# Problems splitting wood



## stevohut (May 13, 2010)

I know this is going to make me sound like a complete dobber. I have to split my wood by hand and I am having a hell of a time with getting productive results. Can't keep my logs standing up, one chop and they fall over. Is there a trick to holding on to the splitting maul with one hand and smacking it with a sledge in the other hand. Somebody told me to use a light weight maul and grind off the sharp edge so the maul won't stick in the wood if the log doesn't split the first time. I'm realy confused and frustrated.
:censored:


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## TreePointer (May 13, 2010)

What wood species are you splitting? What diameter gives you trouble? Green or dry wood? What kind of maul/axe are you using?

When I split with a maul, one swing with the 6 or 8 lb. splitting maul is usually enough to split straight grained wood. An axe specially made for splitting (like the Fiskars Super Splitting Axe) is pretty darn good splitting axe at only 4.25 lbs.

Smaller rounds may be bound together in a tire or with a bungee/rope. See the AKKAMAAN videos.

Wood with a twisted grain (elm, et al.) or crotches of most species are hard to split using any maul or method, and you may want to noodle them with your chainsaw or save them for someone with an hydraulic splitter.


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## WetBehindtheEar (May 13, 2010)

Things to consider:

Are the ends 'square'? Does the log tilt to one side or the other? That will cause a chunk to fall pretty easily. 

I've seen people use spare tires on top of the splitting block so that the tire keeps all of the splits at least semi-upright. Much like AKKAMAN'S bungee cord version. 

In the splitting, are you swinging on green or seasoned wood? 

I find most wood splits better when seasoned - except elm. Split that right away if you can. 

Anyway, if you are splitting seasoned wood, place the wedge in one of the end-grain checks. It is SOOOO much easier that way. 

With a maul or splitting axe... Just swing harder... :lifter:

I'm not the biggest or strongest guy around - skinny track kid from way back with soft hands from years of working on the computer... 

Maybe I'm just taking out all of my frustration at the world and don't realize how hard I'm swining. 

Actually, you may find good success in 'chipping away' at the edges and corners of a larger log. 

Yeah, guys on here say use your saw to 'noodle' a log into smaller pieces but think of all of the wood you are wasting in the kerf... Good luck! :greenchainsaw:


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## dingeryote (May 13, 2010)

Screw the lightweight dull Maul bidness.

Mass=momentum. Ya don't split wood with velocity, ya gotta get the wedge/maul between the central fibers to get them apart.

The old tire works to keep 'em upright.
Bungee cord works too.

Another method is what I call "Killing Cockaroaches".

Set up half a dozen rounds in a semi-circle, and with a single burst of focused rage, attack each one untill they are all split.

Then take a sip of frosty beverage, and set up the next group of victims.
It makes good therapy. Especially if ya name the rounds.

Good luck to ya, and mind your toes with the Maul.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## stevohut (May 13, 2010)

The wood I am trying to split is white poplar and its green fresh cut. They are small rounds about 8"x16". I'm using a light maul I think it's 8lbs if I remember correctly. An old guy told me to use an axe head as a wedge to split with, that's how he does it. I've tried it and it works until you run out of axe head in the log to fully split it.


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## dingeryote (May 13, 2010)

stevohut said:


> The wood I am trying to split is white poplar and its green fresh cut. They are small rounds about 8"x16". I'm using a light maul I think it's 8lbs if I remember correctly. An old guy told me to use an axe head as a wedge to split with, that's how he does it. I've tried it and it works until you run out of axe head in the log to fully split it.




You got a splitting maul?

8" Poplar should be no problem.

Save the wedging for the big rounds ya can't bust with the splitting maul, and get a couple good splitting wedges.

Axe heads are mighty narrow, and springy wood will just swallow 'em and drive ya nuts. In less springy seasoned wood, the axe head might work ok.

In short. Get a splitting Maul and live easier.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## dhamblet (May 13, 2010)

*wood splitting*

You should easily be able to split an 8" x 16" round with one swing of a decent splitting maul or even a heavy axe without a wedge. Fact is axe heads are hardened steel unlike splitting wegdes and can spit off dangerous bits when struck by hardened steel like your maul. You will also ruin it as an axe. Go to Home Depot and get a real splitting wedge and a new handle for the axe head and use it as it was intended. I don't know why anyone would intentionally dull the edge of a new maul, they get dull soon enough on their own. The maul should have a steep edge like a cold chisel as opposed to the knife like edge on an axe. I think you're getting some bad advice from your friend.



stevohut said:


> The wood I am trying to split is white poplar and its green fresh cut. They are small rounds about 8"x16". I'm using a light maul I think it's 8lbs if I remember correctly. An old guy told me to use an axe head as a wedge to split with, that's how he does it. I've tried it and it works until you run out of axe head in the log to fully split it.


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## stevohut (May 13, 2010)

Just watched some of those videos on uboob with using bungees and tires and those small splitting axes. I'm impressed and hey if that old guy can do it I better try harder I'm half his age.


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## logbutcher (May 13, 2010)

Fiskars Super Splitter.

Large diameter stump/butt not > 16" tall.

Two tires screwed and bolted to the top of the butt (watch those steel-belts in old tires!).

Problem solved.

#2. Get an electric hydraulic splitter (~$275.)


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## savageactor7 (May 13, 2010)

Poplar splits pretty easy imo ...try not splitting it in half shave some off the sides.

Lots of energy is wasted if the rounds aren't cutting square and you're always hitting angles. That's why armor plating is almost always presented at an angle.






^for hard to split rounds shaving off the sides might be the best bet for you.


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## BlueRidgeMark (May 13, 2010)

stevohut said:


> An old guy told me to use an axe head as a wedge to split with, that's how he does it.




Forget that crap! THAT is the source of your problem! 


If it's big enough to need wedges, use splitting wedges. You do NOT want something that has a handle sticking out to the side! That just makes the whole thing unbalanced and WAITING to fall over!


One well-placed whack with an 8 pound maul should split that stuff with no problem.


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## rmount (May 13, 2010)

Too late for this year but I try to do most of my hand splitting while there is still snow on the ground. Snow makes a great block holder, the rounds don't fall over. After you first stand it up you can half it then take a step to the side and quarter it or whatever. Leave it there till the snow melts then pick up a nice long row of split wood.


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## tals2 (May 13, 2010)

At 8" dia and 16" tall, your rounds are quite narrow and long. Something to keep in mind for future reference is: The shorter the rounds, the eaisier they split. When I am bucking up a tree, if I notice a piece that will likely not split easily (crotch, etc) I always make sure to cut it extra short. Less wood=less force required to split it.

It will also stand up better if it is shorter.

I split all mine with an 8 lb maul. Works great for 95% of the pieces. The other 5%? Leave them alone for a few days. Come home after work, hit them about 10 times. Do this a few times, if they still wont give, then noodle 'em. 

Good Luck.


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## twoden (May 13, 2010)

Keep a good sharp axe on hand to cut through stubborn bits of cross grain, a maul and an 10lb. hammer with a few splitting wedges and you should be able to split anything. Split hardwoods green, and soft wood when its seasoned.


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## stihl sawing (May 13, 2010)

dingeryote said:


> Screw the lightweight dull Maul bidness.
> 
> Mass=momentum. Ya don't split wood with velocity, ya gotta get the wedge/maul between the central fibers to get them apart.
> 
> ...


That sounds funny as heck, But i done the same thing for years and it works. You can split a lot of rounds in a short time. just go mad dog on em untill they all fall.


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## BlueRidgeMark (May 13, 2010)

rmount said:


> Too late for this year but I try to do most of my hand splitting while there is still snow on the ground. Snow makes a great block holder, the rounds don't fall over.




I use a big oak round as a splitting block. (40" or so, set on gravel.) 

Ground soaks up too much energy, unless it's frozen solid.


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## howellhandmade (May 13, 2010)

dingeryote said:


> Screw the lightweight dull Maul bidness.
> 
> Mass=momentum. Ya don't split wood with velocity, ya gotta get the wedge/maul between the central fibers to get them apart.
> 
> ...



I agree, dull and lightweight is a bad combination. But velocity does have a use -- without it, mass is just mass and there IS no momentum. The Fiskars does what it does by using less weight and optimizing for speed and focus of energy. It is quite sharp, and would make short work of 8"x16" poplar. But then, I'd think just about any splitting maul would do the same. On terminology, a maul is basically a handled wedge. While an axe is designed to cut chips, a maul is much fatter and heavier and taperd to split rather than cut. One face will be tapered to a wedge, while the other has a hammer face like a sledge for striking wedges. Except for tools like the Fiskars or Helko, of course -- those are splitting mauls but not meant for hammering wedges. A wedge has no handle. If you're having trouble starting wedges, you can noodle a groove in the log face with your saw.

Jac


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## indiansprings (May 13, 2010)

I use a big oak round as a splitting block. (40" or so, set on gravel.) 

Ground soaks up too much energy, unless it's frozen solid. 
Blue Ridge Mark


The above is also excellent advice. We also use a large oak splitting block.
If your placing them on the ground, your losing a lot of energy. Think of it like hitting a hammer on an anvil or hitting the hammer directly on the ground.
Throw away the axe for splitting get a good splitting maul, 8" x 16" ought to split with one good hit, if used on a splitting block.


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## gtsawyer (May 13, 2010)

dingeryote said:


> .....
> 
> Set up half a dozen rounds in a semi-circle, and with a single burst of focused rage, attack each one untill they are all split.
> 
> ...



 Funniest thing I've read all day. Now I'll be smiling every time I look in the backyard and see my next victims. "single burst of focused rage" hahahahahahaha


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## Mike PA (May 13, 2010)

Nail a tire to a log, fill up the tire with rounds, and swing away. I have used bungies, but find myself cutting too many bungies. Use a maul or splitting ax. Poplar should split fairly easily with a Fiskars Super Splitting Ax. I have one and like it a lot. Tough to split elm or gum, but on poplar, it works well. Like everyone else said, if you need a wedge, use a wedge, not an ax. A wedge is a much more efficient shape to split with.


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## gwiley (May 13, 2010)

I have been splitting 10 cords/year by hand, my tips:

1. Splitting wedges (the long tapered ones not the ones with a blunt edge) are perfect when struck by an 8# sledge

2. Use said wedges in large rounds only, keep 3 or 4 b/c some rounds will eat the wedges and you will need a way to free them.

3. A splitting axe or 6# maul applied with vigor to take chunks off the side (see above diagrma on other post) will eventually take care of just about any round.

4. If one round is too hard, move on to the next. Once you have a few bad ones, break out the saw and put a few inch deep notch in them to help get things rolling again.

5. Wear steel toe boots (broken toes are a good teacher).

6. Once you are truly worn out, stop. You MUST deliver each blow with authority or you are just wasting your time.

7. Practice aim until you can place the axe/maul head within 1/8" of the previous blow. This means staring at your target precisely where you intend to strike then follow through.

8. Swing THROUGH the round, not into it.

9. Extend your arms fully - the longer the distance between your shoulders and the striking head the faster you can get it going, F=MA (force = mass X acceleration).


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## stackwood (May 13, 2010)

On big rounds my man always work your way in not the other way out , start 3 to 4" on the out side of the round , break the integrity of the log and whoola it will split much easier. Hind site buy a splitter :deadhorse::deadhorse::deadhorse:


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## D&B Mack (May 13, 2010)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> I use a big oak round as a splitting block. (40" or so, set on gravel.)
> 
> Ground soaks up too much energy, unless it's frozen solid.



:agree2:

I bury half the splitting block as well, saves the maul's edge and doesn't move plus gets your log off the ground a little.


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## ZeroJunk (May 13, 2010)

> just go mad dog on em untill they all fall.




Screaming AHHHEEEEE or BONZAIIIIII helps.


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## discounthunter (May 13, 2010)

by the sound of your original post are you trying to pound your maul into your rounds with an sledge?

or is it a wedge pounding in with an sledge?

if you have a maul( usually 6-8 pounds,with a "blade" side and a "sledge" side and a handle)

that is all you need.

a wedge( triangular piece of metel similar to a maul head but no handle slot )is what i would use for a knotty piece or crotch piece


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## BlueRidgeMark (May 13, 2010)

D&B Mack said:


> :agree2:
> 
> I bury half the splitting block as well, saves the maul's edge and doesn't move plus gets your log off the ground a little.



Yep. Much easier on your back to have that elevated a bit. I put the top of the block about 12-14" above ground level.

You can deliver more power to it, too. Better all around!


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## banshee67 (May 13, 2010)

dingeryote said:


> Another method is what I call "Killing Cockaroaches".
> 
> Set up half a dozen rounds in a semi-circle, and with a single burst of focused rage, attack each one untill they are all split.



i absolutely agree 100% , this is the best way, BY FAR, to hand split wood!
the tedious process of one swing, bend over, pick it up, one swing, bend over pick it up, is not economical at all, it honestly makes it harder 
i like to conserve energy while standing a bunch of rounds up on end, 10-20, whatever you feel like, then grab the maul and go berserk for 5 mins, and then another rest while setting up more , this is 100 time s better than swing, bend over, swing, bend over


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## banshee67 (May 13, 2010)

howellhandmade said:


> The Fiskars does what it does by using less weight and optimizing for speed and focus of energy. It is quite sharp, and would make short work of 8"x16" poplar.



my fiskars could use a good sharpening but its still pretty dam sharp.. just for fun the other day i set up some 10" or so poplar rounds, straight grained, no knots, i was splitting them with one hand with the fiskars, not the safest, but i had to see if it could be done, one hand about 1/4 way up the shaft *(choked up like t-ball) and i was splitting them all no problem with one hand swings. the fiskars is awsome..for comparison, my 8lb maul would just bounce off and knock them over if i tried to swing with one hand, (please make a fiskars 6" longer tho) lol


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## TreePointer (May 13, 2010)

banshee67 said:


> (please make a fiskars 6" longer tho) lol



:blob4:

:wave:


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## KodiakKen (May 13, 2010)

*heavy maul?*

I am 6'3'' and 260 and I prefer a 6 pounder over the monster or even a 8 pounder. I can swing it all day long and not worry about wearing myself out I suppose I have enough azz to do what I need. I bought a cheap crapsman with a really skinny handle years ago..still my favorite. I have to admit. I don't like a shaving sharp edge on a splitting maul. Your splitting the wood not cutting it. I have heard when you get a fancy dancy new maul that you take a file and barely blunt the cutting edge. I have to say I would have trouble cutting butter with mine. Dings and dull..never had a problem splitting with it. why fix it if it ain't broke


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## Sierra99 (May 13, 2010)

Well, momentum cementum. 

Momentum and kinetic energy are confusing. And often confused. In fact I got confused trying to write this. Had to study up. In the context of splitting wood, where the split is accomplished after the ax penetrates a given distance, you want more kinetic energy to do the job, not more momentum. So swing that maul fast!

Ever wonder why that 4.5 lb Fiskars Supersplitter can beat an 8 lb maul in performance? Unless you're Hercules, most folks can accelerate the lighter hammer to a higher velocity, imparting more energy to it than the heavier maul. 

It has to do with impulse (force * time) versus work (force * distance). Momentum is proportional to impulse. Kinetic energy is proportional to work. the two are related of course, but the way to measure how much force gets applied through a given distance is to use the kinetic energy equation. 

Bottom line: a fast swing with a lighter maul splits with more *force* than a slow swing with heavier maul, even if they have the same momentum.

Example: Paul Bunyon's 8 lb maul strikes at 20 ft/sec. His gal Paulette has a 4 lb maul but strikes her round at 40 ft/sec. They both have the same momentum (mass * velocity). But Paulette's maul has twice the kinetic energy (1/2 * mass * velocity * velocity). The work performed by the mauls is equal to the kinetic energy. And work equals the average impact force times the distance travelled. So most people get a higher impact force using a lighter maul and a faster swing. This argument doesn't count for much if you own a 16 lb mega maul, I'm not sure why... 

Spllitting wood is more complicated than just kinetic energy expended because some energy is absorbed deforming the wood before it breaks. It's an inelastic collision: work is expended deforming the wood before it breaks. Different woods have variable elasticity. States of cure (dryness) also affects elasticity. 

I think "rate of loading" has a role: the faster the load is applied the more easily the wood breaks. Think of salt-water taffy sheets: you bend it slow and it deforms. Strike it and it shatters. Wood isn't taffy, I know. But it does have an anisotropic modulus of elasticity: bends easier someways than others. If you take a 1/2 inch branch sometimes you can snap it with a fast effort, but given a slow bend it just bends and does't break. I think this loading issue has a role unrelated to kinetic energy. 

The blade "wedge angle" also affects rate of loading... My theory: the speed of split propagation affects required total work to complete the split. I think this contributes to the Fiskar Super Split effectiveness over conventional mauls: you swing it faster, and it has a larger wedge angle so the energy is applied in a shorter distance, increasing the effective splitting force. 

Off topic: the flywheel SuperSplitter also splits at high speed: 2 ft/second, or 5 to 8 times faster than hydraulic splitters. Maybe that's why it performs well even though not as massively built. (Plus I bought one in March, and love the thing. Like splitting with Dynamite. But a lot safer.)


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## TreePointer (May 14, 2010)

Sierra99 said:


> Well, momentum cementum.
> 
> Momentum and kinetic energy are confusing. And often confused. In fact I got confused trying to write this. Had to study up. In the context of splitting wood, where the split is accomplished after the ax penetrates a given distance, you want more kinetic energy to do the job, not more momentum. So swing that maul fast!
> 
> ...



I think we're getting closer here. It's time, once again, for the *THEORETICAL SLEDGE HAMMER!* 

P = F / A (Pressure = Force / area)

Take a regular flat-headed sledge hammer and strike the end of a round of wood (a theoretical round if you wish ). All the force (*impact* force) of the hammer is applied in a circular area on top of the round and directed directly down into the wood (it was a perfect swing). What does this do? It doesn't split the wood; it only forces the round of wood into the ground (and possibly compresses the end of the round a little). 

Now reform that same sledge hammer head into a splitting maul with a sharp edge on one side. Use the same swing on that wood round, and the force is now concentrated into a much smaller area (something close to a line instead of a circle) on top of the round. Using the Pressure equation, then P is increased dramatically to the point at which the head is able to start breaking the cellular structure of the wood and start penetration. As soon as penetration starts, the wedge shaped head also starts pushing (forcing) the wood apart perpendicular to the direction of the swing. This force must be perpendicular to the swing plane because the wood flies apart in that direction. The distance the wood travels may be used in the work equation (W = F * d) to determine what amount of work the maul does on each split of wood created.


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## stihl sawing (May 14, 2010)

I've split a lot of wood by hand over the years and the best thing i found to bust open a round is the heavy monster maul. You can have the lightweight stuff. More weight equals more force hitting the log. unless you can't swing it very hard. I tried axes and other stuff but none would do the job like the big heavy maul. It's the one in the middle.








On rounds that were to big, The old steel wedge and a sledghammer would do it. Since i bought the splitter, these don't get used anymore.


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## twoden (May 14, 2010)

I always wondered why my father-in-law could split wood with less effort than I could after watching for a while I came to the conclusion......Practice, practice, practice, the more you swing whatever maul you have (make sure its a maul or splitting wedge) the more force/kinetic energy/speed/momentum you will be able to put into every swing, at 15 years old I scoffed when my dad told me there was a technique to digging with a pick and shovel. Now after having to dig with a pick and shovel quite a bit I agree with him, the same is true for splitting with a maul. efficiency of movement=a split piece of wood


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## cnice_37 (May 14, 2010)

I am surprised that in 3 pages of responses no one recommended to OP:

Split in the WINTER!!!

Frozen rounds split much easier. Its also much more pleasant to work in the cold and warm yourself up rather than sweat your balls off.

Other things I've learned:
1. No 1/2 arsed swings, you're wasting your energy. If you are tired, quit.
2. Read the wood. Find where it wants to split naturally. Hint: it's not always right down the middle.
3. On large rounds, work around the edges. If it's a beast then noodle it first.
4. I'm not a big person by any means, but an 8lb maul during the cold months and I can go for an easy 2 hours. 
5. Teach yourself how to split with both arms. This lets you split for a lot longer.
6. Split Y's from the backside.
7. When you are cutting into log lengths, think about splitting it later. Makes you think of square edges, figuring out where to put the notch,etc.
8. Beer is a very encouraging energy drink. Not good mix with saws, but hell yes for splitting!
9. If it's Elm, buy a splitter.


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## Blackjack1234 (May 14, 2010)

cnice_37 said:


> I am surprised that in 3 pages of responses no one recommended to OP:
> 
> Split in the WINTER!!!
> 
> ...



As I was reading thru these posts I was thinking the same thing - split in the winter!!! When I was splitting by hand I'd cut one day, stand all the pieces on end, then come back the next morning with my 8 pound maul and split away. Go thru and split a bunch, rest while you stand the big chunks back on end, then split some more. 

Also good advice on 'no half-hearted swings'. My technical term was 'critical mass', if I didn't reach critical mass with my swing, forget it. 

My other advice would be to throw the tough chunks/crotches to the side for splitting on a power splitter or recreational fire. Too much energy wasted on a crotch. 

Not sure if I agree with the putting the chunk to be split up on a block. Yes I agree that soft ground isn't good but putting a 16 inch block up on another 16 inch block would make it awful high.


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## twoden (May 14, 2010)

I use a splitting block but I cut one especially for that purpose it is only about 10" x 24" but it puts the wood off the ground so I don't ground my maul. and puts the point of impact at the apex of rotation. don't hit your toes/shins/knees, it won't happen twice.


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## stihl sawing (May 14, 2010)

LOL, I just gotta say this. All this about equations about splitting a log. Can you imagine what the old timers are thinkin. all the fancy equations is not going to get the job done. Splitting with a maul is just that, hard labor and brute force.Do all the figuring in the world but it all comes down to buying a decent maul and beatin the hell out of the rounds.


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## logbutcher (May 15, 2010)

stihl sawing said:


> I've split a lot of wood by hand over the years and the best thing i found to bust open a round is the heavy monster maul. You can have the lightweight stuff. More weight equals more force hitting the log. unless you can't swing it very hard. I tried axes and other stuff but none would do the job like the big heavy maul. It's the one in the middle.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yes, BUTT:
Wedges far left and far right have what I call "shrapnel tops". Grind them off to a 45 deg angle for safety. Keep smashing them with the Monster Maul or sledge, you take a serious chance of those corners flying off into your soft flesh. 

From doing the Monty Python dance to the ER. Duck tape staunching the blood, towels, and a lady partner getting a kick out of the whole male thing, then bonding with the ER people. That duct tape does stop the bleeding out, but watch out for the great rip-off. Tears. More tears. We Downeast people don't shave legs yet....like they do in the PNW. :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

PS Sierra99--nice explanation of the physics. Perfect, clear. Another PhD in the crowd ?


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## stihl sawing (May 15, 2010)

logbutcher said:


> Yes, BUTT:
> Wedges far left and far right have what I call "shrapnel tops". Grind them off to a 45 deg angle for safety. Keep smashing them with the Monster Maul or sledge, you take a serious chance of those corners flying off into your soft flesh.
> 
> From doing the Monty Python dance to the ER. Duck tape staunching the blood, towels, and a lady partner getting a kick out of the whole male thing, then bonding with the ER people. That duct tape does stop the bleeding out, but watch out for the great rip-off. Tears. More tears. We Downeast people don't shave legs yet....like they do in the PNW. :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
> ...


those are the good ones.lol wish i still had some of the mushroomed wedges i've had over the years. Yes flakes do fly off when they mushroom. The last one i throwed away had mushroomed half of the wedge. It was not salvagable. If i ground off the bad metal it would be too short. I always wore glasses when splitting too. Since the speeco found it's way home, those wedges are paper weights now.


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## stihl sawing (May 15, 2010)

Went out in the rain to dig this little gem up, Thought i had a worse one. From the pics you can see the metal chipping off. I bent some up to show in one pic. I was going to grind this one down but it's not needed now. I used to grind them down when they would get this bad and when they done it again they would get chunked. before i started grinding them down years ago, I would mushroom one twice as bad as this one and then toss it. I've wore out a bunch of them in 35 years.


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## BlueRidgeMark (May 15, 2010)

Blackjack1234 said:


> My other advice would be to throw the tough chunks/crotches to the side for splitting on a power splitter or recreational fire. Too much energy wasted on a crotch.




Yep. About a third or half of my wood is big crotches. That's one of the reasons I got a splitter.




Blackjack1234 said:


> Not sure if I agree with the putting the chunk to be split up on a block. Yes I agree that soft ground isn't good but putting a 16 inch block up on another 16 inch block would make it awful high.



Makes it just a little bit high, actually. You get more force into the wood. I like the block about 12" or so.


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## AKKAMAAN (May 15, 2010)

There is a lot of good and useful posts here now....
First of all.....technology has come to stay for us, wood-splitters....old mauls and axes, is like black and white tube TV sets from 1950, compared to what we use today....
To bad for people that think they are successful with old tools (see *stihl sawing*'s arsenal), and never tried an Fiskars Super Splitter, FSS, or the flywheel SuperSplitter.....

Why these new tools and power tools are so successful, is because they utilize the *speed and inertia* instead of raw mass, pushing force and high powered engines.

*Sierra99* nailed it here, and this has been posted a few times before too.....
double the mass will double the splitting energy, but doubling the speed will quadruple the splitting energy....So by taking half the weight off the head, you can double the speed and perform better, last longer and enjoy it more.....as simple as that......

Sharp tools always perform better than dull ones.....there is so many details on the design of the FSS, that make it perform the way it does, but the most important one is the sharpness and the polished head that reduce friction and allow deep penetration and actual splitting. Dull edges just push wood fiber in front of the edge, instead of splitting fiber apart..

My experience is that splitting with a FSS, allow a better and safer stance, more precious hits on the log.

It is also important to hit the first hit on a big round where it most likely would crack open.

Bundling smaller logs is also important for the safety, it is a larger area ti hit and mis hits will land safe on the bundle.....also remember to hit the opposite of the log or bundle....see my other (first edition) video....

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For using a tire on the chopping block, get a wide tire with low profile for a large diameter rim ex. 305/35R17, a 17" diameter hole, will give you a lot of space to fill with smaller logs, and good stability (10" tall)

I prefer to wrap a rope, bungee or even 5" stretch wrap could work, around my bundles, that way I can carry them to the stack....


Here is a couple splitters that use low power engines and inertia...
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## logbutcher (May 15, 2010)

stihl sawing said:


> Whew boy, you got some b--ls to split with those bombs. Maybe it's the Arkansas air, your vipers, the heat, or your ex-pres, but those wedges are a fire-in-the-hole. Damn. Kind of like "who can hold the Cherry Bomb the longest" before throwing it. :monkey: We got soemthing like that Downeast: on a below zero day, lick the bar of your saw.
> 
> It could be time for the Darwin Award for S² :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::


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## stihl sawing (May 15, 2010)

LOL, Well guess i'll take that darwin award. Yup i'm also old school. I watched the video of the fiskars, It works pretty slick, But it goes back to what i said. You still have to exert force and swing it to hit the wood. Always look for a crack first and aim at it.Glad you guys like my old timey wood weapons.lol But i don't use those any more. Done went modern even more than the fiskars. and yep, We are a strange bunch here in arkansas.lol Now where is my shoes??????


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## stackwood (May 16, 2010)

savageactor7 said:


> Poplar splits pretty easy imo ...try not splitting it in half shave some off the sides.
> 
> Lots of energy is wasted if the rounds aren't cutting square and you're always hitting angles. That's why armor plating is almost always presented at an angle.
> 
> ...



This is the best way yesssssss


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## gwiley (May 17, 2010)

*metal splinters*

Someone wrote earlier about the wedges splintering - that's right. Pay attention.

As the wedge head fractures the likelihood of a splinter increases - I have been hit in my "special purpose" by a chunk of steel. I am not sure which was worse, the pain from the impact or the shock of feeling a blow there as a result of a powerful swing of the sledge. The chunk that hit me was about a cubic 1-2" tangle of razor sharp edges and points - I shudder to think that would have happened if I wasn't wearing heavy duty work jeans (short/khakis....brrrr).

When using wedges you have to remember that they can fracture at any time and send a projectile at any part of your body. Glasses are absolutely a must if you split with hammer and wedge.


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## stevohut (May 20, 2010)

catfish1 said:


> Hate to ask, but - are you using an actual splitting maul, or a regular axe?



I am using a splitting maul its about 4lbs. I'm looking to find that super splitter from fiskars that everybody talks about. I'm just afraid to take a wild swing at it miss the log and takeout a foot or a shin.

steve


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## AKKAMAAN (May 21, 2010)

stevohut said:


> I am using a splitting maul its about 4lbs. I'm looking to find that super splitter from fiskars that everybody talks about. I'm just afraid to take a wild swing at it miss the log and takeout a foot or a shin.
> 
> steve



The Fiskars Super Splitter, is NOT the wild swing tool....it is a precision tool.....shorter controlled swing....use wrists too.....

search *firewood* on Youtube, my video is the second or third hit under the Palax wood processor....


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## stevohut (May 21, 2010)

AKKAMAAN said:


> The Fiskars Super Splitter, is NOT the wild swing tool....it is a precision tool.....shorter controlled swing....use wrists too.....
> 
> search *firewood* on Youtube, my video is the second or third hit under the Palax wood processor....




ya I saw your videos I was real impressed at how easy it looked like it was working with very little effort. Good ideas with the bungees and the tire. I never would have thought of that, so simple but effective.


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## howellhandmade (May 21, 2010)

AKKAMAAN said:


> The Fiskars Super Splitter, is NOT the wild swing tool....it is a precision tool.....shorter controlled swing....use wrists too.....
> 
> search *firewood* on Youtube, my video is the second or third hit under the Palax wood processor....



True. The shorter, more compact swing with a more pronounced wrist snap is more accurate. With the Fiskars, let your wrists cock at the beginning of the swing, then release the wrist lag at the end of the swing with your hands at waist level or below and your lower extremities will be safe. If you swing the Fiskars in a big arc like you would with a heavy, long-handled maul, the head will strike while your hands are still high, and a miss could continue the arc to your feet.

Jack


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## just a dave (May 21, 2010)

stihl sawing said:


> LOL, I just gotta say this. All this about equations about splitting a log. Can you imagine what the old timers are thinkin. all the fancy equations is not going to get the job done. Splitting with a maul is just that, hard labor and brute force.Do all the figuring in the world but it all comes down to buying a decent maul and beatin the hell out of the rounds.


:agree2::agree2::agree2:


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## WetBehindtheEar (May 27, 2010)

gwiley said:


> Glasses are absolutely a must if you split with hammer and wedge.



:agree2:

And, quite honestly, you should be wearig hearing protection, too. Those loud, high pitched, PINGs really wear on your hearing. 

If you're wearing hearing protection while running a saw, wear it for splitting too...

Tony, "WHAT?!?" in Madison where the tinnitus never stops. 

Seriously, it never stops... even hunting & fishing, isn't a quiet activity for me.


OH YEAH!... I almost forgot... can someone do a free body diagram of a wedge being driven into a log? I suppose you'd have to do an integral of some sort to come up with a summation of FBDs for the total split.


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