# Saw running while climbing



## MISteve (Dec 30, 2011)

Just getting started with climbing. Basic tree removals at this time. Is it o.k. to leave the saw on, with brake on, while moving in the tree? Or should you restart it after you move? I have been leaving it on, hanging on a 3 foot lanyard.


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## Tree Pig (Dec 30, 2011)

MISteve said:


> Just getting started with climbing. Basic tree removals at this time. Is it o.k. to leave the saw on, with brake on, while moving in the tree? Or should you restart it after you move? I have been leaving it on, hanging on a 3 foot lanyard.



NO F___ING WAY. Shut it off as soon as your done with your cut... Restart when you repositioned and in a safe stable location to run a saw.


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## MISteve (Dec 30, 2011)

Thanks for the feedback. Off it will be. Since I will not need the longer strap to keep the saw away from my leg, do you prefer a shorter strap? How do you carry your saw?


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## Tree Pig (Dec 30, 2011)

MISteve said:


> Thanks for the feedback. Off it will be. Since I will not need the longer strap to keep the saw away from my leg, do you prefer a shorter strap? How do you carry your saw?



I use the bungee strap


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## VA-Sawyer (Dec 30, 2011)

I don't let a running saw hang either. I have seen a few climbers that will set the brake on a running saw and let it hang, but I keep my saws tuned so they start on first pull when warm.
Rick


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## MISteve (Dec 30, 2011)

Mine is a tearaway from Baileys. I thought that would be best. What about gloves? I have been using rubber coated gloves,same as I use on the ground. Seems like they grip to good. They get caught in my snaps and carabiners, as well as my flipline, man does that feel good, and I cannot slip a rope when I want to lower something down. What type of glove do you use?


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## Isna (Dec 30, 2011)

Always turn off the saw when moving around in the tree. A well tuned warm saw should start on the first pull when you need to cut. I use gloves on the ground but usually avoid them when tree climbing. When I really have to (freezing weather), I choose the thinest gloves available (usually use thermal under-gloves, without regular gloves over them). Recently found knitted gloves with a rubber lining (grip) on the inside. Don't know how you call them but they are really handy.


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## Nailsbeats (Dec 30, 2011)

I do it whenever I feel that restarting it is slowing me down. When I limb a conifer on the way up is when I do it the most, the saw doesn't shut off until I'm ready to top it out or I have to set some rigging for a limb I can't free fall. Always remember the chain break and watch out for a hot muffler and where it is placed.


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## MISteve (Dec 30, 2011)

The last two trees I have done, one pine and a maple with a million branches, I got tired of starting the saw. Still, seems like the less it is on, the less risk there will be.


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## Tree Pig (Dec 30, 2011)

MISteve said:


> The last two trees I have done, one pine and a maple with a million branches, I got tired of starting the saw. Still, seems like the less it is on, the less risk there will be.


To me just too many things that could go wrong moving with a running saw. It does slow you down a lot but for me its worth the piece of mind... Then again I am not doing this day in and day out... speed and production are not a huge concern.


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## minuteman tree (Dec 30, 2011)

Mine is always off. Seen a few guys get cut, and having to go rescue someone isn't high I'm my list of likes.


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## beastmaster (Dec 30, 2011)

On conifers with lots of branches on a single trunk, I will leave the saw running with the brake on if I am only moving up a few steps to the next ring. Normally I don't though.


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## deevo (Dec 30, 2011)

MISteve said:


> Mine is a tearaway from Baileys. I thought that would be best. What about gloves? I have been using rubber coated gloves,same as I use on the ground. Seems like they grip to good. They get caught in my snaps and carabiners, as well as my flipline, man does that feel good, and I cannot slip a rope when I want to lower something down. What type of glove do you use?



If you got the buckingham tear away that's a good choice. Atlas blue rubber grip gloves are good, and they have heavier ones for winter use. They have good dexterity and can tie/untie things pretty good. I guess it's a preference for some, I always shut mine off between cuts, like some have said, the muffler part brushes up on your pants or gear you'll know it! Also if groundies need to get your attention it's a bit easier for them. I only leave mine running when in the bucket and it's in the scabbard.


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## VA-Sawyer (Dec 31, 2011)

If the branches are that close together, I just cut as many as I can reach then shut down and move. I guess, on some conifers, that may be 6 - 10 branches between starts. 
I also use the blue Atlas gloves in trees. At first I had the problems the OP mentioned, but I learned to adjust to them pretty quickly. Hate to climb without them now.
Rick


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## derwoodii (Dec 31, 2011)

A lot depends on task but more often I'm cool to leave saw running brake on, but I'll not let it idle for long say 1 to 3 minutes if the rig or move takes my time.

Note warm it up on ground 1st before you start your climb, be sure idle chain n brake are fit for task before you get to tree top.


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## tree md (Dec 31, 2011)

I usually shut the saw off but if I am making fast cuts close together I will leave it on sometimes with the break engaged. Sometimes I will leave the 660 or 440 running with the break engaged when I am making fast spar cuts while chunking it out. Saves energy from having to lug the big saw up and restarting it. On the old top handle Poulans that were popular for climbing back in the 90's, I would always leave those running because they had a tendency to not want to start again once they got hot. What a piece of ####. So glad I don't have to use those anymore. Most times I shut my saw off though. I always worry in the back of my mind that the muffler is going to come in contact with my climbing line and melt it.

On the gloves, I rarely use gloves in the tree but I have started keeping a pair in my chalk bag for when I need them. I have been using the "Grease Monkey" gloves that they sell at home depot. I was using the fingerless ones but have been unable to find them in stock lately.


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## MISteve (Dec 31, 2011)

Muffler burn on me or the rope. I had not thought of that. Thanks. Being able to hear those on the ground,good point. One thing about my idling saw, it gets plenty of oil on the bar. It will run less now.


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## tree md (Dec 31, 2011)

Just one tip on the idling saw. Pretty common knowledge but you never know who is reading this stuff.

You always want to have your chain tensioned enough that it will not freewheel in the tree (or on the ground for that matter). I like to set my tension to where the chain will stop when I let off the trigger. Not to the point where it is binding but there is a sweet spot where it will stop when you let off the trigger without binding.


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## MISteve (Dec 31, 2011)

My chain quits when I get off the throttle. Only idles with the brake on anyway. Oil pump is strong even at low rpms. No adjustment on this model. I tend to have my chains a little on the tight side.


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## VA-Sawyer (Jan 2, 2012)

Just what kind of saw are you using ? Most saws I have worked on the oil pump is driven by the sprocket not the crankshaft. They only pump when the chain is turning.
Rick


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## ozzy42 (Jan 2, 2012)

tree md said:


> I usually shut the saw off but if I am making fast cuts close together I will leave it on sometimes with the break engaged. Sometimes I will leave the 660 or 440 running with the break engaged when I am making fast spar cuts while chunking it out. Saves energy from having to lug the big saw up and restarting it. On the old top handle Poulans that were popular for climbing back in the 90's, I would always leave those running because they had a tendency to not want to start again once they got hot. What a piece of ####. So glad I don't have to use those anymore. Most times I shut my saw off though. I always worry in the back of my mind that the muffler is going to come in contact with my climbing line and melt it.
> 
> On the gloves, I rarely use gloves in the tree but I have started keeping a pair in my chalk bag for when I need them. I have been using the "Grease Monkey" gloves that they sell at home depot. I was using the fingerless ones but have been unable to find them in stock lately.



LOL I remember my uncle twice throwing a ''pull-on'' out of the tree after pulling on one for 40 or 50 pulls and it still not starting but the starter chord breaking.
The old DAs weren't too bad ,but they cost $250 compaired to $79 for a 2000micro.A lot of money for a climb saw back then.


To the OP: fortunately ,today's saws readily start with only a short pull when warmed up.
Not worth having them run all the time.The exception being,[as others have stated] with a bigger rear handle on a spar.
I will let them run if I can get to the next cut quickly.


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## Scrat (Jan 2, 2012)

tree md said:


> Just one tip on the idling saw. Pretty common knowledge but you never know who is reading this stuff.
> 
> You always want to have your chain tensioned enough that it will not freewheel in the tree (or on the ground for that matter). I like to set my tension to where the chain will stop when I let off the trigger. Not to the point where it is binding but there is a sweet spot where it will stop when you let off the trigger without binding.



I think what Tree Md is saying is you should have your saw properly tuned so the Idle speed is below the speed in which the clutch is engaging and driving the chain. And have your chain properly adjusted to the manufacturers specification for optimal performance and SAFETY.:msp_thumbup:


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## MISteve (Jan 2, 2012)

I have a Solo 633.Chain does not move at idle. Oil pump is not adjustable. Starts with one pull when warm. My original question was should you climb with the saw running. I should have stated first that the brake is on as soon as I am done with the cut. Chain is tight.


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## mitch95100 (Jan 2, 2012)

Stihl-O-Matic said:


> NO F___ING WAY. Shut it off as soon as your done with your cut... Restart when you repositioned and in a safe stable location to run a saw.



umm its comon sense but, when are you ever in a stable position hanging from a rope in a tree??


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## chief116 (Jan 2, 2012)

mitch95100 said:


> umm its comon sense but, when are you ever in a stable position hanging from a rope in a tree??



ummm, you're doing it wrong.


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## Tree Pig (Jan 2, 2012)

mitch95100 said:


> umm its comon sense but, when are you ever in a stable position hanging from a rope in a tree??




All the time actually.




chief116 said:


> ummm, you're doing it wrong.




I guess that covers that


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## minuteman tree (Jan 2, 2012)

I have an old cs 3000 with a 12" bar. It's pretty ugly, but runs great. Starts with 1 pull when its warm.


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## MISteve (Jan 2, 2012)

What more can be asked of a saw, than to start on one pull. My Solo has a 16 inch bar. Does 12 seem to be long enough most of the time?


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## Bounty Hunter (Jan 5, 2012)

MISteve said:


> What more can be asked of a saw, than to start on one pull. My Solo has a 16 inch bar. Does 12 seem to be long enough most of the time?



We have 12" and 14" bars on our 200Ts...and i find that i favor the 12" most of the the time. If ya need a longer bar, ya probably need a bigger saw...


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## MISteve (Jan 5, 2012)

I kind of like the extra reach of the 16, but I have noticed that if I have to use all 16, it is a little hard to control being a top handle model. I will be needing a second saw any way, maybe try a 12 bar.


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## minuteman tree (Jan 5, 2012)

I find the 12" to be just right. It handles everything I throw at it and keeps the saw nice and balanced.


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## MISteve (Jan 5, 2012)

I like the sound of nice and balanced. One of the things I am hoping to gain by less bar is not so much how heavy the saw is, but how does it feel when in use. Mine feels heavy even though it is listed as 8 lbs. That is as light as most other models of similar cc's. Maybe a trip to the dealers is in order. Try a few and see if bar length feels different.


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## beastmaster (Jan 6, 2012)

I recently did a job and had to use a big husky in the tree with maybe a 42 in bar. Each time I turned it off it would take 20 pulls to start again. It was killing me. It wasn't my saw or I think I would of throu it out of the tree. I switched it out for my little 038 with a 28 in bar. Twice as much work but at least it starts easy. When I got low enough I used the husky but had the grounds men start it each time I needed it and hand it to me off a ladder. That husky wore out the whole crew. 
When I first started climbing they didn't have chain brakes and we use to keep our saws running all the time while limbing big pines, hanging them off home made saw lanyards of 1/2 in three strand maybe 3 ft long. We were trained to never cross over our safetys with the saw running but passing it behind or backs to switch sides Never had no issues with it running. Big saws too o64's 084's. They also didn't have compression releases either so they were hard sometimes to start, it was better to just keep them running.


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## MISteve (Jan 6, 2012)

Good info. Had not thought about passing over my safetys with it on. But brake is still on. You are a bigger man than me if an 038 with a 28 inch bar is little. Mine is almost too big on the ground. Love the power on my 038 Magnum.


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## mic687 (Jan 6, 2012)

beastmaster said:


> On conifers with lots of branches on a single trunk, I will leave the saw running with the brake on if I am only moving up a few steps to the next ring. Normally I don't though.



I do the same


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