# How to build a folding sawbuck



## blsnelling (Nov 27, 2013)

I am not the creator of these plans. I'm simply passing them along for your use. I have built a couple of these. They do work very well.


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## HuskStihl (Nov 27, 2013)

That would make for a nice video. Tight jeans and horizontally striped shirts also seem to sell saws pretty well


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## RedFir Down (Nov 27, 2013)

I was just thinking about building a sawbuck to keep my test logs off the ground!
This looks perfect, I'll add it to my winter project list.
Thank you Brad!


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## shootingarts (Nov 28, 2013)

Using a section of log with a v cut in the top of it right now and been figuring on building a slightly improved version out of boards and such. Good timing for me too when you posted this. Thanks!

Hu


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## CTYank (Nov 28, 2013)

The sheet-steel one the HF sells is a good option too. No tubafores in harm's way, that you have to duck the saw under, serrations from punching the steel before shearing it lets it grab the wood. Around $30.
Folds super-compact, too.
I often stack a lot of sticks on it and cut them en masse.


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## sachsmo (Nov 28, 2013)

Sawbucks are fer cookie cutters, or the urban gentleman firewood cutter.

Who has time to levitate yur firewood logs?

Time you doink around puttin' yur stuff on that I'll have half a truck load bucked and ready to load!


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## gmax (Nov 28, 2013)

Sawbucks would be good for shooting some cookie cutting videos but other than that they're waste of time.


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## exSW (Nov 28, 2013)

Tough crowd


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## sachsmo (Nov 28, 2013)

exSW said:


> Tough crowd




Yup!

not alot of folks hang here that would get a manicure either.


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## LowVolt (Nov 28, 2013)

I built one last winter. I am by no means a seasoned woodworker but if you just think about the design a minute and have a couple hours you can whip one of these up.

Yes I do live in the city, but have not gotten a manicure.......yet.

You know this is a chainsaw site right? We got builders porting saws, cutting logs/cants to see the effects of their mods. We also have guys trying out their saws that they have recently been fixed/rebuilt. We got guys that will host gtg's that will build multiple saw bucks to use at there event. And the list goes on and on. Saw bucks for city folk yuppies? I think not.


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## sachsmo (Nov 28, 2013)

Not all of us country gents have a loader to put decent sized logs up on one
O' those things.

Guess it works fine fer makin' cookies, or showin' off.

I see no real purpose other than dat.


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## bryanr2 (Nov 28, 2013)

im a serious firewood hoarder. I only bother with big logs that yield the most firewood for the effort- basically stuff that has to be halfed or quartered to handle. But for those that like to post videos on here- this should be on their build list immediately. It is a lot cheaper to build than going to the emergency room to stitch up your foot.

Thanks for the intructions Brad. I dont make videos or cut cookies but Im gonna build one of these with a couple alterations to use as a hay feeder with my Boer goats.


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## sachsmo (Nov 28, 2013)

Any one can look like a pro cutting stuff on a sawbuck.

In the real world the wood is often under tension/load. a real cutter has to learn to read either condition a adjust accordingly.


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## ash man (Nov 28, 2013)

Who doesn't like to cut a few cookies every once in a while. I'm just glad you included pictures I was worried at first when all I saw was small print.


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## bryanr2 (Nov 28, 2013)

sachsmo said:


> Any one can look like a pro cutting stuff on a sawbuck.
> 
> In the real world the wood is often under tension/load. a real cutter has to learn to read either condition a adjust accordingly.



This is very true- I have cut hundreds of cords of wood without ever needing one. However, on AS- I see a use for a sawbuck especially for those that post videos. I think it'd work great cutting a "bunch" of peckerwood poles all at once. And it will make a fantastic hay feeder.


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## exSW (Nov 28, 2013)

bryanr2 said:


> but Im gonna build one of these with a couple alterations to use as a hay feeder with my Boer goats.


If they are anything like mine they will appreciate the bed
you built for them.Try using hay nets like the horse folks use.


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## shootingarts (Nov 28, 2013)

After a half-dozen or so back injuries I ain't quite as manly a man as I once was. Not nearly as quick to bend over and try to pick something heavy up from ground level either! As a result I let John(Deere) do most of the work hefting long log sections into the truck or onto the trailer.

When I get the wood to the barn it is nice to have something the same height as the truck bed or very close to it to help hold the long log sections to make them a more usable size. Never dirted a chain cutting on a sawbuck either, something I can't say about cutting up logs on the ground! The sawbuck has everything that can damage a chain well out the way making it somewhat sacrificial, fine by me.

The way I handle wood I never have to bend, squat, or reach to handle most of it. Even healthy folk will find they are more inclined to go shoot pool and party at the end of the day if they don't work harder than they have to in order to get the job done. Learned that a long time before I was hurt.

Hu


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## zogger (Nov 28, 2013)

gmax said:


> Sawbucks would be good for shooting some cookie cutting videos but other than that they're waste of time.



I frequently haul back a lot of long branches that are thrown on top of the big rounds in the trailer. Looks useful for those.


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## sachsmo (Nov 28, 2013)

Different strokes fer different folks.

I'm sure they have their place, just not fer me personally?


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## zogger (Nov 28, 2013)

sachsmo said:


> Different strokes fer different folks.
> 
> I'm sure they have their place, just not fer me personally?



Ya, pretty much. a sawbuck has been used for centuries, some people have found them useful for some cutting chores.


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## cowroy (Nov 28, 2013)

I have been wanting to make one about 17" long for a while because I have friends that have called me asking if I want the wood they have paid to get cut down in their yards. Sure I want it, so I tell them to either leave it all for me to cut up or cut around 16"-18". Every time they cut it too long to fit in my stove, so it would be handy to have a little saw buck to just lay it in and cut. Definitely nice for saw vids too.


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## Duane(Pa) (Nov 28, 2013)

When I was in college, I could never get ahead on firewood. On the weekend, I would be lucky to get a load of poles on the trailer. I would then buck them, on a SAWBUCK, as I had precious time throughout the week. Thanks for posting, mine's about junk these days and I need to make a new one. I can't believe some of the negativity in this thread. Dang. Oh, and THANKS seems appropriate. DW


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## blsnelling (Nov 28, 2013)

CTYank said:


> The sheet-steel one the HF sells is a good option too. No tubafores in harm's way, that you have to duck the saw under, serrations from punching the steel before shearing it lets it grab the wood. Around $30.
> Folds super-compact, too.
> I often stack a lot of sticks on it and cut them en masse.


I agree entirely. However, they do have their place for those that need to test or demonstrate a saw.


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## MarkEagleUSA (Nov 28, 2013)

As with everything in this life, people always think their way is better. If something like this works for you, fine. If not, move on. There's no need for negative comments, my way is better than yours, Husqy vs. Stihl, or whatever else comes along.

I think we need a new oil thread to create a diversion.


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## bryanr2 (Nov 28, 2013)

exSW said:


> If they are anything like mine they will appreciate the bed
> you built for them.Try using hay nets like the horse folks use.



I have yet to come up with a good feeder system that keeps them out of the hay. I had built some large hay feeders and had 6'' cattle panel across the front. One of my yearling does (which was the prettiest dapple color/pattern I have ever seen) got her head caught in it. The others panicked with her cries for help and started butting her in the side trying to free her. She wound up getting her neck broke. Broke our hearts to loose that litle doe. Buried her back in my wood lot processing area.


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## ash man (Nov 28, 2013)

I could have used a saw horse a while back when I was timing cuts against my buddies 260 pro. My ne 346 probably would have Beaten him even worse if we weren't cutting logs on the pile.


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## zogger (Nov 28, 2013)

bryanr2 said:


> I have yet to come up with a good feeder system that keeps them out of the hay. I had built some large hay feeders and had 6'' cattle panel across the front. One of my yearling does (which was the prettiest dapple color/pattern I have ever seen) got her head caught in it. The others panicked with her cries for help and started butting her in the side trying to free her. She wound up getting her neck broke. Broke our hearts to loose that litle doe. Buried her back in my wood lot processing area.



At the stock auction place here they have like an overhead wide V shaped bin, opened at the bottom, and a regular trough underneath. The goats have to reach up and yank hay out, and any that spills falls into the trough. I don't know if it is perfect or not, but seems to work, I watched some goats feeding from it before.


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## CTYank (Nov 28, 2013)

Not being a wood snob, I process everything possible down to about 2" diameter. From 2" up to about 5" I cut into 6' poles for quick loading into p/u. The larger sticks go onto sawbuck in a pile. The metal NT one works pretty well to keep them from spinning. Works well and safely, for me and the saw. I don't cut no steeenkin' cookies- that's saw abuse.


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## andydodgegeek (Nov 28, 2013)

I cut a lot of fire wood and I also enjoy playing with my saws. I recently welded up a nice aluminum sawbuck at work, its nice for cutting small sticks or I can put a big one on it with the Skidsteer and use it for playing or tuning a saw. I think its cool people race and play with saws. Some of you might think its a waste of wood or gas, but its my gas and wood. Cookies burn real good in the boiler.


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## lone wolf (Nov 28, 2013)

sachsmo said:


> Yup!
> 
> not alot of folks hang here that would get a manicure either.


Tree cutter not hair cutter.


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## Mastermind (Nov 28, 2013)

You did a damn good job putting that thing together Brad.......


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## Hinerman (Nov 28, 2013)

Mastermind said:


> You did a damn good job putting that thing together Brad.......



Yes he did,,,,no surprise there though...


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## Rockjock (Nov 28, 2013)

While I was in Germany I saw many of the sawbucks , different styles and shapes. Pretty much most people had them because the wood is split to 2 meter lengths and then cut via the buck..

I used a few like these.


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## naturelover (Nov 28, 2013)

Work good for candles...


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## Philbert (Feb 21, 2014)

Here is a low tech, easy to build folding sawhorse. I have made them in a few sizes, mostly from scrap wood.
You can use a 'T' nut to make the bolt less of a target. The plywood braces are more rigid than 1x material (especially if you use construction adhesive) and prevent racking.

Note that the top of the plywood also butts against the upper log supports - this limits how wide the sawbuck will open, without the need for chain or rope at the bottom.




I like the one Rockjock posted. NT has a version they sell.



Oregon also has one they sell in Europe, but not in the US - I asked Bailey's if they would look into carrying it.




Philbert


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## Rockjock (Feb 21, 2014)

Philbert said:


> Here is a low tech, easy to build folding sawhorse. I have made them in a few sizes, mostly from scrap wood.
> You can use a 'T' nut to make the bolt less of a target,
> 
> View attachment 334927
> ...



I tell ya they are super handy! I have even seem much bigger ones that hold 6-8 foot logs. they have their place for sure.


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## Philbert (Mar 14, 2014)

Updating some missing photos from other threads. Here is a photo of a larger version.

Oval hole is a hand hold for carrying it when folded. Round hole is for hanging from a hook in the wall when stored in the garage

Philbert


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## Philbert (Jul 16, 2014)

Follow up on Oregon Sawbuck in post #35;

http://www.oregonproducts.eu/site/6_flipbooks/CAT/EN/#66



Philbert


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## oldboyscout (Jul 23, 2014)

Thanks brad and everyone for the ideas. I use a sawbuck for branches about 2" to 5" diameter. It's much faster, neater and SAFER this way. I wish I had access to as much free firewood as I need, but I have to use even the scraps I can get.


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## Jeff Lary (Jul 23, 2014)

naturelover said:


> Work good for candles...


Question I am going to make a few of those and I was wondering how do you get the fire started down in the center ? Do you stuff some newspaper and shaving in on top of the paper? use a little oil fill me in. It looks like the place for the fire would have no room for kindling of any kind, is newspaper enough to get one going ?


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## Snap (Jan 3, 2015)

Thought I'd resurrect this to get some opinions on the location of the upper horizontal braces (doen 2" from the tops of legs) on the original plan.
Do their locations near the tops of the legs hinder cutting within the sawbuck?

There was a very similar plan that seemed to have those upper horizontals much lower so I wondered if perhaps lowering the upper braces might help in that respect.
(grampa's super sawbuck, copyrighted ) 

Any opinions?


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## Philbert (Jan 3, 2015)

All of my horizontal cross bracing (plywood) is below the pivot point to clear the saw. They are actually placed to butt against the upright from the other side, holding it open at a set angle.

Philbert


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## Snap (Jan 3, 2015)

Philbert said:


> All of my horizontal cross bracing (plywood) is below the pivot point to clear the saw. They are actually placed to butt against the upright from the other side, holding it open at a set angle.
> 
> Philbert



Thanks but I was referring to the plan at the beginning of the thread. It requires horizontals above the pivot to support the partial length upprights.

You have a good idea but I'm already committed to some variant of the original plan.
I want to leave it outdoors and plywood doesn't last more than a few seasons outside around here.


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## Philbert (Jan 3, 2015)

Snap said:


> Thanks . . . You have a good idea but I'm already committed to some variant of the original plan.



No problems. Both the 'original' plan, and 'Grandpa's' have those cross braces, and per your original question, yes, lower is better. You will see the log hanging off the end to be cut in the original plan, and 'Grandpa' stacking his wood high to avoid these braces. But in Grandpa's later plans, he also has the clear uprights to let you cut in between them. The advantage of making your own is that you get to make it your own!

I made my sawbucks to fold, so they don't stay outside, and out of free or scrap materials, so even if they get cut, or only last a few years, they are easy to replace.

Please post photos of your build when finished.

Philbert


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## Snap (Jan 4, 2015)

I guess another pair of legs would allow moving the upper braces down to or below the pivot.
Seems more functional up top but six feet are less likely to all sit on uneven ground as well as four feet.


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## Snap (Jan 8, 2015)

No great shakes....Like the original plan with dropped upper braces with the thoughts of allowing inside cuts too.
Seems like it will work.

Tried to extend the bottoms of the movable inner uprights down and moving the upper horizontal braces down to hold them from below the pivot point to really free up the inner areas for cutting, but it turned out to make poor alignment at the tops of the uprights due to the natural variable wows of each of the pieces.

Also I am thinking that ropes might make better ties at the base rather than chains to allow a bit of movement of the legs to accommodate uneven ground. Having the fixed chain lengths with no give makes for a bit of rocking at times.


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## Philbert (Jan 8, 2015)

Very nice looking!

You mentioned outdoor exposure - what type of wood is that? Did you consider any diagonal bracing to prevent 'racking'?

Philbert


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## Snap (Jan 8, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Very nice looking!
> You mentioned outdoor exposure - what type of wood is that? Did you consider any diagonal bracing to prevent 'racking'?
> Philbert



It's untreated doug-fir but the fresh cuts have all been painted to try to protect the more vulnerable surfaces.
I figured it was a learning experience version and can one day be kindling.
PT would be heavy to lug around and it's frowned upon in our locality now. There is no local disposal of the stuff anymore, so once it's bought it's on the property forever.
I hadn't thought of it but there is a native lumber mill a few miles up the road that might have something suitable for next time.

It hasn't had a test run yet but it would be easy enough to add a couple more horizontals below the pivot to steady it up if needed. Also, snugging up the legs against the dowel using plate washers on the dowels and pins through the dowel would probably help in that respect.


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## Hinerman (Jan 8, 2015)

Snap said:


> Thought I'd resurrect this to get some opinions on the location of the upper horizontal braces (doen 2" from the tops of legs) on the original plan.
> *Do their locations near the tops of the legs hinder cutting within the sawbuck? Any opinions?*


 
Yes, I see no possible way to cut logs on top of this saw buck. It is designed to hold logs only with the intention of cutting the portion of the log hanging over the side of the saw buck.


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## kyle1! (Jan 8, 2015)

Just move those 2..2x4 horizontal braces on top down farther on the angled pieces and remember that only a certain size log can be used inside without cutting into the stand.


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## Snap (Jan 8, 2015)

I think it may work as it's shown with a bit of care cutting.
I'm picturing a pile of limbs in the cradle.

The top horizontals don't want to go much lower because then they will act like they did when they were tried under the pivots. The natural bows of the uprights get accentuated when they hang farther past the horizontal supports and may not provide anticipated support.
Ideal alignment of all the uprights happens using the original plan with the horizontals at the very top with no overhang of the uprights, but then I really don't see any cutting inside between the outer pairs of legs.

PS: Thanks for the idea Brad.


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 8, 2015)

Nice design, but why make it fold? The volume savings seems rather minimal. Rigidity and strength at the crossing joints and laterally seems far more important. I could make an identical but non-folding cross buck as shown by OP that's much more rigid with only 8 pieces and fasteners. It would be strong as an ox and even weigh less.


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## Philbert (Jan 8, 2015)

Wood Doctor said:


> Nice design, but why make it fold?



Mine folds for storage in the garage, when not needed; to make it easier to carry to other parts of the yard; and to throw in the back of the station wagon when cutting somewhere else. Probably not an important feature if you have a permanent wood cutting area or shed.

Philbert


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 8, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Mine folds for storage in the garage, when not needed; to make it easier to carry to other parts of the yard; and to throw in the back of the station wagon when cutting somewhere else. Probably not an important feature if you have a permanent wood cutting area or shed.
> 
> Philbert


Strength and rigidity seem more important to me regardless. I seldom move mine and usually I can strap it above the load of wood in the truck. And, with just 8 pieces with still a triple cross, I can also make it lighter in weight.


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## Philbert (Jan 8, 2015)

Wood Doctor said:


> Strength and rigidity seem more important to me regardless . . . . And, with just 8 pieces with still a triple cross, I can also make it lighter in weight.



Mine is rock solid with the plywood (photos in Posts #35 and 37) - like 'unitized construction'. Works for me. But I would love to also see photos of yours!

Philbert


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## Snap (Jan 8, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Mine is rock solid with the plywood (photos in Posts #35 and 37) - like 'unitized construction'. Works for me. But I would love to also see photos of yours!
> Philbert



Plywood sheathing makes very rigid construction.
We use plywood shearwalls to brace buildings and it is a very efficient solution structurally.


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## Snap (Jan 8, 2015)

I like the folding aspect just for the fact that it makes it easy to get a shoulder under it to move it around.


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 9, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Mine is rock solid with the plywood (photos in Posts #35 and 37) - like 'unitized construction'. Works for me. But I would love to also see photos of yours!
> 
> Philbert


Well, I built a new 2-crossbar sawbuck last fall that only used 6 pieces, and it's really strong. A 3-crossbar unit would simply add two more pieces and require longer horizontal connecting rails.

The secret to strength and lightness is the joinery. The rails must lock together with the uprights using dadoes cut into both the uprights and the rails about 5/8" deep. The outer ends of the rails project out about 1" beyond the uprights. This requires some accurately cut notches using a stacked dado blade and several passes. Screws and glue tie it all together.

One enhancement I like about OP's sawbuck is that he tapered the top ends of the uprights. That increases log capacity without any significant loss in strength. I have no choice but to pirate that idea. And, I have always dropped the rails below the top V, otherwise they are in the way. The notched joinery reduces the number of rails from four to two.


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## Philbert (Jan 9, 2015)

Wood Doctor said:


> Well, I built a new 2-crossbar sawbuck last fall that only used 6 pieces, and it's really strong.



*Pictures!!! We need pictures!!!*



Wood Doctor said:


> The secret to strength and lightness is the joinery. The rails must lock together with the uprights using dadoes cut into both the uprights and the rails about 5/8" deep. The outer ends of the rails project out about 1" beyond the uprights.



*Photos!!! Illustrations!!! Graphics!!!*



Wood Doctor said:


> And, I have always dropped the rails below the top V, otherwise they are in the way. The notched joinery reduces the number of rails from four to two.



Seriously, I would love to see your design and detail mentioned. Mine were knocked together pretty quickly, with just a little care in alignment, from scrap materials, as I figure that they will get nicked, cut, exposed to the elements, etc. I did not even bother to stain or seal them, which would be a simple thing to extend their useful life. But they spend most of their time indoors, and just left out in the elements occassionally.

I left the bottoms of the feet 'pointy', instead of mitering them flat, because I expect them to mostly sit on soil or grass, and this might help keep them from moving. But they work fine on pavement as well.

Philbert


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## Snap (Jan 9, 2015)




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## Wood Doctor (Jan 9, 2015)

OK, give me a couple a days or so to get the Pics of the newer one ready. Two or three shots should do it. BTW, painting them helps make them last much longer. Mine is always stored outside near the woodpile.

Another tip. Mine doubles as a temporary bundling rack for tying up campfire bundles--8 to 9 logs apiece.


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