# MS362 for milling



## TWeatherford (Apr 7, 2015)

I'm thinking of using my MS362 to do some milling. I do not yet own a milling attachment, I would most likely go with a panthermill II. I have a project coming up where I only need about 12 12' 2x4s (chicken coop), and I absolutely hate buying lumber here (northern Arizona) due to high price and extreme low quality. Later on I would love to build some simple shelves for the garage and a solid workbench (just a 4x4x8 here is $35).

I bought my 362 two years ago brand new... my first chainsaw (have used my Dad's and others extensively in the past). I do not have any desire to burn it up. It is not in the budget now or anytime in the forseeable future to buy a larger saw for milling, even a few hundred for an older one needing work. I have a 20" bar for my 362, which is all I'll run at this altitude (I'm at 7000'). No muff mod yet but I'm going to do that after I'm done complaining to the dealer about the stock air filter letting dust through. So I'll be limited to 14" right out of the gate with ~6" taken up by the alaskan style mill, with my 20" bar. I will only mill pine, and green (<1 year old) pine at that. I would run it rich, and with an oil heavy mix (maybe 32:1), with synthetic oil as well. Maybe full skip chain or whatever my research leads me to believe would be best. Obviously, I'd take it slow, not force it, give the saw time to cool in between and during cuts if necessary.

Am I crazy? Will I burn it up in 10 tanks? Or can it handle it with the above mentioned limitations (no hardwood, 14" max cut, treating it well)? I bought a new saw to not have to deal with something someone else beat on, so I don't really want to damage it. At the same time, looking at new piston and cylinders, even the higher quality ones, they aren't that expensive and I am not afraid to rebuild - unless I could somehow damage the bottom end or other expensive parts milling (I figure the piston would be the first to go). Thanks in advance for any advice.


----------



## pond hopper (Apr 7, 2015)

I tried my ms390 once just for kicks. Didn't have the grunt needed for the mill. I know its 60cc+but might b frustratingon a mill. A 440 works great for anything in the small to mid size wood. But once u have the bug and find bigger trees you'll be looking for a 90 cc saw


----------



## Mad Professor (Apr 9, 2015)

If you plan on cutting 2 X 4s from small trees might be OK. Otherwise it will beat up that firewood saw quick.

As mentioned you want 90cc+


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Apr 11, 2015)

I milled some small eastern red cedar with my ported 75cc saw and it was good enough, by small I mean 12" diameter.


----------



## rarefish383 (Apr 16, 2015)

I milled these 6X6 pine beams with my Farm Boss 290. Sharp chain and I didn't dog it and it did fine. If I want 6X6's from little Pine logs I'd use it again even though I have a new 660 I bought just for milling, Joe.


----------



## cupar (Apr 16, 2015)

You won't break the saw, might wear a part or two, I wouldn't but I have large access to very cheap lumber. Also access to bigger saws then even my 80cc.


----------



## TWeatherford (Apr 18, 2015)

Thank you all for the input. I'll mull it over. I'm thinking I'd rather design my own mill anyway so it'll be a while. And maybe I'll just wait to mill until I can get a bigger saw, maybe something old that needs work.


----------



## cedarheaven (Apr 21, 2015)

I milled with the 362 for a couple of years with the only modification being a 9 tooth 3/8 sprocket. Worked just fine!


----------



## mad murdock (Apr 21, 2015)

It will do ok. Especially if you set it up to mill with low profile narrow kerf chain. I use stihl's 63PMX "picco" chain on my 372XPW and have milled about 10,000 bd ft with it.


----------

