# best practices for battery maintenance on lawn mower?



## Tyler Davis (Apr 11, 2017)

I inherited a crappy Murray 27 HP lawn mower when I moved into this house 2 years ago. It has been very finicky in starting, especially in cold weather. It sits a lot. I mow once every 2-4 weeks in the summer, then it sits in the unheated shed all winter. So my goal this season is to get it tuned up and take care of the electrical charging system once and for all. 

I have taken the battery into Autozone and they tested it and told me it's fine, but I will start by buying a new "known good" battery and troubleshoot from there. How many Cold Cranking Amps should I look for?

I have a cheap-o trickle charger, but I see lots of other options out there. Battery maintainers, battery tenders, etc. What is a good brand and model to buy? Should I leave the battery in the mower all summer, disconnect the cables? Take the battery out and leave it on the changer all year round? Only bring the battery indoors in the winter and leave it on the charger, or charge once a month?


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## ironman_gq (Apr 11, 2017)

Battery tender is good. Walmart has the junior model for around $30 which would be perfect for your use. Leave it connected anytime the machine is going to sit unused for more than a few days.


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## grizz55chev (Apr 11, 2017)

Tyler Davis said:


> I inherited a crappy Murray 27 HP lawn mower when I moved into this house 2 years ago. It has been very finicky in starting, especially in cold weather. It sits a lot. I mow once every 2-4 weeks in the summer, then it sits in the unheated shed all winter. So my goal this season is to get it tuned up and take care of the electrical charging system once and for all.
> 
> I have taken the battery into Autozone and they tested it and told me it's fine, but I will start by buying a new "known good" battery and troubleshoot from there. How many Cold Cranking Amps should I look for?
> 
> I have a cheap-o trickle charger, but I see lots of other options out there. Battery maintainers, battery tenders, etc. What is a good brand and model to buy? Should I leave the battery in the mower all summer, disconnect the cables? Take the battery out and leave it on the changer all year round? Only bring the battery indoors in the winter and leave it on the charger, or charge once a month?


The charging system on these mowers are relatively simple and trouble free. I would add that the starter itself maybe the problem, maybe its drawing too many amps?


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## ANewSawyer (Apr 12, 2017)

Hmmm, on either side of the steering wheel housing, there should be a sticker with the model number. If it has a Briggs and Stratton engine, the model number for it is stamped, usually on the valve cover.

So best practices? Change your oil before the first mow and again about half way through the season. If the gas is left over from the previous winter, in can or in the gas tank, change it. It absorbs moisture from the air. Install a fuel line shut off going to the carb and use it after you mow, every time shut the valve off and wait for the engine to run out of gas. But remember to turn the key off after the engine stops! Most home improvement or hardware stores should carry the fuel valve. When you are installing the valve, change the fuel filter if you can't tell me how old it is. Remove, sharpen and balance the blades at least once a year. More often if you have lots of sticks or stones. Check for grease ports on the deck spindles, front tires axles and front steering assembly. Grease each spring. Now, if you Murray is like mine, the spindles actually have shielded bearings on the inside and greasing might not do much good. But the only way to know is to drive the spindle and bearings out. I changed my spindle bearing and removed the inner shield. YMMV.


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## Tyler Davis (Apr 14, 2017)

Thanks for the tips. I want to focus on the electrical system first, then worry about the mechanicals. I do use Sta-bil fuel stabilizer every time I fill my gas can, so that should avoid the "stale fuel" problems.

Engine is a Tecumseh OHV130

Battery is a 12-Volt / 230 CCA model. How many amps should I look for a in a new battery? Some mornings I do need to start it very cold. Any particular brand?

The difference between a "battery tender" and "trickle charger" is that a tender prevents over-charging?  I don't want to buy something that's barely better than what I have.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Apr 14, 2017)

Just count on buying a new $30 battery every few years or put a car battery in it. The little mower batteries are all pretty much junk and don't last long.

Once in a while I'll see one that lasts 6-7 years, seems to be no rhyme or reason though. Buy the same exact battery thinking it's a good br and/model and it's shot in a year


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## ANewSawyer (Apr 14, 2017)

Cold saps the charge. Remove the battery and store in the basement/garage over winter But put the battery on a piece of wood . It will discharge through the concrete if you put the bare battery on the concrete floor. Or so I have heard.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Apr 14, 2017)

ANewSawyer said:


> Cold saps the charge. Remove the battery and store in the basement/garage over winter But put the battery on a piece of wood . It will discharge through the concrete if you put the bare battery on the concrete floor. Or so I have heard.



No, both are not true.


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## GrassGuerilla (Apr 14, 2017)

ANewSawyer said:


> Cold saps the charge. Remove the battery and store in the basement/garage over winter But put the battery on a piece of wood . It will discharge through the concrete if you put the bare battery on the concrete floor. Or so I have heard.


Wives tale. Local battery re-manufacturer assures me that if that were true, 25% of their batteries would be junk. (Bottom row sits on concrete floor). I thought the same as you for years and always set em on a board instead of the floor. Regularly get 4-6 years out of Interstate mower batteries kept on a float charger Dec-Mar. 

Pretty sure the OP has a size or two too small a battery for the engine he's cranking. I run a 300 cca on a 25 hp Kawasaki.


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## 1Alpha1 (Apr 15, 2017)

The "Battery Tender" line of chargers is superb. Most places sell um, but I got one or two off E-Bay.

You can hook up a Battery Tender to your mower and forget about it. You can leave it hooked up indefinitely.


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## Johnnybar (Apr 16, 2017)

This maintainer has worked fine for me for the last few years. Disconnect the mower's headlights and the starter/generator on the mower will do fine for recharging within 20 mins mowing time while the maintainer will keep it topped off in the off season. If you are not getting it to start within a few seconds of cranking, you need to look at the choke, fuel pump, carb, verify hot spark and clean plugs.


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## Tyler Davis (Apr 17, 2017)

GrassGuerilla said:


> Wives tale. Local battery re-manufacturer assures me that if that were true, 25% of their batteries would be junk. (Bottom row sits on concrete floor). I thought the same as you for years and always set em on a board instead of the floor. Regularly get 4-6 years out of Interstate mower batteries kept on a float charger Dec-Mar.
> 
> Pretty sure the OP has a size or two too small a battery for the engine he's cranking. I run a 300 cca on a 25 hp Kawasaki.



I'm open to recommendations. When I search for a 12-Volt mower battery, I get a dizzying array of results. From $30 to $150. Glass-mat sealed lead acid? How many cold cranking amps do I need? How many amp-hours?


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## ironman_gq (Apr 17, 2017)

Group U1 battery 3-350cca should run in the $40-50 range. I've been a big fan of Deka batteries, look at their 11U1L part number, https://www.lowes.com/pd/Deka-12-Volt-410-Amp-Mower-Battery/50183755

Can probably be bought at most autoparts stores as well.


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## Tyler Davis (Apr 17, 2017)

ironman_gq said:


> Group U1 battery 3-350cca should run in the $40-50 range. I've been a big fan of Deka batteries, look at their 11U1L part number, https://www.lowes.com/pd/Deka-12-Volt-410-Amp-Mower-Battery/50183755
> 
> Can probably be bought at most autoparts stores as well.


thank you; I'll pick one up on my next Lowe's trip


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## Johnnybar (Apr 17, 2017)

Tyler Davis said:


> I inherited a crappy Murray 27 HP lawn mower when I moved into this house 2 years ago. It has been very finicky in starting, especially in cold weather. It sits a lot. I mow once every 2-4 weeks in the summer, then it sits in the unheated shed all winter. So my goal this season is to get it tuned up and take care of the electrical charging system once and for all.
> 
> I have taken the battery into Autozone and they tested it and told me it's fine, but I will start by buying a new "known good" battery and troubleshoot from there. How many Cold Cranking Amps should I look for?
> 
> I have a cheap-o trickle charger, but I see lots of other options out there. Battery maintainers, battery tenders, etc. What is a good brand and model to buy? Should I leave the battery in the mower all summer, disconnect the cables? Take the battery out and leave it on the changer all year round? Only bring the battery indoors in the winter and leave it on the charger, or charge once a month?


Where did you get the information that it is 27 hp? An OHV130 is 13 hp I believe. Murray placed stickers on the rear of their mowers. You will likely need a U1-7, U1L-7, U1R-7, U1P-7 class battery. $20-$30 at walmart. They also have the charger/maintainers for $20-$25. Get the right battery...do not guess or get an oversized battery that will not fit the hold down clamps. Batteries do not last long when banged around or shorted. If you can't find the sticker on your mower, call the number in the pic:


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## Tyler Davis (Apr 17, 2017)

Johnnybar said:


> Where did you get the information that it is 27 hp? An OHV130 is 13 hp I believe. Murray placed stickers on the rear of their mowers. You will likely need a U1-7, U1L-7, U1R-7, U1P-7 class battery. $20-$30 at walmart. They also have the charger/maintainers for $20-$25. Get the right battery...do not guess or get an oversized battery that will not fit the hold down clamps. Batteries do not last long when banged around or shorted. If you can't find the sticker on your mower, call the number in the pic:



I think you're right. Maybe 27" is the deck size? Yes it's a 13 HP engine. I'll look for the sticker tonight and see what size battery I need.


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## Johnnybar (Apr 17, 2017)

Hook jumper cables to a car/truck battery and if that does not spin the motor over, check cables, relay and connections...only then replace the starter. Don't overlook the starter relay...bypass jump it to see if it is bad. If it does spin the motor and does not start easily check the other items i mentioned earlier. Relays and ignition switches can be found under $10. Here is the replacement starter @ $37

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-12V-STA...ash=item3ab76244cb:g:VykAAOSw-0xYcFb7&vxp=mtr


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## Tyler Davis (Apr 17, 2017)

Here are some pictures of the labels


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## Tyler Davis (Apr 24, 2017)

Called MTD and they were of little help. Customer Service rep did 5 minutes of research while I was on hold and was happy to tell me that "your mower needs a 12V battery" . Thanks!

The current battery is this one: https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Group-Size-U1-7-Lawn-and-Garden-Battery/21984263
Is any U1-size battery OK to use, or is there something specific about a "U1-7"?

Here is the charger-maintainer I have. Is this good enough, or do I need to buy a "Battery Tender" brand?


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## ChoppyChoppy (Apr 24, 2017)

GrassGuerilla said:


> Wives tale. Local battery re-manufacturer assures me that if that were true, 25% of their batteries would be junk. (Bottom row sits on concrete floor). I thought the same as you for years and always set em on a board instead of the floor. Regularly get 4-6 years out of Interstate mower batteries kept on a float charger Dec-Mar.
> 
> Pretty sure the OP has a size or two too small a battery for the engine he's cranking. I run a 300 cca on a 25 hp Kawasaki.



I'm told back in the early days of car batteries (20s-30s) the battery cases weren't very good (no plastic then) so it was were the tale came from.
I have had "bad" batteries weap a bit, if left on concrete it will chew up the slab some.


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## grizz55chev (Apr 24, 2017)

ValleyFirewood said:


> I'm told back in the early days of car batteries (20s-30s) the battery cases weren't very good (no plastic then) so it was were the tale came from.
> I have had "bad" batteries weap a bit, if left on concrete it will chew up the slab some.


That would be a good reason to not leave your battery on the garage floor, I'm thinking.


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## Johnnybar (Apr 24, 2017)

Tyler Davis said:


> Called MTD and they were of little help. Customer Service rep did 5 minutes of research while I was on hold and was happy to tell me that "your mower needs a 12V battery" . Thanks!
> 
> The current battery is this one: https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Group-Size-U1-7-Lawn-and-Garden-Battery/21984263
> Is any U1-size battery OK to use, or is there something specific about a "U1-7"?
> ...


I believe U1 is the physical size of the battery so any should fit but, the additional codes refer to polarity and terminal types iirc. With the terminals on the opposite side of the battery or facing away from you, UI-7 is positive in the top right terminal, U1R-7 is neg top right and U1P-7 is a few more cranking amps and positive top right. The U1P-7 likely has an extra pair of plates in each cell allowing for more amps but slightly less plate life because all of it's plates are a little thinner in order to fit.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Apr 24, 2017)

U1 is the most common for yard tractors. Also is U1R which is just the terminals reversed.

IMO just buy the cheap one, I've not really seen any one brand that is "good" or any cheapo that is "bad". I service many dozen tractors each spring and fall so not just on my own stuff. Walmart usually put them on sale for $35 or so around this time in prep for mowing season in a month or so.


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## Johnnybar (Apr 25, 2017)

ValleyFirewood said:


> U1 is the most common for yard tractors. Also is U1R which is just the terminals reversed.
> 
> IMO just buy the cheap one, I've not really seen any one brand that is "good" or any cheapo that is "bad". I service many dozen tractors each spring and fall so not just on my own stuff. Walmart usually put them on sale for $35 or so around this time in prep for mowing season in a month or so.


Boy, you guys do get charged a big chunk extra at the northern latitudes. U1's are $20 down my way.


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## ironman_gq (Apr 25, 2017)

Shipping batteries is expensive


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## lone wolf (Apr 25, 2017)

GrassGuerilla said:


> Wives tale. Local battery re-manufacturer assures me that if that were true, 25% of their batteries would be junk. (Bottom row sits on concrete floor). I thought the same as you for years and always set em on a board instead of the floor. Regularly get 4-6 years out of Interstate mower batteries kept on a float charger Dec-Mar.
> 
> Pretty sure the OP has a size or two too small a battery for the engine he's cranking. I run a 300 cca on a 25 hp Kawasaki.


Well if they ain't fully charged in the winter they can freeze and that sure ain't good for them. That's what the battery warehouse owner around here told me.


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## lone wolf (Apr 25, 2017)

https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/experience/2014/01/what-happens-if-my-car-battery-freezes


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## bowtechmadman (Apr 25, 2017)

I'm confused didn't you say Autozone tested the battery and said it's fine? You have another issue that should be plenty of battery for 13hp. Battery cables, bad connections, starter relay, starter is where I would be looking if the battery tested fine. I've replaced the cables twice on my 96 JD 18hp lawn mower and the battery 3 times (guess I'm lucky 21yrs, 3 batteries and never use trickle charger/maintainer in the winter). Probably the first place I'd be looking is the battery cables and connectors.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Apr 25, 2017)

Just spent about 10 mins on a ZTR yesterday. Owner did "shotgun troubleshooting". Put new battery, new relay, new starter, couldn't figure it out. Ground wire was bad. Made a new one, and he was back for his mower before he had even left town. He about thought I could walk on water!


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## cedarhollow (Apr 25, 2017)

I never could understand why lawnmowers don't have space for or are fitted for a small full size car battery. I have put them on lawnmowers where there is space. Like my old original pipe frame yazoo and my studebaker Gravelys
I've maintained batteries on stuff in the barn with an old boat battery maintainer/charger that I happened upon.


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## Thommo (May 14, 2017)

I would check the valve clearances before going through the electrical system. If the valve clearances are loose the decompressor wont work so it will be hard to wind over. While you have the valve cover off you should check check the movement of the valves as you wind the motor over to see if the decompressor is actually working.


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## Tyler Davis (May 18, 2017)

I bought a new battery and attached it. I hear a single click, but the starter doesn't turn. What's the next thing to check ? Ignition? The headlights turn on in that position, does that mean my ground is good?


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## lone wolf (May 18, 2017)

Tyler Davis said:


> I bought a new battery and attached it. I hear a single click, but the starter doesn't turn. What's the next thing to check ? Ignition? The headlights turn on in that position, does that mean my ground is good?


Starter rely, jump it with an insulated screwdriver. If it will reach.


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## grizz55chev (May 18, 2017)

Tyler Davis said:


> I bought a new battery and attached it. I hear a single click, but the starter doesn't turn. What's the next thing to check ? Ignition? The headlights turn on in that position, does that mean my ground is good?


Check the starter, use a jumper cable to connect straight to the starter from the battery bypassing the relay, if the starter engages you have a bad connection or bad relay.


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## Tyler Davis (May 20, 2017)

Ok I connected the battery positive to the starter motor with a jumper cable. The starter spun up the engine, but the engine didn't turn over. I'm going to get a replacement solenoid and go from there


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## lone wolf (May 20, 2017)

Tyler Davis said:


> Ok I connected the battery positive to the starter motor with a jumper cable. The starter spun up the engine, but the engine didn't turn over. I'm going to get a replacement solenoid and go from there


What do you mean it cranks but wont fire or the starter makes noise but don't crank the motor?


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## Tyler Davis (May 21, 2017)

lone wolf said:


> What do you mean it cranks but wont fire or the starter makes noise but don't crank the motor?



The former. The starter spins the motor round and round, but the engine doesn't fire. When I jump that part of the electoral system, am I also bypassing the spark/ignition system ?


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## lone wolf (May 21, 2017)

Tyler Davis said:


> The former. The starter spins the motor round and round, but the engine doesn't fire. When I jump that part of the electoral system, am I also bypassing the spark/ignition system ?


No it don't by pass. Pull the plug and lay it on the head and see if it sparks, usually these problems like you are having is no fuel delivery, but eliminate the spark as a problem first then pull the carb and clean it .


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## Thommo (May 22, 2017)

It might have a fuel cut solenoid on the bottom of the carby that cuts off the fuel supply to the main jet when the key is turned off. If the key is turned off i think the coil is earthed out to stop spark too


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## grizz55chev (May 22, 2017)

lone wolf said:


> No it don't by pass. Pull the plug and lay it on the head and see if it sparks, usually these problems like you are having is no fuel delivery, but eliminate the spark as a problem first then pull the carb and clean it .


If it's a fuel problem, you can test by taking off the air cleaner and squirting starter fluid in the carb and turning the motor over, if it fires you have a fuel delivery problem.


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## Tyler Davis (Jun 1, 2017)

Well I installed the new solenoid today. Nothing. No click or starter activity. So possibly the problem is...The ignition ? Or a safety interlock? What test points can I probe with my multimeter to narrow this down?


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## lone wolf (Jun 1, 2017)

Tyler Davis said:


> Well I installed the new solenoid today. Nothing. No click or starter activity. So possibly the problem is...The ignition ? Or a safety interlock? What test points can I probe with my multimeter to narrow this down?


Use a test light or 12 v meter and see where the power stops test everywhere you can. There may be a safety switch under the seat. Start at the battery and see if it has like 12.6 and follow the hot wire from there till you lose it.


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