# Fertilizing White Oaks



## UrbanHunter (Feb 13, 2007)

Hi Everyone,

I am new to this site but I am learning about the native plants and trees here in Ga. and am somewhat self taught. I would like to know is it better to fertilize white oak trees by digging a hole with post diggers at the dripline about 2' deep, pouring in 13-13-13 and putting about 6" of dirt on the top, or just broad casting around the dripline.

Thanks for the help!:greenchainsaw:


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## elmnut (Feb 13, 2007)

Of the two I would pick broadcasting, IMO deep root fertilization is the best method. I can't see any benefit from the post hole digger at the drip line method. If you were to use a 2" diameter auger 3' on center starting at the base of the tree and working out to the dripline(vertical mulching)you can add nutrients and relieve compaction. When ferting with any method, make sure to use the proper amount of material.(get a reference book) Good luck!


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## DonnyO (Feb 13, 2007)

*I'm with elmnut*

Deep root is the way to go, providing you did a soil test first.


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## UrbanHunter (Feb 13, 2007)

Ok. But do you think just broadcasting on top of the ground around the roots would be beneficial. I don't have the equipment to do the drilling.


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## PA Plumber (Feb 13, 2007)

UrbanHunter said:


> Ok. But do you think just broadcasting on top of the ground around the roots would be beneficial. I don't have the equipment to do the drilling.



Absolutely. It has been recommended to me for a stand we have, by the local district forester and a timber management company.


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## UrbanHunter (Feb 13, 2007)

PA,

Did they tell you what type of fertilizer to use? 10-10-10? etc

Thanks


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## DonnyO (Feb 13, 2007)

*you have to test!*

How can you know what to add if you don't know what is lacking?????:crazy1:


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Feb 13, 2007)

Here's a great old thread on the subject:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=22247
I crack me up. :hmm3grin2orange:

Do not deep fertilize! 
You don't want to just go fertilize trees. You need to do a few soil tests, and then only add what's needed. Typically, soil fertility of mature trees is good, or if anything, too high in nitrogen. Only a soil test can say for sure.

Is there a specific problem with the oaks? It's very unlikely that the problem is soil fertility.


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## treeseer (Feb 13, 2007)

Soil testing is cheap or free. Your county extension agent will give you what you need. How can you know what to add until you know what is there?

Drilling 2" holes will cut some roots, and glaze the soil so nutrients won't spread laterally. Using a post hole digger will cut many roots, and putting fert in those holes will burn the rest. 

The trunk, branches and leaves are the most obvious parts of the plants to examine, but the landscape below ground is equally important. Armed with $100 in tools and following a few basic principles, arborists can learn a lot about how the earth surrounding a tree’s roots is affecting tree vitality.

A pH meter is a very useful soil-measuring tool, reading the soil’s reaction (pH), as described in the December 2006 CEU article in Arborist News. A soil probe is a simple T-shaped tool that is pressed or twisted into the earth and extracts a core of soil. This core of soil typically contains an A horizon below the mulch, turf, or groundcover; a B horizon below that where the organic matter blends into the native soil; and a C layer of less permeable subsoil, the parent material from which the soil was formed. Many of the nonwoody roots are typically found in the A horizon. White roots extending into the B horizon indicates a high level of oxygen there, where the tree can harvest enough resources fuel its various functions. 

Urban soils are often disturbed, with a jumble of material from different horizons interspersed. Touching the soil also can reveal much about its properties. For example, if moist soil is rolled into a cylinder and it crumbles easily, it may be low in clay. A sour smell indicates anaerobic, low-oxygen conditions hostile to root growth, while a sweet smell can signify that beneficial, aerobic bacteria and fungi are at work. A hand lens is useful in finding fine roots, mycorrhizal strands, and other interesting things, such as soil insects.
Earthworms, arthropods, and other organisms aerate the soil and convert organic matter and minerals into forms more available to the tree. A number of references have reported that one cup of undisturbed native soil may contain the following: 200 billion bacteria, 20 billion protozoa, 100,000 meters of fungi, 100,000 nematodes and 50,000 arthropods. There are ways to encourage beneficial soil organisms:
•	Use organic mulches for weed control, and amend the soil with composted organic material to provide a food source for soil organisms.
•	Avoid over irrigation and **excessive use of fertilizers**, so the organisms do not drown or burn.
•	Irrigate during periods of drought. Soil organism activity may be reduced due to dry soil conditions that are common in certain times of the year.
•	Avoid unwarranted pesticide applications. Some fungicides, insecticides, and herbicides are harmful to various types of soil organisms.
•	Use organic mulches to reduce soil compaction forces, moderate temperature, and maintain soil oxygen levels needed by beneficial soil organisms and roots.
Uncompacted soils have less root rot because they have better drainage, thanks to more pore space that air and water travel through. This pore space helps define the soil’s structure.


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## PA Plumber (Feb 13, 2007)

UrbanHunter said:


> PA,
> 
> Did they tell you what type of fertilizer to use? 10-10-10? etc
> 
> Thanks




I'll check my stewardship plan and get back to you on this. See next quote.





DonnyO said:


> How can you know what to add if you don't know what is lacking?????:crazy1:



Easy Fellas, If this is directed at me let's diffuse this. My answer was that topical application of fertilizer is effective and recommended. I too agree that a soil test needs to be done. Our local conservation district will send it to Penn State to have it done. I don't believe there is a charge. There is at least a 4 week waiting period.


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## PA Plumber (Feb 13, 2007)

UrbanHunter said:


> PA,
> 
> Did they tell you what type of fertilizer to use? 10-10-10? etc
> 
> Thanks



Okay, this is quoted from my Stewardship plan:

"There is a grove of white oak trees located west of the bench about where the trail is located, here is a good place to encourage white oak growth by fertilizing the trees with 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of about 100 lbs/ac. Broadcast the fertilizer throughout this area and under the white oak canopy."

That's the quote ver batum. This was written by The Forest Management Center located at 123 Cherry Rd. Liverpool, PA dated August 5, 2005.

I still agree about the soil test needing done. Maybe The Forest Management Center uses this mixture as a "good rule of thumb" for fertilizing white oaks in our area. I don't know why they give this specific fertilizer ratio.


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Feb 13, 2007)

1 acre = 43 560 square feet
100 pound bag of 10-10-10 has 10 pounds of nitrogen.
This means their dose is about .23 pounds nitrogen per 1000 sq/feet.

That's a safe dose almost irregardless of soil tests, because it's so low.
I suspect it's a feel good dose prescribed as a placebo to people who inquire about fertilizing trees.


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## UrbanHunter (Feb 13, 2007)

*Thanks Guys for the Info*

The whole deal here is to create sweeter acorns to concentrate the deer that I hunt. It is well known that deer will walk through a grove of unfertilized white oaks to feed exclusively at the ones that are.

Thanks for the professional opinions and more suggestions are welcomed!:rockn:


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## treeseer (Feb 13, 2007)

UrbanHunter said:


> The whole deal here is to...concentrate the deer that I hunt.


Salt lick? Corn? How about planting hostas?


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## ATH (Feb 14, 2007)

treeseer said:


> ....This core of soil typically contains an A horizon below the mulch, turf, or groundcover; ....


You get an A horizon? I thought they always sold that off for top soil  

As for surface applications: Is this in the woods in in the yard? Topical applications over turf will not get much nutrient to the tree roots.

Drip line applications...you will do more benefit concentrating the fertilizer within 3-4' of the trunk than out at the dripline. And I agree that auger is not the best way to do this.

I suspect that you need a shot of nitrogeon to improve acorn flavor. But as everybody else said, soil testing will confirm that. I have not seen any publications suggesting what rates you want for acorn flavor. Most recommendations are written for tree health. As I said, i am guessing your goals mean higher nitrogen which could compromise overall tree health. Too much nitrogen (assuming it doesn't burn the tree first) encourages the tree to put its resources into top growth and less into rooting and storage.


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Feb 14, 2007)

ATH said:


> As for surface applications: Is this in the woods in in the yard? Topical applications over turf will not get much nutrient to the tree roots.



Surface applications are the best, lawn or not. The only way to stop grass from competing for nutrients is to remove the grass. Feeder roots of trees are mostly in the top few inches of soil.



ATH said:


> Drip line applications...you will do more benefit concentrating the fertilizer within 3-4' of the trunk than out at the drip-line. And I agree that auger is not the best way to do this.


You never want to concentrate fertilizer. You want to apply it as evenly as possible to the entire root system. Thats why auguring it into the soil is stupid, you just make a few hot spots that just burn roots.

Roots grow where soil conditions favor them. This could be 2 feet from the trunk or 5 times the trees height away, or more. If you did a statistical analysis of root location, you'd likely find roots located throughout the drip-line and just beyond, then slowly being less concentrated as you get farther away.
The lower concentration as you move away from the tree is simple geometry, and has nothing to do with where roots like to grow.
The drip line is an area where roots are slightly more concentrated because rain water tends to drip there. Roots like water, and the higher soil gas exchange associated with it.


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## treeseer (Feb 14, 2007)

Mike's right, for a change. :jester: 

"you will do more benefit concentrating the fertilizer within 3-4' of the trunk than out at the dripline."

The opposite is true. Concentrating nitrogen near the base of big oaks is just asking for disease, since decay orbanisms feed on excess N.


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Feb 14, 2007)

treeseer said:


> Mike's right, for a change. :jester:



It's good to see you finally coming around to my way of thinking. You agree with me more and more as time passes. 
Maybe you just don't have the fight in you anymore...


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## DonnyO (Feb 14, 2007)

PA Plumber said:


> I'll check my stewardship plan and get back to you on this. See next quote.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




No offense bro. I'm just getting tired of explaining the whole concept of fertilizing responsibly. I agree with Mike Maas that this sounds like a feel good placebo. Your original post never mentioned what you were fertilizing for or why. On a public forum like this it can never be stated enough that : A soil test shoud be the FIRST STEP in any fertilizer application. You came here for good advice right?


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## PA Plumber (Feb 14, 2007)

DonnyO said:


> No offense bro. I'm just getting tired of explaining the whole concept of fertilizing responsibly. I agree with Mike Maas that this sounds like a feel good placebo. Your original post never mentioned what you were fertilizing for or why. On a public forum like this it can never be stated enough that : A soil test shoud be the FIRST STEP in any fertilizer application. You came here for good advice right?



I appreciate the aknowledgement. No offense taken.


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## treeseer (Feb 14, 2007)

Mike Maas said:


> It's good to see you finally coming around to my way of thinking. You agree with me more and more as time passes.
> Maybe you just don't have the fight in you anymore...


Au contraire, there's less to fight with you about because YOU have come around to MY way of thinking.:hmm3grin2orange: 

If you want to pm me your email, I'll send you a piece on reduction, just to get the blood boiling again. It may run pale, and turn the boards pink!

O, and re fertilization, sometimes I broadcast 10-10-10 without a soil test. If the surface is just leaves, it helps em break down faster and blow less. 'Hey PA, let us know how the test goes, ok?


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## PA Plumber (Feb 14, 2007)

You bet. Just did the TSI thinning this past late spring. Plan to leave things be until this coming spring and get back at it.

With how busy things have been I forgot all about fertilizing until being reminded again by this thread.

I have two food plots and the TSI area that all need soil tests done for this coming growing season. Plan to get all the samples and turn them in at the same time.


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## kevinj (Feb 14, 2007)

It's great to want to fertilize oaks, 
but it's another thing to draw in deer.
I have many oaks, fertilizing them will not mean more acorn production.
Or make them sweeter. 
I think what you need is to be more aware and more in tune to attracting deer to your area. 
A Food Plot is the answer.
I am a member of the QDMA. Quality Deer Danagement Association.
Go to their website; qdma.com.
Everything is there to help you !!


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## UrbanHunter (Feb 14, 2007)

*Hi Kevin*

I hunt urban tracts of land adjacent to commercial and residential developments. 

Yes, I have been reading the food plot article on the QDMA website and they are VERY informative. The situation here is that I don't know if this property that I hunt will be here next month or not so I don't want to invest time and money in a plot only to have it cleared for development a month later. 

I think that when I do a plot that it will be the ladino and white clovers and chicory and maybe wheat mixed in. These articles are the most indepth that I have ever read on plot and I plant to follow the suggestions to the letter, including the weed control.


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## PA Plumber (Feb 14, 2007)

I had a acre food plot with White Clover last year. Fantastic amount of deer traffic. Plan to leave it in New Zealand white clover for 4 more years. The next 1 acre plot I am not sure what to do yet. I am thinking oats/soybeans or wheat/corn. Turkey and deer love all that stuff.

I sure am getting a lot of groundhogs though.


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## UrbanHunter (Feb 14, 2007)

*Hey PA*

Did you have to do the weed kill deal?


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## PA Plumber (Feb 14, 2007)

A lot of the first food plot was new growth trees and multiflora rose. I used a track loader to clean everything up to bare ground. 

My plan was to buy a tractor with a brush hog and mow 3 times a year for weed control.

I ended up keeping the dozer to put in another food plot (attached picture). I have about 3/4 of an acre cleared. Once I get 1 acre done, I have a logging job for the track loader involving a lot of Hemlocks. The second picture is what the food plot looked like in the beginning.

I may not get my tractor and mower this coming year either. Man the weeds and locust trees sure spring up fast!!


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## UrbanHunter (Feb 15, 2007)

*Man, that's a Great looking area!*

If you had a tractor with plows, that would keep the weeds at bay for a while as well as bushhogging. Sure appears to be thick around that plot. If I had an opening that big to plant in my urban property, it would be a goldmine sure 'nuff!:greenchainsaw:


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## PA Plumber (Feb 15, 2007)

The first food plot I put in was not quite as thick and the one the pictures show. The deer mostly live in this area, but go to the neighbors to eat. Well, I would like them to eat locally. There is a creek that runs to the right of the food plot showing the track loader. 

Since we have owned the property (almost 2 years) the deer numbers have increased. I have been limiting the buck harvest as much as possible (can't do anything about the neighbors). Also, there were only a couple of does around at first. Now we have a local herd of about 12 and more come in in the winter.

I want my family to have a place to hunt safely. All of our children are 4 and under so not doing much hunting yet though. They do love going up there to walk and play in the creek. Hopefully we will enjoy the place in the years to come. If not, there will be a lot of ground for sale in the future.


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## Log Splitter (Feb 15, 2007)

Urbanhunter,

I KNEW by your handle and your question we were talking about feeding deer!

I'm no arborist, but have been known to fertilize the white oaks that are near my stands.

I had a soil test done for my food plots, and I simply treat the soil around my white oaks in the same way, i.e. lime and 13-13-13 per acre according to what was recommended by the test. 

Again, I'm no arborist, but I will say that the fertilized trees produce many more acorns than the ones that do not get treated. 

Good luck with your deer management program, and if you shoot a big 'un next fall post a picture back here.


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## UrbanHunter (Feb 15, 2007)

*Thanks Log Splitter.....*

for the verification. I took a nice 13 pt. in an urban county near Atlanta, Ga. this past season with a crossbow and as soon as I figure out how to post the pics, I will. Do you think the administrators will allow the pics?:rockn:


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## PA Plumber (Feb 15, 2007)

UrbanHunter said:


> for the verification. I took a nice 13 pt. in an urban county near Atlanta, Ga. this past season with a crossbow and as soon as I figure out how to post the pics, I will. Do you think the administrators will allow the pics?:rockn:



Make sure you resize them to about 33% give or take. Keeping them smaller allows dial up to load faster. I'll send you a pm.


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## PA Plumber (Feb 15, 2007)

Nice pictures, he is sure a dandy. I'll have to ding you for that one.


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## UrbanHunter (Feb 15, 2007)

*How "Bout Now Above Your Last Post?*

Great Hunt. I found this pear tree behind an abandoned house just loaded and dropping. However, being the good hardwoods hunter I am I eased past the house into them and watched a scrape till about dark. I sneaked back up to the tree and sure enough there were 4 feeding under it. I hung a stand in a pecan tree about 15 ft. from the back door of the house and 10 yards from the pear tree. Hung the stand at 2pm, got in at 4pm eating peanuts and shot him at 630pm. I watched him for about 10 minutes and he almost choked while trying to swallow a pear whole.


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## ATH (Feb 17, 2007)

Log Splitter said:


> .....
> I had a soil test done for my food plots, and I simply treat the soil around my white oaks in the same way, i.e. lime and 13-13-13 per acre according to what was recommended by the test.
> .....


Clover and white oak have different nutrient requirements. The biggest concern is the lime. what is your soil pH? If it tested 6.0 or higher, I'd strongly reconsider the lime. Even as low as pH 5.0-5.5 it is probably unnecessary for optimal tree health. If you are bringing the soil close to pH 7or higher definately quit liming around the white oaks.

I have not seen any studies about acorn "flavor" (read lower tanic acids) and soil pH. I suspect that there is little or no relationship...trees do not take the acid out of the soil, they make it on their own with nutrients they take out of the soil. Higher pH soils can make some of those nutrients harder to get out of the soil.


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## Log Splitter (Feb 17, 2007)

ATH said:


> Clover and white oak have different nutrient requirements. The biggest concern is the lime. what is your soil pH? If it tested 6.0 or higher, I'd strongly reconsider the lime. Even as low as pH 5.0-5.5 it is probably unnecessary for optimal tree health. If you are bringing the soil close to pH 7or higher definately quit liming around the white oaks.



I can't recall the pH of the soil that was tested, ATH, but since my land is in northwest Louisiana I know the pH is pretty low. All my paperwork is over there at my camp (I live near Dallas now), so I can't say right now how much lime per acre was recommended for the food plots. I do recall spreading 15 tons of lime on the 7 acre pond prior to filling it, so the soil is pretty acid.

I spread the lime and fertilizer in some places in the woods, and one of the goals is to increase acorn production. The other goal, since acorns only feed the deer for a short time in the fall, is to increase the quality and quantity of the natural browse that is available to the deer. Browse, unlike acorns, feeds the deer year around. In any case I doubt I'm putting down enough lime to raise the pH anywhere near 7 as despite the heavy treatment on the pond the pH of the water in the pond is still low (need to add another treatment of lime).

Since UrbanHunter is in Georgia, which is pine tree country too, I mentioned the lime since his soil is most likely very acidic as well. But then, I'm no arborist  , so he might want to be sure and tell the guys that do his soil test that he's trying to increase white oak acorn production.


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## UrbanHunter (Feb 17, 2007)

*Soil Test*

Hey guys,

I am gonna take soil samples from around several of the trees and send them to UGA for analysis. Once I get the results, I will know what to do.:rockn:


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## ATH (Feb 17, 2007)

Log Splitter said:


> .............one of the goals is to increase acorn production. The other goal, since acorns only feed the deer for a short time in the fall, is to increase the quality and quantity of the natural browse..............


I just wanted to make sure that you realized that higher pH can acutally have a negative impact on white oak. As long as you are aware of that, it sounds like you are doing quite well. If you need to bring the pH closer to 7 for the other browse, it might be a good idea grow that away from the dripline of your white oak trees.

Unless you are really trying to bring the pH up, it sounds like you probably will not have any concern.


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## UrbanHunter (Feb 17, 2007)

*Thanks ATH.....*

I need all the info I can muster.......I am not new to food plots, just new to doing them right......:rockn:


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## cryo stops wear (Feb 18, 2007)

*nuts*



UrbanHunter said:


> The whole deal here is to create sweeter acorns to concentrate the deer that I hunt. It is well known that deer will walk through a grove of unfertilized white oaks to feed exclusively at the ones that are.
> 
> Thanks for the professional opinions and more suggestions are welcomed!:rockn:



phc bio pak plus is great for white oaks .
also cambistat is good for the tree and will yield twice the nuts. read directions closely...


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## PA Plumber (Apr 13, 2007)

treeseer said:


> 'Hey PA, let us know how the test goes, ok?




Soil test does have a price tag. $9.00 for test kit and another couple of bucks to mail in the soil sample to Penn State.

As it turns out, my soil is below optimum for White Oaks. There are 10 values of lab results. Recommendation for my situation for this year only:

Apply 21 lb/100 sq. ft. Doomitic Limestone
Apply 3.5 lbs/100 sq. ft. of 5-10-5 fertilizer
Apply 0.75 lbs /100 sq. ft. of 0-46-0 fertilizer


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## Log Splitter (Apr 13, 2007)

Thanks for the follow up PA Plumber! And I'm glad to see they recommended the lime since I told you I was doing that around my white oaks as well. ATH makes a good point, however, about not raising the pH too much since white oaks apparently prefer the soil to be slightly acid.


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## Duke13 (Apr 25, 2007)

Why not have the arborist where you work help you on this one. He will do it if you let him hunt there!


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## PA Plumber (Apr 25, 2007)

Duke13 said:


> Why not have the arborist where you work help you on this one. He will do it if you let him hunt there!



Welcome to AS Duke. 

Man, I have a lot of projets I would trade for hunting... Painting the house, fixing the gutter, repairing screens...


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## Woodie (Apr 25, 2007)

PA Plumber said:


> Soil test does have a price tag. $9.00 for test kit and another couple of bucks to mail in the soil sample to Penn State.
> 
> As it turns out, my soil is below optimum for White Oaks. There are 10 values of lab results. Recommendation for my situation for this year only:
> 
> ...



I'd love to know what in the heck their point is in getting you to put down that much phosphorous. Phosphorous in high quantities can have very negative effects on other soil characteristics, to the point of wiping out plants' abilities to get at other nutrients. 

In addition, phosphorous doesn't leach much, but it can runoff, so I would be very careful in putting down that kind of phosphorous near any waterways.

Those numbers look suspicious to anyone else here?


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## PA Plumber (Apr 25, 2007)

If I can figure out how, I'll try to scan the test results and post them.


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## PA Plumber (Apr 25, 2007)

wood_newbie said:


> I'd love to know what in the heck their point is in getting you to put down that much phosphorous. Phosphorous in high quantities can have very negative effects on other soil characteristics, to the point of wiping out plants' abilities to get at other nutrients.
> 
> In addition, phosphorous doesn't leach much, but it can runoff, so I would be very careful in putting down that kind of phosphorous near any waterways.
> 
> Those numbers look suspicious to anyone else here?


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## Woodie (Apr 25, 2007)

Dang, PA...Ph and calcium numbers like that you ought to cut down all your oaks and plant blueberries!!!

I'm not an agronomist, but that sure seems to me like a he11 of a lot to put down in one year. 

If your site is on a hill, a lot of that phosphorous is going to wash away into the watershed, so if that's the case try your best to work it down into the soil. Phosphorous can have some serious effects on water. 

Good luck!


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## PA Plumber (Apr 25, 2007)

I appreciate your input. Seems a little disconcerting that an institution like PennState would make these recommendations with outregard to a potential water shed area. You would think they would at least put in a disclaimer.


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## Woodie (Apr 25, 2007)

PA Plumber said:


> I appreciate your input. Seems a little disconcerting that an institution like PennState would make these recommendations with outregard to a potential water shed area. You would think they would at least put in a disclaimer.



I take it you are near water there?


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## PA Plumber (Apr 25, 2007)

About 3/8 of a mile away on a down hill slope.


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## Woodie (Apr 25, 2007)

PA Plumber said:


> About 3/8 of a mile away on a down hill slope.



Give the school a call...most of the time land-grant schools are good about making their people accessible for situations like yours, and I bet they would be willing to discuss the situation with you on the phone.

It bears repeating...I am not an agronomist. Most of my knowledge comes having known one and from doing lots of "independent research" (read: surfing the web). 

In the grand scheme of things, that may not actually be a whole boatload of phosphorous...especially if you're talking about a small area. And adsorption rates might just mean that none of that would make it to the lake...I just don't have the knowledge to say. 

But high phosphorus in a lake means algae blooms...and that can strangle a lake. 

Bottom line: quit listening to an amateur goofball like me and seek professional help! (From an agronomist...  )

p.s. And seriously think of planting some blueberries...they would grow like dandelions there!


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## PA Plumber (Apr 25, 2007)

wood_newbie said:


> Give the school a call...most of the time land-grant schools are good about making their people accessible for situations like yours, and I bet they would be willing to discuss the situation with you on the phone.
> 
> It bears repeating...I am not an agronomist. Most of my knowledge comes having known one and from doing lots of "independent research" (read: surfing the web).
> 
> ...




I do know the black raspberries and wild blueberries are growing like crazy in close proximity to the soil test. The blueberries are very small but delicious.


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## Woodie (Apr 25, 2007)

PA Plumber said:


> I do know the black raspberries and wild blueberries are growing like crazy in close proximity to the soil test. The blueberries are very small but delicious.



I knew it...soil like that there's no way blueberries wouldn't be there!

Wild blueberries are pretty much all small, but it you wanted, you could put some hybridized high bush in there and get blueberries the size of canned hams. Plenty of 'em, too.


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## PA Plumber (Apr 25, 2007)

wood_newbie said:


> I knew it...soil like that there's no way blueberries wouldn't be there!
> 
> Wild blueberries are pretty much all small, but it you wanted, you could put some hybridized high bush in there and get blueberries the size of canned hams. Plenty of 'em, too.



Sounds like a great idea, except I'm guessing the turkeys, deer, grouse, woodcock, local mama bear with two cubs, deer, racoons, chipmunks, birds, etc... would be pretty hard on them. As is stands now, if I happen to catch the berries when they are ripe, I only have a couple of days before they are completely gone.


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## ATH (Apr 25, 2007)

PA Plumber said:


> Sounds like a great idea, except I'm guessing the turkeys, deer, grouse, woodcock, local mama bear with two cubs, deer, racoons, chipmunks, birds, etc... would be pretty hard on them.


Isn't you main question about fertilizing oaks for better wildlife habitat? So.....sounds like feeding them blueberries might fit right in with what you want to do.


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## PA Plumber (Apr 26, 2007)

ATH said:


> Isn't you main question about fertilizing oaks for better wildlife habitat? So.....sounds like feeding them blueberries might fit right in with what you want to do.



There's lots of wild stuff for them to eat. I hate to go buy a bunch of blueberry trees and have them ravished by the animals. The point of this fertilizing excercise was to improve the white oak trees for production harvest, not animal habitat. I have a couple of food plots in a selected area I am improving for deer. If the acorn production increases from fertilizing, so be it. I would rather just have the trees grow better.

I think UrbanHunter wanted increased acorn production.


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