# giant red oak, slabbing out and cutting for boat lumber



## Windward (Jan 22, 2009)

I have a giant red oak trunk (and some large branches) that came down in hurricane Ike. Before I made a long horizontal cut (with a Stihl 441, 42" bar) the trunk was about 3' square at its smallest dimension. Now it is in two pieces. Let's say everything is about 16' long, both trunk and branches. 

The big half of the trunk is about 3' thick, and usually about 40" wide but some of the branch stubs make it as much as 80" wide.
The little half of the trunk is about 2' thick and usually about 36" wide but going out to about 60" wide where the brance stubs are.

My objectives are these:

1) slab out some big pieces that can be sold or used by myself for furniture projects (but I have done none of this before). My question about this is: is it necessary to have the grain straight running along in the face of a slab for it to be a good slab? Is that even very likely to be possible because the grain in this tree may run in different directions in different places. I estimate this tree was about 73 years old when it blew down.

2) cut some boat-building lumber, in other words - not straight (and that is on purpose, because most boat pieces are not straight). The idea is to cut elbows, knees, and thwarts (all of those having grain that goes at an angle, like where a branch come off a trunk) and also to cut some stems and keels in a single piece. The idea of getting a stem and keel in a single piece is to cut a section of trunk to form the keel (remember, this is about 16' long) and also the stub where a branch comes off (this will make the stem, the part of the boat at the front where the keel curves upward at the bow. To clarify, to cut those "two" pieces as a single piece that runs straight for a while but then makes a curve. (This might be about perfect size for a good small rowboat/motorboat).

I reckon 2" thick is the thickest I can cut and get proper air drying, right?

I hope to cut the pieces so they will not need to be straighted (or bent) to achieve the parts I want. 

I have about 3 boat designs I am considering so I hope to get a stem + keel and, if it needs bending, steam bend it to correct shape while the wood is still "green" (although I have read some posts that caution the wood will always be in tension, even after bent - right? is that the same for steam bent?)

Finally, I have a big chunk of three branches, 3'9" length, 2' wide at the bottom, most of the mass of the chunk going into two branch stubs, making a "v" shape. Those branch stubs measure 1' 6" across and 1' across. Then there is a smaller branch stub coming off near the 2' wide bottom that is 8' across. I can see the center of the heartwood in each of the branches, and I can see two centers of heartwood (am I saying that right?) in the bottom where it is 2' wide, although both of those centers a) close to each other - about 4", and b) not at the center of the big mass, but about 1/3 over to the side.

I'm wondering if this might be a good chunk to cut into a slab for something decorative, like a table top, or to cut into basically v-shaped elbows and knees for more of that boat frame. Suggestions will be valued.

That first big cut long-ways through the log was difficult (but turned out surprisingly straight for a free-hand cut). That brand new Stihl 441 magnum really did its job - I love that saw - but it was a very long cut in some very hard wood.
So I am seriously considering taking this stuff to someone (yet undetermined) up north of Houston (where the woods are) who has a sawmill - I found a list. That make sense to you?

Thanks for any help. 

Windward.


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## lobsta1 (Jan 23, 2009)

Red Oak is a very, very poor choice for any boat project. Especially structual members in the bilge. Don't know the technical terms, but essentially the fibers are hollow like a bunch of small straws. They just suck in water & then rot sets in. White Oak on the other hand does not have this problem & is an excellent wood for your purpose. Plus, it takes to steam bending well.
Al


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## Inspired by God (Jan 25, 2009)

*Red Oak ain't for boats*

Please excuse the vernacular, but red oak when treated can be used for a boat but the trouble you have to go through to make it sea-worthy isn't't worth it. Red oak on the other hand makes wonderful indoor furniture.If you could Quater saw some of it, I'm sure it would be some of the most beautiful wood you have ever seen. Be sure to dry it thoroughly though. Red oak can twist, cup and warp along with the best of them. A good rule to remember when air drying is 1 year per inch of thickness and always cut it at least 1/2" thicker than the board you want to end up with. Before making any furniture from it make sure the moisture is down to around 6% to 8% Slabs as you call them are nice, but if they include the core, will not air dry very well. The core is like a very densely packed group of cells and when the pressure that holds them together is released, they almost explode in all directions (crack, split and check). Make sure you paint the ends of the boards. this helps the boards dry more uniformly. I hope some of this helps. 


May God smile on all your endeavors
Tim Padfield


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## stan v (Jan 25, 2009)

Windward, that red oak will have to be coated with epoxy to withstand the rigors of being in water........wooden boats down here just don't hold up like they do in cold climates without being protected.


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