# Large White Oak split down center



## teiseman (Aug 7, 2013)

I have a 120' tall white oak about 40" diameter at base. Starting below the first large limb about 50' up a vertical crack runs up the center of the main trunk of the tree for 10' going well past the large limb. The crack is about 6" wide and you can see completely through to the other side. The crack tapers at both ends but looks likely to grow at each end. If a tree climber has experience with removing a tree like this advice is appreciated. Tree must come down in chunks. Bucket truck is not an option. Climbing nearby trees is not an option. My sense is to first lighten the load/ remove the previously mentioned large limb that is adjacent to the crack and which obviously caused the crack. I am really not sure about cutting the trunk above and below the split. We are dealing with a big oak here. Thanks in advance.


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Aug 7, 2013)

Pictures would help, and you should probably put this in the homeowners help forum. You sure on that height? That's pretty tall for a white oak. Jeff


----------



## teiseman (Aug 7, 2013)

TheJollyLogger said:


> Pictures would help, and you should probably put this in the homeowners help forum. You sure on that height? That's pretty tall for a white oak. Jeff



maybe pretty tall in Texas but not in Tennessee. I don't have a picture, but if you can imagine a tall straight white oak (forest style) with a wide split down the center 10feet long. both ends taper. how high above and below the split can I safely cut? no need to reply if you've never seen this kind of thing. thanks.


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Aug 7, 2013)

Yeah, I've seen this kind of thing. The reason I ask is most white oaks are more in the 65-80 ' range. The record is 144. It's common for homeowners to overestimate height. Honestly, without pictures it's going to be hard to give you good advice, but I would definitely say this is a tree you need to get a professional in to take care of. You're dealing with a very dangerous situation with a lot of stored energy in that split, with a lot of weight above it. Even with good pictures keep in mind it's no substitute for an experienced pro being able to asses the situation in person. Jeff


----------



## teiseman (Aug 7, 2013)

TheJollyLogger said:


> Yeah, I've seen this kind of thing. The reason I ask is most white oaks are more in the 65-80 ' range. The record is 144. It's common for homeowners to overestimate height. Honestly, without pictures it's going to be hard to give you good advice, but I would definitely say this is a tree you need to get a professional in to take care of. You're dealing with a very dangerous situation with a lot of stored energy in that split, with a lot of weight above it. Even with good pictures keep in mind it's no substitute for an experienced pro being able to asses the situation in person. Jeff



Jeff, if you are trying to help then that's great. Maybe read more and post less. If you just have a little #### you are trying to compensate for, then bug off. I am not a homeowner which is why I am posting on a Commercial Tree Care and Climbing forum. I am a climber and I am asking other climbers advice. You are not a climber as you don't understand a homeowner has neither the skills nor tools nor balls to even consider tackling the removal that I clearly described.


----------



## KenJax Tree (Aug 7, 2013)

Ok first thing is NOWHERE in your post does it say you're a climber or have any experience. Why come in here and ask advice without pics and then shoot your mouth off at the response you get. I think you pretty much just ruined and chance of getting help from anyone. You asked if a climber had experience with this situation that advice would be appreciated that makes you sound inexperienced. Good luck


----------



## teiseman (Aug 7, 2013)

Here is a photo of the tree (background and right) from 100 feet away. the tree on the left is the foreground and about 70 feet away. the crack, again, is about 6 inches at its widest and easily 10 feet long. the branch off to the left is coming from the split tree not the foreground tree. the crack starts below the crotch of this branch and extends above it.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3rqbsqdbysal4of/20130807_141944.jpg


https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9461494406/in/photostream/lightbox/


please, if you are a TOOL, do not comment.


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Aug 7, 2013)

It's all good, Ken, he's probably not going to like my answer anyway, which is that there's no way to answer his question without an onsite assesment. One, I would not reccomend climbing past a split of that size. Two, it will be very difficult to tell how far that split goes past where it's visible, leading to several nasty scenarios jst one of which is the mother of all barber chairs. This is a highly hazardous tree, and you really do need to get a professional skilled in storm/hurricane situations. Jeff


----------



## teiseman (Aug 7, 2013)

KenJax Tree said:


> Ok first thing is NOWHERE in your post does it say you're a climber or have any experience. Why come in here and ask advice without pics and then shoot your mouth off at the response you get. I think you pretty much just ruined and chance of getting help from anyone. You asked if a climber had experience with this situation that advice would be appreciated that makes you sound inexperienced. Good luck



KenJaxitbehindaTree forgive me for assuming you could read between the lines on a "Commercial Tree Care and Climbing" thread, as I said it had to be chunked down, and that a bucket and other trees were not options to assist the removal. I sound inexperienced because I ask the advice of others?? dude, you are clueless. You too clearly are a troll and not a climber. Are there any tree climbers on this site? who knows a safe distance above and below the split to cut?


----------



## KenJax Tree (Aug 7, 2013)

Have some red


----------



## teiseman (Aug 7, 2013)

TheJollyLogger said:


> It's all good, Ken, he's probably not going to like my answer anyway, which is that there's no way to answer his question without an onsite assesment. One, I would not reccomend climbing past a split of that size. Two, it will be very difficult to tell how far that split goes past where it's visible, leading to several nasty scenarios jst one of which is the mother of all barber chairs. This is a highly hazardous tree, and you really do need to get a professional skilled in storm/hurricane situations. Jeff



JollyLOGger I appreciate your answer much more than the first two. Though it is stating the obvious and why I came here in the first place. Like I said, climbing past the split is the only option. So in your opinion it can't be removed without a helicopter?


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Aug 7, 2013)

Not necessarily. It's just one of those situations where I don't feel it's responsible to give advice over the internet based on a couple pictures. Thare are a lot of variables in this equation, and I don't know your experience level, how much storm work you've done, what's under the tree, the surrounding area, etc. No offense, but you popped in here as a new member and asked a question that didn't have an answer based on tue info you gave us, didn't give us any background on yourself, and then honestly got a little rude when I asked some valid questions to clarify the situation. You did mention that the other tree is only 70' away' ajd it looks like there are other trees in the area, so that does open up some possibilities.

And by the way, I'd trust Ken on either end of the rope any day. Jeff


----------



## Zale (Aug 7, 2013)

I'll bite. What is underneath the tree in regards to obstacles? How fresh is the split? Has any reaction wood formed? Is this the most difficult tree you have attempted?


----------



## teiseman (Aug 7, 2013)

Zale said:


> I'll bite. What is underneath the tree in regards to obstacles? How fresh is the split? Has any reaction wood formed? Is this the most difficult tree you have attempted?




Thanks bro. No new cambium growth. split is fairly fresh I'd say. The tree is the highest canopy and has several smaller trees growing under it. I'd say if the tree came down whole maybe it will bring a half dozen smaller trees down with it and it will hit the customers road which he doesn't want to happen. This is steep terrain close to 30% grade. I don't know if this is a difficult tree but it is a dangerous tree. I have removed many difficult trees. But this is not easy to rig. The tree must be climbed. There are no other trees big enough and close enough to help with the removal.

I am inclined to throw a big binder strap about 1/3 from the top and 1/3 from the bottom of the split and remove the limb that is in the middlet o lighten the load on the split. This was my idea, but I am curious what others would do...


----------



## Jed1124 (Aug 7, 2013)

Is a tracked lift a option? The only reason a bucket is not a option is access. No climber in his right mind is going to climb above that split and rig or bomb pieces off it. Only safe way is to be off the wood being dropped. If you are a climber rent a lift and top it out. Ken Jax makes a lot of good helpful posts here. My advice would be to listen to what he has to say.


----------



## Zale (Aug 7, 2013)

If the only things that are going to be damaged are understory trees and a road, I would drop it. What kind of road is it? Have you already sold the job? If not, you can always walk away from it. Tell the client you're going to drop it due to safety concerns for the climber. If he doesn't like it, walk.


----------



## Bandit Man (Aug 7, 2013)

teiseman said:


> I have a 120' tall white oak about 40" diameter at base. Starting below the first large limb about 50' up a vertical crack runs up the center of the main trunk of the tree for 10' going well past the large limb. The crack is about 6" wide and you can see completely through to the other side. The crack tapers at both ends but looks likely to grow at each end. If a tree climber has experience with removing a tree like this advice is appreciated. Tree must come down in chunks. Bucket truck is not an option. Climbing nearby trees is not an option. My sense is to first lighten the load/ remove the previously mentioned large limb that is adjacent to the crack and which obviously caused the crack. I am really not sure about cutting the trunk above and below the split. We are dealing with a big oak here. Thanks in advance.



Rowdy heh?
I have done several of these. If you are experienced, then you know that white oak is very strong against the grain, but VERY brittle with the grain. That makes this crack more dangerous. If you have taken the job, I would only use chains and screw binders, at least three of them, to make the crack more secure. Then carefully climb and take down as you normally do. 
And like the other guys said, the more info you put into your question, the better answers you will receive. Good luck.


----------



## teiseman (Aug 7, 2013)

Jed1124 said:


> Is a tracked lift a option? The only reason a bucket is not a option is access. No climber in his right mind is going to climb above that split and rig or bomb pieces off it. Only safe way is to be off the wood being dropped. If you are a climber rent a lift and top it out. Ken Jax makes a lot of good helpful posts here. My advice would be to listen to what he has to say.



terrain is 30% grade. I'm going to climb above that split and the only question is how. KenJacksitbehindatree is a TOOL who contributed nothing to the conversation.


----------



## treeclimber101 (Aug 7, 2013)

Rope it together , put on a few ratchet straps and chase them with ropes . Also think about roping it to another tree to try to slow the sway . As far as climbing above the split your taking your own ass Into your hands , I would be flopping that tree for sure


----------



## teiseman (Aug 7, 2013)

Bandit Man said:


> Rowdy heh?
> I have done several of these. If you are experienced, then you know that white oak is very strong against the grain, but VERY brittle with the grain. That makes this crack more dangerous. If you have taken the job, I would only use chains and screw binders, at least three of them, to make the crack more secure. Then carefully climb and take down as you normally do.
> And like the other guys said, the more info you put into your question, the better answers you will receive. Good luck.



THanks Bandit Man!! great this is what I was thinking. Ok three instead of two and chains instead of straps. good call.


----------



## Bandit Man (Aug 7, 2013)

teiseman said:


> THanks Bandit Man!! great this is what I was thinking. Ok three instead of two and chains instead of straps. good call.



Sure thing, but I have to add a disclaimer here. What I said is what I do. I'm not recommending you climb past the crack. 
Now that being said, again Good luck.


----------



## teiseman (Aug 7, 2013)

treeclimber101 said:


> Rope it together , put on a few ratchet straps and chase them with ropes . Also think about roping it to another tree to try to slow the sway . As far as climbing above the split your taking your own ass Into your hands , I would be flopping that tree for sure



thanks bro! forgive my ignorance but I'm from Tennessee and we don't use the term "flopping" here. please elaborate.


----------



## treeclimber101 (Aug 7, 2013)

teiseman said:


> thanks bro! forgive my ignorance but I'm from Tennessee and we don't use the term "flopping" here. please elaborate.



I wouldn't climb it , I would find a place to drop it whole ...... Flopping it LOL , I have climbed trees with splits before , I did a nasty wild cherry a while back , scary as hell , my biggest worry was something I didn't see like a complete break that was not visible to the eye and the damn thing falling apart with me in it .


----------



## teiseman (Aug 7, 2013)

Zale said:


> If the only things that are going to be damaged are understory trees and a road, I would drop it. What kind of road is it? Have you already sold the job? If not, you can always walk away from it. Tell the client you're going to drop it due to safety concerns for the climber. If he doesn't like it, walk.



sorry Zale this tree cannot be dropped. not gonna happen. aside from the barber chair risk at the bottom, the canopy is above many other big trees and branches. it will hang for sure. oh and its a road on a 30% grade!!!


----------



## treeclimber101 (Aug 7, 2013)

I am not trying to be a ####ing did I here but you are familiar with round turns right , start about a foot above the crack , and put a #### load of round turns where the crack is , use100 ft or rope if need be , I say start from the top to use your body weight to set the turns tight , space em 6" if need be


----------



## teiseman (Aug 7, 2013)

treeclimber101 said:


> I am not trying to be a ####ing did I here but you are familiar with round turns right , start about a foot above the crack , and put a #### load of round turns where the crack is , use100 ft or rope if need be , I say start from the top to use your body weight to set the turns tight , space em 6" if need be



great. yeah that sounds maybe the strongest option yet. good advice. thank you.


----------



## treeclimber101 (Aug 7, 2013)

This is how I would set it up , 1st pic run em all the way down




and don't Chince on the rope or you may be "flopping" into a casket ! Jack .


----------



## miko0618 (Aug 7, 2013)

first off, lets go with the split. that split could well be within the core the whole length of the trunk. just because you cant see it, doesn't mean its not there. I would smash the trees under it and splash the road. whats the problem with that? risk your life to save a couple trees, """" that. it seems as though theres some large trees close enough to rig the whole tree down. throw some lines up and set 4 or 5 good rigging lines. climb the closest large trees and set blocks in the shape of a triangle with the tree to fall being the tip. strap the trunk. cut your notch chest height and butt tie the trunk to the stump. bore the center from the side and make a low back cut leaving a couple inches between it and the bore. get away from the tree. pull it over slowly until the vertical holding wood snaps leaving the hinge. slowly lower it. if this isn't possible, drop the tree would be my only option to the customer.


----------



## treeclimber101 (Aug 7, 2013)

Or take a day and build a spiderweb for it ........... Seems legit ...........:msp_w00t:a triangle tree web !


----------



## teiseman (Aug 7, 2013)

miko0618 said:


> first off, lets go with the split. that split could well be within the core the whole length of the trunk. just because you cant see it, doesn't mean its not there. I would smash the trees under it and splash the road. whats the problem with that? risk your life to save a couple trees, """" that. it seems as though theres some large trees close enough to rig the whole tree down. throw some lines up and set 4 or 5 good rigging lines. climb the closest large trees and set blocks in the shape of a triangle with the tree to fall being the tip. strap the trunk. cut your notch chest height and butt tie the trunk to the stump. bore the center from the side and make a low back cut leaving a couple inches between it and the bore. get away from the tree. pull it over slowly until the vertical holding wood snaps leaving the hinge. slowly lower it. if this isn't possible, drop the tree would be my only option to the customer.



Do you see the tree in the foreground? this is one of the trees that is under it that you would smash. there are more and as I said this is the tallest tree. it's limbs are well above and through the canopies of smaller but still very large trees. there is nowhere to drop it. it will hang and make a bigger more difficult mess. this is not a 101 question. the road was put in at considerable expense. the road is a good 50' BELOW the base of the tree. since it took significant cost and energy to put the road on the 30% grade hill, the customer wants to not risk losing his road, which if this tree comes down on from so far, it would do. just to be clear.


----------



## teiseman (Aug 7, 2013)

teiseman said:


> Do you see the tree in the foreground? this is one of the trees that is under it that you would smash. there are more and as I said this is the tallest tree. it's limbs are well above and through the canopies of smaller but still very large trees. there is nowhere to drop it. it will hang and make a bigger more difficult mess. this is not a 101 question. the road was put in at considerable expense. the road is a good 50' BELOW the base of the tree. since it took significant cost and energy to put the road on the 30% grade hill, the customer wants to not risk losing his road, which if this tree comes down on from so far, it would do. just to be clear.



but thanks for the 400 level rigging suggestion! LOL


----------



## Bandit Man (Aug 7, 2013)

T-man, I can tell you are going up this tree no matter what. Hope the $'s good! 
But Miko is right about the split running the whole trunk. Throw a binder on about 3' up also, just for insurance. 
Keep in mind also that area is rocky, so with the grade, a white oak root ball will be very shallow. Throw on a GoPro and video this ok. Would like to see how it goes.


----------



## mr. holden wood (Aug 7, 2013)

teiseman said:


> Do you see the tree in the foreground? this is one of the trees that is under it that you would smash. there are more and as I said this is the tallest tree. it's limbs are well above and through the canopies of smaller but still very large trees. there is nowhere to drop it. it will hang and make a bigger more difficult mess. this is not a 101 question. the road was put in at considerable expense. the road is a good 50' BELOW the base of the tree. since it took significant cost and energy to put the road on the 30% grade hill, the customer wants to not risk losing his road, which if this tree comes down on from so far, it would do. just to be clear.



Best new addition to the site in awhile. I cant imagine how I would solve this riddle. Any experienced arborist knows just how delicate roads are. The stress of possibly hitting a road or a few saplings in the woods would keep me up for days. Good luck with this one.


----------



## Jed1124 (Aug 7, 2013)

*ed*

What is the price on this job. As I mentioned before I think this a perfected job for a tracked lift. If there is money in the job for one I think this is your best option. If you are going to climb above the split, good luck to ya.


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Aug 7, 2013)

teiseman said:


> Jeff, if you are trying to help then that's great. Maybe read more and post less. If you just have a little #### you are trying to compensate for, then bug off. I am not a homeowner which is why I am posting on a Commercial Tree Care and Climbing forum. I am a climber and I am asking other climbers advice. You are not a climber as you don't understand a homeowner has neither the skills nor tools nor balls to even consider tackling the removal that I clearly described.



Just got home, and actually caught up on the posts. You wouldn't believe how many homeowners post in the wrong spot, and based on the questions you asked without giving enough info, it certainly seemed likely. I don't know how it is in Tennessee, but in Texas when we come to a new place we have the common courtesy to introduce ourselves. As far as whether Ken or I are climbers, well, we ain't the guys asking for advice now, are we. Look at your original post and be honest with yourself. Did you really give enough info for an educated answer? Getting back to the tree, if there is another tree somewhat inline with the tree in the foreground, you can set up a highline safety independent of the tree you're taking down that will give you an additional safety, although there are additional risks with that as well. Jeff


----------



## teiseman (Aug 7, 2013)

Thnks for the advice to those who contributed. I knew there'd be some climbers on this site. Anyhow, this ol boy is paying 2G's for me to remove and not hit his other trees nor his road. So I ain't gonna let it hit his road, and his trees will look good when I'm gone, just a stump to show for it. A lift will not work on this terrain. This is black diamond steep and loose. I doubt I'll be a hero, but I will report back and let you fellers know how it goes. Maybe I'll get some more pics. Until next time.


----------



## 7.3 rocket (Aug 7, 2013)

As a new climber I have nothing to offer other than good luck and hope I don't see you in the accident section of the next TCIA magazine. 

2 grand is nowhere near enough to get me to climb above that split. Any way you could set a crane up on his road and have the crane lift you in and use that as your TIP so if things go bad you still have a secure tie in?


----------



## miko0618 (Aug 7, 2013)

so what happens if you remove weight that's keeping the split in tact and preventing the tree from total failure. you obviously don't know the meaning of no. your probably broke and desperate. 2 grand in the tree business isn't much cash. your customer built a glass road apparently. pad the road. pile 4' of logs on each side. trim the damaged limbs from the fall. if the oak is 120' tall once it starts going, providing you don't plow right into another tree, its coming to ground. but your not here for advice on whats right, are you?

I like your potty mouth and arrogant attitude though. it'll do you well from your future wheel chair. TOOL!


----------



## Zale (Aug 7, 2013)

Good luck. I'm not bustin' balls but in the future, you might want to figure out how to take the tree down before you give him the price. You've got to take a picture of this road for me. It must be very delicate if a tree can't land on it.


----------



## Jed1124 (Aug 7, 2013)

miko0618 said:


> so what happens if you remove weight that's keeping the split in tact and preventing the tree from total failure. you obviously don't know the meaning of no. your probably broke and desperate. 2 grand in the tree business isn't much cash. your customer built a glass road apparently. pad the road. pile 4' of logs on each side. trim the damaged limbs from the fall. if the oak is 120' tall once it starts going, providing you don't plow right into another tree, its coming to ground. but your not here for advice on whats right, are you?
> 
> I like your potty mouth and arrogant attitude though. it'll do you well from your future wheel chair. TOOL!



LOL. This is going well.I love you guys. Anyhow, if the stem is codominant, which it looks like it might from the pic, could you rig off the other stem? Just a thought. Like I said before,good luck to ya.


----------



## jefflovstrom (Aug 7, 2013)

KenJax Tree said:


> Ok first thing is NOWHERE in your post does it say you're a climber or have any experience. Why come in here and ask advice without pics and then shoot your mouth off at the response you get. I think you pretty much just ruined and chance of getting help from anyone. You asked if a climber had experience with this situation that advice would be appreciated that makes you sound inexperienced. Good luck



Who is the bully now??
Jeff :msp_biggrin:

I'll be back,,,,,


----------



## KenJax Tree (Aug 7, 2013)

:hmm3grin2orange:


jefflovstrom said:


> Who is the bully now??
> Jeff
> 
> I'll be back,,,,,


:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## woodchuck357 (Aug 7, 2013)

*I have taken down similar trees by climbing*

I would set up a high cable between two nearby trees if possible at right angles to the split to attach a bailout line to. Then wrap the split, cut the big limb with a jump cut to keep bending force on the trunk at a minimum. The split will most likely snap shut when the limb hops off. Re do the wraps after the limb is off, they will have slacked off. When you get to the top use a jump cut to top it, again to keep sideways forces from pushing on the stem as a normal notch would do. Use vertical zip line to keep chunks near the trunk as they are dropped. Don't rope chunks down. Make all cuts at right angle to split. Film everything from multiple cameras. Lotsa luck.

When you get down to the split either take small chunks or leave bindings in place and drop the whole split at one chunk. If you drop the whole split, write off the stuff you used for binding!


----------



## jefflovstrom (Aug 7, 2013)

treeclimber101 said:


> I am not trying to be a ####ing did I here but you are familiar with round turns right , start about a foot above the crack , and put a #### load of round turns where the crack is , use100 ft or rope if need be , I say start from the top to use your body weight to set the turns tight , space em 6" if need be



I agree,, get up there and piece it out.
Jeff


----------



## deevo (Aug 7, 2013)

7.3 rocket said:


> As a new climber I have nothing to offer other than good luck and hope I don't see you in the accident section of the next TCIA magazine.
> 
> 2 grand is nowhere near enough to get me to climb above that split. Any way you could set a crane up on his road and have the crane lift you in and use that as your TIP so if things go bad you still have a secure tie in?



Yeah what about a crane? Any access? 2 grand climbing that isnt worth an accident either. If you read the monthly TCIA magazines like 7.3 rocket is talking about, tree failures are becoming a lot more common. Be safe.


----------



## BC WetCoast (Aug 7, 2013)

*Think outside the box*

I concur on a pic of this road. Having designed logging roads for 20 yrs, including several over 30% grade on sidehills over 100%, I have never seen one fail when a log landed on it.

As for taking down the tree. Dynamite. Climb up as high as you feel safe, tape a stick (or half stick depending on size) to the stem, come down. Kaboom. 

If you can climb high enough, you will blow the top out and then just have the stem to fall without damaging the surrounding vegetation.

http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfpubs/pdf08672325/pdf08672325dpi72.pdf

Explosive tree felling has a place
http://www.bcforestsafe.org/files/Training/DangerousTreeBlastingForFallersOverview.pdf


----------



## miko0618 (Aug 7, 2013)

was there a link to the TCIA article?


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Aug 7, 2013)

I'm still waiting to see a full pic of a 120' white oak that's only 40" at the base.


----------



## KenJax Tree (Aug 7, 2013)

TheJollyLogger said:


> I'm still waiting to see a full pic of a 120' white oak that's only 40" at the base.



imagine a tall straight white oak (forest style) with a wide split down the center 10feet long. both ends taper.

What more do you need to know?


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Aug 7, 2013)

Just not buyin' the 120'.... or the whole story to be honest.


----------



## Bandit Man (Aug 7, 2013)

TheJollyLogger said:


> I'm still waiting to see a full pic of a 120' white oak that's only 40" at the base.



I'm not sayin' the OP's tree ain't 120'. But if it is , it's the tallest white oak I've ever seen in that latitude. :msp_tongue:


----------



## KenJax Tree (Aug 7, 2013)

Agreed. No way in hell i'd tackle that job for 2k. I think he took that job and now realizes he's in way over his head.


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Aug 7, 2013)

I've seen a lot of climbers climb HUNDRED FOOT TREES!!!! ..... ddrt with a 120' climbing line... just sayin...


----------



## BC WetCoast (Aug 8, 2013)

Be nice to see more pics, but I would say that a 120' tree where the next closest tree is 70' away (unless I'm confused by his description of the site) is going to have enough momentum that it will not hang up. Make a big mess though.


----------



## sgreanbeans (Aug 8, 2013)

teiseman said:


> I have a 120' tall white oak about 40" diameter at base. Starting below the first large limb about 50' up a vertical crack runs up the center of the main trunk of the tree for 10' going well past the large limb. The crack is about 6" wide and you can see completely through to the other side. The crack tapers at both ends but looks likely to grow at each end. If a tree climber has experience with removing a tree like this advice is appreciated. Tree must come down in chunks. Bucket truck is not an option. Climbing nearby trees is not an option. My sense is to first lighten the load/ remove the previously mentioned large limb that is adjacent to the crack and which obviously caused the crack. I am really not sure about cutting the trunk above and below the split. We are dealing with a big oak here. Thanks in advance.



The answer to your simple question: Hire a pro that knows what he is doing to do it, watch him and take note, get him his smokes and a cold Pepsi, keep that brush clear and shut your mouth. 

Come here a obvious novice and be a douche to those who have epic skills, will not work in your favor, a little courtesy goes a long way.

Big oak, yeah.......... OK


----------



## woodchuck357 (Aug 8, 2013)

*Mabe this will help*



miko0618 said:


> was there a link to the TCIA article?



TCI Magazine Archives | Tree Care Industry Association


----------



## beastmaster (Aug 9, 2013)

I don't know how many times I look at a tree, decide on a method, climb the tree and based on different things I see and feel change my whole strategy for removal. How much more so from one little picture.
If the trees been like that for a while it's not likely to buckle from your weight when you climb it. But as soon as you start cutting on it removing limbs and cutting through stressed wood things start changing. I'm just saying what ever you do and decide on may have to be changed to plan B or C as conditions change in the tree.
Binding it, and supporting it if needed are just the basics. Trees going to decide what to do from then forward. If you had to climb it as you say and you decide to do it. I would climb it with a good pole saw and start wittering a way at it trying not to get it to off balanced. Climb high and make small cuts. Make a nest below to catch the chunks so they don't roll a way.
Good chance the trunk is split and still under tension, Having it well strapped helps but sometimes it'll pinch your saw. 
Any time you climb above a defect your taking a chance. I would have to be there and make that judgement my self based on many variables. Giving advice on climbing a potentially deadly tree over the internet is insane. I mean not for us, but for who ever is takeing it. It could go with out a hitch, probably will, but it could easyly go a way not even thought of yet. I might do it, but not for 1500.00


----------



## treesmith (Aug 9, 2013)

Sounds like one of them jobs where the first two questions are - "how much is my life worth" and "what could possibly go wrong". The Aussies use big ratchet straps on Mountain Ash because they split down the stem when chogging down, I've had finger thick birch limbs hold my weight and thigh thick oak limbs break on me, each tree is different even within the same species. If the tree can be reinforced mechanically to stop the split opening then ok, but there's always the bits you can't see, the crack could easily go another 10' in both directions, visual assessment is essential for anything more than vague direction. I haven't met a road yet that's worth more than me or that can't be protected. 

Good luck mate.


----------



## treeclimber101 (Aug 10, 2013)

I hate to see red names for new guys , I turned him neutral and within 20 seconds he was red again , I would say he may not come back. ...........


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Aug 10, 2013)

As soon as he said he was bound and determined to climb it no matter what I didn't figure he'd be back anyway.


----------



## woodchuck357 (Aug 23, 2013)

I just got back from a week in east Texas, I can see how it would be difficult for a Texan to believe in the tall slender oaks that grow in hollars around here!


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Aug 23, 2013)

Must not have gotten down to houston, plenty of tall slenders down there. But still not buyin that the tree he shot pictures of is 120. Jeff


----------



## Quikaj01 (Aug 23, 2013)

I can't stand it when someone new to the site comes in and acts like they own the place. A little introduction and respect go a long way! What a douche! JollyLogger is a pro, read some of his past posts helping out others..


----------



## woodchuck357 (Aug 24, 2013)

got muh firs saw las week, gonna tak a class to find out how to start it next month....


----------



## ddhlakebound (Aug 24, 2013)

woodchuck357 said:


> got muh firs saw las week, gonna tak a class to find out how to start it next month....



Oh yeah?

I dun learnt to fire my saw. 

All I need now is this new tool they got out, and I'm all set. It's called a frik-shun, or a fricks-ion. That's what the fella kept sayin' after that big limb smashed his smoker and grill. I'm all like, what's a frik-shun, and why do I need _some_? Isn't one enough?

Any body know where I can fetch me one up?


----------



## treeclimber101 (Aug 27, 2013)

Quikaj01 said:


> I can't stand it when someone new to the site comes in and acts like they own the place. A little introduction and respect go a long way! What a douche! JollyLogger is a pro, read some of his past posts helping out others..



You sir May have just earned the golden asskissing award, it will be on your doorstep in 4/6 weeks if I am right !


----------



## jefflovstrom (Aug 27, 2013)

treeclimber101 said:


> You sir May have just earned the golden asskissing award, it will be on your doorstep in 4/6 weeks if I am right !



We should all chip in and get him a [email protected]#$$$%%&&}+
Jeff


----------



## TheJollyLogger (Aug 27, 2013)

You guys are just mean! And the next guy that kisses my ass gets a fart in the face! And we eat a lot of beans down here, so that's a serious threat!


----------



## jefflovstrom (Aug 27, 2013)

TheJollyLogger said:


> You guys are just mean!



I am one of the nicest and respectful guy's here! 
BTW,,,I am not grumpy! 
Jeff :wink2:


----------

