# How do you keep cut straight/level when cutting stumps?



## NebClimber (Nov 10, 2004)

When cutting large stumps I always seem to end up cutting at a downward angle, even though my intention is to cut straight thru. As a result, my bar ends up in the dirt toward the end of the cut. 

I suspect I tend to drift my cuts at a downward angle becaue the weight of the saw/gravity orient my saw in that direction.

Is there a simple trick to keeping the cut straight? 

Steven


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## MasterBlaster (Nov 10, 2004)

The longer the bar, the more important it is that all the cutters and drags are _exactly_ the same.

Also, how you push on the handle will affect your cut.


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## BigJohn (Nov 10, 2004)

I have to agree with Butch on how important a sharp and true chain is on a large bar. Also you want to check the wear on the bar and the bottom of the chain on the drivers, then check for wear on sprocket. If all this checks out then work on technique.

I am pretty good with makeing big cut and flush cuts. I personally like to eye up the stump. Find the high side and start there. You can line the saw up on two axis. Alot of it is feel. Try and make your cut as if you were cutting a horrizontal log. Try not to lean on the handle and pull straight back on it. Don't just go cutting, think about what is happening and imagine where the tip of that bar is. Slow down and just think about it.


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## MasterBlaster (Nov 10, 2004)

Oh, and a wire edge on yur bar will frig you up, also. You should check it and dress it every time you remove the chain.


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## rmihalek (Nov 10, 2004)

*bubble level*

What about some sort of bubble level on the saw? My cordless drills have bubble levels on the back of the motor housing, so when I'm drilling I can look down at the level to help keep the drill plumb. 

Maybe you could get two bubble levels, put your saw on its side and put a bubble level on the bar, then get some adhesive and mount another bubble level on the pull-starter housing so that they both read level. If the bubble level can survive the vibration and wear and tear that a work saw gets, you may be able to get real-time feedback on how level your cuts are.


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## Brock2saws (Nov 10, 2004)

*bubble level*

I thought of that too. But then, a chainsaw has a bit of vibration. Maybe a bubble suspended in oil? I dunno.

BAB


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## Brock2saws (Nov 10, 2004)

Sorry Bob, you already mentioned the vibration. I guess I should read more closely if I'm going to reply.

Anyway, if it has to be "just perfect," I trace the cut with my handsaw.

It all really just comes down to practice.

Cheers,
BAB


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## arboromega (Nov 10, 2004)

plunge cut the thing ( another reminder of how dangerous this cut is to the untrained) a plunge cut will keep it flat everytime if done right.


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## alanarbor (Nov 10, 2004)

Also if you're using a really long bar 42"+ it can actually flex when the powerhead is level, and the cut will be off, sometimes starting a kerf with a shorter bar will help getting the big one off on an even keel.

As mentioned before, the chain needs to be evenly sharp, and the bar needs to be free of burrs, or that saw won't cut straight no matter how hard you try.


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## ROLLACOSTA (Nov 10, 2004)

i recomend smoking only one reefer..during your lunch break instead of 2


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## Ax-man (Nov 10, 2004)

As mentioned before, 95% is how well the saw is is sharpened.

Oversized dogs can help hold a big saw, the saw can be manupulated a little up or down with the handle while it is cutting, I think BJ mentioned this, it is just a matter of feel. After a while you can tell when the saw is going to cut off a little and compensate for it.

Larry


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## Derek (Nov 10, 2004)

*Been busy*

Hi guys, if I had more time I would "qutoe" lots on yet another exelent thread...You all have great imput ...

I for one had a "shocker" with my 42' bar on my (std) 088..
just the other week, (caught on film to)

Got to post a couple of shots in a row, (a), of the topic , me and my saw in trouble, and a bit of an update of where im at on my own...(and somtimes partner)...

I have tried all sorts of "bubbels" from caravan fridge type circles to industral levels, they all vibrate to "foam" for the lack of a better term.

The key is placement and of course sharpness, LAZIENESS was my down fall on this occaision..

Firstly the simple task shot...Had to come till some lightning passed, I took a lot more of the tree down before I dropped it on the road ...Back in a sec..Derek..


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## Derek (Nov 10, 2004)

*lazy?*

Ok the problem started with me not getting another saw to cut off the "lump" in my way to start with, 

Full of termites and the dirt they bring up with them( are they good for trees?), I all but stuffed one side of my perfictly sharpened chain, to lazey to "knock off the little burs" I kept going.

You can allmost see the bar flexing in this shot......

It shows the hole in the second stump...

The next shot is realy bad..


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## Matt Follett (Nov 10, 2004)

Neb, 

First, all of the above...

But a question next, which way are you headed down? Looking at the cut with the stump in from of you, does it just slope down to the left, or does it slope down away from you?, or both.

Each saw of course has its own balance points, and correct bar lengths to be "balanced".

Lets assume you have a sharp and true chain and bar, and the bar is not over or undersized for the saw....

pick up the saw and hold it by the front handle so it lays sideways, like you're going to start a cut, now hold it with one hand (left) and play with where you hand sits on the handle to keep the bar level (even throw a carpenters level on the bar) by moving you hand back and forth on the handle you'll change the "angle of attack" get it set so it's level then imagine dogging the saw and manipulate the rear handle to swing the bar. Concentrate on what your left wrist is doing to ensure the bar stays level. Muscle memory that motion (repeat repeat repeat.) This part is really only needed for the first few seconds, but these are the most important, once the cut is set... it's set and you pretty much have to live with it, minor adjustments can be made, but they are minor. 

Now on the next cut spend a few seconds balancing the bar out and remembering how to pivot the saw at the head without effecting the angle of the bar.

If the cut slopes down away from you after that, you're lifting the power head too much while you cut.. if it slopes down left, you twisting the saw (heaven forbid I said this next part!), don't use your left hand, only dog the saw and pivot it with you right hand keeping you fingures off the front handle, and let the saw do the work...

That's all I can suggest for now, with info given.


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## MasterBlaster (Nov 10, 2004)

*Good post, Matt!*

Tiny underbed there, Derek!


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## Derek (Nov 10, 2004)

*Paperwork*

Hi matt i see we were typing at the same time!

Slow fingers here ...To show of my worst work in ages the story continues.....

This shot shows the Bad footwork (positioning) and nowhere near enough levvellness, I had a second go... just as bad...

Major point is dident need that bar for one...(ended up dropping it with the Jonsered 625 (50cm bar)..

After so many times up and down that bloody tree cause of the weather, pretty stuffed, but I spose the Tenniss elbow and still recovering forarm pull combined , i shouldent of used somthing I dident have full strenght to use effitivily...

Chain was stuffed on one side too...My advise is "PULL OUT" if you dont get it right by the first bar width...

heres the shocker...


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## Ugly Kid Joe (Nov 10, 2004)

IS The Motor Head Up Or Down ,With The Motor Head Up IT Hard To Hold On Side Of The Tree, With The Motorhead Down It Easy To Dawg In To The Tree Start Slow Unit The Bar Is Half Way In The Tree Than Give IT All She Got.


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## Derek (Nov 10, 2004)

*tiny to start*

Granted MB it is allways small around here to start with...

Can't trust the termites havent eaten a huge hole in the middel, sounding doesent allways work on bigger yellow box around here.. And ther goes youre holding wood..


It went just fine with the Jonno (way to cheap Aussie), and full of bugs as i thought..

This is Paul he was Cheif "groundie cum braffic controller cum loader driver...he and his boys did a AWSOMEJOB! cleaned it all up real well..And thanks for putting it in my back yard..Ill still rip of a few peices for you guys....(but not severn of you! lol.)


Nice to be working from HOME again!! But ill need another 3 trees worth of paper, before i can get out of the door...Lots of red tape in the trees around here?.."gottogo theres forms to sign everywhere" HA might have to be my new sig!!.....cyas Derek..

Ya famous now....PAUL...


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