# Stihl MS-170 vs MS-180 C



## HemiMoparGuy (Jun 11, 2013)

Hey guys,

I have a side job coming up clearing a woods. This will pay for buying some new toys to make the job easier and also put some cash in the pocket. I found a nice 044 for $450, and looking to buy a small saw for trimming. I also have an 029 Super and husky 450. I was set on the 180, but 2 dealers I stopped at today were pushing towards the 170 for my needs, as they only had 180 CBE or whatever with the tooless adjuster and easy start, but the $50 difference they said for my needs they say isn't worth it for the special features and the couple tenths HP gain. Another dealer about 30 miles away has lots of 180 C's in stock and wasn't really pushing one direction or the other, said he has a bunch of 170's coming in, in the next day and bunch of 180's now and are only $20 apart, but it's also another 30 mile drive, I just happened to be in the area, and have no need to return unless I go for that 180. I don't remember and can't find it here now, but some people on here were saying the 170 seemed way under powered compared to 180, the mentioned that to the dealers and they kinda snickered and said, well, what were they cutting?? For YOUR application and what you're telling me you already have, you shouldn't notice the power difference in 6" or less wood...which I'm basically looking at prolly less than 4" to use this small saw for, if I have anything 6" more than just a couple cuts, I'm grabbing the 029 or 450. So I'm looking for opinions...is the 180 worth $20 and a 30 mile one way drive in my truck over the 170? Also, some comments on the price of the 044 I am very close to buying are encouraged...it's about a 100 mile drive one way. As always, any comments (except one's stating I should just buy the similar Huskey) are greatly appreciated.

Thank You in Advance,

Eric


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## mattaggie (Jun 11, 2013)

The regular MS180C-B (with tool-less chain tensioner) has been discontinued. Now its just the MS180C-BE (EZ start and tool-less tensioner). I personally don't like the tool-less chain tensioner and can take or leave EZ start. I would just get the MS170.


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## o8f150 (Jun 11, 2013)

I would go with the 170,, mine is MM'd and I put a fully adjustable carb on it

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Sr4oqOVyjfE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


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## HemiMoparGuy (Jun 11, 2013)

mattaggie said:


> The regular MS180C-B (with tool-less chain tensioner) has been discontinued. Now its just the MS180C-BE (EZ start and tool-less tensioner). I personally don't like the tool-less chain tensioner and can take or leave EZ start. I would just get the MS170.



This one dealer has both 180 CB and CBE, Cuz one has the big bulge of the easy start and the other does not. and he doesn't even have a 170 on the shelf, so I'm guessing that's a pretty hot selling saw right now, and this is a John Deere/Stihl dealer way out in farm country. The other 2 dealers only had the easy start versions and 170s

What don't you like about the tensioner? I'm kinda in the don't really care either way, I only wanted 180 for power difference, just curious what about it that you dislike.




o8f150 said:


> I would go with the 170,, mine is MM'd and I put a fully adjustable carb on it
> 
> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Sr4oqOVyjfE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>



Where did you get the carb, do you know how much they run, and do you know the carb number?



Thanks for the replies, guys. I think I'm pretty well sold on the 170 as I didn't realize how close they were in rated power and the tiny stuff I am cutting and the close to $50 difference it'll cost me to get the basic 180 between price difference and gas there and back. But more input desired cuz of what I remember reading at some point on this site.


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## ckelp (Jun 11, 2013)

get the 170, down the road toss a wt 215 at it


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## Philip Wheelock (Jun 11, 2013)

HemiMoparGuy said:


> ...I have a side job coming up clearing a woods. ... I found a nice 044 for $450, and looking to buy a small saw for trimming. I also have an 029 Super and husky 450. I was set on the 180...



Have you thought about a 50-70cc 2-saw plan to see how things go? Use the Husky 450 for limbing and smaller wood and the 044 for the rest. I'd get the 044 first; the price is ok as long as the saw is clean, runs well, no broken parts, and doesn't look like it's seen a ton of hours. I've found that my 260 and 440 are pretty efficient for this kind of work.


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## z71mike (Jun 11, 2013)

With saws that small, it's not easy to notice big power differences. Get whichever one is easier on you.


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## Abflyboy (Jun 11, 2013)

Philip Wheelock said:


> Have you thought about a 50-70cc 2-saw plan to see how things go? Use the Husky 450 for limbing and smaller wood and the 044 for the rest. I'd get the 044 first; the price is ok as long as the saw is clean, runs well, no broken parts, and doesn't look like it's seen a ton of hours. I've found that my 260 and 440 are pretty efficient for this kind of work.



I don't use anything smaller than my 026. It runs a 20" bar and 3/8" full chisel chain. It does all my small stuff just fine and has enough torque to get some bigger stuff done without stopping and grabbing another saw. I ran the heck out of my MS660 for a while until I got my MS440. Now the 660 only comes out for the really big stuff.


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## Franny K (Jun 11, 2013)

I just looked at the manual which is the same. It looks like the 170 comes with Picco Micro Mini Comfort 3 (61 PMMC3) and the 180 with Picco Micro Comfort 3 (63 PMC3) so unless your dealer will change out the bar and chain that might be more important than the one mm in bore.


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## HemiMoparGuy (Jun 11, 2013)

Franny K said:


> I just looked at the manual which is the same. It looks like the 170 comes with Picco Micro Mini Comfort 3 (61 PMMC3) and the 180 with Picco Micro Comfort 3 (63 PMC3) so unless your dealer will change out the bar and chain that might be more important than the one mm in bore.



Kinda confused what you are inferring. Do you mean that the chain is bigger on the 180 so the slight power difference is basically negligible because it needs the extra power to run the thicker chain through a load?


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## Franny K (Jun 11, 2013)

HemiMoparGuy said:


> Kinda confused what you are inferring. Do you mean that the chain is bigger on the 180 so the slight power difference is basically negligible because it needs the extra power to run the thicker chain through a load?



I was posting in this thread earlier today. http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/238212.htm

I have never used the micro mini picco comfort on anything but a pole saw so I don't want to infer too much. I have bought 52 and 56 drive link loops in the 0.050 for ten dollars or so and the teeth on those are longer so quite possibly chain expense will be twice on the 0.043 drive link thickness choice that comes on the 170 the way I read the on line manual.


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## o8f150 (Jun 11, 2013)

klep is right,,, for a change:msp_tongue::msp_tongue: its a wt215,, they can be had for 30-40 on fleabay,, I did a thread on the change over,, I will find it and repost it for you


editing
here is the way to change it over
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/235748-2.htm


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## HemiMoparGuy (Jun 11, 2013)

o8f150 said:


> klep is right,,, for a change:msp_tongue::msp_tongue: its a wt215,, they can be had for 30-40 on fleabay,, I did a thread on the change over,, I will find it and repost it for you
> 
> 
> editing
> ...



Cool, thanks. I may even find I don't need to bother with the carb replacement...I'm gonna have a good saw plan that I will switch saws for bigger things, this may suit me just fine (muffler modded of course, cuz that's free) for trimming brush off of felled trees. I can fall it with 044, trim brush with 170 and limb it with 029, eventually 261. I know this seems ridiculous to switch saws, but I basically plan on felling a bunch of trees first, then when tired of the weight, trim all the brush, then do the limbing, log the limbs, then grab 044 again to log the base. Also, I plan on having helpers, so multiple saw can be run at once. Ok, enough rambling of my planned out clearing.

Thanks for the replies


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## z71mike (Jun 11, 2013)

The muffler mod is what requires the new carb for the H adjustment. So mm'ing without replacing the carb causes leaning.


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