# snatch block and come along



## Skywalker (May 13, 2007)

In need of snatch block and come along

who makes the best

where do i get it

thanks alot


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## clearance (May 13, 2007)

How much of a pull do you have, if you are using the block to double power you need twice as much cable. Come-a-longs are short on cable. I much prefer my Tirfor. Snatch blocks, the bigger sheave the better, too small is hard on the rope or cable.


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## Bermie (May 13, 2007)

Ditto Clearance
- Tirfor cable puller, come along is too fiddly, finger crunching, short on cable. 
Snatch block, make sure you get a big enough one to rate a double pull, you will want the capability to use what a Tirfor can do for you!


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## clearance (May 13, 2007)

And I forgot the most important thing of all, stay out of the bight!


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## beowulf343 (May 13, 2007)

clearance said:


> And I forgot the most important thing of all, stay out of the bight!



Ah clearance? This is 101. How many of these newbs do you think actually know what you are talking about?:biggrinbounce2:


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## newguy18 (May 13, 2007)

*i dont use blocks*



Skywalker said:


> In need of snatch block and come along
> 
> who makes the best
> 
> ...



i cant help you i take and set wraps.i have considered false crotch set ups but i like natural crotch rigging.:fart:


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## Skywalker (May 13, 2007)

we have a 3/4 bull rope

where do i get the snatch block and is there any particular brands or styles to look for

thanks

the tirfor is out of budget right now

thank you for the advice


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## clearance (May 13, 2007)

Skywalker said:


> we have a 3/4 bull rope
> 
> where do i get the snatch block and is there any particular brands or styles to look for
> 
> ...



Should be a 6" block min. for 3/4' rope. Call up an industrial supply place that sells chain and wire rope, they will have it or will help you. As long as it is rated for way beyond what you are doing, it should be ok. The bight is the area where the broken rope or block will fly to, or any point in between stressed lines.


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## turnkey4099 (May 14, 2007)

clearance said:


> Should be a 6" block min. for 3/4' rope. Call up an industrial supply place that sells chain and wire rope, they will have it or will help you. As long as it is rated for way beyond what you are doing, it should be ok. The bight is the area where the broken rope or block will fly to, or any point in between stressed lines.



Hmmm, I just learned something. I never knew that was the definition. I thought it was just a loop in the free end or just the free end itself. 

I have 4 homemade snatch blocks - 6" sheaves. Used two of the them today to rig a double pull. Had my brother helping and I managed to step into a loop of the cable we were passing around a huge tree for an anchor. Felt mighty stupid as I was the one handling that cable. Glad he was just pulling slack when I felt it tighten around my ankles.

Harery K


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## ddhlakebound (May 14, 2007)

newguy18 said:


> i cant help you i take and set wraps.i have considered false crotch set ups but i like natural crotch rigging.:fart:



Natural crotch rigging is hard on your rope, and hard on the tree, especially thin barked ones. 

What if there is no crotch where you need to lower from? Ever used a come-a-long for lowering? I didn't think so. 

What do you do if you need a controlled pull on something? Tie it to the truck and hit the gas?


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## Bermie (May 14, 2007)

clearance said:


> And I forgot the most important thing of all, stay out of the bight!



Otherwise known as the 'triangle of death'...


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## geofore (May 14, 2007)

*snatch blocks?*

Have you even looked at CMI's web site?


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## jmack (May 30, 2007)

wesspur .com


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