# Drying Firewood



## Iron Head (Feb 23, 2011)

What is the fastest method to dry firewood?
Anybody ever stacked split wood in the sun and cover with black plastic?


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## bobt (Feb 23, 2011)

Split and stacked in the sun and breeze, yes. But if you cover with plastic black or otherwise,,,nope,not a good idea,,,as the plastic will hold the moisture in. Best to let it breathe, and cover only the top if you feel it needs to be covered. Most guys don't cover when freshly split, and then if possible, they move it under a roof of some sorts like a woodshed if possible afterward. In my case it gets left uncovered for a year and then burned.

Bob


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## chucker (Feb 23, 2011)

it will deff. draw the heat! only major problem with this system is moisture!! the escaping moisture will hang on if covered completly ... open the ends for air flow as well as haveing the top of the wood stack/pile not touching the plastic for better air movement...if your on the wet side of the cascades make double sure everything is off the ground also, like on palets or timbers... good luck !!


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## Iron Head (Feb 23, 2011)

Sorry I didn't mean to imply that the stack is totally covered and wrapped.
I'm leaving a foot or so of the bottom uncovered for ventilation.
And the bottom is pulled out away from the stack to channel the water condensates away from the wood.


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## pacman (Feb 23, 2011)

Also keep the wood off direct contact with the soil\ground use some garden timbers or pipe any thing to keep it off the ground. Wood pallets on the ground last about 2 years.I found some plastic pallets. I tried piling wood and stacking it also. Split ,stack cover with tin I think is the best method unless you have a open shed you can stack it under.


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## GLOBOTREE (Feb 24, 2011)

wood is good left to dry in the sun and then occasionally getting wet then dry helps to season perfectly. Covering the woods man is going to trap the moisture if it is airtight yes, good luck with getting the pile airtight. Like mentioned before, get it seasoned for a season, dry it out and then keep the woods dry. Put under a lean 2 or yeah cover it up so it does not keep getting wet. We like to leave the woods in rounds to season beyond one season. Split it when your ready~KEEP IT DRY thats the ticket. cheers and if ya see happy send him over!


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## Iron Head (Feb 24, 2011)

GLOBOTREE said:


> wood is good left to dry in the sun and then occasionally getting wet then dry helps to season perfectly. Covering the woods man is going to trap the moisture if it is airtight yes, good luck with getting the pile airtight. Like mentioned before, get it seasoned for a season, dry it out and then keep the woods dry. Put under a lean 2 or yeah cover it up so it does not keep getting wet. We like to leave the woods in rounds to season beyond one season. Split it when your ready~KEEP IT DRY thats the ticket. cheers and if ya see happy send him over!


 
You guys are right. I'm trying to reinvent the wheel doing more work than needed. Not to mention that Mother Nature knows best.


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## Ironworker (Feb 24, 2011)

Build a Holz Hausen like the one in my avatar, wood seasons in half the time,and on top you leave the splits bark side up, being the bark is water proof you don't need a tarp.


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## SkyP (Feb 24, 2011)

pacman said:


> Wood pallets on the ground last about 2 years.I found some plastic pallets. .


 
I thought it would be great to use some plastic pallets I was given...nope. Found that moving them around is a problem, too slippery, the wood slides off with the slightest chance. Would be good if never moved perhaps...
Just food for thought. I also found the ones I got are "leased" and have an RFID tag in them...wonder how far away they can read those things:msp_blushing:


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## peterc38 (Feb 24, 2011)

Stack on pallets in single rows, let the sun and wind do its job, cover before the snow flies.


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## branchbuzzer (Feb 24, 2011)

Iron Head said:


> What is the fastest method to dry firewood?
> Anybody ever stacked split wood in the sun and cover with black plastic?


 
The fastest way to dry firewood is in your wood stove. All moisture should be gone in about 2 or 3 hours if you already have a good bed of coals.*

The 2nd fastest method, aka the emergency "my tarp/plastic/roof blew off and now my wood is snowy/icy/soaked" method, bring wood inside and stack as close to the ceiling and stove as practical/safe. 130 deg F and 10% humidity dries wet wood real speedy. A heavy duty shelving rack with grated shelves works good for me.

At number 3, the outdoor and "normal" method ( Most "normal" people that don't burn wood for heat won't think you're normal, but just ignore them and do it anyway ). Stack in the sun if possible, sheltered on top but allowing for airflow. Many possible ways to do it, choose a way that fits your own situation best - an open air shelter, under an overhang of a building, out in the open and topped with plastic/metal roofing/etc. Some wood ( like oak ) needs babied more than others. Using what is best and easiest for your personal situation is key and don't get too anal. What works for one person in a certain area may not be necessary or practical for someone else - there is no one "best method".

For me, I season it over the summer out in the open in the sun with a cover on top of the stack ( unless it is RTG wood like dead locust ) then move most of it into an open air shelter or garage during a dry stretch in the fall. More work, but I need to do this because I live in a high humidity environment and very little sun hits the property in the winter. For wood that I burn myself I usually leave it outside, then use method number 2 listed above.

For keeping wood off the ground, I use splits of some low grade wood ( for me it's poplar, buckeye, basswood and their ilk ) placed parallel on the bottom of the stack. No purchase necessary.


* Don't actually do this, because you won't have any wood left by the time it dries out and then where ya gonna be?


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## outdoorsman0490 (Feb 24, 2011)

I make a big "platform" of wooden pallets, by the end of the season it my be 6 wide by 12 long. The wood gets stacked orientated from north to south so the wind can pass through as much as possible. Pallets make a big difference, the bottom wood seasons like the rest of the wood. The location is in a cleared out section of an empty wooded lot that gets a lot of wind and almost all day direct sun. I have seen green oak which was split immediately, get seasoned in around 6 months. No tarps or covers, just mother nature.


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## kstill361 (Feb 24, 2011)

I stack and let dry for a summer then cover with 6mil black plastic and nail it tight with button cap nails to keep the wind from shredding it. The plastic will last 2-3years when kept tight. I dump my ashes in the field so yes the nails get pulled before I burn. I have a source for the 6mil so I dont reuse it, it gets thrown away as I use the wood


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## CrappieKeith (Feb 24, 2011)

branchbuzzer said:


> The fastest way to dry firewood is in your wood stove. All moisture should be gone in about 2 or 3 hours if you already have a good bed of coals.*
> QUOTE]
> 
> You having fun with us right?


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## TN_WOOD (Feb 24, 2011)

CrappieKeith said:


> branchbuzzer said:
> 
> 
> > The fastest way to dry firewood is in your wood stove. All moisture should be gone in about 2 or 3 hours if you already have a good bed of coals.*
> ...


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## branchbuzzer (Feb 24, 2011)

CrappieKeith said:


> branchbuzzer said:
> 
> 
> > The fastest way to dry firewood is in your wood stove. All moisture should be gone in about 2 or 3 hours if you already have a good bed of coals.*
> ...


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## StinkyBunny (Feb 24, 2011)

I put rubber roofing mats over top of my piles. It warms and drys the wood all the while allowing air to circulate through the pile.


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## Muffler Bearing (Mar 11, 2011)

kstill361 said:


> I stack and let dry for a summer
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## TMFARM 2009 (Mar 11, 2011)

i stack all ours inside after its split... i usually let it dry a while in log form (3-4 months) then buck and split it stack inside off ground and it sets for another year....i do this due to theft.. we had stored it outside but someone stole 4 cords worth in a single day in broad daylight.. and yes no one saw a thing....same neighbors that didn't see 2 semi's hauling round bales of hay out of here...
anyhow... we store everything inside once its cut to length. i had a pick up truckload of logs taken from here this winter...i have two more barns to put up setting on pallets , but these are open style.. one is hoop building (open ends) 22'x48' the other is a 20'x 30' three sided shed, haven't put them up because i feel anything inside them would be stolen..


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## darkbyrd (Mar 11, 2011)

SkyP said:


> I also found the ones I got are "leased" and have an RFID tag in them...wonder how far away they can read those things:msp_blushing:


 
A few feet... I think you'll be good


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## ottiscan (Aug 22, 2011)

*solar wood cooker*



Iron Head said:


> What is the fastest method to dry firewood?
> Anybody ever stacked split wood in the sun and cover with black plastic?


 
I've been trying to use a semi-solar wood dryer. It's a bow roof shed with metal siding on the north side (we get a lot of wind here) and fibreglass reinforced vinyl sheet on the south side. I had green wood delivered in early june and it is looking quite dry and cracked now in aug. It warms up quite a bit inside.

I leave the sheeting rolled up about 4' during stretches of fine weather and roll it down when it's raining. Its working quite well so far. 

There's 3 chords stacked 6 1/2 feet high in the shed. Shed is 10X12 feet.

A few pictures are attached.


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## Fyrebug (Aug 22, 2011)

I wish I could find it and post it here but there was a published University paper on the fastest way to dry wood. They found you could have wood dry enough to burn (less than 20% humidity) in about a couple of month if done right. From what I recall, it pretty much involved what everyone had stated here. 


Proper wind & Sun exposure
Do not use plastic or rubberized material on top. instead use an old plank
Keep off the ground and allow plenty of air to move under and around the logs
Wood must be cut & split with logs no bigger than 6" diameter (Round logs take forever to dry)

I think the mistake many of us make is to think that a longer period of 1 year of more will mean dryer wood. I have 3 year old cherry in my garage that refuses to go below 12% humidity. Once the wood reaches a certain level, I think it wont go much dryer unless you put it in a kiln.

A good tool for any wood burner is a digital moisture reader. View attachment 196137
Click on link. Dont know why pic didnt upload. 

These are available at some hardware store from $40 to $80 depending on the brand & quality. Handy tool to have around. Anything below 20% humidity is good to go.


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## zogger (Aug 22, 2011)

*that's cool*



ottiscan said:


> I've been trying to use a semi-solar wood dryer. It's a bow roof shed with metal siding on the north side (we get a lot of wind here) and fibreglass reinforced vinyl sheet on the south side. I had green wood delivered in early june and it is looking quite dry and cracked now in aug. It warms up quite a bit inside.
> 
> I leave the sheeting rolled up about 4' during stretches of fine weather and roll it down when it's raining. Its working quite well so far.
> 
> ...



That's real similar to how our greenhouse is built, with rollup sides at the bottom.

But for the wood, I use open air stacks with black plastic on the very top, with just a little overhang for a drip edge. I don't nail it, just use some oddball big odd pieces to hold it down, the "all nighter" pieces. 

It's only once in awhile that we get heavy snow, so I am not worried about that sort of accumulation.

Bottom line is, it is hard to beat any sort of dedicated wood shed.


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## audible fart (Aug 22, 2011)

ottiscan said:


> I've been trying to use a semi-solar wood dryer. It's a bow roof shed with metal siding on the north side (we get a lot of wind here) and fibreglass reinforced vinyl sheet on the south side. I had green wood delivered in early june and it is looking quite dry and cracked now in aug. It warms up quite a bit inside.
> 
> I leave the sheeting rolled up about 4' during stretches of fine weather and roll it down when it's raining. Its working quite well so far.
> 
> ...


 
That's pretty cool.


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## Misfit138 (Aug 22, 2011)

Sun exposure is most important, plain and simple. Air/wind exposure is a close second.

If you want to keep the rain and snow off, use _clear_ plastic suspended by your choice of lumber in a 'roof' configuration with some side overhang. In this way, moisture will collect on the underside of the plastic and fall off beside the woodpile. Fasten the clear plastic to the 'framing' with staples.


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## ottiscan (Aug 22, 2011)

*I agree*



zogger said:


> That's real similar to how our greenhouse is built, with rollup sides at the bottom.
> 
> But for the wood, I use open air stacks with black plastic on the very top, with just a little overhang for a drip edge. I don't nail it, just use some oddball big odd pieces to hold it down, the "all nighter" pieces.
> 
> ...



I used to open stack and just tarp the top of the pile until the snow started falling. Then I'd wrap the entire pile once no further drying was possible.

I turned to the shed option because the tarps would rip constantly in the wind, and tying and untying the pile was a task when frozen. Also, snow and rain always found a way into the pile at the bottom. I'm hoping the shed will address some of that.

The shed is sitting on an old deck which I've removed some of the boards between the rows to allow more air flow from the bottom even when it's closed up. I'll skirt the shed in winter to keep the snow out. The shed is also vented at the top on either side to allow the hot moist air out. These will be closed once it gets cold as well.


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## Nosmo (Aug 22, 2011)

*What I Do*

Wind and sun are great helpers in getting your firewood seasoned after splitting the rounds.
I have over 150 feet of open concrete block foundation that I can stack firewood on right out in the open with full sunshine and wind.

Even some of the sappiest Elm gets dried out after several months in our blistering Oklahoma sunshine and heat. About wood burning time I'll move some of it under cover as I am moving the next group I will be burning up near the stove.

It is not a good idea to cover your pile with plastic unless it is just for a short time - for instance during a snow or rainstorm.

Nosmo


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## Wood Doctor (Aug 22, 2011)

Iron Head said:


> What is the fastest method to dry firewood?
> Anybody ever stacked split wood in the sun and cover with black plastic?


Forget plastic or tarps. Stack the wood on pallets or on river rock or crushed rock for drainage.

Let the sun and wind dry the wood. Covering logs or storing them in a garage means nothing and usually extends the drying time.


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## greenbastard (Aug 24, 2011)

Iron Head said:


> What is the fastest method to dry firewood?
> Anybody ever stacked split wood in the sun and cover with black plastic?


 Covering with black plastic will only heat the plastic...what I did was make a frame with pvc pipe and covered with clear plastic....sun goes thru and heats wood like a greenhouse..left both
ends uncovered for air flow-thru....had the covered pile beside an uncovered pile to compare...the covered wood dried faster and stayed dry...it rains alot in B.C......


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## STLfirewood (Aug 24, 2011)

The easiest way to get your firewood to dry quick is to split it small. I dry wood anywhere from 6 months to 1 year. if I am closer to selling time I split it smaller. I never have any complaints. I also keep all my wood under roof. My shed is 45'x76' with open sides all around. The wood really seasons well under roof. If I really want it to dry fast I put it in my kiln. Three to five days later my fresh cut tree is ready to burn.


Scott


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## clinchscavalry (Aug 28, 2011)

I always procrastinate and cut my firewood several months later than optimum, but I'm always busy with something else it seems so I have to wait until the long (and hot) days of summer to get the job done. That, plus we get most of our blowdowns and broken limbs while the trees are in full foliage, and that's where about 99% of my wood comes from.

It's now "cooled" down to 102.9 after hitting 103.1 just a little while ago:msp_ohmy:. I believe I can season my split wood in two months when it starts out like this, especially when the humidity stays low. When I walk by the trailer or wood shed, it smells just like a furniture factory dry kiln. The wood is literally cooking right now.

As someone mentioned, wood stacked outdoors will only get so dry, around here the magic no. seems to be 13%. That's based on years of air drying lumber and checking with a moisture meter. I believe previous posters are right in that the wood needs to be out in the open and in the sun and wind as much as possible. Shade under trees or confined areas like sheds with walls hinder the drying significantly. However, an open-sided shed might be the best compromise between unprotected stacks out in the rain and fully protected areas in a building.

I intend to sample some freshly cut wood today with the meter and keep up with the drying process this year.

Right now, the wood on my trailer is probably curing just a little slower than in a full blown kiln since I have hauled it around for miles in this heat while working on getting a full load. Another 100 miles at 55 mph will probably have it spontaneously combusting:msp_rolleyes:


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## clinchscavalry (Aug 31, 2011)

I took some moisture readings on my freshly cut and split pecan yesterday and got some surprising results.

The splits pieces and rounds varied depending upon where the measurement was taken, which is to be expected, but the wood was much "drier" than I thought it would be. All of the samples were taken from trees which blew down about a month ago and that slowly lost their green leaves as the remaining attached roots couldn't keep up with demand. So these trees are essentially green to begin with.

The ends averaged about 25%. The split surface was around 30%, while the measurement taken under the bark was about 35%. This is lower than I expected, but our temps have been in triple digits nearly every day with a good breeze and low humidity.

One poster said 20% or lower was considered seasoned. At this rate, I'll have good firewood by the time our burning season starts around the first of November.

Incidentally, the measurements were taken with a moisture meter calibrated for pecan using the long probes driven in with the built-in ram. I'm sure the moisture readings in the center would be somewhat higher, and I might cut into (or re-split) a couple just to see.


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## Rudedog (Aug 31, 2011)

zogger said:


> That's real similar to how our greenhouse is built, with rollup sides at the bottom.
> 
> But for the wood, I use open air stacks with black plastic on the very top, with just a little overhang for a drip edge. I don't nail it, just use some oddball big odd pieces to hold it down, the "all nighter" pieces.
> 
> ...


 
This is exactly what I do. I don't put the black plastic 6 mil on until late September when we get a rain forecast. I weight it down with softball size and larger blue stone pieces. When we get any snow I just brush it all off the best I can. I need to replace my collapsing 8X14 storage shed before I think of building a wood shed. By the way, if anybody has some decent plans for a roughly 8X14 storage shed that are relatively easy to follow and build with two people........ send 'em to me!


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## ottiscan (Oct 14, 2011)

Rudedog said:


> This is exactly what I do. I don't put the black plastic 6 mil on until late September when we get a rain forecast. I weight it down with softball size and larger blue stone pieces. When we get any snow I just brush it all off the best I can. I need to replace my collapsing 8X14 storage shed before I think of building a wood shed. By the way, if anybody has some decent plans for a roughly 8X14 storage shed that are relatively easy to follow and build with two people........ send 'em to me!


 
You can make a bow roof shed quite inexpensively, and they're strong. For boat building they cover with poly sheet but you can put metal siding on them as well. Here's the link for the plans.

Stimson Marine - Bow-Roof Shed


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## Rudedog (Oct 21, 2011)

ottiscan said:


> You can make a bow roof shed quite inexpensively, and they're strong. For boat building they cover with poly sheet but you can put metal siding on them as well. Here's the link for the plans.
> 
> Stimson Marine - Bow-Roof Shed


 
Thanks for the link!


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## Streblerm (Oct 21, 2011)

Rudedog said:


> This is exactly what I do. I don't put the black plastic 6 mil on until late September when we get a rain forecast. I weight it down with softball size and larger blue stone pieces. When we get any snow I just brush it all off the best I can. I need to replace my collapsing 8X14 storage shed before I think of building a wood shed. By the way, if anybody has some decent plans for a roughly 8X14 storage shed that are relatively easy to follow and build with two people........ send 'em to me!


 
Here's a handy little gambrel roof shed that I have built a few times. It is 10' wide and as long as you want. The first one I built was 10X12 with roughly 5' sidewalls. It was very economical to build that size because the scraps from the sidewalls were enough to fill in the gable ends. The second one is 10X16 with 8' sidewalls. I did the overhangs a little different (simpler and less) than the plans specified, but it is just a garden shed. The walls and base are pretty basic construction but the plans for the gambrel trusses save a lot of head scratching. I drew the layout for the trusses on the base for the shed and nailed down some stop blocks so all the trusses are the same. Even if they are off a little, at least they will all be off the same amount.

If you want the plans, pm me your e-mail address.


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## wapacz (Oct 21, 2011)

ottiscan said:


> I've been trying to use a semi-solar wood dryer. It's a bow roof shed with metal siding on the north side (we get a lot of wind here) and fibreglass reinforced vinyl sheet on the south side. I had green wood delivered in early june and it is looking quite dry and cracked now in aug. It warms up quite a bit inside.
> 
> I leave the sheeting rolled up about 4' during stretches of fine weather and roll it down when it's raining. Its working quite well so far.
> 
> ...


 
Now you just need to get some mylar and make a big mirror to get even more sun on it and heat it up more.


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## amscontr (Oct 21, 2011)

We have always had good luck with a black vinyl tarp covering stackable pallet racks on the top and partially on the sides in the sun. The mice love it too!


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## clinchscavalry (Oct 21, 2011)

I got my moisture meter out the other day and checked some split and stacked pecan that has been drying for about two months. It measured around 20% and seems to be about ready to burn. I've been trimming and sorting large limbs all summer that constantly break any time we have just the slightest wind event, and I'd guess I started out with about six cords. The fresh wood measures nearly 40% moisture, and it'll take some time to dry out this time of year. Back when I cut the first wood, it was over 100 degrees with low humidity. It doesn't take long in those conditions:msp_thumbup:View attachment 203827
View attachment 203828
View attachment 203829
View attachment 203833
View attachment 203834


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## ottiscan (Oct 22, 2011)

Not a bad idea. This spring, summer and fall have been very wet in Nova Scotia and a lot of people who burn wood for heat comment on how it's been a bad drying year. In the the shed my wood is cracked and looks great. Bring on the snow.






wapacz said:


> Now you just need to get some mylar and make a big mirror to get even more sun on it and heat it up more.


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## CRThomas (Nov 6, 2011)

*Need info*



peterc38 said:


> Stack on pallets in single rows, let the sun and wind do its job, cover before the snow flies.


My shop is 20 by 20 I am going to use half of it to dry firewood in. I keep it about 64 degrees have large fan 6 feet tall. I was wondering what time it wood take to dry hard wood I know all woods are different but just a ball park. My kiln drier will do 3 rank in 2 to 3 days but that is with 120 degrees. I have evaporate also that stand 4 feet tall thanks for info


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## STLfirewood (Nov 6, 2011)

Where is Southern IL do you live? Do you have a wood stove in your container? I heat mine to 190 degress or so.

Scott


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## CRThomas (Nov 7, 2011)

*Info*

How long does it take for you to dry your wood. I live across the river from Cape Girardeau Mo. I am wanting to use part of my shop as quick drier. I am going to run out of dry wood and I will not sell green wood. My partner he likes to sell bulk. Bulk eats up your stockpile quick. Wrapped firewood is more money and less work. My storage areas small maybe a acre. We already half way thru it and it's not even January yet.


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## CRThomas (Dec 11, 2011)

*Reply*



greyfox said:


> Build a Holz Hausen like the one in my avatar, wood seasons in half the time,and on top you leave the splits bark side up, being the bark is water proof you don't need a tarp.


I took your Holz Hausen system and played with it. It works great in the Kiln but it cuts down on volume of wood but the out come is the same amount of wood because at the end your HH system the drying time is shorter but the set up takes longer. The regular way is faster loading but longer drying time. Later some thing you might want to try and it works I heat my shop with a wood stove I put two half ranks in front of my stove I fire my stove up put a fan between the stacks. One fan pulls the hot air thru one stack and pushs it thru the other stack. I can dry one rank of ash every day. The first half rank is two feet from stove two feet the fan a five foot fan two feet from first half rank then two feet and the second half rank that pulls it down to under under 25 percent. I learned this by accident. I can dry 4 to 5 rank a week depend on how lazy I get that week.


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## zogger (Dec 11, 2011)

clinchscavalry said:


> I got my moisture meter out the other day and checked some split and stacked pecan that has been drying for about two months. It measured around 20% and seems to be about ready to burn. I've been trimming and sorting large limbs all summer that constantly break any time we have just the slightest wind event, and I'd guess I started out with about six cords. The fresh wood measures nearly 40% moisture, and it'll take some time to dry out this time of year. Back when I cut the first wood, it was over 100 degrees with low humidity. It doesn't take long in those conditions:msp_thumbup:View attachment 203827
> View attachment 203828
> View attachment 203829
> View attachment 203833
> View attachment 203834



Man, you have a *nice* place to work. And dual income woodlot! That's the way to do it!


Around here, what I see is most of the woodlots look like huge weeded out gardens, just trashed out filled with criopled trees and less desirable spcies and brush and weeds. Years of taking the best timber plus just the best oak and hickory, leaving random slash piles and people got some rank hard to work in lots.


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## CRThomas (Jun 27, 2012)

*Drying*

The type wood you are drying makes a differents. Lot of folks think there wood is dry but take a meter and cut the wood into check it there you will find the end 10 to 15 percent and the middle still 25 to 30 percent. I dry mine till the ends are 8 to 10 percent then the middle will be 14 to 15 percent later


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## ShaneLogs (Jun 27, 2012)

SkyP said:


> I thought it would be great to use some plastic pallets I was given...nope. Found that moving them around is a problem, too slippery, the wood slides off with the slightest chance. Would be good if never moved perhaps...
> Just food for thought. I also found the ones I got are "leased" and have an RFID tag in them...wonder how far away they can read those things:msp_blushing:



Have you ever tried pressure treated pallets ? That is what I have my wood stacked on now.


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## haveawoody (Jun 27, 2012)

A real quick way to dry firewood is to lay down a sheet of black poly on the ground and put a bunch of nail holes in it to allow moisture to depart the floor, stack you split firewood on skids then build a clear plastic leantoo over it all 2"x2" lumber as frame and make sure is does not touch the wood.
Face the stacks south for best results and 0 airflo will make for near cooking temps inside.

1 month in summer of mainly sunny days for fully cured wood of any type.
2-3 months in fall or spring.
A great way to dry rounds of those wet woods that take ages to cure like hard elm, fruit woods, locust etc.
Make sure the clear layer touches no firewood, if it does it will rot at light speed.


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