# Help identifying hydraulic cylinder



## PA Dan (Oct 19, 2012)

Can anyone help identify this cylinder? I got a homemade log splitter and am rebuilding it before I try to use it. It was given to me by a neighbor when I helped him take down a dead tree in his yard. The last time it ran was 2002. I had no idea what engine was on it the pull has no info and this is the cylinder. The valve is marked Dayton 4 way directional control valve. The cylinder is 3.5" bore with a 2" piston and is around 32" long. It has a screw off end. There are some numbers cast into the end but unreadable. I have some stripper on that end to eat the paint away but still hard to make out what they are. I want to get new seals for it so any help would be great! I have a Honda 6hp engine for it and all new hydraulic lines and fittings. I am reusing the reservoir and cylinder. The wedge is welded onto the end of the beam. I remade to ram end to push the logs.


















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## PA Dan (Oct 22, 2012)

Sorry about the double post! I was having some issues with getting it to post! I was told the cylinder came off of a backhoe. I have no idea what the pump is and it has no numbers or markings. Anyone have any ideas?

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## Eq Broker (Oct 23, 2012)

Dan,

I would recommend a Hydraulic Rebuilder in your area. They can usually idenitfy the cylinder and repack it for you saving you money rather than buying new.

Hope this helps!

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters


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## stltreedr (Oct 23, 2012)

I agree with the above, any hydraulic shop should be able to rebuild/ fix your cylinder no matter what it was from- the internals are all pretty much the same.


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## stihl023/5 (Oct 23, 2012)

Yes best bet a hyd. shop


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## PA Dan (Oct 26, 2012)

I checked with a local shop and was quoted $160-$180 to rebuild the cylinder. Does that sound about right for the job? Let me know.

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## Eq Broker (Oct 26, 2012)

PA Dan said:


> I checked with a local shop and was quoted $160-$180 to rebuild the cylinder. Does that sound about right for the job? Let me know.
> 
> Sent from my DROID X2



It might be a tad high however the cylinder could be well over $300 new. 

Dave


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## Pelorus (Oct 27, 2012)

Eq Broker said:


> It might be a tad high however the cylinder could be well over $300 new.
> 
> Dave



Does the quote include re-chroming the rod / cyl or just replacing the seals?
I think I would check into the cost of replacing the cylinder with a new one from someplace like Northern Hydraulics or TSC before spending that much on the old one.


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## PA Dan (Oct 27, 2012)

That only includes the seals and seemed way higher than what I expected to near. I have two other places I'm looking into. I also think I'm going to assemble and try it now before replacing seals. I had an accident at work broke my finger and had surgery on Wednesday. I want to get the splitter together and see if it will work fir now. Ill have my sons run it and do more upgrades in the spring. I have about 2-3 cords of mostly cherry with a little ash that I have to get finished with. I should be assembling everything this week and try firing it up when I'm on vacation week of Nov 4th. 

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## stihl023/5 (Oct 27, 2012)

If you can check closed and extended lengths the rod dia and price a new one


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## Pelorus (Oct 27, 2012)

If the old cylinder rod is pitted or rusty I think the new seals are gonna get miserable., and that cylinder looks to be as old as Moses.


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## PA Dan (Oct 27, 2012)

Ya the outside doesn't look all that good but the rod looks great. I had it extended around 12" and it was clean and no rust or pits. When I got the splitter it was full of oil and the rid was retracted fully. Wasn't sure what it was going to look like but was happy when I saw it.

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## triptester (Oct 27, 2012)

If you can pull the cylinder apart and just take the piston in they should be able to give you the right seals that you can install yourself. That should cut the cost to a minimum.


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## PA Dan (Oct 27, 2012)

I will try to pull the rod out and replace the seals that way. I thought I could probably do it myself. We have a hydraulic shop at work but I can't get it done there! The mechanics there have told and showed me how to do it


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## PA Dan (Oct 27, 2012)

I have another question... I replaced all the hydraulic lines except the line from the reservoir to the pump. This one was just a peice of flexible hose with clamps on the ends. What type of hose should I use to replace that one?

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## PA Dan (Oct 28, 2012)

Got the rod out with 26" exposed. Looks pretty clean only fell a few pits. Am I correct that I have to beat it the rest of the way out? Let me know.








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## JHctRednek (Oct 28, 2012)

Maybe the Parker O-ring handbook can help you out.

http://www.parker.com/literature/O-Ring Division Literature/ORD 5700.pdf


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## triptester (Oct 29, 2012)

The first thing to do is place some wooden supports under the rod ,then pry out the wiper gland. I would push the rod back in before removing the glandto lessen the possibilty of dropping the rod.


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## Frank Boyer (Oct 29, 2012)

Support the rod and cap one of the hydraulic ports and hit it with low pressure air. The rod should come right out. DON'T stand in front of it when you hit it with air. Check with your techs at work and find out where they get their hydraulic seals from. A couple of years ago someone posted the name of an online shop that had great prices on seal kits. Once you know the rod size and the top seal ID and OD you should be able to find a kit. Weld an extention on a hone if the bore needs cleaning up.


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## PA Dan (Oct 30, 2012)

Well I got it out! Everything inside and out looks way better than I imagined it would! The bore is clean and the rod is shiny! Ill take it to some shops and see if I can get the seals for it! Thanks for the help!











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