# from Greenteeth to Sandvik wheel??



## trimmed_out (Mar 27, 2009)

Curious on the feedback, I am a new member and have been around tree work for many years and have been experienced with stump grinding and larger equipment. I remember taking our Carlton machines and switching from the Smart-pocket standard cutting carbide teeth to now the Greenteeth - three sided carbide - loosen and twist. Since our machines have seen the years from 1998 & 99 and considering new purchases....... What is the word from you'all who have had Greenteeth and are now using the Sandvik cutting wheel and teeth??


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## Mowingman (Mar 28, 2009)

I will let you know in a week or two. I just sold my grinder that had Greenteeth on it, and ordered a new grinder that has the Sandvic wheel.
I hear a lot of good things about the Sandvic wheel.
Jeff


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## arborworks1 (Mar 28, 2009)

The sandvik has to be one of the greatest improvements to stump machines. It is such a smooth cutting wheel. Greenteeth where always grabby, and made such large chips. The sandvik wheel makes small chips that pack down well and clean up easy. I only have 10 teeth that I change on a regular basis. I have rotated the back teeth forward, as they still have factory paint on them. But I didn't see any improvement in cutting when replacing the side teeth. Carlton makes a longer shank short tooth, which will help cut down on wheel wear.


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## trimmed_out (Mar 28, 2009)

*please expalin...*

Can you explain your statement of "Carlton makes a longer shank shorter tooth." .... are you referring to the new Sandvik cutting teeth or something else?? Thank you for your time.


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## arborworks1 (Mar 28, 2009)

It sticks out farther from the wheel than the standard short tooth. Which means the wheel doesn't contact as much dirt and debris. I haven't seen this tooth yet, but have been told about it.


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## trimmed_out (Mar 28, 2009)

*To Arborworks1 - How are the carbide teeth on Sandvik*

How are the carbide teeth on Sanvik wheels?? You said that you only change the main ten on a regular basis.... Do you feel you get your money out of those ten?? Do you change them less or more often than you would with the greenteeth?? Just curious if they are able to be reshaped by sharpening them on a benchgrinder greenwheel??... or is it not worth the time?? Trust me, I hear what you are saying and just want to ask all the rights Qs for the new purchases down the road. Thank you for your time.


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## arborworks1 (Mar 28, 2009)

I have sharpened my original teeth 3 times now. I have a guy that runs a sharpening service. He squares them back up with a diamond wheel. Don't hit any metal and you will be golden. Although I did chew completely through a drain pipe that was under a tree stump, and it didn't even scuff the teeth.


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## dave k (Mar 28, 2009)

I ran those long -short sandvik teeth and found them a pain ! they tend to become loose and even managed to snap a few. As for wheel wear I would say there is no real advantage over the standard tooth, my first two wheels ran for about 280-300 hrs. All that said I reckon you can not beat the sandvik system for durability, ease of grinding and ease of maintainance i.e no pockets and bolts to mess with. Till the next best thing comes along they are hard to beat !
Should explain further, the long shank short tooth sit out around 1" futher than the standard short lead teeth so the thinking is it should save wear on the cutting wheel however all I noticed was that the tooth seemed to want to" climb" out of the pocket due to the longer shank allowing some flex this also caused more failure of the carbide tips and some snapping of the lead teeth.


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## gr8scott72 (Mar 28, 2009)

dave k said:


> I ran those long -short sandvik teeth and found them a pain ! they tend to become loose and even managed to snap a few. As for wheel wear I would say there is no real advantage over the standard tooth, my first two wheels ran for about 280-300 hrs. All that said I reckon you can not beat the sandvik system for durability, ease of grinding and ease of maintainance i.e no pockets and bolts to mess with. Till the next best thing comes along they are hard to beat !
> Should explain further, the long shank short tooth sit out around 1" futher than the standard short lead teeth so the thinking is it should save wear on the cutting wheel however all I noticed was that the tooth seemed to want to" climb" out of the pocket due to the longer shank allowing some flex this also caused more failure of the carbide tips and some snapping of the lead teeth.



Just so people don't think this is normal, I have over 360 hours on my machine on the original wheel and there is no noticable wear on the wheel or even on the pockets. It's all in what kind of soil you have and I have neither rocks nor sand in the soil here.


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## howel07264 (Mar 28, 2009)

dave k said:


> I ran those long -short sandvik teeth and found them a pain ! they tend to become loose and even managed to snap a few. As for wheel wear I would say there is no real advantage over the standard tooth, my first two wheels ran for about 280-300 hrs. All that said I reckon you can not beat the sandvik system for durability, ease of grinding and ease of maintainance i.e no pockets and bolts to mess with. Till the next best thing comes along they are hard to beat !
> Should explain further, the long shank short tooth sit out around 1" futher than the standard short lead teeth so the thinking is it should save wear on the cutting wheel however all I noticed was that the tooth seemed to want to" climb" out of the pocket due to the longer shank allowing some flex this also caused more failure of the carbide tips and some snapping of the lead teeth.


Are you saying you replaced the "wheel" after 300 hours? I have been running the standard 1/2 inch sq. teeth [non sanvick] on my 7015 with 1800 hours and NEVER replaced the wheel. How much does a new wheel cost?


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## chips_r_flying (Mar 29, 2009)

I ran the Sandvik wheel also and thought it ran pretty good, I ended up purchasing a machine with a Sandvik wheel. It cut pretty good for me but the wheel was wore out in less than 300 hours! I got a quote to replace the wheel and it was going to cost me over $2,500 to replace the wheel. I've gone back to Green Teeth and they are working great.


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## ArborquipSP (Mar 29, 2009)

Just to let you know Carlton had sandvik make special teeth and pockets for them. Which means you have to buy the teeth from a Carlton dealer. If you buy the replacement teeth from sandvik the carbide will be rotated away from the front of the wheel. Sandvik site had a picture of the difference but it is not there any more.

Scott


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## arborworks1 (Mar 29, 2009)

I understand the difference in soil messing up the wheels, but completely worn out in 300 hours is a little extreme. The pockets can be replaced pretty easy. I have been to the carlton factory and they weld those pockets in onsite. I'm pretty sure a competent welder could replace the front pockets. The wheel might need to be balanced afterwards.


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## gr8scott72 (Mar 29, 2009)

ArborquipSP said:


> Just to let you know Carlton had sandvik make special teeth and pockets for them. Which means you have to buy the teeth from a Carlton dealer. If you buy the replacement teeth from sandvik the carbide will be rotated away from the front of the wheel. Sandvik site had a picture of the difference but it is not there any more.
> 
> Scott



Not if you have a 2006 model. 

I can get mine from any Sandvik dealer and don't have to get them from Carlton because I have the square hole teeth instead of the diamond ones.


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## arborworks1 (Mar 29, 2009)

You can change the side pockets for the sandvik squares, and then the front pockets will be the only ones that are carlton specific. They are the same price from carlton or new river, either way.


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## dave k (Mar 29, 2009)

It may seem to be extreme wear but I intend to get the wheels refurbished and on the third wheel I have taken to building up the wheel with a small amount of weld which seems to be working out ok. 
I took a long look at the amount of pockets and bolts I was using with Greenteeth and Proteeth and as my work tends to be in very bad ground I am still happy with the performance of the Sandvick system.


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## trimmed_out (Mar 29, 2009)

*What machine are you using??*



chips_r_flying said:


> I ran the Sandvik wheel also and thought it ran pretty good, I ended up purchasing a machine with a Sandvik wheel. It cut pretty good for me but the wheel was wore out in less than 300 hours! I got a quote to replace the wheel and it was going to cost me over $2,500 to replace the wheel. I've gone back to Green Teeth and they are working great.



Since you are from the Great Lakes MidWest region too, What machine are you using and What HP engine?? Thanks for your time.


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## trimmed_out (Mar 29, 2009)

*Wheel and Balance??*



dave k said:


> It may seem to be extreme wear but I intend to get the wheels refurbished and on the third wheel I have taken to building up the wheel with a small amount of weld which seems to be working out ok.
> I took a long look at the amount of pockets and bolts I was using with Greenteeth and Proteeth and as my work tends to be in very bad ground I am still happy with the performance of the Sandvick system.



Even though the extra weld is minimal in the momentum of the wheel RPMs,
How is the balance of the wheel after you added the extra weld to the pocket areas?? Did you notice any extra vibration?? And how did you balance it or with what kind of machine?? What kind of machine and HP engine do you have?? Thanks for your time.


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## dave k (Mar 30, 2009)

No difference to balance which was my big concern to start with , to be honest even when I have snapped a tooth out of the wheel you only notice a difference in the way it cuts not the balance. Iam only adding a small amount of weld like you would with a digger bucket on the wear surfaces.
My main grinder is the Carlton 8018 Pro with the kubota 99hp.


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## chips_r_flying (Mar 30, 2009)

trimmed_out said:


> Since you are from the Great Lakes MidWest region too, What machine are you using and What HP engine?? Thanks for your time.



I had a Carlton 7015 with a 79HP engine. The area right under the teeth - where the chip flow travels - was the area that wore out. The material wasn't beeing discharged away from the wheel and kept recirculating. It kept the chips from flying all over the place but also contributed to the wear pattern.


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## ibadvanced (Mar 31, 2009)

arborworks1 said:


> You can change the side pockets for the sandvik squares, and then the front pockets will be the only ones that are carlton specific. They are the same price from carlton or new river, either way.



You can't change the side pockets either-Carlton put the holes in the wheel are a little closer together so you can't do that


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## B-Edwards (Apr 1, 2009)

I sold my TRX-7015 with sandvik wheel on it, I kept my wheeled machine with green teeth on it. I used it the other day as I am now only part-time doing any tree work. OMG do I miss the TRX-7015. If I keep this machine I will absolutley put a Sandvik wheel on it. The job I did the other day I had chips spread all over the guy's lawn and i had screens up . The Sandvik is the best system I have used.


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## Bigstumps (Apr 1, 2009)

chips_r_flying said:


> I had a Carlton 7015 with a 79HP engine. The area right under the teeth - where the chip flow travels - was the area that wore out. The material wasn't beeing discharged away from the wheel and kept recirculating. It kept the chips from flying all over the place but also contributed to the wear pattern.




They don't make a 7015 with a 79HP engineopcorn:


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## chips_r_flying (Apr 1, 2009)

You are correct, I was talking to another guy about a 7015 and had that on my brain. I believe that machine was an 8018.


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