# Time to venture into milling



## blsnelling (Mar 12, 2010)

This thread may likely start a new addiction for me, lol. I've got a beautiful 11' long 18-20" diamter Walnut log here that I want to mill into shelf boards. There's also a nice, larger diameter hard Maple log I can get my hands on.

Basically I'm looking for advise on what to buy. The power head will be a 084. I currently have 36", 50", and 72" bars in that mount. I'll buy another if need be. So what size mill should I buy? I've been looking at the Alaskan 36" mill, but considered getting one larger. I just don't want to buy too large or too small of a mill. What would you advise?

Is there anything else I'll need to purchase besides milling chain?

Yes, I'm a complete newbie in this department. And yes, you're welcome to tell me to go use the search function, lol


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## mtngun (Mar 12, 2010)

Brad, I'm glad you are getting into milling. 

Bear in mind that the clamps and nose take up 4" - 6" of space on a conventional Alaskan mill, so a 36" bar with 36" mill can only cut 29" - 30" wide.

In the short run, sounds like a 36" Alaskan with your 36" bar would do the job nicely.

But, if you see bigger trees in your future, plan accordingly. You can always run a 48" mill with a 36" bar, it's just that some of the mill frame will stick out and be a bit of a nuisance.

Not sure if your 084 needs an aux oiler with a 36" bar ? An 066 benefits from an aux oiler, but an 084 may pump enough oil. In any event, you can always add an aux oiler later if you feel the need.

You'll need some sort of guide board. You'll see all kinds of guides being used on this forum. A 2x12, unistrut, ladders, I-joists, etc.. If you already have something suitable laying around, by all means use it, even if it is not perfect. You can always upgrade later.

Lots of threads on milling chain. Bailey's 3/8 milling chain is probably the most popular. Aggiewoodbutcher prefers .325" chain (semi-chisel reground to 10 degrees), claiming it is a wee bit faster. Even cross cut chain can be used for milling if you don't mind a rougher surface.

If you don't already have one, a cant hook or peavy comes in handy for milling.

Please post lots of pictures of your milling adventures.


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## Kicker_92 (Mar 12, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> This thread may likely start a new addiction for me, lol. I've got a beautiful 11' long 18-20" diamter Walnut log here that I want to mill into shelf boards. There's also a nice, larger diameter hard Maple log I can get my hands on.
> 
> Basically I'm looking for advise on what to buy. The power head will be a 084. I currently have 36", 50", and 72" bars in that mount. I'll buy another if need be. So what size mill should I buy? I've been looking at the Alaskan 36" mill, but considered getting one larger. I just don't want to buy too large or too small of a mill. What would you advise?
> 
> ...




Keep in mind that if you go with the Grandberg MKIII, the rails can be purchased seperatly. So you could start with the 36" model (around 30" of cut), and get the longer rails if you end up with a big project.

What are your plans for the 084 powerhead?


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## Homelite (Mar 12, 2010)

Walnut for shelf boards? Must be a nice shelf.


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## blsnelling (Mar 12, 2010)

Kicker_92 said:


> Keep in mind that if you go with the Grandberg MKIII, the rails can be purchased seperatly. So you could start with the 36" model (around 30" of cut), and get the longer rails if you end up with a big project.
> 
> What are your plans for the 084 powerhead?



Very little. I'm going to clean up the windows in the new OEM piston, taking the lip off the bottom of the transfer intake duct, and widening the tranfers. I will not be touching the intake or exhaust ports. I significantly opened up the factory port on the muffler.


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## blsnelling (Mar 12, 2010)

Homelite said:


> Walnut for shelf boards? Must be a nice shelf.



Nice saws and free wood


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## Kicker_92 (Mar 12, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Very little. I'm going to clean up the windows in the new OEM piston, taking the lip off the bottom of the transfer intake duct, and widening the tranfers. I will not be touching the intake or exhaust ports. I significantly opened up the factory port on the muffler.



Something that might help, when I needed a new piston for the MS880, we ended up looking at both the 088 and MS880 pistons. The newer piston has much larger windows in it already. Wish I would taken a photo, but check out both versions at your dealer if they have stock.


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## Can8ianTimber (Mar 12, 2010)

Umm, wow!! Most people don't show up here with 100cc plus saws saying they might want to try this milling thing. Usually it is something like "I have a stihl 360 and I want to slab up a 40" oak, what do you recomend". 

Anyways you have a great start on the average miller. I started with a 066 and I think a 36" mill. I have upsized my rails twice now and it is a fairly painless process so I would not worry about needing longer rails in the future. That way you can put your shorter rails on if you are cutting smaller logs. 

You also don't have to use ripping chain. Some swear by it and some swear it makes little difference. It helps a little but if you just want to get your feet wet use your regular chain, 2x4's screwed to the log and an alaskan mill and see if you like it.


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## BobL (Mar 12, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> This thread may likely start a new addiction for me, lol. I've got a beautiful 11' long 18-20" diamter Walnut log here that I want to mill into shelf boards. There's also a nice, larger diameter hard Maple log I can get my hands on.
> 
> Basically I'm looking for advise on what to buy. The power head will be a 084. I currently have 36", 50", and 72" bars in that mount. I'll buy another if need be. So what size mill should I buy? I've been looking at the Alaskan 36" mill, but considered getting one larger. I just don't want to buy too large or too small of a mill. What would you advise?
> 
> ...



Welcome to the dark side Brad 

Have you read the milling101 sticky?

With an 084 in 20" wood I'd look at flying with a 7 or 8º cutting angle.

Oil flow on the 084 is 10 - 30 ml/min with a 50 ml/min boost which I reckon is a waste of oil because all of that extra oil just comes off at the nose.

Once you have the 36" mill its cost effective to upgrade to a longer mill buy just buying a 20' length of highway sign unistrut, and 20' length of pipe - that way you can cut these to suit exactly what mill rails you want. I have 54" and 64" rails and leave the 64" rails on even using the 42" bar unless I work in dense bush.


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## TraditionalTool (Mar 12, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Nice saws and free wood


That sounds like a great combination! 

You have some free wood, life is good. 

And a premium native hardwood at that. 

Scares me to think if someone like you gets hooked on milling instead of cutting cookies... Not that it should or would effect your cookie habit, just scares me to think of how much usable wood you could get. In fact, why not just do your saw comparisons/demos of milling a slab, kill 2 birds with one stone!  (and end up with more than a cookie)

And having great wood is a plus, walnut is one of my favorites along with cherry and maple. Walnut is the most forgiving, IMO.


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## huskyhank (Mar 12, 2010)

I am very happy with my 36" Alaskan running 32" and 42" bars. I can mill about 23" with the 32 bar and 33" with the 42 bar. I use the smaller bar sometimes because its much easier to handle the whole assembly by myself. Previously I used the mill with a 36" bar but when I retooled I chose 32" and 42" since I use the 32" for general sawing and the 42 bought me some width for milling.

I just bought a 60" bar and think I will buy or build another mill for it. I think anytime I use this I will make it a two man operation.

Since you already have a 36" bar I suggest a 36" mill. You'll be able to cut around 28" wide, which will cover most good sized trees. This combination is comfortable to handle by yourself. If you really like milling you may want something different later, but the best way to make that decision is to get some experience.

If your saw does not have either a real strong auto oiler or a manual oiler that you can pump a lot of oil through, I'd add one on the mill.

I'm using regular chain now. I used to use milling chain but I really don't see a reason to do so. I get smooth finishes that are very acceptable to me. It will all get planed later so the ultimate in fine chainsaw finish just doesn't matter that much. I'd pick whatever cut fastest, kept sharp longest and was readily available.

Welcome to the world of chainsaw milling!


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## Kicker_92 (Mar 12, 2010)

Can8ianTimber said:


> You also don't have to use ripping chain. Some swear by it and some swear it makes little difference.



In the douglas fir and soft maple we cut, I don't find it make much differance in cut speed. It does however make the chain less "grabby", and produce a smoother cut. A bit less vibration too.

We've been using 5° top plate angle for a while now, and like it. Combined with around an 8° raker angle (around 0.040"?) it cut's well in the softwood.


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## gemniii (Mar 12, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> This thread may likely start a new addiction for me, lol. I've got a beautiful 11' long 18-20" diamter Walnut log here that I want to mill into shelf boards. There's also a nice, larger diameter hard Maple log I can get my hands on.


It's about time you made some lumber. Learn to cut trees like a bureaucrat cuts red tape, lengthwise.


blsnelling said:


> Basically I'm looking for advise on what to buy. The power head will be a 084. I currently have 36", 50", and 72" bars in that mount. I'll buy another if need be. So what size mill should I buy? I've been looking at the Alaskan 36" mill, but considered getting one larger. I just don't want to buy too large or too small of a mill. What would you advise?
> 
> Is there anything else I'll need to purchase besides milling chain?


Other things:
You need some rails or boards to "ride" the CSM on. Favorites are AL tube, Unistrut, small AL ladders.

A good chiropractor or something to raise the logs on.

I would also recommend a heavy tarp to collect the chips (don't make sawdust  )

The size of the mill to start with depends on many factors:
Saw - you've got that covered
Max size of tree - If you want to cut some 48" wide planks you'll need a 48" wide mill, but as others have posted it's "upgradeable".
Other limiting factors such as maneuverability.

For instance my basement walk out is a limiting factor for me, it's clumsy with a 36" mill, Stihl 660, and 28" bar. I just bought a 42" bar and anticipate it being even worse.


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## BobL (Mar 12, 2010)

gemniii said:


> For instance my basement walk out is a limiting factor for me, it's clumsy with a 36" mill, Stihl 660, and 28" bar. I just bought a 42" bar and anticipate it being even worse.



Here's how I move my BIL mill around. Stairs, narrow alleys are much less of a problem. Tight turns through doorways etc are easier if is is stood closer to upright before turning.


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## blsnelling (Mar 12, 2010)

Thanks for the tips guys. Sounds like it's a 36" mill. I didn't realize I could make it longer at a later date.

I have read the sticky at the top.

I've got a 3/8 sprocket tip ready to put on the 36" bar. 7-pin, or 8-pin rim on this 084?

I'll be running full synthetic oil at 32:1.

Tuning of the saw will be rich. Do I want any 4-stocking in the cut? I assume I want it where it just barely quits 4-stroking under normal milling load.

I need some of these small wedges to keep the kerf open. Which ones are you using?

I need some better hearing protection. Suggestions? Links?

I'll have to come up with some type of rails. I have a smallish extension ladder that might work well.


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## huskyhank (Mar 12, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Thanks for the tips guys. Sounds like it's a 36" mill. I didn't realize I could make it longer at a later date.
> 
> I have read the sticky at the top.
> 
> ...



I'd start with a 7 pin and get a feel for it. Softer/smaller wood will be fine with an 8.

I run my 2100 where it just stops or almost stops 4 stroking.

Make some wedges from hardwood - flat, the width of a kerf or just slightly larger with a slight taper on one end. Photos in thread below.

Ear muffs and plugs worn together is about the ultimate.

Some use extension ladders.

I use the Malloff style end boards and 2x12 with angle iron. 
First photos in this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=127798
 I may change some of this procedure but it works well and I already have it assembled. A 10 foot 2X12 with 1.5" angles screwed to it is not that easy to move around.

I suggest you buy a copy of "Chainsaw Lumbermaking" by Will Malloof. Its out of print, but Amazon shows used ones from time to time. There's tons of good info in this forum but the book has a lot of detail, well presented and in logical order that will speed you along.


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## BobL (Mar 12, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I've got a 3/8 sprocket tip ready to put on the 36" bar. 7-pin, or 8-pin rim on this 084?


You will have to try it for yourself but I would start with an 8 on the 36" bar.



> I'll be running full synthetic oil at 32:1.


Your call but I wouldn't run it that low as you'll be sitting in a constant pall of unburnt "synthetic" anyway so the less of that stuff around the better. I see the manual says 50:1 so 40:1 should be plenty. I reckon 50:1 with fully synthetic would even be safe in small wood. There are some guys here that have always run 50:1 with no probs



> Tuning of the saw will be rich. Do I want any 4-stocking in the cut? I assume I want it where it just barely quits 4-stroking under normal milling load.


That's correct but in practice milling is rarely that constant. The face cuts can represent almost a zero load on a big saw through to where the bar sits at full length in wood, so maximum load. 



> I need some of these small wedges to keep the kerf open. Which ones are you using?


 I cut my own out of 3/4" thick hardwood boards and drill a hole in them and tie some bright nylon cord around them so I can find them in the sawdust. Some operators paint theirs with fluoro colors.



> I need some better hearing protection. Suggestions? Links?


I'd recommend Peltor 10HA or B, PLUS earplugs. There are only 2 or 3 other brands of earmuffs that can reduce noise as much as these Peltors can.



> I'll have to come up with some type of rails. I have a smallish extension ladder that might work well.


A ladder will be a good start. With a big milling saw I like to start the saw on the rails, and also let it cool down on the rails when the cut is finished.





You might also need to look at log lifting mechanisms to lift logs off the ground. Please, please, please,  don't post a pictures of yourself milling on your knees.


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## MostShady1 (Mar 12, 2010)

My question is, are these milled slabs gonna go into that basement somewhere?


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## blsnelling (Mar 12, 2010)

MostShady1 said:


> My question is, are these milled slabs gonna go into that basement somewhere?



Yes. They will eventually hold my collector saws that I don't normally run. How thick do you think I should make them?


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## MostShady1 (Mar 13, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Yes. They will eventually hold my collector saws that I don't normally run. How thick do you think I should make them?



Don't know how you plan on setting it up, but I'd say 3" for some of those big boys you have.


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## TraditionalTool (Mar 13, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Yes. They will eventually hold my collector saws that I don't normally run. How thick do you think I should make them?


I would go 8/4 at least, myself. In fact I'm going to cut some ponderosa pine from a cant I have, for similar shelving (not to put collector saws though  ), and I'm going to cut them 8/4. I have some maple I had laminated for the corbels. Depending on the length, weight is a consideration. Walnut ain't light.


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## blsnelling (Mar 13, 2010)

I've got to ask a newbie question. What's 8/4? I was thinking something along the lines of 1 3/4".


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## blsnelling (Mar 13, 2010)

I just found this. POST. So basically eight quarters.


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## TraditionalTool (Mar 13, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I've got to ask a newbie question. What's 8/4? I was thinking something along the lines of 1 3/4".


Brad,

In addition to that link you found, consider that most lumber requires some size for the process of finishing. So an 8/4 piece will only be 1 3/4" in finished size, typically. If you get a finished 8/4 that is a full 2", consider that a blessing (when buying from a store).

There is also an entire list of categories of timber/lumber as well. S2S (surfaced 2 sides), S4S (surfaced 4 sides), S1E (surfaced 1 edge), S&E (side and edge), etc...there are way too many to list...as there is also formulas for calculating for size of knots, how close they are to edge, length of splits at the end, etc...and that will determine that grade as well (#1, #2, or less).

Not trying to confuse you, but buying wood is one of the most complicated ordeals for one to experience, IMO, and it always seem you have to pay for some shortage some where along the line. Whether you like it or not! 

Another thing to consider is that you can't just slab them and make shelves out of them unless you will accept good size checking, the wood your cutting will be wet. So plan to let it dry and/or find a kiln to help speed that process up. 8/4 will take 2 years to completely dry out enough to use to build with. You have space, so might be able to build a small kiln in the backyard, possibly, or your garage, or find someone in your area with a kiln. I would make sure to get the ends sealed and let it dry.


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## mtngun (Mar 13, 2010)

TraditionalTool said:


> I would make sure to get the ends sealed and let it dry.


Ya, add some kind of end sealer to your list. If nothing else, latex paint. 

Brad, did you intend to plane these boards ? Got a planer or access to a friend's planer ? 

Before attacking the walnut, you might want to practice milling on a less valuable log, to get a feel for how to set up the mill and what kind of things can go wrong.



BobL said:


> Please, please, please, don't post a pictures of yourself milling on your knees.


 Or you may receive a few ergonomics pointers.


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## Kicker_92 (Mar 13, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I've got a 3/8 sprocket tip ready to put on the 36" bar. 7-pin, or 8-pin rim on this 084?



I'm using an 8-pin with 3/8" chain on the 880. On the 385xp I have a 7-pin also using 3/8" chain.

I would suggest going with the 8-pin unless you get into some really big slabs. With the shorter pitch chain and milling, you need to keep the chain speed up. The 084 should have no problems pulling that setup in 20" hardwood.


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## Daninvan (Mar 13, 2010)

I think the thickness that you should cut your wood depends on the details of how you plan to "hold your collector saws". I'm assuming as are the others that this means shelves? So, how much weight are you expecting them to hold and what will the span between supports be? You can Google shelf span chart and gets lots of info to help you decide what thickness you need to minimize sagging. 

I doubt that you would need something as thick as 1 3/4" for structural reasons. Of course it still may be desirable for aesthetic reasons, or if you are intending to span a long distance. The thinner you cut your slabs, the more of them you are likely to get. 

In any case, I'd probably start with a cut that is 1/2" over my final desired thickness (I don't cut as smoothly as many others apparently! :hmm3grin2orange, dry it for a year or two, then flatten one side (with a wide jointer, planer sled, etc) and then use planer for the other side. Cut the back edge flat so it'll snug up against the wall. The front you can cut parallel to the back, or leave the natural edge exposed if you prefer that.

Sounds like a fun project. I think the time required for drying may be an issue for you though.

Dan


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## BobL (Mar 13, 2010)

Daninvan said:


> I think the thickness that you should cut your wood depends on the details of how you plan to "hold your collector saws". I'm assuming as are the others that this means shelves? So, how much weight are you expecting them to hold and what will the span between supports be? You can Google shelf span chart and gets lots of info to help you decide what thickness you need to minimize sagging.
> 
> I doubt that you would need something as thick as 1 3/4" for structural reasons. Of course it still may be desirable for aesthetic reasons



If that is the case then another approach is to cut the slabs at 1 1/4" finish to 1" and then glue 2" wide strip across the front of the shelf, quicker to dry and looks almost as good.


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## huskyhank (Mar 13, 2010)

Its time to:

1) Visualize your shelf project in the place where it will reside.
(look around the web at some slab furniture builders)

2) Then make a scale sketch on graph paper. 
(big pad, 2 X 3 feet of 1" squares)

3) Then a cut list to near finish dimensions. 

4) Then a milling list to fulfill the above.

5) A drying scheme.

You have complete freedom at this point to make anything you want. You could go rustic and build it green and let it dry in place. You could make it as simple or as elaborate as you choose.


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## TraditionalTool (Mar 13, 2010)

Daninvan said:


> I doubt that you would need something as thick as 1 3/4" for structural reasons.


That is true, I hate 4/4 shelves, they look so friggin whimpy!

Bob's way would work, but 8/4 looks way better, IMO. Live edge that is drawknifed looks cool...

BTW, not a bad idea to think about splitting the slabs down the middle/pith if the log is big enough.


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## blsnelling (Mar 13, 2010)

I thought I would probably make supports out of milled wood as well, perhaps a blonder wood to add some contrast. There's a hard Maple log I plan to mill as well. That would add nice contrast. How far apart I put them is up in the air. The can be as close as every 16".

I figure I'll have a saw every couple of feet. I'm talking about saws like my 07S, 08S, both S10s, 076 PHO, 048, 038 Mag, 028. They will all have bars, sans the 076. So I figure there'll probably be a saw every 18" or so, with them setting at an angle. 

I had thought that I would leave the outer edge uncut for a more rustic look. But I do like Bobs idea of making the shelves 1" and gluing a front on them. That would make me a lot more pieces of lumber out of this log too. You've got me nailed, it will be very hard for me to let this wood dry for 2 years, lol


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## BobL (Mar 13, 2010)

RE: "I will not be accepting port work for a while. Here's why."

Brad, now that you have entered this forum you could be doing even less porting work - this milling stuff stuff is all consuming.


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## 1947wdx (Mar 13, 2010)

BobL said:


> RE: "I will not be accepting port work for a while. Here's why."
> 
> Brad, now that you have entered this forum you could be doing even less porting work - this milling stuff stuff is all consuming.



Given that 


Bob is thinking about starting to design and build a new mill,
Brad is one of the resident experts on saw modifications

I propose that you two guys put your heads together and come up with the most bad AS* chainsaw mill out there.

Then instead of everyone wanting to cut cookies, they'll be milling slabs...


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## BobL (Mar 13, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I had thought that I would leave the outer edge uncut for a more rustic look. But I do like Bobs idea of making the shelves 1" and gluing a front on them. That would make me a lot more pieces of lumber out of this log too. You've got me nailed, it will be very hard for me to let this wood dry for 2 years, lol



There's no reason why you cannot have both. Mill half at 2" and half at 1" - then rip the wain off both and glue the 2" wain to the 1" boards. You get what you want and also have a a heap of 2" boards left over to do something else with.


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## TraditionalTool (Mar 13, 2010)

BobL said:


> There's no reason why you cannot have both. Mill half at 2" and half at 1" - then rip the wain off both and glue the 2" wain to the 1" boards. You get what you want and also have a a heap of 2" boards left over to do something else with.


:agree2:

I wouldn't cut yourself short of larger stock, but if you want to get at it sooner, 1 inch will reduce that in half, approx. Laminating lumber sucks, so why I prefer larger when possible.

Unfortunately milling is not an instant gradification, unless your building with green logs, then it doesn't matter!


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## MostShady1 (Mar 13, 2010)

Support it as best you can (every stud) and build it green, Brad!!! I'm dying to see pics of the new display!opcorn:


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## blsnelling (Mar 13, 2010)

I had every intention of buying a 36" mill, and even had one in my Baileys shopping cart. But tonight I dropped a beautiful 32"-36" Oak, and am now thinking perhaps I should go ahead and get the 48" mill. I've already got a 50" bar, so why not? It'll be a little bulkier to handle, but there won't be much it can't handle.


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## BobL (Mar 14, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I had every intention of buying a 36" mill, and even had one in my Baileys shopping cart. But tonight I dropped a beautiful 32"-36" Oak, and am now thinking perhaps I should go ahead and get the 48" mill. I've already got a 50" bar, so why not? It'll be a little bulkier to handle, but there won't be much it can't handle.



You can always put a 36" bar on a 48" mill - I leave my 64" rails on my mill for bars between 36 and 60"


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## Brmorgan (Mar 14, 2010)

Brad, since you're getting set up to mill a Walnut log, this PDF might be of interest to you:

Walnut Logs and How To Prepare Them

Or at least that's how it was done in 1888!


I'm not sure how you'll find the time to fit milling into your schedule! You might end up not taking any port work for longer than planned, it can be addicting!


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## blsnelling (Mar 15, 2010)

Would a 48" mill be significantly harder to handle and keep level in 20" wood than a 36" mill? Or would the added length just help balance out the power head?


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## huskyhank (Mar 15, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Would a 48" mill be significantly harder to handle and keep level in 20" wood than a 36" mill? Or would the added length just help balance out the power head?



I think it will work just fine. You'll have a foot more length to move around but very little extra weight.


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## blsnelling (Mar 15, 2010)

I just ordered the 48" Alaskan, and a set of slabbing brackets. I'm still not sure what I'm going to do for rails though.


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## mtngun (Mar 15, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I just ordered the 48" Alaskan, and a set of slabbing brackets. I'm still not sure what I'm going to do for rails though.


You didn't really need to buy the slabbing brackets. Most of us use something homemade. 

I make my "end boards" out of scrap pieces of OSB underlayment, the kind that is about 3/4" thick. 3 dry wall screws attach the end board to the log (carefully checking with a torpedo level) then 1 drywall screw or deck screw attaches the guide board/rail to the end board. Eventually the end boards get chewed up and have to be replaced, which is no big deal.

Looks like your storebought slabbing brackets are designed to be used with a pair of 2x4's. 2x4's should work fine when they are new, it's just that they'll warp and twist after a while. I imagine you could also substitute unistrut, though I think the unistrut is over-rated -- it's heavy and expensive and not particularly stiff.

You'll find something for a guide rail, preferably something that you already have laying around. Start out cheap and simple.


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## dustytools (Mar 15, 2010)

If someone has a GTG this Spring I will hook you up with some uni-strut Brad.


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## BobL (Mar 15, 2010)

mtngun said:


> I imagine you could also substitute unistrut, though I think the unistrut is over-rated -- it's heavy and expensive and not particularly stiff.



Yep I agree. 

The way I get around the stiffness is to effectively use double thickness non-perforated unistrut but that stuff is HEAVY.






That means lifting 2 lengths of 20', 12 gauge non perforated unistrut (Plus 6 all thread rods plus 2 angle iron slabbing ends) on/off the log for every cut.
The unistrut alone weighs 76 lbs (so marginally more than the BIL mill with the 880 attached!) but with the extra bits and pieces the total weight is >80 lbs

Lifting the rails onto my roof rack also aint that easy (imagine lifting the BIL mill above your head to put that on a roof rack) - so where I can I use other methods.





When I get some spare cash I'm going to upgrade to ally unistrut.


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## Brmorgan (Mar 15, 2010)

That is THE coolest forklift I've seen. It just needs some good swamper tires!


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## gemniii (Mar 15, 2010)

BobL said:


> Yep I agree.
> 
> The way I get around the stiffness is to effectively use double thickness non-perforated unistrut but that stuff is HEAVY.
> 
> ...



So Bob, it seems that you are designing an exercise program.

How many reps do you do you recommend lifting the BIL mill over your head?

I'm glad my tiny 660 w/ Mark III only weighs about 50lbs.


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## BobL (Mar 16, 2010)

gemniii said:


> So Bob, it seems that you are designing an exercise program.
> 
> How many reps do you do you recommend lifting the BIL mill over your head?



None if I can help it 



> I'm glad my tiny 660 w/ Mark III only weighs about 50lbs.


All this is of course nothing compared to the weight of the slabs.

And to top it off, SWMBO says I can't be getting any exercise milling cos I'm still gaining weight!


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## blsnelling (Mar 17, 2010)

Here's a HD vid I made of the 084 that I will be milling with. It has a brand new OEM piston. The cylinder is stock except for a little transfer work. I also modded the muffler. In this vid it's tune to 13,000 and still 4-stroking hard when not loaded. It's pulling 11,000 in the cut.

VIDEO

It looks like I can't embed a video in this forum???


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## BobL (Mar 17, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Here's a HD vid I made of the 084 that I will be milling with. It has a brand new OEM piston. The cylinder is stock except for a little transfer work. I also modded the muffler. In this vid it's tune to 13,000 and still 4-stroking hard when not loaded. It's pulling 11,000 in the cut.
> 
> VIDEO
> 
> It looks like I can't embed a video in this forum???



looking good, real good Brad, - I'd like to see that puppy cutting some good ole Aussie hardwood.

You will definitely need better ear protection if you are going to mill with thing.


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## blsnelling (Mar 17, 2010)

BobL said:


> looking good, real good Brad, - I'd like to see that puppy cutting some good ole Aussie hardwood.
> 
> You will definitely need better ear protection if you are going to mill with thing.



Thanks Bob. Yes, it is *VERY *loud. I will be taking your advice and using ear plugs and muffs. For those of you that haven't run a muff modded 084 turning 11K in the wood, it' has an extremely loud piercing tone. I will hurt your ears!


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## BobL (Mar 17, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Thanks Bob. Yes, it is *VERY *loud. I will be taking your advice and using ear plugs and muffs. For those of you that haven't run a muff modded 084 turning 11K in the wood, it' has an extremely loud piercing tone. I will hurt your ears!



Even though I opened up the muffler on the 880 from 14 to 19 mm (area increase of 84% minus the effect of the pipe), my muffler noise did not increase all that much. Before the mod, especially when milling the top half of the log the noise would bounce off the log up into the operators face. Now with the pipe directing the noise and exhaust away from the operator it quite reasonable but I still wear muffs and earplugs.


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## blsnelling (Mar 17, 2010)

I didn't measure, but I probably doubled the exhaust opening. The are no internal baffles or spark arrestor screen in the muffler either.


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## BobL (Mar 17, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I didn't measure, but I probably doubled the exhaust opening. The are no internal baffles or spark arrestor screen in the muffler either.



I didn't mess with the baffles but I did remove the spark arrestor.


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## blsnelling (Mar 17, 2010)

This muffler body had no baffles or cage. So I got lucky there.


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## mtngun (Mar 17, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> It looks like I can't embed a video in this forum???


Not sure about that, but some of us country bumpkins don't have broadband so video is not missed on this forum.

The chainsaw forum drives me nuts with its never ending parade of cookie-cutting videos. 

Time after time I click on a thread -- which can take a couple of minutes to open in the evenings when my satellite service is bogged down with traffic -- only to learn that the thread is about yet another cookie-cutting video that I can't view, anyway. 

Seriously, your 084 should be perfect for milling. Wish one would fall into my lap.


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## blsnelling (Mar 17, 2010)

mtngun said:


> Seriously, your 084 should be perfect for milling. Wish one would fall into my lap.



This 084 didn't exactly fall into my lap, but I wasn't looking for one when I found it. I was just browsing around and found it for sale. Next thing you know, I had another 084, lol.


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## TraditionalTool (Mar 17, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> It looks like I can't embed a video in this forum???


That is probably so, I know in the Homeowner forum you can't embed a video, and I think it is dependent on how the moderator of the forum sets it.


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## gr8scott72 (Mar 17, 2010)

TraditionalTool said:


> That is probably so, I know in the Homeowner forum you can't embed a video, and I think it is dependent on how the moderator of the forum sets it.



Just look at the bottom of any page in question. In here is says:

HTML code is Off

so, no embedding.


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## gemniii (Mar 17, 2010)

gr8scott72 said:


> Just look at the bottom of any page in question. In here is says:
> 
> HTML code is Off
> 
> so, no embedding.


Thanks for small favors!


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## BobL (Mar 17, 2010)

gr8scott72 said:


> Just look at the bottom of any page in question. In here is says:
> 
> HTML code is Off
> 
> so, no embedding.



I just asked the mod nicely if he would enable it.


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## Typhoon (Mar 17, 2010)

Glad you are getting into it Brad. I have a Lumbermate2000. By the way what ever happened to that crushed 357 I sent you? lol. ... I remember you got it running again.


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## blsnelling (Mar 18, 2010)

Typhoon said:


> By the way what ever happened to that crushed 357 I sent you? lol. ... I remember you got it running again.



Brand new cases.


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