# How To Move The Chunked Tree



## Oldschooljeep48 (Jun 2, 2010)

I have a job comming up that is on the larger side of my capabilities but I am looking forward to the chalange of it. Its a Silver Maple that is 48"ish at the base and then like all silver maples, splits into multiple large trunks after the base 10' or so going up. The tree is in the back yard and im wondering what the best way to get it to the front is? 

I was thinking of cutting it up into 18" wide pices and having the guys haul it out front but whats the best way? I was thinking of getting a timber carrier or a skidding tong and have them use that? 

How do you all do it? Thanks!


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## lone wolf (Jun 2, 2010)

Oldschooljeep48 said:


> I have a job comming up that is on the larger side of my capabilities but I am looking forward to the chalange of it. Its a Silver Maple that is 48"ish at the base and then like all silver maples, splits into multiple large trunks after the base 10' or so going up. The tree is in the back yard and im wondering what the best way to get it to the front is?
> 
> I was thinking of cutting it up into 18" wide pices and having the guys haul it out front but whats the best way? I was thinking of getting a timber carrier or a skidding tong and have them use that?
> 
> How do you all do it? Thanks!


rip them into quarters.


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## NeoTree (Jun 2, 2010)

lone wolf said:


> rip them into quarters.



Or 6ths, lol, I had to do that a few weeks ago.


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## Damon (Jun 2, 2010)

i have cut wheels in things that big a few times and you can roll them like 6 inches thick or we have split the trunk into manageable pieces with a maul
its a silver so it will probabley split decent thats probabley what i would do, failing that cut it in haves or quarters and use a GOOD hand truck we often lay out 2x6s and build a walkway if its any distance which is easier on my guys, some times though i just higher cheap like8-10 bucks an hour college kids and turn them loose if you can get one forestry student and one engineer and a bunch of pot smoking hippies for grunts they'll figure out a way to get it out front, but hey if that fails and your having a hard time ripping it you can always buy a pound of pyrodex and split it the old fasioned way : P


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## Oldschooljeep48 (Jun 2, 2010)

So should I get some hooks or tongs to grab the logs better or just let them go at it? Looks like I need a BUNCH of Chain!


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## ATH (Jun 2, 2010)

It is amazing how much these weigh...you may already know, but just to make sure you are aware, those butt end pieces are going to need more than a heavy duty dolly...

Silver maple each foot of length weighs (looking at the the woodweb calculator):
30" diameter by 1' long weighs 236 lbs.
36" diameter by 1' long weighs 340 lbs.
40" = 420#
44" = 508#


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## NeoTree (Jun 2, 2010)

well....8ths then!!!?! That's alot of noodles 
If I was closer I would help out, atleast fill that engineering college student spot, lol


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## treemandan (Jun 2, 2010)

Rent a machine so you are not stuck there for days on end moving wood and making more saw dust, which is harder to move than the wood, and totally pissing off your crew?


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## Oldschooljeep48 (Jun 2, 2010)

treemandan said:


> Rent a machine so you are not stuck there for days on end moving wood and making more saw dust, which is harder to move than the wood, and totally pissing off your crew?



That may be the best advice so far...

I had no idea about the weight, i knew it was heavy but 500+lb per foot! Yikes! There is no room for a bobcat so maybe rentinga small "dingo" type of machine is best for this one.


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## brisawyer (Jun 3, 2010)

Rent something and cut the biggest pieces it can move. The time you save will offset the machine cost. I used to cut everything in firewood at the job. I did some big pines and used a machine and cut to the max size the machine would move. I was amazed at the time saved in sawing and cleaning up sawdust.We saved a whole day and our backs on that job. I would much rather whittle on firewood at home at my liesure than pushing to get a job done.


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## D&B Mack (Jun 3, 2010)

Oldschooljeep48 said:


> I have a job comming up that is on the larger side of my capabilities but I am looking forward to the chalange of it. Its a Silver Maple that is 48"ish at the base and then like all silver maples, splits into multiple large trunks after the base 10' or so going up. The tree is in the back yard and im wondering what the best way to get it to the front is?
> 
> I was thinking of cutting it up into 18" wide pices and having the guys haul it out front but whats the best way? I was thinking of getting a timber carrier or a skidding tong and have them use that?
> 
> How do you all do it? Thanks!



How much room do you have to get around to the back?

What is your situation with disturbing the existing lawn?


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## Oldschooljeep48 (Jun 3, 2010)

D&B Mack said:


> How much room do you have to get around to the back?
> 
> What is your situation with disturbing the existing lawn?



Well there is about 4' width at the narrowest spot that i have to get through. As far as the lawn, I need to fix whats really messed up. A few gouges heer and there, no problem. Skid steer tracks all over the lawn, I would need to top dress and reseed or something.


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## tree md (Jun 3, 2010)

You can put down some 4x8 plywood to avoid track damage to the lawn.

Once upon a time I could rent a bobcat for $125 a day or $500 by the week, have a 30 yard dumpster delivered for $90 and load every piece of wood in no time. That was many a moon ago and have no idea what rentals go for now.

Personally, I have a few guys who I am trying to keep working so I just work them and do it the old fashioned way. I'd rather pay them than rent equipment. I can bring anything I need to bear on a job including a crane but I will use man power all I can right now to try and keep guys working.


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## D&B Mack (Jun 3, 2010)

Oldschooljeep48 said:


> Well there is about 4' width at the narrowest spot that i have to get through. As far as the lawn, I need to fix whats really messed up. A few gouges heer and there, no problem. Skid steer tracks all over the lawn, I would need to top dress and reseed or something.



Small skid steer if you don't want to use the manpower, noodle them down if you do. One tree, 10' at 48", balance is manageable, shouldn't take that long by hand.


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## D&B Mack (Jun 3, 2010)

tree md said:


> You can put down some 4x8 plywood to avoid track damage to the lawn.
> 
> Once upon a time I could rent a bobcat for $125 a day or $500 by the week, have a 30 yard dumpster delivered for $90 and load every piece of wood in no time. That was many a moon ago and have no idea what rentals go for now.
> 
> Personally, I have a few guys who I am trying to keep working so I just work them and do it the old fashioned way. I'd rather pay them than rent equipment. I can bring anything I need to bear on a job including a crane but I will use man power all I can right now to try and keep guys working.



:agree2:

In the same boat...


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## ozzy42 (Jun 4, 2010)

I would noodle em up .
Size would depend on what you have the most of that day:saw power or back power.

2 cutters with good sharp saws: cut into 1/8ths and make it easy for the grunts.

1 cutter,1 saw: 1/4 them and tell the grunts OOY.


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## lone wolf (Jun 4, 2010)

ozzy42 said:


> I would noodle em up .
> Size would depend on what you have the most of that day:saw power or back power.
> 
> 2 cutters with good sharp saws: cut into 1/8ths and make it easy for the grunts.
> ...



Simple cheap fast and effective what are you waiting for?


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## fishercat (Jun 4, 2010)

*i got a compact tractor.*

with a front grapple.it's worth every penny.i didn't want a blown back when i'm 50.there is a pic of it on here somewhere.


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## Oldschooljeep48 (Jun 4, 2010)

I like the idea of a small loader or dingo to help haul stuff around. never though of a dumpster either, that would help out as I dont have to haul it away and it can take much more than my small trailer. I just need to decide whats worth keeping for fire wood vs the use of a dumpster. As I mentioned before, this is just a sidejob for me, so usally I keep the bigger stuff and it helps on my disposal cost. Maybe I just wont bother with it this time.

Would you rent a chipper and chip into the dumpster or just load up the smaller stuff not worring about volume so much? 

Thanks again for all your advice!


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## Tree Pig (Jun 4, 2010)

fishercat said:


> with a front grapple.it's worth every penny.i didn't want a blown back when i'm 50.there is a pic of it on here somewhere.




Yup here it is and sure does work well


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## Oldschooljeep48 (Jun 4, 2010)

Thats a nice machine! I dont think I can rent one of those around here. Maybe one day when I get my acreage.


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## 2FatGuys (Jun 4, 2010)

Oldschooljeep48 said:


> Would you rent a chipper and chip into the dumpster or just load up the smaller stuff not worring about volume so much?



Absolutely rent a decent chipper! You will GREATLY reduce your trips to dump debris. Our dump trailer can handle a LOT of chips (20yd volume). But with brush, even when "sliced and diced" in the trailer, we have to make a lot of trips to dump.


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## Ax-man (Jun 4, 2010)

I don't know if this one job is worth it but if you can afford to buy some kind of cart definately get one. It will save time and cutting. Most carts in the box stores really aren't up to the task of moving chunks of wood. The wheels are too small and the frames are too light. Best to have one that is made for this type of work. The beefiest looking cart in the store might get you by for one job. 

Laying down plywood helps on jobs like this to reduce the friction of wheels going over a lawn. Moving wood on plywood is so much easier and faster.

Try to keep ripping or noodling cuts to a minumum. These cuts are best made with a saw that has more torque than chainspeed. Rip type cuts require more time for sharpening and make more sawdust to clean up not too mention how hard it is on a saw. 

The bottom end of these multi stemmed Maples is the hardest to cut especially the stump cut. I have found these areas to contain embedded dirt and other treasures hidden in the crotches. Those last few cuts are always the hardest to get through and usually end up with dulled out saws by the time it is over with.


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## Oldschooljeep48 (Jun 4, 2010)

Ax-Man,

By cart do you meen like a ball cart, a flat nursery style wagon, or somehting different?


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## ozzy42 (Jun 4, 2010)

Stihl-O-Matic said:


> Yup here it is and sure does work well




That thing will make you fat and lazy.You should get rid of it as soon as possible.
PM me and i'll give you my shipping info.
I'm already 2/3 F&L ,that would be just enough to push me over the line.LOL.

Yeah,I like that.


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## 2FatGuys (Jun 4, 2010)

ozzy42 said:


> That thing will make you fat and lazy.You should get rid of it as soon as possible.
> PM me and i'll give you my shipping info.
> I'm already 2/3 F&L ,that would be just enough to push me over the line.LOL.



Forget Ozzy's bid... I'm already F&L... (see my name?). I WAY more qualified to sit on that than he is!


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## fishercat (Jun 5, 2010)

*i have had it for 4 years.*



ozzy42 said:


> That thing will make you fat and lazy.You should get rid of it as soon as possible.
> PM me and i'll give you my shipping info.
> I'm already 2/3 F&L ,that would be just enough to push me over the line.LOL.
> 
> Yeah,I like that.



it hasn't made me fat or lazy.just more productive without back problems at 40.

means i'll be working for many more years.


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## Ax-man (Jun 5, 2010)

Oldschooljeep48 said:


> Ax-Man,
> 
> By cart do you meen like a ball cart, a flat nursery style wagon, or somehting different?



A ball cart will work, stay away from the ones that have the curved bottom. Those do work but not as good as the other style with the flat square bottom or a regular log cart that you can buy from the catologs.

I have a regular ball cart from our landscaping days but I find it bulkier to use because of the width and can't carry multiple pieces of smaller wood on it as easy on it like I can with our present cart that I custom made. I still use the ball cart for big wood that my cart can't quite handle. We seldom need it anymore.

Here is the cart I custom made and beefed up from a basic utility cart and added a fold out lip like a luggage cart and a custom made axle mount to take on some weight. Works very good till we get into large logs over 30 in dia. It just hard to tilt it back with so much weight on it. I have always been meaning to get a beefier regular style log cart for that task to replace using the nursery style ball cart. 

This cart also has another feature that I made into it but you can't see it. Upright screw in pegs on the end of the fold out lip hold and move split firewood. 

I have always been meaning to get a small log arch to save cutting so many pieces and carting them out. Moving a four to eight foot long small diameter log out through a 36 inch yard gate would save time and cutting verses cutting into basically firewood lenghts and carting it out. 



Here are some pics to give you an idea of what to look for.


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