# Alaskan mill rails



## ulyssesjones (Aug 19, 2008)

I am thinking of buying an Alaskan mill. Is it worth buying the rails as well? I have seen guys who have made their own rails out of old aluminum ladders etc. What would you all suggest? 

Thanks,
Jones


----------



## oldsaw (Aug 19, 2008)

I'm cheap. I've got the original 2x8 that I bought for my first logs. A 2x10 would be better, but they were all twisted up at the lumber yard that day. I've got an aluminum ladder section that I need to rig up one day, just haven't had time to do so. Opens up a few more opportunities.

Mark


----------



## peterrum (Aug 19, 2008)

I sometimes prefer to make my own stuff and this would be the case with the rail system. There are lots of examples on this site. I'm using the Mallof system presently, have it all together but wont be able to actually test it until the fall. Good luck


----------



## Backwood (Aug 20, 2008)

I wouldnt buy them either, to easy to make. I use either a 2x10 or a ladder.

Peterrum, did you rig it up so you can stand 10' from the saw and crank the winch ?


----------



## Nikko (Aug 20, 2008)

Ladder works well for me.

Nikko


----------



## hpontap (Aug 20, 2008)

Be careful Nikko, parts for 2100 are mostly N.L.A. you mess it up, time for a new saw, unless you can find them aftermarket! Just a heads up.


----------



## weisyboy (Aug 20, 2008)

i got 2 engths of 2 x 4 with a peice of 4 x 1 screwed accross either end. keepng the rails 1' appart.

it just sits down on the log and i dont even need to screw it in place.


----------



## BobL (Aug 20, 2008)

Here's mine. 2 x 20 ft lengths of heavy duty unistrut. They are cut in half and joined using althread rod and angle iron, to accommodate different width trees.

The reason I cut then in half is so I can dismantle them and carry them in my van. I also use just 2 x 10 ft lengths for shorter logs.


----------



## excess650 (Aug 20, 2008)

I chose to go the cheaper route myself. I had some 2" aluminum angle in the garage, so cut it to 18" width and then drilled two rows of holes in one side to mount to the log, and then a couple more holes in the ends so as to be able to attach 2x4s. I bought a pair of 10' 2x4s, as straight as I could find, and used them. Drywall or deck screws mount the angle to the log and 2x4s, and a couple of short sections of 2x3 to fit between the 2x4s so as to keep the 2x4s from sagging and vibrating, and used longer deck screws there. The 2x3 cross braces are mounted to the 2x4s, but in contact with the log. This still requires a level for setup from end to end, and a square if you're making cants. It appears that unlike Bob, I only use the rails for the top cut. The initial cut becomes the guide for the next cut, and unless you're making live edge boards, you'll need to turn the log 90* to make a squaring cut.


----------



## peterrum (Aug 20, 2008)

Backwood said:


> I wouldnt buy them either, to easy to make. I use either a 2x10 or a ladder.
> 
> Peterrum, did you rig it up so you can stand 10' from the saw and crank the winch ?



Not yet, that would be part two of the rail system and havent got that far yet but I am sure considering it. I have to cut some wood first to see how my 2x12 rail will work but I'm stuck in W. Africa at the moment so I am a few thousand miles away from my saw.


----------



## hazard (Aug 20, 2008)

Here is what I did. It takes a few minutes to set up. I did the little piece as an example.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=73696

Chris


----------



## Nikko (Aug 20, 2008)

hpontap said:


> Be careful Nikko, parts for 2100 are mostly N.L.A. you mess it up, time for a new saw, unless you can find them aftermarket! Just a heads up.



Thanks for the heads-up!

I just resurrected this one from a previous life as a hard-used fallers saw. Ignition, clutch, flywheel/key, starter, hoses,etc. etc. etc. is all new. Some of the parts were a bit tricky to find, but they were all out there. Sure is a good workhorse - well worth the time and $$ I put into it.

Nikko


----------



## ulyssesjones (Aug 20, 2008)

*Saw?*

Thanks for all the replies. I guess I will just make my own. With that said, do I dare ask for recommendations on a saw? I currently use a Stihl 290 for felling and bucking 5-8 cord a year. I don't plan on using this saw for milling as it is too small. I won't be milling anything too big. 24 - 30 inch max. I like Stihl and would like to stay with them. Is there any chance I could get a saw for under $500? Or is that just a dream?

Thanks,
Jones


----------



## hazard (Aug 20, 2008)

I think it is a dream unless you can get a 066 for $500. I used to use my stihl 044 with the 36" bar on the mill and it was very slow going. Now I have the 066 and it handles the 30' stuff but it takes awhile

Chris


----------



## excess650 (Aug 21, 2008)

ulyssesjones said:


> Thanks for all the replies. I guess I will just make my own. With that said, do I dare ask for recommendations on a saw? I currently use a Stihl 290 for felling and bucking 5-8 cord a year. I don't plan on using this saw for milling as it is too small. I won't be milling anything too big. 24 - 30 inch max. I like Stihl and would like to stay with them. Is there any chance I could get a saw for under $500? Or is that just a dream?
> 
> Thanks,
> Jones



If you use the 70% of log diameter as the possible size of a square cant, and a 30" log, you'll end up with a 21" cant. You'll need a big saw to cut that, and particularly if its hardwood. The 066/660 suggestion is a good one. Used, running 066s seem to be going for $500+ on Ebay. They've been made since the early 90s, so are somewhat plentiful, and more so than Husqvarna 394/395 or the Jonsered equivalent. Parts for the 066/660 are easier to find as well.


----------



## Zodiac45 (Aug 21, 2008)

I'm also a piece of an aluminum ladder guy. Just make the end pieces out of wood or angle and you're good too go.


----------



## Nikko (Aug 21, 2008)

ulyssesjones said:


> Thanks for all the replies. I guess I will just make my own. With that said, do I dare ask for recommendations on a saw? I currently use a Stihl 290 for felling and bucking 5-8 cord a year. I don't plan on using this saw for milling as it is too small. I won't be milling anything too big. 24 - 30 inch max. I like Stihl and would like to stay with them. Is there any chance I could get a saw for under $500? Or is that just a dream?
> 
> Thanks,
> Jones



I'm into my 2100 for about $600, and that includes the (37") bar (new tip) and three loops of chain, new clutch, new ignition, Elasto-start starter, Walkerized muffler, etc. etc. etc... Bought it as a running wreck ($250) and put it back together... 48" Granberg mill (almost new) ran another $100, 20' ladder was $20...

Nikko


----------



## dustytools (Aug 21, 2008)

The most important thing to remember when looking for a good used big milling saw at a reasonable price is to be patient. I ended up finding an 084 and ended up with $565 in it delivered to my house. The deals are out there and you will eventually run into one of them. Good luck with the rails and saw.


----------



## rfalk (Aug 21, 2008)

*Using ladders*

I use an aluminum ladder and it works well. I usually use 4 fender washers and drywall screws to secure the edge of the ladder to the log (assuming the log is big enough for the ladder rails to contact wood). If the log is smaller, I just screw a 1" board across the log at each end that is slightly longer than the width of the ladder and then use the fender washers and screws to secure the ladder to the boards.....quick, cheap, easy and works good for most situations. I would probably go with a steadier system if I was cutting long beams.


----------



## BlueRider (Aug 23, 2008)

ulyssesjones said:


> Thanks for all the replies. I guess I will just make my own. With that said, do I dare ask for recommendations on a saw? I currently use a Stihl 290 for felling and bucking 5-8 cord a year. I don't plan on using this saw for milling as it is too small. I won't be milling anything too big. 24 - 30 inch max. I like Stihl and would like to stay with them. Is there any chance I could get a saw for under $500? Or is that just a dream?
> 
> Thanks,
> Jones




A little over a year ago I picked up an 051 in pristine condition for $300. This thing had very few scratches in the paint, even on the bar and it is all original. In my opinion this is one of the most over looked milling saws out there. It is on a par with an 066 in displacement but has more torque. there are tons of parts available both vintage and new as most of the 075/076 parts will fit it and the ts550 is based on it and parts are still available for it from stihl. For my money the 051 has the most awsome sound with a stock muffler of any Stihl saw- reminds me of my old 250R. I pul 42" of 404 simi skip with my 051 and it excells in 24" wood and cuts 30" just fine. It will cut 36" but it will work the saw a bit.


----------



## smitty12 (Aug 26, 2008)

*rails*

I bought them and glad I did. Yes it easy to make a replacement but the rails have two main advantages that I like. 

1. very light.
2. very fast to get on the wood

so you spend less time rigging and more time cutting.


----------

