# Stihl 028 WB Rebuild | Full Restoration



## Cardston (May 14, 2014)

Hi All! I just started a rebuild of Stihl 028 WB and then it occurred to me that there are probably forums where I could post the progress as well as get advice along the way. Google brought me here and I've spent several hours perusing all the great information that can be found here. So yeah, I'm new here 

*Background*
In 1979 my family moved into a new house that had a wood burning stove. I was 12 at the time and my dad bought a new chainsaw to cut wood for the stove. He would drag me along in the summer and we would fell trees, cut and split the wood and haul it home. I have a lot of good memories from the 3 or 4 years that we spent doing that.

Fast forward to 15 years ago when a windstorm blew down several trees on either end of the street that I lived on, blocking all the cars. The city was inundated with cleanup and it would be several days before they could get to our street. My dad came by, brought his saw and helped me clear the trees. When we were done, he gave the saw to me as he didn't need it anymore. The saw has sat unused these 15 years since that day and I've since moved into a home with a proper fireplace. I've been looking at new chainsaws to stock up on some wood and then it occurred to me that maybe the old saw would be worth fixing, but I figured it had seen better days and probably wouldn't even run.

*Condition*
I doubt the saw has much more than 100 hours on it, but my father has never been one to really care about taking care of his tools. He would throw the saw in the back of the pickup and I would hear it bouncing the 30 or 40 miles home on our trips. I remember thinking at the time, "that can't be good for the saw". Fortunately, or unfortunately, depending on your point of view, I got the OCD gene and keep all my tools & power tools well maintained. I have a 13 year old Honda Commercial mower that every year one of my neighbors comments on my "new" mower.

I pulled the saw out and it was a real mess. I took the bar and chain off and then pulled the spark plug and looked into the cylinder. I was expecting rust, but it was bright shiny metal! Maybe there was hope. I emptied the old gas out and added some non-ethanol mixture along with a capful of Berryman B12 Chemtool. It took 5 or 6 pulls but it finally choked to life. I could feel good compression on the pulls, so that was a good sign. Thick black & gray smoke poored out of it and it chugged along for several minutes. After about 5 minutes of me revving it, but not to full throttle and then letting it idle, the smoke cleared up and it ran quite smoothly. I worked it up to full throttle. I was shocked by how loud and torque-y (new word?) it was. Honestly, it felt better in my hands than a couple of the new saws I had checked out. And the sound and smell instantly brought back memories with my dad. So I have no choice-I have to restore this baby.

*Goal*
I'd like to restore it to as new of condition as possible including cosmetically, if for no other reason than I like my tools to look nice. Some parts are no longer made, so that presents a challenge. I may look into getting the frame and tank media blasted and then powder coated. If anybody has experience or insight on re-powdercoating, I'd appreciate hearing from you.

*Let's get started*
I had already done some clean up on the saw when I thought to look for a forum. So I don't have any pictures from the original condition. Drat. But it was a real mess. Here's where I'm at now.

Pulled the plastics. I had to cut the top one off as the screw attachment to the cylinder head was froze. Once I cut it off I used some pliers to torque the screw out. I didn't strip out the threads-so good. I've done some clean up on the chassis at this point. Pulled the clutch drum and oil pump gear. Pulled the muffler.
















Pretty cool. Made in West Germany.










The chains and bar have seen better days.





The chain catcher was broken when I pulled it off.






The chain adjuster bolt was bent too. How does this even happen?





Cleaned up the clutch drum and oil gear. They look almost new. The good thing on the inside of the clutch drum is that there is almost no wear on it. I can't see or feel a groove or depression.





So that's where I'm at. I've started a long parts list and my local Stihl dealer has already placed the first of what I'm sure will be many orders. I'll probably end up paying as much or more in time and money as I would to buy a new one. But from the nostalgia point of view, it doesn't really matter and it will be a fun project.

I welcome all your advice and critiques and look forward to them.

-Dan


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## redfin (May 14, 2014)

Welcome, it looks like you have a very good handle on your restore. The bar adjustment screw was probably bent from the bar being pinched and the operator trying to muscle the saw out.


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## Duane(Pa) (May 14, 2014)

Welcome to AS! I am an 028 lover. Like you, I didn't take any before pix of my first 028, but it cleaned up real nice and I found it very nice to use. I just like the feel of an 028. This is by no means an origanal quote but "028's have cut cubic miles of firewood". Should be no problem to find good used parts. As far as the rubber parts go, I would just buy new. Have fun! DW


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## Chris_In_VT (May 14, 2014)

redfin said:


> The bar adjustment screw was probably bent from the bar being pinched and the operator trying to muscle the saw out.



And on that model of Stihl, that can lead to a torn intake boot.
I got 3 028's a while back, and a parts saw. Ended up making two good out of the whole pile. Three of them had torn intake boots. If the upper rubber AV mount is a little worn or loose, or the saw is yanked on, the intake boot can tear, usually underneath where you can't see it. I would check that boot out if I was you.

Looks like a nice 028 though! Old enough to have the metal fuel tank and no chain brake it seems?


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## HD2010 (May 14, 2014)

The 028 is a great saw. Very easy to work on and parts are still available. I really enjoy fixing these up, nothing better than getting a 20-30 old saw running well. Have fun with this one.


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## Cardston (May 14, 2014)

All-thanks for the welcome. 

Chris in VT - So you have spare parts laying aroung?  I'd planned on replacing all the rubber & plastic. When I pulled the fuel tank vent line it literally disintegrated into several pieces. 34+ year old rubber... oh and yeah, metal fuel tank and no chain brake.


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## Cardston (May 14, 2014)

I've pulled the oil pump and cleaned everything with solvent again. I'm using some amazing but very nasty stuff, perchloroethylene. It's basically drycleaning fluid in an aerosal can. It melts through crud, grime & grease like nobody's business. But I use a ventilator and capture the runoff over a bucket for disposal. It's expensive too, about $10/can, but look at the no scrub results.











After removing the throttle assembly, I have run into my first problem/challenge. The carb is stuck good. I've removed the carburetor nuts and dropped the fuel line. I can't pull the impulse line until the carb slides off a little. But the carb is stuck solid. I gave it a couple light taps with a hammer-but nothing. I don't want to risk damaging the carb. Ideas?


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## old-cat (May 14, 2014)

Here's a wild idea. Clamp the saw down, get a 16 penny nail, clamp vise grips to the sharp end. Put the head behind the carb and pull.


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## Chris_In_VT (May 14, 2014)

Hey Cardston, sorry, I actually don't have any more spare parts lying around. After I put the two saws together, I gathered up the picked parts saws and loose parts, put it all in a box, and brought it to the chainsawr's shop. He's not too far from me. Tons of older saw parts, used saw parts, everything chainsaw. Great shop. Anyways, they gave me store credit on all the parts and I got a 20" Oregon powermatch bar and LGX chain for my Jred 2171. I was happy!

On the carb being stuck- check and see if either the L or H jet screw is out far enough to catch on the carb box. Screw it in if it is. I remember when I pulled the carbs off my 028's they were on real good the first time. I used a screwdriver and pried it out using the fuel line inlet for leverage.... 
If the two nuts are off, then it's the throttle linkage, fuel+impulse line that's left to "hold" it on.

Also a note on parts- one of the parts -028's I had was an older saw- metal tank, no chainbrake. The other two saws were slightly different as well. Stihl made the 028 from the late 70's to the early 2000's? I believe. Correct me if i'm wrong (sawtroll)? Many updates and changes over the years. So you will want to make sure what you're getting will fit. The recoil cover was different, mufflers different, even some of the displacements are different.


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## Chris_In_VT (May 14, 2014)

Oh yeah, that cleaner stuff looks like it works really good- saw looks nice!


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## rbmopar (May 14, 2014)

The bar adjuster bolt gets bent when the side cover is tightened down without having the adjuster lined up with the hole in the bar.


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## Cardston (May 14, 2014)

rbmopar said:


> The bar adjuster bolt gets bent when the side cover is tightened down without having the adjuster lined up with the hole in the bar.


That seems the likely cause to me. Thanks.


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## Cardston (May 15, 2014)

Finally got the carb out, a Tillotsen HU-40A. It was stuck to the intake boot pretty good. The carb cleaned up nice and the date wheel on the body casting shows "79" so 35 years old. I ordered a rebuild kit off eBay tonight.


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## LegDeLimber (May 15, 2014)

A fine first post!
Much much better than mine was.

My money is on the adjuster being misaligned when the cover was tightened.
it's bent at the end of its travel and the scrapes on it are pretty classic of that scenario.
Then the condition of bar & chain along with your background details of usage
leans that direction too.
But I'll have to defer to the folks who actually know the saw
to offer your guidance on the specifics of the restoration.


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## Stihl-man (May 15, 2014)

Hi Cardston. I'm doing my first rebuild, too. There are some really helpful videos on "U"-tube like this guy (except that he calls the bar a "blade"?)



Beware, there always seems to be somebody on here that will criticize you or your saw. Don't let those turkeys keep you away. There are mostly awesome people here with much saw knowledge!


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## Cardston (May 15, 2014)

@LegDeLimber - very kind of you to say.

@Stihl-man - Funny thing I just found the donnyboy youtube videos a couple days ago. There's certainly no end to the great info on saws & maintenance on the web. My carb is a Tillotson, not a Walbro, but I've found videos on rebuilding my model.


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## Cardston (May 15, 2014)

Yanked the AV rubbers out last night and separated the crankcase from the tank/handle part of the case.





I pulled all the plugs, hoses, etc and then cleaned up all the oil & sawdust from the tank/handle. It is amazingly light! I believe it's magnesium from the research I've done.





It took a bit of work to clean up the vent line nipple. It had the remains of the disintegrated hose stuck to it. Q-tips, toothbrush and solvent and it's shiny stainless now. Cleaned the gunk out of the inside of the nipple with some wire.






The intake boot is in amazing shape. It cleaned up nice and the rubber still bends and flexes like new. I probably won't end up replacing if after all.


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## Wood Doctor (May 15, 2014)

Hate to be a gadfly, but it seems like you could have cleaned this saw up cosmetically and never dismantled it for a complete rebuild. Did you say that it failed to start and run? Lots of times I do simple clean ups on saws along with routine maintenance, and suddenly they roar to life.

Local expression: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."


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## Cardston (May 15, 2014)

Wood Doctor said:


> Hate to be a gadfly, but it seems like you could have cleaned this saw up cosmetically and never dismantled it for a complete rebuild. Did you say that it failed to start and run? Lots of times I do simple clean ups on saws along with routine maintenance, and suddenly they roar to life.
> 
> Local expression: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."


The reason I'm restoring the saw the way that I am is probably similar to why Chip Foose restores cars the way he does.


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## Wood Doctor (May 16, 2014)

Cardston said:


> The reason I'm restoring the saw the way that I am is probably similar to why Chip Foose restores cars the way he does.


OK, I stand corrected. Sometimes I'm too much of a pragmatist. It's a great hobby. I get a lot of enjoyment out of just taking a saw that does not run and/or has not run for years and bringing it back to life. The astonished look and smile on the owner's face (including my own) is almost reward enough on its own.


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## Cardston (May 16, 2014)

Wood Doctor said:


> OK, I stand corrected. Sometimes I'm too much of a pragmatist. It's a great hobby. I get a lot of enjoyment out of just taking a saw that does not run and/or has not run for years and bringing it back to life. The astonished look and smile on the owner's face (including my own) is almost reward enough on its own.


It was a valid question. I've always been curious about how things work. I rebuilt a Chevy 350 engine years ago in high school, but 2 strokes have always been an enigma to me. So I'll learn as I go. It ran great as I mentioned in the opening post, but that's not deterring me from a full tear down and rebuild/restore.


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## rednecksawman (May 16, 2014)

I just built a couple of 028s the couple of things I would replace is the fuel line and filter impulse line and crankseals I just rebuilt 2 028 supers and now I have a 028wb to build


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## rednecksawman (May 16, 2014)

one of the 028 supers has the side tensioner on it I haven't seen a lot of those.


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## Cardston (May 16, 2014)

Here is last night's progress. I pulled the jar and the cylinder wall looks great-nice and shiny, no scoring or damage. Measured the cylinder, I've got the 42mm.

There was quite a bit of carbon build up on the piston head. I don't know if that is normal or indicative of a problem. In the images below I've already cleaned up a lot of the carbon, but there is still some pesky stuff that won't go away. Any recommendations on the best way to remove it?

I cleaned up the gasket mating surfaces on the jar with some 400 wet/dry stuck to a flat piece of granite.

*Question*-Does anybody have a source for an original service manual for an 028 WB? Since I'm going to be splitting the crankcase and I've already pulled the jar, I'll need specs. My local Stihl dealer told me they aren't available anymore. And a quick check on eBay shows quite a few of what look to be photocopied manuals. I'd rather not give $20 to someone who spent 50 cents at Kinkos making copies.

Serial # 6038845.


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## Cardston (May 16, 2014)

Splitting the crankcase took some doing, but it didn't end up being as hard as I thought it would.

Now I have 3 pieces ready for dry ice blasting and then some new powder coating.


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## Cardston (May 19, 2014)

I've contacted 2 different dry ice blasting since last Friday and both said they don't have very good success when trying to remove old powder coat. I think sandblasting the parts is not a good option due to the media residue that get's left behind. I wouldn't want anything in the crank case or oil reservoir to cause damage. So it looks like my only option at this point is soda blasting, but I can't get a hold of the only local guy that soda blasts. He never picks up the phone and hasn't returned my calls since last Saturday...

Anyone have experience re-powdercoating a saw?? Would love some advice...

I've stripped, cleaned and repainted 2 of the 3 parts of the muffler. Used Rust-Oleum High Heat paint.





Still in the process of cleaning up the third muffler part. I kind of like the bare metal look.





Flywheel is ready go. Spent nearly an hour cleaning it up with solvent, Q-tips and compressed air.





And the first of the replacement parts have begun to trickle in. I scored a find on the bar. One of my local Stihl dealers still had a Wood Boss logo bar. I don't think they are made anymore although I think it's just a Rollomatic E, with the different logo on it. But it should look good on a 028 WB, at least until it's cut a cord of wood or so


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## Gravedigger (May 19, 2014)

love reading rebuilds


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## HD2010 (May 19, 2014)

Looks great man.

PM sent on manuals.


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## Cardston (May 19, 2014)

HD2010 said:


> Looks great man.
> 
> PM sent on manuals.


Thanks!


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## Duane(Pa) (May 19, 2014)

Get ahold of glock37 (member here). He has a fleet of Stihls that he powder coated in his brother's shop. I saw them at the Pa. GTG and they are nice!


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## Cardston (May 19, 2014)

Duane(Pa) said:


> Get ahold of glock37 (member here). He has a fleet of Stihls that he powder coated in his brother's shop. I saw them at the Pa. GTG and they are nice!


Right on... gracias!


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## towingace (May 19, 2014)

Good thread! My first build was also a 028. I can't believe that saw of yours ran at all with that fuel line! Also, considering all that rolling around in the truck, it looks pretty darn good (truck had a plastic bedliner maybe)? The 42mm was the earliest version, then they increased the bore to 44mm, the Super's have a 46mm bore. I built my saw out of three donors plus a p/c off of evil-bay and, like has already been stated, there's lots of variations. For example, I almost didn't notice that the 42mm wrist pin was shorter than the 44mm one! I stihl run that saw, like was said, they are very reliable. I've got quite a few parts left over, actually parts are everywhere for them. As for that bar you found, if it was me, I wouldn't put a scratch on it! Most guys on here aren't into "Chip Foose" type appearance (I said most), but that bar would complement your powder coat job, nicely. Anyway, nice job of posting pics, and welcome.


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## glock37 (May 19, 2014)

Saw looks good You doing besrings seals gaskets rings Port it ?


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## Cardston (May 20, 2014)

Duane(Pa) turned me on to glock37 for the powdercoating. Thanks Duane! Mike (nice guy) and I spoke on the phone last night about what I was looking for. The work he did on blsnelling's 041G is amazing. Take a look at the finished saw on page 6. It's exactly what I am looking for. So this morning I bubble wrapped all the parts and sent them off to lovely Pennsylvania. He'll be doing the tank/handle, crankcase, both the clutch and starter cover. I also sent the handle for some new glossy black PC. After looking at the muffler for awhile last night I decided I want to go with the bare metal look, or at least see what it looks like once bead blasted. So all three parts of the muffler went too.

In sending the parts, I wanted to make it as easy to blast and powder coat as possible, so I pulled off all the parts that can be replaced. It took some work to get the carburetor bolts off the fuel tank/handle. I added some heat with a torch and they finally came free. I also pulled the starter bushing out of the starter cover. Less stuff to mask off on the parts.





On the inside of the clutch cover I pulled the rivets and removed the parts there too. It may have been a mistake destroying the inner side plate. I don't see it on the IPL, and can't find a part #.






All of the pieces look pretty good for new powdercoat once they've been bead blasted except for the clutch cover. There were some pretty deep groove/gouges on the rim around the bar bolt holes and along the front and bottom edges. So I went to town with a file and 220 wet/dry and cleaned it up a little. I couldn't get rid of the gouges above the bolt holes completely without removing more material than I wanted, but once PC'd it should be barely noticeable.









Cleaned up the bottom of the handle a bit too





Starter cover is in very good shape.





The starter bushing is out.


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## Cardston (May 25, 2014)

It will be a couple weeks before I get the parts back from powdercoating, so there won't be much happening in this thread for awhile. I've been able track down all but three of the replacement parts I need. I have an email in to Stihl to help me determine the correct part numbers. I'm working off an IPL that is dated 07/2004 and it doesn't show any of the 42mm bore parts or numbers that are specific to the early model that I have.

About 2/3 of the parts I need are still (amazingly) available from Stihl. It's taken some detective work to find the obsolete parts, I've tracked them down on eBay or from dealers that have old stock.

I've decided to replace most of the bolts & screws on the saw. The majority of the original bolts & screws are slotted. There are a few hex heads too, but I'm converting all to Torx for the sake of consistency.

New parts!


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## glock37 (May 25, 2014)

42 mm bore not 44 mm 


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## Cardston (May 25, 2014)

glock37 said:


> 42 mm bore not 44 mm



???


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## glock37 (May 25, 2014)

I m workin on a 028 and it 44 mm i didnt think 028 where 42 check piston and cyl again. 


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## glock37 (May 25, 2014)

I check there is a 42 mm 028 if cant find one go with a 44 or 46 mm jug and piston 


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## Cardston (May 26, 2014)

Cleaning up some parts this morning.... While using a stainless wire wheel to clean up one of the AV mounts, I was struck by the quality of this part. 12 gauge steel, 34+ years old. Looks brand new and ready to go back on the saw with the new torx bolts.


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## wkmincey (Jun 6, 2014)

My first total rebuild was an 028 also, but I wasn't nearly as "Chip Foose" about it as you are. Looking good on your rebuild, I am jonesing for some more pics, especially the newly powdercoated parts.


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## Cardston (Jun 6, 2014)

wkmincey said:


> My first total rebuild was an 028 also, but I wasn't nearly as "Chip Foose" about it as you are. Looking good on your rebuild, I am jonesing for some more pics, especially the newly powdercoated parts.


I'm jonesing to get the parts back with fresh powder coat. Just as soon as they are back, I'll update the thread with plenty of pics. Everything else is ready to go-new seals, bearings, rubber and plastics.


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## glock37 (Jun 6, 2014)

Cool 


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## Cardston (Jun 6, 2014)

glock37 said:


> Cool
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mike-you got pics of the bead blasted parts you want to share on this thread?

glock37 is the man making it happen with the PC!


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## glock37 (Jun 6, 2014)

Sun ill have some got to work 10 hrs sat 


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## glock37 (Jun 8, 2014)

Here are some pics after blasting




















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## Duane(Pa) (Jun 8, 2014)

I see the muffler. Will the PC hold up to that kind of heat?


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## Cardston (Jun 8, 2014)

Mike has some new PC that is good up to 1000 F. So I'm going to try it out. 028 mufflers seem pretty easy to come by-so if it doesn't work out, I'll slap a different one on.


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## Duane(Pa) (Jun 8, 2014)

Should easily stay under 1000. I would say cool but? Well, sweet then!


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## Cardston (Jun 8, 2014)

Higher rez images courtesy of Mike (glock37). I like the look of bare magnesium. It almost seems a shame to cover it up. Maybe I'll do a future saw with just a clear coat to protect it.


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## glock37 (Jun 8, 2014)

With out powder on the pieces they feel flimsy

when you add 10 to 12 mils it gets the feel that it not's so flimsy

Clear powder would be neat !

these parts where bead blasted they feel cool and the surface is smooth


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## Red Amor (Jun 8, 2014)

Sorry if this is a dumb question , are you going to powder coat the plastics on this saw , I didn't know you could /can you , , be neat if you can yeah , great neat finish on the bead blasting nice work


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## glock37 (Jun 8, 2014)

No you cant do the plastic. 

You have to bake the powder at 400 f for 10 mins. 


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## Cardston (Jun 8, 2014)

All the parts that are freshly bead blasted, including the tank, are metal.


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## Red Amor (Jun 9, 2014)

OKEY DOKEY thankyou


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## nnero (Jun 9, 2014)

This thread is great, cant wait to see the poweder coating results. Were you able to find a new wood boss decal for the clutch cover?


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## Cardston (Jun 9, 2014)

nnero said:


> This thread is great, cant wait to see the poweder coating results. Were you able to find a new wood boss decal for the clutch cover?


I've spent quite a bit of time looking for the decal with no luck. I have a couple pictures of some that I've gleaned from the web. If a decal doesn't pop up on eBay, I can recreate the graphics in Photoshop and print it on clear sticker paper. But I'm holding out for an original one first.


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## cedarshark (Jun 9, 2014)

The blasted metal pieces turned out really well. Clear coated metal with black covers would be sharp.


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## nnero (Jun 9, 2014)

Hopefully an original will pop up but at least you have an alternative. This saw is going to look so nice (basically it'll be brand new) you will have to have one on there lol


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## towingace (Jun 20, 2014)

Those parts do look very nice indeed. 

Sorry I'm late. Just got home from running my boat down from Alaska.


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## glock37 (Jun 20, 2014)

Cardsons parts are powdered and on the way back to him he should receive them soon 


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## PA Dan (Jun 20, 2014)

glock37 said:


> Cardsons parts are powdered and on the way back to him he should receive them soon
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hey Mike where's the pictures?


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## Cardston (Jun 21, 2014)

glock37 said:


> Cardsons parts are powdered and on the way back to him he should receive them soon



I'm looking forward to getting the parts back. I'll post pic just as soon as I do.


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## PA Dan (Jun 21, 2014)

I saw your 028 parts last night when I picked up my 064 parts! They look pretty awesome!


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## Cardston (Jun 21, 2014)

I wish I lived close enough to Mike to stop by and pick them up. I'm stuck waiting for the big brown truck


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## glock37 (Jun 21, 2014)

Im gonna leave the pic posting to dan when he unwraps them hell be like a kid at christmas 


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## nikb47 (Jun 26, 2014)

Doesn't that stupid brown truck guy just take forever!? Lol


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## Cardston (Jun 26, 2014)

nikb47 said:


> Doesn't that stupid brown truck guy just take forever!? Lol


No doubt! But it looks like the box of goodies will be delivered on Monday now.


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## glock37 (Jun 26, 2014)

Good thing comes to those who wait. Sorry i couldn't resist 


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## Cardston (Jun 30, 2014)

Christmas came early to Idaho this evening. Amazing PC work done by Mike (glock37)!







I think the tank handle looks better than it did when new.




























PC'd the muffler. The saw will be a shelf queen since it holds a lot of sentimental value. But the high heat PC is good to 800 F. I'll use it on a future build with a saw that will be a user, to see how it holds up.


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## glock37 (Jun 30, 2014)

WOW your Pics are Great

glad you like them !


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## PA Dan (Jun 30, 2014)

Pictures are awesome and so is the powder! Can't wait to see it go together!


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## Cardston (Jul 1, 2014)

After ogling the freshly powder coated parts for too long, the first order of business was to chase all the threads on the freshly PC'd parts. For Father's day my wife and kids got me a Starrett tap wrench and several metrics taps to fit the saw.

It took about 20 minutes to do the four pieces with threaded holes.





I then went to cleaning up the PC flash and the mating faces. The bar mounting face on the crankcase had PC on the lip below the chain adjustment bolt socket. I don't know if the thickness of the PC would tilt the bar slightly from plumb, but I thought it best to remove it and smooth the entire face as well. Put some 320 wet dry on a flat granite slab and honed it down.

You can see how the beadblast roughs up the surface. Here's the before:





And the after:





You can see PC flash here on the edges of the mating face. I need to remove the oil pickup connector tube from the crankcase so I can get rid of the flash and true up the mating face. 10 minutes of wiggling it back and forth didn't get it any further out. Time to get the torch.


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## Cardston (Jul 1, 2014)

Oil connector came loose after adding a few degrees with the torch. And the mating surfaces have been trued up with 320 and then 600 grit.


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## Cardston (Jul 1, 2014)

I've built up the handle/tank with the exception of the electrical and a period correct fuel cap that I'm waiting to be delivered. I put a dab of blue threadlock on the carb bolts.
The bearings are in the deep freeze and will be installed next.


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## redoakneck (Jul 1, 2014)

That is one detailed re-build!!! I am going to ask my dealer if he has a name plate, has been in business since stihl came to USA. If I get one it is yours, you need a brand new one!!!


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## Cardston (Jul 1, 2014)

redoakneck said:


> That is one detailed re-build!!! I am going to ask my dealer if he has a name plate, has been in business since stihl came to USA. If I get one it is yours, you need a brand new one!!!


Thanks-that's very kind of you. This place rocks!


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## Ironworker (Jul 1, 2014)

Awesome thread, very nice build.


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## Cardston (Jul 1, 2014)

Success on the clutch side with the special bearing. Heated case to 250 F in the oven and cooled the bearing in dry ice. It fell right it. I held the bearing down until it heated up and seated. It's tight with no moment.


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## Cardston (Jul 1, 2014)

On the flywheel side bearing I put it on the crank first. Then heated the bearing up and and put the crank in dry ice. It slide right on.





Then I put the crank & bearing in the dry ice and the case in the oven. 20 minutes later the bearing and case slide right on. There's no wiggle to the crank, so I feel good about it.





Next up is putting the new oil pickup connector on the clutch side of the case and then the gasket and putting the crankcase together.


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## glock37 (Jul 1, 2014)

Dan you shouldn't have any problem with the powder being only heated to 250 f

that's a slick way of doing it !


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## Cardston (Jul 1, 2014)

glock37 said:


> Dan you shouldn't have any problem with the powder being only heated to 250 f
> 
> that's a slick way of doing it !


I was watching it closely in the oven with fingers crossed there wasn't going to be any sag or melting. I was worried the PC might get soft. But not so much as as smudge or fingerprint in the PC.


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## Cardston (Jul 1, 2014)

Looking ahead... Should I pack the bearings with grease prior to putting the oil seals on??? Good idea or no?


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## glock37 (Jul 1, 2014)

After you got it together just put a little oil it the bearing and move them around


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## Cardston (Jul 1, 2014)

Installed the oil pickup on the clutch half of the case. The connector (the metal bent tube) is press fit into the case. I had to remove the old one to true up the gasket edges and I could only get the new one in about 1/4 of the way. Using a strip of 320 sandpaper on a dremel mandrel I cleaned up the inner surfaces of the case hole, applied a dab of Hondabond and press fit the connector. It took a little bit of elbow grease to get it to seat fully. But it's not going anywhere now. 

Next up is mating the crankcase together.


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## PA Dan (Jul 2, 2014)

Awesome job great thread!


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## nnero (Jul 2, 2014)

WOW! Cant really say much else. Awesome job OP and glock37 for the powdercoating!


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## Gravedigger (Jul 2, 2014)

glock37 said:


> After you got it together just put a little oil it the bearing and move them around


I learned my lesson a little goes a long way. . I put allot and now my saw won't start. Keeps oil fouling the plug. S last night I sprayed allot of ether in the carb plug the plug and cranked . Pulled muffler and now is sitting open. Tonite I'll choke it until spark plug (plug wire off) has fuel on it so I know it's lubed. Change plus and hope it goes.


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## Cardston (Jul 2, 2014)

Crankcase is put together. I put a thin film of Hondabond HT on each side of the gasket. From a purely aesthetic perspective I like it better than say Dirko because it's gray in color and blends in better with the case color. Looking at the pic, I realize I need to drive the set pin in further on the front.

I'll be away for the holiday so it will be awhile before I have further progress to post on the saw.






The oil pump, clutch spider, bar bolts and AV rubbers are in as well.


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## blsnelling (Jul 2, 2014)

Fantastic restoration! Beautiful!


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## redfin (Jul 2, 2014)

X2 I dig it!


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## Cardston (Jul 2, 2014)

blsnelling said:


> Fantastic restoration! Beautiful!


Thanks Brad! I found the pics of your 048 restoration-it turned out great. An 048 is my next project after this.


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## Gravedigger (Jul 6, 2014)

Waiting on progress update!


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## Cardston (Jul 6, 2014)

Gravedigger said:


> Waiting on progress update!



Me too  I'm out of town for a few more days-once I'm back home, I'll get back on it.


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## Cardston (Jul 14, 2014)

I'm back home and back at the rebuild. I've got an issue, actually not so much as an issue, rather a puzzler. I've checked the squish with the new cylinder gasket (it had a cylinder gasket when I took it apart). Torqued the cylinder bolts to spec and with 4 pieces of .035 solder at 90 degree angles around the piston head, none of the solder got so much as an impression. 

So I yanked the gasket and checked squish again. This time all four pieces of solder were between .023 and .026.

How is this possible? Assuming it was built to spec (maybe I shouldn't) with a .5 mm gasket (compressed down to ?) the original squish would have been north of .035-.040.

Second question-with average squish currently around .0245, should I lap the cylinder base until I get to .019-.021? Or just leave it as is?


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## PA Dan (Jul 14, 2014)

If your getting .023-.026 without a gasket I would go without a gasket and seal it up!


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## nikb47 (Jul 14, 2014)

.5mm is just ~.0197" probably compresses a little. Should have you around .040" I've twisted up some of the .035 solder before just to get a rough estimate of squish before pulling a cylinder off for re ring or what have you...

I would go with what you have.


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## Cardston (Jul 14, 2014)

nikb47 said:


> .5mm is just ~.0197" probably compresses a little. Should have you around .040" I've twisted up some of the .035 solder before just to get a rough estimate of squish before pulling a cylinder off for re ring or what have you...
> 
> I would go with what you have.


I'll go with the 2 out of 2 concensus and leave it  

I'll have pics tomorrow...


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## nikb47 (Jul 14, 2014)

Just my opinion is that if you want to try to get all you can out of it, then yeah try for a tighter squish band, but at that point you might as well be doing some port work and machine work, and the machine work is where you'd want to make up for the tighter squish band.


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## KG441c (Jul 14, 2014)

Cardston said:


> Crankcase is put together. I put a thin film of Hondabond HT on each side of the gasket. From a purely aesthetic perspective I like it better than say Dirko because it's gray in color and blends in better with the case color. Looking at the pic, I realize I need to drive the set pin in further on thet.
> 
> I'll be away for the holiday so it will be awhile before I have further progress to post on the saw.
> 
> ...


Man that powder coat is beautiful!!!


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## Cardston (Jul 15, 2014)

Jar, flywheel, coil and muffler are on.







One mod I made to the saw from the original condition is putting in an electronic coil.






Soldered on a connector and used some heat shrink tubing.





Wired up and carb is in.






This is the original unflocked air filter.


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## PA Dan (Jul 15, 2014)

Cardston said:


> Jar, flywheel, coil and muffler are on.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looking great! Awesome job!


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## Boozer (Jul 15, 2014)

Tip of the cap. Beautiful restoration. Many thanks for sharing the process. 
Can't wait to see it assembled + 100% finished.


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## Duane(Pa) (Jul 15, 2014)

That is so sweet! Another tiny but useful upgrade is the rubber grommet that covers the carb adjusting screws. It keeps crap
From coming through the opening. Nice work!!


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## Cardston (Jul 15, 2014)

Duane(Pa) said:


> That is so sweet! Another tiny but useful upgrade is the rubber grommet that covers the carb adjusting screws. It keeps crap
> From coming through the opening. Nice work!!



That would be sweet. I couldn't find the part shown in the IPL. Do you know the part #? I'm not sure how a cover would cover the set screws though...


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## Cardston (Jul 15, 2014)

I went to put the rest of the clutch assembly together and couldn't find the needle bearing. I spent 20 minutes going through my meticulously labeled Ziploc bags. Tore my workbench area apart.... it was nowhere. Nada, zilch, zip. Luckily my local dealer had one in stock! Just picked it up and I'm back on track.

Hmmm.. she's looking ready to fire up.


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## Duane(Pa) (Jul 15, 2014)

Cardston said:


> That would be sweet. I couldn't find the part shown in the IPL. Do you know the part #? I'm not sure how a cover would cover the set screws though...


1118-123-7500 (mine are later model plastic tank units) I would guess it will work? may need to trim with an exacto knife.


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## Cardston (Jul 15, 2014)

Duane(Pa) said:


> 1118-123-7500 (mine are later model plastic tank units) I would guess it will work? may need to trim with an exacto knife.


Thanks!


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## Cardston (Jul 15, 2014)

SHE'S ALIVE!!!


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## PA Dan (Jul 15, 2014)

Cardston said:


> SHE'S ALIVE!!!



Thats awesome! Sounds great! Hope to get my video up in a couple hours!


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## Cardston (Jul 15, 2014)

She's pretty much done. I need to paint the logo on the chain cover and I'm waiting on a Made in West Germany nameplate. WheresWally was kind enough to send me an extra one that he has. Once I get those finishing touches done, I'll take some proper 'beauty' pics of the saw and post them.


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## Boozer (Jul 15, 2014)

Cardston you did a magnificent restoration! What do you estimate your overall cost was?
Is this saw going to see wood or become a piece of art inside your home?

I love my 028av Woodboss on so many levels.


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## Ironworker (Jul 15, 2014)

Nice job.


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## nikb47 (Jul 15, 2014)

Cardston said:


> SHE'S ALIVE!!!




More piss revving please! Haha


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## Cardston (Jul 16, 2014)

Boozer said:


> Cardston you did a magnificent restoration! What do you estimate your overall cost was?
> Is this saw going to see wood or become a piece of art inside your home?
> 
> I love my 028av Woodboss on so many levels.


Thanks! I tracked the costs and lets just say that I could have bought a new Stihl, with a few more CC's for cheaper. It was never really about the cost for me... It was my dad's saw and full of memories of good times we had when I was growing up. It will be a shelf queen in my office. That being said, I ran a full tank through it yesterday after I got it tuned and she screams.

I've got a couple 048's and an 044. I'm deciding what project will be my next for a good 'user' saw.


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## Bob95065 (Jul 17, 2014)

Cardston said:


> I went to put the rest of the clutch assembly together and couldn't find the needle bearing. I spent 20 minutes going through my meticulously labeled Ziploc bags. Tore my workbench area apart.... it was nowhere. Nada, zilch, zip. Luckily my local dealer had one in stock! Just picked it up and I'm back on track.
> 
> Hmmm.. she's looking ready to fire up.


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## Bob95065 (Jul 17, 2014)

Cardston said:


> I went to put the rest of the clutch assembly together and couldn't find the needle bearing. I spent 20 minutes going through my meticulously labeled Ziploc bags. Tore my workbench area apart.... it was nowhere. Nada, zilch, zip. Luckily my local dealer had one in stock! Just picked it up and I'm back on track.
> 
> Hmmm.. she's looking ready to fire up.


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## Bob95065 (Jul 17, 2014)

Cardston said:


> I went to put the rest of the clutch assembly together and couldn't find the needle bearing. I spent 20 minutes going through my meticulously labeled Ziploc bags. Tore my workbench area apart.... it was nowhere. Nada, zilch, zip. Luckily my local dealer had one in stock! Just picked it up and I'm back on track.
> 
> Hmmm.. she's looking ready to fire up.


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## Bob95065 (Jul 17, 2014)

Cardston said:


> I went to put the rest of the clutch assembly together and couldn't find the needle bearing. I spent 20 minutes going through my meticulously labeled Ziploc bags. Tore my workbench area apart.... it was nowhere. Nada, zilch, zip. Luckily my local dealer had one in stock! Just picked it up and I'm back on track.
> 
> Hmmm.. she's looking ready to fire up.


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## nikb47 (Jul 17, 2014)

Ok.... I think it's already running...


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## Cardston (Jul 17, 2014)

Bob-what are you trying to say?


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## glock37 (Jul 20, 2014)

Great looking saw 

Hows the powder on the muff holding up ?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Cardston (Jul 20, 2014)

glock37 said:


> Great looking saw
> 
> Hows the powder on the muff holding up ?


I've only run 1 tank of gas through it so far. I had to take the front of the muffler off to tighten up a bolt and it looks good so far.


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## redfin (Jul 20, 2014)

Please tell me you cut some wood with that tank? I know you said it was going to be a shelf rider but if you put gas and oil in it I hope you at least cut with it?


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## Wood Doctor (Jul 20, 2014)

I've been bitten by that same "starter cord too long snake". Only 6" too long will do it.

You and I both have a beautiful saw, but yours is cleaner than mine was when it left the factory 15 years ago. Let's keep them for awhile and show this Forum what they can cut and produce.


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## PA Dan (Jul 21, 2014)

When are we going to see the pics with the new awesome recoil tag on it?


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## Cardston (Jul 21, 2014)

PA Dan said:


> When are we going to see the pics with the new awesome recoil tag on it?


I'm still waiting for the tag to show up from the land down under....


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## PA Dan (Jul 21, 2014)

Oh ok didnt know it was coming from down there! What camera you using for your shots? They are awesome!


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## Cardston (Jul 22, 2014)

It's a Canon Powershot SX160 I think. It does a good job.


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## Cardston (Aug 7, 2014)

The "Made in West Germany" nameplate arrived this week from Australia... A big thanks to WheresWally! 
So here are the final pics. It turned out better than I imagined when I started this project and it runs like a banshee.

Thanks to everone that followed along, commented and gave advice. I'm looking forward to my next rebuild project.

-Dan


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## PA Dan (Aug 7, 2014)

Incredible! Great pics! Makes me want to do my Super now!


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## Cardston (Aug 7, 2014)

PA Dan said:


> Incredible! Great pics! Makes me want to do my Super now!


Thanks-I figured the final pics deserved something special so I broke out the medium format camera


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## Wood Doctor (Aug 7, 2014)

Truly a masterpiece in restoration. I've now restored two 028av Supers, and I assure you that mine run fine but look used. This saw looks better than my MS361 did when I bought it brand new in 2007.

Stihl can't send a saw out of the factory that looks better than this one.

I added an outside bumper spike on mine that lines up perfectly with the inside spike. That required custom grinding because most do not align properly. However, that's the only trump that I can play and it's only a deuce.


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## Grey (Aug 7, 2014)

Friggin' awesome! You gots some skillz


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## Nate66n1 (Aug 7, 2014)

Super nice saw, awesome job man


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## CapitaineHaddoc (Aug 7, 2014)

Perfect job, congratulations!


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## glock37 (Aug 11, 2014)

Awesome job great looking saw Glad i had the chance to help u along the way


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## old-cat (Aug 11, 2014)

That is a PERFECT shelf queen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## WheresWally (Aug 11, 2014)

That looks as sharp as a tack, well done mate, nice job...


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## HD2010 (Aug 11, 2014)

Not only can you do an awesome job restoring a saw but the photos are awesome too.


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## Cardston (Aug 11, 2014)

Thanks all! 

HD2010-They're just snapshots


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## glock37 (Oct 8, 2014)

Well has the saw like being in wood or do you like too look at it 


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Oct 9, 2014)

Cardston said:


> The "Made in West Germany" nameplate arrived this week from Australia... A big thanks to WheresWally!
> So here are the final pics. It turned out better than I imagined when I started this project and it runs like a banshee.
> 
> Thanks to everone that followed along, commented and gave advice. I'm looking forward to my next rebuild project.
> ...




A true powder puff. What a restoration!


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Oct 9, 2014)

The powder looks like an exact match to the Stihl grey. Is that right powder man?


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## glock37 (Oct 9, 2014)

It's a little whiter We are still looking for a grater white. The old gray we found but the newer white is hard to find
Stihl switches back and forth with there shades some parts are different shades of white with a little gray

If you powder the whole saw the shades aren't as noticeable

Does this make sense


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## turtle561 (Oct 9, 2014)

cardston-which electronic coil did you use ? what number. did you use the points flywheel with it ? also what number.
i want to convert mine but there is some debate over what combination works.
astounding job on your rebuild, wow. i struggle with the basic things.
thanks


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## snoozeys (Oct 11, 2014)

Fully sick rebuild ... looks so good and such a show piece


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## Brettl (Oct 11, 2014)

Awesome restoration. I hope you realize what youve done though. I'm looking at my 028s with new eyes and I'm simply going to have to restore one of them. The 026 shows promise too though, and, of course, there's my all time favorite pair of 024s......


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## redfin (Oct 11, 2014)

Very nice job!


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## glock37 (Nov 8, 2014)

Dan I got a 028 super a month or so ago torn it down blasted powdered and new bearings seals gaskets rings on base gasket 

Had .021 squish 518 the base and buttoned it up 

It's not as pretty as yours but it don't look bad I need a few new parts have to keep looking plastic recoil 4 bolt and a air filter cover 

I got a new tank 


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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## cgraham1 (Nov 9, 2014)

Awesome job on the rebuilds, guys! 

Just picked up a nice clean 028 super with a bad p&c from Jon1212, gonna swap jugs from a buddy's smashed saw and give it to him. Now I'm really wanting to keep it.


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## JonCraig (Dec 23, 2017)

Bumping a great old thread in case there are newcomers like me who didn’t see it back in the day. 

Truly an incredible restoration. @Cardston still around?


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## president (Dec 23, 2017)

Duane(Pa) said:


> Welcome to AS! I am an 028 lover. Like you, I didn't take any before pix of my first 028, but it cleaned up real nice and I found it very nice to use. I just like the feel of an 028. This is by no means an origanal quote but "028's have cut cubic miles of firewood". Should be no problem to find good used parts. As far as the rubber parts go, I would just buy new. Have fun! DW


the 024/026 av mounts look the same ,mabey save some $


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## president (Dec 23, 2017)

Cardston said:


> I've contacted 2 different dry ice blasting since last Friday and both said they don't have very good success when trying to remove old powder coat. I think sandblasting the parts is not a good option due to the media residue that get's left behind. I wouldn't want anything in the crank case or oil reservoir to cause damage. So it looks like my only option at this point is soda blasting, but I can't get a hold of the only local guy that soda blasts. He never picks up the phone and hasn't returned my calls since last Saturday...
> 
> Anyone have experience re-powdercoating a saw?? Would love some advice...
> 
> ...


like the domed piston


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## Matt Hogden (Dec 23, 2017)

blsnelling said:


> Fantastic restoration! Beautiful!


I second that!

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## Matt Hogden (Dec 23, 2017)

Amazing mate

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## SteveinUT (Dec 24, 2017)

Glad this got bumped back up! Beautiful build!


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Jan 8, 2018)

Any new news on this?


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