# Husqvarna 346xp bar and gauge recommend



## chrisoppie (Mar 26, 2010)

I am pretty sure i will be picking up a new Husqvarna 346xp tonight.
I notice they recommend. 16, 18, and 20 " bars and 50 and 58 gauge.
I’m getting tired of bringing 2 saws to the job so I’m "gunning for this to handle most of the work I will see while working as a one man crew. 
What would/do you use (bar and gauge) I am thinking of 18 inch bar and 58 gauge, it seems like the right bar for me and 58 because this is pretty munch the common size my dealer carries. Most common cutting is pine ranging from 5-16 inch oaks and maples of the same or smaller size
Thanks,
Chris


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## Art Vandelay (Mar 26, 2010)

A 16" would be best. Nothing wrong with the 18" as the 346 will handle it. A 20 is definitely too much bar for that saw. I don't see any reason to go over .050 gauge.


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## Evan (Mar 26, 2010)

18" 3/8" with some oregon lgx would be a pretty good setup for all around use. thats the combo im running on my 026 and its a good do all limbing to small tree bucking


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## taplinhill (Mar 26, 2010)

If the dealers around you stock .058 gauge, that is what to buy.
As for the bar, if your only cutting up to 16", get a 16".


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## nikocker (Mar 26, 2010)

*Right On.*



taplinhill said:


> If the dealers around you stock .058 gauge, that is what to buy.
> As for the bar, if your only cutting up to 16", get a 16".



I'm running 16" - .58 with 21 LP Oregon.

Awesome.

Al


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## chrisoppie (Mar 26, 2010)

Looking at baileys bar and chain sets for this saw, the price diff between 16 and 18 are pretty close. I will have to handle the saw in the shop and see what's to be had there. Thanks for the comments guys.


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## gallegosmike (Mar 26, 2010)

42" harvester bar running .404 chipper .80 gauge chain.... :monkey: Errr, Run a 16" to 18" bar 3/8 .50 gauge full chisel.


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## chrisoppie (Mar 26, 2010)

I need some one to expain to me why 3/8 is better then 325 pitch.
I could ask my dealer for a 3/8 set up, that would be a different sprocket and bar. Can you just replace the rim or do you have to get a whole new drum and rim, I am assuming it has a rim setup. Thanks, i am sure this has been answered a million times


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## komatsuvarna (Mar 26, 2010)

Id stick with .050. Its more common here than .058. My 372 come with .058 and id rather have .050. Theres just more options in a .050.


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## SawTroll (Mar 26, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> I am pretty sure i will be picking up a new Husqvarna 346xp tonight.
> I notice they recommend. 16, 18, and 20 " bars and 50 and 58 gauge.
> I’m getting tired of bringing 2 saws to the job so I’m "gunning for this to handle most of the work I will see while working as a one man crew.
> What would/do you use (bar and gauge) I am thinking of 18 inch bar and 58 gauge, it seems like the right bar for me and 58 because this is pretty munch the common size my dealer carries. Most common cutting is pine ranging from 5-16 inch oaks and maples of the same or smaller size
> ...



Stay with .058 if it is the most common in your area, and stay with 16" for that wood.



taplinhill said:


> If the dealers around you stock .058 gauge, that is what to buy.
> As for the bar, if your only cutting up to 16", get a 16".





nikocker said:


> I'm running 16" - .58 with 21 LP Oregon.
> 
> Awesome.
> 
> Al



:agree2:

:agree2:


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## wigglesworth (Mar 26, 2010)

I run 24" .404 on my 346XP....ok....I dont have a 346XP.....but if I did, I would run a 24" .404 because, dog gonnit, its the Mighty Husqvarna 346XP so it can pull it....Its the baddest saw known to MANKIND....Mankind...such a funny word...actually its made up of two words.....Mank and Ind....someday I'll figure out what a Mank and an Ind is.....then I will know the true meaning of why we are all here on this big blue planet.........




husky kicks!


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## chrisoppie (Mar 26, 2010)

Wiggles? you hitting the beers already? I might need to also to understand your post completly :greenchainsaw:


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## wigglesworth (Mar 26, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> Wiggles? you hitting the beers already? I might need to also to understand your post completly :greenchainsaw:



Nope...dont drink. Must be a lack of sleep....carry on....


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## chrisoppie (Mar 26, 2010)

Right on Man!


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## gallegosmike (Mar 26, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> I need some one to expain to me why 3/8 is better then 325 pitch.
> I could ask my dealer for a 3/8 set up, that would be a different sprocket and bar. Can you just replace the rim or do you have to get a whole new drum and rim, I am assuming it has a rim setup. Thanks, i am sure this has been answered a million times



One the big reasons for 3/8th over .325 chain is how much longer it will last vs. a smaller .325 chain. A 3/8 chains cutters are longer (more sharpening cycles) and chain parts are more heavy duty(bigger drivers, links and straps). The saw should come with a rim and drum setup. Not to hard to switch out to a 3/8th 7-pin rim. It should not cost for a dealer to swap out to a 3/8th rim, bar, and chain for you. 

A .325 chain will cut faster then a 3/8th chain because of the kerf is narrow compared to a standard 3/8th chain. With the kerf being narrow, less horse power is wasted making a cut. Making .325 some what faster at the expense of over all durabilty.


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## Gypo Logger (Mar 26, 2010)

I'd go 16" max. The dealer might roll his eyes when you ask him to change the pitch, so how to handle him, just say: "I was thinking of getting a 20" 325., but I want a 16" 3/8 1.3 or 1.5 mil"
I think 20" bars are more expensive. Just so the dealer doesn't feel jerked around, tell him you'll make the switch with the sprocket and that he doesn't need to prep the saw, if you're so inclined.
Dealers often get annoyed when someone wants to change the program.

Gypo


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## Gypo Logger (Mar 26, 2010)

BTW, if you get the 16" 3/8, make sure you get a Husky bar (Oregon) with a replaceable tip. You don't want to end up with a stupid homeowner laminated bar.
Gypo


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## NYH1 (Mar 26, 2010)

My NE 346XP came with a 16" bar and a 21LP .325" x .058" chain. I haven't used any other bar and/or chain set up on it. I have no reason too. The only thing I did was ditch the catalytic converter muffler to a non catalytic converter muffler. It's an absolute screamer!


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## SawTroll (Mar 26, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> BTW, if you get the 16" 3/8, make sure you get a Husky bar (Oregon) with a replaceable tip. You don't want to end up with a stupid homeowner laminated bar.
> Gypo



I respect your opinion, but I don't agree about the laminated bars - the better ones are good enough, and usually lighter!


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## Woodcutteranon (Mar 26, 2010)

16 inch .325 .50 makes this saw like a lazer beam. You point it at the branch and the branch falls off.


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## chrisoppie (Mar 26, 2010)

What a nice saw;
16 in .325 can't wait to use this bad boy in action (Sunday).
I will post picturs for you guys, cause I know it did not really happen till I post the pic's


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## TommySaw (Mar 26, 2010)

16" bar w/.325 .058 RMC


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## Gypo Logger (Mar 26, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> I respect your opinion, but I don't agree about the laminated bars - the better ones are good enough, and usually lighter!



That's good to know Sawtroll. If you say their good, than I stand corrected.
Are there no Husky16" bars out there with replaceable tips? Can you cut 100 cords with those Norweigan laminated bars or will Oregon do the trick?
If the guys buying a pro saw, he's gonna want a pro bar.
Gypo


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## Evan (Mar 26, 2010)

this is why all mine wear 3/8 050 chains from little to big they are all interchangable.
<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid661.photobucket.com/albums/uu339/Evan03_photo/saw%20vids/GEDC1918.flv">


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## chrisoppie (Mar 26, 2010)

*It's here*

I can't wait to put this through it's paces! 
It is a 16 inch bar 325 .050 gauge. Here is some eye candy.
Thanks for tagging along


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## Evan (Mar 26, 2010)

sweet looking saw congrats


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## Art Vandelay (Mar 26, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> I can't wait to put this through it's paces!
> It is a 16 inch bar 325 .050 gauge. Here is some eye candy.
> Thanks for tagging along



Mine will be getting plenty of action with the same setup tomorrow.


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## chrisoppie (Mar 26, 2010)

Thanks Evan.

Art, good luck, rip it up, have some fun and be safe.

Now... Run it Like I rented it or should I put it through easy duty for a few tanks?: 
Thanks,
Chris


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## dingeryote (Mar 26, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> I can't wait to put this through it's paces!
> It is a 16 inch bar 325 .050 gauge. Here is some eye candy.
> Thanks for tagging along




WOOOHOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
New 346!!!!

Congrats on the new Limb laser!

You're gonna have a hoot with it!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## dingeryote (Mar 26, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> Thanks Evan.
> 
> Art, good luck, rip it up, have some fun and be safe.
> 
> ...




Chris,

Just heat cycle it a few times with some light limbing.

Snip 2-3 limbs, shut it off to cool for 10 min or so, and repeat untill you have half a dozen cycles on it, and then take it easy for the rest of the tank.
Just no long full throttle cuts like Bucking a 20" stem and such.

The idea is to let all the parts expand and contract and get to know each other hot and cold without busting things, and let the rings seat before loading them with carbon.

Then let 'er sing her guts out!!!!

Wait till ya get 4-5 tanks through it, and it starts getting really SNOTTY.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## chrisoppie (Mar 26, 2010)

Thanks for the advice dingeryote.
It's almost midnight and I am so tempted to filler up and take some bark! Little kid on Christmas all over again


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## Gypo Logger (Mar 27, 2010)

The 346 is nothing compared to the 026!
Gypo


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## rbtree (Mar 27, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> BTW, if you get the 16" 3/8, make sure you get a Husky bar (Oregon) with a replaceable tip. You don't want to end up with a stupid homeowner laminated bar.
> Gypo



Actually, as we work aloft, I like the cheapo bars, as they're light....

You oughta see my slingerized 346NE cut, Gypo.....my first 346 was the one by Dennis that I won from ya off fleabay...the second was done by Ed....but that NE is easily the best of the bunch, including my ehp 5100......


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## husky455rancher (Mar 27, 2010)

.375" 18" bar on mine. i dont understand why you dont wanna bring more than 1 saw to the job. i usually just bring extra saws instead of extra gas lol. some of the kids get jealous if they all dont get to come out and play.


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## wigglesworth (Mar 27, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> The 346 is nothing compared to the 026!
> Gypo


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## SWE#Kipp (Mar 27, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> The 346 is nothing compared to the 026!
> Gypo



That is a beautiful bar you got there !!!


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## Gypo Logger (Mar 27, 2010)

rbtree said:


> Actually, as we work aloft, I like the cheapo bars, as they're light....
> 
> You oughta see my slingerized 346NE cut, Gypo.....my first 346 was the one by Dennis that I won from ya off fleabay...the second was done by Ed....but that NE is easily the best of the bunch, including my ehp 5100......



Glad to hear you still got the greffardized 346 Roger. How's the 372 doing?
Gypo


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## SawTroll (Mar 27, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> That's good to know Sawtroll. If you say their good, than I stand corrected.
> Are there no Husky16" bars out there with replaceable tips? Can you cut 100 cords with those Norweigan laminated bars or will Oregon do the trick?
> If the guys buying a pro saw, he's gonna want a pro bar.
> Gypo



This har nothing to do with correct vs. false - more about how you weight the different factors! 

All the RSN Husky bars are rebadged, most of them Oregon PM.

I see your point, but I frankly don't care if they last a 100 cords (or whatever) - they are cheaper, so you can change them more often than the RSN ones.

Why I prefere them on smaller saws is the simple fact that they are lighter than the RSN ones


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## Gypo Logger (Mar 27, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> This har nothing to do with correct vs. false - more about how you weight the different factors!
> 
> All the RSN Husky bars are rebadged, most of them Oregon PM.
> 
> ...



I see no problem with buying or using them. I just thought when buying a new one the purchaser should get at least a pro bar. unless it affected the purchase price.
John


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## Gypo Logger (Mar 27, 2010)

SWE#Kipp said:


> That is a beautiful bar you got there !!!



How come nobody noticed that it wasn't an 026? Lol
Gypo


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## SawTroll (Mar 27, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> I can't wait to put this through it's paces!
> It is a 16 inch bar 325 .050 gauge. Here is some eye candy.
> Thanks for tagging along



Cool, but that bar is a narrow-kerf one, make sure the chain isn't H30/95VP - that chain doesn't do that saw justice. If it is, get some 20LP, and reserve that chain for "dirty-work".


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## wigglesworth (Mar 27, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> How come nobody noticed that it wasn't an 026? Lol
> Gypo



Because im slow...like them husky saws...especially them ones with the laminated bars.


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## NYH1 (Mar 27, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> I can't wait to put this through it's paces!
> It is a 16 inch bar 325 .050 gauge. Here is some eye candy.
> Thanks for tagging along


Looks just like the one I have in my basement.....I gotta few chips on mine though!


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## chrisoppie (Mar 27, 2010)

I filled it up and ran if for a few minutes...
All I can say is "W O W" ":censored:'s got power". 
I have run MS 260 PRO's in wood before, this 346xp all ready sounds/feels the bees knees. I will let you know how it does in about 5, 30 foot maples I have to take out for a customer tomorrow.
-Chris


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## SawTroll (Mar 27, 2010)

rbtree said:


> Actually, as we work aloft, I like the cheapo bars, as they're light....
> 
> You oughta see my slingerized 346NE cut, Gypo.....my first 346 was the one by Dennis that I won from ya off fleabay...the second was done by Ed....but that NE is easily the best of the bunch, including my ehp 5100......



Nice report, and I agree the weight is more important than the longevity of the bars, at least on smaller saws! 

Really nice to see you around, btw!


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## pjwoolw (Mar 27, 2010)

Very nice saw. I'm close to pulling the trigger on one myself.


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## 63012753 (Mar 27, 2010)

*Gauge Question*

When all of you are talking about the various bars. I have a 575XP with .058 gauge chain versus the .050. But really what is the operational difference between the .058 and .050 gauge chains?

Thanks


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## TommySaw (Mar 27, 2010)

63012753 said:


> When all of you are talking about the various bars. I have a 575XP with .058 gauge chain versus the .050. But really what is the operational difference between the .058 and .050 gauge chains?
> 
> Thanks



beefier DL's by a whopping .006" and a subsequent incompatability with .050" bars:monkey:


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## SawTroll (Mar 27, 2010)

63012753 said:


> When all of you are talking about the various bars. I have a 575XP with .058 gauge chain versus the .050. But really what is the operational difference between the .058 and .050 gauge chains?
> 
> Thanks



Actually, it doesn't matter at all, as long as the bar and chain is the same gauge! 

Apart from that, it is just about local habits - just get what is most common in your area!.


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## chrisoppie (Mar 28, 2010)

Saw performed flawlessly and as I expected, fast cutting and loads of power. I really can't identify the chain that has come with the saw, by looking at it. It does not look like safety chain at all it has a number on each strap "23". I will have to try some husky h37 or some h23 chain. I will get a 18 inch bar and some 20lpx, I think sawtroll suggested that chain. 
Now I have the pleasure of cleaning this bad boy


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## SawTroll (Mar 29, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> Saw performed flawlessly and as I expected, fast cutting and loads of power. I really can't identify the chain that has come with the saw, by looking at it. It does not look like safety chain at all it has a number on each strap "23". I will have to try some husky h37 or some h23 chain. I will get a 18 inch bar and some 20lpx, I think sawtroll suggested that chain.
> Now I have the pleasure of cleaning this bad boy



Sounds like what you got is H23 = 20LP(X).


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## komatsuvarna (Mar 29, 2010)

:agree2: I dont think that any of the pro line of husky saws come with safety chain.


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## chrisoppie (Mar 29, 2010)

Felt like a full chisel chain in the cut, very "grabby" with min pressure.
So would that mean that the H37 chain is the round ground or semi chisel version?
Muddy conditions yeaterday have pretty much dulled the chain, so I have to pick up a backup and some file equipment for these chains, I can't find any info on www.oregonchain.com about file size for 20LPX, any one know?

I think the only pro saws with safey chain are the top handles, that I have seen.

Thanks,
Chris


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## komatsuvarna (Mar 29, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> Felt like a full chisel chain in the cut, very "grabby" with min pressure.
> So would that mean that the H37 chain is the round ground or semi chisel version?
> Muddy conditions yeaterday have pretty much dulled the chain, so I have to pick up a backup and some file equipment for these chains, I can't find any info on www.oregonchain.com about file size for 20LPX, any one know?
> 
> ...



Look at the corner (were the side meets the top) of the cutter. If its real square (like the number 7) it is Chisel. If the corner is kinda rounded off its semi-chisel.


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## SawTroll (Mar 29, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> Felt like a full chisel chain in the cut, very "grabby" with min pressure.
> So would that mean that the H37 chain is the round ground or semi chisel version?
> Muddy conditions yeaterday have pretty much dulled the chain, so I have to pick up a backup and some file equipment for these chains, I can't find any info on www.oregonchain.com about file size for 20LPX, any one know?
> 
> ...



File size is 3/16" for the LP/LPX, and yes, they are chisel chain (round ground).


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## chrisoppie (Mar 29, 2010)

Thanks komatsuvarna, I will have to inspect closer.
Thanks sawtroll you have been very helpfull the past few months.
-Chris


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## Chaz1 (Mar 29, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> Thanks komatsuvarna, I will have to inspect closer.
> Thanks sawtroll you have been very helpfull the past few months.
> -Chris



May I suggest trying a Stihl RSC chain if you have it available to you. That's all I use now. Great chain in clean wood. I also use Save Edge files found here on this site. GREAT files!


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## Vibes (Mar 29, 2010)

While on topic of .050 and .058 chain. I have a 16'' Total bar thats marked .050- .058. I'm assuming that means compatible to both guages. Would there be allot of play on the chain if I were to run .050 on this bar? If I were to run .050, would it where the bar out quicker?


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## SawTroll (Mar 29, 2010)

Chaz1 said:


> May I suggest trying a Stihl RSC chain if you have it available to you. That's all I use now. Great chain in clean wood. I also use Save Edge files found here on this site. GREAT files!



I use both 21LP and 25RSC on my 346xp, and prefere the LP by a slight margin, so far. I found it a tad faster (with once filed chain), maybe because a of a slightly narrower kerf, and the cutters are longer.


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## Termite (Mar 29, 2010)

I prefer .063 chain and bars because that is the gauge the sprocket nose and rim sprocket is made for. 
It has to run a little smoother and guide the chain better.


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## Chaz1 (Mar 29, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> I use both 21LP and 25RSC on my 346xp, and prefere the LP by a slight margin, so far. I found it a tad faster (with once filed chain), maybe because a of a slightly narrower kerf, and the cutters are longer.



I cut mostly northern hardwoods(ash,maple,cherry) and the Stihl RSC chains hold there edge longer in these woods. Oregon's chains are just too soft for the hardwoods and tend to dull quicker. Faster doesn't always fit into the the needs of some sawyers.


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## TommySaw (Mar 29, 2010)

Chaz1 said:


> I cut mostly northern hardwoods(ash,maple,cherry) and the Stihl RSC chains hold there edge longer in these woods. Oregon's chains are just too soft for the hardwoods and tend to dull quicker. Faster doesn't always fit into the the needs of some sawyers.



that's why I run semi-chisel, I gain back the cut time by not having to sharpen my chain after every tank


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## Chaz1 (Mar 29, 2010)

Stretch is another factor why I've gone with the stihl rsc. After the initial stretch it just seems to maintain it's length a LOT longer than Oregon.


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## SawTroll (Mar 29, 2010)

Chaz1 said:


> .... Faster doesn't always fit into the the needs of some sawyers.



*That* sure is true - I am referring to cuts in clean and green birch. 

I don't fully share your general opinion on Oregon chain though!


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## BloodOnTheIce (Mar 29, 2010)

Best set up for a 346XP
13" carlton bar and run 3/8" .050 RSLK square ground chain.


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## Chaz1 (Mar 29, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> *That* sure is true - I am referring to cuts in clean and green birch.
> 
> I don't fully share your general opinion on Oregon chain though!



That's ok. I'm retired now so I spend lots of time felling and especially bucking all kinds of wood. I've just put too much time on different kinds of chain to not notice which works best for me. It's just my own personal opinion.


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## Boogieman142 (Mar 29, 2010)

Chaz1 said:


> That's ok. I'm retired now so I spend lots of time felling and especially bucking all kinds of wood. I've just put too much time on different kinds of chain to not notice which works best for me. It's just my own personal opinion.



The chain on your saw seems to cut fine with me. I just don't see how .002 sec difference makes one chain better than the other. I do agree with you on the oregon chain stretching more tho as we discussed that day. Plus the stihl chain seems to hold an edge better(more chrome). As an added note, I run both of them so its not like I don't have and experience with just 1.


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## SawTroll (Mar 29, 2010)

Boogieman142 said:


> The chain on your saw seems to cut fine with me. I just don't see how .002 sec difference makes one chain better than the other. I do agree with you on the oregon chain stretching more tho as we discussed that day. Plus the stihl chain seems to hold an edge better(more chrome). As an added note, I run both of them so its not like I don't have and experience with just 1.



Not that it matters much, but the thicker chrome also means that you can't get them as sharp - LOL! 

If memory serves, the only "Rockwell" test I have seen, showed that the steel itself in the Stihl cutters actually is softer than in both Oregon and Carlton - it doesn't fit with my feelings from filing though.


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## chrisoppie (Mar 29, 2010)

Outboard clutch!!! so to clean out the sprocket area and inner bar plate, I need to get a clucth wrench? The last saw I had that had the outboard clutch was a Wild thing. I will admit, I have not read the manual cover to cover yet. On aother note, is a 45mm bar so 18 inch, it still cuts the Nutts!


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## tawilson (Mar 29, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> Outboard clutch!!! so to clean out the sprocket area and inner bar plate, I need to get a clucth wrench? The last saw I had that had the outboard clutch was a Wild thing. I will admit, I have not read the manual cover to cover yet. On aother note, is a 45mm bar so 18 inch, it still cuts the Nutts!



Or make something work. I got the clutch off mine a couple weeks ago with a set of stubby needlenose pliers and a screwdriver. I will pick up a clutch tool next time I order from Bailey's.


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## SawTroll (Mar 29, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> Outboard clutch!!! so to clean out the sprocket area and inner bar plate, I need to get a clucth wrench? The last saw I had that had the outboard clutch was a Wild thing. I will admit, I have not read the manual cover to cover yet. On aother note, is a 45mm bar so 18 inch, it still cuts the Nutts!



The outboard clutch, for a purpose, is one of the things that made them able to make a saw that is better handling than the competition - compressed air works well in the sprocket area, and the bar plate area isn't affected at all.


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## chrisoppie (Mar 31, 2010)

Any one have an opinion on hard nose bars for this saw (346xp)?
16 inch bar.
Current conditions of cutting are pretty muddy here in New England. The rest of the use will be not as bad but some times we get the occasional berried log
I also see Bailey's has some great pricing on carlton sprocket tip combos, but i wanted to see if the hard nose might be a better option.
-Chris


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## SawTroll (Mar 31, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> Any one have an opinion on hard nose bars for this saw (346xp)?
> 16 inch bar.
> Current conditions of cutting are pretty muddy here in New England. The rest of the use will be not as bad but some times we get the occasional berried log
> I also see Bailey's has some great pricing on carlton sprocket tip combos, but i wanted to see if the hard nose might be a better option.
> -Chris



Hard nose bars steal power, not a good option on a small saw!


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## B_Turner (Mar 31, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> Hard nose bars steal power, not a good option on a small saw!



I use hard nose and carving bars on small saws sometimes so I can run small pitched chain, but when possible I prefer a sprocket nose.

Esp on a longer hardnose bar, the chain does not run quite as smooth around the bar as with a sprocket. You can visually see the difference.


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## B_Turner (Mar 31, 2010)

BloodOnTheIce said:


> Best set up for a 346XP
> 13" carlton bar and run 3/8" .050 RSLK square ground chain.



Sharp 3/8 square right off the grinder kicks butt with a 346 for sure.

But if my square grinder could sharpen .325 chisel, I think .325 square might be even faster. (I've heard this and believe it.)

My ProSharp can't do .325.


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## chrisoppie (Apr 15, 2010)

Man, the more I use this saw the more in love I get with it!!!


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## tawilson (Apr 15, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> Man, the more I use this saw the more in love I get with it!!!


Do what I did, go get a room and get it over with.
And I don't even have the NE.


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## SawTroll (Apr 15, 2010)

chrisoppie said:


> Man, the more I use this saw the more in love I get with it!!!



No surprice really!


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## chrisoppie (Apr 22, 2010)

Im not sure yet I have to double check, but... I ordered a H23 (20lp) I told my dealer 72dl. the box says 20lp 74, I am thinking the 74 is the drive links. My setup is for 72 dl, should I not even try this chain if it is a 74dl and bring it back for a 72dl. I am just unclear what the difference is between the two chains, they are both 18".
Thanks,
Chris


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## REJ2 (Apr 22, 2010)

The same so called "bar length" from different bar manufacturers can vary a link or two. Check the drive link stamping on your bar and buy accordingly. REJ2


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## chrisoppie (Apr 22, 2010)

bar says 72, ok I will have to bring it back.


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