# Check out my old Homelite XL



## JAXJEREMY (Feb 14, 2010)

My uncle gave this saw to me a couple of years back, he bought it back in '81 to cut up some limbs after a storm. Said he fired it up once and then put it away, sat in his storage shed for over 25 yrs. He kept everything including the original manuals, he even had the receipt, paid $91 bucks including tax at k-mart. 

When I got it, the thing pissed oil after it was shut off, so I replaced the duck bill valve in the oil tank but it still leaks when it's sitting. I've had to tinker with the carb to get it stay idling, so I'm guessing it's probably in need of a rebuild.

Anyway, here are some pics..I've used it a couple of times to cut up downed limbs but now that I have two other saws that work well it's just sitting in my shed..

I'm pretty sure it's a 14 inch bar, here are some #'s off the cover, not sure if they can provide any useful info: UT No 10618, Ser. 7C1211095.

Found a guy on ebay that sells parts, but I'm not sure I really want to put a whole lot of $$ into it. Is it worth keeping and trying to fix leaking oil and carb problem or should I get rid of it? Thanks.


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## Arrowhead (Feb 14, 2010)

Very nice! Thats cool you have all the original papers. Those were good little saws.


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## JAXJEREMY (Feb 14, 2010)

Thanks..it was the first saw I ever had, best part is, it was free.


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## joe25DA (Feb 14, 2010)

Keep it. Carb lit and fuel lines is a cheap fix. That saw is in great shape, it was a relatives and you have all the orig paper work.


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## cedarshark (Feb 14, 2010)

I have 2 of these saws and other than the fact they are hard to work on for me because I have such big hands, they are a nice trimming saw. One unique thing is the entire motor slides out of the case after you take the screws out.


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## barneyrb (Feb 14, 2010)

If that saw was purchased new in 1981 then the air filter is gone. For $25 you can put a new air filter, carb kit, lines (oil and fuel), and fuel filter. They are great little trim saws and are very durable. 

I've got a guy that has told me he wants every one I get my hands on. He's got several hands that work for him and it's the only saw they can't tear up (his words, not mine).


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## csx7006 (Feb 14, 2010)

thats a purdy xl with the short handle


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## lawnmowertech37 (Feb 14, 2010)

barneyrb said:


> If that saw was purchased new in 1981 then the air filter is gone. For $25 you can put a new air filter, carb kit, lines (oil and fuel), and fuel filter. They are great little trim saws and are very durable.
> 
> I've got a guy that has told me he wants every one I get my hands on. He's got several hands that work for him and it's the only saw they can't tear up (his words, not mine).



Try $ 20.00


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## DSS (Feb 14, 2010)

Keep it. Its a beauty. Dont see them that nice very often. As was mentioned, those little saws last forever.:greenchainsaw:


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## pioneerguy600 (Feb 14, 2010)

I see a lot of people calling these little Homelites trim saws and they do fit that category's real well but I have a local fella that brings in one almost every fall to have it tuned up. No one else wants to work on them he tells me so I always give it a good going over and it runs remarkably well. Now he uses that little saw to cut up 3-4 cords of firewood each year and has done so with this very saw since around 1980, its a tough one all right.
Pioneerguy600


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## galde (Feb 14, 2010)

There was the XL, the XL-2, and the Super-2. The XL and XL-2 had a smaller engine than the Super-2. The XL used oil tank pressure alone to push oil to the bar, while the XL-2 pushed the oil to a diaphragm-driven oil pump which pushed oil to the bar. The duckbill in the oil tank is attached to the pressurizing line with a porous sleeve that allows oil tank pressure to bleed back into the crankcase. If the duckbill valve is butted tightly against the end of the oil line, then the oil tank pressure will continue to push oil to the bar even after the engine is stopped. There should be at leadt 1/16" of an inch of exposed porous sleeve. The oil flow is regulated by exposing more or less of this sleeve.


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## JAXJEREMY (Feb 14, 2010)

Guess it can't hurt to keep it, not like it's taking up a lot of space. 

You know, I don't think I replaced the air filter, good call.



barneyrb said:


> If that saw was purchased new in 1981 then the air filter is gone. For $25 you can put a new air filter, carb kit, lines (oil and fuel), and fuel filter. They are great little trim saws and are very durable.
> 
> I've got a guy that has told me he wants every one I get my hands on. He's got several hands that work for him and it's the only saw they can't tear up (his words, not mine).



Where can I order this kit for $20 bucks? 



lawnmowertech37 said:


> Try $ 20.00



This is great information, I guess I need to check to see how far I pushed the duck bill on there..I'm willing to bet I pushed it the whole way down. Thanks for all of the help guys.



galde said:


> There was the XL, the XL-2, and the Super-2. The XL and XL-2 had a smaller engine than the Super-2. The XL used oil tank pressure alone to push oil to the bar, while the XL-2 pushed the oil to a diaphragm-driven oil pump which pushed oil to the bar. The duckbill in the oil tank is attached to the pressurizing line with a porous sleeve that allows oil tank pressure to bleed back into the crankcase. If the duckbill valve is butted tightly against the end of the oil line, then the oil tank pressure will continue to push oil to the bar even after the engine is stopped. There should be at leadt 1/16" of an inch of exposed porous sleeve. The oil flow is regulated by exposing more or less of this sleeve.


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## o8f150 (Feb 14, 2010)

i had a super2 a few years ago,,,i cut bunches of wood with it,,,they are tough little saw for sure


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## lawnmowertech37 (Feb 14, 2010)

barneyrb said:


> If that saw was purchased new in 1981 then the air filter is gone. For $25 you can put a new air filter, carb kit, lines (oil and fuel), and fuel filter. They are great little trim saws and are very durable.
> 
> I've got a guy that has told me he wants every one I get my hands on. He's got several hands that work for him and it's the only saw they can't tear up (his words, not mine).



Barney have that guy give me a call i may make him a deal for some super 2 s i have out back


jermil01 i will give you the part # for the package deal it will be a package i put together in one bundle do me a favor tell me if it has the zama carb or the walbro one ?


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## JAXJEREMY (Feb 14, 2010)

I'm 99% sure it's a Walbro, I check this week.



lawnmowertech37 said:


> Barney have that guy give me a call i may make him a deal for some super 2 s i have out back
> 
> 
> jermil01 i will give you the part # for the package deal it will be a package i put together in one bundle do me a favor tell me if it has the zama carb or the walbro one ?


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## lawnmowertech37 (Feb 18, 2010)

jermil01 said:


> I'm 99% sure it's a Walbro, I check this week.



just wondering have you got around to this yet ?


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## FXDL (Feb 18, 2010)

Jermil, if i'm not mistaken i saw your vid on youtube when you first fired it up? that saw is cherry! i would definately keep it! that's about the size of my little poulan 2000. i love that saw! now rather than getting the big ol 6400 out of little stuff i get my 2000 and use for stuff up to 8 inches or so.


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## Sprintcar (Feb 18, 2010)

Great little saw. I think my pa in law has about a dozen or so of those little vibrators. After limbing for about an hour, you'll be ready to put in down and have a cup of coffee. He's also got one of the VI Super 2's, I really could not tell the difference. He still has the first one, an all metal XL, came with a 10 inch bar.


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## JAXJEREMY (Feb 19, 2010)

Not yet, I plan on opening up this weekend.



lawnmowertech37 said:


> just wondering have you got around to this yet ?



Must have been someone else, I haven't posted any vids of it on youtube.



FXDL said:


> Jermil, if i'm not mistaken i saw your vid on youtube when you first fired it up? that saw is cherry! i would definately keep it! that's about the size of my little poulan 2000. i love that saw! now rather than getting the big ol 6400 out of little stuff i get my 2000 and use for stuff up to 8 inches or so.



You're right about the vibration, my hands stay numb for about an hour after using it. 



Sprintcar said:


> Great little saw. I think my pa in law has about a dozen or so of those little vibrators. After limbing for about an hour, you'll be ready to put in down and have a cup of coffee. He's also got one of the VI Super 2's, I really could not tell the difference. He still has the first one, an all metal XL, came with a 10 inch bar.


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## riesenbr549 (Feb 20, 2010)

i got a couple of those . I got one that runs really well . even have the original red box for it!


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## JAXJEREMY (Feb 20, 2010)

Pulled the saw apart today. The last time I used it was probably 2 years ago, so it was pretty filthy. I was digging through my boxes of stuff an found a carb rebuild kit for it that I had never put in. 

Turns out it is a Walbro.







I'm assuming I need a gasket for where the carb mounts to the casing, should I just use gasket maker?






Piston looked ok, didn't seem scorched or anything.






This is the carb after putting the new needle and gaskets in. Should there be some sort of gasket between that black plastic piece(not sure what it's called) and the carb?






This is the duck bill valve that creates the pressure in the oil tank, when I open took it out, that piece made of the pourous material between the valve and the tubing was push all of the way in..I'm guessing that might have been part of my problem with the oil continuing to squirt out even after the saw was off.






I still need a filter and that's about it. Is there anything particular I need to do to adjust the carb? Thanks.


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## Rftreeman (Feb 20, 2010)

back when I first started climbing trees for ROW trimming we used these saws as our climbing trim saws, some of them had the double trigger....nice little saws that would leave your hands tingling for a few after using it...


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## csx7006 (Feb 20, 2010)

Yep i have my super 2 and she runs like a raped #####.


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## JAXJEREMY (Mar 18, 2010)

Okay, I've rebuilt the carb, put in new gaskets, air filter, fuel filter and fuel line. I'm now in the process of putting everything back together. 

My saw has the pressurized oiler and I had been having problems with it pissing oil every time I shut it off. I think I may have found the problem. There is a small nipple that inserts into the oil pickup, this was laying in the bottom of the oil tank, I reinserted it into the pickup when redid the oil lines, so I'll be interested to see if this fixes it.

Anyway, on to the real reason for my post. I noticed that the oil line runs directly underneath the throttle rod for the carb. When I pull the throttle, the rod pushes down a bit on the oil line. Unless I really screwed up, I'm sure the line is routed correctly. I'm just curious if that will do anything to interfere with the oiler.

Also, what steps do I need to take to adjust the carb? Thanks.


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## JasonBmac (Mar 18, 2010)

Nice little XL. I've got a pretty nice XL2 myself.... I'll stick some photos on the end of this post.

The manual for the XL recommends that you loosen the oil cap when you put the saw up, to relieve tank pressure. This has proved reasonably acceptable on my saw, but I keep a few papertowels under it anyway - they're always somewhat incontinent.

Also, that brass fitting on which the duckbill is placed is a porous sintered material, like a filter. The more of it you leave exposed between the duckbill and the oil line, the faster the tank will de-pressurize itself after shut-down. Also provides some oil volume control when running.

For your carb setting, it's pretty simple. Most of these saws only have an idle speed and a Lo needle - the Hi jet is fixed.

Set the Lo needle to about 1.25 turns out from gently seated to start. Fire up your saw and warm it up. The idle will probably be pretty poor (rich).

Slowly turn the Lo needle in. THe idle should begin to smooth out and speed up. At some point, you'll reach a peak, and going further will kill the motor. Back the Lo needle off a little bit (1/8th). 

Now, it's iterative. Allow the saw to idle a while. Goose the throttle. Note how it responds. If it bogs, sucks air, open the Lo needle a touch. If it smokes, coughs, sputters, close the needle a bit. When it'll idle a LONG time (a minute or more) and accelerate cleanly, it's good. Adjust the Idle speed (the other screw) until the chain doesn't run at idle. Revisit the Lo if necessary.

Since these saws have a fixed Hi jet, there's a limit to what you can do on that end. If your saw is quite rich, you can lower the metering lever height under the diaphragm slightly. Mine likes it best about 5 thou below the carb body (spec is even with carb body). Higher is richer, lower is leaner. The saw should 4 cycle at WOT no load, and 2 cycle under load.

Here're a few photos of my XL-2, also a freeby from a friend...


















J


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## JAXJEREMY (Mar 18, 2010)

Jason, great looking saw, and thanks for the information. Question about the brass fitting on the oil line. Is there a benefit to letting the tank de-pressurize faster or slower after shutting down, and if so does mine appear to be in the correct place? Also, will the oil line running right under the throttle rod cause any issues?

Good tip about leaving the oil cap loose. When I was using the saw on a regular basis I would do that, however it didn't seem to help all that much. The thing still pissed oil.

Once I have the rest of the saw back together I'll use you're procedure for setting the carb. 

Thanks again.


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## JAXJEREMY (Mar 18, 2010)

what about spark plug? Is there a particular brand/type I should be using?


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## Metals406 (Mar 18, 2010)

That's a real clean saw there. . . I got a kertrillion XL's and XL2's. I think they're a pretty fun little saw to run.

The first one I ever got was given to me by a friend. . . I had it completely rebuilt for 80 bucks at the local Husky shop, that included a bar and chain.

For ####s and giggles, I cut down a 24" DBH Doug Fir with it on time!! LOL

Talk about a beaver chewing at a stump. Hahahahaha

Also, as stated earlier, loosen the oil cap after use -- it helps some.


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## JasonBmac (Mar 18, 2010)

The specified plug is Champion DJ-7J. 

You got a parts list for this saw? If not, drop me a PM with your email.

I don't recall any difficulty in mine with the oil line interfering with the carb linkage... You certainly should be able to route the lines without interference.... But so long as it's not crushing the line, it should work OK, until it wears a hole in it... You should try to re-route it.

Which oil line anyway? There's a pressure line from the crankcase to the tank, a oil line from tank to the fitting on what became the diaphragm oil pump on later saws, and then the line from there to the bar mount... Shouldn't be any interference in there. The IPL may give you some clues here...

The brass part should let the tank depressurize faster if more of it is exposed. THis would also serve to reduce the oil output (as the tank will be at a lower average pressure)... Honestly, though, mine is a piece of brass tubing now, with no bleed-back. No matter what I did, it always leaked some bar oil. I've come to accept that. The oil rate is similar to the fuel consumption rate, and that's good enuf for me.

I see a few posts back that you were missing the air filter? I made mine by cutting up a replacement Briggs and Stratton foam element so it fit. Cheap and available. I'm sure the OEM is available from somewhere (maybe Calvin?), but I hate buying what I can make.

My intake gaskets are thin cardstock. It works.

Good luck!

J


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## JAXJEREMY (Mar 18, 2010)

I do have a parts list for the saw. Unfortunately, it doesn't show the routing of the oil lines. I only have two lines, the one that is interfering is the one from the tank to the oil fitting that oils the chain. The only way I can see it routing is directly under the throttle rod..I'll snap some pics tonight. 

I was able to find a guy on ebay that sells all the obsolete parts and scored the filter and some other parts from him. Thanks for the spark plug info, I'll snag one of those this weekend.


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## JasonBmac (Mar 18, 2010)

I'll have a boo under the hood of my XL2 too (well, I'll peek in thru the choke lever slot, anyway! The plumbing is very similar.

J


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## DSS (Mar 18, 2010)

Those are cool old saws .Good job on the rebuild. I've always wanted one of those, also a poulan xxv. No, I don't know why, I just think those little top handles are neat. :spam:


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## JasonBmac (Mar 18, 2010)

You want one because they're cool
Under 10 pounds wet
almost all magnesium
simple
Nice styling (sorta sporty lookin', I think)
The XL-2 is both a top handle and a rear handle (2 triggers )
it's fun to accomplish big things with small tools (wife's been sayin' that for years)

and you can get one for next to nothing!

In my neck of the woods, (not far from you, in Southern NB) there is nothing it can't take down. Coastal, very stunted growth. Imagine it's not alot different on the Island....

J


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## HorseShoeInFork (Mar 18, 2010)

daddy66 said:


> Those are cool old saws .Good job on the rebuild. I've always wanted one of those, also a poulan xxv. No, I don't know why, I just think those little top handles are neat. :spam:



I'm not trying to rub it in or anything, but.......


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## DSS (Mar 18, 2010)

HorseShoeInFork said:


> I'm not trying to rub it in or anything, but.......


Ouch.....you are a horrible man....nice diaper on the poulan.


JasonBmac said:


> You want one because they're cool
> Under 10 pounds wet
> almost all magnesium
> simple
> ...



Yeah ,nothing too large on the island ,either. Kind of a nostalgia thing with me. Some older guys I used to go to the woods with when I was young had those top handles. Those guys are all gone now and so are the saws...don't know where all the old saws go on this island, but they are rare. Someday I'll find some, lotsa fun looking anyway...LOL


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## JAXJEREMY (Mar 18, 2010)

Pulled the case apart again and here's how it looks.

Shot of how the oil line was.






Here it is with the rod. You can see how it was pushing down on the oil line.











I was able to rotate the fitting the oil line goes to. This allowed the line to sit further down.





After the fitting was moved you can see the line now passes between that arch in thc rod and it's not interfering. I think this should work.


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## roncoinc (Mar 18, 2010)

HorseShoeInFork said:


> I'm not trying to rub it in or anything, but.......



Well,,i dont either,,but what the heck


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## JasonBmac (Mar 19, 2010)

I got into mine last night too, much to the wife's chagrin... And I think I solved my oil leak too!

Wow, the plumbing on the XL is much simpler than on the XL2... The XL2 has both tank lines ending almost side by side at nipples on the engine casting... They're straight shots. Then a rigid aluminum line from the pump body, around the carb insulator, to the bar mount. 

I was gonna suggest shortening your line a bit... but your solution looks good.

I was messing around last night, and found I could easily pressure test the oil system of my saw using a syringe. I used a 10cc syringe, and blew pressure into the crankcase pressure line, while plugging the oil outlet at the bar mount. Bubbles showed immediately at my cap, so I replaced the dried old cork gasket with an o-ring (Suspected this leaked...). Re-testing showed a pin-hole in the oil line where it entered the pump body... So I replaced that.... And now she tests tight!

Seems that line would slowly dribble oil onto the motor's crankcase, and from there it would slowly run down and out the bottom of the saw case... Messy stuff.

I'll run'er thru some wood tonight and see if it's less incontinent now... That'd be nice!

J


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## JAXJEREMY (Mar 19, 2010)

Luckily my wife was out last night, so I had my 3 1/2 yr old daughter helping and she doesn't seem to mind working in the garage as long as I give her a tool..

So, after I get the new plug, I'm going to gas it up over the weekend, set the carb and see how it does. I forgot these things use 32:1 so I'll need to mix up some gas.

Hopefully the oil line is far enough down that it shouldn't be an issue 

Sounds like you're on the right track in figuring out the cause of the leak. Now you have me thinking I should probably replace the cork gasket on mine too. I'll be interested to hear how that works out.


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## DSS (Mar 19, 2010)

roncoinc said:


> Well,,i dont either,,but what the heck



You got two beauties..................:censored::censored::censored:. Nice old saws, send them along anytime.


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## JasonBmac (Mar 19, 2010)

With the exception of some truely antique 2cycles with bushing big-end bearings, you can run any 2 cycle engine at the ratio the oil itself is rated to be used at.

Personally, I run all my 2 cycles on 32:1, but they're happy on a good 40:1 or 50:1 mix, so long as the oil's good for it.

The o-ring fix was holding pressure last night. Used one that had to be stretched slightly over the plug threads.... I'll likely replace the gas gasket this way too.

J


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## purdyite (May 27, 2010)

OKay...help!!

I have one of these, looks like the XL2, but doesn' SAY XL2, just XL. Has the long handle. It also has two oil lines coming from the oil tank, but also has the diaphragm pump. Both lines go to fittings at the pump--then a third line runs from what looks like a point on the crankcase to the chain oiler fitting near the chain. After disassembling and cleaning, I am not sure about the re-connections. I can't find a document showing exactly where they go... I am not sure if they were right when I started. Can someone show me conclusive evidence of the proper connections? Thanks for any help!


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## jprice88 (May 30, 2015)

Anyone still on this thread willing to lend me a hand? I have inherited an old XL. I can't get it to idle at all. When I adjust it I'm getting no change on my low side. As long as I run the trigger it goes fine but obviously something's up. I cleaned out all the old gas mix and oil added some new, replaced the gas filter. I understand how to adjust them just not exactly sure where else to trouble shoot


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## Eccentric (May 30, 2015)

Could be many things. Fuel line and carb diaphragms are probably toast. Fuel filter may be munged up. Rebuild the carb and put in a new line and filter.

Could also have an air leak somewhere. Intake gaskets are a good place to look. Crank seals are likely culprits too.


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## jprice88 (May 30, 2015)

That's what I was afraid of lol and kind of figured I just didn't know where to start .... I think I'm just going to do a tear down and rebuild


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## Eccentric (May 30, 2015)

You've gotta expect the rubber parts (diaphragms, lines, and crank seals) to all be shot by now. They've been in there for decades....


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## jprice88 (May 30, 2015)

How much would it take to rebuild it?(guessing) 
All major components are fine like I said. The rubber parts and some. Just wondering if it's worth the rebuild... Sounded mean when I was running it but not sure what to do...


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## Adirondackstihl (May 30, 2015)




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## Eccentric (May 30, 2015)

jprice88 said:


> How much would it take to rebuild it?(guessing)
> All major components are fine like I said. The rubber parts and some. Just wondering if it's worth the rebuild... Sounded mean when I was running it but not sure what to do...



Not much. For the crank seals, go to your local Husqvarna dealer and ask for two 530019059 crank seals. Tell 'em they're for a Husqvarna 23C tophandle saw. That was a Poulan Micro series saw that was rebadged for Husky. They take the same seals as these little Homelites (and Homelite E-Z/Super E-Z saws BTW). They'll be something like $4 each from your dealer or any other Husqvarna/Poulan outlet. If for some reason you can't go that route, you can get SKF 4913 seals from a bearing house or auto parts outlet...


There are two intake gaskets that are a couple bucks each on eBay.

Carb kit is less than $10 shipped if you shop around.

Fuel and oil lines are a few bucks.

You'll need two 69451 'duckbill' valves (one for the oil tank pressure line, and one for the fuel tank vent).

You'll need a good sealer (Hondabond-4 or Threebond 1194/1184 will work fine) for the crankcase. A tube is $8-$10 or so and will last you for years.

That's about it. These are simple saws. Be careful to keep the crank bearings on the crank or you'll be hunting down a bunch of TINY needle bearings.


Download and save this Homelite Shop Manual. Read up on the XL/XL2/Super2 section.

http://www.mediafire.com/?300gk1fu7qmk3og

Find the link for the IPL that pertains to your saw based on the UT#.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Homelite-Parts-Manuals-For-Chain-Saws/


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## jprice88 (May 30, 2015)

Awesome info man thank you I have a husky dealer right up the street. I am pulling it apart tomorrow I guess we will see how bad it is. One thing for sure is its filthy it needs a good cleaning just to be able to see what's going on


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## Milkman31 (May 31, 2015)

Nice old saws! This is the two trigger mag case. Used it to cut a limb off our old shed.


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## Adirondackstihl (May 31, 2015)

Milkman31 said:


> View attachment 427885
> Nice old saws! This is the two trigger mag case. Used it to cut a limb off our old shed.


Your shed grows limbs? That's cool!


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## Milkman31 (May 31, 2015)

Adirondackstihl said:


> Your shed grows limbs? That's cool!


It did that day!!!!


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## jprice88 (May 31, 2015)

Eccentric said:


> Not much.
> 
> http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Homelite-Parts-Manuals-For-Chain-Saws/



Hey I just wanted to say thank you again!!! My XL is back in top shape .. After your last advice I tore it all down and rebuild everything ... I have it leaned out and screaming


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## a. palmer jr. (May 31, 2015)

I have a couple of those old Homelites, both say Super 2 on the starter cover but one has been replaced so it's probably an XL. I have no clue of what engines are in either of them though, I always kept a half dozen engines around and if one quits I just stick another one in it. You can't tell much difference between an XL and a Super 2 as far as running goes if they're tuned right.


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## Eccentric (Jun 1, 2015)

jprice88 said:


> Hey I just wanted to say thank you again!!! My XL is back in top shape .. After your last advice I tore it all down and rebuild everything ... I have it leaned out and screaming



Glad to hear. Don't run 'er too lean though. see my sig line...


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## jprice88 (Jun 4, 2015)

Who knows right off hand what bars and chains fit on the homelite? Oregon?


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## woodeneye (Jun 4, 2015)

You can look up your saw by model on Oregon's site and find out what it takes. I've also bought Forester bars for them among others.
http://oregonproducts.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG


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## jprice88 (Jun 4, 2015)

Ut 10618 isn't there on the link


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## ray benson (Jun 4, 2015)

Looking at the Oregon link by woodeneye - the super 2, xl and xl2 all use the same bar.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 4, 2015)

A 14" bar is just about right for the Super 2. It's possible to buy a longer bar but it cuts down the power. I think I have a 20" bar that will fit on a Super 2, I think it came off a 240 or 245 Homelite saw but I never have put it on a saw.


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## woodeneye (Jun 4, 2015)

Yup, just look up by model name, not number. Easy peasy.


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## Eccentric (Jun 8, 2015)

The Oregon mount code for those bars is A061. They are distinctive, having a square/block shaped cutout at the front of the open stud slot.

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...9647a7317852a89b88256e0e001f8a5d?OpenDocument


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 8, 2015)

Eccentric said:


> The Oregon mount code for those bars is A061. They are distinctive, having a square/block shaped cutout at the front of the open stud slot.
> 
> http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...9647a7317852a89b88256e0e001f8a5d?OpenDocument


 Yeah, I don't know how many bars I've filed that little square out of when I didn't have a Homelite bar handy...


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## jprice88 (Jun 14, 2015)

Ok on the Oregon parts site the ut10618 "XL" doesn't show up any help here?


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## Eccentric (Jun 14, 2015)

You using their bar/chain selector utility? Try another model in the series. XL2, Super2, Bandit, etc. As long as the bar as the A061 or T061 mount code you're golden.


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## Eccentric (Jun 14, 2015)

http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG


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## jprice88 (Jun 14, 2015)

Ok so I see a series of xl's listed 10,12,14,16,18 like XL-14 is that based off the original bar?


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## Eccentric (Jun 15, 2015)

No. The original Homelite 'XL' model was the XL-12. Totally different saw than what's been discussed in this thread. The '12' was a reference to the saw's claimed 12 pound dry weight (PHO). 

Homelite has used 'XL' for several different (and unrelated) saw families over the decades. XL-12 series, XL-101 series, XL-1 (E-Z) series, XL-700/800/900 series, XL/XL2/Super2/etc series, etc. The numbers rarely had any relation to any aspect/characteristic of the saws....


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## BrennMan (Aug 9, 2018)

I know this thread is old but it pertains to my situation so perfectly I couldn’t resist reviving it. 

I have (I believe) the same saw as the OP and I am having trouble getting it to run. 

I can get it to fire up on full joke and it will run for 30 seconds or so then die. I cleaned the entire carb and put on a fresh air filter. 

After it dies I have to rechoke it and pull a half dozen times or so then it will fire again and run for 30 seconds or so.

The only thing I can think of is the fact that I don’t have a chain on it current so maybe there isn’t enough “load” on the motor? 

Would you expect this saw to run normally without a chain on? 

Here are some pics for giggles.


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## Adirondackstihl (Aug 9, 2018)

Duck bill valve in the fuel tank is probably mush


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## pioneerguy600 (Aug 9, 2018)

It would run fine without a bar and chain on it. More likely a fuel related issue,anything from a bad /damaged fuel line, tank filter, impulse passage or interior carb problem. Did you replace all the inner carb parts?


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