# Vermeer SC252 Clutch/Electrical Problem



## Biskit

Hello all,

I searched, but didn't find anything about this...

I have a 2005 Vermeer SC252, and it is giving me problems. The biggest problem is the clutch won't engage properly. I was able to tap on it with a small hammer, (gently), and it would engage and work fine, until I disengaged it, then it was the same thing. This has been the case for the last couple jobs. Today I got to a job, tapped on it, it engaged, I ground up a large oak stump like it was nothing. I moved to the next stump, wheel still engaged, and barely hit the stump with the cutter wheel when I was trying to get lined up, and the machine shut off and wouldn't crank. I found that the fuse coming off the starter was blown. I wrapped tin foil around the fuse and was able to get it loaded up, but now I'm here scratching my wooden head. I replaced the fuse, and so far it hasn't blown, but I haven't had it up to full song with the cutter wheel engaged yet either.

I get plenty of voltage to the clutch when it's engaged, and the clutch seems to Ohm good, and is not grounded nor open. I have no clue why the clutch problem would blow the starter fuse, or if they are even related. I pulled the wiring out from under the engine and looked at all of the good, didn't find any problems there.

Does anyone know what the clutch should Ohm out to? It goes to infinity on my meter, which seems wrong to me.

I took the clutch off and sprayed it out with carb cleaner, but it didn't seem to help at all.

I would appreciate any help that anyone could provide. Like the rest of the stump grinders in my area, I'm so broke I can't pay attention, otherwise I would just replace the clutch, or better yet take it to vermeer. But...here I am.

Thank you for your time.

JT


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## pdqdl

My guess would be that it only shorts to ground when the clutch is engaged, or you have a short to ground somewhere beside the clutch magnet.

Test each lead for continuity (anything less than infinite ohms) to ground on the steel housing. You should have no continuity to ground. Then test the ohms resistance between the two wires that operate the clutch. Resistance should be rather low, but not quite zero. Sorry, I don't know the correct ohms.

If that all fails, start inspecting all the other wiring. Sometimes we look for the big expensive problem, when it is simpler and easier. 

Don't bypass any more fuses with aluminum foil. Buy a cheap circuit breaker to fit the fuse holder. If you have an intermittent short, it will re-set automatically, and then you are back in business. If it keeps tripping, have your test meter ready to help you find the short that is currently "shorted".


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## Biskit

Thank you for the reply. I normally wouldn't use the tin foil trick on the fuse, but I was in a bind. That was the only thing that allowed me to load the machine and bring it home. Working on it at the job site was not an option.

I have checked the things you said already, but I guess I didn't interpret the results correctly. Since my meter went to infinity between the two leads, and neither lead showed grounded, then maybe the wires are shorted together just inside the coil?

JT


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## Biskit

OK, I have determined that the problem is the clutch coil has an internal short. I have removed the coil from the clutch assembly, and I will be getting ready to rewind it next week.I should be able to determine what the Ohm reading on a new coil should be when I get to that point, but it would be extremely helpful if I could get someone, maybe even a few people, to ohm out the coil on their SC252, and post what the reading was. That would help me insure that I get the turns.

If anyone could help me out with this I would be much appreciative. If this works out, I may be able to help out some of the others here in the future.

Thank you,
JT


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## Biskit

*Update*

This evening I disected the coil, and sure enough it was a little burned in one arfea, which caused the short. I got the wire out in good shape, so getting the required info to rewind it should be easy. I also did some measureing and made a form for the coil. (Can't wind it in place, have to form wind it then put it inside the housing.) All I have to do now is wait until after the holiday weekend, and I'm going to go down to the motor shop and rewind it. I spoke with the owner today, my old boss, and got everything Oked, so...I wish me luck. 

If anyone would like to know how this turns out let me know and I'll post an update.

Thanks,
JT


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## Arboristo

I too have a problem with my clutch on my 2009 sc252. The problem is different from the above mentioned. When I want to engage the clutch, I need to touch the operator handles with my hands, otherwise you won't be able to engage the clutch. When you let go of the handles the cutterwheel stops automatically. Now this is normal, but since a few days the clutch start switching of by itself. This is very annoying as it sometimes happens 3 times a minute for about 10 minutes. Than suddenly the problem is gone and everything works like normal again. I have been searching for a few hours now to find the cause, but there no lose wires or anything. I just can't figure it out. :-(

Anyone an idea what it could be?


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## Aboveallelsetree

Had the same problem with my stump grinder. Try starting it without touching the op handles. I haven't had a problem since


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## Asubotnik

Anyone know of a site that will show which wire goes where on the clutch engagement switch. My father in law replaced the switch and now doesnt know where the wires go. Also the clutch will engage when hard wired to the battery but not with the switch. Is there a neutral safety?


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## TheAMMIXman

Asubotnik said:


> Anyone know of a site that will show which wire goes where on the clutch engagement switch. My father in law replaced the switch and now doesnt know where the wires go. Also the clutch will engage when hard wired to the battery but not with the switch. Is there a neutral safety?




There are two types of switches I beleive. Old style is just on or off. Newer style sits in the middle when on and one direction is engage other is disengage.

I may have the manual for both versions of the 252.

What year 252 do you have?
Does it have operator presence?

I have a 2012 252 with operator presence. If our machines are the same I’d be happy to snap a few pics of it and any wiring diagram I have after my lil girls B day party today or tonight once kids are asleep.



*side note*
@Biskit if your still on here I’d love to see any photos you may or may not still have of that re wind. I beleive you would have been workin on the circular style clutch and mine is triangular, nonetheless I’d love to see what you did there for a repair. I’ve never re wound a motor, I should have learned that from my old man while I still could have.


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## Asubotnik

TheAMMIXman said:


> There are two types of switches I beleive. Old style is just on or off. Newer style sits in the middle when on and one direction is engage other is disengage.
> 
> I may have the manual for both versions of the 252.
> 
> What year 252 do you have?
> Does it have operator presence?
> 
> I have a 2012 252 with operator presence. If our machines are the same I’d be happy to snap a few pics of it and any wiring diagram I have after my lil girls B day party today or tonight once kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> *side note*
> @Biskit if your still on here I’d love to see any photos you may or may not still have of that re wind. I beleive you would have been workin on the circular style clutch and mine is triangular, nonetheless I’d love to see what you did there for a repair. I’ve never re wound a motor, I should have learned that from my old man while I still could have.



Its a 2001 sc252. It has an on/off/on switch with 6 connect points on the back of the switch but theres only four wires going to it. Red,blue, green, and brown and i dont know what each wire goes to.


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## TheAMMIXman

Asubotnik said:


> Its a 2001 sc252. It has an on/off/on switch with 6 connect points on the back of the switch but theres only four wires going to it. Red,blue, green, and brown and i dont know what each wire goes to.


Mine is different. Three wires. Stationary is in the middle and is off AND run, up is engage, down is dis-engage. Picture here anywya. 

I’ll send the manuals I have soon as I can find out how to do so. They will likely be more helpful if they apply than my photo or comparing with my machine. One for sure is for an older model than mine, both appear for machines older than mine but the more recent one has been helpful to me at times.


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## Oddjobz

Posting for posterity. Not much info available.......

I currently have a 2015 SC362 also with a no clutch issue. Touch sense handles. 3 wires to the engage switch as poster above.
To test, usually best to do it with 2 people. remove the protector cover over the clutch so you can ck for power and ground.
Start the machine, low speed is enough. First I put my 12v tester ground to the positive lug on the starter. Tester positive lead to each
of the wires going into the clutch, one should cause the tester to light up. Put tester gound to chassis. Hand on the touch levers, one green light should come on. 
Flip the switch, second green light should come on and the power should be present on the other of the 2 wires entering the clutch.
If the clutch does not engage it is faulty. If no power goes to the clutch you may have a broken wire in the harness. If the second light does not come on the switch
may be defective. 

Power off and take your ohm meter. Remove the wires on the clutch. One lead to each terminal on the clutch.
If the clutch has continuity you should generally get 3 to 4 ohms of resistance......very similar to the clutch on an A/C compressor.
If you have no movement on your meter, most likely a broken wire inside. If you get full continuity you may have a short inside, check for
continuity from each terminal to clutch housing, you should not have any continuity........

I'm still working on mine, soon as I have a chance I'll pull the clutch off and see if I can open mine up....


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