# ms 260 chain oiler



## rbiersteker (Mar 8, 2011)

Hi guys. I'm fairly new to the site. I've already gotten great advice without even asking a question!!! I just picked up a really clean MS 260. I started it up, and thought it was spraying oil. Might just have been dirty sawdust. Noticed the chain was looking dry so I went to adjust the oiler. It has the E oiler. I can't seem to even see a screw for adjustment. I used a trouble light to look as deep as possible. No sign of one. What type of screw head(philips etc) should it be. I assume a small standard(slot). Please help a newbie out. This was my first time using a chainsaw. I LOVE it!! I see a collection soon!!!!!


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## showrguy (Mar 8, 2011)

small straight blade........it's in there..


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## rbiersteker (Mar 8, 2011)

Thanks, i picked up a smaller driver. Ill give it a shot later tonight.


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## bobt (Mar 8, 2011)

I don't know what an "E" oiler means, but unless your MS260 is a "pro" model, you can't adjust the oiler.

If you have the adjustable oiler,,,,the adjustment is on the bottom of the saw, and the screw is no more that a half inch below the housing. It takes a flat blade screwdriver.


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## rbiersteker (Mar 8, 2011)

bobt said:


> I don't know what an "E" oiler means, but unless your MS260 is a "pro" model, you can't adjust the oiler.
> 
> If you have the adjustable oiler,,,,the adjustment is on the bottom of the saw, and the screw is no more that a half inch below the housing. It takes a flat blade screwdriver.


 
Yes I have the pro. NO screw. I can see in about an inch or so. No screw to be found. I didnt think it would be too deep in there. So... Whats the order to disassemble to find the issue? looks like this saw just got interesting!!!


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## IPLUMB (Mar 8, 2011)

rbiersteker said:


> Yes I have the pro. NO screw. I can see in about an inch or so. No screw to be found. I didnt think it would be too deep in there. So... Whats the order to disassemble to find the issue? looks like this saw just got interesting!!!


 
If you have a MS260 it has a non adjustable oiler. If you have the Pro 260 it will have the comp. release on top.


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## rbiersteker (Mar 8, 2011)

It is the pro. Has Comp release and the Ematic oiler.


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## IPLUMB (Mar 8, 2011)

rbiersteker said:


> It is the pro. Has Comp release and the Ematic oiler.


 
Sweet nice saw. I think the oiler adjuster is under the bar? :taped:


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## rbiersteker (Mar 8, 2011)

Ya, love the saw. Came with a 20" bar. Put a new chain on it. Pulls nice thru the little bit of maple I've tried so far. Now I just have to figure out how to rip it apart. There is no oil adj screw on it. The hole is there, but no screw.


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## cuttingintime (Mar 8, 2011)

If I might suggest take the bar off. Start saw, check make sure you have oil coming out of the oil journal.


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 8, 2011)

*Clean It First!*



cuttingintime said:


> If I might suggest take the bar off. Start saw, check make sure you have oil coming out of the oil journal.


+1. Excellent advice. If that journal is jammed up, nothing else will work. You don't even have to start the saw. Use a brad awl to be sure it's clean, or better yet, brush the whole area with a toothbrush dipped in fuel. Wipe clean.

I have a feeling that's all you need to do. Grime can choke a horse.


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## rbiersteker (Mar 8, 2011)

cuttingintime said:


> If I might suggest take the bar off. Start saw, check make sure you have oil coming out of the oil journal.


 
Will do Cuttingintime! Good idea. I am missing the screw (at least) regardless of whether not it is oiling. So I think I need to tear the thing apart to see what needs to happen to repair it. I am still hoping someone will help out with the order of operations to get to the oil pump.


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 8, 2011)

rbiersteker said:


> Will do Cuttingintime! Good idea. I am missing the screw (at least) regardless of whether not it is oiling. So I think I need to tear the thing apart to see what needs to happen to repair it. I am still hoping someone will help out with the order of operations to get to the oil pump.



Please read my post above first before tearing anything apart. We crossed in transmittal time.


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## rbiersteker (Mar 8, 2011)

Tanks for all the ideas guys! But what about the missing screw?????


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## abikerboy (Mar 8, 2011)

I don't know for sure, but is there any way that somebody could have replaced the pump with the non-adjustable non-pro version? I don't know if it is even possible, but hopefully someone who knows this will answer.


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## rbiersteker (Mar 8, 2011)

abikerboy said:


> I don't know for sure, but is there any way that somebody could have replaced the pump with the non-adjustable non-pro version? I don't know if it is even possible, but hopefully someone who knows this will answer.


 
I am wondering if it could have just came loose? Sounds unlikely, I guess I'm just looking for an easy fix!!!


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## rbiersteker (Mar 8, 2011)

abikerboy said:


> I don't know for sure, but is there any way that somebody could have replaced the pump with the non-adjustable non-pro version? I don't know if it is even possible, but hopefully someone who knows this will answer.


 
What would I look for to check for this??


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 8, 2011)

rbiersteker said:


> What would I look for to check for this??


Try posting a Pic of the saw and the missing screw that you think should be there.

Also, look for Internet PDFs of parts diagrams and consider calling dealers who sell the saw. Many are very cooperative, even if you failed to buy the saw from them.

At last resort, read my post that advises you on how to clean the grime that may be blocking the oil flow.


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## rbiersteker (Mar 8, 2011)

Wood Doctor said:


> Try posting a Pic of the saw and the missing screw that you think should be there.
> 
> Also, look for Internet PDFs of parts diagrams and consider calling dealers who sell the saw. Many are very cooperative, even if you failed to buy the saw from them.
> 
> At last resort, read my post that advises you on how to clean the grime that may be blocking the oil flow.


 
Will do! I will definetly try cleaning things up. Although the journal "looks" clean!! 

Thanks again. Everyones help is greatly appreciated.


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## rbiersteker (Mar 8, 2011)

*Pics of the saw in question.*

Here are some pics of the MS 260Pro. I only removed the outside cover, bar and chain and the thin brass shield that was between the bar and mount.

View attachment 175433
View attachment 175434




View attachment 175435
View attachment 175433





View attachment 175434
View attachment 175435


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## rbiersteker (Mar 8, 2011)

*Further pics of the saw in question*

I couldnt resist. I had to open it up!! Here is a pic of the oiler. in the close up you can see the tip of a torx screwdriver inserted thru the oiler adjustment hole. Somethings not right here!!!!! Any ideas?


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## rbiersteker (Mar 8, 2011)

Ok, this looks like it is more likely the right unit. If so, what is the other part in the pic? And why the heck would this saw, which seems fairly lightly used, have this different oil pump?


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## bcorradi (Mar 9, 2011)

Yeah yours is definately the non adjustable type. Your oiler is driven by the metal drive worm that you see on your crank that is inside the oiler. Whenever the crank is turning (when it is more or less running) your oiler is pumping oil. 

That is an adjustable oiler along with the worm and drive tang in the other picture you posted. The adjustable oiler only outputs oil at idle and requires a different clutch drum than the one you have that has a slot in it. The metal tang on the plastic worm is what drives the oiler and this fits in the clutch drum slot. If you want to convert to an adjustable oiler it requires a few more pieces than what is in the picture. In addition to the adjustable oiler, hose, drive worm and tag pictured you will also need the following: seal washer (part # 0000 958 1234, carrier 1121 647 3100, and clutch drum kit 1121 007 1037). The clutch drum kit I listed is a .325 7t rim style kit. 

Yours has a decompression button on top of the cylinder? It is strange that if it is indeed a pro like you stated that it would have been converted to a non adj. oiler. It may have also made a canadian saw where they have different MS260 models. I believe they just sell an MS260 and an MS260 arctic and I'm not sure if the non arctic has the decomp or not.


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## rbiersteker (Mar 9, 2011)

Thanks!!! Ill look into those parts. Does the adjustable oiler put out more oil? Can the non adjustable oiler handle a 20" bar & chain?

It does say MS260-z on it as well.


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## bcorradi (Mar 9, 2011)

I can't remember off hand if the adjustable oiler puts out more oil, but I doubt it actually. The non adjustable oiler should be plenty adequate to run your 20" bar and chain. I guess I didn't realize till now that you were in canada. I have never heard of a 260-Z model.


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## rbiersteker (Mar 9, 2011)

I just got a price $155 CAD for a adjustable oiler conversion kit from the local dealer. Does that sound reasonable? I've seen them cheaper on ebay. 

And by the way, the clutch comes off real easy with a small electric or air impact driver instead of putting rope in the cylinder! Just another option.


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 9, 2011)

*Thin the Bar Oil a Little*



rbiersteker said:


> I just got a price $155 CAD for a adjustable oiler conversion kit from the local dealer. Does that sound reasonable? I've seen them cheaper on ebay.
> 
> And by the way, the clutch comes off real easy with a small electric or air impact driver instead of putting rope in the cylinder! Just another option.


It is so seldom that I have ever had to adjust the bar oiler on any saw that I find this whole thread a little strange. Is it just me?

Hey, "rbiersteker", please do me a favor. You live in Canada where it is really cold, so try this. Add 1/4 cup of fuel to your bar oil tank and shake the saw a little. Then run the saw for awhile. See what happens.

I bet the bar oils up very nicely, and I just saved you a bunch of dough. In the summer you can run straight bar oil. In the winter, thin it a little like I just recommended.


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## rbiersteker (Mar 9, 2011)

Wood Doctor said:


> It is so seldom that I have ever had to adjust the bar oiler on any saw that I find this whole thread a little strange. Is it just me?
> 
> Hey, "rbiersteker", please do me a favor. You live in Canada where it is really cold, so try this. Add 1/4 cup of fuel to your bar oil tank and shake the saw a little. Then run the saw for awhile. See what happens.
> 
> ...



I guess the main reason I am I
nterested in the adj oiler is because the saw is suposed to have it. It was 37 F here when I was using the saw, the Stihl Bioplus oil is supposed to be fine in colder temps then that. Ill give your idea a try though.


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## Wood Doctor (Mar 9, 2011)

rbiersteker said:


> I guess the main reason I am interested in the adjustable oiler is because the saw is supposed to have it. It was 37 F here when I was using the saw; the Stihl Bioplus oil is supposed to be fine in colder temps than that. I'll give your idea a try though.


The fuel additive to the bar oil will help thin out whatever is clogging the oiler. Dimes to donuts it will work. You have a simple blockage. Find it or flush it. I just told you how to flush it. The MS 260 is a fabulous chainsaw.


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## barnyardman (Mar 10, 2011)

When the impact puts the end of the crankshaft in your hand it won't be a good idea any more.


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## rbiersteker (Mar 10, 2011)

barnyardman said:


> When the impact puts the end of the crankshaft in your hand it won't be a good idea any more.


 No it wouldn't! 

I got the oil going! Wasn't blocked in the tank or journal! The groove in the bar was packed with sawdust. I put a new chain on when I bought it, but didn't clean the groove out. Thanks for the help guys. I'll be much better prepared if other problems show up down the road.


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## rbiersteker (Mar 22, 2011)

*Still having oiler problems*

Ok, without the bar on oil runs from the journal when I start the powerhead. The bar is clean and the oil hole is clear. The chain is not getting much oil. When I finish a tank of fuel most of the oil is gone. No oil sprays off the chain when running. In fact I think I have seen smoke come off the chain and the wood is not scorched..... Is it possible that the non adjust oiler doesn't put enough oil out for a 20" bar??? I need to figure this out. I have a fair amount of wood to cut this weekend. Any other ideas???


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## MrJimH (Mar 11, 2013)

If oil is coming out with the bar off, then the oiler is working.

20" bar should be getting enough oil.

That leaves bar & chain.

Are you sure this is a Stihl bar? Chain?

Had a customer with the same problem, he had bought a non-Stihl bar chain combo that was suppose to fit, the bar nuts did, but the oil channel on the bar did not match the oil hole of the saw.


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## Isna (Mar 11, 2013)

Here, in France, all ms260 have adjustable oilers. My parents have a 026 bought in Canada and it had the same oiler as yours. They asked me to check it out since it was leaking oil at idle and not oiling right when running. I don't know what was the problem was but I solved it by fitting in an adjustable oiler I had lying around (I had already changed the clutch drum for a European one, designed for an adjustable oiler).


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## Nosmo (Mar 11, 2013)

*Old Thread*



MrJimH said:


> If oil is coming out with the bar off, then the oiler is working.
> 
> 20" bar should be getting enough oil.
> 
> ...


____________________________________________________________________________________

He probably has solved the problem he was having -- his last post was in March 2-years ago.

Nosmo


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