has commented here...and I'm bored before the usual Friday night festivities. So here's my routine.

I like PB Blaster, works on nuts and bolts that laugh at WD40.

Because of that, PB Blaster is what's on hand. I take my chains that aren't going to be used and throw in a ziploc with a 4 second spray of PB into the bag. When I put a fresh chain on the bar I spray a stream of PB down the length of the bar. Then I go to.


What does this accomplish, likely nothing, other than keeping the used chains from rusting. Certainly wouldn't worry if I suddenly ran out of PB. 


A couple pages back there was some talk about farmers believing in over-maintenance. It's true. We go threw everything before and several times during the planting season. If its questionable, it's replaced. I'm usually the grease monkey. And sadly, I know first hand that the one grease fitting that's hard to get to, or that one bearing that's iffy......will take definitely come back to get you. It's better to replace $100 of "high-wear" parts, even if only $20 NEEDED replaced than to be down-and-out for half a day when you've waited a week for it to dry and you've got another 1.5" coming tomorrow morning.

Then again I just cut for firewood. Being down-and-out for a day might be a welcomed relief


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## heimannm (Sep 23, 2008)

Old McCulloch instructions on breaking in a new chain:








Mark

:deadhorse:


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## SawTroll (Sep 23, 2008)

heimannm said:


> Like so many other advances in technology and design, chain materials & manufacturing & lubrication at the factory have improved. As a result, the need to soak a new chain is virtually eliminated.
> 
> Certainly it can't hurt to soak a chain in oil other than being a bit messy, and it may help for those first seconds (or parts of seconds) before the automatic oilers start pumping oil to the bar.
> 
> ...




Exactly! :agree2:


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