# sharpener



## 87 blazer (Jan 22, 2012)

does anyone have any info on a good chainsaw sharpener i cant sharpen one correct with a hand file


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## Guido Salvage (Jan 22, 2012)

There are a number of guides and jigs available that you either clamp onto your bar or that lay over it that will allow you to achieve uniform angles across all your cutters with a file. All the major saw and chain manufacturers offer them, as well as site sponsor Baileys. I have given you a link below as an example:

Chain Saw Filing & Sharpening Tools - Chainsaw Accessories | STIHL

There are also handheld 12V electric grinders as well as 120V bench mounted grinders if you are doing volumes of chains.


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## dgburner (Jan 25, 2012)

I wouldn't give up on the hand file so easily. Watch the Stihl.com how to sharpen your chainsaw video and you should see that if you have the right tools (round file, flat file and depth gauge) and are conservative with you filing its pretty hard to go wrong. I butchered my first chain by overdoing it freehand but once I realized that by keeping an eye on the depth and cleaning up the cutting edges regularly with a couple swipes of the file there was nothing to it.


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## no tree to big (Jan 25, 2012)

if you go to home depot and get a "file guide" commonly oregon brand is carried. it comes with a file, handle, and a "guide" once assembled its almost impossible to mess up a chain you might throw the angle off a bit but it will still cut and you can try and recover the next time around its only like 8 bucks for the thing


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## brogan007 (Jan 26, 2012)

*$$$ ?*

It depends on your situation...if money is a major issue, or you like the "personal skill" feeling...persevere with the hand file. If you want to go another route...buy an electric grinder. I'm delighted with the Timber Tuff grinder for ~ $140. After I figured out how to set it up, and after experimenting with a chain several times....the chains are so damned sharp, it's a pleasure to lay the bar on a log.
I buggered around for ages, unsure of which grinder / if I should etc.....extremely happy with what I have now.
I only have 3/8 Stihl chains.


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## 4675797 (Jan 27, 2012)

I think the hand file work the best but dermal makes a chain saw shaping grinding wheel


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## sgreanbeans (Jan 28, 2012)

brogan007 said:


> It depends on your situation...if money is a major issue, or you like the "personal skill" feeling...persevere with the hand file. If you want to go another route...buy an electric grinder. I'm delighted with the Timber Tuff grinder for ~ $140. After I figured out how to set it up, and after experimenting with a chain several times....the chains are so damned sharp, it's a pleasure to lay the bar on a log.
> I buggered around for ages, unsure of which grinder / if I should etc.....extremely happy with what I have now.
> I only have 3/8 Stihl chains.



That's what I have, if you look at the Oregon one, they are the exact same thing! Different colors! Good little machine for 140


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## treemandan (Jan 28, 2012)

87 blazer said:


> does anyone have any info on a good chainsaw sharpener i cant sharpen one correct with a hand file



Yes you can... AND YOU WILL! Don't give up now. There are other things to consider when sharpening. Maybe the bar is beat; enlarged groove, peened over rails. That will make the chain feel dull.


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## lumberjackmoe (May 6, 2012)

*Checking for accuracy*

I purchased a NT sharpener and have had it about 1 week now. Like so many others I had a broken wheel. Wouldn't you know it it was the one that I needed to sharpen my chains with a 3/8" pitch. The chains are Oregon 72 GL. 
There is another forum about this NT grinder that listed all of the mod to bring this grinder up to par.
I was wondering about the precision of the measurements. I tried to the best of my ability to try to figure out if the displays were accurate. Found they were surprising inaccurate. I don't feel that the inaccuracies would be that drastic to make that much difference in the performance of the cutting.
Has anyone else wonder about the inaccuracies and attempted to see if they were accurate ?


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## blades (May 7, 2012)

The angles are not super critical. close to 30-35 deg across the top and close to 60 deg top to bottom. It is more important that the cutters, left and right are equal length all the way around the chain loop. The other thing to not forget is to take a couple swipes off the depth gauges. There are gauges to check their height for a couple bucks.


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## shooterschafer (May 19, 2012)

A good swiss made handfile will cut great , I always use a handfile unless the teeth get dinged real bad from a nail, rock or whatever. Then its time to put it on my MAXX benchmount. I hate taking a chain off for sharpening I often leave a chain on the saw for the life of it unless the bar needs a dressing. German files are pretty good but swiss kick ars !


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## shooterschafer (May 19, 2012)

I also tend to file the drags on a new chain, just a couple of swipes , if you get them uneven its difficult to get them even again so little by little is best I have found. Next on my list is a diamond wheel for my bench mount grinder.


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## D&B Mack (May 19, 2012)

I found this was the easiest while still remaining effective.

Bailey's - Pferd ChainSharp Filing Guide


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## spydahead (May 20, 2012)

Do a search in the chainsaw forum for the (timberline chain saw sharpener), best purchase i've made in a while.


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## Philbert (May 20, 2012)

87 blazer said:


> does anyone have any info on a good chainsaw sharpener i cant sharpen one correct with a hand file



Welcome to A.S.

You can see that there are a lot of opinions when it comes to sharpening. Some people don't even bother and pay someone else to do it.

If you want to get really good file results try starting with the Granberg type filing jigs for under $30. These take a little bit of attention to figure out, but once you do, you will get sharp, dead-on, consistent cutters. They use regular files. Not the fastest solution, but they will also help you understand how to free-hand file better, and can be used to clean-up chains that you might touch up in the field by hand.

Bailey's - Granberg File-N-Joint Precision Filing Guide


If you have a larger number of chains to do, I recommend one of the better quality grinders: typically cost $260 up, unless you find a good deal on a used one.
These are not 'automatic' - they still require some patience and experience to gain skill with them so that you sharpen consistently and don't burn chains.

Bailey's - Speed Sharp Star Chain Grinder

Philbert


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## ShadeTreeWelder (Jun 10, 2012)

shooterschafer said:


> I also tend to file the drags on a new chain, just a couple of swipes , if you get them uneven its difficult to get them even again so little by little is best I have found. Next on my list is a diamond wheel for my bench mount grinder.



You do not want a diamond wheel for steel chain, diamond should only be used on carbide chain. Diamond is carbon, carbon is soluble in steel, therefore steel and diamond are not compatible.
for Steel you want a CBN, cubic boron nitride wheel, common brand name is Borazon.


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## dave_376 (Oct 2, 2012)

I'm looking for info on chain shapeners but I can't find an answer to my question so I will ask here to keep more info in one place. I was looking at the Grandberg File-N-Joint but I also saw some other sharpeners that ere similar but made by someone else I think oregon and forester. Anyone have any experience with these? They are $10 less so I want to know if they are good or should I buy a Grandberg?


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## blades (Oct 2, 2012)

Between them the basic design is similar, materials that they are made out of might differ. I have used a couple different models in the field. Granted i was in a hurry, but they did work ok. I am biased though because I have been using a bench grinding machine for more than 20 years, part of my business, so because of that have developed the " touch " with those units. I have one of the 12 volt hand grinders, not as accurate as the hand style we are discussing, Stones wear out too quick to my way of thinking. I think I am going to try another 12v unit which works like my bench units but clamps on the bar, but not the $250 Oregon version, as again it it is only for my field use as sometimes ya get caught short on sharp chains ( hidden nasties in wood). Had 1 last year ( concrete in log ) kept trying different spots 1/2 foot away from each other , just couldn't find a clean spot. Someone pasted up the tree with morter and then the tree grew over it, a good 4-5 inches deep. Extremely frustrating afternoon dealing with that one. We could not get it rolled over either, found out later there was a 6" dia. branch stuck down in the dirt about 2 ft.


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## Philbert (Oct 2, 2012)

dave_376 said:


> I was looking at the Grandberg File-N-Joint but I also saw some other sharpeners that ere similar but made by someone else I think oregon and forester. Anyone have any experience with these? They are $10 less so I want to know if they are good or should I buy a Grandberg?



Dave,

Here is a link to a thread that I started on that topic. Not comparing the Timberline to the File-N-Joint models, but a number of comments about the subtle and not so subtle differences between similar 'clamp-on-frame-style-file-guides'.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/193630.htm

Quick summary is that the Granberg is a good bet for $30 (sometimes on sale for less). Some people prefer the older style ones that are only available used. There are larger format units and smaller format units (see photos in the referenced thread). There are lots variations in materials between different brands and models. I would stick with a name brand (e.g. 'Oregon') over a no-brand unit for a first try. 

Philbert


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## treemandan (Oct 2, 2012)

87 blazer said:


> does anyone have any info on a good chainsaw sharpener i cant sharpen one correct with a hand file



Oh quit yer whinning, you lernt how to piss in a pot didn't ya? Man, if you can't figure it out a hand file then Lord help ya with that electric one.


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## smokey01 (Oct 5, 2012)

87 blazer said:


> does anyone have any info on a good chainsaw sharpener i cant sharpen one correct with a hand file








For all of 39.99 you can try one of these and see if you like it, then move up to a better model like you can buy at one of the sponsors to this board. But for the price I don't think you can go wrong with this thing.


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## smokey01 (Oct 5, 2012)

ShadeTreeWelder said:


> You do not want a diamond wheel for steel chain, diamond should only be used on carbide chain. Diamond is carbon, carbon is soluble in steel, therefore steel and diamond are not compatible.
> for Steel you want a CBN, cubic boron nitride wheel, common brand name is Borazon.



This is very interesting. Can you explain this a little more. I used diamond impregnated saws and core drilling bits for concrete and using water to clear the slurry it would go thru concrete, steel bolts and re-bar like it was butter.


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## smokey01 (Oct 5, 2012)

ShadeTreeWelder said:


> You do not want a diamond wheel for steel chain, diamond should only be used on carbide chain. Diamond is carbon, carbon is soluble in steel, therefore steel and diamond are not compatible.
> for Steel you want a CBN, cubic boron nitride wheel, common brand name is Borazon.



This explains my missing utensils, they dissolved in the dishwasher, it's like my lost sock in the dryer, I think it actually evaporated, and all this time I thought it eloped with my undies.


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## Philbert (Oct 5, 2012)

smokey01 said:


> For all of 39.99 you can try one of these and see if you like it, then move up to a better model like you can buy at one of the sponsors to this board. But for the price I don't think you can go wrong with this thing.



Have to disagree Smokey. I think that those cheap grinders can cause additional frustration and waste $. OP would be better off to buy a used grinder, save up for a better quality grinder, or put the $40 towards a Granberg or maybe one of those Timberline sharpeners that others seem to like.

If you think that you might 'move up' in quality, you would be better off trying to find someone (A.S. member?) nearby who will let you try their grinder, rather than buying the cheap one first. My opinion.



smokey01 said:


> Can you explain this a little more. I used diamond impregnated saws and core drilling bits for concrete and using water to clear the slurry it would go thru concrete, steel bolts and re-bar like it was butter.



These diamond wheels cut dry. The softer steel (compared to carbide) reportedly fills in the diamond matrix and reduces the wheel's ability to cut.

Philbert


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## smokey01 (Oct 5, 2012)

Philbert said:


> Have to disagree Smokey. I think that those cheap grinders can cause additional frustration and waste $.


Good point and I am pretty sure a guy can't go wrong just by following the path of the experts here. There are a lot of considerations to make. 


Philbert said:


> ...........These diamond wheels cut dry. The softer steel (compared to carbide) reportedly fills in the diamond matrix and reduces the wheel's ability to cut. Philbert


That makes sense about the diamond filling with the softer steel. They are expensive too. Just dressing the stone and buying new works for me.


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## tolman_paul (Oct 5, 2012)

Even before learning to sharpen a chain is learning to touch up a chain before it becomes truly dull, and to keep the chain out of stuff that immediately dulls a chain, dirt. A chain that has started to dull can be quickly touched up with a few strokes of a file per tooth. A well and goodly dulled chain will require alot of filing.

Honestly I think you're best off starting with a file guide, and pickup some spare loops of chain. A good file and guide and a couple spare loops of chain will be a much better use of your money than a cheap grinder.

A grinder isn't a gurantee you'll do a better job sharpening a chain, and one can easily ruin a chain by overheating the teath on a chain and then they'll never hold an edge. If you have a chain you've dulled to the point of just making smoke in the cut, it'll take several passes with a grinder to bring it back to life, and not burn the teeth in the process.


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## Joe Homeowner (Oct 18, 2012)

Been said by ??? before: 

Get a PFERD hand sharpening system from Baileys. PFERD also sold by Husky as "ChainSharp" or something like that sold at pro dealers.

Why PFERD ? Cost ~ $20., it is a K.I.S.S. tool, simple and effective since it does the raker AND tooth for each pass, and directions: just match the witness line on the top of every tooth. The PFERD comes in sizes to match the gauge of the chain. Their German files are better than Swiss IMEHO.:msp_sneaky:

Oh, it is a hand tool that can be used in the field. Did I say this is better than Silicone Implants ?:hmm3grin2orange:


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## smokey01 (Oct 18, 2012)

I respect the opinions expressed here, but NOW for 29.99 I really think it is worth the expense of trying one of these before you buy a good one. I did before purchasing a nice one from Baileysonline (item 45340) for 269.99 and never found it difficult to use and pretty good performance. Not the precision or solid feel I get from the Baileys model, but amazing for the price and after much use, it still works if I need it for a back up. I mean for the price it is like going to dinner or putting 6 gallons of gas in your truck. 
But I get what you are saying and totally agree, just putting another option out there. 
Also given that this is the Homeowner Helper Forum and not the commercial thread.


Don't have one, but this looks like the cat's meow when it comes to grinding wheels. 
Dinasaw 4-7/8" ABN Cyclone Grinding Wheels




smokey01 said:


> For all of 39.99 you can try one of these and see if you like it, then move up to a better model like you can buy at one of the sponsors to this board. But for the price I don't think you can go wrong with this thing.





Philbert said:


> Have to disagree Smokey. I think that those cheap grinders can cause additional frustration and waste $. OP would be better off to buy a used grinder, save up for a better quality grinder, or put the $40 towards a Granberg or maybe one of those Timberline sharpeners that others seem to like.
> If you think that you might 'move up' in quality, you would be better off trying to find someone (A.S. member?) nearby who will let you try their grinder, rather than buying the cheap one first. My opinion.
> 
> These diamond wheels cut dry. The softer steel (compared to carbide) reportedly fills in the diamond matrix and reduces the wheel's ability to cut.
> ...


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## sgreanbeans (Oct 19, 2012)

Do not waste your money on those cheap POS ones, they suck. The bushings in them wear out real fast and your angles will be all over the place.
Keeping in mind....Smokey....that this is the Homeowner Helper Forum, ya know, where they come to ask Pros, not another homeowner with a new hobby.


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## troythetreeman (Oct 19, 2012)

i free hand all my saws, ill get them as sharp as new but i did screw a few up in the learning curve
i dont really bother with anything other then my climbers tho unless in a bind
for 5$ i can take one in, get good at free hand but find a local guy who does consistently good work, then buy enough chain you never have to file one again


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## smokey01 (Oct 19, 2012)

sgreanbeans said:


> Do not waste your money on those cheap POS ones, they suck. The bushings in them wear out real fast and your angles will be all over the place.


So you have some experience in using these cheap things?  I have never used one enough to wear out the bushing. 
All I am saying is that I think they are worth 29 bucks to try. That is it, period, don't read more into it than that, just 29 bucks. Hell, you could spend 29 bucks on gas just to go to a friends house to try one and you couldn't rent one for 29 bucks. 


sgreanbeans said:


> .
> Keeping in mind....Smokey....that this is the Homeowner Helper Forum, ya know, where they come to ask Pros, not another homeowner with a new hobby.


You are exactly right, and in my professional opinion, it is worth 29 bucks to try one. 
Just because I (or others) do not do it FULL time, does not mean I do not have a professional opinion or that I do not have experience using chainsaws. In this particular case my experience is based on; by hand with a file, by hand with a filing guide, with a Dremel attachment and guide, the new Powersharp Diamond by Oregon and with bench mounted grinders. For my needs I have found the bench mounted grinder perfect and I find the moderately priced one from Baileys perfect. 
So...when 87 blazer asks........


87 blazer said:


> does anyone have any info on a good chainsaw sharpener i cant sharpen one correct with a hand file


I try to help............with my professional opinion and experience. (As a side note, be careful slamming some guy because it is a hobby, you will find some real talent and passion there, maybe even more so than someone just going thru the motions at work.)


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## sgreanbeans (Oct 20, 2012)

smokey01 said:


> So you have some experience in using these cheap things?  I have never used one enough to wear out the bushing.
> All I am saying is that I think they are worth 29 bucks to try. That is it, period, don't read more into it than that, just 29 bucks. Hell, you could spend 29 bucks on gas just to go to a friends house to try one and you couldn't rent one for 29 bucks.
> 
> You are exactly right, and in my professional opinion, it is worth 29 bucks to try one.
> ...



Yes I do have experience with them and they suck. No, you don't get to have a "professional" opinion, as you are not a pro. Your a hobbyist, and you are NOT the first one who thought they could jump on here and hand out info as soon as you learn it, trying to come off as a pro. You can have all the passion in the world for something, that does not mean you really have any true time, to have an opinion on the subject, let alone a "professional opinion". You want to give advise, go to the pilot forum. As for advice here, stop. Just because you would light 30 buck on fire, does not mean the next guy wants 2. If u use that thing and it works for ya, then that tells me you cant recognize the difference. You made a chair on top of a stick, this does not give you free admission to the "tree guy world", you are just another HO with a wild hair. One of many.
Let me remind you, this is Arboristsite.com, not Joehomeonwerwithalittlecoin.com. You want to learn, great, then sit down and listen, ask Q's, but do not try to come one here and hand it out like you are one of us. You are not. 
*In other words. Know your place*. 
Talent you say, in what? 
You are now restricted to this HO forum, do not post in the others and do not hand out advise in this one. These guys are on here to learn form the Pros and you giving them advise is a safety issue. The other HO's don't want to hear it from you either, they want info from guys who HAVE been doing this, full time, for years. That is why they come here. 101 is for guys in the business that are trying to work their way up, so you don't apply there either. Comm and Climbing, never. This is not a debate or a argument, just the way it is, and always will be.
Its a safety thing. Something we don't "play with" here. This is not our hobby.


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## Joe Homeowner (Oct 20, 2012)

sgreanbeans said:


> Yes I do have experience with them and they suck. No, you don't get to have a "professional" opinion, as you are not a pro. Your a hobbyist, and you are NOT the first one who thought they could jump on here and hand out info as soon as you learn it, trying to come off as a pro. You can have all the passion in the world for something, that does not mean you really have any true time, to have an opinion on the subject, let alone a "professional opinion". You want to give advise, go to the pilot forum. As for advice here, stop. Just because you would light 30 buck on fire, does not mean the next guy wants 2. If u use that thing and it works for ya, then that tells me you cant recognize the difference. You made a chair on top of a stick, this does not give you free admission to the "tree guy world", you are just another HO with a wild hair. One of many.
> Let me remind you, this is Arboristsite.com, not Joehomeonwerwithalittlecoin.com. You want to learn, great, then sit down and listen, ask Q's, but do not try to come one here and hand it out like you are one of us. You are not.
> *In other words. Know your place*.
> Talent you say, in what?
> ...



*We have ignition Houston.*:angry3:


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## Gologit (Oct 20, 2012)

sgreanbeans said:


> Yes I do have experience with them and they suck. No, you don't get to have a "professional" opinion, as you are not a pro. Your a hobbyist, and you are NOT the first one who thought they could jump on here and hand out info as soon as you learn it, trying to come off as a pro. You can have all the passion in the world for something, that does not mean you really have any true time, to have an opinion on the subject, let alone a "professional opinion". You want to give advise, go to the pilot forum. As for advice here, stop. Just because you would light 30 buck on fire, does not mean the next guy wants 2. If u use that thing and it works for ya, then that tells me you cant recognize the difference. You made a chair on top of a stick, this does not give you free admission to the "tree guy world", you are just another HO with a wild hair. One of many.
> Let me remind you, this is Arboristsite.com, not Joehomeonwerwithalittlecoin.com. You want to learn, great, then sit down and listen, ask Q's, but do not try to come one here and hand it out like you are one of us. You are not.
> *In other words. Know your place*.
> Talent you say, in what?
> ...



Well said. This is no place for a poser or a dilettante.


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## Gologit (Oct 20, 2012)

Joe Homeowner said:


> *We have ignition Houston.*:angry3:




Complaining about site moderation, LB?


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## smokey01 (Oct 20, 2012)

sgreanbeans said:


> That's what I have, if you look at the Oregon one, they are the exact same thing! Different colors! Good little machine for 140


Out of 436 words in this thread, this is all your vast experience can put out.........I also have a Timber Tuff, and I like it? 
Don't get me wrong, that might just be what the guy is looking for, he said he is looking for something other than a hand file. 
But really, put some meat and potatoes into your post. You got all of the experience in the world, share it! What other types of grinders can you tell him about, which other types did not work for you. Give the guy some real help, he asked a simple question, focus on the question, help him. 
Just because someone makes a suggestion here does not mean he has to do it. It is all a bunch of thoughts and ideas, in this case "good chainsaw sharpener" other than by hand. Next time I'll just say........I have one from Baileys and I like it, it is made in Italy, grinds real good. 

Timber Tuff
Are you talking about the one made in China with some of the following reviews... 

1. Some reviews I've read online have said that the TT they purchased was damaged upon delivery. Looking at the packaging, I can see why. No foam, no contoured insulation.. not even bubble wrap! Just chucked in the box.. This was a brand new, unopened box so its not like somebody removed the packaging. Not good at all.
2. As is typical of Chinese knock offs, he casting of the base left a lot to be desired.. its not 90* and required washers as shims in order to mount it to my stand.
3. No picture, but the mount for the vise where the chain is held is quite crude. THere was Chi-spec grease in there (gravel grease) that wasnt very slick. I cleaned that off and applied Teflon Super-Lube. I also lubes the outer ring where the vise swivels. That helped a ton, but its still quite stiff when changing from side to side. I hope it will work in. 
6. The angle gauges are very cheesy. Particularly the tooth angle. They could have one a better (and maybe more accurate) job of scribing the angles for setup.


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## sgreanbeans (Oct 21, 2012)

My post really had nothing to do with the sharpener, just used that for a example, but it was the straw that broke the back. My post was about you and your instant new found knowledge that you choose to share.........everywhere. My vast worldly experience is what zeroed me in on you, when you first came here, was not sure how to take you at first, but I do now. Again, you are not the first to do this on here, wont be the last. 
As for the info that I gave the OP, that may be all he needed, some guys don't need their hand held, just a endorsement by someone who has done this for years, and that is good enough for them, they, at that point can take the ball and run. The others, who need to be coddled and held, well they are in the wrong place and probably should put their wild thing down and go back in the house. 

Heed what I say.


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## DavdH (Oct 24, 2012)

Timberline, mention arborsite and get a discount. Pricy, simple, accurate,doesn't need a plug in several people on here I sorta agree w/ sometimes like them. Pricy.. worth it, up to you.


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## Gologit (Oct 24, 2012)

smokey01 said:


> *“you and your instant new found knowledge that you choose to share.........everywhere.”*
> 
> One would expect something other than to share knowledge (and experiences, I’m working on those) on a discussion forum? What difference does it really make WHEN it is learned? I wish some would share more of that old found knowledge they have.
> “.........everywhere “ At least everywhere on this forum that seems appropriate. I get the difference between talking about a Blakes Hitch in 101 and the Singing Tree Rope Wrench in the advanced. And I have learned that even if something appears to have a commercial use, and it involves a rope and a chain, don’t even think about mentioning it to the pros.
> ...



Post moved to Recreational Climbing as per request of smokey01 10/20/12


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## SquirrelMan (Oct 24, 2012)

my first saw had a safety chain.. I thought I was a idiot and couldn't sharpen but when I got a real chain, I saw what the deal was. You are not using safety chains, are you?


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## Philbert (Oct 24, 2012)

SquirrelMan said:


> my first saw had a safety chain.. I thought I was a idiot and couldn't sharpen but when I got a real chain, I saw what the deal was. You are not using safety chains, are you?



The low-kickback feature has nothing to do with filing cutters. It can slow down filing the rakers. When properly sharpened, it will cut plenty of wood.

If you can't file 'safety' chain then you still can't file.

JMHO

Philbert


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## SquirrelMan (Oct 25, 2012)

Philbert said:


> The low-kickback feature has nothing to do with filing cutters. It can slow down filing the rakers. When properly sharpened, it will cut plenty of wood.
> 
> If you can't file 'safety' chain then you still can't file.
> 
> ...



hmm.. when I switched over, I have had no problems sharpening. Actually I got a polesaw and noticed that I was having no issues with getting that blade to cut. Even had a more seasoned guy borrow that saw and sharpen it himself just to tell me it sucked. I would disagree with you.


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## Philbert (Oct 25, 2012)

SquirrelMan said:


> hmm.. when I switched over, I have had no problems sharpening. Actually I got a polesaw and noticed that I was having no issues with getting that blade to cut.




There are situations where a low kickback chain will not _CUT_ as aggressively as a standard chain, but that is separate from the skill of sharpening - grinding or filing consistent edges and bevels in the cutters and adjusting the depth gauges.

A lot of guys do not get consistent edges and do not adjust the depth gauges properly, so the cutters do not make enough contact with the wood.

A properly sharpened 'safety' chain will self-feed through most firewood and normal bucking and limbing tasks. It will be noticeably slower when bore cutting, or with big wood (larger that 24" diameter) because it cannot clear the chips as well.

Philbert


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