# DIY Barrel Stoves...



## ChipMonger (Nov 22, 2014)

All,

Im curious to hear what you all think of home made barrel stoves, you know, buy the kit of pieces and bolt them to a 55 gallon drum to make the "stove". I have a decently large shop that is currently unheated, and poorly insulated. I cant do much about the insulation issue as the rent is dirt cheap and the landlord isnt willing to insulate, however, there are provisions to put in a wood stove of some sort.

I figured a barrel stove might be a good way to go seeing as the parts kit is cheap, 55 gallon drums are plentiful, and i can feed it with plenty of pallet wood. So id like to hear what your opinions are, all of em' the good, the bad, the ugly of these types of "stoves" as i have zero experience with these and dont know anyone that does....So lets hear it.


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## CWME (Nov 22, 2014)

One of the cabins at scout camp had one when I was a kid. That sucker put out an unreal amount of heat. It was only the single barrel type. The double barrel setup always gets my attention when flipping through the Northern tool fliers.


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## zogger (Nov 22, 2014)

They used to be real common. They throw heat. I also like the idea of the double barrel model.


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## KenJax Tree (Nov 22, 2014)

I have a 55 gallon stove in my garage and just put one in my hunting cabin a few weeks ago. They're cheap, simple to make, and put out lots of heat. I say go for it[emoji106]

First fire at the cabin





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## dave_dj1 (Nov 22, 2014)

I have one in my garage, it heats great. I lined the bottom of mine with fire brick though, don't want it to wear through too soon.
I used red high temp rtv to act like a gasket when I bolted the parts on, not sure if it works or not as it was squashed quite thin but I wanted it.


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## KenJax Tree (Nov 22, 2014)

I put about 2" of sand in the bottom of mine


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## Whitespider (Nov 22, 2014)

I've used 'em... several of 'em (still have one stored in the shed)... and I've been around dozens of 'em. Truth is, 'round here anyway, the barrel stove is the "go to" heater for a shed, shop, barn, man cave hang out, huntin' shack, and whatnot. They make a ton of friggin' heat... a friggin' ton... and they make it quick. That's why they're chosen for uninsulated places not heated 24/7... your buddy stops with a box-o-beer, ya' walk in the shed (away from the woman folk), and your barrel is crankin' out the heat in a five minutes. At times ya' can't stand within ten feet of the thing without gettin' an instant sunburn.

They also eat wood, a lot of it... that's the price for a lot of heat, non-stop. But for an area you only use a few hours a week, or even a month... so what?? I've never burned pallet wood so I can't say for sure how that would work in a barrel... but, after all, wood-is-wood.

Barrel choice can make a difference. I like to find the ones made from heavier gauge steel... although there's fewer and fewer of those around. I also like the ones you can lift the whole lid off by removing a band clamp... but those are even harder to find now-a-days. Whatever barrel you get, throw a few inches of (dry) sand in the bottom, keeps the bottom from burnin' through. You'll likely need a flue damper to keep it under control... place it as high off the barrel as possible so the shaft don't sag from heat (yeah they get that hot). If there's any combustible surfaces close, you'll wanna' shield them with something... sheet steel works good, or aluminum if you have it.

I always hung a box fan above mine, wired through a cheap line-voltage thermostat (close on rise)... when it would kick on a lot of heat got distributed, fast‼
*


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## KenJax Tree (Nov 22, 2014)

Pretty much nailed it Spidey but i didn't want to type all that. Lol


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## WoodTick007 (Nov 22, 2014)

Yup. They are good for heat. They are not good for insurane claims as insurance companies do not like them @ all.


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## Iska3 (Nov 22, 2014)

About the only thing Spidey forgot is, make sure your first burn is outside. I've use them in my basement and garage for many years.


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## 066blaster (Nov 22, 2014)

Start a hot fire in it outside to burn the paint off it.


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## Whitespider (Nov 22, 2014)

Iska3 said:


> _*...make sure your first burn is outside.*_


*LOL*
Or, in the case of the OP, with the overhead shop doors wide friggin' open‼
*


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## slowp (Nov 22, 2014)

Don't use the plastic barrels.


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## ChipMonger (Nov 22, 2014)

Whitespider said:


> *LOL*
> Or, in the case of the OP, with the overhead shop doors wide friggin' open‼
> *


LMAO...That wont be a problem. i'll open the doors as wide as they will go. Im to impatient to do the first burn out back, then let it cool and move it inside, i understand why though. Once its built, its getting lit. lol


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## Whitespider (Nov 22, 2014)

Just cut the plastic barrel up and use the pieces as fire starter 
*


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## ChipMonger (Nov 22, 2014)

Couple more questions...

Kenjax...are you burning right on the layer of sand, or do you have a grate above it? looks like you have a grate in the pic you attached.

For those of you using fire brick, are you just laying the brick in the bottom of the barrel, and putting a grate over it? or burning right on the brick

Any pics you guys have of the inside of the barrel would be great.


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## KenJax Tree (Nov 22, 2014)

Yes there was a grate from an old grill in the picuture but its no longer in there


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## NSMaple1 (Nov 22, 2014)

A shop?

Is this a place of business?

With insurance?

Red flags if so.


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## ChipMonger (Nov 22, 2014)

A shop?

Is this a place of business?

With insurance?

Red flags if so.[/QUOTE]

NSMaple...

Personal shop, no insurance. Unless im using it for a project it sits empty. I do not keep any tools etc in it. The building is in a very bad part of the inner city. The only thing in it would be the barrel stove, and that would be out when i left the building for the day.


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## hupte (Nov 22, 2014)

i have a friend with a barrel stove. he has made and used many over the years. after a few years the metal gets thin. he once was walking buy the stove one winter and bumped the bottom with his foot and put a hole in the barrel. to me that sounds really unsafe but his argument is that since its a metal shop it cant burn, but he keeps a big pile of wood right next to the barrel stove. I've seen sparks shoot out his vent below the door. i wouldn't put a barrel stove in a building unless i wanted to burn the building down. my life and my shop are just to valuable to me. but to each their own.


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## stumpy75 (Nov 22, 2014)

I used one inside a mobile home, with the pipe running out a window. Yep, not the thing to do, but it did work.  Only had it burning when I was there.

Used a 35 gal barrel, and it really put out the heat, with not that much wood. I did put sand in the bottom of it. Was on all propane then, and that was expensive even 40 years ago. So the propane thermostat got set at 50, and the barrel stove heated the place when I got home. I had an unlimited supply of Doug Fir at that time, and it burned fast and hot.


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## hupte (Nov 22, 2014)

ChipMonger said:


> A shop?
> 
> Personal shop, no insurance. Unless im using it for a project it sits empty. I do not keep any tools etc in it. The building is in a very bad part of the inner city. The only thing in it would be the barrel stove, and that would be out when i left the building for the day.



if there is no tools or anything, and it sits empty then whats the point of heating it? what do you use the building for?


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## Whitespider (Nov 22, 2014)

I've done the grate thing in 'em... used one of those elevated fireplace grates. It made the thing burn even hotter (harder to control), and shorter. I built one once with baffles and a grate... worked real good, but a lot more work than just bolting on the parts kit. If'n I was you (and I ain't), for a shop... I'd buy the kit, bolt on the parts, shovel some sand in it, and throw the wood to it. Why add expense, or make it more complicated than it needs to be?? KISS ‼
Find, or build, yourself a small rake-like thing (with a metal handle, if possible) to maintain the fire with (I made mine).



NSMaple1 said:


> _*A shop? Is this a place of business? With insurance? Red flags if so.*_


We've done the "insurance" discussion thing before. What insurance companies can, or cannot do changes with location, according to state/local law. Heck, I know of one automotive repair shop, in town, with a barrel stove... and it even has a used oil drip coil in it. Another shop has a used oil burner made from a water heater core. And I can have multiple appliances connected to a single chimney (which is how this chimney has been used for 100 years). According to state/local laws, the insurance companies can't revoke or penalize if you're not breaking local code. There is no federal law requiring any state or community to adhere to the NFPA NEC... the NFPC is an "Association", and it's published codes are voluntary, not mandatory.



hupte said:


> _*I wouldn't put a barrel stove in a building unless i wanted to burn the building down.*_


That's silly... how safe something is, or is not, depends entirely on how it's used and maintained.
Heck, people burn their houses down with brand new, professionally installed stoves... or cigarettes... every year.
Just because your friend over-fires the thing to the point sparks are flying from it, or doesn't replace the barrel in a timely way, don't make them unsafe... it makes him (the user) unsafe.

Heck, the number one cause of house fires is from cooking... you gonna' stop cooking in your home?? Candles cause about the same amount of fires as heating equipment... does your wife burn candles??
*


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## Sawyer Rob (Nov 22, 2014)

The OLD 55 gallon drums were quite thick, they made a decent bbl. stove. The drums of today are quite thin and I personally wouldn't want one full of fire in any of my buildings!

SR


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## ChipMonger (Nov 22, 2014)

hupte said:


> if there is no tools or anything, and it sits empty then whats the point of heating it? what do you use the building for?



I use it when i have a project; mostly larger steel fabrication projects that i cant do at home . I bring in what i need, when im done, it all comes with me. I need the space periodically, and the neighborhood is just to crappy to leave anything there of value. The price was to good to turn down, hence wanting to heat it only when im there working.


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## hupte (Nov 22, 2014)

Whitespider said:


> That's silly... how safe something is, or is not, depends entirely on how it's used and maintained.
> Heck, people burn their houses down with brand new, professionally installed stoves... or cigarettes... every year.
> Just because your friend over-fires the thing to the point sparks are flying from it, or doesn't replace the barrel in a timely way, don't make them unsafe... it makes him (the user) unsafe.
> 
> ...


thats not true at all!!! guns kill ppl!!! so do cars, doctors, and alcoholic beverages, and dont even get me started on nail guns!!! a rubber mallot is the only thing i use to build a house!!!
cooking?? all my cooking gets done in the microwave. or the hot wheel. (pizzazz) A WIFE???? WHAT???? do i look crazy??? i dont have a wife!!! haven't met a girl dumb enough to wanna marry me. lol. jk

what makes you think he over-fired the stove? have you ever burned mulberry? it sparks like a machine gun at times. i agree though that he could be safer with his stove and placement of wood. for me personally i wouldn't take the risk of a barrel stove. but i have been told that i overthink things once or twice.


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## hupte (Nov 22, 2014)

Whitespider said:


> That's silly... how safe something is, or is not, depends entirely on how it's used and maintained.*



your theory spidey is correct. as long as you do everything properly you'll never have a problem... my problem is though that i'm not perfect, i make mistakes, i forget to check things sometimes... as soon as i'm perfect i'll consider installing a barrel stove.


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## Whitespider (Nov 22, 2014)

hupte said:


> _*A WIFE???? WHAT???? do i look crazy???*_


My apologies... LOL... you're obviously, without any doubt, smarter than me... LMFAO‼
*


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## Philbert (Nov 22, 2014)

Whitespider said:


> There is no federal law requiring any state or community to adhere to the NFPA NEC... the NFPC is an "Association", and it's published codes are voluntary, not mandatory.



States and local authorities '_adopt_' the NFPA codes, and then they are mandatory, subject to interpretation by '_the authority having jurisdiction_' - usually the State or local Fire Marshall.

You can look for drum recycling companies if you don't have a personal supply of the metal drums, and you can be pick about what you specify that way too.

Philbert


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## zogger (Nov 22, 2014)

hupte said:


> thats not true at all!!! guns kill ppl!!! so do cars, doctors, and alcoholic beverages, and dont even get me started on nail guns!!! a rubber mallot is the only thing i use to build a house!!!
> cooking?? all my cooking gets done in the microwave. or the hot wheel. (pizzazz) A WIFE???? WHAT???? do i look crazy??? i dont have a wife!!! haven't met a girl dumb enough to wanna marry me. lol. jk
> 
> what makes you think he over-fired the stove? have you ever burned mulberry? it sparks like a machine gun at times. i agree though that he could be safer with his stove and placement of wood. for me personally i wouldn't take the risk of a barrel stove. but i have been told that i overthink things once or twice.



I guess you could use the 30 gallon kit, and install it inside a 55 gallon barrel, and put a blower fan in the back. Even if it burned through, not likely with sand or firebrick on the bottom, at worst it would fall to another layer of steel.


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## Whitespider (Nov 22, 2014)

Philbert said:


> _*States and local authorities '**adopt**' the NFPA codes...*_


...or just portions of it, or modify parts or it, or ignore all of it.
What's your point??
*


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## Philbert (Nov 22, 2014)

zogger said:


> I guess you could use the 30 gallon kit, and install it inside a 55 gallon barrel, and put a blower fan in the back.



We made an oven like that many years ago at a wilderness camp. Built the fire in the larger drum and baked in the smaller one.

Philbert


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## firebrick43 (Nov 22, 2014)

Dad made one from a 300 gallon heating oil tank with 55 gallon drum on top. Burn oak trailer flooring scraps and anything else fit in the door. Grandpa had the twin 55 gallon stove. 

Both were ravenous eaters but would put out the heat. Our shop was uninsulated without even a ceiling (40. X 40) and I remember the winter of 94 we had a week of negative 20 weather. Shop was warm. Sides of the stove were glowing red but we were warm. Both stoves were removed because insurance company refused coverage if non UL approved stoves were installed.


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## Philbert (Nov 22, 2014)

You gonna port those drums, or use factory settings?

Philbert


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## tla100 (Nov 22, 2014)

I picked up a Volgelzang barrel in scrap heap I got for nothing. Was thinking of putting in insulated 24x24 shop that buddy rents from me. it has 8' walls with vaulted ceiling, I think just bat insulation between outside steel and inside sheetrock. I bought it and moved to my place, haven't done anything with it yet. So, shop has no overhead doors, one walkin 36" and one other that is around 48" . 

So, how close to a sheetrocked wall can these "stoves" be? Or should I put dead center of shop? Better for heat distribution but may get in way. At some point I may put some overhead doors in. 

Would like to only punch one hole in roof if possible. Also could put an old Fisher or Woodland pops has in shed too.


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## firebrick43 (Nov 23, 2014)

I would do dead center if you could. Dads was and it worked well. Grandpas was in a corner and didn't do nearly as well. Central location is going to put the chimney in the best place as well.

If you do put the stove in a corner I would be very generous with clearances like 4' plus. I would also put up standoff heat sheild on the walls. Sheet of 20~ gauge galvanized steel spaces off the wall 1" (metal spacers) would work well.

But in all reality in a shop that size that's even just air sealed drywall or interior metal, that stove will run you out. A small stove such as a jotul 602 or other equivlent will suffice. At least find some of the old 20-30 gallon grease drums and transfer the door, legs, and pipe collars over.

I would suggest interior metal siding instead of drywall in a shop. It's not that much more than 5/8 drywall and is much more durable and a greater piece of mind to sparks from a torch or welder. Friends shop is drywall and there are lots of dents and holes. The white painted panels give you a brighter work area compared to untainted drywall and if you paint and finish the drywall you bring price even closer. And sheet metal panels are much easier to handle than drywall on a ceiling. 


When we removed our barrel stove a 300k btu propane went in. It did not do the job until we put 3/4 foil face celotex on the ceiling sealing off the rafters.


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## tla100 (Nov 23, 2014)

I agree 100% on steel, inside. I did white steel in my heated 32x50 garage, it is great. Shop is only drywall from previous owner. Probably throw it in middle, thanks for info.


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## cre73 (Nov 23, 2014)

Had one for a few years in my shop. Double barrel setup. Heat was great. I also installed a door in the top barrel and placed a rack inside. Worked great for cooking out in the shop.


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## firebrick43 (Nov 24, 2014)

Del_ said:


> When I cut the door on the lower 55 I put it on the end without the bung holes making sure that one of the bungs was at it's lowest position. Removing the bung plug I screwed in a 1.5 inch pipe from the inside of the drum. This pipe serves as the pre heated air input, sits in the bed of coals and has a Tee on it's end with a plug so one opening faces up.



Great idea! Could even keep on going with the pipe(if the stove location worked) and get outside air!


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## Dilly (Nov 24, 2014)

I've been thinking hard about these style stoves. My folks are about to purchase acreage and my dad wants to build a shop/barn so this is the heating option I think I'll go with.


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## Dilly (Nov 24, 2014)

I think it'll be a good fit for us. I'm not real found of buying a new stove just to go in a shop. Plus with these if it's not enough heat for us always add another. Notes about water being new to this what type of stove pipe should I run the shop won't be insulated will have a roof though shingles not a metal roof.


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## firebrick43 (Nov 24, 2014)

Del_ said:


> They kick ass!
> 
> Be careful water can't get down the chimney because with the thin steel involved rust is a real quick killer.
> 
> The good news is the fittings can be reused on a new barrel.



That brought back a memory. My dad's stove, while never having issues with the stove itself it seamed like the stove pipe failed ever second year and the panic that ensued, we started replacing the pipe every fall


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## Chris-PA (Nov 24, 2014)

There was one in the scout camp cabin my son and I stayed at a few times. We didn't even load it that much and the thing cranked out the whole building. I'd just be concerned about how well the barrels would hold up.


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## zogger (Nov 24, 2014)

Chris-PA said:


> There was one in the scout camp cabin my son and I stayed at a few times. We didn't even load it that much and the thing cranked out the whole building. I'd just be concerned about how well the barrels would hold up.



You might could use an old fuel tank instead of a barrel. Like the oil tanks guys make BBQ smokers from.


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## Whitespider (Nov 25, 2014)

zogger said:


> _*You might could use an old fuel tank instead of a barrel.*_


Heck yeah ya' can... and they save a ton of work.
If'n ya' put a big enough door on 'em there ain't any need to cut the old tires up‼
*


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## Fred Wright (Nov 25, 2014)

Years ago my uncle had a dual barrel version in his auto shop building. It cranked out the heat all right and it had an appetite to match. It set in the middle of the building with the flue going straight up through the roof. A layer of sand in the bottom kept it from burning through.

Before he retired he was in there working all week and burning the barrel stove all winter. His only complaint was the barrels burned out every couple years. And he didn't much like shoveling out the ash. Got the whole shop dusty.


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## ChipMonger (Nov 26, 2014)

Ok, so barrel stove is going to be a go. Buddy has a line on Stainless barrel's...Anyone have any reason to NOT use a stainless barrel? I cant forsee a problem, but want to ask.


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## palmrose2 (Nov 26, 2014)

I imagine that stainless barrels, like stainless exhausts, will last a long long time.


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## redfin (Nov 26, 2014)

If you are burning directly on top of the sand how do you sort the sand and ashes?


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## Whitespider (Nov 26, 2014)

redfin said:


> _*...burning directly on top of the sand how do you sort the sand and ashes?*_


_*LOL*_
You're over-thinkin' it. A 55 gallon drum is pretty big, holds a ton of ashes... it ain't like ya' gotta' clean it out spick 'n' span.
Heck, after two or three months ya' just scoop some of them out... if ya' do scoop a bit too deep and hook a little sand, so what??
*


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## redfin (Nov 26, 2014)

Gotcha, I'm used to emptying my ash drawer every day.


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## Homelite410 (Nov 26, 2014)

Insurance lady said no flame in my garage so here is what I did and they underwrote it!




Its an add on furnace shielded by the oil barrel and pipe is 6" 12ga wall.


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## Sawyer Rob (Nov 26, 2014)

I don't think I'd want wood pallets under it like that! One spark just wrong and end of garage... Don't you have some cement blocks??

SR


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## Whitespider (Nov 26, 2014)

Homelite410 said:


> _*Insurance lady said no... so here is what I did...*_


_*L-O-L ‼*_
Ya' just gotta' love American ingenuity.
That looks just like somethin' I'd do... and be proud of it, ain't we??
*


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## Homelite410 (Nov 26, 2014)

Sawyer Rob said:


> I don't think I'd want wood pallets under it like that! One spark just wrong and end of garage... Don't you have some cement blocks??
> 
> SR


Prolly should... Been that way for 4 years!


Whitespider said:


> _*L-O-L ‼*_
> Ya' just gotta' love American ingenuity.
> That looks just like somethin' I'd do... and be proud of it, ain't we??
> *


Its temporary.......... 4 years ago....... I love it! And I burn the heck out of cottonwood cookies!!


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## Whitespider (Nov 26, 2014)

Homelite410 said:


> _*Its temporary.......... 4 years ago.......*_


Four years?? That's nothin'... LOL... I've got 20-year-old temporary stuff‼
*


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## tla100 (Nov 26, 2014)

I would just buy some firebrick. I see it every time I go into Bomgaars where I bought my stove. It is a small hardware store chain for those that don't live in NW Iowa. I think a box runs $10-15 if that. I should check. I had a couple bricks on my stove start to deteriorate after a year but just flipped em upside down.


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## Sawyer Rob (Nov 26, 2014)

I always just left some ashes in the bottom of mine, that insulates the bottom just fine...

SR


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## Whitespider (Nov 27, 2014)

Sawyer Rob said:


> _*I always just left some ashes in the bottom of mine, that insulates the bottom just fine...*_


Yeah, that will work, but there's a problem if it isn't being used regular... especially in a shop, shed or whatnot. Ash is hygroscopic, it draws moisture from the atmosphere, and damp ashes are highly corrosive (the potassium carbonate becomes potassium hydroxide... or lye). The sand in the bottom does more than insulate from fire, it also insulates from caustic corrosion.
*


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## AIM (Nov 27, 2014)

I installed one in my shop in town and really like it. I did the 2 barrel design. For what it's worth. You don't just slap one of these together in an hour. I think it took me like 6 hours to build the stupid thing.


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## Chris-PA (Nov 27, 2014)

ChipMonger said:


> Ok, so barrel stove is going to be a go. Buddy has a line on Stainless barrel's...Anyone have any reason to NOT use a stainless barrel? I cant forsee a problem, but want to ask.


A barrel stove with SS barrels would be pretty cool!


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## Iska3 (Nov 27, 2014)

Years ago we would pick up the smaller old milk bulk tanks that were around some of the farms, those old bulk tanks were small enough and stainless steel so they made great barrrel stoves. My friend had a barrel stove made from a 60 gal barrel, some of those stainless would crack due to the changes in temps. Hard to beat a $5.00 steel barrel with sand and some Barn Lime in the bottom.


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## firebrick43 (Nov 27, 2014)

Iska3 said:


> Years ago we would pick up the smaller old milk bulk tanks that were around some of the farms, those old bulk tanks were small enough and stainless steel so they made great barrrel stoves. My friend had a barrel stove made from a 60 gal barrel, some of those stainless would crack due to the changes in temps. Hard to beat a $5.00 steel barrel with sand and some Barn Lime in the bottom.



Ya beat me to it. Most stainless tanks and barrels are food grade therefore made typically out of 316 or 308. Neither is exceptionally well at high temps. 321 and 347 are much better but expensive as all out. As mentioned before, if wanting a large stove use a 300 gallon fuel oil tank. 

You could use a 125 gallon propane tank. Obviously take proper precautions when cutting open tanks so you don't blow yourself up


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## chuckwood (Nov 27, 2014)

zogger said:


> You might could use an old fuel tank instead of a barrel. Like the oil tanks guys make BBQ smokers from.



Some years ago when I was teaching myself to weld, I built a shop wood heater out of a 40 gallon water heater tank. The steel on these is a lot thicker than barrel steel. The tank sat horizontal, on angle iron legs, and the air control was on the front. You loaded the wood in through a door on the top. The stove pipe connected on the top rear of the heater. I got the plans for the heater from Mother Earth News magazine. To build one quickly, you also need a plasma cutter, as you will be cutting curved and round shapes. We used it at my son-in-law's farm shop, it was a concrete floor and steel building. The heater was a monster, ate wood like crazy but could also get so hot that you couldn't stand next to it if you gave it too much air. I melted a number of plastic trash cans that I mistakenly placed too close to it. There was lots of easy to get firewood on the farm, so feeding the beast wasn't much of a problem. The farm was sold, and I still have the 40 gallon beast, sitting in the woods under a tarp. I don't have a fireproof shop to set it up in anymore, maybe one of these days. If I ever build another, I may try a double tank setup like the barrel stoves, for even more efficiency.


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 3, 2015)

How's this for a barrel stove.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Jan 3, 2015)

Dad's homemade has been in use for 40 years now.







He used 2 old boiler tanks and attached an old coal furnace door. Simple slide for air intake but it's an on off thing. Open to start and closed the rest of the time. No fans as it's in the basement above the upstairs hallway. Register in the floor distributes the heat good enough that nothing else is needed.






Only upgrade was I welded on a new ring to the top barrel as he wanted a 6 inch pipe as opposed to the 5 inch he originally put on. Got to say he pretty much nailed it as far as design goes because he uses about 6 cord a year to heat the house here in Ohio.


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## muddstopper (Jan 3, 2015)

I bought a barrel stove kit a few weeks ago at NT. It said Vogelzang on the box, but the kit says barrel stove on the door. I know its not the same quality as my buddies volgzang stove. Even tho its in a Vogelzang box, it looks like a US Stove http://www.alpinehomeair.com/viewpr...from=froogle&gclid=CMPguLKv-cICFVIV7AodoRQAiQ. Kind of pissed me off considering I bought it about 350 miles from home and it was just to far to take it back. With that said, if you are going to buy a barrel stove kit, make sure the door says Vogelzang on the door and Not Barrel Stove. Even with the difference in quality, (thinner cast iron), I put the kit together and it will run you out of the shop. I dont follow instructions to well. I placed the door as high as I could and covered the small barrel bung. I removed the 2in barrel bung and installed a 2in nipple. To cover the nipple, I just cut out a round piece of metal, welded a nut to the nipple on top and ran a bolt thru it to the round piece of metal. I just push or pull the round flap for draft control. I can fill the stove with wood, close off the damper and draft, and have fire 12hrs later.


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 3, 2015)

muddstopper said:


> I bought a barrel stove kit a few weeks ago at NT. It said Vogelzang on the box, but the kit says barrel stove on the door. I know its not the same quality as my buddies volgzang stove. Even tho its in a Vogelzang box, it looks like a US Stove http://www.alpinehomeair.com/viewpr...from=froogle&gclid=CMPguLKv-cICFVIV7AodoRQAiQ. Kind of pissed me off considering I bought it about 350 miles from home and it was just to far to take it back. With that said, if you are going to buy a barrel stove kit, make sure the door says Vogelzang on the door and Not Barrel Stove. Even with the difference in quality, (thinner cast iron), I put the kit together and it will run you out of the shop. I dont follow instructions to well. I placed the door as high as I could and covered the small barrel bung. I removed the 2in barrel bung and installed a 2in nipple. To cover the nipple, I just cut out a round piece of metal, welded a nut to the nipple on top and ran a bolt thru it to the round piece of metal. I just push or pull the round flap for draft control. I can fill the stove with wood, close off the damper and draft, and have fire 12hrs later.


Is this one similar? Looks like good quality.


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 3, 2015)

The cat's got the right idea!


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## bluesportster02 (Jan 3, 2015)

Gypo Logger said:


> Is this one similar? Looks like good quality.View attachment 391781


this one is an air tight it has rope seals on both doors


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## muddstopper (Jan 3, 2015)

yea, thats what I thought I was getting. Should have opened the box before I left the store. What I got also says China on it. The box definately said Voglezan,


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## Philbert (Jan 3, 2015)

Gypo Logger said:


> The cat's got the right idea!



Is that cat named '_Sam McGee_'?

Philbert


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 3, 2015)

Hot Russian stove.


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 3, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Is that cat named '_Sam McGee_'?
> 
> Philbert


Lol, that's what I was thinking too.


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## sledge&wedge (Jan 14, 2016)

For those of you that now or previously used a double-barrel setup --- Did you ever look into running some small diameter steel pipe through both ends of the upper barrel (and welding it in) and setting up a blower of some kind on one end to push cold air through and heated air out the other end? I am getting ready to start building a double-barrel and am debating on whether or not to try this trick. The second barrel is already intended to act as a heat sink; seems to me adding some forced air tubes through it would greatly increase the heat you can get out of the setup. Thoughts???


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## svk (Jan 14, 2016)

sledge&wedge said:


> For those of you that now or previously used a double-barrel setup --- Did you ever look into running some small diameter steel pipe through both ends of the upper barrel (and welding it in) and setting up a blower of some kind on one end to push cold air through and heated air out the other end? I am getting ready to start building a double-barrel and am debating on whether or not to try this trick. The second barrel is already intended to act as a heat sink; seems to me adding some forced air tubes through it would greatly increase the heat you can get out of the setup. Thoughts???


Heck of an idea.


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## Philbert (Jan 14, 2016)

sledge&wedge said:


> Did you ever look into running some small diameter steel pipe through both ends of the upper barrel (and welding it in) . . .


I think that it would work great as a heat exchanger - boilers use similar heat transfer pipes.
*IF* (and it's a big 'if') you are willing and able to do the welding. In my mind, barrel stoves are popular because they are cheap and easy. If you are going to invest this time and effort into a used, sheet metal barrel, maybe you want to design and build a stove from more durable materials? Either way, please post some photos!

Philbert


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## Sawyer Rob (Jan 14, 2016)

sledge&wedge said:


> For those of you that now or previously used a double-barrel setup --- Did you ever look into running some small diameter steel pipe through both ends of the upper barrel (and welding it in) and setting up a blower of some kind on one end to push cold air through and heated air out the other end? I am getting ready to start building a double-barrel and am debating on whether or not to try this trick. The second barrel is already intended to act as a heat sink; seems to me adding some forced air tubes through it would greatly increase the heat you can get out of the setup. Thoughts???


 I've seen them done that way, but I've never done it myself...

SR


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## sledge&wedge (Jan 14, 2016)

Philbert said:


> I think that it would work great as a heat exchanger - boilers use similar heat transfer pipes.
> *IF* (and it's a big 'if') you are willing and able to do the welding. In my mind, barrel stoves are popular because they are cheap and easy. If you are going to invest this time and effort into a used, sheet metal barrel, maybe you want to design and build a stove from more durable materials? Either way, please post some photos!
> 
> Philbert



I totally agree with you; however I couldn't justify the extra money right now. My hope is that this stove will get me through a couple years while I work on some other home/shop projects and then come back to revisit the shop heat issue with a fatter wallet. My dad is a decent welder and my uncle is even better than him, and both would be willing to work for a few beers and a couple burgers off the grill, so I've got that covered I think. It is going to be a slow process getting it all built due to being short on time and long on a list of hobbies, but I will try to document my process and post it up here when I get it all done and tested.


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## Oldman47 (Jan 14, 2016)

You might consider going to smaller diameter pipe inside the barrel so that you have a bigger heat transfer surface to really suck the heat out.


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## sledge&wedge (Jan 15, 2016)

Oldman47 said:


> You might consider going to smaller diameter pipe inside the barrel so that you have a bigger heat transfer surface to really suck the heat out.



Definitely a consideration to keep in mind. I thought about that initially, but I found a 6" duct-booster fan for cheap when I was ordering parts so I am going to start with that. However, I am planning to position the 6" tube dead center of the upper barrel so that I can go in and install some smaller tubes around it if I feel I need more heat. Thanks for the suggestion.


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## dave_dj1 (Jan 15, 2016)

I just had a thought about barrel stoves. I have the Vogelzang single barrel kit and it seems a* lot* of heat goes right up the pipe, even with the damper closed down. What would happen if we let the stove pipe go right down into the barrel about a foot? Kind of like the new DIY outdoor boilers are made these days. I wonder if this would help the efficiency of the stove.


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## svk (Jan 15, 2016)

Probably lots of smoke out of the door anytime you open it. 

My buddy has a homemade stove made from a chunk of pipe and the door is too high. Every time you open it up there's smoke everywhere.


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## zogger (Jan 15, 2016)

dave_dj1 said:


> I just had a thought about barrel stoves. I have the Vogelzang single barrel kit and it seems a* lot* of heat goes right up the pipe, even with the damper closed down. What would happen if we let the stove pipe go right down into the barrel about a foot? Kind of like the new DIY outdoor boilers are made these days. I wonder if this would help the efficiency of the stove.



I have thought about those barrel stoves a lot. Say you started with one with a totally removable top lid so you can work freely inside. Ok, now add in two countered baffles a couple inches apart, so the gases have to travel back and forth inside before exiting the normally installed exhaust. Bottom baffle has the opening at the rear, top baffle at the front, then gases go across the very top of the inside of the barrel and out. Leave the gaps decent for the baffles. Now weld the lid with the door installed back to the barrel, it has to block that top baffle enough to not leak, or add an additional smoke barrier plate there.

I think you would get a lot more efficient burning inside the barrel and more heat out of it and not going up the stack. You could still have a normal top barrel as well, just make sure whatever chimney/draw you have is good enough for an additional two turns inside the stove.


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## GVS (Jan 15, 2016)

zogger said:


> I have thought about those barrel stoves a lot. Say you started with one with a totally removable top lid so you can work freely inside. Ok, now add in two countered baffles a couple inches apart, so the gases have to travel back and forth inside before exiting the normally installed exhaust. Bottom baffle has the opening at the rear, top baffle at the front, then gases go across the very top of the inside of the barrel and out. Leave the gaps decent for the baffles. Now weld the lid with the door installed back to the barrel, it has to block that top baffle enough to not leak, or add an additional smoke barrier plate there.
> 
> I think you would get a lot more efficient burning inside the barrel and more heat out of it and not going up the stack. You could still have a normal top barrel as well, just make sure whatever chimney/draw you have is good enough for an additional two turns inside the stove.


That's a good idea Zogger.But the stove operator must not allow the fire to go crazy so as not to cause the baffle(s) to sag.


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## zogger (Jan 15, 2016)

GVS said:


> That's a good idea Zogger.But the stove operator must not allow the fire to go crazy so as not to cause the baffle(s) to sag.



Ya, thought of that, would need cross and vertical support brackets as well as using some heavier gauge steel for the baffles themselves. And then maybe start with something like a propane tank instead of a normal oil drum? Some sort of barrel shape heavier gauge, as mentioned elsewhere, large steel casing/pipe.


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## sledge&wedge (Feb 12, 2016)

Got my double barrel built and installed a couple weekends ago, forgot all about this thread. I don't have the additional heat exchanger installed yet (haven't convinced my uncle to come by for a welding visit), but everything else is running smoothly. I had a short enough run of pipe that I was able to avoid having to use a ceiling support box, and instead just cut my pass-through very close to the OD of the chimney pipe. Once I get the exchanger and associated parts installed I will start up a new thread with the pics I'm sure I'll get bashed on for not having here yet.


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## olyman (Feb 12, 2016)

dave_dj1 said:


> I just had a thought about barrel stoves. I have the Vogelzang single barrel kit and it seems a* lot* of heat goes right up the pipe, even with the damper closed down. What would happen if we let the stove pipe go right down into the barrel about a foot? Kind of like the new DIY outdoor boilers are made these days. I wonder if this would help the efficiency of the stove.


 not on the botttom drum. but if you added the second barrel,,yes..been there, even now..


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## duckybud (Feb 12, 2016)

I have been using the same barrels in a double 35 gallon stove for 31 years. Just last year tore down and did an inspect and reseal, only problem found was slight warp on one side of the bottom barrel. The stove was built with the Stotz kit which was UL approved and my insurance company covered it installed in the basement. I only keep about 1 inch of ash in the bottom and have not had a problem with burn out or controlling the fire. I burn black locust and can hold heat all night with no problem. I do clean all the ash out of the bottom once the heating season is over, read many years ago that ash or sand left in it through the summer months will collect moisture from the damp air and cause the barrel to rust.


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## Del_ (Feb 12, 2016)

The Stotz kits are nice. It a shame they aren't still being sold. I've got one in the shop out back and had another that I gave to a friend. Mine are both double 55 gallon.


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## duckybud (Feb 12, 2016)

Del,
Do you have the automatic draft control? Its the bomb once you figure out where to set for the temps you want.


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## olyman (Feb 12, 2016)

Del_ said:


> The Stotz kits are nice. It a shame they aren't still being sold. I've got one in the shop out back and had another that I gave to a friend. Mine are both double 55 gallon.


 correct spelling???


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## Del_ (Feb 12, 2016)

duckybud said:


> Del,
> Do you have the automatic draft control? Its the bomb once you figure out where to set for the temps you want.



I do have one. It fits on the door over the air entrance opening.

I also had a catalytic kit that Sotz sold from back in the eighties.

I thought Sotz was off the market.

Do you know if they are still being sold?


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## duckybud (Feb 12, 2016)

They are out of business from all the research I have done. I too had the catalytic converter, never did see the benefits they were advertised to produce. I just last year remover it from the stove even though it hadn't been used in years.


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## duckybud (Feb 12, 2016)

Olyman,
It is correct but they have been out of business since mid 90's I beleave.


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## olyman (Feb 12, 2016)

duckybud said:


> Olyman,
> It is correct but they have been out of business since mid 90's I beleave.


 spelling was wrong on del,,then he corrected it.......


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## WoodTick007 (Feb 13, 2016)

Gypo Logger said:


> Is this one similar? Looks like good quality.View attachment 391781


Where did you find that? It appears that the majority of them at the cheap china crap ones. Let me know
Thanks


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## hamish (Feb 13, 2016)

Up at our old Moose and some years Mouse Camp, we installed a baffle in the barrel stove, cut down greatly on the wood consumption and much less heat was going up the chimney. Was always fun watching the new guy put his "new" boots near the stove to dry them out, only to find a molten pile of rubber and leather 20 minutes later, stunk like hell but was always good for a laugh.


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## olyman (Feb 13, 2016)

hamish said:


> Up at our old Moose and some years Mouse Camp, we installed a baffle in the barrel stove, cut down greatly on the wood consumption and much less heat was going up the chimney. Was always fun watching the new guy put his "new" boots near the stove to dry them out, only to find a molten pile of rubber and leather 20 minutes later, stunk like hell but was always good for a laugh.


 built my own dbl barrel stove some years back. friend came home from work,,to ask que.. he damned near put his back right against the stove,,with a insulated coverall on!!! above three minutes later,,he jumped away from the stove,,and some smoke was coming off of his coverall!!!!!!!!!!! clown..said,, "I didn't think it was that hot"...yeah....


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## Dustyw (Feb 13, 2016)

Make great smokers also!


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## zogger (Feb 13, 2016)

Dustyw said:


> View attachment 485787
> View attachment 485788
> Make great smokers also!



Now that's a custom build, love it!


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## duckybud (Feb 14, 2016)

Son- in -law came in one morning with wet gloves, laid them on the top barrel and set down and fixed a cup of coffee. Before he got a drink, we had flames. Only did that once. Said wasn't going to stay long and wanted the gloves dry when he left, they were but a little hard to get on.


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## Ernie Kash (Feb 14, 2016)

Heated our old house for 17 years with a Sotz double set. Replaced the 1st set after 10 years, lined the lower with 4 rows of firebrick and ran flue damper. Had it set up in the basement with a sheet of tin suspended about 2 ft above it and about 2 ft below the overhead floor joists with a box fan hanging about 8ft away blowing at it on low speed. Have to admit it was probably one of the best rigs I've used. Put out lots of heat and I don't think you could ever overfuel it cause the upper drum dissipated so much heat. Just looked shaky as hell. Had Nationwide insurance and about 5 years into it a rep was at the house doing a spot check thing and saw my set up and freaked out...not a manufactured piece and not UL approved. After an assuring conversation he noted a woodstove of an unknown manufacturer on his paperwork and told me that if there was ever a fire caused by it that damages wouldn't be covered. But as I said I burn't it hard for 17 years without a problem.


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## alleyyooper (Feb 16, 2016)

I had a barrel stove in my shop 24x52 with 12 foot ceiling. I just bought the single kit for the legs and door added my own built to make it a double barrel. had a good layer of sand in the bottom. be 20 below zero when I would go out there and build a fire in it. go back in the house and make coffee and have a cup about a hour. go back out there and work in a t shirt.
A friend of mine still has one he uses he wrapped both barrels with soft copper tubing hung a couple big car radiators from the ceiling at both ends and fans. Boy that think is nice even made a manifold and used a old truck thermostat on the manifold to open and closes the draft.

Another friend made his out of a 250 gallon fuel oil tank for his lawn and garden shop.

*As for being a danger so is some people having access to matches and lighters. All warnings should be removed from equipment to stop them from breeding more of their kind. They some how have the ability to mess up a pop corn fart.*

 Al


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