# prune root or leave



## Jace (Oct 4, 2014)

red sunset, typical containered plant issue.... Remove the overlapping root or leave it? It'd be a pretty hard hit to the tree. And if cut, wait till early summer ?


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## Raintree (Oct 4, 2014)

I would cut it late fall or early spring. The two crossing roots will join in one larger restriction. Is that trunk guard being a problem?


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## Jace (Oct 4, 2014)

Guard is primarily for the neighbors over abundant supply of trunk scratching/climbing cats. (Moves up and down easily, trees not growing into it)


I was thinking if roots hold the most carb storage during dormancy, and cutting the root late spring-summer a while after it used most carb reserve on sudden spring growth, would be a good time. Maybe I'm off on that tho


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## Jace (Oct 5, 2014)

I was also wondering, as to just go ahead & cut the root ALMOST flush, or rather cut it about 2" out on a 45', in hopes of that little bitty scronny root(look close in photo south-middle) would someday grow large and fill the empty area on that side of the flare where there should be a root.
??


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## ATH (Oct 5, 2014)

I am not worried about root-to-root...they will graft together. The big concern is that root will put pressure on the trunk as it (the trunk) increases in diameter. Not enough to full girdle the tree, but certainly restrict vascular capacity on that side of the tree.


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## Raintree (Oct 6, 2014)

Make the smallest cut possible, perpendicular & close to the root crown, not at an angle. The photosynthate stored in the root will primarily go to that root for growth, maintenance & defense. Timing of the prune is not a big concern, however wounding just before active growth (dormant) may help accelerate wound closure & reduce decay.


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## Ed Roland (Oct 8, 2014)

I dunno. Timing might be more important than we American arborists think.

The ISA BMP revised 2008 says “Growth is maximized and defects are easier to see if live-branch pruning is done in the winter or before growth resumes in early spring.”

But, I think we might all agree that dormant trees have a very limited ability to produce barrier zones. [Dormant tree] [maximize growth]?

It makes complete sense then, when vectors are not an issue, to prune live wood when cells are most active. German rules and regulations for arborists supports summer live wood pruning while the American National Standards support live wood pruning during winter dormancy. Dr. Dujesiefken is giving us great data.


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## Jace (Oct 13, 2014)

Mega-professional artwork here....
Maybe prune the root to the right, the following year..? Or leave it ?

From what I've read, it seems that most root growth takes place late spring thru "early to mid" summer, after spring flush above ground growth take place. I'm guessing that's because whatever sudden energy is created into carbs by photosynthesis from the flush, is suddenly routed to root growth in attempt to keep the tree in proportion above and below ground..??

With that said, Im thinking the root prune cut(s) would best be made at the end of spring flush, say 6 weeks after bud break, to get the quickest walling off of the wound, and encouraged reaction growth nearest the wound...hopefully that little bitty lateral root will take over the dominance...

Couple quotes I found-
"These ecologists describe root activity as periodic, with maximum growth in early summer – especially in deciduous species – and pulses of additional growth occurring occasionally in early fall." - from http://northernwoodlands.org/articles/article/what_do_tree_roots_do_in_winter

And :
*When is the Best Time to Do the Work?*
The season during which SGR’s are removed might influence the success of the treatment.
Pruning branches is typically avoided in spring and fall, when leaves are forming or falling,
because these are times of increased sap flow and hormonal activity. Midsummer is a good time
to prune deciduous trees, in part because the wound response may be more active than in winter.
For all these reasons, midsummer may be the best time to prune roots. *For red maple trees under
an irrigation system, *scientists at the Bartlett Tree Research Laboratories found that summer
removal of SGR’s resulted in better diameter growth over two years than did fall removal or a
combination of summer and fall removal (Smiley 1993).
From- http://www.historictreecare.com/wp-...LBG-III-Managing-Stem-Girdling-Roots1.doc.pdf


If I get off track on some things, straighten me out...


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## treeseer (Nov 16, 2014)

I like the last quote a lot; I'd hate to count the hours that went into that! I think that article also cites Tate, Watson et al re timing. Consensus is that summer/fall may be ideal, but now would be fine. I'd cut right at the origin--the objective is to stop the girdling, so stop it at the source. Cut the SGR below next year. Use a chisel.


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## Jace (Dec 10, 2014)

well... here it is. Sure left a bad area where it was growing over the top of the other root.










This southern magnolia has major trunk collar damage. Unsure why...mulch was not mounded. Not planted too deep. No weed eater damage.








Anybody got any ideas what the causal is here?


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## treeseer (Dec 12, 2014)

thats just physical injury and its scarring over well. where is the major decay?  It would be good to clean the wounds.

Great job on the maple! Also clean that one, and cover it with a flat stone.


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## Jace (Dec 14, 2014)

a zoomed in closer look...

Surely not from rabbits or the like...? I didnt see any knawing areas..most damage was hidden under the soft outer bark.

These have been in the ground, w mulch surrounding(not against trunk) for about 3 years. No weedeaters near trunk. Would the mechanical damage HAVE to be from the time of planting? If the rootball was heavy, maybe picking up all the weight by flare? Just trying to figure out exactly what caused it...Nothing touched the flare area post-planting....

Theres only about 1.5 inch wide vertical "strap" of live tissue left, running up the northern facing side...does it still have a decent chance?

Is the Rock cover advice on the other tree w pruned root, to protect new callous tissue from sun slowing down callousing?
Thanks for your help & advice treeseer.


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## treeseer (Dec 15, 2014)

Often dead bark will hang on for years. 1.5" might be enough, if it spreads at a good rate.

Stone on wound to keep spores and sunlight off wound yes.


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## Jace (Jul 8, 2015)

Interesting short read I stumbled on...relative to the when(seasonally), of root growth.
https://www.asca-consultants.org/conresources/native_trees_04-11.pdf


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## ropensaddle (Aug 17, 2015)

Jace said:


> Interesting short read I stumbled on...relative to the when(seasonally), of root growth.
> https://www.asca-consultants.org/conresources/native_trees_04-11.pdf


Yup roots and caliper growth occur in fall, as well as spring and wounding or pruning roots at this time, seems prudent. One factor to me would be less undesirables to invade but admittedly is merely my opinion.


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