# Oak tree insect invasion



## Sawdust7 (Apr 28, 2012)

Haven't posted in quite awhile and of course I have a crisis. It's with my big Oak shade tree and I am concerned if I don't find a solution, I am going to lose it. Some type of insect has more or less invaded it and is covering the leaves with an oily/sticky residue and seems to be laying larvae on them. The leaves are curling up around them. I am in Humble, Texas and of course we had the drought in which I imported three truck loads of hay from all over and hope I didn't import these critters because I have never seen anything like it before. I have Chinese Tallows all over the place and they are not affected. Haven't checked the oaks out in the back pastures yet but will do it tomorrow. I sprayed the base of the tree with some of my coddled Diazinon up as high as the sprayer would reach (about 9ft.). Also sprayed the surrounding ground and grass. These things are blowing with the wind and have gotten all over the porch and concrete steps leaving their oily spots all over. I think they are originating up the base of the tree since I saw them climbing the base but I could be wrong. Haven't seen them fly yet, only crawl around on the porch railing and tree base. I hope somebody here can ID these critters and know what I need to do to eradicate them. Thanks for taking the time to read this novel, Frank in Humble


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## Jace (Apr 29, 2012)

Im on a iphone with small photos, but I thinj your "invasion" is white aphids.(ateast the last 2 photos look that way to me, not sure tho.)

Aphids—How to Control Aphids


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## Ed Roland (Apr 29, 2012)

I see aphid. I do not see oak. :msp_mellow:


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## sweetjetskier (Apr 29, 2012)

Lots of aphids you have there, but that is not an Oak, at least not what we have in the northeast.


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## Sawdust7 (Apr 29, 2012)

Thank you for all the quick replys. That "whatever" tree is at least 50ft tall and I am thinking that it has to be treated at the leaves. If so then I will have to make some modifications to my boom sprayer so I can shoot a stream as high as I can to reach as close to the top as possible. Am I correct in assuming that if I don't eliminate them the tree will die or if I don't look at them anymore :msp_sleep: maybe they will just go away? Thanks again for the ID and I ain't tellin' the Waf it ain't an Oak tree, she still thinks I'm a smart feller after all these years. :msp_cool:


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## dingeryote (Apr 29, 2012)

Sawdust,

Ya gotta have an agricultural supply shop nearby.

Head over and tell them you are looking for Generic Provado. "Pasada" is the name we get here.
Active ingedient is Imadaclorpid. Should cost about 90 bucks a gallon.

While there, snag a jug of spreader/sticker/surficant and follow the label as an adjuvant with the Imadaclorpid.

Follow the label and hammer the little bastards. 

The stuff goes systemic from foliar contact, and will kill anything chewing on the tree.
It also has pretty good knockdown on initial spray, so those you can reach will get murdered, as well as any in the near future.
The spreader/sticker helps the imadaclorpid get into the leaves and stay on despite rain..to a point.

Bonide has a RUP root drench but it will take several weeks to work and I'm not sure if Bonide is avail in Texas.
Bonide

I'm not sure what kind of tree that is...darn sure dosn't look like our Oaks.
Whatever it is and whatever those bugs are, Imadaclorpid will ruin thier day.
Just follow the label!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## Sagetown (Apr 29, 2012)

The tree is being hammered with a virus from the aphid infestation.
Aphids succomb to a weak solution of mineral oil, cheap dish soap, or murphys soap, and water. Sprayed once a week. Too strong a solution may burn the leaves in direct sunlight.


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## Sawdust7 (Apr 30, 2012)

Had to dig deep to find my private applicators license. It sounds like I'm gonna need it to get what I need to kill these little suckers. I haven't needed it since I haven't done any spraying in a few years. The tractor w/loader I had set up for the boom, decided to crater on me and didn't get it going again for quite awhile. It expires this September and not sure if I will re-apply. I like the Bonide idea since it is root uptake. I don't know if I can get far enough up the tree to treat the leaves (foliar right?) Sagetown, you said that "Aphids succomb to a weak solution of mineral oil, cheap dish soap, or murphys soap, and water". Do you mean mineral oil "with" soap as a surfactant or use just mineral oil or just dish soap or murphys soap? I have tons of Sur-fac out in the barn that I can use. I plan on mixing in my 55 gal tank but don't know how much to mix of your solution Sagetown. Any suggestions? Most of my experience in ag spraying is in herbicides to maintain my pastures and hay crops and I am getting rusty on that. I'll check on the bonide and if not available, I'll try the soap first then go from there. I'll post a pic of the tree to give ya'll an idea of how tall it is. You can see the old farmhouse roof in the lower portion. It's a fine shade tree even if ya'll popped my oak tree bubble LOL. 

My wannabe oak:
View attachment 236365


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## Sagetown (Apr 30, 2012)

At least 2/3rds water. But for starters try 8 gal mineral oil; 4/10ths gal of soap; and top it off with water to fill the 55gal drum.


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## Sawdust7 (Apr 30, 2012)

Thanks Sagetown. I figure this would be my most economic way of doing it since that tree is so big and I think it will take every bit of 55 gals to cover the thing good. I've been wanting an excuse to buy a pressure washer and I think I can get on up there with one. Now I gotta locate a mineral oil supply down here. If that doesn't work then I will try dingerote's method but with some reservation because of the house proximity.


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## Ed Roland (Apr 30, 2012)

Sawdust7, i reckon you got you a nasty case o the whooly aphid on yo ash. :msp_scared:

Prociphilus fraxinifolii populations can be knocked back with a as little as a hard spray from a high pressure knozzle. Jet these suckers (literally) off the leaf and they have no internal navigation or musculature to get back.
Look into soaps next and then oils if you want to use the least toxic chemicals to achieve control. Something to consider is that all three of the above options disrupt/kill every arthropod on the tree. If you want systemic control look @ an imidacloprid drench. Saving most of the arthropods while putting bees @ risk. No real control this season with that method but, perhaps, 2 years control going forward after AI builds in tissues. 

Quite a bit to weight when performing chemical remediation.

Either way, good on you for the proactive care.


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## Jace (Apr 30, 2012)

Or....purchase a couple hundred hungry lady bugs, set back and watch the slaughter. 
(Of course...ya may have to clip their wings )

ladybird feed on aphid.mpg - YouTube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmASv1yQW-w&feature=fvwrel


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## dingeryote (Apr 30, 2012)

Sawdust,

Imadaclorpid goes systemic througout the tree from foliar application. So even if you can only reach the bottom 1/2 of the trees foliage, you will get a good effect overall. Then, just as a preventative long term you can use the imdaclorpid as a root drench.
The stuff is one of the new Reduced risk insecticides and is about as risky for Mammals as carbaryl(Sevin).
http://www.cdms.net/LDat/ld77F015.pdf

If you have any Malthion around, it will work short term but it also knocks down the Aphid predators and when they come back, they come back HARD..so if you get really cranky and choose the nuclear option, be ready to hit them again.


Dish soap/detergent works because the little bastards have an oily film for a "Skin", and once stripped off, bacteria and other environmental gunk kills them. You got a Pressure washer? LOL!! Sounds goofy, but plain old simple green/purple power etc. and the pressure washer will ruin thier day, but the ones you miss will multiply within a couple weeks and be back unless you innoculate with a systemic.

If you go that route, do it at night though...dadgum neighbors see you pressure washing a tree, they will think your cheese slid off your cracker completely.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## Sagetown (May 1, 2012)

You're welcome sawdust: It's an old time remedy. The soap allows the mineral oil to penetrate and break down the insects soft bodies. A weaker solution for corn ear worms is sprayed on the corn tassels as soon as they appear, killing the larvae trying to enter. Also used on Aphid infested tomato plants by spraying the underside of the leaves where they hide using an old WINDEX spray bottle with the solution.


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## ATH (May 1, 2012)

1) Imidacloprid will be taken into the tree for systemic control even if applied as a soil drench at the base of the tree. If you are aiming for systemic control, no need to go higher than that...

2) If you plan to help this tree in the long-term, you better eat your tree ID crow now. Emerald Ash Borer is probably not too many years away, and you'll have to admit your mistake at some point if you are going to help treat it for that.


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## Sawdust7 (May 1, 2012)

OK dingerote,"If you go that route, do it at night though...dadgum neighbors see you pressure washing a tree, they will think your cheese slid off your cracker completely" That one put me on the floor gasping for air after visualizing a nosy neighbor staring with their mouth hanging open in disbelief. Fortunately, I don't have any close enough to even see me pee off the front porch.
I called my local supplier today, Crop Protection Services (formerly United Agri Products) They now focus on industrial herbicides. The guy told me that the closest thing they have to mineral oil is what they call MSO (mentholated seed oil)so I guess I need to do some more searching for a supply around here plus I'm convinced on the systemic treatment. 
While talking to the rep, he asked me if I earned any credits on my license and I told him I had forgotten all about earning credits in order to renew my license to avoid re-taking the test. Time to go back to school. An eight hour class earns you five credits which is the requirement to not have to re-test. 
You guys are the greatest and I'm feeling real guilty for not coming around for so long. Time to find a source on this stuff and I'll update. 
"I may not know what I'm doing, but I'm an expert at it!" :msp_confused:


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## Sagetown (May 1, 2012)

If you're trying to find 5gal or 10gal containers of mineral oil, try a paint store, or auto paint supplier. I know Wal-Mart sells it by the 1 gallon containers in their paint isles, but that could be costly.


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## Sawdust7 (May 1, 2012)

I just looked at Home Depot and Wally World online and their description is "Mineral Spirit". Are they one in the same? You'd think I would know since I'm a wood butcher (carpenter) by trade. Out at the Big Airport, Bush IAH we don't really use either one so I'm clueless. But then we don't do the painting either. That's the paint shop dept. "Not my yob"


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## Sagetown (May 1, 2012)

Sawdust7 said:


> I just looked at Home Depot and Wally World online and their description is "Mineral Spirit". Are they one in the same? You'd think I would know since I'm a wood butcher (carpenter) by trade. Out at the Big Airport, Bush IAH we don't really use either one so I'm clueless. But then we don't do the painting either. That's the paint shop dept. "Not my yob"



No. After you mentioned mineral spirits, it joggled my memory. Mineral Spirits may have a small amount of oil mixed in it, but it's not exactly the same. Kind of a cheaper way around the real stuff. I went ahead and got it because a quart of Mineral Oil was outrageous. I'll check mine out tomorrow and see if it's safe to use.


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## Ed Roland (May 1, 2012)

Ed Roland said:


> Sawdust7, i reckon you got you a nasty case o the whooly aphid on yo ash. :msp_scared:
> 
> Prociphilus fraxinifolii populations can be knocked back with a as little as a hard spray from a high pressure knozzle. Jet these suckers (literally) off the leaf and they have no internal navigation or musculature to get back.
> Look into soaps next and then oils if you want to use the least toxic chemicals to achieve control. Something to consider is that all three of the above options disrupt/kill every arthropod on the tree. If you want systemic control look @ an imidacloprid drench. Saving most of the arthropods while putting bees @ risk. No real control this season with that method but, perhaps, 2 years control going forward after AI builds in tissues.
> ...



Sawdust7, you could call the nearest IPM/PHC certified arborist to come out and drench this Fraxinus with imidacloprid and have them apply oil to knock back current populations for under $200. Maybe well under. 

That would free up more time to picnic with the wife under the shade of her old "oak". :rolleyes2:


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## dingeryote (May 1, 2012)

Sawdust, ya know...I never hit those stupid 2 and 4 point meetings/classes either.

The College boys seem to think they should all be held at 5PM right in the midst of our silly season, and expect us to drive 30 miles each way and pay 10 bucks for the two hot dogs and Salmonela salad....just to hear the same thing each time. "Scout the field for XYZ"....WTF do they think we are doing? Spraying for the thrill of it at 60 bucks an acre? ROFL! 

I'll hit the 8 hour class in the middle of winter and get it over with. You ain't alone..the dorks never credit me with the points when I did hit meetings anyhow.

Not sure about the mineral oil. Did your ag supplier have parrafinic oil as a replacement?
The soap works without the oil, so don't delay on knocking the population down while ya can. Dang things go parabolic at a certain point.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## Sagetown (May 1, 2012)

Okay, here's the deal about Mineral Oil. Baby Oil is Mineral Oil. It's food safe for humans. Pharmacys carry both baby oil and mineral oil. The cheapest mineral oil may be found at your local Animal Veternarian. It's animal safe, but not recommended for humans, because it's not refined. Cost is about $11 per gallon. So if I were to use it, I'd begin with a very weak solution, and see if it works.

Sorry, but my iPhone thinks it knows what I'm trying to say and says something entirely different.


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## Sawdust7 (May 2, 2012)

I called the extension office today to inquire about CEUs and got in a class for tomorrow night over in the next county. "Farm Planning" of all courses. Been doing this for 25 years but it's never too late to learn something new. Heck, I may even learn that I've been doing it wrong all these years. This one is 20 bucks and a meal. Oh well, she said there are no 8 hour classes between now and october, just one 5 hour in October. I'll stay clear of the salad for sure. The agent told me I have to have 15 credits for renewal and that there are plenty of classes before October for me to get them. I got home today and sprayed up about twenty feet on the tree with the little Ortho homeowner type dial-a-spray set at 2oz per gallon of dish soap. I think I nailed the little critters and will post back Friday with, hopefully, a good update. If it doesn't work I will at least have some very clean bugs and a tree with dish pan leaves. I didn't use Palmolive since it's not a Palm tree. First time I ever got in the shower pre-soaped lol. I am pondering the "call a pro" idea, sounds tempting and yes, I can get on with other things and not be tied up treating my "oak" tree that just found out it's an ash. LOL


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## Sawdust7 (May 5, 2012)

dingerote: " . . . and expect us to drive 30 miles each way and pay 10 bucks for the two hot dogs and Salmonela salad...." How about 35 miles, 20 bucks, no hot dogs but de-hydrated bread sandwiches and no sugar for the tea? 

Anyway here's where I'm at, Set my sprayer up today and going to try early in the morning with hopes the wind will be low. Going to try 42ozs of dish soap in 35gal of water for starters??? I hope it works because the leaves are begining to fall. It looks like I made progress with the dial-a-spray thingy for as high up as it would reach but my 40psi spray pump only reaches about ten feet higher. I may be getting up 30ft. I'll add some sur-fac just to give the soap more sticking power. I haven't found a root drench in very large jugs but gonna keep looking. The Ag class went good but didn't cover the areas I need like broadcast herbicides and sellective herbicides. It was covering conservation and pond maintenance. And oh don't let me forget the wonderful "meal". I came home starving. Needed a hammer to soften the bread and pretend there was sugar in the tea. Lettuce more resembled spinach. Oh well.


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## Sagetown (May 5, 2012)

The soap water will do damage to them for sure. Warm soapy water may work even better. Maybe you could fill the container and let it set over night to raise the temp.


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## Sawdust7 (May 5, 2012)

I put about 25 gals in to stir the soap in but it was pretty late in the evening and my well water is pretty darn cold. Got a block heater for the tractors but ya have to have metal to attach it to so scratch that. I'm going to shoot from under the tree so I can better get the bottom sides of the leaves where the sorry little critters hide. If I have any left then I will hit the tops from outside the drip line.


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## dingeryote (May 5, 2012)

Sawdust7 said:


> I put about 25 gals in to stir the soap in but it was pretty late in the evening and my well water is pretty darn cold. Got a block heater for the tractors but ya have to have metal to attach it to so scratch that. I'm going to shoot from under the tree so I can better get the bottom sides of the leaves where the sorry little critters hide. If I have any left then I will hit the tops from outside the drip line.



Don't worry about warming it up. Just hit 'em with the soap and it breaks down the oily film that protects them from the environment.

The Organic Hippies use a variation that works the same way.
Guidelines for Insecticidal Soap

NUKE EM!!!!!!!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## Sawdust7 (May 5, 2012)

Well I date back to the hippie era so I should be quite comfortable with organic soap. Heck, I just recently learned that my cows could make organic milk and now the cows themselves are organic. In the way back days I thought organic was dirt.


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## Sawdust7 (May 7, 2012)

Finally found the Bonide tree and shrub with 1.47% Imidacloprid and hope it is going to do the trick. Label calls for1oz. per gallon per inch in circumference. 32 +32 don't quite make 76 but if I use the Jethro Bodine calculations, aught times aught, it could come out to 76. It'll have to do anyway.

Sprayed up about half the height of the tree yesterday plus the China Berry and Pear trees close to it. I do believe I've knocked them back enough to give the root drench time to take effect. Most of the leaves that I sprayed the first time have brown spots so I may have over done on the amount of soap. A lot of them have fallen off too. Oh well. Told the Waf that Joy tastes better than Dawn and she sure gave me that peculiar stare.
:msp_angry: + :msp_confused: =


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## dingeryote (May 7, 2012)

Sawdust7 said:


> Finally found the Bonide tree and shrub with 1.47% Imidacloprid and hope it is going to do the trick. Label calls for1oz. per gallon per inch in circumference. 32 +32 don't quite make 76 but if I use the Jethro Bodine calculations, aught times aught, it could come out to 76. It'll have to do anyway.
> 
> Sprayed up about half the height of the tree yesterday plus the China Berry and Pear trees close to it. I do believe I've knocked them back enough to give the root drench time to take effect. Most of the leaves that I sprayed the first time have brown spots so I may have over done on the amount of soap. A lot of them have fallen off too. Oh well. Told the Waf that Joy tastes better than Dawn and she sure gave me that peculiar stare.
> :msp_angry: + :msp_confused: =




Good show!! LOL!!

For a short time anyhow, the imadaclorpid will go systemic from the foliar contact, so the little darlings will be killing themselves when they take a bite out of the tree. More will die over the next couple days, and further up from where you could reach with the sprayer.

If you set up the sprinker to spray the drip line for a couple days, you'll get some uptake once the imadaclorpid gets into the root zone as well.
How much I dunno. 

Those brown spots are more likely from the infestation than from dish soap. I wouldn't worry about it.

Never let the bugs win!!:msp_thumbsup:

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## Sawdust7 (May 7, 2012)

Well, radar shows a whole mess of rain comung this way so I may have to wait a day if the ground gets too saturated. Got the tank cleaned and ready to fill so I can run the chemical around the tree. The label says to go out 3 to 4 ft. from the base but it seems to me that the drip line should also be drenched. There are several roots running above the ground level so I will for sure soak around those. Not many Aphids on the porch today so the soap did good. I'm thinking of submitting a request to the U.S, Department of Trees for a newly discovered tree species. This one is an Oashk tree and I think it could be the only one in existance. I did finally confessed to the Waf that I just thought I was a "professioal expert" on types of trees but I was wr-wr-wro-wroo-wrong. :frown:


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## Sawdust7 (May 7, 2012)

*Full*



dingeryote said:


> Good show!! LOL!!
> 
> For a short time anyhow, the imadaclorpid will go systemic from the foliar contact, so the little darlings will be killing themselves when they take a bite out of the tree. More will die over the next couple days, and further up from where you could reach with the sprayer.



Now I didn't spray any imadaclorpid on the foliage, just the dish soap. Were you under the impression I did spray imadaclorpid? Should I?


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## dingeryote (May 7, 2012)

Sawdust7 said:


> Now I didn't spray any imadaclorpid on the foliage, just the dish soap. Were you under the impression I did spray imadaclorpid? Should I?



Heck, I thought you had sprayed the tree. Absolutely do so if you didn't.
Imadaclorpid has pretty good initial knockdown and will go somewhat systemic through foliar contact. 
What drips off, will still get into the root zone, so there is no loss.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## Sawdust7 (May 7, 2012)

Well, I reckon I set the pump back up tomorrow and spray then use the remaining to drench around the tree. I'll go get another 32oz jug tomorrow to make sure I have enough. Thank you dingerote, I'm glad we had this talk. Like I said, I may not know what I'm doing but I'm an expert at it.


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## Sawdust7 (May 13, 2012)

Well it's been a touch and go week with the Waf. She had some serious issues with her heart but she is doing fine now. I finally got time today to do the spray with the Bonide tree and shrub with the Imidacloprid. I had just finished the root drench Tuesday morning when she called from work and said she was coming home then to ER. Needless to say, the tree had to wait. The aphids have diminished a lot from the first spray with the dish soap and sur-fac. I'll keep progress posted. Thank you all for the expert advise.


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## dingeryote (May 13, 2012)

Sorry to hear about the wife..Hows she doing?
I hope everything is alright.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## Sawdust7 (May 14, 2012)

Thank you for the concerns dingerote and Sagetown, makes us feel like we have extended family of which I guess this site is. She is doing a lot better and will probably go back to work tomorrow. She had another EKG today and waiting for the results from the doctor. Lately she has been under some stress from anticipation of losing a brother who was in Hospice care but finally went Home Friday night. I think that relieved her a lot because he is no longer suffering. Having to deal with some of her employees at work doesn't help the matter much either. Those things take their toll on her and we suspect she let her resistance go down. She's a tough cookie and I'm sure she'll be around a long time. She's gotta be tough to put up with me lol. Right now that oashk tree is on auto pilot, gonna stay in more with the Waf. You guys are the greatest. I will post back.


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## Sawdust7 (May 25, 2012)

Well I guess it's a success. The tree is sprouting new growth like crazy and no signs of any Aphids. I truly appreciate all of the expert help from you guys and now I reckon I got the chainsaw bug back since I've been back to this site. Now I'm getting the urge to track down the parts for my old ProMac 610 and get her up and running again. My Mom paid for it after Hurricane Alicia and I drove it. Can't bring myself to get rid of it. The Waf is back to normal and that is wonderful. She said she ain't gonna let me off that easy lol. 
Thank you all so very much for all you've done, Frank


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## dingeryote (May 25, 2012)

Well thats good news!!

Wife is back in good health and all the creepys are croaked. 

The gents over on the Chainsaw page will likely be able to get ya up to speed on that old Mac., as far as spiffing it up.
Carefull though, you might end up with a shed full of saws faster than you can count the things...it happens.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## Sawdust7 (May 28, 2012)

Most important is the Waf of course. With all the bugs gone from the tree, I got her as my backup for "bugging" me. Wouldn't have it any other way though. Everybody have a safe and "Memorable" Memorial Day. Frank
:soldier:


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## berani (Jun 6, 2012)

One of the more common problems with huge oaks, actually. Though it could be that there just are huge parts that they are being made available in whatever situation they are included to.

There is a common problem with ants that we actually experience and having the parts be smoked is one of the more common and most efficient solutions to drive them away just like that.


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## KellyBelle (Jul 23, 2012)

Sagetown said:


> You're welcome sawdust: It's an old time remedy. The soap allows the mineral oil to penetrate and break down the insects soft bodies. A weaker solution for corn ear worms is sprayed on the corn tassels as soon as they appear, killing the larvae trying to enter. Also used on Aphid infested tomato plants by spraying the underside of the leaves where they hide using an old WINDEX spray bottle with the solution.



Sage, just buy an udder cleaner spray bottle at any ag store. It makes it easier, you don't have to bend your neck.


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## Sagetown (Jul 24, 2012)

KellyBelle said:


> Sage, just buy an udder cleaner spray bottle at any ag store. It makes it easier, you don't have to bend your neck.



Hmm. I'll have to check that out. Thanks


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## Sawdust7 (Jul 24, 2012)

Thought I'd let ya'll know I'm still alive and kickin' and so is that beautiful "oASHk tree. Everytime I look up at it I think about you all and get a big smiley grin. :msp_biggrin: Have been busy as heck around here and just now on the downside of whatever the docs couldn't figure out. All's looking blessed now. Have a lot of trees out in back pastures that didn't survive last years drought and starting to drop limbs. Mostly Pines and they are along the Railroad fenceline so I just let them stand. Have to pick them off the fence once in awhile. Just part of wanting to live here I reckon.


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## Sagetown (Jul 24, 2012)

Glad that Oakish tree made it. I've been watering my few backyard pines before the drought got ahold of'em. So far so good.


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## KellyBelle (Jul 31, 2012)

*My oak is still having wasp, hornet, june bug visitations*

Now I know why one of you replied good luck when I told you I had washed the tree with the lemon soap solution by Jerry Baker. 1.The oak has developed white foamy spots in two new locations. Also I was sitting beside it watering and looked at the bark in one section. 2.It looked dark, like it was wet, but it came off in three pieces. I am attaching way too many pictures probably but I really am concerned. 3.The south side of the trunk is where I first noticed the brown bleeding I mentioned in my 1st posting. 4.Now a swath of the branches on the south side have dead leaves, about four inches wide. I'm told this is the 2nd tree to occupy this spot so I don't want to lose it. 5.I have taken picture of leaves so you can see it is a "...." oak. I have different "..." oak 15' to the west. 6. It's okay, well except for the chlornosis & I think I'm gaining on that. My neighbor's oak has Chlorois too. Ours looked alike, 7.his oak, 8. my oak, 9. leaf of that oak.
1. I can't figure out how to show you my pictures


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## Sagetown (Aug 1, 2012)

Hi KellyBelle. To load pics to your post you need to edit the pics on your computer . Usually your digital camera came with a CD with this tool which you've probably already installed. Right click on the pic and a small window opens . Scroll down with your Mouse to 'Open With'. Another window opens. Find your editing program, for example Canon has one called (Zb Module). Click on it to open the utility. Locate your pic in the editor and reduce it's size to 300KB or smaller. From there I just go to my profile a upload the pic following the directions there. Seems easier than the directions given in the 'Sticky' on the Picture Forum of ArborSite. To find it click Forum at the top left of the Posts and scroll down.


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## KellyBelle (Aug 1, 2012)

Sagetown said:


> Hi KellyBelle. To load pics to your post you need to edit the pics on your computer . Usually your digital camera came with a CD with this tool which you've probably already installed. Right click on the pic and a small window opens . Scroll down with your Mouse to 'Open With'. Another window opens. Find your editing program, for example Canon has one called (Zb Module). Click on it to open the utility. Locate your pic in the editor and reduce it's size to 300KB or smaller. From there I just go to my profile a upload the pic following the directions there. Seems easier than the directions given in the 'Sticky' on the Picture Forum of ArborSite. To find it click Forum at the top left of the Posts and scroll down.



Wow. Thank you very much. I will try that because I truly have concerns and I figure you Obi Wan Kenobis of the Arbor can set me straight.


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