# help! stihl 031av problem



## usmc50bmgsniper (May 17, 2004)

just purchased a stihl 031av for $20 and this thing is in mint condition, here is the problem, the saw will start up on the first or second pull but it won't rev up to full rpms and just boggs when you open the throttle up, but sometimes it will rev up when you cycle the throttle but it always goes back to bogging down. here is what i did to it, changed the gas tank filter, cleaned and set carb, the spark plug isn't running to rich or lean either so i'm confused on why it won't rev up, would bad seals cause this? please help!! would hate to get rid of this nice saw but if no one can help then it's of to ebay for the ole 031


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## Kenskip1 (May 17, 2004)

USMC,
This might be a wild shot but it seems as if you are not getting enough fuel. Could the gas line be kinked? Have you opened the Low speed jet side of this saw? The way to tell the Low from the high, is simply,the Low Speed jet is closest to the cylinder.Try and open it up, (counterclockwise) a quarter turn. HAve you checked the gas line for holes? It may be drawing in air someplace. Keep me posted, Ken!


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## cbfarmall (May 17, 2004)

I agree with Kenskip. Somehow you're starving for fuel. Cycling the throttle allows the intake vacuum to jump, sucking fuel a little harder through the carb. If you can get the saw to idle well and consistently I doubt you have an airleak. Never hurts to change to impulse line. I hear these saws are notorious for having bad ones.

Here's my 031.

Chris B.


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## usmc50bmgsniper (May 17, 2004)

*stihl 031 problem*

sorry guys the problem is still there, i just got done putting it back together and the problem is still there, no kinked lines, the lines all looked good, i took them off and stuck my finger over the other end and blew into it and it seemed to be airtight, i started both the high and low screws at 1 1/2 turns out and fiddled with them while it was running but it still bogged down. it would rev up sometimes but most of the time it would bogg, it would seem rev up more often when i would lean the low screw out but it was almost tightened up the whole ways and i didn't want to seize my saw. i pulled the plug a few times and some times it was soaked and sometimes it was white and i know that white is real bad and running to lean on a 2 stroke, it was never running a nice golden brown like a 2 stroke should well i guess that is how they should run because i have been running and jetting 2 stroke dirtbikes for many years so to me a 2 stroke is a 2 stroke but i could be wrong any more help would be greatly appreciated because if i can't get it fixed soon then off to ebay it goes


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## usmc50bmgsniper (May 17, 2004)

*stihl 031 problem*

i was thinking that myself, the plug isn't new and probablly is the original bosh plug. what champion plug is interchangable with the bosh?


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## JimL (May 17, 2004)

*Re: stihl 031 problem*



> _Originally posted by usmc50bmgsniper _
> *i was thinking that myself, the plug isn't new and probablly is the original bosh plug. what champion plug is interchangable with the bosh? *



sounds to me like a set of points and condensor is on the order, 

out o time.


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## Kenskip1 (May 17, 2004)

USMC,
Rocky squirrel has the right idea. Simply you do not have a hot enough spark to ignight the mixture. This is evidant when you pulled the plug out and it was wet.Does the saw have points or electronic ignition? If you get this ignition problem solved you should have a real runner.
However on the latter side, if you only paid 20$ for this saw you may have to spend mabie three times this for a trip to the dealer. Keep me posted, Ken


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## stihltech (May 17, 2004)

*ignition*

May be a job for an aftermarket ignition module. Just remember this is the saw you need to switch the positive and negative wires on the module to get the timing to advance correctly.

Did you put a kit in the carb? Did you remove the welch plugs and clean under them?
The rear of the top handle frame must be solid or it will kink the fuel hose. Ditto if the hose is too long. If the hose is too short it will pull it off. Check seal under oil pump gear, pin that drives gear under clutch sometimes wears thru and then wears thru seal. Also, if the garter spring came off back of seal lip, it will suck vacuum but hold pressure, causing this problem.

Make sure plug wire is not pinched into cylinder fins.

Hope that gives you something to go on.


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## JimL (May 17, 2004)

*Re: ignition*



> _Originally posted by stihltech _
> *May be a job for an aftermarket ignition module. Just remember this is the saw you need to switch the positive and negative wires on the module to get the timing to advance correctly.
> 
> Did you put a kit in the carb? Did you remove the welch plugs and clean under them?
> ...



Sounds like youve worked on a few of these? 

They are killing parts for these things fast. Oil cap is nla, looked one up today.
Had a junker. or several of them.


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## stihltech (May 18, 2004)

*031*

one of the saws I learned on.


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## philwarner (Jan 8, 2009)

cbfarmall said:


> I agree with Kenskip. Somehow you're starving for fuel. Cycling the throttle allows the intake vacuum to jump, sucking fuel a little harder through the carb. If you can get the saw to idle well and consistently I doubt you have an airleak. Never hurts to change to impulse line. I hear these saws are notorious for having bad ones.
> 
> Here's my 031.
> 
> Chris B.



This is an old thread, but I just spent an afternoon cleaning the carb on my own 031AV and its symptoms are similar to the one in this thread. It will start and idle all day and will rev up freely as if it is ready to go, but when I put it in a cut, it will die in about 4 seconds. After it dies I can start it again it will idle as long as I let it. I took out the pickup filter, blew through it, and it does not seem to be plugged and while the carb was out, I tried sucking fuel through the line at the carb end and got fuel flow. I had replaced the fuel line and the impulse tube last year, but I have never replaced the points or even set them and I've owned the saw from new. It is just recently that it started dying in a cut as if it was not getting enough gas. Could worn points cause these symptoms? Is it a hard job to get to the points? Any advice will be appricated as I have a large oak that I need to cut and it is too big for any of my 015s. The 015s are great little saws for an old man to handle, but the 031AV is the standby for heavier work; I even have a 36 inch bar and chain for it for the really big stuff.


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## Fish (Jan 8, 2009)

Take apart the fuel filter and inspect the foam insert. If you don't find one, then it has long disintegrated, and a proper carb rebuild /going through is in order first..


What ever happened to ole Stihltech???


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## flyboy (Jan 8, 2009)

I would rebuild the carb (either a Walbro WA (k10 kit) or Tillotson HU3C). At the very least replace the metering gasket and make sure the little lever in there is level with the inside of the carb. 

I have had much better luck setting the carb at 1 1/4 for low and 1 1/8 for high to start. 

I bet you are way too rich and gummed the plug a bit. I believe the champion plug is a rcj7y.


I have had plenty of problems with ethanol fuel in my 2 031s....so I get 100LL from the airport now and mix it 50:1 with stihl oil. Ethanol was eating my metering gaskets very quickly (1 month tops).


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## flyboy (Jan 8, 2009)

If you decide you need a new condensor...you can substitue a polyester film capacitor. 0.22uF 630Volt.(you may be able to get away with a 400Volt cap and it will be smaller and easier to mount). The capacitor definately needs to be a polyester film because they can take a lot more instantaneous current than other caps. Polyester film caps are not polarized (either lead can be + or - without damage).

Vishay and Wima both make nice ones. I just soldered leads on them and installed them under the flywheel. You need the special flywheel puller to get that off. cheapstihlparts on ebay has them and they work exceedingly well.


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## flyboy (Jan 8, 2009)

philwarner said:


> This is an old thread, but I just spent an afternoon cleaning the carb on my own 031AV and its symptoms are similar to the one in this thread. It will start and idle all day and will rev up freely as if it is ready to go, but when I put it in a cut, it will die in about 4 seconds. After it dies I can start it again it will idle as long as I let it. I took out the pickup filter, blew through it, and it does not seem to be plugged and while the carb was out, I tried sucking fuel through the line at the carb end and got fuel flow. I had replaced the fuel line and the impulse tube last year, but I have never replaced the points or even set them and I've owned the saw from new. It is just recently that it started dying in a cut as if it was not getting enough gas. Could worn points cause these symptoms? Is it a hard job to get to the points? Any advice will be appricated as I have a large oak that I need to cut and it is too big for any of my 015s. The 015s are great little saws for an old man to handle, but the 031AV is the standby for heavier work; I even have a 36 inch bar and chain for it for the really big stuff.





The way I understand it is that a condenser keeps the points from arching. You could start the saw with the sights off of the flywheel and the screws out of the pull starter and at night. Rev the saw up and see if you can detect any arching. If so, time for a condensor.


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## philwarner (Jan 14, 2009)

Fish said:


> Take apart the fuel filter and inspect the foam insert. If you don't find one, then it has long disintegrated, and a proper carb rebuild /going through is in order first..



I disassembled the pickup filter; the foam is intact and everything looks clean inside. I think I replaced it a few years ago when I replaced the fuel line to the carb. To check the fuel line I attached a vacuum gage at the pickup end and a Mity-vac to the carb end; it holds a vacuum at the carb end, but I get no vacuum reading on the pickup end. I can blow from the carb end and get 2 PSI pressure reading on the vacuum gage at the pickup and it holds if I seal off the tube, but I can't get the gage to show a vacuum even if I pull 20 inches of Hg at the carb end. Is there a check valve in the fuel line and if so how can it get any gas to even idle?

I disassembled both ends of the carb and blew air through the needle jets; everything there looked squeaky clean and there are no leaks in the diaphragm I can detect. I still need to check the points. Is there an on-line repair manual for these models that describes how to get to the points? I have the original owner's book and it does have exploded views, but no repair info beyond carb adjustment.


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## flyboy (Jan 14, 2009)

http://www.mediafire.com/file/dnwykggj3jy/Workshop Manual Stihl 031 032.pdf

http://www.mediafire.com/file/yodmznt4zmn/stihl carburetor manual.pdf

http://www.mediafire.com/file/ufztmc...WalbroCarb.pdf


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## philwarner (Jan 15, 2009)

*031AV manual links and soft fuel line*

Thanks for the links, flyboy. I am downloading the manual as I type this. I discovered yesterday that I can blow either way through the fuel line and used compressed air to blow some Gum-out both ways, but I can't suck air from the tank side to the carb and the tank fuel line is very soft.

I think ethanol has softened the line to the point it collapses if the vacuum is too high and while it would still idle and rev when I put it back together, it dies after a few seconds in a high speed cut. Looking at a new fuel line on-line and will call around locally to see if anyone has one on hand. I sure hope that is all it is, but these manuals will go into my chain saw binder for the future.

Thanks again, Phil


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## philwarner (Jan 15, 2009)

*manual link OK - Carb links invalid*



flyboy said:


> http://www.mediafire.com/file/dnwykggj3jy/Workshop Manual Stihl 031 032.pdf
> 
> http://www.mediafire.com/file/yodmznt4zmn/stihl carburetor manual.pdf
> 
> http://www.mediafire.com/file/ufztmc...WalbroCarb.pdf



I got the 031/032 manual fine, but both carb manual links return an error message that it is an invalid file.


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## flyboy (Jan 15, 2009)

I have had much difficulty with ethanol fuel..

I go to the local airport and get 100LL avgas. I cannot recommend this enough. 100LL will keep for a solid year or two. Also, it has a much much better smell than auto gas.....and not 1 single drop of ethanol.

Here is your carb link.....

http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/WAseries.pdf


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## philwarner (Jan 16, 2009)

Thanks again. flyboy,

I assume from your signature that you are familiar with avgas for uses other than chain saws. I got the Walbro manual and also found a Tillotson HU manual at http://www.tillotson-fuelsystems.com/manuals.html

I learned from them that I should have taken the metering needle out too while I had the carb apart. Guess I need to put in a kit and do that, especially if a new fuel line doesn't fix the problem.

All gas sold in Missouri where we usually shop is at least 10% ethanol by law, but I've since found one in Arkansas that carries 100% gas in one of the pumps and that's what I use now in all my small engines. Makes you wonder how much ethanol has really cost folks in addition to those studies saying that it takes more dino oil to produce ethanol than the energy it provides in fuel. I know it has screwed up several of my small engines including this nice Stihl chainsaw that I've owned from new in 1977.


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## davidgpo (Jan 16, 2009)

While it's apart is it possible to intall lines that are resistant to ethanol fuels?:monkey:


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## flyboy (Jan 16, 2009)

davidgpo said:


> While it's apart is it possible to intall lines that are resistant to ethanol fuels?:monkey:



My experience ist that the ethanol messes up my metering gaskets in both the Walbro WA and the Tillotson HU3C.


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## flyboy (Jan 16, 2009)

philwarner said:


> Thanks again. flyboy,
> 
> I assume from your signature that you are familiar with avgas for uses other than chain saws. I got the Walbro manual and also found a Tillotson HU manual at http://www.tillotson-fuelsystems.com/manuals.html
> 
> ...





I am a low time private pilot.....so I use avgas for that.

If you have a walbro, you need the K10 kit. It sounds like you need a fuel line.

My dad bought one of the 031s I have new in Feb 76. He still has the receipt. I think it was the MS361 of that day because his friends were in awe of it.


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## philwarner (Jan 17, 2009)

*ethanol resistant fuel lines*



davidgpo said:


> While it's apart is it possible to intall lines that are resistant to ethanol fuels?:monkey:



David, the small line from the tank to the carb is just a straight small diameter line and can be anything that fits, but the in-tank line is a molded line with large diameter ends and a small diameter between; I have to go with whatever Stihl supplies.


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## Duke M (Jan 30, 2009)

philwarner said:


> This is an old thread, but I just spent an afternoon cleaning the carb on my own 031AV and its symptoms are similar to the one in this thread. It will start and idle all day and will rev up freely as if it is ready to go, but when I put it in a cut, it will die in about 4 seconds. After it dies I can start it again it will idle as long as I let it. I took out the pickup filter, blew through it, and it does not seem to be plugged and while the carb was out, I tried sucking fuel through the line at the carb end and got fuel flow. I had replaced the fuel line and the impulse tube last year, but I have never replaced the points or even set them and I've owned the saw from new. It is just recently that it started dying in a cut as if it was not getting enough gas. Could worn points cause these symptoms? Is it a hard job to get to the points? Any advice will be appricated as I have a large oak that I need to cut and it is too big for any of my 015s. The 015s are great little saws for an old man to handle, but the 031AV is the standby for heavier work; I even have a 36 inch bar and chain for it for the really big stuff.


Had basicly same problem with my 031 ,changed to a atom module ( but I didnt reverse wires and ran great ) it would bog at fast speeds and idled rough ,couldnt adjust carb and carb was rebuilt ...so honed it put in new rings ...problem solved runs great ...bottom ring is for fuel and fuel was getting past bot ring when I took saw apart and looked in exhaut port and moved piston u could see slop in ring ,so maybe if u dont seem to have enough spark to burn fuel ,it could be hot enough but ur bottom ring could be weak ,it was easy to rering and made a world of difference ,but if u want to sell that old saw contact me thanks


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## philwarner (Feb 3, 2009)

*031AV soft fuel line*



Duke M said:


> Had basicly same problem with my 031 ,changed to a atom module ( but I didnt reverse wires and ran great ) it would bog at fast speeds and idled rough ,couldnt adjust carb and carb was rebuilt ...so honed it put in new rings ...problem solved runs great ...bottom ring is for fuel and fuel was getting past bot ring when I took saw apart and looked in exhaut port and moved piston u could see slop in ring ,so maybe if u dont seem to have enough spark to burn fuel ,it could be hot enough but ur bottom ring could be weak ,it was easy to rering and made a world of difference ,but if u want to sell that old saw contact me thanks



Thanks for the reply, Duke. The new old stock 031 fuel line from ebay seems to have solved my saw's problem; I did have a scare because when I first installed it the small line from the elbow to the carb got kinked in re-assembly and it wouldn't run at all at first, but a second time of pulling the top cover and snipping a bit off the small line's length eased the kink and got the gas flowing again and I made a dozen cuts through an 18 inch diameter log without any problems. I had anticipated putting a kit in the carb, but so far have not; apparently the carb diaphragms are less susceptible to being softened by the ethanol than the rubber fuel line.

A friend who had to take a generator engine to a small engine repair place was told that half the shop's business now is from ethanol caused failures; when it takes 8 gallons of dino gas to plant, harvest, and process the corn to make 10 gallons of ethanol it sure doesn't seem like a good idea for anyone except the farmers and ethanol producers (and maybe the small engine repair guys).


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## PatrickIreland (Feb 3, 2009)

A friend of mine, hippy type drives nothing but air cooled VWs. He thought for some reason that he was doing the world a favour by getting 10% ethanol gas. 6 months later - every fuel line dead, every bit of the carb that wasn't metal rotted out. He works on them for a living, so it wasn't a huge deal for him to replace them - but he no longer buys the stuff. Still a hippy though.:love1:
Spread the love, people!


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## philwarner (Feb 5, 2009)

PatrickIreland said:


> A friend of mine, hippy type drives nothing but air cooled VWs. He thought for some reason that he was doing the world a favour by getting 10% ethanol gas. 6 months later - every fuel line dead, every bit of the carb that wasn't metal rotted out. He works on them for a living, so it wasn't a huge deal for him to replace them - but he no longer buys the stuff. Still a hippy though.:love1:
> Spread the love, people!



I'm sure we will never know the total cost of this ethanol idea in lost time, parts replaced, and frustration over breakdowns from ruined fuel line components, but I bet it would far exceed any benefits and probably even exceed the cost of bailing out the wall street and banking fat cats which is also coming out of our pockets. I seldom hear the lower energy content and reduced gas mileage of ethanol addressed let alone the damage it does to older cars and small engines.


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## crzyhorse (Feb 11, 2009)

*Polar opposites*

I seem to be having a different problem than you all. I can start my saw on the first, second pull. My 031 electronic problems seems to be when the saw heats up I need to keep it at full throttle to it running. If it cuts off, I have to wait for it to cool down. When I first start it it will idle just fine, but if it heats up while idling it will cause the same problem. Someone was trying to tell me its a vacuum problem with the impulse hose, or the ignition. But if it was the ignition it wouldn't let me keep it at full blast no? It will cut like a beast while hot, but if it loses some rpms it will cut off. On another note someone tried to tell me you can fix a scored piston and cylinder, but I always thought once scored its trash. And last but not least it would be nice to give this saw a good thorough through, you all know of a good website to get the gaskets from? Any help will be greatly appreciated


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## frecato (Mar 23, 2009)

flyboy said:


> http://www.mediafire.com/file/dnwykggj3jy/Workshop Manual Stihl 031 032.pdf
> 
> http://www.mediafire.com/file/yodmznt4zmn/stihl carburetor manual.pdf
> 
> http://www.mediafire.com/file/ufztmc...WalbroCarb.pdf



Hi flyboy I am a newbie and just purchased a Stihl 031 AV from craigslist and was looking for the service manual. I was able to download last 2 files but the manual would not download for me, any way you can send it to me? Thanks.


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## flyboy (Mar 23, 2009)

frecato said:


> Hi flyboy I am a newbie and just purchased a Stihl 031 AV from craigslist and was looking for the service manual. I was able to download last 2 files but the manual would not download for me, any way you can send it to me? Thanks.




It is 27MB. Too big to email.


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## frecato (Mar 23, 2009)

flyboy said:


> It is 27MB. Too big to email.



Oh ok. I will try on another computer. Do you know if that link should still work?


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## K5krawler (May 31, 2009)

*Tillotson HU3C*

Wanted to ask if anybody has had a NO-Start issue with the HU3C carb? It will run if fuel is manually fed across the throttle plate, However, will not pick up fuel itself. Now a few things I have done with no sings of the issue getting any better.
1. Cleaned Air filter and Disassembled carb. No real signs of anything seriously wrong however I feel the diaphragms are bad in the saw. (have seen bad diaphragms before in similar carbs).
2. Checked for obstructions in fuel lines. Fuel will enter carb with no problems. 
3. Cleaned and checked fuel filter. 
Any thoughts on if you guys think the carb needs rebuilt?


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## Fish (May 31, 2009)

Remove the needle and hold the carb up to a light, see if you can see light through that passage.


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## Rookie1 (May 31, 2009)

Id totally clean the carb really well. Then clean it again. Put a rebuild kit in it. New fuel linesand filter,Fish will tell you about old style foam filters breaking down, and impulse line. If that doesnt help then Id look elsewhere.


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## K5krawler (Jun 1, 2009)

Did more cleaning today. Off to Mr. Stihl for some parts for the Carb. Hopefully he can get them, if not...ripoffbay.


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## K5krawler (Jun 6, 2009)

*Saw is now running*

Well, I got the carb kit and rebuilt it after work on Friday. Adjusted the screws 1 turn out and it fired right up. It took a few tweeks of the H needle to get it where it needed to be, but it runs now! Next I need a tach to tune in the saw while it is running. Does anybody have a max RPM for the saw?


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## petepetersen (May 5, 2010)

I am having this porblem too and have found this thread very helpful . Is there any other fuel line that can be substituted that is more ethanol resistant ? Car kits too (maybe for other brands that have similar parts). - Thanks


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## hvedlj (Jun 26, 2010)

*old Stihl 031 Impulse line*

I'm new here and I'm not sure if I'm posting in the right place.

I have found a lot of good information regarding my Stihl 031 in this forum. What I couldn't find was how necessary is it to use a stock impulse line on my saw. I replaced it with standard fuel line tubing and I am still having problems. It doesn't seem like it would matter since it just transferring a vacuum.

Thanks for your help.


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## Rookie1 (Jun 26, 2010)

Welcome to AS first. Now I say its OK to do that. Some here may not like it. I believe tygon,the yellow seethru stuff may flex some but should work fine. What is the problem?


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## hvedlj (Jun 26, 2010)

Thanks Rookie1,

It doesn't want to start very easy and then when it does start it only runs for 10-20 seconds. I replaced the spark plug, fuel lines (except for the in-tank fuel line), in-tank filter and rebuilt the carburetor.

One other thing I have been mulling around is the fuel mixture ratio. This about a 35 yr old saw. I've seen recommendations for 50:1, 40:1 and 25:1. I'm using a 50:1 mix with poulan oil. Could this be the problem?

Thanks


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## flyboy (Jun 26, 2010)

50:1 using any Stihl or Husqvarna oil is fine. That is what I use in my 031's. It is not your problem.

My bet is you left it with fuel in it for more than a month. If so, rebuild the carb, either a Walbro WA, or a Tillotson HU3C. If it is the WA, then you need a k10WAT kit (about $5 shipped on ebay). Either way, clean the carb and go from there.

My plan for cleaning carbs is as follows: Buy a bottle of carb cleaner. Dump half to 2/3 of the carb cleaner in my truck. Cut the top off the bottle. Take the carb apart and put the entire carb into the carb cleaner bottle. Leave it overnight. Remove carb from cleaner and blow it all out with compressed air. Reassemble the carb with new gaskets.

The ethanol that the idiot politicians mandate be in gasoline likely destroyed the metering gasket in the carb.


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## hvedlj (Jun 26, 2010)

Thanks Flyboy,

I have already rebuilt the carburetor as you suggested. The only thing that I didn't do was soak the carb in in the carb cleaner overnight. My carb actually looked pretty pristine. I did shoot carb cleaner thru every orifice and blew it out with air. I even removed the whelch (sp?) plug, cleaned the holes and replugged.


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## wellsy (Oct 11, 2010)

*Fuel Problems*

I had the same problem recently with my 30 year old, well used 031av.
After trying out just about everything, including a carby rebuild, it turned out that the rubber line that connects the carby to the crankcase had deteriorated and wasn't forming an airtight seal with the carby connector, thus not enough fuel getting to the carbuettor.
Very simple fix; new rubber hose.

Regards,
wellsy


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## dingeryote (Oct 11, 2010)

Wellsy,

Good ta have ya postin'. 

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## petepetersen (Nov 18, 2010)

My Stihl 031AV Electronic has the Tillotson HU3C carburetor. The link for the manual for that one posted earlier is no longer working .

Also it is not clear to me how to replace the impulse hose . Where does connect to the engine ? Maybe I overlooked it in the Sthil 031 032 manual here but I would appreciate some tips in replacing it . I don't want to disassemble anything that I don't have to . 

Also is there anything one can do to minimize the the ethanol deterioration of "rubber" fuel lines and carb parts ( ie- add Stabil ? run fuel out ? etc ? ) 

- Thanks


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## K5krawler (Apr 2, 2012)

*Just looking for help*

[video=youtube_share;jllLmAK2ziw]http://youtu.be/jllLmAK2ziw[/video]

Hoping I can get this video out there to see why the saw is stalling out at full RPM. I am at a little bit of a stopping point with trying to trouble shoot this saw. The problem is 1/2 way through the cut it starts to die out and stall (I am waiting for my video to upload as I am posting this). Hopefully, the video shows more detail of the issue that I am having but does something like this sound like a points issue under heavy load? Nothing has changed on this saw since I posted my last video of the saw running.

I should note that I did rebuild the carb with new pieces parts and a new fuel filter. I did have somewhat of a kink in the fuel line coming out of the tank but I got that straightened out and the issue didn't go away.


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