# Advice on chainsaw sharpener



## rfalk (Nov 10, 2006)

Hi,
I am looking into buying an electric chain sharpener....don't want to spend too much....do the bench mounted $50 cheapo's from Harbor Freight and those found on Ebay work? I don't do so much chainsawing that I can justify a $1200 Stihl sharpener, but I don't want to throw $ away either. Any advice would be appreciated. bob


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## computeruser (Nov 10, 2006)

Welcome to arboristsite!

The cheap ones from HF work OK. You can get 'em for $30 if you wait for a sale. The will sharpen a chain and do a decent job, but there are better choices out there.

Your best bet, investment-wise, is the Tecomec 136 that shows up on eBay for about $210 BIN. It is the identical unit to the Oregon 511A (Oregon just rebadges Tecomec's unit and charges more) and it a very good machine that will last a lifetime for the average saw user.


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## jags (Nov 10, 2006)

I have a "nick the grinder" version that Harbor Freight used to sell. I think these were around $60 when I bought mine. It has sharpened many chains and still keeps going. Now, keep in mind that my standards of "many" chains is far less then many of the folks here. I am talking about 15 to 20 chains per year for the 4 years that I have owned the machine. For this type of volume or less, I would stand by my sharpener as a viable piece of equipment. At a higher volume, I would think that you may want to step up to a higher grade sharpener.


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## blis (Nov 10, 2006)

id say you should rather learn to file by hand than getting a cheap grinder...


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## clearance (Nov 10, 2006)

blis said:


> id say you should rather learn to file by hand than getting a cheap grinder...


Me 2, works, learn how.


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## logbutcher (Nov 10, 2006)

*Hand, Hand Sharpen*



clearance said:


> Me 2, works, learn how.



Ditto, Ditto. No grinder works out in the woodlot anyhow. Use a stump vise.
Try the Pferd (SharpForce for Husky) rig that does the chain and raker at the same stroke. Neat.


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## ktm rider (Nov 10, 2006)

logbutcher said:


> Ditto, Ditto. No grinder works out in the woodlot anyhow. Use a stump vise.
> Try the Pferd (SharpForce for Husky) rig that does the chain and raker at the same stroke. Neat.




Sure there is. Stihl makes a VERY handy chain sharpener. I have been using it for 4 years now and i can sharpen a chain in about 3 minutes pretty much as good as when the chain was new. It hooks to any 12v battery. I use my Yamaha Rhino to haul the wood anyway so I always have the sharpener in the glove box. I think I paid 430 for it and it was the single best wood cutting investment I have made to date.
This is not a "Cheap grinder" I have used the hell out of it and it just keeps going. If you have ever used a hand file you know why this is so handy. and 10 times quicker than a hand file. 
No need to pull the chain and put on a sharp one in the field when you can sharpen the one on the saw just as fast...


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## logbutcher (Nov 10, 2006)

*You're On !*



ktm rider said:


> Sure there is. Stihl makes a VERY handy chain sharpener. I have been using it for 4 years now and i can sharpen a chain in about 3 minutes pretty much as good as when the chain was new. It hooks to any 12v battery. I use my Yamaha Rhino to haul the wood anyway so I always have the sharpener in the glove box. I think I paid 430 for it and it was the single best wood cutting investment I have made to date.
> This is not a "Cheap grinder" I have used the hell out of it and it just keeps going. If you have ever used a hand file you know why this is so handy. and 10 times quicker than a hand file.
> No need to pull the chain and put on a sharp one in the field when you can sharpen the one on the saw just as fast...


OK, you're on. The only time the chain needs heavy sharpening or a grinder is when it's nicked. Then I've got to file back to good steel. Mostly, stick the saw in the stump vise ( ~ $10-), do the usual 2-3 strokes/tooth/ 2-3 tankfuls, and done :rockn: . Don't know about that "3 minute" thing.
For $430- I can buy a mucho round and flat files. And, can that Super Stihl "not-a-cheap grinder" do rakers? What is the set up time for both teeth and rakers ? 
Open battery box.
Set up saw on secure stand.
Attach cables to battery.
"Grind"  teeth, Stihl have to hand rotate chain.
Do rakers. Attach special flat "raker grinder".
Grind rakers.
Unattach cables.
Close battery door.
Put not-so-cheap Stihl grinder away.
I'm already tired out just thinking about this automatic grinder  

So here's the challenge for a case of our favorite case  : We drink only local micro brewed dark ale hereabouts. Big bucks!
Let's time it apples to apples.  
We're in Downeast Maine -- Paradise. Come on down.


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## ktm rider (Nov 10, 2006)

I'm not sure you understand what kind of sharpener this is. It IS NOT a bench grinder, it is hand held, so, obviously , it doesn't need any kind of stand for the saw, just set it down and go at it. You can also buy them with a cigarette lighter plug. so, no need to find a battery. And you only rotate the chain as much as you would with a hand file. Also, it will not only do "heavy sharpening" but it will also just add an edge to the teeth with one quick application . It will do the rakers with the attachment that takes about .001 second to attach.

I paid $30 for it... I didn't hit the shift button hard enough to put the $ on there so it read 430, my fault... 

I implied it was not a " cheap grinder" , sorry, "SHARPENER" meaning that there are alot of copies of it out there made by God knows who. And as everyone knows Stihl is anything but cheap... 
Good Lord, If you don't want one then don't buy one.. The original poster asked for opinions about electric sharpeners and I gave him my opinion on the one I have... 
.


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## STIHLSamantha (Nov 10, 2006)

i know it isn't really the smartest way to go...but we've used a dremmel before with the file attachment for some quick filing....however, it wears the chain out fast doing it that way....we stick with hand filing....takes longer, but the chain also lasts longer (unless you are prone to hitting stones like me on occassion...those do a number on your chain and sometimes no sharpener can save it)


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## Corley5 (Nov 10, 2006)

I've got MAXX grinder and love it. Do a search for them on E-bay. I was a file purist until I bought this for processor chains. I haven't filed a chain or rakers since


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## Big Woody (Nov 11, 2006)

You will find most of the hand filing "freaks" don't own a good chain grinder. 

I do both but since I have a table saw I really dont use the hand saw that much. Go Figure. :rockn:


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## turnkey4099 (Nov 11, 2006)

I bought the HF el cheapo this summer. If nothing else it will save me $8 per chain (paid to the local shop for a sharping job) to get the teeth back to the same length after several hand filings. I also don't have the delivery/pickup/wait for the shop to do it. I am still not satisfied with the job the grinder does but my technique is improving.

Harry K


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## ciscoguy01 (Nov 11, 2006)

*Hand filing to grinding*

You get almost double the life of a chain from hand filing to grinding it. FYI, I know people who've tried it in the past...


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## alderman (Nov 11, 2006)

*Chainsaw sharpener*

I've got quite a few sharpening devices. I've been cutting firewood for my own use for many years. There was a hot saw builder just down the road from me so up until he passed away I'd just hop in the rig, BS with him and he'd put a razor sharp edge on my chains for little or no money. Once he was gone it was either learn how to do it myself or big money and a long trip to town. I've gotten to where I can do a decent job with the clamp on sharpener and a file. I've tried several different makers and recently bought the Granburg from Bailey's which seems to be the best built of those I've tried. I've got a rotory sharpener that works kind of like a Dremel tool but I haven't had much luck with it, although in all fairness I haven't played with it much. Got the Harbor Freight grinder for $29 and for the money I'm impressed. It does a good job of getting chains back in shape. Just last week I got an Oregon 511A off craigslist for $100. It has a better set up for getting the right angle adjustments, is more heavy duty, has a light, and also has an additional angle adjustment that allows 10 degree tilt for the chain holder. I also got a couple of file-o-plates free from Bailey's with a chain order. I haven't tried them yet. With all this, I will probably continue to hand file with a clamp on guide in most cases, using the grinders for damaged chains and depth guages.


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## turnkey4099 (Nov 11, 2006)

ciscoguy01 said:


> You get almost double the life of a chain from hand filing to grinding it. FYI, I know people who've tried it in the past...



A properly run grinder will not take off any more than hand filing. The problem, if you are paying to have it done, is finding a shop that runs the grinder "properly".

Harry K


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## roahboah (Nov 13, 2006)

*So what's a good choice for manual bar-mount guide?*

Hi folks - first-time poster. Thanks in advance for your info and assistance.

If I wanted to stick with a manual bar-mount guide (so I can do my own on-the-fly sharpening), what would folks recommend? I'm doing my own hand-filing now and I'm getting better, but I have a feeling that a bar-mount guide would help me do a nicer job.
I've got a Stihl 290.
thanks,
roah


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## computeruser (Nov 13, 2006)

roahboah said:


> Hi folks - first-time poster. Thanks in advance for your info and assistance.
> 
> If I wanted to stick with a manual bar-mount guide (so I can do my own on-the-fly sharpening), what would folks recommend? I'm doing my own hand-filing now and I'm getting better, but I have a feeling that a bar-mount guide would help me do a nicer job.
> I've got a Stihl 290.
> ...



Stihl sells a nice one, and you can get it from your dealer. Otherwise, Bailey's sells a nice one if you're in the mood for some mail-order/online shopping.

Welcome to arboristsite!


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## roahboah (Nov 13, 2006)

Thank you, sir! Appreciate the info!
regards,
roah


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## hornett22 (Nov 13, 2006)

*i have the stihl hos grinder.*

works great and it's quiet.i run it in the garage in the middle of the night with the door closed and no one hears it.it was $499 at the stihl dealer and it does rakers as well .i just do them by hand though.not sure which one is $1200.there is another model.i don't have time to sharpen 10-20 chains at a time with a file.
filing by hand is fine as long as you get the teeth all the same size.i hate when nmy chain drifts in a cut.


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## logbutcher (Nov 14, 2006)

*Hand vs. Grinder*

"What we've got here is a problem of communication":deadhorse: 

If I had to do 20 chains ,the power grinder is the right tool. Out in the wild woods, hand filing when needed is fast, gives the user the ease of efficiency, and skill every 2-3 tanks. With the NSCSG (Not-So-Cheap-Stihl-Grinder ):hmm3grin2orange: , you Stihl have to set it up, "plug" it in, set the tool for the correct angles.......then put it away.
IN THE FIELD, with a Pferd (SharpForce) super-duper hand filer, you just follow the witness line on the chain top, file away with that skilled hand and eye, and you're done  . And, TA-TAAA, the edge and depth gauge/raker are done thye right way. And, you Stihl have to move the NSCSG around the chain......don't you ????
Now what is it for the NSCSG, $30. or $499. ? In these parts, we could feast on fried clams or lobster for a loooooong time. :biggrinbounce2: You buy.
P.S. The Pferd (SharpForce) is +/- $15. at Bailey's.


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## 046 (Nov 14, 2006)

got a Oregon grinder that almost never gets used. 
hand filing is the only way to go. unless you're grinding yourself, count on getting your chain back with 1/3 less teeth and loss temper to boot. at least that's been my experience sending chains out. your mileage my veri..

hand filing has a steep learning curve, but once you figure out. you can get your chain sharp in the field in a few minutes. 

stihl makes an excellent clamp-on manual sharpener that works great!
I'll use that to set my teeth angles back, instead of the Oregon grinder. 

never had any luck using hand held 12V grinders. pretty worthless...


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## roahboah (Nov 14, 2006)

Thank you for the info! I think I AM gonna go with that Stihl bar-mount sharpener.
Thank you again, sirs!
regards,
roah


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## logbutcher (Nov 14, 2006)

*"yes, Sir" !*



roahboah said:


> Thank you for the info! I think I AM gonna go with that Stihl bar-mount sharpener.
> Thank you again, sirs!
> regards,
> roah


*Why I haven't been called "sir" since 1969. Thanks, it does feel good. Please salute .....now. * 

The clamp-on hand sharpeners work, but they are a PITA. C'mon, look for the Pferd/Sharpforce filers. The good S & H dealers carry them. Don't you Andy ?
Get a stump vise, or saw a groove into a stump to hold the saw steady when filing by hand. 
It doesn't take long to figure out the witness lines on top of the chain, or to get the angles right, to get hand filing down pat. Then it's fast, easy. and correct. Maybe 10-15 bad filing jobs.:hmm3grin2orange: 
Save the grinding for when you hit rocks (never):angry2: , dirt (rarely, yuh sure), your steel toe ( once or twice), or just dirty bark and cambium that sucks up that sand into dead oaks . And when you're back in that warm, wood-heated shop.


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## roahboah (Nov 14, 2006)

logbutcher said:


> *Why I haven't been called "sir" since 1969. Thanks, it does feel good. Please salute .....now. *
> 
> The clamp-on hand sharpeners work, but they are a PITA. C'mon, look for the Pferd/Sharpforce filers. The good S & H dealers carry them. Don't you Andy ?
> Get a stump vise, or saw a groove into a stump to hold the saw steady when filing by hand.
> ...



Yassir, right away sir....(saluting over and over and over)
Well, I'm hand-filing now, and doing _okay_ - but that's the extent of it. I feel a tad frustrated because I seem to do a better job on one side of the cutters than the other (left-handed, maybe). You're right - I'm not going to get a grinder or anything like that, but I AM interested in doing a better, more consistent job when sharpening on my own, you know? The bar-mount jobs looked good to me because I could set the angles and do a good job consistently. Plus, it seems like I could use the bar-mount guide to do the rakers (with the appropriate flat file, o'course). So what's the deal - am I way off in my assumptions? Wouldn't be the first time!
thanks in advance for your input,
roah


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## 046 (Nov 14, 2006)

took me 2+ years to figure how to hand sharpen.... wish it was only 10-15 bad filing jobs  

what turned on the light bulb, for me was to clamp entire saw down on a solid vise, tighten chain up to reduce wobble and use a pair of jeweler magnifiers. that way your chain is not moving around and you can SEE to maintain those angles. 

pretty much exactly what the stihl clamp-on unit does, only without the hassle of set-up time. really like stihl clamp-on because you can repeat exact angle everytime without overheating tooth. but it's a pita to use. 

note the file holder on right of pic... that's an old homelite file holder. works better than any other I've tried. but personal preferences rules. some don't like any holders at all. use only quality files the correct size, like stihl files. 

you'll be hand filing like a pro... in no time!



logbutcher said:


> *It doesn't take long to figure out the witness lines on top of the chain, or to get the angles right, to get hand filing down pat. Then it's fast, easy. and correct. Maybe 10-15 bad filing jobs.:hmm3grin2orange: *


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## buckwheat (Nov 14, 2006)

I used to handfile everything and did a passible job. But in the interest of speed I now use a Dremel with the Oregon stones. I still carry hand files out in the field in case I need to do a "90 second tickle"; but learning how to hand file also teaches you the proper way to use a grinder.


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## ktm rider (Nov 14, 2006)

logbutcher said:


> "What we've got here is a problem of communication":deadhorse:
> 
> If I had to do 20 chains ,the power grinder is the right tool. Out in the wild woods, hand filing when needed is fast, gives the user the ease of efficiency, and skill every 2-3 tanks. With the NSCSG (Not-So-Cheap-Stihl-Grinder ):hmm3grin2orange: , you Stihl have to set it up, "plug" it in, set the tool for the correct angles.......then put it away.
> IN THE FIELD, with a Pferd (SharpForce) super-duper hand filer, you just follow the witness line on the chain top, file away with that skilled hand and eye, and you're done  . And, TA-TAAA, the edge and depth gauge/raker are done thye right way. And, you Stihl have to move the NSCSG around the chain......don't you ????
> ...



O.K. The price for the Stihl hand held chain sharpener is *$30* I explained my type "O" in my last post.

There is nothing to attach to the saw. no clamps, nothing... You just follow the witness marks just like you do with you hand file. There is NO SETTING THE CORRECT ANGLE !!!:bang: 

Yes you are correct that you actually have to get it out AND put it away. I do have to plug it into the cigarette lighter in my Rhino ( that is usually sitting right beside me) That is not an all day job really. 

technology is a wonderful thing.............


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## ktm rider (Nov 14, 2006)

It seems as if the original poster should have named this thread " Talk me out of an electric chain sharpener " 

He was asking for opinions on electric sharpeners, NOT why he shouldn't get one.


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## Corley5 (Nov 14, 2006)

For a simple, effective and cheap guide to handfile chains get a Carlton File-O-Plate. Bailey's has them and they work. I've used them for years and still carry one in my wallet just in case. CBN wheels for grinders seem to do a better job than the grit wheels and don't need to be dressed


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## Big Woody (Nov 15, 2006)

I have used the red oregon brand 12 Volt one for years. Just open the truck hood, hook it up and away you go. Works great and faster than hand filing. they are about $30 or so. Also has a spare battery in the shop so used it there as well. Just put saw in the vice and sharpen away. 


Since I got the 110V Tecomec, reversible motor, bench grinder that is all I use anymore. 

Ever wonder why they don't hand file chains when you take them in to the local shop?


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## logbutcher (Nov 15, 2006)

*$30.00 it Is*



ktm rider said:


> O.K. The price for the Stihl hand held chain sharpener is *$30* I explained my type "O" in my last post.
> 
> There is nothing to attach to the saw. no clamps, nothing... You just follow the witness marks just like you do with you hand file. There is NO SETTING THE CORRECT ANGLE !!!:bang:
> 
> ...



You are correct..... excuze moi !
Some of us howver are near LUDDITES. Some technology is good, some is NRFPTD (Not ready for prime time dear). I *LIKE* to hand file out in the field. For example: I do not like to go to a store to hear innane pap--always loud on cell phones . How do so many have so little to say....can you say "DUMBING DOWN" ? 
And the greatest tool for sharpening since sliced bananas is the Pferd. Can you believe, no digital camera here for a jpeg of the tool in action. Luddite !Look it up in Bailey's. You'll never use anything else
There, I'm outed  . "Don't ask don't tell", William Jefferson Clintonopcorn:


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## Hoosierheater (Nov 17, 2006)

*Sharpeners*

I have struggled for years with the typical bar clamp on type sharpeners. No matter what I tried, it would end up with the bar pulling in one direction or the other and ultimately wedging in the cut. I finally bought a Dremel tool and saw sharpening attachment and my life is so much easier. It took me a while to get used to it and I did grind off too much steel but now it works like a dream. I would highly recommend this unit to anyone.


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## aokpops (Nov 18, 2006)

*fileoplate*

I used just about everything . nothing has beat a fileoplate and a file . can,t figure out how to sharpen a file . need some info on great files .


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## 046 (Nov 19, 2006)

welcome to AS...

just goes to show ya how everyone is a little different. bottom line is what ever works! is what you should use. 

I've used my dremel sharpener and think it's junk. on the other hand, my stihl clamp on works great for me. (note I'll tighten up chain to reduce slop before sharpening)

still prefer plain ole hand sharpening the best!



Hoosierheater said:


> I have struggled for years with the typical bar clamp on type sharpeners. No matter what I tried, it would end up with the bar pulling in one direction or the other and ultimately wedging in the cut. I finally bought a Dremel tool and saw sharpening attachment and my life is so much easier. It took me a while to get used to it and I did grind off too much steel but now it works like a dream. I would highly recommend this unit to anyone.


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## ASEMASTER (Nov 19, 2006)

*sharpener*



Hoosierheater said:


> I have struggled for years with the typical bar clamp on type sharpeners. No matter what I tried, it would end up with the bar pulling in one direction or the other and ultimately wedging in the cut. I finally bought a Dremel tool and saw sharpening attachment and my life is so much easier. It took me a while to get used to it and I did grind off too much steel but now it works like a dream. I would highly recommend this unit to anyone.


 I also use a dremel with a dimond tool in it,no guide as I can file and still do in the field. but the dremel saves on the finger nicks when you forget the gloves and slip off the tooth .


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## Philbert (Nov 25, 2006)

*It Depends . . .*

What really matters is that you find a method that works for YOU.

I do disaster response, where the trees are filled with dirt, and metal, and all kinds of stuff. On a bad day, we can go through a dozen chains in a half hour, and run up to 17 saws, so we keep an Oregon 511 clone in our equipment trailer and run it off of a generator.

Some people own just one chain that never leaves their saw, and cut firewood with it for years.

I recommend that operators carry 3 chains per saw, so that they can swap out for a sharp chain and get back to work if they hit a rock or just get dull. They can concentrate on sharpening back in the shop, instead of in the woods, and there is less temptation to cut 'just one more log' with a dull chain.

For field 'touch-ups', a file with a guide works fine.

For regular sharpening, a good electric grinder has many advantages over a using only a file:
- it is much faster if you have many chains to sharpen;
- it is better for grinding back a chipped or damaged chain;
- it is consistent: all the teeth are ground at the same angles, which means that the chain runs and cuts smoother;
- (ibid): all of the teeth are ground to the same length;
- the wheel constantly exposes sharp grit as it wears - that is, you never find yourself sharpening with a dull file that someone should have replaced;
- the fine grit leaves a very smooth finish and sharp edge on the cutter;
- there is no chance of 'rounding over' the cutting edge at the last instant by moving the file imperceptably.

It is possible to grind the life out of a chain by hogging off lots of metal, or by jamming the wheel into the cutters until they turn blue, however, it is also possible to just 'kiss' the dull edges with a feather touch and hone them to a razor's edge that is a pleasure to use.

The 'on-the-bar' guides or grinders can be OK if you are a 'one-chain' kind of guy (male or female), but you have to stop work each time. Also, don't forget to flip your bar over each time you sharpen, regardless if the same chain remains on the saw, or your bar will wear unevenly.

The Dremel tool, and it's 12-volt cousins can also work for you, if you feel comfortable with them. I get a little concerned that the diameter of the stones change as they wear, which affects the size and shape of the gullet on the cutting tooth.

If you do file by hand, or use one of the Dremel-type tools, I recommend that you have it ground on an electric wheel-type grinder every 3rd or 4th sharpening to get all of the teeth back to the same size and angles.


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## ktm rider (Nov 26, 2006)

logbutcher said:


> You are correct..... excuze moi !
> Some of us howver are near LUDDITES. Some technology is good, some is NRFPTD (Not ready for prime time dear). I *LIKE* to hand file out in the field. For example: I do not like to go to a store to hear innane pap--always loud on cell phones . How do so many have so little to say....can you say "DUMBING DOWN" ?
> And the greatest tool for sharpening since sliced bananas is the Pferd. Can you believe, no digital camera here for a jpeg of the tool in action. Luddite !Look it up in Bailey's. You'll never use anything else
> There, I'm outed  . "Don't ask don't tell", William Jefferson Clintonopcorn:



O.K. I give up. WHat in the world is a "LUDDITE"??


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## Philbert (Nov 26, 2006)

*2-Cycle Luddite?*

Er,

So what is a Luddite doing with a highly engineered, gasoline consuming, internal combustion, magnesium housed, areospace plastic and alloy, safety featured chainsaw? Why not a stone axe, or at least a cross cut saw?


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## hornett22 (Nov 26, 2006)

*don't get me wrong,i still file in the field.*

the trick with hand filling is keeping a good sharp file.they do wear out.a box of them is cheap though.i also recommend a file cleaning brush.snaop on used to sell them but my dealer couldn't find one.i found one in a local hardware store.was probably sitting there for years.the guy that worked there asked me what it was.

i tried that electric thing a ma jig.seemed cheesy to me.and alot more work than filling. maybe the stihl ones come with better stones than the oregon ones.


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## Philbert (Nov 27, 2006)

*File Card*

The brush that hornet22 mentioned for cleaning files is called a 'file card'; it has short, stiff bristles on one side and short, stiff wires on the other. They are available at good hardware stores and many home centers with the files. Nicholson is one brand. They clean out between the teeth of the files, so that they cut better, but do not sharpen the files.

You are right that a sharp file is important. When people cuss out files or hacksaws, they often are trying to use one that is dull or worn out, or trying to cut on the pull stroke.


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## logbutcher (Nov 29, 2006)

*Luddite !*



Philbert said:


> Er,
> 
> So what is a Luddite doing with a highly engineered, gasoline consuming, internal combustion, magnesium housed, areospace plastic and alloy, safety featured chainsaw? Why not a stone axe, or at least a cross cut saw?


I'm outed again  
Hey, it's a little bit of big word stuff. :spam: 
Then again, being a luddite without a cell phone :monkey: , no digital camera :deadhorse: ; BUT, how do you know that its "magnesium housed" ?
Being of the modern strain of luddism, as kind of like being almost pregnant  .
Where do you get the G2 need to know about the H.E. , aerospace, magnesium stuff knowledge ? :greenchainsaw: 
Oh, "luddite" is or was one who destroys modern tools or rejects them. It's America  , I pick and choose. PPE forever !


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## Nanuq (Jun 17, 2010)

I stumbled across this long-dead thread, and I'm gonna whinge it back to life!

I personally *like* the way a sharp handsaw feels working in wood. My grandfather worked with Stickley building furniture and believe me, he taught a nice sharpening technique. 

Same with hand filing a saw or a chain to get it right. A sharp file working a steel tooth just feels right.

Luddites unite!


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## Oldbuck (Oct 23, 2010)

*Words of wisdom*

The most common sense response I have heard about the subject






Philbert said:


> What really matters is that you find a method that works for YOU.
> 
> I do disaster response, where the trees are filled with dirt, and metal, and all kinds of stuff. On a bad day, we can go through a dozen chains in a half hour, and run up to 17 saws, so we keep an Oregon 511 clone in our equipment trailer and run it off of a generator.
> 
> ...


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## BlueRidgeMark (Oct 23, 2010)

logbutcher said:


> ... the greatest tool for sharpening since sliced bananas is the Pferd.




:agree2:


Works for me! 


If I ever hit the lottery, I'll buy a Silvey. Til then, I'll make do with the Pferd and clean up when needed with my (yech) Harbor Fright grinder. That's a very slow process because of the imprecision of the HF grinder, but it does manage to keep the angles right.


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