# 5W20



## DR. P. Proteus (Jul 1, 2015)

That is kinda thin ain't it?

I have pretty much gone with manufacturer's recommendation but its not like I don't know what HI-Tach is used for.
Well that 5W20 is recommended for my Dodge 2500 5.7 Hemi so I have been using that but thinking about I, well...
I dunno, getting a pretty loud tap after a few good miles on a oil change and I am thinking that " They" want us to use the thinner oil for better gas mileage over better lubrication.
Does that make sense?
I also think that Hemi is really a Jap motor anyway but I don't really know.
So anyway: 5W20 is thinner than 10W30 I would hazard to suppose if I had to right? Hell, I been putting 10W30 in my motors since forever so what's with this 5W20? Even 10w40 seems to be fine in all the old **** I had ran.


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## mesupra (Jul 1, 2015)

Why not run the best, Rottella Full Synthetic (blue bottle) its a 5W40 oil, its typically $21.99 a gallon at wal-mart and regularly goes on sale for 17.99 at TSC. Its great oil, I literally run it in everything I own from my trucks to my mower and everything in between. A friend of mine has sent multiple samples for testing and most recently they have recommended him change it every 13k in his powerstroke. I run it around 8-10k and it still looks and performs great.


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## 1Alpha1 (Jul 9, 2015)

I think 5W-20 has nothing to do with protection, but more to do with EPA / fuel economy.

I run Mobil 1, 15/50 in my BMW m/c. It's air and oil cooled. No way I'd run that thin of an oil in it.

My_ cages_ (car and truck) aren't expensive or valuable enough to run full-synth. oil in them.


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## ray benson (Jul 10, 2015)

0w-20 in our Honda Accord


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## ChoppyChoppy (Jul 10, 2015)

mesupra said:


> Why not run the best, Rottella Full Synthetic (blue bottle) its a 5W40 oil, its typically $21.99 a gallon at wal-mart and regularly goes on sale for 17.99 at TSC. Its great oil, I literally run it in everything I own from my trucks to my mower and everything in between. A friend of mine has sent multiple samples for testing and most recently they have recommended him change it every 13k in his powerstroke. I run it around 8-10k and it still looks and performs great.



It's what I run too.


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## lone wolf (Jul 10, 2015)

ValleyFirewood said:


> It's what I run too.


In the winter too?


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## mesupra (Jul 10, 2015)

Its funny just after I got done typing that a neighbor called and asked if I had any use for Valvoline 5w-30, around 40 gallons of it. We now have a 55 gallon drum and hand pump sitting in the shop. Looks like Ill switch a couple engines over for a little while.


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## Halligan (Jul 22, 2015)

Not sure what year your truck is but my 2010 Ram 2500 5w20 was the factory fill but it stated in the owners manual that when hauling or towing heavy to use 5W30 oil. Try running 5w30. FWIW, my new Power Wagon has a 6.4 Hemi and the oil is 0w40.


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## mesupra (Jul 23, 2015)

It seems that one of the reasons newer vehicles have switched to 0w20 - 0w40 to help meet emission standards. I came across a bulletin from Toyota that mentioned emissions as a reason for the switch. I changed my Tundra over to Rotella T6 at 5k.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Jul 27, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> In the winter too?



Yeah, thats alot of the reason that I run it. Other option would be 15w40 regular oil.


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## Deleted member 83629 (Aug 25, 2015)

i run 10w30 winter or summer.


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## blades (Jul 29, 2016)

Some of the reasons for the thin viscosity has to do with overhead cam systems and the variable cam timing. As well as the hydraulic tension systems on the timing chains or belts. Cam phasers are hydraulically driven.


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## Marshy (Jul 29, 2016)

blades said:


> Some of the reasons for the thin viscosity has to do with overhead cam systems and the variable cam timing. As well as the hydraulic tension systems on the timing chains or belts. Cam phasers are hydraulically driven.


Yes.

Fact is, it's not as simple as it use to be. I'd stick with what the manufacture recommends. Usually they will give you a small range to use for seasonal changes. I'd stick within that range.


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## lone wolf (Jul 29, 2016)

Marshy said:


> Yes.
> 
> Fact is, it's not as simple as it use to be. I'd stick with what the manufacture recommends. Usually they will give you a small range to use for seasonal changes. I'd stick within that range.


I used to run 70 grade in my 74 Power Wagon in the summer. Imagine what would happen if you tried that nowadays?


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## ChoppyChoppy (Jul 29, 2016)

mesupra said:


> Why not run the best, Rottella Full Synthetic (blue bottle) its a 5W40 oil, its typically $21.99 a gallon at wal-mart and regularly goes on sale for 17.99 at TSC. Its great oil, I literally run it in everything I own from my trucks to my mower and everything in between. A friend of mine has sent multiple samples for testing and most recently they have recommended him change it every 13k in his powerstroke. I run it around 8-10k and it still looks and performs great.



$23/gal here. I use it in all my stuff. Does hurt the wallet when doing an.oil. hang in my truck, it holds 10 or 11 gallons.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Jul 29, 2016)

mesupra said:


> Its funny just after I got done typing that a neighbor called and asked if I had any use for Valvoline 5w-30, around 40 gallons of it. We now have a 55 gallon drum and hand pump sitting in the shop. Looks like Ill switch a couple engines over for a little while.



I found a Vietnam Era drum of 30wt at the shop. It's more like 90wt now, guess it thickened with age? 
Anyhow, have been putting 10 gals or so in my 300 gal diesel tank when I get it filled.


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## fubar2 (Aug 5, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> I found a Vietnam Era drum of 30wt at the shop. It's more like 90wt now, guess it thickened with age?
> Anyhow, have been putting 10 gals or so in my 300 gal diesel tank when I get it filled.


That's gotta be either Agent Orange or Ho Chi Minhs mojo.


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## PasoRoblesJimmy (Aug 24, 2016)

Read your owner's manual and use what your vehicle's manufacturer recommends. 

FYI, NAPA Auto Parts has NAPA-brand Full Synthetic Motor Oil on sale thru the end of August 2016 for $2.99 per quart.

NAPA-brand motor oil is made at the exact same refinery where Valvoline is made.


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## blades (Aug 24, 2016)

Oil is oil till they start adding and subtracting stuff.


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## earlthegoat2 (Sep 24, 2016)

I use NAPA full synthetic 5w30 in everything I own. 2 Ford Focuses (foci) and a V10 F250. The Foci call for 5w20 but who cares. The 5 is the important number anyway since most engine wear happens at startup and that is why you want a thinner consistency when the engine is cold. 

Gas and diesels require different API specs. Most gas oil spec is SN and diesel is CJ-4. This is the reason I would not use Rotella 5w40 (diesel oil) in a Ram hemi. Might not matter in the end since it still is a 5w but gasses and diesels require different lubrication needs.

And the NAPA stuff is made by the same company which makes Valvoline, Ashland Oil. Ashland oil makes lubrication products that are rebranded by and relabeled hundrereds of times over. Is it the same stuff all the time? Maybe, maybe not. Either way, time has proven both the Napa and Valvoline products are pretty solid.


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## ironman_gq (Oct 25, 2016)

mesupra said:


> It seems that one of the reasons newer vehicles have switched to 0w20 - 0w40 to help meet emission standards. I came across a bulletin from Toyota that mentioned emissions as a reason for the switch. I changed my Tundra over to Rotella T6 at 5k.



0w-40 won't do anything for emissions, it'll help with cold starting but it's still a 40wt oil. They did change the additive package around to help with emissions but a 40wt is still a 40wt.


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