# MS 362 vs. MS 391



## AustinPSD (Apr 18, 2010)

With the MS 362, Stihl offers a 59cc saw, rated at 4.6bhp, with the power-head weighing in at 13 lbs.

The mid-range MS 391 comes in at 64.1cc, 4.4bhp, and weighs in at 14.1 lbs., without the power-head.

I'm going in to the dealer tomorrow to talk about both saws - the price difference is approximately $125 (20" 3/8 bar/chain combo).

Most of the time, I need to run a 20" bar. There are a few trees (probably less than 10% of what I cut) that need a 24" or larger bar.

I'm interested in a saw that can be maintained, rebuilt relatively easily, and can pull a 24" bar (even though it might be a little slower) on occasion.

On the face of things, I'm a little surprised that the extra 5cc of displacement on the MS 391 doesn't translate into a bit more horsepower, but I realize there is a difference between the "pro" and "mid range" saw line.

Based on evaluating the Stihl web site/literature, there doesn't appear to be a lot of difference between these saws other than the black handle on the MS 362 and the better spec. 

Before I talk to the dealer, a couple of questions:

- does the MS 391 have a vertically split case like a "pro" saw?

- has anyone used a 24" bar on the MS 391, and if so was the performance satisfactory?

I'm OK with the price differential on the MS 362 if it translates into better long term performance and cost of ownership. I cut mostly cedar elm, poplar, a variety of oak, an bald cypress. Most of what I cut are diseased or damaged trees in clearing and reclamation projects, averaging two to three trees, including felling, limbing and bucking on a daily basis. The trees range in diameter from twelve inches to thirty inches or slightly larger in a few cases, particularly cypress and some of the older live oak.

My employer provides a Stihl MS 230, running an 18" bar. It is underpowered, and under-length for most of the work I do. I have to re-hab saws of my own, a Stihl 011AVT, and a Husqvarna 142e that I use for limbing and trimming, as well as bucking some smaller wood. I'm ready to step up to a pro, or at least more appropriate saw as the current stable is inefficient, and in some cases inappropriate/dangerous for the work I have to do.

This has increased in priority, as I'm now going to be cleaning up after significant flooding in the upper Guadalupe River basin after this week's flooding event. I decided to go bite the bullet tomorrow, and am leaning toward the MS 362, even with the higher cost....

I'd appreciate any guidance or wisdom from those who've used either saw.

Stihl is better supported in my locale than Husqvarna, and Dolmar/Makita, Jonsred, and others are next to non-existent, so Stihl is probably the best choice relative to local parts/support.


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## BloodOnTheIce (Apr 18, 2010)

I've run both, not much on the 391, and a decent amount on the 362, and power and weight wise they are virtually identical. If you're going to run it several days a week and make you living with it, get the 362, if your an occasional user using it to cut some firewood, you'll be happy with the 391.


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## Jtheo (Apr 18, 2010)

Check with the dealer, but I am reasonably sure that the 391 does not have a vertically split magnesium crankcase. If so that saw will more difficult to re build.

The 362 has received some very good reports here on AS, and would be my choice if I were buying a Stihl.


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## kodiakyardboy (Apr 18, 2010)

I had a 390 and I just bought a 362. The 390 was a really great saw but a pain in the butt to work on. The 390 made some great power after a muffler mod. Granted, it is not the 391 so it is a different saw. The 362 is a very well built saw, easy to access the air filter, spark plug, and cylinder. It isn't even broken in yet and the power is great. For $125 difference, step up to the 362. Pro vs. homeowner models are worth the extra coin. This of course is my opinion, so do what makes sense to you.


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## rattler362 (Apr 19, 2010)

I have run about 3 gallon of gas through mine and i am pleased with it i like the air filter on it better then i did the 290 i had i have never run a 391 so i cant help you their but i am happy with the choice i made.

Mike


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## billmartin (Apr 19, 2010)

I havn't run either one. That being said, it sounds like you will be working the saw hard enough to justify the expense of the pro. As a plus if it ever crapps out on you the extra coin spent will translate into easier repairs

Have fun:chainsawguy:

Bill


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## AustinPSD (Apr 19, 2010)

Thanks for the feedback - I'm going the 362 route, now i need to find a reasonable dealer... the local "Elite" dealer is asking an elite price - $20 over MSRP, with no room to deal, no extras...

They don't stock the 362, too new, and still have an inventory of 361's at $10 over the old MSRP...


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## AustinPSD (Apr 19, 2010)

yakntx said:


> Go to the Deere dealer in Marble Falls. They have a 362 in stock and prices are good.



Thanks for the heads-up - I'll give 'em a visit tomorrow.


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## Andyshine77 (Apr 19, 2010)

If you can get one for $640.00 you're doing good, that's what I paid before tax.


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## indiansprings (Apr 19, 2010)

I'm interested in a saw that can be maintained, rebuilt relatively easily, 


With that said it's a no brainer, buy the 362. Although I have not run a 362 I have run a 390, decent saw espcially for the guy who cuts his own wood.
A real pita to work on, the 290,310,390 are all the same chassis, with just a bigger jug and slug attached as they step up in displacement. Clamshells, you can do a search, Thall just did a fantastic thread on how to rebuild one.
The 361 rips a 390 imho, I would imagine a 362 is an improment over the 361 in all aspects but weight. Most on here say it is offers more torque and an improved power band. The way we use saws we don't even hesistate to pay the extra for the "pro" saws, if you divide it out by the lenght of time the saw will last and perform its pennies a day.


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## Trigger Man (Apr 19, 2010)

You might want to check out Thall's thread on rebuilding a ms290, dosen't look that hard to rebuild at all, time consuming maybe but looks simple, much easier than splitting cases apart in my opinion.


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## caotropheus (Apr 19, 2010)

Take a look at this THALL's thread. He rebuilt a 310 as a 390 and it seems to be more simple than an ordinary pro saw.


http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=133453

Anyhow, I would go with the 362.


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## Trigger Man (Apr 19, 2010)

caotropheus said:


> Take a look at this THALL's thread. He rebuilt a 310 as a 390 and it seems to be more simple than an ordinary pro saw.
> 
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=133453
> ...



Did'nt I just post the samething prior to your post?


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## dingeryote (Apr 19, 2010)

I talked with a gent this afternoon who is of the same mind as you on the comparison between the two, but as he runs a Landscape and tree service outfit with 30 some saws in the inventory, he buys the 390's and runs the crap outta them, then dumps 'em on flea bay every other year.

I was kinda shocked untill he explained that when a saw is down and bieng serviced, it costs him money either way, and the 390 has been as solid as the the 361s for the ground guys. He even went on to lament the demise of the 390 and crossed his fingers in hope that the 391's he's got on order hold up.

It sorta sucks cuz I was hoping to Vulture any dead saws he had, but there aren't any.LOL!!

There's no flys on that 390.
The 391 is a different critter, and only time will tell.

If you think you can wear out a 362 with Honest use, it might be worth the price difference and slight bit of power.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## happy camper (Apr 20, 2010)

*362 vs. 391*

Wow was I happy to find this thread. I have also been trying to decide between the two. I also think I am going to go with the 362. I like reliable, easy to work on, time tested gear. I am used to the 441 from work (FS fire) and am a big fan of Stihl. After reading this thread I think I am going out to buy as soon as Ace opens in the morning. Thanks for all the info gents!


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## LHJim (Apr 20, 2010)

*buy at Ace?*

I doubt Ace has any Stihl but I coulda be wrong. I see you are in Montana so maybe Ace carrys everything? Welcome to forum!


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## chevyman (Apr 20, 2010)

There is an MS440 in the trading post for $350. That is what i would do.


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## SawTroll (Apr 20, 2010)

kodiakyardboy said:


> I had a 390 and I just bought a 362. The 390 was a really great saw but a pain in the butt to work on. The 390 made some great power after a muffler mod. Granted, it is not the 391 so it is a different saw. The 362 is a very well built saw, easy to access the air filter, spark plug, and cylinder. It isn't even broken in yet and the power is great. For $125 difference, step up to the 362. *Pro vs. homeowner models are worth the extra coin.* This of course is my opinion, so do what makes sense to you.



Sure they are - the 391 makes no sence at all to me, with a price difference that small!  

To the OP; If you can find a 361, consider going with that one!

Some members seem to believe it is "manly" to not care about weight and bulk differences - but most of us will notice the differences between those models after some hours of cutting, they are not small, even if the 362 and 391 weight specs are true......:censored:

Also, the 361 is a proven design, while the others are totally new designs.


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## 7sleeper (Apr 20, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> Sure they are - the 391 makes no sence at all to me, with a price difference that small!
> 
> To the OP; If you can find a 361, consider going with that one!
> 
> ...



It is always a good idea to listen to what Sawtroll has to say! 

I would also strongly consider a pro saw for your use as far as I have understood you will be using it daily. As Sawtroll mentioned I would also stay away from a brand new introduced product for at least a year and strongly consider the 361. The story of the the Dolmar 5100 is in the memory of many here. UUPPSSS maybe I shouldn't have mentioned that. 

Well I usually try to stay away from new products for at least a year because I hate the idea of being the tryout troup.

If you have problems getting one give Thall(THALL10326) a call. Don't visit, I repeat DON'T, visit his shop(If you do NEVER complain about Elvis!). You might go home with more than you wanted , but his prices are supposed to make you smile!

Good luck, 

7


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## AustinPSD (Apr 22, 2010)

Again, thanks to all for the solid advice and counsel...

I ended up with the MS 361 - a banner day today on many fronts, not the least of which was my employer purchasing the saw for me as a reward, and gift for working hard around here.

Yesterday I was able to strike a cash deal with a dealer, on an MS 361 (one of a couple they had in stock). The MS 362 is still a new saw to them, and would've been a ten day wait for it after ordering, with not much of a price break.

The MS 361 came with a 20" bar, 2 loops of 20" chain, and a 25" bar and two loops of chain, a couple of bar scabbards (too short, but they'll do for now). All in, right at $600 including the saw, the bars and chain, and sales tax...

My employer came in late today and surprised me with a brand new saw, before I had a chance to go finalize the deal tomorrow...

I'll try to get a couple of pictures posted tomorrow before the saw sees first wood... It is one beautiful saw!


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## porsche965 (Apr 22, 2010)

Congratulations! Great saw that gets better tank after tank...


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## procarbine2k1 (Apr 23, 2010)

I think that you will be happy with your new saw. I haven't used a 391, but wasn't impressed with the 039 that I ran. It ran well, but I didn't notice much difference (if any) over my 029 Super.
If that 361 is any comparison to my 360 in the power department, they are hot rods. I really like that size of a Pro series Stihl... If taken care of, that saw should last you the rest of your life.
Also sounds like you have one heck of an employer!


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## SawTroll (Apr 23, 2010)

procarbine2k1 said:


> I think that you will be happy with your new saw. I haven't used a 391, but wasn't impressed with the 039 that I ran. It ran well, but I didn't notice much difference (if any) over my 029 Super.
> If that 361 is any comparison to my 360 in the power department, they are hot rods. I really like that size of a Pro series Stihl... If taken care of, that saw should last you the rest of your life.
> Also sounds like you have one heck of an employer!



The 361 actually should be "hotter" than the 360 - maybe not for max power, but it sure has a better top end!


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## mirkaba (Apr 23, 2010)

Our local Ace has a Stihl Dealership and there is still a 361 on the shelf as well as a 390. I have been considering selling a couple saws and buying the 361 but can't quite bring myself to do it......


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## AustinPSD (Apr 23, 2010)

Here (hopefully) are a couple of glamour shots of my new MS 361 before I started work this morning:


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## AustinPSD (May 12, 2010)

A three-week report on the MS 361...

I love this saw.

For the day-to-day, I've been running a 20" Stihl bar and chain, with work running from light felling, limbing and bucking to much more demanding snag clearing and large tree felling. For that, I've been running a Bailey's 28" Carlton bar and full-skip Oregon chain. 

I work by myself 99% of the time, so I'm shy of pictures. I'll shoot some of the aftermath woodpile, but I am compelled to say, I love this saw. It seems to perform better every time I use it. I'm alternating chain loops between each bar, flipping bars, and running Stihl Ultra and bar oil exclusively, and maintaining absolute control over the pre-mix that's going into the saw, along with strict attention to maintaining the chains, tension, and other aspects.

It is a joy to cut with. I've been able to cut out and clear huge snags, fell any tree on the property that I need to, and this saw along with my vintage 011AVT are a perfect pair. I can use the small saw for limbing, and the MS 361 to do the rest of the work.

Thanks again to all for the help and positive advice.


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## TreePointer (May 12, 2010)

Congrats on the fantastic deal on your 361. I've never tried a 28" bar on a stock 361. I wonder if the oiler can put out enough for a 28-incher. Have you noticed any blueing/heat marks?


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## AustinPSD (May 12, 2010)

TreePointer said:


> Congrats on the fantastic deal on your 361. I've never tried a 28" bar on a stock 361. I wonder if the oiler can put out enough for a 28-incher. Have you noticed any blueing/heat marks?



So far, I've let the oiler set to the "E" (E-matic?) position, with the 28" bar/full skip chain in place. No bluing, or heat problems, and the saw is still throwing chips, not dust. That particular bar/chain combo is good for cutting through snags, which are dirty, and even without maxing the oiler up, shows no signs of too little oil.


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## t3t4 (Jul 25, 2012)

AustinPSD said:


> So far, I've let the oiler set to the "E" (E-matic?) position, with the 28" bar/full skip chain in place. No bluing, or heat problems, and the saw is still throwing chips, not dust. That particular bar/chain combo is good for cutting through snags, which are dirty, and even without maxing the oiler up, shows no signs of too little oil.



Hey guy's, first post here but I had the same dilemma between the MS-362 vs the MS-391 and I made my choice for the 362. I bought it yesterday from a Pennsylvania dealer @ 10% off (after haggling) and tax exemption which equaled $629.00 but if I purchased the HP STIHL oil I could double the manufacturers warranty (STIHL gimmick, dealer participation only). Ehhh, it was $11.00 So that's what I did for a 6 pack and double the warranty. The wife wanted a new pair of safety glasses so it was $652.00 out the door said and done!

I fired it up today and ripped some "red oak" vertically (with the grain), about 16" across. It did OK but I was not impressed overall. Glad I didn't go with anything smaller to say the least! Personally I can't imagine the 391 having less power by feel, however, in terms of reliability/weight/width there is a significant difference! I can confirm the weight difference as well as the width. I held both in my hands and felt the weight of the 391 and 362. The 391 is definitely heavier and fatter (width), the 362 is lighter by feel and more slim by the eyeball (width), either-way it's noticeable at first glance and/or first contact! I wish dealers would let you try a saw like they let you drive a car....... Then we all would know from at least some experience what we need for our cutting style as well as our requirements!

Much like taking a pi$$, I don't let gravity do the job, I push a bit..... 

When I stall the chain in anything, I get a little irritated. However, I've gone into "read oak" round about half throttle with my 362 and stalled the action, then pressed that play button a bit harder and she picked up instantly! Ya have to give credit to that! Nice saw all-in-all with it's bells and whistles, but I still want more power in the same weight range. The MAGNUM series is the next step up, but I'm really not that die hard, if ya know what I mean..... This is a very nice saw and I have no right to complain about it, however, for the money I could have gone lesser 391 with mods (free) and equaled the power with the same disappointment!

My 362 is running a 3/8 20" chain, and it does OK/well. For me personally, I want this weight and bar/chain but in a 7 -8 HP configuration. Double what I have should be about what I expect. So, am I just smokin crack or do you guys feel my pain?

Thank you,
t3t4


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## tommyus4 (Jul 25, 2012)

I wasn't impressed with mine the first day either. In fact, I lost some sleep.

Then, a funny thing happened about 10 or so tanks later: It kicked into another gear. It will happen to you too.

ps

Not sure of that half throttle thing. Either go all out or don't go out at all...


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## t3t4 (Jul 25, 2012)

tommyus4 said:


> I wasn't impressed with mine the first day either. In fact, I lost some sleep.
> 
> Then, a funny thing happened about 10 or so tanks later: It kicked into another gear. It will happen to you too.
> 
> ...



Well, I hope that mine picks up a bit, even though I probably have no right to complain. Just first impressions here, I was far from impressed! Maybe if I had never ran a saw before this thing it might seem like a monster such as an 025 compared to an 044 for example.

This 362 should be on the bleeding edge of that high side comparison without stepping into that weight/power range. Come this September I'll know better, I have a log length stack of wood (give or take) 14' tall to cut up/down for heat the next few years. Should be round about 7 - 9 cords. Maybe within this pile I can experience what you are talking about. And between you and I, I dang sure hope so! 

If I had one major [email protected] point to make at this point, it would be the air filter and all of it's plastic (I'm too cheap for good) methodology. At list price for this saw, I have a hard time swallowing the cheap air filter design! And too the air filter is set in quench tabs/spring tabs coupled to the filter basket. They fall off easily and the filter itself is difficult to remove! This SOB had better wake up for me, otherwise, you guys can snag a deal while I'm forced into the magnum range.....


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## SawTroll (Jul 25, 2012)

Try the 562xp....


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## nmurph (Jul 25, 2012)

Well, if you want 362 weight with 660 power, I would sell the saw and get a 562. Then get it ported and you will be getting there...(8hp ain't gonna happen from the 60cc range without a lot of work at the expense of durability)...I would guess a ported 562 is pushing 6hp...and don't run a 2 stroke at part-throttle for extended periods. Run it wide open or let it idle...


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## SawTroll (Jul 25, 2012)

nmurph said:


> Well, if you want 362 weight with 660 power, I would sell the saw and get a 562. Then get it ported and you will be getting there...(8hp ain't gonna happen from the 60cc range without a lot of work at the expense of durability)...I would guess a ported 562 is pushing 6hp*...and don't run a 2 stroke at part-throttle for extended periods. Run it wide open or let it idle..*.



:agree2:


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## justtools (Jul 25, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> Try the 562xp....



He does not have a lot of saws to use. He needs to buy something reliable for daily use. Otherwise a very good suggestion.


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## Anthony_Va. (Jul 25, 2012)

A ported 362 wouldnt make a bad saw either. I know that a well broken in 362 witha muffler mod will flat out run. Still havent seen any vids of a 562 smoking a 362 and the 562 I've ran, though it was pretty much new and not broken in, would'nt run off and leave a broken in 362 by any means. It may be a few seconds faster in a cookie but I still like the 362. 

Give it 25 tanks to really feel a difference in the power. Open up the muffler and you'll really enjoy it. Send it off to have it ported and it'll be all you need in a 60cc saw. JMO


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## saxman (Jul 25, 2012)

I agree with Anthony, the 362 takes several tanks to break in and then a muffler mod will really wake it up. You guys with brand new saws just need to be patient, let them break in before you throw in the towel and do something stupid!

Steve


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## t3t4 (Jul 25, 2012)

saxman said:


> I agree with Anthony, the 362 takes several tanks to break in and then a muffler mod will really wake it up. You guys with brand new saws just need to be patient, let them break in before you throw in the towel and do something stupid!
> 
> Steve



Thanx for all the suggestion.

I did strongly consider the 562XP, but I'm just not much of a husky fan. They seem to flex and carry on a bit while the STIHL's just feels more rigid to me. Maybe the XP's are better, I couldn't say either way since I've never held one let alone run one. But anyway, I do cut wide open. It's just in this case I had very little to cut and a brand new saw sitting there staring at me saying come use me dangit. You know how it is..... I had nothing truly worthy of this saw to cut, so I used what little I did have somewhat inventively for the sake of testing out my new saw. I maybe ran 1/4 of a tank full with it and was out of things to cut.

What I'd like to experience and the reason I purchased this saw, is some of the big ole ugly trees/stumps that I keep getting every year it seems. The stuff that just laughs at a 16-18" saw. The kind of 50" trunks that swallow up an entire saw! I can't imagine going with less then what I have for spinning a 20" B&C. And I can see the need at least in my case to run a 25" B&C at times.

I'm not a logger or even a die hard woods man, but I do seem to get the kind of wood that makes me work just as hard at times. All in the name of heat, and cooking too. I'll have more to say once I have more trigger time on the 362 and more break in, but I was just surprised and disappointed the first time I stalled the chain while testing. I really wasn't pushing hard! However, it was a healthy chunk of read oak that I was ripping and you guys know how rock hard that stuff can be. On a side note however, do any of you guys know if performance aftermarket parts are available for the 362? I would entertain the idea of intake and exhaust mods but not so much on the internals. If I have to go that far it would make more sense to me to simply buy a bigger saw. I would think that putting this 362 in the 5HP range should be fairly easy. But then again, maybe not.

Thanks,
t3t4


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## laportian (Aug 2, 2012)

*Just bought the 362 last night*

This is my first post here. I had seen this site a few years back and didn't pay much attention to it as I stopped working in the woods fulltime in 2004. I logged, did forest developement work, sold firewood, and spent a couple years as a forestry tech up to 04. I took a job as a counselor in 04 and really haven't dabbled too much in trees. I did a few logging jobs in 07-08 and still dink around with a little firewood from time to time. I also do the occasional tree removal job still too. 
Well any ways we had a major wind storm here in northern Minnesota on July 3rd and suddenly found myself busy knockin trees again. So I put two and two together and bought a new splitter and saw. I have a free souce of wood in the Chippewa National Forest. I am Native and because most of my reservation lies within the Chippewa I am able to harvest any damaged timber that I want. 
I am a Stihl guy. I still have an 044 and an 036. Both saws are at least fifteen years old. Nothing is wrong with either I just thought an upgrade would be nice. I have run all of the bigs at one time or another. Husky's, Jonseruds, Dolmars, and finally on to Stihls from about 1997 on. I chewed through at least 30 big saws from 1987 to 1997 when we started adding Stihls to our saw line up. Bigs saws to me were the 60 to 80 cc saws, pro saws. Stihls flat out handled the abuse we dished out. Hands down were just more durable than the other brands. Nothing wrong with the others. Heck I loved the 372 xp's, they were awesome saws. Infact some of my cutters were still having us buy them for them into the 2000's. We were probably averaging 40-50 thousands cords of mostly aspen from the mid ninties until I quit. The bulk of our wood was felled, limbed, and bucked with chainsaws. We added a feller buncher starting in 2000 and a loader with a slasher in 02.
Last week I was saw shopping and came across a the 391 for under $550 and nearly bought it. I decided to go home and do some checking on the internet to find out any reviews. Well I ran across quite a few threads on here that kept saying that the 362 was a better saw. I pulled the trigger and bought a 362 with an 18inch bar last night for $679. I decided to go with this saw as it is a pro model and it has a metal case vs. the plastic of the farm&ranch and home owner saws. I wouldn't have known this info if I hadnt seen this site. The price differance is piece of mind for me. I had a new 044 that was less than a week old that I ran over with a 648 John Deere. I only had to replace the bar, handle, and gas tank. The metal case saved the motor.


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## moody (Aug 2, 2012)

AustinPSD said:


> With the MS 362, Stihl offers a 59cc saw, rated at 4.6bhp, with the power-head weighing in at 13 lbs.
> 
> The mid-range MS 391 comes in at 64.1cc, 4.4bhp, and weighs in at 14.1 lbs., without the power-head.
> 
> ...





Just a couple questions. How does a saw make 4.4 bph without the powerhead? Have you looked at a Husqvarna 365 or even a Jonsred 2156? My stock 346 xp cuts as fast and dependent on the chain will outcut a Stihl 362. Overlook names find what fits your needs and pay what you're comfortable with.


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## SawTroll (Aug 2, 2012)

t3t4 said:


> Thanx for all the suggestion.
> 
> I did strongly consider the 562XP, but I'm just not much of a husky fan. They seem to flex and carry on a bit while the STIHL's just feels more rigid to me.



Well, you got that part of your consideration totally wrong, but do as you like....:msp_wink:


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## hangfirew8 (Aug 2, 2012)

laportian said:


> This is my first post here.



Welcome to the forum. Read a lot and learn a lot, but be aware that if you post an opinion you'll get several back in return!

HF


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## t3t4 (Aug 15, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> Well, you got that part of your consideration totally wrong, but do as you like....:msp_wink:



Like I said, I have never held an XP let alone run one. Have you run the 362? Held it , felt it, etc?

I don't claim to know anything aside from what I like and what I have experience with but I do wish I had a dealer local to me with an XP on shelf. The traditional choke lever being dual as it is on the Husky's,,,, well, it feels like something I could snap off if heaven for bid I farted hard enough, let alone sneezed! The irony to me at least, both are German design (562XP and Stihl 362) but the overall difference is what? Perhaps quality and chain speed? I see that most Husky's cut a bit quicker due to higher chain speeds, so re-sprocket a Stihl to see apples to apples, but nobody seems to do that while recording their Youtube videos.

It all comes down to choice and as you said, "do as you like". 

Nothing more to say about that....

t3t4


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## Locust Cutter (Sep 3, 2012)

I miss my old 039. It was heavy, solid and DEAD reliable (until it got roasted when my pickup burned to the ground). It was a good solid saw but a tad slow. I did a M.M. and re-tune on it and it would keep up with my Step-FIL's stock 362. The filtration wasn't the greatest (especially compared to my old 346xp) but it wasn't hard or all that more time-consuming to periodically pop the cover to clean the filter. If it hadn't burned, I am sure I would still be using it. I do like the 362 as it is well balanced, pulls a 24" bar in Burr and Blackjack Oak well and is a terror in Hedge with a 16"-20" bar. 

My 039 cut a lot of the wood that I burned/sold over the last 17 years working between 6-20 cords/year and still had great compression. My B.I.L has a 391 that I've only used once but liked it overall. The handling is similar to the 362, but where the 391 signs off in the upper power band, the 362 keeps pulling. I believe a M.M. would help it as much as it did my 039. For a lot of firewood hacks (like myself), the 391 is all the saw they're ever likely to need. That said, my Father taught me to buy the best tools I could afford as they tended to last longer and give better service all-else being equal...


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## rms61moparman (Sep 3, 2012)

t3t4 said:


> Like I said, I have never held an XP let alone run one. Have you run the 362? Held it , felt it, etc?
> 
> I don't claim to know anything aside from what I like and what I have experience with but I do wish I had a dealer local to me with an XP on shelf. The traditional choke lever being dual as it is on the Husky's,,,, well, it feels like something I could snap off if heaven for bid I farted hard enough, let alone sneezed! *The irony to me at least, both are German design (562XP and Stihl 362) but the overall difference is what*? Perhaps quality and chain speed? I see that most Husky's cut a bit quicker due to higher chain speeds, so re-sprocket a Stihl to see apples to apples, but nobody seems to do that while recording their Youtube videos.
> 
> ...






I didn't know the Germans had started designing Swedish saws!!!
When did that happen???:msp_scared:


Mike


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## CATDIESEL (Sep 3, 2012)

the stock filters on the 562 and the 550 are nothing to write home about either. there is a reason stihls' are a little heavier/bulkier, they are simply built better. they always have been, and always will be. sure the 562/550 are a little quicker, but it does come with a price, always has, always will as well. i do run both brands in my operation, and prefer the stihls. all we do is service and run the stihls, and the same cannot be said for husky. again, both good saws, and this is just my opinion.


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## nmurph (Sep 3, 2012)

...and thanks for that opinion, it was so well thought and fact-filled.


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## SawTroll (Sep 3, 2012)

t3t4 said:


> Like I said, I have never held an XP let alone run one. Have you run the 362? Held it , felt it, etc?
> 
> I don't claim to know anything aside from what I like and what I have experience with but I do wish I had a dealer local to me with an XP on shelf. The traditional choke lever being dual as it is on the Husky's,,,, well, it feels like something I could snap off if heaven for bid I farted hard enough, let alone sneezed! The irony to me at least, both are German design (562XP and Stihl 362) but the overall difference is what? Perhaps quality and chain speed? I see that most Husky's cut a bit quicker due to higher chain speeds, so re-sprocket a Stihl to see apples to apples, but nobody seems to do that while recording their Youtube videos.
> 
> ...



No, nothing - as your statement is too far removed from reality!


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## SawTroll (Sep 3, 2012)

nmurph said:


> ...and thanks for that opinion, it was so well thought and fact-filled.


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## t3t4 (Sep 17, 2012)

rms61moparman said:


> I didn't know the Germans had started designing Swedish saws!!!
> When did that happen???:msp_scared:
> 
> 
> Mike



Yeah, well it was just a matter of time I suppose till someone busted my nuts over the EU. Over seas is over seas and I call it the EU unless we're talking about Japan/china. That would equal a different over seas location....... So yeah, Swedish, German, Italian or French, then what? It's all the same basic location in my book, otherwise known as the EU. But then again, I almost failed geography, so take it for what it is my friend!


What I can and will gladly tell you all from experience about my MS-362 is this:


I just went through 7 cords of you name it, but mostly seasoned red oak and white oak. I went through it like butter! However, there was a pine or two in the mix, one of which was a telephone pole with climbers embedded. One of them killed my chain! Otherwise, I did 4 cords easy until I even thought about swapping chains or sharpening.... Point is, 7 cords and two chains where no problem! But I did have a helper that seems afraid of the saw, so take it for what it's worth. My helper used mine and seemed afraid of it then, but he still went out the following day to buy the same exact make and model, so go figure.... Coming from a Poulan wild thing and growing up to a Stihl 362, it's understandable to say the least. This Sthil MS-362,,,,rips!

You guys telling me about break-in, yeah, I feel ya, now finally! You'd have to be die hard woodsman to need more then this 362, and that's about all I can say in this regard. Either way, cut safe and have fun, but if you aint got the power then it aint no fun!

Oh, and just food for thought here, I weighed in at 18 lbs with a 20" B&C almost fully wet (meaning gas and oil). So 13 lbs my butt! This gets heavy when you run it 2+hours straight! 

t3t4


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## Sabertooth (Sep 17, 2012)

CATDIESEL said:


> the stock filters on the 562 and the 550 are nothing to write home about either. there is a reason stihls' are a little heavier/bulkier, they are simply built better. they always have been, and always will be. sure the 562/550 are a little quicker, but it does come with a price, always has, always will as well. i do run both brands in my operation, and prefer the stihls. all we do is service and run the stihls, and the same cannot be said for husky. again, both good saws, and this is just my opinion.



I *probably* see more old ass Huskies running than Stihls. Saying that Stihls are heavier because they last longer is a bit of a joke TBH. They're both built strong and therefore cannot be judged on longevity.


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## t3t4 (Sep 17, 2012)

Sabertooth said:


> I *probably* see more old ass Huskies running than Stihls. Saying that Stihls are heavier because they last longer is a bit of a joke TBH. They're both built strong and therefore cannot be judged on longevity.



I'm a Stihl fan true and true again, but, my only issue from feel in terms of the husky is this: You still cannot sneeze too hard or you'll snap off the goofy weak and pathetic choke lever as the dual stage waste of time garbage that it is. Stihl got this basic thing right form day one, but the world keeps waiting for Husky to catchup....... I've run both and I like both in various packages or models. But I will say from my personal experience, I'll take an underpowered Stihl over a high revving faster chain speed Husky any day of the week! 

No news here, but slow and steady wins the race.....

t3t4


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## Sabertooth (Sep 17, 2012)

t3t4 said:


> I'm a Stihl fan true and true again, but, my only issue from feel in terms of the husky is this: You still cannot sneeze too hard or you'll snap off the goofy weak and pathetic choke lever as the dual stage waste of time garbage that it is. Stihl got this basic thing right form day one, but the world keeps waiting for Husky to catchup....... I've run both and I like both in various packages or models. But I will say from my personal experience, I'll take an underpowered Stihl over a high revving faster chain speed Husky any day of the week!
> 
> No news here, but slow and steady wins the race.....
> 
> t3t4



Slow and steady wastes more time :msp_wink: Opinion is the biggest factor in machines, so it doesn't really matter. The two Sthils I had their dumb switch system broke, so I had to flood em out to shut off ( Off switch was broke) 

Here where I live Sthil is actually cheaper, because most people like the husky. Even Dolmar are more here, but I see why


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## Adelia473 (Sep 17, 2012)

Take a look at this THALL's thread. He rebuilt a 310 as a 390 and it seems to be more simple than an ordinary pro saw.


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## t3t4 (Sep 21, 2012)

Sabertooth said:


> Slow and steady wastes more time :msp_wink: Opinion is the biggest factor in machines, so it doesn't really matter. The two Sthils I had their dumb switch system broke, so I had to flood em out to shut off ( Off switch was broke)
> 
> Here where I live Sthil is actually cheaper, because most people like the husky. Even Dolmar are more here, but I see why



Just curious here: When you broke the simple but clever STHIL one lever does it all, where you awhere that the throttle lock out must be depressed "prior" to opening the throttle to the wide open position? I assume you know now that you must be WOT before you can go to full choke, but likely not then if Husky is your breed in Canada. Even the way older STIHL's functioned, very similar, minus the lockout.... Yep, it's plastic, but heavy duty plastic and very likely not broken but rather dislodged from it's socket. If you force it that is!

You Canadians and your brute force, ya just break stuff. How did the Husky ever survive as the breed of choice?

Just being sarcastic, please take no offense.

t3t4


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## Naked Arborist (Sep 21, 2012)

I'll take my 361's every time if I had only one saw to chose from. The time is drawing near to get one of the parts beasts 361's and do some serious mods to see what is really hiding in there. I want to know how Randy MM's like new ported 361 runs when somebody gets there hands on it. It's still up for sale here. I don't think anybody's getting hurt on the price either. Just my 2cents. I in no way endorse anything that ugly (ape like avatar) with a gun.:msp_tongue:


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## dwraisor (Sep 21, 2012)

opcorn:

dw


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## Brushwacker (Oct 15, 2012)

I think rather then pour more $ in the new saw I'd find a good used that pulls 24" and bigger bars for $300 give or take. You might be surprised how well a Makita 6401 does that or many other used older saws generally in the 70 cc range and up. My self, I find cutting in adverse conditions that put the saw at risk of getting smashed etc. now and then. I hate using a high dollar saw at those times. Lost 1 already at a time that I couldn't afford a replacement and didn't have a spare.


t3t4 said:


> Thanx for all the suggestion.
> 
> I did strongly consider the 562XP, but I'm just not much of a husky fan. They seem to flex and carry on a bit while the STIHL's just feels more rigid to me. Maybe the XP's are better, I couldn't say either way since I've never held one let alone run one. But anyway, I do cut wide open. It's just in this case I had very little to cut and a brand new saw sitting there staring at me saying come use me dangit. You know how it is..... I had nothing truly worthy of this saw to cut, so I used what little I did have somewhat inventively for the sake of testing out my new saw. I maybe ran 1/4 of a tank full with it and was out of things to cut.
> 
> ...


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## Termite (Oct 15, 2012)

I have worked on a stihl 390. Although the plastic crankcase is strong enough, durability of all the screws that go into that plastic is not very good. Also, the chain adjuster breaks real easily. Also, the muffler has no support except for the two screws at the jug, it likes to come loose and fall off.
I would look for something better.


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## t3t4 (Oct 16, 2012)

Brushwacker said:


> I think rather then pour more $ in the new saw I'd find a good used that pulls 24" and bigger bars for $300 give or take. You might be surprised how well a Makita 6401 does that or many other used older saws generally in the 70 cc range and up. My self, I find cutting in adverse conditions that put the saw at risk of getting smashed etc. now and then. I hate using a high dollar saw at those times. Lost 1 already at a time that I couldn't afford a replacement and didn't have a spare.



Thanks Brushwacker,

After some break-in time (8) tanks of gas or so, this saw runs more like I expected from day one. It rips now and I can't complain much at all. It was hellishly expensive in my opinion, but so far has done everything I asked without a gripe or complaint. And too it's rated to run a 25" B&C and I do believe that it would with minimal issues. 

I've been there having a saw stuck, cutting dangerous scenarios. In fact, I just went through that a few weeks ago with my ms-362. A bad cutting decision equals a stuck saw, but I still had the power to spin the chain even though I couldn't pull back or push threw. It took another saw to cut me out a couple times. Even though I built a log lifter with the power of god, it's still limited to the stability of the ground. This saw has balls, no doubt, but it still takes two if one gets stuck!

I don't regret my purchase after some break-in time, but I'm a guy that always wants power. This thing will make your ears ring in stock form, so I can just imagine what a muff mod would do in terms of decibels..... I feel the erg to coax more power from the "engine" but I'm not a die hard woodsman and I don't typically need anything like that. So I rest at odds, fighting myself over a very capable saw if ya know what I mean.... I dropped a couple live ones and both of them just barely swallowed the bar. I had enough with a 20" B&C to drop them both single pass, but I also had power in excess. No nasty monster logs this year, at least not yet!

This saw is not a monster in weight or power, but VERY respectable in either case. I'm 177lbs @ 5' 8" and holding 18 lbs of saw while hunched over gets a bit tiresome very quickly! Yeah, 13 lbs of power head by spec maybe. Real world weight ready to cut is 18, tested and proven! However, this saw will fit where needed and has the power to drop what is needed. I ain't stopped it yet in a real world live tree, but I did get it stuck while cutting up said live tree. Anyway, it gets heavy, quickly, but still worth the money in my opinion. Maybe a muffler mod is in my future, but I'd rather deal with the outrageously expensive air filter first!


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## spindrift7mm (Oct 16, 2012)

*Nice Saw*

t3t4 do yourself a favor and try it west coast style. Put a 28" lightweight w/square ground chisel skip on and stand up straight an relax,cut all day and smile. Hell I run a 28 lw on my 026,ms390,ms440 and a 34 on the 064 for stumpin the butt swells and cluster stumps. This is mostly live oak and black oak works well for my fat azz. I dump'em with the 440 then grab the 026 limb'em and buck back the lighter wood, up to about 16-18" then take a long break(fat azz) finish w/440. I don't really need the 390 but always take it out as it was my first Stihl and is still a good back up but will retire it when I find a good 036/360 deal.All my saws are muff modded and 026/064 are ported. Have fun and blow BIG chips Ken


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## Locust Cutter (Oct 16, 2012)

spindrift7mm said:


> t3t4 do yourself a favor and try it west coast style. Put a 28" lightweight w/square ground chisel skip on and stand up straight an relax,cut all day and smile. Hell I run a 28 lw on my 026,ms390,ms440 and a 34 on the 064 for stumpin the butt swells and cluster stumps. This is mostly live oak and black oak works well for my fat azz. I dump'em with the 440 then grab the 026 limb'em and buck back the lighter wood, up to about 16-18" then take a long break(fat azz) finish w/440. I don't really need the 390 but always take it out as it was my first Stihl and is still a good back up but will retire it when I find a good 036/360 deal.All my saws are muff modded and 026/064 are ported. Have fun and blow BIG chips Ken



:agree2:
I bought a Stumpbroke 372xp to partially replace the MS660 I burned up recently... Being that I needed to do bigger wood, I had Stump spec it out with a 28" B&C combo... Wow! The saw would balance much better with a 20" bar and would probably be perfect with a 24"/25" bar, BUT, running the 28", I can limb on the ground while holding the saw about waist high (I'm 6'2"). I don't mind bending down, but having slipped some discs in my lower back some time ago, they occasionally remind me that I'm not 16 anymore... Those days, the 28" is PERFECT! It's a bit nose heavy, but with a sharp chain, just give her hell and let the forward CG/sharp chain due the cutting. Muscling it is not necessary.


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## t3t4 (Oct 26, 2012)

spindrift7mm said:


> t3t4 do yourself a favor and try it west coast style. Put a 28" lightweight w/square ground chisel skip on and stand up straight an relax,cut all day and smile. Hell I run a 28 lw on my 026,ms390,ms440 and a 34 on the 064 for stumpin the butt swells and cluster stumps. This is mostly live oak and black oak works well for my fat azz. I dump'em with the 440 then grab the 026 limb'em and buck back the lighter wood, up to about 16-18" then take a long break(fat azz) finish w/440. I don't really need the 390 but always take it out as it was my first Stihl and is still a good back up but will retire it when I find a good 036/360 deal.All my saws are muff modded and 026/064 are ported. Have fun and blow BIG chips Ken



Thanks Ken,

I miss the 044/440, I miss that power but I do not miss it's weight! I'm quite happy with my 362 after some trigger time. It will do what I need without question, but my fat azz also knows where you're coming from in break time. I can hang for about 2 hrs straight but no more then that! I'd like to have a 260 for limbing, my neighbor has an 025 that he just won't sell to me, but he let's me use it when needed. 

I will likely perform a muff mod on my 362, but it's already loud enough and powerful enough (after trigger time) to do what I need. When I get some big and nasty ugly stuff, I'll put a 25" B&C on it and go from there. But in the mean time, how do I drop a tree to the ground and cut it west coast style while standing up? Hell, I built a log jack with the power of god but it still only goes 6" high depending upon the ground. A backhoe with a thumb attachment would do the deed for waist height cutting, but otherwise I just can't picture it.

Thanks again Ken,
t3t4


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