# How to build a peavie, cant hook, or log jack



## jmatuska (May 1, 2008)

I have started cutting my own firewood and rather than borrowing a cant hook from a friend I would like to have my own. Looking at them online and in stores the good ones are over $100. Kind of expensive for someone cutting their own wood. 

Has anyone built their own cant hook, peavey, or log jack that they can share pictures, plans or advice. I can do some basic welding and cutting, but I'm not that great at it, so the simpler the design the better. 

Any advice is greatly appreiciated. 

Thank You,

Jim


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## epicklein22 (May 1, 2008)

If you can weld, then shoot, make your own. Get a shovel handle, some metal and give it a try.


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## Mike Van (May 1, 2008)

Jim, the one you borrowed, just use it as a pattern, you can use steel pipe instead of a wood handle - Do a google search, you'll see all kinds of them - Post a pic. when you get it done -


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## gink595 (May 1, 2008)

I have a buddy who is a welding instructor at a high school and I e-mailed this plan to him, for a plan for his students to build as a final, which I got from someone who posted here so here you go if you want to give it a try


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## A. Stanton (May 2, 2008)

Jim,
I hate to say it, but quit being a piker and go buy yourself a log peavy from Logrite for $100. The thing will last you a lifetime. And after using that thing for a lifetime, you will still be able to sell it for about $50 on Fleabay. That means after about 25 years, you only spent $2 a year to save yourself time, aggravation, and possibly a back surgery or two. Most of us will piss away $100 for lottery tickets or beer in about a month's time and not think anything of it.


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## jmatuska (May 2, 2008)

*Thanks for the plans*

Thanks for the plans, those are exactly what I needed. I was going to draw up my own design, but these plans will work great. I have a bunch of black pipe left over from when I installed natural gas in my house so that will be perfect to use for these plans. I'll post a picture once I complete building mine. 

:greenchainsaw:


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## Metals406 (May 2, 2008)

I built this one last month...






I used remnant pieces I had laying around... It's pretty heavy duty.

I can scale it for you if you want measurements.

The jack is removable so you can use it as a cant hook.


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## jmatuska (May 2, 2008)

Also a very nice one. I find it very interesting how if you buy a cant hook or peavie or jack they are over 100 dollars yet they look so simple to build. 

As for scale, my only question is how long is your hook and typically how big of diameter logs can you lift with it?


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## Metals406 (May 2, 2008)

jmatuska said:


> Also a very nice one. I find it very interesting how if you buy a cant hook or peavie or jack they are over 100 dollars yet they look so simple to build.
> 
> As for scale, my only question is how long is your hook and typically how big of diameter logs can you lift with it?



LOL... It may look simple... But it took some trial and error. I had to try and scale one from an online picture.

Fully open, point-to-point is about 18"-19". It stands about 14.5" off the ground. This thing would probably turn a 5' tree, and jack something 24"-36"? I haven't tested it's capacity yet... Biggest I've jacked so far is probably 15" at the bole.


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## country boy (May 2, 2008)

Here is one i built quite a while back out of some scrap peices i had . I use it quite often .http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/timberguy/DSCF0707.jpg


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## kd460 (May 2, 2008)

Hey Metals, nice work, how about a close up of the tooth on the end of the bar? I am almost done with mine and amazingly it looks very similiar to yours. Just need to work out the bite end of it. Thanks, KD


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## 046 (May 2, 2008)

NICE snap-on box!



country boy said:


> Here is one i built quite a while back out of some scrap peices i had . I use it quite often .http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/timberguy/DSCF0707.jpg


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## Metals406 (May 2, 2008)

kd460 said:


> Hey Metals, nice work, how about a close up of the tooth on the end of the bar? I am almost done with mine and amazingly it looks very similiar to yours. Just need to work out the bite end of it. Thanks, KD








*Now you got to show me yours.*


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## husky455rancher (May 2, 2008)

ok i dont know so ill ask appatently you use to to move logs. but what the hell is it for and how do you use it? what are the benifits of using one?


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## Metals406 (May 2, 2008)

husky455rancher said:


> ok i dont know so ill ask appatently you use to to move logs. but what the hell is it for and how do you use it? what are the benifits of using one?



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cant_Hook

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peavey_(tool)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timberjack

:greenchainsaw:


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## kd460 (May 2, 2008)

Excellent! Thanks, so it looks like you cut a taper in the pipe/bar and filled it with weld and ground it smooth? Next question, hardened steel tooth? I was considering a grade 5 or 8 bolt (ground smooth of course) and using that. 

Thanks for the pics, it helps, gonna weld the rest of it up in the morning. KD


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## kd460 (May 2, 2008)

OK, just realized that sucker is a solid bar! I'm sure it' nice and light! KD


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## Metals406 (May 2, 2008)

kd460 said:


> Excellent! Thanks, so it looks like you cut a taper in the pipe/bar and filled it with weld and ground it smooth? Next question, hardened steel tooth? I was considering a grade 5 or 8 bolt (ground smooth of course) and using that.
> 
> Thanks for the pics, it helps, gonna weld the rest of it up in the morning. KD



Nope, I cut a oblong piece out of the pipe flipped it over, welded it back in, and ground her smooth. I then cut another section off a scrap piece of pipe, and used that to transition back up toward the tooth. You have to make sure you're getting good weld penetration, or you'll grind the weld away, and have to do it again. The tooth is just a corner cut off of a 1/4"X3" piece of flat bar... No high carbon needed.


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## Metals406 (May 2, 2008)

kd460 said:


> OK, just realized that sucker is a solid bar! I'm sure it' nice and light! KD



Nope, it's pipe... Not solid. It is heavier than the average bear though. 

The hook is made from 7/8" solid hot roll.


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## kd460 (May 2, 2008)

OK, good deal gonna do the same. I've been using 7018ac rod on everything and will stick with it (ac welder). The pipe I am using is 3/16 inch thick walled pipe x 1.25 od should be strong enough.

I've got plenty of scraps for the teeth. Will post a pic when done. Did you find the cut out was necessary for proper function? Right now I just have straight pipe with no cut out. Thanks again, KD

EDIT: My hook is two 5/8ths cold rolled side by side welded together. It was a witch bending each piece with just some pry pipes and getting the two pieces to match up before welding. KD


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## country boy (May 2, 2008)

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/timberguy/misc112.jpgHere is some closeups of mine nothing fancy but works great http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/timberguy/misc111.jpg


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## country boy (May 2, 2008)

something else to add is to have something welded on so that the hook will not come all the way back to the handle prevents smashed fingers. I also beefed up the stand pretty good so when rolling logs you can use it for extra leverage i have stood on mine several times just keep your head off to one side in case it slips it may cause premature tooth loss.


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## Metals406 (May 2, 2008)

kd460 said:


> OK, good deal gonna do the same. I've been using 7018ac rod on everything and will stick with it (ac welder). The pipe I am using is 3/16 inch thick walled pipe x 1.25 od should be strong enough.
> 
> I've got plenty of scraps for the teeth. Will post a pic when done. Did you find the cut out was necessary for proper function? Right now I just have straight pipe with no cut out. Thanks again, KD
> 
> EDIT: My hook is two 5/8ths cold rolled side by side welded together. It was a witch bending each piece with just some pry pipes and getting the two pieces to match up before welding. KD



That sounds like 1" schedule 80?? Your wall is thicker than what I used... So it should be plenty strong. I bet the hook was hard to do... I cheated and used a bender. 

Yes, I found without the dish, the tooth didn't want to bite as good... But I could have just made the tooth longer--I just chose the hard way.


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## Metals406 (May 2, 2008)

country boy said:


> premature tooth loss.



You must be referring to rednecks... You said 'tooth loss'... Not 'teeth loss'.

Like Billy-Bob's momma told him at night, "NOW BILLY-BOB, don't be fo-gettin' to brush yo tooth before bed!"

LOL


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## beerman6 (May 2, 2008)

country boy said:


> something else to add is to have something welded on so that the hook will not come all the way back to the handle prevents smashed fingers.



+1 Great idea,my middle finger on the left hand is purple from that very thing happening...


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## country boy (May 2, 2008)

Metals406 said:


> You must be referring to rednecks... You said 'tooth loss'... Not 'teeth loss'.
> 
> Like Billy-Bob's momma told him at night, "NOW BILLY-BOB, don't be fo-gettin' to brush yo tooth before bed!"
> 
> LOL



 lol You crack me up!


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## Moddoo (May 2, 2008)

Metals406 said:


> I built this one last month...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



What's up with the disappearing gas can?
WOW


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## Metals406 (May 2, 2008)

Moddoo said:


> What's up with the disappearing gas can?
> WOW



Just simple picture animation... The gas can was there for scale.


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## ShoerFast (May 3, 2008)

Wonderful Work! 

They were a standard item in my grandfathers blacksmith shop,,,, Making them, repairing and re-handling them. 

My hat's off to any that try and make there own EQ , there it not a better feeling! 


But it's been mentioned, $100 frog skins is not a bad deal, or that $50 dollar used one,,,,but look at the opportunity to invent and experiment! 

Just a cutting tip for the 'have-nots' leaving a limb on every so far gives you a cheater (lever) if you plan your work well. Life is never perfect, but we can live it perfectly.


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## kd460 (May 3, 2008)

OK, on the home stretch. Got all my bits ready to weld (I think). Question: How much of an overlap do you guys have in regards to the pivoting hook and the fixed tooth on the bar. Right now, my pivoting hook tip meets eachother at the end of the bar (where the fixed tooth gets welded). 

All I need to do is cut the pipe a little shorter for the overlap, but how much and why? Currently I have them set up to meet. 

Won't get any welding done till this eve, but want to have it all ready to go. KD


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## ShoerFast (May 3, 2008)

kd460 said:


> OK, on the home stretch. Got all my bits ready to weld (I think). Question: How much of an overlap do you guys have in regards to the pivoting hook and the fixed tooth on the bar. Right now, my pivoting hook tip meets eachother at the end of the bar (where the fixed tooth gets welded).
> 
> All I need to do is cut the pipe a little shorter for the overlap, but how much and why? Currently I have them set up to meet.
> 
> Won't get any welding done till this eve, but want to have it all ready to go. KD



Just $0.02 cents worth, but tack it and span a few logs. 

The more over-lap the better the ratio of leverage the bite will have. 

Experiment!


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## husky455rancher (May 3, 2008)

how much is the upper arm supposed to move? i understand that they move wood but i still dont know how to use it lol. sorry its new to me i could make one also but i dont get how the top arm is supposed to move or how much.


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## woodbooga (May 8, 2008)

*oldie but goodies*

If the plans don't work out, try hitting antique and used shops. I see a few dozen a year at yard sales and junk shops. Probably run anywhere between $5-$50 depending on whose selling.


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