# Using Bee's Wax



## TNTreeHugger (Apr 19, 2022)

... on lot's of stuff!

What I have are two antique walking sticks I rescued from the barn along with a wood carving I did about 25 years ago, but never "finished" and a few others my boyfriend made.

What I'm using is called Master Paste Original and it's a wax based medium used with encaustic painting.
This is the creator of the stuff and his Pinterest page.








37 Antonin Sedlacik ideas | painting, art, abstract city


Feb 9, 2015 - Explore Antonin Sedlacik's board "Antonin Sedlacik" on Pinterest. See more ideas about painting, art, abstract city.




www.pinterest.ca





Not sure what's in it besides "bee's wax and other natural ingredients" but it does have citrus in it and smells wonderful.

I applied it with a small pallet knife then slowly melted it into the wood with a heat gun.

Anyone else use wax to seal/preserve their wood carvings?
How well does it hold up? Any issues with it?

I've already posted pics of the walking sticks in another thread.
here's the carving I did before and after wax


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## TNTreeHugger (Apr 19, 2022)

Got another one finished...


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## Woodslasher (Apr 24, 2022)

A few years ago I rubbed bee's wax on a tomahawk head and haft and melted it in to both with a mini torch. The head is still slightly waxy and water repellent but I replaced the haft for some reason so I don't know how it held up. I do know this, waxed items will have dust kinda stick to them, so if there's cracks and crevasses it'll be hard to get them clean.


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## pdqdl (Apr 24, 2022)

If your goal is a natural finish of some sort, I'd consider linseed oil. Tung oil is more popular and a bit higher priced.

I think wax of sorts is preferred on wood finishes, but I'm pretty sure that is a very thin wax film on a harder finish done first.


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## TNTreeHugger (Apr 24, 2022)

pdqdl said:


> If your goal is a natural finish of some sort, I'd consider linseed oil. Tung oil is more popular and a bit higher priced.
> 
> I think wax of sorts is preferred on wood finishes, but I'm pretty sure that is a very thin wax film on a harder finish done first.


Have you used any of those?


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## pdqdl (Apr 24, 2022)

Linseed oil, yes. It used to be the treatment of preference for rifle stocks. Polyurethane furniture varnish came out many years ago, and other modern varnishes have largely replaced the oil finishes. Still, the old finishes are believed by many to provide a superior appearance of the wood grain.

You might also end up unhappy with the finish, since the oil finishes need to dry for an extended time, and they also rely on a bit of buffing to shine up well. #600 steel wool, as I recall, to smooth them out and allow a mirror finish. Your carving probably wouldn't work out too well with that effort.

I'd experiment. There's a lot to be said for polyurethane varnish, too. Your wax treatment will probably foul a polyurethane varnish, and maybe the oil finishes. Polyurethane doesn't like oily wood, and I'll bet wax treatments really screw it up.


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## TNTreeHugger (Apr 24, 2022)

pdqdl said:


> Linseed oil, yes. It used to be the treatment of preference for rifle stocks. Polyurethane furniture varnish came out many years ago, and other modern varnishes have largely replaced the oil finishes. Still, the old finishes are believed by many to provide a superior appearance of the wood grain.
> 
> You might also end up unhappy with the finish, since the oil finishes need to dry for an extended time, and they also rely on a bit of buffing to shine up well. #600 steel wool, as I recall, to smooth them out and allow a mirror finish. Your carving probably wouldn't work out too well with that effort.
> 
> I'd experiment. There's a lot to be said for polyurethane varnish, too. Your wax treatment will probably foul a polyurethane varnish, and maybe the oil finishes. Polyurethane doesn't like oily wood, and I'll bet wax treatments really screw it up.


I appreciate the suggestions for alternatives to the bee's wax, but that's not what I was looking for.
I'm familiar with polyurethane, linseed oil, and others I've used before.
I was just wondering if anyone else likes to use the bee's wax. Guess not-so-much. 

I'm real happy with how my woodcarvings finished up.
I literally boiled the wax into the wood with the heat, so there is zero residue on the surface.
LOVE the way it feels - so warm, smooth, soft and silky. Feels alive - and smells delicious. 

I have the canes listed on ebay. Found another old bamboo cane yesterday. Looking forward to seeing how that finished up.

I would love to see photos of the wood gun stocks you made.


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## pdqdl (Apr 24, 2022)

Never took pictures of them. That was before there was a such thing as a digital camera, anyway. 
Well... Maybe not if you include NASA and their lunar pictures. I don't know when they started digitizing.


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## TNTreeHugger (Apr 24, 2022)

pdqdl said:


> Never took pictures of them. That was before there was a such thing as a digital camera, anyway.
> Well... Maybe not if you include NASA and their lunar pictures. I don't know when they started digitizing.


You got rid of the guns?


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## pdqdl (Apr 24, 2022)

That was about 45 years ago.


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## TNTreeHugger (Apr 24, 2022)

pdqdl said:


> That was about 45 years ago.


And...? 

I still have this oil (using boiled linseed oil) on distressed wood I made 55 years ago.
A friends grandmother gave us girls art lessons during the summer. 
I remember it like it was yesterday. 
So much fun smacking that wood with a hammer.  I need to make another one.


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## pdqdl (Apr 24, 2022)

I prefer to leave such personal content unpublished.

You'll probably never be able to find me espousing my personal views on religion, firearms, and not really too much on my personal politics, despite my frequent visits into the P&R forum. I also don't relate very many details about my personal life.

Here's a pic or two, as close as I can come right now to woodworking and finishing. This is old stuff I did a long time ago.







I never had any patience for carving, nor any desire, either. I did hand carve the marquetry on the ends of the hourglass, but that's pretty much 2 dimensional. I was a decent hand at machining in wood, however.

There are no stains on any of that wood, by the way. The walnut came from a Missouri tree, and these pieces were made from the lumber I generated. I bought the maple and ebony, though.
That polyurethane is standing up pretty good for being over 40 years old, eh?


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## pdqdl (Apr 25, 2022)

TNTreeHugger said:


> ...
> I was just wondering if anyone else likes to use the bee's wax. Guess not-so-much.


I've never tried beeswax as a finish. I have a more than ample supply, however. My beehive got started late last summer, and it is doing great now. Damn... Need to check for mites 'n other problems. Haven't checked them for a while.



TNTreeHugger said:


> ...LOVE the way it feels - so warm, smooth, soft and silky. Feels alive - and smells delicious.


 
Real beeswax does smell marvelous and it does keep it's scent for a long time. I don't think it will last more than a few months on the walking stick, but it sure will be easy to freshen the coating.


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## FabianRW (Apr 25, 2022)

Use boiled linseed for handles. With beeswax use pure turpentine to thin. My favourite mix for woodworking is beeswax with a little boiled linseed added to create a vaseline-consistency paste.
Raw linseed is good for food items but not for exterior use, it forms a peeling black layer in full sunlight but boiled does not.

The strength of the handle is going to be lowered in time if it ever gets too dry, beetle holes are a sign an old handle could break because it has dry rot. The wax needs to be quite thin to soak right in whereas boiled linseed just goes in and stays in better, so you'd ideally put that on first and maintain say once a year with that.
Or use thinner wax first and then use a thicker wax mix over to repel water, which would need to be maintained with thinned wax every few years and then thick wax added again. Blo is just quicker and simpler because making up batches of suitable beeswax just right is time consuming and has an element of extreme danger when melting the highly flammable wax and pouring thin into trays to make flakes for thinning (turpentine obviously should never be heated).

You can use oil then thick wax at first but for maintenance you'd have to use thinned wax then only wax, so just oil is easier.


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## TNTreeHugger (Apr 25, 2022)

FabianRW said:


> Use boiled linseed for handles. With beeswax use pure turpentine to thin. My favourite mix for woodworking is beeswax with a little boiled linseed added to create a vaseline-consistency paste.
> Raw linseed is good for food items but not for exterior use, it forms a peeling black layer in full sunlight but boiled does not.
> 
> The strength of the handle is going to be lowered in time if it ever gets too dry, beetle holes are a sign an old handle could break because it has dry rot. The wax needs to be quite thin to soak right in whereas boiled linseed just goes in and stays in better, so you'd ideally put that on first and maintain say once a year with that.
> ...


Exactly the kind of reply I was hoping for, Thank You so much for that information.
The beeswax I have comes in tins already in a paste consistency, so it's easy to apply.
I also have solid cakes of beeswax - If I understand your instructions correctly, I can slice off small pieces, heat-soften those, and then make a spreadable paste by adding turpentine?
I have a warming tray I bought to use with my encaustic painting, and I have lots of beeswax on hand... that's why I'm using that ant not the linseed oil, which I don't have.

Thanks again for your info.


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## TNTreeHugger (Apr 25, 2022)

pdqdl said:


> I've never tried beeswax as a finish. I have a more than ample supply, however. My beehive got started late last summer, and it is doing great now. Damn... Need to check for mites 'n other problems. Haven't checked them for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> Real beeswax does smell marvelous and it does keep it's scent for a long time. I don't think it will last more than a few months on the walking stick, but it sure will be easy to freshen the coating.


You should start a thread on beekeeping. I don't think I've seen that topic posted before. 
I, for one, would be interested.


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## TNTreeHugger (Apr 25, 2022)

pdqdl said:


> I prefer to leave such personal content unpublished.
> 
> You'll probably never be able to find me espousing my personal views on religion, firearms, and not really too much on my personal politics, despite my frequent visits into the P&R forum. I also don't relate very many details about my personal life.


Idk why that statement was necessary - all I was asking was to see your woodworking projects... which you "published."  I didn't ask for your religious, political views, or details about your personal life...
Sharing your personal interests and hobbies isn't the same as sharing intimate secrets.
You're generous with producing helpful information to other members, but if you can't also produce evidence of personal practical experience of obtaining that information, it's no more useful, or verifiable, than a google search.

Btw, your woodworking projects are very nice. Thanks for sharing.


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## FabianRW (Apr 25, 2022)

TNTreeHugger said:


> Exactly the kind of reply I was hoping for, Thank You so much for that information.
> The beeswax I have comes in tins already in a paste consistency, so it's easy to apply.
> I also have solid cakes of beeswax - If I understand your instructions correctly, I can slice off small pieces, heat-soften those, and then make a spreadable paste by adding turpentine?
> I have a warming tray I bought to use with my encaustic painting, and I have lots of beeswax on hand... that's why I'm using that ant not the linseed oil, which I don't have.
> ...


No problem, yes you can heat the wax till it just melts, with constant attendance as it can easily get too hot. After it melts you just pour it no more than 1/8" thick into a tray and wait for it to cool.
Then when completely cooled you just break it into flakes by hand into a jar and fill that jar up to the level of the wax with pure turpentine then put the lid on and leave somewhere out of direct sunlight, after between two days and a week it will tend to be ready to stir into an even consistency and you can keep it in the jar ready for use.

If the wax ever dries you can pour a little turpentine on-top and stir wish a brush to mix the wax, after around 5 minutes you get a nice layer on-top of thinned wax ready to apply.
In terms of thicker wax you just use less turps to begin with.

Wish you all the best in your endeavours, it's best to do it all outdoors if you can, for health and safety, it's a lovely smell but is the equiv to bad moonshine so shouldn't be breathed in too much.


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## TNTreeHugger (Apr 25, 2022)

FabianRW said:


> No problem, yes you can heat the wax till it just melts, with constant attendance as it can easily get too hot. After it melts you just pour it no more than 1/8" thick into a tray and wait for it to cool.
> Then when completely cooled you just break it into flakes by hand into a jar and fill that jar up to the level of the wax with pure turpentine then put the lid on and leave somewhere out of direct sunlight, after between two days and a week it will tend to be ready to stir into an even consistency and you can keep it in the jar ready for use.
> 
> If the wax ever dries you can pour a little turpentine on-top and stir wish a brush to mix the wax, after around 5 minutes you get a nice layer on-top of thinned wax ready to apply.
> ...


Thanks! Going to get some turpentine today and give it a try.
And, Yes, definitely an outside project... that's why I can't do my encaustic painting in the mobile home - sets off the smoke alarms. 

How long do you think it will it keep in the jar?


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## pdqdl (Apr 25, 2022)

TNTreeHugger said:


> Idk why that statement was necessary - all I was asking was to see your woodworking projects... which you "published."  I didn't ask for your religious, political views, or details about your personal life...
> Sharing your personal interests and hobbies isn't the same as sharing intimate secrets.
> You're generous with producing helpful information to other members, but if you can't also produce evidence of personal practical experience of obtaining that information, it's no more useful, or verifiable, than a google search.
> 
> Btw, your woodworking projects are very nice. Thanks for sharing.



You were asking me about firearms, and pictures of them. I didn't comment, then you pressed for an answer. I gave you an answer, and it seems that isn't good enough, either.


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## FabianRW (Apr 25, 2022)

TNTreeHugger said:


> Thanks! Going to get some turpentine today and give it a try.
> And, Yes, definitely an outside project... that's why I can't do my encaustic painting in the mobile home - sets off the smoke alarms.
> 
> How long do you think it will it keep in the jar?


No problem, that'll keep well in an airtight jar (must be glass/metal lid because turps melts plastic) but yeah no reason why it'll dry out, what does happen if it is left for around a year or more is it starts to develop dry lumps within the thing which is the wax crystallizing because wax slowly clumps and dries, that's why the bees make it because it slowly dries and gets rid of water from the nectar to turn into honey, keeps it from going off.
That's why beeswax is so good but also why it will over time actually dry the wood if not maintained with more and more, essentially displacing the low moisture content in the wood with beeswax.

So in essence the wax never dries out beyond use, all you have to do is stir it a bit of it starts to conglomerate, boiled linseed also is ejected if mixed into beeswax after a very long time, it's pretty unique stuff and when used just right is really versatile but when used wrong, ie not maintained with more, can weaken the wood in time.


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## TNTreeHugger (Apr 25, 2022)

pdqdl said:


> You were asking me about firearms, and pictures of them. I didn't comment, then you pressed for an answer. I gave you an answer, and it seems that isn't good enough, either.



I don't give a crap about your "firearms" arsenal.
I was interested in seeing the stock you refinished.
If you had specifically said to begin with, "I don't want to post photos of my guns" I would have understood.
Your nebulous reply just led to more questions.

And, actually, YOU were the one who mentioned your gun stock first.
You could have just mentioned all those other things you made.


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## pdqdl (Apr 25, 2022)

TNTreeHugger said:


> I don't give a crap about your "firearms" arsenal.
> I was interested in seeing the stock you refinished.
> If you had specifically said to begin with, "I don't want to post photos of my guns" I would have understood.
> Your nebulous reply just led to more questions.
> ...



Read it again, and you will see that I never mentioned any possession. 
"It used to be the treatment of preference for rifle stocks."​​NOTHING was nebulous about my reply, either. I said "_Never took pictures of them. That was before there was a such thing as a digital camera, anyway."_

To which you *damn sure* asked about my guns.


TNTreeHugger said:


> You got rid of the guns?


That was the last question you asked me, prior to your rant at me over the defense of my personal privacy.

There is no need to make a fight about all this. I have been perfectly clear in my answers and responses. I don't think you are entitled to regulate my answers, so kindly just take what I tell without trying to regulate it.

Just remember: I do a very poor job of interpreting what you _*think*_ you asked/said. I will always read and understand the literal meaning of what you print. And very predictably not much of anything else.
​


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## pdqdl (Apr 25, 2022)

FabianRW said:


> ... The wax needs to be quite thin to soak right in whereas boiled linseed just goes in and stays in better, so you'd ideally put that on first and maintain say once a year with that.





FabianRW said:


> when melting the highly flammable wax and pouring thin into trays to make flakes for thinning



It occurs to me that you are working too hard to make "thin" strips of beeswax. Just get a block of beeswax and an old fashioned carpenters plane, set it for the depth of shavings you want, and just churn 'em out fast as you wish.





Not perhaps so easy if you don't have a hand planer, but doesn't everyone have one sitting in their basement? Maybe dad's workshop?


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## TNTreeHugger (Apr 25, 2022)

pdqdl said:


> If your goal is a natural finish of some sort, I'd consider linseed oil. Tung oil is more popular and a bit higher priced.


No, this was the question:
*"Anyone else use wax to seal/preserve their wood carvings?"*


TNTreeHugger said:


> Have you used any of those?





pdqdl said:


> Linseed oil, yes. It used to be the treatment of preference for rifle stocks.





TNTreeHugger said:


> I would love to see photos of the wood gun stocks you made.





pdqdl said:


> Never took pictures of them.





TNTreeHugger said:


> You got rid of the guns?





pdqdl said:


> That was about 45 years ago.





TNTreeHugger said:


> And...?
> 
> I still have this oil (using boiled linseed oil) on distressed wood I made 55 years ago.





pdqdl said:


> I never had any patience for carving, nor any desire, either.





pdqdl said:


> I've never tried beeswax as a finish.





pdqdl said:


> It occurs to me that you are working too hard to make "thin" strips of beeswax. Just get a block of beeswax and an old fashioned carpenters plane, set it for the depth of shavings you want, and just churn 'em out fast as you wish.


Advice from someone who never tried beeswax as a finish.


You know, it would have saved us all a lot of wasted time if you had led with this:
*"I've never tried beeswax as a finish."
"I never had any patience for carving, nor any desire, either."*
Why would you even bother to reply at all since this was the question I asked?:
*"Anyone else use wax to seal/preserve their wood carvings?"
*

And that's all the time I'm going to waste here on your little derailment.


PS, in case you missed it earlier:
You're generous with producing helpful information to other members, but if you can't also produce evidence of personal practical experience of obtaining that information, it's no more useful, or verifiable, than a google search.


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## pdqdl (Apr 25, 2022)

And it would have been a lot easier for all of us if you said "Don't bother answering my question unless you are willing to prove your merit to my satisfaction"

You've done a nice job of killing your own thread, by the way.


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## SS396driver (Apr 25, 2022)

I have used Howard's Beeswax and orange oil on lots of items . Gives a nice finish


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## pdqdl (Apr 25, 2022)

TNTreeHugger said:


> PS, in case you missed it earlier:
> You're generous with producing helpful information to other members, but if you can't also produce evidence of personal practical experience of obtaining that information, it's no more useful, or verifiable, than a google search.



I don't expect to be questioned about the veracity of my statements, unless they seem outlandish to begin with. If you're not going to accept the freely given responses, you shouldn't bother asking.

I also noticed that you accepted FabianRW's comments without asking for any pictures or other proof. _I see how this works..._


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## gggGary (Apr 25, 2022)

Beeswax is used on leather goods (horse saddles) So I swipe it from my wife and use it on vinyll motorcycle seats. It really seams to help old dry stiff vinyl. Much better than all those vinyl spritz bottles in the big box stores that are mostly water. It's a thick paste.


It would be too personal to show you pics of where my butt is placed. ;^)


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## TNTreeHugger (Apr 25, 2022)

SS396driver said:


> I have used Howard's Beeswax and orange oil on lots of items . Gives a nice finish


Very nice - Love the bread bowl! Did you make it from scratch, or did you salvage an antique?
How do you apply the Howards, and do you heat it at all?

I found the Howards:


https://www.menards.com/main/paint/interior-paint-stain/wood-conditioners-oils/howard-feed-n-wax-reg-interior-orange-oil-wood-polish-conditioner-1-pt/feedwaxfw0016/p-1444433594852.htm


And their MSDS:


https://hw.menardc.com/main/items/media/HOWAR019/SDS/Feed-N-Wax_SDS.pdf


Looks like it's petroleum-based wax and turpentine?

Found this comparing the two waxes:

_"depends on what you want to use it for. i prefer bees wax for my wax finishes over using paraffin wax. bees wax is softer then paraffin so it soaks into the wood better. for puting on my metal i usualy just grab some minwax finishing wax. it works just as well as something you make yourself and unless you are realy hard on your metal surfaces it does the trick. if you can get the bees wax and mix up some wax finish. here are 3 mixes for finishes i use the mineral oil one because it is cheaper and i have used it for a while and it works.
1. Equal parts tung oil, boiled linseed oil and beeswax. Melt wax in a double saucepan for safety.
2. Two ounces beeswax, one pint turpentine, and linseed oil equal to the volume of the wax/turps mix. The wax will dissolve in the turps if shaved.
3. Mineral oil and beeswax mixed at 1:5 or 1:6 ratio. This is food safe"





Beeswax or paraffin.


I've seen The Schwarz rub wax on the sole of his plane before using it. Do you suppose that was paraffin? I have a friend who keeps bees so I have easy access to beeswax but it feels a bit sticky. (it is allegedly clean And free of honey.) I guess I could use the beeswax to make some homemade fin...




www.woodtalkonline.com




_


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## TNTreeHugger (Apr 25, 2022)

gggGary said:


> Beeswax is used on leather goods (horse saddles) So I swipe it from my wife and use it on vinyll motorcycle seats. It really seams to help old dry stiff vinyl. Much better than all those vinyl spritz bottles in the big box stores that are mostly water. It's a thick paste.
> View attachment 983775
> 
> It would be too personal to show you pics of where my butt is placed. ;^)




Looks like Aussie is a combination of both waxes.


https://www.springfieldleather.com/sds-sheets/Fiebings/Fiebings%20Aussie%20Conditioner.pdf


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## TNTreeHugger (Apr 25, 2022)

Picked up some turpentine today.
Going to try out the beeswax/terps mixture on the bamboo cane when I finish sanding it.

Wish I knew what was in the Master Paste. I'd like to thin it a little, but not sure what with. No ingredients on the container.


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## SS396driver (Apr 26, 2022)

TNTreeHugger said:


> Very nice - Love the bread bowl! Did you make it from scratch, or did you salvage an antique?
> How do you apply the Howards, and do you heat it at all?
> 
> I found the Howards:
> ...


Yes I made it from a piece of firewood . I only use it on non food preparation items . For food items just mineral oil


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## TNTreeHugger (Apr 26, 2022)

SS396driver said:


> Yes I made it from a piece of firewood . I only use it on non food preparation items . For food items just mineral oil


What tool did you use to carve out the bowl, a hook knife?
I bought one, but haven't really used it yet.


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## SS396driver (Apr 26, 2022)

No I used an Arbortech planer 


I have since made a adze to do it more traditionally


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## wardog (Apr 26, 2022)

I use my beeswax to paint my new plastic foundations when I install them into my hives. I start to melt my beeswax in the microwave and then transfer it into one of those small crock pots. That keeps it hot enough to paint the beeswax onto the foundations. I just let it cool down after done with it in the crock pot and the next time take the liner out into the microwave to get started melting and then back to the heater part.


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## TNTreeHugger (May 4, 2022)

Worked some more on the bamboo cane today
Tried out my wood burning set I bought last year... finally have time to use it. 
I used the beeswax technique I used on the other solid wood canes, but too much heat and it want's to split. Had to apply a much thinner coat of wax.

Not bad for a beginner. 



Here's before...


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## TNTreeHugger (May 4, 2022)

Here's another one from the barn, I made for my dad 34 years ago - brand new quarter, 1988
This one was stained and polyurethaned.


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## FabianRW (May 27, 2022)

pdqdl said:


> It occurs to me that you are working too hard to make "thin" strips of beeswax. Just get a block of beeswax and an old fashioned carpenters plane, set it for the depth of shavings you want, and just churn 'em out fast as you wish.
> 
> View attachment 983689
> 
> ...


I do it on bulk, a large bucket of wax at a time, I found some blocks in a skip outside a woodturner's where the guy had died and his family were selling everything off. The wax turned out to be mostly beeswax, I already had a load and now I'm keeping bees so for me melting to reclaim wax is the way to go. It was grainy and dirty, always needs melting to filter or settle the debris out so I save effort by pouring it out and I use the energy from an outdoor fire when I have roots etc to burn, so very relaxing and enjoyable labour-free method.


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