# Sharpening My Fiskars Axe ......... Tips ?



## Ductape (Nov 18, 2012)

Got a few small knicks on it..... getting time for a sharpening. I'm concerned about removing any more of the teflon than I have to. I do not own the Fiskars axe sharpener. Anyone got any helpful hints / techniques ?


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## Samlock (Nov 18, 2012)

I've made fresh cutting edges for the fiskars axes with a decent flat file. The same one I file the rakers with.


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## Dalmatian90 (Nov 18, 2012)

I use a file (the flat file for taking down rakers should do fine), then wet stone.

The stone probably isn't necessary since we're splitting wood, not cutting paper. But makes for a relaxing time watching TV 

You're just sharpening the edge, so you shouldn't have to worry about the non-stick coating.

As I'm notorious for not putting my toys away all the time, I've also taken some steel wool to remove surface rust then use this:
Tractor Supply - Mo-Deck Non-Stick Polymer Coating for Mowers, 11 oz. customer reviews - product reviews - read top consumer ratings

to help restore the slipperiness. I'm not really convinced it's needed, but it definitely feels slicker to the touch when I do


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## ponyexpress976 (Nov 18, 2012)

The flat file works well as does the el-cheapo sharpener from hardware store brand x. Some oil and sawdust in a large coffee can does wonders to keep a rusty edge from occurring.


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## mountainmandan (Nov 18, 2012)

I use a belt sander. I split so much wood with it the teflon was gone over a year ago. Just be careful not to overheat the edge.
Dan


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## Jere39 (Nov 18, 2012)

I bought the Fiskars sharpener, and I am not terribly impressed. The wheels seem fine, but the plastic they are mounted in are more suited to sharpening an xacto knife than a splitting ax. I have to kind of hold the plastic together when stroking the x27. I've found a good whet stone works much better. And, as mentioned, is kind of a relaxing little mind distractor for a while.

Good luck.


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## Iron Head (Nov 18, 2012)

Don't waste your money with the Fiskars sharpener.
It's a piece of crap.
Just use a large sharpening stone. A two grade water stone works great.


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## old cookie (Nov 19, 2012)

I just tuched up mine today.I have a half wornout file it wouldnt tuch it. I have one of those Smith diamond flat knife sharpeners,man that really worked nice.


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## PEKS (Nov 19, 2012)

I use a Flat File to get a good course edge..
Then follow up with a set of DMT Diamond Stones to remove the burr and deliver a honed sharp edge..


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## woodbooga (Nov 19, 2012)

I bought mine at the Alton Aubuchon - which doesnt carry the sharpener, grr.

The Tractor Soppy in Ossippe does where I bought mine. Pop by the one in Chichester and ask for a transfer if not in stock.

Regardless, a dull Fisk ax is pretty good compared to a 6lb maul imo.


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## REJ2 (Nov 19, 2012)

Okay, ill buck the trend. I got the fiskars sharpener and i think it works great for touch ups. Maintains factory angle with little material removal. Big nicks probably need something different. It does leave an edge that will cut paper just like your favorite knife does. Looks cheesy for sure but really effective.


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## D&B Mack (Nov 19, 2012)

Ductape said:


> Got a few small knicks on it..... getting time for a sharpening. I'm concerned about removing any more of the teflon than I have to. I do not own the Fiskars axe sharpener. Anyone got any helpful hints / techniques ?



I use a flat file as well. If I can find it, and you want it, I will send you my fiskars sharpener...since I don't use it.


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## Davej_07 (Nov 19, 2012)

I bought a cheap pocket knife sharpener at Gander mt. A few years back. A few passes with the carbide and a few on the ceramic makes the edge like new
Dave


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## Ductape (Nov 19, 2012)

Well, I was too lazy to run a file over my axe. I rigged up a saw horse to clamp the axe to, and used my grinder with a flap disc on it to sharpen it. I had to go over the edge in quick passes to keep from overheating the edge, but it worked quite well. I also did a couple hatchets with good results also.


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## old cookie (Nov 20, 2012)

I also like the fiskers sharpener, I also use it on my knives.It wont get them razer sharp ,just a good working edge.


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## Philbo (Nov 20, 2012)

I've been using a course bastard file for however long is needed to restore the edge to a relatively knick-free state. Then I use the pull-through Fiskars plastic sharpener which surprisingly puts a nice edge on it. I was convinced at first that the plastic sharpener couldn't really do much of anything, but it does actually sharpen the edge...it is limited to that though. You need a file (or grinder if you like power tools) to restore the edge from knicks.

I find that I end up just running it through the pull through sharpener every time I pick it up to use it (for the day/splitting session) then running it through again if I bury it in the dirt/driveway or if it's been through a ton of wood...just about like how you'd touch up a chain with a file on your saw.

My 2 cents...maybe someone else has a better way!


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## SPDRMNKY (Nov 20, 2012)

the fiskars head is perfect for clamping in the vise (edge up). then I just spin the vise to get the best angle for a small flat file...pay attention or you'll spin that handle right into your rib cage umpkin2:

I also use the fiskars sharpener, but instead of drawing the axe through it, I use two hands to hold it upside down, and draw the sharpener over the axe (while it's in my vise).

cheers!


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## Billm67 (Nov 27, 2012)

I used a 200, 400 and 600 grit diamond hone on the head to sharpen it. I would use a file to take out nicks. 

Here is a link to a you tube video made by the forestry service on hanging an axe head, and sharpening an axe. It's better than 95% of what's on tv.

US Forest Service, An Axe to Grind - Complete Documentary - YouTube


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## Butch(OH) (Nov 27, 2012)

What works best for me depends on how hacked up the edge is. I used to think the Fiskars sharpener was the biggest POS there was until I learned i was using it wrong,I used to lay the axe sharp side up on the bench and was trying to stroke the sharpener over it, DUH!! Once my wife showed me how to use it right, sharpener on bench and stroke the axe over it by its own weight only I like it a lot more. Works OK to keep the edge up but I sure would want to fix one that had hit a rock! When they are "kind of dull" I use an oil stone first and if real bad nicked etc I short cut the process starting with a grinder making quick passes prior to the oil stone and always finish with the Fiskars tool now. I dont think the no stick finish is a worry point, when used enough for the no stick to be wearing the sides should be polishing up and I cant tell one bit if or differance as to sticking, at least in the wood we mess with. Do pay close attention to the angles, that and being sharp are the main thing that will prevent sticking IMO.


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## mokuransu (Aug 20, 2018)

To concur with others, the fiskars sharpener is good for edge maintenance and touch ups. For an axe head with significant wear and tear, a good file and whetstone are required. The plastic housing of the fiskars sharpener is not as robust as I would like, but nonetheless with a little patience and practice, it provides a stable enough base to do light sharpening.


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## dancan (Aug 20, 2018)

Sharpen a splitting ax or maul ?
I've had my X25 for several years and have split many cord with it , mostly in a tire or directly on the ground , the same setup with my Isocore .
I've taken my 4 1/2" grinder with a flapwheel to the X25 once because of the dings that rocks made and not yet to the Isocore or any of my other mauls .
When splitting wood you're parting the grain so the way I look at it is E = mc^2 , Einstein said nothing about a sharp maul .


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## svk (Aug 21, 2018)

Old thread! These sites have seen amazing turnover over the years. I think there’s only one or two people in this thread that are still active here. 

I like a sharp tool. My X27 has split a lot of wood and tends to round off along the top edge over time. I sharpen it with a file or bench grinder as needed.


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## mokuransu (Aug 21, 2018)

Nicholson 8" handy file does the job for me. Gonna hone and polish the edge with a Lansky puck soon too.


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## rarefish383 (Aug 22, 2018)

mokuransu said:


> Nicholson 8" handy file does the job for me. Gonna hone and polish the edge with a Lansky puck soon too.


Welcome to the site. If you like axes, check out the Ax Restoration thread.


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## rarefish383 (Aug 22, 2018)

svk said:


> Old thread! These sites have seen amazing turnover over the years. I think there’s only one or two people in this thread that are still active here.
> 
> I like a sharp tool. My X27 has split a lot of wood and tends to round off along the top edge over time. I sharpen it with a file or bench grinder as needed.


Steve, old is relative. Those six years seemed to have gone by in 15 minutes. I checked and saw 8-9 names I didn't remember, saw a couple I miss. I clicked on a couple names I haven't seen in ages, turned out they are still active in different forums. Amazing how many forums we have to be active in.


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## muddstopper (Aug 22, 2018)

I found one of these to be about the best tool for a quik touch up on anything that needs a edge. https://www.amazon.com/Speedy-Sharp...ocphy=9010337&hvtargid=pla-369049724332&psc=1
I used to carry one in my pocket, until I lost it. Have to be careful using one, if you get over aggressive with it, it will ruin a blade on a pocket knife, It shaves the metal off the edge and only takes one or two licks to have a knife razor sharp. I used it on axes, shovels, hoes, sissors, anything that needs a edge. I need to get me a new one.


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## svk (Aug 22, 2018)

rarefish383 said:


> Steve, old is relative. Those six years seemed to have gone by in 15 minutes. I checked and saw 8-9 names I didn't remember, saw a couple I miss. I clicked on a couple names I haven't seen in ages, turned out they are still active in different forums. Amazing how many forums we have to be active in.


Yeah a few are still active elsewhere. And a number of them monitor here and report elsewhere lol. I never understood that. 

A lot have just moved on though. Seems the average life span of a forum member is 2-3 years


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## garythenuke (May 26, 2020)

If you all don't mind, I'll resurrect this one again...  Do you guys worry about the geometry of the edge and head on the Fiskars 27 when you touch it up? From what I read, the geometry of the Fiskars splitting axe is what sets is apart. Have any other manufacturers come up with a geometry that is as good or better? I have a 27 that I've touched up several times and am wondering if I have inadvertently changed the head geometry. Thanks!!


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## svk (May 26, 2020)

garythenuke said:


> If you all don't mind, I'll resurrect this one again...  Do you guys worry about the geometry of the edge and head on the Fiskars 27 when you touch it up? From what I read, the geometry of the Fiskars splitting axe is what sets is apart. Have any other manufacturers come up with a geometry that is as good or better? I have a 27 that I've touched up several times and am wondering if I have inadvertently changed the head geometry. Thanks!!


The point itself will slowly change but if it is reasonably sharp I wouldn’t think it would make much difference, performance wise.


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## muddstopper (May 26, 2020)

I have graduated from the tool steel sharpener to one of these https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gr...clid=ADL-c11f4d8e-5251-4594-a44b-175b8443b8e0. wet grinds to keep the metal cool and has a leather strop to polish razor sharp if that's what you want. It does take practice, but once you get it set up with the proper tool holder, you can sharpen anything from a straight razor to a godevil. I still miss that pocket sharpener though, noting handier when out in the woods.


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## Ductape (May 27, 2020)

I forgot I even started this thread. I'm still a hack, and do quick touch ups on my Fiskars with a flap disc on my grinder. I am happy to report that My Fiskars is still going strong after the 8 or 9 years of splitting wood with it.


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## LondonNeil (May 28, 2020)

Decent flat file and it's easy to do the edge. I find the steel isn't that hard, it's a certainly softer than my other maul and my hatchet. It manages to keep the edge will enough until I find a stone or such though.


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## garythenuke (May 28, 2020)

Thanks for everyone's replies to this. I use a flat file and then a puck if I'm really feeling it. I just never paid attention to keeping the bevel angle as I hadn't had to worry about that on any of my other axes. I was just curious as to other guy's experiences with this and to find out if it seemed to make a difference or not. A sharpening wheel is amazing. My son bought a Tormec, but sadly it's at his place..  I've also noticed the steel seems to give way sooner than usual. I'm pretty careful not to dig trenches with my axes, but this even dullls pretty quickly just splitting.


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## svk (May 29, 2020)

garythenuke said:


> I've also noticed the steel seems to give way sooner than usual. I'm pretty careful not to dig trenches with my axes, but this even dullls pretty quickly just splitting.


The only real drawback to the Fiskars line. The original cutting edge is hardened but as you wear away, the metal is pretty soft. Still totally worth it for a 50 dollar splitting tool that outperforms nearly all other splitting axes.


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## Marine5068 (May 31, 2020)

Jere39 said:


> I bought the Fiskars sharpener, and I am not terribly impressed. The wheels seem fine, but the plastic they are mounted in are more suited to sharpening an xacto knife than a splitting ax. I have to kind of hold the plastic together when stroking the x27. I've found a good whet stone works much better. And, as mentioned, is kind of a relaxing little mind distractor for a while.
> 
> Good luck.


I also use a stone and file to sharpen my axes when needed.
I take the file to the heavy knicks the the stone to hone it up.
I found a round axe sharpening stone at some store one day and picked it up.
It's got one side rough and one fine.
Does a great job.


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