# Starting saws



## Ponytail666 (Feb 17, 2022)

Hey guys, 20yrs working in trees, now training chainsaw & arboreal qualifications.
Why is it my students are unable to start a Husqvarna 550xp mk2, but they cab start a stihl 400c & 500i?
Leg & ground starts. At each cutting technique we talk, start saws, cut, stop, review. They can start big Stihls all afternoon, 2.5-3hr prac but cannot get any of the 550xps running?


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## Fatherwheels (Feb 17, 2022)

Some saws can be difficult to start, maybe your 550 is one of them,
sometimes a technique is discovered that works best, even if its not
in the manual.
Maybe too its the stopping of the 550 that is causing the trouble,
stop after a full throttle cut, and the saw will be flooded when you try to start it again, these saws need time to register that you are idling, if the last thing in memory is a full throttle setting when it should be idle setting, then it will be difficult to start.
I do not have MT or AT saws, but I here there can be quite a bit of trouble with the 550 older model, is it one of those.


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## Ponytail666 (Feb 17, 2022)

Motherboard said:


> Some saws can be difficult to start, maybe your 550 is one of them,
> sometimes a technique is discovered that works best, even if its not
> in the manual.
> Maybe too its the stopping of the 550 that is causing the trouble,
> ...


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## Ponytail666 (Feb 17, 2022)

550xp mk2 purchased mid 2020.
The main concern is that we have 6 of them, all 6 behave the same, & at the same time we use stihl 400c & 500i purchased in October 2020.
They are used side by side in every class, but we end up giving up on thr 550's


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## ElevatorGuy (Feb 17, 2022)

Problem: Husky 550
Solution: Stihl 261


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## Ponytail666 (Feb 17, 2022)

ElevatorGuy said:


> Problem: Husky 550
> Solution: Stihl 261


We already train with Stihl 400C & 500i. I'm trying to find a way to actually use the husky saws.


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## Ponytail666 (Feb 17, 2022)

Also, practical is: leg start, off; ground start, off; 1 at a time we demo a cross cut technique then students start saws, cut 5x cuts for each technique saws idle, off. 1 of that for each of top bind, bottom bind, boar cut vertical, boar cut horizontal, cutting & rolling over/wedges.
All on same fuel mix, 50:1 mixed with students for the class. Then they get to go to town with left over timber for the rest of the afternoon. With all saws I have turned them off at full revs when a student is holding/using dangerously, they have all been turned off after idling various times. If I turn off a Stihl at full revs while cutting I can start it again 1-2pulls. We have Stihl, Husqvarna, echo. All used side by side. The 3120's are fine but the 550xp mk2 is not


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## Fatherwheels (Feb 17, 2022)

ElevatorGuy said:


> Problem: Husky 550
> Solution: Stihl 261


I had a hard time not saying this. Was thinking a Stihl clutch and bar
conversion would be a start.


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## Fatherwheels (Feb 17, 2022)

Ponytail666 said:


> Also, practical is: leg start, off; ground start, off; 1 at a time we demo a cross cut technique then students start saws, cut 5x cuts for each technique saws idle, off. 1 of that for each of top bind, bottom bind, boar cut vertical, boar cut horizontal, cutting & rolling over/wedges.
> All on same fuel mix, 50:1 mixed with students for the class. Then they get to go to town with left over timber for the rest of the afternoon. With all saws I have turned them off at full revs when a student is holding/using dangerously, they have all been turned off after idling various times. If I turn off a Stihl at full revs while cutting I can start it again 1-2pulls. We have Stihl, Husqvarna, echo. All used side by side. The 3120's are fine but the 550xp mk2 is not


If its under warranty take it back, a saw should start when you need it, am assuming its not vapor locked or heat issues.
I bet the Echo saws start.


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## ElevatorGuy (Feb 17, 2022)

Ponytail666 said:


> We already train with Stihl 400C & 500i. I'm trying to find a way to actually use the husky saws.


I get it, You’re just preparing the class for the disappointment of a husky. They won’t buy saws that can’t be used. Win win really.


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## TheJollyLogger (Feb 17, 2022)

Once they get out in the field, they will learn no one really starts their saws that way anyway, shouldn't be a problem...


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## The Shooters Apprentice (Feb 17, 2022)

Is it just the students who have problems with it?

also, I wouldn’t even waste my time teaching ground starts. Teach them how to start a saw like a man, hanging onto the throttle with one hand holding it wide open, while shoving the saw away from you and yanking the cord with the other hand.


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## Drifter2406 (Feb 17, 2022)

My 881 is like that, sometimes it will start from cold with two or three pulls and one when it's warm but other times it's a real pain from cold.


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## ClimberBusinessman (Feb 17, 2022)

You'll probably want to buy an Echo or stick with your Stihl's. Husqvarnas are Chinese-made junk in my opinion. At least with Echo you're getting a Japanese made saw, or with Stihl, you're getting a German saw (although with a Chinese carb). You might look into tuning the H, L, and T screws on the carb, which can influence starting ability.


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## TheJollyLogger (Feb 17, 2022)

ClimberBusinessman said:


> You'll probably want to buy an Echo or stick with your Stihl's. Husqvarnas are Chinese-made junk in my opinion. At least with Echo you're getting a Japanese made saw, or with Stihl, you're getting a German saw (although with a Chinese carb). You might look into tuning the H, L, and T screws on the carb, which can influence starting ability.


They are 550xp's bro.


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## cookies (Feb 17, 2022)

The next time one will not start simply remove the plug and inspect it. Is it dry? is it wet? Have you tried idling the saws for 5 minutes then shutting them down to allow cooling? Or tried shutting them down using the choke? It amazes me that places spend thousands of dollars on equipment but lack the ability to have it repaired or inspected but instead throw it in the corner to complain about or leave it in the back of a truck year round until its ruined.


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## TRTermite (Feb 17, 2022)

The Shooters Apprentice said:


> Is it just the students who have problems with it?
> 
> also, I wouldn’t even waste my time teaching ground starts. Teach them how to start a saw like a man, hanging onto the throttle with one hand holding it wide open, while shoving the saw away from you and yanking the cord with the other hand.


Throttle Lock and drop/throw saw with left hand while holding rope handle with right hand. Hard to hold throttle wide open on a 056 Magnum ll like you mentioned. No compression release, 160 lbs. compression and a bit heavy with close to 100 CCs' Younger days I skoffed at comp release but nowadays I use 'em if they have 'em ...
I have seen starter rope thimbles cut through if the cord is unduly flexed sideways and not straight in line. Have a Poulan 315 that I don;t throw start 'cuz of the recoil/rope angle.


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## ElevatorGuy (Feb 17, 2022)

ClimberBusinessman said:


> You'll probably want to buy an Echo or stick with your Stihl's. Husqvarnas are Chinese-made junk in my opinion. At least with Echo you're getting a Japanese made saw, or with Stihl, you're getting a German saw (although with a Chinese carb). You might look into tuning the H, L, and T screws on the carb, which can influence starting ability.


They’re not Chinese made but I hear you can get rebuild kits at IKEA. The 550 is an AT saw so no adjustments. I’m with ya on the junk statement, Just read through the forums.


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## ericm979 (Feb 17, 2022)

My M-tronic saws like to be idled for at least 5 seconds after making cuts before shutting down. If I forget they flood when I go to start them back up. Maybe the Auto tune saws have the same problem. 

I agree with teaching safe ways to start saws.


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## Fatherwheels (Feb 17, 2022)

Are these 5 non starting saws stored anywhere different than the Stihl and Echo saws. Like in a warmer place, expansion sending fuel into cylinder for example.
As mentioned, take out the plug and look, look too that no one put bar oil in the fuel tank and eventually tipped it out leaving the filter clogged to starvation.


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## TheJollyLogger (Feb 17, 2022)

Honestly, need some more info from the OP. Is it just hot starts that are causing the problem, or cold starts too? What choke starting procedures are you using?


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## SweetMK (Feb 17, 2022)

I bought a 3 cu in Jonsered in 1982,, that saw was perfect in winter.
BUT, if you ran it in the summer,, shut it off,, sometimes it would boil the fuel tank EMPTY!!
Part of that fuel just dumped, but, it seemed that some of that heated fuel flooded the engine.
Forget starting that saw for 2 hours.

The guy that sold it to me told me I had to idle the saw for a lot longer than you would imagine to cool the saw before shutdown.
THAT fixed the heated fuel problem.

The dealers story was that the saw was designed to run in a colder climate than Virginia,, hence, the saw heated itself,, on purpose!!

Maybe the Husky is designed for colder operation?
Could it be like the Stihl, and have a "Winter Air Diverter" that is installed in the wrong direction??


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## [email protected] (Feb 18, 2022)

I own a Husqvarna 550 Mk1. I usually cold starts fine and runs very well. It can be a little difficult to restart when hot, however, try one pull on choke and the put the choke lever on high idle, just below the choke position. Usually works for me. Also, be sure to idle for a minute or so to cool down after a hard run to help cool down, and do not run out of fuel. Better to refuel at 3/4 empty rather than just about out. These are very good saws. You just need to learn their quirks.

Jon


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## TRTermite (Feb 18, 2022)

SweetMK said:


> I bought a 3 cu in Jonsered in 1982,, that saw was perfect in winter.
> BUT, if you ran it in the summer,, shut it off,, sometimes it would boil the fuel tank EMPTY!!
> Part of that fuel just dumped, but, it seemed that some of that heated fuel flooded the engine.
> Forget starting that saw for 2 hours.
> ...


Me THINKS yer dealer was blowin' Hot air up yer BLOOMERS. You should have SMACKED THE SCHeeT out of him and asked for a refund. My DAD had a new McCullough like that and couldn't give it away..
Lou Haverkamp (the Gambes store dealer/owner) never made it right.


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## SweetMK (Feb 18, 2022)

TRTermite said:


> Me THINKS yer dealer was blowin' Hot air up yer BLOOMERS. You should have SMACKED THE SCHeeT out of him and asked for a refund. My DAD had a new McCullough like that and couldn't give it away..
> Lou Haverkamp (the Gambes store dealer/owner) never made it right.


Possibly, and probably,, but, it was a WAY superior answer compared to a shrug of the shoulders.
Possibly, the story was just a way to get the extended cool-down to stick in your head?? 
That Jonsered was my favorite all time saw,, until my SIL took it for a ride in the bucket of a JD 855,, that was the end of it.
The saw was 35 years old,, I had enjoyed it,, and I can not fault my SIL,, 
*"Never lend a chainsaw that you can not afford to loose"*

My Stihl 029 Super never revved as high as the Jonsered,, the chain speed is the reason I liked the Jonsered. 
The ONLY complaint I ever had with the saw was the heated gas on shut off.
I would imagine there is some other saw with a metal gas tank,, somewhere.??


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## Brushwacker (Feb 18, 2022)

I have had my mkII 550xp few weeks about . Cold I prime it 4 or 5 times, takes 4 or 5 pulls usually to get a pop and pretty near 5 pulls after to get it to stay running. The part throttle position works like it almost doesn't have one. If it worked like most normal saws i think it would start much better. Was expecting it to start very well when i saw it had a primer bulb. Thankfully it isn't extremely rough or hard pull to turn over the engine .
Warm starts on this saw haven't impressed me yet either. Hopefully it will get better as I get to know the saw or make some easy adjustments. Letting it idle 5 minutes before shutting it off every time is out of the question. I think if i can adjust part throttle up it would start better. Min


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## Fatherwheels (Feb 18, 2022)

Brushwacker said:


> I have had my mkII 550xp few weeks about . Cold I prime it 4 or 5 times, takes 4 or 5 pulls usually to get a pop and pretty near 5 pulls after to get it to stay running. The part throttle position works like it almost doesn't have one. If it worked like most normal saws i think it would start much better. Was expecting it to start very well when i saw it had a primer bulb. Thankfully it isn't extremely rough or hard pull to turn over the engine .
> Warm starts on this saw haven't impressed me yet either. Hopefully it will get better as I get to know the saw or make some easy adjustments. Letting it idle 5 minutes before shutting it off every time is out of the question. I think if i can adjust part throttle up it would start better. Min


Sadly all saws even of the same model are not the same, you get ones that
are for whatever reason easy to start and work without fault.
I bought a new MS362 two years ago, I sold it two days later, way too much
pulling to get it to start, and I had no intention of playing games with the Stihl dealer, a new saw hard to start, no way, your doing something wrong, the computer says its perfect, I cut my losses and got rid of it,
I won't be arguing with computers in saws, less they be open source where we can fix them ourselves.


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## Maintenance supervisor (Feb 18, 2022)

We bought 550s for our facilities ONCE , never again absolutely the worst consistent starters for beginners and in general. 
I personally own some Husqvarna's and like them but I'd put the 550 in the same category as a mini mac. You couldn't give me one.


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## hkstwn7 (Feb 18, 2022)

The new operator and the instructor must follow the starting instructions. My 550 has been a very good saw 
It allows me to cut more wood than any other saw I own as it is very lightweight and powerful.


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## Maintenance supervisor (Feb 18, 2022)

I wish there was a dislike button?


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## thenne1713 (Feb 18, 2022)

Brushwacker said:


> I have had my mkII 550xp few weeks about . Cold I prime it 4 or 5 times, takes 4 or 5 pulls usually to get a pop and pretty near 5 pulls after to get it to stay running. The part throttle position works like it almost doesn't have one. If it worked like most normal saws i think it would start much better. Was expecting it to start very well when i saw it had a primer bulb. Thankfully it isn't extremely rough or hard pull to turn over the engine .
> Warm starts on this saw haven't impressed me yet either. Hopefully it will get better as I get to know the saw or make some easy adjustments. Letting it idle 5 minutes before shutting it off every time is out of the question. I think if i can adjust part throttle up it would start better. Min


BUSHWACKER< you do not mention PROCEDURE, so let me outline and you respond? (Mine a 570xp, works well, consistently). 1) COLD you pull choke OUT, crank 2-3 (OR until pop), push choke back in and it starts next pull. 2) HOT= Pull choke out, then push BACK IN (to cock the FAST Idle), then pull and it starts. If your FAST idle= too slow, then turn screw in 1/2-turn and try, if not enough, add another 1/2-turn?


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## oldbuzzard (Feb 18, 2022)

Ponytail666 said:


> 550xp mk2 purchased mid 2020.TS
> The main concern is that we have 6 of them, all 6 behave the same, & at the same time we use stihl 400c & 500i purchased in October 2020.
> They are used side by side in every class, but we end up giving up on thr 550's


It would be helpful to know more about your specific operating circumstances such as altitude, air temp, etc. I have owned owned two new 550Xp Mk2s and there are a couple of things I experienced. Trying to start “by the book” wouldn’t always work, but once you learned the necessary technique you could start them easily and consistently.
When cold, try starting them WITHOUT choking them and WITHOUT using the primer bulb. Once they are warm every Husky Autotune saw I’ve owned would consistently start in the “hot start” position - choke lever down then back up to put the carb in part throttle position.
Letting them idle to cool down has never made any difference. I HAVE experienced very hard restart if you let them idle out of gas. I definitely avoid that.
BTW, I own LOTS of 50 & 60cc saws, Husky, Stihl, Echo, Mtronic, Autotune, etc. I do volunteer work and frequently I too give instruction to low time or no time sawyers. I buy non running saws off eBay, get them running, and give them away to other volunteers. My favorites are Husky 550s and Stihl 261Cs, both excellent saws. I will admit that I think the Husky Autotune can be a little more quirky to learn but once mastered they are every bit as reliable and, IMHO, more ergonomic saws to work with than Stihl.


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## Brufab (Feb 18, 2022)

The Shooters Apprentice said:


> Is it just the students who have problems with it?
> 
> also, I wouldn’t even waste my time teaching ground starts. Teach them how to start a saw like a man, hanging onto the throttle with one hand holding it wide open, while shoving the saw away from you and yanking the cord with the other hand.


I thought starting like that was frowned upon except for top handle saws, or a climber in a tree.


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## TheJollyLogger (Feb 18, 2022)

Brufab said:


> I thought starting like that was frowned upon except for top handle saws, or a climber in a tree.


Only by insurance companies and lawyers...


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## Brufab (Feb 18, 2022)

TheJollyLogger said:


> Only by insurance companies and lawyers...


I guess I'm not in the super pro class of loggers yet.


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## TheJollyLogger (Feb 18, 2022)

Brufab said:


> I guess I'm not in the super pro class of loggers yet.


You have to know the rules to break the rules, and understand when breaking one is actually safer, to be sure. I guess once you get used to drop starting in the tree, it becomes second nature to do it on the ground, too. I definitely agree a ground start, especially for novices is much safer.


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## SweetMK (Feb 18, 2022)

Brufab said:


> I thought starting like that was frowned upon except for top handle saws, or a climber in a tree.


I had not run my MS660 Magnum in at least five years,, 
Today, I dumped the 1/2 tank of old gas refilled the fuel tank,, filled the oil tank,, dribbled about 1/4 teaspoon into the carb,,
and, by that time, I was too tired to bend over so I did the ;
*"start a saw like a man, hanging onto the throttle with one hand holding it wide open, while shoving the saw away from you and yanking the cord with the other hand."*
I was expecting it to take a number of pulls,, but, it started on the first pull!!
It did stall after 15 seconds, so I again I /4 teaspoon primed it ,, twice more,, then it kept running. 
Probably, only 8 or 10 pulls total.
I did not hang onto the throttle, I was holding the wrap bar,, it balanced better like that.
If I knew it would start that easy, I might have set it on the ground,, I could have bent over for 10 pulls.,,, LOL!!


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## Brufab (Feb 18, 2022)

I start my 40cc saw like that but anything bigger I do the ground technique, my cs-400 almost starts just by touching the recoil. I'm only 5'4 so the drop technique is alil risky on bigger saws especially this one. If you can drop start this your a [email protected] for sure. Do you have the chain brake on when drop starting?


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## Brushwacker (Feb 19, 2022)

thenne1713 said:


> BUSHWACKER< you do not mention PROCEDURE, so let me outline and you respond? (Mine a 570xp, works well, consistently). 1) COLD you pull choke OUT, crank 2-3 (OR until pop), push choke back in and it starts next pull. 2) HOT= Pull choke out, then push BACK IN (to cock the FAST Idle), then pull and it starts. If your FAST idle= too slow, then turn screw in 1/2-turn and try, if not enough, add another 1/2-turn?


Of course I choke it until i get a pop which is usually 4 or 5 pulls, then I push the switch lever down where I assume is fast idle and it's usually 4 or 5 more pulls to get it to hit and stay running. When it starts fast idle doesn't feel much different then idle. Don't recall messing with fast idles much in the past, but i need to adjust this 1 I believe.


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## Brushwacker (Feb 19, 2022)

Brufab said:


> I start my 40cc saw like that but anything bigger I do the ground technique, my cs-400 almost starts just by touching the recoil. I'm only 5'4 so the drop technique is alil risky on bigger saws especially this one. If you can drop start this your a [email protected] for sure. Do you have the chain brake on when drop starting?View attachment 966190


Should have the chain brake on when starting a saw in all positions i believe .
Can get a faster pull drop starting. I push the saw away from me some as I pull the starter rope toward me.
I think owners manual warn against drop starting.


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## SweetMK (Feb 19, 2022)

Brufab said:


> I start my 40cc saw like that but anything bigger I do the ground technique, my cs-400 almost starts just by touching the recoil. I'm only 5'4 so the drop technique is alil risky on bigger saws especially this one. If you can drop start this your a [email protected] for sure. Do you have the chain brake on when drop starting?View attachment 966190


ARE YOU POSITIVE that saw is not a two-man saw that someone broke off the buddy handle??  

My friend in Pittsburgh had a grandfather that we used to go visit,, 
He had a two-man saw,, the bar was shorter than that one.

I am 6'7",, so, my difficulty is that the ground is a L O N G way down,, 
My arm strength works almost as good as ever, but, at 72 years old,, my back is not as happy as when I was 50,,,.

I have spent the last 5 years learning how to do lot of things without bending over as much.

Part of this woodcutting that I have been doing is for maintaining as much body strength as possible.
MANY guys I went to school with do not think activity beyond walking the dog for 15 minutes twice a day is necessary.
I spent 1 1/2 hours swinging a brush axe yesterday.. almost no bending over, but, LOTS of exercise.

OH, and as far as drop starting that saw,, I would not drop start any saw without a chain brake...
BUT, that is a great looking saw,, !!


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## chipper1 (Feb 19, 2022)

I like my late model 550mk1's, always have.

And the 550mk2's I've had.


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## chipper1 (Feb 19, 2022)

Brushwacker said:


> Of course I choke it until i get a pop which is usually 4 or 5 pulls, then I push the switch lever down where I assume is fast idle and it's usually 4 or 5 more pulls to get it to hit and stay running. When it starts fast idle doesn't feel much different then idle. Don't recall messing with fast idles much in the past, but i need to adjust this 1 I believe.


Wanna sell it .


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## Brufab (Feb 19, 2022)

chipper1 said:


> I like my late model 550mk1's, always have.
> 
> And the 550mk2's I've had.



Black locust slayer!!!


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## chipper1 (Feb 19, 2022)

Brufab said:


> Black locust slayer!!!


Yep.
Burning a nice sized round of previously dead standing BL right now, with a bunch of 2-3" sticks around it, I hear the pipe just starting to cool, the temp gauge on the stove itself shows 575 and it will stay there for a couple hrs  .


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## SweetMK (Feb 19, 2022)

Brufab said:


> Black locust slayer!!!


I would bet that 2 or 3 inch thick disks of that wood could be used as garden path walking steps,,
much like the concrete stepping stones.

Only, the locust will last longer than the concrete,,!!

My older neighbor used to go nuts when I would burn locust for firewood,,
He thought that locust should only be used for fence posts.

I still have many fence posts that guy placed in our fence before 1979,,,


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## The Shooters Apprentice (Feb 19, 2022)

I was mostly joking about throw starting, however I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone ground start a saw.


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## grizz55chev (Feb 19, 2022)

The Shooters Apprentice said:


> I was mostly joking about throw starting, however I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone ground start a saw.


My sons 288 Husky is best started on the ground, no comp release, 32" bar. I drop start all my saws, ms 440 mag, 064 , etc.


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## chipper1 (Feb 19, 2022)

The Shooters Apprentice said:


> I was mostly joking about throw starting, however I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone ground start a saw.




Cant say that anymore .


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## chipper1 (Feb 19, 2022)

SweetMK said:


> I would bet that 2 or 3 inch thick disks of that wood could be used as garden path walking steps,,
> much like the concrete stepping stones.
> 
> Only, the locust will last longer than the concrete,,!!
> ...


I've made them out of White Oak, lots of them, for a school.
Since my wife quit her job there I haven't seen how they were doing.
The bummer is that Black Locust is a bit harder to find in larger sizes.
I've considered cutting them thicker, like 4" and then squaring them up to make a floor for my woodshed, I thought that would be pretty neat looking. There are streets in Chicago that are made of black locust and a few companies that sell BL boards and pavers, pretty neat product for sure.


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## Brufab (Feb 19, 2022)

A pro in the making!


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## U&A (Feb 19, 2022)

I ground start all my saws when they are cold


Sent while firmly grasping my Redline lubed Ram [emoji231]


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## Brufab (Feb 19, 2022)

U&A said:


> I ground start all my saws when they are cold
> 
> 
> Sent while firmly grasping my Redline lubed Ram [emoji231]


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## U&A (Feb 19, 2022)

And i never had issues with getting auto tune saws to start. They have all actually started EASTER than any others 


Sent while firmly grasping my Redline lubed Ram [emoji231]


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## thenne1713 (Feb 19, 2022)

Brushwacker said:


> Of course I choke it until i get a pop which is usually 4 or 5 pulls, then I push the switch lever down where I assume is fast idle and it's usually 4 or 5 more pulls to get it to hit and stay running. When it starts fast idle doesn't feel much different then idle. Don't recall messing with fast idles much in the past, but i need to adjust this 1 I believe.


8-10 pulls to start a saw is NEVER good, it would be a shelf items or bench item for sure. I finally found that when I had trouble, it was because hearing protection stopped me from hearing the POP, and that extra pull flooded it. Lesson was 1 ear open until start. If mine did not pop by 3rd pull (Cold), I would stop and recheck fuel level/ choke position, etc. Consider cleaning carb internal fuel screen and replacing fuel filter? Do you brush away sawdust before opening fuel/oil caps?


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## thenne1713 (Feb 20, 2022)

Brushwacker said:


> Should have the chain brake on when starting a saw in all positions i believe .
> Can get a faster pull drop starting. I push the saw away from me some as I pull the starter rope toward me.
> I think owners manual warn against drop starting.


Drop start w/ many saws is dangerous, esp. older saws w/ no chain brake. Most memorable is the (video) of the IDIOT pulling the rope w/ the bar tucked BETWEEN his legs? I would pray it had no chain, even if fake?


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## Abbeville TSI (Feb 20, 2022)

thenne1713 said:


> Drop start w/ many saws is dangerous, esp. older saws w/ no chain brake. Most memorable is the (video) of the IDIOT pulling the rope w/ the bar tucked BETWEEN his legs? I would pray it had no chain, even if fake?


I watched a man start a Homelite bow saw by holding the bow with his foot on the inside and pulling the rope.


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## thenne1713 (Feb 20, 2022)

Abbeville TSI said:


> I watched a man start a Homelite bow saw by holding the bow with his foot on the inside and pulling the rope.


When training son years back, he was bucking, straddle the saw, saw/hands in crotch area; I told him to shutoff; he immediately started to argue (teenager) "But I am left handed Dad"... I quietly stated "I was not saying anything about your hands, LOOK at where saw is, and WHERE chain would go if it derailed..." he looked down, at saw/bar, at his crotch, and stepped aside... " I said "Whenever possible, Align your bar with AIR, NOT with your body parts"... Point made?


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## Syncop8r (Feb 20, 2022)

Brushwacker said:


> Should have the chain brake on when starting a saw in all positions i believe .


The McCulloch manuals I have say to never start with the chain brake engaged.


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## thenne1713 (Feb 20, 2022)

Syncop8r said:


> The McCulloch manuals I have say to never start with the chain brake engaged.


The Husqvarna manual says "The chain brake should be activated when starting the saw"


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## Gamma Woods (Mar 22, 2022)

My 550mk2 can sometimes be finicky. Won't idle after a cold start on cold Canadian winter days, it needs to have a relatively long time on fast idle to warm up a bit first. Unlike every other saw I have, I can't just blip it occasionally to keep it going until it's warm. Autotune quirk I assume.

However, I fricken hate the starter. Broken a few too many assorted starters in my life, so I've learned to tease it to the start of the compression stroke and give a good smooth rip. Instead, it's a bumpy rough pull through alternating 0 resistance and sharp jagged/slamming catches. Not like it's firing and kicking back, but like the starter goes through several stages of catching and letting go, similar to the very first part of a pull on other saws if I don't jiggle it to the compression stroke. Regardless of how fast I pull it, might be some imperfect design to make starting easier but I don't like it. It's not difficult to pull or to start, it just doesn't feel right and I think it's a lot of abuse to put it through.


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## Brushwacker (Mar 22, 2022)

Gamma Woods said:


> My 550mk2 can sometimes be finicky. Won't idle after a cold start on cold Canadian winter days, it needs to have a relatively long time on fast idle to warm up a bit first. Unlike every other saw I have, I can't just blip it occasionally to keep it going until it's warm. Autotune quirk I assume.
> 
> However, I fricken hate the starter. Broken a few too many assorted starters in my life, so I've learned to tease it to the start of the compression stroke and give a good smooth rip. Instead, it's a bumpy rough pull through alternating 0 resistance and sharp jagged/slamming catches. Not like it's firing and kicking back, but like the starter goes through several stages of catching and letting go, similar to the very first part of a pull on other saws if I don't jiggle it to the compression stroke. Regardless of how fast I pull it, might be some imperfect design to make starting easier but I don't like it. It's not difficult to pull or to start, it just doesn't feel right and I think it's a lot of abuse to put it through.


My starter on my mk2 works about like what you discribed. I don't remember if i have the idling problem. Haven't used it a lot yet and been rotating several different saws between my personal ones and test runs on repairs.


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## Brushwacker (Mar 22, 2022)

chipper1 said:


> Wanna sell it .


If someone dropped by and cover all I have in it I'd let it go at this point. I can keep it or leave it, probably will not use it a lot until it gets freezing temperatures.


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## Brushwacker (Mar 22, 2022)

thenne1713 said:


> 8-10 pulls to start a saw is NEVER good, it would be a shelf items or bench item for sure. I finally found that when I had trouble, it was because hearing protection stopped me from hearing the POP, and that extra pull flooded it. Lesson was 1 ear open until start. If mine did not pop by 3rd pull (Cold), I would stop and recheck fuel level/ choke position, etc. Consider cleaning carb internal fuel screen and replacing fuel filter? Do you brush away sawdust before opening fuel/oil caps?


I done what u done enough times flooding to learn to pull the muffs up. Saw is new, probably 8 to 10 tanks through it. I expect between autotune and some more breaking in it will improve some. May be the fast idle should be a bit higher, anyway I can live with it for now. It's not a big problem.


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## Sierra_rider (Mar 22, 2022)

No ground starts for me. All the top handles and the little rear handle(mk1 550) get drop starts(with my right hand on the pull cord.) If I'm at my real job where they are sticklers for OSHA compliance, I'll do the 'between the legs" method with the small saws...basically nest the rear handle between your knees and pull with the right hand.

With all my saws with long bars, I do the "west coast style" drop start. You east coast guys could call it the over the log method lol...basically have the end of the bar resting over a stump or log and pull the cord with your left hand, while your right is on the throttle...all the while doing a dropping motion with the saw. Chain brake helps with that one...if it's off, or you don't have one, be prepared to blip the throttle on a cold start.

Most of my larger saws have higher than stock compression and don't have compression releases anymore, so this method is the best way to start them. I'd actually like to see somebody try to start my 066 or 880 from the ground lol.


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## Sierra_rider (Mar 22, 2022)

I should also mention, that my only saw that struggles with starting is my mk1 550xp. I've had it before, where it flat out refused to start on a hot start. My struggles with that saw, originally made me hesitant to buy my M-tronic Stihls. However, my 201tcm and ms400 are the easiest starting saws in my whole fleet...the current gen M-tronic is pretty badazz IMO.


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