# my beginner setup-advice welcome



## locdogg (Oct 3, 2011)

Hi-
I'm new to this and need some advice before i go off milling. 

I bought a new stihl ms391 w/ 25" bar and a MKIII 24 in.
I got the more agressive chain (of the 2 they stock) according to the guy at the stihl store.

I plan on cutting mostly hardwood (mulberry, locust, oak, etc.)
the trees aren't huge so I thought the 24" would do?
most cuts will probably be 4-6 ft. don't really anticipate doing longer

should i get/make an auxilary oiler?
I've only put 1 tank of gas thru the saw so far.
How much more cutting firewood should I do before the break in is over and it's ok to mill some?
the manual i think says 5 tanks of gas or something is the break in...

i know the concensus here is the ms391 sucks but i didn't find this site until i already bought it :msp_sad:

i have (2) 4-5 ft mulberry logs to try on first.
also is mulberry worth milling? good to practice on at least?


----------



## mtngun (Oct 3, 2011)

locdogg said:


> I bought a new stihl ms391 w/ 25" bar and a MKIII 24 in.


That's not a milling saw. It would be OK for a mini-mill with a 20" bar.



> I got the more agressive chain (of the 2 they stock) according to the guy at the stihl store.


 Most of us use Woodland pro ripping chain.




> the trees aren't huge so I thought the 24" would do?


 With a 25" bar, your mill will only be able to cut 18" - 19" because the bar clamps take up several inches.



> should i get/make an auxilary oiler?


 Not absolutely necessary with a 25" bar, but helpful.



> How much more cutting firewood should I do before the break in is over and it's ok to mill some?
> the manual i think says 5 tanks of gas or something is the break in...


I break in by milling, just watch the carb tune.


----------



## gemniii (Oct 4, 2011)

locdogg said:


> Hi-
> I'm new to this and need some advice before i go off milling.
> 
> I bought a new stihl ms391 w/ 25" bar and a MKIII 24 in.
> ...


That's about the CC size of my first milling saw. I ran it w/ a 28" bar and a 36"MKIII, and ripping chain.
Stihl doesn't sell ripping chain in the States. Keep it sharp and well oiled and you shouldn't have a problem for green wood less than 16".
But be REAL careful about the oiler, the newer Stihls seem to be very light on the oiling.



locdogg said:


> should i get/make an auxilary oiler?


Might


locdogg said:


> I've only put 1 tank of gas thru the saw so far.
> How much more cutting firewood should I do before the break in is over and it's ok to mill some?
> the manual i think says 5 tanks of gas or something is the break in...


I'd put several tanks thru or at least till you know the saw well. 


locdogg said:


> i know the concensus here is the ms391 sucks but i didn't find this site until i already bought it :msp_sad:
> 
> i have (2) 4-5 ft mulberry logs to try on first.
> also is mulberry worth milling? good to practice on at least?


 
I don't know if the MS391 benefits from a muff mod, that might give you more power. Also stripping the bark helps the cutting.


----------



## maccall (Oct 6, 2011)

locdogg said:


> i know the concensus here is the ms391 sucks but i didn't find this site until i already bought it :msp_sad:



It only sucks if you ask about it before you buy it. 

But if you tell us you've already bought it - then Congrats! It's a very decent homeowner-grade saw of a good brand that will serve you good for many years. At least if you're not going to mill a real lot with it...




mtngun said:


> That's not a milling saw.



391 is actually the smallest saw Logosol in Sweden sells now together with their equpment. They used to sell the 361, but changed some time ago. I assume it's to make it easier to use picco chains (391 is small spline, right?), but at least they trust it enough for milling to recommend it and sell it!


EDIT: And welcome to AS locdogg!


----------



## locdogg (Oct 6, 2011)

maccall said:


> It only sucks if you ask about it before you buy it.
> 
> But if you tell us you've already bought it - then Congrats! It's a very decent homeowner-grade saw of a good brand that will serve you good for many years. At least if you're not going to mill a real lot with it...
> 
> ...


 
thanks! hopefully i'll get to try it out milling this weekend. i'll take pics or video and you can see how it works. I have regular 3/8 chain, not sure if picco works?

I will agree it does seem real light on the oiling. I got it turned up full oil and it doesn't seem any too much. I will probably have a helper drip oil on it or fashion an auxilary oiler to use when milling. I think the 25 in. bar may be pushing it. If I really get into this, I will probably drop 1k on a 660. 
the 391 does seem great for cutting firewood tho. i've only used smaller saws around 30cc with smaller bars and this definitely puts those to shame. cuts way faster. The chain I have is stihl RSF. it's the only non-safety chain my stihl dealer stocks.

but as far as for milling the only problem is the 391 may be slow. it's not gonna blow up or anything, right? at least I got a 2 yr warranty on it since it was new.:msp_thumbup:


----------



## maccall (Oct 6, 2011)

locdogg said:


> i'll take pics or video and you can see how it works. I have regular 3/8 chain, not sure if picco works?



Pics and video is a requirement!

Yes, picco would work, but I would not run it unless I could change the rim/spur sprocket and the bar to proper picco models. All 3/8" equipment is not created equal...



locdogg said:


> If I really get into this, I will probably drop 1k on a 660.



Good plan, there's nothing saying that milling is for you.



locdogg said:


> but as far as for milling the only problem is the 391 may be slow. it's not gonna blow up or anything, right? at least I got a 2 yr warranty on it since it was new.:msp_thumbup:


 
The long cuts at WOT (in periods of time) you make when milling is unlike (almost) everything you do when falling, limbing or cutting firewood, and your saw is made with those latter three activities in mind. Since it is of consumer grade it might propably not take that kind of use as long as a larger pro-saw. It will hold up for you to try, but it just won't last as long as a pro-model. How long it will last is hard to say, but milling is really hard work for a saw. 

I don't think there will be any problems if you just try it out a few times, but common advices for your situation is: Richen the carb a bit to lower the rpm's for the saw, let it rest a while on idle between the cuts, and dont go on for the whole day without breaks. You need coffee, beer, milk or whatever and the saw needs to cool down.

I'm planning on trying my 361 out with my "Big Mill Timber-jig", and that saw is even smaller than yours, but otoh, it's built for professional use. I will only be milling small dimensions with it and I'm sure it will work out fine.


----------



## locdogg (Oct 6, 2011)

maccall said:


> The long cuts at WOT (in periods of time) you make when milling is unlike (almost) everything you do when falling, limbing or cutting firewood, and your saw is made with those latter three activities in mind. Since it is of consumer grade it might propably not take that kind of use as long as a larger pro-saw. It will hold up for you to try, but it just won't last as long as a pro-model. How long it will last is hard to say, but milling is really hard work for a saw.
> 
> I don't think there will be any problems if you just try it out a few times, but common advices for your situation is: Richen the carb a bit to lower the rpm's for the saw, let it rest a while on idle between the cuts, and dont go on for the whole day without breaks. You need coffee, beer, milk or whatever and the saw needs to cool down.
> 
> I'm planning on trying my 361 out with my "Big Mill Timber-jig", and that saw is even smaller than yours, but otoh, it's built for professional use. I will only be milling small dimensions with it and I'm sure it will work out fine.




Thanks for the help. I will definitely let the saw rest on idle to cool down between the cuts maybe 10-15 mins after each cut. can't wait to get going!


----------



## locdogg (Oct 7, 2011)

well i got it all going tonight and it worked hella good!!! only made 2 cuts thru a mulberry log but i'm very satisfied. this should be quite fun. i can't wait to do some more tomorrow morning and will take some pics.


----------



## BobL (Oct 7, 2011)

locdogg said:


> Thanks for the help. I will definitely let the saw rest on idle to cool down between the cuts maybe 10-15 mins after each cut. can't wait to get going!


 
As it is only a small saw 2-3 minutes should be more than enough for it to reach idling temp. 

Some people need production and just leave the saw idling between cuts. Because I use log rails for almost every cut I find that by the time I remove the log rails and move the slab, replace the log rails, refuel and re-oil (avoid letting the saw run out of oil) and maybe touch up the chain and have drink it takes me some time to start cutting again so I just let the saw cool off off after 2-3 mins and then turn the saw off so I can complete remaining tasks without my ear muffs and face shield on.


----------



## locdogg (Oct 8, 2011)

some pics.View attachment 201933
View attachment 201934
View attachment 201935
View attachment 201936
View attachment 201937


----------



## locdogg (Oct 8, 2011)

should i try to scrape that crud off the bottom of the bar?


----------



## mikeb1079 (Oct 8, 2011)

nice work man, looks good. mulberry is a very attractive underrated wood imho. you're screwed now btw, i can see the addiction starting. :msp_smile:


----------



## caspa (Oct 8, 2011)

*addiction*

Hi locdogg,

I am from South Africa and I started with a ms381 (72 cc) and a 36" alaskan. I have milled quiet a few logs with my small setup, i just make sure that i take it easy and let the saw cool etc.

But the addiction has hit hard and now 14 months later i have just ordered a ms880........

I find myself driving down the road looking at trees in peoples gardens, looking to see if i can spot a special crotch or other unique tree...... Hooked i tell you....hooked

Enjoy the milling....


----------



## john taliaferro (Oct 8, 2011)

locdogg said:


> should i try to scrape that crud off the bottom of the bar?


 scraping will scratch bad letting more stick ,try pine sol or terptine , or mill some white oak thats dry .


----------



## BobL (Oct 8, 2011)

john taliaferro said:


> scraping will scratch bad letting more stick ,try pine sol or terptine , or mill some white oak thats dry .


 
Diesel also works


----------



## locdogg (Oct 16, 2011)

ok i got into some ash today and it worked good. was kinda scared as this log has set for about a year and i knew it would be tougher milling than the green mulberry log i had done earlier.

which made me think of a couple questions

1. how much faster would a 066 or 660 cut? (than my ms391)
2. which would you rather have? (i'm looking at some used ones on ebay...)


----------



## mtngun (Oct 16, 2011)

locdogg said:


> 1. how much faster would a 066 or 660 cut? (than my ms391)
> 2. which would you rather have? (i'm looking at some used ones on ebay...)


066 and 660 are the same saw, though there have been several design tweaks over the years. 

There is no such thing as enough speed on a CSM. They're all slow, some are just slower than others.


----------



## hamish (Oct 16, 2011)

mtngun said:


> There is no such thing as enough speed on a CSM. They're all slow, some are just slower than others.



The most important aspect of it all is to get out there milling and share the experience with somebody else.


----------



## Old Blue (Oct 18, 2011)

*Good luck locdogg !*

You've got an advanced case of milling fever. You just went from your first post about your first log to looking for a bigger saw. All in your first post

Old Blue
Oppressively taxed and punitively over regulated in
Kali-bone-ya


----------



## locdogg (Oct 18, 2011)

Old Blue said:


> You've got an advanced case of milling fever. You just went from your first post about your first log to looking for a bigger saw. All in your first post
> 
> Old Blue
> Oppressively taxed and punitively over regulated in
> Kali-bone-ya


 

yeah it's pretty fun. got the boards stacked up in the barn to dry and it looks pretty good. can't wait to make something out of em. also i bought a mini-mill since some of the logs i got are way too big for my setup. i can only cut about 18" with a 25" bar (which is the most my ms391 will handle)

i might do some quartersawing like this


----------



## qbilder (Oct 18, 2011)

If you handled that mulberry with a 391, it has a lot more respect from me. I have a 390 that I use for felling & bucking. Would never have considered it for milling, especially in mulberry. Mulberry is VERY hard, dense stuff. It's even tough on my band mills. I love it the wood, but it's tough stuff & still very heavy after dried. Ash will be nothing compared to mulberry. On my band mill(s) I have cut white oak, red oak, walnut, hickory, maples, mulberry, mesquite, desert ironwood, etc. & mulberry is right there with ironwood in toughness to mill. You got some pretty awesome boards there


----------



## mikeb1079 (Oct 18, 2011)

> mulberry is right there with ironwood in toughness to mill.



that's interesting qbilder, i've milled some mulberry and found it very easy to mill, even wide slabs. i would say it was similar to black cherry in millability. perhaps there are some regional differences in this species?


----------



## locdogg (Oct 18, 2011)

i didn't think the mulberry was that hard but it was pretty green, just cut it down a week or 2 before i milled it.


----------

