# New Chain Sharpener



## Old51AVE

Did a search but couldn't find any reviews,has anyone seen or tried this sharpener? 
Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener |Sharpen Your Chainsaw Looks like a nice unit, but pricey! It would be ok if it was fast and accurate, but the price of the burrs and the tool itself seems a bit high!


Old51AVE :greenchainsaw:


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## Pagie

Looks like you can only sharpen at one angle. Not good for ripping chain.


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## JRepairsK70e

looks like a well made tool ,but seems as though the angles arent adjustable ,the timberline site isnt very user friendly ,instructions sheet viewed upside down,faq page is a joke ,no clues to how long a carbide will last ,are there diff carbide sizes ? no place to contact the company directly through the site . gonna have to wait and see if others like it first jmho jk


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## holshot14

Looks nice! Someone has to bite the bullet and try one out. I did find they have additional dies for 25 and 35 degree angles, as well as, dittferent tips for chain pitch. That might widen the range of use a little bit.


Shop &mdash; Catalog Products &mdash; Accessory Angle Guides | Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener


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## BlacknTan

That actually looks like a well thought out and executed tool.

Certainly light years better than the various filing jigs!

A few swipes by hand with a file, and I'm good, but I'm a sucker for high quality tools, and this one looks like one I'd like to try..


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## Somesawguy

It looks neat, but I think the price tag is about double what it should be.


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## BlacknTan

Somesawguy said:


> It looks neat, but I think the price tag is about double what it should be.



To be honest, $100 per hour shop time is quite reasonable today. Add the extrusion that the body is made from, anodized parts and carbide burrs, and costs add up.

$129 doesn't seem unreasonable to me. I recall a square file tool that was much more expensive for less.


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## MS260 Fan

I don't know how many carbide cutters you get for $129 but they are $20 each. To get started you'd need 3 if you sharpen .325, 3/8 and .404. I don't know how long they last. If not long the cost of the body of the unit could end up being the cheap part!

That being said I'd like to give it a try. It looks well built.


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## holshot14

MS260 Fan said:


> I don't know how many carbide cutters you get for $129 but they are $20 each. To get started you'd need 3 if you sharpen .325, 3/8 and .404. I don't know how long they last. If not long the cost of the body of the unit could end up being the cheap part!
> 
> That being said I'd like to give it a try. It looks well built.


 

No .404 available. Only 3/8, .325, and 3/8 lo pro and looks as if u get one size of your choice with purchase.


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## alderman

Looks like the same concept as the old Gamn sharpeners.


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## MS260 Fan

I think I'll just keep using the Efco bench grinder I picked up for $50 when I can and hand file when in the woods...


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## Kenskip1

Sharpening is just one part. How about the rakers? Suppose that you have different angles for different chains?It is a good simple design but has to many shortcomings. JMO Ken


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## Hddnis

The average AS member is clearly far beyond a simple device like this as they are capable of creating a perfectly hand filed chain as if they were brusing their tooth before bed.:msp_wink:



Mr. HE


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## Fish

The carbide holds up well on my Neway valve and seat cutters, and that is up against stellite valves too. Looks like a nice tool, I will see if they are at the EXPO this year, I will save this thread.


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## aiwnios

*Here is an old Mother Earth News article* from 1981 about the similar Gamn' Sharpener....


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## Fish

I don't think that they will be at the EXPO, but I like the look of the construction of it, looks like my Neway stuff, and the carbide holds up extremely well!


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## Old51AVE

Thanks for the feedback, I usu just use a hand file in the field, or bring along the granberg if I am out for a few days.. It looks like a nice product, however kind of expensive if you have a mix of saw chain types and then theres the raker issue! I like top quality tools as well, but by the time you fiddle with all the bits and set up for different chains, you might as well be setting up a grinder, which I don't care for anyways!

Old51AVE :greenchainsaw:


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## Rockstock

Hey guys I have updated some of the info on the website. I appreciate the feedback and will try to answer all your questions. 
Everyone always asks me right from the start how long the carbide cutters last. I've had many customers tell me they are very happy with the cutters after 20+ sharpenings. I've done demonstrations at trade shows using 1 carbide and after well over 100 sharpenings I would still not consider it worn out as it still does a good job. The longevity will depend on how it is used, just like a chain. Use it correctly and it will last a very long time. I've used these on air tools at 4000 rpms and they work great! Very precise at removing small amounts of metal because of the high flute count. 

Yes, the .404" chain can be sharpened and uses the 7/32" carbide cutter. 

The tool comes standard with the angle set at 30˚ and optional guides are available to change the angle to 25˚ or 35˚ I have been really surprised that most people really could care less about changing the angles. :msp_confused:

Had a lot of really good reviews so far. I'm not trying to make this an advertisement on this thread, but I know more about this product than anyone. If your interested pm me and I'll give you a promo code for $30 off the tool.


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## BlacknTan

That's certainly a fair deal for what looks like a very nice piece of equipment!

Thanks!


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## Clarkbug

Rockstock said:


> Hey guys I have updated some of the info on the website. I appreciate the feedback and will try to answer all your questions.
> Everyone always asks me right from the start how long the carbide cutters last. I've had many customers tell me they are very happy with the cutters after 20+ sharpenings. I've done demonstrations at trade shows using 1 carbide and after well over 100 sharpenings I would still not consider it worn out as it still does a good job. The longevity will depend on how it is used, just like a chain. Use it correctly and it will last a very long time. I've used these on air tools at 4000 rpms and they work great! Very precise at removing small amounts of metal because of the high flute count.
> 
> Yes, the .404" chain can be sharpened and uses the 7/32" carbide cutter.
> 
> The tool comes standard with the angle set at 30˚ and optional guides are available to change the angle to 25˚ or 35˚ I have been really surprised that most people really could care less about changing the angles. :msp_confused:
> 
> Had a lot of really good reviews so far. I'm not trying to make this an advertisement on this thread, but I know more about this product than anyone. If your interested pm me and I'll give you a promo code for $30 off the tool.


 
Rockstock,

Any ideas on how to file the rakers? Or is that back to using the Husky or File-O-Plate and a flat file?


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## holshot14

Thanks for the update rockstock. Are you with the company? I am curious when this device was released to the public and how many units have been sold? It would be nice to hear some reviews from end users.


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## Rockstock

Yes and no on the rakers. You can mount the tool at the desired height to take a bit off the rakers, however, it is much faster and simpler to use a flat file. I have something I'm working on to add onto the current design and allow accurate use of a flat file. I was wondering if most users would need a guide that determines the raker height based on the tooth length or simply a guide that keeps all the rakers uniform and letting the user determine how much is taken off? 

New business this is the first year the product has been released, sold a few hundred so far. Many of our customers tell me they heard about it from a friend or someone they know that really liked the tool.


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## Clarkbug

I like the idea of the tool, and would like to see one "in the flesh". Its a great idea for those that dont spend enough time using a saw to warrant a grinder, but also not enough time sharpening to get comfortable with a file. 

I would say you need a progressive raker file, similar to a File-O-Plate, but others here can speak much more intelligently about that than I can.

One other question I had for you dealt with the angle that the carbide sharpens the tooth. Im running some of the WoodlandPro chain, which is Carlton Chisel. They suggest holding the file at a 10 degree angle for a full chisel cutter, and 0 degrees for semi chisel. Any idea how to accomplish this with your jig? I would imagine its a separate set of bushings that would have to be drilled with the angle in them already, alternating depending on the cutter.


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## holshot14

Clarkbug;3157555
One other question I had for you dealt with the angle that the carbide sharpens the tooth. Im running some of the WoodlandPro chain said:


> I had that same question, some of my chains recommend 10 degree file angle and some 0.


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## Rockstock

Right now only the 0˚ angle on the horizon is available. I could make guides with holes at that angle as Clarkbug suggested, however the trade off is that the tool would need to be reset (moved either up or down) when sharpening left vs right side teeth. Not a huge deal, but still adds an additional step. What are your thoughts? How many users do you think would want this option?


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## Fish

In my experience, most do not do that 10 degree tilt {I do} on their grinder or file, but to be honest, most poeple using either are not too sure
what they are trying to accomplish anyway..........


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## Philbert

Rockstock said:


> Hey guys I have updated some of the info on the website. I appreciate the feedback and will try to answer all your questions. . . . . Had a lot of really good reviews so far. I'm not trying to make this an advertisement on this thread, but I know more about this product than anyone. If your interested pm me and I'll give you a promo code for $30 off the tool.



It looks like an interesting product, and like you have put some thought into the design. 

There are a number of ways to sharpen chains - the key is to find something that works for you. Maybe some A.S. members should try it under the money back guarantee, or the manufacturer can provide a demo unit, to get some hands on feedback.

Philbert


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## Clarkbug

Rockstock said:


> Right now only the 0˚ angle on the horizon is available. I could make guides with holes at that angle as Clarkbug suggested, however the trade off is that the tool would need to be reset (moved either up or down) when sharpening left vs right side teeth. Not a huge deal, but still adds an additional step. What are your thoughts? How many users do you think would want this option?


 

I do really think you need to figure out who your target audience is going to be, since as you know you cant make everyone happy all of the time. Im not saying you havent thought about that, but just that lots of the folks here are particular about how their chain is sharpened. I honestly am not very good at it yet, and am still learning about all of the angles, techniques, guides, etc. 

My guess is lots of people here use chisel chain because it cuts faster and hogs out more wood, but again, thats just my guess, and it could be way off base.

As far as adjusting the tool, it looks like there are two bushings that hold the carbide at the 30 degree angle, right? Perhaps those could be drilled off-center and not straight through, so that you could have the 10 degree offset for left and right cutters without adjusting the tool itself. The user would just have to install the bushings in the correct orientation for the left/right hand, and then they would be set. There will probably also be some discussion about cutting one of the teeth from outside in, but again thats getting into the finer points of sharpening (no puns intended)

And I dont mean to be critical at all of this sharpener, so please dont take it the wrong way. I think its great to see someone trying to make a "new" product and get some market share established. Im looking forward to seeing how you can evolve it some. 

Philbert may be onto something. I know over on the firewood forum there was some axe from Sweden (the Vario or something along those lines) that was crazy expensive, but the manufacturer sent one over here as a demo. It just made its rounds through the users here, everyone signed up in the thread, and paid to ship it to the next guy themselves. It got a lot of people to try it out, and got some good feedback posted in the forums. That may not be as good of an idea due to the fact that you would need to send extra carbides of multiple sizes, and they are a wear item. 

The fact that you offer a discount code is a pretty good incentive. But there are going to be those that also want to wait until you make any improvements before spending the money.


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## Fish

He wants to know "What improvements"????

Would it be a good idea for a member to bring it to a GTG?

I do not see many advertised here lately, are they going the way of the "dodo"????

As far as the dodo reference, you all can google and bing........

The Oregon Team wants to film some footage of their stuff, maybe the gtg thing is the thing to do........


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## Fish

Late October is when the Expo is in Louisville, as well as all of their people. Maybe all of the Ohio Valley gang can get together on the same page........


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## Fish

Fish said:


> Late October is when the Expo is in Louisville, as well as all of their people. Maybe all of the Ohio Valley gang can get together on the same page........


 
Or not!!!!


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## MacLaren

Rockstock said:


> Hey guys I have updated some of the info on the website. I appreciate the feedback and will try to answer all your questions.
> Everyone always asks me right from the start how long the carbide cutters last. I've had many customers tell me they are very happy with the cutters after 20+ sharpenings. I've done demonstrations at trade shows using 1 carbide and after well over 100 sharpenings I would still not consider it worn out as it still does a good job. The longevity will depend on how it is used, just like a chain. Use it correctly and it will last a very long time. I've used these on air tools at 4000 rpms and they work great! Very precise at removing small amounts of metal because of the high flute count.
> 
> Yes, the .404" chain can be sharpened and uses the 7/32" carbide cutter.
> 
> The tool comes standard with the angle set at 30˚ and optional guides are available to change the angle to 25˚ or 35˚ I have been really surprised that most people really could care less about changing the angles. :msp_confused:
> 
> Had a lot of really good reviews so far. I'm not trying to make this an advertisement on this thread, but I know more about this product than anyone. If your interested pm me and I'll give you a promo code for $30 off the tool.


 
Fantastic Rockstock. I love innovation in the chainsaw world. I sent ya a pm for the promocode.


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## holshot14

I spoke with Phil (Rockstock) and he has been kind enough to let me demo the device. Once it arrives I will try it out on several types of chain and saws then report back to you guys with a detailed review of the product and maybe suggest some ways to make this better or leave it alone. I am looking forward to testing this unit.


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## Philbert

holshot14 said:


> I spoke with Phil (Rockstock) and he has been kind enough to let me demo the device. Once it arrives I will try it out on several types of chain and saws then report back to you guys with a detailed review of the product and maybe suggest some ways to make this better or leave it alone. I am looking forward to testing this unit.


 
Yeah! Look forward to your review and comments Holshot.

Just to preface them, how do you currently sharpen your chains? Grinder guy? File fellow? Dremel dude? . . .

Philbert


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## MacLaren

Well men, I pulled the trigger on one myself. I am certainly looking forward to using it. I bet it does well. I usually file by hand, so I am curious as to how good it will sharpen the cutters. To me, the good thing is that if not satisfied w/in 30 days I can get a full refund. But, I will know w/in the 1st day whether I want it or not. I also got the $30 bucks off as well. If it does work out, I believe I will order the attachment that will angle @ 25 and 35 degrees. I prolly should have went ahead and ordered it and saved on shipping. Oh well.....


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## holshot14

Philbert said:


> Yeah! Look forward to your review and comments Holshot.
> 
> Just to preface them, how do you currently sharpen your chains? Grinder guy? File fellow? Dremel dude? . . .
> 
> Philbert


 
I currently use the husqvarna combo tool and hand touch ups with files. I am no professional by any means but try my best at it.


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## Philbert

MacLaren said:


> Well men, I pulled the trigger on one myself. . . If it does work out, I believe I will order the attachment that will angle @ 25 and 35 degrees.


 
Thanks for taking the leap! I look forward to your review and comments.

From I have learned over the years, the different angles do make a difference, but not as much a difference as getting each cutter sharp, and the same as the other cutters on the chain. So, if you like this device, you might want to spend your $$ instead on having the different sized cutters for different sized chains.

Philbert


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## MacLaren

Philbert said:


> Thanks for taking the leap! I look forward to your review and comments.
> 
> From I have learned over the years, the different angles do make a difference, but not as much a difference as getting each cutter sharp, and the same as the other cutters on the chain. So, if you like this device, you might want to spend your $$ instead on having the different sized cutters for different sized chains.
> 
> Philbert


 
You know your exactly right. And I should have known that. Come to think of it, I believe Mike and I experimented one time with the chain @35 degrees, and I believe 30 degrees was better. So yes, if it is good then I will get the 3/16 and 5/32. I tell ya, it looks very promising. We shall see........


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## MacLaren

.......Just one more thing men. I really like their statement about it being made in the U.S.A. and free of ANY foreign parts or materials.  I may very well be wrong, but I think this one will be a winner. ....And a huge money maker for Timberline when the word gets out.


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## Clarkbug

MacLaren said:


> .......Just one more thing men. I really like their statement about it being made in the U.S.A. and free of ANY foreign parts or materials. I may very well be wrong, but I think this one will be a winner. ....And a huge money maker for Timberline when the word gets out.


 
MacLaren,

This is the statement from the FAQ page:

_The Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener is designed, packaged, and assembled in the USA of foreign and domestic parts. We work hard to produce a superior product that works well as lasts beyond expectations._

Based on that, I would say that there are some foreign parts and/or materials in this device.... Not that Im knocking it for that, just saying.


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## MacLaren

Clarkbug said:


> MacLaren,
> 
> This is the statement from the FAQ page:
> 
> _The Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener is designed, packaged, and assembled in the USA of foreign and domestic parts. We work hard to produce a superior product that works well as lasts beyond expectations._
> 
> Based on that, I would say that there are some foreign parts and/or materials in this device.... Not that Im knocking it for that, just saying.


 
Well, dont I feel smart! LOL, I misread it. Oh well, atleast it was made in the U.S.A. It is a sharp lookin little fella, now aint it? BTW, good catch Clarkbug.


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## Clarkbug

MacLaren said:


> Well, dont I feel smart! LOL, I misread it. Oh well, atleast it was made in the U.S.A. It is a sharp lookin little fella, now aint it? BTW, good catch Clarkbug.


 
It does look good, I admit. Nice photos on the webpage as well. 

Im a big fan of made in the USA stuff, and it makes me sad that its so hard to find things that are made here. For instance, I tried to buy some gate valves for plumbing today, and no one carries them around me. I ended up with stuff from Italy, which is at least better than China.


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## Fish

Got in late today, so I won't play with it until tomorrow, but it looks very well made.

View attachment 199419


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## MacLaren

Fish said:


> Got in late today, so I won't play with it until tomorrow, but it looks very well made.
> 
> View attachment 199419


 
Good deal. About how long did it take to get it Fish?


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## Fish

Just a few days, can't wait to try it tomorrow


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## OLD MAN GRINDER

Looks like a really great tool, but i am wondering when they say file good
for 25 sharpenings, do they mean 25 chains and if so what size chain???

If they mean only 25 teeth, for 20.00 each file that would be very expensive,
i sent an email to timberline to try and get a more difinitive answer, will let
u know what i find out..

Bob.


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## young

Fish said:


> Got in late today, so I won't play with it until tomorrow, but it looks very well made.



is this a demo unit?


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## Troy G

Looks interesting. I will be very interested in some testimonials from the people who have alreadu picked one up. Looks like a fool proof way to sharpen in the field as well.


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## Fish

young said:


> is this a demo unit?


 
Yes, I unplugged the hour meter............


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## young

Fish said:


> Yes, I unplugged the hour meter............


 
so what you think so far?


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## Fish

OK,Ok.....

Here is a close up of the bottom, and from the side.View attachment 199484
View attachment 199485


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## Fish

Here are the cutters and crank. Hard to see the flat on the cutter where the setscrew locks it.View attachment 199486


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## Fish

Here is a pic of the tool with the 30% guides, with the 25/35% guides beside them. I doubt he will be able to easily be able to make a guide for the drastic ripping top angles, but I am not a machinist. My only criticism is the the 25/35 guides are not idiot proof, and should have
some markings of which angle/position you have, and make sure they are both the same on both sides. 
Most wood cutters may have skipped their geometry classes, so markings/indicators should be added.
View attachment 199487


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## Fish

Don't ask about the pics, I have been trying to figure how to imbed them with little success, once I figure things out, they change it.


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## Philbert

Fish said:


> Here are the cutters and crank. Hard to see the flat on the cutter where the setscrew locks it.


 
So how convenient is it to change the cutters if you are going to sharpen different sizes of chain? Easier than swapping out a wheel on a grinder?

Philbert


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## Fish

Takes just a second to change, you just change the carbide, nothing else.


View attachment 199498
View attachment 199499


I have mounted it on a few saws, but my candidates have been butchered upon by hand filers, so the initial go around took some time, as well
as my being new at it, but the finished chisel looked like a factory edge, a good looking result.

I will keep playing with it, and try more chains and pics, but the results so far are very good, and if it was on a chain that was either newer, or had been sharpened correctly before, it would be done quickly, with great angles/edges. My first impression is good, very good. I will get up some more pics here in a bit.


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## MacLaren

Troy G said:


> Looks interesting. I will be very interested in some testimonials from the people who have alreadu picked one up. Looks like a fool proof way to sharpen in the field as well.


 
Just get on the website. They have testimonials.


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## Philbert

Fish said:


> I have mounted it on a few saws, . . . My first impression is good, very good. I will get up some more pics here in a bit.


 
Fish,

Does it require the chain to be under tension, like when mounted on a saw, or would it still work if I used it on an old bar mounted in a vise, with the chain just hanging.

Philbert


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## Fish

The center knob squeezes the bar rails and holds the chain upright.


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## young

looks great. cant wait to get mine now. 

thanks for the review FISH.


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## Troy G

MacLaren said:


> Just get on the website. They have testimonials.


 
Trust my AS brethern a little more.


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## MacLaren

Troy G said:


> Trust my AS brethern a little more.


 
Why didnt you say so Troy? You saw Fish had his. I had one coming......The way you worded it made it seem like you wanted it from people whom already have it.


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## Troy G

Hey Paul. When I said I was interested in some testimonials I did mean from people who had already ordered them, discussing it in this thread. That would be you, Fish, young, and likely others. Hope that clears things up.


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## MacLaren

Troy G said:


> Hey Paul. When I said I was interested in some testimonials I did mean from people who had already ordered them, discussing it in this thread. That would be you, Fish, young, and likely others. Hope that clears things up.


 
Man, Im sorry troy. I didnt mean to come off short with ya.


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## Troy G

Paul, I was not trying to be short with you nor did I assume you were being short with me, its all good.:hmm3grin2orange: Just interested in what you guys think of this sharpener. Maybe something could be made to do square ground for cheaper than an ATOP.


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## MacLaren

Troy G said:


> Paul, I was not trying to be short with you nor did I assume you were being short with me, its all good.:hmm3grin2orange: Just interested in what you guys think of this sharpener. Maybe something could be made to do square ground for cheaper than an ATOP.


 
Right. I cant help but think that I would be about as perfect example of whether this thing actually is good or not. I say that because I just now am able to round file decently. So, that makes me IMHO part of the crowd -IMHO their target audience. I other words, with my limited experience, if I can get good results with it, well then.......But then again, it would prolly benefit the most expert filers if it works well. I guess we shall see. But, I'm sure whatever Fish says will be the skinny on it. I still say considering a man has 30 day to get a refund, what have ya got to loose?


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## Fish

Well I have been playing with it a while, and the best results I have seen are with the larger chain, I don't have the biggest cutter though.

Newer chain does better, and all of the saws around here have bad bar wear, so that seems to be a factor, as the center "tightener" only
takes a little bit of slop out, a worn bar will allow chain tilt, which is a bit of problem.

My first gripe, might be the back stop, but it gets better with more experience. When pulling the chain through, it is hard to get it to lock behind the chisel, as it wants to lock everywhere else too. Maybe a different angle from its hinge, maybe.View attachment 199508


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## Fish

Of course I have been using this setup for 21 years.


View attachment 199511


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## Fish

And a chain with a lot of damage would need several passes on the right side, the left side can take a bigger bite because of the angle.
View attachment 199512




It would be faster to do all of the chisels first on this side, because if you alternate, you will need to back it off to get it to feed.


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## Fish

When going to this side, I have had this problem, maybe a sharper point on the carbide.......


View attachment 199513


But these are just initial observations, I will keep working with it.


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## MacLaren

young said:


> looks great. cant wait to get mine now.
> 
> thanks for the review FISH.


 
No doubt. Most of my stuff is new, so I expect it will do really well. Yee haa! :kilt:


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## Hddnis

Fish said:


> When going to this side, I have had this problem, maybe a sharper point on the carbide.......
> 
> 
> View attachment 199513
> 
> 
> But these are just initial observations, I will keep working with it.





That pic makes it look like you are trying to take more off that cutter than you need to. Is that the case? Trying to make it match other cutters that were rocked?

Just trying to understand this new little gadget better since I'm going to make a couple part of my fall equipment order. Hoping this will help the rookies make a usable chain.



Mr. HE


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## Fish

Hddnis said:


> That pic makes it look like you are trying to take more off that cutter than you need to. Is that the case? Trying to make it match other cutters that were rocked?
> 
> Just trying to understand this new little gadget better since I'm going to make a couple part of my fall equipment order. Hoping this will help the rookies make a usable chain.
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. HE


 
That was the next cutter after the one in the pic before. The one before had a decent ding in it, so to even all of the cutters, on the second side
you would have to do in several passes.

The first setting would feed through the rest of that side due to the angle allowing it.


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## jhellwig

Fish said:


> My first gripe, might be the back stop, but it gets better with more experience. When pulling the chain through, it is hard to get it to lock behind the chisel, as it wants to lock everywhere else too. Maybe a different angle from its hinge, maybe.View attachment 199508


 
It looks to me like the backstop is on backwards. Maybe it would be better if the backstop was angled away from the cutter to be sharpened. In my mind that would seam like it would make it work better.


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## atvdave

Pulled the trigger, just ordered one, I'll give it a try.


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## Fish

Yes, you can see in the one pic where the cutter has put a groove in the backstop already, that was from my attempts on a real worn chain.


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## Fish

I think the biggest selling point is the cool fanny pack, though.......


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## young

heres the video from the website.

[video=youtube_share;VWe9qJITc8E]http://youtu.be/VWe9qJITc8E[/video]


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## Clarkbug

Thanks for taking the time (and spending the $) to post the pics and the write-ups here Fish. Im sure you just got the Timberline folks a bunch of sales from folks that were on the fence about this.


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## Fish

He sent it to me to test out, so I am only out some time. I really need to sit down and figure out the new way to embed these pics though......


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## Clarkbug

Fish said:


> He sent it to me to test out, so I am only out some time. I really need to sit down and figure out the new way to embed these pics though......


 
Time is worth quite a bit, so its appreciated just the same!


----------



## MacLaren

Just got off the phone with Timberline. Said mine was shipped out today. I told him it looked really good and I thought they may be sitting on a gold mine. He scoffed at that a little-good naturedly- but told me that have have sold a few more and was glad as they could pay off some bills now. He also said it took a lot of work to get it where it is now. I really hope they make it. If it works good for me, I will sure advertise for those ole boys.


----------



## holshot14

*My official review of the timberline chain sharpener*

Ok, Below is my personal official review of the Timberline Chain Sharpener.

My credentials and experience are as follows; I am a professional Firefighter for a DOD facility and volunteer on my days off. I am a amateur/semi-skilled at tree felling and cutting. I also am an amateur *** mechanic. I have firm love/understanding for chainsaws and their components. With that being said take this review for what its worth and again these are my opinions only.

Before I go any further, I want to also mention that Phil (Rockstock) provided me with this unit as a demo. I have no affiliation with Timberline, or Phil.

I will try to keep this short yet informative. All the chains I sharpened were in decent shape, and attached are the chains that were sharpened. 
Pros;
1. Well built and easy to use
2. Quality material
3. Easy to understand directions
4. Can do 20 inch chain in less than 5 min once versed with device
5. Takes the variances of hand filing out of the picture
6. All cutters are precise and same in all ways

Cons;
1. Initial setup/out of box cost a little high 
2. Tips and angle dies not marked with appropriate size/ angles.
3. Carbide tip has area which will never be used
4. Can't adjust for the 10 degree down angle a lot of chains are supposed to be sharpened with. 
5. Need second setup for filing rakers (or not, its all in what you want)

Possible improvements;
1. Etch/mark all "loose" pieces (not to difficult to figure out but would be nice).
2. Create a way to adjust carbide tip so that when one area is dull can be adjusted to use rest of tip. (part closest to the angle chuck)
3. Create a way to adjust from 0-10 (or more) down angle

At the end of the day....
1 being poor, 10 being excellent....

Packaging- 9/10
Quality of Material 9/10
Craftsmanship 9/10
Ease of instructions 9/10
Ease of use 9/10
Price of Package 7/10 ( You get what you pay for though)
Price of accessories 8/10
At the end of the day 9/10

I want to add that while sharpening my chains i could certainly tell how bad of a hand filer I really am. I even was using the Husqvarna combo tool prior to this. Some of the teeth would need no additional grinding, some a little, and some were horrendous. Again I am no professional hand filer to begin with, but I think this tool could be used by a novice to a pro with the same end results. 

Below are some pics I took. Please comment or ask questions that I may have forgot or didn't remember to talk about.



View attachment 199927

View attachment 199928

View attachment 199929

View attachment 199930

View attachment 199931


----------



## holshot14

Remaining pics. Someone could embed these if they like, I cant figure out how to do it.

View attachment 199932

View attachment 199933

View attachment 199934

View attachment 199935



Chain Specifications (from excel file) 

Brand Type Size	Qty Part Number Guage Pitch Drivers File Size File Angle	Down Angle
Husqvarna H36 (91VG) 12 IN 2	501 84 21-45 .050 3/8 45 5/32 30 0
Oregon 21BPX 16 IN	3	21BPX066G .058 .325 66 3/16 30 10
Husqvarna H30 18 IN	3	501 84 06-72 . 050 .325 72 3/16 30 10
Oregon 21BPX 18 IN	2	21BPX72G .058 .325 72 3/16 30 10
Husqvarna H46 20 IN	3	501 84 25-72 .050 3/8 72 7/32 25 10
Husqvarna H47 20 IN	1	501 84 26-72 .050 3/8 72 7/32 25 10
Husqvarna H46 24 IN	3	501 84 25-84 .050 3/8 84 7/32 25 10


----------



## young

holshot14 said:


> Remaining pics. Someone could embed these if they like, I cant figure out how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chain Specifications (from excel file)
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Brand	                      Type	    Size	Qty	     Part Number	      Guage	       Pitch	   Drivers	   File Size 	   File Angle	Down Angle
> Husqvarna	        H36 (91VG)	   12 IN	     2	501 84 21-45	     .050	       3/8	     45	      5/32	       30	             0
> Oregon	                   21BPX	   16 IN	3	21BPX066G	         .058	       .325	      66	       3/16	         30	              10
> Husqvarna 	              H30 	   18 IN	3	501 84 06-72	      . 050	        .325	      72	      3/16	          30                10
> Oregon	                    21BPX	   18 IN	2	21BPX72G	       .058	       .325	       72	        3/16       	30	              10
> Husqvarna 	             H46	   20 IN	3	501 84 25-72	     .050	        3/8	        72	        7/32	         25	              10
> Husqvarna                     H47	   20 IN	1	501 84 26-72	     .050	       3/8	      72	        7/32	        25	              10
> Husqvarna	                    H46	   24 IN	3	501 84 25-84	      .050	        3/8	       84	        7/32	        25	              10


 
here you go


----------



## Philbert

holshot14 said:


> Ok, Below is my personal official review of the Timberline Chain Sharpener. . . . Please comment or ask questions that I may have forgot or didn't remember to talk about.


 
Nice review. Nice photos. Thank you for taking the time to do this and to share it (I tried to rep you for it, but apparently, you are still in my 'holding pattern').

How about the quality of the edges created - top plate and side plate? This is always a topic of discussion between grinders and filers. I know that it can be hard to photograph these, but what is your opinion of the edges and the smoothness of the cut from the carbide cutter?

Thanks.

Philbert


----------



## OLD MAN GRINDER

Philbert said:


> Nice review. Nice photos. Thank you for taking the time to do this and to share it (I tried to rep you for it, but apparently, you are still in my 'holding pattern').
> 
> How about the quality of the edges created - top plate and side plate? This is always a topic of discussion between grinders and filers. I know that it can be hard to photograph these, but what is your opinion of the edges and the smoothness of the cut from the carbide cutter?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Philbert


 
I would like to echo philberts thanks for all your work in reviewing this product..
I sent an email to timberline regarding question on chains but no response so far..
My biggest concern is how many chains could be sharpened b4 bit is unusable, do
you have any advice on this ??, using a 20 in chain as an example, how many times
do u think it could be sharpened b4 tip is unusable, at 20.00 per tip, this is an
important issue in my mind, i have 3 saws and use 3 diff bar lenghts, 18-32 inches..

Your opinion on this would be greatly appreciated..

Thx again for a great review..

Bob..


----------



## Fish

sniff......


----------



## Clarkbug

Question for those of you who have this device (or for Phil).

Does the carbide "catch" on the inserts at all? Or is that portion of the carbide "stick" smooth? Im just wondering if over time it would wear the bushings down to the point where it wouldnt hold the angle with the same precision. I realize that could be many moons down the road, and it would STILL be better than my hand filing....


----------



## Fish

Well ask Phil....


----------



## Clarkbug

Fish said:


> Well ask Phil....


 
Well whaddya you think Fish? Does it look like its a wear point, or could be one? I know you said earlier that your chains were wearing onto the little flapper that is the stop, and I figure the carbide is even harder than that (since it is sharpening the chain and all)...


----------



## Fish

The carbide part is a smaller diameter and does not touch the guides at all


----------



## holshot14

Philbert, IMO the edges look great. Extremely close to the factory, I think. That carbide cutter is no joke. It is like running your finger over a bunch of razor blades.

OLD MAN GRINDER, I cant say how many chains that tip will sharpen, I would think there are several factors that determine its longevity including type of tooth, how dirty it is and how bad it is dulled to begin with. I think some one in an earlier post mentioned 20 chains. Might have been Fish of Rockstock? What I did notice is that the current tip has about a 5-10mm area closest to the angle insert that will never get used and is almost a waste. Making that tip longer then using a 5-10mm collar on the outside of the unit that is removable could double the life of the tip, IMO.

Clarkbug That part of the carbide tip is smooth and is always a solid on solid contact while in use. If you look at one of my pictures you can see how the cutter end is smaller than the rest of the "stick". Not to say it couldn't be a wear point down the road tho from in and out use over the years. I don't see it being a concern.


----------



## Clarkbug

Fish said:


> The carbide part is a smaller diameter and does not touch the guides at all


 
Well Ok. Thanks Fish!


----------



## OLD MAN GRINDER

OLD MAN GRINDER, I cant say how many chains that tip will sharpen, I would think there are several factors that determine its longevity including type of tooth, how dirty it is and how bad it is dulled to begin with. I think some one in an earlier post mentioned 20 chains. Might have been Fish of Rockstock? What I did notice is that the current tip has about a 5-10mm area closest to the angle insert that will never get used and is almost a waste. Making that tip longer then using a 5-10mm collar on the outside of the unit that is removable could double the life of the tip, IMO.

Thx Holshot, that ans my question, if i could get a minimum of 10-15 chain sharpenings per
tip, i could live with that, i am using oregon stones in a dremel now and i go thru quite a lot
of them, i have tried hand filing over the years, but i am lousy at it LOL..
You make a good point on the unused area of the tip, and that could be fixed with some
minor modifications, and really extend the life of the tip..
Looking fwd to getting the unit, especially for use in the field..

Thx again..

Bob..


----------



## young

OLD MAN GRINDER said:


> Thx Holshot, that ans my question, if i could get a minimum of 10-15 chain sharpenings per
> tip, i could live with that, i am using oregon stones in a dremel now and i go thru quite a lot
> of them, i have tried hand filing over the years, but i am lousy at it LOL..
> You make a good point on the unused area of the tip, and that could be fixed with some
> minor modifications, and really extend the life of the tip..
> Looking fwd to getting the unit, especially for use in the field..
> 
> Thx again..
> 
> Bob..


 
from earlier in the thread.



Rockstock said:


> Hey guys I have updated some of the info on the website. I appreciate the feedback and will try to answer all your questions.
> Everyone always asks me right from the start how long the carbide cutters last. I've had many customers tell me they are very happy with the cutters after *20+ sharpenings.* I've done demonstrations at trade shows using 1 carbide and after well over *100 sharpenings *I would still not consider it worn out as it still does a good job. The longevity will depend on how it is used, just like a chain. Use it correctly and it will last a very long time. I've used these on air tools at 4000 rpms and they work great! Very precise at removing small amounts of metal because of the high flute count.
> 
> Yes, the .404" chain can be sharpened and uses the 7/32" carbide cutter.
> 
> The tool comes standard with the angle set at 30˚ and optional guides are available to change the angle to 25˚ or 35˚ I have been really surprised that most people really could care less about changing the angles. :msp_confused:
> 
> Had a lot of really good reviews so far. I'm not trying to make this an advertisement on this thread, but I know more about this product than anyone. If your interested pm me and I'll give you a promo code for $30 off the tool.


----------



## OLD MAN GRINDER

Thx Young..

I had read that but it may sound stupid, i was not sure if 25-100 sharpenings
meant complete chains or individual teeth, it is now clarified by u all..

Thx much...

Bob..


----------



## craig71

I would love to see a video of the chain cutting some wood after sharpening with this very neat looking tool. I must say it looks pretty cool and looks well built.


----------



## Clarkbug

OLD MAN GRINDER said:


> Thx Young..
> 
> I had read that but it may sound stupid, i was not sure if 25-100 sharpenings
> meant complete chains or individual teeth, it is now clarified by u all..
> 
> Thx much...
> 
> Bob..


 
I was also curious Bob.

But I was more thinking, will this last to sharpen a complete chain 25-100 times, or will it sharpen 25-100 complete chains...


----------



## OLD MAN GRINDER

Clarkbug said:


> I was also curious Bob.
> 
> But I was more thinking, will this last to sharpen a complete chain 25-100 times, or will it sharpen 25-100 complete chains...


 
LOL..

Bob..


----------



## JimMorrison

Any concerns about all the little bits of metal causing wear on the bar, chain and sprocket? Would running the saw fling the shavings off, or would it mix with the bar oil and become a grinding paste?


----------



## Hddnis

Gets flung off, same as when filing a chain. What little might stay behind is far less abrasive than dust from grinding wheels.



Mr. HE


----------



## JimMorrison

Thanks. I'm probably going to try one of these.


----------



## atvdave

Got mine today.. Took about 4 days to ship to SW Indiana. Kinda of a pain getting the handle w/bit installed back into the small front pocket, very tight fit, may just have to remove the bit when not in uses. Also would have also liked to have seen some allen wrench's with the package to keep in the tool pouch for quick changing of the bit.

But overall it looks like a good, and well built tool.


----------



## holshot14

atvdave said:


> Got mine today.. Took about 4 days to ship to SW Indiana. Kinda of a pain getting the handle w/bit installed back into the small front pocket, very tight fit, may just have to remove the bit when not in uses. Also would have also liked to have seen some allen wrench's with the package to keep in the tool pouch for quick changing of the bit.
> 
> But overall it looks like a good, and well built tool.


 
Mine came with an Allen wrench?


----------



## atvdave

holshot14 said:


> Mine came with an Allen wrench?



Looking at Fish's pic's he also got a wrench, but it came packaged with his extra carbide guides. Was your wrench with the extra cutter you ordered?

I didn't order anything extra,( I should have) just the tool with 30* guides, and one cutter 7/32.


----------



## Fish

New Federal Statutes now make it illegal to bring Allen wrenches into Indiana............


----------



## Fish

Give me some time, I am still working on the punchline.............

Writing new "Hoosier" jokes takes some time.....


----------



## atvdave

Fish said:


> New Federal Statutes now make it illegal to bring Allen wrenches into Indiana............



Will work for beer
:censored:


----------



## WesternSaw

*Thanks to all*

Hey Fellas I had started another thread concerning this product,I should have done a search first.Thanks to Edge and Engine for letting me know a thread was ongoing.I was just looking through the Lee Valley Tools catolog and came across the tool.Lee Valley usually puts quite a bit of thought into putting up a new item for sale.
Lawrence


----------



## atvdave

Fish said:


> Give me some time, I am still working on the punchline.............
> 
> Writing new "Hoosier" jokes takes some time.....





Oh… I see you’re from the KY state. I have a lot of KY jokes, just can’t post them here, but they all have to do with kissing cousin’s, taking your sister to the prom, and teaching your daughter’s how to French kiss.

:msp_biggrin:


----------



## Fish

Heck, we even throw our Amish in jail here!!!!!!


----------



## holshot14

atvdave said:


> Looking at Fish's pic's he also got a wrench, but it came packaged with his extra carbide guides. Was your wrench with the extra cutter you ordered?
> 
> I didn't order anything extra,( I should have) just the tool with 30* guides, and one cutter 7/32.


 
Yes, my fault, the Allen wrench came with the extra cutter not in the original packaging.


----------



## atvdave

Fish said:


> Heck, we even throw our Amish in jail here!!!!!!



Yep.... All over a little red triangle....


----------



## Fish

The Devil's Triangle!!!!!!!!

Got any snake handlers up your way????


----------



## Philbert

Rockstock said:


> I'm not trying to make this an advertisement on this thread, but I know more about this product than anyone. If your interested pm me and I'll give you a promo code for $30 off the tool.


 
Looks like Lee Valley Tools is giving everyone a promo code:

(from Pete'sOldSaw's post)






Philbert


----------



## atvdave

Philbert said:


> Looks like Lee Valley Tools is giving everyone a promo code:
> 
> (from Pete'sOldSaw's post)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Philbert



no..the carbide burr's or sold separately. So it will be 99.00 for the tool with guides, and 19.50 for a bit. (but they do have a free shipping promo going on right now.)

Through the timberline web sight you get the tool with guides, and the bit for 129.00 -30.00 with the promo code. (but you do pay shipping)


----------



## JimMorrison

I talked to Phil and ordered mine yesterday. I've never sharpened a chain at all. That makes me the best test of all. After it gets here, I'll let you know. 107 was the total cost.


----------



## Rockstock

I'll add some hints and tips to the website soon. The carbide/handle is a very tight fit in the pocket and really only goes in one way. Open the zipper all the way and put the point of the carbide down in the very bottom of the corner (side with the zipper). If it's not in the very bottom its very difficult to try and zip closed.


----------



## MacLaren

bump.....Just got home and found my Timberline here. I must say it is very nice. Has a very nice case to carry it. I talked to someone else that has already used it and he said the angles looked very good and was very sharp as well. I cant wait to give mine a go as well. Looks like these ole boys are gonna make it. Seems very impressive that the carbide will go for over 20 sharpenings as well. And IMHO, the price tag is more than worth it for the averagr firewood cutter, as that would last them a very long time.


----------



## daoud

atvdave said:


> no..the carbide burr's or sold separately. So it will be 99.00 for the tool with guides, and 19.50 for a bit. (but they do have a free shipping promo going on right now.)
> 
> Through the timberline web sight you get the tool with guides, and the bit for 129.00 -30.00 with the promo code. (but you do pay shipping)


 
There is a 40 $ difference advantage to buy directly with promo code. But this is only if you do not pay all the taxes and brokage fees...


----------



## MacLaren

Well men, I got to sharpen the chain on my 660 today. A Stihl chain. Good shape. All I can say is the Timberline is for real. It's actually quite "humbling"......just when I thought I was filing decent, it showed me just how bad I was filing. I will try and post some pics later on. The only problems I have had is re-adjusting for height. Sometimes, it took a couple passes to get it right. But make no mistake about it, its the best tool I've ever used to sharpen chain. It just puts a big ole grin on your face when you see all those teeth at a perfect 30 degree angle and sharp as a razor.


----------



## Fish

MacLaren said:


> It just puts a big ole grin on your face when you see all those teeth at a perfect 30 degree angle and sharp as a razor.


 
You dated her too?


----------



## MacLaren

Fish said:


> You dated her too?


 
LOL, I cant deny it man......just one of things........It was the "dog" in me.....LOL


----------



## holshot14

MacLaren said:


> ......just when I thought I was filing decent, it showed me just how bad I was filing.




I felt the exact same way, some teeth were perfect, some teeth were decent, and some i dont know what the heck i was doing, LOL!!


----------



## young

its perfect for stihl rsc. would like to have the 10 degree angle for the oregon chains.


----------



## Edge & Engine

young said:


> its perfect for stihl rsc. would like to have the 10 degree angle for the oregon chains.


 
Oregon's 510 grinder didn't do 10* down angles. I talked to Oregon and they said it's not necessary.


----------



## holshot14

young said:


> its perfect for stihl rsc. would like to have the 10 degree angle for the oregon chains.


 
All my chain is Oregon/husqvarna, all of which is supposed to have the 10 down, but they still sharpen extremely nice and cut just as well. Would be a nice addition to a gen 2 device tho.


----------



## edisto

petesoldsaw said:


> Hey Fellas I had started another thread concerning this product,I should have done a search first.Thanks to Edge and Engine for letting me know a thread was ongoing.I was just looking through the Lee Valley Tools catolog and came across the tool.Lee Valley usually puts quite a bit of thought into putting up a new item for sale.
> Lawrence


 
I was thinking of starting a thread when my Lee Valley catalog came out. I was intrigued because, as you say, Lee Valley doesn't sell junk.


----------



## MacLaren

edisto said:


> I was thinking of starting a thread when my Lee Valley catalog came out. I was intrigued because, as you say, Lee Valley doesn't sell junk.


 
It's really a fine tool. I loved using it today. That carbide will last a long time as well.


----------



## young

Edge & Engine said:


> Oregon's 510 grinder didn't do 10* down angles. I talked to Oregon and they said it's not necessary.


 
well then it near perfect for my needs. 25 30 35 are all covered.

need something like this for square ground.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## MacLaren

young said:


> well then it near perfect for my needs. 25 30 35 are all covered.
> 
> need something like this for square ground.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


 
Now THAT would be a trick!


----------



## JimMorrison

Thanks to holshot14 and fish, for taking a flyer on this. I got mine today. Super busy and couldn't get to it until tonight. Sharpened two chains. Homelite Super XL-925, 24" bar, 3/8", .050, semi chisel. Saw was purchased new in late 80's. Good saw. Performance gradually decreased over the years. Starving for fuel. Vent in cap, bought a new one. No improvement. Quit using it about five years ago. Recently took it to independent shop. Mushy fuel lines replaced, and general clean up. No carb kit, no other work. Upon return, it seemed to run good, but couldn't cut for sh%t. Chain was obviously trashed. I have four chains for this saw, that I kept in rotation, between home and the guy who sharpened them for me. I ordered the sharpener and let the saw sit until it got here. It took me an hour of messing around to get it right. Took the saw outside and it cut like the day I bought it. The second chain was on the 272XP from srcarr, 20" bar, 3/8", .050, full chisel. Not new, sharpened once, in very good shape. I sharpened this chain in less then 5 minutes. Took this saw outside and it cut like the day I brought it home. Bottom line, this product works for me. It's not perfect, but it works. I will not be sending my chains out to be sharpened.


----------



## hydro2

I ordered one today!! Place duplicate order and talked to Phil to cancel one order. Phil was very nice. Looking forward to getting it. I do have a bench grinder too.


----------



## bert0168

^ +1. Ordered mine today as well with all three carbides, and all based on the reviews by the members here.

Thanks for taking the plunge and posting the reviews! :msp_thumbup:


----------



## hydro2

bert0168 said:


> ^ +1. Ordered mine today as well with all three carbides, and all based on the reviews by the members here.
> 
> Thanks for taking the plunge and posting the reviews! :msp_thumbup:


 
You mean you didn't order two by mistake like I did??? LOl I have never done that before!!! I guess I was really excited. HAA HA


----------



## bert0168

hydro2 said:


> You mean you didn't order two by mistake like I did??? LOl I have never done that before!!! I guess I was really excited. HAA HA


 
No but I almost did, couldn't find the place on the site to add the extra carbide and just before I continued I realized I had 2 complete units and no third carbide. :msp_confused:


----------



## hydro2

bert0168 said:


> No but I almost did, couldn't find the place on the site to add the extra carbide and just before I continued I realized I had 2 complete units and no third carbide. :msp_confused:


 
I don't feel so bad now!!! HA HA The computer hung so I did not think it submitted my order. Turns out it did!!


----------



## Jazzync

Got mine today based on the reviews here. Ordered it Monday got here today not bad from Idaho to NC. Haven't tried it yet, but I have a question about the optional guides. I need to use the 25 degree cut angle. Is there a foolproof way to know which way to put in the guides so they are at the right angle?


----------



## Fish

hydro2 said:


> I ordered one today!! Place duplicate order and talked to Phil to cancel one order. Phil was very
> nice looking. I do have a bench grinder too.


 
Yeah, he is kinda hot....... I have a bench grinder too.....


----------



## MacLaren

Fish said:


> Yeah, he is kinda hot....... I have a bench grinder too.....


 
LOL............................:msp_thumbsup:


----------



## hydro2

Fish said:


> Yeah, he is kinda hot....... I have a bench grinder too.....


 
I didn't put looking in there. Lol. Cracking up. 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## jersev

*promo*

Why wont my promo code work at timberlines web site?


----------



## bert0168

I hope this thing takes off for Phil. I ordered mine and got it from Idaho to PA in 2 days!

Haven't had a chance to use it yet, busy with the farm tractor issues and getting my chipper running but it's raining today so I might find time to try it out.


----------



## hydro2

Yea mine came in like two days also. I live in Pa. 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## JimMorrison

I,m a fan. If you have a bunch of chains in good shape, and touched them up on a regular basis, the carbide bit looks like it would last for years. I'm going back through an inventory of old chains that are in very poor shape, and the sharpener is doing a great job so far. Once I get everything back to spec, I expect to touch up any of them in less then five minutes.


----------



## MacLaren

JimMorrison said:


> I,m a fan. If you have a bunch of chains in good shape, and touched them up on a regular basis, the carbide bit looks like it would last for years. I'm going back through an inventory of old chains that are in very poor shape, and the sharpener is doing a great job so far. Once I get everything back to spec, I expect to touch up any of them in less then five minutes.


 
Great post Jim. I was thinkin the same thing. The carbide puts it at a perfect angle and as sharp as factory, but I can get them a little sharper with a save edge file.


----------



## JimMorrison

My grandfather used to sharpen all our chains. I should have paid more attention and learned the knack of it. He used it as a reason to take a break, so I'd grab another saw and keep cutting. We would work all day like that. He was a really good grandfather, and a great guy. I should have known he was doing more than just taking a break. #1 thing with a chainsaw, other than clean fuel, is a sharp chain.


----------



## Philbert

JimMorrison said:


> #1 thing with a chainsaw, other than clean fuel, is a sharp chain.


 
+1

Different things work for different people. Some guys hand file, some use file guides, some use (different types of) grinders, some use Dremels, some take them in and have someone sharpen it for them, and some throw chains out when they get dull. Glad to hear that this device is the answer for some. Look forward to seeing it in person sometime.

Philbert


----------



## craig71

i would like to see a video of a chainsaw cutting after a sharpening from this guide.:msp_smile:


----------



## Fish

Jazzync said:


> Got mine today based on the reviews here. Ordered it Monday got here today not bad from Idaho to NC. Haven't tried it yet, but I have a question about the optional guides. I need to use the 25 degree cut angle. Is there a foolproof way to know which way to put in the guides so they are at the right angle?


 
That was one of my first problems I saw with the attachments, they need to be marked better.


----------



## JimMorrison

craig71 said:


> i would like to see a video of a chainsaw cutting after a sharpening from this guide.:msp_smile:


 
Man, I should have done this. My old XL925 could barely burn it's way thru a 6" branch, when I got it back from the shop. I parked it and ordered the sharpener. Now it rips thru the 20" main trunk.


----------



## firediver125

*I am the 250th customer to order*

I ordered mine yesterday, and I am order number 250! I am looking forward to getting the product and to write my own review. Paul


----------



## holshot14

firediver125 said:


> I ordered mine yesterday, and I am order number 250! I am looking forward to getting the product and to write my own review. Paul


 


Will be looking forward to your review.


----------



## Sawin

atvdave said:


> Got mine today.. Took about 4 days to ship to SW Indiana. to remove the bit when not in uses. Also would have also liked to have seen some allen wrench's with the package to keep in the tool pouch for quick changing of the bit. Kinda of a pain getting the handle w/bit installed back into the small front pocket, very tight fit, may just have
> 
> But overall it looks like a good, and well built tool.


 
I received one yesterday. Have not used it yet, but hoping it will be easier on my hurtin' hands. 

I remembered this concern about the handle and with the bit on it. I took a small piece of gas tubing and put it over the carbide so as not to cut the case over time. Also I found that the handle with the carbide fits into the larger pocket fine. I then put in the jig, and seem to have plenty of room.


----------



## atvdave

Sawin said:


> I received one yesterday. Have not used it yet, but hoping it will be easier on my hurtin' hands.
> 
> I remembered this concern about the handle and with the bit on it. I took a small piece of gas tubing and put it over the carbide so as not to cut the case over time. Also I found that the handle with the carbide fits into the larger pocket fine. I then put in the jig, and seem to have plenty of room.



Good point about the handel, and yes.. a cover (or some kind of protector) for the bit is a must in my eye's. I probably just store it in a old dremel bit tube when not in use. I'll be keeping this tool in my chain saw tool box (a old ammo box) and I'm concerned the bit will get chipped bouncing around in the box when hunting for wood.


----------



## Jazzync

*Question about technique*

I've been using the sharpener for about 3 weeks and it seems to be doing a good job. However; after sharpening the chain today, I noticed that the "front" cutters as you look at the device are longer than the back ones. Has anyone else noticed this and if not what am I doing wrong? I have never sharpened a chain by hand so I am trying to learn. Also, I have used the sharpener on this chain between 5-10 times. Any help in perfecting my technique is welcome.


----------



## Philbert

atvdave said:


> and yes.. a cover (or some kind of protector) for the bit is a must in my eye's. . . . I'm concerned the bit will get chipped bouncing around in the box when hunting for wood.


 
I don't have one of these set-ups, but for other cutting tools, I have used a short length of clear, plastic tubing, sold by the foot at most hardware stores, to protect the edges. You can sometimes get a custom fit by heating up the tubing (hot water or heat gun) and forcing it on the first time.

For files, I use plastic drinking straws from McDonalds or wherever.

Philbert


----------



## Sawin

Jazzync said:


> I've been using the sharpener for about 3 weeks and it seems to be doing a good job. However; after sharpening the chain today, I noticed that the "front" cutters as you look at the device are longer than the back ones. Has anyone else noticed this and if not what am I doing wrong? I have never sharpened a chain by hand so I am trying to learn. Also, I have used the sharpener on this chain between 5-10 times. Any help in perfecting my technique is welcome.



Looks can be deceiving. Have you actually measured them? If so how much diff.?


----------



## firediver125

*Setting up the sharpener*

I got the sharpener and have used it a little bit. First thing is the glue that holds the pad against the bar is not very good, ours was in the carry case not connected anymore. secoond we haven't firgured out correct set-up to be able to sharpen both side in sequence. Any tips? After we have more time to play with it I will have a better review to put on here.


----------



## MacLaren

firediver125 said:


> I got the sharpener and have used it a little bit. First thing is the glue that holds the pad against the bar is not very good, ours was in the carry case not connected anymore. secoond we haven't firgured out correct set-up to be able to sharpen both side in sequence. Any tips? After we have more time to play with it I will have a better review to put on here.


 
I hear ya on the pad falling off. Mine did within the first use. It can be a little tricky gettin it the right height to do both sides. I find myself re-adjusting.....but it does a splendid job IMHO.


----------



## atvdave

Fish said:


> Heck, we even throw our Amish in jail here!!!!!!



Too Funny.... Your story made the "Tonight Show"... WAY to go KY state....


----------



## firediver125

MacLaren said:


> I hear ya on the pad falling off. Mine did within the first use. It can be a little tricky gettin it the right height to do both sides. I find myself re-adjusting.....but it does a splendid job IMHO.


 
Maybe they should try a different glue on that pad, I wonder if we are the only ones with that problem so far? What did you do to set your height on the guide?


----------



## blackoak

This sharpener , or one that looks the same was first introduced in the early 1980's. It was called the Gamn chain sharpener. The company is no longer in business. I still have a couple, but the cutters are worn out. They were made in southern Indiana.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/28508.htm
There is a Gamn on Ebay now. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gamn-Chain-...017?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aafd7e2d9


----------



## Philbert

blackoak said:


> This sharpener , or one that looks the same was first introduced in the early 1980's. It was called the Gamn chain sharpener. The company is no longer in business. I still have a couple, but the cutters are worn out. They were made in southern Indiana.
> http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/28508.htm


 
Here is a photo of the one on e-Bay so that people can see what it looks like after that listing is pulled (sorry, the computer I am using right now will only let me save it in a PDF document, not as a JPEG).

Philbert


----------



## MacLaren

firediver125 said:


> Maybe they should try a different glue on that pad, I wonder if we are the only ones with that problem so far? What did you do to set your height on the guide?


 

Honestly, I just sometimes have to take the damn thing off and either raise it or lower it. But the chain looks perfect.I showed pops21 the chain and he was very impressed. So...


----------



## hydro2

firediver125 said:


> Maybe they should try a different glue on that pad, I wonder if we are the only ones with that problem so far? What did you do to set your height on the guide?


 
Nope pad my fell off. 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## deye223

i don't spose some one would send one of these to a aussie wood cutter looks like a good bit of kit


----------



## Dozer Man

*Timberline*

Just ordered one last night...got several chains to sharpen (20" to 36"). I'm sure there is a learning curve on this thing. But at $.30 per tooth sharpened at the local saw shop, it's worth a try. Hope to have good results...will let you all know soon.


----------



## MacLaren

Dozer Man said:


> Just ordered one last night...got several chains to sharpen (20" to 36"). I'm sure there is a learning curve on this thing. But at $.30 per tooth sharpened at the local saw shop, it's worth a try. Hope to have good results...will let you all know soon.



Good for you! I love mine. Theres not very much of a learning curve. If ya have any troubles shoot me a pm. I will help ya all I can. I get fantastic results. I believe my chains are as every bit as good as factory. I then touch them up just a bit with a save edge file.


----------



## JustinM

Kenskip1 said:


> Sharpening is just one part. How about the rakers? Suppose that you have different angles for different chains?It is a good simple design but has to many shortcomings. JMO Ken



Bingo.

The sharpening is the easy/fast part, imho. Its the rakers that drive me nuts and always seem to get missed when I have a friend who 'just cant get his chain sharp enough"


----------



## Dozer Man

*Fast Shipping*

Just got home from a family reunion and was pleasantly surprised to find a package from Timberline sitting in front of my door!!! I placed my order at 12:30AM on the night of the 3rd...recieved sharpener on the 5th...that's holly crap fast! Can't wait to try it out tomorrow and hopefully saw some wood with a sharp chain. Will let you all know how it goes soon...


----------



## MacLaren

Dozer Man said:


> Just got home from a family reunion and was pleasantly surprised to find a package from Timberline sitting in front of my door!!! I placed my order at 12:30AM on the night of the 3rd...recieved sharpener on the 5th...that's holly crap fast! Can't wait to try it out tomorrow and hopefully saw some wood with a sharp chain. Will let you all know how it goes soon...



LOL, yes, I remember I had also mentioned what fast shipping it was as well. Keep us in the loop.....


----------



## deye223

*Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener*

i have done a search on ebay nothing where do i find some one that will send one of these to australia:msp_biggrin:


----------



## MacLaren

deye223 said:


> i have done a search on ebay nothing where do i find some one that will send one of these to australia:msp_biggrin:



Will Timberline not send you one?


----------



## Dozer Man

deye223 said:


> i have done a search on ebay nothing where do i find some one that will send one of these to australia:msp_biggrin:



diye223,

I did a quick google search and the only place I could find this sharpener was with amazon.com. I looked at the shipping options and it listed international shipping, but I don't know if it was available or not. It did mention something about a several week wait possible for customs though. You'll have to check it out better.
As for "Lee Valley Tools" , I didn't have any luck finding it in there online catalog. 
Hopefully you will have better luck finding it.


----------



## MacLaren

Dozer Man said:


> diye223,
> 
> I did a quick google search and the only place I could find this sharpener was with amazon.com. I looked at the shipping options and it listed international shipping, but I don't know if it was available or not. It did mention something about a several week wait possible for customs though. You'll have to check it out better.
> As for "Lee Valley Tools" , I didn't have any luck finding it in there online catalog.
> Hopefully you will have better luck finding it.



You can order direct thru Timberline. I did. Talked to the owner and he sent me one for 30 bucks off at that.....


----------



## deye223

thanks all . i sent them a email to see if they will send me one, after reading this off a previous post i did not bother (the timberline site isnt very user friendly ,instructions sheet viewed upside down,faq page is a joke ,no clues to how long a carbide will last ,are there diff carbide sizes ? no place to contact the company directly through the site ) so i looked and no probs pays to look for your self hope they say yes .


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Dozer Man said:


> diye223,
> 
> I did a quick google search and the only place I could find this sharpener was with amazon.com. I looked at the shipping options and it listed international shipping, but I don't know if it was available or not. It did mention something about a several week wait possible for customs though. You'll have to check it out better.
> As for "Lee Valley Tools" , I didn't have any luck finding it in there online catalog.
> Hopefully you will have better luck finding it.



Here it is:* Hand-Crank Chain-Saw Sharpener - Lee Valley Tools
*
I, too, would like to see some chips from a newly sharpened chain.....

Shari


----------



## Chris J.

deye223 said:


> thanks all . i sent them a email to see if they will send me one, after reading this off a previous post i did not bother (the timberline site isnt very user friendly ,instructions sheet viewed upside down,faq page is a joke ,no clues to how long a carbide will last ,are there diff carbide sizes ? no place to contact the company directly through the site ) so i looked and no probs pays to look for your self hope they say yes .



Most of your queries have been addressed in this thread. I think that their rep posting in this thread (yes, I've forgotten his AS name) had acknowledged shortcoming in their site.


----------



## Sawin

"Rockstock" is his name on this site. Real name Phil. I have found him to quite accommodating. Talked to him on the phone a couple of times, as well as email.

He even sent me a new pawl at no charge, because I was going to mod the one I have. 

Yes, there is a small learning curve, but even myself, being an addle-brained old guy, managed to figure it out.

No, it is not perfect as far as fitting all chains, but definitely worth the time to figure out what works for you. 

Yes, it does produce a nice sharp tooth. Much easier on my hurtin' hands than a file.

My sentiments appear to be the same as "MacLaren" - The results are worth a little tinkering around.


----------



## MacLaren

Sawin said:


> "Rockstock" is his name on this site. Real name Phil. I have found him to quite accommodating. Talked to him on the phone a couple of times, as well as email.
> 
> He even sent me a new pawl at no charge, because I was going to mod the one I have.
> 
> Yes, there is a small learning curve, but even myself, being an addle-brained old guy, managed to figure it out.
> 
> No, it is not perfect as far as fitting all chains, but definitely worth the time to figure out what works for you.
> 
> Yes, it does produce a nice sharp tooth. Much easier on my hurtin' hands than a file.
> 
> My sentiments appear to be the same as "MacLaren" - The results are worth a little tinkering around.



Bingo.


----------



## funloven

Does anyone know if this is available in Australia?
I sent him a email but no reply.


----------



## MacLaren

funloven said:


> Does anyone know if this is available in Australia?
> I sent him a email but no reply.



Phil is a great guy. Just give him a few ticks, and he will hook ya up Im sure......


----------



## JimMorrison

I keep hearing it's a global economy and the world is shrinking. Why is this international shipping such a big deal? I have zero experience with this, but am willing to take a flyer, just to learn a lesson, if nothing else. If anybody knows how to arrange shipping, calculate cost, and wants to send me the money. I will order the sharpener and send it to you. I have no idea what I'm getting myself into, but it can't be that freakin hard to get done. I might charge a little for gas money, but will do this for pretty much free. A little of my time isn't worth all that much.:smile2:


----------



## Dozer Man

*Works Great*

Tried mine out today. I tried it on the stihl361 with a 20" stihl full chisle chain. The chain had been on a while with at least 1 trip to the saw shop for a grind on it. It has had several filings since then and was very dull and cutting way left (hit the dirt a few times while learning how to noodle). 

After setting the sharpener on the bar and learning how to set it to a tooth a couple times, I was off and making some shavings around the chain. Simple directions and very direct. I started on the right side teeth and found I couldn't get the left side teeth to sinc with them. I found it easier to go around the chain sharpening all rights, and then adjust for the lefts, then go around sharpening all the lefts. The teeth were so uneven and crooked that I went ahead and hit them 3 times. First 2 times just to straighten things out so I didn't have to adjust for uneven teeth lengths. The 3rd time was just to make sure all was even and sharp (didn't need third time around the chain). I would guess it took me 30-40 minutes tops. That's putting saw in vise, opening package, reading simple instructions, sharpen chain, and then un-vise and walk through the door heading to the woodpile. 

At the wood pile...The first log I came to with a round sticking out, ready to cut was an 18" ash. Eased into it and found real quick that the 361 was pulling into the log hard. So I wound her up and she cut fast and straight through. I was smiling big time!! I then went to finish cutting a 22-24" pin oak (with a 20" bar). After cutting the first 2 rounds...I found myself laughing!! The saw only had a half tank of gas, and I cut 1-16"ash round, 13-22"oak rounds, and at least 10-half noodled 22"+ oak rounds. And she still had gas left too. The saw cut like it had a new chain, if not then it was too close for me to call. _I liked it _!!!
:msp_thumbsup::msp_thumbsup: 

That was all the wood that was laid out so I shut down and started digging out all the dull chains I could find. Got 8-9 chains to sharpen (20"-36"). At $.30 per tooth, I think this thing will pay for itself pretty quick. I'll be pretty quick with this thing when I get them all done. With some practice, I can't see using the timberline sharpener as being much slower than giving a good filing, if at all.

I'm very impressed so far!!!
Thanx to all for there insight!
:msp_thumbsup::msp_thumbsup:


----------



## pa guy

Does anyone know the promo code


----------



## MacLaren

pa guy said:


> Does anyone know the promo code



30off


----------



## pa guy

Thank you


----------



## MacLaren

pa guy said:


> Thank you



Your more than welcome. Have some with it. I sure have. Like a wise man once tole me. "Cant put a price tag on fun!"


----------



## koshari

Dozer Man said:


> The teeth were so uneven and crooked that I went ahead and hit them 3 times. First 2 times just to straighten things out so I didn't have to adjust for uneven teeth lengths. The 3rd time was just to make sure all was even and sharp (didn't need third time around the chain).




So you sharpened the chisels 3 times from an already blunt chain and didnt have to knock anything off the rakers , and it cut well?

amazing, the rakers must have been set VERY deep beforehand!


----------



## JimMorrison

Dozerman, if you go back a few pages, you will see I had almost the exact same experience. I had to rehab some chains, sharpened {yeah right} by someone else. Made a huge difference. This tool is not perfect, but what is? Heather Graham. You can do your own chains, better then all but the best. After you've gone through all your chains, keeping them good is quick and easy. I have not had to touch the rakers yet, thats how bad my guy in town was doing.


----------



## Dozer Man

The chain that I hit 3 times was in sad shape from me using a file on it too many times(too many times in the dirt). Once you set the sharpener to sharpen a tooth, sharpen that tooth and move on to next one. My problem was that I would go 4 or 5 teeth and have to readjust the backstop for a tooth. Once I readjusted I felt the need to go around and make them all even. It all sounds like I was taking a lot of "meat" off of the teeth, but I wasn't. I set everything up to take the minimun to start with. And as for the rakes, I use full chisle stihl chain, which had been sharpened professionally at a local shop not too long ago. I'm sure they keep the rakes within specs. I know I'm not very good with a hand file, therefore I only file to touchup or to get a sawchain cutting straight again. Btw, I will prob hit the rakes on the next full sharpen of this chain. It doesn't need it yet, It pulls into the tree very hard...and I love that fealing!!!:msp_smile::msp_smile::msp_smile:

Another observation...if you are digging out old chains to sharpen, make sure to inspect them carefully before sharpening. I got 3/4 of the way around what seemed like a descent chain when I got to the link that spread wide enough that I could almost push it apart by hand. The chain also had a good amount of stretch to it too, so it hit the scrap pile. 
The carbide on these sharpeners have a limited lifespan, don't waist it on junk chains!!!


----------



## kevin85

Just tried to order one with the promo code "30off". It says 30off is not a valid code.....???


----------



## MacLaren

kevin85 said:


> Just tried to order one with the promo code "30off". It says 30off is not a valid code.....???



It may not be valid any longer. Call Oregon and find out. I would tell him you are with AS. It may get ya the 30 off promo.


----------



## Dozer Man

*promo code*



kevin85 said:


> Just tried to order one with the promo code "30off". It says 30off is not a valid code.....???



You can send a personal message to "Rockstock" for a current promo code. You can find him on page 2 of this thread. He only gave me 25 off (promo code 25off). He gave a very quick return message.


----------



## NuggyBuggy

I thought one of Rockstock's posts suggested that the ability to do 0 degrees was "on the horizon". I read the whole thread after that, but didn't see any mention of this again, and Phil seems to have stopped posting in the thread. Since quite a few guys here seemed to have been in touch, has anyone heard more on this front ? I haven't learned how to file yet, and would prefer not to - at least until I am finished milling some logs before snow starts falling.,,


----------



## justtools

Hi I just emailed him about this. He said he just lowered the price on the unit and the new code is 20off. Thanks


----------



## Dozer Man

*haven't heard*



NuggyBuggy said:


> I thought one of Rockstock's posts suggested that the ability to do 0 degrees was "on the horizon". I read the whole thread after that, but didn't see any mention of this again, and Phil seems to have stopped posting in the thread. Since quite a few guys here seemed to have been in touch, has anyone heard more on this front ? I haven't learned how to file yet, and would prefer not to - at least until I am finished milling some logs before snow starts falling.,,



You could send him a pm. He answered me pretty quick. I don't know much at all about milling with a chainsaw (seen it once). Are "milling chains" 0 degree?? 
I've seen the offsets that set the sharpener at different degrees...25 or 35 I believe. After using the timberline, I don't know if it would be possible to make a "0 degree" insert adapter. On the other hand, I could be very wrong too. Never thought about it till I read your post.

I would definately send him a personal message, I'm sure he will answer you quickly. Let us know what he says too.


----------



## deye223

*i give up*

a kind member told me how to order one of these now it wont take my order


----------



## Log Hogger

Looks slow and I wonder how well it matches the cutter length on each side. Unless it centers perfectly on the bar, that chain won't be cutting straight, which is the problem I've had with every file jig I've tried. 

It's pretty hard to beat Husqvarna's roller guide sharpeners IMO. Cheap, simple, and with a little practice they're nearly as accurate as a file jig. Plus they have a plate to file depth gauges, and it gets them at the right angle. I can sharpen a chain in the field in a couple minutes. Then every 3-5 hand sharpenings, it gets trued up on my grinder, which is a $100 chinese knockoff of Oregon's grinder. $130 for a bar-mounted contraption with no adjustments? Pfffft!


----------



## Dozer Man

*first try*

On my first try, I took a chain that was in need of professional help. It was cutting a half moon in a 24" oak log, and truely wore out too... Now it is cutting straight, pulling very hard, and cutting fast. Finished cutting 13 rounds off same 24" pin oak log and finished noodling 8 more halfs. On a half tank of fuel with a 20" bar. 
Beginners luck?? Doubt it. 
After doing several chains now, it's not much slower than filing. At least for me it isn't, but I suck at filing, thats why I was looking for something to use in the field. 
Works good for me so far...still on first carbide too.


----------



## Sawin

Log Hogger said:


> Looks slow and I wonder how well it matches the cutter length on each side. Unless it centers perfectly on the bar, that chain won't be cutting straight, which is the problem I've had with every file jig I've tried.
> 
> It's pretty hard to beat Husqvarna's roller guide sharpeners IMO. Cheap, simple, and with a little practice they're nearly as accurate as a file jig. Plus they have a plate to file depth gauges, and it gets them at the right angle. I can sharpen a chain in the field in a couple minutes. Then every 3-5 hand sharpenings, it gets trued up on my grinder, which is a $100 chinese knockoff of Oregon's grinder. $130 for a bar-mounted contraption with no adjustments? Pfffft!



Don't knock it you haven't tried it. :msp_tongue:

Now, I have absolutely nothing to do with this Co., but Have been quite satisfied with the product and support. I really think this sharpener is worth a try.

I can sharpen by hand, but as I matured, (read that as got old), I switched to the roller guide you spoke of. I thought it did a bang up job. In fact I never found it necessary to true up the chain on my grinder. I really didn't like like using the grinder, with the exception of rocked chains. I now, after using the Timberline, think the Husky guide does a mediocre job. It allows the saw to cut just...OK. The Timberline probably gets as close to a factory edge as reasonably possible.

As others have stated, take a chain that you think is sharpened quite good with the roller guide, and put the Timberline sharpener on it. I, too, could not believe how different the teeth were from each other. Really opened my eyes.

As far as the cutter length from side to side, It does a fine job. I'm still measuring a tooth here and there, just to ogle what a good job "I" have done.:msp_ohmy:

I have run up on some minor problems, and most of these problems are with the length, and the file hitting the "flapper" that the tooth is backed up to. Seem not all chains are built the same, even though they might look it. Not hard to work around...and once you figure out a way that works, all the teeth on that side are uniform.

As far as raker depth is concerned, you can still use any gauge you want. I still use a gauge. but do to the uniformity of the teeth, I think that a grinder could be set up and easily do the job.

As far as speed is concerned, once a chain has been sharpened with the Timberline, the sharpening is quite fast. I sit down and day dream or listen to the radio. I know that I can sharpen a chain in less time than using the guide. I have moderate arthritis in my hands. Enough for them to be crooked, and painful. With the Timberline, I find it much easier to sharpen. I have put a larger ball on the handle, and this also adds to the ease of use for me.

I should add that I use mostly 20" chains, and don't believe I have ever sharpened by hand in a couple of minutes.

You mentioned the price...Yeah, it's not cheap. And, keep in mind that I still think in 1950-1960 prices. (Gasoline for a quarter a gal.) So I didn't purchase this gadget without some research, and gut feelings. "You pays you money, and you takes your chances." This one, is a win for me.


----------



## pa guy

Has anyone tried using the Timberline on duro chain


----------



## deye223

pa guy said:


> Has anyone tried using the Timberline on duro chain



you can not sharpen tugsten with tugsten it don't work
you need a diamond wheel


----------



## pa guy

That's kind of what I thought. I wonder if Timberline is working on bits for use on Duro chain. Of course diamond bits would cost more however it would be a nice option.


----------



## deye223

to slow ya need RPMs


----------



## pa guy

Just picked up ms230 duro yesterday. Guess duro chain is not such a great option after all. Ok it lasts 4 times longer but need optional accessories to sharpen.


----------



## Duane(Pa)

Dealer around here says he can sharpen Duro; same price as regular sharpening.


----------



## pa guy

I would rather sharpen myself. Guess I will buy what ever is necessary to do so. If I like the performance of the chain. What is a decent setup. Any suggestions


----------



## young

pa guy said:


> I would rather sharpen myself. Guess I will buy what ever is necessary to do so. If I like the performance of the chain. What is a decent setup. Any suggestions



grinder with a diamond wheel is your only option.


----------



## pa guy

I realize that but what grinder


----------



## Rockstock

NuggyBuggy said:


> I thought one of Rockstock's posts suggested that the ability to do 0 degrees was "on the horizon". I read the whole thread after that, but didn't see any mention of this again, and Phil seems to have stopped posting in the thread. Since quite a few guys here seemed to have been in touch, has anyone heard more on this front ? I haven't learned how to file yet, and would prefer not to - at least until I am finished milling some logs before snow starts falling.,,



Here is a link to a guy that wrote up some very good information on ripping chains. He knows his stuff.

Chainsaw Chain, Sawchain information for Chainsaw Mills from Procut Sawmills

Right now there is no way to set the tool up for 0˚ or even 10˚ to rip. However, that is something you may see in 2012.


----------



## pa guy

pa guy said:


> Just picked up ms230 duro yesterday. Guess duro chain is not such a great option after all. Ok it lasts 4 times longer but need optional accessories to sharpen.


I have come to realize what a mistake I made. Fortunately the dealer let me exchange for 250 c-be. Thank you to all for the great advice.


----------



## Philbert

pa guy said:


> Guess duro chain is not such a great option after all. . . . need optional accessories to sharpen. . . . I would rather sharpen myself. Guess I will buy what ever is necessary to do so . . . but what grinder



Sounds like you went back to standard chain. In response to your earlier post, you could have found a diamond wheel to work with most any of the conventional chain grinders. But if you had to buy both the wheel, and the grinder, that would be a significant investment for one saw. 

On top of that, I understand that diamond wheels get ruined if used on conventional steel chains, so it would only see limited use. It could make sense if you have several of the carbide or Duro chains, or if you could find a way to sharpen some for others to recoup some of your $$. Otherwise, it might make sense to just pay the dealer to sharpen it.

Philbert


----------



## pa guy

I guess when I said (what ever was necessary) I didn't think the bench setup would cost more than double the saw price lol. I have a total of ten saws all with standard chains but I was told the duro chain was so much better. After researching duro chains I found that the performance is not as good as standard chain but it does hold its edge 4 times longer. That being the case I'll stick with standard chain and hand sharpening and hopefully getting a Timberline for Christmas.


----------



## deye223

well i finally got one on the way be interested to see how long it takes to clear customs this time of the year


----------



## Jules083

Thanks for the reviews, just ordered mine. 

The regular ones are on back order, but the 'limited edition' ones are availible. They are the same thing, just a different color.


----------



## Dozer Man

*Cool!!*



Jules083 said:


> Thanks for the reviews, just ordered mine.
> 
> The regular ones are on back order, but the 'limited edition' ones are availible. They are the same thing, just a different color.



It has very simple directions that are very easy to follow. If you've read this thread, you've got quite a few tips for use. Give yourself a little time for a learning curve and I'm confident you will love it. 

Let us know what you think, good or bad, we all want to hear it.


----------



## deye223

still waiting, bloody customs . be another week i reckon


----------



## Dozer Man

*Christmas Present*



deye223 said:


> still waiting, bloody customs . be another week i reckon



Hopefully you will get it before Christmas!!! That would be a good present. Hopefully you get it soon.


----------



## Majorpayne

I ordered one Thursday, should be here next week.


----------



## Metals406

Anyone have some pictures of the finished tooth? Top, outside, inside, etc. . . It was hard to tell from the video, but it looked like the tool puts a lot of hook on the tooth (back-angle), leaving a beak which could dull very quickly.

A hooked chain will cut like the devil, but not for long.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

I'm still waiting for a photo of the sawdust - that's kind of what I go by.

Shari


----------



## deye223

Wife'nHubby said:


> I'm still waiting for a photo of the sawdust - that's kind of what I go by.
> 
> Shari



if no one has by the time i've got mine i'll post a pic 30 mins after i get it


----------



## deye223

Metals406 said:


> Anyone have some pictures of the finished tooth? Top, outside, inside, etc. . . It was hard to tell from the video, but it looked like the tool puts a lot of hook on the tooth (back-angle), leaving a beak which could dull very quickly.
> 
> A hooked chain will cut like the devil, but not for long.



ez fix just set it up higher on the bar = less hook


----------



## Wife'nHubby

deye223 said:


> if no one has by the time i've got mine i'll post a pic 30 mins after i get it




Pictures of the dull-chain-before-sharpening-sawdust and then the sharp-chain-after-sharpening-sawdust would be what I'd like to see.

Shari


----------



## deye223

Wife'nHubby said:


> Pictures of the dull-chain-before-sharpening-sawdust and then the sharp-chain-after-sharpening-sawdust would be what I'd like to see.
> 
> Shari



i don't normaly let my chain get that dull but i'll do it once just for you, it(the saw) can be a ditch witch for 5 or 10 seconds and then i'll sharpen it


----------



## craig71

Can someone post a video of the saw cutting after it has been sharpened by this guide. To me sharpening is no longer a challenge but that is after many years of practice and failure and words my mom would wash my mouth out with soap for. It is interesting when new products come on the market and seeing how they hold up quality wise. Looking forward to a video.


----------



## MacLaren

craig71 said:


> Can someone post a video of the saw cutting after it has been sharpened by this guide. To me sharpening is no longer a challenge but that is after many years of practice and failure and words my mom would wash my mouth out with soap for. It is interesting when new products come on the market and seeing how they hold up quality wise. Looking forward to a video.



Craig, I cant post a vid, but my 660 cut really well after a sharpening from the Timberline. Pops21 was impressed at the cutters as well. It looks factory, and cuts factory as far as Im concerned. The angles are perfect. Hope that helps.


----------



## craig71

Cool, I can't post videos either but I love to look at them :smile2:


----------



## Jules083

Just got done sharpening, looks better than I could ever do with a file. The 'hook' is adjustable, you have to tinker with the height to get it right. Once you get it once it's easy, just a matter of playing with the first tooth and learning where to set it.

Pros-
The angle is 100% perfect. I used to think I was good with a file
Speed. Not scientific I know, but it takes me 3 beers to sharpen with a file. Counting the learning curve I had 1/2 a beer left. 
Sharpness- It feels sharper with the finger test
Ease of use- even a drunk amature can do it
Very well built
I don't think the cutter will ever wear out. We abuse bits of the same design at work and they last a really long time. I've never actually worn one out, but I've wedged them in things while hooked to a die grinder and broken them.

Cons- 
-The cutter bit, while being very hard steel, is guided by aluminum and is a little bit sloppy. It is good enough right now, but the guide might start to show wear after heavy use.
-Carrying case, while well made, is made in china. So is most of the stuff you buy though.
-If the cutters were a little bit longer and went to a sharper point they would work better. If you have a nick in a tooth you have to sharpen, then pull the cutter out, move the adjustment knob, and sharpen again. 
-If your bar is worn the teeth will have some side play. There is a knob to put pressure on the tooth from one side, but some way to sandwich the tooth in would be nice.
-A guide for the rakers would be nice.

Neutral-
-No bottle opener. Not a big deal at all, but I needed one at the time.
-Speed. You'll get done quicker and not have a good excuse to be downstairs anymore.
-Price is expensive, but worth it.
-Don't tell your friends you have one, they'll keep you busy

Overall, I would buy it again for sure. I used to think I was good with a file until I used this and really saw how bad my angles were and how dull the chain actually was. I have some logs in the woods ready to cut right now, and looking at the chain I'm pretty confident it's going to be a big improvement.


----------



## Philbert

Jules083 said:


> I used to think I was good with a file until I used this and really saw how bad my angles were and how dull the chain actually was.



Not picking on Jules here, but this comment has been repeated by a lot of guys on this thread.

How come we never see postings from filers noting how grinders can get more consistent cutter angles than hand filing without a guide, but they will admit it with this tool?

Just curious.

Philbert


----------



## bert0168

I've had it for awhile now and compared to my MS362, it's the second best chainsaw related tool I've ever purchased.


----------



## Jules083

Philbert said:


> Not picking on Jules here, but this comment has been repeated by a lot of guys on this thread.
> 
> How come we never see postings from filers noting how grinders can get more consistent cutter angles than hand filing without a guide, but they will admit it with this tool?
> 
> Just curious.
> 
> Philbert



I can't speak for others, but personally I've never tried a grinder. I never like the idea of heating the tooth up and losing it's temper, so I've never wanted to try a grinder.


----------



## KiwiBro

*Paint me anal.*

"Unless you ask us not to, we may contact you via email in the future to tell you about specials, new products or services, or changes to this privacy policy."

I feel the business needs to have a lil' more faith in the quality of it's product and customer service, and NEVER opt customers in by default.


----------



## MacLaren

KiwiBro said:


> "Unless you ask us not to, we may contact you via email in the future to tell you about specials, new products or services, or changes to this privacy policy."
> 
> I feel the business needs to have a lil' more faith in the quality of it's product and customer service, and NEVER opt customers in by default.



I understand totally. But......they are a young (new) company and just want to get going. I cut them a little slack IMO.


----------



## Dozer Man

Jules,
Nice right up, made me start my day with a big smile! Thanks for that!

Philbert,
Imo there isn't too many people on this thread with grinders. If I had a grinder, I probly wouldn't have been looking for a new chain sharpener. And on that note, I take my chains to be professionally ground at my local Stihl dealer, well I used to anyways, and never got to see how far off my, and my dads, filings were. Just my thoughts fwiw.

Hope everyone has a great day!


----------



## half_full

Dozer Man said:


> Jules,
> Nice right up, made me start my day with a big smile! Thanks for that!



Absolutely. Some tasks just need to be measured by beer count.


----------



## Wife'nHubby

Okay - I caved - went to order this today and it says "backordered"........... ugh!

Shari


----------



## Majorpayne

It said that when I ordered mine too but I got it yesterday. Email Phil at [email protected]


----------



## half_full

I went to order today as well and did not see the location for a promo code. Does it come up after one selects complete order?
20off still latest code?


----------



## Majorpayne

20off was the code when I ordered last Thursday.


----------



## deye223

half_full said:


> I went to order today as well and did not see the location for a promo code. Does it come up after one selects complete order?
> 20off still latest code?



on monday 5-12-11 it was 15 off


----------



## half_full

They must be selling well if the promo went from 30 to 20 and now 15 off


----------



## Jules083

half_full said:


> Absolutely. Some tasks just need to be measured by beer count.



Just finished the second sharpening today, didn't even have the first beer done. Sat and looked at the fire for a few minutes while finishing. It goes much quicker the second time, due to the teeth already being at the correct angle.

I ran a tank of gas through the saw today, it cuts awesome. It's basically like putting a brand new chain on. I sliced up a few smaller trees, don't know what they were, then got to a 18" across Cherry. Chips looked good, and the saw was cutting as fast as can be expected out of a 10 year old 55 Rancher. It's a little underpowered for the bigger stuff, and the chain definately bites harder and takes a bit more power to turn. I have a used and ported 372XP that I should be getting next week, so that problem should be solved soon.


----------



## deye223

it's geting closer 
Arrival at Post Office, December 17, 2011, 6:58 am, AUSTRALIA 
Processed Through Sort Facility, December 12, 2011, 5:39 pm, AUSTRALIA 
Processed Through Sort Facility, December 08, 2011, 2:35 am, ISC SAN FRANCISCO (USPS)


----------



## cjnspecial

Phil shipped mine quickly, it made it here in 3 days. I've used it 3 times so far and it's super easy to use, one you set it up and use it a few times, it's very quick. 
I grazed a piece of metal on a brand new stihl rmc chain and had to sharpen it twice, I think because the factory angle is 25 degrees and the sharpener defaults to 30 degrees. Anyway, it cut better than it did out of the box...threw nice big chips. 
I'll try it on some old rsc and post a vid of it compared to a new loop on day later this week. 

Here's a pic of some chips(dried out oak) mixed in with some dust from making a few swedish candles.







View attachment 212180


----------



## deye223

got it. funny thing is i'm quicker with a file but it stays sharp longer with the sharpener because of less burs, so i'm happy
ps i use save edge files


----------



## Majorpayne

*Not so good results.*

I am trying to sharpen 3/8 full chisel and not getting good results. What am I missing? I have both sets of guides.


----------



## Dozer Man

*whats it doing*



Majorpayne said:


> I am trying to sharpen 3/8 full chisel and not getting good results. What am I missing? I have both sets of guides.



What seems to be the prob? I know one of the main problems I ran into was trying to sharpen both sides of the chain at the same time. I found it best to go through and sharpen all the left side teeth, and only after I was happy with the lefts, then I would reset and sharpen the right side teeth. I had no luck trying to sharpen both sides with from the same sharpener setting.


----------



## Majorpayne

It doesn't cut good after using it. What kind of chain are you using it on?


----------



## cjnspecial

Check the rakers and take a few close up pics of the chain if you can


----------



## Dozer Man

Majorpayne said:


> It doesn't cut good after using it. What kind of chain are you using it on?



I use stihl full chizel 3/8". Is it cutting crooked? Or just not cutting?


----------



## Majorpayne

*Both*

It doesn't throw out big chips and cuts to the right a little.


----------



## cjnspecial

Majorpayne said:


> It doesn't throw out big chips and cuts to the right a little.



I'd hit it again and double check the rakers.


----------



## Philbert

Majorpayne said:


> It doesn't throw out big chips and cuts to the right a little.



Pulling usually means that the angles on the right and left cutters are not the same, or the cutters are not the same length. This sharpener should be making identical angles, so check the length of the right and left cutters (use a micrometer or even an adjustable wrench) to see if they are identical. It is also possible that your bar rails are uneven or the groove is worn - try it with another chain to see if you get the same results.

Lack of big chips could be due to high rakers as cjnspecial suggests.

Philbert


----------



## benp

Mine came today. Very good initial impression right out of the box as far as fit and finish.

I have one complaint with it tho.

When the carbide is in the front (facing you) hole you have no clue how the cutter is riding in the tooth. Ironically, this also is my hardest side to sharpen with free hand. 






I want to see what that carbide is doing in the tooth. There where a few times when sharpening the other side that things got a little western and the jig shifted. I had no clue that it did this unless I looked at the cutter in the tooth and saw the gap. 






When on the other side you have no clue. 

All that is needed to rectify this is replicate the slot to hold the gear drive in for the stop.






The machining is already done on the other end to flip the stop apparatus around all that is needed is the slot to hold that in place.






I feel this would be a simple fix.

Aside from that, the kit is well made and fairly easy to use.

I like this alot and feel it would be served even better by be able to flip flop the jig side to side along with just moving the cutter.


----------



## dwraisor

Well mine came in. I am pleased w/ fit and finish, but like mentioned above being able to flip the jig would help to some degree. Although, the intent is to sharpen all cutters w/out removing the jig to ensure all cutters are the same length.

I started on my oldest chain, it has an odd ball cutter from hitting a rock, and is the one I really started learning to hand file... :bang: One thing is for sure, it definitely shows you that your hand filing is off. I have made a couple passes on just the left cutters, getting them all in line. File (er cut) them all until the carbide spins freely, and then find the one where the carbide is the loosest, reset the stop and go again..

It leaves a near polished finish on the cutter tooth, no file marks as w/ a hand file. Soon as I get this butchered up chain back to snuff... I'm going to try to cut some this weekend.

dw


----------



## nixon

I've been eyeing this thing for a while now . Didn't want to push it ,as I did really well for Christmas. But, being of weak mind and questionable character, I just ordered one .
I guess in a week or so ,I'll confirm that My hand filing is as bad as I've always suspected.


----------



## dwraisor

My hand filing is better now than it was when I butchered this chain, but not one, well maybe one, of the cutters were at a 30[SUP]o[/SUP] angle...

Nice thing about it the carbide bits are tapered so if you ease into the cutter it will slowly reshape the cutter as needed.

dw


----------



## jdinspector

BenP and dwraisor... So, how do your chains cut now? I'm particularly interested in that one that was in bad shape. (kidding- sort of) I know you just posted a few hours ago. I'll be looking forward to your reports.


----------



## dwraisor

jdinspector said:


> BenP and dwraisor... So, how do your chains cut now? I'm particularly interested in that one that was in bad shape. (kidding- sort of) I know you just posted a few hours ago. I'll be looking forward to your reports.



If I get to cut this weekend, (helping the sister move :frown I'll report, but the cutters all look nice and uniform, same length, razor sharp... I need to hit the guides as I took a far bit off straightening out the cutters.

dw


----------



## benp

jdinspector said:


> BenP and dwraisor... So, how do your chains cut now? I'm particularly interested in that one that was in bad shape. (kidding- sort of) I know you just posted a few hours ago. I'll be looking forward to your reports.



I haven't had a chance to do any real cutting with it. Just a couple test swipes.



dwraisor said:


> If I get to cut this weekend, (helping the sister move :frown I'll report, but the *cutters all look nice and uniform, same length, razor sharp*... I need to hit the guides as I took a far bit off straightening out the cutters.
> 
> dw



This is the part I am happy with. Plus you cant sharpen a tooth down to a nub if you flake out for a second the file. It only sharpens so much.

My initial test chain was one that I have been using for a while. It had been trued up on a grinder early this fall but the rest of the sharpenings have been by hand. You can definitely tell when you get into a cutter that's off. 

The other 2 chains I did are brand new and these were the initial sharpenings. No issues.

I am going to have that slot machined in the other side soon. Once that's there I will be able to fly with it.uttahere2:


----------



## half_full

I got a 24" B&C off fleabay for my PM700. The chain is "in good shape", uh if you don't mind the side that was rocked. Bar needed touching up but worth what I paid. 

Anyway, sharpened one pass with my new sharpener. Chain cut ok but not straight. Did a few more passes on the sharpener and it's cutting *great and straight*


----------



## bigbadbob

Ordered mine 18 Nov,,,backordered, expected to be shipped 18 January 2012,,, WTF:taped:
Tempted to cancel!!!!


----------



## dwraisor

bigbadbob said:


> Ordered mine 18 Nov,,,backordered, expected to be shipped 18 January 2012,,, WTF:taped:
> Tempted to cancel!!!!



Did you order direct from them? I ordered mine Dec 30 (real late at night) had it Tuesday. Was actually very surprised. I try contacting them.

dw


----------



## half_full

bigbadbob said:


> Ordered mine 18 Nov,,,backordered, expected to be shipped 18 January 2012,,, WTF:taped:
> Tempted to cancel!!!!



I contacted Phil at [email protected] and he mentioned he only had a few left. Maybe ask if the next production run incorporates any feedback from this thread??? It may be worth the wait


----------



## bigbadbob

Ordered thru Lee Valley Tools. Phil sent me a PM yesterday.
Sometimes being Canadian you get the back of the bus!!


----------



## half_full

bigbadbob said:


> Sometimes being Canadian you get the back of the bus!!


But you have better beer and fishing than I do


----------



## bigbadbob

half_full said:


> But you have better beer and fishing than I do


OH YEA,, no doubt about that!!!!
My bro is ice fishing,,, 5-8lb Eastern Brooks!!!!:msp_biggrin:
I am pulling a mazda 6 engine:taped:


----------



## deye223

*smoooooooth*





check out the smooth finish on the tooth 1st sharpen stihl 404 RSC


----------



## aleman

Ive got one of the limited edition models and cant seem to get the hang of using it. Im sure I just need to practice a little more but i find myself just using the good ole file. If anyone is thinking of buying one, let me know, Id let mine go. Its for a .325 chain. Ive probably used it less than 1 chain.

[email protected]


----------



## dwraisor

jdinspector said:


> BenP and dwraisor... So, how do your chains cut now? I'm particularly interested in that one that was in bad shape. (kidding- sort of) I know you just posted a few hours ago. I'll be looking forward to your reports.




jdinspector,
I cut yesterday... The chain worked flawlessly. Cut straight, threw good chips. I am very pleased with the sharpener. Took a litle practice at first, but by the 1st chain I had the hang of it.


dw


----------



## jdinspector

That seals the deal for me. I'm purchasing one. Not a lot of cutting to do right now, but I can't resist!

Thanks for your information. uttahere2:


----------



## gtsawyer

After reviewing the entire thread, I think I'm sold on this sharpener. I have the old Gamn sharpener (which is really similar), and like it, although it doesn't look as nicely designed as this one. I like the idea of not having to pull the chain and replace it with one sharpened on my grinder (please don't tell me I should hand sharpen - I'm not that good at it, and really don't like buying new files all the time). The price of this new sharpener seems a bit steep, so I'll have to save up some fun-tickets before buying one.


----------



## benp

Well, it was a good day. 

I got some seat time with one of my sharpened chains. I ran though a bunch of popple this afternoon with my 510.

Aaaaand I really didn't notice much difference from my swedish roller sharpening. 

Which to me is GOOD.

I also had mine modified this week. I got it machined so it can be flip flopped side to side. 





















To me, this is a huge improvement as I can now see what is going on with the cutter and the toof. 

It takes no time to swap out the stop. There were no issues running the cutter left handed. 

I feel this would be a worthy modification for the company to make. 

All in all I really dig the sharpener. For me, it's a poor mans grinder. I will continue to hand file to touch things up in the field, but will use this to keep the teeth trued when sharpening in the shop.


----------



## bigbadbob

I am still waiting.:msp_sad:


----------



## Philbert

benp said:


> I also had mine modified this week. I got it machined so it can be flip flopped side to side. . . . To me, this is a huge improvement as I can now see what is going on with the cutter and the toof. . . . I feel this would be a worthy modification for the company to make.



I think that it is great that you tried this, and hope that the manufacturer will take notice for the benefit of others!.

Rep sent.

Philbert


----------



## wsg

Well, curiosity got the best of me on this one. I had ordered one of these and it came in today! Just got done with a few chains and I can definitely say it works. I will be using this like others have said, to "correct" my chains at home after hand filing in the field. 

I have gotten it down fairly quick as far as setup only taking couple minutes. After that it's faster than my filing for sure, but I'm no master filer. I do come from a machinists background so I know a little about filing and how things should work. 

I can honestly say I like it a lot. Need to see how long before something wears out now. Lol


----------



## tolman_paul

Is there any thought of adding a provision to replace the hand crank with say a moto tool? Don't know if the time savings would be huge, but if you're sharpening chains in the shop seems like you might as well motorize the cutter. I've found carbide seems to cut best when spun fast.

Neat looking unit. Are the guides for the cutters aluminum or are they hardened? Seems like using a hardened drill busing inset into those bushings would make for an extremely long lasting tool.


----------



## bigbadbob

Finally!!!
And the burrs are at my cabin 2hrs away!!!!


----------



## memory

I would definitely like to have one of these tools but I really don't want to spend that much. Is there any other place to buy this item? For now, I will just stick to hand filing.


----------



## gtsawyer

Just picked up a Timberline unit from a fellow member - (thanks, btw!). He sent it with spurs for both the 3/8th and .325 chains.

The Timberline seems to be very nicely made, a definite improvement over the Gamn that I have. I can't wait to give it a shot on some of the .325 chain I have around now, which I've been putting off as most of my stuff is 3/8th. The carrying pouch is a very nice little extra too.

Benp's little modification looks like a good idea - not very much in the way of machining, and a cool extra feature.


----------



## dwraisor

tolman_paul said:


> Is there any thought of adding a provision to replace the hand crank with say a moto tool? Don't know if the time savings would be huge, but if you're sharpening chains in the shop seems like you might as well motorize the cutter. I've found carbide seems to cut best when spun fast.
> 
> Neat looking unit. Are the guides for the cutters aluminum or are they hardened? Seems like using a hardened drill busing inset into those bushings would make for an extremely long lasting tool.



Not sure that would be the best... The cutter has a taper and uses this to shorten your long cutters to be of the same length. It only takes about 5 cranks maybe to sharpen most cutters, the longest take more time as you need to ease in using the taper to cut it down to length, if you go to fast or push to hard, it will lift the guide off the bar. The cutter comes out of the handle easily (you can ordr differnt cutters) and could ne chucked in a drill or any 1/4" arbor type device, die -grinder, or other wise, I would think. 

The guides are aluminum.


dw


----------



## RFIsher

*Timberline vs. electric grinder*

Hello,

I've read through this entire thread today, and it is one of the more useful discussions I've seen in any forum.

I'm an amateur when it comes to chainsaws, but my brother and I have become the guys that our neighbors call when they have a smaller tree or stump to deal with, so we occasionally have chains to be sharpened. I don't mind sharpening tools by hand and prefer it over the delay in taking my tools to someone else to be sharpened (I sharpen my woodworking and woodturning tools myself).

The Timberline sounds impressive and it seems that it would be very hard to beat for field sharpening. However, if you had to choose one chain sharpening system, would it be something like the Timberline or would you choose an electric bench grinder such as this one from Garrett Wade:
Chainsaw Sharpener: Chain Saw Sharpener, Electric Chainsaw Chain Sharpener?

Their "Quick Feed" (i.e., bar-mounted) sharpener is currently on sale for about $75, so how would it compare to the Timberline (other than its obvious need for electricity)? 

I'm leaning toward the Timberline just for the sake of portability, but should I be?

Thank you


----------



## motofishman

Just ordered mine, website says I will have it next week. I'll let you know how it works for me.


----------



## benp

Last nite I sharpened my neighbor's 55 Rancher for him with the Timberline. It's wearing Oregon full chisel. 

After sharpening his saw I now noticed a difference in between chain brands (Oregon and Carlton/Windsor) that I really hadn't before concerning full chisel.

That Oregon chain turned out wicked nasty for me with the Timberline. I have NEVER been able to get it that good with my hand filing. 

Now, my Dolmars wear Carlton/Windsor full chisels as it's what my dealer has in bulk. 

When comparing the 2 brands the Oregon's top of the tooth is a perfect sharp angle 90. Mine are almost like a hybrid chisel/semichisel. They are sharp angled at the rear of the tooth but a little rounded towards the front. 

So, I feel this is what caused me to spout my assessment of the Timberline sharpens as well as the roller/file combo. 

A re-assessment is telling me that the Timberline does alot better my hand filing and it makes my quasi full chisel do pretty darn well. 

I am very pleased with this sharpener with the seat time I have on it. 

The company does need to machine that other notch in to at least have another option on how to do the other tooth. Plain and simple. 

One other issue I have found is that stop that goes behind the tooth is getting really chewed up. Anyone else's doing that?


----------



## blacklung65

Just ordered mine today. You can still get $15 off if you PM to Rockstock. Looks like 3- 5 days delivery.


----------



## Dozer Man

RFIsher said:


> Hello,
> 
> I've read through this entire thread today, and it is one of the more useful discussions I've seen in any forum.
> 
> I'm an amateur when it comes to chainsaws, but my brother and I have become the guys that our neighbors call when they have a smaller tree or stump to deal with, so we occasionally have chains to be sharpened. I don't mind sharpening tools by hand and prefer it over the delay in taking my tools to someone else to be sharpened (I sharpen my woodworking and woodturning tools myself).
> 
> The Timberline sounds impressive and it seems that it would be very hard to beat for field sharpening. However, if you had to choose one chain sharpening system, would it be something like the Timberline or would you choose an electric bench grinder such as this one from Garrett Wade:
> Chainsaw Sharpener: Chain Saw Sharpener, Electric Chainsaw Chain Sharpener?
> 
> Their "Quick Feed" (i.e., bar-mounted) sharpener is currently on sale for about $75, so how would it compare to the Timberline (other than its obvious need for electricity)?
> 
> I'm leaning toward the Timberline just for the sake of portability, but should I be?
> 
> Thank you



RFisher,
Just checked out the garrett wade webpage. I have to say, from watching the video, the electric grinder would be tempting for the money. Hopefully it's not a _"you get what you pay for"_ thing. Now understand this is coming from a guy that has never used an electric chain grinder, or even been around one for that matter. So take my opinion with a grain of salt, it could be a big piec-o-crap too. The one thing that has stuck in my mind ever since I read about it is _the sneeze factor._ With an electric chain grinder, you have to be extra careful that you don't accidently grind too much off...one mis-timed sneeze and you could ruin a good chain. It would be _very_ hard to ruin a chain with the timberline.

I can say from experience, I like the timberline. It brought my Stihl361 with a 20" half worn-out stihl full chisel chain back to pulling like new. That impressed me very much. Oh yeah, I forgot that I finally had to use my stihl660 w/36" bar. It also had a half worn-out stihl full chisel chain. But with a fresh timberling sharpening, which took a few times around the chain to get perfect (way to many times in the dirt LOL), it cut through a 30 inch hard maple stump just like a new chain. Again, I like my Timberline!! 

Just my $.02 fwiw.


----------



## creekbuster

I decided to get the Garrett grinder also due to the sale price. There is a lot of plastic on their grinder so beware. It does work as I got the quick advance model also. Getting the grinding wheel to hit and cut under the top plate took some time. The motor has plenty of torque for a small motor. I have been on the fence on returning it as I also picked up the timberline sharpener also.
The bench grinder is faster once you get it all setup compared to the timberline but you also have to remove the chain.
The timberline seems to hit the tooth perfectly once you get it all setup. It also takes time to learn and I'm still doing that.
The two holding screws seem to be my biggest issue in getting the timberline tight on the chain bar and hold it. It is very quick once you have it all setup for using it in the field. I have never used any other bench grinder so I wonder if a Oregon grinder would be easier. Keep in mind I used a file for years and just started using a grinder and the timberline so I don't have much experience.
I carry three to four extra sharp chains for both my saws so that lead me to want a bench grinder 
Good luck


----------



## Philbert

RFIsher said:


> However, if you had to choose one chain sharpening system, would it be something like the Timberline or would you choose an electric bench grinder such as this one from Garrett Wade . . .



First: Welcome to A.S.!

There are many ways to sharpen a chain. Personal preferences, skill, cost, workspace, etc. all factor in to this decision. You have to find a system that works for you. This usually means trying a few things, or having someone show you something that makes sense.

My main chain sharpening system is an electric bench grinder, but it cost substantially more than the plastic one you referenced, and it is a totally different tool. I like it and it works for me. If your budget is more modest, other options should be explored.

I have not tried the Timberline sharpener, but from comments in this thread, some of it's advantages seem to be: modest investment ($100 +/-), small to carry or store, don't need a shop or electricity, usable in the field or at home, repeatable results, etc. 

Disadvantages . . .?



Dozer Man said:


> The one thing that has stuck in my mind ever since I read about it is _the sneeze factor._ With an electric chain grinder, you have to be extra careful that you don't accidently grind too much off...one mis-timed sneeze and you could ruin a good chain.



Not a realistic factor. If your sneezes are that devastating, what could happen when you are holding a running a chainsaw or driving a car?



creekbuster said:


> The bench grinder is faster once you get it all setup compared to the timberline but you also have to remove the chain. . . I have never used any other bench grinder so I wonder if a Oregon grinder would be easier. . . I carry three to four extra sharp chains for both my saws so that lead me to want a bench grinder.



Nice to have a side-by-side comparison. Good point also about the difference between on-the-saw-sharpening and bench sharpening.

If you only have one chain for your saw, tools like the Timberline, or periodic file touch ups can work. A lot of people also like the Granberg File-N-Joint for about $30 (LINK: Bailey's - Granberg File-N-Joint Precision Filing Guide). I tried the Oregon version when I first started sharpening my chains and got very good results and it helped me to develop filing skills. It was relatively slow, but I only had one or two chains to sharpen so that was not a big issue. These tools also work off of the saw if you chuck a spare (or scrap) bar in a vise and mount the chain and tool on that.

The Oregon 511A grinder that I use is faster to set up and to sharpen multiple chains. It uses larger diameter wheels and has a more powerful motor, which is especially helpful when cleaning up a 'rocked' chain (but not so powerful that it will cut my chain in half if I sneeze!).

Philbert


----------



## Dozer Man

Philbert said:


> Not a realistic factor. If your sneezes are that devastating, what could happen when you are holding a running a chainsaw or driving a car?
> 
> 
> 
> Nice to have a side-by-side comparison. Good point also about the difference between on-the-saw-sharpening and bench sharpening.
> 
> 
> The Oregon 511A grinder that I use is faster to set up and to sharpen multiple chains. It uses larger diameter wheels and has a more powerful motor, which is especially helpful when cleaning up a 'rocked' chain (but not so powerful that it will cut my chain in half if I sneeze!).
> 
> Philbert




.

Question about the Oregon 511A...does it have a presettable "mechanical stop" to keep the cut depth uniform?? Or does it keep grinding until you quit pushing. Just curious because the Garrett looked like it will just keep grinding. If all chain sharpening grinders have a mechanical stop for the cut "depth"(not talking about the chain stop) well then I plead ignorance. Obviously you didn't see the comedy in the "sneeze factor" (someone elses words, not mine). Btw, when I feel a sneeze coming on I will stop sawing, but I won't pull my truck over, so beware LOL. I definately had no intentions to slam all grinder sharpeners. I bought the timberline as a inexpensive alternative to an Oregon grinder, that doesn't mean I don't want the grinder.


----------



## Philbert

Dozer Man said:


> Question about the Oregon 511A...does it have a presettable "mechanical stop" to keep the cut depth uniform??



Yes. Most chain grinders, apparently aside from the el-cheapo type, have adjustable stops for positioning each cutter and for the depth to which the wheel will grind. These need to be adjusted for the chain, and for grinding wheel wear. This feature can also be used to lower the chains' depth gauges.

That does not mean that they are all accurate, that they will not move, that Right and Left cutters are automatically ground the same, etc. Part of this has to do with the quality of the grinder and the initial set up and/or adjustment. Some vises need to be centered, some are self-centering, etc.



Dozer Man said:


> Obviously you didn't see the comedy in the "sneeze factor" (someone elses words, not mine).



There is an unreasonable bias against chain grinders on A.S. It would not surprise me that someone would suggest such a thing.

A chain grinder is not automatic (except the multi-thousand dollar automatic ones, which are). They cannot just be used like a chop saw. People who do not take the time to learn how to use them, and to develop some skill with them, can ruin chains, which leads some people to think that chain grinders are bad. Just as if someone runs their new STIHL chain into a rock and ruins it does not make their MS660 'bad', it is the fault of the operator.



Dozer Man said:


> I bought the timberline as a inexpensive alternative to an Oregon grinder, that doesn't mean I don't want the grinder.



I have not used the Timberline, but it looks like it works for some people. It does not mean that you only have to have one method. I have files and guides for use in the field or for touch ups. The Timberline could be something you keep and use in the field, or when you are away from electricity, or when you are somewhere where you don't want to make a lot of noise or dust (at home when the baby is sleeping). It might be all that you need. Watch for sales (Bailey's periodically has their Speed Sharp grinder on sale for $300) or keep an eye out for a good used grinder in the meantime.

Philbert


----------



## FlyLow

What size are you guys using with stihl rsc 7/32 or 13/64? I read all 20 pages and didn't see if the timberline recommended 13/64 is the same as what's recommended around here.


----------



## creekbuster

Timberline offer three file sizes when you order.

7/32
3/16
5/32


The Garrett does have a depth stop that is one of the many adjustment to can set.


----------



## deye223

creekbuster said:


> Timberline offer three file sizes when you order.
> 
> 7/32
> 3/16
> 5/32
> 
> 
> The Garrett does have a depth stop that is one of the many adjustment to can set.



he has just added 13/64 as well


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## memory

I am really tempted to buy this after reading how everybody loves it. I just feel that I am not doing a good job hand filing. My question is how many times can you sharpen a chain before the cutters wear out? And when they do wear out, where can you buy replacements? Sorry if this has already been answered.

Is there any other place to buy this from?


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## MacLaren

memory said:


> I am really tempted to buy this after reading how everybody loves it. I just feel that I am not doing a good job hand filing. My question is how many times can you sharpen a chain before the cutters wear out? And when they do wear out, where can you buy replacements? Sorry if this has already been answered.
> 
> Is there any other place to buy this from?



If you are talkin about the Timberline, then you will get a whole lot of use out of the carbide tip. Prolly 30+ sharpenings. Maybee more. You can get replacements from them for only 10 bucks if memory serves.


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## memory

Yes I am talking about the Timberline. What I have seen from their website is you have to buy the whole kit. I did not see an option to buy just the cutters. And if replacements only costs $10, then why do they cost $20 when you buy the whole kit?


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## FlyLow

Maclaren was going off memory.... yes they cost $20 each. click the order tab and you will see. www.timberlinesharpener.com


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## gtsawyer

They sell just the cutters - I just purchased 4 of them.

Poke around the website a bit more and you can see them. Don't try to use any discount codes - the code may work, but your order will be rejected. (I almost bought $20 worth of cutters for $5. _almost_)


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## memory

I was able to find the cutters and they are $20 a piece. 

I know Rockstock was giving out promo codes for $30 off a while back. Is it still possible I could get a hold of this code? I have sent him a PM but has not responded.


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## Majorpayne

I have one with both sets of guides and 7/32 and 5/32 cutters that I would sell.


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## Gologit

Now that most of you have some time on the sharpener, how do you like it?


----------



## Sawin

*Thats my story,..*

...and I'm sticking to it. See post #203.

I also have made the minor mod. of the groove for adjusting pawl screw on the utter side. The more I use the rig, the more I like it.

Of course, keep in mind that the only way for me to cut wood these days is to load up on painkillers first, (Fibromyalgia, etc.). So most of the time I am a happy wood cutter.:msp_drool:

OT: I do feel lucky to be able to move around, and do most of what I want to. If''n I croak in the woods, I'll be ok with it. And.... I'm pretty, well..hmmm....almost confident that my wife will twitch me out the next morning.


----------



## MacLaren

Gologit said:


> Now that most of you have some time on the sharpener, how do you like it?



Bob, I love it. It's perfect for someone like me IMHO. It give a perfect factory finish IMO. It's easy to use and very well made. The carbide tip will give many,many sharpenings. Replacements at only $10 are a huge plus IMO. You can use it anywhere. So yes, I have been very well pleased with it and would certainly recommend it to anyone.


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## Dozer Man

It works good for me. I definately like it. It's easily paid for itself already.


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## nixon

MacLaren said:


> Bob, I love it. It's perfect for someone like me IMHO. It give a perfect factory finish IMO. It's easy to use and very well made. The carbide tip will give many,many sharpenings. Replacements at only $10 are a huge plus IMO. You can use it anywhere. So yes, I have been very well pleased with it and would certainly recommend it to anyone.



I'm pleased with mine as well. It's simple to use, and does an excellent job of sharpening .
I believe that the carbide bits are $20 ,and the angle guides are$10 .


----------



## MacLaren

nixon said:


> I'm pleased with mine as well. It's simple to use, and does an excellent job of sharpening .
> I believe that the carbide bits are $20 ,and the angle guides are$10 .



Thats right. Thanks for correcting me. But still even at $20, thats a plus IMO.


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## blacklung65

I finally got a chance to use the timberline on an old chain that wouldn't cut hot butter. It took me about 20 minutes to set it up and sharpen the chain. I took it out and tested it on some seasoned elm (it's been down 6 years). It worked perfect. Just like a new chain. This was a great investment.


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## kstill361

From what I can see , it looks like it keeps the gullet cleaned out with each sharpening?


----------



## half_full

Just curious, anyone have a chain count on the carbide? I just ordered a few diff. sizes and one more 7/32. The one I got with the original purchase has approx. 15 chains sharpened now. Some 18", 20" and 24". I noticed a chip in my original carbide so I figured I'll compare it to a new one and see how it's holding up.


----------



## Sawin

I've probably done 25+- chains. Probably 6 or so older chains that had to be gone over a few times to bring up to snuff. A couple were "rocked". Anyway, I have not noticed any difference in the carbide.

I started out trying to take too much off at a time, and have some build up in the low spots of the bit. Can't seem to get it out, and it doesn't seem to bother anything. I have graduated to taking very little off a good chain, and much less when trying to recondition an old chain. Just more go-rounds.

These chains were all 20", .325 and .375.

So, I'd say the bits are holding up just swell.


----------



## nixon

Sawin said:


> I've probably done 25+- chains. Probably 6 or so older chains that had to be gone over a few times to bring up to snuff. A couple were "rocked". Anyway, I have not noticed any difference in the carbide.
> So, I'd say the bits are holding up just swell.



So far I've done around 30 chains .So far the original cutter is doing well , other then My turning it backwards during a brain fade moment . The real key here is patience . Just take Your time .


----------



## nick 55

I got mine today from Major Payne. It is a neat unit, and I am really impressed with the construction and the quality. One question though, how do you guys space the tool up evenly so the cutters don't catch inside the slot of the tool? Do you slide a thin shim in on top of the cutters?

Nick


----------



## half_full

nick 55 said:


> I got mine today from Major Payne. It is a neat unit, and I am really impressed with the construction and the quality. One question though, how do you guys space the tool up evenly so the cutters don't catch inside the slot of the tool? Do you slide a thin shim in on top of the cutters?
> 
> Nick



Rest the tool on the bar, insert cutter into tooth and lightly tighten one knob, the the other. Pull cutter and run chain through. If it gets stuck I bring the tool up very slightly. I did have to file the slot because I caught a tooth and tried to pull it through. The very tiny gouge was enough to catch.


----------



## nick 55

I spent a few more minutes reading the directions the other day(sans alcohol) and I finally understood English. Of course, I had to flip the directions over because I was reading the Spanish side before(again, alcohol inspired). I got the tool set up, then I looked at the chain specs and had to change out the angle inserts as I needed a 25° instead of 30°. Once I figured all that out, then the sharpening went very smooth. On Monday I ordered a 3/16" carbide from Timberline and it arrived yesterday. Very fast shipping, and I didn't pay a penny over the $20 for the carbide, no discount codes. I had a few minutes this afternoon so I grabbed a .325" saw and set the tool up and had the chain sharpened in 8-10 minutes. While I could see I did pretty good with a freehand file, I was able to see I was putting too much angle on the left side cutters. This tool really does help you visualize the errors you make by freehand filing. I like it a lot, and my only nitpick is that I would like to see is a 1/8" Allen wrench included for the angle inserts, but that's a pretty small nitpick.

Two thumbs up here,
Nick


----------



## SierraWoodsman

*Accuracy Perfected!*

My Timberline Sharpener Just arrived yesterday and today was the first chance I got it to try the tool out.
I've got to say that I had my reservations concerning this sharpener as the price did seem a bit high, but the many great reviews on this site was enough to convince me, combined with the fact that I know that most of you have seen their fair share of gimmick sharpeners and would not endorse anything but a high quality product.
After today I've got to say that it's money very well spent. The Accuracy to is achievable with this sharpener is nothing short of amazing. Like a lot of you I quickly learned that trying to remove too much material too fast does not work well.
Also like many of you who have tried it I quickly realized that good job filing that I thought I was doing was not so great after all!
The Mirror polished razor edge you can get is Awesome! I Don’t think you can get a perfectly sharpened, mirror polished edge on cutter tooth with any kind of file or grinder that I’ve ever seen. If you’re a Perfectionist this is the tool for you.

View attachment 234742
View attachment 234743
View attachment 234744


----------



## KiwiBro

Holey Guacamole, Batman. $125? Does it make the coffee in the mornings too? Think I'll stick with imperfect but cheap hand filing and now have 125 more reasons to take more care with the hand file, or $125 dollars towards a decent grinder.


----------



## MacLaren

KiwiBro said:


> Holey Guacamole, Batman. $125? Does it make the coffee in the mornings too? Think I'll stick with imperfect but cheap hand filing and now have 125 more reasons to take more care with the hand file, or $125 dollars towards a decent grinder.



It does just as good of job as my "decent" Silvey.........


----------



## KiwiBro

MacLaren said:


> It does just as good of job as my "decent" Silvey.........



Thanks for that. Silveys are supposed to be very good grinders. How long is this tool going to take compared to a grinder please (including raker setting by hand if this tool won't do it like a grinder will) if I have a few chains each day to knock back into shape?

And how long do those grinding bits last please?


I'm wondering if it might be a more versatile one-sharpener fits all tool than hand file in field + grinder at home.


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## MacLaren

Naturally the grinder is faster. The bits last a long time.


----------



## Chris75

I've got one of these and have a couple of issues with it.

1. It doesn't make the cutters the same length on both sides as it is advertised to do. I have to do one side and then adjust for the the other. Not too big of a deal as it's only one adjustment and a check of the tooth length. I can live with this.

2. As the cutter wears it gets lower but the file(carbide cutter in the sharpener) doesn't have a depth adjustment. I've noticed that on the chains that I've sharpened a few times there is almost no hook on the cutters as it sits too high on the tooth. The only way around this that I can see is to set it up, remove the file, and then try and adjust it down a little bit.

Can anyone help? Am I doing something wrong?


----------



## Bluefish

Anyone have an answer for this? I am right on the edge of ordering one of these. Thanks, Russ


----------



## SierraWoodsman

*How to address the Low Hook cutter issue when using the Timberline sharpener.*



Bluefish said:


> Anyone have an answer for this? I am right on the edge of ordering one of these. Thanks, Russ



I could see this possibly happening if your not paying attention or if you try to take off too much material to fast or both. I agree the carbide will have a tendancy to "climb"
up the cutter resulting in a low hook cutter if too much pressure is applied to the back of the tooth. In my experiance in getting used to the tool this will happen a time or two, But when it does it's pretty obvious and easy to correct.

I have not found the problem with the cutters not being "un-even". In fact I think the cutters are closer to being "even" now than they have ever dreamed of 
being when I was hand fileing and thus resulting in a very smooth/fast cutting chain.

I'm not as profecient as the guy doing the video is, but found it quite easy to get the hang of this tool. I would recommend getting the 13/64 carbide as well because you will
get better performance as the chain gets near end of life (about 2/3) through the useable length of the cutter due to the natural taper of the cutter .

I think you'll like it Russ. It works as advertisted provided you take heed to the instructions.

Here's the video link:Instruction- Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener - YouTube


----------



## Chris75

Just to clarify, the carbide isn't climbing as I sharpen.
There is nothing on the tool to set the depth. The tool is positioned level using the existing depth to set it. As the cutter wears, the depth stays at the same level but due to the taper of the cutter, the depth of the carbide actually reduces. This is only noticeable once the chain has been sharpened a few times.

I overcome this by setting it up, removing the carbide and dropping the tool a touch. I don't see any other way around it. Don't get me wrong, apart from the 2 problems I listed above, it sharpens the cutters near perfect.


----------



## bert0168

Chris75 said:


> Just to clarify, the carbide isn't climbing as I sharpen.
> There is nothing on the tool to set the depth. The tool is positioned level using the existing depth to set it. As the cutter wears, the depth stays at the same level but due to the taper of the cutter, the depth of the carbide actually reduces. This is only noticeable once the chain has been sharpened a few times.
> 
> I overcome this by setting it up, removing the carbide and dropping the tool a touch. I don't see any other way around it. Don't get me wrong, apart from the 2 problems I listed above, it sharpens the cutters near perfect.



I'm not sure I see how that's possible. If the chain starts out even, it shouldn't matter if the cutter is worn a bit. Once you set it on the first tooth, the cutter should rest the same height in each tooth, regardless of the diameter of the cutter. Unless the chain is rocked, I can't see how the depth would vary from tooth to tooth. And if it is rocked bad, there's no way your going to get the teeth even on one go round.

Besides that, the cutters are only tapered on the first portion of the tip and uniform in the actual cutting surface. If your getting a taper or groove on the actual cutting portion when the bit is all the way in then you sharpen a heck of a lot of chain, the cutter is at the end of its service life and it's probably time for a new cutter.


----------



## Chris75

Sorry, you must be misinterpreting my post. 
When I said the taper on the tooth, I meant the angle of the top of the tooth from front to rear. 
Here is a dodgy paint effort to try and explain better.


----------



## Preston

This tool truely looks incredibly functional. I know also that with 500 sets of eyes looking at it, each pair is looking at something different. So the nitpicking begins. But I do have three question about it.

One is with the grinding tips fitting into the alignment bushings, when the tooth is finished and the tip is pulled out for the next grind, does the filings get into the guide and could they cause premature wear?

Second is how is the length of each tooth kept the same? I've always been careful to keep the number of file strokes the same to account for this.

Third is the flipper stop looks as though it would be the first thing to wear for a replacement. How is this parts make for ease of replacement, or is it meant to be replaced?

I sure like the looks of and the edge results. Very nice. :msp_smile:


----------



## SierraWoodsman

Chris75 said:


> Sorry, you must be misinterpreting my post.
> When I said the taper on the tooth, I meant the angle of the top of the tooth from front to rear.
> Here is a dodgy paint effort to try and explain better.



I understand what your saying. 
That's why I recommend both 7/32 and 13/64 not absolutly nessessary, but works better once the cutters are 2/3 or more through there life.


----------



## benp

Preston said:


> This tool truely looks incredibly functional. I know also that with 500 sets of eyes looking at it, each pair is looking at something different. So the nitpicking begins. But I do have three question about it.
> 
> One is with the grinding tips fitting into the alignment bushings, when the tooth is finished and the tip is pulled out for the next grind, does the filings get into the guide and could they cause premature wear?
> 
> Second is how is the length of each tooth kept the same? I've always been careful to keep the number of file strokes the same to account for this.
> 
> Third is the flipper stop looks as though it would be the first thing to wear for a replacement. How is this parts make for ease of replacement, or is it meant to be replaced?
> 
> I sure like the looks of and the edge results. Very nice. :msp_smile:



The length of the tooth is determined by how the stop is set. You can turn and turn until your hearts desire with the crank of the cutter but it will only take xx amount off the tooth. 

Its a pin holding the flipper/pawl in the stop. Pop the pin out, replace pawl, and reinsert pin. I actually have a new pawl here waiting to go in. My original looks like a gopher got after it.

I just contacted Timberline about replacement parts and they gave me instructions on how to order them. 

Excellent folks to deal with and if something messes up in your order they do their darnedest to make it right.


----------



## Bluefish

I read every post. I watched the video on the website. I want one. A lot of people I respect on here have one and I am going to join the club. Thanks guys, Russ


----------



## Preston

Thanks Ben. That does it for me. :msp_smile:


----------



## half_full

Some will love this tool. Some will tolerate it. Some may even consider it trash. I've used it to sharpen many loops and it serves me very well. Don't expect to get everything perfect the first time you use it. Tinker with it and you can make it work for you.

Some observations:
Once you tighten the screws to mount this on the bar pull the cutter back out and make sure you can spin the chain all the way around. I try to get mine low in the tooth for the reason mentioned above about tooth shape and have had a tooth catch about half way through and had to readjust. 

Don't try to do the job in one pass if the chain is really dull or rocked. It is so much easier to run through a few light passes than fight through trying to get it done in one pass. If you maintain the chain as frequently as you should it will be a one pass touch up.

I have run across a few chains that were sharpened by a grinder and it's difficult to use the carbide in these. You'll know what I mean when you are lucky enough to fight with one of these. I use the dremel with the sharpening stone on it to get the shape right. Then sharpen with the carbide.


----------



## dwraisor

Preston said:


> This tool truely looks incredibly functional. I know also that with 500 sets of eyes looking at it, each pair is looking at something different. So the nitpicking begins. But I do have three question about it.
> 
> One is with the grinding tips fitting into the alignment bushings, when the tooth is finished and the tip is pulled out for the next grind, does the filings get into the guide and could they cause premature wear?
> 
> Second is how is the length of each tooth kept the same? I've always been careful to keep the number of file strokes the same to account for this.
> 
> Third is the flipper stop looks as though it would be the first thing to wear for a replacement. How is this parts make for ease of replacement, or is it meant to be replaced?
> 
> I sure like the looks of and the edge results. Very nice. :msp_smile:




1) Yes some filings could end up in the bushing, simply blow them out... no big deal.
2) The backstop keeps the cutters all aligned the same. You will find that if you set it on your shortest cutter, it may not even make it into the longest cutter, depending on how far off they are. What I did was use the tapered part of the cutter to begin the shortening process. Make a few turns of the cutter w/ the tapper section and slowly push in until the true cutter size is in the tooth. You will feel when the cutter is sharp, and the same length as the carbide spins much more freely.
3) While I do not think, it would wear out, as there is no pressure on it as you drag the chain under. It does come out easily, so you could replace it, but their site does list it as a separate piece. I guess if you call, they will provide one for you.

Also just noticed mention of the 13/64" carbide cutter, they did not have this size when I ordered mine, and is why I held off for so long. All my files etc. were 13/64" and did not want to change over.... I just ordered that size cutter.


dw


----------



## Preston

Thanks. I will be getting one of those sharpners.


----------



## Meatco1

Well, I'm interested, and tried to enter all the discount codes with none working. Is there a working discount code at this time? 

I've been hand sharpening for a lot of years, and it never fails that one side of my chains are filed down a lot more than the other side. 

Respects,

Richard


----------



## benp

I installed the new pawl yesterday. I just used a small drill bit as the punch and then repressed the pin back in with a vise. 

I also put in the 13/64 cutter and tried that. 

Oh man, I tell you what. It was like cutting butter. 

So, I dont know if that was from a new cutter or the 13/64 size. 

I seemed to knock out an 84dl chain rather quick.

Again, a good product and a good company with really good customer service.


----------



## Currently

Curse you all! :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Well this is my review. The unit came in today and I was very impressed with the quality of it. I had a rocked chain on the right-hand side and that was the first chain that I sharpened.

Five minutes into the job I got very frustrated because of the slow going. Then I had a brainstorm, that's always dangerous. I have a 9.6 volt semi retired Makita two speed drill. I inserted the bit in the drill, and started using tool with enormous success. At low speed the drill does a good job pretty much identical to the crank handle. 

It did take longer to sharpen this chain but it did a very good job. The cut was polished and the edges were sharp. One thing that I really enjoyed using this tool and was not expecting was the fact that you could see the glint and how much to sharpen to remove the glint from the tooth. With a good light over my right shoulder you could see the edge of the tooth being ground and know when to stop.

The tool does not seem to work well with a worn-out bar, but with a fairly new bar the teeth are well supported and the tool works as designed. Quite impressive,actually!

This tool is definitely a keeper especially with my cordless electric drill. Please remember that this drill turns very slowly. The speed at the low setting is comparable to the handcrank. I did not and will not use the high speed selector on the drill. 

Oh ... I lubed the shaft and guide holes with DuPont Teflon spray to minimize wear and stop the squealing from it not being broken in. At the end of the second chain it was operating soundlessly and smoothly. 

Curious to find out how the chain will handle those little metal shavings ...

Another unexpected plus is the tool in its high quality case fits into the Stihl plastic carry case by the saw throttle. How much more can you ask for?


----------



## hammer0419

Just placed my order for a Timberline system, extra 3/16" cutter and the 25/35 bushing. Can't wait for it to show up. Even got a nice $25 off Promo code!!!


----------



## hammer0419

Came home today to my new Timberline Sharpening system. Very impressive quality. Can not wait to try it out tomorrow.


----------



## SierraWoodsman

benp said:


> I installed the new pawl yesterday. I just used a small drill bit as the punch and then repressed the pin back in with a vise.
> 
> I also put in the 13/64 cutter and tried that.
> 
> Oh man, I tell you what. It was like cutting butter.
> 
> So, I dont know if that was from a new cutter or the 13/64 size.
> 
> I seemed to knock out an 84dl chain rather quick.
> 
> Again, a good product and a good company with really good customer service.



The 13/64" does make'm cut like "butter" doesen't it? 

I believe the primary reason for increased cutting performance on the 13/64 carbide is due to slightly more agressive cutter geometry of top and side plates, But you have too keep in mind there are always "trade-offs" in Edge-Durability VS. Cutting Performance.

In the sharpening of Chisel bit chain the following applies In my experience Whether your using this tool or a file: If your using 3/8" Stihl RSC-you can use the 13/64 carbide from "new cutter" through "End of Life" and achieve better cutting performance throughout the life of the chain without the consequence of decreased durability. This is primarily because of the slightly shorter cutter "height". This is why Stihl recommends the 13/64 file on 3/8" RSC.

3/8" Oregon Chisel has a "taller" cutter, so your better sticking with 7/32" carbide until approx 1/3 cutter length left, then switch to 13/64" carbide to maitain high performance. By then the cutter height has decreased due to cutter slope. Using the 13/64 carbide too early on with new Oregon Chisel (such as LGX) will result in an aggressive, but excessively "Thin-Fragile" cutter-edge. It will cut like a "son-of-a-beach", but usually only for a short time. This is why Oregon recommends 7/32"

I didn't realize there was even a difference between the two types until putting the two brands cutters side by side and looking at them closely. I Have to give credit to "sawtroll" for helping me to understand the differences. I could tell the it made an improvment in performance, but didn't understand the reasons why.... Thanks ST

In using this sharpener I only wish that Timberline would have gone with a "Harder-more Wear resistant" material for the Guides. Mine haven't gotten sloppy yet, but I know the potential is there with soft aluminum as the material. At least the guides are inexpensive and easily replaced should they eventually wear out-"Keeping them well oiled should help a lot". 

Overall I'm very pleased with the tool. 

My 2 Cents.


----------



## hammer0419

Yesterday I had the chance to sharpen 2 chains and use them. The 2 chains I sharpened were in some rough shape after I butchered them with a grinder (boy did I suck with that machine!!). It took me a little to get things going smooth because my chains were so messed up and uneven. However, the Timberline Sharpener brought these chains back to life. I am VERY impressed with the results I got. Now that my chains are all even and cleaned up from using the Timberline, future sharpening should be a breeze. I ordered an extra sharpener but if these are quality carbide, they should last a very long time. The Timberline sharpener is a winner!!!


----------



## Somesawguy

How long are you guys finding that the carbide cutters hold up?


----------



## hammer0419

Somesawguy said:


> How long are you guys finding that the carbide cutters hold up?



I have not used it enough to tell. However, If it is made from a quality Tungsten Carbide it should last a LONG time. I am a part time knifemaker and use several carbide tools and they last an amazingly long time. Having experience with carbide I would expect to sharpen 100+ chains easly with 1 cutter. I did buy an extra cutters with my kit and would expect to sharpen a TON of chains with it. Reguardless......I really really like this system!!!!


----------



## rwoods

My Timberline came in the mail today.  Thanks to all the posts, other than the fact that my SUV tailgate was a little too low for my back I had no problem sharpening 3 chains on 3 saws (two never re-sharpened and one that had seen my grinder a time or two). I did have a little trouble setting it up on an old bar I had inserted in a vice on the work bench but I got it sorted out okay and sharpened a loose loop. The work bench height was must easier on my back. I believe I'll be pleased with the results and that with practice things can only get better. Also with a little practice, I think it could be practical for touch ups in the field. It appears that if you can sharpen a pencil in a crank sharpener you should be able to use this device well. Ron


----------



## rwoods

*First run*

Today I used all three saws that I had sharpened the mounted chains with the Timberline. I have to say that I was more than pleased. I sharpen a couple of chains last night with my vice mounted bar but I was still having clearance troubles that I didn't experience on the saw mounted bars. I am not sure if it is the bar or me. I did note three other things: One, the shavings got all over my thumb and fingers and before I was done many were embedded in me - too small to see but big enough to be a nusiance - some redded up by morning and I was able to dig them out with my pocket knife. I hate wearing gloves to operate it but worst comes to worse, I will. Two, as noted by others a rocked chain is sharpened best with more than one pass. Three, also as noted by others, the reach of the bit varies between the two cutter sides; I like the longer reach better so I may modify mine, if I can, to be able to swap the jig to the other side. It looks like an easy modification. I may see or I may just get over it. Ron


----------



## Philbert

rwoods said:


> . . . the shavings got all over my thumb and fingers and before I was done many were embedded in me - too small to see but big enough to be a nusiance - some redded up by morning and I was able to dig them out with my pocket knife. I hate wearing gloves to operate it . . .



Maybe try some thin latex or nitrile surgical type gloves to shed the shavings, but let you keep the dexterity. They should hold up, and are pretty cheap compared to the annoyance of slivers.

Philbert


----------



## benp

rwoods said:


> Today I used all three saws that I had sharpened the mounted chains with the Timberline. I have to say that I was more than pleased. I sharpen a couple of chains last night with my vice mounted bar but I was still having clearance troubles that I didn't experience on the saw mounted bars. I am not sure if it is the bar or me. I did note three other things: One, the shavings got all over my thumb and fingers and before I was done many were embedded in me - too small to see but big enough to be a nusiance - some redded up by morning and I was able to dig them out with my pocket knife. I hate wearing gloves to operate it but worst comes to worse, I will. Two, as noted by others a rocked chain is sharpened best with more than one pass. Three, also as noted by others, the reach of the bit varies between the two cutter sides; I like the longer reach better so I may modify mine, *if I can, to be able to swap the jig to the other side. It looks like an easy modification*. I may see or I may just get over it. Ron



It's an easy mod. I had my machinist friend cut this in.







Interesting on the shrapnel you are picking up. I have had zero issues with that. 

One thing I have noticed was that my original angle guides were getting a touch warbly. 

So, I swapped in the 25/35 guides that I had. It did tighten things up a bit but something just aint quite a right especially because I am flipping the jig around. 

I WISH they would mark one side or the other of the 25/35 guide to denote which angle it is. 

Also, I think my last 7/32 cutter they sent isn't 7/32. It is taking quite a bit of sharpening before I am even able to touch up the angle of the top of the tooth. My last sharpening I did 4x per side and still wasn't really getting into the top of the tooth at all yet. That's been my biggest issue to date. 

It might be from going from hand filed to the timberline but it shouldn't be that huge of a difference in my opinion. 

Anyways, gonna keep at it.:msp_smile:


----------



## rwoods

Philbert said:


> Maybe try some thin latex or nitrile surgical type gloves to shed the shavings, but let you keep the dexterity. They should hold up, and are pretty cheap compared to the annoyance of slivers.
> 
> Philbert



I have some latex gloves in the shop but I wasn't sure if they would be tough enough - worth a try though. Thanks. I asked a fellow woodcutter today, a machinist, what he would recommend; he said some type of cotten gloves with a coating on the grip side. He was going to show me a pair but things got busy down at the wood lot so we didn't get around to it. Ron



benp said:


> *It's an easy mod. I had my machinist friend cut this in.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting on the shrapnel you are picking up. I have had zero issues with that.
> 
> One thing I have noticed was that my original angle guides were getting a touch warbly.
> 
> So, I swapped in the 25/35 guides that I had. It did tighten things up a bit but something just aint quite a right especially because I am flipping the jig around.
> 
> I WISH they would mark one side or the other of the 25/35 guide to denote which angle it is.
> 
> Also, I think my last 7/32 cutter they sent isn't 7/32. It is taking quite a bit of sharpening before I am even able to touch up the angle of the top of the tooth. My last sharpening I did 4x per side and still wasn't really getting into the top of the tooth at all yet. That's been my biggest issue to date.
> 
> It might be from going from hand filed to the timberline but it shouldn't be that huge of a difference in my opinion.
> 
> Anyways, gonna keep at it.:msp_smile:



That's what I was thinking. My machinist friend seemed intrigued by my description of the sharpener so I'll just have to drop by his shop with it. Any special parts in the stop? A spring maybe? If not, it seemed to me that a spring loaded stop could be used to place constant pressure on the cutter instead of just relying on the beginning taper. Anything else I need to know? Thanks a bunch. FWIW I am sharpening Stihl chains and using the 13/64 cutter. Ron


----------



## benp

rwoods said:


> I have some latex gloves in the shop but I wasn't sure if they would be tough enough - worth a try though. Thanks. I asked a fellow woodcutter today, a machinist, what he would recommend; he said some type of cotten gloves with a coating on the grip side. He was going to show me a pair but things got busy down at the wood lot so we didn't get around to it. Ron
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I was thinking. My machinist friend seemed intrigued by my description of the sharpener so I'll just have to drop by his shop with it. * Any special parts in the stop?* A spring maybe? If not, it seemed to me that a spring loaded stop could be used to place constant pressure on the cutter instead of just relying on the beginning taper. Anything else I need to know? Thanks a bunch. FWIW I am sharpening Stihl chains and using the 13/64 cutter. Ron



Nope. 

3 pieces. The block that rides in the jig, pawl, and roll pin that attaches the pawl to the block. 

That's it. The pawl is replaceable.


----------



## Eccentric

Ron do you have a Costco or Harbor Freight near you? Get some nitrile gloves from them. Much tougher than latex, and they don't bug the skin. The first three years of my job had me wearing latex gloves for much of the day............almost every day. Developed a mild allergy to the proteins in the latex. Now we have nitrile gloves and there's no issue. The nitrile gloves hold up much better too...


----------



## Philbert

Eccentric said:


> Ron do you have a Costco or Harbor Freight near you? Get some nitrile gloves from them.



You can find basic nitrile gloves at almost any large drug store or pharmacy department (Walgreens, CVS, Target, Walmart, etc.). Safety supply vendors will carry higher grade ones that hold up better, but the basic ones should be fine for this. I use them more and more to keep from having to scrub gunk off my hands after working on stuff or when using certain glues, lubricants, cleaners, etc.

Philbert


----------



## rwoods

Thanks, guys. I'll check it out. Ron


----------



## benp

rwoods said:


> I have some latex gloves in the shop but I wasn't sure if they would be tough enough - worth a try though. Thanks. * I asked a fellow woodcutter today, a machinist, what he would recommend; he said some type of cotten gloves with a coating on the grip side. He was going to show me a pair but things got busy down at the wood lot so we didn't get around to it.* Ron



Ron, 

I "believe" these are what he was talking about. 

They are safety gloves, at least the ones I have. The all gray ones fabric are cut proof dyneema then dipped. I cannot remember if the blue/gray ones are dyneema or not. 





















For certain applications these gloves are great. 

The day I took the pics of the blue ones was after 4 wheeling all day and handling crappy old winch cable majority of the day. If you are familiar with winch cable you know how nasty it can get especially after being used and abused for years on end. 

They held up great and when my hands got wet, ie "submerged", they dried out yesterday. 

I think these would work just fine for sharpening as the dexterity is there.


----------



## penningp

*My prayers have been answered*

I received the Timberline sharpener for my birthday from my wife (I had to oreder it myself). What can I say - the thing just simply works.

Thank you Timberline!

does anyone know how stable the company is? should I buy more cutters now or are they going to be in business for awhile?


----------



## Officer's Match

Really tempted to try one of these myself. Are there any AS discounts still being offered?


----------



## penningp

Call the company - they will give you a discount code! They gave me 20.00 off!


----------



## Officer's Match

penningp said:


> Call the company - they will give you a discount code! They gave me 20.00 off!



Thanks.


----------



## Currently

penningp said:


> Call the company - they will give you a discount code! They gave me 20.00 off!






Now he tells us! 

Feel like red Repping you out of sheer spite! :bang: 


Been using mine for three months and still no regrets ... easily the best way to consistently sharpen a chain and get factory results every time. 

Got about 40 - 50 sharpenings out of the tool bit and it still is like new. 

Seriously, this is worth the price I paid for the consistency of the results.


----------



## rwoods

I thought the discount code deal was long gone so I paid full price as well - no regrets. Ron


----------



## madhatte

Just got my hands on one of these (thanks, Gologit!) and the first thing I did was pass it on to one of my co-workers, cold, with these simple instructions and no other warning (folks are used to being my guinea pigs these days -- I'm always trying something and looking for input): 

1) read the booklet for directions
2) run it like you stole it
3) tell me everything you hate

We're gonna be bashing out some blowdown ahead of a dozer tomorrow so I expect that we'll see some hard conditions for chains. I'll report tomorrow what I find. I didn't warn him about the clockwise vs counterclockwise detail -- I want to know if the booklet is emphatic enough about that. If no, I'll certainly pass it on to the manufacturer as well as you guys.


----------



## Gologit

madhatte said:


> Just got my hands on one of these (thanks, Gologit!) and the first thing I did was pass it on to one of my co-workers, cold, with these simple instructions and no other warning (folks are used to being my guinea pigs these days -- I'm always trying something and looking for input):
> 
> 1) read the booklet for directions
> 2) run it like you stole it
> 3) tell me everything you hate
> 
> We're gonna be bashing out some blowdown ahead of a dozer tomorrow so I expect that we'll see some hard conditions for chains. I'll report tomorrow what I find. I didn't warn him about the clockwise vs counterclockwise detail -- I want to know if the booklet is emphatic enough about that. If no, I'll certainly pass it on to the manufacturer as well as you guys.



Let us know how it works out. The clockwise vs. counterclockwise is addressed in the manual.

I wasn't as brave as you, I gave my trail crew guys a short lesson before I turned them loose with it and the majority of them picked it up right away.


----------



## madhatte

I sent it out cold because I figured that's the true test of the device's worth. If it's intuitive enough that it requires no instruction beyond a single-page Xeroxed set of instructions, it's a winner.


----------



## madhatte

OK, here's the verdict, folks. Mind you, this is coming from a coworker who knows how to run a saw but isn't too particular about chains.



> Love the chain sharpener. Once you get the adjustments right, which isn't hard, it's great. Getting the correct angle on all teeth in the field is good. It's also fast. No complaints!



Gonna pass it on to one other person but I think I'll likely be getting one of these for each of the trucks at work. Should save me some grinder time.


----------



## Gologit

madhatte said:


> OK, here's the verdict, folks. Mind you, this is coming from a coworker who knows how to run a saw but isn't too particular about chains.
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna pass it on to one other person but I think I'll likely be getting one of these for each of the trucks at work. Should save me some grinder time.



I thought you might like that gadget. My trail crew, good people but with widely varied skill levels, can turn out some of the prettiest chains you've ever seen. 

Before I got them the gadget? 'Twas truly scary. Some of them are going to try hand filing now that they have an idea of what a sharp chain really is.


When you get your new ones just send me the demonstrator back.


----------



## madhatte

Time for another field report. 

Second coworker just brought the device in, a bit frustrated with two things: first, the aluminum-on-aluminum-on-aluminum action in the stop pawl mechanism tends toward galling. I took it apart and rubbed the sharp edges with beeswax; that seems to be holding it for now. A better, more permanent fix, would be to make the screw mechanism out of steel. Second, the burr sits too high and the pawl too far back for sharpening chains at the end of their lives. I realize that settling the chassis further down can help fix this, as can grinding another cut in the opposite side to carry the pawl, but that shouldn't be necessary. 

I would add to the instructions a MUCH larger warning against turning the burr counterclockwise, and add that the sharpener is most effective on chains that have at least 1/3 of their meat intact. 

Gonna pass it around some more and see what else I can find out.


----------



## dwraisor

madhatte said:


> Time for another field report.
> 
> Second coworker just brought the device in, a bit frustrated with two things: first, the aluminum-on-aluminum-on-aluminum action in the stop pawl mechanism tends toward galling. I took it apart and rubbed the sharp edges with beeswax; that seems to be holding it for now. A better, more permanent fix, would be to make the screw mechanism out of steel. Second, the burr sits too high and the pawl too far back for sharpening chains at the end of their lives. I realize that settling the chassis further down can help fix this, as can grinding another cut in the opposite side to carry the pawl, but that shouldn't be necessary.
> 
> I would add to the instructions a MUCH larger warning against turning the burr counterclockwise, and add that the sharpener is most effective on chains that have at least 1/3 of their meat intact.
> 
> Gonna pass it around some more and see what else I can find out.




Good feedback. This tool probably designed more for the personal vs. professional environment. Mayeb send some suggestions tot he company they can come up w/ a pro-grade version.

dw


----------



## rwoods

Still doing well with mine. I paid more attention this past Saturday - the shavings in my fingers are from pulling the chain around - the rig does not drop them on you. Ron


----------



## Preston

The aluminum on aluminum issue was my first question. That would my main concern. I like the steel idea. 

The shaving deal in the fingers is just something you probably will just have to get used to, I would think. But you have shaving with a round file.


----------



## half_full

rwoods said:


> Still doing well with mine. I paid more attention this past Saturday - the shavings in my fingers are from pulling the chain around - the rig does not drop them on you. Ron



I use a shop rag to move the chain along. Almost eliminates the shavings in your fingers.


----------



## Officer's Match

half_full said:


> I use a shop rag to move the chain along. Almost eliminates the shavings in your fingers.



Never used this rig, but from looking at it, seems to be no reason not to use gloves. I like to bare hand my filing hand for feel, but with this bur setup I see no need to bare hand.


----------



## Gologit

Officer's Match said:


> Never used this rig, but from looking at it, seems to be no reason not to use gloves. I like to bare hand my filing hand for feel, but with this bur setup I see no need to bare hand.



True. Plus, if you're sharpening correctly and getting a good sharp edge, a pair of gloves is a good idea. The worst cut I ever got from a chain was while filing and pulling the chain around the bar by hand.


----------



## half_full

Officer's Match said:


> Never used this rig, but from looking at it, seems to be no reason not to use gloves. I like to bare hand my filing hand for feel, but with this bur setup I see no need to bare hand.



It's just that it's harder to open a beer can with gloves on :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## Officer's Match

half_full said:


> It's just that it's harder to open a beer can with gloves on :hmm3grin2orange:



More practice grasshoppa'.


----------



## rwoods

Sharpened some .404 today as well as a 3/8. I think ST would say I told you so as I believe the 3/8 was sharper than it was straight out of the Stihl package. I say that that is pretty good for a guy who has always been poor at any kind of sharpening. I can put an edge on a knife and completely destroy it with the next stroke. I admired the sharpening skills of my grandfather and my dad, both could put a razor edge on almost any knife with just a steel. They move so quickly the knife was just a blur at it alternated from top to bottom of the steel. They both slaughtered a lot of cattle so I guess they had no choice but to learn to do it right. Anyway, back to the Timberline. Helpful hint if you have reading glasses then use them. I have one .404 tooth considerably smaller than the rest. It was the first cutter and I hadn't seated the jig low enough. I had to eat up a lot of the cutter to fix my error. If I had my specs on, this wouldn't have happened. Ron


----------



## 7sleeper

Many people in a german chainsaw thread swear by a diamond coated file made exclusivly, by a german company, for a dealer on the forum. They claim it is much finer than the normal file and give a much sharper finish. They only use normal files now for the coarse sharpening and switch to the fine file for the "extra" sharpening. I am very tempted to buy one but I am not cutting that much in the last year as I woud like to, so I am still hesitent to buy a set of different sizes. They are expensive but they are only allowed to loose 5% of their material after estimated 50000 file strokes. So they estimate a file life of 50% so that would be about 500000 strokes. That is a pretty good life expectancy.

7


----------



## danl

This forum has cost me a ton of money over the last ten years.
But I had to have one of these, I got it in three days, that is really fast from the wherever he is to Mo. 
When I ordered I called Timberline and he gave me a discount because I mentioned Arboristsite. He seems to be a super nice guy.



I am completely impressed with it. I had just put a new chain on my 55r and cut some dirty wood, I had it real dull.
It took me about five minutes to figure out how to use the Timberline and maybe another fifteen to sharpen the chain. It cut better after sharpening than when I first put it on. What mostly impressed me is that it stayed sharp longer, I was still throwing big chips after cutting several hickory and oak logs that a excavator had laid over. 

I ordered the 25/35 guides, but have just used the standard 30 degree.


----------



## Officer's Match

I have not really experimented with different angles (at least intentionally). What would be the typical reasons/conditions where a shallower or steeper angle would be beneficial? Would for example a harder, dirtier wood like Locust make for a reason to go less steep?


----------



## danl

35 degree should cut faster, but dull quicker in dirty wood or so I have been told. So far 30 is plenty aggressive for my 55r.

I may try 35 on my 044.


----------



## Eccentric

Gologit said:


> I thought you might like that gadget. My trail crew, good people but with widely varied skill levels, can turn out some of the prettiest chains you've ever seen.
> 
> Before I got them the gadget? 'Twas truly scary. Some of them are going to try hand filing now that they have an idea of what a sharp chain really is.
> 
> 
> When you get your new ones just send me the demonstrator back.





madhatte said:


> Time for another field report.
> 
> Second coworker just brought the device in, a bit frustrated with two things: first, the aluminum-on-aluminum-on-aluminum action in the stop pawl mechanism tends toward galling. I took it apart and rubbed the sharp edges with beeswax; that seems to be holding it for now. A better, more permanent fix, would be to make the screw mechanism out of steel. Second, the burr sits too high and the pawl too far back for sharpening chains at the end of their lives. I realize that settling the chassis further down can help fix this, as can grinding another cut in the opposite side to carry the pawl, but that shouldn't be necessary.
> 
> I would add to the instructions a MUCH larger warning against turning the burr counterclockwise, and add that the sharpener is most effective on chains that have at least 1/3 of their meat intact.
> 
> Gonna pass it around some more and see what else I can find out.



Would one of you gentlemen please bring one of these units to the NorCal GTG? I'd really like to try one out, and I'm sure others there would too.

Thanks guys.


----------



## Gologit

Eccentric said:


> Would one of you gentlemen please bring one of these units to the NorCal GTG? I'd really like to try one out, and I'm sure others there would too.
> 
> Thanks guys.



I'll bring mine...if I can rassle it away from my trail crew. They love that thing.

Madhatte has the new one....naturally.  You might be able to talk him into bringing it with him.


----------



## Majorpayne

Eccentric said:


> Would one of you gentlemen please bring one of these units to the NorCal GTG? I'd really like to try one out, and I'm sure others there would too.
> 
> Thanks guys.



I think you would like a Stihl bench mount file guide better. I had a Timberline and sold it.


----------



## Fish

Is this guy at the EXPO in Louisville? I would love to meet him.


----------



## Philbert

Officer's Match said:


> What would be the typical reasons/conditions where a shallower or steeper angle would be beneficial?



If you cut _ALL_ hardwood, or _ALL_ softwood, you might want to adjust your angle to optimize things.

If you cut a variety of wood, the general angles work if you get and keep them sharp.

Philbert


----------



## dwraisor

Fish said:


> Is this guy at the EXPO in Louisville? I would love to meet him.



Heck, I'd just like to get in that place... 


dw


----------



## buckwill

sooo,, has anyone come to consensus of opinion on kinda best manual sharpener???my new 435 hussky did a great ojb of ffinishing the fall in my yardbut i need sharpening now, im hunting for the most bang for my buck, thanks for any help,, buck, by the way my chain is H30 husky,, should i be hunting for something else?? ti seemed sharp enough,, cut good, buck


----------



## Philbert

buckwill said:


> . . . has anyone come to consensus of opinion on kinda best manual sharpener??? . . .



It's the one that works for _you_. 

It's a preference thing. Some guys feel comfortable with one, and never get the hang of another.
Different skill levels; different types of cutting; different stokes for different folks.

Philbert


----------



## borat

I admit, I'm a hack when it comes to sharpening a chain. I just put the bar in a vice, and hand bomb the chain. Too lazy to find/use my sharpening aids. I file by eye and seem to get it right most of the time. Generally, the saw cuts considerably better when I'm done. However, I'm more than a bit certain that there are numerous guys here that would kick my a$$ if it was their chain.


----------



## biker250

This guy is still in business, right? I ordered mine 4 days ago from the timberline website and haven't heard anything. Hasn't charged my credit card and hasn't emailed me any info/updates.....


----------



## Uncle John

biker250 said:


> This guy is still in business, right? I ordered mine 4 days ago from the timberline website and haven't heard anything. Hasn't charged my credit card and hasn't emailed me any info/updates.....




Received mine about 4 or 5 days ago.
Rather quickly
No problems.


----------



## biker250

biker250 said:


> This guy is still in business, right? I ordered mine 4 days ago from the timberline website and haven't heard anything. Hasn't charged my credit card and hasn't emailed me any info/updates.....




Nevermind......the sharpener was in my mailbox when I got home. So about 4 days shipping time. Now time to sharpen some chains....thanks for all the helpful reviews


----------



## shawnw

Just got mine yesterday and it worked great on the first two chains I hit! Both were all over the place angles and such, so it was certainly a learning curve. Went to do my third chain tonight (one a grinder hit/blued) and boy what an eye opener, that son of a gun was HARD. I then tried to hand file the blue/hard material and found myself even more pissed off. You guys have any recommendations for how to proceed without taking forever or wrecking something? Maybe a sharpening bit in my Dremel?


----------



## Philbert

When the cutter is grinder hardened you have to grind past that part in order to be able to file again. Did you blue it with a grinder or Dremel tool grinder? Use the same tool, _lightly_, to grind slightly past that part and you should be able to file again, or use this tool.

Philbert


----------



## marloj2000

*Promo code*

I heard about the new chain sharpener today by someone who raved about it. I would love to order one and extra savings is always appreciated. I would love a promo code. "file-fool"
Thanks!!


----------



## Eccentric

Gologit let me borrow his Timberline sharpener at the NorCal GTG. I used it to true up a loop of .404 chisel that was way out of whack. Worked fine. I had to set up the unit so it was high on the bar (compared to how it sits when working with 3/8" pitch chain), and had to spend some time getting it 'square' with the bar afterwards. Didn't have the instruction sheet to guide me, but had it pretty well figured out within 10-15 minutes of tinkering. 

I'm impressed with it, and will pick one up sometime down the line. I end up with a lot of used chains on CL saws, and this unit is great for undoing other people's "custom" filing angles and making chains useable again. For touch ups, I'll stick to hand filing. Will tinker with a Granberg type guide as well.


----------



## mstang1988

Read this entire thread today. I'm hoping he still has a discount code hanging out! It's hard to spend so much when I rarely need to sharpen my chains (I just don't cut that much wood).


----------



## gcdible1

*Any news?*

Just checking in to see how the progress with the timberline is going. Loving it? Hating it? In between? Was wondering how you guys are liking it so far in long term use? Was thinking santa may just get me one this year.


----------



## FastGame

I've had mine for a few months and I like it a bunch. It's easy to use....my wife uses it to sharpen my chains...how can you not like that ? :msp_sneaky:


----------



## gcdible1

FastGame said:


> I've had mine for a few months and I like it a bunch. It's easy to use....my wife uses it to sharpen my chains...how can you not like that ? :msp_sneaky:



I certainly do like that idea, more cutting time less sharpening time! Prob. is my wife like to cut a bit as well. Just tired of filing my butt off and looking for great results like a new chain. Im getting the hang of filing i think, just not perfecting it. Just needed an excuse to drop the 150 bux on one. 'cause that would buy another saw. lol


----------



## FastGame

gcdible1 said:


> Just needed an excuse to drop the 150 bux on one. 'cause that would buy another saw. lol



yep, and then you'll have another chain to sharpen and still no Timberline  IMO the Timberline sharpens as good as new, after you use it you'll soon start to forget (or ease the pain) about the price. I use two saws and its nice knowing you start the day out with chains nice and sharp. When I dull the chain on the first saw I grab the other and my wife sharpens the the dull saw while I continue cutting. Works great.


----------



## 1dragon

alderman said:


> Looks like the same concept as the old Gamn sharpeners.



Okay I haven't read the whole thread yet so forgive me if this is off base. This looks almost exactly like my Gamn sharpener I still use. Only this one looks better constructed. On the Gamn it has two halves of the body portion riveted together. I was getting too aggressive I guess and the body was spreading, so I drilled out the rivets and bolted the two halves together. This one looks better constructed, but the old Gamn does a fine job. My only thing is I still havent really figured out how to properly use it for the drags, so I just hand file or Dremel those and do test cuts. Might have to pick one of these new Timberlines up!


----------



## gcdible1

FastGame said:


> yep, and then you'll have another chain to sharpen and still no Timberline  IMO the Timberline sharpens as good as new, after you use it you'll soon start to forget (or ease the pain) about the price. I use two saws and its nice knowing you start the day out with chains nice and sharp. When I dull the chain on the first saw I grab the other and my wife sharpens the the dull saw while I continue cutting. Works great.



Sounds like a good plan. As I said, i am starting to get the hang of filing, but still seems as if my chips are still small, not like a fresh chain. Wonder if the timberline accomplishes that? Either way xmas is for the kids so i may have to hold off for a bit. I am certainly glad I quit taking chains elsewhere to be sharpened. It seems they hack em up more than sharpen them!


----------



## Mhusby

*I live in Kentucky also. We have been known to travel aways to seek revenge*

:hmm3grin2orange:


atvdave said:


> Oh… I see you’re from the KY state. I have a lot of KY jokes, just can’t post them here, but they all have to do with kissing cousin’s, taking your sister to the prom, and teaching your daughter’s how to French kiss.
> 
> :msp_biggrin:


----------



## Currently

gcdible1 said:


> Sounds like a good plan. As I said, i am starting to get the hang of filing, but still seems as if my chips are still small, not like a fresh chain. Wonder if the timberline accomplishes that? Either way xmas is for the kids so i may have to hold off for a bit. I am certainly glad I quit taking chains elsewhere to be sharpened. It seems they hack em up more than sharpen them!



Raker height is the second thing I look at if the tooth is sharp and the chips are small. Slap a gauge on there, see how many file strokes it takes to get the height right and just go through the chain.


----------



## Dozer Man

*Love It...*

Just wanted to chime in here. I haven't used my timberline for a while now, but that's only because I haven't started bucking firewood yet (next years wood that is, been too busy). BUT...it's nice to know that when I do start cutting again, I've got about 12 freshly timberline sharpened chains to use. I used it to "revive" a bunch of old chains that were hanging around, some good ones and some mutilated ones. Granted, only 6 or 8 of those chains would I even think to take in and have a "Pro" sharpen. But at $15+ per chain, I got my money back already. Oh yeah, 2 of those chains were for a 36" bar.

As compared to hand filing?? If you are good at hand filing then you will be faster...but don't take too much time or I will be faster with the TL. Once you get in a rhythm the Timberline is not what I would call slow. 
However, unless you are really good with a hand file, odds are the timberline will show you your shortcomings. I thought I was decent at hand filing, and so did my old man, until I got the Timberline. Our older chains had some serious issues, cutter lengths and angles were all over the place.

Is the Timberline perfect? Probably not...
Can I tell the difference?? Nope...

Just my $.02.


----------



## gcdible1

Thanks, I picked up the husky roller guide/raker gauge a while back. Had to tweak it a bit to sit lower on stihl chains but it seems to do a decent job as well. Ill check my rakers, been kinda doing them by eye according to tooth length, etc. I must not be using the gauge right as it seems it never wants me to take any off the rakers. Ill figure it out eventually. lol


----------



## Itsme7

Thinking of picking one of these up, looking forward to it. I hand file with no jig (used husqy roller guide for a few years) and feel like i dont get uniform sharpening (usually after i have a run in with a rock and needing a bit of material to be removed) As far as carbide size, i run stihl chains on my saw, so id want to go with 13/64th right?


----------



## Currently

Itsme7 said:


> Thinking of picking one of these up, looking forward to it. I hand file with no jig (used husqy roller guide for a few years) and feel like i dont get uniform sharpening (usually after i have a run in with a rock and needing a bit of material to be removed) As far as carbide size, i run stihl chains on my saw, so id want to go with 13/64th right?



Yup, it's what I got for my Stihl chains.


----------



## Fifelaker

Santa threw one of these down the chimney yesterday. I set down and sharpend a bunch of chains today. Setup was straight forward ( watched the video) It took awhile to fix a couple of chains but it brought them back from the dead. I only made a couple of cuts, it cut very well until I hit some frozen sand that I didn't see:msp_mad:But so far so good.


----------



## Currently

Fifelaker said:


> Santa threw one of these down the chimney yesterday. I set down and sharpend a bunch of chains today. Setup was straight forward ( watched the video) It took awhile to fix a couple of chains but it brought them back from the dead. I only made a couple of cuts, it cut very well until I hit some frozen sand that I didn't see:msp_mad:But so far so good.



Try using it with a battery drill at low speed yet?

Beats hand filing .... ( I am no master filer, I can touch up a half dozen times by hand before needing a jig. )

Still needs a decent jig for raker height.

Other than that, great tool that will pay itself off. I've done close to a hundred sharpenings with little wear on the sharpening bit.


----------



## Itsme7

Just picked this puppy up, what a nicely machined tool! Definitely high quality and well thought out! I have yet to truly try it out (current chains have been rocked and hand filed, too much effort to get everything straightened out) but i did briefly mount it on the saw and see how it works, and im pretty excited to try it out! Will go through this round of chain and retire them as stumping/dirty wood chains and start sharpening with the timberline with some fresh Stihl RS. Heres 2 pics i snapped quick.


----------



## Preston

That is a well made unit. I was wondering if that device worked on the depth link in any way. I don't have one yet, been getting my reloading equipment going again, but I'll have one. These files have gotten old, plus I'm just not good enough with um.


----------



## bert0168

Preston said:


> That is a well made unit. I was wondering if that device worked on the depth link in any way. I don't have one yet, been getting my reloading equipment going again, but I'll have one. These files have gotten old, plus I'm just not good enough with um.



If by depth link you mean rakers, then no.

I don't know how you guys get away with working on saws in the kitchen or why you would even want to


----------



## MGoBlue

Funny you say that. I was just going to comment...that's exactly what I did when I got mine about a month ago, news papers and all. When the garage is unheated and its 10 degrees outside, you have to find a way to play with your new toys!!


----------



## Preston

Bert......I use the term depth links because I was reading the new instructions for the 250 and the book called them "depth gauges". I hardly ever get the correct term.


----------



## half_full

bert0168 said:


> I don't know how you guys get away with working on saws in the kitchen or why you would even want to



case halves in the oven, air filter in the sink, side covers in the dishwasher. I'm beginning to think I need to move my tools into the kitchen


----------



## danl

bert0168 said:


> If by depth link you mean rakers, then no.
> 
> I don't know how you guys get away with working on saws in the kitchen or why you would even want to



It would be the last thing I ever did, wife would kill me. dead.... But then I heat the shop with my Hardy boiler and it stays about 65.

I have one of those Timberlines and really like it.


----------



## memory

Been thinking about this sharpener for a while now. I may decide to get one to go along with my new saw. Are there any retail stores or dealers that carry this product or does it have to be bought online? 

How many times can you sharpen, lets say a 25" chain before the cutter needs to be replaced. How much quicker is this vs. hand filing? I realize the first time you use it, it will take some time to get everything set up right. 

Sorry if these questions have already been answered, didn't feel like reading through every post.


----------



## Pa Pa Jack

I bought one of these when I got into cutting more firewood. I was terrible at sharpening by hand and the local dealership puts the chain on an automatic sharpener that means you only get it sharpened twice and it's worn out. 

I am very impressed with the ease of use and the sharpness of the chain. I put an old bar in the vice and go. I'll sit in the shop listening to the radio and really enjoy it. It seems that the chains stay sharp a lot longer. I do cut a lot of dirty wood but try to be careful. This has been a very good investment. Has more than paid for itself already.


----------



## danl

memory said:


> Been thinking about this sharpener for a while now. I may decide to get one to go along with my new saw. Are there any retail stores or dealers that carry this product or does it have to be bought online?
> 
> How many times can you sharpen, lets say a 25" chain before the cutter needs to be replaced. How much quicker is this vs. hand filing? I realize the first time you use it, it will take some time to get everything set up right.
> 
> Sorry if these questions have already been answered, didn't feel like reading through every post.



You can buy on Amazon. But I called the company and the owner took my order and gave me a discount because I said I read about it on arboristsite.

I read somewhere the inventor owner had used one cutter on over 100 chains and was still fine.

It is not faster than hand filing unless you factor in having to refile because you did it wrong. I would not part with mine.
I ran my 044 into gravel Saturday (not on purpose) and had to make two passes to get it straightened back up.


----------



## memory

I am guessing there are no retail stores that carry these? I wouldn't mind looking at one before I bought it. How much of a discount did you get? Is there any type of promo code right now for this? 

That is hard to believe that the cutters can last that long.


----------



## MGoBlue

I saved $25. "Like" Timberline on Facebook for a $15 off code. 
PM sent...


----------



## Gologit

memory said:


> I am guessing there are no retail stores that carry these? I wouldn't mind looking at one before I bought it. How much of a discount did you get? Is there any type of promo code right now for this?
> 
> That is hard to believe that the cutters can last that long.



The cutters are carbide and if your chain isn't badly rocked or extremely dull it doesn't take much pressure to sharpen the chain. A lot of guys take off way too much metal when they're sharpening.

All a regular chain needs is a light touch. In good light you can see the metal coming off of the chain as it sharpens. 

I haven't kept track of how many chains one carbide bit will sharpen but it's a bunch.


----------



## Philbert

Gologit said:


> I haven't kept track of how many chains one carbide bit will sharpen but it's a bunch.



? I thought you were a square-ground kind of guy ?

Philbert


----------



## Gologit

Philbert said:


> ? I thought you were a square-ground kind of guy ?
> 
> Philbert



:msp_rolleyes: Well, I used to be. Until I retired and sold my grinder. I should have kept it.

I suck at hand filing square and retirement has become semi-retirement...but I'm not buying another grinder. I don't cut nearly as much as I used to, usually, and Oregon 75JGX or LGX is good chain and is easy to round file.

And one of these days I am going to retire. :biggrin:


----------



## danl

Gologit said:


> The cutters are carbide and if your chain isn't badly rocked or extremely dull it doesn't take much pressure to sharpen the chain. A lot of guys take off way too much metal when they're sharpening.
> 
> All a regular chain needs is a light touch. In good light you can see the metal coming off of the chain as it sharpens.
> 
> I haven't kept track of how many chains one carbide bit will sharpen but it's a bunch.



I agree, I am taking a whole lot less off the chain than I did hand filing. It also stays sharper longer.


----------



## danl

memory said:


> I am guessing there are no retail stores that carry these? I wouldn't mind looking at one before I bought it. How much of a discount did you get? Is there any type of promo code right now for this?
> 
> That is hard to believe that the cutters can last that long.



I don't know of anywhere to look at one. It is not a piece of junk though, it is very solid and well made. IMO


----------



## memory

danl said:


> I don't know of anywhere to look at one. It is not a piece of junk though, it is very solid and well made. IMO



I figured no stores carried them, too much of a specialty item, I guess. I think I am going to get one. I can get $25 off so that helps out as well. Just curious, how do they ship their stuff, UPS, USPS or Fedex? Doesn't really matter too much as long as it is not USPS first class mail. 

I plan on getting the 13/64 and 3/16 cutter. Since the cutters lasts so long, should I get a extra one of each?


----------



## Preston

I think in order for the piece to be sold in saw shops it would have to be promoted. That cost will probably prohibit it. So they're sold by direct sales. That way you even get it cheaper.


----------



## Fish

Carbide cutters last a reeeaaaalll long time, I wouldn't buy extra cutters.


----------



## danl

memory said:


> I figured no stores carried them, too much of a specialty item, I guess. I think I am going to get one. I can get $25 off so that helps out as well. Just curious, how do they ship their stuff, UPS, USPS or Fedex? Doesn't really matter too much as long as it is not USPS first class mail.
> 
> I plan on getting the 13/64 and 3/16 cutter. Since the cutters lasts so long, should I get a extra one of each?



He shipped mine Priority mail. I ordered on a Friday and had it Monday all the way from Idaho or Utah. can't remember.


----------



## REJ2

One sound reason for buying extra cutters, even if they are long lasting, is maybe Timberline might not be so long lasting. Who knows how long they might exist in today's economy. The cutters look proprietary to say the least. The jig would be useless without the cutters. Carbide can be brittle, drop one, might get damaged, or lose one.


----------



## memory

REJ2 said:


> One sound reason for buying extra cutters, even if they are long lasting, is maybe Timberline might not be so long lasting. Who knows how long they might exist in today's economy. The cutters look proprietary to say the least. The jig would be useless without the cutters. Carbide can be brittle, drop one, might get damaged, or lose one.



I was thinking the exact same thing. Although I also thought if they are as great as everyone says they are, then maybe they will be around for a while.


----------



## Preston

Just because someone has a good product does not mean enough items can be sold to keep above water. I've seen um go down before that I though really had it going on. Does Timberline have other products they sell?


----------



## memory

I think they do sell knives unless it is a different company. I am not sure what else they sell. 

I will probably buy an extra one to be on the safe side. 

Another question, how does this sharpener compare to a higher quality grinder? I have the cheap HF one myself, I know it will do better than that. But I know someone that has an Oregon grinder, not sure of the model. How does it compare to the really high quality grinders like the Silvey's?


----------



## Philbert

memory said:


> Another question, how does this sharpener compare to a higher quality grinder? I have the cheap HF one myself, I know it will do better than that. But I know someone that has an Oregon grinder, not sure of the model. How does it compare to the really high quality grinders like the Silvey's?



One of the issues with sharpening is that not all files are 'the same', and not all grinding wheels are 'the same'. There are trade-offs between speed of cut, smoothness of finish, life of the file/grinding wheel, etc. The different grinders you mention might make less of a difference (assuming that they run true) than the wheels used. Then, of course, there is the skill of the user!

I have watched this thread with interest, and would like the chance to see/try one of the Timberline sharpeners some day. It appears to provide a finished tooth that posters here have been impressed with, without too much fuss. But you are also limited to a few, specific choices.

With a grinder I _can_ change a number of the sharpening angles (if I want/need to) for different chains or different types of cutting. I _can_ put on different wheels (although, some are hard to get) to grind quicker, or to provide a smoother finish, if that is important. Same with filing - I _could_ start with a coarse file for really rocked chain, then finish with a smoother file. But this all assumes that I _want_ to do this or that it is important.

My bottom line has always been for people to find something that works for them. I have only see positive things posted in this thread, so I have to assume that it works for a lot of guys.

Philbert


----------



## Gologit

memory said:


> Another question, how does this sharpener compare to a higher quality grinder? I have the cheap HF one myself, I know it will do better than that. But I know someone that has an Oregon grinder, not sure of the model. How does it compare to the really high quality grinders like the Silvey's?



There are two things I look for in a chain sharpener...sharp and fast. If I have to sharpen chains after work I want good results without being exiled to the garage all evening.

As nearly as I can tell the Timberline will put as good an edge on a chain as a grinder. I can get a slightly better edge if I hand file but the increase is so small that most people wouldn't notice. The extra time it takes isn't usually worth it.

The Timberline, once you get used to it, is faster than hand filing and your teeth will be consistent in angle and size. It's not quite as fast as a grinder if you need to do a dozen.. but if you're only doing a couple of chains, or the same chain over and over it's just as quick.

The Silvey is a fine machine, the Oregon not quite as good but perfectly acceptable. But unless you're doing a lot of chains, or just feel like having another gadget to play with (don't we all?) they're not really cost effective.


----------



## Fish

I think that the cutters are produced by a third party, and should be able to be found....

It is cute that most of you guys think the world revolves around chainsaws......


----------



## Gologit

Fish said:


> I think that the cutters are produced by a third party, and should be able to be found....
> 
> It is cute that most of you guys think the world revolves around chainsaws......



Well thanks Fish! I'm glad that we keep you amused. It's nice to know that we provide a few moments entertainment for you in an otherwise drab and irrelevant life.


----------



## memory

Philbert said:


> One of the issues with sharpening is that not all files are 'the same', and not all grinding wheels are 'the same'. There are trade-offs between speed of cut, smoothness of finish, life of the file/grinding wheel, etc. The different grinders you mention might make less of a difference (assuming that they run true) than the wheels used. Then, of course, there is the skill of the user!
> 
> I have watched this thread with interest, and would like the chance to see/try one of the Timberline sharpeners some day. It appears to provide a finished tooth that posters here have been impressed with, without too much fuss. But you are also limited to a few, specific choices.
> 
> *With a grinder I can change a number of the sharpening angles (if I want/need to) for different chains or different types of cutting*. I _can_ put on different wheels (although, some are hard to get) to grind quicker, or to provide a smoother finish, if that is important. Same with filing - I _could_ start with a coarse file for really rocked chain, then finish with a smoother file. But this all assumes that I _want_ to do this or that it is important.
> 
> My bottom line has always been for people to find something that works for them. I have only see positive things posted in this thread, so I have to assume that it works for a lot of guys.
> 
> Philbert



I don't know if you know this but you can get 25 and 35 degree angle guides for this sharpener. I realize with a grinder, you can do more precise angle changes. 

I will not be buying a grinder, I was just saying I know someone that has a Oregon grinder that used to do our sharpening for nothing. It is just more convenient to do it on our own time. I have a HF grinder and do not like it that much. I just use it if I really damage a chain.


----------



## Philbert

memory said:


> I have a HF grinder and do not like it that much. I just use it if I really damage a chain.



There is a lot of personal preference here. I started with a hand file & simple guide, then an Oregon bar-mounted file guide, etc. But once I got started on a grinder found it 'best' for me for most stuff, and use the other stuff occasionally.

Having your grinder to 'clean up' rocked chains, then finishing with the Timberline could be a good combo for you.

Philbert


----------



## willowrun23

*Sharpener*



Old51AVE said:


> Did a search but couldn't find any reviews,has anyone seen or tried this sharpener?
> Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener |Sharpen Your Chainsaw Looks like a nice unit, but pricey! It would be ok if it was fast and accurate, but the price of the burrs and the tool itself seems a bit high!
> 
> 
> Old51AVE :greenchainsaw:



Looks like a well made tool, dont really think the price is bad if it works ok!


----------



## bert0168

All I can add is that the price was worth it for me since I wanted consistent even results on each tooth and wasn't real confident with hand filing.

They will break if dropped on a concrete floor, don't ask how I know.

Phil ships this stuff out pretty fast.

For the price of the cutters, an extra one would probably assure the tool would almost outlast you. (If you don't drop it :bang


----------



## Philbert

bert0168 said:


> They will break if dropped on a concrete floor, don't ask how I know.



Sorry for your loss. Looks like an aluminum extrusion - thought it might bend. What broke?

(P.S. - my grinder would not survive a drop to a concrete floor either!)

Philbert


----------



## willowrun23

*sharpeners*



Gologit said:


> There are two things I look for in a chain sharpener...sharp and fast. If I have to sharpen chains after work I want good results without being exiled to the garage all evening.
> 
> As nearly as I can tell the Timberline will put as good an edge on a chain as a grinder. I can get a slightly better edge if I hand file but the increase is so small that most people wouldn't notice. The extra time it takes isn't usually worth it.
> 
> The Timberline, once you get used to it, is faster than hand filing and your teeth will be consistent in angle and size. It's not quite as fast as a grinder if you need to do a dozen.. but if you're only doing a couple of chains, or the same chain over and over it's just as quick.
> 
> The Silvey is a fine machine, the Oregon not quite as good but perfectly acceptable. But unless you're doing a lot of chains, or just feel like having another gadget to play with (don't we all?) they're not really cost effective.



Unfortunately silvey, I hear is going out of buisness.


----------



## bert0168

Philbert said:


> Sorry for your loss. Looks like an aluminum extrusion - thought it might bend. What broke?
> 
> (P.S. - my grinder would not survive a drop to a concrete floor either!)
> 
> Philbert



Only the carbide bit, that's what I dropped.

There's no way the body on the tool would break, too thick.


----------



## Preston

bert0168 said:


> All I can add is that the price was worth it for me since I wanted consistent even results on each tooth and wasn't real confident with hand filing.
> 
> They will break if dropped on a concrete floor, don't ask how I know.
> 
> Phil ships this stuff out pretty fast.
> 
> For the price of the cutters, an extra one would probably assure the tool would almost outlast you. (If you don't drop it :bang



Bert......don't beat yourself up just because you're clumsy. We're not all bless with the same hand/eye coordination. :taped:


----------



## Fifelaker

willowrun23 said:


> Looks like a well made tool, dont really think the price is bad if it works ok!



I can make chips with a file. I'm not as consistant as I would like, this thing shows how far off your angles can be. Santa brought mine this last Christmas. It took a few minutes to get it correct the first time (the vid on Timberlines website helps) I have nothing bad to say about it. Shipping was FAST. Phil didn't get the CC # correct or I didn't say it correct. he called me right back to verify it. That was on Thur Dec 20th. it showed up Sat Dec. 22th. He also gave me the AS discount. All and all it works very well for me.


----------



## Fish

Gologit said:


> Well thanks Fish! I'm glad that we keep you amused. It's nice to know that we provide a few moments entertainment for you in an otherwise drab and irrelevant life.



Did I say that?????

I get cranky when I need a Snickers.......

I apologize.......


----------



## Preston

Fish.......my middle name seems to curmudgeon. You don't know how lucky you are.


----------



## Eccentric

I need to break down and get one of these. I've got many loops of chain that have come to me on used saws. Most have lots of tooth life left.........but the angles area always TERRIBLE (inconsistant and just plain wrong) to the point of causing the saws to cut to one side. Takes a lot of time to correct the angles with a file......so the loops sit in a box. 

I was impressed with the Timberline when Bob let me try his out. Was able to correct a REALLY screwed up .404 chain with it in about 15 minutes or so (including about 15 minutes of 'no instruction manual' fiddling setup time).


----------



## Gologit

Eccentric said:


> I need to break down and get one of these. I've got many loops of chain that have come to me on used saws. Most have lots of tooth life left.........but the angles area always TERRIBLE (inconsistant and just plain wrong) to the point of causing the saws to cut to one side. Takes a lot of time to correct the angles with a file......so the loops sit in a box.
> 
> I was impressed with the Timberline when Bob let me try his out. Was able to correct a REALLY screwed up .404 chain with it in about 15 minutes or so (including about 15 minutes of 'no instruction manual' fiddling setup time).




OOPs I thought you'd used one before so I didn't want to bore you with more instructions. How's this?


How to use Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener - YouTube


----------



## Preston

I just ran the file over the chain on my 250 for the first time. Mercy, I gonna order one of those. What a pain the file is.


----------



## Currently

File has its place. 

If you are rested and focused, it is faster and gives you tactile feedback.

However, when you are hot, sweaty and tired, the focus is not there and the results show it.


----------



## KiwiBro

Currently said:


> However, when you are hot, sweaty and tired, the focus is not there and the results show it.


 Knowing when to call it a day is by far the safest technique I've learned so far. It's quite a discipline. Not one often appreciated by everybody, especially when there's "only an hour's work left".


----------



## memory

Do any of you know if Timberline will have a booth at the National Farm Machinery Show in Louisville next week?


----------



## Fish

memory said:


> Do any of you know if Timberline will have a booth at the National Farm Machinery Show in Louisville next week?



I doubt it. Call the guy and ask him. He is a real nice guy, I think the discussion here has sold a bunch of his sharpeners


----------



## Steve NW WI

memory said:


> Do any of you know if Timberline will have a booth at the National Farm Machinery Show in Louisville next week?



Have no clue, but I sure want to make the NFMS one of these years! Pretty much any farm show would sell quite a few of these sharpeners in my opinion.


----------



## memory

I bought this sharpener and just received it couple of days ago and figured I would let you know what I thought of it. There are two main things I do not like about it and they are not reasons to stop you from buying it. First is the depth screw adjustment. It doesn't seem like it was real thought out. The smoothness of it is not that good, not like the rest of the tool. It is kind of rough adjusting it. Kind of hard to explain in writing. 

Second is the cutters not being marked with the size. I know the case is marked with the size but what happens when you lose the case for the cutters? For most people just having maybe two different cutters, it probably will not be a big deal. But what about the people that have multiple cutters? I can see the cutters not being marked a problem for them. I am sure quite a bit of time went into making this tool, how much longer could it have took to engrave the size into the cutter itself?

Again, these are very minor issues and should not stop anyone from buying this product, it is still an excellent product. 

As far as sharpening with this tool, I used it on two different chains and so far I like it better than hand filing. Now it will take a few sharpenings to get the chain to follow the contours of the cutters exactly, at least on my chains it will. I have not timed it or anything, but I do think it is faster than hand filing. I like the fact that you take off the same amount on each tooth. It does take a little fooling around to get it setup right, it is not like you can just sit the tool on the bar and start sharpening but not that bad. 

And I found out they are not at the Farm Show.


----------



## gcdible1

memory said:


> I bought this sharpener and just received it couple of days ago and figured I would let you know what I thought of it. There are two main things I do not like about it and they are not reasons to stop you from buying it. First is the depth screw adjustment. It doesn't seem like it was real thought out. The smoothness of it is not that good, not like the rest of the tool. It is kind of rough adjusting it. Kind of hard to explain in writing.
> 
> Second is the cutters not being marked with the size. I know the case is marked with the size but what happens when you lose the case for the cutters? For most people just having maybe two different cutters, it probably will not be a big deal. But what about the people that have multiple cutters? I can see the cutters not being marked a problem for them. I am sure quite a bit of time went into making this tool, how much longer could it have took to engrave the size into the cutter itself?
> 
> Again, these are very minor issues and should not stop anyone from buying this product, it is still an excellent product.
> 
> 
> As far as sharpening with this tool, I used it on two different chains and so far I like it better than hand filing. Now it will take a few sharpenings to get the chain to follow the contours of the cutters exactly, at least on my chains it will. I have not timed it or anything, but I do think it is faster than hand filing. I like the fact that you take off the same amount on each tooth. It does take a little fooling around to get it setup right, it is not like you can just sit the tool on the bar and start sharpening but not that bad.
> 
> And I found out they are not at the Farm Show.



I'd like to buy one, but still a bit concerned as to setup time and or whether or not a grinder may be a better option. Ill follow this thread til I can make a confident purchase. Just wish I was near a GTG to try one out.


----------



## danl

memory said:


> I bought this sharpener and just received it couple of days ago and figured I would let you know what I thought of it. There are two main things I do not like about it and they are not reasons to stop you from buying it. First is the depth screw adjustment. It doesn't seem like it was real thought out. The smoothness of it is not that good, not like the rest of the tool. It is kind of rough adjusting it. Kind of hard to explain in writing.
> 
> Second is the cutters not being marked with the size. I know the case is marked with the size but what happens when you lose the case for the cutters? For most people just having maybe two different cutters, it probably will not be a big deal. But what about the people that have multiple cutters? I can see the cutters not being marked a problem for them. I am sure quite a bit of time went into making this tool, how much longer could it have took to engrave the size into the cutter itself?
> 
> Again, these are very minor issues and should not stop anyone from buying this product, it is still an excellent product.
> 
> As far as sharpening with this tool, I used it on two different chains and so far I like it better than hand filing. Now it will take a few sharpenings to get the chain to follow the contours of the cutters exactly, at least on my chains it will. I have not timed it or anything, but I do think it is faster than hand filing. I like the fact that you take off the same amount on each tooth. It does take a little fooling around to get it setup right, it is not like you can just sit the tool on the bar and start sharpening but not that bad.
> 
> And I found out they are not at the Farm Show.


I also think the cutters should be marked, My dog ate my 7/32" holder. No really....

I guess I could engrave a 7 on the end of it and a 5 on the 5/32


----------



## deranged

Use a sharpie or some paint. You're going to have a very hard time engraving carbide unless you have some diamonds.


----------



## Philbert

memory said:


> Second is the cutters not being marked with the size. I know the case is marked with the size but what happens when you lose the case for the cutters?



They should stamp or mark them so people can tell them apart. A few ideas:

Paint the ends different colors.

Take an old credit card and carefully drill holes in it for each size cutter so that you can check them against it.

Get some small zip lock bags and label those (that's how I mark the anvils for my spinner).

Grind a few marks in the end or shaft with a Dremel tool: 1 mark = , 2 marks = , 3 marks = .

Philbert


----------



## memory

gcdible1 said:


> I'd like to buy one, but still a bit concerned as to setup time and or whether or not a grinder may be a better option. Ill follow this thread til I can make a confident purchase. Just wish I was near a GTG to try one out.



Really, setup time is not that bad. Now I haven't tried it out in the field yet. But I do think it is much quicker than hand filing even counting the setup time. The price is the biggest thing for most people. 

If you do buy a grinder, I would not buy a cheap grinder like the one from Harbor Freight. I got one of those and it does fine for fixing a rocked chain but don't really use it besides that.


----------



## Eric106

I got one of these about a year ago and used it for a while but ended up going back to filing with a roller guide. 

It's a good product and will produce a near perfect sharpening but I found it was just too fiddly for me. It took me too long to get it setup correctly and then once it was setup it kept getting out of adjustment. I think I was pushing too hard or was trying to take off too much in one pass and that made it move on the bar. I added an extra slot in mine like was shown back in post #277 so that I was always cutting the same way. This did help me be a little bit more consistent but I still just couldn't get the hang of it. I never really got good with it and eventually found myself going back to the file all the time. 

So anyway, not a bad tool but the better sharpening it gave over the file wasn't worth the extra time to me.

If anyone is interested, I have a lightly used one with two 5/32" carbide cutters for 3/8" Pico/low-profile chain I'd let go for a reasonable offer.
If interested send me a PM and I can post some pics in the "Tradin' Post" forum. 

-Eric


----------



## MGoBlue

I can be setup in maybe 2 minutes at the most, and when you tighten the set screws to the bar, as long as they are tight it ain't movin'! I wish you were selling when I was buying! Someone make this man a good offer.


----------



## memory

I am having a few issues with this tool. I don't know if it is me using it wrong or the tool. The first issue is when I finish one side of the chain and switch to the other side, I have to adjust the depth because it is simply not taking off anything or the cutter will not fit at all. This is on a brand new Stihl 33RS chain, I have done a little cutting with it but not much. I wouldn't think this is normal.

Second is maybe it is just me but it does not look like it is making a very good edge. Maybe I am not taking off enough but the edge does not look smooth. And it seems it is not going down in the hook very far. Again maybe that is because I am not taking enough off. Or maybe I am not getting the tool setup right. I will try to get some good pics posted shortly.


----------



## MGoBlue

Pics will definitely help. I sharpen all of one side, then have to make a small adjustment for the other side, it's very small though. And I have 2 loops, a 33rs and an Oregon 72lgx which I have great success putting a fine edge on.


----------



## Currently

memory said:


> I am having a few issues with this tool. I don't know if it is me using it wrong or the tool. The first issue is when I finish one side of the chain and switch to the other side, I have to adjust the depth because it is simply not taking off anything or the cutter will not fit at all. This is on a brand new Stihl 33RS chain, I have done a little cutting with it but not much. I wouldn't think this is normal.
> 
> Second is maybe it is just me but it does not look like it is making a very good edge. Maybe I am not taking off enough but the edge does not look smooth. And it seems it is not going down in the hook very far. Again maybe that is because I am not taking enough off. Or maybe I am not getting the tool setup right. I will try to get some good pics posted shortly.



I had to watch the video three times before I got it. Focused on something different each time. Then I had to learn not to take too much off, it's better to make a couple light passes than to make one heavy pass. 

If this don't work, give him a call.


----------



## memory

MGoBlue said:


> Pics will definitely help. I sharpen all of one side, then have to make a small adjustment for the other side, it's very small though. And I have 2 loops, a 33rs and an Oregon 72lgx which I have great success putting a fine edge on.



I sharpen all of one side as well but when but when going from the left hand teeth to the right hand teeth, it is not even close. The tooth is to far forward.



Currently said:


> I had to watch the video three times before I got it. Focused on something different each time. Then I had to learn not to take too much off, it's better to make a couple light passes than to make one heavy pass.
> 
> If this don't work, give him a call.



I have watched that video more than once and other videos as well. Part of my problem I may be taking off to much. This is something that will be hard to talk about over the phone. 

Here are some pics. The pics may not be that great, I must have a crappy camera for these type of shots. 

















This is on a fairly new Stihl chain that has never been sharpened by any other method. I have found that all the teeth are not the same length even though it is new.


----------



## Currently

Looks like it is setting too high ... I'd give him a call in the morning.


----------



## sverreef

Eric106 said:


> If anyone is interested, I have a lightly used one with two 5/32" carbide cutters for 3/8" Pico/low-profile chain I'd let go for a reasonable offer.
> If interested send me a PM and I can post some pics in the "Tradin' Post" forum.



Is this still up for sale?


----------



## Eric106

sverreef said:


> Is this still up for sale?



Thanks for the interest but no, it has been sold.

-Eric


----------



## Majorpayne

Eric106 said:


> Thanks for the interest but no, it has been sold.
> 
> -Eric



I think that was a spammer.


----------



## sverreef

Eric106 said:


> Thanks for the interest but no, it has been sold.



Yeah, I kind of expected that someone would have snatched it already, but I still had to try... :msp_smile:


*Rockstock:* Is there any update regarding the possible ripping and/or integrated raker height options mentioned earlier in the thread?


----------



## Hulsty

Does anyone know of any retails that post to Australia? Timberline do not directly and either do Amazon, PM please thanks.


----------



## HDRock

Does any one know if they are still giving $25 off ??? , it would be nice cuz I would need 3 different size cutters


----------



## sverreef

I got 15 dollars in discount when I ordered mine last week.


----------



## jcl

Jack D said:


> Does any one know if they are still giving $25 off ??? , it would be nice cuz I would need 3 different size cutters



promo code CUT 2

I've had mine for 4 months. i do a better job with this then files or ele grinder but you have to keep the tool level one side will try to rise. i'm hoping they will at the Maine expo this weekend would like to buy another cutter


----------



## Moparmyway

sverreef said:


> I got 15 dollars in discount when I ordered mine last week.



I got no discount, and I still think this is th ebest thing to have in the field !!
I use a grinder when I rock my chains, but in the field, I aint got no grinder !! This is the best way to correctly sharpen a rocked chain in the field, better than a file and dont need no electric like I do with a grinder !!

All in all, its a usefull tool in the field if you are short on chains and good on rocks, but I still try to file mine and will grind when necessary


----------



## HDRock

jcl said:


> promo code CUT 2
> 
> I've had mine for 4 months. i do a better job with this then files or ele grinder but you have to keep the tool level one side will try to rise. i'm hoping they will at the Maine expo this weekend would like to buy another cutter



Thanks , Is that code for $15 off ??


----------



## jcl

View attachment 295342


----------



## HDRock

jcl said:


> View attachment 295342



Oh ya that works, Thank You

$25.00 Off!


----------



## heyduke

*Timberline Sharpener Review*

Last Thursday I ordered the Timberline Sharpener from timberlinesharpener.com. I was surprised to find it was delivered two days later on Saturday morning, excellent service. I also purchased an extra burr, a 5/32" for my climbing saws. Over the weekend I sharpened five saws. Here are my impressions:

First, I have been sharpening with an electric grinder for about fifteen years. For quite a few of them I would do 15 - 20 saws on Sunday nights to get them ready for a week's work with a tree crew. It has always bothered me that no matter how I tried, I could never get them to cut as well as a new loop and that the edges did not last as long as when they were new. Currently I use an Oregon 511 to repair damaged cutters and file with a little Husqvarna file guide in between grindings to keep them sharp. The guide is the type that drops over the top of the chain, the file running on plastic rollers and lets the operator turn the file. This keeps a saw productive but does not throw chips with the raucus abandon of a new loop... So I tried the Timberline.

The first attempt was a Husky 575, 20", full comp. I'd watched the vid and had read the instructions and the first attempt was a clumsy one but I soon got the hang of it. Tighten the two outside screws enough so the sharpener won't move. Snug the center screw up enough so that the burr will go into the cutter easily. Use multiple passes, very lightly on the first and second passes. My first saw took about an hour, fumbling around, trying to find the best work methods but the results were really fine. I have a fresh pile of big balsam poplar in the yard. The chain threw nice, fat, rectangular chips, no masa harina (corn meal.) Next was a 84cc Dolmar, also 20" bar and full comp. It was easier. Best advise I can give is don't hurry. Make multiple light cuts. When I was finished, I cut another poplar cookie. It seemed to cut better than new chain. After that I switched to two climbing saws, Echo 360T's with 12" bars and lo-pro chain. They seemed to me to cut better than they ever had, like they had found an extra 5cc's. The last saw was a Husky 394 with a 28"bar that i use for flushing stumps and dicing cottonwoods, our biggest trees here in N. New Mexico. The full skip chain had some light damage from its last job but three passes later the cutters looked like new and threw chips four feet behind me.

To summarize: The Timberline puts a precise razor-sharp edge on the chain and does it without overheating the steel and annealing it. So the edge should last as log as one on a new loop. I'd recommend using a grinder for serious damage, if you hit a rock or nail, then follow with the Timberline to restore the cutters. I've had guys tell me that they could file a new chain and make it cut better. Now I believe it. Also, I was surprised by how much abrasive residue from the grinder appeared as I was sharpening with the Timberline That's another reason chains don't stay sharp after grinding.

My opinion: This is a good tool.


----------



## wanoyee

Does anyone know the cheapest place to order one?


----------



## Greenland South

wanoyee said:


> Does anyone know the cheapest place to order one?



...Valley.


----------



## heyduke

wanoyee said:


> Does anyone know the cheapest place to order one?



Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener |Sharpen Your Chainsaw

you'll be surprised at the service. i got mine in two days. the postage was cheaper than a trip to town in the f250.


----------



## SierraWoodsman

Heyduke, Good Review.
I also found the results to be "Better" than brand new chain.


----------



## wanoyee

Greenland South said:


> ...Valley.





heyduke said:


> Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener |Sharpen Your Chainsaw
> 
> you'll be surprised at the service. i got mine in two days. the postage was cheaper than a trip to town in the f250.



Well, you're _both_ right! 

Sharpener only... Lee Valley $108.95 is better price
Sharpener w/ 1 extra cutter... Timberline $130.40 is better price

I'm thinking about getting the extra cutter, prices are only going up. Has anyone gone through a cutter yet? How long did they last for you?


----------



## heyduke

SierraWoodsman said:


> Heyduke, Good Review.
> I also found the results to be "Better" than brand new chain.



Thanks! yeah, this gadget is like finding a new duck. it's really made me look at the way i've been sharpening all these years.


----------



## heyduke

wanoyee said:


> Well, you're _both_ right!
> 
> Sharpener only... Lee Valley $108.95 is better price
> Sharpener w/ 1 extra cutter... Timberline $130.40 is better price
> 
> I'm thinking about getting the extra cutter, prices are only going up. Has anyone gone through a cutter yet? How long did they last for you?



i'm not sure, but most of the places i've heard about seem to be forwarding their orders to timberline in idaho for "fulfilment." you can tell because nobody else would have them in your mail box two days later.

I sharpened fifteen or sixteen saws with my first cutters. three of those were lo-pro climbing saws. the rest were 3/8". i damaged the 7/32" cutter by being ham fisted and trying to cut too much too early but i've got my work flow figured out and my second 7/32" should last a long time. i still haven't sharpened the .404 on my 084. i'm a little worried that the cutter won't be long enough to go all the way across. anyway, i'd suggest getting two of your most used cutters with an initial order to get you thru your apprenticeship.


----------



## Currently

heyduke said:


> Last Thursday I ordered the Timberline Sharpener from timberlinesharpener.com. I was surprised to find it was delivered two days later on Saturday morning, excellent service. I also purchased an extra burr, a 5/32" for my climbing saws. Over the weekend I sharpened five saws. Here are my impressions:
> 
> First, I have been sharpening with an electric grinder for about fifteen years. For quite a few of them I would do 15 - 20 saws on Sunday nights to get them ready for a week's work with a tree crew. It has always bothered me that no matter how I tried, I could never get them to cut as well as a new loop and that the edges did not last as long as when they were new. Currently I use an Oregon 511 to repair damaged cutters and file with a little Husqvarna file guide in between grindings to keep them sharp. The guide is the type that drops over the top of the chain, the file running on plastic rollers and lets the operator turn the file. This keeps a saw productive but does not throw chips with the raucus abandon of a new loop... So I tried the Timberline.
> 
> The first attempt was a Husky 575, 20", full comp. I'd watched the vid and had read the instructions and the first attempt was a clumsy one but I soon got the hang of it. Tighten the two outside screws enough so the sharpener won't move. Snug the center screw up enough so that the burr will go into the cutter easily. Use multiple passes, very lightly on the first and second passes. My first saw took about an hour, fumbling around, trying to find the best work methods but the results were really fine. I have a fresh pile of big balsam poplar in the yard. The chain threw nice, fat, rectangular chips, no masa harina (corn meal.) Next was a 84cc Dolmar, also 20" bar and full comp. It was easier. Best advise I can give is don't hurry. Make multiple light cuts. When I was finished, I cut another poplar cookie. It seemed to cut better than new chain. After that I switched to two climbing saws, Echo 360T's with 12" bars and lo-pro chain. They seemed to me to cut better than they ever had, like they had found an extra 5cc's. The last saw was a Husky 394 with a 28"bar that i use for flushing stumps and dicing cottonwoods, our biggest trees here in N. New Mexico. The full skip chain had some light damage from its last job but three passes later the cutters looked like new and threw chips four feet behind me.
> 
> To summarize: The Timberline puts a precise razor-sharp edge on the chain and does it without overheating the steel and annealing it. So the edge should last as log as one on a new loop. I'd recommend using a grinder for serious damage, if you hit a rock or nail, then follow with the Timberline to restore the cutters. I've had guys tell me that they could file a new chain and make it cut better. Now I believe it. Also, I was surprised by how much abrasive residue from the grinder appeared as I was sharpening with the Timberline That's another reason chains don't stay sharp after grinding.
> 
> My opinion: This is a good tool.



Now use a battery powered drill at low range speed setting to drive the carbide tool ...


----------



## Eccentric

heyduke said:


> i'm not sure, but most of the places i've heard about seem to be forwarding their orders to timberline in idaho for "fulfilment." you can tell because nobody else would have them in your mail box two days later.
> 
> I sharpened fifteen or sixteen saws with my first cutters. three of those were lo-pro climbing saws. the rest were 3/8". i damaged the 7/32" cutter by being ham fisted and trying to cut too much too early but i've got my work flow figured out and my second 7/32" should last a long time. i still haven't sharpened the .404 on my 084. i'm a little worried that the cutter won't be long enough to go all the way across. anyway, i'd suggest getting two of your most used cutters with an initial order to get you thru your apprenticeship.



When I borrowed Gologit's Timberline sharpener I used it on a loop of .404 chisel. The cutter was more than long enough to go all the way across. Took a bit of time for me to get the unit square on the bar before starting, as the .404 chain is taller than 3/8" pitch. Had to position the unit pretty high on the bar. Worked well. 

The chain was one of the many ####ed up used loops that I've ended up with on used saws. Was able to un-#### the angles and such on that chain. Throws chips and cuts straight now. I need to get one of those Timberlines, as I'm often undoing other people's crappy file work..........and .404 chain is getting EXPENSIVE.


----------



## wanoyee

I came across an old Gamn sharpener... Looks like the Timberline is designed after it. Does anyone know if the Timberline cutters would fit on an old Gamn?


----------



## gtsawyer

I've got one of both laying around here somewhere. Offhand, I'd say no. Maybe I'll dig around after my real job and see what the similarities are.


----------



## wanoyee

gtsawyer said:


> I've got one of both laying around here somewhere. Offhand, I'd say no. Maybe I'll dig around after my real job and see what the similarities are.



Thanks gtsawyer, would really appreciate it... Let us know.


----------



## heyduke

Eccentric said:


> When I borrowed Gologit's Timberline sharpener I used it on a loop of .404 chisel. The cutter was more than long enough to go all the way across. Took a bit of time for me to get the unit square on the bar before starting, as the .404 chain is taller than 3/8" pitch. Had to position the unit pretty high on the bar. Worked well.
> 
> The chain was one of the many ####ed up used loops that I've ended up with on used saws. Was able to un-#### the angles and such on that chain. Throws chips and cuts straight now. I need to get one of those Timberlines, as I'm often undoing other people's crappy file work..........and .404 chain is getting EXPENSIVE.



I only have one saw with .404 on it, an 084 with a 32" bar. i haven't sharpened that chain yet. i'll probably wait until i need to use it. fortunately i have half a roll of .404 in the shop. i should probably just change the saw over to .375 with a new bar tip.

yes, one thing about the timberline sharpener is it's humbling effect on the filer. my neighbor had some good size siberian elm that he needed to dice and split, thought he was a real stud with a file. i let him use my 272 with a freshly sharpened chain. he's real quiet now.


----------



## wanoyee

gtsawyer said:


> I've got one of both laying around here somewhere. Offhand, I'd say no. Maybe I'll dig around after my real job and see what the similarities are.



Did you ever get around to seeing if the cutters from one would fit another?


----------



## gtsawyer

Not yet - sorry.

I ended up spending a bunch of time giving away a few cord of wood. It's even takes work to _give_ it away.


----------



## gtsawyer

Rooted around in my chainsaw stuff and finally found the two sharpeners - the Gamn and the new Timberline. 

The burs and handles are totally interchangeable. The one photo shows the Gamn bur and handle inserted into the Timberline fixture; works great.

The shaft diameter is .25" for both (or within .001 of each other). The length is very similar too.

Now we know.

View attachment 301223
View attachment 301224


----------



## wanoyee

gtsawyer said:


> Rooted around in my chainsaw stuff and finally found the two sharpeners - the Gamn and the new Timberline.
> 
> The burs and handles are totally interchangeable. The one photo shows the Gamn bur and handle inserted into the Timberline fixture; works great.
> 
> The shaft diameter is .25" for both (or within .001 of each other). The length is very similar too.
> 
> Now we know.
> 
> View attachment 301223
> View attachment 301224



Thanks for taking the time gtsawyer. That's awesome... I had the feeling they would. Just had no confirmation. Does the Gamn or Timberline work better than one another?

Also wondering: How could Timberline get a patent? Esp when the Gamn was patented?


----------



## gtsawyer

A patent is generally for anything that is new and beneficial. It can be a process or a thing. So, if Timberline has made anything new, or is doing something new, then it can be patented. 

The devil is in the details, of course. The patent examiner assigned to a patent application is particularly good at finding out what was done in the past (aka "prior art"), so the patent applicant has to do a fair amount of research before the application and be fairly persuasive in the application. That's why patent attorneys exist - they are hopefully pretty good at both tasks.


----------



## wanoyee

So something *had* to be improved or different (new claim) in the utility for a new patent to be issued to Timberline. I'm only looking at pictures but can't see any new functions that could be claimed. Timberline looks like it works same as Gamn...


----------



## heyduke

wanoyee said:


> So something *had* to be improved or different (new claim) in the utility for a new patent to be issued to Timberline. I'm only looking at pictures but can't see any new functions that could be claimed. Timberline looks like it works same as Gamn...



gamn's patent may have expired. aren't they good for just 20 years with an option to renew? from what i've been reading, with new patent law, a patent is only as good as your legal dept. and can actually be a financial liability due to the depredations of "patent trolls."


----------



## wanoyee

heyduke said:


> gamn's patent may have expired. aren't they good for just 20 years with an option to renew? from what i've been reading, with new patent law, a patent is only as good as your legal dept. and can actually be a financial liability due to the depredations of "patent trolls."



Patents, last I knew, were good for 17 yrs upon regular renewal over the life of the patent. Gamn's patent has to have expired. Tried to find it in USPTO, but there's too much to sift through. Don't know whose name it would be under. Likewise for Timberline. I'm actually wondering if Timberline really has a patent on it. Are there any marks on the sharpener itself that list the patent #? It's supposed to if it's patented and reference should be made in the manual also i.e. patent # or patent pending.

Yes, your patent is only as good as your wallet can defend it... It's also only as good as your patent atty wrote the patent which can be a work of art. Try writing a description of this sharpener so it is detailed enough so that it cannot be copied, but vague enough to cover what any knock-offs would try by altering the utiiity/design. Good patent atty's are worth their money if you have something worth protecting.


----------



## gtsawyer

4,404,871
4,404,872


----------



## heyduke

wanoyee said:


> Patents, last I knew, were good for 17 yrs upon regular renewal over the life of the patent. Gamn's patent has to have expired. Tried to find it in USPTO, but there's too much to sift through. Don't know whose name it would be under. Likewise for Timberline. I'm actually wondering if Timberline really has a patent on it. Are there any marks on the sharpener itself that list the patent #? It's supposed to if it's patented and reference should be made in the manual also i.e. patent # or patent pending.
> 
> Yes, your patent is only as good as your wallet can defend it... It's also only as good as your patent atty wrote the patent which can be a work of art. Try writing a description of this sharpener so it is detailed enough so that it cannot be copied, but vague enough to cover what any knock-offs would try by altering the utiiity/design. Good patent atty's are worth their money if you have something worth protecting.



i just walked down to the shop to check. There is no patent number or "patent pending" silk screened on the timberline sharpener. so i assume there is no patent. i've been reading a little about the new "intellectual property" laws. apparently they further tilt the playing field in favor of large corporations and leave the guy working in his garage even more exposed. basically if you don't have enough money to fight the legal department of a multi-billion dollar enterprise, your patent is worthless or even a liability. then there are the "patent trolls" who jack you up for $40k - $100k to drop their bogus claim, which is cheaper than a lawyer.


----------



## k5alive

looks like this guy got the new portable electric grinder, wonder how it works for him???????? 



https://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&feature=endscreen&v=aVPyV336Fnc


----------



## wanoyee

gtsawyer said:


> 4,404,871
> 4,404,872



These 2 links should take you to the USPTO... lot of reading, images are posted as full print resolution so takes some time getting them to display. Looks like Gamn's patent had 4 other patent references cited. Gamn Patents dated September 20, 1983.

4,404,871

4,404,872

No patent #'s for Timberline? I'm just curious about improvements on Gamn, if any. And yes, wife already thinks I'm a nerd...


----------



## heyduke

gtsawyer said:


> 4,404,871
> 4,404,872



good work gtsawyer, a search by patent numbers show a patent date of sept. 20, 1983. so likely the patents are long expired. the brains behind it seems to be thomas a. fritz from evanville in. he must be a good machinist.


----------



## wanoyee

Abstract for 4,404,872
An attachment is provided for allowing a chain saw sharpener to be used for *filing the depth gauge portions of the cutting links* on the saw chain. The sharpener is of the type comprising a sharpener body in the form of an inverted U-shaped channel-defining member adapted to be placed over the bar of a chain saw, and a rotary burr with an abradant end portion which is receivable in a selected one of two horizontal guide bores provided in the sharpener body. The depth gauge attachment comprises an elongated gauge bar and means for removably affixing the gauge bar within the upper portion of the sharpener body channel so that the gauge bar occupies only a portion of the channel length. The thickness of the gauge bar is such that it causes the saw chain to assume a sufficiently lower position within the sharpener body channel to bring the top of the depth gauge portion of a cutting link into contact with the abradant end portion of the rotary burr when the latter is inserted into a selected one of the two guide bores. A protective hand slide is also provided for allowing the saw chain to be manually advanced during the depth gauge filing operation. 

You can file the depth gauges on the Gamn?


----------



## dooby

I've been working on a similar design(bar mount)depth gauge and square chisel file combo.should have proto finished by this fall. Need to get access to a mill/lathe for a week or two? Trade mark and patents are a hassle and can be expensive on the little guy.


----------



## wanoyee

dooby said:


> Trade mark and patents are a hassle and can be expensive on the little guy.



Do you know about provisional patents?
Provisional Application for Patent

That being said... read this too.
http://www.inc.com/resources/startup/articles/20070701/mlechter.html


----------



## Philbert

dooby said:


> I've been working on a similar design . . Trade mark and patents are a hassle and can be expensive on the little guy.



You might want to consider a partner to handle some of that stuff in exchange for a share of the profits. I know that I would need a good marketing guy if I came up with a good idea/ design. 

Philbert


----------



## dooby

wanoyee said:


> Do you know about provisional patents?
> Provisional Application for Patent
> 
> That being said... read this too.
> Be Careful with Provisional Patent Applications - Patents - IP | Inc.com



Thanks


----------



## dooby

Philbert said:


> You might want to consider a partner to handle some of that stuff in exchange for a share of the profits. I know that I would need a good marketing guy if I came up with a good idea/ design.
> 
> Philbert



finding someone w/money or assets to do this is not that easy. So i have to get it marketable then find a $guy at a trade show, maybe. :cool2:


----------



## Cloud IT

Getting money before you have sales is next to impossible unless you know someone personally.

Very few businesses actually need investor help by the time investors are willing to buy in. The majority of the time the company simply needs better marketing help. Don't give up a large percentage of your successful company due to a fear of marketing.

The most overlooked cost to any business is customer acquisition cost. You need to know how much it cost your company to "buy" a customer and factor that into the equation. Internet marketing makes this simple and should be looked at first. The more unique your product the easier it is to market online.


----------



## dooby

Cloud IT said:


> Getting money before you have sales is next to impossible unless you know someone personally.
> 
> Very few businesses actually need investor help by the time investors are willing to buy in. The majority of the time the company simply needs better marketing help. Don't give up a large percentage of your successful company due to a fear of marketing.
> 
> The most overlooked cost to any business is customer acquisition cost. You need to know how much it cost your company to "buy" a customer and factor that into the equation. Internet marketing makes this simple and should be looked at first. The more unique your product the easier it is to market online.



I am at this very point right now with a few ideas. Something will give. Until then, I will keep lifting stones in search of ........


----------



## dooby

Cloud IT said:


> Getting money before you have sales is next to impossible unless you know someone personally.
> 
> Very few businesses actually need investor help by the time investors are willing to buy in. The majority of the time the company simply needs better marketing help. Don't give up a large percentage of your successful company due to a fear of marketing.
> 
> The most overlooked cost to any business is customer acquisition cost. You need to know how much it cost your company to "buy" a customer and factor that into the equation. Internet marketing makes this simple and should be looked at first. The more unique your product the easier it is to market online.



Looks like its's right up your alley- According to your profile. Maybe you want to help me with acquisition for a huge piece of the pie?LOLopcorn:


----------



## Cloud IT

dooby said:


> Looks like its's right up your alley- According to your profile. Maybe you want to help me with acquisition for a huge piece of the pie?LOLopcorn:



See that's my point. Right now there is no "pie" and there won't be until you can create sales.

I would love to take a product like SS and crush the DR version or to take a great product like the timberline and make it a national brand. There are just so many great products in this niche that just don't get the proper marketing they deserve.

Name one nationally branded company for performance chainsaw tuning. (top result in Google is for tuning a carb with ZERO bids for advertising on that keyword)

How many times have we seen a new product only to say "hey, that was my idea". It takes a special type of person to not only have the idea but then to have the will to start the project and the determination to follow through when everything goes wrong. Smart investors wait until that person has proven they have what it takes.


----------



## dooby

Cloud IT said:


> See that's my point. Right now there is no "pie" and there won't be until you can create sales.
> 
> I would love to take a product like SS and crush the DR version or to take a great product like the timberline and make it a national brand. There are just so many great products in this niche that just don't get the proper marketing they deserve.
> 
> Name one nationally branded company for performance chainsaw tuning. (top result in Google is for tuning a carb with ZERO bids for advertising on that keyword)
> 
> How many times have we seen a new product only to say "hey, that was my idea". It takes a special type of person to not only have the idea but then to have the will to start the project and the determination to follow through when everything goes wrong. Smart investors wait until that person has proven they have what it takes.



I have thought a lot about trying to inc. w/Timberline or get this to a national brand like Granberg,Oregon,Carlton or maybe even Stihl or Husqvarna. Time and patients is were I'm at right now. Still got some improving to do on proto-type. And believe me-I could use some of Corp. America's $$$$.LOL.


----------



## rwoods

*Already done it, but should I have?*

I have not used my Timberline sharpener excessively but nevertheless the aluminum catch was getting real ragged resulting in poor results on the left cutters. I made a new catch out of 3/8" steel key stock. The sharpener is very precise once again. Any significant reason why I should have stayed with aluminum? Ron


New catch installed:







Old catch (sorry for the blurry picture but you can get an idea of the damage:







View attachment 306320
View attachment 306321


----------



## Hulsty

I am about to pull the trigger on one of these, just need some advice on which cutter size. I want to use the same cutter and angle on all my chains, I have a mix of carlton and stihl 3/8''. Should I stick to 7/32″ or 13/64″ cutters to do both?


----------



## Majorpayne

Hulsty said:


> I am about to pull the trigger on one of these, just need some advice on which cutter size. I want to use the same cutter and angle on all my chains, I have a mix of carlton and stihl 3/8''. Should I stick to 7/32″ or 13/64″ cutters to do both?



Yes.


----------



## Gologit

Hulsty said:


> I am about to pull the trigger on one of these, just need some advice on which cutter size. I want to use the same cutter and angle on all my chains, I have a mix of carlton and stihl 3/8''. Should I stick to 7/32″ or 13/64″ cutters to do both?



Both. When the teeth get filed back over half way the 13/64 will probably work better for you.


----------



## heyduke

Hulsty said:


> I am about to pull the trigger on one of these, just need some advice on which cutter size. I want to use the same cutter and angle on all my chains, I have a mix of carlton and stihl 3/8''. Should I stick to 7/32″ or 13/64″ cutters to do both?



if i were going to buy only one size, i would make it 13/64", especially for sharpening stihl chains, which, i think, specify 13/64" files, or any semi-chisel. you get a bit more hook and improved self feeding. the 13/64" burrs should work well on oregon and carlton chains too.

hope this helps.


----------



## matteusz

rwoods said:


> I have not used my Timberline sharpener excessively but nevertheless the aluminum catch was getting real ragged resulting in poor results on the left cutters. I made a new catch out of 3/8" steel key stock. The sharpener is very precise once again. Any significant reason why I should have stayed with aluminum? Ron
> 
> View attachment 306320
> View attachment 306321



Timberline will send you a new one for free! That is the only reason I can think of.

Aluminum is probably used because the stock is cheaper and it is cheaper than steel to machine. Seems like there are plenty of other jigs and such made of steel can't see this being a problem. 

Talked to Timberline this morning and got a current discount code when I mentioned AS. Have been looking for a simple tool like this for some time. Almost ended up with a file guide and a headache till I read the bulk this thread. Thanks to all those that have reviewed the product and provided some great tips. 

In case anyone else is wondering Timberline does not have plans to offer a pro model and does not seem to have any improvements in the works atm. I asked about an additional cut to move the pawl to the other side of the tool and a pro model and he said "Not right now, but check back. There may be something in the future." Too bad there is so much good feedback available from end users here that could make this a more widely sold and used tool. Probably economics are a heavy influence here. Although the changes are simple they are costly to make and for now I am betting cash flow is insufficient for the owner to be wanting to improve his product. Which is ironic since improvements could increase cash flow improve sales and get him to bigger and better business. Oh well I'll leave the business decisions to him. I have some trees to :chainsawguy:


----------



## memory

I have been out cutting wood recently and have been using the timberline sharpener to sharpen the chains. Well, I am having some issues with it. I will get it set up which I am pretty sure is the right way and I will sharpen a few teeth then the top of the teeth will start catching the tool and you can't move the chain until you readjust the tool. When you readjust the tool where it isn't hitting, the cutter is not lined up on the tooth right. Another issue I am having is when I am sharpening the teeth on the outside of the chain, the cutter is coming in contact with the chain stop. It is also real close on the other side as well but does not touch. 

This is on a fairly new Stihl chain that has not seen a whole lot of use yet. I may try to get some pics of what is happening, might be hard since it will be so close up. I thought about taking some material off the tool so the teeth do not catch but I before I do that, I would contact Timberline about this if I don't figure out anything. It is also possible I am not getting it setup right but I don't think that is the case. Has anybody else ran into issues like these? Maybe I need to start a new thread about this.


----------



## Gologit

The only time I've had a problem like yours is trying to sharpen a chain with a lot of different tooth lengths and angles. A hand filed chain will sometimes be so far out of whack that putting it on a sharpener really points out the mistakes that were made.

Check your tooth length and if there's a lot of variance you'll probably have to go over the chain lightly two or three times to get everything back the same again. Once everything on the chain is uniform...cutter length, top plate angle...you'll find the Timberline dead simple to use.

I've been using the Timberline for a couple of years now and I like it. I have a volunteer trail crew made up of weekend warriors and I got another one just for them to use. Their chain sharpening problems and challenges went down to almost nothing when the little gadget showed up.

Be sure the side knobs are tightened well and it shouldn't move on the bar.

[video=youtube;BBJOtkqUnEI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=BBJOtkqUnEI[/video]


----------



## Clarkbug

memory said:


> I have been out cutting wood recently and have been using the timberline sharpener to sharpen the chains. Well, I am having some issues with it. I will get it set up which I am pretty sure is the right way and I will sharpen a few teeth then the top of the teeth will start catching the tool and you can't move the chain until you readjust the tool. When you readjust the tool where it isn't hitting, the cutter is not lined up on the tooth right. Another issue I am having is when I am sharpening the teeth on the outside of the chain, the cutter is coming in contact with the chain stop. It is also real close on the other side as well but does not touch.
> 
> This is on a fairly new Stihl chain that has not seen a whole lot of use yet. I may try to get some pics of what is happening, might be hard since it will be so close up. I thought about taking some material off the tool so the teeth do not catch but I before I do that, I would contact Timberline about this if I don't figure out anything. It is also possible I am not getting it setup right but I don't think that is the case. Has anybody else ran into issues like these? Maybe I need to start a new thread about this.



Make sure the knobs that secure the body of the sharpener are TIGHT. Sounds like you are shifting the tool around and getting hung up. 

Take some pics and post them. What size chain are you sharpening? Is your stop worn down, or did you hit it with the stop? Using standard 30 degree guides?


----------



## memory

Gologit said:


> The only time I've had a problem like yours is trying to sharpen a chain with a lot of different tooth lengths and angles. A hand filed chain will sometimes be so far out of whack that putting it on a sharpener really points out the mistakes that were made.
> 
> Check your tooth length and if there's a lot of variance you'll probably have to go over the chain lightly two or three times to get everything back the same again. Once everything on the chain is uniform...cutter length, top plate angle...you'll find the Timberline dead simple to use.
> 
> I've been using the Timberline for a couple of years now and I like it. I have a volunteer trail crew made up of weekend warriors and I got another one just for them to use. Their chain sharpening problems and challenges went down to almost nothing when the little gadget showed up.
> 
> Be sure the side knobs are tightened well and it shouldn't move on the bar.
> 
> [video=youtube;BBJOtkqUnEI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=BBJOtkqUnEI[/video]



I will check the teeth for variance but I don't think there should be much. This chain is not that old and not been used a whole bunch.



Clarkbug said:


> Make sure the knobs that secure the body of the sharpener are TIGHT. Sounds like you are shifting the tool around and getting hung up.
> 
> Take some pics and post them. What size chain are you sharpening? Is your stop worn down, or did you hit it with the stop? Using standard 30 degree guides?



The knobs are tight. I will try to get some pics. The chain is 3/8 Stihl chain. The stop shouldn't be worn down as I just bought the tool in the past year. I am using the standard guides.


----------



## Gologit

*Timberline vid*

This has been posted before but it's still a good learning tool...








[video=youtube;UnarjvDm_gI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=UnarjvDm_gI[/video]


----------



## jcl

memory said:


> I will check the teeth for variance but I don't think there should be much. This chain is not that old and not been used a whole bunch.
> 
> e knobs are tight. I will try to get some pics. The chain is 3/8 Stihl chain. The stop shouldn't be worn down as I just bought the tool in the past year. I am using the standard guides.






make sure your not being to aggressive trying to cut to much when i first got mine i was trying to do all in one pass noticed tool would move and chain wood be to close on the front our back side now i take lighter cuts and go around twice


----------



## justtools

matteusz said:


> Timberline will send you a new one for free! That is the only reason I can think of.
> 
> .
> 
> Talked to Timberline this morning and got a current discount code when I mentioned AS. Have been looking for a simple tool like this for some time. Almost ended up with a file guide and a headache till I read the bulk this thread. Thanks to all those that have reviewed the product and provided some great tips.
> 
> I
> Mind telling us what the current discount code is? Thanks


----------



## rwoods

Thanks for the tip, Matteusz.

I picked up a Gamn sharpener on eBay. Although it is very nice, I believe the guys at Timberline did a better job. The Gamn has a fixed 35 degree angle and way too many accessories but it does have a pilot pin to center and set how much you are going to cut off. Of course the adjustment is almost useless if your chain is boogered, but on a good chain it should make set up easier - especially if you find yourself sharpening in the dark as I did Friday night. I don't have the pilot pin for 3/8 chain but I may attempt to make one once I get the dimensions. Assuming the teeth are all the same, you can also lower depth guides with the Gamn but I am not sure it is worth the set up time. I think you could do the same with a Timberline if you filed one depth guide to the proper height and set up off of it. Ron 

PS to Bob: Too bad the good part of California is so far away as this worn out weekend warrior would sign up for duty. I'm sure you could teach me a lot more than just sharpening and falling.


----------



## HDRock

matteusz said:


> Timberline will send you a new one for free! That is the only reason I can think of.
> 
> Aluminum is probably used because the stock is cheaper and it is cheaper than steel to machine. Seems like there are plenty of other jigs and such made of steel can't see this being a problem.
> 
> Talked to Timberline this morning and got a current discount code when I mentioned AS. Have been looking for a simple tool like this for some time. Almost ended up with a file guide and a headache till I read the bulk this thread. Thanks to all those that have reviewed the product and provided some great tips.
> 
> In case anyone else is wondering Timberline does not have plans to offer a pro model and does not seem to have any improvements in the works atm. I asked about an additional cut to move the pawl to the other side of the tool and a pro model and he said "Not right now, but check back. There may be something in the future." Too bad there is so much good feedback available from end users here that could make this a more widely sold and used tool. Probably economics are a heavy influence here. Although the changes are simple they are costly to make and for now I am betting cash flow is insufficient for the owner to be wanting to improve his product. Which is ironic since improvements could increase cash flow improve sales and get him to bigger and better business. Oh well I'll leave the business decisions to him. I have some trees to :chainsawguy:



What's the current discount code ?


----------



## Flintknapper

I use mine about every third or fourth 'filing' just to keep things even.

It is not a difficult tool to use...but an unevenly filed chain (teeth different lengths) is going to require some time advancing the stop. IMO....it is best used from the very start on a new chain.

DON'T try to take too big a 'bite' on chain tooth, you will only succeed in lifting it with the carbide cutter.

Also, I don't alternate sharpening teeth. I do all in one direction then switch and do the others, it seems to require less adjusting of the stop.

Getting the fixture the right height (and parallel with the bar) is the trickiest part at first, but you'll get the hang of it pretty quickly.


----------



## Gologit

rwoods said:


> PS to Bob: Too bad the good part of California is so far away as this worn out weekend warrior would sign up for duty. I'm sure you could teach me a lot more than just sharpening and falling.



If you ever get out this way let me know. The trail crews usually work weekends with most of the heavy saw work being done in winter. You're more than welcome to join in.

If I'm still logging, and I really hope I'm not, you're also welcome to hang out. We'll _really_ put you to work.


----------



## confused8122

Hey guys, I am interested in trying this tool, and have heard lots about a arboristsite.com discount, but can't find a code anywhere. Can anyone help me?


----------



## danl

confused8122 said:


> Hey guys, I am interested in trying this tool, and have heard lots about a arboristsite.com discount, but can't find a code anywhere. Can anyone help me?



When I bought mine, I just called and the Phil the owner answered and I asked him if I could have the arborisite discount and he said sure, I gave him my ccard and I had the timberline in 3 days. All the way from Idaho to Missouri.
very fast shipping


----------



## KLK

confused8122 said:


> Hey guys, I am interested in trying this tool, and have heard lots about a arboristsite.com discount, but can't find a code anywhere. Can anyone help me?



You can use ksl5 to get the discount if you order online. :msp_thumbup:


----------



## confused8122

Thanks for the info, I ended up emailing them, they responded by saying they would be happy to give an arboristsite.com member a discount. 
Same code, $20 off.


----------



## BP021

You guys convinced me to order & try. Now I can see just how bad my chain filing was also.


----------



## Philbert

BP021 said:


> You guys convinced me to order & try. Now I can see just how bad my chain filing was also.



Please post your results either way!

It does not have to be an either/or situation: you might use the Timberline to true up your cutters between hand filing (like some guys do with a grinder).

Philbert


----------



## nstueve

I'd be interested to see and use one in person. I just can't believe the hype for this sharpener. I'm sure it works great but when I look around locally on CL I can usually find a tecomec or oregon 511a sharpener for $150. Even if I couldn't find a name brand one, the chinese NT editions work pretty dang good too. And for the few times I would ever need to sharpen in the field, I could use a husky guide ($20 for a flat file, handle, 2 round files, and the jig). They also would have done well to make a 10* angle guide for all the guys that do chainsaw milling. I can see those guys buying one of these to field sharpen their chains a TON! It would also alleviate the need to have 1-2 dozen ripping chains for a days worth of milling, and would also save chainsaw millers the time to swap loops. Some of the chainsaw mills are a huge pain to swap chains out on... Just my 2 cents. 

And if I missed something in the middle of this 30+ page thread I'm sorry but I don't feel then need to invest in that much reading time...

cheers
nate

PS: i'm not saying it's not a good system but the price seems a little exorbitant... $50-$75 maybe... Plus adding the other angle guides pushes this pocket guide closer to the price of a good used grinder. 

Just 2 cents from a guy who doesn't know nothin'.... :msp_mellow:


----------



## Philbert

nstueve said:


> I'd be interested to see and use one in person.



Me too!

I'm happy with the current methods I have for sharpening chains, so I am not likely to buy one. But I am interested in trying one due to all of the positive comments here on A.S. I keep hoping that someone will bring one to a GTG so I can see / try one in person.

Philbert


----------



## Homelite410

One of these make the timberline sharpener work nice.


----------



## half_full

Philbert said:


> Please post your results either way!
> 
> It does not have to be an either/or situation: you might use the Timberline to true up your cutters between hand filing (like some guys do with a grinder).
> 
> Philbert



This is exactly what I do. If I have a full day of cutting planned I use the timberline the day/evening prior. Then in the field I hand sharpen. For rocked chain I use the HF grinder first, then the dremel to shape the lower part of the tooth, then the timberline to finish. Seems like alot but it works for me.

When I first got my timberline I used it exclusively. Then I found I can get a good cut with a touch up via hand file after every tank of fuel.


----------



## rwoods

nstueve said:


> *I'd be interested to see and use one in person. I just can't believe the hype for this sharpener.* I'm sure it works great but when I look around locally on CL I can usually find a tecomec or oregon 511a sharpener for $150. Even if I couldn't find a name brand one, the chinese NT editions work pretty dang good too. And for the few times I would ever need to sharpen in the field, I could use a husky guide ($20 for a flat file, handle, 2 round files, and the jig). They also would have done well to make a 10* angle guide for all the guys that do chainsaw milling. I can see those guys buying one of these to field sharpen their chains a TON! It would also alleviate the need to have 1-2 dozen ripping chains for a days worth of milling, and would also save chainsaw millers the time to swap loops. Some of the chainsaw mills are a huge pain to swap chains out on... Just my 2 cents.
> 
> And if I missed something in the middle of this 30+ page thread I'm sorry but I don't feel then need to invest in that much reading time...
> 
> cheers
> nate
> 
> PS: i'm not saying it's not a good system but the price seems a little exorbitant... $50-$75 maybe... Plus adding the other angle guides pushes this pocket guide closer to the price of a good used grinder.
> 
> Just 2 cents from a guy who doesn't know nothin'.... :msp_mellow:



Not to dissuade you from trying one, but in fairness to the Timberline most of us need a little time fooling with one to get it right. As with all new to us things, some folks get a little more enthusiastic than warranted. Nevertheless, it is a great tool. Whether or not it is the tool for you is another question. If you have a good grinder and you are proficient at hand filing and you either have extra chains or don't mind filing rocked chains or don't do in field sharpening then I would keep my $ in my pocket. If you don't have a grinder and don't have good hand filing skills, I would highly recommend one as they do work well, they are cheaper than a name brand grinder and you can field sharpen. Between these extremes, it is pure personal preference in my book.

Now what I would really like is a less expensive square filing jig.

Ron


----------



## Red Amor

I wonder what sort of timber youd be cutting to feel the need to sharpen at each refill


----------



## half_full

Red Amor said:


> I wonder what sort of timber youd be cutting to feel the need to sharpen at each refill



I cut all types of local wood species for firewood. About 15-20 face cord per year. 
not a sharpening, just a touch up. 1 or 2 strokes of the file per tooth at each fill up is much easier than bringing back a dull chain.


----------



## olyman

Red Amor said:


> I wonder what sort of timber youd be cutting to feel the need to sharpen at each refill



timber that is close to a field,,CAN, tend to have a lot of dirt blown into the bark..chains dislike that...................


----------



## avason

I'm getting one for my birthday.:big_smile:


----------



## MindFork

KLK said:


> You can use ksl5 to get the discount if you order online. :msp_thumbup:


Thanks for the code. I just ordered mine with 13/64 and 3/8 cutters. Looking forward to having a sharp chain every time I hack away on the firewood pile.


----------



## Icepack

How about some diamond cutters for carbide chains?


----------



## BP021

Philbert said:


> Please post your results either way!
> 
> It does not have to be an either/or situation: you might use the Timberline to true up your cutters between hand filing (like some guys do with a grinder).
> 
> Philbert



I had 2 Oregon chains 20" & 2 Stihl 24" chains that were bought together. I took 1 of each brand & had sharpened by grinder & the other 2 I used my Timberline. I was shocked that the Timberline chains held up very good vs the ground chains. I also had 2 old beat up chains with very little life left to them & had same thing done, the ground chain won by far. Had I more patience then maybe I could've done a better job. 

What I found to be best way tho, is to sharpen the chain more frequently, & it stays as sharp as if it were new. And it takes just a few minutes. By far this tool is the easiest way I've found to sharpen chains.


----------



## srb08

BP021 said:


> I had 2 Oregon chains 20" & 2 Stihl 24" chains that were bought together. I took 1 of each brand & had sharpened by grinder & the other 2 I used my Timberline. I was shocked that the Timberline chains held up very good vs the ground chains. I also had 2 old beat up chains with very little life left to them & had same thing done, the ground chain won by far. Had I more patience then maybe I could've done a better job.
> 
> What I found to be best way tho, is to sharpen the chain more frequently, & it stays as sharp as if it were new. And it takes just a few minutes. By far this tool is the easiest way I've found to sharpen chains.



With beat up chains, I've found that multiple passes works best.


----------



## Magnumitis

For $30, these work great.


----------



## CoolCat44

*just got mine!*

While waiting for delivery, I was keeping aside a couple chain for sharpening, then the Timbeline got here. Finally! What a nice quality tool!

Figuring how to make adjustment for the height, took me a coupe of tries. However, everything else is pretty idiot proof (hope not to insult!?!)

My 2 cents: For post-war chain, I will still be using my file, for end of life and almost worn out, still my good old 13/64 hand file + Stihl guide, but for light touch up Timberline is by far the best tool. And for regular sharpening also Timberline is pretty hard to bet.

Two thumbs up Timberline!


----------



## OLD MAN GRINDER

Got mine last week and just got a chance to use it today, sharpened the chain on my 660, 32" and the chain on my ms310 20", easy to use no problems, don't know if i took enough off or not but chains were not in real bad shape and i had just sharpened the 20" last week so just touched it up, if i am using it right it just sharpens the edge of the tooth and does not leave a shiny surface like when i hand sharpen, have a lot more chains to do but will hold off until i get a chance to put the ones i just did in some wood to see the results....overall pleased right now....will update later..

Bob....


----------



## MGoBlue

I definitely didn't get 40 sharpenings w/ my 7/32. I just emailed Timberline to see if I'm a minority with this prematurely worn cutter. I'm no rookie to using tools... I never rotated it in the wrong direction and I didn't take overly aggressive bites. In hind site would I take less, yes but this is a tungsten carbide cutter. Nothing I did should have caused such excess wear. I'll reply when I hear back via email.


----------



## 7sleeper

Not suprised. But at the price it costs you should expect more.

How many sharpenings did you get?

7


----------



## shootingarts

OLD MAN GRINDER said:


> Got mine last week and just got a chance to use it today, sharpened the chain on my 660, 32" and the chain on my ms310 20", easy to use no problems, don't know if i took enough off or not but chains were not in real bad shape and i had just sharpened the 20" last week so just touched it up, if i am using it right it just sharpens the edge of the tooth and does not leave a shiny surface like when i hand sharpen, have a lot more chains to do but will hold off until i get a chance to put the ones i just did in some wood to see the results....overall pleased right now....will update later..
> 
> Bob....


 


MGoBlue said:


> I definitely didn't get 40 sharpenings w/ my 7/32. I just emailed Timberline to see if I'm a minority with this prematurely worn cutter. I'm no rookie to using tools... I never rotated it in the wrong direction and I didn't take overly aggressive bites. In hind site would I take less, yes but this is a tungsten carbide cutter. Nothing I did should have caused such excess wear. I'll reply when I hear back via email.


 

Their reply should be interesting. With the magnification your images indicate the teeth on the cutter is chipped and broken, not worn and dull. That doesn't mean the damage was your fault but I do wonder if they are going to make that claim or not.

Hu


----------



## avason

I should be getting mine next week. What are you guys doing about the rakers?


----------



## Clarkbug

avason said:


> I should be getting mine next week. What are you guys doing about the rakers?



Flat file and a raker gauge. The TL doesnt have anything special on it for those.


----------



## OLD MAN GRINDER

Clarkbug said:


> Flat file and a raker gauge. The TL doesnt have anything special on it for those.



DITTO..

Bob....


----------



## MGoBlue

I didn't count how many times I sharpened with that cutter. I'd guess 25-30.

I use the Husky file guide for rakers.


----------



## MGoBlue

Here is the reply:

_Thank you for the feedback. One tip that should prevent the wear you experienced is to take only a small amount of material off at a time. On badly worn chains you may need to make a couple passes. Also, you can first remove any burrs or rough edges that may bind the carbide by leaving the side screws loose. This is just to seat the chain then go through the chain and sharpen as you normally would. This should eliminate the chipping you had from the pictures.Hope that helps.
Thanks,
Phil 
_

I'm just posting for the benefit of the members here. Hopefully someone learns from my experience. If you rock a chain, use a hand file first to remove the burr. That's the only thing I can think of that may have cause my issue. I love the Timberline and wouldn't hesitate to buy one again.


----------



## greg986547

I had the same experience with what I feel is premature carbide wear. This is a well made, quality tool and works well if..... you are sharpening chain that is "wood dull" only with cutters of nearly equal length to start with. My Timberline will be posted on the classifieds in a few minutes. sharpened two chains with it


----------



## avason

greg986547 said:


> I had the same experience with what I feel is premature carbide wear. This is a well made, quality tool and works well if..... you are sharpening chain that is "wood dull" only with cutters of nearly equal length to start with. My Timberline will be posted on the classifieds in a few minutes. sharpened two chains with it


That's to bad...My should be coming in tomorrow. Would have bought yours.


----------



## avason

I'm sure you'll get a buyer from here shortly.


----------



## Gologit

avason said:


> I'm sure you'll get a buyer from here shortly.



No doubt. I've bought two for my volunteer trail crews. 15 minutes of explanation and demonstration and those guys, most of whom had little or no experience, are now sharpening chains like they ought to be.

The Timberline is dead simple to use and it works. If you have a badly rocked chain a couple of swipes with a hand file will lessen or eliminate any chance of scoring the carbide bit. I haven't kept track of how many sharpenings I get from one bit but it's a lot and more than enough to justify the cost.


----------



## shootingarts

greg986547 said:


> I had the same experience with what I feel is premature carbide wear. This is a well made, quality tool and works well if..... you are sharpening chain that is "wood dull" only with cutters of nearly equal length to start with. My Timberline will be posted on the classifieds in a few minutes. sharpened two chains with it


 
I have a somewhat similar tool used to cut the lugs on a 1911 barrel. Works well for that.

I kinda suspect that the hardchrome layer of some chain teeth is rolling up in a burr creating a thicker piece at the angle of attack that is almost as hard or even harder than the carbide. I don't know the hardness of either offhand. Having to keep a spare carbide cutter on hand and buying a few replacements would take all the fun out of owning this tool for me.

Hu


----------



## memory

This may seem like a crazy and stupid idea but has anybody tried putting the cutters in some kind of small drill like a dremel or a rotary tool instead of hand cranking it? I don't know about you guys but my arm starts to get sore after a few passes. Sometimes I will do more than one chainsaw at a time and have to make a couple passes on some of those saws.

I do realize this couldn't be done out in the field but alot of times, I sharpen in between wood cutting since we normally don't spend all day cutting. I keep thinking of what would work and realize a cordless drill probably wouldn't work. Your arms would get just as tired from holding weight of the drill the whole time. I don't think a dremel would work because it has to be a special bit for it to work with a dremel. It would also have to be variable speed as well. I don't think you would want to spin it very fast. Surely there is something that would work with this and surely I am not the only one that has thought about this.


----------



## Currently

memory said:


> This may seem like a crazy and stupid idea but has anybody tried putting the cutters in some kind of small drill like a dremel or a rotary tool instead of hand cranking it? I don't know about you guys but my arm starts to get sore after a few passes. Sometimes I will do more than one chainsaw at a time and have to make a couple passes on some of those saws.
> 
> I do realize this couldn't be done out in the field but alot of times, I sharpen in between wood cutting since we normally don't spend all day cutting. I keep thinking of what would work and realize a cordless drill probably wouldn't work. Your arms would get just as tired from holding weight of the drill the whole time. I don't think a dremel would work because it has to be a special bit for it to work with a dremel. It would also have to be variable speed as well. I don't think you would want to spin it very fast. Surely there is something that would work with this and surely I am not the only one that has thought about this.



Just about every post on this subject, I mention using a battery powered drill on the low speed setting. I am approaching a hundred sharpenings with the first bit. 

As for the previous poster chipping his carbide bit ... he was trying to bite off more than the bit can handle at that critical stage where the bit and chain tooth align for the final sharpening stage. This is where one has to let the bit work its way climbing to the straight part of the shaft. He needed to back off the amount of material removed for that pass. 

My bit does have a couple chips broken off at the same place yet it still sharpens very well. Carbide is brittle, yet if you feed it gently, would not be surprised to see well over a hundred sharpenings per bit.


----------



## memory

What size drill do you use? The only drill I have at the moment is a Dewalt 18volt, I figured that would be kind of heavy and cumbersome to use when trying to be that precise.


----------



## Currently

memory said:


> What size drill do you use? The only drill I have at the moment is a Dewalt 18volt, I figured that would be kind of heavy and cumbersome to use when trying to be that precise.



9.6 volt Makita. It has a hi and lo speed setting and I run it on low.


----------



## memory

How does the carbide cutter turn in that drill? Is there any wobble to it? I have an 18volt Dewalt and since the chuck is not holding on to much of the cutter's shank, it does not spin perfectly true. I am not sure how much it will affect the outcome.

I really don't want to spend alot of money on another drill just to use for this tool. But then again, I am not sure how a cheap Harbor freight drill would work either. I also hate the idea of having another set of batteries if I went with a cordless drill.

Do they make a dremel or similar type tool with an adjustable chuck?


----------



## Currently

Chuck has 3 jaws, I rotate and tighten the bit to avoid the flat spot. 

No wobble what so ever.


----------



## memory

Mine has the 3 jaws as well and I avoid the flat spot but it still does not spin it perfectly true. The wobble is not bad but enough that I don't know if I want to try to sharpen with it. I don't know if the chuck is messed up or not. If I put the cutter as far down into the chuck as it will go, it spins perfectly true with no wobble at all. Maybe it just needs to be rotated to a certain place in the chuck so it doesn't wobble.


----------



## danl

I was having trouble getting my TImberline set level and came up with the idea of using a feeler gauge. On 3/8 Oregon chain DG72 I am using a 13/64 carbide and gapping .095" above the cutters at the front and back. I have been taking very little off on two passes and it is the best I have been able to sharpen a chain in my whole 56 years.

I haven't tried the feeler gauge on a different size chain or with 7/32 or 3/16 carbides yet.


----------



## avason

I'm happy with mine...takes a bitter longer than sharpening the regular way, but at least I know that it is true. definitely a learning curve


----------



## danl

I 'm afraid if I use a drill I will wallow out the aluminum guides. I would like to find a cordless Dremel type tool that would chuck the carbide cutter and go super slow.


----------



## OLD MAN GRINDER

Got my timberline about a month ago, sharpened my 660 chain and my 310 chain on the saws, finally got a big
stump job that needed some cut down and got a chance to use the newly sharpened chains, don't know what
i did wrong but the 660 would not cut hot butter, the 310 cut good enough to get some stumps done, but when
i went to get the 660 for some big stumps, didn't go 2 inches into the stump and no farther, don't know what
i did wrong but had to go to the truck and put on a new chain to finish stumps, going to put an old bar in the
vise today and try again to see what i am doing wrong, really confused at this point....


Bob......


----------



## Sean80

OLD MAN GRINDER said:


> Got my timberline about a month ago, sharpened my 660 chain and my 310 chain on the saws, finally got a big
> stump job that needed some cut down and got a chance to use the newly sharpened chains, don't know what
> i did wrong but the 660 would not cut hot butter, the 310 cut good enough to get some stumps done, but when
> i went to get the 660 for some big stumps, didn't go 2 inches into the stump and no farther, don't know what
> i did wrong but had to go to the truck and put on a new chain to finish stumps, going to put an old bar in the
> vise today and try again to see what i am doing wrong, really confused at this point....
> 
> 
> Bob......


Did you take the rakers down? Maybe you have a burr on your bar.


----------



## OLD MAN GRINDER

Sean80 said:


> Did you take the rakers down? Maybe you have a burr on your bar.


 
I think I fig out the problem,,,the chains were never sharpened and set 13/64 and I am using a 7/32 so I had to reset each tooth twice to get them at 7/32, took a while but they are cutting great now, the timberline takes some time to get used to using, having some trouble keeping the knobs tight against the bar but overall I think I have it figured out. since I now have the teeth at 7/32 should not be a problem on the next sharpening....

Bob.....


----------



## elggod

i bought my timberline sharpener about 2 month's ago.....love it!! the only issue i had with it was the absence of a second chain guide clip to help hold the chain tooth
perfectly vertical.......the carbide cutter's the way they are designed pull the chain tooth towards the carbide cutter and the tooth wind's up being tipped....the way i resolved this was by adding another guide clip...work's perfect now.......... the teeth are held in the exact same position every time


----------



## w8ye

What about some pictures of your modification?


----------



## elggod

here are some pic's......it wasn't an easy 5 minute fix......some machining involved......i am fortunate to have a mill and a lathe.....the hardest part is the groove for the clip to sit in....that had to be done by hand with a file.... pic's aren't great but it'll give you the idea


----------



## jwade

elggod said:


> here are some pic's......it wasn't an easy 5 minute fix......some machining involved......i am fortunate to have a mill and a lathe.....the hardest part is the groove for the clip to sit in....that had to be done by hand with a file.... pic's aren't great but it'll give you the idea


wow that is an amazing job. i too noticed that the chain was not being held as securely as needed but not nearly smart enough to figure out a remedey. really professional job, maybe the company might consider compensating you for a patent update.


----------



## avason

I'm not really satisfied with mine. I've gone back to hand sharpening and figured out that I'm not to bad at sharpening at all. Good tool but it seems that it isn't a good fit for me.


----------



## Philbert

avason said:


> I'm not really satisfied with mine. I've gone back to hand sharpening and figured out that I'm not to bad at sharpening at all. Good tool but it seems that it isn't a good fit for me.


List it in the Trading Post - there are a lot of guys who would be interested in trying one. 

Philbert


----------



## avason

Good Idea...I'll try it out.


----------



## elggod

danl said:


> I was having trouble getting my TImberline set level and came up with the idea of using a feeler gauge. On 3/8 Oregon chain DG72 I am using a 13/64 carbide and gapping .095" above the cutters at the front and back. I have been taking very little off on two passes and it is the best I have been able to sharpen a chain in my whole 56 years.
> 
> I haven't tried the feeler gauge on a different size chain or with 7/32 or 3/16 carbides yet.




i found that one of those big plastic zip ties about .297 wide and .070 thick are just about right for .325 chain


----------



## Darrelli

I'm running WoodlandPro 20NK .325 x .50 semi-chisel chain that has a 35 degree angle, to cut mostly oak. Would I be better off using the standard Timberline 30 degree angle guide because of the hard wood, or get the 35 degree angle guide?


----------



## elggod

Timberline 30 degree angle will work just fine....


----------



## snoozeys

From what I've seen they are a few hundred dollars


----------



## jcl

There just over a hundred after discount


----------



## snoozeys

Where from ???


----------



## jcl

heyduke said:


> Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener |Sharpen Your Chainsaw
> 
> Bought direct from them the code discounts in timberline magazine every month $15-25 off they change time to time


----------



## jcl

Code. TLMZ. This month $15. Off


----------



## fxbill

Hi,
New to the group from a search on GAMN operating instructions. The Timberline is close enough. I just picked up 2 GAMN sharpeners off eBay for a very reasonable price and since my neighbor wanted one for his saw it worked out perfectly. I very much like the mods done adding the second set screw to the device. The GAMN doesn't seem to need it....or so that I've seen yet, but it could be added to that as well quite easily. The one thing that I like about the unit I have is the set shaft that is detented for the initial setup of the device. Slip it in, slide the tooth until the shaft is in the tooth cutout and lock it down. It does a great job of correctly setting the height and initial cut depth. I'm surprised that the Timberline did not use that as well since it seems to be a great feature. I am pleased, however, that the Timberline cutters will correctly fit the GAMN. I was rather concerned about it when purchasing them. I tried to locate the old owner... James Shrode...to see if I could find a set of instructions for the unit.... I can use it just fine, but it would be nice to have them anyway. If anyone here has the instructions for one of these I'd greatly appreciate it if they could be scanned and uploaded or if I could be emailed.
Thanks.......and a great group here! Had I not retired from the film industry in Hollywood, moved back to a lakehouse near Atlanta and just have 2 70 ft trees snap in a heavy wind into my back yard I'd have never looked! Surprising at almost 70 that I can still cut over 140 ft of 22" diameter trees in just several days.....( I didn't walk too well the next few days, but didn't have to pay to have it done for me either! The newer chain saws are a lot lighter now and the vibration dampeners work really well...)
Thanks again for the wealth of information!
BTW.... The lake was so stirred up from the "straight line tornado" that I was filming it when the trees came down....one snapped about 8 ft up and the other simply uprooted. I posted them on youtube so my daughter could see it. The videos seemed to get a bit screwed up from uploading them...( they're perfect on my camera, but not so great on line), but it'll give you an idea of just how bad the storm was....and my poor canoe that was hit and got folded inside out when it was hit!


----------



## Philbert

Welcome to A.S.!

_"The one thing that I like about the unit I have is the set shaft that is detented for the initial setup of the device. Slip it in, slide the tooth until the shaft is in the tooth cutout and lock it down. It does a great job of correctly setting the height and initial cut depth. I'm surprised that the Timberline did not use that as well since it seems to be a great feature."_

Can you post a photo or short video of this feature?

Philbert


----------



## fxbill

These photos aren't the best, but what I could get quickly. One additional thing....This unit, old as it is, has steel bushings for the pin and carbide cutter holes. Even this dated the unit has no play whatsoever in the pin guides and if it ever did they could be pressed out and replaced. Notice the offset on the guide pin. When it is placed in the guide and rotated to where the detent falls into the body of the device the pin lines up exactly where the cutter should be cutting so if you leave the unit somewhat loose on the bar and insert the guide pin and allow it to enter a cutting tooth it will automatically give you the correct height for bar mounting and put you exactly where the cutter will be cutting. It's a simple thing to add to the Timberline....aside from making the correct offset pins the detent in the body can milled in moments.
Also... I didn't show a photo of the cutter, but it is exactly like the Timberline.....or rather the Timberline is exactly like the GAMN and the one that came with this unit is virtually unused. For a unit that is 30 years old it is in remarkably good shape with no play or sloppiness in anything on the unit!
The only drawbacks to the unit from the Timberline that I can see is that you are restricted to the 30 degree cut and the chain stop does not have a micrometer adjustment. You slide it to the correct position and then lock it down with another thumbscrew. Once set it's fine, but the micrometer adjustment does allow for a fine increment of increasing your cut if needed. This hasn't been a problem for me, but it's not as precise to make minute adjustments.


Notice the offset of the pin end and it is the exact diameter of the cutter



This shows the detent in the pin's head aligning it to the correct cutting height


This shows the detent in the unit's body. When the pin is in the detent and also in the cutting tooth of the chain the unit is at the correct height and the stop for the chain can also be set.


This shows the other pin and cutter guide. Also you can see the steel insert ( I believe it is stainless steel) which after 30 years still has no slop or play to it at all. If need be though it could easily be pressed out and a new one installed.


This shows the alignment pin installed with the detent on the head in place.
Sorry about the appearance of the unit, but it just arrived today and I haven't put it in the ultrasonic cleaner or even brushed it off yet..... For $20 you can't beat it though....the entire unit for less than the cost of the cutter! I'd love to own a Timberline, but I like a couple of the features of this one better and also couldn't justify paying that much for one when I'd only be using it several times a year!


----------



## rwoods

Pages may be out of order but here is the Gamn OM. I wish I had a size #2 Set-up pin. I have a #1. Ron

 Can't upload a file.


----------



## rwoods

Can't upload a file to a PM either. Sorry, Ron


----------



## fxbill

I don't mind my email addy being here..... it's fxbillxxxxx Sorry.... I'd let you have one, but I only have the 1 and the 3! If you don't mind buying the cutter as well I believe there's one on eBay right now...brand new in the package with the cutter, pin and chain dragger.
Whoops..... my mistake.....it's a number 3 and the auction ended today, but I'm sure he'll be relisting. It didn't sell...
A decent machinist could take a 3 down to a 2 though.....
By the way....here's a clean GAMN!


----------



## rwoods

Is that yours or just a picture? The OM in the picture looks to be the same I scanned. I'll try to email you a scan but not sure if I can from the home computer. Ron


----------



## fxbill

No.... I wish I had found it! It sold a couple of weeks ago for $44 complete. I would have jumped all over it! Yes.... If you could try to email the file I'd certainly appreciate it.....or possibly upload it to rapidshare or some other free site. I know a number of people looking to find the instructions.


----------



## fxbill

If your scanner will save in PDF format that might be the best way....
I'm going to pull my email now since I'm sure you have it at this point...
Thanks again!


----------



## rwoods

I saved it to PDF. Just can't figure out how to get it to you. For some reason I can't upload a file tonight on AS. Family member has messed up email from this computer. Maybe I can find time to scan it at work and send it to you or maybe this site will start working again. Ron


----------



## rwoods

Changed browsers but can't respond to your PM but it seems I can upload - go figure. Ron


----------



## rwoods

rwoods said:


> Changed browsers but can't respond to your PM but it seems I can upload - go figure. Ron


----------



## rwoods

Weird stuff here. Can't upload from Firefox and can't download from Explorer. Nonetheless I think you got it all. Ron


----------



## fxbill

Thank you very much Ron. I'll keep a lookout for a #2 alignment pin. If I can even find another #3 I can have one of the studio machinists make it into a 2 for you. I'll just need the diameter of the #2, but I'm sure I can find it out from measuring the ones I have compared to the cutter size. After that it's a simple job for a cnc mill.
Perfect.... Got them all and the resolution is great. Thank you Ron!!!!


----------



## fxbill

Ahhh... I didn't realize that with the depth bar you can use the carbide cutter to adjust the raker height as well! I did get the bar with both of my units, but wasn't sure what it was for.....I've just been using the slotted guide with a flat file that's available for just a few bucks. I might just stay with that for the rakers since I'd hate to use the carbide cutter just for trimming them.....the flat file does those quickly with the slotted guide and can be replaced much less expensively. It's nice to know that the GAMN will do it though......that's one more thing that it does that the Timberline doesn't although it's not a biggy. I just like the solid feel and weight of it. You get a feeling that it will last a lifetime.....and to think this entire kit was only $20 in the 80's....and tool prices haven't inflated that much since then.


----------



## snoozeys

They stopped making them years ago but I did find a used one in ebay


----------



## fxbill

There have been quite a few of them sold on eBay in the past several weeks and most of them were in quite nice shape....all going in the range of $40-$60 ....some complete with carrying case and multiple size cutters and pins. My first unit was around $50 complete....my second...and I just bought it for a spare, was the $20 unit I pictured above, but for $20 including the pin and cutter you can't beat it....and it will clean up nicely if I put a bit of time into it....the worst feature being the oxidation on the stop wedge. That's come off easily and looks worse in the photo than it really is.
I'm actually looking for a couple more of them for neighbors here who have saws. We all have electric bench sharpeners, but it's nice to have something that you can use in the field, on the spot and without having to remove the chain. You tend to keep your chain sharper if you have something you can use quickly to touch it up every now and then while using the saw and not putting it off until you pull the chain and have time later on.
This is my other unit...


----------



## snoozeys

I tested my rakers on some logs today ... cuts so much better since I cut them but it's cutting to the left slightly grrr


----------



## IanB22

Just tried the Timberline, and it is SOOO nice...and honestly, my struggles with the file, and getting my saw to cut straight were pretty much solved for the 20" bar using a file and practice. Also the Grandberg sharpener I got at christmas was also very helpful. BUT NOTHING could get my 42" bar to cut straight. At least not on big wood, anything over 25" will always have some kind of curve to it. 

My experience with the Timerbline has been very good, but you STILL need a really good 'feel' for how your teeth should look after sharpening. Mine for instance didn't have enough gullet to create the right 60 deg. angle to the tooth. I sharpened everything up, being very gentle and I have found that the micro-adjust is a really good feature for me, I just kept going around and around the chain taking more and more off until every tooth was the same length. However, I do find that for initial sharpening, you need to pay attention to the length of the tooth.

The gullet of my tooth was to high, and not deep enough from hand sharpening and using the Grandberg and so it was a bad starting point for the timberline. It took a while to get the tooth re-shaped for a chain that is about 75% used. Probably took off about 15-20% of the 'long' teeth to get down to the same length as the 'short' teeth. I will take a video and post it for those who want to see how the sharpener works for people new and try to explain the art of setting up your cutting tooth to be the correct angle, height, and length.


----------



## Metals406

Tooth length won't effect you as much if you buy a Carlton file-o-plate to set your stops/rakers. It sets each stop/tooth length to the optimum angle of attack.

Result: Tooth length variances doesn't pull you out of square.


----------



## Philbert

Metals406 said:


> Tooth length won't effect you as much if you buy a Carlton file-o-plate to set your stops/rakers. It sets each stop/tooth length to the optimum angle of attack.



But tooth _length_ also correlates with tooth _height_ and _set_ (kerf width). If teeth are not the same length, the cut will not be a smooth, and not all of the teeth will be participating equally. If all of the cutters on one side are longer than all of the cutters on the other, I could see where that could pull the chain to one side.

Philbert


----------



## fxbill

Sure do love the looks of the Timberline....but here's the $20 GAMN after a little cleanup and some new thumb screws....seems to work great for my needs!


----------



## IanB22

I agree, it's a good deal on the Gamn, but I purchased to get something more recent, and liked the ability to return or ask questions to a modern company. May not be the same for everyone, but that's why I bought the updated one. FWIW.


----------



## Metals406

Philbert said:


> But tooth _length_ also correlates with tooth _height_ and _set_ (kerf width). If teeth are not the same length, the cut will not be a smooth, and not all of the teeth will be participating equally. If all of the cutters on one side are longer than all of the cutters on the other, I could see where that could pull the chain to one side.
> 
> Philbert


Everything you say is true. But fir irregular tooth length -- the file-o-plate works.

I tested it on the last fire cutting big timber. The chain never once tried to divert. Made a believer outta me.


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## snoozeys

That's why I plan on buying a timberline once I get some spare cash


----------



## heyduke

IanB22 said:


> Just tried the Timberline, and it is SOOO nice...and honestly, my struggles with the file, and getting my saw to cut straight were pretty much solved for the 20" bar using a file and practice. Also the Grandberg sharpener I got at christmas was also very helpful. BUT NOTHING could get my 42" bar to cut straight. At least not on big wood, anything over 25" will always have some kind of curve to it.
> 
> My experience with the Timerbline has been very good, but you STILL need a really good 'feel' for how your teeth should look after sharpening. Mine for instance didn't have enough gullet to create the right 60 deg. angle to the tooth. I sharpened everything up, being very gentle and I have found that the micro-adjust is a really good feature for me, I just kept going around and around the chain taking more and more off until every tooth was the same length. However, I do find that for initial sharpening, you need to pay attention to the length of the tooth.
> 
> The gullet of my tooth was to high, and not deep enough from hand sharpening and using the Grandberg and so it was a bad starting point for the timberline. It took a while to get the tooth re-shaped for a chain that is about 75% used. Probably took off about 15-20% of the 'long' teeth to get down to the same length as the 'short' teeth. I will take a video and post it for those who want to see how the sharpener works for people new and try to explain the art of setting up your cutting tooth to be the correct angle, height, and length.



the first time you use a timberline sharpener on a chain that has been filed is a sobering and humbling experience. it's always a mess. if i need to sharpen a chain that has been filed i use my grinder first, paying close attention to the shape of the wheel, cutter angles, cutter length and gullet depth. that way i don't waste time and wear on the carbide to even the chain and get things back to spec. once the chain has been sharpened with the timberline, it never sees the grinder again unless it encounters a rock or nail. the timberline is the best way that i have found for keeping a chain very sharp, but it's a lousy tool for fixing a damaged or poorly maintained chain. also, you nailed it. the best technique is to take multiple passes making light cuts, especially the first time you sharpen a chain. the file-o-plate is a good tool, but hard to find. for cutter length i use a digital or vernier calliper. to measure depth gauge height and angle i use a husqvarna roller guide. to measure side plate angle, i use my eyeball. we'll be looking for your vid.


----------



## Philbert

heyduke said:


> . . . the timberline is the best way that i have found for keeping a chain very sharp, but it's a lousy tool for fixing a damaged or poorly maintained chain.




Thanks Duke, that's very helpful. As noted, I have never used the Timberline sharpener, but relied on the comments in threads like this.

User comments have been mostly positive. But your comment on maintaining a chain versus bringing back a rocked chain are the kind of user insight that help people make good choices on what method to use.

Thanks.

Philbert


----------



## heyduke

Philbert said:


> Thanks Duke, that's very helpful. As noted, I have never used the Timberline sharpener, but relied on the comments in threads like this.
> 
> User comments have been mostly positive. But your comment on maintaining a chain versus bringing back a rocked chain are the kind of user insight that help people make good choices on what method to use.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Philbert



philbert-

thanks for the affirmation. after this year's firewood missions are over i want to start a thread i mentioned earlier, chains brought to me for sharpening, before and after. by the way, i think you're also interested in the resin based sharpening wheels. i've switched over to them and have been fairly pleased. you have to dress them a lot and they probably won't last as long as conventional wheels, but they do keep the grinding area cooler. another thing, regarding files and filing. in my youth, i worked for quite a while as a ringmaker for a jewellery manufacturer on post street, in san fransico, eight hours a day filing gold and platinum castings, silver soldering and sizing. so i know my way around a file, filled up a few mason jars with filings. but i seldom use a file on saw chain.

regarding the timberline, if i don't hit anything a sharpening is good for ten to twelve run hours and could go a lot more but i like a scary sharp chain. so, at the end of a work day i open a cerveza and clamp the bar in a vice, put the timberline on the bar and the job is finished before the cool one. it works for me.


----------



## Philbert

heyduke said:


> by the way, i think you're also interested in the resin based sharpening wheels. i've switched over to them and have been fairly pleased.



Thanks for the affirmation on those!
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/resinoid-grinder-wheels.256733/

BTW- Bailey's now has those in stock for much less than I was able to source them locally.
http://www.baileysonline.com/shop.axd/ProductDetails?edp_no=662811
http://www.baileysonline.com/shop.axd/ProductDetails?edp_no=662812

I think that I want to have a chain sharpening GTG! Bring all the grinders; all the jigs; all the files; home-made vises; a few PowerSharp chains; etc. Maybe have short tutorials on: setting up a grinder; filing square; spinning and breaking; how to file a race chain; etc.

Philbert


----------



## heyduke

Philbert said:


> Thanks for the affirmation on those!
> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/resinoid-grinder-wheels.256733/
> 
> BTW- Bailey's now has those in stock for much less than I was able to source them locally.
> http://www.baileysonline.com/shop.axd/ProductDetails?edp_no=662811
> http://www.baileysonline.com/shop.axd/ProductDetails?edp_no=662812
> 
> I think that I want to have a chain sharpening GTG! Bring all the grinders; all the jigs; all the files; home-made vises; a few PowerSharp chains; etc. Maybe have short tutorials on: setting up a grinder; filing square; spinning and breaking; how to file a race chain; etc.
> 
> Philbert



as they say in minnesota, "ya," i read your post about resinoid grinder wheels right after you posted it. afterwards i looked around and found the one place, at the time, to buy them. of course, now they're available from baileys.com . i will be using the resinoid wheels to maintain the chains in our village and the adjacent areas. i'd have to charge more than the price of a new chain to repair/restore a chain filed by an "expert" filer, with my timberline. the GTG concept is interesting. ok, dude, give me the 72 dl chain you just sharpened. i'll put in on my 372 and we'll put the stop watch and video cam on it in the Big Test Log. i'm up for that.


----------



## Sully boy

Put a file in a high speed drill for teeth & a hand held grinder for rakers . Pro way but. Takes time to get the feel!


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## heyduke

Sully boy said:


> Put a file in a high speed drill for teeth & a hand held grinder for rakers . Pro way but. Takes time to get the feel!



sounds like a plan. could you post photos of a chain sharpened that way? looks good, i'll try it.


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## Sully boy

2 mar.


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## Philbert

Sully boy said:


> Put a file in a high speed drill for teeth & a hand held grinder for rakers . . .


? Saw files cut along the length of their axis. Not rotationally. How would mounting one in a drill sharpen ?

Philbert


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## ncpete

Subscribe


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## Philbert

Sully boy said:


> . . . a hand held grinder for rakers .



Here is a thread on a similar approach - used disc grinder for both. Member in the Middle East with limited access to other options.

Philbert

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...on-high-speed-pneumatic-micro-grinder.227742/


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## Sully boy

i


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## snoozeys

You need steady hands to do it


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## Sully boy

Here's pics of set up 3 times fast than by hand an quick is the name of the game!


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## Sully boy




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## Sully boy

The rakers only need a tap from the grinder .u want too just knock off the nub. The idea is get it out of way but have enough to not bite into the wood to hard !


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## Gologit

Sully boy said:


> Here's pics of set up 3 times fast than by hand an quick is the name of the game!


 
How about some close-ups of your chain after you sharpen it that way? Some video of it cutting would be good too.


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## KenJax Tree

This is good stuff


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## snoozeys

Seems like an overkill


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## Philbert

Sully boy said:


> View attachment 371855
> View attachment 371856
> i


I get what you are describing, but it makes no sense. You would be better off using a Dremel type bit, made to cut/grind rotationally, or using the profiled edge of your angle grinder.

Philbert


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## Sully boy

I used the stone rods they don't last at all. So I tried a file & it worked . I will make a video! A diamond rod would be ideal


----------



## Moparmyway

Sully boy said:


> I used the stone rods they don't last at all. So I tried a file & it worked . I will make a video! A diamond rod would be ideal


A stroke with the file would be ideal .... one way only - as the file is made to only cut in one direction.


----------



## Moparmyway

Sully boy said:


> The rakers only need a tap from the grinder .u want too just knock off the nub. The idea is get it out of way but have enough to not bite into the wood to hard !


WOW ....................
I go about setting rakers with a micrometer ......................... I MUST have missed grinder/file class that day


----------



## CR888

Philbert said:


> ? Saw files cut along the length of their axis. Not rotationally. How would mounting one in a drill sharpen ?
> 
> Philbert


When hand filing as l slide the file along the cutters edge, l rotate my wrist (approx 3/4 turn) each stroke. This was a little difficult to learn but practice will allow you to keep the file straight and twist it at the same time. lt also means the filing is evenly distributed along the file allowing for longer service life of file and less 'clogging' of the file.


----------



## Philbert

CR888 said:


> When hand filing as l slide the file along the cutters edge, l rotate my wrist (approx 3/4 turn) each stroke. . . .lt also means the filing is evenly distributed along the file allowing for longer service life of file and less 'clogging' of the file.



Not the same as chucking it in a drill.

Philbert


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## Sully boy

I'll post a vid this week I've been using high speed drill for yrs. anybody else think it doesn't work ?


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## Philbert

Sully boy said:


> I'll post a vid this week I've been using high speed drill for yrs. anybody else think it doesn't work ?


I am sure that you can make the chain cut if you say so. I can mount a chain backwards, and just using your angle grinder, get it to cut. But that's not a practice I would recommend.

Still, I have stated many time here on AS, if you find something that works for you, and you are happy with it - it's a free country. Go with it.

Rather than a video of you cutting, I would like to see a video of you sharpening, and close up photos of the teeth and cutting edges.

Philbert


----------



## a. palmer jr.

Hddnis said:


> The average AS member is clearly far beyond a simple device like this as they are capable of creating a perfectly hand filed chain as if they were brusing their tooth before bed.:msp_wink:
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. HE


 I have a chain sharpener but I still prefer to sharpen chains by file if the bar isn't too long.


----------



## KiwiBro

I've tapped a thread into the end of the crankshaft, drilled a hole in the clutch cover and now clip on a patent pending KiwiSharp warrior ninja stone grinder. With the optional extra carbon fibre jig, I can sharpen chains, on the chainsaw, at the chainsaw, with nothing but the chainsaw so help me Gawd, until death do us part.

I'd post pictures but typing this with my nose is hard enough. Just you guys wait until I can right click with my eyelids and then there'll be glorious HD videos, unless Big Oil get wind of it and shut me down for fear of losing profits.


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## Philbert

I detect a bit of sarcasm there, no?

But actually, what you describe is very similar to the PowerSharp system on the Oregon 40V chainsaw. 

Philbert


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## KiwiBro

I'm getting sick of Big organisations stealing my ideas. 
Won't be long now and they'll be marketing my bio-fuelled, regenerative braking, mobile firewood processing and drying delivery dump truck. Just feed it at the landings with logs, and it dumps dry firewood on the customers lawn. I bet there'll be absolutely no effort by the corporate world to pay me a cent in royalties either. The world's gone mad I tell you. Plain insane in the membrane.


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## Sully boy

I put a file on a high speed drill 2 sharpen my chain again then sawed this black locust in 1/2 hour


----------



## CR888

Philbert said:


> Not the same as chucking it in a drill.
> 
> Philbert


No that is hidious!


----------



## Bullwinkel261

Darn, this was a long thread to read. Did all 34 pages straight through. Timberline arrived a week ago and then I saw this thread !


----------



## snoozeys

I've had mine for a month and still haven't used it


----------



## Bullwinkel261

snoozeys said:


> I've had mine for a month and still haven't used it



It's 10 freakin' degrees outside so I'm diggin' the cute little bag that comes widit. Be glad ta send ya GPS coordinates to the woodpile. It's what friends do.


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## snoozeys

It's almost summer here and most days it hits 100 so there is no need to chop wood ... probably won't for a few more months or it cools down


----------



## NetComrade

I bought the Timberline for my Husqvarna 435 (as my pathetic attempt to sharpen it with a dremel resulted in an even duller chain), however, out of curiousity I looked at ebay for the old version if anyone is interested. Wonder what happens when the carbide wears out on it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/391026342523


----------



## snoozeys

They stopped making that brand years ago ... carbides are easy to get


----------



## Tom Erwin

I bought one and I love it, wish I would have got that 30 dollar promo code


----------



## fields_mj

tagged for later review


----------



## NetComrade

fields_mj said:


> tagged for later review


You can watch a thread and get notifications w/o posting and letting everyone else look at your message (that subscribed). Look for "watch thread" sign at the top of the thread.


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## fields_mj

I never noticed that before. Thanks!


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## stonny9

Ordered. Also check their Facebook page for the current promotions.


----------



## SteveSS

danl said:


> I was having trouble getting my TImberline set level and came up with the idea of using a feeler gauge. On 3/8 Oregon chain DG72 I am using a 13/64 carbide and gapping .095" above the cutters at the front and back. I have been taking very little off on two passes and it is the best I have been able to sharpen a chain in my whole 56 years.
> 
> I haven't tried the feeler gauge on a different size chain or with 7/32 or 3/16 carbides yet.


Genius! The biggest problem I've faced since owning this tool is getting it set the same way I had it set the last time I used it. Gapping the tool height to the cutters would allow perfectly repeatable results every time. You Missouri boys is purty smart and stuff.


----------



## BlueLude2001

Just used mine for the first time on a never before sharpened chain. Mounted it up. Followed directions setting carbide to the "A" side cutters and while spinning the carbide tightening the tension adjuster. Did the loop with all "A" side cutters with small shavings taken off. Just enough to put a fresh edge on. 

Went to try to switch over to the "b" side and the carbide wouldn't go into the tooth. Did some resetting on the jig while setting the carbide to both the A and B cutters and it worked perfectly. Teeth all the same exact size and with a razor edge. Went around doing both teeth and I love it. Glad I purchased it.


----------



## Tom Erwin

make sure you have the right carbide..i love mine but there is a learning curve...I have never had such sharp chains.It would take a expert with a file to do as well or any better.


----------



## Monstrosity

BlueLude2001 said:


> Just used mine for the first time on a never before sharpened chain. Mounted it up. Followed directions setting carbide to the "A" side cutters and while spinning the carbide tightening the tension adjuster. Did the loop with all "A" side cutters with small shavings taken off. Just enough to put a fresh edge on.
> 
> Went to try to switch over to the "b" side and the carbide wouldn't go into the tooth. Did some resetting on the jig while setting the carbide to both the A and B cutters and it worked perfectly. Teeth all the same exact size and with a razor edge. Went around doing both teeth and I love it. Glad I purchased it.



Just curious as to how long it took to set up and do a complete chain? I'm sure it would get faster after using a few times.


----------



## BlueLude2001

My very first time using it and using it on a never before sharpened chain (more difficult from what I've read) Id say it took me a good 30 minutes. I didn't want to mess anything up. This is with me taking my time and using a flashlight shining light onto the cutters and setting the jig twice basically. I'd say next time should take me 15 minutes or less easily now that I have a feel for it and trust its results.


----------



## row.man

Just got my TL sharpener. Started by sharpening my husky chain, plenty of hours of use and sharpenings on it. Not sure how many times I went around until it all was even, 45 min total.
Then I moved on to my echo, only sharpened once with the husky roller jig. For some reason the newer chain gave me more trouble than the old beat one.
Tried them both in some maple, the husky hasn't cut that well in quite a while, the echo is back to cutting like new. I did notice the echo is throwing big chips and dust at the same time. Not sure why though, as it is cutting fast and straight.


----------



## MGoBlue

All the rakers set right?


----------



## snoozeys

I use my timberline every 4th time otherwise i use my little electric sharpener 

Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk


----------



## Philbert

snoozeys said:


> I use my timberline every 4th time otherwise i use my little electric sharpener


Curious - What does one do that the other doesn't, and vise-versa?

Which electric sharpener?

Thanks. 

Philbert


----------



## snoozeys

I find the timberline takes longer to use... i mostly use it to keep all the teeth identical length and sharpness where as the electric sharpens quickly and minimal setup time 

Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk


----------



## nstueve

Philbert said:


> Curious - What does one do that the other doesn't, and vise-versa?
> 
> Which electric sharpener?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Philbert


I'll try to get my round grinders all set up with a performance review for you a little later this winter when I have some more shop time on hand. [emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Philbert

nstueve said:


> I'll try to get my round grinders all set up with a performance review for you a little later this winter when I have some more shop time on hand.


Thanks Nate! That comparison would be worth it's own thread, or maybe, adding onto the thread below:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chain-grinders.287458/

Because it would not include the Timberline sharpener (focus of this thread).


Philbert


----------



## nstueve

Philbert said:


> Thanks Nate! That comparison would be worth it's own thread, or maybe, adding onto the thread below:
> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chain-grinders.287458/
> 
> Because it would not include the Timberline sharpener (focus of this thread).
> 
> 
> Philbert


I'll start my own thread. Would be nice to have a 511ax with hydro clamp and a maxx grinder to help compare all of the together at once. Clint has a hydro clamp model... So the maxx is the only one I'll probably miss.

Also I will be doing this with reg stone wheels only. Not getting into the $100 CBN wheel discussion. Just basic use and faults of each one. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## amberg

well after running across this thread and reading all 35 pages, I think I have been convinced to try the timberline sharpener. I have sent a email to 
timberline asking how the 7/32 bit will work on the stihl 3/8 chisel chain or would the 13/64 bit be best. has any one tried this with good results? or 
just stick with the 13/64 bit.


----------



## SteveSS

I use the 13/64 cutter on all of my 3/8 chain with no problems.


----------



## Moparmyway

amberg said:


> well after running across this thread and reading all 35 pages, I think I have been convinced to try the timberline sharpener. I have sent a email to
> timberline asking how the 7/32 bit will work on the stihl 3/8 chisel chain or would the 13/64 bit be best. has any one tried this with good results? or
> just stick with the 13/64 bit.


Its not like grabbing a 7/32 file.
the Timberline positions the cutter, to get the correct hook, I would suggest 13/64

If filing, I would grab the 7/32 and file a little low to clean the gullet


----------



## SteveSS

nstueve said:


> I'll start my own thread. Would be nice to have a 511ax with hydro clamp and a maxx grinder to help compare all of the together at once. Clint has a hydro clamp model... So the maxx is the only one I'll probably miss.
> 
> Also I will be doing this with reg stone wheels only. Not getting into the $100 CBN wheel discussion. Just basic use and faults of each one.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'll definitely be on the lookout for that thread. I've been kicking around the idea of adding a grinder to my work bench.


----------



## heyduke

amberg said:


> well after running across this thread and reading all 35 pages, I think I have been convinced to try the timberline sharpener. I have sent a email to
> timberline asking how the 7/32 bit will work on the stihl 3/8 chisel chain or would the 13/64 bit be best. has any one tried this with good results? or
> just stick with the 13/64 bit.



i use the 7/32 for 3/8 chain. it cuts aggressively, self feeds and lasts a long time. i'd like to try the 13/64 but haven't gotten around to it yet. i use 5/32 for the 3/8 lo-pro on my top handle saws. if a chain is damaged i use an oregon grinder to true it up and then finish with the timberline. also, after a days work i often enjoy a cool one while i freshen the edges on the chains i used. the 7/32 also works well on .404. i don't use .325 chain.

it's a good idea to buy replacement bits when you purchase the timberline. a beginner is often over zealous. if you've read this thread you'll know that it's best to go slow and make multiple passes. after you've sharpened a chain with the timberline, a single, light application will get it back to razor sharp after a days use.


----------



## amberg

well I placed the order from bailey's this morning, they have it on sale now $99.99 bits on sale to. but the 13/64" bit is out of stock. so I got the 3/8 and
the 3/16" bits, forgot to get extra ones. I will take just a little at a time like I would with the grinder. also tried my new pferd 7/32 guide on the 044
yesterday, liked it better than the stihl guide, don't like that it only has 35 degree angle on it though.


----------



## heyduke

amberg said:


> well I placed the order from bailey's this morning, they have it on sale now $99.99 bits on sale to. but the 13/64" bit is out of stock. so I got the 3/8 and
> the 3/16" bits, forgot to get extra ones. I will take just a little at a time like I would with the grinder. also tried my new pferd 7/32 guide on the 044
> yesterday, liked it better than the stihl guide, don't like that it only has 35 degree angle on it though.



correction: i use the 3/16", not 7/32" bits. it's been a while since i ordered my last one and my memory is good for ten minutes max. the guy at timberline is very fast, so if you didn't order an extra bit, he will get you one in a hurry.

some suggestions: the carbide bits are brittle, like glass. be careful no to drop them and don't tighten the chain stop too tight. i've found that the best technique is to push the bit all the way in, past the taper and tighten the chain stop so the bit is firmly against the cutter. then do all the rest of the cutters with that adjustment. it often takes three passes on each side. after you get the chain precisely trued and sharp, one pass will be enough to restore the edge, unless there is damage or excessive wear. you can use the timberline on a new chain. it will cut much better.

good luck, i hope your timberline works as well for you as it does for me.


----------



## dall

im waiting on my timberline sharpener i ordered from wesspurs 99 for the unit and 22 for each bit free shipping


----------



## amberg

heyduke said:


> correction: i use the 3/16", not 7/32" bits. it's been a while since i ordered my last one and my memory is good for ten minutes max. the guy at timberline is very fast, so if you didn't order an extra bit, he will get you one in a hurry.
> 
> some suggestions: the carbide bits are brittle, like glass. be careful no to drop them and don't tighten the chain stop too tight. i've found that the best technique is to push the bit all the way in, past the taper and tighten the chain stop so the bit is firmly against the cutter. then do all the rest of the cutters with that adjustment. it often takes three passes on each side. after you get the chain precisely trued and sharp, one pass will be enough to restore the edge, unless there is damage or excessive wear. you can use the timberline on a new chain. it will cut much better.
> 
> good luck, i hope your timberline works as well for you as it does for me.



think I will give them a call and have them send me a 13/64 bit and also a couple spares, ( I do drop things a lot ) they did reply to my email and said 
that it was a matter of preference on bit size to use. they also said that stihl recommends the 13/64 but a lot of people still use the 7/32 so I will try it 
when it gets here to see how it does. 

now it is eggnog time!!


----------



## heyduke

amberg said:


> think I will give them a call and have them send me a 13/64 bit and also a couple spares, ( I do drop things a lot ) they did reply to my email and said
> that it was a matter of preference on bit size to use. they also said that stihl recommends the 13/64 but a lot of people still use the 7/32 so I will try it
> when it gets here to see how it does.
> 
> now it is eggnog time!!



sounds great, sip some nog and watch the game.


----------



## radioFlash

I've got some chains which comes sharpened at 25*° *(Husqvarna H47X) or 35° (Carlton A1EP). Is there much of a downside to just sharpening them both at 30*° *with the Timberline?


----------



## amberg

I think that you can get the 25 and 35 degree inserts for the timberline as an accessory.


----------



## Philbert

radioFlash said:


> Is there much of a downside to just sharpening them both at 30*° . . . *



In theory, the chains will cut differently if sharpened at different angles. These differences can be objectively measured in a controlled situation/test, and the chains can be optimized for specific performance (speed, longevity, different wood species, etc.). In practice, most guys will probably not notice the difference - they use whatever comes out of the package, or whatever angles the guy at the sharpening place used.

If you are someone who will notice the difference, you may have answered your own question.

Some sharpening methods and equipment allow the user great flexibility in choosing and customizing different chain angles. Others offer greater simplicity in use, by limiting those choices.

Philbert


----------



## radioFlash

Thanks Amberg & Philbert for the replies--I've got the inserts on order, but would rather not switch them out all the time if it won't hurt anything.


----------



## Philbert

Be sure to post your impressions/experiences with the sharpener after you have had a chance to try it out!

Philbert


----------



## radioFlash

Here are my impressions so far:

I'm a homeowner with about 5 acres. I've got a Stihl MS251 with an 18" bar that I've used to remove a few trees and flush cut some stumps. I tried the Grandberg guide, but found it to be a bit fiddly to setup and the quality of the casting looked terrible--it might function fine, but I only tried it a couple of times before I gave up on it.

The Timberline is certainly more expensive, but it seems to be working well for me. I've used it about a dozen times so far.

*Cost*: It's pricey compared to most other sharpening options other than a bench grinder, but beats taking a trip to a dealer and paying $15 per sharpening.
*
Effectiveness*: It gets the chains as sharp or sharper than new when used properly.
*
Ease of use:* The most difficult thing is getting it mounted on the bar correctly. It still takes me a few minutes to get it set so it's balanced and doesn't catch on the chain. The first time I used it I chewed up the carbide cutter. It may have been because I didn't mount it properly, the chain was in bad shape, or there was some sand/dirt on the chain. Once mounted on the bar, it's easy enough to set the thumbscrew and start sharpening. I'm still slow at it, so people who are pros at hand sharpening will not be impressed with my speed.
*
Build quality*: The machining and finish seem very good. The carbide cutters are fragile and won't survive abuse, so you need to proceed carefully. I'm concerned that the pawl and carbide guides are aluminum which might wear over time as they're rubbing against a much harder material (the chain and carbide). Fortunately, Timeberline sells replacements for these items (as long as they're still in business!). The pouch is just big enough to hold the sharpener, but it would be a better if it were just a little larger to hold some extra handles and cutters. 

I just got a new chainsaw (562XP), but have yet to use the Timberline on its chains yet.


----------



## MGoBlue

radioFlash said:


> *Effectiveness*: It gets the chains as sharp or sharper than new when used properly.



Not only that(which I can achieve w/ hand filing), it's best feature IMO is that it gets *all* cutters the _*exact*_ same length and perfectly angled. Nice post btw.


----------



## radioFlash

I sharpen all the cutters on one side and switch over to the other side. To ensure that the left and right cutters are the same length, do I need to make sure I don't adjust the thumbscrew when switching sides? I've found that sometimes when I switch over to the other side, it's too tight fitting, so I dial the thumbscrew out a bit. If that's not the right thing to do, then what's the best strategy?


----------



## row.man

My only issue with the timberline is the case. To fit the carbide bit so it isn't in danger of being broken with a random hit, you must remove the bit from the handle 
I think a roll up, tool wrap would be better, especially one that had a pocket or two extra to fit the raker gage and flat file. In canvas or heavy nylon fire hose type material.


----------



## Hinerman

MGoBlue said:


> Not only that(which I can achieve w/ hand filing), it's best feature IMO is that it gets *all* cutters the _*exact*_ same length and perfectly angled. Nice post btw.



How long do the carbide files/cutters last? They are pricey and regular round files are pretty cheap...


----------



## MGoBlue

Well, I've only messed one up so far due to lack of experience. I'd have to look into my emails to find out when I bought it, been a while though. The point is that yes, round files are cheap but I guarantee, your cutters aren't perfectly angled and _*all*_ the exact same length. I've stated that I hand file 2-3 times, then true up with the jig. Keeps my chains cutting perfectly straight.


----------



## CR888

l have over a hundred chains in service at any given time, rarely do l find one with all the cutters at the same length unless off the roll. l could make them all the same length but for work chains you half there cutting life/filing life making all cutters match the shortest one. lts not neccessary for a well functioning work chain IME.


----------



## beaglebriar

I know a few guys that use the Timberline. They say it will make a chain razor sharp but the whole thing seems tedious to me. I tend to square off a tooth way less than 30°. I'm sure they help a guy that can't or doesn't want to file but you still have to file the rakers. I'm sure they have their place but I'll stick with a good file.


----------



## MGoBlue

CR888 said:


> l have over a hundred chains in service at any given time.


In a production environment, I'd totally agree. and have a grinder.


----------



## heyduke

Hinerman said:


> How long do the carbide files/cutters last? They are pricey and regular round files are pretty cheap...



a dull file is just as bad as a dull chain and, in reality, files don't last very long. you probably wouldn't notice if you're only using your chain for a few firewood runs every year but if you use a saw regularly, you go through a lot of files. i've been using the same cutter for more than a year. it isn't as sharp as new but it still does the job. in the same period i would have gone thru at least a dozen files. files are $5, carbide cutters $20. do the math.

regarding cr888's "fleet" maintenance of a hundred chains, a timberline is not for you. i used to do 20 saws every sunday night and used a stihl grinder. i would have been there until wednesday with a timberline. i sometimes doubt that sharpening chains is cost effective for a medium or large operation. it might be cheaper to make a new chain. 

a good grinder is still almost necessary if you use a timberline. repairing damage could take an hour with a timberline, with an oregon grinder, ten minutes, however if you want that special edge, you still have to true it up with a timberline.

regarding beaglebear's complaints of "tedium," getting a chain really sharp is not an exciting job. and even though nearly everyone on this site thinks he can sharpen a chain with a file, i doubt that one in a thousand actually has the skill to do it correctly.


----------



## MGoBlue

heyduke said:


> getting a chain really sharp is not an exciting job.



Speak for yourself.    
I recently had one of your "one in a thousand" show me how to square file. I thoroughly enjoy being in the shop with a good tune on the radio and a file in me hands. The fruits of my labor are soooo worth it.


----------



## heyduke

MGoBlue said:


> Speak for yourself.
> I recently had one of your "one in a thousand" show me how to square file. I thoroughly enjoy being in the shop with a good tune on the radio and a file in me hands. The fruits of my labor are soooo worth it.



good point mgblue, glad you found a rare friend who can wield a file. square ground chain lends itself to hand filing because it has a straight line in the corner of the cutter. it's easier to keep the file properly aligned. you still need the manual dexterity to keep things true and maintain correct angles. the more common round ground chain is another matter. timberlines don't sharpen square-filed chain. i maintain chains for many of the hombres in my village. they all consider themselves to be capable filers, but when they bring their chains to me i always see a disaster. the angles are wrong. damage has not been removed. depth gauges are wrong. cutter length is all over the map. they don't cut for s***. if you need a humbling experience. borrow a timberline and use it to sharpen one of your old hand-filed chains. then take it outside and put it into a log.

like you, i often relax after a long day restoring the edges on the chains i have used, musica ranchera on the radio, a cerveza on the bench and my timberline on a bar. the fruits of my labor are fast cutting saws throwing fat chips against my jeans.


----------



## amberg

got the order placed today with timberline for the extra bits and also the 25 and 35 degree inserts. he did tell me that if I try the 25 degree insert
that I might not want to change it back to 30. when it gets here we will see!


----------



## SierraWoodsman

Does the 25° cut faster?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MGoBlue

just an fyi
Timberline Chainsaw Sharpeners???


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## dall

we use carbide burr cutters on die grinders at work and with all burrs you have to watch the pressure and angle you are trying to cut with you could probably use a drill on the timberline cutters to make it cut faster but you ruin more of a risk messing the burr up .i just got mine saturday and so far i like it . might be a little better if the burrs was more of a point meaning longer so can start removing material on a really damaged chain before you get to the sharpening edge


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## MGoBlue

Learn from my mistake. Rocked chain = 1 swipe with a round file. 
I think putting a cutter in a drill would wear out the guides quicker. My 30's are about toast. Anyone wanna make these and the pawls out of a stronger material??


----------



## dall

my chain stops are split where can flip the one side up so doesnt get destroyed must be a new design


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## MGoBlue

Not from carbides touching, just from backing the chain into it. After a year plus, you'll see.


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## Philbert

On sale in the current Bailey's circular. $99 without the cutters. Not sure if that is much of a deal or not.

Philbert


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## dall

i got mine from wesspurs 99 plus to cutters was 143 total and free shipping


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## SteveSS

I've owned this tool for a year now, and have used it a lot. It's a great tool if you have loads of patience and time. It sharpens to the point of shaving quality, and the sharpened chains throw big, chunky chips. No complaints there. My complaints are in the set up of the tool. I can never get it the same from sharpening to sharpening without my notes, and gapping with a feeler gauge to ensure consistency between sharpenings (is that even a word?). The results kick ass. The process and time to achieve them.......not so much. Let's not even talk about the tendinitis from spinning that damn lever for three days in a row (I had a few days off).

And no worries about the aluminium guides wearing out. Just throw a dab of bar oil where the cutter spins and you're good to go.

It's a good tool that produces great results. But if you have a real jacked up chain, you're better off paying to have it ground than to make 4+ passes with the Timberline. My time is worth more than it takes for that.


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## dall

i have a oregon hand guide a electris 511 knock off and the timberline ill use the electric one to fix the bad ones then ill put on the timberline


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## dall

electric i hate misspelling


----------



## kevin85

I wish I had the success as many of you. I have given up with my Timberline. When I bought mine, I tried to learn how to use it on old chains. I had limited success. So I finally bought a new chain and vowed to learn how to use the Timberline by touching it up every tank. By my third "touch up", I had screwed up my chain and brought out a hand file to fix it. I usually don't have trouble doing the teeth from the inside-out. But I think I mess up the outside-in teeth. I've watched every video on YouTube on how to set it up correctly, and I really think I'm doing it right. I'm just not getting good results.

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk


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## dall

its hard to do on a old chain if the cut or filed lower edge of tooth is higher on a newer chain i set my tooth length and as im turning the first one i turn quarter turn remember just touching up not building a tooth . if one tooth every now and then doesnt shave as much off ill let it go and next time sharpen it should even out


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## dws_az

I picked one up when on sale not too long ago and it worked well on my good chains.

Just as others have said, when I tried it on friends chain that was "rough/abused" it was challenging.

As I'm new to sharpening chains it seems to be a handy tool to "keep" a chain sharp but perhaps not so good on old chains.


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## amberg

ups just dropped off the new timberline sharpener a while ago. looks very well made, it also has the split dogs on it, will try to set it up 
tomorrow and try it out.


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## amberg

well, I think that I am impressed , I got to try it out today on a .325 chain and it took 3 times at a little bit at each round to get it it right. I guess 
I can not see any more, the cutters that i though was the longest, was the shortest, I did do a lot better on the 3/8 chain on the 24" bar with 
the 7/32" bit. The key to setting it up is making sure that the bit fit's in the right and the left cutters at a equal angle. then you can screw the bar
knobs down lightly, ( note the center knob may be screwed in very little only if chain move sideways ) I think after sharping chains since 1972 that
this will help some one that can not see very good in later life. can't wait to try out the 3/8 semi chisel on the 576 xp at . my left cutters were over 
35 degree's and my right cutters were about 30 degree's that tells me that I can not see any more. ( I think I will like this thing )


----------



## Philbert

I have never used this tool personally, but have been curious about it for some time. 

I really like the range of experiences and opinions posted in this thread by A.S. members, including first impressions, and long time perspectives.

This type of feedback, including '_Pros_' and '_Cons_' is very helpful for anyone else interested in this tool. 

Thank you!

Philbert


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## Moparmyway

Philbert said:


> I have never used this tool personally, but have been curious about it for some time.
> 
> I really like the range of experiences and opinions posted in this thread by A.S. members, including first impressions, and long time perspectives.
> 
> This type of feedback, including '_Pros_' and '_Cons_' is very helpful for anyone else interested in this tool.
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> Philbert


I just got my Timberline back from a member on another forum ................
Since you have been so deprived in your experiences as to have never tried out a Timberline .........
I happily offer to mail mine to you for you to borrow.
Try it out on several chains, take small bites and watch your skin, the little shavings love to "dig in"
PM me your address if interested


----------



## Philbert

That was not the intent of my post, but I'll take you up on that! 

I wanted to thank participants for one of the few A.S. threads that has really stayed on track. It was not worth $100+ for me to try the Timberline, since I am satisfied with the other methods I have. But I was hoping to try it at a GTG someday. Your offer may even be better. 

PM on the way. 

Thanks!

Philbert


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## Moparmyway

Philbert said:


> That was not the intent of my post


I know that Sir ............ that is why I offered it for you to try


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## MGoBlue

Moparmyway said:


> the little shavings love to "dig in"



This^^ +1! I wear gloves, learned the hard way. tired of finding metal splinters with a magnifier.


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## dall

lol we use die grinders at work and usually in bad places ive had them so much my hands look like i have freckles on them especially when digging a tube out of a steam header takes over a pound of rod to fill it back in


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## Gologit

Baileys has the Timberline sharpener on sale for $99.99.


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## amberg

got my spare bits and the 25 and 35 degree inserts from timberline yesterday, want to try the 25 degree on one chain, just not sure weather to
try it on the semi chisel or the full chisel, I am thinking the full chisel might stay sharper slightly longer, any body have any thoughts on that?


----------



## Philbert

Full chisel generally cuts faster and dulls faster. 

Philbert


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## amberg

Philbert said:


> Full chisel generally cuts faster and dulls faster.
> 
> Philbert


that is what I was thinking, getting to damn old to do anymore. 

going back


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## amberg

Philbert said:


> Full chisel generally cuts faster and dulls faster.
> 
> Philbert


that is what I was thinking, getting to damn old to do anymore.


----------



## amberg

Philbert said:


> I have never used this tool personally, but have been curious about it for some time.
> 
> I really like the range of experiences and opinions posted in this thread by A.S. members, including first impressions, and long time perspectives.
> 
> This type of feedback, including '_Pros_' and '_Cons_' is very helpful for anyone else interested in this tool.
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> Philbert



philbert 

I think that I can't give a good opinion as of yet, but so far it is looking good. 

charlie


----------



## Wood Sniffer

Hi all. New to ArboristSite & thought I would add to this thread. I LOVE the timberline sharpener. I've done 4 chains so far with great results. For a few resons I can't do much hand filing any more.  With the timberline I could sharpen chain most of the day.  Starting a sharpening biz & the timberline is a life saver for me. Have a good 1 all.


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## dall

i have a timberline and so far i like it i also bought the stihl 2n1 sharpener also and havent gotten to try it out yet


----------



## CR888

Moparmyway said:


> I know that Sir ............ that is why I offered it for you to try


That was real nice form, Philbert always contributes to chain anything threads.....his reasons for not owning one are the same as mine, but I would love to hear him post about the timberline after some play time. Its nice to get an opinion from someone that has a good amount of experience with all the grinders, jigs out in the market. Most people only have one or two devices.


----------



## SteveSS

Moparmyway said:


> take small bites and watch your skin, the little shavings love to "dig in"


Very solid advice, right there. I was working on a chain a few weeks ago when I noticed a busted driver. I finished sharpening the chain, and took it to my local shop since I don't have the tools to fix it. Gave it to the counter guy who disappeared for a minute and came back with my repaired chain while trying to dig a metal splinter out of his finger. I neglected to clean up the chain before I took it in. Oops. Those little metal shavings can be a real pain in the finger.


----------



## SteveSS

Wood Sniffer said:


> Hi all. New to ArboristSite & thought I would add to this thread. I LOVE the timberline sharpener. I've done 4 chains so far with great results. For a few resons I can't do much hand filing any more.  With the timberline I could sharpen chain most of the day.  Starting a sharpening biz & the timberline is a life saver for me. Have a good 1 all.


I think I definitely would not use it as a corner stone of any sharpening business. Fast, it is not. At least for me.


----------



## Wood Sniffer

I prob wouldn't be doing much more 6-8 18-24" chains a day so speed is not a big thing. But I do know there is 1 guy close by that has a 6 footer.  Even with a electric that would take a while. lol Mostly just a few around that don't want to drive 20+ mile or by new chain every time theirs gets dull. Can get something else if I get too busy.


----------



## kevin85

Anyone having luck with the Timberline want to post a "how to" video? I've seen all the ones online and I'm still having trouble getting mine to sharpen my chains.

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk


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## Wood Sniffer

Wish I could. Have no way to make vid rite now. Did mine using just a bar sitting in my lap. Made for some fun moments. lol Well3 of the 4 anyway.


----------



## amberg

amberg said:


> philbert
> 
> I think that I can't give a good opinion as of yet, but so far it is looking good.
> 
> charlie



Only using the timberline two more times since last post, I have found that you HAVE to on a used chain, use your regular file ( with out the guide ) to cut the gullets down on at least 1 left hand and 1 right hand tooth, so you can set the timberline bits the same height for both sides, then you can make a couple passe's on 1 or both sides at the same time, and all the cutters will be the same. ( TIP) make sure both left and right bits are cutting at the same height. or check with calipers. as you would do on the the depth gauges, It makes a super sharp chain, be it RM, or RS, makes no difference. (TIP ) first learn depth of your gullets, and the chain pitch, angle, etc. even with glass's now I can not see what angle to push the file. IMO some people will love it like me, and others will not like it. ( I happen to like it ) like I said you must have a under standing first. try it you might like it. 

What ever you do, do not turn it counter clockwise!


----------



## Jon9sered

holshot14 said:


> No .404 available. Only 3/8, .325, and 3/8 lo pro and looks as if u get one size of your choice with purchase.[/QUOTE


.404 tooth same as 3/8 so will work even tho the link is longer, so should work with a good set up.


----------



## rwoods

amberg said:


> Only using the timberline two more times since last post, I have found that you HAVE to on a used chain, use your regular file ( with out the guide ) *to cut the gullets down on at least 1 left hand and 1 right hand tooth, so you can set the timberline bits the same height for both sides*, then you can make a couple passe's on 1 or both sides at the same time, and all the cutters will be the same. ( TIP) make sure both left and right bits are cutting at the same height. or check with calipers. as you would do on the the depth gauges, It makes a super sharp chain, be it RM, or RS, makes no difference. (TIP ) first learn depth of your gullets, and the chain pitch, angle, etc. even with glass's now I can not see what angle to push the file. IMO some people will love it like me, and others will not like it. ( I happen to like it ) like I said you must have a under standing first. try it you might like it.
> 
> What ever you do, do not turn it counter clockwise!



I will try that as my results are very inconsistent. Sometimes really good both sides, sometimes good one side only. Sometimes neither very good. Ron


----------



## Philbert

*Philbert Meets the Timberline (Finally!)*



Philbert said:


> I have never used this tool personally, but have been curious about it for some time.





Moparmyway said:


> Since you have been so deprived in your experiences as to have never tried out a Timberline .........
> I happily offer to mail mine to you for you to borrow.



Thanks to a _very_ patient member and his generosity, I was finally able to try the Timberline sharpener. My impressions generally track with the 38 pages (!) of this thread, and some related threads:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/timberline-chainsaw-sharpeners.191747/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-chain-sharpening-tool.237082/

First, start with Philbert's general rule of chain sharpening: "_Everybody has to find something that works for them._"




*General Impressions*

The Timberline is pretty simple to use, but not obvious. The YouTube video really helped me to understand how to set it up, especially for the first time, and the comments in this thread from users were also very helpful. The unit I received did not come with any printed instructions, so I can't comment on those. Like any other sharpening device or method, I am sure that users get better, and more efficient, with practice.

This device appears to be best suited for '_touch-up'_ sharpening: restoring edges dulled from normal use and wear, rather than those damaged from hitting rocks or other hazards. Several users noted taking just a little off at a time, which is appropriate for this application. In fairness, I would still want to use a full-sized chain grinder to restore rocked chains, so that does not make the Timberline much different from any file guide in that respect.

Setting the height of the Timberline on the guide bar appears to be key; this is also a issue for newer users of the clamp-on Granberg style file guides (although, those allow adjustment of file height once attached). The Timberline almost 'self-centers' on new, or very good condition chain, but would be more difficult to position on heavily worn chain, especially if previously ground / filed with too much hook, or overly deep gullets. Again - appears better for _maintaining_ chain, rather than _restoring_ it.

*Use*

It may be obvious, but the Timberline has to be mounted on the right bar. I used it on spare guide bars held in a bench vise, like I do with the Granberg type file guides. The chain stop / dog holds the cutters steady in the forward / backward direction, but the side clamp does not hold them securely side-to-side, unless in the proper gauge bar groove. Not an issue if you sharpen on the saw.






Cutter care also appears to be important. The cutters that came with this unit (had been passed around a bit?) were a bit rough, which left a bit of a rough finish. I kept an old toothbrush next to the unit, and brushed the spiral cutters clean after every few teeth. I think that the comments about using a drop or two of cutting oil, and taking light passes, would really help the longevity of the carbide cutters. Spare cutters would be a good investment.

It is quiet, and makes little mess (the sharp filings noted don't get thrown around like grinding dust) which makes it nice for indoor use, as well as for field touch ups.

The fixed settings are a double-edged sword (no pun intended). They provide users with consistent angles, but allow no flexibility. This will appeal to some users, and frustrate others.

*Overall*

A nice little device that will appeal to some, especially those satisfied with default angles, who want to touch up edges consistently, and who are not comfortable or confident with their filing skills. It is compact, and easy to pack into the field. The proprietary cutters are a bit of a concern, compared to conventional chain files, but not a problem as long as the manufacturer stays in business.

Would I use one? Sure - if that was what was available. Going back and forth between different file guides and sharpening methods can be challenging, because the angles are usually slightly different, and as noted, the Timberline appears best when touching up identical angles, rather than redefining them. So that could be an issue with chains sharpened with other methods. With some file guides and grinders (but not all) it is possible to adjust to match the existing angles - a nice feature to have.

Would I buy one? Probably not (unless I ran across one pretty cheap for _show-and-tell_ purposes). I have other methods that meet my needs, and I like files that are inexpensive and readily available. But it could be a good choice for other users.

Thank you the the opportunity to try it!

Philbert


----------



## heyduke

Philbert said:


> *Philbert Meets the Timberline (Finally!)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to a _very_ patient member and his generosity, I was finally able to try the Timberline sharpener. My impressions generally track with the 38 pages (!) of this thread, and some related threads:
> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/timberline-chainsaw-sharpeners.191747/
> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-chain-sharpening-tool.237082/
> 
> First, start with Philbert's general rule of chain sharpening: "_Everybody has to find something that works for them._"
> 
> View attachment 530921
> 
> 
> *General Impressions*
> 
> The Timberline is pretty simple to use, but not obvious. The YouTube video really helped me to understand how to set it up, especially for the first time, and the comments in this thread from users were also very helpful. The unit I received did not come with any printed instructions, so I can't comment on those. Like any other sharpening device or method, I am sure that users get better, and more efficient, with practice.
> 
> This device appears to be best suited for '_touch-up'_ sharpening: restoring edges dulled from normal use and wear, rather than those damaged from hitting rocks or other hazards. Several users noted taking just a little off at a time, which is appropriate for this application. In fairness, I would still want to use a full-sized chain grinder to restore rocked chains, so that does not make the Timberline much different from any file guide in that respect.
> 
> Setting the height of the Timberline on the guide bar appears to be key; this is also a issue for newer users of the clamp-on Granberg style file guides (although, those allow adjustment of file height once attached). The Timberline almost 'self-centers' on new, or very good condition chain, but would be more difficult to position on heavily worn chain, especially if previously ground / filed with too much hook, or overly deep gullets. Again - appears better for _maintaining_ chain, rather than _restoring_ it.
> 
> *Use*
> 
> It may be obvious, but the Timberline has to be mounted on the right bar. I used it on spare guide bars held in a bench vise, like I do with the Granberg type file guides. The chain stop / dog holds the cutters steady in the forward / backward direction, but the side clamp does not hold them securely side-to-side, unless in the proper gauge bar groove. Not an issue if you sharpen on the saw.
> 
> View attachment 530922
> 
> View attachment 530923
> 
> 
> Cutter care also appears to be important. The cutters that came with this unit (had been passed around a bit?) were a bit rough, which left a bit of a rough finish. I kept an old toothbrush next to the unit, and brushed the spiral cutters clean after every few teeth. I think that the comments about using a drop or two of cutting oil, and taking light passes, would really help the longevity of the carbide cutters. Spare cutters would be a good investment.
> 
> It is quiet, and makes little mess (the sharp filings noted don't get thrown around like grinding dust) which makes it nice for indoor use, as well as for field touch ups.
> 
> The fixed settings are a double-edged sword (no pun intended). They provide users with consistent angles, but allow no flexibility. This will appeal to some users, and frustrate others.
> 
> *Overall*
> 
> A nice little device that will appeal to some, especially those satisfied with default angles, who want to touch up edges consistently, and who are not comfortable or confident with their filing skills. It is compact, and easy to pack into the field. The proprietary cutters are a bit of a concern, compared to conventional chain files, but not a problem as long as the manufacturer stays in business.
> 
> Would I use one? Sure - if that was what was available. Going back and forth between different file guides and sharpening methods can be challenging, because the angles are usually slightly different, and as noted, the Timberline appears best when touching up identical angles, rather than redefining them. So that could be an issue with chains sharpened with other methods. With many file guides and grinders (but not all) it is possible to adjust to match the existing angles - a nice feature to have.
> 
> Would I buy one? Probably not (unless I ran across one pretty cheap for _show-and-tell_ purposes). I have other methods that meet my needs, and I like files that are inexpensive and readily available. But it could be a good choice for other users.
> 
> Thank you the the opportunity to try it!
> 
> Philbert


nice post with great photos, philbert. and, you're right. the timberline works best as a maintenance tool, keeping the razor edge on an undamaged chain, just like a file. it has a few advantages over a file. it produces repeatable results. files are fine if you don't have anything better, but not one in a thousand hombres has the skill to properly sharpen a chain with a file. ever notice the lack of photos of a well filed chain. that's because they are so rare. the timberline can repair a damaged chain if you are patient enuff, faster than filing, but a grinder is best. also, there's one thing that you forgot in your excellent post, a video of the sharpened chain cutting. there are a precious few hombres that can produce superior result filing a round ground chain. truth is, i haven't found one yet.

i seldom damage a chain. when i do i grind it back with an oregon grinder. mostly i just use my timberline to keep it throwing wheaties while my compadres are making corn meal.


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## KiwiBro

Here's another one for the record Philbert.

Raker and cutter in one,


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## Jon9sered

Its the best filing system I've seen, it does require more attention - height etc and the stops (that hold the tooth) have to be used correctly - there are 2 and one - the one for the side not being filed has to be flicked up or else the file will take a chunk out of it. 
I would say it produces a chain 10 % sharper than the standard old guide with file attached, its not as quick but its a great piece of kit. There is nothing like a super sharp chain ... less effort, less work, easy on gear.


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## CabinFever

I am interested in using the TL Sharpener off the chainsaw and have a couple questions.

Have others used the TL Sharpener on a loose chain riding in a spare bar similar to the method @Philbert did in his photo below? Were you successful? Or, was the chain too sloppy from side-to side?






@Homelite410, where did you get the chain clamp in the photo below. Did you purchase it or make it? Does anyone know where I can get something like this?





Thanks!


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## Jon9sered

CabinFever said:


> I am interested in using the TL Sharpener off the chainsaw and have a couple questions.
> 
> Have others used the TL Sharpener on a loose chain riding in a spare bar similar to the method @Philbert did in his photo below? Were you successful? Or, was the chain too sloppy from side-to side?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Homelite410, where did you get the chain clamp in the photo below. Did you purchase it or make it? Does anyone know where I can get something like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


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## Jon9sered

IMO ..You don't need this rig, just leave the chain on your saw ... keep the chain tight and put the brake on and put it in a vice. Sorted.


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## CabinFever

Jon9sered said:


> IMO ..You don't need this rig, just leave the chain on your saw ... keep the chain tight and put the brake on and put it in a vice. Sorted.


Agreed, but I have about 10 chains that are usually off the saws and kept in reserve for a quick swap out as needed. I really don't want to hassle putting them on the saw, then sharpening, then taking the sharpened chain back off the saw. If I had only one chain per saw, I would sharpen them on the saw.


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## Philbert

CabinFever said:


> @Homelite410, where did you get the chain clamp in the photo below. Did you purchase it or make it? Does anyone know where I can get something like this?


Homelite410 makes and sells those chain vises!

Philbert


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## CabinFever

Philbert said:


> Homelite410 makes and sells those chain vises!
> 
> Philbert


Thanks, @Philbert ! What experience did you have using the TL Sharpener off the saw?


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## Philbert

CabinFever said:


> Thanks, @Philbert ! What experience did you have using the TL Sharpener off the saw?


 I really only gave the sharpener a quick try, and all of my comments are in the post above. 

Some guys have one chain and one saw, and sharpen that chain until it is used up before replacing. I tend to swap chains out, to sharpen at home, and for more even wear, so I like to have an '_off-the-saw_' sharpening option as well. 

I also sharpen chains for other people, and do not always have the guidebars or powerheads that go with them, so I need that option for those chains too. 

Philbert


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## a. palmer jr.

If you're gonna sharpen 10 chains at a time get a grinder, saves a lotta time and work..


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## CabinFever

a. palmer jr. said:


> If you're gonna sharpen 10 chains at a time get a grinder, saves a lotta time and work..


But, I only sharpen them once a year and I am absolutely terrible with a file.


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## a. palmer jr.

CabinFever said:


> But, I only sharpen them once a year and I am absolutely terrible with a file.


 There's not too many that are as good with a file as a well set up chain grinder would do. I used to file them for years and got fairly good at it as long as the bar wasn't too terribly long. The grinder takes about 2-3 minutes and does a great job and you don't have to worry about the chain pulling to one side or the other..


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## Philbert

CabinFever said:


> But, I only sharpen them once a year and I am absolutely terrible with a file.


Check out the 'Granberg File-N-Joint Revisited' thread:

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/

These could also be a good option for you. Less expensive, and more versatile. 

Philbert


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## HarleyT

Fish said:


> OK,Ok.....
> 
> Here is a close up of the bottom, and from the side.View attachment 199484
> View attachment 199485


Jeeesh, he sure took chitty pics!!!


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## Stihl 041S

HarleyT said:


> Jeeesh, he sure took chitty pics!!!


Well what can you expect from that YaBo......


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## RandyinTN

Gotta buy me one of these Timberlines, maybe next month. I have an inexpensive grinder but the photos of chains I seen sharpened with this look better than what my grinder can do.


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## CabinFever

Philbert said:


> Check out the 'Granberg File-N-Joint Revisited' thread:
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/
> 
> These could also be a good option for you. Less expensive, and more versatile.
> 
> Philbert


I have one of those contraptions somewhere from about 30 years ago. I could never get the hang of it. If I remember correctly, the chain would flex too much or maybe it was the file guide that moved too much or something. At any rate, it didn't work well for me. I am going to try to find it when I get home tonight and see which one I have. After reading the thread that you referenced, I will give it another try before I make any major purchase.


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## 7sleeper

The main cause when experiencing problems with the multitude of devices on the market is behind the Device.

7


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## CabinFever

7sleeper said:


> The main cause when experiencing problems with the multitude of devices on the market is behind the Device.
> 
> 7


I'm sure you're correct. My problem appears to be limited to using a round file. LOL


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## Modifiedmark

Hey @Philbert 
I picked this up the other day because it looked interesting and wasn't sure if I had seen one before. Looks like the Timberline idea might have been born from this Gamm sharpener. 

Instructions, order form and sales receipt came with it. It sold for $42 in 1981


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## Philbert

Modifiedmark said:


> Looks like the Timberline idea might have been born from this Gamm sharpener.


Apparently, it was. Don't know the details, but here is an earlier thread on it:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/gamn-chain-sharpener.28508/

Also several mentions of it earlier in this thread (hard to scan almost 40 pages! - SEARCH '_Gamn_' - _this thread only_), 


blackoak said:


> This sharpener , or one that looks the same was first introduced in the early 1980's. It was called the Gamn chain sharpener.



Including a reference to a Mother Earth News article:
http://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/chain-saw-sharpeners-zmaz81ndzraw

Philbert


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## Modifiedmark

Philbert said:


> Apparently, it was. Don't know the details, but here is an earlier thread on it:
> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/gamn-chain-sharpener.28508/
> 
> Also several mentions of it earlier in this thread (hard to scan almost 40 pages! - SEARCH '_Gamn_' - _this thread only_),
> 
> 
> Including a reference to a Mother Earth News article:
> http://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/chain-saw-sharpeners-zmaz81ndzraw
> 
> Philbert



If I get to come this weekend, I'll bring it with me for you to check it out. Probably send it home with you. I only gave $10 for it just out of curiosity.


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## CabinFever

Philbert said:


> Check out the 'Granberg File-N-Joint Revisited' thread:
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/
> 
> These could also be a good option for you. Less expensive, and more versatile.
> 
> Philbert


I rifled through some of my old stuff and found the file guide I got with my old Jonserud 49SP about 35 years ago.

It says "Fercad G.L. High Speed 75" on it. I found the photo below of the same one on the internet. I'll give it a try again.


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## snoozeys

I think i have used my timberline like twice since i bought it 2 years ago ... its gathering dust in the draw

Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk


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## RandyinTN

What don't you like about the Timberline that is allowing it to sit unused?


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## Nickatnite

RandyinTN said:


> What don't you like about the Timberline that is allowing it to sit unused?


I have been looking for a decent sharpener for years and have yet to pony up for one. I have yet to see a design that works consistently. With that said I see that that the Timberline has the best design outside of the mounting block being made from aircraft grade aluminum. The design flaw I see is that over time and in my opinion within very few uses the carbide sharpener shaving the walls as it is repeatedly removed and reinserted will create an angle shift thus rendering a chain junk. I pay $5.00 a chain here in N.H, I just had 15 of them sharpened from as many years of use. Cost was $75.00 so I think I am well ahead of the game at this point.


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## Philbert

_'Everyone has to find something that works for them" _- Philbert


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## Stihl 041S

Nickatnite said:


> I have been looking for a decent sharpener for years and have yet to pony up for one. I have yet to see a design that works consistently. With that said I see that that the Timberline has the best design outside of the mounting block being made from aircraft grade aluminum. The design flaw I see is that over time and in my opinion within very few uses the carbide sharpener shaving the walls as it is repeatedly removed and reinserted will create an angle shift thus rendering a chain junk. I pay $5.00 a chain here in N.H, I just had 15 of them sharpened from as many years of use. Cost was $75.00 so I think I am well ahead of the game at this point.


If you are only sharpening one chain a year........you are set for Life!!

Sharpen each one 5 more times and you are 90 years older


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## Joseph Fernandez

Now you have better options. This guide helps you choose better tool according to your budget: https://www.2kreviews.com/best-chainsaw-sharpener/ I have Stihl and I love this tool


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## HarleyT

That "Fish" guy sure put up some crappy pics!!


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## buttercup

My cheap grinder with a home made CNC'ed and pretty complicated vice I might add worked perfectly and would last a long time - if I did'nt start sharpen chains for the whole village...



You had a holiday this Easter? well I didn't.


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## Philbert

Timberline Knock-Offs

I guess it was bound to happen? Saw something on CL, which led me to Amazon. $34. 

Sure there are others on eBay, etc. 

Philbert


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## Stock

Only heard very poor things about these knockoff and Timber line do nothing about the use of their logo...........................................................


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## link

That Stihl USG is still new in the box, my DIY vice sharpener still holds up... barely that is - it just wont give in. 
Why change a w(h)inning team...


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## fields_mj

Philbert said:


> Timberline Knock-Offs
> 
> I guess it was bound to happen? Saw something on CL, which led me to Amazon. $34.
> 
> Sure there are others on eBay, etc.
> 
> Philbert
> 
> View attachment 1013414


I've seen them on ebay for inder $20. Some (most) of the pics in their adds are of an actual Timberline, but it looks like the cutters are more like a diamond hone than a carbide burr. I'm guessing they have a metric shaft making it impossible to use the standard carbide cutters. 

FWIW, I modified the guides on my Timberline by boring the ID out and pressing in some 1/4" drill bushing liners. Much smoother operation now, and the guides will stay true.


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## Philbert

Some people liked the Timberlines. Some did not. These knock-off / clones will give them all a bad name, like the PowerSharp clones. 

Philbert


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## Abbeville TSI

I'll stick with my Stihl FG2, although I would really like to have a USG grinder.


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