# Finally, first time milling



## Gixxerjoe04 (Oct 26, 2016)

Well after ordering my mill and chainsaw a few months ago finally got around to milling some lumber. Seemed I waited forever for chains and stuff to arrive, then needed other things I forgot, then wife had a baby, so didn't have much time.
Used my stihl ms880 with a 36" bar with an oregon ripping chain, cut the slabs 2.25" thick, they're 7 feet long and the widest point was around 32". Not sure what kind of wood it is, figured it was some type of oak, thoughts?

What I learned.
I'm glad I'm only 30 years old, because it's a workout haha.
Having the log on an incline def makes it easier, got lucky the log wasn't flat on the ground.
Moving slabs by yourself sucks.
Took longer setting the saw and mill up just right than it did to mill the wood, such a rookie haha
Need to bring a mask with me next time.
It's awesome to see what a random ugly tree looks like cut up.
Need to find some walnut and cherry to mill.

Questions 
The log had been down for awhile, so the ends were cracked pretty good. Should I cut off the ends until the cracks are gone(would be 8" or so) and then seal it or just cut until the wood is fresh and just seal over the cracks?

Anyone have a problem with the nuts rattling off the cover, anyway to prevent that besides just checking after every cut? Had a screw up with a nut coming off letting the tension off the chain, just glad I caught it before anything bad happened. But then had to take the rails off to be able to get the bar and chain back on correctly.

With the powerhead pulling the saw into the tree, anyway to help it move down the tree more smoothly, mainly when cutting around rough parts where limbs use to be?


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## rarefish383 (Oct 26, 2016)

Pretty wood. Just wait till you are 60! But, by then, you'll have a tractor with FEL, forks, winch, trailers, all the stuff you want when you are 30, Joe.


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## duckman (Oct 26, 2016)

looks like Kentucky coffee. very nice looking stuff!


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Oct 26, 2016)

duckman said:


> looks like Kentucky coffee. very nice looking stuff!


Originally I thought it was ash after the first cut, have seen ky coffee before but never worked with it but does look similar, was surprised how pretty it was no matter what kind it was haha.


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## BobL (Oct 27, 2016)

Gixxerjoe04 said:


> Questions
> The log had been down for awhile, so the ends were cracked pretty good. Should I cut off the ends until the cracks are gone(would be 8" or so) and then seal it or just cut until the wood is fresh and just seal over the cracks?


Cracks tend to propagate so if you can I would cut them of.



> Anyone have a problem with the nuts rattling off the cover, anyway to prevent that besides just checking after every cut? Had a screw up with a nut coming off letting the tension off the chain, just glad I caught it before anything bad happened. But then had to take the rails off to be able to get the bar and chain back on correctly.


Do them up real tight.
If it's still a problem try new nuts
If they get really bad you can make extra long bar nuts and use locking nuts.



> With the powerhead pulling the saw into the tree, anyway to help it move down the tree more smoothly, mainly when cutting around rough parts where limbs use to be?


Slope your log - you can slope it a long way when they are short - like this


Wheels.
The black ones handle the situation when cutting the top half of the log and the white ones (are adjustable and can be locked in place up and down that tube) handle the lower half.



Like this

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## Gixxerjoe04 (Oct 27, 2016)

Thanks for the info Bob. Man, am I sore as hell today haha


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## BobL (Oct 28, 2016)

Gixxerjoe04 said:


> Thanks for the info Bob. Man, am I sore as hell today haha



OK - CSM 101 ergonomics

1) Raise the log off the ground so it can be placed on a slope
I've found it easier to lean on the saw wrap handle with my hip or upper leg rather than my arms. 
This really eases the after pain in shoulders and upper arms

2) Use a Remote throttle (A).
Mine is on my wrap handle 
This gets your left hand away from the trigger and frees it up to do other things while you cut like adding wedges.
See below where I have wedges strategically placed on top of the slab and because I use log rails on nearly every cut the CSM passes over the top.

3) Install handles that are high up on the mill than standard(B)
I use ally bicycle handle bar stems and invert them and push mountain bike handle bar covers over the top for improved grip 
This has two benefits - it allows you to stand up to the mill and it makes it MUCH easier to touch up the chain on the mill.

All three enable the operator to operate with arms much closer together which makes it much more comfortable.


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## IyaMan (Oct 28, 2016)

Though mentioned indirectly, note that BobL said he uses rails on every cut. I too find this extremely helpful for not just a smooth cut and easy movement (instead of sliding over the bare wood face) but most importantly, when entering and exiting the cut you are sure to have even/level cuts on the ends with the rails hanging a foot or so off the edges.


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Oct 28, 2016)

Will def look into improving some of that since it is rather awkward holding it all, problem is being able to move or lift logs, don't have anything to do that with. I do like the rail system in that last pic. Making the first cut was nice using a ladder, didn't use it after the first cut and starting the cut is kind of awkward since the rail doesn't stick out much farther than the bar. I do have a couple pieces of metal I could use as the rails like that, will probably start doing that from now on.


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Oct 28, 2016)

Now I just need to find a source of free fresher cut logs instead of these real old ones that are at my work and I'll be somewhat set.


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## BobL (Oct 28, 2016)

Gixxerjoe04 said:


> Will def look into improving some of that since it is rather awkward holding it all, problem is being able to move or lift logs, don't have anything to do that with. .



look in my sig line for something called a log lifter.


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Oct 31, 2016)

Noticed at work today they cut down a decent sized cherry tree when i was leaving, hoping they left it in decent lengths and put it in the pile with the other debris. Noticed the trunk had some rot in the middle, haven't got to see the other parts of the tree, hoping to find them tomorrow in big pieces. 

Was wondering what thickness everyone usually cuts their slabs at?


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## rarefish383 (Nov 1, 2016)

For table tops and benches I mill 2 1/2" to 3", Joe.


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Nov 1, 2016)

Went and checked the wood out this morning, some nice cherry but probably nothing bigger than 18" or so across which kind of sucks. Of course the biggest and longest log they cut, they ruined it with their loader, spilt right down the middle, still might cut on it for some nice bowl blanks.


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Nov 1, 2016)




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## leechlightning (Nov 2, 2016)

Looks like maple to me, cherry bark is darker and looks like cornflakes, plus you can see some leaves in the pic


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## JCaccents (Nov 2, 2016)

Went and took a look at a few Red Oaks. Been sitting a while so hard to tell what the insides will look like. Hoping for the best. Cant wait to start cutting these.

12ft long by 23in wide.


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Nov 2, 2016)

leechlightning said:


> Looks like maple to me, cherry bark is darker and looks like cornflakes, plus you can see some leaves in the pic


Well if I get to cut on it today I'll post pics, can't really go by the leaves since it's throw on brush from a ton of other trees as well, either way maple or cherry I'll be happy. Of course I went out there this morning and they cut down a ton of other trees yesterday so those particular logs are hard to get to now. There is a walnut log out there now but it's not very wide which kind of sucks. There are a bunch of other logs that are real nice but not sure what they are, assuming oak but going to cut and see. Really need to work on tree identification haha.


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Nov 2, 2016)

leechlightning said:


> Looks like maple to me, cherry bark is darker and looks like cornflakes, plus you can see some leaves in the pic


You were correct, should have noticed the ambrosia marks on the end, but it looked redish I guess. There were a lot of ash logs, a lot of smaller cherry and the maple. Took awhile to pull them from the brush but have a bunch for later on, milled up the maple one, had a little rot to deal with but some decent looking wood. Everything went smoother than last week, need to invest in a trailer and a way to pick the logs up off the ground and I'll be good.


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## JCaccents (Nov 3, 2016)

So, I had the oaks dropped off at my place yesterday. Considering its going to be my first time milling, I need some advice. I cut the ends off the logs and it looks to me that I might have some issues. They have been sitting for 2 years, so normal rot has started. One log looks like it has a crack all the way up the length of it. I would still like to mill it, just not sure which way I should start. Keep the crack in the middle so my slabs have the "cracked look" down the middle and i'll butterfly them, or try to cut opposite way and try to throw the crack out with one of the slabs.


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Nov 3, 2016)

JCaccents said:


> So, I had the oaks dropped off at my place yesterday. Considering its going to be my first time milling, I need some advice. I cut the ends off the logs and it looks to me that I might have some issues. They have been sitting for 2 years, so normal rot has started. One log looks like it has a crack all the way up the length of it. I would still like to mill it, just not sure which way I should start. Keep the crack in the middle so my slabs have the "cracked look" down the middle and i'll butterfly them, or try to cut opposite way and try to throw the crack out with one of the slabs.


I'd roll the log 90 degrees so I wouldn't have the crack in it, mainly because depending on how deep it is, could cut the slabs then go to pick them up then be screwed if the slabs just break in half.


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## JCaccents (Nov 3, 2016)

Gixxerjoe04 said:


> I'd roll the log 90 degrees so I wouldn't have the crack in it, mainly because depending on how deep it is, could cut the slabs then go to pick them up then be screwed if the slabs just break in half.



I was thinking the same thing. I just needed to hear it from someone else so I knew it would be the right route to go. haha, Thank you.


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## JCaccents (Nov 6, 2016)

Finally got to milling. For sitting outside for 2 years, they came out pretty good.


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## Mives4510 (Nov 6, 2016)

I used my csm for the first time yesterday. I have a stihl 044 with a 36 inch bar and Carlton full chisel chain. I know the saw is small and the chain isn't ideal but I got a good deal on the saw and I bought a 100 ft roll of chain on impulse. 
The first logs I got were poplar, and I was very eager to get started since it takes a few years to dry. 
I milked them at 2-1/2 inches. They were loaded on my trailer with a 4 loader but I had to drag them off with a 4 wheeler and then turn them with the log roller and use a chain come a long to winch them and o boy was that exhausting. 
A few things I've been thinking about while reading today....
I cut the logs close to the same length as my ladder so when I started and ended the saw was probably not straight.
Also the wood was so wet that despite using a leaf blower to blow the sawdust off, a lot of it was still stuck on there. So I had a lot of drag on the mill( I did hAve it on an incline though).
So I have a few adjustments to make but it is very rewarding getting to see the grain after each cut. 
I'm getting two trailer loads of oak this weekend. Can't wait


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Nov 6, 2016)

Looks like you all had fun, I went to mill saturday, actually had a friend with me to help which was nice. Well except for i got the logs ready to go, was making the first cut and one of the damn nuts on the cover came off yet again In doing that, the little spur drive adjustment thing that tightens and loosens the chain broke. Would of been a simple fix(I believe) if any of the stihl dealers had one in stock.


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## BobL (Nov 6, 2016)

Good work Mives.



Mives4510 said:


> Also the wood was so wet that despite using a leaf blower to blow the sawdust off, a lot of it was still stuck on there. So I had a lot of drag on the mill( I did hAve it on an incline though).



I use the logs rails for every cut to avoid this problem. It also means I can locate the wedges and hammer on top of the slab being cut as the mill passes over the top of them.
Next time you are buying a roll of chain think about using semi chisel as you will get a better finish.


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## JCaccents (Nov 7, 2016)

First log stacked and stickered. 2nd log I wasn't so lucky with. I cut the end off and stuck my wedge into the crack and the log split right down the middle.


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## JCaccents (Nov 7, 2016)

Need some info on stickering. I used some 2x4 I cut into strips, and also used some AZEK cut into strips. Will this be okay?


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Nov 7, 2016)

JCaccents said:


> Need some info on stickering. I used some 2x4 I cut into strips, and also used some AZEK cut into strips. Will this be okay?


From what I've read you want to use dry hardwood and not 2x4's because they could stain the wood from the moisture in them I believe, maybe someone will correct me if I'm wrong. I got a bunch of free wood off craigslist awhile ago, most was pretty crappy and didn't feel like dealing with it, luckily I hadn't burned it all yet, been using it.


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## BobL (Nov 7, 2016)

JCaccents said:


> Need some info on stickering. I used some 2x4 I cut into strips, and also used some AZEK cut into strips. Will this be okay?



Stickers should be placed right at the ends of each board and no more than about 18" apart for thin boards and ~24" for thicker boards
The stickers should also be place directly under each other.


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## JCaccents (Nov 28, 2016)

Time to mill another Red Oak. This time the tree is freshly cut and hasn't sat for a while. Cant wait to see how it looks.


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## JCaccents (Dec 7, 2016)

Any chance anyone could tell me how much these slabs are worth?? About 18in wide, 8.5ft long and 2.5in thick. And also 18in wide, 8.5ft long, and 4in thick. Red Oak


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## SeMoTony (Dec 7, 2016)

JCaccents said:


> Any chance anyone could tell me how much these slabs are worth?? About 18in wide, 8.5ft long and 2.5in thick. And also 18in wide, 8.5ft long, and 4in thick. Red OakView attachment 541816


Each on is worth the$ a buyer is willing to pay. Nice work, & ain't that new fresh wet grain beautiful! You will b better of getting something to seal the ends of the logs prior to slicing them up. Less time than sealing after, to lessen end splits. Those splits r caused by shrinkage (moisture loss) happening in the end grain faster than cross grain which retains size longer thereby causing difference. End seal brings air dry closer to same down the length of each board. Safe, happy milling 2 Ya


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## JCaccents (Dec 7, 2016)

SeMoTony said:


> Each on is worth the$ a buyer is willing to pay. Nice work, & ain't that new fresh wet grain beautiful! You will b better of getting something to seal the ends of the logs prior to slicing them up. Less time than sealing after, to lessen end splits. Those splits r caused by shrinkage (moisture loss) happening in the end grain faster than cross grain which retains size longer thereby causing difference. End seal brings air dry closer to same down the length of each board. Safe, happy milling 2 Ya



Oh yea I have sealed the ends shortly after I slabbed them up.


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