# Chipper: Rollers Dull On Feeder?



## StihlRockin' (Jul 2, 2008)

There are 2 hydraulic rollers on the Vermeer 1250. They stand vertical to each other and spread apart as far as the wood is big when stuff is being chipped. Lately I've noticed that the brush seems to be getting caught on something inside or the rollers are having a problem.

As the brush is being feed, sometimes the rollers just roll...scraping the bark on the brush and not feeding. The blades are definitely sharp. I'm thinking that maybe every now and then the fins or blades on the feeder rollers need to be sharpened slightly to get a better grab on the brush.

Has anyone else had this problem? Is my guess correct that maybe these "blades" on the rollers need to be sharpened slightly to grab the brush better as it's feeding? I'm guessing they are so dull they are just not grabbing good enough.

If this is a good solution, great!... but if not, does anyone else have an idea of what the problem could be?

Also too, when feeding, it helps to press down on the brush so it doesn't feed towards the top.... preferring to keep the brush lower so it feeds better.

Any hints, tips or recommendations are surely appreciated.

Thanks,

*Stihl*Rockin'


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## ClimbinArbor (Jul 2, 2008)

sounds to me like the table that the rollers slide on is gummed up. pop the hood on the rollers and take a bar tool to dig all the gunk out of there. if it has the springs, taking them off and pulling the rollers back will help.

i take a blower to the ipper engine and roller carriage atleast once a week. gets all those chips out of the working areas.


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## limbwalker54 (Jul 2, 2008)

Does one roller seem like it has no power? If so, when this happens, my Morbark has snapped a key. There is a woodruff key on each shaft of the hydraulic motors that actuate the rollers, mine snap every now and then. It ends up one roller short, making feeding difficult. I carry the tools and an extra box of keys in case it does it on the job now.....


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## tomtrees58 (Jul 2, 2008)

i have a 1230# wens the last time you sharpen the blades# we change them 2 times a week you do not sharpen in feed rollers tom trees


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## Torquin (Jul 2, 2008)

I thought the 1250 had a hydraulic assist on the rollers, so you can increase the pressure when the rollers slip. The one I looked at a few months ago did.
If you do not have the hydraulic assist, and your guide rails are clear, as ClimbinArbor suggested, so the roller can move freely, look for the springs to be weak. On some chippers you can adjust the spring tension, but I don't know about the 1250.

Chris


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## 2dogs (Jul 2, 2008)

Change the hyd filter and fluid if it has been more than a few months. Replace the springs too. Check behind the feedwheels for stuff caught in there.


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## Pete M (Jul 2, 2008)

When they slip, just give them a shove with the pole pruner to help stuff through


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## Hddnis (Jul 2, 2008)

I have sharpened the teeth on infeed rollers. If they bite into the wook there is no need. If the rollers just spin on the wood they need attention. You are not looking for a very sharp edge.

It can make a huge difference in overall productivity.



Mr. HE


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## StihlRockin' (Jul 3, 2008)

Like I said, the blades are sharp. I have had in the past troubles feeding brush, etc, but that was due to dull blades. This time I'm sure the blades are sharp.

I didn't know about the hydraulic assist nor did I know about the spring strength or adjustment thing. I'll be sure to look into this stuff as it sounds like a good start.

The rollers roll well.

As for feeding... I did error in what I originally said and meant that sometimes when the stuff feeds too high in the rollers, I LIFT UP on the brush so it feeds lower into the hidden blades behind.

I appreciate the replies and will look into it. Thank you very much for the help. It's cool to get feedback from others in the industry!

*Stihl*Rockin'


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## rbtree (Jul 3, 2008)

Hddnis said:


> I have sharpened the teeth on infeed rollers. If they bite into the wook there is no need. If the rollers just spin on the wood they need attention. You are not looking for a very sharp edge.
> 
> It can make a huge difference in overall productivity.
> 
> ...



correct.....sorry tomtrees......

My 250XP is 11 years old. It has plenty of crushing and grabbing power, and has never had the feed edges sharpened, or renewed... (requires welding a bead on, then sharpening it.)but I've considered it, and figured it would help, including holding back stringy material which could produce a better chip.


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## rbtree (Jul 3, 2008)

2dogs said:


> Change the hyd filter and fluid if it has been more than a few months. Replace the springs too. Check behind the feedwheels for stuff caught in there.




Nah....

I've had my 250 for 8 years, and have not touched the fluid (30 weight engine oil)...save to add maybe 3-5 quarts. It is still clean as when I bought the used unit. 

Spring tension is adjustable....if there's not a lot of pressure, adjust it, if it's stilll low, replace the springs as 2dogs said.


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## treemandan (Jul 3, 2008)

Guy down the road has an old Vermeer, he put a new spring on the rollers, works like new.


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## serial killer (Jul 3, 2008)

Pay no attention to these nublets. You absolutely do need to sharpen your feed rollers. Everything else that has been mentioned is ok too, especially the bit about the tensioning springs. But think about it. The first thing that grabs the log is the feed rollers. And if they don't grab it good, you're doing a whole lot of extra work. Give them the benefit of the doubt and sharpen them at least as sharp as a good shovel every couple of months.


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## ClimbinArbor (Jul 3, 2008)

yar to the sharpening helping out a little.

id still check the table for buildup. 

if the rollers cannot push together, they cannont grab the logs. anytime ive seen rollers spin while theres something between them, its been due to the table and rails being clogged. worth a good look.


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## StihlRockin' (Jul 5, 2008)

I want to thank you gentleman for the help and opinions. As soon as it gets slow enough here, I'll take 'er apart, clean 'er up a bit and check out things thoroughly. I will also sharpen the rollers blades a bit, but not much... just hopefully enough to get a better bite on the wood and brush.

I'll be sure to check back with you guys to let you know what eventually was/is the problem.

Take care,

*Stihl*Rockin'


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## ClimbinArbor (Jul 6, 2008)

no need to tear everything apart.... a blower and a scrench will do the job in 5-10 minutes on cleaning the gunk.


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## pdqdl (Jul 8, 2008)

A 4" sidewinder grinder does a nice job of sharpening the bars on the feed rollers. Just sharpen the "wood" side of the triangle, and use the curvature of the wheel to make it less like a triangle and more like a fish hook. You'll be pleased with the improvement.

You can't get the small grinder right up to the sides of the feed chute, but there is not as much wear there, either.

Make sure you have an assistant, some goggles, and some earmuffs. It's unpleasantly tight, and VERY loud down in the chute where the feed rollers are at.


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## ClimbinArbor (Jul 8, 2008)

pdqdl said:


> Make sure you have an assistant, some goggles, and some earmuffs. It's unpleasantly tight, and VERY loud down in the chute where the feed rollers are at.



I have had a guy try to run the roller operater bar while i was digging wet leaves out.... it was a boss i had(same one that used to torture people.....) i wouldnt do it. he told another guy to do, and i told him not to.... i trust myself to do it and noone else. accidents happen. i keep one hand on the bar if im putting the other within 6" or so of the rollers while the machine is running.


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## Hddnis (Jul 8, 2008)

If you are in the chute sharpening the infeed roller teeth the machine should be shut off and locked out from starting.

That is the only safe way. Disconnecting the battery is a good idea too.




Mr. HE


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## pdqdl (Jul 8, 2008)

*NOT while it's running, I NEVER suggested that!*



ClimbinArbor said:


> ... within 6" or so of the rollers while the machine is running.



I ws going to say no!  No! *NO! *, 

but the previous post suggesting that the engine is locked out from starting and the rollers not moving should be enough. If it isn't read my first line again!


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## Hddnis (Jul 9, 2008)

Yeah, I saw that part about the machine running. While I'm not sure he is talking about sharpening there I just had to say something. I don't get anywhere near six inches from the feeder on a chipper. They scare me a little and I'm not afraid to admit it. 

Take the long way and live to brag about it. 



Mr. HE


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## serial killer (Jul 9, 2008)

A buddy of mine got cut pretty bad yesterday while clearing a jam, machine off, nothing moving. I wasn't there, but apparently his hand slipped and cut his forearm up on a chipper tooth. No idea just how bad it is until he tells me what the orthopedic surgeon said today. Watch yourselves out there, just about anything we work with can bite you.


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## StihlRockin' (Jul 12, 2008)

I still haven't done any work on it yet, but looking more closely, I now understand the adjustment process on the spring. It looks like the adjustment screw is already backed out as far as it should to tighten, so I'll have to re-adjust the cable, then play with the screw to get it to tighten/adjust properly.

As for the idea on the 4" grinder, I was thinking something along those lines, so that looks like it will work for me. I'll be sure to implement safety protocols while working on this beast!

Thanks again and I'll be sure to let you guys know how it goes.

*Stihl*Rockin'


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## hornett224 (Jul 13, 2008)

*if the feed wheels are rubbing the lower deck.*

you probably need new bearings.the top of the wheels need to be cleaned out as often as possible.


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## HolmenTree (Jul 14, 2008)

On my little Morbark 2060 [13" x 6"] infeed I sharpen the 2 knives on the feed roller with a handheld knife touchup sharpener and use a 4 1/2 angle grinder to touchup the teeth.The sharp knives keep the stringy stuff chopped up and the teeth keep on grabbing. You do have to build up the teeth with a hard surface welding rod after a while though.

Willard.


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## ClimbinArbor (Jul 18, 2008)

pdqdl said:


> I ws going to say no!  No! *NO! *,
> 
> but the previous post suggesting that the engine is locked out from starting and the rollers not moving should be enough. If it isn't read my first line again!



yeah i wasnt talking about sharpening lol.


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## Tree Student (Jul 18, 2008)

I've got a 1992 Bandit 250 and if the blades are sharp on a disk then it should suck the wood in without feed rollers, the rollers are basically there to get the wood to the blades. In a Bandit it is called an "anvil" that is the other half of the cutting from the blades to create a scissor action and suck the wood in unless the blades are dull and the anvil has a rounded edge instead of a clean sharp 90 degree corner.

Your answer is that your Shear Bar is dull, you can put new blades on all day long but if you don't dress up the edge on the shear bar or swap it to a new edge then you're not going to cut anything. There are three bolts on the side that hold the shear bar in so make sure you torque those back down when you put the bar back in.


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## pdqdl (Jul 18, 2008)

Tree Student said:


> I've got a 1992 Bandit 250 and if the blades are sharp on a disk then it should suck the wood in without feed rollers, the rollers are basically there to get the wood to the blades.



I will try to be respectful here, but you are mistaken. Drum feeders are self feeding, but disk chippers simply don't, regardless of the brand name.

If you doubt me, raise your feed roller, block it up with the factory bar used to lock it in the "up" position, then feed it some wood. Keep in mind, that's not really a smart thing to do, as the feed rollers prevent things from flying back out the chute.

It will not work, and the wood will only feed so long as you keep pushing it in. You might get some smaller branches to self-feed, but anything bigger will just bounce out away from the disk.


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## Tree Student (Jul 18, 2008)

pdqdl said:


> I will try to be respectful here, but you are mistaken. Drum feeders are self feeding, but disk chippers simply don't, regardless of the brand name.
> 
> If you doubt me, raise your feed roller, block it up with the factory bar used to lock it in the "up" position, then feed it some wood. Keep in mind, that's not really a smart thing to do, as the feed rollers prevent things from flying back out the chute.
> 
> It will not work, and the wood will only feed so long as you keep pushing it in. You might get some smaller branches to self-feed, but anything bigger will just bounce out away from the disk.



I understand what you are saying, I have done that before due to a malfunction on my hydraulic motor on the top feed wheel but you are basically correct unless the blades and anvil have a new edge on each. But regardless of that, a disk machine will not cut anything if one of the two cutting edges that form the scissor cutting action is not sharp.


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## HolmenTree (Jul 18, 2008)

Tree Student said:


> I understand what you are saying, I have done that before due to a malfunction on my hydraulic motor on the top feed wheel but you are basically correct unless the blades and anvil have a new edge on each. But regardless of that, a disk machine will not cut anything if one of the two cutting edges that form the scissor cutting action is not sharp.



My Morbark disc 2060d 6",chips just fine with sharp knives and dull anvil, I have used it for years and haven't even so much as looked at the anvil.


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