# Footlocking ???



## rahtreelimbs (Oct 1, 2002)

Does anyone here other than me footlock on the tail of your rope?













Rich.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Oct 1, 2002)

I will on very short pitches. otherwise it is way too slow for me.


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## rahtreelimbs (Oct 1, 2002)

While this method of footlocking is slow, I like the fact that I don't have to tie and untie a prussic and then tie a swaybish. Also, for those of you that footlock on a double line, what do you do if you encounter hornets or bees nests? Seems descending would be hard if not impossible.

















Rich.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Oct 1, 2002)

I'll tell you when It happens I've not got stung yet.


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## Nickrosis (Oct 2, 2002)

I second JPS on this. If that happened - through a Fig. 8 on and drop!

Depending on the footwear, I do have a hard time footlocking. If my boots are slippery (one pair is), I take a bight with the lower foot, bring it over the top boot, crush, put my toes on the outside of the first bight, and stand up! Did that make sense? 

I essentially double footlock. It gives me all the time in the world to advance my knot, especially if became bound from sitting in my saddle.

When footlocking barefoot, I find the normal method to be perfect but stressful on the skin. My other pair of boots is easier to footlock with because it still has tread.

Nickrosis


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## tshanefreeman (Oct 2, 2002)

I have found that the key to footlocking is consistency and persistence...................which can only be achieved through practice. Now this doesn't mean once a month...........this means the more the better. 

I have also found that footwear makes a huge difference. Coarse-treaded x-trainers seem to work the best for me. The sole is flexible allowing the rope to bite and the grip from the tread compliments the process. I have also used steel-toed work boots, but the steel plates in the sole hinder the grip of the rope.

The rope can also make or break you. I find that the older, rougher the rope, the easier to bite with the footlock. 

Once you have mastered biting the rope with your feet you will be able to concentrate on ascending quickly. I personally have found that you can almost jump out a solid footlock, thus, lessening the stresses on your upper body. But if your footlock is weak, you'll just slip, making you struggle and become tired quickly.


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## Kevin (Oct 2, 2002)

A good pair of boots is essential.
The Kong ascender helped me learn to footlock and it really is a technique.
It appears to be much faster on a doubled rope as opposed to a single rope.
A rope like kernmantle with little stretch helps also, keeping in mind that it`s a static rope.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Oct 2, 2002)

Practice practice practice.

I can remember thinking people who did it were masochists, then I seen that enough people were doing it that there must be something too it. 

I still do not like using a hitch, i want to sit down on the ascenders, the knot will always lock up on me.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Oct 2, 2002)

I will only ascend secured. It is that I will occasionaly not have the backup ascender on that is used as self-belay.

I'm 300# withm my gear on, my hands cannot hold all that weight.

Hiches regularly lock on me, that is why I will only use a "mechanical" ascender.


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## Greg (Oct 2, 2002)

An ideal footlock requires that you are always holding youself up by your arms or legs, not the hitch. If you are sitting on the hitch after each advance you will be locking down your hitch and then expending too much energy just advancing the hitch, you will get tired real fast. The ascenders help a lot with that problem. I know that you are not supposed to, but I always end up with one hand above my hitch, and one below to push it up. Footlocking takes a lot of practice, strength, and technique. Technique is all important, you have to keep your entire body as much in line with the rope as possible. Don't kick your feet out horizontally, try to almost sit indian style and stand by pushing down instead of out. a little over a year ago I decided that I would learn to footlock if it killed me. I practiced every night for a couple of weeks until I got to a point where I felt I was good enough. Want a great work out, footlock for 20 minutes every day. I can kick butt on a 10'-15' climb, but a 25+ climb will kick my butt. Then again I could stand to loose about 10-15lbs. 

When you watch someone (not me) who is really good fly up a rope footlocking you can't help but be impressed.
Greg


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## Tom Dunlap (Oct 2, 2002)

Kevin wrote: It appears to be much faster on a doubled rope as opposed to a single rope

If the rope is not moving, in this sense, static, whether it's a single rope or doubled, footlocking will be the same speed. You're right, FL is all about technique.

Getting the loop of the ascending cord tweaked to the right length is par of that technique. For working, it seems that the loop should be adjusted so that the bottom of your bottom hand is between eyebrow and top of your head when you grasp the rope with both hands. The same length goes for the ascender lanyard too. Competition length is much different.

Unless you're strong enough to do a series of pull ups there's nothing wrong with taking a momentary rest on the ascenders while the next foot bight is made. Hanging on the rope is exhausting and hard on your shoulders. Learing to FL is much easier on your body than body thrusting. It's another example of bending paper clips. Shoulders will get worn out if you spend a life time body thrusting.

Tom

Tom


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## Kevin (Oct 2, 2002)

Tom,
I was comparing a double static line to a dynamic line which is moving over a limb.


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## Tom Dunlap (Oct 2, 2002)

When a single rope is draped over a limb and both legs of the rope are used we call that a Doubled Rope Technique or DdRT. True double rope technique is the way some rock climbers work, using two seperate ropes. 

If the climber is footlocking the tail or body thrusting, generally that's called a traditional system.

Alex Shigo has admonished us for years to use correct terminology when we discuss trees. Trying to get a common language for climbers is a bit more difficult. Arbos have made up a lot of words for techniques that already have perfectly adequate and descriptive terms in other rope disciplines. God Bless Jason Blake but I think that our language might be better off if he would have chosen a different name for the hitch that he found 

Tom


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## Gopher (Oct 2, 2002)

Thank you for all of the points on FL. I admit, since I had elbow and shoulder surgery two years ago, I got quite rusty at footlocking technique. I am one to tell you, though, it is much easier on the shoulders than body thrusting.

For me, I have to have my left foot on top (and I liken it to slalom waterskiing, where I also have my left foot forward.) Perhaps if anyone has been having trouble; have you tried reversing your feet? Just a thought.

Gopher


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## NeTree (Oct 3, 2002)

Yep, I footlock alot, and it IS hard when you're 30 lbs overweight like me, but it's a hell of a workout! 

Try several different wrap techniques, and when you find one that works well with your footwear, practice and practice some more.

 Erik

New England Tree Service


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## FBerkel (Oct 3, 2002)

Wrapping the rope around your foot may make you feel more secure, but interferes with the rhythm of footlocking. A good, easy-on-the-shoulders footlock is done smoothly and rhythmically, like rowing. It's fast and easy when mastered, a very efficient way to enter a tree (when tree is fairly open and rope is easy to get parallel, that is). 

And much safer than it was when I learned. Hate to sound like some crotchety old timer, but....back in the day, we would go up unprotected, with no friction saver to hold the ropes together at the top. On large limbs this was very hazardous. Still is today, even with a prussik, which can loosen (and therefore slide all the way down) when pushed too far up near the limb holding the doubled rope. So be careful! Set a friction saver from the ground, or use two ascenders.


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## Kevin (Oct 3, 2002)

The only time I find footlocking difficult is next to the spar.
A crotch in the main spar doesn`t make for a good tie in point unless the tree has a good lean on it.
That`s where I find the pantin handy.


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## Bradley (Oct 3, 2002)

JPS, how do you configure your ascenders and what brand do you use? Do you leave them split apart or fasten them together? I use Petzl's to FL and have them taped together. I haven't tried it with them split but I think it would be easier to have an ascender for each hand instead of one on the ascenders and one on the rope.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Oct 3, 2002)

I have paired petzl's, think CMI are a little safer in their locking mechanism.

I have a delta link holding them together with a sewn web daisychain gith-hithced to the delta. Then a krab to the center D on my saddle.

This way I can take one off for SRT, or loan them to a normal sized climing companion.


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## Todd K. (Nov 2, 2002)

One month later and your footlocking effciantly. Imagine one year from now. I have been footlocking for more than 10 years and still do it just about every day. I can not footlock 40' in 12 seconds but I can footlock all day. I do not recomend practicing for speed just effciancy.Once I had the technique mastered I was able to rest on rope with out wieghting the prussic. I find it very difficult to convice people to try to learn how to footlock. I'm glad you were able to do it. Keep practicing.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Nov 2, 2002)

Another thing to do as you learn is to change your foot positions so that you become ambipedexstrous  

The bottom leg seems to do most of the work.


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## treeguy347 (Nov 2, 2002)

I haven't footlocked since getting a pair of CMI Ultrascenders. They're a very efficient way of getting up a rope. I use this statement with caution, but they are pretty idiot-proof. It takes a definite (but not inconvienient) effort to remove them from the rope. I pair them with a 10.5mm static rope. Check out the book "On Rope" - it has a lot of useful methods for using ropes to get around.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Nov 3, 2002)

Are you ascending on single rope (SRT or doubled rope (DdRT), or traditional loop climbing?


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## lync (Nov 3, 2002)

Since srt has been mentioned , I have a question. 
I use two ascenders on a single line , 1- right hand petzl, attached to center "d" on my saddle. 1 - left handed petzl, also attached to center"d" ,left handed one has a loop of webbing
that hangs down about 30 inches so my feet can fit side by side in webbing. Stand up advance right hand, sit down advance left hand. and so on. Since both ascenders are tied into saddle, is there a need for a non mechanical backup? (prussic cord clipped above top ascender).


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## treeguy347 (Nov 3, 2002)

I climb SRT. Lync, Sounds like the exact same system I use. I use my right hand to advance my feet though, but that's just personal preferenceAs long as you aren't trusting your life to just one mechanical ascender, you should be safe. The book The Tree Climber's Companion , by Jeff Jepson illustrates this method that you have described in pgs 44-46. It says "The system, with all of it's components should ... provide two attachment points for means of ascension, as well as fall protection ... The "sit-stand" method satisfys these requirements." I have seen people use prusiks as a backup by attaching one just above their ascender so that the hitch gets pushed up as you climb. I don't feel the need for a non-mechanical backup, I think an extra prusik in the system would get in the way. 


__________________________________
Nine years without going splat!


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## Tree Machine (Nov 4, 2002)

*Footlocking*

Footwear has a good deal to do with it. I wear mountain boots exclusively and one of my favorites thus far, two pair ago, were the Salomon GTX6, common and current model in the sporting goods stores. These had almost a 'rope cleat' configuration in the inside arch area and climbed like no others I'd owned. If that site were actually built to better grip a rope, much like a rope cleat would, I think it could help, maybe, to simplify learning and using the footlock technique.

6 or 7 years ago I took two single CMI ascenders, carefully pulled the pins, inserted a common pin, and riveted the bodies together. Used this for a couple years on doubled rope. Finally Kong came out with a dual handled ascender, their double ascender, which has served me faithfully and flawlessly for several years now. I have this rigged with dual slings for my own peace of mind. Throw a prussik on up ahead of the ascenders. I use right hand on the right-side ascender handle, left hand on the rope(s) just under the ascenders, both hands moving together on the up-push. I used to leave left hand in one place while right hand moved the ascender up, but I eek out just a little more efficiency with both hands moving up in unison.


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## TheTreeSpyder (Nov 4, 2002)

FLing was beating me a few years ago, i felt like my legs where too short (quiet JP!), after all they barely reach the ground whenst i'm standing.... So i decided to really work on it, and was developing a strategy of bringing them way up till the souls of my feats had to touch as my hips rotated out for more travel per stroke. 

Well, long story to short (yes, i can actually do that!) that is the wrong angle of pull on the hip, and i kinda popped it outta joint. Believe me, you don't want to end up at emergency with that pain! It didn't come on till the next day, and actually i thought that i was getting the hang of FLing, and when i awoke in pain tried my trusty chiro, hours later went to a walkin clinic that gave me pain killers; about 4pm decided i shouldn't be playing hero, as i felt like i was blown apart on a mine field! The Demeral drip as i awoke was nice, but as i had gone into shock and passed out from the pain; i missed most of it! So i would kinda ad-vise one to keep their knees two-gather pretty much and not try any ariel yoga positions, at least i think it couda saved my FLing career!

When i 'body thrusting' i try to get a smooth rocking motion, whereby; my legs falling down power my chest and sholders up on the pivot of my waist, then i grab the line and hold it to my lil'chest and rock back letting that massive weightpull on the rope. i kinda got that idea from "On Rope" and there descriptions on how the hardest thing to efficient accsenion was keeping your chest/shoulder weight inline with the rope, so you weren't constantly fighting it falling out of line (they suggest a chest roller device), so all of your effort was focused moving up the rope. So i took this heavier/leveraged point and turned it into the power of lift! Between that, the 2/1 of the line and letting my lil'feats land on anything to take weight off the line; i do ok for an olde midget on short runs!

OK, i lied about the length, but balance in all things.......


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## Tree Machine (Nov 4, 2002)

*Non-footlock footlocking*

Does anyone use the MarBar System?? I watched this in use at the TCI Expo a few years back. What it is, is two doubled ascenders (four ascenders in all). Each of the coupled rigs has a 'handlebar' permanently attached to it. With one, you hold the bars with your hands. With the other, you stand on the bar with your feet. The two are linked together with, I dunno, 5 feet, six feet? of webbing and your saddle is slinged into the top ascender pair.

The crowd at TCI watched the demonstrator move up the rope faster than I think any of us had ever seen ANYONE go up a rope, and with apparant ease. We all sort of held our hearts and went," Holy sh*# !". We asked him to do it again as many of us were still in disbeleif that ascending a rope could look so easy.

Sherrill sells this system. The only downdraw I could see (other than they're a little pricey) was that it took a groundie holding the bottom of the rope to keep it taut, which could be done also by attaching your chainsaw to the rope and letting it hang a foot or two above the ground to tension your climb line. Get up in your tree and then pull your saw up.


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## Tom Dunlap (Nov 4, 2002)

Greg Liu, kliminfool over at t***buzz, makes the Easy Bar. It's a single aluminum rod and straps. Nice and compact. I use a single CMI Easy Bar for a foot ascender instead of the Pantin now. 

You don't need a groundie to tail the rope. There are several alternatives:

*Tie a gob of rope into a knot to act as a weight
*Tie your chainsaw, you can then haul it up later without having groundie
*Use lighter rope-static line will start to tail sooner than arbo rope-smaller diameter and lighter
*Take a loop of rope out of the bottom of the ascender and loop it up through your chain saw loop. As you ascend you reach down at your side to tail the rope and don't have to bend and grab the rope under your feet.

Like Spidey said, keep your knees together!

Be sure to VOTE!!! If you don't, you can't talk about politics for the next two years. You'll have to be content with what you got by not voting.

Tom


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## Tree Machine (Oct 10, 2004)

*TWO key footlocking points*

Successful footlocking, IMO, is about not going up with a hitch, but rather an ascender. If you really want friction free, consistent, predictable performance, an ascender simply outperforms a hitch. Anyone is free to argue me, but I've done it both ways, and still occasionally do an ascent on a hitch (usually as a demo), but there's just no contesting the large difference in efficiency between the two.

The second major point I see, after ascenders, is footwear. I have instructed many a man in how to footlock, but if he (or she) is wearing shoes or boots not conducive to footlocking, then footlocking does not happen, is not appealing and the climber, in a worst case scenario, will assume that what they experienced, is what footlocking will be for them, and go back to body thrusting up a rope. What a shame. Being held back from your full potential, just because of your boots.

ps, backing up your ascender is quick and easy and should always be done.


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## SteveBullman (Oct 11, 2004)

i rarely have the need to footlock, but when i do i have a pair of kong ascenders for the job.
only advantage i can see in using a friction hitch is to make it easier to descend in a hurry if needs be


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## NickfromWI (Oct 11, 2004)

You can't descend on a standard footlock prusik in the same way you can with a Blakes Hitch, VT, Distel, or other climbing friction hitch. When footlocking straight up, you don't have that 2:1 pulley action that lessens the load on the friction hitch. When footlocking, ALL your weight is in the prusik.

That being said, I still prefer the footlock prusik to the ascenders. I've tried Petzl, Kong Double Ascender, and the Rock Exotica double ascender from Sherrill. I twist as I footlock up. My body slowly spins around. When too many twists develop in the rope, I have to stop and spin around the other way to take the twists out so that the ascenders can go ahead. A friction hitch goes right over the twists. And yes, it still locks up even if it's on a twists. I checked.

love
nick


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## huskycandoit (Oct 11, 2004)

*footlockin*

R u a dumbass who footlocks from the end of the rope 
I need a professional to teach u boy!


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## NeTree (Oct 11, 2004)

Easier than footlocking from the top, isn't it?


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## ORclimber (Oct 11, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Tom Dunlap _
> **Tie your chainsaw, you can then haul it up later without having groundie
> *



Thanks. Tried that today and it makes it much easier. Hung the saw a foot and a half off the ground, just enough that my wieght didn't put it on the ground. Much better than trying to set something on the rope.


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## rahtreelimbs (Oct 11, 2004)

*Re: footlockin*



> _Originally posted by huskycandoit _
> *R u a dumbass who footlocks from the end of the rope
> I need a professional to teach u boy!
> *




And who might this be addressed to???


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## NeTree (Oct 11, 2004)

Who cares? I just tossed him on the IGNORE list.


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## NeTree (Oct 11, 2004)

> _Originally posted by netree _
> *
> 
> Yep, I footlock alot, and it IS hard when you're 30 lbs overweight like me, but it's a hell of a workout!
> ...




Very funny. Nice to see SOMEBODY has a sense of humor.


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## NeTree (Oct 11, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Mike Maas _
> *Take him off ignore, that's our buddy, Trees Company! *



Can't be... he's too busy keeping his dad orally satisfied.


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## MasterBlaster (Oct 11, 2004)

Geez, dudes!


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## BigJohn (Oct 12, 2004)

You guys say I'm bad. Yo Nick I had the same problem to with my Kongs when I first got them. I too was haveing the rope twist problem It is something you can correct. Not so sure on how I did but I haven't that problem in over a year. 

The prussic doesn't have to less smooth than the ascender just don't tighten it down at all or stop and sit on it. Who wants to do that. I too would rather the ascender.


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## jkrueger (Oct 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by BigJohn _
> *You guys say I'm bad. Yo Nick I had the same problem to with my Kongs when I first got them. I too was haveing the rope twist problem It is something you can correct. Not so sure on how I did but I haven't that problem in over a year.
> 
> The prussic doesn't have to less smooth than the ascender just don't tighten it down at all or stop and sit on it. Who wants to do that. I too would rather the ascender. *



Bad? Where is this self doubt coming from. Dah, I told you Mickey Ds does funny things after awhile.

Oh, ya, now you tell me about the prussic stuff. There I was 40 or so feet up and stoped for a moment and put weight on the prussic. Geez, it was as teight as super glue. Boy did I use your name in vain. Fotunatley even with life theatening body cramps I was alble to take care of it.

Jack


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## Tree Machine (Oct 14, 2004)

Locking up your hitch, just because you want to sitback and rest? Kinda puts a damper on efficiency.

I've been footlocking so long that it's more or less automatic. In trying to help those guys still learning, I had to deliberately focus on my technique to see what I was doing at every part of the footlock sequence to see if there was some nugget of insight that I could share.

In paying attention to what I'm doing, I sit back and weight the ascenders between every stride. Why? Because it's the natural way to do it. I'm not sharing anything new here for guys who are using ascenders.

While ascending, you are in direct opposition to the ways of gravity; there's no way around that. But to have to fight your prussik, or hitch, or have to hold yourself up on the rope with arm strength so you don't weight your hitch, or stand in a footlock while unbinding your hitch..... those who are doing this are climbing with a serious handicap.

With backed-up ascenders, you can footlock up a rope with one arm behind your back, and this is no exaggeration. With good footlock technique, you don't do much pulling up. Good footlocking guys let their legs do that work. Your hand(s) simply push the ascender(s) up, in concert with the stride of your lower pistons. 

Ascenders allow you to save your arms for critical crux moves while in the canopy. You need your strength when you need the strength. It shouldn't be wasted on the way up.


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## glens (Oct 14, 2004)

But sitting on the hitch/ascender every stride deprives me of some serious headway.&nbsp; Sitting each time I get only about a foot advancement per stroke.&nbsp; Pulling myself up to grab the next foot-full of rope I can get two-feet-plus at a whack.&nbsp; That's worth something even if it's a little expensive.

Glen


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## Tree Machine (Oct 14, 2004)

True, true. If we'd like to race up the rope, I would modify my method a bit. But I'm talking about your regular way of doing it, swiftness, but not necessarily speed, efficiency over power. Style over sweat.

I keep keenly aware of things once I leave the ground. I might stop a meter up, sit triple check my safety and make sure I've got all my stuff, stop half way up the trunk to cut off a dead stub, up another meter and do a minor cavity surgery, stop, change the station on my radio ear protection, etc. 

Being able to sit back and weight whatever rope grab device or hitch you use, I feel, is essential in learning the art of tree climbing. A prussik will not allow you this liberty. Weighting the ascender is also why my saddle has a bosun board. I hang on, and work off rope, quite a lot.

Gentlemen,.... what is this 'twisting' thing you speak of? I have never twisted or spiralled, unless deliberate, EVER, doubled rope or single rope..... 

are you climbing on 3-strand or something?


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## NeTree (Oct 14, 2004)

glen, try ascending SRT for the long hauls. It's a big effort-saver in the end.


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## glens (Oct 14, 2004)

That's how I've been doing it, except I use both strands of the doubled rope to avoid excessive hitch-bind.&nbsp; I forget the proper acronym for that style of rope use; what is it?

Glen


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## NickfromWI (Oct 14, 2004)

Ddrt?


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## Tree Machine (Oct 14, 2004)

Yes, *DdRT* is doubled rope where both ends of the rope stay in the ground and there is no opposing travel of the rope, once over the limb. You go up this way with dual-handled ascenders. A friction hitch can get you up there, but takes some refinement of technique and is less efficient. 1:1 system.

*DbRT*is traditional doubled rope where one end of the rope is attached to your saddle, the other leg gets the ascender or hitch, rope is advanced downward, you go upward with the rope traveling over the limb as you advance, as if it were a pully (use your friction saver). 2:1 system

Glen is going up DdRT, which is the same 1:1 as SRT, only you have twice as much rope to grab (2 parallel lines)


> try ascending SRT for the long hauls. It's a big effort-saver in the end.


 Not true. It is actually easier to footlock up a doubled rope than a single rope, especially with the smaller 11mm ropes, or when the rope is new and more slick.

It is essential to know the difference. Right here lies one of the main topics that differentiates old school from new school.
(Not being meant to say one's better than the other).


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## roachy (Oct 14, 2004)

Tree Machine,I dont know where you work or what type of trees but to say that it is easier to doubleline a long distance than single line thats just nuts and makes me question you a bit.double line gets pretty heavy at 70plus and you would not be human to claim that its not tireing.I do this almost every day and single line as much as possible.


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## Tree Machine (Oct 14, 2004)

Yes, but you're ascending the rope, not lifting it. 

Heaviness of rope really doesn't affect my ascent? How does heaviness have anything to do with anything as far as footlocking up a rope. Some guys have posted success by adding _more_ weight to the rope, ie. tying on a saw.

Extra weight (below you, anyway) is a benefit in doing a footlock, I mean, not too much weight, but like the weight of 70' of rope below you, good thing, weight of a climbing saw on the line 30' below you, also a good thing. It allows you to get a more solid grab with your climbing boots.

Question me a bit more. This is important stuff.




ps, the MarBar guy in this image should allow you to see the benefit of weight on the line below you. Think about what happens at his lower ascender if the rope is not weighted. For footlocking the reasons are quite similar.


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## roachy (Oct 14, 2004)

If you need wieght on the rope your doing something wrong!in the case of the mar-bars yoy need wieght so the lower cam will slide up, in footlocking you are useing your FEET right?Lifting your legs into the next lock right ,so you want more wieght the whole way up ! more power to you


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## Tree Machine (Oct 14, 2004)

I didn't say I need weight, or want it necessarily, just that it hardly makes a bit of difference to me either way.

If I were teaching a guy, I would have him try the rope weighted, and unweighted. He will often find a little weight advantageous.

I can also find footlock advantage by incorporating the tree's trunk into my 'lock' (in certain instances, not regularly). I'd almost have to show you a picture for that to make sense. Does that make sense to anyone else? I doubt I'm employing techniques never before used by arborists. That would be silly.

When I'm two meters off the ground, the two ends hanging naturally to the ground, the rope is light and floppy. At 20 meters up the rope hangs with authority. You grip the sucker with your feet, lock with authority, advance, repeat. I prefer SRT, but I have to adjust, and be more deliberate as the single line has a more delicate feel, #1 being a single, not doubled line, and #2 less weight (that is, light and floppy).


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## BigJohn (Oct 14, 2004)

It makes some sense to me. But with practice it doesn't matter. This is the Style you talked about. You can pull up and take long bites and still look graceful and still be quite fast and smoothe. I personally like the rope doubles only cause ther is less bounce. But will say that Roachy is right it gets heavy. Maybe he wont think the blaze is as bad. I really liked it for footlocking. I'm saying your wrong for putting weight on there but me personallly I rather not. Its what ever works for you. 

I personally don't get on the rope that much but when I do I can still move.


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## Tree Machine (Oct 14, 2004)

> When you footlock you do lift the rope. You lift the rope with one foot and place the rope on top of the other foot and lock it in place.



I do this early on, down low. As you go up the rope, the weight of the rope creates more downward force over the top of your foot. This creates a slight friction advantage that can be counted on and used, even moreso on wet rope.

Once up higher you can truncate the deliberateness of the method written up top, and not actually 'lift' the rope, but 'scissor' it. Hmmm, how do I make this clear? You do the regular over/under crossover with your feet, and rather than lifting rope with your feet, creating a defined S in the rope as it laces over top of your boot, is more of a shallow S, actually closer to a quick bend in a vertical line. A stay with the lower boot and an accurate stepping motion with the upper, and advance up. The added pressure across the top of your bootlaces makes this condensed version of a full footlock more effective. It is quick and efficient, though it might have a lot to do with your boots, whether or not you can groove with this.


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## roachy (Oct 15, 2004)

finally that I agree on


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## BigJohn (Oct 15, 2004)

I'd break you of that real quick HEHEHEHE


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## BigJohn (Oct 15, 2004)

Yeah but like that? Footlocking a prussic is hard enough. I've footlocked coworkers tails while they were on ascenders. I throw walnuts at them from out of the tree. Sweep saw dust off the top log as they are standing below. Tie there shoe laces to the mirror on the truck when they fall asleep and then hit the air horn. Fart in their face when they fall asleep in the truck and don't want to wake up. Just fart in general when we sit in the truck, Ummm what else Pat help a brother out here.


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## MasterBlaster (Oct 15, 2004)

I like to sneak up upon a descending climber when he's maybe 6 or 7 feet from the ground, and get right under em. As soon as I can latch on to their side dees, I go into a super-twirl, using their bodyweight and my spinning to put them into a spinning horror.

I made one guy puke. He wuz kinda pissed.


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## BigJohn (Oct 15, 2004)

Cool I'll have to try that look out Pat. I like the guy who like to latch onto the bucket and hang on the side as you start going back up after getting a saw fueled or something. I like grab their wrist and not let go and just keep going up. They let go and your the only thing holding them. Haven't dropped one yet.


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## BigJohn (Oct 15, 2004)

One time I was above a climber hanging on his rope and it was big poplar and he was deathly affraid of poplars. I took his line in my hand and put my hand saw against it and asked if he was a religious man. Or just swing around and shake the tree the would get pissed and say cut it out I'm scared as it is. Who was that Jim?


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## Tree Machine (Oct 16, 2004)

*a buncha jokas*

I jumped in the passenger side of my groundie's car. In the midst of him backing up I simultaneously yell, "Look OuT!" while whamming the door hard with my right hand.

The combination of him stomping the brake, and the THUD I'd created really _did_ give the effect of an impact.

Now right here it's critical to not start laughing. Ya gotta look REAL concerned and worried. When he opens the door to get out, look him in the eye and go, "I'll pay for the damage", and _don't laugh yet._ 

When he gets around back, befuddled as to that there's absolutely nothing there, THEN you crack up to your heart's content.  This could be one of the cruelest dupes of all time.


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## NeTree (Oct 16, 2004)

now if you REALLY wanna have some fun...

...add a pair of boots and pants filled with foam to that equation.




Trust me. The result is F-U-N-N-Y!


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