# Widow Makes a Mill



## WidowMaker1 (Sep 30, 2012)

finally found enough scrap metal laying around the farm to knock up a CS Mill for the 3120, gonna be a little heavy, But sturdy and true!! just gotta weld it up with stick this week and drill the bar, and make up a plate to run back to the bar bolts and few other things, thinking about using one of the uprights for the auxiliary bar oil. will add pics as i can ....


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## WidowMaker1 (Sep 30, 2012)

will end up with 1.5" to 19" cut depth capacity. The rails will go underneath the cross members (unlike the above pics, I just placed it together quickly for a pic )


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## john taliaferro (Sep 30, 2012)

When i made mine i 45 the corners of the frame and welded a pipe nipple at both ends . The one got a ball valve the other a riser pipe i use as a push handle, fill hole ,vent . It will hold almost a gallon of peanut or canola oil .


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## WidowMaker1 (Sep 30, 2012)

john taliaferro said:


> When i made mine i 45 the corners of the frame and welded a pipe nipple at both ends . The one got a ball valve the other a riser pipe i use as a push handle, fill hole ,vent . It will hold almost a gallon of peanut or canola oil .


 that should work a treat too, thanks for the tip ...


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## WidowMaker1 (Sep 30, 2012)

will be around 31" minimum, maxed out ill get 36" No dramas with the 42" bar. 













even found some you beaut postie bike handlebars


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 1, 2012)

got the stick welder out this arvo, not to shabby? havent welded for a few months ...


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## john taliaferro (Oct 1, 2012)

Heavy is smooth i sometimes have to add weight to my granburg mill because of vibration . Around here i use my homemade 36 " alot more than the bigger one . Make a few cuts with new chains before putting them on the mill ,they stretch ,and lower the rakers tell it rips . It works better to drill the bar , makes changing chain faster . Looking good . 
The upright will hold enought oil for a long cut in hardwood , it just needs to drip slowely on to the tip of the bar .


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 1, 2012)

Progress so far.


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 1, 2012)

john taliaferro said:


> Heavy is smooth i sometimes have to add weight to my granburg mill because of vibration . Around here i use my homemade 36 " alot more than the bigger one . Make a few cuts with new chains before putting them on the mill ,they stretch ,and lower the rakers tell it rips . It works better to drill the bar , makes changing chain faster . Looking good .
> The upright will hold enought oil for a long cut in hardwood , it just needs to drip slowely on to the tip of the bar .


 thanks for the tips mate. yeah I was looking at Will malloff Lumbermaking, he had a firewood block sitting on top of his alaskan, i figure weight will keep it stable, good for downhill cuts too. yep i always like to run a chain in well before i grind it into a slabbing chain. 
Defently will be making it so i can do a chain swap without taking the mill off. ....


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 2, 2012)




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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 5, 2012)




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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 8, 2012)




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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 8, 2012)

just figuring out a bar plate, trying to eliminate having to remove anything for a chain change ....I can always just use the clutch cover, but this way it'll be so much easier .....still have to fab a few things up. Its awesome straight and square tho, she'll be a ripper .......


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 9, 2012)

Easy access chain tensioner, with spanner. All high tensile Bolts & Nuts, Made In Australia! steel is BHP/BlueScope Steel from Port Kembla, with some Fiat 411 crawler steel thrown in. unbreakable!


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 9, 2012)




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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 9, 2012)




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## splitpost (Oct 9, 2012)

very cool,cant wait to see some slabs being cut


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 9, 2012)

thanks mate, got a massive amount of logs on the farm to use, will be making up some bush slab furniture to sell down the local markets ...


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 10, 2012)




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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 15, 2012)




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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 15, 2012)




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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 15, 2012)




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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 20, 2012)




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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 20, 2012)




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## mad murdock (Oct 20, 2012)

Nice Workmanship. Looks likemthatmwill be a 2
Man operation. How much does it weigh?


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## BobL (Oct 20, 2012)

Looks good WM!

The way the sawdust guard is designed the sawdust will fall down into and in front of your feet. When milling a big log this becomes a PITA. As more of the log gets cut away the layer of sawdust underneath your feet will build up a lot more than you think. Cutting the last few slabs will then require bending over more than necessary because your feet will be 6 inches higher off the ground than it should be. I found its better to leave the cut away and angle of offshoot of the drive sprocket guard as is so the sawdust shoots out away from the log. Sure one can stop and rake it aside but it is not necessary if the guard is designed with this in mind to begin with.

Like this




I'd flare the guard out as per the lime green section and completely cut away the area bounded by the blue as it is unnecessary. 

It also looks like your exhaust vents direct onto the chain? I will be very interested to see what effect that has on the chain and bar. 
There are also gaps between the guard and saw body where the wrap handle is. I found it was better to have the guard as sealed up as possible around that edge otherwise the oily sawdust made a bit of mess in that area. Anyway I guess you'll find out how it goes.

I'd also be getting rid of as much as possible of the inboard long threaded rod. When starting a log the curvature of the log could be such that your skid may not be low enough to stop the bolt digging into the side of the log and you will then have to hold the mill away from the side of the log. Ideally the skid should be able to be moved up and down in a vertical direction to take this into account. This is less of a problem when milling the lower half of the log although a wheel on the upright near the bar will probably help.

My last point is a small one but I reckon it helps to see the tip of the aux oil delivery point or at least the area right near the tip while you are cutting as for a whole lot of reasons the oil might stop coming out and so something can be done about it. I like to see a little pool or oil around the exit point.


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 20, 2012)

BobL said:


> Looks good WM!
> 
> The way the sawdust guard is designed the sawdust will fall down into and in front of your feet. When milling a big log this becomes a PITA. As more of the log gets cut away the layer of sawdust underneath your feet will build up a lot more than you think. Cutting the last few slabs will then require bending over more than necessary because your feet will be 6 inches higher off the ground than it should be. I found its better to leave the cut away and angle of offshoot of the drive sprocket guard as is so the sawdust shoots out away from the log. Sure one can stop and rake it aside but it is not necessary if the guard is designed with this in mind to begin with.
> 
> ...


 Thanks bob. :msp_smile:

yeah all good points mate, its a interesting process building a better mill, it changes all the time as you would know, once your finished building a part your already thinking of a better way to do it .....

guess thats the luxury of being a half decent welder, can always change it up ..... 

I was looking at your clutch cover and a few others on AS, ...i just slapped something up pretty quickly that can always be altered, something like you mentioned, I was planning on flaring it out that way, ill see how it goes anyway for now ..but one positive of the sawdust going straight down to my feet, it'll keep them bloody blood sucking leach's away. lol (not the ones in Canberra but)

still have a muffler pipe to do mate, ...I cut the baffle out all ready... will be doing a pipe like yours that can be bolted onto where the original deflector goes, so many things to do, and i have to scavenge for bits and pieces 

and yeah the threaded rods will be cut down once i've determened if ill need to add anything else, might add some wheels to it yet too...., lots of good ideas only enough time in the day.... 

cheers


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 20, 2012)

mad murdock said:


> Nice Workmanship. Looks likemthatmwill be a 2
> Man operation. How much does it weigh?


 thanks mate, 

one man op, unless i get the wifey hanging on the other end. lol 

not shore about the weight, but theres no movement what so ever, it'll be fine when milling as i'll be using a ladder or such ...so starting & ending the cut won't be a drama, one things forshore this thing won't be vibrating or running off course, it balances out perfect too! 

cheers


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## BobL (Oct 20, 2012)

No worries WM - I think you will work it one way or another



WidowMaker1 said:


> I was looking at your clutch cover and a few others on AS, ...i just slapped something up pretty quickly that can always be altered, something like you mentioned, I was planning on flaring it out that way, ill see how it goes anyway for now ..but one positive of the sawdust going straight down to my feet, it'll keep them bloody blood sucking leach's away. lol (not the ones in Canberra but)



I can tell you it doesn't keep the bullants away. Was once milling a log in some scrubby bush and didn't see the nest till they were up my shorts - You've never seen anyone get their daks off quicker. Lucky for me my mate was laughing his head off so much he couldn't take a focussed photo of me stumbling around with my daks down around my ankles


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 20, 2012)

BobL said:


> No worries WM - I think you will work it one way or another
> 
> 
> 
> I can tell you it doesn't keep the bullants away. Was once milling a log in some scrubby bush and didn't see the nest till they were up my shorts - You've never seen anyone get their daks off quicker. Lucky for me my mate was laughing his head off so much he couldn't take a focussed photo of me stumbling around with my daks down around my ankles



yeah its great fun looking for ways to improve things, even if we have to do it several times. 

luckily the bullants nests around here are generally a foot higher than ground level, something to do with there nest flooding ....they shore do give a bloody good bite tho, lol ...im shore your mate wishes he got that snap, would of been a funny sight ! 

thanks for the feedback bob, all the best!


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## captndavie (Oct 20, 2012)

Nice mill. I need a bigger saw now. Then I can build me one.


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 20, 2012)

captndavie said:


> Nice mill. I need a bigger saw now. Then I can build me one.


 thanks bro, its very rewarding building your own stuff, forever changing/improving it ....


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## Old Blue (Oct 22, 2012)

*Nice build*

Yer making it look easy. Can't wait to see your first slabs. Theres nothing like firing it up and making those first cuts.

Old Blue
Feckless taxation with no representation in....
Kali-bone-ya


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 22, 2012)

Old Blue said:


> Yer making it look easy. Can't wait to see your first slabs. Theres nothing like firing it up and making those first cuts.
> 
> Old Blue
> Feckless taxation with no representation in....
> Kali-bone-ya



cheers mate thanks. on the home run now i hope ....just a little fine tuning, add a few things, and thread locking it all down for its first run


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 25, 2012)

Just a small gum, first try of the New mill, had to run the chain in & test it out ...went really well!


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 25, 2012)




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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 25, 2012)

Will finish up running it in, a little fine tuning here and there, & gotta file the chain back to 10* ...and move onto some forest red gum & Ironbark next, thanks for looking!


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 29, 2012)




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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 29, 2012)




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## john taliaferro (Oct 29, 2012)

Pipe should work great at removing exhaust ,and youll be amazed bout how it blows sawdust away from your feet .Whats the wood ,looks like oak?


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 29, 2012)

john taliaferro said:


> Pipe should work great at removing exhaust ,and youll be amazed bout how it blows sawdust away from your feet .Whats the wood ,looks like oak?



Its Eucalyptus maculata (Spotted Gum.) just a few test cuts & stretching the chain on that one, good workable wood for internals. ill make up a Kitchen bench and TV entertainment unit in the lounge room out of that tree.. . 

yeah i needed a good pipe for that, will be doing a heap of milling in the future with it, so needed to get rid of exhaust fumes to keep me productive, and not smacked out high on fumes after a long day.


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## Old Blue (Oct 29, 2012)

Thats brilliant work WM. I really like the new pipe and the aux oiler, in fact I think I may have to paint mine red. Thats a nice no nonsense chain adjuster, it doesn't look like it will ever let you down.

That a nice slice out of that gum. Congrats on gettin her into the wood! Are you going to work with that slice or cut some more out of it?

Way to go with all the pics, thanks for sharing.

Old Blue
Where the governors groveling and begging for more taxes is shameless and knows no limits, in......
Kali-bone-ya


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 29, 2012)

Old Blue said:


> Thats brilliant work WM. I really like the new pipe and the aux oiler, in fact I think I may have to paint mine red. Thats a nice no nonsense chain adjuster, it doesn't look like it will ever let you down.
> That a nice slice out of that gum. Congrats on gettin her into the wood! Are you going to work with that slice or cut some more out of it?



Thanks Blue, yeah its a solid unit, strong as! I used to use an alaskan but never liked the flex/vibes of the lighter mill. 

pipe works a treat mate, it fires the fumes way out into the breeze ...sounds wicked too!!! 

yeah gonna use that slice as is, for a kitchen bench, leave the natural edge's on it ...just hand plane it down, and belt sand it. 
cheers


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## Dad2FourWI (Oct 31, 2012)

> yeah gonna use that slice as is, for a kitchen bench, leave the natural edge's on it ...just hand plane it down, and belt sand it.



Make sure to post some pics when you do!!! Sounds like a nice project!!

I hope you are wearing hearing protection when you have that baby flat out! <grin!>

-Dad2FourWI


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## BobL (Oct 31, 2012)

Looking good WM.



WidowMaker1 said:


> Its Eucalyptus maculata (Spotted Gum.) . . . .



If it's Spotted Gum, it's technically not a Eucalypt but from a closely related family of Aussie Blood Woods (Corymbya). The name change is relatively recent and still disputed.
Details here. Forest Products Commission - developing the sustainable use of the States plantation and native forest resources in Western Australia


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 31, 2012)

BobL said:


> Looking good WM.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



yeah right didn't realise they came up with some new name, lol. its been called Eucalyptus Maculata botanically for as long as i care to remember (we just call them spotted gum) ...I just got a Book for my info, its a old one but: 'Native trees and shrubs of south- eastern Australia By Leon Costermans.'

got a heap of big Red Blood woods up the western paddock, very smelly when cut, lots of sap pockets! great firewood tho....


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 31, 2012)

Dad2FourWI said:


> Make sure to post some pics when you do!!! Sounds like a nice project!!
> 
> I hope you are wearing hearing protection when you have that baby flat out! <grin!>
> 
> -Dad2FourWI


 yeah she crackles up the valley with authority, even more so after removing the internal baffle..  use muffs when milling, tho i like hearing it when cross-cutting so no hearing protection then. ..and people say i have selective hearing. maybe i just don't listen? lol


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## BobL (Oct 31, 2012)

WidowMaker1 said:


> yeah right didn't realise they came up with some new name, lol. its been called Eucalyptus Maculata botanically for as long as i care to remember (we just call them spotted gum) ...I just got a Book for my info, its a old one but: 'Native trees and shrubs of south- eastern Australia By Leon Costermans.'
> 
> got a heap of big Red Blood woods up the western paddock, very smelly when cut, lots of sap pockets! great firewood tho....



I have milled quite a few spotties (eg http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/82960.htm#post1260825) including one that was about 45" in diam.
Did you know it's best to mill them just after the bark turns red and starts to flake off (that takes 3-4 months)? If they are milled immediately after felling they tend to split a lot more than if they are left for a while. They can of course be also milled when they are dry but then they are pretty hard and the milling turns into a "sharpethon".

RE: The Name
I have a few books on Aussie trees, including the 2011 CSIRO bible on Forest trees of Australia and it has Spottie listed under both names. I guess the tree taxonomists have to have something to argue about.


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 31, 2012)

BobL said:


> I have milled quite a few spotties (eg http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/82960.htm#post1260825) including one that was about 45" in diam.
> Did you know it's best to mill them just after the bark turns red and starts to flake off (that takes 3-4 months)? If they are milled immediately after felling they tend to split a lot more than if they are left for a while. They can of course be also milled when they are dry but then they are pretty hard and the milling turns into a "sharpethon".
> 
> RE: The Name
> I have a few books on Aussie trees, including the 2011 CSIRO bible on Forest trees of Australia and it has Spottie listed under both names. I guess the tree taxonomists have to have something to argue about.



nice looking slabs mate. I also find when there felled and green they can be very corrosive to metal, and alloy, if there not cleaned up reasonably soon after cutting a fresh green spotty. seen a lot of badly corroded clutch covers, from the spotties if there not maintained, and rusty gooed up chain. 

yeah they love to confuse the average jo .lucky we have easy tree names too, like spotty & stringy, redgum, Blackbutt ...big tree in the bottom paddock. lol


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## WidowMaker1 (Oct 31, 2012)




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## rodeobob (Nov 3, 2012)

Awesome stuff. Thanks for sharing it.

With the aux oil tank something that might be helpful. If you put in a ball valve or a second tap after the tap you have now could leave that tap set to the right flow and not have to touch it.
Probably not that relavant as the viscosity changes with ambient temp but just something that popped in my mind when I saw it.

Actually the fist thing was 'oh honda tank, GX340 by the look, what damn thread is the bung hole on the bottom, I should ask'. Then I saw the underside and its not off a GX. Ive got 5 or 6 tanks here, no barbs in the bung holes. $5 ea from the scrap yard, needed a cap, tank came free, so I got a few for spares. 




I have a question or two.
The saw end is leading and the other trailing in the frame. Im sure theres a reasoning behind that. 
Is the reason if the bar is parallel in the frame that it has a tendancy to rock or not cut flat???
Might save me a rookie mistake.


The sleeved spreader bar in the centre, is it nessacary. I would assume you have it because you might want to up the bar size later. If you were set on a 42" bar could you just have the rectangular frame rigid?


Is a hard nose bar OK to use.

Looking to do something like that myself. So yeah I really really appreciate what youve shared.


Cheers


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## WidowMaker1 (Nov 3, 2012)

rodeobob said:


> I have a question or two.
> The saw end is leading and the other trailing in the frame. Im sure theres a reasoning behind that.
> Is the reason if the bar is parallel in the frame that it has a tendancy to rock or not cut flat???
> Might save me a rookie mistake.



seems to be the optimum angle for starting/ Jurring & finishing a cut i find personally , less Vibration & kinda widens the width of the bar in a trailing aspect? ....in my own mind it could even slightly help in pulling slightly bigger chips (curls) rather than sawdust ....my theory behind that is from free hand ripping, Noodling angle vs cutting straight into the grain ...tho the angle is not substantial enough to change anything much, but its optimum for starting and finishing cuts mainly. 

setting the bar square with the mill frame works just fine as well, as you can always swivel the frame/bar to achieve the angle that works best for you ....myself i like it angled slightly off square 




robeobob said:


> The sleeved spreader bar in the centre, is it nessacary. I would assume you have it because you might want to up the bar size later. If you were set on a 42" bar could you just have the rectangular frame rigid?



the more adjustment you can have the better for fine tuning, different bars ....If your attaching the bar with bolts, its easy to tweak and line everything up perfect. ..say if your welded it all up and find your bar bolt hole doesnt line up perfect with the frame you cant adjust to optimive everything ...if somethings slightly off, you'll find it can slightly throw the bar out of straightness, but with adjustment and a tweak here and there you'll be perfectly square and straight. 



robeobob said:


> Is a hard nose bar OK to use.



shore, lots of milling been done with hardnose ....tho i prefer sprocket, for it reduce's friction & you can keep a better chain tension with a sprocket nose, ....


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## WidowMaker1 (Nov 4, 2012)

bottom hose feeds oil into the inside of the bar groove, with the hollow bolt threw bar set up. And the top hose feeds oil onto the chain right at where the chain and rails meet.

....i've got it set-up so the bulk of the oil feeds into the inside of the bar, the top pipe just runs a smaller amount of oil continuously as well (which i can alter volume with the ball valve tap) ......If one of the feeds gets blocked the other feed will increase its flow... with the main flow going into bottom pipe and into the bar regardless.

With the main cock valve at the tank that adjusts the overall flow


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## MCW (Nov 4, 2012)

WidowMaker1 said:


> so needed to get rid of exhaust fumes to keep me productive, and not smacked out high on fumes after a long day.



Don't ever use Castrol TTS then. A good oil for sure but the fumes are nasty, epecially with something like a 3120 that loves to pump out heaps of fumes 
Are you looking at ever running a longer bar mate? I've found my 3120 with the oil boost on throws ample oil out for a 42" bar, even on my mill. I did start running the auxillary oiler on the 60" setup though.
I don't think your mill will ever bend either  Great, solid setup. Full farmer spec and some pretty handy welds there too.
I've had to make a whole heap of modifications to my GB double ender mill to keep the bastard locked down. The standard setup is crap and even when doing the nuts up with a rattle gun I found it would shift mid slab. I've now welded 4 extra nuts onto the cross bars and am running allen bolts against the vertical adjustment framework to keep it locked up tight. In hindsight I wish I built my own mill like yours as I've put about $750 into mine to get it where it is now and I've wrecked a fair few slabs as it's shifted mid cut without me realising.


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## WidowMaker1 (Nov 4, 2012)

MCW said:


> Don't ever use Castrol TTS then. A good oil for sure but the fumes are nasty, epecially with something like a 3120 that loves to pump out heaps of fumes
> Are you looking at ever running a longer bar mate? I've found my 3120 with the oil boost on throws ample oil out for a 42" bar, even on my mill. I did start running the auxillary oiler on the 60" setup though.
> I don't think your mill will ever bend either  Great, solid setup. Full farmer spec and some pretty handy welds there too.
> I've had to make a whole heap of modifications to my GB double ender mill to keep the bastard locked down. The standard setup is crap and even when doing the nuts up with a rattle gun I found it would shift mid slab. I've now welded 4 extra nuts onto the cross bars and am running allen bolts against the vertical adjustment framework to keep it locked up tight. In hindsight I wish I built my own mill like yours as I've put about $750 into mine to get it where it is now and I've wrecked a fair few slabs as it's shifted mid cut without me realising.



yeah i'll fab it up for a longer bar once i get hold of a decent bar im happy with, its been made adjustable for that... just need the bar and i'll just extend the rails, and move the oiler up. Got a heap of logs to slab that the 42" will handle, but yep in the future a longer bar will happen! :msp_biggrin: 
yep the 3120 shore do throw good oil, but being oldschool farm breed i love more oil. 

yeah we farmers like to build chit, love welding chit up, always welding/fixing slashers, implements, tractor, re-building stuff, its a great lifestyle mate ... ruff and tumble but strong as a true aussies back us farmin rednecks. lol 

. .....yeah make em strong and add some steel mate, if your running 60" you'll want a good solid backbone in the frame 

cheers


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## BobL (Nov 4, 2012)

WidowMaker1 said:


> bottom hose feeds oil into the inside of the bar groove, with the hollow bolt threw bar set up. And the top hose feeds oil onto the chain right at where the chain and rails meet. ....i've got it set-up so the bulk of the oil feeds into the inside of the bar, the top pipe just runs a smaller amount of oil continuously as well (which i can alter volume with the ball valve tap) ......If one of the feeds gets blocked the other feed will increase its flow... with the main flow going into bottom pipe and into the bar regardless.



I found a through the bar gravity feed oil line always blocked up and I got sick of unblocking it. I stopped using mine after about persisting with it for about 30 logs. It also looks like the top feed hose is just poked though a hole in the guard. If so the saw vibe will eventually wear the hose where it makes contact with the guard and it will be come loose and either fall onto the chain or fall off as you move it around. It's better to make something more solid. I use a brass bolt with a hole through it that can be moved to within 1/8" of the chain so that it wicks out onto the chain rather than drops onto the chain.


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## WidowMaker1 (Nov 4, 2012)

BobL said:


> I found a through the bar gravity feed oil line always blocked up and I got sick of unblocking it. I stopped using mine after about persisting with it for about 30 logs. It also looks like the top feed hose is just poked though a hole in the guard. If so the saw vibe will eventually wear the hose where it makes contact with the guard and it will be come loose and either fall onto the chain or fall off as you move it around. It's better to make something more solid. I use a brass bolt with a hole through it that can be moved to within 1/8" of the chain so that it wicks out onto the chain rather than drops onto the chain.



i thought it might block at times, its a fairly big delivery in the bar but, much bigger hole than the normal bar oiler hole at the powerhead ....thats a reason i went with the dual delivery in case one or ..the other blocks, if it does the other will keep flowing .....the guard can move up and down so i can place the hose right on top of the area as needed till i work on a better solution, I used Loctite 480 on the hose ...that stuff is super strong gear ($30 25ml ), it won't come loose easily

its just a work in progress mate, think i'll always be improving things ....pinching some of your ideas along the way .lol 

cheers Kain


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## Stihlman441 (Nov 4, 2012)

Good stuff WM,the slabbing can become a bit addictive.
Great thread thinks for sharing.


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## WidowMaker1 (Nov 4, 2012)

Stihlman441 said:


> Good stuff WM,the slabbing can become a bit addictive.
> Great thread thinks for sharing.



Thanks mate! cheers


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## rodeobob (Nov 7, 2012)

Thanks for the extra info


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## Rudolf73 (Nov 21, 2012)

Great thread man! Keep up the good work :msp_thumbup:


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