# Sharpening Tools With A File - Advice Please



## TNTreeHugger (Jun 16, 2016)

Rather than buy new tools, I thought I'd see if what I already have is usable..
two sizes of hedge trimmers
Pruning saw
ax




I've sharpened the pruning shears and the hedge trimmers.
I found markings on the trimmers:
Keen Kutters, Solid Steel, Hand Forged, England
I've cleaned them up with a soap brillo pad, dried them, and spritzed with WD40.



Do they look okay? Do I need to do anything else with them?


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## Ted Jenkins (Jun 16, 2016)

Many of these tools can be sharpened with a file or a 4.5" hand grinder starting out at $12. I have a small hand file that I use to keep my pruning saw razor sharp. I deal with buck thorn bushes on a regular basis. I used to use a small chain saw to cut them back from the trail and my arms and legs came out more bloody than the bushes. So I mounted a 6 foot handle to a blade, but it would get dull pretty fast being next to the dirt. So tried a couple of hand files setups and found the perfect one. It takes only about 10 minutes to bring it back to perfect condition. Thanks


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 16, 2016)

Ted Jenkins said:


> Many of these tools can be sharpened with a file or a 4.5" hand grinder starting out at $12. I have a small hand file that I use to keep my pruning saw razor sharp. I deal with buck thorn bushes on a regular basis. I used to use a small chain saw to cut them back from the trail and my arms and legs came out more bloody than the bushes. So I mounted a 6 foot handle to a blade, but it would get dull pretty fast being next to the dirt. So tried a couple of hand files setups and found the perfect one. It takes only about 10 minutes to bring it back to perfect condition. Thanks


Can you describe your hand file set up, please?
I used the hand file, just holding the tool in my lap, with a towel on my knee.
I suppose a vise would work better? I'll have to see if there is one in my barn...


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## Del_ (Jun 16, 2016)

An interesting read:

https://www.amazon.com/Razor-Edge-Book-Sharpening/dp/096660590X


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## Woos31 (Jun 16, 2016)

I've done the same with a saw file and or flat file, then a strip of emery cloth bout a foot long and run it back and forth for axes or I'd do if I had shears like OP photos and lawn mower blades. With some fiddling around with hand placement for the stroke of your emery cloth, you can get it to form to the angle put on your tools from the manufacturer. I know there are better ways but I'm a cheap a$$ and only use what's in the shed plus my elbow grease is pretty cheap too.


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 16, 2016)

Del_ said:


> An interesting read:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Razor-Edge-Book-Sharpening/dp/096660590X


I don't know... the reviews are mixed.


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 16, 2016)

Woos31 said:


> I've done the same with a saw file and or flat file, then a strip of emery cloth bout a foot long and run it back and forth for axes or I'd do if I had shears like OP photos and lawn mower blades. With some fiddling around with hand placement for the stroke of your emery cloth, you can get it to form to the angle put on your tools from the manufacturer. I know there are better ways but I'm a cheap a$$ and only use what's in the shed plus my elbow grease is pretty cheap too.


"Emery cloth" what's that and where do you get it?


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 16, 2016)

I think the saw came out great looking - even cuts, too!


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 16, 2016)

So, on those hedge trimmers... I want to sharpen that beveled edge on each half only, right? Not the back flat side?
I went over the back side, just to smooth it out, but kept the file flat on the surface. Is that okay?


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## Woos31 (Jun 16, 2016)

TNTreeHugger said:


> "Emory cloth" what's that and where do you get it?


It's usually reddish color with a black underside, comes in rolls and say 1" wide. Very flexible like cloth and I get it at the hardware or parts house. Basically is super fine sand paper put on cloth, but you can remove a fair bit of metal with a bunch of it. Or have you seen the flapper grinding wheels for a 4" power grinder? This emery cloth is very similar and is in a roll on light fabric that tears like duck tape


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 16, 2016)

Woos31 said:


> It's usually reddish color with a black underside, comes in rolls and say 1" wide. Very flexible like cloth and I get it at the hardware or parts house. Basically is super fine sand paper put on cloth, but you can remove a fair bit of metal with a bunch of it. Or have you seen the flapper grinding wheels for a 4" power grinder? This emery cloth is very similar and is in a roll on light fabric that tears like duck tape


So, after I sharpen with the hand file, I should go over the edge with the emery cloth?


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## Woos31 (Jun 16, 2016)

Woos31 said:


> It's usually reddish color with a black underside, comes in rolls and say 1" wide. Very flexible like cloth and I get it at the hardware or parts house. Basically is super fine sand paper put on cloth, but you can remove a fair bit of metal with a bunch of it. Or have you seen the flapper grinding wheels for a 4" power grinder? This emery cloth is very similar and is in a roll on light fabric that tears like duck tape


If you get on the Google monster and search emery cloth it'll show you what it's about and where you can find it


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## Woos31 (Jun 16, 2016)

TNTreeHugger said:


> So, after I sharpen with the hand file, I should go over the edge with the emery cloth?


I do but probably cuz I'm Very OCD and it will even out any ridges and imperfections left behind from filing. Maybe it's thinking too far into it but I always think of it as a smooth sharp surface will cut easier and cleaner than an uneven sharp surface say like serrated edges, because basically that's what is created only in microscopic form


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## Del_ (Jun 16, 2016)

TNTreeHugger said:


> I don't know... the reviews are mixed.



I wouldn't put much faith in the Amazon reviews. I bought and read the book shortly after it was published.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/192257-John-Juranitch-razor-edge-guy


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## Franny K (Jun 16, 2016)

TNTreeHugger said:


> Rather than buy new tools, I thought I'd see if what I already have is usable..
> two sizes of hedge trimmers
> View attachment 508750
> 
> Do they look okay? Do I need to do anything else with them?


I would suggest retiring those hedge clippers and getting ones that have some cushioning feature as they snap closed. Sharpening something like for me seems tricky, to get the whole length to cut nicely seems elusive. There must be some adjustment at the pivot and curvature to the blade to get the right pressure holding the blades against each other. I seem to end up having to make some of this force at the handles.


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## ANewSawyer (Jun 16, 2016)

TNTreeHugger said:


> So, on those hedge trimmers... I want to sharpen that beveled edge on each half only, right? Not the back flat side?
> I went over the back side, just to smooth it out, but kept the file flat on the surface. Is that okay?



No, not really. But it is not like you ruined A priceless pair of headge trimmers. Scissor and opposed blade tools like this are supposed to be ground on the one bevel only. Raise a burr on the back side then close the blades a couple of time and it will remove the burr. If you aren't raising a burr, you aren't sharpening. The burr is raised on the side opposite the one being ground.

Don't worry, I made a lot of mistakes when I started sharpening. I suggest reading on bladeforums, in the axe subforum and the sharpening subforum. I am not a very good sharpener but those people are fantastic. They can whittle a hair with a pocketknife. Not that that helps with life tasks...


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 16, 2016)

Del_ said:


> I wouldn't put much faith in the Amazon reviews. I bought and read the book shortly after it was published.
> 
> http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/192257-John-Juranitch-razor-edge-guy


I always read and consider the reviews - on anything. While some may have just had a fluke bad experience, and some may exaggerate positive, or negative, there is usually some truth to be found in the reviews.
Does the book offer techniques specific to gardening tools?


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 16, 2016)

Franny K said:


> I would suggest retiring those hedge clippers and getting ones that have some cushioning feature as they snap closed. Sharpening something like for me seems tricky, to get the whole length to cut nicely seems elusive. There must be some adjustment at the pivot and curvature to the blade to get the right pressure holding the blades against each other. I seem to end up having to make some of this force at the handles.


I agree they need to be in retirement.... that's why they're in such bad shape. 
I have a newer pair and a pair of long handled loppers that I've been using. I pulled these out to "practice" sharpening on before I tackle my good ones.
I can't recall the brand, but they are just like these:



They need sharpening, but I don't want to make them worse than they are.
Also have a good pair of shears, too, similar to these:




I did notice on the old hedge clippers I sharpened there is a gap between the two blades when closed. Wonder how that happened, if it's supposed to be like that, and if not, how to get rid of it??


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 16, 2016)

ANewSawyer said:


> No, not really. But it is not like you ruined A priceless pair of headge trimmers. Scissor and opposed blade tools like this are supposed to be ground on the one bevel only. Raise a burr on the back side then close the blades a couple of time and it will remove the burr. If you aren't raising a burr, you aren't sharpening. The burr is raised on the side opposite the one being ground.
> 
> Don't worry, I made a lot of mistakes when I started sharpening. I suggest reading on bladeforums, in the axe subforum and the sharpening subforum. I am not a very good sharpener but those people are fantastic. They can whittle a hair with a pocketknife. Not that that helps with life tasks...


Do you mean only one of the blades should be sharpened??


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## ANewSawyer (Jun 16, 2016)

No, both blades should be sharpen bit only sharpen the bevel, that is cutting edge. It isn't like a knife where there are two sides of the same blade to be sharpened. You just sharpen the outer side, not the flat. Sorry, I was unclear. I hatentyping on a tablet.

You will find that a lot of scissors have that gap. It is not uncommon for the blades of scissors to ride upon each other. The blades are, on purpose, bent inwards to give the shearing action needed to cut the material. Let me find a video, be right back.


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## ANewSawyer (Jun 16, 2016)

I enjoyed this whole video but if you will watch starting at 3:30 you will see what I am talking about:


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 16, 2016)

ANewSawyer said:


> I enjoyed this whole video but if you will watch starting at 3:30 you will see what I am talking about:



Cool video.


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## Westboastfaller (Jun 17, 2016)

I just serviced all my parents tools when I was over. Most all of them needed tightening and sharpening. You definitely need to oil then tighten them to zero side play . One set of shears had a big slot screwdriver head and I could only completely tighten them with a chisel and hammer. Flat files need to be in good shape. Moisture ruins them fast. The file in the picture does not resemble a file anymore. As Woos and prepahs others are saying is hold the file on both end and cross file. Wipe or tap the filings out regularly and keep it dry and it will last you. Get a good brand and not to coarse for this application. Don't get the filings in your eyes.


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 17, 2016)

Westboastfaller said:


> I just serviced all my parents tools when I was over. Most all of them needed tightening and sharpening. You definitely need to oil then tighten them to zero side play . One set of shears had a big slot screwdriver head and I could only completely tighten them with a chisel and hammer. Flat files need to be in good shape. Moisture ruins them fast. The file in the picture does not resemble a file anymore. As Woos and prepahs others are saying is hold the file on both end and cross file. Wipe or tap the filings out regularly and keep it dry and it will last you. Get a good brand and not to coarse for this application. Don't get the filings in your eyes.


I bought a new file yesterday at the hardware store.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nicholson-10-in-Bastard-Cut-Mill-File-21839/100148489
The clerk and I read over the labels and the only difference we could see was the length. I bought another 10". Is there another type of bastard file that is better for axes and garden tools?


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## Westboastfaller (Jun 17, 2016)

Excellent! Nicholson makes great flat files. That's a great start.


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## Ted Jenkins (Jun 17, 2016)

I use a small electric grinder ( 4 1/2" ) to reshape the axe, shears, etc. A bastard file has very course teeth and is very good for taking large amounts of material or reshaping the tool you are working on. You are not finished yet. Then you will need a conventional file to do the fine tuning. Emery cloth is a little difficult to use on tools so I use a sandstone or sharpening stone. It is more easy to sharpen tools than to go to the hardeware store to replace. Thanks


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## scallywag (Jun 17, 2016)

TNTreeHugger said:


> The clerk and I read over the labels and the only difference we could see was the length. I bought another 10". Is there another type of bastard file that is better for axes and garden tools?


 
There are many different grades in files, Bastard, double cut, fine, coarse, etc.....Here's a few tips, when your filing an edge always work into the blade not away and never touch the working surface of your file with your hands.


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 17, 2016)

Ted Jenkins said:


> I use a small electric grinder ( 4 1/2" ) to reshape the axe, shears, etc. A bastard file has very course teeth and is very good for taking large amounts of material or reshaping the tool you are working on. You are not finished yet. Then you will need a conventional file to do the fine tuning. Emery cloth is a little difficult to use on tools so I use a sandstone or sharpening stone. It is more easy to sharpen tools than to go to the hardeware store to replace. Thanks


What kind of sharpening stone do you use?
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...=m570.l1313&_nkw=ax+sharpening+stone&_sacat=0
I think I have th one that looks like a brick in the barn - know I've seen it before, didn't know what it was.


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## TNTreeHugger (Jun 17, 2016)

scallywag said:


> There are many different grades in files, Bastard, double cut, fine, coarse, etc.....Here's a few tips, when your filing an edge always work into the blade not away and never touch the working surface of your file with your hands.


Got it!


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