# Northern Hyd grinder, making it work (pics)



## Butch(OH) (Dec 13, 2006)

When I pick up a tool (or anything else) made in China I expect that I will need to do some finish work that really should have been done at the factory. The Northern chain grinder is no exception but was better than most of my other chinatool experiences and I believe it will do the job. In general the tool is much better fit and finish than I expected with the worst problems being burrs and blasting sand in the vise swivels and an under (read non) engineered chain stop. Here is the work I did and it took longer to type this than to do the work.

1. The vise adjustments were very rough and here is the reason for one of them, the base casting. Notice the shiny area where the vise base slides on the casting? It wasn't that way as shipped, very rough. 1 minute and a sheet of 320 backed by a block leveled the paint and rough casting to this condition.
<IMG SRC=http://tinypic.com/2qd8umg.jpg>

2, Reason number two for vise problems was the aluminum swivel base had been sand blasted. Sand blasted parts dont slide, especially when sand is still on parts. A brushing removed the sand and an old sharpening stone smoothed both the flat and radial surfaces. 320 and an old file would have done the same thing. Again you not after perfection here, just to smooth out the sandblasting a bit.
<IMG SRC=http://tinypic.com/2ilkf8y.jpg>

3. Third reason for vise problems is flip side of same part. Same sand blasted finish and wont slide against top part of vise. Fix is 320 paper and fingers with sanding in the direction of movement.
<IMG SRC=http://tinypic.com/2ltke8p.jpg>
4. Assembling tip, slightly grease the base before placing on the base casting and note two balls placed in recesses and screwdriver pointed at springs. Grease springs to hold in place while assembling. I greased this just a bit but may regret it later if wheel dust gets in there.
<IMG SRC=http://tinypic.com/30rp82g.jpg>
5. Slop in chain stop. There is a step in the shaft under my fingers and the nut is supposed to keep the stop up on the larger part of the shaft but it cant do that because of the step in the thumb nut. The slop created then causes a "spongy" stop. The fix is to get rid of the recess in the nut by filing flat.
<IMG SRC=http://tinypic.com/400uogg.jpg>

6. Another reason for chain stop slop is the cap screw at the bottom of the stop was not tight enough. a quarter turn tightened the stop on mine but with China tollarances may not repair others?
<IMG SRC=http://tinypic.com/2hyxn44.jpg>

My impressions? The grinder ranks up there with the best of China's knock off tools. I was able to produce a razer sharp chain on my first try and I have never run a grinder before. If you understand what you are doing with a file and how it makes your chains cut then pitch the confusing instructions and you will have the thing adjusted in 2 minutes. 

For $100 vs what $300? or so Ill spend 5 minutes with a file and a sheet of 320 paper. I am happy. Didn't have time to measure things up for the Oregon engineer, too late tonight. maybe tomorrow.


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## Urbicide (Dec 13, 2006)

Very good post Butch. Excellent pictures and explanations. I wonder how many of these grinders AS members have bought. I am kind of thinking of getting one primarily to do depth gauges.opcorn:


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## RaisedByWolves (Dec 14, 2006)

EXCELLENT post!



You and I could be brothers with the way we treat our newtoys, just gotts take it apart and "Fix" it before using it. 



Just as you expected, you will regret greasing the springs. Its a good trick and one I use often, but it will hold the grit in this case.




Are the balls there to indicate center? "0"?



And please tell me the color in your pics is off? If not I may have to buy some orange spray paint!


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 14, 2006)

Good work Butch!


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## RiverRat2 (Dec 14, 2006)

*Ditto on the good post butch!!!!*

Great pics, I need me one of them


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## drmiller100 (Dec 14, 2006)

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!

mine is supposedly in the mail on its way here!!!!!!!111


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## tawilson (Dec 14, 2006)

Good work, Butch. I mentioned in the other thread about the vise being hard to move. I'll give your fix a whirl. I also had to take the locking lever off to give the backer nut a tightening. I lost the spring clip in the process, but it seems to work ok. I also was surprised how well my chain cut for a novice grinder.


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## Haywire Haywood (Dec 14, 2006)

RaisedByWolves said:


> And please tell me the color in your pics is off?



Mine is much darker.

Ian


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## 314epw (Dec 14, 2006)

*grinder*

greta way to save money and get some quality work done!Good job!
Ed


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## ASEMASTER (Dec 14, 2006)

*good thread*

as always were looking for the ultimate tweak to get to perfection.
I prefer a file myself.


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## Butch(OH) (Dec 14, 2006)

RaisedByWolves said:


> EXCELLENT post!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



OK, I'll clean the grease out Yes the balls are at zero and the color is off some but not a lot.


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## computeruser (Dec 14, 2006)

Looks like you got a good setup going there for your $108! 

And I agree with RBW, you did a SUPERB job of documenting the updates/improvements/fixes that you performed on the grinder. I know some folks are on dial-up, but I'm not and I sure do like posts with lots of high-quality pictures to accompany the text. Keep up the good work!!


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## danl (Dec 15, 2006)

I went home and sanded on mine, per Butch's instructions. Rotates a whole lot better. My locking lever kept backing off the nut also, so I took it apart and sanded the shaft before I tightened the nut up good. I didn't even lose the retaining spring . I think I'm going to measure that shaft and replace the spring with an e-clip or something.

I sharpened a old chain that didn't need the 10 deg. angle and it seemed to do a good job, didn't turn the chain blue and didn't bog the motor at all. I just bumped it gradually, I didn't just shove down and grind away.

I still aint clear on how to set the 10 deg. angle, could you splain again??????

Thanks
Dan


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## Butch(OH) (Dec 15, 2006)

danl said:


> I went home and sanded on mine, per Butch's instructions. Rotates a whole lot better. My locking lever kept backing off the nut also, so I took it apart and sanded the shaft before I tightened the nut up good. I didn't even lose the retaining spring . I think I'm going to measure that shaft and replace the spring with an e-clip or something.
> 
> I sharpened a old chain that didn't need the 10 deg. angle and it seemed to do a good job, didn't turn the chain blue and didn't bog the motor at all. I just bumped it gradually, I didn't just shove down and grind away.
> 
> ...



OK, think about hand filing. Some chain you are supposed to keep the file flat (90 degrees to the bar) Some are at 10 degrees (file handle down). To get the 10 degrees with the grinder requires the third axis movement that is built into the vise itself, see picture #4 above. In other words your 60 degree side angle is set by angling the entire grinder head at the back of the machine. The 30 or 25 degree top angle is with the swiveling vise and the 0 or 10 degree angle is set within the vise itself. You loosen the hand nut under the vise and push or pull it to the stops either side of the zero detent balls. Which way you move it depends on which cutters you are working on, rights or lefts, always tilt it so the leading point of the cutter is tilted down. This is what replicates the lowering of the file handle down 10 degrees when hand filing. Clear as mud yet? sorry, I can post another pic if need be later tonight.

I'm feeling a little stupid here acting like a chain grinder 'spert when I have owned one for three whole days, maybe one of the real sperts could chime in here and explain better??


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## tawilson (Dec 15, 2006)

"I'm feeling a little stupid here acting like a chain grinder 'spert when I have owned one for three whole days, maybe one of the real sperts could chime in here and explain better??"
Yeah, you better let me take over. I've had mine nigh on to a week now.:jester:


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## woodchux (Dec 15, 2006)

I got mine today! The first issue i have noticed is the set screw for the chain stop will not penetrate the hole :blush: Not really a big deal , I can just drill out the hole from the back side slightly and it should go through. All in all seems like pretty good quality for China.


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## RaisedByWolves (Dec 16, 2006)

Got mine today!



Nice little unit, dont really see how they can sell this for $100.




There are somethings that Ill change as in grunding the tops of the chain rails true, but other than this and the pivot fix that Butch OH posted Im really impressed.


And it takes a lot to impress me.



I even went so far sa to check the motor wattage and found the motor to be under rated by quite a bit.



The motor is rated at 230 watts, my watt meter tells me that it is actually drawing 300 with no load -15W for the light means that the motor is drawing 285 Watts!


Thats pretty good, but is even better is that it actually drew over 500 Watts before stalling and I only stopped trying due to my fingers getting hot.



And this was with no more than 5-10% reduction in speed.


Im impressed.


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## danl (Dec 17, 2006)

*I wonder how hard it will be to find a .20 ball bearing?
I knew I was going to lose one of them and was being careful not to, but did anyway. I measured the remaining one and it was 4.93 mm or .194 inches so I guess that is 5mm, right?

I was taking off the locking lever for the second time because the nut keeps backing off. I had really tightened up but it loosened up anyway.
Should I try Loctite?
Also does graphite have a adverse effect on aluminum? I thought about coating the locking lever shaft with graphite to make it catch less, but I seem to recall that graphite interacts with al. from a rifle forum that I visit sometimes.
Dan*


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## Butch(OH) (Dec 17, 2006)

danl said:


> *I wonder how hard it will be to find a .20 ball bearing?
> I knew I was going to lose one of them and was being careful not to, but did anyway. I measured the remaining one and it was 4.93 mm or .194 inches so I guess that is 5mm, right?
> 
> I was taking off the locking lever for the second time because the nut keeps backing off. I had really tightened up but it loosened up anyway.
> ...



Well, your not alone at loosing a ball. I too lost one at some point. Mine now has .187 (3/16) balls and works OK. Any well stocked hardware store will have bearing balls in the section with the stacks of drawers of small items.


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## ericjeeper (Dec 17, 2006)

*Butch*

Can you mail your spare ball to Dan? So he can have two matching balls again?LOL
I took mine apart on a towel so they would not roll away..


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## sugarbush (Dec 17, 2006)

danl said:


> *I wonder how hard it will be to find a .20 ball bearing?
> I knew I was going to lose one of them and was being careful not to, but did anyway. I measured the remaining one and it was 4.93 mm or .194 inches so I guess that is 5mm, right?
> 
> I was taking off the locking lever for the second time because the nut keeps backing off. I had really tightened up but it loosened up anyway.
> ...


try a bb from a shotgun shell.


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## Butch(OH) (Dec 17, 2006)

ericjeeper said:


> Can you mail your spare ball to Dan? So he can have two matching balls again?LOL
> I took mine apart on a towel so they would not roll away..



Check again this photo from my first post and notice my drawer of bearing balls beside the grinder, I figgured one of you sharpies would notice and nail me for it long before this, LOL
<IMG SRC=http://tinypic.com/30rp82g.jpg>


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## danl (Dec 18, 2006)

Do you think using steel balls will wear it more?
I went searching for the lost ball with a sweeper magnet and decided I should check the other one for ferrous content and it seemed to have none.
I guess it could be titanium !!!!!!!
Maybe it is stainless steel, I just assumed it was aluminum.

I really have the base of mine polished up used 600 grit emory cloth and some Mothers Al polish with a buffing wheel on my drill press. I can see my self in mine now. Probably a little excessive. But I was irritated at losing the ball and had to work on somthing. The next closest ball bearing in my shop was 1/2 inch don't think that would work too good.
Dan


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## Haywire Haywood (Dec 18, 2006)

I used a buffing wheel on my drill press too, but it's a course one. More like soft scotchbrite than a polishing pad. No mirror here. I did spray both surfaces down with some aerosol graphite I had in the shop. Works 100% better now. Still have both my balls too.  

Ian


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## olyman (Dec 19, 2006)

you can also find single ball bearings at any good bearing outlet-----in various sizes---------


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## danl (Dec 20, 2006)

"Well stocked hardware store" "good bearing outlet"
Therein lies the rub!!! Shakespeare maybe????

Yall obviously don't live in the Missouri Ozarks. We did recently get a Home Depot nearby. but I haven't been up to the challenge of actually trying to find some there or someone there who was willing to help look.

What exactly is the function of those bearings, I'm gonna quit using the other word, since everyone seems to think I have lost something personal.
When you rotate the table for the 10 deg. angle do they stay in the holes in the base or in the spring loaded holes in the table and what do they do????
I'm sure I'm ignorant and the answer is obvious.
Thanks
Dan


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## tawilson (Dec 20, 2006)

They will set into the dimples to lock the vise in the O setting. They stay on the end of the springs.


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## jstarnes (Dec 20, 2006)

Butch(OH) said:


> OK, think about hand filing. Some chain you are supposed to keep the file flat (90 degrees to the bar) Some are at 10 degrees (file handle down). To get the 10 degrees with the grinder requires the third axis movement that is built into the vise itself, see picture #4 above. In other words your 60 degree side angle is set by angling the entire grinder head at the back of the machine. The 30 or 25 degree top angle is with the swiveling vise and the 0 or 10 degree angle is set within the vise itself. You loosen the hand nut under the vise and push or pull it to the stops either side of the zero detent balls. Which way you move it depends on which cutters you are working on, rights or lefts, always tilt it so the leading point of the cutter is tilted down. This is what replicates the lowering of the file handle down 10 degrees when hand filing. Clear as mud yet? sorry, I can post another pic if need be later tonight.
> 
> I'm feeling a little stupid here acting like a chain grinder 'spert when I have owned one for three whole days, maybe one of the real sperts could chime in here and explain better??







Thanks a million!!! Just purchased one!!!
Thanks for the tips


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## SmokinDodge (Dec 20, 2006)

danl said:


> "Well stocked hardware store" "good bearing outlet"
> Therein lies the rub!!! Shakespeare maybe????
> 
> Yall obviously don't live in the Missouri Ozarks. We did recently get a Home Depot nearby.



Actually I do, right at the north edge of Morgan county. Let me guess your around the Bagnell Damn area with the new Home Depot. If your willing to drive to California Missouri or are ever passing throught stop at Sweets hardware north of the stop light. They have everything from ball bearings to buggy bumpers. (You have to ask for the buggy bumpers, they are in the back lol) The entire staff has a personality of toast but they are a damn fine hardware store.


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## North Wood (Dec 24, 2006)

great post broke down and ordered one today to replace the HF one


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## drmiller100 (Dec 26, 2006)

ok, so stupid questions.

i am supposed to run it at 10 degrees tilt for my 3/8 chain. So, I put the base gizmo lined up on the notch. Is this 10 degrees?????

how do you guys line up the cutting edge side to side? The stupid little spring loaded chain stop gizmo keeps loosening its nuts, so it moves in and out, and is inconsistent as all heck. mark the chain guide, and line it up wiht a rivet??? 

i've never used a chain grinder, so pardon if questions are dumb.


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## Adam217 (Dec 26, 2006)

I purchased one of these grinders as well, also my first experience with a chain grinder. The outside lines are the 10° marks. Not all 3/8 chain uses the 10° tilt, look at the guide provided in the manual or the manufactures documentation for your chain. You may also want to get the Oregon manual for their 511a grinder, this grinder is a copy of it, their manual is far better and is available in PDF format on their website.

For a quick fix on the chain stop I put some tread tape, the thin Teflon stuff you put on pipe fittings, a few wraps of that stuff and it will tighten it up enough so it doesn't vibrate around anymore and is still easily adjustable. You will have to move it a little bit to keep it centered properly when switching from one side of the chain to the other.

I have had a good time with this grinder, once setup properly and you get a few chains done it becomes very fast and easy to use and will keep your chains sharper and more consistent, it really helped straighten out some older hand filed chains.


P.S. I have been able to find all the grind angles for all manufactures of chain except Stihl, if anybody knows where I can find that info that would be great.


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## drmiller100 (Dec 26, 2006)

thanks! great idea on the teflon tape!

makes perfect sense now that you explain that......

so when I was using it, I was leaving the chain stop "centered". Then adjusting the gizmo that moves the chainstop for side to side.

wrong???


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## ericjeeper (Dec 26, 2006)

*As for grind angles.*

I have found out it is an operator preference. some even want 25 degrees for winter cutting. And the 10 degree is pretty evident by looking at how the grinder attacks the tooth.You can see that the tooth has a slight lean to it.by the way the grind tapers going out to the end of the tooth.(I found this out on the very first chain I ground wrong). But the next time I ran it through I corrected my mistake.(after someone told me to use the chart that came with the grinder).Gee read instructions? who would have thunk huh?


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## bytehoven (Dec 26, 2006)

I found this Stihl .pdf file on chain sharpening.

http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/SharpAdvice061301final.pdf

It does not go into specifics, but has some interesting info, especially on diagnosing various forms of chain & bar wear.


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## woodchux (Dec 26, 2006)

Adam217 said:


> if anybody knows where I can find that info that would be great.


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## Adam217 (Dec 27, 2006)

Too funny, I forgot that was there, I was looking for some up to date documentation from Stihl, that manual didn't list RSC chain.

As for centering the chain, I adjusted the center stopper bolt so that the vise bars look to have an even amount of bow to them while looking from above with it clamped tight, adjustments must be made while loose. I think you want to move the chain stop a little in or out depending on what side of the chain you are sharpening to center it behind the cutter. 

Try the manual from this page http://www.oregonchain.com/accessories.htm , you want the "User Manual for 511A Bench Chain Grinder" . I goes through the setup process step by step.


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## kevinj (Feb 15, 2007)

Thanks A Lot !!
Good info here also !!


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## jrclen (May 11, 2007)

Butch(OH) said:


> When I pick up a tool (or anything else) made in China I expect that I will need to do some finish work that really should have been done at the factory.



Great post. My stepson dropped off one of these grinders today for me to figure out and mount in the basement. I'll use your tips to finish it.


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## ms310 (Dec 20, 2008)

Ok so how many of you guys with the 193020 chinese knock off get the razor sharp results? I have used mine now for about 3 months and am seriousley thinking of going back to hand filing. I have read alot on as today and plan on trying it again i have 6 chains in the shop i am going to hit today, and will put the 10 degree angle on them, however i have never had one of these chains cut my hand like they do when i file them.


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## jrclen (Dec 22, 2008)

I get acceptable results. My biggest problem is the adjustments when going from one side of the chain to the other. While the results are acceptable, they are not as good as when I take the chain to my local shop. I have never tried the 10 degree tilt thing. Neither does my local shop.


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## ericjeeper (Dec 22, 2008)

*I concider my chains sharp*



ms310 said:


> Ok so how many of you guys with the 193020 chinese knock off get the razor sharp results? I have used mine now for about 3 months and am seriousley thinking of going back to hand filing. I have read alot on as today and plan on trying it again i have 6 chains in the shop i am going to hit today, and will put the 10 degree angle on them, however i have never had one of these chains cut my hand like they do when i file them.



Although I have never cut a finger on one cause I am not pushing a file into the tooth either. I have one guy that brings me 3 chains every few weeks. I charge him 3 bucks a chain.. he bought my grinder for me ages ago. LOL
I still file in the woods..


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## PA Plumber (Dec 22, 2008)

ms310 said:


> Ok so how many of you guys with the 193020 chinese knock off get the razor sharp results? I have used mine now for about 3 months and am seriousley thinking of going back to hand filing. I have read alot on as today and plan on trying it again i have 6 chains in the shop i am going to hit today, and will put the 10 degree angle on them, however i have never had one of these chains cut my hand like they do when i file them.



Definitely not as sharp as hand filing. Pretty decent edge that last fairly long with the effort needed to get a chain sharp. I have a couple of folks I sharpen chains for and they seem happy enough. 

I do most of my own chains on it, but have found that hand filing produces better result on my 3/8 when the tooth is nearly gone.

Knowing what I know now about the unit, it was a good investment.


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## Wet1 (Dec 22, 2008)

I bought one of these grinders while it was on sale (~$85). Shortly after ordering it I found a Silvey square grinder of CL for peanuts, so the NH grinder is basically on mothballs. I should do these mods (nice job Butch!) and just use it on my little chains.


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## chugbug (Dec 22, 2008)

Wet 1 , you could do as one of the other members suggested and set it up with a flat wheel to do the rakers .


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## bigjake (Dec 22, 2008)

I have the same deal i put a extra clamp on the up right adjuster the one didnt
seem to have enough bite to keep them from moving .for a c note not a
bad deal.i am getting another wheel the one that came with it is almost
imposible to get straight.


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## PA Plumber (Dec 22, 2008)

chugbug said:


> Wet 1 , you could do as one of the other members suggested and set it up with a flat wheel to do the rakers .



Oops, maybe I'm not doing things according to the destructions. I just use whatever wheel is in for the teeth, to do the rakers.


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## parrisw (Dec 22, 2008)

jrclen said:


> I get acceptable results. My biggest problem is the adjustments when going from one side of the chain to the other. While the results are acceptable, they are not as good as when I take the chain to my local shop. I have never tried the 10 degree tilt thing. Neither does my local shop.



You mean you never tilt the table for left and right cutters at the proper 10deg??? If not, you should, that's the way most chains are supposed to be, besides the little 1/4" chains.

Oh, and I get great results with using this grinder.


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## PA Plumber (Dec 22, 2008)

parrisw said:


> You mean you never tilt the table for left and right cutters at the proper 10deg??? If not, you should, that's the way most chains are supposed to be, besides the little 1/4" chains.
> 
> Oh, and I get great results with using this grinder.



A local Stihl dealer told me a while ago, that the tilt is no longer as important as it used to be. I haven't used it in over a year. Haven't really noticed much difference, and it is a lot quicker sharpening chains.

I'll have to try the tilt again. Got some Black Locust firewood to work on in the next couple of weeks (or after the ground freezes). I've also got a couple of chains that could use a touch-up.

One thing that comes to mind...

Do not take the rakers down too low; especially in hardwood. The saw will get real jumpy and I don't believe it is as efficient.


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## parrisw (Dec 22, 2008)

PA Plumber said:


> A local Stihl dealer told me a while ago, that the tilt is no longer as important as it used to be. I haven't used it in over a year. Haven't really noticed much difference, and it is a lot quicker sharpening chains.
> 
> I'll have to try the tilt again. Got some Black Locust firewood to work on in the next couple of weeks (or after the ground freezes). I've also got a couple of chains that could use a touch-up.
> 
> ...



Hmm, I didn't think the chains would work properly if you didn't tilt back at 10deg, do you file at 0 as well???


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## PA Plumber (Dec 22, 2008)

parrisw said:


> Hmm, I didn't think the chains would work properly if you didn't tilt back at 10deg, do you file at 0 as well???



Not quite, but real close to it.


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## tawilson (Dec 22, 2008)

PA Plumber said:


> A local Stihl dealer told me a while ago, that the tilt is no longer as important as it used to be. I haven't used it in over a year. Haven't really noticed much difference, and it is a lot quicker sharpening chains.



Apparently it never was important, we just thought so.


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## Urbicide (Dec 22, 2008)

I run Bailey's (Carlton) semi-chisel in both 3/8 & .325. The side plate angle on those is 90* (level). The round chisel chains take an 80* angle on the side plate.:chainsawguy:


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## thejdman04 (Dec 22, 2008)

great post


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## breymeyerfam (Dec 22, 2008)

is the northern grinder the same china one that baileys has?


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## STEELHEAD (Dec 22, 2008)

*China knock off*

I called northern friday to order the grinder, my book had it listed on sale for 85.00, but my credit card wouldnt go threw, and she said , you must have an old catalog there not on sale any more there 100.00 bucks, no problem, Ill try another card monday, I ordered it this morning and,..The guy says there 85,00 bucks, no argument here,. Ill take one, that lil savings pretty much took care of the shiping cost, Iam ready to start doing my own chains and stop running back,..and forth,..and paying some one else to do it, Steel


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## jrclen (Dec 23, 2008)

parrisw said:


> You mean you never tilt the table for left and right cutters at the proper 10deg??? If not, you should, that's the way most chains are supposed to be, besides the little 1/4" chains.
> 
> Oh, and I get great results with using this grinder.



If I remember right, my Stihl chart calls for 0 degree on the tilt. So does the Oregon's on my Homelites. In the instructions that came with the grinder, I have seen some call for the tilt.

My biggest problem is the chain stop not being consistent when swiveling from one cutter to the other side. Probably operator error.

I did grind the 1/4 stone to the correct flat with the stone to do the rakers. That took forever.


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## NBailey (Dec 24, 2008)

breymeyerfam said:


> is the northern grinder the same china one that baileys has?



The northern grinder comes from the same factory as the Carlton grinder we sell.
www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=78004&catID=152

We do a "fair" comparative analysis to the Italian grinder


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## Donald A (Dec 24, 2008)

woodchux said:


>



That chart is great. I printed a copy and it is fuzzy. Do you recall where you got the original copy?
Thanks.


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## parrisw (Dec 24, 2008)

Donald A said:


> That chart is great. I printed a copy and it is fuzzy. Do you recall where you got the original copy?
> Thanks.



It came with the Northern Grinder.


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## tawilson (Dec 24, 2008)

Donald A said:


> That chart is great. I printed a copy and it is fuzzy. Do you recall where you got the original copy?
> Thanks.



http://www.northerntool.com/downloads/manuals/193020.pdf


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## Donald A (Dec 25, 2008)

tawilson,
Thanks for the link, worked out great...


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## wdfccf73 (Mar 7, 2011)

Thanks everyone for all of the good advice. I'm just getting use to mine. I've sharpened a couple of old chains just to get the feel of it. I've noticed that when switching from one direction to the other, I'm concerned about whether or how consistent the tooth length will be from one side to the other?

I'm considering getting a cheap dial caliper to measure the teeth with to keep them consistent. Any advice here?

I also haven't figured out the depth gauge and how to know how deep to grind on the tooth?

I have the 10 degree tilt figured out. I'm pretty sure both my chains call for it.
How's the best way to use a speed square to check the angle on the grinder?

Thanks for any help you could give.
Chris


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## crzybowhntr (Dec 28, 2011)

*Balls...*



ericjeeper said:


> Can you mail your spare ball to Dan? So he can have two matching balls again?LOL
> I took mine apart on a towel so they would not roll away..



Man that must have been painful!!!:hmm3grin2orange:


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## lumberjackmoe (May 7, 2012)

*accuracy of NT grinder*

Has anyone other then myself checked out the accuracy of the scales on the NT grinder ?
I have and found that it is off quite a bit. However, the difference in where the wheel meets the tooth does not appear to be that great. Now that I have done it I will use my new settings. I did put a NEW chain on the sharpener and it appeared that the factory setting were quite close. However, I was useing a 1/8" wheel on a 3/8" pitch chain. It seem to fit in the tooth good. (I never had the grinder turned on.)
If anyone has any input, I wish you would share it with me.


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## coloradotrout (Mar 25, 2013)

Re: 5 - I was able to loosen the small nut on the opposite end of that bolt to extend the stop towards the operator just enough that now the thumbscrew allows enough travel but still keeps the stop on the shaft rather than on the threaded part of the bolt. The slop comes from the metal flipper getting too far towards the thumbscrew such that it gets off the solid shaft onto the threaded part. By moving the entire bolt further towards the front, the threaded part is avoided. Just loosen the nut on the backside, pull the bolt forward a bit (1/16" may be enough), set the nut with lock washer accordingly, and then tighten the backside nut.

Re: 6 - Tightening will not help in my case. The slop is in the stop's fit over the bushing. Tightening that bolt just snugged the bushing up tighter to the casting. Here is what I did as a work-around. I removed the bolt, and filed the bushing down flat against the moving stop. In other words, the bushing and stop are now the same length, whereas before the bushing was slightly longer (so the stop would not bind). I put it back together, added a larger washer and snugged it up tight. It's almost to the point that the stop does now bind, but a little hand pressure and it will move easily. That's ok with me, since I would set the tooth away from the wheel and then nudge the tooth closer by moving the stop adjustment knob. Just be careful to not file off too much of the bushing, otherwise, it will bind to the point it cannot move freely enough to adjust the amount of cut. The larger washer now exerts more side pressure on the stop, so it helps quite a bit with the slop. 



Butch(OH) said:


> 5. Slop in chain stop. There is a step in the shaft under my fingers and the nut is supposed to keep the stop up on the larger part of the shaft but it cant do that because of the step in the thumb nut. The slop created then causes a "spongy" stop. The fix is to get rid of the recess in the nut by filing flat.
> <IMG SRC=http://tinypic.com/400uogg.jpg>
> 
> 6. Another reason for chain stop slop is the cap screw at the bottom of the stop was not tight enough. a quarter turn tightened the stop on mine but with China tollarances may not repair others?
> <IMG SRC=http://tinypic.com/2hyxn44.jpg>


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## coloradotrout (Mar 25, 2013)

I was looking at this yesterday. It shows a 1/8" wheel for many chains. I do NOT believe that is correct. I'm using a Carlton A1LN, and the wheel to use is the 3/16" --NOT 1/8". As soon as you get out the profile guide you'll see the 1/8" wheel is never going to work!



woodchux said:


>


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## purdyite (Jun 2, 2016)

This thread appears to be aged somewhat, can't see the pics and I just bought a NT grinder. Having trouble with setting up the stop so that the left and right cutters are of equal length. Can someone post pics again where I can see the mods, or PM me with them so I can make the adjustments? Think I'm going to like it, IF it works accurately. Thanks for any help.


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## torch (Mar 22, 2017)

Oddly, the image links are still valid, they just are not showing up in the page display. 

Try d/l the attached PDF.


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## Philbert (Aug 11, 2019)

Shifting this to the larger NT grinder thread:

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fyi-northern-chainsaw-sharpener.39995/

Philbert


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## chub380 (Jan 28, 2020)

It seems like all the pics have been erased, I made a washer all those years ago but never figured out where the shim went/goes could someone please post pics of what it does and where it goes thanks so much


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## PA Plumber (Jan 28, 2020)

chub380 said:


> It seems like all the pics have been erased, I made a washer all those years ago but never figured out where the shim went/goes could someone please post pics of what it does and where it goes thanks so much


Goes between the bottom of the vice assembly and the grinder frame. Takes up the play when swiveling.


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## chub380 (Jan 28, 2020)

Ok ,well if you would ever have yours apart for cleaning and wouldn’t mind snapping a pic that would be great. I really wish there was a way to retrieve all those pics, I remember years ago seeing them and they would really help me now.


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## torch (Jan 28, 2020)

chub380 said:


> I really wish there was a way to retrieve all those pics, I remember years ago seeing them and they would really help me now.



Again: see https://www.arboristsite.com/community/attachments/tuning_chinese_chainsaw_sharpener-pdf.566900/

The pics were still there two or three years ago, I grabbed them into the PDF for posterity when this site stopped displaying them.


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## chub380 (Jan 28, 2020)

Maybe it’s my phone it asks if I want to download so I click but doesn’t do anything, that would make my day if I could download that!


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## Philbert (Jan 28, 2020)

Try viewing with a desktop computer. Much better for images. 

Philbert


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## chub380 (Jan 28, 2020)

chub380 said:


> Maybe it’s my phone it asks if I want to download so I click but doesn’t do anything, that would make my day if I could download that!


My daughter helped me thanks so much I appreciate it!


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## torch (Jan 29, 2020)

You're welcome. I hope it helps.


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## PA Plumber (Jan 29, 2020)

torch said:


> You're welcome. I hope it helps.


Well done.

The last pic is excellent.


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## torch (Jan 29, 2020)

Just to be clear: the photos and article are not mine -- they are the work of Butch, from the first post of this thread. All I did was rescue the photos when Tinypic.com closed their doors.


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