# 660 or 880?



## 2506 (Sep 23, 2008)

I have finally saved enough to purchase a new saw for milling. What is the largest bar a 660 can accommodate? I will be milling mostly Oak and Pecan. I have an Alaskan 36" mill and would most likely outfit with a 42" bar to take advantage of the entire capacity. I am considering the 880 for the occasional larger Oaks that I come across (will get a larger Alaskan). Will the 660 pull a 48" or longer bar? I can get the 660 now, but should I consider the 880 for occasional use or get the 660 and push it hard when a 48" or longer bar is necessary? Please advise. Thanks in advance for your advice.


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## BobL (Sep 24, 2008)

Bars are available as big as you like for both saws. 

The 066 will pull and cut a 48" , but it will be a little slower that the 088 in milling the big stuff.

The 088 will be better for big stuff but suck more gas at everything it's cutting and always weigh more, even if you are cutting twigs.

it comes down to what you mean by "occasionally" I would consider around a 20% or 1:5 figure. If you are milling big stuff more than 20% of the time I'd say the 088, otherwise the 066 would be the more sensible decision - but of course who says we are sensible - if you have the $$$ get both!


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## carvinmark (Sep 24, 2008)

BobL said:


> Bars are available as big as you like for both saws.
> 
> The 066 will pull and cut a 48" , but it will be a little slower that the 088 in milling the big stuff.
> 
> ...



+1


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## timberwolf (Sep 24, 2008)

It's good to have a couple different lengths of bars for milling, its a pain to cut smaller logs with a longer bar and just wastes power and reduces oiling for no gain. Go over about 32 inches an you really will want extra oil at the tip.


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## glennschumann (Sep 24, 2008)

I use an 066, 36" mill and 42" bar for milling, and I'm quite happy with it. If I had one or two logs that were bigger than the 34" that the mill can cut, I'd not hesitate to put a 48" bar on the 066 and mill slowly with that.

I currently use 3/8" chain, but I'm considering getting a new tip for the bar to use .325 chain as it has a thinner kerf, and folks report that it cuts faster / wastes less wood. That will have to wait till I use up my 3/8" chains, however.

The 48" bar with .325 chain may be the answer for you.

Other options are to take the huge logs and trim the sides a bit so you can get your 36" mill around them. (I've done that already) If you want the live edges of the slabs taken out of the middle of the log, this is not an option, however.

I do recommend also having a 24" and or 36" bar handy. I do much of my cutting with the 24 and 36. They are easier to handle, and cheaper to buy chains for. Longer bars also probably take a bit more HP to run. A long bar in a narrow log is more difficult to balance, uses more fuel, and has much more exposed chain in operation (Read: Less safe).

I also have a Husqvarna 3120 with a 60" bar, and I have to say that that power head and bar is HEAVY. I would not use that power head all day, unless it was needed for huge logs. Unless you are Andre the giant, the 660 is plenty to manage.

In the end if you find yourself getting lots of huge logs, you can also get a double ended bar up to 96" with two 660's on it. Slabs that large are going to require help to move anyway, so you might as well make use of the help while sawing too. 

Two power heads are not likely to cut twice as fast, but you will get the job done, and have a back up / felling saw saw for the smaller logs.


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## motoroilmccall (Sep 24, 2008)

If you're just going to mill with it, get the 880... It has all the power you'll ever want.

However, if you're going to use this for felling, the 880 gets way to heavy in a hurry. Bucking with them isn't as bad once you get the cut started, but I don't like them for felling at all. 

So, if you're just milling, get the 880, if you're looking for an all around saw, the 660 is hard to beat.


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## Trigger-Time (Sep 24, 2008)

I just bought an 880, it's a *gas hog*..........one gallon = just less than 3full tanks of fuel. 
It drinks the fuel fast. I have yet to mill with it though.
I want to run 10 tanks threw it before I mill with it.





.


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## chevytaHOE5674 (Sep 24, 2008)

I have my 066 and an 084. Not quite a 880 but close. The 084 drinks fuel like no other. If i can get away with the 066 i use it because it is easier on the arms, hands, fuel bill...etc. 

But occasionally you get the huge log and the 084 just does the job faster and easier than the 066. But like stated you also won't want to do much felling and bucking with an 880.


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## Brigade (Sep 24, 2008)

*Approximate hp & torque Requirement*

2506 -- This isn't an attempt to hijack your thread, rather a clarification of power.

Since people think a 066 is adequate for milling using a 36 inch Alaskan, would it be a reasonable generalization to say that any saw (vintage or new) in the 6 hp and 75-85 cc displacement should be able to pull a bar long enough to utilize the full wdth of the Alaskan?

I'm thinking west coast for cedar & fir primarily.

Regards


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## MJR (Sep 24, 2008)

Well 2506, which is one of my favorite rifles/bullets of which I just built a AR15 in a 25 WSSM. Look into small band mills if you can. Hands down better to use if you can move the logs. I have a little LL24 and my CSM rig is very dusty. Good luck to you.


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## timberwolf (Sep 24, 2008)

> any saw (vintage or new) in the 6 hp and 75-85 cc displacement should be able to pull a bar long enough to utilize the full wdth of the Alaskan?



SUre some guys even make do with 60 cc saws. But I would not want to drop much below 90cc, there is a faie difference in torque between a 066 and some higher reving 80cc saw. Big HP numbers at higher RPM don't equal the same HP at a lower RPM when it comes to milling bigger wood.

Also the clutches on smaller faster saws won't take the abuse as well as a slower turning bigger saw.


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## 2506 (Sep 24, 2008)

*Thanks for the input, 660/880*

Thank you all for the input, I really appreciate the experience and klowlege available on this forum. I really want the 880, but think the 660 would be a more practical choice. I am planning on setting up with a selection of bars, chains and different sprocket pitches from Baileys coincidental with the saw purchase. The initial investment of a 660 over an 880 would make the move less financially painful. (Damn!, just broke a tooth last night after posting my question, it will set me back a paycheck or two, but have saved too long and sacrificed too much to give up). 
And yes, the Remington 2506 is an awesome cartridge, especially if you reload.


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## Stihl 041S (Sep 25, 2008)

Not to hijack, but how would an 076 or a double 051 stack against those two?
As to quarter bores, I'm starting a 25X50 (a 50mm length 223 ) on a Model Seven.
Love those quarter bores.


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## BobL (Sep 25, 2008)

Stihl 041S said:


> Not to hijack, but how would an 076 or a double 051 stack against those two?
> As to quarter bores, I'm starting a 25X50 (a 50mm length 223 ) on a Model Seven.
> Love those quarter bores.



of the 4 saws, the 051 has least HP and a similar torque to the 066. The 076 has the same HP as the 066 but the 076 will have more torque. The 088 has both more torque and HP than the others. Ultimate cutting speeds depends on how well one can keep the revs up under specific cutting conditions.


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## Stihl 041S (Sep 25, 2008)

BobL said:


> of the 4 saws, the 051 has least HP and a similar torque to the 066. The 076 has the same HP as the 066 but the 076 will have more torque. The 088 has both more torque and HP than the others. Ultimate cutting speeds depends on how well one can keep the revs up under specific cutting conditions.


I was going to double end a pair of 051 with the gas tanks and fans fron an 076, or run an 076, some have said a double ender doesn't halp that much, I don't know. Thanks for the post.
Rob


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## BlueRider (Sep 27, 2008)

the early 051 (oil filler on the top)high capacity tank holds more fuel than the later model 051/075(oil filler on the side). not sure about the 076 and its different variations. I would probably opt for the single larger saw but I have never run a dual set up. I'd be curious to hear how a single 051 compares to dual 051's and a single 075.


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## Zodiac45 (Sep 27, 2008)

2506 said:


> Thank you all for the input, I really appreciate the experience and klowlege available on this forum. I really want the 880, but think the 660 would be a more practical choice. I am planning on setting up with a selection of bars, chains and different sprocket pitches from Baileys coincidental with the saw purchase. The initial investment of a 660 over an 880 would make the move less financially painful. (Damn!, just broke a tooth last night after posting my question, it will set me back a paycheck or two, but have saved too long and sacrificed too much to give up).
> And yes, the Remington 2506 is an awesome cartridge, especially if you reload.



I think the 660 is probably a wise choice. Unless you are always milling very large hardwood, the 660 should serve you well. Good luck with it and you busted tooth! I did same. Filling fell out and it left it too long and the tooth broke Now it's about 3 times as much too fix.


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## oldsaw (Sep 27, 2008)

I run a 36" Alaskan with both 36 and 42" bars. The 660 will be a better all around choice unless you have a big saw for felling and bucking and just want something on the mill. The 880 will perform better in big wood, but I've pulled all 34 available inches through oak with an 066 and it did just fine.

Mark


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## Stihl 041S (Sep 27, 2008)

BlueRider said:


> the early 051 (oil filler on the top)high capacity tank holds more fuel than the later model 051/075(oil filler on the side). not sure about the 076 and its different variations. I would probably opt for the single larger saw but I have never run a dual set up. I'd be curious to hear how a single 051 compares to dual 051's and a single 075.


I have 900ml on the 051/ 1200ml on the 076, from acres site.
I may have to try all 3 setups, though it will be mid winter before I do, I owe some machine time to some folks, just getting the saws finished now.I ended up with a 42 inch double bar and some 051s so....................


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## guitarborist (Sep 27, 2008)

I run a 42",30" and 17" bar on an 075. It pulls all without any problems using .404 chain (now I run .375). If I had the money I would go for the 660. The 75/76 is a great saw and very powerful, reliable but very heavy. I bought mine for $300, a new 660 with a 42" bar would cost the same as my entire milling set up. I use a 660 at work all the time and love it, never had any problems and it would be a great milling saw, the only problem for me is the $. I use an 088 at work too but I avoid it a much as possible. I have not milled with one, I use it to fall big trees. I will use the 660 on trees up to 48" (36" bar) before I get the big a$$ 088 out, it is just so heavy.


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## steve fryar (Sep 27, 2008)

I was looking at a big 880 myself but ended up with a husky395 and I can tell you that it doesn't get any lighter by the end of the day.A big 880 will make the end of the day come sooner,not because of its performance,but because of its weight.


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## Stihl 041S (Sep 27, 2008)

I have an old 298 to be worked on, and an 066 for cutting, just wanted to use the 1111 series, for milling, thought the weight wouldn't mean as much when milling.
Rob


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## 2506 (Sep 27, 2008)

*Anybody have any experience with the Solo 694?*

Hate to hijack my own thread, but the Solo 694 that Baileys has looks to be the same power as the 660. Any one have milling experience with it? I would save $200 with it and could apply that to more chains and extra milling accessories. I am leaning toward the 660, but $200 would help me achieve my goal of setting up sooner. Thanks for your advice.


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## Zodiac45 (Sep 28, 2008)

It's the same saw as the big Dolmar 9010 rebadged as a Solo. Pretty stout saw with allot of torque. It makes a good milling saw as it's not a screamer type power band and pulls hard throughout the top half of the rev range. It's a very good saw for the value.


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## BlueRider (Sep 29, 2008)

Stihl 041S said:


> I have 900ml on the 051/ 1200ml on the 076, from acres site.
> I may have to try all 3 setups, though it will be mid winter before I do, I owe some machine time to some folks, just getting the saws finished now.I ended up with a 42 inch double bar and some 051s so....................



I don't doubt that Stihl made those saws with those capacities. I also know that the two 051's that I have are diferent vintages and they have differerent sized fuel tanks. The older saw has a much larger tank and I would guess it is in the 1200ml range, same as the 075/076. the older 051 has a diferent flywheel and points set up and I have not tried to see if the tank will swap straight across with the newer vintage 051. I do tend to reach for the older saw due to the larger capacity tank so it might be worth looking into if you like using the dual 051 set up.

Just incase you might be thinking that my older saw is an 075 with a smaller jug it is infact an 051 due to the smaller sized cylinder bolt holes. I have one 051 that I made that mod to so it is now an 075, something else for you to think about.


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## 2506 (Oct 5, 2008)

*660 it is !!*

Thanks for all the advice. I picked up my new 660 Friday after work. Gently breaking it in now. I am in the process of putting an order into Baileys for milling bar, chain and accessories. Does anyone have any experience with the two 41-42" bars they sell? 41" Oregon Powermatch at $85 or the 42" Woodland Pro at $170? I will contact my Stihl dealer Monday about their 41". I want to maximize all available room on my 36" Alaskan. Thanks for all your help/advice.


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## dustytools (Oct 5, 2008)

2506 said:


> Thanks for all the advice. I picked up my new 660 Friday after work. Gently breaking it in now. I am in the process of putting an order into Baileys for milling bar, chain and accessories. Does anyone have any experience with the two 41-42" bars they sell? 41" Oregon Powermatch at $85 or the 42" Woodland Pro at $170? I will contact my Stihl dealer Monday about their 41". I want to maximize all available room on my 36" Alaskan. Thanks for all your help/advice.



I have an Oregon Powermatch 42" that I use from time to time on my 395. So far it seems like a very good bar. Congratulations on the 660, im sure you will be very happy with it.


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## glennschumann (Oct 5, 2008)

I have the 42" Oregon pro bar, and it is fine for what I do. I've milled about 30 logs, and there is a small amount of wear, but not more than I would have expected. If you are planning on doing this for a career, a Cannon bar may be in order, but if just a hobby... the Oregon should be sufficient. This bar will allow you to make the maximum cut with your 36" mill. Enjoy!


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## steve fryar (Oct 5, 2008)

2506 said:


> Thanks for all the advice. I picked up my new 660 Friday after work. Gently breaking it in now. I am in the process of putting an order into Baileys for milling bar, chain and accessories. Does anyone have any experience with the two 41-42" bars they sell? 41" Oregon Powermatch at $85 or the 42" Woodland Pro at $170? I will contact my Stihl dealer Monday about their 41". I want to maximize all available room on my 36" Alaskan. Thanks for all your help/advice.



It will be interesting what chain they reccomend or do you have something in mind already?As for the bar,if you are a hobbyist like me,an Oregon bar is fine and I am slabbing hardwood.


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## oldsaw (Oct 5, 2008)

glennschumann said:


> I have the 42" Oregon pro bar, and it is fine for what I do. I've milled about 30 logs, and there is a small amount of wear, but not more than I would have expected. If you are planning on doing this for a career, a Cannon bar may be in order, but if just a hobby... the Oregon should be sufficient. This bar will allow you to make the maximum cut with your 36" mill. Enjoy!



I've been incredibly happy with mine too. It is the best wear I've ever seen on an Oregon bar. They did that one right.

Mark


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## 2506 (Oct 5, 2008)

I am going to start out with a 42" bar, probably the Oregon, as everyone says it is a good one for the money and .063, .375 ripping chain from Baileys. They always answer my questions and are so helpful (and patient). I've got the saw strapped down now burning a tank of gas through it at various lower RPM's, as the manual states no high RPM's for the first three tanks.


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## excess650 (Oct 5, 2008)

I had purchased a rebuilt 066 with new P&C, new B&C. It seemed to work pretty well, and compression was on the rise as I ran several tanks through it. A fellow AS member mentioned that he was doing big bore kits in several 066s, and commented how much stronger they were. I took my saw over and had him install the kit. It was stronger from the first cut, and now has several tanks through it. I think it had one tank through before it went onto the mill. I've got to tell you, it cuts at least 2-3 times faster in the same wood as did my 272xp. It uses less fuel and oil for the same boards, and doesn't work nearly as hard. I'm impressed!

I saw an 088 for sale with 48" B&C, and it sure convinced me that I didn't need one. That thing is huge and heavy.


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