# best chain for cutting fire wood ?



## whiting-5 (Oct 30, 2008)

just curious what type of chains you guys run brand and type regular or skip tooth ive been running husky chains (thats all i can get local) would like to expand my options and order off the internet but want something thats going to work well for me mostly just cutting hardwood firewood up dont mind spending thebucks for something good just dont want to get burned. thanks guys.


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## darren_nh (Oct 30, 2008)

I use Stihl RSC. About $20 a chain in 16" and 18" at the dealer.


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## avalancher (Oct 30, 2008)

darren_nh said:


> I use Stihl RSC. About $20 a chain in 16" and 18" at the dealer.




A sharp one too!
ok, kidding aside, gotta agree on the Stihl RSC, its the longest lasting and one of the fastest ones out there. Costs a few bucks more, but worth it.
If you are going to run into any dirty wood, keep a loop or two of semi chisel in your box, it will hold an edge longer than full chisel.Doesnt cut quite as fast, but its worth the extra time it will save you sharpening all the time.


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## drmiller100 (Oct 30, 2008)

for sure skip tooth. you can't measure the difference in speed in cutting, but you can measure the speed in sharpening.


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## ShoerFast (Oct 30, 2008)

whiting-5

Welcome to the site! 

Why not get your pitch, gauge, and DL count sized up and get a one of 2 of all the options that suit you. 

You will develop a favorite in no time is my bet. 

Make sure you pick up plently of good files to fit the chain also, Stihl chain really likes fresh files.


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## timberwolf (Oct 30, 2008)

Likely more importaint than brand is just having a shap chain. Forget skip unless you are running long bars on small saws. Skip wears out faster as each cutter needs to cut more wood, and it is slower and rougher cutting in smaller wood. There are only about 4 manufactures of chain it just gets sold under different names.

Chain with a square corner (chisle) cuts faster than a rounded (semi Chisle) but is more subject to getting dulled in dirty conditions. Safety chain in general cuts slower, but is less prone to kickback if accidentally mishandled.


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## abohac (Oct 30, 2008)

I use Carlton full comp (it's called something else becasue I get it from a wholesaler, but Carleton makes it). I'm pleased with it. I buy it by the 100 ft roll.


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## STEVEGODSEYJR (Oct 30, 2008)

abohac said:


> I use Carlton full comp (it's called something else becasue I get it from a wholesaler, but Carleton makes it). I'm pleased with it. I buy it by the 100 ft roll.


I think baileys "RC" chain is made by carelton....any who it is a very good chain also


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## 68kaiser (Oct 30, 2008)

I great results with OREGON chain from baileys. The 75JGX its round skip chiesel. The key is to keep it sharp.


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## Patrick62 (Oct 30, 2008)

*It all depends...*

on what powerhead you have, what you are cutting, etc.

I prefer full skip on 24" and longer bars. RCS from baileys. Good stuff!

-Pat


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## Signoflife (Oct 30, 2008)

whiting-5 said:


> just curious what type of chains you guys run brand and type regular or skip tooth ive been running husky chains (thats all i can get local) would like to expand my options and order off the internet but want something thats going to work well for me mostly just cutting hardwood firewood up dont mind spending thebucks for something good just dont want to get burned. thanks guys.




I have used the Stihl RS/RSC chains and the Oregon LP/LPX/LG/LGX chains on my saws full comp since most of my cutting is in clean hardwood with properly match saw/bar combo and I have found all of these to be good.

To get better suggestions more specific to your setup, you should provide the following information:
1. What size/model saw.
2. Bar length and gauge.
3. Sprocket pitch.
4. Clean or dirty wood / conditions.
5. Do you keep the chain out of the dirt / ground and away stones, nails, etc...
6. How much experience do you have with saws and kickback?
7. If you do much ripping (along the length of tree) or mostly cross cutting (across the grain).

I think that's it.


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## whiting-5 (Oct 30, 2008)

i run 2 saws my big one is a husky 385xp 24 inch bar cut mostly clean hardwoods do hardly no ripping. keep it up out of the dirt not alot of experince but operate pretty well. ive been using a skip tooth chain.

my second saw is a husky rancher 455 with 20 inch bar 

thanks for the help guys.


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## timberwolf (Oct 30, 2008)

Either saw will run 3/8 full comp chain, likely only want 7 tooth sprockets though. Then which ever chisel cutter chain brand you wan't they are all pretty close. Stihl is a bit more beefy but so is the price tag.


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## whiting-5 (Oct 30, 2008)

hey timber have question on the sprocket are these changeble like changing gears in a car higher/lower more rpm or more tourqe etc? just curious


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## Signoflife (Oct 30, 2008)

whiting-5 said:


> i run 2 saws my big one is a husky 385xp 24 inch bar cut mostly clean hardwoods do hardly no ripping. keep it up out of the dirt not alot of experince but operate pretty well. ive been using a skip tooth chain.
> 
> my second saw is a husky rancher 455 with 20 inch bar
> 
> thanks for the help guys.



Sounds similar to the conditions I cut in so...

For the 385XP I would run an Oregon LGX (they have the blue cutters, slightly harder, stays sharp longer a little harder to sharpen but worth it) or the Stihl RSC, either way whatever your sprocket is 3/8" (.375") or .404"

For the 455 I would possibly run the Oregon LGX as well or if you want a saw/chain with slight kickback protection you could try the LPX (which I have for a couple of my saws and I don't notice any significant loss in cutting speed and if you have a helper less familar with cutting its a little easier / safer for them) or again the Stihl RSC chain in either the .325" or 3/8" to match your sprocket.

Keep the chain sharp, don't let them get to dull and if you hand file, get the proper holder / angle tool for the right diameter files and after each 1/2 to full day of clean cutting touch the chain up with a few rubs to bring it back. After every couple sharpenings, check the drags and scrub those down as well, but use the depth gauge as well, not good to take these down below the recommended depth, it gets grabby!


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## Signoflife (Oct 30, 2008)

Whiting I would also suggest you could use full comp chains and not the skip on those saw and bar combo's. You should find the saws stay sharper longer and should cut smoother in your size of wood. As well more cutting teeth at full rpm's should cut faster as well, maybe not be noticeable over a few blocks but after a couple trees it adds up. Skip is usually used for longer bar / bigger wood combo's.

As for the sprockets I believe your saws would come stock with 7 tooth (you can count them) and could be changed to 8 tooth which would give you more chain speed but yes less torque. I wouldn't suggest it on the 455 but the 385XP even stock could probably handle the 8 tooth sprocket with the 24inch bar fairly well if you are not cutting in too big and hard wood.


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## drmiller100 (Oct 30, 2008)

that all sounds great if you are racing, or cutting a few perfect rounds.

Real world says you start the day with a sharp chain, and cutting wood with rocks here and there.

as the day goes on, you start leaning into the saw more and more..... eventually you hit enough rocks you stop and sharpen.

the number of teeth you have has NOTHING to do with how long the saw stays sharp. Neither does the number of teeth. 

Less teeth means you are more likely to sharpen.


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## Signoflife (Oct 31, 2008)

drmiller100 said:


> that all sounds great if you are racing, or cutting a few perfect rounds.
> 
> Real world says you start the day with a sharp chain, and cutting wood with rocks here and there.
> 
> ...



Last time I checked, my saw is real, wood I cut is real, rocks all around are real, dirt real, yup world is real here too...I guess some people could take a little more care as well, with proper care, chucking some blocks under logs, using log rollers / can-hooks, tend to keep my chains away from rocks. I have cut real wood for years and have had many chains run there life without ever touching a rock or dirt. It has happened a few times sure, and you do know it right away. As far as the number of cutting teeth I would think that half or two thirds the cutting teeth would have to do more work to cut the same amount of wood and therefore dullen that 50% to 33% faster in direct relation to number of teeth, could be wrong but I can't see it.


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## AOD (Oct 31, 2008)

I think full skip dulls really fast too, it seems to only stay sharp for 2 or 3 cuts for me, and thats in clean hardwood. Full comp sounds like a better plan...


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## drmiller100 (Oct 31, 2008)

Signoflife said:


> Last time I checked, my saw is real, wood I cut is real, rocks all around are real, dirt real, yup world is real here too...I guess some people could take a little more care as well, with proper care, chucking some blocks under logs, using log rollers / can-hooks, tend to keep my chains away from rocks. I have cut real wood for years and have had many chains run there life without ever touching a rock or dirt. It has happened a few times sure, and you do know it right away. As far as the number of cutting teeth I would think that half or two thirds the cutting teeth would have to do more work to cut the same amount of wood and therefore dullen that 50% to 33% faster in direct relation to number of teeth, could be wrong but I can't see it.



in the past year, i've cut 150 cords or so, all of it 3 feet off the ground. pick the logs off the ground with skid steer, put them on the table, and cut them up.

dang bark holds sand and rocks. danged logs get those splits in them that hold sand and rocks. 

sure would be neat to have logs that never have sand, dirt, or rocks in them from falling on the ground.


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## Signoflife (Oct 31, 2008)

drmiller100 said:


> in the past year, i've cut 150 cords or so, all of it 3 feet off the ground. pick the logs off the ground with skid steer, put them on the table, and cut them up.
> 
> dang bark holds sand and rocks. danged logs get those splits in them that hold sand and rocks.
> 
> sure would be neat to have logs that never have sand, dirt, or rocks in them from falling on the ground.



Dr, if you are talking face cord then you cut 2 to 3 times as much as I do a year, if you a talking bush then thats a crap load more. I don't sell wood and only use about (6 to 8) face cord a year myself, I cut mostly for the parents. I am not done yet this year but so far - (37 to 38) face cord for inlaws and (8) for my folks, friends(6), neighbours(2).:greenchainsaw: 

I drop trees and cut them as they lay, meaning I won't drag them out or move them around with equipment as that is when I have found the mud, dirt, sand, stones... cover or get ground into the wood. If you have the grapple/claw machines and can pick them straight up that I think would be different.

However only 5 times in 26 years of working saws have I been cutting and hit something that took the edge off right away, 3 stones (one lodged up inside bark/groove underside log from fall & two careless), one other time in the middle of a Suger Maple, couldn't figure it out until later - a metal sap spile left and grown into tree from 30ish years gone by - took all the cutters on one side to nothing - took 4 filings to get the chain back to proper, what a pizzer. The last was frozen composted rot like dirt in the centre of a log, boy that was nasty too.

Point is I try everything possible to avoid any stuff that the chain won't like, I like to cut all day (only cut on weekends) using one or two of my saws, and then at days end or before next going out, file them with 3 to 6 rubs per tooth to get back to super sharp, scrape drags as and if needed, since I hand file I hate working and working on teeth, fussing away trying to get all teeth even, chewin away at some good teeth more cause some were wacked more than others...Like you said start the day with sharp chains...a dull one is the worst and fixin it is just as frustrating. A sharp chain is a fine thing! My wife thinks I am nuts but she still likes me, I think. 

Boy I rattled on but that's just my 3cents.


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## stihl sawing (Oct 31, 2008)

I use stihl RS and RSC. Can't beat the quality. just keep whatever ya run sharp.


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## drmiller100 (Nov 1, 2008)

i don't know bush cept'in a purty gurls lower parts.

a cord is 4x4x8. them's feet.

when i say 150 cord, i'm talking about 8 full semis of logs, each 8 feet wide, 8 feet tall, and 42 feet long.

mebbe it is less, mebbe it is more. i chops it up, spits it, and rumor has it i sells some.


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## Signoflife (Nov 1, 2008)

4'x4'x8' that's what we call bush, at 150 of those a year you must cut pretty much full time or have a little help and buy the chains by the reel, real long. That much wood might justify one of those wood processors and therefore less chainsaw work.

As far as the other goes there is a funny scene about "bush" in the movie The Heartbreak Kid with Ben and Jerry Stiller, involves a girl, Ben and I think it was a jelly fish.


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## drmiller100 (Nov 1, 2008)

i built a processor. 

10 full cords a day for 2 guys if you keep after it for a solid 8 hours, and things go reasonably well.


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## mtfallsmikey (Nov 3, 2008)

Stihl RSC on the 290, 036

The (newer) style PMMC chain I use on the 170 is unreal...2 days of limbing....and some bucking (to show off!)..."Stihl" cuts good!


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## ngzcaz (Nov 3, 2008)

Only read the first page of this but I didnt see any mention of carbide tip chains. I know they make them ( probably not for all manufacturers ) and was curious they weren't mentioned.

:jawdrop:


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## bowtechmadman (Nov 3, 2008)

I cut real wood (atleast 10 cord a year) and usually the cheapest chains I can get my hands on are the best. Most important aspect in my humble opinion is keeping them sharp.
Without a stopwatch I dont' think I can tell the difference btw Woodsman pro (carlton from bailey's), Oregon, or Stihl. No matter what chain it is I hit them w/ a few strokes of the file every time I fill the tank.
I've watched some darn nice saws look VERY BAD just b/c the owner didn't want or know how to keep a chain sharp.


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## stihl sawing (Nov 3, 2008)

ngzcaz said:


> Only read the first page of this but I didnt see any mention of carbide tip chains. I know they make them ( probably not for all manufacturers ) and was curious they weren't mentioned.
> 
> :jawdrop:


Carbide chains are too expensive and you can't sharpen them with a file. They are useless for firewood cutting. Any chain will cut if you keep it sharp. Some chains just stay sharper longer like the stihl chain.


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