# Making an axe handle. help please



## dpgoalie (Mar 18, 2011)

Hi all,

I broke the original ash handle on my grand pa's broad head axe. I laid it on a piece of rectangular ash and traced it. I then used a jig saw to cut out the shape leaving a 1/4" more than the line.

My question is: since I have no experience, what is the best way to get the handle to the original shape and size that I want. Someone told me to use a Japanese Shinto Sander Rasp, but I want to make sure that is the best, easiest way to go. I wonder if it will dull quickly on the really hard ash?

Any help will be appreciated.


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## cowboyvet (Mar 19, 2011)

Nobody else is jumping in so I'll throw a few ideas for you. A draw knife would be the easiest way to go with hand tools followed by sanding to get final rounding and finish. A rasp would work but could take a while. A good sharp plane would also do the job. Depends on what you have available.


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## justme23005 (Mar 19, 2011)

A belt sander with rough sandpaper might also save you some work..


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## discounthunter (Mar 23, 2011)

a router with a straight bit to get it to shape,then a half curve to round the edges,then hand sand to your liking.BLO then a coat of urethane if you want.


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## swift4me (Mar 24, 2011)

I've made alot of handles for axes, hammers and sledges.... many unsuccessfully because of not having good wood, so I've had my share of practice.

I agree that the draw knife is a great way to remove alot of material quickly. The Japanese rasp you speak of is also great. It would take longer, but I am still using the first one a friend gave me years ago. (If I'm thinking of the right rasp.) The one I'm talking about is not like a cheese grater, but a bunch of re-shaped coarse hacksaw blades with a red handle, coarse on one side, less on the other. A plane would go a long way too, if you understand grain and planing.

After that, sanding, etc. Of course the fitting to the axe head is really important and remember that as the axe head settles onto the handle it needs to be able to move toward your hands AGAINST a taper. Do not make a hard angle to stop the head. That will give you a loose fit over time. 

Then make a good centered cut for your wedge, (not too deep, depending on the inside contour of the axe head) and cut a good wedge with the grain running lengthwise, and after setting the wedge, don't glue it or cut it, but let the head settle fully, (let the axe fall on the floor from a foot or so landing on the tip of the handle), and then split some kindling and re-set the wedge etc.

Good luck.

Pete


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