# Arborjet EAB pesticide application



## RedArrow (Aug 16, 2013)

I went to a Sherrill training day and they demonstrated the ArborJet tree injection system. They discussed it being used with Tree-Age as a viable option for EAB "treatment" even with it needing to be applied every 2 years it's better than the alternative. So my question is: have any of you used the ArborJet system? If so, which one? Bottle or gun? Both? Also Tree:Age, or any other EAB treatment? Just wondering if anyone has used it, especially if it was applied a while ago where you would be able to tell if it's been successful. Tree-Age is pretty spendy so I'd appreciate any input you have on it, good or bad.


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## ATH (Aug 16, 2013)

I have been using it for 5 or 6 years. TreeAGE works very well. I use 5ml per inch dbh for trees less than 15" and 10ml per inch for the larger trees.

Most clients choose the "maximum defense" option: Tree Age every other year and imidacloprid every year.

It is spendy, but I buy what I need/know I have the demand for... Rainbow, Treestuff, and Midwest arborist supplies always get things shipped right away so if I need more to treat a new tree, I will have it in a couple of days.

The most important thing is to get the treatments in BEFORE the tree starts to show dieback.


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## RedArrow (Aug 16, 2013)

Does the TreeAge get diluted? 
Luckily it hasn't been found in my area... Yet (northern Minnesota)
So that's why I'd like to get into it ASAP.


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## ATH (Aug 16, 2013)

I think you can dilute it, but not necessary. It may go in easier...but it takes long enough, so I'd be concerned that diluting it will make it take longer.

Oh...and you asked Tree IV or QuickJet. Tree IV, hands down! I have both. I have only used the QuickJet a few times because it is difficult to use. Even with the Tree IV, there are usually a few plugs that go slower...those are nearly impossible to inject with the QuickJet. I am curious what others think, but I'd say that was a waste of money for me.


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## Urban Forester (Aug 18, 2013)

ATH said:


> I think you can dilute it, but not necessary. It may go in easier...but it takes long enough, so I'd be concerned that diluting it will make it take longer.



It's actually quicker. I dillute at a 1/2 ml of water per ml of Tree-age. I found it cuts the time by about 25%. I'll admit though that I use a lot more imidicloprid than emamectin benzoate. But my area is past the "wave" of destruction, that most of you guys are now dealing with. I agree with ATH, tree IV is the system of choice


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## ATH (Aug 18, 2013)

I will try some dilution next spring!

I think we are about 2-3 years away from being past the "wave". Won't be any untreated ash in the area by that time. Very rare to find one that hasn't been treated that is in good shape. I looked at a 66" dbh ash 2 weeks ago. He just moved into the house 2 years ago, and didn't pay enough attention to realize it was an ash until it started looking real thin this spring. Would have been cool one to save, but it is too far gone now. That would have been quite an investment for him anyhow...2/3 of a bottle of Tree-AGE for one tree!


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## Jace (Aug 25, 2013)

Last yr eab was found next county over in my location. Results are being "tallied" right now for this yr's traps. I bought 2 traps myself to put out next yr.

I have arborjet iv and gun. Hadm both for a yr and nvr used them yet, but I imagine I will beginning this coming spring on a few mature Ashes in the city cemetery, at the least. (Ill use the IV and tree age).


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## RedArrow (Feb 24, 2014)

Around what time of year do you start doing treatments? I've read it depends of that chemical/method you use. Any info is appreciated.


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## ATH (Feb 25, 2014)

For tree-age injection right as the leave reach full size...maybe a week or 2 earlier would be OK...then any time throufhout the growing season as long as there is moisture in the ground. Treat in the morning. If you treat too early in the spring or late fall it is difficult to get the product into the tree as it is not moving much sap.

I start with soil treatments as soon as the soil isn't completely saturated is the spring...generally a few weeks before I can start injecting.


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## TreeGuyHR (Mar 3, 2014)

I bought the Arborjet system last fall, and have mainly used it for bark beetle control in ponderosa pine (before attack, in a few cases after attack). This spring and summer I'll see results from the 50 or so trees I have injected, as the Ips bark beetle outbreak will continue this year. Due to the lag in translocation throughout the phloem in big trees, it may take 4 - 6 to protect a tree from Ips bark beetle attack (they start in the top). 

If I get a call for a pine being attacked within the bark beetle flight season (April through October) I may still climb the tree and apply a different insecticidie as a bark spray to the top (Sevin or dinotefuran). I bought the ArborJet system to get away from doing that, which is a huge amount of work: rig,climb, and prune out infested limbs and/or top; remove deadwood; return at dawn on a windless day, climb the tree in full rain gear, haul up a full back-pack sprayer, don giggles, mask, and rubber gloves, and spray; come down and wash all equipment including climbing gear and ropes, then hose down the drip area. For a large tree, I charged anywhere from $1000 to $2500, and did not make my profit margin. 

Arborjet, expensive as it is ($200 - $600 per tree) is cheaper and takes a more predictable amount of time. I inject a mix of ememectin benzoate for the bark beetle and propiconazole for the blue stain fungus. The same products will control branch canker, pitch moth, and shoot moth, which are fairly common.


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