# gmc info



## JONSSTIHL

does anyone know what year the gmc 2500's went to fuel injection 

I'm looking for a pick up but would like to find an old school carburator, no power windows bare bones pick up with no electronics in it and was wondering. 

I know the 1500's went to injection around 88 but not sure if the 2500's follow along 

I found an 89 2500 with a 305 for cheap but i'm not sure if it meets my no electronics wish. 

also found an 86 chevy diesel but I think I've heard that they are trouble. 

I would like to have a gas engine as I'm more familiar with the technology and repairs

thanks for any help


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## 04ultra

JONSSTIHL said:


> does anyone know what year the gmc 2500's went to fuel injection
> 
> I'm looking for a pick up but would like to find an old school carburator, no power windows bare bones pick up with no electronics in it and was wondering.
> 
> I know the 1500's went to injection around 88 but not sure if the 2500's follow along
> 
> I found an 89 2500 with a 305 for cheap but i'm not sure if it meets my no electronics wish.
> 
> also found an 86 chevy diesel but I think I've heard that they are trouble.
> 
> I would like to have a gas engine as I'm more familiar with the technology and repairs
> 
> thanks for any help




I would have to say 1987 ...Had a 87 that was TBI......


.


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## spacemule

Wasn't the 454 available as either tbi or carb for several years?


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## 2000ssm6

Alldata is telling me various engine and fuel delivery options for 85-87. Older trucks like that may have a different motor or fuel system than what it came with. The 6.2L dsl were good motors, the 6.5L turbos had a few injection pump problems(still a good motor). Not a bad fix if you knew the gm parts guy, those were around $1500 last time I did one(plus 5 hours labor). Hard to beat a good turbo diesel though.


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## chowdozer

Some 87's. I've seen them both ways when I'm looking for a tbi donor for my truck. 88 all of them had it.


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## pbtree

04ultra said:


> I would have to say 1987 ...Had a 87 that was TBI......
> .



Correct.


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## ShoerFast

You could just convert any year, but my .02 cents worth would be to run the TBI or FI , my opinion would be based on many reasons, but cold starts are right up there, drivability is a score also.

Roller lifters and Vortex heads in a FI is what I would look for.

If you do find one to convert, or find a Quadrajet/HEI modle, there are a few drivability and power tricks to make them haul the beans, and not be to bad on econimy. 

Here is nearly a must, 

Crane Cams makes a kit to re-curve the distributor, fallow the instructions to a "T" and that kit will pay for it's self in just a few hundred miles. 







JEGS or Summit Racing, would be happy to sell you one, about $30 bucks.


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## chowdozer

There were two barrel and four barrels available on the 1987 GMC 2500. You can buy floats for them. M4MC is a Rochester Quadrajet which I know well. I should, at one time I had over 35 of them.


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## chowdozer

ShoerFast said:


> You could just convert any year, but my .02 cents worth would be to run the TBI or FI , my opinion would be based on many reasons, but cold starts are right up there, drivability is a score also.
> 
> Roller lifters and Vortex heads in a FI is what I would look for.
> 
> If you do find one to convert, or find a Quadrajet/HEI modle, there are a few drivability and power tricks to make them haul the beans, and not be to bad on econimy.
> 
> Here is nearly a must,
> 
> Crane Cams makes a kit to re-curve the distributor, fallow the instructions to a "T" and that kit will pay for it's self in just a few hundred miles.



That's a good unit. I'd also add a distributor recurve which will help alot. Bring in as much advance as you can as early as possible.


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## ShoerFast

chowdozer said:


> That's a good unit. I'd also add a distributor recurve which will help alot. Bring in as much advance as you can as early as possible.




Yup! 

Vac plugged, do a few full-power runs, swap the springs till your a change away from a ping at all speeds (filing a little on the advance wight stops may help) 

With the best springs in there for an almost ping, or one step tighter then pinging, check and see if the ol-shoer is clairvoyant enough to tell you to use 1-heavy and 1-med spring? 

With the vacuum adjustment all the way in, reconnect the hose and drive, taking 4 turns out at each drive, till it starts to ping at speed changes , or just slightly pings, back in 2 turns from there., better MPG and way better then stock drivability and power 

Back in the day, I should have scored a bunch of Quadrajets, there were only about a half dozen under most mechanics bench. 

I bet I worked 2 full days tinkering with the first one I had a problems with, but after figuring out there (loose term here) every trick, I really like them!

I wouldn't mind having a fist full of different sized primary and secondary jets and rods, and a few different length springs anymore. I hope they never go extinct.


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## chowdozer

ShoerFast said:


> Yup!
> 
> Vac plugged, do a few full-power runs, swap the springs till your a change away from a ping at all speeds (filing a little on the advance wight stops may help)
> 
> With the best springs in there for an almost ping, or one step tighter then pinging, check and see if the ol-shoer is clairvoyant enough to tell you to use 1-heavy and 1-med spring?
> 
> With the vacuum adjustment all the way in, reconnect the hose and drive, taking 4 turns out at each drive, till it starts to ping at speed changes , or just slightly pings, back in 2 turns from there., better MPG and way better then stock drivability and power
> 
> Back in the day, I should have scored a bunch of Quadrajets, there were only about a half dozen under most mechanics bench.
> 
> I bet I worked 2 full days tinkering with the first one I had a problems with, but after figuring out there (loose term here) every trick, I really like them!
> 
> I wouldn't mind having a fist full of different sized primary and secondary jets and rods, and a few different length springs anymore. I hope they never go extinct.



LOL, I have lots of primary and secondary rods, springs and jets and secondary hangars. I got into it because nobody wanted to work on them and nobody knew anything about them. Take it off and put a Holley on is all I ever heard. The cool thing about the QJet is that _everything_ is adjustable. Especially after you drill out the air and fuel bleeds on the primaries and make your own bleeds. It's a pretty decent performance carb. It's main drawback is the smallish fuel bowl.


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## JONSSTIHL

thanks guys but I think I want to stay away from computers 

I found a 1979 chevy 3/4 ton with a four speed granny low and part time 4wd. 

it has a one ton rear axle 14 bolt and seems in good shape 

atleast one hub is blown on the front 10 bolt because the lock just spins around and around 

how easy are those to repair and are parts available if it turns out not to be just the hub. there is a little play in the wheel on passenger side.

hubs are 75 bucks for the pair which isn't too bad
but if the axle is stripped and it will cost 500 bucks then the truck probably isn't worth it. 

it has a 350 v-8 in it 

anything to watch out for in particular with this mechanical combo

thanks for the info 

any good truck forums out there that don't just talk out cranking up the torsion bars and wondering why they can't get their truck aligned right after doing so.

thanks 

James


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## clearance

JONSSTIHL said:


> thanks guys but I think I want to stay away from computers
> 
> I found a 1979 chevy 3/4 ton with a four speed granny low and part time 4wd.
> 
> it has a one ton rear axle 14 bolt and seems in good shape
> 
> atleast one hub is blown on the front 10 bolt because the lock just spins around and around
> 
> how easy are those to repair and are parts available if it turns out not to be just the hub. there is a little play in the wheel on passenger side.
> 
> hubs are 75 bucks for the pair which isn't too bad
> but if the axle is stripped and it will cost 500 bucks then the truck probably isn't worth it.
> 
> it has a 350 v-8 in it
> 
> anything to watch out for in particular with this mechanical combo
> 
> thanks for the info
> 
> any good truck forums out there that don't just talk out cranking up the torsion bars and wondering why they can't get their truck aligned right after doing so.
> 
> thanks
> 
> James



I had an '80 truck just like yours, they are great. Check out Colorado K5 on the web.


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## GASoline71

JONSSTIHL said:


> anything to watch out for in particular with this mechanical combo
> 
> 
> James



You should have the 14 bolt full floater with a 10 1/2 inch ring gear... Bombproof rearend.

Also should have the NP205 gear driven transer case... same as the rear end Bomb proof.

The weak link in the whole deal will be the 10 bolt front end. My '79 GMC has the axact same setup. I even have a 4" lift and 35" tires on it. But I'm not out hardcore offroadin' in it either. So the 10 bolt will last if you don't abuse it.

Another weak link will be the clutch adjustment linkage... a goofy 4 piece deal that can wear out and break easily... don't ask me how i know. The parts are avalable through LMC Truck Parts. EZPZ to replace. Replace them whether they need it or not.

Edit: I also had a custom one piece rear drive shaft made after i lifted the truck. No more driveline vibrations from the carrier bearing area. Cost my less than 300 bucks shipped.

Gary


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## clearance

GASoline71 said:


> You should have the 14 bolt full floater with a 10 1/2 inch ring gear... Bombproof rearend.
> 
> Also should have the NP205 gear driven transer case... same as the rear end Bomb proof.
> 
> The weak link in the whole deal will be the 10 bolt front end. My '79 GMC has the axact same setup. I even have a 4" lift and 35" tires on it. But I'm not out hardcore offroadin' in it either. So the 10 bolt will last if you don't abuse it.
> 
> Another weak link will be the clutch adjustment linkage... a goofy 4 piece deal that can wear out and break easily... don't ask me how i know. The parts are avalable through LMC Truck Parts. EZPZ to replace. Replace them whether they need it or not.
> 
> Edit: I also had a custom one piece rear drive shaft made after i lifted the truck. No more driveline vibrations from the carrier bearing area. Cost my less than 300 bucks shipped.
> 
> Gary



The clutch deal is not terrible, but can be pretty frustrating. It has to be adjusted as the clutch wears. It also has to be greased, there are fittings there, lots of them under the truck, better than the sealed stuff they have now. If you are in to hardcore 4 wheeling, a Dana 60 front axle is the way to go. Gary is right, they are tough trucks, and easy to work on, good choice.


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## JONSSTIHL

I don,t own the truck yet but I am getting it checked out on monday. 

the body is in decent shape but the interior is a mess someone tried to put in a sunroof and then decided to take it out so there is a mess of putty and sealer on the roof but I don,t want a trailer queen I want a work truck. 

I found an old buyers guide article from a 4wheeling magazine so I have the mechanicals pretty much figured out . 

the rear axle is a one ton judging by the size of the studs 9/16 and I love the 4 lo in first gear the thing just crawls right along should be great for towing. 

anyone have an idea how much it can tow?

the only thing I'm worried about is if the looseness in the front end turns out to be a bad axle. and like I said I know atleast one hub is bad or could it be that the axle is stripped. I'm assuming the hub is designed to break before the axle . the bad hub is on the same side as the looseness (passenger side) I think???

how hard are the 10 bolt front ends to rebuild. a guy at work told me the balljoints are impossible to change yourself and that only a large truck shop can do it but I have a hard time believing that. 

he wants 1800 for it 

one thing I found weird is that I'm not that tall (5' 9") but the clutch was a little far away when pushed to the floor, but the shifter for the transfer case was all ready hitting the padiing on the bench seat when it was all the way back. 

thanks for all the advice I have a grease gun so fittings are not a problem


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## chowdozer

Mechanically, there're good trucks. There are two different floating rearends on those trucks. One for duallies and one for singles. The only difference is housing width. (Later models had a semi floater with a 9.5" ring gear. Stay away.) Some 3/4 tons had 11" rear brakes and a 6400 GVW. The 8600 GVW had 13" rear brakes. It is very apparent when you look underneath as the 13" brakes are almost the same size as the wheel. Front axles for those are easy to find, just match the gear ratio. They had 10 bolts and Dana 44's avaiable. If you find a 1 ton 4 wheeler it will have a Dana 60 and that's the way to go if you're going to really work it. Unfortunately the Dana 60's are going for +$1K about now, but keep your eyes peeled and you may find one. Ball joints shouldn't be a problem, but I can't remember too well either.

The only real problem those trucks had was the firewall. The seamsealer in the cowl under the wipers would crack and let moisture into the spotwelds where the firewall joins the cab. The firewall would rust out and the water would get in the cab, rot out the floor and the sills. Rust in the rear cab corners can be a problem too. The really good thing about those trucks is that parts are really cheap.


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## JONSSTIHL

well I guess I can forget about the 79 3/4 ton 

it didn't check out well enough for the 1500 dollar asking price maybe for 500 

both ball joints shot, rear u-joint shot, exhaust was a custom dual setup that hung way too low and when we finally figured out how to lift it without crushing anything the brake line going to the rear axle was up tight against the exhaust, and there was no fan shroud and the brakes were acting kind of funny and the radiator was about 3 inches low on coolant so who knows where that was going. and it had 5 springs on the drivers side front and only three on the passenger side front. that alone kind of turned me off the whole truck. who knows what else was tampered with. 

it looked like he had already started to use it as a parts truck before I found it. 

I found another one though , an 80 or 81 k10 automatic. but it looks like it is in better shape but it has the small axles probably 10 bolts, but the windsheild isn't cracked and the tires are new. 

how much wood can a 1/2 ton handle can I fill the 8 foot box with wood 1.5 face cords approx. I figure the wood would come in around 1800 lbs

thanks 
james


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## chowdozer

JONSSTIHL said:


> well I guess I can forget about the 79 3/4 ton
> 
> it didn't check out well enough for the 1500 dollar asking price maybe for 500
> 
> both ball joints shot, rear u-joint shot, exhaust was a custom dual setup that hung way too low and when we finally figured out how to lift it without crushing anything the brake line going to the rear axle was up tight against the exhaust, and there was no fan shroud and the brakes were acting kind of funny and the radiator was about 3 inches low on coolant so who knows where that was going. and it had 5 springs on the drivers side front and only three on the passenger side front. that alone kind of turned me off the whole truck. who knows what else was tampered with.
> 
> it looked like he had already started to use it as a parts truck before I found it.
> 
> I found another one though , an 80 or 81 k10 automatic. but it looks like it is in better shape but it has the small axles probably 10 bolts, but the windsheild isn't cracked and the tires are new.
> 
> how much wood can a 1/2 ton handle can I fill the 8 foot box with wood 1.5 face cords approx. I figure the wood would come in around 1800 lbs
> 
> thanks
> james



1800 pounds is pushing the limit for a half ton. It will do it and it might do it for a long time. One of the things to consider on a half ton is the axles support the load and provide the power transfer. You lose a shaft and you're going to be in trouble. I like full floating axles much better.

Personally, I would go for a 3/4 ton.


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## GASoline71

Those 1/2 tons will sag bigtime... where you can actually rub the rear tires in the fenderwells... not good for haulin' anything...

Stick with a 3/4 ton... or look into a 1 ton.

Gary


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## JONSSTIHL

you are quick on the replies thanks, 

I'm not quite following you on the full floater compared to the ten bolt can you explain. 

I will find out more about the half ton most importantly the price and having it up on a lift later but I'm thinking I may just put less weight in the truck and tow it with a trailer instead. 

the half ton is in a lot better condition but I'm not too keen on the th350 tranny.
especially since it is on it's second rebuild, the shop screwed up the first one and the tranny lost third gear so they are doing the second rebuild on warranty. 

I was hoping for an sm465

I think I just need a little more patience but I'm really itching for a truck


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## GASoline71

You won't find an SM465 in a half ton... 3/4 tons and bigger only... another bomb proff tranny.

The GM 14-bolt full floater is just that... a full floating axle. The axle shafts don't bear any of the weight... the axle tube does... Well technically it has a hub and a spindle and that is what bears the weight. You can actually remove the axleshaft without even removing the wheel from the truck. Only if it has stock hub caps on it though and not mag wheels where the center cap is non-removeable.

The 10-bolt is... well... a 10-bolt. A weak rear end. IMO they never ever should have found their way under a truck. TH350 is a good tranny but it has it's limitations. If it has A TH350... that means it prolly has a NP203 transfer case. If that is the case... it prolly has full time four wheel drive too... Maybe not. Some of the trucks in 1981 were getting auto locking hubs but they were garbage. If it is full time four wheel drive... you will hate it. Eats a lot of gas and is hell on front end parts. There are conversion kits... but I think they aren't the best option.

Gary


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## chowdozer

GASoline71 said:


> You won't find an SM465 in a half ton... 3/4 tons and bigger only... another bomb proff tranny.
> 
> The GM 14-bolt full floater is just that... a full floating axle. The axle shafts don't bear any of the weight... the axle tube does... Well technically it has a hub and a spindle and that is what bears the weight. You can actually remove the axleshaft without even removing the wheel from the truck. Only if it has stock hub caps on it though and not mag wheels where the center cap is non-removeable.
> 
> The 10-bolt is... well... a 10-bolt. A weak rear end. IMO they never ever should have found their way under a truck. TH350 is a good tranny but it has it's limitations. If it has A TH350... that means it prolly has a NP203 transfer case. If that is the case... it prolly has full time four wheel drive too... Maybe not. Some of the trucks in 1981 were getting auto locking hubs but they were garbage. If it is full time four wheel drive... you will hate it. Eats a lot of gas and is hell on front end parts. There are conversion kits... but I think they aren't the best option.
> 
> Gary



To add to Gary's post, a GM 14 bolt refers to the number of bolts holding the ring gear on, (as does 10 bolt or 12 bolt, which coincidentally often is the number of bolts holding the rear cover on). There were two versions, the full floater and the semi floater.

Here's a full floater. It's an Eaton, but it looks pretty much the same as a 14 bolt. Notice how there's a protrusion that sticks through the wheel with 8 bolts on it. Unbolt those and the whole axleshaft pulls out. The axle has splines on the end of it that fit into the third member. The axle actually puts it's driving force on the outside of the hub/brakedrum. The axleshaft only transfers power. The hub/brakedrum is supported with two tapered roller bearings on each side with two nuts that preload the bearings. Lots of load capacity. If you break an axleshaft, your wheel doesn't fall off.







Another pic






By comparison, here's what they called the semi floater. Notice there is no protrusion? Absence of the 8 bolts too. Usually these type of shafts are held in with C-clips accessible by removing the cover. Bad. If a C-clip breaks, the axleshaft wanders out. Bad. The axleshaft carries the load and transfers the power. Bad. There's a roller bearing that rides on the outside edge of the axleshaft and that's your load carrier. Bad. This is bad rear for a pickup that's going to get used. Not as much bearing as a full floater and if you break an axleshaft, you lose the wheel. Also, when the axleshaft wears from the bearing riding on it, the axleshaft is junk. These rearends also had a smaller ring gear than a full floater. Most RWD cars, 1/2 ton pickups and some later 3/4 ton pickups have this. The year you're looking at may not have had this available, but be aware of it. Look for that protrusion through the wheel.






If you can find a 3/4 ton with a 350, Turbo 350 and a NP205 you've got it made. A 205 is going to have a cast iron case. Pics:






The stick


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## chowdozer

JONSSTIHL said:


> you are quick on the replies thanks,
> 
> I'm not quite following you on the full floater compared to the ten bolt can you explain.
> 
> I will find out more about the half ton most importantly the price and having it up on a lift later but I'm thinking I may just put less weight in the truck and tow it with a trailer instead.
> 
> the half ton is in a lot better condition but I'm not too keen on the th350 tranny.
> especially since it is on it's second rebuild, the shop screwed up the first one and the tranny lost third gear so they are doing the second rebuild on warranty.
> 
> I was hoping for an sm465
> 
> I think I just need a little more patience but I'm really itching for a truck



Given the choice between a Turbo 350 and a SM465, I'll take the 465. Which is why I have one.  

The Turbo 350 can be built up very good, but it sounds like the tranny shop doing the work is lacking. In that case, I'd definitely be looking for the 465.


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## JONSSTIHL

thanks for the lesson 

yep that 79 was a full floater rear axle it is too bad the rest of the truck was so beat up because it was the perfect mechanical combination. 

this 1/2 ton is part time with manual locking hubs so probably a np 205

maybe i'll just throw 1/2 a face cord in the bed and tow the rest in a trailer. 

but I still really want a 3/4 ton. 

but now I'm thinking the 1/2 ton will get much better mileage around town than the 3/4 ton with 4.56 gears. 

how much do you figure it would cost to rebuild the 10 bolt on the 79 3/4 ton. for moog parts I<m looking at 240 just for ball joints


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## chowdozer

JONSSTIHL said:


> thanks for the lesson
> 
> yep that 79 was a full floater rear axle it is too bad the rest of the truck was so beat up because it was the perfect mechanical combination.
> 
> this 1/2 ton is part time with manual locking hubs so probably a np 205
> 
> maybe i'll just throw 1/2 a face cord in the bed and tow the rest in a trailer.
> 
> but I still really want a 3/4 ton.
> 
> but now I'm thinking the 1/2 ton will get much better mileage around town than the 3/4 ton with 4.56 gears.
> 
> how much do you figure it would cost to rebuild the 10 bolt on the 79 3/4 ton. for moog parts I<m looking at 240 just for ball joints



I don't know how much it's going to cost to rebuild a frontend.

I'll give you something to think about though.

If you buy a half ton, you will overload it. It's just a matter of time and the thought of "just a few more pieces".

Be patient, you'll find a 3/4 ton.


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## GASoline71

JONSSTIHL said:


> how much do you figure it would cost to rebuild the 10 bolt on the 79 3/4 ton. for moog parts I<m looking at 240 just for ball joints



You're gettin' ripped off... Those ball joints shouldn't be more than 20-30 bucks apiece. Go to Napa and just buy their brand. Forget Moog... you're payin' for a name on the box.

Great post on the axle and tranny chowdozy!  

Gary


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## GASoline71

chowdozer said:


> I don't know how much it's going to cost to rebuild a frontend.
> 
> I'll give you something to think about though.
> 
> If you buy a half ton, you will overload it. It's just a matter of time and the thought of "just a few more pieces".
> 
> Be patient, you'll find a 3/4 ton.



Agreed... even if you partially load that half ton and then try to pull a loaded trailer... your gonna lug that truck down more that it should handle.

If you're lookin' at these old Chevy's and GMC's... 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton... gas mileage is gonna be the same with a small block 350. Doesn't matter what tranny/transfer case combo you got... gas mileage is gonna suck period.

Gary


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## JONSSTIHL

thanks a lot for the therapy guys, 

i do need a 3/4 ton or maybe a 1 ton. 

the half ton sounds like an accident waiting to happen. I just have to work on my patience.


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## JONSSTIHL

*found one!!*

well I finally found one 
and I decided to go bigger rather than smaller. and I figured fuel injection was the way to go

it is a 1991 1 ton 4x4 crew cab with an automatic and a tbi 350

i paid a little more than I wanted to put into a truck but 3200$ isn't too bad

it has a dana 60 front axle and a gm 14 bolt full floater on the rear

I will get pics tonight I'm at work now


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## JONSSTIHL

here is a pic


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## pbtree

Looks nice dude!


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## chowdozer

JONSSTIHL said:


> here is a pic



Good looking truck and a fair price too. You love that truck and you'll love how easy it is to work on.


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## JONSSTIHL

i got it home about 50 mile trip and it sounded like it was running on two cylinders at idle. turns out the egr valve had broken off its base and was bypassing exhaust gas all the time. 

the only problem is that it is so high it is a pain to work under the hood. I need a step ladder just to reach the throttle body, but the good thing is I don't need to jack it to change the oil

fair price is what I was thinking too, I didn't steal it but I didn't get taken for a ride either

I like it so far, too bad the intake manifold started leaking coolant at the front drivers side. I think that is one thing I will take it to a mechanic for. I changed the egr valve without too much trouble but removing the whole intake is a whole other ball game.


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## JONSSTIHL

anyone have any idea what transfer case is in it. It is part time 4wd with manual locking hubs. 

from what the previous owner said I think it has a 4l80e transmission in it. it has overdrive. 

and I really like all the room under the hood spark plug change took me 15 minutes


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## clearance

JONSSTIHL said:


> anyone have any idea what transfer case is in it. It is part time 4wd with manual locking hubs.
> 
> from what the previous owner said I think it has a 4l80e transmission in it. it has overdrive.
> 
> and I really like all the room under the hood spark plug change took me 15 minutes



I think it is a New Process 205, it takes gear oil, same as the differentials, 80W90. Best to find out for sure though.


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## Austin1

clearance said:


> I think it is a New Process 205, it takes gear oil, same as the differentials, 80W90. Best to find out for sure though.


Is that what it had in it or what the manual say's? People always seem to put gear oil in a 203!You have seen many picks now so you know what your looking at so I am not doubting you. It is just that I have seen so many np203 with gear oil in them over the years.


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## clearance

Austin1 said:


> Is that what it had in it or what the manual say's? People always seem to put gear oil in a 203!You have seen many picks now so you know what your looking at so I am not doubting you. It is just that I have seen so many np203 with gear oil in them over the years.



205, not 203, totally diferent animal.


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## chowdozer

JONSSTIHL said:


> anyone have any idea what transfer case is in it. It is part time 4wd with manual locking hubs.
> 
> from what the previous owner said I think it has a 4l80e transmission in it. it has overdrive.
> 
> and I really like all the room under the hood spark plug change took me 15 minutes



Jon, you either have a part time NP205 gear driven cast iron case

or

you have a part time chain driven NP208 with a aluminum case.

Just poke your head under there and look for iron or aluminum.


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## chowdozer

JONSSTIHL said:


> i got it home about 50 mile trip and it sounded like it was running on two cylinders at idle. turns out the egr valve had broken off its base and was bypassing exhaust gas all the time.
> 
> the only problem is that it is so high it is a pain to work under the hood. I need a step ladder just to reach the throttle body, but the good thing is I don't need to jack it to change the oil
> 
> fair price is what I was thinking too, I didn't steal it but I didn't get taken for a ride either
> 
> I like it so far, too bad the intake manifold started leaking coolant at the front drivers side. I think that is one thing I will take it to a mechanic for. I changed the egr valve without too much trouble but removing the whole intake is a whole other ball game.



Intake, easy as pie. Saturday afternoon while taking the time to drink a 6 pack.

Let me know if you're going to do it.


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## Austin1

clearance said:


> 205, not 203, totally diferent animal.


Yes I know that! but when people see a real cast iron transfer case they think right away it is a 205. 203 is not to bad of a transfer case only problem is they are full time there are two kits available to convert them lets just say you get what you pay for!Not sure what G.M put in the heavy duty in 91 but in the half and light duty 3/4 it was a np 241 great gear ratio aprox 2.7-1 in low much better than a 205 at 2-1 but case made of aluminum and with a slip yoke on the tcase end again you can get a kit to get rid of these problems! That's what I did on my 90 Blazer still running the 241 but with a Turbo 400 trans and 502 big block with 6'' lift buy getting rid of the slip yoke I gain another 4'' to help drive line angle/ The slip yoke is on the drive shaft not The tcase end, uses the same u joints as a np205 out of a 1 ton I did this almost 8 years ago I will find out the names for the Tcase adapter kit cant remember I own too many trucks!
but you might have a 241 in your truck! really not that bad of a Tcase much better than a 208 But they did not put a 208 in the trucks made in 91 that I know of. is it cast or aluminum?
Buy the way mine now has a Dana60 front with air lockers and 14 bolt rear with a detroit locker


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## chowdozer

Austin1 said:


> Yes I know that! but when people see a real cast iron transfer case they think right away it is a 205. 203 is not to bad of a transfer case only problem is they are full time there are two kits available to convert them lets just say you get what you pay for!Not sure what G.M put in the heavy duty in 91 but in the half and light duty 3/4 it was a np 241 great gear ratio aprox 2.7-1 in low much better than a 205 at 2-1 but case made of aluminum and with a slip yoke on the tcase end again you can get a kit to get rid of these problems! That's what I did on my 90 Blazer still running the 241 but with a Turbo 400 trans and 502 big block with 6'' lift buy getting rid of the slip yoke I gain another 4'' to help drive line angle/ The slip yoke is on the drive shaft not The tcase end, uses the same u joints as a np205 out of a 1 ton I did this almost 8 years ago I will find out the names for the Tcase adapter kit cant remember I own too many trucks!
> but you might have a 241 in your truck! really not that bad of a Tcase much better than a 208 But they did not put a 208 in the trucks made in 91 that I know of. is it cast or aluminum?
> Buy the way mine now has a Dana60 front with air lockers and 14 bolt rear with a detroit locker



The NP208 case was available from 1981-1987 which covered the older body style. His 1991 crew is the older body style. Offhand, I would say it's a NP205 being that it's a 3500, except that he has the TH700R4 also. I don't believe any NP205's were bolted to 700R4's. I may be wrong, I just haven't seen any.

The NP203 is a good case. Best when bolted to a NP205 for a 4:1 low reduction. Then make the NP205 a twin stick.

edit: and yeah, you're right. He could have a 241 case. That's starting to get out of my time period.

old iron lives!


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## Austin1

chowdozer said:


> The NP208 case was available from 1981-1987 which covered the older body style. His 1991 crew is the older body style. Offhand, I would say it's a NP205 being that it's a 3500, except that he has the TH700R4 also. I don't believe any NP205's were bolted to 700R4's. I may be wrong, I just haven't seen any.
> 
> The NP203 is a good case. Best when bolted to a NP205 for a 4:1 low reduction. Then make the NP205 a twin stick.
> 
> edit: and yeah, you're right. He could have a 241 case. That's starting to get out of my time period.
> 
> old iron lives!


I know I stopped looking at gm's after 90 my blazer is still the square body thats about all that is stock on it! I also like old iron my favorite being the 67-72 chevy. I am not sure if they put the 205 in a auto but who knows those years I like to call the cross over years!


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## chowdozer

Austin1 said:


> I know I stopped looking at gm's after 90 my blazer is still the square body thats about all that is stock on it! I also like old iron my favorite being the 67-72 chevy. I am not sure if they put the 205 in a auto but who knows those years I like to call the cross over years!



I've been looking for a '69 or '70 3/4 4wd. I've passed a few up and then wonder if I'll see another?

And you're right, they did alot of strange stuff in the late 80's. early 90's on the trucks.


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## Austin1

chowdozer said:


> I've been looking for a '69 or '70 3/4 4wd. I've passed a few up and then wonder if I'll see another?
> 
> And you're right, they did alot of strange stuff in the late 80's. early 90's on the trucks.


I think all of the big three did that but like always dodge was last to jump on the bandwagon, but one of the first to start a new trend in the mid 90s


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## JONSSTIHL

I am tempted to do the intake gaskets myself. but I don't really have the time to do it and I really don't have the time to do the job twice if for some reason I screw it up and it still leaks. 

If I had a good how to article I might try it. It doesn't sound too complicated just have to watch out for the timing when you put the distributor back in. are people using actual gaskets or is it more common to use silicone rtv. are gm gaskets any better than aftermarket

I turned the rad. cap back a notch to not let it build up pressure and I think it may have temporarily solved the problem. and so far no overheating

I think it has a 4l80e transmission in it and I haven't had time to check if the case is alum. or iron but it is huge and I think from memory that it is iron.

any one know how the stock in dash voltmeter is wired in because it is reading quite low (just above the red) but I get 13.5v at the battery

thanks


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## chowdozer

JONSSTIHL said:


> I am tempted to do the intake gaskets myself. but I don't really have the time to do it and I really don't have the time to do the job twice if for some reason I screw it up and it still leaks.
> 
> If I had a good how to article I might try it. It doesn't sound too complicated just have to watch out for the timing when you put the distributor back in. are people using actual gaskets or is it more common to use silicone rtv. are gm gaskets any better than aftermarket
> 
> I turned the rad. cap back a notch to not let it build up pressure and I think it may have temporarily solved the problem. and so far no overheating
> 
> I think it has a 4l80e transmission in it and I haven't had time to check if the case is alum. or iron but it is huge and I think from memory that it is iron.
> 
> any one know how the stock in dash voltmeter is wired in because it is reading quite low (just above the red) but I get 13.5v at the battery
> 
> thanks



Yes, use gaskets. RTV is a sticky mess and doesn't clean up well. RTV on gaskets makes them slip-and-slide. I use 3M weatherstrip adhesive around the waterjackets.

The voltmeter is connected to an ignition on source. Check connections, measure voltage where the voltmeter is and maybe remove the voltmeter and hook it directly to the battery under the hood to check. Possibility the voltmeter isn't reading correctly. They aren't top quality voltmeters.

Add LMC Truck to your list of websites.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/0001.asp


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## JONSSTIHL

I think someone all ready mentioned lmc truck parts on page one and it is all ready in my favorites but it says they are only for 1/2 and 3/4 ton pick-ups

and I'm a little confused as to where I need to draw the line since my truck is an older body style with the new model year but my best guess is that anything for an 87 would probably fit. 

thanks


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## chowdozer

JONSSTIHL said:


> I think someone all ready mentioned lmc truck parts on page one and it is all ready in my favorites but it says they are only for 1/2 and 3/4 ton pick-ups
> 
> and I'm a little confused as to where I need to draw the line since my truck is an older body style with the new model year but my best guess is that anything for an 87 would probably fit.
> 
> thanks



Your truck is identical to a 3/4 ton with the exception of the front axle and maybe a spring or two extra and all parts from an '87 will fit. The only possible place I think you may have a problem is in the fuel system. There may have been some changes to the fuel injection from 87 to 91. But don't quote me on that. Those trucks had minor revisions from 73 to 87.


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