# First time using the Mini-Mill



## SteveG (Feb 21, 2010)

My setup is a Stihl 361 18"bar (.325 63ga) using RC chain. After building a work platform I first milled a cedar that produced a 7"x6"x8' cant, second was a smaller cedar, 5"x5"x8', and a 6"x6"x6' oak. I can certainly understand now why everyone suggests a larger saw. Even with the smaller logs it bogged my CS. The 18" bar, I think, will work fine for the size logs I'll be milling. I am going to order a 22" though. When first starting the milling I was nervous about being so close to the chain. Now that I have 3 under my belt I'm more comfortable with the mini-mill. My first observation concerning the mill itself was "why doesn't Granberg supply a second bracket that attaches to the 2x6 allowing the right side of the mill to ride underneath thereby keeping the mill at 90". I checked TSC yesterday to see if they had some pre-fabbed rails that would fit the mill. They didn't but will try Lowe's or HD. Has anyone tried this? 

Yesterday, I dropped an ash, cut 3 lengths of 6' and have them ready to mill. The largest log is 8" diameter at the small end, the two others are 6" or a little less. 

Questions to the group.

I just used latex paint to seal the ends. Is there something better?

Would it be better to have the guy that mills for me cut the lumber now or is it okay to let the cants dry under a roof and wait a year or so before having them cut to 2 by? 

http://www.arboristsite.com/images/smilies/angryfire.gif 
The oak that I got out of the woods had a concrete nail in the trunk. We've lived here 25+ years so someone, years ago, must have posted a sign on that tree.


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## OhioGregg (Feb 21, 2010)

Looking Good SteveG,

I don't have a mini-mill, but got to see one of the members here Stipes, run his at a GTG last fall. It work splendidly well! I think he added a plexiglass sheild to his for a little better hand protection. Your lower hand does run close to the chain!
He uses a J-Red 2186 on his, and runs great! Hopefully he will see this thread, he can give ya lots of help or advice with Mini-Mill. Hes a great fella.








Gregg,


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## peterrum (Feb 21, 2010)

I use latex paint to seal the end of my logs as well however there is a product out there specifically designed for that, Anchorseal it is called. Just search this site and you will find lots of information about it. Alot of the guys swear by it and say that its better than paint. I have never used it myself.

I think that it is better to saw the logs fresh as it is easier on the saw. When they dry out the wood is harder to cut. I only know this from cutting firewood.


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## mtngun (Feb 21, 2010)

Yep, the mini-mill is "tippy". You just gotta practice pushing it down against the board so it doesn't tip.

Anchorseal on the East Coast, or Bailey's sealer on the West coast. Latex paint is better than nothing. Will Malloff recommended aluminized roofing sealer, which you can get at home depot.

Gee, who would have thought a 60cc saw would be too small for milling ?  I gave up arguing with people who want to use their little saws. Let 'em try it, they'll figure it out for themselves and have fun in the process.

BTW, I started milling with a 33cc saw. 

Thanks for the pics.


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## BobL (Feb 21, 2010)

SteveG said:


> When first starting the milling I was nervous about being so close to the chain. Now that I have 3 under my belt I'm more comfortable with the mini-mill.


Nervous is not good - but wary is. 



> My first observation concerning the mill itself was "why doesn't Granberg supply a second bracket that attaches to the 2x6 allowing the right side of the mill to ride underneath thereby keeping the mill at 90". I checked TSC yesterday to see if they had some pre-fabbed rails that would fit the mill. They didn't but will try Lowe's or HD. Has anyone tried this?


What do you mean "ride underneath", do you mean underneath the 2 x 6" ?



> I just used latex paint to seal the ends. Is there something better?


Latex paint is fine. SOme of the specialist sealing products are quite waxy and never dry properly leaving them slightly tacky which I don't like.



> Would it be better to have the guy that mills for me cut the lumber now or is it okay to let the cants dry under a roof and wait a year or so before having them cut to 2 by?


I'd get it cut now.



> The oak that I got out of the woods had a concrete nail in the trunk. We've lived here 25+ years so someone, years ago, must have posted a sign on that tree.


How was your chain after that?


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## 820wards (Feb 22, 2010)

OhioGregg said:


> Looking Good SteveG,
> 
> I don't have a mini-mill, but got to see one of the members here Stipes, run his at a GTG last fall. It work splendidly well! I think he added a plexiglass sheild to his for a little better hand protection. Your lower hand does run close to the chain!
> He uses a J-Red 2186 on his, and runs great! Hopefully he will see this thread, he can give ya lots of help or advice with Mini-Mill. Hes a great fella.
> ...



Gregg,

My friend and I were just up at the Gandberg factory on Friday. They are located on Mare Island here in the SF Bay Area. Nice bunch of people up there. We talked to John about getting an Alaskan Mill for my friend and he gave him a great deal because it didn't need to be wrapped and shipped. He even knocked off $15 because some plating on one of the pieces wasn't up to there standards. We got lost on the island and had to call them for direction, it was still fun. 

But, for the mini-mill it looks like you really cut that log pretty easy. I started today making my own version of a mini-mill that will also convert for quarter sawing oak and other hard woods. 


Basic parts for mill.





End shot showing guide rail. I will make this with slots to raise it up and down depending if I will be ripping a side cut or quarter sawing. I didn't have the all-thread rod I need so that's a trip to the HW store this week.







I''l be taking measurements of the materials I use and post them on a new thread when I'm done.

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126379&stc=1&d=1266817239


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## BobL (Feb 22, 2010)

One of the worst things about mini mills is getting covered in sawdust while using it. People that stand on the side watching this don't quite realize with a PITA it is. Jerry, if you are making something I'd recommend making something that fully grabs the guide rail so that the saw can be used to cut with the top of the bar rather than the bottom. This ejects the sawdust down instead of up and makes for a much more comfortable milling experience. 

A link to my minimill is in my sig. It's probably way too complicated for most folk but you may get some ideas from it. It requires a rethink of the vertical mill design but someone with your fabrication skills should be easily able to do it.


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## SilverBox (Feb 22, 2010)

SteveG said:


> I just used latex paint to seal the ends. Is there something better?
> 
> Would it be better to have the guy that mills for me cut the lumber now or is it okay to let the cants dry under a roof and wait a year or so before having them cut to 2 by?



Cheers on the first Millings!!! 

Latex paint will work fine.

I'd cut the cants now if it was me. Then stack them and weight them till they dry. What are you planning on using the wood for?


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## SteveG (Feb 22, 2010)

Nervous is not good - but wary is. 

_I looked up both meanings and agree. I was wary; careful, aware, marked by keen caution_.


What do you mean "ride underneath", do you mean underneath the 2 x 6" ?

_I was thinking a piece of U shaped metal much like the V channel that comes with the mini mill but this would run parallel on the right of the mill to catch the right hand portion of the mill holding it down so you don't have to supply as much downward pressure to keep the saw at 90 degrees to the 2x6. _


How was your chain after that?

_I had to have the chain sharpened in town. They removed about half of the cutters to get the damage removed. It was almost new too._


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## SteveG (Feb 22, 2010)

SilverBox said:


> Cheers on the first Millings!!!
> 
> Latex paint will work fine.
> 
> I'd cut the cants now if it was me. Then stack them and weight them till they dry. What are you planning on using the wood for?



My plan is to build a small shed/chicken coop combo using the cedar as siding (1/2 to 3/4) and the hardwood for 2 x material. I'd like to build a post and beam type structure elevated on piers so as to easily remove the chicken litter. It's a real PITA now to shovel out their coop by hand a couple times a year and I'd like to keep it dryer for them after a downpour. 

The guy that does the milling for me charges .35 BDF and is close by. I'll need to find some covered area to stack the lumber if I get it milled now. My garage is the only place I have big enough that is covered that I can get 10-15' lumber. Once my brother-in-law moves here and gets his stuff out I'll have plenty of room to stack it.


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## stipes (Feb 22, 2010)

*Nice Job....*



SteveG said:


> My setup is a Stihl 361 18"bar (.325 63ga) using RC chain. After building a work platform I first milled a cedar that produced a 7"x6"x8' cant, second was a smaller cedar, 5"x5"x8', and a 6"x6"x6' oak. I can certainly understand now why everyone suggests a larger saw. Even with the smaller logs it bogged my CS. The 18" bar, I think, will work fine for the size logs I'll be milling. I am going to order a 22" though. When first starting the milling I was nervous about being so close to the chain. Now that I have 3 under my belt I'm more comfortable with the mini-mill. My first observation concerning the mill itself was "why doesn't Granberg supply a second bracket that attaches to the 2x6 allowing the right side of the mill to ride underneath thereby keeping the mill at 90". I checked TSC yesterday to see if they had some pre-fabbed rails that would fit the mill. They didn't but will try Lowe's or HD. Has anyone tried this?
> 
> Yesterday, I dropped an ash, cut 3 lengths of 6' and have them ready to mill. The largest log is 8" diameter at the small end, the two others are 6" or a little less.
> 
> ...



I wanted to make some fireplace mantles out of this tree...I didnt have a longer bar on me to use on the Alaskan so I went with the mini mill to slab it....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3q37Rn1Js8
The wind is your best friend with the mini mill,,yeah,,still get covered with some sawdust,,but go 90 degress away and it keeps alot off of you....
I first got my mini mill it was off about 1/4 a inch tru a cut,,,I posted my prob. and had alot of people tell me,,and I didnt realize with the instructions I got with it,,,,You take the power head off and just clamp your bar on and loosen the 2 bolts on the side for adjustment...Set the bottom of the mini mill on a flat table,,and have the bar over hanging,,and square from there...You want to make sure the bottom surfaces are perfect flat when tighten back up..
Longer you use it,,you'll find out you'll have alot of control with the powerhead ,,keep it from being tippy...A nice sharp chain makes the world of diffrence too...I always keep a couple of loops for spares to change out....I bought them from Baileys,,,woodland pro,,and nice chains for the money....
Thank you Gregg.....That was a fun day ,,and enjoyed myself....Look forward to seein you at the next GTG!!!!


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## ScottHightower (Feb 22, 2010)

*Chicken Coop Plans*

I like your idea of an elevated chicken coop with an easy clean out.

I found quite a variety of plans to choose from at this site:
http://handymanplanstore.com/chicken-coop-plans/

Not sure if you are a chicken rookie or not but make sure you also have the nest just a little lower than the main coop. Just a couple of inches makes a difference. Chickens like to nest in the lowest point in the coop.

Scott


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## BobL (Feb 22, 2010)

> SteveG said:
> 
> 
> > Nervous is not good - but wary is.
> ...


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## SteveG (Feb 22, 2010)

ScottHightower said:


> I like your idea of an elevated chicken coop with an easy clean out.
> 
> I found quite a variety of plans to choose from at this site:
> http://handymanplanstore.com/chicken-coop-plans/
> ...



I'm a survivalist by heart first getting chickens in 1999 in case the fears of Y2K came to pass so have many years of raising them from chicks and have always elevated the nests 12-18" off the floor and giving them plenty of privacy by building the boxes flush with the inside with the main box in a shed behind the coop. I have not heard of the 'lowest point' but will certainly research it. My chicken bible is "A Guide to Raising Chickens" by Gail Damerow. She suggests privacy and nesting boxes 18-20" off the floor. That's the way I first built the coop raising several flocks since '99. Thanks for the input. How long have you been raising chickens and what breed to you favor?


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## mtngun (Feb 22, 2010)

BobL said:


> I just had a look at the Granberg site and I may be getting this wrong but it looks like the mini literally sits on the top of a guide board on one side and has to continually be pushed up against the side of the guide board. IMHO this is a daft design - why don't they make it so that it goes right across and grabs the other side of the guide board like the Acutech or beam machine?


Yes and no.

The mini-mill is sold with 12 feet of aluminum angle. You snap a chalk line on your guide board and then screw the angle face down along the chalk line like this ^ . The mini mill is guided only by the one ^ . There is also a "foot" that slides along the board like the outrigger on a hawaian canoe and serves the same purpose as an outrigger -- it keeps it from tipping....... sorta, kinda, sometimes. 

The advantage is that the guide board does not need to be perfectly straight or uniform, since the mill is guided by the ^ and not the board.

It is kiss simple and it works better than it looks.

The bad thing is that it is very tippy, since the mill is top heavy. You have to constantly apply downward pressure to keep it from tipping.


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## BobL (Feb 23, 2010)

mtngun said:


> Yes and no.
> 
> The mini-mill is sold with 12 feet of aluminum angle. You snap a chalk line on your guide board and then screw the angle face down along the chalk line like this ^ . The mini mill is guided only by the one ^ . There is also a "foot" that slides along the board like the outrigger on a hawaian canoe and serves the same purpose as an outrigger -- it keeps it from tipping....... sorta, kinda, sometimes.
> 
> ...



I'm glad it works better than it looks because it looks pretty dodgy to me. The constant pressure need to prevent tipping sounds like way too much work. The other thing I don't like about those 'bolt to the bar' type mills is one forgotten nut and, " . . yer chain is toast"


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## SilverBox (Feb 23, 2010)

SteveG said:


> My plan is to build a small shed/chicken coop combo using the cedar as siding (1/2 to 3/4) and the hardwood for 2 x material. I'd like to build a post and beam type structure elevated on piers so as to easily remove the chicken litter. It's a real PITA now to shovel out their coop by hand a couple times a year and I'd like to keep it dryer for them after a downpour.
> 
> The guy that does the milling for me charges .35 BDF and is close by. I'll need to find some covered area to stack the lumber if I get it milled now. My garage is the only place I have big enough that is covered that I can get 10-15' lumber. Once my brother-in-law moves here and gets his stuff out I'll have plenty of room to stack it.




I wouldn't bother to dry it. If your going to cut it into 2x's and use it for framing. Wet wood is fine for framing (IMO its better), it won't shrink lengthwise, and very minimally radially (~5% max). All stick frame houses are typically framed with wet wood. In these parts its doug fir 2x's.


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## Kicker_92 (Feb 23, 2010)

BobL said:


> I'm glad it works better than it looks because it looks pretty dodgy to me. The constant pressure need to prevent tipping sounds like way too much work. The other thing I don't like about those 'bolt to the bar' type mills is one forgotten nut and, " . . yer chain is toast"



Bob, It actually works quite well, just has a learning curve at the start. Once you get used to how much to feed the saw and where to put your hands, you can basically just stands there and lean on it.

Thick cuts are actually easier than thin ones, with more of the bar buried it will wander less. Big differant between 30° and 10° grinds with the mini-mill, the lower angle is much smoother running in the cut and easier to control.

I just got some extra rails and now have a 16ft guide board. Very handy for cutting longer pieces. 

When you make your guide board, mount the track a little ways in from the edge. The first time you run through the board it will trim the edge parallel to the track. This creates a zero clearance edge that will prevent tearout.


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## BobL (Feb 23, 2010)

Kicker_92 said:


> Bob, It actually works quite well, just has a learning curve at the start. Once you get used to how much to feed the saw and where to put your hands, you can basically just stands there and lean on it.



Thanks Kicker.


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## ticat928 (Feb 23, 2010)

OhioGregg said:


> Looking Good SteveG,
> 
> I don't have a mini-mill, but got to see one of the members here Stipes, run his at a GTG last fall. It work splendidly well! I think he added a plexiglass sheild to his for a little better hand protection. Your lower hand does run close to the chain!
> He uses a J-Red 2186 on his, and runs great! Hopefully he will see this thread, he can give ya lots of help or advice with Mini-Mill. Hes a great fella.
> ...



The shield is standard in the kit.

I just got one, I will ignore the instructions and rotate the saw 180-degrees that way saw dust hits the ground instead of getting thrown in the air.

I will run the saw as close to the wood as possible thus not having exposed chain near my hand

let you know how it turns out


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## BobL (Feb 23, 2010)

ticat928 said:


> I just got one, I will ignore the instructions and rotate the saw 180-degrees that way saw dust hits the ground instead of getting thrown in the air.



Be careful, it doesn't sound like the mill can cope with this because the miil just sits on the guide board and is not held down in any way. I think you will find the saw/mill will want to jump up off the guide board.


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## ticat928 (Feb 23, 2010)

BobL said:


> Be careful, it doesn't sound like the mill can cope with this because the miil just sits on the guide board and is not held down in any way. I think you will find the saw/mill will want to jump up off the guide board.




That is good responsible advice, I do not recommend anyone follow my lead, this is an experiment on my part.

I have several dozen of aluminum extrusions to choose from at work that will provide positive engagement up/down and side to side.

I will also start off with a smaller saw like the Echo CS600


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## mtngun (Feb 24, 2010)

I tried every mounting position possible (the instructions are not terribly clear, besides, who reads instructions ? ) and it worked best as shown in the picture, with the chain brake facing the pexiglass shield. 

The saw is cutting on the bottom of the bar like it is supposed to, and the cut pulls the saw against the guide board. Sawdust is ejected on the side opposite of the operator (as long as there is no wind to blow the dust back in your face ). 

It is tempting to mount it so that the saw cuts with the top of the bar, ejecting sawdust toward the ground instead of up in the air. However, cutting forces push the saw away from the guide board and you have to push back extra hard to maintain control. It can be done, but it's tiring and the cut is not as straight.


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## ticat928 (Feb 24, 2010)

mtngun said:


> I tried every mounting position possible (the instructions are not terribly clear, besides, who reads instructions ? ) and it worked best as shown in the picture, with the chain brake facing the pexiglass shield.
> 
> The saw is cutting on the bottom of the bar like it is supposed to, and the cut pulls the saw against the guide board. Sawdust is ejected on the side opposite of the operator (as long as there is no wind to blow the dust back in your face ).
> 
> It is tempting to mount it so that the saw cuts with the top of the bar, ejecting sawdust toward the ground instead of up in the air. However, cutting forces push the saw away from the guide board and you have to push back extra hard to maintain control. It can be done, but it's tiring and the cut is not as straight.



Experience such as your trial set ups is always more valuable than my thought / theory exercise, in the end I may not be able to improve on your final set up (I did not intend to doubt your efforts, however I was born and raised in a society (Germany) that claims no matter what someone has done before you it can always be improved upon).

One of the idea's I have is to use a very aggressive rake in the saw mounting (much more than is shown in the instructions) in order to keep the bar nose off the ground as well as increase directional control, side benefit is that the chain rotation push out force is more in line with the pushing force on the handle (should reduce effort).

The echo 24" bar has a small profile thus allowing a rotation of bar close to 45-degrees (may want to drill a hole in bar to avoid slippage of clamp and add spacers for additional chain clearance)


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## Kicker_92 (Feb 24, 2010)

ticat928 said:


> One of the idea's I have is to use a very aggressive rake in the saw mounting (much more than is shown in the instructions) in order to keep the bar nose off the ground as well as increase directional control, side benefit is that the chain rotation push out force is more in line with the pushing force on the handle (should reduce effort).



I've tried the same as mtngun, and had similar results. The saw wants to jump up, making it hard to keep a level cut. In thin edging pases it might be more workable, but in 10" cut no way.

Keep in mind that as you tilt the bard more, you chains will be more "noodling" than ripping. This make a much rougher cut, although it is a bit faster.


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## ticat928 (Feb 24, 2010)

Kicker_92 said:


> I've tried the same as mtngun, and had similar results. The saw wants to jump up, making it hard to keep a level cut. In thin edging pases it might be more workable, but in 10" cut no way.
> 
> Keep in mind that as you tilt the bard more, you chains will be more "noodling" than ripping. This make a much rougher cut, although it is a bit faster.



Some more good advice based on actual experience, I may just have to stop posting and start doing. 
Good point on the noodling aspect, the 10-degrees off of vertical as shown in instructions may be best to start with.

I was going to try out a different type of rail extrusion (I do not like the safety aspects of v-rail).

What I want to use is a "T" extrusion mounted to mill to ride inside a "T-receptor" extrusion screwed to 2x8 board which would the be clamped to work piece.
If this does not work I will humbly post my failure at innovation


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## SteveG (Feb 24, 2010)

SteveG said:


> following up on my experience thus far.
> .



I have quite a lot of 'slabs' now after milling several oaks, ash and cedar and am wondering before I cut them for firewood is there another market for them? Some of the oak logs have 3-4 inches on the thicker side and guess they could be cut into smaller strips and used for molding. What do you guys do with the left-overs? I was thinking about listing them on Craigslist to see if anyone has a need. Ideas?

I'm learning more and more about using the mill (thanks in part to all your responses and reading other threads). 

√ Wind helps a whole lot 
√ Adjusting the mill to the size of the log
√ Listen to the saw 
√ Keep the log out of the dirt 

Thanks everyone for your suggestions and help.


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## mtngun (Feb 24, 2010)

SteveG said:


> I have quite a lot of 'slabs' now after milling several oaks, ash and cedar and am wondering before I cut them for firewood is there another market for them?


Some people make slab benches.

I have quite a collection of slabs myself and I was thinking to edge them and use them for barn siding, rounded side out.

But mostly slabs make good firewood. 

Small lumber mills routinely sells slabs for firewood, but they fetch a low price.


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