# Building a wood splitter, I need some opinions please



## dlb1999 (Jan 11, 2012)

I am building a wood splitter basically from scratch.
I will be using an 8HP Briggs and Stratton motor with 16 gpm two stage pump. (minimum size engine for this pump)
My splitting wedge will be stationary, welded to the end of the beam.
I am trying to decide what size cylinder to buy. I don't know whether to use a 4" bore, 4 1/2", or 5".
I researched several manufactured log splitters and compared specs. The northern star ones from northern tool use a 5" for 16gpm pump but the
motor they are using is bigger than an 8 horse. I want to have good cycle times and splitting power but I don't want to bog the motor down all of time.
Since I am using the minimum size motor for this pump should I stick to a 4" cylinder??

Also- my I-beam has 3/8" thick flanges and web. The flanges are 6" wide. I forgot to measure the height of the beam but I would guess it is 8 or 10" tall.
Maybe a 4 1/2" or 5" cylinder would be too much for my beam?

I really need some advice from someone who is experienced with designing and building log splitters.

Thanks.


----------



## gpsman007 (Jan 11, 2012)

*When I built mine I went with dalton Hydro*

Hydraulic Supply | Dalton Hydraulics | Tie Rod Cylinders

I built one last winter and found these guys were very helpful and had the stuff I needed and the knowledge to help me set it up with a valve with power beyond so I could run a lift


----------



## Deereman76 (Jan 11, 2012)

Go Here:

Baum Hydraulics Corp :: Spec Calculator

Hydraulic calculator #1 Will Give you Force, Based on Cylinder Measurements and Pressure

Hydraulic calculator #3 Will Give you Cycle times based on Cylinder Measurements and pump Flow. 

I would take a Sheet of Paper, and Calculate the Force and Cycle times for each prospective Cylinder size, then think about which one makes the most sense based on how you would use it! Good Luck!


----------



## triptester (Jan 11, 2012)

For the components you have Iwould go with a 4" bore cylinder. With the fixed wedge you can you can keep it narrow (1" ) which gives the least resistance when splitting and also allows for adding a 4-way.
The slide for the push plate should be 6"long min. or 1" longer than the push plate is high.


----------



## CJ1 (Jan 11, 2012)

Trip has good advise. I make my wedges out of 1/2" plate steel angle them in just a little and use little to no kickers on them, just enough for bracing at the back. A 4" bore cyl at 3000psi = 36000lb I have only had maybe 3 rounds that I had to relocate on my splitter because it would not split and they were huge hard Maple chunks full of knots that we set on the splitter with a front end loader. CJ


----------



## WidowMaker (Jan 11, 2012)

Think if I were doing it again, building or buying it would be a 2 way splitter with lift...


----------



## dlb1999 (Jan 12, 2012)

Thanks, everybody for your advice.
I did not mention that I already have a 3 1/2" bore cylinder that was given to me for free.
I was not going to use it because I thought that it was too small although it will probably work fine for most of wood I'll be splitting.
But I came up with another idea today. I'm going to go ahead and use the 3 1/2" cylinder I have but I'm going to use
quick couplers for the hydraulic connections and I'll have quick-release keepers on the pins. I'm going to buy a 4 1/2" or 5" cylinder
that I can quickly swap with the 3 1/2" one.
All split all of my 'easy' wood with the 3 1/2" and then save my big knotty chunks for last and switch 
to the bigger cylinder. This way, I can take advantage of a fast cycle time when splitting smaller logs.

I hope it works out.


----------



## shelbythedog (Jan 12, 2012)

dlb1999 said:


> Thanks, everybody for your advice.
> I did not mention that I already have a 3 1/2" bore cylinder that was given to me for free.
> I was not going to use it because I thought that it was too small although it will probably work fine for most of wood I'll be splitting.
> But I came up with another idea today. I'm going to go ahead and use the 3 1/2" cylinder I have but I'm going to use
> ...



I like where your head is at regarding cycle times, but I can't see myself swapping cylinders for the big roungs. I would noodle anything the small cylinder couldn't push through long before I was pulling pins and undoing hydraulic couplers. JMHO.


----------



## palmrose2 (Jan 13, 2012)

I've got an 8 horse Tecumseh mated to an 11 gpm two stage pump powering a 4" cylinder. I have the point at which the pump dives into the lower stage screwed down tight so that it rarely goes into the second stage. My bypass valve is adjusted to the max too, and although I have never put a gauge on it, what harm could a little high pressure blast of hydro do to you? (; The engine never skips a beat. This took a little trial and error. 

If I had to do it over again I would probably go with a 13 gpm pump with the 4"cyl. Having an 8hp and 16 gpm pump, I would probably chose the 4.5" cyl. The 11 gpm pump was practically given to me.

3.5" cyl area = 3.14 x (1.75x1.75) = ~9.616" 4" cyl = 3.14 x 4 = 12.56" 4.5" cyl = 3.14 x ~5.06 = ~15.9" 5" cyl = 3.14 x 6.25 = 19.625"

The 5" cyl is twice as slow and twice as strong as the 3.5" cyl.

You probably want to do your calculations based on 2000 psi as opposed to 3000psi, as hoses in the 3000psi range are harder to come by.

I really need to get a gauge on my rig. Especially because I've been known to loan it out.

When alone, I usually run the engine around 2500rpm and it splits plenty fast enough for me to keep up with it. At 3800 rpm I can keep 3 healthy males busy splitting and stacking.

I recently fabbed up a slip on 3 way wedge. My main wedge is at a slight angle, top towards the cyl. I just slap it on when i think the splitter can handle it, which is almost always. It's a poor man's version of this. Homemade 30 ton Log splitter with log lift and adjustable 4-way blade - YouTube This is how to make a bigger cylinder fast.


----------



## mga (Jan 13, 2012)

what size ram is on the cylinder?

anything less than 2" won't last.


----------



## kyle1! (Jan 13, 2012)

He really needs to buy a longer beam and reconsider buying my 4x30x2 Prince cylinder :biggrin::msp_razz:

Brian


----------



## palmrose2 (Jan 13, 2012)

mga said:


> what size ram is on the cylinder?
> 
> anything less than 2" won't last.



I don't know where the mga quote came from, but this is a point worth talking about. IMHO a ram as small as 1.25 " is probably good enough. Mine is 1.5". Obviously clamping or otherwise holding the ram end of the cylinder becomes more important with a smaller ram, but if everything is strapped down so you can't get any side pressure I would think you would be good to go. I would sure hate to bend one.

The bigger the ram, the faster the cylinder will retract because there will be less volume to fill. I would love to have a 3" ram with a 4" cyl. Lightning fast retract times.


----------



## dlb1999 (Jan 13, 2012)

mga said:


> what size ram is on the cylinder?
> 
> anything less than 2" won't last.



It has a 1 3/4" ram. It will be performing a straight push with no side loading.
It should work fine.


----------



## dlb1999 (Jan 13, 2012)

palmrose2 said:


> I don't know where the mga quote came from, but this is a point worth talking about. IMHO a ram as small as 1.25 " is probably good enough. Mine is 1.5". Obviously clamping or otherwise holding the ram end of the cylinder becomes more important with a smaller ram, but if everything is strapped down so you can't get any side pressure I would think you would be good to go. I would sure hate to bend one.
> 
> The bigger the ram, the faster the cylinder will retract because there will be less volume to fill. I would love to have a 3" ram with a 4" cyl. Lightning fast retract times.



My push/slide is made of 1" thick plate with two 1" thick gussets. I used 3/4" thick plates to wrap under the beam. There is no more than 1/8" of clearance between any part of my slide to my beam. It is not going to move around enough to bend the rod, I don't think. I won't be exceeding the hydraulic limits of the cylinder so that should not be a problem either. 

When I was asking about cylinder size earlier, I had already done all of the math concerning flow, cylinder cycle time, etc...
I just needed some "real world" opinions from people who build and use splitters. Thanks to everyone who responded.
I'll post some pics when I get it assembled in a few weeks.


----------



## dlb1999 (Jan 14, 2012)

One more question.
What are your opinions about how close the pusher needs to come to the wedge when the cylinder reaches full stroke?
Nearly touching? Or will an inch or two or three suffice?


----------



## Steve NW WI (Jan 14, 2012)

Here's how mine is built, the plates on the sides go past the end of the ram just a 1/2" or so. It helps a lot when splitting really stringy stuff. Also, the gap between the two side plates is a good place to put those pieces that invariably get cut at an angle so they don't slide off.


----------



## dustytools (Jan 14, 2012)

Steve NW WI said:


> Here's how mine is built, the plates on the sides go past the end of the ram just a 1/2" or so. It helps a lot when splitting really stringy stuff. Also, the gap between the two side plates is a good place to put those pieces that invariably get cut at an angle so they don't slide off.



I like this!! I think that I will modify my push plate.


----------



## dlb1999 (Jan 14, 2012)

Steve NW WI said:


> Here's how mine is built, the plates on the sides go past the end of the ram just a 1/2" or so. It helps a lot when splitting really stringy stuff. Also, the gap between the two side plates is a good place to put those pieces that invariably get cut at an angle so they don't slide off.



That's a cool design. I'll consider it.
If I don't do it that way, I'll make sure the pusher ends up very close to the wedge without touching it.


----------



## Boogieman142 (Jan 14, 2012)

I'd go with a 4" prince cylinder and definately wouldn't be swapping cylinders, that would get old fast. I'd put the money into a good sized W-beam first. my pusher comes 1/4" from the wedge on the one I built. The engine has little to do with the power as long as it can spin the pump. Its all the bore of the cylinder and the operating pressure. There are several of us that have built splitters here so ask away. P.S. I ordered most of my hydraulic stuff from Surplus Center - Hydraulics, Engines, Electrical and More


----------



## indiansprings (Jan 14, 2012)

I'd put a 4.5" x 24" on it and be done. Have two splitters, one is similar to your set up, the 16gpm does a great job with the 4.5x24, plenty fast, only retract to the length of wood we are splitting anyway, so full ram cycle times seldom apply. We've not had a piece yet we haven't split yet. When building it make sure you put a big enough hydro tank to keep your hydro oil temps reasonable.


----------



## loadthestove (Jan 14, 2012)

dlb1999 said:


> One more question.
> What are your opinions about how close the pusher needs to come to the wedge when the cylinder reaches full stroke?
> Nearly touching? Or will an inch or two or three suffice?



I left one inch on mine.This way i cant mess up and jam my wedge into my push plate.


----------



## Jakers (Jan 14, 2012)

Im really a big fan of the 5" cyl myself. im running a 5x36 rite now. the only reason for the 36" length was my dad built the splitter to use a 6x48" cyl so without relocating the tank and having alot of wasted beam i went for the 36. im also running it off of a pto pump putting out 21gpm so cycle times are ok and power is excellent. never stalled it yet. altho my 21gpm pump turned my log lift into a log tosser now :bang: oh well. just gotta feather the valve a bit more. ill put a flow control on it someday. As for the wedge, im running a 1"x18" tall fixed wedge. the extra height comes in really handy for them big stringy pieces. they just cut instead of popping up over the cutting edge. if you do put something on the pusher plate to make it like the picture shown earlier, DO NOT use angle iron in a verticle way... it makes a pinch point with the cutter at the end of the stroke. then ya toss a buddy on the controls and somebody gets a near miss when the wood lets go and flies 50ft. take a guess how i learned that one


----------



## dlb1999 (Jan 14, 2012)

Boogieman142 said:


> I'd go with a 4" prince cylinder and definately wouldn't be swapping cylinders, that would get old fast. I'd put the money into a good sized W-beam first. my pusher comes 1/4" from the wedge on the one I built. The engine has little to do with the power as long as it can spin the pump. Its all the bore of the cylinder and the operating pressure. There are several of us that have built splitters here so ask away. P.S. I ordered most of my hydraulic stuff from Surplus Center - Hydraulics, Engines, Electrical and More



Thanks, boogieman. I'm still have time and room to play with ideas. 
Like I said, I got the 3 1/2" cylinder for the right price (free) so I'm going to use that one at least for a while until I get a bigger one.
I ordered my pump mount foot from surplus center. I just got their printed catalog yesterday and my mouth is still watering.....


----------



## Farm Boy (Jan 14, 2012)

Should anyone need it...the following formula can be used to determine how much HP is being used to run your splitter.

HP = (PSI x Flow in gpm) / 1500

since no pump is 100% volumetric efficient, 1500 is used

Regarding hose: 3000 psi hose is very common today in industrial plants. Ask for a hose supplier for SAE 100R17 hose, it is rated at 3000 psi in all sizes up to 1 inch id, and has twice the bend radius (more flexible) as the two wire (100R2) hose found in ag supply stores.


----------



## mga (Jan 15, 2012)

Steve NW WI said:


> Here's how mine is built, the plates on the sides go past the end of the ram just a 1/2" or so. It helps a lot when splitting really stringy stuff. Also, the gap between the two side plates is a good place to put those pieces that invariably get cut at an angle so they don't slide off.



damn.....the most obvious are often over looked as the best ideas!

excellent...thanks for sharing!


----------



## Steve NW WI (Jan 15, 2012)

Farm Boy said:


> Regarding hose: 3000 psi hose is very common today in industrial plants. Ask for a hose supplier for SAE 100R17 hose, it is rated at 3000 psi in all sizes up to 1 inch id, and has twice the bend radius (more flexible) as the two wire (100R2) hose found in ag supply stores.



Picked up a hose for the loader tractor at Mills Fleet Farm yesterday, 1/2" x 84" 4000PSI, made in USA, was around $20. I haven't seen 2000-2500 PSI rated hoses in a long time, but I get all my hydraulic stuff at FF.


----------



## firewood guy (Jan 15, 2012)

You are on the right track designing the splitter w/ a push-block assy on the ram and the wedge at the end of the beam. If it's a towable unit, put the wedge on the opposite end of the truck so you don't have a pile by the tailgate. It's amazing to me how many com'l units have this detail backwards. I'm gathering parts for the next project which will be an animal..8" bore by 27" stroke cyl, 8-way wedge (adjustable ht) 8x12 H-beam w/ 2" x12" mill plate on top for a wear plate. Looking at a 60 gpm pump behind a 45 horse Kubota dsl. Hard to find valves that will flow that high though. Just remember that a small cyl will cycle faster and you are really going to strain that 8 horse even w/ a 16 gpm pump. Assuming you will crank the opp press to safe maximum (3000 psi), and calculating the 2nd stage gpm of a 16 gpm Haldex pump, use the following math..4 gpm x 3000 psi /1714 x .85 ( avg pump effiency) = 5.95 hp. thats 75 % of the rated max HP of that engine, and that is usually rated @ 3600 rpm. If you want something better than the avg log splitter out there, use a 14 hp eng w/ a 22 gpm pump, 3/4 " working ports and hoses, and a 5"-6" cyl. However, the beam you have will probably not take the forces unless you weld a BIG wear plate on top. Also, using either a push-block or sliding wedge design, make the "footprint" of the part that slides up & down the beam about 2x as long as the commercial (lol) units out there. This will tansfer the loads that cause beam problems over a larger area while dissipating said loads due to leverage advantages. Also remember that the advertised tonnage of log splitters on the market is total BS and the cycle times are for an unloaded pump both extend and retract. Hope this helps.


----------



## Steve NW WI (Jan 16, 2012)

firewood guy said:


> If it's a towable unit, put the wedge on the opposite end of the truck so you don't have a pile by the tailgate. It's amazing to me how many com'l units have this detail backwards.



Amen brother! If you wanna fill a truck off the splitter, back the truck up to it. I can't find a cheap splitter with wedge on beam at the back of the machine. Have to build it myself I guess. I already have the big dog splitter, I need a small fast one. If I build it, it's gonna be 4" cylinder with 3/4" ports and valve, 22gpm on a 12 hp motor.


----------



## firewood guy (Jan 16, 2012)

Steve NW WI said:


> Amen brother! If you wanna fill a truck off the splitter, back the truck up to it. I can't find a cheap splitter with wedge on beam at the back of the machine. Have to build it myself I guess. I already have the big dog splitter, I need a small fast one. If I build it, it's gonna be 4" cylinder with 3/4" ports and valve, 22gpm on a 12 hp motor.



That'll be a two-man splitter! One to load the logs on the rail and the other just pushing the lever! Didn't do the math, but it will blaze espec. if you have a big ram diameter to increase the retract time. Have fun!


----------



## Boogieman142 (Jan 16, 2012)

Steve NW WI said:


> Amen brother! If you wanna fill a truck off the splitter, back the truck up to it. I can't find a cheap splitter with wedge on beam at the back of the machine. Have to build it myself I guess. I already have the big dog splitter, I need a small fast one. If I build it, it's gonna be 4" cylinder with 3/4" ports and valve, 22gpm on a 12 hp motor.



Thata exactly how I built mine, with the wedge in the back so i can back up to a pile and the truck won't be in my way to work and neither will the hitch.


----------



## ezs (Jan 16, 2012)

dlb1999 said:


> Thanks, everybody for your advice.
> I did not mention that I already have a 3 1/2" bore cylinder that was given to me for free.
> I was not going to use it because I thought that it was too small although it will probably work fine for most of wood I'll be splitting.
> But I came up with another idea today. I'm going to go ahead and use the 3 1/2" cylinder I have but I'm going to use
> ...





I have a 3 1/2 X 24 6.5 hp and my machine splits anything.


----------



## radroy92 (Jan 17, 2012)

*A Good Start*

Hi, I think you have a good start. I recently finished a splitter with a 8 hp engine 16 gpm pump combo and 4" cyl. and I'm very happy with the power and speed. Switching cylinders back and forth doesn't sound very efficient. Also speed is nice but you have to consider safety too. You really don't want a super fast cycle time if you like your fingers. I saw the idea for the plate with spacers on it forming a gap so the wedge can extend beyond the working surface of the plate. Good idea but one thing I would like to mention is the how rapidly the wedge widens. Wedge designs that have long sections of thin plate before the spreaders waste time. A wedge like this splits the wood open only a small amount for several inches of travel. The idea is to split the wood open so a short initial length of thin wedge is good to open the grain but then it should widen rapidly to open the crack. Also a wedge should not have a razor sharp edge. Getting a good cut on your hand is one good reason not to have an edge like this but the primary reason is you want to split the wood not cut it. A sharp knife-like edge will also more likely become stuck in a tough log. A more blunt multi-angle edge will not only be a more efficient design as well as be less likely to get stuck in a tough grain section. And since the edge is less fine it will not chip easily and need less re-grinding to maintain it's shape. Lastly don't mount the plate so the wedge comes very close to it. Have the wedge stop 1.5" from the plate. This is another finger saver. And if you have a correctly designed wedge the log will be in two pieces before the wedge gets this close to the plate. 

See my splitter build here http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/158031.htm

Happy building!!

Roy


----------



## G6YPK (Feb 18, 2012)

*Home brew spliiter too small?*

View attachment 224589
View attachment 224590
View attachment 224589
View attachment 224590


The rams are 2.5 inch X 24 inch stroke. Cannot recall the pump single or two stage, but engine is a 5.5 HP Honda and runs well without laboring in any way when pushing a big log. However, I feel the ram is not powerful enough, and feel I could use perhaps a 3, 4 or five inch ram to give an extra push. Existing ram is 3000lb Prince 3000psi and the hoses are 4000psi with 4000psi showing on the gauge when trying to push a hard, knotty log.
Any advice would be most welcome.

Name is tony and the email address is [email protected]


----------



## triptester (Feb 18, 2012)

Attached is a calculator for finding hydraulic tonnage.

Hydraulic Cylinder Calculator


----------



## VW Splitter (Feb 18, 2012)

My splitter has 1" between the push plate and the wedge. Works great. The log will split by the time you that close.


----------



## dlb1999 (Feb 18, 2012)

*still making progress*

I'd like to thank everyone again for posting their comments.
I'm still working on it every day. The engine and pump mount is done. The tank and valve is mounted and everything is plumbed.
I'm working on the main beam and log lift right now and I hope to have it all done in a few weeks. I'll post some pics soon if I get time but I'll definitely get
some pics posted when it is completed.


----------



## dlb1999 (Feb 19, 2012)

G6YPK said:


> View attachment 224589
> View attachment 224590
> View attachment 224589
> View attachment 224590
> ...



Your pump looks like a two stage but it is difficult to tell in your pics. I have a 3 1/2" ram which came off of another log splitter.
I've been told both on this forum and from friends that a 3 1/2" or 4" is all you need and anything bigger is overkill for most splitting.
If you have a good wedge and pusher design, this will make up for a smaller cylinder. 4000 psi is more than most splitters are set up for 
so it sounds like you have plenty of pressure. If your cylinder cycle times are acceptable now, I'm sure you know that they will decrease a bit
when you go to a bigger cylinder. That could mean a pump upgrade but you only have a 5.5 hp so that might limit you a bit.
Page 33 in the surplus center catalog has some pump specs/hp guidelines.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/\CAT284\Catalog284.pdf


----------



## G6YPK (Feb 19, 2012)

*Pump size and picture*



dlb1999 said:


> Your pump looks like a two stage but it is difficult to tell in your pics. I have a 3 1/2" ram which came off of another log splitter.
> I've been told both on this forum and from friends that a 3 1/2" or 4" is all you need and anything bigger is overkill for most splitting.
> If you have a good wedge and pusher design, this will make up for a smaller cylinder. 4000 psi is more than most splitters are set up for
> so it sounds like you have plenty of pressure. If your cylinder cycle times are acceptable now, I'm sure you know that they will decrease a bit
> ...



*Thank you for the reply to my question. I have taken some more pictures just a few minutes ago and will upload them here. I made a gross error in the engine size. The engine is a Honda 4 HP. Not the 5.5 HP as originally stated. I am planning to replace this engine with a Tecumseh 9 HP which came off of a large tiller. As you can see, I have added some more pictures and you can judge from these what I have to play with. I am not sure if the coupler will
fit the Tecumseh engine, but if I don't try I will never know, eh.
Your thoughts would be very welcome.
Tony*


----------



## dlb1999 (Feb 20, 2012)

G6YPK said:


> *Thank you for the reply to my question. I have taken some more pictures just a few minutes ago and will upload them here. I made a gross error in the engine size. The engine is a Honda 4 HP. Not the 5.5 HP as originally stated. I am planning to replace this engine with a Tecumseh 9 HP which came off of a large tiller. As you can see, I have added some more pictures and you can judge from these what I have to play with. I am not sure if the coupler will
> fit the Tecumseh engine, but if I don't try I will never know, eh.
> Your thoughts would be very welcome.
> Tony*



It sure looks like a two stage pump to me. Wow, are those plain sch. 40 black pipe fittings on your pressure side?
Normally, those are only used on the suction side because of their limited pressure handling capability. You could have a safety issue there.
I must confess, I've used them before but I normally try to find the high-pressure steel fittings when possible. They cost quite a bit more, but they give 
you piece of mind that nothing will blow out.

Upgrading to to the 9hp engine sounds like a great idea. Like you said, it could require some modification based on the mounting base to center of shaft height and shaft size. Good luck.

BTW, I've been using Surplus Center for most of my parts/hydraulic fittings. Their high pressure steel fittings are half the price of Parker or local stores.


----------



## G6YPK (Feb 20, 2012)

*Splitter this and that*



dlb1999 said:


> It sure looks like a two stage pump to me. Wow, are those plain sch. 40 black pipe fittings on your pressure side?
> Normally, those are only used on the suction side because of their limited pressure handling capability. You could have a safety issue there.
> I must confess, I've used them before but I normally try to find the high-pressure steel fittings when possible. They cost quite a bit more, but they give
> you piece of mind that nothing will blow out.
> ...



I am so happy you caught the coupler safety issue. I had no idea this could happen. My brother in-law put the thing together and delivered it ready to as a birthday present (I am his favorite Arkansas Englishman) :msp_rolleyes: I measured the engine mountings and they are the same, but the shaft height is about 5/8 inch higher, but that is not a problem as I can raise the height of the pump to accommodate the difference.
I hope the shaft size is the same - gulp. I never thought to measure this aspect of the coupling. No matter, I'm sure if there is a problem I can surmount it. Would I be correct in thinking the height pressure pump fittings are all the same size and thread (metric or imperial..HELP!) I have not a clue. Brother-in-law used the parts from his late fathers stock (father in-law was a real mechanical engineer working on the Mississippi tug boats). It was to be a secret present to me, but he died before finishing it, so the finishing was left to brother-in-law, hence the coupling situation you pointed out. Unfortunately, I see no number on the pump, (unless it is below) and would not see any number until the engine was removed. I would appreciate your telling me the difference between the two types of pump (advantages or disadvantages of each type etc). I appreciate your input.
King regards Antony.. [email protected]


----------



## dlb1999 (May 20, 2012)

*Log splitter done, works better than expected*

I completed the splitter a couple of months ago but have now just got around to posting about it. I don't have any good pics yet, the next time I take it out, I'll get some good pics and maybe even a video.
It works better than expected. This is coming from someone who have never been around wood splitting before (other than with a maul!).
I copied several different designs and it also has some of my own ideas and ideas from a friend at work who is very innovative.

My components: -8 hp Briggs and Stratton Engine (New Old Stock from the 80's) It was missing a carb so I got a new one and put it on. It runs great.
- New Dynamic 16 gpm two stage pump. (ebay)
-New Prince hydraulic valve, two spool. Splitter spool is a simple three position with detent for cylinder return. Log lift spool is a 
three postition. Main relief set at 3000 psi. (Surplus Center)
-Force America Hydraulic tank (@25 gal)
- Used 3 1/2" bore by 24" stroke cylinder from a Troy-built log splitter
- 6" wide I-beam, 3/8" thick
- Surplus 18" stroke cylinder for log lift (2" bore, I think)
- Old small trailer frame. Original leaf spring mounted axle failed after first time out. (hub failure) Replaced with a rigid drop axle, cut 
and modified for frame width.
- Used rims from a Jeep, tires from ?
- and various other components

We split logs up to 24" in diameter and it did great. We put two logs 24" diameter and @22" long on the lift and it brought them right up with no problem. When doing small logs, the lift is positioned level with the beam and serves as a table to set logs to be split and slide logs back into the splitter that must be split multiple times. The wedge is made of two pieces of loader bucket cutting edge, welded back to back. The wedge has a small "pre-wedge" that protrudes from it that is made from super-hard wear plate to aid in penetration of tough logs.

Pics to come soon, I hope. It doesn't look like much (did not spend the time to paint the whole thing) but it works great and that's all that counts.


----------



## dlb1999 (Dec 22, 2012)

*finally some pics*

I finally got around to posting some pics. We split about 5 cords of wood this fall and it did great. A mixture of dead elm, black cherry, oak, and hedge. BTW the hedge is burning great in my little Vogelzang Shiloh stove. The little bugger heats our house up to 80 degrees if you don't keep an eye on the damper. This is my first year cutting, splitting, and heating with wood. We have had a blast doing it and my saws ran great. 'Bought a Husqvarna 335xpt on ebay (for de-limbing and small work) and have put more money into it than it is probably worth but now it runs good and I learned my lesson. The lesson is- when somebody says the saw "runs good" they forgot to mention that the chain brake was trashed, carb needed rebuilt, intake tube was torn, and crank seals were bad (crankcase wouldn't a hold a bit of pressure or vaccuum). Anyway, here are my pics:

View attachment 269025
View attachment 269026
View attachment 269027
View attachment 269028
View attachment 269029


two more pics in the next post


----------



## dlb1999 (Dec 22, 2012)

*two more pics*

Two more pics of my homemade splitter.
View attachment 269030
View attachment 269031


The only things I have left to do are: mount spare tire (this is done since I took the pics), install guards around exhaust piping, muffler, and engine/pump shaft, and a few other light mods/improvments. Other than that it is done. My friend told me not to paint it because then someone will steal it !! If you leave it cruddy looking, they'll think it is a piece of junk and leave it.


----------



## radroy92 (Dec 22, 2012)

*Good Splitter*



dlb1999 said:


> Two more pics of my homemade splitter.
> View attachment 269030
> View attachment 269031
> 
> ...



She looks like a beast! I bet quiet too with that auto muffler. I haven't painted mine yet, just primer. Keeps it a few pounds lighter for when you are moving it. ;-)

I know what you mean about being able to heat your home all winter from the work you did with you own two hands. It's a good feeling.

Merry Christmas,

Roy


----------



## dlb1999 (Dec 22, 2012)

radroy92 said:


> She looks like a beast! I bet quiet too with that auto muffler. I haven't painted mine yet, just primer. Keeps it a few pounds lighter for when you are moving it. ;-)
> 
> I know what you mean about being able to heat your home all winter from the work you did with you own two hands. It's a good feeling.
> 
> ...



Thanks Roy. The good feeling continues as I just but a couple big slabs of black cherry in my stove and I'm headed to bed.
Good night and Merry Christmas to you.

Oh I guess the work is never done. I ran across some "under construction" pics of my splitter. See next post.


----------



## dlb1999 (Dec 22, 2012)

*"under construction" pics of splitter*

I found a few pics of my splitter while it was being built:
Here is a front and rear view of my wedge. It is two pieces of old loader bucket cutting edge welded back to back. I added a small, hardened steel protrusion to the edge to aid in penetration. I have no regrets about putting the wedge on the beam instead of on the ram. I like how the split pieces are pushed and come off the end of the beam, instead of dropping back near the cylinder.
View attachment 269152
View attachment 269153


Here is my pusher. Very simple design made of 1" plate. I built a yoke for the cylinder so it mount to the wedge more universally. This was just in case I upgraded cylinders, I could easily mount a cylinder with yoke ends using 1" diameter pins.
View attachment 269154


Here is where my the barrel end of the cylinder mounts to the beam.
View attachment 269155


The beginning of my log lift pivot. 1" cold rolled shaft on pillow block bearings.
View attachment 269156


continued in next post


----------



## dlb1999 (Dec 22, 2012)

*more "under construction" pics*

Valve mounting and some plumbing.
View attachment 269157


Engine/Pump arrangement.
View attachment 269158


Engine/Pump mounting plate isolated with rubber buffers.
View attachment 269159


----------



## radroy92 (Dec 23, 2012)

dlb1999 said:


> I found a few pics of my splitter while it was being built:
> Here is a front and rear view of my wedge. It is two pieces of old loader bucket cutting edge welded back to back. I added a small, hardened steel protrusion to the edge to aid in penetration. I have no regrets about putting the wedge on the beam instead of on the ram. I like how the split pieces are pushed and come off the end of the beam, instead of dropping back near the cylinder.
> View attachment 269152
> View attachment 269153
> ...




You really build stuff right. Nice and heavy too. Good design ideas!

Roy


----------



## radroy92 (Dec 23, 2012)

dlb1999 said:


> Valve mounting and some plumbing.
> View attachment 269157
> 
> 
> ...



Well done on these too. I think you just about have to rubber mount a Briggs engine. I blew up my old 8 hourse and went to a Harbor Freight 13 horse and they run much smoother. The HF engine dropped right in the old mounting holes and the shaft was the same size for the pump and adapter plate holes. Easiest engine swap I ever did.

Have you seen my build? Sorry it's sort of long and a lot of pictures: http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/158031.htm

Roy


----------



## dlb1999 (Dec 23, 2012)

radroy92 said:


> Well done on these too. I think you just about have to rubber mount a Briggs engine. I blew up my old 8 hourse and went to a Harbor Freight 13 horse and they run much smoother. The HF engine dropped right in the old mounting holes and the shaft was the same size for the pump and adapter plate holes. Easiest engine swap I ever did.
> 
> Have you seen my build? Sorry it's sort of long and a lot of pictures: http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/158031.htm
> 
> Roy



I remember looking at your build some months ago and was impressed with your design as well. The forum was such a big help in building my splitter.
Although I have not posted very much until lately, I did a lot of reading and looking at pictures. Thanks to great people like you who have a passion for firewood, everything turned out great.


----------



## mrnecsteve (Dec 24, 2012)

dlb1999 said:


> Thanks, everybody for your advice.
> I did not mention that I already have a 3 1/2" bore cylinder that was given to me for free.
> I was not going to use it because I thought that it was too small although it will probably work fine for most of wood I'll be splitting.
> But I came up with another idea today. I'm going to go ahead and use the 3 1/2" cylinder I have but I'm going to use
> ...



Much of youre design should be based on what kind of wood are you splitting most,vertical or horizontal, and what size and length of logs will 
you be splitting most.
example:
My splitting is mostly vertical because most of what I split is oak from 8 inch up to the occasional 24 inch green and wet log . The logs are simply too heavy to think about lifting and sometimes weigh a couple hundred pounds. All of my wood is rolled around like a barrel onto the splitters heavy backing plate. My actual wedge is shaped steel 3 inches thick by 6 inches,made of shaped 1/2 inch steel and sits on the ram side.This setup is perfect for green oak because typically when I start the stroke ,usually i only need about *8-10 inches *of travel before the split runs the full length of a 24 inch log. As the backing plate sits above ground by a minimum 1 inch, it takes minimum effort to complete the split by hand as the end of the log is overhanging. (When I am operating the splitter I am typically sitting on a log stump or wheeled mechanic stool) I make 4-12 strokes on each log ,rotating as I need it. I am able to chuck the wood into a pile or a trailer without getting up. If i have a helper,the helper will roll the logs into arms reach for me.Because the wedge is three inches wide,it takes full advantage of the two stage pump. Retract speed doesnt matter in my situation whatsover because the ram will auto retract and shutoff before i have the next log in place. For those stringy logs that still stay together, a campers hatchet is kept close by , but out of the way.For the really tough large logs,up around 3 feet, I will bury the wedge until it stops and take a short break.(20ton 4 inch with a 5 hp motor) Give it a little time and the split will slowly spread from one side of the log to the other. I have not encountered a log that I could not split IF i was able to barrel roll it into position.
I can easily do a ten foot log cut into 5 pieces weighing a total of 750-800 pounds in about a half hour IF i dont tire out first.For me moveing the wood around consumes most of the TIME and effort.
You have plans for a two stage pump with a pretty good size motor and pretty good flow. I suspect you will find IF youre wedge is sufficiently wide a 3.5 inch useing a two stage pump will be more than adequate for most softer woods. With a three inch by 6 inch wedge you wont 
need to use long strokes MOST of the time on oak ,poplar,beech,walnut apple and cherry. Maple might be a challenge,depends on the grain.
If youre waiting for the wood to fully cure before splitting its going to be a challenge too. i dont wait for that to happen . I like for the wood to dry as fast as possible and often split where its fallen.
I am contemplating building a splitter that will run off my skid loader . The base and ram will have two 1 inch studs for picking the log up first,
then splitting over top of a trailer.... I am THAT lazy!!!!:msp_rolleyes:


----------



## dlb1999 (Dec 24, 2012)

That's the great thing about building your own splitter. It can be built exactly to fit one's particular needs. As for myself, I have plenty of help. (my wife and 8 kids, 5 of which are old enough to help) Our splitting sessions have always been a whole family event. My wife or myself usually runs the valve while two others stand on each side of the wedge. The person on the log lift side feeds and positions the log and the one on the opposite side catches the properly sized split pieces and hands them to a stacker or loader. My dad, brother, brother-in-law, and father-in-law have helped as well. 
Some people labeled my log lift as "overkill" and said that I should have made a horizontal-vertical design while other praised it. The log lift has proven to be the most useful part of the splitter since it serves a dual purpose. When not lifting logs, I leave it in the horizontal position and it lays perfectly level with my I beam. 4, 5, or 6 small logs can be stacked on it, waiting to be split while not getting in the way of what is being split. We are going to be taking down a big tree after Christmas, I try to post some pics of the splitter in action after that.


----------



## farmboss45 (Dec 24, 2012)

dlb1999 said:


> I am building a wood splitter basically from scratch.
> I will be using an 8HP Briggs and Stratton motor with 16 gpm two stage pump. (minimum size engine for this pump)
> My splitting wedge will be stationary, welded to the end of the beam.
> I am trying to decide what size cylinder to buy. I don't know whether to use a 4" bore, 4 1/2", or 5".
> ...



Make sure you go to the firewood forum and check out the homemade splitter thread, TONS of good ideas, pics and cool stuff. I ordered most of my stuff from surplus center.com, and Bailey's. Think about height of the work station, and anything that helps your back, ei...log lift and splitt table. Good luck on your project, pics, pics, pics.....


----------

