# I'm looking for a new log splitter



## sb47 (Dec 27, 2017)

I've used a Husky 22 ton splitter for 15 years now and I like that type of splitter. It's nice and slow and easy to control.
However, I'm getting tired of noodling big rounds down to manageable sises. I would love to have a log lift on my next unit. Any recommendations? Make, model, size, price, 
My budget is around $1,500. to $2,000. I would like it to be in the 30 ton range.
Thanks


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 27, 2017)

I don't think you're going to find anything _worthwhile_ in your price range with a lift.

Do you have a tractor with a loader?


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## sb47 (Dec 27, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> I don't think you're going to find anything _worthwhile_ in your price range with a lift.
> 
> Do you have a tractor with a loader?



My tractor is too small for that.
I would be willing to go a little higher then 2 grand.
What price range is an entry level splitter with a log lift?
How hard would it be to add one to my existing splitter.
What would be needed? Cylinder, hose, hand valve and some kind of rack.


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## WoodTick007 (Dec 28, 2017)

Only thing I am gonna say about a lift is that if you raise a 35"x18"(approx 650lbs) round of white Oak up to split your going to have 2 pieces 325lbs to deal with very quickly when it busts in half. You need to have a plan beyond a lift getting up on the beam.
Be careful with your new machine.


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## Husky Man (Dec 28, 2017)

I personally prefer splitting large/heavy rounds vertically, rather than horizontally, I find it more convenient. Our 27 ton DHT has split plenty in the 30-33" range, some pretty knotty spruce, we have been very happy with our splitter.

Doug


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## sb47 (Dec 28, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> Only thing I am gonna say about a lift is that if you raise a 35"x18"(approx 650lbs) round of white Oak up to split your going to have 2 pieces 325lbs to deal with very quickly when it busts in half. You need to have a plan beyond a lift getting up on the beam.
> Be careful with your new machine.



Good points but with a log lift, the lift itself will catch one side of the drop off. So that leaves only one side to deal with at a time.
Besides I can just let it fall to the ground if it's too heavy to handle. I have thought about using a truck bed crane and attach it to the splitter to lift the rounds with. I don't like splitting vertical, it's actually harder then horizontal, (in my opinion)
The 22 ton splits most of the wood just fine. But live oak is plentiful around here but it's very hard to split. Live oak is one of the best oaks for heat but a ***** to split. I have been rejecting loads of live oak just for that reason, Too damn hard to split.
My 22 ton will bust right through most knotty wood and forked wood just fine. Put a small piece of live oak on it and it will come to a dead stop.
Knotty pecan can be a challenge on a splitter as well. I only deal with cooking woods, Pecan, oak, mesquite, and hickory. 

I really like the looks of the Countyline 40 ton splitter from TS https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-40-ton-log-splitter
Or the DHT 35 ton unit https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...orizontal-vertical-log-splitter-kohler-engine

Any opinions on ether brand or modle? DHT or Countyline?

I've been selling wood for over 10 years now and no mater how much wood I stock up on, I sell out every year.


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## farmer steve (Dec 28, 2017)

sb47 said:


> Good points but with a log lift, the lift itself will catch one side of the drop off. So that leaves only one side to deal with at a time.
> Besides I can just let it fall to the ground if it's too heavy to handle. I have thought about using a truck bed crane and attach it to the splitter to lift the rounds with. I don't like splitting vertical, it's actually harder then horizontal, (in my opinion)
> The 22 ton splits most of the wood just fine. But live oak is plentiful around here but it's very hard to split. Live oak is one of the best oaks for heat but a ***** to split. I have been rejecting loads of live oak just for that reason, Too damn hard to split.
> My 22 ton will bust right through most knotty wood and forked wood just fine. Put a small piece of live oak on it and it will come to a dead stop.
> ...


i wanted the DHT after using one but the NEW countyline 25 ton came along for less than $700. that said watching all the DHT threads here it seems that anyone with an issue got great response from DHT with new parts etc. check your local Lowes store if you have one. they run some good deals on DHT and may price match other stores. good luck.


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## sb47 (Dec 28, 2017)

farmer steve said:


> i wanted the DHT after using one but the NEW countyline 25 ton came along for less than $700. that said watching all the DHT threads here it seems that anyone with an issue got great response from DHT with new parts etc. check your local Lowes store if you have one. they run some good deals on DHT and may price match other stores. good luck.



Yes I have noticed all the positive comments posted about the DHT brand. 
All these types of splitters are almost exactly alike, no mater what brand they are.
The Countyline 40 is a little bit larger then the DHT 35, though I suspect ether will do a good job.
I like that the Countyline is larger and it comes with an engine guard and the DHT does not.
I could add an engine guard easily enough to the DHT.
I'll check Lowes pricing before I buy.


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## sb47 (Dec 28, 2017)

I'm sure I'll still get many years out of my old splitter, but I think it's time to invest in a bigger unit. 
I can quarter up a big round with my saw in short order so figuring out a way skip that step needs to be just as easy and time saving.


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 28, 2017)

sb47 said:


> My tractor is too small for that.



Well, If you have a FEL and a set of skidding/lifting tongs, you can use the tractor to lift the heavier pieces and hold them.

BUT.....

I have found that its easier to make the pieces smaller on the ground rather than make them smaller with the splitter. I was never a noodler, but I will to prevent having to deal with 2 heavy pieces off the ground.

You can also build a staging table to set next to your splitter to lift pieces onto so you don't have to lift them manually, more than once. Would be WAY less than 2+ grand. Even if you are looking into buying a bigger splitter... Ive got a CUT tractor and I size my logs so the tractor can lift them onto my DIY cutting deck. Rounds get rolled onto a staging table and then rolled onto the splitter. I rarely have to lift anything other than a finished split to toss into the trailer or a tote.



sb47 said:


> What price range is an entry level splitter with a log lift?



I think these are the least expensive option with a log lift, at least that I found when I was looking... Mind you I didn't go that option and instead bought a Super Split and elevated my work area.

22 ton 

37 ton

I think Northern Tool sells a comparable model to the above as well....



sb47 said:


> How hard would it be to add one to my existing splitter.
> What would be needed? Cylinder, hose, hand valve and some kind of rack.



Not hard at all if you have the skills, or are willing to pay a fabricator to do it. I don't know the particulars, but it is possible.


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 28, 2017)

sb47 said:


> I'm sure I'll still get many years out of my old splitter, but I think it's time to invest in a bigger unit.
> I can quarter up a big round with my saw in short order so *figuring out a way skip that step needs to be just as easy and time saving.*



I, personally, have found that this can become very expensive. Ive been through several iterations of my process, all thinking that what I'm doing is going to make things easier.... What Ive found is that I don't have pockets willing to expand to the size necessary to fall in line with my desires. So I bit the bullet on a quality, fast splitter and then built a staging/cutting table.

Keep in mind I ended up buying a new tractor with a FEL. I needed a new tractor anyway, but if I wasn't wanting to have the loader, I could have gone way smaller and less expensive.


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 28, 2017)

Oh... case in point... Go check out the Eastonmade thread just down the list.... Id trade my SS for one of those in a heartbeat.... If I could afford it.


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## rarefish383 (Dec 28, 2017)

Did you think of using a HF 1000 pound motor cycle lift? They are only $400 before coupons, if they qualify. You set it next to the splitter, it will lower flat to the ground, load 2 or 3 big rounds, lift it up level to the splitter. With straight Oak I can split a slab, off center, so I don't have a 300 pound chunk falling on me, and the lift acts as a table for the other side, Joe.


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 28, 2017)

As long as it will lift high enough. Shoot, you could build a table to sit on it and increase the surface area as well.


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## Streblerm (Dec 28, 2017)

I know it isn’t the preferred position for many people but why not just use the splitter you have in the vertical position to quarter the big rounds into manageable pieces? My 22t husky has no problem with the big rounds.

Otherwise I think you’ll spend around $4k minimum on a splitter with log lift.


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## rarefish383 (Dec 28, 2017)

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/lifts-stands.html


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## sb47 (Dec 28, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Well, If you have a FEL and a set of skidding/lifting tongs, you can use the tractor to lift the heavier pieces and hold them.
> 
> BUT.....
> 
> ...




I've been running on just one splitter for over 10 years now and I have no plans to stop any time soon.
Business is great so I think it's time to invest in a new (bigger) splitter and to have a back up and replacement for the old unit that has so many hours on it.
My tractor is small but it does have a 3 point hitch. I've pondered the idea of getting forks for it to move rounds with. My tractor is too small for a front loader so it will have to use the 3 point hitch.
Putting forks on the tractor will let me pick up rounds, but not very far off the ground. 2 feet at best.
But if the round is laying flat, I might could use the forks to possion the round under the splitter and go vertical.

I (need-want) a bigger splitter and I want to try and make work a little easier too.


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## sb47 (Dec 28, 2017)

Streblerm said:


> I know it isn’t the preferred position for many people but why not just use the splitter you have in the vertical position to quarter the big rounds into manageable pieces?




The old splitter is old. Business is good and I'm turning away premium quality firewood because my currant splitter is not worthy of such tasks.


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## rarefish383 (Dec 28, 2017)

I do't have one. I have two trailers so I put the splitter between the trailers and split from one and toss onto the other. But. I keep thinking about the lift for when I dump loads. I split most of my wood on the paved court in front of the house so I have a nice smooth, stable splitting surface to work from. The motor cycle lift would be nice because I could roll it off the court, I can't set up anything permanent there, Joe.


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## sb47 (Dec 28, 2017)

rarefish383 said:


> https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/lifts-stands.html



Interesting idea you have there.


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## NSMaple1 (Dec 28, 2017)

A $1500-2000 investment is not much of a splitter investment for a business that is doing so good. That won't get you past the capabilities of what you have now, really.

What do you have for a tractor? It doesn't take a real big one to lift a big round with the FEL. Unless these are really monster rounds you are talking about - which makes the 1500-2000 budget look even more questionable.


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## sb47 (Dec 28, 2017)

rarefish383 said:


> I do't have one. I have two trailers so I put the splitter between the trailers and split from one and toss onto the other. But. I keep thinking about the lift for when I dump loads. I split most of my wood on the paved court in front of the house so I have a nice smooth, stable splitting surface to work from. The motor cycle lift would be nice because I could roll it off the court, I can't set up anything permanent there, Joe.



I'm on grass and dirt, so rolling around a lift might create more work for me. Good idea for you, since you can roll it around.


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## sb47 (Dec 28, 2017)

NSMaple1 said:


> A $1500-2000 investment is not much of a splitter investment for a business that is doing so good. That won't get you past the capabilities of what you have now, really.
> 
> What do you have for a tractor? It doesn't take a real big one to lift a big round with the FEL. Unless these are really monster rounds you are talking about - which makes the 1500-2000 budget look even more questionable.



Kobota B5200 with 3 point hitch only. No front loader.

Increasing the budget has crossed my mind and can be done.


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## Woodcutteranon (Dec 28, 2017)

Try this splitter

https://www.ruggedmade.com/log-spli...-lift-48-563-322-rt06pc-13-225-150-ll-ct.html


I almost purchased their 37 ton splitter. They seem to get good reviews on Youtube. The 22 ton on the link provided is their lowest price splitter with a lift and it's under $1500. I have seen them at times advertised with free shipping.

WCA


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## rarefish383 (Dec 28, 2017)

My BIL has an 18HP BX with FEL and it works great for staging firewood. I'm thinking about betting one for my lawns and selling my 52" zero turn. The new "Bota with 54" mower, FEL, and 9 bushel grass catcher is $16000. More than I wanted to spend, but 2 of my lawns are almost 2 acres and the BX would work better on them. But, that means I'll have to keep mowing for 5 years till it's paid for, Joe.


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## sb47 (Dec 28, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> I, personally, have found that this can become very expensive. Ive been through several iterations of my process, all thinking that what I'm doing is going to make things easier.... What Ive found is that I don't have pockets willing to expand to the size necessary to fall in line with my desires. So I bit the bullet on a quality, fast splitter and then built a staging/cutting table.
> 
> Keep in mind I ended up buying a new tractor with a FEL. I needed a new tractor anyway, but if I wasn't wanting to have the loader, I could have gone way smaller and less expensive.



Thats a good reason I want to hear everyone's opinion now before I spend any money.
I do need a heaver duty splitter, the 22 ton struggles on some wood and flat out cant make it through live oak.
I value the opinions from folks that have been doing it for a long time.


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## sb47 (Dec 28, 2017)

Woodcutteranon said:


> Try this splitter
> 
> https://www.ruggedmade.com/log-spli...-lift-48-563-322-rt06pc-13-225-150-ll-ct.html
> 
> ...



I have not used a push through type before. 
I wish there was a way to try them out first. I might prefer a push through, but I'd have to split a few cords first.


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 28, 2017)

One of the benefits of a "push through" is the ability to throw on a 4 way. Friend of mine has a Timberwolf with a slip on 4 way that I used a bit and it makes splitting MUCH faster. Yes, you have to reach and grab the pieces that need to be re-split, but @Sandhill Crane would be happy to tell you about the benefits of a pulp hook. I dont use one because I don't let the splits get far enough away from me that I cant reach and grab, but I do recognize the benefit of not reaching to grab things in regards to saving ones back and energy.


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 28, 2017)

Here ya go sb.... But you're gonna pay for it!


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## kevin j (Dec 28, 2017)

When you compare ads between 25-28-30-32 tons, etc, be aware most of the numbers are part BS. Force is cylinder area x pressure, and many of the advertised numbers are at higher pressure than the units operate or are set at. For example, some ‘rate’ the tons number at 3500 psi even though the relief is set at 2500 and cannot achieve 3500, nor are the hoses and structural rated at 3500 psi.

Basically, compare cylinder bore (inside diameter) as most systems can safely be adjusted to handle about 3000 psi max.

I added a log lift to a small 4 inch consumer splitter. Has stabilizer legs so it doesn’t tip to that side. Power beyond valve, small cylilnder, QC, hoses and steel were about $500. My labor and welding.


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## sundance (Dec 28, 2017)

sb47 said:


> I have not used a push through type before.
> I wish there was a way to try them out first. I might prefer a push through, but I'd have to split a few cords first.



The 37 ton unit looks more like what you're after......but more than $2K. With the catcher tray it should work well. 

I'd assume the splitter is the centerpiece of your operation. As such I'd make a good investment in it.


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## WoodTick007 (Dec 28, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Here ya go sb.... But you're gonna pay for it!





CaseyForrest said:


> Here ya go sb.... But you're gonna pay for it!



I am sorry, but that is a very poorly designed and built machine. It also appears that it requires three or four men to wrestle with a 25" round of wood. The wood ended on the ground more than once. Watch the splitter wiggle and shimmy as two/three men wrestle with the log half to get it into position. I honestly was expecting for the whole machine to just fall into pieces. That medium sized round should have been easily split by one man and loaded into a wheel barrow transport to his stacking area.
To the person who says use the lift as a staging area and to catch one half of the split round. That is find and dandy if the lift if is built with a upward wing that extends 24 inches beyond the splitting wedge on a pass thru designed splitter.
The video of this splitter demonstrates four men doing the work of one.


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## Deleted member 117362 (Dec 28, 2017)

+1^ Would not work around that machine with that many hands in the mix!


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## jrider (Dec 28, 2017)

What knd of volume are you doing? You may want to think of investing more money and get a bigger faster machine.


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 28, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> I am sorry, but that is a very poorly designed and built machine. It also appears that it requires three or four men to wrestle with a 25" round of wood. The wood ended on the ground more than once. Watch the splitter wiggle and shimmy as two/three men wrestle with the log half to get it into position. I honestly was expecting for the whole machine to just fall into pieces. That medium sized round should have been easily split by one man and loaded into a wheel barrow transport to his stacking area.
> To the person who says use the lift as a staging area and to catch one half of the split round. That is find and dandy if the lift if is built with a upward wing that extends 24 inches beyond the splitting wedge on a pass thru designed splitter.
> The video of this splitter demonstrates four men doing the work of one.



Did we watch the same video?


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## muddstopper (Dec 28, 2017)




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## Deleted member 117362 (Dec 28, 2017)

muddstopper said:


>



That looks a lot better! Almost looks like cheating.


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## Sandhill Crane (Dec 28, 2017)

WoodTick007: What are you splitting with?


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## WoodTick007 (Dec 28, 2017)

Sandhill Crane said:


> WoodTick007: What are you splitting with?


It is an old backyard i built job... I try to work smarter and not harder. Once the log is on the splitter it stays at or above working height until it get split into burnable sizes. The wood I get must stay in upright rounds that can be rolled to the splitter. . . or it is too heavy for me to get upright again. I have considered adding a small crane like sold at hf with a small 12v remote controlled winch. Too many good ideas....too little time to do them.


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## sb47 (Dec 28, 2017)

jrider said:


> What knd of volume are you doing? You may want to think of investing more money and get a bigger faster machine.



It varies from year to year so I'm only guessing but about 80+ cords a year. I've been working my 22 ton to death. I really need a heaver splitter, and since I'm in the market, for one, I might as well look at ones with log lifts while I'm at it. I am going to get a bigger machine and I'm getting close to pulling the trigger. I just wanted a few more opinions before I do.


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## jrider (Dec 28, 2017)

sb47 said:


> It varies from year to year so I'm only guessing but about 80+ cords a year. I've been working my 22 ton to death. I really need a heaver splitter, and since I'm in the market, for one, I might as well look at ones with log lifts while I'm at it. I am going to get a bigger machine and I'm getting close to pulling the trigger. I just wanted a few more opinions before I do.


It's time to bite the bullet and step up to a larger faster machine. You won't be sorry. Time is money and saving your back is priceless


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## Ryan'smilling (Dec 28, 2017)

sb47 said:


> It varies from year to year so I'm only guessing but about 80+ cords a year. I've been working my 22 ton to death. I really need a heaver splitter, and since I'm in the market, for one, I might as well look at ones with log lifts while I'm at it. I am going to get a bigger machine and I'm getting close to pulling the trigger. I just wanted a few more opinions before I do.




Boy, for 80+ cords a year I'd probably stop looking at price tags and start looking at what would really save time. Auto cycle, 4-way, log lift, outfeed table, etc. I'd suggest taking a look at the Wolfe Ridge MFG splitters. You'd have to really compare each detail to find out which manufacturer you like the best, but Wolfe Ridge seems to give you some pretty good features at an entry level price.


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## sb47 (Dec 28, 2017)

Ryan'smilling said:


> Boy, for 80+ cords a year I'd probably stop looking at price tags and start looking at what would really save time. Auto cycle, 4-way, log lift, outfeed table, etc. I'd suggest taking a look at the Wolfe Ridge MFG splitters. You'd have to really compare each detail to find out which manufacturer you like the best, but Wolfe Ridge seems to give you some pretty good features at an entry level price.



Those are some sharp looking splitters, I can't find any pricing for them.


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## Ryan'smilling (Dec 28, 2017)

sb47 said:


> Those are some sharp looking splitters, I can't find any pricing for them.



He's got his standard model listed on our local Craigslist for $5699. That includes a log lift, table, and 4-way, as I understand it. Not cheap, but less than Timberwolf by a decent margin I think. And upgrades are reasonable. When we talked I think he said he can ship just about anywhere in the US for $500 or so.


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## sb47 (Dec 29, 2017)

Ryan'smilling said:


> He's got his standard model listed on our local Craigslist for $5699. That includes a log lift, table, and 4-way, as I understand it. Not cheap, but less than Timberwolf by a decent margin I think. And upgrades are reasonable. When we talked I think he said he can ship just about anywhere in the US for $500 or so.




I watched some vids of it in action and it looks like a very nice unit. In all of the vids they used dry strait grain wood in there demos. I would like to see it in action on some large green live oak, post oak and pecan.


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## sb47 (Dec 29, 2017)

I have been thinking of putting on a lift crane to lift the rounds. I just found this vid that shows what I thought about trying. Seems someone else had the same idea.


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## sb47 (Dec 29, 2017)

Here is one by Brute Force, this thing can split wood as fast as you can load it.


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## NSMaple1 (Dec 29, 2017)

Looks like the budget has been upped.


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## al-k (Dec 29, 2017)

I like this one, if I had money.


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 29, 2017)

sb47 said:


> Here is one by Brute Force, this thing can split wood as fast as you can load it.




Dont get fooled by high production like in the video. ALOT of those splits should be split again. And now they are buried in a pile.


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## WoodTick007 (Dec 29, 2017)

sb47 said:


> Here is one by Brute Force, this thing can split wood as fast as you can load it.



Any one know who makes the cylinder in this video? What about a cost effective clone of one of these cylinders? This appears to be a very fast maching.


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## blades (Dec 29, 2017)

to speed up any cylinder you need larger ports than the 1/2" without changing the pressure range. it boils down how fast you can fill and empty the cylinder. increasing the flow gets part way there ( 11gpm -13gpb -22gom) but gets pricy pump and motor wise. 3/4" ports and lines through out the system can make a big difference with out changing the pump or pressure range.


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## sb47 (Dec 29, 2017)

al-k said:


> I like this one, if I had money.





This one looks hard on the back. See the way he is standing? Looks like he is leaning forward. That would make my back cry uncle in no time.


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## sb47 (Dec 29, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Dont get fooled by high production like in the video. ALOT of those splits should be split again. And now they are buried in a pile.



Yes some pieces need splitting again. But he is also only using a 4 way wedge, A 6 way wedge should help keep from needing to re run pieces. You have to agree this splitter is fast and sounds like it has power to spare.


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## CaseyForrest (Dec 29, 2017)

sb47 said:


> Yes some pieces need splitting again. But he is also only using a 4 way wedge, A 6 way wedge should help keep from needing to re run pieces. You have to agree this splitter is fast and sounds like it has power to spare.



No doubt...


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## Ryan'smilling (Dec 29, 2017)

sb47 said:


> I watched some vids of it in action and it looks like a very nice unit. In all of the vids they used dry strait grain wood in there demos. I would like to see it in action on some large green live oak, post oak and pecan.



We don't have any of those species up here. I have a three point splitter that he (Wolfe Ridge) made. Mine's run on a single stage PTO pump. I usually run it on a tractor that only has 23 HP, which means I have to turn the relief pressure down to about 1800 psi. At that pressure, I occasionally find a white oak crotch I can't split. Otherwise, it goes through room and everything else I've thrown at it just fine.

I think there's three basic variables to splitting ability, cylinder size, operating pressure, and wedge design. You should be able to get a 4, 4.5, or 5" cylinder from any if the big manufacturers. Unless I'm mistaken, Eastonmade is the only one doing anything higher than 2500 psi. Wedge design is pretty variable. Some like Wolfe Ridge, Eastonmade, and the one in the video you posted are pretty narrow, while others like Timberwolf are much wider. I don't know if either is "better" but the narrower ones seem like they'll cut through nasty rounds more easily. 

I guess what I'm getting at is that regardless of tonnage "ratings", look at the cylinder size and pump pressure. If you see one doing what you like, chances are that another manufacturers model with the same configuration will do the same thing.


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## sb47 (Dec 29, 2017)

Ryan'smilling said:


> We don't have any of those species up here. I have a three point splitter that he (Wolfe Ridge) made. Mine's run on a single stage PTO pump. I usually run it on a tractor that only has 23 HP, which means I have to turn the relief pressure down to about 1800 psi. At that pressure, I occasionally find a white oak crotch I can't split. Otherwise, it goes through room and everything else I've thrown at it just fine.
> 
> I think there's three basic variables to splitting ability, cylinder size, operating pressure, and wedge design. You should be able to get a 4, 4.5, or 5" cylinder from any if the big manufacturers. Unless I'm mistaken, Eastonmade is the only one doing anything higher than 2500 psi. Wedge design is pretty variable. Some like Wolfe Ridge, Eastonmade, and the one in the video you posted are pretty narrow, while others like Timberwolf are much wider. I don't know if either is "better" but the narrower ones seem like they'll cut through nasty rounds more easily.
> 
> I guess what I'm getting at is that regardless of tonnage "ratings", look at the cylinder size and pump pressure. If you see one doing what you like, chances are that another manufacturers model with the same configuration will do the same thing.



Don't forget hose fitting sises and hose size and even control valve size all play a part in power and speed.
I think the one made by Brute Force should power through any wood with a single wedge with no problem. A 4 or 6 way may have issues with exstreamley tough wood.
The one in the video looks to have about a 5'' cylinder with a 3'' shaft. That should provide some decent power.


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## Ryan'smilling (Dec 29, 2017)

sb47 said:


> Don't forget hose fitting sises and hose size and even control valve size all play a part in power and speed.
> I think the one made by Brute Force should power through any wood with a single wedge with no problem. A 4 or 6 way may have issues with exstreamley tough wood.
> The one in the video looks to have about a 5'' cylinder with a 3'' shaft. That should provide some decent power.




You're right about the valves and fittings. They really affect the speed. The force, I don't think they really matter though. If the pump is making 2500 psi, that's what the cylinder is gonna get. Fittings may slow the flow though. 

Cylinder size is a trade-off. Bigger gives more power obviously, but slows things down. You can up the flow, but once you start getting into 20+ GPM, stuff starts to get expensive. At that flow, especially with a big rod (which only affects return speed/power) when you're retracting the rod, you might be putting 20 GPM into the return side, but the amount coming out of the extend side is way more. Getting valves and fittings to accommodate that is spendy. 

I think pretty much every splitter with a 4-way is made so that the 4 or 6 it whatever way is removable. I would be pretty amazed if there was any wood you couldn't split with a 5" cylinder at 2500 psi and a regular single wedge. That's almost 50,000# of force. Like I said, mine will split just about anything at 1700# though a 4-way.


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## sb47 (Dec 29, 2017)

Ryan'smilling said:


> You're right about the valves and fittings. They really affect the speed. The force, I don't think they really matter though. If the pump is making 2500 psi, that's what the cylinder is gonna get. Fittings may slow the flow though.
> 
> Cylinder size is a trade-off. Bigger gives more power obviously, but slows things down. You can up the flow, but once you start getting into 20+ GPM, stuff starts to get expensive. At that flow, especially with a big rod (which only affects return speed/power) when you're retracting the rod, you might be putting 20 GPM into the return side, but the amount coming out of the extend side is way more. Getting valves and fittings to accommodate that is spendy.
> 
> I think pretty much every splitter with a 4-way is made so that the 4 or 6 it whatever way is removable. I would be pretty amazed if there was any wood you couldn't split with a 5" cylinder at 2500 psi and a regular single wedge. That's almost 50,000# of force. Like I said, mine will split just about anything at 1700# though a 4-way.




All good points. I may put off a new splitter until the budget allows for a better machine.
I do know my 22 ton can't split live oak. Could be the pump is getting weak after 15 years and several thousand cords of wood.
My tree digger gets weak over time and it's always the pump. 
I may try a new pump if there cheap enough and see if I see any improvement in the old splitter. I'm gonna need a new machine soon though.


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## WoodTick007 (Dec 29, 2017)

You could try replacing the cylinder. There are available from the Surplus center.com relatively cheap. Or you can try eBay. It could be after all that time the cylinders worn out and it's leaking internally causing it to lose force or pressure. I would guess that cylinder can be bought for between $199 and $300


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## sundance (Dec 29, 2017)

sb47 said:


> All good points. I may put off a new splitter until the budget allows for a better machine.
> I do know my 22 ton can't split live oak. Could be the pump is getting weak after 15 years and several thousand cords of wood.
> My tree digger gets weak over time and it's always the pump.
> I may try a new pump if there cheap enough and see if I see any improvement in the old splitter. I'm gonna need a new machine soon though.



Could you split the live oak in the past? If so likely cylinder or pump......if not, why would it change?


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## sb47 (Dec 29, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> You could try replacing the cylinder. There are available from the Surplus center.com relatively cheap. Or you can try eBay. It could be after all that time the cylinders worn out and it's leaking internally causing it to lose force or pressure. I would guess that cylinder can be bought for between $199 and $300




I have a hydrolic shop that we use to rebuild cylinders off the tree spade at work. Not sure what they will charge to repack the seals on such a small cylinder.
I'll have to measure it and call and see. I never tried live oak until the splitter already had a lot of hours on it. The motor is on it's last leg as well, that's another 200 bucks.
My old splitter needs wheel bearings and seals, new motor, and possibly a new pump and or cylinder. So I'm looking at at least 600+ to get it up to speed. Oh, and the hoses are looking old and dry rotted as well. Tires are old and dry rotted too.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Dec 29, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> Only thing I am gonna say about a lift is that if you raise a 35"x18"(approx 650lbs) round of white Oak up to split your going to have 2 pieces 325lbs to deal with very quickly when it busts in half. You need to have a plan beyond a lift getting up on the beam.
> Be careful with your new machine.



I don't think a block of oaks weighs that much! If so, a cord would weigh around 16,000lbs!


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## Knobby57 (Dec 29, 2017)

I’ve seen the relief valve spring get week after some age and use . You may want to check your working pressure . May just need a ajustment before you dump some cash on a new pump


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## Ryan'smilling (Dec 29, 2017)

Knobby57 said:


> I’ve seen the relief valve spring get week after some age and use . You may want to check your working pressure . May just need a ajustment before you dump some cash on a new pump



I was gonna suggest Teeing in a pressure gauge also. Should at least let you know where to start looking. Doesn't cost much.


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## sb47 (Dec 29, 2017)

Ryan'smilling said:


> I was gonna suggest Teeing in a pressure gauge also. Should at least let you know where to start looking. Doesn't cost much.



Where can I get a pressure gauge? Harbor Freight maybe?


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## Ryan'smilling (Dec 29, 2017)

sb47 said:


> Where can I get a pressure gauge? Harbor Freight maybe?



Jesus, no!! 2500 psi, remember?? Northern tool, Bailey's, surplus center, Amazon, your local shop that rebuilds cylinders, a tractor dealership, etc. You'll need a T with the appropriate threads also.


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## sundance (Dec 30, 2017)

Make sure to use high pressure fittings as well.


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## Knobby57 (Dec 30, 2017)

Ryan'smilling said:


> Jesus, no!! 2500 psi, remember?? Northern tool, Bailey's, surplus center, Amazon, your local shop that rebuilds cylinders, a tractor dealership, etc. You'll need a T with the appropriate threads also.


Haha that’s was the first thing to go through my mind also . Over 1000 psi of any fluid can get ugly really really fast . You do not want to get hit with a steam of oil at that pressure . It will not end well . I use a otc oil pressure gauge set . One gauge in the kit goes to I think 250 psi and the other is I think 5000 psi . It has all sorts of fittings in the kit as well for hooking to equipment . You will need to come up with a t fitting of some sort . Black pipe flitting is a huge no no . High pressure fitting only . I think I paid about 150 $ for the entire kit and it’s handy if you are dealing with needing to know pressure . You can tee in a stand alone gauge that has a 1/4 pipe thread . I just looked a otc tonnage gage is about 80-140 $ depending on pressure , there are cheaper ones down to 2
15-20$ on amizon but I don’t think I would trust them all that much . If you want put the gauge I a protected place you can see and monitor it’s presure over time and leave it . I’ve been wanting to have a gauge mounted on mine .. You only will need a gauge that 0-5k psi . Don’t go past 3000 on your pressure . If your hoses look at all in poor shape change them now and maybe your fluid and filter also . I’m a cheaper so I tend to let my return hoses get pretty ugly before I change them . Return lines don’t operate at high pressure .


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## sb47 (Dec 30, 2017)

Knobby57 said:


> Haha that’s was the first thing to go through my mind also . Over 1000 psi of any fluid can get ugly really really fast . You do not want to get hit with a steam of oil at that pressure . It will not end well . I use a otc oil pressure gauge set . One gauge in the kit goes to I think 250 psi and the other is I think 5000 psi . It has all sorts of fittings in the kit as well for hooking to equipment . You will need to come up with a t fitting of some sort . Black pipe flitting is a huge no no . High pressure fitting only . I think I paid about 150 $ for the entire kit and it’s handy if you are dealing with needing to know pressure . You can tee in a stand alone gauge that has a 1/4 pipe thread . I just looked a otc tonnage gage is about 80-140 $ depending on pressure , there are cheaper ones down to 2
> 15-20$ on amizon but I don’t think I would trust them all that much . If you want put the gauge I a protected place you can see and monitor it’s presure over time and leave it . I’ve been wanting to have a gauge mounted on mine .. You only will need a gauge that 0-5k psi . Don’t go past 3000 on your pressure . If your hoses look at all in poor shape change them now and maybe your fluid and filter also . I’m a cheaper so I tend to let my return hoses get pretty ugly before I change them . Return lines don’t operate at high pressure .




Thanks, I have been repairing and replacing hydrolic lines, pumps and cylinders on my Big John tree spad for 30 years. I'm well aware of of the pressures I'm dealing with. I just had a thought. My tree spade has a gauge on it. I might just borrow that one to check my pressure, instead of buying one. I don't really need to monitor it full time. I just need an idea of where it is at this point. 
I would love a high production machine and I think I have the volume to support it. However like always, there's always something that comes up that takes my spending money I had saved up. I may have to limp along on my currant splitter until the budget will allow me to get what I need and want. My budget is around 4 grand at this point, enough to get the 40 ton unit that I was looking at, but it's not enough to get a high production unit that I really want and need.


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## blades (Dec 30, 2017)

15 ton will split anything just about with the proper wedge, wide wedges eat a lot of power up, pop stuff apart fairy quickly. Thin wedges slice through just about everything. I use a thin wedge with a spreader in behind. But it just me and I ain't in no big hurry ( that just gets ya hurt). multi split wedges of various designs all require quite a bit more omph. They sure seem to make a lot of kindling though. I have used a 4 way wing type- more trouble than it was worth to me. Only thing I can say is, if going to use a multi split wedge the unit better be designed for that in the first place. There is a lot more stress being put on and transmitted to the beam , push plate, & wedge assembly.


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## Andyshine77 (Dec 30, 2017)

blades said:


> 15 ton will split anything just about with the proper wedge, wide wedges eat a lot of power up, pop stuff apart fairy quickly. Thin wedges slice through just about everything. I use a thin wedge with a spreader in behind. But it just me and I ain't in no big hurry ( that just gets ya hurt). multi split wedges of various designs all require quite a bit more omph. They sure seem to make a lot of kindling though. I have used a 4 way wing type- more trouble than it was worth to me. Only thing I can say is, if going to use a multi split wedge the unit better be designed for that in the first place. There is a lot more stress being put on and transmitted to the beam , push plate, & wedge assembly.


I like to keep the wedge on my 22T splitter really sharp, that way it will cut right through anything. 

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## sb47 (Dec 31, 2017)

Andyshine77 said:


> I like to keep the wedge on my 22T splitter really sharp, that way it will cut right through anything.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk



Mine was so sharp, I cut myself several times just bumping into it. I had to knock the edge off a little just for safety reasons.


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## Andyshine77 (Dec 31, 2017)

sb47 said:


> Mine was so sharp, I cut myself several times just bumping into it. I had to knock the edge off a little just for safety reasons.


Is live Oak really that hard to split? I'm thinking something might be up with your splitter, checking the pressure is definitely a good place to start. I've split a lot of wood with my 22T Huskee and have only stopped it one time on a nasty crotch. If the wood is really large I just noodle it up instead of wrestling with it.

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## sb47 (Dec 31, 2017)

Andyshine77 said:


> Is live Oak really that hard to split? I'm thinking something might be up with your splitter, checking the pressure is definitely a good place to start. I've split a lot of wood with my 22T Huskee and have only stopped it one time on a nasty crotch. If the wood is really large I just noodle it up instead of wrestling with it.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk




Live oak is kinda stringy with a grain that is kinda weaved together. Even strait grained live oak is weaved together and doesn't come apart very easy. Live oak that grows in the open, never has any strait grain wood. It's full of knots and branches that are close together and twist and lots of crooks. It doesn't pop apart like red oak. You have to do a full stroke on every split and the pry it apart. It's one of the best oaks for firewood and cooking. The old splitter has no problem getting through knotty post oak and red oak, She struggles with pecan a bit too. Bear in mind I split green wood, not dry. Log wood doesn't keep well in my area. It punks out fast if you don't get it busted up fairly quick.


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## [email protected] (Dec 31, 2017)

Best deal right now is probably the woods 27 ton, with an 8hp Koehler motor... $999.99. Horizontal and vertical operation.

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## Cody (Dec 31, 2017)

sb47 said:


> I have been thinking of putting on a lift crane to lift the rounds. I just found this vid that shows what I thought about trying. Seems someone else had the same idea.




Wow! I really like that one, can see a few changes I'd make but otherwise spot on. My favorite thing about hydro splitters are all the scraps and small pieces. 



sb47 said:


> This one looks hard on the back. See the way he is standing? Looks like he is leaning forward. That would make my back cry uncle in no time.



Agreed, bending over and back up doesn't bother me, but being bent over for any period of time strains my back pretty good.



ValleyFirewood said:


> I don't think a block of oaks weighs that much! If so, a cord would weigh around 16,000lbs!



I don't think so either, 250-300 maybe. Dad always wanted to split rounds whole, just didn't make sense to me to try and split a 3' diameter round with an 8" wedge, nor did it make sense to have that much weight up off the ground in that scenario.


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## Andyshine77 (Dec 31, 2017)

sb47 said:


> Live oak is kinda stringy with a grain that is kinda weaved together. Even strait grained live oak is weaved together and doesn't come apart very easy. Live oak that grows in the open, never has any strait grain wood. It's full of knots and branches that are close together and twist and lots of crooks. It doesn't pop apart like red oak. You have to do a full stroke on every split and the pry it apart. It's one of the best oaks for firewood and cooking. The old splitter has no problem getting through knotty post oak and red oak, She struggles with pecan a bit too. Bear in mind I split green wood, not dry. Log wood doesn't keep well in my area. It punks out fast if you don't get it busted up fairly quick.



Sounds similar to Rock Elm, I hate splitting the stuff, if you get the wrong piece you'll wind up with a big loose ball of wood lol. 

I mostly split green as well, at least in the passed, most everything now is dead Ash and some Hickory.

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## Andyshine77 (Dec 31, 2017)

Cody said:


> Wow! I really like that one, can see a few changes I'd make but otherwise spot on. My favorite thing about hydro splitters are all the scraps and small pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I agree, I split everything with the splitter setup vertically. I line the rounds up next to me, sit on one of the logs and split away.

Few weeks ago before I had minor surgery. This Elm filled the truck up with four loads this size.










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## Sandhill Crane (Dec 31, 2017)

sb47 said:


> Mine was so sharp, I cut myself several times just bumping into it. I had to knock the edge off a little just for safety reasons.


I blunt the top corner with a file. Have back handed it several times, or had wood shift/pivot and I've bump the top corner of the wedge. Now it just leaves a dent or scrape vs a messy cut.


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## Andyshine77 (Dec 31, 2017)

Sandhill Crane said:


> I blunt the top corner with a file. Have back handed it several times, or had wood shift/pivot and I've bump the top corner of the wedge. Now it just leaves a dent or scrape vs a messy cut.


Good gloves prevent cuts, but not the pinching effect. Which may be worse lol.

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## sb47 (Dec 31, 2017)

Andyshine77 said:


> Good gloves prevent cuts, but not the pinching effect. Which may be worse lol.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk


Gloves are for the ladies that don't want to break a nail. lol
I never liked wearing gloves. They can cause you as much injury as none at all.
I wear them out in a few days anyway.


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## Andyshine77 (Dec 31, 2017)

sb47 said:


> Gloves are for the ladies that don't want to break a nail, or get splinters, cuts, cold hands [emoji6]



I did the no gloves thing for a while, than I started wearing gloves and realized how silly I was. I get my leather gloves at Costco, in like packs of 5 or 10 can't remember. I hate the usless gloves with the velcro straps, they're uncomfortable and don't last but an hour, maybe less. 

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## Cody (Dec 31, 2017)

Andyshine77 said:


> I agree, I split everything with the splitter setup vertically. I line the rounds up next to me, sit on one of the logs and split away.
> 
> Few weeks ago before I had minor surgery. This Elm filled the truck up with four loads this size.
> 
> ...



That's some fine looking firewood, nice truck too.


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## Duffyfiveo (Jan 1, 2018)

sb47 said:


> I've used a Husky 22 ton splitter for 15 years now and I like that type of splitter. It's nice and slow and easy to control.
> However, I'm getting tired of noodling big rounds down to manageable sises. I would love to have a log lift on my next unit. Any recommendations? Make, model, size, price,
> My budget is around $1,500. to $2,000. I would like it to be in the 30 ton range.
> Thanks


I just bought a Yardmax 35 ton splitter. I got it online after a lot of research. I would highly recommend this splitter. $1499


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## WoodTick007 (Jan 1, 2018)

ValleyFirewood said:


> I don't think a block of oaks weighs that much! If so, a cord would weigh around 16,000lbs!


I used a log calculator. The calculator would not go down to 2' so i entered 3' got a weight of a 3' log at approx 1314lbs and divided 1314 by 

2 to arrive at approx 650lbs 3' is 36" and 36 ÷ 2 = 18 . My log or round is/was 18"x35".
View attachment 622486


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## carlsdad (Jan 1, 2018)

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## carlsdad (Jan 1, 2018)

This works for me. 


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## tomtrees58 (Jan 1, 2018)

tw5 way to go


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## WoodTick007 (Jan 1, 2018)

tomtrees58 said:


> tw5 way to go


Hillbilly5 moving on up


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## sb47 (Jan 2, 2018)




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## tomtrees58 (Jan 2, 2018)

a boat gas tank come on


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## Ryan'smilling (Jan 2, 2018)

sb47 said:


>




Looks interesting. No info on the pump size, unless I missed it. With a cylinder that size it could be pretty slow unless it's got like a 28 GPM pump. Also, it's got no log lift, and the wedge shape is very obtuse, although the change-aroundability is interesting. And they seem to be from Ireland. Any stateside dealers?


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## jrider (Jan 2, 2018)

carlsdad said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I do something similar with my JD with forks and it does work but is incredibly slow if you have a lot of it and are trying to produce 80 cords or more.


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## sb47 (Jan 2, 2018)

I'm headed to TS to look at the Countyline 40 ton unit. Taking my trailer and a wad of cash in case I like what I see.


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## kevin j (Jan 2, 2018)

Take a tape measure and stop watch. No data given. 
Even running at 3000 psi, max I would run any consumer product, 4 inch cylinder is about 18-19 tons. (20-22-25 is BS)

5 inch bore cylinder is only just under 30 tons. 

6 inch bore ID cylinder is needed for true 41 tons. 6 bore will be REALLY slow.

I think there is marketing magic here somewhere. Many of these advertise as calculated at 3500 psi, even though the components are rated or maxed adjustments at 2500 or 3000.

I had one salesman tell me one time ‘it is higher because our cylinders are so much more efficient’. Uh, F = P x A, and unless they discovered a way for the cylinders to be more than 100% efficient, he was full of it. 

Neat concept for conversion between moving wedge or stationary push through wedge.


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## Andyshine77 (Jan 2, 2018)

sb47 said:


> I'm headed to TS to look at the Countyline 40 ton unit. Taking my trailer and a wad of cash in case I like what I see.


I like the cycle time they list. Whether or not it's true is a different story.

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## sb47 (Jan 2, 2018)

Well I went ahead and pulled the trigger.






Here is why.
My curant 22 ton splitter is old and needs quite a bit of work to get it back up to like new performance. I'm not ready to spend 5 to 8 grand on a high production unit, at least not at this time, but I need a heaver unit then the one I have. Having two splitters on the yard should help. I can reduce the work load on the old unit and use the big one on the hard stuff. It also gives me a back up if one should go down for some reason.
After looking at lots of splitters of this type and researching specs. I desided to give the Countyline 40 ton a try.
Side by side comparison of the Countyline 28 ton 35 ton and the 40 ton unit was interesting.
The cylinders on all are all the same size 5'' however that's where the similarity's end. 
The 40 ton unit has beefed up everything. From a bigger beam, bigger motor, bigger pump, bigger hoses, bigger fittings, bigger oil tank, bigger tires. The 40 also came with a log craddle and a motor guard. The 40 also has a better more stable front jack stand.
Oh! lets not forget 9.5 sec cycle times vs. 14 sec on all the other units and a 10'' blade on the wedge.
Side by side the 40 is a much beefier machine.
From a video I saw (posted bellow) Countyline was or is owned by Speeco. I don't know if thats good or bad.

I didn't forget that I still would like a log lift at some point. This splitter is plenty big enough to support a log lift and I may put one on later.
I still like crane idea over a log lift but that can come later.
I realize you have to take manufactures specs with a grain of salt, but this is one heavy built machine.


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## Andyshine77 (Jan 2, 2018)

Looks like a nice splitter, epically for the money. 

If they all have the same cylinder the power is likely the same. The 40T does look much beefier, should last you for some time.

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## sb47 (Jan 2, 2018)

This thing is FAST. I just ran a few pieces and wow. Fast and powerful. It's almost too fast at full speed.
One thing I noticed right away is the grips on the push plate are almost worthless. Easy fix though.
I don't have time today to do an extended run. It's a lot more splitter then my 22 ton.


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## Ryan'smilling (Jan 2, 2018)

You won't think it's too fast for long.


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## tomtrees58 (Jan 2, 2018)




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## tomtrees58 (Jan 2, 2018)




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## sb47 (Jan 3, 2018)

I fixed the push plate this morning by welding some strips along the outer edge of the plate. 






Put on the hour meter and then I got to run about a half cord of knotty pecan and about a half cord of knotty live oak. I'm liking how fast and powerful this unit is. 





I like the see through return hose so I can monitor fluid conditions.






The vent hole in the dip stick is a very poor design. My old splitter had the same set up and I got water in the oil. This will have to be replaced with a better more weather proof vent cap.


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## sb47 (Jan 3, 2018)

I found some old brass fittings in an old bucket. It's not really a vent cap but it will keep the water out.


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## farmer steve (Jan 3, 2018)

sb47 said:


> I fixed the push plate this morning by welding some strips along the outer edge of the plate.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





sb47 said:


> I found some old brass fittings in an old bucket. It's not really a vent cap but it will keep the water out.


ya got me thinking about that vent plug and even though i keep my splitter covered i'm was looking at the vent/fill cap for a DHT splitter and need to find out if it will fit. reminds me of the breather cap on my old 54 chevy truck.
https://shop.dirtyhandtools.com/collections/tank-beam-parts/products/vent-cap


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## sb47 (Jan 3, 2018)

I was about to use PVC until I found these brass fittings in an old bucket. Brass looks better and is stronger too.


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## kevin j (Jan 4, 2018)

I would put an actual filtered breather when you can get one. Not just an open open vent. 

and I would change that clear vinyl suction hose to an actual hydraulic suction hose. With the wire spiral (not wire braid) reinforcement they are designed to prevent collapsing inward under suction. I’ve changed two or three of the clear vinyl ones on different splitters when they get hot they get soft and then later on start to collapse and cause restriction


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## sb47 (Jan 4, 2018)

kevin j said:


> I would put an actual filtered breather when you can get one. Not just an open open vent.
> 
> and I would change that clear vinyl suction hose to an actual hydraulic suction hose. With the wire spiral (not wire braid) reinforcement they are designed to prevent collapsing inward under suction. I’ve changed two or three of the clear vinyl ones on different splitters when they get hot they get soft and then later on start to collapse and cause restriction


I think it has a wire support already in it but I'll check and make sure. Thanks.
As for the vent, my old splitter is set up the same way only I used PVC instead of brass. It has never been a problem. However, I can probably put a stainless screen in the brass pipe to keep debris out.


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## Big_Eddy (Jan 4, 2018)

I'm with Kevin J. That's your suction line - not a return line. Suggest you buy a proper replacement for it now - they don't tend to survive long. Not robust enough for the application.
Unfortunately - no easy way to swap it without draining the hydraulic tank (tipping the splitter up on end is not considered easy)


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## Andyshine77 (Jan 4, 2018)

I changed the fluid in my 22T this past spring and it looked new, total waste of money IMHO, the fluid was in the splitter since 06 and the splitters is stored outside. My guess is moisture got in yours simply from cycling the cylinder, and maybe not getting it hot enough? not from water actually pouring in through the vent, I don't see how any significant amount of water could actually get in through that tiny hole. The vent was not the cause IMHO, and this is how most splitter vents are setup. I personally would be more worried with that homemade vent, a lot of crap could get in that big pipe. Keeping the fluid level up will also help keep moisture out.

Glad you're hiking the new splitter looks like a pretty solid buy.[emoji106]

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## GVS (Jan 4, 2018)

sb47 said:


> I fixed the push plate this morning by welding some strips along the outer edge of the plate.
> 
> 
> Mine didn't let water in but when the oil got hot and the splitter was tilted in the right direction,it vented oil heavily.I put a 3" nipple,with external threads both ends,drilled a diagonal vent hole toward the top of the new cap.No dipstick feature but no oil venting either.
> ...


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## sb47 (Jan 4, 2018)

Andyshine77 said:


> I changed the fluid in my 22T this past spring and it looked new, total waste of money IMHO, the fluid was in the splitter since 06 and the splitters is stored outside. My guess is moisture got in yours simply from cycling the cylinder, and maybe not getting it hot enough? not from water actually pouring in through the vent, I don't see how any significant amount of water could actually get in through that tiny hole. The vent was not the cause IMHO, and this is how most splitter vents are setup. I personally would be more worried with that homemade vent, a lot of crap could get in that big pipe. Keeping the fluid level up will also help keep moisture out.
> 
> Glad you're hiking the new splitter looks like a pretty solid buy.[emoji106]
> 
> Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk



No my old splitter had a lot of water in the oil. Not a little but a lot. It looked like a McDonald milkshake. Yes the hole is tiny, but that tiny hole can let in more water then the moisture in the air being exchanged every cycle. Besides, ever since I changed the vent on the old splitter, water or moisture has not been an issue. As for wasting your money on an unneeded oil change, I hate to say it but that's on you. You should have inspected the oil condition before you changed it. As long as the oil is clean with no moisture in it, It should last for ever.


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## kevin j (Jan 4, 2018)

you can change the pump or suction without draining the tank. put a shopvac on the tank vent port and pull a vacuum and then work fairly quickly I’ve done this many times on 500 gallon tanks and changing out big pumps and lose less than a gallon.


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## Andyshine77 (Jan 4, 2018)

sb47 said:


> No my old splitter had a lot of water in the oil. Not a little but a lot. It looked like a McDonald milkshake. Yes the hole is tiny, but that tiny hole can let in more water then the moisture in the air being exchanged every cycle. Besides, ever since I changed the vent on the old splitter, water or moisture has not been an issue. As for wasting your money on an unneeded oil change, I hate to say it but that's on you. You should have inspected the oil condition before you changed it. As long as the oil is clean with no moisture in it, It should last for ever.


I think maybe you took what I was trying to say the wrong way. I changed the oil even after inspecting it just because, but yeah it was probably in the end of waste of money I saw nothing in it. It was old so I figured why not. But yeah the vent probably isn't the source of the moisture IMHO, you can probably turn the hose on it and not get much or any water in, but doesn't take much moisture to turn the fluid milky, air bubbles in the fluid can look similar too. Keeping the fluid level up is a good way at keeping moisture down. 

Anyway have fun with the new tool/toy[emoji6] If I ever replace my 22T I'd be looking had at this model.

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## sb47 (Jan 4, 2018)

Big_Eddy said:


> I'm with Kevin J. That's your suction line - not a return line. Suggest you buy a proper replacement for it now - they don't tend to survive long. Not robust enough for the application.
> Unfortunately - no easy way to swap it without draining the hydraulic tank (tipping the splitter up on end is not considered easy)



I checked and it does have a wire insert on the suction hose. Thanks for the heads up.


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## sb47 (Jan 4, 2018)

3.5 hours on it now and it's still on the first tank of gas. I have only had to run it at half speed and it has no problem getting through tough wood that my old splitter would be struggling with. I'm really liking the taller wedge and it seems to be every bit as fast as advertised. Because it's more beefed up and heavy I can toss a round up on the deck and it is solid and doesn't move around at all.


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## WoodTick007 (Jan 4, 2018)

tomtrees58 said:


> a boat gas tank come on


That can be confusing for a person without a sharp eye. If you notice the fuel cell is attached to a log splitter thus making it a log splitter fuel tank.


sb47 said:


> 3.5 hours on it now and it's still on the first tank of gas. I have only had to run it at half speed and it has no problem getting through tough wood that my old splitter would be struggling with. I'm really liking the taller wedge and it seems to be every bit as fast as advertised. Because it's more beefed up and heavy I can toss a round up on the deck and it is solid and doesn't move around at all.


Gald to see/hear/read your new investment is working out and meeting or exceeding your expectations!
If u look at the hydraulic tank on my HB5 logsplitter you can see a silver vent on the corner. Do not look at the 6.6 gallon red logsplitter fuel cell as it is vented thru the cap. Those silver vents are $5-$10 and well worth the money.


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## sb47 (Jan 4, 2018)

Temps are in the low 30's and she starts right up on the first pull. First impressions are looking good. I love a new toy.


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## Andyshine77 (Jan 4, 2018)

sb47 said:


> Temps are in the low 30's and she starts right up on the first pull. First impressions are looking good. I love a new toy.


Lol you guys in the south, 30 isn't cold man it better start.[emoji6] They get a little stiff around 0 and you best be running 10W synthetic instead of 30 SAE.

Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk


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## sb47 (Jan 4, 2018)

Andyshine77 said:


> Lol you guys in the south, 30 isn't cold man it better start.[emoji6] They get a little stiff around 0 and you best be running 10W synthetic instead of 30 SAE.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk


lol.....You can keep your 0 degrees.


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## sb47 (Jan 4, 2018)

WoodTick007 said:


> That can be confusing for a person without a sharp eye. If you notice the fuel cell is attached to a log splitter thus making it a log splitter fuel tank.
> 
> Gald to see/hear/read your new investment is working out and meeting or exceeding your expectations!
> If u look at the hydraulic tank on my HB5 logsplitter you can see a silver vent on the corner. Do not look at the 6.6 gallon red logsplitter fuel cell as it is vented thru the cap. Those silver vents are $5-$10 and well worth the money.



Thats a common vent cap. All It needs to do is keep water and debris out and let air in and out. My home made brass vent does exactly that, and it was free.
It will work till I get a chance to get another one. Thanks for the idea.


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## sb47 (Jan 4, 2018)

I may upgrade the wheel hubs with some bearing buddy's for easy greasing. Don't want the bearings to end up like on the old splitter.


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## sb47 (Jan 6, 2018)

Within the first few min of operating my new splitter, it was very apparent that wood can easily slip off the push plate. And in fact it did a few times, once with quite a bit of force. I did a test with some scrap to see if it would keep the wood secure. Now that I know it will work, I replaced the temporary gussets with a solid piece welded 100%. The test pieces stuck out a little to much so I shortened it up a little bit. I wanted a slight ridge on the perimeter edge so this was my solution. It's a big improvement. Pieces don't slip off anymore.

Before:






Testing:





Final:


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## Cody (Jan 7, 2018)

Your solution looks much prettier than mine. 1/2" rebar in the shape of an X.


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## sb47 (Jan 9, 2018)

After the first 15 hours of operation, I'm liking it even more. It's amazing how a few sec per stroke advantage accumulates over a few hours of splitting.


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## sb47 (Jan 13, 2018)

A guy stopped in for some firewood and while talking with him, he mentioned that he was looking for a used spliter. I just happen to have a used splitter that I may let go, now that I have a new unit. I let him look it over and I started it up and cycled it a few times to show it works.
I didn't say anything to him, but man is my old splitter SLOW. After using my new splitter with 9.5 sec cycle times, my old one is ridiculously slow.
It's so slow I don't think I'll ever go back to using it. I think I'll just sell it and put that money on the new one.
I was at Lowes the other day and they had some DHT splitters out front. I looked at the DHT 35 ton unit and it looked like an entry level splitter compared to the Countyline 40 unit.
If you get a chance to see them side by side, you can clearly see the difference. 
If your in the market for a conventional splitter. You owe it to yourself to look at the Countyline 40 ton unit. I'm not disappointed with it at all.


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## sb47 (Jan 13, 2018)

As I suspected when I opened up the wheel hubs, the bearings had "minimal" grease on them. After correcting that issue, I fixed the bearings on the old splitter as well. As luck would have it, I had some bearings that I bought for another trailer and they didn't fit and wasn't worth the drive to return them. I had forgotten about them and found in a drawer. 
I love to find odd ball parts laying around that save me a parts run and money.


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## H-Ranch (Jan 13, 2018)

sb47 said:


> I love to find odd ball parts laying around that save me a parts run and money.


Every time I use something like that I make a point to tell my wife that I've been saving it for 15 years and even knew what box to find it in! She has wondered aloud about why I keep stuff...


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## sb47 (Jan 13, 2018)

H-Ranch said:


> Every time I use something like that I make a point to tell my wife that I've been saving it for 15 years and even knew what box to find it in! She has wondered aloud about why I keep stuff...



The challenge is finding what your looking for, when you need it. Sometimes I look for days for something, only having to go buy it cause I can't find it and it and it can't wait. Only to find the part the next day after I gave up and bought the part.

On the other side, I'll hold onto something for 20 years, then finely getting rid of it. Only to need it shortly after.

Case in point. The mod I did on the splitter, I had to buy the bar stock, cause I scrapped most of what I had been saving over the years.


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## muddstopper (Jan 14, 2018)

I keep scrap pieces of metal piled outside the door to my shop. Many times I need just a small piece for something, I throw all the scrap in a pile until My wife makes me haul it off, and then the next day I need a small piece and have to buy it. My metal supplier is a real arsh. You need 4 ft of channel, tube, ext, he charges for the whole piece and keeps the left overs. It actually pisses him off If I load the drop on my truck. I am paying for it, so why leave it for him to resale to the next guy. Of course, this makes my outside pile start growing all over again.


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## sundance (Jan 14, 2018)

I can see paying somewhat of a premium for a short piece.....but expecting you to leave it so he can sell again? You're correct, he's an arsh!


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## sb47 (Jan 14, 2018)

muddstopper said:


> I keep scrap pieces of metal piled outside the door to my shop. Many times I need just a small piece for something, I throw all the scrap in a pile until My wife makes me haul it off, and then the next day I need a small piece and have to buy it. My metal supplier is a real arsh. You need 4 ft of channel, tube, ext, he charges for the whole piece and keeps the left overs. It actually pisses him off If I load the drop on my truck. I am paying for it, so why leave it for him to resale to the next guy. Of course, this makes my outside pile start growing all over again.



If I paid for it, it's coming with me. 
That's like someone paying for a cord of wood, only to leave half of it behind.


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## Wolfe Ridge (Jan 15, 2018)

Thank you Ryan for the kind words! If you guys have any questions about my machines, please let me know. Thanks!!

Here is a short video that one of my customer's posted... Hope you like!!


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## Ryan'smilling (Jan 15, 2018)

Wolfe Ridge said:


> Thank you Ryan for the kind words! If you guys have any questions about my machines, please let me know. Thanks!!
> 
> Here is a short video that one of my customer's posted... Hope you like!!




Hey Chris, glad to see you on AS!! Welcome aboard my friend.


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## OnTheRoad (Feb 3, 2018)

Wolfe Ridge said:


> Thank you Ryan for the kind words! If you guys have any questions about my machines, please let me know. Thanks!!
> 
> Here is a short video that one of my customer's posted... Hope you like!!




That's not fair.


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## Weesa20 (Feb 4, 2018)

Do you deal directly with Countryline or TSC for customer support? What's the warranty?

W


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## sb47 (Mar 2, 2018)

Ok so I have 2 months on it and 40+ hours run time. So far I'm very happy with my new splitter. I've ran post oak, red oak, pecan, mesquite, live oak, ash through it and she's not struggled at all with anything I have thrown at it. I've run at least 10+ cords through it and I like it, a lot. I changed the oil at the 4 hr, 20 hr, and 40 hr, marks. Oil looked very good every time. Big thumbs up so far!


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## Marine5068 (Mar 7, 2018)

sb47 said:


> I think it has a wire support already in it but I'll check and make sure. Thanks.
> As for the vent, my old splitter is set up the same way only I used PVC instead of brass. It has never been a problem. However, I can probably put a stainless screen in the brass pipe to keep debris out.


I have little mud wasps around here that like to make nests in any little holes they can find. Found all my trailer hitch wire plugs filled up at times.


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## Hoodiegadoo (Mar 7, 2018)

I rented a tw-6 log splitter by Timberwolf and was very impressed. It’s about double what you’re looking to spend but it is extremely fast. And well worth the money. Like 2 guys with a conveyor minimum to keep it working at full capacity. 
http://www.timberwolfequip.com/tw-6-log-splitter/

Then my next step is going to be this one right here. Used to be made by tempest but woodmizer bought them out I guess. I think this design is brilliant! But it’s high. Like $13k high

https://woodmizer.com/Store/Shop/Log-Splitters/FS500-Log-Splitter


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## Hoodiegadoo (Mar 7, 2018)

Good grief I just got to the part of the thread where you said you’re doing 80+ cords a year. I’d already have that woodmizer and two conveyors for either side a LONG time ago if I were you. You’ll have your investment paid for half way through the season...

Not to mention it would take you 1 40 hour work week to produce that 80 cords with a Timberwolf vs 6 40 hour weeks with your current splitter...


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## rarefish383 (Mar 7, 2018)

I really like the Tempast when I first saw it. They also say not to run knots through the box blade. It would fit me perfect because I leave pretty much all big knots in the woods for bug habitat.


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## Hoodiegadoo (Mar 7, 2018)

rarefish383 said:


> I really like the Tempast when I first saw it. They also say not to run knots through the box blade. It would fit me perfect because I leave pretty much all big knots in the woods for bug habitat.



Yeah I called them and asked them about that when I was shopping around. The guy said that is the legal answer but it will handle knots and smaller crotches within reason. They apparently had some issue with warranty claims with what he described as people basically trying to run wood through it sideways...


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## jrider (Mar 7, 2018)

Hoodiegadoo said:


> I rented a tw-6 log splitter by Timberwolf and was very impressed. It’s about double what you’re looking to spend but it is extremely fast. And well worth the money. Like 2 guys with a conveyor minimum to keep it working at full capacity.
> http://www.timberwolfequip.com/tw-6-log-splitter/
> 
> Then my next step is going to be this one right here. Used to be made by tempest but woodmizer bought them out I guess. I think this design is brilliant! But it’s high. Like $13k high
> ...


I recently purchased a used tw6 and I am very happy with the speed, production, and power. Wish I had done it sooner.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 7, 2018)

sb47 said:


> A guy stopped in for some firewood and while talking with him, he mentioned that he was looking for a used spliter. I just happen to have a used splitter that I may let go, now that I have a new unit. I let him look it over and I started it up and cycled it a few times to show it works.
> I didn't say anything to him, but man is my old splitter SLOW. After using my new splitter with 9.5 sec cycle times, my old one is ridiculously slow.
> It's so slow I don't think I'll ever go back to using it. I think I'll just sell it and put that money on the new one.
> I was at Lowes the other day and they had some DHT splitters out front. I looked at the DHT 35 ton unit and it looked like an entry level splitter compared to the Countyline 40 unit.
> ...



9.5sec is S-L-O-W!

Mine has a 4.5 sec cycle and I find that borderline slow.


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## sb47 (Mar 7, 2018)

ValleyFirewood said:


> 9.5sec is S-L-O-W!
> 
> Mine has a 4.5 sec cycle and I find that borderline slow.



 There's a fine line between speed and safety.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 7, 2018)

Hoodiegadoo said:


> I rented a tw-6 log splitter by Timberwolf and was very impressed. It’s about double what you’re looking to spend but it is extremely fast. And well worth the money. Like 2 guys with a conveyor minimum to keep it working at full capacity.
> http://www.timberwolfequip.com/tw-6-log-splitter/
> 
> Then my next step is going to be this one right here. Used to be made by tempest but woodmizer bought them out I guess. I think this design is brilliant! But it’s high. Like $13k high
> ...



13.5k for a wood splitter. Maybe if it had a conveyor and was 1/2 the price.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 7, 2018)

sb47 said:


> There's a fine line between speed and safety.



It sounds quick, but it isnt.


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## Hoodiegadoo (Mar 7, 2018)

ValleyFirewood said:


> It sounds quick, but it isnt.



So stop being stingy and give us the goods. What has a 4.5 cycle time with conveyor for 5-6k that’s actually worth paying for?


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## OnTheRoad (Mar 17, 2018)

Hoodiegadoo said:


> I rented a tw-6 log splitter by Timberwolf and was very impressed. It’s about double what you’re looking to spend but it is extremely fast. And well worth the money. Like 2 guys with a conveyor minimum to keep it working at full capacity.
> http://www.timberwolfequip.com/tw-6-log-splitter/
> 
> Then my next step is going to be this one right here. Used to be made by tempest but woodmizer bought them out I guess. I think this design is brilliant! But it’s high. Like $13k high
> ...


That woodmizer is legit. Wonder how it would hold up to a dunderhead operator splitting elm crotches?


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## sb47 (Dec 26, 2018)

Well it's been a full year since I bought the Countyline 40 ton splitter from TS.
Man I really like this splitter. It has worked flawlessly and has split everything I could ever ask it to. The faster cycle times are great though I do run it at a lower RMP that does slow the cycle time a little bit, but it still splits great at a low RPM.
I have put 250 hours of run time according to the hour meter I put on it the day I bought it.
Here is a little pile of live oak I split the other day. I'm not sure exactly how many cords I have split with it but I have filled a 30 cord rack twice and another rack that holds 40 cords.
I like it so much, I may buy a seconed one for back up and to have two splitting areas.


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## Willy Firewood (Dec 26, 2018)

Wow, you have used that probably more than the average user would use it in a lifetime.

Considering how much wood you split, might it be more efficient and productive to search for a suitable firewood processor?

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!


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## sb47 (Dec 26, 2018)

Willy Firewood said:


> Wow, you have used that probably more than the average user would use it in a lifetime.
> 
> Considering how much wood you split, might it be more efficient and productive to search for a suitable firewood processor?
> 
> Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!




I am considering going with a Eastonmade production splitter to increase production on bulk firewood.


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## tomtrees58 (Dec 26, 2018)

You guys got a dig into your pockets and get a Timberwolf about 7000 $8000 it’s the only way to get it done


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## sirbuildalot (Dec 26, 2018)

tomtrees58 said:


> You guys got a dig into your pockets and get a Timberwolf about 7000 $8000 it’s the only way to get it done




Which model would that be? I know back in 2010ish the TW5's with options included was in the $7,500-$8,000 range. Now 8-9 years later I would venture to guess its closer to $9,000 with a TW6 likely being $10,000-$11,000.

I think you'd get more for your money by going with the Eastonmade.

Or you could get a Supersplit SE and save 4-5 grand


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## sb47 (Dec 26, 2018)

tomtrees58 said:


> You guys got a dig into your pockets and get a Timberwolf about 7000 $8000 it’s the only way to get it done



I'm not a big fan of the timberwolf line of splitters. I don't like any of the slip on 4 way designs timberwolf uses. I like esatonmade better because the wedges are specifically designed multi wedge systems that look like they will hold up. Every slip on wedge design splitter seems to be limited and many have broken there splitter trying to use a wedge design that is clearly under designed for the task.


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## Ryan'smilling (Dec 26, 2018)

tomtrees58 said:


> You guys got a dig into your pockets and get a Timberwolf about 7000 $8000 it’s the only way to get it done



I agree, though i read timberwolf in that sentence like band-aid or Scotch tape, in that timberwolf is one of several brands that make a similar product; there's pros and cons to each, but that TYPE of splitter is what is being recommended. 

Personally I can't imagine running a gas powered wedge-on-ram style splitter for 250 hours a year, but everyone's different. For me, that kind of production would absolutely mandate a wedge-on-beam with a 4-way. I run a Wolfe ridge, which I'm very happy with. It'll do a cord an hour no problem, depending on what I'm working with and how small I'm splitting stuff. I don't have a log lift or a hydraulic wedge adjustment, but I've got less into my splitter AND tractor than a tw-6 costs. Probably in the tw-5 range, and mine has a 36" ram with an auto cycle valve, a 24" splitter with a regular valve would have been even cheaper. I'm a tractor guy, so going with a 3-point made sense to me, but everyone's got different needs.


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## GVS (Dec 27, 2018)

tomtrees58 said:


> You guys got a dig into your pockets and get a Timberwolf about 7000 $8000 it’s the only way to get it done



The ONLY way to get it done?I don't think so.


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