# Burr Oak



## chainsawaddict (May 19, 2008)

I planted 8 burr oaks (bare root) along my driveway this spring. There arent a lot of oaks around here. Green Ash seems to do fairly well in tree belts. The soil is sand/clay, drains pretty well. Anyway, I was wondering what kind of fertilizers to use. people have told me that Burrs dont require the nutrients that other oaks require and are more tolerant to a wider variety of soils/climates. I hope they go, I really want them branching out over my driveway in about 20-30 years.

I have a silver maple that seems to really struggle with the soil here.

Hope that info helps, any input would be appreciated.


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## kyle1! (May 19, 2008)

*soil sample*

CS, I have never added fertilizer to trees that I have planted but IA soils are really good. I would take some soil samples from the planting area and send them to U of NE extension for analysis. That would tell you what nutrients to apply.

The burr oak is a tough tree and I think it will do well for you. Silver maples grow like weeds here because they like a moist,swampy type of soil. 

Brian


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## S Mc (May 19, 2008)

CS, I agree with Brian in that don't rush to fertilize. We all have a tendency to want to fix something quickly, even if it isn't broken. It certainly would be a good idea to get a soil sample to see what might be lacking and then go from there. However, we always recommend the best things you can do for a new transplant are to: 1) make sure it wasn't planted too deep, 2) mulch - provide a mulch ring out to (at least) the drip line and 3) maintain adequate irrigation. These are all very important components for the survival and development of your new trees. 

Personally, I love Bur Oaks. They are also very tolerant of a variety of soils including sandy/clay (as Brian also mentioned)

It is interesting that your silver maple is not doing well (check the above 3 items). Is it planted too deep? Is it getting enough water? Other things could be going on there as well.

A note on clay soils. It is even more important to plant "high" on clay than on other soils. 

A note on adequate irrigation. An article we read recently pointed out that watering consistantly for 24 weeks after planting produced roots significantly greater than stopping the water after 5 weeks. This advantage lasted the life time of the tree. Unfortunately, I cannot quickly find the article for specifics; but it definitely pointed out the drastic difference in maintaining proper care for the lifetime health and benefit of the tree. 

Sylvia


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## chainsawaddict (May 20, 2008)

Thanks for all the advice guys, Ive kind of had "trial by fire" this spring. I have planted about 130 bare root seedlings around my yard and I really want them to do well, so ive been asking a lot of questions on here. Im hoping for at least an 80% survival rate, but a spring ice storm was kind of hard on a few cedars.


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## Mr. Plisken (May 20, 2008)

Why not broadcast some alfalfa or corn meal? Feed the soil and fertilize the slower, more natural, way.


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## kyle1! (May 20, 2008)

CS, I wouldn't worry about the soil so much. Those trees need a constant supply of water. Mulching helps conserve water, keeps the the roots cooler and helps with the soil profile when it breaks down. I ran soaker hoses where I could to water mine.

Another thing that I think is very important is weed control. If you don't have a 2 to 3 ft buffer around the tree those weeds/grasses are out competing the tree for water and nutrients. Water and weed control should get you a >80% success rate unless the rabbits/deer are hungry  

Brian


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