# How can I make the cycle time faster on this log splitter



## Countryline (Sep 3, 2018)




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## Tape (Sep 3, 2018)

you can't unless you replace the pressure valve (larger) and install larger supply lines and larger hydraulics and I doubt you'd gain 2 seconds, IMO 12 seconds ain't all that bad for 900$


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## Ted Jenkins (Sep 4, 2018)

More HP and bigger pump decreases cycling time. Or just sell what you have and start over. My cycle time is around 5 or 6 seconds, but still have to grab rounds and move the piles. My average is about one cord from 45 minutes to 75 minutes. With two of us 35 minutes if we do not stop to have a soda. Tape has it right $900 is not bad. Cycle time is only part of being productive. Thanks


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## Tape (Sep 4, 2018)

Wow Ted, about an hour per cord, that excellent..... kudos
Those times you would surely make a nice profit selling wood. I use a hand pump, I do not have much timber and the pumping helps keep my old ass in better health than having a gas unit.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Sep 4, 2018)

Larger pump, cylinder with large rod (fast return time) (then will likely need a "dump valve" (pilot operated valve) for most of the return stroke oil to bypass the splitter control valve due to high gpm.
Like my setup, 30gpm pump, return stroke is about 70gpm. (I forget the rod size at the moment, I want to say 3 or 3.25" on a 4.5" cylinder


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## homemade (Sep 4, 2018)

Bigger pump, or smaller diameter cylinder. Bigger pump requires bigger motor. Smaller cylinder will give reduction in splitting force. 

I’m currently crossing the same bridge and am looking at a twin engine/pump set up. Because a 5hp engine and 11 gpm pump with hoses can be had for less then $300.


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## 4seasons (Sep 4, 2018)

Simple answer, $$$$$.
Most of this has already been said but to gain speed, you need large pump, large motor to spin it, large hoses to handle the flow, and small cylinder with a large rod. 
If the cylinder isn't broken, it isn't worth replacing as it is the most expensive part.
To turn a larger pump, you will need a bigger motor. If you can find an old riding mower with a good engine for free, you could step up to a 22 gpm pump for about $200, but you will be on your on for mounting the motor and pump. Then you will need 3/4 in lines. (Does the cylinder and valve have 3/4 ports?) You may need a bigger hydraulic tank or oil cooler to deal with the heat generated by the higher flow.
So bare minimum, if you score a free engine (12 hp minimum) and get the engine mounted using your own fabrication skills, so all you have to build is a 22 gpm pump and pump mount, you are looking at $300. Also if it came with 3/4 hydraulic hoses (doubt it) so you could simply hook up the lines and start running, you can have a 7.3 second cycle instead of the 11.5 it came with.
$300 for 4.2 seconds is based on very best case scenario. More realistically you should throw in an extra $150 to upgrade your hoses. If you have to buy an engine, add in another $300-$600. Some vendors sell engine and pump log splitter build kits that start at $400 but to get a faster rate you may be looking at $800+ for just the pump and motor. In the end you could spend $1200 to get a 4.2 second faster cycle time.
The real question here is how much are you willing to spend to gain a few seconds per split?


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## hedge hog (Sep 5, 2018)

Replace the steel line with the bends in it going the end of the cylinder 

The bends help the oil warm up and the inside diameter is just shy of 3/8”



You will have come off the valve with a 90 but go into the cylinder straight 
The less 90’s help gain speed



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## hedge hog (Sep 5, 2018)

The 2 splitters I did this to gain around 2 seconds


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## sb47 (Sep 5, 2018)

Sell that one and buy this one.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-40-ton-log-splitter?cm_vc=-10005


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## JeffHK454 (Sep 5, 2018)

Most splitters have flow restrictors built into two stage pumps , a couple minutes with a screwdriver and you can increase the flow by roughly 74.8 %. 

That’ll take ur cycle down to around 2 seconds...it’ll make a SS seem slow!


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## greenskeeper (Sep 5, 2018)

Bah! A faster cycle time restricts the time to take a drink of your favorite splitting beverage of choice!


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## JeffHK454 (Sep 5, 2018)

greenskeeper said:


> Bah! A faster cycle time restricts the time to take a drink of your favorite splitting beverage of choice!



Eggzackly...most splitter manufacturers are also heavily into the brewing industry...that’s why they keep I’m slow , so ur good and hammered by the completion of the first cord.


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## sundance (Sep 5, 2018)

JeffHK454 said:


> Most splitters have flow restrictors built into two stage pumps , a couple minutes with a screwdriver and you can increase the flow by roughly 74.8 %.
> 
> That’ll take ur cycle down to around 2 seconds...it’ll make a SS seem slow!



Can you offer some details on these mods?


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## kevin j (Mar 15, 2019)

Cheapest: replace the 4 inch cylinder with 3 .5 inch or even a 3 inch. Lose force, much increase in speed. See my post in fast log splitters. 3 inch, 6 seconds out and back.

Once you start upsizing pumps, motors, valves and hoses, better to buy a whole machine and start over.


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## full chizel (Mar 15, 2019)

Racing hydro juice


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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 19, 2019)

Stroke reducing collars. $40.00


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## muddstopper (Mar 20, 2019)

If you already have the splitter, then you certainly dont want to spend more money to speed it up. If you want more speed and havnt bought this splitter, then it dont make sense to buy it and then start paying money to speed it up. Just buy what you want to start with, it will be cheaper and a lot less work. With that said, gaining speed without breaking the bank will result in marginable results, but is doable. first thing I would do is turn up the unloading pressure on the 2stage pump. Most of those small pumps kick down into low flow high pressure around 500psi. The little 6.5 hp engine should be able to handle the full flow at around 700psi. This will keep the pump in the high Flow mode a little longer and let it go back into high flow a little faster. I have found my splitter doesnt spend much time in the high pressure mode as most wood will split before the high pressure is needed. It doesnt cost a dime to turn up the kickdown pressure and that is the first thing I would try before spending any money buying other parts. The second thing I would do is install the stroke limiters. If you dont need full stroke, why run the cyl in and out when it aint doing any work. If you need 20 inch of stroke and you have 24in available, you are wasting 8ins of travel time every time you cycle the cyl. Once you have done those two things, faster cycle times are going to get more expensive to achieve. If you havnt already bought the slow splitter, it would be cheaper to just buy a faster splitter than try to upgrade the slow one. Then you can turn the kick down pressure up on the faster machine and add stroke limiters and speed it up even more.


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## kevin j (Mar 24, 2019)

I have an Excel spreadsheet specifically for simple splitter engine/pump/cylinder calcs, but I can't attach it because the .xls is not an allowed file type. Can any of you computer wizards pm me with a way to do it?


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## VirginiaIron (Mar 24, 2019)

If possible, take a screen shot and add to a .doc or jpeg/gif and post it that way. When we open it we can zoom in.


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## cantoo (Mar 24, 2019)

I changed all my 1/2" lines to 3/4" lines to hopefully speed things up. The 2 stage pump is a 1/2" fitting and the darn 36" cylinder is 1/2" fittings but the hole inside the cylinder is barely 1/4". It made no different at all. I had my splitter in the shop doing some other upgrades on it ( I just installed auto cycle a few weeks ago) I made a bigger cradle to stage the logs and I was standing there thinking that a floor board to rest my foot on while I wait for the cylinder to retract would be handy. Then I thought that's crazy I really need to speed this thing up. I'm planning to remove the cylinder and get it sent out to be drilled out for true 3/4" fittings and lines then maybe a bigger engine and pump? Has a 13 hp with 15 GPM 2 stage pump on it right now. It is fast enough but I've improved everything else so much that the cycle time seems slow again. This is a 4 1/2 hour pile of 32" splits.


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## hedge hog (Mar 24, 2019)

If you guys would study the 15,000 -80,000$ splitters there key to getting fast cycle times is the cylinder 
4.5 inch cylinder 25-28 tons.......
Most out there with a 1” to2” ram 
The same cylinder with a 3.5 inch ram (or rod ) will have a 1/2 the cycle time 
Because the ram is replacing the fluid that need to pumped into it
So if a 4.5 cylinder 24” stoke holds 1 gallon of fluid at full stroke and the return stoke with a 3” ram holds a little over a quart with 15 gallon minute pump 
The total cycle time is reduced because for the ram size and it’s all in the return stroke
And it’s the safest way to have fast cycle time 




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## Sandhill Crane (Mar 24, 2019)

Please send $15,000. cash and your splitter.
I'll make the proper mods and get it back to you asap.


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## kevin j (Mar 24, 2019)

VirginiaIron said:


> If possible, take a screen shot and add to a .doc or jpeg/gif and post it that way. When we open it we can zoom in.



that would only be a pic of a given combination of numbers. 
my goal is for anyone to download and run their own calcs to see what changes create what results.


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## esshup (Mar 25, 2019)

Would changing the viscosity of the hyd oil make any difference in speed or cause more problems? Reason for asking is that I noticed a hyd leak under my Troy-Bilt 27t splitter. About a drop every 1-2 seconds when running. So, it's time to clean all the crud off, and see where the leak is coming from & fix it. Since the owners manual says don't mix fluids, and I can't find exactly what fluid they recommend locally, I have to do a complete fluid flush and swap. All the hydraulic fluid I can find at the local farm store either has no weight rating or is only 20 wt, where the owners manual says 32 wt.

If I could find a trunion mount 4" dia, 24" stroke cylinder that had 25T of pressure and a 3.5" rod, with 3/4" lines I'd think about swapping out the ram. As it is, I don't see doing anything much more than that to mine due to the small engine size. It'd be better to start fresh or build my own. I can't see spending the $$ on a new motor, pump and cylinder I don't think it's worth it.


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## kevin j (Mar 25, 2019)

viscosity wont make any difference. 

You can mix fluids as long as they’re the same types. a log splitter application is pretty simple. if you have a good petroleum base in there now just use a good hydraulic fluid to add to it. if the fluid is deteriorated or oxidized that’s a whole different story


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 25, 2019)

esshup said:


> Would changing the viscosity of the hyd oil make any difference in speed or cause more problems? Reason for asking is that I noticed a hyd leak under my Troy-Bilt 27t splitter. About a drop every 1-2 seconds when running. So, it's time to clean all the crud off, and see where the leak is coming from & fix it. Since the owners manual says don't mix fluids, and I can't find exactly what fluid they recommend locally, I have to do a complete fluid flush and swap. All the hydraulic fluid I can find at the local farm store either has no weight rating or is only 20 wt, where the owners manual says 32 wt.
> 
> If I could find a trunion mount 4" dia, 24" stroke cylinder that had 25T of pressure and a 3.5" rod, with 3/4" lines I'd think about swapping out the ram. As it is, I don't see doing anything much more than that to mine due to the small engine size. It'd be better to start fresh or build my own. I can't see spending the $$ on a new motor, pump and cylinder I don't think it's worth it.



The large rod cylinders aren't a typical "off the shelf" cylinder.

Could call a processor outfit and buy one I'd imagine. I forget what a replacement cost on the Blockbuster 18-20, I have in mind about $900 with shipping.

Aw32 or aw46 will be the common hydraulic oil viscosities.


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## homemade (Mar 25, 2019)

I run aw46 in mine


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## muddstopper (Mar 25, 2019)

When you start putting bigger rods in cyl, you also have to start thinking about adding a dump valve for the returning oil. Putting bigger ports in a cyl isnt that big a deal. If you can take apart and put back together a cyl, own a drill and a welder, its something you can do yourself. Buying a cyl with a oversized rod is expensive, but depending on how resourceful one is and what junk can be found locally, one doesnt have to spend a arm and leg to come up with what they want/need. the scrap yards are full of, (not as much as they used to be) scraped out excavators, dozers, and such. Find one that has a cyl with the rod size you want. Take the rod to a machine shop and let them cut the cap of your current cyl to accept the larger rod, its possible they can cut down and rethread the cap off the larger cyl to fit your smaller cyl. They can thread the piston end of the rod to accept the piston out of your current smaller cyl. While the cyl is apart, redrill and weld in the larger ports. Add new seals assemble and your done. Your out the cost of the junk yard cyl and the machine work, but it should be a lot cheaper than buying a new specialty cyl.


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## cantoo (Mar 25, 2019)

I'm thinking of buying a smaller cylinder for my splitter as I'm only splitting ash anyway. I'll use sleeves on pins so that the cylinders are interchangeable when the Ash runs out. Driving by Princess Auto tomorrow morning so it might be difficult to stop the truck from turning in. 
Today splits are this side of the pile. 70 logs 13'- 2" cut at 16" long. 6 1/2 hours of splitting.


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## rancher2 (Mar 26, 2019)

Cantoo
If I were you I would save my money and not buy another hyd cylinder. If you are going to be splitting a lot of ash for several years I would just pickup a kinetic splitter and be done with it. Years ago when the speed pro hit the fan I got a pair that was bound for the scrap yard. One got a hyd conversion and a buddy is still using it today. The other I reworked with a jack shaft to slow the pinion down and we split lots of ash with that for several years until the ash trees ran out on the farm we were working on. I sold it then. If I were you I would look for a used SS or if you can't find one buy a new one use it until the ash runs out and sell it for close to what you paid for it.


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## muddstopper (Mar 26, 2019)

Funny, first time I have seen anybody suggest that a SS was good for ash, but you need something else if your splitting other types of wood. Trying not to form a opinion on this subject.


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## esshup (Mar 26, 2019)

Thanks guys re: the hydro fluid. I changed it all out just because it was a few years since last changed. Changed engine oil too since it's been a year. Now that brings up another question. During the fluid change, I noticed that the hydraulic tank is NOT vented. When I unscrewed the dipstick (it's on the inside of a 3/4" pipe plug) some air "whooshed" out of the tank. (Troy-Bilt 27t splitter).

I thought the tanks were all supposed to be vented?


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## cantoo (Mar 26, 2019)

rancher2, I've got 5 or 8 splitters now so shouldn't really get another one. ( I buy and sell stuff on the side, only an idiot would have 5 to 8 splitters. I do have around 20 saws though, I'm a collector not an idiot) I built this splitter for 32" splits for my OWB and decided I might as well sell some 16" ash before it all rots so made it to do that too. I can split enough wood for my own use in about 12 hours of splitting so I "want" a faster splitter I don't "need" a faster splitter. I had a couple of close calls yesterday splitting wood and I blamed it on me getting rammy trying to speed thigs up. Once the mud dries up and I can get back to the bush I will forget about splitting for awhile.
Mudd, kinetic splitters really shine on easily split wood where as hydraulics are designed to tear or cut tough stuff apart. Either one will work on the other wood but the kinetic will struggle on crotchy twisted crap and the hydraulic will feel molasses slow on wood that splits as soon as the wedge touches it if you cycle it the whole way. Kind of like using a Echo to cut meat and a Stihl to cut wood, that's what each is designed for but you can switch it up and it will still get the job done. Now Huskies, they are just boat anchors.


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## hedge hog (Mar 27, 2019)

It should be vented 



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## Wood Hound (Mar 27, 2019)

Their is a vent,you need to find and clean it...


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## rancher2 (Mar 27, 2019)

Cantoo
Years ago I did a lot of buying and selling of equipment and vehicles. Theirs some good money to be made. I don't do much these days. I still won't past up a good deal at a garage sale or estate sale. I currently have a splitter I bought last summer at a moving sale cheap. Its a old one that U haul rented out in the 80's runs and splits great just needs cleaned up serviced and painted. I was planning on getting it ready to sell for winter then other things got in the way.


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## esshup (Mar 28, 2019)

Thanks guys. I'll take a close look at it when it stops raining. I'm positive now that it's plugged.


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## esshup (Mar 28, 2019)

Update:

I don't know what kind of mud dauber will plug a 1/16" dia hole, but it was plugged tight. Had to take a small drill bit and clean out the hole from both ends and keep blowing thru the hole until it was clear. There is a small "L" shaped hole drilled in the pipe plug that is used as the dipstick cap. 

Thanks again guys!!!!!


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## hedge hog (Mar 28, 2019)

It doesn’t look like it has a riser and if it doesn’t screw a 6” nipple on it and screw the cap on it and shove a beer can on over it.


(A empty one)


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## muddstopper (Mar 29, 2019)

hedge hog said:


> It doesn’t look like it has a riser and if it doesn’t screw a 6” nipple on it and screw the cap on it and shove a beer can on over it.
> 
> 
> (A empty one)
> ...


Empty beer can first and make sure you have extras incase the first can doesnt fit just right.


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