# chain keeps spinning at idle



## islandtreeguy (Jul 29, 2009)

my problem is that my chain keeps spinning after coming down to idle speed. Ive adjusted the idle speed down but if it goes much lower the saw is going to die. is it a clutch problem? sprocket? any help would be appreciated. 
Its a husqvarna 142e.


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## Brian VT (Jul 29, 2009)

My 1st guess is that you're lean. You should be able to lower your idle well below chain engagement without the motor stalling.
Adjust your H and L and, if it won't adjust, check for air leaks or cracked fuel, carb. boot, or implulse line or air filter not set on right.
Maybe even carb. mounting bolts loose ? Might have a plugged fuel screen in the carb. or fuel filter in the tank ? Things to check that starve a saw of fuel or give it to much air.


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## tomtrees58 (Jul 29, 2009)

its a clutch tom trees


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## hoss (Jul 29, 2009)

tomtrees58 said:


> its a clutch tom trees



Yup, weak clutch springs.


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## Rookie1 (Jul 29, 2009)

Not sure what type of spring/springs are on a husqvarna 142e. but Ivw had Stihls with weak springs that act like that. Sometimes they will make a pinging sound when the shoe is engaging the drum.


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## Brian VT (Jul 29, 2009)

My 2nd guess is weak clutch springs. LOL


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## Erick (Jul 29, 2009)

Another vote for weak/broken clutch springs.


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## outdoortype (Jul 29, 2009)

*another vote for clutch*

Does it spin constantly while idling? Or is it just after making a cut the chain spins slowly for a few seconds and quits. The easiest way to check the clutch springs is to use a tachometer. The clutch shouldn't engage until around 3,600 RPMs or somewhere near there.


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## Erick (Jul 29, 2009)

Looks like the clutch springs are not available separate you're gonna need to buy a new clutch assembly Part# 530 01 49-49. Remember the clutch is a left hand thread when you take it off.


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## Moss Man (Jul 29, 2009)

I had a 55 Husky that did that. Stole a clutch from a parts saw I had and problem solved.


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## islandtreeguy (Jul 29, 2009)

thanks,
I'll look around and see about a new clutch. thought it could be something like that


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## Gab250 (Jul 29, 2009)

It could be an air leak. When engines suck air from places that they shouldnt, they tend to run badly and idle high. I would check that first, then I'd probably check the clutch. I'm not sure, but could the throttle be sticking also? spray all the throttle linkages with some WD40 or similar product. If you cant get it to idle lower without dying, check things like the spark plug and air filter, make sure everything is in good condition, because if you have a fouled plug or a clogged air filter, it may need to idle a bit higher in order to run correctly.

Gab


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## gallegosmike (Jul 29, 2009)

Weak coiled cutch springs.... Remove and replace cutch....


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## ropensaddle (Jul 29, 2009)

99.99% clutch.


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## Erick (Jul 29, 2009)

ropensaddle said:


> 99.99% clutch.


:agree2:
Easy enough to check... flip the chain brake on at idle and tell us what happens.


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## islandtreeguy (Jul 31, 2009)

aint got a working brake on this particular saw. Got it for free. it came with some problems I guess. has a giant hole in the muffler too.


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## Rookie1 (Jul 31, 2009)

islandtreeguy said:


> aint got a working brake on this particular saw. Got it for free. it came with some problems I guess. has a giant hole in the muffler too.



Hole in the muffler? Thats a muffler mod. Heck guys around here are always lookin for more power and modding the muffler. Here you have one already done. Have you looked at the clutch springs yet?


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## islandtreeguy (Jul 31, 2009)

heh heh I thought it was a pretty good muffler mod too. No extra work required just use the hell out of the saw. Haven't checked the springs but am looking to get a new clutch to see if that works


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## Bermie (Jul 31, 2009)

Is your chain properly tensioned???
Could be the cheaper solution....


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## pgg (Aug 1, 2009)

Yeah stringy vegetation/ grass/ vines/twine can unknowingly bind up hidden under a clutch and cause the chain to spin at idle, but usually it's just thin worn springs and likely the spring holes are worn grooved too, whole new clutch always the best but if the spring holes aren't too shabby, then just new springs'll do it, the clutch'll last till the springs are thin again, 2 sets of springs to one clutch keeps it all running sweet usually


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## pbtree (Aug 1, 2009)

tomtrees58 said:


> its a clutch tom trees



What I would eliminate first...


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## chieftechtksaws (Jun 12, 2022)

outdoortype said:


> *another vote for clutch*
> 
> Does it spin constantly while idling? Or is it just after making a cut the chain spins slowly for a few seconds and quits. The easiest way to check the clutch springs is to use a tachometer. The clutch shouldn't engage until around 3,600 RPMs or somewhere near there.





outdoortype said:


> *another vote for clutch*
> 
> Does it spin constantly while idling? Or is it just after making a cut the chain spins slowly for a few seconds and quits. The easiest way to check the clutch springs is to use a tachometer. The clutch shouldn't engage until around 3,600 RPMs or somewhere near there.


My 044 is doing the above^^ where it only spins at idle after making a cut. It does not do this for the first several minutes after start up, but starts doing this when warm. It's an old saw that I just got from a friend. I did some work to it to get it running and it cuts great, just having the spinning chain at idle problem. My first worry is that it's an airleak somewhere, but to be honest when the chain does spin at idle, it doesn't really sound like it's revving any higher which argues against an air leak, I would think. Any ideas?


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## Aknutter (Jun 12, 2022)

Did you try adjusting the idle? 
If not that p/v testing. Might have an air leak.


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## Old2stroke (Jun 12, 2022)

Check the clutch drum bearing. With the engine stopped and the chain off, does the drum spin freely?

Any sign of melted things around the clutch? Overheating the clutch can weaken the springs, allowing the clutch to engage at lower speed.


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## chieftechtksaws (Jun 12, 2022)

Drum does spin freely when off. I took the clutch off, and this is what I see. I can't tell if this is just caked dirt and bar oil or whether that's oil/gas accumulating from a leaking crank seal. Anyway I'll probably end up pressure vacuum testing it soon. Thanks guys!


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## Aknutter (Jun 12, 2022)

If you take the oiler gear off (should pull straight off shaft) there is a bushing that rides the crank, take bushing out , inspect seal .take a pick and post


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## Aknutter (Jun 12, 2022)

I would also take the two covers off around the clutch and clean the crap out. Those two covers are cheap if you want to replace them. Brake band might have crap under not allowing full release of drum when disengaged. I would then look at the clutch for worn out springs and worn out shoes (checking the spring holes).


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## chieftechtksaws (Jun 13, 2022)

Here's a picture of the crank seal with the bushing removed, not the best pic I suppose..fortunately there doesn't seem to be any play or rocking of the crank when i jiggle it, so hopefully the bearing is good. Clutch looks beat to hell, with deep grooves where the springs seat, so either way clutch needs replaced, but I'm still wondering why the problem only occurs after saw is warmed up. I'd think if it were bad clutch or springs it would be a constant problem on startup. Any thoughts?


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## Aknutter (Jun 13, 2022)

How does the seal feel? 
Post more pics ...
Clutch
Drum inside angle to see clutch ride
Sprocket
Angle pick of seal / crank


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## chieftechtksaws (Jun 13, 2022)

Last picture is a picture of the seal. It was very brittle, to the point where i inserted a qtip to clean off the gunk (which im pretty sure is fuel mixture), and it broke little pieces of black rubber off the seal. The spacer that seats on the inside of the seal also seems to insert without feeling very tight. I also posted a picture of the clutch washer/plate thing that looks like it has had fuel mixture spill on it, and has been casting it off centripetally. Basically I'm almost certain this seal is bad. I ordered the oem seal for the clutch side and the flywheel side, as I figure it's probably **** too... Clutch looks beat, there are some grooves in that thing for sure. I'm going to install these crank seals and run it with the tach nearby. If the problem continues and the chain is spinning at idle, i'll check the rpms. If they haven't increased from baseline, I'll know it's the clutch, if the rpms are increased ill assume I have a leak and spray carb cleaner everywhere until I find it or p/v test it.


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## Aknutter (Jun 13, 2022)

Few more picture, take the muffler cover off 4 screws and let's look at the piston for condition. Rotate motor and look at piston top, rings, skirt, inside to the other side of


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## Aknutter (Jun 13, 2022)

Well I'd say you are going to need pto crank seal. Especially if it's brittle, and chipped. Seal has been leaking causing the grey/black soot. Need to see what piston looks like. Clutch is a bit worn, possibly change.


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## chieftechtksaws (Jun 13, 2022)

Piston actually looks immaculate, I had muffler off the other day. Actually, it's appearance is the only reason I'm putting any money into a 30 year old saw haha


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## Aknutter (Jun 13, 2022)

Then change the crank seals and clutch/ drum she'll run another 30


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## Aknutter (Jun 13, 2022)

Buy the Stihl OEM seals...


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## chieftechtksaws (Jun 13, 2022)

Done did. Had to get them off ebay. Kind of disappointed, stihl dealers said they were "obsolete"


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## stihltech (Jun 14, 2022)

Obsolete? Funny, I am still putting them in.


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## chieftechtksaws (Jun 14, 2022)

Yea like, wtf? Anyway, any tips for pulling the old seals and placing the new ones? I saw some cool tricks using stacks of washers and a nut to slowly and evenly press it in. Think I prefer that method over tapping it in with a socket. Any ideas in getting it out with minimal tools? Most of my tools are back home


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## Tomos770 (Jun 15, 2022)

Or this....


Or two spax screws (self treading wood screw) and then you pull it out with 2 pliers (watch out when you tread them in....that you will not damage bearing cage!)


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## Tomos770 (Jun 15, 2022)




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## chieftechtksaws (Jun 19, 2022)

So installed new crank seals without much issue, but now when I tighten the oiler down, the worm is unable to turn gear on the oiler pump. The pump works fine when removed from the saw. So it's not the oiler. Do i need to drive the crank seal in a slight bit or something? I drove it flush with the housing. Anyone have a service manual


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