# Husqvarna 445 20" Bar/Chain Issues



## nootkaebear (Feb 23, 2013)

We have a Husqvarna 445. We cut wood for our woodstove. There are some very large trees that we have a chance to take part of, so bought a 20" Bar and 20" chain. Both showed that they will fit the Husqvarna 445. The chain is so short, it will not go on. Is there something I am missing? We figured that maybe it should have been a 3/8 instead of a .325, but the bar and chain combination that sales at Bailey's will not work. We attempted to get a different chain, and try that. Still will not fit. This is getting old, and although the Husqvarna has proven to be a good chainsaw in all other aspects, it would be very much appreciated if someone can tell me what the deal is. I would hate to lose the chance to pick up next year's wood early in the year like this.


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## sachsmo (Feb 23, 2013)

What is the pitch of your sprocket? 

A 445 running 20 .375 is marginal at best. A really good running 60cc saw is about the minimum for .375-20" in hardwoods.

Better yet a 70cc class saw. But I would suspect something is not matching in your set-up.


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## KenJax Tree (Feb 23, 2013)

How many DL does it say on the bar and how many DL is the chain. It sounds like you have a narrow kerf (pixel) bar and a standard .325 chain. A 20" NK chain has 80 links the standard 20" has 78

Pics of the info on bar and chain might help.

Maybe i'm way off here someone with more knowledge will chime in.


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## HuskStihl (Feb 23, 2013)

The 445 comes with a .325 sprocket and bar. Without more info we can't figure out where the problem lies. I own a 445, and while I consider it an impressive little saw for the money, mine is pretty unhappy trying to pull more than a 16" bar. A small mount .325 20" husky bar should take a 78dl chain. I'm guessing a .325/ 3/8th mismatch. Good luck


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## nootkaebear (Feb 23, 2013)

HuskStihl said:


> The 445 comes with a .325 sprocket and bar. I consider it an impressive little saw for the money, mine is pretty unhappy trying to pull more than a 16" bar. A small mount .325 20" husky bar should take a 78dl chain. I'm guessing a .325/ 3/8th mismatch. Good luck



Well, we thought that the .325 - 3/8th mismatch also. So we got our thoughts together, and found that, of course there is .325 sprocket, and the box for the 20"chain, is a Husqvarna brand that says that it will fit the 445. The Bar says that it is 20", 1.5mm bar, and the chain says the same thing. I am not trying to be dense here, but Husqvarna says that it will fit, the chain package says that it will fit, the bar says that it will fit. But the chain is just too short, and the 1.5mm bar, and the 1.3mm chain will not fit into it. We purchased one to make sure

I appreciate your input. I am just really at a loss.


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## Ironworker (Feb 23, 2013)

Try taking it to your local chainsaw guy, preferably a Husqvarna one.


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## sachsmo (Feb 23, 2013)

Tell us the numbers stamped on the bar.


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## moody (Feb 23, 2013)

Take no offense to this because I'm not being hateful. Is the tensioner adjusted closest to the sprocket? What does the bar have stamped on it on the mount end? My guess is your problem lies with you bought some H30 chain. To help we need a picture.


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## nootkaebear (Feb 23, 2013)

moody said:


> Take no offense to this because I'm not being hateful. Is the tensioner adjusted closest to the sprocket? What does the bar have stamped on it on the mount end? My guess is your problem lies with you bought some H30 chain. To help we need a picture.



We understand how to adjust the tensioner. If you put the bar on tight against the sprocket, the chain will not go onto the bar. Usually you can put the chain over the bar and it will slip right on. We have put new chains on. If you could even get the chain on the bar, you would not be able to put tension on it. The bar is 3/4" too long.


Info from bar:
50CM .325 800L 50 1.3mm 

James is a mechanic, he can build motors, he has changed bar and chain on our other chainsaws in the past. He has installed new chains on these two chainsaws. We have (2) 445 Husqvarna chainsaws. These two chainsaws are not our first chainsaws. Anyway, He took the sprocket off and inspected for damage, nothing wrong there.

From tail end of 20" bar needs another 3/4" the Husqvarna chain and the Oregon chain show exactly the same specs. It makes no sense. The bar is 3 and 3/8" longer than 20"


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## watsonr (Feb 23, 2013)

nootkaebear said:


> But the chain is just too short, and the 1.5mm bar, and the 1.3mm chain will not fit into it. I am just really at a loss.



Sounds like the bar and chain were packaged wrong. The bar is longer than the chain and the bar slot is 1.5mm and chain is 1.3mm? They put the wrong chain into the package is my guess.


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## o8f150 (Feb 23, 2013)

nootkaebear said:


> We understand how to adjust the tensioner. If you put the bar on tight against the sprocket, the chain will not go onto the bar. Usually you can put the chain over the bar and it will slip right on. We have put new chains on. If you could even get the chain on the bar, you would not be able to put tension on it. The bar is 3/4" too long.
> 
> 
> Info from bar:
> ...



that is a 325 pitch 50 gauge 80dl,,, your chain has to be the exact same for it to fit,, almost sounds like your chain is for an 18" bar


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## nootkaebear (Feb 23, 2013)

sachsmo said:


> What is the pitch of your sprocket?
> 
> A 445 running 20 .375 is marginal at best. A really good running 60cc saw is about the minimum for .375-20" in hardwoods.
> 
> Better yet a 70cc class saw. But I would suspect something is not matching in your set-up.



Apparently, from what yall are saying, the 445 is not going to run worth a dog with 20" anyway. The two 445s that we have came with 18", yet some are saying that we should not go with more than a 16".

We were lucky enough to inherit some recently cut down old Oaks here in Stone Mountain, GA. The professional tree man that cut the trees said that he was using a Sithl 660 with 36" bar, and worked his butt off. He did not seem to have an opinion about the chainsaws that we have, although we were just interested in the trees. So he brought us the whole Oak, part of a Black Cherry, and part of a Pecan tree. The 18" is going to cause some issues with parts of these trees. The Oak was 150-200 years old. Very large.

We have resigned ourselves into possibly picking up a used Stihl set up for a larger bar and chain. I am sure that yall have input you can share about what to look for, as far as motor size, and bar length. Please share with me, and I will begin the long search, and hopefully, will find something in time to move these trees before they cause problems where they are.

Thanks so much!


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## o8f150 (Feb 23, 2013)

nootkaebear said:


> Apparently, from what yall are saying, the 445 is not going to run worth a dog with 20" anyway. The two 445s that we have came with 18", yet some are saying that we should not go with more than a 16".
> 
> We were lucky enough to inherit some recently cut down old Oaks here in Stone Mountain, GA. The professional tree man that cut the trees said that he was using a Sithl 660 with 36" bar, and worked his butt off. He did not seem to have an opinion about the chainsaws that we have, although we were just interested in the trees. So he brought us the whole Oak, part of a Black Cherry, and part of a Pecan tree. The 18" is going to cause some issues with parts of these trees. The Oak was 150-200 years old. Very large.
> 
> ...



you are so right,,, 20" b/c is to much for a 45cc saw,, i am running a 16" on my ms250 and 346xp,, they are happy little saws


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## Philip Wheelock (Feb 23, 2013)

nootkaebear said:


> Apparently, from what yall are saying, the 445 is not going to run worth a dog with 20" anyway. The two 445s that we have came with 18", yet some are saying that we should not go with more than a 16".



Right. 445's are good saws; but don't run longer than the 18" b/c's that came with them.



nootkaebear said:


> We were lucky enough to inherit some recently cut down old Oaks here in Stone Mountain, GA. The professional tree man that cut the trees said that he was using a Sithl 660 with 36" bar, and worked his butt off. ... So he brought us the whole Oak, part of a Black Cherry, and part of a Pecan tree. The 18" is going to cause some issues with parts of these trees. The Oak was 150-200 years old. Very large.



Wow. Issues indeed. You'll definitely need a big saw.



nootkaebear said:


> We have resigned ourselves into possibly picking up a used Stihl set up for a larger bar and chain. I am sure that yall have input you can share about what to look for, as far as motor size, and bar length. Please share with me, and I will begin the long search, and hopefully, will find something in time to move these trees before they cause problems where they are.



Need more information: 1. The diameters of the big oak, cherry & pecan; 2. Whether this wood is a one-time occurrence or whether the tree guy is going to be dropping off more in the future; 3. How many wooded acres on your property. If your main wood source will be big wood courtesy of the tree guy, then you might be best served with a 90cc Stihl or Husky. If you'd rather not go this route again, perhaps some helpful person on AS who lives near Atlanta might be willing to bring over some big iron to cut those logs down to size. Then if you have enough acreage to sustainably feed your stove (1 cord per acre estimate), you could invest in a 60-70cc saw that would complement your 445's.

BTW, a good friend of mine lives in Decatur, but he's not the type to have a saw...


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## watsonr (Feb 23, 2013)

Why don't you ask around here for some help? You could meet a couple members, cut some wood and have an excuse to drink beer when done... and save your money on having to buy a one time use saw? Or the guys bring saws you test and then buy one for later.. I almost said to not buy a saw

Give you a better idea of what to buy.


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## HuskStihl (Feb 23, 2013)

Sounds like a great problem to have! If this is a one time deal, just make do with the 445 with the 18" bar. Get a sharp chisel chain and take your time cutting from both sides of the log. If this will be a regular occurrence, pick up a used husky 372xp or stihl 044/440 with a 24" bar and get to work!


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## moody (Feb 23, 2013)

nootkaebear said:


> We understand how to adjust the tensioner. If you put the bar on tight against the sprocket, the chain will not go onto the bar. Usually you can put the chain over the bar and it will slip right on. We have put new chains on. If you could even get the chain on the bar, you would not be able to put tension on it. The bar is 3/4" too long.
> 
> 
> Info from bar:
> ...



As I said meant no offense. That bar is a H30 bar its a .325 80dl chain. No harm no foul it seems to have worked out for you.


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## Kenskip1 (Feb 23, 2013)

Something that has not been mentioned is the bar oiling.The oiling is non adjustable on this saw and yes I do own one.Figure it out,running a 20BC with an oilier set for a 16BC.Lack of lubrication leads to excessive heat and chain stretching just to get you thinking.I really enjoy my 445 but for what you are into I would think about a 455. Great saw and it will serve you well as long as you don't put a 24BC on it, Ken


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## spike60 (Feb 23, 2013)

I'm thinking we have a case of a mis-matched bar and chain. There are two "20 inch" bars for the .325 Huskys. (Don't know why this is the case) One is a 78 drive link and one is an 80 drive link. So, it might be possible that you have an 80 dl bar and a 78 dl chain you are trying to fit. Just guessin' here, but that's what it sounds like.


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## nootkaebear (Feb 23, 2013)

spike60 said:


> I'm thinking we have a case of a mis-matched bar and chain. There are two "20 inch" bars for the .325 Huskys. (Don't know why this is the case) One is a 78 drive link and one is an 80 drive link. So, it might be possible that you have an 80 dl bar and a 78 dl chain you are trying to fit. Just guessin' here, but that's what it sounds like.



This sounds like quite a possibility. I understand the two different bars, since we had purchased the bar and chain from Bailey's and thought that we could not go wrong. Something somewhere has the wrong info. We have bought other things for these chainsaws, without ever having a problem, so when we ran into this issue, thought we would join here, and get input from those with knowledge. I attempted to contact Husqvarna to find out, and they wanted me to join their forum and ask there. After reading through the conversations at that forum, I realized, if I were going to join a forum to ask questions, that the conversations should be geared a little more like what yall have discussions about. Seems that yall give good advice, and I appreciate your knowledge. Good ideas, and things to watch for; we appreciate it a whole lot.


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## rburg (Feb 23, 2013)

Have you contacted Baileys about the problem They might be able to swap either the bar or chain.


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## 71dart (Feb 23, 2013)

spike60 said:


> I'm thinking we have a case of a mis-matched bar and chain. There are two "20 inch" bars for the .325 Huskys. (Don't know why this is the case) One is a 78 drive link and one is an 80 drive link. So, it might be possible that you have an 80 dl bar and a 78 dl chain you are trying to fit. Just guessin' here, but that's what it sounds like.



Have you counted the drive links on the chain?


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## fearofpavement (Feb 23, 2013)

Where in relationship to Stone Mountain are you? I am about 50 miles south of Atlanta. (about 90 minutes from Stone Mtn) How much big stuff do you have to cut?


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## nootkaebear (Feb 23, 2013)

fearofpavement said:


> Where in relationship to Stone Mountain are you? I am about 50 miles south of Atlanta. (about 90 minutes from Stone Mtn) How much big stuff do you have to cut?



We are less than a mile from Stone Mountain Park, less than 1/4 mile from Downtown Stone Mountain. I am hoping that it will quit raining enough tomorrow to take pix of the trees out there for yall. I would have today, but we have been bombarded with rain for several days.View attachment 281113

The picture uploaded, was the very first of what was brought, and that stuff is tiny compared to most of it. A friend was here and took this picture with his camera phone and sent to me. Seriously, that stuff is small compared to most of what was brought.

I am open to assistance with this. Let me know a price. I can upload more pix after the rain stops, I have tarps over most of it due to the rain.


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## eat a peach (Feb 23, 2013)

How much wood do you guys have? Is this a one time thing ? The main question is are you cutting sunday? We have rain coming monday .
Will there be two of you or more?I live in upstate SC and maybe could help if you have people coming.I have a few big saws.

check your Private Message box


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## 71dart (Feb 24, 2013)

nootkaebear said:


> We are less than a mile from Stone Mountain Park, less than 1/4 mile from Downtown Stone Mountain. I am hoping that it will quit raining enough tomorrow to take pix of the trees out there for yall. I would have today, but we have been bombarded with rain for several days.View attachment 281113
> 
> The picture uploaded, was the very first of what was brought, and that stuff is tiny compared to most of it. A friend was here and took this picture with his camera phone and sent to me. Seriously, that stuff is small compared to most of what was brought.
> 
> I am open to assistance with this. Let me know a price. I can upload more pix after the rain stops, I have tarps over most of it due to the rain.



That should heat the house for awhile! And that looks like more than your 445 wants to take on!


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## sachsmo (Feb 24, 2013)

If you will be cutting stuff like that on a regular basis, start looking for a 70cc saw. (or bigger)

They are out there under $300.

Baileys has a closeout on 18" bar and chain combo for $19.99. can't beat that price.

Bailey's - Carlton 18" Timber Champ Narrow Kerf Chainsaw Bar & Chain Combo


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## sachsmo (Feb 24, 2013)

nootkaebear said:


> This sounds like quite a possibility. I understand the two different bars, since we had purchased the bar and chain from Bailey's and thought that we could not go wrong. Something somewhere has the wrong info. We have bought other things for these chainsaws, without ever having a problem, so when we ran into this issue, thought we would join here, and get input from those with knowledge. I attempted to contact Husqvarna to find out, and they wanted me to join their forum and ask there. After reading through the conversations at that forum, I realized, if I were going to join a forum to ask questions, that the conversations should be geared a little more like what yall have discussions about. Seems that yall give good advice, and I appreciate your knowledge. Good ideas, and things to watch for; we appreciate it a whole lot.



Give Baileys a call. They are great people, let them know what is going on. 
I have heard of them bending over backward to make things right


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## Jimmy in NC (Feb 24, 2013)

sachsmo said:


> Give Baileys a call. They are great people, let them know what is going on.
> I have heard of them bending over backward to make things right



Call them on Monday during business hours. That way you get a knowledgeable person and not just answering service. They will make it right.


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## spike60 (Feb 24, 2013)

71dart said:


> That should heat the house for awhile! And that looks like more than your 445 wants to take on!



That's what I was thinking. That big wood is going to _over_ heat that little 445 before it ever gets a chance to heat your house. 

The best solution would be for the guys who have offered to help give you a hand with it. Sounds like a good idea for a GTG, huh? If it was closer I'd join in myself.


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## SawTroll (Feb 24, 2013)

KenJax Tree said:


> How many DL does it say on the bar and how many DL is the chain. It sounds like you have a narrow kerf (pixel) bar and a standard .325 chain. A 20" NK chain has 80 links the standard 20" has 78.



I'm afraid it is a little more complicated than that, but checking the dl count is always a good idea! :msp_smile:

This could be as simple as the seller of the "kit" messing up the dl counts, and maybe more?


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## nootkaebear (Feb 25, 2013)

Again, you guys have been more help than I could have hoped for. I was checking the Stihl chainsaws on ebay yesterday. What kind of advice do you have for me to watch out for on there?

I have more pix also I will upload in just a minute.


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## nootkaebear (Feb 25, 2013)

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## nootkaebear (Feb 25, 2013)

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## Philip Wheelock (Feb 25, 2013)

nootkaebear said:


> I was checking the Stihl chainsaws on ebay yesterday. What kind of advice do you have for me to watch out for on there?



Still think the GTG with some AS members might be the best way to deal with your wood without having to come up to speed on buying a used saw right away. Also, do you have a splitter?


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## huskydude (Feb 25, 2013)

Holy crap, get that moss off your roof!!! :msp_razz:


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## HuskStihl (Feb 25, 2013)

nootkaebear said:


> Again, you guys have been more help than I could have hoped for. I was checking the Stihl chainsaws on ebay yesterday. What kind of advice do you have for me to watch out for on there?
> 
> I have more pix also I will upload in just a minute.



If this much wood is going to fall into your yard on a regular basis, you would do best with a 70cc saw. In Stihl that would be 044/440 or 046/460. Husky would be a 365 or 372xp (there are others but we'll start here). When looking at used saws on ebay the most important thing is the seller's feedback and comments from people who have purchased saws. You would also like to know what the saws compression is. I won't buy one under 140 unless I feel like doing work on it. Really thorough sellers will pull the muffler and take pictures of the exhaust side of the piston. A newish bar and chain are nice as well. It's always a crapshoot, as you have to take their word for it that the saw starts easily, idles, runs and oils as it should. You can also buy from one of the members through AS, in which case you would basically be guaranteed something good. good luck


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## SawTroll (Feb 25, 2013)

spike60 said:


> I'm thinking we have a case of a mis-matched bar and chain. There are two "20 inch" bars for the .325 Huskys. (Don't know why this is the case) One is a 78 drive link and one is an 80 drive link. So, it might be possible that you have an 80 dl bar and a 78 dl chain you are trying to fit. Just guessin' here, but that's what it sounds like.



Yes, it is - definately!:smile2:


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## nootkaebear (Feb 25, 2013)

Philip Wheelock said:


> Still think the GTG with some AS members might be the best way to deal with your wood without having to come up to speed on buying a used saw right away. Also, do you have a splitter?



A splitter? Yes, a maul, a cheap axe, a Grusfor Bruks, a Fiskar, and James and me...


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## nootkaebear (Feb 25, 2013)

HuskStihl said:


> If this much wood is going to fall into your yard on a regular basis, you would do best with a 70cc saw. In Stihl that would be 044/440 or 046/460. Husky would be a 365 or 372xp (there are others but we'll start here). When looking at used saws on ebay the most important thing is the seller's feedback and comments from people who have purchased saws. You would also like to know what the saws compression is. I won't buy one under 140 unless I feel like doing work on it. Really thorough sellers will pull the muffler and take pictures of the exhaust side of the piston. A newish bar and chain are nice as well. It's always a crapshoot, as you have to take their word for it that the saw starts easily, idles, runs and oils as it should. You can also buy from one of the members through AS, in which case you would basically be guaranteed something good. good luck




There was one that had a video of it running, and revving it up, then letting it idle for a long time, it was a fair video, I guess that in that case you hope that is the same one the send you... I have a hard time trusting people when it comes to things that have motors, that is the reason I wanted to know what you guys think on the matter. Yes, a crapshoot, it is.


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## nootkaebear (Feb 25, 2013)

huskydude said:


> Holy crap, get that moss off your roof!!! :msp_razz:



That is too funny. That is the house next door. No one lives there. The guy that owns it, comes by about once every couple years, to start arguments with us, but other than that, we don't have to see him.

I should have posted that with the pictures, that it is not where we live, we live up the side of the driveway without the big holes in it.


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## nootkaebear (Feb 25, 2013)

HuskStihl said:


> If this much wood is going to fall into your yard on a regular basis, you would do best with a 70cc saw. In Stihl that would be 044/440 or 046/460. Husky would be a 365 or 372xp (there are others but we'll start here). When looking at used saws on ebay the most important thing is the seller's feedback and comments from people who have purchased saws. You would also like to know what the saws compression is. I won't buy one under 140 unless I feel like doing work on it. Really thorough sellers will pull the muffler and take pictures of the exhaust side of the piston. A newish bar and chain are nice as well. It's always a crapshoot, as you have to take their word for it that the saw starts easily, idles, runs and oils as it should. You can also buy from one of the members through AS, in which case you would basically be guaranteed something good. good luck



How would I go about finding someone selling a chainsaw through AS? I would trust that much more easily.


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## HuskStihl (Feb 25, 2013)

nootkaebear said:


> How would I go about finding someone selling a chainsaw through AS? I would trust that much more easily.



There is an "Auctions" tab on the main bar.


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## fearofpavement (Feb 26, 2013)

nootkaebear said:


> How would I go about finding someone selling a chainsaw through AS? I would trust that much more easily.



There is an Auctions tab as the previous poster stated, and then within that there are "auctions" where you bid on items, and "classifieds" where prices are fixed. You'll figure it out if you go there.

Just a word of caution, anyone can join Arboristsite so the fact that someone is a member here does not guarantee a good transaction. If you find a saw that you are interested in, look up the info on the member to see if they have been around and post from time to time or if they are brand new. The site does not provide any guarantees like eBay does if a transaction goes sour, and they occasionally do but finding a saw from a respected member here is more likely to be satisfactory than taking a pot shot on eBay.

The best option is to buy a saw in person so you can make your own determination. I don't presently have any "large" saws for sale but if your future wood cutting is going to consist of bucking logs, then as an inexpensive option you may want to consider a large older saw. Some reasons:
Older saws cost less.
Older saws don't have chain brakes. This will be less of an issue for just bucking than if you are working in trees limbing them.
Older saws don't have good anti-vibe (most) but it may not matter if you are only cutting an hour at a time and spread it out.
Older saws are heavy (most) but it will not matter as much for bucking purposes
Older saws are readily available because they have low appeal to the masses but something you are likely to encounter here on AS.
Older saws are hard to find parts for...With this site and eBay, that is not as much of an issue unless you get something really rare.

For example: I recently sold a McCulloch PM700 for under $200. That is about the 70cc class as has been mentioned. For a modern saw in that cc range you are looking at used prices of $400 to $550 with some either side of that and new prices starting at $800 for the most part.

I have some older running Mac 10-10 models that will be going on the block soon and those saws are quite inexpensive and more powerful than what you have. (<$100) No anti-vibe and loud but they cut well. Simple to maintain and lots were made so parts can be had either nos or used.

Regarding the questions on the splitter, these big "knots" are very challenging to split by hand. Probably can do most of it by manual means but don't "fight" with the tough stuff, cast it aside and go after it with a powered unit later.


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## fearofpavement (Feb 26, 2013)

This is not a recommendation to the OP but... Your present saw would be able to cut up every piece of wood you have lying there. As long as your bar is longer than the length of firewood you want to cut it is possible.

For pieces too large to cut through, noodle the ends of the logs to the full length of the bar, then start your bucking cuts and removing pieces. Then noodle the top half of the log again and remove some more pieces by bucking the top half again. You now have room to buck the bottom of the log and keep repeating. A saw with an 18" bar can turn a redwood into 16" firewood eventually.

Care needs to be taken to keep the chain very sharp, keep the air filter clean, keep the rest of the saw blown out so the cylinder can cool and don't be in a hurry.

You NEED a bigger saw but it CAN be done with what you have.


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## CTYank (Feb 26, 2013)

Hopefully we've dropped the idea of a 20" bar on a 445; it'll thank you.

But, to the basics, for a given saw and new b&c you need:
1) bar mount to match saw (slot for studs, oil passage, adjuster holes)
2) pitch (link spacing) of chain to match that of drive sprocket and bar sprocket
3) gauge (drive link thickness) to match width of bar slots
4) # of chain drive links to match requirement of that bar on that saw. (Often marked on bar, hopefully suitable for that saw.)

It's very simple physics. Any mismatch and its NFG. :msp_sad: 

Just gets tedious to separate 70DL chains from the 72DL chains in the stash. :msp_wink:
(IOW, count the DLs, by hand, if it matters at all; then tag the chain.)


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## nootkaebear (Feb 26, 2013)

fearofpavement said:


> I recently sold a McCulloch PM700 for under $200. That is about the 70cc class as has been mentioned. For a modern saw in that cc range you are looking at used prices of $400 to $550 with some either side of that and new prices starting at $800 for the most part.
> I have some older running Mac 10-10 models that will be going on the block soon and those saws are quite inexpensive and more powerful than what you have. (<$100) No anti-vibe and loud but they cut well. Simple to maintain and lots were made so parts can be had either nos or used.
> Regarding the questions on the splitter, these big "knots" are very challenging to split by hand. Probably can do most of it by manual means but don't "fight" with the tough stuff, cast it aside and go after it with a powered unit later.



I appreciate the input. Would love to go for something around $200 that will do the job. Not worried about the age and/or missing luxuries. I don't know if we will be able to get wood like this often, or if it will turn out to be one of those one time jobs. Either way, not harm in having a 3rd or 4th chainsaw around, but can't see spending a lot of money right now. The trees came from less than a mile away, and it was convenient for us, and the tree man found it convenient to have someplace to take them. Usually, we ask and the people act like we are crazy, offering to take the woord from them. But we always ask, especially when it is close to where we live. 

Do you have any idea how long before you would be willing to part with one of the Mac 10-10's? We still have the wood covered up, as the weather does not want to cooperate, so have it covered really good right now. 

And yes, I understand what you mean about the knots. We have gotten used to taking the wedges, and sledge hammers, and the two of us breaking up the hard to split pieces, but will definitely wait, maybe for quite a long while before splitting the hard to split pieces. In fact, we were talking about cutting the large pieces down just enough to get them into the yard here, and storing them, with no bark on them, in an upright position so that they will be drying, and keep them covered of course. This one, we are playing by ear, thus another reason we have had a hard time taking anyone up on offers to assist us. Nothing worse than showing up someplace to knock out some work, and they are not organized enough for squat. So when there is an offer, and we have yet been unable to get everything worked out, we will normally pass on the assistance, that way, should we be ready and someone offer we will be prepared.


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## nootkaebear (Mar 26, 2013)

*chainsaws*

We have been looking at many chainsaws to assist with our chore.

One:

hello, up for sale is a 044 stihl powerhead dealer rebuilt--new crank-rod--piston--rings--cylinder was good--new bearings--gaskets--seals--fuel system cleaned--new fuel lines--filter--carb kit--dealer didnt clean it up--dirty--scufs--scratches--chips--doesnt look new---runs like new.

I am wondering what I should be cautious on something like the above ad.


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## eat a peach (Mar 26, 2013)

*044*

If it is offered by a dealer it should be ok. If it is presented as dealer refurbished by another owner ask to see paperwork. At least get dealers name to inquire about what work was done. I would ask what the compression is ,it should be at least 145-150 psi for a good working saw.


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## nootkaebear (Mar 26, 2013)

eat a peach said:


> If it is offered by a dealer it should be ok. If it is presented as dealer refurbished by another owner ask to see paperwork. At least get dealers name to inquire about what work was done. I would ask what the compression is ,it should be at least 145-150 psi for a good working saw.



That is good sound advice, I appreciate it!


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