# Has anyone worn out a chainbrake...?



## techdave (May 19, 2008)

The band, or the pivot, or worn through the drum of the clutch?

just curious, thanks, Dave.


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## Rowan (May 19, 2008)

Kind of....

Dad gave me his Jred590 last year.... the band was toast when I got it. After talking with the local tech, I believe Dad didn't set the break on/off when tightening the chain (centers band on clutch).


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## ropensaddle (May 19, 2008)

No but I don't constantly kick it on and off like most
operators do either. I Only kick it on if traveling or in awkward spots.
It may be better to kick it for safety but I learned with saws that did not
have brakes and have not cut leg ever.


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## 2FatGuys (May 19, 2008)

I have had two fail (break). But I use the chain brake religiously... every time I move or start / stop the saw. They are not hard to replace and are a small price to pay for safety.


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## ropensaddle (May 19, 2008)

I would not let you run my saws, I have seen you guys click click click
more clicking than I can stand, now blipping that is different


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## treemandan (May 19, 2008)

I be smacking the crap out of em, specially the 44 in a tree. I will stop the chain with it sometimes even on the ground. They are easy to replace,easier than taking you to the hospital . You never know if someone is behind you and usually that someone does not move as fast as me. It kind of like setting the brake on a truck, its something that gets done everytime. 
Blipping? Anyone else do shave and a hair cut?


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## Cedarkerf (May 19, 2008)

Ditto everything rope said except Stop the Blipping already


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## treemandan (May 19, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> I would not let you run my saws, I have seen you guys click click click
> more clicking than I can stand, now blipping that is different



I would never let you let me run of your saws. One time I was working on painting crew when I accidently use someone elses paintbrush for the wrong thing. This guy went off on me over 12 dollar brush. I thought he was riduculous at the time but for real, to each his own with good reason.


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## ropensaddle (May 19, 2008)

treemandan said:


> I be smacking the crap out of em, specially the 44 in a tree. I will stop the chain with it sometimes even on the ground. They are easy to replace,easier than taking you to the hospital . You never know if someone is behind you and usually that someone does not move as fast as me. It kind of like setting the brake on a truck, its something that gets done everytime.
> Blipping? Anyone else do shave and a hair cut?



Well see if ya cut yer teeth on saws without brakes you learn to wait
a second for the chain to stop before moving. If I get into the skit it
mode no one is stupid enough to get close Like I have said
I would be taking my saw from you if I kept hearing click click click
you could then be put to doing something like chipping brush!


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## ropensaddle (May 19, 2008)

Now I will tell ya something that may help you while you are going click click click click click I am cutting until I run out of fuel or have cut the entire tree up. I will say you may hear click, if I am moving far but most likely I will kill it move and then start and cut. Those clicks are costing me money I already give a 15 minute break mourning and afternoon and 1 hour lunch and at a dollar a click it is expensive.


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## treemandan (May 19, 2008)

Cedarkerf said:


> Ditto everything rope said except Stop the Blipping already



Ok, Ok. sorry to bother you, see a shrink or something, I'm sorry. Won't let it happen again. hey you got two bits?


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## treemandan (May 19, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> Well see if ya cut yer teeth on saws without brakes you learn to wait
> a second for the chain to stop before moving. If I get into the skit it
> mode no one is stupid enough to get close Like I have said
> I would be taking my saw from you if I kept hearing click click click
> you could then be put to doing something like chipping brush!



Oh yeah, you had to take the brake handle off those little echos to be cool.


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## ropensaddle (May 19, 2008)

treemandan said:


> Oh yeah, you had to take the brake handle off those little echos to be cool.



Like maybe ya need to meet the 2101xp no brakee


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## techdave (May 20, 2008)

*Some of us learned on old gear reduction saws ..*

and saws with no brakes. I used to feel funny using a saw WITH a brake.

Now I would not dream of using one without. Except as an oldsaw demo. Maybe.

Ropensaddle, I dont know aobut the other guys, but I dont brake after each cut, just each move of body position more than 3 steps/10 feet. It wastes no time at all. On longer moves its faster, as i can move faster w/o worrying aobut what's up with the bar and chain. EDIT( or when I am done with a cut and dont have another one planned.)

i agree, stopping after each (non felling) cut woudl be overkill, In most situations i have seen.


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## TimberMcPherson (May 20, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> Now I will tell ya something that may help you while you are going click click click click click I am cutting until I run out of fuel or have cut the entire tree up. I will say you may hear click, if I am moving far but most likely I will kill it move and then start and cut. Those clicks are costing me money I already give a 15 minute break mourning and afternoon and 1 hour lunch and at a dollar a click it is expensive.



Or is that cutting until you run out of appendages? How much does your average chainsaw bite cost? Do you use saw mitts? Are your guys qualified to use saws or just good enough by your standards? Have you done a course on using a saw or are you self taught? 

Those clicks arent any more expensive than tieing in, putting your helmet on, having a tailgate meeting, working in heavy hot expensive PPE, wearing a seatbelt, having insurance etc.
I like the clicks, its going to cost everyone alot more if its not used enough.


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## 2FatGuys (May 20, 2008)

techdave said:


> and saws with no brakes. I used to feel funny using a saw WITH a brake.
> 
> Now I would not dream of using one without. Except as an oldsaw demo. Maybe.
> 
> ...



+1 what he said...

my use of the phrase "I use the chain brake religiously" does not indicate after every cut! I consider a "move" to be a relocation within the tree or change in position on the ground, not a few simple steps as I buck logs or remove brush from downed limbs. One of my partners was a "non-braker", with the same opinion as a few of you ("Heck, we learned without brakes and didn't need them then, so why now?") until he slipped while removing brush and the saw decided that he didn't really need his little toe any more (Yep... he had changed into his work boots from his protective ones because "we were about done".) It's now company policy to use the chain brake that the manufacturers provide us. It's not a *"click-click-click"* world like you think. It's more of a *"cut-cut-cut-step-cut-cut-step-cut-cut-click-reposition-click-cut-cut-step-cut-cut-step-cut-step-cut-cut-step-cut-cut-cut-click-cut-cut-cut"* lifestyle... I really would prefer that my guys stay safe rather than be able to showcase my shiny new brakes on my well worked saws...


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## ckliff (May 20, 2008)

havent worn one out, but.......... one time thought it would be good idea to take it apart & clean it. Never worked after that. Fortunately, early in career on a shindawa 357, now I only use Stihl and have learned.........*if it aint broke dont fix it.*


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## secureland (May 20, 2008)

When I use the brake the chain has allready stopped turning, I think this makes it easier on the band.

Bill


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## southsoundtree (May 20, 2008)

I've seen one worn so thin that it was removed from the saw, flexed a bit, which normally would rebound to the normal shape, but it just bent and stayed bent. 

I suppose this is hard on the clutch and drum as well as the band itself. While these are relatively cheap to replace, I don't think that stopping the chain all the time with the chain brake is a good thing. Let it spin down then pop it on. Slow the chain down on the wood.

Just use good technique. Make sure the throttle interlock, the lever on the pistol grip is working and remove your rear hand to move. Its the same effect as putting on the chainbrake. Use the chainbrake if you feel better about it. Use the chainbrake, in important situations to stop the chain, just not every situation. 

I've never heard about the rest of the mechanism wearing out from popping the chainbrake level on and off for walking or starting.

be safe.


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## ropensaddle (May 20, 2008)

TimberMcPherson said:


> Or is that cutting until you run out of appendages? How much does your average chainsaw bite cost? Do you use saw mitts? Are your guys qualified to use saws or just good enough by your standards? Have you done a course on using a saw or are you self taught?
> 
> Those clicks arent any more expensive than tieing in, putting your helmet on, having a tailgate meeting, working in heavy hot expensive PPE, wearing a seatbelt, having insurance etc.
> I like the clicks, its going to cost everyone alot more if its not used enough.



Well I will try to answer yer questions I started using them in 82
professionally and in that time elapsed, have never cut myself.
I cut many years before getting chaps as the company did not have 
and then did and were mandatory etc. Yeah training, more than many
on this site and never once was said anything of click. I do set brake
on occasion in a tree as far as moving on the ground, I have a kill switch
and know its proper use and know how to carry a saw more than many,
blade to rear muffler out, not the axeman way but proper. What all this
zazz it about is, protecting you from your own bad practices including
chaps! I have seen some look like shredded meat and that is definitely,
someone that should never have been let at the helm of a saw.
When I started my career, foremen would ground you from all saw
use if they noticed something stupid. I have seen full time chipper
men that were only let use one once. I when made a foreman in
88 was the same, if you are a sloth or slow headed you did not run
a saw. I know this may sound extreme and all but I have never had 
a loss time injury or any men under my supervision in the 18 or so
years of supervising tree work.


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## Cedarkerf (May 20, 2008)

TimberMcPherson said:


> Or is that cutting until you run out of appendages? How much does your average chainsaw bite cost? Do you use saw mitts? Are your guys qualified to use saws or just good enough by your standards? Have you done a course on using a saw or are you self taught?
> 
> Those clicks arent any more expensive than tieing in, putting your helmet on, having a tailgate meeting, working in heavy hot expensive PPE, wearing a seatbelt, having insurance etc.
> I like the clicks, its going to cost everyone alot more if its not used enough.


Yes I was trained way back 1979 1980 learned to climb with single wire core manila rope come to a branch untie go over it retie. Learned an aluminum hard hat and loggin corks were PPE . Learned to carry big saw on shoulder. Use the chain brake if you were making a major move on saws that had them. Use the brake after the chain stops. Like rope maybe I come from a differant time.Standard PNW logging techniques are what we were taught. Got my first set of chaps 2 years ago and use them. Now use a full climbing saddle with new style flip lines. Wear safety glasses and ear plugs. 30 plus years of good technique only injury was hit by some ones broken chain from 30 feet away which cut my wrist so I put a band aid on it. Read about guys tearing up thier chaps regularly which leads me to believe a lotta poor technique is out there. I understand the occasional nick in the chaps but guys keep asking how many times can I hit my chaps before I replace them. The only marks in my jeans from 30+ years of cutting were nicks from non running chainsaw moving it around. I do use the brake a lot up in trees because of the limited area. If not being a break clicker makes me a bad cutter oh well tear me up technique police.


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## Bermie (May 20, 2008)

Never worn one out, never come close, all my saws get a chainbrake workout. All my saws run well. 
Chainbrake assembly and clutch drum get an inspection and cleaning (gook scrapped off and a blow out with the compressor) at least once a month, no excessive wear has ever been evident.
No nicks in MY chainsaw pants, except from my spikes.


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## trecutter5 (May 21, 2008)

*broke chain band !!!*

I have worn a few out on a 440 myself, cause! Breaking in high revs. Either the brake band or the drum. When people are around me, I dont care the break is going on.. Fast pace, close quarters.. Better safe than sorry... Anything less is irresponsible! 

Okay guys, I have no problem with what everyone is saying, but you guys can tell my boss the 3 time lenght rule. He is a hurry up, hurry up, lets get it done!!!! Come on lets go!!!! So as soon as the mexicans stop reaching into my cutting area, I'll stop using the break!!! All in the name of money! Again, better a break band than someones arm!!!


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## ropensaddle (May 21, 2008)

trecutter5 said:


> I have worn a few out on a 440 myself, cause! Breaking in high revs. Either the brake band or the drum. When people are around me, I dont care the break is going on.. Fast pace, close quarters.. Better safe than sorry... Anything less is irresponsible!



Ok first rule in chainsawing no one closer than three times that sawyers reach. Second fast pace, presto; we have a jackpot, a controlled well planed out pace with a machine capable of doing great bodily harm is responsible, not click,click,clickity,click,click,click. The thing is designed to stop the chain in the event,event of kickback. Click, click,clickity,click is wearing out your safety margin ,so when the big kickback occurs, it may just fail ! A kill switch was designed to stop the saw for transporting in thick cover and at final use so use them for their design and save the click for when it counts.


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## clearance (May 21, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> Ok first rule in chainsawing no one closer than three times that sawyers reach. Second fast pace, presto; we have a jackpot, a controlled well planed out pace with a machine capable of doing great bodily harm is responsible, not click,click,clickity,click,click,click.
> The thing is designed to stop the chain in the event,
> event of kickback. Click, click,clickity,click is wearing out your safety margin ,so when the big kickback occurs, it may just fail ! A kill switch was designed to stop the saw for transporting in thick cover and at final use so use them for their design and save the click for when it counts.



I agree Rope. I started when brakes were around ('87). I was told they were for emergencies that came from being careless. I didn't know they were being used like a tv remote by some. Carry the saw properly. Buck properly. Don't wear the poor thing out, you might actually need it one day.


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## lt1nut (May 23, 2008)

First time I used saws was in '85 or so, in high school while doing maintenance at a summer camp. I don't remember if any of those had brakes on them but imagine they did. I WAS taught to never move with my right hand on the saw, unless it was on the loop handle, and to shut it off if I was climbing around a pile or my feet were not firmly planted. Years late I had the opportunity to run a heavy, old, light bluish colored saw, Homie or Partner(?), and did not do so out of my love for personal longevity. I believe that one did not have a brake.

I will admit that I do not always follow the "no right hand while moving" rule but at the least I treat it like a gun and put my trigger finger outside of the rear handle. I also feel guilty when I don't follow it. Heel, I don't even know if my saws will start with the brake on but I don't think so....


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## treemandan (May 23, 2008)

ropensaddle said:


> Ok first rule in chainsawing no one closer than three times that sawyers reach. Second fast pace, presto; we have a jackpot, a controlled well planed out pace with a machine capable of doing great bodily harm is responsible, not click,click,clickity,click,click,click. The thing is designed to stop the chain in the event,event of kickback. Click, click,clickity,click is wearing out your safety margin ,so when the big kickback occurs, it may just fail ! A kill switch was designed to stop the saw for transporting in thick cover and at final use so use them for their design and save the click for when it counts.



That is one thing that has plagued me too but I overcame that problem by regularly inspecting my chit. Here is the song I attribute to using the break like a teenaged boy uses acne cream, 2 songs actually:
Smack that f-ing chain break white boy 
Smack that f-ing chain break now
Oh smack that F-ing chain break white boy
Lay down and boogie and smack that f-ing break before you die!
I am allowed to use the term" white boy" well, cause I am a white boy. Anybody else using it would be a racist and would offend me.
The other is to the theme to Wheel of Fortune goes like- I'm a break slapper, I'm a break slapper, I'm a break slapper, Oh I forget the rest. But i do sing those songs as I bring the chain to a abrupt halt making my saw grunt like the hog it is while i lean way out on one spike to see if my cut is on target before I commit to being sorry I didn't.
Also I like it when I start to Ginsu up a tall spruce and all I got is my lanyard and my headphones blasting 'Don't Fear the Reaper'. I don't like to let my rope hang on stuff like that.want to see some one handing?


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## treemandan (May 23, 2008)

lt1nut said:


> First time I used saws was in '85 or so, in high school while doing maintenance at a summer camp. I don't remember if any of those had brakes on them but imagine they did. I WAS taught to never move with my right hand on the saw, unless it was on the loop handle, and to shut it off if I was climbing around a pile or my feet were not firmly planted. Years late I had the opportunity to run a heavy, old, light bluish colored saw, Homie or Partner(?), and did not do so out of my love for personal longevity. I believe that one did not have a brake.
> 
> I will admit that I do not always follow the "no right hand while moving" rule but at the least I treat it like a gun and put my trigger finger outside of the rear handle. I also feel guilty when I don't follow it. Heel, I don't even know if my saws will start with the brake on but I don't think so....



If I treated my saw like i treat my gun I would be dead! I just open the door and its BAM BAM BAM. Finger comes off the trigger when I reload.


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## SpiralAcacia (May 30, 2008)

*Yes it did happen to me*

Wore the band thin till it seperated from the end bit (Not the end that pulls on the spring).


Why? Probably misuse... :monkey: 

Got the part, put it in, went on cutting.

Can post a pic of the worn band if anybody cares to see...


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## Job Corps Tree (May 30, 2008)

*has anyone worn out a Chain brake*

Our Trainees are real bad for that Click, click ,stuff . they think it is a ON, OFF switch not a safety device, out at the local Botanical garden the don't want anyone to use the chain break. I look for something in the middle. just like your Breaks on a car or truck if you use it up it don;t work when you need them. I have an 1984 saw bought new beat he!! out of it over time, never had a bad brake don't have any one using it but me . When it Kicks I know it will lock and not get me. Use it to often it may not work when you need it!! all parts will wear how you use them will tell how long they will work for you. It is not a Lite switch it is a Safety Device. Now if I could get my Students to understand that I would not have to repair so many saws. PS lost 2 on some else's small saws I guess those of us that did not have chain brakes in the beginning don't use them as much


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## stihl sawing (May 30, 2008)

The old saws i ran for years never had a chain brake. When i'm cuttin, there better be no one around me. I will let people know to stay back while the saw is running.


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