# How to Keep an Axe Head on a Wooden Handle



## neilg (Jan 24, 2011)

Is there a better way to keep an axe head on a wooden handle besides soaking it in water? It's really starting to annoy me that my axe head is loose every time I want to use it.


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 24, 2011)

neilg said:


> Is there a better way to keep an axe head on a wooden handle besides soaking it in water? It's really starting to annoy me that my axe head is loose every time I want to use it.


 
About the only thing that works is to drive it back tight and then drive the wedges in. It will loosen up again though. IME once one loosens up, its life is just about over. I usually fight them through another season and then replace.

Soaking them only tightens 'em until they dry out again although I do that too. Saw somewhere that using antifreeze (undiluted) works, I have tried that several times but really didn't see much improvement.

Harry K


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## mga (Jan 24, 2011)

somewhere i read soaking it in anti-freeze does the trick.

never tried it tho.


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## Cliniford (Jan 24, 2011)

not sure but would drilling a hole straight through and installing a roll pin work or would this weaken the head too much. I wouldnt try this on a nice one but maybe a cheaper hardware store axe.


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## Hedgerow (Jan 24, 2011)

neilg said:


> Is there a better way to keep an axe head on a wooden handle besides soaking it in water? It's really starting to annoy me that my axe head is loose every time I want to use it.


 
If there is, I haven't found it. I just gave up and bought a metal handled monster maul.


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## tuneshop (Jan 24, 2011)

you know ,if cant tighten with a new 'wedge' just put a new handle in it and epoxy it before you install the wedge.


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## olyman (Jan 24, 2011)

tighten with your steel and wooden wedges--ten put the head,,in a pail of light oil--and let it soak,,if the handle is fresh--may take a while--oil swells the wood fibers--


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## Yoopermike (Jan 24, 2011)

I have the same problem with a fiberglass handle maul.. everything ive tried, bout a dozen er so good hard cracks and its flying off!!!


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## olyman (Jan 24, 2011)

Yoopermike said:


> I have the same problem with a fiberglass handle maul.. everything ive tried, bout a dozen er so good hard cracks and its flying off!!!


 
this is the one,,to drill a hole thru the side of the head--and pin it,,,and on the one maul i did--i made sure to rough the inside of the head,REAL rough,,and used plenty of rosin fill in--with NO air bubbles..roll the rosin and hardener,,like the wife folds a angel food cake........


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## John Ellison (Jan 24, 2011)

I would get it good and dry inside by the stove first. Then wedge it up tight.


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## LumberjkChamp (Jan 24, 2011)

olyman said:


> tighten with your steel and wooden wedges--ten put the head,,in a pail of light oil--and let it soak,,if the handle is fresh--may take a while--oil swells the wood fibers--


 
I have heard this tip also. It has been said to soak the head and new handle in a container filled with linseed oil, then wedge it. Can't remember where I heard this but I made a mental note to retain the knowledge for when I have to put a new handle on my ax or mauls. It was said that after the above treatment the head will never budge. I will try this myself when I get the chance.


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## bobt (Jan 24, 2011)

Ah yes, The age old question of how to keep a handle in a splitting maul. The same problem arises when talking about railroad "spike mauls". The problem is very simply solved. Here is the truth about it.

1. The handle must be "fitted" to the head. It can be done by carving, or grinding. I always do it by grinding on a 6" bench grinder.

2. The handle must be hung "to the hilt". The head must go low enough on the handle to stop at the wide portion of the handle. You do this by pounding the butt of the handle on a hard surface. It is NOT done by pounding on the head.

3. You must drive in the supplied wooden wedge in the slot of the end of the handle. Then you apply one or more metal wedges at a right angle to the wooden wedge. Actually an angle works best.

4. Now your maul is "hung" on the handle. 

5. DO NOT SOAK the handle in anything. That just makes the wood cells swell, and then when they shrink again, they are even smaller than before, so your handle loosen because of the soaking.

5. If the handle loosens,,,,,,drive in another metal wedge.

NOW THE MOST IMPORTANT PART!!!!!

You must hit with the handle at 90 degrees to the intended target. This means that you have to bend your back when splitting wood!!!!!! Otherwise you will feel vibration, and possibly break the handle. Believe me,,, 'cause I know.

Give it a try.

Bob


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## Stihl310 (Jan 24, 2011)

Buy a Fiskars... problem solved, forever...


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## GeeVee (Jan 24, 2011)

A third of a roll of Duct tape. The added character weighs more than the tape. 

Or

Stick it in cider.....


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## DarkTimber (Jan 24, 2011)

Pull the head off then cover the part of the handle where the head goes with blue formagasket which is avaible at any auto parts store, then pound the head back on then add another metal wedge to the top this should keep the head from sliding around any more, or at least it worked on my wood maul, best of luck.


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## johncinco (Jan 25, 2011)

3. You must drive in the supplied wooden wedge in the slot of the end of the handle. Then you apply one or more metal wedges at a right angle to the wooden wedge. Actually an angle works best.
5. If the handle loosens said:


> This is the best advice! I have learned the hard way long enough. The wood wedge goes in the slit, and the metal one across at 90 degrees or abouts. The metal wedges are about 69 cents at the hardware and come in all sizes.


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## plawrence (Jan 25, 2011)

this is the blacksmiths fix all for this problem because water rots the wood so make the part of the handel that is going into the head alittle smaller then put a wrap of tire intertube around the handel and drive it in and wedge it then goodluck getting it out when you break it again lol.


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## Scrapiron (Jan 25, 2011)

*Here's what I do...*

Bobt has it right.

I don't use metal wedges though. I used boiled lineseed on my two axes. I bought some old Gransfors axe heads on ebay, cleaned them up, sharpened them and then hung them on new handles. The handles did not have any coating (poly) on them- hickory of course.

I used these instructions:

An Ax to Grind: A Practical Ax Manual, 9923-2823-MTDC, Index

2 years later and they are still tight. I have applied some additional linseed oil and every now and again whack the handle to get a snug fit on the axe head.

The handles are smooth and oh so nice. I let a friend try one and he was amazed at how nice they felt (and cut).


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## neilg (Jan 25, 2011)

I'll have to try the wooden and metal wedge trick. Right now I have 2 metal wedges only in handle slot, but that's obviously not working. Does it matter what kind of wood I use for wedges? I have some cedar shims but they might be a little weak.


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## mehrkens13 (Jan 25, 2011)

I have had good luck using wood screws, just screw them in were you would put your wedges, use this method on hammers as well.


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## TMFARM 2009 (Jan 25, 2011)

i have done the wedge thing... screws, all the above...set them aside and buy a fiskars...i did....


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## chowdozer (Jan 25, 2011)

I did this about 8 years/30 cord ago. The wedge under the one lag is one of the circular tapered steel wedges. Drilled 1/4" holes and ran 3/8 lags in. Hasn't come loose yet.

View attachment 169704


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## TallElf (Jan 25, 2011)

I broke my fiberglass handle from Lowes, went down to the local hardware store picked up one that was a "close fit" and hung it on the handle. Jammed the wood chip in, hammered the metal wedges in and it held on for about 2 years. It is now time to replace the handle as a few hard pieces of oak with some knots gave in, but not without a fight.


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