# The best for firewood



## redheadwoodshed (Aug 14, 2011)

I hope this doesn't end up in the chainsaw forum because I would like to hear from firewood folks. What is the best chainsaw for firewood.Right out of the box, fuel and oil, fire her up and cut.No mods or all that.Would like to hear all opinions


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## skidoo52 (Aug 14, 2011)

i love my ms 460 pro for firewood. it cuts twice as fast as my old ms 290 farm boss.


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## lone wolf (Aug 14, 2011)

460uttahere2:


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## redheadwoodshed (Aug 14, 2011)

I seem to hear a lot of raving over the 440 but new, the 460 is only about 20 bucks more.
I really like my 038mag, but would like to have something a little bit meaner.


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## lone wolf (Aug 14, 2011)

redheadwoodshed said:


> I seem to hear a lot of raving over the 440 but new, the 460 is only about 20 bucks more.
> I really like my 038mag, but would like to have something a little bit meaner.


 
Hey what do they cost now?


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## Mntn Man (Aug 14, 2011)

I love my MS441. But if I could only have one saw it would be the MS260. I use that 75% of the time and I'd hate to limb with the 441.


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## czar800 (Aug 14, 2011)

.





+1 for a 460 



.


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## TreePointer (Aug 14, 2011)

*Size does matter*

Out of the box? *All saws should be properly tuned.* Some are tuned too lean at the factory, and that's why you should buy from a good dealer who will properly tune it before you leave the shop.

The "best" saw is one that's sized for the job. If most of your cuts are under 16" diameter, then a 50cc pro saw running .325 pitch chain will make you happy. NE346XP, MS261.

If you often run into large wood, say 20" and bigger, a 70cc+ pro saw will get the job done and save you work. MS441, 372XP/W

One saw compromise? Look to a 60cc saw such as the MS361 or MS362. The game changer may be the soon to be released 560/562XP. These 60cc saws and larger displacement models can competently run 3/8 pitch chain.


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## TreePointer (Aug 14, 2011)

...and with all that being said, my "go to" saw most of the time is the *NE346XP*. The only thing I don't like about it is the outboard clutch, but it's minor tradeoff for the chain speed and great throttle response.


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## redheadwoodshed (Aug 14, 2011)

lone wolf said:


> Hey what do they cost now?


 
Distributor Suggested Retail Price $939.99-25 in.Bar

STIHL Magnum™
Series 1128
Professional Use
One of the world's largest-selling professional saws. Powerful, all-around model for felling and bucking, the MS 440's smooth contours also make it a great limbing saw. An IntelliCarbTM compensating carburetor lets you cut longer between filter cleanings and the decompression valve for easier cold starts. Wrap-handle version (R) also available. 

MS 440 STIHL Magnum™ Chain Saw Specifications
DISPLACEMENT 70.7 cc (4.3 cu. in.) 
ENGINE POWER 4.0 kw (5.3 bhp) 
WEIGHT
Flush-Cut (Pictured)
Wrap-Handle
Arctic (Powerhead only)
6.3kg (13.9lbs)
6.7kg (14.8lbs)
6.5kg (14.3lbs) 
FUEL CAPACITY 780 cc (26.4 oz.) 
CHAIN OIL CAPACITY 275cc (9.3 oz.) 
OILOMAT 


MS 460 STIHL Magnum™ Chain Saw 
Distributor Suggested Retail Price $989.99 25 in.-Bar

STIHL Magnum™
Series 1128
Professional Use
A perfect fit for the demanding professional, the MS 460 STIHL Magnum™ is one tough high-performance chain saw. High engine power and torque, resulting in an impressive power-to-weight ratio, make this tool a great all around professional chain saw for forest or tree service. 

MS 460 STIHL Magnum™ Chain Saw Specifications
DISPLACEMENT 76.5 cc (4.7 cu. in.) 
ENGINE POWER 4.5 kW (6.0 bhp) 
WEIGHT
(powerhead only)Flush-Cut 6.6 kg (14.6 lbs.) 
FUEL CAPACITY 800 cc (27.1 oz.) 
CHAIN OIL CAPACITY 325 cc (11.0 oz.) 
OILOMATIC® CHAIN 3/8" RSC3 
RECOMMENDED
RANGE OF
GUIDE BAR
LENGTHS 40 to 80 cm
(16" to 32")
STIHL ROLLOMATIC® E Super 







STIHL Magnum™
Series 1128
Professional Use
A perfect fit for the demanding professional, the MS 460 STIHL Magnum™ is one tough high-performance chain saw. High engine power and torque, resulting in an impressive power-to-weight ratio, make this tool a great all around professional chain saw for forest or tree service. 

MS 460 STIHL Magnum™ Chain Saw Specifications
DISPLACEMENT 76.5 cc (4.7 cu. in.) 
ENGINE POWER 4.5 kW (6.0 bhp) 
WEIGHT
(powerhead only)Flush-Cut 6.6 kg (14.6 lbs.) 
FUEL CAPACITY 800 cc (27.1 oz.) 
CHAIN OIL CAPACITY 325 cc (11.0 oz.) 
OILOMATIC® CHAIN 3/8" RSC3 
RECOMMENDED
RANGE OF
GUIDE BAR
LENGTHS 40 to 80 cm
(16" to 32")
STIHL ROLLOMATIC® E Super 



O.K. it's 50$ difference, but I still say its worth the 50$


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## bluestem (Aug 14, 2011)

I go with my 361 7 times out of 10, since I got it I sold the 260 because it sat for 2 years collecting dust. If the stuff is more than 16 or 18" I'll grab the 460 and run through it!


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## lone wolf (Aug 14, 2011)

redheadwoodshed said:


> Distributor Suggested Retail Price $939.99-25 in.Bar
> 
> STIHL Magnum™
> Series 1128
> ...


 The prices are getting out of reach for a lot of people.


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## zogger (Aug 14, 2011)

*I don't think there is one*



redheadwoodshed said:


> I hope this doesn't end up in the chainsaw forum because I would like to hear from firewood folks. What is the best chainsaw for firewood.Right out of the box, fuel and oil, fire her up and cut.No mods or all that.Would like to hear all opinions



Really, I don't. Firewood, and I can only comment on eastern hardwoods, just comes in way too many sizes for a one saw plan. You can do it of course, but you'll be compromising all over the place. Unless you are completely and totally wasteful and never take any limbs and branches and only cut trunks. Or vice versa. You really need two different saws, a trim saw for that great pile of "don't need no splittin" size you can get from most hardwoods, and a beefier felling and bucking saw for the main trunk and the thicker parts of the branches.

With that said, I'll "echo" the sentiment on a 60 cc saw as the best possible compromise for a one saw plan. Because a good two saw plan, according to the bulk of the commentary I have read anyway, is 40-50 cc then a 70, so a 60 falls in there. Just have a couple/three bar sizes and loops with you then, say a sixteen and a twenty or even a twenty four.

I don't have the experience on all the various brands to pick one over another, so I won't. I will say this, I have cut a *lot* of firewood in my life with used smaller cheap saws. Saws that no one really wanted, ten and twenty buck saws.

Chain sharpness and technique is like adding 30 ccs, something like that, to your saw. I still to this day cut the bulk of my personal firewood with a 36cc "homeowner" saw! And I can and do cut upwards of twenty inch thick trunks with it, cutting from both sides. I burn around 4.5 to 5 cord a year, and last year cut around seven, as I am trying to build up the stash to several years in advance.

I just watch my chips. When they start getting smaller, I slow down, when they get to around half the size of what I was getting on the first cuts, that's it, I resharpen. And I don't even use the expensive "pro" chain, I run used old crappy homeowner safety chain (not kidding, I get them free or for like a buck outta the junk pile at the shop in town), I just file the rakers and safety link bumps down a scosh all the time. I give the cutters enough room to grab, but not be overly aggressive, no sense beating on a little engine like that. 

Fuel mileage is *great* with the smaller saws as well, another bonus.

And I milk trees out, take a lot of the smaller stuff. What is left over is easy to run over with a rotary mower, that's my dividing line, down to what I can break with my hands or stomp with my boots, that's small enough to not matter mowing over it, and gives me a lot more wood per tree to take home, with another bonus of not needing to split so much to make my stacks big. Ya, takes a little more time, but I love sawing and running a lighter weight saw is a breeze. 

Also I just don't like being wasteful, and I don't like branch piles anyplace, I look at them and go "yeech, one year from now will be a weed mess there". Don't need it, rather have nice pasture, and don't do burn piles, so I cut down to small size. 

Right now on this whole farm I only have one small pile I need to go through again, cut some more out of it, and a small fence area I need to do the same to, the rest, you can't hardly tell where I have cut, because I leave so little. When I get done I want to be able to drive a tractor over the area and not worry about tires, snagging hydraulic lines, that sort of thing.

So..that's ME, it ain't YOU, your situation could be radically different, so only you can answer what size of saw you need. And there's a difference between "need" and "want" to consider as well.

How much do you cut? What species and size? How much time can you spend at the woodlot milking out a tree? How many cords a year do you need? What size do your burn pieces need to be? Can you afford a pro saw and then only use it for your own personal wood, so it will last a long time? If not, is used "good enough" and spend the savings someplace else, like truck fuel and insurance? New saws ain't cheap....Can you do all your own maintenance, or if it breaks, does it have to go to the sixty buck an hour shop?

And new saws today I definitely do NOT trust them as they come with stock carb settings. Not from anyone. Now maybe those new "autotune" carbs are spiffy, I just don't know, maybe those saws can be run stock with few issues. No experience with them at all. 

If warranty is a good thing for you, the best out there I am aware of are echos and tanakas, five and seven years. AFAIK husky and stihl are only two years, and I forget makita/dolmar. Get one from a dealer, let them set it up, then run it as instructed, then have them retune it after how many tanks they suggest. 

That is probably your best bet for a personal firewood one saw plan, if buying brand new.

Now buying used is totally different, your best bet there is any of the old traditional talked about pro saws where aftermarket parts are cheap and plentiful and all the little nuances have been well worked out already, so you have work arounds for the "gotchas".

I like your question, though, and would like an answer as well, but we have no real scientific independent reviews. A real review would consist of total tear downs, metallurgy testing, other stress testing, etc, magnafluxing of all the parts, and etc, right down to the last bolt and bearing. Plus analysis of over all design. Doesn't exist, no one does it.(well, the big companies do it but keep the results secret...) A real engineering review, just slap don't exist no place I have seen where any random joe saw buyer can see it.

The best we have to go on is anecdotal reports from people who can have HUGE differences in sawing technique and types of wood they cut, and "builders" who do a tear down and post some pics. And we have no idea on any of the this year model saws, the latest advanced designs, they haven't been out long enough to see if they will really hold up! They may cut like a banshee for a year or two, then turn out the framis valve blows and impacts the dojammer relay and ..whatever. who knoweth...

The most reliable would be..a modern cross cut with a good set of files and a set tool. Wouldn't be the fastest, but would be the most reliable, hands down.


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## Swamp Yankee (Aug 15, 2011)

No right answer

Totally dependent on how much you cut and the size. Also what brands are available in your area.

My opinion, best bang for the buck that will truly do everything from felling, limbing, and bucking is the Dolmar PS7900 with a 20 inch B&C. Power of an 80 to 85 cc saw with a weight that a lot of 70cc class saws wish they had. Pricing around here is in the $650 to $700 range. In short out of the box, there is no other saw I know of that gets close to the Dolmar's power in the same weight range. The fact it's $100 to $150 less than it's competitor(s) is a huge bonus.

Take care


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## ASETECH (Aug 15, 2011)

The question is to vague. What do you want to spend? How big of wood? I have several pro saws with 2 ft bars. My wife will tell you the house was just as warm when I only owned a 290 with an 18 inch bar. I didn't like it but it served me very well. I bought the bigger saws for fun because I wanted them. Buy a good saw that is not to heavy for you. Take care of it. You will be warm.


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## Encore (Aug 15, 2011)

If my prices were the same as listed I'd have probably gone for the 460, but brand new my 441 was just a hair over $800 at the dealer. 

The 441 is all I use. It's not ideal when limbing, but you get used to the weight for that and the way it runs through logs for bucking makes it a lot of fun to use. 

I have a lot of buddies who burn as well though and most of them have your 024's and the like and they'd never change. However the cost is having to pass up big wood when it comes your way. 

You just have to look at your experience level and what you are comfortable with working with all day. Some people I wouldn't recommend the 441/460 to because it's way too much saw for them.


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## NCPABill (Aug 15, 2011)

Zogger said exactly what I'd say about firewood saws and firewooding. I'm glas I read it, as it was a ton of typing. Thanks Zogger.

Bill


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## Stihlman441 (Aug 15, 2011)

lone wolf said:


> The prices are getting out of reach for a lot of people.


 
Your joking 
In Ozz a 460 goes for about $1450 and a 660 $1700
But we do get dual port muffs and twin bumper spikes and even roller chain catchers.


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## skidoo52 (Aug 15, 2011)

i paid $850 for my new ms 460 pro with a 20 inch bar last year in october at the dealer


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## lone wolf (Aug 15, 2011)

Stihlman441 said:


> Your joking
> In Ozz a 460 goes for about $1450 and a 660 $1700
> But we do get dual port muffs and twin bumper spikes and even roller chain catchers.


 
Australian Dollar 0.967018 1.03411
exchange rate is close so I guess your prices are very high can you tell us why that is?


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## Stihlman441 (Aug 15, 2011)

I think it comes down to volume,or someone is making a killing in the middle.


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## Laird (Aug 15, 2011)

With the preface, "for the money" I will say that the MS290 would be the best all around saw for firewood. I started out with one and cut for 3 years with nothing else for a total of 50 or so cords. Would I want to give up my 460? No way. But if money is an issue and you need to heat your home, the Farm Boss with a sharp chain will do almost anything you need to do to accomplish that.


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## redheadwoodshed (Aug 15, 2011)

Lots of good points made here, yes I left out out of the box and tuned, I shouldn't have as I had a bad experience with my 350 husky when I bought it in '99.I thought, 'what a piece of junk.That old wore out xl12 cuts circles around this thing'.And I took it back, demanding my money back or a saw that would start sometimes today and would actually cut a log.I was a little frustrated.Anyway, the saw shop dude when he percieved the cause of my dissatisfaction, proceded to start her up and tune her up and we lived happily ever after.I have cut a whole bunch of wood with that 350,it's hard to even look at an xl12 or the like now, although we cut years worth of wood with that and an old Poulan(don't remember the model)I was the splitter in those days, Pops was the faller/bucker.
Price is always a consideration.I really hate to part with any bill $20 or larger:biggrin:But I do write it all of on my taxes so it doesn't hurt for long.
I was mostly just curious about what other firewood folks used for their saw.I cut anything I can get, and lately that seems to be 24" and up.Which I like.The ms 391 does real good and I haven't had any problems out of it, but then I got that 038mag and it quickly became my favorite.It has a couple more cc's than the 440, but I've never used a 440 or 441 so I can't compare.
yes, a good sharp chain makes a big differance.
I don't know what a 440 or 460 would actually cost, I got those prices off the website.Maybe they don't cost as much at the dealer.


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## ponyexpress976 (Aug 15, 2011)

I really like my 357xp. I have a 338, 346xp, and a 372xp. The 357xp is what ends up in my hands the most.


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## Hedgerow (Aug 15, 2011)

Swamp Yankee said:


> No right answer
> 
> Totally dependent on how much you cut and the size. Also what brands are available in your area.
> 
> ...


 
+1... Nothing wrong with the others, but nothing touches the power to weight of the 7900... Not even the venerable 346xp... Which will probably be my next saw...:msp_wink:


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## cheeves (Aug 15, 2011)

*firewood cutter*



redheadwoodshed said:


> I hope this doesn't end up in the chainsaw forum because I would like to hear from firewood folks. What is the best chainsaw for firewood.Right out of the box, fuel and oil, fire her up and cut.No mods or all that.Would like to hear all opinions


 I have to go up to Maine pretty soon to help my old buddy get his firewood in for the winter. I was thinking what to bring for saws. I own about 15. Here and on loan and sort of captured. After thinking about it I thought, " I have to bring my Efco." It always starts and runs and I always come home with a good load of firewood when I take it. I have a 262 Husky that I love. My Makita 6401 is serious and is soon to be a lot more serious after nmurph got thru building the 79cc setup. A little heavy for all day cutting though. Believe it or not my 310 Stihl now will really produce after a MM. But this is right out of the box efficient producer.

i would have to go with my Efco 156. Surprised the hell out of me when I first fired it up. I've been heating with wood since the oil embargo of the 70's! Have disconnected the gas furnace (pilot alone up here is $60 a month), So I know a little about heating with wood. Have logged professionally years ago. Still sell and give away firewood. Granted we don't have the big wood that is found inland but I lived in S.E.Ohio in the 80's and heated with wood using Stihl and Huskies almost exclusively. Aside from the 372 Husky and the 440/460 Stihl, and The Makita's I don't see anything that I would buy out there. Thanks Bob(Cheeves)


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## Hedgerow (Aug 15, 2011)

cheeves said:


> I have to go up to Maine pretty soon to help my old buddy get his firewood in for the winter. I was thinking what to bring for saws. I own about 15. Here and on loan and sort of captured. After thinking about it I thought, " I have to bring my Efco." It always starts and runs and I always come home with a good load of firewood when I take it. I have a 262 Husky that I love. My Makita 6401 is serious and is soon to be a lot more serious after nmurph got thru building the 79cc setup. A little heavy for all day cutting though. Believe it or not my 310 Stihl now will really produce after a MM. But this is right out of the box efficient producer.
> 
> i would have to go with my Efco 156. Surprised the hell out of me when I first fired it up. I've been heating with wood since the oil embargo of the 70's! Have disconnected the gas furnace (pilot alone up here is $60 a month), So I know a little about heating with wood. Have logged professionally years ago. Still sell and give away firewood. Granted we don't have the big wood that is found inland but I lived in S.E.Ohio in the 80's and heated with wood using Stihl and Huskies almost exclusively. Aside from the 372 Husky and the 440/460 Stihl, and The Makita's I don't see anything that I would buy out there. Thanks Bob(Cheeves)


 
The Efco saws are under rated for sure... The deere branded efco's were fine saws...


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## Streblerm (Aug 15, 2011)

The best saw for firewood is the one that starts and runs every time without a bunch of drama. It should easily handle an 18-20" bar, possibly as short as a 16" or possibly a 24" depending on your location and inclination. 50ish-70ish ccs depending on the same. How 's that?


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## saxman (Aug 15, 2011)

The best firwood saw is the one you feel comfortable with and has good dealer support nearby when you have an issue. Can you get by with a 290 or a 260? you sure can. The advantage to having the bigger 70 to 90cc saws is the speed at which they handle big wood. I have a MS660 with a 36" bar, do I use it much? not really but from time to time someone has a big tree they need help with and I can handle the job and end up with LOTS of firewood. Get a big saw and the wood will come to you.

Steve


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## redheadwoodshed (Aug 15, 2011)

Hedgerow said:


> +1... Nothing wrong with the others, but nothing touches the power to weight of the 7900... Not even the venerable 346xp... Which will probably be my next saw...:msp_wink:


 
How much is a new 7900?


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## Hedgerow (Aug 15, 2011)

redheadwoodshed said:


> How much is a new 7900?


 
~ $800.00... They're all over the place on price. Some less. Some more... I think mine ended up being around $750.00...


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## Will_C (Aug 15, 2011)

Some great answers here. The common theme seems to be that "cutting firewood" can mean many different things. I have benn cutting on and off for 35 years, doing it in many different scenarios, and have used a variety of saws.

My first cutting experience was cutting tops leftover from logging jobs. My father was an excvating contractor and former logger, so here had contacts to clean up after logging jobs. My job was to cut the smaller branches off the tops-I used a Mini-Mac 120 with a 12" bar-perfect for a 14 year old that weighed 120 lbs.

Later, when I had accumulated some experience with saws and grew, I would cut tops as dad skidded them out. He would skid 3-7 tops and/or whole reject trees every hitch, and I tried to keep up so the landing would be clear and he could push the blocks into a pile with the dozer. I used a ProMac 850-82ccs- and needed every bit of that saw's power to keep up with Dad.

I burned wood for a couple of years in the 1990's. My cutting consted of thinning at my brother's property and cleaning up tops after he had his woods logged, as well as cleaning up after an arborist friend did removal jobs I used a Husky 66 then-I had just bought a house, money was tight, and I picked the 66 up from a friend for a song. It was a little small for some of the huge pieces of wood I encountered cleaning up after the arborist, and a bit heavy for thinning work, but it was all I had and it got the job done.

After several years of not cutting, I am back in the game. My brother trades equipment hauling services with a local logger for tri-axle loads of logs-we are cutting up 7-10 loads a year for his use and to sell the rest. He has a Stihl 460, a 362, and an 028. I still have the 66 and a Stihl 260 I picked up last year because I wanted a lighter saw. We probaly use the smaller Stihls 50% of the time-we will break out the 460 for sticks over 14" or so, and now and them break out Dad's old Mac to stroll down memory lane.

Probably the "best" one saw we own is either the Husky 66 or the Stihl 362-and they are used the least!

Will


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## 046 (Aug 15, 2011)

046 ...


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## SPDRMNKY (Aug 15, 2011)

I cut firewood with the smallest saw possible. Until this year that meant 90% of my supply was cut with my MS170. From now on it'll probably be 90% cut with my MS 211. After cutting the leaves and twigs off, cutting the limbs to length, I just start on the smaller end and work my way down the trunk until I run out of gas or bar. why?...it'd take more time to walk back and get the big saw, than to just keep cutting...when I run out of gas (usually happens first), then I have to walk back anyway...time for the bigger saw.

all about least amount of time from first cut to last piece put on the pile. besides...big trees take longer to turn into firewood than small trees...or maybe it just seems that way :msp_tongue:

you want a 1 saw opinion for firewood?...I'm beginning to take notice of the MS 271...like to try one someday I think :msp_mellow:


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## woodbooga (Aug 15, 2011)

Not gonna get any respect from this post but what the hell,,,

I have a little 210 that positively sips. I can fill 1.5 Ranger beds on a single tank once felled. Bought it new as a relible firewood backup to my used 360pro and 2149 (jRed). I alternate between the 50 and 60 cc'ers, but always take little 210 along. Great limber and makes fairly quick through the 4-8" stuff. Seems almost wasteful to use a big saw on a 6" log.

My advice, bring one in the mid 30 cc range for routine and small stuff and something 50-80cc depending on the bigger work orders. The 50cc jred is usally all I need, though there's a ca. 1980 homelite in tow incase 84 ccs are needed


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## banshee67 (Aug 15, 2011)

i dont know who most of these guys think they are kidding
if they think they are above a wild thang, they are sorely mistaken
all you need are a couple wild thangs, some sharp blades, and some gatorade
one wild thang with a 16"
the other with a 24"
if that doesnt cut it, it aint worth cuttin


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## Iron Head (Aug 16, 2011)

woodbooga said:


> Not gonna get any respect from this post but what the hell,,,
> 
> I have a little 210 that positively sips. I can fill 1.5 Ranger beds on a single tank once felled. Bought it new as a relible firewood backup to my used 360pro and 2149 (jRed). I alternate between the 50 and 60 cc'ers, but always take little 210 along. Great limber and makes fairly quick through the 4-8" stuff. Seems almost wasteful to use a big saw on a 6" log.
> 
> My advice, bring one in the mid 30 cc range for routine and small stuff and something 50-80cc depending on the bigger work orders. The 50cc jred is usally all I need, though there's a ca. 1980 homelite in tow incase 84 ccs are needed


 
You got my respect. I totally agree.
The MS210 is perfect for what you said.
I've been cutting firewood only a few years. 
I started out with the MS210 and MS390.
My MS390 is lacking power the larger timber so I decided to replace it with an MS460.
If I can find an MS261 dirt cheap, I will replace my MS210; it's only a pound more in weight.


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## StihlKiwi (Aug 16, 2011)

Stihlman441 said:


> Your joking
> In Ozz a 460 goes for about $1450 and a 660 $1700
> But we do get dual port muffs and twin bumper spikes and even roller chain catchers.


 
Across the ditch we're paying $2300 for a 460 and $2500 for a 660, with the dual port muffer etc


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## blacklocst (Aug 16, 2011)

Streblerm said:


> The best saw for firewood is the one that starts and runs every time without a bunch of drama. It should easily handle an 18-20" bar, possibly as short as a 16" or possibly a 24" depending on your location and inclination. 50ish-70ish c.c.s depending on the same. How 's that?


 
Sounds like your talking about my 357xp.


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## pullmore (Aug 16, 2011)

At one time last year I had a ms 290 w/18", 038 mag w/24" and 36", and a ms192T. I used the 038 the most except when limbing. When I was running the 36" bar on the 038 for the big stuff (which is about every tree I get) and it did not have enough power. So I got rid of the 290 and 038 to help pay for a MS 660. I love the 660 it does not feel much heavier than the 038 and is alot faster. I wish I could try out a 460 sometime.


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## lone wolf (Aug 16, 2011)

StihlKiwi said:


> Across the ditch we're paying $2300 for a 460 and $2500 for a 660, with the dual port muffer etc


 
Ouch:msp_ohmy:for that price you should get a tree service for a day with it!


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## ancy (Aug 16, 2011)

My NIB Makita 6401 for $475 from Bailey's is the nuts for firewood. I did upgrade to the HD air filter kit but wouldn't have to be needed.


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## Hedgerow (Aug 16, 2011)

banshee67 said:


> i dont know who most of these guys think they are kidding
> if they think they are above a wild thang, they are sorely mistaken
> all you need are a couple wild thangs, some sharp blades, and some gatorade
> one wild thang with a 16"
> ...


 
I'd take a wild thang over my super 2 any day... I hate that saw... You wanna trade?
:canny:


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## redheadwoodshed (Aug 16, 2011)

pullmore said:


> At one time last year I had a ms 290 w/18", 038 mag w/24" and 36", and a ms192T. I used the 038 the most except when limbing. When I was running the 36" bar on the 038 for the big stuff (which is about every tree I get) and it did not have enough power. So I got rid of the 290 and 038 to help pay for a MS 660. I love the 660 it does not feel much heavier than the 038 and is alot faster. I wish I could try out a 460 sometime.


 
I had a 660 in mind, myself, but I don't think I want to get rid of my 038mag.The only thing standing between me and an MS 660 is about a thousand bucks, I'll have to wait and see how much I can sell this year.Most of the logs I get are pretty big and come from a sawmill(cull logs) so I don't do much limbing right now.I would like to run a 460 as well for a day and see how it does against the 038mag.One thing I'v noticed about that 038 is it's hard on a gas can,whereas the newer saws don't seem to drink as much.
If you don't mind me asking, exactly how much did that 660 cost, is actual price about the same as what Stihl's web-site list.And if it was cheaper than the website, were did you buy it.The shop here get's whatever the website says.


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## pullmore (Aug 16, 2011)

redheadwoodshed said:


> I had a 660 in mind, myself, but I don't think I want to get rid of my 038mag.The only thing standing between me and an MS 660 is about a thousand bucks, I'll have to wait and see how much I can sell this year.Most of the logs I get are pretty big and come from a sawmill(cull logs) so I don't do much limbing right now.I would like to run a 460 as well for a day and see how it does against the 038mag.One thing I'v noticed about that 038 is it's hard on a gas can,whereas the newer saws don't seem to drink as much.
> If you don't mind me asking, exactly how much did that 660 cost, is actual price about the same as what Stihl's web-site list.And if it was cheaper than the website, were did you buy it.The shop here get's whatever the website says.



The dealer wanted $1,110 for it with a 25" bar. I told him I did not want the bar. I already have a 24" and 36". I bought the powerhead and he gave me a 24" and 36" Oregon chain all for $1,049 with tax include in that. I bought it in Transylvania LA at the farm supply store. Maybe some time we can get together and I will let you run my 660 and see what you think of it.


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## fields_mj (Aug 16, 2011)

Like most have said, there's no one right anwer. On average a 40~50cc saw will do you well. If you cut a lot then you will be better served with 2 or maybe even 3 different saws, again depending on your specific needs. I would recomend that a person starts small, then goes big. Otherwise they end up with an in-between saw that doesn't get used much. By starting small, a person can figure out what size(s) will really be best for them, and then move to that keeping the smaller saw for smaller jobs because there are always smaller jobs to be done. Not every tree is a 60" red oak, but even a 60" red oak has small limbs that need to be taken off. Maybe the small saw is all a particular person really needs, or maybe they need something that will run a 24" bar and run it well. Nobody knows until they get their feet wet and cut for a while. 

As far as brands go, Dad and I have always used Stihl saws, and they've never let us down. We've found that they make a solid 15+ year investment. What I mean is even at 15 years old, they are still going strong, AND there are still plenty of parts available for them if something does wear out or get broken. Same for a few of the farmers that we cut on. As far as Stihl saws go, I perfer my 036 for most work, but most of what I cut is between 8" and 20" hard wood. I like my little 024 for limbing, and my 064 is great for bigger trees and noodling. I've spent a lot of time on an 041 as well, and back in the 80s that was one heck of a saw. I like the older Stihl saws because I can pick them up pretty cheap (around $200 or less in good working order), and they still run forever. Dad has an 028 that he bought new in the early 90's and for straight up firewood, it's an excelent saw. He even cut up a 6' maple in his yard that he had taken down a few years ago (before I got the 064). It took him a few Saturdays to get the trunk bucked up, but by noodling off smaller chunks, he got it done. A local farmer that I know has 8 Stihl saws, but does 90% of his cutting with one of the two 026 saws that he has. I'm still working on him to get rid of one of his 034s, I'd love to have a spare...  

In short, using older Stihl saws for reference, as a firewood only saw I would want something between an 026 and a 036 depending on what wood is available. The 028 fits that bill extreemly well. It's just a tad big to be a "small" saw, but if you know that you are only going to be cutting a few cords a year, and you're not going to be cutting very much that's over 20" across, then it's a fantastic saw. The 028 has a reputation for being hard to kill, and I've seen them in good shape go for $150. They wear an 18" bar extreemly well. For my specific circumstances, the 028 was a tad on the small side, especially since I already had an 024 that I picked up for the fun of cutting back while I was living in an appartment. The woods that I cut in the most has a lot of old, mature trees, and we don't cut anything unless its dead, going to come down in a field/lane way, or it's a top that the logging company left behind (most of these tops are 18"+ at the base, and some are well over 24"). The 036 worked well for most of it, but I found myself often working on trees that had blown down that were over 24" across, and an 18" bar just wouldn't get a few of them, so I found a good deal on the 064. For what it's worth, I have less than $800 wrapped up in all 3 of my saws total, and I payed twice what the 024 was worth when I bought it. I'm sure the new saws are very nice, but I can do most of my own repairs (with help from some of the guys on here), and now that I have a house payment, a wife (to justify my expenses to) and 2 toddlers running around the house, my tools have to pay for themselves, and it's just plain hard to beat the return on investment that I get out of a $200 036 that will likely last me for longer than I care to think about  I've read enough input from folks on the chainsaw forum to know that Stihl, Husky, J-red, Dolmar, Efco (and all the various other namplates that those saws wear) all make very good equipment as well.

Just my 2 bits,
Mark


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## zogger (Aug 16, 2011)

*028*



fields_mj said:


> Like most have said, there's no one right anwer. On average a 40~50cc saw will do you well. If you cut a lot then you will be better served with 2 or maybe even 3 different saws, again depending on your specific needs. I would recomend that a person starts small, then goes big. Otherwise they end up with an in-between saw that doesn't get used much. By starting small, a person can figure out what size(s) will really be best for them, and then move to that keeping the smaller saw for smaller jobs because there are always smaller jobs to be done. Not every tree is a 60" red oak, but even a 60" red oak has small limbs that need to be taken off. Maybe the small saw is all a particular person really needs, or maybe they need something that will run a 24" bar and run it well. Nobody knows until they get their feet wet and cut for a while.
> 
> As far as brands go, Dad and I have always used Stihl saws, and they've never let us down. We've found that they make a solid 15+ year investment. What I mean is even at 15 years old, they are still going strong, AND there are still plenty of parts available for them if something does wear out or get broken. Same for a few of the farmers that we cut on. As far as Stihl saws go, I perfer my 036 for most work, but most of what I cut is between 8" and 20" hard wood. I like my little 024 for limbing, and my 064 is great for bigger trees and noodling. I've spent a lot of time on an 041 as well, and back in the 80s that was one heck of a saw. I like the older Stihl saws because I can pick them up pretty cheap (around $200 or less in good working order), and they still run forever. Dad has an 028 that he bought new in the early 90's and for straight up firewood, it's an excelent saw. He even cut up a 6' maple in his yard that he had taken down a few years ago (before I got the 064). It took him a few Saturdays to get the trunk bucked up, but by noodling off smaller chunks, he got it done. A local farmer that I know has 8 Stihl saws, but does 90% of his cutting with one of the two 026 saws that he has. I'm still working on him to get rid of one of his 034s, I'd love to have a spare...
> 
> ...



I have a well used one that was given to me that I want to rebuild. Basically junk except for the case and p/c. Needs av mounts, proly a carb kit, clutch action, ignition, blah blah. I hope it works as well, whenever I get it done, as your recommendation!


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## Stihlman441 (Aug 19, 2011)

This may help show the differance between a 261 (muff mod) and a stock 460 (Ozzy model with dual port muff) both with the same Carlton chisel 3/8 chains.Wood is green sugar gum.

[video=youtube;c40EbbuNwlE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c40EbbuNwlE[/video]

[video=youtube;gLsbSOUUuOg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLsbSOUUuOg[/video]


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## cmsmoke (Aug 19, 2011)

This is a loaded question, CAD must be factored in. That being said, everyone needs at least 2. One saw for limbing and smaller stuff and one monster hammer for large stuff!!:hmm3grin2orange:


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## fields_mj (Aug 19, 2011)

cmsmoke said:


> This is a loaded question, CAD must be factored in. That being said, everyone needs at least 2. One saw for limbing and smaller stuff and one monster hammer for large stuff!!:hmm3grin2orange:


 

If you cut on your own, you need 2 saws because at some point you will pinch the bar and you'll need a second saw to get it free. It can be done with an axe, but it takes MUCH longer.... trust me. Another good reason to start out on a moderatly worn smaller saw


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## barton174 (Aug 19, 2011)

I really like a 50-60cc saw around here, for most stuff... I've got an 18" bar with a 3/8" chain on my mufmodded Dolkita 540, an it's really pretty good for most stuff... Big enough that it pulls well through 18" logs, but light enough that it's not a PITA to run all day...

Mike


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## Iron Head (Aug 19, 2011)

Stihlman, amazingly there is not a huge difference b/w that 261 and the 460.


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## spike60 (Aug 19, 2011)

There's really no such thing as "best". There are so many different sizes/models that work great as the many previous posts illustrate. We do tend to slant towards bigger saws here because most of us are saw geeks to some degree or another. And yeah, the power is great. But unless you are into bigger wood on a regular basis, it's hard to say that a 372 type saw in necessary. The average sized firewood log can be handled by any decent 50cc class saw. 

I do agree strongly that it's a good idea to go into the woods with more than one saw. Getting stuck, wrecking the chain, breaking a starter rope, etc is a real pain without a backup saw in the truck. 

Another suggestion that might raise some eyebrows is that I'd be careful buying some of the second tier saw brands. Stihl and Husky are solid brands that will obviously be here for the long haul. I don't know that you can have confidence in some of the other brands still being on the market 10 years down the road when you may need parts support. Not knocking the saws themselves, but it's something to think about.


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## TreePointer (Aug 19, 2011)

The best firewood saw is a 50cc & 70cc pro combo. Convince yourself that it's not really two saws, but a tool set. You wouldn't have a tool bag with a Phillips and no flat head screwdriver, would you?

:greenchainsaw:


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## Wood Doctor (Aug 19, 2011)

*Ms 361*

If I had to throw every saw away that I own and keep just one, I'd keep my Stihl MS 361. But, you already knew that, didn't you?

To me, it's the most versatile saw that Stihl sells and the one with the greatest Hp-to-weight ratio. For firewood collection, I rate it at the top.

*MS 361 Rocks!*


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## Chud (Aug 19, 2011)

Lot's of good info. I use 50cc as long as I can and move up to 70cc for the fat part. 

For the longest time I used a 242-044 combo
moved up to 260-441 combo
now using 261-441
next week 261-460


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## fields_mj (Aug 20, 2011)

Iron Head said:


> Stihlman, amazingly there is not a huge difference b/w that 261 and the 460.


 
Looked to me like the 261 was running about 17 sec, and the 441 was running about 9 sec. Purely by the numbers, that's a huge difference, as is to be expected. However, if you consider the real world application in how much longer would it take to cut a truckload of wood, the 261 would still get the job done in a reasonable amount of time. The reality is that for a lot of folks, the wood in those videos was on the bigger side of what they normally cut. It's still well within the normal "firewood" size, just on the the bigger side of things. When you move into smaller pieces, the difference becomes less and less. The other thing to consider is that most of our time is spent doing stuff other than actually cutting. So at the end of the day, even though the 441 is almost twice as fast as a 261, it wouldn't take much longer to get a load cut if all you had was the 261.


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## cheeves (Aug 20, 2011)

Wood Doctor said:


> If I had to throw every saw away that I own and keep just one, I'd keep my Stihl MS 361. But, you already knew that, didn't you?
> 
> To me, it's the most versatile saw that Stihl sells and the one with the greatest Hp-to-weight ratio. For firewood collection, I rate it at the top.
> 
> *MS 361 Rocks!*


 
It's a tremendous saw! Friend has one but one problem we have is that here on the coast we have fast weather changes and for some reason my friends 361 doesn't like it ,especially damp cold. Very hard starting some times. Even with starter fluid. My 310 is similar. Bob (Cheeves)


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## spike60 (Aug 20, 2011)

fields_mj said:


> So at the end of the day, even though the 441 is almost twice as fast as a 261, it wouldn't take much longer to get a load cut if all you had was the 261.



Yup, you got it.

BloodOnTheIce and I did a little experiment a while back. Compared a Dolmar 7900 and a 346NE in 14" hard maple. As expected, the 7900 toasted the 346 by 4 seconds, which in cookie cutting is a big deal. But we did some math and thought that you might make 30 such cuts to fill a pickup truck with wood. 30 cuts X 4 seconds equals out to two minutes. Time wise, that's a meaningless difference for the job at hand. 

And lot's of guys would be happy to give up those two minutes for the two less pounds of weight with the 346. Then there's the $300-$400 price difference.............


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## mesupra (Aug 21, 2011)

Gotta second TreePointer, 50 & 70 class saw(s), not 50-70cc saw. You really need two, no sense in cutting 8" stuff with my 576xp and no sense in cutting 24" stuff with my 346xp. Can I logically justify having two pro saws to cut 8-12 cord a year while I burn only 4? NO. Can I justify building a new, faster, better splitter when I have one with a 12 second cycle time for under $400? If I had to have only one saw to cut tree length firewood it would be a 70cc class saw of your preferred brand. At this moment in time I would choose the 576xp autotune.

Not to hijack the thread but I have been running a greyhound 6.5hp honda clone (chongda) on the splitter with great results. $79 dollars to split 10 cord of wood so far is pretty good.

Can anyone lead me to a good thread on homebuilt splitters, I have a 13hp chongda clone sitting on the bench.


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## sunfish (Aug 21, 2011)

Hell, any chainsaw is better than a handsaw!

If I could only have one? Best?

Well, I have two of them already, so I'm set.


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## rob066 (Aug 22, 2011)

Most of the firewood I cut is between 12 to 18 inches. The two saws I use most are the Husky346 and the Stihl 361. I have bigger saws for bigger trees if I need them. But I usually dont need them for even the bigger trees. Most are under 30 inches. The bigger trees are far and few lately. If I need to I can cut them with my 361 and dont really need anything bigger.


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## Wood Doctor (Aug 22, 2011)

*Agreed...*



rob066 said:


> Most of the firewood I cut is between 12 to 18 inches. The two saws I use most are the Husky346 and the Stihl 361. I have bigger saws for bigger trees if I need them. But I usually dont need them for even the bigger trees. Most are under 30 inches. The bigger trees are far and few lately. If I need to I can cut them with my 361 and dont really need anything bigger.


And, usually a smaller saw is handier than a bigger one. I keep a 40 cc class saw for that (Echo 3900), and lately I backed it up with a vintage Stihl 010 AV, just in case one of them goes on the blink. The lighter saws are great for limbing and small bucking.


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## sunfish (Aug 22, 2011)

Question, should read. ' Your Favorite Firewood Saw '

I like the smaller high performance saws best...


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## Misfit138 (Aug 22, 2011)

When I hear 'firewood saw' I am thinking a saw for limbing, bucking and noodling. In which case, I think you will be happy with a ~60cc saw with an 18" or 20" bar. Husqy and Stihl both have a good assortment in the mid-range (landowner) varieties.


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## v8titan (Aug 22, 2011)

460 gets my vote. I have had mine for about 6 months now and couldn't be more pleased with the performance.


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## cheeves (Aug 22, 2011)

Swamp Yankee said:


> No right answer
> 
> Totally dependent on how much you cut and the size. Also what brands are available in your area.
> 
> ...


 I agree with Swamp Yankee!! Just got a 79cc in the mail from nmurph. Just installed kit from the 6401. Cut up an old cherry tree in a flash!!! Puts firewood cutting in a whole different dimension. Incredible saw. If I was allowed only 1 saw for cutting my firewood. And I heat 100% with wood since 1976. It would be this Makita 79cc! Bob (Cheeves)


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## Slackerjpt (Sep 1, 2011)

Hedgerow said:


> ~ $800.00... They're all over the place on price. Some less. Some more... I think mine ended up being around $750.00...


 
Is that with or without the bar and chain?


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