# New log splitter



## TreeJunkie (Feb 24, 2004)

Im looking into buying a new log splitter this year, and i just got a peak at the new rayco, w/ log lift and 4 way splitter , 25 ton, 13hp honda,,Is anyone familiar w/ this machine and how much it costs? What kind of machines are you all using out there,,,I'm pretty small time in the firewood business, probobally 20-30 cords a year....What do think would be the optimal type of splitter for myself?


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## hotrodusa (Feb 24, 2004)

A good place to learn about log splitters is www.northerntool.com 

They sell a book how to build a log splitter. 

I bought there book and built mine buying parts from them many years ago.

some key things to look at and learn about is the size ( diameter ) of the hydralic ram and what size pump ( GPM ) you'll need to make use of the size ram your using. 

I went with a 4" dia. x 24" ram and a 16 gallon per minute pump, and a 8Hp engine. Its very fast and works great, but the 4" dia cylinder is a little week for big knotty pieces of firewood.

If I had to make a small living doing firewood, ( money not much of a concern ) I would have a 5" dia. cylinder and a 22 or 28 gpm pump.
Should mention that the only way to go is a two-stage pump, a single stage pump will be too slow.............

The diameter of the ram is your power and the size ( gpm ) of the pump is your speed of the ram.
Also you need the correct control valve ( for log splitters ) to make all this work safely and effeciantly. 
Also, I run thin lightweight hydralic oil in the system to speed up things in cold weather.

go to this link and look it over, maybe get there catalog too.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...ogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&categoryId=1465


Good luck...................


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## treeman82 (Feb 24, 2004)

If I was in the market for a new log splitter to split ~30 cords of wood a year, I would be looking for a good sized Honda engine, the log arm thing, and a 2 and 4 way wedge with the ram to adjust the 4 piece sizes.


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## TreeJunkie (Feb 25, 2004)

Thanks for that link,,,,,I like the thirty ton, 13hp honda w / a 22gpm pump,,,, It seems nice, and it's nice it has the ability to place a slip on 4 way splitter.....


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## ScottyStump (Feb 26, 2004)

*Build it and you will split*

I am building my own right now.

11Hp Honda, 16 GPM pump 2 stage, massive cylinder.

This thing will split bowling balls, rocks and oh yes logs too.

You can probably find a splitter locally used and beef it up or modify it to your specs.


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## woodhog (Feb 26, 2004)

I just saw a pic of the new Rayco log splitter also. I have been looking heavily at the Timber Wolf TW-5, but I would like more info on the Rayco also.
I have a part time firewood business, and looking for a bigger splitter. Definately need the log lift.


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## MasterBlaster (Feb 26, 2004)

*Re: Build it and you will split*



> _Originally posted by ScottyStump _
> *
> 
> This thing will split bowling balls, rocks and oh yes logs too.
> ...




A hot splitter! Cool!  

I wanna see a V-eight!


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## lucky (Feb 27, 2004)

Grandfather in law has one with a 4cylinder wisconsin and a 6 or 8 inch(not sure) but big ram off a dozer. 30 gpm pump. The frame is two I beams welded together side by side. Hydraulic log lift from either side. It works well. 

I think building your own is the way to go if you want ultra heavy duty. John


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## Marky Mark (Feb 27, 2004)

http://www.timberwolfcorp.com/


I have the tw5 and a converoy from them. Well worth the money.


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## caryr (Feb 27, 2004)




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## Davidsinatree (Feb 27, 2004)

For tha average guy splitting wood to heat your home like me. When I started looking at splitters sold at the local farm supply I thought the bigger hp & tonage modles would be a must for me.
The 10 hp 33ton 4years ago was 1350.00. I wanted it real bad but I ended up buying the 5 hp 20 ton husky for 875.00 and have been very pleased with performance. No it does not have the log lift, but it does tilt up vertical. If you know where to start splitting there are very few chunks of wood that gets thrown to the side. I like mine very much.
For building a new homemade splitter there should be a formula to figure hp + ram size + pump 'gpm' = tons & ram speed.
Its only going to be as stronge as the weakest link. I would do a little research to make sure my parts match up to performance wanted or you could end up after much time and labor with performance no better than a 5hp 20 ton unit like mine.
IMO


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## woodhog (Feb 27, 2004)

I have looked at the Chomper processor, and it looks like a nice simple machine. I would go for it, but I buy low grade logs from some local mills.
Right now in my log yard, I have 8"- 10" cherry, and 18" - 26" maple and oak logs. Since my log dia. varies, The Chomper really wouldn`t work for me.
The pulp wood prices are really high here in PA where I live ( a local log yard is now paying $30 per ton), so I buy the junk logs at a decent price.
I am really leaning toward the Timber Wolf TW-5 with a 6 way wedge, log lift, and debris grate.
I also like the way the hitch is on the opposite end from the wedge.

Wood Hog


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## caryr (Feb 28, 2004)




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## caryr (Feb 28, 2004)




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## Chainsaw_Maniac (Feb 28, 2004)

I'm gonna have to disagree with most of the rest of these people.

I like a log splitter with a 9 hp and 55 ton for myself, or one powered by the hydrolics of a tractor. But then again I do about 600 cord a year.

For the amount of wood you are splitting I'd be looking at the smaller sizes in the 5-5.5 hp and 20-30 ton range. It's all you need and they have plenty of power. (Either get a good new one or a good used one).

By the way, I never heard that there was a splitter with a big 13 hp engine that only delivers 25 ton. 13 hp is usually asociated with 60+ ton.


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## eric_271 (Feb 29, 2004)

Im building a splitter also. I bought the 22gpm 2 stage pump. maximum operating pressure of this pump is 3000 lb. My cylinder is 5in by 26 in. Engine is 14 hp. Ports on the cylinder are three quarter. All 4 ports on the control valve are also three quarter. The cylinder was built to be able to operate at 3000 psi full time. The factory built spliters that have these same componets are listed at 34 ton. That may be at 2000 psi or 2500 psi im not for sure. Does any one know if that sounds rite for the set up Im useing? I plan on runing at 3000 psi.


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## jokers (Feb 29, 2004)

That link the caryr posted for the Chomper sure is cool. Only real problem that I see right off is that you are limited to 16" in log diameter, but I guess that isn`t unusual for a processor.

In reality, the biggest aides to production are the conveyor and dump truck or trailer. Sawing and splitting don`t seem to be limiting factors for me, but the multiple handling after it becomes firewood is what kills profit. I`ve also found that I can work much faster and longer with a horizontal splitter as opposed to a vertical. Tractor mounted splitters work well if you discount that you have to put all those hours on the tractor engine, which is normally way overpowered and fuel thirsty for the task at hand, but they typically are low to the ground and have a tendency to move around a bit too much for me.

Log lifters appeal to the man in us by giving us another mechanical gadget to "operate" but in reality are of dubious merit. They are normally opposite the operator side of the machine out of necessity, and consequently in the way of the person feeding the splitter the smaller rounds. I`ve also found that the mammoth rounds that a lifter will position for you are clumsy and inefficient to split. Any rounds that are too big to lift manually get split with a saw first. 

Anything under 10" is quicker to split in place with a maul.

Russ


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## Chainsaw_Maniac (Feb 29, 2004)

Ya, you're probably right about the log lifter Russ. It's much easier to saw any huge blocks through. Especially if you put a cross cut chain on a big saw and keep it on there only so long as you're splitting.

That's gonna be a great splitter eric. What do you figure all that will cost you? And how many hours of labor will you put in?


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## eric_271 (Feb 29, 2004)

About 1200 hundred dollers. Had the axel all ready. Dont know how much time to put together, no hurry I have all summer. The thing is everthing will be just the way I want it . Have you used a splitter that is to low, sure is hard on the back. The wedge will be on the rod not the end of the beem. I have some steel grate which will be a small tabel on both sides. On the larger logs when they split you can push one half over and keep working the other half, no bending over to pick up the other half when you are ready for it. This is the second splitter I built. First one was like this one except the I beem twist pretty bad. It dident bend just twist. The web was 16 inches, and thats to much. The new beem is 7 inches and 5/8 on the thickness. I have seen splitters like this for about 2800 dollers and some cheaper ones for 1700 dollers. I bet the cheaper ones flex some. I will post some pictures when I get it done.


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## Kleek (Mar 1, 2004)

I own a split-fire splitter. It splits in both directions, has a 4-way wedge and a log lifter. Mine is a 3-pt model that uses the tractor hydraulics. I have used one with the 9 hp Honda. Very fast and strong machines. Very well built. The log lift works well as a holding table for blocks not yet split, it will hold a lot of blocks so you can split a bunch without running back and forth. Check them out at www.split-fire.com.


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## Chainsaw_Maniac (Mar 1, 2004)

eric: That is pretty cheap on materials. It'll be nice.

I find that the differance between the cheap ones and the expensive ones is usually about the quality of the engine and the hydrolics.

Kleek: Split Fire makes a good splitter. Do you find that you take adavantage of splitting on both forward and back stroke? I find it's eaier to just split on one end of it considering how fast the cylander moves.


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## eric_271 (Mar 1, 2004)

chainsaw trust me if I had the money I would buy the closest splitter to what I want then pay someone els to to make it exactly the way I want it. However Im cursed with to many good parts laying around that need to be used.


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## Kleek (Mar 1, 2004)

chainsaw, I really like splitting both directions, but to really maximize it, I sometimes use up to 3 extra people to help. I use an old farm elevator under the splitter to move all the split wood. On the split-fire, the wood stays on the machine until I push it off, one-way splitters push the wood off the end of the machine, a real problem to me if it needs re-split. The design of the wedge moving thru the wood seems safer to me than vice-versa, probably isn't, though.


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## Chainsaw_Maniac (Mar 1, 2004)

Ya, I was just about to say before that if you aren't working alone I can see the advantage of splitting both ways.

As for safety, you may be right. On the other hand sometimes a piece of wood will suddenly split in half with such force that it actually gets thrown out of the splitter. So what ever style you have you don't want to be standing where it might get shot out.


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## caryr (Mar 1, 2004)




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## eric_271 (Mar 2, 2004)

Cary u can bet the wedge will be attached to the beem. Wedge will be welded to 1 inch thick steel plate 10 inches wide. the bottom of that plate will be milled a hair over 7 inches wide and about 9/16 deep. There will be 2 one inch thick plates for the bottom . each will have to be milled about 5/8 deep except the last inch and a half on each plate, that is what butts to the top plate. they are then drilled and tapped for 3 5/8 bolts each. slotting top and bottom plates is for guide and to keep the wedge from going any where but straight ahead. The top plates leading edge also has to be beveled back so the wedge has smooth transition into the log.


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## Chainsaw_Maniac (Mar 2, 2004)

Hi Cary,

I don't have a 2 stage pump on either of my tractors but my neighbor has it on his Ford which is about 100 HP. This kind of thing is internal to the tractor and can be chosen as an option when buying a high-end tractor. That's not a practical option cost wise except for farming.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Mar 2, 2004)

Brandon, (if you're still following this thread then) since you allready said the volume you wnt to work (are you planning on increasing it?) you need to look at how much money the machine will make you. Then go for one that you can afford.

I really like the Faver. The country club I worked for got one and love it for the productivity.






The lift is by the work station.

You can stack the big splits against the back wall to split multiple pieces easilly.

the 4 way wedge adjusts hydraulicly....

2 speed hydraulics...

It costs around 5 grand though....

Maybe for what you plan on doing a hardwear store two position rail would be the best. A maichine that is faster then a maul, but well within the budget to make you money.

If I remember right the TW-5 was in the same price range as the Faver.


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## caryr (Mar 2, 2004)




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## topnotchtree (Mar 2, 2004)

My foreman told me about a splitter his buddy built.He basically designed a cherry picker that mounted to the beam in a round post. The main boom was lifted with a hydraulic ram. There was a smaller boom that slid in the main boom. There was a set of tongs attached to the end.It sounded like it worked great. You first lowered the boom, pointing it downward allowed you to easily slide out the inner boom to reach the log. when you lifted the boom upright, the inner boom slid back in, hitting stoppers, that placed the lifted log right where it needed to be. The booms were mounted using round tubing so you could swing the booms whichever way you needed. I sure hope I am explaining this the way I picture it in my mind.


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## eric_271 (Mar 3, 2004)

Hi topnotchtree I understand what you are talking about and have considerd something close to that. My idea was a hyd gear moter hooked to a trolly to roll on the boom and to be run by the splitter pump how ever I think I am just going to build the splitter so I can stand it vertical when needed. SPLITez has a splitter real close to what Im building cept the steel is a little thicker on my beem and mine will have small tabels on both sides of the beem about two feet long and a foot and a half wide.


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## mr bobcatman (Feb 5, 2005)

*i also need some help and ideas!*

hi guys great site.i am also trying to put a splitter together i have a cylinder that came of a 331 (bobcat excavator) i know it extends 27 inches and it is about 5 inches across.i have a older 8 horse motor i found an H beam yesterday now i need some more parts and help i checked northern they have most of the parts any suggestions for the rest of the parts and how to put it together.time is not an issue i looked at store bought splitters and i don't care for the way they are built.i have to tow this on the highway and most of the store bought ones would be scary at 75 mph.like i said i love to read your posts i have learned alot already keep up the good job.thanks


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## eric_271 (Feb 6, 2005)

bobcatman Do a search on splitez log splitters. That is what Im baseing mine off of. There are a lot of different splitter styles also so take your time looking til you find something that works for you. With as big a cylinder as what you have, to run it fast you will need a pretty good gpm two stage pump. Both are important. Say 16 to 22 gpm at least and make sure it is a 2 stage pump. Post a pic when you get it done. New axel's dont cost that much. If you cant find a good used one go to a trailer supply and buy one.


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## mr bobcatman (Feb 7, 2005)

eric_271 thanks for the advice.i was going to use a 16gpm 2 stage pump but i will look into the 22 gpm and see what the engine requirements are. if you or other people have more suggestions please post them it is still early in my project so i have time to change things around.


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## mr bobcatman (Feb 7, 2005)

*splitting edges*

i have a question for all of you.how high or long do you make the splitting wedge?6,8,10 inches what works best!


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## eric_271 (Feb 7, 2005)

prob a 10 inch wedge or more. 8 hp will be ok for the 16 gpm but with as big a cylinder as you have it will be some what slower. On a 4 or 4 1/2 cylinder that 16 gpm and 8 hp will give you and one other person a pretty good work out. To get the 5 inch cylinder to run that fast will take the 22 gpm pump and 12 or 13 hp. Some people dont care how fast their splitter runs. I do and I dont want to kill a lot of time splitting a little wood.


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## SilentElk (Feb 8, 2005)

*Here's some tips for hydraulic systems.[/B]

Alot depends on how fast you want your machine to move. Someone earlier said it right: PSI = power and GPM = Speed. Rule of thumb for hydraulics, assuming 85% pump efficency, is as follows:

1HP=1 Gpm @ 1500 psi

Theoretically based on the above said to run 22 GPM at 2500 psi will require 36.6 Hp engine. This however is NOT for a 2 stage pump. This is your basic single stage hydraulic pump. 

The benefit of a 2 stage pump is the ability to gear down and provide higher PSI when a load is applied. A 2 stage pump will run at the higher flow until the pressure hits approx 650-750 psi. At which point the pump will gear down and provide approx 2500-3000 psi, 4 times higher than the 650-750, but the Gpm's (cylinder speed) will also be reduced by a factor of 4. On the higher pressure geared mode on a 22 gpm pump will move at 5.5 gpms.

Cylinder speeds*

4" bore @ 22 gpm = 405 in/per minute
4" bore @ 5.5 gpm= 101 in/per min.
5" bore @ 22 gpm = 259 in/per min.
5" bore @ 5.5gpm = 64.6 in/per min.
*these are for the push(power) stroke on cylinder. Retracting speeds will higher, with a large rod significantly higher, but vary dependant on rod diameter.

Power based on PSI and cylinder size

4" bore @ 750 psi = 9428 lbs
4" bore @ 3000 psi =37,710 lbs ( about 19 tons)
5" bore @ 750 psi = 14,730 lbs
5" bore @ 3000psi = 58,920 lbs (about 29.5 tons)

and for the Tim the tool man splitter...Hehe.... 14" bore @ 3000 psi = 461,700 lbs (231 tons!!  I had to throw that in there)

Now bore is the internal diameter of a cylinder. I would recommend a 5" unless you are strickly doing pine or other easy splitting woods then a 4" will run just fine. The rod diameter is the nice shiny part the extends from the cylinder. This is what pushes the wedge. I would not recommend a rod of less than 2" on either a 4" or 5" bore cylinder. They most likely will bend at some point. A rod of 3" would be slick though and provide insanely fast retract speeds but a rod that big could potentially add 50%, give or take, to the price of cylinder.

Now other considerations that are very often overlooked on people making their own machines is hose selection. Certain criteria must be met or you will be literally be throwing speed and energy away and in some case significantly heating you hydraulic system up beyond recommended temps shortening the life of all components and wasting gas in the engine.

Pressure loss at given flow rates

10 gpm w/ 3/8" hose will drop 185 psi
10 gpm w/ 1/2" hose will drop 73 psi

20 gpm w/ 1/2" hose will drop 146 psi
20 gpm w/ 3/4" hose will drop 47 psi
20 gpm w/ 1" hose will drop 14 psi

25 gpm w/ 1/2" hose will drop 180 psi
25 gpm w/ 3/4" hose will drop 59 psi
25 gpm w/ 1" hose will drop 23 psi

These pressure drops are per 100 feet of hose. To get close to specific flow losses, look at what hose you desire to use for your pressure line and add 15 feet of hose length for each fitting the fluid must pass through. Now add 15 feet for each 90 deg fitting. Now add the length of the actual hose. Now do the same for your return line. Take the total number of feet between them both and divide by 100 feet. Now multiply the remaining number by the psi numbers given above. 

Typically most systems are made from 1/2" but will loss about 180-240 psi due to friction. This friction wil be dissapated into heat and in some cases can cause chattering of a hose if the hose is quite bit under sized. Chattering hoses will rub and fail very fast potentially causing injury and sometimes burns if the system was run to long and system became super heated. 

A loss of 200 psi means this to a logsplitter: the 2 stage pump will kick in at 200 psi lower, around 450-550 psi. This lower psi means your 2 stage pump will gear down when a much smaller amount of resistance to the cylinder in encountered. So instead of splitting easy stuff nice and fast it will gear down. Ever had your logger splitterbounce between fast and slow speed? This is one common cause. I personally would use 1/2" hoses at 15 psi and less. For pumps rated higher 3/4" hose to about 30ish gpms will work. Very important- make sure you hoser that runs to push stroke of the cylinder is rated for a working pressure of 3000 psi or greater. This is the down side of 3/4" hose since it costs about 2-3 times as much per foot as 1/2" hose. I should know, I sold around 23,000 hydraulic fittings this last year.

This took forever to write up but hope someone will make a little use of it. 

PS- Hydraulic supplies off Ebay are a great way to go. I just spent $930 the other day on there buying stuff from a guy. All brand new. He saved me close to $700 dollars. And that's with the almost wholesale pricing I get too!

Best'o'luck!*


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## eric_271 (Feb 8, 2005)

Silentelk Say your ports in the cylinder and control valve are 1/2 inch. Can you push more oil gpm through a 1 inch line reduced down too 1/2 inch then a 1/2 inch hose bolted up to half inch ports? I may be wrong on this but for the purpose of speed just adding a larger hose will not gain you that much if you have to reduce down because of smaller port size. Woulden't the one inch hose on a half inch port be the same as a restricter? Like I say my thoughts may be off on that but when I had my 5 inch cylinder built I told them to weld in 3/4 inch ports to match the 3/4 inch ports in the control valve.


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## ray benson (Feb 8, 2005)

TreeCo said:


> Another rule of thumb is to have 3 times the resivior than your GPM to allow air to rise out of the oil before it's sucked back into the pump causing cavitation.


I have run across the 3 gal tank capacity for each 1 gal pump capacity rule of thumb. But I believe that is for continuous duty
hydraulic systems in industrial plants.I have also read to use the 1 gal tank capacity for each gal of pump capacity.The 
commercially built logsplitters are lucky to follow the 1 to 1 rule.Most use about 1/2 gal tank capacity for each gal of pump
capacity.To keep the air in the system to a minimum - the line going back to the tank should discharge the oil BELOW the 
oil level in the tank.
Here are a few companies making quality splitters - you can see their specs and use them as a guideline
http://www.timberwolfcorp.com/splitters/product_line.htm
http://www.logsplitters-ironoak.com...t=&PHPSESSID=a1d9828a86137a9cf3fbf4fd5fcccce1
http://www.logsplitters-ironoak.com...df?PHPSESSID=a1d9828a86137a9cf3fbf4fd5fcccce1
http://www.tricountysupply.com/stor..._Code=Brave0234/HondaGXES&Category_Code=Brave
Ray


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## SilentElk (Feb 8, 2005)

eric_271 said:


> Silentelk Say your ports in the cylinder and control valve are 1/2 inch. Can you push more oil gpm through a 1 inch line reduced down too 1/2 inch then a 1/2 inch hose bolted up to half inch ports? I may be wrong on this but for the purpose of speed just adding a larger hose will not gain you that much if you have to reduce down because of smaller port size. Woulden't the one inch hose on a half inch port be the same as a restricter? Like I say my thoughts may be off on that but when I had my 5 inch cylinder built I told them to weld in 3/4 inch ports to match the 3/4 inch ports in the control valve.



You are right for the most part. The 1/2" ports in the cylinder often are a point of restriction however since it is such a short gap often you can force the fluid with minimal loss. In such cases it is better to have 3/4" hose but you won't gain nearly as much as you could if the ports were 3/4" too.


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## woodho (Feb 8, 2005)

Guys,
There is a lot of fancy calculations in this post. I've had the opportunity to use alot of the splitters out there. I bought the TW5 from Timberwolf. You will never look back. This splitter is incredible. Its not even their biggest. Is it expensive? Yes. However, if you want to do firewood seriously and not as a hobby (30+ cords yr). Then don't screw around in your shop building machines that you will outgrow in a couple of yrs. Get out in the woods split firewood and make money.

John D.


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## SilentElk (Feb 8, 2005)

Oh and yes the 3 gal tank per 1 gpm rating are correct. Though this is used mainly for fixed station hydraulic systems such as those found in manufacturing plants. Also to need 3 gal tank per gpm you would also need to run the run it fairly continuously. If you have a fixed hydraulic system but it runs sporadic and rarely more than 20 minutes at a stretch then much less is fine. As far as log splitters go, I would just do a tank equal to gpms. More is prefferable but less will even work fine since the air circulates much better outside.


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## ray benson (Feb 8, 2005)

This place has cylinders, valves, tanks, hoses, pumps and more. Sort of a hydraulic wish book.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?UID=2005020814293736&catname=hydraulic&keyword=HDD1


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## eric_271 (Feb 8, 2005)

woodho LOL if I had a splitter that split that much wood I would have Kansas clearcut in 2 or 3 years. My need's are not that great but thats not to say my splitter won't be a great splitter and I get a kick out of screwing around in the shop and some other places also.


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## ray benson (Feb 8, 2005)

TreeCo said:


> I'm looking for a valve that once started by hand completes one whole cycle and is ready for the next log.



Look at the Prince valve RD5200
http://www.princehyd.com/products/product.asp?gcode=stvm
“AUTO-CYCLE” TWO SPOOL VALVE
This valve is a modified RD-5200 two spool valve that can be used to automatically cycle a hydraulic cylinder. The spools and the valve body have been modified to provide this function. Both spools have the pressure release detent spool attachment. The “B” port is connected to the base of the cylinder. The “A” and “D” ports are tied together and connected to the rod end of the cylinder. The “C” port is plugged. At the beginning of the cycle the cylinder is fully retracted. To begin the cycle both handles are pulled back. Oil is directed to the “B” port and the cylinder will extend until it reaches the end of its stroke. At this point the pressure will build to the detent release pressure and the first spool will center to neutral. Now the oil will go through the open center core to the second spool and is directed out the “D” port to retract the cylinder. When the cylinder reaches the full retract position the pressure will build to the detent release pressure and the second spool will center to neutral. This completes the cycle. To begin the next cycle both handles are again manually pulled back. Please note this valve does not have the loadcheck feature of the standard RD5200 valve. Also the “B” port is open to tank in neutral.

In the Auto-Cyle manual page 6 shows an example of how it would be piped.


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## mr bobcatman (Feb 8, 2005)

wow thats alot of great information you guys gave out that will help alot.eric-271 the cylinder does have 3/4 inch fittings.what is the minimum horse power for a 22gpm pump with my cylinder?thanks guys keep writing!!


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## mr bobcatman (Feb 8, 2005)

silent elk that is a great description for hyd keep it up i am learning so much for all of you what a site i just love it!


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## tnttreeman (Feb 8, 2005)

*Rayco splitter*

The local Rayco rep stopped by my place the other day and gave me their booklet with the LS 2526 Log Splitter. I think this is the one that the thread originally asked about, costwise and so forth. This machine runs between $5000-$6000, closer to the latter.


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## eric_271 (Feb 8, 2005)

bobcatman It's been a while since I looked but I think 10 hp is on the small side to run the 22gpm two stage and a 13 or 14 hp engine should run it with out taxing the engine. Dont short change your cylinder with a control valve that has half inch ports. The control valve that ray has a link to would be a good choice. I bought my control valve with the 3/4 inch ports through northern but it does not feed auto either direction but I do prefer it over the other.


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## mr bobcatman (Feb 8, 2005)

*control valve*



eric_271 said:


> bobcatman It's been a while since I looked but I think 10 hp is on the small side to run the 22gpm two stage and a 13 or 14 hp engine should run it with out taxing the engine. Dont short change your cylinder with a control valve that has half inch ports. The control valve that ray has a link to would be a good choice. I bought my control valve with the 3/4 inch ports through northern but it does not feed auto either direction but I do prefer it over the other.


eric_271 i found this valve how would this work?http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...y?xsell=1057&storeId=6970&productId=472&R=472


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## Crofter (Feb 9, 2005)

Here is a rough idea what kind of cycle times 22 gpm will give on a 4 " bore cylinder. Unless you are going to go to a multiple split wedge, I dont think you will ever need larger. The slower cycle time of the larger cylinder would more often be a negative than the odd time you need that power. Here I am stacking blocks. An auto feed would be nice sometimes but it is some hazard too. Power here is a 530 case bachoe, dipper circuit valve, about 45 hp so a two stage pump is not needed.


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## mr bobcatman (Feb 9, 2005)

*nice video (crofter)*



Crofter said:


> Here is a rough idea what kind of cycle times 22 gpm will give on a 4 " bore cylinder. Unless you are going to go to a multiple split wedge, I dont think you will ever need larger. The slower cycle time of the larger cylinder would more often be a negative than the odd time you need that power. Here I am stacking blocks. An auto feed would be nice sometimes but it is some hazard too. Power here is a 530 case bachoe, dipper circuit valve, about 45 hp so a two stage pump is not needed.


i like the video could you take video of the rest of the splitter so i can get some more ideas!


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## mr bobcatman (Feb 9, 2005)

*smaller cylinder update*

guys i found a different cylinder.here are the specs i found for this cylinder the piston is 2.994 inches the rod is 1.760 inches the rod will extend 26 inches .now with this cylinder what do i need for a pump (gpm) and will a 8 horse work? thanks for all the great reading.if i did cut and split for a living i would look at the tw5 but i only split for my own use and help a few of my friends.


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## eric_271 (Feb 9, 2005)

bobcatman I ran a 16 gpm on my old splitter with 4 or 4 1/2 inch cylinder and it ran as fast as I wanted it to. My 5 inch will run as fast but thats because of the larger pump and the 3/4 inch ports on the cylinder and control valve. The 8 hp will run the 16 gpm pump just fine.


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## Crofter (Feb 9, 2005)

An 8 horse wont make a fast splitter. Smaller bores at higher pressure will work, but higher pressure pumps are more expensive and high pressure hose also > expensive. With any of the smaller than 10 horse motors a dual stage pump is a must or else they have to be geared or pump sized such that they are painfully slow. Pretty well covered earlier in the thread. There are no free lunches and everything is a tradeoff. Copy a proven slide design if you are building. That is a weak spot and I have seen some that would jamb and bind under load or pull apart. Below is a pic of the Rube Goldberg handle I rigged to reaach the controll valve. Next year I plan to install quick connects and put a didicated control valve on the splitter as well as wheels and a hitch. This was just a quick and dirty solution.


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## mr bobcatman (Feb 9, 2005)

*great advice (eric_271)*

the cylinder has 3/4 inch fittings but the port holes are 1/2 inch according to the print i found on the cylinder what will this do if anything?thanks again guys i am learning as much as i can before i start the project.i also had a wedge made out of a piece of 1 x 8 bar stock i asked a friend to do it he said he has done several before and knows the perfect angle to bevel it at it will be 8 inches high to.


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## eric_271 (Feb 9, 2005)

LOL I guess my splitter was a freak of nature Frank and it did keep two guys hopping. I thought about using my bachoe but I dont want the extra hours on the engine or the cost for fuel just to split wood. There is way more then an 8 hp or a bachoe too makeing a wood splitter go fast. Its a combo of things. cylinder, pump, engine, port sizes on cylinder and control valve port size. Matched componets frank.


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## eric_271 (Feb 9, 2005)

bobcatman Those are 1/2 inch ports so the 22gpm might be overkill. The 16 gpm pump would prob be more inline. You also want to make sure your control valve can be adjusted on the by pass side to a high enough pressure to reach desired splitting pressure. If the pressure is lower then what the pump can produce and cant be adjusted up you will not get the full potential of the pump. Make sure the bypass valve can be adjusted up to match max working pressure of the pump.


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## Crofter (Feb 9, 2005)

And dual stage pump, right? Course we don't know how much it takes to keep you and your buddy hopping ! Lol! I agree with matching the components, and making a good compromise; still there are no free lunches. Someone mentioned using a 100 lb flywheel with a rather small enginge. That is an interesting concept to get around the tradeoff between stalling and ram speed.


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## eric_271 (Feb 9, 2005)

Frank yes on the 2 stage pump. Now days just bending over to tie my shoes leaves me feeling like Ive been hopping. You know as well as I do more then any one thing gpm dictates the speed and the hp to make it happen. 16 gpm is not slow and granted it is not going to be as fast as your 30 or 40 gpm bachoe, not everyone is blessed with that kind of hp to run their splitter but remember SPEED KILLS.


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## Crofter (Feb 9, 2005)

Eric I think it is only around 25 gpm at 2150 rpm. I usually dont run it much above idle. I think my primary relief is around 2250 psi and that wont stall the engine even at idle. You would laugh at my cylinder. I made it from scratch, but was not too fussy about internal threading for the gland ( my old lathe has no stops or auto kickoff ) so I welded in the head and assembled through the bottom and then welded in the base. It is a no maintenance cyl. Course with new shafting and seals I wont be worrying about that for a while.


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## eric_271 (Feb 9, 2005)

No way will I laugh if it's home made and it works. Thats time well spent in your shop and more money in your pocket instead of a cylinder manufacturer. Wish I could have done that on mine. Need to get me a lathe.


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## mr bobcatman (Feb 9, 2005)

*control valve*

will this one work?http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...y?xsell=1057&storeId=6970&productId=472&R=472 and i wanted to use this pump?  http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...oductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=678&R=678 let me know what you think!


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## eric_271 (Feb 9, 2005)

bobcatman Both look pretty good. That 16 gpm 2 stage is for a 4 or 4 1/2 inch cylinder. I meant to tell you away's back that the 16 gpm 2 stage on a 5 inch cylinder is going to run noticebly slower. Takes more gpm to make the 5 inch run as fast as the 4 inch.


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## mr bobcatman (Feb 10, 2005)

*parts list*

(Eric_271) well i am glad the parts should work now i have to find a few more parts and i can start this spring i hope.i have to get my motor in for a check up it has set for 15 years.if you guys come up with anymore good ideas let me know i will be reading daily.thanks to all!


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## tawilson (Feb 10, 2005)

Good thread. I've got a decent homemade splitter already, and am looking for ways to upgrade and improve it. Has anyone added any processor features to their splitters? I've got enough steel sitting around to build a log deck. The cut off saw would definitely be the tricky part.


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## Johnboy (Feb 21, 2005)

Doesn't anyone make a splitter with a greater than 25" stroke? The stove I'm getting takes 32" wood but my splitter only takes 25". A local trimmer just delivered 3 loads cut to 28" per my request...guess there'll be a good pile of "cookies" soon.

jb


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## ray benson (Feb 22, 2005)

Several companies make splitters with 30", 36", 48" rams. Even saw one that max was 10 ft.But with the optional longer rams your talking dollars.Maybe with some creative stacking in the firebox you could utilize 16"-24" wood and keep your present splitter?
Here is a start looking at some companies making the longer stroke splitters.
http://www.logging-tools.com/NorthStar42TonLogSplitter18HP.html
http://www.logging-tools.com/NorthStar30TonLogSplitter13HP.html
Some models here can be ordered with optional 30", 36" or 48" rams.
http://www.americanmsr.com/
How is 10 ft. max log length http://www.vallpro.com/splitters/tw10/tw10.htm
Ray


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## Johnboy (Feb 22, 2005)

Thanks - Mannnn..I never found these guys on Google search. Bottom line is..your suggestion of sticking with 24" lengths will win out over $5,000 splitters. I've already started cutting the cookies off the stuff that is already cut. Heck..those 30" pieces get hard on the old back anyways. 

Thanks Ray
p.s. Still with Asleep at the Wheel? <G>
cheers
jb in bboo


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## ray benson (Feb 22, 2005)

Sorry John, I am not the King of Western Swing or related to him.  Had me going for awhile.
Ray


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## marinab (Mar 29, 2005)

*Horizontal or Horizontal/Vertical*

Hi guys, 

been reading the threads about new splitters and I am in the same situation. Been looking at the Ram Splitters (www.ramsplitter.com and timberwolf). My biggest question at this point is which is better: a HORIZONTAL/VERTICAL or the HORIZONTAL.

I have always used the H/V before - where the wedge is attached to the cylinder. Obviously you can't put a 4 way wedge on the H/V......

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks


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## logjammin (Oct 25, 2005)

sorry for diggin up an old thread. ive been lurking here for a while and just decided to register. im in the process of building a splitter now and was wondering what people were using for motor couplers. im running a 9HP Honda engine with a 1" shaft and a Haldex 16GPM pump with a .500" shaft. ive looked at northerns site with no luck. also looked at the lovejoy couplers and cant seem to find a set that will go from 1" to .500" most are the same size at each end or within an eight inch of each other. thanx in advance


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## ray benson (Oct 25, 2005)

Here is a few places to look. Lovejoy couplings.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...=mode+matchallpartial&Dx=mode+matchallpartial
Grainger - jaw type couplings
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/se...tegory=/Motors+&+Power+Transmission/Couplings
Baileynet- page 63 , jaw couplers in the pdf catalog.
http://baileynet.com/links/catalog.pdf


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## eric_271 (Oct 25, 2005)

They must not be showing a full listing for the love joy cause you can get the one inch for the engine and half inch for the pump. Call northern and see if they stock them and if they dont have them order them or contact another outlet for love joy. If you have a local bearing supply in town they should have them also in all sizes.


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## tawilson (Oct 25, 2005)

They got it. That's what my setup is. They only sell 1/2 the coupling. Go to the page Ray linked and order one of each, and an insert.


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## logjammin (Oct 25, 2005)

thanx fellas. found what i need. for some reason i couldnt find it before. 

also, anyone know how my speed will be with a 16 GPM pump and a 5" cylinder. i have a feeling i might kick myself in the ass for not going with the 22GPM pump. i cant wait to start splitting!!


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## ray benson (Oct 25, 2005)

Hydraulic calculator about halfway down the page.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulic.htm


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## Menchhofer (Oct 25, 2005)

I have used both types. Vertical and horizontal splitters. I purchased a vertical for it made sense it would be easier on the back. However, I did not like it. Too much effort is spent moving very large pieces around on the ground. For small pcs it was fine though.
Sold the vertical, went back to the horizontal with the log lift and 4 or 6 way wedge.
Have not one regret.


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## DanManofStihl (Oct 25, 2005)

I have two splitter now a old home made 8hp briggs and stratton and a northstar 24 ton vertical and horizontal. I love the northstar I bought it and it had a old motor on it so I replaced that with a 8 hp honda and that thing splits wood very fast. This thing splits the wood 2 or 3 times faster then my other homemade splitter. I like not having to pick the log up or standup with a vert I can just roll it over sit down on another piece and split. I think the Northstar is the way to go they seem to have good design and craftsman ship unlike their electric tools and other junk. I wouldnt hesitate to buy another splitter from them.


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## logjammin (Oct 26, 2005)

ray benson said:


> Hydraulic calculator about halfway down the page.
> http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulic.htm




awesome link bud. thanx!! 

looks like ill have a 7.6 second extend time (with no load)
and a 6.3 second retract time. i think i might be able to deal with that.


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## SWI Don (Oct 30, 2005)

One thing no one has mentioned that will speed up cycle time if you are doing wood < length of your stroke. ie 16-18" wood on a 24" stroke splitter. Go to your local farm supply and get some cylinder depth spacers. Farmers use them to set the retract stroke on farm equipment. My buddies splitter has a pipe with a stack of them on the axle of different thicknesses. You advance the cylinder until the throat is a little wider than your longest piece and stab spacers in to take up the extra stroke. It doesn't speed up the cylinder but since you have cut down your stroke your cut down your cycle time.

Don


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## Whiteindustries (Oct 30, 2005)

*Thats a heck of an idea!!!!*



SWI Don said:


> One thing no one has mentioned that will speed up cycle time if you are doing wood < length of your stroke. ie 16-18" wood on a 24" stroke splitter. Go to your local farm supply and get some cylinder depth spacers. Farmers use them to set the retract stroke on farm equipment. My buddies splitter has a pipe with a stack of them on the axle of different thicknesses. You advance the cylinder until the throat is a little wider than your longest piece and stab spacers in to take up the extra stroke. It doesn't speed up the cylinder but since you have cut down your stroke your cut down your cycle time.
> 
> Don



Thanks for the insight Don.I think I'll try that out.
Allan


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## tawilson (Oct 31, 2005)

yeah, I've been trying to do that with clamps and such, didn't realize there was a product made to do it!


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## jokers (Oct 31, 2005)

tawilson said:


> yeah, I've been trying to do that with clamps and such, didn't realize there was a product made to do it!



Yup! Tractor Supply has them here.

Russ


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## logjammin (Oct 31, 2005)

thats also a good idea for a sort of go-no go gauge. space it up to what your fireplace will allow then you will know if certain logs will fit beore you split them. i hate it when i go to fill the fireplace and half the logs dont even fit. :angry2:


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## SWI Don (Nov 1, 2005)

They are typically aluminum so scratching your chrome plated cylinder rod shouldn't be much of a problem. As long as your don't have some serious grit embeded in them. They typically ride along with the rod so there is not much relative movement.

logjammin

I have used them for just that purpose. I sometimes get a little greedy when I am cutting and some of the pieces get big. When they don't fit throw them to the side.

Don


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## howel07264 (Jan 21, 2006)

SilentElk said:


> *Here's some tips for hydraulic systems.[/B]
> 
> Alot depends on how fast you want your machine to move. Someone earlier said it right: PSI = power and GPM = Speed. Rule of thumb for hydraulics, assuming 85% pump efficency, is as follows:
> 
> ...


*

great info! i replaced the pump on my stumper with a higher gpm unit and made it much faster. speed= MONEY!!!......regan*


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## 046 (Feb 24, 2006)

good info..

what model is the currently most bang for the buck?

harbor freight has this for $1,100
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91840


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## 046 (Feb 28, 2006)

anyone familiar with current harbor freight offering?

they've got a 30ton with robin motor for $1,100

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91840


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## DeanBrown3D (Mar 1, 2006)

splitez makes a decent splitter, all honda engines and the big ones have commercial pumps. This one is the 34 tonner:







11 second cycle time


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## 046 (Mar 1, 2006)

splitez sure looks like an excellent machine, but 34 ton unit is $4K. way more that I want to spend.


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## v8titan (Mar 11, 2006)

046 said:


> anyone familiar with current harbor freight offering?
> 
> they've got a 30ton with robin motor for $1,100
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91840




I'm curious to know how this 30 Ton Harbor Freight unit performs also. In general, Harbor does not have the highest quality stuff, but that Robin engine is good quality and the pump is a name brand as well. Sure would like to hear from someone who has one.

Tom


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## mdlmjohnson (Mar 11, 2006)

*harborfreight splitter*

046: I know nothing specific about the splitter you asked about, but I would get much more in the way of specs and details, if I were you, before I bought it. A 30 ton splitter usually uses a 5" bore cylinder and develops about 30 tons at 3000psi, the max at which most cylinders used in splitters are rated. 

I downloaded the manual on the Harborfreight splitter and it uses a 4.5" cylinder. That cylinder can only generate 47,700# of ram force at 3000psi and that is slightly under 24 tons. There is no way that a 4.5" cylinder, operating at usual hydraulic pressures, can generate 30 tons. 

Moreover, the 1 3/4" rod is pretty marginal for a cylinder that generates that force. I have a 2 1/2" rod in the 5"bore cylinder that I am using in the splitter that I am building. 

Also, a splitter that can generate even 24 tons (not to speak of 30) needs to have a pretty strong structure or it will be subject to twisting (deflection in the beam) at maximum pressures. The spec doesn't say the beam size, but it looks like about a 5 1/2" I beam. H beams are stronger and by way of contrast I am using an 8x8 H beam on the 30 ton splitter that I am building. I'm not saying that this is necessary; I've probably overdesigned mine, but anything less than a 6x6 with reenforcing gussets and endplates may not be adequate. 

Finally, the manual specs say that it has a 2.5 gal hydraulic reservoir. That is very thin for a 16gpm pump; the usual rule of thum is 1 gal of reservoir for each gpm of pump capacity. The reason is the need to dissipate the fluid's heat. Excessive heat may build up in the hydraulic fluid, especially under heavy or continuous operation. Heat buildup is increased by smaller diameter hydraulic tubing and the specs do not disclose the size of the tubing/hoses.

Bottom line is that there are lots of ways to save $$ when building a splitter but lots of them affect the quality and durability of the machine in important ways. Generally, you get what you pay for. Were it me, a splitter is not a machine that I would try to cut corners or save $ on. I'm not saying that the HF splitter won't do its job; I haven't inspected or used one and I don't know; but the description of it leaves me with enough doubts so that I wouldn't spend my money on it without a lot more information.

Hope this helps. Good luck.


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## DDM (Mar 11, 2006)

I didnt know harbor freight sold anything that wasnt a quality import.


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 11, 2006)

I downloaded the manual on the Harborfreight splitter and it uses a 4.5" cylinder. That cylinder can only generate 47,700# of ram force at 3000psi and that is slightly under 24 tons. There is no way that a 4.5" cylinder, operating at usual hydraulic pressures, can generate 30 tons. 


You are correct if you are figuring pressure on the surface area of the ram. But you also must then figure out how many square inches the face of your wedge is, the point I mean because thats where all that tonnage is being applied to.


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## mdlmjohnson (Mar 11, 2006)

*ramforce*

CaseyF, I'm not sure that I'm following you. The total ram force doesn't (I think) get any greater or less, regardless of the area of the area of either the wedge or the push plate. Since the wedge itself is generally sharpened the area of the knife edge is negligable and thus the ram's force is concentrated on a very small area indeed. As for the push plate (on splitters where the wedge is fixed and the cylinder/rod pushes the log into it) I don't think the ram force isn't either increased or decreased by the area of the push plate.

Have I got this wrong? Or am I just misunderstanding your point. I thought that the "tonnage" of a log splitter was the ram force generated by the cylinder and that, I think, is solely a function of the cylinder area multiplied by the pressure (in psi) of the hydraulic fluid.

You're obviously more experienced and knowledgeable about this stuff than I am, so I would appreciate your patience in explaining what I have missed.


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## 046 (Mar 11, 2006)

thanks... this helps a ton!

ratings can and do get inflated. sure would like to hear from someone who has owned one of these. 



mdlmjohnson said:


> 046: I know nothing specific about the splitter you asked about, but I would get much more in the way of specs and details, if I were you, before I bought it. A 30 ton splitter usually uses a 5" bore cylinder and develops about 30 tons at 3000psi, the max at which most cylinders used in splitters are rated.
> 
> I downloaded the manual on the Harborfreight splitter and it uses a 4.5" cylinder. That cylinder can only generate 47,700# of ram force at 3000psi and that is slightly under 24 tons. There is no way that a 4.5" cylinder, operating at usual hydraulic pressures, can generate 30 tons.
> 
> ...


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 12, 2006)

mdlmjohnson said:


> CaseyF, I'm not sure that I'm following you. The total ram force doesn't (I think) get any greater or less, regardless of the area of the area of either the wedge or the push plate. Since the wedge itself is generally sharpened the area of the knife edge is negligable and thus the ram's force is concentrated on a very small area indeed. As for the push plate (on splitters where the wedge is fixed and the cylinder/rod pushes the log into it) I don't think the ram force isn't either increased or decreased by the area of the push plate.
> 
> Have I got this wrong? Or am I just misunderstanding your point. I thought that the "tonnage" of a log splitter was the ram force generated by the cylinder and that, I think, is solely a function of the cylinder area multiplied by the pressure (in psi) of the hydraulic fluid.
> 
> You're obviously more experienced and knowledgeable about this stuff than I am, so I would appreciate your patience in explaining what I have missed.




Allright, if you have a 4 in cylinder, the surface area of the ram inside the cylinder is 12.56 sq in. If you are running 2500psi you have a 31,400 pounds of splitting force.....On the cylinder. Now, the surface area of the knife edge on your wedge is not 12.56 sq in, its WAY les than that, so the tonnage on your cylinder gets mutiplied slightly. Lets say that the area of the knife edge is 1.4 sq i, then you multiply your 31,400 by the 1.4 and you get your tonnage at the wedge....which comes to just under 44,000, which equates to 22 ton. 22 ton is normal for a 4" splitter.


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## v8titan (Mar 12, 2006)

TreeCo said:


> Pounds of splitting force equals= (hydraulic pressure in psi) X (piston surface area in sq. in.). I have never heard of the size, shape or color of the wedge entering into the calculations but it may be how HF does their calculations.



I agree with TC. Splitting force is spec'd in force (pounds) not in force per unit area (pounds/sq. In). Therefor bringing the area of the splitting wedge back into the equation means absolutely nothing in determining the total force that the ram is capable of generating. I'm not sure how the HF guys get away with claiming that their unit is 30 tons unless they are running abnormally high pressures which is not likely.


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## v8titan (Mar 12, 2006)

I did a litte more research myself on the HF splitters. For me, I just plan to split 4 to 6 cords per year so I'm not looking for a production machine. Someone said that the oil resevior should have 1 gal of oil per each GPM flow rate to allow for heat disipation. This may be true for a production machine that is running many hours at a clip. I see myself splitting maybe an hour at a time or so and don't really worry too much about overheating the oil. Maybe you need to keep an eye on that.

Here is a thought I had about how the HF splitter is spec'd. To generate 30 tons of force ie. 60,000 lbs with a 4.5" cylinder, you need oil pressure of 3774 PSI. This may not be unrealistic. I visited the Haldex web site, they use these pumps on the HF splitters, and found that there are 2 stage pumps that max out a 4000 PSI. The problem I have is that I don't know what model pump the HF splitter uses. Another interesting thing I noticed is the 24 ton HF splitter (91839) has an 11 GPM pump and the total unit weight of 498 lbs. The 30 ton unit uses the same 9 hp motor and what appears to be the same 4.5 inch cylinder but it has a 16 GPM pump; this unit weighs in at 663 lbs. Obviously they beefed up something to allow for the higher splitting force, my guess is the I beam is heavier. Maybe it is running at the higher pressures after all.


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## v8titan (Mar 12, 2006)

Ok. Here is one of the design flaws I see with this splitter after doing more research. When the splitter is in the horizontal position, the split wood coming off the rail will be falling right on the top of the pump where the hose exits. If you look at many of the other splitter designs out there, the pump is on the opposite side of the unit. Say for example you load on a hunker of a log and it accidentally rolls off on pump side of the splitter, it may potentially land on the top of the pump assembly that is cantilevered off the motor. Over time I'm sure the split logs catching the output hose at the pump will not be good either. This is a bad design in my opinion.


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## DeanBrown3D (Mar 12, 2006)

Yep v8titan I agree that's a terrible design. The engine should be transverse, perpendicular to the bar, and the pump should be under the beam.

(Hey v8 where abouts in NJ are you?)


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## v8titan (Mar 12, 2006)

DeanBrown3D said:


> Yep v8titan I agree that's a terrible design. The engine should be transverse, perpendicular to the bar, and the pump should be under the beam.
> 
> (Hey v8 where abouts in NJ are you?)



I'm up here in Watchung. That's Near Summit/Berkeley Heights area.


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## musher (Mar 12, 2006)

DeanBrown3D said:


> Yep v8titan I agree that's a terrible design. The engine should be transverse, perpendicular to the bar, and the pump should be under the beam.


I've got a NorthStar (Northern), and they just have the engine and pump swung around on the other side (on the left, if you were towing it), and the pump is on the forward side, not the rearward like this one.

It also seems to me that where the controls are mounted for this unit is less than optimal. They seem a bit low when its running horizontally.


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## DeanBrown3D (Mar 12, 2006)

v8titan said:


> I'm up here in Watchung. That's Near Summit/Berkeley Heights area.


I've been there - unfortunately it not somewhere I seem to get to much. Pop by one day if you're in Princeton I'll show you the split-ez 

Dean


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 12, 2006)

TreeCo said:


> Pounds of splitting force equals= (hydraulic pressure in psi) X (piston surface area in sq. in.). I have never heard of the size, shape or color of the wedge entering into the calculations but it may be how HF does their calculations.



Yeah...now that I stop and think about it....I guess you all are correct.


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## v8titan (Mar 12, 2006)

DeanBrown3D said:


> I've been there - unfortunately it not somewhere I seem to get to much. Pop by one day if you're in Princeton I'll show you the split-ez
> 
> Dean



Dean,

What is a split-ez? Is that a brand of splitter? I did a search on yahoo and came up with zip.

Tom


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## DeanBrown3D (Mar 12, 2006)

Tom - go back one page that's my bro using the green split-ez.

www.splitez.com


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## v8titan (Mar 12, 2006)

DeanBrown3D said:


> Tom - go back one page that's my bro using the green split-ez.
> 
> www.splitez.com



Now that's a nice splitter!! Commercial grade with plenty of power. I'm looking for something a little smaller that I can split a few cords per year with. Still toying with the idea of building one from scratch.

Tom


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## jmd61 (Mar 14, 2006)

New here but I have been following this post for some time now. I am interested in building my first splitter and some of the information I have gathered from this post has helped alot. I would like to build it around a 11 hp Briggs engine that I have had as part of a generator. Its hardly been used, 3600 rpm and electric start. I am thinking I want to keep it horizontal with a lift (need help with that, ram type and size, and controls). I am not sure to go with a 4 1/5" or 5" ram, 2500 or 3000 psi (24" L). I think the engine mite be on the small side to push 22 gpm 2 stage pump. Should I just stay with the 16 gpm 2 stage? I am really lost on the control lever side of things, and what to use to power the lift ram. Well to tell you the truth all the help you can give I would appreciate. I only split about 6 to 10 cords a year but I want something that has no problems going thru hardwoods and knots and I do like tools that last. Thanks again.


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## DeanBrown3D (Mar 14, 2006)

www.northerntool.com sells a lot of what you might need, including the hydraulic levers and the like.


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## jmd61 (Mar 14, 2006)

Yes, I am aware of them an other sources for the purchase of the parts. What I was hoping for is some feedback, pics, suggestions or whatever from experienced members out their who have been thru this and know what works well and what doesnt. But thanks anyway


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 14, 2006)

Here is a picture of my splitter:





I had the 8 horse Honda motor, bought the 16gpm pump from TSC. I got all the steel for free, and the golf cart tires and wheels I got free. Bought the spindles and hubs from a trailer store. The 4.5" 3000psi cylinder, 20 gallon tank, and valve came from northern. The wedge I bought from my saw shop, it is an Iron and Oak wedge.


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## 046 (Mar 15, 2006)

casey, good looking splitter!

so how much do you figure it cost you to put this splitter together? 

I'm thinking it's going to be hard to put a decent splitter together for less than Harborfreight is charging for a 30ton unit. ($1100) since they are using quality components, it should hold up. seems their tonage claims is somewhat inflated.


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## CaseyForrest (Mar 15, 2006)

Lets see......

16GPM pump 200
Bracket to mount pump 50
4.5x24, 2" rod Cylinder 270
20 gallon Tank 100
Valve 70
Hubs and spindles 90
wedge 200( building one is MUCH cheaper)
Tubes for the tires 20
Hydraulic fittings...100
2" coupler and jack 30
Engine 50
Steel free
Hoses free


So you can see, buying one really isnt a bad idea. But if you are like me, youll get more satisfaction out of building one. If you have to buy everything to build one, youd be better off buying one from a store as the steel alone would cost you around $300, or more.


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## Magilla (Mar 21, 2006)

*Is a car enine enouhg power?*



????????????? said:


> A hot splitter! Cool!
> 
> I wanna see a V-eight!







:jawdrop: It's not a V-8 but I never would of guessed someone would actually use a Mercury Capri car engine as the power plant for a log splitter. FYI It's on Ebay right now.


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