# Large Rounds / Too Heavy to move



## upsnake (Jan 21, 2013)

OK so i hope the is not too stupid of a question.

I have a friend that owns a tree service, and drops off rounds for me, which is great, the only down side is some of them are pretty large.

I know I can noodle them down, but I just seem to suck at that, and it take forever. My splitter will go vertical so anything that i can physically move i have been rolling / pushing / dragging to the splitter and getting it small enough to lift.

Ideal i would just lift the logs with the front loader of my tractor, and set them down on the splitter, only one problem, I don't have a tractor, nor the money to get one.

My method had been working kinda ok, until the other day when i heard a pop in my back, and haven't been able to bend over for the last couple days.  It is getting better but I don't really want to do that again.

So anyway I was trying to come up with a way to move the wood from the pile to the foot of the splitter.

I have a Garden tractor that has a 2 Inch ball on the drawbar, so i was thinking I could get a 2k winch, and an adapter that hooks to the ball. Then get a tree strap, just wrap the strap around the round and pull it to the splitter.

Do you think that would work or as anybody do something similar?

I am new to the world of winches so just trying to do some research before spending money. Haha 

Thanks
Jay 


Superwinch 1220210 LT2000 Utility Winch : Amazon.com : Automotive

Superwinch 2060 Portable Ball Hitch Mount : Amazon.com : Automotive

ProMark Tree Strap ATV Winch Recovery Kit. Includes Two Tree Straps and Two D Shackles.


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## tld400 (Jan 21, 2013)

JUst hand split them with wedge and sledge,mauls,fiskars axe and chop from outside in.


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## stihly dan (Jan 21, 2013)

Or use a cant hook--peavey


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## Jules083 (Jan 21, 2013)

Can you stand the splitter up while it's hooked to the lawnmower, then back the splitter to the round? At least if you can back into it and bust it in half you'll have a good start on it.


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## Woody912 (Jan 21, 2013)

get on your knees and roll the, save the back!


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## upsnake (Jan 21, 2013)

Stihly - Does the cant hook make moving them that much easier?

Right now the really big stuff (or really big to me at least), a 36 inch round piece of oak, for example i still noodle in half at least.

Woody - Ya that is what i was doing the other day where I hurt my back. Now in fairness to my back, I have so far done over 20 cord and this is the first time I have hurt it.

I was just thinking if i could just quickly drag the round right up to the foot plate of the splitter then I could just muscle it the few inches from there.

Jules - I could prob get the splitter a bit closer, (really it is not that far to begin with 15 feet or so). I was just trying to think of how to work smart rather than harder.


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## howellhandmade (Jan 21, 2013)

I second the maul and sledge recommendation. On really big ones, I'll use the saw to mill a kerf across the end where I want to split it. Just go down a couple of inches, makes it easier to start the wedge and it starts exerting splitting force right away. If I know I'm going into quarters, I'll cut the end criss-cross before going to the wedge.


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## dingeryote (Jan 21, 2013)

Noodles save backs. 

Easier than dinking with winches.

Just give it some time and you'll get good at noodlin'.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## Chris-PA (Jan 21, 2013)

Quarter it by hand in-place. I never hurt myself splitting by hand, only moving the big rounds - so I don't move them any more.


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## Dusty Rhodes (Jan 21, 2013)

There may be a better way, but so far if its too big to get it onto the vertical splitter I get out the wedges and sledge and get them down to size. I cut my firewood to 24" length so the big diameter rounds are beasts. With a couple or three good wedges and good placement with them you should be able to get them down to sizes that you can manage without throwing out your back. Have them close to the splitter and once you have them half mooned or quartered I do not have a problem getting them onto the base of the splitter in the vertical mode. Use of a cant hook or small digging bar works for flopping them around. Use the principal of leverage and do not try to manhandle large rounds. I usually study the round a little to take avantage of the wood grain for setting the wedges. You can also work the outside of the rounds with the wedges if splitting the round in half is not practical. Would be great to have all the equipment to handle the task but most of us do not have the coin to buy that kind of gear. Take care of your back or you wont be handling any wood of any size. Don't get in a hurry and try to enjoy it. The big rounds yield a lot of wood so you'll be rewarded in the long run.


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## sgt7546 (Jan 21, 2013)

I lay a 2x8 on the ground and just slide the rounds over to the splitter. Using the 2x8 makes the round at the proper level of the bottom plate of the splitter anyways. Sliding is a heck of a lot easier than lifting/rolling to me.


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## upsnake (Jan 21, 2013)

Thanks guys.

Sounds like winches are out.  Hahah I may get one eventually to help with fallen trees around for the forest clean up project of the future, but for now it looks like maybe the cant hook would be the best way to go to help get them to the splitter.

I can always try hand splitting again. The last time i attempted to break apart some large rounds that way i got my wedge stuck, then wore a bunch of skin off my hands through the gloves swings at it trying to unstick my wedge.  

I am still very much and armature at processing wood, but trying to get better, everybody here is just a great resource. 

If you always do what you always did, you'll always get what you always got.


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## howellhandmade (Jan 21, 2013)

upsnake said:


> Thanks guys.
> 
> Sounds like winches are out.  Hahah I may get one eventually to help with fallen trees around for the forest clean up project of the future, but for now it looks like maybe the cant hook would be the best way to go to help get them to the splitter.
> 
> ...



One wedge is asking for it. : ) You need at least two. If possible I'd rather split than noodle, but you may feel differently and there are some rounds that it's no use trying to split anyway. I've had big maple rounds that were wet and mushy and twisty and would just swallow wedges, and then there are the knots and crotches in any wood.


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## trailmaker (Jan 21, 2013)

howellhandmade said:


> I second the maul and sledge recommendation. On really big ones, I'll use the saw to mill a kerf across the end where I want to split it. Just go down a couple of inches, makes it easier to start the wedge and it starts exerting splitting force right away. If I know I'm going into quarters, I'll cut the end criss-cross before going to the wedge.



I think this is the way to go. Moving heavy stuff around (like big rounds or a splitter) is tough on the back.


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 22, 2013)

upsnake said:


> Stihly - Does the cant hook make moving them that much easier?
> 
> Right now the really big stuff (or really big to me at least), a 36 inch round piece of oak, for example i still noodle in half at least.
> 
> ...



1. Get a "Hookaroon" - They'll have to pry mine out of my cold hands.

2. Drag the rounds over to the splitter with the tractor - may require weights/chains but it will beat fooling around with a winch.

3. Get a "Hookaroon".

4. Get a 'back support belt/brace and wear it whenever you are working the wood. I meant to do it years ago but somehow never did...until last week after straining _my_ back. It does wonders and I'll never work wood again without it.

5. Repeat 1 and 4.

That tool will reduce your bending over by around 90%!

I resisted buying for for near 30 years due to the cost. ONe use and I kicked my rear raw for not having done it 20 years earlier.

As for 'noodling' a sharp chain is an absolute must. If you are have to 'fight' the saw/round stop and either change chains or sharpen the one you have. Trying to noodle with a "not quite sharp chain" is about the most frustrating job I know.

Harry K


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## BrokenToys (Jan 22, 2013)

I use a hand truck to move them around; i have one i picked up at costco that has pneumatic wheels and a ratchet strap the log onto it and move as necessary.
Granted; after that it is maul or wedge&sledge time ... but to move them it's all about the hand truck. I have had some pretty big rounds moved by myself this way [biggest being about 49" across in diameter].


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## bootboy (Jan 22, 2013)

The old fashioned way...


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## mhrischuk (Jan 22, 2013)

I made cross cuts to get the wedges in. Sure made splitting them a heck of a lot easier....


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## mountainmandan (Jan 22, 2013)

Protect your back at all costs. You only get one, and it is a weak spot in your body. If you do hurt your self to the point that you are impinging on the bundle of nerves called the cauda equinia, you can be wearing a diaper the rest of your life. Or you might lose feeling in your crotch, or have painful tingling and numbness in one or both legs. Modern medicine does not have many good options to deal with this either besides steroids, or fusing the lumbar vertebrae. 

You say this will not happen to you, it happens every day. 

Protect your back!

Dan


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## mhrischuk (Jan 22, 2013)

mountainmandan is spot on. My back is messed up. One leg gets all kinds of pain. Been to the doctor, had all of the imaging done. Not much they can do.

Notice I have two tractors, a vertical splitter and a hand truck. I try not to do any heavy lifting at all.


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## bubba3228 (Jan 22, 2013)

BrokenToys said:


> I use a hand truck to move them around; i have one i picked up at costco that has pneumatic wheels and a ratchet strap the log onto it and move as necessary.
> Granted; after that it is maul or wedge&sledge time ... but to move them it's all about the hand truck. I have had some pretty big rounds moved by myself this way [biggest being about 49" across in diameter].



The hand truck has helped me out too, big time. There are also dollies made for moving small trees with the root balls, landscapers use them. I thought they they may work well too, they have big ole pneumatic wheels. Before we had the log lift added to our speedco I would lay an 8' fiberglass ladder with the top wedged into the I beam and roll the big rounds up to the cradle one rung at a time, worked but still a lot of grunting. We found laying the big rounds horizontal on the cradle is somewhat easier to split into the first big quarters. The back is a terrible thing to waste... Anyone ever use a small jack hammer with a wedge bit?


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## loadstarken (Jan 22, 2013)

A tree service dropped off some huge 4-5 foot across round and I used my hand truck to lift an edge and put some small branch rounds under to move them like the Egyptians. Once I had a couple round under them they would just glide over my driveway and even thru the gravel.

My driveway is always open for tree services to drop their unwanted wood! Well except for cottonwood! Hehe


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## beerman6 (Jan 22, 2013)

upsnake said:


> OK so i hope the is not too stupid of a question.
> 
> I have a friend that owns a tree service, and drops off rounds for me, which is great, the only down side is some of them are pretty large.
> 
> ...



I have THEE answer...Have him drop off the big rounds at my place :msp_w00t:


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## jrider (Jan 22, 2013)

If he is any friend of yours, he will understand when you ask him not to drop off those monster logs anymore. He has a tree business, he gets all sizes of wood so you know he his getting rid of the smaller stuff some place else. No real friend would cut you out of the wood totally.


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## mhrischuk (Jan 22, 2013)

Bottom line.... cut them up where they lay. Move them as little as possible until they are cut down to a manageable size where you won't hurt yourself.

This is what I received last year. I dealt with it right where it sat.












Well I did cheat a little..






Noodled some...


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## Hinerman (Jan 22, 2013)

bootboy said:


> The old fashioned way...



From here, I use a wheelbarrow. I would never carry pieces that size more than a few steps, if that. I can load several pieces in a wheelbarrow, make less trips and it saves my back, knees, ankles, etc. I don't carry heavy pieces more than a couple of steps. My wheelbarrow is my best friend when it comes to moving wood. I roll the big rounds when I can. If a round is too big for me to stand up on its side, then I noodle or split as needed, then use the wheelbarrow to transport.


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## Hinerman (Jan 22, 2013)

1. Get a "Hookaroon" - They'll have to pry mine out of my cold hands.

2. Drag the rounds over to the splitter with the tractor - may require weights/chains but it will beat fooling around with a winch.

3. Get a "Hookaroon".


I don't have a hookaroon. This is the 2nd or 3rd time I have read this recommendation. I will have one ordered before the end of this week. I don't have a tractor or power splitter so I need all the help I can get. Thanks for the post.


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## slowp (Jan 22, 2013)

A swing of the splitting maul is the first choice.

A metal splitting wedge is the second, and another one pounded in if the first won't work.

If the piece is knotty, I bore in with my saw and then put a wedge in. 

If that doesn't work, the chunk gets left behind or used for something else. I do not use a mechanized splitter. 

I mostly cut small stuff for firewood. It makes life much gentler.


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## SkippyKtm (Jan 22, 2013)

mhrischuk said:


> I made cross cuts to get the wedges in. Sure made splitting them a heck of a lot easier....



Nice setup!

The only thing that bugs me is the way that steel wedge on the right is peeling. You need to grind off that metal or shards of it will come off when striking. I had a friend lose an eye because of that. :msp_wink:


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## mhrischuk (Jan 22, 2013)

Yes.... I need to clean it up. I should know better... I'm a toolmaker from way back.


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## SkippyKtm (Jan 22, 2013)

mhrischuk said:


> Yes.... I need to clean it up. I should know better... I'm a toolmaker from way back.



If you have a large mig welder, I weld a bead around the wedge to get rid of the peals. Its faster than grinding, or use cutting torches, I've done that too....


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## Chris-PA (Jan 22, 2013)

mountainmandan said:


> Protect your back at all costs. You only get one, and it is a weak spot in your body. If you do hurt your self to the point that you are impinging on the bundle of nerves called the cauda equinia, you can be wearing a diaper the rest of your life. Or you might lose feeling in your crotch, or have painful tingling and numbness in one or both legs. Modern medicine does not have many good options to deal with this either besides steroids, or fusing the lumbar vertebrae.
> 
> You say this will not happen to you, it happens every day.
> 
> ...


Amen. Hurting my back is really one of my biggest fears living out in the sticks. If I can't do the work I do, we can't stay here, and if my back goes I can't do that work. I still have to take a risk now and then, but I damn well try to minimize it. This is a case of working smarter, not harder. Taking the time to learn how to use a splitting tool, and use it, so you can split those pieces into manageable sizes in-place is just part of what you need to be able to do.


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## hardpan (Jan 22, 2013)

Hinerman said:


> 1. Get a "Hookaroon" - They'll have to pry mine out of my cold hands.
> 
> 2. Drag the rounds over to the splitter with the tractor - may require weights/chains but it will beat fooling around with a winch.
> 
> ...



OK now the 4th time. Get a hookeroon. Turnkey took away my shot at the 3rd time. Cant hook and hand truck always help but the hookeroon has the task of moving a large piece while it is sitting on end like when you want to "slide" it under the splitter wedge or onto the hank truck. Get a bite near the bottom on one side, lift and slide, get a bite near the bottom of the other side, lift and slide, repeat. Keep in mind you're doing this erect like a homosapien, less back strain. Wedges? I like them so much that I have 7. Actually I started with 2 and the need to free the stuck ones added to the collection but I still like swinging a 10 pound sledge at times. This stuff cost money but you only have to talk to a couple people with permanent back damage to see the value.


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## dave_376 (Jan 22, 2013)

I didn't read the whole thread so there may already be a similar idea.
A few years ago I had a bunch of giant boulder to move, I thought about rolling them but then I was worried what would happen if they didn't stop and made it to the hill. I ended up using an old hood to a car I pulled out of a dumpster at the transfer station. I used a chain to hook it up to my riding tractor and slid/dragged the boulder to their new home. I used a pry bar and some logs to lift and roll the rocks on the hood.

Last year I had a bunch of 30" hickory, I don't think that I could have picked one up if I tried. when I had to move them I used the same pry bar to flip them on their side and roll them to the splitter.


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## Evanrude (Jan 22, 2013)

I'd be happy to help you out anytime, Jay. If you've got some large stuff just give me a shout and I'll load up the canthook and my big saws and give you a hand. The 660 is a noodle eating machine! At least let me lend you my canthook so you can try it out. I agree, noodling is the easiest way to get those big rounds to a manageable size. Pushing, pulling, dragging isnt the easy answer here.


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## upsnake (Jan 22, 2013)

Mhrischuk - Dang ok ya if a piece of wood that size every showed up I think i would just quit. haha
I do line the cross cut idea.

Most of the stuff that I get is fine, every once and while there are some big really big (well to me nothing like some of the pics), that i do noodle down.

It is those pieces that are just little too big to comfortably pick up that i mostly have to deal with so maybe a hookaroon or cant hook would give me enough leverage to move them over to the splitter.

I go to the chiropractor on Monday. I am going to give my back a few days, it is still a little tender. I don't think i did anything permanent to it, I think i just tweaked something.

Evan that sounds good, I was looking at them online but it would be nice to try it first.  I will hit you up once my back is feeling better.


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## mhrischuk (Jan 22, 2013)

Take care of that back. They can't do much to fix them.


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## zogger (Jan 22, 2013)

mhrischuk said:


> I made cross cuts to get the wedges in. Sure made splitting them a heck of a lot easier....



Yep! Best way to get wedges started, nice deep tic tac toe kerf cut!


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 22, 2013)

mhrischuk said:


> Yes.... I need to clean it up. I should know better... I'm a toolmaker from way back.



Please clean it up before usign it again! I found the fastest way on one like that is to use my 4" discgrinder and grind with the edge biting ito the mushroom from underneath, doesn't take long. My usual source for them is junk shops but haven't had any luck in years. Seems I have a bad habit of losing hem and I am now down to two.

Torch would probably be faster but I don't have one.

Harry K


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## BrokenToys (Jan 22, 2013)

bubba3228 said:


> The hand truck has helped me out too, big time. There are also dollies made for moving small trees with the root balls, landscapers use them. I thought they they may work well too, they have big ole pneumatic wheels. Before we had the log lift added to our speedco I would lay an 8' fiberglass ladder with the top wedged into the I beam and roll the big rounds up to the cradle one rung at a time, worked but still a lot of grunting. We found laying the big rounds horizontal on the cradle is somewhat easier to split into the first big quarters. The back is a terrible thing to waste... Anyone ever use a small jack hammer with a wedge bit?



One of these days my welding genius little brother will make me one of those big landscaping tree moving dollies; he made something very similar for my uncle to use at his statuary to move his big statues around [6/7' tall seahorses, sailfish, lighthouses, lamp posts] and it works great. Mine is the generic off the shelf moving dolly but if I can get one that has a v shaped bottom instead of a flat plate; ratcheting turnbuckle like the moving dollies i think I would be set.


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## Bushmans (Jan 22, 2013)

While your back heals work on sharpening techniques. Noodling should not be any harder than cutting regular. If your having trouble noodling or think your no good at it than your chain is not sharp enough.
I don't noodle all the way through either. Go about half way and stick a wedge in there and pop it. It's fast and easy. Your 311 with a sharp chain should be fine for big, hard stuff.
Key word for the day......SHARP!


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## Dalmatian90 (Jan 22, 2013)

> I know I can noodle them down, but I just seem to suck at that, and it take forever.



Silly question...since noodling can be slower then bucking, but I wouldn't call it "forever"...

This is how the saw looks noodling:






This is how the saw looks ripping...and that I would call "taking forever":





Bucking makes chips (as long as the chain is sharp!), ripping makes sawdust, noodling makes...noodles. 

I wouldn't rip something with a standard saw & chain more then the shallow cuts some of the other posters made to start wedges.


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## mhrischuk (Jan 22, 2013)

And sometimes you don't have a choice cutting through a "y" with grain going in different directions.


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## trophyhunter (Jan 22, 2013)

dingeryote said:


> Noodles save backs.
> 
> Easier than dinking with winches.
> 
> ...



Does it ever, a 70cc + saw is a blessing to own and WAY more cost effective than back or spinal injuries. Noodling is your friend when it comes to dealing with the bigger stuff. That old saying amonsgt hunter's "bring enough gun", applies to dealing with the big stuff when it's only you and manpower getting the truck or trailer loaded or getting them into the splitter.


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## mhrischuk (Jan 22, 2013)

Here's my tool..


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## upsnake (Jan 22, 2013)

Ok so on the topic of sharp chains.
Right now I have the Stihl file set, does anybody use something like this? If so does it work decent?

Granberg Bar-Mount Chain Saw Sharpener, Model# G-106B | Chain Saw Sharpeners, Maintenance Repair| Northern Tool + Equipment


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## Bushmans (Jan 23, 2013)

upsnake said:


> Ok so on the topic of sharp chains.
> Right now I have the Stihl file set, does anybody use something like this? If so does it work decent?
> 
> Granberg Bar-Mount Chain Saw Sharpener, Model# G-106B | Chain Saw Sharpeners, Maintenance Repair| Northern Tool + Equipment



I use a standard file and plate guide that rests on top of the chain. All movements are guided by hand.
Look for one of those big magnifying glasses on a stand that they use for tying fish flies. It is critical to have the right angles while sharpening. Practice, Practice, Practice.


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## Currently (Jan 23, 2013)

Or get a timberline sharpener. I had three inch plus noodles doing forty inch pine. 

It does a better job than my grinder.


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## motoman3b (Jan 23, 2013)

Heres how I handle big rounds


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## mhrischuk (Jan 23, 2013)

That's a great idea. I use a vertical but still find it sometimes a job getting a big round under it. Love to see a video of it in action.


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## dingeryote (Jan 23, 2013)

upsnake said:


> Ok so on the topic of sharp chains.
> Right now I have the Stihl file set, does anybody use something like this? If so does it work decent?
> 
> Granberg Bar-Mount Chain Saw Sharpener, Model# G-106B | Chain Saw Sharpeners, Maintenance Repair| Northern Tool + Equipment




Got one, tried it, drove me nuts with all the dinking around setting depth, and when changing from left to right.

I went back to the clamp on file guide or Husky roller guide, and the eyeball, for correcting all the field file ugliness.
The Granberg is pretty brilliant for what it is and does, I just lack the appreciation for the fussing required.

If you get down this way, stop in. It's on the floor, next to the busted catch plates off of the Blueberry harvester, in the far corner of the barn shop. 
Take it with ya when ya go.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## Perk (Jan 23, 2013)

*Two round fill up the truck!!*

Here is the 60" DBH White Oak that I'm working on now.
Back at the house I have a 27 HP compact tractor that has a 3pt hitch mounted lifting arm with a log grapple that I use to position the quarters on the vertical log splitter. I use a cordless drill and screw a lag-eye bolt into the quarters, back the pickup to them and then jack them up and into the truck bed with the el-cheapo HF hydraulic jack lift boom mounted on the rear corner.


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## zogger (Jan 23, 2013)

Perk said:


> Here is the 60" DBH White Oak that I'm working on now.
> Back at the house I have a 27 HP compact tractor that has a 3pt hitch mounted lifting arm with a log grapple that I use to position the quarters on the vertical log splitter. I use a cordless drill and screw a lag-eye bolt into the quarters, back the pickup to them and then jack them up and into the truck bed with the el-cheapo HF hydraulic jack lift boom mounted on the rear corner.



Thats some whopper big oak you got right there, and good way to move it!


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## ClimbMIT (Jan 23, 2013)

mhrischuk said:


> I made cross cuts to get the wedges in. Sure made splitting them a heck of a lot easier....



Nice work! is that Hickory?


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## ClimbMIT (Jan 23, 2013)

I Have to admit I noodle and worried I was would get laughed at by the bigger tree companies. I am just starting out 2nd year of having my own business and i look a little like Sanford and Son, with lighter complexion! Lol! It really isn't that bad just a truck, two trailers, saws, and climbing gear. Anyway new here on the firewood forum. Very useful thread! I now know I am smart to noodle  I just didn't know what other guys did.


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## hardpan (Jan 23, 2013)

ClimbMIT said:


> I Have to admit I noodle and worried I was would get laughed at by the bigger tree companies. I am just starting out 2nd year of having my own business and i look a little like Sanford and Son, with lighter complexion! Lol! It really isn't that bad just a truck, two trailers, saws, and climbing gear. Anyway new here on the firewood forum. Very useful thread! I now know I am smart to noodle  I just didn't know what other guys did.



An open minded person can do well here. There is more than one way to skin a cat, as they say. I think the one thing we all have in common is the need to safely turn big wood into small wood. If I was much younger I could easily get deep into the climbing, still have my rappelling gear but that is much easier, never owned an ascender.


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## upsnake (Jan 23, 2013)

I went ahead and ordered a Timberline sharpener, I read sever of the threads here talking about them and it seemed all positive, hopefully that will help with keeping the chain sharp which will then help with noodling.


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 23, 2013)

dingeryote said:


> Got one, tried it, drove me nuts with all the dinking around setting depth, and when changing from left to right.
> What "dinkig around" - change to angles once (it should still be set from last time) and depth stop once maybe 5 seconds total. The file and you KNOW every tooth has the same angles and depth
> 
> I went back to the clamp on file guide or Husky roller guide, and the eyeball, for correcting all the field file ugliness.
> ...




I get it that you don't like a simple tool.

Harry K


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## dingeryote (Jan 24, 2013)

turnkey4099 said:


> I get it that you don't like a simple tool.
> 
> Harry K



On the contrary.
The file alone with a depth guide is a simple tool. That is why it is consistent, and reliable.

The granberg is a Rube Goldbergian contraption in comparison.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## ClimbMIT (Jan 24, 2013)

hardpan said:


> An open minded person can do well here. There is more than one way to skin a cat, as they say. I think the one thing we all have in common is the need to safely turn big wood into small wood. If I was much younger I could easily get deep into the climbing, still have my rappelling gear but that is much easier, never owned an ascender.



Yes there is, I just turned 38 and want to be the best I have ever been for once in my life. I started climbing in 1996 for a Top Rated tree company left there in less than a year started a tree service and didn't have a clue. Now after several jobs in between I am back and determined to succeed with my own business! Thanks for the post.


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 24, 2013)

dingeryote said:


> On the contrary.
> The file alone with a depth guide is a simple tool. That is why it is consistent, and reliable.
> 
> The granberg is a Rube Goldbergian contraption in comparison.
> ...



Corrction The Granberg is a simple tool that results in accurate angles and depth every time. I don't even have one, I have about the same thing from another company.

I get it that you don't like it. That is no reason to make "over the top" objections.

Harry K


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## fields_mj (Jan 24, 2013)

If you have a garden tractor, then either move the splitter to the round or drag the round to the splitter with it. No need for a winch. I use chains myself and drag entire trees up out of the ravine with the truck. Personally, if those were my tools, I would wheel the splitter to the round, then use the tractor to nudge it the rest of the way onto the splitter. 

I don't have a traditional splitter. A few years ago I bought an 064 instead and just noodle the round right where I bucked it at. A hyd splitter might be a little faster but if I take into account all the time that I'm hadling the round, it comes about about the same for me. Plus, the 064 only set me back $375 and I can use it to buck the same big rounds that I need to noodle. 

As far as sharpening chains, I have a granberg style devise, but I got tired of messing with it. I can do it by hand just fine. I use the standard Stihl depth guide that attatches to the file. Slight variations in the tooth angle don't make enough of a difference in performance to worry about. I sharpen my chain every time I stop for fuel. One or two strokes per tooth (so long as I keep it out of the dirt) and it's ready to go. Takes me less than 5 min to do the chain. It takes me that long to try to swap one out, and then I'd still have to sharpen it when I get back home. It also takes me that long to get a Granberg mounted and set up. Not terribile, just more steps than I care to go through. Nothing wrong with the Granberg design, but it is more time consuming than doing it with a file and depth guide. Besides, I like the KISS principal  

That's my 2 bits anyway. 

Mark


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## ClimbMIT (Jan 24, 2013)

I recently purchashed the Granberg file sharpener and it is PITA but it is also a great tool. I am still a litle slow with it but I am sure with time I will get faster. Also I noticed it is very important when sharpening make sure your saw, bar/chain is on a very stable surface with clamps or straps holding your saw steady.


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## hunter h (Jan 24, 2013)

*Large rounds*

Maybe tou could make a boom for the splitter hang your winch on it and not have to use your back at all. Or make one to go on your garden tractor. You could make it so it is on a dolly so all the weight is not on the tractor lift it back up to splitter bust off what you can move. Just a thought.


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 24, 2013)

ClimbMIT said:


> I recently purchashed the Granberg file sharpener and it is PITA but it is also a great tool. I am still a litle slow with it but I am sure with time I will get faster. Also I noticed it is very important when sharpening make sure your saw, bar/chain is on a very stable surface with clamps or straps holding your saw steady.



For sure. Mine gets clamped by the bar in a leg vise I inherited from my old man.

Harry K


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## johncinco (Jan 24, 2013)

Yutes. 


I just let the big ones pile up, then when I have a couple hours worth of work lined up, i hire a couple strong yutes to come lift them around for me. :msp_wink: They need the work out, need some extra money, and think it is awesome to work with a splitter machinery. All kids aren't worthless nowadays. Best $40 I spend in a long time.


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## Bushmans (Jan 24, 2013)

hunter h said:


> Maybe tou could make a boom for the splitter hang your winch on it and not have to use your back at all. Or make one to go on your garden tractor. You could make it so it is on a dolly so all the weight is not on the tractor lift it back up to splitter bust off what you can move. Just a thought.



like my friend does
View attachment 275321


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## zogger (Jan 24, 2013)

johncinco said:


> Yutes.
> 
> 
> I just let the big ones pile up, then when I have a couple hours worth of work lined up, i hire a couple strong yutes to come lift them around for me. :msp_wink: They need the work out, need some extra money, and think it is awesome to work with a splitter machinery. All kids aren't worthless nowadays. Best $40 I spend in a long time.



Yutes!

hehehe


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## mhrischuk (Jan 24, 2013)

I pay my grandkids to load up my staged wood about three times a year. Helps teach them work for money.


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## Sandhill Crane (Jan 25, 2013)

At one time I had a 4x4 short box with a lift gate! Load the truck up and back it up to the horizontal splitter. Picked up the lift gate used, for cheap. Wasn't very pretty but came in handy for years. (and I still have a good back Matched the truck for looks but just used it for wood and plowing.


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## fields_mj (Jan 25, 2013)

Bushmans said:


> like my friend does
> View attachment 275321



Ya know, I really need to do something like that. I've been thinking about it for the last few years. I don't use a hyd splitter, but I cut 3 or 4 years ahead; so I try to cut big knotty stuff that's not going to rot (and that nobody else wants to mess with). Something like that would be very usefull for getting them into the truck. Been kicking it around for the last few years. I"ve got some 2" C channel that's going to have to get put to good use


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## fields_mj (Jan 25, 2013)

ClimbMIT said:


> Also I noticed it is very important when sharpening make sure your saw, bar/chain is on a very stable surface with clamps or straps holding your saw steady.



Very true. I've found that it's absolutely critical to have the bar in some kind of vise for sharpening. We always used a stump vise in the past It's easy enough to stand up a large round and drive the vise into it and use it as a work surface. However, puting the bar in a 6" bench vise is MUCH better yet. A few years ago I built an adapter that I bolted to the inside of my tailgate with self tapping sheet metal screws. 



















The adapter allows me to mount my 6" bench vise to the truck. The vise is mounted to a 8" square x 3/8" thick aluminum plate via some 3/8" flat head bolts that are counter sunk into the bottom of the plate. The plate mounts to the adapter and my work bench (which has a 3/4" steel top  ) via 1/2" bolts. A 1/2" bolt has a 3/4" hex head, and the 19mm end of my scrench fits if VERY well. I also cut a slot in the hex heads so that I can use the screw driver end to put the bolts most of the way in. I've also made an addapter that quickly attatches to my ATV. 











Sorry for getting off the OPs original topic.


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## farmboss45 (Jan 25, 2013)

Hey Jay, if you just noodle part way down, stick a steel wedge in, and smack it with a maul works good. Oak sometimes can be gnarly though and this might not always work, but give it a try. You also could look into putting a log lift, or a hoist on your splitter.


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## upsnake (Jan 25, 2013)

Thanks guys,

I think noodling is going to get some more tries. I ordered the timberland sharpener, so hopefully have a sharper chain. 
At point I will give Evan a call and try out the can't hook.

Will also play around with partially cutting the wood, and then using a wedge.  

A lot of the stuff doesn't quite need to be noodled, but is just a little bit on the heavy side to safely lift. So i am really curious to see how much the cant hook helps with moving the logs to the splitter (in vertical mode).

Another thing i saw on here that is a really good idea, is using a 2 x 6 or 8 next to the foot plate the splitter, to give the wood more room to sit on, (currently have kind of hold the piece up next to the beam to keep it on the foot plate.

I would love to add a log lift, or a hoist on the splitter, but I have have limited storage space in the shed, and as Evan can attest, my welding skills not quite that up to that. (we had shop class together in school) haha.


But really guys you have given me lots of great ideas.


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 25, 2013)

upsnake said:


> Thanks guys,
> 
> I think noodling is going to get some more tries. I ordered the timberland sharpener, so hopefully have a sharper chain.
> At point I will give Evan a call and try out the can't hook.
> ...



Cant hooks are handy and nice to use on moving logs. Comes to moving rounds and positioning them I think you will find a Hookeroon wins hands down. Wouldn't apply to monster rounds though.

Harry K


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## ClimbMIT (Jan 25, 2013)

Looks good Fields mj. I may have to do the same


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## upsnake (Jan 27, 2013)

Just an update.

So I ordered the Tiberline Sharpener. I really like it. It was kind of embarrassing seeing how bad I was doing before though. :/ But oh well.

Took the saw out and actually got noodles, rather than the dust I normally got.

I tried the method of cutting partially through then using the wedge to finish. It worked really good. Here a couple of pics of the pieces that are wedged up to a safer level for the back. (Yes i can lift more, I just don't want to. haha)

This is about a big as I normally will get, so nothing compared to some of the monsters posted earlier, but still too big to lift
18" bar btw





Some of them stacked up waiting to go to the splitter now.





Just a couple other pieces that have been noodled down.





View attachment 275943
View attachment 275944
View attachment 275945


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## Bushmans (Jan 27, 2013)

Nice job!
I was splitting some earlier today that I had noodlewedged and they were still pretty heavy but I could manage to get them up on the beam! I could have probably hit them with the maul to downsize them again but I had so much wood to split that i didn't want to waste time


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## fields_mj (Jan 28, 2013)

Looks good! Congrats on the sharp chain  I've noticed the same thing. Seems like noodling dulls the chain faster than bucking. Probably because the cutters are having to drag those noodles out. Either way, a dull chain really slows the process down a LOT. 

I've gotten to the point that I noodle almost everything. I don't use the wedges hardly at all. Just too lazy I guess. Having said that, I lost the spark on my 064 last week, and haven't had a chance to get it fixed yet. Hopefull it's just a bad plug wire, or a short on the kill switch. I picked up a load of big rounds Sat morning that I had cut on Monday. Took the 036 w/ 18" B/C just in case but forgot to grab the bar oil out of the house :censored: So I pushed my luck an lifted several rounds that I really should have been split first. I was short on time, so I didn't even try the maul. I'm still a little tender over it. You would think that after 38 years on this earth, working construction for 6 years, working with mills, lathes, and grinders for the last 15 years, and having earned a BS degree in engineering, I would have learned better than that. Top priority this week: Get the bench cleaned off so that I can work on my big saw....


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## beerman6 (Jan 28, 2013)

Dont be to hard on yourself,I'm 45 and I still do stupid stuff :msp_biggrin:


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## fields_mj (Jan 28, 2013)

beerman6 said:


> Dont be to hard on yourself,I'm 45 and I still do stupid stuff :msp_biggrin:



So what you're saying is that there's no hope for me?


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## Marklambert61 (Jan 29, 2013)

*dig a hole*

Simple I just dug a hole to get the top of the splitter beam level with ground....made a little 2 X 12 bridge to fill the gap.....Roll them right on like a caveman and his first wheel.

Mark


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 29, 2013)

" Originally Posted by beerman6 
Dont be to hard on yourself,I'm 45 and I still do stupid stuff" 




fields_mj said:


> So what you're saying is that there's no hope for me?



If I'm an example, then no. I'm 77 and if it weren't for stupid stuff I'd have days where I'd get nothing done.

Harry K


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## beerman6 (Jan 29, 2013)




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