# More chipper stuff, Bandit 250XP disc refresh



## swyman (Feb 29, 2012)

Have a '02 250XP with 1500hrs and noticed the disc is wearing. It's kind of hard to see in the pics but the center of the disc is wearing where the chips go through. It looks like it is getting close to the knife mounting bolts. Am going to do a weld build up with 309 stainless. Was going to use a hard surface rod but I have a whole spool of 309. I know stainless is very hard also but just wondered if you guys ever ran into this issue. I may call Bandit first to see what they recommend.View attachment 226745
View attachment 226746


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## BlackOakTreeServ (Feb 29, 2012)

Need a few more pics to see whats going on...
never heard of disc wearing out...could just be me though..


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## Blakesmaster (Feb 29, 2012)

Are you positive it's only 1500 hours? Hour meters are mad cheap and easy to replace.


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## husabud (Feb 29, 2012)

My '01 200xp has well over 3000hrs on it and the pockets are still 1/2" or so away from the knife bolts. I would think welding the wheel may throw it off balance if you're not super careful. I'm also not so sure that the 309 will adhere well enough to be used in that application. ???


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## no tree to big (Feb 29, 2012)

the disk on my morbark 200, not sure on hours, has severe wear on the disk not so much like the one pictured (close to bolts) but it has more of a V worn into the disk. I need to check the blades if I get around to doing it any time soon I'll try and get a pic


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## swyman (Mar 1, 2012)

Blakesmaster said:


> Are you positive it's only 1500 hours? Hour meters are mad cheap and easy to replace.



Had 1460 on it when I bought it. It's an '02 but was a rental unit somewhere. It is in really good condition, motor does not use any oil, and has just been perfect. I would love to paint it and put a sticker kit on but maybe next year. It could have more hours than what is on the HOBBS but overall is great. Has auto-feed also which helps to. Bought it at a online repo aution last spring, paid $12k and no regrets.


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## swyman (Mar 1, 2012)

woodsman44 said:


> Need a few more pics to see whats going on...
> never heard of disc wearing out...could just be me though..



I will paint then block it tomorrow so the low spots will show up better. I'll measure with a scale how deep it has worn also.


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## swyman (Mar 1, 2012)

no tree to big said:


> the disk on my morbark 200, not sure on hours, has severe wear on the disk not so much like the one pictured (close to bolts) but it has more of a V worn into the disk. I need to check the blades if I get around to doing it any time soon I'll try and get a pic



That's exactly what I have going on. The pics don't show very well, will take different ones tomorrow.


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## swyman (Mar 1, 2012)

Oh, one other thing I was thinking of doing while I have the chute off is cut a window on the underside of the chute at the bend for a much easier clean out if it plugs. It happened 3 times this past year and was a major PITA. If that chute had a access door it should speed the process up considerably. Anyone done this?


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## Bowhunter01 (Mar 1, 2012)

swyman said:


> Oh, one other thing I was thinking of doing while I have the chute off is cut a window on the underside of the chute at the bend for a much easier clean out if it plugs. It happened 3 times this past year and was a major PITA. If that chute had a access door it should speed the process up considerably. Anyone done this?



Been thinking about a cleanout panel on my chute, just like you're saying. Leylands like to get clogged in mine worse than anything else, we keep a close eye on the discharge and keep a jameson with an old blade on it handy, especially when chipping wet pine or leyland cypress. PITA. 

My bolt pockets look a lot like yours in the pics, interested to hear what the consensus is.


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## superjunior (Mar 1, 2012)

Bowhunter01 said:


> Been thinking about a cleanout panel on my chute, just like you're saying. Leylands like to get clogged in mine worse than anything else, we keep a close eye on the discharge and keep a jameson with an old blade on it handy, especially when chipping wet pine or leyland cypress. PITA.
> 
> My bolt pockets look a lot like yours in the pics, interested to hear what the consensus is.



We used to use a jameson too but what works really good is an old garden hoe, just about perfect size for shoving in a chipper chute and freeing up clogs.


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## dbl612 (Mar 1, 2012)

Bowhunter01 said:


> Been thinking about a cleanout panel on my chute, just like you're saying. Leylands like to get clogged in mine worse than anything else, we keep a close eye on the discharge and keep a jameson with an old blade on it handy, especially when chipping wet pine or leyland cypress. PITA.
> 
> My bolt pockets look a lot like yours in the pics, interested to hear what the consensus is.



the type 309 stainless will have no problem fusing to the disk, (a36 steel) grind surface well in weld area and use tri-mix gas mixture. while stainless is tough to drill, it is not very abrasion resistant however. i would not reccomend welding the worn areas without post-weld balancing. the wear is probably quite uniform on opposing knife pockets, so item is still in balance. no need to screw up bearings with and out of balance wheel. regards, tom.


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## tree MDS (Mar 1, 2012)

Gonna check my 250 out when I get down to the shop. I've got something like 2150 hours on mine. I think I would have noticed anything like what you got going on there, but ya got me worried now! Lol.


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## 2treeornot2tree (Mar 1, 2012)

My '85 morbark 200 has 2600 hrs on it and no noticable wear on the disc.


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## tree MDS (Mar 1, 2012)

2treeornot2tree said:


> My '85 morbark 200 has 2600 hrs on it and no noticable wear on the disc.



That's probably because grass trimmings make for easy chipping! 

Sorry, couldn't resist..


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## 2treeornot2tree (Mar 1, 2012)

I can sure get alot on the truck in one load. Sure beats your steiner!


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## Eq Broker (Mar 1, 2012)

*More chipper stuff*

Husabud is correct about building back up the area that's disappearing. If you're going to rebuild this area, test the chipper before putting it back in to service. Simply start and engage the clutch and take it up to full speed (don't put any wood through the chipper). If the chipper starts to jump up and down, you are out of balance. All drums and discs are balanced by the manufacturers before being sold. The disc could be pulled and sent back to Bandit for repair. It does take a large industrial type machine to spin balance a drum or disc. Oh yeah, I would remove the knives before testing the balance of the disc. Also, check the fan paddles for cracking in the bends as they have a tendency to crack from the flexing.

Hope this helps!

Eq Broker


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## tree MDS (Mar 1, 2012)

Eq Broker said:


> Husabud is correct about building back up the area that's disappearing. If you're going to rebuild this area, test the chipper before putting it back in to service. Simply start and engage the clutch and take it up to full speed (don't put any wood through the chipper). If the chipper starts to jump up and down, you are out of balance. All drums and discs are balanced by the manufacturers before being sold. The disc could be pulled and sent back to Bandit for repair. It does take a large industrial type machine to spin balance a drum or disc. Oh yeah, I would remove the knives before testing the balance of the disc. Also, check the fan paddles for cracking in the bends as they have a tendency to crack from the flexing.
> 
> Hope this helps!
> 
> Eq Broker



You're sure bandit will repair a disk? 

Just checked mine (2150 hrs) and it's worn quite a bit more than the original poster's. Ouch. 

Waiting to hear from bandit on a price for a new one (not that I can afford it at the moment, but will be good to know). I had to call them about something else anyway. I can only imagine the ass ramming they'll be trying to lay on me for this one.. funny thing, it's their inferior part that's the problem. This should be interesting. I may be taking back all the good things I've said about these chippers over the years. Always some bull#### with this business..


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## swyman (Mar 1, 2012)

tree MDS said:


> Gonna check my 250 out when I get down to the shop. I've got something like 2150 hours on mine. I think I would have noticed anything like what you got going on there, but ya got me worried now! Lol.



It's not a 911 but just want it perfect.


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## Eq Broker (Mar 1, 2012)

*More chipper stuff*

Please check with Bandit as they may sell a remanufactured disc. You're right that there might be liability issues when selling other than new.


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## tree MDS (Mar 1, 2012)

Eq Broker said:


> Please check with Bandit as they may sell a remanufactured disc. You're right that there might be liability issues when selling other than new.



I just called bandit and explained my situation to the guy. He seemed pretty cool and agreed that that's not a lot of hours. I sent him some pics of my disk and am waiting to hear back. We'll see how they handle this. And yes, they do recondition disks, don't know how much $ yet though. The price on a new disk was repulsive.


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## Eq Broker (Mar 1, 2012)

*More chipper stuff*

It will be expensive either way you go. I wish there was a chipper grave yard somewhere so we had access to good used parts.

Good luck!


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## tree MDS (Mar 1, 2012)

Eq Broker said:


> It will be expensive either way you go. I wish there was a chipper grave yard somewhere so we had access to good used parts.
> 
> Good luck!



I don't think the grave yard would do any good if the disks are only good for 1500 hours. 

And thanks.

Edit: oh, and so much for the even wear theory. One pocket has all the shoulders protecting the nuts, but they're all missing from the other.


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## Eq Broker (Mar 1, 2012)

*More chipper info*

You have made a good point about the used parts. I would also ask Bandit if they could hard face it while they're at it. If not, I would have someone do it prolonging the life of the disc.


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## tree MDS (Mar 1, 2012)

Eq Broker said:


> You have made a good point about the used parts. I would also ask Bandit if they could hard face it while they're at it. If not, I would have someone do it prolonging the life of the disc.



I got a price of $1500 from bandit to hardface the disk for me (I think that was including new knives and bolts). They recommended I take it to a dealer in my state that can do it. I have some other wear issues with the slide box that probably needs some hard face action too, so I'll probably have them do that too (when I can afford it). If the dealer isn't going to do any special balancing, I might see if I can just find a good welder to do it.

So all and all, not completely horrible.. just another thing to add to the list.


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## swyman (Mar 1, 2012)

tree MDS said:


> I got a price of $1500 from bandit to hardface the disk for me (I think that was including new knives and bolts). They recommended I take it to a dealer in my state that can do it. I have some other wear issues with the slide box that probably needs some hard face action too, so I'll probably have them do that too (when I can afford it). If the dealer isn't going to do any special balancing, I might see if I can just find a good welder to do it.
> 
> So all and all, not completely horrible.. just another thing to add to the list.



MDS, I too called Bandit this morning and sent them pics. They told me to do just what I planned, do a build up and grind it back flush but they use a 7018 rod which I have a rod oven full of. So that's what I'm going to do except will do a cover pass with a hard surface rod just to see if it slows down the wear. I guess there is not a lot of wear as it has moved a lot of material. I too have the same issue on the nut pockets, one side is perfect and the other end of the wheel has worn through. Here is my updated pics, wish you were closer, I'd weld it for ya but I would just take it to a local weld shop with the cover off the disc, just make sure they ground to the wheel as close to where they are welding so electricity will not ground through the bearings but they should know that.

View attachment 226972
View attachment 226973


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## swyman (Mar 1, 2012)

tree MDS said:


> You're sure bandit will repair a disk?
> 
> I may be taking back all the good things I've said about these chippers over the years. Always some bull#### with this business..



I have not checked but I don't think there is any way a disc style chipper could avoid this wear. It is not a huge deal at all just normal wear. $1500 to repair yours as they quoted???? Attention all dics chipper owners, please send me your disc's to be repaired!!!!!!!


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## Eq Broker (Mar 1, 2012)

*More chipper stuff*

You might be able to find a machinist in your area that can perform the task a lot cheaper. The tough part will be balancing the disc. You might want to see if Bandit will send you specs on the disc so the machinist doesn't over build the area. We used to have a machine shop in the Atlanta area who had a balancing machine and they have since gone out of business. You might be able to find a comparable company in your area. I would use the search words machinist and steel fabricator and see what is available. If they don't do it they might be able to recommend you to someone.


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## tree MDS (Mar 1, 2012)

swyman said:


> I have not checked but I don't think there is any way a disc style chipper could avoid this wear. It is not a huge deal at all just normal wear. $1500 to repair yours as they quoted???? Attention all dics chipper owners, please send me your disc's to be repaired!!!!!!!



LOL! Shouldn't you be on that #### as we speak?? I wanna see the pics!! 

Damn good thread man!


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## Eq Broker (Mar 1, 2012)

*More chipper stuff*

Disconnect the engine battery before welding as well.


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## swyman (Mar 1, 2012)

tree MDS said:


> LOL! Shouldn't you be on that #### as we speak?? I wanna see the pics!!
> 
> Damn good thread man!



Will get to it next week. My brother-in-law just brought over their field cultivator that they want to sell. I have to use my plasma cutter to cut off the liquid fertilizer tank mount to put on their new one. So will hit that in the morning and then bid a tree at a guys house I work with at the factory. Sucks I can only work till about 1pm everyday, work starts at 3:30pm. How long before I get enough business to make it on my own???? I will post the pics when complete. Good luck with yours!


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## swyman (Mar 1, 2012)

Eq Broker said:


> Disconnect the engine battery before welding as well.



For sure, have heard many horror stories from not doing that. The autofeed system would probably blow as it's all digital controls. No chances!


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## husabud (Mar 1, 2012)

Great thread Swyman! I guess I was confused when I said adhesion and meant wearability. After changing knives on my 200xp today I do see similar wear, but not as bad as yours. I have a few great welders here but no one to balance the wheel when done. I can weld very well but I am not sure I am up to this challenge.

As far as disconnecting the battery, best advice yet, as my tach was cooked when some bozo did a few welds on my machine. $500 for a new tach. For now I am the auto-feed.


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## Eq Broker (Mar 1, 2012)

Husabud,

I can save you some money on a tach when you're ready. Just let me know what brand it is.


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## swyman (Mar 1, 2012)

About all this balancing, I know it is important but it was balanced when built. As long as I grind all material back flat to it's original shape, it should be very close. I also noticed that one of my wheel lock brackets (piece of square tube welded on backside of wheel) is missing. That sure would seem to throw of off balance but machine runs smooth. I am going to replace that to. Never noticed because I have always just put a piece of round stock through the wheel.when changing knives.


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## husabud (Mar 1, 2012)

I suppose you are right to some extent. I would just hate to spend the time and or money to fix a problem and find out one pocket was welded denser than the others and the wheel jumps ship, or you bearings eat it in two hours. That being said, what will it be maybe a few ounces?

Eq- I am ready yesterday. i think it is a LOR? I'll look tom. Pm me if you like.


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## swyman (Mar 1, 2012)

husabud said:


> I suppose you are right to some extent. I would just hate to spend the time and or money to fix a problem and find out one pocket was welded denser than the others and the wheel jumps ship, or you bearings eat it in two hours. That being said, what will it be maybe a few ounces?
> 
> Eq- I am ready yesterday. i think it is a LOR? I'll look tom. Pm me if you like.



That is a hell of a piece of rotating mass for sure.


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## swyman (Mar 5, 2012)

Got it done today, attachments not working for some reason. Going to daughters ball game will try again later. Turned out great!


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## swyman (Mar 5, 2012)

View attachment 227539
View attachment 227540
View attachment 227541


First pic is the weld before grinding. Ended up using a grinder and carbide burr on a die grinder to finish.


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## swyman (Mar 5, 2012)

Now it worked, found a different route


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## husabud (Mar 6, 2012)

Nice fix Swyman! And nice tight welds. It looks like you've done that a time or two before.


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## tree MDS (Mar 6, 2012)

swyman said:


> View attachment 227539
> View attachment 227540
> View attachment 227541
> 
> ...



Looks good man!!

I dropped mine off at the dealer yesterday to have the disk and slot in the lower slide box welded up. The mechanic seemed like a flake, but hopefully it comes out alright. I'm thinking I should have just went with a good welder. Oh well, I'm sure it'll be better than it was. Time to get this #### done and get back to workie!!


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## swyman (Mar 6, 2012)

*One remaining issue*

View attachment 227557


I also found this while working onit. This pic is taken from the top of where the knives and anvil meet. The worn piece in the pic is a square bar welded horizontal above the anvil. This should be where my small sticks pass through. Chipper does a very nice chip job but when I put in a lot of small twigs, some get through and I believe this to be the cause. Would have to pull the wheel to fix so maybe next winter! I don't think you will be able to see this without the chute base being off.


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## Eq Broker (Mar 6, 2012)

Great job on the repair. Lot less expensive you handling the repair than the alternative.


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## BlackOakTreeServ (Mar 6, 2012)

Fine job swyman, looks like you got it filled in and ground down flush, should be back to normal, no balance problem, heck all that wear would start to cause a balance problem, you just got it back to normal.


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## treeclimber101 (Mar 6, 2012)

I am hitting this thread way late , but it looks like that wheel was miss casted , I mean to wear that wheel like that seems crazy


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## 2treeornot2tree (Mar 6, 2012)

I was changing my chipper knifes today, and i was wrong about it not wearing. Mine is worn, but not nearly to the bolts. It has 2600 hrs on it. Here some pics.


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## husabud (Mar 6, 2012)

The more I look at these pics, the more I see the flaw. You have a huge mass turning at extreme velocity thus chipping a solid object against a plane that is perpendicular to th knife. WTF is that all about? Wouldn't it make sense to have the area where the wheel meets the chip at a somewhat equal angle if not just close? 
Now that I think of it I haven't looked this closely at my wheel in a couple months. The time has come.


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## a_lopa (Mar 7, 2012)

Doesnt take much to build that back up,I had a 90xp that was way worn and a welder built it back up for $300


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## swyman (Mar 8, 2012)

Alopa is right guys, just take off the top chute so you can lay a flat bead and weld stringers till it builds up past the original flat. It will take a 6" grinding wheel minimum. I don't think a 4 1/2" will get ya in deep enough. Your wire welder will do the trick to, just crank the heat and lay beads. May not wear as well but will still take along time to wear down. C'mon Spicoli, I know your dad has an ultimate set of tools, you can fix it!


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## swyman (Mar 8, 2012)

2treeornot2tree said:


> I was changing my chipper knifes today, and i was wrong about it not wearing. Mine is worn, but not nearly to the bolts. It has 2600 hrs on it. Here some pics.



That has a nasty little hook don't it. You going to weld it?


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## tree MDS (Mar 8, 2012)

swyman said:


> That has a nasty little hook don't it. You going to weld it?



Notice how the bolts are already exposed on the morbarks. That's what my dealer was was saying when I said I was concerned about the ones that are part exposed on mine (looks just like yours did). I think they're gonna just do like you did.. the mechanic only said two or three hours @ 75 an hour, so not too bad on that part.


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## swyman (Mar 8, 2012)

tree MDS said:


> Notice how the bolts are already exposed on the morbarks. That's what my dealer was was saying when I said I was concerned about the ones that are part exposed on mine (looks just like yours did). I think they're gonna just do like you did.. the mechanic only said two or three hours @ 75 an hour, so not too bad on that part.



I don't think the exposed nuts hurt a thing. Nothing appears to hit them or the treads would be messed up. Good deal on the repair!


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## Eq Broker (Mar 8, 2012)

My biggest concern would be that the knife is losing support and could break creating more damage. We all know what happens when metal goes through a machine. The same thing happens to anvils as the wood chips will erode the disc and the anvil. Anvils should be changed or flipped around 500-600 hours. Isn't it amazing how wood erodes steel.


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## swyman (Mar 8, 2012)

Eq Broker said:


> My biggest concern would be that the knife is losing support and could break creating more damage. We all know what happens when metal goes through a machine. The same thing happens to anvils as the wood chips will erode the disc and the anvil. Anvils should be changed or flipped around 500-600 hours. Isn't it amazing how wood erodes steel.



I'm amazed what water does to rock! Nature is the ultimate force.


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## 2treeornot2tree (Mar 8, 2012)

swyman said:


> That has a nasty little hook don't it. You going to weld it?



I dont know. It chips good, and I am not gonna keep it another 2500 hrs so i think it will be fine.


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## CUCV (Mar 8, 2012)

I've filled in the worn pockets on two of my chippers, they both ran smoother after the pockets were put back to there original state. Thought it might be worth having it balanced but didn't feel it was worth the $500. I used a 6", 7" and electric die grinder to get the corners cleaned up after welding.


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## swyman (Mar 8, 2012)

cucv said:


> i've filled in the worn pockets on two of my chippers, they both ran smoother after the pockets were put back to there original state. Thought it might be worth having it balanced but didn't feel it was worth the $500. I used a 6", 7" and electric die grinder to get the corners cleaned up after welding.



x2


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## DeAvilaTree (Mar 10, 2012)

My 280xp Bandit did the same thing I built it up with my welder, I get a better quality chip out of it.


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## woody harding (Dec 15, 2018)

Hello I am a brand new member and have this same worn cutter wheel problem with my 99 250 bandit its been clogging up and material gets jammed in the outer blades. I tried to run a search in the archives of this site ..I must be doing something wrong as most any search (250 bandit }
comes up with no results. It my thinking that the badly worn cutter wheel is causing the clogging problem. I have good sharp blades and a tight set clearance with the anvil. The anvil has the right edge but it is worn so that its time for a new one as it cannot be adjusted in anymore being to short after many re- serfacings. The worn area is just as the other member describe..that is its getting close the the cutter blade bolts.


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## Eq Broker (Dec 17, 2018)

Hi Woody,

Are you sure you have the right knives as there are 2 different sizes for bandit 250XP's. Your knife size should be 7.25 x 4 x 1/2. The gap between the blade and knife should be about a credit card thickness. Having sharp knives on a disc chipper is critical as it helps pull in the material.

Hope this helps!

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters
770-420-6400


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## woody harding (Dec 17, 2018)

hello Dave, yes these are the correct blades for the 99 . Good point for they do make a thinner blade for the 250. So this machine is really hammered and the disk is eroded almost to the bolts . I plan to weld the wheel with a 7018 welding rod and fill up the v shaped eroded area and then grind to size. The machine is getting debris jammed in the out most part of the outer blades. Am I correct in thinking that this erosion of the wheel is causing this material the be jamming up in the outer blades and also is allowing big material to get by the wheel for its a lousy chip that comes out of this machine. Thanks in advance for any help from the forum.


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## Eq Broker (Dec 17, 2018)

If you start filling holes in the disc, you could jeopardize the balance of the disc. If the disc isn't balanced, you'll start going through bearings and the chipper will jump up and down.


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## woody harding (Dec 17, 2018)

That is very true. I can't use the machine as it is so what should I do. I was thinking about the balance of the cutter wheel as the machine is not very smooth now. What about buttoning the machine cutter wheel housing and placing trial and error magnets on the wheel and run it slow with out blades and if I get it right just weld steel the same weight as the magnets and replace the magnets with same weight steel


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## Eq Broker (Dec 17, 2018)

A true balancing should be done at about 2,400-2,500 RPM's. Depending upon what engine you have. The Cummin's and Deere's run higher RPM's than the Cat/Perkins. I don't think the magnets will hold at that RPM. When disc's are out of balance, you'll notice different vibrations at different RPM's. When I have disc's balanced, they balance them without the bearings on the shaft and they also have new knives and bolts. They will not balance the disc without the new knives and hardware.


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## woody harding (Dec 17, 2018)

I do realize that you are very knowledgeable that I just should set aside five grand or so so and do this right way. Not going to happen at this juncture here in CT this winter. Can you tell me if this disk erosion is contributing in a major way to the clogging problem?


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## Eq Broker (Dec 17, 2018)

The disc erosion has nothing to do with it. Does it clog the chute? If it's clogging the chute, you may have a limb bridged in the chute that's blocking the chips. The chip size is controlled by the anvil clearance. What type of wood is causing the issues? Hickory is very tough to chip. You may also want to check the fan paddles on the disc for cracking as they can crack and not create the air needed to get the chips out. You may also want to look for any holes in the chute or the transition that leads up to the chute. A disc chipper creates more air than a drum chipper due to the fan paddles being bigger.

Hope this helps!

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters
770-420-6400


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## woody harding (Dec 17, 2018)

So... the dist erosion has nothing to do with clogging thank you I will look elsewhere and leave the wheel along for now.


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## no tree to big (Dec 17, 2018)

You should post some pics of your disk! If you have decently sharp blades regardless of the quality of your anvil unless it's not there at all? it shouldn't clog the blades. 

Run it clog it take a pic

No joke we had a chipper running an insane anvil clearance I'm talking like damn near a half inch we had zero clogging and minimal chip quality issues... 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


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