# Splitting/Chopping Tool Review Thread



## spike60

This idea came up in CTYank's council tool thread, so I thought I'd kick it off. Thought is that each of us comment on the tools that we actually own and use. Pics if possible. Just share our personal opinions about what we like and don't like. Two suggestions that we ought to stick to so that this doesn't devolve into unnecessary arguments as has happened in a few other threads. Let's try and stick to talking about our own tools. Everyone is entitled to their own viewpoint about their own tools, so lets have none of that crap where guys step in and criticize people for thinking differently than they would. Let's keep it informative, constructive and friendly, OK?

So, here's my fleet of tools. 6lb. Yellow handle maul by Collins Axe. Second is a 6.5lb Total brand maul from Tilton. 5lb Husky splitting axe, Couple of old 3.5-4lb axes, and a couple of 3lb short handle axes, one Husky, one Collins.

Looking at the 2 mauls first. The Collins has a head similar to the council tool. Good and consistent taper. It came with the same 1/8 inch back shoulder that is on the councils, and I put the edge on it. The Total has a new idea type head that I'm not real fond of. It's taper makes a kind of abrupt transition from "not enough" to "too much". More prone to getting stuck than the Collins. When it splits, that abrupt change really shoots the two splits apart. They just fly in either direction farther than they need to. (insert ankle joke here). I do like the handle on the total as I prefer a flatter axe type handle vs the rounder sledge type. I'm just more accurate with a flatter handle. Used both of them last weekend on some large ash rounds. 20+ inches. Needed to half or quarter them to carry them to the truck. The Collins was a clear winner here. There were a couple that were ignoring the Total, but gave it up to the Collins. On smaller stuff, either did the job. Prices for both are in the 30-35 range.

I'll do the axes in the next post.


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## Gypo Logger

Its hard to beat a 6# Collins with a 36" hichory handle,but the double bevel maul is useless for anything but kindling.


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## svk

Good thread, and nice fleet.


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## spike60

The 2 old axes are freebies. The red one I found lying in the woods a while back. The other is an old axe head I found in a barn. Stamping on it is "S U S Rodgers"; can't find anything about it online. Somebody gave me a handle that they couldn't use, so total cost for the 2 of them is zero $. Pretty hard to beat that, huh?  I put a real nice edge on the two of them. These things have just been sitting around not getting used, but after getting the Husky splitting axe, and reading some posts from Chris-PA and few others I figured I'd try them for splitting. (Any chopping stuff I do with an axe I always grab the lighter 24" handle ones.) Both of those old axes work really good. (And I'd never really given them a thought before.) Good speed and you can go a long time with no fatigue at all. The longer handles are well matched to the heavier axe heads so the feel is just right IMO. Snaps the wood pretty easy and the splits stay pretty close to the block. Not really the answer for real big rounds, but these previously ignored tools always make the trip now. The Husky axe is a near perfect blend of all of them. Better taper than the other axes, so a little better suited to splitting duty. You do need to pay attention to the different handle lengths when going back and forth between several tools.


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## spike60

svk said:


> Good thread, and nice fleet.



You were one of the guys who gave me this idea, and I'm hoping you'll join in here. 

This is some of the stuff I've been banging away on. Mixture of ash, oak, maple and hickory.


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## spike60

Gypo Logger said:


> Its hard to beat a 6# Collins with a 36" hichory handle,but the double bevel maul is useless for anything but kindling.



Not even that. The smaller axes or hatchets are much better for kindling. The Husky and large axes are better when splitting small to medium wood. So the Total is kind of the odd man out in that group cause it's not the best choice for any particular task. OK to have around as a spare, but that's about it.


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## svk

Here's the only recent picture I've got. My 8 lb maul is broken and the head is MIA in my garage. I think its under the radial arm saw table which is almost buried in wood scraps (which will be used for kindling this winter). I've got a new handle to put on once I unearth it.

This picture was from the Leveraxe test thread, the LA is the traveling one and not mine.

Left to right: True Temper Splitting Axe, True Temper 6# maul, and x27.

1) Splitting axe is a nice tool on straight grained stuff and easy to swing. Has it's limitations on tougher wood. True Temper factory handle is a little rough, could use some sanding and a coat of BLO but I don't use it much.
2)The maul works OK. Better on knotty stuff than the Fiskars but doesn't work nearly as well on green wood, tends to just stick in the round.
3) BEST SPLITTING TOOL EVER MADE BAR NONE.....Just kidding but do most of my work with this. Best _all-around_ splitting tool I have used *up to this point*. Works great on most ash, aspen, maple, and birch which is 95% of what I cut.
4) (Not Pictured) 8 Lb maul, brand unknown. Looks just like the 6 but the head is blue. Performance similar to #2 but the extra weight tires you our faster. Works a little better on difficult pieces than #2 or #3.
5) (Not Pictured) "Kindling Axe". Basically a splitting axe like #1 with about 1/2 of the handle cut off. This is used to reduce splits to kindling, basically one handed operation on the axe and one setting wood on the chopping block. Not sure if others used something like this or not.



With that being said, I'd like to try out the "Big Ox" and also the higher end mid weight splitting tools.


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## Erik B

spike60 said:


> The 2 old axes are freebies. The red one I found lying in the woods a while back. The other is an old axe head I found in a barn. Stamping on it is "S U S Rodgers"; can't find anything about it online. Somebody gave me a handle that they couldn't use, so total cost for the 2 of them is zero $. Pretty hard to beat that, huh?  I put a real nice edge on the two of them. These things have just been sitting around not getting used, but after getting the Husky splitting axe, and reading some posts from ChrisPA and few others I figured I'd try them for splitting. (Any chopping stuff I do with an axe I always grab the lighter 24" handle ones.) Both of those old axes work really good. (And I'd never really given them a thought before.) Good speed and you can go a long time with no fatigue at all. The longer handles are well matched to the heavier axe heads so the feel is just right IMO. Snaps the wood pretty easy and the splits stay pretty close to the block. Not really the answer for real big rounds, but these previously ignored tools always make the trip now. The Husky axe is a near perfect blend of all of them. Better taper than the other axes, so a little better suited to splitting duty. You do need to pay attention to the different handle lengths when going back and forth between several tools.
> 
> That red handled axe you have looks to be a PLUMB axe. I have a Boy Scout knife and hatchet set that I got back in the early 60's and the hatchet is a smaller version of your axe. It even has that same red plastic looking stuff on the eye of the head.


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## CTYank

Mauls are of interest to me also for driving wedges with their polls. The best I've seen for driving wedges without mushrooming are my 3 kg Mueller or 6 lb Council Tools mauls. Really tough steel in their polls. Wetterlings is a bit more malleable.

For splitting:
*big, nasty, tough splittable* stuff- Mueller 3 kg. Sharp edge, flat evenly tapered faces at ~30 deg. angle. Really substantial handle, that hasn't been touched in 3 yrs by a split, because the max width of the head is back around the midpoint of the eye.
*large, relatively straight-grained* stuff- Wetterlings 2.5 kg or 6 lb Council Tools mauls. Whichever's closest. Couple of reworked big-box-store cheapie mauls get some exercise too with the mid-range stuff. They can handle it now, just not the greatest steel.
*small stuff, kindling*- 3.5 lb Jersey-pattern Council Tools axe

*Unsplittable* stuff- noodle as little as possible, then assault with suitable choice from the above, with a wedge or two to suit.

We've seen pix already of these mauls. Wan't more? 

Maul head angle: checking with a bevel, the angle near the edge is very close to 30 deg with Mueller, cheapies that were modeled on it, Wetterlings, and Council Tools mauls. Surprisingly consistent, but the Wetterlings and Council Tools mauls only maintain that angle for an inch and change from the edge. Either version seems to work.

Wedges: HF has some pretty good wedges nowadays. Just like most cheapie mauls, they need the attention of a grinder for sharpening. Then they can be used for splitting wood.


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## svk

CTYank said:


> We've seen pix already of these mauls. Wan't more?


For visual comparison, yes please lay them all out next to each other.

Why don't you throw that shelf queen Dolmar in the photo too...Have you even put it to wood yet? We just got a Dolmar dealership in the town nearest my cabin.


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## Erik B

That red handled axe you have looks to be a PLUMB axe. I have a Boy Scout knife and hatchet set that I got back in the early 60's and the hatchet is a smaller version of your axe. It even has that same red plastic looking stuff on the eye of the head.


I was having problems with my post being faded out. Hope this is better.


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## El Quachito

Good thread.

I use a #6 maul. The head is Mexican steal and the original handle was plastic. I installed a wood handle and filed on it a bit. I also split a lot with a 3-5 pound axe.

I will post pics someday.


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## spike60

Good shot Erik; the red axe is a Plumb. Still stamped in the head, but needed a little cleaning to read it.


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## zogger

Left to right, 8lb anvil on a stick, original Fiskars supersplitter, Husky/Wetterlings wood handle, generic utility axe I've had so long I don't remember when or where I bought it, synthetic fiberglass handle still great.

Split with all of them, of the bunch, the Fiskars is the easiest in most wood. The anvil on a stick will bust almost everything, you just get whipped running it in extended sessions, well, I do anyway. The husky is close to the fiskars but not a fan of wood handles that wear out quickly, plus the head shape sticks easier if you don't get a clean split. The plus is you can smack wedges with it. I learned to split with a light utility chopper axe like the one on the right, I still can, but the Fiskars is soooo much easier.

I have wedges but don't use then much at all for splitting, they are just too dang small. To me, anything that needs one or more wedges you are better off noodling. Now if they had one about 10-15 lbs and like fat and two feet long, maybe. Whenever I try wedges I just get them buried and stuck, it's silly.


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## svk

That Husky tool sure has an interesting look!


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## zogger

svk said:


> That Husky tool sure has an interesting look!



Ya, it and the Fiskars are much closer to a proper shape for a sharp swung wedge on a stick. These splitters and mauls with the flared out design, like a chopping axe..there's no point to, it's marketing "optics". They don't need to "look" like an axe, they need to function as a splitter and the shape is what it is then, a big splitting wedge. Notice they don't put axe flares on wedges they sell? Hang it on a stick though, "Oh noes, it needs to look like an axe now"!! Fail..marketing....

That's why I was disappointed with the x27 when it came out, they flared it to look more like an axe. That flared out design does zilch for splitting. they should have stuck with the original design, like in the pic on my original supersplitter, and just made the handle longer, and maybe around 1/2 lb heavier head.

The husky/wetterlings is closer to ideal in the shape and size, but they EPIC failed on the edge, got close, then they choked. They have it raised in the middle and not even uniform. It's tarded, it makes it not split as well as it could, and then get stuck. It's fixable, grind it flat and uniform tapered on both sides, just I haven't done it yet.

I am thinking...if someone were to start with an 8lb maul..now, no handle attached, cut the flares off of it. Lose some weight. Make it straight from the hammer head to the edge. Now adjust the bevel so it actually cuts, so it is sharp, but slopes out wide so it splits. Nothing abrupt, just an even taper, sharp to fat. Now it is closer to 6 lbs, hopefully a little under, but shaped correctly. (that's why start with an 8lber) Now rehang it on a good 36 to 40 inch handle. 

That would be a good maul.


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## svk

zogger said:


> Ya, it and the Fiskars are much closer to a proper shape for a sharp swung wedge on a stick. These splitters and mauls with the flared out design, like a chopping axe..there's no point to, it's marketing "optics". They don't need to "look" like an axe, they need to function as a splitter and the shape is what it is then, a big splitting wedge. Notice they don't put axe flares on wedges they sell? Hang it on a stick though, "Oh noes, it needs to look like an axe now"!! Fail..marketing....
> 
> That's why I was disappointed with the x27 when it came out, they flared it to look more like an axe. That flared out design does zilch for splitting. they should have stuck with the original design, like in the pic on my original supersplitter, and just made the handle longer, and maybe around 1/2 lb heavier head.
> 
> The husky/wetterlings is closer to ideal in the shape and size, but they EPIC failed on the edge, got close, then they choked. They have it raised in the middle and not even uniform. It's tarded, it makes it not split as well as it could, and then get stuck. It's fixable, grind it flat and uniform tapered on both sides, just I haven't done it yet.
> 
> I am thinking...if someone were to start with an 8lb maul..now, no handle attached, cut the flares off of it. Lose some weight. Make it straight from the hammer head to the edge. Now adjust the bevel so it actually cuts, so it is sharp, but slopes out wide so it splits. Nothing abrupt, just an even taper, sharp to fat. Now it is closer to 6 lbs, hopefully a little under, but shaped correctly. (that's why start with an 8lber) Now rehang it on a good 36 to 40 inch handle.
> 
> That would be a good maul.


Well that can be your next invention, with the Zogger 2000 being such a hit


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## Erik B

spike60 said:


> Good shot Erik; the red axe is a Plumb. Still stamped in the head, but needed a little cleaning to read it.


Do you know what the red stuff is on the opposite side of the handle on the head?


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## zogger

svk said:


> Well that can be your next invention, with the Zogger 2000 being such a hit



If I scrounge up another maul head I might try it. Cutting it off square though, might get some machine shop to do that. I ain't hack sawing all that steel off and don't want to grind it off. Don't know much about temper other than don't **** with what's there...


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## CWME

Dont have pics but I am with Zogger on the original Fiskars supersplitter being better for me than the X25 or X27. Just something about the weight/head shape/short handle that comes together for me with the original. I can bust up stuff with the original that the X27 won't split for me. I feel like I am working harder to get the head to snap on the X27 with the longer handle. The X25 is better for me VS the X27 but it lacks the snap and wth the wider blade gets stuck more for me.


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## CTYank

zogger said:


> Ya, it and the Fiskars are much closer to a proper shape for a sharp swung wedge on a stick. These splitters and mauls with the flared out design, like a chopping axe..there's no point to, it's marketing "optics". They don't need to "look" like an axe, they need to function as a splitter and the shape is what it is then, a big splitting wedge. Notice they don't put axe flares on wedges they sell? Hang it on a stick though, "Oh noes, it needs to look like an axe now"!! Fail..marketing....



I'd like to know what you are calling "flared out". Clues would help.

Maybe it's the difference between N GA and S CT wood, but I find it real difficult to get any of my mauls stuck, either your "epic fail" Wetterlings/Hultafors head shape or the fully flat face of the Mueller or the bulges of the Council. All those varieties work well for me. All have almost exactly the same taper at the edge.

Seems to me, an effective head shape has a couple of things to do well:
1. get the (sharp) edge between fibers on either side.
2. move the fibers apart without excessive frictional losses or exploding them at innocent bystanders. (Can it, Bob.)
3. keep the fibers sufficiently spread so the ends of the split faces can't hit the handle.

It's interesting to see how different paths can lead to the same goal.


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## Ambull01

Quick question. How much of a difference does it make to remove the back shoulder of a maul's blade?


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## zogger

CTYank said:


> I'd like to know what you are calling "flared out". Clues would help.
> 
> Maybe it's the difference between N GA and S CT wood, but I find it real difficult to get any of my mauls stuck, either your "epic fail" Wetterlings/Hultafors head shape or the fully flat face of the Mueller or the bulges of the Council. All those varieties work well for me. All have almost exactly the same taper at the edge.
> 
> Seems to me, an effective head shape has a couple of things to do well:
> 1. get the (sharp) edge between fibers on either side.
> 2. move the fibers apart without excessive frictional losses or exploding them at innocent bystanders. (Can it, Bob.)
> 3. keep the fibers sufficiently spread so the ends of the split faces can't hit the handle.
> 
> It's interesting to see how different paths can lead to the same goal.



The curved part on both ends of the edge on an axe is what I am referring to. Not needed for a splitter and IMO most likely counter productive to more efficient splitting. 

And then on the husky/wetterlings, decent enough wedge shape to start with, but then they come up from the edge and they have a triangle ground out, then a center raised rib going up the blade. I have no idea what that is for, but the center rib is exerting a lot more force in a small area, trying to split the wood with a 1/4 inch wide piece of steel. It's loony.

Real good for you if you don't or rarely get a maul or axe stuck! I do sometimes and don't like it. I also fully admit I just don't have the steam I had years ago, heck, I don't have the same steam as when I joined this site, and quite a bit less since I got sick last summer before the Georgia GTG. I'm sure this has a lot to do with it.


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## svk

Anyone try one of these?


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## svk

And ironically the guy who spends the most time talking about splitting tools on here won't post a picture of his fleet...what gives?


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## mr.finn

What a great thread!!


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## spike60

That Wilton tool looks interesting, and will probably split like most 8# mauls. Looks like they placed a premium on the styling as opposed to engineering with the 2 tone head and all. Doesn't make it function any better, but allows them to charge a higher price, cause if it looks cool, people will pay more. A little bit of that marketing magic that zogger was referring to. I see the $100.79 is crossed out, but what was the actual selling price?


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## svk

spike60 said:


> I see the $100.79 is crossed out, but what was the actual selling price?


92.50-95 bucks depending on seller now. With free shipping.


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## Ironworker

I got this out of a plow and hearth catalog on sale for about thirty bucks and like the way it splits, I like it better than my maul and fiskars x27.


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## svk

Ironworker said:


> View attachment 381135
> 
> I got this out of a plow and hearth catalog on sale for about thirty bucks and like the way it splits, I like it better than my maul and fiskars x27.


Make and model?


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## Ironworker

svk said:


> Make and model?


Don't remember, I only bought it cause it was on sale and didn't think much of it at the time till I started using it.


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## CR888

Kool thread Spike!! lt is nice to get unbiased opinions from those that use mauls and a variety of them. Keep em coming!!


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## dancan

I don't have a group shot of my firewood tools but a few words on this one .






http://www.garant.com/html/en/produits/produit.php?idProduit=1008140&typeProduit=famille

Works ok and gets the job done , I bought it at a close-out sale for 30$ but it sells for close to 70$ up here .
I don't like the springiness that the handle has but being fibreglass it lives fulltime outside .
I think that it was worth the 30$ but more than that I'd be regretting it .
I may take the grinder and a zip wheel to it and give it and another 6lb maul with a wooden handle the Zogger mod just for shytes and giggles .
Wooden handles feel the best to me and the Fiskars handles a close second , not warming up to this one at all except for it being maintenance free till I break it .


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## zogger

dancan said:


> I don't have a group shot of my firewood tools but a few words on this one .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.garant.com/html/en/produits/produit.php?idProduit=1008140&typeProduit=famille
> 
> Works ok and gets the job done , I bought it at a close-out sale for 30$ but it sells for close to 70$ up here .
> I don't like the springiness that the handle has but being fibreglass it lives fulltime outside .
> I think that it was worth the 30$ but more than that I'd be regretting it .
> I may take the grinder and a zip wheel to it and give it and another 6lb maul with a wooden handle the Zogger mod just for shytes and giggles .
> Wooden handles feel the best to me and the Fiskars handles a close second , not warming up to this one at all except for it being maintenance free till I break it .



Hey cool, do a review with the mod. Drove right by the machine shop and plumb forgot to go in and ask if they would cut a maul head down for me today..rats...need to scrounge one up though, need to hit the scrapyard. I have some loose axe heads but no 8lb maul heads.


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## wap13

svk said:


> Anyone try one of these?
> 
> View attachment 380993



I have not tried that maul but I do have a couple 4lb wilton hammers. I would never buy that maul unless I was in to wearing gloves while splitting wood. And even then the texture of the handle would make it hard to slide your hand down the handle when swinging the maul. Not that I use that type of swing every time but I much prefer a smooth handle, and wood over synthetic. I would have to assume the metallurgy is good considering the brand but the handle will keep me from ever owning one.


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## zogger

Haywire said:


> Ox head 6.6lb maul
> Stihl/Ox head splitting axe
> Snow & Nealley Hudson Bay camp axe and my no name wedge beater.
> Only splitting pine,fir, and tamarack here, but no complaints.



Which is your favorite?


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## benp

CTYank said:


> I'd like to know what you are calling "flared out". Clues would help.
> 
> Maybe it's the difference between N GA and S CT wood, but I find it real difficult to get any of my mauls stuck, either your "epic fail" Wetterlings/Hultafors head shape or the fully flat face of the Mueller or the bulges of the Council. All those varieties work well for me. All have almost exactly the same taper at the edge.
> 
> Seems to me, an effective head shape has a couple of things to do well:
> 1. get the (sharp) edge between fibers on either side.
> 2. move the fibers apart without excessive frictional losses or exploding them at innocent bystanders. (Can it, Bob.)
> 3. keep the fibers sufficiently spread so the ends of the split faces can't hit the handle.
> 
> It's interesting to see how different paths can lead to the same goal.



I do believe this is what Zog is talking about by flared out.

I just did a Google search of Fiskars original Super Splitter and this picture is one that came up. It is from here. 

X27 on left and original super split on right.


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## Ambull01

benp said:


> I do believe this is what Zog is talking about by flared out.
> 
> I just did a Google search of Fiskars original Super Splitter and this picture is one that came up. It is from here.
> 
> X27 on left and original super split on right.



So the closest axe is the original right? That's the one I have. Shaped very much like a wedge isn't it? The one in the back looks more like the typical axe head.


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## benp

If yours says X27, then you got the one on the left. 

I was thinking the same thing until I saw that picture.


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## svk

Has anyone tested out the new Husqvarna splitting axe (X25 knock off) yet? Curious as to how it stacks up against the 25.


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## Ambull01

benp said:


> If yours says X27, then you got the one on the left.
> 
> I was thinking the same thing until I saw that picture.



Okay, the orange handle axes are definitely not the original.


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## svk

Ambull01 said:


> Okay, the orange handle axes are definitely not the original.


Clarification. You have the original style X27. The other axe in that photo is the super split. This was the predecessor to the x27

The newer style x27 is all black.


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## Ambull01

svk said:


> Clarification. You have the original style X27. The other axe in that photo is the super split. This was the predecessor to the x27
> 
> The newer style x27 is all black.



Ahhh I see. Wonder how the wedged shape compares to the current X27. Assuming you're only using the Fiskars to split, why would you need a flared edge anyway?


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## zogger

Ambull01 said:


> Ahhh I see. Wonder how the wedged shape compares to the current X27. Assuming you're only using the Fiskars to split, why would you need a flared edge anyway?



Marketing, it has to "look" like an axe.


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## MechanicMatt

I have a wilton sledge hammer at work. "Unbreakable" handle, its held up great over the lastten years. 
As for splittin' tools.......X27 and a big orange monster. Everything else's handles seem to only last a season with me.


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## johnnylabguy

I never paid much attention to my splitting maul. It was a Christmas gift from my Dad a few years back. I mostly used my TSC power splitter was the reason. Late last winter I found how much I enjoyed splitting by hand and now split more with the maul. I finally got around to seeing exactly what it is today instead of just swinging it!


True value 8lb with 36" wood handle. Has a few scars(mostly from driving t posts) but works well i guess. Ive never used anything else though. These threads having me wondering how another would do better. Not sure the x27 would work well because most of my logs are cut 20" long. I think a 6lb maul might be interesting.


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## benp

johnnylabguy said:


> I never paid much attention to my splitting maul. It was a Christmas gift from my Dad a few years back. I mostly used my TSC power splitter was the reason. *Late last winter I found how much I enjoyed splitting by hand and now split more with the maul*. I finally got around to seeing exactly what it is today instead of just swinging it!
> View attachment 381338
> 
> True value 8lb with 36" wood handle. Has a few scars(mostly from driving t posts) but works well i guess. Ive never used anything else though. These threads having me wondering how another would do better. Not sure the x27 would work well because most of my logs are cut 20" long. I think a 6lb maul might be interesting.



Welcome to the Dark Side

I split rounds that are as long as the X27, 20" shouldn't be an issue unless it's something just hateful that nothing by hand will split. I've had some of those too.

Pine






Sugar Maple





And Black Ash, which is cheating. It just blows apart.





ETA - I have one of the Council Tools 6lb mauls coming. I'm looking forward to trying it out.


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## c5rulz

After buying the 28 ton Speeco, these don't get used as much now.

Nobody has mentioned log tongs, they are in the last pic. Super to use, even better in the snow.


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## Philbert

Here's a link to a Fiskars comparison I did a few years back, with photos of the 'old' and 'new' Fiskars splitting mauls, and a 'Monster Maul' I had.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars-28-and-36-side-by-side-comaprison.170817/

Philbert


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## MechanicMatt

My nephew has the red monster maul, I think they are junk compared to the orange ones. They both share the same basic pricipals except the orange ones have a longer handle. I am not a tall guy by any means, but I like a longer handle on my splitting tools. Grew up swingin' a orange beast, still own one. But since getting a fiskars it sees very little use. I did happen to use one of CTYanks wetterlings, I was impressed by it. Got a little more mass than a fiskars and a nice contoured head, made the wood pop for sure. Pretty sure the Husqvarna wooden handled splitters share the same design head. What do they weigh bob, and how much are they?


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## hamish

Well here's my gang.

The 2 1/2lb HB 


Tongs, felling lever, x25, x27 and my favourite HB 2 1/2. Have a 3 1/4HB somewhere on the property, still trying to remember where it is. The Wetterlings Hickory handle was a steal when Husqvarna offered them, dealer cost up here was $15 and change.

Since I got the X25 the HB is mainly used around the house and for kindling duty, the X25 is my primary splitter, the X27 well just a Christmas present last year, have yet to try it out.

A Wallenstein W520 handles the rest, but most of my wood is split by hand where it falls.


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## svk

MechanicMatt said:


> I did happen to use one of CTYanks wetterlings


Speaking of, we're still waiting to see the fleet picture from the "connoisseur of maul"....


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## CTYank

benp said:


> I do believe this is what Zog is talking about by flared out.
> 
> I just did a Google search of Fiskars original Super Splitter and this picture is one that came up. It is from here.
> 
> X27 on left and original super split on right.



Thanks for the info. Couldn't imagine what zogger was describing. 

The question remains: how is that in any way a problem for splitting wood? IMHO that might be a benefit. The edge would enter the wood progressively (hypothetically) rather than all at once. Or, it would if you could bring the head dead-on to the wood. Which you almost certainly can't, so for either shape it'd be random, and the straight-edge would almost certainly enter one-side-first.

Bottom-line to me: it's a red-herring, much ado about nothing. I'd be way more concerned about fiskars metallurgy- difficulty keeping an edge. Were I ever to buy one.  (Fanboy of hickory and quality forge work, here.)


----------



## MechanicMatt

How much does your wetterlings weigh yank?


----------



## Philbert

CTYank said:


> The question remains: how is that in any way a problem for splitting wood?



One design concentrates the impact in a smaller area; the flared design would spread it over a wider area. 

Philbert


----------



## CTYank

MechanicMatt said:


> How much does your wetterlings weigh yank?



It was marketed as 2.5 kg. At ~2.2 lb/kg that's about 5.5 lb. Per visual inspection, it's indistinguishable from Husqy (Hultafors) maul.

From what I saw when you were swinging the various tools, fiskars made cracks in the rounds, but that maul made splits. Did you try my 3 kg Mueller maul, Matt? You'd remember if you did.


----------



## CTYank

Philbert said:


> One design concentrates the impact in a smaller area; the flared design would spread it over a wider area.
> 
> Philbert



Interesting. As I tried to point out above, the opposite would be likely. _If it mattered_ with a large radius of curvature like that. A much smaller radius would more focus the entry work, _reducing _the "spread". Where would you see the crossover-point? Where increasing curvature goes from worser to gooder effect. 

IME edge sharpness and cheek shape near the edge are way more important. As with axes. And quality steel to "hold" an edge.


----------



## Philbert

And now, back to reviewing and commenting on the tools we actually use . . .

Philbert


----------



## MechanicMatt

Yank the fiskars had the wood just about licked, the strings were holding it together. But that wetterlings did a complete job, made for total seperation. And no I only ised your wetterlings, I've used enough of the cheaper stuff over the years, didn't think it was nessasry to swing them anymore. Still can't believe what the leveraxe did to your foot.


----------



## Ambull01

c5rulz said:


> After buying the 28 ton Speeco, these don't get used as much now.
> 
> Nobody has mentioned log tongs, they are in the last pic. Super to use, even better in the snow.



Looks like someone has a thing for sharp things.


----------



## c5rulz

Ambull01 said:


> Looks like someone has a thing for sharp things.


 

Maybe


----------



## svk

CTYank said:


> I'd be way more concerned about fiskars metallurgy- difficulty keeping an edge. Were I ever to buy one.  (Fanboy of hickory and quality forge work, here.)



Those who split large quantities of wood (rather than just discussing it in technical terms on the Internet) know this isn't a problem. Just saying.


----------



## Ambull01

c5rulz said:


> Maybe



Nice. Now that's a dude that takes sharpening seriously.


----------



## mn woodcutter

My two main splitting tools. Collins 13 lb maul sharpened to cut paper and my new (less than a year old) fiskars.


----------



## mdavlee

svk said:


> Has anyone tested out the new Husqvarna splitting axe (X25 knock off) yet? Curious as to how it stacks up against the 25.


I tested mine out today in a couple ash rounds with a few little knots that the x27 wouldn't bust. It did better than I thought it would. I see the fiskars setting a whole lot now. I want to grab a 6lb Council maul to go with this one. It was the 2.8kg version.


----------



## Philbert

Top photo is of some round, Oregon 'wood grenade' type splitting wedges. One is alloy, one is iron. Got them at garage sales for fun, and I keep them for show-and-tell. Not very impressed with them.




The lower photo shows my conventional, forged iron splitting wedges: 3, 4, and 5 pound sizes. I have a total of 6. Like anything else, it is nice to have a choice, depending on the task. I would pick the 4 pound size for _my_ general use if I was buying them new.




The reason they look so pretty is because they have not been used in a while. The cost for these got ridiculous in recent years, so I picked up several at garage/estate sales for $2 - $3 each.

Like any striking tool, the tops need to be dressed when they start to mushroom over. The blue wedges had over 1/2" of material sticking out the sides when I bought them! It was easier to cut these edges off with an angle grinder than to grind them back with a bench grinder.

Afterwards, I cleaned up the tops and bevels with a bench grinder and a ScotchBrite wheel, them painted them so that they don't rust in my garage. They don't stay pretty long in use!

Philbert


----------



## Philbert

Side view




Philbert


----------



## mn woodcutter

Philbert said:


> Side view
> 
> View attachment 381556
> 
> 
> Philbert


Nice job on those wedges. Now to wear that paint off!


----------



## svk

mdavlee said:


> I tested mine out today in a couple ash rounds with a few little knots that the x27 wouldn't bust. It did better than I thought it would. I see the fiskars setting a whole lot now. I want to grab a 6lb Council maul to go with this one. It was the 2.8kg version.


Just to confirm. You have one of these? 




Or one of these?


----------



## mdavlee

This one.


----------



## svk

mdavlee said:


> I tested mine out today in a couple ash rounds with a few little knots that the x27 wouldn't bust. It did better than I thought it would. I see the fiskars setting a whole lot now.


Thanks for sharing. My interest is definitely piqued. 

Being it has a shorter handle and lighter head than the x27, to what do attribute the performance? Head shape?


----------



## mdavlee

svk said:


> Thanks for sharing. My interest is definitely piqued.
> 
> Being it has a shorter handle and lighter head than the x27, to what do attribute the performance? Head shape?


It is a little heavier than the x27. 2.8kg The shorter handle doesn't bother me. I can get most blocks up on something where it's not quite as low.


----------



## svk

mdavlee said:


> It is a little heavier than the x27. 2.8kg The shorter handle doesn't bother me. I can get most blocks up on something where it's not quite as low.


Interesting. Sounds like this one is more similar to the original Fiskars SS. Would like to see them side by side.


----------



## Philbert

Have we ever determined if Husqvarna warranties these like the Fiskars? have not been able to get an answer. Anything on the tags that came with it?

Thanks.

Philbert


----------



## BeatCJ

"Hammer function for an easy and effective use of splitting wedges (no steel wedges)"

I've been wondering about the aluminum wedges, somehow it doesn't seem like they would stand up like my steel wedges.


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> Have we ever determined if Husqvarna warranties these like the Fiskars? have not been able to get an answer. Anything on the tags that came with it?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Philbert


Nowhere can I see any warranty info online. @spike60 did not specify in the thread related to this subject. 

Husqvarna support line is 1-800-487-5951 open 8-8 eastern time M-F. Anybody want to give them a call?


----------



## zogger

svk said:


> Nowhere can I see any warranty info online. @spike60 did not specify in the thread related to this subject.
> 
> Husqvarna support line is 1-800-487-5951 open 8-8 eastern time M-F. Anybody want to give them a call?



I will if spike doesn't chime in by tomorrow


----------



## c5rulz

svk said:


> Those who split large quantities of wood (rather than just discussing it in technical terms on the Internet) know this isn't a problem. Just saying.


 

You Sir have an incredible grasp of the obvious.


----------



## mn woodcutter

mn woodcutter said:


> My two main splitting tools. Collins 13 lb maul sharpened to cut paper and my new (less than a year old) fiskars.


I also use this handy tool with a 48" handle for rolling rounds and unloading the truck.


----------



## Ronaldo

Fiskars X25, Plumb axe, 8 lbs maul and metal handled monster maul type. For 95% of my splitting the Fiskars is the best and easiest to use. As was also mentioned, love my log tongs......a real back saver. Got 8 and 12".


----------



## MechanicMatt

MN Woodcuter, I have the same two wood splitters. I think I'm going to have to try some of this tongs one day. They have piqued my interest! SVK, I really lime Husqvarna tool number 2, the non fiskars looking tool, I'm a skeptic by heart, but CT's deffinatley put a whoopin to the wood.


----------



## cutforfun

I have a few fiskars axes, my favorite is the original super split, the head was heavier, and I liked the shape better, I just picked up a second at a thrift store for 10 bucks 


Original super splitter on left and x27 on the right
backs of the axes are even with each other

I split most of my kindling with this


----------



## zogger

cutforfun said:


> I have a few fiskars axes, my favorite is the original super split, the head was heavier, and I liked the shape better, I just picked up a second at a thrift store for 10 bucks
> 
> Original super splitter on left and x27 on the right backs of the axes are even with each other
> I split most of my kindling with this
> View attachment 381736



Nice fleet! Is that kindling slicer home made?


----------



## cutforfun

zogger said:


> Nice fleet! Is that kindling slicer home made?


Yes it is, it works great with cedar fence board and my brother owns a fence company so cedar fence board scraps are always available


----------



## zogger

svk said:


> Nowhere can I see any warranty info online. @spike60 did not specify in the thread related to this subject.
> 
> Husqvarna support line is 1-800-487-5951 open 8-8 eastern time M-F. Anybody want to give them a call?



OK, this is what they said, ten year warranty must have receipt


----------



## Philbert

zogger said:


> OK, this is what they said, ten year warranty must have receipt



Thanks Zog! Against accidental breakage? That must be what the hollow handle is for - to tape your receipt inside!
Might be cooler if they had serial numbers that you could register when purchased.

Philbert


----------



## svk

zogger said:


> OK, this is what they said, ten year warranty must have receipt


Interesting....10 years is great but that receipt is going to get lost for sure.....

Thanks for calling Zog!


----------



## zogger

I'd like to see the ink on a modern receipt last for ten years. I've saved some and they fade bad after just months.

So, if anyone gets one, plastic bag the receipt, squish the air out.


----------



## svk

zogger said:


> I'd like to see the ink on a modern receipt last for ten years. I've saved some and they fade bad after just months.
> 
> So, if anyone gets one, plastic bag the receipt, squish the air out.


Photo copy it and staple the original to the copy. I keep anything reasonably important in the armoir (sp) in my bedroom.


----------



## c5rulz

I don't know why but I just might buy one of these. These Helko splitting axes are almost to nice to use. There was a forum sponsor selling these for a while. The Vario 2000 is da bomb.

http://www.helkonorthamerica.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=78


----------



## CTYank

Philbert said:


> Top photo is of some round, Oregon 'wood grenade' type splitting wedges. One is iron, one is alloy. Got them at garage sales for fun, and I keep them for show-and-tell. Not very impressed with them.
> 
> View attachment 381547
> 
> 
> The lower photo shows my conventional, forged iron splitting wedges: 3, 4, and 5 pound sizes. I have a total of 6. Like anything else, it is nice to have a choice, depending on the task. I would pick the 4 pound size for _my_ general use if I was buying them new.
> 
> View attachment 381550
> 
> 
> The reason they look so pretty is because they have not been used in a while. The cost for these got ridiculous in recent years, so I picked up several at garage/estate sales for $2 - $3 each.
> 
> Like any striking tool, the tops need to be dressed when they start to mushroom over. The blue wedges had over 1/2" of material sticking out the sides when I bought them! It was easier to cut these edges off with an angle grinder than to grind them back with a bench grinder.
> 
> Afterwards, I cleaned up the tops and bevels with a bench grinder and a ScotchBrite wheel, them painted them so that they don't rust in my garage. They don't stay pretty long in use!
> 
> Philbert



I've heard tell that those "wood grenades" have a tendency to pop their pins (snap the tips), so the one I have is just for show.

As mentioned earlier, the steel wedges that HF is selling now are made of pretty good steel, not very malleable- they do not deform readily on being hit. Don't see much need for grinding off "mushrooming". Their edges needed attention from a 7" disc-grinder to make them useful; they needed lots of thinning and some sharpening up front. Pretty good for $10, though.

I didn't see any need to "flare" their edges. Sharpness is enough.

Also mentioned earlier, some striking tools just stand up much better to giving/taking hits than others. E.g. Mueller 3 kg and Council Tools 6 lb mauls. Their polls are about as tough as a quality sledge.


----------



## CTYank

MechanicMatt said:


> MN Woodcuter, I have the same two wood splitters. I think I'm going to have to try some of this tongs one day. They have piqued my interest! SVK, I really lime Husqvarna tool number 2, the non fiskars looking tool, I'm a skeptic by heart, but CT's deffinatley put a whoopin to the wood.



You'll like some (2) log tongs. They make your arms longer, and keep your hands out of harm's way while you pick up a balanced load, on both sides. Good buys available on NT and Amazon.

The maul you mention is actually Wetterlings' 2.5 kg, of which I happen to have a copy. It was crystal-clear how it was working for you compared to the (lighter) fiskars. If you'd tried the 3 kg Mueller, you'd have seen more one-shot-kills, IMHO. That wood was likely green knotty silver maple, not well suited to the lighter tools.

The 2.5 kg maul that's badged for Husqvarna can be had for much less than Wetterlings'. Ask Bob.

What is a skeptic but someone hard to b.s.?


----------



## MechanicMatt

CT throw up a pic of your favorite spitting devices, and don't get fancy on us a find some 10g dollar wood processor pic.


----------



## dancan

I'm pretty sure that the Husqvarna splitter was made by Wetterlings but is now made by Hultafors which has bought Hults Bruks for the axe forge a few years back .
I might be wrong though .


----------



## El Quachito

Left to right:
1. Manhattan Axe Co, Glassport PA. A nice regular duty vintage axe I use for splitting.
2. A "new" Collins #3. Its really thin but it works good. A handy tool in my opinion. I like it for limbing and easy one-handed splitting.
3. Mexican steel #6 maul. Replaced platic handle with wood. It's the most used tool in the fleet. I filed a blunt bulge out of it and filed a bump out of the poll to try and make it flat. Started life as a POS and was left to die outdoors, but I like it in this configuration.

36" handles on all.


----------



## El Quachito

My main kindling splitter at the moment. Only $12 at a local farm and ranch supply, couldn't pass it up. For the money and the comparatively poor quality of many new tools, I love it.


----------



## CTYank

MechanicMatt said:


> CT throw up a pic of your favorite spitting devices, and don't get fancy on us a find some 10g dollar wood processor pic.



Since you ask, for the first command. (What in heaven's name is the second part about the "10g dollar" poo) ?


In order of head weight, 3 kg Mueller, 6 lb Council, 2.5 kg Wetterlings, 5 lb reworked Bradlees-special.

The Mueller and Wetterlings have had no attention for 3 yrs and 1 yr respectively, but some Danish oil on the handles.

The Bradlees-special has its third handle since new about 40 yrs back. Reshaped to match Mueller, it splits well. Ten + yrs on handle.

They all have their place. The Mueller is my heavy artillery. Otherwise I just grab the closest one. Or a chainsaw.

Some are flared, some not. Absolutely no difference, IMO. It's the edge and the 30 deg face angle.

The name is John.


----------



## Philbert

Philbert said:


> The lower photo shows my conventional, forged iron splitting wedges: 3, 4, and 5 pound sizes.



Just saw a 6 pound version at a local hardware store. Lot of weight to lift for little stuff. Probably has it's place in larger stuff.

Philbert


----------



## MechanicMatt

CT, that one second from the right, thats the one I got my eye on.


----------



## mdavlee

Right now the one on the left is my favorite


----------



## MechanicMatt

Bob, what's the msrp on that one on the left?


----------



## mdavlee

MechanicMatt said:


> Bob, what's the msrp on that one on the left?


I think it lists for $90-100.


----------



## MechanicMatt

What model is it and is the handle as long as the x27?


----------



## CTYank

MechanicMatt said:


> CT, that one second from the right, thats the one I got my eye on.



Yo Matt, John here. Dunno who "CT" is. That's _where_, not _who_.

That 2.5 kg Wetterlings is, to me, indistinguishable from the _maul _branded for Husqy. Last I saw, the Husqy one was selling for half as much in Shokan NY. Best ask Bob for current number.

I'm not selling, nor shilling, for anyone's product, but I'd suggest a side-by-side with ($155, backordered) Mueller 3 kg and ($25) Council Tools 6- pounder, before pulling out plastic. The reason for that suggestion could become clearer, maybe at Jimmy's or later at Steve's. It's all about matching strong-points to usage, and to me they all have their niche. Your mileage will vary.

PS: If you want Bob to get an alert re your question, tag him in your post, as "@spike60". Just lose the quotes.


----------



## svk

CTYank said:


> Yo Matt, John here. Dunno who "CT" is. That's _where_, not _who_.
> 
> That 2.5 kg Wetterlings is, to me, indistinguishable from the _maul _branded for Husqy. Last I saw, the Husqy one was selling for half as much in Shokan NY. Best ask Bob for current number.
> 
> I'm not selling, nor shilling, for anyone's product, but I'd suggest a side-by-side with ($155, backordered) Mueller 3 kg and ($25) Council Tools 6- pounder, before pulling out plastic. The reason for that suggestion could become clearer, maybe at Jimmy's or later at Steve's. It's all about matching strong-points to usage, and to me they all have their niche. Your mileage will vary.
> 
> PS: If you want Bob to get an alert re your question, tag him in your post, as "@spike60". Just lose the quotes.


You'll probably ignore me but I'm going to pose the question anyhow. What makes the Council product superior to the other value to mid-priced 6# mauls? That's an honest question.


----------



## MechanicMatt

CT, I call you that because that's your screenNAME. So to me your name on this site is CTYank, CT for short. John is your real name, so that's probably what id call you when talking to you in person at a GTG. Just my way of thinking, pretty sure you and everybody else knows who Im talking to when I say, "hey CT"..........just like svk knows I mean him when I say svk, don't gotta say Steve, or spike instead of Bob.


----------



## MechanicMatt

Oh and do you think the quality of steel is the same between the wetterlings and the husky?


----------



## CTYank

svk said:


> You'll probably ignore me but I'm going to pose the question anyhow. What makes the Council product superior to the other value to mid-priced 6# mauls? That's an honest question.



As @Gologit says "No whining."

If you're trying to tie me down to proclaiming this tool to be "best of breed" for some spectrum of tools, nice try. That's not what I've said, or going to say. The original "mission statement" of @spike60 was that "each of us comment on the tools that we actually own and use. Pics if possible. Just share our personal opinions about what we like and don't like." I hope you see the huge difference.

At risk of being boringly repetitious: the main interesting attribute (to me) of the Council Tools 6-pounder is the metallurgy- excellent combination of hardness & toughness. IMO way beyond fiskars'. So the edge & the poll are essentially not at all malleable. They're forged by skilled humans from excellent alloy, and given very sophisticated heat-treatment.

Second, their head shape, with a subtle bulge either side, to a bit more than 1" behind the edge, enables them to split fibers efficiently.

This presupposes that, like you'd do with most edge tools, you spend a few minutes finishing up work on the edge. If I break the handle in a few years, a quick, simple and cheap replacement will do nicely.

Discussions can be interesting, maybe save some folks (like me) from reinventing wheels, but folks who insist on reframing/restructuring things are not contributing, but obstructing. Back to Giorgio & "Ancient Aliens".


----------



## svk

CTYank said:


> As @Gologit says "No whining."
> 
> If you're trying to tie me down to proclaiming this tool to be "best of breed" for some spectrum of tools, nice try. That's not what I've said, or going to say. The original "mission statement" of @spike60 was that "each of us comment on the tools that we actually own and use. Pics if possible. Just share our personal opinions about what we like and don't like." I hope you see the huge difference.
> 
> At risk of being boringly repetitious: the main interesting attribute (to me) of the Council Tools 6-pounder is the metallurgy- excellent combination of hardness & toughness. IMO way beyond fiskars'. So the edge & the poll are essentially not at all malleable. They're forged by skilled humans from excellent alloy, and given very sophisticated heat-treatment.
> 
> Second, their head shape, with a subtle bulge either side, to a bit more than 1" behind the edge, enables them to split fibers efficiently.
> 
> This presupposes that, like you'd do with most edge tools, you spend a few minutes finishing up work on the edge. If I break the handle in a few years, a quick, simple and cheap replacement will do nicely.
> 
> Discussions can be interesting, maybe save some folks (like me) from reinventing wheels, but folks who insist on reframing/restructuring things are not contributing, but obstructing. Back to Giorgio & "Ancient Aliens".


As I said earlier it was a serious question and the second half of your post answered that. Thank you. And there's no sarcasm intended in that statement, FYI.


----------



## svk

Anyone test out this $400 beauty?


----------



## MechanicMatt

You can buy it and pass it around ala leveraxe, should start making firewood again come march/april so send it to my house then for um....... testing, yeah testing.


----------



## svk

I'd pony up some coin to give it a try but 400 clams is a new limbing saw or half a hydro splitter. Or 6 bottles of scotch, dinner at a steak house with friends, etc.


----------



## MechanicMatt

Yeah $400 is a LOT


----------



## svk

Actually what we should do is this: 

Everyone send their best splitting tool to @maul ratt and let him do a nice video shoot out.


----------



## mdavlee

Splitting with S2800:


----------



## dancan

I went out and cut a small load of wood today , drug with me a few of my splitters .







No big monsters , just red maple blocked up in 12" to 20" lengths .






I decided to run the GB today .











Works well and feels good in the hands , the metal guard has protected the handle on my missed aim or when it splits but leaves splinters from hitting the far side of the round .
Is if worth the asking price , polly not but I got it as a returned item at 50% so I feel it's worth that and a x25 is about 50$ up here so it wasn't much more


----------



## zogger

dancan said:


> I went out and cut a small load of wood today , drug with me a few of my splitters .
> 
> 
> 
> No big monsters , just red maple blocked up in 12" to 20" lengths .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to run the GB today .
> 
> 
> 
> Works well and feels good in the hands , the metal guard has protected the handle on my missed aim or when it splits but leaves splinters from hitting the far side of the round .
> Is if worth the asking price , polly not but I got it as a returned item at 50% so I feel it's worth that and a x25 is about 50$ up here so it wasn't much more



The shape of that looks quite good and the metal guard is a decent addition. I wish all wood handled axes/mauls came with such a guard. Plain wood tends to disintegrate right there where the most stress is. My husky axe has no guard, and even with light use and me not being too shabby with an axe it is already getting crunched. Basically retired it until I find a guard for it or make something.


----------



## woodchuck357

svk said:


> Anyone test out this $400 beauty?
> 
> View attachment 382928


The price is $176. 450 is the cat number. Still way more than I would pay for ANY splitting tool. I have one, but only paid $15 for it, I would have let the other bidder have it if it had gone for more than $20.


----------



## svk

woodchuck357 said:


> The price is $176. 450 is the cat number. Still way more than I would pay for ANY splitting tool. I have one, but only paid $15 for it, I would have let the other bidder have it if it had gone for more than $20.


Check again, $399.99 I think you are mistaking this for a different too.


----------



## hseII

svk said:


> Clarification. You have the original style X27. The other axe in that photo is the super split. This was the predecessor to the x27
> 
> The newer style x27 is all black.


And doesn't say x-27 on anything... I bought one last week to compare to my council tools axe.
I'll post pics later


----------



## mdavlee

http://www.amazon.com/Splitting-Maul-Collar-Guard-Gransfors/dp/B000WIOE7A


----------



## svk

mdavlee said:


> http://www.amazon.com/Splitting-Maul-Collar-Guard-Gransfors/dp/B000WIOE7A


Interesting


----------



## mdavlee

svk said:


> Interesting


Yeah I was wondering where those were $450. They're $175-200 online


----------



## woodchuck357

svk said:


> Check again, $399.99 I think you are mistaking this for a different too.
> View attachment 383265


http://www.mountainsports.com/msmain.asp?Option=Detail&Detail=149950&Product=Gransfors Bruks Splitting Maul
Highest price I could find was $202. OOPS, that place also wanted nearly $20 for shipping!
The $176 price was total including shipping.


----------



## woodchuck357

The haft is way to short, it is prone to sticking, and is a little light for me. It is one of tools I let the younger neighbor kids use. The other is the X27 I bought after all the hype about it being a wonder tool, that was a waste of $4o.


----------



## UnforsakenGhost

So for those of you that have the husqvarna splitting Axe (fiberglass handle) does come with a special sharpener like the x27 or are you using some other method to sharpen them


----------



## spike60

MechanicMatt said:


> CT, I call you that because that's your screenNAME. So to me your name on this site is CTYank, CT for short. John is your real name, so that's probably what id call you when talking to you in person at a GTG. Just my way of thinking, pretty sure you and everybody else knows who Im talking to when I say, "hey CT"..........just like svk knows I mean him when I say svk, don't gotta say Steve, or spike instead of Bob.



We all have two names here; our username and our real one. Most of us don't even know each other's real names to begin with, so mixing them in can cause a little confusion. Not everyone can make the connection that Spike= Bob, CTYank = John, etc. I've conversed here with guys like zogger for years and I have no idea what his real name is.  When I do know an actual name, I like to use it particularly when speaking/posting directly to that person, but otherwise ya gotta go with the username.


----------



## Philbert

I'm worse at GTGs, where I can't remember _either_ name! I am a big fan of those "_HELLO my name is . . . . . _" stickers!

Philbert


----------



## svk

spike60 said:


> We all have two names here; our username and our real one. Most of us don't even know each other's real names to begin with, so mixing them in can cause a little confusion. Not everyone can make the connection that Spike= Bob, CTYank = John, etc. I've conversed here with guys like zogger for years and I have no idea what his real name is.  When I do know an actual name, I like to use it particularly when speaking/posting directly to that person, but otherwise ya gotta go with the username.


Plus if you are addressing Bob or John or Matt there are dozens of them on here.


----------



## spike60

mdavlee said:


> Yeah I was wondering where those were $450. They're $175-200 online



Guess we all have a limit, and that kind of exceeds mine. I think paying $70 for a quality tool is fine, but $200 or $400 is way beyond what I'd spend. I'd be afraid tio use it, but I've got some shelf queen "collector" saws, so it's no dumber to have a maul like that. Just hang it over the fireplace like an old musket. 

Been real interesting to see some of the options you guys are using and what people like and dislike about them. As I suspected it's a real personal taste thing. Like John says, it makes real sense to swing these tools, (or at least be able to hold them in a store), before spending any money. Especially on the pricier items. Personally, I'm growing fonder of the 2 old axes in my pics. LOL I'm thinking whay the heck did I just ignor them all these years. They work pretty nice on the medium stuff. 

Some reviews I'm getting from the stuff I'm selling: Sold a couple of the new S2800's. Guys that bought them are very happy, but most who pick them up feel that the handle is too short and put it back on the rack. I haven't even tried it myself yet, but want to give it a shot at some point. The Traditional Huskys sell much better and the large maul gets high marks from everyone I've talked to. That entire line actually moves better than I would have expected. I've yet to have to sell a handle to anyone. They even outsell those $30 Total mauls. Two guys were comparing them and one wanted to get the cheap one cause it was only $30, but the other guy said, "yeah, but this is bad a$$"


----------



## mdavlee

spike60 said:


> Guess we all have a limit, and that kind of exceeds mine. I think paying $70 for a quality tool is fine, but $200 or $400 is way beyond what I'd spend. I'd be afraid tio use it, but I've got some shelf queen "collector" saws, so it's no dumber to have a maul like that. Just hang it over the fireplace like an old musket.
> 
> Been real interesting to see some of the options you guys are using and what people like and dislike about them. As I suspected it's a real personal taste thing. Like John says, it makes real sense to swing these tools, (or at least be able to hold them in a store), before spending any money. Especially on the pricier items. Personally, I'm growing fonder of the 2 old axes in my pics. LOL I'm thinking whay the heck did I just ignor them all these years. They work pretty nice on the medium stuff.
> 
> Some reviews I'm getting from the stuff I'm selling: Sold a couple of the new S2800's. Guys that bought them are very happy, but most who pick them up feel that the handle is too short and put it back on the rack. I haven't even tried it myself yet, but want to give it a shot at some point. The Traditional Huskys sell much better and the large maul gets high marks from everyone I've talked to. That entire line actually moves better than I would have expected. I've yet to have to sell a handle to anyone. They even outsell those $30 Total mauls. Two guys were comparing them and one wanted to get the cheap one cause it was only $30, but the other guy said, "yeah, but this is bad a$$"


I like it. It split some twisted ash that the fiskars wouldn't work on. I would like to have the wooden handled husky splitting axe or maul in the 6 lb range to compare with it sometime.


----------



## woodchuck357

mdavlee said:


> Splitting with S2800:



You should try a tire!


----------



## CTYank

MechanicMatt said:


> CT, I call you that because that's your screenNAME. So to me your name on this site is CTYank, CT for short. John is your real name, so that's probably what id call you when talking to you in person at a GTG. Just my way of thinking, pretty sure you and everybody else knows who Im talking to when I say, "hey CT"..........just like svk knows I mean him when I say svk, don't gotta say Steve, or spike instead of Bob.



Matt, I know you're sharper than that. If you'll look at post #106, at the bottom, I thought I explained it to you. And would have saved you this fluff & stuff & dancing. If your msg is of no potential interest to the rest of the forum, take it offline with a PM. K.I.S.S applies.

If, in a post, you want to have a given user see it and/or respond as a result of getting an alert, address that user by username with an "@" prepended. That user will then get an alert indicating that he/she has been "tagged". So, when I'm specifically talking to you, I'd address my question, in the post, to @MechanicMatt. No guesswork, no bs, no wondering if it was received.

There. Now you and @svk have somethoing to "like" for real.


----------



## Rockjock

svk said:


> Interesting....10 years is great but that receipt is going to get lost for sure.....
> 
> Thanks for calling Zog!



The local retailer that I got mine from has a lifetime warranty. bill is scanned and that is good enough for them. 

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/fiskars-36-in-splitting-axe-0575116p.html


----------



## Philbert

CTYank said:


> If, in a post, you want to have a given user see it and/or respond as a result of getting an alert, address that user by username with an "@" prepended.



Sounds like 'twitter' stuff. Never used twitter. I expect to be called by my screen name on this site.

Calling me "[email protected]_" sounds like '_Hey You_!' to me.

Philbert


----------



## mikey517

Well, anyway....

I finally got some time to split using both the X27 & the Council Tool 6# maul. First, the family portrait.



Fisher's X27, Council Tool 6#, and Council Tool Hookaroon (just because!)
The wood was red oak, bucked to 16" long, and 16" diameter.




I started with the Fiskar's and worked from the outside area inward. Being a real novice at hand splitting, I learned from watching MechaincMatt (aka Matt) and others at Spike60's (aka Bob's) GTG. The Fiskar's worked really well penetrating the wood, opening splits but not getting stuck. I was able to generate some nice head speed with minimum effort. I found the Fiskar's easy to control.



The Council Tool maul tended to bounce off the wood on occasion. When It did penetrate, it would stick and needed to be pried free. It required a bit more effort to open a crack, even working inward, but once the splits started, it was fairly easy to finish off the entire round.











I'm not planning to be a full time split by hand kinda guy - heck, I'm getting old - but I am enjoying splitting a couple or three rounds in the early morning as a kick-start to the day. It's a great workout and gets the cardio going. All in all, I favored the Fiskar's for what I do. But the Council Tool will probably come with me in the truck to split up (with a wedge) the bigger rounds we've been cutting lately. It's a well made tool, and I do like the feel of the hickory handle. The head seems to be harder then the Fiskar's, and would probably hold up better to heavy abuse.

I didn't mention my old RockForge Home Depot splitting axe. It gets used every day.... to hold the tarp in place over my uglies box!


----------



## benp

UnforsakenGhost said:


> So for those of you that have the husqvarna splitting Axe (fiberglass handle) does come with a special sharpener like the x27 or are you using some other method to sharpen them


My Fiskars did not come with a sharpener. I just use a raker file. 



mikey517 said:


> Well, anyway....
> 
> I finally got some time to split using both the X27 & the Council Tool 6# maul. First, the family portrait.
> View attachment 383591
> 
> 
> Fisher's X27, Council Tool 6#, and Council Tool Hookaroon (just because!)
> The wood was red oak, bucked to 16" long, and 16" diameter.
> View attachment 383592
> View attachment 383593
> 
> 
> I started with the Fiskar's and worked from the outside area inward. Being a real novice at hand splitting, I learned from watching MechaincMatt (aka Matt) and others at Spike60's (aka Bob's) GTG. The Fiskar's worked really well penetrating the wood, opening splits but not getting stuck. I was able to generate some nice head speed with minimum effort. I found the Fiskar's easy to control.
> View attachment 383594
> 
> 
> The Council Tool maul tended to bounce off the wood on occasion. When It did penetrate, it would stick and needed to be pried free. It required a bit more effort to open a crack, even working inward, but once the splits started, it was fairly easy to finish off the entire round.
> 
> View attachment 383605
> 
> 
> View attachment 383608
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 383610
> 
> 
> I'm not planning to be a full time split by hand kinda guy - heck, I'm getting old - but I am enjoying splitting a couple or three rounds in the early morning as a kick-start to the day. It's a great workout and gets the cardio going. All in all, I favored the Fiskar's for what I do. But the Council Tool will probably come with me in the truck to split up (with a wedge) the bigger rounds we've been cutting lately. It's a well made tool, and I do like the feel of the hickory handle. The head seems to be harder then the Fiskar's, and would probably hold up better to heavy abuse.
> 
> I didn't mention my old RockForge Home Depot splitting axe. It gets used every day.... to hold the tarp in place over my uglies box!



Nice review, thanks!!!!

Your family portrait looks like mine. My Council Tools should be here today so I am looking forward to wringing that out.


----------



## mikey517

^^^^^ I'm interested in your perspective between the Fiskar's & the Council Tool.

ps. I bought the Fiskar's sharpener at TSC.


----------



## CTYank

Another possible point of interest: some folks say that the edge on a splitting tool is irrelevant- "butter-knife" edge is good as axe-sharp. For many years, I had no reference for that. I just pounded on the rounds with the tools I had, like a 5 lb Bradlees-special.

Then I got a 3 kg (6.6 lb) Mueller maul, that arrived with an edge almost sharp enough to shave with, 3 yrs ago. (Still sharp, without sharpening.) That tool just got it done, typically popping red oak splits apart with less than 1" penetration. Obviously, having a 7" disc-grinder, the next step was to reshape the Bradlees-special maul to mimic the shape of the Mueller, as possible. Works great.

I was telling @spike60 about that, and how some of the splits from the original-shape 5-pounder showed some serious blunt trauma at the entry point. That would indicate that I was wasting energy doing work that was useless. Bob was curious as to the facts. I found some splits in a roofed enclosure from 4+ yrs ago that showed that traumatic fiber-crushing, and here are some pix:




No wonder it works so much better now. HTH. (Yeah, that vintage sugar maple is OUTSTANDING!)

Questions for @mikey517 :
1. Have you done anything yet with the raised ridge about 1/8" behind the edge?
2. Do you always "daisy" rounds with a mid-size splitting tool?

I ask the second because I find it easier to split 'em right down the middle in halves, then quarters etc. As necessary, a hit on the far side, then the near side, then the middle. For one thing, this helps protect the handle from overstrikes in such a daisied bundle. It may well work for you to bust the rounds in halves or quarters with the 6-pounder, then slice & dice with the lighter axe.

With large rounds, with hidden knots, often I'll use the 3 kg beast for the first few splits, then finish it off with 6 lb, 5.5 lb or 5 lb. Saves energy, and keeps 'em all exercised.

I'm hoping that Jimmy (member @JRepairsK70e) hosts a GTG this Jan. in Kingston, so we can share some hands-on, and even do some useful work for Jimmy.


----------



## mikey517

John, I have not done any reshaping of the head; I'm not skilled enough at this point to be doing anything more than sharpening. As to always "daisy-ing" the rounds, I used to thrash away at the middle of the rounds with no great success. This was years ago in my old house where I was only getting firewood for a fireplace. I had no technique, and therefore hated all the effort for so little gain.

Then, all this firewood stuff happened, I turned 60, bought the first chainsaw...and all this other stuff happened!! Then, I watched MechanicMatt (aka Matt), and listened to you and others talk about splitting, and found I had more success (and fun) splitting from the outside in. 

Keep me in the loop, please, about a GTG in Kingston. I just hope it isn't the weekend of January 24th as I'm scheduled to be in Pennsylvania that weekend.

Mike


----------



## El Quachito

Inspecting the fibers looks like a good way to check a maul's performance. I always go by feel, but the two would seem to go hand in hand.


----------



## cheeves

spike60 said:


> Not even that. The smaller axes or hatchets are much better for kindling. The Husky and large axes are better when splitting small to medium wood. So the Total is kind of the odd man out in that group cause it's not the best choice for any particular task. OK to have around as a spare, but that's about it.


Best tool I've ever found for splitting wood by hand is a 7# Stanley Maul. Don't make them anymore, but the design is an A shape. Similar to that guy that's on here who would race hydraulic wood splitter's. Forget his name, but he was famous. Designed his own mauls ( was a blacksmith), and his too had an A shape.
Use the Stanley and 2 Snow& Nealy Mauls, one 6# and the other 8#'s. Also use an X27 Fiskar's for medium to small stuff.
Love splitting wood, and split most of my wood by hand. Furnace has bee shut off for years, and heat this house with wood.


----------



## benp

Well, the Council Tools 6lb maul showed up today.

Inital inpressions.......

I like the balance and the weight.

I UNDERSTAND every company spits out a Friday/Monday product. I get that that. No harm, no foul. Things happen. I UNDERSTAND this.

Here is this the maul from the side. What is that buldge in the middle?







Uncle Drunkle running the grinder?






Yeah, it's crooked as hell. Looks like Marty Feldman was on the wheel.

So, off to the shop and disc time.






The hunting and fishing is worked out good enough until it really needs sharpened.






Since things were getting fluffed and buffed might as well give the Fiskars some love.






I'll put the Council Tools through it's paces coming up. Before the grinder work I rooted around in the pile and found something for it to split.

It was a already halfed piece of Black Ash and it stuck in... Hmmmmm. There are some of you who will understand this.

Let's hope things go better after the fluff and buff it received.


----------



## zogger

benp said:


> Well, the Council Tools 6lb maul showed up today.
> 
> Inital inpressions.......
> 
> I like the balance and the weight.
> 
> I UNDERSTAND every company spits out a Friday/Monday product. I get that that. No harm, no foul. Things happen. I UNDERSTAND this.
> 
> Here is this the maul from the side. What is that buldge in the middle?
> 
> 
> 
> Uncle Drunkle running the grinder?
> 
> 
> Yeah, it's crooked as hell. Looks like Marty Feldman was on the wheel.
> 
> So, off to the shop and disc time.
> 
> 
> 
> The hunting and fishing is worked out good enough until it really needs sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> Since things were getting fluffed and buffed might as well give the Fiskars some love.
> 
> 
> I'll put the Council Tools through it's paces coming up. Before the grinder work I rooted around in the pile and found something for it to split.
> 
> It was a already halfed piece of Black Ash and it stuck in... Hmmmmm. There are some of you who will understand this.
> 
> Let's hope things go better after the fluff and buff it received.



That's the 30 dollar model? So basically as shipped without any work on it about the same as any other generic box store 30 buck maul?

How is the head fit to the handle, tight and good? Grain alignment if you can see it?


----------



## benp

zogger said:


> That's the 30 dollar model? So basically as shipped without any work on it about the same as any other generic box store 30 buck maul?
> 
> How is the head fit to the handle, tight and good? Grain alignment if you can see it?



Yes. The one CTYank @John has been talking about. It was 30ish from Bailey's including shipping.

Head fit to handle seems good. It's not wobbly.

grain alignment? What is that?

i'll brb afk for a moment while I run out to the shop to get a picture of the handle and mix a cocktail.


----------



## benp

Alright. I took these two pictures.

I have NO clue if it will help you with what you asked.


----------



## hamish

Rockjock said:


> The local retailer that I got mine from has a lifetime warranty. bill is scanned and that is good enough for them.
> 
> http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/fiskars-36-in-splitting-axe-0575116p.html


 The original question regarding the warranty was in regards to the Husqvarna S-Series axes, not the Fiskars like they have at CTC.


----------



## mikey517

This was mine right out of the box.


----------



## benp

mikey517 said:


> This was mine right out of the box.
> View attachment 383742
> View attachment 383743
> View attachment 383744



Holy sh!tsnacks!!!

At least we know their grind qc is consistent.. 

the metal looks messed up but not bad as mine.....but what in king henry's nutsack is going on in that last picture? 

That whole thing just looks messed up.


----------



## zogger

benp said:


> Alright. I took these two pictures.
> 
> I have NO clue if it will help you with what you asked.



Thanks for the pics. Can't *quite* tell but it looks OK, grain should be inline with the direction of swing and alignment of axe head.


----------



## zogger

If you go to TSC, HD, L, etc and go down their line of mauls, you'll see similar. they'll still bust wood, grind em down a little and throw a better edge on them.

Actually, I amazed you can retail any axe made in the USA for 30 bucks.


----------



## UnforsakenGhost

benp said:


> My Fiskars did not come with a sharpener. I just use a raker file.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice review, thanks!!!!
> 
> Your family portrait looks like mine. My Council Tools should be here today so I am looking forward to wringing that out.


Thanks, I had the assumption that they came with a sharpening kit like the one I had and traded the guy I work with for a set of chaps, was gonna buy another one, then seen the local dealer has the new husky splitting axes all lined up, and though hmm it will match my saws, maybe I'll wait and get one


----------



## Philbert

Maybe they are trying to get in on the whole Leveraxe thing . . . . 

Philbert


----------



## mikey517

Maybe the pics make it look worse, but I didn't think it was that bad out of the box, just wasn't as sharp as the Fiskar's. I took a Dremel to it very lightly for a sharper edge. That's all. 
The Council Tools is MUCH better than the Home Depot splitter I had tried using - better feel, well made and it worked better. I have no complaints with mine, especially for the $27.00 bucks it cost. I just happen to prefer the Fiskar's for my occasional splitting activity. I'm sure with a bit more practice, or in the hands of someone with more experience and better technique, the Council Tool would be a better than average tool. I know I'll be more inclined to take it and use it in the field.

I will say that I'm developing a case of SMAD (Splitting Maul Acquisition Disease) as I'm starting to really "need" the Husqvarna wood handle splitting maul...or maybe the Biber Classic by Mueller. Both are primo...


----------



## benp

mikey517 said:


> Maybe the pics make it look worse, but I didn't think it was that bad out of the box, just wasn't as sharp as the Fiskar's. I took a Dremel to it very lightly for a sharper edge. That's all.
> The Council Tools is MUCH better than the Home Depot splitter I had tried using - better feel, well made and it worked better. I have no complaints with mine, especially for the $27.00 bucks it cost. I just happen to prefer the Fiskar's for my occasional splitting activity. I'm sure with a bit more practice, or in the hands of someone with more experience and better technique, the Council Tool would be a better than average tool. I know I'll be more inclined to take it and use it in the field.
> 
> I will say that I'm developing a case of SMAD (Splitting Maul Acquisition Disease) as I'm starting to really "need" the Husqvarna wood handle splitting maul...or maybe the Biber Classic by Mueller. Both are primo...



Going back and looking at your pictures, you are correct. I must of been looking through the wrong lenses on my glasses. 

It was that last one where the actual head just looked almost bent but the more I study it I see that is not the case. 

I agree with you on your assessment of the maul and I am looking forward to more seat time with it now that the head is touched up. 

I hear you on the SMAD..lol. 

The Grunsford that was posted up and those Fiskars mauls are really nice.


----------



## svk

Those are definitely some UGLY edges. CTYank said his had "excellent smithy work". He must have gotten a Monday build.


----------



## svk

benp said:


> Well, the Council Tools 6lb maul showed up today.
> 
> Inital inpressions.......
> 
> I like the balance and the weight.
> 
> I UNDERSTAND every company spits out a Friday/Monday product. I get that that. No harm, no foul. Things happen. I UNDERSTAND this.
> 
> Here is this the maul from the side. What is that buldge in the middle?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uncle Drunkle running the grinder?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, it's crooked as hell. Looks like Marty Feldman was on the wheel.
> 
> So, off to the shop and disc time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hunting and fishing is worked out good enough until it really needs sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since things were getting fluffed and buffed might as well give the Fiskars some love.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll put the Council Tools through it's paces coming up. Before the grinder work I rooted around in the pile and found something for it to split.
> 
> It was a already halfed piece of Black Ash and it stuck in... Hmmmmm. There are some of you who will understand this.
> 
> Let's hope things go better after the fluff and buff it received.



In picture #3, would it help to buff out the casting marks on the "cheek" to provide for a smoother entry into the wood? Looking at my True Temper 6# its as smooth as butter.


----------



## benp

svk said:


> In picture #3, would it help to buff out the casting marks on the "cheek" to provide for a smoother entry into the wood? Looking at my True Temper 6# its as smooth as butter.



That might not be a bad idea!!!! 

Thanks!


----------



## benp

Svk I took your advice. 

Before. 




After. To quote Jayne Cobb.....shiny. 

It's also smooth and soft to the touch. If that makes sense. 





That picture was after I took it out and tried it. Still hung up in a piece of black ash and I hopefully feel that is my learning curve with this. 

The grain pic for Zog. I "think" this is what he meant. I learned a lot from the how to change a handle thread.


----------



## svk

Cool. Now put some 400 grit to it over an adult beverage tonight.


----------



## benp

svk said:


> Cool. Now put some 400 grit to it over an adult beverage tonight.



I put some 320 to it as it was all there was readily available. 

I draw the line. I'm done with it. Worst comes to worst I have another splitting tool. 

Imo, this is a 1911 vs glock discussion. 

The 1911 guys do not like any polymer pistols and the glock guys can't understand the 7 rounds. 

I have both and I like both a lot.


----------



## MechanicMatt

Nice comparison, well put


----------



## zogger

benp said:


> Svk I took your advice.
> 
> Before.
> 
> After. To quote Jayne Cobb.....shiny.
> 
> It's also smooth and soft to the touch. If that makes sense.
> 
> 
> That picture was after I took it out and tried it. Still hung up in a piece of black ash and I hopefully feel that is my learning curve with this.
> 
> The grain pic for Zog. I "think" this is what he meant. I learned a lot from the how to change a handle thread.



Yes, that is clearer. You can see it is a little sideways from ideal, which would be grain parallel with the head, long ways. Any direction will work, oriented straight just makes a stronger handle.


----------



## UnforsakenGhost

Nice thread, I always assumed that on mauls it didn't matter blunt or not, it was the weight that counts, the more I read the more I learn lol


----------



## MechanicMatt

Mikey517, I too believe yours has a bit of a crooked head, not too bad but a bit off.
CT, man those pics of the maple splits with the evident crushed fibers really drives home the fact that sharp tools work better.


----------



## CTYank

benp said:


> Well, the Council Tools 6lb maul showed up today.
> 
> Inital inpressions.......
> 
> I like the balance and the weight.
> 
> I UNDERSTAND every company spits out a Friday/Monday product. I get that that. No harm, no foul. Things happen. I UNDERSTAND this.
> 
> Here is this the maul from the side. What is that buldge in the middle?



As I mentioned earlier, the "lumps" behind the edge seem to be intentional, as they're consistent. If you put a bevel on the head near the edge, it's clear that they form a kind of "first wave" of steel, apparently to keep the bulk of the actual splitting confined to that area. After some use, the wood marks there seem to confirm that. I sure would NOT dress them down, not on my maul.

Again with a bevel on the edge end of the head, the angle of the head in that area is right about what seems to be the "sweet spot" of the effective mauls I've encountered- 30 degrees. Just another reason I wouldn't jump at futzing with it.

As mentioned, mine got just a few minutes with a sanding drum in a Dremel, to sharpen the edge and blend down the ridge behind the edge. With that, it works fine IMHO. The faces seemed sufficiently smooth, so they got no polishing, whatever. Hard to figure how someone who's never used one would even suggest that. Not inclined to that sort of arrogance.


----------



## Ambull01

CTYank said:


> As I mentioned earlier, the "lumps" behind the edge seem to be intentional, as they're consistent. If you put a bevel on the head near the edge, it's clear that they form a kind of "first wave" of steel, apparently to keep the bulk of the actual splitting confined to that area. After some use, the wood marks there seem to confirm that. I sure would NOT dress them down, not on my maul.
> 
> Again with a bevel on the edge end of the head, the angle of the head in that area is right about what seems to be the "sweet spot" of the effective mauls I've encountered- 30 degrees. Just another reason I wouldn't jump at futzing with it.
> 
> As mentioned, mine got just a few minutes with a sanding drum in a Dremel, to sharpen the edge and blend down the ridge behind the edge. With that, it works fine IMHO. The faces seemed sufficiently smooth, so they got no polishing, whatever. Hard to figure how someone who's never used one would even suggest that. Not inclined to that sort of arrogance.



If getting rid of the ridge behind the edge is so beneficial, why don't companies sell them without the ridge? Seems like an easy fix. R&D should be pretty simple too. Try splitting with the ridge then without.


----------



## CTYank

MechanicMatt said:


> Mikey517, I too believe yours has a bit of a crooked head, not too bad but a bit off.
> CT, man those pics of the maple splits with the evident crushed fibers really drives home the fact that *sharp tools work better*.



C'mon Matt. You've had some trigger-time on chainsaws, and that's news?  (Not denying that it was an "aha" moment to me.)

Again, to paraphrase Bob, instead of addressing comments to "CT" might as well call out to "John". Both are ambiguous and neither will generate an alert. Go for "@" prepended to user-id, and git-r-done.

Talking about a crooked head, a bit off, how 'bout that funky $110 Finnish widget?  People pay extra for getting 'em mule-kicked.


----------



## CTYank

Ambull01 said:


> If getting rid of the ridge behind the edge is so beneficial, why don't companies sell them without the ridge? Seems like an easy fix. R&D should be pretty simple too. Try splitting with the ridge then without.



Easy. In the current USofA, lawyers and accountants rule. Why do you think so many edge tools are shipped as bludgeons? Sharp edges are dangerous- so, you got cut with an axe you put a razor-edge on, your bad- "no mi trabajo, pendejo" or similar.

For a tool that can sell in the twenties, don't expect to have it run through a serious sharpening. I've a Mueller and a Wetterlings maul. Both have received serious professional work around the edge. But then, they cost.

Having some clues from seeing a Mueller & a Wetterlings, what I did was a no-brainer. Took me minutes. I was just delighted that the head is made of some really good tool-steel. That's a rarity, most especially for the price.

You seem to think business decisions are made logically, purely in the best interests of the end-user.  Good luck with that.


----------



## Ambull01

CTYank said:


> Easy. In the current USofA, lawyers and accountants rule. Why do you think so many edge tools are shipped as bludgeons? Sharp edges are dangerous- so, you got cut with an axe you put a razor-edge on, your bad- "no mi trabajo, pendejo" or similar.
> 
> For a tool that can sell in the twenties, don't expect to have it run through a serious sharpening. I've a Mueller and a Wetterlings maul. Both have received serious professional work around the edge. But then, they cost.
> 
> Having some clues from seeing a Mueller & a Wetterlings, what I did was a no-brainer. Took me minutes. I was just delighted that the head is made of some really good tool-steel. That's a rarity, most especially for the price.
> 
> You seem to think business decisions are made logically, purely in the best interests of the end-user.  Good luck with that.



Hmm, well that sort of makes sense I guess. Although, my question was mainly about the ridge. Seems like an easy fix. If they're concerned about idiots injuring themselves then ship it dull with no ridge. Fiskars axe is sharp as hell and it works fairly well. People that split wood with it rave about it (well most of them) and pushed me into buying one. Seems it would make sense financially for the business to make a tool that actually works. Tack on an additional $5 to the maul and ship it with a plastic blade cover like the Fiskars.


----------



## svk

CTYank said:


> Hard to figure how someone who's never used one would even suggest that. Not inclined to that sort of arrogance.


You just can't lay off, can you. 

Please explain how a rough surface could possibly travel through wood easier than a smooth surface?

SMH. We can agree to disagree but this kind of stuff is simply childish. Grow up.


----------



## mdavlee

Hickory


----------



## Ambull01

svk said:


> You just can't lay off, can you.
> 
> Please explain how a rough surface could possibly travel through wood easier than a smooth surface?
> 
> SMH. We can agree to disagree but this kind of stuff is simply childish. Grow up.



Man, ya'll are serious about your splitting tools lol. Perhaps discussing splitting preferences are a bit like talking about religion and politics, can't be done without losing tempers.


----------



## svk

Ambull01 said:


> Man, ya'll are serious about your splitting tools lol. Perhaps discussing splitting preferences are a bit like talking about religion and politics, can't be done without losing tempers.


I keep an open mind, some others feel the need to discriminate against tools because of the shape of the head or the make up of their handle. In this case they are creating a biased opinion of splitting tools while failing to sample a good portion of the available models.

Like I have said before, there are two groups of people in here. One group who makes a lot of firewood and another group who talks about it.


----------



## zogger

Ambull01 said:


> Man, ya'll are serious about your splitting tools lol. Perhaps discussing splitting preferences are a bit like talking about religion and politics, can't be done without losing tempers.



Hey, you gotta keep up with things! You lose temper if you burn the old busted handle out of the head!

read it on the internets...


----------



## Ambull01

zogger said:


> Hey, you gotta keep up with things! You lose temper if you burn the old busted handle out of the head!
> 
> read it on the internets...



I'm trying to keep up lol. When I start reading about metallurgy my head starts to spin. I just want to know what works. K.I.S.S.


----------



## svk

Ambull01 said:


> I'm trying to keep up lol. When I start reading about metallurgy my head starts to spin. I just want to know what works. K.I.S.S.


Well you already have 1/2 of a perfect 2 axe plan IMO. Find a good heavier maul for difficult stuff.

Some would have you believe their choice of product is the only one. We know better than that.


----------



## Ambull01

svk said:


> Well you already have 1/2 of a perfect 2 axe plan IMO. Find a good heavier maul for difficult stuff.
> 
> Some would have you believe their choice of product is the only one. We know better than that.



Roger that. I think I may just go with a sledge or CT/Collins maul. If the Fiskars or maul fails to split the round in 4-5 whacks, I'll noodle it with the saw. Anyway, this thread was awesome. Helped make my mind up. Keep up the good work fellas.


----------



## svk

Ambull01 said:


> Roger that. I think I may just go with a sledge or CT/Collins maul. If the Fiskars or maul fails to split the round in 4-5 whacks, I'll noodle it with the saw. Anyway, this thread was awesome. Helped make my mind up. Keep up the good work fellas.


You are right on there.

A maul does split tough wood better than a Fiskars or any splitting axe. Difference is you can swing a 3.5-4.5 splitting axe (regardless of brand) all day. You can't do that with a maul unless you are the hulk. Different tools for different uses. But some just cant see it that way.


----------



## svk

I know a guy who is retired and works at a very slow pace. In 8 hours in the woods he may work 1.5-2 hours and spend the rest sitting on the tailgate putzing with his tools and shooting the breeze.

If you work 15 minutes then take a 45 minute break it really doesn't matter if you are using a 13 lb "anvil on a stick", a 6 lb maul, or a splitting axe. You aren't working hard enough to get tired. OTOH if you want results, you pick the best tool for the job to maximize output while minimizing energy input.


----------



## Ambull01

svk said:


> You are right on there.
> 
> A maul does split tough wood better than a Fiskars or any splitting axe. Difference is you can swing a 3.5-4.5 splitting axe (regardless of brand) all day. You can't do that with a maul unless you are the hulk. Different tools for different uses. But some just cant see it that way.



I have the perfect round in mind to test a Fiskars and maul on. It's my roadside scrounge location. I smacked that thing all round the edges, middle, etc trying to find the weak point. Never got through. I'm not the Hulk by any means, in fact I'm probably built like the zogmeister according to his self description, but I've learned to use leverage/momentum/etc to my advantage. As a result I have a strong right cross and splitting swing. If the maul splits that round from Hell, I'll have two splitting tools. If it fails, I don't need it and I'll give it to my father in-law. 




svk said:


> I know a guy who is retired and works at a very slow pace. In 8 hours in the woods he may work 1.5-2 hours and spend the rest sitting on the tailgate putzing with his tools and shooting the breeze.
> 
> If you work 15 minutes then take a 45 minute break it really doesn't matter if you are using a 13 lb "anvil on a stick", a 6 lb maul, or a splitting axe. You aren't working hard enough to get tired. OTOH if you want results, you pick the best tool for the job to maximize output while minimizing energy input.



lol. Haven't been on this site for long but I'm guess that old guy is an AS member. You guys should have a fun little boxing match. Nothing more relaxing than punching something and nothing will humble you more than being punched in the face repeatedly. Wish I had more time to box again but for now, taking out my anger on rounds will have to suffice.


----------



## svk

Ambull01 said:


> I have the perfect round in mind to test a Fiskars and maul on. It's my roadside scrounge location. I smacked that thing all round the edges, middle, etc trying to find the weak point. Never got through. I'm not the Hulk by any means, in fact I'm probably built like the zogmeister according to his self description, but I've learned to use leverage/momentum/etc to my advantage. As a result I have a strong right cross and splitting swing. If the maul splits that round from Hell, I'll have two splitting tools. If it fails, I don't need it and I'll give it to my father in-law.



Check out @zogger 's excellent review of the Leveraxe a few pages back in the thread. He tested the LA until it said uncle. Also a Fiskars SS and a maul or two. Nothing would split the elm (can't remember which species, maybe winged). There's some things that just should be noodled. If you need more than one wedge to split a round you should be noodling instead.



Ambull01 said:


> lol. Haven't been on this site for long but I'm guess that old guy is an AS member. You guys should have a fun little boxing match. Nothing more relaxing than punching something and nothing will humble you more than being punched in the face repeatedly. Wish I had more time to box again but for now, taking out my anger on rounds will have to suffice.



Perceptive, you have become.


----------



## Ambull01

svk said:


> Check out @zogger 's excellent review of the Leveraxe a few pages back in the thread. He tested the LA until it said uncle. Also a Fiskars SS and a maul or two. Nothing would split the elm (can't remember which species, maybe winged). There's some things that just should be noodled. If you need more than one wedge to split a round you should be noodling instead.



Just read it. Great review. I should probably go back and read all of the zogmeister's 15k posts. Dude has some really great knowledge that only first hand experience can give. 

I really want to find some elm and compare it to these sweetgum rounds I mistakenly picked up.


----------



## zogger

Ambull01 said:


> Just read it. Great review. I should probably go back and read all of the zogmeister's 15k posts. Dude has some really great knowledge that only first hand experience can give.
> 
> I really want to find some elm and compare it to these sweetgum rounds I mistakenly picked up.



Just let the sweetgum and elm sit until the bark is loose and falls off, and it is deeply cracked, you can bust them then, one way or the other. If you are cutting them, large diameter, instead of cutting to your normal full length, you can cut fat cookies (like 4-6 inch thick) and speed the process up some, then bust pie slices to stack. They also make good all nighters if you can squeeze them in whole into your heater. No need for small splits with that wood if you are scoring other easier to split species. 

That's most likely what I will do with all this elm I have, mix it in the stacks as big all nighters. Anything that will fit, only bust enough to make the chunks fit.


----------



## spike60

CTYank said:


> Another possible point of interest: some folks say that the edge on a splitting tool is irrelevant- "butter-knife" edge is good as axe-sharp. For many years, I had no reference for that. I just pounded on the rounds with the tools I had, like a 5 lb Bradlees-special.
> 
> Then I got a 3 kg (6.6 lb) Mueller maul, that arrived with an edge almost sharp enough to shave with, 3 yrs ago. (Still sharp, without sharpening.) That tool just got it done, typically popping red oak splits apart with less than 1" penetration. Obviously, having a 7" disc-grinder, the next step was to reshape the Bradlees-special maul to mimic the shape of the Mueller, as possible. Works great.
> 
> Questions for @mikey517 :
> 1. Have you done anything yet with the raised ridge about 1/8" behind the edge?
> 2. Do you always "daisy" rounds with a mid-size splitting tool?
> 
> I ask the second because I find it easier to split 'em right down the middle in halves, then quarters etc. As necessary, a hit on the far side, then the near side, then the middle. For one thing, this helps protect the handle from overstrikes in such a daisied bundle. It may well work for you to bust the rounds in halves or quarters with the 6-pounder, then slice & dice with the lighter axe.



Good post John. (Pardon my partial quote due to length)

That conversation we had opened my eyes, as I thought that the factory edge on most of this stuff was good enough. "Hey, it's only a maul." Like you, I was wasting energy swinging dull tools. It sure doesn't take a lot of work to touch up those edges, and the nice edge I put on my Collins 6lb maul does make a noticeable difference. I think it's common thinking that a maul really doesn't need to be sharp, but that's just not the case. I just touched up a cheapo maul for a buddy that had an edge that could be described as "factory indifference + years of abuse". He thought the idea was a waste of time until he tried it after I sharpened it. Then he brought over two more of them. 

That lesson, plus using my old axes for the lighter stuff are the kind of useful things that we can pick up from these discussions. 

@mikey517 and I did some splitting with the 22 ton Ariens at the GTG here back in OCT. And I noticed him positioning the blocks to be split much like he did with the hand splitting. Just a slightly different way to attack the block to be split, whether by hand or hydraulic. I usually take the same route that John does. Half, quarter, and on down. Does one method lend itself better to some tools than others I wonder?


----------



## Ambull01

zogger said:


> Just let the sweetgum and elm sit until the bark is loose and falls off, and it is deeply cracked, you can bust them then, one way or the other. If you are cutting them, large diameter, instead of cutting to your normal full length, you can cut fat cookies (like 4-6 inch thick) and speed the process up some, then bust pie slices to stack. They also make good all nighters if you can squeeze them in whole into your heater. No need for small splits with that wood if you are scoring other easier to split species.
> 
> That's most likely what I will do with all this elm I have, mix it in the stacks as big all nighters. Anything that will fit, only bust enough to make the chunks fit.



Roger that. Although, I want to compare a X27 and a CT now while the sweetgum and hopefully elm are green/hard to split. This way if both tools fail I'll keep the lighter/more durable one, get rid of the other or relegate it to a "close at hand" tool, and never have to worry about a splitting apparatus again (lifetime warranty on Fiskars). 

Fat cookies (just made me crave some Oreos) sound like a great idea. All of the roadside scrounge are back in play once again.


----------



## svk

Ambull01 said:


> Roger that. Although, I want to compare a X27 and a CT now while the sweetgum and hopefully elm are green/hard to split. This way if both tools fail I'll keep the lighter/more durable one, get rid of the other or relegate it to a "close at hand" tool, and never have to worry about a splitting apparatus again (lifetime warranty on Fiskars).


I can already tell you a 6# maul of any mfg will disappoint when trying to split green elm.... Save your $


----------



## zogger

Ambull01 said:


> Roger that. Although, I want to compare a X27 and a CT now while the sweetgum and hopefully elm are green/hard to split. This way if both tools fail I'll keep the lighter/more durable one, get rid of the other or relegate it to a "close at hand" tool, and never have to worry about a splitting apparatus again (lifetime warranty on Fiskars).
> 
> Fat cookies (just made me crave some Oreos) sound like a great idea. All of the roadside scrounge are back in play once again.



I'd keep both, and use the CT for when you are felling as well, to smack wedges. You aren't supposed to hammer nuthin with the back of the fiskars.

I use all my axes. I like my cheap utility axe for stripping bark and cutting vines. I try to ID trees a year in advance that I will take and make sure they are clean of poison ivy vines for instance, cut a section out at the bottom, let em dry for a year, then they pull out of the tree easy. I did that last year on my mother load I am working on this winter, went through and marked and vine killed a buncha big trees.


----------



## Ambull01

svk said:


> I can already tell you a 6# maul of any mfg will disappoint when trying to split green elm.... Save your $



lol. Man I really need to get my hands on some elm. Would help if I could ID a tree to save my life though. Couldn't pick out an elm round from a pine. 



zogger said:


> I'd keep both, and use the CT for when you are felling as well, to smack wedges. You aren't supposed to hammer nuthin with the back of the fiskars.
> 
> I use all my axes. I like my cheap utility axe for stripping bark and cutting vines. I try to ID trees a year in advance that I will take and make sure they are clean of poison ivy vines for instance, cut a section out at the bottom, let em dry for a year, then they pull out of the tree easy. I did that last year on my mother load I am working on this winter, went through and marked and vine killed a buncha big trees.



Not sure how often I'll fell. I may stick to being a scavenging scrounger, only take downed stuff. I have really short handled sledge looking thing that the previous owner of my house left behind. Old as dirt but I kind of like it so I may use that to drive wedges although it will severely cut down on the amount of force I can generate. 

I don't think I'm allergic to poison ivy. Did some ambush/small unit tactic training up in PA a year or so ago and the whole squad picked a poison ivy patch to lie in. Next day the whole unit looked like lepers except for myself. Poor knuckleheads. 

Anyway, I've diverted this thread enough from its original intent.


----------



## svk

Ambull01 said:


> lol. Man I really need to get my hands on some elm. Would help if I could ID a tree to save my life though. Couldn't pick out an elm round from a pine.


Someone mentioned the analogy that an American elm looks like a martini glass. If you see a tree in a windrow or ditch that is shaped like a martini glass (single stem that flows into a triangular looking crown) you've probably found an elm. If bark is falling off in sheets, its almost definitely an elm. Post a pic up here and someone will confirm it. Pain to split but it burns awesome. As whitespider will mention it is probably underrated in BTU charts.


----------



## UnforsakenGhost

Most of what i burn is a mix of elm and walnut, did a basement for a couple and a bunch of trees had to come out, makes a nice mix, elm overnight walnut during the day, I tried to split elm once, and that was the last time I tried to split it, lost both wedges and got my maul stuck lol


----------



## Ambull01

svk said:


> Someone mentioned the analogy that an American elm looks like a martini glass. If you see a tree in a windrow or ditch that is shaped like a martini glass (single stem that flows into a triangular looking crown) you've probably found an elm. If bark is falling off in sheets, its almost definitely an elm. Post a pic up here and someone will confirm it. Pain to split but it burns awesome. As whitespider will mention it is probably underrated in BTU charts.



What the hell is a windrow?


----------



## svk

Ambull01 said:


> What the hell is a windrow?


The trees in a line at the edge of a field planted to slow down the wind. After a few generations it becomes a thin strip of forest of whatever trees are in that are.


----------



## zogger

Ambull01 said:


> lol. Man I really need to get my hands on some elm. Would help if I could ID a tree to save my life though. Couldn't pick out an elm round from a pine.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure how often I'll fell. I may stick to being a scavenging scrounger, only take downed stuff. I have really short handled sledge looking thing that the previous owner of my house left behind. Old as dirt but I kind of like it so I may use that to drive wedges although it will severely cut down on the amount of force I can generate.
> 
> I don't think I'm allergic to poison ivy. Did some ambush/small unit tactic training up in PA a year or so ago and the whole squad picked a poison ivy patch to lie in. Next day the whole unit looked like lepers except for myself. Poor knuckleheads.
> 
> Anyway, I've diverted this thread enough from its original intent.



Still a good idea to get the vines off. Someone downwind could get sick as a moose from breathing smoky air with the sap in it. Or in your house, a puff of smoke comes into the room, etc. Doesn't take much to strip the vines.


----------



## UnforsakenGhost

svk said:


> The trees in a line at the edge of a field planted to slow down the wind. After a few generations it becomes a thin strip of forest of whatever trees are in that are.


A lot of them in the windy states like ks lol


----------



## Ambull01

Nice, learning about chainsaws/splitting tools and broadening my vocabulary repertoire. 

Well now I need to learn how to identify trees and poison ivy. Great


----------



## UnforsakenGhost

Ambull01 said:


> Nice, learning about chainsaws/splitting tools and broadening my vocabulary repertoire.
> 
> Well now I need to learn how to identify trees and poison ivy. Great


Don't feel bad I've been cutting or helping cut since I was about 5 and I'm 25 and still learning stuff lol


----------



## benp

svk said:


> The trees in a line at the edge of a field planted to slow down the wind. After a few generations it becomes a thin strip of forest of whatever trees are in that are.



Also shelter belt.


----------



## zogger

Ambull01 said:


> Nice, learning about chainsaws/splitting tools and broadening my vocabulary repertoire.
> 
> Well now I need to learn how to identify trees and poison ivy. Great



Not to mention not stumbling into a nest of eastern squareback one-steps whist out scrounging in the weeds and trees....


----------



## hamish

I have given up swinging mauls and battling bigger wood, even the days of wrestling a biggun's onto the splitter, unless I bring the excavator along. Even when using the splitter and I actually have grown to dislike the design of my W520. Splitting between the hitch and the motor seems nice at first, till you need to move the splitter. More companies should have a wood table by the wedge end to save a lot of messing around.

Behind the ATV I have 2 trailers that I use near daily. One is a tub style trailer, the second is a miniature/cordwood forwarding trailer. The cordwood trailer is my go to trailer now, cut in the bust to 4' load then process at the yard, a lot less bending and handling. For this winter I even bought the yellow slug a new tag along.

My winter splitter is one of the axes in my herd, still trying to find my other HB, me thinks by now it might be under water and about to be frozen over again.

On a side note to Bob,

You guys getting the 27T Husky splitter down there?


----------



## Philbert

hamish said:


> . . . , the second is a miniature/cordwood forwarding trailer.
> . . .


Pics?

Thanks. 

Philbert


----------



## dancan

mdavlee said:


> Hickory
> View attachment 384027



Birch and Maple .


----------



## dancan

Spruce


----------



## spike60

@hamish, I got no interest in the Husky splitter. As you may know it is built by Ariens, and I'm an Ariens dealer. Both the 22 amd 27 ton Ariens are a much better deal than the Husky unit. What they've given Husky is a joke really. They have taken the 22 ton frame, (without the nice jackstand which has been replaced with a troy bilt style stand), and made it a 27 ton. For $1799. Crazy marketing. Got to think it will be a flop. 

I've done great with the Ariens splitters. Mostly 22's, but I can finance the 27's with Sheffield @ 0% for 36 months so that has been an option for a customer who doesn't have the cash to lay out. People around here like the Subaru engiones that Ariens uses also.


----------



## johnnylabguy

Doggone you gentlemen, I couldn't take it any longer. I was just fine and dandy with my dull no name 8 lb maul until reading this thread for the past week. I've just finished placing my order for the 6 lb council tool model and will report back on its performance. 

I've almost made it a full year without buying a saw, and now I fear CAD can spread to other firewood tools as well! 

Good thread and good info. There may be some hair-splitting (pardon the pun) with some of the info but it's all interesting and maybe make the stacks grow a little easier too. Thanks!


----------



## hamish

spike60 said:


> @hamish, I got no interest in the Husky splitter. As you may know it is built by Ariens, and I'm an Ariens dealer. Both the 22 amd 27 ton Ariens are a much better deal than the Husky unit. What they've given Husky is a joke really. They have taken the 22 ton frame, (without the nice jackstand which has been replaced with a troy bilt style stand), and made it a 27 ton. For $1799. Crazy marketing. Got to think it will be a flop.
> 
> I've done great with the Ariens splitters. Mostly 22's, but I can finance the 27's with Sheffield @ 0% for 36 months so that has been an option for a customer who doesn't have the cash to lay out. People around here like the Subaru engiones that Ariens uses also.



Pretty much what I thought, I was afraid to put a box of beer on it in fear that it might fallover! When released it was $2499 up here, now its only $2199, and cheaped up over the Ariens as you have mentioned. I can buy a Ariens at my local Sthil dealer for almost my cost on the Husky one.

Oh why can't I be an Ariens dealer!


----------



## mikey517

Where have I been?? Did I miss something?? Ariens makes the Huskee sold at Tractor Supply??


----------



## MechanicMatt

Can somebody else please read post 141 specifically the question #1 to mikey517, then read post 168 first paragraph.........
When you buy one of those dull cheapo mauls are you supposed to grind there flaws off or leave them, because the "lumps" seem to be intentional?


----------



## CTYank

MechanicMatt said:


> Can somebody else please read post 141 specifically the question #1 to mikey517, then read post 168 first paragraph.........
> When you buy one of those dull cheapo mauls are you supposed to grind there flaws off or leave them, because the "lumps" seem to be intentional?



Now, now. Matt, do you know what I meant in #168 by a "bevel"? It's a measuring tool that you use to measure an angle, in this case I was talking about the angle of the head. When you do that with the Council 6-pounder over the bulges near the edge, you see clearly how up to the bulges the angle of the head is ~30 deg., as on Mueller and Wetterlings mauls. That does not continue behind the bulges; the head is well away from the bevel in that area.

What do you mean by "supposed to"? Does not compute here. My tack was to remove the minimum, period, with maybe five minutes invested with Dremel & sanding drum. Nothing like what Steve induced @benp to do. Because of seeing that most of the splitting work is done in the first 3/4" to 1" of entry into the wood, that region was my focus. As noted earlier, on later using the maul, it was clear to me from seeing marks from the wood on the bulges, those bulges were effective in spreading the splits. Then seeing the same on other mauls, as I said, ... What's the hard part here?

What anyone else wants to do with whatever, that's no mi trabajo. My intent was to remove the minimum metal with my maul to get the job done. It's real hard to put it back on, never mind restore the effect of the heat-treatment, one thing that differentiates it big-time from some Finnish tools.

IMO, there's a huge difference between "cheapo" and low-priced, using both regularly. This repetitious stuff is getting boring.  Or, maybe package up inquiries for a future GTG, where we won't have to be distracted with bizarre tools. There'll be an assortment of tools to try and hopefully @spike60 could bring a demo of the new Husqy tool.

@mikey517 just look for threads on upcoming NY-area GTGs. You may have to contact the host beforehand- no biggie; sometimes there are space limitations. There's no private distribution on this info. Hopefully this answers your earlier question.


----------



## CTYank

spike60 said:


> Good post John. (Pardon my partial quote due to length)
> 
> That conversation we had opened my eyes, as I thought that the factory edge on most of this stuff was good enough. "Hey, it's only a maul." Like you, I was wasting energy swinging dull tools. It sure doesn't take a lot of work to touch up those edges, and the nice edge I put on my Collins 6lb maul does make a noticeable difference. I think it's common thinking that a maul really doesn't need to be sharp, but that's just not the case. I just touched up a cheapo maul for a buddy that had an edge that could be described as "factory indifference + years of abuse". He thought the idea was a waste of time until he tried it after I sharpened it. Then he brought over two more of them.
> 
> That lesson, plus using my old axes for the lighter stuff are the kind of useful things that we can pick up from these discussions.
> 
> @mikey517 and I did some splitting with the 22 ton Ariens at the GTG here back in OCT. And I noticed him positioning the blocks to be split much like he did with the hand splitting. Just a slightly different way to attack the block to be split, whether by hand or hydraulic. I usually take the same route that John does. Half, quarter, and on down. Does one method lend itself better to some tools than others I wonder?



Bob, not trying to get cute or picky, but now you see why you raised my pucker-factor big-time a couple years ago at Jimmy's when you tried my Mueller maul on rounds sitting on the dirt. At that point in time, my assumption was that the Austrian smiths wouldn't have honed such a nice edge just for show, and that stones in frozen dirt wouldn't have helped at all. For me, taking a few seconds to put a round up on a block doesn't waste time, in the long run. Now we have "proof" of why a sharp edge is desirable.

Another possibly interesting point re Mueller 3 kg maul, it arrived with only the first inch or so back from the edge polished. Seems they saw no value to going further. With use over 3 years, that polished region has extended back further, like some graying at the temples.


----------



## svk

CTYank said:


> Nothing like what Steve induced @benp to do.


Why are you so upset about this? Are you jealous that @benp has the best looking CT maul on AS now? You say you don't care what others do but you've already shamed two different CT owners. Interesting that you are apparently now the self appointed CT police and obviously an expert being you've probably split three rounds with yours. Not only that, if you look back to my post you will see that I posed a question about the smoothness, nothing more.


----------



## spike60

mikey517 said:


> Where have I been?? Did I miss something?? Ariens makes the Huskee sold at Tractor Supply??



No Mike. Huskee, with the 2 E's is a TSC house brand. Their splitters are made by Speeco, and their tractors and snow blowers are made by MTD. 

Husky with a Y is Husqvarna. Ariens makes their splitter and some of the turf renovation units. Husqvarna in turn makes the Ariens tractors and some push mowers. 

@hamish, I'm very happy they laid an egg with this new splitter, cause there are too many husky dealers in the area, and I'm the only Ariens dealer. That's another reason that I only sell the Ariens snow product. That plus our tech says if we ever sell any more Husky snowblowers he's gonna quit.! It's really not a good blower at all, and the supposed redesign is nothing more than some cosmetic updates. Things that fail, like the chute rotator, or the drive gears, can only be purchased in expensive kits. Belt life is short. Who the heck came up with the cast iron impeller idea on the 300 series? LOL No offense to our Southern members, but snowblowers shouldn't be designed in South Carolina.


----------



## spike60

CTYank said:


> There'll be an assortment of tools to try and hopefull @spike60 could bring a demo of the new Husqy tool.
> 
> @mikey517 just look for threads on upcoming NY-area GTGs. You may have to contact the host beforehand- no biggie; sometimes there are space limitations. There's no private distribution on this info. Hopefully this answers you earlier question.



Guys, I spoke to Jimmy yesterday and the GTG is on providing he gets a load of logs brought in. I also know the logger involved and told him it's not just firewood, it's a party. I think we'll be OK. 

John, I will bring one of the new Husky S2800's to the GTG. I still haven't tried one yet myself. And all splitting will done on raised blocks.  But understand that I was operating from the previous mindset that mauls aren't, and don't need to be sharp when I drove your's into the ground that day. 

And you and Steve need to stop bickering or you're both getting sent to the principal's office. LOL


----------



## 86indy

Hey guys first post here, I love splitting wood by hand and thought the friskars was pretty attractive, but was just looking for a splitting axe with a replaceable handle and after many hours of searching found this:
http://www.knifecenter.com/item/CN4...l-head-american-hickory-handle-leather-sheath
I liked it because it seems to have a similar style head to friskars but with a wood handle. It will be used to split everything I encounter. I currently own a craftsman splitting maul that was given to me, so I think almost anything will be an improvement.
Any thoughts?


----------



## svk

86indy said:


> Hey guys first post here, I love splitting wood by hand and thought the friskars was pretty attractive, but was just looking for a splitting axe with a replaceable handle and after many hours of searching found this:
> http://www.knifecenter.com/item/CN4...l-head-american-hickory-handle-leather-sheath
> I liked it because it seems to have a similar style head to friskars but with a wood handle. It will be used to split everything I encounter. I currently own a craftsman splitting maul that was given to me, so I think almost anything will be an improvement.
> Any thoughts?


Welcome to the site!

Not a lot of data on this tool but the one review recommends it for difficult wood. Not sure what the user's idea of "difficult" is so take it with a grain of salt. At that price it wouldn't hurt to give it a try and let us know. As you spend time in here you will notice that certain tools may get a cult following LOL. Perhaps this could be the next one....


----------



## zogger

Might be OK, who knows until you try one!

Put an edge on the craftsman you have, that should work good too.


----------



## spike60

Yeah, welcome to the site @86indy. 

That head seems more similar to the head on my Total maul, but with a wood handle. It's OK, and it will work. But that style head falls short of my others. That's just my opinion, and that's all this thread is, our opinions. Plus we've got everything under the microscope here looking for details that most people would never notice or pay attention to. That being said, you do notice differences between these tools when comparing them, and naturally there will be some likes and dislikes.

And, I'd bet that your Craftsman maul would benefit from working up a sharp edge like we've been discussing here. Only takes a few minutes and makes a world of difference.


----------



## Philbert

86indy said:


> Hey guys first post here, I love splitting wood by hand and thought the friskars was pretty attractive, but was just looking for a splitting axe with a replaceable handle . . .



Welcome to AS!

Key difference with the Fiskars is that almost all of the weight is focused in the head - hence the hollow, composite handle. Less overall weight. Less fatiguing. It's replaceable: free with a phone call or e-mail. 

Can't say that the heads are that similar. The one you show has more flare. Could only really compare them by splitting side-by-side. 

Philbert


----------



## 86indy

Thanks for the welcome guys! 
Im 19 and enjoy splitting wood in the summer a few days a week (that's an odd thing in todays times isnt it? haha) so I'm not entirely concerned about it being fatiguing I dont mind the exercise, I just want a nice tool that has the potential to be passed on eventually. I have noticed the cult around certain brands, one of those would be Wetterlings...But I dont have $150+++ for a splitting tool, thats almost my budget for a new to me saw  . I should try and sharpen and polish the Craftsman I have..can anyone direct me to a How To? I dont wanna mess up the tool, that would be a shame.
Im just hate relying on friskars for the replacement....
Ive also found myself to prefer a little longer handles for splitting (Im 6' tall)

@spike60 what is your preference out of the ones your own? 



Thanks guys!


----------



## woodchuck357

86indy said:


> Hey guys first post here, I love splitting wood by hand and thought the friskars was pretty attractive, but was just looking for a splitting axe with a replaceable handle and after many hours of searching found this:
> http://www.knifecenter.com/item/CN4...l-head-american-hickory-handle-leather-sheath
> I liked it because it seems to have a similar style head to friskars but with a wood handle. It will be used to split everything I encounter. I currently own a craftsman splitting maul that was given to me, so I think almost anything will be an improvement.
> Any thoughts?


The shape of that head will make it likely to stick in a round without splitting, if you buy it plan on learning the flip and only splitting woods that pop apart fairly easily. I'm not a fan of the fiskers but it will split better than the condor will. The x27 has a 36 inch length so it is longer than the condor.


----------



## woodchuck357

The helko 2000 heavy splitting ax looks werid but you can easily make a longer haft for the 5 pound head. Ofcourse you could make your own head also, using their design.
http://www.helkonorthamerica.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=78&products_id=193


----------



## 86indy

I am starting to think otherwisw of the condor...I just saw that husqvarna makes a splitting axe and splitting maul and they look pretty interesting. I favor the husky maul so far with price and design as of now..

Edit: That looks even nicer, but prices are increasing quickly hah


----------



## spike60

86indy said:


> Thanks for the welcome guys!
> I should try and sharpen and polish the Craftsman I have..can anyone direct me to a How To? I dont wanna mess up the tool, that would be a shame.
> 
> @spike60 what is your preference out of the ones your own?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks guys!



My two favorites are the Husky splitting axe and the Collins 6lb maul. Collins gets the big stuff, the Husky works nice on medium and down. I also like the plain old large axes I have. The Total is OK as a spare, but just isn't a first choice in any application.

I have yet to sharpen my buddy's other two mauls, so if I get to it this weekend, I'll take some pics. 4 basic steps, but only 3 are needed.

1--grinding wheel to shape it
2--flat file to create the edge
3--hockey skate stone to really bring it to a fine edge.
4--strop it with a piece of leather. Now this step in all seriousness is going overboard to the point of being silly, but I did it anyway.


----------



## El Quachito

dancan, what's the make of that double bit? It looks nice.






dancan said:


> Birch and Maple .


----------



## dancan

dancan said:


> Birch and Maple .



I guess I should have done a bit of a review on that NOS HultsBruks , at 3 1/2 lbs and being very thin bit it's more of a felling axe but when you have some dry fairly straight grained wood I find that this excels at splitting kindling , it's hard to explain why but I find that db's balance out perfectly when you have it held just under the head and the splits pop apart effortlessly .
Here's a vid showing and explaining .



That's not me if you're wondering LOL


----------



## mn woodcutter

dancan said:


> I guess I should have done a bit of a review on that NOS HultsBruks , at 3 1/2 lbs and being very thin bit it's more of a felling axe but when you have some dry fairly straight grained wood I find that this excels at splitting kindling , it's hard to explain why but I find that db's balance out perfectly when you have it held just under the head and the splits pop apart effortlessly .
> Here's a vid showing and explaining .
> 
> 
> 
> That's not me if you're wondering LOL



I think I would risk loosing a finger doing that!


----------



## zogger

dancan said:


> I guess I should have done a bit of a review on that NOS HultsBruks , at 3 1/2 lbs and being very thin bit it's more of a felling axe but when you have some dry fairly straight grained wood I find that this excels at splitting kindling , it's hard to explain why but I find that db's balance out perfectly when you have it held just under the head and the splits pop apart effortlessly .
> Here's a vid showing and explaining .
> 
> 
> 
> That's not me if you're wondering LOL




That looks like fun, in the "hey bishop, do the trick" way...hahahah!

Hmm, I do the tire on a stump deal and load it with straight grained pine and just keep hitting smaller and smaller with the fiskars. Not all come out perfect ready to go into kindling bags, but enough of them. The remainder slivers and chunks, anything that isn't full length and uniform, I throw in a bucket and use for myself.


----------



## svk

spike60 said:


> And you and Steve need to stop bickering or you're both getting sent to the principal's office. LOL



For the record I sent "CTyank" a PM asking for a cease fire and he didn't even bother responding. Classy.


----------



## spike60

dancan said:


> Birch and Maple .



Well Dan, looks like I'll need to add a double bit axe to the arsenal.  I've always used a hatchet or my small Collins axe for kindling, and will likely continue to. My kindling all comes from tractor crates and slab wood from a buddy's band saw mill, so a hatchet is just the ticket. I have 4 hatchets, and I suppose there's a pic coming of those so we can expand the discussion here as we all go off the deep edge with these hand tools.  But I think we're having fun so who care's, right?


----------



## dancan

I've got plenty of hatchets and split lots with them Bob but that was my first run with a db , I made sure I did a bunch so I it wasn't like a stick or two , not shown are the 2 banana boxes of splits that I gave away .
I'm pretty sure that a shorter db would be even better , it's hard to explain but the weight and the balance point just keep everything in line and it's just a downward motion with your hand , not a swing .
If you have to swing at it you're either starting with too big of a piece or you're using the wrong wood .


----------



## dancan

I had a chance to go get a few small rounds of red maple today so I drug out the PA 80 and brought it with me since it was feeling neglected .





It has a big handle so not a tool if you have small hands .
I split up some red maple .






Vs the GB






In this size wood the GB was the winner because of ease of use and I find that I'm more accurate with the shorter handles of the GB or X25 .
I also have to make a guard for overstrikes on the PA 80 .


----------



## svk

For S and G I swung through Home Depot and Walmart today to see what splitting tools they have. 

Home Depot:
Pretty sparse: an 8# maul, a 3.5# axe, and a 4.5#splitting axe. 

Both axes and the maul had a fairly sharp edge but the angle on the maul was so steep that I can see this getting stuck a lot more than making clean splits. Also the edge wasn't perfectly straight although a little better than the last couple of CT mauls that folks posted up. This would need some serious work. 



Also their replacement handles were priced a bit on the steep side. $14 for a new handle or $29 to get the whole thing, in a pinch I'd just get a backup maul....




Onto Walmart:

Their collection was condensed pretty small but they did have some funny looking tools from some company that is normally associate with scissors. I guess they reportedly work pretty well 

I'll hit Menards, Mills, Northern Tool, and Lowes over the next week and report up on what they have.


----------



## woodchuck357

when I stopped at Hot Springs wal mart the other day and found no splitting tools or chainsaw files I asked where they were and was told they are seasonal items.


----------



## svk

woodchuck357 said:


> when I stopped at Hot Springs wal mart the other day and found no splitting tools or chainsaw files I asked where they were and was told they are seasonal items.


They are pretty picked over by now. Mine had 3 saws left.


----------



## MechanicMatt

I used to use one of those home depot 4.5lb axes for all my wood. My brother in-law went threw two I broke the handle off of one. It was the repeated handle failure that led me and him to the fiskars. One good over swing and that handle is hurting, a second and toss it in the trash. The fiskars....... so far so good. Spike, has anybody broken one of your synthetic handled splitters yet? They are good lookers, hope they're as stout as they look.


----------



## mn woodcutter

Yes for splitting in a tire the fiskars is the winner in my book. However the metal must be junk on them because I sharpened it up to perfection the other day and after a half cord of hard maple splitting inside a tire up on a block the edge was all dinged up. That's kinda frustrating. I never hit anything but wood with it!


----------



## MechanicMatt

Huh! That must be some dang hard maple! I shoulda kept that homecheapo maul head and stuck a wood handle in it.


----------



## Ronaldo

dancan said:


> I had a chance to go get a few small rounds of red maple today so I drug out the PA 80 and brought it with me since it was feeling neglected .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It has a big handle so not a tool if you have small hands .
> I split up some red maple .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vs the GB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this size wood the GB was the winner because of ease of use and I find that I'm more accurate with the shorter handles of the GB or X25 .
> I also have to make a guard for overstrikes on the PA 80 .


Dancan, your pa80 looks like a pa50 splitting axe according to my Stihl literature. The pa80 is heavier at 6.6lbs and looks more like a maul.
I would love to try those Stihl tools sometime, but they are quite proud of them and price them accordingly!!!


----------



## dancan

Ronaldo , you're polly correct because I don't think it's 6.6 lbs LOL


----------



## svk

Hey @benp nice work on your most recent commercial!


----------



## benp

svk said:


> Hey @benp nice work on your most recent commercial!




LMAO!!!!

Ron Fricken Swanson!!!!!!

NICE!!!! Great Commercial.

ETA - 

I cut up two small sugar maples and got a little more seat time with the CT maul . 

The most noticeable difference, more effort to get similar or a little less results than the fiskars. 

I tried out two 10" x 24-26" paper birch rounds to compare the two. 

The Fiskars took two whacks. First went about half way through, second finished it off. 

The maul would go in a bit and stick. It took a lot of whacks to get it split. 

I then turned to a piece of black ash in similar size with the maul. It split it 3/4 of the way and I pushed it apart. 

These are still my initial impressions and by no means a real fair comparison. 

I'm still learning the maul and the Fiskars is all muscle memory. 

I have 5 good Sugar Maples to cut up this week ranging 8 - 10" in diameter that the neighbor brought home from a job. 

I think this will be a good comparison for the 2. 

Based on other observations rattling around in my noggin, I wish the Husqvarna s2800 splittling axe came in x27 length. I would be all over that.


----------



## weimedog

Have to chime in... My favorite hand splitting tool is my Husqvarna brand maul. Have to confess to killing cheap single bit axes on the real nasty stuff by hammering them through the knarly wood with a 10lbs cheap TSC plastic handled hammer. Not pretty. Kill an axe every couple of years..... but it works.


----------



## svk

benp said:


> .... got a little more seat time with the CT maul .
> 
> The most noticeable difference, more effort to get similar or a little less results than the fiskars.
> 
> I tried out two 10" x 24-26" paper birch rounds to compare the two.
> 
> The Fiskars took two whacks. First went about half way through, second finished it off.
> 
> The maul would go in a bit and stick. It took a lot of whacks to get it split.
> 
> I then turned to a piece of black ash in similar size with the maul. It split it 3/4 of the way and I pushed it apart.
> 
> These are still my initial impressions and by no means a real fair comparison.
> 
> I'm still learning the maul and the Fiskars is all muscle memory.
> 
> I have 5 good Sugar Maples to cut up this week ranging 8 - 10" in diameter that the neighbor brought home from a job.
> 
> I think this will be a good comparison for the 2.


Interesting. I'm surprised that CT's corporate spokesperson hasn't chimed in to comment on your results yet. 

I'm showing the S2800 at about $90 shipped online. Anyone seeing these for less elsewhere?


----------



## benp

svk said:


> Interesting. I'm surprised that CT's corporate spokesperson hasn't chimed in to comment on your results yet.
> 
> I'm showing the S2800 at about $90 shipped online. Anyone seeing these for less elsewhere?



It is what it is. Like I said, I need more time with it to be fair. 

The Fiskars is instinctive to me. My body knows how to get the most out of it with no thought input. 

If the Husky came in x27 length, I would buy it. I am convinced there's something to that head design.


----------



## svk

benp said:


> It is what it is. Like I said, I need more time with it to be fair.
> 
> The Fiskars is instinctive to me. My body knows how to get the most out of it with no thought input.
> 
> If the Husky came in x27 length, I would buy it. I am convinced there's something to that head design.


The one guy on here who has the Husky axe said it worked better than his Fiskars despite the shorter handle. Definitely piqued my interest.


----------



## benp

Better? Oh boy...I might be in.

I'm just skittish about a shorter handle thats all.

ETA - I just watched Mdavlee's video of it. 

I don't know. That is just too short for my tastes. That thing does split great though. 

Like I said, if it was 36" or so long, I would have one ordered.


----------



## dancan

Shorter handles work for me but it may just be what I'm used to but I have no trouble using my mauls .


----------



## svk

Here's the available offerings from Northern Tool. 

The 6# with composite handle (upper right corner) had a nicely shaped head with a decent factory edge. I'd say this is the nicest big box offering that I've seen so far. The composite handle DB looked nice too. The wood handled tools had pretty rough looking heads.


----------



## svk

Here's the selection from Menard's. As discussed in another thread, the quality of True Temper sure has declined from the 1970's era tools I own. The Yardworks 3.5# axe is about the only tool I'd consider amongst this group.  The edges on these mauls were straight although very dull.




At least the replacement handle prices are a bit more reasonable than HD.


----------



## johnnylabguy

Thanks for doing the legwork svk! I split for an hour tonight with my 5 yr old true temper 8 lb'er and I can't believe how much I enjoy making piles of splits. I was a power splitter guy my whole life until last winters end. My goal this year is to do 99 percent of my 5-8 cords by hand. I'm 39 and my job isn't that strenuous physically so I need the exercise too. I can tell my metabolism is slowing because my bathroom sale is gaining!

Btw, TSC new ad came and has 20% off axes and mauls right now. Hop in the truck with your camera svk! Lol


----------



## svk

johnnylabguy said:


> Thanks for doing the legwork svk! I split for an hour tonight with my 5 yr old true temper 8 lb'er and I can't believe how much I enjoy making piles of splits. I was a power splitter guy my whole life until last winters end. My goal this year is to do 99 percent of my 5-8 cords by hand. I'm 39 and my job isn't that strenuous physically so I need the exercise too. I can tell my metabolism is slowing because my bathroom sale is gaining!
> 
> Btw, TSC new ad came and has 20% off axes and mauls right now. Hop in the truck with your camera svk! Lol


Thanks @johnnylabguy !

Nice work on your hand splitting. I've got a goal of 20 cords by hand this year. I'm at about 16.5 hand split so far and trying to hit the goal by year end. It's a bit tougher to hand split when my friend's 27t DHT is sitting in my garage though . I too sit behind a desk and need something to keep the body working on weekends. 

No TSC near me so hopefully someone else can chime in. I'll hit Lowe's and Mill's Fleet Farm later this week.


----------



## Philbert

Bailey's has some axes and mauls on sale in their Christmas sale circular.

Philbert


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> Bailey's has some axes and mauls on sale in their Christmas sale circular.
> 
> Philbert


They've also got some fantastic prices on woodland pro SC chain. $11.99 shipped for 60DL


----------



## El Quachito

peaveymfg.com

Not to shabby in my opinion. I may have to try one someday.

I like those handle prices, alot less than what I have paid recently.


----------



## johnnylabguy

16.5! You've got me beat! I'm only about 2-3 in so far.

I have a TSC about 15 minutes from me. If I get there soon I'll snap some pics.
Ironically enough, I took this pic about a week ago there for any speeco splitter guys but never posted it:


I thought about buying it but usually I would just pin a half wheel on the motor mount with my knee while splitting the other half on all but the biggest stuff. Now I spend that money on mauls. Lol


----------



## zogger

svk said:


> Thanks @johnnylabguy !
> 
> Nice work on your hand splitting. I've got a goal of 20 cords by hand this year. I'm at about 16.5 hand split so far and trying to hit the goal by year end. It's a bit tougher to hand split when my friend's 27t DHT is sitting in my garage though . I too sit behind a desk and need something to keep the body working on weekends.
> 
> No TSC near me so hopefully someone else can chime in. I'll hit Lowe's and Mill's Fleet Farm later this week.




I only did about seven maybe this year, well, going back to last winter, then me elbow went out late spring,. beginning of summer. Hopefully be able to get back in the full swing of things. I do a little every other day, not pushing it. If I push it, I feel it going bad again so heck with it, I'll take whatever time it takes to heal up well. Mostly, just be cutting for the next several months. I really don't care if it takes me a year, the rounds will sit and slowly crack. I'm ahead enough I can afford it.

I did push it some during the test, had to, no way around it.

That elm round is staring at me, taunting [email protected]$%^&&&!*&


----------



## spike60

Nice job on those pics Steve. Maybe I'll post a pic of my own tool rack. 

The Tru-Tempers in pic #3 look like they have what I call "shin guards" just below the heads. Is that true, or just some red paint? I think that's a worthwhile feature as long as they stay in place. And did many of those heads appear to be workable as far as touching up the edges go?


----------



## svk

spike60 said:


> Nice job on those pics Steve. Maybe I'll post a pic of my own tool rack.
> 
> The Tru-Tempers in pic #3 look like they have what I call "shin guards" just below the heads. Is that true, or just some red paint? I think that's a worthwhile feature as long as they stay in place. And did many of those heads appear to be workable as far as touching up the edges go?


Correct, it is a plastic/nylon sleeve on the TT.

As I mentioned the Roughneck 6# with composite handle is ready to roll. Even the connoisseurs in here wouldn't find much to complain about in stock form.

Sure the other ones could be reshaped to work. But beyond the cutting edge the head is so thick you'd really have to take a lot of metal to get a workable tool. Everyone has a different value of money but to me, the extra $10 is money well spent. 

Examples like the TT and wood handled Roughneck are probably why so many people like a certain hollow handled tool that comes ready to roll out of the box. If you are abusing yourself with a dull 8# maul that literally bounces off hardwood and then switch to something that has a nice edge from the factory, results speak for themselves. 

Of course we'd like to see your spread!


----------



## benp

zogger said:


> I only did about seven maybe this year, well, going back to last winter, then me elbow went out late spring,. beginning of summer. Hopefully be able to get back in the full swing of things. I do a little every other day, not pushing it. If I push it, I feel it going bad again so heck with it, I'll take whatever time it takes to heal up well. Mostly, just be cutting for the next several months. I really don't care if it takes me a year, the rounds will sit and slowly crack. I'm ahead enough I can afford it.
> 
> I did push it some during the test, had to, no way around it.
> 
> *That elm round is staring at me, taunting [email protected]$%^&&&!*&*


*
*
I go from being taunted to all out war. 

You don't want to cooperate......fine...your choice. 

I kick it over and fire up the 394.


----------



## svk

Tonight's visit was to Mill's Fleet Farm. Lots of cool stuff in that place but the layout is quite confusing. 

These mauls had a nice sharpened edge but the angle was again way too steep. 

The axes were quite rough looking but had a nice feel.


----------



## benp

Today I got more seat time with the Council maul. 

I cut up some Sugar Maple that the neighbor brought home from a job. 

I started doing a side by side comparison with the Fiskars with comparative length pieces. 

First one. 






3 whacks with the Council and 2 with Fiskars.





All right time to step the length.





Fiskars blew it apart in 1 hit, the maul took 2. 





At this juncture I feel the Council is ready to be put through a normal Fiskars workload. 

The next piece I went after and the second hit. Bang.





I lol'd. What I think happened was the first strike was closest to me and about 2 inches from the edge. It created a jagged edge on the end that went to the right about an inch. 

The next strike was to the other side and going through. As it went through the handle hit that edge and broke. 

It wasn't a full blown overstrike. I knew I was going to break it sooner or later but sheesh. I would of been ticked if I was out scrounging in the woods with just this.

So the Council went in the trailer and the Fiskars went back to doing what it does best. Not caring.





So my impressions of the CT 6 lb maul so far. 

It took more effort to get less results than the Fiskars. 

Pieces don't blow apart with it. They just split. 

I really hope Husqvarna makes a longer version of that splitting axe. I'd be getting one.


----------



## dancan

Nice review benp .
I split a small load of red maple tonight , was using the Garant TCSMS60036 6lbs maul till I got it stuck in a crotch , while it does split better than my 6lbs China steel maul I still have a hard time warming up to it due to the flex that the handle has .
Since I wanted to get finished and go have supper I dug out the GB and finished the pile .


----------



## benp

Nice pile of Swamp Maple!!!

Is that the Garant in the background Dan?


----------



## mdavlee

svk said:


> The one guy on here who has the Husky axe said it worked better than his Fiskars despite the shorter handle. Definitely piqued my interest.





benp said:


> Better? Oh boy...I might be in.
> 
> I'm just skittish about a shorter handle thats all.
> 
> ETA - I just watched Mdavlee's video of it.
> 
> I don't know. That is just too short for my tastes. That thing does split great though.
> 
> Like I said, if it was 36" or so long, I would have one ordered.



That would be me. I haven't used the fiskars maybe 6 swings since I got the S2800. I use a 28" handled 5 lb Council for driving wedges when falling and bucking so the length doesn't bother me.


----------



## zogger

benp said:


> Today I got more seat time with the Council maul.
> 
> I cut up some Sugar Maple that the neighbor brought home from a job.
> 
> I started doing a side by side comparison with the Fiskars with comparative length pieces.
> 
> First one.
> 
> 3 whacks with the Council and 2 with Fiskars.
> 
> All right time to step the length.
> 
> Fiskars blew it apart in 1 hit, the maul took 2.
> 
> At this juncture I feel the Council is ready to be put through a normal Fiskars workload.
> 
> The next piece I went after and the second hit. Bang.
> 
> I lol'd. What I think happened was the first strike was closest to me and about 2 inches from the edge. It created a jagged edge on the end that went to the right about an inch.
> 
> The next strike was to the other side and going through. As it went through the handle hit that edge and broke.
> 
> It wasn't a full blown overstrike. I knew I was going to break it sooner or later but sheesh. I would of been ticked if I was out scrounging in the woods with just this.
> 
> So the Council went in the trailer and the Fiskars went back to doing what it does best. Not caring.
> 
> 
> So my impressions of the CT 6 lb maul so far.
> 
> It took more effort to get less results than the Fiskars.
> 
> Pieces don't blow apart with it. They just split.
> 
> I really hope Husqvarna makes a longer version of that splitting axe. I'd be getting one.



Well, that sucks. I was hoping they had better quality control, as the price is right and obviously would like to support made in merika and stuff. Any sort of warranty on those?

I have never had a tool handle do that to me, proly because I can't swing that hard I guess! HAHAHA!


----------



## dancan

benp said:


> Nice pile of Swamp Maple!!!
> 
> Is that the Garant in the background Dan?



Yup , I beat on it with the sledge so it's really stuck , even a wood grenade wedge stuck in there as well LOL
I'd say the Garant is polly not that bad , it's better than my made in china wedge on a stick , it's the flex in the handle that's a little different , I'm just not as accurate with the longer handled mauls , I guess I'll just have to practice more LOL


----------



## benp

mdavlee said:


> That would be me. I haven't used the fiskars maybe 6 swings since I got the S2800. I use a 28" handled 5 lb Council for driving wedges when falling and bucking so the length doesn't bother me.



Thanks for the video. I liked it!



zogger said:


> Well, that sucks. I was hoping they had better quality control, as the price is right and obviously would like to support made in merika and stuff. Any sort of warranty on those?
> 
> I have never had a tool handle do that to me, proly because I can't swing that hard I guess! HAHAHA!



I don't think I swing that hard Zog. I highly doubt there's a warranty on that. I'm not worried. 

After watching the video in the "How to Replace a Handle" thread, the only thing right about the CT handle was that you could hold it.



dancan said:


> Yup , I beat on it with the sledge so it's really stuck , even a wood grenade wedge stuck in there as well LOL
> I'd say the Garant is polly not that bad , it's better than my made in china wedge on a stick , it's the flex in the handle that's a little different , I'm just not as accurate with the longer handled mauls , I guess I'll just have to practice more LOL



I'm real skittish about using a short handled axe or maul based on the fact of blow through/splitting the head arcs back around at me. 

My neighbors boy has a Fiskars camp axe and the time I tried it, that rascal came back and tried to get me. 

I like the pointy sharp end as far away as possible from me.


----------



## dancan

I know what you mean about the arc and a short handle but I've not had that happen in the 2 years of swinging the "shorties" .
I hit the round pretty much at 90* and it's with a fast and straight down motion with very little arc and I stand with feet apart so if it was to happen it should be a miss .


----------



## benp

dancan said:


> I know what you mean about the arc and a short handle but I've not had that happen in the 2 years of swinging the "shorties" .
> I hit the round pretty much at 90* and it's with a fast and straight down motion with very little arc and I stand with feet apart so if it was to happen it should be a miss .



I discussed todays events with my neighbor tonite over a highball. 

He's kinda stoked that he has some new hammer handles from the unbroke part of CT maul handle.

I mentioned the Husky splitting axe and the size. 

The first words out of his mouth were, "We will be taking you to the ER with a partial amputation."

LOL. 

I reallllllly hope they come out with a 36".


----------



## svk

benp said:


> So my impressions of the CT 6 lb maul so far.
> 
> It took more effort to get less results than the Fiskars.
> 
> Pieces don't blow apart with it. They just split.
> 
> I really hope Husqvarna makes a longer version of that splitting axe. I'd be getting one.



Sorry to hear it bit the dust so soon. Not a lot of cash outlay but you'd still think it would have lasted longer than that. 

With all of the fanfare surrounding this tool when it first rolled into the AS scene, it's interesting to hear "the rest of the story" from an unbiased third party. 

We should start a letter writing campaign to Husky to create a 36" splitting axe....


----------



## Ambull01

benp said:


> Today I got more seat time with the Council maul.
> 
> I cut up some Sugar Maple that the neighbor brought home from a job.
> 
> I started doing a side by side comparison with the Fiskars with comparative length pieces.
> 
> First one.
> 
> 
> 3 whacks with the Council and 2 with Fiskars.
> 
> 
> All right time to step the length.
> 
> 
> Fiskars blew it apart in 1 hit, the maul took 2.
> 
> 
> At this juncture I feel the Council is ready to be put through a normal Fiskars workload.
> 
> The next piece I went after and the second hit. Bang.
> 
> I lol'd. What I think happened was the first strike was closest to me and about 2 inches from the edge. It created a jagged edge on the end that went to the right about an inch.
> 
> The next strike was to the other side and going through. As it went through the handle hit that edge and broke.
> 
> It wasn't a full blown overstrike. I knew I was going to break it sooner or later but sheesh. I would of been ticked if I was out scrounging in the woods with just this.
> 
> So the Council went in the trailer and the Fiskars went back to doing what it does best. Not caring.
> 
> So my impressions of the CT 6 lb maul so far.
> 
> It took more effort to get less results than the Fiskars.
> 
> Pieces don't blow apart with it. They just split.
> 
> I really hope Husqvarna makes a longer version of that splitting axe. I'd be getting one.



Damn you broke it already?! lol. I still haven't bought another splitting tool, only have the X27. Splits everything so far except for a few pieces. I smack rounds 4-5 times and if it doesn't seem like it will crack I noodle them. I should probably noodle more often as I've fallen in love with those long strands of wood fibers.


----------



## svk

Ambull01 said:


> only have the X27. Splits everything so far except for a few pieces. I smack rounds 4-5 times and if it doesn't seem like it will crack I noodle them.


I think you've found the magic formula to efficient wood processing. Shhh, don't tell anyone lol


----------



## MechanicMatt

If they made a longer handle on that husky splitting axe id love one. I think id also like a x25 or the s2800(?) For making kindling.


----------



## artbaldoni

MechanicMatt said:


> If they made a longer handle on that husky splitting axe id love one. I think id also like a x25 or the s2800(?) For making kindling.


Just purchased an X11 kindling maker, plastic wedge hammerer, stray limb slasher but I can't review it until after Santa gives it to me on Christmas!


----------



## CTYank

benp said:


> Today I got more seat time with the Council maul.
> 
> I cut up some Sugar Maple that the neighbor brought home from a job.
> 
> I started doing a side by side comparison with the Fiskars with comparative length pieces.
> 
> First one.



I hope you're not splitting those pieces on the ground, for two reasons.
1. the earth absorbs much of the energy that you've invested in accelerating the maul (a splitting-block mo-betta) ,
2. a maul is an edge tool, and rocks & such play hell with that.

Did you remove much of the bulges on either face about 1" behind the edge? If so, prolly not a great idea. They seem to be instrumental in pushing the splits apart, in their OEM finish.


----------



## svk

CTYank said:


> I hope you're not splitting those pieces on the ground, for two reasons.
> 1. the earth absorbs much of the energy that you've invested in accelerating the maul (a splitting-block mo-betta) ,
> 2. a maul is an edge tool, and rocks & such play hell with that.
> 
> Did you remove much of the bulges on either face about 1" behind the edge? If so, prolly not a great idea. They seem to be instrumental in pushing the splits apart, in their OEM finish.


You're kidding, right? Are you suggesting @benp doesn't know how to operate a maul?

1)Two tools, head to head with the same wood on the same ground. Are you suggesting the maul will miraculously outperform the Fiskars if a chopping block is brought into the picture?

2) Lots of people split directly on the ground. If they hit something, they sharpen the tool. Common sense. Last I checked a Fiskars is an "edge tool" also.

Sorry that the real world results didn't match that of your infomercial. Although that's not the first time we've seen that happen on this site.


----------



## woodchuck357

I frequently split smaller limb rounds that just need divided with a "golf club swing". The rounds laying horizontaly on the ground with nothing but inertia resisting the swing, most of the time they don't slide at all before they split.
When I split with the rounds standing the tool never hits the ground, even when I don't use the splitting ring. A splitting block just increases the chance of getting a leg hit with the ax or maul.


----------



## Philbert

I like a splitting block for the reasons mentioned. I also split smaller (12 to 16 inch long) wood, so I like it elevated on a block. Block keeps me from hitting my leg with shorter length maul (X25 type) - hits the block instead, unless you _really_ miss! JMHO 

Keeping my eyes open for the right sized (golf cart? ATV? wheelbarrow?) tire for my sized wood!

Philbert


----------



## mn woodcutter

Philbert said:


> I like a splitting block for the reasons mentioned. I also split smaller (12 to 16 inch long) wood, so I like it elevated on a block. Block keeps me from hitting my leg with shorter length maul (X25 type) - hits the block instead, unless you _really_ miss! JMHO
> 
> Keeping my eyes open for the right sized (golf cart? ATV? wheelbarrow?) tire for my sized wood!
> 
> Philbert


Why don't you use a bigger tire and just fill it with more rounds?


----------



## El Quachito

I had a handle break in a similar way when I was installing it. The handle fractured about an inch, but maybe that handle shape could is prone to fracturing like that.

I split on the ground all the time with a maul. Rounds too big to lift and splitting a tree in the woods before hauling are two times I spit on the ground, rocks and all. Of course, for the best splitting experience, I would want a block to chop on.


----------



## benp

CTYank said:


> I hope you're not splitting those pieces on the ground, for two reasons.
> 1. the earth absorbs much of the energy that you've invested in accelerating the maul (a splitting-block mo-betta) ,
> 2. a maul is an edge tool, and rocks & such play hell with that.
> 
> Did you remove much of the bulges on either face about 1" behind the edge? If so, prolly not a great idea. They seem to be instrumental in pushing the splits apart, in their OEM finish.



You have no idea of how large of a splitting block I would have to drag around with me for that to work. For me it's not going to happen. If I was splitting smaller wood all the time then I could see it's benefit. 

My wood is split right where it's cut. Be it in the woods, down at the log yard, or up near the piles. I have always done that. I'm not messing around with large rounds any more than I have to. 

The Fiskars spends quite a bit of time in the ground from blow throughs. I touch it up all the time with a raker file. Works just fine. 

The bulges are still there on the Council maul. 

I only smoothed the finish, I wasn't doing an impersonation Porterhouse with Judge Smail's golf shoes.


----------



## svk

benp said:


> You have no idea of how large of a splitting block I would have to drag around with me for that to work. For me it's not going to happen.



I'm sorry but I'm LMFAO here visualizing Ron Johnson rolling a giant splitting block through the woods of northern MN so you can "correctly" split wood.


----------



## zogger

svk said:


> I'm sorry but I'm LMFAO here visualizing Ron Johnson rolling a giant splitting block through the woods of northern MN so you can "correctly" split wood.



A good field expedient one in the woods is to square off the raggedy end of the trunk where the felling cuts are. Doesn't need to be huge, a six inch cookie is fine. Use that as a block, raggedy side down, then just take it with you when you leave, after a few whacks of course. Done that a bunch.


----------



## svk

zogger said:


> A good field expedient one in the woods is to square off the raggedy end of the trunk where the felling cuts are. Doesn't need to be huge, a six inch cookie is fine. Use that as a block, raggedy side down, then just take it with you when you leave, after a few whacks of course. Done that a bunch.


I try to flush cut when felling and square off that when splitting in the woods also. Makes a nice low splitting block. 

But I also like lining up about 20 rounds on the driveway and just go down the line. Racks up a lot of splits in a hurry. Hit the dirt? Oh darn, touch it up with the grinder or a file. My tools are for using, not looking at or talking about.


----------



## woodchuck357

zogger said:


> A good field expedient one in the woods is to square off the raggedy end of the trunk where the felling cuts are. Doesn't need to be huge, a six inch cookie is fine. Use that as a block, raggedy side down, then just take it with you when you leave, after a few whacks of course. Done that a bunch.


And what is the cookie sitting on? Most places it's the same dirt the round could have been setting on.


----------



## Ambull01

svk said:


> I think you've found the magic formula to efficient wood processing. Shhh, don't tell anyone lol



I should just throw the Fiskars away and noodle every round into splits. So much fun. 




Philbert said:


> I like a splitting block for the reasons mentioned. I also split smaller (12 to 16 inch long) wood, so I like it elevated on a block. Block keeps me from hitting my leg with shorter length maul (X25 type) - hits the block instead, unless you _really_ miss! JMHO
> 
> Keeping my eyes open for the right sized (golf cart? ATV? wheelbarrow?) tire for my sized wood!
> 
> Philbert



Amen! Just discovered how much of a difference splitting on a block vs the ground can make. Figured the ground would absorb some energy but didn't think it would make a huge difference. Placing the round on the ground lowers the strike point for me so I have longer to accelerate and seems like I'm able to use more leverage (i.e. bending knees at very end of strike to generate a bit more force). 

I picked up a little tire from the back of a auto parts store but it's still a bit too big for most of my stuff.


----------



## MechanicMatt

Six inches is a beefie cookie..........


----------



## zogger

woodchuck357 said:


> And what is the cookie sitting on? Most places it's the same dirt the round could have been setting on.



It is primarily as a protective layer so you don't hit dirt/rocks with the sharp edge of your whatever you are swinging. It does help somewhat with making the ground harder/firmer as well. Being the very largest piece on the tree (usually) anything else you flop on it to split will be smaller, so all your swings will be safely away from the dirt.

As to the physics why a splitting block makes for a firmer surface, can't tell ya in those terms, other than it does, tons of people have noticed this over the years. splitting blocks just seem to be firmer.

I do both, I split yesterday and today directly on the ground when making rounds small enough to pick up, BUT, I layered some thick branches down first where I was doing that. I didn't cut a splitting block, but the branches kept the mushy ground firmer for sure. After the first few whacks, they packed down then got stable and it was firmer.

Sorta like if you can, stuck in the mud, put whatever is handy under the tires, firms it up enough to get out.


----------



## woodchuck357

Like using tires to keep the splits from needing to be stood back up will also keep your tool from going all the way thru the round encourages harder strikes, using a block helps keep you from unconsiously holding back. That gives you the erroneous impression the block provides a solider support.


----------



## Philbert

woodchuck357 said:


> using a block helps keep you from unconsiously holding back. That gives you the erroneous impression the block provides a solider support.



If your splitting block is larger than the round you are splitting, it spreads the weight like the footing under a foundation.

Philbert


----------



## MechanicMatt

I dunno woodchuck, I told hold back.......ever. I too believe the chopping block helps keep the splitting energy in the to be split piece. Kinda like a foundation for a house provides stability.....


----------



## mikey517

Spent another hour this morning splitting some silver maple with the Fiskar's and the CT. I have no horse in this race, and I'm not biased to either tool. The rounds were frozen and were 16" 
and averaged 12" diameter. 











I did 2 rounds each with each tool. All in all, the Fiskar's was easier to use; less effort to split the rounds, and it never stuck in the wood. 
The CT did the job, but required more effort due to its weight and the repeated sticking in the round. And, as benp said, the CT split the wood, and the Fiskar's seemed to blow it apart. 
For me, the CT will ride the truck with some wedges, and the Fiskar's will be the tool of choice for those morning splitting sessions to kill some time and get a workout. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Philbert

Nice looking stacks. 

I like the rope - I have used bungie cord and chain to hold the rounds together. Do you just tie a simple knot in the rope? Maybe need a big cord lock or spring clamp!

Philbert


----------



## Ambull01

Philbert said:


> If your splitting block is larger than the round you are splitting, it spreads the weight like the footing under a foundation.
> 
> Philbert



Just read this for the fifth time, seriously lol. Could you explain this to me Barney style? What does it matter the size of your splitting block? As long as the block isn't so tiny that you drive it into the ground with a strike, not sure it makes a difference. Or am I misreading the whole sentence? If I am, I apologize. Been stuck on a problem at work all day so my brain is kind of fried right now.


----------



## benp

mikey517 said:


> Spent another hour this morning splitting some silver maple with the Fiskar's and the CT. I have no horse in this race, and I'm not biased to either tool. The rounds were frozen and were 16"
> and averaged 12" diameter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did 2 rounds each with each tool. All in all, the Fiskar's was easier to use; less effort to split the rounds, and it never stuck in the wood.
> The CT did the job, but required more effort due to its weight and the repeated sticking in the round. And, as benp said, the CT split the wood, and the Fiskar's seemed to blow it apart.
> For me, the CT will ride the truck with some wedges, and the Fiskar's will be the tool of choice for those morning splitting sessions to kill some time and get a workout.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks for the review Mikey!

Like Philbert said, good looking stacks of wood. 

I am warming up to a portable splitting block like what Zogger mentioned. 20" diameter and 6" thick wouldn't be too much of a pain in the butt to drag around and I think that would have me covered pretty well.


----------



## Philbert

Ambull01 said:


> Just read this for the fifth time, seriously lol. Could you explain this to me Barney style? What does it matter the size of your splitting block? As long as the block isn't so tiny that you drive it into the ground with a strike, not sure it makes a difference.






This shows it with _weight_, but the same thing would apply with impact _force_. It is spread over a wider area. It is why we use footings under building foundations, and use wider tires on mud.
If you drive a nail with a hammer into a 2X4, the small diameter of the nail will penetrate. If you strike the same 2X4 with the same hammer, and the same force, the hammer might dent the wood, but will not penetrate.

Striking firewood rounds on soft ground, the round will be driven into the dirt. On a broader base, it will penetrate less. If you use the same base, in the same location, for multiple rounds, the earth below will become compacted and 'give' less than if you struck a new spot for each piece.

Hope this helps.

(Please supply your own purple dinosaur music).

Philbert


----------



## zogger

benp said:


> Thanks for the review Mikey!
> 
> Like Philbert said, good looking stacks of wood.
> 
> I am warming up to a portable splitting block like what Zogger mentioned. 20" diameter and 6" thick wouldn't be too much of a pain in the butt to drag around and I think that would have me covered pretty well.



An alternative to that is just something like 2xbig pressure treated offcuts. Use them for splitting blocks or as a foot under a truck jack if needed, etc.

The one I was mentioning is a one use usually, right there where you fell the tree, then bust it up, tote it home. Next tree, cut another one. A butt end slice/cookie will usually always be bigger than anything else on the tree.


----------



## Philbert

zogger said:


> A butt end . . will usually always be bigger than anything else . . .


You saying someone's got a big butt?

Philbert


----------



## Ambull01

Philbert said:


> View attachment 386962
> 
> This shows it with _weight_, but the same thing would apply with impact _force_. It is spread over a wider area. It is why we use footings under building foundations, and use wider tires on mud.
> If you drive a nail with a hammer into a 2X4, the small diameter of the nail will penetrate. If you strike the same 2X4 with the same hammer, and the same force, the hammer might dent the wood, but will not penetrate.
> 
> Striking firewood rounds on soft ground, the round will be driven into the dirt. On a broader base, it will penetrate less. If you use the same base, in the same location, for multiple rounds, the earth below will become compacted and 'give' less than if you struck a new spot for each piece.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> (Please supply your own purple dinosaur music).
> 
> Philbert



Emmm, kind of clears things up. Should say clear as mud lol. I totally understand the weight distribution part. The force part on a large splitting block not so much. Just not sure how much of a difference it makes. I don't think I would be able to drive a 12" splitting block into the ground much further than a 24" block.


----------



## zogger

Philbert said:


> View attachment 386962
> 
> This shows it with _weight_, but the same thing would apply with impact _force_. It is spread over a wider area. It is why we use footings under building foundations, and use wider tires on mud.
> If you drive a nail with a hammer into a 2X4, the small diameter of the nail will penetrate. If you strike the same 2X4 with the same hammer, and the same force, the hammer might dent the wood, but will not penetrate.
> 
> Striking firewood rounds on soft ground, the round will be driven into the dirt. On a broader base, it will penetrate less. If you use the same base, in the same location, for multiple rounds, the earth below will become compacted and 'give' less than if you struck a new spot for each piece.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> (Please supply your own purple dinosaur music).
> 
> Philbert




Good illustration

I will also add, this is moot if the ground is frozen haerd, or opposite summer drought and dry hard, not really needed unless one wants to protect from hitting dirt/rocks. 

I know in the winter in chillblain zone I have frequently skipped the block and split right there on the snow covered frozen ground, but man..been a long time ago now.

As to splitting on concrete like a driveway..I ain't got one! Nearest concrete to me I could split on is..uhh..don't know, miles..I have gravel roads, clay with chert packed down. It will with no doubt chip or dull your tool splitting on it.

Could go out in the street on the blacktop...proly not a swift idea though....

This Georgia clay is just amazing, all it takes is a little bit wet, soup, dry a little bit, rock hard and dusty. Well, call it brick hard, used to be a huge business around here in ye aulden days making bricks.


----------



## zogger

mikey517 said:


> Spent another hour this morning splitting some silver maple with the Fiskar's and the CT. I have no horse in this race, and I'm not biased to either tool. The rounds were frozen and were 16"
> and averaged 12" diameter.
> 
> I did 2 rounds each with each tool. All in all, the Fiskar's was easier to use; less effort to split the rounds, and it never stuck in the wood.
> The CT did the job, but required more effort due to its weight and the repeated sticking in the round. And, as benp said, the CT split the wood, and the Fiskar's seemed to blow it apart.
> For me, the CT will ride the truck with some wedges, and the Fiskar's will be the tool of choice for those morning splitting sessions to kill some time and get a workout.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Have you taken a grinder to the council tools yet? As long as you don't BenP Hur the handle in half  maybe just sharpening it a little, etc would help.


----------



## Philbert

Ambull01 said:


> I don't think I would be able to drive a 12" splitting block into the ground much further than a 24" block.


But you get the idea. Big difference depending on the type of soil too, like Zogger notes. A dirt driveway might be compacted fairly well, but a forest floor might have many inches of mulch or loose soil. A solid base means more of the impact is directed into the wood. Maybe think about driving a nail into a 2X4 that is laying on a sandy beach, versus on a piece of pavement.

I also like splitting blocks for their height, and to protect both my legs and tools.

Philbert


----------



## benp

Philbert said:


> But you get the idea. Big difference depending on the type of soil too, like Zogger notes. A dirt driveway might be compacted fairly well, but a forest floor might have many inches of mulch or loose soil. A solid base means more of the impact is directed into the wood. Maybe think about driving a nail into a 2X4 that is laying on a sandy beach, versus on a piece of pavement.
> 
> I also like splitting blocks for their height, and to protect both my legs and tools.
> 
> Philbert



Thanks for the clarity on that philbert. [emoji106]

I might have to find a one size fits most portable block.


----------



## Philbert

benp said:


> I might have to find a one size fits most portable block.


I like Zogger's idea of using the largest round as the splitting block, than splitting that one last. That is what I do unless I have a more 'permanent' splitting station.

Philbert


----------



## Ambull01

Philbert said:


> But you get the idea. Big difference depending on the type of soil too, like Zogger notes. A dirt driveway might be compacted fairly well, but a forest floor might have many inches of mulch or loose soil. A solid base means more of the impact is directed into the wood. Maybe think about driving a nail into a 2X4 that is laying on a sandy beach, versus on a piece of pavement.
> 
> I also like splitting blocks for their height, and to protect both my legs and tools.
> 
> Philbert



True. Thanks for showing so much patience with my ignorant a$$. I must learn to stop over thinking things.


----------



## zogger

Ambull01 said:


> True. Thanks for showing so much patience with my ignorant a$$. I must learn to stop over thinking things.



Over thinking beats the snot outta under thinking, when it comes to running saws and axes and equipment. Youtube got a buncha "Hey Vern, watch this"! under thinking examples.


----------



## Ambull01

zogger said:


> Over thinking beats the snot outta under thinking, when it comes to running saws and axes and equipment. Youtube got a buncha "Hey Vern, watch this"! under thinking examples.



lol. Yeah but it makes me slow as hell. 

I absolutely have to evaluate the big picture. There's no walking up to a log and start bucking. I have to think about where to start bucking, where to stand, which way do I think the tree will roll, is there a chance of it rolling, are there things I could trip over, is the tree resting on branches under tension, etc. Came across a spring pole/branch under tension this weekend. I had to stop and evaluate it like a mathematical problem lol. Had to figure out the likeliest direction of the branch whipping, how/where to make tension relief cuts, etc.


----------



## mikey517

svk said:


> Sorry to hear it bit the dust so soon. Not a lot of cash outlay but you'd still think it would have lasted longer than that.
> 
> With all of the fanfare surrounding this tool when it first rolled into the AS scene, it's interesting to hear "the rest of the story" from an unbiased third party.
> 
> We should start a letter writing campaign to Husky to create a 36" splitting axe....





Philbert said:


> Nice looking stacks.
> 
> I like the rope - I have used bungie cord and chain to hold the rounds together. Do you just tie a simple knot in the rope? Maybe need a big cord lock or spring clamp!
> 
> Philbert


It's old dock line with a loop on one end. I just loop it through, pull tight and loop it around once or twice - just to keep the splits in place. The "block" i used today was a bit taller than the regular one I use. I just turned one of the maple rounds up to use.

Zogger, I did a light sharpening with the Dremel, but I didn't go into actual shape shifting. And I gotta believe BenP Hur's handle was defective to split right down the middle like that on just a couple of swings. I'd bet a call to Council Tool (or Bailey's) would rectify that situation.

Although I favor using the X27, I also like the Council Tool, but I will use it differently than Fiskar's. And in the interest of full disclosure, my absolute favorite splitting tool is the 27 ton Ariens. So there!!


----------



## zogger

Ambull01 said:


> lol. Yeah but it makes me slow as hell.
> 
> I absolutely have to evaluate the big picture. There's no walking up to a log and start bucking. I have to think about where to start bucking, where to stand, which way do I think the tree will roll, is there a chance of it rolling, are there things I could trip over, is the tree resting on branches under tension, etc. Came across a spring pole/branch under tension this weekend. I had to stop and evaluate it like a mathematical problem lol. Had to figure out the likeliest direction of the branch whipping, how/where to make tension relief cuts, etc.



Well, what's slower, not analyse that stuff, which is all necessary and proper, or get whacked a good one, perhaps trip to ER or morgue?

I wouldn't worry about it at all, you are doing swell.

I just putz at this stuff myself, you probably work much faster than I do. Heck, I have stared at trees on several different days before I felled them, just to make sure I was seeing everything properly and planning my cuts. 

The super production pro guys have done it so much, they can be faster, but they still see and react to all the same things, and more. They have just done it so much it becomes a faster routine, plus way more muscle memory with the saw.

Now hand splitting, on a good day anyway, I am not too shabby, the other aspects of wood production, I putz at it carefully, at my own speed. I am years ahead, no need for me to go nutso panic mode on it. 

There ain't no do-overs, gravity always works and macho bravado is no replacement for actual load physics knowledge and understanding. So don't sweat it.


----------



## zogger

mikey517 said:


> It's old dock line with a loop on one end. I just loop it through, pull tight and loop it around once or twice - just to keep the splits in place. The "block" i used today was a bit taller than the regular one I use. I just turned one of the maple rounds up to use.
> 
> Jogger, I did a light sharpening with the Dremel, but I didn't go into actual shape shifting. And I gotta believe BenP Hur's handle was defective to split right down the middle like that on just a couple of swings. I'd bet a call to Council Tool (or Bailey's) would rectify that situation.
> 
> Although I favor using the X27, I also like the Council Tool, but I will use it differently than Fiskar's. And in the interest of full disclosure, my absolute favorite splitting tool is the 27 ton Ariens. So there!!



Don't blame ya a bit for your hierarchy there.


----------



## zogger

Philbert said:


> You saying someone's got a big butt?
> 
> Philbert



..err...why yes...I have been to walmart, there are loads of big butts out there, whoppers!


----------



## Erik B

Ambull01 said:


> lol. Yeah but it makes me slow as hell.
> 
> I absolutely have to evaluate the big picture. There's no walking up to a log and start bucking. I have to think about where to start bucking, where to stand, which way do I think the tree will roll, is there a chance of it rolling, are there things I could trip over, is the tree resting on branches under tension, etc. Came across a spring pole/branch under tension this weekend. I had to stop and evaluate it like a mathematical problem lol. Had to figure out the likeliest direction of the branch whipping, how/where to make tension relief cuts, etc.


Ambull, Just pick up one of your rounds and put it on another one and give and take a swing or two at it and see how that compares to splitting rounds on the ground. Not much analyzing necessary.


----------



## Ambull01

.


Erik B said:


> Ambull, Just pick up one of your rounds and put it on another one and give and take a swing or two at it and see how that compares to splitting rounds on the ground. Not much analyzing necessary.



No my friend, that is not what I was questioning.


----------



## woodchuck357

I have heard of several council maul handles splitting like that. I suspect their process for pressing the handles into the heads as the problem. The handle may be hanging up on the eye just long enough to start a split before sliding on in.


----------



## svk

woodchuck357 said:


> I have heard of several council maul handles splitting like that. I suspect their process for pressing the handles into the heads as the problem. The handle may be hanging up on the eye just long enough to start a split before sliding on in.



You may be right. 

Can't remember if it was Benp or someone else who posted a picture of the handle within the eye and it was fit very poorly.


----------



## artbaldoni

I just used the Fiskars sharpener. All I can say is for $10. WOW! I have been sharpening mine with a file and stone and the sharpener made it even sharper than new. After sharpening I split several of the uglies off the "hyd splitter" pile. Get the sharpener, actually get 2, one for the kitchen and one for the shop!


----------



## zogger

artbaldoni said:


> I just used the Fiskars sharpener. All I can say is for $10. WOW! I have been sharpening mine with a file and stone and the sharpener made it even sharper than new. After sharpening I split several of the uglies off the "hyd splitter" pile. Get the sharpener, actually get 2, one for the kitchen and one for the shop!



I got one and it has never worked for me. When you roll your edge across it, do the wheel things roll, or do they stay put?


----------



## artbaldoni

zogger said:


> I got one and it has never worked for me. When you roll your edge across it, do the wheel things roll, or do they stay put?


Zog, they roll. The wheels of mine are partially groved and partially smooth. 

I have never been a fan of sharpeners, figured for $10 what the heck. I can hone a pretty good edge by hand but this thing works for me. YRMV.


----------



## Ambull01

artbaldoni said:


> I just used the Fiskars sharpener. All I can say is for $10. WOW! I have been sharpening mine with a file and stone and the sharpener made it even sharper than new. After sharpening I split several of the uglies off the "hyd splitter" pile. Get the sharpener, actually get 2, one for the kitchen and one for the shop!



Awesome. You just solved something for me. I was trying to figure out the best way to sharpen my X27. First day I used it I tried to split a round on gravel. Went through and chipped the edge in a few spots. Love how most/all of the answers I need is contained in one site.


----------



## artbaldoni

Ambull01 said:


> Awesome. You just solved something for me. I was trying to figure out the best way to sharpen my X27. First day I used it I tried to split a round on gravel. Went through and chipped the edge in a few spots. Love how most/all of the answers I need is contained in one site.


 I did the exact same thing. First swing, blew through the round, hit the ground, proceeded to punch myself in the face for being so stoopid! After a few filings the chip is almost gome...


----------



## MechanicMatt

Was at lowes near me, I love my fiskars but just hate the look of the yellow handled splitters.


----------



## svk

MechanicMatt said:


> Was at lowes near me, I love my fiskars but just hate the look of the yellow handled splitters.


Buy a cheapie Matt. You can use it when splitting directly on the ground so the maul police don't come and arrest you.


----------



## El Quachito

svk said:


> Buy a cheapie Matt. You can use it when splitting directly on the ground so the maul police don't come and arrest you.



That's why I have a beater axe and maul. It's ok if they hit dirt or rock now and then, but I still treat them well.


----------



## MechanicMatt

Steve this pic is from a couple years ago, I had two yellow handles. They split ok for there price, but the russian splitter kept breaking handles. Fiskars........so far so good. And I just can't warm up to the yellow handle, except, yeah Id rather take a yellow to my buddies farm with me than my Fiskars. Ive had to quarter the rounds with the Fiskars just to pic them up and put them in the truck.


----------



## MechanicMatt

She didn't want her pic taken so she hid her face.


----------



## benp

MechanicMatt said:


> View attachment 389004
> Steve this pic is from a couple years ago, I had two yellow handles. They split ok for there price, but the russian splitter kept breaking handles. Fiskars........so far so good. And I just can't warm up to the yellow handle, except, yeah Id rather take a yellow to my buddies farm with me than my Fiskars. Ive had to quarter the rounds with the Fiskars just to pic them up and put them in the truck.



That yellow handle warms my wrists, forearms, and elbows up for a few days after usage. 

Be proud of the Fiskars if it works for you. 

I would have zero problems bailing out into the midst of a hand splitting challenge with my Buck Tooth heathen among excellent metallurgy and fine craftsmanship tools that can passed down among generations. Bring it.


----------



## MechanicMatt

Don't worry, I'm proud of my fiskars. Id put it up against anything. Pound for pound price for price champ. There may be better out there, but for fifty bucks.......nope.


----------



## svk

benp said:


> That yellow handle warms my wrists, forearms, and elbows up for a few days after usage.
> 
> Be proud of the Fiskars if it works for you.
> 
> I would have zero problems bailing out into the midst of a hand splitting challenge with my Buck Tooth heathen among excellent metallurgy and fine craftsmanship tools that can passed down among generations. Bring it.


The purists would turn around and slump away with their tails between their legs once they saw the manly pieces you split. I mean crap, some of those are as long as the Fiskars!


----------



## svk

To steal a post from another thread:


audible fart said:


> Fiskars X27 for the win.


----------



## benp

svk said:


> The purists would turn around and slump away with their tails between their legs once they saw the manly pieces you split. I mean crap, some of those are as long as the Fiskars!



None of those pictures have any movie magic added to them. Like I have always said, 3-4 whacks and no hint of a workable crack, it gets noodled. You win some, you lose some.


----------



## johnnylabguy

Well Santa finally delivered my council tools maul and I had a chance to try it out this afternoon while some of my kids were napping and others making tiny cakes in an easy bake oven. 

Before I even had a chance to "benp" (you're practically famous now Ben! lol) mine I came up with a cheesy collar that proved effective enough through at least two good over strikes:


No need to glue as the 1.5" PVC fit snug enough at the neck it never moved. In fact I'm not sure i could get it off easily. Ugly but cheap and effective thus far!

I dremeled the edge a little sharper and started hacking away on some soggy ash vs. the true temper 8 lb maul:


I won't give any final verdict as I only split 30 minutes but I did notice a few things. It's certainly easier to swing so that may be nice on longer outings. But it seamed to hang up more than the true temper so that may even out. Need some more seat time to be sure. I have an x27 still in route(I drank the kool aid!) that I'll give a go too when it arrives. Hey, at least they're cheaper than saws right?


----------



## benp

Here's a little Fiskars love for everyone on this fine day. Please pardon the I-Potatoe footage.

First up is a White Oak quarter. Yes...quarter.






71.6 lbs.







Next up a Paper Birch I cut today. I got a little, oh, long on the first cut.





114.2 lbs for this piece.






That piece is the first one I go after here. The second was the next piece in line and the last was a random Paper Birch.


----------



## Jake Wise

Gosh it took me a while to read to the end of this thread. I just started using firewood midway through last winter in my diy owb and I cut 30"+ pieces. I use a true temper 6# maul that has never been sharpened and by the time I split 3 weeks worth of white oak I feel like my back might seize up. Reading this post has taught me several things, one that most people split tiny pieces of wood, and two that splitting wood can be made a lot easier. Tomorrow I am going to sharpen it and shine it up as well as put a new fiberglass handle in it after I broke the last one (ran over it with the bulldozer). I am interested to see how much it will help to have a sharp maul.


----------



## benp

Jake Wise said:


> Gosh it took me a while to read to the end of this thread. I just started using firewood midway through last winter in my diy owb and I cut 30"+ pieces. I use a true temper 6# maul that has never been sharpened and by the time I split 3 weeks worth of white oak I feel like my back might seize up. Reading this post has taught me several things, one that* most people split tiny pieces of wood*, and two that splitting wood can be made a lot easier. Tomorrow I am going to sharpen it and shine it up as well as put a new fiberglass handle in it after I broke the last one (ran over it with the bulldozer). I am interested to see how much it will help to have a sharp maul.



Key word being......most.....not all. 

Good on you for showing your maul some attention...it will return the appreciation.


----------



## zogger

benp said:


> Here's a little Fiskars love for everyone on this fine day. Please pardon the I-Potatoe footage.
> 
> First up is a White Oak quarter. Yes...quarter.
> 
> 
> 71.6 lbs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up a Paper Birch I cut today. I got a little, oh, long on the first cut.
> 
> 
> 114.2 lbs for this piece.
> 
> 
> 
> That piece is the first one I go after here. The second was the next piece in line and the last was a random Paper Birch.




Ha, good ones! You swing hard and have some hard ground there!


----------



## theswampthing

benp said:


> That yellow handle warms my wrists, forearms, and elbows up for a few days after usage.
> 
> Be proud of the Fiskars if it works for you.
> 
> I would have zero problems bailing out into the midst of a hand splitting challenge with my Buck Tooth heathen among excellent metallurgy and fine craftsmanship tools that can passed down among generations. Bring it.


Say, any of you boys smithies? Or, if not smithies per se, were you otherwise trained in the metallurgic arts before straitened circumstances forced you into a life of aimless wanderin'?


----------



## benp

theswampthing said:


> Say, any of you boys smithies? Or, if not smithies per se, were you otherwise trained in the metallurgic arts before straitened circumstances forced you into a life of aimless wanderin'?



I thoroughly enjoy the aimless wandering bit. You pretty much have no clue where you wake up if you do. 

What's your point? 

Let me guess...the superior metallurgy of heritage tools versus the evil something something dark side Fiskars.


----------



## theswampthing

benp said:


> I thoroughly enjoy the aimless wandering bit. You pretty much have no clue where you wake up if you do.
> 
> What's your point?
> 
> Let me guess...the superior metallurgy of heritage tools versus the evil something something dark side Fiskars.


I'm guessing you haven't seen O Brother, Where Art Thou. You need to watch that ASAP.

Personally, I enjoy using traditionally styled woodworking and cutting tools. I like plastic on my tools as much as I like it on my firearms. Oddly enough, some of my most reliable guns are, in fact, polymer. I also split all of my firewood with a generic, fiberglass handled 3 1/2lb michigan axe.

Also wanted to add that I had no point whatsoever.


----------



## benp

theswampthing said:


> I'm guessing you haven't seen O Brother, Where Art Thou. You need to watch that ASAP.
> 
> Personally, I enjoy using traditionally styled woodworking and cutting tools. I like plastic on my tools as much as I like it on my firearms. Oddly enough, some of my most reliable guns are, in fact, polymer. I also split all of my firewood with a generic, fiberglass handled 3 1/2lb michigan axe.
> 
> Also wanted to add that I had no point whatsoever.



Lol - Gotcha. I'll have to dig that movie out this weekend.


----------



## svk

benp said:


> Here's a little Fiskars love for everyone on this fine day. Please pardon the I-Potatoe footage.
> 
> First up is a White Oak quarter. Yes...quarter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 71.6 lbs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up a Paper Birch I cut today. I got a little, oh, long on the first cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 114.2 lbs for this piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That piece is the first one I go after here. The second was the next piece in line and the last was a random Paper Birch.



Making it look easy!


----------



## El Quachito

Well, my new Fiskars X7 hatchet is King of the Kindling Pile right now. Just split a couple boxes worth of kindling with it and I think it is a great tool. No deflecting, no awkward handle not alot of stress on my body. Its exactly what I was looking for.

The thought of it still makes me uncomfortable, owning a plastic hatchet and all that. But this thing is wicked and that "Finlad" mark is kind of cool.

The test runs were slabs of old growth Ponderosa Pine that were whacked down to a small kindling size. I felt like I had good control and with a swift swing it really delivered on some of the uglier pieces.

Cheers


----------



## SteveSS

Those are some beastly swings, benp. I guess I have some muscles that I need to get strengthened up, because I can never seem to generate that kind of power/head speed from that type of swing. I usually wind-mill it, and rarely hit the same spot twice. Of course that means many more swings to get the same result. Cool vid's.


----------



## benp

svk said:


> Making it look easy!



I had some Tamarack yesterday that worked me pretty good. That handle got a healthy pry bar useage work out. 



SteveSS said:


> Those are some beastly swings, benp. I guess I have some muscles that I need to get strengthened up, because I can never seem to generate that kind of power/head speed from that type of swing. I usually wind-mill it, and rarely hit the same spot twice. Of course that means many more swings to get the same result. Cool vid's.



Don't feel bad about not hitting the same spot. You are not the only one....trust me.


----------



## dancan

After watching Benp's video I realised I've been doing it wrong LOL
I did find this video while surfing Utube .
10 minutes long but the older chap sure gets it done all by hand from felling to splitting with an X25.



Interesting to see what he does with the birch that he doesn't split .


----------



## benp

dancan said:


> After watching Benp's video I realised I've been doing it wrong LOL
> I did find this video while surfing Utube .
> 10 minutes long but the older chap sure gets it done all by hand from felling to splitting with an X25.
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting to see what he does with the birch that he doesn't split .




Great video Dan!!!!! Thanks for posting that. 

Reminded me of my Grandpa the way he did everything by hand.


----------



## zogger

benp said:


> Great video Dan!!!!! Thanks for posting that.
> 
> Reminded me of my Grandpa the way he did everything by hand.



That's more or less how I did all my personal early firewood, bow saw and an axe. I didn't score the logs with a drawknife though, although I see now that is a good idea, especially on birch.

I didn't cut that long either, just 16s mostly, like I do now.

I appreciate my chainsaws


----------



## johnnylabguy

That old timer was getting it done! I had a chance to split small trailer load of pin oak from my Dads recently logged woods and I was surprised how well it split with both mauls.


Pin oak is knotty and can be stringy too. I thought I would have to split most of it with the hydro but it popped nicely for the most part. Maybe it's because it was the tops but I like to think it was because now I have sharp edges on my mauls! 
After today I have a clear cut winner in the council tool 6 lb vs. my older 8 lb true temper:

The old tried and true (temper) just popped the bigger rounds better! I think for smaller rounds(12" and under) the council might work better. It still splits well. It just got hung up more than the 8 lb TT. I'm hoping the x27 impresses me more though.


----------



## Freakingstang

28-30" Pin oak and an X27... sure I used a wedge to split it in half after cracking the edges, but for the weight, I"ll take the X27 over any 6-8lb sledge or maul until you get into the really bad stuff. if you swing it like a maul or large sledge, it won't work well. There is a technique to using the X27 on bigger non straight stuff. I hated the X27 at first after using a 16lb monster maul for years...


----------



## watchamakalit

My firewood buddy and I split everything by hand. We started with generic axes and mauls. Then after reading rave reviews on here I purchased a fiskars a few years back. It was a game changer. But my buddy didn't like the short handle. But when they introduced the x27 he couldn't get one fast enough. If we get into gnarly stuff that the fiskars won't handle we simply noodle it in half and go back to the fiskars. We have been working this way together for about 6-7yrs. It makes things simple and easy. Neither of us have a desire to purchase a hydro at this point in life. We rarely have a need for my old 8lb maul however it rides along every trip because 2 is one and one is none. 

P.s. mad props to the old timers cutting by hand also. But I love my saws......


----------



## Freakingstang

watchamakalit said:


> My firewood buddy and I split everything by hand. We started with generic axes and mauls. Then after reading rave reviews on here I purchased a fiskars a few years back. It was a game changer. But my buddy didn't like the short handle. But when they introduced the x27 he couldn't get one fast enough. If we get into gnarly stuff that the fiskars won't handle we simply noodle it in half and go back to the fiskars. We have been working this way together for about 6-7yrs. It makes things simple and easy. Neither of us have a desire to purchase a hydro at this point in life. We rarely have a need for my old 8lb maul however it rides along every trip because 2 is one and one is none.
> 
> P.s. mad props to the old timers cutting by hand also. But I love my saws......



I always have split by hand. I bought the X25 for 20 bucks when TSC was clearanceing them out. It worked extremely well, but was too short. I don't use a splitting block. I cut a tree up, stand up the rounds and go to town. I do not like handling wood more times than I already have too. once the 27 came out I bought it and gave the 25 to my brother... he then like me, bought all of the fiskars. lol. For the money, you can't beat their performance and their warranty. I've split wood for 5 years with mine and done some things I shouldn't have and no issues yet. I do like nice traditional axes, and I'm redoing a 5lb GB large splitting axe right now, but for the majority of what I cut and split, the X27 gets the nod. Old pic when I still had the 25.

If you split on a block, the X25 (or husqvarna S2800) would be good. If you are above 5'7" then the 27 would be better on the ground. I found that I was coming way to close to my shins and ankles with the 25.


----------



## watchamakalit

Freakingstang said:


> I always have split by hand. I bought the X25 for 20 bucks when TSC was clearanceing them out. It worked extremely well, but was too short. I don't use a splitting block. I cut a tree up, stand up the rounds and go to town. I do not like handling wood more times than I already have too. once the 27 came out I bought it and gave the 25 to my brother... he then like me, bought all of the fiskars. lol. For the money, you can't beat their performance and their warranty. I've split wood for 5 years with mine and done some things I shouldn't have and no issues yet. I do like nice traditional axes, and I'm redoing a 5lb GB large splitting axe right now, but for the majority of what I cut and split, the X27 gets the nod. Old pic when I still had the 25.
> 
> If you split on a block, the X25 (or husqvarna S2800) would be good. If you are above 5'7" then the 27 would be better on the ground. I found that I was coming way to close to my shins and ankles with the 25.


I guess I'm an oddity. I stand 6' an d have never had a problem with the length.


----------



## zogger

You look on Amazon, at the reviews, and the x27 is simply off the scale, nothing else comes close

http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-X27-Super-Splitting-36-Inch/dp/B004M3BAQE#customerReviews


----------



## Freakingstang

watchamakalit said:


> I guess I'm an oddity. I stand 6' an d have never had a problem with the length.



I still liked and used the X25, but more than once the edge came in contact with my boot.. I want to try the husqvarna S2800 so bad because its a larger head than the X25/X27, but that short handle makes me very leary. If they made it with a 30-36" handle I'd buy one in a heartbeat.


----------



## svk

The flagship and part of the reserve fleet. The only one in the bottom row that I regularly use is the lightweight "traveler" axe on the far left during canoe trips.



Anyone have a positive ID on this? It's got a nice sized head for light duty splitting.


----------



## benp

Freakingstang said:


> 28-30" Pin oak and an X27... sure I used a wedge to split it in half after cracking the edges, but for the weight, I"ll take the X27 over any 6-8lb sledge or maul until you get into the really bad stuff. if you swing it like a maul or large sledge, it won't work well. There is a technique to using the X27 on bigger non straight stuff. I hated the X27 at first after using a 16lb monster maul for years...



That is awesome!!!!

How did you go about splitting that big round?

Perpendicular around the edges first, then circular around the ends of the first whacks, then rinse/repeat to the middle?

That's really impressive.


----------



## Freakingstang

benp said:


> That is awesome!!!!
> 
> How did you go about splitting that big round?
> 
> Perpendicular around the edges first, then circular around the ends of the first whacks, then rinse/repeat to the middle?
> 
> That's really impressive.



couple home run strikes try for giggles... had a crack started in the center and drove a wedge partially for some added pressure. ... clockwise around the edges, then perpendicular around the edge splits and worked my way inward. 

I've said it before, the X25/27 is awesome and will split most wood with ease, IF you figure out how to use it. Swing it with a maul or sledge swing will not work most times in anything larger than 16" diameter splits. Its the speed and effectiveness of a proper technique and bending of the knees and breaking the wrists right at impact. This is also why I was coming close to my shins and ankles with the X25 as it exploded through the rounds. its very hard to explain but when I got the X25, I hated it after all the rave here years ago... it wasn't until I watched a video with some guy saying you had to have the right technique and I jut chuckled like I didn't know how to swing an axe... well, after working on my technique, i got the longer 27 and use it for all of my splitting. Its actually less effort for a normal swing and the right technique than just a pick it up and smash it as hard as you can technique.


----------



## svk

Confession to make.






I finally found my 8# maul head. Although its pretty well used I could still read the sticker that said.....Collins. 

Guess I'm in the traditional tool snob club LOL.

Put a new handle on it tonight, sharpened it up, and resplit (on the ground) a couple pieces from my stack of red oak. Surprisingly the stuff was at 35% in July and is now at 22%. A couple of weeks in the furnace room for a final dry and we'll be ready for the cold snap!

The maul swings nice but moving 8 pounds just feels so slow.


----------



## zogger

svk said:


> Confession to make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally found my 8# maul head. Although its pretty well used I could still read the sticker that said.....Collins.
> 
> Guess I'm in the traditional tool snob club LOL.
> 
> Put a new handle on it tonight, sharpened it up, and resplit (on the ground) a couple pieces from my stack of red oak. Surprisingly the stuff was at 35% in July and is now at 22%. A couple of weeks in the furnace room for a final dry and we'll be ready for the cold snap!
> 
> The maul swings nice but moving 8 pounds just feels so slow.



Well, swinging an AOS is good to keep a muscle balance, fast twitch and slow twitch is what they call it, for skeletal muscle.


----------



## svk

zogger said:


> Well, swinging an AOS is good to keep a muscle balance, fast twitch and slow twitch is what they call it, for skeletal muscle.


AOS? Haven't heard that one.

I thought I was doing good with the Fiskars until I saw the destruction @benp delivered. Looks like I've got some more training to do.

I've now got a good 3.5 lb True Temper splitting axe, Fiskars X27, 6 lb True Temper, and 8 lb Collins. I'd say I'm pretty well covered.

Other users have shown that there really isn't anything new under the sun in the 6lb arena worth pursuing.

Still would like to get my hands on that new plastic Husky for a trial run though.


----------



## zogger

svk said:


> AOS? Haven't heard that one.
> 
> I thought I was doing good with the Fiskars until I saw the destruction @benp delivered. Looks like I've got some more training to do.
> 
> I've now got a good 3.5 lb True Temper splitting axe, Fiskars X27, 6 lb True Temper, and 8 lb Collins. I'd say I'm pretty well covered.
> 
> Other users have shown that there really isn't anything new under the sun in the 6lb arena worth pursuing.
> 
> Still would like to get my hands on that new plastic Husky for a trial run though.



Anvil On a Stick, old style regular heavy maul.


----------



## Rudedog

I have a Fiskars x11 17" splitting maul for kindling duties and swear by it. But wifey bought me an Estwing E3-FF4 14" splitting axe. I like it even better for making oak kindling. It weighs in at a hefty four pounds and reminds me of a drilling sledge with a great maul style face. I know its been mentioned on the site in the past but I didn't know if it was talked about in this thread. My wife got it because she heard that the company sells "American Made".


----------



## svk

Rudedog said:


> I have a Fiskars x11 17" splitting maul for kindling duties and swear by it. But wifey bought me an Estwing E3-FF4 14" splitting axe. I like it even better for making oak kindling. It weighs in at a hefty four pounds and reminds me of a drilling sledge with a great maul style face. I know its been mentioned on the site in the past but I didn't know if it was talked about in this thread. My wife got it because she heard that the company sells "American Made".


Pictures?


----------



## Rudedog

svk said:


> Pictures?


How very "Rude" of me...


----------



## Freakingstang

I like that little guy. the X7 doesnt have enough weight to it.


----------



## Rudedog

Freakingstang said:


> I like that little guy. the X7 doesnt have enough weight to it.


The X11 pictured is heavier and longer than the X7. The Estwing is the same length as the X7 but weighs in at a hefty 4 lbs.


----------



## svk

Rudedog said:


> How very "Rude" of me...
> View attachment 390043
> View attachment 390044


Very cool!


----------



## Philbert

Estwing, of course, has the solid metal hammers, where the head and handle are forged of one piece. They also make a solid metal 'campers axe' that was very popular for many years on canoe trips, etc., because of it's compact size and indestructible nature. What I see a lot of the canoeists buying now, are the Gerber axes, which are the same as the Fiskars, due to the lighter weight. Would not want to use either one of these 3/4 length axes for high volume splitting, but they work for campfires (and field dressing moose, apparently).

Philbert


----------



## Jake Wise

I have that ax and use it for limbing. It could also split kindling if I used any (see earlier pic). It takes some getting used to because you could easily remove your kneecap with it. If it is kept sharp it takes off limbs like a surgical tool.


----------



## Philbert

Yeah, they are great axes for many purposes. I would pick one up in a heartbeat for those uses if I found a good deal on one. But not as a primary tool for splitting, per this thread.

Philbert


----------



## svk

@Philbert your picture reminds me that I've got an all metal hatchet like that axe somewhere. But I think it's unpainted with wood bolted on for a handle.


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> @Philbert your picture reminds me that I've got an all metal hatchet like that axe somewhere. But I think it's unpaired with wood bolted on for a handle.


Probably worthless. Send it down to me and I will recycle it for you . . . .

Actually, I should mention that I am not all that impressed with the Fiskars hatchet. Someone told me that if I liked the Fiskars axes and mauls that I would like the hatchet for kindling. It's OK. But I just as soon use my 28" Fiskars axe for kindling, choking up on the handle a bit. *I would gladly trade it for one of the 3/4 Estwing axes, (_or another one of those cheap HF grinders_) which sell for almost the same amount.

Philbert


----------



## benp

Freakingstang said:


> couple home run strikes try for giggles... had a crack started in the center and drove a wedge partially for some added pressure. ... clockwise around the edges, then perpendicular around the edge splits and worked my way inward.
> 
> .



I tried this technique today with one of the best lengths of Tamarack I have ever cut. The pieces were 16" diameter x 28-30" long. 

Tamarack is one of my most consistently tough pieces of wood to split. Just a fight most of the time. 

That technique worked like an absolute charm.


----------



## zogger

Rudedog said:


> The X11 pictured is heavier and longer than the X7. The Estwing is the same length as the X7 but weighs in at a hefty 4 lbs.



Not breaking that estwing handle too easily, either!


----------



## Philbert

zogger said:


> Not breaking that estwing handle too easily, either!


But I have seen a few bent!

Philbert


----------



## UnforsakenGhost

zogger said:


> Anvil On a Stick, old style regular heavy maul.


I thought those were called go devils


----------



## theswampthing

I have one of the small leather wrapped Estwing hatchets. It's a nice little tool to have around. Not really great at anything, but handy, nonetheless. It does take a nice edge, and also took the tip of my thumb off while making kindling. Had a Plumb Boy Scout hatchet, but cracked.


----------



## svk

Edit: Spike and I settled our differences via PM so I removed my thoughts from here. Carry on my wood splitting friends.


----------



## zogger

UnforsakenGhost said:


> I thought those were called go devils



They are called that a lot, too. I invented "anvil on a stick".


----------



## spike60

svk said:


> Edit: Spike and I settled our differences via PM so I removed my thoughts from here. Carry on my wood splitting friends.



Yes, we exchanged some very long, enjoyable, and well written PM's. Just a misunderstanding that is now cleared up. Don't like to see that stuff here, let alone be part of it. Hope no one is waiting to see the next act, cause we aren't going to do one. LOL


----------



## dancan

Daum , I was waiting for the pics


----------



## Erik B

theswampthing said:


> I have one of the small leather wrapped Estwing hatchets. It's a nice little tool to have around. Not really great at anything, but handy, nonetheless. It does take a nice edge, and also took the tip of my thumb off while making kindling. Had a Plumb Boy Scout hatchet, but cracked.


Do you have the knife that goes with the BS hatchet?


----------



## theswampthing

Erik B said:


> Do you have the knife that goes with the BS hatchet?


Naw. My friend's dad gave me the hatchet before he moved to FLA. Don't know where he got it from.


----------



## johnnylabguy

Santa finally delivered my x27 maul this afternoon and I finally got a chance to see if it lives up to the hype! 


Unfortunately, I've split the two trailer loads of pin oak mostly with my true temper maul this week that I've been on vacation(6 lb council was 2nd place thus far). When the brown UPS Santa sleigh showed up all I had left to test the fiskars on were the uglies mostly. 

And with the limited time and usage I'm impressed. For lack of better wording, The smoothness and sharpness make up for it's lack of mass!
-I peeled a few of the the big hydro stack reserved uglies like an onion with minimal effort(even with extra wacks) from the sharp edges vs my other mauls. 
-Smaller rounds exploded apart with ease as expected
- I think the most impressive aspect is when the log isn't split the maul is easily removed. Either from the coating or design. That's really nice!
-It DEFINATELY penetrates further into a round than the other mauls I own.
-it's light. Easy to swing for over an hour at a time. Big plus. Cannot stress that enough. 

Here's an ugly I had a few hack marks in with the other mauls. The x27 broke thru in one whack. Nice. 



Now it didn't beat all my ugly stack but it definately is an improvement over any other maul that light easily. Looking forward to some straight grain wood time.


----------



## Philbert

The 'uglies' are normally harder to split. Try it side-by-side with your regular maul for a fair comparison.

Philbert


----------



## svk

Hey @spike60 

Just a thought. Would you consider doing a "Traveling S2800" demo like we did with the Leveraxe? If it's as good as the few reports say it is you may get a few sales out of the deal. 

To take it a step further: If someone tests it out and wants to keep it, they could pay you and then you could ship another one to the next person in line.


----------



## Jake Wise

Well after reading this thread I became convinced that I needed a Fiskers so I put in an order for one on amazon and I should have it on Friday. I will post my thoughts after I use it this weekend. The one I ordered was 36" all black and said discontinued by the manufacturer. If I am not mistaken this is the Super Split that I have heard praise over the newer x27 on other threads on here. We'll see how it does.


----------



## UnforsakenGhost

Jake Wise said:


> Well after reading this thread I became convinced that I needed a Fiskers so I put in an order for one on amazon and I should have it on Friday. I will post my thoughts after I use it this weekend. The one I ordered was 36" all black and said discontinued by the manufacturer. If I am not mistaken this is the Super Split that I have heard praise over the newer x27 on other threads on here. We'll see how it does.


You will love it, That's the one I've got is the all black one, although the stickers said x27 on it, no complaints, if it doesn't split it the first couple swings, it will crack enough that a heavier maul will plow through it, and it won't wear u out lol


----------



## johnnylabguy

I split a trailer load of ash this afternoon with the x27. Got the true temper out to compare but only swung it maybe half dozen times. There's just no comparison on effort to achieve the same result. 

Using the x27 is almost like cheating at my workout! 

Anyone want to buy a slightly used council 6 lb maul btw? Lol


----------



## zogger

svk said:


> Hey @spike60
> 
> Just a thought. Would you consider doing a "Traveling S2800" demo like we did with the Leveraxe? If it's as good as the few reports say it is you may get a few sales out of the deal.
> 
> To take it a step further: If someone tests it out and wants to keep it, they could pay you and then you could ship another one to the next person in line.



What I would like to see is a US distributor for those larger splatensplittenaxen that fiskars sells overseas. Those are the ones I would like to try next.


----------



## svk

johnnylabguy said:


> Anyone want to buy a slightly used council 6 lb maul btw? Lol




The only problem is you'd spend enough for a new one just to ship it!


----------



## sdt7618

Which one the x39 or the x46. Can get both in the UK but the x46 don't look nothin special.


----------



## c5rulz

Well Santa gave me a Helko Vario 2000. This thing is so pretty I don't really want to use it. Thinking about hanging it on a wall. The wife said not in "Her House". Well my garages have walls too.
















The mounting system is unique, the heads and handles can be interchanged or replaced if damaged easily.


----------



## svk

Split a good deal of deep freeze rounds today. For those who don't get a lot of cold weather it's a little different beast than working with thawed wood. Splitting tools have the tendency to bounce off of frozen rounds long before they get stuck. Although you do get cleaner splits even in green wood.

Fiskars worked better than the 8# Collins in the birch and the smaller aspen. In the big aspen, the Collins would crack pieces off the outside easier but wouldn't break them away from the main block so I'd use the Fiskars for that. The rest of the big aspen rounds are going though the DHT tomorrow.


----------



## zogger

sdt7618 said:


> Which one the x39 or the x46. Can get both in the UK but the x46 don't look nothin special.



Oh, I'd like to try them all, but most likely first pick that six pounder, must be the 39 I think.


----------



## zogger

sdt7618 said:


> Which one the x39 or the x46. Can get both in the UK but the x46 don't look nothin special.



Oh, BTW, I have your seeds, man! Send me a private conversation message with your address, I'll get them out. I was waiting until after the holidays to let the big glut of packages thin out some.


----------



## zogger

c5rulz said:


> Well Santa gave me a Helko Vario 2000. This thing is so pretty I don't really want to use it. Thinking about hanging it on a wall. The wife said not in "Her House". Well my garages have walls too.
> 
> 
> 
> The mounting system is unique, the heads and handles can be interchanged or replaced if damaged easily.



Those are just sharp lookin!

You can always hang it on the wall after a good wipedown and bustin some wood!


----------



## sdt7618

zogger said:


> Oh, I'd like to try them all, but most likely first pick that six pounder, must be the 39 I think.




Not the best vid but has both. The x39 is mucho £, about twice the x27 but the x46 is about the same price here as the x27


----------



## sdt7618

Looks like the x39 and x39 are totally different. Would appear the x39 has a plastic insert for banging on with a sledge to drive it like a wedge. The x37 is more like a trad maul


----------



## zogger

sdt7618 said:


> Which one the x39 or the x46. Can get both in the UK but the x46 don't look nothin special.



..Just looked again, I think the x37, conventional looking, just fiskars made.


----------



## spike60

svk said:


> Hey @spike60
> 
> Just a thought. Would you consider doing a "Traveling S2800" demo like we did with the Leveraxe? If it's as good as the few reports say it is you may get a few sales out of the deal.
> 
> To take it a step further: If someone tests it out and wants to keep it, they could pay you and then you could ship another one to the next person in line.



That's an interesting idea. As you know I haven't even tried one myself yet. I'm continuing to retro grade on the tool timeline and my most recent toy is an old double bit axe that I put a new handle on. 

I will brake out a S2800 for JrepairsK70E's GTG later this month and we'll see how it does and go from there. Shipping costs would likely make it better for guys to buy them locally than from me, even at the lower price I sell them at. I figure it's gotta cost $20-$25 to ship one of those things. What did it cost to ship the lever axe?


----------



## svk

spike60 said:


> That's an interesting idea. As you know I haven't even tried one myself yet. I'm continuing to retro grade on the tool timeline and my most recent toy is an old double bit axe that I put a new handle on.
> 
> I will brake out a S2800 for JrepairsK70E's GTG later this month and we'll see how it does and go from there. Shipping costs would likely make it better for guys to buy them locally than from me, even at the lower price I sell them at. I figure it's gotta cost $20-$25 to ship one of those things. What did it cost to ship the lever axe?


With a spare handle included and insurance for $300 it's $20-25 give or take. The extra insurance adds about $5 which wouldn't be necessary.


----------



## Ronaldo

c5rulz said:


> Well Santa gave me a Helko Vario 2000. This thing is so pretty I don't really want to use it. Thinking about hanging it on a wall. The wife said not in "Her House". Well my garages have walls too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mounting system is unique, the heads and handles can be interchanged or replaced if damaged easily.


I have looked over those Helkos on their website and they really interest me---very unique attatchment system and product. Any idea of the cost here in the US, are their distributors? Please inform us of your results and opinions if you decide to dirty it up and use it.


----------



## dancan

Helko was a sponsor here in other sponsors but there's 0 posts in that forum now ...
helkonorthamerica.com


----------



## c5rulz

The were a sponsor, but apparently not anymore?

Price shipped was about $108. Pretty reasonable to me considering what the other high end axes go for. I don't split much by hand since I have a gas splitter and some really big saws if I have to noodle something in order to pick up. For the money, Fiskars are hard to beat and I always have at least one X27 with me when cutting or splitting.


----------



## Philbert

c5rulz said:


> Price shipped was about $108.



I was expecting much more, compared to what some of the other ones list for! Look forward to the use report - does not have to stay on the mantle at that price.

Philbert


----------



## dancan

If it wasn't so much $$ to get it up here across the border I'd like to get the TOP Line Heavy splitting maul .


----------



## c5rulz

Philbert said:


> I was expecting much more, compared to what some of the other ones list for! Look forward to the use report - does not have to stay on the mantle at that price.
> 
> Philbert




I am pretty partial to the hydro splitter Philbert.

Your not too far away, you can come and compare the Helko to Fiskars and various other mauls I have and give and impartial review.






Or if you want to be like Abe Lincoln and split rails these would be even tougher. This was a couple weeks ago when I was helping a friend.


----------



## benp

c5rulz said:


> Well Santa gave me a Helko Vario 2000. This thing is so pretty I don't really want to use it. Thinking about hanging it on a wall. The wife said not in "Her House". Well my garages have walls too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mounting system is unique, the heads and handles can be interchanged or replaced if damaged easily.



That is gorgeous. 

I have seen those before and pretty interested in them. 

For what it's worth, here's an interesting review and maybe some pointers for it that I found on Amazon. It's the 3rd one down. 

http://www.amazon.com/Helko-Vario-Heavy-Splitter-10058/product-reviews/B00LOQO3F2

The "no-twisting" allowed kind of keeps me from trying one as I use the Fiskars as prying tool in the split quite a lot. 

I believe that is a no-no with this.


----------



## Jake Wise

My Fiskars Super Split came in today from Amazon. I went out to the wood pile and pulled out a chunk of white oak that I decided would go in whole because it looked to gnarly to split. This came out of a pile of trees that I pushed down 3+ years ago and it has been laying on the ground since then. 



It took several hits to get it to bust the first time but it finally did.



On the next split I got the axe stuck and had a time trying to get it out



Got it out but by that time I had several splits started all together which makes things almost impossible so I grabbed the claw hammer sitting near by and drove it the rest of the way through.




Once I got that done I split from the other side and it came pretty easy.





Thoughts: While it was not the super tool I half expected after some of the reviews I read I did like it. I grabbed a piece of wood that I had decided I wouldn't even try with the maul. The would was tough and the axe did at least as well as the maul would have, and when I was done swinging it I didn't feel like I needed to sit down and rest. I am thinking this will become my main splitting tool with the maul and the wedges there to back it up. When I go to the woods I take everything with me so one more tool won't hurt and this should really round out the lineup.


----------



## svk

$1 from a rummage sale. Haven't used it yet but the head has some nice weight to it.


----------



## dancan

That's a great kindling maker svk .


----------



## svk

Finally made it to Lowes




Selection is pretty limited. However the wood handled 8# maul in the lower right corner with the nylon over strike guard is by far the best looking/feeling big box maul that I've seen. It has an honest to goodness sharp edge with no unnecessary shoulder. If you did a little polishing of the face ala benp I'd say this thing could really split some wood (if you feel for swinging 8 pounds all day). At $25 it's a pretty good deal too.


----------



## MechanicMatt

Honestly, that wooden handle 34.99 axe raised my eyebrow.........


----------



## svk

MechanicMatt said:


> Honestly, that wooden handle 34.99 axe raised my eyebrow.........


I fondled it a bit. 28 inch handle though, still interested?....


----------



## MechanicMatt

Not that interested, you know what I have that will do every thing that pretty axe does........and then some?


----------



## svk

MechanicMatt said:


> Not that interested, you know what I have that will do every thing that pretty axe does........and then some?


No. Please share


----------



## MechanicMatt

Well, one hunting season I actually used my x27 as a felling axe, I wanted to clear a shooting lane with out starting my saw, I was very happy withhow the x27 dropped the trees, and we all now how they work splktting wood. Everybody has a personal preferance on the handle they like, me a don't care, I want something cheap that works, the x27 is that,and it comes with a LIFETIME warranty. I can NOT say anything bad about a wetterlings, that thing shocked me how well it worked, made me want one! But I have a good tool already, so I'll stick with it.


----------



## MechanicMatt

Sorry for the spelling, the coors light was good tonight after a LONG week.


----------



## benp

svk said:


> Finally made it to Lowes
> 
> View attachment 393261
> 
> 
> Selection is pretty limited. However the wood handled 8# maul in the lower right corner with the nylon over strike guard is by far the best looking/feeling big box maul that I've seen. It has an honest to goodness sharp edge with no unnecessary shoulder. If you did a little polishing of the face ala benp I'd say this thing could really split some wood (if you feel for swinging 8 pounds all day). At $25 it's a pretty good deal too.



That "Ergo" wave handle is interesting. Did you by chance handle it to see how it feels in hand? 

By chance did you check out the handles on the mauls? Grain direction, etc. I have to go to Fleet tomorrow for some errands and I will check out their selection. 



MechanicMatt said:


> Sorry for the spelling, the coors light was good tonight after a LONG week.



You are not the only one Matt.


----------



## svk

benp said:


> That "Ergo" wave handle is interesting. Did you by chance handle it to see how it feels in hand?
> 
> By chance did you check out the handles on the mauls? Grain direction, etc. I have to go to Fleet tomorrow for some errands and I will check out their selection.
> 
> 
> 
> You are not the only one Matt.


Didn't pick up that one. 

The fit and finish was pretty good on the 8#. Grain was about 90 degree angle from the head of the axe.


----------



## benp

svk said:


> Didn't pick up that one.
> 
> The fit and finish was pretty good on the 8#.* Grain was about 90 degree angle from the head of the axe.*



That's cool!! At least a little restored faith that some are attempting to do things right.

BTW - I emailed Gardena today to see if there are plans to come out with a 36" version of the splitting axe.

This would be the Ape Arm version of the S2800.

I could give two craps if I was swinging an aqua handled or orange/red splitting axe. All I want is that head design on a 36" handle.


----------



## svk

For 100 bucks for the 2800 I'd definitely want to swing before I buy. I'm sure I could get used to the shorter handle if necessary.


----------



## benp

svk said:


> For 100 bucks for the 2800 I'd definitely want to swing before I buy. I'm sure I could get used to the shorter handle if necessary.



I would spend the $100 on a 36" version but not the 28" with hopes that I could try and get it to work for me.

I have enough skittish moments with the Fiskars let alone something with the eating end 8" closer to me.


----------



## Ambull01

Guess I'm alone. I'm seeing guys say $100+ is not a bad price for an axe but I was a bit taken aback by the $50-ish price tag on the Fiskars. The thing that made me buy it was the lifetime warranty. I think what really gets me is when I think about it, an axe is just a wooden stick with a sharp metal object attached on the end lol. The thing was probably invented in the stone age. 

Anyway, not sure why I just wrote that. I've been wrenching on my new used beautiful old Poulan. Probably huffed gas fumes too long.


----------



## benp

Ambull01 said:


> Guess I'm alone. I'm seeing guys say $100+ is not a bad price for an axe but I was a bit taken aback by the $50-ish price tag on the Fiskars. The thing that made me buy it was the lifetime warranty. I think what really gets me is when I think about it, an axe is just a wooden stick with a sharp metal object attached on the end lol. The thing was probably invented in the stone age.
> 
> Anyway, not sure why I just wrote that. I've been wrenching on my new used beautiful old Poulan. Probably huffed gas fumes too long.


Your not alone. Trust me.

The ONLY reason why I would spring for that axe is that I am a firm believer in that head design and the fact I couldn't break the handle in the first couple hours of using it.

ETA _ Shouldn't break the handle. lol


----------



## Ambull01

benp said:


> Your not alone. Trust me.
> 
> The ONLY reason why I would spring for that axe is that I am a firm believer in that head design and the fact I couldn't break the handle in the first couple hours of using it.
> 
> ETA _ Shouldn't break the handle. lol



So it passed the benp test, nice. Companies should pay you to test handles. Put a sticker on it, "Benp Approved".


----------



## SteveSS

My Pop's has one of those red handled ones on the top right, with the wings. I swung it in some pretty straight grained red oak (16") a couple weekends ago. Seemed to do pretty well.


----------



## svk

Ambull01 said:


> Guess I'm alone. I'm seeing guys say $100+ is not a bad price for an axe but I was a bit taken aback by the $50-ish price tag on the Fiskars. The thing that made me buy it was the lifetime warranty. I think what really gets me is when I think about it, an axe is just a wooden stick with a sharp metal object attached on the end lol. The thing was probably invented in the stone age.
> 
> Anyway, not sure why I just wrote that. I've been wrenching on my new used beautiful old Poulan. Probably huffed gas fumes too long.


Here's my take: It's all relative. 

I can rent a splitter for $50 a day. Or I can buy an axe for $50 that allows me to split 98% of what the splitter would have split (noodle the rest) and I can do it at my leisure. I am also getting exercise by swinging the axe and it should last for a lifetime (side note: I've heard there's an urban legend that if you hit the dirt with a cheap axe, it will spontaneously combust. But that hasn't happened to me yet). 

Guys drop anywhere from $500 and up to get a pro saw. Then PPE, extra saw chains, sharpeners, winches, chains/cables etc. Then second, third, fourth saw.... So why skimp when it comes to a tool that is going to touch nearly every round that you cut?

You can split it all with an 8# maul. But that's damn hard work. I'd still recommend someone have a 6-8# maul for knotty stuff where a splitting axe has troubles.


----------



## benp

I swung into Fleet this morning to check out their Splitting items. 

The splitting mauls were Tupers. Wood handles were 6/8 lbs and the fiberglass ones were 6/8/10 lbs. 







I picked up a 10 lb and said screw that noise. lol

This was the average handle grain for the wood handle mauls.





And the grind. 





A little fluff and buff and I think the Truper would be good to go. Even though the heads had "Hecho in Mehico" stamped on them, the casting looked good and the head profile/design reminded me of a softer/ not as pronounced Wetterlings. If that makes sense. 

I was impressed with the QC of the Trupers. Straight grinds and good handles. 

AND speaking of handles......I started going through the replacements for the CT maul. Holee Schmolee.....

This one.....I laughed out loud. 










So, now I will be on a quest for a good handle.


----------



## El Quachito

I have to confess I bought a splitter this year and I intend to use it as much as possible. I love pulling that lever. But I still quarter or halve my rounds so I can handle them with no back strain.

It really is all relative, why skimp on a premium axe, why cut with a budget chainsaw? The argument is almost always the same. I first prefer something that works properly for my needs. So for me that makes it a 460 Rancher, a six pound maul, axe and a used splitter. Both the saw and splitter were the best I could afford and I value them both very much. The mauls are a homely bunch, but they are good tools.


----------



## El Quachito

Mexican steel files like butter or lead from my experiences.


----------



## svk

benp said:


> I swung into Fleet this morning to check out their Splitting items.
> 
> The splitting mauls were Tupers. Wood handles were 6/8 lbs and the fiberglass ones were 6/8/10 lbs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I picked up a 10 lb and said screw that noise. lol
> 
> This was the average handle grain for the wood handle mauls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the grind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little fluff and buff and I think the Truper would be good to go. Even though the heads had "Hecho in Mehico" stamped on them, the casting looked good and the head profile/design reminded me of a softer/ not as pronounced Wetterlings. If that makes sense.
> 
> I was impressed with the QC of the Trupers. Straight grinds and good handles.
> 
> AND speaking of handles......I started going through the replacements for the CT maul. Holee Schmolee.....
> 
> This one.....I laughed out loud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, now I will be on a quest for a good handle.


Mills? Or L and M?

That's definitely a close OE match for the CT handle


----------



## benp

L&M Fleet.

I wish it was a Mills....


----------



## svk

My friend has one of those glass handled 3.5# axes. It's pretty nice but one of his employees cracked the handle inside the head so we've got to locate a replacement.


----------



## Philbert

I like L&M of the four: Mill's, L&M, Blain's, Runnings. Especially for saw stuff.


Philbert


----------



## benp

Philbert said:


> I like L&M of the four: Mill's, L&M, Blain's, Runnings. Especially for saw stuff.
> 
> 
> Philbert



I agree about the saw stuff. Ours a has a good selection of Husky, Jonsered, and Stihl. I see a lot of Husky 555/562 AT's and 372/576's disappear from their shelf. 

Our L&M went through a huge improvement once Maynard's opened up right on their back stoop.


----------



## svk

benp said:


> I agree about the saw stuff. Ours a has a good selection of Husky, Jonsered, and Stihl. I see a lot of Husky 555/562 AT's and 372/576's disappear from their shelf.
> 
> Our L&M went through a huge improvement once Maynard's opened up right on their back stoop.


Agree as well. Although they used to have a locally owned feel despite being a chain. That definitely has been lost. 

We rarely see a saw over 365/2166 up this way. But they do a huge volume of sales which allows them to offer a lower price.


----------



## Philbert

benp said:


> Our L&M went through a huge improvement once Maynard's opened up right on their back stoop.



And I remember how Menard's went through a big improvement when Home Depot came to town!
(Builder's Square and Knox just left town when that happened).

I have only visited the L&M near Virginia, MN. The Mills stores near the city seem to be more focused on general merchandise than hard core farm and implement stuff.

Philbert


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> And I remember how Menard's went through a big improvement when Home Depot came to town!
> (Builder's Square and Knox just left town).
> 
> I have only visited the L&M near Virginia, MN. The Mills stores near the city seem to be more focused on general merchandise than hard core farm and implement stuff.
> 
> Philbert


That's the one I go to. You should have seen the tiny spot they started out at in town. 

They've significantly increased their hunting, clothing, and horse/farm gear over the past couple of years.


----------



## Ambull01

svk said:


> Here's my take: It's all relative.
> 
> I can rent a splitter for $50 a day. Or I can buy an axe for $50 that allows me to split 98% of what the splitter would have split (noodle the rest) and I can do it at my leisure. I am also getting exercise by swinging the axe and it should last for a lifetime (side note: I've heard there's an urban legend that if you hit the dirt with a cheap axe, it will spontaneously combust. But that hasn't happened to me yet).
> 
> Guys drop anywhere from $500 and up to get a pro saw. Then PPE, extra saw chains, sharpeners, winches, chains/cables etc. Then second, third, fourth saw.... So why skimp when it comes to a tool that is going to touch nearly every round that you cut?
> 
> You can split it all with an 8# maul. But that's damn hard work. I'd still recommend someone have a 6-8# maul for knotty stuff where a splitting axe has troubles.




lol. Man, I love how you always take potshots at a certain someone regarding the Fiskars. 

Well you really do need a pro level saw to cut firewood, it's a proven fact. If I could, I would probably take this Makita back and just buy a few more old Poulans. Maybe a 475 or 8500. I don't understand why people aren't falling over themselves trying to snatch these saws off the market. 



El Quachito said:


> I have to confess I bought a splitter this year and I intend to use it as much as possible. I love pulling that lever. But I still quarter or halve my rounds so I can handle them with no back strain.
> 
> It really is all relative, why skimp on a premium axe, why cut with a budget chainsaw? The argument is almost always the same. I first prefer something that works properly for my needs. So for me that makes it a 460 Rancher, a six pound maul, axe and a used splitter. Both the saw and splitter were the best I could afford and I value them both very much. The mauls are a homely bunch, but they are good tools.



Isn't a 460 Rancher considered a budget saw, in Stihl terms? I can definitely see splurging a bit on a splitter. An axe, no way. I'm not going to fell trees all day long Paul Bunyan style.


----------



## MechanicMatt

The 460 Rancher is a husky, there biggest non pro saw, clamshell bottom end. The ms460 is a stihl, and its a 75cc pro beast. Don't confuse the two, I'm a husqvarna guy bit if I had to chose between the two, id go stihl.


----------



## Ambull01

MechanicMatt said:


> The 460 Rancher is a husky, there biggest non pro saw, clamshell bottom end. The ms460 is a stihl, and its a 75cc pro beast. Don't confuse the two, I'm a husqvarna guy bit if I had to chose between the two, id go stihl.



Woops, you're right lol. All those numbers are so similar.


----------



## Jake Wise

Talking about the price of these mauls and axes got me thinking about a Lincoln biography I read awhile back. They explained in the book about how important it was to have a good quality ax head on the frontier because so much depended on it. When they bought an ax back then it was like investing in a pro saw today. So I guess if you are planning to need to survive in a post apocalyptic wasteland you could justify one of those 400 dollar hand made jobs someone posted a link to earlier in this thread. If not almost all of us need nothing more than the $25 truper.


----------



## Philbert

MechanicMatt said:


> The 460 Rancher is a husky, there biggest non pro saw, clamshell bottom end. The ms460 is a stihl, and its a 75cc pro beast. Don't confuse the two, . . ..





Ambull01 said:


> Woops, you're right lol. All those numbers are so similar.



http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/460-chainsaws.263502/

Philbert


----------



## Philbert

Here's another 460!



Philbert


----------



## Ambull01

Jake Wise said:


> Talking about the price of these mauls and axes got me thinking about a Lincoln biography I read awhile back. They explained in the book about how important it was to have a good quality ax head on the frontier because so much depended on it. When they bought an ax back then it was like investing in a pro saw today. So I guess if you are planning to need to survive in a post apocalyptic wasteland you could justify one of those 400 dollar hand made jobs someone posted a link to earlier in this thread. If not almost all of need nothing more than the $25 trumpets.



Amen. 



Philbert said:


> Here's another 460!
> View attachment 393553
> 
> 
> Philbert



lol. How long did it take to find that?


----------



## c5rulz

Well I put the Helko Vario 2000 in the TV room. Boy to say the MRS. was not impressed is an understatement.


----------



## zogger

c5rulz said:


> Well I put the Helko Vario 2000 in the TV room. Boy to say the MRS. was not impressed is an understatement.
> 
> /QUOTE]
> 
> Ya, but it looks sharp and blends with the wood wall.
> 
> Tell her it could be a moosehead wearing sunglasses, stogie in it's mouth..or the axe..pick one...


----------



## c5rulz

Women are the holders of incredible rage.


----------



## El Quachito

How about one of those talking bass fishes they used to sell at WalMart? That HV is Modern Art. lol.


----------



## svk

c5rulz said:


> Women are the holders of incredible rage.


----------



## woodchuck357

El Quachito said:


> How about one of those talking bass fishes they used to sell at WalMart? That HV is Modern Art. lol.


I would call it art, but not "modern". It's too practical.


----------



## El Quachito

woodchuck357 said:


> I would call it art, but not "modern". It's too practical.



I had the modern look of the tool in mind, but I agree with your point. And Modern Art is often ugly like the weird sculptures they put in big city parks and places like that.


----------



## spike60

OK, today I finally got the chance to use the Husky S2800. Joel, our young and energetic tech, needed a new maul. Despite the "handle's too short" impression he had, he liked the overall feel of the thing. After our noon closing we went out back to cut a couple pick up loads of wood. Some average size oak, and some huge, 30" ash. We also had an 8lb Council tool maul and the 6lb Total maul with us. Have to admit, the new tech S2800 was significantly better in that big stuff. We were both a wee bit shocked at how well it worked. "Wow, this thing's unreal!" I had to complain that the S2800 was better than all of my other tools and now I've got to have one for myself. Not perfect, as nothing is. If it gets stuck, it gets REAL stuck. But it was busting up wood that the 8lb Council and the 6lb Total maul just bounced off of. It really wasn't close.

Also, I got in some new Fiskars splitting axes for the guys who are into them. Mostly because I needed some splitting tools with longer handles for the big guys. Seems like there is another line in the Fiskars family that maybe you guys can enlighten us on. (Steve, jump in here) I think there are some pics posted of them earlier in this thread. Single color black handle and also a black, not gray head. Doesn't have "X27" moulded in the handle. Just a large Fiskars decal on the handle. (that won't last long) But it is a genuine Fiskars product with the lifetime warranty and seems otherwise the same as an X27. I'm guessing they took a little cost out of the manufacturing process, but the core product is essentially the same.


----------



## svk

spike60 said:


> OK, today I finally got the chance to use the Husky S2800. Joel, our young and energetic tech, needed a new maul. Despite the "handle's too short" impression he had, he liked the overall feel of the thing. After our noon closing we went out back to cut a couple pick up loads of wood. Some average size oak, and some huge, 30" ash. We also had an 8lb Council tool maul and the 6lb Total maul with us. Have to admit, the new tech S2800 was significantly better in that big stuff. We were both a wee bit shocked at how well it worked. "Wow, this thing's unreal!" I had to complain that the S2800 was better than all of my other tools and now I've got to have one for myself. Not perfect, as nothing is. If it gets stuck, it gets REAL stuck. But it was busting up wood that the 8lb Council and the 6lb Total maul just bounced off of. It really wasn't close.
> 
> Also, I got in some new Fiskars splitting axes for the guys who are into them. Mostly because I needed some splitting tools with longer handles for the big guys. Seems like there is another line in the Fiskars family that maybe you guys can enlighten us on. (Steve, jump in here) I think there are some pics posted of them earlier in this thread. Single color black handle and also a black, not gray head. Doesn't have "X27" moulded in the handle. Just a large Fiskars decal on the handle. (that won't last long) But it is a genuine Fiskars product with the lifetime warranty and seems otherwise the same as an X27. I'm guessing they took a little cost out of the manufacturing process, but the core product is essentially the same.


Awesome!


----------



## benp

svk said:


> Awesome!



Exactly!! I am a firm believer in that head design. 

Spike is the handle hollow on the 2800 like the fiskars?

I got a response from Gardena/Husqvarna group regarding a longer handled version of the 2800. They said the would pass my message along to the appropriate people. 

Dang


----------



## UnforsakenGhost

benp said:


> Exactly!! I am a firm believer in that head design.
> 
> Spike is the handle hollow on the 2800 like the fiskars?
> 
> I got a response from Gardena/Husqvarna group regarding a longer handled version of the 2800. They said the would pass my message along to the appropriate people.
> 
> Dang


Good news, I'd be game for a longer handled husq, I've handled the ones at the local dealer but can't bring myself to spend $100 on a possible shin wacker, they do feel nice tho


----------



## Jake Wise

I just bought a Fiskars with a black handle like @spike60 was talking about and it was marked discontinued by the manufacturer so I got the idea it was old stock.


----------



## Philbert

Probably discontinued them 'cause no one likes them . . . 

Philbert


----------



## zogger

I think, personal opinion only, that trading around the lighter version of the leveraxe has reached a point where we pretty much know what is up with it. The larger one might be more fun and useful for north America, or maybe (even better) the inventor might come out with a *designed* for north America version, with around a six lb head and much better handle attachment system. Or dare I say a fiskarsesque quality syn handle, then get it made cheaper some how, so he can sell it much cheaper.

I don't know his business, but how many has he actually sold in NA for 250-350? Not many I would guess.

edit: whoops, wrong thread, but it fits here good enough.


----------



## Philbert

Here's the next one:




Built in saw - cut _and_ split!

_('4-In-1' = hatchet, saw, tent stake driver, tent stake puller)_

Philbert


----------



## 1 stihl nut

I just bought a 4.5 lb splitting axe and tried it out today. I was pretty happy with how it worked. 

I haven't hand split in quite some time, however I must admit I swing an axe like lightning. It never strikes twice in the same place. 

Also picked up a 6 lb maul from Northern Tool. Anxious to giv'er some swings.


----------



## spike60

benp said:


> Exactly!! I am a firm believer in that head design.
> 
> Spike is the handle hollow on the 2800 like the fiskars?



Yeah it is. Very similar.


----------



## benp

spike60 said:


> Yeah it is. Very similar.


Excellent!!!! 

Thanks Spike!


----------



## woodchuck357

I had a chance to use one (s2800) yesterday on several different woods, I couldn't see it worked any better or worse than the x27. Any of my mauls will split knoty rounds much better than either.


----------



## UnforsakenGhost

woodchuck357 said:


> I had a chance to use one (s2800) yesterday on several different woods, I couldn't see it worked any better or worse than the x27. Any of my mauls will split knoty rounds much better than either.


Agree yet disagree, my x27 flies through the dry, easy split stuff, it sticks or gives a good crack in the knotty\ wet stuff, and once it gets the crack, I send in the true temper if its a hard splitting piece, these splitting axes have their place, it does everything my double bit Kelley does without the worry of the handle breaking


----------



## woodchuck357

Well, to be accurate, we were using an x25. The gentleman who owns them is vertically challenged and the shorter handles fit him better than they do me.
His pride of ownership leads him to prefer the s2800, but I couldn't see that it did any better for him and it for sure didn't work any better for me.


----------



## svk

@Philbert this is the little guy I referenced earlier in this thread. Appears to be homemade.


----------



## dancan

Anybody run one of these ?







It's for sale in a local ad , only 10$ , half tempted to buy it just so I can scare the daughter's boyfriend with it LOL


----------



## Philbert

Had it. Got rid of it as soon as I got my second Fiskars.
Heavy and sturdy, but crude and inarticulate.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars-28-and-36-side-by-side-comaprison.170817/ Post#2.

Philbert


----------



## dancan

Thanks Philbert .
I'll leave it be .


----------



## UnforsakenGhost

My dad had one, it was pretty much a great decoration after the first time we used it, we had more luck with a $10 yard sale maul than the triangle on a stick, sturdy handle tho


----------



## 1 stihl nut

Philbert said:


> Had it. Got rid of it as soon as I got my second Fiskars.
> Heavy and sturdy, but crude and inarticulate.
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars-28-and-36-side-by-side-comaprison.170817/ Post#2.
> 
> Philbert



Yeah. As a rule of thumb, I prefer my splitting tools to be well spoken. Although I'm not fond of it when they laugh at me.


----------



## Philbert

1 stihl nut said:


> Yeah. As a rule of thumb, I prefer my splitting tools to be well spoken. Although I'm not fond of it when they laugh at me.


I like a saw that sings, and an axe that rings clear.

Philbert


----------



## 1 stihl nut

Jake Wise said:


> Talking about the price of these mauls and axes got me thinking about a Lincoln biography I read awhile back. They explained in the book about how important it was to have a good quality ax head on the frontier because so much depended on it. When they bought an ax back then it was like investing in a pro saw today. So I guess if you are planning to need to survive in a post apocalyptic wasteland you could justify one of those 400 dollar hand made jobs someone posted a link to earlier in this thread. If not almost all of us need nothing more than the $25 truper.



I just turned on the tube to find "Abraham Lincoln, Vampire Hunter" on.

Turns out he used a double bit axe to slay vampires. I saw him take down a 12" diameter tree in one swing with one. Now I'm just watching to see if I can see what brand it is. I'd like to get me one of them.


----------



## 1 stihl nut

Philbert said:


> I like a saw that sings, and an axe that rings clear.
> 
> Philbert



That's what they call heavy metal.


----------



## zogger

UnforsakenGhost said:


> My dad had one, it was pretty much a great decoration after the first time we used it, we had more luck with a $10 yard sale maul than the triangle on a stick, sturdy handle tho



They work, they just have to be sharpened like a real axe. I used one before when they first came out, I didn't like it because it was too heavy, but they split wood well if you can get the horsepower behind them and address the edge.

Family up the street I supply wood to, around Christmas I took a truck bed row of premium hickory heartwood. Their teenage boy was showing me his monster maul, said it sucked, wouldn't split wood..it was as flat as a hammer! I mean about 1/2 inch flat edge. I said, "duh, just saw you playing with your new knife, notice it is sharp? All cutting tools need to be sharp. Take this thing to your grinder.."

With that said, for cheap bucks, the best deal out there I agree with a TSC Truper like I have, full rubber handle protector goes right though the head of the axe and extends well below the head. I have seriously abused that poor thing, still works fine. Again though, needs better than the factory edge. Cheap, works, for the purists it's a wooden handle, but the rubber guard protector is real effective how they designed it, you don't have to replace the handle all the time.

I just prefer the fiskars when I can switch to it in straightish wood. I'm built more for RPMs over torque HAHAHAHAHA


----------



## hamish

spike60 said:


> After our noon closing ....
> 
> Have to admit, the new tech S2800 was significantly better in that big stuff. We were both a wee bit shocked at how well it worked. "Wow, this thing's unreal!" I had to complain that the S2800 was better than all of my other tools and now I've got to have one for myself. Not perfect, as nothing is. If it gets stuck, it gets REAL stuck. But it was busting up wood that the 8lb Council and the 6lb Total maul just bounced off of. It really wasn't close.



Whats this about a noon closing on Saturdays?

Are you a believer now in the Fiskars and the S series line up? You know one for the house a few at the shop, one in the truck, one on the tractor...........


----------



## El Quachito

The "mega mauls" work, mine sends the pieces flying. But I did not pay for mine. I would advise against the purchase of one, although for $10 you could atleast see for yourself.


----------



## MechanicMatt

Grew up swinging monster mauls, still own one, but it only gets used when one of the nephews is over and won't give me back my fiskars.


----------



## svk

Thought this was interesting.


----------



## hamish

svk said:


> Thought this was interesting.
> 
> View attachment 397418


Do you have a copy that we can enlarge so I can read the darn thing? With many of the different head designs I could re-name them again for the regional styles here in Canada. Many of those head are known by much different names up here.


----------



## woodchuck357

http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfpubs/pdf99232823/pdf99232823Pdpi72pt04.pdf
Not the same but good info.
Might be a bit better http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=607224&d=1332457239


----------



## svk

hamish said:


> Do you have a copy that we can enlarge so I can read the darn thing? With many of the different head designs I could re-name them again for the regional styles here in Canada. Many of those head are known by much different names up here.


Looks like woodchuck found it. I saw that on google.


----------



## spike60

hamish said:


> Whats this about a noon closing on Saturdays?
> 
> Are you a believer now in the Fiskars and the S series line up? You know one for the house a few at the shop, one in the truck, one on the tractor...........



Hey, we like weekends too! During the warm months, we are open 8-6 during the week and the 8-12 on Saturday. That's 54 hours a week, and it's enough. (winter is 9-5 during the week). Saturday is primarily a drop off/pick up day. After so many years, people "get it". Well, at least the locals get it. Probably not so much the weekenders, but the store really isn't about them like other local businesses that cater to, and depend on them. We are a more pro/serious user type of shop geared towards the working guys. My saw sales mix is 85% pro saws. But either way, when noontime hits on Saturday, I'm not interested in more customers/business. I'm looking forward to enjoying the weekend with family and friends just like everybody else. 

No, I'm still not a Fiskars guy. (except for their bow saws which are cheap and very good.) But I stock them because they are the best recognized and popular brand out there and they are the only one with the longer handle that the bigger guys prefer. We revisited that ash to get some more and I had my Collins 6lb, and that was at least the equal of the S2800. Didn't bring the wood handle Husky splitting axe as this wood was way to big, and not necessarily as straight grained as ash usually is. Didn't have a wood handled Husky maul to try. The 8lb council hadn't done as well on the last trip because the edge is old and untouched, and the weight was more than what we have grown used to. The collins 6lb has a very nice edge that I put on it. The Total maul didn't work as good, because it just isn't.


----------



## benp

spike60 said:


> *Hey, we like weekends too! During the warm months, we are open 8-6 during the week and the 8-12 on Saturday. That's 54 hours a week, and it's enough. (winter is 9-5 during the week). Saturday is primarily a drop off/pick up day. After so many years, people "get it". Well, at least the locals get it. Probably not so much the weekenders, but the store really isn't about them like other local businesses that cater to, and depend on them.* We are a more pro/serious user type of shop geared towards the working guys. My saw sales mix is 85% pro saws. But either way, when noontime hits on Saturday, I'm not interested in more customers/business. I'm looking forward to enjoying the weekend with family and friends just like everybody else.



I agree. 

Your schedule is almost identical to my mom and pop family run dealer.

I have zero issues with it and I don't think any of the locals do either.


----------



## hamish

I let my employees work on Saturdays and stay open later to give them some additional hours. I have my own work to do elsewhere on Saturdays!


----------



## svk

Found these in a box of stuff from cleaning my grandpa's garage out 12 years ago after he passed and we were moving my grandma into a nursing home. Drilled the remaining wood out the eyes tonight. Not that I need more axes but what the heck, it's a fairly cheap winter project. That DB has seen some use judging by the uneven edges


----------



## svk

svk said:


> Found these in a box of stuff from cleaning my grandpa's garage out 12 years ago after he passed and we were moving my grandma into a nursing home. Drilled the remaining wood out the eyes tonight. Not that I need more axes but what the heck, it's a fairly cheap winter project. That DB has seen some use judging by the uneven edges
> View attachment 397893


Found some real nice handles for the two larger single bits and the DB tonight. Will fit this weekend. The little head had a tiny eye so may need to order one.


----------



## svk

Resurrected three of the 4 heads that I posted above. Nice looking grain on the single bit handles. 

Split a little box elder at my neighbors house. Need to do some more splitting to buff the rust off of these.


----------



## MechanicMatt

Your grandpa is smiling Steve.


----------



## svk

MechanicMatt said:


> Your grandpa is smiling Steve.


Hope so. One of his rasps would have been helpful while seating these!


----------



## svk

I measured the eye on that little head and found out it is a "scout" axe. Which is smaller than a boys axe yet the head is larger than a standard hatchet although they are sometimes grouped together.


----------



## 1 stihl nut

svk said:


> Resurrected three of the 4 heads that I posted above. Nice looking grain on the single bit handles.
> 
> Split a little box elder at my neighbors house. Need to do some more splitting to buff the rust off of these.
> 
> View attachment 401756



Looks good!

A flap wheel on a right angle grinder does a marvelous job of polishing them. They leave no swirl marks. I've use then on plow shares as well. Can also be used to dress the edge a bit.

They might not have the rustic look, but they do look sweet. You can always leave them out in the rain if you want the rustic look back.

It definitely reduces friction.


----------



## mr.finn

Those look great. Good for you for bringing them back to life!!


----------



## thefeckerwest

dancan said:


> After watching Benp's video I realised I've been doing it wrong LOL
> I did find this video while surfing Utube .
> 10 minutes long but the older chap sure gets it done all by hand from felling to splitting with an X25.
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting to see what he does with the birch that he doesn't split .



All done without the assistance of an internal combustion engine. That elderly gentleman looks trim and healthy.


----------



## maine

svk said:


> Resurrected three of the 4 heads that I posted above. Nice looking grain on the single bit handles.
> 
> Split a little box elder at my neighbors house. Need to do some more splitting to buff the rust off of these.
> 
> View attachment 401756



did you make those handles? they are beautiful.


----------



## svk

maine said:


> did you make those handles? they are beautiful.


Purchased from Menard's. The one on the left looks as though it is a laminated gun stock. Really neat coloring.


----------



## isoJ

thefeckerwest said:


> All done without the assistance of an internal combustion engine. That elderly gentleman looks trim and healthy.


I find it funny that one of the quotes from the fit gentleman in the video is actually "Back in the late 50s we still had proper axes"


----------



## sledge&wedge

Philbert said:


> Estwing, of course, has the solid metal hammers, where the head and handle are forged of one piece. They also make a solid metal 'campers axe' that was very popular for many years on canoe trips, etc., because of it's compact size and indestructible nature. What I see a lot of the canoeists buying now, are the Gerber axes, which are the same as the Fiskars, due to the lighter weight. Would not want to use either one of these 3/4 length axes for high volume splitting, but they work for campfires (and field dressing moose, apparently).
> 
> Philbert
> 
> View attachment 390051




Man, my dad has had one of these Estwing's for as long as I can remember. We've used it for everything from clearing ATV trails of blowdowns to splitting wood around a campfire. I watched him cut down the broken off trunk of a 20" pine with that thing in about 20 chops and looking back, I can't believe how much of a feat that really was. I don't think I can remember a single trip to any woods, anywhere, that didn't involve that axe. I picked one up on clearance from Cabela's about 5 years ago and have used it for tons of tasks. Lightweight, solid, good price, and nostalgic (for me, at least). I'll never have to buy another axe again.

Keep in mind... I didn't say I use it for splitting regularly. The ol' X27 still reigns supreme there. 

Thanks @Philbert for the nostalgia overdose to finish out my day at work .


----------



## maine

svk said:


> Purchased from Menard's. The one on the left looks as though it is a laminated gun stock. Really neat coloring.



i do not know what Menards is but those look like quality.


----------



## UnforsakenGhost

Menard's is is the Walmart/sams club of lumberyards


----------



## svk

maine said:


> i do not know what Menards is but those look like quality.


Regional store similar to Home Depot and TSC rolled into one. They even have groceries.


----------



## svk

http://www.amazon.com/GARDENA-Model...UTF8&qid=1423670396&sr=8-1&keywords=s2800+axe

I think we figured out who is making the S2800 for Husqvarna.


----------



## Philbert

From that description there is a 10 year warranty. Looks nice. Would like to try one. Think it is worth 2X the price ofan X27?

Philbert


----------



## El Quachito

svk said:


> http://www.amazon.com/GARDENA-Model...UTF8&qid=1423670396&sr=8-1&keywords=s2800+axe
> 
> I think we figured out who is making the S2800 for Husqvarna.



Bingo.



Philbert said:


> From that description there is a 10 year warranty. Looks nice. Would like to try one. Think it is worth 2X the price ofan X27?
> 
> Philbert



No.


----------



## El Quachito

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31loegX6PBL.jpg

Gotta love the name "BASH." I see Bailey's has them.


----------



## SteveSS

Philbert said:


> Think it is worth 2X the price ofan X27?
> 
> Philbert



Doubtful.

Edit: Unless that square at the back is made for whacking with a hammer. Hmmmm....


----------



## SteveSS

svk said:


> http://www.amazon.com/GARDENA-Model...UTF8&qid=1423670396&sr=8-1&keywords=s2800+axe
> 
> I think we figured out who is making the S2800 for Husqvarna.


That blue is a nice color match for my Makita.


----------



## zogger

Gardena is part of Husqvarna group, since 2007, according to their website.


----------



## svk

That blue is pretty cool looking.


----------



## Ronaldo

svk said:


> That blue is pretty cool looking.


Need one in blue and orange................HUSQVARNA colors.


----------



## SteveSS

http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...-S-H-Splitting-Maul---6-lb-Head-36-Handle.axd

This offering from Wilton looks like it may be promising. Has anyone used it? It's on sale...


----------



## zogger

SteveSS said:


> View attachment 403332
> 
> 
> http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...-S-H-Splitting-Maul---6-lb-Head-36-Handle.axd
> 
> This offering from Wilton looks like it may be promising. Has anyone used it? It's on sale...



For the sale asking price they look pretty neat!


----------



## svk

I've eyed that one for a while, Steve. Looks pretty nice.


----------



## SteveSS

It really does. I think I'm gonna grab it while it's on sale.


----------



## 1 stihl nut

I've handled them at Acme Tool Crib. The handles are definitely solid. It seems the wedge shape is most similar to the oschenkopf or whatever. A straight line from tip to widest part. 

I would guess the handle would do a great job of absorbing shock. Hard to tell for sure without using of course. Pretty sure the handles are guaranteed against breakage. 

Also noticed the had 2 different handle lengths. I definitely would want the longer one.


----------



## MechanicMatt

I have a sledge at work with that handle, 10 years of abuse its still working fine.


----------



## SteveSS

That's good info, Matt. I was already having second thoughts based on one particular amazon review about a loose head. I grabbed one though, we'll see how it works. I'll post up some pics how it looks as received, etc. I might even take a vid, so you guys can clown me on my splitting form.


----------



## 1 stihl nut

http://s1359.photobucket.com/user/xf7nut/media/Mobile Uploads/20150213_182433_zpsmtekzvmb.jpg.html?sort=3&o=4

http://s1359.photobucket.com/user/xf7nut/media/Mobile Uploads/20150213_182415_zpsvz5w3sln.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3

http://s1359.photobucket.com/user/xf7nut/media/Mobile Uploads/20150213_192608_zpsnq5jyxd2.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

http://s1359.photobucket.com/user/xf7nut/media/Mobile Uploads/20150213_192619_zpshjdydxia.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

http://s1359.photobucket.com/user/xf7nut/media/Mobile Uploads/20150213_192801_zpsx4zcf5rz.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

This is a garden variety axe. Meaning someone dug it up when they were rototilling the garden.

I liken my refurbishing to putting lipstick on a pig. I did shave me whiskers with it though. Might a felt better if I brought shaving cream. Aside from whisker shortening, what are these things used for?


----------



## maine

thumbnailed your pics for you



1 stihl nut said:


> This is a garden variety axe. Meaning someone dug it up when they were rototilling the garden.
> 
> I liken my refurbishing to putting lipstick on a pig. I did shave me whiskers with it though. Might a felt better if I brought shaving cream. Aside from whisker shortening, what are these things used for?


----------



## dancan

Fine looking kindling machine you have 1 Stihl nut .


----------



## 1 stihl nut

maine said:


> thumbnailed your pics for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 403597
> View attachment 403599
> View attachment 403605
> View attachment 403606
> View attachment 403609




Thank you sir!

I'm aspiring to be able to do that myself one day. My patience was running a little short last night.


----------



## 1 stihl nut

dancan said:


> Fine looking kindling machine you have 1 Stihl nut .



Thanks!

Kindling. ...so that's what they're used for!

I thought maybe they were for guys that swung both ways.

Btw...you can just call me "Nut".

"1 Stihl Nut" just sounds so....formal.

Only person that really ever called me that was my mother....when I was in a heap of trouble.


----------



## SteveSS

*Wilton Bash Maul
*
As promised, here are the pics of the Wilton as it was delivered, fresh out of the box.

These three pics, you can see that the grind is very even on both sides of the blade, but they don't come anywhere close to meeting up in the middle. There's really no edge to speak of at all right out of the box. A file will be required for sure.





The next three pics show the overall quality of the tool. It's very well put together and seems like a high quality unit. I'm impressed. I don't have any type of scale in the house, but it sure does feel heavier than 6 lbs. to me. I guess it's because of the 6 steel rods running the length of the handle.




I feel like $49.99 on sale was a fair price for this tool, plus $9.xx shipping of course.


----------



## svk

SteveSS said:


> *Wilton Bash Maul
> *
> As promised, here are the pics of the Wilton as it was delivered, fresh out of the box.
> 
> These three pics, you can see that the grind is very even on both sides of the blade, but they don't come anywhere close to meeting up in the middle. There's really no edge to speak of at all right out of the box. A file will be required for sure.
> View attachment 405561
> View attachment 405563
> View attachment 405566
> 
> 
> The next three pics show the overall quality of the tool. It's very well put together and seems like a high quality unit. I'm impressed. I don't have any type of scale in the house, but it sure does feel heavier than 6 lbs. to me. I guess it's because of the 6 steel rods running the length of the handle.View attachment 405570
> View attachment 405572
> View attachment 405573
> 
> 
> I feel like $49.99 on sale was a fair price for this tool, plus $9.xx shipping of course.


Looking forward to your field test results. I wonder if the edge is like that on all of them or if you ended up with a Friday afternoon model? Overall it looks like a really nice tool.


----------



## zogger

SteveSS said:


> *Wilton Bash Maul
> *
> As promised, here are the pics of the Wilton as it was delivered, fresh out of the box.
> 
> These three pics, you can see that the grind is very even on both sides of the blade, but they don't come anywhere close to meeting up in the middle. There's really no edge to speak of at all right out of the box. A file will be required for sure.
> View attachment 405561
> View attachment 405563
> View attachment 405566
> 
> 
> The next three pics show the overall quality of the tool. It's very well put together and seems like a high quality unit. I'm impressed. I don't have any type of scale in the house, but it sure does feel heavier than 6 lbs. to me. I guess it's because of the 6 steel rods running the length of the handle.View attachment 405570
> View attachment 405572
> View attachment 405573
> 
> 
> I feel like $49.99 on sale was a fair price for this tool, plus $9.xx shipping of course.



That certainly looks stout! Looking forward to your review once sharpened and in some wood!


----------



## Ambull01

SteveSS said:


> *Wilton Bash Maul
> *
> As promised, here are the pics of the Wilton as it was delivered, fresh out of the box.
> 
> These three pics, you can see that the grind is very even on both sides of the blade, but they don't come anywhere close to meeting up in the middle. There's really no edge to speak of at all right out of the box. A file will be required for sure.
> View attachment 405561
> View attachment 405563
> View attachment 405566
> 
> 
> The next three pics show the overall quality of the tool. It's very well put together and seems like a high quality unit. I'm impressed. I don't have any type of scale in the house, but it sure does feel heavier than 6 lbs. to me. I guess it's because of the 6 steel rods running the length of the handle.View attachment 405570
> View attachment 405572
> View attachment 405573
> 
> 
> I feel like $49.99 on sale was a fair price for this tool, plus $9.xx shipping of course.



Nice! Is that the real name of it? Pure genius naming it a bash maul.


----------



## SteveSS

Yep. That's the real name of it.


----------



## svk

Here's my next project, resurrecting both of these for the children's camp staff.

The Jersey head is a Plumb brand and had a handle that was way too short and had become loose beyond repair.

The other head I believe is an Ames. Someone must have given it a major over strike as the fiberglass is cracked inside of the head. 

Both of these will receive a nice 36" hardwood handle and the Ames will need a little work on the cutting edge.


----------



## wap13

SteveSS said:


> *Wilton Bash Maul
> *
> As promised, here are the pics of the Wilton as it was delivered, fresh out of the box.
> 
> These three pics, you can see that the grind is very even on both sides of the blade, but they don't come anywhere close to meeting up in the middle. There's really no edge to speak of at all right out of the box. A file will be required for sure.
> View attachment 405561
> View attachment 405563
> View attachment 405566
> 
> 
> The next three pics show the overall quality of the tool. It's very well put together and seems like a high quality unit. I'm impressed. I don't have any type of scale in the house, but it sure does feel heavier than 6 lbs. to me. I guess it's because of the 6 steel rods running the length of the handle.View attachment 405570
> View attachment 405572
> View attachment 405573
> 
> 
> I feel like $49.99 on sale was a fair price for this tool, plus $9.xx shipping of course.




Had a chance to test out the new maul yet?


----------



## SteveSS

Not yet. Sunday was too cold, and then the work week started. Maybe this weekend if it's not too muddy. Our temps have risen up quite a bit and everything is a sloppy mess right now. Soon...


----------



## svk

svk said:


> The flagship and part of the reserve fleet. The only one in the bottom row that I regularly use is the lightweight "traveler" axe on the far left during canoe trips.
> 
> View attachment 389801
> 
> Anyone have a positive ID on this? It's got a nice sized head for light duty splitting.
> View attachment 389802


Hey @Ambull01 does #2, 4, 5, or 6 along the bottom row in picture 1 pique your interest?


----------



## Ambull01

svk said:


> Hey @Ambull01 does #2, 4, 5, or 6 in picture 1 pique your interest?



Umm, they all look good. I know nothing about axe metallurgy whatchamacallit lol. Just want something that can cut a chainsaw bar out of a tree and limb. Not sure why but I kinda like the way old used axes look.


----------



## svk

Otherwise I've got a DBA also that you would be welcome to.


----------



## Ambull01

svk said:


> Otherwise I've got a DBA also that you would be welcome to.



I'll be happy with any of them. Beggars can't be choosers.


----------



## El Quachito

I was putting a handle in a #3 China axe head today and I managed to cut my finger and drop the axe on my foot and it sliced my hiking boot a good one. Did it hit skin? I couldn't tell, but the gash looked like good one. So I took my shoe off and, to my delight, my sock and my foot was uncut.

It worked ok taking a few swings at an Doug fir stump--we'll check it out some more when I have more time.


----------



## thefeckerwest

dancan said:


> Anybody run one of these ?
> For ten dollars, take it. Her boyfriend will treat you with extra respect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's for sale in a local ad , only 10$ , half tempted to buy it just so I can scare the daughter's boyfriend with it LOL


----------



## svk

For a felling axe, what length of handle do you prefer? 28" or 36"? I put 36 inchers on the last few heads I hung and they really seem to have a lot more power than the standard 28.


----------



## spike60

I like 36" on the heavier heads; 28's on the lighter heads.

When playing with all of these tools though it gets a bit dicey using different length handles. Gotta stay focused.


----------



## El Quachito

36"

That's how I like 'em.


----------



## UnforsakenGhost

I also prefer 36, anything shorter is a shin whacker


----------



## woodchuck357

Felling ax lengths were standarized at 36 inches back when the average logger was 5 foot 2 inches tall. If you are taller you might like a longer haft. I make most of mine 6 inches longer. I know I hit harder and I think more accurately with the longer hafts. The accuracy is most likely because of muscle memory from decades of using longer hafted tools.


----------



## Philbert

I don't recall seeing this before: a 17 inch Fiskars _splitting_ hatchet 'X11'. I have seen the 14 inch hatchet 'X7', and this one is on the current web page: http://www2.fiskars.com/Gardening-and-Yard-Care/Products/Axes-and-Striking-Tools, so maybe I missed it? Maybe it is new? For kindling?




I found no use for for the X7 personally - I just choked up on the handle of my Fiskars chopping axe. But I guess that there are places where these would work well.

What was also interesting was that these were at The Home Depot, in the tool aisle with the framing hammers, but I did not see any of the Fiskars axes or splitting mauls in the garden area.

Philbert


----------



## zogger

Philbert said:


> I don't recall seeing this before: a 17 inch Fiskars _splitting_ hatchet 'X11'. I have seen the 14 inch hatchet 'X7', and this one is on the current web page: http://www2.fiskars.com/Gardening-and-Yard-Care/Products/Axes-and-Striking-Tools, so maybe I missed it? Maybe it is new? For kindling?
> 
> View attachment 410784
> 
> 
> I found no use for for the X7 personally - I just choked up on the handle of my Fiskars chopping axe. But I guess that there are places where these would work well.
> 
> What was also interesting was that these were at The Home Depot, in the tool aisle with the framing hammers, but I did not see any of the Fiskars axes or splitting mauls in the garden area.
> 
> Philbert



I had some version small hatchet but it poofed away with the saws and other stuff, I don't remember which Fiskars number model. I liked it as a hatchet, but..they have no provision for a belt loop scabbard/holster, and looks like the same carrying handle thing. Which is OK, but I don't want to hand carry a hatchet around. One at the side on your belt is OK, but, if I am carrying something in my hands going camping it needs to be more substantial, a full size axe, rifle, fishing pole, etc. The one in the pic certainly is the same head shape as the splitting axes. So ya, kindling, campfire pieces, etc.


----------



## El Quachito

It is a pain in the arse to find those at Home Depot! Could be a first siting of a new product on that Fiskars, good work.


----------



## Philbert

zogger said:


> . . . I don't want to hand carry a hatchet around. One at the side on your belt is OK, but, if I am carrying something in my hands going camping it needs to be more substantial, a full size axe, rifle, fishing pole, etc.



Well, Zog, it _was_ next to 2 sizes of the Estwing, solid steel, camping/hunting axe, which come with leather sheaths included.

Philbert


----------



## svk

Hey Philbert, what metro Walmart has the bigger Fiskars? I did a search and it said none within 50 miles of Minneapolis. If you try to order online it doesn't allow free ship to store because its fulfilled from a third party.


----------



## Ambull01

@SteveSS have you tested that futuristic looking maul yet!? I'm still waiting to hear about it. 



woodchuck357 said:


> Felling ax lengths were standarized at 36 inches back when the average logger was 5 foot 2 inches tall. If you are taller you might like a longer haft. I make most of mine 6 inches longer. I know I hit harder and I think more accurately with the longer hafts. The accuracy is most likely because of muscle memory from decades of using longer hafted tools.



Damn they were some short dudes. Just saw Willow again last night for the 25th time, epic movie. I wonder what size handle those pecks would prefer?


----------



## 1 stihl nut

Philbert said:


> I don't recall seeing this before: a 17 inch Fiskars _splitting_ hatchet 'X11'. I have seen the 14 inch hatchet 'X7', and this one is on the current web page: http://www2.fiskars.com/Gardening-and-Yard-Care/Products/Axes-and-Striking-Tools, so maybe I missed it? Maybe it is new? For kindling?
> 
> View attachment 410784
> 
> 
> I found no use for for the X7 personally - I just choked up on the handle of my Fiskars chopping axe. But I guess that there are places where these would work well.
> 
> What was also interesting was that these were at The Home Depot, in the tool aisle with the framing hammers, but I did not see any of the Fiskars axes or splitting mauls in the garden area.
> 
> Philbert



They had them in both places at HD here. More of them in garden area.


----------



## SteveSS

Ambull01 said:


> @SteveSS have you tested that futuristic looking maul yet!? I'm still waiting to hear about it.


I should be able to get after it this weekend on some white oak rounds I have stashed out in the woods.


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> Hey Philbert, what metro Walmart has the bigger Fiskars?


I have seen them at Midway, but have not been there for a long time. 

Philbert


----------



## El Quachito

#3.5 "Forged China" head
36" USA hickory stick, Do-It-Best hardware brand


I had some good luck sharpening this with a bastard file and "The Puck," a sharpening puck made by a company called Lansky. I really like the puck so far. I did not use honing oil as recommened, but it would likely help the puck from gumming up. It does remove China steel, so, so far, so good.

The head was fat and blunt to start, but it sticks in wood now. I tried to model after some vintage heads I have, thinking that the old timers may have known what they were doing.

Should make a decent all-arounder or a camp axe. Who cares if this thing chops rocks or worse?

The wood dead and alive is pepper wood.


----------



## El Quachito

I have an experiment underway to tighten the head on my maul. Water is the old stand by for me, but water always dries up (you know that, right?). Internet axe snobs favor boiled linseed oil. I wanted a cheaper alternative, so I said lets try motor oil.

The final slurry was the little bit of oil in the bottoms of two "empty" quarts, some Homelite 2-cycle mix and some old Power Punch. The latter two came in a mystery box at a junk sale, so I never used them.

The first 24 hours show that the wood has pulled oil up to about the edge of the head. This is a good sign and I hope the wood swells over the next day.


----------



## El Quachito

Update: The handle has drawn up oil to jut above the other side of the head. Not enough swelling to tighten it all the way, but atleast the wood is pulling some of it. I'll keep it soaking for a few more days.


----------



## Philbert

A couple of people have told me to 'go soak my head'. Never thought of motor oil . . . 

Philbert


----------



## El Quachito

I hope that with oil it won't dry out and will help to preserve the wood. Water wicks up pretty quick, I have used a puddle in a creek to soak a handle in the field while I was running the saw.


----------



## El Quachito

Ok, the handle is tight. I think the results benefitted when I tilted the bucket to make the oil deeper and it caught some heat from the sun also. It had been cloudy since I started the soak.


----------



## zogger

El Quachito said:


> Ok, the handle is tight. I think the results benefitted when I tilted the bucket to make the oil deeper and it caught some heat from the sun also. It had been cloudy since I started the soak.



Keep soaking! Why not, maybe it will last better if soaked a couple more days.


----------



## El Quachito

that's what i'am thinking


----------



## Philbert

Plus, you can light it and split in the dark . . . 

Philbert


----------



## El Quachito

Not good news today. The head loosened again after one swing at a round. Oh well. Not what I had hoped for & I admit I was blinded by optimism in those previous posts.
But I'd still like to find an alternative to boiled lineed oil or water. I'll keep trying.

Cheers


----------



## Ronaldo

Picked up a couple X15,s at local w mart today. Had them priced same as other axes- $24.96.I bought both of them (one goes to my brother). Been wanting one of these for some time.


----------



## dancan

BLO is my go to for axe handles but only after I've set it tight with a wooden wedge and then with either a straight or round steel wedge .
El Quachito , no room left to drive in an extra steel in there ?


----------



## 1 stihl nut

El Quachito said:


> Not good news today. The head loosened again after one swing at a round. Oh well. Not what I had hoped for & I admit I was blinded by optimism in those previous posts.
> But I'd still like to find an alternative to boiled lineed oil or water. I'll keep trying.
> 
> Cheers




I was wondering if the oil gets drawn up, wouldn't it also reduce the friction between handle and head?


----------



## El Quachito

Ronaldo: Can't beat that, WalyWorld at its best right there.

dancan: Good point, I will follow up on that. I will post pics, but this was originally a plastic handle model that I put a wood handle in so its more like a small pick handle.

1 stihl nut: Sure seems possible, I wondered the same thing.


----------



## zogger

El Quachito said:


> Ronaldo: Can't beat that, WalyWorld at its best right there.
> 
> dancan: Good point, I will follow up on that. I will post pics, but this was originally a plastic handle model that I put a wood handle in so its more like a small pick handle.
> 
> 1 stihl nut: Sure seems possible, I wondered the same thing.



I HAVEN'T DONE THIS..for axe handles, but po man's waterprooofing and sealing is a solid amount of white wood glue mixed with real hot water, all the way to half and half. You want hot and plenty of stirring.. Mixes up well then. I would think that it would draw up, soak in, eventually harden and be pretty secure. this is a pure guess though. Not over oil soaked though, have to be new clean dry wood so it soaks up the most.


----------



## MechanicMatt

Zogger, as the water evaporates won't it leave just the glue in the fibers and the gluebeing 50%of the original liquod the handle will be 50% loose...... just guessing

In other news Gander MT has gerber brand camp axes that look like fiskars but with sweet kawasaki racing green handles instead of fiskars orange.


----------



## Philbert

Fiskars makes the Gerber axes, but they usually sell for more$, and if I recall correctly, the warranty is not as good.

Philbert


----------



## zogger

MechanicMatt said:


> Zogger, as the water evaporates won't it leave just the glue in the fibers and the gluebeing 50%of the original liquod the handle will be 50% loose...... just guessing
> 
> In other news Gander MT has gerber brand camp axes that look like fiskars but with sweet kawasaki racing green handles instead of fiskars orange.



Don't know, never tried it. Don't know how much of the glue will go up into the wood cells, some I would think, if the handle starts out pretty dry.


----------



## Ronaldo

MechanicMatt said:


> Zogger, as the water evaporates won't it leave just the glue in the fibers and the gluebeing 50%of the original liquod the handle will be 50% loose...... just guessing
> 
> In other news Gander MT has gerber brand camp axes that look like fiskars but with sweet kawasaki racing green handles instead of fiskars orange.


Yup, have seen em in there. They do look cool and the bright lime green makes them easier to find.


----------



## svk

I like that knock off Husky axe that is Makita blue.


----------



## svk

Woke up early with high intentions. Then I cooked a big breakfast and am ready for a siesta. Good thing I didn't get into the bloody Mary's or I'd really be feeling lazy. 

We have another day of soccer games and in between I'm helping a family member move. So no scrounging here.


----------



## Philbert

Saw this at a local Sears yesterday. Might be available at other locations too?




Philbert


----------



## MechanicMatt

Walmart has those "hatchets" and x7 together for 19.99


----------



## 1 stihl nut

Well, I picked up an x27 yesterday. 

It doesn't say x27, and the handle is all black, but I'm sure that is what it is. 

I'm a bit of a skeptic, and in spite of the fact that svk endorses them, it seems to be pretty effective.

If I didn't make any progress on a chunk after 3 wacks, I brought out the 8 lb splitting maul. It fared no better. It was light and easy to swing. And it split the wood. 

I will continue to make comparisons, and will fill y'all in.


----------



## svk

1 stihl nut said:


> Well, I picked up an x27 yesterday.
> 
> It doesn't say x27, and the handle is all black, but I'm sure that is what it is.
> 
> I'm a bit of a skeptic, and in spite of the fact that svk endorses them, it seems to be pretty effective.
> 
> If I didn't make any progress on a chunk after 3 wacks, I brought out the 8 lb splitting maul. It fared no better. It was light and easy to swing. And it split the wood.
> 
> I will continue to make comparisons, and will fill y'all in.


I'm not even sure which way to go with this one


----------



## svk

svk said:


> Here's my next project, resurrecting both of these for the children's camp staff.
> 
> The Jersey head is a Plumb brand and had a handle that was way too short and had become loose beyond repair.
> 
> The other head I believe is an Ames. Someone must have given it a major over strike as the fiberglass is cracked inside of the head.
> 
> Both of these will receive a nice 36" hardwood handle and the Ames will need a little work on the cutting edge.
> 
> View attachment 405620


Picked up new handles for both of these heads today. We'll hang them tomorrow between soccer games and test them out on some aspen rounds before sending them back to upstate NY.


----------



## 1 stihl nut

svk said:


> I'm not even sure which way to go with this one



Well then. ....mission accomplished.


----------



## svk

Ready for action once again. 

Before:



After



Had to do a little extra work to get that Jersey pattern set.


----------



## Marshy

Philbert said:


> Saw this at a local Sears yesterday. Might be available at other locations too?
> View attachment 415581
> 
> Philbert


IMO the X7's are too short. Save you money and get a X15.


----------



## svk

Spread the workload around today.


----------



## dancan

Someone should get one of these and do a review .



Nice rehandle job svk


----------



## svk

dancan said:


> Someone should get one of these and do a review .
> 
> 
> 
> Nice rehandle job svk



Where's the Zogger 2000?


----------



## Philbert

dancan said:


> Someone should get one of these and do a review.



Like in some oak instead of nearly clear fir?

Philbert


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> Like in some oak instead of nearly clear fir?
> 
> Philbert


I vote for elm.


----------



## Erik B

svk said:


> I vote for elm.


It might be nice to see him try it out on some hickory.


----------



## Philbert

Send him a note - we will swap him a LeverAxe2 for a demo unit . . . 

Philbert


----------



## svk

dancan said:


> Someone should get one of these and do a review .
> 
> 
> 
> Nice rehandle job svk



http://m.instructables.com/id/Cross-Bladed-Axe/?ALLSTEPS

IMO if you had a guy who could really weld there would be no need to grind and polish after fitting the wings.


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> Send him a note - we will swap him a LeverAxe2 for a demo unit . . .
> 
> Philbert


Heck someone on here ought to have the time and tools to make one. 

I've got a smaller head in my garage that would be great for the wings.


----------



## svk

Does anyone know the purpose of a short straight handle like this? Not sure if this was a specialty handle or just whatever was laying around when the head needed a new handle.


----------



## El Quachito

I don't think I have cracked the riddle, but I have a couple thoughts on that axe, svk.

I know some timber fallers have favored a shorter handle for pounding wedges, although many prefer a long handle and a #5 head. There is such a thing as a "miner's axe" which is a "ful size" axe with a short handle for working in tunnels. I don't know much about miner's axes as I have only read about them on the web. House Handle Co. sells a miner's handle.

You never know, but somebody probably wanted it that way for a reason.
How much do think it weighs?


----------



## svk

El Quachito said:


> I don't think I have cracked the riddle, but I have a couple thoughts on that axe, svk.
> 
> I know some timber fallers have favored a shorter handle for pounding wedges, although many prefer a long handle and a #5 head. There is such a thing as a "miner's axe" which is a "ful size" axe with a short handle for working in tunnels. I don't know much about miner's axes as I have only read about them on the web. House Handle Co. sells a miner's handle.
> 
> You never know, but somebody probably wanted it that way for a reason.
> How much do think it weighs?


Some good ideas. 

I'm terrible with weights. Not counting my two true splitting axes it's the largest head I have. 

The fit and wedging are very professional looking although my grandpa was an excellent finishing carpenter so I can't rule out a re-handle job from him.


----------



## El Quachito

That's cool, are those his initials on the handle?


----------



## svk

El Quachito said:


> That's cool, are those his initials on the handle?


Those are my dad's initials


----------



## tla100

I got enough trouble busting thru wood with a maul, much less a 4 headed one.....heh

I asked the lady at Wally World when they were going to get some X27 in, she said she would put on next order and be in a couple weeks. After breaking 2 hickory handles and bending steel handle, want to try the composite.


----------



## Ambull01

SteveSS said:


> I should be able to get after it this weekend on some white oak rounds I have stashed out in the woods.



Okay, I'm still waiting sir. The smash maul or whatever it's called is on sale at Bailey's so lets speed this test up! lol

I still really like the X27 but it doesn't do a great job on the white oak pieces I've been trying to split. May need something with a bit more heft to get through them.


----------



## svk

Ambull01 said:


> May need something with a bit more heft to get through them.



Council Tool maul? I hear they are only $25 bucks and have "excellent smithy work". Made in North Carolina too


----------



## svk

Seriously the more I look at splitting tools, the more it becomes clear that a steep angle on the face seems to yield better results. Like the Fiskars, Gransfors, etc. I spent some time with Chucker last week and he had a well used maul that also followed these lines. He made some impressive one shot kills too.


----------



## Ambull01

svk said:


> Council Tool maul? I hear they are only $25 bucks and have "excellent smithy work". Made in North Carolina too



I may have to try it. Was hoping I could get away with a very minimalist approach to firewood scrounging but my gear is slowly adding up. 



svk said:


> Seriously the more I look at splitting tools, the more it becomes clear that a steep angle on the face seems to yield better results. Like the Fiskars, Gransfors, etc. I spent some time with Chucker last week and he had a well used maul that also followed these lines. He made some impressive one shot kills too.



You think the Fiskars has a steep angle? Doesn't seem as steep as other mauls I've seen. I've used it as a chopping axe (a duty in which it sucks) to free my bar a few times.


----------



## SteveSS

Ambull01 said:


> Okay, I'm still waiting sir. The smash maul or whatever it's called is on sale at Bailey's so lets speed this test up! lol
> 
> I still really like the X27 but it doesn't do a great job on the white oak pieces I've been trying to split. May need something with a bit more heft to get through them.


I like it a lot. Just took it out back and split six 20" dia rounds that are 18" long.....Black Walnut. For some reason, I thought it was white oak when I cut it. Now that I've split some of it, it's definitely Walnut. The largest round that I split took 5 whacks to get it halved and then one whack a piece to get it down to six chunks per round. I don't remember now which weight I bought, but it was the lighter of the two. Pretty sure that I wouldn't want to swing it all day, but it seems to do a real nice job. I only swung it, didn't use any other implements to hammer on it. I feel like it was $50.00 (on sale) well spent....+ $9.00 shipping. I'd recommend it.


----------



## SteveSS

SteveSS said:


> *Wilton Bash Maul
> *
> As promised, here are the pics of the Wilton as it was delivered, fresh out of the box.
> 
> These three pics, you can see that the grind is very even on both sides of the blade, but they don't come anywhere close to meeting up in the middle. There's really no edge to speak of at all right out of the box. A file will be required for sure.
> View attachment 405561
> View attachment 405563
> View attachment 405566
> 
> 
> The next three pics show the overall quality of the tool. It's very well put together and seems like a high quality unit. I'm impressed. I don't have any type of scale in the house, but it sure does feel heavier than 6 lbs. to me. I guess it's because of the 6 steel rods running the length of the handle.View attachment 405570
> View attachment 405572
> View attachment 405573
> 
> 
> I feel like $49.99 on sale was a fair price for this tool, plus $9.xx shipping of course.


For reference of others, the post above refers to this maul. The Wilton Bash.


----------



## svk

Ambull01 said:


> I may have to try it. Was hoping I could get away with a very minimalist approach to firewood scrounging but my gear is slowly adding up.


Sarcasm was intended in my post 



Ambull01 said:


> You think the Fiskars has a steep angle? Doesn't seem as steep as other mauls I've seen. I've used it as a chopping axe (a duty in which it sucks) to free my bar a few times.


Yes the wedge shaped head (Wilton head is in this group too) seems to work better IMO versus slowly tapering heads common in big box mauls.


----------



## Ambull01

SteveSS said:


> I like it a lot. Just took it out back and split six 20" dia rounds that are 18" long.....Black Walnut. For some reason, I thought it was white oak when I cut it. Now that I've split some of it, it's definitely Walnut. The largest round that I split took 5 whacks to get it halved and then one whack a piece to get it down to six chunks per round. I don't remember now which weight I bought, but it was the lighter of the two. Pretty sure that I wouldn't want to swing it all day, but it seems to do a real nice job. I only swung it, didn't use any other implements to hammer on it. I feel like it was $50.00 (on sale) well spent....+ $9.00 shipping. I'd recommend it.



You wouldn't happen to own a Fisars X27 too would you?


----------



## SteveSS

Yessir, I do.


----------



## Ambull01

SteveSS said:


> Yessir, I do.



Okay, which one are you packing onto your four wheeler to scrounge. The X27 or the Hulk Smash maul? You know for a fact you'll be going up against large oak rounds.


----------



## johnny5ny

svk said:


> http://m.instructables.com/id/Cross-Bladed-Axe/?ALLSTEPS
> 
> IMO if you had a guy who could really weld there would be no need to grind and polish after fitting the wings.



Cuttin wheel? To cut an *axe head* in half?!
No thanks.
I'd pay a machine shop a few bucks if I didn't have a band saw.


----------



## SteveSS

Ambull01 said:


> Okay, which one are you packing onto your four wheeler to scrounge. The X27 or the Hulk Smash maul? You know for a fact you'll be going up against large oak rounds.



I thought you were going to ask me to go out and do a side by side comparison, so I grabbed the X27 and took another walk. They both get the job done, and if I could swing the X27 like benp, I wouldn't even own another splitting tool. But the Bash worked better on the bigger rounds *with me as the operator*. I feel like they both serve different purposes as members of my wood cutting arsenal. I'm happy having them both.

Pics of the carnage:





I left these 5 rounds behind because the fiskars wasn't getting it done for me. The Bash was back at the house.



I gave this one hell, but it just wouldn't give up the ghost. I was splitting across the natural split line in the wood too.



I only intended to go out and dink around with a couple rounds, but once I was out there I figured I may as well finish it up. I didn't take any gloves with me and ended up with this.



Now I have this to make it feel all better.


----------



## Philbert

SteveSS said:


> I feel like they both serve different purposes as members of my wood cutting arsenal. I'm happy having them both.


I have more than one screwdriver, and more than one pair of shoes. 

Just sayin' . . . 

Philbert


----------



## zogger

SteveSS said:


> I thought you were going to ask me to go out and do a side by side comparison, so I grabbed the X27 and took another walk. They both get the job done, and if I could swing the X27 like benp, I wouldn't even own another splitting tool. But the Bash worked better on the bigger rounds *with me as the operator*. I feel like they both serve different purposes as members of my wood cutting arsenal. I'm happy having them both.
> 
> Pics of the carnage:
> View attachment 420421
> View attachment 420424
> View attachment 420425
> 
> 
> I left these 5 rounds behind because the fiskars wasn't getting it done for me. The Bash was back at the house.
> View attachment 420426
> 
> 
> I gave this one hell, but it just wouldn't give up the ghost. I was splitting across the natural split line in the wood too.
> View attachment 420427
> 
> 
> I only intended to go out and dink around with a couple rounds, but once I was out there I figured I may as well finish it up. I didn't take any gloves with me and ended up with this.
> View attachment 420428
> 
> 
> Now I have this to make it feel all better.
> View attachment 420429



Arrghh..I'm about a 1/10th BenP Hur on whackorama grunt, so I slab off the outsides and work my way in most of the time, with the fiskars. Something like those non split ones, after the third hit, right to the outside, thin slabs, then splits.

I have to use human gearing to get stuff done most times.


----------



## Ambull01

SteveSS said:


> I thought you were going to ask me to go out and do a side by side comparison, so I grabbed the X27 and took another walk. They both get the job done, and if I could swing the X27 like benp, I wouldn't even own another splitting tool. But the Bash worked better on the bigger rounds *with me as the operator*. I feel like they both serve different purposes as members of my wood cutting arsenal. I'm happy having them both.
> 
> Pics of the carnage:
> View attachment 420421
> View attachment 420424
> View attachment 420425
> 
> 
> I left these 5 rounds behind because the fiskars wasn't getting it done for me. The Bash was back at the house.
> View attachment 420426
> 
> 
> I gave this one hell, but it just wouldn't give up the ghost. I was splitting across the natural split line in the wood too.
> View attachment 420427
> 
> 
> I only intended to go out and dink around with a couple rounds, but once I was out there I figured I may as well finish it up. I didn't take any gloves with me and ended up with this.
> View attachment 420428
> 
> 
> Now I have this to make it feel all better.
> View attachment 420429



Nice, thanks. I want my wood cutting arsenal as small as possible. Normally I use zogger's method with the Fiskars but when I'm just trying to load the bucked rounds I just try to get them to a manageable size/weight as fast as possible. I've been finding myself having to lift the whole whole bucked up piece into my wheelbarrow to save time. Of course there's always noodling pieces but I kinda like my quiet in the woods time.


----------



## Marshy

SteveSS said:


> I thought you were going to ask me to go out and do a side by side comparison, so I grabbed the X27 and took another walk. They both get the job done, and if I could swing the X27 like benp, I wouldn't even own another splitting tool. But the Bash worked better on the bigger rounds *with me as the operator*. I feel like they both serve different purposes as members of my wood cutting arsenal. I'm happy having them both.
> 
> Pics of the carnage:
> View attachment 420421
> View attachment 420424
> View attachment 420425
> 
> 
> I left these 5 rounds behind because the fiskars wasn't getting it done for me. The Bash was back at the house.
> View attachment 420426
> 
> 
> I gave this one hell, but it just wouldn't give up the ghost. I was splitting across the natural split line in the wood too.
> View attachment 420427
> 
> 
> I only intended to go out and dink around with a couple rounds, but once I was out there I figured I may as well finish it up. I didn't take any gloves with me and ended up with this.
> View attachment 420428
> 
> 
> Now I have this to make it feel all better.
> View attachment 420429


 Try splitting to the side of the center, aim for 1/3rd. If you can get 1/3rd to split off you can usually split the rest in half.


----------



## svk

Anybody get any new axes/mauls lately?

I'm eyeing up something new but not sure what yet.


----------



## gunnusmc03

I found a NOS fiskars super splitting axe. The original with the 28" handle and old style head. I like it more than my x27


----------



## Ronaldo

gunnusmc03 said:


> I found a NOS fiskars super splitting axe. The original with the 28" handle and old style head. I like it more than my x27


Where did you find that?


----------



## El Quachito

Got an old Craftsman #6 maul with an axe eye head. I put the old handle back on with a new wedge. I may keep it in my truck or put it into regular service and stick another one in the truck. By the way, I have to give a plug for househandle.com, as I was using one of their wood and two steel wedges they sell. Nice quality and a better deal than my local hardware stores.


----------



## thefeckerwest

svk said:


> Anybody get any new axes/mauls lately?
> 
> I'm eyeing up something new but not sure what yet.


Have a look at the Muller Maul from Austria. It is a high quality item. It is not cheap, but you usually get what you pay for. 
This their catalogue: http://www.mueller-hammerwerk.at/en/catalogue-2013.html
It can be confusing to read at first but you should work it out. The mauls go from 2KG (4.4lbs) to 5KG (11lbs). I have the 11 pounder. It is superior to anything that I have ever used.


----------



## gunnusmc03

Ronaldo said:


> Where did you find that?


I trolled eBay for about a year and one finally came up.


----------



## Philbert

gunnusmc03 said:


> I trolled eBay for about a year and one finally came up.


Good things come to those who wait. 

Philbert


----------



## steven stern

8Lb truper maul for everything cause im poor lol.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Erik B said:


> Do you know what the red stuff is on the opposite side of the handle on the head?


In the 1960's and 1970's, I have seen professional (Swedish Agdor from Hults Bruks) axes with this compound cover the eye of the head. I believe it is a seal to make it water proof. But I can not see that treatment being used anymore. Any wood needs to breath too...


----------



## svk

AKKAMAAN said:


> In the 1960's and 1970's, I have seen professional (Swedish Agdor from Hults Bruks) axes with this compound cover the eye of the head. I believe it is a seal to make it water proof. But I can not see that treatment being used anymore. Any wood needs to breath too...


I think a couple of my mid 80's vintage HB axes have that also...will check when I remember


----------



## cali6construction9

thefeckerwest said:


> All done without the assistance of an internal combustion engine. That elderly gentleman looks trim and healthy.


Lol yeah I like how he splits it any Idea why he partially shaved what he didn't split?

stihl 026 husky 300xp mac 610 efco 132s craftsman 170 mac 1635


----------



## SteveSS

cali6construction9 said:


> Lol yeah I like how he splits it any Idea why he partially shaved what he didn't split?


It dries faster that way.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

mikey517 said:


> Well, anyway....
> 
> I finally got some time to split using both the X27 & the Council Tool 6# maul. First, the family portrait.
> View attachment 383591
> 
> 
> Fisher's X27, Council Tool 6#, and Council Tool Hookaroon (just because!)
> The wood was red oak, bucked to 16" long, and 16" diameter.
> View attachment 383592
> View attachment 383593
> 
> 
> I started with the Fiskar's and worked from the outside area inward. Being a real novice at hand splitting, I learned from watching MechaincMatt (aka Matt) and others at Spike60's (aka Bob's) GTG. The Fiskar's worked really well penetrating the wood, opening splits but not getting stuck. I was able to generate some nice head speed with minimum effort. I found the Fiskar's easy to control.
> View attachment 383594
> 
> 
> The Council Tool maul tended to bounce off the wood on occasion. When It did penetrate, it would stick and needed to be pried free. It required a bit more effort to open a crack, even working inward, but once the splits started, it was fairly easy to finish off the entire round.
> 
> View attachment 383605
> 
> 
> View attachment 383608
> 
> 
> View attachment 383610
> 
> 
> I'm not planning to be a full time split by hand kinda guy - heck, I'm getting old - but I am enjoying splitting a couple or three rounds in the early morning as a kick-start to the day. It's a great workout and gets the cardio going. All in all, I favored the Fiskar's for what I do. But the Council Tool will probably come with me in the truck to split up (with a wedge) the bigger rounds we've been cutting lately. It's a well made tool, and I do like the feel of the hickory handle. The head seems to be harder then the Fiskar's, and would probably hold up better to heavy abuse.
> 
> I didn't mention my old RockForge Home Depot splitting axe. It gets used every day.... to hold the tarp in place over my uglies box!


Tips
Wrap the log or the logs with a bungee cord attached chain.I use two of these, one with a 6' chain, and one with a 9' chain....
Here is the 9' chain...
If the chain is long enough to wrap around the entire log or bundle of logs, the end piece can be used to protect the bungee, just in case the dinner call is made in your back swing....












Since I always try top hit just inside the bark at 12 o'clock on the log face.
When hitting pre-split quarters and halves, I use the 6' chain and I keep the bungee cord on the inside


----------



## AKKAMAAN

dancan said:


> I guess I should have done a bit of a review on that NOS HultsBruks , at 3 1/2 lbs and being very thin bit it's more of a felling axe but when you have some dry fairly straight grained wood I find that this excels at splitting kindling , it's hard to explain why but I find that db's balance out perfectly when you have it held just under the head and the splits pop apart effortlessly .
> Here's a vid showing and explaining .
> 
> 
> 
> That's not me if you're wondering LOL



+1
I've always used and liked that technique for my red cedar kindling. Great video and you are spot on with the pros with a little heavier axe. I can actually use a 2 lbs Fiskars hatchet. Just gotta keep it "razor" blade sharp...
It is a very safe technique, as long as you are not swinging, but just pointing the head at the stick, lift and drop, using the inertia of the axe head...


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Ambull01 said:


> What does it matter the size of your splitting block?


It is the stiffness from mass and inertia in the chopping block that makes the difference.
Put an old 8" thick matrass under a 10" diameter chopping block vs a 20" diameter, and try to split a log on top of them. Which chopping block do you think will be most efficient?
When splitting on your concrete driveway the concrete will provide enough stiffness, mass and inertia. I always try to have at least the same or more diameter on the chopping block. 
But when splitting really large rounds, the round itself will probably provide enough inertia to be split directly on the 8" mattress...


----------



## Ambull01

AKKAMAAN said:


> +1
> I've always used and liked that technique for my red cedar kindling. Great video and you are spot on with the pros with a little heavier axe. I can actually use a 2 lbs Fiskars hatchet. Just gotta keep it "razor" blade sharp...
> It is a very safe technique, as long as you are not swinging, but just pointing the head at the stick, lift and drop, using the inertia of the axe head...



You're on the hearth site too right?


----------



## AKKAMAAN

zogger said:


> I got one and it has never worked for me. When you roll your edge across it, do the wheel things roll, or do they stay put?


@zogger are you referring to one of the kitchen sharpeners?
Anyway, when you remove these two red indicator wheels, this sharpener works a well as the one with a rolling stone...





By the way, the rolling stone sharpener can be found at IKEA for $halfprice...
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/57145296/#





compared to Fiskars Original...
http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Axe-a...09092&sr=8-1&keywords=fiskars+knife+sharpener


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Ambull01 said:


> You're on the hearth site too right?


Yes, but I like it better here. Left AS when hacking started, joined heart a while ago, but there is nothing like AS. So much more serious and knowledgable people. Working my way through this thread, about halfway now. This is a good thread...
4-5 years ago we had a Fiskars thread here that had like 300 posts...But on that one I was in from the beginning...


----------



## Ambull01

AKKAMAAN said:


> Yes, but I like it better here. Left AS when hacking started, joined heart a while ago, but there is nothing like AS. So much more serious and knowledgable people. Working my way through this thread, about halfway now. This is a good thread...
> 4-5 years ago we had a Fiskars thread here that had like 300 posts...But on that one I was in from the beginning...



More serious here? No way. I like both sites. Hearth for stove related info and this site for everything else.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

dancan said:


> After watching Benp's video I realised I've been doing it wrong LOL
> I did find this video while surfing Utube .
> 10 minutes long but the older chap sure gets it done all by hand from felling to splitting with an X25.
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting to see what he does with the birch that he doesn't split .



The birch bark is one of the most amazing wood materials there is. Leaving the bark all around a log, will contain all the water and moist in the log, and it will slowly start rotting from inside. By shaving like this, there is no need to split the smaller diameter rounds. The will season through these shaved areas...
I would believe this applies on most tree spieces...


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Ambull01 said:


> More serious here? No way. I like both sites. Hearth for stove related info and this site for everything else.


Have no need for the stove info. Vested in a $5000 wood stove 5 years ago...


----------



## Marshy

AKKAMAAN said:


> Have no need for the stove info. Vested in a $5000 wood stove 5 years ago...


What stove did you get?


----------



## zogger

AKKAMAAN said:


> @zogger are you referring to one of the kitchen sharpeners?
> Anyway, when you remove these two red indicator wheels, this sharpener works a well as the one with a rolling stone...
> 
> 
> View attachment 423205
> View attachment 423204
> 
> By the way, the rolling stone sharpener can be found at IKEA for $halfprice...
> http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/57145296/#
> 
> 
> 
> 
> compared to Fiskars Original...
> http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Axe-a...09092&sr=8-1&keywords=fiskars+knife+sharpener



Yes, I have one of the originals like in the bottom picture, I'll have to look for those little pieces to take out. I tried that thing every which way I could think up, nothing.


edit: oops, chefs choice in your pic, a different sharpener


----------



## AKKAMAAN

hamish said:


> Do you have a copy that we can enlarge so I can read the darn thing? With many of the different head designs I could re-name them again for the regional styles here in Canada. Many of those head are known by much different names up here.


Here you go...
https://www.google.com/search?q=typ...a=X&ei=ZYVLVb_SEsP2oASPjICgAw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Marshy said:


> What stove did you get?


http://www.hearthstonestoves.com/store/wood-products/wood-stoves/lima


----------



## AKKAMAAN

zogger said:


> edit: oops, chefs choice in your pic, a different sharpener


Yes, each sharpener has two angled fixed stones, #1 Super fine and #2 Ultra fine


----------



## cali6construction9

SteveSS said:


> It dries faster that way.


Thought that's all it was I just figured he'd take more off if that's what it was

stihl 026 husky 300xp mac 610 efco 132s craftsman 170 mac 1635


----------



## svk

AKKAMAAN said:


> Yes, but I like it better here. Left AS when hacking started, joined heart a while ago, but there is nothing like AS. So much more serious and knowledgable people. Working my way through this thread, about halfway now. This is a good thread...
> 4-5 years ago we had a Fiskars thread here that had like 300 posts...But on that one I was in from the beginning...


Found it for ya


----------



## dancan

AKKAMAAN said:


> The birch bark is one of the most amazing wood materials there is. Leaving the bark all around a log, will contain all the water and moist in the log, and it will slowly start rotting from inside. By shaving like this, there is no need to split the smaller diameter rounds. The will season through these shaved areas...
> I would believe this applies on most tree spieces...



I always break the bark on any birch I cut , even down to Zogger sized wood , mostly by scoring a line with a chainsaw along the length if I'm not gonna split it , finding that video was just another reason for me to continue the practice 
Birch bark , awesome firestarter material , burns like gasoline .
I still find that making kindling with a db is the fastest and most efficient for me .
Welcome back AKKAMAAN , I'd like to see a thread on that stove of yours with some pics


----------



## Ronaldo

dancan said:


> I always break the bark on any birch I cut , even down to Zogger sized wood , mostly by scoring a line with a chainsaw along the length if I'm not gonna split it , finding that video was just another reason for me to continue the practice
> Birch bark , awesome firestarter material , burns like gasoline .
> I still find that making kindling with a db is the fastest and most efficient for me .
> Welcome back AKKAMAAN , I'd like to see a thread on that stove of yours with some pics


I'd like to know more about the stove, too. Very unique!


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Ronaldo said:


> I'd like to know more about the stove, too. Very unique!


I remodelled my livingroom 5 years ago, and ripped out the old recessed brick frame with a free standing iron wood stove.
Took the wall down and expanded a dining area into part of the double garage about 120 sqft. 
I wanted a double sided free standing wood stove at the same position as the old stove was. But the double sided ones were so high BTU, so they required 8" chimney. I already had a 6" chimney tube through the roof, and I didn't want to mess with changing that. The only option was to buy a cylindric stove the could swivel while burning. That way I could get "atmosphere" fire both in the living room and the dining area depending on where we are at the moment. Up to 16" logs have to stand upright vertically, and smaller 10"-12" logs can be feed horizontally.
My stove is not exactly the same as on the link I posted. I have sides of soapstone, and a thick top of soap stone.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Here are some shots on my stove...




stove rotated


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Finally found my wood stove online...
http://armstrongsstovespa.com/stoves/wood/hearthstone-bari-8170/


----------



## benp

I love the looks of those cylinder stoves!!!!!


----------



## Ronaldo

AKKAMAAN said:


> Here are some shots on my stove...
> View attachment 423294
> 
> View attachment 423295
> 
> stove rotated
> View attachment 423296
> 
> View attachment 423297


Man, that is a neat stove. Very nice, I like the look and being able to swivel it! Does it hold a fire overnight? It appears to be a fairly small firebox.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

benp said:


> I love the looks of those cylinder stoves!!!!!


There is a lot of them available...
https://www.google.com/search?q=rot...e=univ&ei=ridMVd-LHo_0oASaz4GQCg&ved=0CDcQsAQ


----------



## benp

AKKAMAAN said:


> There is a lot of them available...
> https://www.google.com/search?q=rot...e=univ&ei=ridMVd-LHo_0oASaz4GQCg&ved=0CDcQsAQ



Yep!

When I was kicking around the idea of a stove for my gardener's hovel I was looking at the cylinder/vertical stoves.

They all seemed to have a small footprint and be hyper efficient which is what I was looking for.


----------



## zogger

benp said:


> Yep!
> 
> When I was kicking around the idea of a stove for my gardener's hovel I was looking at the cylinder/vertical stoves.
> 
> They all seemed to have a small footprint and be hyper efficient which is what I was looking for.



Looks like the size of one of those stubby vertical propane tanks, like 100 lbers?? Something like that size. Could be a start on making one for relatively cheap.


----------



## svk

My local Walmart finally put out their rather paltry spread of axes. The one original style orange and black Fiskars was pretty dirty and looked like it had been sitting in old stock for some time. I did like the feel of the newer long handled chopping axe. 

This was the first time I had handled one of the all black axes. Identical in every way except for the lack of a rubberized grip and a cheaper cover. All of the Fiskars had a very sharp factor edge.


----------



## Ryan Groat

I need a new maul, I have broke 2 cheap ones in 3 weeks. They have warrantied them, but I just returned the last one. 

I have been looking at the Stihl Pro series mauls and splitting axe. I think I am going to go with maul because occasionally I use splitting wedges. I can get either for $80.00 because of a Stihl coupon. Any comments on either.

And before it is mentioned, yes I own a Fiskars X27. But I cannot drive wedges with it and sometimes it is just too light for some of the logs.


----------



## gunnusmc03

I have the pa80, just couldn't warm up to it.


----------



## Ryan Groat

gunnusmc03 said:


> I have the pa80, just couldn't warm up to it.



What dont you like?


----------



## Ryan Groat

Well I end up with the Pro Splitting Maul. So far I really like it. I split for 30 minutes or so with it along with my Fiskars and can see how they both will play a role. It feels really good in the hands and you can tell it is a quality tool. 

Having the $20 manufacture coupon definitely helped me make the decision to drop the coin on a nice maul.


----------



## Ronaldo

Is that the PA 80 or PA50?


----------



## Ryan Groat

PA80


----------



## Ronaldo

Cool. They look great if the handle will hold up.


----------



## Ryan Groat

I think it should. Only time will tell. It's main job will be pounding wedges while I'm out scrounging.


----------



## Raganr

Well, completed my GB overhaul of my splitting tools. They are almost too purdy to use, but I will.

Previous set served me well and I plan to keep them around.


----------



## Ryan Groat

Raganr said:


> Well, completed my GB overhaul of my splitting tools. They are almost too purdy to use, but I will.
> 
> Previous set served me well and I plan to keep them around.



What an awesome set!


----------



## svk

Looks nice. Throw that x27 away in my trash can


----------



## Raganr

The X27 still has a place. That thing is a work horse. Still may pick up a smaller Fiskars to play around with. I think they are a great value.


----------



## Ryan Groat

Bought this double bit at a garage sale camping. It's rusty but seems to work well. I'm going to try and clean it up once I get home.


----------



## svk

Trying to decide which axe is coming canoe camping this weekend. I usually chose the axe on the far left to save on weight but it's almost worthless for splitting due to lack of mass. Second from left was given to a friend who needed an axe. So I may go to #3 from left as it's still light but a little heavier than #1. 

I'd ponder buying a Fiskars chopping axe but since you can't actually cut trees down where I'm headed the axe is only used for splitting scrounge.


----------



## Philbert

The Estwing used to be the classic canoe camping axe. The unbreakable handle was a big feature, though, I have watched guys try to whittle a replacement handle for a conventional axe out of a tree limb on canoe trips.

Philbert


----------



## svk

The lake I camp on used to have a logging dam that went out in the 80's and dropped the water level by a few feet. Since the lake is primarily cedar there's tons of stuff washed up at the old water level that is bone dry but still solid. Just need to buck and split.

I've really put the coals to that lightweight axe but it's almost unbreakable because the head has so little mass. It's actually an old double bit cut down and slimmed for the purpose of being a traveler style.


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> The Estwing used to be the classic canoe camping axe. The unbreakable handle was a big feature, though, I have watched guys try to whittle a replacement handle for a conventional axe out of a tree limb on canoe trips.
> 
> Philbert


Pretty fair prices on those Estwing axes for what you are getting.


----------



## svk

3rd from the left is in the pack. Will report on performance upon my return.


----------



## Soupy944

Raganr said:


> Well, completed my GB overhaul of my splitting tools. They are almost too purdy to use, but I will.
> 
> Previous set served me well and I plan to keep them around.


I use the leveraxe 1 for splitting. (craigslist for 200 almost new). For camping, I love my GB small forest axe. i also have a small husqvarna hatchet for smaller stuff. Is that the small splitting axe next to your 410? How do you like it?


----------



## Ryan'smilling

Raganr said:


> Well, completed my GB overhaul of my splitting tools. They are almost too purdy to use, but I will.
> 
> Previous set served me well and I plan to keep them around.



I love my Gransfors Bruks splitting maul. I was really skeptical when a friend of mine bought one; I thought it was a huge waste of money. Then I split 6 cords with his. Next thing you know I had to get one of my own. It's a joy to use every time I pick it up. I've probably split 60-80 cords with mine now, and its held up great. Wood handles are definitely my preference, and the metal collar makes it hold up really. If it weren't for that feature, no one else would ever get to try it. Hope yours is every bit as great as mine has proved to be.


----------



## svk

Well @Philbert you jinxed me with talk of those unbreakable Estwings. 

Split up enough wood to last for my 5 day trip on the first day and decided to make a bench on the second day. Broke the head off the traveler axe about 1/4 way into the log. As you can see by the picture the main damage was done prior to my use but was not visible as it was cracked inside the head. 

Fortunately I had more than enough wood for the trip. 

This axe did work really well while it worked. Much better performance than my other lightweight axe. 

Caught some fish but funky weather slowed them down compared to normal. 









Back in my shed I happened to have a standard axe with a rather loose handle so I slipped the standard head off and fitted this head on. I'll pick up a longer 36" felling handle for that other head. Good as new


----------



## Raganr

Soupy944 said:


> I use the leveraxe 1 for splitting. (craigslist for 200 almost new). For camping, I love my GB small forest axe. i also have a small husqvarna hatchet for smaller stuff. Is that the small splitting axe next to your 410? How do you like it?



Yes, it is a small splitting axe. I wanted the splitting hatchet but could not find one in stock anywhere. I dont have much time with it but so far, it seems like it should work fine one handed. Does do a better job than my Estwing fireside pal. Its mostly used to split 4" cookies for smoking/cooking.

Maul, Scandinavian Forest Axe, Small Splitting Axe, Wildlife Hatchet.


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> Well @Philbert you jinxed me with talk of those unbreakable Estwings.


Was not my intent to put a hex on you.

But if I _enabled_ you to buy one more axe . . . . well, that's the whole point of this forum, right? I keep my eyes open for one at garage/estate sales, etc.

I just used my Fiskars chopping axe for a few days doing storm clean up work in the Brainerd area. I really like that axe for that type of work: limbing, driving bucking wedges, limited chopping, etc. For example, some guys I was working near had made multiple, '_other than textbook_' face cuts and back cuts in a hung up tree, and I was able to clean some of those out with my axe, to see what was going on, without risking a bar and chain (or whole saw!).

Would be proud to own and use most of those axes you displayed as well. But sometimes, in some situations, you also need some things that will stand up to a little abuse.

Philbert


----------



## USMC615

Ryan Groat said:


> What an awesome set!


Nice assortment Ryan.


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> Was not my intent to put a hex on you.
> 
> But if I _enabled_ you to buy one more axe . . . . well, that's the whole point of this forum, right? I keep my eyes open for one at garage/estate sales, etc.
> 
> I just used my Fiskars chopping axe for a few days doing storm clean up work in the Brainerd area. I really like that axe for that type of work: limbing, driving bucking wedges, limited chopping, etc. For example, some guys I was working near had made multiple, '_other than textbook_' face cuts and back cuts in a hung up tree, and I was able to clean some of those out with my axe, to see what was going on, without risking a bar and chain (or whole saw!).
> 
> Would be proud to own and use most of those axes you displayed as well. But sometimes, in some situations, you also need some things that will stand up to a little abuse.
> 
> Philbert


Which Fiskars chopping axe model do you have?

Being half of the load bearing wood in that handle was long gone, I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did.


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> Which Fiskars chopping axe model do you have?


There are no model numbers on them (2). But they have a chopping shaped head, instead of a splitting head. I have had them for several years.

Philbert


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> Which Fiskars chopping axe model do you have?



Fiskars models and names have changed through the years. The chopping axes I have did not have model numbers on them, nor did the my splitting axe (although, I am sure that they had model numbers when manufactured). Took some photos just for you - you can see quite a bit of difference.

I also made some use comparisons in this thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars-28-and-36-side-by-side-comaprison.170817/



Chopping axe, X25 precursor, X27



X27, X25 precursor, Chopping axe

Philbert


----------



## svk

Looks like your wood grain is holding up pretty well


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> Looks like your wood grain is holding up pretty well


Yeah, I should buy a Granfor axe and paint the handle carbon black to see if that increases vibration . . .

Philbert


----------



## svk

Lol!

Seems the "Fiskars sux" crowd has gone noticeably silent around here these days. Their ringleader hasn't been heard from in months.


----------



## zogger

svk said:


> Lol!
> 
> Seems the "Fiskars sux" crowd has gone noticeably silent around here these days. Their ringleader hasn't been heard from in months.



Well..I don't care, don't like it when long time members disappear.

No way in heck we'll all agree on everything, or all cut as much as others. I mean, sometimes I feel silly, I have cut so seldom the last 3/4 of a year.


----------



## Philbert

Tried the original LeverAxe briefly today at the Dodgegeeks GTG. It split the wood, but I don't see any real advantage to it over other tools.

One good thing, is that they color coordinate with the Fiskars.

Philbert


----------



## zogger

Philbert said:


> Tried the original LeverAxe briefly today at the Dodgegeeks GTG. It split the wood, but I don't see any real advantage to it over other tools.
> 
> One good thing, is that they color coordinate with the Fiskars.
> 
> Philbert
> 
> View attachment 436405



Were you getting a good spin on the handle once it hit? Pretty precise timing needed there.


----------



## Philbert

zogger said:


> Were you getting a good spin on the handle once it hit? Pretty precise timing needed there.


Didn't try it that much Zog.

Philbert


----------



## svk

For the next portion of my travels I'm renting a cabin in the Adirondacks from a friend of a friend. I located an old broken axe that I'm going to rehang for the owner to use. 

With no drills at my disposal I figured I would use the method that a few folks on here recommended and burn the eye out. Put it in a bed of coals last night with the cutting edge away from the center. 





The wood inside the eye burned a little bit around the edges but was still solid.



Heading to Home Depot for a new handle this afternoon.


----------



## zogger

Ain't it funny. With wood handles, if you want them to stay tight, you need to hoop jump and soak, wedge, re soak, all sorts of things, but want to get the handle out..stuck on solid. It's a conspiracy I tell ya!


----------



## svk

Back to life!


----------



## Soupy944

lookin good!


----------



## benp

This is why Ben doesn't have nice stuff. At least I recognize that....lol





I felt a thunk through the handle, went no sh!t, and laughed. 

This happens to me all the time and this is what broke the handle on the Council maul. 

When I pulled the Fiskars out, the piece of red oak that the handle was resting on was pushed down on the corner.


----------



## zogger

benp said:


> This is why Ben doesn't have nice stuff. At least I recognize that....lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt a thunk through the handle, went no sh!t, and laughed.
> 
> This happens to me all the time and this is what broke the handle on the Council maul.
> 
> When I pulled the Fiskars out, the piece of red oak that the handle was resting on was pushed down on the corner.


You need one of those 30 lb mauls that one kid here had. What happen to that guy anyway?


----------



## Philbert

Wilton B.A.S.H. Splitting Mauls are on sale right now at Bailey's for about 40% off. Good time to try them if you were interested.




http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...-S-H-Splitting-Maul---8-lb-Head-30-Handle.axd
http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...-S-H-Splitting-Maul---6-lb-Head-30-Handle.axd

Philbert


----------



## zogger

Philbert said:


> Wilton B.A.S.H. Splitting Mauls are on sale right now at Bailey's for about 40% off. Good time to try them if you were interested.
> 
> View attachment 440696
> 
> 
> http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...-S-H-Splitting-Maul---8-lb-Head-30-Handle.axd
> http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...-S-H-Splitting-Maul---6-lb-Head-30-Handle.axd
> 
> Philbert



close to half off is good


----------



## Marine5068

Sales on wood tools are always on my radar.
I still use my trusted and true Black Knight axe for most splitting axe work and the old Stanley maul for harder hits and to knock big cracks into larger rounds that I sometimes need to wedge in halves or quarters in order to get them started.


svk said:


> For the next portion of my travels I'm renting a cabin in the Adirondacks from a friend of a friend. I located an old broken axe that I'm going to rehang for the owner to use.
> 
> With no drills at my disposal I figured I would use the method that a few folks on here recommended and burn the eye out. Put it in a bed of coals last night with the cutting edge away from the center.
> 
> View attachment 437988
> View attachment 437989
> 
> 
> The wood inside the eye burned a little bit around the edges but was still solid.
> View attachment 437990
> 
> 
> Heading to Home Depot for a new handle this afternoon.


Your a good man to do that for him.
Adirondacks are just across the lake from me, more or less.


----------



## Marine5068

Well, I better get out there and split the Poplar I have to start bagging it for camp fire wood before the camping season is over.
Happy cutting fellas.


----------



## Philbert

$37 (axe) and $45 (X27) at an area Wally World . . . (if you can find a price . . .)

Philbert


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> $37 (axe) and $45 (X27) at an area Wally World . . . (if you can find a price . . .)
> 
> Philbert
> View attachment 441550


Which store?


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> Which store?


West Saint Paul - Robert Street

Philbert


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> West Saint Paul - Robert Street
> 
> Philbert


How much stock do they have? Enough to last a few days?


----------



## Philbert

Philbert


----------



## benp

Philbert said:


> View attachment 441764
> 
> Philbert



I was just going to post that. I saw the email about it this morning


----------



## Marine5068

Hope you all got some good deals on splitting tools.
I'll have to try one of those Fiskars one day.
Im still using old Blackie (True Temper) and Stanley maul.


----------



## Marine5068

No sooner did I get all my Poplar split and bagged and advertised on Kijiji, and one guy came and bought 5 bags for a party and then today the other 50 bags were taken by another guy.
All gone now and a little change in my pocket.
I may just have to try that again. Lord knows I have a lot of pellet bags every year and I can scrounge all the Poplar, White Birch, Spruce and Pine I want around here.


----------



## Philbert

Not sure if this includes the splitting mauls . . . .

Philbert




*B.A.S.H $1000 Guarantee*

_WILTON B.A.S.H® Striking Tools with Unbreakable® Handle Technology are quite simply the most durable on the market, outperforming wood and fiberglass handled hammers strike after strike. We are so confident in the WILTON B.A.S.H®Unbreakable® Handle Technology that for 2 full years after purchase, break the handle under normal wear and tear and receive $1,000.

JPW Industries will pay you $1,000 in cash if the handle of a B.A.S.H® hammer you own breaks (severs) during normal use within two years after the date of purchase. This payment is in lieu of any other remedy for a product defect you may have, including breach of any other express or implied warranties. The B.A.S.H® $1,000 Guarantee does not apply to breakage that results from use of the hammer other than as a hand-held striking tool, nor to defects involving the hammer head, including but not limited to, separation of the head from the handle or head breaking.
_
*How to Make a Claim*
_The hammer must be returned for examination, postage prepaid, to a location designated by us. For the name of the location nearest you, please call 1-800-274-6848. You must provide proof of initial purchase date, and an explanation of how the handle broke must accompany the merchandise. If we determine you are covered by the Unbreakable® Handle Guarantee, we will send you $1,000. If our inspection discloses a defect but you are not covered by the B.A.S.H® $1,000 Guarantee, we will repair or replace the product, or refund the purchase price, at our option, in accordance with our standard limited warranty above._


----------



## benp

Philbert said:


> Not sure if this includes the splitting mauls . . . .
> 
> Philbert
> 
> View attachment 442175
> 
> 
> *B.A.S.H $1000 Guarantee*
> 
> WILTON B.A.S.H® Striking Tools with Unbreakable® Handle Technology are quite simply the most durable on the market, outperforming wood and fiberglass handled hammers strike after strike. We are so confident in the WILTON B.A.S.H®Unbreakable® Handle Technology that for 2 full years after purchase, break the handle under normal wear and tear and receive $1,000.
> 
> JPW Industries will pay you $1,000 in cash if the handle of a B.A.S.H® hammer you own breaks (severs) during normal use within two years after the date of purchase. This payment is in lieu of any other remedy for a product defect you may have, including breach of any other express or implied warranties. The B.A.S.H® $1,000 Guarantee does not apply to breakage that results from use of the hammer other than as a hand-held striking tool, nor to defects involving the hammer head, including but not limited to, separation of the head from the handle or head breaking.
> 
> *How to Make a Claim*
> The hammer must be returned for examination, postage prepaid, to a location designated by us. For the name of the location nearest you, please call 1-800-274-6848. You must provide proof of initial purchase date, and an explanation of how the handle broke must accompany the merchandise. If we determine you are covered by the Unbreakable® Handle Guarantee, we will send you $1,000. If our inspection discloses a defect but you are not covered by the B.A.S.H® $1,000 Guarantee, we will repair or replace the product, or refund the purchase price, at our option, in accordance with our standard limited warranty above.




Yep. It does.

I'm checking out their website now.....

ETA - Hmmmmmm......Looks like this thing has mixed reviews. Although having to redo the edge that it comes with and not real good customer service from Wilton seems common.


----------



## svk

benp said:


> Yep. It does.
> 
> I'm checking out their website now.....
> 
> ETA - Hmmmmmm......Looks like this thing has mixed reviews. Although having to redo the edge that it comes with and not real good customer service from Wilton seems common.


Would altering the edge void the warranty? Would think not but you never know.


----------



## svk

Has anybody else tried the new husky splitting axes with the composite handle yet?


----------



## svk

With a lack of opinions available on here, I ordered a Husqvarna S2800 last night. I have a few cords to do this fall so will report performance vs both Fiskars and traditional tools.


----------



## benp

svk said:


> Has anybody else tried the new husky splitting axes with the composite handle yet?



@mdavlee has a youtube video of him demonstrating how well it does.

Maybe he will chime in. From what I remember, he really likes it.



I contacted Gardena (The turquoise model) about having a 36" model and they said that one was not in the near future. Serious bummer. I could care less if it was turquoise or orange I just want a 36".

I can't see you not liking it. Congrats on the purchase and keep us posted.


----------



## Philbert

Invented by a young girl in New Zealand, as I recall. 





Axe on the bottom. 

Philbert


----------



## benp

Here's a video of it.


----------



## svk

That's shown itself here a few times. I think consensus is it won't hold up unless you are using straight grained softwood.


----------



## dancan

My kindlin kracker LOL


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> That's shown itself here a few times. I think consensus is it won't hold up unless you are using straight grained softwood.


But the idea has merit. It is taking the debate about wedges on log splitters (mounted on end of cylinder or end of beam) to manual splitting.
How about a beefed up, and scaled up version, say for green rounds up to 16 inches diameter? Line it up, and you know where your split will be. Of course it will not work with all wood, or with crotches, etc.

Philbert

(PS - posted it 'cause it was displayed at the State Fair. NT claimed to have exclusive US distribution rights).


----------



## svk

Well my Husky S2800 has been sitting at my house since yesterday morning and I won't get to use it until at least Saturday. Anxious to see if preliminary reports are repeatable.


----------



## CaseyForrest

Baileys had these on their Labor Day sale, so I figured Id pull the pin...

http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...9-Wood-Splitting-Maul-Professional-Big-Ox.axd

http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...ck-Rotband-Plus-with-Hickory-Handle-80-cm.axd


----------



## svk

I really like the looks of the Big Ox. Debating that or a European fiskars after I'm done testing the S2800


----------



## Ronaldo

CaseyForrest said:


> Baileys had these on their Labor Day sale, so I figured Id pull the pin...
> 
> http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...9-Wood-Splitting-Maul-Professional-Big-Ox.axd
> 
> http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...ck-Rotband-Plus-with-Hickory-Handle-80-cm.axd


I am feeling some splitting tool envy over here. 
Waiting to hear a report on the s2800, too.


----------



## svk

Ronaldo said:


> I am feeling some splitting tool envy over here.
> Waiting to hear a report on the s2800, too.


http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/husqvarna-s2800-splitting-axe-first-impressions.285469


----------



## CaseyForrest

CaseyForrest said:


> Baileys had these on their Labor Day sale, so I figured Id pull the pin...
> 
> http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...9-Wood-Splitting-Maul-Professional-Big-Ox.axd
> 
> http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...ck-Rotband-Plus-with-Hickory-Handle-80-cm.axd



Murphy never fails to let me down.

Today I scored what I think is a good deal on a splitter off Craigslist.


----------



## benp

I was in the Fleet store today and moseyed over to the splitting tool section. 

Truper Mauls. 

I tell you what. For the price, $23 or so, those are not half bad. 

I went through 10 6 pounders and 10 8 pounders. 

All had good even grinds and decent grains in the handle with little to no heartwood. 

I would of taken pictures but the other guy in the aisle was already looking at me like "where is your adult supervision" as I was rifling through them.


----------



## zogger

benp said:


> I was in the Fleet store today and moseyed over to the splitting tool section.
> 
> Truper Mauls.
> 
> I tell you what. For the price, $23 or so, those are not half bad.
> 
> I went through 10 6 pounders and 10 8 pounders.
> 
> All had good even grinds and decent grains in the handle with little to no heartwood.
> 
> I would of taken pictures but the other guy in the aisle was already looking at me like "where is your adult supervision" as I was rifling through them.



Mine is ten years old now, got it when we moved in and I had to switch to mass quantities splitting. I still use it quite a bit, whenever I am splitting on the ground and no chopping block. Yes, a good deal for the money. I can't swing it as long as I can a fiskars, but it gets the job done.


----------



## svk

I was at ace recently and Collins mauls were only 30 bucks! Good looking handles too.


----------



## svk

I decided to pull the trigger on the reduced priced Wilton BASH maul from Bailey's and chose the 6lb version. Called to see if we could tack it on to my previous order but it was already packed so they offered the ship it for free. That's good customer service if you ask me.

Also I picked up an all black Fiskars Chopping axe (x15 clone) from my local Ace the other day. FWIW it doesn't seem slippery at all with the molded handle but I have hockey tape on hand if it does.

Cant wait to get into the woods this fall to try out the new toys!


----------



## Ronaldo

Those X15's be wicked sharp and I didn't notice any slipping problems with mine, either.


----------



## Philbert

Ronaldo said:


> . . .I didn't notice any slipping problems with mine, either.View attachment 447710


Wrap hockey tape on the handle if slippery.
(Or, until the first pine tree . . . . )

Philbert


----------



## Ryan Groat

svk said:


> I really like the looks of the Big Ox. Debating that or a European fiskars after I'm done testing the S2800


What exactly is a European fiskars?


----------



## svk

Ryan Groat said:


> What exactly is a European fiskars?


They offer several actual splitting mauls for sale in Europe. Similar head to the X27 but much more mass behind it.


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> Similar head to the X27 but much more mass behind it.



_With great power comes great responsibility . . .
_
Philbert


----------



## Dalmatian90

Over the last 9 or so cords split by Fiskars Super Splitter, I've built up a pile of 'bout 1/2 cord of uglies that either defied Fiskarization or I knew better than to try.

Not all of them look like they require noodling though...

So this fellow followed me home today -- the Stihl Pro Splitting Maul (which best I can figure out is the same head as a PA-80, but substitutes a hickory handle with steel collar in place of the lower-cost ash handle of the PA-80).

Two of the three pieces I pulled off the uglies pile responded positively. One continued to mock me. Was just a quick test since I was still dressed for work, but looks like it will reduce the amount of needed noodling appreciably.

I will be wrapping the top the handle / collar with hockey stick tape before I use it anymore..."overstrike" is a common event with me, especially with infrequently used tools.

It also stuck pretty hard a couple times. I might give the head a polishing with some fine, wet sandpaper to see if it helps it slip out easier.

The first piece shows previous resistance to the Fiskars:













This one I just sized up and said it wasn't worth trying with the Fiskars. Maybe if it was 10 degrees out I would've tried it, but I don't feel like waiting.


----------



## Philbert

Dalmatian90 said:


> Two of the three pieces I pulled off the uglies pile responded positively. One continued to mock me.


Wrong size tire maybe? Try it again with bias ply.

Philbert


----------



## Ronaldo

Nice tools. Looks like you have some time on that Fiskars by the way the orange paint is rubbed off on the handle! Is that the original Super Split? 
Doesn't look like it has the flare on the end of the handle that the x 25/27 has.


----------



## Dalmatian90

Yep, she's an original Super Split. Educated guess is about 40 cords split so far.


----------



## benp

svk said:


> I decided to pull the trigger on the reduced priced Wilton BASH maul from Bailey's and chose the 6lb version. Called to see if we could tack it on to my previous order but it was already packed so they offered the ship it for free. That's good customer service if you ask me.
> 
> Also I picked up an all black Fiskars Chopping axe (x15 clone) from my local Ace the other day. FWIW it doesn't seem slippery at all with the molded handle but I have hockey tape on hand if it does.
> 
> Cant wait to get into the woods this fall to try out the new toys!



Did you get the Wilton yet? 

I checked out the Bash mauls at Acme Tools the other day. 

The reviews that said they had to PUT an edge on it were no joke. The couple 6's and 8's I checked out had NO edge. I mean round. Yes rounded off. 

Although it was an extremely quality round off job. Very uniform roundedness on all of them. 

LOL - It almost looks intentional. Just kind of a head scratcher.


----------



## svk

benp said:


> Did you get the Wilton yet?
> 
> I checked out the Bash mauls at Acme Tools the other day.
> 
> The reviews that said they had to PUT an edge on it were no joke. The couple 6's and 8's I checked out had NO edge. I mean round. Yes rounded off.
> 
> Although it was an extremely quality round off job. Very uniform roundedness on all of them.
> 
> LOL - It almost looks intentional. Just kind of a head scratcher.


I accidentally put the wrong zip code on the order and UPS shipped it to a different terminal before realizing the city and zip didn't match up. It should be here tomorrow.

I liked the shape of the Bash head so if I have to do a little grinding that's OK by me. Someone mentioned that tools are sometimes sold with a dull edge so folks don't cut themselves then sue the MFG.

Sorry but I still can't help chuckling about the anger you caused a certain member when you reworked that Council maul LOL.


----------



## benp

svk said:


> I accidentally put the wrong zip code on the order and UPS shipped it to a different terminal before realizing the city and zip didn't match up. It should be here tomorrow.
> 
> *I liked the shape of the Bash head so if I have to do a little grinding that's OK by me. Someone mentioned that tools are sometimes sold with a dull edge so folks don't cut themselves then sue the MFG.*
> 
> Sorry but I still can't help chuckling about the anger you caused a certain member when you reworked that Council maul LOL.



It will be quite a bit of grinding. I am talking about an 1/8" of roundedness you have to put an edge on. 

I hope yours winds up being the Friday/Monday one and someone said "We are puttin and edge on THIS!!!"


----------



## svk

benp said:


> It will be quite a bit of grinding. I am talking about an 1/8" of roundedness you have to put an edge on.
> 
> I hope yours winds up being the Friday/Monday one and someone said "We are puttin and edge on THIS!!!"


I'll let you know. My buddy had one of those red fiberglass handled 8# mauls that had an edge that was basically round. Good luck splitting hard maple with that one. I turned it into a usable tool although I personally think 8 lbs is too heavy to get a fast swing.


----------



## benp

svk said:


> I'll let you know. My buddy had one of those red fiberglass handled 8# mauls that had an edge *that was basically round*. Good luck splitting hard maple with that one. I turned it into a usable tool although I personally think 8 lbs is too heavy to get a fast swing.



No, I mean IS rounded off. And it's a very good uniform round off job. The round off job on the Wilton Bash Maul is waaaaaay better than the Council Mauls effort for an edge. 

If you are looking to off yourself by going to wrists...the Wilton is not the tool. 

I tried drawing blood on myself at the store somehow with those edges on the Wilton. Um NO. Not happening. 

The guy at the desk was stink eyeing me for doing that and I wasn't about to take pcitures of the edges.


----------



## svk

Lol


----------



## svk

svk said:


> Ready for action once again.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> Had to do a little extra work to get that Jersey pattern set.



Remember these two axes I re-hung for a friend last winter? Well the putz managed to break both of them in a single splitting session. Thats ok though as he's a good friend and we help each other out whenever we can. I'll put new handles on both the next time I get out his way. I may try ironworker's rope wrapping trick to help save the handles from over strikes.


----------



## Philbert

Fiskars hatchet on sale right now at Target.com, for about $19, if you are into those types of things . . .

Philbert


----------



## Ronaldo

Philbert said:


> Fiskars hatchet on sale right now at Target.com, for about $18, if you are into those types of things . . .
> 
> Philbert


I am into those kinds of things, but already have one. That is a good price...normally see them for around $25. Thanks for the info!


----------



## svk

6 lb Wilton Bash maul showed up today. 

I like to look and feel. 

There is a nicely sharpened edge that was ever so slightly rounded off, I'm assuming as a safety precaution? Won't take much on the grinder to get this one like a razor. 

Handle is shorter than I expected at around 28"


----------



## Philbert

Is there any label, marking, or instruction sheet tat says whether or not you can use the flat end to drive steel splitting wedges?

Thanks. 

Philbert


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> Is there any label, marking, or instruction sheet tat says whether or not you can use the flat end to drive steel splitting wedges?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Philbert


I'll check tomorrow. 

It's shaped very much like their sledge hammers so I'd be surprised if you couldn't.


----------



## benp

That edge looks a lot better than the ones I checked out the other day. Good deal!

Keep us updated.


----------



## zogger

svk said:


> 6 lb Wilton Bash maul showed up today.
> 
> I like to look and feel.
> 
> There is a nicely sharpened edge that was ever so slightly rounded off, I'm assuming as a safety precaution? Won't take much on the grinder to get this one like a razor.
> 
> Handle is shorter than I expected at around 28"
> View attachment 449439
> View attachment 449440
> View attachment 449441



whack o matic!


----------



## svk

Put an edge on the Wilton today. Judging by feel, I'd say the steel is definitely of higher quality than the Fiskars.


----------



## wild_man_jack

I love my fiskars x27 enough that I bought the fiskars hatchet which I admittedly have little use for. I am in the market for 160 acres of bush and swamp land to build an off the grid cabin with just a woodstove, so I'll be buying another x27 and hatchet set again for there!

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## zogger

svk said:


> Put an edge on the Wilton today. Judging by feel, I'd say the steel is definitely of higher quality than the Fiskars.
> 
> View attachment 449566



Unt now for der stoopid hooman tricks.... goofball frostback loggers up in maine got me doing this years ago...you have to hold it one handed out at arms length by the end of the handle, let is slowly down to kiss your nose, and bring it back...hahahah Up to around ..hmm..I guess 4 years ago now was the last time I could do that with my 8lb maul. Dang wussed out.... bogus... good luck, I do not want to know if there are any failures to use the appropriate cheap stunt double...


----------



## Ronaldo

svk said:


> Put an edge on the Wilton today. Judging by feel, I'd say the steel is definitely of higher quality than the Fiskars.
> 
> View attachment 449566


What did you see or feel that indicates a higher quality steel?


----------



## svk

Ronaldo said:


> What did you see or feel that indicates a higher quality steel?


Judged by how the edge reacted with the wheel, can easily tell the hardness of the steel.


----------



## benp

svk said:


> Judged by how the edge reacted with the wheel, can easily tell the hardness of the steel.




That's good to hear!!!! 

Hopefully this will turn out to be a gem in the rough especially considering the price point now. 

Can't wait to see how it does in wood.


----------



## MechanicMatt

Steve, I made another believer in the Fiskars today. I was splitting a bunch of ash and locust I got off some of my pops property and let one of my cutting buddies use my Fiskars. His response was, ehh to light. He then went to use his yellow handled maul and when he found a round he couldn't handle I split it with the fiskars. He couldn't believe it, I explained they you have to get use to how to split with them, gave him a few pointers and told him to try again. I couldn't get it out of his hands the rest of the afternoon. He's only 24 and is built like a tough farm boy, I just sat back and let him go to town on my pile. He told me he was going to find one on amazon tonight. Hahahahahahahaha


----------



## svk

benp said:


> That's good to hear!!!!
> 
> Hopefully this will turn out to be a gem in the rough especially considering the price point now.
> 
> Can't wait to see how it does in wood.


First quarry will be some 30" willow. I know smaller willow isn't that tough but busting up the rounds should be a good test.


----------



## MechanicMatt

Steve, I have a Wilton sledge with a 6lb head and 24in long handle, it was nice cause it fit in my tool box at work. After 10 years of abuse that handle has never flinched. Ive loaned it to every body ive ever worked with and seen it beat countless ball joint out, rotors stuck on the hub, wheels stuck on hubs. Everything you could throw at it, it never hiccuped, you'll probably like your new toy, but I still drink the F brand cool aid. I think the only other splitter Ill ever want will have a hydraulic pump attached to it and a spiffy lever. Ive been trying to buy one for a while. Came close once, drove a hour to meet a guy and he never showed, PISSED ME RIGHT OFF! But I deg-res, good luck with your new tool, those handles really are UNBREAKABLE.


----------



## svk

Matt, picked this one up on a whim as it was only 50 bucks and got free shipping. If you look a couple pages back in the Firewood forum check out my Husky S2800 thread, that just may unseat the Fiskars as my all around tool.


----------



## Philbert

This was shared by Bailey's:



Philbert


----------



## Philbert

Similar design (with mellow jazz music):



Philbert


----------



## Philbert

No Fiskars at 'my' Walmart. 

Philbert


----------



## Jere39

Awesome morning for some wood working. I'm splitting up this nice dead Red Oak I took down a week or so ago. These rounds are about 28" here where I'm working, it was 32" at the base. I call this field dressing: splitting where I drop it. This was pretty typical. I set this round on another, then without a wasted strike, or resetting the round, I split it into 16 relatively equal splits.




I like the Fiskars x27 for size, weight, durability, and last but not least; Price. I am very fortunate, I am not splitting for time. I enjoy my time in the woods, with my partner. So, I split 4 rounds, then sit on a stump and think about life. Don't have it nearly figured out yet, so, I'll have plenty more thinking to do.
I'd love to take a couple wacks with one or another of the expensive splitting axes, but, if I were to lose this Fiskars, I'd buy another as fast as I could.

And, FWIW, I loaded up my small cart and hauled it to my stacks for seasoning:


----------



## svk

Jere39 said:


> Awesome morning for some wood working. I'm splitting up this nice dead Red Oak I took down a week or so ago. These rounds are about 28" here where I'm working, it was 32" at the base. I call this field dressing: splitting where I drop it. This was pretty typical. I set this round on another, then without a wasted strike, or resetting the round, I split it into 16 relatively equal splits.
> 
> View attachment 452006
> 
> 
> I like the Fiskars x27 for size, weight, durability, and last but not least; Price. I am very fortunate, I am not splitting for time. I enjoy my time in the woods, with my partner. So, I split 4 rounds, then sit on a stump and think about life. Don't have it nearly figured out yet, so, I'll have plenty more thinking to do.
> I'd love to take a couple wacks with one or another of the expensive splitting axes, but, if I were to lose this Fiskars, I'd buy another as fast as I could.
> 
> And, FWIW, I loaded up my small cart and hauled it to my stacks for seasoning:
> 
> View attachment 452008


New wheeler? Looks nice.


----------



## Philbert

Philbert said:


> Fiskars hatchet on sale right now at Target.com, for about $19, if you are into those types of things . . .


UPDATE - *Don't ever buy something off Target.com.* Advertised items not in stock (and maybe out of stock until Spring?), unbelievably bad customer service, and new levels of incompetence and indifference ('_wow, we really screwed up that order; no idea what is happening; maybe try canceling that order and ordering again?_')

Not what I have come to expect from Target _retail_ stores.

Anyway, this is not a complaint thread, but I felt obligated to follow up on my earlier post. No responses needed, but I apologize if I sent anyone to that site.

Philbert


----------



## Jere39

svk said:


> New wheeler? Looks nice.



No, same old 2002 Bombardier Quest 650xt. I don't really put many hours on it, because I am working so close to my house, my stacks, my driveway. But, all the hours are low-range and pulling something. I had it along side some things I was power-washing a couple weeks ago, and probably gave it a good spray. It has worked out perfectly for my little One man-One dog operation.


----------



## Philbert

Had to buy several of these for a project. Ended up buying them from two different places (long story). But I get to compare them side-by-side.



Obvious cosmetic differences include the two-color handle on one, and the black finish on the head of the other.

Other than that, it looks like cars that came down the same assembly line: one with the 'ES' trim, and one with the 'sport appearance package'. Both made in Finland.

Philbert


----------



## tla100

Picked up an old axe at a service call the other day for $5. It is an old Plumb brand. Decent head design. Pulled off the old handle. hit it with 120 grit on angle grinder. Cleaned up edge a bit. New handle and a little time. Soaked it in silicone spray. Hit a couple chunks of ash and works ok. Not prefect, but I did not spend a ton of time on it. Can shave with it.....


----------



## Philbert

Plumb good deal . . .

Philbert


----------



## svk

tla100 said:


> Picked up an old axe at a service call the other day for $5. It is an old Plumb brand. Decent head design. Pulled off the old handle. hit it with 120 grit on angle grinder. Cleaned up edge a bit. New handle and a little time. Soaked it in silicone spray. Hit a couple chunks of ash and works ok. Not prefect, but I did not spend a ton of time on it. Can shave with it.....


Looks great! I have an old plumb in my arsenal somewhere.


----------



## Ronaldo

tla100 said:


> Picked up an old axe at a service call the other day for $5. It is an old Plumb brand. Decent head design. Pulled off the old handle. hit it with 120 grit on angle grinder. Cleaned up edge a bit. New handle and a little time. Soaked it in silicone spray. Hit a couple chunks of ash and works ok. Not prefect, but I did not spend a ton of time on it. Can shave with it.....


Nice work on the restore! I have an old Plumb double that was my Grandfather's. I really like seeing these old quality tools brought back to life.


----------



## zogger

tla100 said:


> Picked up an old axe at a service call the other day for $5. It is an old Plumb brand. Decent head design. Pulled off the old handle. hit it with 120 grit on angle grinder. Cleaned up edge a bit. New handle and a little time. Soaked it in silicone spray. Hit a couple chunks of ash and works ok. Not prefect, but I did not spend a ton of time on it. Can shave with it.....


That sure cleaned up nice!


----------



## tla100

Yeah it turned out ok. Could have hit with 220 grit and up, smoothed it out a bit more, then hit it with the buffer. But, ran out of time. Need to get the polyurethane off the handle and get some boiled linseed oil on it. I think it will be ok on smaller rounds.


----------



## Philbert

This just showed up in the morning e-mails . . .





Philbert


----------



## svk

Saw that too. Looks similar to my old true temper axe.


----------



## Jere39

I may be missing something, but I haven't taken an ax into the woods for support of felling in a long time. I have a nice ax, but it's been sitting in the garage for years. Of course, if I ever do need it, I can stroll up to my garage and get it. I do carry one of the Fiskars hatchets that comes in handy for knocking off eye level branches, driving wedges, shaving off some bark, and a couple other things it gets pressed into service on.

But, I admit, I'm a small time enterprise, and have gotten well past the age of hurrying at anything.


----------



## svk

I only axe fell in non motorized areas and when I need to clear a tree from a road/trail and don't have a saw with.


----------



## svk

Made some kindling today. When the truck was 2/3 full I split the rest into fire pit sized splits. Love the smell of cedar. 

Old True Temper splitting axe was up to the task. My 8 year old did some of the smaller splits with the Fiskars chopping axe. We kept the S2800 on hand to bust up the odd knotty piece. 

I'll tell you one thing. The Fiskars chopping axe (blacked out version of the X15) splits wood far and away better than and traditional chopping axe I've ever used. It's definitely my canoe trip go-to axe going forward.


----------



## Dalmatian90




----------



## TMFARM 2009

Have I ever told you how much I like my fiskars!
Meet the trio!




i even use gerber knives.
still want a fiskars hatchet a brush axe and a set of loppers.


----------



## dancan

Am I the first on the block to get the new toy just out ?


----------



## Ronaldo

First I've seen anything of it. Details please;like how much, who makes it, etc.


----------



## Philbert

Maybe it's just a pumpkin colored costume that his Fiskars put on for Halloween ?

Philbert


----------



## dancan

No Phil , no costume on this one LOL



























I like it so far , I think it splits better that the x25 but a few more cord will tell me better , it seams to enter the wood at a better angle and the thinner bit goes in further so when it hits the flare you have a bit more momentum , the handle feels good in the hand with no vibrations that bothered me .
A little pricey up here at msrp of 109.95 .


----------



## Ronaldo

dancan said:


> No Phil , no costume on this one LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like it so far , I think it splits better that the x25 but a few more cord will tell me better , it seams to enter the wood at a better angle and the thinner bit goes in further so when it hits the flare you have a bit more momentum , the handle feels good in the hand with no vibrations that bothered me .
> A little pricey up here at msrp of 109.95 .


The angle and handle shape remind me of a Helko.http://www.helkonorthamerica.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html. Specifically the Vario series.


----------



## dancan

Sure does look like Helko , I've been looking at the webs , not been able to find someone with the same , it does say "Made in Germany"
I've looked at Meuller , Ochsenkopf and Helko with no matches .


----------



## svk

Finally got to chop down some trees with this today (X15 in black). No lie, this makes traditional chopping axes obsolete. It's that good. Even with a semi dull edge from my 8 yo helping make kindling last weekend. Previously my Hults Bruk axes were king but this one takes it to a new level. I'll definitely be looking to pick up more as they go on sale during the off season. 




Edit: I didn't think the molded handle felt at all slippery. I know some of us had our concerns when they put out the all black version.


----------



## Ronaldo

svk said:


> Finally got to chop down some trees with this today (X15 in black). No lie, this makes traditional chopping axes obsolete. It's that good. Even with a semi dull edge from my 8 yo helping make kindling last weekend. Previously my Hults Bruk axes were king but this one takes it to a new level. I'll definitely be looking to pick up more as they go on sale during the off season.
> 
> View attachment 455976
> 
> 
> Edit: I didn't think the molded handle felt at all slippery. I know some of us had our concerns when they put out the all black version.


It's like a tree sword.


----------



## svk

Ronaldo said:


> It's like a tree sword.


It's the freakin Excalibur!


----------



## TMFARM 2009

i just cannot say enough about my fiskars pro chopping axe.
same with the pro splitting axe and the maul.
phenomenal performance.
now if i can just keep my toes.


----------



## dancan

Works in knotty spruce , doesn't beat a hydro in the small stuff but in rounds 6" and up it works fine .
My daughter wanted to try it but with several overstrikes that would make you cringe with a wooden handled axe she got to quarter a split LOL






Just like the Fiskars and wooden handled axes , no vibrations when you strike a round .


----------



## benp

Awesome Dan!!!!!

I only find the Polyamide Splitting axe on the Canadian and Euro Stihl sites. 

Like I said, just like Tall Boy Black Crowns and plastic Copenhagen cans.


----------



## dancan

Hopefully "Coming soon to a store near you" LOL
I think it should be around 75$ US when you guys get them .
I think it's a bit better than the Fiskars but it just means that I now have 2 great splitters , when I have larger rounds I can tackle them from both sides .
The Wooden handled Husqvarna maul is the next one on the list .


----------



## Ronaldo

dancan, how long is the handle on the new Stihl Splitter? It appears to be about the length of an X25.


----------



## Freakingstang




----------



## Freakingstang

I've been a huge fiskar fan since 2008 or so. I"ve got the X7, X17, X27. I had the X25 first and liked it, but gave it to my brother after finding the longer handled X27... 

With that said, I bought the S2800 husky last year... split about a cord in the spring.... Split with it a ton this past two weeks. I like it a lot, just wish it had a longer handle. 

Also is the Stihl Pro splitting axe. I bought this last winter after the husky was on backorder and my fiskars was at a buddies house in another state. I like it, but it is heavy like a maul, but has a shorter handle. It tends to bounce on harder or knotted up pieces, and can get stuck fairly easy in softer woods, or green woods. the handle is BEEFY. the over strike guard is a nice feature, but its still not as effective as the fiskars or the Husky S2800. I did a short little video of the three the other day. If the husky had a 36" handle, it would be my favorite.


----------



## benp

Freakingstang said:


> I've been a huge fiskar fan since 2008 or so. I"ve got the X7, X17, X27. I had the X25 first and liked it, but gave it to my brother after finding the longer handled X27...
> 
> With that said, I bought the S2800 husky last year... split about a cord in the spring.... Split with it a ton this past two weeks. I like it a lot, just wish it had a longer handle.
> 
> Also is the Stihl Pro splitting axe. I bought this last winter after the husky was on backorder and my fiskars was at a buddies house in another state. I like it, but it is heavy like a maul, but has a shorter handle. It tends to bounce on harder or knotted up pieces, and can get stuck fairly easy in softer woods, or green woods. the handle is BEEFY. the over strike guard is a nice feature, but its still not as effective as the fiskars or the Husky S2800. I did a short little video of the three the other day. If the husky had a 36" handle, it would be my favorite.





Awesome review!!!!!!

I never realized how much smaller the Stihl was than the X27 when fondling it at the Fleet store. But your side by side comparison....holy cow. 

I'll wait for longer models of the Husky to come out. That's just too short for me.

You made a great point. If you split on a block, the shorter length is ok but not for splitting on the ground. To me it makes sense and I split all on the ground. 


Again....great review. Thanks!


----------



## Freakingstang

most people say you should split on a block. I know a good tool should not hit the dirt and a splitting block prevents than 99% of the time. For me, it is about speed. My time is limited and valuable. I don't have the time, or brute strength to pick up 2-400lb wet oak rounds to get them on the splitting block, then pick up each one as it falls off to resplit. if you are good, your axe should never hit the ground anyways...


----------



## Ronaldo

Great review---thanks! 
I split on the ground, too, for the same reasons. Dont want to handle the wood any more than I have to and too heavy to always put up on a block.


----------



## zogger

Freakingstang said:


> I've been a huge fiskar fan since 2008 or so. I"ve got the X7, X17, X27. I had the X25 first and liked it, but gave it to my brother after finding the longer handled X27...
> 
> With that said, I bought the S2800 husky last year... split about a cord in the spring.... Split with it a ton this past two weeks. I like it a lot, just wish it had a longer handle.
> 
> Also is the Stihl Pro splitting axe. I bought this last winter after the husky was on backorder and my fiskars was at a buddies house in another state. I like it, but it is heavy like a maul, but has a shorter handle. It tends to bounce on harder or knotted up pieces, and can get stuck fairly easy in softer woods, or green woods. the handle is BEEFY. the over strike guard is a nice feature, but its still not as effective as the fiskars or the Husky S2800. I did a short little video of the three the other day. If the husky had a 36" handle, it would be my favorite.




Decent review and vid! The thing with splitting large ones on the ground is, most times you need firm/hard ground. Gets muddy/soupy/spongy and productivity, mine anyway, falls off fast. That's 3/4ths of the year here. So, I tend to noodle or use the big maul or steel wedges and sledge until I can get to a piece I can pick up, or tip over, flop, to put on a block.


----------



## dancan

Ronaldo said:


> dancan, how long is the handle on the new Stihl Splitter? It appears to be about the length of an X25.



Sorry about the late reply , yes , it's the same length .
I'm 5'9" and split on the ground , the length works fine for me , I have a friend with an x27 , gonna borrow it someday so I know .
I like to put a square of plywood , 2x12 or if you look at my last pic a piece of 2x glulam under the rounds to keep my lawn or driveway safe LOL


----------



## svk

Still getting used to the short handle but the Husky S2800 really makes the job easy.


----------



## spike60

Steve, are you splitting everything on the ground or using a splitting block? If on the ground, how is the edge holding up?

What I've been telling people here in the store is that whether the Husky or the Fiskars, you are working with a sharper "more finished" edge than the typical 6-8 pound maul. So having that edge hit a block vs repeatedly hitting the ground seems like it would be better for the tool.


----------



## Freakingstang

spike60 said:


> Steve, are you splitting everything on the ground or using a splitting block? If on the ground, how is the edge holding up?
> 
> What I've been telling people here in the store is that whether the Husky or the Fiskars, you are working with a sharper "more finished" edge than the typical 6-8 pound maul. So having that edge hit a block vs repeatedly hitting the ground seems like it would be better for the tool.



Everything larger than 12" in diameter stays on the ground. The smaller stuff I will pick up. 

I'm very good and not putting the edge into the ground. It's taken years to figure it out how to be effective swinging an axe without destroying the edge putting it in the ground. 

Yesterday I worked a a bunch of outside projects. I laid my most used axes and mauls on a piece of plywood to make a template to hang them all up. When in the midst of working on the tractor and the neighbor stopping by I totally forgot about them until this morning... It rained all night...


Anyways after really thinking about it, the Husqvarna S2800 has about 6.5-7 cord under its belt this year. A cord of ash this spring and a cord of black walnut. Then all the oak we've been splitting non stop for the last three weeks. Which is almost 7 cord, but some done with the splitter (2ish) and I've used the fiskars and the Stihl some. 


I'm about firewood-ed out, but free oak is free oak and I'll continue to cut and split until my source dries up. Anyways. This edge has not been dressed or touched in anyway since I've purchased it.


----------



## Philbert

Nice assortment of splitting tools! Great way to compare.

Philbert


----------



## svk

spike60 said:


> Steve, are you splitting everything on the ground or using a splitting block? If on the ground, how is the edge holding up?
> 
> What I've been telling people here in the store is that whether the Husky or the Fiskars, you are working with a sharper "more finished" edge than the typical 6-8 pound maul. So having that edge hit a block vs repeatedly hitting the ground seems like it would be better for the tool.


Not sure which Steve you are referring to. I'm splitting on the ground and the edge is holding up much better than the Fiskars with similar use. Except for one doozie that hit a big rock when I first started using it and it blew through more quickly than I expected.


----------



## spike60

svk said:


> Not sure which Steve you are referring to. I'm splitting on the ground and the edge is holding up much better than the Fiskars with similar use. Except for one doozie that hit a big rock when I first started using it and it blew through more quickly than I expected.



Yeah, it was you. Forgot about the multiple Steve thing!

Other thing is that "the ground" can mean different things in different places. Like dirt vs rocks. Lot of rocks around here, so if you hit the ground very often, you're going to be finding them.


----------



## svk

spike60 said:


> Yeah, it was you. Forgot about the multiple Steve thing!
> 
> Other thing is that "the ground" can mean different things in different places. Like dirt vs rocks. Lot of rocks around here, so if you hit the ground very often, you're going to be finding them.


I agree. 

My hunting cabin is on a hill that eventually drops into a lake and has ultra fine sand that goes into clay. You could dig trenches with the thing and not dull it. OTOH my family cabin is a total rock farm. You can't hit the ground without hitting rocks.


----------



## spike60

Freakingstang said:


> Everything larger than 12" in diameter stays on the ground. The smaller stuff I will pick up.
> 
> 
> I'm about firewood-ed out, but free oak is free oak and I'll continue to cut and split until my source dries up. Anyways. .



That's about the same for me. Plus it's the smaller ones that I'm more likey to blast all the way through. 

I've got the same mindset on grabbing wood too. Never know when sources might get scarce, so get it while it's there.


----------



## dancan

One shot with the Stihl .
A little tag team work .






2 very productive wood splitters .






Both work very well , no vibrations come through the handle even when splitting b with bare hands .
The Stihl handle is bigger than the Fiskars , I still think it has a bit over the Fiskars .


----------



## mn woodcutter

So I was at my local dealer and was able to handle the new orange handled husqvarna splitting axe. I was amazed at how short the handle really was. I didn't purchase it because of that.


----------



## TMFARM 2009

yep! still love the fiskars trio!
used them again today, this time without cutting my boot.


----------



## Adler13

The Estwing used to be the classic canoe camping axe. The unbreakable handle was a big feature, though, I have watched guys try to whittle a replacement handle for a conventional axe out of a tree limb on canoe trips.


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> The Estwing used to be the classic canoe camping axe. The unbreakable handle was a big feature, though, I have watched guys try to whittle a replacement handle for a conventional axe out of a tree limb on canoe trips.
> 
> Philbert


Hey Philbert. That Adler guy thinks just like you lol. 

Goodbye spammer.


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> Hey Philbert. That Adler guy thinks just like you lol.Goodbye spammer.



Bummer. I liked his post. You suppose that's because it was my post?

Philbert


----------



## svk

I 'spose. Lol.


----------



## svk

This guy signed up yesterday from India which is one of our main spam sources. When I saw him post in two of the regular threads I knew he had gone rogue.


----------



## Dalmatian90

> the axemen soldiers in the Grenadier combat companies... mission was to mount assaults at the head of all combat units in order to destroy the obstacles created by the enemy.
> 
> At origin there were 6 kinds of axes to destroy and 7 kinds of axes to hammer.



https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foreign_Legion_Pioneers_(Pionniers)


----------



## svk

Very interesting. Also noticed that all of them have beards and just about every ethnicity is represented.


----------



## zogger

Dalmatian90 said:


> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foreign_Legion_Pioneers_(Pionniers)



That is just too slick! Great find!


----------



## Ronaldo

svk said:


> Very interesting. Also noticed that all of them have beards and just about every ethnicity is represented.


I noticed that same thing and was wondering about it.


----------



## Philbert

Ronaldo said:


> I noticed that same thing and was wondering about it.


Explained in the wiki article. 

It appears that they were an early form of combat engineers, and also highly expendable. 

Philbert


----------



## svk

Fiskars X7 heading my way from Amazon this afternoon. Had some points to burn.

Also ordered "Never Cry Wolf", "American Wilderness Hunting" 1 and 2 (by Arthur Dubs, well known outdoor film producer), Rocky Trilogy, and Rambo Trilogy.


----------



## SteveSS

Points to burn?


----------



## svk

SteveSS said:


> Points to burn?


Rewards Bucks. For every 100 bucks you spend, you get 1$ in rewards


----------



## SteveSS

Sweet! I'm a Prime member. Didn't know anything about it.


----------



## svk

SteveSS said:


> Sweet! I'm a Prime member. Didn't know anything about it.


Their credit card has it. They also accept discover card points.


----------



## SteveSS

Ahhh, gotcha.


----------



## svk

SteveSS said:


> Sweet! I'm a Prime member. Didn't know anything about it.


You need to have their card or discover to get points though. 

Prime is a great deal but I'd buy way too much stuff. I group my orders to get free shipping every so often.


----------



## Dr. Hackemoff

jakewells said:


> handle needs to be longer for me to to buy one. i use a 8lb truper maul with a amish made 40 inch hickory handle.



Not to hijack the thread, but I just did a quick search on the Fiskars site...this looks pretty nice, 36" 8 lb

http://www2.fiskars.com/Products/Gardening-and-Yard-Care/Axes-and-Mauls/IsoCore-8-lb-Maul-36


----------



## svk

Dr. Hackemoff said:


> Not to hijack the thread, but I just did a quick search on the Fiskars site...this looks pretty nice, 36" 8 lb
> 
> http://www2.fiskars.com/Products/Gardening-and-Yard-Care/Axes-and-Mauls/IsoCore-8-lb-Maul-36


I moved this post into the splitting tool thread.

This looks like a great tool for heavy splitting. Anyone have one?


----------



## zogger

Nope, first I have seen of that model, but I want one for sure. 64 bucks online running a search with the model number.


----------



## Ronaldo

Might be good for the really tough ones, but i like the lighter weight of the X25 and X27. I wouldn't want to go back to swinging an 8 pounder again.


----------



## ashy larry

Well, im in the market for a new tool.

Was really expecting to get a black friday splitter but nobody had any sales near me, so im gonna continue to borrow as needed and split mostly by hand.

I have the true temper 3.5lb splitter with the "wings" on the side that really throw the wood. It just doesnt work well in big tough wood. So i backed it up with an 8lb Truper maul. I like it so far, handled some 26" green red oak rounds i really wasnt expecting it to crack. Then the same for some knotty white oak. 8lbs is a lot to move, and i felt it pretty fast. 

So the dilemma... S2800, x27, or the new stihl? I need a midweight splitting axe to use most of the time. Read this whole thread and still cant seem to figure out which one i want.


----------



## svk

ashy larry said:


> So the dilemma... S2800, x27, or the new stihl? I need a midweight splitting axe to use most of the time. Read this whole thread and still cant seem to figure out which one i want.


S2800

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars-x27-vs-husqvarna-s2800.289852/


----------



## ashy larry

Went shopping today with every intention of buying an x27, saving $50 and being done with it. Well, Lowes only had the full black handle version which ive gathered is the original model and not as good as the x27.






So, unless somebody talks me out of it, i think im gonna put an order in for an S2800 at the local husky dealer. What is the head weight on those?


----------



## svk

ashy larry said:


> Went shopping today with every intention of buying an x27, saving $50 and being done with it. Well, Lowes only had the full black handle version which ive gathered is the original model and not as good as the x27.
> 
> So, unless somebody talks me out of it, i think im gonna put an order in for an S2800 at the local husky dealer. What is the head weight on those?



The all black version currently available is exactly the same as the X27 except for having a molded plastic grip instead of a rubberized grip. Performance is identical.

Not sure if you read my other thread yet but several of us do believe that the S2800 is a more effective tool than the X27. @spike60 has them for $70.


----------



## zogger

Just ordered one of the new fiskars isocore 8 lbers. They are already back ordered, getting it when they can get them shipped directly to my closest true value, ordered it right through them locally, same as online price. I do business with those guys a lot, they said probably around three weeks or so.


----------



## svk

zogger said:


> Just ordered one of the new fiskars isocore 8 lbers. They are already back ordered, getting it when they can get them shipped directly to my closest true value, ordered it right through them locally, same as online price. I do business with those guys a lot, they said probably around three weeks or so.


We will anxiously await your review. What was the price?


----------



## zogger

svk said:


> We will anxiously await your review. What was the price?



64 bucks


----------



## svk

zogger said:


> 64 bucks


For that price I'm debating just ordering one. 

You don't know how many times I've looked at those Euro Fiskar mauls. But it would have been almost 200 bucks including shipping to get one here.


----------



## zogger

svk said:


> For that price I'm debating just ordering one.
> 
> You don't know how many times I've looked at those Euro Fiskar mauls. But it would have been almost 200 bucks including shipping to get one here.



Yep, that's why I jumped on it. seemed quite reasonable only ten bucks more than an x27. Called them before and asked why not sell the big euro jobs here? Crickets... Maybe they finally realized there are niches that fit different axes and a big one with a long handle is quite a common splitting niche here in the US. I am amazed it took them this long. I know I want it for the low vibes handle. My truper does the job at 8lbs but the vibes and shock really did a number on my elbow, taken more than a year off and not split much at all because of that. I am WAYYY behind on splitting. I've done a few swings on oakzilla chunks with my small variety here, but..still sucks. We'll see if this can work as the big boy adjunct to my original supersplitter..if not..drat..have to break down and get some dang machine splitter...


----------



## ashy larry

How effective is a Granfors?

I know their beautiful and of great quality but compared to these modern jigs, how do the dern things split wood?

I could probably swing one for a xmas gift, but not if it isnt an extremely effective splitter.


----------



## benp

zogger said:


> Yep, that's why I jumped on it. seemed quite reasonable only ten bucks more than an x27. Called them before and asked why not sell the big euro jobs here? Crickets... Maybe they finally realized there are niches that fit different axes and a big one with a long handle is quite a common splitting niche here in the US. I am amazed it took them this long. I know I want it for the low vibes handle. My truper does the job at 8lbs but the vibes and shock really did a number on my elbow, taken more than a year off and not split much at all because of that. I am WAYYY behind on splitting. I've done a few swings on oakzilla chunks with my small variety here, but..still sucks. We'll see if this can work as the big boy adjunct to my original supersplitter..if not..drat..have to break down and get some dang machine splitter...



I understand about the being injured and trying to play catch up because you don't have a choice. I look at the one man show being a marathon and not a sprint. lol

If I lived closer to you Zog, I'd be down for helping you split. I think it would be fun and really be able to make some progress on your piles.


----------



## zogger

benp said:


> I understand about the being injured and trying to play catch up because you don't have a choice. I look at the one man show being a marathon and not a sprint. lol
> 
> If I lived closer to you Zog, I'd be down for helping you split. I think it would be fun and really be able to make some progress on your piles.



Oh ya, it would be fun for sure. I ain't sweating it right now, I am still years ahead with cut/split/stacked. And there is always noodling plus just cutting more smalls that don't need splitting.


----------



## ashy larry

Well. I rejected svks opinion and got the Fiskars. $100 bones is high and since i split on the ground most of the time, i dont think the husky was for me.

First impression of the Fiskars...quite favorable.

It was splitting big red oak in fewer hits than the 8lb truper. Once you get a split it doesnt take a "full swing". To split off chunks after that. 

My only niche left to fill is something in the 6lb range...not sure what that needs to be but i think ill be using the fiskars almost exclusively now.


----------



## svk

This arrived today:


----------



## zogger

svk said:


> This arrived today:
> 
> View attachment 468432



Nice derringer, hideout!


----------



## ashy larry

Made a few of these






Into these





And into this


----------



## Fordhighboy1

Well I broke another maul today. Not too far out of the ordinary other than I dont have any wood handled mauls anymore. The maul that is now headless is one of he big giant old school mega mauls. So if anyone wants my review of nameless brand meg maul dad has had since the 1970s loved it till it is now handleless. Secondly if anyone wants to know more about the wilton bash I have been using one for about the last 10 cords of everything imaginable in the mid west and keep going back to it over my x27 which now sits in the corner most of the time with the collection of broken mauls. The wilton i have is the short handled 8lb version. I would say the design of the edege on it and the factory edge that came on it were quite poor but after about 30 minutes with a flap disk it is much better. Though i still do not believe it is a very good head design it is made of verry good steel compared to the x27. Also the back side of it is a sledge hammer so it can be used to beat on things like wedged (or as pops used it for concrete). Like I said i think that someone could do alot better on the design of the head but i really like it and use it more than anything else because the thing is INDESTRUCTABLE. That is my rambling review of the wilton now i want to learn more about that new stihl.


----------



## svk

Fordhighboy1 said:


> Well I broke another maul today. Not too far out of the ordinary other than I dont have any wood handled mauls anymore. The maul that is now headless is one of he big giant old school mega mauls. So if anyone wants my review of nameless brand meg maul dad has had since the 1970s loved it till it is now handleless. Secondly if anyone wants to know more about the wilton bash I have been using one for about the last 10 cords of everything imaginable in the mid west and keep going back to it over my x27 which now sits in the corner most of the time with the collection of broken mauls. The wilton i have is the short handled 8lb version. I would say the design of the edege on it and the factory edge that came on it were quite poor but after about 30 minutes with a flap disk it is much better. Though i still do not believe it is a very good head design it is made of verry good steel compared to the x27. Also the back side of it is a sledge hammer so it can be used to beat on things like wedged (or as pops used it for concrete). Like I said i think that someone could do alot better on the design of the head but i really like it and use it more than anything else because the thing is INDESTRUCTABLE. That is my rambling review of the wilton now i want to learn more about that new stihl.


Cool! Glad to hear a review on the 8# bash. I have a 6# but haven't had a chance to use it enough to form an opinion.


----------



## ashy larry

Id be scared of the head breaking off above my head on a monster maul with wood handle


----------



## Fordhighboy1

How does the vibration in the handle of the s2800 compare to that in the x27? That is one of the main reasons i like the wilton so much and franly dislike the x27.


----------



## svk

Fordhighboy1 said:


> How does the vibration in the handle of the s2800 compare to that in the x27? That is one of the main reasons i like the wilton so much and franly dislike the x27.


I haven't really noticed any however I have been using cotton gloves. I know it's noticeable when splitting hardwood with the X27, not so much when splitting softer wood.


----------



## Fordhighboy1

ashy larry said:


> Id be scared of the head breaking off above my head on a monster maul with wood handle



This was an all metal mega maul. Would need a tree trunk to have a wood handle.


----------



## WTE

I have a Gransfors Bruks splitting maul, a Fiskars x27, and a TrueValue type 6lb splitting maul. The Gransfors Bruks is easily the best. It's really a pretty amazing thing, and I love it. I dinged it trying to split apple wood (don't try to split apple wood btw), but it's just so much better than everything else.


----------



## svk

WTE said:


> I have a Gransfors Bruks splitting maul, a Fiskars x27, and a TrueValue type 6lb splitting maul. The Gransfors Bruks is easily the best. It's really a pretty amazing thing, and I love it. I dinged it trying to split apple wood (don't try to split apple wood btw), but it's just so much better than everything else.


Is that the "large splitting maul"? I have looked at that model, they appear quite impressive.


----------



## Trx250r180

svk said:


> This arrived today:
> 
> View attachment 468432


I have had one of these for a couple years now ,great for kindling ,and carpentry even ,i make log furniture type stuff once in a while ,and it works great for peeling bark and shaping logs ,i bought a husqvarna carpenter axe for this ,but it is bigger and not as easy to get detail work done with it on smaller stuff over the x-7


----------



## svk

Trx250r180 said:


> I have had one of these for a couple years now ,great for kindling ,and carpentry even ,i make log furniture type stuff once in a while ,and it works great for peeling bark and shaping logs ,i bought a husqvarna carpenter axe for this ,but it is bigger and not as easy to get detail work done with it on smaller stuff over the x-7


If this is as big of an improvement over a regular hatchet as the X-15 is over a traditional chopping axe I am sure I'll greatly enjoy it. (Haven't had a chance to use it yet).

Sometimes when I am hand splitting, the far side of the round will have a bunch of stringy fibers in the outside 1/2" of wood below the bark. It's nice to have a hatchet handy to zing through these rather than have to take a swing with the big axe.


----------



## WTE

svk said:


> Is that the "large splitting maul"? I have looked at that model, they appear quite impressive.


Apparently they make a "Large Splitting Axe" and a "Splitting Maul". I have the maul, not the axe, and it's a wonderful tool. It was the Christmas present I asked for last year, and totally worth it. I hand split 2 1/2 cords with it so far, almost all of it pretty large, hard hickory and oak. I see it's on Amazon now, but for like $30 more than I got it for last year.


----------



## svk

WTE said:


> Apparently they make a "Large Splitting Axe" and a "Splitting Maul". I have the maul, not the axe, and it's a wonderful tool. It was the Christmas present I asked for last year, and totally worth it. I hand split 2 1/2 cords with it so far, almost all of it pretty large, hard hickory and oak. I see it's on Amazon now, but for like $30 more than I got it for last year.


Got it, sorry I typed the wrong thing.

Interesting thing about Amazon, I was looking at buying a Helko axe as a gift. Price is up 32 bucks from last year and 20 bucks from a month ago. I wonder if they will go down after the holdiays?


----------



## Raganr

I need to pick up one of those small Fiskars hatchets.

Been getting some time with my GB maul and small splitting axe. Very pleased with both. Sort if want a GB outdoor axe for the real small stuff (for my smoker).


----------



## Cycledude

After reading lots of Internet reviews I bought the Fiskars X27, the lifetime free replacement warranty was a big seller for me even though I have never broke a maul handle.
Is it the best splitting maul out there ? Maybe maybe not but it sure works great for me ! So far I've only split a little over a cord with it but I'm very satisfied. 
Bought mine from Home Depot, $56 and free shipping.


----------



## svk

Finally got my 6# bash back from my friend's house this week. I'll put that up against the Fiskars and Husky as I finish off my wood processing year.


----------



## Philbert

Here is a rewiew of the 8 pound version by an A.S. member:



Philbert


----------



## SteveSS

Mine was no where near as sharp as the one in that video. I had to put a little work into getting an edge on mine.


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> Here is a rewiew of the 8 pound version by an A.S. member:
> 
> 
> 
> Philbert



Nice video @maul ratt 

How does this compare to the Big Ox maul you reviewed a year or so ago?


----------



## Fordhighboy1

Well boys I got a husqvarna S2800 and a 5 lb woodlandPRO axe for christmas. Now to go put them to enough use to give propper reviews though the little i have used the s2800 i feel it is better for me than the x27.


----------



## Ronaldo

Fordhighboy1 said:


> Well boys I got a husqvarna S2800 and a 5 lb woodlandPRO axe for christmas. Now to go put them to enough use to give propper reviews though the little i have used the s2800 i feel it is better for me than the x27.


Nice Christmas gifts.


----------



## Fordhighboy1

Ronaldo said:


> Nice Christmas gifts.


They are, i also got 5 new woodlandpro saw chains of various link counts.


----------



## backhoelover

svk said:


> Here's the only recent picture I've got. My 8 lb maul is broken and the head is MIA in my garage. I think its under the radial arm saw table which is almost buried in wood scraps (which will be used for kindling this winter). I've got a new handle to put on once I unearth it.
> 
> This picture was from the Leveraxe test thread, the LA is the traveling one and not mine.
> 
> Left to right: True Temper Splitting Axe, True Temper 6# maul, and x27.
> 
> 1) Splitting axe is a nice tool on straight grained stuff and easy to swing. Has it's limitations on tougher wood. True Temper factory handle is a little rough, could use some sanding and a coat of BLO but I don't use it much.
> 2)The maul works OK. Better on knotty stuff than the Fiskars but doesn't work nearly as well on green wood, tends to just stick in the round.
> 3) BEST SPLITTING TOOL EVER MADE BAR NONE.....Just kidding but do most of my work with this. Best _all-around_ splitting tool I have used *up to this point*. Works great on most ash, aspen, maple, and birch which is 95% of what I cut.
> 4) (Not Pictured) 8 Lb maul, brand unknown. Looks just like the 6 but the head is blue. Performance similar to #2 but the extra weight tires you our faster. Works a little better on difficult pieces than #2 or #3.
> 5) (Not Pictured) "Kindling Axe". Basically a splitting axe like #1 with about 1/2 of the handle cut off. This is used to reduce splits to kindling, basically one handed operation on the axe and one setting wood on the chopping block. Not sure if others used something like this or not.
> View attachment 380627
> 
> 
> With that being said, I'd like to try out the "Big Ox" and also the higher end mid weight splitting tools.




can some one give me some info on the axe that is on the right never seen one of them also can you tell me what it is used for 

TIA Jacob


----------



## backhoelover




----------



## svk

backhoelover said:


> can some one give me some info on the axe that is on the right never seen one of them also can you tell me what it is used for
> 
> TIA Jacob


That's the leveraxe. Search the site, we have a long thread about it.


----------



## backhoelover

k ty


----------



## gunnusmc03

It's the 2nd iteration of the leveraxe


----------



## svk

Tested out the 6# Wilton Bash maul against the S2800 and X27 today. I've owned this since late summer but it was forgotten at my friend's house so I hadn't used it at all yet.

Granted I was only splitting one species but here are my thoughts after running them head to head.

The Wilton is a well built tool with a nice poll for driving wedges or whatever you might need to pound on. The handle is supposedly unbreakable. There appears to be some rubber insulation between the handle and head as there is a slight amount of wiggling if you have the axe stationary and put pressure on the handle i.e. when wiggling it out of a round. The factory edge was rounded off a little bit so a couple passes on the grinder had her looking good. 

Performance wise in this splitting medium, I would rank it as equal to the Fiskars but it took noticeably more effort to achieve that performance. So while I will definitely keep this around for wedge duty or when I need a tool that can be pounded through difficult rounds, I wouldn't go out and buy one to replace my current lineup either.

Again the S2800 performed above the level of the other tools. It just splits with more authority and takes fewer swings to get the job done.


----------



## zogger

There's something about all these axes that bugs me, from an ergonomics and physics angle. If you look at most of them, the bottom outside edge is exaggerated, which to me, misses the aim of what is happening when steel meets wood the way humans work. The very farthest away edge, at the top, is the area with the most speed and kinetic energy during the arc of the swing. So why have the bottom edge hit first, and why exaggerate the weight there? nuts! It's the wrong place. It loses the advantage of the swing speed, and wastes the follow up follow through inertia. The outside, top edge should be exaggerated so it hits first and is "weighted" there,, *or*, they need to have a small tilt, approximately between 5 and 10 degrees, similar in theory to how a kukri chopping knife is tilted. With the tilt, then balance the blade exactly, no bias either way as the entire edge is presented at the same time.


----------



## MustangMike

I will have to give that Husky Axe a try, cause I just love the X27. It is the best hand tool for splitting that I have used in 40 years, but I will have to give those new ones a try. Too bad Spike60 did not have his GTG this year, I bet it would have been there.


----------



## svk

MustangMike said:


> I will have to give that Husky Axe a try, cause I just love the X27. It is the best hand tool for splitting that I have used in 40 years, but I will have to give those new ones a try. Too bad Spike60 did not have his GTG this year, I bet it would have been there.


I'm curious what a tall, long armed guy like you would think about the S2800. The shorter handle does take some getting used to but boy does it split the wood. 

We could always make the handle longer. I hear @Ambull01 mighy have a wheelbarrow handle we could use LOL


----------



## benp

SteveSS said:


> Mine was no where near as sharp as the one in that video. I had to put a little work into getting an edge on mine.



That is how all of the edges were when I checked them out at the Acme Tools here. They all needed a bit of work for a good edge.



svk said:


> *I'm curious what a tall, long armed guy like you would think about the S2800. * The shorter handle does take some getting used to but boy does it split the wood.
> 
> We could always make the handle longer. I hear @Ambull01 mighy have a wheelbarrow handle we could use LOL



You and me both.


----------



## Logger nate

zogger said:


> There's something about all these axes that bugs me, from an ergonomics and physics angle. If you look at most of them, the bottom outside edge is exaggerated, which to me, misses the aim of what is happening when steel meets wood the way humans work. The very farthest away edge, at the top, is the area with the most speed and kinetic energy during the arc of the swing. So why have the bottom edge hit first, and why exaggerate the weight there? nuts! It's the wrong place. It loses the advantage of the swing speed, and wastes the follow up follow through inertia. The outside, top edge should be exaggerated so it hits first and is "weighted" there,, *or*, they need to have a small tilt, approximately between 5 and 10 degrees, similar in theory to how a kukri chopping knife is tilted. With the tilt, then balance the blade exactly, no bias either way as the entire edge is presented at the same time.


Maybe that's why husky axe works well, short handle so far corner hits first? Hard to believe it's better than x27, sure like mine, might have to try the husky.


----------



## Marshy

svk said:


> Tested out the 6# Wilton Bash maul against the S2800 and X27 today. I've owned this since late summer but it was forgotten at my friend's house so I hadn't used it at all yet.
> 
> Granted I was only splitting one species but here are my thoughts after running them head to head.
> 
> The Wilton is a well built tool with a nice poll for driving wedges or whatever you might need to pound on. The handle is supposedly unbreakable. There appears to be some rubber insulation between the handle and head as there is a slight amount of wiggling if you have the axe stationary and put pressure on the handle i.e. when wiggling it out of a round. The factory edge was rounded off a little bit so a couple passes on the grinder had her looking good.
> 
> Performance wise in this splitting medium, I would rank it as equal to the Fiskars but it took noticeably more effort to achieve that performance. So while I will definitely keep this around for wedge duty or when I need a tool that can be pounded through difficult rounds, I wouldn't go out and buy one to replace my current lineup either.
> 
> Again the S2800 performed above the level of the other tools. It just splits with more authority and takes fewer swings to get the job done.
> View attachment 473823


That Wikton Bash looks similar to the Fiskars splitting maul but with a shorter handle. @zogger, were waiting on your review of the Fiskars maul... What's it going to take, need us to come cut some rounds for ya?


----------



## svk

Marshy said:


> That Wikton Bash looks similar to the Fiskars splitting maul but with a shorter handle. @zogger, were waiting on your review of the Fiskars maul... What's it going to take, need us to come cut some rounds for ya?


I think the Fiskars has a more gradual taper. Very interested to see reviews.


----------



## MustangMike

Fiskars Splitting Maul - Is that a new item???


----------



## svk

MustangMike said:


> Fiskars Splitting Maul - Is that a new item???


You been living under a rock?!!!


----------



## Cycledude

Yes Fiskars has been selling splitting mauls , I think the x27 is their most popular maul, it comes with a lifetime free replacement warranty, I bought one a couple months ago and so far like it very well. Guess I also live under a rock because I would not have known about Fiskars mauls if this forum wasn't here to read. I have no idea when Fiskars started making mauls.
http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-X27-S...kcompar-20&ascsubtag=5689d58248308f199ccec157


MustangMike said:


> Fiskars Splitting Maul - Is that a new item???


----------



## zogger

Marshy said:


> That Wikton Bash looks similar to the Fiskars splitting maul but with a shorter handle. @zogger, were waiting on your review of the Fiskars maul... What's it going to take, need us to come cut some rounds for ya?



It's not in my hands yet, I ordered it but it has been backordered at the distributors for weeks now.


----------



## Marshy

Cycledude said:


> Yes Fiskars has been selling splitting mauls , I think the x27 is their most popular maul, it comes with a lifetime free replacement warranty, I bought one a couple months ago and so far like it very well. Guess I also live under a rock because I would not have known about Fiskars mauls if this forum wasn't here to read. I have no idea when Fiskars started making mauls.
> http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-X27-S...kcompar-20&ascsubtag=5689d58248308f199ccec157


The X-27 is considered a splitting axe not a maul due to the weight. They offer an 8lb maul, see here.

http://www2.fiskars.com/Products/Gardening-and-Yard-Care/Axes-and-Mauls/IsoCore-8-lb-Maul-36


----------



## MustangMike

Thank you Marshy,

Yes I have a X-27 Splitting AXE - Did not know they made a splitting maul.

Anyone try it???

Not under a rock, just awake at the switch!


----------



## Marshy

I haven't heard anyone using one... Zogger is going to be the first!


----------



## svk

One other fellow also has one on order I believe. Can't remember who.


----------



## zogger

MustangMike said:


> Thank you Marshy,
> 
> Yes I have a X-27 Splitting AXE - Did not know they made a splitting maul.
> 
> Anyone try it???
> 
> Not under a rock, just awake at the switch!



Fiskars has had heavy mauls like forever, but only sold them in Europe. This new "isocore" line of tools is being offered in the USA as well.


----------



## Cycledude

Like the x27 very well for the splitting I do, for the tuff stuff I use a homemade hydraulic splitter that runs off my tractor. 
That 8 pound Fiskars maul also looks great .


----------



## MustangMike

One thing I really like about the X27 is that it splits better than a traditional maul, but is much lighter, so I can use it for an extended period of time. The heavier maul would have to be much more effective for me to want one.


----------



## zogger

MustangMike said:


> One thing I really like about the X27 is that it splits better than a traditional maul, but is much lighter, so I can use it for an extended period of time. The heavier maul would have to be much more effective for me to want one.



I'm trying it for the new isocore reduced shock handle. And that's it. Even though it is an 8 lber, which I am real "meh" about, I need *something* I can swing now and not blow my elbow/wrist/shoulder out. It's just a test. My original supersplit with the skinny wedge head is so far the best I ever used at any weight, most splitting with least fatigue and least amount of perceived shock. I never got an x27..mostly because I just like that original head design better, makes more sense to me. I am hoping the new handle system really works, and if so, and it sells, eventually they will offer a lightweight splitting axe with the same handle system. Or, thinking way ahead, I'll just cut the hammer head part off the back to reduce the weight some for faster swing, I prefer faster over heavier. I don't need a splitting tool to drive wedges, I can use a sledge for that. (and they have isocore sledges, too..we'll see how the maul works first)


----------



## svk

zogger said:


> I'm trying it for the new isocore reduced shock handle. And that's it. Even though it is an 8 lber, which I am real "meh" about, I need *something* I can swing now and not blow my elbow/wrist/shoulder out. It's just a test. My original supersplit with the skinny wedge head is so far the best I ever used at any weight, most splitting with least fatigue and least amount of perceived shock. I never got an x27..mostly because I just like that original head design better, makes more sense to me. I am hoping the new handle system really works, and if so, and it sells, eventually they will offer a lightweight splitting axe with the same handle system. Or, thinking way ahead, I'll just cut the hammer head part off the back to reduce the weight some for faster swing, I prefer faster over heavier. I don't need a splitting tool to drive wedges, I can use a sledge for that. (and they have isocore sledges, too..we'll see how the maul works first)


Do you find yourself having elbow problems with the Fiskars super splitter?


----------



## MustangMike

I had elbow problems with it in 2014, but then again I'm gettin old, and I split all my wood by hand that year.


----------



## zogger

svk said:


> Do you find yourself having elbow problems with the Fiskars super splitter?



Nope, not then anyway, mine went when I got into gnarly stuff and went back to the big maul/sledge/wedge. But since then,. anything sucks, but as long as it is only a few swings, tolerable, but a full session has not been in the cards....I went ahead and did the leveraxe test because I wanted to, and to see if any difference with the conventional axes and mauls. 

Anywho, I'll know after this winter if I can still hand split a lot or not. If not, obvious alternatives out there, spendy for my budget but justifiable then. I am far enough ahead on c/s/s I am not worrying about it.


----------



## svk

zogger said:


> Nope, not then anyway, mine went when I got into gnarly stuff and went back to the big maul/sledge/wedge. But since then,. anything sucks, but as long as it is only a few swings, tolerable, but a full session has not been in the cards....I went ahead and did the leveraxe test because I wanted to, and to see if any difference with the conventional axes and mauls.
> 
> Anywho, I'll know after this winter if I can still hand split a lot or not. If not, obvious alternatives out there, spendy for my budget but justifiable then. I am far enough ahead on c/s/s I am not worrying about it.


I did notice significantly more vibration from the Fiskars when splitting hardwood. I also got tennis elbow when I would do a lot of limbing with a heavy saw followed by longer splitting sessions. Did 3 cords last week with the Husky axe and no problems however it was all softwood.


----------



## Marshy

@zogger, if you decide you don't like the fiskars maul and want your money back drop me a PM, I've been wanting one.


----------



## benp

svk said:


> I did notice significantly more vibration from the Fiskars when splitting hardwood. I also got tennis elbow when I would do a lot of limping with a heavy saw followed by longer splitting sessions. Did 3 cords last week with the Husky axe and no problems however it was all softwood.



The only time I notice vibrations is when I try to split something that the axe bounces off of. 

However, that shock is usually transmitted to everything that was broke on the left side of my chest a couple years ago. 

I had one this past fall that felt like a lightning bolt to collarbone. Yow. 

It's only in those extreme instances I feel anything aside from the first week of back into cutting and swinging in the summer after a few months off.


----------



## benp

zogger said:


> I'm trying it for the new isocore reduced shock handle. And that's it. Even though it is an 8 lber, which I am real "meh" about, I need *something* I can swing now and not blow my elbow/wrist/shoulder out. It's just a test. My original supersplit with the skinny wedge head is so far the best I ever used at any weight, most splitting with least fatigue and least amount of perceived shock. I never got an x27..mostly because I just like that original head design better, makes more sense to me. I am hoping the new handle system really works, and if so, and it sells, eventually they will offer a lightweight splitting axe with the same handle system. Or, thinking way ahead, I'll just cut the hammer head part off the back to reduce the weight some for faster swing, I prefer faster over heavier. I don't need a splitting tool to drive wedges, I can use a sledge for that. (and they have isocore sledges, too..we'll see how the maul works first)



I really wish I could find one of the originals to try.

That's a 32" handle right?


----------



## zogger

benp said:


> I really wish I could find one of the originals to try.
> 
> That's a 32" handle right?



28" 

When they went to the x series, they lost the straight wedge shape and went to a conventional flared end axe shape. I bet from a marketing standpoint, it didn't "look" like an axe. I think all they had to do was keep the original head and just stick it on a 36" handle and it might have been better, by a little bit anyway, but that's a guess.


----------



## benp

zogger said:


> 28"
> 
> When they went to the x series, they lost the straight wedge shape and went to a conventional flared end axe shape. I bet from a marketing standpoint, it didn't "look" like an axe. I think all they had to do was keep the original head and just stick it on a 36" handle and it might have been better, by a little bit anyway, but that's a guess.



Gotcha. Thanks!


----------



## Marshy

benp said:


> I really wish I could find one of the originals to try.
> 
> That's a 32" handle right?


No, the original was shorter.


----------



## svk

Marshy said:


> No, the original was shorter.


http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars-super-splitting-axe-review.81221/

Check out the vintage SS videos from akkaman


----------



## benp

svk said:


> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars-super-splitting-axe-review.81221/
> 
> Check out the vintage SS videos from akkaman



Pretty good! 

That thread and the videos just reinforce my thoughts of holding out for a longer handle on the s2800. 

In his one video I was hoping he would of went after those big boys that he had there.


----------



## dogdad

Can anyone tell me where the fiskars are actually made? I see their website says "designed in Finland". Also..any suggestions where to buy one? Down here in New Orleans and don't see them anywhere....thanks


----------



## Philbert

Can't tell you for sure if they are all made in the same place. But, if you can't find or order them locally, you can buy them online: Bailey's, Amazon, Ace Hardware, etc. 

Philbert


----------



## SteveSS

Yep. If you can't find one at Ace or Wal Mart, check Bailey's and Amazon. If you're already a Prime member, you'll likely save a bit on Amazon.


----------



## svk

Not much new in the splitting world....hope those isocore mauls make it onto shelves soon!


----------



## Fordhighboy1

For anyone looking for one Bailey's has x27s on sale $20 off list till the fourth. Though i think my recomendation would have to be save up a little more and spring for the s2800. After now owning one for about a month and putting it through a few cords of oak, some elm, some ash, some hackberry, and a bunch of other stuff I fully believe it is a signifigantly better tool than the fiskars. The extra mass of the head and the progressive tapper of it is a signifigant improvement over the fiskars. That coupled with the reduced noticeable vibration translated back through the handle and I believe it is a real winner of a tool. The s2800 has now become my go to splitting tool and the only way i would go back to the x27 is if my s2800 was broken or stolen.


----------



## benp

I Thunderdomed the Fiskars and a piece of bald White Oak today that I had cut on wednesday.

I wasn't real sure how this was going to turn out since it had no hide on it. Those always seem to be a challenge.




6 hits. 3 on one end, 2 on the other, and finishing blow with it horizontal.


----------



## zogger

benp said:


> I Thunderdomed the Fiskars and a piece of bald White Oak today that I had cut on wednesday.
> 
> I wasn't real sure how this was going to turn out since it had no hide on it. Those always seem to be a challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6 hits. 3 on one end, 2 on the other, and finishing blow with it horizontal.



Cool! Actually I have never tried a long one like that..I'll give it shot sometime.


----------



## benp

zogger said:


> Cool! Actually I have never tried a long one like that..I'll give it shot sometime.



It's no different than splitting a smaller one Zog.  You would be surprised.


----------



## Ronaldo

benp said:


> It's no different than splitting a smaller one Zog.  You would be surprised.


Don't you think the smaller(shorter)ones split easier? I cut around 16'' long for my stove and we cut 24'' for Dad's furnace and I think the shorter rounds split considerably easier.


----------



## benp

Ronaldo said:


> Don't you think the smaller(shorter)ones split easier? I cut around 16'' long for my stove and we cut 24'' for Dad's furnace and I think the shorter rounds split considerably easier.



Oh I 100% absolutely agree. 

All I meant was you approach longer pieces the same way. Some split just fine and some not so much, which is exactly the same for shorter pieces..


----------



## johnnylabguy

benp said:


> Oh I 100% absolutely agree.
> 
> All I meant was you approach longer pieces the same way. Some split just fine and some not so much, which is exactly the same for shorter pieces..


I split some long ash pieces today and the fiskars handled it nicely. Granted it was ash, but it did as well or better than the true value 8 lb maul I used as well. I'm dying for some 8 lb isocore reviews(zogger!!!).




Two things I noticed today that are of note using the two equally(other than the greatest attribute of the light weight of the x27 that let's u split with half the effort. Huge!):
-the flanged handle of x27 worked well with the slippery gripped winter Mechanics gloves that had no grip grooves on the palm(fail).
-the sharp edge of the x27 works well as a pick to stand up logs instead of picking them by hand when I used the true value maul. 

Little things but add up to time and effort. There's a reason I haven't used the traditional maul in awhile!


----------



## johnnylabguy

I couldn't take it anymore and ordered the isocore 8 lb'er today. I'll report back in two weeks with results. My guess is better than traditional 8 lb, but for long sessions the x27 better. Either way it's all fun. And I'm going to hose the speedo 22 ton gas splitter down with some wd-40 tomorrow too! Lol


----------



## svk

Well my buddy turned these

Into this



I'm going to rehang them and do the rope around the handle trick to help against overstrikes. 

He is from England and has no formal training with firewooding so I give him credit for getting out there and doing it.


----------



## Ronaldo

OUCH!


----------



## Marshy

svk said:


> Well my buddy turned these
> View attachment 486370
> Into this
> View attachment 486371
> 
> 
> I'm going to rehang them and do the rope around the handle trick to help against overstrikes.
> 
> He is from England and has no formal training with firewooding so I give him credit for getting out there and doing it.


Should of given him the Fiskars and some chainmail long johns lol. Oh well.


----------



## svk

Marshy said:


> Should of given him the Fiskars and some chainmail long johns lol. Oh well.


I bought him a Fiskars. He can use that now.


----------



## zogger

Whoop! As promised, first impressions Fiskars Isocore 8lb maul. Yep, finally came in.

Initial impression on heft, heavy, super light weight handle, emphasizes the head weight. fit and finish normal fiskars high quality. Edge, sharp enough for a heavy maul, but not wicked sharp (I will fix this later, this is a stock impression). Well, sorta stock, new blade, I sprayed it down with teflon.

On to the wood, picking pieces from oakzilla pile #1, in order a crotch with two sets of growth rings, I know this would have been a chore with anything I have, probably a sledge and wedge deal. A few whacks later, splits! Did some easy ones, it's like nothing, barely any HP to the sawing, piop, blasted apart. Picked a real gnarly one, tried it on the ground. This one was most definetly gonna be a noodle project. OK, got some off the outside, the inside, it just bounced. No sticking, it either splits or bounces. Right now I am not swinging hard yet, so these were all in the wuss class swings and it did pretty good. received no elbow shocks, did get two shocks on bounced on the ground at my hand, thumb/wrist area. Not terrible, but would have been better on a shorter splitting block.

The handle I will deduct one full point, too skinny, you can see it compared to the original fiskars, it is thinner, would greatly prefer a rounder thicker handle. So 9/10 as a rating.

All in all, glad I got it, worth the wait and apparently all out in the system now so find your local dealer and order away! 60 clams and tax. The few rounds I did were a good test on non easy twisted wood. One of them was already tried with my 8lb truper last week, nothing, with the new fiskars, it split after like three whacks. The behemoth gnarly one, meh, I don't expect any hand tool to split it anyway. Yard trees are hardly ever easy. Did manage to get some off the outside so that is good, I'll noodle what is left over.

I'll try to find that piece of elm that defied me, or one like it, and do an additional test with that and some other species later in the week.

Bonus pic..nothing says I lurve you like a heart shaped pizza on valentines day! heheheh


----------



## svk

Nice review! Interesting that they actually made the handle smaller in diameter!


----------



## johnnylabguy

zogger said:


> Whoop! As promised, first impressions Fiskars Isocore 8lb maul. Yep, finally came in.
> 
> Initial impression on heft, heavy, super light weight handle, emphasizes the head weight. fit and finish normal fiskars high quality. Edge, sharp enough for a heavy maul, but not wicked sharp (I will fix this later, this is a stock impression). Well, sorta stock, new blade, I sprayed it down with teflon.
> 
> On to the wood, picking pieces from oakzilla pile #1, in order a crotch with two sets of growth rings, I know this would have been a chore with anything I have, probably a sledge and wedge deal. A few whacks later, splits! Did some easy ones, it's like nothing, barely any HP to the sawing, piop, blasted apart. Picked a real gnarly one, tried it on the ground. This one was most definetly gonna be a noodle project. OK, got some off the outside, the inside, it just bounced. No sticking, it either splits or bounces. Right now I am not swinging hard yet, so these were all in the wuss class swings and it did pretty good. received no elbow shocks, did get two shocks on bounced on the ground at my hand, thumb/wrist area. Not terrible, but would have been better on a shorter splitting block.
> 
> The handle I will deduct one full point, too skinny, you can see it compared to the original fiskars, it is thinner, would greatly prefer a rounder thicker handle. So 9/10 as a rating.
> 
> All in all, glad I got it, worth the wait and apparently all out in the system now so find your local dealer and order away! 60 clams and tax. The few rounds I did were a good test on non easy twisted wood. One of them was already tried with my 8lb truper last week, nothing, with the new fiskars, it split after like three whacks. The behemoth gnarly one, meh, I don't expect any hand tool to split it anyway. Yard trees are hardly ever easy. Did manage to get some off the outside so that is good, I'll noodle what is left over.
> 
> I'll try to find that piece of elm that defied me, or one like it, and do an additional test with that and some other species later in the week.
> 
> Bonus pic..nothing says I lurve you like a heart shaped pizza on valentines day! heheheh


Thanks for the first impression Zog! I just got mine delivered tonight! I got home after dark so haven't got a chance to swing it yet but my first impression was similar: heavy and sorta on a lollipop stick! Just a note that I was under impressed with the shipping packaging. I ordered from the Amazon link provided in the thread. . Arrived like this on the porch:


No damage to anything though and the blade was protected with a cardboard sheath. Kinda chincy but at least it's not a wood handle. It is hard to package an 8 lb bowling ball on a stick I guess. I'll try to get into some of my uglies tomorrow because that's all I've got right now. I need to get to the woods!
I'll try to take pics of it in its natural habitat and not the kitchen table too. 
And zogger, is that pizza smiling at me?


----------



## zogger

johnnylabguy said:


> Thanks for the first impression Zog! I just got mine delivered tonight! I got home after dark so haven't got a chance to swing it yet but my first impression was similar: heavy and sorta on a lollipop stick! Just a note that I was under impressed with the shipping packaging. I ordered from the Amazon link provided in the thread. . Arrived like this on the porch:
> View attachment 486575
> 
> No damage to anything though and the blade was protected with a cardboard sheath. Kinda chincy but at least it's not a wood handle. It is hard to package an 8 lb bowling ball on a stick I guess. I'll try to get into some of my uglies tomorrow because that's all I've got right now. I need to get to the woods!
> I'll try to take pics of it in its natural habitat and not the kitchen table too.
> And zogger, is that pizza smiling at me?



Ya, don't know why the pic is sideways but yep, green pepper lips there.

Ya'all have fun with dem uglies, WHAMMO!


----------



## johnnylabguy

Well I gave it a little run today. The big uglies weren't much fun because they were so weak and girly I was done in 10 minutes! Actually it did alright and split some of those I gave up on quite well. This was probably the most impressive one:


I did whittle the others down except for one red oak crotch and it isn't budging for anything less than pneumatic power. I had a thirst for more and kids at grandmas so off to the woods I went!




Ash is really no match for this thing to judge it. I did like how it takes less swing than x27 to pop it. And I did notice in the uglies that if it doesn't split, it will bounce off and not get stuck too like the x27. All fun but need some more "seat time" and side by side to see which I like better!


----------



## benp

Great reviews guys!!!!

Looking forward to more seat time reports.


----------



## svk

FWIW all of the reviews on Fiskars site and Amazon are 5 star. One of the users also commented that the metallurgy is better than the x27.


----------



## johnnylabguy

Stopped by my cousins on the way home last night for the "Big wheel challenge" too!:


The result:
More firewood!


My cousin is a gas splitter guy but was impressed with what he could do with it too. He did mention that he liked how it didn't get stuck in the wood if it didn't split.


----------



## Philbert

Well, most guys on this site have more than one chainsaw too . . .

Philbert


----------



## zogger

Found the exact same elm round that defied everything I had, including the leveraxe during my review week.

Results with the new fiskars 8lb isocore, after ten whacks!

#$$^%%$%$#^*(())_&^&[email protected]#@#$

The winner and still champeen, the dinky winged elm round!

Bonus pic is one of the locals, err.uhh..wood hauler pickup! 31 ferd.. He is limited to two splits at a time though, but the round trips go fast....


----------



## svk

zogger said:


> Found the exact same elm round that defied everything I had, including the leveraxe during my review week.
> 
> Results with the new fiskars 8lb isocore, after ten whacks!
> 
> #$$^%%$%$#^*(())_&^&[email protected]#@#$
> 
> The winner and still champeen, the dinky winged elm round!
> 
> Bonus pic is one of the locals, err.uhh..wood hauler pickup! 31 ferd.. He is limited to two splits at a time though, but the round trips go fast....


That's funny. Talk about one tough cookie!


----------



## benp

zogger said:


> Found the exact same elm round that defied everything I had, including the leveraxe during my review week.
> 
> Results with the new fiskars 8lb isocore, after ten whacks!
> 
> #$$^%%$%$#^*(())_&^&[email protected]#@#$
> 
> The winner and still champeen, the dinky winged elm round!
> 
> Bonus pic is one of the locals, err.uhh..wood hauler pickup! 31 ferd.. He is limited to two splits at a time though, but the round trips go fast....



Cut a cookie off of the end and se if that helps hitting on a fresh cut. Seasoned ends are no bueno for me.


----------



## johnnylabguy

benp said:


> Cut a cookie off of the end and se if that helps hitting on a fresh cut. Seasoned ends are no bueno for me.


Interesting info benp. I may have to try that sometime. Gives me an excuse to fire up a saw too! Zogger, my red oak nub still stands defiantly too.
It actually hit 70(!) degrees here in Ohio yesterday(I'd guess the normal high being around 30) so after the middle son's basketball game it was a lock for some woods time. Didn't hit the firewood too hard but made a fiskars believer out of a few more gas splitter guys. I couldn't get them to stop splitting MY wood so I'd have some fun leftover for myself! My BIL couldn't believe how easy it was compared to his maul. But his is some horribly China made thing that makes a triangle on a stick look good to be honest. We had some fun and relearned that no matter what you're using, freshly cut rounds do not split as well. Even Ash. But it was fun so we split em anyhow. Few pics of a good spring day in February!:


The rounds. And some of the helpers:


And finally the last of rounds with my biggest splitting fan in the background playing with his dinosaurs. He loves to root me on from a safe distance and always yells wham! when they crack!


----------



## zogger

benp said:


> Cut a cookie off of the end and se if that helps hitting on a fresh cut. Seasoned ends are no bueno for me.



I might just to try that but I've done a lot of this winged elm since I have been here. Have even tried cutting a kerf with the saw deep enough for wedges, line them up right next to each other, wail away, get a buncha wedges stuck..makes sweetgum look easy. I cut short and noodle them for the most part.

It's really really good firewood and last a long time with the bark off, luckily they don't get big here, that's about as big as they get in the pic. I have no idea how they measure strength in wood, but I bet lumber made from it would be tops.

It's like..if you hired gorilla glue company to design wood....


----------



## zogger

johnnylabguy said:


> Interesting info benp. I may have to try that sometime. Gives me an excuse to fire up a saw too! It actually hit 70(!) degrees here in Ohio yesterday(I'd guess the normal high being around 30) so after the middle sons basketball game it was a lock for some woods time. Didn't hit the firewood too hard but made a fiskars believer out of a few more gas splitter guys. I couldn't get them to stop splitting MY wood so I'd have some fun leftover for myself!to have



Tom Sawyer and the picket fence gambit, love it! HAHAHAHAHAHA!

Idea.. County fair, a selection of mauls, splitting blocks with tires, some cheapazsz trinket prizes..charge guys to split your wood! Variation on the ring the bell game with a big sledge.


----------



## Oldman47

benp said:


> Cut a cookie off of the end and se if that helps hitting on a fresh cut. Seasoned ends are no bueno for me.


I am splitting some 4 year old ash that I had to cut in half and find that if I hit the fresh cut end with my X27, it splits great but the old exposed end is a real PITA to split. For me, splitting from the fresh cut end works far better.


----------



## Philbert

German Made Helko Top-Line Maul Review

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/german-made-helko-top-line-maul-review.293929/

Philbert


----------



## Alex

Got my Fiskars maul via FedEx yesterday. Looked at the handle and it had some chunks out of it so I refused delivery, Gonna have to wait a little while longer I guess


----------



## zogger

Alex said:


> Got my Fiskars maul via FedEx yesterday. Looked at the handle and it had some chunks out of it so I refused delivery, Gonna have to wait a little while longer I guess



Well, shoot..wonder where the fiskars factory refurb store is...


----------



## svk

Alex said:


> Got my Fiskars maul via FedEx yesterday. Looked at the handle and it had some chunks out of it so I refused delivery, Gonna have to wait a little while longer I guess


Dang, did they ship yours with just the head wrapped too?


----------



## Alex

No, it was all wrapped, just looked like it wasn't handled very well


----------



## johnnylabguy

That's too bad. Mine was wrapped too but had pretty heavy marring on the wrap that made it to the handle a bit but not chunks or bends. Shop the local TrueValue if u can. My closest one was 25 minutes away so I paid the shipping. You'll like it for the big ones when u get it Alex!


----------



## svk

Alex said:


> No, it was all wrapped, just looked like it wasn't handled very well


Well that sucks. Perhaps they will do something for your troubles.


----------



## ashy larry

Ive got a few months on the truper 8lber and the x27 now. All hardwood and plenty of large rounds, i use the x27 70% of the time. Occasionally on some twisted maple ive been working on ill need the 8lb for that initial crack, then i go to the Fiskars. Otherwise, the 272xp carves it down to manageable splitting size. I handed it to a buddy who never splits wood anymore and he was pretty blown away. Still shopping for something in that 6lb class.....the 8lb really works me and hits that bounce are just jarring.


----------



## c5rulz

Here I mentioned this Helko Vario 2000 and I just picked up it's little brother. I have a bunch of axes and mauls and couldn't force myself to use it, it's too pretty. (cheaper than framed and matted prints too for wall hangings)


----------



## svk

Nice!


----------



## Philbert

"_Wall Queens_"?

Philbert


----------



## c5rulz

Philbert said:


> "_Wall Queens_"?
> 
> Philbert





Well I think axes make better wall hangers than chainsaws. I do know people who displays saws in living quarters too.


----------



## benp

Philbert said:


> "_Wall Queens_"?
> 
> Philbert








Don't worry folks, Philbert will be here all week. Don't forget to try the veal.



c5rulz said:


> Well I think axes make better wall hangers than chainsaws. *I do know people who displays saws in living quarters too.*



And? You say that like it's a bad thing....

Funnin aside, those Helkos are sweet looking. I don't blame you.


----------



## dancan

First wood split this year , hard to beat the comfort of a good hickory handle


----------



## benp

dancan said:


> First wood split this year , hard to beat the comfort of a good hickory handle



Awesome!!!

Is the brown on the end just nature's accelerant that has worked it's way out?

The neighbors boy got a serious work out today between re stocking the stove house and Fiskars 101. I ran him into the ground from throwing cut pieces at him in a pile for the re-load then dad wanted him to split after we were done cutting. 

He wasn't too keen on the comment of having him out there with wedges and a 12lb sledge to build up the muscles enough to efficiently swing the Fiskars. 

The funny part was, the neighbor and I both replied that we were out splitting that way at a lot younger age than him.


----------



## dancan

The brown is just softer wood , it holds a little moisture so it shows up like that when cut , if left to dry it disappears .


----------



## mo.woodtick

just got this gem a week ago


----------



## johnnylabguy

mo.woodtick said:


> just got this gem a week ago


Make sure to show us pics in the wood with a review! 8lb head?


----------



## Ryan Groat

johnnylabguy said:


> Make sure to show us pics in the wood with a review! 8lb head?


I love my stihl pro maul. Although after swinging the fiskars, 8lbs seems like a ton.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


----------



## mo.woodtick

johnnylabguy said:


> Make sure to show us pics in the wood with a review! 8lb head?


----------



## mo.woodtick

after using the ox i gotta say the fiskers is a toy ( i was totaly smitten with it for about four years) fiskers is good for knot free straight grain wood but throw in knots or big wood and ill leave leaning on the pile i found iam alot less sore after a day of splitting when i got it i sanded off all the paint on the sides and polished with a hard arkansas stone and virtually no stick in the wood at all well worth' the $100 bucks that i paid for it the best splitting tool i have used(to bad it dosent say "husqavarna"not a sthil fan)


----------



## Philbert

mo.woodtick said:


> fiskers is good for knot free straight grain wood . . .


Most guys don't have one saw either: limbing, bucking, falling, . . . Would you want to lift that heavier maul on a pile of wood that the Fiskars would split?

Philbert


----------



## mo.woodtick

i actually grab it first i know its not going to stick and iam not going to swing multiple times to split the log plus the wife and thirteen yr old really like my fiskers btw not bagging on the fiskers its got its place but since using the ox i find i dont work as hard more mass= less swings hickory handle much better on my hands still use the fiskers on smaller stuff the real straight grain stuff


----------



## svk

Rehung (again) the two axes from the children's camp. Wrapped them up with a little rope to hopefully prolong handle life. The camp employees broke the fiberglass handle that originally came on the left axe so eventually any handle is going to be broken. They do have a X27 now so these are backups. 

I'll probably wrap the rope in electrical or duct tape as well to prevent the knot from coming apart.


----------



## mo.woodtick

svk said:


> Rehung (again) the two axes from the children's camp. Wrapped them up with a little rope to hopefully prolong handle life. The camp employees broke the fiberglass handle that originally came on the left axe so eventually any handle is going to be broken. They do have a X27 now so these are backups.
> 
> I'll probably wrap the rope in electrical or duct tape as well to prevent the knot from coming apart.
> 
> View attachment 494372


kinda sounds like a waist of time teach staff not to hit the handle


----------



## svk

mo.woodtick said:


> kinda sounds like a waist of time teach staff not to hit the handle


Easier said than done. 

I'm there about two days a summer when camp is in session. The director himself broke these last time. If I have to spend 20 bucks a year to rehang these two I have no problem doing so.


----------



## LondonNeil

Can anybody else chip in with a big maul opinion? I'm considering a heavyweight splitter for tackling the gnarly bits. I've got an X27 which is the go-to splitter, also got a 6lb toolstation special which I don't like, often gets stuck, but I do intend to take it to the grindstone and put a better edge on it which might help. however I feel I'm left to resort to wedge and sledge a bit more than I'd like and find myself considering a good 8lb maul. Options I can get over here in the UK:

a. Fiskars 8lb isocore. Not imported to the UK and now Fiskars have (finally) responded to my emails i know they don't plan to have it on the 2017 catalogue either, poo. however i did find an amazon.com seller that will ship across the pond. after international shipping and the annoyingly expensive import tax, it comes out at £77. I like the x27, I like the look of the isocore damping and the look of the head, i like the lifetime warranty..i like that a lot....i have a typically bad aim...however if fiskars uk don't import will it be easy for me to claim should i ever break it? and if i do ever break it, and i can't claim, i can't rehandle.

b. fiskars x46 spelthammer. I get the impression that this is a European version, and an older version of the isocore maul. https://www.alza.co.uk/fiskars-kala...HZ0Z0jA-zOJ4vqUaAuOX8P8HAQ?layoutAutoChange=1 It doesn't look nearly as sexy or well designed. not found it at many sites and those that do have it seem thin on info like the one linked....seem a bit dodgy tbh. however if they are trusted then under £40 (although its more like £65 to £70 on the other sites). warranty 24 months, extended warranty +96 months....what ever that means....maybe its lifetime?

c. stihl 8lb pro splitting/cleaving hammer. Most places this seems to be £80 or more but tonight i found it for £68....if it turns out to be real. hickory handle so nicer to use? but it will break after a while, although with its overstrike protection it should last a few missed swings. If it ...when it breaks will any standard Ash or hickory handle fit it? I'm guessing the eye might be custom? I found a replacement handle for the smaller version (3kg) for £25 so using that as a guide replacement handles are avaialable, not cheap, but not ridiculous. The stihl hammer does look really simple but incredibly sexy with it

Not found any other options yet....things like the wilton bash just don't seem to come over the pond, nor do council tools as far as I can see.


Think i'm leaning to the stihl...sexy and the cheapest ...initially at least....and I hope that since a big maul would only usually get swung at a bug round to get the first split, hopefully even my aim is good enough to avoid most overstrikes. i'll stick to using the sledge on wedges. Anybody that has some experience or thoughts to offer on the options listed, or any other ideas, want to chip in?


----------



## svk

Honestly the Isocore looks to be a better made tool than the Spelthammer. I don't know anyone who has had an Isocore long enough to go head to head with a Stihl maul. I'd be curious to see how they stacked up.


----------



## LondonNeil

I agree, the spelthammer looks very basic....looks like a fibreglass handled cheap maul with a head that is a traditional american maul bit with wedged wings just to try and make it different, it doesn't look appealing. is Fiskars US doing its own product design and keeping isocore to itself? Come on...share, please.


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> Come on...share, please.


That is exactly what we said for years when they offered the spelthammers in europe but not in the US!


----------



## zogger

LondonNeil said:


> Can anybody else chip in with a big maul opinion? I'm considering a heavyweight splitter for tackling the gnarly bits. I've got an X27 which is the go-to splitter, also got a 6lb toolstation special which I don't like, often gets stuck, but I do intend to take it to the grindstone and put a better edge on it which might help. however I feel I'm left to resort to wedge and sledge a bit more than I'd like and find myself considering a good 8lb maul. Options I can get over here in the UK:
> 
> a. Fiskars 8lb isocore. Not imported to the UK and now Fiskars have (finally) responded to my emails i know they don't plan to have it on the 2017 catalogue either, poo. however i did find an amazon.com seller that will ship across the pond. after international shipping and the annoyingly expensive import tax, it comes out at £77. I like the x27, I like the look of the isocore damping and the look of the head, i like the lifetime warranty..i like that a lot....i have a typically bad aim...however if fiskars uk don't import will it be easy for me to claim should i ever break it? and if i do ever break it, and i can't claim, i can't rehandle.
> 
> b. fiskars x46 spelthammer. I get the impression that this is a European version, and an older version of the isocore maul. https://www.alza.co.uk/fiskars-kala...HZ0Z0jA-zOJ4vqUaAuOX8P8HAQ?layoutAutoChange=1 It doesn't look nearly as sexy or well designed. not found it at many sites and those that do have it seem thin on info like the one linked....seem a bit dodgy tbh. however if they are trusted then under £40 (although its more like £65 to £70 on the other sites). warranty 24 months, extended warranty +96 months....what ever that means....maybe its lifetime?
> 
> c. stihl 8lb pro splitting/cleaving hammer. Most places this seems to be £80 or more but tonight i found it for £68....if it turns out to be real. hickory handle so nicer to use? but it will break after a while, although with its overstrike protection it should last a few missed swings. If it ...when it breaks will any standard Ash or hickory handle fit it? I'm guessing the eye might be custom? I found a replacement handle for the smaller version (3kg) for £25 so using that as a guide replacement handles are avaialable, not cheap, but not ridiculous. The stihl hammer does look really simple but incredibly sexy with it
> 
> Not found any other options yet....things like the wilton bash just don't seem to come over the pond, nor do council tools as far as I can see.
> 
> 
> Think i'm leaning to the stihl...sexy and the cheapest ...initially at least....and I hope that since a big maul would only usually get swung at a bug round to get the first split, hopefully even my aim is good enough to avoid most overstrikes. i'll stick to using the sledge on wedges. Anybody that has some experience or thoughts to offer on the options listed, or any other ideas, want to chip in?



The isocore is built well. Looks much better than anything else I have seen on the shelves around here for a full size maul. If it can't bust it, it is noodle time. And it has a hammer head, so you can drive wedges with it as well, although I haven't used mine yet for that purpose.


----------



## LondonNeil

svk said:


> That is exactly what we said for years when they offered the spelthammers in europe but not in the US!



Yeah, my googling found those old threads! is Fiskars not one big company?! I get the impression the spelthammer isn't common here. in fact no big mauls are common here.


----------



## Philbert

Lost of stuff Fiskars offers in Europe that we never see here, and vice versa. The marketing guys decide, I suppose.

Philbert


----------



## mo.woodtick

LondonNeil said:


> Can anybody else chip in with a big maul opinion? I'm considering a heavyweight splitter for tackling the gnarly bits. I've got an X27 which is the go-to splitter, also got a 6lb toolstation special which I don't like, often gets stuck, but I do intend to take it to the grindstone and put a better edge on it which might help. however I feel I'm left to resort to wedge and sledge a bit more than I'd like and find myself considering a good 8lb maul. Options I can get over here in the UK:
> 
> a. Fiskars 8lb isocore. Not imported to the UK and now Fiskars have (finally) responded to my emails i know they don't plan to have it on the 2017 catalogue either, poo. however i did find an amazon.com seller that will ship across the pond. after international shipping and the annoyingly expensive import tax, it comes out at £77. I like the x27, I like the look of the isocore damping and the look of the head, i like the lifetime warranty..i like that a lot....i have a typically bad aim...however if fiskars uk don't import will it be easy for me to claim should i ever break it? and if i do ever break it, and i can't claim, i can't rehandle.
> 
> b. fiskars x46 spelthammer. I get the impression that this is a European version, and an older version of the isocore maul. https://www.alza.co.uk/fiskars-kala...HZ0Z0jA-zOJ4vqUaAuOX8P8HAQ?layoutAutoChange=1 It doesn't look nearly as sexy or well designed. not found it at many sites and those that do have it seem thin on info like the one linked....seem a bit dodgy tbh. however if they are trusted then under £40 (although its more like £65 to £70 on the other sites). warranty 24 months, extended warranty +96 months....what ever that means....maybe its lifetime?
> 
> c. stihl 8lb pro splitting/cleaving hammer. Most places this seems to be £80 or more but tonight i found it for £68....if it turns out to be real. hickory handle so nicer to use? but it will break after a while, although with its overstrike protection it should last a few missed swings. If it ...when it breaks will any standard Ash or hickory handle fit it? I'm guessing the eye might be custom? I found a replacement handle for the smaller version (3kg) for £25 so using that as a guide replacement handles are avaialable, not cheap, but not ridiculous. The stihl hammer does look really simple but incredibly sexy with it
> 
> Not found any other options yet....things like the wilton bash just don't seem to come over the pond, nor do council tools as far as I can see.
> 
> 
> Think i'm leaning to the stihl...sexy and the cheapest ...initially at least....and I hope that since a big maul would only usually get swung at a bug round to get the first split, hopefully even my aim is good enough to avoid most overstrikes. i'll stick to using the sledge on wedges. Anybody that has some experience or thoughts to offer on the options listed, or any other ideas, want to chip in?


 i have a x27 and a sthil pro splitter the sthil is far better for the gnarly stuff its not even close love the pro splitter and the handle is proprietary and only the ox(sthil)handle will work


----------



## svk

Put the final touches on these two tonight. 

I thought about wrapping the whole rope but thought it looked better like this. Just need the knot at the bottom to hold tight.


----------



## dancan

I picked up one of these last year .






http://www.garant.com/html/en/produits/produit.php?idProduit=1008140&typeProduit=famille

70% off , store close out .
After splitting maybe half a cord with it I put it away , it worked OK but every now and then when you hit a round in just the right way you'd get a vibration/shock wave that would go through the handle that you just don't get with wood , the X series or my Stihl polyamide .
Today , I gave it to a friend , he just started burning wood so his list of tools is short , he was very happy .
To me , it was 30% too much after the 70% off LOL


----------



## Philbert

dancan said:


> I picked up one of these last year .



(Heavy?)



dancan said:


> To me , it was 30% too much after the 70% off LOL



_! But it says 'PRO' right on it!!!_

Philbert


----------



## dancan

6 lbs , just too springy for me .
Hmmm , Pro ,,,, I guess I'm just a hack LOL


----------



## Retired

dancan said:


> thought about wrapping the whole rope but thought it looked better like this. Just need the knot at the bottom to hold tight.



You might get along better whipping the rope:

http://www.animatedknots.com/common...png&Website=www.animatedknots.com#ScrollPoint


----------



## dancan

How did I get quoted in saying that ?
Strange , svk said it , not me .


----------



## svk

He probably multi quoted then deleted part of it.


----------



## Retired

svk said:


> He probably multi quoted then deleted part of it.


 Yup. Sorry.


----------



## Giorgio

svk said:


> Rehung (again) the two axes from the children's camp. Wrapped them up with a little rope to hopefully prolong handle life. The camp employees broke the fiberglass handle that originally came on the left axe so eventually any handle is going to be broken. They do have a X27 now so these are backups.
> 
> I'll probably wrap the rope in electrical or duct tape as well to prevent the knot from coming apart.
> 
> View attachment 494372



Hi, 

I have used this 8 lb maul for more than 10 years (5-6 cords/year). As you can see, I am not very good at aiming... Lot of bad hits on the protector: 16 ga SS, 4 small screws at the neutral axis. Never broke the handle anymore...


----------



## zogger

Giorgio said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have used this 8 lb maul for more than 10 years (5-6 cords/year). As you can see, I am not very good at aiming... Lot of bad hits on the protector: 16 ga SS, 4 small screws at the neutral axis. Never broke the handle anymore...



Howdy! Good job on that protector, simple and effective!


----------



## Retired

Lined up most of my "striking tools" for a family picture, in order of most used to least used.

Truper Super Split, 8# Iron City maul, Estwing camp axe, Kobalt hatchet, Fiskars x24 & x27, Chopper 1, 6# no-name maul, 3 1/2 Collins Michigan.


Here's a view from the top, to show how they all compare.



I'll post my thoughts below, if I get these images to work right!


----------



## Retired

I never swung an axe, owned a chainsaw, or lit a fire until I was 48. I split most things with the hydraulic splitter, but lately have been wanting to split some of the easier stuff by hand.

The Truper was my first purchase, I think $26 at the time from Lowe's. It was blunt and took a lot of filing to make it work. I bought the Fiskars next, when they became widely available, but in truth, the Truper fits me better. I'm always getting the Fiskars stuck, where the Truper wiggles right out. I like the Truper well enough that I bought another one this week. It's changed slightly.



The Iron City Maul is my real gem, $4 at a farm sale. It will bust anything, if you can swing it long enough. From left to right, Truper/Iron City/X27:



As for the rest of the collection: the Estwing is my limbing axe. The Kobalt hatchet stays on the splitter. I want to like the Fiskars axes, but they just don't do anything that the Truper won't. The Chopper 1 I bought at a retirement sale...I actually like it a lot, but the Truper does the same thing without springs to break. The 6# maul is worthless, though I had high hopes for it, but $6 at a farm sale so I'm not out much. The Michigan axe is OK...wish I had something like that in 5# to try.

All in all, I use the Truper the most. It will split tough stuff (white oak), with some persistence, and it sends the easy stuff (red oak, hackberry, cherry) flying. I'd recommend it to anyone who thought the Fiskars was too much money. Likewise, I really like the the Estwing for limbing and the Kobalt hatchet. I've tried several other hatchets (Collins, Estwing, Fiskars), but liked the Kobalt well enough to buy a second one when I lost the first.

Thanks for reading.


----------



## Philbert

Nice, side-by-side comparison in your actual use. Striking comparison!

Thanks!

Philbert


----------



## dancan

Not a review but some info that was told to me , take it with a grain of salt .
I was talking to a purchaser with one of my suppliers today , they were a distributor for Whetterlings up here , Whetterlings has been bought by Gransfors Bruks meaning that the distribution of Whetterlings will no longer be sold as before , he didn't know if the name brand would continue but GB will be the distributor worldwide and they will decide who the limited number of resellers will be .
At this time Hultafors are negotiating with Husqvarna on continued production of the wooden handled axes/mauls but there is talk that they are not happy with a new price increase so they may be talking to Fiskars on a deal , there was a mention of a possible off shore component to that deal because of cost consideration .
It looks like the Hultafors labelled line will be available up here while the Hults Bruks line (same) will be available to you Southerners .
Time will tell which way Husqvarna will go .

I may not have been told the truth but I think that it was a credible source .
BTW , this in no way will affect the price of eggs or milk


----------



## gunnusmc03

Wetterlings wasn't bought out by Gransfors Bruks. The guy who owns GB also bought wetterlings. This happened in 2009/10. They're still separate entities.


----------



## dancan

Yes and no kinda , it was business a usual until this year .


----------



## dancan

So I drop into Lee Valley today , I go over to look at the GB's , not a one in the store , I ask the clerk about it, they have more than 300 pieces on backorder , the reason is that the older master smiths are retiring and the new ones aren't consistent enough to meet quality control to keep up with the demand .

Mighty Mouse Logging
LLC


----------



## dancan

Again , told to me by a clerk and will not affect the price of milk , eggs or bread .


----------



## svk

Breathed life into two more tool heads today.


----------



## Philbert

$24 and $44 at local Wally World . . .




Philbert


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> $24 and $44 at local Wally World . . .
> 
> View attachment 500359
> 
> 
> Philbert


For those new to this thread, the one on the right is the best chopping axe I've ever used.


----------



## Ronaldo

svk said:


> For those new to this thread, the one on the right is the best chopping axe I've ever used.


I would have to agree!!!!


----------



## dancan

OK , so like I have this load of 16" to 18" long pine blocks you see so ,

















I don't regret spending a penny on all 3 of them LOL


----------



## Retired

What tool is in the first picture? It's not often you hear "this thread is useless without words!". Also, is the bit on the Stihl curved or straight?


----------



## dancan

The first one is a Gransfors Bruk large splitting axe .

https://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/product/gransfors-large-splitting-axe/


----------



## svk

Haywire said:


> Need some cash, selling a couple sweeties from my collection. $125. takes them both...
> Stihl/Ox Head Forestry Axe
> Husqvarna/Hults Bruks Carpenter Axe


You may want to put these in the trading post for more visibility.


----------



## dancan

Woot !











Works well , no strange vibrations , I like it so far , time will tell .


----------



## LondonNeil

damn i want one of those! I emailed fiskars UK, they aren't importing it . there is a seller on amazon.com that will ship but import tax and shipping nearly double its cost. For the mean time I shall admire from afar, and resist my splitting tool addiction disorder!


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> damn i want one of those! I emailed fiskars UK, they aren't importing it . there is a seller on amazon.com that will ship but import tax and shipping nearly double its cost. For the mean time I shall admire from afar, and resist my splitting tool addiction disorder!


Can't you guys get the 3900 or 4600 gram Fiskars mauls that have been on the European market for years?


----------



## LondonNeil

Yes, the spelthammer I think I've seen it as, it doesn't look as nice as the isocore to me..... Although it is an option. I've not seen any real world reviews on it either. I'm sure it's pretty decent.....my STAD just has me admiring the isocore.


----------



## dancan

45 series or 35 series , which is the better splitter tire ?












They both work fine LOL


----------



## Philbert

I would suggest a Mud+Snow tire for dirty, frozen wood, and a rain tire for wet wood. Most people will be happy with all-season radials for general use. . . .

Philbert


----------



## Streblerm

I picked up a cheapie at Kmart today. It is a mid weight splitting maul for $23. I couldn't pass it up. It is a Bond brand 6.6 lb. splitting maul model 8012. It had a decent edge, thinish cheeks and a hooked heel kind of like the Big Ox or PA80. Handle is fiberglass and about 32"

I didn't give it a long term test but initially I like it a lot. I blew through some poplar and ash, moved on to some black locust with no problem other than burying it in the ground. The edge is none the worse for wear. It took a couple hits to get a twisted piece of apple and surprisingly blew right through a 20" forked maple stump piece.

They also had some nice looking Bond wedges. They were long and slim with a nice gradual taper. I may go pick up a couple. Maybe a maul for dad's day.


Pics to come. Once I'm on wifi


----------



## Streblerm

The balance is good. Better than my wetterlings/husqvarna maul which is similar in weight but shorter in handle. 

Most of my other stuff is fiskars. I just picked up the isocore maul and I really like it. I'm a big fan of the original SS and I do a fair bit with the lighter splitting axe. 

The soft spot on this one is probably the epoxied fiberglass handle. I imagine too many over strikes or much wedge pounding and you can kiss the Chinese epoxy job goodbye. I still like it. It is definitely going into rotation.


----------



## svk

Looks nice!


----------



## Streblerm

svk said:


> Looks nice!



For the price it is hard to beat. I'm a little surprised it works as well as it does.


----------



## Retired

re: epoxy
Idunno. I've got a Truper splitting axe that I use quite a bit, and the top of the epoxy has been cracked a long time without giving out. I've been using it hard for several months now, and still no wiggle in the handle. I've like it to loosen up so I can replace it with a wood handle, but it just won't give up.

On another note, my local Thiesen's has started stocking the Stihl pro splitting Maul. The head is shaped a lot like your Bond, but I sure like the price of the Bond better than $105 for the Stihl.


----------



## svk

Streblerm said:


> For the price it is hard to beat. I'm a little surprised it works as well as it does.


Well as mentioned it does look very similar to well proven, more expensive tools. Some engineer did his homework!


----------



## Woodyjiw

Well the UPS man showed up today with my new X27! I pulled it from the box and went out back to play. Started on some smaller red oak, tears right through it! Split some maple and white oak, like others have said you have to pick your hits but still did good. I'm happy with it and you definitely won't get wore out swinging it. 
I have a hydro splitter I built and I will definitely use this on smaller wood and a little aggression release!

Happy splitting everyone!


----------



## svk

Finally hung the last head I had found in my grandpa's stuff. 

I think this head was actually a scout axe as its a little big for a hatchet handle but has plenty of heft. 




With the other three from grandpa's garage.


----------



## svk

Found this little guy in the shed. This is one of the smallest hatchet heads I've ever seen.


----------



## Backyard Lumberjack

svk said:


> Finally hung the last head I had found in my grandpa's stuff.
> 
> I think this head was actually a scout axe as its a little big for a hatchet handle but has plenty of heft.
> 
> View attachment 507857
> 
> 
> With the other three from grandpa's garage.
> View attachment 507858



nice work rehandling the axes....I like. I have done some of mine, too... but mostly sanded them all down, stained and put some varnish on them... they had gotten dingy looking after so many years...


----------



## Backyard Lumberjack

svk said:


> Found this little guy in the shed. This is one of the smallest hatchet heads I've ever seen.
> 
> View attachment 507859



I would call it a camp axe. but with the nail puller... maybe has other utilities, too...


----------



## Philbert

Might have been a carpenter's axe, or used for shingling.

Philbert


----------



## svk

Any backstory on this? Assuming it was from my great grandpa who was a timber frame carpenter. He even built a water tower for one of the mining towns.


----------



## svk

Backyard Lumberjack said:


> nice work rehandling the axes....I like. I have done some of mine, too... but mostly sanded them all down, stained and put some varnish on them... they had gotten dingy looking after so many years...


Thank ya

I really need to sand the heads and repaint but that's another day.


----------



## Philbert

Broad axe. Used to hew round timbers square or flat. 

Philbert


----------



## Ronaldo

Haven't heard of that brand, but at least the maker thought enough of it to put a name on it. That is certainly not the practice these days in most cases.


----------



## dancan

Here's a couple of axe reference sites .
On the Zenith , http://www.davistownmuseum.org/bioMarshallwells.html

Another good general sight , http://www.yesteryearstools.com/Yesteryears Tools/Info Search.html


----------



## svk

dancan said:


> Here's a couple of axe reference sites .
> On the Zenith , http://www.davistownmuseum.org/bioMarshallwells.html
> 
> Another good general sight , http://www.yesteryearstools.com/Yesteryears Tools/Info Search.html


Wow. Very cool!


----------



## svk

Another repurposed tool from grandpa. Bought the longer handle for more leverage. I'll give it a light sanding and apply some BLO tomorrow.


----------



## JudoChop

Just back from Canadian tire and noticed they are carrying that new Fiskar Maul, seen a few pics here how are they for those with them already??

Hands down my s2800 is still my go, closely followed by the X27 but in my opinion you cant ever have to many wood slitting tools!


----------



## dancan

I like mine , I use it more than I thought I would , no buyers remorse


----------



## ghosta

Greetings from Tasmania, Australia. This is my first post here, although Ive been "lurking" for a while.

Tasmania is the Island State at the bottom of Australia to put you in the picture.

Here is a photo of the head of my 35 yo 8lb "Oregon" Blockbuster which i purchased from the local supermarket not long after I arrived in Tassy. You will note the triangular lump on one face which is designed to prevent the blockbuster from jamming in the split. Our local eucalypt tends to be stringy and the split pieces sometimes hold together by a few strings, meaning you may have to give the pieces another light blow to seperate them, or break the pieces apart by hand as you throw the cut pieces off for loading or stacking. This triangle does help in the removal of the blockbuster head if the strings are holding tightly, but I have not noticed any similar blockbusters (or mauls as they are known in other parts of the world) posted.

Ive been searching for a similar replacement with no sucess till recently, as there is a crack in the handle near the head which is holding OK, but the handle could fail sometime in the future. And I found one oneline, ordered it, and when it arrives it turned out to have a 9lb head instead of the 8lb head as advertised. Just too heavy for regular use, but Ok for the really tough stuff, the extra weight makes a huge difference. But it means I take two blockbusters when woodcutting, things used to be simple, now another thing to forget in the bush....


----------



## ghosta

To continue from last post. Here are my blockbusters-

Top- Chinese ( I presume) 9lb ""Gator"; Middle 8lb "Oregon", Bottom 5lb "Nupla". I'll post and end on view in the next post as i can only post one photo at a time.


----------



## ghosta

The "Nupla" head (on the left) type is a very common pattern used in Australia generally and for many years the only pattern you could buy in Australia, manufactured by local and imported manufacturers. As a kid I can remember Dad bringing the first one Id ever seen home, it sure was better than axe splitting.


----------



## CR888

I had always used 8lb+ big clumsy mauls & honestly thought the little x27 style heads would not stand a chance of splitting Aussie hardwoods but I got one & a S2800 husky one and have been pleasantly supprised. Impact force is weight multiplied by velocity simple. The speed you can swing a light x27 style axe yields high impact. I no longer use my old mauls....can't part with em but don't use em.


----------



## dancan

There are some days that no matter what splitter you have , you get some of these .


----------



## Philbert

That's what you get with those spiral wedges!

Philbert


----------



## dancan

Well that's just great, now I have to go out and buy another wedge, thanks Philbert ....

Mighty Mouse Logging LLC


----------



## johnnyballs

dancan said:


> There are some days that no matter what splitter you have , you get some of these .


silver maple ??


----------



## dancan

Sugar maple .


----------



## johnnyballs

dancan said:


> Sugar maple .


sometimes they can both be pretty nasty...


----------



## svk

Twice I've had silver maple that was twisted at almost a 45 degree angle with additional lighting bolt pattern in it. We split a bunch with a maul and sledge. Now it meets the hydro.


----------



## svk

Spent the last week at our friend's cabin in the Adirondacks. As one of his parting gifts I redid his broken maul. 

I love it when the fit is perfect and the head goes on with mild pressure!



Ready to rip


----------



## DSW

Ive been thinking about adding an Isocore maul and a Stihl splitting Axe. They would be completely frivolous purchases. With my X27 I can easily split 85-90% of what I cut and the rest gets noodled by an 80cc saw that doesn't care how irregular the grain is. I can't see myself being more productive. But hey, i don't smoke, play the lottery, or buy women so if I want to splurge on a splitting tool I feel I've earned it.


----------



## Ronaldo

DSW said:


> Ive been thinking about adding an Isocore maul and a Stihl splitting Axe. They would be completely frivolous purchases. With my X27 I can easily split 85-90% of what I cut and the rest gets noodled by an 80cc saw that doesn't care how irregular the grain is. I can't see myself being more productive. But hey, i don't smoke, play the lottery, or buy women so if I want to splurge on a splitting tool I feel I've earned it.


Go for it, no arguements will likely be coming from this crowd. You have earned a frivolous purchase!


----------



## DSW

Ronaldo said:


> Go for it, no arguements will likely be coming from this crowd. You have earned a frivolous purchase!



I'll talk to my wife then. Just so there's a point and a counterpoint.


----------



## zogger

DSW said:


> I'll talk to my wife then. Just so there's a point and a counterpoint.



You'll like it a lot. Keep the blade CLEAN and sharp and it won't stick. If it builds up pitch, it will start to stick and not split as well.


----------



## LondonNeil

woo who! I've been lusting after a 'big boys maul' to compliment my x27 for 6 months....lusting after the isocore or the stihl pro maul. They are both £80+ over here and since I don't get many big rounds of hardwood that was too much. However a brand new stihl pro came up on the 'bay...I bid and no one else did! got it for £35 I do have to drive 40 miles to collect it, and 40 back but I'm excited to try it  Better hope my aim is improved enough to not destroy the hickory! review will come.


----------



## woodchip rookie

How come stihl doesnt offer that orange handled maul anymore? I looked on the site but didnt see it


----------



## waldtricki

ghosta said:


> View attachment 511772
> 
> 
> The "Nupla" head (on the left) type is a very common pattern used in Australia generally and for many years the only pattern you could buy in Australia, manufactured by local and imported manufacturers. As a kid I can remember Dad bringing the first one Id ever seen home, it sure was better than axe splitting.



Ghosta I love that Nupla head geometry. The more and more experimenting I do the more I am finding there is a sweet spot on how long the wedge is and the relation to cheek width and angle of the wedge itself and finally weight. I am finding most mauls you can buy (or you find in garages across the USA) the wedge is too long and not wide enough at the widest point and not convex or at least flat ground along the cheeks.

Would you mind posting some dimensions of the head?
1.Edge to widest part of the cheek
2. widest width (across cheeks)
3. Length from: edge to Poll

Thanks a bunch if you can do this.



DSW said:


> Ive been thinking about adding an Isocore maul and a Stihl splitting Axe. They would be completely frivolous purchases. With my X27 I can easily split 85-90% of what I cut and the rest gets noodled by an 80cc saw that doesn't care how irregular the grain is. I can't see myself being more productive. But hey, i don't smoke, play the lottery, or buy women so if I want to splurge on a splitting tool I feel I've earned it.



DSW - If you do it a comparison would be very useful. I am also looking seriously at Stihl Pro Maul. I don't think there is a single shape out there that is mimicks this head geometry so it would be interesting to try. Actually i want to try all of them because they are made by Oxhead. =)


----------



## LondonNeil

OK so I've had a little chance to ply with the Stihl pro maul and I an offer some views. I will try to come back with photos in a few days, and a few more comments in due course.

Firstly what I have needs some explaining as its not clear on the Stihl sites what the pro maul/pro cleaving hammer actually is.
here on the US site https://m.stihlusa.com/products/hand-tools/axes/woodsplitmaul/ is the wood cutters maul, 6.6lbs and 33.5" of Ash. Also listed is the pro splitting maul https://m.stihlusa.com/products/hand-tools/axes/prosplitmaul/ which it says is also 6.6 lbs but has a large steel overstrike protetion on a 35" hickory stick. hmmm
Now the confusion starts, as the co.uk site has 3 versions http://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Produc...s-and-hammers/2996-20866/Cleaving-hammer.aspx
first is clearly the same as the US woodcutters maul, 3Kg (thats 6.6lbs) and 85cm (34") Ash stick. For a few pounds (sterling) more you get the same but with a Hickory stick, then third version is the pro 90cm (36") hickory sticked, steel overstrike protected and...3.8Kg head. that works out at 8.3lbs ..hmm is it the same as the US pro maul and if so which site is right, which wrong?
Well...I suspect it is the same but both are wrong/misleading. I may try and weight the head to prove this but I know the head is heavier than 6.6lbs. I have another 6lb hardware store maul and this stihl thing is far, far heavier. It may not be 3.8kg though...as the head is clearly marked '3.5' which i take to be Kg, or 7.7lb maybe the difference, the 300grams or 0.6ish lbs is the handle? maybe the others are actually 6lb head, 0.6lb handle? That's not what either site says but, perhaps. Anyway, mine is definitely the overstrike protected, 3 foot long handled heavy weight.

first impressions...its well made, and heavy. after the x27 its very heavy! handle is identical length BUT the stihl handle is MUCH MUCH fatter. I wandered if it would be hard to hold/too fat for my hands? I'm 5'11" with average size hands. A fat handle, heavy head, smooth varnished and painted hickory and very little flare at the butt...hmm. I need not have worried, its fine to hold. I should say i do my splitting wearing a pair of bicycling gloves, thin cordora (fake suede) and little grip markings on the finger tips...robust, thin, comfy, stops blisters and stops splinters. wearing these the stihl maul is comfy to swing. It is however heavy and not like the x27. its a very different effort to swing and personally I get tired out by it quickly, but then I'm new to this wood game, a year in I'm better but still no pro and not 'splitting fit'.... or is that I'm Stihl no pro? hehe! I do find it a satisfying swing though, which bring me to performance.

I don't get much hardwood, and so it was my first play was with some soft, some leyland cyprus which is generally easy to split, although this was some large diameter and tougher stuff, a round or 2 of some other pine or fir that is a bit tougher, and a round of horsechesnut (we call it conker) which althoug normally super easy, this particlar round had been hard enough to defeat my x27 and sat around for months and months. Using the stihl wasn't a hallelujah moment. there were still swings that didn't split first time. there were still swings that left the head stuck in the wood occasionally. however it was the big gun compared to the x27. I found it worked well to use the stihl for the first swing at a round, to pop it in one. where upon i'd swap to the x27 to work the halves down to small splits for my little stove. working that way i had the energy to go for a good session, yet seemed to get the benefit of the big stihl maul for that initial pop. It definitely has more power for the harder rounds.
So initial view, good tool for bigger rounds but its still a maul, it still sticks occasionally, it takes work to swing and occasionally it bounces.
I'll be back tomorrow with a review of my session with some monster gnarly Ash that i just got delivered.


----------



## LondonNeil

So a few words about me and the stihl pro maul vs some gnarly Ash. Remember I'm new to this wood game and get very little hard wood. I have split a couple of Oak trees worth though, both were approaching 2' dbh trees from my garden, one English oak, one European/turkey. So I have a little experience with a larger, harder round. Last week I contacted a local tree guy and got promised some arb waste, delivered. Tuesday night I got a call, he had some, and soon after I got maybe half a cord of freshly felled ash rounds tipped on the lawn costing me £50, about right for hard wood arb waste. I was excited by the prospect of some hard wood for my pile..... Until I saw it in the day light next morning. B****r, he'd clearly sorted all the straight grain stuff for himself and dumped me the b4st4rd bits. EVERYTHING is a crotch. Half of it is about 30" diameter and where the main trunk split into 2 by the look, and to top it off so far I've noticed barbed wire through 4-5 pieces. Hmm. Still I read ash splits well, and best green, so since much of this needs halving just so I can shift it to the back of the house last night i grabbed the stihl. I went about trying to split each heart of the big crotches, swinging the maul and striking in a line across the round. 10 all out round house swings per heart and...... Nothing. Bounce, bounce, bounce, bounce. I tried putting a round up onto another. Bounce. Bounce. Bounce. This stuff is iron (and my technique needs refining I think). To prove it is Ash I swung at a couple of smaller straight looking rounds, about 16" diameter.... The only straight looking ones delivered. POP! THANK THE LORD! A tiny fraction of manly self esteem restored I retired for the night..... Melting in our current mini heat wave ( 27 Celsius and 60%humidity at 9 pm).

I'm going to try some more yet, but I'm going to need my 4 wedges. Poo. I hate using them. This maul is still just a maul..... And limited by me I think!


----------



## Ronaldo

Time to use the saw and noodle some of the rounds down to a more manageable and splittable size! Watching for the wire, of course.


----------



## LondonNeil

oh poo. I just managed to bury 2 5lb twist wedges into a round as far as they would go, and pound on them some more, to no effect  and to add insult to injury, looking at more rounds closely i see more barbed wire. I got had, well and truly sh4fted! I think I'm going to be resharpening chain a fair bit as I noodle...slowly with a small saw.

On the plus side, trying the stihl maul with a different technique did deliver some success, yay! working to split chunks off the edge of the rounds I got somewhere and now have a couple down to moveable size and a way to deal with many others. I can also testify to the quality of the steel in the maul, having seen sparks fly from its edge once (dunno what was in the wood, looked at the split but saw nothing) and having split through a piece of buried barbed wire too, the edge is still perfect.


----------



## ghosta

waldtricki said:


> Ghosta I love that Nupla head geometry. The more and more experimenting I do the more I am finding there is a sweet spot on how long the wedge is and the relation to cheek width and angle of the wedge itself and finally weight. I am finding most mauls you can buy (or you find in garages across the USA) the wedge is too long and not wide enough at the widest point and not convex or at least flat ground along the cheeks.
> 
> Would you mind posting some dimensions of the head?
> 1.Edge to widest part of the cheek
> 2. widest width (across cheeks)
> 3. Length from: edge to Poll
> 
> Thanks a bunch if you can do this.



We are metric in Australia so you will have to convert-
1. 95mm.
2. 60mm
3.160mm
The nupla sit near my wood pile and is used to split fire starting wood, not kindling, but the first couple of smaller pieces on top of the kindling if small pieces are not handy in the woodpile when loading the wheelbarrow to fill the woodbox. Its nowhere as good as the Oregon for general splitting, that may be due to weight and the narrow edge, and the fact that the oregon has the v shaped lump on the side which is the biggest improvement to a normal blockbuster that ive seen, im surprised that i havent seen it on any other blockbusters on this forum. Beats the fancy fiskars girls splitter every time in our type of wood.
Back home on the farm splitting 1ft wood for mums wood stove the nupla head design was the bees knees, but for 16" wood it runs out of puff. I have a similar shaped blockbuster in my camper van for the odd bit of tough camping wood which 1 rehandled with a sheoak handle I made, a slightly longer handle.
Looking on the net I note Nupla are a US brand although this pattern does not still seem to be available. I bought mine for $10 at a garage sale.


----------



## Marine5068

ghosta said:


> We are metric in Australia so you will have to convert-
> 1. 95mm.
> 2. 60mm
> 3.160mm
> The nupla sit near my wood pile and is used to split fire starting wood, not kindling, but the first couple of smaller pieces on top of the kindling if small pieces are not handy in the woodpile when loading the wheelbarrow to fill the woodbox. Its nowhere as good as the Oregon for general splitting, that may be due to weight and the narrow edge, and the fact that the oregon has the v shaped lump on the side which is the biggest improvement to a normal blockbuster that ive seen, im surprised that i havent seen it on any other blockbusters on this forum. Beats the fancy fiskars girls splitter every time in our type of wood.
> Back home on the farm splitting 1ft wood for mums wood stove the nupla head design was the bees knees, but for 16" wood it runs out of puff. I have a similar shaped blockbuster in my camper van for the odd bit of tough camping wood which 1 rehandled with a sheoak handle I made, a slightly longer handle.
> Looking on the net I note Nupla are a US brand although this pattern does not still seem to be available. I bought mine for $10 at a garage sale.


We're all Metric here in Canada too(since 1970's), but we still use nominal numbers on most building materials and tools.
Gov't projects are all Metric however.


----------



## dancan

Done busted my favourite wedge


----------



## woodchip rookie

Is that stone?


----------



## dancan

LOL , nope , chinee version of a Wood Grenade .


----------



## Philbert

dancan said:


> Done busted my favourite wedge





dancan said:


> . . . chinee version of a Wood Grenade .


JB Weld?

Picked up a splitting wedge at a garage sale recently, that had mushroomed edges 1/2 to 3/4" all around the top. '_No problem_', I thought, '_I'll just trim those off with my cut-off saw."_ Wrong. It was some of the hardest steel I have ever tried to cut. Eventually got the edges cut off, beveled, and ground smooth. Also made in China. 

Ground so much off that I thought I would weigh it just for fun. Was marked '4 Pounds' - thought I might have made it into a 3-pounder. Checked it on my postal scale (pretty sensitive) and it came out a hair over 4 pounds. So it was a solid wedge, and weighed more than promised. Checked another '4-pound' wedge, in almost new condition, and it came in at 3#12oz. A similar looking '3-pound' wedge came in at 3#4oz. Lots of variation.

Philbert


----------



## Ranchers-son

X27 and isocore 8lb good combination. Pop em with 8lb clean up with x27. I really really like the way the isocore feels and swings!


----------



## woodchip rookie

I cant find either of those at any store in central Ohio. I have been looking for months. Where do you guys get these?


----------



## svk

woodchip rookie said:


> I cant find either of those at any store in central Ohio. I have been looking for months. Where do you guys get these?


X27 or the identical all black "super splitting axe" at Walmart or online from Baileys or Amazon. I believe most guys get the isocore online.


----------



## Ranchers-son

woodchip rookie said:


> I cant find either of those at any store in central Ohio. I have been looking for months. Where do you guys get these?


I live too far from city to shop stores, do most of my shopping online. Bought both my fiskars from Amazon, I'm a prime member so free shipping.


----------



## benp

Guys with the Isocores.......

Any updates after using for a while?

I was thinking I would like something a little heavier to swing.


----------



## benp

dancan said:


> There are some days that no matter what splitter you have , you get some of these .





svk said:


> Twice I've had silver maple that was twisted at almost a 45 degree angle with additional lighting bolt pattern in it. We split a bunch with a maul and sledge. Now it meets the hydro.



Any thoughts on what causes the twisting? Is it from wind?

I have had quite a few red and white oaks that were twisted. All were under 10" though.


----------



## Ronaldo

benp said:


> Any thoughts on what causes the twisting? Is it from wind?
> 
> I have had quite a few red and white oaks that were twisted. All were under 10" though.


I have heard that wind can cause the twisting, but I really dont know for sure.


----------



## Philbert

I'm sure that it's Hillary's fault. Or Obama's. Or maybe George W's. . . . . 

Philbert


----------



## woodchip rookie

benp said:


> Guys with the Isocores.......
> 
> Any updates after using for a while?
> 
> I was thinking I would like something a little heavier to swing.


Me too.


----------



## woodchip rookie

I think I may just grind a new shape on my cheap 8lb maul and see what it does. It was like a $25 deal so no loss really if I mess it up.


----------



## Ryan'smilling

woodchip rookie said:


> I think I may just grind a new shape on my cheap 8lb maul and see what it does. It was like a $25 deal so no loss really if I mess it up.



Just grind a little at a time. Most mauls can be reshaped into a much better tool, but don't get the metal too hot because it will lose its temper. If I'm grinding on tools especially reprofiling stuff, I like to get three or four tools lined up. I'll grind on one for a minute (or less depending on its total mass), then on next one for a minute, and so on. This gives the tools a chance to keep cool, and gives me something to do while I wait.


----------



## Ranchers-son

@benp I've had my isocore for a little over a month. Split three cords with it and my x27. It's very comfortable to swing no vibration when it bounces off. I worry about over swings or crooked splits breaking the handle so I switch to the x27 as soon as I know it can finish. So far so good!


----------



## johnnylabguy

I've been using mine exclusively lately. Mainly because I have big stuff. And even though it's ash its splitting hard. Partly because they're fresh cut but also because of the twisted grain u mention. They were yard trees with big limbs that have a lot of twist. I've always assumed from wind but I really don't know either. Hopefully with time and cold weather they'll pop better or I'll have to break out the dreaded gas splitter.


----------



## dancan

Isocore , get one , you won't regret it , I had a similar one from Garant , http://www.garant.com/tools/s/garde...-lbs-splitting-maul-with-fiberglass-handle-2/
I gave it away , it had a funny bounce/vibration at random which I did not like at all , the isocore feels is nice and dead like a wooden handle .
I found the textured grip too grippy at first but most of the dimpling has worn smooth so it's getting better , wood or the X series is nicer on the hands in that regard .
I'm not a big guy but I'll grab that one first to bust the big ones up , I run it the same way as my X25 ,split the rounds on the ground so I get max travel/speed of the maul , the hammer end is well hardened , hardly a mark on it from driving wedges .
I don't worry overstikes , that's what warranty is for and Fiskars is a great company to deal with .
Like I've said before , no buyers remorse on this one .
I'll ask some people that might know about spiral grain , I've seen it in many different species , both hardwoods and soft .


----------



## dancan

Who's gonna get this one to try ?


----------



## benp

Thanks for the feedback guys!!!!!

Definitely going to look into getting one. 

Alright, so the general consensus for the cause of twisted wood seems to be....


----------



## benp

dancan said:


> Who's gonna get this one to try ?





That's pretty interesting Dan. I don't really think the maul would of been any more work if they would of had the bungee/chain around the round also. 

It's also $285 bucks.


----------



## zogger

benp said:


> Guys with the Isocores.......
> 
> Any updates after using for a while?
> 
> I was thinking I would like something a little heavier to swing.





benp said:


> Guys with the Isocores.......
> 
> Any updates after using for a while?
> 
> I was thinking I would like something a little heavier to swing.


Go for it man, zogger approved! It's exactly what you would think, a normal fiskars, just mambo sized. Quality is there. Keep it sharp as usual and the sides cleaned and oiled with something


----------



## benp

Thanks Zog!!!

I was waiting for your input since I remembered you were one of the first guys to get one.


----------



## airwolf

benp said:


> Guys with the Isocores.......
> 
> Any updates after using for a while?
> 
> I was thinking I would like something a little heavier to swing.



I've had one for a week and used it on three separate splitting outings. It is a good compliment to the fiskars x27. I start by splitting pieces off the edge of a large round with the x27. When I encountered a spot that the x27 had trouble with, I would switch over to the heavier isocore. The isocore would generally bust through the tough spot in 1 to 3 swings. If I had continued to use the x 27 on the same tough spot, it might take me twice as many swings to bust through, or not at all. Once the tough spot is busted through, I switch back to the x27 because the isocore is more tiring to use. The isocore is too heavy to swing the same way I swing the x27. With the x 27, I swing for speed by starting with my hands far apart, and sliding my top hand down to meet the bottom hand throughout the swing. The extended orange grippy part of the isocore handle makes sliding the top hand while swinging more difficult. With the isocore, I lift the maul as high as possible with both hands at the base of the handle. The isocore is more powerful than the x27 because of the weight, but I can get a much faster swing with the x27. I would estimate that the isocore is about 1-1/2 times more powerful than the x27. The isocore handle seems slightly heavier than the x27's handle. It might be filled with vibration dampening foam, but I can't see inside the handle because there is a cap on the end of the handle. The isocore gets stuck in the wood much less than the x27 because of the wide flare of the isocore head. I purchased the isocore from Lowe's for $60. They had several in stock at my local store.


----------



## airwolf

dancan said:


> Isocore , get one , you won't regret it , I had a similar one from Garant , http://www.garant.com/tools/s/garde...-lbs-splitting-maul-with-fiberglass-handle-2/
> I gave it away , it had a funny bounce/vibration at random which I did not like at all , the isocore feels is nice and dead like a wooden handle .
> I found the textured grip too grippy at first but most of the dimpling has worn smooth so it's getting better , wood or the X series is nicer on the hands in that regard .
> I'm not a big guy but I'll grab that one first to bust the big ones up , I run it the same way as my X25 ,split the rounds on the ground so I get max travel/speed of the maul , the hammer end is well hardened , hardly a mark on it from driving wedges .
> I don't worry overstikes , that's what warranty is for and Fiskars is a great company to deal with .
> Like I've said before , no buyers remorse on this one .
> I'll ask some people that might know about spiral grain , I've seen it in many different species , both hardwoods and soft .


Like dancan, I also split rounds directly on the ground to get the most speed from my swings.


----------



## Streblerm

Isocore owner here. I don't use it much. It's not that I don't like it but it tires me out and my accuracy goes to **** after a while. It is overkill for most stuff. I usually swing the old style fiskars super split and actually I have been using the lighter fiskars splitting axe quite a bit. With good form it is amazing what it can split. 

It does have its place. It is a good heavy maul with a sharp edge and good geometry. It's nice that you can use it as a sledge. Now that I have developed good technique with the lighter splitting axe it is hard to go back to bashing wood with a heavy maul for long periods. That being said I would replace it with the same should it ever disappear.


----------



## svk

benp said:


> Any thoughts on what causes the twisting? Is it from wind?
> 
> I have had quite a few red and white oaks that were twisted. All were under 10" though.


I think field edge or lake edge trees are much more prone to twisting as they have to withstand much more wind than a forest tree.


----------



## dancan

benp said:


> That's pretty interesting Dan. I don't really think the maul would of been any more work if they would of had the bungee/chain around the round also.
> 
> It's also $285 bucks.



Watching those guys split wood with a maul or axe led me to believe that the 285$ gizzmo was perfect for them


----------



## Streblerm

dancan said:


> Watching those guys split wood with a maul or axe led me to believe that the 285$ gizzmo was perfect for them



My first thought was that in about the time it took to make one split and reposition the apparatus, I could've had the whole round split. 

I was also thinking that the way they were using it would be hard on the elbows and shoulders. Kind of like a fence post driver. Loose grip, throw, and release, not death grip and bash.


----------



## johnnylabguy

My neighbor wanted to borrow my Isocore maul tonight and caught me right as i was going to leave on my stupid but necessary jog by his place. I texted back that sure I'd drop it off on the way by. Now he only lives about 300 yards down the road but it was comical when the middle neighbor had to watch me running by with The Hammer of Thor in hand as he and his wife waited to pull out for dinner I suspect. . They waved but I can only imagine their conversation as I jogged by carrying that medieval looking tool. I'm starting to realize why they never come outside much.
Anyhow, as I returned back from my (very short) run I found my neighbor whaling away at a triple trunked ash round about 36" in diameter. He's in his twenties, in good shape, and a military guy, and has also seen how good the Isocore maul is first hand. But thaaats a bit much. Of course I cheered him on for another 37 wacks or so because I'm older and jealous (and kinda evil) until he about blew his muffler bearings. After he took his last swing with sweat rolling off his nose i offered to give it a go with my own jogger sweat dripping off my own (much hairyer) nostrels. I wish I could tell you that I busted it in short order. But after peeling about ten outside pieces of "the onion" off of it I told him that now we've made it more manageable for my gas splitter.
They do have their place. 
Although, he did call me the King of the Maul in amazement after my first five wacks knocked chunks off the outside of it! So at least one neighbor is not scared of me. And if you are wondering, I find that the gripped handle works best while jogging over the head with hands raised high. Just kidding. I like my quiet neighbors. But boy I wanted to so badly to watch his wife's face for kicks!


----------



## woodchip rookie

They probably thought you were just practicing something for halloween.


----------



## woodchip rookie

So work sent me to Lowes for some stuff. It was a location I had not been to. I had to get a mixing hoe for mixing concrete in a wheel barrow. I go down where the shovels n stuff are and my heart skipped. They had the Isocore on the shelf. Put a big wet log of maple on the block when I got home and "S.P.L.A.T."

I am going to be a SPLITTING MACHINE with this....


----------



## benp

Sweet!!!!!!!


----------



## woodchip rookie

I havent had a chance to really split much since I tried a couple pieces at my gf's house. I wonder how it will do on big dry ash.


----------



## woodchip rookie

Big damp ash rounds suck. I have read that ash splits easier wet. I beg to differ


----------



## benp

woodchip rookie said:


> Big damp ash rounds suck. I have read that ash splits easier wet. I beg to differ



That sucks dude. 

I've never had a negative experience with ash. Even when dealing with white ash when I lived out east. 

This is a piece of black ash that went pop with one hit. All ash for me goes pop the majority of the time.


----------



## svk

I've had some white ash that was impossible and other that split like red oak. Really depends on the tree.


----------



## dancan

I picked up a small load today , had a few rounds to to bust up so I figured I'd compare .







Today's winner was the ......






Surprised the heck out of me , the rounds of maple split easily regardless of what I used but the black spruce put up a fight .
Straight grain was still stringy and with a few knots it didn't want to part ways easily .






The GB would stick , the IsoCore seemed too blunt with the Ochsencopf being second best .
Not what I expected .


----------



## svk

Is it just me or are the pics missing?


----------



## dancan

Yup , might be missing for some , Google changed up my G+ to the newer and better smelling G+ to enhance my interwebz experience , FFS.... 
I've switched back so I'll repost when I'm back on the puter. 
Same happens when I post a pic from Picasa, some can see it, others can't. 

Mighty Mouse Logging LLC


----------



## woodchip rookie

benp said:


> That sucks dude.
> 
> I've never had a negative experience with ash. Even when dealing with white ash when I lived out east.
> 
> This is a piece of black ash that went pop with one hit. All ash for me goes pop the majority of the time.


No way could I split the ash I have if it were that long. I have 20" rounds that are only 12" long. When I get ONE round split apart it fills a whole wheel barrow


----------



## Ryan'smilling

woodchip rookie said:


> No way could I split the ash I have if it were that long. I have 20" rounds that are only 12" long. When I get ONE round split apart it fills a whole wheel barrow



I've had ash like that too. It's normally just about my favorite wood to split, but I bought some loads this spring from a tree service. There was some ash in there that was not splittable with a maul. Even pieces less than 14" in diameter were just about impossible. It was tight and stringy like elm. Ended up borrowing a splitter, which I very rarely do.


----------



## svk

After losing this axe several times in the past few trips to the woods I finally fixed it. It just blends in too well in all black.


----------



## Ryan'smilling

svk said:


> After losing this axe several times in the past few trips to the woods I finally fixed it. It just blends in too well in all black.
> 
> View attachment 535790
> View attachment 535791



Ever since I bought a logrite cant hook, my favorite color for stuff I'm bringing to the woods is robin's egg blue. Seriously, you can see that cant hook against any background. 

I've tried red and orange, but blue is the best IMO.


----------



## svk

Ooo purdy!


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> After losing this axe several times in the past few trips to the woods I finally fixed it. It just blends in too well in all black.


Funny - I had to put wood grain veneer all over my Fiskars' 'plastic' handle, just so that the purists would think that it cut better!

Philbert


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> Funny - I had to put wood grain veneer all over my Fiskars' 'plastic' handle, just so that the purists would think that it cut better!
> 
> Philbert


I still have the veneer you gave me as well...debating which tool I want to make "better".


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> I still have the veneer you gave me as well...debating which tool I want to make "better".


Maybe put it on a saw, so that you can 'sneak up' on a tree . . . 

Philbert


----------



## Retired

Y'All are a bad influence. I was at Lowe's last night and they had one IsoCore maul left, so I got it. I can't believe I bought another 8# maul...most of my splitting is done with a 4.5# axe. 

They had quite a few 10# Fiskar sledges left, and I'm kind of regretting that I didn't get one of those.


----------



## Marshy

Whike using my Isocore I did notice that it doesn't get stuck like normal mauls. It either splits or bounces. Yes, there is some wood that just needs to be noodled or hydro split. I also go to drive some steel wedge with the isocore and it works great.


----------



## woodchip rookie

I split even small stuff with it. I just lift it up a couple feet from the wood and drop it. I dont even have to swing. J can turn a 1/4 split into kindling right quick with it.


----------



## svk

I'm spending Saturday night at my uncle's place. I'll check out his arsenal, he may be getting an Isocore for Christmas.


----------



## johnnylabguy

Saw this at the local hardware store this morning. Anyone try one of these? 4.5 lb channel lock brand. Looks like a copy of another design. The edge was covered with a plastic cover but the corner I peeled off was terribly knicked up and rough. Enough to think it's just another rebadged Chinese piece but I didn't look to confirm.


----------



## Ryan'smilling

johnnylabguy said:


> Saw this at the local hardware store this morning. Anyone try one of these? 4.5 lb channel lock brand. Looks like a copy of another design. The edge was covered with a plastic cover but the corner I peeled off was terribly knicked up and rough. Enough to think it's just another rebadged Chinese piece but I didn't look to confirm.
> View attachment 539255




That's just goofy. Channellock is still a decent brand. What do they think they stand to gain from sticking their name on something like that?


----------



## tpence2177

johnnylabguy said:


> Saw this at the local hardware store this morning. Anyone try one of these? 4.5 lb channel lock brand. Looks like a copy of another design. The edge was covered with a plastic cover but the corner I peeled off was terribly knicked up and rough. Enough to think it's just another rebadged Chinese piece but I didn't look to confirm.
> View attachment 539255


Looks like the one I got from my local ace hardware. Mine is yellow and black though and just a knock off brand. I have nothing to compare it to, but it seemed to split ok. Going to look at my local Walmart for a fiskars super split axe since it's a x27 and see how it holds up to the fiskars. 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## Retired

Look back on pg. 50 of this thread, I use the Truper version of that quite a bit. If I have some big rounds that look like they'll split easy (cherry, ash, red oak), I'll save them back and split them by hand with that just to keep in shape.


----------



## svk

Yeah looks like a Truper. 

It's not uncommon to rebrand these for sales in different channels.


----------



## svk

I walked into Home Depot today planning to buy an Isocore and a couple of X15's but they didn't stock anything but the Fiskars hatchet. Ship to store is free though if I still want them next week.


----------



## tpence2177

svk said:


> I walked into Home Depot today planning to buy an Isocore and a couple of X15's but they didn't stock anything but the Fiskars hatchet. Ship to store is free though if I still want them next week.


That's pretty much how the home depot's stock stuff in Alabama too. No Makita chainsaws in store either. 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## svk

Just a heads up on the Fiskars chopping axes.

The Fiskars X15 and the rebranded Gerber XL Axe 2 ARE NOT identical to the all black Fiskars "chopping axe".

The X15 and XL2 are 23.5" long while the chopping axe is 28" long. I do not know if the heads are identical but I will verify that shortly.


----------



## svk

I just ordered a X15 and an Isocore. 

I will be running the Isocore head to head against the Husky S2800. Will be interested to see how that shakes out. Hoping things dont freeze solid by then as unfrozen wood is tougher to split than frozen wood is which will give more realistic results IMO


----------



## Ronaldo

Buying X15's as Christmas gifts?

In The Hills


----------



## svk

Ronaldo said:


> Buying X15's as Christmas gifts?
> 
> In The Hills


Yeah for myself


----------



## Philbert

Gotta get that tree out of the living room somehow . . .

Philbert


----------



## svk

What is a fair price to sell good, used axes? I have so many of them laying around.


----------



## Philbert

Price cut! 

Look around CraigsList. Maybe there are axe forums? 

Shipping could be a problem. Some people will not appreciate differences between a used Menard's ace and something 'collectable'. 

Philbert


----------



## LondonNeil

I'm starting to wonder about getting a Stihl universal hatchet. It would only be for splitting up kindling. As someone with a small stove it gets lit daily as there is no way to keep a fire in if I go out or overnight, so I do need a fair bit of kindling. Currently using a cheap box store hatchet, 1.1lb head and 14 or 15" fibre glass handle and tbh it works absolutely fine. I rather suspect the stihl hatchet couldn't do my kindling work any better and that I'm just lusting after something a little more sexy..... But then it's only £19 and Christmas is on its way. Had anybody got any experience with the stihl hatchet? And any comments, good or bad? It's this one I'm considering


----------



## dancan

Sorry , no experience with the hatchet but the splitting axe works very well , the black paint has worn off the handle on mine but construction is solid .


----------



## LondonNeil

Thought you did Dancan, one of your favourite splitting tools isn't it? Hmm, might have to remind Santa I've been a good boy this year..... Mostly.


----------



## zogger

My isocore is just starting to be very moderately loose head to handle. Not much but it is there, and I think I am the culprit. A few times I had to bash it through with a sledgehammer when it got stuck too bad to get it out.


----------



## benp

zogger said:


> My isocore is just starting to be very moderately loose head to handle. Not much but it is there, and I think I am the culprit. A few times I had to bash it through with a sledgehammer when it got stuck too bad to get it out.



I wonder if Fiskars would warranty it?


----------



## Ryan'smilling

benp said:


> I wonder if Fiskars would warranty it?



I almost guarantee that they will.


----------



## svk

Being that the back of it is a true hammer, they should warranty it.

I am wondering when mine will arrive, it's been in transit nearly a week.


----------



## svk

My Isocore and X15 arrived early this afternoon. Will try to put the Isocore up against my other splitting tools early next week.


----------



## zogger

benp said:


> I wonder if Fiskars would warranty it?


It's still completely useable, I just noticed a very very slight looseness. I am sure they might warranty it, but you aren't supposed to smash the back with a sledgehammer, only use the hammer end to drive wedges. So, even if it broke off, I wouldn't ask for a warranty.


----------



## DSW

zogger said:


> It's still completely useable, I just noticed a very very slight looseness. I am sure they might warranty it, but you aren't supposed to smash the back with a sledgehammer, only use the hammer end to drive wedges. So, even if it broke off, I wouldn't ask for a warranty.



Zogger, if it gets worse I would warranty it. Ive thought about getting the isocore just so I can be rougher than I am with my x27. As they advertise. There's cases of taking advantage of a warranty and I don't think you are guilty of that.


----------



## DSW

LondonNeil said:


> I'm starting to wonder about getting a Stihl universal hatchet. It would only be for splitting up kindling. As someone with a small stove it gets lit daily as there is no way to keep a fire in if I go out or overnight, so I do need a fair bit of kindling. Currently using a cheap box store hatchet, 1.1lb head and 14 or 15" fibre glass handle and tbh it works absolutely fine. I rather suspect the stihl hatchet couldn't do my kindling work any better and that I'm just lusting after something a little more sexy..... But then it's only £19 and Christmas is on its way. Had anybody got any experience with the stihl hatchet? And any comments, good or bad? It's this one I'm considering



Neil, I say get it. I also have a small stove and stock up on kindling. I have a brown handle Estwing, when I couldn't find it at one point, I bought another. Now I have two. I grew up on dull Wal-Mart hatchets and had a lot of fun with them and you're right, they do the same thing but there's something about a tool that looks so good it almost makes the work seem easier. 

And yes, that hatchet is sexy.


----------



## zogger

DSW said:


> Zogger, if it gets worse I would warranty it. Ive thought about getting the isocore just so I can be rougher than I am with my x27. As they advertise. There's cases of taking advantage of a warranty and I don't think you are guilty of that.


Appreciate the thought. I just wouldn't warranty anything I knew I had abused beyond the build spec/intended use. The looseness is very small and hasn't gotten any worse. it's built tough! It's now my fav after the original fiskars supersplitter.

Go ahead and get an isocore, it is much beefier than the x27 and should last a long time using it as a maul (and not a stuck wedge..). I got mine when I couldn't split at all for months due to wrist/elbow being worn out. Just the lessened shock from it got me back splitting. Worth every penny and then some.

With that said, i still would like something they don't sell yet. I would like the original supersplitter designed head, one lb heavier and that's it, and now on a 36 inch isocore handle/mount. Dang, that would be about perfect.


----------



## Jeffkrib

Hi Plowboy, The tree you cut was a river redgum, they are usually found growing along rivers on the planes. We do have Euc's which grow in the snow. The iconic sowgum.


----------



## Jeffkrib

Oups that should have gone in the wood pile/ splitting area thread


----------



## svk

I promised an Isocore/S2800 shootout but I'm sorry it's going to have to wait until spring. 

Real tough conditions (deep snow with partially packed snowmobile trail) made for tough traveling today. Only got one tree bucked and since the wood is frozen it's not nearly a challenge to split. 

Once spring rolls around I'll be ready to let these two duke it out for king of the hill.


----------



## Dieseldash

Look what Santa (the man in the big brown truck) left at my house:



The X27 is all it's cracked up to be. Fantastic piece of kit. Should of got one years ago.


----------



## NGaMountains

Super excited I just scored an Isocore at Tractor Supply for $47.99. They had a sign up by the axes and mauls that said 20% off, but dates were December 7-13, so I asked the manager when he was close by if that sale comes back around often. He says to me "not very often", rips the sign down and after a second or two pause says "but I'll give it to you". I think this is as close as I've been yet to deserving of a "You suck!" Gonna try it out later today.


----------



## svk

Great work!

I'll be using my isocore for the first time next week as well.


----------



## KG441c

I noodle all my larger rounds with a ported 390xp with a 28" Cannon and 404 skip and split the quartered rounds. After trying this Gransfors Bruks 445 large splitting axe I sold my X27


----------



## svk

Looks nice. More or less a wood handled Fiskars on steroids!


----------



## KG441c

svk said:


> Looks nice. More or less a wood handled Fiskars on steroids!


The x27 is awesome but I have a bad left shoulder and the x27 requires alil more swing speed and resonates through the handle more than the GB. Its much more forgiving and has alil more nuts than the x27 IMO


----------



## KG441c

Couple more GBs. The larger one is the GB 439 splitting hatchet which works well in makin smaller pine and the GB 425 Outdoor Axe is the small one


----------



## svk

What's the advertised head weight on your large splitter?


----------



## KG441c

svk said:


> What's the advertised head weight on your large splitter?


3.5 head I think. Total 5lbs


----------



## Wowzer

i was looking through the search on the Gardena splitting ax and wondering if someone has one, and what they like or dislike about it, it;s come up on my camelcamelcamel that it's dropped in my price range wondering if i should just go pick up another Fiskar, i already have the X27 and X17 really like them and i have the sharpener but it doesn't really work the greatest on miss hits that grab a nice stone..... haha


----------



## svk

Wowzer said:


> i was looking through the search on the Gardena splitting ax and wondering if someone has one, and what they like or dislike about it, it;s come up on my camelcamelcamel that it's dropped in my price range wondering if i should just go pick up another Fiskar, i already have the X27 and X17 really like them and i have the sharpener but it doesn't really work the greatest on miss hits that grab a nice stone..... haha
> 
> View attachment 547059


It's identical to the Husqvarna S2800 which is a superior splitting tool when compared to the Fiskars splitting axes. 

Some folks are scared of the 28" handle but after splitting many cords with it, I'm a believer.


----------



## Wowzer

svk said:


> It's identical to the Husqvarna S2800 which is a superior splitting tool when compared to the Fiskars splitting axes.
> 
> Some folks are scared of the 28" handle but after splitting many cords with it, I'm a believer.



i was wrong i have the X11 split Axe. i was looking at the Husqvarna, and the Garden for the fact that it did have 28" handle. I Really like the length on the Fiskar being at 36" but i find at times it's almost too long. i was looking to add something to the arnesal in the 28" range. but the price point is at 73.77 for the Gardena and 55.99 for the Fiskar 28" right now. just don't know if i should just wait it out to see if it will come lower or not.


----------



## KG441c

Lil Rusty Walnut on the right and left


----------



## Philbert

Very handsome tools.

Philbert


----------



## Rx7man

Has anyone used this?.. looks like a good idea for straight grain, hard woods.. I don't know if it would work in anything a little spongy like poplar


----------



## Philbert

Rx7man said:


> Has anyone used this?..


http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/the-traveling-leveraxe-leveraxe-2-thread.263669/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/leveraxe-has-made-a-full-circle.101533/

Philbert


----------



## svk

Rx7man said:


> Has anyone used this?.. looks like a good idea for straight grain, hard woods.. I don't know if it would work in anything a little spongy like poplar





Philbert said:


> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/the-traveling-leveraxe-leveraxe-2-thread.263669/
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/leveraxe-has-made-a-full-circle.101533/
> 
> Philbert


Philbert's links pretty much sum it up. You will need to wade through some bickering but my take on these tools is they work extremely well in straight grained wood and very poorly in tough wood. 

If you'd like to demo them they are currently hanging out in Iowa and we can arrange getting them to you.


----------



## svk

Wowzer said:


> i was wrong i have the X11 split Axe. i was looking at the Husqvarna, and the Garden for the fact that it did have 28" handle. I Really like the length on the Fiskar being at 36" but i find at times it's almost too long. i was looking to add something to the arnesal in the 28" range. but the price point is at 73.77 for the Gardena and 55.99 for the Fiskar 28" right now. just don't know if i should just wait it out to see if it will come lower or not.


I'd definitely pick one up for that price. Iirc retail is $100 and the best price I've seen otherwise is 79.99


----------



## Ronaldo

Rx7man said:


> Has anyone used this?.. looks like a good idea for straight grain, hard woods.. I don't know if it would work in anything a little spongy like poplar



Agree with svk's comments; short and straight grain wood they work pretty slick but longer and tougher pieces/species not so well.




This is a chunk of Oak about 18 to 20'' long and good splitting axe or maul would have been a much better tool.

In The Hills


----------



## svk

Ronaldo said:


> Agree with svk's comments; short and straight grain wood they work pretty slick but longer and tougher pieces/species not so well.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a chunk of Oak about 18 to 20'' long and good splitting axe or maul would have been a much better tool.
> 
> In The Hills


Just curious, do you prefer the original (on right) or the second edition (left)?


----------



## Ronaldo

I thought the original worked better.......maybe because it is a little heavier.

In The Hills


----------



## svk

Had nothing to compare it to but the Isocore busted up this ash like nothing.


----------



## Jere39

Still using my old hardware store maul with a fiber handle replacement from many years ago whenever I am splitting on the ground. For instance, when the rounds are too big for me to lift. Then, and my preference is a trusty x27 once I can get the blocks up off the ground. So, typically, when I work my way down toward the trunk, I halve them on the ground, then lift to a block. My hill top is very rocky, and this straight grained red oak pops pretty easy, and sure as I'd bet against it, I'll have on split easier than I expect and strike through to the ground, or the block I'm splitting on. I'd be re-dressing the edge of my x27 at least once per round if I worked it on the ground.


----------



## KG441c

If anyone is interested in the new Gransfors Bruks Splitting Hatchet on the left give me a PM. I have $170 in it and will take a reasonable offer if anyone is interested. Thanks


----------



## Gundy

I got an isocore this fall and love it for driving wedges and splitting more difficult pieces. I managed to split the head in 2 tonight hitting a wedge. We will see how fiskars warranty holds up. Can't believe I broke it.


----------



## Ronaldo

Gundy said:


> I got an isocore this fall and love it for driving wedges and splitting more difficult pieces. I managed to split the head in 2 tonight hitting a wedge. We will see how fiskars warranty holds up. Can't believe I broke it.


Wow, thats hard to imagine. I'll bet they take care of you and honor the warranty with no problems. Where in Iowa are you located?


----------



## hseII

svk said:


> After losing this axe several times in the past few trips to the woods I finally fixed it. It just blends in too well in all black.
> 
> View attachment 535790
> View attachment 535791



I tried, unsuccessfully, to loose the one I bought.

The 1st nice Council Jersey on the other hand, well, I had to buy another one....


----------



## Philbert

Gundy said:


> I managed to split the head in 2 tonight hitting a wedge. . . . Can't believe I broke it.


http://www2.fiskars.com/Support/Warranty-Claim-Form/49283

Philbert


----------



## hseII

KG441c said:


> If anyone is interested in the new Gransfors Bruks Splitting Hatchet on the left give me a PM. I have $170 in it and will take a reasonable offer if anyone is interested. ThanksView attachment 548809



The one on the right, what does it weigh?


----------



## Gundy

Im located by Indianola. Right across the road from another member on here who likes makitas. Thanks for the link Philbert, I was just getting ready to start doing some googling on that very thing.


----------



## Ronaldo

Gundy said:


> Im located by Indianola. Right across the road from another member on here who likes makitas. Thanks for the link Philbert, I was just getting ready to start doing some googling on that very thing.


I know exactly who this Makita\Dolmar guy is! Welcome to the site. 

Sent from my Z832 using Tapatalk


----------



## Gundy

I contacted Fiskars and they responded right away. They said they are happy to ship me out a replacement right away and when I get the new one to ship the old one back so they can inspect it for quality purposes.


----------



## Wowzer

svk said:


> Had nothing to compare it to but the Isocore busted up this ash like nothing.
> 
> View attachment 547387



I just picked one of these up at crappy tire today, question for you did yours come sharp or did it just come to a point more or less with a bit of a blunt edge to it? They had 4 of them in the store and none where half as sharp as an axe? Or is this just how they are supposed to be.

I'm going to try it out tomorrow on some big rounds hopefully


----------



## svk

I certainly couldn't shave with mine but it wasn't dull either. 

I've seen other brands of mauls in stores that looked like someone purposely ground the point off them as a safety precaution. This wasn't the case with mine.


----------



## Gundy

Got the replacement in the mail already, it was a very easy process to get the replacement. I would say the isocore isn't near as sharp as the X27 but it doesn't have to be. It seems to hold its edge better though.


----------



## Wowzer

svk said:


> I certainly couldn't shave with mine but it wasn't dull either.
> 
> I've seen other brands of mauls in stores that looked like someone purposely ground the point off them as a safety precaution. This wasn't the case with mine.





Gundy said:


> Got the replacement in the mail already, it was a very easy process to get the replacement. I would say the isocore isn't near as sharp as the X27 but it doesn't have to be. It seems to hold its edge better though.



you both didn't try and sharpen it, just used it as is?


----------



## svk

No I didn't. It was sharp enough to split well. Plus I split on the ground so it will need to be sharpened soon enough anyhow.


----------



## Gundy

Nope, it doesn't need to be sharpened. You can if you want but I don't know if it would gain you much.


----------



## Big_Eddy

I'll be honest - I've read most of the 59 pages of this thread, but perhaps not all of them. Apologize if this was covered and I missed it earlier.
What's the difference between the X Series X27 and the 36" splitting axe - other than the colour of the handle? I compared the Fiskars pages bullet by bullet and I didn't see anything that would affect the performance.


----------



## svk

Big_Eddy said:


> I'll be honest - I've read most of the 59 pages of this thread, but perhaps not all of them. Apologize if this was covered and I missed it earlier.
> What's the difference between the X Series X27 and the 36" splitting axe - other than the colour of the handle? I compared the Fiskars pages bullet by bullet and I didn't see anything that would affect the performance.


Nothing at all. Just distributed though different channels. X27 has rubber grip and splitting axe has texture in the handle itself.


----------



## Ronaldo

Brother, his son and I did some splitting today. All pieces were 20 to 24 inches long and most was Red and White Oak with a few Locust pieces too. Used Fiskars X27, X25 and a Husqvarna S2800 splitting axe. My brother prefers the extra length of the X27 and it does seem to generate more head speed. My nephew likes the 2800 and I probably prefer the X25. I started out using the shorter 25 and am very accustomed to it, so maybe that's why I like it better. The Husq 2800 does handle very well and had a bit more weight, but we all agree or tends to stick more. All told we split around 2 truck loads(dont have pics of all).












Sent from my Z832 using Tapatalk


----------



## 101mph

I know this is just preference, but I like the X27 with the Orange handle much better than the all black handle. The texturing on the all black handle Fiskars just feels weird and cheaper (quality wise) to me.


----------



## svk

There's a couple threads going regarding mauls and in particular the Fiskars Isocore. Being this is the main splitting thread I'll put my review here.

Put in a couple hours with the Isocore this morning and really liked how it performed. For hard to split stuff it certainly worked much better than the X27 or any traditional maul I've ever used and I'd say it's marginally better than the S2800 in the tough stuff.

With that being said it is an 8lb maul and comes with the drawbacks of having to swing a big heavy head. I'm pretty tired and since I have neck troubles I've got a pretty stiff neck which has developed into a headache after dozens of full power swings.

Shock/slap transmitted through the handle is minimal except when hitting a tough piece.

Overall it does work very well and well worth the $ in my opinion.


----------



## NGaMountains

svk said:


> There's a couple threads going regarding mauls and in particular the Fiskars Isocore. Being this is the main splitting thread I'll put my review here.
> 
> Put in a couple hours with the Isocore this morning and really liked how it performed. For hard to split stuff it certainly worked much better than the X27 or any traditional maul I've ever used and I'd say it's marginally better than the S2800 in the tough stuff.
> 
> With that being said it is an 8lb maul and comes with the drawbacks of having to swing a big heavy head. I'm pretty tired and since I have neck troubles I've got a pretty stiff neck which has developed into a headache after dozens of full power swings.
> 
> Shock/slap transmitted through the handle is minimal except when hitting a tough piece.
> 
> Overall it does work very well and well worth the $ in my opinion.



Thanks for the review. Hope you're feeling better again soon!


----------



## zogger

Old school DROP THE HAMMER!!!

OOOOOOODDDDDIIIIINNNNN!


----------



## svk

That tree was huge!


----------



## svk

Regarding Isocore metallurgy:

I've been splitting on the ground this week. Mostly mixed dirt and gravel but there's a little bit of cement too.

I've had a few blow throughs and hit the edge on the cement a couple of times. Literally the edge still looks like new. I know the X27 would have had chips by now and would have needed to be sharpened. 

I suppose since the Isocore is approved for hammering they used better steel all of the way through.


----------



## zogger

svk said:


> That tree was huge!




It's certainly turned into a long project! I might have to go scrounge up another one this big when this one is gone. I'm digging on the longer days now, can get out after dinner and do some more serious whackin. Those size rounds, once they are in 4-6 pieces, are all I can handle flipping them around, 2 to 3 times my body weight is about it anymore. Then the real splitting starts.


----------



## conarco13a

LondonNeil said:


> OK so I've had a little chance to ply with the Stihl pro maul and I an offer some views. I will try to come back with photos in a few days, and a few more comments in due course.
> 
> *Firstly what I have needs some explaining as its not clear on the Stihl sites what the pro maul/pro cleaving hammer actually is*.
> here on the US site https://m.stihlusa.com/products/hand-tools/axes/woodsplitmaul/ is the wood cutters maul, 6.6lbs and 33.5" of Ash. Also listed is the pro splitting maul https://m.stihlusa.com/products/hand-tools/axes/prosplitmaul/ which it says is also 6.6 lbs but has a large steel overstrike protetion on a 35" hickory stick. hmmm
> Now the confusion starts, as the co.uk site has 3 versions http://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Produc...s-and-hammers/2996-20866/Cleaving-hammer.aspx
> first is clearly the same as the US woodcutters maul, 3Kg (thats 6.6lbs) and 85cm (34") Ash stick. For a few pounds (sterling) more you get the same but with a Hickory stick, then third version is the pro 90cm (36") hickory sticked, steel overstrike protected and...3.8Kg head. that works out at 8.3lbs ..hmm is it the same as the US pro maul and if so which site is right, which wrong?
> Well...I suspect it is the same but both are wrong/misleading. I may try and weight the head to prove this but I know the head is heavier than 6.6lbs. I have another 6lb hardware store maul and this stihl thing is far, far heavier. It may not be 3.8kg though...as the head is clearly marked '3.5' which i take to be Kg, or 7.7lb maybe the difference, the 300grams or 0.6ish lbs is the handle? maybe the others are actually 6lb head, 0.6lb handle? That's not what either site says but, perhaps. Anyway, mine is definitely the overstrike protected, 3 foot long handled heavy weight.
> 
> first impressions...its well made, and heavy. ...


I'm gonna add some confusion to this.
i just went to a stihl dealer to get the maul but inadvertently came back with the "cleaving hammer". they are not the same product but are close cousins. the one i have has the stihl code 0000 881 2009. it also seems (from the pics i see in internet) to be the stihl AX30C. i found this name "cleaving hammer" googling the code mine has. basically is not as wide as the maul is. the head is supposed to weight the same 3kg (or 6.6pounds) on both models. the maul is wider and shorter. the hammer is thinner and the striking back is a bit longer (away from the handdle i mean). i dont think your are supposed to hit steel wedges with the hammer, only aluminum or plastic ones i underestand the maul on the other hand is abble to hit steel.
after saying that i have to tell you this thing looks like a maul!!
i think the handle is made of ash wood. the overall weight is 3.8kg (8.3pounds)
it has a nice finish but seems less of a luxury model. less labor involved than the maul i would say.
the angle of the cheeks is flatter than the maul.
i had the maul in my hands a few weeks before it felt lighter but it could be the handle difference (or just a better balance but i didn´t take a swing with the maul just lifted it from the floor).

now some pics to explain the confusion




that is the code





the head has some writting on it, is reads 3kg (the weight) and BH on the handle side and BX and B4 on the opposite side. the distance of the cheeks at the widest part is 6cm (2.36 inch)





the L is 202mm (7.95inch)
A is 5cm (2 inch)
C is 9cm (3.5 inch)
B is 6cm (2.36 inch)
E is 65mm (2.55 inch)






i´m gonna add more info later
so far i don´t think it can do anything that my argentine made splitting axe cant do. i wanna take it back and get the maul


----------



## dancan

Pics of the Argentinian axe ?

And welcome aboard !
We like pics btw


----------



## conarco13a

thanks

here are the stihl codes they might help someone










and here from the stihl german site





here is the axe and the stihl hammer side by side . its not pretty but works well, i never bothered to dress it. the finish is not smooth its not high quality work but the steel is good and is cheaper. turns out the measurements are almost identical!. same lenght and same width probably thats why i cant see any difference in the performance. but one important fact is that the axe is 4kg (8.8pounds) that should make a difference after a few swings you shouldt get as tired using the hammer.










the other axe is not mine, its lighter and thinner very old and very smooth. i use my axe as you would use a maul but i dont swing time after time like a maniac, if things are not happening i get the wedge and sledge out.


----------



## LondonNeil

I never did get any photos up did i? I'll try again. I've not done much splitting over the winter but what i have has confirmed my early opinion. I liked that my stihl pro maul has more oomph than the fiskars, but it isn't magical, is still a maul, and at 8lbs its hard work. I use it to break big rounds but reach for the x27 as soon as things get a bit smaller.


----------



## LondonNeil

I promised photos





b*****, stuck! but then even the fiskars stuck every swing in that ash.






as you can see, its the same length as the fiskars, maybe an inch shorter






the hickory handle is quite fat, fatter than the fiskars, but even my small to medium hands still grip it fine.






a very firmly attached head which has a very similar wedge angle to the fiskars. its clearly marked '3.5' which i assume is kilos. 3.5Kg is 7.7lbs. This is the big boy, the stihl pro splitting maul, or i think it is....its got the guard on the handle and its the right heavy weight, so i assume it is, but then i got it via ebay so can't be sure. product code for you






which according to the info posted above by conarco13a, its the 3.8Kg, 90cm hickory handled cleaving hammer. tbh i thought, and still do think, the cleaving hammer is just the european name for the maul, its the same tool.


----------



## LondonNeil

Oh i forgot to mention my hookeroon-ish

visible again here,





hookeroons are not a common tool in the UK and the only one i could find is the fiskars wood Xpert, at £47 that was too much to try out a tool. So after seeing some youtube video where a guy used a tiny looking pick axe i googled....its a mortar pick, designed to rake mortar from brick work before repointing. picked one up for about £10. I sharpened the point a little and it works great. handle could do with being a bit longer, its only about 14" but that's long enough to reach a split and pick it with just a slight stoop (I'm 5'11"), much better than reaching right down with both hands! a real back saver, picks up the above splits well, although I learnt, with oak spike the bark, its easier to get a firm pick.


----------



## cheeves

conarco13a said:


> thanks
> 
> here are the stihl codes they might help someone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and here from the stihl german site
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here is the axe and the stihl hammer side by side . its not pretty but works well, i never bothered to dress it. the finish is not smooth its not high quality work but the steel is good and is cheaper. turns out the measurements are almost identical!. same lenght and same width probably thats why i cant see any difference in the performance. but one important fact is that the axe is 4kg (8.8pounds) that should make a difference after a few swings you shouldt get as tired using the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the other axe is not mine, its lighter and thinner very old and very smooth. i use my axe as you would use a maul but i dont swing time after time like a maniac, if things are not happening i get the wedge and sledge out.


Really like the design of your Maul! Very similar to my old 7lb Stanleys I like! Secret is in the A design and sharpness! Like mine razor sharp!
Been splitting wood since I was a kid with a Boy Scout hatchet! Know what works! Have a very long back and soft head! LOL Makes for a natural born wood splitting combination!


----------



## svk

Walmart has these 8# mauls for $13. My uncle is newer to wood burning and doesn't have a maul to bust up big rounds before he puts them on the splitter. So I bought this to give to him. I had planned to find an old head to rehang for him but this was too good of a deal to pass up. 

The head has a nice shape so once I put a real edge on it, it should serve him well. 

The only issue is the price. 13 bucks even. Is that unlucky?


----------



## NW Wi

svk said:


> There's a couple threads going regarding mauls and in particular the Fiskars Isocore. Being this is the main splitting thread I'll put my review here.
> 
> Put in a couple hours with the Isocore this morning and really liked how it performed. For hard to split stuff it certainly worked much better than the X27 or any traditional maul I've ever used and I'd say it's marginally better than the S2800 in the tough stuff.
> 
> With that being said it is an 8lb maul and comes with the drawbacks of having to swing a big heavy head. I'm pretty tired and since I have neck troubles I've got a pretty stiff neck which has developed into a headache after dozens of full power swings.
> 
> Shock/slap transmitted through the handle is minimal except when hitting a tough piece.
> 
> Overall it does work very well and well worth the $ in my opinion.


I got the isocore to go along with the x27 about a month ago. I agree with what svk says. The isocore is good for tough stuff but after splitting 4 cords of red oak I find myself with the x27 in hand more often than not. Also just got the counsel tool pickaroon. It's a back saver. Wish I would have gotten one years ago.


----------



## LondonNeil

I'm sold on pickaroon/hookaroon/sappie as a back saver. I just ordered a long handled one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322461088503 can't wait!


----------



## svk

Got a chance to try out a Gransfors splitting maul today. (IIRC they have a 5 1/2 lb head.)

Quite impressed. They do a great job splitting and really have a smooth feel. The 32" handle feels just about right.

The one thing I noticed is it pretty much does the same job regardless of how hard you swing it versus the "new" splitting tools such as Fiskars or Husky S2800 which need a fast swing to be effective. 

Splitting side by side with the S2800, I'd have to say the performance was very similar. It was tough to get a read on which one might have the edge as we were splitting knotty white ash and the consistency varied quite a bit between the rounds because one might split in two hits and the next one took 6 or 8.

If you can foot the bill for one of these (now about $200) they are a great tool.


----------



## cheeves

svk said:


> Walmart has these 8# mauls for $13. My uncle is newer to wood burning and doesn't have a maul to bust up big rounds before he puts them on the splitter. So I bought this to give to him. I had planned to find an old head to rehang for him but this was too good of a deal to pass up.
> 
> The head has a nice shape so once I put a real edge on it, it should serve him well.
> 
> The only issue is the price. 13 bucks even. Is that unlucky?
> 
> View attachment 567604


Grind that edge down and go over with a good quality file! Get it so it will penetrate and then seperate!! 
I have 8#s but they take their toll! Prefer 7#s!


----------



## svk

Tried out the 13 dollar Ames maul from Walmart back to back with the Isocore. 

With an actual sharp edge I applied it works pretty well. Not as good as the isocore but good considering.


----------



## Philbert

You use what you got. But if you have a choice, might as well choose the one that works better . . . 

Philbert


----------



## cedarhollow

I found the 7.5 lb condor to be a back saver, it splits great and not too heavy


----------



## Homelitexl903

This is my first splitting tool review. I read the first 20 pages or so and the last couple pages. This review is based on my limited experience and low budget. I got a nice Fiskars X25 for Xmas. I think my wife paid around 40 bucks for it online. It came with a nice sheath/handle. It is very sharp from the factory and has a nice feel and finish. I like how it's lightweight and just needs speed to split a round. It does it's job well and can handle an over strike. I have had about a dozen over strikes with the fiskars that rattled my hands but no real damage to the handle. I borrowed my brothers Collins axe that was dull from box store purchase and tested it against the fiskars. First test was half rotted pine...both split first swing. Then came the rounds of applewood I cut last year. Collins axe took more swings and got stuck often. Fiskars axe was really awesome and proved to be better at this point. My overall opinion so far is instead of paying $20 for the Collins axe pay $40 for the Fiskars. The only advantage I can think of is the Collins axe can hit a wedge felling a tree or hit a splitting wedge.


----------



## svk

Very nice review! I've yet to have a chance to use a X25 but think they would be a nice tool to have!


----------



## rarefish383

[QUOTE="Homelitexl903, post: 6261332,The only advantage I can think of is the Collins axe can hit a wedge felling a tree or hit a splitting wedge.[/QUOTE]
I saw an ax handle under my shed the other day and climbed under and pulled it out. Then I saw why I tossed it under. I never use big mauls or sledges since I got my wood splitter, so I didn't have one down at the wood pile. I didn't have a saw at the pile either, and wanted to bust a big round in pieces I could lift onto the splitter. I saw an old wedge, and to save time getting the saw, I drove it in with a 4# Collins and cracked the head in half. I'll get a pic after i get a couple cups of coffee in my blood stream, Joe.


----------



## rarefish383

I think this was a Collins True Temper, I thought one bought the other out. It was red. One whack too many on something hard.





You can't see well from this side, but the head is not mushroomed at all. I seldom use an ax to drive something, but, sometimes I get too lazy to walk up my steep back yard to the shed. Especially if it's getting late in the day and I'm, tired, Joe.


----------



## Homelitexl903

Does anyone know if this is a Fiskars hatchet with a different name on it? I've seen some Gerber tools that are Fiskars and just wondering if anyone knew. Hatchet review coming tomorrow on my day off.


----------



## echomeister

Sure looks like it. The head shape and the way it mates to the handle.


----------



## svk

Even the "sheath" is identical.

Ozark Trail is Walmart's house brand and I'd postulate also Fiskars largest retailer. So they probably cut a deal to rebadge Fiskars as OT.


----------



## svk

rarefish383 said:


> I think this was a Collins True Temper, I thought one bought the other out. It was red. One whack too many on something hard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can't see well from this side, but the head is not mushroomed at all. I seldom use an ax to drive something, but, sometimes I get too lazy to walk up my steep back yard to the shed. Especially if it's getting late in the day and I'm, tired, Joe.


Makes you wonder if they were really wailing on it or if there was a defect in the metallurgy?


----------



## Philbert

Homelitexl903 said:


> Does anyone know if this is a Fiskars hatchet with a different name on it?



I think that they are the same, but the price on the Gerber hatchet is always much, much, more. 

Philbert


----------



## Homelitexl903

Philbert said:


> I think that they are the same, but the price on the Gerber hatchet is always much, much, more.
> 
> Philbert


Fortunately the price on the OT hatchet is less than Gerber or Fiskars prices. It has better features too in my opinion.


----------



## rarefish383

I did a search on "who makes OT" and it said they were made in India and Fiskars is still made in Finland. In a side by side pic, comparison one handle was a little longer and the heads were a little different, Joe.


----------



## rarefish383

svk said:


> Makes you wonder if they were really wailing on it or if there was a defect in the metallurgy?


I broke it a few years back and threw it under my shed. I forget if I got another ax stuck and tried to drive it through or if I found an old wedge by the wood pile and tried driving it . As I said there is no mushroom on the head. I would never put a full swing on an ax driving something, not enough metal there, Joe.


----------



## Homelitexl903

Estwing hatchet review. I will start with overall appearance. It is a very good looking tool. Nice and shiny and the stacked leather handle looks great. It came nice and sharp also. I got this hatchet with the purpose of it being a camp hatchet serving multiple purposes. It is great for splitting kindling which is mostly what I've used it for so far. I did chop down some very small trees to test it out and it performed good. I've used the back side of the hatchet to hammer in some fence posts around the garden and to tap in some wedges while bucking an awkward tree in the woods. I can see it being useful for camping tent stakes and even being broad enough to hit nails. I like how it seems indestructible in design and the only thing it might ever need one day is a new leather handle. My only complaint is it had multiple things on it saying it was American made but had a sheath on it made in another country. I plan on having a friend make me a leather sheath for it.


----------



## Homelitexl903

Ozark Trail hatchet review. From the information I collected this is a copy but not a rebadged Fiskars X7. Studying the OT then going to homedepot and inspecting the X7 this seems true. Anyway onto the Ozark. It has a sharp edge and good splitting head design like the x7. Same sheath/carry handle design. Two things I like more than the x7 are for one the price. 15 compared to 25 dollars. Second is the handle has a better feel and a thicker more textured softer rubber grip. Now for using it in the field I can only compare it to my Estwing hatchet not the x7 because I don't own one. For kindling splitting this tool is great. I don't put much effort into kindling, usually one handed swings with the estwing and ozark trail and sometimes both get stuck halfway then I just pick up the hatchet with wood still stuck in and slam it down to finish it off. The estwing needs this done a little more than the ozark trail. Not a big deal and both are good for the casual kindling task but when it comes to chopping a small tree down or cutting a limb in half the Ozark out performs the Estwing. For a fair comparison test I used both hatchets in the same piece of wood and did a dozen swings to see how they performed. The pictures show that the Ozark trail made it further into the wood and removed more chunks every swing than the estwing. Overall opinion is it's a nice cheap hatchet and works well but if I had to pick just one hatchet it would be the estwing because it can cut and hammer things and will last longer. I give both hatchets two thumbs up and don't regret either purchase.


----------



## svk

Hey guys. Doing a refurb on my great grandparent's axe. Looking for some feedback on color schemes.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/great-grandparents-axe-refurb.310759/


----------



## svk

I've watched a few of Buckin Billy Ray's videos and noticed he leaves the handle about 1/4" about the top of the head. I'm assuming this helps with wedging and locks the head on a little more? Does anyone else do this?


----------



## Philbert

Looks 'unfinished'. 

Philbert


----------



## rarefish383

I have a couple double ax's that are pushing 100 years old with the original handles and they are flush and look good. I figure those folks that really used them knew how to hang them, Joe.


----------



## dancan

svk said:


> I've watched a few of Buckin Billy Ray's videos and noticed he leaves the handle about 1/4" about the top of the head. I'm assuming this helps with wedging and locks the head on a little more? Does anyone else do this?



I've set mine like that for several years but not quite a 1/4" .
I also chamfer the top edge to give it a "finished" look .


----------



## rarefish383

This is my favorite "How to hang an ax handle" guide, Joe
https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfpubs/pdf99232823/pdf99232823Pdpi72pt05.pdf


----------



## svk

Here's some victims err I mean test subjects to do a little rust removal and hand rubbed finish so I can hone my skill before I do the grandparents axe.

The standard axe is one I rehung for the guy a couple years ago.


----------



## Philbert

'Yeah' he said, 'I have to put a new handle on that . . .'

Philbert


----------



## abbott295

For some reason, I am reminded of the novelty song, "Does your chewing gum lose its flavor on the bedpost overnight?"


----------



## svk

In the vinegar. I'm hoping a gallon will have enough vitality to descale two axes and a hammer.


----------



## rarefish383

Philbert said:


> View attachment 588247
> 
> 'Yeah' he said, 'I have to put a new handle on that . . .'
> 
> Philbert


Philbert, I wondered where the leg to my favorite table went? I think it looks better there, Joe.


----------



## svk

Going camping tomorrow. Realized I forgot my new Fiskars X15 at home so the Hudson Bay axe from the cabin will probably get the nod.


----------



## svk

To get back on topic of a review thread, here's my Hudson Bay pattern axe. This really chops nice and with significant authority for being so light. Does a decent job splitting too. 

Down side is that with the small amount of holding wood, the head wants to walk off the handle. I'm going to re-hang it this fall and leave a little handle past the top of the head and then really wedge it good to see if I can solve that problem.


----------



## svk

Making black cherry chips for my neighbor's smoker this morning with this little guy. 

Splitting dry black cherry isn't so easy until you get it quartered lol.


----------



## LondonNeil

talking of rehanging reminds me I didn't review my bison pickaroon (post #1188 has a iink). Well the head is good and it picks up rounds well but I've found it isn't so good for picking up splits and I stick to the mortar pick for that. That handle was awful though, cheap softwood judging by the grain spacing, thick and heavy and grain perfectly out of alignment. On the plus side, it broke quickly, so this week I rehung it on a hickory handle. a cheap ebay buy, grain couldn't be any further wrongly aligned, but it tight, its slender, it feels so much better and I seemed to get the head hung super tight (beginners luck). I have however done the typical pickaroon thing and drilled through and added a screw. Today it got 2 coats of BLO....I'm quite proud if my first ever rehandling.


----------



## svk

Cool. We love progress pics if you have any.


----------



## LondonNeil

I'll get some finished photos. Handle has had about 8 coats of BLO, been soaking it up!

I'll have something new to review soon as I just ordered one of these
http://www.gardena.com/int/products/tree-shrub-care/axes/1400a/967330401/

You may think it looks familiar.... You've got the big brother haven't you Steve? Picture it with an orange handle. Gardena is part of husqvarna and it appears to me they've just changed the colour and swapped the 'a' or 's' designation to after the gram weight number. Even the descriptions are identical to the husky ones. I ordered the gardena as I found it for a bargain price of £30. Mine should be turquoise and black, I suspect the grey and black is a recent colour change and mine is old stock being dumped, but just guessing. I want something short and light for easy splitting stuff, hope this will do.

So the stable has a stihl 8lb pro maul, fiskars x27 splitting axe and soon a husky/gardena universal axe. Maybe I need a wettlings, Hultafors or GB kindling hatchet


----------



## svk

Yes I have the larger 2800. Love it!

If that works as well or better than the similar Fiskars chopping tools then you are in for a treat.


----------



## LondonNeil

grrrr, had my order cancelled and refunded, I guess they had no stock.

After a lengthy search I ended up ordering a fiskars x17 as the cheapest tool I know I'll love. £35, at the same price I found a hultafors trekking axe, tbh that was appealing, it looks like sex on a [hickory] stick, but its not really the splitting tool that I'm after and also as much as there's nothing like a good piece of hickory, rubbed with BLO, I also appreciate a strong and well damped Polyamide handle, particularly with a lifetime warranty.


----------



## svk

Just so you know the X17 is the splitting axe and the X15 is the chopping style. Assuming you wanted a light splitter.


----------



## LondonNeil

yes, a light splitter is what i want. tbh my cancelled order for the universal a1400 may have been good and my extended search was both about price and 'the right tool' again. It had me looking at the a1400 and the slightly heavier splitting s1600 but couldn't find either for less than £40, the s1600 a few pounds moe. The splitter is what i want though, and am sure the x17 will be every bit as good as the x27 (minus some big oomph of course)


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> yes, a light splitter is what i want. tbh my cancelled order for the universal a1400 may have been good and my extended search was both about price and 'the right tool' again. It had me looking at the a1400 and the slightly heavier splitting s1600 but couldn't find either for less than £40, the s1600 a few pounds moe. The splitter is what i want though, and am sure the x17 will be every bit as good as the x27 (minus some big oomph of course)


I'm curious to try the 17 and 25


----------



## LondonNeil

There's an x21 now too, to fill the gap. Recognizing that no one can have the complete stable and swap to the perfect tool for each round, I wanted a good spacing, something light to really rattle through the few times I actually get easy splitting stuff.


----------



## svk

Cool, didn't even notice that. I will say the X15 is no slouch for splitting straight grained stuff either.


----------



## stihlaficionado

Any tips on what to use to touch up a few spots on my X27?

Fine to medium honing stone?


----------



## svk

Stone is best. Cavemen like me use a bench grinder.


----------



## LondonNeil

I just use a file, it's fairly soft metal on mine at least and a file sharpens it in no time


----------



## Philbert

stihlaficionado said:


> Any tips on what to use to touch up a few spots on my X27?


I had a couple of small dings in mine (neighbor hit the dirt - felt really bad about it). Polished them right off, and renewed the edge, with these:

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...nding-and-drive-link-deburring-wheels.284866/

Philbert


----------



## dancan

An ad popped up , 10$ , I got on the phone asap and struck a deal 
Should have it sometime tomorrow .


----------



## Ronaldo

dancan said:


> View attachment 594125
> 
> 
> An ad popped up , 10$ , I got on the phone asap and struck a deal
> Should have it sometime tomorrow .


What brand, do you know?

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


----------



## dancan

Don't know what brand till I get it , it was a British fella , he brought it with him 20 years ago when he moved to Canada .
He wanted to see it go to someone that would use it .


----------



## Marshy

dancan said:


> View attachment 594125
> 
> 
> An ad popped up , 10$ , I got on the phone asap and struck a deal
> Should have it sometime tomorrow .


I like the hook, good for rolling over standing rounds. I think you stole it.


----------



## Marshy

stihlaficionado said:


> Any tips on what to use to touch up a few spots on my X27?
> 
> Fine to medium honing stone?


Flat file removes material well in them.


----------



## LondonNeil

@dancan that maul looks very like the stihl cleaving hammer, altough its not an unusual shape i guess. i find mine heavy (do i see an 8lb marking?) but good to smash big rounds that the fiskars bounces off.


----------



## svk

Finally got to break out the X15 that has been in the garage for over a year. Although I only split versus chopped with it, I'm glad it finally saw wood anyhow. 

I've used its sibling, the all black "Fiskars chopping axe" quite a bit. The X15 has the rubberized grip and a shorter handle. 

I'm not sure if I prefer the longer or shorter handle yet. But the rubberized grip on the X-series is definitely superior to the molded plastic on the basic model. 





(Orange tape added to the basic model as it's very easy to lose in the woods otherwise.)


----------



## LondonNeil

Interesting, that older axe looks more like the length of the x21, 709mm, 28.5". I just noticed, found those details on fiskars.co.uk but it's not on the .com. Has it not arrived over there? Frustrating we still don't get the isocore either.

Did you use 1, or both hands on the x15 Steve?
I'm still waiting on the postmen for my 17.


----------



## svk

Definitely two hands but you could one hand it for light duty. Really has a nice feel.


----------



## svk

Well I found a blowdown balsam to try them out head to head.

I'm going to have to stick with the longer handled, all black version as the superior chopping tool. That 5 inches of length gives a better swing and just feels right. 

The X15 is still a great tool and will get the nod for canoe camping as the shorter handle will tuck into the pack better. 

The X15 with its new razor sharp edge cut noticeably better than the other version that's seen a year of abuse. I'll have to give that one a once over with a stone or file.


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> (Orange tape added to the basic model as it's very easy to lose in the woods otherwise.)


 Try finding one with a veneered handle!

Philbert


----------



## LondonNeil

Oh those limited edition hickory handled ones, they're hard to find but so nice to use!


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> Try finding one with a veneered handle!
> 
> Philbert


I still have the veneer you mailed me back during the heated Fiskars wars.


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> Interesting, that older axe looks more like the length of the x21, 709mm, 28.5". I just noticed, found those details on fiskars.co.uk but it's not on the .com. Has it not arrived over there? Frustrating we still don't get the isocore either.
> 
> Did you use 1, or both hands on the x15 Steve?
> I'm still waiting on the postmen for my 17.


Looks like the X21 is a Europe only product. 

I just don't understand why Fiskars doesn't offer all of their products everywhere.


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> I just don't understand why Fiskars doesn't offer all of their products everywhere.


Marketing.

Same reason most stores do not carry the full Fiskars (US) line.

Philbert


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> Marketing.
> 
> Same reason most stores do not carry the full Fiskars (US) line.
> 
> Philbert


Do they think those other models will not sell here?


----------



## Philbert

I don't understand why STIHL made an MS230 and an MS250; an MS650 and an MS660; why Dolmar makes 6+ saws that are identical, aside from 'dumbed down' P&Cs. But they are all richer than I am.

Why aren't arctic handles available in every country? Why are some saws sold only with tool-less tensioners in some countries, but only with bar nuts in others? Why do women insist that the toilet seat always be down?



svk said:


> Do they think those other models will not sell here?


Are they all made in the same country - Fiskars is an international company?

I suppose that there are some costs for advertising, stocking, carrying additional models. Maybe they are concerned about introducing confusion? Is it a niche that competes with their (always more expensive) Gerber line? Why is the ocean always near the shore?

Philbert


----------



## svk

Good points. I see the reasons for more models to increase sales (niche or perceived niche) but not less. 

Although I know for a fact that many corporation's ranks of middle management are full of butt kissers and "yes-men" who are not necessarily the brightest bulbs in the box and are only in their jobs because of who they know. And that is often where these dim witted decisions come from.


----------



## LondonNeil

When I messaged fiskars uk to ask if the isocore would be available here I was told , 'No' and it made me think fiskars uk (or europe) may be quite a different company almost from the US fiskars, no idea though, just a feeling.

Maybe I should set up as the UK end of an arboristsite Fiskars world wide supply network, X21s go West across the Atlantic, isocroe importation East across the pond.


My X17 arrived today, I'm looking forward to trying it. first impressions it feels heavier than i expected so I'm sure it will split nicely, definitely a 2 handed tool though! edge isn't razor sharp like my x27 was out the box, but It won't take long to file it up


----------



## Homelitexl903

LondonNeil said:


> When I messaged fiskars uk to ask if the isocore would be available here I was told , 'No' and it made me think fiskars uk (or europe) may be quite a different company almost from the US fiskars, no idea though, just a feeling.
> 
> Maybe I should set up as the UK end of an arboristsite Fiskars world wide supply network, X21s go West across the Atlantic, isocroe importation East across the pond.
> 
> 
> My X17 arrived today, I'm looking forward to trying it. first impressions it feels heavier than i expected so I'm sure it will split nicely, definitely a 2 handed tool though! edge isn't razor sharp like my x27 was out the box, but It won't take long to file it up


Any idea what the difference is between the x25 and x21?


----------



## LondonNeil

Taken from fiskars.co.uk

x25 splitting axe XL - 
Width
235 mm
Length
774 mm
Height
45 mm
Weight
2400 g

x21 splitting axe L
Width
165 mm
Length
709 mm
Height
36 mm
Weight
1600 g

X17 splitting axe M
Width
165 mm
Length
600 mm
Height
36 mm
Weight
1500 g

So could it be the x21 is the same head as the X17(based on the width and height it could be), but on a longer handle, 28.5" to 24" (longer handle accounting for the extra 100grams)? Anyway, its quite a bit lighter and shorter than the X25.


----------



## Homelitexl903

Philbert said:


> I don't understand why STIHL made an MS230 and an MS250; an MS650 and an MS660; why Dolmar makes 6+ saws that are identical, aside from 'dumbed down' P&Cs. But they are all richer than I am.
> 
> Why aren't arctic handles available in every country? Why are some saws sold only with tool-less tensioners in some countries, but only with bar nuts in others? Why do women insist that the toilet seat always be down?
> 
> 
> Are they all made in the same country - Fiskars is an international company?
> 
> I suppose that there are some costs for advertising, stocking, carrying additional models. Maybe they are concerned about introducing confusion? Is it a niche that competes with their (always more expensive) Gerber line? Why is the ocean always near the shore?
> 
> Philbert


I wonder sometimes why if you want a good husqvarna but don't like orange your only option is Jonsered. I bet a lot of people would like a pro husky in green poulan colors or yellow mcculloch. As far as I know the new mcullochs are only sold in other countries and not pro saws. I bet the only reason the new Homelite china junk company is still in business is because people remember there dad or grandfathers running a nice one and remember the name.


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> When I messaged fiskars uk to ask if the isocore would be available here I was told , 'No' and it made me think fiskars uk (or europe) may be quite a different company almost from the US fiskars, no idea though, just a feeling.
> 
> Maybe I should set up as the UK end of an arboristsite Fiskars world wide supply network, X21s go West across the Atlantic, isocroe importation East across the pond.
> 
> 
> My X17 arrived today, I'm looking forward to trying it. first impressions it feels heavier than i expected so I'm sure it will split nicely, definitely a 2 handed tool though! edge isn't razor sharp like my x27 was out the box, but It won't take long to file it up


Don't you guys have access to Fiskar's series of "spalthammers" which are 3900 and 4600 gram mauls? UK had them as of two years ago as I almost had a buddy buy one and send it to me.


----------



## dancan

dancan said:


> View attachment 594125
> 
> 
> An ad popped up , 10$ , I got on the phone asap and struck a deal
> Should have it sometime tomorrow .





LondonNeil said:


> @dancan that maul looks very like the stihl cleaving hammer, altough its not an unusual shape i guess. i find mine heavy (do i see an 8lb marking?) but good to smash big rounds that the fiskars bounces off.



I got it today 
3kg so 6.sumthin pound head .
I forgot it at the shop so pics tomorrow 
I'd say it's the Stihl 85cm 3000g cleaver .


----------



## dancan

Might be the Ochenkopf version .
10 Canadian Kopecks delivered to my door , cheaper than a pack of smokes


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## Ronaldo

dancan said:


> Might be the Ochenkopf version .
> 10 Canadian Kopecks delivered to my door , cheaper than a pack of smokes


And better for ya! 

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


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## LondonNeil

Nice deal Dan!

I can find the fiskars spalthammer to buy, although had to hunt. It's a fiskars.eu tool, not on the co.uk site. Sellers I found were from Europe. Seems like another fiskars company!


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## LondonNeil

#*@#! I'm not a fan of short axes. First swing, hit my shin! Currently in A&E waiting for, and think, stitches in a 3cm cut. What a fool.


----------



## svk

Yikes! Sorry to hear man.


----------



## Ronaldo

LondonNeil said:


> #*@#! I'm not a fan of short axes. First swing, hit my shin! Currently in A&E waiting for, and think, stitches in a 3cm cut. What a fool.


That is a common problem with the short handled axes. You are not the first!

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## LondonNeil

Just feel such a fool as I thought I knew how to split safe. Still, my wood guy has just promised to get me a new, taller chopping block. Every cloud has a silver lining. I'm going to be very wary of that x17 now though.


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## LondonNeil

The NHS my be on its knees through underfunding, but it seems it can still do an x-ray, tetanus and 3 stitches in 2.5 hours. Thankfully.


----------



## LondonNeil

ok, something useful for you maybe. this is the bison hookaroon, rehandled now with a nie slender hickory stick which feels much lighter and improves the tool no end, i am amazed the diffence a handle makes, its so much more balanced with a lighter handle. x27 for scale





it easily picks up rounds like that one and saves the bending to reach with 2 hands. Note the screw i drilled through the head.





the new handle has awful grain orientation but heyho. think i got a lovely tight fit, doesn't feel like it will come loose and i've been using it a good bit.

now the fiskars x'shinslicer'17





smaller head, shorter handle than the 27

This was to be the 'before' and i planned and 'after' showing a neat split, or an embedded axe. It didn't go to plan and I'll spare any gory after...for now.





how the f*** did i miss the block as well!


----------



## dancan

Your pics are broke 
I got my 10$ maul home today 






The owner sent me a note 






And I thot it was a British accent when I spoke with him , I was close


----------



## LondonNeil

*#£&! I'll fix the photos tomorrow.

Great maul Dan. I suggest you fit a long handle.


----------



## dancan

I'm fine with the shorter handle , lots of experience with my x25 , besides , there's no way a Scott would change out a perfectly good and usable handle lol


----------



## LondonNeil

Pics fixed? I can see them.


----------



## svk

Yup


----------



## LondonNeil

They say when you fall off a horse you should get back on quickly don't they, so, I set to it again with the shinsplitter. To give me some confidence I donned some more PPE, my mountain biking knee and shin pads! I also went with a low block and crouched down, so misses would hit the ground. I went to some green holly at about 1' diameter, halved or quartered it first with the x27 then used the shinsplitter to get to my small stove size. Also tried a bit of sycamore and some lawson cypress. All fairly easy splitting stuff although the holly is quite knotty/full of dead branches. the shinsplitter is razor sharp. it wasn't out the box but took just 2 mins with the file to get it hair shavingly sharp. it sliced, it cut through wood well, and it split well. Its as good a tool as you'd expect, or better. is it less effort than the x27? yes. Is it any less tiring? well, if i was confident, standing not crouching and familiar with the tool, probably, until then its still a work out, just a different work out.

Oh and as for the shin pads, a very old pair of Kona launch pads, very comfy for both wood splitting and riding, have saved me from countless cuts, bumps and gravel rash, and i suspect would have saved me last Friday. For now they will be part of my splitting PPE. They are also no bad for diy jobs where you are kneeling lots, such as flooring jobs. My pads are getting old now, th elastic straps are getting stretched, but although i don't do much biking at all these days, I'd get some new pads for diy and wood splitting uses.


----------



## rarefish383

Homelitexl903 said:


> I wonder sometimes why if you want a good husqvarna but don't like orange your only option is Jonsered. I bet a lot of people would like a pro husky in green poulan colors or yellow mcculloch. As far as I know the new mcullochs are only sold in other countries and not pro saws. I bet the only reason the new Homelite china junk company is still in business is because people remember there dad or grandfathers running a nice one and remember the name.


I don't check this thread much, not much interested in new chopping tools, but the Homelite story is a sad one to me, I guess the Mac's are the same way. I have at least 20 of them in the shed, the number goes up and down. I still have two of my Dad's Super 1050's, a pile of XL 12's, an XL 923,924,and 925. Would like an XL 955. I wonder if all the Red stuff made for Harry Homeowner today could do the work of the ones in my shed alone, Joe.


----------



## rarefish383

Neil, I'll have to go back and find the details on the shin splitter. I think I posted this a couple weeks ago, somewhere? I was splitting Oak on the hill behind my house. It's too steep to use my splitter, so I was using the Fiskars. Split a block, toss the pieces on the trailer, split, repeat. I set the Fiskars down on the slope above me, arms length away. Was tossing splits and felt something nudge my ankle. Looked down and the Fiskars slid down the hill and was stuck in my ankle. I was wearing my typical summer splitting clothes, t-shirt, shorts, crocks, with short running socks. The axe slid down the hill and just barley missed the top of the sock and came to rest in my ankle. No real harm done, but it impressed on me just how sharp that axe is. It made a little cut that looked like a razor did it. It didn't hurt so I wrapped some gauze around it and went back to work. Bled just enough to make the gauze look soaked. My neighbor gave me a Red's Apple Ale to dull the pain, actually, he always gives me a Red's. His wife went white as a ghost when he pointed at my ankle, I have been wearing higher socks lately, Joe.


----------



## Philbert

rarefish383 said:


> . . . the Homelite story is a sad one to me, I guess the Mac's are the same way.





Philbert


----------



## rarefish383

Is that a 955? Glad to see you're flying it just under the American flag. Or, are you hanging it? Oh, I think I see what happened. Someone dropped it and your trying to pull the 30" bar out of the ground, Joe.


----------



## LondonNeil

Ouch! Yeah they take a good edge.


----------



## tpence2177

LondonNeil said:


> Ouch! Yeah they take a good edge.



Your definitely not the first or the last. Hit my foot with a 4.5 pound splitting maul last year. Kept working for another 3.5 hours till I couldn't walk anymore and thought I was going to have to cut my boot off due to swelling ( not steel toe). No breaks though and a couple days on crutches and I was back to new. Handle was too short and I was splitting too thin of a piece for that maul. Went and bought the fiskars super splitting axe (all black x27) and have only used it since. Still crouching down just to not have any chances of hitting my foot anymore lol. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## svk

Found in a pawn shop. Assuming this guy was splitting on cement?


----------



## Ronaldo

wow!


----------



## LondonNeil

tpence2177 said:


> Went and bought the fiskars super splitting axe (all black x27) and have only used it since. Still crouching down just to not have any chances of hitting my foot anymore lol.



you need to crouch with an x27? How tall are you?!


----------



## tpence2177

LondonNeil said:


> you need to crouch with an x27? How tall are you?!



I don't have to lol but I'm like six one or six two


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## svk

Family photo!

Here's my collection from the hunting cabin. Noticed I'm a little short in the hatchet department. Will need to change that. 



This fall I intend on becoming more familiar with the tall one second from the left.


----------



## svk

Family photos continued. 

I'm told the little one is a "house axe" which is larger than a hatchet and smaller than a boys axe. It rides around in my suburban. 

The Hudson Bay pattern chops like a dream but the head likes to work its way off the handle, even when it's well wedged. Going to rework that a bit this fall.


----------



## svk

I think this is it. May have missed one or two somewhere. And I've sold and/or given away 8 or 9 in the past five years as well.

The Leveraxes do not belong to me, I'm just keeping an eye on them.


----------



## Mustang71

svk said:


> Found in a pawn shop. Assuming this guy was splitting on cement?
> 
> View attachment 595501



U found my axe. This is the first year I didn't split on cement. Built a block out of 2x4s and plywood. No more dents and no smashed axe heads. Now i need a new axe. Lol


----------



## svk

Oh and can't forget the battering ram.


----------



## dancan

I tried out my new to me maul in some spruce last weekend 







It worked well in the clearer stuff but 











And then 






So , to the hydro that stuff goes to , I'll wait for some maple or birch to use it again .


----------



## LondonNeil

Yep, I find similar with my big stihl. It's good, but it's not got magical powers.


----------



## Multifaceted

For me this Helko German Spaltaxt has been my go-to splitter since I bought it in early spring. Used to have an el-cheapo Truper in the same style hybrid design, but on a 36" curved polymer handle, and too much use killed my back, was out of commission Dec.-late Jan. from splitting... The first pics are of it when brand new, I've since put a leather collar on it to protect from over-striking, though the handle is pretty stout without it. It took a few hours to get used to the shorter handle (I'm a sort-of tall dude at 6'2"), but now I'm pretty comfortable with it and feel like I'm more precise with my blows. Aside from that, my Wetterlings Hudson Bay makes light work of smaller logs and kindling, but for the heavy gnarly rounds I either use a wedge and maul, or typically just slab with the Spaltaxt. Anything that is particularly troublesome I've simply noodled it with the saw, but that isn't much easier... and is a waste of fuel.


----------



## rarefish383

If someone hasn't already said it, welcome to the site. Nice pics, Joe.


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> If someone hasn't already said it, welcome to the site. Nice pics, Joe.


Thank you kindly, really like this place. Lurked for months, then decided to join because there's so much good info and content. Where in MD are you located? I'm about 1/2 mile from the Mason-Dixon.


----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> Thank you kindly, really like this place. Lurked for months, then decided to join because there's so much good info and content. Where in MD are you located? I'm about 1/2 mile from the Mason-Dixon.


I'm just outside Frederick. We just drove through Hampstead, Manchester, on the way to a friends hunting camp for a shooting weekend. Crossed the M/D on the way. Then I used to drag race at M/D dragway, outside of Hagerstown. So, I guess it's a long line. Doesn't sound like we are too far apart, Joe.


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> I'm just outside Frederick. We just drove through Hampstead, Manchester, on the way to a friends hunting camp for a shooting weekend. Crossed the M/D on the way. Then I used to drag race at M/D dragway, outside of Hagerstown. So, I guess it's a long line. Doesn't sound like we are too far apart, Joe.


Oh yeah, very familiar with those areas. I used to live in Baltimore, then moved to Westminster before I got married, then to Gettysburg and now we're about 15 miles south of Gettysburg, just due north of Emmittsburg. I actually work in Mt. Airy, my wife works for the Frederick City Police.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk


----------



## rarefish383

I've been in Mt Airy for 30 years now, lived in Middletown a couple years. Grew up in Montgomery County, my Dad's family settled in MC in 1721, old MD family, Joe.


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> I've been in Mt Airy for 30 years now, lived in Middletown a couple years. Grew up in Montgomery County, my Dad's family settled in MC in 1721, old MD family, Joe.


Very cool, perhaps we'll cross paths one day - cheers!

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----------



## Sandhill Crane

Stopped by the road where an old boy, well into his eighties, was splitting some nasty 12" oak rounds with a sledge and two steel wedges. I said it looked like he about had the sledge wore out. He smiled, and said he had another one. Early in the mornings they push a couple tables together at the local restaurant for the regulars. I've sat with him a number of times. His wife taught kindergarten when our kids were little. 

Anyway, he got a split started and buried the wedge in it. The second wedge he stuck a third of the way down the side and opened it up a little. Now here is something I've never seen or heard of. He pulled the wedge out of the top of the round, took a piece of 18" long 2" x 4", and drove it down the middle, popping the halves apart.


----------



## rarefish383

We used to cut a limb in a blunt "V" shape, maybe 18"-20" long to drive in a stubborn block, called it a "glut", Joe.


----------



## Ranchers-son

Just ordered isocore 4 lb hammer! Hope I like it as much in the shop as it's 8 lb cousin at the wood pile


----------



## svk

Haven't seen that one, let us know what you think!


----------



## Ranchers-son

It came up on amazon while I was looking for another 10 lb sledge I don't need


----------



## Ranchers-son

Initial impressions. I like it It is comfortable to swing and hits solid even when my swing wasn't 100% true. Would have preferred a larger diameter handle but still had a good grip


----------



## Philbert

Seen at that store where are "_you save BIG money_". No model number listed.




Philbert


----------



## Philbert

Philbert said:


> Seen at that store where are "_you save BIG money_". No model number listed.
> 
> View attachment 603518
> 
> 
> Philbert


On sale for $39.99 till 10/8

Philbert


----------



## Mustang71

That's a deal I thought i did good at 47 or whatever walamrt was.


----------



## svk

I'd never noticed the "6" on this axe until this afternoon. 

Does anyone chop with an axe this big or just split?


----------



## Ronaldo

That is a big rascal.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


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## Multifaceted

svk said:


> I'd never noticed the "6" on this axe until this afternoon.
> 
> Does anyone chop with an axe this big or just split?
> View attachment 605790



That is a biggun', looks like a Dayton pattern - definitely a solid piece!

I know I've posted this before, but this German Spaltaxt is just the bees knees. Was moving last season's wood to dry storage and decided to do some splitting. The handle is much shorter than what I've used before (28"), but I really like it and feels like my strikes are more precise and tactile.






Did roughly a face cord in a leisurely 2 hours while jamming out to some Bluegrass on the stereo. Only had to noodle one particularly gnarly round cut near a stump. Wood is a mix of Black Cherry, White Oak, White Ash, and Black Walnut. All of it was felled and sawn this year early srping and summer.


----------



## svk

Ordered a Fiskars X-25 last night. $44 bucks to my door. 

Tried to buy a Husky S2400 but everyone online wanted full price plus $14 shipping so that was getting pretty expensive. Maybe I'll pick one up when I get up to Spike60's shop next.


----------



## svk

Still anxiously awaiting the X-25 and the flagpole I ordered on Sunday. 

Good old Amazon has changed the rules on shipping. They still do 2 and 3 day shipping, however they do not guarantee how long it will take them to actually drop the items off at the shipping company. Sneaky Sneaky...


----------



## Trx250r180

svk said:


> Still anxiously awaiting the X-25 and the flagpole I ordered on Sunday.
> 
> Good old Amazon has changed the rules on shipping. They still do 2 and 3 day shipping, however they do not guarantee how long it will take them to actually drop the items off at the shipping company. Sneaky Sneaky...


I bought the x-25 before the x27 because it was biggest one they had at the time ,handle being shorter does not seem to pop the wood as easy for me ,the x-25 i have just sits now,maybe a shorter person it may work better ?
I do have a swedish 4 1/2 lb axe coming to try out ,could not find anyone in the states that had one so had to order from Canada .


----------



## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> That is a biggun', looks like a Dayton pattern - definitely a solid piece!
> 
> I know I've posted this before, but this German Spaltaxt is just the bees knees. Was moving last season's wood to dry storage and decided to do some splitting. The handle is much shorter than what I've used before (28"), but I really like it and feels like my strikes are more precise and tactile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did roughly a face cord in a leisurely 2 hours while jamming out to some Bluegrass on the stereo. Only had to noodle one particularly gnarly round cut near a stump. Wood is a mix of Black Cherry, White Oak, White Ash, and Black Walnut. All of it was felled and sawn this year early srping and summer.


That shape looks like will split real well without getting stuck .


----------



## svk

Trx250r180 said:


> I bought the x-25 before the x27 because it was biggest one they had at the time ,handle being shorter does not seem to pop the wood as easy for me ,the x-25 i have just sits now,maybe a shorter person it may work better ?
> I do have a swedish 4 1/2 lb axe coming to try out ,could not find anyone in the states that had one so had to order from Canada .


I'm thinking it will be nice for lighter splitting duties but we shall see. It's a cheap test anyhow.


----------



## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> That shape looks like will split real well without getting stuck .


Most of the time, yes, but on big rounds that have been sitting, or anything with a twisted grain or gnarly knots it'll still stick like anything else. Easy enough extract with the ol' palm push, but if the round or piece is light enough to lift overhead, I'll just invert it and slam the log into the bit by swinging the poll end onto the chopping block which usually takes care of un-sticking it and and splitting the piece.

I had a similar design by Truper that was drop forged in Mexico from inferior steel but was on a 36" poly haft. This one is by Helko, is better steel that holds and edge better and _appears _to be hammer forged; however, it has only a 28" haft and the head is a few ounces heavier to boot. I'm 6'1", so the shorter handle took a little getting used to, but now I really like it and shorter hafts all together. All of that being said, my favorite way to split is when the wood is frozen, ha ha


----------



## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> Most of the time, yes, but on big rounds that have been sitting, or anything with a twisted grain or gnarly knots it'll still stick like anything else. Easy enough extract with the ol' palm push, but if the round or piece is light enough to lift overhead, I'll just invert it and slam the log into the bit by swinging the poll end onto the chopping block which usually takes care of un-sticking it and and splitting the piece.
> 
> I had a similar design by Truper that was drop forged in Mexico from inferior steel but was on a 36" poly haft. This one is by Helko, is better steel that holds and edge better and _appears _to be hammer forged; however, it has only a 28" haft and the head is a few ounces heavier to boot. I'm 6'1", so the shorter handle took a little getting used to, but now I really like it and shorter hafts all together. All of that being said, my favorite way to split is when the wood is frozen, ha ha


I like a longer handle also, like a 36 ,i have a hb arvika coming it has a 32 , hope its long enough for the 4.5 lb head


----------



## LondonNeil

svk said:


> I'm thinking it will be nice for lighter splitting duties but we shall see. It's a cheap test anyhow.



That's exactly why I bought the x17 and I have been stunned at its effectiveness. It is very capable, feels much much lighter and less tiring to swing and although it doesn't have the oomph for twisted grain stuff it breezes through straighter stuff virtually regardless of size. To me the shorter handle feels stiffer, if I overstrike I really feel it, but the stiff handle feels like it's transferring the energy very 'directly' and it pops the wood apart. After my shin incident I've been using our crouched, so any deflections and it hits dirt. If I had the confidence/accuracy with it to use a tall block, and swing as hard as I liked, it would be doing a remarkable percentage of my splitting.


----------



## svk

Received the X-25 today. 

I was surprised to see that it has the same exact head as the X-27. For some reason I thought the X-25 head was similar but smaller and lighter, but was wrong in that assumption. 

As you can see, my X-27 has seen some use and abuse over the past 4 years. It was my go-to splitting tool until I purchased a Husky S2800 which frankly works better although takes a little more attention due to the short handle. 







A big birch on my driveway recently lost half of it's crown in a wind storm. I'll dump that in the next few days and run these head to head.


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> Received the X-25 today.
> 
> I was surprised to see that it has the same exact head as the X-27. For some reason I thought the X-25 head was similar but smaller and lighter, but was wrong in that assumption.


That has changed through the years - see my photos in this thread from 6 years ago:

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars-28-and-36-side-by-side-comparison.170817/
It appears to be an on-going evolution.

Philbert

(P.S. - yours are also missing the wood veneer on the handle!)


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> That has changed through the years - see my photos in this thread from 6 years ago:
> 
> https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars-28-and-36-side-by-side-comparison.170817/
> It appears to be an on-going evolution.
> 
> Philbert
> 
> (P.S. - yours are also missing the wood veneer on the handle!)


I still have the envelope with the veneer, I'll get it on there at some point, I promise!


----------



## svk

I suppose production costs decrease significantly if they use the same head. 

I'm curious how many folks are still using the original "super splitter", not to be confused with the all black X-27 clone "super splitting axe"? I know zogger really liked his.


----------



## CR888

Its funny, I thought the Fiskars limited edition axe I bought was basically an X25 in different dress. But its obviously not as it has a smaller size bit.
The 365 year anniverary axe is not the best as a splitter but I got it for my girl to use...even though she dont really use it. But its good for large kindling. The S2800 with the same length handle as the X27 would be a pretty good composite splitting axe. I think that red axe of SVK's would be good with its long handle, I bet it works well.


----------



## Streblerm

svk said:


> I suppose production costs decrease significantly if they use the same head.
> 
> I'm curious how many folks are still using the original "super splitter", not to be confused with the all black X-27 clone "super splitting axe"? I know zogger really liked his.



Still using my original Fiskars Super Split. I think the head design is superior to the newer X series. It is my go to splitting axe, short handle and all. I still prefer it to the X27.


----------



## Mustang71

I like my x27 I have not split a ton with it but in the right wood it's awesome. I like the long handle, I'm not a tall guy but I like to keep that head away from my toes. Plus my maul and sledge are a 32 inch handle so longer is more familiar.


----------



## LondonNeil

Long handle definitely safer.


----------



## svk

CR888 said:


> Its funny, I thought the Fiskars limited edition axe I bought was basically an X25 in different dress. But its obviously not as it has a smaller size bit.View attachment 608617
> The 365 year anniverary axe is not the best as a splitter but I got it for my girl to use...even though she dont really use it. But its good for large kindling. The S2800 with the same length handle as the X27 would be a pretty good composite splitting axe. I think that red axe of SVK's would be good with its long handle, I bet it works well.


Can you get a shot of the top of the heads of those? I'm interested to see as it seems to have less taper.


----------



## watchamakalit

svk said:


> Can you get a shot of the top of the heads of those? I'm interested to see as it seems to have less taper.


No need the newer ones with longer handles have a much narrower head than the original super split. Probably an inch overall width difference and I think it makes a noticeable difference. 

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

Edit: I forgot the obligatory axe ****. So I'll double down.


----------



## svk

watchamakalit said:


> No need the newer ones with longer handles have a much narrower head than the original super split. Probably an inch overall width difference and I think it makes a noticeable difference.


That's why I'm asking to see a pic so we can have a reference


----------



## Mustang71

I will say that the x27 has a soft blade on it. I have some dings in it from wood and tonight I split my round and missed the end of my splitting block once through the round, I did a good amount of swearing because when I hit the concrete it did a number on the edge. 

Very sharp but soft. I'm assuming that being that sharp it's pretty thin and therefore dings easily. Still works like a champ though. I'll sharpen it this winter.


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## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> I like a longer handle also, like a 36 ,i have a hb arvika coming it has a 32 , hope its long enough for the 4.5 lb head



I'm actually quite the opposite for upright splitting implements, a shorter handle seems to be my preference lately, at least ever since I got the Helko Spaltaxt (28" haft, 4 lb head) - while a little unfamiliar at first, I've really grown on it. I think you'll love that Arvika, a very nice piece. Had one in my hands a few weeks back but couldn't walk out with it when my wife was there with me, ha ha ha


----------



## Philbert

Multifaceted said:


> I'm actually quite the opposite for upright splitting implements, a shorter handle seems to be my preference lately, . . .


Split decision?

Longer handles - taller people, or wood on the ground. 

Shorter handles - shorter people, and wood up on a block. 

Philbert


----------



## Big_Eddy

IMO - Splitting wood up on a block adds an unnecessary amount of risk to the whole operation. Much safer to split blocks on the ground, with a safety log in front of the blocks. No risk of damaged shins that way. I have the long handled Super Splitting axe and a number of 4-8lb mauls. All my axes and splitters have long handles and I'm not that tall. 

I must admit that the Super Splitting axe is well suited to "golf splitting" halved rounds into quarters. The light head and long handle make for a fast head speed that easily passes through half split rounds that tipped over and are lying down. Not a recommended technique - but I find myself using it regularly with the SS. Can't get the same head speed with a maul.


----------



## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> I'm actually quite the opposite for upright splitting implements, a shorter handle seems to be my preference lately, at least ever since I got the Helko Spaltaxt (28" haft, 4 lb head) - while a little unfamiliar at first, I've really grown on it. I think you'll love that Arvika, a very nice piece. Had one in my hands a few weeks back but couldn't walk out with it when my wife was there with me, ha ha ha


I googled the Helko axes ,looks very well made ,the wedge built in looks like will pop the wood apart very nice .I like the looks of the expedition model 4.5 lb .
You had an Arvika in your hands ? So i am guessing they are showing up in the states now ?


----------



## dancan

I can buy the Arvika direct from the Canadian distributor , but , I really don't need another axe ,,,, Seriously , I don't ,,, And I meen it ,,, This time for sure ,,, YesSiree Bob , no more axes ,,,, Time to cull the heard ,,, Yup , gonna start being a minimalist ,,, Real soon ....


----------



## LondonNeil

Lol!


----------



## Trx250r180

dancan said:


> I can buy the Arvika direct from the Canadian distributor , but , I really don't need another axe ,,,, Seriously , I don't ,,, And I meen it ,,, This time for sure ,,, YesSiree Bob , no more axes ,,,, Time to cull the heard ,,, Yup , gonna start being a minimalist ,,, Real soon ....


How do you like the new axe ?


----------



## dancan

I might let you know this weekend , depends if my local Makita depot has a 3601 lol


----------



## Philbert

Big_Eddy said:


> IMO - Splitting wood up on a block adds an unnecessary amount of risk to the whole operation. Much safer to split blocks on the ground, with a safety log in front of the blocks. No risk of damaged shins that way.


It's a better height for me. more power in that part of the swing, IMO, and less bending over.

If I miss, axe / maul hits the splitting block, instead of the dirt. A tire also helps to hold things together. Hitting the shins would require quite a miss.

Only disadvantage is the need to lift each round up to the block.

Philbert


----------



## Multifaceted

Philbert said:


> Split decision?
> 
> Longer handles - taller people, or wood on the ground.
> 
> Shorter handles - shorter people, and wood up on a block.
> 
> Philbert



I'm 6',2" so I guess you could consider me tall. I think handle length is more subjective than anything, what works good for one person may not for another regardless of physique, height, or strength.



Big_Eddy said:


> IMO - Splitting wood up on a block adds an unnecessary amount of risk to the whole operation. Much safer to split blocks on the ground, with a safety log in front of the blocks. No risk of damaged shins that way. I have the long handled Super Splitting axe and a number of 4-8lb mauls. All my axes and splitters have long handles and I'm not that tall.
> 
> I must admit that the Super Splitting axe is well suited to "golf splitting" halved rounds into quarters. The light head and long handle make for a fast head speed that easily passes through half split rounds that tipped over and are lying down. Not a recommended technique - but I find myself using it regularly with the SS. Can't get the same head speed with a maul.



Meh, it can be a risk if one is not careful. Splitting upright on the ground is going to put my splitting axe in the dirt, which is no bueno. Splitting up on a block ensures that my bit with plant into the wood. Again, this is me talking and my current preferences, not making a general statement. Also, keeping the axe very sharp lessens the likelihood of glancing blows, which will damage your shins regardless of how sharp it is or isn't. That being said, I am also a fan of the golf swing splitting method on the ground, I like to use a heavy felling axe for that. The thing is, doing that for an extended period of time wears out my lower back. Not so much the swinging as it is angling my body and stepping over logs and what not... When I split on a block I like to use a chain and bungee, and keep a pickaroon at arms reach for the smaller stuff.



Trx250r180 said:


> I googled the Helko axes ,looks very well made ,the wedge built in looks like will pop the wood apart very nice .I like the looks of the expedition model 4.5 lb .
> You had an Arvika in your hands ? So i am guessing they are showing up in the states now ?



Some of their axes are nice, others not so much... like the Vario 2000 -- what the hell is that? I liked the Splataxt because of the design, which I was already familiar with using, but I wanted better quality properly hardened steel and a wood handle. I do not like plastic handles. Nothing wrong with them, I just don't like 'em.

Yes, I found a dealer in Frederick, MD that sells Hults and Gransförs Bruk. I could have swore I was an Arvika, but maybe it was the American Felling Axe.... pretty sure that's what it was labeled as, and it was ground to a clean steel finish, no forging marks.


----------



## LondonNeil

Philbert, when I shinned myself with my x17 I didn't miss, I hit the target but slightly off to the side. It took the corner of and deflected the axe enough to then miss the 20-22" wide block beneath. Thankfully most of the energy was absorbed...I needed 3 stitches.

I'm back to using low blocks.


----------



## Mustang71

I've had the axe deflect like that. You chip the corner off and the axe spins in ur hand and the head is no longer face down. I'm 5'6 and split on a slab of wood on the ground. Long handle seems safer to me since the axe is longer than my arms and legs.


----------



## svk

Got out this morning after the rain moved on.

First here is my review of the X-25: This tool worked much better than I anticipated. For the wood I was splitting, this was the peer of the X-27. Granted I'm already used to using a shorter handled tool but I think you can get a faster swing with less effort because you need to wind up to get that long handled X-27 going. When I get into larger wood in the future where a "kowabunga" swing is needed, this opinion may change but time will tell. 

Secondly the X-25 is very similar in length to the Husky S2800 but it feels much better balanced. On a tangent, I noticed the same thing on the GB splitting axe I tried this spring as well; it just felt better in your hands than the S2800. With that being said the S2800 did outmuscle both X series tools in the larger rounds. So you need to decide if feel or productivity is more important to you. I know I can put more splits in the pile faster with the Husky than I can the X-27 but that's a different discussion. 

On another tangent, I wonder if 32" is the optimum handle length? Seems that for me (being 5' 11"), 36" is a bit long and 27/28" is a bit short. Maybe another reason I liked that GB.

I pulled out dad's True Temper tools as well. The big axe really swings nice and was splitting right alongside the modern tools. The maul, which I don't care for as much due to its overstrike damage prone "sledge eye" handle, split wood fine but wasn't nearly as natural to swing despite having the same head weight as the big axe. Mauls don't really have much of a place in my splitting arsenal unless I'm out east where you need their mass and ability to be pounded through with a sledge when dealing with the tougher species. 




Tried to show the results of a single swing in equal wood. 



The oldies but goodies.



Some real pretty wood here.



So in review, if you like the X-27 but it feels a bit long for you, then you will love the X-25. I'm happy with the purchase.


----------



## Trx250r180

I like that true temper axe ,handle has a nice curve ,is that a 32 or 36 ? 4 lb head ? The husky head looks a little heavier than the fiskars also ,maybe the weight is why it gets the production ?


----------



## Big_Eddy

I stand 5'8, swing a 36" handle, and split blocks that are typically 16" high. Standard trigonometry (52" shoulder height, 24" arm length, 36" handle, 16" block) puts the top of the block 48" out from my shins and 3' below my shoulder height. (standard 3,4,5 triangle - neat how that works out). For illustration purposes - assume I'm standing straight up without bending at the knees or waist.
Using the same dimensions and axe, if I miss the log and overswing, the tip of the ax is going to strike the ground / safety log 30" ahead of my shins. Lots of room there to spare.

Take the same me, with a 24" axe handle and the block on the ground. I now need to bend my knees or waist to be able to hit the log comfortably. Assuming a 4" knee bend, the distance from shins to block is reduced to 36". Not bad. But with the short axe, if I miss the log and overswing, the axe tip hits the ground right in front of my toes. Yowzer!!

With the same 24" handled axe, if I lift the block up onto a 12" splitting block, then the increased height makes it unnecessary to bend the knees, and it increases the distance between my knees and the block top to a more comfortable 42", but without a knee bend, a missed swing rotates all the way through and embeds itself into my shins about 4" off the ground. Not good at all.

I like to place a small (6"-8" dia) log on the ground and place my blocks behind it. That way my axe doesn't pass all the way through the block and into the ground. It passes through the block until it strikes the safety log, preventing damage to the edge. Plus it gives the blocks something to lean against so they don't fall over.

Everyone has their own methods. I like my 36" handled axe. It works for me. Either way - be safe out there!!


----------



## svk

Trx250r180 said:


> I like that true temper axe ,handle has a nice curve ,is that a 32 or 36 ? 4 lb head ? The husky head looks a little heavier than the fiskars also ,maybe the weight is why it gets the production ?


Brian that big axe is a 6# with a handle that's a bit over 36". 

The Husky axe head is quite a lot beefier but with similar design (i.e. copied) to Fiskars.


----------



## svk

Speaking of overstrikes, I had a chunk of maple that opened up on the far side but hinged on the close side and did this to the big axe. Will sand and dab a bit of BLO on there later.


----------



## Trx250r180

svk said:


> Speaking of overstrikes, I had a chunk of maple open up on the far side but hinge on the close side and did this to the big axe. Will sand and dab a bit of BLO on there later.
> 
> View attachment 609027


I am trying to come up with some kind of cover for that area to avoid this from happening .


----------



## svk

Rope or a piece of shaped metal?


----------



## Trx250r180

svk said:


> Rope or a piece of shaped metal?


Yes ,i was thinking same thing ,plastic even ,chunk of leather may work also


----------



## dancan

I think the Stihl (not sure who makes it) might be the better of the three but the X25 ain't no slouch , the GB is the nicest for feel but the other two will make easier work of the tougher wood .






This Ochsenkopf , about the same length as the other three seams to be the best of the bunch but it might be a little heavier , I'll have to dig them all out some day and weigh them .
The GB has a built in tin protector , it works beautifully so I made one for the Ox , I formed a heavy gauge piece of sheet metal around it the welded and pinned it , works like it should .
I'm 5'8" , I prefer to split on the ground in a tire or a piece of 2x12 , I prefer the shorties for aim and speed but I also like my Isocore lol


----------



## svk

Cool Dan. I have yet to see the Stihl axe in person. I'd love to try one.


----------



## LondonNeil

They look cool too


----------



## svk

Since it was drizzling yesterday I sprayed the heads of all of the axes I used with WD-40 and tucked them under the overhang on the cabin. Well we got 3" of snow with 30 mph winds so they were all covered this morning so I'll dry them out and hit them again.


----------



## svk

Trx250r180 said:


> Yes ,i was thinking same thing ,plastic even ,chunk of leather may work also


I've seen some real nice leather ones somewhere but cannot remember where. I have some tanned caribou hide scraps leftover from a vest I had made. May need to look into this more.


----------



## svk

dancan said:


> I think the Stihl (not sure who makes it) might be the better of the three but the X25 ain't no slouch , the GB is the nicest for feel but the other two will make easier work of the tougher wood .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Ochsenkopf , about the same length as the other three seams to be the best of the bunch but it might be a little heavier , I'll have to dig them all out some day and weigh them .
> The GB has a built in tin protector , it works beautifully so I made one for the Ox , I formed a heavy gauge piece of sheet metal around it the welded and pinned it , works like it should .
> I'm 5'8" , I prefer to split on the ground in a tire or a piece of 2x12 , I prefer the shorties for aim and speed but I also like my Isocore lol


Dan, do you think that GB could use a longer handle? That one is pretty short. The one I used had a 32" and felt about perfect.


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> Rope or a piece of shaped metal?


Strip of inner tube or piece of bicycle tire? (Won't look as classy as caribou hide). 

Philbert


----------



## dancan

svk said:


> Dan, do you think that GB could use a longer handle? That one is pretty short. The one I used had a 32" and felt about perfect.



As far as I know they call the 32" a maul and I believe the head is different , I've not scored the maul yet and I'd have to start a "GoFundMe" thinggy to at the 200 Cnd Kopecs it would cost me to find out .
My local LeeValley store has one in stock if anyone wanted me to do a head to head comparison ...


----------



## benp

svk said:


> Speaking of overstrikes, I had a chunk of maple that opened up on the far side but hinged on the close side and did this to the big axe. Will sand and dab a bit of BLO on there later.
> 
> View attachment 609027



And this is why Ben doesn't and can't have nice stuff. 

And still no S3600 from Husky. Sheesh.


----------



## svk

dancan said:


> As far as I know they call the 32" a maul and I believe the head is different , I've not scored the maul yet and I'd have to start a "GoFundMe" thinggy to at the 200 Cnd Kopecs it would cost me to find out .
> My local LeeValley store has one in stock if anyone wanted me to do a head to head comparison ...


I believe they offer the actual splitting axe in 3 lengths with the longest being 32". I'll check in a bit.


----------



## Trx250r180

The arvika showed up ,i burned the handle buckin style and put boiled linseed on it ,was too light still at that point so wiped some stain on it ,color is called provential


----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> Most of the time, yes, but on big rounds that have been sitting, or anything with a twisted grain or gnarly knots it'll still stick like anything else. Easy enough extract with the ol' palm push, but if the round or piece is light enough to lift overhead, I'll just invert it and slam the log into the bit by swinging the poll end onto the chopping block which usually takes care of un-sticking it and and splitting the piece.
> 
> I kind of quit following this thread when the ax restoration thread got going, so this reply is a bit old. I always liked splitting nice straight grained Oak in front of people that have never split wood. Just to show off. Bring the ax in at a little angle and throw the pieces into a pile. Then come to a knot, they would look at you like, "how ya gonna split that knot wise guy"? I'd stick the ax into the knot, swing the whole thing up in the air, rotate it in one smooth motion, and bring it down on the poll. The knot would explode in two pieces, their eyes would bug out, that's how you split a knot with an ax. Glad to see some one else does the same thing. Just look at the physics in it. If you get 30-40 pounds accelerating from 7-8 feet in the air, coming to an instant stop! That's a lot of force, Joe.


----------



## CR888

A simple strike protection you can make at home is with leather. Put holes along two sides, wrap it aroung wood & tie together with a leather lace...think doing up your shoes. Have the holes and lace at the top. That works well & looks crafty. Another is just paracord or starter rope. When you change a pull start rope that's worn, recycle it by wrapping or splicing around handle. Last one for the homemade is just sheet metal cut, wrapped & secured with pins.


----------



## svk

Trx250r180 said:


> The arvika showed up ,i burned the handle buckin style and put boiled linseed on it ,was too light still at that point so wiped some stain on it ,color is called proventialView attachment 609662


Real nice. You are planning on splitting or chopping with this?


----------



## Trx250r180

svk said:


> Real nice. You are planning on splitting or chopping with this?


Splitting,and maybe pounding wedges ,it feels pretty balanced with the 32 inch handle .here are some shots out of the box


----------



## svk

Cool. I like your custom handle much better.


----------



## Therival

Picked up this monster today for $325. Guy bought it while in Maine a few years ago and couldn’t get it running. In his defense, he said he isn’t a mechanical guy and the motor stalled and wouldn’t fire back up. Betting the carb is gunked up. 

This thing is a monster! 13’ long. 40” ram. Hydraulic height adjustment on the wedge. The table is made out of 1/8” steel. And it has a 10 hp techumsa motor hooked direct drive to the pump. 

Looks like some local guy in Maine was producing these. Has A bead welded to the pusher that says S/M and the wedge has a serial number punched into the top.

I can’t wait to get this thing running!


----------



## Ronaldo

What a beast, that oughta get it done.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


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## rarefish383

It is a monster, looks like it will be well suited for two man operation. I've gotten to the point that I'd just throw a new Predator engine on it and not even fool with the old one, Joe.


----------



## Philbert

Looks like an aircraft carrier! Sure that is not a catapult?

Philbert


----------



## Therival

Philbert said:


> Looks like an aircraft carrier! Sure that is not a catapult?
> 
> Philbert



I will confirm once I get the motor running! Haha


----------



## CR888

That HB arvika looks beaut! The bit dimensions are full of Hults Bruk DNA from many years past. I think Hickory is used on their handles which on my HB is very soft so some protection is probably a good idea.


----------



## abbott295

"designed for use on Australian hardwoods and" and what?


----------



## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> The arvika showed up ,i burned the handle buckin style and put boiled linseed on it ,was too light still at that point so wiped some stain on it ,color is called proventialView attachment 609662



Nice touch, I burned the handle to raise the grain and oiled on my Helko Splataxt for better purchase, also looks cool to boot! Did you sharpen it yet?



rarefish383 said:


> I kind of quit following this thread when the ax restoration thread got going, so this reply is a bit old. I always liked splitting nice straight grained Oak in front of people that have never split wood. Just to show off. Bring the ax in at a little angle and throw the pieces into a pile. Then come to a knot, they would look at you like, "how ya gonna split that knot wise guy"? I'd stick the ax into the knot, swing the whole thing up in the air, rotate it in one smooth motion, and bring it down on the poll. The knot would explode in two pieces, their eyes would bug out, that's how you split a knot with an ax. Glad to see some one else does the same thing. Just look at the physics in it. If you get 30-40 pounds accelerating from 7-8 feet in the air, coming to an instant stop! That's a lot of force, Joe.



Heck yeah, though for me it doesn't always work. Even if the inverted poll swing it doesn't split, I'll lay the log/round on its side on the block, then swing into and along grain near the top with an overhead arc and 'whip' of the wrist. That 'whip' with the wrist seems to make the difference in power delivery. Kind of like swinging a gold club, it's all about the geometry of the swing and the arc up to the point of impact.



abbott295 said:


> "designed for use on Australian hardwoods and" and what?



It's worse than that, it actually reads "Austr*alien*"... Hults Bruk needs a better translator, ha ha


----------



## rarefish383

That's what I've always said about splitting wood, it's like swinging a baseball bat, all in the wrist. I've seen guys on youtube spread their legs and lift the ax or maul dead center on their body, over their head. You can't get any snap or wrist action like that.


----------



## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> Nice touch, I burned the handle to raise the grain and oiled on my Helko Splataxt for better purchase, also looks cool to boot! Did you sharpen it yet?
> 
> 
> 
> Heck yeah, though for me it doesn't always work. Even if the inverted poll swing it doesn't split, I'll lay the log/round on its side on the block, then swing into and along grain near the top with an overhead arc and 'whip' of the wrist. That 'whip' with the wrist seems to make the difference in power delivery. Kind of like swinging a gold club, it's all about the geometry of the swing and the arc up to the point of impact.
> 
> 
> 
> It's worse than that, it actually reads "Austr*alien*"... Hults Bruk needs a better translator, ha ha


No on the sharpen ,it feels good for splitting out of the box,maybe if was cutting a tree down it could use a better edge , i need to get one of the sharpen stones still.


----------



## svk

Trx250r180 said:


> No on the sharpen ,it feels good for splitting out of the box,maybe if was cutting a tree down it could use a better edge , i need to get one of the sharpen stones still.


FWIW the Dollar Tree store near my cabin sells a 2"x6" sharpening stone for a buck. Not sure about the quality but would be worth a try maybe.


----------



## Philbert

Multifaceted said:


> It's worse than that, it actually reads "Austr*alien*"... Hults Bruk needs a better translator, ha ha


I think that we may have a few of those here on this site . . .

Philbert


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> That's what I've always said about splitting wood, it's like swinging a baseball bat, all in the wrist. I've seen guys on youtube spread their legs and lift the ax or maul dead center on their body, over their head. You can't get any snap or wrist action like that.



Agreed, same with chopping or felling/notching. Over-exerting or trying to force the blow is good way to wear out your elbows or mess up your back for a few weeks or months.



Trx250r180 said:


> No on the sharpen ,it feels good for splitting out of the box,maybe if was cutting a tree down it could use a better edge , i need to get one of the sharpen stones still.



I got you. Maybe it's just me, but I still like a nice sharp edge on my splitting axes, I'll just file it to a wider grind, like 35° then hone it to a fine edge. A wide grind and good steel will hold an edge well. My sharpening kit consists of a bastard mill file, Lanskey puck (120/280 grits), and a Whetstone (400/1000 grits). When done I'll strop it on a cloth polishing wheel using my bench grinder. Once the grind is set, the honing with the stones only takes about 5-10 minutes. Maybe 15 minutes tops for a brand new axe, a bit longer for an older one or if the grind is Bubba'd pretty bad.


----------



## dancan




----------



## LondonNeil

I've not used it on my axes but I find a diamond grit stone much better than a whet stone on my kitchen knives. Although tbh i've only recently bought it so only done each knife once so far.


----------



## Multifaceted

dancan said:


>




+1 for SkillCult. He needs to refine the art of making a video and not talk as much, but all in all he provides really good info - especially on axemanship. I like his cordwood challenge idea.



LondonNeil said:


> I've not used it on my axes but I find a diamond grit stone much better than a whet stone on my kitchen knives. Although tbh i've only recently bought it so only done each knife once so far.



'Better' is such a subjective term. Diamond definitely cut faster and with less effort; however, diamond stones are expensive. I have a dual diamond stone in 1500/2000 grit for fine honing knives and it's excellent. Eventually I'll use all diamond stones, but for now the inexpensive whetstones work pretty darn good. For axes, up to 1000 grit and stropping gets them shaving sharp with ease.


----------



## LondonNeil

This wasn't much, just like the whet stone I have it was just a few pounds. eBay, all the way from China.


----------



## Philbert

_More of a smashing tool . . ._ 












Philbert


----------



## svk

Looks like an isocore maul with the point cut off.


----------



## Trx250r180

Tried out the arvika ,it splits nice ,but the short 32 inch handle makes me bend over a bit with my golf swing when the rounds are sideways on the ground ,i am going to cut it off and put a 36 on the head ,for tree cutting and wedge pounding the 32 would be fine though ,or if i took the time to lift the rounds up onto a block ,It does stick in wet rounds more than the x27 fiskars ,but that is expected with the thinner profile ,most of the strait grained alder hardwood that has been down since last summer was popping first swing .


----------



## MechanicMatt

Did your flip trick today. The litle fiskars was stuck in a piece so i lifter them up and twisted it 180* and let it drop on the chopping block. Worked like a charm!


----------



## motolife313

Here's my spliter all hand made. I'm pretty happy with it. 3" diameter screw. I did all the machine work besides I had to pay a guy to reverse thread the 7/8 tip and he threaded it for me. Splits some wood at idle. I had a HF motor in it the pumped it up but it quite running for some reason not sure so I got a 11 hp Honda engine geared about 10-1 spins 380 rpm or so.


----------



## motolife313

I think I loaded to many pics. It's going retarded lol


----------



## motolife313

I'll keep it to 3/4 pics. The aluminum handles slid right out.


----------



## Therival

Looks great man but build yourself some chain covers or guards! that is an accident waiting to happen!


----------



## motolife313

Ya that would make it safer. Thanks for the compliment


----------



## svk

Anyone find any Black Friday deals on axes?

I found a "refurbished" jersey pattern at an antique shop but they repainted it with a decent amount of mushroom left on the poll and they wanted $30. They also had a smaller axe head for 8 bucks but someone had welded a steel pipe on it as a handle. 

Went grocery shopping at Walmart and as I was picking up charcoal in the garden section I noticed the Fiskars products were NOT marked down.


----------



## Mustang71

I was looking for a deal on an estwing hatchet but no such luck.


----------



## Lowhog

A


svk said:


> I've seen some real nice leather ones somewhere but cannot remember where. Amazon or Ebay. Axe handle collars.


----------



## Lowhog

svk said:


> I'd never noticed the "6" on this axe until this afternoon.
> 
> Does anyone chop with an axe this big or just split?
> 
> View attachment 605790


That is a felling axe.


----------



## Lowhog

Nowadays at age 63 I pretty much run a power splitter. In the past the best maul I ever used on hardwood was the 11.4 pounder my Son made me in High 24 years ago. By far it out splits any hardware store maul I purchased, and it always kept a sharp edge. That's my maul review wrapped up in a nutshell.


----------



## Philbert

I had a commercially made, triangular head splitting maul, that someone gave me when they moved. I think that it was a 'Monster Maul' brand, but I see lots of versions sold under lots of names. It went on CraigsList as soon as I compared it to my Fiskars.

Lots of ways to split. Everybody has to find what works for them, and the type(s) of wood that they are splitting.

I can't justify a powered splitter for the little that I do at home, or the space that it would take. But I really liked the 2-way splitter I tried, and it would be a good choice for the smaller size of wood that I use in my fireplace insert.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/ran-a-2-way-splitter-sunday.190097/

Philbert


----------



## woodsrider

I have two or three Stihl mauls and splitting axes, but I like to use my Sotz Monster Maul that I bought back in the mid to late 1980s. This thing is a beast....


----------



## Lowhog

woodsrider said:


> I have two or three Stihl mauls and splitting axes, but I like to use my Sotz Monster Maul that I bought back in the mid to late 1980s. This thing is a beast....
> 
> View attachment 615496


I need a handle like that for mine.


----------



## Philbert

Not a splitting tool, but first time I saw one of these. 




Philbert


----------



## Trx250r180

Philbert said:


> Not a splitting tool, but first time I saw one of these.
> 
> View attachment 616370
> 
> 
> Philbert


A fiskaroon


----------



## crowbuster

Philbert said:


> Not a splitting tool, but first time I saw one of these.
> 
> View attachment 616370
> 
> 
> Philbert



Had mine about a year. Never be without it again. Pull logs, move rounds, pulls rounds to the splitter. And best of all, if my buddy schlep rock breaks it, lifetime replacement. Yes, he's the guy you have heard could break an anvil with a feather.


----------



## Multifaceted

Philbert said:


> Not a splitting tool, but first time I saw one of these.
> 
> View attachment 616370
> 
> 
> Philbert



It certainly is a splitting tool! I use mine all of the time for splitting and stacking. They're a back-saver, a pickaroon and log tongs are my savior when it comes to moving and stacking piles of split wood. I don't have a Fiskars, but I did make one myself from a Hickory maul handle and a carriage bolt:


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## Mustang71

My previous axe to the fiskars has the bottom of the head curved down like a hook. Id hit it into a log to carry it to the splitting pad. 

That thing is interesting but Idk what I'd use it for it looks a bit thin.


----------



## Multifaceted

Mustang71 said:


> My previous axe to the fiskars has the bottom of the head curved down like a hook. Id hit it into a log to carry it to the splitting pad.
> 
> That thing is interesting but Idk what I'd use it for it looks a bit thin.



I don't use it to drag logs, that's what my peavy and log hooks are for 

For this I primarily use it for grabbing split pieces without bending over. I simply swing it into the end grain, pick it up, then chuck into the next pile. Often when I'm moving split pieces into place or to another pile, I'll have the pickaroon in one hand, and my long log tongs in the other. I use the tongs for heavy pieces and the pickaroon for whatever I can jab in the same motion.


----------



## LondonNeil

I'd eyed the fiskars 'roon for a good while before I had one, but it seemed a bit much for a tool I wasn't sure I would use ( about £40, nearly as much as the x27 iirc) then I found a cheaper pickaroon by Bison at £25 and got that, and instantly loved it. It had a poor handle which broke before long so I got a new hickory handle. That made the Bison pick better balanced and lovely but I had spent nearly what a fiskars would have cost and wondered if I would have liked that better. Well recently I found some comments in a thread on arbtalk (a very dull UK version of AS), seems the fiskars wasn't so highly thought of and the go to tool is the Bison! I looked for the Bison again recently and it's near the price of the fiskars now, would be more once rehandled. Seems I got lucky.

Anyway, that was only based on 2 or 3 fiskars users so in reality I'm interested to hear how you get on..... Just don't like it too much please.


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> I'd eyed the fiskars 'roon for a good while before I had one, but it seemed a bit much for a tool I wasn't sure I would use ( about £40, nearly as much as the x27 iirc) then I found a cheaper pickaroon by Bison at £25 and got that, and instantly loved it. It had a poor handle which broke before long so I got a new hickory handle. That made the Bison pick better balanced and lovely but I had spent nearly what a fiskars would have cost and wondered if I would have liked that better. Well recently I found some comments in a thread on arbtalk (a very dull UK version of AS), seems the fiskars wasn't so highly thought of and the go to tool is the Bison! I looked for the Bison again recently and it's near the price of the fiskars now, would be more once rehandled. Seems I got lucky.
> 
> Anyway, that was only based on 2 or 3 fiskars users so in reality I'm interested to hear how you get on..... Just don't like it too much please.


It's always interesting to hear different reviews. As we know, Fiskars often get a bad rap from folks who are scared by that plastic handle


----------



## Mustang71

svk said:


> It's always interesting to hear different reviews. As we know, Fiskars often get a bad rap from folks who are scared by that plastic handle



I was worried about the plastic handle but with a warranty where they hand u a new one if u break it then it can't be to bad.


----------



## svk

Mustang71 said:


> I was worried about the plastic handle but with a warranty where they hand u a new one if u break it then it can't be to bad.


Someone said they had a defective batch of hatchets. But I have severely overstruck on the X-27 several times and never an issue. I know in 40 some cords through it I would have replaced my maul handle a couple of times.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> It's always interesting to hear different reviews. As we know, Fiskars often get a bad rap from folks who are scared by that plastic handle



I dislike plastic handles partly for being a contrarian, traditionalist, and well, wood handles are just cool!

That being said, Fiskars axes get nothing but praise from anyone I know who owns one or several, and being as widely popular as they are, one can't really argue with their success.


----------



## Trx250r180

I have some fiskars x-27 ,x-25 and an x-7 ,but they do not have the cool factor or feel of a hand forged head on a hickory handle .


----------



## Mustang71

I switched from wood this year to either fiber glass or fiskars. When I broke the less than a year old wood sledge handle i decided to try fiberglass. The over strike was an accidental bounce and then snap. Possibly it was a poorly made hickory handle Idk.


----------



## Homelitexl903

I already did a review on the ozark trail hatchet for its intended purposes. I'm not doing a second review on it, just sharing that it comes in handy as a "kitchen utensil". I was given some free jumbo hard shell lobsters from work and couldn't break open the claws with what I had available in my kitchen. I thought about what to do for a minute and well...I will let the pictures tell the rest of the story.


----------



## svk

Homelitexl903 said:


> I already did a review on the ozark trail hatchet for its intended purposes. I'm not doing a second review on it, just sharing that it comes in handy as a "kitchen utensil". I was given some free jumbo hard shell lobsters from work and couldn't break open the claws with what I had available in my kitchen. I thought about what to do for a minute and well...I will let the pictures tell the rest of the story.


Let me know if you have this problem again and I will come over to help. Bet that was a delicious meal.


----------



## svk

Trx250r180 said:


> they do not have the cool factor or feel of a hand forged head on a hickory handle .


I enjoy using my traditional tools on smaller projects around the yard, say like when I drag home one tree and need to process it. Some of them work darn good too.


----------



## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> I have some fiskars x-27 ,x-25 and an x-7 ,but they do not have the cool factor or feel of a hand forged head on a hickory handle .



They're still cooler than the hipster who buys a premium axe with wooden handle for it to hang on a wall until they split some kiln dried firewood for the fire pit during the family cookout.



Mustang71 said:


> I switched from wood this year to either fiber glass or fiskars. When I broke the less than a year old wood sledge handle i decided to try fiberglass. The over strike was an accidental bounce and then snap. Possibly it was a poorly made hickory handle Idk.



Proper grain orientation helps, but given enough force or torque, wood will give way and break. Most hung or replaced hardware store handles often don't have good grain. You really have to search hard and hand select it.



svk said:


> I enjoy using my traditional tools on smaller projects around the yard, say like when I drag home one tree and need to process it. Some of them work darn good too.



The best tools are what work well for the person and are enjoyable to use.


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> They're still cooler than the hipster who buys a premium axe with wooden handle for it to hang on a wall until they split some kiln dried firewood for the fire pit during the family cookout.


I got into a splitting tool argument with one of these types on a FB page based on a different topic. That was fun.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> I got into a splitting tool argument with one of these types on a FB page based on a different topic. That was fun.



Oh, boy... got the Cliff's Notes edition on that story? Sounds juicy...


----------



## saewoody

Philbert said:


> Not a splitting tool, but first time I saw one of these.
> 
> View attachment 616370
> 
> 
> Philbert



I’ve had mine for about six months now. I find it very handy and make sure I always have it with me. I wish they made one that was longer, like maybe 36 inches.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LondonNeil

I just checked, the couple of comments about the fiskars hookaroon were that it didn't hold so well in some wood types. TBH you can say that about any hookaroon.


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Oh, boy... got the Cliff's Notes edition on that story? Sounds juicy...


Yuppie type fellow who has been interested in said topic for a couple years and of course knows everything about everything, argues on virtually every post someone makes, and shames anyone who doesn't agree with him. Has a high end European axe on display which didn't appear to have ever been used. Started picking at me over using chopping axes to split wood. Told him I needed to rotate through and give every tool a chance to do some work and since I had about 40 axes I didn't feel the need to split with a maul unless necessary. Then he tried to tell me about Leveraxes which I of course have both models sitting at my house. This is of course after we'd done battle on other topics where he had come down on good folks with his holier than though crap and I'd called him out on that as well. 

Eventually the site owner told him and another dude to BTFO of people but he never bothered me again lol.


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> I just checked, the couple of comments about the fiskars hookaroon were that it didn't hold so well in some wood types. TBH you can say that about any hookaroon.



I agree, some really dense woods when green, the hook doesn't want to stick in no matter how fine you file it. Seems to work best with seasoned or drier wood.


----------



## Lowhog

I was eyeballing a fiskars pole saw today at the local fleetfarm supply. Has anyone here give one a try?


----------



## Philbert

Heavier pick will drive deeper, all things considered. But also heavier to swing. 

Philbert


----------



## Mustang71

Lowhog said:


> I was eyeballing a fiskars pole saw today at the local fleetfarm supply. Has anyone here give one a try?



I have the 12 foot one it is a nice sharp saw. Has chainsaw style teeth. I'd get the 14 foot one if I did it again. I've cut 6 inch limbs down with it.


----------



## Brian72

Lowhog said:


> I was eyeballing a fiskars pole saw today at the local fleetfarm supply. Has anyone here give one a try?


I have 5 or 6 different Fiskars tools and all perform very well and reasonably priced. If I'm looking for a specific tool and they make it, I'll buy it.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


----------



## Lowhog

How be darn the Gransfors Scandinavian forest axe came in the mail today on my Bday. The axe is a amazing piece of workmanship. I bumped my thumb into the edge and now I'm wearing a band aid. This sucker is as sharp as a razor!!


----------



## Brian72

Lowhog said:


> How be darn the Gransfors Scandinavian forest axe came in the mail today on my Bday. The axe is a amazing piece of workmanship. I bumped my thumb into the edge and now I'm wearing a band aid. This sucker is as sharp as a razor!! View attachment 616616


Very nice. Happy birthday! I gotta find other stuff to read to kill time. Now I want an axe!

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


----------



## svk

That's a beautiful tool!

Please talk to us about the little circular item on top of the owners manual.


----------



## Lowhog

svk said:


> That's a beautiful tool!
> 
> Please talk to us about the little circular item on top of the owners manual.


That is a bevel or angle gauge for checking angles on knifes axes mauls and what have you. The axe alone was not enough for free shipping so I ordered the gauge with.


----------



## Lowhog

A Richard Kell brass bevel gauge. A couple videos on utube about it.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Yuppie type fellow who has been interested in said topic for a couple years and of course knows everything about everything, argues on virtually every post someone makes, and shames anyone who doesn't agree with him. Has a high end European axe on display which didn't appear to have ever been used. Started picking at me over using chopping axes to split wood. Told him I needed to rotate through and give every tool a chance to do some work and since I had about 40 axes I didn't feel the need to split with a maul unless necessary. Then he tried to tell me about Leveraxes which I of course have both models sitting at my house. This is of course after we'd done battle on other topics where he had come down on good folks with his holier than though crap and I'd called him out on that as well.
> 
> Eventually the site owner told him and another dude to BTFO of people but he never bothered me again lol.



Sounds like this person lives more inside their own head than in the field, I know a few types myself. I like to hear about these encounters, it helps check myself. I am not nearly as seasoned as most of you here on this board. The knowledge base and enthusiasm is what lead me here in the first place. I'm actually a bit of a "noOb" myself according to some standards, likely having much less experience than what is assumed according to my posts. I definitely do NOT want to be this guy...



Philbert said:


> Heavier pick will drive deeper, all things considered. But also heavier to swing.
> 
> Philbert



Good point, I thought about adding a weighted band to my home-made pickaroon, but seems like it'd be better served to start from scratch or spend the coin. The only reason I made the one I posted it because it cost me nothing. The handle was free, a broken maul handle, and I found the carriage bolt. It only cost me my time and effort.



Lowhog said:


> How be darn the Gransfors Scandinavian forest axe came in the mail today on my Bday. The axe is a amazing piece of workmanship. I bumped my thumb into the edge and now I'm wearing a band aid. This sucker is as sharp as a razor!! View attachment 616616



What a beautiful piece, that should serve you well. I've some close to buying one for myself on more than few occasions. Let us know how she chops!


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Sounds like this person lives more inside their own head than in the field, I know a few types myself. I like to hear about these encounters, it helps check myself. I am not nearly as seasoned as most of you here on this board. The knowledge base and enthusiasm is what lead me here in the first place. I'm actually a bit of a "noOb" myself according to some standards, likely having much less experience than what is assumed according to my posts. I definitely do NOT want to be this guy...


The nice thing around here (firewood forum) is we help each other out and the bullies and know it alls have moved along to thump chests elsewhere. Even 5 years ago you'd get jumped for bringing up certain topics (Fiskars being one of them). It's great to have a place where folks can feel comfortable asking questions.


----------



## Multifaceted

Was tending to my tools and axes this evening and decided to take a good look at my "new to me" spaltaxt from Helko that I bought early this spring. An estimated 4-5 cords split with it since I got it, and the leather collar guard has taken a beating. It nearly failed early during my last Ash splitting session, so much as that I had to wrap it in paracord to keep the leather from peeling away and exposing the wood. Hickory is strong, but gnarly rounds having the handle pass through the splits with force can destroy any wood. This Ash was wide. I can say that the paracord over top the leather held up very well, only had to re-position a few times to keep the coils aligned. Here is the aftermath:







Here it is with the paracord "Band-aid" removed:





This is the only damage the handle has suffered in 4-5 cords split this year:





Anddd.... the parts:


----------



## Lowhog

A very nice splitting axe!


----------



## Multifaceted

Thanks, guys. I have posted it before, but in the last three months it's gotten a lot of use, figured I show how it's holding up. The steel holds an edge very well, just need to scrub it with some steel wool and kerosene and strop after a good use. The leather collar is toast, pointless to put it back on now. Was a freebie I got using a credit balance on Amazon. I'm thinking of making a kydex collar with a Paracord wrap. Handle strikes aren't an issue with small to medium sized logs, but the wide ones, it's a foregone conclusion.

svk, agreed. I like it here. It's easy to be opinionated on the web, just trying to be conscientious is all. Sometimes I look back a my earlier replies and think I get ahead of myself. I dunno. Anyway, cheers!


----------



## LondonNeil

I was thinking on something Skillcult/Steven Edholm said about maybe wrapping with cloth and gluing. I thought either nylon mesh or better glass fibre matt glued on would be tough if the right glue were used. I tend to think epoxy might be too brittle, I think the ideal would be something that soaked in easily and dried tough but not brittle, maybe BLO would be enough? dunno, just thinking aloud.


----------



## LondonNeil

i bet this stuff would work well! its the stuff they use these days to cast your broken arm/leg, fibre glass mesh with resin impregnated.

http://orthotape.co.uk/Fix-it-wrap-strong-fiberglass-repair-tape-fiberfix-UK.asp


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> i bet this stuff would work well! its the stuff they use these days to cast your broken arm/leg, fibre glass mesh with resin impregnated.
> 
> http://orthotape.co.uk/Fix-it-wrap-strong-fiberglass-repair-tape-fiberfix-UK.asp




Huh.... now you've got me thinking... I see that stuff at the hardware store. I would like to have a collar removable so to treat the handle with BLO from time to time. I think you're on to something.


----------



## Lowhog

I seen a thick rubber handle protection collar somewhere. Let me think about it for a year or so and maybe it will pop into my pea brain.


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## Lowhog

Looking at the wetterlings hudson bay axe on amazon and ebay before they are all gone. Just wondering how the quality is on what is still available.


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> i bet this stuff would work well! its the stuff they use these days to cast your broken arm/leg, fibre glass mesh with resin impregnated.
> 
> http://orthotape.co.uk/Fix-it-wrap-strong-fiberglass-repair-tape-fiberfix-UK.asp


That looks like good stuff especially if you end up with a couple of "whoopsies" like I often do.


----------



## svk

Lowhog said:


> Looking at the wetterlings hudson bay axe on amazon and ebay before they are all gone. Just wondering how the quality is on what is still available.


Can't imagine any issues with their products?


----------



## Lowhog

Amazon its called a VB groundbreakers hs2 hammer & maul handle saver h-2 $8.86 in price. SVK they have a model for a axe handle also!


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## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> I seen a thick rubber handle protection collar somewhere. Let me think about it for a year or so and maybe it will pop into my pea brain.



I know what you're talking about, seen them before, but if we're both talking about the same thing, they're a bit wide and kind of goofy looking...



Lowhog said:


> Looking at the wetterlings hudson bay axe on amazon and ebay before they are all gone. Just wondering how the quality is on what is still available.



I absolutely love my Wetterlings Hudson Bay, my current go-to axe for light chores. I'll post pics if it when I get home from work.

I bought mine from Canadian Outdoor Equipment for about $25 less than the Amazon seller. I actually originally bought one from Amazon, but returned it because the head was loose. Of course, I'm capable of fixing it, but after paying the money I expected a good tight fit.



svk said:


> That looks like good stuff especially if you end up with a couple of "whoopsies" like I often do.
> 
> View attachment 616748



I really like that axe, is it your 5 pounder?


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> I know what you're talking about, seen them before, but if we're both talking about the same thing, they're a bit wide and kind of goofy looking...
> 
> 
> 
> I absolutely love my Wetterlings Hudson Bay, my current go-to axe for light chores. I'll post pics if it when I get home from work.
> 
> I bought mine from Canadian Outdoor Equipment for about $25 less than the Amazon seller. I actually originally bought one from Amazon, but returned it because the head was loose. Of course, I'm capable of fixing it, but after paying the money I expected a good tight fit.
> 
> 
> 
> I really like that axe, is it your 5 pounder?


So the second one was seated tight?

I have my recently rehung hudsons bay axe that I need to strip the crappy varnish from House Handle and run with BLO. I also have another short handled axe that has a painted handle that will be stripped and redone with BLO.


----------



## Lowhog

I purchased some linseed oil yesterday in Alex for the granfors and another felling axe I have. Candian outdoor is sold out on Wetterlings, its high price on Amazon or Ebay only.


----------



## Lowhog

The Wife just ordered the Wetterlings off Amazon for me 169.00. Ebay 173.00 on up over 220.00.


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## Multifaceted

svk said:


> So the second one was seated tight?
> 
> I have my recently rehung hudsons bay axe that I need to strip the crappy varnish from House Handle and run with BLO. I also have another short handled axe that has a painted handle that will be stripped and redone with BLO.



Oh, yes, the second one came very tight. I dare say it's in there for life, only a wood wedge too.

Good deal and have fun with those two projects, definitely try using the spokeshave if you can find one. Makes it less aggravating 



Lowhog said:


> I purchased some linseed oil yesterday in Alex for the granfors and another felling axe I have. Candian outdoor is sold out on Wetterlings, its high price on Amazon or Ebay only.



Ah... I see, figures they'd be running low on inventory. I thought I saw them in stock last time I was there, but probably was mistaken. Wiseman Trading down in AL has them for the same price as Amazon, but without the Prime free shipping... Wiseman still has a few other Wetterlings axes. Good company, they are who I bought the above Helko Spaltaxt from.


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## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> The Wife just ordered the Wetterlings off Amazon for me 169.00. Ebay 173.00 on up over 220.00.



Nice! You should marry her again for that. My wife has never bought me an axe, instead she just beats up the Pulaski up on the hill in the woods, then I have to re-sharpen it...


----------



## Philbert

The OrthoTape looks similar to fiberglass cast material (for broken bones) that is activated with water and sets hard. Also sold as a muffler bandage in auto parts stores.



Lowhog said:


> I seen a thick rubber handle protection collar somewhere.


I would think that this approach would be better. Rubber is resilient and will not crack. Also removable.

Back in the 'olden days' I used to wrap my bicycle handlebars with rubber strips cut from old inner tubes, then cover / secure this with cloth tape over the top. Hockey tape would work well. Padded. Resilient. Easy to remove. Cheap.

Here is a similar idea using heater hose (could also use a piece of bicycle tire):


Or Google '_VB Groundbreakers Handle Saver_' (several models) for a commercially made one.

Philbert


----------



## Philbert

Ironically, I don't see the Handle Savers on their web page, but they seem to have a nice selection of replacement handles!

http://www.vbmfg.com/index.html


Philbert


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## Lowhog

Fiskars 13" power tooth hand saw came in today. Will be testing it out on 200 or so Norway Pines and Spruce that need pruning on the bottom. Also a Helko Werk handle guard. The handle guard came with a bottle of axe head oil and their axe catalog. The guard says Germany but is made in the US. When I showed my Wife the axe catalog she started shaking her head.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Fiskars 13" power tooth hand saw came in today. Will be testing it out on 200 or so Norway Pines and Spruce that need pruning on the bottom. Also a Helko Werk handle guard. The handle guard came with a bottle of axe head oil and their axe catalog. The guard says Germany but is made in the US. When I showed my Wife the axe catalog she started shaking her head.View attachment 616757
> View attachment 616758



That's the same leather collar I had on my Hello Spaltaxt, you can see in my pics how it got shredded from repeated splitting. It looks great, but the big logs chewed it up!


----------



## Lowhog

I like the heater hose idea. The helko collar I ordered before I seen yours beat to death.


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## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> I like the heater hose idea. The helko collar I ordered before I seen yours beat to death.



It'll look nice on your Gransförs, is that what it's for? I think it would fare much better on a felling/chopping axe. Mine is on a splitting axe, so that area is subject to much more trauma.


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## Lowhog

I was thinking for the Gransfors. My Wife ordered a Husqvarna 13" hatchet for me a few days ago. It was discounted under 20 bucks on Amazon. I think they are made by Hults. I better buy two more of those fancy looking leather collars soon.


----------



## svk

Lowhog said:


> Fiskars 13" power tooth hand saw came in today. Will be testing it out on 200 or so Norway Pines and Spruce that need pruning on the bottom. Also a Helko Werk handle guard. The handle guard came with a bottle of axe head oil and their axe catalog. The guard says Germany but is made in the US. When I showed my Wife the axe catalog she started shaking her head.View attachment 616757
> View attachment 616758


Just a thought too, you could put another layer of padding, say burlap or leather under that collar before you thread the back of it to add a little more cushion.


----------



## Dieseldash

Here's a few pics of the axe I got to give to my brother for Christmas. He has a POS Chinese hatchet at his cabin that I can't stand...

What do you guys think of these Stihl axes? This one is the universal Forestry/Felling axe. Got it for $39 bucks. Feels like it'll be great for kindling and light splitting.


----------



## Ronaldo

All this talk about putting fiberglass, rubber, burlap, cord, etc, etc on the wooden handles makes me wonder.......just re handle with a synthetic and be done with it. Or get a Fiskars and you'll have it. Just stirring the pot fellas, I'd like a nice splitting axe with a wooden handle too!

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


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## svk

Ronaldo said:


> All this talk about putting fiberglass, rubber, burlap, cord, etc, etc on the wooden handles makes me wonder.......just re handle with a synthetic and be done with it. Or get a Fiskars and you'll have it. Just stirring the pot fellas, I'd like a nice splitting axe with a wooden handle too!
> 
> Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


What would we do with all of our spare time if we didn't have to hang, rehang, reshape, sand, oil, reoil, fit our wooden tools with guards, and discuss the aforementioned ad nauseam?


----------



## Multifaceted

Ronaldo said:


> All this talk about putting fiberglass, rubber, burlap, cord, etc, etc on the wooden handles makes me wonder.......just re handle with a synthetic and be done with it. Or get a Fiskars and you'll have it. Just stirring the pot fellas, I'd like a nice splitting axe with a wooden handle too!
> 
> Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk



It's preference. The best answer I can give is that a properly tuned/thinned handle feels like it has better spring and shock absorption, but that's just me. A wooden handle can be tailored to the user as well. As to the rest, well, I restore vintage tools and axes as a hobby, so I'm biased 



svk said:


> What would we do with all of our spare time if we didn't have to hang, rehang, reshape, sand, oil, reoil, fit our wooden tools with guards, and discuss the aforementioned ad nauseam?



Hmm... probably chop and split more wood? Maybe fix that gutter, or mend that fence ...


----------



## Philbert

Ronaldo said:


> All this talk about putting fiberglass, rubber, burlap, cord, etc, etc on the wooden handles makes me wonder.......Just stirring the pot fellas . . .


(If you really want to '_stir the pot_' tell them to just aim better!)

Philbert


----------



## Trx250r180

Dieseldash said:


> Here's a few pics of the axe I got to give to my brother for Christmas. He has a POS Chinese hatchet at his cabin that I can't stand...
> 
> What do you guys think of these Stihl axes? This one is the universal Forestry/Felling axe. Got it for $39 bucks. Feels like it'll be great for kindling and light splitting.
> 
> View attachment 616774
> 
> 
> View attachment 616775



I have this same one ,i compare it to my husqvarna carpenters axe for size ,it has a good feel to it ,but the sharp edge is more fragile then the husqvarna ,different steel i guess ,it is a great size to use for pounding wedges felling trees ,the backside is nice and wide ,good size to keep by the wood stove to make the pieces smaller .Nice product for the price though . I felt the other one that stihl made ,the $100 dollar one ,it may be better quality ,but the handle felt fat ,and was head heavy ,this one felt better to me and was cheaper .


----------



## LondonNeil

Multifaceted said:


> Huh.... now you've got me thinking... I see that stuff at the hardware store. I would like to have a collar removable so to treat the handle with BLO from time to time. I think you're on to something.


That would be easy, just wrap the handle in something, then wrap the ortho tape and active, the 'underware' will ensure it doesn't stick.



Philbert said:


> The OrthoTape looks similar to fiberglass cast material (for broken bones) that is activated with water and sets hard.
> Philbert


THat's the stuff.



Lowhog said:


> Fiskars 13" power tooth hand saw came in today. Will be testing it out on 200 or so Norway Pines and Spruce that need pruning on the bottom.


Ooooo, I need a new pruning saw, interested in this.



Lowhog said:


> My Wife ordered a Husqvarna 13" hatchet for me a few days ago. It was discounted under 20 bucks on Amazon. I think they are made by Hults.


Nice!



Ronaldo said:


> All this talk about putting fiberglass, rubber, burlap, cord, etc, etc on the wooden handles makes me wonder.......just re handle with a synthetic and be done with it. Or get a Fiskars and you'll have it.



LOL! yeah. I actually thing the PA stuff looks great as it is so functional, but some of the axes on the renovation thread are a thing of beauty.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> The Wife just ordered the Wetterlings off Amazon for me 169.00. Ebay 173.00 on up over 220.00.



Here's mine, I love it. 2.5 lb The bit is very hard steel, not easy to sharpen but holds the edge very well once you dial it in. The file just skates over it... but it takes stoned well.










Compared to my other no-name 2 lb Hudson Bay pattern:









The bit profile is a little cheeky, and more wedge shaped than most other Hudson Bay patterns I've seen, which makes this a very versatile light ax. It's excellent as a light splitter, and the wedge shape throws nice chips, but you need to give it a little more power in the arc of your swing due to the lower weight in order to do that. I also keep it in a scabbard on my power saw belt for pounding wedges.


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> Here's mine, I love it. 2.5 lb The bit is very hard steel, not easy to sharpen but holds the edge very well once you dial it in. The file just skates over it... but it takes stoned well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compared to my other no-name 2 lb Hudson Bay pattern:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bit profile is a little cheeky, and more wedge shaped than most other Hudson Bay patterns I've seen, which makes this a very versatile light ax. It's excellent as a light splitter, and the wedge shape throws nice chips, but you need to give it a little more power in the arc of your swing due to the lower weight in order to do that. I also keep it in a scabbard on my power saw belt for pounding wedges.


 Sweet! Much more cheek then the sfa. Like you say it should split kindling much easier.


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## Lowhog

On these hard steel axes in super cold weather the old time axe men would warm the heads up under their armpits before they started chopping hardwood.


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## Lowhog

The new handle is sucking up the oil. I see they use beeswax on handles also. I'll start rendering my wax I have 8 hives.


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## Dieseldash

Trx250r180 said:


> I have this same one ,i compare it to my husqvarna carpenters axe for size ,it has a good feel to it ,but the sharp edge is more fragile then the husqvarna ,different steel i guess ,it is a great size to use for pounding wedges felling trees ,the backside is nice and wide ,good size to keep by the wood stove to make the pieces smaller .Nice product for the price though . I felt the other one that stihl made ,the $100 dollar one ,it may be better quality ,but the handle felt fat ,and was head heavy ,this one felt better to me and was cheaper .



I think the Husky carpenters axe might be my next axe. Thanks for the comparison, I was wondering how large that Husky axe was. My favorite hatchet is a small carpenters hatchet with hickory handle. Best kindling hatchet I've ever used.


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## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Sweet! Much more cheek then the sfa. Like you say it should split kindling much easier.



Indeed, but it won't bite as deep and you can't put a nice keen Scandi grind on it like the SFA.



Lowhog said:


> On these hard steel axes in super cold weather the old time axe men would warm the heads up under their armpits before they started chopping hardwood.



I've heard that as well. though I've never had to do that. I think that goes with any hardened steel. The Wetterlings is hardened to 57-58 HRC, not sure about the Gransförs, but considering the steel they use, which according to them is 0.55% carbon, so similar to 1055 and can easily achieve a Rockwell hardness of the mid-50's. 



Dieseldash said:


> I think the Husky carpenters axe might be my next axe. Thanks for the comparison, I was wondering how large that Husky axe was. My favorite hatchet is a small carpenters hatchet with hickory handle. Best kindling hatchet I've ever used.



I really like the design of the Husqvarna carpenter's ax, the curved beard seems as if it lets you easily choke up on the handle for kindling splitting or more precise work.


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## Trx250r180

forest axe, carpenter ace ,and hatchet by husqvarna ,the carpenter is heavier than the longer handled forest axe .


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## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> View attachment 616919
> View attachment 616920
> forest axe, carpenter ace ,and hatchet by husqvarna ,the carpenter is heavier than the longer handled forest axe .



Nice looking trio you have there!


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## svk

Beautiful and deadly


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## Lowhog

I'm wondering if the chopper 1 splitting axe is being made in the states again or is it being made overseas?


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## Lowhog

Wetterlings Hudson Bay came via ups today. Thoughts on quality?


----------



## abbott295

I walked into the local prepper store the other day and they had the Gransfors Bruk axes. Two hatchets and two axes, I think it was. Prices were from about $120 to $200. I didn't buy any. 

When my son returned to Saint Petersbrug after Hurricane Irma, not knowing what he was going to find, I sent three axes, one chainsaw and a machete with him. They were the handiest to find ones. I have no idea what they were. The expectation was that they could get out of his hands and never find their way back home. But when he got there, it was nowhere near as bad as it could have been. None of the equipment was used, so I may get them back someday.


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## dancan

While it's not the "Perfect" grain on that Wetterlings I wouldn't sweat it , try and break it , you'll have to abuse it to do so .
Sure looks like a nice one for splitting kindling , I think it will be more useful than than one with thin cheeks .


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## Lowhog

The Gransfors was cheaper and a better finish except for the edge.


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## dancan

I like the rougher finish , it shows that it was man made , not stamped out by a machine .
Besides , anyone can polish a turd


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## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Wetterlings Hudson Bay came via ups today. Thoughts on quality?View attachment 617460
> View attachment 617461
> View attachment 617462
> View attachment 617463



Ah, this brings back fond memories of when first unboxed my Wetterlings HB, look at that fresh wood! I agree with *dancan* that the end grain is not the best, but it's still acceptable being <45°.

I don't think you'll have any issues with that grain orientation and regular use, it's not that long of a haft and not a heavy ax either. Enjoy it, I think the world of mine!


----------



## Multifaceted

Well, finally got the first snow of the season, so since I can't do much yard work or in the way of cutting wood, I decided to make a Kydex ax collar guard for my Helko German Spaltaxt. It is 0.125" (1/8" or 3.14mm) thick Kydex. Used my original leather collar guard as a template. Cut the Kydex out with a rotary tool, then used a punch the set the holes and drilled them w/ countersink. I heat it up in my toaster oven @ 250 degrees F (121 C), and in about 5 minutes it was ready to form. Took about 30-40 minutes total from start to finish. Should hold up much better to the abuse of splitting than heavy top grain leather. I wish I had some more logs to test it out on, but I need to fell a few more trees in order to do that!


----------



## Mustang71

I wish I had that kind of time. I struggle to find time to do the things I need to do.


----------



## Philbert

Multifaceted said:


> . . . I decided to make a Kydex ax collar guard for my Helko German Spaltaxt.


Looks nice!

Had to look up 'Kydex' though:
'_Kydex is a line of thermoplastic materials. It has a wide variety of applications, including firearm holsters, sheaths, and for knives, originally produced for use in aircraft interiors.

It is an acrylic-polyvinyl chloride composite engineered for thermoforming fabrication. From acrylic, it obtains rigidity and formability; from PVC, toughness, chemical resistance and good interior finish ratings. Sheet thickness ranges from .028 to .500 inches and can be thermoformed, post formed, brake formed and laminated.

For some applications it is used as replacement for leather, where it has the following advantages:
Waterproof.
Scratch resistant.
Holds its shape better, and will not stretch or shrink under normal conditions
Lower friction.
Low flammability.'_ (heavily edited / adapted from Wikipedia)

Philbert


----------



## Multifaceted

Mustang71 said:


> I wish I had that kind of time. I struggle to find time to do the things I need to do.



Oh, I know the feeling, believe me. My plate is very full right now, I have to make time for this stuff.


----------



## Mustang71

The wife works Saturday and a couple nights a week and we have a 5 month old and a 3 year old she's taking them grocery shopping later so I can get some stuff done. Lol at least in summer time I get 3 hours to myself a week mowing the lawn.


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> Well, finally got the first snow of the season, so since I can't do much yard work or in the way of cutting wood, I decided to make a Kydex ax collar guard for my Helko German Spaltaxt. It is 0.125" (1/8" or 3.14mm) thick Kydex. Used my original leather collar guard as a template. Cut the Kydex out with a rotary tool, then used a punch the set the holes and drilled them w/ countersink. I heat it up in my toaster oven @ 250 degrees F (121 C), and in about 5 minutes it was ready to form. Took about 30-40 minutes total from start to finish. Should hold up much better to the abuse of splitting than heavy top grain leather. I wish I had some more logs to test it out on, but I need to fell a few more trees in order to do that!


 Dang that's a great job!


----------



## Multifaceted

Mustang71 said:


> The wife works Saturday and a couple nights a week and we have a 5 month old and a 3 year old she's taking them grocery shopping later so I can get some stuff done. Lol at least in summer time I get 3 hours to myself a week mowing the lawn.



Ah, that's why. We have no kids (yet), but we do have two dogs and four other critter pets. and I'm not a big TV watcher or sports guy, so maybe that helps too, I don't know. That will change soon enough though, we're both not getting any younger so unless I want to be in my 60's raising teenagers, we better get to it. Also, next month is going to be tough, my wife goes to the on-call night shift rotation (crime scene investigator), so we'll only see each other on the weekends.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Dang that's a great job!


Thanks! It was much easier and faster than I had anticipated.


----------



## Lowhog

Looking at this Helko splitting maul with a hookaroo. I think its a great idea!


----------



## Multifaceted

I was eyeing that up to a while ago, went with the Spaltaxt instead because I was already familiar with the design on a cheaper Truper one I was using. That little beard hooker ought to come in handle, looks heavy too. I think it was 6 or 8 pounds if I remember correctly.


----------



## Ronaldo

That Kydex wrap looks great! Good job. I'm sure it'll hold up a lot better.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


----------



## Multifaceted

Ronaldo said:


> That Kydex wrap looks great! Good job. I'm sure it'll hold up a lot better.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk



Thank you! Looking forward to abusing it


----------



## Lowhog

That is a tiny woodshed you have. That would last about three hours in my neck of the woods.


----------



## LondonNeil

That Helko is a very similar shape to my stihl maul. I don't use the hook. The maul is f'in heavy (it's the 8lb pro version) so hefting it around is hard enough let alone trying to control/lift a log with the split. It's position means it's only really for standing up a toppled log, or pulling a bit toward you, but you don't want to reach out with 8lbs on the end of a 3' lever... It's easier to reach to one side where I've propped my bison hookaroon, or to just bend over and use my hands!


----------



## Mustang71

Lowhog said:


> That is a tiny woodshed you have. That would last about three hours in my neck of the woods.



Now u know y he splits with an axe. It would take years to recover the cost of a splitter. Lol


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> That is a tiny woodshed you have. That would last about three hours in my neck of the woods.



Humble beginnings, we all have to start somewhere 



Mustang71 said:


> Now u know y he splits with an axe. It would take years to recover the cost of a splitter. Lol



Ha ha, you're not kidding


----------



## Lowhog

It will be interesting to see how that Kydex holds up on a full miss when its 10 degrees.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> It will be interesting to see how that Kydex holds up on a full miss when its 10 degrees.



Indeed, and splitting when it's below freezing is my favorite time to do it. The wood just pops open when frozen and I don't overheat. I run hot as it is, the cold helps regulate my temperature. In the past, my neighbors think I'm crazy out shoveling snow in a t-shirt... Kydex does get brittle in cold temps like many other materials. I have enough to make four more if I need to. Not going to say I won't ever miss, my aim is pretty good (just ask muh wife) - but it always seems the damage to the collar comes from passing through the wood, particularly with knotty or really stringy species...


----------



## Lowhog

Next spring I'll be hitting the big flea markets maybe I can get lucky and find something thats marked. Most of the axes I find around here at the antique malls are unmarked and high priced. Looking for a norlund cabin axe. I would think your neck of the woods they can be found.


----------



## Mustang71

I was in an old guys basement installing a furnace a few years ago and he had probably a hundred axes some double sided. I picked one up went to run my finger down the edge of it and damn it was razor sharp. Idk what he was doing with all of them he could barely walk.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Next spring I'll be hitting the big flea markets maybe I can get lucky and find something thats marked. Most of the axes I find around here at the antique malls are unmarked and high priced. Looking for a norlund cabin axe. I would think your neck of the woods they can be found.



I have been looking for a Norlund anything for a while now to no avail. You'd think they'd be relatively common around here since some were manufactured by Mann up in Lewistown. Seems that they've been sought after for a number of years now, something akin to Gresham's law of currency. If I see one, I'll keep you in mind.



Mustang71 said:


> I was in an old guys basement installing a furnace a few years ago and he had probably a hundred axes some double sided. I picked one up went to run my finger down the edge of it and damn it was razor sharp. Idk what he was doing with all of them he could barely walk.



A man after my own heart! I like a keen, shaving sharp axe.


----------



## svk

These 3.5 lb offerings from Husky look good and the price is right.




Well they look good except for the end grain... 
The one on the left is ok.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> These 3.5 lb offerings from Husky look good and the price is right.
> 
> View attachment 617672
> 
> 
> Well they look good except for the end grain...
> The one on the left is ok.
> View attachment 617673



Yeah, the one on the left is passable, how's the end grain on the palmswell of the handle? You going to pick one up? Seem to have a nice fit and finish.

Not certain, but I think Apex Tool Group makes them, the same group who make Collins and Plumb now.


----------



## Lowhog

Y


svk said:


> These 3.5 lb offerings from Husky look good and the price is right.
> 
> View attachment 617672
> 
> 
> Well they look good except for the end grain...
> The one on the left is ok.
> View attachment 617673


Yes the one on the left I would grab.


----------



## Lowhog

Mustang71 said:


> I was in an old guys basement installing a furnace a few years ago and he had probably a hundred axes some double sided. I picked one up went to run my finger down the edge of it and damn it was razor sharp. Idk what he was doing with all of them he could barely walk.


And you didn't go back with apple pie in hand and offering to take out his garbage weekly?


----------



## Mustang71

svk said:


> These 3.5 lb offerings from Husky look good and the price is right.
> 
> View attachment 617672
> 
> 
> Well they look good except for the end grain...
> The one on the left is ok.
> View attachment 617673



That's y I went all fiberglass. I dont know much about axes but I do know to look for a good grain. Nothing at the home depot was very good looking and for a few more dollars you could get a fiberglass handle.


----------



## Mustang71

Lowhog said:


> And you didn't go back with apple pie in hand and offering to take out his garbage weekly?



I know where he lives lol he lives in a patio home community about 3 minutes from my work. Maybe an estate sale some day.


----------



## Multifaceted

It's a crap shoot with handle quality at hardware stores anymore, and it's tough to find anything with quality carbon alloy, properly tempered steel. That's why I dig the vintage stuff, it's tough to find that kind of quality any more. As to handles, on a few occasions I've found good to acceptable handle grain. What I usually do is buy them from either House Handle Co. or Beaver-Tooth Handle Co. A long term goal is to make them myself.


----------



## Lowhog

Looking at older craftsman axes on the bay seems like they are still price decent.


----------



## svk

I wasn't going to but with your encouragement I may pick it up if it's still there when I go there later.


----------



## Mustang71

I had a short handle small craftsman axe my dad broke the handle on me and gave me a harbor fright axe in return well they both have steel handles on them now but I kept the craftsman short and it rides on the atv for a clearing axe. I have no issue with steel handle axes like some people do.


----------



## Multifaceted

Jeezo flip, do folks on here really bust others chops over handle material? I mean, I like wood on my axes but that's just my preference. Metal handle? OK, I love my Estwing Hunter's Hatchet. Use it all the time, it's on my lawn tractor. What's the big deal? I think the most important part is actually using the dang tool.


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Jeezo flip, do folks on here really bust others chops over handle material? I mean, I like wood on my axes but that's just my preference. Metal handle? OK, I love my Estwing Hunter's Hatchet. Use it all the time, it's on my lawn tractor. What's the big deal? I think the most important part is actually using the dang tool.


I do not know why, but handle material was a serious bone of contention on here for a while. The anti-synthetic crowd's leader Ctyank does not post much anymore but man there were some classics on here. I will see if I can dig one up.

They were almost as good as whitespider vs slowp debates


----------



## svk

So when I went to HD tonight I picked up the axe on the left. The handle finish is pretty rough and about half of the handle is printed with warning labels. Once it warms up a bit so I can sit on the patio I will sand it down and do a coat of BLO. FYI the grain was true through the bottom of the handle so that sealed the deal.


----------



## svk

@Multifaceted This is typical and acutally calmer than many of the debates.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars.220295/page-2#post-4066657

Not fiskars related but here is another doozy from the yank

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/like-limit-needed.276227/

This one was kinda Fiskars related and took on a personality of it's own with at least a couple different Brush Ape aliases participating.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars-x27-what-a-piece-of-plastic.269270/


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> I do not know why, but handle material was a serious bone of contention on here for a while. The anti-synthetic crowd's leader Ctyank does not post much anymore but man there were some classics on here. I will see if I can dig one up.
> 
> They were almost as good as whitespider vs slowp debates



Wow... it's one thing to have a preference and share an opinion with experience; another thing to make it dogmatic. When it comes to accumulating axes, or gear, or equipment, I'm guilty as charged. My wife calls me a "geardo" (think gear+weirdo.... which is funny because she wears more stuff on her belt during work than I do) - but it's just tools, we're not saving lives here.



svk said:


> So when I went to HD tonight I picked up the axe on the left. The handle finish is pretty rough and about half of the handle is printed with warning labels. Once it warms up a bit so I can sit on the patio I will sand it down and do a coat of BLO. FYI the grain was true through the bottom of the handle so that sealed the deal.



Sounds like you got a nice beater or truck ax, perhaps even a daily driver. Judging from the picks, it seems the hanging was done well enough, the seating of the head appeared to be tight.



svk said:


> @Multifaceted This is typical and acutally calmer than many of the debates.
> 
> https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars.220295/page-2#post-4066657
> 
> Not fiskars related but here is another doozy from the yank
> 
> https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/like-limit-needed.276227/
> 
> This one was kinda Fiskars related and took on a personality of it's own with at least a couple different Brush Ape aliases participating.
> 
> https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars-x27-what-a-piece-of-plastic.269270/



Jeez... skimming over a few pages of those threads is laughable. Funny, out of all of my preference for wood handles on tools... take a look into my gun safe and you'll nary but one rifle with a wooden stock... Cognitive dissonance?


----------



## LondonNeil

Your Kydex wrap set me thinking and I've an idea. Abs plastic is impact resistant. I don't know about your side of the pond but over here solvent joint plumbing waste pipe is abs. If heated up it becomes soft and formable. You'd have to be lucky but if a handle were just the right size then a section of pipe, heated in the oven, would slide up the handle and form to fit. If the pipe were to large, slit up the back and join it with the solvent adhesive, or a lace.


----------



## Ronaldo

one rifle with a wooden stock..

I tend to prefer the synthetics on my firearms as well......youre not alone in that camp, bud.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> Your Kydex wrap set me thinking and I've an idea. Abs plastic is impact resistant. I don't know about your side of the pond but over here solvent joint plumbing waste pipe is abs. If heated up it becomes soft and formable. You'd have to be lucky but if a handle were just the right size then a section of pipe, heated in the oven, would slide up the handle and form to fit. If the pipe were to large, slit up the back and join it with the solvent adhesive, or a lace.



Interesting indeed. I've not heard of Abs plastic, but I'll look out for it. I just happened to have the Kydex and Paracord, 30 minutes, and an idea.



Ronaldo said:


> one rifle with a wooden stock..
> 
> I tend to prefer the synthetics on my firearms as well......youre not alone in that camp, bud.
> Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk



For me it's just more happenstance, the patterns I like are more modern than traditional or sporting, and often only come with polymers, wood being an aftermarket customization. Been looking at an M1-A and would like wood on that bad boy over polymer.


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Wow... it's one thing to have a preference and share an opinion with experience; another thing to make it dogmatic. When it comes to accumulating axes, or gear, or equipment, I'm guilty as charged. My wife calls me a "geardo" (think gear+weirdo.... which is funny because she wears more stuff on her belt during work than I do) - but it's just tools, we're not saving lives here.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like you got a nice beater or truck ax, perhaps even a daily driver. Judging from the picks, it seems the hanging was done well enough, the seating of the head appeared to be tight.
> 
> 
> 
> Jeez... skimming over a few pages of those threads is laughable. Funny, out of all of my preference for wood handles on tools... take a look into my gun safe and you'll nary but one rifle with a wooden stock... Cognitive dissonance?


LMAO yeah every Fiskars post got comments like that and not just from him...it was funny once the Fiskars fans (fanboys? lol) grew in numbers and would get on his case.

We haven't even gotten to the Leveraxe yet. Another tool that Yank had denounced without using. SO get this......a bunch of guys were up at the NY gtg. There is CTyank talking smack about the Leveraxe while others are using it and he just stands there running his mouth...it just so happened that when @MechanicMatt was using it, an errant split came off the log, flew through the air and hit old yank right in the shin and just about knocked him off his feet. A bit of Karma there lol.


----------



## Philbert

Multifaceted said:


> I've not heard of Abs plastic, . . .


It's the black plastic drain pipe at the home centers. The white stuff is PVC. 

I still think that a resilient collar (rubber) is better. 

Philbert


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Sounds like you got a nice beater or truck ax, perhaps even a daily driver. Judging from the picks, it seems the hanging was done well enough, the seating of the head appeared to be tight.


It is going to be my everything axe when I am out of town for the winter. I only have a Hudson bay and two "house" axes down here which basically are glorified hatchets.



Multifaceted said:


> Jeez... skimming over a few pages of those threads is laughable. Funny, out of all of my preference for wood handles on tools... take a look into my gun safe and you'll nary but one rifle with a wooden stock... Cognitive dissonance?


I used to have triple digit count of guns and had many synthetic guns of all types. That was another hobby that gave way to kids lol.

Most of my guns now are inherited from my dad and great grandpa as well as a few guns my FIL gave the kids so all of those are wood. So we have two black shotguns, two black pistols, and my dad's BAR was restocked to a real nice laminated wood stock last year because the original was cracking.


----------



## Multifaceted

Philbert said:


> It's the black plastic drain pipe at the home centers. The white stuff is PVC.
> 
> I still think that a resilient collar (rubber) is better.
> 
> Philbert



Ah, I've always referred to that as "black PVC" — you're not talking to a plumber here, but I do know that you-know-what runs downhill. Rubber would be more resilient, but I don't have any wide enough for this ax, and I'm sorry, but those bulky handle savers just look goofy to me.


----------



## Lowhog

I had a used Gransfors American felling axe on my ebay watch list It sold for $518.00. If I find one of these in a second hand store I'll most likely drop to my knees.


----------



## svk

You just need to find someone who doesn't know what the have and doesn't bother to take time to research the makers mark....


----------



## LondonNeil

Nearly Philbert. Over here at least the abs pipe can be got in black, grey or white. The abs is the solvent weld stuff and has a slightly shiny finish, the matt stuff which is push or compression fitting only is PVC.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene

As Wikipedia says, it has rubber like toughness, good down to -20C and to quote,
'The most important mechanical properties of ABS are impact resistance and toughness'

It's glass transition temperature is 105C, so easy to warm and form. Cheap and easy to buy too.


----------



## Lowhog

Red Green would use garden or heater hose, duct tape and call it good to go!


----------



## Philbert

Lowhog said:


> Red Green would use garden or heater hose, duct tape and call it good to go!


I think that heater hose (mentioned above), tire tread, etc. , held on with tape would make a better bumper. 

Philbert


----------



## Philbert

LondonNeil said:


> Nearly Philbert. Over here at least the abs pipe can be got in black, grey or white.


We must have different plastic plumbing. 

Here, I have only seen ABS in black Drain/Waste/Sewer (DWS) pipe. The larger diameters are 'foamed' to reduce weight. 

White PVC (also solvent welded) is the primary pipe used for D/W/S and venting. 

CPVC is solvent welded and can be use for supply lines. 

PEX (different kinds) uses compression fittings, and can be used for in-floor heating and supply lines. 

There is also some other poly tubing that is used for agricultural / farm use. 

Philbert


----------



## Lowhog

I was out picking second hand shops today and here is My $12.00 find of the day. A old Craftsman 3.2 pound head on a 25 inch handle. Still has some of its gun blue. I guess it would be classified as a camp,cabin, or boys axe. I like it!


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> I had a used Gransfors American felling axe on my ebay watch list It sold for $518.00. If I find one of these in a second hand store I'll most likely drop to my knees.



Whew. . . with that kind of coin you might as well put your name on the list for one of those John Neeman/Northmen axes. Up until GB stopped making them they retailed for about 200 USD.



Lowhog said:


> I was out picking second hand shops today and here is My $12.00 find of the day. A old Craftsman 3.2 pound head on a 25 inch handle. Still has some of its gun blue. I guess it would be classified as a camp,cabin, or boys axe. I like it!View attachment 617983
> View attachment 617986



Looks like a Cedar Ax, at 3.2 lb it's too heavy for a boy's ax, seems as if someone re-handled it with s shorter and straight haft.


----------



## svk

Nice Lowhog, that should clean up nice.


----------



## Lowhog

What I was told the Gransfors American felling axe should be back in stock the first 1/4 of 2018. I guess a guy could roll the dice stock up on a few wait intill stock runs out and list them on ebay. Just might end up with a free axe or two.


----------



## Lowhog

svk said:


> Nice Lowhog, that should clean up nice.


I'll look for a new handle for it also


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> What I was told the Gransfors American felling axe should be back in stock the first 1/4 of 2018. I guess a guy could roll the dice stock up on a few wait intill stock runs out and list them on ebay. Just might end up with a free axe or two.



Huh... perhaps I am mistaken then. Come to think of it, I can't remember where I read that the American was only a limited production. That'd be a sweet addition to a collection and a great working axe. 

I'm currently about 8 months wait into my Liam Hoffman axe, when I put in the deposit there was a 12-14 month lead time.


----------



## LondonNeil

If you bought/ got given a Neeman, would you ever use it? Although it would be terrible not to, I'd find it hard to do!


----------



## Multifaceted

I likely would not, but agree that it'd be a shame not too. Those are pieces for high end collectors with deep pockets. The only reason I went in on a Liam Hoffman axe (not as expensive, but more than Gransförs) is, well, bourbon. That's why.


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> I likely would not, but agree that it'd be a shame not too. Those are pieces for high end collectors with deep pockets. The only reason I went in on a Liam Hoffman axe (not as expensive, but more than Gransförs) is, well, bourbon. That's why.


Bourbon ingested prior to ordering?


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Bourbon ingested prior to ordering?



Well, the initial ordering was clear headed, albeit curious. A few days later when I got the email for the deposit I was about three fingers into a neat glass of Woodford Reserve...


----------



## Philbert

Well, I looked at taping some heater hose to the neck of my Fiskars for 'insurance'. But that's where my right grip rests at the start of each stroke. 

Maybe if I used more of a sledge type maul. 

Philbert


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Well, the initial ordering was clear headed, albeit curious. A few days later when I got the email for the deposit I was about three fingers into a neat glass of Woodford Reserve...


We place a big order of salsa and hot sauce from mexgrocer.com about once a year. We have a few favorites that we have bought in various places that are not available at any of the stores back home so we order in volume to make the shipping feasible. They often do 25 or 30 percent off sales and then it is cheaper than a supermarket.

A few years back I was a few cups in and ordered a case of the wrong salsa. It was decent stuff but not like the other version we were supposed to get. I think I ended up eating most of that myself LOL.


----------



## LondonNeil

Philbert said:


> Well, I looked at taping some heater hose to the neck of my Fiskars for 'insurance'. But that's where my right grip rests at the start of each stroke.
> 
> Maybe if I used more of a sledge type maul.
> 
> Philbert



exactly, the thickness gets in the way. I also find a thick rubber not that durable, or at least the both the rubber bumper on a cheap maul I started out with and my cheap sledge hammer died fairly fast.


----------



## Philbert

LondonNeil said:


> exactly, the thickness gets in the way. I also find a thick rubber not that durable, or at least the both the rubber bumper on a cheap maul I started out with and my cheap sledge hammer died fairly fast.


Put the bumper on the wood?

Philbert


----------



## Lowhog

You'll start pushing buttons you shouldn't be pushing drinking that bourbon while browsing.


----------



## Lowhog

Just came in today from over the pond under 30.00 shipped to the mailbox. The forging looks better on this Husqvarna vs the Gransfors or the Wetterlings. The edge is not as sharp but not all that bad. My puck will finish the edge. The sheath is not as good as the others but for over 100.00 less money its expected. On the axe its self all I can do is say WOW! on the craftsmanship. The axe head is perfectly strait all around.


----------



## svk

Very nice!


----------



## Trx250r180

Lowhog said:


> Just came in today from over the pond under 30.00 shipped to the mailbox. The forging looks better on this Husqvarna vs the Gransfors or the Wetterlings. The edge is not as sharp but not all that bad. My puck will finish the edge. The sheath is not as good as the others but for over 100.00 less money its expected. On the axe its self all I can do is say WOW! on the craftsmanship. The axe head is perfectly strait all around.View attachment 618138
> View attachment 618139
> View attachment 618140


I just got the same one from the husky dealer ,they just got 10 in so i was able to pick through them for handle grains ,i got a strait up and down one , i sanded it and burnt then blo ,the more coats i add the better it looks .They are well made like you said .


----------



## Multifaceted

Nice looking hatchet! Hultafors forges the steel for Husqvarna on their axes.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> You'll start pushing buttons you shouldn't be pushing drinking that bourbon while browsing.



I know, it's a shame... and because of that I'll soon have to receive a beautiful hand forged American axe.


----------



## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> Nice looking hatchet! Hultafors forges the steel for Husqvarna on their axes.


I really like them ,all small ones though ,be nice to have a 4 -5 lb option also like the arvika .


----------



## Lowhog

Time to start looking at American made myself. I like the council and the Snow & Nealley. Who else makes axe in the US these days?


----------



## LondonNeil

That's the Husqvarna Hatchet that Steven Edholme (SkillCult) really, REALLY dislikes. He goes into all sorts of detail about hs thoghts. let us know how you get on with it as you use it.


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> I know, it's a shame... and because of that I'll soon have to receive a beautiful hand forged American axe.


 And what model did you order?


----------



## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> I really like them ,all small ones though ,be nice to have a 4 -5 lb option also like the arvika .



I have a penchant for small, light axes as well. They're more likely to get used around my property. I've had my eye on an Arvika for a while now, they are supposed to be available in the states soon! I'm pretty sure the Arvika is forged under the Hults Bruk branch, I'm not entirely sure HB forges all of the steel for the parent Hultafors group.



Lowhog said:


> Time to start looking at American made myself. I like the council and the Snow & Nealley. Who else makes axe in the US these days?



Council Tool is the only other I know of, and they're quality but not hand crafted heirlooms to pass down to your grandkids. Hoffman Blacksmithing is actually being transferred into a new facility he had built, for years be has done production smithing out of a veritable shack, it's like 800 sq ft or something.

Snow & Nealy got bought out overseas some years back, but were then purchased by an Amish family who are trying to bring work back to the USA. I saw a lot in WV stores, and while they looked better than what you'd find in a big chain LowesDepot, they also commanded quite a few more dollars. Some reviews I've read about use have been lackluster. For the same price I can get a Hults Bruk pound for pound with tried and true quality.



LondonNeil said:


> That's the Husqvarna Hatchet that Steven Edholme (SkillCult) really, REALLY dislikes. He goes into all sorts of detail about hs thoghts. let us know how you get on with it as you use it.



I thought it was the Husqvarna Forest Axe that he bought, modified, and still doesn't like?



Lowhog said:


> And what model did you order?



I got the 2.25 lb Camp Axe on a 24" stick


----------



## LondonNeil

I went to 'tube and checked, husqvarna 13" hatchet, he hates it.


----------



## Multifaceted

Gotcha, must've missed that one. I do know that he also has the Forest Axe and doesn't like it either for whatever reason. He just seems to like that Council 2.25 lb boys axe and typically that's what you see him using.


----------



## Lowhog

I have xlarge hands and don't mind the fat handles.


----------



## rarefish383

svk said:


> Yuppie type fellow" !
> Many years ago, when my wife and I were dating, or had just got married, a nice young lady called on Christmas eve and asked if I could bring her a cord of "good" firewood. I wasn't happy, but said yes, if I could just back up and dump it. She said no problem. I had a Ford F600 with a 12' bed and 6' sides. I get there and she says just dump it in the garage, my sides were at least 4' higher than her doors, so I get as close as I can and start throwing wood in. Then she comes out and says I brought too much wood, she wouldn't be able to get her car in the garage. I told her I was only about half way. Turned out the guy she had been getting wood from was selling her a face cord for the price of a full cord. So, I finally get all the wood thrown into the garage and she's about to hand me a wad of cash, and her "yuppie type fellow" neighbor comes over and tells her to send the wood back! He had just read in the Washington Post that seasoned firewood should be gray. Well, the pile of wood I took her load from was my Dad's personal stash. It had been stacked inside of our barn for two years and was dry as a bone. But, because it had never been in sunlight, had never grayed out. I grabbed up a hand full and went in to show her how I started a fire. I put the wood on the grates and tore one section of the Washington Post into long strips. I told her that the long strips get more air in them and burn faster and hotter than wadded up balls of paper. One section of the WP and she had a blazing fire. I walked out to leave with my wad of cash, and the "yuppie" neighbor is still flapping his trap at my wife. I stepped between them and told him to get his "F$$$king Whistle Dix Azz" back where he came from. My wife had never seen me get mad, or heard me cuss before, so she ran and jumped in the truck. As we were leaving she whispered, half scared to death, what's a "Whistle Dix"? I said "that's someone, when I hit them in the mouth, it's gonna force so much hot air down their throat, that it comes out the little hole in their dix and makes a whistling noise! She still tells the "Whistle Dix" story, 30 plus years later, Joe.


----------



## Philbert

Lowhog said:


> I have xlarge hands and don't mind the fat handles.


Plus, the rubber handles cover up the wood grain veneer I glued onto my Fiskars . . . . 



Philbert


----------



## Multifaceted

Philbert said:


> Plus, the rubber handles cover up the wood grain veneer I glued onto my Fiskars . . . .
> View attachment 618302
> 
> 
> Philbert



It's like a Finnish station wagon!


----------



## Mustang71

Kinda like when I painted my poulan pro black then recently spent hours removing all of the paint so I could get rid of the saw lol


----------



## Trx250r180

Pic to show difference between the stihl and husky axe sizes ,the large one is the HB Arvika 4.5 lb head for comparison .


----------



## Multifaceted

Nice looking pieces! How's the Arvika working out for you? I want one. Also, when are you going to finish that door you got sitting there on the horses?


----------



## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> Nice looking pieces! How's the Arvika working out for you? I want one. Also, when are you going to finish that door you got sitting there on the horses?


I really like the Arvika ,the 32 inch handle took a bit to adapt to was used to a 36 ,but it is called a racing axe head and the opening is bigger than a reg single bit so 32 is all i can find so far ,as for the door ,i keep getting sidetracked on other projects ,need to cut some wavey single pane glass for it still like the old houses had ,and stain it ,need to drill the knob openings and chisel in the hinges also still ,last time i tried cutting the wavey glass it did not split as good as clear flat glass ,lost a few pieces to breakage .


----------



## Lowhog

Husqvarna carpenters axe pictured?


----------



## Trx250r180

Lowhog said:


> Husqvarna carpenters axe pictured?


Bottom photo next to the stihl forestry axe,also the lh one in the 3rd photo ,the one to right in 3rd photo is husky forest axe 28 inch handle .


----------



## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> I really like the Arvika ,the 32 inch handle took a bit to adapt to was used to a 36 ,but it is called a racing axe head and the opening is bigger than a reg single bit so 32 is all i can find so far ,as for the door ,i keep getting sidetracked on other projects ,need to cut some wavey single pane glass for it still like the old houses had ,and stain it ,need to drill the knob openings and chisel in the hinges also still ,last time i tried cutting the wavey glass it did not split as good as clear flat glass ,lost a few pieces to breakage .



It certainly is a nice axe, I really admire that Tassy pattern. Eventually I'll get one, I'm a junkie after all... I bet that thing throws some big ol' chips when sharpened right!


----------



## Multifaceted

OK, so over the weekend I tested out the Kydex collar guard as best I could, got some Alianthus splits in irregular lengths and chain-bungied them together so to create an overstrike situation. The goal was to make kindling, so it was all I had to test... Had a good bit of hits on the collar and for the most part holds up. A better test will be done with some big fat rounds. I did notice that the collar slips down because the Kydex is so rigid even when tied tight, there's no friction, so I slid a small section of bicycle inner tube up onto the bottom and it holds it up there nicely.







After seeing @Lowhog splurge on some Swedish specimens... I got the bug and ordered a small Wetterlings backwoods axe (1.75 lb; 18.5" haft) since there will soon no longer be any left to buy at retail. I got it over the weekend, but here she is all oiled up and stropped:














I went into work today at 0600 so I could leave a little early, got home with about 20 minutes of daylight and limbed a small Catalpa that split at the top and fell over. Not a read hard wood ,but it grew crooked to get to the light. The little axe performed well and is smaller than anything else I own or use (non-hatchet), so it will have it's place for either light work or an auxilary camp axe.

Here it is compared to my Wetterlings Hudson Bay, and a recent Hults Bruk restoration I did:


----------



## Lowhog

Very nice guys! I hit a couple local Husqvarna dealers today looking for a all purpose 28" husqvarna axe and they don't keep any in stock. My chances of hand picking a Husqvarna axe is pretty slim. Ace hardware a Husqvarna dealer has made in Mexico council axes. Go Figure!


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> OK, so over the weekend I tested out the Kydex collar guard as best I could, got some Alianthus splits in irregular lengths and chain-bungied them together so to create an overstrike situation. The goal was to make kindling, so it was all I had to test... Had a good bit of hits on the collar and for the most part holds up. A better test will be done with some big fat rounds. I did notice that the collar slips down because the Kydex is so rigid even when tied tight, there's no friction, so I slid a small section of bicycle inner tube up onto the bottom and it holds it up there nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After seeing @Lowhog splurge on some Swedish specimens... I got the bug and ordered a small Wetterlings backwoods axe (1.75 lb; 18.5" haft) since there will soon no longer be any left to buy at retail. I got it over the weekend, but here she is all oiled up and stropped:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went into work today at 0600 so I could leave a little early, got home with about 20 minutes of daylight and limbed a small Catalpa that split at the top and fell over. Not a read hard wood ,but it grew crooked to get to the light. The little axe performed well and is smaller than anything else I own or use (non-hatchet), so it will have it's place for either light work or an auxilary camp axe.
> 
> Here it is compared to my Wetterlings Hudson Bay, and a recent Hults Bruk restoration I did:


Where did you find the HB for restoration? The small wetterlings pretty much like the gb small forest axe?


----------



## Philbert

Multifaceted said:


> I did notice that the collar slips down . . . so I slid a small section of bicycle inner tube up onto the bottom and it holds it up there nicely.


Looks nice. I thought that it was heat-shrink tubing.

Philbert


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Where did you find the HB for restoration? The small wetterlings pretty much like the gb small forest axe?



I established a contact in Sweden who shares the same interest in collecting, restoring, (using) and preserving forestry tools of yesteryear. It was a trade, a sort of quid pro quo. Old Swedish or Scandinavian axes aren't very common in my domestic channels, so I had to outsource.

The Wetterlings I'm showing in my post is more akin to the Gränsfors Bruk Small Forest Axe, yes - it is roughly the same in weight and length, but still smaller than the Scandinavian Forest Axe. In both the Gränsfors Scan and Small forest axes, the bits are ground thinner than the Wetterlings. The Wetterlings axes have more of an acute ogive arch edge geometry, like the shape of a bullet - thicker cheeks and with primary and secondary bevels that arc to the apex of the edge. I find that type of edge geometry more versatile; the GB is thin, hollow, and cuts deep. Highly effective for biting into soft hardwoods like birch or aspen, or softwood conifers which all grow in abundance in Scandinavia. The thin bit on the GB can still split, but is at somewhat of a disadvantage to a more ogive, wider geometry of the Wetterlings grind. Don't get me wrong, I like a nice keen Scandi grind, I put one on the above Hults Bruk restoration (it fit the bit profile) - but when it comes to a preference, the grind on the Wetterlings axes performs evenly across all types of uses.



Philbert said:


> Looks nice. I thought that it was heat-shrink tubing.
> 
> Philbert



I can kind of see that, but nope, it's just plain old bicycle inner-tubing. I use the same method for my paracord collar wraps on smaller axes like the Hudson Bays. The compression of the rubber holds the coils in place and keeps them from slipping or coming unwound (though I typically melt them and super glue them in place). I got the idea from my oldest and best friend, a bushcrafter and hunter. He said he got the idea from "that David Canterbury guy" who he didn't really seem to care much for, strangely...


----------



## svk

Lowhog said:


> Very nice guys! I hit a couple local Husqvarna dealers today looking for a all purpose 28" husqvarna axe and they don't keep any in stock. My chances of hand picking a Husqvarna axe is pretty slim. Ace hardware a Husqvarna dealer has made in Mexico council axes. Go Figure!


I will be up in NY at Bob's (spike60) shop in February and could grab one and bring it to MN in the spring if you can wait that long. I believe he stocks them.


----------



## Lowhog

svk said:


> I will be up in NY at Bob's (spike60) shop in February and could grab one and bring it to MN in the spring if you can wait that long. I believe he stocks them.


I'll keep that in mind for sure thanks for the offer.I have a few more husky dealers in the area that just might have a few in stock. I think I just need to hit the big towns like Furgus Falls or Brainerd. I see the wetterlings 118's on ebay for about $20 cheaper vs the gs small forest axe. I better pull the trigger on one before they are all gone.


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted Mostly pine, spruce, poplar on the place but I like the extra weight and fat cheeks on the Wetterlings.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Multifaceted Mostly pine, spruce, poplar on the place but I like the extra weight and fat cheeks on the Wetterlings.



Got ya, then your Gränsfors should be well suited for those types of woods, though most any axe would too. Around me it's mostly hardwoods. I agree, the fatter cheeks on the Wetterlings is nice, very atypical for European axes. I found an image online showing the difference between Hultafors, Gränsfors, and Wetterlings grind profiles:






I got my Wetterlings Backcountry Axe, which I believe if not mistaken the #118 for $118 on Wiseman Trading:

http://wisementrading.com/wood-working/wetterlings/hunting-axe-18-38-inch-wetterlings/


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## Lowhog

I don't spend a red cent on tobacco or booze anymore so what the heck!!


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> Got ya, then your Gränsfors should be well suited for those types of woods, though most any axe would too. Around me it's mostly hardwoods. I agree, the fatter cheeks on the Wetterlings is nice, very atypical for European axes. I found an image online showing the difference between Hultafors, Gränsfors, and Wetterlings grind profiles:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got my Wetterlings Backcountry Axe, which I believe if not mistaken the #118 for $118 on Wiseman Trading:
> 
> http://wisementrading.com/wood-working/wetterlings/hunting-axe-18-38-inch-wetterlings/


Free shipping?


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## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Free shipping?



Yep, if you choose 'Best Way Shipping'. I placed my order the night of the 5th, received it that Saturday the 9th. From Alabama to Pennsylvania. I was only charged $119 on both my receipt from them and PayPal.


----------



## svk

Lowhog said:


> I don't spend a red cent on tobacco or booze anymore so what the heck!!View attachment 618650


Looks like you could shave with those!


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## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Looks like you could shave with those!



I love a sharp axe, and have the patchy forearms to prove it.


----------



## Lowhog

svk said:


> Looks like you could shave with those!


The Gransfors and Wetterlings you can from the factory. The husqvarna needs a little work!


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> Yep, if you choose 'Best Way Shipping'. I placed my order the night of the 5th, received it that Saturday the 9th. From Alabama to Pennsylvania. I was only charged $119 on both my receipt from them and PayPal.


Ordered the 118 today.


----------



## Multifaceted

This may be a review thread; the actual review to follow... but I've been waiting for this axe for a long time now. Every time it became available, I must've been preoccupied with something else. However, the time has finally come. Presenting, the 2 kg/4.4 lb Basque felling axe:







This is a unique axe in many ways, chiefly due to the fact that it is hung like a mattocks with a friction fit - there is no wedge. Also, there is no poll, and haft is much shorter than I'm used to for an axe of this weight (4.4 lb / 2 kg). Just look at those cheeks!






The handle is short, and thin towards the bottom with little palm swell. The overall length is about 26":






Handle is made from Beech, and arrived with very acceptable grain orientation:






Fit and finish is nice, a little rough around the wood fit, and the bottom of the steel has some harsh grind marks that contrast from the fine factory polish, probably from production fitting, but otherwise it looks nice. It's a tool, not a sports car - I intend to abuse this.






Here it is after removing the labels, sanding the wood with 120 grit paper, then adding a light coat of BLO - and cleaning off the head from oil and adhesive:






Looking forward to throwing this into some wood - will report back - have a handful of axes to review in the field. Thanks for looking!


----------



## svk

Wow that is one sleek tool.


----------



## hseII

Multifaceted said:


> This may be a review thread; the actual review to follow... but I've been waiting for this axe for a long time now. Every time it became available, I must've been preoccupied with something else. However, the time has finally come. Presenting, the 2 kg/4.4 lb Basque felling axe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a unique axe in many ways, chiefly due to the fact that it is hung like a mattocks with a friction fit - there is no wedge. Also, there is no poll, and haft is much shorter than I'm used to for an axe of this weight (4.4 lb / 2 kg). Just look at those cheeks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle is short, and thin towards the bottom with little palm swell. The overall length is about 26":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handle is made from Beech, and arrived with very acceptable grain orientation:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit and finish is nice, a little rough around the wood fit, and the bottom of the steel has some harsh grind marks that contrast from the fine factory polish, probably from production fitting, but otherwise it looks nice. It's a tool, not a sports car - I intend to abuse this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is after removing the labels, sanding the wood with 120 grit paper, then adding a light coat of BLO - and cleaning off the head from oil and adhesive:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to throwing this into some wood - will report back - have a handful of axes to review in the field. Thanks for looking!



Bring It.


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## Multifaceted

hseII said:


> Bring It.



I'm chomping at the bit... no daylight during the work week, only weekends, plus the holidays are here...


----------



## svk

Headlamp!


----------



## svk

How does that hold in place with the slip fit? Is there a pin or something?


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## LondonNeil

Slipped on from the bottom, handle head expanding cone shape, like a pickaxe handle I guess?


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## Lowhog

See if I can give the Husqvarna a mirror finish like the others.


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## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Headlamp!



I suppose, but I'd rather do it in the light of day so I can really see what I'm doing.



svk said:


> How does that hold in place with the slip fit? Is there a pin or something?



Friction fit, like a mattocks or pick axe. No pin, and it's on there pretty good. Tried to pull it off but gave up.



LondonNeil said:


> Slipped on from the bottom, handle head expanding cone shape, like a pickaxe handle I guess?



You are correct, good sir.


----------



## Lowhog

Still a few light factory grinding marks on the Husqvarna (top), but its looking much better. It was nothing but heavy grind marks when I received it.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Still a few light factory grinding marks on the Husqvarna (top), but its looking much better. It was nothing but heavy grind marks when I received it.View attachment 618849



Nice! Looks good. I hone up to 1000 grit stones then buff with with a cloth polishing wheel and compound on my bench grinder to strop and polish to a mirror finish.


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Nice! Looks good. I hone up to 1000 grit stones then buff with with a cloth polishing wheel and compound on my bench grinder to strop and polish to a mirror finish.




And I thought I was doing good with 320 grit lol


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> And I thought I was doing good with 320 grit lol



That's still plenty good. Remember, I'm also a hobbyist, so sharpening, like restorations provide me solace and mental stimulation.

For a new or re-worked edge it's: Bastard Mill File, 280, 400, 600, 1000 grit stones, then strop.


----------



## svk

Back during the Fiskars hate days @MechanicMatt told one of them he was going to sprop his Fiskars prior to their splitting contest


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Back during the Fiskars hate days @MechanicMatt told one of them he was going to sprop his Fiskars prior to their splitting contest



What happened next?


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> What happened next?


There was a lot of smack talking. That was prior to the gtg where the Leveraxe threw the split into CTY's shin


----------



## Lowhog

Found wetterlings #124 American forest axes in Spain 135 euro plus shipping.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Found wetterlings #124 American forest axes in Spain 135 euro plus shipping.



Got a link to that?


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> Got a link to that?


 Sent you a pm on the outfit I have no idea on posting a link no computers or school bus when I was a kid. I think I found the last new 124 in the US of A in Tenn.They gave me a discount plus free shipping I paid with paypal on the checkout. The place in spain also takes paypal.


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## Lowhog

Lucky me they had the 124 listed as a Wetterlings Appalachian forest axe. Thats how I found it with google search.


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## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Sent you a pm on the outfit I have no idea on posting a link no computers or school bus when I was a kid. I think I found the last new 124 in the US of A in Tenn.They gave me a discount plus free shipping I paid with paypal on the checkout. The place in spain also takes paypal.



I did get that, thanks. Was more interested in the vendor. I looked through their inventory, but couldn't find it; however they have some other interesting offerings. 



Lowhog said:


> Lucky me they had the 124 listed as a Wetterlings Appalachian forest axe. Thats how I found it with google search.



I have seen those around from time to time before they closed the doors. I already have a good axe in that length/weight - but it sure looks nice - enjoy!


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## Lowhog

The 124 is on page two.


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## Lowhog

THE brown truck delivered a Wetterlings 118 outdoor axe today. It put a smile on my stocking.


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## svk

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/christmas-giving-2017.315876/

Just a heads up if you have any splitting/chopping tools that may have fallen out of your favorites list, perhaps someone else may want them for the cost of shipping...


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## Lowhog

Stjudes Childrens research hospital monthly. With 9 Grand Kids all I care about is kids being cancer free.


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## flatbroke

Id like to buy a tool to split 2 foot diameter and bigger rounds (green Oak) in to smaller manageable pieces. I have a craftsman maul now and the thing just bounces out. Ive tried using a pointed wedge and that thing bounces. I would prefer to not noodle the damn rounds as it takes a bunch of time, fuel. I am corn fuzed as to getting a maul or a fiskars 27? I had a 27, 25, and 14 inch hatchet (kindling ) loaded in my online Baileys cart but stopped to ask you folks. am I barking on track or chasing trash?


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## Multifaceted

Ever tried splitting when it's below freezing? I don't have as much experience as a lot of others on here, but I do find that some oak around my way splits easier when it's dried for a few months, especially if any remaining moisture has a chance to freeze inside the fibers. Northern Red Oak and Black Oak are good candidates around here, White Oak species seems to be a bit more difficult. I've heard before that splitting oak is easiest when green, but I don't know, sure doesn't seem that way... perhaps I am doing it wrong.

I also split rounds that big by hand. Occasionally, I'll have to noodle a piece here or there if it's particularly ornery, but if it's mostly straight grained and wide, a nice brisk, chilly morning with a 4+ pound splitter always seems to help them pop open. I use 4.5 lb splitters for this (all of my heavy axes are about that weight), so either the X27 or X25 would be more than enough for what you're trying to do. 

IMHO, I believe that splitting wood effectively has more to do with technique, physics, and environmental conditions.


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## Philbert

flatbroke said:


> Id like to buy a tool to split 2 foot diameter and bigger rounds (green Oak) in to smaller manageable pieces.



I ground sharper edges on my wedges to help them penetrate without bouncing out. I would use 2 or 3 on a large diameter round. 

Another approach is to split pieces off the edges and work your way in, rather than splitting down the middle. 



Multifaceted said:


> I believe that splitting wood effectively has more to do with technique, physics, and environmental conditions.



+1

Philbert


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## LondonNeil

+2


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## Mustang71

I typically use my wedge for larger rounds but I don't split green stuff because I have no reason to. I have a beater axe that I use when the wedge keeps popping. The axe usually sticks in the wood then hit it with the sledge a few times and now you have a starting point for the wedge. Dry wood gets all those cracks in it and is usually easy to split with a wedge.


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## Lowhog

In the past for bur and red oak I used splitters with 6# heads and up.


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## flatbroke

Mustang71 said:


> I typically use my wedge for larger rounds but I don't split green stuff because I have no reason to. I have a beater axe that I use when the wedge keeps popping. The axe usually sticks in the wood then hit it with the sledge a few times and now you have a starting point for the wedge. Dry wood gets all those cracks in it and is usually easy to split with a wedge.


 I don't usually split the rounds either but I can't lift the rounds either. Trying to speed up the process.


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## LondonNeil

Up to 2' is ok, depends on the wood though. Often splitting green is best but if it's troublesome, set it aside and try as it starts to dry and crack. If the X27 won't get it, try turning the round over, often the bottom of the tree is the best side to strike. Put knots at through bottom and strike the furthest side. If the X27 still fails, 8lb maul gets a lot. Personally I hate wedges but they are appropriate for big big rounds, 3'+.


----------



## GVS

flatbroke said:


> Id like to buy a tool to split 2 foot diameter and bigger rounds (green Oak) in to smaller manageable pieces. I have a craftsman maul now and the thing just bounces out. Ive tried using a pointed wedge and that thing bounces. I would prefer to not noodle the damn rounds as it takes a bunch of time, fuel. I am corn fuzed as to getting a maul or a fiskars 27? I had a 27, 25, and 14 inch hatchet (kindling ) loaded in my online Baileys cart but stopped to ask you folks. am I barking on track or chasing trash?


Rather then noodling all the way try noodling a 1/2" deep slot across the upper surface,a place to set and start the wedge.Keeps the wedge from falling over when your maul swing is halfway down.


----------



## flatbroke

GVS said:


> Rather then noodling all the way try noodling a 1/2" deep slot across the upper surface,a place to set and start the wedge.Keeps the wedge from falling over when your maul swing is halfway down.


freaking genius. My parents had 1 smart kid and that was my sister. I will try that next time. 

I ordered a fiskars x27 and 8pound maul and their hatchet. Hope they live up the the hype.


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## Mustang71

The x27 works great in the right wood. Wedges are slow and require a lot of energy but they work. Maybe try a few types of wedges too. I have one of those wood grenade ones and it works great if it doesn't pop out. That's y sometimes the beater axe is a great wedge. It's skinny and doesnt pop out. Swing it into the wood and hammer it through with the sledge.


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## Philbert

Big a** bandsaw with a sliding table is probably the best. Seen whole cows cut in half in the packing plants with those. I don't expect anyone to buy one for firewood, but it some packing house near you goes out of business and has an auction . . . . 

Philbert


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## LondonNeil

Each has their own favourites, myself I hate my wood grenade the most!


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## woodsrider

Lowhog said:


> THE brown truck delivered a Wetterlings 118 outdoor axe today. It put a smile on my stocking.



Beautiful handle on the Wetterlings....I like the grain pattern.


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## Mustang71

LondonNeil said:


> Each has their own favourites, myself I hate my wood grenade the most!



I don't mind it. It doesn't give you a nice clean split but it does break it into chunks and usually that last hit when the wood explodes that wedge is like a bullet through the wood. I have had it fully burried in a round though without it splitting and that's a tricky situation.


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## LondonNeil

Yes, I've nailed rounds to my block with it. What I hate is the zero control of a split direction, and mainly that it doesn't actually have much splitting oomph.


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## Mustang71

I'm just happy it's split lol it's like hammering a nail into a 2x4 on the 2 side it splits because you are pounding a large diameter object into a non existent space. I like axe splitting or maul splitting so whatever shape or size I need to get a round into to split I'm happy. Throw a traditional wedge into my splitting tools and I'll be picking and choosing instead of getting work done.


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## Lowhog

If the 8 pounder doesn't do the job go hydraulic with a honda motor.


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## Lowhog

Last of the nos Wetterlings Appalachian forest axe model w123 with a 3 pound head 31.5" haft. Razor sharp from the factory plus the wood orientation is excellent.


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## Multifaceted

Nice looking axe, @Lowhog - I thought about getting one a while back, probably still could, but as much as I love Swedish axes, I love restoring the old ones more. Are you going to see a doctor about this sudden onset of the Swedish axe bug? ha ha ha

I was hoping to get out this weekend to test about four of my most recently acquired and restored axes, but it has been raining for most the whole day. And, alas, starting tomorrow my wife and I will be going on the annual traveling family holiday circus until next Tues, so it'll have to wait, again...


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## Lowhog

Thats it on spending the big $ for now the Wife will cut off the family jewels if I keep this up. In the future it wll be flea market, garage sale finds only.


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## Multifaceted

Interesting that they use a metal stepped wedge in addition to the wood wedge on the heavier Appalachian Forest Axe. I thought all Wetterlings axes were wood fit.


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## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> Interesting that they use a metal stepped wedge in addition to the wood wedge on the heavier Appalachian Forest Axe. I thought all Wetterlings axes were wood fit.


 I read somewhere all large chopping Wetterlings had the metal wedge.


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## Multifaceted

You're probably right, that actually makes pretty good sense. On my restorations I've been trying to do without them because they always seem to split the end grain. The heaviest I've hung sans stepped wedge is a 3.75 lb Fulton single bit, and so far it's not budged. Still haven't given it the business, so time will tell. I'll saturate the end grain of of the eye with BLO until it stops taking it up and the wood visibly swells. I've got a handfull of the circular/conical "safety" wedges to use if in a pinch, they seem less like to walk on you when driving them in and split the grain. Nothing grinds my gears more than spending the time getting a perfect fit, having the wood wedge fill the gaps, and then splitting the end grain while driving in a metal stepped wedge... total buzzkill.


----------



## Philbert

You guys got me feeling bad about all of the old, rusty axes I have passed by at garage sales. Great; another thing to accumulate!

Philbert


----------



## dancan

Philbert, I try to limit my spending on axes to 10$ an axe head , it has to be special for me to spend more .
Most of the time handles end up costing me more than the axe .
With that in mind it keeps it a pretty cheap hobby. 
Buying heads from the Bay will make it a expensive hobby in no time.


----------



## Multifaceted

dancan said:


> Philbert, I try to limit my spending on axes to 10$ an axe head , it has to be special for me to spend more .
> Most of the time handles end up costing me more than the axe .
> With that in mind it keeps it a pretty cheap hobby.
> Buying heads from the Bay will make it a expensive hobby in no time.



I agree, the handles tend to be a it more than what I'll spend on the steel. I also like to have sheaths on mine because I keep them all shaving sharp. As soon as I can find where I can get 5/4 boards of hickory, I'm going to start making my own. I have plans to do some leather-working for the sheaths as well, just don't have the necessary tools yet, chiefly a punch and rivet setter.



Philbert said:


> You guys got me feeling bad about all of the old, rusty axes I have passed by at garage sales. Great; another thing to accumulate!
> 
> Philbert



Don't feel bad, get motivated! The ones you don't care much for you can give as awesome gifts, or sell them to fund the hobby or buy better tools. Join us over in the Axe Restoration Thread and start to amass a collection of restored axes... and maybe a purchased few... they're addictive.


----------



## Lowhog

Surprised Wetterlings didn't use the metal wedge in the Hudson Bay I hear they have a tendency to loosen up.


----------



## Lowhog

This winter a axe rack is on my to do list.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Surprised Wetterlings didn't use the metal wedge in the Hudson Bay I hear they have a tendency to loosen up.



If it's hung properly, there's no need, it's only 2.5 lb. Though the biggest weakness of the HB/Trade Axe patterns is the lack of metal to wood contact with the short head. This is where Swedish and other like axes make up for that with the lugs on the sides, it provides for more surface contact. I'll bet you dollars to doughnuts that Wetterlings HB loose heads are from being constantly stored indoors where it is dry and the wood shrinks. On any axe I buy or restore, I'll saturate the end grain of the eye with BLO until the wood no longer drinks it up and swells the wood. I beat the crap out of my Wetterlings Hudson Bay and it is still on there tight, no signs of ever coming loose. At least not this one...



Lowhog said:


> This winter a axe rack is on my to do list.



I made that out of a quartz slab rack, we buy them at work by the bundle. I work in the granite fabrication industry, so I have unlimited access to pallets and other decent scrap wood for projects. I just trimmed the ends of the slab rack to the length I wanted and connected them with scrap pieces of plywood, then traversed the top with a piece 1x6 pine that I cut 4" holes with a holesaw for the axe handles to pass through. I added some hooks below to hang the shorter handled ones. Probably took me 30 minutes. A hack job, but it cost me nothing and it serves its purpose.


----------



## Lowhog

Sir I will take your advise and do the blo soak on all of them. Merry Christmas to all on this forum and thread.


----------



## Philbert

'BLO' = boiled linseed oil?

Philbert


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Sir I will take your advise and do the blo soak on all of them. Merry Christmas to all on this forum and thread.



You can soak it, but that gets messy and is wasteful. I like to do three coats of BLO. Apply to wood being generous on the end grain, allow to sit for 20 or so minutes, then wipe off excess and let dry 24 hrs. Repeat this three more times, the third time let dry for 48 hrs. During this process I like to dab some BLO on the end grain of the eye, sometimes 5,6, 7 times. The end grain will quickly absorb the oil so it won't sit on top and get all sticky. Once it does start do that, and just sit atop, then you know it's done drinking it up. The main thing with BLO is if you coat it too thick and let dry, it will get gummy on you because being a drying oil it causes polymerization and can get sticky forming a thick layer of dried oil. 

Remember, thin coats, let set 20 minutes, then wipe off excess and let dry. A little extra fine steel wool is your friend for some unwanted buildup in between coats. I'll apply a maintenance coat every month or so until the wood takes up a deep, rich color, then only once per year is required. BLO is the bees knees.



Philbert said:


> 'BLO' = boiled linseed oil?
> 
> Philbert



Correct, Boiled Linseed Oil - a tried and true drying oil.


----------



## Rudedog

LondonNeil said:


> Each has their own favourites, myself I hate my wood grenade the most!


The two wood grenades I used in the past were lousy steel. One shatterred and the other broke about 3/4 of an inch from the point. I prefer the two *Estwing E-5 Sure Split Wedges.*

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDMDKNP/ref=twister_B01M6Y4U1J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Mustang71

If i were to buy another wedge the estwing would be the one.


----------



## LondonNeil

Roughneck twist wedges are my preferred, but still hate them


----------



## Multifaceted

Had a little time today before we had to load the car up and leave for stop #1 on the traveling holiday family circus. Found another slightly larger pesky and twisted Catalpa that was showing signs of rot. Maybe 35' tall, about 10" in diameter at it's base. Decided to take it down with my recently restored Hults Bruk 2.25 lb. Catalpa is a hardwood, though not the hardest wood, but it'll do. It performed very well, threw some big chips during the notch and back cut. The weight and length (28" handle) is well suited for swinging in the tangle and slope of the hill. Once it came down the thin keen edge made short work of limbing. After about 20 minutes I realized that I'd broken a sweat and we needed to leave soon, so didn't get to buck the little log, just threw the limbs and branches into a pile. Overall, pretty darn happy with this little axe. 

Merry Christmas to all!


----------



## svk

Great pics!


----------



## Lowhog

Nice axe!


----------



## Lowhog

Wondering if I order the axes from Spain if I'll have any import tax or problems with axes with customs.


----------



## svk

Lowhog said:


> Wondering if I order the axes from Spain if I'll have any import tax or problems with axes with customs.


Should fall under a de minimus value? I think if you tried to import 10, you might have an issue.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog, I recently bought that Basque axe from a Finnish outfit and there were not any import taxes or issues with customs. svk is right, if you were importing several or more then I'm sure you'd pay an import tax.


----------



## rarefish383

flatbroke said:


> Id like to buy a tool to split 2 foot diameter and bigger rounds (green Oak) in to smaller manageable pieces. I have a craftsman maul now and the thing just bounces out. Ive tried using a pointed wedge and that thing bounces. I would prefer to not noodle the damn rounds as it takes a bunch of time, fuel. I am corn fuzed as to getting a maul or a fiskars 27? I had a 27, 25, and 14 inch hatchet (kindling ) loaded in my online Baileys cart but stopped to ask you folks. am I barking on track or chasing trash?


This is getting kind of old and I didn't read all of the reply's. So if I repeat something, sorry. I've found that when a maul or wedge bounce on Oak you are striking it in the middle of the round. When using a wedge, I don't use them anymore, strike the round with an ax an inch or so from the edge, just to make a mark in it. Rub some dirt in the crack for traction, and then tap your wedge in easy till it grabs. On the Red, White, and Chestnut Oak I have, before I got a Fiskers, I used a box store 4 pound ax and started on the outside of the round, and cut a 3" slab off the side. Just walk around the block cutting off thin slabs. After you get all of the sap wood off the rest should split pretty easy. The sap wood on the outside is the tuffest so you need to break through it first. Hope this helps, Joe.


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## flatbroke

ive been cutting a bar deep face cut and letting the 8pound fiskars pop em like a young lady on prom night.


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## Multifaceted

This is sort of a crosspost from another thread I created, but I do have an axe to review that I used, quite extensively today. My Juaregi Basque 2.0 Kg (4.4 lb) Felling axe on a 60cm (~25") haft. This is much shorter than what I'm used to, for felling or cutting the notch I would have preferred something a little longer.










For bucking, I found the length to be pretty good. It was strange first, but it quickly grew on me. The really wide cheeks throw some big o'l chips, so on a log this side, about 8-10 wacks will open a notch on one side. The edge geometry is so well and the weight right that the short handle allows me to put some power behind my strikes without having to lift the axe over my head to swing. The bottom of the haft is narrow and thin, because the head is inserted through the bottom and wedged in the conical top, like a mattocks, so it's a little odd and will take some getting used to. I don't like really big, knobby palm swells, but it'd be nice to have something a little more than this. I may make my own handle for it that makes it a bit longer and with more of a palm swell. This handle is Beech.






For splitting, it can be a little sticky because the edge starts out thin before it fattens up, but with a robust swing with a whip of the wrist pops the wood right open. This was about 6-8" in diameter from top to base, so I have yet to try on anything wider in diameter. So far, I'm impressed.






All in all, I really like this axe and see myself going to it as I continue to process trees axe-only in the coming weeks.


----------



## flatbroke

Getting after it today. Pretty wore out at this point


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> This is sort of a crosspost from another thread I created, but I do have an axe to review that I used, quite extensively today. My Juaregi Basque 2.0 Kg (4.4 lb) Felling axe on a 60cm (~25") haft. This is much shorter than what I'm used to, for felling or cutting the notch I would have preferred something a little longer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For bucking, I found the length to be pretty good. It was strange first, but it quickly grew on me. The really wide cheeks throw some big o'l chips, so on a log this side, about 8-10 wacks will open a notch on one side. The edge geometry is so well and the weight right that the short handle allows me to put some power behind my strikes without having to lift the axe over my head to swing. The bottom of the haft is narrow and thin, because the head is inserted through the bottom and wedged in the conical top, like a mattocks, so it's a little odd and will take some getting used to. I don't like really big, knobby palm swells, but it'd be nice to have something a little more than this. I may make my own handle for it that makes it a bit longer and with more of a palm swell. This handle is Beech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For splitting, it can be a little sticky because the edge starts out thin before it fattens up, but with a robust swing with a whip of the wrist pops the wood right open. This was about 6-8" in diameter from top to base, so I have yet to try on anything wider in diameter. So far, I'm impressed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All in all, I really like this axe and see myself going to it as I continue to process trees axe-only in the coming weeks.


Chopping Ash?


----------



## Lowhog

flatbroke said:


> Getting after it today. Pretty wore out at this point View attachment 622531


Seen a video a fellow was standing his round in the center of a old tire while spliting. It kept the pieces from falling over when striking.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Chopping Ash?



Yeah, pretty sure it's Ash, at first I thought it was Green Ash but now I think it's White. The wood grain sure looks like it. It's dead and had no leaves over the summer, so we marked along with other to be dropped.


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## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> Yeah, pretty sure it's Ash, at first I thought it was Green Ash but now I think it's White. The wood grain sure looks like it. It's dead and had no leaves over the summer, so we marked along with other to be dropped.


One of my favorite firewood, it's light and dries fast.


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## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Seen a video a fellow was standing his round in the center of a old tire while spliting. It kept the pieces from falling over when striking.



I've seen those, I sometimes use the old chain bungee wrap which kind of does the same thing - keep 'em together. Lately, anything that is less than 20" I'll just split it on the ground with a "golf swing". Less handling. I still like to use a block, but I'm kind of transitioning out of that after my last two big splitting sessions


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## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> One o
> 
> One of my favorite firewood, it light and dries fast.



Same here, probably right behind Northern Red Oak. It does dry fast, and splits easily too. I could probably burn it right now if I needed to.


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## Lowhog

Golf swing! You'll be presidential material in no time!


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## Multifaceted

Ha! My actual golf game is non existent, but I can hire good speech writers....


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## Trx250r180

Lost this thread also ,update on the arvika ,it is my go to now ,the 32 inch handle i have adapted too and like the feel of it now that i have used it more ,real good swing control with it .


----------



## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> Lost this thread also ,update on the arvika ,it is my go to now ,the 32 inch handle i have adapted too and like the feel of it now that i have used it more ,real good swing control with it .



Did you ever put your own grind on it? Aren't those set from the factory to be customized by the end user?


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## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> Did you ever put your own grind on it? Aren't those set from the factory to be customized by the end user?


It was fairly sharp new ,it does say sharpen before use on it ,i need a sharpening puck ,all i have to sharpen is a file and a small belt sander for sharpening knives ,it will pop a knot off in a swing or 2 right now so it chops good ,i think it would work good in the firewood challenge for 1 axe to do it all ,chop and split .I have been putting all my rounds on top of another log so have not hit the dirt with the edge yet .I did put a chip in the handle ,not real bad but can see a lighter color where it chipped .


----------



## rarefish383

I just came running in from the wood pile. The wind is blowing so hard you can hardly stand up. I'm taking a fine file and a stone down in the basement, I might not come out till March. If I can find my Plumb double that is not hung, I'll start on that. Otherwise I'm gonna take the American Beauty down and see if I can get it shaving sharp, and kill a couple more Gum trees with it, Joe


----------



## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> It was fairly sharp new ,it does say sharpen before use on it ,i need a sharpening puck ,all i have to sharpen is a file and a small belt sander for sharpening knives ,it will pop a knot off in a swing or 2 right now so it chops good ,i think it would work good in the firewood challenge for 1 axe to do it all ,chop and split .I have been putting all my rounds on top of another log so have not hit the dirt with the edge yet .I did put a chip in the handle ,not real bad but can see a lighter color where it chipped .



Just so you know, you don't have to use just one axe, it just has to to an axe or anything that resembles an axe. I plan to use several, and have already used two.

I got ya, I was more talking about grind profile. In timber sports different grinds cut deeper or throw bigger chips depending on how the user chops and swings. Profiles are like hollow, rolled , half banana/full banana, etc.









rarefish383 said:


> I just came running in from the wood pile. The wind is blowing so hard you can hardly stand up. I'm taking a fine file and a stone down in the basement, I might not come out till March. If I can find my Plumb double that is not hung, I'll start on that. Otherwise I'm gonna take the American Beauty down and see if I can get it shaving sharp, and kill a couple more Gum trees with it, Joe



You're not kidding, I'm out making kindling from hardwood limbs and had to come in for a wee dram of Scotch and warm up by the stove for a minute to write this. My legs went numb...

Last night I touched up my Basque and Hults Bruk axes from the other day, one had a chip in the toe, the other might have ate some dirt and snow.


----------



## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> Just so you know, you don't have to use just one axe, it just has to to an axe or anything that resembles an axe. I plan to use several, and have already used two.
> 
> I got ya, I was more talking about grind profile. In timber sports different grinds cut deeper or throw bigger chips depending on how the user chops and swings. Profiles are like hollow, rolled , half banana/full banana, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're not kidding, I'm out making kindling from hardwood limbs and had to come in for a wee dram of Scotch and warm up by the stove for a minute to write this. My legs went numb...
> 
> Last night I touched up my Basque and Hults Bruk axes from the other day, one had a chip in the toe, the other might have ate some dirt and snow.


The chisel one looks like how i sharpen . I split mostly with it so do not want too thin a face ,my husky carpenter axe has a thin face on it .There is some kind of clear coat on the arvika head ,it is coming off from use ,must be for storage to prevent rust maybe .


----------



## hseII

Trx250r180 said:


> The chisel one looks like how i sharpen . I split mostly with it so do not want too thin a face ,my husky carpenter axe has a thin face on it .There is some kind of clear coat on the arvika head ,it is coming off from use ,must be for storage to prevent rust maybe .



So,

You gonna keep it.


----------



## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> The chisel one looks like how i sharpen . I split mostly with it so do not want too thin a face ,my husky carpenter axe has a thin face on it .There is some kind of clear coat on the arvika head ,it is coming off from use ,must be for storage to prevent rust maybe .



Acetone will take that off in a jiffy, then you can put a thin coat of BLO over it or oil it regularly. My Council Tool FSS Pulaski came with the a similar laquer on the bit, it was the first thing to come off.


----------



## Trx250r180

hseII said:


> So,
> 
> You gonna keep it.


Yes sir ,Billy did a new vid a day or 2 ago ,used the vintage arvika a bit to chop on trees ,about 12-13 min in arvika got some footage .


----------



## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> Yes sir ,Billy did a new vid a day or 2 ago ,used the vintage arvika a bit to chop on trees ,about 12-13 min in arvika got some footage .



Link to video?


----------



## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> Link to video?




He does a lot of axe hanging videos ,my first 2 came out fairly good using his advise .Posted in the other axe thread .


----------



## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> He does a lot of axe hanging videos ,my first 2 came out fairly good using his advise .Posted in the other axe thread .




Oh yeah, good ol' Buckin'. I find him entertaining to just watch, dude is all over the place! He drops a good bit of useful knowledge here and there but doesn't come off like a know it all, a pretty humble guy. You know he charges $150-250 USD for his Buckin' Specials? I like to think I do some pretty darn good work on my restorations but I don't charge nearly as much, wholly cow!

Can't knock him though, if he's making a buck doing that with his subscriber base then more power to him, at least he didn't (or hasn't) ended up the paid shill Wranglerstar turned into...


----------



## LondonNeil

yet


----------



## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> Oh yeah, good ol' Buckin'. I find him entertaining to just watch, dude is all over the place! He drops a good bit of useful knowledge here and there but doesn't come off like a know it all, a pretty humble guy. You know he charges $150-250 USD for his Buckin' Specials? I like to think I do some pretty darn good work on my restorations but I don't charge nearly as much, wholly cow!
> 
> Can't knock him though, if he's making a buck doing that with his subscriber base then more power to him, at least he didn't (or hasn't) ended up the paid shill Wranglerstar turned into...


He told me he lives just north of here ,maybe an hour drive once off the ferry from us to canada .


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Oh yeah, good ol' Buckin'. I find him entertaining to just watch, dude is all over the place! He drops a good bit of useful knowledge here and there but doesn't come off like a know it all, a pretty humble guy. You know he charges $150-250 USD for his Buckin' Specials? I like to think I do some pretty darn good work on my restorations but I don't charge nearly as much, wholly cow!
> 
> Can't knock him though, if he's making a buck doing that with his subscriber base then more power to him, at least he didn't (or hasn't) ended up the paid shill Wranglerstar turned into...


I like that Billy is a real guy with lots of real life experience who also does videos and sells axes on the side. 

Wranglerstar knew almost nothing in his early videos and now knows just enough to be dangerous.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> I like that Billy is a real guy with lots of real life experience who also does videos and sells axes on the side.
> 
> Wranglerstar knew almost nothing in his early videos and now knows just enough to be dangerous.



I used to be a fan of Wranglerstar, I still kind of have a soft spot for his videos in the earlier days, it reminds me of when I got the axe bug as a budding enthusiast. Cody has become very successful selling himself as a homesteader and woodsman. It worked, so hey... A novice such as myself can watch some of his content, even today--at his earlier stuff and think, "yeah, that's not right..." ... or should I say *proper*, as he would put it. Same goes for Dave Canterbury, the guy is a costume. Sure, he might go camping, hunting, the occasional backwoods outfit here and there, but his content that he sells as true knowledge is just halfa$$ed. People still watch his videos, and buy his books, so I guess he must be doing something right...


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> I used to be a fan of Wranglerstar, I still kind of have a soft spot for his videos in the earlier days, it reminds me of when I got the axe bug as a budding enthusiast. Cody has become very successful selling himself as a homesteader and woodsman. It worked, so hey... A novice such as myself can watch some of his content, even today--at his earlier stuff and think, "yeah, that's not right..." ... or should I say *proper*, as he would put it. Same goes for Dave Canterbury, the guy is a costume. Sure, he might go camping, hunting, the occasional backwoods outfit here and there, but his content that he sells as true knowledge is just halfa$$ed. People still watch his videos, and buy his books, so I guess he must be doing something right...


Yeah I agree. Can't begrudge him for being successful but it just goes to show that just about anyone can be an internet sensation lol.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Yeah I agree. Can't begrudge him for being successful but it just goes to show that just about anyone can be an internet sensation lol.



Such is the double edged sword of the internet academy.... useful in that there is limitless knowledge accessible almost immediately; harmful in that bad information can be passed off as quality, thus aiding and abetting bad decisions from the ignorant viewer/reader.


----------



## abbott295

You can find practically anything on the internet, ... and a lot of impractical stuff too.


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Such is the double edged sword of the internet academy.... useful in that there is limitless knowledge accessible almost immediately; harmful in that bad information can be passed off as quality, thus aiding and abetting bad decisions from the ignorant viewer/reader.


Spot on. 

The ironic thing is that Billy Ray has 10,000 followers and Wranglerstar has nearly a million. Between Billy Ray and also his visits to Walker's saw shop you are getting irreplaceable info versus some dude puking product.


----------



## Lowhog

My first ever Pickaroon purchased at L&M fleet supply for $24.99. Its made by JH Contracting from 100% USA materials in northeast Minnesota. 36" hickory handle. You can see the grain orientation on the end under the non-slip gooobly guck.


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## Multifaceted

Found a Dixie retailer in the Old Dominion that stocked these and shipped for free! Always wanted one, came with a free personal water filter and axe/hatchet belt loop; but didn't come with a sheathed of its own... my only gripe, but otherwise it's Bada$$. Hults Bruk — Arvika!


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> Found a Dixie retailer in the Old Dominion that stocked these and shipped for free! Always wanted one, came with a free personal water filter and axe/hatchet belt loop; but didn't come with a sheathed of its own... my only gripe, but otherwise it's Bada$$. Hults Bruk — Arvika!


practice racing axe?


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> practice racing axe?



Sort of, I really just like a good axe and these Tassie patterns are just so cool and effective. A real racing ace has a polygonal cheek profile, but this can suffice, for practice... I suppose you're right!

First things first, cleaned all of the laquer off of the steel, next need to thin out the haft, way too thick for my hands and has little bend to it, then it will need to be oiled. Finally I'll decide on a grind profile before I sharpen it. Pretty excited, though!


----------



## Mustang71

What's everyone using to sharpening their axe and/or machete? I sharpen my Gerber folding knife with a small stone. I did my other axes with the die grinder but what about the fiskars? I don't need shaving sharp but for my machete that would be nice. I've used my small stone on the machete.


----------



## Multifaceted

Mustang71 said:


> What's everyone using to sharpening their axe and/or machete? I sharpen my Gerber folding knife with a small stone. I did my other axes with the die grinder but what about the fiskars? I don't need shaving sharp but for my machete that would be nice. I've used my small stone on the machete.




For axes I use 120/280 and 400/1000 grit stones, then strop with polishing wheel and compound. Die grinder on the hardened bit can get too hot very quickly and draw the temper if not careful. For machetes I just use a bastard mill file only. They are so thin and take such a beating, there's no need to keep them shaving sharp. Plus the steel on machetes are usually a little softer so they are very easy to sharpen with a file.


----------



## LondonNeil

that arvika looks lovely, hope it works well!

I find a rough file is all I need on my x17 and x27, the metal is pretty soft and files up fast. Filing my stihl maul is much harder work, although it gets it done


----------



## Mustang71

Im going to say the fiskars is softer than my machete. I wouldn't use the die grinder on the fiskars but some of my no name axes are pretty hard steel that don't hold an edge. Chinese steel. It's made from 2 old cars and a soup can all melted together lol. I'll have to try a file.


----------



## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> Sort of, I really just like a good axe and these Tassie patterns are just so cool and effective. A real racing ace has a polygonal cheek profile, but this can suffice, for practice... I suppose you're right!
> 
> First things first, cleaned all of the laquer off of the steel, next need to thin out the haft, way too thick for my hands and has little bend to it, then it will need to be oiled. Finally I'll decide on a grind profile before I sharpen it. Pretty excited, though!


What brand of handle did it come with ,Mine says Unex ,fits my hands perfect ,smaller than some at the lower curve ,got mine out of Canada though .


----------



## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> What brand of handle did it come with ,Mine says Unex ,fits my hands perfect ,smaller than some at the lower curve ,got mine out of Canada though .



It doesn't say, the handle seems to be of the same quality of other HB, GB, and Wetterlings axes, they're turned by the same company. The grain orientation is top notch, only that the handle is a little thick. It is my understanding that these axes we're designed to be customized tailored by the end user, which is what I intend to do.

Here's the handle:


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> that arvika looks lovely, hope it works well!
> 
> I find a rough file is all I need on my x17 and x27, the metal is pretty soft and files up fast. Filing my stihl maul is much harder work, although it gets it done



I'm inclined to think that it will impress, and throw some big chips. As always, the proof is in the pudding, so I plan to get this work-ready by Sunday, weather permitting. Then I can do an actual review of performance.

After buying this and my 2.0 kg Basque axe, I'll need to sell off soon my current restorations to recoup the money...


----------



## Multifaceted

So much wood came off of this handle, but it's starting to feel real good now. Took most off with a spokeshave, then will rasp and sand to contour.


----------



## Ronaldo

Those Arvika's are just plain cool. Very beautiful pieces of metal!

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


----------



## Lowhog

Pretty sure Wetterlings made their own handles before changing over to GB. OEM replacement handle are getting scarce.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Pretty sure Wetterlings made their own handles before changing over to GB. OEM replacement handle are getting scarce.



You are correct, I misspoke. Wetterlings did, and I'm now wondering if Gränsfors Bruk has been using their wood turning machinery since they now run production out of the former Wetterlings facility in Storvik. The main handle manufacturer in Sweden is Smedbergs, who if I'm not mistaken, has contracts with Gränsfors Bruk, and Hultafors/Hults Bruk to make the handles for their steel.


----------



## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> You are correct, I misspoke. Wetterlings did, and I'm now wondering if Gränsfors Bruk has been using their wood turning machinery since they now run production out of the former Wetterlings facility in Storvik. The main handle manufacturer in Sweden is Smedbergs, who if I'm not mistaken, has contracts with Gränsfors Bruk, and Hultafors/Hults Bruk to make the handles for their steel.


Your handle looks like the same kind my Husqvarna axes come with ,my Arvika has different brand on it.


----------



## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> Your handle looks like the same kind my Husqvarna axes come with ,my Arvika has different brand on it.



That's interesting, I wonder why that is? Perhaps Hults Bruk export their forged steel to offshore vendors at a discount who then haft the axes themselves, sourcing the handles elsewhere. I did a little Google Foo and not only found a few vendors (also in Canada) with those Unex handles, but they also were at lower price than what I paid.... dammit...


----------



## Lowhog

Looking in the axe junkie group on face book one guy purchased a new 5 star for 89.00 Canadian dollars. Yikes!


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Looking in the axe junkie group on face book one guy purchased a new 5 star for 89.00 Canadian dollars. Yikes!



That's actually a good deal, though it'd be slightly more to ship it down here in the lower 48... still less than what I paid, but whatever, what's done is done.


----------



## Trx250r180

When see the Canadian price ,it should be a little less in Us dollars when go to pay .The place i got the Arvika from sells the Unex handles for 25 bucks Canadian ,My hand fits real good around the lower grip ,My other brands are a little thicker than i like ,need to be trimmed down .If look at the eye size it is larger than a regular single bit head also ,Must be the racing axe size .


----------



## dancan

You guys are costing me lol


----------



## dancan

I buy direct from the Canadian distributor ,GH Factory Sales and their warehouse is on my route to work .
They stock hundreds if not thousands of the Unex branded handles , if I'm not there to hand pick I'll end up with one good one out of 5 .
The fella that handles the heads is pretty good but it's just a job to him , a handle is a handle .
They had the Wetterlings and Hults Bruks , if it's handled with the Swede hickory the hang is pretty good but the Unex haft gets you the luck of the draw .


----------



## Streblerm

dancan said:


> You guys are costing me lol



I bought one of those a couple years ago. It’s not a bad splitter but I don’t care much for the balance. That and I’m always afraid I’ll overstrike and wipe out the handle.


----------



## dancan

WOoT


----------



## dancan

Ooops , wrong thread but there is wood involved lol


----------



## dancan

Streblerm said:


> I bought one of those a couple years ago. It’s not a bad splitter but I don’t care much for the balance. That and I’m always afraid I’ll overstrike and wipe out the handle.



First impressions are that the longer bit with the weight at the back help with kickout , it was easy to unstick from the rounds and could deal with the knots that hold this tamarack together .


----------



## svk

dancan said:


> You guys are costing me lol


How does this compare to your other tools for effectiveness?


----------



## LondonNeil

Oddly I was eyeing that same splitter today, or looks very nice.... Probably because it resembles the gransfors bruks rather closely.

Then I saw a GB double bit on eBay. ..swoon! I'm watching it just to see what it sells for, it's head only, decent but with a chip from one corner, currently at £46 with 4 or 5 days to run. I'm thinking way north of £100, maybe twice that. Oh I'd love a nice double..... I've clearly been watching too much buckin' Billy.

Anyway, looking forward to reading how that husqvarna maul performs


----------



## dancan

svk said:


> How does this compare to your other tools for effectiveness?


I've only split a few rounds with it so far and I didn't split with another of mine to compare but I do like it so far .
It's not a replacement for the isocore but none of my others are either .


----------



## Lowhog

Always dreamed of moving to Nova Scotia and growing some of those giant tomatoes. They won't take me now being retired and on Social Security. Maybe I should become a youper or look at land way up north east Minnesota. Would like to have my nearest neighbor at least 5 miles away.


----------



## dancan

I'm sure you can be a "Snowbird" and come up for 6 months of the year lol
You talk funny enough to be a youper ?


----------



## Multifaceted

Took my Helko Spaltaxt with the Kydex collar guard I made for a spin today. Had planned to do some axe work, as well as chainsaw work. This pile is mostly black cherry with a smattering of ash. Some was split on the stump I flush cut, the rest using the "golf swing" technique. The haft took a few direct hits, and many scratching passes through the wood. So far, it has held up above my expectations. A real test will be when it's sub-zero temperatures. All in all, I'm very happy with it.









And here it is all cleaned up from the mud and sap. As you can see, very little damage.


----------



## Lowhog

A fellow had a kydex collar with small nuts and bolts holding it on the handle. It had a flange on the spine.


----------



## Lowhog

dancan said:


> I'm sure you can be a "Snowbird" and come up for 6 months of the year lol
> You talk funny enough to be a youper ?


Thought I was typing not talking but if you think I talk funny thats OK.


----------



## Multifaceted

I think he's joking, asking *if *you talk funny enough *to be* a yooper. However you talk, just be thankful you don't have the Mid-Atlantic, particularly the Baltimore dialect like I do. Some say it's the worst English dialect, except maybe for Geordies, but I embrace it, hon. We wear it like a badge, only hons will know what I mean when I ask if you're "gown downy oweshun".


----------



## Mustang71

Not that I know anything about axes but that axe head design seems cool to me. Does it work well for splitting or is it just as effective as a smooth axe. I know before I bought the fiskars I looked at that head design on a axe at homedepot. That being said I got a fiskars.


----------



## dancan

Lowhog said:


> Thought I was typing not talking but if you think I talk funny thats OK.


I saw a youper comedian talk about how funny youpers talk .
Not saying that you talk funny in your typing.


----------



## Multifaceted

Mustang71 said:


> Not that I know anything about axes but that axe head design seems cool to me. Does it work well for splitting or is it just as effective as a smooth axe. I know before I bought the fiskars I looked at that head design on a axe at homedepot. That being said I got a fiskars.



I actually find it be kind of goofy looking, but it is a very effective design. It will get stuck just like any other axe, but it will bite deep, so sometimes it can be a little sticky. I used to have the 34" fiberglass handle Mexican made Truper version from LowesDepot, but the steel was too soft and I didn't like the way the handle felt when striking. I gave the Truper away to a friend when I got the Spaltaxt from Helko. The handle is much shorter, 28" hickory, but the head weight is the same (4.5 lb). The steel is much better quality, C-50, about 47-55 carbon content, similar to 1049 or 1050 American carbon steel. It has a hardness of 53-56 HRC which holds an edge well and doesn't require much upkeep, unless it eats some dirt or rocks.

Sometimes I'll split with a regular axe, for batch processing, the Spaltaxt is my go-to.


----------



## Lowhog

Should be here soon. This Hudson Bay will be a work axe around the farm so I'll give a performance review in the future.


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## rarefish383

That's purdy, Joe


----------



## svk

Lowhog said:


> Should be here soon. This Hudson Bay will be a work axe around the farm so I'll give a performance review in the future.View attachment 627640
> View attachment 627641


That is beautiful! Can you get us a picture of the wedging? Curious how they hold it together.


----------



## Lowhog

Sh


svk said:


> That is beautiful! Can you get us a picture of the wedging? Curious how they hold it together.


Will snap a picture for you scheduled delivery is tomorrow.


----------



## svk

Maybe we need to get a little central/northern MN axe and saw GTG going sometime.


----------



## Lowhog

The wedge on the Snow & Nealley is steel they paint the top on these. Not sure if you can see in picture 2 the hang is off a bit.The handle is very thick vs the Wetterlings. The edge sheath is on the thin side. The cheeks on the head are thin vs the Wetterlings Hudson Bay. The edge is sharper than a hardware store axe but will still need some sharpening before it goes to work, the Wetterlings was ready out of the box. Still not a bad axe for 59.00 vs a 175.00 for the Wetterlings.


----------



## svk

Looks good. I'm wondering if changes in moisture would pull that handle one way or another?

Interesting about the difference in cheeks? The Hults axes I used to have had very narrow cheeks.


----------



## Lowhog

Not sure if


svk said:


> Looks good. I'm wondering if changes in moisture would pull that handle one way or another?
> 
> Interesting about the difference in cheeks? The Hults axes I used to have had very narrow cheeks.


 Not sure on the moisture I noticed the wetterlings is off a bit also. The Gransfors Scandinavian forest axe is thin cheeked too. The S&N should make a good chopper.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Looks good. I'm wondering if changes in moisture would pull that handle one way or another?
> 
> Interesting about the difference in cheeks? The Hults axes I used to have had very narrow cheeks.





Lowhog said:


> Not sure on the moisture I noticed the wetterlings is off a bit also. The Gransfors Scandinavian forest axe is thin cheeked too. The S&N should make a good chopper.




I'm not an expert on wood, but dry conditions will cause the wood to shrink and thus cause the steel to begin coming loose. Oiling the wood, particularly the end grain mitigates the drying, but it's also a good idea to keep them out of dry conditions, like indoors when burning wood which can be a dry heat, or during the summer when you're running the A/C, which also removes moisture from the air. I store my axes in my shop/outbuilding where they're subject to the outdoor atmosphere and while moisture and temperature conditions will vary, the constant dryness of the indoors is not a factor.

Sometimes I'll keep a small axe handy near the stove for making kindling if we're running low or out, but I'll put it out in our attached uninsulated spa room which is about 7 paces away to grab as needed.


----------



## LondonNeil

Do you stick new handles by the stove to dry that bit more before fitting heads?


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> Do you stick new handles by the stove to dry that bit more before fitting heads?



No, I do not. A quality made handle should be made from proper kiln or air dried billet prior to being turned. Advancing the drying of the wood will cause it to crack and split, you want a little bit of moisture. Handle wood drying out too much will, does, and is a common cause of loose fitting heads. The latter being applied to after the steel is hung.


----------



## Multifaceted

This is a review thread, but lately seems to have taken on a partial "show-off" element to it. So, while I can't review this just yet, I will show how I have prepared this axe to be the monster its reputation proclaims...

My most excited axe purchase of late has taken a back seat to my various other vintage restorations, but today, after battling a freak snow event, I finally put the grind to my Hults Bruk Arvika! What a beast of an axe this is, 4.5 lb (2.0 kg), 5.5" (14 cm) cutting face and a keen grind - it's just going to throw some big ol' chips. I thinned out the handle considerably, then sculpted the grip and did a little burn treatment followed by several coats of BLO and a final coat of beeswax and orange oil. It feels great, but it was not sharp from the factory... or, not at least by how I define sharp...


Factory grind had an edge, but was far from being 'sharp'... I filed the factory grind to a modified 25° Scandi grind in a "half-banana" profile. The 25° primary bevel was feathered out with secondary and tertiary bevels creating the "half-banana" shape. The actual edge I did a small 30° de facto bevel to give the edge some stoutness and resilience, because let's face it - while this is a practice "racing" axe, I'm not going to be cutting straight grained knot-free wood, no I'm going to be cutting indigenous eastern US hardwoods, so I need the edge to be a little more forgiving. The steel is incredibly hard, the file often would skate right off of it.






After filing I took my 280 grit carborundum stone (Lanskey Puck) and smoothed out the file marks...





Next, I used a fine 220 grit pad on my pneumatic die grinder to smooth out the latent file marks along with the feathered out stone marks. From there I went back with the 280 grit Lanskey puck, then went up in grit with my 600, and finally 1000 grit whetstones.






After stropping on the 6" polishing wheel on my bench grinder, the edge is now shiny and razor sharp - enough to dry shave. This axe with its 4.5 lb weight and keen 25° cutting edge will be a beast in hardwood. I can't wait to throw it into some logs!





Overall shot, 2.5 lb Plumb cruiser for scale, and might note that the Helko large axe sheath fits this perfectly.





All wrapped up and the main tools on display, plus essential lubricants...


----------



## Trx250r180

The Arvika is a good firewood splitter in my opinion,very well balanced ,cuts through knots nice too.


----------



## Trx250r180

Got this for xmas,have my Arvika ground at 20 degrees ,edge is ok ,it came with different grit belts ,have not tried them all yet.pardon the rust on the edge ,it was raining last night ,pitted it already.


----------



## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> Got this for xmas,have my Arvika ground at 20 degrees ,edge is ok ,it came with different grit belts ,have not tried them all yet.pardon the rust on the edge ,it was raining last night ,pitted it already.View attachment 630594
> View attachment 630595
> View attachment 630596
> View attachment 630594
> View attachment 630595
> View attachment 630596



Dang, 20° bevel for the edge? Whew, that's steep and thin even for a Scandi grind. I guess you have no issues with edge retention cutting those NW softwoods? 

I thought that a 25° grind was pretty thin for an axe of this size, but we'll see. Looks like it's going to rain this weekend, I'll get to use it one of these days


----------



## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> Dang, 20° bevel for the edge? Whew, that's steep and thin even for a Scandi grind. I guess you have no issues with edge retention cutting those NW softwoods?
> 
> I thought that a 25° grind was pretty thin for an axe of this size, but we'll see. Looks like it's going to rain this weekend, I'll get to use it one of these days


I need one of those guages to accurately make sure but the belt sharpener is set at 20 on the little wheel ,i did file by hand with a raker file ,then finish with the belt ,it pops doug fir knots off pretty good where its at now


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## Mustang71

Have any of you gentleman used an Ozark hatchet from Wal-Mart? I was browsing there out of season stuff today and found a fiskars x7 but not on sale then I found Wal-Mart's copy for 15 dollars. Same as the Gerber is a copy. They only had 2 and now I'm kicking myself for not getting one.


----------



## rarefish383

Did you hold them up and compare? I seem to remember some one asking if the Ozark was just a rebadged Fiskars a year or two back. They posted pics and the two were a bit different. I don't think the Ozark is of the quality of a Fiskars, but I don't know that factually, Joe.


----------



## Mustang71

They were in 2 separate places in the store and I didn't want to walk around holding multiple hatchets. People are strange. My thinking is I do all my splitting with an axe but I only split small kindling with the hatchet so it might not have to be super tough. That being said I don't want the head flying off and hitting me in the foot.


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## rarefish383

The price was right and I'm sure it's worthy of splitting kindling. I wouldn't worry about it falling apart.


----------



## Mustang71

And that's y I'm kicking myself lol if I had the cash I'd buy the fiskars and the Ozark.


----------



## Multifaceted

Can't stay away from the Arvika, laid out my next grind pattern for behind the cheeks. Not quite sure how I'm going to execute this with the haft attached, but we'll see...


----------



## Trx250r180

Multifaceted said:


> Can't stay away from the Arvika, laid out my next grind pattern for behind the cheeks. Not quite sure how I'm going to execute this with the haft attached, but we'll see...


What will that do to the way it splits firewood ? Will it stick more ?


----------



## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> What will that do to the way it splits firewood ? Will it stick more ?



This is meant to be a chopper, not a firewood splitter. The bevels behind the cheeks will keep the wood from binding up in the cut against the steel and facilitate wood removal. Not saying that it won't split firewood effectively, but I'm doing this purely for throwing chips when felling and bucking.


----------



## Multifaceted

Got one side mostly done, just a bit more touch-ups and some finesse. Used a bastard mill file and die grinder to get the job done, partly...


----------



## Philbert

Looks good. Now you need some ScotchBrite wheels to polish the faces smooth. 

https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...nding-and-drive-link-deburring-wheels.284866/
Philbert


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## svk

Pretty indeed!

I would have knicked the handle several times lol.


----------



## Mustang71

rarefish383 said:


> The price was right and I'm sure it's worthy of splitting kindling. I wouldn't worry about it falling apart.






I compared them side by side today. Same shape size and weight. Balanced the same. The grip and flare on the end of the handle is different. It's made in India and looks like they made a copy of the fiskars and changed it a bit to not have a lawsuit. I'm sure I could have switched the price tags on them and got away with it but I don't need problems. If I break it I'll probably buy an estwing.


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## svk

Imitation is the most sincere form of flattery I guess. Let us know how it performs.


----------



## Mustang71

So far it splits like a fiskars. Splits the wood and does not stick in. I really want an estwing so that was y I didn't buy the real fiskars. But my hatchet broke and it was time to find a new handle and weld up the head and re grind an edge or find a quick replacement.


----------



## Multifaceted

Spent the past three evenings casually filing and grinding on the Arvika working the custom profile. Now both sides are finished, smoothed out with a die grinder from coarse-med-fine grits, then buffed with a orbital pad and polishing compound. This axe is ready to tear through some hardwood!


----------



## Wilson_tree

Nice job on re-profiling the Arvika. I have one and ground a lot of metal off it to make it a chopper instead of a splitter. They are very hard steel and it is a lot of work to do what you accomplished. I didn't scallop out the cheeks because I wanted to retain the weight. I replaced the handle with a 30 inch hickory that I slowly thinned down to suit me. Enjoy the results of all your hard work!


----------



## Multifaceted

Wilson_tree said:


> Nice job on re-profiling the Arvika. I have one and ground a lot of metal off it to make it a chopper instead of a splitter. They are very hard steel and it is a lot of work to do what you accomplished. I didn't scallop out the cheeks because I wanted to retain the weight. I replaced the handle with a 30 inch hickory that I slowly thinned down to suit me. Enjoy the results of all your hard work!



Thank you, kindly. You ought to post some pictures of yours, would like to see what you did to make it a good chopper. For now I'm liking the 32" haft, which is much shorter than my other heavy axes (except for my Basque axe which is about 25", 4.4 lb) — but we'll see how I adapt to it over time. For standing cut bucking, the shorter handle is an advantage. Overall, I'm starting to like shorter handles.


----------



## Wilson_tree

here is my Arvika5 Star. I ground the cheeks so much that the stamping is fading at the edges. It's still a heave duty edge, but it is now a good all around axe.


I can chop, split, and drive wedges with this.


----------



## Wilson_tree

This is my kindling and camp axe. It started life as a 2 1/4 lbs Collins Hunters axe I believe. I reshaped the entire axe to make it an excellent tool for splitting kindling, shaving tinder, and light splitting. The handle is white birch and has been tough, flexible, and shock absorbing.


----------



## Multifaceted

Wilson_tree said:


> View attachment 632358
> here is my Arvika5 Star. I ground the cheeks so much that the stamping is fading at the edges. It's still a heave duty edge, but it is now a good all around axe.
> View attachment 632359
> 
> I can chop, split, and drive wedges with this.



You sure did take a lot off of those cheeks, I may flatten the cheek profile as well, but want to get some more feedback first.


----------



## LondonNeil

Thought I'd add a few more words about the fiskars x17. I've had it about 6 months now and although I've not done loads of splitting ( I have a 5 and 1/2 month old daughter too so been a bit busy) I've split 2/3 or maybe a cord with it. I've just been using it again on some Oak and it really really impresses me. Being a foot shorter and 2lb lighter than the X27 it clearly didn'td have the power of that tool but it does have a stunning amount, and like the X27 it rarely sticks and just feels so right. I've got in the habit of using the X27 to " chunk up" big rounds which need the power of that tool, or even the big boy stihl 8lber, but once i have a pile of quarter/sixth rounds I'll grab the x17 and use it to rattle through the splitting down to 3-5" splits that I need for my small stove. The x17 splits forth with ease, and is so much less work then the bigger tools for that job. So if you split small, it's great for easy stuff. If you have a big stove and load 8-10" splits it probably isn't for you though.


----------



## svk

These are going to be loaded up shortly and will give them a try this weekend out in the woods. Will report back after I put some time through them.

For the benefit of those that haven't followed the axe restoration thread, the Hudson Bay pattern was from my dad but I had broken the original handle with use and it kept wanting to walk out of the second one so I rehung it and left the handle proud above the head and wedged it extensively. The boy's axe head cost me a buck and although it had a pin repair job (which IMO adds to the uniqueness of it), it appears the repair job has held strong so it can be used for what it is due to the very small investment.

The handles are both from House Handle Co. They look nice now but needed quite a bit of work. I honestly would not recommend buying from them unless you need a handle quickly. I found both of these in the local fleet supply store and had to run through probably ten handles to find one with acceptable grain. I stripped the less than perfect varnish and finished with several coats of BLO. The BLO is nice to put on the heads as well because it dries on sort of like the seasoning on a cast iron pan.


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## svk

Thoughts?

https://www.bestmadeco.com/products...yqfpemG4ObSK4l9GkJAaAh0oEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


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## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Thoughts?
> 
> https://www.bestmadeco.com/products...yqfpemG4ObSK4l9GkJAaAh0oEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds



Does it come with a Venti soy latte? Re-branded Council Tool steel atop colorful hafts and a 200% upcharge over even the Velvicut ® line... And the outfit that sells them is based in NYC...

No thanks


----------



## GVS

Multifaceted said:


> Does it come with a Venti soy latte? Re-branded Council Tool steel atop colorful hafts and a 200% upcharge over even the Velvicut ® line... And the outfit that sells them is based in NYC...
> 
> No thanks



ROGER THAT


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## svk

Yeah the NYC bit was pretty funny. 

Reminds me of that old Pace salsa commercial where the competing brand was made in NYC.


----------



## LondonNeil

Spendy.

Steve, you're the closest to arbs official splitting tool group review authority/organisation, send them a message and offer to do a travelling spendy-axe review like with the lever axe.


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## svk

Did you check the specs? It comes with a users manual AND an embroidered patch too!


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> Spendy.
> 
> Steve, you're the closest to arbs official splitting tool group review authority/organisation, send them a message and offer to do a travelling spendy-axe review like with the lever axe.


Hey good thinking! Would be cool to see but I'm sure it would receive the same final comment as the LA: not worth the money.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Yeah the NYC bit was pretty funny.
> 
> Reminds me of that old Pace salsa commercial where the competing brand was made in NYC.



They aren't made in NYC, only they are "designed" and the company is based there. The steel heads are drop forged, hardened and tempered by Council Tool in North Carolina, then they are hung a by Best Made's Axe Shop in Maryland.

It's just slick marketing for a private label re-branding with a huge mark-up in price. For that kind of coin you can get one of those John Neeman/Northman axes and no hipster vibe.


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## svk

That's funny being the Council is a ~$35 tool


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> That's funny being the Council is a ~$35 tool



Yeah, but guess you're then paying for fit and finish... which IMHO isn't that much more value.

Don't let me stop you, to each their own. My comment was only my opinion, and opinions are like butt holes — everyone has one and they all stink!

In all seriousness, I'm not one to talk about spending good money on quality tools and axes. Last June I ordered one of the Liam Hoffman axes, put a deposit on it with a 12-14 month lead time. When it's all said and done it'll have cost me about $320.

Plus, I'm also eyeing up those Russian Toporsib Sable axes, which are in the $230 range.


----------



## GVS

svk said:


> Yeah the NYC bit was pretty funny.
> 
> Reminds me of that old Pace salsa commercial where the competing brand was made in NYC.




I remember that ,always made me chuckle.I'm from NY-- without the c.


----------



## svk

I'm just a couple hours south of you right now, Wynantskill.


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## svk

Multifaceted said:


> Yeah, but guess you're then paying for fit and finish... which IMHO isn't that much more value.
> 
> Don't let me stop you, to each their own. My comment was only my opinion, and opinions are like butt holes — everyone has one and they all stink!
> 
> In all seriousness, I'm not one to talk about spending good money on quality tools and axes. Last June I ordered one of the Liam Hoffman axes, put a deposit on it with a 12-14 month lead time. When it's all said and done it'll have cost me about $320.
> 
> Plus, I'm also eyeing up those Russian Toporsib Sable axes, which are in the $230 range.


Paying for quality is definitely understandable.


----------



## rarefish383

Think we could buy a couple thousand of them and rebadge them the "AR Special". Ax Restoration Special. If we resold them for 2-300 percent profit we could fly all of the "AR" guys to a central location and have a crab feast!


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## svk

I'm in lol


----------



## RedFir Down

svk said:


> Thoughts?
> 
> https://www.bestmadeco.com/products...yqfpemG4ObSK4l9GkJAaAh0oEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


My brother in law bought me this axe unfinished a few years ago for a gift. They want $188 for it today but I don't think it was that pricey when he bought mine.
I'm not much help on how it preforms... its so nice I can't bring myself to use it. It looks and feels like a quality axe though.

BTW cool thread guys!! Over the last month or so I have read it start to finish and just got done.


----------



## rarefish383

Neil, that includes you. Even if we have to put you in a box and send you Next Day Air. I'll make sure someone pokes holes in the box, Joe.


----------



## RedFir Down

Here is the only picture I have on my phone of the axe. I took that bull a few years ago with my BIL that bought me the axe.


Sent from my VS870 4G using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronaldo

LondonNeil said:


> Thought I'd add a few more words about the fiskars x17. I've had it about 6 months now and although I've not done loads of splitting ( I have a 5 and 1/2 month old daughter too so been a bit busy) I've split 2/3 or maybe a cord with it. I've just been using it again on some Oak and it really really impresses me. Being a foot shorter and 2lb lighter than the X27 it clearly didn'td have the power of that tool but it does have a stunning amount, and like the X27 it rarely sticks and just feels so right. I've got in the habit of using the X27 to " chunk up" big rounds which need the power of that tool, or even the big boy stihl 8lber, but once i have a pile of quarter/sixth rounds I'll grab the x17 and use it to rattle through the splitting down to 3-5" splits that I need for my small stove. The x17 splits forth with ease, and is so much less work then the bigger tools for that job. So if you split small, it's great for easy stuff. If you have a big stove and load 8-10" splits it probably isn't for you though.


I can't remember for certain if this is an x17. Does this look like yours? It works for light splitting as you stated, but really shines as a regular axe for chopping.












Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


----------



## svk

Hi Ron,

The black handled "chopping axe" is basically a X-15 (x-15 is a chopping axe vs the X-17 being a light splitter). The only difference is the all black tool has a longer handle than the X-15. I have both and really like them although the one you have performs better due to the longer handle.


----------



## LondonNeil

Think Steve is right, the head looks like the chopper rather than the fatter splitter.


----------



## Ronaldo

Spot on guys. I looked both models up and mine is definitely the X15 chopping axe. No swell at all on the cheeks for splitting. This is the all black model with checkering on the handle instead of the rubberized grip found on the orange models. The orange handled types have the model on them, but not these. It does work well as a chopper, as its extremely sharp.


----------



## svk

I wish the X-15 had the longer handle like your chopping axe. I prefer the rubberized handle of the X but the longer swing of the chopping axe makes it a more useful tool. They both work extremely well though and are my go-to chopping tools. 




Honestly if I hadn't gotten crazy with axe restorations I wouldn't need any of the wood handled tools since I bought these. 

I had to tape up the chopping axe with orange duck tape. Kept losing it in the woods lol.


----------



## svk

Took the two recently rehung axes out today. 

The quarry was frozen Aspen. The good news is my dad's old Hudson Bay axe finally held tight in the new handle. I had left the handle proud over the head and wedged extensively then soaked for a couple days in BLO. I did stick it several times while splitting and the head didn't walk at all when I pryed it out. 

The performance of the boy's axe head left something to be desired in frozen wood. It's just too light. It was a fun project and will probably end on kindling duty at my cabin anyhow which is fine.


----------



## Wilson_tree

I visited the Best Made Co store today to check it out first hand. The store was very nice, friendly and full of wood, metal, and leather. The axes are beautifully finished. Truly a work of art. However, as a working tool they aren't for me. The Council Tool axe head is an in-betwen size: too small for a competition axe and a little too big for limbing and chopping for extended time in variable situations. The handles are nicely turned and felt good in hand. They aren't too thick and I bet they have a nice whip to them. They are too long, though. It's the size of a splitting maul, not an axe you can use with precision in the woods. Most of my axes are about 30 inches plus or minus depending on the axe. I wouldn't dismiss them just because they are fancy, expensive, and from NYC. The guy picked a Council Tool axe as the base and that is a quality foundation to build on. The handle is thinner and more refined than any off-the-shelf axe you will find from any manufacturer. The axe doesn't fit my style of chopping, but that doesn't mean it isn't a nicely executed tool.
https://www.bestmadeco.com/visit-us


----------



## Multifaceted

Wilson_tree said:


> I visited the Best Made Co store today to check it out first hand. The store was very nice, friendly and full of wood, metal, and leather. The axes are beautifully finished. Truly a work of art. However, as a working tool they aren't for me. The Council Tool axe head is an in-betwen size: too small for a competition axe and a little too big for limbing and chopping for extended time in variable situations. The handles are nicely turned and felt good in hand. They aren't too thick and I bet they have a nice whip to them. They are too long, though. It's the size of a splitting maul, not an axe you can use with precision in the woods. Most of my axes are about 30 inches plus or minus depending on the axe. I wouldn't dismiss them just because they are fancy, expensive, and from NYC. The guy picked a Council Tool axe as the base and that is a quality foundation to build on. The handle is thinner and more refined than any off-the-shelf axe you will find from any manufacturer. The axe doesn't fit my style of chopping, but that doesn't mean it isn't a nicely executed tool.
> https://www.bestmadeco.com/visit-us



I can't knock the quality, even if starting with Council as a base with which to build off of, but for the price point of just the base, unfinished axe, it's just not worth it for me. Not because I doubt the workmanship - I hear and see the reviews on that it is very quality. However, as someone who restores axes as a side gig and a hobby, I can do the same work in an afternoon with the same Council Tool head that I could pay for a fraction of the cost.


----------



## svk

svk said:


> Got out this morning after the rain moved on.
> 
> First here is my review of the X-25: This tool worked much better than I anticipated. For the wood I was splitting, this was the peer of the X-27. Granted I'm already used to using a shorter handled tool but I think you can get a faster swing with less effort because you need to wind up to get that long handled X-27 going. When I get into larger wood in the future where a "kowabunga" swing is needed, this opinion may change but time will tell.
> 
> Secondly the X-25 is very similar in length to the Husky S2800 but it feels much better balanced. On a tangent, I noticed the same thing on the GB splitting axe I tried this spring as well; it just felt better in your hands than the S2800. With that being said the S2800 did outmuscle both X series tools in the larger rounds. So you need to decide if feel or productivity is more important to you. I know I can put more splits in the pile faster with the Husky than I can the X-27 but that's a different discussion.
> 
> On another tangent, I wonder if 32" is the optimum handle length? Seems that for me (being 5' 11"), 36" is a bit long and 27/28" is a bit short. Maybe another reason I liked that GB.
> 
> I pulled out dad's True Temper tools as well. The big axe really swings nice and was splitting right alongside the modern tools. The maul, which I don't care for as much due to its overstrike damage prone "sledge eye" handle, split wood fine but wasn't nearly as natural to swing despite having the same head weight as the big axe. Mauls don't really have much of a place in my splitting arsenal unless I'm out east where you need their mass and ability to be pounded through with a sledge when dealing with the tougher species.
> 
> View attachment 609003
> 
> 
> Tried to show the results of a single swing in equal wood.
> View attachment 609004
> 
> 
> The oldies but goodies.
> View attachment 609005
> 
> 
> Some real pretty wood here.
> View attachment 609006
> 
> 
> So in review, if you like the X-27 but it feels a bit long for you, then you will love the X-25. I'm happy with the purchase.


Bump for @James Miller


----------



## dancan

I went to the woodpile last sunday and today to split up some rounds
X25 , Granfors Bruk maul , Helko classic maul , Husqvarna splitting maul , Ochsenkoph maul and the Isocore .












With the wood I was splitting the all around winner was the Ochsenkopf with the Isocore being the winner of brute strength .


----------



## svk

What's the head weight on the Oschenkopf?


----------



## dancan

I'll check tomorrow .


----------



## Multifaceted

Found a familiar looking hatchet over at my dad's house today. I'm officially an owner now. Where do I pick up my card?


----------



## dancan

svk said:


> What's the head weight on the Oschenkopf?



Total weight is 7 1/2 lbs and I think the head should be around 7 lbs .


----------



## Philbert

Multifaceted said:


> I'm officially an owner now. Where do I pick up my card?


I'm not a big fan of the Fiskars hatchet. Maybe hatchets in general. OK for light splitting of kindling, and for making holes in tents when you miss the stakes. But the chopping axes and splitting axes fall into a different category. Really like those Fiskars as lightweight, effective tools, when used for their intended purposes.

(But welcome to the club!)

Philbert


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> I'm not a big fan of the Fiskars hatchet. Maybe hatchets in general. OK for light splitting of kindling, and for making holes in tents when you miss the stakes. But the chopping axes and splitting axes fall into a different category. Really like those Fiskars as lightweight, effective tools, when used for their intended purposes.
> 
> (But welcome to the club!)
> 
> Philbert


IMO hatchets are only useful for cutting the stringy wood from splits when using a hydro.


----------



## Mustang71

Hatchets are for making kindling if you ask me. My Ozark one is holding up good. It will work to split a split of ash if I need to.


----------



## Multifaceted

Philbert said:


> I'm not a big fan of the Fiskars hatchet. Maybe hatchets in general. OK for light splitting of kindling, and for making holes in tents when you miss the stakes. But the chopping axes and splitting axes fall into a different category. Really like those Fiskars as lightweight, effective tools, when used for their intended purposes.
> 
> (But welcome to the club!)
> 
> Philbert



I don't have much use for hatchets either. I already have an Estwing Sportsman's Hatchet that I keep on my lawn tractor for... well, cutting the odd fallen limb into smaller pieces to toss aside, and... I don't know. For light work, I prefer small or light axes. I don't like the short length of a hatchet, very little leverage. For kindling, I prefer a small/light axe. Then again, I mostly use small limbs and what not as kindling, so I'm usually just cutting them on the bias against a block. Limbs and sticks fall around my house all of the time, and they make great kindling. It's easier for me to just chop them into stove lengths than to waste perfectly good cordwood by splitting it multiple times for kindling. I'll gather some fallen limbs and sticks, then spend 20 minutes filling a rack that'll last me three weeks for starting and stoking fires.

I put a stout edge on the Fiskars hatchet and hung it up over my indoor wood rack for... I don't know, whatever. I suppose it's good to have an edged tool nearby anywhere, so this fits that bill.

I should say that they steel feels pretty hard, the file didn't skate over the bit, but it took some controlled passes to get the file to cut. Had a bad grind and some chips to get out.


----------



## svk

From what I can tell the Fiskars are hard but brittle. Once you wear them back a bit they are pretty soft. But for the price you pay they perform extremely well.


----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> Found a familiar looking hatchet over at my dad's house today. I'm officially an owner now. Where do I pick up my card?


Nice, how's it throw?


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> Nice, how's it throw?



No idea, the only thing I have to throw it into are trees and that doesn't always work.... and probably not good for the tree. I hope that soon after my dad's house settles this week I'll have a great deal of my free time back to play with my tools rather than work on them. It's driving me nuts.


----------



## Lowhog

Cleaned up 20 Norway pines yesterday in about 5 hours using the new Fiskars hand pruning saw. It made easy work on 1-2" dia limbs. It was a good workout for the arms, and a pleasure without a chainsaw screaming. The edge held up well.


----------



## Lowhog

svk said:


> IMO hatchets are only useful for cutting the stringy wood from splits when using a hydro.


I think my hatchet will come in handy chopping those pine branches down to a 18" length for spring and fall kindling.


----------



## svk

Just a thought, my neighbor has a big pair of loppers for small stuff. Seems to be pretty effective. He uses them to trim atv trails when the snow breaks branches over the trail.


----------



## Lowhog

svk said:


> Just a thought, my neighbor has a big pair of loppers for small stuff. Seems to be pretty effective. He uses them to trim atv trails when the snow breaks branches over the trail.


A nice big stump and a chair and I'll be set. It will be like chopping chicken heads.


----------



## Mustang71

I keep loppers on my atv as well as a small trail axe i made. It's like a 20 inch axe or so. Works well for knocking off vines or branches or driving wedges. Loppers work well for tree trimmng and so does the manual pole saw. No need to get poked with needles while trimming.

I would think that fiskars saw has a similar blade as the fiskars pole saw.


----------



## Lowhog

Fiskars pole saw could be my next purchase.


----------



## Mustang71

I have cut some good size limbs with my 12 foot saw. But for pruning pine trees it's awesome. The lopper part works really well. The saw part is real sharp and has a chisel style tooth on it. That's part of the reason I bought the x27 the pole saw worked real well.


----------



## GVS

I have the stihl version of that saw.Looks as if the teeth are deeper than on the fiskers.Cuts on the back stroke.Can really go through limbs!Rides along on the snowmobile or UTV.


----------



## svk

I think that style of serrated tooth came out in the early 90's. I had a saw from Gander Mountain that was like that but the blade folded into the handle. It would cut like mad. I bought 4 of them and finally have dulled the last one. Need to get a Fiskars at some point.


----------



## Philbert

Anyone remember the 'Woodzig' blades? Almost like a chainsaw cutter; sharpened with a round file?




I think that the tri bevel Silky saws cut better, especially in green wood, but still have a Woodzig blade (somewhere). 

Philbert


----------



## Lowhog

I'll post a picture of my old USA craftsman folder tomorrow.


----------



## rarefish383

I like the Silky blades, they are sharp. I've had several of the home owner grade pole saw/clip combos and have given them all away. I'd recommend a Marvin 3 piece pole with separate clip and saw heads. Cheaper than the Stihl and still of pro quality. Three 6 foot sections is all you want to handle over head. Some times one six foot section is all you need and it's nice not to be fighting the longer pole. I keep mine in a piece of 4" PVC mounted on my trailer. It has a solid cap on one end and a screw on cap on the other. It will hold 4 sections of pole, I keep the heads behind the seat or on a shelf in the garage. The difference between the pro pole saws is just like the difference between a WoodShark and a 660, no comparison, Joe.


----------



## GVS

Lowhog said:


> Fiskars pole saw could be my next purchase.


I have one,it's the best pole saw I've ever used by far.


----------



## Mustang71

That was the only pole saw I ever owned. Everyone says great stuff about fiskars and the reviews were great so I bought it a few years ago. The lopper part is my favorite part.


----------



## Philbert

I have had a couple of Corona telescoping pole saw/pruners, and they worked very well for me. Non-commercial use, but they cut a lot branches, tall hedges, etc. Different blades and pruning heads on different models so look at them closely.

Philbert


----------



## Lowhog

Here's a picture of the old Craftsman folder. The blade was made in USA, the handle was made in Brazil. Little bit of a faster cutter vs the Fiskars.
Ergonomically its a butt kicker after extended use. It is a great saw for camping or hunting trips its easy packing.


----------



## Philbert

Lowhog said:


> Here's a picture of the old Craftsman folder. The blade was made in USA, the handle was made in Brazil. Little bit of a faster cutter vs the Fiskars.


Upper photo shows a '_tri-edge_' blade (3 bevels!), common on Japanese saws. Must be sharpened with very slim 'feather files' (unless impulse hardened at factory).
Lower photo shows '_WoodZig_' style teeth; similar to chainsaw cutters, and sharpened with round files. Fiskars now owns the WoodZig brand and design.



Lowhog said:


> Here's a picture of the old Craftsman folder. . . . Little bit of a faster cutter vs the Fiskars.


I would bet that in green (live) wood, the tri-edge blade would give a faster, cleaner cut (when sharp) for pruning. The WoodZig might be a better design for fire wood and camping.

EDIT: Apparently, used to be an Oregon product: _"Oregon has not manufactured Woodzig® products for more than 10 years. Thus, Woodzig® parts are no longer available from Oregon, Blount Inc."_

Philbert


----------



## svk

I am surprised to hear the lower saw cuts faster. Must be an aggressive edge on the tooth that we can't see.


----------



## rarefish383

I have several folding and straight blade pruning saws. I mostly use them for marking logs with an 18" stick for firewood now. I have Fiskars, Corona, Fanno, and maybe Wesspur. But, the fastest cutter was the Teflon coated one in this pick. It's the one that stuck in my knee. I was cutting off a limb about the size of my upper arm. On the 3rd stroke the blade went through and kept going and stuck in my knee cap. It hurt.


----------



## Philbert

They are _HAND_ saws, _not_ _KNEE_ saws!

Philbert


----------



## rarefish383

Silly Me.


----------



## svk

Joe I was really impressed to see the large size of those hand saws in person at your house. Definitely would put meat on a man's bones if he was using those consistently for limbing and climbing duties!


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> Definitely would put meat on a man's bones . . .



_Or_ take it off!!!!!


Philbert


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> _Or_ take it off!!!!!
> 
> 
> Philbert


You are such a worry wart!


----------



## rarefish383

Philbert said:


> _Or_ take it off!!!!!
> 
> 
> Philbert


My Dad was 6' with a 28 inch waist and a 48 inch chest. His nick name was Buns, because when he got out of WWII his shop was next to a bakery and he would get half a dozen custard eclairs for breakfast every day. He still had a 28 inch waist until he retired in 1986 at age 63. It also kept it off, even after he quit eating eclairs.


----------



## Lowhog

rarefish383 said:


> I have several folding and straight blade pruning saws. I mostly use them for marking logs with an 18" stick for firewood now. I have Fiskars, Corona, Fanno, and maybe Wesspur. But, the fastest cutter was the Teflon coated one in this pick. It's the one that stuck in my knee. I was cutting off a limb about the size of my upper arm. On the 3rd stroke the blade went through and kept going and stuck in my knee cap. It hurt.


Saw on the left with the scabbard?


----------



## rarefish383

Correct.It's late 60's early 70's.


----------



## svk

rarefish383 said:


> My Dad was 6' with a 28 inch waist and a 48 inch chest. His nick name was Buns, because when he got out of WWII his shop was next to a bakery and he would get half a dozen custard eclairs for breakfast every day. He still had a 28 inch waist until he retired in 1986 at age 63. It also kept it off, even after he quit eating eclairs.


A combination of great metabolism and high activity!

I couldn't gain weight if I tried till college and have ridden the diet rollercoaster ever since. Although my birth father was his heaviest in his 30's as well and now is lean and eats more less what he wants and keeps it off with modest exercise.


----------



## svk

Happened to go into Lowe’s the other night. 

Some decent tools. The grain alignment on the wood handled tools was rough but maybe one in 6 was good. 

The Truper brand axes are identical to my Husky axe from Hone Depot except the Truper has reliefs cut into the cheeks. 




The new mass produced Leveraxe do not come with a sharpened edge. This needs serious work to look like the original hand produced model.


----------



## Ronaldo

svk said:


> Happened to go into Lowe’s the other night.
> 
> Some decent tools. The grain alignment on the wood handled tools was rough but maybe one in 6 was good.
> 
> The Truper brand axes are identical to my Husky axe from Hone Depot except the Truper has reliefs cut into the cheeks.
> 
> View attachment 639575
> 
> 
> The new mass produced Leveraxe do not come with a sharpened edge. This needs serious work to look like the original hand produced model.
> View attachment 639576


Where did you find a lever axe? How much?

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


----------



## svk

Ronaldo said:


> Where did you find a lever axe? How much?
> 
> Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


50 bucks at Lowes. I believe they are available on Amazon as well.


----------



## LondonNeil

oh f**k, you said it, you said l e v e r a x e. its like saying 6 6 6 at midnight on a full moon...satan will appear and ruin the thread with links to youtube and reviews of his product. that guy mist have the best search engine and notification system going, google can pick up a thing or 2 from him.


----------



## Ronaldo

svk said:


> 50 bucks at Lowes. I believe they are available on Amazon as well.


Now that I'm home on the PC, I can see them and the price on the rack in your picture. And that does look to be super dull!!!!!!


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> 50 bucks at Lowes. I believe they are available on Amazon as well.





LondonNeil said:


> oh f**k, you said it, you said l e v e r a x e.



They can send the $50 to me and split wood just as well (_did I just say that out loud?_)

Philbert


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> oh f**k, you said it, you said l e v e r a x e. its like saying 6 6 6 at midnight on a full moon...satan will appear and ruin the thread with links to youtube and reviews of his product. that guy mist have the best search engine and notification system going, google can pick up a thing or 2 from him.


Oh that’s funny. 

There’s a reason I didn’t put this in the dedicated LA thread.... lol.


----------



## svk

I might just put up a post over there to see how long it takes


----------



## svk

@LondonNeil start the timer


----------



## rarefish383

I haven't got a pic yet, but I bought a new Ace Hardware/Collins double. It was $31 and I had a $10 off card. I got it to practice throwing because I'm afraid to hurt the Plumb Double that Clarence hung for me. It's a work of art. The Collins is 3 1/2 pounds and a bit heavy to throw. My first throw it looked like slow motion and it rotated 180 degrees from release and hit square on the handle end. The handle is WAY TOO FAT. It feels like holding the fat end of a baseball bat. I'm going to shave and flatten it, going for an octagonal shape to the handle. I'll also shorten it to about 28". Maybe I can learn to throw it then. Oh, I did chop down a little Gum with it. It chops OK, the blade is sharp enough for a factory grind, and the handle is too fat to grip comfortably. I'll update on how it throws after the adjustments. That's all I use axes for, I have saws and a splitter for the other stuff.


----------



## NCPT

Just sharpened/dressed these today and figured I would share. Here's what I use until I get a wood splitter.....

8lb true temper maul. It busts like crazy and gets the most use. I want a wooden handle maul but I'm not accurate enough when using my wedges....getting there though.

That black and yellow handle axe is more of a garden tool, it's not good for splitting any type of wood.

3lb and 5lb wedges with a 4lb hammer to get them started.

Plumb hatchet and a Estwing roofing hatchet that I shaped to match the Plumb shape. I use the Plumb to split 2x4 kindling (had to wrap the handle because it was too small for my hand). The Estwing is a solid tool but haven't found a good use for it yet.

I am going to fit a handle to that axe head hoping I'll have a better axe then the other one I have. I found that pry bar the other day and just knocked the rust off and threw it in the pic....it's actually a Snap-On.


----------



## rarefish383

I love the little Plumb, is there a makers mark on the polished head? Joe.


----------



## NCPT

rarefish383 said:


> I love the little Plumb, is there a makers mark on the polished head? Joe.


I haven't even paid attention. I'll check when I go back out there tomorrow. It would be perfect if the handle fit better....I hate that wrap on it.


----------



## NCPT

NCPT said:


> I haven't even paid attention. I'll check when I go back out there tomorrow. It would be perfect if the handle fit better....I hate that wrap on it.


I looked the hatchet over and no makers mark that I could tell.


----------



## svk

So I’m curious if this Dewalt offering is rebranded or their own design?

http://www.landmsupply.com/search-results/dewalt-20-oz-exocore-campers-hatchet


----------



## Homelitexl903

The Dewalt Exo core axe seems interesting. It looks like a cross between a Fiskars splitting axe and a Wilton maul.


----------



## Mustang71

I own dewalt stuff and I have noticed their name on things that I own that were not dewalt. Like I had a Stanley tool box for work and I replaced it with the same box but now it says dewalt. I own their cordless tools and do believe they make quality stuff. For that price I would buy it I know my Ozark may be a copy of the fiskars but i would think dewalt looked at what sells and made their own version. 

Just a thought. Btw the Ozark is holding up as good as my x27 is.


----------



## Philbert

Stanley owns DeWalt.

http://toolguyd.com/tool-brands-corporate-affiliations/

Philbert


----------



## svk

Soaked these old horseshoes in Ospho. They’ll be ready for paint tomorrow. That big sledge head is in the Ospho bath tonight.


----------



## svk

Oh woops I meant to post that in the restoration thread!


----------



## rarefish383

That's OK, sometimes I need things repeated before they soak in.


----------



## dancan

At least it wasn't a text for the girlfriend sent to the wife by mistake ... Lol


----------



## Mustang71

I hate when you send it to the wrong person. I don't have a girlfriend but I often fear that I texted my bosses wife, since we communicate by text for work, and not my wife. The wife and I just say whatever we want to say to each other when we are at work and it's not always something my bosses wife should hear lol.


----------



## svk

Yes and with phones trying to “help” you these days, they will often try to prepopulate the addressee, usually the wrong one. 

My phone was synched with an app we used at work of potential employees (currently at competing companies). So I’m trying to send internal email and it’s suggesting I send to the outside people. Drives me nuts.


----------



## Philbert

Fiskars Sale!

(At that store where you save BIG money!)





Philbert


----------



## Philbert

Also on sale at our local 'Farm and Fleet' stores. Might be worth looking into other local places if you live somewhere else. 

Philbert .


----------



## Philbert

*Bailey's Feller Axe*

I attended some feller training, and the instructor convinced me that I needed a special feller's axe (short handle, heavy head) for driving wedges, in addition to the other 5+ splitting, chopping, etc. axes I own. A lot of guys in these forums speak highly of Council Tool axes (made in the USA); so when I saw that Bailey's had a sale on their Woodland PRO axes made for them by Council Tool, it seemed like a good deal, and a matter of fate.

4 or 5 pound head versions available. 28 inch hickory handle. $39.99 (on sale for $33.99 through 6/11/2018). The comparable Council Tool version is about $59.99. A STIHL Pro Forestry axe is a bit over $100, and the Council Tool Velvicut American Felling Axe is $200! So there is quite a difference in price.

Received it today. Not impressed with the appearance - if I saw this in a store, I would have passed it by. Handle grain pattern runs at angle. Finish on head is pretty rough: looks like a product made in a third world country. Edge is poor, but that is something that is easy to fix.









Might still be a good performing axe and a good value. Not sure when I will get a chance to really pound some wedges with it. Also have to make a sheath for it.

Philbert


----------



## LondonNeil

Interesting, can you explain why a short handle/heavy headed axe is near for wedge whackering? Can't you choke up on a longer handled heavy axe?


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> Interesting, can you explain why a short handle/heavy headed axe is near for wedge whackering? Can't you choke up on a longer handled heavy axe?



Shorter handle allows for closer swings and often they are carried on the belt in a scabbard so you can access it more readily and swing without having to move away from your work. The short handle won't stick up over the back much and snag you on limbs when you're walking in the bush while carrying on the belt. The weights makes for more driving power and less velocity needed for swings.


----------



## Multifaceted

Philbert said:


> *Bailey's Feller Axe*
> 
> I attended some feller training, and the instructor convinced me that I needed a special feller's axe (short handle, heavy head) for driving wedges, in addition to the other 5+ splitting, chopping, etc. axes I own. A lot of guys in these forums speak highly of Council Tool axes (made in the USA); so when I saw that Bailey's had a sale on their Woodland PRO axes made for them by Council Tool, it seemed like a good deal, and a matter of fate.
> 
> 4 or 5 pound head versions available. 28 inch hickory handle. $39.99 (on sale for $33.99 through 6/11/2018). The comparable Council Tool version is about $59.99. A STIHL Pro Forestry axe is a bit over $100, and the Council Tool Velvicut American Felling Axe is $200! So there is quite a difference in price.
> 
> Received it today. Not impressed with the appearance - if I saw this in a store, I would have passed it by. Handle grain pattern runs at angle. Finish on head is pretty rough: looks like a product made in a third world country. Edge is poor, but that is something that is easy to fix.
> View attachment 653932
> View attachment 653933
> View attachment 653934
> View attachment 653935
> View attachment 653936
> View attachment 653937
> View attachment 653938
> 
> 
> Might still be a good performing axe and a good value. Not sure when I will get a chance to really pound some wedges with it. Also have to make a sheath for it.
> 
> Philbert



For $33 that's not tgat bad, my only gripe would be the grain orientation, but for wedge pounding it should still be OK.

A few months ago I made one from a restored 3.75 lb Michigan head that @rarefish383 kindly gave me.







As an aside, those little 3M discs are working great for my current restorations. A nice option to have in my tool arsenal! Thanks again.


----------



## svk

It’s a good looking piece and unfortunately if you order a wood handled tool youvare at the mercy of whatever orientation is on the top of the pile. Although I’m sure if it wasn’t used daily it would hold up for a long time.


----------



## Philbert

The rough finish on the head is probably more of an aesthetic issue than a functional one, once you get past the first few inches. Could still end up being a 'great value'. 
Just a 'heads up' (no pun intended) on what they describe as a 'top quality' axe.

Philbert


----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> Shorter handle allows for closer swings and often they are carried on the belt in a scabbard so you can access it more readily and swing without having to move away from your work. The short handle won't stick up over the back much and snag you on limbs when you're walking in the bush while carrying on the belt. The weights makes for more driving power and less velocity needed for swings.


So, is that what the little Collins I just finished is? A fellers ax? I called it a boys ax because it was so short, but it has about a 4 pound head. The handle is 24 1/2 inches and the total weight is 5 pounds. I can't bring myself to use an ax for driving wedges, but I can see where this one would be good at it. Pics over in the ax thread, and it will be making the trip to the PA GTG.


----------



## Philbert

rarefish383 said:


> So, is that what the little Collins I just finished is? A fellers ax? I called it a boys ax because it was so short, but it has about a 4 pound head. The handle is 24 1/2 inches and the total weight is 5 pounds.


You could call it '_Dave_' if you want! Lots of different terms for similar things.

I assume that a '_boy's axe_' would be a scaled down version of a typical, full sized (3.5 pound head) axe, with a shorter, curved handle and _lighter _head.
A '_feller's axe_' seems to have a shorter, straight handle, and a larger, _heavier_ (4 to 5 pound) head. I have seen similar axes called a '_miner's axe_'; presumably due to cramped spaces in mines.



(photo from Bailey's web site)


Philbert


----------



## Philbert

rarefish383 said:


> I can't bring myself to use an ax for driving wedges, but I can see where this one would be good at it.


Some guys use small sledge hammers or mauls for plastic wedges. The advantages of using an axe include:
- the narrow poll lets you drive one wedge at a time when stacked (if you can aim);
- you usually need an axe anyway to clear brush, limb, drive out face cut wedges, in case your saw gets stuck, to look like a 'real' woodsman', etc.

Sledge hammer for driving forged, steel, splitting wedges.

Philbert


----------



## svk

I have one axe from my Grandpa in the manner of what you listed with a larger head and shorter straight handle. I’ve used it very little but I think the short, straight handle is best for driving wedges.


----------



## rarefish383

Philbert said:


> You could call it '_Dave_' if you want! Lots of different terms for similar things.
> 
> I assume that a '_boy's axe_' would be a scaled down version of a typical, full sized (3.5 pound head) axe, with a shorter, curved handle and _lighter _head.
> A '_feller's axe_' seems to have a shorter, straight handle, and a larger, _heavier_ (4 to 5 pound) head. I have seen similar axes called a '_miner's axe_'; presumably due to cramped spaces in mines.
> 
> View attachment 653983
> 
> (photo from Bailey's web site)
> 
> 
> Philbert


Thanks, all of my Boys Axes have 2.25 pound heads. This one has a 24 1/2 inch handle with a 4 pound head. These pics are over in the ax thread, but this shows the size of the ax. In the pic of 4 axes it's on the far left. The single pic is as it sits now finished, with the original handle. All I did was set it about a 1/4 inch deeper and rasp the gray wood off and thin it a little.


----------



## LondonNeil

I thought miners axe has a long slender shaped heavy (6lb ish) head.


----------



## Philbert

LondonNeil said:


> I thought miners axe has a long slender shaped heavy (6lb ish) head.


Could be. Your axe? My axe? Miner's axe? Minor's axe? Mime's axe? . . . all variations on a theme.

Philbert


----------



## Ryan'smilling

Philbert said:


> Could be. Your axe? My axe? Miner's axe? Minor's axe? Mime's axe? . . . all variations on a theme.
> 
> Philbert




This axe is your axe, this axe is my axe, from California to the New York island...


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> So, is that what the little Collins I just finished is? A fellers ax? I called it a boys ax because it was so short, but it has about a 4 pound head. The handle is 24 1/2 inches and the total weight is 5 pounds. I can't bring myself to use an ax for driving wedges, but I can see where this one would be good at it. Pics over in the ax thread, and it will be making the trip to the PA GTG.



I would historically refer to a boys axe as being somewhere in between a hatchet and an axe in terms of weight in length. It's a sliding scale, but typically a boys axe weighs between 2-3 lb (900-1800 g) with a haft length of 18-28" (45-71 cm). Not quite a hatchet, not quite an axe; A "boys axe". I find this range of chopping tools most suitable for everyday work, often my small axes are my go-to with random chores around the property and bush.

Joe - I am cornfused - you have no issue with throwing axes, yet find difficulty in using an axe to drive a plastic wedge???  

I would think that the latter is less strenuous to the tool than throwing. Axes typically endure just as much force per blow when chopping or splitting than with wedge pounding. Axes are hung in the same manner as most hammers, only the eye is shaped differently, which IMHO differs very little.


----------



## Philbert

Multifaceted said:


> Not quite a hatchet, not quite an axe; A "boys axe". I find this range of chopping tools most suitable for everyday work, often my small axes are my go-to with random chores around the property and bush.



Used to like that size for canoe trips. Not too heavy, but large enough for fire wood. The one piece, steel Estwing was also popular for that use, along with some Hudson Bay (duh!) style.



Ryan'smilling said:


> This axe is your axe, this axe is my axe, from California to the New York island...



All my axes live in Texas . . . . (don't axe me or Billy Joel why).

Philbert


----------



## GVS

rarefish383 said:


> So, is that what the little Collins I just finished is? A fellers ax? I called it a boys ax because it was so short, but it has about a 4 pound head. The handle is 24 1/2 inches and the total weight is 5 pounds. I can't bring myself to use an ax for driving wedges, but I can see where this one would be good at it. Pics over in the ax thread, and it will be making the trip to the PA GTG.


It could very well be a "fellers axe".I'd like to know just when and where the term "boys axe "first entered the english language.It is new to me but my boy years are way behind me.


----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> I would historically refer to a boys axe as being somewhere in between a hatchet and an axe in terms of weight in length. It's a sliding scale, but typically a boys axe weighs between 2-3 lb (900-1800 g) with a haft length of 18-28" (45-71 cm). Not quite a hatchet, not quite an axe; A "boys axe". I find this range of chopping tools most suitable for everyday work, often my small axes are my go-to with random chores around the property and bush.
> 
> Joe - I am cornfused - you have no issue with throwing axes, yet find difficulty in using an axe to drive a plastic wedge???
> 
> I would think that the latter is less strenuous to the tool than throwing. Axes typically endure just as much force per blow when chopping or splitting than with wedge pounding. Axes are hung in the same manner as most hammers, only the eye is shaped differently, which IMHO differs very little.


I might have missed it, but I didn't see mention of "plastic" wedges. That's why I don't post much in this thread, my stuff is old enough that it's not relevant. Most of my old axes pre date plastic wedges, so if they were used to drive wedges it would have been steel. Even at that, I can see a feller using one to drive steel back in the day. They were just tools, used till used up, then get a new one. I threw the Plumb you hung for me one time, and I could see it under rotate in slow motion, and hit square on the end of the handle. It's been sitting on a soft blanket ever since. I'm not sure who was traumatized the most, me or the ax. I think it's feeling better, we'll find out at the GTG.


----------



## Philbert

rarefish383 said:


> I might have missed it, but I didn't see mention of "plastic" wedges. . . . Most of my old axes pre date plastic wedges, so if they were used to drive wedges it would have been steel.


I intentionally made a distinction, as many manufacturers note this. Steel-on-steel contact is hard on the tools, can send sparks and chips flying, etc. 
Sledge hammers (and the hammer ends of some splitting mauls) are intentionally softer to allow their use on steel splitting wedges. Plastic felling / bucking wedges are OK with most axe heads.

Philbert


----------



## svk

Technically a chopping tool!

This tree fell over in a snowstorm last October. About 20 minutes with the “grub hoe” and I had the roots chopped and pulled each section out separately with the truck.

We have several of these and although you don’t use them often, they sure come in handy for projects like this.


----------



## svk

This big axe works great for splitting. The one downside of splitting with an axe versus maul is sometimes the narrow head doesn’t spread the split out far enough and handle damage occurs. I should try to find some leather in the garage and wrap this. I sanded out the damage and treated with butcher block oil since my bottle of BLO is in another state.


----------



## Multifaceted

GVS said:


> It could very well be a "fellers axe".I'd like to know just when and where the term "boys axe "first entered the english language.It is new to me but my boy years are way behind me.



I've wondered myself and researched it, though all that I was able to conclude is that it was as I previously described — in between a hatchet and an axe, so the term "boys axe" probably started as a colloquialism in some region and quickly spread, or more likely - it was a manufacturer's moniker to a particular model which was popular and thus became part of the lexicon. Much like people refer to facial tissues as "Kleenex", when Kleenex is actually a brand name for tissues, or Band-Aid, Jacuzzi, Crock-Pot, etc...



rarefish383 said:


> I might have missed it, but I didn't see mention of "plastic" wedges. That's why I don't post much in this thread, my stuff is old enough that it's not relevant. Most of my old axes pre date plastic wedges, so if they were used to drive wedges it would have been steel. Even at that, I can see a feller using one to drive steel back in the day. They were just tools, used till used up, then get a new one. I threw the Plumb you hung for me one time, and I could see it under rotate in slow motion, and hit square on the end of the handle. It's been sitting on a soft blanket ever since. I'm not sure who was traumatized the most, me or the ax. I think it's feeling better, we'll find out at the GTG.



I was actually referring to plastic felling or bucking wedges. A fallers axe is oftentimes used by sawyers as an auxiliary tool, sometimes carried on the belt in a scabbard or sheath. I'm speaking as an axe enthusiast and not as a professional logger or arborist.

I definitely would not use an axe to pound steel splitting wedges, not only is it dangerous but it will damage the poll.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Technically a chopping tool!
> 
> This tree fell over in a snowstorm last October. About 20 minutes with the “grub hoe” and I had the roots chopped and pulled each section out separately with the truck.
> 
> We have several of these and although you don’t use them often, they sure come in handy for projects like this.
> 
> View attachment 654242



A cutter mattocks! They're handy alright, we often use a Pulaski for grubbing, trail making or stump rootball removal. Both are very versatile.




svk said:


> This big axe works great for splitting. The one downside of splitting with an axe versus maul is sometimes the narrow head doesn’t spread the split out far enough and handle damage occurs. I should try to find some leather in the garage and wrap this. I sanded out the damage and treated with butcher block oil since my bottle of BLO is in another state.
> 
> View attachment 654244
> View attachment 654245



That's a nice looking Connecticut pattern axe! I'm on the hunt for one to add to collection. IMHO, leather doesn't last long for collar protection. Sinew or hide would be a better option. I've been using Kydex on my splitting axes and it is remarkably durable.


----------



## Mustang71

Philbert said:


> Some guys use small sledge hammers or mauls for plastic wedges. The advantages of using an axe include:
> - the narrow poll lets you drive one wedge at a time when stacked (if you can aim);
> - you usually need an axe anyway to clear brush, limb, drive out face cut wedges, in case your saw gets stuck, to look like a 'real' woodsman', etc.
> 
> Sledge hammer for driving forged, steel, splitting wedges.
> 
> Philbert



I completely agree with this. I have a short axe on the atv when cutting for driving wedges maybe with one hand or 2 but also because it's a necessary tool when cutting trees. The short axe is like a framing hammer, big power from a one handed swing. I have limbed with it on dead trees and small branches on libe trees.


----------



## svk

My 13 yo son wanted to do something today so I put him to work reopening an old road behind the cabin. He put more use through the brush axe than his dad and Grandpa had combined. 

I helped with the axe in the third pic and the Fiskars chopping axe. I switched to the Fiskars quickly as this one was too big for brushing.


----------



## rarefish383

svk said:


> Technically a chopping tool!
> 
> This tree fell over in a snowstorm last October. About 20 minutes with the “grub hoe” and I had the roots chopped and pulled each section out separately with the truck.
> 
> We have several of these and although you don’t use them often, they sure come in handy for projects like this.
> 
> View attachment 654242


I was just looking back over the thread. My grubbin hoe does get a good bit of use around the house. We're always planting new plants and getting rid of old ones, and it works well. But, the thing I really rely on it for, is breaking down truck, trailer, and tractor tires. If you ever go to a tire shop they have a big hammer with a spade on one side for breaking down tires. The mattock, on the spade end, is shaped almost identical to the tire hammer.


----------



## svk

(Also shared in scrounging thread)

This larger axe that I rehung a few years ago worked great for splitting birch once it was halved. Stuck it real good the first time and had to rescue it with the maul.


May have shared before. I’m not a fan of sledge eye mauls. The wedge wood is trying to work it’s way back out on this one. Just too small of an eye IMO for the heavy work a maul is expected to do. It works well but if I lost this maul I definitely would replace it with an axe eye model. 




Good stuff. Sometimes birch becomes rock hard if it dries out after bucking but this split nicely.


----------



## svk

Did a little more splitting this morning. This one is on its way to becoming a paperweight.


----------



## svk

And...done

I think I got about two cords out of this. Granted I only used it on tough stuff. Not worth 10 bucks a handle to keep rehanging this when I have other tools to use that have axe eye or composite handles. 

If anyone wants this head I’ll throw it in a flat rate box and mail it to you n/c. True Temper 6#


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> And...done
> I think I got about two cords out of this.


I think that I have a fiberglass handle for that that I picked up free at a garage sale. Hard to tell what fits without trying to fit it. It's your if you are passing through this way.

Otherwise, think of the maul head as a small anvil . . . 

Philbert


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> I think that I have a fiberglass handle for that that I picked up free at a garage sale. Hard to tell what fits without trying to fit it. It's your if you are passing through this way.
> 
> Otherwise, think of the maul head as a small anvil . . .
> 
> Philbert


If it’s a sledge eye I’d definitely give it a try!


----------



## svk

Granted the grain orientation on that handle was perpendicular to what it should have been. I think that was rehung in 2009, back around the time I had first joined AS and wasn’t up on that stuff yet.


----------



## Philbert

Seen at regional farm store. Despite the Fiskars-like appearance, the handles go through the eyes of the head, like a traditional axe/maul.




More info: https://www.dewalt.com/en-us/products/hand-tools/hammers-and-pry-bars/axes

Philbert


----------



## Philbert

It looks like the 3.5# is a chopping '_ax_e' and the 4.5# is a splitting '_axe_'. Both called 'axe's.



Philbert


----------



## dancan

Philbert said:


> It looks like the 3.5# is a chopping '_ax_e' and the 4.5# is a splitting '_axe_'. Both called 'axe's.
> 
> 
> 
> Philbert




Looks like a Hipster commercial lol


----------



## dancan

The 4 1/2 lbs ax has a 3 1/2 lbs head and the poll doesn't even look like you could drive a felling wedge unless the pics are deceiving .


----------



## svk

dancan said:


> The 4 1/2 lbs ax has a 3 1/2 lbs head and the poll doesn't even look like you could drive a felling wedge unless the pics are deceiving .


Similar to a X-27 then? Sorry I didn’t watch the vid.


----------



## dancan

The x25/27 has a flattish poll that will drive a wedge , the pics on the Dewalt look like they have a taper and get very narrow .
I don't mean to get into a brand war but I wonder what Dewalt's warranty policy is on these .


----------



## dancan

It'll be interesting to find out how they feel in the hand versus the Husqvarna/Fiskars ?


----------



## svk

dancan said:


> It'll be interesting to find out how they feel in the hand versus the Husqvarna/Fiskars ?


Yes. We must know this.


----------



## svk

Just a thought, the poll is probably tapered because it eliminates any chance of using the tool as a hammer.


----------



## dancan

svk said:


> Just a thought, the poll is probably tapered because it eliminates any chance of using the tool as a hammer.



Then it makes it a "One Trick Pony" lol


----------



## Philbert

dancan said:


> The 4 1/2 lbs ax has a 3 1/2 lbs head and the poll doesn't even look like you could drive a felling wedge unless the pics are deceiving .


Looks kind of rounded in the photos on their website.

Philbert


----------



## dancan

Anyone get one yet lol


----------



## Lowhog

Found this unused Chopper one with its instructions and price tag on its haft at a antique shop for 20.00. Original price tag was 31.30


----------



## Philbert

Interesting idea, but . . . 

(I used to shop at KNOX!)

Philbert


----------



## Lowhog

Looks cool but ya it throws your pieces 20ft.


----------



## svk

Cool find! If you ever want to get rid of that I’d happily give you $20 on it.


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> Cool find! If you ever want to get rid of that I’d happily give you $20 on it.


'Firewood and Saw _*AND Splitting Maul*_ Collector' . . . .

Philbert


----------



## LondonNeil

sprung loaded?


----------



## rarefish383

Lowhog said:


> Found this unused Chopper one with its instructions and price tag on its haft at a antique shop for 20.00. Original price tag was 31.30View attachment 661371


My neighbor got one of those about 30 years ago. When he found out you still had to swing it, he never picked it up again.


----------



## Lowhog

Ye


LondonNeil said:


> sprung loaded?


Yes they are. They have a video on youtube.


----------



## rarefish383

svk said:


> Cool find! If you ever want to get rid of that I’d happily give you $20 on it.


Steve, I run across them at the auction, in well used, but good condition. I'll grab the next one.


----------



## svk

It would be fun to have even hanging on the wall as a conversation piece


----------



## rarefish383

My neighbor used to buy every gadget made that was supposed to do all the work for you. I remember when he got his. I was going to ask if they still make them? I looked on the Bay and there are a couple people asking $150-$200 for. They must really work!


----------



## svk

I don’t think they really work, just a neat idea. And his is NOS which really makes it cool!


----------



## Philbert

Been around a long time. If they worked that well, more people would be using them. 

Philbert


----------



## Lowhog

They started making them again I think the new ones are around 80.00 or so. And yes they do kick the crap out of other splitting mauls.


----------



## Philbert

Put those rotating cams on a Leveraxe and the trees would just split in their pants!

Philbert


----------



## rarefish383

Philbert said:


> Put those rotating cams on a Leveraxe and the trees would just split in their pants!
> 
> Philbert


My neighbor would buy one!


----------



## Philbert

This looked interesting:



A series of _looooong _videos, but pretty interesting if you are into axes.

Philbert


----------



## LondonNeil

Steven edholm/skillcult videos are great, he is clearly an intelligent guy


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> This looked interesting:
> 
> 
> 
> A series of looooong videos, but pretty interesting if you are into axes.
> 
> Philbert



Multifaceted is doing the challenge. I signed up too but haven’t done much so far


----------



## rarefish383

svk said:


> Multifaceted is doing the challenge. I signed up too but haven’t done much so far


Do you have to "sign up"? I just started chopping with my American Beauty, then after every wheelbarrow load switch axes. I just plan on clearing all of the Gum trees out of my woods. I did fell and chop one Gum with the little Plum hatchet I made for throwing.


----------



## Philbert

rarefish383 said:


> Do you have to "sign up"?





svk said:


> Multifaceted is doing the challenge. I signed up too but haven’t done much so far





LondonNeil said:


> Steven edholm/skillcult videos are great, he is clearly an intelligent guy



His 'challenge' is one thing. If you follow through some of his YouTube videos (there are a lot of them, and they are long), he has some interesting perspectives on axes, their use, etc. If you are interested in axes at a geeky level, they might be worth watching.

Philbert


----------



## svk

Chopping tool shootout tonight!

Here’s the lineup, from the top:

1) 6# True Temper 
2) True Temper boy’s axe
3) old axe head from my grandpa’s garage
4) axe from my great grandparents 
5) Fiskars “chopping axe”





The quarry, an aspen over my secondary driveway. 



I started off with the Fiskars versus the True Temper boy’s axe. Amazingly the True Temper was a little more proficient than the Fiskars. That was surprising. On that note I have another TT axe with a different profile that I’m going to have to test next time. 

Test #1, Fiskars (left) vs True Temper boy’s axe (right). Two hits from the right with one hit from the left to clear the chips for each axe. 



Working through the trunk with the 6 pounder. 



I then tested the three larger axes. While the 6 pounder works great for splitting due to its mass, it’s honestly too heavy (at least for me) to swing effectively while chopping. 

It was finally down to two axes, the head from my Grandpa’s garage and the head from my great grandparents. Surprisingly the smaller head from my Grandpa’s garage (number 3 in the original pic) was the top performer. I noticed they both have similar stamping so I’m wondering if they were originally from the same manufacturer. It’s very possible they were as my grandpa and great Grandpa logged together. 

As I mentioned I’ll run the top heavy axe and boy’s axe against my other axes as time allows. I’m still quite surprised that the True Temper out performed the Fiskars. 

Done! Will attack the second tree this weekend


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Multifaceted is doing the challenge. I signed up too but haven’t done much so far





rarefish383 said:


> Do you have to "sign up"? I just started chopping with my American Beauty, then after every wheelbarrow load switch axes. I just plan on clearing all of the Gum trees out of my woods. I did fell and chop one Gum with the little Plum hatchet I made for throwing.





Philbert said:


> His 'challenge' is one thing. If you follow through some of his YouTube videos (there are a lot of them, and they are long), he has some interesting perspectives on axes, their use, etc. If you are interested in axes at a geeky level, they might be worth watching.
> 
> Philbert



I did take up the challenge, and no, you do not need to 'sign up' anywhere; however, one ought to provide some video proof of your work or at least a photo of the amount of wood you processed. My plan was to shoot a few short videos that I'll edit into a compilation and upload to my YouTube channel, then tag Skillcult/Steven Edholm. In September when the challenge deadline ends, he plans to see all of the content that the takers have submitted or uploaded as documentation, then add up the amount of wood chopped. It's not really a contest, but rather a challenge and a curiosity to see how much axe-cut wood can be processed.

So far I'm about 25% complete from what I had hoped to cut, but the litany of summer chores around the property, pertinent home improvement projects, and going hard at scrounging for more wood as well as clearing some deadfall and standing dead trees has taken up a great deal of the limited spare time I have. There is still a little over a month until the deadline, and I have the remains of two more dead trees to buck and schlep downhill to my woodlot before I can pick the axes back up and start adding back to the pile. I'm confident that I can at least get one rick full before Sept 1. I'll tell you what, though - I hate sawing or chopping in the summer heat. I hate the heat and humidity, can't wait until fall. I prefer the cold, summer is overrated...


----------



## Multifaceted

In case anyone is interested, I created a thread dedicated to the 2018 ACWC (Axe Cordwood Challenge) and you can view it here: 

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/2018-axe-cordwood-challenge.316582/

It had some decent activity for a while, mostly others poo-pooing the idea saying things along the lines of "must be nice to have all of that free time" and whatnot, but @svk and I have both posted progress pics. Has been dormant for a few months, but if anyone is still interested in giving it a go, please post in that thread. I plan to once I get back on the horse.


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> In case anyone is interested, I created a thread dedicated to the 2018 ACWC (Axe Cordwood Challenge) and you can view it here:
> 
> https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/2018-axe-cordwood-challenge.316582/
> 
> It had some decent activity for a while, mostly others poo-pooing the idea saying things along the lines of "must be nice to have all of that free time" and whatnot, but @svk and I have both posted progress pics. Has been dormant for a few months, but if anyone is still interested in giving it a go, please post in that thread. I plan to once I get back on the horse.


I have a long ways to go. Perhaps a face cord might be a more doable challenge!!!


----------



## Lowhog

I'm too old for a challenge. Deer flies, horse flies, mosquitoes are the big challenge here. We can't go outside unless we have a 40 mph wind, so its tv and


----------



## Multifaceted

Have lots of biting insects and ticks here as well, so I have to put up with them while sawing, clearing the woods, and maintenance on the land. I sweat profusely so most bug repellent is ineffective after a short while. Last weekend I wss feasted on relentlessly... it got so bad I even had a hematoma in my arm... Fargin bastages ...

Another reason why I dislike summer.


----------



## LondonNeil

try a smokey fire nearby, or even a jos stick can be enough to keep some away.


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> try a smokey fire nearby, or even a jos stick can be enough to keep some away.



Where I've been sawing is on a moderately steep hill in a wooded area about 250-300m from my house and our controlled burning area with water hose reach. Despite our incredibly wet spring and early summer, the past few weeks have been relatively dry, so I do not feel comfortable having something smoldering amid dried leaves, twigs, and other bio matter without adequate means to put out a fire. Otherwise, that works well. When I'm bucking or splitting in my wood area which has my burn barrels, I'll often burn brush and refuse to lessen the pile and keep the bugs away.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> I have a long ways to go. Perhaps a face cord might be a more doable challenge!!!



The minimum requirement is a rick 4' high by 8' long. No depth is mentioned, so that says face cord to me 

Obviously, a rick of those dimensions made from 8" long splits would be rediculous, and would still count, but ought to give the axe driver enough pause to consider what the heck they are doing...


----------



## svk

People swear by those wrist worn bug repellers. I just use a headnet and good big spray of exposed skin


----------



## rarefish383

OK, the challenge is back on. I'll knock down a couple more Gums tomorrow and stack what I have, Will take a couple stills, and if I'm still alive when my son gets home, he can shoot a short vid.


----------



## Lowhog

Just sold the farm. We are moving to the Georgia Mountains away from these awful mosquitoes. Had enough!


----------



## Mustang71

It's weird but mosquitos dont bother me I have almost no reaction to them. I could get bit and 10 min later I wouldn't know. 

I split my 7 face cords with an ax like I do every year that should count for something. That's the easy part I couldn't imagine chopping up a large tree with an ax.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Just sold the farm. We are moving to the Georgia Mountains away from these awful mosquitoes. Had enough!



Wow, that was quick! Be mindful of the welcoming committee:









Mustang71 said:


> It's weird but mosquitos dont bother me I have almost no reaction to them. I could get bit and 10 min later I wouldn't know.
> 
> I split my 7 face cords with an ax like I do every year that should count for something. That's the easy part I couldn't imagine chopping up a large tree with an ax.



I, too, split all of my wood by hand. Have done 5-6 cords already stacked since October of last year. For the challenge the wood needs to be processed entirely with an axe, the only reception for a crosscut saw is to back cut and wedge a potentially dangerous lay. I've been sticking to smallish to medium sized trees. Large trees are too much work. Even back when the axe was a primary tool, crosscut saws were still used in conjunction.


----------



## Erik B

svk said:


> People swear by those wrist worn bug repellers. I just use a headnet and good big spray of exposed skin


I use Buggins. It is available at Menards, or at least it was in past years. Doesn't smell bad and it works.


----------



## Lowhog

I bet you have those in the PA mountains also. I seen quite a few in the North Jersey Mountains


----------



## svk

How did you guys find a picture of me?


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> I bet you have those in the PA mountains also. I seen quite a few in the North Jersey Mountains



Oh, man... We have 'em here too, but you have to stray far off the state roads to find 'em. We call them chuds, or mountain people. I only posted the pic because Deliverance was set in the hills of NW Georgia is all.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> How did you guys find a picture of me?



Ha ha, Joe @rarefish383 gave it to me....


----------



## rarefish383

Multifaceted said:


> Ha ha, Joe @rarefish383 gave it to me....


Cept you was a holdin a big ol Homerlite!


----------



## svk

Had one more boy’s axe at the cabin to test out against the defending lightweight champ. 

They look pretty similar. 



Here too



Not here though. Significant difference in thickness. 


The thinner profiled head (which bested the Fiskars the other night) was the better chopper. When “crosscutting” it was significantly more effective. When you did the angular “cleanup” swing and hit the tree at a 45 degree angle the difference in effectiveness was not as large. 




This one was only hung last year but wanted to walk out. I was able to tap the end of the handle on a rock and it came back down. This is the last handle that I’ll cut flush with the head. Everything from this point forward will be left proud.


----------



## LondonNeil

You hung that one? You wouldn't do Shoulder now though.


----------



## rarefish383

I prefer a flush hang. I think the first proud handles I saw were European. Then a bunch of guys on websites started hanging everything proud. I thought it was just a fast way to hang a handle, less hand fitting. Leave some wood sticking through and put a fat wedge in it to spread the wood. I have a couple axes pushing 100 years old with flush hangs that are still tight and serviceable. I like the old video from the Forest Service, he hangs all of his flush. I think it might have been the first version of the same guy that was in print, and he said never drive a steel wedge cross ways, only in line with the kerf. But, I think he said that was a strength issue, not a tightness issue. I'd have to look up the old print version and re read it. The double that Multifaceted hung for me was a little proud and looks Very Nice. Some of the ones you see, on line, look like they just grind the handle down till it sticks through loose. Leave an inch of wood sticking through and wedge it so far the wood bends and makes a pressure fit, instead of hand fitting for a tight friction fit. I don't like them at all.


----------



## Mustang71

I can't imagine it's easy to split wood that's chopped into pieces. I usually like to stand it on a flat end to split it.


----------



## Trx250r180

To be continued ......


----------



## LondonNeil

Ooooo. more double bit gorgeousness tonight! (see the resto thread fr more). what is it?

your spoke shave looks brand new, bought for this task? have you sharpened it? it won't come sharp, it'll cut much better sharp.


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> Oh, man... We have 'em here too, but you have to stray far off the state roads to find 'em. We call them chuds, or mountain people. I only posted the pic because Deliverance was set in the hills of NW Georgia is all.


Google: Ramapo mountain people.


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> You hung that one? You wouldn't do Shoulder now though.


Yes. It was really tight when I hung it but wanted to walk. I’ll drive another metal wedge in it to shore it up.


----------



## Multifaceted

Trx250r180 said:


> View attachment 663028
> View attachment 663029
> View attachment 663030
> 
> 
> To be continued ......



Looking good, brother!



LondonNeil said:


> Ooooo. more double bit gorgeousness tonight! (see the resto thread fr more). what is it?
> 
> your spoke shave looks brand new, bought for this task? have you sharpened it? it won't come sharp, it'll cut much better sharp.



Come upon any doubles in the UK much? I might be able to help you out if not...



Lowhog said:


> Google: Ramapo mountain people.



I have heard of them, but can't say I know much. Will check it out!


----------



## Trx250r180

LondonNeil said:


> Ooooo. more double bit gorgeousness tonight! (see the resto thread fr more). what is it?
> 
> your spoke shave looks brand new, bought for this task? have you sharpened it? it won't come sharp, it'll cut much better sharp.


I may have to sharpen it ,it was shaving and i got the handle down to where i wanted it but it was very grabby and not too smooth 
,i got the rough shape then sanded it from there ,the axe is a council ,only real double bit that i could find new without spending several hundred on one ,think it was about 80 bucks roughly .It' sticks more than my no name double bit because its thinner faced ,but with maple ,alder and doug fir it did ok ,has a nice balance being double bit ,swings nice through the air compared to the Arvika ,the Arvika will bust up tougher stuff though over this one ,The head has some patina now from the wood discoloring it ,and the handle has been soaked in blo and taking a nice color from the sun , only pic i have right now .


----------



## LondonNeil

I bought a super cheap spoke shave recently to hog off the material before moving a bastard file when fitting heads. I've given it a quick sharpen and got a half decent edge but it doesn't feel a great tool...i need to set it up better probably. i cuts of sorts though and is quicker than a file.

No we don't get many doubles in the UK. very occasionally i see a gransfors on ebay, and a bit more often I'll see a US one. There is a plumb cruiser, nice looking head, new haft (not a good hang i reckon, it looks to be 'shouldered') there currently. £41 plus a tenner postage, 3 and a half days left to go. I would guess it will go a good bit higher yet. Not silly money, but they are definitiely in the 'collectable' bracke if you know what I mean.

Are there any british axe designs you have an interest in? Maybe we could help each other get some unusual additions to our collections?


----------



## LondonNeil

here we are
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plumb-vi...648835?hash=item4d7765e743:g:rx8AAOSwojdbRITe

for reference, the wetterlings 6lb felling axe i bought last week i got for £37 delivered, although i feel that was rather a good deal. It arrived today, I'll get some photos up later in the week. I'd have been happy with the price for the head as it looks to need a sharpen but otherwise not bad. It turns out the handle (original, still with epoxy) was fairly described as 'nicked but plenty of life left' it even has the remnants of a label on the shaft.


----------



## rarefish383

Neil, looks kind of like this one.


----------



## LondonNeil

does look very much like that. i like thar finish on yours Joe, how did you get that?


----------



## Trx250r180

LondonNeil said:


> I bought a super cheap spoke shave recently to hog off the material before moving a bastard file when fitting heads. I've given it a quick sharpen and got a half decent edge but it doesn't feel a great tool...i need to set it up better probably. i cuts of sorts though and is quicker than a file.
> 
> No we don't get many doubles in the UK. very occasionally i see a gransfors on ebay, and a bit more often I'll see a US one. There is a plumb cruiser, nice looking head, new haft (not a good hang i reckon, it looks to be 'shouldered') there currently. £41 plus a tenner postage, 3 and a half days left to go. I would guess it will go a good bit higher yet. Not silly money, but they are definitiely in the 'collectable' bracke if you know what I mean.
> 
> Are there any british axe designs you have an interest in? Maybe we could help each other get some unusual additions to our collections?


Do you have the curved or strait blade spoke shave ,i got the curved one ,seemed like it may work on the curved handles at the time .I do not have much of an axe collection ,just some current models ,no retro ones ,i would like an old plumb or maybe a kelly or stiletto some day though .I do live where lots of axes were used so i will start keeping an eye out for vintage stuff when i can .
The one in my picture is a council ,looks similar to an old kelly double bit .


----------



## LondonNeil

curved body/base spoke shave. needs to be I think. i think i need to learn the nack though....not being flat you can hold it at differnt angles to the wood and I need to find th right angle and depth of cut that works well this is where a cheap shave suffers, the adjustment is not very easy.
This place, and the restoration thread, is addictive. I only have a couple of axes, but enjoy seeing what the other guys here have. Joe, Clarence, Dan have some really nice finds, so do the other guys....but those 3 seem...prolific!


----------



## rarefish383

LondonNeil said:


> does look very much like that. i like thar finish on yours Joe, how did you get that?


This was my prized Plumb Double that Multifaceted hung for me. He shaved the haft to an octagonal and it feels super nice in the hand. It just happened to be Valentines Day when he gave it back to me, so I gave it to my wife for her gift. You'll have to ask him the details of the finish? He told me, but I forgot.


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## LondonNeil

Lol!


----------



## dancan

Thanks for the compliment Neil but I'm just a hack, I know nuthing lol


----------



## Multifaceted

rarefish383 said:


> This was my prized Plumb Double that Multifaceted hung for me. He shaved the haft to an octagonal and it feels super nice in the hand. It just happened to be Valentines Day when he gave it back to me, so I gave it to my wife for her gift. You'll have to ask him the details of the finish? He told me, but I forgot.




@LondonNeil — the finish is mostly the natural patina after I cleaned the rust off with a wire cup brush on a power drill. The patina wasn't fully developed, so there were areas of bright steel peaking through. For the sake of uniformity, I used a small amount of Birchwood Casey gun blue on the bright steel spots, then gave the steel a light coat of BLO.

I'm just a hack too, one of my many, many hobbies and interests. But thanks for the vote of confidence!


----------



## svk

Mustang71 said:


> I can't imagine it's easy to split wood that's chopped into pieces. I usually like to stand it on a flat end to split it.


The fellow that coined the acwc mostly chops smaller rounds that can be halved or quartered while laying on (soft) ground.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> The fellow that coined the acwc mostly chops smaller rounds that can be halved or quartered while laying on (soft) ground.



Steven Edholm, aka "Skillcult" is his name.

Lately I've been preferring to split on the ground or in a pile. Unless I absolutely have to, i.e. it's a particularly knotty or goofy round, I'll stand it on a block. Often railsplitting it takes care of that and is less picking up and setting again. My technique is evolving into a 'handle as little as possible' school of thought... Ir rather, as little as possible while doing by hand...


----------



## Mustang71

So are we saying lay the round on its side and split it on the ground? I usually toss rounds into a pile and stand them up on my block to split them toss them into a pile in front of the wood shed.

Since the x27 my maul never left the barn. 90 percent split with the fiskars and the rest with the 10lb sledge and wedge. In straight grain wood I would say it's less lifting and faster splitting than a log splitter.

If it's not straight or is knotty then I cut a notch in the top with the saw and it pops apart with a wedge.


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> Looking good, brother!
> 
> 
> 
> Come upon any doubles in the UK much? I might be able to help you out if not...
> 
> 
> 
> I have heard of them, but can't say I know much. Will check it out!


Watch the move Out of the Furnace with Cristian Bale & Woody Harrelson its about the Ramapo Mountain people..


----------



## Multifaceted

Mustang71 said:


> So are we saying lay the round on its side and split it on the ground? I usually toss rounds into a pile and stand them up on my block to split them toss them into a pile in front of the wood shed.
> 
> Since the x27 my maul never left the barn. 90 percent split with the fiskars and the rest with the 10lb sledge and wedge. In straight grain wood I would say it's less lifting and faster splitting than a log splitter.
> 
> If it's not straight or is knotty then I cut a notch in the top with the saw and it pops apart with a wedge.



I was talking about splitting directly in the pile as how they lay. If I overstrike, my axe bit goes into the log or split behind it. Depending on how it lays, I'll either whack the end grain topside, or sideways. If the log is on its side, I'll whack it along the grain near the top. After I split a bunch, I just knock off the splits to the side with my axe or kick them with my boot, then resume attacking the pile until there's nothing left to split. After that, then I'll move it to where it needs to be stacked.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Watch the move Out of the Furnace with Cristian Bale & Woody Harrelson its about the Ramapo Mountain people..



I'll look out for that. Truth be told, I can't even remember the last time I watched a movie nor remember what it was.


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> I'll look out for that. Truth be told, I can't even remember the last time I watched a movie nor remember what it was.


I haven't had TV since mid May, when I get back home in late September I'll be spoiled. I guess I could always rent a movie and watch it on my laptop.

I do not miss it much though as I do not watch TV other than football and basketball.


----------



## Lowhog

Leaning more towards college level sports lately on the boob tube, pretty much sick of the pro level spoiled brats.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> I haven't had TV since mid May, when I get back home in late September I'll be spoiled. I guess I could always rent a movie and watch it on my laptop.
> 
> I do not miss it much though as I do not watch TV other than football and basketball.



We've been cord cutters for a number of years now, and I lost interest in standard programming nearly a decade ago. I used to follow the NFL, but my interest started waning with that as well, now I just don't even care anymore. Some of my co-workers roll their eyes with contempt whenever I mention that I don't really watch TV, but it's not that I'm against it, it's just that I really don't care about television. Every so often, my wife and I will binge watch streaming a show that's mutually interesting on Netflix or HBO, but that's about it. Most of the time I'd rather listen to music and tinker in my shop or work on current projects. I LOVE music, and like to jam out loud. Now THAT is a relaxing evening!


----------



## Mustang71

I usually get the TV on around 9pm and watch HGTV or some DVR show then by 10 I shut it off and go to sleep. The TV is always on ,usually Disney channel, since I have 2 kids but I like the radio and dont sit down much. Doing the HVAC life going from house to house i get enough entertainment. Maybe some day I'll have the time and patience to sit down and watch a movie.


----------



## dancan

No TV in my house for 5 years now , the wife watches what she wants over the internet , the forums and some Youtube is all for me .
I was listening as the wife was watching A&E , it was about Julia Roberts , I said to the wife "You know , I've never watched a movie with her in it ."
Sean Connery were the last Bond movies that I've seen lol


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## Mustang71

At night when I'm sitting in bed after the day is done its relaxing to watch TV but only because I would be sitting in the dark if the TV was off. I watch NFL but only my home team, the buffalo Bill's. I have a million things to do besides fire wood so productivity is more satisfying than watching people do stuff.


----------



## Philbert

Philbert


----------



## LondonNeil

wow.

thank you Philbert, I enjoyed that very much. i had no idea someone could cut so cleanly, almost as if by saw, or so effortlessly, by axe. wow


----------



## svk

That’s genius @Philbert, thank you!


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## svk

Put up 3/4 cord of misc blowdown and standing snags today from the yard perimeter today. Over half of it was large enough to need splitting so the X-25 got the call. I am so happy I bought this axe even though I have the X-27 and S2800. It’s balance is so much better than then Husky and the shorter handle needs less energy to swing than the X-27. Of course when the going gets tougher is when the Husky comes out.


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## svk

I haven’t seen it in person yet but it appears I’ve scored a near NOS Chopper One axe for my favorite price. A buddy had scrounged it with some other and I told him I was interested and he said come get it.


----------



## H-Ranch

svk said:


> ...for my favorite price.


My wife says the same thing about me, mostly because it's true. One of my favorite stories of all time: At the time I was searching for a loader/backhoe my wife and I were laying in bed one night and she says, "You would probably like a free loader." Without missing a beat I said, "Honey, I thought I already had one." And then I laughed uncontrollably. She didn't get it for about 10 seconds but when she did she started hitting me. LOL


----------



## svk

I was wondering where the True Temper changeover from Kelly to Ames happened and found this. 

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/true-temper-timeline.1532184/


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## rarefish383

I quit reading after the second timeline. Does "Mann" fit into all of those buy outs? I had a Mann Jersey that had "True American" on one side. I think that's the one I gave Leadfarmer. I saw "True American" mentioned in the list.


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## svk

I believe it was the second post with the good info and I didn’t read past their either. 

I’m still looking for a Mann boy’s axe or hatchet to do for my wife. We used to call our old cat “the Mann” so we try to find products with that name. 

I’d also like to find a good HB blue head boy’s axe to replace the ones I sold when I didn’t need axes anymore lol.


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## Multifaceted

Gränsfors Bruk American Felling axe with three haft sizes available at Sheldon Hill: https://goo.gl/Y5HXz7

I seem to recall a few folks here looking for them when they were unavailable 

I used a link shortener because the url was a paragraph long.


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## svk

I’d love to find one of those blue HB boy’s axe heads to replace the ones I sold a few years ago.


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## Mustang71

Chopped down a cherry tree today with the machete. The boss decided he didn't want to line up any work today so I got to stay home. So I took the kids outside after nap time and chopped down this tree. All my 4 year old had to say was that I had to move the tree so mom could come home. I'll break out the old wood shark later and chop the stump down and cut the tree up.


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## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> Gränsfors Bruk American Felling axe with three haft sizes available at Sheldon Hill: https://goo.gl/Y5HXz7
> 
> I seem to recall a few folks here looking for them when they were unavailable
> 
> I used a link shortener because the url was a paragraph long.


I have a 31 inch.


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## Trx250r180

What would be a good head to look for about 3.5 lbs -4 lbs for a wedge banger that chops good and will stick to the tree easy while i am felling it ,my little husky forest axe does all that but is a little small ,i have a stihl axe thats about the right size ,but its a cheap steel material ,i can not get a good edge on it like the husky axes .the arvika is a good size i have ,but its more a splitter ,and it dont stick to the tree like i want .i do not want to grind the head any because i split wood with this one .


----------



## Lowhog

Trx250r180 said:


> What would be a good head to look for about 3.5 lbs -4 lbs for a wedge banger that chops good and will stick to the tree easy while i am felling it ,my little husky forest axe does all that but is a little small ,i have a stihl axe thats about the right size ,but its a cheap steel material ,i can not get a good edge on it like the husky axes .the arvika is a good size i have ,but its more a splitter ,and it dont stick to the tree like i want .i do not want to grind the head any because i split wood with this one .


 They say a true temper kelly perfect Jersey for chopping. Wedge banger not sure on that.


----------



## svk

Trx250r180 said:


> What would be a good head to look for about 3.5 lbs -4 lbs for a wedge banger that chops good and will stick to the tree easy while i am felling it ,my little husky forest axe does all that but is a little small ,i have a stihl axe thats about the right size ,but its a cheap steel material ,i can not get a good edge on it like the husky axes .the arvika is a good size i have ,but its more a splitter ,and it dont stick to the tree like i want .i do not want to grind the head any because i split wood with this one .


@Philbert had a couple of the straight handle Bailey’s axes, perhaps he can add to this.


----------



## svk

At Walmart this morning. Their knock off naul is ever so close in shape to mimicking the great and powerful Isocore. Much better than the rounded cheek crap maul at Home Depot anyhow!


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> @Philbert had a couple of the straight handle Bailey’s axes, perhaps he can add to this.


Good wedge pounder. 

Needs a lot of work to be a good chopper. 

Philbert


----------



## svk

Here’s a little Zenith from my dad that I’ve never used until today. It works alright.


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## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> I have a 31 inch.



That must be a fine axe. I wouldn't mind having one. It is pricey though.



Trx250r180 said:


> What would be a good head to look for about 3.5 lbs -4 lbs for a wedge banger that chops good and will stick to the tree easy while i am felling it ,my little husky forest axe does all that but is a little small ,i have a stihl axe thats about the right size ,but its a cheap steel material ,i can not get a good edge on it like the husky axes .the arvika is a good size i have ,but its more a splitter ,and it dont stick to the tree like i want .i do not want to grind the head any because i split wood with this one .



I'd say anything that's in that weight range and has a relatively flat poll. My current wedge banger is a fallers axe that I put together from an old rusted 3.75 lb Michigan that @rarefish383 gave me. Stuck it on a 28" straight stick and I carry it in a scabbard on my sawing belt when falling or bucking big logs. That way it's always within reach to pound a wedge or chop some dirty bark away for a cut.

That's funny when you say the Arvika is a splitter when it is actually intended to be used as a chopper, a Tasmanian pattern - quite literally a racing axe (basically a blank slate for a custom grind). From the factory they are pretty much just blunt edged clubs, but I put custom bevels and grind on mine and got it shaving sharp, now it throws chips big enough to eat off of. Obviously you certainly can split with it, but I tell you, get a proper grind on that bad boy and it becomes a devastating force.


----------



## Lowhog

Canadian outdoor equipment has the best price on them.


----------



## Trx250r180

Lowhog said:


> They say a true temper kelly perfect Jersey for chopping. Wedge banger not sure on that.


this the style ? I like the shape of this one ,the kelly looks to have a thin face and a nice wedge pounding area ,i like how my husky carpenters axe head is ,it chops nice and sticks to the tree nice ,just too light .

https://www.ebay.com/itm/True-Tempe...attern-Axe-Council-USA-6-LB-Maul/273373510563
This plomb has a nice shape to it also ,looks like its been hit a few times with a sledge though .
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Plumb-4-Rockaway-Style-Axe-Head-3-lbs-15-oz/132727344065


----------



## LondonNeil

That plumb would clean up very easily. The flint edge is in excellent condition. The big wide poll on the Jersey should make it a great wedge banger I'd think


----------



## Trx250r180

LondonNeil said:


> That plumb would clean up very easily. The flint edge is in excellent condition. The big wide poll on the Jersey should make it a great wedge banger I'd think


I like the look of those heads ,faces seem thin like a chopping/cutting axe


----------



## dancan

Lowhog said:


> Canadian outdoor equipment has the best price on them.



I'll price them out next week from my distributor .
I'll let y'all know the "Dancan" price next week lol


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Canadian outdoor equipment has the best price on them.



COE is a good retailer all around. Have purchased a few things from them including my Wetterlings Hudson Bay. Hadn't checked their site in a while, the promotion from Sheldon Hill came to my email specifically for that axe, so I posted the link without thinking. If I recall, COE has free shipping to the lower 48 for orders over 150 USD.

Edit: wholly spelling error, Batman!


----------



## Lowhog

Like this one.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> Like this one.
> View attachment 668230
> View attachment 668231



They are indeed, here's mine!


----------



## Multifaceted

@Lowhog - show us your Gränsfors American!


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> They are indeed, here's mine!


That is sweet! next on my list. Review I watched gave that kelly an A plus and the Gransfors American felling axe an A. Picture of my Gransfors on the next page.


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> @Lowhog - show us your Gränsfors American!


Factory razor sharp. I think it cost me 214.00 or 224.00 with free shipping.


----------



## Multifaceted

She's a beaut! What length haft did you select?

My only gripe with this axe is what seems to be a thin bit profile and hollow grind typical of other Gransfors axes. Nothing wrong with it, just seems better suited for soft woods. An efficient hardwood axe has some cheeks to it!


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> She's a beaut! What length haft did you select?
> 
> My only gripe with this axe is what seems to be a thin bit profile and hollow grind typical of other Gransfors axes. Nothing wrong with it, just seems better suited for soft woods. An efficient hardwood axe has some cheeks to it!


A bit more beef in the cheek area vs the smaller Scandinavian forest axe. These were made for American hardwoods. 31 inch haft.


----------



## Lowhog

Check this out The gransfors left, the paper thin Snow & Nealley Hudson Bay center, The Wetterlings outdoor axe on the right. Weterlings built more for general chopping and splitting with its thick cheeks.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> A bit more beef in the cheek area vs the smaller Scandinavian forest axe. *These were made for American hardwoods*. 31 inch haft.View attachment 668244



Still a little on the thin side, but considerably less so than their smaller native axes. I prefer the profile of Wetterlings, they have some meat on the cheeks.

I hear the name "American Felling Axe" and think hardwoods too, but here it is right from their own source:

_The Gränsfors American Felling Axe is a professional axe for those who want to work in the forest in the traditional way. The axe is ideal for felling very large trees, thanks to its long, broad edge of 11.5 cm. *The axe is forged to a curved bit, making it suitable for cutting into fresh, resinous wood such as spruce or pine.* The heavy head and long handle also give considerable power to the cut. The axe is almost twice as heavy as the Scandinavian Forest Axe.
_​_Source: https://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/product/gransfors-american-felling-axe/_
​Perhaps that is in reference to the curved bit. I just know from experience that thinner bits don't chop very well in woods such as oak, hickory, or ash. They seem prone to biting deep and getting stuck, rather than separating the fibers and throwing chips.
_
_


----------



## Lowhog

I gue


Multifaceted said:


> Still a little on the thin side, but considerably less so than their smaller native axes. I prefer the profile of Wetterlings, they have some meat on the cheeks.
> 
> I hear the name "American Felling Axe" and think hardwoods too, but here it is right from their own source:
> 
> _The Gränsfors American Felling Axe is a professional axe for those who want to work in the forest in the traditional way. The axe is ideal for felling very large trees, thanks to its long, broad edge of 11.5 cm. *The axe is forged to a curved bit, making it suitable for cutting into fresh, resinous wood such as spruce or pine.* The heavy head and long handle also give considerable power to the cut. The axe is almost twice as heavy as the Scandinavian Forest Axe.
> _​_Source: https://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/product/gransfors-american-felling-axe/_
> ​Perhaps that is in reference to the curved bit. I just know from experience that thinner bits don't chop very well in woods such as oak, hickory, or ash. They seem prone to biting deep and getting stuck, rather than separating the fibers and throwing chips.
> 
> [/QUOTE I guess that all depends how hard you swing when your chopping. I was always under the impression the thicker cheeked axes got stuck more when chopping. I can see any axe getting stuck if you swing like a Gorilla.


----------



## Multifaceted

> I guess that all depends how hard you swing when your chopping. I was always under the impression the thicker cheeked axes got stuck more when chopping. I can see any axe getting stuck if you swing like a Gorilla.




No argument there. That certainly can be the case sometimes, which is why there were innovations like the phantom bevels we see on axes such as the aforementioned Kelly Perfect Jersey. However, a distinct difference between American and Swedish axes are the cheeks found on American patterns. Too wide, like a maul as an extreme example, and it'll get stuck if it bites. Too thin and it can bite too deep, and the lack of girth won't separate the chop enough. Anecdotal, I know.... won't you let us know how it performs otherwise?

Ha ha, I'm far from the size of a gorilla, but I learned to swing an axe in the same manner as swinging a bat – it's all in the wrist and arc of the swing. That way is more efficient in chopping as well as conserving energy.


----------



## svk

Good info. I always (wrongly) assumed that thinner was better. I mean it works great up here in softwood country but I understand you wouldn’t want that in hardwood


----------



## Lowhog

J


svk said:


> Good info. I always (wrongly) assumed that thinner was better. I mean it works great up here in softwood country but I understand you wouldn’t want that in hardwood


Just watched a Gransfors American felling axe video in large oak and the axe worked perfectly never got stuck. So I don't buy into they are no good in hardwood. Plenty are being used all over this Country in hardwoods. Its all in the swing let the weight of the axe do the work.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Good info. I always (wrongly) assumed that thinner was better. I mean it works great up here in softwood country but I understand you wouldn’t want that in hardwood



I suppose it really depends on what you're chopping. Limbing branches or bucking small diameter trees? Sure, a thin bit will perform well enough on hardwoods. Notching a large oak tree to fell, or bucking large diameter hardwood logs... well, you're a glutton for punishment... Just saying...

What's most important for any axe user in my opinion, is to actually use it. The particulars don't matter much after that in this modern age of power saws and equipment.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> J
> Just watched a Gransfors American felling axe video in large oak and the axe worked perfectly never got stuck. So I don't buy into they are no good in hardwood. Plenty are being used all over this Country in hardwoods. Its all in the swing let the weight of the axe do the work.



Anecdotal, just like my opinion. Use the axe yourself and let us know!


----------



## Lowhog

6 weeks we should be settled in down in Hickory country. I'll give it its first hardwood workout down there. I love smoking meet with Hickory.


----------



## Lowhog

Never noticed that S&N Hudson bay being so paper thin till I held it up with the others. I can see that getting buried (Stuck). I bet it would be good for clearing a trail in brush. My wetterlings Hudson bay is very thick.


----------



## svk

Lowhog said:


> 6 weeks we should be settled in down in Hickory country. I'll give it its first hardwood workout down there. I love smoking meet with Hickory.


Wow you moved quickly. Remind me where you are relocating to?


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> 6 weeks we should be settled in down in Hickory country. I'll give it its first hardwood workout down there. I love smoking meet with Hickory.



Hopefully it'll cool off some too. Our forebearers who swung axes for timber in the dog days of summer were harder men than I (and probably smellier) - any time I bust out an axe for work in the heat, I'm soaking wet in minutes, my calloused hands are peeling and I'm fighting to keep the haft in my slippery grip. Did I mention that I hate the summer?

This might sound pansie, but I like to wrap a little sports tape around my thumb near the crease to ease the rubbing. Otherwise you'll get a blister and sore where there is no callus. I don't like using gloves when swinging an axe, but that area on my thumb always gets worn raw with extended use...


----------



## Lowhog

Multifaceted said:


> I suppose it really depends on what you're chopping. Limbing branches or bucking small diameter trees? Sure, a thin bit will perform well enough on hardwoods. Notching a large oak tree to fell, or bucking large diameter hardwood logs... well, you're a glutton for punishment... Just saying...
> 
> What's most important for any axe user in my opinion, is to actually use it. The particulars don't matter much after that in this modern age of power saws and equipment.


I try to limit my carbon footprint in this world but when I compare myself to a millionaire that puts 10,000 gallons of diesel fuel in his yacht once a month I don't feel bad using a chainsaw or power log splitter.


----------



## svk

My hands are terrible right now. On my left hand my aunts cat laid me open (he’s a snakey *****) and three of the four canines punctured, then I got a blister from using the rubberized handle on a scissor jack to change a tire in 85 degree heat, finally I got a bad sliver that I didn’t notice until it was infected. And I’ve done three cords of wood in that time and cut a couple more.

The worst was when a wood chip fell into my glove and stuck into the popped blister. Yeow!!!!

My other hand is a little better but when I was working on the truck yesterday I had some rust shards get under my watch band and chaffed the hell out of my wrist.


----------



## Lowhog

svk said:


> Wow you moved quickly. Remind me where you are relocating to?


Southern Appalachian mountains.


----------



## Lowhog

Tired of this damn heat ,bugs,and Canadian fire smoke. Its so bad I can't breed.


----------



## Multifaceted

Lowhog said:


> I try to limit my carbon footprint in this world but when I compare myself to a millionaire that puts 10,000 gallons of diesel fuel in his yacht once a month I don't feel bad using a chainsaw or power log splitter.



Environmental stewardship is a good thing. No qualms from me, I love my chsinsaws and use them regularly. I also drive A LOT but limit myself to a 4 cyl manual because of gas consumption and a very long work commute. I enjoy using axes because it's the old way, nothing else. While I'm certainly a collector, I'm a user first. It's fun, and it's good excersie... _axercise_....


----------



## svk

Smoke has been intense these last few days. Here’s tonight’s sunset


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> My hands are terrible right now. On my left hand my aunts cat laid me open (he’s a snakey *****) and three of the four canines punctured, then I got a blister from using the rubberized handle on a scissor jack to change a tire in 85 degree heat, finally I got a bad sliver that I didn’t notice until it was infected. And I’ve done three cords of wood in that time and cut a couple more.
> 
> The worst was when a wood chip fell into my glove and stuck into the popped blister. Yeow!!!!
> 
> My other hand is a little better but when I was working on the truck yesterday I had some rust shards get under my watch band and chaffed the hell out of my wrist.



My hands were a mess not long ago too. As much as I pine for winter, the colder months mean cracked skin... so it's whatever.... So long as I have all ten digits, I'm good!


----------



## svk

Multifaceted said:


> My hands were a mess not long ago too. As much as I pine for winter, the colder months mean cracked skin... so it's whatever.... So long as I have all ten digits, I'm good!


When I’ve was between college and work and one other winter when I was waiting for a new job I was an ice fishing fiend. Usually 5-6 days a week. My cuticles were all cracked and raw. And I HATE putting on lotion. I can play in oil and grease all day but I can’t stand that feeling of having lotion on my hands.


----------



## Lowhog

svk said:


> Smoke has been intense these last few days. Here’s tonight’s sunset
> 
> View attachment 668269


Can't tell what you have there in trees.?


----------



## svk

Lowhog said:


> Can't tell what you have there in trees.?


Young aspen and birch. This section was logged in 2005-2006


----------



## svk

Thar she be, my very own Chopper One!


----------



## Philbert

If I had a '_Chopper 1'_, I would want it to be able to do evening traffic reports, help put out forest fires, ferry me to remote lakes, etc.

Philbert


----------



## Lowhog

svk said:


> Thar she be, my very own Chopper One!
> 
> View attachment 668460


Standing your pieces inside a big tire works well with these when splitting.


----------



## svk

I'll get more pics later when I am at my truck. My buddy posted a picture if it with some other stuff he found in a barn and I when I asked if I could buy it he said no, just come get it.

These axes have a large head and thick poll. Must be at least a 5 lb head. 

I do not know how well it will work but frankly wanted one for a conversation piece and this one has a bit of surface rust but is like new otherwise.


----------



## dancan

svk said:


> I'll get more pics later when I am at my truck. My buddy posted a picture if it with some other stuff he found in a barn and I when I asked if I could buy it he said no, just come get it.
> 
> These axes have a large head and thick poll. Must be at least a 5 lb head.
> 
> I do not know how well it will work but frankly wanted one for a conversation piece and this one has a bit of surface rust but is like new otherwise.



I've spotted one at a local market , if I can get it for less than the price of a pack of smokes ... It'll be a wall ornament Lol


----------



## Lowhog

svk said:


> I'll get more pics later when I am at my truck. My buddy posted a picture if it with some other stuff he found in a barn and I when I asked if I could buy it he said no, just come get it.
> 
> These axes have a large head and thick poll. Must be at least a 5 lb head.
> 
> I do not know how well it will work but frankly wanted one for a conversation piece and this one has a bit of surface rust but is like new otherwise.


 I think you will be very pleased with it they are very good splitters. They started manufacturing these again so parts are available on their site.


----------



## svk

Lowhog said:


> I think you will be very pleased with it they are very good splitters. They started manufacturing these again so parts are available on their site.


Cool! I will report on it when I use it. 

I’m curious how long the fingers last before shearing off. 

May have to strip the handle and redo it with a little Watco.


----------



## svk

Sorry no pics, but I split up a tree with my new to me Chopper One axe. 

It was a 14” aspen, pretty easy quarry as far as wood was concerned. 

It worked ok on the upper pieces but when you got down towards the stump it literally would just stop when you got to the “fingers” that should throw the splits to the side. 

Perhaps the Chopper One works in western pine or some other type of wood but if it can’t split Aspen it’s not much good to me. I mean I only wanted it for a conversation piece so I’m still happy I was able to find it.


----------



## Philbert

Ponzi scheme: you have to buy the _Chopper *Two*_ for the bigger pieces!

Philbert


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> Ponzi scheme: you have to buy the _Chopper *Two*_ for the bigger pieces!
> 
> Philbert


Actually I believe that would be a job for the.....ZOGGER 1!


----------



## Lowhog

svk said:


> Sorry no pics, but I split up a tree with my new to me Chopper One axe.
> 
> It was a 14” aspen, pretty easy quarry as far as wood was concerned.
> 
> It worked ok on the upper pieces but when you got down towards the stump it literally would just stop when you got to the “fingers” that should throw the splits to the side.
> 
> Perhaps the Chopper One works in western pine or some other type of wood but if it can’t split Aspen it’s not much good to me. I mean I only wanted it for a conversation piece so I’m still happy I was able to find it.


Try it again when its below zero. I have trouble in any wood when its in the 80's.


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> Actually I believe that would be a job for the.....ZOGGER 1!
> 
> View attachment 669665
> View attachment 669666




Ha ha, that's hilarious! It's that yours?


----------



## flyinfinn

svk said:


> Actually I believe that would be a job for the.....ZOGGER 1!



Oh wow, I gotta see a video of that in action!


----------



## svk

It belongs to @dancan


----------



## dancan

Funny guys lol !
No , it was some guy from Finland that invented it , special steel and ergonomics but then he moved to Georgia after he heard about Oakzilla and was set to have an epic battle


----------



## flyinfinn

dancan said:


> Funny guys lol !
> No , it was some guy from Finland that invented it , special steel and ergonomics but then he moved to Georgia after he heard about Oakzilla and was set to have an epic battle



Please tell me you've used it! Can you take a video? haha


----------



## Lowhog

Any one man crosscut saw users on this thread?


----------



## Lowhog

A new fiskars isocore 8# maul will be here tomorrow. They say its the best we shall see, I'll get back on this.


----------



## dancan

Here's a safety reminder .
One of my B'laws is a 300lb gorilla , he was splitting his firewood sledge and wedge on some gnarly stuff .
He has a 12 lb sledge cut at 18" that he likes , while he was driving the wedge he heard what sounded like a 22 round and then instant pain in the knee .




A trip to the doc and then a trip to the ER .
The ER could see the chip on the Xray but could't remove it so 2 weeks later for a day surgery with a specialist .





He brought them his metal detector and a super magnet because he wanted it out .
I've not seen the wedge in person but from the looks of it I wouldn't have used it from what looks like previous chipping .


----------



## rarefish383

Lowhog said:


> Any one man crosscut saw users on this thread?


"User" is a relative term. I have several, and I have used them, just to see what it's like. I also have one my Dad used back in the 50's-60's, for limbing out big trees. They didn't have any little saws a few years back, and all climbers used big hand saws for limbing. Dad's is hanging on our family room wall. I posted pics not long ago, but it might have been on the ax thread. If you want to see a couple I'll post them again.


----------



## Philbert

dancan said:


> Here's a safety reminder .



We have discussed the need to 'dress' the edges of metal wedges and sledge hammers in several threads.

Thanks for the reminder.




Philbert


----------



## Multifaceted

I've got a few wedges, but I seldom use them. It's not often that I could find the need to use one, if and when that situation presents itself, I'll either noodle it, discard it to the burn pile, or leave it to rot in the woods. Not worth my time and effort striking a few wedges with a hammer, just one more thing I have to schlep over to my work area and pick up when I'm done. If the log doesn't want to split, then the hell with it.


----------



## dancan

Just got off the phone with the B'law , what I thot was a bad wedge was actually his sledge .
Told him to do the Olympic hammer throw with it and get a new one .
He already did .


----------



## Mustang71

My old sledge did that before I over struck the handle and broke it. My dad has a chunk on a chisel in his arm from an exploding swing. 

As for the wedge it serves a good purpose. And I love that final hit when the wedge shoots through the wood like a bullet. If I didn't use a wedge I would throw away a third of my wood. There's still the camp fire pile but a lot of it that wont split "easy" will split with a wedge or a saw cut and a wedge.


----------



## Lowhog

A


Multifaceted said:


> I've got a few wedges, but I seldom use them. It's not often that I could find the need to use one, if and when that situation presents itself, I'll either noodle it, discard it to the burn pile, or leave it to rot in the woods. Not worth my time and effort striking a few wedges with a hammer, just one more thing I have to schlep over to my work area and pick up when I'm done. If the log doesn't want to split, then the hell with it.


Amen!


----------



## Trx250r180

I throw em in a pile ,when gets big enough fire up the hydro splitter


----------



## Cody

Lowhog said:


> A new fiskars isocore 8# maul will be here tomorrow. They say its the best we shall see, I'll get back on this.View attachment 673960



I'd like to hear your evaluation of it, as I'd like to get more into splitting the oak by hand now that I should have more time to enjoy cutting/splitting firewood with as far ahead as I am.


----------



## woodchip rookie

I have the isocore. Unless I get strait grained stuff its the only tool I use. (if I am splitting by hand). It would be better I think if it didn't have such a hollow ground shape to it. It needs to be more wedge shaped than axe shaped. For my size it could be a pound(ish) lighter but it is what it is. I have a cheap Ace Hardware maul that I would like to reshape a little and I think it would be great but I have a hydro now. It doesn't matter what it shaped like a maul wont keep up with a 30T fast cycle hydro splitting 3yrs of wood at a time.


----------



## LondonNeil

Multifaceted said:


> I've got a few wedges, but I seldom use them. It's not often that I could find the need to use one, if and when that situation presents itself, I'll either noodle it, discard it to the burn pile, or leave it to rot in the woods. Not worth my time and effort striking a few wedges with a hammer, just one more thing I have to schlep over to my work area and pick up when I'm done. If the log doesn't want to split, then the hell with it.



Agree, I hate wedges. I will use them occasionally but now I have the 365 I expect I'll use the wedges very rarely.


----------



## woodchip rookie

The 395 makes chunks out of big twisted wood pretty good, but its a gashog and its not a light saw. Only time I really do that is to make chunks smaller just so I can lift them off the ground to get them in the truck.


----------



## Lowhog

Gave the 36" Fiskars iso a try out today in 80 degree heat on 12-16" dia cottonwood. Where my other two mauls wood get stuck or bounce off the cottonwood the iso blasted through like it was nothing. I love the low shock handle on the 63 year old hands. A big thumbs up on this heavy splitting maul. Best price I found was on Amazon at 45.00. I think its available in a 41" handle also.


----------



## svk

Glad to hear it is working as promised.


----------



## Streblerm

I really like the isocore maul. I mostly split with my old fiskars SS but if that won’t get the job done I switch to the isocore. If that doesn’t get it it’s noodling time. 

Sledge and wedge is like some kind of torture. I keep some wedges just in case but I really don’t like to use them.


----------



## LondonNeil

Totally agree Streblerm!


----------



## Lowhog

Love using these tires they keep your pieces grounded.


----------



## Ronaldo

Lowhog said:


> Love using these tires they keep your pieces grounded.View attachment 675605


Do you put the wood in the tire or the tire over the wood......which is less work/time consuming? 

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


----------



## Philbert

Wood in the tire. 

Philbert


----------



## Mustang71

I have seen that method a bunch of times but never tried it. I think you need the right wood for it.


----------



## Philbert

Also good to have a variety of tire sizes.

I like some of the smaller ones, like those off of ATVs and garden tractors. 

Philbert


----------



## Ronaldo

I cant say that I have ever given the tire method an honest test, but it seems to be another step of handling. If I can set my blocks up on end and not have to lift them off the ground and go along splitting them down the line, it seems to be more efficient. I realize that I may need to tip my two halves up to split them one more time each, but I am still not needing to pick them up to set them on a block or in the tire. Thoughts?


----------



## Lowhog

I have a round inside the bottom tire I place the piece I'm splitting on. It keeps the tires in place and raises the piece I'm splitting. Works like a charm.


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## Philbert

If you are not chasing after splits you don't need the tire. If you are it is a good option. Some guys use a bungee cord. 

You can often fit several smaller rounds into a larger tire which save set up time. 

Philbert


----------



## LondonNeil

I tried a bungee, I cut it 3rd swing, oops.


----------



## svk

I think if you are making precise splits like kindling or do all of your wood in one spot the tire is great. I kind of split wherever the wood is so don’t use a tire very much.


----------



## Lowhog

With the fiskar 8 pounder you are chasing splits across the farm without the tires.


----------



## moresnow

Lowhog said:


> I have a round inside the bottom tire I place the piece I'm splitting on. It keeps the tires in place and raises the piece I'm splitting. Works like a charm.



Agreed 100%. For those who have not tried it. You should. I was skeptical initially as well. This flat out works. I have some monster Maple rounds I use to set the tire on (15" rim type minivan tire). Load the tire with as many rounds as you can. Tighter the better. Smack away. Make's my Hydro look stupid slow! 
Occasionally you will need to nudge the tire around on the big round base to keep things squared up. No biggy. Cottonwood and Elm head to my hydro. Everything else would go to the tire. Unless I am lazy!


----------



## Ductape

dancan said:


> Here's a safety reminder .
> One of my B'laws is a 300lb gorilla , he was splitting his firewood sledge and wedge on some gnarly stuff .
> He has a 12 lb sledge cut at 18" that he likes , while he was driving the wedge he heard what sounded like a 22 round and then instant pain in the knee .
> 
> View attachment 674015
> 
> 
> A trip to the doc and then a trip to the ER .
> The ER could see the chip on the Xray but could't remove it so 2 weeks later for a day surgery with a specialist .
> 
> View attachment 674016
> View attachment 674017
> 
> 
> He brought them his metal detector and a super magnet because he wanted it out .
> I've not seen the wedge in person but from the looks of it I wouldn't have used it from what looks like previous chipping .




Good reminder. Years ago I was making some kindling. Without thinking much about it, I used a steel mini-sledge to whack the back of a hatchet to drive it through the wood. Likewise, a piece chipped off of the axe and shot into my thigh (missed my nuggets by 3 inches). Off to the emergency room I went (bled like a mutha). Dr. discovered it was so deep, it would require a 'real surgery' to remove.... so they left it there. Tetanus and a couple other shots later they left the piece of steel in my leg, which is still there today. It sets off metal detectors, including my hand held wand. Stupid mistake and I knew better.


----------



## Multifaceted

Fellas:

Pretty hyped for my recent axe purchase - Russian-made from the Siberian Tiaga - Toporsib Bobr (Бобр) Axe. Total weight is 3.5 lb, hand forged laminated steel, hardened poll, and on a Beech haft that is roughly 26" long. Here are a few pics, and album link posted below...































Album link:
https://imgur.com/a/v06YAnz


----------



## flatbroke

Multifaceted said:


> Fellas:
> 
> Pretty hyped for my recent axe purchase - Russian-made from the Siberian Tiaga - Toporsib Bobr (Бобр) Axe. Total weight is 3.5 lb, hand forged laminated steel, hardened poll, and on a Beech haft that is roughly 26" long. Here are a few pics, and album link posted below...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Album link:
> https://imgur.com/a/v06YAnz


Fine piece of equipment you have there


----------



## LondonNeil

Looks a chopper not a slpitter. Do you think you'll do the cord wood challenge again next year and give it some action?


----------



## Multifaceted

LondonNeil said:


> Looks a chopper not a slpitter. Do you think you'll do the cord wood challenge again next year and give it some action?



I'll try again next year. I was nearly completed one rick, then in July I tore my ACL, so that put my plans on completing to an end, unfortunately. On the bright side, I'm recovering very well - and quickly. I can swing axes now, I just need to be careful with my footing.

Today I got home a little early from work with about 45 minutes of daylight remaining, so I decided to take the Toprsib axe out and put it to the test. Here is an album with some commentary:

http://imgur.com/a/uhIyfW9


----------



## 95custmz

Beautiful axe. Looks to be nice quality. [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Multifaceted

95custmz said:


> Beautiful axe. Looks to be nice quality. [emoji106]
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks! From a brief use and review, I'm inclined to say it's a wood destroyer. The cutting ability is impressive for such a light axe. The haft needs to be thinned out considerably, that is first order of business. Other than that, I really like so far. Can't wait to use it again.


----------



## rarefish383

Looks like it will throw well!


----------



## johnnylabguy

Hi guys and Merry Christmas. It’s been awhile for me on the thread but i still love the input. I’m happy to report that my fiskars x27 and and isocore gets 90% of my wood split. I keep the speeco 22 ton around for the uglies though. I loaned it out to a 60 yr old buddy for his new boiler and he must have liked it enough. His kids bought him a new one for Christmas



He said he’d bring mine back shortly. Other than putting my kids to work with it during Christmas break I wouldn’t care. The Isocore and x27 splits my dead ash faster! I wouldn’t loan him those two tools! Maybe I’ll get him the light x27 for Christmas next year for his easy splitting ash and he’ll see the light too. Until then he and my brothers will think I’m a crazy Neanderthal torture freak splitting by hand. Straight grained wood with a light splitting axe is so much easier!


----------



## Multifaceted

Multifaceted said:


> I'll try again next year. I was nearly completed one rick, then in July I tore my ACL, so that put my plans on completing to an end, unfortunately. On the bright side, I'm recovering very well - and quickly. I can swing axes now, I just need to be careful with my footing.
> 
> Today I got home a little early from work with about 45 minutes of daylight remaining, so I decided to take the Toprsib axe out and put it to the test. Here is an album with some commentary:
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/uhIyfW9





rarefish383 said:


> Looks like it will throw well!



Ha ha, not going to try on this one, not at least without proper backing. I thinned the handle out considerable, but prior to that I gave it my best with a mixed variety of woods. In case no one saw the link I posted, here are the pics with captions:


Here is a fairly large round, maybe 22" wide from a long standing dead Ash tree. This round was giving me some trouble with my 4.5 lb splitting axe, so I left it to be noodled with a chainsaw. Sometimes dead ash can be very, very hard. This wasn't too bad, but the grain was twisty as it was near the base of the stump. The axe chops beyond its light weight, and throws some nice chips. The head balance is a little different than what I'm used to, slight forward bias, but when you get the hang of it feels like a laser. I was not really leaning into it very hard as I'm trying to keep a sure footing with my recovering knee.






It throws some nice sized chips for its size, quite impressed. I cannot wait to see how well it performs when I can stand atop the log and buck it with some quicker swings and snaps. This was the same dead Ash log.





The softest wood in my log pile is what I believe to be Silver Maple, definitely a maple, but a soft one. Just look at those deep cuts, and this was some fairly light swings.





After the above shot, and severed the remaining limb in one final swipe, look at how clean the cut.





Moving on to some more challenging media, here we have some Black Locust logs that were sitting dead on the ground for maybe 3-4 years, as evidenced by the bark being sloughed off. Black Locust is one of the hardest woods in North America, certainly the hardest wood within a hundred miles from me. This type of wood quickly dulls my chainsaw chains. The chopping was a little harder due to the higher density of the wood, but it seemed to cut through it relative well. Noticeably better than some of my other small axes. I wish I had a better way to secure the log before chopping as it was dancing around in the pile. In my current state, I felt this was the safest way.





Not bad!





Now on to some splitting. Ash, Ash, Ash... it's everywhere! It's probably 60-70% of what we burn for heat, because it is all dying from the EAB. I selected a somewhat tallish round, roughly 8" or so in diameter. Ash typically splits easily, but it can be twisty and gnarly too, so sometimes it'll surprise you...





First strike was off center (to the right) but bit well. The second strike was on-target and definitely opened up the round. Admittedly, I was being mindful not to scrape it through the splits and damage the wood. I have collar guards on my splitting axes, but not on my brand new Russian Axe. In retrospect, that was probably premature because the handle is definitely too thick and I will need to thin the wood down.





Like I mentioned above, I decided not to tempt fate and damage the wood on my brand new axe, so I turned the round on it's side and delivered the final blow.





This was three cautious strikes from a guy with a gimpy knee. Overall impressions: Very impressed at the cutting ability of the bit geometry. The head balance will take some getting used to, but I think I can adapt easily with extended use. The haft is TOO DAMN THICK - that will need to be corrected immediately. Bucking that big Ash log I felt I was more grappling the haft rather then let it pivot in my grip, which is typically how I chop with my custom tuned slim tapered hafts. I'll probably make a collar guard for it as well, as I feel that I will really be using this more in the future. The length feels good, the weight is a little on the light side, but with the cutting power I don't see that as a disadvantage. That's all for now, with my quick 30 minute field review. Thanks for looking and reading, hope this helps any potential buyers. Cheers!


----------



## Wild Willy

Ronaldo said:


> Do you put the wood in the tire or the tire over the wood......which is less work/time consuming?
> 
> Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


I've seen the tire trick -- it's slick, but I use a the same setup my grandad and pop used. Arrange four bales of dry junk hay, stacked two tall with stems down, around the splitting block, in a V shape. For big stuff that will need multiple splits, orient the checks perpendicular to the V notch and swing toward the notch -- both halves stay in place the vast majority of time. For smaller stuff that just needs to be split in two, shift yourself parallel to the left (or right) leg of the V -- the first piece falls off the open side (toward the woodpile), and the other piece stays on the block to grab and pitch toward the pile. I offset one of the top bales to provide a little shelf for the maul (Helko Werk Vario 2000) or kindling axe (vintage Mann double-bit, my grandad's axe). Wedges and a 6-lb. cross peen sit on top of the bale wall just in case I need to free the maul, which is rare. I have a one-bushel washtub on the other side of the hay "wall" to toss in chips and bark and etc. from the top of the block. As a kid, I'd help set up the chopping block every year with fresh bales; I now chop inside the woodshed, and the hay bales usually last a couple of years before I use them for garden mulch and replace with some newer, tighter bales. I suppose a couple of pallets and T-posts could work just as well.


----------



## motolife313

That’s a nice looking axe! Did some splitting on some Fir. Cut it too 20” long on accident. Busted out the sledge hammer. Got it after 1 or 2 swings. I’ve had some oak way smaller that’s didn’t come apart after 50 swings with 2 wedges. I let it sit over night 


last couple pics are the oak. They were cut short at 1’. It was 20-22” diameter.


----------



## svk

Alright, someone needs to try this.


----------



## Philbert

Much different than this?




Philbert


----------



## Deleted member 150358

svk said:


> Alright, someone needs to try this.



Put an electric or air post driver on!


----------



## Marine5068

Kind


Multifaceted said:


> Ha ha, not going to try on this one, not at least without proper backing. I thinned the handle out considerable, but prior to that I gave it my best with a mixed variety of woods. In case no one saw the link I posted, here are the pics with captions:
> 
> 
> Here is a fairly large round, maybe 22" wide from a long standing dead Ash tree. This round was giving me some trouble with my 4.5 lb splitting axe, so I left it to be noodled with a chainsaw. Sometimes dead ash can be very, very hard. This wasn't too bad, but the grain was twisty as it was near the base of the stump. The axe chops beyond its light weight, and throws some nice chips. The head balance is a little different than what I'm used to, slight forward bias, but when you get the hang of it feels like a laser. I was not really leaning into it very hard as I'm trying to keep a sure footing with my recovering knee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It throws some nice sized chips for its size, quite impressed. I cannot wait to see how well it performs when I can stand atop the log and buck it with some quicker swings and snaps. This was the same dead Ash log.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The softest wood in my log pile is what I believe to be Silver Maple, definitely a maple, but a soft one. Just look at those deep cuts, and this was some fairly light swings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the above shot, and severed the remaining limb in one final swipe, look at how clean the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moving on to some more challenging media, here we have some Black Locust logs that were sitting dead on the ground for maybe 3-4 years, as evidenced by the bark being sloughed off. Black Locust is one of the hardest woods in North America, certainly the hardest wood within a hundred miles from me. This type of wood quickly dulls my chainsaw chains. The chopping was a little harder due to the higher density of the wood, but it seemed to cut through it relative well. Noticeably better than some of my other small axes. I wish I had a better way to secure the log before chopping as it was dancing around in the pile. In my current state, I felt this was the safest way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to some splitting. Ash, Ash, Ash... it's everywhere! It's probably 60-70% of what we burn for heat, because it is all dying from the EAB. I selected a somewhat tallish round, roughly 8" or so in diameter. Ash typically splits easily, but it can be twisty and gnarly too, so sometimes it'll surprise you...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First strike was off center (to the right) but bit well. The second strike was on-target and definitely opened up the round. Admittedly, I was being mindful not to scrape it through the splits and damage the wood. I have collar guards on my splitting axes, but not on my brand new Russian Axe. In retrospect, that was probably premature because the handle is definitely too thick and I will need to thin the wood down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I mentioned above, I decided not to tempt fate and damage the wood on my brand new axe, so I turned the round on it's side and delivered the final blow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was three cautious strikes from a guy with a gimpy knee. Overall impressions: Very impressed at the cutting ability of the bit geometry. The head balance will take some getting used to, but I think I can adapt easily with extended use. The haft is TOO DAMN THICK - that will need to be corrected immediately. Bucking that big Ash log I felt I was more grappling the haft rather then let it pivot in my grip, which is typically how I chop with my custom tuned slim tapered hafts. I'll probably make a collar guard for it as well, as I feel that I will really be using this more in the future. The length feels good, the weight is a little on the light side, but with the cutting power I don't see that as a disadvantage. That's all for now, with my quick 30 minute field review. Thanks for looking and reading, hope this helps any potential buyers. Cheers!


It kind of looks like one of my ancestors weapons.
The Tomahawk
Sure does damage to that Ash.
Looks so nice too.
Do you have a nice spot to display all of your axes/hatchets?


----------



## svk

Philbert said:


> Much different than this?
> 
> View attachment 762393
> 
> 
> Philbert


Yeah, yours doesn't come with a cool sounding russian guy


----------



## woodchip rookie

Ill take my hydro over that any day


----------



## Multifaceted

Marine5068 said:


> Kind
> 
> It kind of looks like one of my ancestors weapons.
> The Tomahawk
> Sure does damage to that Ash.
> Looks so nice too.
> Do you have a nice spot to display all of your axes/hatchets?



I have a rack to store them either hung by the head or upside down from hook on a lanyard. Not much of a display, but it keeps them all in one place with a relatively small footprint. I have a strict 'No Wall-Hanger' rule so anything that would be on display goes against my very core principal of utility, in my head it does at least...


----------



## rarefish383

Well, I get your point. But, it's kind of like my saws. I get a new one and use it for a while, then get another new one and put the old one on the shelf or rack. The plan is use each one, then start over when I get to the end of the shelf. Only problem is by the time I get to the end of the shelf, I've built a new shelf and it's half full. So, I don't have shelf queens, but I do have a bunch of shelf refugees.


----------



## Multifaceted

So long as they are used. I don't judge people on their collections (maybe have an opinion or two), but it's just a personal thing for me. I'm wierd. If I'm going to spend money on a tool, be it new or old, then spend time either tuning it or restoring it to my liking, then you better damn well know that I'll at least put it under load a few times a year. My saw collection grows too, and I'm approaching the same predicament... Frequency of use. It's like my gun cabinet, no safe queens. All are tried and ready shooters. My saw shelf and axe rack are treated in the same manner.

I know of a few guys who have tens of thousands of dollars in Paul Reed Smith guitars, and never play them. Okay, yes, they're collectable, but to me as a player, that is just the dumbest thing to spend money on — something you can use, but don't. Again, maybe I'm just a freak, ha ha...


----------



## Mike Burke

I'm new here but thought I would share my experience with some splitting tools that I have been using.
I am 6' 175lb with long arms.

I've been splitting some Ash and Oak. I had been using a 6lb Collins slitting maul and that got old real quick.
So started searching and asking here for suggestions for a New tool. Read a lot about the Fiskars, Husqvarnas, length of handle and weight.
I pulled the trigger on the X27 because it was on sale and All the great reviews and talk about the handle Length debate.

I used it for a couple days and it split real good. I was impressed with the splitting power and the weight difference of my 6lb maul. 
The long handle was kind of a issue for me though. It was hard to get moved from one side of my body to the other...form my right hand to my left....in front of me , if that makes sense.

I started using my Woodland Pro 4Lb 28" handle fellers axe to split some smaller stuff and liked the length so....

I went and bought the X25
and got a spare tire for my splitting platform. Its a 4x4 platform about 24 x 24 and sits on the ground.

The Fiskars X25 is a WINNER for me.
I really like the length..its easy to move in front of my body from side to side and switching hands. The curve on the end of the handle is always right where I need 
to grab it and pick it up.
The accuracy is a lot better for me also.
I am more productive with the shorter handle and I don't feel there is any safety issue with the 28" handle for me.

As far as my splitting power
for really large rounds I have reached for the 27 just to get it broke apart and then grab the 25 to split it up.
I can tell the 27 has more head speed producing more power and it certainly has a spot in the process but.....I really like the X25 
Its just easier to use for me which makes me more productive splitting.


----------



## Ronaldo

I actually prefer my shorter X25 over the X27 for most splitting also. Use em both but really like the 25 for most.


----------



## svk

(I know, I’m like a broken record about splitting tools) But I prefer the X25 above all other splitting axes. The S2800 does have a lot more power than the X-25 or X-27 but it’s nit as smooth and effortless to swing as the 25. The 27 handle is too long for me but it’s still a great tool.


----------



## Multifaceted

Long handle for a tall guy is old tired dogma. So is long handle for splitting on the ground, shorter for on a block.

I'm 6', 2" 195 lbs - and will swing a 28" axe over most anything else to split. I have a Fiskars x27 or "Super Splitting Axe" as it sometimes called, picked it up because Walmart had them on clearance for $20 about a month ago. It's definitely a great tool, good geometry, but it's just a tad too heavy and way too long for my workflow and actually slows me down. A shorter handle gives me the agility and up close and personal maneuverability that allows me to work quickly in a big pile, the shorter handle and moderate weight affords me increased head speed to whip the head quickly into the round with added velocity.

Anytime someone says "why not just get a maul?", I tell them to come look at my stacks and tell me what I'm doing wrong...


----------



## moresnow

@Mike Burke where are you in Iowa? 

You cant go wrong with your Fiskars. I have 2 27's and a 25. As well as a hatchet. All work great.

Nice 'eye by the way.


----------



## T O Double D

I bought a WoodlandPro Fallers Axe and when it arrived the head wasn’t just loose it comes off...




The grain on the handle is as good as you could hope for on a mass produced axe. I was thinking of keeping this one and fixing it instead of sending it back. I’ve never done this with an axe, but have with my framing hammer. The wedge is completely different than I’m used to. It’s metal and attached to the head...




Also the handle to eye fit doesn’t look great. It seems to much material was removed from the middle (to accommodate the wedge) and it’s far from tight inside the eye with several gaps. 




The shoulder is preventing the head from going down further. I was thinking of taking a rasp to the shoulder, sanding the whole thing down, soaking it in oil, then pounding the head down further. Given the loose fit do you think that would work or just send it back and hope for a better one?


----------



## svk

That’s interesting. I personally would repair it if the grain is good as if they send you a replacement you could get one that’s worse. But that wedge is strange. Is that welded or just mushroomed from force fit?


----------



## T O Double D

svk said:


> That’s interesting. I personally would repair it if the grain is good as if they send you a replacement you could get one that’s worse. But that wedge is strange. Is that welded or just mushroomed from force fit?



Its hard to tell, but I'm pretty sure its just force fit.


----------



## Philbert

T O Double D said:


> I bought a WoodlandPro Fallers Axe and when it arrived the head wasn’t just loose it comes off...


I bought one more than a year ago. Head came loose after some serious wedge pounding (it is a faller's axe after all). Bailey's sent me a replacement. 

The metal wedge appears to be separate from the head, just jammed in really tight, then the painted the head after.

If you are in 'Central California', maybe take it back to them and visit the store?

Philbert


----------



## T O Double D

Philbert said:


> I bought one more than a year ago. Head came loose after some serious wedge pounding (it is a faller's axe after all). Bailey's sent me a replacement.
> 
> The metal wedge appears to be separate from the head, just jammed in really tight, then the painted the head after.
> 
> If you are in 'Central California', maybe take it back to them and visit the store?
> 
> Philbert




I actually saw your post on that and it was the reason I checked the head before swinging it. Has the new one been holding up? 

And yes, I've thought about asking if I could stop by and pick one myself. Its a little out of the way, but I've got a job coming up that's near-ish to them.


----------



## Philbert

I have not had the opportunity to use it in that way since then. I am usually using equipment that belongs to one of my volunteer groups. 

It still seems like a good value, for the price and quality of construction. My biggest peeve about it is that the edge was hardly sharpened at all, and will take some work to use for chopping as well as for wedge driving. 

Personally, I have enjoyed finding '_excuses_' to visit vendors like Bailey's, Madsen's, etc., when anywhere 'in the neighborhood'. I like to have that picture in my mind, when ordering from them. Plus it is fun and interesting. 

I have also enjoyed dropping by the retail saw shops of other A.S. sponsors and members if I 'know' of them online, and plan on being in, or passing through, the area. 

Philbert


----------



## AmateurSawer

I ordered a 5lb miner's axe this fall.Haven't used it yet waiting on the treatment to get into the handle well.
I ought it for an axe to go along on wood cutting adventures and to use on the farm.Since I'll be driving felling wedges with it and won't be doing a lot full swing chopping,I decided to try the shorter axe. Plus,this was a way to get a 5lb head which I like.I have a 4lb. CT dayton pattern but it feels so light in my hands after splitting my wood with 8lb mauls.No doubt it would make a good chopper should I need to do that.


----------



## MechanicMatt

Was watching a video about firewood and they had a short bit about the splitting tools. I saw all the regular ones and then the one all the way to the left caught my eye..... anybody else see what I see?


----------



## 95custmz

? It's got a handle protector for over-strikes.


----------



## MechanicMatt

I’m gonna wait for SVK to comment first...


----------



## Multifaceted

MechanicMatt said:


> Was watching a video about firewood and they had a short bit about the splitting tools. I saw all the regular ones and then the one all the way to the left caught my eye..... anybody else see what I see?



Don't mention his name, country of origin, or the tool itself otherwise he'll appear in the mirror and murder you on the toilet whilst giving a sales pitch...


----------



## MechanicMatt

I’m literally dying laughing right now


----------



## 95custmz

Multifaceted said:


> Don't mention his name, country of origin, or the tool itself otherwise he'll appear in the mirror and murder you on the toilet whilst giving a sales pitch...


----------



## svk

@ Finland


----------



## Philbert

MechanicMatt said:


> Was watching a video about firewood and they had a short bit about the splitting tools...... anybody else see what I see?


Have held that in my hands - think I have had headaches that split better . . . .

Philbert


----------



## LondonNeil

L e v e r ....


----------



## watchamakalit

LondonNeil said:


> L e v e r ....


We Better just "axe" that conversation before it starts.....

Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk


----------



## svk

MechanicMatt said:


> I’m literally dying laughing right now


Me too lmfao


----------



## MechanicMatt

Philbert said:


> Have held that in my hands - think I have had headaches that split better . . . .
> 
> Philbert


Once upon a time, it was mailed to me. Had all my firewood burning pals give it a go. We all had a similar conclusion


----------



## svk

Yes but it did shut ctyank up


----------



## MechanicMatt

Ohh yeah, what ever happened to your BFF?


----------



## svk

MechanicMatt said:


> Ohh yeah, what ever happened to your BFF?


He hasn’t been around here for quite some time. For a short time he was an expert at milling and finally faded away. Can’t say I miss him.

I see he still frequents the groupie site but doesn’t have much to say. Which is interesting as he doesn’t believe in ported saws.


----------



## svk

Did we know that Truper now produces Leveraxe?


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> Did we know that Truper now produces Leveraxe?



!!!

The wood in the video is consistent with what other have noted that it is good with. Not splitting any gnarly rounds.

Philbert


----------



## svk

Right....also might explain why our friend hasn't been seen around these parts in many months.


----------



## LondonNeil

Nooooo! you said the BAD WORD!


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> Nooooo! you said the BAD WORD!


LMFAO!

I know how you and @Multifaceted love to hear from him LOL LOL LOL


----------



## MechanicMatt

Sold out and made BANK, just shows you..... big companies will buy crappy designs all the time! And I mean CRAPPY!!!


----------



## Mustang71

MechanicMatt said:


> Sold out and made BANK, just shows you..... big companies will buy crappy designs all the time! And I mean CRAPPY!!!



See that where Walmart is different they will steal your design and then change the smallest thing and sell it for less that way they dont have to pay. Damn ozark hatchet has been great.


----------



## SS396driver

Lowes is clearencing them for 12.99 . Never saw it before but thought the handle was nice for the price . But walked away


----------



## Philbert

For $12.99 I would be tempted to buy one just for a door prize at a GTG. 

Philbert


----------



## SS396driver

Philbert said:


> For $12.99 I would be tempted to buy one just for a door prize at a GTG.
> 
> Philbert


I could go back to lowes . They had 5 on the rack


----------



## MechanicMatt

Which Lowe’s?? Middletown?


----------



## SS396driver

MechanicMatt said:


> Which Lowe’s?? Middletown?


Lloyd AKA New paltz on 299


----------



## Philbert

SS396driver said:


> Lowes is clearencing them for 12.99 .


Checked my local Lowes. None. Store employees were not familiar with it, but we found it in their computer. *Item # 797887 *. 
$49.98 on the website, but $12.50 in their computer.




Philbert


----------



## Mustang71

Philbert said:


> Checked my local Lowes. None. Store employees were not familiar with it, but we found it in their computer. *Item # 797887 *.
> $49.98 on the website, but $12.50 in their computer.
> 
> View attachment 795868
> 
> 
> Philbert




They weren't familiar with it? The girl at home depot tried to charge me 362$ for 20 firing strips yesterday and didnt blink an eye. She was confused when I refused to pay...they are idiots at those stores.


----------



## Philbert

Mustang71 said:


> They weren't familiar with it?


Showed them a photo on my phone. Got the Item number to look up on their computer. Fortunately, I did not have to try and explain it.

Philbert


----------



## svk

LEVERAXE LEVERAXE LEVERAXE


----------



## svk




----------



## H-Ranch

svk said:


> LEVERAXE LEVERAXE LEVERAXE


Fanboy


----------



## svk

If he doesn’t show now, he definitely died


----------



## Philbert

I just showed a 'CAPTCHA' of it. You said the word!

Philbert


----------



## Multifaceted

svk said:


> LMFAO!
> 
> I know how you and @Multifaceted love to hear from him LOL LOL LOL



I didn't really mind, but the broken record elevator sales pitch just got so tiresome. I'm sure it works well in a particular situation, but I just don't split wood that way. A tire and block, straight grained wood only... it's just not realistic for me. I split in a big pile berserker style...


----------



## TheDarkLordChinChin

This is an old Hults Bruk axe that I have had for years. Cant remember where it came from. I think its some sort of chopping axe, probably 2kg head on it.
I really need to find a new haft for it.






This is another Hults Bruk axe. This is the 1750 gram chopping axe. It can split small rounds but it get stuck too easily in bigger stuff.


----------



## svk

After many many cords split on the ground, the S2800 needed a little attention. I used a raker file to remove the burs. When I get it back to the house I’ll use the grinder to put a sharp edge back on it.

Still one of the best splitting tools I’ve ever used.


----------



## Mustang71

svk said:


> After many many cords split on the ground, the S2800 needed a little attention. I used a raker file to remove the burs. When I get it back to the house I’ll use the grinder to put a sharp edge back on it.
> 
> Still one of the best splitting tools I’ve ever used.
> View attachment 830837
> View attachment 830838



Ouch. I started splitting on a pile of plywood for that reason. Anyways I agree that a good axe is the best splitting tool. Now that I have a pto drive splitter I still split with the x27 unless it's a bigger round. 1 swing from a good axe in straight wood works great.


----------



## rarefish383

I seldom use axes any more, unless I’m playing with a new one. New to me that is. My favorite is a 4 pound Jersey.


----------



## Iowawoodguy

I just bought a Stihl Pro Splitting Maul today. I'm used to the hydraulic splitter so I'll have to learn to use it and get good with it before I give an update.


----------



## LondonNeil

I've one of those. Or actually from the product number mine may be the cleaving hammer but I can't see the difference. At 8lb it's too heavy for extended use and mostly overkill. I fiskar my way through the pile and then now and again when I've a few pieces that I can't fiskar I fetch the stihl pro. It's a bludgeon that will smash through stuff the x27 just can't. However I still find some stuff is beyond it and gets put aside to curb up. It's a well made tool though, and is a useful part of my set up.


----------



## Iowawoodguy

LondonNeil said:


> I've one of those. Or actually from the product number mine may be the cleaving hammer but I can't see the difference. At 8lb it's too heavy for extended use and mostly overkill. I fiskar my way through the pile and then now and again when I've a few pieces that I can't fiskar I fetch the stihl pro. It's a bludgeon that will smash through stuff the x27 just can't. However I still find some stuff is beyond it and gets put aside to curb up. It's a well made tool though, and is a useful part of my set up.


The one I got is 6.6 lbs. I believe the x27 is just under 6 lbs. I would've gotten the fiskars if it was available near me but I couldn't find it. So far it has been working better than the old cheap one behind it in the picture. Its quicker than the hydraulic splitter but the temps are in the 90s all week so I'll be using the splitter while it's hot. I need to work on my technique but at the end of the day it was a good purchase.


----------



## LondonNeil

that's smaller. check posts #1044 and #1183 for an explanation and photos of mine. mine has a 3.5 marking on the head - 3.5Kg or 7.7Lb.


----------



## LondonNeil

Who's got a Hultafors Agdor splitting maul? @dancan ? IIRC you have one of the Sweedish mauls, is it the agdor per chance? this one here https://www.woodsmithexperience.co....ity Swedish,from selected oiled prime hickory.

Just asking as my quest for handles of the straight kind, and less than silly money, has found this https://woodsmithexperience.co.uk/shop/product/handle-hultafors-agdor-splitting-maul-2-500g/ now it seems wrong tbh, 18 quid for a smedberg handle.... especially when I can't see how its ny differnt from the Hult splitting axe handle here https://woodsmithexperience.co.uk/shop/product/handle-hultafors-hult-splitting-axe/ except its half the price.....and actually I've a feeling he Agdor length quoted is wrong but i digres. Anyway, if anybody with the Agdor could check a few measurements for me? is the eye actually 54mm x 25mm ( about 2 5/32" x1" in old money), and how tall/deep is the axe head? Or rather, how much haft is there from top down to where it starts to taper? Just trying to check the handle could be made to fit an axe head before i buy it. thank you!


----------



## dancan

I tried to get the Hultafors but got the Husqvarna .
Should be the same so I'll try and get a measure on it by the weekend .


----------



## svk

When I saw zogger this weekend he gave me his Fiskars “Super Splitting Axe” which is the predecessor to the X-27. Some have said they feel this is a superior tool to the newer X series. I’ll polish up those cheeks and give it a go soon.


----------



## LondonNeil

I know this is a whole can of worms but I'm going there.... is it actually any different to the x27? you have a x25 don't you? so maybe can't put the 2 beside each other, eyeball, measure, weigh etc. but I'm not sure there are any differences, other thn at times its had an all black handle, and at times the head has had ptfe coating (which soon wore off).


----------



## Ronaldo

The head size/design is actually different on the original Fiskars splitting axe. The 25 and 27 head are the same, just handle length diffetences.

Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk


----------



## svk

Ron is correct. The SSA head is longer, thinner, and I believe heavier than the head shared by the X25 and 27. IIRC the SSA handle is a bit longer than the 25 and quite a bit shorter than the 27.


----------



## Philbert

LondonNeil said:


> I know this is a whole can of worms but I'm going there.... is it actually any different to the x27? you have a x25 don't you? so maybe can't put the 2 beside each other, eyeball, measure, weigh etc. but I'm not sure there are any differences, other thn at times its had an all black handle, and at times the head has had ptfe coating (which soon wore off).


I_ think_ that 'someone' did that once. Can't remember who, but seemed like quite a smart fella . . . 







Fiskars 28" and 36" Side-By-Side Comparison


I know - Just what we need: another Fiskars thread! Part 1 - (Mostly) Objective Comparison I have an older (2+ years) version of the Fiskars Super Splitter Axe, which I really like, but believe that it is different from the newer, X-25 model. I laid it out side by side with a new Fiskars X-27...




www.arboristsite.com






Philbert


----------



## Philbert

Ronaldo said:


> The head size/design is actually different on the original Fiskars splitting axe.





svk said:


> The SSA head is longer, thinner, and I believe heavier than the head shared by the X25 and 27.


There have been so many variations of these, plus the Gerber versions, etc., that it is hard to keep track.
The selection (and names) keep changing. Might be different models available in different countries / markets too:



https://www.fiskars.com/en-us/gardening-and-yard-care/products/axes-mauls-and-machetes



Philbert


----------



## LondonNeil

A very smart fella!


----------



## svk

LondonNeil said:


> A very smart fella!


Handsome too


----------



## svk

You know @Philbert, you and @muddstopper should get together sometime. Except for the lack of beard, Bill could definitely pass as your brother.


----------



## Philbert

svk said:


> You know @Philbert, you and @muddstopper should get together sometime. Except for the lack of beard, Bill could definitely pass as your brother.


I was driving down the street today and swear I saw myself walking down the sidewalk. Babies all kind of look alike, and old guys tend to also.

Philbert


----------



## Huskybill

When I first started doing firewood I split my first 20 cords by hand with a sears 6lb maul. Then I built my first log splitter. I lasted for many decades. My second splitter had a 5”x24” cylinder with 10” H beam. With a hydraulic grapple crane. Sold it, too heavy to move it. Now I need something small for around the house. Something electric/hydraulic? Who makes the best one? Just something above a maul. Lol


----------



## svk

We are going to have a little shootout here this morning. X-25 vs the original Super Splitter


----------



## Huskybill

I purchased many snap on dead blow plastic hammers. I gave my sons some too. My cracked and my sons did too all the same week. I wonder how long my fishers will last.


----------



## svk

As I referenced in the scrounging thread, I’m very pleased with how the Fiskars Super Splitting Axe performs. Hits with a lot more authority than the X-25. Top view of the heads for reference, X-25 on left and SSA on right. FWIW the X-25 and X-27 use the same head.


----------



## pdelosh

Huskybill said:


> When I first started doing firewood I split my first 20 cords by hand with a sears 6lb maul. Then I built my first log splitter. I lasted for many decades. My second splitter had a 5”x24” cylinder with 10” H beam. With a hydraulic grapple crane. Sold it, too heavy to move it. Now I need something small for around the house. Something electric/hydraulic? Who makes the best one? Just something above a maul. Lol


I got rid of my full beam splitter for the same reason and pick up the 1/2 beam cub cadet w/honda engine. I can move it around the yard myself with no problem.


----------



## LondonNeil

This looks interesting....really interesting. I'm tempted to try it, although at £105 delivered its really not cheap. anybody got thoughts?








Japanese Splitting Axe


Buy Japanese Splitting Axe at Workshop Heaven. Friendly service. Useful advice. Next day delivery option. Lifetime guarantee.




www.workshopheaven.com





I happened across it when I was checking the cost of a gransfors maul after I saw one on ebay... rrp for those £150, current bid on the enbay one, £90+10. tempting to stick little go in on that but not if i try the japanese axe


----------



## Whiskey_Bravo

The IsoCore Pro mauls are excellent. Very well balanced and the shock reduction is incredible. I can easily swing the maul and then reset without having to change my grip at all. It was like cheating splitting this red oak with it.

I wrote a full review of this line of mauls here.


----------



## Philbert

Also, very _P-R-E-T-T-Y !_

Philbert


----------



## svk

8LB Isocore is definitely the real deal. The Mike Alstott of splitting tools.


----------



## cheeves

spike60 said:


> This idea came up in CTYank's council tool thread, so I thought I'd kick it off. Thought is that each of us comment on the tools that we actually own and use. Pics if possible. Just share our personal opinions about what we like and don't like. Two suggestions that we ought to stick to so that this doesn't devolve into unnecessary arguments as has happened in a few other threads. Let's try and stick to talking about our own tools. Everyone is entitled to their own viewpoint about their own tools, so lets have none of that crap where guys step in and criticize people for thinking differently than they would. Let's keep it informative, constructive and friendly, OK?
> 
> So, here's my fleet of tools. 6lb. Yellow handle maul by Collins Axe. Second is a 6.5lb Total brand maul from Tilton. 5lb Husky splitting axe, Couple of old 3.5-4lb axes, and a couple of 3lb short handle axes, one Husky, one Collins.
> 
> Looking at the 2 mauls first. The Collins has a head similar to the council tool. Good and consistent taper. It came with the same 1/8 inch back shoulder that is on the councils, and I put the edge on it. The Total has a new idea type head that I'm not real fond of. It's taper makes a kind of abrupt transition from "not enough" to "too much". More prone to getting stuck than the Collins. When it splits, that abrupt change really shoots the two splits apart. They just fly in either direction farther than they need to. (insert ankle joke here). I do like the handle on the total as I prefer a flatter axe type handle vs the rounder sledge type. I'm just more accurate with a flatter handle. Used both of them last weekend on some large ash rounds. 20+ inches. Needed to half or quarter them to carry them to the truck. The Collins was a clear winner here. There were a couple that were ignoring the Total, but gave it up to the Collins. On smaller stuff, either did the job. Prices for both are in the 30-35 range.
> 
> I'll do the axes in the next post.


SPIKE REMEMBER " THE HUMAN SPLITTING MACHINE"? I THINK HIS NAME WAS CHARLIE MOORE. GUY WAS INCREDBLE. BEING A BLACKSMITH BY TRADE HE INVENTED HIS OWN MAUL. IF YOU ASK ME I THINK FISKARS COPIED IT WITH THEIR X25 AND X27. HIS MAUL WAS RELATIVELY LIGHT ..SHAPED LIKE AN A WITH A 1" PLATE WELDED TO THE BACK FOR WEIGHT. MY OLD 6LB STANLEY WAS VERY SIMILAR. HAVE ANOTHER BUT ITS JUST NOT THE SAME!


----------



## Jere39

Probably asked and answered before. But, maybe the products have changed enough to warrant a fresh discussion. How do you compare the Fiskars x27 to the Fiskars Isocore maul. I split between 12-16 cord of straight grained red oak per year, and have found the x27 a perfect weight for hours of swinging for this mature, retired outdoorsman. In every tree there are a couple pieces where the main limbs branch out from the trunk that I might typically noodle, and once the rounds get too big for me to lift, I'll pop them in half (or even quarters) with an old sacrificial hardware store maul on the ground. But 95%+ of my splitting is on a small block and with the x27. Should I be considering adding an Isocore to my equipment shed?


----------



## Philbert

Jere39 said:


> Should I be considering adding an Isocore to my equipment shed?


Do it just so that you can report back to us!

Philbert


----------



## LondonNeil

I think not. What it adds is some ability to smash the major knots apart, or halve the big rounds, but you'll still need to noodle some. I have the Stihl/oschenkopf 8lb maul not the isocore but it'll be the same, too heavy for extended use, more capable then the x27, but still not a power tool.
If you are happy noodling, save your money for something else.


----------



## svk

Jere39 said:


> Probably asked and answered before. But, maybe the products have changed enough to warrant a fresh discussion. How do you compare the Fiskars x27 to the Fiskars Isocore maul. I split between 12-16 cord of straight grained red oak per year, and have found the x27 a perfect weight for hours of swinging for this mature, retired outdoorsman. In every tree there are a couple pieces where the main limbs branch out from the trunk that I might typically noodle, and once the rounds get too big for me to lift, I'll pop them in half (or even quarters) with an old sacrificial hardware store maul on the ground. But 95%+ of my splitting is on a small block and with the x27. Should I be considering adding an Isocore to my equipment shed?
> 
> View attachment 872834


Isocore a a great tool for splitting the more difficult pieces. I now have two and wouldn’t hesitate to buy another if something happened to the ones I have.


----------



## Brushwacker

Jere39 said:


> Probably asked and answered before. But, maybe the products have changed enough to warrant a fresh discussion. How do you compare the Fiskars x27 to the Fiskars Isocore maul. I split between 12-16 cord of straight grained red oak per year, and have found the x27 a perfect weight for hours of swinging for this mature, retired outdoorsman. In every tree there are a couple pieces where the main limbs branch out from the trunk that I might typically noodle, and once the rounds get too big for me to lift, I'll pop them in half (or even quarters) with an old sacrificial hardware store maul on the ground. But 95%+ of my splitting is on a small block and with the x27. Should I be considering adding an Isocore to my equipment shed?
> 
> View attachment 872834


Yes, for me the isocore picks up where my splitting axe leaves off. I have 2 now. They are very comfortable to use . The x27 didn't work as well as my original fiskars splitting axe, would like to have another 1 of them also.


----------



## Philbert

No one plays golf with just one club . . . 

Philbert


----------



## Sandhill Crane

Pjilbert: LIKE x 2
Margaret laughed and commented she has three spinning wheels, and she uses each of them.


----------



## sean donato

Been a wile since I've had to use a maul /axe, thought I'd give an update on my Wilton maul. I did not like the original edge. I ended up making it a slightly narrower profile, taking care not to heat up the head too much. After that I have been fairly happy with it, the handle is a tad short for my swing style, and it throws me off a bit if I used an axe right before switching to the maul. I've not so purposely missed a few times, and blasted the handle, which shows no signs of fatigue. It does get rather heavy after about 4 hours of continuous use, but doesnt have an issue splitting oak cut @24" lengths. The only thing that keeps popping up in my mind, is I wish the handle was about 6 inches longer. I've asked for an x27, or the newish isocore splitting axe for christmas from my wife, and am looking forward to being able to test them side by side. Cheers all.


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## LondonNeil

Is that the Wilton bash?


----------



## sean donato

LondonNeil said:


> Is that the Wilton bash?


Yep, give me a few I'll grab a picture of it.


----------



## sean donato

Here you go,


I need to spend a bit more time refining the edge, but it's working so much better then the blunt factory edge how it is now.


----------



## Ronaldo

Did some splitting with the X25 today. I love Red Oak for splitting....









Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk


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## sean donato

Well men, I got what I asked for at christmas. Well in a round about way. My mother in law presented me with a $70.00 lowes gift card, with a not that read. Go get your axe thing, there were too many to chose from. 
So I swung by lowes and grabbed the 8lb isocore fiskers maul.


Here it is next to my wilton maul. Now one of my complaints with the wilton is the short handle, which I though was 36" well it's only 30". Go figure lol. 
First impression of the fiskers.
Handle has a nice feel to it, its solid and not hollow like some of the other Fisker products. The wedge shaped of the maul isnt quite what I expected. It's more of a wedge than a typical maul design. The factory edge is pathetic. Like 60 yo butter knife dull. It does have a very nice coating on the head, time will tell how fast it will wear off. I'm very keen to put it to work, I think I'll like it more then my wilton, just because of the handle length. I'll keep you posted with my impressions once I get to use it.


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## Jere39

Ronaldo said:


> Did some splitting with the X25 today. I love Red Oak for splitting....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk


Half a country apart, and I think we see eye to eye on the virtue of Red Oak for splitting, with a Fiskars - and in my case under the watchful eye of a trusty bird dog: 




And I also appreciate your preference for apply Red on Red:




Have a great and healthy new year in the woods


----------



## sean donato

Wanted to give an update on my fiskers isocore maul. It works well, arguably better then my wilton maul, the swing feels natural with the long handle, it doesn't bounce too much, and handle vibration as minimal to non existant. I've tried it in some red oak, which took a few swings to pop apart, but I put much less effort into it then the wilton. Once the splits were halved, the fiskers easily split the rest with little input from me. The more wedge design of the head, then the traditional maul design (I think) lends to its ability to easily separate the wood. The coating on the head is already half wore off. I assumed it would be as such, but was a little disappointed that it happened so quickly. I've split roughly half a cord give or take with it. I really like the lower part of the handle grip area, with and with out gloves you have a good purchase, and do not feel as though it will slip from your grasp. I think this will eventually wear off as it's a more rubber type of plastic, dont dont forsee it being an issue for quite some time. I feel it's a very good value for the money they ask, and (after some use) consider it to be my favorite maul, I may even sell off my wilton, which is a good maul, just not quite as good as the fiskers imo.


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## Philbert

Not to be a smart a**, but it is good to have a variety of tools for different situations. I even found times when a Fiskars X25 style maul worked better than the X27 syle, and vice versa. Plus, you have an extra, if one breaks, or can maybe con someone else into splitting along side you.

Philbert


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## LondonNeil

Absolutely agree with Philbert. As buckin' says, take several axes when you go to the pile.
I will always swap to a smaller axe as soon as a round has popped.

Thanks for the review though


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## sean donato

Philbert said:


> Not to be a smart a**, but it is good to have a variety of tools for different situations. I even found times when a Fiskars X25 style maul worked better than the X27 syle, and vice versa. Pluse you have an extra, if one breaks, or can maybe con someone else into splitting along side you.
> 
> Philbert





LondonNeil said:


> Absolutely agree with Philbert. As buckin' says, take several axes when you go to the pile.
> I will always swap to a smaller axe as soon as a round has popped.
> 
> Thanks for the review though


To be fair, I really like the wilton maul, it was by far leaps and bounds ahead of the standard true temper or whatever brand generic maul. I just really cant get past the stumpy handle, and that has always been an issue for me. I will head your advice for the time being, and keep it around. I was really surprised how much more I liked the fiskers, and likely wont touch the wilton unless I break the fiskers, but as you both astutely quipped. I can always get someone else to use it for me. Cheers gents.


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## LondonNeil

Tbh, sell the Wilton, but then get something smaller. An x25, x21 or such like. If I could only take one axe to the pile I'd pick something about 3.5 lbs and on a 28"-30" haft. That sort of size is a joy to use and can do a lot. Use the big maul to halve or quarter big rounds or on gnarly stuff but swap to the smaller axe as much as possible.


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## Jere39

Best Practice keeping Fiskars x27 in peak performance:




Straight grained Red Oak. Side note, makes the operator feel good too


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## LondonNeil

Oh absolutely! I love English oak for consistently easy splitting. Currently rattling through loads of it with a 3.5lb True Temper Jersey pattern I hung on a 28" Ash handle. It's so easy.


----------



## burnses

I should have checked this this thread out sooner but ill get my most used splitting stuff up on a post soon...

the can


----------



## MechanicMatt

See that handle??? There is an old Jet Li movie, The One, that’s right fellas.... there is only1 choice when it comes to hand held splitting devices. 
X27


----------



## svk

MechanicMatt said:


> See that handle??? There is an old Jet Li movie, The One, that’s right fellas.... there is only1 choice when it comes to hand held splitting devices.
> X27


To everyone except ctyank


----------



## Lee192233

Well, after reading all your glowing reviews about the X27, I bought one with a 36" handle. I haven't split wood by hand since the time I helped my uncle split wood with a crappy old maul and some splitting wedges. I swore I would never swing a splitting maul again. That's why I use the hydraulic splitter. 
However this tool is a game changer. I don't think it's any faster than the hydraulic splitter (not yet) in my big 20" long maple rounds. I think where it will excel is the up to 12" diameter rounds. I do like the exercise/stress relief from splitting wood by hand.
30 minutes splitting


What do you guys think of the Fiskars 8 lb maul? I was waffling between the two. 
Lee


----------



## sean donato

I love my fiskers iso core maul! Havent touched my wilton since I got it. I cut at 24" hasn't had a problem going through any of the hard wood I've split with it, save the knotted up pieces, but that's what the splitter is for.


----------



## svk

Lee192233 said:


> Well, after reading all your glowing reviews about the X27, I bought one with a 36" handle. I haven't split wood by hand since the time I helped my uncle split wood with a crappy old maul and some splitting wedges. I swore I would never swing a splitting maul again. That's why I use the hydraulic splitter.
> However this tool is a game changer. I don't think it's any faster than the hydraulic splitter (not yet) in my big 20" long maple rounds. I think where it will excel is the up to 12" diameter rounds. I do like the exercise/stress relief from splitting wood by hand.
> 30 minutes splitting
> View attachment 898306
> 
> What do you guys think of the Fiskars 8 lb maul? I was waffling between the two.
> Lee


The Fiskars maul is great for tough wood. Not something you want to swing all day.


----------



## Snap

Even though I can drive by the historic Collins factory in about 10 minutes, I don't find their vintage axes around here. So what would be decent newly produced chopping and splitting axes to look for to have around for personal use in the yard? I wouldn't have the knowledge to know what to look for in the vintage market and really haven't come across any at tag sales.


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## svk

Snap said:


> Even though I can drive by the historic Collins factory in about 10 minutes, I don't find their vintage axes around here. So what would be decent newly produced chopping and splitting axes to look for to have around for personal use in the yard? I wouldn't have the knowledge to know what to look for in the vintage market and really haven't come across any at tag sales.


The answer is-whatever you like. I judge an axe head by its face. You want a narrow profiled axe with a good sized head for chopping. A larger axe or smaller maul did splitting.


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## old CB

Altho I do almost all my splitting hydraulically, I do have a Fiskars 8 lb. isocore, and that thing is sweet. Wish I'd had one back in the day. I split everything by hand for 40-plus years. Got so tired of replacing wood handles that I welded a steel handle on my maul back in the '80s. That thing was hard on the hands, but it stood up to years of abuse.

The key to swinging a maul (same with an axe) is to get the momentum of a a full-round swing through centrifugal force. In other words, bring it around behind you so the head travels in a full circle. If you lift it in front of you and bring it down, you'll be worn out in no time.


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## Snap

old CB said:


> Altho I do almost all my splitting hydraulically, I do have a Fiskars 8 lb. isocore, and that thing is sweet. Wish I'd had one back in the day. I split everything by hand for 40-plus years. Got so tired of replacing wood handles that I welded a steel handle on my maul back in the '80s. That thing was hard on the hands, but it stood up to years of abuse.
> 
> The key to swinging a maul (same with an axe) is to get the momentum of a a full-round swing through centrifugal force. In other words, bring it around behind you so the head travels in a full circle. If you lift it in front of you and bring it down, you'll be worn out in no time.



Actually I only split by hand, and I have the Friskars Isocor and splitting axe, I wanted something less contemporary to fit my generation. The Friskars work but it's like new motorbikes compared to my 45 year old Bonneville. The vintage never grows old.


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## Fellin Feller

I've split a lot with the Fiskars.


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## rarefish383

Snap said:


> Actually I only split by hand, and I have the Friskars Isocor and splitting axe, I wanted something less contemporary to fit my generation. The Friskars work but it's like new motorbikes compared to my 45 year old Bonneville. The vintage never grows old.


Now, before I make this offer, I have to clarify, is that a Pontiac Bonneville, or a Triumph Bonneville? if it's a Triumph, I'll trade all of my 50+ vintage axes, and both my 22 ton and 35 ton splitters for it.


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## svk

Found at an antique store. IDK about this one lol.


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## Lee192233

svk said:


> Found at an antique store. IDK about this one lol.
> View attachment 924726
> 
> View attachment 924725
> 
> View attachment 924727


That looks safe!


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## svk

I probably should have ponied up the 30 bucks and sunk it in the lake lol.


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## H-Ranch

svk said:


> I probably should have ponied up the 30 bucks and sunk it in the lake lol.


I originally thought you meant you bought it already which made me question your judgement and/or eyesight and/or sense of touch. That thing doesn't even qualify as a wall hanger. 

Your second comment about the lake seems much more appropriate.


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## Philbert

svk said:


> Found at an antique store. IDK about this one lol.
> View attachment 924726
> 
> View attachment 924725
> 
> View attachment 924727


Concept model still in beta testing?

Philbert


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## Ronaldo

Thors hammer? In the rough??

Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk


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## LondonNeil

Necessity is the mother of invention. Then again.....
Stupidity is the mother of a great many foul ups, accidents and injuries!


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## Townie

I have a Swedish made manual junk splitter, made by AGMA. Not sure if this is something that may interest you. Not as fast as an axe, but it gets the job done.


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## rarefish383

Townie said:


> I have a Swedish made manual junk splitter, made by AGMA. Not sure if this is something that may interest you. Not as fast as an axe, but it gets the job done.


A friend bought one of those and tried to tell me it was the fastest splitter she had ever used. Maybe? Definitely not the fastest I’ve ever used.


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## Townie

Ya, definitely not fast, but good for a knotty one.


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## WTE

Townie said:


> I have a Swedish made manual junk splitter, made by AGMA. Not sure if this is something that may interest you. Not as fast as an axe, but it gets the job done.



I have one of these. Awesome for kindling. Not really great on anything largish. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Sebago Guide

I sold my house in Maine one year ago. Sold my seven chain saws as well as my Fiskars x27 and Fiskars Maul. 

Before I sold them I had the chance to compare them on splitting. I felt the X27 actually split wood easier than the maul. 

Anyway. I now find myself in need of an X27 and was surprised how much they went up in price. But, I see Fiskars has a new 36” handle splitting axe. It appears to be a different handle and a little cheaper. 

Has anyone tried this new model?


----------



## svk

Sebago Guide said:


> I sold my house in Maine one year ago. Sold my seven chain saws as well as my Fiskars x27 and Fiskars Maul.
> 
> Before I sold them I had the chance to compare them on splitting. I felt the X27 actually split wood easier than the maul.
> 
> Anyway. I now find myself in need of an X27 and was surprised how much they went up in price. But, I see Fiskars has a new 36” handle splitting axe. It appears to be a different handle and a little cheaper.
> 
> Has anyone tried this new model?


It’s the same as the X-27 less the rubberized grip. Folks seem to like them.


----------



## InTheNorth

New axe to put into the rotation. It splits wood beautifully and at 4.5 pounds is easy to swing. Seems like I hardly use my maul anymore on mainly ash and spruce including some pretty knotty stuff. The 5.5 inch blade makes it pretty hard to miss


----------



## LondonNeil

The hb arvika! It's loved by some, hated by others! What are you splitting?


----------



## InTheNorth

LondonNeil said:


> The hb arvika! It's loved by some, hated by others! What are you splitting?


Mostly ash and spruce including some pretty knotty......i left the grind it came with and it splits like a boss. I have a Granfors maul that hardly gets touched. Went to a felling axe this year and prefer swinging something lighter all day now. I suspect the guys that hate the Arvika 5 star shaped the blade to be better for chopping and now being more concave it gets stuck a lot


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## LondonNeil

The comments I've seen are about grind yes. I pay some attention but not loads, I've seen people write it off.... Actually I'm sure it's a great axe, but like most, only great in some wood and for splitting or felling but not both!


----------



## Snap

rarefish383 said:


> Now, before I make this offer, I have to clarify, is that a Pontiac Bonneville, or a Triumph Bonneville? if it's a Triumph, I'll trade all of my 50+ vintage axes, and both my 22 ton and 35 ton splitters for it.


Thant would be the Triumph. Not the only one I have that was bought new. Based on my insurer, each ax would need to be worth over $100.


----------



## OH_Varmntr

I ordered this Seven Pines Forge's Finnish Broad Axe the other day. 5lbs, 36" handle, 7.5" blade. I have a Fiskars X27 but wanted something with a much longer edge for a certain task.


----------



## Jeffkrib

Hi guys forgive me for asking this question but I’m not prepared to read through 112 pages to ‘maybe‘ find the answer.
My question is what’s on the market that’s halfway (in weigh) between a X27 and an Isocore. And I’m after a plastic handle spliter as I’m over breaking handles, wooden handles are a safety issue IMHO.


----------



## LondonNeil

Husqvarna s2800 springs to mind


----------



## Karrl

Jeffkrib said:


> Hi guys forgive me for asking this question but I’m not prepared to read through 112 pages to ‘maybe‘ find the answer.
> My question is what’s on the market that’s halfway (in weigh) between a X27 and an Isocore. And I’m after a plastic handle spliter as I’m over breaking handles, wooden handles are a safety issue IMHO.


Is this what you’re looking for? I don’t have one myself but they look to have a bit more grunt than an x27, they have a 41/2 pound head on them.


----------



## Jeffkrib

Thanks Neil and Kjorrrits, I can’t make out what brand that is from the pic?

Trying to figure out what the head weights of these axes are, on their websites
X27 says 2.6kg 5.7 lbs (not sure that’s head weight or total weight).
Husqvarna 2800, says 2.8kg head weight , total weight 2.95kg (surely that handle weighs more that 150grams?.). Isocore head weight 3.6kg, 7.9lbs
If the X27 head weight truely is 2.6kg and the Isocore is 3.6kg then the half way point I’m looking for is 3.1kg, 6.8lbs.


----------



## LondonNeil

Nothing too specific then?


----------



## Karrl

The one in my picture is a channellock brand maul, but most hardware stores near me have some version of the 4.5 pound maul.


----------



## Ranger-692

Thought I’d post this here…any idea what this unmarked axe is? Took a flyer on it for $25 thinking it might be a Plumb but not sure. Thoughts?


----------



## SweetMK

This is what my Plumb looks like,,,




Its not worth a hoot,, I gotta hit it with my 16 pound sledge to get it to split wood,,,,,,,,,,,


----------



## SweetMK

I went to the shed, and moved the tiller to change the oil, and there on the wall I found a second Plumb Champion,,






Now,, I have TWO fireplace mantle ornaments,,


----------



## clint53

This was an Axe head I dug while metal detecting. It's only 3 pounds 14 ounces.
It has good thickness in the cheeks.
For Its weight it does okay for splitting. Very little sticking.
I didn't make it to be pretty and hang of a wall. I made it to use.
I have another that is 4 3/4 pounds I'm going to do also.








An 18 seconds vid.


----------



## LondonNeil

After breaking the handle on my current favourite splitting tool, 28" handled Jersey, I was browsing the web for the nearest fiskars X as I may not manage to get the head rehung for a little while. With the x21 coming up at just over £50 plus postage I was all set to get the spoke shave out right away but then I came across this


That is 1.8kg and 31.5" so a spear and Jackson x25 rip off, £12 off in the sale bringing it to £17.99. same site also had the 1kg/28" x21 rip off down to £11.99 so o bought both, under £36 with postage I couldn't say no.
No doubt it'll be Chinese made and perhaps not fiskars quality but should tide me over and fits nicely between the 17 and 27 I have. With a couple of cord of wood to split it should get a decent try out unless I get round to the rehanging.


----------



## LondonNeil

*Birthday present *to myself

Cost just a few pence under £36 delivered, a fiver was the delivery, so cheap compared to a fiskars which is about £50 plus delivery. 28" is labelled 1kg and that must be the head weight as the axe is 1.485 kg on the kitchen scales. Larger is 32", labelled as 1.8kg, total weight 2.2kg. I find it hard to believe the larger axe has a lighter handle so the marked head weights are perhaps 100+g off.... Smaller must be about 2.5lb head, larger about 4lb.
Compared to the x27 and x17

Construction is basically the same so if the materials are as good I'm sure they will last very well. Details differ a little of course. Hafts are thicker, especially near the head, then the fiskars but not enough to be trouble. The nylon sections however feel very very slick! Or maybe it's just the pitch on my fiskars that makes them grippier. I may have to take the sand paper to the new ones. The blue sections are very nice soft and grippy rubber though, and Palm swell good so no concern about letting go.
As you can see the heads aren't quite the same shape as the fiskars


If t have to check the fiskars weights but both the x25 ripoff and the x21 rip off felt lighter than the x27 and the x17.
And the all important profiles... They aren't razor sharp, I'll get the file out but they weren't blunt.







Similar but slightly narrower than the fiskars, the faux x25 had the same sort of concave profile, but the faux x21 had a pretty straight wedge.

Finally the feel in use. Just like the fiskars there is no harshness, the hollow nylon handle works well. I spent 40 minutes splitting some Conifer and Oak and seemed to pull a lot of knotty bits off the pile. Both axes split as well as I expected, fine. Personally I wish the 28" had a heavier head....tbh I wish for the x23 to appear one day, 30" handle and 3.5-4 lb head... That would suit me I reckon... Alas no. However these 2 will be fine. The larger one felt unbalanced and head heavy for the first couple of swings but less so as I became more familiar with it.
Difficult to know for sure yet but they seemed to split about as well as the fiskars and despite the narrower profile didn't stick markedly more.
At 1/3 rd the price of a fiskars, bargain so far!


----------



## Philbert

LondonNeil said:


> *Birthday present *to myselfView attachment 986463


Happy Birthday!

Philbert


----------



## Philbert

I have a couple of Fiskars splitting axes, and a couple of their chopping axes (tried a hatchet, but it was ‘not for me’). 

I like them. My specific comments are back in one of the Fiskars threads several years back, but even then, there was considerable variation between models, and changes over time. 






Fiskars 28" and 36" Side-By-Side Comparison


I know - Just what we need: another Fiskars thread! Part 1 - (Mostly) Objective Comparison I have an older (2+ years) version of the Fiskars Super Splitter Axe, which I really like, but believe that it is different from the newer, X-25 model. I laid it out side by side with a new Fiskars X-27...




www.arboristsite.com





Philbert


----------



## Squareground3691

Covers most splitting and chopping tasks


----------



## LondonNeil

The spear and Jackson axes have had a good amount of use now. At the price, bargain but they are not fiskars, no. The slightly narrower profile means the stick much worse when I round doesn't pop., That's my biggest gripe.


----------



## moresnow

LondonNeil said:


> The spear and Jackson axes have had a good amount of use now. At the price, bargain but they are not fiskars, no. The slightly narrower profile means the stick much worse when I round doesn't pop., That's my biggest gripe.


Do you have a link to purchase?


----------



## LondonNeil

Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Professional Chopping Felling Splitting Axe - 1.0kg


Spear & Jackson; making everyday gardening easy and enjoyable through the precise and powerful performance of their tools. The Razorsharp Splitting Chopping Axe with an extra sharp angled head which will sure reduce your timber pile problems! This splitting axe is ideal for striking and...




www.in-excess.com













Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Professional Chopping Felling Splitting Axe - 1.8kg


Spear & Jackson; making everyday gardening easy and enjoyable through the precise and powerful performance of their tools. The Razorsharp Splitting Chopping Axe with an extra sharp angled head which will sure reduce your timber pile problems! This splitting axe is ideal for striking and...




www.in-excess.com






Note those are UK links. After quite a bit of use now I'm happy driven the price. If I'd seen a deal on the x25 or the husqvarna S whatever axe (not the 2800, the smaller one) they would be better as the spear and Jackson are a little thin and can stick hard. The steel is probably a bit soft as the edges need a good right tidy now, plus I sense the handle plastic is not unbreakable(, nearly) like the fiskars, it's quite flexy . For the cost though, pretty good.


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## LondonNeil

Hello! These look interesting, the bastard child of a marketing dream, a fiskars x21, and a wooden handle! https://www.fiskars.com/en-gb/gardening/info/norden-axes

Happened to notice that the UK is now getting the super splitting axe range for the first time, called 'solid splitting axes' a11, A19, a26, and these 'norden' axes in addition to the X series.


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