# epoxy finish on green wood?



## BigOakAdot (Apr 23, 2016)

I just built a firepit and I wanna make some simple walnut benches for it. I got some smaller walnut logs that I plan on halving for the seat and a 3" or 4" thick slab for the back. 

Would using an epoxy after letting them air dry for only a week or two cause any problems down the road? I'm okay with a crack here or there or slight warping but don't know I f this is even possible. Wouldn't applying an epoxy all but stop the drying process resulting in minimal warping?

This epoxy isn't supposed to yellow from the sun so I figured it would be perfect to help protect the wood and keep it looking good.

Thanks,
BOA


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## Adamant (Apr 25, 2016)

I don't know, but I would like to! If you decide to try it maybe you could let us all know...


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## jrhannum (Apr 25, 2016)

If you're talking about two-part pour-on resin, I tried it on a partially-dry red oak slab for a quickie bar-top; it lasted for the party but began to blister when out in the sun and was soon a mess; hadda belt-sand it away to let the slab dry for another two years -- then it was dry enuf to take the resin and not blister.


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## BigOakAdot (Apr 26, 2016)

jrhannum said:


> If you're talking about two-part pour-on resin, I tried it on a partially-dry red oak slab for a quickie bar-top; it lasted for the party but began to blister when out in the sun and was soon a mess; hadda belt-sand it away to let the slab dry for another two years -- then it was dry enuf to take the resin and not blister.


Yes I'm talking a two part epoxy for table tops. I was afraid of something like that. I was planning doing it with walnut and I dont want to install it with no sealer because I'm afraid it will dye the wood white over time. 

Any recommendations on something I can use to protect it when it's not fully dry? I can give it some time to dry and for what it's worth these logs have sat for a couple of years.


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## TedyOH (Apr 26, 2016)

I found this on another web site, I may try it as well as I'm working up a project very similar to yours......I am going to give the wood (first cut and leftover milled piece from log) 3 months to dry out a bit....I thought HD sold a stain for green wood but I can not seem to find it on line at the moment.

"I have however recommended boiled linseed oil and turpentine (50% 0f each) for putting on green wood, oak, for trailer decking. Many that I have sold fresh green red oak to have used it and have good luck with it."


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 26, 2016)

An oil finish that will breath is your best choice...

You can't stop the wood from moving, all you can do is slow it down...

SR


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## TedyOH (Apr 26, 2016)

Nice buck - I had one with high brows like yours and a tad wider wind me last year.....2 more steps he'd be over my fireplace.....


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## jrhannum (Apr 26, 2016)

I am trying Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer on years-dried Big Leaf Maple and Claro Walnut; followed by multiple coats of Epifanes spar varnish -- intent is to get tough, UV-resistant coat on the beautiful wood. Am waiting for the test of time (out in the sun for several hours per day) on my latest commission, if it fails I may try automotive clear coat (after I build a spray booth, etc.). The two-part pour-on resin does not like sunlight. Now-emerging technology to adapt UV-curing resins to wood finishing may have promise, but it's damn expensive now -- the lights alone cost hundreds and sunlight-exposure to cure it (as done with surfboards) seems a gamble. _ Is _this not just like our quest for the perfect chainsaw?


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## rarefish383 (Apr 28, 2016)

A friend of mine lives in Annapolis, by the Naval Academy, and works in St. Johns Machine/Wood shop. He says that the Epifanes spar varnish is the way to go on outside stuff, but still keep it covered when not in use. So, that's what I'll try on my next out doors bench, Joe.


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## BigOakAdot (Apr 28, 2016)

Is that something that you think would work okay on wood that isn't full dry? I milled my walnut very thick something like 3 3/4" thick or so. Logs aren't super wet given they have sat for some time. 

I got it all stacked and stickered last night and plan to give it some time in the summer to dry. I doubt I'll ever cover my benches except maybe winter months.


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## rarefish383 (Apr 28, 2016)

I don't know. I guess folks that have fancy boats with beautiful wood work always have someone waxing it. I'm still waiting for someone to turn me onto the right stuff. I have a stack of 3 inch Black Walnut slabs stacked, about 2 years old. Not ready to use it yet, Joe.


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 28, 2016)

rarefish383 said:


> I have a stack of 3 inch Black Walnut slabs stacked, about 2 years old. Not ready to use it yet, Joe.


 How do you know they aren't dry enough? Did you check them with a moisture meter? They may be dry enough right now...

SR


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## Timberframed (Apr 28, 2016)

linseed oil


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## rarefish383 (Apr 29, 2016)

Sorry Rob, I didn't mean they weren't ready, I'm not ready. Within 2 days I burned up my Harbour Freight planer and table saw. I bought the table saw before I got into wood working, just to do one project, putting in a paver walk. Used it to cut the stone. I'm surprised the bearings lasted this long. I let a buddy borrow the planer to make posts and rails for bannisters in his house, out of Hickory I milled. The posts were about 4X4, I was surprised it held up. I was running 1"X6" Oak fence boards, 50 or so years old, through the planer when it died. I have a gun show in July and I want to have a couple pieces ready for, one is a door prize display board for a rifle and the other is a display board for Lionel trains. I've got to get them done before I start on the Walnut, Joe.




















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## 67L36Driver (Apr 29, 2016)

Not to high jack but; Lionel steam turbine?






My FIL had a Lionel dealership '46-'58 or so. Wife ended up with most of his display trains.


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## Timberframed (Apr 29, 2016)

Rarefish, If you're in a bind, You're welcome to my shop near Carversville, Pa. Can't be all that far for ya if not too far from 95.


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## rarefish383 (Apr 29, 2016)

It's a 1948 Lionel 4110WS Electronic set. I have the complete set, but no boxes. It's radio controlled. The transmitter has color coded buttons set for each car. When you push a button for 3 seconds the lights come on or it dumps, what ever function that car does. If you push the button for 5 seconds it uncouples. So, you don't need an uncoupler switch in the track, it functions anywhere in the loop of track. It transmits a radio signal on the third, center rail of track. The transmitter needs a couple tubes replaced, so I've never had it in working condition. The train runs and functions well. Just need to have the transmitter tuned and the receivers tuned to match the frequencies of each car It is a 671 Steam Loco, Joe.


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## rarefish383 (Apr 29, 2016)

Timberframed said:


> Rarefish, If you're in a bind, You're welcome to my shop near Carversville, Pa. Can't be all that far for ya if not too far from 95.


Thanks for the offer. I just got off the phone with one of my cousins mechanics. His FIL just passed and he has a whole garage full of wood working tools. I'm going to take a look at what he has and might buy the whole shop. All I need is a planer and table saw. Jim said he had a two drum thicknesser I'd be interested in, so it might be worth it to just offer to buy every thing, Joe.


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## 67L36Driver (Apr 29, 2016)

The 671 electronic is a rare trainset.

I have the American Flyer set my parents bought in '47. I was all of three years old. I started collecting Flyer when we started adoption study with Division of Family Services. Our future children needed a toy train I figured.


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