# Which weight oil???



## NYH1 (Mar 13, 2010)

I'm an Amsoil dealer so obviously I'm going to use their products. I don't want to start a "_my brand is better then your brand war_" either. I'm more interested in the weight of the oil you're using then the brand. Whether or not it's regular or synthetic would be nice to know too. 

I'm using a hydraulic flat tappet cam so I need to use an oil with a high level of zinc (ZDDP) in it. Amsoil has three oils that have more then enough zinc (ZDDP) in them for my application. A 20W-50 which is to thick for my application. They also have a 10W-40 and a Heavy Duty 5W-30 Diesel oil which is also supposed to work really well in gasoline engines too. 

I'm going to use either their 10W-40 or 5W-30 oil. I'm not sure which weight would be better for my application though. I'm rebuilding my motor right now. I'm going to break it in using regular oil with an Amsoil EA Oil Filter and 12 oz. of Comp Cams Engine Break-In Oil Additive.

I'm going to drive my car mainly in the warmer months where the temperatures will range from 60° to 90°. However it'll also be driven in the early spring and late fall where the temperatures can be as low as 40° or so. In the early spring and late fall I can drive to work in the afternoon and it could be 70-80° out. At night when I get out of work it could have dropped into the 40°s. 

I'd like to use the same oil all season long and don't really want to use additives other then for the initial break-in. What weight oil do you guys/gals use and under what conditions? Of the Amsoil 10W-40 and 5W-30 oils, which would you recommend? 

Thanks...and no brand wars please, NYH1!


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## NYH1 (Mar 13, 2010)

Here are the spec's on my motor.

*SHORT BLOCK-*
*385 stroker (4.040 bore x 3.750 stroke) 2 bolt main block with ARP main bolts, block casting number 3970010. Pistons are in the hole .008" to - .012" with slight piston rocking. 
*Forged Keith Black FHR IC9945 19.6cc dished pistons. Compression ratio's SCR 9.1 and DCR 7.93 with 67cc chamber head using a .038" head gasket. I don't want to use copper head gaskets. Compression ratio come from Keith Blacks Compression Ratio Calculator.
*Scat 3.750" stroke Cast Pro Comp Stroker Lightweight Crankshaft.
*Scat 6" Forged 4340 I-Beam Pro Stock Rods.
*Assembly has been internally balanced.
*Melling oil pump part number 10552 10% over stock volume output. Moroso 5 quart pan with rear baffle. Passenger side front oil galley plug drilled with a .0315" hole.
*Lunati Voodoo 262/268 hydraulic flat tappet cam, 219/227 dur. @.050", .468/.489 lift, 112LSA 1400-5800 RPM range in a 350. My larger 385 will drop the RPM range a few 100 RPM'S
*Lunati double roller timing chain and gear set part number 93099.

*HEADS AND OTHER UPPER END PARTS-* 
*Summit Vortec heads.
*Comp Cams 1.5 self aligned roller tip rocker arms.
*Edelbrock's regular/non Air-Gap Vortec Performer RPM intake.
*Edelbrock 650 AVS carb.
*Stock HEI distributor that is going to be updated.

*CAR-*
*78 Camaro stock weight, I have no plans on trying to make it lighter.
*Current tires are 235/60-14 all the way around. I may go to 255/15-15 rear and 225/60-15 front. That won't happen any time soon.
*Hedman 1 5/8" full length headers
*Flowmaster 2 1/2" full length dual exhaust system.
*TH350 transmission. I plan on using a 2000/2200 stall converter max. Maybe a 700R4 or TH2004R in the future, no time soon though.
*8.5" rear end with 3.42 gears.
*I'd like to run it on 89 to 91 octane fuel if possible.

*PLANNED USE-*
*Daily driver/mild street performance car. It's not going to be a "weekend Warrior", it's going to be driven quite a bit.
*I definitely like my motor to make power up to at least 5600 RPM's. However I'd like to keep my RPM's under 5800/6000 max. My rotating assembly has be balanced by a really good machine shop.

Thanks, NYH1!


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## slipknot91 (Mar 14, 2010)

I have always ran Mobil 15w50EP in the street/strip vehicle.

Not too heavy and not too light.


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## spacemule (Mar 16, 2010)

You're overthinking it. I've ran a half a million miles in my driving career using only what the manufacturer recommended with no additives, and I've never had an oil related failure. I have driven in weather from 10 below zero to 105 above.


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## dingeryote (Mar 16, 2010)

Not an oil guy by any means, but have built and run modified street cars, trucks and jeeps as daily drivers on and off since I was a kid.

You aren't running anything that is extreme, and even your Cam profiles are real world sensible. 

For GP the 10-40 should do you fine and is my own default weight for just about any old school motor. Lifters should be fine on cold start up with it considering the upgraded oil pump, and the extra protection for the heat is a definate bonus.

"Warmed over" motors are just that. They make more heat, and it's up to the oil to cool the valve train to a good degree. 

If ya start getting lifter clatter on start up in the cold months, switch down though. 

5-30 is a great compromise for less parasitic drag, but the breakdown from heat leaves you less margin of error...at least with the dino oils that I grew up on. 

Just my .02.
Have fun with your build!!!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## dingeryote (Mar 16, 2010)

spacemule said:


> You're overthinking it. I've ran a half a million miles in my driving career using only what the manufacturer recommended with no additives, and I've never had an oil related failure. I have driven in weather from 10 below zero to 105 above.



Space,

He IS the manufacturer. LOL!! 

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## spacemule (Mar 16, 2010)

dingeryote said:


> Space,
> 
> He IS the manufacturer. LOL!!
> 
> ...



dealer does not equal manufacturer.


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## dingeryote (Mar 16, 2010)

spacemule said:


> dealer does not equal manufacturer.



Nope it dosn't. He sells oil.

He's also building a motor that is not factory spec. but of his own combinations of aftermarket components.... Not GM's.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## spacemule (Mar 16, 2010)

dingeryote said:


> Nope it dosn't. He sells oil.
> 
> He's also building a motor that is not factory spec. but of his own combinations of aftermarket components.... Not GM's.
> 
> ...



So he's an assembler, not a manufacturer.


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## ray benson (Mar 16, 2010)

oil zinc levels.


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## ray benson (Mar 16, 2010)

another zinc oil level document.
oil zinc levels

Name/Vis/P(ppm)/Zn(ppm)/B(ppm)/Detergents(ppm)/API/Date/Type/Source 

Amerilube/10w50/1254/1115/3001/SL/04/07/SYN/Blackstone 
Amsoil AFL Euro 5w40 701 804 50 1452 SL 11/06 SYN Staveley 
Amsoil HDEO 5w40 794 1081 2276 CJ-4 11/06 SYN Staveley 
Amsoil Series 2000Racing20w50 1014 1123 12 3209 SM 02/07 SYN Blackstone 
Amsoil V-Twin/MC 20w50 1193 1281 3564 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley 
Amsoil XL-7500 5w20 434 532 165 1601 SL 08/06 SEMI Blackstone 
Amsoil XL-7500 5w20 334 1096 209 3061 SL 06/06 SEMI Staveley 
Castrol Act Evo 20w50 765 1126 1724 SG 05/06 DINO Staveley 
Castrol GPS 4STK MC2 20w50 767 1133 1544 SG 05/06 SYN Staveley 
Castrol GTX 20w50 1157 1422 1848 SM 11/05 DINO Staveley 
Castrol GTX High Mile 20w50 1248 1382 1848 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley 
Castrol Syntec 5w40 786 918 1979 SL 09/06 SYN Blackstone 
Castrol Syntec 5w50 921 914 58 2628 SM 11/05 SYN Staveley 
Castrol Syntec Blend 20w50 937 916 1197 SM 03/07 SEMI Staveley 
Castrol Tection Extra 15w40 965 1094 46 2461 CI-4 3/07 DINO Blackstone 
Castrol TWS 10w60 425 1294 111 2383 SJ 06/06 SYN Staveley 
Chevron Delo 400 15w40 1191 1622 3668 CI-4 06/06 DINO Staveley 
Delvac 1 5w40 1390 1803 76 2583 CI-4 11/05 SYN Staveley 
Delvac 1300 Super 15w40 1380 1702 78 2388 CI-4 11/05 DINO Staveley 
Elf 505.01 VW 5w40 584 1092 2691 SL 05/06 SYN Staveley 
Exxon Av Break-in oil 20w50 1 4 23 N/A 11/05 DINO Staveley 
Exxon Av Oil 20w50 702 32 33 N/A 11/05 SEMI Staveley 
Exxon Superflow 20w50 717 848 96 2650 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley 
Ford Motorcraft 5w20 545 848 298 2005 SM 01/07 SEMI Staveley 
Harley Davidson Syn3 20w50 1081 1182 264 1482 SG 11/05 SYN Staveley 
Havoline 20w50 425 494 87 1049 SM 03/07 DINO Blackstone 
Joe Gibbs Racing XP5 20w50 920 1231 504 SG 04/07 SEMI Blackstone 
Kendal GT (Vintage) 20W50 1229 1415 2408 SE 11/05 DINO Blackstone 
Kendall GT 20w50 904 1233 2885 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley 
Kendall GT 10w30 582 872 278 1416 SM 11/05 SEMI Staveley 
Kendall GT 10w40 598 897 282 1565 SM 11/05 SEMI Staveley 
Lucas Hi Perf. Motor Oil 20w50 386 460 214 1079 SM 02/07 SYN Blackstone 
Mobil 1 0w40 761 876 167 2630 SM 03/07 SYN Blackstone 
Mobil 1 0w40 796 907 178 2650 SM 03/07 SYN Blackstone 
Mobil 1 0w40 808 976 185 3256 SL 04/03 SYN Blackstone 
Mobil 1 0w40 706 834 148 2246 SM 02/05 SYN Blackstone 
Mobil 1 15w50 952 1030 41 2175 SM 03/07 SYN Staveley 
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 1193 1376 228 2970 SL 04/07 SYN Blackstone 
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 1062 1279 79 2485 SM 04/07 SYN Blackstone 
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 906 1024 72 2071 SM 01/06 SYN Blackstone 
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 1315 1428 226 2593 SL 11/05 SYN Staveley 
Mobil 1 mx4t 10w40 1277 1460 188 2025 SG 03/07 SYN Blackstone 
Mobil 1 mx4t 10w40 1411 1623 188 2248 SG 04/07 SYN Blackstone 
Mobil 1 R 0w30 1399 1536 178 3051 SG 02/04 SYN Blackstone 
Mobil 1 Super Syn 15w50 1343 1390 205 2601 SL 11/05 SYN Staveley 
Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5w40 1034 1247 51 2826 CI-4 04/07 SYN Blackstone 
Mobil 1 V Twin 20w50 1329 1949 204 2130 SG 11/05 SYN Staveley 
Mobil 5k Clean 10w40 660 1028 2895 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley 
Mobil High Mile 10w40 527 1021 2844 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley 
Motul 300V Competition 5w40 1317 1409 19 3273 SH 04/05 SYN Blackstone 
Motul 300V Competition 15w50 1139 1130 20 2410 SH 05/05 SYN Blackstone 
Motul 505.01 VW 5w40 973 1226 2830 SL 05/06 SYN Staveley 
Motul Competition 15w50 1148 1327 11 2723 SH 05/06 SYN Staveley 
Motul Tekma Mega 15w40 1220 1737 145 3469 CI-4 05/06 DINO Staveley 
Mystik 15w40 1130 1224 3104 CI-4 03/07 DINO Staveley 
Mystik 10w50 700 799 2003 CI-4 03/07 SEMI Blackstone 
Penn Grade 1 Racing 20w50 664 852 2094 SJ 04/07 SEMI Blackstone 
Penn Grade 1 Racing 20w50 801 1058 2827 SJ 06/06 SEMI Staveley 
Pennzoil 20w50 501 800 223 2062 SM 01/07 DINO Staveley 
Quaker State Q Full Syn 5w50 923 908 1917 SM 11/05 SYN Staveley 
Redline 15w50 924 1004 27 2287 SM 02/07 SYN Blackstone 
Redline 10w40 1440 1872 3039 SL 11/05 SYN Staveley 
Rotella 15w40 843 946 26 1881 CJ-4 03/07 DINO Blackstone 
Rotella 15w40 996 1130 32 2054 CJ-4 04/07 DINO Staveley 
Rotella 15w40 1278 1555 2946 CI-4 11/05 DINO Staveley 
Rotella 5w40 1397 1552 2921 CI-4 11/05 SYN Staveley 
Royal Purple 20w50 668 763 2034 SJ 02/07 SYN Blackstone 
Royal Purple 20w50 1290 1337 3295 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley 
Royal Purple Max Cycle 10w40 4085 1222 2599 SJ 07/05 SYN Blackstone 
Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w50 3179 1030 2142 SJ 04/07 SYN Blackstone 
Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w50 3907 1458 2478 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley 
Royal Purple Racing 51 20w50 1285 1417 2639 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley 
Royal Purple XPR 10w40 1034 1741 2709 SJ 12/06 SYN Blackstone 
Schaeffer 7000 Supreme 20w50 1249 1626 2451 SL 06/06 SEMI Staveley 
Schaeffer 9000 Supreme 5w40 1113 1315 10 3126 SL 07/05 SYN Blackstone 
Swepco 306 15w40 763 895 92 1732 CI-4 03/07 DINO Blackstone 
Swepco 306 15w40 1238 1476 128 2464 CI-4 04/07 DINO Staveley 
Torco SR-1 20w50 363 412 759 SG 03/07 SYN Blackstone 
Torco SR-5 20w50 1072 830 10 1481 SG 02/07 SYN Blackstone 
Torco T-4SR 20w50 1059 969 1293 SG 05/06 SYN Staveley 
Torco TR-1 20w50 670 571 958 SG 03/07 SYN Blackstone 
Torco V Series ST 20w50 1030 1286 2231 SG 05/06 SEMI Staveley 
Valvoline All Fleet Plus 15w40 1110 1232 3559 CI-4 10/06 DINO Staveley 
Valvoline Durablend 20w50 566 732 13 2606 SM 06/06 SEMI Staveley 
Valvoline Max Life 20w50 691 879 17 2170 SM 11/05 DINO Staveley 
Valvoline Prem. Blue 15w40 1314 1838 158 4329 CI-4 06/06 DINO Staveley 
Valvoline Synpower 20w50 605 689 1786 SM 03/07 SYN Blackstone 
Valvoline VR1 20w50 1085 1293 17 2242 SL 11/05 DINO Staveley 
Valvoline VR-1 NSL 20w50 835 976 10 819 SL 03/07 DINO Blackstone 
Valvoline VR-1 NSL 20w50 842 962 11 838 SL 03/07 SYN Blackstone 
Bardahl No Leak/Smoke 53 4 0 11/05 O/A Staveley 
Boron Motor Silk 116 0 05/06 O/A Staveley 
CD-2 Maxx Detergent 1 7 2416 11/05 O/A Staveley 
CMW Racing Concentrate 2292 1147 358 06/06 O/A Staveley 
GM Cam Lifter Prelube 5710 5876 29004 01/07 O/A Blackstone 
GM EOS Assembly Lube 5762 6221 8265 01/07 O/A Blackstone 
Lucas Oil Stabilizer 36 13 0 01/07 O/A Staveley 
Power Service Oil Extender 3567 4945 6394 11/05 O/A Staveley 
Schaeffer Micron Moly 110 5 0 08/06 O/A Staveley 
STP Blue 1704 2436 88 11/05 O/A Staveley 
STP Red 2115 3932 901 11/05 O/A Staveley 
Valvoline Max Life Protect 537 768 22 3871 11/05 O/A Staveley 
Valvoline Synpower 356 551 650 11/05 O/A Staveley 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here are the running averages for all the oils tested thusfar: 
API P(ppm)Zn(ppm)B(ppm)Mo(ppm)Ca(ppm)Mg(ppm)Na(ppm)Tot al Detergents 
SE-SJ 1301 1280 151 357 1936 293 214 2443 
CI-4 1150 1374 83 80 2642 199 2840 
SL 994 1182 133 273 2347 109 22 2479 
CJ-4 819 1014 26 2075 7 2082 
SM 770 939 127 122 2135 13 139 2287


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## slipknot91 (Mar 16, 2010)

Good find. 

Looks like the Mobile I said earlier has a good zinc content. 

I have ran Rottella in some vehicles and had great results as well. Mainly just as break in oil for the cam. The Rotella had an even higher zinc content. It gets a bad name because its sold at wally world but it is good conventional oil if thats the way you want to go. You can ask alot of drag racers at the track what kind of oil they use, thinking they will all say Royal Purple and all that other oil that claims major gains in horsepower, but most guys run off the wal mart shelf, fly by night part store, conventional oils with great results.

But the question you want answered is not what oil, just what viscosity and that just depends on how and when you will drive it. I dont know if you are using a windage tray or crank scraper, but if you plan to turn this thing to the moon, a high viscous oil will not do well unless you keep the oil off of the crank. If you are cruising and just busting a kids bubble on a Honda at a stop light from time to time, then the minimum is 10w40 as far as Im concerned.


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## NYH1 (Mar 17, 2010)

When using flat tappet camshafts (hydraulic or mechanical/solid) you need to use an oil with at least 1200 PPM zinc (ZDDP) in it. Or use some type of zinc (ZDDP) oil additive. Newer engines and/or engines with roller camshafts (hydraulic or mechanical/solid) don't have to worry about zinc (ZDDP) levels. 

The Amsoil 10W-40 (AMO) oil has 1400 PPM zinc (ZDDP) in it. I'm not sure how much their 5W-30 (HDD) oil has in it. I'll have to call them.

And I'm a little more then just "an assembler", maybe not quite a manufacture, but an assembler does just that...assembles. An assembler doesn't hand fit parts! 

slipknot91, I'm not going to turn the motor more then 6000 RPM's as posted in my first post.


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## indiansprings (Mar 17, 2010)

In recent years have stayed with a blended 5-30, dino-syn oil. Used to run Mobil 1 in everything that was gas and Rotella 15-40 in all the AG applications. Watched a demo at a Agriculture show, the blends pick up and lift themselves up the gears at start up, even at idle speed were pure synthetics don't appear too at least to my eye. Based on what I observed it seems like the blends might help dry start up's especially on a performance motor. There is a post on here today that showed a similar demonstration titled, Do you use Lucas, with a very informative link, after watching it, I don't think I'll ever use Lucas additive again, but have only use it in high hour AG applications, but never again.
We just run Quaker State blended as there is no Amsoil dealer close that we know of. My son's little DZ-302 chevy has held up well, and I'll guarantee you he stresses the hell out of it on a regular basis.lol


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## kemo (Jul 18, 2010)

I use Mobil1 5W-30... I get it half the price that I used to get Amsoil's 5W-30. Not a fan of it... I'd expect double the mileage and protection from Amsoil compared to what I pay for now.


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## Den69RS96 (Jul 22, 2010)

Well if your bearing clearances are on the tight side I'd go with the 5w-30. If they are in the middle or high side, go with a 10w-30 or 10W-40. I used the comp cams break in lube with shell rotella 15w-40 to break my cam in. I'd use a reg dino oil to break the engine in and seat the rings. once the rings are seated switch over to the amsoil.


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## Joe46 (Aug 30, 2010)

I agree with the above poster. I'm also an Amsoil dealer. I would break it in on Dino oil, then switch to the 10-40 Amsoil. Comparing apples to oranges here, but I ran my Ford PSD on Delo400 before I switched to 15-40 Amsoil at 16K.


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## billyjoejr (Aug 30, 2010)

Here is a good read on oil.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=83&Itemid=92

be sure to click next chapter at bottom of page


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## NWCS (Sep 2, 2010)

i use 20-50 in my Boss 351 clone. putting out 400hp (engine HP, not to the tires) 10:1 compression. over 200K miles and she still smokes the tires in my 77 F150 4x4. 50psi hot idle oil pressure. i have a few things to fix on the engine but she is still goin strong! if im showing off she gets revved to 5K before i shift.

engine:
71 mustang 351C block
Boss 351 4V intake
closed chamber 4V heads
sat night special type cam (no idea what spec)
high pressure oil pump


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## Nick359 (Oct 10, 2010)

Marine oils, so I have been told, still have higher zinc content. 

I ran 10/30 Castrol GTX in my 11.5 to 1 383 chev in my Toyota. It is an all roller engine. I had a machine shop assemble the bottom end. It is currently sitting on an engine stand in my garage until I figure out why there is metal in the oil. It had one hour break in time. The fist attempt of this engine ended in a spun rod bearing (assembled by a different shop). 

I have a 350 in it now. I will run 10/30 marine oil in the 350 engine with the flat tappet. I should have it running soon. It is in the truck, but I have to plumb and wire it. I have to finish splitting my wood pile first. 

I hope I can learn a little here. I am tired of swapping engines in this truck.


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## no tree to big (Nov 27, 2010)

this is an old post but for future readers I figure I'd throw this out there 

oil weight cant just be determined by the engines intended use/time of year I can build three motors using all the same components except the bearings. If I had one set of bearings -.001, one set std. and one set +.001 resulting in say .0015/.0025/.0035 of clearance on the mains and rods and each one of those motors will use a different weight oil to maintain the same oil pressure. so first question is what are your bearing clearances? 

the tight side of clearance will like a 5w30 in the winter 10w30 in the summer while the loose bearings would require at least a 10w40 maybe stepping up to 20w50

just for reference I have a 383 LT1 in my 94' camaro fully forged rotating assembly big cam ported heads...I turn it to about 6500 rpm at the moment (needs better tuning) the mains are .0025 on 1 thru 4 .0035 on #5 all rods are at .0025 and I have found that 10w40 gives me my best results so far, hot idle is ~35 anything over 1100rpm is 55+. during start up when its cold(less then 40) it sounds like it needs thinner oil the valve train is very loud, when its over 40 it pegs the gauge at 80 until it gets up to temp. and keeps everything fairly quiet. I have tried 5w30 and 10w30 and the hot pressures were about the same when the motor was reved up but sitting at 800 rpm it was only producing ~20 which was unacceptable to me for a brand new motor so I stepped it up a weight to accommodate the looser bearings.


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## olyman (Nov 30, 2010)

Nick359 said:


> Marine oils, so I have been told, still have higher zinc content.
> 
> I ran 10/30 Castrol GTX in my 11.5 to 1 383 chev in my Toyota. It is an all roller engine. I had a machine shop assemble the bottom end. It is currently sitting on an engine stand in my garage until I figure out why there is metal in the oil. It had one hour break in time. The fist attempt of this engine ended in a spun rod bearing (assembled by a different shop).
> 
> ...


guy by the name of gary--used to frequent the forum--he built a warmed over 350--and it near destroyed itself in less than 40 miles!!! cause??? not near enough zddp in the oil for break in--flat tappet engine!!


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## Nick359 (Dec 1, 2010)

The 383 is an all roller engine. 

The first shop told me they had to assemble it to have a warranty. They told me to run 10W30. It only had 20 psi at an idle. They said run 20W50. It showed better pressure, I can't remember exactly, but oil pressure would drop to 0 in the high rpm ranges. 

They told me to put an oil accumulator on it. I did, same problem. Then I changed the oil pump and the same thing. 

I took it apart and everything looked great except one rod bearing. I showed them the problem. "We don't warranty race engines" was the response I got. We exchanged words and I never went back. 

I took it to a new shop. They were getting it cleaned up. Work sent me away for a few months, so I had them assemble the bottom end. 

After one hour of run time, there is a ton of metal in the oil. I think I will get into the engine over the winter and do everything myself.


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## chowdozer (Dec 2, 2010)

Nick359 said:


> The 383 is an all roller engine.
> 
> The first shop told me they had to assemble it to have a warranty. They told me to run 10W30. It only had 20 psi at an idle. They said run 20W50. It showed better pressure, I can't remember exactly, but oil pressure would drop to 0 in the high rpm ranges.
> 
> ...



20 psi at an idle is ok. Rule of thumb is 10 psi/1000 rpm. 0 psi at higher rpm is not good. Accumulators are great but it's not going to help you. 

There isn't much to go wrong on a small block oiling system. You're running the pan dry. Are you running a high volume pump? Winding it up before it's warm? How high are you spinning?

These are things I would do. Port the rear main oil passage and match the ports. Put a deep sump pan on if it will fit and a long pickup. Set the height on your pickup and weld it in place or buy the Moroso pickup that has a bracket off the oil pump bolt to hold the pickup. You got a roller top end, so you can restrict oil up there and keep a couple quarts out of the rocker boxes. Little Chevys need oil to the top end to keep the ball and stud rockers cool. You don't need all that oil. Port and smooth the drainback holes too. Blueprint your oil pump. Pull all the oil plugs and run a piece of welding wire through all the oil passages and feel for obstructions. Get some of those super magnets and put them wherever oil is draining back. Magnets are your best defense against oil pump problems farther down the road. Steel kills oil pumps, aluminum and bronze not so much. It's not necessary but I always pressure balance the oil pump and then try it out with an electric drill (a big drill) in a bucket of oil. I like to know the pressure it goes into bypass. If you want to raise the bypass pressure, a #10 washer behind the bypass spring is worth about 5 psi. Yeah, I've blown a few oil filters off when I was young. 6 quarts of oil on the ground is a shame.


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## Nick359 (Dec 2, 2010)

All of the oil ports in the pump and rear main are matched and the drainbacks have been ported.

It has a high volume pump and I turn 6500 rpms. 

I put the accumulator on bc I have a stock pan and can't fit deep pan.

I never ran it hard the second time it was built, so I don't know if it still dropping pressure at higher rpms. 

I have the engine on a stand in the garage. I am going to tear it down this winter and do everything myself. If the same rod is bad, there is probably something going on in the block. 

The truck weighs 3800 without me in it. I ran [email protected] at 5k feet and over 100 degrees. The plan is to sell the truck with the 350 and put the engine in a car or my boat.


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## chowdozer (Dec 2, 2010)

Nick359 said:


> All of the oil ports in the pump and rear main are matched and the drainbacks have been ported.
> 
> It has a high volume pump and I turn 6500 rpms.
> 
> ...



A stock pump will do you fine to 6500 rpm if you restrict oil to the top end. Which rod went bad? Number 1 and 2 rod journals will be the first one's to starve for oil. 

Not sure why you can't fit a deep sump pan, a truck should have plenty of room unless you're dragging the frame rails. If you can't fit a deep sump pan, get your welder out and make some kickouts on the pan you have.

At 6500 rpm you have a lot of airborne oil too. Consider a windage tray minimum and maybe a crank wiper. 

What height did the shop set the oil pickup too? Should be 1/4-3/8". To measure it, put a piece of clay in the oil pan, throw a piece of cellophane over it and bolt it on. Unbolt the pan and measure the thickness of the clay.


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## Nick359 (Dec 3, 2010)

The #3 rod went bad. 

I put a crank scraper in it and the block was studded for a windage tray. 

I put the pan on and verified the pickup height at 3/8" with clay. 

The first shop was jerking me around, so I am not ruling out improper assembly. They put more effort into avoiding the problem than fixing it. I should have known better, but I listened to them. I am just build cars for fun, and they do it professionally. I was afraid to assemble it, because I didn't know how to check all the clearances for the longer stroke. 

The second shop told me to be wary of the longevity of the 383. He said I should build a 400. Since I had a lot of money in the engine already, we decided to redo the 383. 

The engine is out and I am off on Sunday. I will pull the pan and see what is going on in there.


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