# Timberking or Woodmizer or other?



## Can8ianTimber

OK I know this is like asking chevy or ford, Stihl or Husqvarna, ect ect.

I am getting to the point where I am ready to take the next step to a bandmill and I am looking at a timberking 1600. The things that I like about it are the 32" cutting width and relitivly low cost compared to full sized mills. I have milled with a friend on his LT 70 and after you engaged the clutch you have to wait for a couple seconds for the cutting head to stop wobbling. That is probably because the band was high above the deck cutting a large tree but what the heck. 

I am hoping to get some real feedback from people who have hopfully run both or seen both. Either way chim in on the good bad and ugly. 

Here on the west coast all I see is Woodmizer but from the videos I have seen of TK in action I like what I see.


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## redprospector

I'm not going to get into the Ford/Chevy & Stihl/Husky thing.
But what I will tell you is that there are a lot of good band mills being produced. I would say to pick a company that is well established, and has good customer service so they'll still be around when you need them. But in this economy, who knows who'll be around in a few years.
My advice is to choose a mill that is proven to be productive, and most of the parts can be purchased locally. That way you're covered.

Personally, I like a 4 post band mill vs the Woodmiser. I've ran a Woodmiser, and they are good machines, I just prefer the 4 post.
I built my band mill, and if I had it to do over again I'd just buy one. Mine is a pretty good mill, but building one is a never ending process. 

I've never ran either, but I like the looks of the Cook's mills better than the Timberking.

Andy


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## deeker

redprospector said:


> I'm not going to get into the Ford/Chevy & Stihl/Husky thing.
> But what I will tell you is that there are a lot of good band mills being produced. I would say to pick a company that is well established, and has good customer service so they'll still be around when you need them. But in this economy, who knows who'll be around in a few years.
> My advice is to choose a mill that is proven to be productive, and most of the parts can be purchased locally. That way you're covered.
> 
> Personally, I like a 4 post band mill vs the Woodmiser. I've ran a Woodmiser, and they are good machines, I just prefer the 4 post.
> I built my band mill, and if I had it to do over again I'd just buy one. Mine is a pretty good mill, but building one is a never ending process.
> 
> I've never ran either, but I like the looks of the Cook's mills better than the Timberking.
> 
> Andy



I will jump in with both feet. Ford and Stihl rule.

I own a Lumbermate 2000LM, I have used the woodmizer. I prefer the four posts...every single time.

If I were to go to a bigger mill, as in hydraulics...it would be LogMaster or the Cook's. Both are four post, and cost less than the WM.

Many people are happy with the WM, no problem.

Just prefer all four posts.

Kevin


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## Can8ianTimber

For a manual mill I really like the lumbermate and that might be the first mill I buy just for finacial reasons. I have the chainsaw mill for cutting wider logs and a forklift here for moving logs around but I would love a good hydolic mill.

Take a look at this video. Looks kind of funky but a wide band and looks like about 50" width on a bandmill. Let me know what you guys think about it though. I am sure I would be on my own for parts if stuff breaks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uB6OVojDaEU


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## M.R.

Time wise, this isn't that far off or away from you & a good chance to view many Mills in action, and maybe cut a few boards yourself.

Will likely- or wanting to go this one, just to smell the new paint & drool some on the Peterson / Lucus mills again.


http://www.oregonloggingconference.com/


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## graemenz

Just to muddy the waters I have a 6 inch Lucas swing mill and love it . It came with a slabbing bar to cut flitches so I do not miss out on them .
The big thing for me is being able to drive to the log , roll it on bearers with a HiLift jack and cut all but dressed lumber with out the need of machinery to move the log . To me that is the big thing . I do not have the space or need to own machinery capable of moving logs so I let the log lie and the mill move .
Plus replacing a blade is fast as is sharpening with the supplied grinder and a rebuilt blade is under $50 .
Depends on how much wood you plan to mill , what time you have and how much help is available . Have attached some pics and all the best .


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## Sawyer Rob

I don't think it's a Ford, Chevy thing at all. Each brand has some good "models" and you have to pick the MODEL, not the brand.

When it comes to a manual mill, Norwood, with their Lumbermate, invented that class of bandmill, and is still on top.

When you get up to hydraulics, then there's a lot more to consider, and the picture isn't so clear...

As far as a swing mill, it's a great mill, but too specialized for most sawmilling. They are a poor sawmill for "all around" milling, especially here in the U.S..

Rob


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## Can8ianTimber

graemenz said:


> Just to muddy the waters I have a 6 inch Lucas swing mill and love it . It came with a slabbing bar to cut flitches so I do not miss out on them .
> The big thing for me is being able to drive to the log , roll it on bearers with a HiLift jack and cut all but dressed lumber with out the need of machinery to move the log . To me that is the big thing . I do not have the space or need to own machinery capable of moving logs so I let the log lie and the mill move .
> Plus replacing a blade is fast as is sharpening with the supplied grinder and a rebuilt blade is under $50 .
> Depends on how much wood you plan to mill , what time you have and how much help is available . Have attached some pics and all the best .



The lucas and peterson mills are really nice and I have used them a bunch too. The problem for me is the kerf and the limited capabilities. You can cut only 6" lumber (or 8" if you get that model) or slabs. In my opinion a nice bandmill like the TK 1600 and a lucas would be a great combination.


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## Backwoods

deeker said:


> I will jump in with both feet. Ford and Stihl rule.


Well you are half right. 

I have the same bounce issue with my LT-70, even running the mudsaw will get it to bouncing.


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## DCtree

*Sawmill Jones*

Ive been looking for a sawmill for over 2 years now. I dont care what it is, 
I just want to get something used at a reasonable price within 100 miles of Cincinnati. 
Doesn’t anyone know of a someone who has come to realizes their more work than their worth & wants to get rid of theirs??
Please pass this on. [email protected]

thanks


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## mountainlake

I've ran a TK B20 for 7 years now, it's a nice sturdy simple mill with a lot of off the shelf parts, I think that other brand is way to complicated . I just watched a video of their new B2000, if I had $24000 I'd own one right now, I think a comparable WM would cost $35000 or so. If your sawing big logs get the most power you can and a wide throat like the 1600 TK is nice. Steve


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## Can8ianTimber

mountainlake said:


> I've ran a TK B20 for 7 years now, it's a nice sturdy simple mill with a lot of off the shelf parts, I think that other brand is way to complicated . I just watched a video of their new B2000, if I had $24000 I'd own one right now, I think a comparable WM would cost $35000 or so. If your sawing big logs get the most power you can and a wide throat like the 1600 TK is nice. Steve



Yeah I totally agree. It just seems like the 1600 with added hyd log loaders and bidirectional log turner is a heck of a lot of mill for the money. Now I really have to decide if I am going to take out a loan for one or try to pay cash on a 1220. Tough decision, I hate dept.


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## 4x4American

Any word on what mill?


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## mountainlake

Lots of good questions..The WM debarker is better but the LT40 is way to complicated and doesn't have a chain turner or vertical logs stops, A LT50 is a way better comparison the the TK 2000 as The LT50 has both a chain turner and vertical log stops.. Save the cost of the debarker and get a sharpener which will pay for itself . Unless you saw a lot of real dirty logs you really don't need a debarker, if a log is dirty on one side just take the dirt off with the slab. When set up right any mill with good blade guides like both mills have will cut straight until the blade gets dull. another plus for TK is they use 3" guide rollers vs 2" on the WM which is easier on the blade and bearings in the rollers. I rather have the TK deck, most of the WM deck is tough except the swing out supports for long logs which can bend.. People like the TK sharpener which does the job but in not as heavy built as a Cooks. Some have trouble breaking teeth with the TK setter, a friend of mine has one I'll have to check with him again I carry liability insurance that cost $260 a year through Acuity. Setting up the 2000 should take about 15 minutes. The WM should be close as the have to put all of the supports down and get kinda of level also, not such thing as sawing with all of the supports down as every mill has some flex. No plates here in MN. The few times I've needed customer service it's been great, I've never had a problem that didn't get fixed right but with any company if they cant get it fixed fast and the owner gets mad customer service can suffer, that why I like the simple TK mills which don't need much customer service. I can tell you my B20 cost very little to maintain, go over to the forestry forum if you want to read about WM problems. Far as blades any company will make the right length, I hear good things about Kasco blades, cut good and are reasonable. Try and get blades with a 7 or 4 degree hook angle as they cut straighter in tough wood
Steve


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## Can8ianTimber

Good job brining this one back up from the dead. So since I posted this thread I have purchased 3 sawmills. My first mill was a 6" lucas. I bought it because it was on craigslist for super cheap. It was easy to run and low maintenance. I sold it and bought a timberking 1600. I liked that mill but it was underpowered for the wide hardwoods I was cutting. 2 years ago I sold that and bought a timberking 2000 with the 35hp diesel. I LOVE IT. I have run woodmizers that my friends own and I knew I was not going to go with an orange mill. The diesel engine has the torque you need for cutting wood. I do wish the chain turner had a little more power but I push the mill to the max with the kind of logs I cut. I have attached a picture of a 48" walnut log that I cut first with a chain saw and then put on the timberking. The saw is at its highest point from the deck which is 28 3/4" and the log is almost touching the frame above the blade which is another 18" above the blade. I love the 32" cut width and I use all 32" on hardwoods on a regular basis.


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## 4x4American

Thanks for all the input!


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## hamish

4x4American said:


> Call me a thread exhumer...
> 
> I'm pretty close to getting a mill, and so far I'm down between a lt40 hyd diesel WM and a TK2000 w/diesel. I like the looks and the build of Cook's, but it's just too far of a drive when I have WM and TK dealers closeby (TK 1hr 30min and WM is 3 hrs) Have a few questions for yawl:
> 
> 1. How is the TK debarker? It looks like it might block the view or sawing quite a bit and does it work well?
> 2. How about the shingler/lapsider option for the TK, any good? hard to use? I have someone who wants wood shingles, as do I.
> 3. Setup times on the woodmizer vs timberking- how comparable are they?
> 4. No plates are required for towing, correct?
> 5. Is there any kinda insurance to worry about for door-to-door milling?
> 6. How is the TK customer service?
> 7. Have any of yawl experienced crooked lumber with either mill?
> 8. Is the WM deck tough?
> 9. Where would I get blades from TK/is their sharpener/setter any good?
> 10. Can anyone compare the upkeep/maintenance costs?
> 
> Thanks! Trying to make tough decision, TK has a promo going on until July 1st, where you can "Test our mill for free for 60 days..." So I'll be there at the TK dealer bright and early this saturday, hopefully one might follow me home. The problem is, they only have a 2200 diesel there right now. So, who knows, see how it goes.



All your questions asked boil down to user experience and personal opinion. They only way you will ever answer any of them is to get your hands on the mills in question and spend a lot of time milling, then making your own decisions.

Question number 7, you will with any mill if your not on your game.


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## Dave Boyt

I'm going to throw out the Norwood option. They sell their mills as a kit that arrives on a single pallet. It took me two days to build mine, but that was with no power tools (an air wrench would really speed things up). That means no waiting (or paying for) someone else to assemble it. The HD 36 has hydraulic options that you can either get with the mill or add later. Officially, the maximum width of cut is 26", but I have removed the blade guides and squeezed it through 30" slabs. It is a pretty tough mill. I've dropped 3,000 pound logs on it, bumped it sideways with the loader, and subjected it to all manor of abuse, and it still cuts perfectly.


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## 4x4American

What do you think about a used one?


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## mountainlake

Skip the debarker as they are in the way and hard to keep adjusted, even some with WM mills have taken the debarker off for the same reasons although the WM debarker is not in the way as bad. I'd get a sharpener and setter instead. If you could find a used one with a diesel at a good price fine, too me if you do a lot of sawing a diesel is a must. You can make good money with a mill if you keep half way busy, do a good job custom sawing and word of mouth will spread fast. Construction and excavating company's are always looking for trailer decking and blocking, give them a call. The side boards can go for flooring. Steve


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## 4x4American

yup


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## 4x4American

Waiting to hear back


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## Mike Van

Not brand specific, but my advice would be try to find a mill that used standard parts, rather than having to call the mfg. every time you need something. Things like computerized setworks may sound cool, but the way these machines are out in the weather & getting logs banged around on them, anything fragile is sure to fail. When it does, are you out of work till it's fixed? Expensive? Probably. Two other things you'll need are a sharpener & setter, you can't make good lumber with crappy blades. I bought a used Cooks Catclaw ffrom them years ago, pretty much worth it's weight in gold. Cooks setter too, bought used from a guy on FF.


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## 4x4American

Thanks Mike.


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## John brayshaw

Can8ianTimber said:


> OK I know this is like asking chevy or ford, Stihl or Husqvarna, ect ect.
> 
> I am getting to the point where I am ready to take the next step to a bandmill and I am looking at a timberking 1600. The things that I like about it are the 32" cutting width and relitivly low cost compared to full sized mills. I have milled with a friend on his LT 70 and after you engaged the clutch you have to wait for a couple seconds for the cutting head to stop wobbling. That is probably because the band was high above the deck cutting a large tree but what the heck.
> 
> I am hoping to get some real feedback from people who have hopfully run both or seen both. Either way chim in on the good bad and ugly.
> 
> Here on the west coast all I see is Woodmizer but from the videos I have seen of TK in action I like what I see.



I’ve been running Wood-Mizer’s for 20+ years I’ve had three different Woodmiser’s I’ve had two LT 40s and one LT 40 super remote hydraulic.
I’m on their 1 million board foot club and on their pro sawyer network here on the East Coast. I am at timber framer. I would recommend Woodmiser for board cutting only. If you’re looking to cut a Lotta beams you’ll be better served with a four post machine. The Woodmiser requires 3 to 4 different points of adjustment For you be able to cut a “square” cant or beam. Cutting boards however —if the blade is positioned at one point or wrong it’ll cut the boards evenly going down although the edges of your boards might be beveled.
It takes a lot of fussing to get that bed to Blade Square with the cantilevered head —you have to offset the cantilever head by an eighth of an inch on the outside To maintain a square cut to the bed. Also you have to make sure your guide roller is set properly as well as your cantilevered head underneath the machine.
The big one is the side dogs. They constantly go out of square from the push of the center moving dog. There’s just so many things to keep tuned to keep that beam Square. As time goes on you will find that it’s nearly impossible to keep this or any of their canterleaveted machines square when cutting beams. At about 5 to 800 hours a lot of your switches will start to go on the machine. You will also start to blow fuses and selonoids. The paint on the machine will start to fade within two years and your machine will look like it’s 20 years old from a cheap paint job “rust bucket”. My first and last Woodmizer machines caught on fire one at 14 hours the other one at 800 hours. They “Woodmizer” were there to take care of me though and brought me a new machine on the first fire one. The second one all the electronics burnt and I was never able to ever get the set works going again without paying 3900 bucks to them for an upgrade. Just about every motor ,solenoid ,fuse you name it —will break down on that mill Within 1000 hours. The one thing that I will give Wood-Mizer credit for is their customer service And technical support. They are second to none when it comes to fixing your machine with you on the phone which I do quite often with them. Doug H. that works there Is about the best customer service employee you will find.If you do post and beam or timber frame houses or need something perfectly square the Wood-Mizer is not for you you’re better off of the four post machine. If your cutting thousands of feet of 1 inch or 5/4 boards for barn siding then the Wood-Mizer is ideal.
Another big thing to watch out for is the selection on engines. If you have a Lambordini Engine, Kabota engine, Onan engine, catapillar engine Or anything but a Yanmar or Kohler engine You’re likely to be **** out of luck for parts as they make parts obsolete from engines they don’t carry anymore!! They also do it with models they don’t make anymore you can’t find Parts or get parts from them —you’ll have to have them fabricated or ???? somewhere else the true skinny!


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## mountainlake

John Sure is nice to hear a good honest report. Some WM owner are like a cult and claim they never break down. WM did come out with a 4 post mill but as with a lot of companys they have cheapened them up to make more money right now until their reputation is shot. Steve


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## BigOakAdot

Has anyone ever used a hud-son mill? I see them they are made in New York which isn't far from me in Philly. 

Like a lot of you, I'm getting close to wanting to buy a bandmill on a tight budget. Would like something that can do around a 30" cut that's under 10k. Can't decide between Norwood, timber king, and Hudson....


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## mountainlake

I've seen Hudson mills at farm show, look built a little light. I'd check out a EZ Boardwalk 40 . large capacity and owners like them a lot. Around $8000 or so. Steve


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## BigOakAdot

Wow that is some serious width for 8 grand. I may be order one of those very very soon.


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## mountainlake

John brayshaw said:


> Yeah I agree I’m kind of bummed to write that but you’re right it is a cult. They’ve gotten so big they forgot about the individual the finance department is terrible I just sold my super remote and bought the timber king 2000 picking it up next Saturday in New York I’m pumped look at their website under TimberKing advantage pretty interesting stuff it’s sWaded me


 

John After you get your mill post on here, there are couple of things to check on the TK 2000. Nothing serious. Steve


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