# Hauling Rounds on ATV



## svk (Feb 7, 2017)

I have a few ideas of what to do but the members of AS always impress me with their ingenuity for things like this. 

Does anyone have a good setup? Due to terrain, my trailer cannot get back to a couple of my scrounge areas and I would rather not drag logs through mud and gravel.


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## reddogrunner (Feb 7, 2017)

Nuthin here. Just heft them into the back of the UTV. I also have a small 4x8 trailer that can haul about 1000lbs.


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## svk (Feb 7, 2017)

I had a Polaris 6x6 that I really regret selling when I had moved out of state. So much more versatile than my current 4 wheeler.


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## reddogrunner (Feb 7, 2017)

Receiver hitch? Use a cargo tray. I have a pretty sweet little John Deer trailer with big fat tires that is about twice the size of a wheelbarrow. It's handy behind the 2wd quad


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## svk (Feb 7, 2017)

This is a 2000 model year so pre receiver hitch.


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## sirbuildalot (Feb 7, 2017)

You could:

* Carry them, if they're too heavy

then you could:

* Use a single wheel wheelbarrow

or:

* Make a wooden sled and pull the rounds to your trailer on it. For rounds to large or heavy to get in the trailer, you could roll them up a ramp


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## triptester (Feb 7, 2017)

I made a trailer that hauls my ATV that is only 2 1/2" wider than the ATV. If the ATV fits the trailer generally does also.


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## svk (Feb 7, 2017)

I apologize. I should add a little color.

These sites are 1/4 to 3/4 mile off the road and are accessible by ATV trails only. A trailer is not an option due to the terrain of the trail. Any type of drag would literally get ripped to shreds on the rocks. The further trail does have some mud holes too which are a challenge for a fully loaded ATV let alone a heavily loaded trailer. I could drag them out in log form but it it very difficult on the driver, atv, and log to skid over rocks.

Burr oak is virtually impossible to come by in my neck of the woods therefore it is worth the time to bring this stuff out.


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## crzybowhntr (Feb 7, 2017)

Do you have to cut at that particular site? That's an awful lot of work...


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## Erik B (Feb 7, 2017)

If you are looking at getting the wood out during the winter, a Jet Sled or something similar would work.


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## sledge&wedge (Feb 7, 2017)

I ran into the same issue you are having... I wish I could give you (and me) some sort of awesome solution but I ultimately decided to just leave it lay because it wasn't worth the work.


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## sirbuildalot (Feb 7, 2017)

What about a walking beam trailer? they can climb over rocks, logs, bumps, ruts, etc. You could load it half way. I see you said you have no receiver hitch. There is no rack at all on your ATV?


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## sirbuildalot (Feb 7, 2017)

What about a couple dozen drones with lifting straps???


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 7, 2017)

Pictures of the site would help.
Here are some photos but from your last post it does not sound like this is an option. Possibly if lightly loaded?

Not a fan of dragging stuff myself. 
If you can fabricate then space saver spares, and spindles off the back of front wheel drive cars are an option. 
Four bolts and they are yours for pretty cheap at most junk yards. The junkyard near me uses two of them per wheel barrow for customers to get their toolboxes and parts in and out of the junkyard. But you could make most anything out of them.
This is what I have used, and found...
Note however, the terrain here is surprisingly flat. A log arch or loaded trailer can have a lot of push behind it. I'm certain I have pulled maybe 1,500 lbs., possibly more.

A log arch is nice, but are a limited use, specialized piece of equipment. You still need the trailer to clean up the smaller limb wood.

A trailer is far more versatile for all sizes of firewood, and and of course many other things. 
Our trailer is loaded with splits weekly, and parked in the garage most of the winter. Summers we use it for moving firewood, bark/mulch, yard work, and sometimes as a temporary or mobile work bench.

There are walk beam axles and torsion axles. This trailer has torsion axles. Nice when unhooked, as it sits pretty level, and it can be moved about. Not so good traversing steep berms or road side banks, as all the weight can at moments be carried by one axle, the other air born, either front or back depending. It also has an electric dump. This brand is no longer available but there are others very much like it that are. Very handy tool connected to a quad. After ten years, the initial cost is mute. (Actually the cost has almost doubled in ten years time)


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## sundance (Feb 7, 2017)

svk said:


> This is a 2000 model year so pre receiver hitch.



Should be after market hitches available. I added one to my 2001 Polaris sportsman. A trailer like below maybe? Mines pretty handy. Different brand, don't recall off the top of my head. 


http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/700x700/125/125707_700x700.jpg

I've got to believe that any plan to actually haul 1/4 to 3/4 mile on the ATV itself just won't move enough wood to bother.


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 7, 2017)

What size dia. are you talking?
Would it be possible to make a trailer like a log arch with a high backbone utilizing receiver tube. The deck and side stakes would be above the tires and 10' logs loaded length wise. The walk beam axles could be pinned anywhere along the length of the back bone, five feet from the quad, or, ten feet to fifteen feet from the quad. Basically a deckover with a sliding log arch style hitch. The idea being to keep the quad out of the holes the same time the load is in one.


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 7, 2017)

Another idea would be to build a trailer with live power axles. Good luck figuring that out...


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## sirbuildalot (Feb 7, 2017)

It does seem as though a trailer is a good way to go here. If the ATV can make the trail, then a trailer should as well. Even a half load would be better than nothing.


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## sirbuildalot (Feb 7, 2017)

Another thing with the log arch is you could make a steel skid plate out of fairly thick stock that attaches to the end of the log that will drag on the ground, to keep it from getting chewed up. Rocks aren't going to tear up steel.


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## svk (Feb 7, 2017)

crzybowhntr said:


> Do you have to cut at that particular site? That's an awful lot of work...


Those are the only spots that oak grow anywhere around my cabin. And compared to burning aspen (or birch at best), burr oak is worth the extra work.


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## svk (Feb 7, 2017)

Again, a log arch or trailer (even one with high clearance) is simply out of the question for these areas. I'm looking for what kind of racks folks have used. I've already devised a set of metal framed/wood sided racks to fasten to both front and rear factory racks but want to see what others are doing so I can incorporate those ideas into the design. I've also developed a plan for canoe/ladder racks to drop into the rack frame.


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## svk (Feb 7, 2017)

Sandhill Crane said:


> What size dia. are you talking?
> Would it be possible to make a trailer like a log arch with a high backbone utilizing receiver tube. The deck and side stakes would be above the tires and 10' logs loaded length wise. The walk beam axles could be pinned anywhere along the length of the back bone, five feet from the quad, or, ten feet to fifteen feet from the quad. Basically a deckover with a sliding log arch style hitch. The idea being to keep the quad out of the holes the same time the load is in one.


Talking 6" to 18" diameter rounds. Mostly 8-14" diameter.


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## GrizzlyAdams86 (Feb 7, 2017)

Done this more than a few times when I don't have the little dump trailer with me. I'll even do this with the trailer if I have to haul the wood over a distance for less trips. 4-5 round trips is about a pickup load just tossed in the box. I do put sticks in the grab handles on the back rack to help keep the wood from shifting around. But if on slopes/hillsides/inclines I don't go as high.


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## reddogrunner (Feb 7, 2017)

cut those buggers in 4 footish sections and strap 2 to the front and 2 to the back or whatever your quad can handle and off you go.


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## Jere39 (Feb 7, 2017)

GrizzlyAdams86 said:


> View attachment 556636
> 
> 
> Done this more than a few times when I don't have the little dump trailer with me. I'll even do this with the trailer if I have to haul the wood over a distance for less trips. 4-5 round trips is about a pickup load just tossed in the box. I do put sticks in the grab handles on the back rack to help keep the wood from shifting around. But if on slopes/hillsides/inclines I don't go as high.



How is the steering with that load on the front? I'm not an expert on various models of ATV, does that one have steering assist? My ATV, a 2002 Bombardier does not, and I would not relish rock hopping with an extra 100 lbs on the front, even for a half mile. On a trail, no problem, but with roots, rocks, gullys, logs, and the like that require crawling over, and deft steering around, I probably wouldn't try on mine.


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## svk (Feb 7, 2017)

Thank you Grizzly! I'm thinking something along those lines.


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## crzybowhntr (Feb 7, 2017)

svk said:


> Those are the only spots that oak grow anywhere around my cabin. And compared to burning aspen (or birch at best), burr oak is worth the extra work.


I can understand your willingness now. Other than making a monstrous rack extension for the front and rear to haul rounds on, I'm at a loss for ideas if you can't use a small trailer.


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## crzybowhntr (Feb 7, 2017)

I got it. A cannon that shoots your rounds to the truck...


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## panolo (Feb 7, 2017)

Depending on the year, make, and model there are some drop racks out there. Otter sled with a net over the top. You can pretty much pull one down a gravel at 60 if it has slide runners and it won't wear out. They make a straight hookup so it won't flex and tip. Otherwise your probably racking it out like Grizzly posted.


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## Shanen Mannies (Feb 7, 2017)

Well ,this is how I go about getting them to the main trails. Go Devil on the front, but you may put something under the back and pull the front with the atv.


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## Shanen Mannies (Feb 7, 2017)

If you are going to have access to area for long term, maybe some improvements to the trails would be a possibility


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## Wowzer (Feb 7, 2017)

I've seen a picture somewhere, were buddy has beefed up his back rack and put a gooseneck style hitch and then taken a solid axle out of a 3 wheeler and then made a box like a live bottom floor trailer looked to be around 3ft wide narrowed to 2ft and 30 something inches long. This way if you had clearance on your quad you should have clearance on the trailer.


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## svk (Feb 7, 2017)

That sounds pretty cool.

My issue isn't clearance as much as it is fast changes in terrain. I have to go through a beaver flowage as well as a couple of cricks coming off hillsides. You literally go straight down one incline, through the mud and back straight up again. ATV has all that it can take to get through by itself so it couldn't do much pulling a trailer. Without those three spots I could take my Sears yard wagon back there.


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## merc_man (Feb 8, 2017)

If terrain is that bad id be worried about being too high center of gravity if i were to load atv with wood. Also if ypu barly get through empty may get real trick loaded.

Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk


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## sledge&wedge (Feb 8, 2017)

svk said:


> That sounds pretty cool.
> 
> My issue isn't clearance as much as it is fast changes in terrain. I have to go through a beaver flowage as well as a couple of cricks coming off hillsides. You literally go straight down one incline, through the mud and back straight up again. ATV has all that it can take to get through by itself so it couldn't do much pulling a trailer. Without those three spots I could take my Sears yard wagon back there.



I was going to recommend @GrizzlyAdams86 solution from above and offer up that I have done it that way a few times as well... Then I read this post about the terrain you are dealing with. Based on my several years worth of experience trying to carry/haul things I shouldn't be carrying/hauling on a fourwheeler, I would venture to guess you won't make it very far with splits strapped to the racks. Maybe you should move your house out to the oak trees


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## NSMaple1 (Feb 8, 2017)

Any pics of this trail?

I am thinking that any trail you couldn't pull some kind of trailer through, and your ATV will barely make it through, won't be very safe to try with wood piled up on the racks.

A walking beam trailer is the answer for rough ground - but all trailer/tow vehicle combos do have their limits when it comes to hills & loss of traction. I have spun out a time or two with mine, with not much load on it - I have also been up on two wheels unexpectedly a time or two with not much weight on the racks. (I keep 2 saws, gas & oil on the front, and have a box/passenger seat on the back with all kinds of other stuff in it). If I was going to try wood on the racks, I would just solidly bolt a plastic tote on each rack, and start with small loads - at least the weight will gain you traction, and help keep the wheels on the ground going up & down hills, but the side to side pitches could bite you badly.


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## msvold (Feb 8, 2017)

I agree that carrying on a 4 wheeler on steep terrain you wont get far. Perhaps you need to use a combination of the good ideas. Start with Trail improvement, drag logs to steep trails, winch across the steep trails then either drag or trailer from there. Burr Oak will make you figure it out, but I suspect now it's more of the challenge thrown at you, keep us up to date with your progress.


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## sirbuildalot (Feb 8, 2017)

Sounds like a good excuse to get a side by side


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## codygary12 (Feb 8, 2017)

Let's look at time involved here, besides the time to cut/split/stack/ the wood on the racks of the 4wheeler pictured above how long will it take to get out to the drop site and back to the cutting site, realistically I would have to think 35-40minutes if the terrain is like you say. Add another 20minutes to c/s/s and unload the trailer and you're at minimum and hour per 4wheeler, and what can that haul, 1/5th Face Cord? 1/12th full cord at best? So it'll take 2 days going hard to get a full cord out? How much fuel is the wheeler/saws using? 

Im always up for hard work and a challenge but I'd have to think in yhis situation getting a semi load hauled in would be the best way to go.


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## Wowzer (Feb 8, 2017)

any chance you can get some 10 or 12 ft pallets out there and make up some little bridges? temporary solution. we do it in the one bush during the spring and fall to get over the one creek if not them you have to go right around the bush, a good 20 to 30 min ride on a ATV or UTV?

We have also used the the 4x4 pos stakes to secure a little bridge. but all depends on land owner and scenario. maybe snap up some photos for us?


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## kodiak (Feb 8, 2017)

I was going to recommend a Polaris 6x6 but then I saw you mentioned you used to have one. Too bad...


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## Jere39 (Feb 8, 2017)

Sounds like you need to invest a little time and build yourself one of these over your beaver swamp and cricks:


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## GrizzlyAdams86 (Feb 8, 2017)

Jere39 said:


> How is the steering with that load on the front? I'm not an expert on various models of ATV, does that one have steering assist? My ATV, a 2002 Bombardier does not, and I would not relish rock hopping with an extra 100 lbs on the front, even for a half mile. On a trail, no problem, but with roots, rocks, gullys, logs, and the like that require crawling over, and deft steering around, I probably wouldn't try on mine.



It's a 1998 model, so no steering assist. Only gets hauled as high as in the picture on level ground or on decent trails. I'm not as crazy on a ATV as I used to be.


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## Woody912 (Feb 8, 2017)

svk said:


> I have a few ideas of what to do but the members of AS always impress me with their ingenuity for things like this.
> 
> Does anyone have a good setup? Due to terrain, my trailer cannot get back to a couple of my scrounge areas and I would rather not drag logs through mud and gravel.



I would love to have a log arch, I hook a 10 cubic foot utility trailer behind my tractor, probably haul 800# with good tires.


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## svk (Feb 8, 2017)

Appreciate the thoughts.

A few of you kind of mentioned the same thing so I'll answer without quoting everyone.

The issue is not tipping over, it is going through mud and also up and down quick changes in grade that would high center a trailer (on the further trail). On the closer trail it is the large amount of rocks to drive over/around that would preclude use of a SxS atv or trailer. Yes, I have owned and driven SxS wheelers and I am certain I could get them back there but the time needed to walk them over the obstacles would not make it worthwhile.

As I have stated this is not a money making ordeal as I know it would be easier and more time effective to scrounge up more of the lesser species close to home. The further batch of wood would more be gathered when I am already back there on a pleasure ride or when hunting in the fall. Just want to be able to multi task and scrounge up the best that ma nature has to offer.

Secondly I am already going to incorporate canoe racks into the rack I build which was already planned. The racks will be more or less permanent so I can scrounge by ATV whenever I come across anything worth bringing home.


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## Wowzer (Feb 8, 2017)

Ok. one last Hail Mary here

You build a sled out of say 1" tube and skin it with UHMW plastic. More or less like a sled. And you couple it to your atv with the below photo. Now the tricky part with the sled you need to do it out of 1 sheet of plastic to keep it water tight. So probably at least 3/8" because that way you can saw cut about 1/4 the way through and bend. More than half and you won't have enough meat to take a beating of rocks over time. 

But if you can find someone with a plastic welder probably be better. But has to be weld with UHMW rod you can't use HDPE they will bond but as soon as they hit cold they separate. 

you need to find a way for it to rotate like a PTO shaft so the sled can stay on the ground. While the hitch below can go up and down side to side. You need it to be able to rotate on the flats. 

what do you think?


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## Cody (Feb 9, 2017)

There aren't any other paths you can make to get back there? I'd go an extra mile out of the way if it meant I could have a trailer/haul 6x as much wood out.


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## ReggieT (Feb 9, 2017)

sirbuildalot said:


> What about a couple dozen drones with lifting straps???


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## tla100 (Feb 9, 2017)

Small tractor and drag out in logs. Sorry, atv is a little undersize for haulin heavy loads IMO.


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## NSMaple1 (Feb 9, 2017)

Heavy loads, yes.

But depends on the situation.

I take my ATV into spots that I couldn't get into with a tractor. And it goes a LOT faster in between the bad spots.


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 9, 2017)

Interesting project to problem solve. 
Another thought. 
Perhaps do it in short log form, moving them in stages. Rig a high line of some type, capstan winch puller, and using two people for the difficult spots, one on each end. Tie a tag line on for the person rigging to retrieve the pulling line. 
Doing it that way would partially depend on whether you could leave it set up at those spots, or if your gear would get ripped off.
Sounds like a pig roast GTG weekend is in order at the very least.


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## mudfly (Feb 9, 2017)

SVK - Its winter, you are in MN. Go while its frozen with a snowmobile and sled. Or your 4 wheeler pulling a sled. Or we have been known to take our old farm truck down 4 wheeler trails in the winter. The ground is hard, you can go anywhere.

If there is too much snow right now (not sure exactly where you are in MN), wait until March when it thaws a little and then freezes. The snow crust gets hard enough you can practically drive a small tractor on top of it. Winter roads are often way smoother anyway since the snow will cover the rocks and dips that you are so worried about.

Look at how logging used to be done up here. small winter roads everywhere, go pack a trail now and it will be good to go in a week or two.


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## svk (Feb 9, 2017)

Sandhill-good thinking but this is too far and the tough spots are too far apart. I think the rack is the ticket as I can get a little each time I am traveling through.

Mudfly-my hope is to get the wood from the further back spot (with mud holes) as soon as the snow recedes. Even with the warm winter there is probably 18" of snow in the woods right now and I only have a wheeler currently, no snowmobile.


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## svk (Feb 9, 2017)

Wowzer said:


> Ok. one last Hail Mary here
> 
> You build a sled out of say 1" tube and skin it with UHMW plastic. More or less like a sled. And you couple it to your atv with the below photo. Now the tricky part with the sled you need to do it out of 1 sheet of plastic to keep it water tight. So probably at least 3/8" because that way you can saw cut about 1/4 the way through and bend. More than half and you won't have enough meat to take a beating of rocks over time.
> 
> ...


This u joint would be great to connect my snowmobile sleigh to my ATV if I had a receiver hitch.


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## svk (Feb 9, 2017)

Off the original topic but if anyone needs visuals of ATV accessories to make your own, this is a good site.

http://www.countryatv.com/


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## svk (Feb 9, 2017)

Did some digging and a receiver hitch isn't an option for my ATV unless I was to use one of these universal hitches. And the downside there is you cannot put any back pressure on it without the bolt coming unscrewed OR you have to weld it to the current ball hitch mount. Not exactly thrilled with welding to a cast piece of metal which isn't all that strong to start with.


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## Wowzer (Feb 9, 2017)

What's the year and model on your ATV. maybe you can make up your own plate something like this>?


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## svk (Feb 9, 2017)

2000 yamaha kodiak. It has a traditional axle and that plate will not work.


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## mudfly (Feb 9, 2017)

svk said:


> Mudfly-my hope is to get the wood from the further back spot (with mud holes) as soon as the snow recedes. Even with the warm winter there is probably 18" of snow in the woods right now and I only have a wheeler currently, no snowmobile.



18 inches - That's about what I have at home too. Start packing in a trail by walking it. Snowshoes if you need to otherwise it usually just takes me 2 trips in and out to pack a trail wide enough (4 sets of foot prints side by side) for my wheeler to get thru after a couple of days freezing. I just have a 2 wheel drive wheeler and I get by just fine with it on a packed trail.

FYI - any more snow than about 18 inches and I use a snowmobile to pack it down. Borrow one if you need to, it will take you 45 minutes at most and you will have a beautiful trail after 1 night of freezing temps. Or just get a tobogan and pull that with 20 to 30 pounds on it to pack. Once its packed you can pull any trailer or sled you want down it, or just use your wheeler like you planned.


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## NSMaple1 (Feb 9, 2017)

Tire chains may also help immensely.


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## svk (Feb 9, 2017)

The wood is also hidden/frozen at this point LOL. I will stick to my original plan of getting it when I am back there for other reasons.


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## sledge&wedge (Feb 10, 2017)

svk said:


> The wood is also hidden/frozen at this point LOL. I will stick to my original plan of getting it when I am back there for other reasons.



Alright I have you a solution that will be easier than moving your house back there. Buy about a mile or so of triple wall pipe, and all the materials you need to build an OWB. Burn the oak on site and just pipe the heat home. Oh and you're gonna need a pretty strong blower, too.

I prefer to be paid in cash for my consulting services so just let me know when you're headed towards Indiana.


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## svk (Feb 10, 2017)

Lol. Thermopex looses heat at one degree per 100 feet so it will still be above freezing when it gets to the houses.


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## merc_man (Feb 10, 2017)

svk said:


> 2000 yamaha kodiak. It has a traditional axle and that plate will not work.


Take a pic of the back of the atv so we can see if someone can come up with an idea for a hitch receiver.

Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk


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## svk (Feb 10, 2017)

merc_man said:


> Take a pic of the back of the atv so we can see if someone can come up with an idea for a hitch receiver.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk


I thought that through the other night. 

A guy just needs to unbolt the cast hitch and fabricate a steel hitch to bolt into place.


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## svk (Feb 10, 2017)

I'll post a pic when I get the wheeler out later. It's a pretty Mickey Mouse design considering what Yamaha normally does.


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## merc_man (Feb 10, 2017)

svk said:


> I thought that through the other night.
> 
> A guy just needs to unbolt the cast hitch and fabricate a steel hitch to bolt into place.


Mine had a cheasy flat hitch (no 2" receiver) i made a recever for it. Then over worked when jerkin logs out. I did a quick ugly reinforcing repair to get me back goin that day and been goin strong since. 
Im sure with all us on here we could figire somethin out. 

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## svk (Feb 10, 2017)

What I really should do is buy another wheeler that's a little newer and already has one. 

I have to see what the kids are thinking for fall sports. If a few of them are going to be free on weekends I may do that. I could cash in a few chainsaws and cover most of the cost.


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## Cody (Feb 11, 2017)

svk said:


> What I really should do is buy another wheeler that's a little newer and already has one.
> 
> I have to see what the kids are thinking for fall sports. If a few of them are going to be free on weekends I may do that. I could cash in a few chainsaws and cover most of the cost.



Man, an Arctic Cat TBX sure would be slick in that situation, there not much cheaper than a side by side though.


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## Gypo Logger (Feb 11, 2017)




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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 12, 2017)

Trail upgrade sounds like the way to go. Several years ago Cantoo mentioned that the snowmobile trails near him have utilized old semi flatbed trailers as bridges. Now that would be a project. You could use large timbers like crane mats are made of, and bolted up. Salvaged bar joists, steel beams, etc.


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## svk (Feb 12, 2017)

I could just fill the ruts with Aspen logs!


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## panolo (Feb 12, 2017)

I'll have the boys take a pic of the hitch setup we used on those 400's. It's all we ran for shop machines and we would load them down so heavy I would have to sit on the front rack to steer. One of the best ATV's ever built.


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## sundance (Feb 13, 2017)

Cody said:


> Man, an Arctic Cat TBX sure would be slick in that situation, there not much cheaper than a side by side though.


I'm missing what separates it from most ATV's?


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## panolo (Feb 13, 2017)

Thousands of boats, trailers, watercraft hauled.


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## merc_man (Feb 13, 2017)

sundance said:


> I'm missing what separates it from most ATV's?


The box instead of a back rack

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## merc_man (Feb 13, 2017)

merc_man said:


> The box instead of a back rack
> 
> Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk








Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk


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## panolo (Feb 13, 2017)

Polaris made one as well. The ATP.


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## polerpoker (Feb 13, 2017)

Buck it and stack it in the summer, pick it up with your sled in the winter.


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## Cody (Feb 14, 2017)

merc_man said:


> The box instead of a back rack
> 
> Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk



I believe it's also around a foot longer wheelbase, that would be good for going up/downhill but of course your breakover angle suffers. Arctic Cat's seem to be real workhorses as well compared to some other brands so it's something I keep an eye on. Got a motorcycle that just sits around collecting dust, would be wise of me to sell or trade in on something like this. My decision making skills are rather poor though, so maybe that's why I have yet to act on one.


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## kodiak (Feb 14, 2017)

panolo said:


> Polaris made one as well. The ATP.


They still make them except now it's called the X2. I believe that will be my next ATV, pricey though. They come with "Turf Mode" which is a rear differential that can be locked or left open, that's what attracts me to them the most.


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## benp (Feb 14, 2017)

NSMaple1 said:


> Any pics of this trail?
> 
> I am thinking that any trail you couldn't pull some kind of trailer through, and your ATV will barely make it through, won't be very safe to try with wood piled up on the racks.
> 
> A walking beam trailer is the answer for rough ground - but all trailer/tow vehicle combos do have their limits when it comes to hills & loss of traction. I have spun out a time or two with mine, with not much load on it - I have also been up on two wheels unexpectedly a time or two with not much weight on the racks. (I keep 2 saws, gas & oil on the front, and have a box/passenger seat on the back with all kinds of other stuff in it). If I was going to try wood on the racks, I would just solidly bolt a plastic tote on each rack, and start with small loads - at least the weight will gain you traction, and help keep the wheels on the ground going up & down hills, but the side to side pitches could bite you badly.



I agree. There is no way I would run with racks loaded that high. 

Walking axle trailers are the answer.



svk said:


> Appreciate the thoughts.
> 
> A few of you kind of mentioned the same thing so I'll answer without quoting everyone.
> 
> ...



You would be surprised the relatively mild terrain I have flopped the trailer over on while loaded down. In rough terrain I only load as high as the sides.

I would look into a side by side.


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## kodiak (Feb 14, 2017)

benp said:


> You would be surprised the relatively mild terrain I have flopped the trailer over on while loaded down. In rough terrain I only load as high as the sides.


I have a basic TSC 15 cu ft yard trailer that I use for scrounging in our marshy area as well as the creek behind us. I ended up putting a longer axle and wider tires on it. Much much more stable now going through those areas.


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## kodiak (Feb 14, 2017)

Getting back to hauling rounds on the ATV, which is what @svk is asking for, you could attach a large plastic tote to the rear rack. Not the most robust solution but it sounds like this is a once-and-done situation anyway. 

In the picture, I took a 50 gal tote, screwed it down to a piece of plywood then attached a couple of 1/2" NPT black pipe flanges and short pipe pieces to the bottom of the plywood. The pipes align with preexisting holes in the rear rack. The pipes keep it from sliding and the 4 bungee cords just help hold it down. I suppose you could put a ratchet strap across the top once it's loaded for extra security. 

I normally use the tote for carrying tools and gear but it does get used occasionally for hauling small to mid size rounds. 

BTW - That's the yard trailer I mentioned earlier but this was before the addition of the longer axle and wider tires. 

The picture is from the creek bed in the back of our property. It's a fairly steep climb to get out of there and so far I have not had the tote (or the wheeler) tip over.


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## Erik B (Feb 14, 2017)

@kodiak Do you have any pics of your trailer after you put wider tires on it? Love to see it. Thanks


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## svk (Feb 14, 2017)

I like the bin, that's a great idea. 

I have that same trailer although mine has seen a few more miles.


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## kodiak (Feb 14, 2017)

Erik B said:


> @kodiak Do you have any pics of your trailer after you put wider tires on it? Love to see it. Thanks


Not with me. I'll try to remember to get one tonight.


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## Ted Jenkins (Feb 14, 2017)

My opinion is to get the welder out. The store bought trailer are not designed for what you are doing. Wider axle and larger tires are a requirement. Worst case scenario is to grab a axle off of something that has seen better days and bolt it to the axle with some U bolts. A set of 13'' or 14'' automotive tires will get you going. Your ATV was designed for off road use , but not your trailer. Thanks


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## benp (Feb 15, 2017)

Ted Jenkins said:


> My opinion is to get the welder out. The store bought trailer are not designed for what you are doing. Wider axle and larger tires are a requirement. Worst case scenario is to grab a axle off of something that has seen better days and bolt it to the axle with some U bolts. A set of 13'' or 14'' automotive tires will get you going. Your ATV was designed for off road use , but not your trailer. Thanks



Ted my trailer was built as an off-road trailer for an atv using axles from a snowmobile trailer 





Problem with it is that it's a touch too narrow due to it following in the atv's tracks. It's Center of gravity is a bit to high due to its high ground clearance. 

So when it's loaded high and a rear wheel drops into a hole it will flop if I'm not careful. 

It's a great wagon for the most part. It's when I go off trail after blow downs that I have to be really careful. 

Like you said a little wider and walking axles would be the ticket. 

I'm going to swing in and talk to the builder today to see if there's anything we could do to make those changes


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## sirbuildalot (Feb 15, 2017)

Here's what you need








Seriously, Here is the trailer I used to have. A Country Manufacturing walking axle tandem unit. Had a 2500 lb capacity. That thing could haul some wood. About 1/3 cord at a time (43 cu ft. if stacked) with the overside bed I made. I wish I still had it, but I sold it a couple years ago.


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## kodiak (Feb 15, 2017)

Erik B said:


> @kodiak Do you have any pics of your trailer after you put wider tires on it? Love to see it. Thanks


Not much to look at. The tires were on clearance at my local shop. They are not super wide but they are also taller than what I had. The replacement axle probably puts each tire 4"-5" out from where they started. 

What I really want to put on are ATV tires like @benp has on his above.


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## Wowzer (Feb 15, 2017)

this might help you out as well. i would almost like to have one of these in the bush, would make maneuvering easy, and would probably handle some good terrain
http://kooybros.com/products/kubota-kc120hc-4-rubber-track-carrier-13hp


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## NSMaple1 (Feb 15, 2017)

My walking beam trailer was put together - by someone who really liked to weld, it seems - using what I think are old K-Car wheels. (I got it used). It works great, same width as the ATV and it will pull over rough stuff without any tipping no problem. I just need to watch out for stumps in the high spots I didn't quite cut off low enough - those bring it to a halt pretty quick. Walking beam is the way to go in the rough stuff.


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 15, 2017)

I realize you said a trailer will not work because of the steep down grade and abrupt changes in grade.
Someone else mentioned a gooseneck hitch, which I also recall seeing posted several years ago. I think it was on a side-by-side, and a very clever set-up. It would change the center of gravity and in your case might be rather dangerous on a steep decent.

Another thought, if you have the width on the trail, would simply mount some 6' x 2" x 6" pieces flat and cross ways on the front and rear racks and carry out a couple 8' long poles at a time, one on each side. If that doesn't work because of width then cut poles and carry cross wise on the racks. I would think that it would be easier to secure than a bunch of shorter cut rounds.

At one point you mentioned dragging. Another option could be making a simplified type of mini skidding winch for the back of the quad. One where you could lift the ends of a log or two for skidding. In the more difficult parts, drop the load and cable out, drive through, and winch the log back in. It could also be an arch type set-up with a long cable/electric winch, separate from the quad. Log-Rite also makes a Fetching arch for raising the end of a log to cable up a slope. This is the one I have but have never used it in that way.

Just throwing darts at the board to see if anything sticks...


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 15, 2017)

Just saw Wozer's post. I think he is on to something...


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## Ted Jenkins (Feb 15, 2017)

A number of years ago I built a trailer just to lower or drive down hillsides with a winch. I went through some wheels that were laying around in one of my storage units. I discovered a couple of combinations of offsets. For severe rugged terrain I chose wide offset wheels with as large as tires that I could find then for mild terrain areas I chose less offset wheels with smaller tires. The available combinations made the trailer much more versatile. In about 15 minutes my trailer could be hooked up to my Bronco or be used to shuttle wood up from a very rugged timber site. Thanks


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## benp (Feb 15, 2017)

Sandhill Crane said:


> Just saw Wozer's post. I think he is on to something...



I agree. 

But the practicality of that is limited and if that is something you are considering there are better options....

Such as this. 

https://www.constructionequipment.com/asv-scout-sc-50-utility-vehicle





Which to me is way more useful. 

If I had to do it all over again I would go this route. 

http://woodlandmills.ca/us/product-category/atv-trailers/

I spoke with my trailer builders today. Well one of the brothers, everyone else was at lunch. 

He said my trailer is built to track directly behind an atv with similar ground clearance of most wheelers. That's what people have asked for. 

I asked about making it a walking beam. 

It would add an additional 2+ feet of width because wheels would now have to be on the outside. 

I told him to talk about it this afternoon with his brothers when everyone was back. 

Don't get me wrong. I really like my trailer. It just could be better for off trail


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## svk (Feb 15, 2017)

This would be useful. Especially with a lift kit.


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## Wowzer (Feb 15, 2017)

benp said:


> I agree.
> 
> But the practicality of that is limited and if that is something you are considering there are better options....
> 
> ...




That ASV is cool. Real cool i would really like it if it didn't have the cab and just a roll over bar. like a UTV or SXS a bit. but i don't like confined spaces much. 

SVK you could almost build something like that photo but to give a bit more ground clearance use a square spindle almost like a walking beam with only singles have a tube come straight down, and brace it back a bit
https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Spindles-sz-For_2000_lb_Axle.aspx

after all this talk about walking beam trailers i have been thinking about building a little one for the compact tractor, or something like this even. http://www.bigtoolrack.com/


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## Erik B (Feb 15, 2017)

kodiak said:


> Not much to look at. The tires were on clearance at my local shop. They are not super wide but they are also taller than what I had. The replacement axle probably puts each tire 4"-5" out from where they started.
> 
> What I really want to put on are ATV tires like @benp has on his above.
> 
> ...


@kodiak Going with the higher tires would put more weight on the tongue as well, wouldn't it?


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## benp (Feb 15, 2017)

Wowzer said:


> That ASV is cool. Real cool i would really like it if it didn't have the cab and just a roll over bar. like a UTV or SXS a bit. but i don't like confined spaces much.
> 
> SVK you could almost build something like that photo but to give a bit more ground clearance use a square spindle almost like a walking beam with only singles have a tube come straight down, and brace it back a bit
> https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Spindles-sz-For_2000_lb_Axle.aspx
> ...


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## kodiak (Feb 15, 2017)

Erik B said:


> @kodiak Going with the higher tires would put more weight on the tongue as well, wouldn't it?


Only if I didn't raise the tongue/hitch to keep the trailer level.

Every trailer I own has a 2" ball coupler including this one. To get the coupler to properly meet the ball on the ATV there is a 4" spacer block between the bottom of the coupler and the top of the tongue. If you zoom in on the earlier picture with the ATV you can just see the corner of the spacer/coupler.


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## Wowzer (Feb 15, 2017)

benp said:


>



that what i am talking about right there. just need this instead of a UTV with tracks, Wood scrounging in the Winter time around here wouldn't know what hit it.


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## NSMaple1 (Feb 15, 2017)

Here's mine:





I hook the splitter on the ball at the back.

Found it used, think I paid $200 for it. I swapped the 1-7/8 front hitch for a 2", and added the hitch at the back - only things I have done to it. Thing is built solid as heck, whoever built it. I would like to have more ground clearance at times - if I was building, I would work that into the equation. I might see if I can find some 15" wheels for it, has 14" on it. Box is 2' wide, 8' long, 2' high. It will go wherever I can get the wheeler to - but it is kinda heavy, so have to watch the steep hills for spin-out potential. Takes a bit of room to get turned around too - but I am way more than happy with it.


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## svk (Feb 15, 2017)

Off-road tandem, I like it! Another great AS member idea!


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## spowers (Feb 17, 2017)

Get a trailer with the wheels mounted outboard of the body. The axle determines the clearance, not the wheel size! Center of gravity is much lower. Look at Nichols Trailers in Maine. They aren't cheap but they are worth every penny!


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## NSMaple1 (Feb 17, 2017)

Mine above has an axle, and that is indeed the limiting thing for clearance. That & the cross members. 

If I had built it, it wouldn't have an axle. Each walking beam would have had its own pivot. So one each side. Like a wheel hub. And those would have been welded onto each side, but dropped down on a bracket. To get more clearance. It's a catch 22 though - higher = more ground clearance, but also makes it tippier in the rough stuff.

So given what I bought, swapping wheels out would get me another inch the easiest way. Plus they would roll over obstacles easier & trailer would pull a bit easier. Plus I have all kinds of used 15" tires to use on it, and for spares - but used 14" tires seem to be hard to come by around here.


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## svk (Feb 17, 2017)

Pending tax return results I may pick up that log arch. Just thinking I can use that more than an expensive trailer at this point (not including the project this spring to get wood out of the tough to reach areas).


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## fields_mj (Feb 17, 2017)

So how much wood are we talking on an annual basis? If you could stack it on racks and safely haul it over most average terrains, and get it out in 2 or 3 trips (in other words not a lot of wood), then I can see why you're going down this route. However, if you're talking about a cord per year, that's a noticeable portion of your winter heat and it really is worth putting some effort into. Instead of trying to find some really cool mod or toy that MIGHT help you get the wood out, how about you spend time and just fix the trail? Yeah, it might be a lot of work, but it will pay off in the first year. If you're trying to transport that much firewood over that kind of distance, do what you need to in order to make the trail safe. Otherwise you're going to be trying some rigged up solution and if it doesn't work quite the way you thought, you'll destroy your machine if you're lucky, end up in the hospital or morgue if your not. 

Forget the log arch. Great if you are wanting to make lumber, but trailers are a lot more useful for firewood (my opinion of course). Buy/build a single axle trailer. Walking trailers are nice for really rough terrain, but if you'll fix your trail, you shouldn't need to spend the extra money. My terrain in southern Indiana isn't that bad because the trails have been fixed  When the ground is soft, I use the same 4x8 trailer to bring the firewood out that I use to haul the ATV down the highway. 4 to 5 trips = 1 cord. That may not work for you, but the point is that a trailer will bring out just as much firewood as an arch, and I use it for lots of other things too. 

Adding a hitch isn't difficult but can take some time. I've got a 2003 Yamaha Big Bear, and the chincy sheet metal plate on it is pathetic. I built a full blow clevis hitch for it (think garden tractor implements) that also locked the rear suspension. It provided a nice solid location for a 2" receiver.


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## svk (Feb 18, 2017)

I'm still going to get a log arch at some point as most of my scrounging is less than 1/4 mile from my woodpile. The ability to drop a log right in the splitting area saves a lot of time and touches. 

Of course there's a 60 acre cut happening on the land adjacent to my cabin so after this year those tops piles should hold me over for at least three years.


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 18, 2017)




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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 18, 2017)

A number of years ago it was a very dry summer, and several large double trunk oaks uprooted during a late Summer wind storm. The rest of the photos are over a period of years, all dead and down. 
A quarter to maybe a half of a tree can be limb wood, depending on species, and a trailer is much better suited for that. The arch is great, but truthfully, sits unused most of the time. It would be great if your harvesting the standing dead Elms.


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## Ted Jenkins (Feb 18, 2017)

I have 12 miles of very rugged road to navigate with every load. Grading the road is not an option at this moment. Two weeks ago there was a landslide that involved at least a 100 yards of dirt and rock on the road way. It seemed that the USDA would likely send some personnel up to the site to clear it because near the top of the hill is a transmitter. The part that I use probably will not be graded or fixed for some time so rugged it is for me. Once in awhile I use a softly sprung leaf axled trailer, but for most part it is not worth the extra effort. My 1200 lb splitter is another matter so installed a walking beam type suspension on it. It took a very long week to do it, but it glides over rough terrain better than my truck. To make a smoother ride I lower the air pressure considerably going up then pump the tires to about 60 going down. 

Sandhill I used an straight axle to use in similar fashion. It did help a lot. I would raise one end up with my crawler then chain the axle in place. For the other end I clamped my 4 n 1 bucket on to the log and back down the hill. My neck got sore until I made the seat turn. One problem turned up when I had about 15,000 lbs of wood going down a steep rock hillside with the crawler. Since using the wheels eliminates much of the friction it can be exciting going down a hill with a load sliding backwards at 20 MPH. Thanks


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 18, 2017)

Pretty flat here. Sometimes I would run the shoulder of the road for a short ways. Easy to go to fast and not realize it until you feel the load pushing when slowing down.


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## Car Knocker (Feb 19, 2017)

This is the way to haul this big rounds. The bigger ones are 20"


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## unclemoustache (Feb 19, 2017)




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## unclemoustache (Feb 19, 2017)

I had to cut a tree in a neighbor's back yard, and haul it out by hand - about 200 yards uphill. I hired a bunch of kids to roll the rounds up. I should have taken some pics of that!


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## Cody (Mar 2, 2017)

I don't know if you ever came up with anything but paging through the latest sportsmans guide I noticed these.

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/prod...MTIjwgBfX0RmaEG3PrRuw6IgrS7G4qEDCIaAluD8P8HAQ

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/prod...-front-rear-cargo-basket-set-2-piece?a=580319


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## svk (Mar 2, 2017)

Cody said:


> I don't know if you ever came up with anything but paging through the latest sportsmans guide I noticed these.
> 
> http://www.sportsmansguide.com/prod...MTIjwgBfX0RmaEG3PrRuw6IgrS7G4qEDCIaAluD8P8HAQ
> 
> http://www.sportsmansguide.com/prod...-front-rear-cargo-basket-set-2-piece?a=580319


That first one looks great.

I have somewhat planned out a high sided front rack in my head. That back rack with the drop box would be nice with the extra capacity.


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## Cody (Mar 2, 2017)

svk said:


> That first one looks great.
> 
> I have somewhat planned out a high sided front rack in my head. That back rack with the drop box would be nice with the extra capacity.



Would be real slick if it was extended enough to hold the splits length wise, but I suppose that would through off balance and take away rear departure too much.


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## sledge&wedge (Mar 3, 2017)

Cody said:


> I don't know if you ever came up with anything but paging through the latest sportsmans guide I noticed these.
> 
> http://www.sportsmansguide.com/prod...MTIjwgBfX0RmaEG3PrRuw6IgrS7G4qEDCIaAluD8P8HAQ
> 
> http://www.sportsmansguide.com/prod...-front-rear-cargo-basket-set-2-piece?a=580319



I had the racks from the second link you posted on my old fourwheeler. They were nice for hauling fairly light stuff around; treestands, tools, etc. but they wouldn't handle anything with much weight to them. They attach to the racks with U-bolts (used to, anyway) and no matter how tight you crank them down, adding anything heavy would cause them to twist around and get loose after a short ride. Not only that, but they would scratch the hell out of your existing rack. Not trying to bash your idea, just don't want someone else to end up like I did.


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## svk (Mar 3, 2017)

I've seen those on a friend's wheeler and agree they are pretty light but for a couple years of use should hold up. My wheeler is a 2000 model so not too worried about damaging the existing racks.


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 3, 2017)

I too bought a used quad for $2,300. Its a 2005 Polaris 330 Magnum 4 x 4, and easily the most used, most useful piece of equipment I've owned for the money.


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## Jere39 (Mar 4, 2017)

Popular price point, my 2002 Bombardier XT 650 Quest was a used find at about $2400 and has turned in to a go to workhorse for pulling, arching, hauling in the woods. Oh, yea, and just every once in a while, just a blast around the property throwing rooster tails of snow.


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 4, 2017)

Yeah, the quad rarely moves without something hitched to it. The only time it sees high gear is when the boys come home. Each Spring I go through it for maintenance and completely strip the body panels from it, and pull the wheels. Change fluids in all three cases, plus the engine oil/filter, and check it end to end. Have replaced torn U-joint boots, cracked breather hoses on front and rear dif., and such. YouTube was great for learning how to pull front axles... Clean, check for loose bolts, etc., grease, wax, use...


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 4, 2017)

I would think you could take the existing racks off, and fab something wood specific to bolt back on the front and back that would accommodate rounds, half rounds, or large quarter rounds. A small rack with uprights and a mesh headache racks to keep it from shifting forward and back. Or something to haul 4' lengths cross-ways would probably be more productive. 

The caution would be that something tall behind you could more likely trap you from a quick exit, and possibly break your back if you flipped it, much like sissy bars on the back of a motorcycle.


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## svk (May 10, 2017)

Finally will be getting around to revisiting this next weekend once the wheeler is back together. Big plans to get all that oak hauled out this spring which isn't happening any time soon.


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## 101mph (May 15, 2017)

I just got me a "new to me" 2006 Yamaha Grizzly 660. My first ATV and very excited about being able to use it for hauling stuff around the property and of course hitting the trails with.

So far the thing is a beast!


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## ramrat (May 21, 2017)

If you are still trying to haul these rounds this fall. I would take a long weekend this fall and help my Polaris 850 sportsman would love to help. I have a big John Deere cart with atv tires on it.


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## svk (May 21, 2017)

I moved a bunch of big birch rounds this weekend. Two at a time bungeed to the rack. Worked pretty well.


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## ramrat (May 21, 2017)

How far are you hauling them?


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## svk (May 21, 2017)

Anywhere from 100 feet to a quarter mile.


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## Logger nate (May 27, 2017)

Actually works pretty well, have hauled quite a bit this way.


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## svk (May 28, 2017)

Nate, looks good. That is basically what I'm thinking but I was just going to fashion "sideboards" so the first row or two could be stacked in there without straps.


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## Logger nate (May 28, 2017)

Thanks, I would think that would work great. A lot of times it's hard to keep the bottom outside blocks from rolling off while stacking second row on so having small side boards should work better.


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