# Morbark 2400 YR 1997



## ducaticorse (Dec 4, 2010)

110 cummins, no autofeed, 2500 hrs. 

Need to upgrade from my bandit 150, and want atleast a 15, preferably an 18 under class a. What are your thoughts on this particular machine? Thanks.


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## lone wolf (Dec 4, 2010)

ducaticorse said:


> 110 cummins, no autofeed, 2500 hrs.
> 
> Need to upgrade from my bandit 150, and want atleast a 15, preferably an 18 under class a. What are your thoughts on this particular machine? Thanks.



If that is a 24 inch with 110 hp I would think its underpowered. How many inch is it?


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## ducaticorse (Dec 4, 2010)

lone wolf said:


> If that is a 24 inch with 110 hp I would think its underpowered. How many inch is it?



I would say the same thing if it was a whole tree chipper. But it's advertised as an 18 inch.


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## lone wolf (Dec 4, 2010)

ducaticorse said:


> I would say the same thing if it was a whole tree chipper. But it's advertised as an 18 inch.



Mine is 200 horsepower and I would not want smaller.We dont have to dump any garbage wood that is not good for firewood we chip it all. What happened to the bandit you were looking at?


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## ducaticorse (Dec 4, 2010)

lone wolf said:


> Mine is 200 horsepower and I would not want smaller.We dont have to dump any garbage wood that is not good for firewood we chip it all. What happened to the bandit you were looking at?



It was the deal of the century from the research I did, but it was a class a weight. DOT is a PITA around Boston, and I can't be getting shut down for towing a trailer I'm not properly licensed for. 

PLUS, even though it was a screaming deal, it is still 7500 more than this morbark. I've bought a new to me chip truck and a log loader in the last 2 months. I really need to spend my pennies carefuly going into slow season.


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## lone wolf (Dec 4, 2010)

ducaticorse said:


> It was the deal of the century from the research I did, but it was a class a weight. DOT is a PITA around Boston, and I can't be getting shut down for towing a trailer I'm not properly licensed for.
> 
> PLUS, even though it was a screaming deal, it is still 7500 more than this morbark. I've bought a new to me chip truck and a log loader in the last 2 months. I really need to spend my pennies carefuly going into slow season.



What you need a cdl to pull that weight?


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## ducaticorse (Dec 4, 2010)

lone wolf said:


> What you need a cdl to pull that weight?



Any trailer 10001 is CLASS A, doesn't matter if you're pulling it with a ford fiesta, or a mack truck.


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## lone wolf (Dec 4, 2010)

ducaticorse said:


> Any trailer 10001 is CLASS A, doesn't matter if you're pulling it with a ford fiesta, or a mack truck.



How much trouble to get that license? The horsepower seems light to me for an 18 inch . What are you running now?


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## ducaticorse (Dec 4, 2010)

lone wolf said:


> How much trouble to get that license? The horsepower seems light to me for an 18 inch . What are you running now?



Class A and B require studying and a road test. Most class a drivers around here go to tractor trailer school at a cost of around 3 grand or higher. To take the test you need to rent a flawless combo, or if it's class b a flawless truck over 
26k gvwr. The DOT driving test instructor tears #### apart that you show up to drive in during pre trip inspection. = huge pita to pull a 10k plus trailer. 

I have a ground up rebuilt 97 gas bandit 150 now. so pretty much anything is a big step up lol.


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## lone wolf (Dec 4, 2010)

ducaticorse said:


> Class A and B require studying and a road test. Most class a drivers around here go to tractor trailer school at a cost of around 3 grand or higher. To take the test you need to rent a flawless combo, or if it's class b a flawless truck over
> 26k gvwr. The DOT driving test instructor tears #### apart that you show up to drive in during pre trip inspection. = huge pita to pull a 10k plus trailer.
> 
> I have a ground up rebuilt 97 gas bandit 150 now. so pretty much anything is a big step up lol.



well all I can say is get the biggest most horsepower that you possible can dont jump in to fast.


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## ducaticorse (Dec 4, 2010)

lone wolf said:


> well all I can say is get the biggest most horsepower that you possible can dont jump in to fast.



Within reason. We do a lot of work in tight quarters, another reason why the 1890 was a bit more than I needed. I think this 2400 may be a good option.


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## lone wolf (Dec 4, 2010)

ducaticorse said:


> Within reason. We do a lot of work in tight quarters, another reason why the 1890 was a bit more than I needed. I think this 2400 may be a good option.



My 1890 fits in everywhere we work I like it it gets rid of whole pine trees.


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## ducaticorse (Dec 4, 2010)

lone wolf said:


> My 1890 fits in everywhere we work I like it it gets rid of whole pine trees.



I would like to chip whole trees, but I'm small scale as of now, and I don't skid or crane load my chipper (because I don't have either). Anything too big goes to the prentice.


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## CUCV (Dec 4, 2010)

Is the 1890 still available?


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## ducaticorse (Dec 4, 2010)

CUCV said:


> Is the 1890 still available?



I'd be happy to connect you with the seller. I can forward you pics of it too. It's in unreal condition with unbelievably low hours. It still has it's certificate of origin, never been registered.


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## lone wolf (Dec 4, 2010)

ducaticorse said:


> I would like to chip whole trees, but I'm small scale as of now, and I don't skid or crane load my chipper (because I don't have either). Anything too big goes to the prentice.



A winch will work wonders you wont believe how easy it makes things go. Something you should get with the chipper. You wont regret a winch.


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## ducaticorse (Dec 4, 2010)

lone wolf said:


> A winch will work wonders you wont believe how easy it makes things go. Something you should get with the chipper. You wont regret a winch.



Doesn't have a winch, but i can see the benefit by having one. Do they mostly run off of the hydraulic system if I were to install one?


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## lone wolf (Dec 4, 2010)

ducaticorse said:


> Doesn't have a winch, but i can see the benefit by having one. Do they mostly run off of the hydraulic system if I were to install one?



yes


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## Paul001 (Dec 8, 2010)

The 2400 is an 18 inch unit. With the 4 cyl. engine package, well consider it as a heck of a 15 inch unit. Great for handling tops, larger wood, well it'll struggle.

If it's a non XL Version (very likely 97/98 were the break points) it will not have the fan along side the drum. Meaning light leafy material, punky wood, wet pine, etc will cause it to plug up. Only solution to this is only run new blades, those that have been resharpened will not generate enough velocity to push that material out of the chute.

Take a look at the anvil mounting area. Way to many operators never bothered to adjust the anvil after having their knives sharpened. Resulting in a huge increase in impact force, anvil mounts will bend/break (typical with any drum type machine). Has the anvil been flipped (ask the customer, then verify by taking a look. You should be able to see even the back side of the anvil edge that is currently being used. Is it sharp or rounded. If it's rounded, likely they have kept up on flipping/adjusting.

Bearing: Engage the PTO and bring the unit to full throttle. Disengage the PTO and shut off the engine. You'll be able to hear if there is bearing noise, main drum bearings. If they are original likely you'll need to replace $1K. You'll also be able to hear the output bearing on the PTO. Is there slop in the PTO handle (meaning does it bounce around not the normal end play). 

While the drum is slowing down, watch for excessive vibration. I normally set my coffee cup on the fender while I'm looking around the unit. Excessive vibration with knock that cup off the fender. This will let you know if the drum is out of balance.

Open the access door to the knives (*AFTER THE DRUM HAS COME TO A STOP*) and take a look at the knife holders. The middle of the holder will be worn back (where it supports the knives). Take a look at the difference between the sides and middle. Much more than a 1/4" is excessive. Another $1K to replace.

You should be able to fit your hand between the tires and fenders. If your hand will not fit, likely the bushings on the torflex axle are shot. Should also see excessive wear on the tires (like a car that needs an alignment).

Plan on draining the hyd system, flushing and replacing with fresh fluids/filters.

Pull the air filter and look inside the tube, do you see dirt? If so that means your getting dirt inside the engine (doesn't take much more than a couple tea spoons to wipe out an engine).

General check of the infeed (pay attention where it bolts to the drum housing there should be 4-6 bolts (depending on year) on each side. Are they there? Does it appear it's been patched? Later units had a frame extension added that supports the weight of the infeed, instead of being held in place by those bolts only. Units that were machine loaded or seen very heavy use or worse driving on nasty roads at high speeds, were subject to cracking in this area. Not a tough repair, just labor intensive and costly if you can not do it yourself.

After all the above, go run the unit and make an informed decision based on that.

But based on what you are saying, it sounds like you should be looking at a model 15 (2005 plus if possible so you get the reversing auto feed, electronic auto feed system, Hyd. down pressure, etc). 130/140 HP with a winch. Price range for such a unit in good condition ~$25K.

Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.


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## ducaticorse (Dec 8, 2010)

Paul001 said:


> The 2400 is an 18 inch unit. With the 4 cyl. engine package, well consider it as a heck of a 15 inch unit. Great for handling tops, larger wood, well it'll struggle.
> 
> If it's a non XL Version (very likely 97/98 were the break points) it will not have the fan along side the drum. Meaning light leafy material, punky wood, wet pine, etc will cause it to plug up. Only solution to this is only run new blades, those that have been resharpened will not generate enough velocity to push that material out of the chute.
> 
> ...



Excellent info. Thank you.


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