# Down goes the oak



## djtedald (Feb 21, 2009)

In a previous posting I showed some photos of the drop of a big hollow elm on my farm in Maryland. This time I had an equally large, although solid, oak on my farm in South Carolina. The tree had been dead for a few years and was starting to unexpectedly drop some big limbs into a horse paddock so it was time for it to go. In the first picture you can see my Schipperke posing with the Humbolt notch. I use the Humbolt whenever I take down a big tree. In this case the notch turned out a little ugly because I was using a 20” bar for a tree that probably required at least a 25” bar. I had to take the notch out in three sections, but in the end it worked perfectly. For me the Humbolt notch seems to be the best when accuracy of the drop is critical. For this drop I had to clear a small metal building to the left and a fenceline to the right and there wasn’t more than a few feet to spare on either side since I didn’t top off the tree. The second picture shows the notch and the saw, a little Stihl MS310. Initally, I roped the tree relatively low but in the end I was quite comfortable with the cuts and decided to skip the rope even with the tight clearances. Since this needed to be very much a controlled fall I bored the backcut, first completing the hinge section and then clearing the entire cut except for a retaining piece in the back. The biggest problem I find with boring the backcut is making sure that the line of the hinge is close enough but not too close. It takes practice. Sometimes the entire backcut is cleared and the tree doesn’t budge, even with wedges pounded in. At that point you need to bore in again along the hinge and sure enough it will release and away she goes. Anyway, back to this tree…so as I bored the cut I wedged the backcut as I progressed with a total of four wedges You can see the wedge placement in the photos especially the third photo where I’m making the final part of the back cut. In the final photo you can see the results. It was a perfect drop. My wife caught it on video on her camera phone and it was really pleasing how beautifully slow this tree went down.


----------



## H2C (Feb 22, 2009)

*Safe Landing*

dtjedald - Nice job and good placement. When no one gets hurt and nothing gets damaged it's an unqualified success! Thanks for sharing.


----------



## BuddhaKat (Feb 22, 2009)

Looks like a textbook job to me. Very nice indeed.

Other than that, you have too many farms. I'm jealous.


----------



## thejdman04 (Feb 22, 2009)

nice pics


----------



## Hansenj11 (Feb 22, 2009)

Nice Pics


----------



## ropensaddle (Feb 22, 2009)

djtedald said:


> In a previous posting I showed some photos of the drop of a big hollow elm on my farm in Maryland. This time I had an equally large, although solid, oak on my farm in South Carolina. The tree had been dead for a few years and was starting to unexpectedly drop some big limbs into a horse paddock so it was time for it to go. In the first picture you can see my Schipperke posing with the Humbolt notch. I use the Humbolt whenever I take down a big tree. In this case the notch turned out a little ugly because I was using a 20” bar for a tree that probably required at least a 25” bar. I had to take the notch out in three sections, but in the end it worked perfectly. For me the Humbolt notch seems to be the best when accuracy of the drop is critical. For this drop I had to clear a small metal building to the left and a fenceline to the right and there wasn’t more than a few feet to spare on either side since I didn’t top off the tree. The second picture shows the notch and the saw, a little Stihl MS310. Initally, I roped the tree relatively low but in the end I was quite comfortable with the cuts and decided to skip the rope even with the tight clearances. Since this needed to be very much a controlled fall I bored the backcut, first completing the hinge section and then clearing the entire cut except for a retaining piece in the back. The biggest problem I find with boring the backcut is making sure that the line of the hinge is close enough but not too close. It takes practice. Sometimes the entire backcut is cleared and the tree doesn’t budge, even with wedges pounded in. At that point you need to bore in again along the hinge and sure enough it will release and away she goes. Anyway, back to this tree…so as I bored the cut I wedged the backcut as I progressed with a total of four wedges You can see the wedge placement in the photos especially the third photo where I’m making the final part of the back cut. In the final photo you can see the results. It was a perfect drop. My wife caught it on video on her camera phone and it was really pleasing how beautifully slow this tree went down.



Alls good except for brain bucket a hard hat would have been a great idea. Anyway what state is Maryland county in


----------



## Jack_Shaft (Mar 1, 2009)

Nice, clean cut bud. I am always jealous at the perfectly flat cuts you guys make. I always end up running off a little bit, I think it's b/c I try to cut so close to the ground to get the most out of the tree.


----------



## Mikecutstrees (Mar 2, 2009)

Looks good, Some PPE would be a good idea though. And be very careful with trees that have two stems joined at the base like this one. When making the backcut they can split apart and the backside one can go in it's own direction. Hard to see how big that crack is in the picture but something to be aware of. Iv'e had it happen and believe me it a scary thing. Mike


----------



## JeffL (Mar 2, 2009)

Mikecutstrees said:


> Looks good, Some PPE would be a good idea though. And be very careful with trees that have two stems joined at the base like this one. When making the backcut they can split apart and the backside one can go in it's own direction. Hard to see how big that crack is in the picture but something to be aware of. Iv'e had it happen and believe me it a scary thing. Mike



We dont fell big wood much, but in this case, I either try and cut it as 2 seperate pieces of wood, or make the cut as low as possible to try to prevent the trunks seperating.


----------



## Engineeringnerd (Mar 2, 2009)

Nice job. I think your dog has a death wish!


----------



## djtedald (Mar 17, 2009)

We locked the dog in the cab of the truck during the final 5-10 minutes. Those little dogs are fast but maybe not fast enough. With regard to the double trunk...that did bother me before I started. I thought quite a bit about the splitting issue but close inspection revealed that there were no cracks (of course the inside always could be different). When the tree was finally cut into pieces on the ground my assumption was proven correct and it was solid, but the point is well taken. The head gear PPE is a good point and I've added it. Thanks.


----------



## Greg373 (Mar 21, 2009)

BuddhaKat said:


> Looks like a textbook job to me. Very nice indeed.
> 
> Other than that, you have too many farms. I'm jealous.



:agree2:


----------



## captjack (Mar 31, 2009)

Where are you in Maryland ?


----------



## arbadacarba (Apr 1, 2009)

Mikecutstrees said:


> Looks good, Some PPE would be a good idea though. And be very careful with trees that have two stems joined at the base like this one. When making the backcut they can split apart and the backside one can go in it's own direction. Hard to see how big that crack is in the picture but something to be aware of. Iv'e had it happen and believe me it a scary thing. Mike



Great advice Mike! The ppe goes without saying, but the split trees comment is fantastic. Be veerrry careful with these splits. One way to give yourself a little bit more of a chance (other than turning ninety degrees) is to cut from the edges of your notch to the center of the back on both sides, and then cut from the back listening carefully for any sounds of premature cracking. If you hear this get the hell out of there as fast as you can in a line with the split. The humbolt is also a good idea as it slightly lessens the chance of a barberchair or a separation. by reducing the back pressure as the tree begins to fall. 

Nice use of wedging and good cuts!


----------



## RandyMac (Apr 3, 2009)

You are a whittler, nothing wrong with that, keep at it until you are happy with it, then quit without overcutting. Overcutting to "fix" something isn't good. More is learned using a small saw on large trees than just using a large saw. Your angles are good, from what the pic shows, you left a clean hinge.

Small chainsaw, big tree= lots of fun.


----------



## tomtrees58 (Apr 3, 2009)

nice country wears your hard hat?????? you need some help with your notches that cut is to big the can go any wear till it meats the cut tom trees


----------



## Taxmantoo (Apr 3, 2009)

You're standing under a dead tree that likes to drop large limbs, but I don't see you looking up while you cut on it.


----------



## RandyMac (Apr 4, 2009)

Undercuts are about how a tree falls, not just where, the hinge takes care of where. Take a tree that needs to be felled down a steep slope, a wide angle will keep the tree on the stump longer, keeping it from twisting or doing other funny stuff. Uphill falls are the opposite, you want the tree well off the stump before it hits the ground, a narrow undercut is indicated.
The angle that djtedald used was good for what and where he was cutting. He was falling a heavy tree with a large crown, by looking at the pics, it appeared to have fallen without much twisting, that was the function of a wide angle undercut.
Take your time, scope it out, get a feel for what you want the tree to do, and you will most likely get it right. As for the hardhat, good idea, looking up especially on the backcut is required.
Yeah, I know, I don't always put the tin lid on, photographic proof is posted, I'm a knothead.


----------



## Treetom (Apr 18, 2009)

RandyMac said:


> You are a whittler, nothing wrong with that, keep at it until you are happy with it, then quit without overcutting. Overcutting to "fix" something isn't good. More is learned using a small saw on large trees than just using a large saw. Your angles are good, from what the pic shows, you left a clean hinge.
> 
> Small chainsaw, big tree= lots of fun.



Nice job Djt. RandyMac: Is that a cs452 Echo you're cutting that tree with?


----------



## RandyMac (Apr 22, 2009)

Sorry to reply late, That is a 302 Echo with a 14" bar.


----------



## Roteiche (Apr 25, 2009)

Much work for a "little" chainsaw.
Nice pics.


----------



## Treetom (Apr 27, 2009)

RandyMac said:


> Sorry to reply late, That is a 302 Echo with a 14" bar.


The feature I liked most about those old Echos was the top-mounted adjustable oiler, as well as the thumb-operated manual oiler, a feature that came in handy on those big-azz cuts like in the pic. Too bad no chain brake included.


----------

