# What brand of 2 stroke oil are you using ?



## plutus

Almost all threads about 2 stroke oils you use are outdated that's why decide to update. Need this information to understand which oils are most used in 2 stroke handhelds to test on my device, yesterday analyzer ran out of memory had to optimise the code. Last option will be to drop accuracy to 10:1 increments which will give me more room to maneuver i.e. from 30:1 all the way up to 55:1 but with 10:1 increments up to 50:1 then 5:1 increment to 55:1. And transitions i.e. below 30:1, 30-40:1, 40-50:1,50-55:1 and above 55:1. Thanks for your participation in the poll.


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## Ryan'smilling

Yamalube 2R @40:1.


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## moondoggie

Jonsered/Husqvarna xp [email protected]:1


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## TreeswingerPerth

Redline Racing 2 Stroke .


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## Little Al

Blended to suit the use required small company that blends oil for MOTO GP & other race purposes Ex ELF Guys


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## anlrolfe

If it says JASO FD it's good for me.
I've got a variety of oil kicking around that I've either gotten on sale on on impulse.
Stihl Ultra or off brand from Wally-World and the hardware stores, it doesn't matter. 40:1 gets-er-done.
I've probably got too much and should probably worry about the shelf life...
One more oil thread and I'm going back to SAE 30


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## CR888

There has been to many arguments and false information about 2T saw oil therefore I've stopped using it all together.


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## alderman

Husky


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## BusyBeaver

Bel Ray MC-5, 36:1.
BB


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## oologahan

Amsoil Saber 60:1 husqvarna 525 LS, 40:1 1965-1979 chainsaws


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## old guy

Lucas semi sinthetic


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## porsche965

Saber above 10,000 rpms and Red Armor for the 4-mixes.


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## AmateurSawer

Stihl Ultra at 40:1


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## ATH

Amsoil Saber. I use it at 50:1 as saw manufacturer specifies.


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## Cope1024

Echo Red Armor.


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## hi-fi

Maxima K2 @ 40:1


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## r black

klotz or maxima 32/35:1


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## Tin-knocker

Yamalube 2r for the dirtbikes (32:1) and stihl high performance for the saws (50:1)


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## Ted Jenkins

Remember Chain Saws are not high performance engines. For 50 years have used a 34:1 and have not noticed any unusual wear. Thanks


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## r black

Ted Jenkins said:


> Remember Chain Saws are not high performance engines. For 50 years have used a 34:1 and have not noticed any unusual wear. Thanks


are they low performance ?


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## Tin-knocker

Ted Jenkins said:


> Remember Chain Saws are not high performance engines. For 50 years have used a 34:1 and have not noticed any unusual wear. Thanks


No disrespect intended but why do you run 34:1 when most companies recommend 50:1 or 40:1. From what I know in a high performance 2 stroke engine you would have a richer premix like you run. I run what the manufacturer recommends and really try to dial in the jetting. The way I figure it their must be a reason why the manufacturer recommends that premix ratio.


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## Ryan'smilling

Tin-knocker said:


> The way I figure it their must be a reason why the manufacturer recommends that premix ratio.




Well sure, there's a reason, or maybe several reasons, but what are they? 

Better performance?
Longer lifespan?
Shorter lifespan?
Lower emissions? 

The OEMs used to recommend higher ratios of oil, and there's testing numbers that indicate a 2-stroke will make more power the more oil you add, up to about 16:1. Adding a little more to a gallon of fuel doesn't really change your tune much, you're only changing the amount of fuel in the mix very little, but you can add some extra lube to the bottom end, which isn't a bad thing .


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## Tin-knocker

Ryan'smilling said:


> The OEMs used to recommend higher ratios of oil, and there's testing numbers that indicate a 2-stroke will make more power the more oil you add, up to about 16:1. Adding a little more to a gallon of fuel doesn't really change your tune much, you're only changing the amount of fuel in the mix very little, but you can add some extra lube to the bottom end, which isn't a bad thing .


Though you risk fouling plugs with a richer premix without adjusting your carburetor jetting right? 
I've read about the 16:1 ratio being the max for power gain but I thought I read that was mostly for dirtbike hill climbers that are pretty much pinned and not ran at mid or idle. I could be wrong can't remember when I came across that.


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## Ryan'smilling

Tin-knocker said:


> Though you risk fouling plugs with a richer premix without adjusting your carburetor jetting right?
> I've read about the 16:1 ratio being the max for power gain but I thought I read that was mostly for dirtbike hill climbers that are pretty much pinned and not ran at mid or idle. I could be wrong can't remember when I came across that.



Totally. Tuning needs to happen when it needs to happen, change in the seasons, change in the gas, change in the oil, bigger hole in the muffler etc. 

I think you're right on the source of the HP info. I'm not suggesting anyone run 16:1, just pointing out that 50:1 may not be the recommendation due to that ratio making the most power, or making for the longest running engine. If a feller is happy at 50:1, that's great. If a guy gets a warm fuzzy feeling from an extra glug per gallon, that's cool too. Any problems with the tune are easily overcome.


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## kianio7

whatevers cheapest


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## Gugi47

Stihl Synthetic 50:1 in everything i own 2 cycle engines 



Ryan'smilling said:


> Well sure, there's a reason, or maybe several reasons, *but what are they?*
> 
> Better performance?
> Longer lifespan?
> *Shorter lifespan?
> Lower emissions? *
> 
> The OEMs used to recommend higher ratios of oil, and there's testing numbers that indicate a 2-stroke will make more power the more oil you add, up to about 16:1. Adding a little more to a gallon of fuel doesn't really change your tune much, you're only changing the amount of fuel in the mix very little, but you can add some extra lube to the bottom end, which isn't a bad thing .



One, and very important is the oil build up in the engine and muffler. That's why many saws don't start because the muffler don't have emission.


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## Little Al

CR888 said:


> There has been to many arguments and false information about 2T saw oil therefore I've stopped using it all together.


How many saws have you replaced since you went 100% frugal on the mix oil


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## brandonstc6

I use Lucas oil semi synthetic 


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## Robin Wood

Castrol Power 1 JASO FD grade, 25:1


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## d1hamby

Stihl HP Ultra 50:1


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## RandyinTN

The cheapest oil I can find at Wal Mart.


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## Little Al

Tin-knocker said:


> Though you risk fouling plugs with a richer premix without adjusting your carburetor jetting right?
> I've read about the 16:1 ratio being the max for power gain but I thought I read that was mostly for dirtbike hill climbers that are pretty much pinned and not ran at mid or idle. I could be wrong can't remember when I came across that.


The more WOT in regard to bikes was always a put more oil in the mix to keep the engine in it's best condition/power output. Why would you run a saw with an incorrectly adjusted carb ? & how do you run your saw? on a stone age carb that most saws use there are only 2 positions idle /WOT, & not much wood cutting gets done on the idle throttle setting. The mix Ratio we use in our money (hopefully )making logging enterprise is dependent on the tree size being cut at the time,& varies between 32 & 40/1 the more oil being used on larger trees as the throttle is kept at WOT for a longer period of time In the early 40 years of servicing the saws we've never suffered a saw faiure that is /was oil related & as far as I remember had no plug fouling & we always get a better trade in deal from the place we trade them in as they have in the past stripped & found less wear etc on them at very similar hours run than saws using less oil in he mix.I am in no way trying to tell anyone the mix ratio they should run, only what the finding of ourselves has been over the years & yes we have run a number of saws at the recommended oil ratios & on stripping at around 1500/2000hr mark they had more wear on the moving bits than the more oil in the mix ones


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## r black

RandyinTN said:


> The cheapest oil I can find at Wal Mart.


perfect  i would get the walmart saw to match ... forgive me however if i don't follow your method...........walmart does sell some very high quality merchandise for sure  lol


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## jonny37

Amsoil Saber 85-1. Almost two years now with zero issues... That I know of


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## 1Alpha1

40:1 TruFuel.


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## kwikfix

Royal Purple 45 to 1


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## d1hamby




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## log_jammer

Echo Red Armor @ 40:1


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## ChipChomper

AMS oil Sabre at 50:1, Dolmar 50:1, or anything synthetic with a reputable brand. Maybe I'm throwing money away... Idk.

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## Icedogs28

Tru fuel 40:1
Local shop has 5 gallon drum for $90


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## Sty57

Icedogs28 said:


> Tru fuel 40:1
> Local shop has 5 gallon drum for $90


If I had to pay $18 a gal of fuel.
I'd switch to LP or fuel oil to heat my house and save a ton of money.


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## Deleted member 117362

Purchased Dolmar synthetic and looks, smells, same bottle as Husqvarna XP oil. Run it 40:1 in ethanol free fuel, time will tell.


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## gary courtney

Amsoil sabre 32:1


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## gary courtney

Tin-knocker said:


> No disrespect intended but why do you run 34:1 when most companies recommend 50:1 or 40:1. From what I know in a high performance 2 stroke engine you would have a richer premix like you run. I run what the manufacturer recommends and really try to dial in the jetting. The way I figure it their must be a reason why the manufacturer recommends that premix ratio.


Burned up lower ends until I went to 32:1. Not one since!


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## Icedogs28

Sty57 said:


> If I had to pay $18 a gal of fuel.
> I'd switch to LP or fuel oil to heat my house and save a ton of money.



It's worth it to not have ethenol in the fuel. It pays for itself over time when you NEVER have to rebuild the carb or replace seals.


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## rwoods

Switched several years ago to Stihl full synthetic - less smoke and carbon build-up so no turning back to dino. Recently brought a case of Dolmar full synthetic cheap - I swear my saws seem to run better. Might just be the neat blue color. Ron


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## GlynnC

rwoods said:


> Switched several years ago to Stihl full synthetic - less smoke and carbon build-up so no turning back to dino. Recently brought a case of Dolmar full synthetic cheap - I swear my saws seem to run better. Might just be the neat blue color. Ron


Glad to hear the Dolmar works good, I also bought a case while it was really cheap, haven’t used any yet, using up already opened bottles of this and that—mostly Red Armor!


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## Little Al

Tin-knocker said:


> Though you risk fouling plugs with a richer premix without adjusting your carburetor jetting right?
> I've read about the 16:1 ratio being the max for power gain but I thought I read that was mostly for dirtbike hill climbers that are pretty much pinned and not ran at mid or idle. I could be wrong can't remember when I came across that.


How many & how long do you cut with your saw at any other than wide open throttle ? none I hope or you are not using your saw as it was intended to be used the minute fuel mix ratio's have com about through the quest to reduce emissions & from a manufacturers point of view if it passes the emissions test & lasts the warranty period using xx/1 oil/fuel ratio thet're not going to recommend using more oil to prolong the lifespan of the piece of kit why make a saw lasts longer "Bad for company profit /trade I'd say since specialist 2smoke oil was developed I've used nothing but a 32/1 ratio in the works money earning & my own saws & never had an oil related or plug fouling problemto me correct carb tuning has much more effect than a extra tiny amount of oil in the mix


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## Oldengr

Still premium 2 stroke.


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## Miles86

Quicksilver PWC jasoFD or Mystik PWC jasoFD or Lubrication Engineers 8104 20:1 Unleaded nonethanol 90octane (Marathon REC90)
http://products.lelubricants.com/viewitems/all-engine-oils/monolec-two-cycle-engine-oil-8104
http://www.quicksilver-products.com/marine/personal-watercraft/engine-oil/full-synthetic-pwc-oil/


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## lone wolf

anlrolfe said:


> If it says JASO FD it's good for me.
> I've got a variety of oil kicking around that I've either gotten on sale on on impulse.
> Stihl Ultra or off brand from Wally-World and the hardware stores, it doesn't matter. 40:1 gets-er-done.
> I've probably got too much and should probably worry about the shelf life...
> One more oil thread and I'm going back to SAE 30


Well can you still buy stinky non detergent 30 weight straight?


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## lone wolf

*JASO JASO Oil Specifications*
*2T specifications*
Japeneese motorcycle manufacturers found the limits demanded by the API TC specifications too loose. Oils meeting the API TC standard still produced excessive smoke and could not prevent exhaust blocking. Therefore the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO) introduced the following specifications:

JASO FA
Original spec established regulating lubricity, detergency, initial torque, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking.
JASO FB
Increased lubricity, detergency, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking requirements over FA.
JASO FC
Lubricity and initial torque requirements same as FB, however far higher detergency, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking requirements over FB.
JASO FD
Same as FC with far higher detergency requirement.
Find out more about JASO's 2T specifications from their website.


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## Thefishguy77

Stihl premium at 50:1 for my saws, trimmers, and blowers on ethanol free 92
Ouicksilver for my outboards on 92 ethanol free
And 927 bean oil at 32:1 in my high performance 2stroke quad motors on 110 race gas. 

All run great. Quad goes through a plug on a hard weekend. Its stroked and heavily ported, intake, exhaust, and transfer ports. 


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## Sterling Bronemann

Amsoil Sabre at 50:1. Bought it in a gallon jug as it's much cheaper and I go through quite a bit in my trimmer/blower/edger/chainsaws. Run them all 50:1. Run Amsoil in all my vehicles and small engine stuff.


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## JaysSD114

Ran Stihl for years in my Sachs/Dolmar and Stihl weedeater and Blower. It would plug the screens periodically and almost completely plugged the muffler on my blower. Ran good though if all was clean. Recently bought some Opti-2 to try. Staying with 50:1 though even they say 100:1. Although I am trying 100:1 in my Hitachi leaf blower. I will say one thing, the opti-2 is waayy cleaner burning. There is no smell.


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## ThreeDFlyer

Running Stihl Premium at 50:1 in all my saws, trimmers and leaf blowers for years with no issues. 
I run 40:1 Amsoil Dominator in my dirt bike and 100:1 Amsoil Saber in my R/C airplanes but switching to Redline due to carbon fouling.

Absolutely no ethanol fuel in my small engines.


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## lone wolf

gary courtney said:


> Amsoil sabre 32:1


Just pulled a piston out of a 200T last night that was run on Amsoil Sabre 40 to 1 for 5 years it looked nice and clean in there no scoring at all. The muffler was carboned up but not the engine.


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## boltonranger

Thefishguy77 said:


> Quad goes through a plug on a hard weekend



This is something I haven’t heard before. 
Can you elaborate?


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## lone wolf

Thefishguy77 said:


> Stihl premium at 50:1 for my saws, trimmers, and blowers on ethanol free 92
> Ouicksilver for my outboards on 92 ethanol free
> And 927 bean oil at 32:1 in my high performance 2stroke quad motors on 110 race gas.
> 
> All run great. Quad goes through a plug on a hard weekend. Its stroked and heavily ported, intake, exhaust, and transfer ports.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I suppose you mean it fouls the plug? If so it aint jetted right or something is off.


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## Thefishguy77

lone wolf said:


> I suppose you mean it fouls the plug? If so it aint jetted right or something is off.



We run them just a slight touch rich. Sometimes we have to come back via the beach. Blown a few up WFO on a 3-4 mile run. 



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## lone wolf

Thefishguy77 said:


> We run them just a slight touch rich. Sometimes we have to come back via the beach. Blown a few up WFO on a 3-4 mile run.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sand will do that.


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## A10egress

Husq XP oil seems to be fine my by saws/ leaf blowers, ect.... usually mix 40:1 to ethanol free gas when i can find it.


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## NYH1

Amsoil Sabre 50:1 with 90 octane ethanol free fuel. 

NYH1.


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## NYH1

NYH1 said:


> Amsoil Sabre 50:1 with 90 octane ethanol free fuel.
> 
> NYH1.


A few weeks ago I bought my son a Jonsered CS 2258. He's trying as hard as he can to wear it out. He's been running it about everyday.

So we needed more mix yesterday. I ordered a case of Amsoil Sabre oil last year in 8 oz. bottles. Our main mix can is 2.5 gal's.

So for 50:1 it's 6.5 oz. of oil for 2.5 gal's of fuel. For 40:1 it's 8 oz. of oil for 2.5 gal's. of fuel. 

It's so much easier to just dump the whole bottle of oil into the gas can instead of this much, then having bottles with a little bit left over and pouring them into one another ect.

So we're gonna give Amsoil Sabre 40:1 with 90 octane ethanol free fuel a try. 

NYH1.


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## jrs_diesel

Echo power Blend at 50:1, mixed in 91 octane. Goes in all of my 2 stroke yard equipment.


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## K Mueller

I run the Amsoil Sabre 50:1

I just used my last bottle and it’s hard to find so I think I’m gonna go to the Klotz oil. Ran a Klotz mix in my Snowmachine with good results. I’m also not opposed to trying Red Armour as I have a Echo dealer close by.


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## rngrchad

H1R; 50:1.


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## JaysSD114

I'm kind of amazed looking at the poll that "other" is far exceeding the stihl, husky, echo oils as those are the norm around here.


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## Deleted member 117362

JaysSD114 said:


> I'm kind of amazed looking at the poll that "other" is far exceeding the stihl, husky, echo oils as those are the norm around here.


I don't see Husky xp on the poll?


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## Cope1024

jrs_diesel said:


> Echo power Blend at 50:1, mixed in 91 octane. Goes in all of my 2 stroke yard equipment.



I use Echo Red Armor 50:1 with 89 octane, but I could be happy with your recipe.


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## chucker

quaker state, air cooled oil @ 50:1 = 2.70 ounces per gallon of non oxygenated 91 ...……...


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## JustinSL

Maxima K2 50:1 93 octane pump gas in MS310 , MS201tcm , and FS 70 trimmer.


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## Ilmater

Oils I have on hand:

Pennzoil Air Cooled (dino) (the real stuff , no "outdoor" on the label).
Mobil 1 Racing 2T (16 quarts approx)
Putoline MHX (SAE 50, 100% Ester, Jaso C++ ISO, etc)
Lubrication Engineers LE8104 (dino oil with proprietary anti-wear additive, API-TC, haven't tried this one yet, SAE 40)

Oils I will *never use*:
Lucas Semi synth (many people report extremely dry running even at 32, and 25 to 1, several people reported engines destroyed by this oil after awhile)
Amsoil Saber (not going to get into why, you can find out if you're so inclined and have the time to dig into a bunch of different forums about it).
Amsoil Dominator (sub par rust protection).
Redline Racing 2 stroke (rust, corrosion from hygroscopic esters, Redline should fix the formulation to address this, many have reported rusted internal parts, tarnished carb jets
Klotz R50 (can't stand the smell, disgusting, like a bad cotton candy recipe, only burnt).
Stihl HP Ultra (you can find out why).
Putoline RS959 (do not use anymore because the smell is disgustingly sweet).
Red Armor (formlation cheapened, ester dropped from SDS, yet price remained, obviousl profit driven over quality)


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## Ilmater

Miles86 said:


> Quicksilver PWC jasoFD or Mystik PWC jasoFD or Lubrication Engineers 8104 20:1 Unleaded nonethanol 90octane (Marathon REC90)
> http://products.lelubricants.com/viewitems/all-engine-oils/monolec-two-cycle-engine-oil-8104


What are your thoughts, and observations of running the LE 8104?


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## Little Al

Tin-knocker said:


> Yamalube 2r for the dirtbikes (32:1) and stihl high performance for the saws (50:1)


I always get confused when folk quote a more oilier mix for kit only running WOT for perhaps 30% of the time against a less oilier mix for kit that has 2 throttle positions WOT & Idle of which WOT is at least 80% of the time As said before each to their own


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## Little Al

JaysSD114 said:


> I'm kind of amazed looking at the poll that "other" is far exceeding the stihl, husky, echo oils as those are the norm around here.


Most folk into 2smokemotors know that there is superior oil on the market to the saws manufactures own label it's a bit of a task to read the specs + understanding requires a bit of studying


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## JTM

I bought a few bottles of VP oil and mix at 40:1. I like the smell so it must be good.


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## Huskybill

From working on the dirtbikes using super maxima it looks like the husky 50:1 2t oil.
I did run my saws on the husky oil at 2,3 gallon to 2,5 oil can. A tad rich. Now since husky made it fool proof the 50:1 mix in the can looked ok. But you guys here say to run it richer on oil. I think I’ll go back to 40:1 keep your saws happy, happy and they’ll treat you good.


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## AnthemBassMan

I use Amsoil Saber at 50:1 in my saw and trimmer. I use Pennzoil Outdoor at 32:1 in my 43 and 45 year old Lawn Boys. Both also get about an ounce of Sta-Bil 360 Marine formula to the cans along with premium fuel.

L8R,
Matt


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## trains

Castrol 2T at 32:1, buy it in 20lt drums, also use Castrol bar oil as I order it at the same time with the rest of the oil order.

T


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## U&A

Redline. 

Ester based 2 stroke oil is the best in the world. Everything else is sub par 





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## Ilmater

Engines below 50cc's Minimum fuel to oil ratio 20:1, currently breaking in a new handheld blower at 18:1 on *Lubrication Engineers SAE 40 LE8104* (Dino oil). I also have on hand a pretty good stockpile of long discontinued *Pennzoil Air Cooled* (the real stuff, not the one with "Outdoor" on the label, if it says "Outdoor" it is not the same and not as good). Corrosion protection is an area significantly overlooked by many. You can have all the high-end ester based synthetics you want, the possibly slightly less wear you would get from them over a non-synthetic won't have been worth it if your engine internals develop rust, which is especially more of an issue in high humidity environments.

Engines 50cc and above, 25:1. I do have 2 different synthetics on hand (one virtually impossible to find anywhere now, Putoline MHX (SAE 50, 18cst @ 100c) and Mobil 1 Racing 2t). I don't know if their anti-rust capabilities are comparable to the aforementioned dino oils, although M1 Racing claims to be effective in this area despite being an ester.

No fouled plugs, no ooze dripping out of mufflers because I'm using oil that burns cleanly and more completely than a lot of the stuff out there.



U&A said:


> Redline.
> 
> Ester based 2 stroke oil is the best in the world. Everything else is sub par



https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/816353-redline-2-stroke-premix-oil/

"Redline: This was a strange oil. The piston and cylinder looked good, with minor shiny spots but no scuffing, and everything was reasonably clean and well-lubed. But this oil actually left surface rust on the crank wheels, and tarnished the carb brass. It also had a tendency to gum up the carb jets for some reason. How a metal surface can be both oily and have rust on it is beyond me, but clearly this oil lacks any proper corrosion-inhibitors, and it must have very high levels of esters that give it a strong hygroscopic effect. I would never use it again, nor could I recommend it."

"I will never ever use Redline again, for exactly the reasons you mention. It tarnishes the carb brass, clogs the jets if allowed to sit without being drained, and allows surface rust to form on the crank. I used it for an entire top-end life, and will never touch it again."

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2428749

"Redline Racing Oil, 2t, is a known rust/corrosion promoter. I lost a weedwacker due to *massive internal rust*, along with my Husqvarna 360WXC crankshaft. It was unbelievable, the rust and corrosion was everywhere and unstoppable. "

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2269303

"Redline makes some fantastic products. I use many of them regularly.

However, if you are talking about Redline Racing Oil (2t), that is not a product for the non racer. And especially not for lawn equipment.

*It promotes corrosion of internal brass carb parts and does not prevent internal engine corrosion* (remember, most 2 stroke oils do a great job of preventing internal engine corrosion). I actually had a ryobi fail on this stuff! Took it apart and guess what I found? RUST!



Tin-knocker said:


> No disrespect intended but why do you run 34:1 when most companies recommend 50:1 or 40:1. From what I know in a high performance 2 stroke engine you would have a richer premix like you run. I run what the manufacturer recommends and really try to dial in the jetting. The way I figure it their must be a reason why the manufacturer recommends that premix ratio.


"manufacturer recommends"/"manufacturer recommendation". There is no such thing when it comes to fuel to oil ratios, and what I mean by that is this: they are *ONLY* "recommending" that because the EPA forced increasingly damaging emissions regulations on them over the past several decades. A Husqvarna chainsaw sold in the US will "recommend" 50:1, whereas in Australia where the EPA has no jurisdiction, the same saw will cite *25:1* (double the amount of oil) to even be covered under warranty.


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## lone wolf

Ilmater said:


> Engines below 50cc's Minimum fuel to oil ratio 20:1, currently breaking in a new handheld blower at 18:1 on *Lubrication Engineers SAE 40 LE8104* (Dino oil). I also have on hand a pretty good stockpile of long discontinued *Pennzoil Air Cooled* (the real stuff, not the one with "Outdoor" on the label, if it says "Outdoor" it is not the same and not as good). Corrosion protection is an area significantly overlooked by many. You can have all the high-end ester based synthetics you want, the possibly slightly less wear you would get from them over a non-synthetic won't have been worth it if your engine internals develop rust, which is especially more of an issue in high humidity environments.
> 
> Engines 50cc and above, 25:1. I do have 2 different synthetics on hand (one virtually impossible to find anywhere now, Putoline MHX (SAE 50, 18cst @ 100c) and Mobil 1 Racing 2t). I don't know if their anti-rust capabilities are comparable to the aforementioned dino oils, although M1 Racing claims to be effective in this area despite being an ester.
> 
> No fouled plugs, no ooze dripping out of mufflers because I'm using oil that burns cleanly and more completely than a lot of the stuff out there.
> 
> 
> https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/816353-redline-2-stroke-premix-oil/
> 
> "Redline: This was a strange oil. The piston and cylinder looked good, with minor shiny spots but no scuffing, and everything was reasonably clean and well-lubed. But this oil actually left surface rust on the crank wheels, and tarnished the carb brass. It also had a tendency to gum up the carb jets for some reason. How a metal surface can be both oily and have rust on it is beyond me, but clearly this oil lacks any proper corrosion-inhibitors, and it must have very high levels of esters that give it a strong hygroscopic effect. I would never use it again, nor could I recommend it."
> 
> "I will never ever use Redline again, for exactly the reasons you mention. It tarnishes the carb brass, clogs the jets if allowed to sit without being drained, and allows surface rust to form on the crank. I used it for an entire top-end life, and will never touch it again."
> 
> https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2428749
> 
> "Redline Racing Oil, 2t, is a known rust/corrosion promoter. I lost a weedwacker due to *massive internal rust*, along with my Husqvarna 360WXC crankshaft. It was unbelievable, the rust and corrosion was everywhere and unstoppable. "
> 
> https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2269303
> 
> "Redline makes some fantastic products. I use many of them regularly.
> 
> However, if you are talking about Redline Racing Oil (2t), that is not a product for the non racer. And especially not for lawn equipment.
> 
> *It promotes corrosion of internal brass carb parts and does not prevent internal engine corrosion* (remember, most 2 stroke oils do a great job of preventing internal engine corrosion). I actually had a ryobi fail on this stuff! Took it apart and guess what I found? RUST!
> 
> 
> "manufacturer recommends"/"manufacturer recommendation". There is no such thing when it comes to fuel to oil ratios, and what I mean by that is this: they are *ONLY* "recommending" that because the EPA forced increasingly damaging emissions regulations on them over the past several decades. A Husqvarna chainsaw sold in the US will "recommend" 50:1, whereas in Australia where the EPA has no jurisdiction, the same saw will cite *25:1* (double the amount of oil) to even be covered under warranty.


----------



## Little Al

Ryan'smilling said:


> Well sure, there's a reason, or maybe several reasons, but what are they?
> 
> Better performance?
> Longer lifespan?
> Shorter lifespan?
> Lower emissions?
> 
> The OEMs used to recommend higher ratios of oil, and there's testing numbers that indicate a 2-stroke will make more power the more oil you add, up to about 16:1. Adding a little more to a gallon of fuel doesn't really change your tune much, you're only changing the amount of fuel in the mix very little, but you can add some extra lube to the bottom end, which isn't a bad thing .


I would guess the manufacturer would consider #4 & 3 in that order the for the recommendation of 50 or north mix ratio's


----------



## Scandy14

I use Stihl Ultra religiously @ 42:1 which is 3 oz to a gallon. I buy oil by the gallon to save money. And, I encourage everyone to run a synthetic oil whether it be Ultra or some other synthetic. Occasionally I run Klotz R50 just to enjoy the aroma......lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ryan'smilling

Scandy14 said:


> I use Stihl Ultra religiously @ 42:1 which is 3 oz to a gallon. I buy oil by the gallon to save money. And, I encourage everyone to run a synthetic oil whether it be Ultra or some other synthetic. Occasionally I run Klotz R50 just to enjoy the aroma......lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I hate that stuff. Smells godawful and gives me a headache. Ultra that is. Haven't run Klotz.


----------



## Little Al

Ryan'smilling said:


> I hate that stuff. Smells godawful and gives me a headache. Ultra that is. Haven't run Klotz.


 Only half way up the league of best product but near the top for price there are a good #of better buys


----------



## ChoppyChoppy

I don't even remember. I bought a case of something off the eBay last year. Was advertised on here. Have enough to make probably 200 gallons. I go through maybe 20-30 gallons a year.


----------



## Miles86

BelRay MC1 or H1R or Marine HP
Quicksilver PWC 2 cycle (excellent)


----------



## champion221elite

Amsoil Saber Professional. Mixed at 3 oz per gallon. Mix ratio ends up right around 43:1.

I've used lots of different oil. The only one that ever caused issues was Quicksilver Premium outboard oil. It kept clogging the exhaust port of my leaf blower with hard, crusty carbon deposits. It runs fine in my liquid cooled snowmobile.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Wesson oil works OK right. Or maybe just say no cause its clean. Maybe the 43rd time have seen this. Thanks


----------



## wesmahaffee

Stens synthetic


----------



## Woodslasher

Stihl. I talked with a retired logger and he raised a good point. Stihl extends the warranty on their saws if you only use their mix which means they've got to be pretty confident in it.


----------



## ChipChomper

ChipChomper said:


> AMS oil Sabre at 50:1, Dolmar 50:1, or anything synthetic with a reputable brand. Maybe I'm throwing money away... Idk.
> 
> Sent from my XT1526 using Tapatalk



I have since switched to 40:1 ratio, again anything synthetic with a reputable brand


----------



## U&A

Motul 800 2T road racing at 40:1-50:1 depending on the saw. 

Ester based[emoji847]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## U&A

champion221elite said:


> Amsoil Saber Professional. Mixed at 3 oz per gallon. Mix ratio ends up right around 43:1.
> 
> I've used lots of different oil. The only one that ever caused issues was Quicksilver Premium outboard oil. It kept clogging the exhaust port of my leaf blower with hard, crusty carbon deposits. It runs fine in my liquid cooled snowmobile.



Might be because it’s an outboard oil meant to be run in lower rpm liquid cooled engines.

Same deal as when TCW3 was being used for a while and it is definitely not a good choice for air cooled high rpm two-stroke. 




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## CR888

Ilmater said:


> "manufacturer recommendation". There is no such thing when it comes to fuel to oil ratios, and what I mean by that is this: they are *ONLY* "recommending" that because the EPA forced increasingly damaging emissions regulations on them over the past several decades. A Husqvarna chainsaw sold in the US will "recommend" 50:1, whereas in Australia where the EPA has no jurisdiction, the same saw will cite *25:1* (double the amount of oil) to even be covered under warranty.


Firstly i agree with pretty much you whole post generally but the last paragraph may be your opinion & not fact. I live in Australia, we have an EPA as do most if not all 1st world countries. Husky here advises 50:1. Not sure the EPA enforces oil ratio recommendations on OEM's. Do you have any proof that they do?


----------



## AnthemBassMan

My Wife got me a Hitachi gas leaf blower and in the manual it says the recommended mix ratio is 25:1 to 50:1. I'll just run the same mix that I've been using. Amsoil Saber at now 40:1 in ethanol free fuel since that gas station just up the road added an ethanol free pump. Now it's one gas can for everything I have.

L8R,
Matt


----------



## champion221elite

CR888 said:


> Firstly i agree with pretty much you whole post generally but the last paragraph may be your opinion & not fact. I live in Australia, we have an EPA as do most if not all 1st world countries. Husky here advises 50:1. Not sure the EPA enforces oil ratio recommendations on OEM's. Do you have any proof that they do?



The EPA does not enforce oil mix ratios. They do however set emissions levels. The manufacturers have to figure out how to balance power output, engine longevity, weight and many other things for a product. Oil mix ratio is taken into account when making these calculations.


----------



## U&A

champion221elite said:


> The EPA does not enforce oil mix ratios. They do however set emissions levels. The manufacturers have to figure out how to balance power output, engine longevity, weight and many other things for a product. Oil mix ratio is taken into account when making these calculations.



BINGO!!!


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


----------



## Joisey

Amsoil Sabre @50:1 in everything. Been using it for the past 10 years in Lawnboys, Husky trimmer, Homelite XL12, Homelite XL, Craftsman blower. Zero trouble. Neighbor has a lawn business. Amsoil Sabre is all he has used for over 10 years.


----------



## motorhead99999

Above freezing I run castor 927 
Below freezing I run ams oil dominator 
Both at 50:1. I run these oils because I have cases of it from the dirt bikes and quads I use to run a lot. And they smell the best in my opinion


----------



## 1hander

stihl premium


----------



## ammoaddict

old guy said:


> Lucas semi sinthetic


Old thread I know but just wondering if you are still using this oil and still like it, thanks

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


----------



## old guy

ammoaddict said:


> Old thread I know but just wondering if you are still using this oil and still like it, thanks
> 
> Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


I never had a problem with it, but now use scheaffer 9000.


----------



## mexicanyella

I have been using whatever was cheap at the gas station, mixing 32:1 with regular old 87 octane with ethanol on it and tuning for that mix, for years. I can hear the palms slapping the foreheads, and I know a lot of people get good service out of various tools with 50:1 and have been for years. But a variety of trimmers and saws have performed well for me on the 32:1 so that’s what I do. (Including a Stihl FS72 trimmer with about a zillion hours on it, bought new in 1992, still on its original fuel lines and only now starting to show signs of needing a carb kit! I pulled the spark arrestor screen out several years ago for the first time and it was not plugged, the port looked okay and the piston did too.)

I run trimmers pretty hard, clearing big areas inaccessible to the tractor, so maybe the long periods at fairly high throttle openings keep the exhausts burned cleaner than people who are trimming around fences and flowers at lower engine speeds. But my experience leads me to believe that 32:1 puts plenty of oil into the engine without being too dirty and requiring undue decarbonization effort.

I bought some Stihl Ultra oil last week though to try it, and it does smell better than the gas station cheap oil. Kind of reminds me of being around two-stroke MX bikes running synthetic premix oil. Maybe I ought to try some Klotz or Maxima or Bel-Ray next.


----------



## The Lorax

Motul 800 Offroad, or Maxima K2
Both excellent oils IMHO


----------



## lone wolf

Joisey said:


> Amsoil Sabre @50:1 in everything. Been using it for the past 10 years in Lawnboys, Husky trimmer, Homelite XL12, Homelite XL, Craftsman blower. Zero trouble. Neighbor has a lawn business. Amsoil Sabre is all he has used for over 10 years.


Same here but 40 to 1 .


----------



## wmazz

I am not into chainsaws and power equipment, but this is a subject near &
dear to my heart 

I run 20:1, and I prefer oils that are high quality synthetics and castor. People
have mentioned Yamalube 2R, 927, Maxima, Bel Ray and many more. 

I run 20:1 in my watercraft race engines, because of documented dyno tests,
and manufacture testing (like Husqvarna MX), testing I completed while working
for a Watercraft manufacture, and racing experience. 

Back in the 90's (in Calif. The Smog Law capitol ) The manufactures recognized
that when a watercraft started with a cloud of smoke, that was a bad look for
2-stroke engines (Yamaha was the worst). So many manufactured oils to smoke
less. 

A common seizure on watercraft occurs on a short wot run and the engine suddenly
shuts off, and then restarts like nothing ever happened. The seizure is so benign, 
that most customers keep riding their watercraft until the engine seized 10 to 20 
more times and it finally doesn't restart. 

The most common cause is an impeller with too much pitch. People think they can
just add a larger impeller and they will go faster. But the impeller loads down the 
engine, holds the rpm ~1000 r's below peak hp and creates a lot of extra heat that 
leads to detonation and finally preignition. 

One of my riders made that mistake (while using 20:1 Maxima 927), and if he was 
running 40 or 50:1 it should have seized on his first wot pass. If he had used a 
tachometer he would have known the rpm was too low, and to take it back home.

But he didn't have a tach. He continued to test and made the situation worse. When 
the engine finally seized, it locked up so hard that the impeller and driveline kept 
turning. It twisted the drive shaft, and bent the drive shaft nearly 90' and shoved it 
through the hull and it sank. 

IMO, running 20:1 927 prevented the engine from seizing initially. But when it did
finally seize, it seized hard.


Bill M.


----------



## Robin Wood

wmazz said:


> I am not into chainsaws and power equipment, but this is a subject near &
> dear to my heart
> 
> I run 20:1, and I prefer oils that are high quality synthetics and castor. People
> have mentioned Yamalube 2R, 927, Maxima, Bel Ray and many more.
> 
> I run 20:1 in my watercraft race engines, because of documented dyno tests,
> and manufacture testing (like Husqvarna MX), testing I completed while working
> for a Watercraft manufacture, and racing experience.
> 
> Back in the 90's (in Calif. The Smog Law capitol ) The manufactures recognized
> that when a watercraft started with a cloud of smoke, that was a bad look for
> 2-stroke engines (Yamaha was the worst). So many manufactured oils to smoke
> less.
> 
> A common seizure on watercraft occurs on a short wot run and the engine suddenly
> shuts off, and then restarts like nothing ever happened. The seizure is so benign,
> that most customers keep riding their watercraft until the engine seized 10 to 20
> more times and it finally doesn't restart.
> 
> The most common cause is an impeller with too much pitch. People think they can
> just add a larger impeller and they will go faster. But the impeller loads down the
> engine, holds the rpm ~1000 r's below peak hp and creates a lot of extra heat that
> leads to detonation and finally preignition.
> 
> One of my riders made that mistake (while using 20:1 Maxima 927), and if he was
> running 40 or 50:1 it should have seized on his first wot pass. If he had used a
> tachometer he would have known the rpm was too low, and to take it back home.
> 
> But he didn't have a tach. He continued to test and made the situation worse. When
> the engine finally seized, it locked up so hard that the impeller and driveline kept
> turning. It twisted the drive shaft, and bent the drive shaft nearly 90' and shoved it
> through the hull and it sank.
> 
> IMO, running 20:1 927 prevented the engine from seizing initially. But when it did
> finally seize, it seized hard.
> 
> 
> Bill M.


I agree completely
Heat burns oil period, no argument in that
In long hard cuts like milling, you'll need more oil to compensate for the extra heat thats burning oil faster than its going in
I mix my 100 over cc with 25:1, because they get pushed hard when they come out for the big hardwoods
Good post

Sent from my INE-LX2r using Tapatalk


----------



## John Lyngdal

lone wolf said:


> Same here but 40 to 1 .


I appear to be in good company, +1 on 40:1 Sabre in ethanol free fuel.
Run the same mix on 25cc trimmers to 100cc old school Homelites.


----------



## ammoaddict

For those that are on the other site as well, there is a guy doing oil tests. He called Amsoil and the tech told him to use dominator in his ported saw instead of saber.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


----------



## holeycow

dominator is an oil that you can run in the 30:1 range and still have no spooge or carbon buildup.


----------



## Fatherwheels

Sty57 said:


> If I had to pay $18 a gal of fuel.
> I'd switch to LP or fuel oil to heat my house and save a ton of money.


Would 5 gallons of fuel cut 5 cord of wood, that’s still cheaper than buying LP
or Kerosene.


----------



## Fatherwheels

Little Al said:


> How many & how long do you cut with your saw at any other than wide open throttle ? none I hope or you are not using your saw as it was intended to be used the minute fuel mix ratio's have com about through the quest to reduce emissions & from a manufacturers point of view if it passes the emissions test & lasts the warranty period using xx/1 oil/fuel ratio thet're not going to recommend using more oil to prolong the lifespan of the piece of kit why make a saw lasts longer "Bad for company profit /trade I'd say since specialist 2smoke oil was developed I've used nothing but a 32/1 ratio in the works money earning & my own saws & never had an oil related or plug fouling problemto me correct carb tuning has much more effect than a extra tiny amount of oil in the mix


Yea, I couldn’t understand why any position other than full open or there abouts
would be of any use, unless you wanted to tickle the wood.


----------



## Den69RS96

I’ve use Stihl ultra, or husky xp. Lately I’ve been using VP racing synthetic oil all mixed at 50:1


----------



## MacAttack

I can honestly say after switching over entirely to Echo Power Blend...I don't end up smelling like 2 stroke exhaust as bad, and it does not smoke as much as the previous conventional oil I was using . Using it 40:1


----------



## WPanhandler

I stihl use Mobil 1 R2T


----------



## 6012HD

Just bought a Stihl BG86 blower with 3 cans of Stihl MotoMix 50:1 for an extra 2 years of warranty.


----------



## ray benson

WPanhandler said:


> I stihl use Mobil 1 R2T


It was discontinued in about 2007, haven't seen any around here. Where are you getting it?


----------



## VA 372xp

I use lucus 9.99 a quart any one else use it ?


----------



## Nholme

I normally use klotz snowmobile oil burns clean smells good @ 32:1 trying out lucas @ 32:1 little saw spits oil out.of the muff the big saw does not spit at all and smokes way less maybe more power and heat in the big saw is burning the oil completely?


----------



## windthrown

Its the only oil to use... the favorite brand in the PNW


----------



## windthrown

Nholme said:


> I normally use klotz snowmobile oil burns clean smells good @ 32:1 trying out lucas @ 32:1 little saw spits oil out.of the muff the big saw does not spit at all and smokes way less maybe more power and heat in the big saw is burning the oil completely?


Bad idea. Klotz snowmobile oil is TC-W3 marine water cooled engine oil. NEVER use TC-W3 oil in an air cooled engine like a chainsaw. NEVER NEVER NEVER.

You want to use an oil designed for air cooled engines, and preferably API TC, JASO FC/FD or ISO-E/GD certified oil designed for air cooled engines. Not TC-W3 rated oil, water cooled 2-stroke oil, or any "all-purpose" 2-stroke oil. Seriously. I only use 100% synthetic JASO FD oil in my air cooled 2-stroke engines. They will last my lifetime that way.


----------



## Nholme

windthrown said:


> Bad idea. Klotz snowmobile oil is TC-W3 marine water cooled engine oil. NEVER use TC-W3 oil in an air cooled engine like a chainsaw. NEVER NEVER NEVER.
> 
> You want to use an oil designed for air cooled engines, and preferably API TC, JASO FC/FD or ISO-E/GD certified oil designed for air cooled engines. Not TC-W3 rated oil, water cooled 2-stroke oil, or any "all-purpose" 2-stroke oil. Seriously. I only use 100% synthetic JASO FD oil in my air cooled 2-stroke engines. They will last my lifetime that way.


These are low performance engines, its not that big of a deal. You think an oil that keeps an 150 hp 2 cylinder 800 tec togather @ 8200 rpm wont keep a measly 5hp saw togather? Pretty sure an 800 etec could get hotter than any chainsaw could imagine


----------



## Fatherwheels

TC-W3 was used in our 041 Stihl, it’s over 40 now and still goes, mind you we ran 30wt when
when we ran out.


----------



## r black

hey look ..an oil thread from 2017 .... how different is that ....


----------



## Nholme

Maybe if the saws were indeed high performance i could see tcw-3 ruining them but they are not, an ms661 make 7.5- 8hp? @ 92cc's your run of the mill honda cr 80 makes 20.5 hp which is hi performance. These saws are not picky long as they have decent oil film they will run they are not run nearly as hard as an mx bike or 125cc shifter kart


----------



## sean donato

The klotz snowmobile oil is also reccomended for the fan air and free air sleds. The twc rating was needed for the liquid sleds, and ironically what was reccomend by a klotz tech after a phone conversation that followed up after an email I had recieved from them. It's basically all the same base, with the additive package being the difference from what I understood. The snowmobile techniplate, has a higher concentration of anti corrosion additives then some of their oils.


----------



## Nholme

sean donato said:


> The klotz snowmobile oil is also reccomended for the fan air and free air sleds. The twc rating was needed for the liquid sleds, and ironically what was reccomend by a klotz tech after a phone conversation that followed up after an email I had recieved from them. It's basically all the same base, with the additive package being the difference from what I understood. The snowmobile techniplate, has a higher concentration of anti corrosion additives then some of their oils.


Thats what similar to what i had heard which is why i run lucas also has good anti corrosion package but klotz smells better for sure and seems to rev better on the high end maybe because its full synthetic vs semi synthetic but at either price point still cheaper than echo red armor 80$ a gallon and stihl @ 100$ a gallon


----------



## president

gary courtney said:


> Burned up lower ends until I went to 32:1. Not one since!


Mr Haney, ( green acres ) stick to pots & pans


----------



## windthrown

Amazing how all the AS noobs are always the experts. And these statements like, "My daddy ran his saw on Mrs Butterworth's pancake syrup and it ran just fine for years and years." Sure... and saws will run on crappy 2 stroke marine oil... for a while. But they will not not run as well or as long as they will using JASO rated oils designed for air cooled engines. Different world of 2-strokes. There is no one oil for both that works best for both. Claim all you want here, but I will reiterate: running TC-W3 oil in a chainsaws IS A BAD IDEA. But hey, what would I know? I am just a multi-degreed engineer with many years experience in a failure analysis lab and owning over 100 chainsaws now for over 50 years. 

All you oil experts here know so much more than I do that... its simply AMAZING. Why I heard the other day that global warming is caused by social injustice in 'Merica. So it MUST BE TRUE! Right? If we rid this country of all the evil white racists and all their hatred, global warming will be reversed. Poof. Like magic.


----------



## TBS

""Those saying they mix at 44:1 34:1 26:1 18:1""


----------



## Goinwheelin

Delo 400 sae 30. Best ever


----------



## windthrown

TheBrushSlasher said:


> ""Those saying they mix at 44:1 34:1 26:1 18:1""


I run 3oz of rated, tested and labeled as such JASO FD oil per gallon myself. Mostly 'cause I am lazy. But that is perzactly 42.6666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666 to 1.


----------



## TBS

Goinwheelin said:


> Delo 400 sae 30. Best ever


Canned Homelite SAE 30 is the best ever.


----------



## U&A

windthrown said:


> I run 3oz of rated, tested and labeled as such JASO FD oil per gallon myself. Mostly 'cause I am lazy. But that is perzactly 42.6666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666666 to 1.



Ever actually weight the liquid oz’s in an oil bottle. They are always way short. Like almost full oz off. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Huskybill

More posts to an two stroke oil thread......

I use Husqvarna two stroke oil mixed 38:1 not 50:1 or 40:1 run it a tad oil rich.


----------



## Goinwheelin

TheBrushSlasher said:


> Canned Homelite SAE 30 is the best ever.


Opinions vary.


----------



## sundance

U&A said:


> Ever actually weight the liquid oz’s in an oil bottle. They are always way short. Like almost full oz off.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Weight ounces and fluid ounces aren't the same thing. Fluid ounce is a volume measurement.


----------



## U&A

sundance said:


> Weight ounces and fluid ounces aren't the same thing. Fluid ounce is a volume measurement.



Your misunderstanding 

Yes they are different. Oz in weight and fl oz

But some scales CAN weigh out things in fluid oz’s

Mine will[emoji1303][emoji1303]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sundance

U&A said:


> Your misunderstanding
> 
> Yes they are different. Oz in weight and fl oz
> 
> But some scales CAN weigh out things in fluid oz’s
> 
> Mine will[emoji1303][emoji1303]
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'd assume you have to know the specific gravity to input?


----------



## southpaw

Just when I thought I was out , they pull me back in !


----------



## Nholme

TheBrushSlasher said:


> ""Those saying they mix at 44:1 34:1 26:1 18:1""


Husqvarna did research on this in the 70's using a dyno synthetic oil 50:1 vs 24:1 the piston and connecting rod bearings exhibited less wear than 50:1 but they crank bearings wore just the same. Gordon Jennings sae experiment with benol and a suzuki pe 250 validated what husky reported more oil = less wear and more oil made more power due to better ring seal 50:1 was down 7% power compared to 32:1, 32:1 was down 3% power to 18:1


----------



## southpaw

U&A said:


> Your misunderstanding
> 
> Yes they are different. Oz in weight and fl oz
> 
> But some scales CAN weigh out things in fluid oz’s
> 
> Mine will[emoji1303][emoji1303]
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My old lady would buy some device like this at the dollar store, I think just to irritate me


----------



## 59Billy

r black said:


> hey look ..an oil thread from 2017 .... how different is that ....


In our ever-changing world, I find oil threads oddly reassuring.


----------



## r black

well then.... you will not be disappointed on how many you find here ....


----------



## Ted Jenkins

r black said:


> are they low performance ?


As a matter of fact is there a lower performance than a chain saw? On second thought maybe a weed eater or blower could hold the bottom or close. Thanks


----------



## brandonstc6

I now use Kawasaki K-tech 2 cycle oil. The first gallon I bought was $43 a gallon. The last gallon I bought was $26 a gallon. It’s great oil and FD rated. I run it at 40:1 in everything, even 2 stroke lawn boy mowers and Suzuki powered toro 2 strokes. I go through about 3/4 a gallon of 2 cycle oil a summer. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## r black

Ted Jenkins said:


> As a matter of fact is there a lower performance than a chain saw? On second thought maybe a weed eater or blower could hold the bottom or close. Thanks


 2 stroke , lawn mower , post hole digger , edger , string trimmer, Roto tiller , ice auger , air cooled boat motor , blower , snow blower .....and on and on ..


----------



## sean donato

r black said:


> 2 stroke , lawn mower , post hole digger , edger , string trimmer, Roto tiller , ice auger , air cooled boat motor , blower , snow blower .....and on and on ..


I think most general use 2 strokes fall into the lower power category.... but honestly the "high performance" engines run just fine on any decent oil as well. What we consider performance in the saw world is run of the mill for other 2 stroke engines. Stock 32cc zenoah rc engines put out around 4.5hp. Ported good pipe and bigger carb normally nets between 7(piston port) and 9 hp (reed case) have a few that I've lost count of how many gallons of fuel have been through. Then you have sleds, bikes, and quads all out performing home and forest 2 strokes and living good long lives with quality oil. So yes I can agree our saws and power equipment falls in the mid to low power output category.


----------



## Nholme

sean donato said:


> I think most general use 2 strokes fall into the lower power category.... but honestly the "high performance" engines run just fine on any decent oil as well. What we consider performance in the saw world is run of the mill for other 2 stroke engines. Stock 32cc zenoah rc engines put out around 4.5hp. Ported good pipe and bigger carb normally nets between 7(piston port) and 9 hp (reed case) have a few that I've lost count of how many gallons of fuel have been through. Then you have sleds, bikes, and quads all out performing home and forest 2 strokes and living good long lives with quality oil. So yes I can agree our saws and power equipment falls in the mid to low power output category.


I agree they low performance thats probably why they lost so long just like lawn mower engines give them occasional service they will last quite a while. Like an rc car or sled or dirtbike any real performance two stroke will eat rings in a season easy with use.


----------



## Ted Jenkins

Nholme said:


> I agree they low performance thats probably why they lost so long just like lawn mower engines give them occasional service they will last quite a while. Like an rc car or sled or dirtbike any real performance two stroke will eat rings in a season easy with use.


I completely agree some of my race motors would not last more than twenty hours of use. My dirt bike motors that were liquid cooled had to be torn down completely with new pistons and crank bearings when they hit fifty hours. Rod bearings had to be checked for sure ever hundred hours or just replaced. Small bore like 125 cc motors had to be gone through every thirty hours. 80 CC motors might not last twenty hours. They sure were fun during those hours though. Thanks


----------



## holeycow

30 hours on 125 rings is about 20 hours too long (for optimum performance)...you might be forgetting..?

brand of oil? Who knows, I bought some Lucas to try out. The last brand was showing too much carbon...


----------



## Nholme

Ted Jenkins said:


> I completely agree some of my race motors would not last more than twenty hours of use. My dirt bike motors that were liquid cooled had to be torn down completely with new pistons and crank bearings when they hit fifty hours. Rod bearings had to be checked for sure ever hundred hours or just replaced. Small bore like 125 cc motors had to be gone through every thirty hours. 80 CC motors might not last twenty hours. They sure were fun during those hours though. Than





holeycow said:


> 30 hours on 125 rings is about 20 hours too long (for optimum performance)...you might be forgetting..?
> 
> brand of oil? Who knows, I bought some Lucas to try out. The last brand was showing too much carbon...


The lucas is supposed to have naptha to keep carbon off the piston


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## holeycow

O. Interesting.


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## Fatherwheels

holeycow said:


> 30 hours on 125 rings is about 20 hours too long (for optimum performance)...you might be forgetting..?
> 
> brand of oil? Who knows, I bought some Lucas to try out. The last brand was showing too much carbon...


What brand was showing the carbon.


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## shortfuze82

Saber 80:1 stock saws commercial abuse 
Saber 50-1 semi to modified work saws commercial abuse


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## shortfuze82

Hundreds of hours both ways with no ill effects with guys over revving the piss out of saws cause they have not the slightest clue what true sharp chains are.


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## shortfuze82

But then again we flush the mix bottles out with gas so when I say we mix 80-1 and 50-1 it’s a true measurement no oil is left clinging to insides of bottle at that point


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## holeycow

Whinbush said:


> What brand was showing the carbon.


I forget. Sad, I know.

I just mixed up a couple of 5 gallon cans or so and tossed the container and voila! History. Rejected data. Done. Oops. If it comes back to me I will post it here. I kinda want to know myself. 
could have been yamalube, castrol, or maybe something else. I was using up "old stock"...


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## ladnar

Well I am searching for alternative 2cycle oils, I used Opti2 2 for years in everything (no problems) Husqvarna, Homelite and now Stihl HP, anybody know anything about or used Motul 800 for a chainsaw?


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## oologahan

I'm going with the poll and buy Other oil, where can I get it?


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## Squareground3691

ladnar said:


> Well I am searching for alternative 2cycle oils, I used Opti2 2 for years in everything (no problems) Husqvarna, Homelite and now Stihl HP, anybody know anything about or used Motul 800 for a chainsaw? Yea be using it for years great oil !! 40:1 with non ethanol gas ️


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## Squareground3691

Motul 800 2T Factory Line 100% Synthetic Off Road 2-Stroke Engine Oil 4L (104039)


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## jellyroll

Cam2 from the local feed store .79 cents for a 3.2 oz bottle.


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## Drifter2406

Husqvarna, used since the first saw I bought and ever since, never had a problem and still running my 365s from 2004 on it.


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## sand sock

I have run stihl 50:1 almost exclusively orange bottle then the silver bottle. I have tried husqvarna 50:1. 
I'm pretty anal over being exact on measuring gas mix. I rinse the bottles and error to the side of just shy on gas. 

My dad mixed up a tank and burned up a saw of mine . i dont rememer the exact mess up. Maybe 1 gal mix to 1.5 to 2 gal. Since then i keep the mix tanks filled and labled. Saws are expensive and proper gas mix is dirt cheap.


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## kjw58

Amsoil Saber synthetic. Been using it for over 10 years in everything 2 stroke, works great


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## CJ1

Amsoil dominator. Cj


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## Dangerous

Synthetic oil , I errored on the side of more 40:1 vs 50:1 ratio


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## r black

sweet lord Jesus ....this thread is on page 9 since 2017 and still going?......ok then ...


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## Dangerous

r black said:


> sweet lord Jesus ....this thread is on page 9 since 2017 and still going?......ok then ...


They don’t delete these things ???
Wait for the leaded vs unleaded thread to resurface. My error I guess


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## r black

Dangerous said:


> They don’t delete these things ???
> Wait for the leaded vs unleaded thread to resurface. My error I guess


its all good ...  ...its been stirred up a few times ...guess there should be some royalties for whomever started this tread ..... well he has not be back since 2018


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## ShermanC

plutus said:


> Almost all threads about 2 stroke oils you use are outdated that's why decide to update. Need this information to understand which oils are most used in 2 stroke handhelds to test on my device, yesterday analyzer ran out of memory had to optimise the code. Last option will be to drop accuracy to 10:1 increments which will give me more room to maneuver i.e. from 30:1 all the way up to 55:1 but with 10:1 increments up to 50:1 then 5:1 increment to 55:1. And transitions i.e. below 30:1, 30-40:1, 40-50:1,50-55:1 and above 55:1. Thanks for your participation in the poll.


I use STIHL Ultra Premium


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## ladnar

I have read this thread and asked some questions, I have a new question, anyone know anything about Echo 2 stroke oil? Red Armor or Power Blend Gold? Any experience? Good or Bad.
Thank you


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## BarnieTrk

Dangerous said:


> Synthetic oil , I errored on the side of more 40:1 vs 50:1 ratio


I would bet more saws are injured by too lean of a mix than by what brand of mix they use.....


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## Ted Jenkins

BarnieTrk said:


> BarnieTrk said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would bet more saws are injured by too lean of a mix than by what brand of mix they use.....
> 
> 
> 
> I would bet Barnie is correct. About twenty or thirty years ago when i was racing dirt bikes I could get Maxima M pretty much free so I always had a five gallon bucket of it. When that ran out I got Lucas Oil free and then that ran out and finally I got Yamalube free. Well I used the last of that two or three years ago and bought Walmart Supertech. I can not tell the difference at all. Since I have not had any engine failures in fifteen hundred cords of wood I think that my oil combination is usable. As long as the stuff is slippery it should work fine. Thanks
Click to expand...


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## jellyroll

ladnar said:


> I have read this thread and asked some questions, I have a new question, anyone know anything about Echo 2 stroke oil? Red Armor or Power Blend Gold? Any experience? Good or Bad.
> Thank you


Both are fine oils run them with no worry.


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## Joisey

Dangerous said:


> They don’t delete these things ???
> Wait for the leaded vs unleaded thread to resurface. My error I guess


They make leaded and unleaded 2 stroke oil?


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## ATH

oologahan said:


> I'm going with the poll and buy Other oil, where can I get it?


every other store


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## ladnar

Joisey said:


> They make leaded and unleaded 2 stroke oil?


I hope not, I only use unleaded non-ethanol premium anyway.


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## Joisey

ladnar said:


> I hope not, I only use unleaded non-ethanol premium anyway.


That was my attempt at humor.


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## ladnar

Joisey said:


> That was my attempt at humor.


Thank you! I love it!


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## jellyroll

Using some cheap outboard oil mixed at 24:1 in a chinese saw at the moment i guess i will see how long it goes with it.


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## Charlie Coyote

Icedogs28 said:


> Tru fuel 40:1
> Local shop has 5 gallon drum for $90


Let me do some math. If I pay $36 dollars for 5 gallons of whitest straight gas and add 16 ounces of VP Racing 2 cycle full synthetic that cost $12 don't I have true fuel 40:1 for half what you pay?


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## Squareground3691

Good stuff


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## Charlie Coyote

ChipChomper said:


> AMS oil Sabre at 50:1, Dolmar 50:1, or anything synthetic with a reputable brand. Maybe I'm throwing money away... Idk.
> 
> Sent from my XT1526 using Tapatalk


I don't think you're throwing your money away. Pull the muffler and shine a light in the exhaust port as you slowly pull the starting cord. Now look closely at your spark arrestor. Polished piston and no carbon I presume. Keep doing just so.


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## jellyroll

Echo power blend gold at 50:1 with 87 E10.


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## shortfuze82

Amsoil was the first synthetic way back in 72’ way before this Stihl ultra and red armor crap hit the market as well as way before Mobil 1 . When you tear down as many saws as we do a year in our shop you see the differences in oil used in commercial equipment that gets beat on for a living vs the hobbiest home firewood warrior 
Mixed 50-1 of coarse


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## shortfuze82

We specify dominator at 50-1 for those running performance built saws holding higher rpm in the cut. 

So key due to its anti scuff aditives which preserve the skirts from undue wear


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## Charlie Coyote

jellyroll said:


> Using some cheap outboard oil mixed at 24:1 in a chinese saw at the moment i guess i will see how long it goes with it.


Let us all know how long it goes. I've probably learned more from mistakes, mine and others. By the way, what maximum rpms do outboard marine engines run at?


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## jellyroll

Charlie Coyote said:


> Let us all know how long it goes. I've probably learned more from mistakes, mine and others. By the way, what maximum rpms do outboard marine engines run at?


You tell me because i sold the saw and run echo powerblend oil now.


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## bugkill

Been using the stihl oil. Been happy with it. Have Husky 61 and Stihl MS170. I bought the little 6 pack one and then I refill them out of a big jug because they are so handy.


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## John Walsh

Nholme said:


> Husqvarna did research on this in the 70's using a dyno synthetic oil 50:1 vs 24:1 the piston and connecting rod bearings exhibited less wear than 50:1 but they crank bearings wore just the same. Gordon Jennings sae experiment with benol and a suzuki pe 250 validated what husky reported more oil = less wear and more oil made more power due to better ring seal 50:1 was down 7% power compared to 32:1, 32:1 was down 3% power to 18:1


I'm old enough to remember having read Gordon Jennings's article IIRC the only downside to lots of oil was plug fouling. As you noted, power went up and wear down, as the increased oil ratios were tested.


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## Renegade32

*opti-2 bought by the gallon when on sale. *


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## jellyroll

John Walsh said:


> I'm old enough to remember having read Gordon Jennings's article IIRC the only downside to lots of oil was plug fouling. As you noted, power went up and wear down, as the increased oil ratios were tested.


Never fouled a plug but oil and gasoline is cleaner burning these days.


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## ValleyForge

jellyroll said:


> Never fouled a plug but oil and gasoline is cleaner burning these days.


How so?


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## timsmcm

Honda hp2 at 40:1 with 91 octane with no alcohol, pump and nozzle dedicated to that one tank. I use to buy at another fuel depot and was still getting a lot of alcohol per 5 us gallons. I don't know if their fuel was not correct or the non dedicated pump


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## grizz55chev

Fuggin oil threads suck!


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