# Lightweight chainsaw recommendation



## Itsme7 (Sep 17, 2012)

Hey everyone. 

Looking to add another saw to the stable, something light for limbing and a little easier on the arms. I currently only own a Husqy 372xp, which can be on the heavy side for limbing. I was considering possibly a tophandle saw, because theyre in the 7lb range which would be about 1/2 the weight of my 372 lol. What are some recommendations? 

Thanks!


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## SawTroll (Sep 17, 2012)

Itsme7 said:


> Hey everyone.
> 
> Looking to add another saw to the stable, something light for limbing and a little easier on the arms. I currently only own a Husqy 372xp, which can be on the heavy side for limbing. I was considering possibly a tophandle saw, because theyre in the 7lb range which would be about 1/2 the weight of my 372 lol. What are some recommendations?
> 
> Thanks!



346xp and 550xp are perfect limbing saws, there is no good reason to considering anything smaller. :msp_biggrin:


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## alderman (Sep 17, 2012)

If you are open to using a 14"-16" bar then a smaller saw will come in handy. I didn't think I'd ever use it much when I bought my first Shindaiwa 360 but these little saws come in handy.
I'm not saying you have to go with Shindaiwa but just throwing this out to let you know there is a place for the smaller saws.

If you want anything longer than 16" for a bar, you'll have to go with a bigger (heavier) saw.

Personally I'd stay away from the top handle if you are planning to limb on downed timber.


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## Itsme7 (Sep 17, 2012)

12-16" bar would be fine, i mainly want to use it for light cutting, limbing, ect (i have the 372xp with a 20 and a 24" bar for bigger stuff) Ive used the 372 several times limbing, and after several hours of cutting, the 14-15 lb saw can get heavy lol. Something sub 10 lb would be nice, as that would be a significant lesser amount of weight. If i need to cut anything more than 10-12" thick, id end up using the 372 anyways.


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## TonyRumore (Sep 17, 2012)

MS200 Rear Handle


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## D&B Mack (Sep 17, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> 346xp and 550xp are perfect limbing saws, there is no good reason to considering anything smaller. :msp_biggrin:



:agree2:

If you want to stick with Husky... :msp_wink:

Can't beat this option if your trees are horizontal. If you are cutting limbs off of standing trees, say opening trails, then you may want to consider a top handle.


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## TK (Sep 17, 2012)

I wouldn't recommend a top handle unless you are holding the saw at an upward angle. Cutting lower gets old real fast IMO with a top handle. 346/550 is the go to for me.


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## mortenh (Sep 17, 2012)

TonyRumore said:


> MS200 Rear Handle



+1

MS200 with a 12" bar is a Fantastic light weight saw for limbing.

Alternatively, the cheaper (and even lighter) MS 192 - but it will not last nearly as long.


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## jus2fat (Sep 17, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> 346xp and 550xp are perfect limbing saws, there is no good reason to considering anything smaller. :msp_biggrin:


SawTroll is "dead-on" on this...(imho)...you just need a quality 50cc saw that can pull a 16" - 18" bar. Minimum 'bend-over'....

And it's a good decent sized saw that will do other tasks as well...like 'back-up' saw or to free a stuck bar.

The top-handles are indeed light...but 12" and 14" is what they pull best...even 16" is pushing it..!!

EDIT: And as TK said above...cutting 'low'..gets old really fast..!! Waist high is fine - knee high..where's the ibuprofen..?? 

J2F


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## zogger (Sep 17, 2012)

*For the money?*

Used poulan s25cva. Little heavier then what you want, but under 10 lbs and PLENTY of power for a small saw, real reliable, good on fuel, oils good, easy to work on, find 'em all over heck on CL for like 50 bucks or something. Take advantage of used plastic poulan pricing memes and get a good old merikan pro saw.


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## sunfish (Sep 17, 2012)

*346xp *


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## SawTroll (Sep 17, 2012)

D&B Mack said:


> :agree2:
> 
> If you want to stick with Husky... :msp_wink:
> 
> Can't beat this option if your trees are horizontal. If you are cutting limbs off of standing trees, say opening trails, then you may want to consider a top handle.



Who wouldn't these days? :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


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## dboyd351 (Sep 17, 2012)

zogger said:


> Used poulan s25cva. Little heavier then what you want, but under 10 lbs and PLENTY of power for a small saw, real reliable, good on fuel, oils good, easy to work on, find 'em all over heck on CL for like 50 bucks or something. Take advantage of used plastic poulan pricing memes and get a good old merikan pro saw.



I'll second this any day. Where else can you get a metal bodied American made saw that lasts for decades and costs little more than a bar and chain?
And if it needs a new bar and chain BAILEY'S has a 16 inch bar and chain combo at $16 right now. Can't beat that with a stick!!!:smile2:


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## KenJax Tree (Sep 17, 2012)

Its hard to beat a 346xp and 372xp 2 saw combo you can run from 14"-28" you can conquer the world:msp_thumbsup:


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## SawTroll (Sep 17, 2012)

TK said:


> I wouldn't recommend a top handle unless you are holding the saw at an upward angle. Cutting lower gets old real fast IMO with a top handle. 346/550 is the go to for me.



Yep, a smaller limbing saw will be a *slow* limbing saw. I like to run the 346xp with an 8-pin and 21LP(X) and a 16" bar for limbing.


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## cheeves (Sep 17, 2012)

My wife bought a refurbished 445 Husky and I bought a 16" bar and chisel chain for it. It is a fine lightweight saw that will cut firewood up to a foot just fine. I've cut plenty of firewood with it this season.


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## jus2fat (Sep 17, 2012)

cheeves said:


> My wife bought a refurbished 445 Husky and I bought a 16" bar and chisel chain for it. It is a fine lightweight saw that will cut firewood up to a foot just fine. I've cut plenty of firewood with it this season.


Very good choice..!! - Hope the saw continues to work well for you..!!

(I've read that a re-furbished Husky 435 is also a very good running saw...and is a steal on eBay..!!)

$166.99 and free shipping with 30 $$-back guarantee - - (NO affiliation with the 435's on eBay..!!) 

J2F


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## cheeves (Sep 17, 2012)

jus2fat said:


> Very good choice..!! - Hope the saw continues to work well for you..!!
> 
> (I've read that a re-furbished Husky 435 is also a very good running saw...and is a steal on eBay..!!)
> 
> J2F


I've run my friends and I can tell you the power of that little saw will surprise you. Hal had his ported by Stumpy.


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## SawTroll (Sep 17, 2012)

cheeves said:


> My wife bought a refurbished 445 Husky and I bought a 16" bar and chisel chain for it. It is a fine lightweight saw that will cut firewood up to a foot just fine. I've cut plenty of firewood with it this season.



That's a saw that isn't really light for the power, and it is a plastic cased clamshell type design - but it has a good reputation, for what it is.


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## SCHallenger (Sep 17, 2012)

*Lightweight saw*



SawTroll said:


> 346xp and 550xp are perfect limbing saws, there is no good reason to considering anything smaller. :msp_biggrin:



You wouldn,t suggest 338XP or 339? I have the Jonsered 2135 (with the 39cc powerplant), & there is nothing slow about it in 4-7in wood.


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## SawTroll (Sep 17, 2012)

jus2fat said:


> Very good choice..!! - Hope the saw continues to work well for you..!!
> 
> (I've read that a re-furbished Husky 435 is also a very good running saw...and is a steal on eBay..!!)
> 
> ...



Not suitable as a fast limbing saw though, simply not enough performance!

It is a bad idea to think about really weak saws as limbing saws, unless the trees are saplings that need to be thinned.


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## nmurph (Sep 17, 2012)

346 with a MM...your 372 will sit a lot!


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## jus2fat (Sep 17, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> Not suitable as a fast limbing saw though, simply not enough performance!
> 
> It is a bad idea to think about really weak saws as limbing saws, unless the trees are saplings that need to be thinned.





SawTroll said:


> Not suitable as a fast limbing saw though, simply not enough performance!
> 
> It is a bad idea to think about really weak saws as limbing saws, unless the trees are saplings that need to be thinned.


Yes - and as I said above I would recommend a 50cc for several reasons..longer bar and as a back-up saw...etc.

Was just sayin'..I'd buy a re-furbished Husky 435 over say a...Stihl 170/171...in the same price range of $170-$180..!!

The Husky has waay more power and I won't bother checking weights..as they're both fairly light-weight small saws.

But then...perhaps you would prefer the Stihl MS170/171..?? - :msp_lol::msp_lol::msp_lol: - Just messin' with ya..!!

J2F


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## Rokon (Sep 17, 2012)

The 346xp is an awesome 'do just about everything' saw. But I'm too poor for one of these saws, and they don't go cheap used.

That said, I have a husky 340 with a 16" bar. I love that little saw. Also, every time I loan it to a fellow wood cutter I can't get it back till the end of the day. 

Best 60.00 I ever spent!!


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## Sabertooth (Sep 18, 2012)

346 is a crowd fav. I like the he Dolmar 5100/05 more though. 

The 346 is more trigger happy than the 5100/05, but I think the 5105 has better torque. 

Echo makes a 50 cc saw by the name of CS500p. Lightest 50 cc saw you can probably get ( 10 pounds) and I hear its also good.


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## D&B Mack (Sep 18, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> Who wouldn't these days? :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:



Probably these guys:



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## rdtreewalker (Sep 18, 2012)

Imo you can not beat a pole saw for limbing a down tree. They run a little slower then a regular saw but go much faster due to the fact that you can stand in one spot and are not fighting the brush. Plus they add some safety to the process.


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## D&B Mack (Sep 18, 2012)

rdtreewalker said:


> Imo you can not beat a pole saw for limbing a down tree. They run a little slower then a regular saw but go much faster due to the fact that you can stand in one spot and are not fighting the brush. Plus they add some safety to the process.



Maybe if it is honey locust or a christmas tree. Otherwise, I will take a 261/346/550 up against any pole pruner.


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## SawTroll (Sep 18, 2012)

Sabertooth said:


> ......
> 
> Echo makes a 50 cc saw by the name of CS500p. Lightest 50 cc saw you can probably get ( 10 pounds) and I hear its also good.



Well, the specs I found in the UK is 11 lbs, and only 2.1 kW (2.9 hp)......:msp_rolleyes:


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## tbow388 (Sep 18, 2012)

*Harbor Frieght*

Harbor Freight sells a pretty nifty electric one!!!!:jester::jester:

I love my stihl 021. Nice and light.


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## sunfish (Sep 18, 2012)

*346XP*


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## chipper1 (Sep 16, 2016)

Itsme7 said:


> Hey everyone.
> 
> Looking to add another saw to the stable, something light for limbing and a little easier on the arms. I currently only own a Husqy 372xp, which can be on the heavy side for limbing. I was considering possibly a tophandle saw, because theyre in the 7lb range which would be about 1/2 the weight of my 372 lol. What are some recommendations?
> 
> Thanks!


Dragging this back from the dead.
Yrs later what did you end up going with.
Anyone else have a preference, except @sunfish you already voted twice.
Looking at something that will run a 14" bar under 10lbs.
I do have a ms200 rear handle and enjoy it, but looking for other options under 10lb's, and the 346 doesn't qualify for this task.


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## 7sleeper (Sep 16, 2016)

If you want Husqvarna, I would choose the 543xp. Although the saw needs over a dozen refills to really break in and present it's real potential.

If you want Stihl, I would choose the 541.

I have very good experience with Hitachi/Tanaka equipment. The CS40EA model would be an option.

If you want Dolmar, I would choose the PS35.Or wait for the 352.

Personally I am a fan of japanese products (543, CS40EA, 352). 

7


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## Full Chisel (Sep 16, 2016)

I kind of like the MS171...Stihl made a lot of good improvements over the MS170 with that one. Adjustable carb, outboard chain adjuster, flippy caps(not a fan but whatever), spring AV, better air filter and strato engine. The only downfall that I see with it is the single bar stud, but that isn't a deal breaker for a small saw, IMO.

346xp is still the right answer, though.


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## Chainsaw10 (Sep 16, 2016)

Ultimate lightweight. Rear handle ms150. About 7 lbs. 
open the muffler up a bit and it's a little powerhouse.


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## chipper1 (Sep 16, 2016)

7sleeper said:


> If you want Husqvarna, I would choose the 543xp. Although the saw needs over a dozen refills to really break in and present it's real potential.
> 
> If you want Stihl, I would choose the 541.
> 
> ...


Ok.
No brand preferences really.


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## chipper1 (Sep 16, 2016)

Full Chisel said:


> I kind of like the MS171...Stihl made a lot of good improvements over the MS170 with that one. Adjustable carb, outboard chain adjuster, flippy caps(not a fan but whatever), spring AV, better air filter and strato engine. The only downfall that I see with it is the single bar stud, but that isn't a deal breaker for a small saw, IMO.
> 
> 346xp is still the right answer, though.


Something like this.
Really wish I could just throw that bar and chain on the 2145, that would be fun.

So I already have the 346 in all its various forms and colors. It still doesn't stay under 10lbs.


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## Full Chisel (Sep 16, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> Something like this.View attachment 525888
> Really wish I could just throw that bar and chain on the 2145, that would be fun.
> 
> So I already have the 346 in all its various forms and colors. It still doesn't stay under 10lbs.



I can not stand the MS170. There is something about the way it sounds and feels that just really puts me off. It just feels like it's going to explode in your hands. The MS171 is way smoother and better quality.


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## 7sleeper (Sep 16, 2016)

Personally I find that small Stihl saws offer too little for the money. 

7


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## chipper1 (Sep 16, 2016)

Chainsaw10 said:


> Ultimate lightweight. Rear handle ms150. About 7 lbs.
> open the muffler up a bit and it's a little powerhouse.


I thought the 192/3 was 7lbs for the powerhead. I almost bought a 193 rear handle last weekend, brand new with a 12" bar.
I have considered one. It looks like an accessory, maybe like a big key chain, or a necklace. Could you put that bad boy on a rope around you neck, just for giggles, c'mon it's the weekend.

I don't carve, do you.
I would have to break that out for thanksgiving though. You would just need to use veggie oil.


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## chipper1 (Sep 16, 2016)

Full Chisel said:


> I can not stand the MS170. There is something about the way it sounds and feels that just really puts me off. It just feels like it's going to explode in your hands. The MS171 is way smoother and better quality.


I have seen a lot of that series of the stihls with crank seal problems, is the 171 prone to those.
I was running this one the other day in some cherry and it cut good for the power/weight with the B&C setup. I did notice the trigger getting hung up a bit when making undercuts with to much pressure. It certainly doesn't have the feel of a pre saw, but it isn't bad for the cost vs performance, long-term I think I'd rather pay a bit more up front. I'll have to get my hands on a 171 and try it out. 
Anyone want to buy a 170, or trade for a 171 lol.


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## Chainsaw10 (Sep 16, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> I thought the 192/3 was 7lbs for the powerhead. I almost bought a 193 rear handle last weekend, brand new with a 12" bar.
> I have considered one. It looks like an accessory, maybe like a big key chain, or a necklace. Could you put that bad boy on a rope around you neck, just for giggles, c'mon it's the weekend.
> 
> I don't carve, do you.
> I would have to break that out for thanksgiving though. You would just need to use veggie oil.


 
This saw is 6 lbs for the power head alone. About 7 with bar and chain. Definitely can use it as a keychain.

I definitely see a 193 rear handle in my future too


I carve long hours every day. ....and my shoulder is effed-up....so these little lightweight saws make my life much easier. They are worth every penny to me.


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## chipper1 (Sep 16, 2016)

7sleeper said:


> Personally I find that small Stihl saws offer too little for the money.
> 
> 7


I like this one, but they do coast a good bit of change, but normally you get what you pay for.
I'm just looking to try others and to have other saws to recommend.


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## Chainsaw10 (Sep 16, 2016)

You dont ALWAYS get what you pay for. I bought a ms201 a couple years ago and it was a turd. I recently got rid of it on eBay.


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## chipper1 (Sep 16, 2016)

Chainsaw10 said:


> This saw is 6 lbs for the power head alone. About 7 with bar and chain. Definitely can use it as a keychain.
> 
> I definitely see a 193 rear handle in my future too
> 
> ...


There was one for sale a while back that had the muffler done and was ready to go. Seems when it's go time for a little saw it's been no time for me lol.
That is so light it's unreal. With a short bar you could put it in your lower pants pocket. I think echo has one that is very close, but it's not available here.
I've used the 192t enough to know that when used for its intended purpose it does a good job. I think the only reason I would run any longer bar on one would be for reach, but not to cut anything 12"+.
Is the 150 able to do any bore/plunge cuts, I'm sure you use them in your carving.


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## Full Chisel (Sep 16, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> I have seen a lot of that series of the stihls with crank seal problems, is the 171 prone to those.
> I was running this one the other day in some cherry and it cut good for the power/weight with the B&C setup. I did notice the trigger getting hung up a bit when making undercuts with to much pressure. It certainly doesn't have the feel of a pre saw, but it isn't bad for the cost vs performance, long-term I think I'd rather pay a bit more up front. I'll have to get my hands on a 171 and try it out.
> Anyone want to buy a 170, or trade for a 171 lol.



I'm not sure about the crank seals, but I have not heard or seen any issues yet.


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## Full Chisel (Sep 16, 2016)

Chainsaw10 said:


> You dont ALWAYS get what you pay for. I bought a ms201 a couple years ago and it was a turd. I recently got rid of it on eBay.



The earlier, non-Mtronic 201Ts were pretty bad...low on power and poor throttle response. The newer Mtronic ones are great though.


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## chipper1 (Sep 16, 2016)

Full Chisel said:


> The earlier, non-Mtronic 201Ts were pretty bad...low on power and poor throttle response. The newer Mtronic ones are great though.


My understanding there was a timing issue which is pretty easy to fix. That and a muffler mod and they were right where they should be. This is based on reading and not mu personal experience as I've never owned or ran one.


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## Full Chisel (Sep 16, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> My understanding there was a timing issue which is pretty easy to fix. That and a muffler mod and they were right where they should be. This is based on reading and not mu personal experience as I've never owned or ran one.



I believe you are right. There was a fix kit that included an upgraded flywheel. And I know Brad Snelling was waking them up with a timing advance and muffler mod.


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## chipper1 (Sep 16, 2016)

Chainsaw10 said:


> You dont ALWAYS get what you pay for. I bought a ms201 a couple years ago and it was a turd. I recently got rid of it on eBay.


I didn't see this earlier. That was why I said normally also, just as you are saying always lol. That's one of the main reasons I brought this thread back to life is so we can have a discussion on how these lightweights have performed. I don't like to be the beta version guy, I want to know it's trustworthy before I buy it.


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## Chainsaw10 (Sep 16, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> There was one for sale a while back that had the muffler done and was ready to go. Seems when it's go time for a little saw it's been no time for me lol.
> That is so light it's unreal. With a short bar you could put it in your lower pants pocket. I think echo has one that is very close, but it's not available here.
> I've used the 192t enough to know that when used for its intended purpose it does a good job. I think the only reason I would run any longer bar on one would be for reach, but not to cut anything 12"+.
> Is the 150 able to do any bore/plunge cuts, I'm sure you use them in your carving.


 
The 150 plunges with ease, even in very hard wood....so does any saw that you use the mini 1/4" .043 chain on. I've got two ms150's. I have 8", 10", and 12" bars for them. It's really tiny and funny lookin with the 8"


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## chipper1 (Sep 16, 2016)

Chainsaw10 said:


> The 150 plunges with ease, even in very hard wood....so does any saw that you use the mini 1/4" .043 chain on. I've got two ms150's. I have 8", 10", and 12" bars for them. It's really tiny and funny lookin with the 8"


I've heard a few talk bad about the .043 chain for working with. Do you know of any problems with it. Is that a picco chain, or a .250 chain, sorry I'm not into all the carving lingo/setups. I did notice all your stuff in the background of the picture. Do you hang it on the little s hook above the bench.


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## Chainsaw10 (Sep 16, 2016)

If someone is badmouthing this chain they are using it for the wrong purpose. It's the best chain for small saws.....it'll let a little ms150 cut with the speed of your ms200. It is 1/4"(.250) pitch, but thinner than standard 1/4" and with tiny little teeth.. It zips through wood and makes the smoothest cuts you've ever seen. With this chain you don't need tons of power to cut quickly. I even use it on ms250's. If you tried it on your ms200 you'd never go back to the 3/8" lo pro(that I guess you're running?) if you're doing 12" and under work. The chain is for cuts 12" and under really.....and not for cutting dirty wood. Use it for carving, climbing work, limbing, pruning.......nothing is better.


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## chipper1 (Sep 16, 2016)

Chainsaw10 said:


> If someone is badmouthing this chain they are using it for the wrong purpose. It's the best chain for small saws.....it'll let a little ms150 cut with the speed of your ms200. It is 1/4"(.250) pitch, but thinner than standard 1/4" and with tiny little teeth.. It zips through wood and makes the smoothest cuts you've ever seen. With this chain you don't need tons of power to cut quickly. I even use it on ms250's. If you tried it on your ms200 you'd never go back to the 3/8" lo pro(that I guess you're running?) if you're doing 12" and under work. The chain is for cuts 12" and under really.....and not for cutting dirty wood. Use it for carving, climbing work, limbing, pruning.......nothing is better.


I have the .050 picco on the 200 and it does a great job. The comments made were in regards to the picco. 043.
Sounds like the .250x .043 is working great then. Do a lot of guys into carving run that.
It's funny how this year I wanted to learn about chain/sharpening, the learning has been coming from every angle lol. Might just be that I'm more ready for the learning than in the past as well .


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## Chainsaw10 (Sep 16, 2016)

I think a lot of carvers don't experiment with bar/saw/chain combos as much as I do. A lot of them stick with crappy 1/4" .050 chain(Oregon, Carlton, Woodland Pro). Ive come across some who use it though. I use 3/8" Picco Super on some saws too(I have a 50ft spool of it)but its not nearly as smooth or fast as 1/4"(.250) .043., on small saws.


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## chipper1 (Sep 16, 2016)

Chainsaw10 said:


> I think a lot of carvers don't experiment with bar/saw/chain combos as much as I do. A lot of them stick with crappy 1/4" .050 chain(Oregon, Carlton, Woodland Pro). Ive come across some who use it though. I use 3/8" Picco Super on some saws too(I have a 50ft spool of it)but its not nearly as smooth or fast as 1/4"(.250) .043., on small saws.


Have you used it at all cutting firewood. 
How hard are the bars and that to get.


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## CoreyB (Sep 16, 2016)

I used a 192 rear handle for a year and really liked it. I cut tons of wood with it. I used it to even fell 18" white oak once. That thing just cut right along. I ended up trading it in on a Dolmar 421. I felt the 192 was not durable (never had one problem) for the tasks I was using it for. If I could have afforded it is would have kept it. In fact I will probably replace it with an echo 361p. That is also a neat little rear handle saw. There are lots of neat little saws that I would like to play with.


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## chipper1 (Sep 16, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> I used a 192 rear handle for a year and really liked it. I cut tons of wood with it. I used it to even fell 18" white oak once. That thing just cut right along. I ended up trading it in on a Dolmar 421. I felt the 192 was not durable (never had one problem) for the tasks I was using it for. If I could have afforded it is would have kept it. In fact I will probably replace it with an echo 361p. That is also a neat little rear handle saw. There are lots of neat little saws that I would like to play with.


What bar did you run on the 192 and what chain size.
Big weight difference between the 421 and the 192. There was the 421 with mm that was sold here also with some extra chains and was right here in Michigan, it was like new, I had the cash for that one, but didn't pull the trigger, can't remember why, probably buying a bigger saw for the same price lol.


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## CoreyB (Sep 16, 2016)

I ran 3/8 lp both .043 and .050 the .043 worked better. 

the 421 I'd heavier and larger. But feels a lot sturdier.


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## CoreyB (Sep 16, 2016)

Oh Ya 14" bar. Really like that size


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## chipper1 (Sep 16, 2016)

CoreyB said:


> I ran 3/8 lp both .043 and .050 the .043 worked better.
> 
> the 421 I'd heavier and larger. But feels a lot sturdier.



Nice videos man.
One nice thing about the 6100, you don't need to bend over as much. I prefer the 18" bar for ground work, but when I run an 18 even on a 50cc saw I want to cut 20" wood with it because I can lol.
What length bar is that on the 421.


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## Full Chisel (Sep 16, 2016)

The .043 chain has much smaller cutters and because of that the lifespan is greatly reduced over .050. The .050 gauge also opens up a lot more chain options, like Stihl PS or Oregon VXL which are much more aggressive.


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## chipper1 (Sep 16, 2016)

I'm not sure how long my ms200 rear handle would take to run through there, but it's not much longer I wouldn't think.
I've limbed some trees out after dropping them just because there was fuel in the saw and it was in my hands and quicker than grabbing a smaller saw. I think it works the same way going from a small saw to a large one. To a certain point I might just as well cut til it's out of fuel if I'm going to have to fuel the larher saw, or sharpen a chain. Sometimes there are factors that will slow you down much more than a saw that is a couple seconds slower. If I'm totally exhausted from running a larger saw, I may just call it a day if I dont feel good about continuing. Some days grabbing the smaller saw a little earlier on helps me to cut a little longer than I would have and I feel safer.
Yes, I said all that, it's ok as it wouldn't be the first time my mancard was taken lol.


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## chipper1 (Sep 16, 2016)

Full Chisel said:


> The .043 chain has much smaller cutters and because of that the lifespan is greatly reduced over .050. The .050 gauge also opens up a lot more chain options, like Stihl PS or Oregon VXL which are much more aggressive.


That's one of the things I don't like about 325 chain. I would rather just run the LP picco if I'm downsizing from .375.


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## 7sleeper (Sep 17, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> I like this one, but they do coast a good bit of change, but normally you get what you pay for.


And there we disagree. I see it that you have a major price increase for one of the best saws on the market, but for a major price reduction you get a slightly less powerful package from many other manufacturers.

7


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## Chainsaw10 (Sep 17, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> Have you used it at all cutting firewood.
> How hard are the bars and that to get.


 It's not really a firewood saw, unless you're cutting up small diameter stuff. Carving, trimming, limbing, pruning(anywhere you want precision and you have to work long hours on smaller tasks without fatigue). Why use a heavy saw on time consuming jobs when you don't have to. 
I have several stihl dealers within 45 minutes of me that stock the bars and chains. But any Stihl dealer can probably get them quickly if you ask.


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## Chris-PA (Sep 17, 2016)

Full Chisel said:


> The .043 chain has much smaller cutters and because of that the lifespan is greatly reduced over .050.


Using Oregon 3/8lo pro in both 0.043" and 0.050", this has not been my experience. And there is no reason for 0.043" to wear any faster than 0.050", as it is taking a smaller cut - the only thing that would cause more load per running length of cutter edge is if the chain speed were higher, and then you are cutting faster. 

The lighter gauge chain will not take as much abuse but I have not found that to be a problem.


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## Full Chisel (Sep 17, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> Using Oregon 3/8lo pro in both 0.043" and 0.050", this has not been my experience. And there is no reason for 0.043" to wear any faster than 0.050", as it is taking a smaller cut - the only thing that would cause more load per running length of cutter edge is if the chain speed were higher, and then you are cutting faster.
> 
> The lighter gauge chain will not take as much abuse but I have not found that to be a problem.



When I say lifespan I'm referring to how many times the cutters can be filed or ground before they are spent...the .050 has a definite advantage here. I've also found that .050 is easier and more forgiving to sharpen.


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## Chris-PA (Sep 17, 2016)

Full Chisel said:


> When I say lifespan I'm referring to how many times the cutters can be filed or ground before they are spent...the .050 has a definite advantage here. I've also found that .050 is easier and more forgiving to sharpen.


OK, I get it. With the Oregon 90 and 91 chains the cutter length is similar (and too damn short) so the lifetime is too.


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## chipper1 (Sep 17, 2016)

7sleeper said:


> And there we disagree. I see it that you have a major price increase for one of the best saws on the market, but for a major price reduction you get a slightly less powerful package from many other manufacturers.
> 
> 7


What particular saws are you speaking of.
I said normally, there are many factors of my total cost analysis that may not be the same as yours and I would still stand by that statement whether someone chooses to agree or not doesn't change what I have personally experienced. I am however very open to other options as is the reason why I brought this thread back from the dead. I don't think I have slammed any particular brand in any of my statements, but have been particularly open to learning and growing in my knowledge base. Also notice I'm speaking of my personal experience, so it's ok to disagree, I also have thick skin .
While some saws may cost more up front I've only ever bought 2 new saws in my life and I made money when selling the one and have all plans to do the same when I sell the other.
When I take all I use them for, how I buy them, and how I sell them into account many times the long term cost of a pro saw pays off instead of costing more. 
I will say this for a great example; I have not bought bar and chain oil, 2 stroke oil, or a chain that has cost me a cent (except one bottle of bar oil last summer when I forgot mine) after selling the saw I got it with in yrs. As stated my experiences are not everyone else's, but I still want to learn what works best for others and grow.
Here's the 2 new saws I've bought, and I never put any fluids in either one lol.


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## chipper1 (Sep 17, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> OK, I get it. With the Oregon 90 and 91 chains the cutter length is similar (and too damn short) so the lifetime is too.


I love it, humility, not found often, but a breath of fresh air in a world of pollutants .
You guys know way more than me about chains. As I just stated, all my chains come from deals I've done. I normally run .050 because I can switch it back and forth between saws, but I got some .063 chains and a bar I will dedicate to one particular saw now unless someone offers me some good change for them lol.
I even got some nice little ones thrown in on that deal, and the bag has two that are the same as the others that had been freshly sharpened .
The chain on top I found on the expressway on the way home from that deal .


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## Vibes (Sep 17, 2016)

SawTroll said:


> Not suitable as a fast limbing saw though, simply not enough performance!
> 
> It is a bad idea to think about really weak saws as limbing saws, unless the trees are saplings that need to be thinned.



I'm gonna disagree with the prevailing opinions here. If you are just a firewood cutter and don't have employees on the clock, take your pic on any number of low priced cheapo limbing saws. I'm still running my $95 Ryobi 40cc that I bought refurbished 10 years ago off a tool truck at a local VFW. I know it's not a 346 but that thing has put up mountains of firewood in its days. I can power that thing through 8 inch limbs easily. 

My 2nd limber is my Jonsered 2238 that I bought non running at Tractor Supply for $75. It had a choke lever that was sticking open that took all of 30 minutes to repair with an emory board. I sold the new bar and chain on Ebay for $30 and threw on an old 14 inch bar and chain I had laying around. 

My 3rd was one of those clearance Tanaka 32cc rear handle saws that Baileys was clearing out a few years back. I did the same thing and sold the new 14 inch bar and chain on Ebay and fitted it with an old 10 inch bar from an old Poulan SV. I push that saw to its limits all the time and its kind of a challenge burying that little bar. 

" Weak". Yeah!! A little. Lite weight? Extremely!!! Fun Extremely!!! 

My fourth and latest limber is the tried and true Poulan Wildthing. $10 at a yard sale with 4 extra 18 inch chains and the square case. The case and 3 of those chains will be sharpened and on Ebay in about a month. I put a fuel line on it and turned the screws and this little saw runs pretty good. I just cut up a 16 inch dead ash with it and the Tanaka. 2 beds full of ash with less than 2 full tanks of mix with my "weak" and cheap limbers. 

I know I have less than $350 in all these saws. And I know they will last longer than I'll be cutting.


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## chipper1 (Sep 17, 2016)

Vibes said:


> I'm gonna disagree with the prevailing opinions here. If you are just a firewood cutter and don't have employees on the clock, take your pic on any number of low priced cheapo limbing saws. I'm still running my $95 Ryobi 40cc that I bought refurbished 10 years ago off a tool truck at a local VFW. I know it's not a 346 but that thing has put up mountains of firewood in its days. I can power that thing through 8 inch limbs easily.
> 
> My 2nd limber is my Jonsered 2238 that I bought non running at Tractor Supply for $75. It had a choke lever that was sticking open that took all of 30 minutes to repair with an emory board. I sold the new bar and chain on Ebay for $30 and threw on an old 14 inch bar and chain I had laying around.
> 
> ...


That's awesome vibe. Although I probably(I'd give them a try though) wouldn't choose to cut with any of those except maybe the Tanaka(based on my experiences with other Japanese products). 
I like how you operate on selling the bars and chains to recoup some of the initial cost, that sure makes the rest of the deal a lot sweeter.
I still have the first husky I bought, an orange version of a poulan, the 142 with the muffler blown of it. I cut a lot of wood with it and a lot of trees, not just small limbs lol. I should get it running again for good times sakes, or would I quickly realize it's for old times sakes LOL.


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## Full Chisel (Sep 17, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> OK, I get it. With the Oregon 90 and 91 chains the cutter length is similar (and too damn short) so the lifetime is too.



Yeah, those do have *very* short cutters...the 91VXL is much better.


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## Chris-PA (Sep 17, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> I still have the first husky I bought, an orange version of a poulan, the 142 with the muffler blown of it. I cut a lot of wood with it and a lot of trees, not just small limbs lol. I should get it running again for good times sakes, or would I quickly realize it's for old times sakes LOL.


If you've got a 142 you are close to the saw you first asked about. Powerhead is 10.1lb, and they are really nice little saws - compact and narrow. Mine lost the cat muffler and got an opened up 141 non-cat muffler:



I still run the 0.043" chain on it, although it pulls the 0.050" just as well (this is pretty hard ash):


It's one of my only saws with a stock engine.


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## chipper1 (Sep 17, 2016)

Chris-PA said:


> If you've got a 142 you are close to the saw you first asked about. Powerhead is 10.1lb, and they are really nice little saws - compact and narrow. Mine lost the cat muffler and got an opened up 141 non-cat muffler:
> View attachment 526018
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks Chris.
It sure cuts great with both.

The ms200 rear handle is more the range I'm looking in, which I already have, just wanting to see what others are out there.
Here's another I have that is in the ballpark, but not at home plate for the lightweights, it's a 2145 with an AM 346 cylinder.
The chain could have used a bit of work. As said before the chain is just another score off a deal I did. It's a safety chain, but it does just fine, but as I said I'm looking to learn .
Tips or suggestions welcomed.


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## 7sleeper (Sep 17, 2016)

I am a big fan of my Hitachi CS40ek = Tanaka 3800, the big brother CS40EL has even more power in such a nimble pakage!

7


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## Chris-PA (Sep 17, 2016)

In truth the 142 doesn't get all that much use because I have muffler modded GZ400/4000's to use, both ported and mostly stock engines. IMHO it doesn't get much better for a rear handle lightweight saw.


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## Full Chisel (Sep 17, 2016)

I'm a pretty big fan of my CS400...it has some good snot for a lightweight, stock saw. What I really like about it is the fact that it ALWAYS starts in 3-4 pulls cold. Even when it has been sitting dry, a few primes, 2 pulls on choke and 1-2 pulls off choke and it fires right up. It doesn't get much use on firewood duty with the huskies in the stable but around the yard it's my go to saw.


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## diezelsmoke (Sep 17, 2016)

Hitachi CS33EB is a winner in my household. It's the first saw my wife can handle and she loves it, she has sawed the snot out of it every year until this spring and now my problem is I can't find an ignition module. They must have had problems with them, part number has change about three times. You can still buy the saw, but I'm not paying $199.00 I paid $50.00 for this one from Menards in 2009 with it being an open box. She loves going to work and telling the girls she used her chainsaw all weekend.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 17, 2016)

diezelsmoke said:


> Hitachi CS33EB is a winner in my household. It's the first saw my wife can handle and she loves it, she has sawed the snot out of it every year until this spring and now my problem is I can't find an ignition module. They must have had problems with them, part number has change about three times. You can still buy the saw, but I'm not paying $199.00 I paid $50.00 for this one from Menards in 2009 with it being an open box. She loves going to work and telling the girls she used her chainsaw all weekend.


Check with cpo hitachi outlet i seen a few ignition modules on there not sure of the model they are for though

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## diezelsmoke (Sep 17, 2016)

Seedling345 said:


> Check with cpo hitachi outlet i seen a few ignition modules on there not sure of the model they are for though
> 
> Sent from my LGMS428 using Tapatalk



Thanks for the tip I will call next week and ask.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 17, 2016)

Ive been on 3 websites it seems the part you need has been discontinued






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## diezelsmoke (Sep 17, 2016)

That's what I am finding also.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 17, 2016)

diezelsmoke said:


> That's what I am finding also.


Do i feel a little redneck innovation coming on lol

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## diezelsmoke (Sep 17, 2016)

Seedling345 said:


> Do i feel a little redneck innovation coming on lol
> 
> Sent from my LGMS428 using Tapatalk



Possibly !!!
I will call first, I can't believe they don't have something, otherwise I have plenty of blowers, weed eaters, etc. to find something close.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 17, 2016)

diezelsmoke said:


> Possibly !!!
> I will call first, I can't believe they don't have something, otherwise I have plenty of blowers, weed eaters, etc. to find something close.


I did find them but they are in the UK i wonder why they are discontinued here but not there?? Wierd i even tryed finding the tanaka branded part but tanaka just gives you a hitachi diagram but idk if its worth oversea shipping over it.

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## chipper1 (Sep 17, 2016)

Some great responses guys.
I have never owned a Japanese saw, but have a shinny trimmer and a redmax backpack blower. I have replaced the recoil on the backpack blower twice from moisture getting in there (my fault not the products), and an air filter. The weed whip has had a carb cleaning and I think the fuel bulb/primer was replaced. Other than that these have not had any other services or work done on them in the 14 yrs I've owned them. I wouldn't mind trying a few Japanese saws out, and will look into all the models mentioned .
Hope you get your ignition fixed diezel.
Parts availability is one of the things I've thought about in buying a saw that has not sold as many models. I love my Honda products, but have to watch how old I buy on some of them as the parts have been discontinued on all the ones that seem to go bad . I feel I do well at sourcing parts even on older equipment, and can as I have others to run, but when I sell I want others to be able to get parts without having to buy another parts machine as I have been know to do.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 17, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> Some great responses guys.
> I have never owned a Japanese saw, but have a shinny trimmer and a redmax backpack blower. I have replaced the recoil on the backpack blower twice from moisture getting in there (my fault not the products), and an air filter. The weed whip has had a carb cleaning and I think the fuel bulb/primer was replaced. Other than that these have not had any other services or work done on them in the 14 yrs I've owned them. I wouldn't mind trying a few Japanese saws out, and will look into all the models mentioned .
> Hope you get uour ignition diezel.
> Parts availability is one of the things I've thought about in buying a saw that has not sold as many models. I love my Honda products, but have to watch how old I buy on some of them as the parts have been discontinued on all the ones that seem to go bad . I feel I do well at sourcing parts even on older equipment, and can as I have others to run, but when I sell I want others to be able to get parts without having to buy another parts machine as I have been know to do.


That ignition coil is the only part for that saw thats being illusive they have all the other ones 

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## chipper1 (Sep 17, 2016)

Seedling345 said:


> I did find them but they are in the UK i wonder why they are discontinued here but not there?? Wierd i even tryed finding the tanaka branded part but tanaka just gives you a hitachi diagram but idk if its worth oversea shipping over it.
> 
> Sent from my LGMS428 using Tapatalk


I ran into that on my microwave. The part was $12 dollars for one online here in the states, or I could order 100 of them for 22 but they would take a month to get here lol.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 17, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> I ran into that on my microwave. The part was $12 dollars for one online here in the states, or I could order 100 of them for 22 but they would take a month to get here lol.


And hitachis reasoning for discontinuing that coil is it was obsolete lmfao wtf does that even mean how can a main part in starting the saw be obsolete

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## chipper1 (Sep 17, 2016)

Seedling345 said:


> That ignition coil is the only part for that saw thats being illusive they have all the other ones
> 
> Sent from my LGMS428 using Tapatalk


Seems the part you are talking about is exactly what I was taking about. I ran into that on an older honda snow blower (yes the s word, and I'm ready ). I ended up figuring out the part number and googling it to find one. It was in a dealer and hr from my house and I just had them ship it. Then I sold the blower, it should last a long time for him since it was at least 15yrs old and I don't think it had ever been replaced. I had read of many others looking for it and they couldn't find one.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 17, 2016)

I was actually gonna take a pic of the coil on my tanaka top handle npost it see it its the same same modle number min just has a tcs instead of cs

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## Seedling345 (Sep 17, 2016)

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## Seedling345 (Sep 17, 2016)

Ill take the plastic off tomorrow to get the rest of it but on a different note look at this poor excuse of an airfilter on this thing








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## chipper1 (Sep 17, 2016)

Seedling345 said:


> Sent from my LGMS428 using Tapatalk


All I can see is the coil wire, but not the ignition. I'm on my phone though.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 17, 2016)

Yeah it goes under the plastic that hold the pull string im going to pull it apart tomorrow

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## chipper1 (Sep 17, 2016)

Seedling345 said:


> Ill take the plastic off tomorrow to get the rest of it but on a different note look at this poor excuse of an airfilter on this thing
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It's hard to get everything in a lightweight saw . The good thing is it looks clean .


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## Seedling345 (Sep 17, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> It's hard to get everything in a lightweight saw . The good thing is it looks clean .


Just got it in das mail yesterday taking it on its first removal in the a.m 

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## chipper1 (Sep 17, 2016)

Seedling345 said:


> Just got it in das mail yesterday taking it on its first removal in the a.m
> 
> Sent from my LGMS428 using Tapatalk


Does it run a while before the ignition gets hot enough to shut down, or am I missing something.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 17, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> Does it run a while before the ignition gets hot enough to shut down, or am I missing something.


Im not havin problems was just trying to help diezel find his part i ran a tank in a half through the little shitski yesterday was rather impressed actually obviously not standing up to my 241cm but thats a totally different ballpark of saw seriously just got tired of climbing with the 241 didnt want to drop 6 hundy on a 201t so it was the gusky t435 or the tanaka n ive heard only bad about the t435 so figured ide be the guinea pig with the tanaka i litterally up loaded the first video of a tanaka top handle cutting there is virtually no info on the tanaka other than specs and 3 or 4 generic ass reviews 


chipper1 said:


> Does it run a while before the ignition gets hot enough to shut down, or am I missing something.




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## chipper1 (Sep 17, 2016)

Seedling345 said:


> Im not havin problems was just trying to help diezel find his part i ran a tank in a half through the little shitski yesterday was rather impressed actually obviously not standing up to my 241cm but thats a totally different ballpark of saw seriously just got tired of climbing with the 241 didnt want to drop 6 hundy on a 201t so it was the gusky t435 or the tanaka n ive heard only bad about the t435 so figured ide be the guinea pig with the tanaka i litterally up loaded the first video of a tanaka top handle cutting there is virtually no info on the tanaka other than specs and 3 or 4 generic ass reviews
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LGMS428 using Tapatalk


My bad, got yous confused lol.
Link to the video.
How many tanks through it before the video.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 17, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> My bad, got yous confused lol.
> Link to the video.
> How many tanks through it before the video.


This was about half way through the first tank on a oak chunk i pulled out of my fire pit obviously it started rolling and i am still a little hesitant from all the kick back stories i hear about top handles figure it will take a few uses to get used to the feeling of it 



chipper1 said:


> My bad, got yous confused lol.
> Link to the video.
> How many tanks through it before the video.




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## chipper1 (Sep 17, 2016)

Seedling345 said:


> This was about half way through the first tank on a oak chunk i pulled out of my fire pit obviously it started rolling and i am still a little hesitant from all the kick back stories i hear about top handles figure it will take a few uses to get used to the feeling of it
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Looks like it runs well. I'll get the stopwatch out and get back with you though .
Do you know what the equivalent rear handle is.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 17, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> Looks like it runs well. I'll get the stopwatch out and get back with you though .
> Do you know what the equivalent rear handle is.


Haha i was just glad it kept chuggin along full bar in i half expected it to boh out alot of guys say a silky replaces anything under 35cc i dont see that as acurate but what do i know 

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## chipper1 (Sep 17, 2016)

Seedling345 said:


> Haha i was just glad it kept chuggin along full bar in i half expected it to boh out alot of guys say a silky replaces anything under 35cc i dont see that as acurate but what do i know
> 
> Sent from my LGMS428 using Tapatalk


About as much as I do. Some would also say you are wasting your time with anything under a 50cc, but seems as though quite a few are doing it. It must be like ported saws, just a fad LOL.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 18, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> Looks like it runs well. I'll get the stopwatch out and get back with you though .
> Do you know what the equivalent rear handle is.









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## Seedling345 (Sep 18, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> About as much as I do. Some would also say you are wasting your time with anything under a 50cc, but seems as though quite a few are doing it. It must be like ported saws, just a fad LOL.


Probably but i am liking the look of that 150 rear handle stihl but cant see myself needing 2 mini getters

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## chipper1 (Sep 18, 2016)

Seedling345 said:


> Sent from my LGMS428 using Tapatalk


That's not exactly cheap for a baby saw.
Looking up the specs it looks as though it has 1.6 hp and is 8.4 oz. Quite a bit under the 2.2 hp and the same in weight as my ms200 rear handle. A big price difference though.
The 192 rear handle is only 7.4 lbs and has 1.7 hp. I'm thinking I would probably go that route because I know the way the 192 performs, and the Tanaka has not proven itself yet. I'd still love to run one because specs are only specs and in the real world sometimes those specs are a long way off how they run in the wood.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 18, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> That's not exactly cheap for a baby saw.
> Looking up the specs it looks as though it has 1.6 hp and is 8.4 oz. Quite a bit under the 2.2 hp and the same in weight as my ms200 rear handle. A big price difference though.
> The 192 rear handle is only 7.4 lbs and has 1.7 hp. I'm thinking I would probably go that route because I know the way the 192 performs, and the Tanaka has not proven itself yet. I'd still love to run one because specs are only specs and in the real world sometimes those specs are a long way off how they run in the wood.


Well im leaving for a spruce removal in about 20 minutes so ill let you know gow it does. I imagine it cant do to bad spruce is pretty soft. Sticky but soft and the spruce is smaller in diameter than that oak chunk in the vid sooooo we shall see

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## chipper1 (Sep 18, 2016)

Seedling345 said:


> Well im leaving for a spruce removal in about 20 minutes so ill let you know gow it does. I imagine it cant do to bad spruce is pretty soft. Sticky but soft and the spruce is smaller in diameter than that oak chunk in the vid sooooo we shall see
> 
> Sent from my LGMS428 using Tapatalk


Sounds like fun.
I did this one with the ms200 earlier this yr.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 18, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> Sounds like fun.
> I did this one with the ms200 earlier this yr.View attachment 526126


Looks good boss. If all else fails my ms241cm hasnt shyed away from anything ive thrown at it so i always got that to fall back on but its so cumbersome to climb with. Wish i could get a 200t i tried talking my beighbor out of gis when he closed his landscape business but he wasnt havin none of it

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## chipper1 (Sep 18, 2016)

Seedling345 said:


> Looks good boss. If all else fails my ms241cm hasnt shyed away from anything ive thrown at it so i always got that to fall back on but its so cumbersome to climb with. Wish i could get a 200t i tried talking my beighbor out of gis when he closed his landscape business but he wasnt havin none of it
> 
> Sent from my LGMS428 using Tapatalk


Thanks. 
I've heard good about the 241 and would like to try one.
The 200 I have us the rear handle, but I have a 192t. I'm not a climber, but you know how that goes, have saws and gear therfore I climb now and then. The 192 is a long way from the 200 for sure, but I've had a lot of fun with the 192's I've owned, very light saw.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 18, 2016)

I dont have any complaints about the 241 other than my dumb ass decision to buy for climbing i only muff modded it and its a little power house. And i think peoples complaints avout the smaller top handles are un justified it obvious wont take big ass limbs stick to what its made for and i imagine they are great saws

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## 7sleeper (Sep 18, 2016)

One should clearly understand that the Hitachi *CS33EB *is only a small entry level homeowner branch cutter. 

The Hitachi *CS33* *ED TP *is a entry level pro saw. Build quality is much better. 

The Hitachi *CS33 EA *is the back handle version of above saw and a much better choice compared to the *EB*!

And the Hitachi *CS40 EA* is another totally different saw, although the name is similar. And personally as a backhandle saw my entry level is ~40cc. I prefer to skip the smaller type saws, because I find the weight savings to be too little compared to the loss of power. 

7


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## Seedling345 (Sep 18, 2016)

Well my phone was dead but i put this little tabaka top handle through the ringer today on a little 25 max foot spruce didnt pull out the 241 at all probably should have. It took a little time but it took the abuse doesnt look new any more though lol but seriously im thinking this is gonna be a good little climb saw. 








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## Seedling345 (Sep 18, 2016)

Oh and i smoked the chain on a nail in the very last cut but hey thats not the saws fault

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## blsnelling (Sep 18, 2016)

MS150 for the small stuff and then a MS241. Both are expensive, but worth it for what you get.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 18, 2016)

blsnelling said:


> MS150 for the small stuff and then a MS241. Both are expensive, but worth it for what you get.



I have a 241cm lol but that 150 is really sparking my interest

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## Vibes (Sep 18, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> That's awesome vibe. Although I probably(I'd give them a try though) wouldn't choose to cut with any of those except maybe the Tanaka(based on my experiences with other Japanese products).
> I like how you operate on selling the bars and chains to recoup some of the initial cost, that sure makes the rest of the deal a lot sweeter.
> I still have the first husky I bought, an orange version of a poulan, the 142 with the muffler blown of it. I cut a lot of wood with it and a lot of trees, not just small limbs lol. I should get it running again for good times sakes, or would I quickly realize it's for old times sakes LOL.


 My Tanaka is a 3351 I think. It's one of the last saws Tanaka made prior to the Hitachi buy out. The Ryobi is also a made in Japan Red Max GZ 400 in Ryobi colors. It's a screamer with a 16 inch bar on it.

Those AO41 bars are easy to come by used. I get them from the garbage or scrap yard. I always sell the new ones and they are slam dunk sellers on Ebay because they fit so many saws.

I bought a stack of the Carlton Forest Champ 14 inch bars from one of those NOS clearance outlets on Ebay several years ago. They are the 1 piece style with replaceable sprocket. I got them for $3 each. Then I bought those Orange GB 12 and 10 inch bar combos from Left Coast. I'll never need another AO41 small mount bar. I got a 16 incher on clearance at Wal Mart last week too like I even needed it.


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## chipper1 (Sep 18, 2016)

7sleeper said:


> One should clearly understand that the Hitachi *CS33EB *is only a small entry level homeowner branch cutter.
> 
> The Hitachi *CS33* *ED TP *is a entry level pro saw. Build quality is much better.
> 
> ...


Good info 7.
I will be studying these all out. It's nice that the info is here on AS, but to have it in my head is nice to in case I need to make a quick decision on one.
I have a lot to learn.


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## chipper1 (Sep 18, 2016)

Seedling345 said:


> Oh and i smoked the chain on a nail in the very last cut but hey thats not the saws fault
> 
> Sent from my LGMS428 using Tapatalk


I hate it when that happens.
Glad it was working good for you.
How big was the base of that tree.
Where are you at in MI.


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## chipper1 (Sep 19, 2016)

blsnelling said:


> MS150 for the small stuff and then a MS241. Both are expensive, but worth it for what you get.



Thanks Brad.
They both look fun for sure, in their own ways.
Could you put that 150 in a padded shipping envelope and send it up here for seedling and I to try out.
That black locust sure looked nice you diced up with the 241, I love locust.


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## chipper1 (Sep 19, 2016)

Vibes said:


> My Tanaka is a 3351 I think. It's one of the last saws Tanaka made prior to the Hitachi buy out. The Ryobi is also a made in Japan Red Max GZ 400 in Ryobi colors. It's a screamer with a 16 inch bar on it.
> 
> Those AO41 bars are easy to come by used. I get them from the garbage or scrap yard. I always sell the new ones and they are slam dunk sellers on Ebay because they fit so many saws.
> 
> I bought a stack of the Carlton Forest Champ 14 inch bars from one of those NOS clearance outlets on Ebay several years ago. They are the 1 piece style with replaceable sprocket. I got them for $3 each. Then I bought those Orange GB 12 and 10 inch bar combos from Left Coast. I'll never need another AO41 small mount bar. I got a 16 incher on clearance at Wal Mart last week too like I even needed it.


What is the weight on the gz400, sounds fun.
Thanks for the tips on the bars.
I enjoy deals like those myself. I have a lot of chain here at the house, if I never got another I bet they would outlast me.
I also have a good amount of bars, but there are more that I want.


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## Vibes (Sep 19, 2016)

What is the weight on the gz400, sounds fun.

I'm not a stats guy and don't have a scale. It's liter than my Wildthing but I am still running an 18 inch bat on that one.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 19, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> I hate it when that happens.
> Glad it was working good for you.
> How big was the base of that tree.
> Where are you at in MI.


I meassured the top of the stump it was 23 inches across and im over here in howell. I was born in south haven and raised in battle creek and moved to howell in 09

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## chipper1 (Sep 19, 2016)

Vibes said:


> What is the weight on the gz400, sounds fun.
> 
> I'm not a stats guy and don't have a scale. It's liter than my Wildthing but I am still running an 18 inch bat on that one.


Where's @SawTroll when you need him. Hope you having a great evening ST.
I saw a real sweet limited edition wild thing the other day in prestigious condition . 
Joking aside your right that just as power specs don't always tell the full story the weight specs don't either. I don't mind the 660 at all when I'm bucking a 30"+ oak, but for limbing it would get heavy fast.


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## chipper1 (Sep 19, 2016)

Seedling345 said:


> I meassured the top of the stump it was 23 inches across and im over here in howell. I was born in south haven and raised in battle creek and moved to howell in 09
> 
> Sent from my LGMS428 using Tapatalk


Yes, the 241 would have been used at that size for sure. I might have even broke out the 044 for that, just because lol.
I was in Fowlerville 2 weekends ago to help my BIL pick up some vinyl fence. I hauled it down to Defiance Oh.
I know all those areas quite well. I'm at exit 52 of I -96 in Lowell.


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## Vibes (Sep 19, 2016)

Yea I'm at the age that when I'm looking for firewood those smaller trees get my attention. For the last few years I find myself grabbing that Ryobi as often as any of my 50cc saws.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 19, 2016)

Nice thats past 69 from my area correct? And i probably should have but i was really curious to see what it could do. I wont be pushing that hard again and wouldnt have if the tree wasnt spruce well maybe some cotton wood or something but i definitely wouldnt have done it to an oak or locust. Fowlerville is pretty laid back alot of dopers out that way but thats all of livingston county lol

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## chipper1 (Sep 19, 2016)

Seedling345 said:


> Nice thats past 69 from my area correct? And i probably should have but i was really curious to see what it could do. I wont be pushing that hard again and wouldnt have if the tree wasnt spruce well maybe some cotton wood or something but i definitely wouldnt have done it to an oak or locust. Fowlerville is pretty laid back alot of dopers out that way but thats all of livingston county lol
> 
> Sent from my LGMS428 using Tapatalk


Yes, past 69 by about an hr to my house.
Wouldn't matter how hard you push on some locust, if you didn't have the power it wouldn't cut it lol.
I don't hang with that crowd, so I don't pay much attention .


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## chipper1 (Sep 19, 2016)

Vibes said:


> Yea I'm at the age that when I'm looking for firewood those smaller trees get my attention. For the last few years I find myself grabbing that Ryobi as often as any of my 50cc saws.


I hear you on that. I get a lot of 12-24" logs given to me so at least I'm not lugging around a big saw in the woods often. When I am it's just to help friends normally. 
If you want to get the pictures posted of the saw you just listed feel free to pm me and I'll give you my # so you can text them to me, and I'll post them for you.


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## Seedling345 (Sep 19, 2016)

chipper1 said:


> Yes, past 69 by about an hr to my house.
> Wouldn't matter how hard you push on some locust, if you didn't have the power it wouldn't cut it lol.
> I don't hang with that crowd, so I don't pay much attention .


Ove only cut one locust in 4 years it was with my foremans ms250 (why i bought my 241 i learned with a 250) but it didnt like it very much. But the lady across the street has a thick ass ash tree dieing prolly eab but i want to take the little guy for a test run on that (pheasable sizes this time lol) 

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## SawTroll (Sep 19, 2016)

Vibes said:


> What is the weight on the gz400, sounds fun.
> 
> I'm not a stats guy and don't have a scale. It's liter than my Wildthing but I am still running an 18 inch bat on that one.



According to the owners manual it is 4.6 kg, which is about 10.1 lbs - but I don't think it still is a current model? The newer(?) GZ4000 is lighter.


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