# Best way to break in a chainsaw??



## MaddBomber (Apr 28, 2009)

What's the best way to break in a brandy new saw? Had this discussion a little while ago, and we could'nt agree. 
I personally have more experience with breaking in new top ends, and don't know if there is a big difference. 
I've only had 2 brand new saws (MS270, MS260 Pro), and both times i babied it for the first tank and a half...ish Then treated it like a chainsaw. No problems ever came of it.
Buddy tells me he babies his saw for 3 full tanks (owner's manual), then gradually treats it like a chainsaw.
My father says to just treat it like a chainsaw... made fun of me while breaking mine in.

Is there a solid method for breaking in a saw as quickly and efficiently as possible?


----------



## ironman_gq (Apr 28, 2009)

just dont run it wide open out of the wood until you get a tank or two through it then dont let it go wide open for more than a few seconds until it is completely broken in. The local dealer here takes care of the first part by running a tank through every saw they sell before they go on the shelf


----------



## huskystihl (Apr 28, 2009)

I run a-lot of new saw and just run em like the ones that are a couple years old which is the way I ran those when new. Just run em.


----------



## gregz (Apr 28, 2009)

The first few tanks through my ms460 (new in 07)were flush cutting big stumps. Didn't have time to baby it.
It has been used as a saw from day one. I do faithfully keep it clean as new
and it is a great saw


----------



## cjrenegade82 (Apr 28, 2009)

baby my saw, let it idle alot and just find small stuff to cut just to play with the new toy and break it in because when somthing comes up that has to be done I just run it like a saw to get the job done regardless of how new it is. my saw did not seem fully broke in until about 15 hours


----------



## gr8scott72 (Apr 28, 2009)

MaddBomber said:


> Is there a solid method for breaking in a saw as quickly and efficiently as possible?



Cut as much wood as you possible can.


----------



## GASoline71 (Apr 28, 2009)

Just go cut wood... seriously.

But make sure you soak your chains overnight first! :biggrinbounce2:

Gary


----------



## spacemule (Apr 28, 2009)

cjrenegade82 said:


> baby my saw, let it idle alot and just find small stuff to cut just to play with the new toy and break it in because when somthing comes up that has to be done I just run it like a saw to get the job done regardless of how new it is. my saw did not seem fully broke in until about 15 hours



Idling is not good for a new engine--it doesn't come up to proper break in temperature. The best way to break in a saw is run it like it was meant to be run--don't abuse it, but don't baby it.


----------



## Evan (Apr 28, 2009)

dont babied saws stay babied saws.

when building motocross bikes, my own and customeres we also broke them like we stole em. wide open all the time. let em cool off ounce inm awhile though and youl be good.


----------



## Dan_IN_MN (Apr 28, 2009)

<---------------------------------- Has special secrete breaking procedure. Send it to me with return postage and I'll send it back all broken in!
































No, seriously, run it. Machining now days is so much better than yester-year. Tolerances are closer, tooling is better, and Quality Control (QC) automated measuring machines or Concordant Measuring Machines (CMM's) that removes much of the human error. I don't know if it's done in the saw industry, but I know that the auto manufactures match pistons to the varying tolerances of the cylinder bore. Being able to match slightly different sized pistons to slightly different size bores removes a lot of variables. I mean we're talking in the tenths difference here. (.0001-.0009 for example) At least that is what Saturn in TN did when I was there a few year ago. A human hair is around .003-.004.

Dan


----------



## huskystihl (Apr 28, 2009)

GASoline71 said:


> Just go cut wood... seriously.
> 
> But make sure you soak your chains overnight first! :biggrinbounce2:
> 
> Gary



That was a good one but you forgot to tell him which oil works best when breaking the saw in. Your slippin!


----------



## whitedogone (Apr 28, 2009)

GASoline71 said:


> Just go cut wood... seriously.
> 
> But make sure you soak your chains overnight first! :biggrinbounce2:
> 
> Gary




So what would you soak "em in Gary......... OIL?


----------



## stinkbait (Apr 28, 2009)

My uncle once got a v-8 totally built for performance from the block up. The guy that built it said run it like you stole it, if it don't blow right away then your good.


----------



## indiansprings (Apr 28, 2009)

I agree run it like you stole it, saws are made to run wide open, I have broke in all my saws and string trimmers that way with no issues. Stihl white bottle mix with 2 gals of AV gas, and give it hell, if it's going to break, break it under warranty.


----------



## edisto (Apr 28, 2009)

MaddBomber said:


> What's the best way to break in a brandy new saw?



If you can't find an open window, try picking the lock.


----------



## Jtheo (Apr 28, 2009)

This will come down to opinion in most cases.

My first new Sachs Dolmar 112 in 1986 had a break in period in the instruction manual. The saws were running 25:1 then, and it was recommended to run a bit heavier on oil for several tanks of fuel mix. If I can find that manual I will post the exact instructions.
I followed the instructions, and that saw still had 150 lbs of compression when I sold it last year. Sorry I did, but that's another story.

When I got a new Dolmar 7900. Low and behold, no break in period, no run heavy on oil mix. Could that be fear of the dreaded EPA. DON'T TELL THEM TO DO THAT. IT WILL SMOKE.

I broke that saw in with 32:1 and a little richer on the carb for 10 tanks, and was careful about revving the saw out of the cut.

But that's just me.:greenchainsaw:


----------



## Boogieman142 (Apr 28, 2009)

I go easy on mine for a bit, not cause of the motor, but because of the clutch.


----------



## stone69er (Apr 29, 2009)

Warm it up,and run it like a saw should be run,just dont load it up.


----------



## Stihl Does It (Apr 29, 2009)

stone69er said:


> Warm it up,and run it like a saw should be run,just dont load it up.



Bingo

Use the Mfg. 2 stroke mix recommendations (use mfg or other top qual. 2 cycle oil) and run the saw like you normally would, avoiding hi revs for several tanks of fuel. Give the saw a workout, albiet avoiding the full open throttle, and allow the saw to break-in over the course of an hour or two of use.


----------



## rxe (Apr 29, 2009)

I'd let it warm up a bit before cutting, and I'd avoid doing ridiculous cuts on the first tank if possible. 

I wouldn't take a brand new saw milling as its first outing...but I would be content to cut up a tree in my normal enthusiastic fashion....


----------



## oneoldbanjo (Apr 29, 2009)

I break my new saws in by using them normally - however I avoid cutting anything that will have the bar buried for any extended time. I try to do lots of cutting smaller stuff that gets the saw on and off the throttle repeatedly.


----------



## buzz sawyer (Apr 29, 2009)

GASoline71 said:


> Just go cut wood... seriously.
> 
> But make sure you soak your chains overnight first! :biggrinbounce2:
> 
> Gary



And soak the fuel in oil as well - not much, just enough to coat it. 2.6 oz of oil will adequately coat one gallon of fuel.


----------



## peter399 (Apr 29, 2009)

MaddBomber said:


> What's the best way to break in a brandy new saw? Had this discussion a little while ago, and we could'nt agree.
> I personally have more experience with breaking in new top ends, and don't know if there is a big difference.
> I've only had 2 brand new saws (MS270, MS260 Pro), and both times i babied it for the first tank and a half...ish Then treated it like a chainsaw. No problems ever came of it.
> Buddy tells me he babies his saw for 3 full tanks (owner's manual), then gradually treats it like a chainsaw.
> ...




I'll join your father's team. Use it normally from the beginning. A chainsaw throttle only has 2 positions, fully open or fully closed


----------



## blis (Apr 29, 2009)

spacemule said:


> Idling is not good for a new engine--it doesn't come up to proper break in temperature. The best way to break in a saw is run it like it was meant to be run--don't abuse it, but don't baby it.



:agree2:

To break in any motor well it needs couple things.. First of all, it needs to get warm enough. Second and probaply most important thing is enough load (aka make it work hard) and variable load to ensure best seating of piston rings.. Also proper cooldown before shutting it down is important...

One of the easiest ways to ruin new engine is not to run it hard enough which means that you will have brand new engine that has less compression than old workhorses...


----------



## saxman (Apr 29, 2009)

I just recently broke in my new MS660. I used fresh 93 gas with the white bottle stihl oil. I warmed the saw up before putting a load on it for a minute or so then held her WIDE open in the cuts. After some long cuts I would let her idle for a short time and cool out. Ran about 2 gallon of fuel through it during the day. I have done the same procedure in the past with my 361 and 441 and so far nothing has been hanging out of the block.



Steve


----------



## Stihlman441 (Apr 29, 2009)

The last three saws i got were new 260,441,660 the dealer puts fuel and oil in them and run them,out of wood to check and tune,they dont much around wide open.So before you get hold of your new baby think about what the dealer will do to it first.


MS260
MS441
MS660
MS880 (NEXT ONE)


----------



## gr8scott72 (Apr 29, 2009)

Stihlman441 said:


> The last three saws i got were new 260,441,660 the dealer puts fuel and oil in them and run them,out of wood to check and tune,they dont much around wide open.So before you get hold of your new baby think about what the dealer will do to it first.



Ordered mine off internet. Bone dry. Never had fuel in it before I got it.


----------



## BobL (Apr 29, 2009)

gregz said:


> The first few tanks through my ms460 (new in 07)were flush cutting big stumps. Didn't have time to baby it.
> It has been used as a saw from day one. I do faithfully keep it clean as new
> and it is a great saw



That is interesting to hear about as flush cutting big stumps is fairly hard on saws as being so close to the ground on one side the air does not flow quite as freely as a saw that is held upright away from the ground. I have heard of more than one tired saw being run on the lean side seizing when flush cutting. Keeping it clean certianly helps


----------



## MS460WOODCHUCK (Apr 29, 2009)

I just beat it like it is a red headed step child with a big mouth. That way it knows I'm boss right from the get go! Running at idle and cutting twigs is a joke IMO.


----------



## GASoline71 (Apr 30, 2009)

blis said:


> :agree2:
> 
> To break in any motor well it needs couple things.. First of all, it needs to get warm enough. Second and probaply most important thing is enough load (aka make it work hard) and variable load to ensure best seating of piston rings.. Also proper cooldown before shutting it down is important...
> 
> One of the easiest ways to ruin new engine is not to run it hard enough which means that you will have brand new engine that has less compression than old workhorses...



Great post!

Gary


----------



## K7NUT (Apr 30, 2009)

Evan said:


> dont babied saws stay babied saws.
> 
> when building motocross bikes, my own and customeres we also broke them like we stole em. wide open all the time. let em cool off ounce inm awhile though and youl be good.



Thats the same thing I heard with street bikes?
If your going to race it, break it in like your racing, or it won't performe!
It's like cylinders develope memories


----------



## ironman_gq (Apr 30, 2009)

they do if you glaze em over same with rings too. Running em hard only loosens em up a bit more. with a new engine everything is tight so there is a lot more friction in a new engine as opposed to one that is broke in. I still wont run em too hard when new but I dont baby em either I still expect em to work hard without complaints


----------



## matty f (Apr 30, 2009)

I disagree ,for years i ran all my saws hard out the box 3120's 046's 020's 038's the list could go on and was lucky to get 2 years usually a year out of them.
4 years ago i brought a 357 xpg and ran it in to operators manual instructions and this saw is used daily is still going strong, before with some of my old 262's i could only get 8 months out of them! i break in all my saws now...not babying them but just keeping them off peak revs for 4 tanks of fuel then run them hard....its pretty difficult keeping your finger off the trigger and some times it does slip but to me its been worth the patience.


----------



## GASoline71 (Apr 30, 2009)

Hmm... "broke in" every saw I have ever owned hard... Still usin' them to this day on the same P&C, no probs... some are over 10 years old.

Gary


----------



## gregz (Apr 30, 2009)

blis said:


> :agree2:
> 
> To break in any motor well it needs couple things.. First of all, it needs to get warm enough. Second and probaply most important thing is enough load (aka make it work hard) and variable load to ensure best seating of piston rings.. Also proper cooldown before shutting it down is important...
> 
> One of the easiest ways to ruin new engine is not to run it hard enough which means that you will have brand new engine that has less compression than old workhorses...



Yup.. i know it's only a 460 but if i forget the decomp when cold it reminds me.. My saw is clean as a whistle but it's been beat on,and runs like champ. thought about selling it one time but just too good of a saw.
Buy em new cut wood!!


----------



## Ironbark (Apr 30, 2009)

Not sure where I stumbled upon this link, but it makes for interesting reading:

www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I run them hard from new, but vary the engine speed for the first few tanks.


----------



## zaasman (Apr 30, 2009)

Very interesting thread, great timing for me as I'm just breakin in a new 260. Based on this, think I'll just have at it.

The only real point Stihl makes is to avoid "full throttle off load" for the first 3 tanks, but doesn't say anything about going easy. These manuals are so chock full of other warnings regarding potential damage, so I take the minimal "off load" note to mean even Stihl recommends just using the saw like it's a saw.


----------



## MS460WOODCHUCK (Apr 30, 2009)

GASoline71 said:


> Hmm... "broke in" every saw I have ever owned hard... Still usin' them to this day on the same P&C, no probs... some are over 10 years old.
> 
> Gary



Must be that speacial lube u use!


----------



## Michaelmj11 (Aug 20, 2015)

Ok, this is my first post, and before I get too far, allow me to say that I am NOT a gear-head/mechanic, I know Nothing (well mostly nothing) about motors/engines.

I have owned 2... well 3 as of yesterday.... all 3 Stihl's a ms170, ms391, ms661.

I was reading over this post because the ms391 "blew up", I belive is the phrase I have seen used, after 2 months of use. By blew up I mean it lost all compression, and basically needed a whole engine rebuild. Stihl said it was due to improper use (I was using it to mill an oak that was 18-20 inches wide), anyways it worked out where Stihl replaced the parts, but I get to pay for the labor, except the Stihl certified mechanic working on fixing it has broken 2 pistons and is waiting to hear back from Stihl about what the heck is going on (this has been going on for 7 months, since February).

So, yesterday I finally had enough waiting, and purchased a ms661. So to make a long story short, to say that I would like to AVOID a repeat of the ms391 problem(s) is putting it lightly.

So I am intending to follow:


blis said:


> :agree2:
> 
> To break in any motor well it needs couple things.. First of all, it needs to get warm enough. Second and probaply most important thing is enough load (aka make it work hard) and variable load to ensure best seating of piston rings.. Also proper cooldown before shutting it down is important...
> 
> One of the easiest ways to ruin new engine is not to run it hard enough which means that you will have brand new engine that has less compression than old workhorses...



But am quite curious about:


GASoline71 said:


> Just go cut wood... seriously.
> 
> But make sure you soak your chains overnight first! :biggrinbounce2:
> 
> Gary



So.... beyond what BLIS said, any other suggestions, and what is up with soaking the chains? I get the feeling that this is just a joke that I am not comprehending. ...?


Oh yah, my intention is to be cutting harder stuff as in the Hardest wood native to North America, Osage Orange (Bodock/Bois d'arc); as well as some oak and maple.


----------



## minermike (Aug 20, 2015)

stinkbait said:


> My uncle once got a v-8 totally built for performance from the block up. The guy that built it said run it like you stole it, if it don't blow right away then your good.


 I must side with stinkbait. I have built hundreds of motors of all kinds. If the machine work is solid, the dog is ready to hunt. A new saw is a machinests work of art, and should be run like intended from the start. If it isn't, lets hope it blows in the first year. Keep them clean,run good gas, and gear them up. NOW WERE CUTTING-----MIKE


----------



## Michaelmj11 (Aug 20, 2015)

minermike said:


> I must side with stinkbait. I have built hundreds of motors of all kinds. If the machine work is solid, the dog is ready to hunt. A new saw is a machinests work of art, and should be run like intended from the start. If it isn't, lets hope it blows in the first year. Keep them clean,run good gas, and gear them up. NOW WERE CUTTING-----MIKE



Any thoughts about the soaking the chain overnight?


----------



## quotejso2 (Aug 20, 2015)

man u had two month old saw blow up and u didnt get a new free one u got screwed u shoulda lied about what u were cutting.


----------



## minermike (Aug 20, 2015)

Michaelmj11 said:


> Any thoughts about the soaking the chain overnight?


 We soaked the chain for my wifes hot saw in prolong for a week or so. Don't know if it helped or not. Did a 10.6 in a 30 in sugar pine log last weekend . I think it was the nitro that helped the most-----mike


----------



## Michaelmj11 (Aug 20, 2015)

quotejso2 said:


> man u had two month old saw blow up and u didnt get a new free one u got screwed u shoulda lied about what u were cutting.



Well I basically got a new saw, or at least the innards of one, and like I said the mechanic is a friend so I'm not complaining about that so much as how Stupidly long it is taking to get fixed... (and as for lying well the place I was harvesting the trees from is about 1/4 mile from the Stihl shop, and the shop guys really went to bat for me, the decisions were made by Stihl corp......)

But yah I was rather surprised myself at not getting a new saw, especially when the explanation I was given was that "the saw overheated when it was gapping"......
Once (if it IS ever fixed) the shop owners are going to help me sell it, so.... Yah it is what it is.


----------



## quotejso2 (Aug 20, 2015)

So ur paying for labor?


----------



## Michaelmj11 (Aug 20, 2015)

quotejso2 said:


> So ur paying for labor?



Yah, not exactly happy that Stihl isn't, but at this stage it is what it is.


----------



## Derf (Aug 20, 2015)

Michaelmj11 said:


> Ok, this is my first post, and before I get too far, allow me to say that I am NOT a gear-head/mechanic, I know Nothing (well mostly nothing) about motors/engines.
> 
> I have owned 2... well 3 as of yesterday.... all 3 Stihl's a ms170, ms391, ms661.
> 
> ...



That's quite a long first post. Welcome to the Chainsaw forum of AS, aka the loony bin. 

Yup, opinions differ on break in. I am definitely in the "use it" camp as opposed to the multiple start-up,idle,shut-down routine. A saw runs at full throttle, so there isn't much you can do about variable throttle, but you can adjust the load by how big the tree, how hard the wood. Your milling experience on the ms391 is indicative of "heavy" load. Don't do that. But for a 661 you're in a whole new league. Cut anything up to 32" across (how big is your bar?). 

Soak the chains just because the joke is Stihl saws are stingy oilers. Really it won't help anything soaking them.


----------



## quotejso2 (Aug 20, 2015)

well geta husky next time


----------



## Derf (Aug 20, 2015)

Also, regarding your blown up saw... A 65cc saw usually sports a 20" bar. They are fine to cut up to 24" if the oiler will output that much, but they are at the end of their power there. Milling an 18"-20" log is really putting a strain on the motor. Don't mill with little saws. Glad you got the 661 if you plan to do milling work.


----------



## Michaelmj11 (Aug 20, 2015)

Derf said:


> That's quite a long first post. Welcome to the Chainsaw forum of AS, aka the loony bin.
> 
> Yup, opinions differ on break in. I am definitely in the "use it" camp as opposed to the multiple start-up,idle,shut-down routine. A saw runs at full throttle, so there isn't much you can do about variable throttle, but you can adjust the load by how big the tree, how hard the wood. Your milling experience on the ms391 is indicative of "heavy" load. Don't do that. But for a 661 you're in a whole new league. Cut anything up to 32" across (how big is your bar?).
> 
> Soak the chains just because the joke is Stihl saws are stingy oilers. Really it won't help anything soaking them.



I got a 36" on the 661 but have every intention of just selling the powerhead from the 391 and keeping the 20" and 4 chains from it.


----------



## Michaelmj11 (Aug 20, 2015)

Derf said:


> Also, regarding your blown up saw... A 65cc saw usually sports a 20" bar. They are fine to cut up to 24" if the oiler will output that much, but they are at the end of their power there. Milling an 18"-20" log is really putting a strain on the motor. Don't mill with little saws. Glad you got the 661 if you plan to do milling work.



Yep, live and learn


----------



## Derf (Aug 20, 2015)

If you keep a 20" on it you should step it up from a 7-pin sprocket to an 8-pin.


----------



## HarleyT (Aug 20, 2015)

Actually back then there were a couple of nuts that soaked their new chains prior to using, or at least said so.


----------



## Michaelmj11 (Aug 20, 2015)

Derf said:


> If you keep a 20" on it you should step it up from a 7-pin sprocket to an 8-pin.



I had noticed that, and was going to ask the Shop guys this, but would the 8 pin work for both 20" and 36", and if not, IS there a sprocket that would work for both?


----------



## Derf (Aug 20, 2015)

Use a 7-tooth on the 36, and an 8-tooth on the 20. The 7 will give you more torque for big wood, the 8 more speed through small wood when you don't need the torque. No, no common sprocket, but they are only like $3

Also, pick up a spare c-clip in case you lose the one holding the sprocket on changing it.


----------



## quotejso2 (Aug 20, 2015)

Michaelmj11 said:


> I had noticed that, and was going to ask the Shop guys this, but would the 8 pin work for both 20" and 36", and if not, IS there a sprocket that would work for both?


just leave the one you got it will be fine like he said people are cuckoo on here


----------



## Michaelmj11 (Aug 20, 2015)

quotejso2 said:


> well geta husky next time



In my first post I neglected to mention the Husky I have (or what is left of it after my dad melted it while cutting a 6" pine tree....) granted it is a smaller Husky but still.... it ..... melted.... the ms170 can go through 6" Osage Orange, the chain isn't happy about it, but it will get the job done.


----------



## Kristiano (Sep 16, 2016)

Husq manual: 
Running-in
Avoid running at a too high speed for extended periods
during the first 10 hours.

Checking chain lubrication • Check the chain lubrication each time you refuel. 
Aim the tip of the bar at a light coloured surface about 20 cm (8 inches) away. After 1 minute running at 3/4 throttle you should see a distinct line of oil on the light surface.

Engine (autotune) adjustment
The following steps should be taken when the chain saw
is started for the first time or when outside circumstances
change (fuel, altitude, air filter etc.): Start the engine.
Accelerate the engine to full throttle and saw a number of
cuts in a thick log (3-5 min.).
The chain saw must be run (8,000 - 12,000 rpm) the entire
time so that the carburettor can adjust itself.

Mixing ratio
1:50 (2%) with HUSQVARNA two-stroke oil.
1:33 (3%) with oils class JASO FB or ISO EGB formulated
for air-cooled, two-stroke engines.


So i understood from these sentences i should run in new Husq 555 using maybe little richer oil mixture, avoiding too high revs for 10 hour and trough all this break in period being extra careful about using sharp, well oiled, regulated chain; but still using it for normal work as to adjust the autotune carb. For this i will work with avarage - small size logs and avoiding revving the saw without load.


----------



## blsnelling (Sep 23, 2016)

Tune it a couple hundred RPMs rich and GO CUT WOOD!


----------



## mark2496 (Sep 23, 2016)

Having only had three brand new saws in my life I've never even thought about a break in period, just ran them like a saw. The 25 year old 026 still runs but it doesn't see alot of use, my 19 year old 257 still runs good and gets used quite a bit. Time will tell with the month old 562xp.


----------



## 7sleeper (Sep 23, 2016)

Todays production techniques are so good that run in is way overrated. The power output difference between "careful run in" and just "run and use em" is marginal. Most users will never notice any difference. Marginal power variances are much more often normal in production cycles. 

7


----------



## Full Chisel (Sep 23, 2016)

blsnelling said:


> Tune it a couple hundred RPMs rich and GO CUT WOOD!



Ding ding ding! Tune it to where it still 4 strokes a bit in the cut and let 'er rip, tater chip!


----------



## 7sleeper (Sep 23, 2016)

blsnelling said:


> Tune it a couple hundred RPMs rich and GO CUT WOOD!





Full Chisel said:


> Ding ding ding! Tune it to where it still 4 strokes a bit in the cut and let 'er rip, tater chip!


 Tune a autotune saw?!?!

7


----------



## blsnelling (Sep 23, 2016)

OP didn't mention the model.


----------



## cedarhollow (Jan 31, 2017)

I'm a newby just learning about saws but have rebuilt outboards since 1989 and as a rule with them I would always use double oil for first 10 to 20 hours, with cast pistons I would idle for 1 hour with goosing it a bit every 15 minutes or so then run it with forged/wiseco pistons I would Idle for at least 3 hours with some slight goosing every now and then to clear out excess oil buildup, then run easy under a load for a couple/few hours then take it out, get boat on a plane and vari the throttle for next few hours or so. The forged pistons swell when you hit the throttle and have to be bored aprox 0.001" over on a 3.5" bore. I have been boring and honing blocks since 1992 and only had one motor go bad and it was for a wannabe commercial fisherman. But my business was built selling to commercial crabbers cuz my motors would last twice as long as a new stock motor according to the crabbers.
I don't know how much of this 2 cycle stuff pertains to chainsaws but I learn something new every day


----------



## CR888 (Jan 31, 2017)

I could not think of a worse way to break in any piston/cylinder than do as stated above idling engine for first hour. For good break in the window of opportunity is quite small. After a brief warm up, you want to create as much pressure as you can to get the best ring seal. Its gas pressure that seats rings and letting a engine idle won't endorce the conditions for good ring seal. Lots of wives tales on this subject have been published and passed down over the years. Its really quite simple when understood properly.


----------



## cedarhollow (Jan 31, 2017)

Thats what a lot of experienced saw guys are saying to richen high side of carb a bit let saw warm a minute then get to cutting with sharp chain and clean filter. Does that sound right?


----------



## TBS (Jan 31, 2017)

As said before tune the saw a little rich and run it, most saws aren't broke in until you run more than a few tanks through them. My 543xp needed ten tanks to fully seat the rings.


----------



## SeMoTony (Jan 31, 2017)

Michaelmj11 said:


> I had noticed that, and was going to ask the Shop guys this, but would the 8 pin work for both 20" and 36", and if not, IS there a sprocket that would work for both?


8 pin for the shorter bar to make the best use of the available power. 36' bar in a 27" cut milling would over strain with an 8 pin sprocket IMHO. I have run 7 pin on ms-460 mmed with a 60" bar, but at that time it was spinning a loop of skip chain which cleared the chips better than standard ripping chain. Mill safe & enjoy. Oh yeah the time I used the 460 with 60" bar is shown in my avatar.


----------



## cedarhollow (Jan 31, 2017)

I just built my first saw, a 044, replaced block, crank bearings seals went to 52mm piston/cylinder. poped on first pull of cord started on second pull, I shut it down after just a few seconds till I get bar and chain on it. It felt good. Ive got some mature dead ash that needs makin into firewood, will give it a good workout.


----------



## Jtheo (May 7, 2021)

I just bought a new 372XP C torq. The owners manual says to go easy on the saw for the first 10 hours. I always go by the owners manual on a new saw, and have never had any trouble with one. I have broken in a bunch seeing as how I bought my first one, a Sachs Dolmar new in 1987.


----------



## Jasonrkba (May 7, 2021)

Now thats an old thread.


----------



## Jtheo (May 7, 2021)

Jasonrkba said:


> Now thats an old thread.


True, but I just bought the 372XP X Torq yesterday. Break in reccomendations seem to change with newer saws.


----------



## TBS (May 7, 2021)

My suggestion was going to be hit it with a 16lb sledge, but then I saw that he said break in not break.


----------



## Jasonrkba (May 8, 2021)

I run them like the rest. I use stihl HP ultra.


----------



## SimonHS (May 8, 2021)

I'm surprised that no-one mentioned using mineral oil mix for the first tank or two, to help bed the rings in, and then switch to synthetic oil mix.


----------



## edisto (May 8, 2021)

SimonHS said:


> I'm surprised that no-one mentioned using mineral oil mix for the first tank or two, to help bed the rings in, and then switch to synthetic oil mix.



Probably because it wasn't the only break-in thread going at the time. There was this one too:






New P&C Break in Period


I have heard many different things about breaking in a new P&C, but today was something a bit different: At the local shop I was told that you should not run any synthetic and or synthetic blend oil through your saw for at least the first 10 tanks of gas! I was also told that you should...




www.arboristsite.com





And these a couple of years later if you are a glutton for punishment:






Breaking in new rings


What is your guys standard procedure for breaking in a new ring or new piston and ring? Coat it in oil for assembly then let er rip, right? Don't fully rev it with no load and you're good to go.




www.arboristsite.com










Lubrication prior to running a rebuilt saw?


Hi all, I was wondering if before starting up a saw that was torn apart and rebuilt (so very very clean), it was required to lubricate the crank, cylinder, and anything else so that you don't burn it up, like running a 4 cycle with no oil. Obviously, I've never torn a saw apart, so I...




www.arboristsite.com


----------

