# Chain stops cutting when top of bar enters wood



## Motodeficient (Jul 20, 2010)

Went out this weekend to cut some wood, sharpened my chain and filed the rakers down like normal. The saw cuts great until the top of the bar gets down into the cut, then it stops cutting any further, just spins in place. I have never had this happen before and can't seem to figure out whats causing it. What would make this happen?


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## wigglesworth (Jul 20, 2010)

Motodeficient said:


> Went out this weekend to cut some wood, sharpened my chain and filed the rakers down like normal. The saw cuts great until the top of the bar gets down into the cut, then it stops cutting any further, just spins in place. I have never had this happen before and can't seem to figure out whats causing it. What would make this happen?



It could be two things. 
1- Chain is cutting more on one side than the other
2- The bar groove is worn bad enough that the chain is rocking over and essentially jamming.


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## Saw Bones (Jul 20, 2010)

Motodeficient said:


> Went out this weekend to cut some wood, sharpened my chain and filed the rakers down like normal. The saw cuts great until the top of the bar gets down into the cut, then it stops cutting any further, just spins in place. I have never had this happen before and can't seem to figure out whats causing it. What would make this happen?



Rakers too low, and or Bad Clutch? my thoughts.


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## landyboy (Jul 20, 2010)

Saws cutting one side better than the other. Result is a curved cut. When it reaches a certain point the bar jams in the cut, leaving the chain to run freely.


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## Motodeficient (Jul 20, 2010)

I am not the best at sharpening chains, I probably have the rakers lower on one side than the other. THanks guys.


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## blsnelling (Jul 20, 2010)

It would seem unusual to me for the cut to get curved enough to be a problem in only the height of the bar. Is the engine revving away when this happens, or is it like a stuck chain? I'm trying to figure out if the clutch is slipping or not.


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## BobL (Jul 20, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> It would seem unusual to me for the cut to get curved enough to be a problem in only the height of the bar. Is the engine revving away when this happens, or is it like a stuck chain? I'm trying to figure out if the clutch is slipping or not.



It is unusual but I have seen it several times. Once was the saw owner used a new 050 chain on an 063 bar. The bar rails were also slightly uneven and the bar only got half way in before it jammed. The other time was when the owner ground all of his cutters the same way! Wish I had taken a photo of the chain - I must ask him if he still has it.

Anyway motodeficient, read this thread and is should give you some ideas.


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## Motodeficient (Jul 20, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> It would seem unusual to me for the cut to get curved enough to be a problem in only the height of the bar. Is the engine revving away when this happens, or is it like a stuck chain? I'm trying to figure out if the clutch is slipping or not.



The engine is still revving and chain is spinning as it should, it just stops cutting into the wood


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## andrethegiant70 (Jul 20, 2010)

We need a better description here... "spinning in place" doesn't make sense to me.


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## SkippyKtm (Jul 20, 2010)

BobL said:


> It is unusual but I have seen it several times. Once was the saw owner used a new 050 chain on an 063 bar. The bar rails were also slightly uneven and the bar only got half way in before it jammed. The other time was when the owner ground all of his cutters the same way! Wish I had taken a photo of the chain - I must ask him if he still has it.
> 
> Anyway motodeficient, read this thread and is should give you some ideas.



:agree2: I've seen that very thing myself. Wrong size chain flopping over in the bar, but I doubt Moto would do that (you wouldn't do that would you? lol). 
I bet if Moto puts a new chain on and makes sure the bar rails aren't too sloppy it'll cut fine.


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## Motodeficient (Jul 20, 2010)

Its the right chain. Everything worked normally until the last sharpening. Must be that I filed the rakers unevenly. Do you guys file all of the rakers on one side, then turn the saw around to do the rakers on the other side? I filed them all without turning the saw around. Chain sharpening is a weakness for me. The bar is almost brand new, maybe 4 cord cut with it.


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## rupedoggy (Jul 20, 2010)

Turn the bar over (upside down) and try it. If it cuts you will soon need a new bar. If it does the same you need a new bar and chain.


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## alderman (Jul 20, 2010)

I generally file the rakers from one side with no problem. I don't know of any reason to turn it around.


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## Bermie (Jul 20, 2010)

The rakers (depth gauges) are the bumps sticking up in front of the cutter...they are the things that regulate how deep the cutters will cut. You file them down gradually with a flat file, keeping them low enough for the cutter to cut but not too low so that the cutter will grab too much wood and jam, stall, bounce, grab or kickback.

The CUTTERS or teeth are the bits you sharpen with your round file...

Look at your cutters, make sure they are:
- the correct angle for the brand and model of chain 
- all the SAME length


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## webie (Jul 20, 2010)

You said it stops cutting once you get the full bar width in , Does it cut straight or do you have to force it to cut straight . Try starting up the saw and just let the saw cut on its own with no help and see if it wants to cut straight threw the log or turn in the cut , I will bet it wants to turn . 
Set all your rakers the same height even if they are to low get them the same height . And make sure your cutters are all close to the same length after sharpening . Flip the bar and try it again . Check your bar to make sure it doesnt have a ridge or burr on one side that is causeing it to hang up . check your bar groove it should be worn evenly not worn to one side .
If its worn to one side thats a good deal of your problem . If you dont have a bar dressing tool get one they are cheap . 

Now question of the day , How much paint is left on your saw bar ? 
If most of your paint is gone off a bar that has only cut 4 cords of wood , you have not been maintaining your saw chain properly and have been forceing your saw to cut no matter how sharp you think your saw chain was .
The best sharpening is balance keep it all the same cutter angle cutter length and raker height .


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## Motodeficient (Jul 20, 2010)

I have a raker gauge and use that to file the rakers. The bar still has all its paint on it, none is worn off at all. I will try to refile everything tonight and inspect the groove in the bar.


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## adam32 (Jul 20, 2010)

I have the same problem with an 012av. Get the bar into the wood and the chain keeps turning but doesn't cut any deeper. Put a brand new bar and chain on it and it still does it...


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## webie (Jul 20, 2010)

I would take a real serious look at that block of wood .


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## adam32 (Jul 20, 2010)

webie said:


> I would take a real serious look at that block of wood .



Different pieces of wood and it still does it...got the saw used so I'm thinking it may have had the wrong bar/chain on it from the start. But I brought it to a Stihl shop to put the new b/c on so they should know the correct one...


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## jus2fat (Jul 20, 2010)

Have you checked your sprocket for excessive wear? 
Maybe as you start your cut (less wood) and move down
(more wood) your sprocket is not grabbing the links correctly.
Like..not every tooth on the sprocket is grabbing every link...
but enough teeth are grabbing enough links to keep it kinda spinning.

J2F


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## SkippyKtm (Jul 20, 2010)

I guess the only thing to do is take some nice, clear macro photos of your saw chain, Then I'll bet someone can help you.


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## turnkey4099 (Jul 20, 2010)

BobL said:


> It is unusual but I have seen it several times. Once was the saw owner used a new 050 chain on an 063 bar. The bar rails were also slightly uneven and the bar only got half way in before it jammed. The other time was when the owner ground all of his cutters the same way! Wish I had taken a photo of the chain - I must ask him if he still has it.
> 
> Anyway motodeficient, read this thread and is should give you some ideas.



Not unusual at all. Cut is curving enough that it jams. Cause is usually teeth sharper on one side than the other and/or rakers not even. His descripiption of a basicallyi new bar and a just filed chain says the cause is a poor filing job.

BTDT to often to even think about. Resharpening always cured it.

Harry K


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## J.W Younger (Jul 20, 2010)

turnkey4099 said:


> Not unusual at all. Cut is curving enough that it jams. Cause is usually teeth sharper on one side than the other and/or rakers not even. His descripiption of a basicallyi new bar and a just filed chain says the cause is a poor filing job.
> 
> BTDT to often to even think about.
> 
> ...


me too, harry
been a lot of years but I still remember.


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## Motodeficient (Jul 21, 2010)

Yes it was my poor filing job, need to keep practicing on that! I put an old chain on that my FIL had filed for me last year. Also filed down the edges of the bar, there was a lip forming. Saw cuts like a hot knife through butter now, sharp enough to actually let the saw's power shine.


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## REJ2 (Jul 21, 2010)

Sounds like you got it figured out. I was going to ask if NK chain on a standard bar would cause this? REJ2


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## jeff1 (Aug 9, 2017)

I have had this problem 2X where my stops goes into the wood about up to the top of the bar and stops.
Both times it was after I had cut a big stump low to the ground. I didn't do something right. First time I gave up on the chain and bought a new one. Same thing. I ground the bar down a little (where the chain rides on so it was very flat. Same issue. I replaced the bar. Problem solved. 
2x time (now) carefully sharpened the saw, cut the rakers down, same thing. I read someone comments about the groove being too wide. I think that's it. I noticed a lot of slack in the chain on the bar. That's tonight's project.


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## old guy (Aug 9, 2017)

I knew as soon as I read your post it was a burr on the edge of the bar. Been there done that.


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## HarleyT (Aug 9, 2017)

jeff1 said:


> I think that's it. I noticed a lot of slack in the chain on the bar. That's tonight's project.


Put up some pics. Of the bar, of the chain{cutters and drive links}, and also pics of your bad sprocket...


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## Westboastfaller (Aug 9, 2017)

jeff1 said:


> I have had this problem 2X where my stops goes into the wood about up to the top of the bar and stops.
> Both times it was after I had cut a big stump low to the ground. I didn't do something right. First time I gave up on the chain and bought a new one. Same thing. I ground the bar down a little (where the chain rides on so it was very flat. Same issue. I replaced the bar. Problem solved.
> 2x time (now) carefully sharpened the saw, cut the rakers down, same thing. I read someone comments about the groove being too wide. I think that's it. I noticed a lot of slack in the chain on the bar. That's tonight's project.


Just two. Twice is a bad day.
In my case it's usually from dusting one side of the chain. It will bind in the bigger cuts as it wants to turn to one side but the falling dogs prevent it. So I fix it with a quick touch up and finish the cut

Next question please?
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You probably spread a rail from 'heat' (bad practice's. )
The chain should have just a very slight side rock in the grove. There is a bar rail puller (closer) you can buy but that's not a ticket to mistreat the bar. You can close it but once it's heated it will work its way back in a week. How much time on the bar? You may be able to close the sections of the bar and slightly tap the rails. I've used my falling axe on a stump, concrete floor as well the railway tracks worked nice. Check it with a NEW short piece of SAME GAUGE chain as you go; would be best. You use your bar wrench with a slight tap if you get the odd tight spot.
You need surgeon's hands and eyes or money. 
Anyway you should be flipping your bar every full day.
Use a good Raker gauge *AS WELL try keep as many teeth as you can even in length. Keep sharp and make sure it's oiling. That will get ya. Stop to tighten up your chain and replace your sprocket after a few chains and keep you guide plates or nylon guides fresh.

And don't play with matches.

Welcome to the site


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## old guy (Aug 9, 2017)

He said he already cured the problem by taking the burr off the bar.


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## Westboastfaller (Aug 9, 2017)

old guy said:


> He said he already cured the problem by taking the burr off the bar.


 That's not true! Quit teasing


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## PDXchain (Aug 10, 2017)

I have seen this happen too. Are you running a narrow kerf chain, or is the chain ground back really far? Sometimes if the chain kerf is too narrow there won't be enough clearance between the chain and the bar surface. Try putting a piece of duct tape on the side of the bar and see if it gets worse.


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## milkman (Aug 10, 2017)

Motodeficient said:


> Yes it was my poor filing job, need to keep practicing on that! I put an old chain on that my FIL had filed for me last year. *Also filed down the edges of the bar, there was a lip forming*. Saw cuts like a hot knife through butter now, sharp enough to actually let the saw's power shine.



Well, you made two changes at once, so which one solved your problem? Put the original chain back on the dressed bar and you'll know which change solved your problem. I bet it was the lip that was catching the wood, that would mean that you're better at filing than you thought.


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## sundance (Aug 10, 2017)

rupedoggy said:


> Turn the bar over (upside down) and try it. If it cuts you will soon need a new bar. If it does the same you need a new bar and chain.



Why would you "soon need a new bar"? I flip mine regularly.


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## Roo (Aug 14, 2017)

For the record. I've had a similar problem before with a worn sprocket.


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