# Leveraxe



## ericjeeper

Today I recieved the "passaround axe" The inventor was kind enough to send us a demo leveraxe. The rules are. I got it first, I will use it and evaluate it. Then I will mail it to the next guy. Then he will use it, and also evaluate it. It will eventually be RETURNED to the Inventor. So if you do recieve the axe. Please use it, evaluate it and then send it on.. last guy with it.. sends it back to the inventor. 
I only had a few minutes this evening after work to use it.. It will take some learning.It busted some six inch cherry with little effort. Although the Hickory gave it a bit of a challenge. We all know Hickory will give hydraulics a challenge too..So it and Elm are both not candidates for hand splitting anyhow.here are some pics.
http://www.pbase.com/ericjeeper/image/76927459.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/ericjeeper/image/76927471.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/ericjeeper/image/76927482.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/ericjeeper/image/76927493.jpg


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## Adkpk

Looks nice and light.


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## EastwoodGang4

*demo*

I saw a demo video of that thing on the web. looked like it was effective. but also looked like it had it's place too. not for knocking the snot out of some big blocks but more for chipping the sides off. how does it feel on the wrists at the end of the day?? does it give them a good twisting?


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## Jimfound

EastwoodGang4 said:


> I saw a demo video of that thing on the web. looked like it was effective. but also looked like it had it's place too. not for knocking the snot out of some big blocks but more for chipping the sides off. how does it feel on the wrists at the end of the day?? does it give them a good twisting?



I too saw the video... :monkey: To me it seems if you want to split big rounds you need something heavy. Would be willing to give this one a shot, but I'm fairly certain I know what the result will be.


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## jerseydevil

*here I am, to state the obvious.*

As we all know, you gotta have the right tool for the job, and you gotta know what the right tool is, depending on the situation. I welcome pretty much any addition to my selection, and this thing would be a fine addition, too bad it is so costly right now. 
I read the makers statements and I hope it is all true, as I love advances in technology as much as the next guy. Thanks for the trial ax (to the creator, I hope he is following this thread), and thanks for starting the thread Eric.


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## Mr. Firewood

ericjeeper said:


> Today I recieved the "passaround axe" The inventor was kind enough to send us a demo leveraxe. The rules are. I got it first, I will use it and evaluate it. Then I will mail it to the next guy. Then he will use it, and also evaluate it. It will eventually be RETURNED to the Inventor. So if you do recieve the axe. Please use it, evaluate it and then send it on.. last guy with it.. sends it back to the inventor.
> I only had a few minutes this evening after work to use it.. It will take some learning.It busted some six inch cherry with little effort. Although the Hickory gave it a bit of a challenge. We all know Hickory will give hydraulics a challenge too..So it and Elm are both not candidates for hand splitting anyhow.here are some pics.
> http://www.pbase.com/ericjeeper/image/76927459.jpg
> http://www.pbase.com/ericjeeper/image/76927471.jpg
> http://www.pbase.com/ericjeeper/image/76927482.jpg
> http://www.pbase.com/ericjeeper/image/76927493.jpg



where is the pass it around list? I wouldnt mind giving it a few swings


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## BlueRidgeMark

I'll give it a go, if I may. I've got some good big oak rounds that should give it a workout. 20-30 inches, anyway.


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## ericjeeper

*Once I get finished over the weekend..*

Providing the rains stop. I will put it back into the original box with all the paperwork and send it North to Brandon in MI. He and Chris are going to try to wear the paint off of it.. Then it will be up to them to ship it to the next guy.


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## computeruser

I look forward to getting it. I will get some video of it being used on different species and sizes, and will post them up here.

I've got a half dozen or so people who want to try it out while I've got it, but we should be able to get it tested pretty quickly and sent on to the next person (who is Mr. Firewood, it would seem, since he's almost local). After that it looks like it'll be making the rounds in Virginia...


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## EastwoodGang4

*Ohio*

Will the Demo axe be passing around Ohio?? if so where's the sign up sheet?

By the way did the inventor from finland give a price for his piece if anyone would like to buy one??


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## BlueRidgeMark

I don't recall exactly, but it's something like the high side of 200 bucks. I'd get the price off their website, but I don't read Finish! 

http://www.vipukirves.fi/media/index.htm



It's going to have to be pretty impressive to justify that price!


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## JamesJems

*Where's the sign-up sheet.*

I looked this guy's site up on the internet. I too, don' t read Finnish, but would love to try this thing out here in the PNW, where we split mostly fir & alder.

How can I get on the list?

James


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## ericjeeper

*I just re boxed the axe.*

Going to get it in the mail tomorrow if I drive by a post office on my way to the job. 
The list is basically whoever gets it and chooses who he wants to ship it to next. 
It is going from me to Computeruser


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## ericjeeper

*Shipped it priority mail.*

I insured it for 272. us dollars. and the shipping combined was only 11.55. Not a bad deal. 
I think that any of us that ship it.. should also insure it.. I do not really wish to pay for som
something I do not get to keep.
Brandon Enjoy the axe..


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## blis

BlueRidgeMark said:


> I don't recall exactly, but it's something like the high side of 200 bucks. I'd get the price off their website, but I don't read Finish!
> 
> http://www.vipukirves.fi/media/index.htm
> 
> 
> 
> It's going to have to be pretty impressive to justify that price!



from the site, the price is 199e which is around 270dollars, pretty expensive...


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## BlueRidgeMark

ericjeeper said:


> I insured it for 272. us dollars. and the shipping combined was only 11.55. Not a bad deal.
> I think that any of us that ship it.. should also insure it.. I do not really wish to pay for som
> something I do not get to keep




Good advice.


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## computeruser

Good to know it's on its way! I've already got a taker in OH once the Mid-Michigan crowd is done with it.

I will post some video of it in hardwood and softwood, alongside more conventional splitting tools like the Iron&Oak maul, a Collins 8lb maul, Craftsman 5lb maul-axe thing, and a conventional single-bit axe.


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## computeruser

Update:

I received the ax a while back and finally had the chance to give a it a good testing this past weekend. I tested it myself, and it was also handled and tested by three other folks who are experienced in splitting wood by hand.

In short: though its build quality is superb, I was not impressed with its performance.

In fact, I was so unimpressed its performance that I didn't even bother making videos of it splitting stuff because we couldn't get it to split a damned thing except ailanthus, which splits all on its own when you fell it half the time anyway.

We tried it in green ailanthus and silver maple, as well as some pine, white oak, ash, and mulberry that was cut last fall or this past winter. Even when perfectly aimed to 1.5" from the edge of the round, the ax was more likely to stick than to penetrate and split off a plank of firewood. The performance of the leveraxe was about on a par with that of an old single bit ax that I use for limbing and tapping wedges. It was wholly incapable of cleaving off pieces from the hardwood species, and did a mediocre job in the pine unless it was absolutely clear and the round being split was less than 10" in length.

I offer this report not to disparage the design of the leveraxe or its abilities when used on the wood in the environment where it was designed. I've seen the videos on the website and it clearly works on the wood that is found over there. But it is not an appropriate tool for the stuff we burn here in the midwest. It might be able to perform better here if its head weighed eight or ten pounds, though.

I will be packing it up and sending it off to Ohio in the next day or so, and I know that there are a number of guys on the east coast who would like to have a go with it. What I would really like to see, though, is how it handles the northwest and alaskan softwoods - I think that these might be a better match for this tool's intent and design. All in all, I am very glad to have had the chance to try out the Leveraxe myself in the sort of wood that we deal with around here.



As an aside, this experiment also served as an opportunity to test out the other splitting tools I mentioned in the earlier post in a fairly scientific fashion. Interestingly, everybody's favorite splitting tool was the Iron & Oak wedge-on-a-stick 15lb maul. Even our 140lb friend preferred it over all the other tools we tested. We also had a chance to try a Fiskars hatchet and were all very impressed with that tool. Perhaps a hatchet comparison and review will be forthcoming...


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## Mr. Firewood

I have a pile of Red oak rounds to play with and some birch aswell as some ash just waiting for it


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## chainsawjunky

I got some 30 inch oak rounds and some 22 inch maple to test it on if it will be going through Illinois anytime. Evan


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## scalo

Sounds to me like I should stick with my Helko Vario 2000


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## computeruser

Mr. Firewood said:


> I have a pile of Red oak rounds to play with and some birch aswell as some ash just waiting for it



It'll be on its way as soon as I get it boxed back up and get over to the post office!

I'll be interested to see how it does with the birch. I have a feeling that it might like birch better than it liked the stuff I threw at it.


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## Finland

*Read The Instructions*

It looks that the LEVERAXE is not so simple as one could think.
When you start to split the wood with the LEVERAXE, you better forget totally the old way with the wedges, conventional axes. I have now followed the writings about the experiences with LEVERAXE and I have found out that most probably the users have forgotten to read the instructions .
For example on the first page there are some pictures, taken by -------.
There I can very easily see that not even one strike is made as instructed in the booklet. Maybe later the next tester have used the same method. The LEVERAXE does not work like that. There is a small thing that you must realize before you start to split otherwise the result is zero. It is like driving the car, if you cannot start the engine you will not get anywhere.
I will try to explain the way how to split with LEVERAXE. 
Initially, before you get more familiar with the technique strike to the LEFT side of the block. Imagine a line from the center of the block. Make your strike over the line on 90 degree angle(tangent) so that the blade hits the wood one or two inches from the edge of the wood. You must remember to LOOSEN your grip on the handle so that the blade can ROTATE, the handle MUST ROTATE in your hands, as well. If you hold the handle too tight and resist the blade from rotation, then the axe will not operate, because then it is like any other axe, wedge.
DO NOT STRIKE TO THE CENTER OF THE BLOCK. If you want to split a smaller block in two peaces, strike to the edge of the block, to the part where the bark is. 
Just to remind you, LEVERAXE is a special tool for splitting purposes for blocks which are 25 to 33 centimeters long. (10-13 inches)
So far there has not happened any accidences with LEVERAXE. You must be very careful, that there is not any breakable objects , pets or persons on the left side from the blade, because the split can fly on very high speed from the block. 
All what I am asking from you now. FORGET ALL THE PREVIOUS AXES. TRY TO REALIZE THE MECHANISM HOW THE LEVERAXE FUNCTIONS. If you do not realize that, then you will never get any result with it. 
I told you the example of driving the car. I think, it is not the car´s fault if YOU cannot start the engine.
I am very willing to answer to your questions conserning the splittings. If you have any problems, let me know.
It might be handy to visit to my homepages every now and then . Look at the videos, try to get in to the system. The istructions can be found from there , too.
Do not give up too easily. This invention took about fifteen years from me to be ready. I fully understand if you do not realize the system with one or two strikes. It only took about four million years for this invention to come to daylight. First the axe was made of stone, today it is made of iron. It is still the same wedge where the power vanishes to the friction. 
The friction is very minimun on LEVERAXE. On its best the friction is only the five millimeter part when the blade touches the wood. The next six to eight centimeters the blade gos in the air when it pushes the split away from the side of the block.(2-3 inches) All the power that was downwards a while a go is now to the left. All this happens fully automatically , you only must strike to the correct place and LOOSEN your grip on the handle. 
I wish you all interesting and safe splitting experiences.
Regards
Heikki from FINLAND 
www.vipukirves.fi
PS. Use soft gloves, leather or material.
DO NOT USE ANYTHING WITH RUBBER. This causes friction be-tween the handle and your hands.


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## Dr. Hackemoff

Finland said:


> It looks that the LEVERAXE is not so simple as one could think.
> When you start to split the wood with the LEVERAXE, you better forget totally the old way with the wedges, conventional axes. I have now followed the writings about the experiences with LEVERAXE and I have found out that most probably the users have forgotten to read the instructions .
> For example on the first page there are some pictures, taken by -------.
> There I can very easily see that not even one strike is made as instructed in the booklet. Maybe later the next tester have used the same method. The LEVERAXE does not work like that. There is a small thing that you must realize before you start to split otherwise the result is zero. It is like driving the car, if you cannot start the engine you will not get anywhere.
> I will try to explain the way how to split with LEVERAXE.
> Initially, before you get more familiar with the technique strike to the LEFT side of the block. Imagine a line from the center of the block. Make your strike over the line on 90 degree angle(tangent) so that the blade hits the wood one or two inches from the edge of the wood. You must remember to LOOSEN your grip on the handle so that the blade can ROTATE, the handle MUST ROTATE in your hands, as well. If you hold the handle too tight and resist the blade from rotation, then the axe will not operate, because then it is like any other axe, wedge.
> DO NOT STRIKE TO THE CENTER OF THE BLOCK. If you want to split a smaller block in two peaces, strike to the edge of the block, to the part where the bark is.
> Just to remind you, LEVERAXE is a special tool for splitting purposes for blocks which are 25 to 33 centimeters long. (10-13 inches)
> So far there has not happened any accidences with LEVERAXE. You must be very careful, that there is not any breakable objects , pets or persons on the left side from the blade, because the split can fly on very high speed from the block.
> All what I am asking from you now. FORGET ALL THE PREVIOUS AXES. TRY TO REALIZE THE MECHANISM HOW THE LEVERAXE FUNCTIONS. If you do not realize that, then you will never get any result with it.
> I told you the example of driving the car. I think, it is not the car´s fault if YOU cannot start the engine.
> I am very willing to answer to your questions conserning the splittings. If you have any problems, let me know.
> It might be handy to visit to my homepages every now and then . Look at the videos, try to get in to the system. The istructions can be found from there , too.
> Do not give up too easily. This invention took about fifteen years from me to be ready. I fully understand if you do not realize the system with one or two strikes. It only took about four million years for this invention to come to daylight. First the axe was made of stone, today it is made of iron. It is still the same wedge where the power vanishes to the friction.
> The friction is very minimun on LEVERAXE. On its best the friction is only the five millimeter part when the blade touches the wood. The next six to eight centimeters the blade gos in the air when it pushes the split away from the side of the block.(2-3 inches) All the power that was downwards a while a go is now to the left. All this happens fully automatically , you only must strike to the correct place and LOOSEN your grip on the handle.
> I wish you all interesting and safe splitting experiences.
> Regards
> Heikki from FINLAND
> www.vipukirves.fi
> PS. Use soft gloves, leather or material.
> DO NOT USE ANYTHING WITH RUBBER. This causes friction be-tween the handle and your hands.



Heikki,

Thanks again for the information. I think we get the jist. As for me, I own no power splitter but I split 8-10 cords per year (I length-wise rip the biggest rounds with my chainsaw). I've used most every axe, maul, and wedge (I've destroyed a half dozen of those gimmicky grenade wedges too). One exception - my Helko Vario hasn't seen a log yet and is resting on display on my fireplace mantle. I'm saving up for a fiberglass-handled model which should see a lot of service. Sorry to digress...

From birth I have utilized a death grip whenever I handle a power tool, and to date the only injury I've sustained is a self-induced broken big toe when I accidently pushed my 12 pounder off a stump (hello six advils with an equal number of beers). So I can relate to users of your product when they render less-than-desirable results with your product. I simply do not like the concept of wielding an axe with a loose grip.

Here's a suggestion (not to junior engineer your product): Can you design a spring loaded (break away) just before the head to allow the user to maintain their grip? Just wondering.

Regards,
Da Hack


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## Finland

Dr. Hackemoff said:


> Heikki,
> 
> Thanks again for the information. I think we get the jist. As for me, I own no power splitter but I split 8-10 cords per year (I length-wise rip the biggest rounds with my chainsaw). I've used most every axe, maul, and wedge (I've destroyed a half dozen of those gimmicky grenade wedges too). One exception - my Helko Vario hasn't seen a log yet and is resting on display on my fireplace mantle. I'm saving up for a fiberglass-handled model which should see a lot of service. Sorry to digress...
> 
> From birth I have utilized a death grip whenever I handle a power tool, and to date the only injury I've sustained is a self-induced broken big toe when I accidently pushed my 12 pounder off a stump (hello six advils with an equal number of beers). So I can relate to users of your product when they render less-than-desirable results with your product. I simply do not like the concept of wielding an axe with a loose grip.
> 
> Here's a suggestion (not to junior engineer your product): Can you design a spring loaded (break away) just before the head to allow the user to maintain their grip? Just wondering.
> 
> Regards,
> Da Hack



Hi!
Thank you for your reply to my writings. It will take some time for me to understand all, what you wrote, but I will return to those subjects later. 
Now I want to say something about the safety features of the LEVERAXE.
So far there has not happened any accidenses with the LEVERAXE. The reason for this is that the blade always remains on the block after the strike or anyway the speed of the blade is so low that you can easily control the axe.
I started to develop this LEVERAXE because I experienced the conventional axes very dangerous and hard to work with . When you use the normal axe you newer know how far the blade gos. Too often it will continue it´s way to the foot of the person who is splitting. There is so much kinetic energy that you cannot stop the blade after a bad strike. My opinion is that even one accident is too much. In Finland happens every year more than 4000 different kind of accidenses. Too many of them happens when a person splits the wood.
With the VIPUKIRVES you do not have these problems because the blade stops it´s move on the block and does not go anywhere after the strike.
It will take a while to get the trust to the function but after you find out that you do not have to worry about the blade the splitting is a lot more enjoyable than ever before. By method: "Strike and loosen" you will fully avoid the concussion to your hands. That is why I do not see any point in making any spring loaded systems because it is quite essential to avoid all kind of shocks to your hands. 
All the best
Heikki From FINLAND


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## Mr. Firewood

all I know is that I am excited to be able to test this axe out, it has intregued me for a while and as with most things on the internet you can not take them for a test drive before you purchase but if this axe does what I think it does then I will most likely buy one for at the house to go along with my Helco Vario

I like all that sacked firewood in the backround of the videos, do you have a suggestion for a source of the sacks?


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## ericjeeper

*where is the axe?*

Have not heard anything about it in a few weeks.. Anyone using it?


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## computeruser

ericjeeper said:


> Have not heard anything about it in a few weeks.. Anyone using it?



I screwed up and forgot to send it along. It'll be on its way shortly.


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## Mr. Firewood

wow, between the 6 of us we have wore the paint off of that axe, I like it. I have to figure out how to edit all this video so I can load it on you-tube, I figure I split about a cord and a half (5 ricks) with it, after the first rick I got the hang of it and could knock silver maple and red oak apart as fast as the helpers would bring it pm me if you would like the axe shipped to you and I will get it out within the next week or so


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## Adkpk

I give it a try. I pm'ed you.


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## ericjeeper

*Glad to hear someone finally figured out how to make it work..*

Keep it moving around . I will be interested in the video link as soon as you get it posted. Thanks


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## MS-310

I really think pure power and some time using an maul or axe is going to be the best way to split wood.....I do have a homemade spliter just for elm....But that cheap maul from ACE hardware has split alot, about 25 cords, 3 handles and some grinding it works great. 

But I would like to find some one close to me that has that helko axe so I could try it.

Now that 12lb wedge that thing is a brute, dam I dont care for them.


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## bob621

*leveraxe and alternatives*

I've used a maul, axes of various heritages and sizes (but not any of those nice Scandinavian models) and my Dad's monster maul. They all work, more or less, but I am interested in this idea from Finland of something different than weight driving a wedge.

I've been using a Chopper 1 (google chopperaxe) for almost 20 years. Last year did 5 cords with one of these. My only complaint would be that the current model had a wood rather than firglass handle. 

I think the principle of operation has some similarities to the leveraxe. Finland, what do you think?


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## Finland

*LEVERAXE/ chopperaxe*



bob621 said:


> I've used a maul, axes of various heritages and sizes (but not any of those nice Scandinavian models) and my Dad's monster maul. They all work, more or less, but I am interested in this idea from Finland of something different than weight driving a wedge.
> 
> I've been using a Chopper 1 (google chopperaxe) for almost 20 years. Last year did 5 cords with one of these. My only complaint would be that the current model had a wood rather than firglass handle.
> 
> I think the principle of operation has some similarities to the leveraxe. Finland, what do you think?



Hello Bob 621
The chopper 1 is still a wedge, though it has some extra parts on both sides. I have used and destroyed two of those Copper type of axes and I experienced them to be very hard to work because of heavy weight. The result did not satisfy me . The original one, I think, is called SUPERSPALTER from Canada. The copy was made in China. I have both of those, but they are without the extra parts, because the mechanism was not strong enough. I think I purchased the first one sometimes on 1980. 
The form of the LEVERAXE is onesided, all the weight is on the right side. When the blade hits the wood, it penetrates to the block only about 5 millimeters and bends to the right. This was the friction part. Then the blade puches the split away up to eight (8) centimeters (3+ inches) from the block, because of the kinetic energy. Then the blade stops on the block. All this happens very fast. 
My opinnion is that there are no similarities be-tween the wedge-type axes and the LEVERAXE. Maybe the wooden handle, but I think you did not mean that. Go to my homepages and see the wideos.( GOOGLE VIPUKIRVES)
Regards FINLAND


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## bob621

Finland said:


> Hello Bob 621
> The chopper 1 is still a wedge, though it has some extra parts on both sides. I have used and destroyed two of those Copper type of axes and I experienced them to be very hard to work because of heavy weight. The result did not satisfy me . The original one, I think, is called SUPERSPALTER from Canada. The copy was made in China. I have both of those, but they are without the extra parts, because the mechanism was not strong enough. I think I purchased the first one sometimes on 1980.
> The form of the LEVERAXE is onesided, all the weight is on the right side. When the blade hits the wood, it penetrates to the block only about 5 millimeters and bends to the right. This was the friction part. Then the blade puches the split away up to eight (8) centimeters (3+ inches) from the block, because of the kinetic energy. Then the blade stops on the block. All this happens very fast.
> My opinnion is that there are no similarities be-tween the wedge-type axes and the LEVERAXE. Maybe the wooden handle, but I think you did not mean that. Go to my homepages and see the wideos.( GOOGLE VIPUKIRVES)
> Regards FINLAND



Thank you for your note. Like the leveraxe, the chopper does not penetrate very far into the wood. For that reason, it rarely gets stuck. It is much lighter than either my standard maul, or my father's "Monster Maul". It is heavier than my axe, though.

If the leveraxe is significantly lighter, I am interested in trying it.

I have one question. I burn my wood in a Tarm, for which the recommended length is 18". Will that be a problem for leveraxe?

I think the leveraxe principle is also similar to a technique in using an axe to split. In that, as the axe hits the wood, the user twists the handle, so that the blade is pushing sideways as wells as down as it enters the wood. I think the leveraxe does this automatically in a consistent way.


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## ShoerFast

I like the saying , "You learn something every day" .

From the video, 
Never occurred to me that putting wood in a tire would be such a handy item, if you really want a lot of smaller splits. 

Had a couple orders for campfire bundles and some for a chimania, what short work in a tire!


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## Finland

*18"*



bob621 said:


> Thank you for your note. Like the leveraxe, the chopper does not penetrate very far into the wood. For that reason, it rarely gets stuck. It is much lighter than either my standard maul, or my father's "Monster Maul". It is heavier than my axe, though.
> 
> If the leveraxe is significantly lighter, I am interested in trying it.
> 
> I have one question. I burn my wood in a Tarm, for which the recommended length is 18". Will that be a problem for leveraxe?
> 
> I think the leveraxe principle is also similar to a technique in using an axe to split. In that, as the axe hits the wood, the user twists the handle, so that the blade is pushing sideways as wells as down as it enters the wood. I think the leveraxe does this automatically in a consistent way.



Hello bob 621
The weight of the LEVERAXE is 2,5 kolograms (5+ pounds)
It is made specially to the lenght of 10 inches for any type of wood you can find in Finland. 
I have splitted a lot of wood that is 20 inches long. So it depends much of the guality and the structure of the block. In wintertime when the wood is frozen, I have splitted one meter long blocks (30 inches)
I am not familiar with the trees you have there, but I think that in northern parts of the continent we have same type of the trees.
You are guite tight, The functions of the LEVERAXE is fully automatic. All you have to do, is to loosen your grip at the end of the hit. and let the laws of physics to operate. The handle will rotate in your hands and does not hurt your wrists at all.
Regards FINLAND


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## Finland

*Tire*



ShoerFast said:


> I like the saying , "You learn something every day" .
> 
> From the video,
> Never occurred to me that putting wood in a tire would be such a handy item, if you really want a lot of smaller splits.
> 
> Had a couple orders for campfire bundles and some for a chimania, what short work in a tire!



Hi
Be careful when using a tire with a traditional, conventional axe, because it penetrates all the way throw the block. Sooner or later there will be a split under the handle and there is achanse to cut the handle or get a heavy concussion to your hands.
The LEVERAXE always remains on the block, it newer gos through the block
Regards FINLAND


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## bob621

*best use of old tires*

Old tires are especially good for doing smaller diameter rounds. I bolt a couple of tires together and put that on top of a flat rock. Any splitting device (like the leveraxe) won't penetrate through to the stone, but the rock ensures that none of the impact is damped by earth. And you don't have to lift the block that you are splitting any higher than the height of a tire (or two).

If you use a maul or axe with a tire, it's better to use one with a fiberglass handle, and to have the base be something that won't hurt the blade of the maul or axe, or to use at least two tires - the tires may stop the handle, and so keep the blade from hitting the ground/rock.


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## Finland

*Inquiry*



Mr. Firewood said:


> wow, between the 6 of us we have wore the paint off of that axe, I like it. I have to figure out how to edit all this video so I can load it on you-tube, I figure I split about a cord and a half (5 ricks) with it, after the first rick I got the hang of it and could knock silver maple and red oak apart as fast as the helpers would bring it pm me if you would like the axe shipped to you and I will get it out within the next week or so



Hi!
Can the video be seen already? Where?
Where is THE LEVERAXE now?
Regards Finland


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## Adkpk

It's out in my woodshed. I am going out to get busy with it.


----------



## Adkpk

I am struggling with the leveraxe. I love the tool itself. Great craftsmanship on the making of it. And it does just what it says. But not in knotted wood. I had it going like pro. Knocking one piece off after another until you get into something that has a knot. Even longer pieces than 16"s, no problem. Not that my maul can split a log with these knots without really banging the hell out of it.
I would love to go back and forth splitting clear wood with the leveraxe and saving the knotty wood for the rent-a-splitter but for $280. uh, uh. Although I did figure that 280 is probably something a lot less painful if one is making Finish money. Never been there but if it's anything comparable to Scandinavian currency, I think it is, then 280 is a lot cheaper to the Fins. I mean like a ham sandwich in Sweden is like $15 US. A ham sandwich around here is like 5. So divide 280 by three and I just might like to have this axe. But that ain't real. 

So, if you want to give it a try, pm with your address and I will try to get it off next week. 

Thanks, ericjeeper and Finland for giving me a shot.


----------



## logbutcher

*LeverAxe Review*

Conclusions ? Give us reviews compared to the usual mauls and wedges.
Is it worth trying out ? 

We manage our woodlot, some pulp ( 4' softwood), blowdowns, and the yearly 5-6 cords of firewood hardwoods, and 1+ cord of spruce/fir for the hot tub and short fires. I'm close to 2/3 done with the buck pile splitting and stacking...the tough knotty short SOB's :biggrinbounce2: get thrown into the "later" pile. The larger bucks to 18" + need to be split in 1/2 by monster maul, standard hardware store splitting mauls, or wedges before humping up to the electric splitter. So, there's near 2 cords left to split. 

LOve to look at the stacks   . ( We've done this in another thread)


----------



## Finland

*Knotty Block*



Adrpk said:


> I am struggling with the leveraxe. I love the tool itself. Great craftsmanship on the making of it. And it does just what it says. But not in knotted wood. I had it going like pro. Knocking one piece off after another until you get into something that has a knot. Even longer pieces than 16"s, no problem. Not that my maul can split a log with these knots without really banging the hell out of it.
> I would love to go back and forth splitting clear wood with the leveraxe and saving the knotty wood for the rent-a-splitter but for $280. uh, uh. Although I did figure that 280 is probably something a lot less painful if one is making Finish money. Never been there but if it's anything comparable to Scandinavian currency, I think it is, then 280 is a lot cheaper to the Fins. I mean like a ham sandwich in Sweden is like $15 US. A ham sandwich around here is like 5. So divide 280 by three and I just might like to have this axe. But that ain't real.
> 
> So, if you want to give it a try, pm with your address and I will try to get it off next week.
> 
> Thanks, ericjeeper and Finland for giving me a shot.



Hi
Good to see that you are getting close to the splitting idea with the LEVERAXE.
As you found out the straight wood is very easy to split. Anyway the knots are not any problem when using the LEVERAXE. I tell you why.
With the leveraxe you can hit to a side of the block without having the fear that you might hurt yourself. This means that you can take wood away be-tween the knots and branches and this way you can weaken the structure of the block. In these days I try to find blocks with a lot of brunches to get some challenge to my splittings. You see , this way I must "use my head" as well to get good result. This gives me a lot of satisfaction, too.
So far the LAVERAXE has given 100% security to it`s users. If you are looking at the price, you must realize that this is a totally new tool, patented and using totally different method for splitting. This is mostly hand made, too. This has taken a lot of money. This also gives you a lot of efficiency , security and fun.
In near future this is available to order to USA, as well.Go to my homepages every now and then to check the situation.
All the best from Finland


----------



## Adkpk

Sent it off to gruff4531 today. Should be getting it in seven to ten days. Let's see how he does with it. I didn't do to much with it. Maybe five logs by me and not sure how many by my helper. But I did noticed he worked mostly with the maul more than going to the leveraxe.


----------



## computeruser

Finland said:


> With the leveraxe you can hit to a side of the block without having the fear that you might hurt yourself.
> 
> So far the LAVERAXE has given 100% security to it`s users.




The lawyer in me gets the feeling that this is NOT the kind of guarantee that I would want to be attaching to my product. People _will_ hurt themselves or others with this tool, just as they do with any other tool, and when they come to sue you for negligence in design or manufacture or for not giving proper safety instrucitons or some other innane thing like that, you will have opened the door to lose everything you own. Don't forget, here in the USA we have trials where juries award people millions for suffering an injury when they spill coffee on themselves and the coffee is, yup, hot. Imagine that - hot coffee?! Who would have figured!

That said, it is an interesting product and if the price was reasonble I'd buy one, just to thank you for sending one for us to try out.


----------



## blis

computeruser said:


> The lawyer in me gets the feeling that this is NOT the kind of guarantee that I would want to be attaching to my product. People _will_ hurt themselves or others with this tool, just as they do with any other tool, and when they come to sue you for negligence in design or manufacture or for not giving proper safety instrucitons or some other innane thing like that, you will have opened the door to lose everything you own. Don't forget, here in the USA we have trials where juries award people millions for suffering an injury when they spill coffee on themselves and the coffee is, yup, hot. Imagine that - hot coffee?! Who would have figured!
> 
> That said, it is an interesting product and if the price was reasonble I'd buy one, just to thank you for sending one for us to try out.



well its not our problem that american law system is totally ?????ed up...


----------



## Finland

*Do Not Worry*



computeruser said:


> The lawyer in me gets the feeling that this is NOT the kind of guarantee that I would want to be attaching to my product. People _will_ hurt themselves or others with this tool, just as they do with any other tool, and when they come to sue you for negligence in design or manufacture or for not giving proper safety instrucitons or some other innane thing like that, you will have opened the door to lose everything you own. Don't forget, here in the USA we have trials where juries award people millions for suffering an injury when they spill coffee on themselves and the coffee is, yup, hot. Imagine that - hot coffee?! Who would have figured!
> 
> That said, it is an interesting product and if the price was reasonble I'd buy one, just to thank you for sending one for us to try out.



Thank you very much for your consern.
Obviously there is a litle misunderstanding conserning the guarantee.
The guarantee is:
"We will provide a replacement blade in the event of manufacturing defects becoming evident within 10 years.
Damages caused by poor maintenance or negligent handling are not covered by this guarantee."
Based to my,and many others experiences, the blade always stops on the block, or at least slows it´s move so much, that it is easy to handle.
Comparing to the old, traditional/conventional (WEDGE)axes, the LEVERAXE is really much saver than any other hand operational wood-splitting apparatus ever made after the stone age.
I do not see much sense in the idea that I should bury this genius invention just because that some American opportunist should try to make a fortune with an artificial accident. 
So far there has not happened any accidences, not a single one, with the LEVERAXE/VIPUKIRVES.
By knowing based to the statistics, there has happened thousands of different kind of accidences with the traditional/conventional (wedge) axes during the time when VIPUKIRVES/LEVERAXE has been on the market.
My opinion is, that it is worth wile for me to take the chance that somebody will sue me when I know ,that at the same time I can save a lot of people from the injuries by using the LEVERAXE/VIPUKIRVES.
Of course there may be a very little, almost non existent chance that somebody might hurt himself with the LEVERAXE, but I doubt it.
Important is, that you read the instruction booklet.
All the best from FINLAND.
www.vipukirves.fi


----------



## gruff4531

*Lever Axe Arrived Today*

I am planning on using it Friday and Saturday splitting some silver maple I need to get split up. I should have some pictures and a review sometime early next week. 

PM me if some shipping info and I will send it on.


----------



## danlauer6

pm sent


----------



## ericjeeper

*Glad to hear it is back to making the rounds*

Thanks guys for keeping this in motion.


----------



## gruff4531

*Weekend of use*

Let me first start off by saying, this is quite possibly the best built/manufactured splitting maul I have used. As for the performance I would say it preformed as advertised when used within the designed use of this axe.

All the wood I usually split is maple hickory and oak between 16 and 18 inches in length and I own a brave 22 ton log splitter which I use for most of my splitting, the only reason I have been using a maul is to chuck the bigger rounds into manageable size and weight. 

I first tried using the leveraxe to do this and it did not preform very well at all, but then again it isn't its intended use. 

From this test I try to split off small pieces starting from the left side like it shown on the video and this worked with moderate success, the one thing I did not like was only being able to work from left to right (I usually like to work off both side at the same time). After splitting 10 or 11 24" rounds I cut my self 3 - 12" long rounds and began work on them. In this capacity the leveraxe worked much like it worked on the video on the website. I was able to work my way through those rounds in quick time.

Problems: Like a few people have said before me the leveraxe did not perform very well when confronted with knotty wood. Also when being used in would over 13" in length the performance of this splitter falls off quite a bit. Turning the off the voice of experience was difficult making the transition from using a run of the mill 8lb maul to the leveraxe took a little time.

Possible changes in design: Overall I really liked and understood the concept and design of the axe. The only possible changes I would suggest is lengthening the taper on the striking edge of the axe. I believe this would give the axe more penetration into the wood and making it easier to split wood over 13" in length. Also I would like to see the handle about another 3 - 5 inches longer (but I am 6'4" and like more leverage)

Overall impression: I liked it and when used in the prescribed manor it preforms very well. As I stated before, the craftsmanship is very good. It works better in straight grained wood, but what maul doesn't. 

I enjoyed testing/using this axe and will be sending it one sometime this week.


----------



## Moddoo

nice write up.
I would like to get this sometime.
I have a nice pile of 18'-24' Dia. ash to finish before winter.
I will take some video of it in action.

how does a guy "get in line" ?


----------



## danlauer6

I think that I am next and how you get in line is by doing what you just did ask for it. So if I get it next I will let you know and then you can PM me your address and when I am done I will send it on its way.


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## JBFab

I am also interested in taking a swing at this (no pun intended). Interesting looking design, sign me up!


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## gruff4531

*It is sent on*

I sent the axe via DHL on Tuesday and should arrive in the next day or 2. I was able to use the axe a bit more this past weekend on so 16" red oak. The axe performed exactly like it has on previous trys.


----------



## danlauer6

I will keep a look out for it and will post when I receive it


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## danlauer6

Came home from work last night and there it was. I will be trying it out this weekend and then sending it on its way to Moddoo.


----------



## 24d

hey----where is the end of the line, Id like a swing also?


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## JBFab

I think I'm next, and AFIK I am at the end of the line so far.


----------



## danlauer6

JBFab said:


> I think I'm next, and AFIK I am at the end of the line so far.



I will be sending it on to Moddoo On the 14th Via UPS I will PM you with the tracking number when I get it.


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## blis

this video deserves to be posted here, taken from finnish site of vipukirves... chinese log splitter vs. leveraxe...

http://www.vipukirves.fi/media/vipukirves_kilpailu.wmv


----------



## elaps

I would be interested in splitting some wood with this add me to the list also

Thanks,

Evan


----------



## 24d

JBFab said:


> I think I'm next, and AFIK I am at the end of the line so far.



did you get it yet, how is it?


----------



## danlauer6

I just sent it off to Moddoo yesterday.


----------



## gruff4531

*Well*

What did you think of the axe?


----------



## danlauer6

Was ok on the smaller Dia (under 26" and 16"-18" long) oak, maple, cherry, mulberry, and locust. Once I went into the bigger Dia rounds I was not to happy with it. When I went into the knotty wood some of the splits where ok but more times than not it would shot a small piece off. Just watch that no people are around when you are splitting at times they really fly off. I will stick to my splitting maul as I like larger pieces of wood.


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## Moddoo

Hey all,
I got this thing last week.
It looks impressive. Well built, sharp forged head, nice handle & guard.
Seems like it will last a while.
I don't know how many guys have used it, but it is not showing much wear.

I got a chance to try it out last night.
My rounds are 18"-26" green ash. 
I split a bunch of it in the fall and it was a bit stringy, like elm.
It splits nicer now that it's frozen. -duh
When the pieces were straight grained & no knots, it worked pretty well.
However, there seems to be a point where it is useless on tougher pieces.
No matter how hard I swung it, it would not split some stuff.
I did my best to let it do it's thing and pivot on the log.
I was using my Fiscars ax as backup. 
The pieces that I could not get with the Leveraxe, were not really tough with the Fiscars.
I think this thing would be great for straight oak.
However, all my oak is split.

I will try again this weekend and give it my best shot.

It is a cool tool, and I want to find out where it shines.


----------



## grandpatractor

Hey Moddoo, let me know when your done with it, Jonseredsjonny and I would like to try it or if ya want you can just bring it up some time this weekend. We got lots of oak to try it on:hmm3grin2orange: 
pm me if ya want to get together


----------



## Moddoo

IT WORKS
I gave it another try last night.
This thing does perform well. I got into some rounds that had less than 3 knots. LOL
It is easy to swing and will produce large splits.
I was splitting 12" rounds in half with out much effort.
A very nice feature is that the axe stays on top of your work.
It will not pass through the round. It will not hit the ground or your foot.
This makes it safe and very easy to lift for another swing.
I used a tire on my block and it is a good partner for this tool.
When choosing your strikes on more difficult rounds, this axe likes a slightly different strategy than I am used to.
I also found it was more likely to work well when hitting the bottom of the rounds compared to the tops.
I like it and it is an efficient tool when you get to know it.
It is not the replacement for every traditional splitting tool, but it works well for what it is designed for.
I will finish my pile this week and then bring it over to Grandpatractor's this weekend if he's available.
Then I will ship it out to the next guy.


----------



## danlauer6

Did you try anything over 12" Dia? opcorn:


----------



## Moddoo

danlauer6 said:


> Did you try anything over 12" Dia? opcorn:



Yep, most of my rounds were over 18".
Once I got used to it, making 4"-5" splits was pretty easy.
I like some larger pieces too, and would not be happy if this thing was only good for kindling.

1/2 of a 12" is plenty big for my needs.


----------



## JBFab

is this thing still going around, I think I'm next


----------



## 24d

Moddoo done took that thing an split! hahaha:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## ericjeeper

*Hey who is Bogarting the leveraxe again.*

Lets share so we can eventually get it back to the lender. he was nice enough to let me start this around to review the axe. So if you have it please box it back up and ship it on. Thanks


----------



## Moddoo

24d said:


> Moddoo done took that thing an split! hahaha:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:



LOL
true
Wood that is.

Gonna get it shipped out soon.
Grandpatractor wants to stop by and pick it up.
He lives close by.
Then we will get it out to the next guy.
Sorry for the delay, been in the deep freeze, and not really thinking about splitting much.


----------



## ericjeeper

*Thanks for keeping us informed*

Glad to hear it is still in existence.LOL


----------



## user 19670

*This sounds interesting to me*



Moddoo said:


> A very nice feature is that the axe stays on top of your work.
> It will not pass through the round. It will not hit the ground or your foot.
> This makes it safe and very easy to lift for another swing.



Already hit my foot this year. Only a small cut but . . . it COULD have been very serious. The leveraxe doesn't follow through and so shouldn't present the same level of risk that my axe does. The videos show less effort needed than with a maul and much greater speed than a splitter.

I used to use a maul and had to use a roundhouse swing, pick up a piece, roundhouse again, etc.
My neighbour showed me how he uses a standard 2-12 lb. axe and he can just lift and drop like I see on the video. He still has to pick up the pieces between swings but his method was so much faster than mine I went and bought a new axe but got one with an unbreakable handle since it is a 2 hr round trip to get a new handle. The axe cost me 42 smackers so the price of the leveraxe won't scare me away.
The leveraxe used with the tire keeps you swinging instead of picking stuff back up. Like with any method of splitting, I will find those stubborn pieces and keep them for the log splitter.

This has been a fine thread with lots of useful feedback. Thanks for the info.


----------



## GeeVee

So, I guess it would be up to me to ask GrandpaTractor to send it to me? 

I own uber-acres of Oak Hammock, and have some Oak and Hickory, Magnoilia and Sweet gum to render smaller.

Will be sure to post plenty of pics and histories.


----------



## grandpatractor

GeeVee said:


> So, I guess it would be up to me to ask GrandpaTractor to send it to me?
> 
> I own uber-acres of Oak Hammock, and have some Oak and Hickory, Magnoilia and Sweet gum to render smaller.
> 
> Will be sure to post plenty of pics and histories.



Hey GeeVee, I just got back from Florida. We put 3750 miles on the ol motorhome in 9 days. PM me with your address and we'll send it out as soon I jonseredsjonny and I get done trying it out. We missed out on the big deep freeze up here. I guess I better publicly thank jonseredsjonny for feeding my owb while I was gone.


----------



## HEAVY FUEL

GeeVee lives in florida you could have delivered it to him grandpatractor.


----------



## grandpatractor

jonseredsjonny said:


> GeeVee lives in florida you could have delivered it to him grandpatractor.



Do you think the airline will let you bring it down to him in your carryon luggage?:jawdrop:


----------



## woodchuck361

*me too me too*

after GeeVee I would like to have a go at it. Just split 5 cord this weekend and have a lot more to go.


----------



## JBFab

_posted 11/08/07_


JBFab said:


> I am also interested in taking a swing at this (no pun intended). Interesting looking design, sign me up!



I'm still interested in taking a swing at this thing, if it is still going around.


----------



## Jefflee1

I would also like to give this axe a few swings..

Jeff


----------



## cmetalbend

Interesting how deflection was always a safty concern and this guy has come up with a way to not only make it occur, but harness it.


----------



## gtstang462002

I wouldn't mind giving it a swing here in southern maryland...


----------



## 24d

24d said:


> 11-10-07 -hey----where is the end of the line, Id like a swing also?





JBFab said:


> 11-12-07 -I think I'm next, and AFIK I am at the end of the line so far.



Hey who is where and where am I?


----------



## clawmute

The design looks good. Seems like several sizes of increasing mass would be a benefit. I watched the videos, etc.


----------



## Zodiac45

blis said:


> from the site, the price is 199e which is around 270dollars, pretty expensive...



Wow that's pricey! I can buy me 2/3 of a Dolmar 5100s for that! That said the idea is a simple but effective one. I'm sure it's great for ash and clear woods.


----------



## grandpatractor

*I Got It!!*

I got it from moddoo last weekend and Jonseredsjonny and I will be trying it out this weekend and then we'll be sending it on to geevee.


----------



## 24d

I guess I'm going about getting on the list the wrong way. How is it done?


----------



## GeeVee

scroll back a page or two, find out who's next....

Like I have to do to figgure out who I have to send it to.


----------



## woodchuck361

I called after GeeVee But in looking at it I think you were before me so I guess GeeVee should send the axe to you and then you send it to me.


----------



## 24d

I signed up in oct. I think I was after JBfab has he had it yet?

Later,


----------



## grandpatractor

Just checking in to see if Geevee has gotten to use it yet. I apoligize for not sending it sooner. My udder brudder grabbed it and I had to go retrieve it. 
I thought it worked good for making small stuff but I think that my fiskars it just as good for a lot less money. The fiskars will work alot better on the big stuff too.


----------



## GeeVee

I got it this week. Will use it Sunday.

Been a little strained around here losing a brother in law to a motorcycle accident. My sisters man was ran over from behind while waiting to turn left. Then a week later another less noble sudden tragic death to a relative's brother, over a broken heart, and last evening, a nephew losing control and ruining his life for the foreseeable future with drugs and alcohol mixed with a little mental illness- lots of hurt feelings and ill will for too many reasons around me right now. 

I'm a family kind of guy- blood is all that matters, so I've been beat down.

I can't wait to get down to the Ranch and try this axe out, its been a few weeks since I've been able to get down there.


----------



## grandpatractor

Wow, I'm sorry for your loss. I ride motorcycle and I know how dangerous it can be. I had a coworker hit a deer. he was laid up for a couple months. I hope thing get better for your family.


----------



## JBFab

24d said:


> I signed up in oct. I think I was after JBfab has he had it yet?
> 
> Later,



Nope, not yet


----------



## GeeVee

Who next?

I was non plussed for the most part. Maybe I'm too short, and hands too small. And my wood and needs are not for splitting. I've got blown down Oak and Hickory, Bass and Gum, 16"-24"d and 12-16"L. 

I read through the replies a wee bit, and can't understand it yet. 

We've a Stihl long wood handle maul for a few years, and it works. This year we got the Stihl short plastic splliting ax, and it works better. We use both, for sure, actually. Having more than one tool is good. 

I will ask my son to post his take on the Leveraxe when he gets home, he used it more than I.

Thanks to the owner and sponsor of the test.

Next person PM me?


----------



## Haywire Haywood

Maybe you guys need a list, put an * next to who has it now and the next guy copy the list into a new post and add his name. That way there's less confusion and you can always look back to the last list posted and see who's next in line and who has it now.

Ian


----------



## lwalper

Dollars are down, price is up -- 190 Euros = $300. Looks lik an interesting tool for that nice straight grained European maple, or whatever he was splitting. Can't imagine it being that easy in nice American Elm - that's what I burned all winter this year - clearing out the right of way under the power lines. That's got to be just about the stringiest stuff I've ever seen, but it sure burns nice.


----------



## tatra805

Was just thinking about this design.
Dont want to judge the axe, had no chance to try it but still a couple of points bother me..

1. Looks light: splitting is impact, so the more weight at the higher speed = the more splitting force. I am not sure how it all compares but a 10kg sledge hammer driven at say x speed has X force, how fast does a 1kg axe then has to go to generate the same force. AND thus the question if you can get to this speed by handsplitting with this axe. 

Design can help but i am only wondering as i see a lot of old slow men splitting big wood and not turning out to be so slow just because they can raise their heavy hammer all day long at the same tempo. (while we young ones are out after 1 hour sprinting)

2. As already mentioned, the splitting demonstrated is questionable for big hardwood but looks nice for kindlings.

3. one of you posted somewhere on AS a kindling axe with assymetric design. I have a similar one, found in one of the barns when we bought the house so it can be easily over 50 years old. Principle is the same as a wood chisel, you remove a small part over the slope side of the axe while the vertical side is driving into the wood perfectly vertical. Looks as this new design is playing on this principle.

My point, if you want to split a round in half, you better drive with a symetrical wedge. (sledge hammer or splitting axe, does not matter) If you want to take a shaving of, go for a assymetrical design.


We have (no pictures found but i'll try to post one later) some splitting axes going around here with hinged ram-pieces in the wedge. If you hit the wood the first 3inch of the wedge split in the classic way and then the ram-pieces make contact and press the wood open. 

What i saw about these is that they work till 16'' but all bigger you just stop the axe dead when these ram-pieces make contact and you get a smash in your arms. 

So universal design is univeral. dedicated design may be optimal but only within its bandwidth.


----------



## 24d

JBFab said:


> Nope, not yet



For some reason I can't send you a PM. I'll try to keep a check, if you get it I'll get my address to you somehow.

Later,


----------



## Finland

*Try to THINK more*

tatra 805
The idea of the design is not only to amuse somebody's eyes. The design is made strictly to perform totally different way comparing to the conventional axes. With the LEVERAXE we get exactly the same kinetic force than with any other axes. After that everything is different. When the blade of the LEVERAXE touches to the wood, it starts to bend, lean, turn, to the right because the blade is one-sided, the centre of gravity is on the right side of the striking line. This means, that the blade will make very fast movement fully automatically. It happens so fast that you cannot see it. At this fraction of a second it will spread the wood up to 8 centimeters (7,5) inches. After this action the blade stops on the block, it will NOT continue anywhere from the top of the block. So, by other words saying, we get the same kinetic force+ the LEVERAGE. Think what happens when you are using an iron bar. First you hit it close to a stone or something, then you TWIST to get the FORCE. This same happens FULLY AUTOMATICALLY when working with LEVERAXE. This unique tool has now been on the market over 2,5 years . There has not happened any accidences, not a single one. 
I fully understand that this is not very easy to understand, it only took for million years until we got some improvement to the stone age axes. (wedge)
All the best from FINLAND


----------



## tatra805

@ Finland,

No offence intended! 
I fully support all initiatives and different approaches on anything in life. I just want to see it working on a 20+'' oak round, splitting it in half with a couple of swings. 
Probably 'not intended use' will come as an answer and that is exactly my point. In all honesty, it looks as the leveraxe would serve me much better than a classic axe for about 75% of the manual splitting I am doing.

But at the other side, it is not an MS361, it will not cure cancer, it just might be damn good in making firewood from small rounds.. 

But i am (going from the vids and feedback) still thinking that for the big stuff it will not bring a benefit over the classic way.

Look, i have split trees sawn to rounds of hardwood that would not break loose with 4 wedges fully blown in. (nice rounds not roots or Y splits or other junk) You need a lot of energy to have a 300kg round to split and i wonder how you are generating it with this light concept.

You might have a point when you would indicate a different splitting technique is to be applied with the leveraxe (going in a spiral around the round till you reach the middle) and maybe i would have to try this out and then conclude my classic axe is worthless in this and the leveraxe much bettter. BUT that does not change my point: using things for what they are intended. 

From a commercial point i think the leveraxe will greatly serve all home splitters and it should become a succes.

About difficulty to understand things, Einstein once said it this way: If we would know what we are doing, it wouldnt be called research would it?

Please tell me more, I like to understand...


----------



## Finland

*Understanding*



tatra805 said:


> @ Finland,
> 
> No offence intended!
> I fully support all initiatives and different approaches on anything in life. I just want to see it working on a 20+'' oak round, splitting it in half with a couple of swings.
> Probably 'not intended use' will come as an answer and that is exactly my point. In all honesty, it looks as the leveraxe would serve me much better than a classic axe for about 75% of the manual splitting I am doing.
> 
> But at the other side, it is not an MS361, it will not cure cancer, it just might be damn good in making firewood from small rounds..
> 
> But i am (going from the vids and feedback) still thinking that for the big stuff it will not bring a benefit over the classic way.
> 
> Look, i have split trees sawn to rounds of hardwood that would not break loose with 4 wedges fully blown in. (nice rounds not roots or Y splits or other junk) You need a lot of energy to have a 300kg round to split and i wonder how you are generating it with this light concept.
> 
> You might have a point when you would indicate a different splitting technique is to be applied with the leveraxe (going in a spiral around the round till you reach the middle) and maybe i would have to try this out and then conclude my classic axe is worthless in this and the leveraxe much bettter. BUT that does not change my point: using things for what they are intended.
> 
> From a commercial point i think the leveraxe will greatly serve all home splitters and it should become a succes.
> 
> About difficulty to understand things, Einstein once said it this way: If we would know what we are doing, it wouldnt be called research would it?
> 
> Please tell me more, I like to understand...



I can very clearly see that you do not quite understand this new way to split the wood. 
-One very big difference be-tween the LEVERAXE and the conventional axe is that the LEVERAXE is very safe for the user.
-An other difference is that you know BEFORE every strike that the axeblade will stop on the block or slow down the speed so much that you can fully control the axe.
-You can take very small slices from the side of the block when needed to weeken the structure of the block. You will need this tecnique when there are a lot of brunches.
-With this tecnique you can leave the brunches as individual slpits.
-There is no need to divide in half the big blocks. 
-You can split on the ground or on the rock the heavy blocks, because the axeblade does not penetrate throw the block.
-You have extra power with the LEVERAXE because the friction takes only a minimum part of the kinetic energy. 
The axeblade penetrates to the block only five millimeters on its best.
-The LEVERAXE tecnique turns all the power to the left in a fraction of a second. You cannot see the split when it looses from the block.
-The split always flies to the left from the axeblade. With the conventional axe you never know where the split will fly, too often to your head.
-There has not happened any accidences with LEVERAXE.

I have watched the splittings in YOU TUBE. There are a lot of examples of the conventional ways of woodsplittings. My opinion is, that those examples are very workable, dangerous and oldfashioned. Splitting with LEVERAXE is much more effective, much faster, more fun, it will give you a lot of joy when you can split your firewood without the fear that you might hurt yourself. 
By the way, do you fasten your seatbelt BEFORE or AFTER the accident???
With the LEVERAXE you do not have to worry about this, because the safety features are already built in to the axe, so that you cannot hurt yourself.
You can stay on your familiar way to make your firewood, but remember,that " MR.MURPHY" is a very patient "person" looking for the chanse that you will hit to your foot. This happens around 4500 times every year in Finland. I do not consider this very fun. Anyway.....
All the best from FINLAND 
www.vipukirves.fi


----------



## tatra805

At Finland: We are discussing right? I am open for arguments and i can accept you like this tool but then the argument should be ' I like A better then B' 

so here we go:



> I can very clearly see that *you do not quite understand this new way to split the wood. *
> -One very big difference be-tween the LEVERAXE and the conventional axe is that the LEVERAXE is very safe for the user.
> 
> I dont see a point here how that is related to my understanding. And in all honesty if i hit myself in the head with an axe, an leveraxe or a hammer it will hurt in each case.
> I do see 1 thing, for a 8 year old both are equally dangerous. The point is an 8 year old is not (in general) supposed to split wood.
> 
> If i want it to be 100% safe i buy ready split wood.
> 
> -An other difference is that you know BEFORE every strike that the axeblade will stop on the block or slow down the speed so much that you can fully control the axe.
> 
> I do know that if i strike hard enough with my axe that the head will hit the ground in the radius that my arm + handle are describing. I can control this radius = arm, force = muscle.
> IF i put my foot in this zone i do have the chance of hitting it, there you are right
> 
> If i wear a helmet when trying to walk through a wall i will hurt myself less. etc
> 
> -You can take very small slices from the side of the block when needed to weeken the structure of the block. You will need this tecnique when there are a lot of brunches.
> 
> Sorry, but here you are loosing the point a bit. I do want to weaken the structure of the block that much that it splits. point.
> 
> -With this tecnique you can leave the brunches as individual slpits.
> 
> tik-tak-tik-tak time is running. As with a conventional axe you are showing me alternative methods to solve the initial point: it does not split PITA pieces.
> 
> -There is no need to divide in half the big blocks.
> 
> And here we come to the point. I dont need kindlings, i need pieces as big as possible so they burn long time and i have less movements to make in splitting, hauling my wood to the house and filling up the stove. I do need to split the block in halve, 1/4 etc.
> 
> -You can split on the ground or on the rock the heavy blocks, because the axeblade does not penetrate throw the block.
> 
> I cannot split the heavy blocks, i can shave of pieces only. I dont care what is under the block. My splitting axe can hit rock or ground, by the time it traveled 25'' through the wood the speed is reduced enough not to split the rock or severely damage the head. Why? because in any case i can estimate and regulate the force i have to put in my swing.
> 
> -You have extra power with the LEVERAXE because the friction takes only a minimum part of the kinetic energy.
> 
> BUT you dont enter the wood more than 5mm ???? If we would be talking about trying to slice the wood as with a knive you would need your kinetic energy to move through the wood and avoid the friction as much as possible.
> 
> But as you stated already an axe is a wedge so you want friction, the more the better as friction in this case is the result of the wedge action and thus indicating the splitting forces (horizontal forces if you like)
> 
> + you dont have more power. explain me how i can have more power????????? I put X energy in moving the head= swing, as the head of the leveraxe is lighter than an conventional axe i even have less power as gravity is helping me less. I only used a little less energy for the swing.
> 
> You are confusing the initial and reactional forces here. Even if the kinetic energy is the same, the friction is a result of the wedge action. You dont need wedge action you want to transfer your kinetic energy in a different force... point below
> 
> 
> -The axeblade penetrates to the block only five millimeters on its best.
> 
> Point?
> 
> so where goes the kinetic energy... point below
> 
> -The LEVERAXE tecnique turns all the power to the left in a fraction of a second. You cannot see the split when it looses from the block.
> 
> I do understand this but now hold on a moment:
> splitting in the middle:
> total block weight: 30kg
> half round: 15kg
> You hit with a power of lets say 30kg
> 
> Calculate some inertia, friction etc but i still dont see why the right piece would also not be moved in oposite direction when the head pushes the left block away.
> 
> 
> I do understand why left: on the left side is the small piece you are shaving off the round. So basically what you are doing is directing the lower kinetec energy (from a lighter tool dont forget) to 1 point so you concentrate your resulting power on the weakest part; being the small part of the block which you want to split off.
> 
> Congrats but the only difference with a normal symetrical axe is that you are using your power a little more efficient for all splits that are not centered in the middle of the round (round of 4'' or 39'' does not matter).
> That way you are able to keep your tool lighter also, which takes away your advantage again...
> 
> If you would have taken a normal axe and grind the head assymetrical you would have reached the same + you would have more impact force as the head is x times heavier. Give it a try.
> 
> -The split always flies to the left from the axeblade. With the conventional axe you never know where the split will fly, too often to your head.
> 
> same as above but ok. except that, contrary of what you might think by now, till now nothing was flying to my head but rather splitting left-right in a proportion equal to the position on the crossline of the round by the head when it hits the wood.
> dont think this is very understandable but if i hit in the middle it is a 50-50, if i hit on 1/3 it is 70-30 etc IF i use a symetrical head.
> 
> In case i use an assymetrical head it would also fly left, or right depending on shape of head.
> 
> -There has not happened any accidences with LEVERAXE.
> 
> How many hits compared to 4 000 000 years of axe??




I also do not consider 4500 accidents as something funny. But what i consider even worse are safety measures that are sold expensive but are ineffective. A false sense of security kills more than 4500 times a year, also in your country. Be Aware.


----------



## Sprig

Finland said:


> I can very clearly see that you do not quite understand this new way to split the wood.
> -One very big difference be-tween the LEVERAXE and the conventional axe is that the LEVERAXE is very safe for the user.
> -An other difference is that you know BEFORE every strike that the axeblade will stop on the block or slow down the speed so much that you can fully control the axe.
> -You can take very small slices from the side of the block when needed to weeken the structure of the block. You will need this tecnique when there are a lot of brunches.
> -With this tecnique you can leave the brunches as individual slpits.
> -There is no need to divide in half the big blocks.
> -You can split on the ground or on the rock the heavy blocks, because the axeblade does not penetrate throw the block.
> -You have extra power with the LEVERAXE because the friction takes only a minimum part of the kinetic energy.
> The axeblade penetrates to the block only five millimeters on its best.
> -The LEVERAXE tecnique turns all the power to the left in a fraction of a second. You cannot see the split when it looses from the block.
> -The split always flies to the left from the axeblade. With the conventional axe you never know where the split will fly, too often to your head.
> -There has not happened any accidences with LEVERAXE.
> 
> I have watched the splittings in YOU TUBE. There are a lot of examples of the conventional ways of woodsplittings. My opinion is, that those examples are very workable, dangerous and oldfashioned. Splitting with LEVERAXE is much more effective, much faster, more fun, it will give you a lot of joy when you can split your firewood without the fear that you might hurt yourself.
> By the way, do you fasten your seatbelt BEFORE or AFTER the accident???
> With the LEVERAXE you do not have to worry about this, because the safety features are already built in to the axe, so that you cannot hurt yourself.
> You can stay on your familiar way to make your firewood, but remember,that " MR.MURPHY" is a very patient "person" looking for the chanse that you will hit to your foot. This happens around 4500 times every year in Finland. I do not consider this very fun. Anyway.....
> All the best from FINLAND
> www.vipukirves.fi


Hitting feet, hm, too short of handles, too high a cutting block, crappy technique, and, as far as the 'lever axe' goes for safety, people hurt themselves with Q-Tips, ergo its the user, not the tool imho. To make a claim to 'cannot hurt yourself' I find sort of preposterous, especially with a tool whacking wood up, come on now, I may have been born yesterday but it was a bright, bright, sunshiney day. 
And all the best ta Finland and its fine peoples!  



Serge


----------



## Finland

*Astonished*

tatra 805
I noticed that you came to these pages rather recently. 
Is there any chanse you could read the previouse writings, it might help you in understanding this new invention. 
I fully allow you to keep in your opinnion, it is your right. Anyway I want you ,too, to understand that the worl is developing all the time, and people make inventions. 
The LEVERAXE is patented especially because the new safety fearures and the new way to operate.
The reason why I make splits/kindlings, you can see in the videos, is because of the very developed heatin systems we have in Finland. 
Make yourself aquainted with the following websites:
www.tulikivi.com
www.nunnauuni.com
More information about the LEVERAXE , Search by word leveraxe.
I am not takeing anything away from you, on the contrary I try to give you safety to the rest of your life.
Best regards from Finland.
PS. GOOGLE vipukirves or leveraxe, there is a lot more to study.


----------



## Finland

Sprig said:


> Hitting feet, hm, too short of handles, too high a cutting block, crappy technique, and, as far as the 'lever axe' goes for safety, people hurt themselves with Q-Tips, ergo its the user, not the tool imho. To make a claim to 'cannot hurt yourself' I find sort of preposterous, especially with a tool whacking wood up, come on now, I may have been born yesterday but it was a bright, bright, sunshiney day.
> And all the best ta Finland and its fine peoples!
> 
> 
> 
> Serge



Very long time ago in the old times there was a group of wice men sitting under a Platan tree in Greece. They were discussing about the earth.Is it flat or round? What do you think, what is your opinion?
Believe me, it was very, very bright and sunshiney day.
May the sun shine on you every day.
Best wishes from Finland.


----------



## lwalper

Now, if it were just priced so I could afford to buy it . . .


----------



## ziggy2b

Finland said:


> Hi
> VIPUKIRVES/LEVERAXE has now been on the market for over two years.
> THERE HAVE BEEN NO ACCIDENT DURING THIS TIME.
> I welcome you to explore my on-line shop. Also visit the Finnish MEDIA pages. There are a lot of articles with pictures. This will help you to understand the functions of the tool. Enjoy testing the LEVERAXE.
> All the best from Finland.
> www.vipukirves.fi



I understand,It just seems to me when you build something idot proof,Mother nature comes along and builds a better idiot:deadhorse:


----------



## BlueRidgeMark

Finland said:


> I can very clearly see that you do not quite understand this new way to split the wood.



I can see very clearly that you have come up with a truly brilliant invention that works VERY well for certain types of wood, FAR better than the old methods. 

And it works _not at all_ for others.



So, if those types of wood are what you split, the Leveraxe is clearly the best choice and well worth the money.

For the other types of wood, it's pretty much worthless.


Hauling freight requires a different tool than hauling people. Welding mild steel requires a different rod than welding stainless steel. Splitting 12" poplar requires a different tool than splitting 36" oak.

Different jobs, different tools. Life works that way. 


You can recognize this fact, and market accordingly, or you can be blindly loyal to your design and insist it works better for all kinds of wood. This will cost you sales.

Your choice.


----------



## tatra805

*SOLID ARGUMENTS: missing*



> tatra 805
> I noticed that you came to these pages rather recently.
> Is there any chanse you could read the previouse writings, it might help you in understanding this new invention.
> I fully allow you to keep in your opinnion, it is your right. Anyway I want you ,too, to understand that the worl is developing all the time, and people make inventions.
> The LEVERAXE is patented especially because the new safety fearures and the new way to operate.
> The reason why I make splits/kindlings, you can see in the videos, is because of the very developed heatin systems we have in Finland.
> Make yourself aquainted with the following websites:
> www.tulikivi.com
> www.nunnauuni.com
> More information about the LEVERAXE , Search by word leveraxe.
> I am not takeing anything away from you, on the contrary I try to give you safety to the rest of your life.
> Best regards from Finland.
> PS. GOOGLE vipukirves or leveraxe, there is a lot more to study.
> 05-01-2008 01:25 AM




Finland,

I understand you are behind the leveraxe and its marketing. I do have to react to your answer.
Yes i am rather new to this site, what does this has to do with your axe??

I want to contribute to this thread so will ignore your suggestive writing. 

Be sure i do understand the principle of your tool. I tried (now several times) to get to a constructive discussion about your invention. Unfortunately you are repetitive in your answers but did not add any information , be it positive or negative- to my arguments or supplying me and the other readers with additional arguments to follow the (your) hype.

YOU are the seller. Not me. And as things stand, I am a non convinced spectator which has no interest in buying your product based on your argumentation. 

Please accept that i as a customer expect to be educated and convinced, call it brainwashed, by YOU the seller and that pointing out my shortage of knowledge is not a motivating salestechnique nor does it motivate your customer to go look for self education on YOUR product.

Having a testing public on a forum is a great cheap marketing trick, but then also accept the sceptics and the comments that follow from this public exposure. Stand prepared to defend.

Despite my open wood-profile (read my postings and you will know a lot about me) I do have another life. 
I probably have a thousand potential customers in my surroundings for your product. I do live in a country where 80% of the population is heating with wood (be it in advanced or less advanced systems as you wish).
I also do have amongst others a company which is selling in the home market and your tool would fit in my tooling range and scope of this company. 
I do have contacts nationwide with horse-loggers, being firewood suppliers etcetc 

But i dont see how i would be able to sell your tool to my customers using your argumentation technique. 

The commercial power of an invention lays in its marketing. 

Selling $hit in 4 color printed bags makes a lot of money just because its called fertilizer.



Remain safe,

Tatra 805


----------



## grandpatractor

I can see how it would be much safer. The right side of the axe actually grabs the right side block of wood . My brother used it in his basement on the cement floor since it won't penetrate clean thru.


----------



## Erick

I don't know where the list is now????? but I would like to get on it. Perhaps we could do as Ian suggested and post an updated list and then new signups could copy and past the list with their name on it into a new post.

I'd like to give this thing a try and see what it will do.

Promise to give it a fare and accurate write up with pictures and video if warranted.

Seems like a neat concept, and I've got everything from 10" pine and poplar to 28" hickory and 36" oak to try it on. I split everything by hand anyway and am very familier with the ring around the roundy concept.


----------



## Erick

As best I can tell I think the list looks like this

GeeVee - had it last according to posts
JBFab - may have it now??
24d
elaps ???? 1 post and has not signed on since 11-27-07 probably not still here
Woodchuck361
Jefflee1
gtstang462002
Erick

There are a lot of folks that posted comments in between these names but none said they wanted on the list if you were posting to get on the list please add your name in line where it should be.

If I left anyone out or got it wrong please post up and let me know.


----------



## JBFab

Erick said:


> As best I can tell I think the list looks like this
> 
> GeeVee - had it last according to posts
> JBFab - may have it now??


. . . 


nope, not yet, who do I need to PM my address to?


----------



## GeeVee

*A thousand Pardons.....*

I am responsible for having it longer than I should. Please accept my apologies. 

JB- it is on its way today to you. My secretary boxed it and its sat in her office, waiting on the address. I was confused you still wanted it last I checked. 

No matter, its on its way....

THANKS to the manufacturer and the member who cares to keep this pass around going. 

Again, sorry for mis-handling. 

GeeVee


----------



## 24d

GeeVee said:


> I am responsible for having it longer than I should. Please accept my apologies.
> 
> GeeVee




No problem! It's 100 degrees here I won't need it till september hahaha!!

Later,


----------



## gtstang462002

Erick said:


> As best I can tell I think the list looks like this
> 
> GeeVee - had it last according to posts
> JBFab - may have it now??
> 24d
> elaps ???? 1 post and has not signed on since 11-27-07 probably not still here
> Woodchuck361
> Jefflee1
> gtstang462002
> Erick
> 
> There are a lot of folks that posted comments in between these names but none said they wanted on the list if you were posting to get on the list please add your name in line where it should be.
> 
> If I left anyone out or got it wrong please post up and let me know.




Definatly waiting patiently and still here. Have a nice pile of everything to try it on...


----------



## JBFab

WooHoooo! I got it!!!!

It's a strange looking animal, - but it looks like it has potential!

I'll be trying it out this weekend or next for sure, (It looks like thunderstorms all weekend here)


----------



## Countrybois

I'd like on the list.


----------



## trailcarnage

I'd like to get in on this. I bought a Fiskar a couple of years ago and fell in love with it. I am interested to see how this compares.

I have about 9 cord to finish for this year.


----------



## Jkebxjunke

I wouldn't mind trying it out... see how it compares to my trusty old chopper ax ( you know the one with the spring loaded dogs that push the wood apart?) been using it for years. 
May I get on the list?
thanks


----------



## Finland

*Comparison*



Jkebxjunke said:


> I wouldn't mind trying it out... see how it compares to my trusty old chopper ax ( you know the one with the spring loaded dogs that push the wood apart?) been using it for years.
> May I get on the list?
> thanks



Already many years ago I had two of those " trusty old chopper axes", one of the Canadian made and the other Chinese maid. Both of them broke up after a short use. The springloaded parts on the both sides flew away because the structure was too week. The use of them was very hard and required a lot of force and stamina. They feeled to be very heavy and they gave strong concussion to my hands. They had the advantage that they did not stick into the wood, but the work was very slow with them. The lenght of the handle was not long enough to get satisfactory kinetic energy to the blade. There was still the chance that the blade could continue it's way to your foot after the strike. I admit that this was a good attempt to make the axe (wedge) safer, but it is still the wadge where most of the energy vanishes to the friction and you cannot fully cont roll the blade during the end of the strike. These axes belong to my axe collection which I nowadays consider as a museum. I do not use these (wedge) axes any more, because my invention, LEVERAXE, is so much better in many ways. Now I can do my firewood safely, effectively and very fast really enjoying all the time without any fear to hurt myself. As I have mentioned before in earlier writings, splitting with the conventional axe is like driving a car without brakes. I also fasten my safety belts before starting to drive a car. Later it might be useless. The LEVERAXE has these "brakes and safetybelts" ready built in to the structure of the AXE so that the blade always stops on the block or slows down it's speed so much that it is fully under your controll during the splitting.
I wonder, where is the pass around LEVERAXE at the moment.
I wish you all the best from Finland.
Regards Heikki
www.vipukirves.fi also www.vipukirves.net


----------



## J.Walker

Finland
Not sure where the Leveraxe is how. I'd sure like to try one, don't need for the sample, where can I buy one?
Everyone here always has good things to say about the Leveraxe.


----------



## ericjeeper

*JBFab*

Does the guy that sent it on to him still have his contact info?
seems he has not posted since middle of June.. Hope all is well with him.. But he needs to move the leveraxe on, Please if you know this guy give him a ring and ask him to kindly pass it on thanks..


----------



## ericjeeper

*bump*

Lets get this tool back and into circulation


----------



## Erick

Eric, looks like he logged on yesterday so he's still around, don't know if he read here or not???


----------



## Erick

The new list looks like this

JBFab - has it now??
24d
Woodchuck361
Jefflee1
gtstang462002
Erick
Countrybois
trailcarnage
Jkebxjunke



J.Walker not sure if you're just buying one outright or if you want on the list.... if you want on the list just copy and paste and add your name.


Eric, what do you think about this...... When someone sends the axe on to the next person they send that persons contact info (name, address, phone number) to you in a PM, that way you will know who has it and a way to contact them just in case.


----------



## ericjeeper

Erick said:


> \
> 
> 
> Eric, what do you think about this...... When someone sends the axe on to the next person they send that persons contact info (name, address, phone number) to you in a PM, that way you will know who has it and a way to contact them just in case.



excellent idea. This tool was entrusted in us to make a loop, be evaluated and returned.
So hopefully soon it will be back in circulation.


----------



## ericjeeper

*Where is the axe?*

Come on guys lets get this axe back into circulation.
Does JBFAB still have it?


----------



## Erick

(singing)

Oh where oh where has the Leveraxe gone
Oh where oh where could it be.

Bumpity Bump


----------



## ericjeeper

*Bump*

Please get this axe back to circulation.
The way I see it someone has basically stolen this axe from us.
Are we going to have to do some detective work to figure out exactly who the heck had it last? Come on guys if you sent it to JBFab get hold of him. At last tally he has it correct?


----------



## woodchuck361

Yea I think jfab was the last to have it and the post he made about getting the axe was his last post on here. 

GeeVee sent it to Jfab and now GeeVee has not been heard from after that either. Anyone know Jfab or GeeVee?


----------



## Jkebxjunke

hmmm is this thing cursed????:jawdrop:


----------



## GeeVee

Apologies once again.

I cut it loose to as mentioned above- Looks like he got it. 

I sent Ericjeeper, and sorry, Erick, forwards of PM's between myself and jb-

Jeeper and I spoke on the phone, nice talking to you. 

I have been busy doing other things than firewood or milling since the spring- Its too hot in Florida and the Ocean and river are in season. Come November I'll be back though.

With my Stihl splitting maul and axe.


----------



## GeeVee

Jeeper is probaly too nice a guy to post the guys info straight up, but I bet you guys could convince him it'd be okay 

GeeVee


----------



## woodchuck361

well what say you Erik? have you gotten in touch with Jfab? Oh Thank you to GeeVee for following up Tonight and for keeping the contact info. Let hope there is a good reason that Jfab did not pass the axe on?


----------



## ericjeeper

*Good news*

I was finally able to contact JBFAB I have spoken with his Aunt, his Uncle and his father before I finally came up with his mobile number. I spoke with him today and he assured me he would send it on to the next guy tomorrow.


----------



## woodchuck361

The case of the missing axe is closed.
Axes the world over can rest easy knowing that Erick & Eric are on the case! 
Oh Thank you Erick & Eric  As they tips there hats and says "no problem all in a days work for an Axe detective".


----------



## ericjeeper

*Well this all came about by two*

different Erics. Erick and Eric. Erick got geevees contact info. I contacted GEEVEE to get JBFABs info.
So hopefully the axe will be in the mail today as promised.

I somehow sort of feel like I am the keeper of the AXE seeing how it was my big mouth that started this ball a rolling.. and honestly it has moved around the country pretty well up until about June. LOL


----------



## Finland

*Re -evaluate*



ericjeeper said:


> different Erics. Erick and Eric. Erick got geevees contact info. I contacted GEEVEE to get JBFABs info.
> So hopefully the axe will be in the mail today as promised.
> 
> I somehow sort of feel like I am the keeper of the AXE seeing how it was my big mouth that started this ball a rolling.. and honestly it has moved around the country pretty well up until about June. LOL



Hi
As you now have noticed, some people have succeeded very well with the LEVERAXE. Maybe they have had enough time to study the instructions BEFORE the splitting. Based to the feedback around the world, the efficiency of the AXE has been very good. It only requires right way to operate. It is really best way to forget totally the old way and approach this new technique with open eyes and mind. I fully understand that it may be difficult to some people to change their habits and try to do something in totally new way.
That is why I also understand the writings on the fist page by ericjeeper.
By looking at the pictures attached to the writing i must say that not even one strike is done correctly. It can be seen in the red marks on the block. Most of the attemps to split the wood has been done in the old ways. That is how you split the wood with the conventional axe. Splitting with the LEVERAXE requires different kind of approach to the whole project.Maybe the simpliest way to say it is. Split the wood like you peal the onion. Start from the outside, split the middle of the block as last split. This way you can peal the block very easily no matter how big it is. The leveraxe has been on the circulation among you nearly one year now.Many people have considered the price of the AXE expensive and maybe that is why evaluated it not so good. I think, the reason for the price is bad exchanse rate of the USD. Most probably one day the situation will change. At the time I live in the world on EUROS. I cannot do much for the price. There is a lot of skepticism of splitting hardwood. Based to the information what I have got for instance from Japan,Wales and from other European countries , so called hardwood does not make any difference. Everything goes. There is a long story about the evaluation of the LEVERAXE in the Wikipedia sites. It is done by ericjeeper based to a few minutes experience.It is difficult to say what to think about the story without insulting anybody, but my opinion as an inventor of the axe, is that there is a lot of rubbish which has nothing to do with the reality. It is like going to the jumbo jet cockpit and after failing to fly it you say, no good. Of course the evaluation is his evaluation, but based to so short experience I think that it is in the wrong place. Some people might even believe it and that way loose the chance to purchase himself this new tool. I hope Mr.ericjeeper to evaluate theAXE again with more time to be able to really get into the system. Meanwhile the writings should be taken away from the Wikipedia sites. So far there has happened NO accident with the LEVERAXE not a single one. Hopefully I haven't offended anybody.
I wish you all interesting testings. Try to think different way.
All the best from Finland.
Regards Heikki from Finland
www.vipukirves.fi


----------



## 24d

ericjeeper said:


> different Erics. Erick and Eric. Erick got geevees contact info. I contacted GEEVEE to get JBFABs info.
> So hopefully the axe will be in the mail today as promised.
> 
> I somehow sort of feel like I am the keeper of the AXE seeing how it was my big mouth that started this ball a rolling.. and honestly it has moved around the country pretty well up until about June. LOL




When it got to 90 degrees, I lost interest in splitting wood hahaha!


----------



## ericjeeper

*Has the next guy on the list recieved the axe?*

JBfab assured me he was sending it out? Has he?


----------



## ericjeeper

*Oh where is this axe?*

Has the next guy in order received this axe?


----------



## 24d

GeeVee - had it last according to posts
JBFab - may have it now??
24d
elaps ???? 1 post and has not signed on since 11-27-07 probably not still here
Woodchuck361
Jefflee1
gtstang462002
Erick

I think I'm after JBFab and no, I don't have it yet, I'll post as soon as I do.


----------



## ericjeeper

*I left a voicemail on*

JBFAB cell phone.
I stated that if he has already mailed the axe to please disregard. If he has not, would he please do so. And I thanked him.


----------



## gtstang462002

Has this ax made its way to the next field tester?


----------



## ericjeeper

*The axe.,..*

IF and I say big if.. IF JBFAB has shipped it on.. someone has it.. IF not JBFAB has the axe.
I finally contacted him weeks ago.. he has not mailed it on..
ANY body live in central Wisconsin that can do some door knocking? I will try to refind his addy..
This really upsets me, that someone can just not ship a 272 dollar axe. Cost me 13 bucks to mail it on to the next guy..


----------



## grandpatractor

Yes, it wasn't cheap to ship from Wisconsin to Florida. Keep up the good work Eric!


----------



## ericjeeper

*Merril Wisconsin*

Are there any members on the site that happen to live close enough to go knock on this guys door?
Until someone receives the axe and says they have received it.. Jbfab still has it.


----------



## cord arrow

Last post 6/13?

This axe is gone. You could contact the locals...but what are you going to say?

I suppose you could say he has something that doesn't belong to him...but it would be difficult to prove...

I'd be cautious asking anyone to go knocking...the possible scenarios far outweigh 300 clams.

Maybe he did forget...probably not.


----------



## woodchuck361

I don't think it would be too hard to prove. There is a record of him getting the axe and a record of the axe being passed around for testing. I think if a call was made to the AXE Police and a complete copy of this thread faxed , The dates are on each post, That would be proof enough to get the axe back.


----------



## woodchuck361

Oh and I think that there should be a min. post of at least 100 before you are on the list and they must be resent posts. Maybe this would help prevent this problem from happening again.


----------



## cord arrow

Perhaps...but good guys are good guys...and bad guys are...well...

Regardless of post count.

If it dies with this guy...so be it. Finland received good input on his product...

He was able to state his case on many fronts...turns out he has a good product that works as advertised when applied to it's intended purpose.

Kudos to ericjeeper, but this does not rest on your shoulders...Finland gleaned far more than even he bargained for...he's been able to toss this product into our arena...see how it's received...plan his marketing attack...all for the price of one axe...

All good...I really wouldn't lose any sleep over this...


----------



## woodchuck361

Eric I will rep ya as soon as it lets me says I have to spread it around more. I defiantly thinks A one year active min. membership is not a bad thing. I don't want to make it too exclusive, but I also don't want the man's Axe to walk off. I do think we have an obligation to try, with in reason, to get the axe back, but I don't think it falls on the shoulders of Ericjeeper. It is up to all of us.


----------



## gtstang462002

I haven't been on here latley due to military manuevers but I do check in when I can. The thing I was worried about was not being available for testing when it is my turn. But that seems to have reached its end.


----------



## ericjeeper

*Don't ever give up man*

Surely it is just an honest mistake that he has not mailed the package on. he just needs a reminder, that is all. If anyone can make contact with JBFab
here is his address.
Jason Bondioli
N790 state road 107
Merrill WI
54452
I told the man from Finland we would pass his axe around and evaluate it.. Then return it.. Or someone would buy it along the route.
I run my own business, and I am known to be a man of my word.And I plan to stay that way.


----------



## cityevader

ericjeeper said:


> Surely it is just an honest mistake that he has not mailed the package on. he just needs a reminder, that is all. If anyone can make contact with JBFab
> here is his address.
> Jason Bondioli
> N790 state road 107
> Merrill WI
> 54452
> I told the man from Finland we would pass his axe around and evaluate it.. Then return it.. Or someone would buy it along the route.
> I run my own business, and I am known to be a man of my word.And I plan to stay that way.



Holy Cow!!!!
If you've got his personal information, I don't think it's responsible of you to be spreading it around. If you wanted anything other than spite to be dished out, you could have contacted him yourself....but to throw it out for the whole world of AS (members or guests alike)?!?!?!?! That's like when you're a kid and asking your bigger neighbor to cause some grief to the school bully.

Mods, can we get this info deleted ASAP?


----------



## ericjeeper

*I have tried..*



cityevader said:


> Holy Cow!!!!
> If you've got his personal information, I don't think it's responsible of you to be spreading it around. If you wanted anything other than spite to be dished out, you could have contacted him yourself....but to throw it out for the whole world of AS (members or guests alike)?!?!?!?! That's like when you're a kid and asking your bigger neighbor to cause some grief to the school bully.
> 
> Mods, can we get this info deleted ASAP?



I am not spiteful.. I have called his cell and his home phone.. Neither have been answered.,
This is a 272 dollar axe.Not a 50 cent gumball.


----------



## danlauer6

More power to you Eric.


----------



## The Lorax

You are acting honourably Eric, If someone had passed around a saw worth that much it would be a big deal, just because there is no moving parts doesn't mean it has no value and that someone can just keep it if they feel like it.


----------



## scotclayshooter

ericjeeper said:


> I am not spiteful.. I have called his cell and his home phone.. Neither have been answered.,
> This is a 272 dollar axe.Not a 50 cent gumball.



+1 and if he aint going to play nice it could be time for some junk mail


----------



## 24d

*Bump*

I guess I'm still next, no I still haven't seen it, I'll post as soon as I do.

Later,


----------



## 24d

*Bump*

. . . . . . . . . . .


24d said:


> I guess I'm still next, no I still haven't seen it, I'll post as soon as I do.
> 
> Later,


----------



## MotorSeven

ericjeeper said:


> I am not spiteful.. I have called his cell and his home phone.. Neither have been answered.,
> This is a 272 dollar axe.Not a 50 cent gumball.



Wow, still no ax? I guess you should have talked to the guys _Mommy_, since he acts like he is 12(keeping others toys). I support the door knock approach.

RD


----------



## slofr8

It's just to hard for some to do the right thing given a chance to get something for nothing.
In any tempting situation I've been in that made me question what the right thing to do was. I'd ask myself, " what would I do if my Dad was watching?" That has served me well through the years, except for the time I turned in $165,000 I found!!!
Not sure even Dad would have considered THAT move! 
Hope the axe turns up and restores our faith in one another.
Dan.


----------



## Metals406

Should someone call the local PD and make sure he isn't deceased? Seriously... Folks die all the time.

Explain to them the situation, and you'd like to see if the fellow is still among the living... And if he is, you'd like the property returned. A check by the local PD just might get that axe in the mail.


----------



## cord arrow

12 pages and finally an intelligent response...


----------



## Jkebxjunke

well there is one fly in that ointment... if he was deceased.. then his number probably would be disconnected and not be going to voice mail....


----------



## Metals406

Jkebxjunke said:


> well there is one fly in that ointment... if he was deceased.. then his number probably would be disconnected and not be going to voice mail....



Not really... I didn't say he was dead... But call the cops and tell them you think the neighbor passed on... They'll show up. Get it?


----------



## cord arrow

This thread has very few that "get it".


----------



## woodchuck361

cord arrow said:


> 12 pages and finally an intelligent response...



didn't you suggest calling the cops a couple posts ago?


----------



## Jkebxjunke

Metals406 said:


> Not really... I didn't say he was dead... But call the cops and tell them you think the neighbor passed on... They'll show up. Get it?



first off... the cops may have caller id... 

second off I was just merely suggesting that if the phone number still work.. its highly unlikely that he is deceased. now here is another thought... maybe a member of armed services and has been deployed?


----------



## Metals406

Jkebxjunke said:


> first off... the cops may have caller id...
> 
> second off I was just merely suggesting that if the phone number still work.. its highly unlikely that he is deceased. now here is another thought... maybe a member of armed services and has been deployed?



I know you couldn't hear my voice inflection... I wasn't trying to be mean or snippy. You may be right, the guy might be in the army, navy, etc.

But I still say someone could call the local sheriff or PD (jurisdictional issues), and let them know the situation. This guy has a 300 dollar tool... Won't answer his phone, and you're concerned something may have happened to him. If they won't do anything about it... I'm sure there are other options.


----------



## MotorSeven

Eric already talked to the guy's family. Nothing has been mentioned about anything happening to him. For whatever reason(and we could speculate ouerselves onto 2009) he hasn't forwarded the axe. 
The bottom line is he is not doing the right thing - period, *no excuses*. So, the options are limited to a face to face. Knock on his door & man to man ask for the axe. A member can do it, or the Police can do it, but i think that is where this thing is at now. 

RD


----------



## 24d

> . . . . . . bump 



24d said:


> I guess I'm still next, no I still haven't seen it, I'll post as soon as I do.
> 
> Later,


----------



## ericjeeper

*someone needs to go politely ask for it back*

Does that sound better?


----------



## gtstang462002

I will the next time that I am up that way. But I don't see that happening for a while....


----------



## ultimate buzz

*legman*

Ericjeeper, I called the Merrill police department today.Their jurisdiction does not extend out to that mailing address. It is covered by the Lincoln County Sheriff.I talked to the dispatcher in Merrill, and she suggested that I set up an appointment to go out to the address in question and they would do a standby while I approached Jason and retrieved the borrowed property.
I will assume you can get me the pertinant information I will need to do this,such as detailed photo and some statement to act as an agent for retrieval.I have watched this post from the beginning and wondered when the leveraxe was going to circulate up in Wisconsin so I could try it.I will make a concerted effort to retrieve the leveraxe, and if,in a sheriffs presence
he doesn't release it, will take it to small claims court if that is what is necessary. ps, cityevader,the leveraxe was loaned out in goodwill,to let the members of arborist site to try out this new concept, with the understanding that it was to be passed on in a timely manner, so other members can formulate an opinion on the tool without having to purchase it outright.That is definately appreciated by me, and I can't fault Eric at all .If 
this inconsiderant person chooses to continually blow off repeated attempts to straighten out this situation,he has every right to take whatever steps are neccessary.Personally, I would have already started the court proceedings.
Eric, count me in for the first $20 for court fees -Bad Santa


----------



## ericjeeper

*There are plenty of photos of the axe in this thread.*

I seriously doubt he is going to have two of em.. LOL
I would just print the whole thread to take with you.. I do appreciate you getting the ball rolling again.
This axe was to be returned to the manufacturer or purchased by someone along the way.


----------



## grandpatractor

ultimate buzz said:


> Ericjeeper, I called the Merrill police department today.Their jurisdiction does not extend out to that mailing address. It is covered by the Lincoln County Sheriff.I talked to the dispatcher in Merrill, and she suggested that I set up an appointment to go out to the address in question and they would do a standby while I approached Jason and retrieved the borrowed property.
> I will assume you can get me the pertinant information I will need to do this,such as detailed photo and some statement to act as an agent for retrieval.I have watched this post from the beginning and wondered when the leveraxe was going to circulate up in Wisconsin so I could try it.I will make a concerted effort to retrieve the leveraxe, and if,in a sheriffs presence
> he doesn't release it, will take it to small claims court if that is what is necessary. ps, cityevader,the leveraxe was loaned out in goodwill,to let the members of arborist site to try out this new concept, with the understanding that it was to be passed on in a timely manner, so other members can formulate an opinion on the tool without having to purchase it outright.That is definately appreciated by me, and I can't fault Eric at all .If
> this inconsiderant person chooses to continually blow off repeated attempts to straighten out this situation,he has every right to take whatever steps are neccessary.Personally, I would have already started the court proceedings.
> Eric, count me in for the first $20 for court fees -Bad Santa


   :agree2:


----------



## Erick

grandpatractor said:


> :agree2:




. .  :agree2:
 Yeup!!


----------



## ultimate buzz

*leveraxe quest*

Ericjeeper, I need some specifics, as far as ownership representation,etc. Wisconsin is the land of the liberal and I need to know exactly what I'm talking about and who I'm representing when I persue this. Before the sheriffs office gets involved,they are going to want to know what right I have to get involved in tracking the whereabouts of the leveraxe. The only two clear pictures of the leveraxe that I found are the first and third of the four pictures in your first post. Would you please PM me when you get a chance? -Ken


----------



## 24d

Ken,
Take my turn in the lineup, I don't need it anyway and I'll just get back in line later when and if it starts back up.

THANKS!


----------



## treeslayer

probably ended up in a dumpster where it belongs.  

I don't like it, and from the original pics, way to many hits for no results.
in pic 4, the wood is upside down. no wonder it takes so much effort. 

IMHO of course.


----------



## gtstang462002

treeslayer said:


> probably ended up in a dumpster where it belongs.
> 
> I don't like it, and from the original pics, way to many hits for no results.
> in pic 4, the wood is upside down. no wonder it takes so much effort.
> 
> IMHO of course.



Have you even tried it? If not I wouldn't deem it a peice of trash. 

IMHO of course.


----------



## treeslayer

gtstang462002 said:


> Have you even tried it? If not I wouldn't deem it a peice of trash.
> 
> IMHO of course.



I don't need to "try it". 
It over-complicates a simple process, for way too much money, for too little return for effort. (judged that by the picture of the wood that had been beat on 10 times in the pics).

if that was all you had, it would suffice. 
But I have all kinds of axes, mauls, sledges and wedges, and a hydraulic splitter. every type of wood splits different, so an overpriced tool ain't for me. I'm sure that price is not what it will sell for though.

once again, IMHO


----------



## gtstang462002

treeslayer said:


> I don't need to "try it".
> It over-complicates a simple process, for way too much money, for too little return for effort. (judged that by the picture of the wood that had been beat on 10 times in the pics).
> 
> if that was all you had, it would suffice.
> But I have all kinds of axes, mauls, sledges and wedges, and a hydraulic splitter. every type of wood splits different, so an overpriced tool ain't for me. I'm sure that price is not what it will sell for though.
> 
> once again, IMHO



Visit the guys website. He clearly isn't having any problems with the tool. The whole reason that this tool was sent out was to get honest opinions on how it performs. It wasn't sent out so that it could end up in a dumpster as you are suggesting is the right place for it. You are one of those people that are so set in your ways that anything new that looks to have potential in it you will do you best to convince the world that it is junk. If I can get through my woodpile 2 times faster by swinging an axe over using my splitter then I will swing an axe. I am willing to give this tool a try since it was supposed to be passed around to do just that. If it works out in my favor I would buy one. If it didn't I would pass it on to the next guy and move on to the next idea that comes along.


----------



## treeslayer

gtstang462002 said:


> You are one of those people that are so set in your ways that anything new that looks to have potential in it you will do you best to convince the world that it is junk.



1) You don't know me. 
2) I have stated twice IMHO.
3) and set in my ways? see #1

jeez, grow up. or better yet, I'll try this.

"Never argue with an idiot - they'll just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience..."


----------



## gtstang462002

treeslayer said:


> 1) You don't know me.
> 2) I have stated twice IMHO.
> 3) and set in my ways? see #1
> 
> jeez, grow up. or better yet, I'll try this.
> 
> "Never argue with an idiot - they'll just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience..."



Read my signature I am done....


----------



## ericjeeper

*If anyone wants to throw it in the dumpster*

They have my blessing.. After they pay the owner the 272 dollars that the axe cost.


----------



## BlueRidgeMark

treeslayer said:


> probably ended up in a dumpster where it belongs.



It doesn't belong in a dumpster for the simple reason that it belongs to some guy in Finland, who has LOANED it out for evaluation. Until the *owner *decides it belongs in a dumpster, it doesn't belong there, piece of junk or whatever it may be.


From the comments in this thread, I don't think enough of the thing to bother trying it on my wood, but I *DO *think a lot of property rights.


----------



## Woodjack

How do I get on the list to try this axe?


----------



## gtstang462002

Woodjack said:


> How do I get on the list to try this axe?



It has to be found first. Apparently someone decided to be dishonest and keep it or throw it in a dumpster....


----------



## Orange Hill

No Christmas miracle huh? 

I don't know why some people on this board are belligerent just for belligerence sake. You piss on someone and get upset when they splash a bit of your own piss back.


----------



## Caz

I'm curious. Of the people that have tried it. How many, if any, have purchased one ?


----------



## stihl sawing

I personally wouldn't give that for one and it don't look like it would work well but the sad part here is that people can't be trusted to pass the thing on where other folks can use it and evaluate it. It went to several people then some creep decided to keep it. Now the original person that got this going has to be responsible for the axe cause of someones irresponsibility. Kinda ruins your faith in humanity. I don't want to try it but will thank all you guys that had it and was responsible enough to pass it on and to the original one who started it.


----------



## November Wolf

I quess if this thing does'nt show up maybe everyone can chip in a couple dollars and help pay for this thing. I have never used this thing but I would be willing to do that just because I have learned alot from this site and its a good way to help out our community members.


----------



## Orange Hill

November Wolf said:


> I quess if this thing does'nt show up maybe everyone can chip in a couple dollars and help pay for this thing. I have never used this thing but I would be willing to do that just because I have learned alot from this site and its a good way to help out our community members.



I was thinking the same thing. If enough people kick in the cost to each would be minimal.


----------



## ericjeeper

*If we kick in anything*

It should be for gas money for someone to go recover the leveraxe. It is basically stolen property. It reads early on in this thread that if you wish to keep it you BUY it.. Not just avoid this forum and keep it..


----------



## boltonranger

*What is the newest information?*

Well, now this is a shame.
We're better than this.
Does anyone have new word on the location of the tester / the missing equipment? 
-br


----------



## gtstang462002

boltonranger said:


> Well, now this is a shame.
> We're better than this.
> Does anyone have new word on the location of the tester / the missing equipment?
> -br



Still lost up around the great lakes somewhere....


----------



## stihl sawing

Well i hate to say it but if nobody has this jerks address, you can probably forget about it. If someone does know his address just go get the thing. Wish i lived nearby i would fetch it for ya, I hate theives.


----------



## gtstang462002

stihl sawing said:


> Well i hate to say it but if nobody has this jerks address, you can probably forget about it. If someone does know his address just go get the thing. Wish i lived nearby i would fetch it for ya, I hate theives.



The address is known. It is back a few pages but it is there.


----------



## stihl sawing

gtstang462002 said:


> The address is known. It is back a few pages but it is there.


No problem then, Someone just needs to go get it politely.


----------



## grandpatractor

It's a little farther than I want to drive with my truck but if it is not back in circulation when it warms up I'm taking the cycle for a ride. Any excuse will do for a ride!!!


----------



## Jkebxjunke

anyone think of maybe sending him a certified letter snail mail? asking for it back?


----------



## stihl sawing

Someone needs to deliver him a knuckle sandwich.lol


----------



## Jkebxjunke

stihl sawing said:


> Someone needs to deliver him a knuckle sandwich.lol



LOL I was trying to be diplomatic... my true feelings? you don't want to know....

ok 
the ax embedded in his skull a little too harsh?


----------



## BaldSawRunner

Bump..... This thing has been absent for what? Six months now?


----------



## Jkebxjunke

maybe we should apply for a bailout....


----------



## GeeVee

Is it still missing?

I hate to be the last.... I will check my PM box for the address. 

I strongly suggest the guy be called out in public now, but will let the guys here that are here all thew time do so. 

I have not lost interest in making firewood and lumber, its just been a busy fall and winter with coaching Football state championships and starting a wrestling program from scratch....


----------



## November Wolf

Any good news?


----------



## bore_pig

Ericjeeper, can you get back to me. I'm only a couple hrs from Merill. Maybe I can help. Sounds like a little road trip.


----------



## brnchbrkr

*Leveraxe - Alive!*

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=90586


ultimate buzz 
Junior Member


Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nekoosa,Wisconsin
Posts: 19 
Successful road trip 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Made a second run up to Merrill, Wisconsin, and with the guidance of a really helpful dispatcher at the Lincoln County Sheriffs office named Christine, returned with a modern day equivalent of the holy grail.The quest - the Leveraxe! I ended up calling this dispatcher four different times, and I really appreciate her patience helping me to find Jason's house.I found the address, and picked up the leveraxe.It went really smooth, no chasing to a buddy's house to pick it up, no "what leveraxe?", just a slightly embarassed guy who gladly passed it on.
I'm going to try the leveraxe the weekend of the 28th,and then pass it on.Ericjeeper, I would really like to pass it on to someone responsible, preferably in person.I have not gone through the old posts on under the Leveraxe heading. Where or how, do you want me to send it/deliver it?


----------



## boltonranger

*Way to Go!*

Well How great is that!
Three cheers for Brnchbrkr!
_ and the fine folks at the PD who helped him._
You've restored honor to us all.
My hats off to you.
-br


----------



## Metals406

brnchbrkr said:


> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=90586
> 
> 
> ultimate buzz
> Junior Member
> 
> 
> Join Date: Dec 2007
> Location: Nekoosa,Wisconsin
> Posts: 19
> Successful road trip
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Made a second run up to Merrill, Wisconsin, and with the guidance of a really helpful dispatcher at the Lincoln County Sheriffs office named Christine, returned with a modern day equivalent of the holy grail.The quest - the Leveraxe! I ended up calling this dispatcher four different times, and I really appreciate her patience helping me to find Jason's house.I found the address, and picked up the leveraxe.It went really smooth, no chasing to a buddy's house to pick it up, no "what leveraxe?", just a slightly embarassed guy who gladly passed it on.
> I'm going to try the leveraxe the weekend of the 28th,and then pass it on.Ericjeeper, I would really like to pass it on to someone responsible, preferably in person.I have not gone through the old posts on under the Leveraxe heading. Where or how, do you want me to send it/deliver it?



Awesome! It sucks that it had to come to someone driving to get it... What was his excuse for keeping it?


----------



## flotek

glad its been retrieved ,very interesting thread on this invention .Im eager to hear more reviews of its advantages and i like new ideas that are on the edge of technology for sure . i must be missing something over the coarse of all these pages but if the ax is about 300 bones ..seems i could get a running used small gas splitter off craiglist for another hundred bucks or so and press through knotted giant green oak rounds/stumps with my pinky all day long without even breaking a sweat or setting my beer down . what about the guy with a indoor wood furnace ? im not talking about making soft pine kindling into little 3 inchs splits shooting off the side ,i mean the guy who needs his splits beefy and 25 inches long made of twisted rock hard black oak ,osage and hickory for those frigid cold nights .I guess the real question is could it be worth 12 times the cost of a decent fiberglass ax/maul ?


----------



## brnchbrkr

boltonranger said:


> Well How great is that!
> Three cheers for Brnchbrkr!
> _ and the fine folks at the PD who helped him._
> You've restored honor to us all.
> My hats off to you.
> -br



Ultimate Buzz did all the work.

I just noticed he posted in a new thread and just tied it into the Leveraxe thread.

Again, the Axe is in Ultimate Buzz's hands. 

http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=90586


----------



## nikocker

*Leveraxe is going to the WI/MN GTG*

Ultimate buzz just turned the leveraxe over to me last night and I'll be taking it to the WI/MN GTG.

Al


----------



## ultimate buzz

*testing*

I tried the leveraxe out Sunday afternoon on about a face cord and a half of relatively dried oak rounds. It definately works better on shorter lengths in the 14 to 16 inch range, verses the 18 to 20 inch lengths I normally split by hand. It also seems more effective on bigger diameter rounds, the way the leveraxe "bites" and throws. If you work the rounds from left to right,as in the previous instructions, it is very effective,and really sails the pieces that break off, and you absolutey have to keep the area to the left of where you are splitting clear.On a good hit, they really fly! By releasing, or for a better description ,lessening the grip on the handle as you come into contact with the round, I noticed that my fingers didn't "lock" up after a while, like they do when I'm swinging my 8 pound splitting maul for an extended time. More than a few of the rounds, for a better term, splintered into "slivers" and did not break free.One of the bad features I repeatedly noticed is that with the leveraxe, you do not have the follow through into the rounds that you do with a conventional splitting maul, in other words,you do not get the continual driving force that separates the pieces.The leveraxe "bites" or nips off pieces, some times 1/2 way down the round and then breaks them out by the lever action.You do not need a lot of physical force with the leveraxe, and I'm quite sure that in specific wood it is phenominal,but for $270 + dollars,I couldn't honestly justify buying one Thank you, Leveraxe for providing the opportunity to try out a new concept. -ken


----------



## MotorSeven

Hey Buzz, This thread was fermenting until you stepped in, thanks for "taking care of business"! 

RD


----------



## Adkpk

*unbelievable*

 Glad to hear it's on its way again.


----------



## grandpatractor

*Leveraxe needs mending!*

The wooden handle has a split in it about half way up. :bang:It happened at the GTG and it will need a little repair before I send it on to the next guy. 
I'm not sure who is next on the list, but we'll have to figure it out in the next few days so we can send it on too the next fella or GTG!


----------



## ultimate buzz

*next on list*

Before Jfab became permanently attached to the leveraxe, there was a running list of people waiting to try it. It currently is on page 9 of this thread.
Now it just happens that the next person on the list after Jfab, is 24D, is from North Carolina, where they are having a get -together on the 18th of April. Would Ericjeeper be okay with you sending it down to him, or someone else that is going to be at this event?
By the way, did any of the other members attending your get-together get a chance to try out the leveraxe before handle got tweaked?-ken


----------



## ericjeeper

*That thing has a wooden handle?*

Heck I thought it was some sort of composite material..
I do not care who we send it to. Providing he is a regular current poster.And he has been here long enough to prove he has enough character to make sure it gets sent on.
About the handle. I will contact the owner and see what it will take to get a replacement handle lined up and what all it takes to install it.. whoever has it now.. Does it look to be held in place with a wedge?or epoxied in?


----------



## grandpatractor

ericjeeper said:


> Heck I thought it was some sort of composite material..
> I do not care who we send it to. Providing he is a regular current poster.And he has been here long enough to prove he has enough character to make sure it gets sent on.
> About the handle. I will contact the owner and see what it will take to get a replacement handle lined up and what all it takes to install it.. whoever has it now.. Does it look to be held in place with a wedge?or epoxied in?



I did a temporary repair. It's on its way to 24d right now. He should be bringing it to the GTG.


----------



## Tree Pig

can you still get on this list? Be nice to get this around the NE if it hasnt been here yet?


----------



## ericjeeper

*The owner of the axe is shipping a new handle*

It will be sent to Larry in NC. Hope that is ok with you Larry. LOL 
The owner/designer was nice enough to warranty the handle.
Hey guys at the NC GTG, can you buck some firewood a little on the short side. To about 14 inches and give this axe a fair testing on some shorter woods.
It has been pointed out to me from the designer that we might be pushing the limits with our 20 inch long wood.
Hopefully the handle will arrive before the GTG and Larry can get it replaced.
Oh and to Stihl O matic
Nothing personal here, But I would prefer you get a little seat time here at AS before we ship you the axe. seeing how the last newbie bogarted the axe and someone had to go to his house and personally retrieve it. It is nothing personal.Just something a few of us decided was maybe a good thing to make sure the guys are good for their word.


----------



## Tree Pig

ericjeeper said:


> It will be sent to Larry in NC. Hope that is ok with you Larry. LOL
> The owner/designer was nice enough to warranty the handle.
> Hey guys at the NC GTG, can you buck some firewood a little on the short side. To about 14 inches and give this axe a fair testing on some shorter woods.
> It has been pointed out to me from the designer that we might be pushing the limits with our 20 inch long wood.
> Hopefully the handle will arrive before the GTG and Larry can get it replaced.
> Oh and to Stihl O matic
> Nothing personal here, But I would prefer you get a little seat time here at AS before we ship you the axe. seeing how the last newbie bogarted the axe and someone had to go to his house and personally retrieve it. It is nothing personal.Just something a few of us decided was maybe a good thing to make sure the guys are good for their word.



I understand 100%.


----------



## ericjeeper

What is the current status of the axe?
Larry did you get it fixed before the GTG? If so how was it received there amongst the guys?


----------



## Erick

WOW... and the dead hath risen. 


I haven't checked in here in a few months figuring it was still MIA, 

*Well done Buzz. *

I'd still like to give this thing a swing.... I don't want to cut in line but if someone could figure out how to get it here by Memorial weekend I'll bring that thing full circle and take it back home to Eric's GTG for everyone to try out.


----------



## gtstang462002

Erick said:


> WOW... and the dead hath risen.
> 
> 
> I haven't checked in here in a few months figuring it was still MIA,
> 
> *Well done Buzz. *
> 
> I'd still like to give this thing a swing.... I don't want to cut in line but if someone could figure out how to get it here by Memorial weekend I'll bring that thing full circle and take it back home to Eric's GTG for everyone to try out.



I would like to remain on the list, though I will probably have to relinquish my spot as I am laid up in a military hospital with a broken leg right now. Once I get out of here I still have a month worth of school left to finish up with my new MOS. I am hoping to be back home before summer is over to get my baby's out of the shed and start making some wood chips and sawdust for the winter.


----------



## ericjeeper

*any idea of its current location?*

Did it make it to Erick?


----------



## Erick

Haven't see'd nor hear'd a thing. :Eye::Eye:


----------



## Finland

*Where is it?*

Who has confiscated the LEVERAXE? I shipped two spare shafts ages ago. Check my new videos concerning ELM. 
I do not consider it very difficult to split. Oak is also easy.
Best Regards
Heikki
http://www.vipukirves.fi
PS. You can check the prices in USD http://www.easyconverter.net


----------



## Erick

*Bump!!*

:Eye::Eye:


----------



## Finland

*It is still missing !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!*



Stihl-O-Matic said:


> I understand 100%.


What is going on in USA in these days?
I sent the spare shafts on the 16 th. of April 2009. The LEVERAXE seems to be vanished again!
My suggestion is: If the AXE will be found again, it should be only one week on test use per person. This way more than a few persons could use it in a year. I think this humble request should not be too demanding to be fulfilled. 
Best Regards
Heikki 
http://www.vipukirves.fi


----------



## gtstang462002

Finland said:


> What is going on in USA in these days?
> I sent the spare shafts on the 16 th. of April 2009. The LEVERAXE seems to be vanished again!
> My suggestion is: If the AXE will be found again, it should be only one week on test use per person. This way more than a few persons could use it in a year. I think this humble request should not be too demanding to be fulfilled.
> Best Regards
> Heikki
> http://www.vipukirves.fi



I agree that sounds like a good strategy. If you are not in a position to use it right away respectfully pass on it so that it can continue to get tried out.


----------



## FJH

Finlander You need to give us an idea of the cost of this unit!I live in Canada 
I see how it works I split douglas fir with my spliting mall the exsact same way but have to manipulate the mall to do what your axe does automaticly.
It looks to be a good inovation and should and does work well congrats on the idea!


----------



## blis

FJH said:


> Finlander You need to give us an idea of the cost of this unit!I live in Canada
> I see how it works I split douglas fir with my spliting mall the exsact same way but have to manipulate the mall to do what your axe does automaticly.
> It looks to be a good inovation and should and does work well congrats on the idea!



The price is 199e according to his site, so that would make it 320 canadians or 280 dollars... shipping would be on top of that i assume...


----------



## ericjeeper

*I have the axe*

I have been waiting on the owner to post his wishes. I see he wishes for it to be shipped on to the next potential user.
So I will try to figure out who is next on the list.


----------



## gtstang462002

I don't know where I stand on the list but I am going to be home in about 3 weeks so I hope that I would still be considered. 

Thanks,
Bobby


----------



## Erick

Still here... still waiting... still got lots of wood to split. 

Eric maybe you should hang on to it until Levi's GTG on the 18th so we can all give it a swing???


----------



## 24d

Erick said:


> Still here... still waiting... still got lots of wood to split.
> 
> Eric maybe you should hang on to it until Levi's GTG on the 18th so we can all give it a swing???



After that I think it should be sent back to it's home, we know all we ever will @ this point. Just my .02


----------



## ericjeeper

*I honestly feel it is way overpriced*

It is approximately 1/3 the price of a gasoline powered hydraulic splitter.. I am almost positive that this axe would sell, if the price was not so ridiculous.
For Gods sake it is a wooden handle with a piece of fancy steel attached to it.
Erick I will not be attending the GTG at Levis. I would like to, but sometimes my job actually requires me to participate.


----------



## stihl sawing

ericjeeper said:


> It is approximately 1/3 the price of a gasoline powered hydraulic splitter.. I am almost positive that this axe would sell, if the price was not so ridiculous. For Gods sake it is a wooden handle with a piece of fancy steel attached to it. Erick I will not be attending the GTG at Levis. I would like to, but sometimes my job actually requires me to participate.


My thoughts exactly, I'll keep my 35 dollar monster maul. How well did it split oak rounds cause the video shows it busting wood a hatchet would split. Also the pieces were really small. we would use that for kindling.


----------



## Finland

*I honestly feel it is approprietly priced*



ericjeeper said:


> It is approximately 1/3 the price of a gasoline powered hydraulic splitter.. I am almost positive that this axe would sell, if the price was not so ridiculous.
> For Gods sake it is a wooden handle with a piece of fancy steel attached to it.
> Erick I will not be attending the GTG at Levis. I would like to, but sometimes my job actually requires me to participate.



I hope the DOLLAR to become stronger some day, then the price would not be so ridiculous to you. The leveraxe is made based to EURO. I cannot effect to the rate of exchange.
Look at my videos number 16,17,18 and 19. There I explain why I make so small kindlings, there I also show, how to make bigger blocks. There I split some ELM, too.
If you want to make bigger size blocks you just skip over every other strike. The high price from your point of view 
does not make the LEVERAXE bad. You can remain in your old and reliable tool, you have the privilege to do that. I am only offering you a new, SAFE option to do the firewood
FAST and with GREAT JOY. 
When talking about the gasoline powered hydraulic splitter, why to use external energy to get energy if you can use your own "fat energy". You will get yourself in good physical condition in no time.
By the way, I am 69 years old in those videos.
Kind regards from Finland.
Heikki http://www.vipukirves.fi


----------



## gtstang462002

Finland said:


> I hope the DOLLAR to become stronger some day, then the price would not be so ridiculous to you. The leveraxe is made based to EURO. I cannot effect to the rate of exchange.
> Look at my videos number 16,17,18 and 19. There I explain why I make so small kindlings, there I also show, how to make bigger blocks. There I split some ELM, too.
> If you want to make bigger size blocks you just skip over every other strike. The high price from your point of view
> does not make the LEVERAXE bad. You can remain in your old and reliable tool, you have the privilege to do that. I am only offering you a new, SAFE option to do the firewood
> FAST and with GREAT JOY.
> When talking about the gasoline powered hydraulic splitter, why to use external energy to get energy if you can use your own "fat energy". You will get yourself in good physical condition in no time.
> By the way, I am 69 years old in those videos.
> Kind regards from Finland.
> Heikki http://www.vipukirves.fi



Here is the thing though. Even if the exchange rate was 1 to 1 that would make this axe $190.00 plus shipping. Compared to the $35 splitting maul that would be sitting on the shelf next to it that is a lot of money for the same about of material (axe head, handle). While I appreciate good engineering there does come a point in time where you have to ask yourself if that engineering is worth that much money. Please do not take this statement as devaluing your product as I have never gotten my swing with the one that was supposed to be being passed around. I will say this, as a mechanic of 14 years I have bought some overpriced tools just for the simplicity that they provide in the long run, however of those overpriced tools I always had the option to return them if they did not work out as anticipated.


----------



## Haywire Haywood

24d said:


> After that I think it should be sent back to it's home, we know all we ever will @ this point. Just my .02



:agree2:


----------



## 7sleeper

gtstang462002 said:


> Here is the thing though. Even if the exchange rate was 1 to 1 that would make this axe $190.00 plus shipping. Compared to the $35 splitting maul that would be sitting on the shelf next to it that is a lot of money for the same about of material (axe head, handle). While I appreciate good engineering there does come a point in time where you have to ask yourself if that engineering is worth that much money. Please do not take this statement as devaluing your product as I have never gotten my swing with the one that was supposed to be being passed around. I will say this, as a mechanic of 14 years I have bought some overpriced tools just for the simplicity that they provide in the long run, however of those overpriced tools I always had the option to return them if they did not work out as anticipated.



Hey many people buy Ferrari, Lamborghini etc. (like to many chainsaws ) so price is not a criteria!

7


----------



## Finland

*Where is it ?*



Finland said:


> What is going on in USA in these days?
> I sent the spare shafts on the 16 th. of April 2009. The LEVERAXE seems to be vanished again!
> My suggestion is: If the AXE will be found again, it should be only one week on test use per person. This way more than a few persons could use it in a year. I think this humble request should not be too demanding to be fulfilled.
> Best Regards
> Heikki
> http://www.vipukirves.fi



It is still missing


----------



## ericjeeper

*It is safe and sound.*

Nope it is not missing.. It is sitting in my garage and will be passed around at the GTG down at Ericks. Then it can start its rounds again from there. In the box are 3 handles and the head.


----------



## Haywire Haywood

When are we going to close this episode and return it?

Ian


----------



## Finland

*"ridiculous price"*



ericjeeper said:


> It is approximately 1/3 the price of a gasoline powered hydraulic splitter.. I am almost positive that this axe would sell, if the price was not so ridiculous.
> For Gods sake it is a wooden handle with a piece of fancy steel attached to it.
> Erick I will not be attending the GTG at Levis. I would like to, but sometimes my job actually requires me to participate.


Do not blame me about the price. I cannot effect to the value of the USD. That is very much up to the political decisions. Next I will use your own way to express thoughts: "For Gods sake why to buy ferrari? It is only a car with four wheels"!
Thank you anyway for your good help in spreading word about this invention. There are many people among the Americans who have the ability to pick up the real information and the advantages of the Leveraxe, so they have purchased the AXE. I have got excellent feed back from them. Thank you all.
Best Regards
Heikki
http://www.vipukirves.fi


----------



## Finland

*Don't worry*



Haywire Haywood said:


> When are we going to close this episode and return it?
> 
> Ian



I am sure that we both have enough space on these pages to express ourselves and "our" INVENTIONS. There would be better value in the writings if you have own experience about the subject of which you write about.I wonder what the others think about your episodes?
My motto is to make wood splitting safer, more effective and fun to do. You seem to write a lot on these sites. What is your motto? I will quote a sentence which I found earlier on these pages:"Never argue with an idiot, they'll just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience".
I wish you enjoyable moments in your writing hobby. No hard feelings.
Regards
Heikki
http://www.vipukirves.fi


----------



## Haywire Haywood

Huh? You act as if I insulted you. I was just suggesting that we've had your property for over a year and it's time to send it back. Enough people have used it for all of us to get an idea of it's worth.

Ian


----------



## Coldfront

I'm sure it is a great invention but for that price I can't see anyone here buying it. I bought a 6 lb maul and a fiberglass handle for $40 and it works just fine. I also think most people who burn wood here are doing it to save money, I have to admit I am cheap and watch every penny now days. If a person can afford to spend over $200 for a splitting maul they can probably be happy to just burn propane for heat.


----------



## Finland

*Some day*



Coldfront said:


> I'm sure it is a great invention but for that price I can't see anyone here buying it. I bought a 6 lb maul and a fiberglass handle for $40 and it works just fine. I also think most people who burn wood here are doing it to save money, I have to admit I am cheap and watch every penny now days. If a person can afford to spend over $200 for a splitting maul they can probably be happy to just burn propane for heat.



Hi
I am very sorry for this global slack of which we all suffer in these days in a way or an other. It does not mean that we should give up, on the contrary, we must struggle more than ever before to get better future some day. Meanwhile that day comes there is a good change to become acquainted for instance to new inventions, when ever it is possible. Later, when the economy is better, you can consider again.... This opportunity does no cost you much. One day the exchange rate can be totally opposite.
Today's situation cannot last forever.
Attached is one of the feedbacks what I have got from one of my American customers.

Aihe: Vipukirves Christmas Present
Päiväys: 31.12.2008 14:17
Lähettäjä: Gary X [[email protected]]
Kopio: Gary X [[email protected]]

Dear Sir:

I saw videos showing your axe in operation on the Internet. I was so 
impressed by the videos that I hinted to my family to get me one for 
Christmas. My daughter, Kelly X, of St. Joseph, Illinois, USA, 
did purchase the axe for me.

I was THRILLED to open the box on Christmas morning. The quality, 
appearance, and construction of the tool was just what I had hoped it 
would be. I was also impressed that my daughter would have gone to 
the expense to have purchased the item and paid for the shipping to 
get it here. Obviously, it is something of an extravagance, but I do 
enjoy dealing with firewood. At my age (63) I guess the axe could be 
thought of as an investment as a piece of "exercise equipment" as I do 
think there is a health benefit from doing all the tasks related to 
getting wood cut, moved, split, burned, and so on.

I was a little worried as to whether the axe would perform in a way 
that would justify the cost. I had read a semi-scientific evaluation 
of the axe at this internet location:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=46925&page=8
The article is not entirely favorable to the Vipukirves and says 
that the axe would have problems with the hard varieties of wood we 
have in this part of the world. I was particularly concerned as I 
split a great deal of Red Oak. I read this article AFTER I had hinted 
to my family that I would like this axe for a gift.

So, when I went out to split about 15 rounds of recently cut red oak, 
averaging around 25 to 30 inches in diameter and about 16 inches in 
length (basically trunk wood) I wondered how the axe would work. I 
hoped that I would not have added an extremely expensive, but little 
used tool to my garage.

The axe performed beyond my expectations!! I could not have been more 
wrong in doubting whether this tool would work for me. With my family 
watching through the dining room window, I blasted through a sizeable 
stack of red oak in short order!! They were impressed with the amount 
of power the old guy (me) could generate and were genuinely impressed 
with the tangled knot wood i was splitting.

As I had watched a lot of video of the axe in action, I felt I knew a 
little about the technique to be used. It did not take long for me to 
feel as though I was using the axe in the intended manner. I produced 
decent sized spits (for my woodstove) and did so very quickly. I used 
a chopping block with a tire as you show in your videos. I would say 
I can swing an axe with considerable force (I can hit a golf ball over 
300 yards) so I may not be a typical user. However, I did split 
through knots in the red oak. I was extremely impressed with the 
amount of splitting force being brought to bear on the knots I was 
going through. Again, I was quite impressed and produced much better 
results than I thought I would get after having read the Arborsite 
article.

As with any man powered device used in attacking a tough round of oak, 
judgement must be used. There are techniques learned over the years 
in splitting wood and those must be applied with the Vipukirves, too, 
or you will waste a lot of energy. Techniques and knowledge of how 
splitting wood works (at least with a non hydraulic man powered 
device) are essential.

But, if you do know a thing or two about splitting wood, this 
Vipukirves is a fabulous tool. No matter what the cost, if you like 
making firewood, and you consider it a fun and challenging activity, 
this is the best item you can buy.


I BELIEVE YOU HAVE A WONDERFUL PRODUCT AND I LOOK 
FORWARD TO USING IT FOR YEARS TO COME.

Sincerely,

Gary X

(axe was purchased by my daughter, Kelly X)

Thank you for reading all this.
Best regards
Heikki, the inventor
http://www.vipukirves.fi


----------



## Finland

*Enough people ????*



Haywire Haywood said:


> Huh? You act as if I insulted you. I was just suggesting that we've had your property for over a year and it's time to send it back. Enough people have used it for all of us to get an idea of it's worth.
> 
> Ian



There are 307.573.942 people in United States at the moment. I do not agree with you that enough people have tested it. Is there any chance to get your evaluation about the Leveraxe based to your own experiment?
Check next link.
http://www.census.gov/main/www/popclock.html
Best regards
Heikki


----------



## Nonprophet

I think it's great that the owner/inventor had enough confidence in his product to ship it around to people to try it.

I'll echo what others have said--it's way overpriced.

No, I haven't tried it, and I'm not doubting that it's a fine tool--but it's still way overpriced.

Doesn't really matter what the exchange rate is, the bottom line is that my Fiskars Super splitting axe (with LIFETIME guarantee) cost me $45 US including shipping and it does a GREAT job on ALL types of wood!

There's also the Helko Vario (http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11718) and the Gransfors Bruks (http://www.gransfors.us/axes.html) but even those fine, high-quality tools come in at under $100 ea., so it becomes EXTREMELY difficult to justify the Leveraxe that comes in 6 times the cost of my Fiskars and 4 times the cost of the Helko's and Gransfors.......

In short, if you're ever going to be more than a niche market, you need to seriously re-evaluate your pricing structure.

NP


----------



## Haywire Haywood

Finland said:


> There are 307.573.942 people in United States at the moment. I do not agree with you that enough people have tested it. Is there any chance to get your evaluation about the Leveraxe based to your own experiment?
> Check next link.
> http://www.census.gov/main/www/popclock.html
> Best regards
> Heikki



If Arboristsite is your outlet to 307 million American people, I think it's time you sponsored the site, and in a big way.

I am not interested in trying your axe. I have read enough of the testimonials of people here to know that it has difficulty with twisted American hardwoods. Besides, I have a home built hydraulic splitter.

Ian

Edit... on second thought, put me on the list. When I get it, I'll ship it back where it came from and be happy to pay the postage.


----------



## stihl sawing

Nonprophet said:


> I think it's great that the owner/inventor had enough confidence in his product to ship it around to people to try it.
> 
> I'll echo what others have said--it's way overpriced.
> 
> No, I haven't tried it, and I'm not doubting that it's a fine tool--but it's still way overpriced.
> 
> Doesn't really matter what the exchange rate is, the bottom line is that my Fiskars Super splitting axe (with LIFETIME guarantee) cost me $45 US including shipping and it does a GREAT job on ALL types of wood!
> 
> There's also the Helko Vario (http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11718) and the Gransfors Bruks (http://www.gransfors.us/axes.html) but even those fine, high-quality tools come in at under $100 ea., so it becomes EXTREMELY difficult to justify the Leveraxe that comes in 6 times the cost of my Fiskars and 4 times the cost of the Helko's and Gransfors.......
> 
> In short, if you're ever going to be more than a niche market, you need to seriously re-evaluate your pricing structure.
> 
> NP


Great post on this subject. the inventor needs to read all these post and re-evaluate his pricing. You may sell a few here and might even get rich off the few you sell. But ripping the people off for that amount of money for an axe is rediculous.


----------



## Finland

*Chance to the others*



Haywire Haywood said:


> If Arboristsite is your outlet to 307 million American people, I think it's time you sponsored the site, and in a big way.
> 
> I am not interested in trying your axe. I have read enough of the testimonials of people here to know that it has difficulty with twisted American hardwoods. Besides, I have a home built hydraulic splitter.
> 
> Ian
> 
> Edit... on second thought, put me on the list. When I get it, I'll ship it back where it came from and be happy to pay the postage.



Thank you very much for your attitude towards the Leveraxe. You have all the right to have your opinion. Let us give a possibility to the others to make their own personal opinion, as well.
Important is that people get to know about this tool, even if they cannot afford to purchase it now. There will be life "tomorrow", too. Then the situation can be different and the price lower in your point of view.
Best regards
Heikki
http://www.vipukirves.fi


----------



## stihl sawing

Finland said:


> Thank you very much for your attitude towards the Leveraxe. You have all the right to have your opinion. Let us give a possibility to the others to make their own personal opinion, as well.
> Important is that people get to know about this tool, even if they cannot afford to purchase it now. There will be life "tomorrow", too. Then the situation can be different and the price lower in your point of view.
> Best regards
> Heikki
> http://www.vipukirves.fi


the economy is bad but even if it turns around, You're product is way overpriced. The other companies that sell fine axes and mauls are not price gouging the public. The economy has nothing to do with the price of you're axe.


----------



## Nonprophet

Finland said:


> Thank you very much for your attitude towards the Leveraxe. You have all the right to have your opinion. Let us give a possibility to the others to make their own personal opinion, as well.
> Important is that people get to know about this tool, even if they cannot afford to purchase it now. There will be life "tomorrow", too. Then the situation can be different and the price lower in your point of view.
> Best regards
> Heikki
> http://www.vipukirves.fi



Let me just ask you straight up--what is your cost per unit for the Leveraxe?? Where are they manufactured?

NP


----------



## Austin1

The high price is because it is made in Europe Not China, The Market is just so differnt there. A bottle of Coke cost's 3 Euros in the Frankfort air port. A bottle of JD costs 26.00 Euros 750ml or 26oz in Pairis and this is at the biggest Grocery store not a open all night liqurer store. Same goes for Moscow and St Pete a cup of Coffee will set you back $3.00 US or Canadian. I wondered in to a Stihl Shop in Cyprus on my Honeymoon and the Price of a 290 was the same as a 460 will go for here at home!Also less demand for the Product not that many Europeans need a Chainsaw. Kind of like where I live few people heat with wood so the Price of a cord of Pine is $500.00 or $480.00 US dollars.But a Fire wood permit cost's $5.00 for me. Also hunting licenses seem to have gone way up but you know how much it costs to hunt deer in Germany? Lets say my 32.00 dollar license seems cheap I remember when a duck license cost $2.50 and tags for big game were $10.00


----------



## Austin1

Nonprophet said:


> Let me just ask you straight up--what is your cost per unit for the Leveraxe?? Where are they manufactured?
> 
> NP


I would bet it cost's them at least $85.00 euro to make that Axe but I thought they still use the Kroner don't think I spelled that right lol. I still have a bunch of Swedish Krona's at home. Saving them to buy a Jred lol!!!
I will send a PM to the SAW Troll and see if he will post a response to the Scandinavian prices in the Firewood forum?


----------



## SawTroll

Finland said:


> Who has confiscated the LEVERAXE? I shipped two spare shafts ages ago. Check my new videos concerning ELM.
> I do not consider it very difficult to split. Oak is also easy.
> Best Regards
> Heikki
> http://www.vipukirves.fi
> PS. You can check the prices in USD http://www.easyconverter.net



I notised that you cut the wood into really small pieces - does it work equally well for more "normal" splitting, starting with deviding the piece of wood in two about equally large pieces?


----------



## SawTroll

ericjeeper said:


> It is approximately 1/3 the price of a gasoline powered hydraulic splitter.. I am almost positive that this axe would sell, if the price was not so ridiculous.
> For Gods sake it is a wooden handle with a piece of fancy steel attached to it.
> Erick I will not be attending the GTG at Levis. I would like to, but sometimes my job actually requires me to participate.



I am sure the price would be much lower if it was marketed in the US - most other stuff is! 

Husky chainsaws cost 100%+ more here than in the US - Sweden is about the same, and I guess Finland is as well........

About he same goes for lots of other stuff as well.


----------



## Finland

*Additional information*



SawTroll said:


> I notised that you cut the wood into really small pieces - does it work equally well for more "normal" splitting, starting with deviding the piece of wood in two about equally large pieces?



I fully understand your question and the reason why you asked that.
When splitting with the conventional axe (wedge) you must be very careful because there is a big chance that the axe blade will continue it's way through the block or slip out of it to your foot. That is why it is reasonable to hit into the middle of the block.
When using the Leveraxe you do not have to worry about the possible accident, because the axe blade will stop on the block or anyway slow down the speed so, that you can fully control it. 
This gives you new way to split the wood. You can use the weak parts of the wood so that you can hit to a very side of the block. Of course the form of the split may look different but I doubt that the fireplace should complain about it.
During this four years existence of the Leveraxe there has happened NO ACCIDENT.
Attached are four links to my Finnish web sites. Here are some videos, which cannot be seen yet in the English pages.
I hope these to be satisfactory answer to your question.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLs1YI68Z6k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkI0Shz9Hf0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XIZKNBnnNM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PfWIjF8HXDE
Best regards
Heikki:computer:


----------



## Austin1

SawTroll said:


> I am sure the price would be much lower if it was marketed in the US - most other stuff is!
> 
> Husky chainsaws cost 100%+ more here than in the US - Sweden is about the same, and I guess Finland is as well........
> 
> About he same goes for lots of other stuff as well.


Yep everything is so expensive even compared to here and here things cost more than in the U.S.


----------



## blis

SawTroll said:


> I am sure the price would be much lower if it was marketed in the US - most other stuff is!
> 
> Husky chainsaws cost 100%+ more here than in the US - Sweden is about the same, and I guess Finland is as well........
> 
> About he same goes for lots of other stuff as well.



Last time i checked on the 346xp the price was around 800e (aka 1 170dollars or 1 250 canucks) and on your side of pond it costs like, 400?


----------



## SawyerSatan

i like my leveraxe. 
it works as advertised and makes splitting much easier
i think its worth the money


----------



## Iron Mike

I'm glad you are happy with your purchase...but you have the worst user name on this site.


----------



## Nonprophet

If the Leveraxe was REASONABLY priced, say $80-$100 I'd think about it, but at $270 it's just totally unrealistic IMHO......

Maybe some day the owner will come to his senses and realize that making $50 on 100,000 axes is *way* better than making $200 on 5,000 axes.......

NP


----------



## Mike PA

It's hard to believe that costs that much. It looks like it works well enough, but I can make my fiskars super splitting ax have a similar action. Obviously the lever ax creates that type of action better... I could add a weight to the side of my fiskars and see what happens. May have to try that. I know there is no way I could spend that much cash on an ax, no matter how well it works, as I don't see it being able to split the tougher and stringy pieces well.


----------



## Nonprophet

Finland said:


> Here is something new to see and talk about.
> 
> www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iq3hy-NUxQ
> 
> Best Regards
> 
> Heikki
> 
> http://www.vipukirves.fi
> 
> :computer:



You're very good at self-promotion Heikki, I'll give you that. That being said, not only is a chopping block like that impractical, it really proves nothing IMHO about the superiority of the Leveraxe over other splitting tools.

I have no doubt that I can split the same amount of wood in the same amount of time using my $45 Fiskars Super splitting axe vs your $275 Leveraxe. Would you care to make a wager to that effect? :greenchainsaw:

NP


----------



## Finland

*Doupt*



Nonprophet said:


> You're very good at self-promotion Heikki, I'll give you that. That being said, not only is a chopping block like that impractical, it really proves nothing IMHO about the superiority of the Leveraxe over other splitting tools.
> 
> I have no doubt that I can split the same amount of wood in the same amount of time using my $45 Fiskars Super splitting axe vs your $275 Leveraxe. Would you care to make a wager to that effect? :greenchainsaw:
> 
> NP



I do not doubt it either, you see, the video was taken from the very firs testing occasion. There was no attempt to make any kind of record. The purpose was only to test the very first ,long,chopper block. Sometimes when, or if you get some new ideas it is good to try them in practice. This is one way to possibly find new methods to make your life easier. I do not want to be that selfish that I would keep all my ideas only in my own use. Maybe all the ideas are not worth wile for further use, but sometimes there may come some good ones, as well. Many of the readers are using the tyre in their chopper block. Maybe they or anyway some of them have got the idea from my websites. I have used the tyre since 1989. Of course there is a big chance to break the shaft if using a conventional axe, because there will be a split under the shaft sooner or later, which will cause a damage to it. The blade of the LEVERAXE will remain ON THE BLOCK so that it will not even touch the block. You should test your skills and stamina first ,before you challenge anybody to split the wood. Maybe some day we will see some videos about your inventions. Maybe you will show us how you split the wood.
What comes to the superiority, as you have possibly read earlier, I have almost all the axes mentioned on these pages. I also have 60 years experience in splitting firewood. I do not touch them any more because they are dangerous and hard to work with. 
Waiting for your videos.
Best regards
Heikkihttp://www.vipukirves.fi


----------



## Haywire Haywood

They're not dangerous, seems like after 60 years of splitting firewood, you would be able to hit what you were aiming at instead of smashing toes.

Why were you splitting those little twigs anyway? Needing some kindling? :greenchainsaw:

Ian


----------



## Finland

*Why*



Haywire Haywood said:


> They're not dangerous, seems like after 60 years of splitting firewood, you would be able to hit what you were aiming at instead of smashing toes.
> 
> Why were you splitting those little twigs anyway? Needing some kindling? :greenchainsaw:
> 
> Ian



My English is probably not good enough to be able to make you understand what happens when you hit the wood with an axe.
Aiming is not any problem. It is the easiest part of the splitting. Everything important starts at the moment when the axe blade touches the block. When using the conventional axe (wedge), you never know how far the axe blade will go. There are NO SAFETY ELEMENTS. It can stop on the chopper block. It can stuck into the block you are splitting, or it can go through the block all the way to your foot. This kind of accidents happens too often. 
When using the LEVERAXE you do not have to worry about the above mentioned problems. You see, the LEVERAXE is formed to be one sided. It has some elements which can be called as brakes and "safety belts".
At the very moment when the axe blade touches the block it starts to lean to the right fully automatically. It penetrates into the block only five millimetres, a fifth of an inch, on an optimum strike. So the friction is almost non existence. Still it spreads the wood up to eight centimetres. three inches. The axe blade STOPS ON THE BLOCK. This may be a little difficult to understand, but if you look at the videos carefully, you will see all how it happens. I have explained everything about the LEVERAXE on the previous pages, There are a lot information.
Splitting with a conventional axe is like driving a car without brakes and safety belts.
The LEVERAXE has in build brakes and "safety belts".
The answer to your questions can be found on previous pages where I explain the difference between our and your fireplaces.
The same is explained on my videos as well. 
Check www.vipukirves.fi/english/vipukirves_videos.htm 
On the video number 16 is the answer to your questions.
The rest of the videos are worth wile to see, too.
Would you like to tell us about your experience in splitting wood?
Best Regards
Heikki
:computer:


----------



## Woodjack

I still want to try the LEVERAXE. I'll return it timely - i promise.
Any chance I can try out this tool?


----------



## Nonprophet

Finland said:


> Splitting with a conventional axe is like driving a car without brakes and safety belts.
> The LEVERAXE has in build brakes and "safety belts".
> Would you like to tell us about your experience in splitting wood?
> Best Regards
> Heikki
> :computer:



ANY tool can be dangerous if the user is not proficient in it's use......

You say that you've been splitting wood for 60 years, and yet with all that experience you're not proficient enough to use a splitting axe or maul safely??? I don't think the tool is the problem.....

While I do agree that it's possible that the Leveraxe provides at least SOME improved safety, it can still cause serious injury if not used properly--as can a flat tip screw driver.

Lastly, design and performance issues aside, you've never really explained why your product is so very expensive? If Fiskars can make their Super Splitter axe in Finland out of top-quality Finnish steel, then ship them all the way to the U.S. and sell them for $49 dollars with a lifetime warranty (and still make money!!!) why are your Finnish-made axes $275 without shipping and only a 5 year warranty???

Inquiring minds want to know.........


NP


----------



## flotek

interesting video but as mentioned it looks as though the wood your cutting really isnt but maybe 12 inches long and looks to be fairly soft in density,lets see the leveraxe strike down through 25 inch long green hickory and white oak rounds like alot of people use in their wood furnace or OWB, not those small kindling sized pieces.I dont know anyone around here who uses wood that small in their wood appliance ...while this video doesnt show much about the ability of the leveraxes it certainly does however prove you have an uncanny voice resemblance to Latino sensation Antonio Bandaras.


----------



## slofr8

[QUOTE-lets see the leveraxe strike down through 25 inch long green hickory and white oak rounds like alot of people use in their wood furnace or OWB, not those small kindling sized pieces.I dont know anyone around here who uses wood that small in their wood appliance ...[/QUOTE]

I do. I split my wood quite small. It just works well in the soap stone stove I have. Personal preference I guess. I even split it similar to the way he does now. I actually use two tires on my block. It REALLY works well when I'm splitting Poplar. Over head swings to block it op a little, then I'll hold the axe with one hand on the end and one closer to the head and just have at it. Fast and easy. Only thing is, I do it with a Fiskars SS. If it's straight grained, I give the axe a little twist and the the pieces break off almost by them selves. I modified my technique thanks to Finland (thanks) but I can't justify the price of the leveraxe when what I've got works so well. Great concept, just to expensive.
My 2 cents.
Dan.


----------



## ericjeeper

*The leveraxe has been sent on*

I do not wish to ever have it returned to me.. I have spent over 45 dollars just mailing this thing around.. Honestly about half of what I feel the product is worth. In US Dollars of course.
Finland it is a great product. Needs a fiberglass handle instead of the wood handle.. And it needs a price tag that closer represents what you actually getting. I do understand the engineering that went in to it.. But I think you would do better with volume sales instead of trying to make your money back on the first dozen sold.

I spoke with a door manufacturer yesterday. They make steel insulated 22 gauge entry doors. The one set of dies for one model of their door. is $180,000.00 So it shows you in business it takes volume to recoup tooling and engineering cost.
I wish you the best with your axe. But it is simply overpriced for todays market. imho


----------



## SawTroll

blis said:


> Last time i checked on the 346xp the price was around 800e (aka 1 170dollars or 1 250 canucks) and on your side of pond it costs like, 400?



About 500 USD in the US, 1300 here - if it is "on sale". :censored:

*But*, it is worth it!!


----------



## Sierra99

*The price is worth it*

Guys,
first time poster here. I read all 20 pages. This is clearly a unique fine tool. It may cost more, but it's worth it if you like to split your supply by hand, as I do. Fine tools cost more. Uberti rifles, Lie-Nelson planes, etc. The satisfaction of a fine tool gives pleasure every time you use it, the pain of the price is quickly forgotten. I'm ordering one now. 

Cheers! Happy New Years!

--Brian


----------



## FJH

Lets know how it goes!


----------



## ericjeeper

Sierra99 said:


> Guys,
> first time poster here. I read all 20 pages. This is clearly a unique fine tool. It may cost more, but it's worth it if you like to split your supply by hand, as I do. Fine tools cost more. Uberti rifles, Lie-Nelson planes, etc. The satisfaction of a fine tool gives pleasure every time you use it, the pain of the price is quickly forgotten. I'm ordering one now.
> 
> Cheers! Happy New Years!
> 
> --Brian



Break a leg buddy. I have tried it on several occasions. For 80 bucks it would be a fine tool. for 272 it is a joke


----------



## stihl sawing

Sierra99 said:


> Guys,
> first time poster here. I read all 20 pages. This is clearly a unique fine tool. It may cost more, but it's worth it if you like to split your supply by hand, as I do. Fine tools cost more. Uberti rifles, Lie-Nelson planes, etc. The satisfaction of a fine tool gives pleasure every time you use it, the pain of the price is quickly forgotten. I'm ordering one now.
> 
> Cheers! Happy New Years!
> 
> --Brian


Sure you ain't been hired by this guy or him by another name. Both threads you're praising this overpriced sucker. And has never tried it. I smell a rat.


----------



## Haywire Haywood

stihl sawing said:


> Sure you ain't been hired by this guy or him by another name. Both threads you're praising this overpriced sucker. And has never tried it. I smell a rat.



Nah... he types better english than Finland.. 

Ian


----------



## Justsaws

ericjeeper said:


> Break a leg buddy. I have tried it on several occasions. For 80 bucks it would be a fine tool. for 272 it is a joke



*$272.00* :monkey: It would have to swing itself.


----------



## Woodjack

Justsaws said:


> *$272.00* :monkey: It would have to swing itself.


+1
Same here.


----------



## stihl sawing

Haywire Haywood said:


> Nah... he types better english than Finland..
> 
> Ian


LOL, He may be an easy sell, In the words of P.T. Barnum "theres a sucker born every minute"


----------



## max2cam

How much does the head of this lever-axe weigh?


----------



## Sierra99

You guys are a skeptical bunch. It aint cheap, but it's cool! No sucker or easy sell here, just a blacksmith who admires a cool hammer and wants to give it a go. My wood pile is mostly Sierra conifers that are well behaved. I like how this axe doesn't bury itself in the split like a maul, the top flange stopping the fall, so it doesn't fly through an easy split and dull itself on the dirty splitting block. It's unconventional, sure, but I like how the downward energy transitions to a lateral prying action. I think it'll do great on my wood. My collection of mauls and wedges will still get used in the dry elm, oak or pinon that I sometimes find. Of course, hardwoods split easier when green, but wood here in the dry west doesn't stay green for long so when I find it it's usually already dry and tough to split.

I watched the video's at the vipukirve website over the Christmas break. A loosened grip at the strike is needed. Some beginners (in the videos) seem to fight the rotating action. I loosen my grip at impact with my 6 and 8 lb mauls just to ease the shock, like you do when blacksmithing with a 3 lb hammer, so I think it'll work for me. 

I've been considering getting a fast splitter, like a Super-Split; it's spendy, but 100% made in the USA (except for the engine), which I support. The leveraxe is 1/10 the cost of a SS. It isn't cheap, but small lot custom steel casting is expensive, unless the plant has no environmental regs and dirt cheap labor as in India or China. 

Fiskars makes their axes in China now, I think; they are well made, like Chinese made Gerber knives (Fiskars owns them too), but that's how they can sell it in the US at such a low price. I've got an old Portland USA Gerber knife about 30 years ago, for about the same price as the new ones made in China today; 30 yrs of inflation about equals the cost savings of off shore production. If they were still made in the US, it would cost 3 to 4 times as much. I've got an old 1927 Little Giant power hammer; you can get cast steel replacement parts for it, made in USA; they aren't cheap, and the guy making them is just making a living, not getting rich. I've got a cast steel Nimba anvil made in Tacoma, WA; it wasn't cheap either. Labor costs, payroll taxes, and (usually) excessive government regs, environmental compliance, etc. is what makes USA stuff pricy, same goes for Finland I guess.


----------



## Sierra99

I'm also interested in the head weight, blade length and overall length of the head and handle.


----------



## ericjeeper

Sierra99 said:


> I'm also interested in the head weight, blade length and overall length of the head and handle.



What? You are going to steal this mans invention that he has worked years to develop? I think I smell a skunk here,, You are wanting to build them and sell them cheaper than Finland?


----------



## Iron Mike

ericjeeper said:


> What? You are going to steal this mans invention that he has worked years to develop? I think I smell a skunk here,, You are wanting to build them and sell them cheaper than Finland?



Ding Ding Ding... You advance to the lightning round

I detect a little bit of a fishy aroma too.


----------



## stihl sawing

ericjeeper said:


> What? You are going to steal this mans invention that he has worked years to develop? I think I smell a skunk here,, You are wanting to build them and sell them cheaper than Finland?


Hmmm, You may be right.He is wanting to know all the dimensions of it.lets see if he has a comeback for it.


----------



## Sierra99

No, I don't want to market a copy. Jeesh. You guys are a hard lot! Must be from Missouri or sumpin... 

I just want to compare its weight with my other axes. I use an 8 lb (chinese) generic maul all the time, needed on dry pinon pine, and sometimes only the the triple wedge method will bust these rounds open (two from Japan, one USA made). I also use an old USA 6 lb maul on the easier stuff. 

I do some hobby blacksmithing, and considered making a copy of this axe, just one mind you, for my own use! Use some heavy truck leaf spring for the body, forge it to shape, weld on a socket, build up the mass on one side, etc. But this would take a whole day in the shop, and I know the result wouldn't be nearly so pretty as Heikki's unit. 

About 3 years ago they extended a road across the area south of the airport in Reno, and the city cut about 50 big old ~60 year old elms down. They even hauled some off to the dump I was told. They then bulldozed a bunch of logs into some large piles mixed with dirt. The local wood yards don't bother with elm, I guess due to its tough splitting. So a few locals went down and decided to help the city out, you know, save them the trouble of hauling this stuff to the dump. I started started cutting rounds out of the piles, dulling a lot of chain in the process. Dirty bark. This stuff is incredibly heavy when green, 24" OD x 16" rounds weighed like 200 lbs I'd guess. So over a months time I brought home about 8 (heavy) pick-up loads, maybe 6 cords. It's had 2 summers to dry, so last fall I went to split it. I gave up on my usual methods and borrowed a friends old splitter. Sometimes i didn't know what was breaking faster, the wood or the splitter. It is a 30 year old Monkey wards unit, a 3.5" cylinder I think. The sled under the pusher plate kept breaking bolts and galling on the Ibeam. Too short a sled, really. I had to replace the hydraulic pump, the reservoir, rebuild the cylinder, and did some welding/millng on the sled. I finally got it all split but it was a slow process. 

So since then I've been looking at splitters, but I'm not too impressed with the stuff at Lowes, too many parts made in China, and they put the axle right where you want to stand on these vertical/horizontal units. I prefer horizontal with a table, that way you bend over just once per piece. So I quarter the big rounds on the ground manually. I prefer US made stuff, but this is hard to find, and when you do find it the prices can be scary, like the flywheel/rack/pinion SuperSplitter (~$3300 for HD model with outfeed table and shipping). It's made in the US, tho, so I'd have to factor that in. It's probably worth it for the speed/time savings over the next 20-30 years. 

Having sat on the fence a while, I decided to just stick with my manual methods for the time being since most of what I can get is just conifer and not too challenging. But all this sweating over spending 2-3 grand on a power splitter sort of got me used to the sticker shock, so the leveaxe price doesn't seem so bad to me anymore. Sort of like looking at a new Dodge Ram 2500 w/ a Cummins, considering that sticker shock for awhile, then smiling at the price of a new Ford F150. It's all relative, ya know?

So does that leveraxe head weigh ~4 lbs like a Fiskars, or more like the usual 6 lb small maul?


----------



## 6woodheads

*Demo Leveraxe*

I'm very interested in testing this unique axe. The idea is brilliant. I would love to try it out and give my honest comment/opinion regarding to this ax.


----------



## ericjeeper

6woodheads said:


> I'm very interested in testing this unique axe. The idea is brilliant. I would love to try it out and give my honest comment/opinion regarding to this ax.



Once you have been an active member for a year, you may be allowed to participate. The reason we have done this.. One newbie got the axe and failed to pass it on. A possee was sent in to retrieve the axe.


----------



## super3

Sierra99 said:


> No, I don't want to market a copy.
> 
> 
> 
> I do some hobby blacksmithing, and considered making a copy of this axe, just one mind you, for my own use! Use some heavy truck leaf spring for the body, forge it to shape, weld on a socket, build up the mass on one side, etc. But this would take a whole day in the shop, and I know the result wouldn't be nearly so pretty as Heikki's unit.




Which one is it???


----------



## Finland

*Missing LEVERAXE*

It is very obvious that somebody has fallen in love with the LEVERAXE. That is why is seems to be confiscated again.
Of course it is understandable, but not fair for the others.
Best Regards
Heikki


----------



## Haywire Haywood

Or maybe they figured it wasn't worth the postage to mail it.

Ian


----------



## stihl sawing

Haywire Haywood said:


> Or maybe they figured it wasn't worth the postage to mail it.
> 
> Ian


Probably holding somebodys trot line down under the water..


----------



## isaaccarlson

*Even if it split EVERYTHING with ONE SWING I would not buy it.*

It is too expensive. I have a $30 splitting axe and it works great. I also built a hydro splitter for less than twice the price of that twisteraxe thingy. I have yet to find a piece of wood that I can't split. The "safety factor" is null. That thing would do more damage to a leg than a normal axe because it is covered in points!!!! He says you are supposed to let go at the last moment....That is the last thing I would want to do with an axe.....if it misses/deflects you are toast. No way I would pay almost 300 clams for an axe anyway....

Hope the twistersplitter helps SOMEBODY catch fish... sorry to hear it is missing


----------



## Woodjack

*Not-missing Leveraxe*



Finland said:


> It is very obvious that somebody has fallen in love with the LEVERAXE. That is why is seems to be confiscated again.
> Of course it is understandable, but not fair for the others.
> Best Regards
> Heikki



Cool your armpits. I got the Leveraxe. Where do you want me to send it next?


----------



## isaaccarlson

*maybe send it to the GTG in Grantsburg.....*

got till Saturday... I would kinda like to see it in person....


----------



## Woodjack

It's a good axe. I like it. Let me know when the price drops 90% and I'll consider buying it.


----------



## KNOTwood

*I tried it*

Hi,

I originally read most posts on this site before trying the leveraxe, and even before trying the axe I found many inconsistancies in the postings.

Many complain that it cannot do all jobs, yet then brag about how many and what axes they own. This axe, as any other tool, is designed for a specific purpose. Hammers are the same way, ranging from a small Tinker Toy hammer to a large sledge hammer. Each is designed for a specific purpose.

This axe is not a felling axe, nor is it a splitting maul. It is designed to split wood into small segments, as FINLAND states.

Some of the postings also show the user does not know how to properly use the axe. That is expected, many do not know how to drive a car or use a chainsaw either. But not to rip on anyone. I have used this axe and I would like to give an evaluation from my point of view.

I personally met Heikki and used the axe with him. He demonstrated proper technique and form, and then gave a wood splitting demonstration.

I used the axe and found it a little different in that I wanted to grip the handle too firmly. This is a reflection of using axes and splitting mauls and being wary of the axe glancing off the wood and hitting the ground (dangerous for feet). Once I held the handle looser, I found the axe worked quite well. It is light, strokes downward were effortless and the wood split as advertised. Of course, if hitting in the center of the log, it did not fling pieces, but when following the explained technique, it worked amazingly well.

I found the axe easy to use, less work to use, and fun to use. Something about how the axe head rotates and flings the split wood to the side, all with a motion that cannot be seen, just something felt... it is fun.

No, I did not buy the axe. I have an axe at home, and as much as I was impressed with the axe, I have a wife who would not be impressed with the price tag... so it waits for more firewood to justify it.

I split mainly birch, but also some other woods. I split wood up to 16 inches or so long, and even larger in diameter. Some of the knots were over 4 inches and several pieces had multiple knots with twisted grain. Technique is important. As with your normal axe/maul, you try to relieve the pressure in the wood by splitting between the knots. Once the wood is opened, the wood splits like straight grained wood. Hard to explain if you do not know how to split wood (work smart, not hard) and only try brute force to split wood instead of examining the wood and hitting the weak points.

So, I am impressed with the axe for splitting wood. Not large logs, but splitting wood up to 16 inches or maybe a bit larger, I did not try it on longer chunks. Diameter is not an issue as the splits are from the side.

Safety is inherent in the design, I understand the principle and it seemed to work quite well.

Summary: This axe does what it is designed for. It is not designed to compete with an 8 lb maul splitting 25 inch long chuncks, but try to use that maul to compete with this axe and you lose. Only downside: price. It is easier to use than heavier mauls or normal axes, splits wood faster than them or electric log splitters, and gives some exercise.

Please ask questions, I will try to respond directly.

No, I do not own one nor have I been given any money for this review. Just my thoughts.


----------



## Haywire Haywood

This is me, clicking the unsubscribe button... should have done this 6 pages ago.... --Ian


----------



## Finland

*The price*



Woodjack said:


> It's a good axe. I like it. Let me know when the price drops 90% and I'll consider buying it.



I am sorry to say this, but do not even dream about it. The price may drop a little bit during the time being when I have found a proper manufacture in US, but so far I cannot effect to the price. Finland is possibly the most expensive country in Europe. We have rather good social security, salaries and high standard of living. This all costs money, even if you make LEVERAXES.
After a few months testing I expect you to be able to write a little wider about the LEVERAXE. 
Who wants to be the next tester?
Over 4,5 years on the market. NO ACCIDENT. NO PROBLEM trees.

Enjoy your summer.
Regards Heikki --- --- thank you


----------



## Finland

*Slow-motion video*

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9_9wmjK3j8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBsNxfB9ZCM&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZf0Hi9XIkM&feature=related

Regards

Heikki


----------



## Metals406

Finland said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9_9wmjK3j8
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBsNxfB9ZCM&feature=related
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZf0Hi9XIkM&feature=related
> 
> Regards
> 
> Heikki



Cool video!! Now you just need to come up with a 2.722 kilogram head -- and a U.S. manufacturer that can pump them out for $49.95.


----------



## Woodjack

*Leveaxe lives on.*

Leveraxe is en route to it's new home. Jensent will be in possession as the next axe tester.

Thank you Mr. Finland for letting me the try your Leveaxe.
It's a s great axe. I enjoyed using it.

However, as has been said over and over again, it's much too expensive. You claim it's because Finland has a lot of social services. How wonderful - but I don't think anyone here wants to pay for it.

I tried making leveraxe my axe of choice - first out of the woodshed. Bottom line is I still prefer my Fiskars that's about one sixth the price. If the Leveraxe was much much much much cheaper, it may give Fiskars a run for it's money.:greenchainsaw:


----------



## Finland

Woodjack said:


> Leveraxe is en route to it's new home. Jensent will be in possession as the next axe tester.
> 
> Thank you Mr. Finland for letting me the try your Leveaxe.
> It's a s great axe. I enjoyed using it.
> 
> However, as has been said over and over again, it's much too expensive. You claim it's because Finland has a lot of social services. How wonderful - but I don't think anyone here wants to pay for it.
> 
> I tried making leveraxe my axe of choice - first out of the woodshed. Bottom line is I still prefer my Fiskars that's about one sixth the price. If the Leveraxe was much much much much cheaper, it may give Fiskars a run for it's money.:greenchainsaw:



Thank you for your honest opinion. I fully agree with you that it can be expensive for some people and for some communities. It is the question about where you live. The value of the money is different in each country. The price of the Leveraxe is very tolerable in Finland. If we are looking to Japan, the price there is 49800 JPY, this equals 583.48 USD. Check http://easyconverter.net/currency/ http://vipukirves.net/default.aspx
These are such things to which, so far, I cannot effect.
Anyway, next step, some day I hope to be possible to manufacture the Leveraxes in US. by your own laibor and by your own living costs. Then, I hope, the price will be lowered possible for everyone. So far I will continue negotiations and do my best to reach the point good for us all. 
I get a lot of excellent feed back from my American and Canadian customers. 
All the best
Regards
Heikki, the inventor


----------



## RDA1

I am interested in trying this axe. I haven't read the complete thread, only the first 7-8 pages. Or, if someone is going to have it in Ohio soon, maybe I can coordinate a time to meet up.

If it is still going around, please let me know. Shipping is a non-issue, I ship stuff via FedEx Ground every week.

Regards,

Rich


----------



## Finland

RDA1 said:


> I am interested in trying this axe. I haven't read the complete thread, only the first 7-8 pages. Or, if someone is going to have it in Ohio soon, maybe I can coordinate a time to meet up.
> 
> If it is still going around, please let me know. Shipping is a non-issue, I ship stuff via FedEx Ground every week.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Rich



I suppose that the last one who got the Leveraxe for testing purposes, has got time enough. Now it is time to send it to the next tester. Mean while you'll find the next one, read this.KIRVES: Heikki Vipukirves
Best regards
Heikki


----------



## RDA1

Finland said:


> I suppose that the last one who got the Leveraxe for testing purposes, has got time enough. Now it is time to send it to the next tester. Mean while you'll find the next one, read this.KIRVES: Heikki Vipukirves
> Best regards
> Heikki



Tell me who to send it to and I'll send it on. I never even opened the box it came it when shipped to me.

Regards,

Rich


----------



## ericjeeper

RDA1 said:


> I am interested in trying this axe. I haven't read the complete thread, only the first 7-8 pages. Or, if someone is going to have it in Ohio soon, maybe I can coordinate a time to meet up.
> 
> If it is still going around, please let me know. Shipping is a non-issue, I ship stuff via FedEx Ground every week.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Rich


 
I think there has been a minimum requirement set as to post and length of membership to receive the axe.. It has went AWOL a few times over the past few years. We are trying diligently to not lose Finlands axe.It is nothing personal against you...


----------



## ericjeeper

*Question to Finland*

here in USA our minimum wage that a lot of workers work for is around 8 US dollars per hour. So one basically has to work a full 40 hours in order to be able to purchase this fine tool. How many hours does the average Finlander have to work to buy it in your country?


----------



## ericjeeper

RDA advised me he has the axe, and is ready to pass it on.


----------



## Finland

ericjeeper said:


> here in USA our minimum wage that a lot of workers work for is around 8 US dollars per hour. So one basically has to work a full 40 hours in order to be able to purchase this fine tool. How many hours does the average Finlander have to work to buy it in your country?


 Difficult to say the precise number of hours, but based to the average net salary the answer is 10-15 hours.
Can be more, can be less.


----------



## Finland

*Lost again*



Finland said:


> It is very obvious that somebody has fallen in love with the LEVERAXE. That is why is seems to be confiscated again.
> Of course it is understandable, but not fair for the others.
> Best Regards
> Heikki


 
Looks like it's lost again?


----------



## RDA1

Finland said:


> Looks like it's lost again?


 

Far from it, I have it, I am more than happy to pass it on but I would need to be told who to pass it on to.

http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/46925-22.htm#post2831509

Regards,

Rich


----------



## Finland

*Comparison*

Hello
Long time no talk to you. Here's something to look at.

Vipukirves axe vs. splitting logs with Fiskars and Hultafors axes.wmv by VJ Ann O'Nymous | YouTube Doubler | Mashup Helper


----------



## tbow388

*I wanna Try*

Looks kinda interesting. I wanna try it.


----------



## Finland

*More information*



tbow388 said:


> Looks kinda interesting. I wanna try it.



Why don't you look at these, too.
In some of the videos I try to explain how to use the leveraxe.

vipukirves - YouTube


----------



## ericjeeper

tbow388 said:


> Looks kinda interesting. I wanna try it.



Spend some time on the forum. Then get on the list. Put up some post.


----------



## zogger

Finland said:


> Hello
> Long time no talk to you. Here's something to look at.
> 
> Vipukirves axe vs. splitting logs with Fiskars and Hultafors axes.wmv by VJ Ann O'Nymous | YouTube Doubler | Mashup Helper




I don't split like that how you are doing it with the fiskars and hultafors. I start at the outside and go around the log until I get to the heartwood, then split that in half or quarters. It is MUCH more efficient that way and less getting the axe stuck and more clean splits with every strike.

You start with a round, go around the outside, take off small chunks. Some of those can get resplit in half as well. The bark on trees acts like a band that holds the wood together more, the faster you get the band off, the easier it gets to split.

Now on the inside still remaining to be split part of the log round, you have anything from a square to an octagon to a ..whatever, a 16-agon. We get some whopper big rounds here sometimes, so going around from the outside results in varying geometric shapes once the bark wood chunks are split off.. 

NOW you can grid it out, splitting nice neat splits, again, starting from the outside and work your way in.

Why you do this, working from the outside in on larger logs/rounds is less stuck together surface area, meaning less effort to get the wood unstuck or "split".

Whacking right down the middle in medium to large rounds is the old fashioned heavy clunky dull maul method, using brute force over proper technique. I only split down the middle if the round only needs splitting in half or quarters, anything larger than that, I go round and round first.

I like your videos though and that lever axe. I can afford the fiskars and got one of those. Leveraxe is like weeks of pay for me...so that isn't happening...but it *is* really neat looking and looks like it could work well in a lot of situations.


----------



## Finland

*Video*



zogger said:


> I don't split like that how you are doing it with the fiskars and hultafors. I start at the outside and go around the log until I get to the heartwood, then split that in half or quarters. It is MUCH more efficient that way and less getting the axe stuck and more clean splits with every strike.
> 
> You start with a round, go around the outside, take off small chunks. Some of those can get resplit in half as well. The bark on trees acts like a band that holds the wood together more, the faster you get the band off, the easier it gets to split.
> 
> Now on the inside still remaining to be split part of the log round, you have anything from a square to an octagon to a ..whatever, a 16-agon. We get some whopper big rounds here sometimes, so going around from the outside results in varying geometric shapes once the bark wood chunks are split off..
> 
> NOW you can grid it out, splitting nice neat splits, again, starting from the outside and work your way in.
> 
> Why you do this, working from the outside in on larger logs/rounds is less stuck together surface area, meaning less effort to get the wood unstuck or "split".
> 
> Whacking right down the middle in medium to large rounds is the old fashioned heavy clunky dull maul method, using brute force over proper technique. I only split down the middle if the round only needs splitting in half or quarters, anything larger than that, I go round and round first.
> 
> I like your videos though and that lever axe. I can afford the fiskars and got one of those. Leveraxe is like weeks of pay for me...so that isn't happening...but it *is* really neat looking and looks like it could work well in a lot of situations.



Check this video and the others,too. Here you can see what you just wrote. Leveraxe Vipukirves prototype - YouTube
The differences between the Leveraxe and the conventional axes are, that there is almost no friction in the Leveraxe. The leverage multiplies the splitting power even 30 times stronger . The axe blade stops on the block. In addition to this, during the 6 years existence of the Leveraxe there has happened NO ACCIDENT with it.
The reasons for these advantages can be found in my websites DESCRIPTION


----------



## zogger

*Yes, that's it*



Finland said:


> Check this video and the others,too. Here you can see what you just wrote. Leveraxe Vipukirves prototype - YouTube
> The differences between the Leveraxe and the conventional axes are, that there is almost no friction in the Leveraxe. The leverage multiplies the splitting power even 30 times stronger . The axe blade stops on the block. In addition to this, during the 6 years existence of the Leveraxe there has happened NO ACCIDENT with it.
> The reasons for these advantages can be found in my websites DESCRIPTION



Yes, that is exactly what I mean and how I split wood here. I have done rounds well over 30 inches and around 300 lbs weight with that technique and it is fast (with the fiskars supersplitter). You can't reload any cheap hydro splitter as fast. The only thing faster is an expensive professional grade wood processor.

I like your axe a lot. It shows a LOT of thought went into the design. Get it into more mass production and some cheaper in cost, and I will try to get one then.

Also interesting there have been no accidents with your design. Can't say that for any other axe out there.

Have you ever gotten a chance to try it in any really large hardwoods? I don't know what you might have in Finland to try it out on. Or perhaps one of your clients might have bought one in the US (or elsewhere, of course) and tried it and has a report?


----------



## mayhem100

Finland said:


> Hello
> Long time no talk to you. Here's something to look at.
> 
> Vipukirves axe vs. splitting logs with Fiskars and Hultafors axes.wmv by VJ Ann O'Nymous | YouTube Doubler | Mashup Helper



While this is an interesting pair of videos, I don't really see why these two implements would ever be compared...these tools have different purposes and are designed to do different things. The Leveraxe is a full length splitting tool and the user is splitting using vastly different techniques (inside a tire, using a different pattern, etc) and is splitting a different type of wood in what looks to be significantly warmer weather...all the variables are stacked in the Leveraxe's favor...the Fiskars looks like it did fairly well considering its basically a hatchet...I cannot imagine ever using something that size to try to split rounds...at least not safely. You can't get a good swing and the thing has no real mass so its not going to go through the wood.

How about comparing the Fiskars X27 versus the Leveraxe? Both splitting rounds from the same tree in the same conditions and using the same splitting technique to chop the round into similarly sized splits?


----------



## zogger

The lever axe did well. The guy with the fiskars needed a much lower splitting block and work from the outside in to be more efficient. Lot of wasted swings that would have been clean splits. He is using it like a heavy maul, not like a lightweight axe.


----------



## dancan

Just looks like a DR mechanical vrs hydaulic splitter demo to me .
Show them with the same technique and setup and then you'd have a fair side by side , until then it's just an infomercial .
I'd still like to try one just the same .


----------



## stihl sawing

Still too expensive.


----------



## flotek

Well Anybody can make toothpicks out of short soft pine I can do that with a. 12$ Collins from tractor supply .. Now Grab a big ugly oak stump covered with knots and let's see how fast you make a split . Did I read this correctly that The cost is. 584$ American. We can only afford one expensive massive social program in our country. ( obummer care ) and we don't have much disposable income to pay for finlands social issues too


----------



## ultimate buzz

flotek said:


> Well Anybody can make toothpicks out of short soft pine I can do that with a. 12$ Collins from tractor supply .. Now Grab a big ugly oak stump covered with knots and let's see how fast you make a split . Did I read this correctly that The cost is. 584$ American. We can only afford one expensive massive social program in our country. ( obummer care ) and we don't have much disposable income to pay for finlands social issues too


 
Flotek, in a previous post it was mentioned that the leveraxe was about $320 Canadien, and about $280 in US dollars, but that post was from 2011 and did not include shipping.

Eric, what is the status of the leveraxe? Is it still floating around or was it sent back to Findland? -ken


----------



## flotek

Okay sorry I misread that it's 277$


----------



## zogger

flotek said:


> Well Anybody can make toothpicks out of short soft pine I can do that with a. 12$ Collins from tractor supply .. Now Grab a big ugly oak stump covered with knots and let's see how fast you make a split . Did I read this correctly that The cost is. 584$ American. We can only afford one expensive massive social program in our country. ( obummer care ) and we don't have much disposable income to pay for finlands social issues too




No ones axe or maul splits gnarly twisted crotches all that well. It just doesn't happen. It can be done, but it sucks, 10 buck chinnee marvel, some custom 1000 buck hand forged with secret voodoo cermony axe. You just ain't gonna, even if conan sized. 

You can get through gnarly stuff by actually slicing through fibers, but that isn't splitting either, that's cutting or chopping. 

worst I ever did was some huge elm I was given, I cut it with a big crosscut into rounds, then split with my lightweight axe. I had to work and work at that. I eventually got pieces small enough to stuff in the stove, but I wouldn't consider what I did to be called splitting. 

I have never seen any piece of oak as gnarly as that stuff.

All my other wood for years was split with that same small axe. I got reasonably good at splitting then, and I am better now, even though I am older, smaller, and not near as robust. 

No one back then when all the big elms were dying wanted to split that crap, even with what hydraulic splitters were out there at the time. The giant elms that used to be all over. The stuff got left to rot, dumped in ravines, or burnt where it was by the millions of trees. *That's* "gnarly". Small limbs that could fit in stove or evaporator rig got used, but the trunks got abandoned for the most part.

I have never run into anything like that since, some older twisted sweetgums get close.

I use different tools to hand split, some day if I get super flush I might try a leveraxe.


----------



## zogger

flotek said:


> Well Anybody can make toothpicks out of short soft pine I can do that with a. 12$ Collins from tractor supply .. Now Grab a big ugly oak stump covered with knots and let's see how fast you make a split . Did I read this correctly that The cost is. 584$ American. We can only afford one expensive massive social program in our country. ( obummer care ) and we don't have much disposable income to pay for finlands social issues too




No ones axe or maul splits gnarly twisted crotches all that well. It just doesn't happen. It can be done, but it sucks, 10 buck chinnee marvel, some custom 1000 buck hand forged with secret voodoo cermony axe. You just ain't gonna, even if conan sized. 

You can get through gnarly stuff by actually slicing through fibers, but that isn't splitting either, that's cutting or chopping. 

worst I ever did was some huge elm I was given, I cut it with a big crosscut into rounds, then split with my lightweight axe. I had to work and work at that. I eventually got pieces small enough to stuff in the stove, but I wouldn't consider what I did to be called splitting. 

I have never seen any piece of oak as gnarly as that stuff.

All my other wood for years was split with that same small axe. I got reasonably good at splitting then, and I am better now, even though I am older, smaller, and not near as robust. 

No one back then when all the big elms were dying wanted to split that crap, even with what hydraulic splitters were out there at the time. The giant elms that used to be all over. The stuff got left to rot, dumped in ravines, or burnt where it was by the millions of trees. *That's* "gnarly". Small limbs that could fit in stove or evaporator rig got used, but the trunks got abandoned for the most part.

I have never run into anything like that since, some older twisted sweetgums get close.

I use different tools to hand split, some day if I get super flush I might try a leveraxe.


----------



## zogger

Well, I gotta admit, you were busting up that elm and it didn't take much!

Like I said, if I ever get flush, I really might buy one. right now ain't got it to spare.

Just for the steel guys here, what are the specs and steel quality numbers used in the head?


----------



## stihl sawing

That don't look like any elm we have here.


----------



## zogger

stihl sawing said:


> That don't look like any elm we have here.




No strings for sure, but whatever, he was busting it. I mentioned elm and he had a vid.


----------



## stihl sawing

zogger said:


> No strings for sure, but whatever, he was busting it. I mentioned elm and he had a vid.


I don't doubt the axe will work ok, just way overpriced. It's no better than any other splitting axe. That twisting action would hurt the hands and wrist, seems like to me.


----------



## woodchuck357

The twisting action isn't hard on the wrists, the guy in the videos needs to use a little flip to go along with that built in by the design. If he did there would be much less sticking. I made a similar adaptation of a maul a few years ago by making a stop on one side and adding weight on the other side of the hammer end to make the flip I use automatic. Learning to flip any ax or maul is much better than buying a specialized one trick pony, flipping an ax can be done to both sides and still cut stringers like you get with elm.


----------



## Finland

stihl sawing said:


> That don't look like any elm we have here.



Why don't you split your elm. Then they might look alike. Mine are all splitted already with the Vipukirves/Leveraxe.


----------



## stihl sawing

Finland said:


> Why don't you split your elm. Then they might look alike. Mine are all splitted already with the Vipukirves/Leveraxe.


Bring that overpriced thing down here and split some of our piss elm, I promise you it won't do what it did in your video. My 35 ton hydro will shred it before it splits. I'm not saying your maul is a bad tool, just way out of my price range, I'll stick with my monster maul, was busting 30 inch red oak rounds yesterday with it. Will your wrist twister do that.


----------



## stihl sawing

Finland said:


> You are asking classified information to which you will not get the answer. The Vipukirves/ Leveraxe has been on the market over eight years.
> Not a single blade has broken. The blade has 10 years guarantee. http://vipukirves.fi/english/users_guide.htm


And you just probably pissed off the only one that was going to buy one with that answer.


----------



## zogger

stihl sawing said:


> And you just probably pissed off the only one that was going to buy one with that answer.




Naw, I am not real pizzed at that, just wanted the smart guys here to give an opinion on the steel quality is all. the shape and function, etc is his design and that is there to see. I personally wouldn't know what any numbers meant anyway, but a lot of guys here would. I guess just the alloy and what sort of har5dness and I don't know what else to ask really.

If he can somehow get the price down to closer to a hundred bucks I would get one most likely and do a good review in the various wood here, I have easy as anything wood to egads this sucks. And I would test at 16 inches, not twelve inches.

I like the idea of lessening any sort of shock to the hands/wrists and the design intrigues me. I can do a slight wrist twist with the fiskars already, but having it done automagically with less shock is an innovative idea. 

There are guys here where 300 is about nothing, another used saw to sit on the shelf next to the other 20 or 200 saws they don't really need, that they just collect to have at least one or a dozen in some series...nothing wrong with that, just way outside my budget.. Me, three bills is high, a lot of money, the truck I drive cost me 450 bucks. I just don't make that much, takes me awhile to afford things and have to sacrifice in other places to get my saws and wood stuff.

I understand a long time ago one got shipped around and shared, but haven't seen that I don't think, whatever happened to it, where did it work well, where it didn't, etc. And certainly no pics or vids from the other members here who tried it out way back some time.


----------



## dancan

My previous post must have been missed or misunderstood so I'll repost it differently .
I understand the concept and the technique and the mechanics of the splitting process with the Vipukives but your side by side videos are a joke , if you're going to put up a comparison with creditability , show someone with proficient knowledge in use of both tools and use them that way , not with the intent to make one look bad by intentional bad technique .
I still would like to try one so I know .... "I" being the only one that I have to make happy after purchase .


----------



## Finland

dancan said:


> My previous post must have been missed or misunderstood so I'll repost it differently .
> I understand the concept and the technique and the mechanics of the splitting process with the Vipukives but your side by side videos are a joke , if you're going to put up a comparison with creditability , show someone with proficient knowledge in use of both tools and use them that way , not with the intent to make one look bad by intentional bad technique .
> I still would like to try one so I know .... "I" being the only one that I have to make happy after purchase .



Would be interesting to see a video where YOU split firewood. They are two different things, to do something and talk about something.


----------



## Jim Timber

I'm going to take a stab in the dark and say it's going to be 1055-1075 high carbon alloy. Holds an edge well and is tough so it won't chip the blade.

I fail to see how this is a trade secret though. Every knife maker on the planet with product worth owning is usually quite proud to state the fine materials they use in their wares.


----------



## zogger

Jim Timber said:


> I'm going to take a stab in the dark and say it's going to be 1055-1075 high carbon alloy. Holds an edge well and is tough so it won't chip the blade.
> 
> I fail to see how this is a trade secret though. Every knife maker on the planet with product worth owning is usually quite proud to state the fine materials they use in their wares.



I would think so, too, as this is being offered as a premium product at a premium price.


----------



## dancan

Finland said:


> Would be interesting to see a video where YOU split firewood. They are two different things, to do something and talk about something.



You're not understanding what I'm trying to say . As I stated , I understand the concept of design and how well it works when used as designed .
What I'm trying to point out is that the side by side videos are not a fair comparison until both tools are used in the most efficient manner .
At least compare them using the same method in similar wood .
I am not in anyway in my previous posts implying that your axe is either good or bad , just pointing out that the side by side is , and I stand by this , worthless (unless you have another video ) .
If you want to send me an axe , or if you have a local dealer here in Nova Scotia that can get me a demo I will buy a cord of local hardwood logs , pick a 1/4 cord from it , divide in 2 and split on video  
I own 2 mauls , 1 wedge and 3 splitting axes , if there is a better axe out there I want it because it means more time for beer .
Again , not badmouthing your product , I'd love to try it , just not impressed with the marketing .
If anything is still unclear , send me a pm .


----------



## flotek

I admire your persistence on marketing the product but I think maybe some videos are in order specifically ones in which you split dense hardwood over 20" long like we have here. . Going around a small soft elm log and wacking off 100 match sticks is not really an effective demonstration no one would heat their house with those splinters , we call that kindling fire starters here . How bout some videos that's realistic to what alot of America would use it for. I'm not familiar with your native tree species in Europe but some twisted maple hickory or oak stumps might display the axe more effectively. I always heard the trees are smaller and softer over pond is why I ask


----------



## Stayalert

If the tool is still traveling I'd like to try it out here in Vermont. I have a variety of wood to split and some of it would be easier with this tool. For my own use (~10 cord per year) I aim for about 20" length but I have customers who want 16" or 18" lengths….Where is mister twister splitter now?


----------



## StihlFroling

Anyone try the new x27 knock off being sold at lowes.


----------



## zogger

StihlFroling said:


> Anyone try the new x27 knock off being sold at lowes.



A real offbrand knockoff, or do you mean the all black fiskars?


----------



## 513yj

StihlFroling said:


> Anyone try the new x27 knock off being sold at lowes.




I bought the truper brand, well I basically got it free from tractor supply. It works pretty darn good so far but I don't have a fiskars to compare it to.


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## StihlFroling

zogger said:


> A real offbrand knockoff, or do you mean the all black fiskars?


It has a red composite handle, cast head. Handle got a few waves at the grip. Can't remember the brand, but it's not ok bolt or husky. Might have been true temper......$31


zogger said:


> A real offbrand knockoff, or do you mean the all black fiskars?


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## zogger

StihlFroling said:


> It has a red composite handle, cast head. Handle got a few waves at the grip. Can't remember the brand, but it's not ok bolt or husky. Might have been true temper......$31



Ya, I just looked, the true temper one has that wiggly handle.


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## StihlFroling

Well I can confirm the menards version for $29 works as good as the x27. I was kinda surprised, as I figured there would be something about it that fell short. More time will tell how it holds up, but the splitting ease is there. 4.5lbs.


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## svk

StihlFroling said:


> Well I can confirm the menards version for $29 works as good as the x27. I was kinda surprised, as I figured there would be something about it that fell short. More time will tell how it holds up, but the splitting ease is there. 4.5lbs.



Good to know, may have to pick one up to leave at the hunting cabin.


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## svk

I would like to see a Fiskars vs Leveraxe head to head comparison with similar sized operators on wood from the same log.


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## svk

Finland said:


> Here you are.
> http://youtubedoubler.com/?video1=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ol57Y57-mw&start1=0&video2=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJt-UR9f_a4&feature=channel&list=UL&start2&authorName=meahwahwah


Yeah that's not even close to a comparison. 

"The same wood" means the same wood. Not a big chunk of hardwood compared to a short piece of softwood that sounds to be kiln dried.

Those two are about as similar as hunting quail with a 12 gauge is to hunting tigers with a spear.


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## zogger

svk said:


> Yeah that's not even close to a comparison.
> 
> "The same wood" means the same wood. Not a big chunk of hardwood compared to a short piece of softwood that sounds to be kiln dried.
> 
> Those two are about as similar as hunting quail with a 12 gauge is to hunting tigers with a spear.



If I hit the lottery for some scratch, I'll buy one to check out and review, but 300 clams is taking me too close to a gas splitter, or right at an electric one.

I *would* like to try one though.


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## Finland

svk said:


> Yeah that's not even close to a comparison.
> 
> "The same wood" means the same wood. Not a big chunk of hardwood compared to a short piece of softwood that sounds to be kiln dried.
> 
> Those two are about as similar as hunting quail with a 12 gauge is to hunting tigers with a spear.



Well, we are a few thousand kilometres apart. That was the closest I could find. 
You are most welcome to Finland with your big blogs. 
I have used a lot of different conventional axes and mauls. I bet, you haven't used the Vipukirves/leveraxe, so what do you really know about it?


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## zogger

Well, I have about zero body fat. Second, asking price is more than two weeks pay for me. I do hand split, well, slowed down this summer when I hurt my elbow, but I have over 15 cord hanging around I hand split.

Like I said, if I hit the lottery for at least a few thou, I'll buy one and try it out, until then, have to make do with what I have.


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## svk

Finland said:


> Well, we are a few thousand kilometres apart. That was the closest I could find.
> You are most welcome to Finland with your big blogs.
> I have used a lot of different conventional axes and mauls. I bet, you haven't used the Vipukirves/leveraxe, so what do you really know about it?


My wife is 7/8 Finn 1/8 Norwegian and my dad was 7/8 Finn 1/8 Swede (although I'm a Heinz 57 by blood). So I do my best to try to promote your country whenever I can. 

With that being said, no I haven't used the leveraxe. However, I've yet to see any meaningful head to head comparison between the leveraxe and a standard axe. Sure it blows apart ultra dry, straight grained wood as shown in your videos. But so would a Fiskars, Hult Bruks, Gransfors or Walmart cheapie. And the higher performing tools in that group just may outperform the LA. With the lack of an independent review I'm not about to drop over $300 on something that appears "gimmicky". 

If there's something of substance I'm all ears. But selling sizzle with no steak isn't going to attract this buyer.


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## svk

PS if your traveling promo is still floating around I'd love to give it a try. I've got a lot of wood to split this fall to get myself into the 16-17' supply. I'll certainly give it an honest try. I'll even video it, although not sure you all will be able to understand my Minnnneeesoootan accent.


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## svk

As I said I've yet to find a head to head. The dual view you posted a few pages back compared LA to a Fiskars hatchet and a hultafors chopping axe. Again not a comparison of similar tools.


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## svk

What happened here? Finland apparently deleted some of his replies???


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## stihl sawing

svk said:


> What happened here? Finland apparently deleted some of his replies???


No I did cause he is a non sponsor selling in the open forums.


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## svk

RDA1 said:


> Far from it, I have it, I am more than happy to pass it on but I would need to be told who to pass it on to.
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/46925-22.htm#post2831509
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Rich



While watching reruns of South Beach Tow between football games I read this whole thread. Can't say I'm any wiser but it was entertaining.

The pass around LA was last seen in 2011 with member RDA1. He hasn't logged in since 9/6/11. Only had 3 posts total so not sure how he got ahold of it. Anybody know this guy personally? He's not even on the user list so no way to send a PM. 

@Finland as a fellow businessman I would suggest you consider becoming a site sponsor and actively participating in discussions. You could then openly promote your product and may get some "goodwill" sales to boot.


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## Finland

stihl sawing said:


> No I did cause he is a non sponsor selling in the open forums.



I do not understand your motives. Why do you remove my writings continuously. I have sponsored one Leveraxe to your community. I have used a lot of time with you teaching you to use this totally new tool. What is wrong with that? I have never said , buy this tool. This is the first this kind of tool, using leverage. The friction is nearly non existent. The leverage multiplies the splitting force many times bigger. I do not see any harm in it, if people get to know also about this safe alternative. I am still willing to continue dialogue with you all, but how can I do it if my writings are deleted. During the 9 years existent there has happened NO ACCIDENT with the Leveraxe.
Could you please tell me what do you want me to do to enable continuity to fair and open conversation. The world is not any more flat, but it is not ready either.


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## Finland

Finland said:


> I do not understand your motives. Why do you remove my writings continuously. I have sponsored one Leveraxe to your community. I have used a lot of time with you teaching you to use this totally new tool. What is wrong with that? I have never said , buy this tool. This is the first this kind of tool, using leverage. The friction is nearly non existent. The leverage multiplies the splitting force many times bigger. I do not see any harm in it, if people get to know also about this safe alternative. I am still willing to continue dialogue with you all, but how can I do it if my writings are deleted. During the 9 years existent there has happened NO ACCIDENT with the Leveraxe.
> Could you please tell me what do you want me to do to enable continuity to fair and open conversation. The world is not any more flat, but it is not ready either.


Forgot to say. 
Could you answer here, so that the other writers know as well how to sponsor if needed and in what cases. What is allowed to mention, brand name..something else. Where is the line where the advertising goes? Thank you.


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## stihl sawing

Finland said:


> I do not understand your motives. Why do you remove my writings continuously. I have sponsored one Leveraxe to your community. I have used a lot of time with you teaching you to use this totally new tool. What is wrong with that? I have never said , buy this tool. This is the first this kind of tool, using leverage. The friction is nearly non existent. The leverage multiplies the splitting force many times bigger. I do not see any harm in it, if people get to know also about this safe alternative. I am still willing to continue dialogue with you all, but how can I do it if my writings are deleted. During the 9 years existent there has happened NO ACCIDENT with the Leveraxe.
> Could you please tell me what do you want me to do to enable continuity to fair and open conversation. The world is not any more flat, but it is not ready either.


You're selling in this post here, We have sponsors here that sell axes and they pay to do it, why should we let you sell here for nothing. It's not fair to the ones that do. If you want to make post like this then become a sponsor. Contact the site owners. But until you do you cannot sell in the open forums. That is a site rule and if you read the rules you would see. One more sales post and I'm locking or deleting this thread. Far as teaching us to use it, I know of no one here that has one so you're wasting your time there.


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## 5foot20

Hello all, new to the forum and wanted to provide my experience on the leveraxe for general knowledge. Last month, I ordered a leveraxe and finally had an opportunity to review it last weekend. Some up but mostly downs on this product. This unit was shipped brand new and was in perfect condition when it arrived. After reading the instructions, I gave it a try. I placed 6 small logs in an old tire and began chopping slowly to get the hand of the lever concept. The first round went slow but by the end, I had the hang of it. Excited to do this again, I reloaded the tire and began chopping. On the 8th log, a 4" piece of the wooden handle came flying off the TOP! This really surprised me and I stopped using the axe and inspected if I somehow damaged it unknowingly. The handle was clean with no errant strikes and ended my day much sooner than expected for obvious safety reasons.. I then reached out to a US representative of Leveraxe ([email protected]) and he directed me to a website to have the handle replaced for $70. No warranty on the handle? After 30 days and 20 minutes of actual use?

I cannot in good faith recommend this product to anyone with customer service like this. The company should stand behind normal use within a fair and reasonable amount of time for any product regardless of its price. Save your money and invest in something else. Very, very disappointing.


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## svk

Welcome to the site. 

I am curious, did you get this from the "Kickstarter" campaign they recently did or did you buy it retail?

Also if you could post some pictures here perhaps we can see if Leveraxe might be interested in helping you further.


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## Jim Timber

So leveraxe has been around for what, 9 years now? And they're resorting to crowd funding in the US?

Then they have QC problems to boot, and their solution is spend more than a new Fiskars for repair? 

You guys obviously need a change in tactics or price points. Us "dumb Americans" buy cheap junk and aren't surprised when it breaks. You guys are at a premium (and then some) price point, and have less warranty than Horrible Freight on their "might catch fire on first contact with an outlet" electronics. They'll still take it back in 45 days.

5foot20, welcome to the site! If you bought it through Amazon, they'll likely give you a refund if it hasn't been too long. Hopefully someone with leveraxe will step up. $250 is a lot of cash to dump on 20 minutes of wood.


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## 5foot20

5foot20 said:


> Hello all, new to the forum and wanted to provide my experience on the leveraxe for general knowledge. Last month, I ordered a leveraxe and finally had an opportunity to review it last weekend. Some up but mostly downs on this product. This unit was shipped brand new and was in perfect condition when it arrived. After reading the instructions, I gave it a try. I placed 6 small logs in an old tire and began chopping slowly to get the hand of the lever concept. The first round went slow but by the end, I had the hang of it. Excited to do this again, I reloaded the tire and began chopping. On the 8th log, a 4" piece of the wooden handle came flying off the TOP! This really surprised me and I stopped using the axe and inspected if I somehow damaged it unknowingly. The handle was clean with no errant strikes and ended my day much sooner than expected for obvious safety reasons.. I then reached out to a US representative of Leveraxe ([email protected]) and he directed me to a website to have the handle replaced for $70. No warranty on the handle? After 30 days and 20 minutes of actual use?
> 
> I cannot in good faith recommend this product to anyone with customer service like this. The company should stand behind normal use within a fair and reasonable amount of time for any product regardless of its price. Save your money and invest in something else. Very, very disappointing.



As a follow up, I have attached a picture of the axe handle.


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## 5foot20

svk said:


> Welcome to the site.
> 
> I am curious, did you get this from the "Kickstarter" campaign they recently did or did you buy it retail?
> 
> Also if you could post some pictures here perhaps we can see if Leveraxe might be interested in helping you further.


SVK, I purchased it retail. I missed the Kickstarter campaign by 3 days.


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## svk

5foot20 said:


> As a follow up, I have attached a picture of the axe handle.


If that is it, I'd sand it smooth and continue to use.


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## zogger

svk said:


> If that is it, I'd sand it smooth and continue to use.



The broken off piece could be glued on first as well, using a few clamps.


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## svk

zogger said:


> The broken off piece could be glued on first as well, using a few clamps.


Yep. Some kind of flexible wood glue, then sand it to make sure there aren't any sharp edges.


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## ArcticOverland

5foot20 said:


> SVK, I purchased it retail. I missed the Kickstarter campaign by 3 days.



Email your concern directly to info(at)vipukirves.fi including a photograph. 

Are you in St. Peterberg in Russia, 5foot20? Or in the USA?

I have no affiliation with the manufacturer. They are Finnish, so they will do the right thing. Let them know, even if the response from the international agent has been disappointing.

If the guys here in Finland don't hear about the problem, they won't know it needs to be fixed. Check in with them and see what they say. Finns are very determined to do the right thing, and this will almost certainly be the result in this case also.

Jim Timber, they may be in business for 9 years but the USA is a massively intimidating market to break into for a small, and I mean small company in a small regional town in a country in the north eastern corner of western europe, bordered by the Arctic and Russia and separated by sea from mainland Europe. Logistically, culturally, financially, they're worlds apart in many ways. The sheer investment required to take a somewhat niche market product to the USA is beyond the abilities of many such firms, so Kickstarter campaign funding provides a way to enable a business try to bring a local presence to the USA. I know from the business I'm involved in here myself. 

I suspect in any case that the response 5foot20 had is from an agent/distributor (licensed by Vipukirves) and not from the guys in Raisio in Finland and that making contact with them will see a positive outcome and identify where there is room for improvement.

Finally, the price you pay in US$ is pretty much the same as what we pay locally for the same tool. So at least we're all dancing to the same tune!


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## Jim Timber

As a little guy myself, I'm always rooting for them in business. If the customer is taken care of when the product has obviously failed, then I wish them the best.


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## Giorgio

Hi,

New member. First post. English is not my mother language. Excuse for poor writing...

This "wonderfull" product seems not that new. Look at that:* http://www.google.ca/patents/US4300606 
*
But is seems interesting anyhow when used properly. Didn't try it myself but it is from reading a good part of the thread.


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## Finland

Giorgio said:


> Hi,
> 
> New member. First post. English is not my mother language. Excuse for poor writing...
> 
> This "wonderfull" product seems not that new. Look at that:* http://www.google.ca/patents/US4300606
> *
> But is seems interesting anyhow when used properly. Didn't try it myself but it is from reading a good part of the thread.





Giorgio said:


> Hi,
> 
> Have you ever anywhere seen that kind of an axe in the shops available for anybody interested to purchase it. I haven't seen it either. It never came to industrial production. It hasn't got any safety elements either as the original Vipukirves/Leveraxe. So many people has reminded me about that American patent, but if you read carefully enough, you will find it mentioned in in my patent to which it refers. Further more my patent talks about the safety features which have never seen in any kind of axes after the stone age. Car has had four wheels as long as it was invented. Every now and then there have been some changes and that is why also some of them are patented.


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