# stihl 066 rebuild. W/pictures



## matt9923 (Feb 25, 2010)

Got this saw for another project. Its goign to be on the shelf for a few until the 046 is done. Got it from a member here, hope they chime in soon. They didn't even have any posts but sent me a lot of pictures and made me feel comfortable sending the money. They packed it very well, it was like Christmas all over again! Goes to show there are good people out there! 

Its already torn down and cleaned up thanks to them!! :yourock:

Took a couple pictures. I think ill leave it up to AS, shoudl this be a full rebuild? blast it and powder it? Lots of work but I'm sure it would be worth it. I Am also debating if I want to mill with it....


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## matt9923 (Feb 25, 2010)




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## oscar4883 (Feb 25, 2010)

I say go with a full mechanical re-build. Bearings, seals, p/c?, etc. Of the few saws I have re-built I only painted my first one. It was so pretty I didn't want to use it, and my paint work doesn't hold a candle to the work you do.


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## cw_wright (Feb 25, 2010)

glad you liked it!! it was an ease to do business with you!  


FYI, i priced a p/c kit and a seals and gasket kit before i sold the saw to you...i think he priced it to me for around $325 if i remember right. he gives GREAT deals. not sure what parts cost where you are but if that helps, let me know! don't quote me on that price.... i may be wrong


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## matt9923 (Feb 25, 2010)

oscar4883 said:


> I say go with a full mechanical re-build. Bearings, seals, p/c?, etc. Of the few saws I have re-built I only painted my first one. It was so pretty I didn't want to use it, and my paint work doesn't hold a candle to the work you do.



Thanks 

Definitely is getting full mechanical, crank bearings, seals etc... 

here is the story on the P&C 

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=126981


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## cw_wright (Feb 25, 2010)

also, what'd you think of that piston?!?! crazy sh*t, huh?!


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## matt9923 (Feb 25, 2010)

cw_wright said:


> glad you liked it!! it was an ease to do business with you!
> 
> 
> FYI, i priced a p/c kit and a seals and gasket kit before i sold the saw to you...i think he priced it to me for around $325 if i remember right. he gives GREAT deals. not sure what parts cost where you are but if that helps, let me know! don't quote me on that price.... i may be wrong



You da man!
Ya an oem P&C aint cheep $350 around. Baileys seal kits look good and are 1/2 price. I think I have a lead on another cylinder if it cleans up. And it will probably get a Meteor form Baileys.


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## matt9923 (Feb 25, 2010)

cw_wright said:


> also, what'd you think of that piston?!?! crazy sh*t, huh?!



Ya, I'm goign to have to look at it really good in the light and see what let lose. I might send it to Brad and see if he can clean it up and run it. That would be pretty cool to see.


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## cw_wright (Feb 25, 2010)

---i just wanted to make it clear to everyone(matt, you already know this) it was NOT me that caused this. i purchased the saw along with a running 660 in the non-working condition...


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## cw_wright (Feb 25, 2010)

matt9923 said:


> Ya, I'm goign to have to look at it really good in the light and see what let lose. I might send it to Brad and see if he can clean it up and run it. That would be pretty cool to see.




hell, you shoulda said something! lol. he lives about 45 mins. from me. i live east of cincinnati, he lives north. coulda saved you some time! can't wait to see what you do with it, though


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## matt9923 (Feb 25, 2010)

cw_wright said:


> hell, you shoulda said something! lol. he lives about 45 mins. from me. i live east of cincinnati, he lives north. coulda saved you some time! can't wait to see what you do with it, though



I had no clue any of these nuts would ever want to run it again LOL

Shipping wont be much for a jug.


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## cw_wright (Feb 25, 2010)

yeah...who woulda thunk it, huh?? lol!


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## caotropheus (Feb 25, 2010)

matt9923 said:


>



That's what I call a nice display of chainsaw gut. Matt, just like in the 046 thread :yourock:


Leave the paint and rebuild.


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## matt9923 (Jul 2, 2010)

anyone got a decent 066 P&C? This saw sat in the box long enough.


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## mtngun (Jul 2, 2010)

matt9923 said:


> anyone got a decent 066 piston?


Meteor ?

Is your jug good ?


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## TRI955 (Jul 2, 2010)

It deserves fresh paint, why not do it? If your gonna do it, do it right!


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## matt9923 (Jul 2, 2010)

mtngun said:


> Meteor ?
> 
> Is your jug good ?



i meant to say cylinder.... ill probably get a meteor from baileys unless someone has both.


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## matt9923 (Jul 2, 2010)

TRI955 said:


> It deserves fresh paint, why not do it? If your gonna do it, do it right!



:agree2:


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## mtngun (Jul 2, 2010)

matt9923 said:


> i meant to say cylinder.... ill probably get a meteor from baileys unless someone has both.


They show up on the bay from time to time, usually go for about $50 or more.

By the time you shell out $50 for a jug and $40 for a Meteor, you might as well get a Bailey's BB kit instead. The usual BB disclaimer applies -- inspect the upper bore very, very carefully before installing. If you get one with a good bore, they do make good power.

Or just make me an offer for your box of parts.


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## Zombiechopper (Jul 3, 2010)

I bought a 460 BB recently. It looked tip top. Plating went all the way. very little casting flash. ports beveled nice. Smaller combustion chamber than the oem Mahle. No complaints. Makes noticeably more power


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## SkippyKtm (Jul 3, 2010)

:agree2: I'll second that, the 2 066 BB and the Dolmar 84cc BB Cylinders have recently been great quality. Although on the pistons, its best to use the OEM, original (assuming its still good) wrist pin. The bevels ground onto the aftermarket pin ends are way too tapered and can wedge themselves past the circlips (OEM circlips too!) jamming itself into the transfer port, causing a seizure, from both me and the saw, LOL. :crazy1:


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## matt9923 (Jul 3, 2010)

SkippyKtm said:


> :agree2: I'll second that, the 2 066 BB and the Dolmar 84cc BB Cylinders have recently been great quality. Although on the pistons, its best to use the OEM, original (assuming its still good) wrist pin. The bevels ground onto the aftermarket pin ends are way too tapered and can wedge themselves past the circlips (OEM circlips too!) jamming itself into the transfer port, causing a seizure, from both me and the saw, LOL. :crazy1:



thanks for the replies. I may try the baileys kit but figured id see if anyone had one to get rid of. I gotta check the funds as well i may have to sell this saw down the road.


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## matt9923 (Aug 10, 2010)

*Finnaly!!!*

Ok so i have some time this week to get going on this saw. I took a bunch of pictures. 

Ill order a baileys BB kit tonight. I'm most likely going to sell this saw when I'm done due to the need for money. Not sure if i should have it ported? 

The saw is getting full mechanical and fresh powder coat, plastics will also be freshened up. 

flywheel and clutch removed 






















tap seal in a bit and used the lesli to pull it, worked perfect for the clutch side. Flywheel size I broke the ground down tooth... i pulled it after i split the case.


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## matt9923 (Aug 10, 2010)

Splitting case.
















use block with crank cutout to press crank out. 







pressed out clutch side bearing with press and socket.
Both case halves striped of all hardware and bushings. 






Covered the priceless metal decal and chain break decal. Ill repaint the black line then clear coat it or polish it, not sure yet. 






covered the in beded decals or whatever you want to call them.


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## matt9923 (Aug 10, 2010)

Removed origonal shop tag and magnum sticker 






Bucket O parts, crankcase halves, starter cover, various other dirty parts.
Hot water and purple power long soak. Best solution iv found, better then dishwasher/ partswahser to.


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## matt9923 (Aug 10, 2010)

Ill hopefully sandblast everything tomorrow and maybe start powdering. 

Plastics will get a light blasting as well unless i find a better way like polishing.


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## PA Plumber (Aug 10, 2010)

Great thread.
Just logging on to watch.


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## mtngun (Aug 10, 2010)

matt9923 said:


> I'm most likely going to sell this saw when I'm done due to the need for money. Not sure if i should have it ported?


The BB comes with pretty aggressive -- and decently finished -- porting, only small gains to be found with conventional woods port techniques. I just WP'd my own BB, but I wouldn't _*pay*_ someone to do it. 

Thanks for the pics.  Let's see if it'll let me rep you.


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## fatjoe (Aug 10, 2010)

Looks good!! Keep the pics coming!!!


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## matt9923 (Aug 10, 2010)

mtngun said:


> The BB comes with pretty aggressive -- and decently finished -- porting, only small gains to be found with conventional woods port techniques. I just WP'd my own BB, but I wouldn't _*pay*_ someone to do it.
> 
> Thanks for the pics.  Let's see if it'll let me rep you.



good info, i guess i wont have it ported. Porting just is int my game i'm heavy handed and am better of staying away from it. 

Ill have to start filling my baileys cart.


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## mdavlee (Aug 10, 2010)

Non ported saws seem to sell easier than ported saws.


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## Rookie1 (Aug 10, 2010)

Nice job Matt. You always do good pictorals.


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## caotropheus (Aug 10, 2010)

Going well Matt, really well indeed. 

Why should you invest so much effort and invest on a BB kit if you intend to sell the saw later on? 

I say keep the saw. You'll see money will show up later.


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## matt9923 (Aug 11, 2010)

Got a good amount done today. 

cleaned parts 











prep for blasting











Ready to go


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## matt9923 (Aug 11, 2010)

And then the camera dies... i didn't completely strip the cases like last time, way to much time for no reason. Powder can cover over old clean powder. I got all the lose stuff and then some, only the solid stuff stayed. 

Ready to powder, vice hold the oven trays, best option iv found so far. Idk why i used saw horses with a table that has legs?  to many fumes...






clutch side











Prepping the cases for paint sucks, hardest and most boring par of saw rebuilding. 

flywheel side i hit this twice since it didn't cover great the first time, key is to let it flow out for around 10min the second time or you will have a duller finish witch looks fine if you do it to both sides. 

done


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## matt9923 (Aug 11, 2010)

you can see some flaws in the magnesium near the cylinder base. 











Starter cover
















Sandblasted these parts lightly then wet sanded with 600. Get all the baked on pine sap and crap off the handle.


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## ewoolsey (Aug 11, 2010)

i hope your saw when back together will run longer than my dads , he didnt paint it , he over hauled the 066 , i dropped only 2 trees with it's ,the piston is scored all ready dont know why , he said he's done with it, he cut a lot of tree's over the years with it. i dont know what we will do with it ?


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## matt9923 (Aug 11, 2010)

ewoolsey said:


> i hope your saw when back together will run longer than my dads , he didnt paint it , he over hauled the 066 , i dropped only 2 trees with it's ,the piston is scored all ready dont know why , he said he's done with it, he cut a lot of tree's over the years with it. i dont know what we will do with it ?



did you have oil in the gas? let me know what you want for it in a pm.


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## ewoolsey (Aug 11, 2010)

i just knew someone would ask that, yes just mixed up a new 2 gal. with the stihl synthetic oil it was the first time i used it .


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## matt9923 (Aug 11, 2010)

ewoolsey said:


> i just knew someone would ask that, yes just mixed up a new 2 gal. with the stihl synthetic oil it was the first time i used it .



was it running lean? did you tune it after rebuild?


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## Tzed250 (Aug 11, 2010)

.


Very nice work Matt!!!


.


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## Anthony_Va. (Aug 11, 2010)

The powdercoat job looks awesome brotha. 

I can't wait to see this one done. The suspense is killing me.


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## matt9923 (Aug 11, 2010)

Thanks!! 

just ordered the BB kit and a bunch of other crap. gotta go to the stealership Saturday and order the rest of the parts. Im sure ill get shafted on the crank bearings. The old ones are fine but i wouldnt feel right... 

Ill probably order a wrist pin and c clips (as suggested by a member) form stihl but will the stock one fit the BB just a little shorter rite? 

Also i'm debating what to do with the 1/2 wrap. There are some scratches on the black but idk how to get the grip off and be able to reuse it. i have to buy 16' of it to get any...


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## ewoolsey (Aug 11, 2010)

matt9923 said:


> was it running lean? did you tune it after rebuild?


 yes, my dad did, he ran saws most of his live ,also ran a saw shop for over 10 years, i dont know what happen to the saw. it sucks .


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## matt9923 (Aug 11, 2010)

ewoolsey said:


> yes, my dad did, he ran saws most of his live ,also ran a saw shop for over 10 years, i dont know what happen to the saw. it sucks .



not sure, that sucks hope i have better luck.


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## matt9923 (Aug 11, 2010)

caotropheus said:


> Going well Matt, really well indeed.
> 
> Why should you invest so much effort and invest on a BB kit if you intend to sell the saw later on?
> 
> I say keep the saw. You'll see money will show up later.



I'm not going to want to sell it but i need the money these days. I could probably sell the 660 and make more but ill get killed since i payed 1200 for it... chances are ill keep it until a friend needs it for a fair price.


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## matt9923 (Aug 15, 2010)

Got my baileys order yesterday. that was pretty fast! 

Cylinder kit looks pretty good. little wobbly around the ports but it should work fine. 


















Also got to the Stihl dealer yesterday and order up my parts ill post the sheet with prices for reference.


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## matt9923 (Aug 15, 2010)

Crank bearings

6203 flywheel side- 9503 003 0070 
Correct part#-9503 003 6676 $27.65

Clutch side- 9523 003 4555 $46.85

De-comp valve- 1128 020 9400 $17.94	

1120/20 av mount- 1122 790 9920 $17.55

Chain catch- 1122 656 7700 $2.97
M5x20- 9022 341 1019 $1.28

Fuel line- 1124 358 7700 $12.55

Impulse- 1127 141 8600 $5.96

Piston Pin- 1122 034 1500 $17.20

Snap ring X2- 9463 650 1200 $.65

Pump plug-  1125 647 7002 $.45

Clutch Spring X3- 0000 997 0911 $2.87

Nameplate- 0000 967 2035 $2.45

Mag Plate- 0000 967 1593 $1.85

Spark plug x2 $3.75

046 clutch side 
crank seal- 9640 003 1600 $13.86


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## Evan (Aug 15, 2010)

matt
awesome build. looks like its all comeing together
cant wait to see the finished build


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## wigglesworth (Aug 15, 2010)

matt9923 said:


> Crank bearings
> 
> 6203 flywheel side- 9503 003 0070
> Correct part#-9503 003 6676 $46.85
> ...



Good lord Matt....they really gig ya on them bearing prices. 

The build up is looking good BTW. I need me an 066/660


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## matt9923 (Aug 15, 2010)

wigglesworth said:


> Good lord Matt....they really gig ya on them bearing prices.
> 
> The build up is looking good BTW. I need me an 066/660



i ####ed up those #s.... Flywheel side was $27.65
clutch side $46.85 

Yes i got shafted on them but i don't know where to get them anywhere else. 

If i decide to sell it ill pm you. Not even sure what an 066 is worth these days. 

And Thank you


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## Evan (Aug 15, 2010)

id say yours will be worth 650ish 700


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## wigglesworth (Aug 15, 2010)

matt9923 said:


> i ####ed up those #s.... Flywheel side was $27.65
> clutch side $46.85
> 
> Yes i got shafted on them but i don't know where to get them anywhere else.
> ...



Shoot, I can barely afford lunch at the moment. Were gearing up for our #3 addition to the family. She should be here in a week or so. Anyways thanks for the offer. 

BTW, that 046 seeing any wood lately?


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## mtngun (Aug 15, 2010)

matt9923 said:


> i ####ed up those #s.... Flywheel side was $27.65
> clutch side $46.85
> 
> Yes i got shafted on them but i don't know where to get them anywhere else.


The flywheel side is generic, you can get them online or at a local bearing supply for $2 - $10. Just make sure to get one with a C3 rating.

Clutch side is available only from Stihl.


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## K7NUT (Aug 15, 2010)

Evan said:


> matt
> awesome build. looks like its all comeing together
> cant wait to see the finished build



Howdy Evan, I can't wait to see and hear how it does!?
I picked up an 066 from another member here and it runs great, but my 064 will out do it hands down! Now I don't know is my 064 was pumped up, or if the 066 is getting tired?
I just think someday I may want to re-build the 066 like Matt here...however, I don't have a sand blaster or an airless painter?
Awesome job Matt, keep the pic's coming!


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## Evan (Aug 15, 2010)

you dont need to paint anything.

i clean the plastic up on mines and leave the paint how it was. plastic makes a huge improvment
from the bottom of my 066





then spitshinned and cleared plastic









matt is realyu doing a heck of good job with his. i dont have the patience for the kinda restoration


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## gemniii (Aug 15, 2010)

NICE rebuild thread.

one off topic question - 
If you were rebuilding it for yourself would you go with stock paint scheme or custom?


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## matt9923 (Aug 15, 2010)

wigglesworth said:


> Shoot, I can barely afford lunch at the moment. Were gearing up for our #3 addition to the family. She should be here in a week or so. Anyways thanks for the offer.
> 
> BTW, that 046 seeing any wood lately?



Well congratulations. I here you on the money situation i hate having to sell any of my Eq but you gotta do what you gotta do. I'm enjoying the rebuild tho. 



gemniii said:


> NICE rebuild thread.
> 
> one off topic question -
> If you were rebuilding it for yourself would you go with stock paint scheme or custom?



Probably stock like my 046. I could make a saw a crazy color.... maybe someday not sure what color tho. Titanium blue or something might look cool.


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## Meadow Beaver (Aug 15, 2010)

Evan said:


> id say yours will be worth 650ish 700



Anything is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it.


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## matt9923 (Aug 15, 2010)

Evan said:


> you dont need to paint anything.
> 
> i clean the plastic up on mines and leave the paint how it was. plastic makes a huge improvment
> from the bottom of my 066
> ...



If i could get my plastics that nice I would be amazed. Is it just clear coated? what type of sandpaper. I sandblasted original finish off the used 600 wet.


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## matt9923 (Aug 15, 2010)

K7NUT said:


> Howdy Evan, I can't wait to see and hear how it does!?
> I picked up an 066 from another member here and it runs great, but my 064 will out do it hands down! Now I don't know is my 064 was pumped up, or if the 066 is getting tired?
> I just think someday I may want to re-build the 066 like Matt here...however, I don't have a sand blaster or an airless painter?
> Awesome job Matt, keep the pic's coming!



My sandblaster is a poor mans blaster the thread is floating around somewhere ill get the link. Cost $100. I'm pretty happy with it!


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## matt9923 (Aug 15, 2010)

Poor Mans Sandblaster


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## Meadow Beaver (Aug 15, 2010)

The first thing I noticed about the new 066bb you've got is the combustion chamber is smaller with a wider squish band.


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## Evan (Aug 16, 2010)

i tthink i just used 800 or 1000 auto paper and wet sanded it enough to rough the surface then 3 coats of krylon clear. its actualy holding up realy well. kinda coverd in sap and dust now but still looks good





i have no plans to clean it this season, i just blow it off with the compressor clean the filter then were good to go again


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## matt9923 (Aug 29, 2010)

Finally got some more work done on the saw yesterday. Would have gotten more done but didn't have a piston bearing :bang: and started working on other things but i got a good amount done. 

Heated the cases to 300 for 20 min and put the bearings in. then pulled the crank to clutch side and then flywheel side on. Everything went smooth.


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## matt9923 (Aug 29, 2010)

Got the crank seals in as well, rebuilt the carb and cleaned up the clutch and put new springs on. 






Flywheel on and coil, put all the av mmounts on and put the starter back together.

What kind of paint could i use to paint the stihl name and line?


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## Stihl-Pioneer (Aug 29, 2010)

Matt,
Is it me or is that flywheel missing a few fins?
If they are missing, isn't that going to effect the balance?


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## Saw Dr. (Aug 29, 2010)

Use black sharpie marker for the Stihl logo and line. Easy to touch up, and looks great. Easy to get a nice edge on it also.


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## PA Plumber (Aug 29, 2010)

Stihl-Pioneer said:


> Matt,
> Is it me or is that flywheel missing a few fins?
> If they are missing, isn't that going to effect the balance?



I've run a couple of plastic flywheel finned 660s over the years that were missing fins.

Didn't seem to bother the saw at all.


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## matt9923 (Aug 29, 2010)

Stihl-Pioneer said:


> Matt,
> Is it me or is that flywheel missing a few fins?
> If they are missing, isn't that going to effect the balance?



it don't make much difference, if I come by another one ill get it.


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## bayard (Sep 11, 2010)

*064*

matt, i was reading your post on the 064,looks great.is there a way to get the clutch side bearing from a good parts house? also can you buy sthil paint in a can or spray.thanks kenny


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## frogy (Sep 11, 2010)

*Rebuild*

Fellows, Thinking of putting a Bailey's BB kit in a MS66 and would like to know if there was any mods needed or if it just bolted right up, also why did you not use the pin and clips that came with the kit?


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## USMC0802 (Sep 11, 2010)

Looks great. The paint looks amazing. Can't wait to see how it looks all back together.


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## chopperfreak2k1 (Sep 12, 2010)

USMC0802 said:


> Looks great. The paint looks amazing. Can't wait to see how it looks all back together.



indeed! saw looks awesome so far Matt. can't wait to see more!


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## mtngun (Sep 12, 2010)

bayard said:


> is there a way to get the clutch side bearing from a good parts house?


Not that I know of. The flywheel side bearing is generic, the clutch side bearing is proprietary.


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## matt9923 (Sep 12, 2010)

frogy said:


> Fellows, Thinking of putting a Bailey's BB kit in a MS66 and would like to know if there was any mods needed or if it just bolted right up, also why did you not use the pin and clips that came with the kit?



MS660? should fit baileys has a list of models it will fit. 

The pin an clips were fine but if herd some of them have taper and could cause problems so i ordered stihl ones. 


Iv been so busy haven't touched the saw. I got the tank and handle on that's about it and the p&c is kinda on. Ill get pictures when i get back to it.


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## frogy (Sep 12, 2010)

*Pins & clips*

Thx Matt; I'll have to take and mic them.


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## matt9923 (Dec 25, 2010)

Been a while, got a few small things done today. 
Got the chain break mec back together and clutch on. Also re-sanded the air filter cover and clear coated it. kept it in the oven at 170 came out fairly well probably work better if i wet sanded in between but it is a work saw and just wanted to make it a bit better. 

I forgot how to post pictures comp has been a rare thing lately. :bang:


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## matt9923 (Dec 25, 2010)

I owe Evan a huge thanks he did my muffler for me. did a great job to!! 

im guna give it a fresh coat of paint while im at it


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## fidiro (Dec 25, 2010)

You want to practice some more sandblasting and painting a case on a 440? I'll pay shipping to and from.:hmm3grin2orange:

Hope to do something with my 440 this spring but not to this extent.

Your saw is looking great. Thanks for the pics to show your work.


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## matt9923 (Dec 25, 2010)

fidiro said:


> You want to practice some more sandblasting and painting a case on a 440? I'll pay shipping to and from.:hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> Hope to do something with my 440 this spring but not to this extent.
> 
> Your saw is looking great. Thanks for the pics to show your work.



If i only had that much free time, i would consider it for a fair price. 

Guna have to make a thread and post pictures


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## matt9923 (Dec 26, 2010)

Got alot done on the saw today. cleaned up all the plastics except the tank handle. Sandblast first, then 320 wet sand, 5min in oven at 175, fisrt coat 5 min in oven, second coat 5 in oven, wetsand 600, 1 or 2 more coats final in oven for 10 min. Works great and looks good. 
If you don't 600 wet sand the finish is rougher but still good 
i also wet-sanded the filter ocver


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## matt9923 (Dec 26, 2010)

debating painting handle probably will any ideas on getting grip off? if i can ill powder coat it if not ill rattle can it. 






muffler came out great


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## matt9923 (Dec 26, 2010)

used plastic weld to fix this, if i find a good one ill buy it? came out strong


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## matt9923 (Dec 26, 2010)

just about done needs grommet for carb and i need to blast and powder bar cover


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## fidiro (Dec 26, 2010)

To get the grip off, do you think you can sneak in the wd40 straw tube that comes with the can and squirt some in. Work it to the middle from both ends and slide it off. 

To reinstall I don't know if hair spray or spray adhesive on the tube and inside the grip would work.

BTW, it looks great with the bar the way it is if you decide not to pull grip off. A little touch up with the rattle can and it will look just fine to me.


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## matt9923 (Dec 26, 2010)

fidiro said:


> To get the grip off, do you think you can sneak in the wd40 straw tube that comes with the can and squirt some in. Work it to the middle from both ends and slide it off.
> 
> To reinstall I don't know if hair spray or spray adhesive on the tube and inside the grip would work.



that's what i was thinking then just glue it back on


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## matt9923 (Dec 26, 2010)

I am pretty happy with it came out pretty dam good i must say ill run it tomorrow. Snows coming down guna be a long nite. 

I need big dogs, slide plate, grommet and possibly a carb housing if anyone has these leme know, theirs probably a few more things I'm forgetting.

next saw ill clena up the tank handle but its guna be a work saw...


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## fidiro (Dec 26, 2010)

Snow has been coming down since about 1pm. there is about 8-10 so far.

If you really wanted to get the grip off a little bit of compressed air with oil combo on the ends will probably loosen up the grip enough to remove. Don't know if too much pressure of air will rip apart the grip though.


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## matt9923 (Dec 27, 2010)

fidiro said:


> Snow has been coming down since about 1pm. there is about 8-10 so far.
> 
> If you really wanted to get the grip off a little bit of compressed air with oil combo on the ends will probably loosen up the grip enough to remove. Don't know if too much pressure of air will rip apart the grip though.



tried that but it was a no go. Ill figure something out id cut it off but i cant get any form dealer id have to buy 16ft of grip


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## jrjuday (Dec 28, 2010)

Heat the handle in VERY HOT water (bathtub or big sink), the hotter the better. Tube should slide off fairly easy. Heat rubber tube, only, to install.


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## MS390 (Apr 17, 2011)

do you got a pic off the tool that you pulled the case together with??

very cool build matt you rock


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## matt9923 (Apr 18, 2011)

Just use a sleeve or washers with the clutch spider to pull the crank to the clutch-side. then just evenly bolt the flywheel side on, you can also use the same washer method on this side. just got slow and keep everything even.


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## MS390 (Apr 19, 2011)

matt9923 said:


> Just use a sleeve or washers with the clutch spider to pull the crank to the clutch-side. then just evenly bolt the flywheel side on, you can also use the same washer method on this side. just got slow and keep everything even.


 
sorry,I don´t undestand:confused2:


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## MS390 (Apr 21, 2011)

MS390 said:


> sorry,I don´t undestand:confused2:


 
ahhh now i get it I must have been drinking to much off the toilet:msp_thumbup:


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