# stihl 056 ignition solutions?????



## xp395lumberjack (Mar 22, 2009)

After I discovered that my ignition was bad in the 056 mag 2 I started to do some research. I found info that said the ignition from a stihl 350TS or 360TS would work. I know at work we have stihl concrete saws so I'm going to try and bring it home and see if works on my 056. What do you guys think? By the way I really, really need a nice METAL 064 name plate!!!!! Thanks

Will there be any gtg around the Indiana area? I've never been to one and would love to go?


----------



## blsnelling (Mar 22, 2009)

If your crank has the eccentric, a 041 points ignition is a drop-in replacement. Or, you can take that same ignition and convert it to electronic with a Nova module.

I believe there are plans for a GTG south of Indy sometime this spring. PM ericjeepers.

You should be able to buy a new metal 064 model plate on eBay. That's where I got mine.


----------



## Lakeside53 (Mar 22, 2009)

Mag2 with crank lobes? lolol Only if someone messed with it...


yes, the TS350/TS360 SEM module is the exact replacement for the SEM in the 056M2.


----------



## Treesareus (Mar 23, 2009)

You have recieved replies from 2 of the best posters here imo. I am new to this and am not in the same leauge as them, but I have recently redone a 045AVSE which may have the same ignition, my no spark problem was cause by a brittle bare stop wire touching ground underneath the flywheel. So if you have not done so it may be worth your time to pull the flywheel, and ignition module and have a look. I repaired mine with solder and shrink wrap, you can also remove the wire but then no kill switch. You will have to remove flywheel to replace anyway. Or maybe just remove the wire from the stop switch and just ohm it to ground, if short circuit you may have discovered your problem. I don't know who they bought there wire from, but it seems to have broken down in 30 years since they made the saw, however the ignition module still looked almost new. HTH Don


----------



## Saw Dr. (Mar 23, 2009)

Treesareus said:


> You have recieved replies from 2 of the best posters here imo. I am new to this and am not in the same leauge as them, but I have recently redone a 045AVSE which may have the same ignition, my no spark problem was cause by a brittle bare stop wire touching ground underneath the flywheel. So if you have not done so it may be worth your time to pull the flywheel, and ignition module and have a look. I repaired mine with solder and shrink wrap, you can also remove the wire but then no kill switch. You will have to remove flywheel to replace anyway. Or maybe just remove the wire from the stop switch and just ohm it to ground, if short circuit you may have discovered your problem. I don't know who they bought there wire from, but it seems to have broken down in 30 years since they made the saw, however the ignition module still looked almost new. HTH Don



The ground wire problem is common on the Bosch ignitions on the 056 Super and 045 Supers. The 056 MAG and MAG II use a SEM ignition. The ignition itself is what fails on those. The ignitions are completely different, as well as the flywheel/fanwheel.


----------



## Lakeside53 (Mar 23, 2009)

well... In fairness.. I've seen my share of bad insulation on 056M2 wiring... It's usually pretty obvious when you pull the module. The later modules have a spade connector on the bottom for the grounding wire - the earler is directly into the module. If the earlier version, and it's bad, cut it off near the module, solder in a new wire and double heat shrink it.


----------



## nstueve (Aug 30, 2012)

Reviving old post...

Does anyone have pictures or a really good explanation to show the differences between the SEM and Bosch ignition systems? Is either better than the other? Sounds like if i have a SEM system I can get TS350 coil to fix any ignition problems?

I have 2-3 crank cases w/ ign's but wanted to collect the information first so I know what's going on and what to look for... Planning on Restoring a 056magII this winter but want to put the "good parts" into it so I don't have to worry in the future. 

Also what is the best way to pull the flywheel under the fan? I got the fan cover pulled off but can't get figure how the flywheel comes off. Special tool? Didn't want to force it off and break something...


----------



## Justsaws (Aug 30, 2012)

nstueve said:


> Reviving old post...
> 
> Does anyone have pictures or a really good explanation to show the differences between the SEM and Bosch ignition systems? Is either better than the other? Sounds like if i have a SEM system I can get TS350 coil to fix any ignition problems?
> 
> ...



Threaded flywheel puller, WD40, and sometimes some heat as the Bosch flywheels can be on there real good. Sounds like you have the Bosch.


----------



## maico490 (Aug 30, 2012)

First pic is Bosch ignition.
Second is homemade flywheel puller for Bosch.
Last is Bosch 2 part flywheel.

Just edited this as I mixed up the pictures. No need for the SEM flywheel pic as Hotshot has posted it


----------



## hotshot (Aug 30, 2012)

*Last FW pic for a SEM GA*

There are two different style SEMs used for those saws

The newer FW for the G/E series is one piece without the three screws...


----------



## nstueve (Aug 30, 2012)

ok so you get the SEM flywheel and then you can use the more previlent ts350 coils??? What can the SEM fly wheels be found on?


----------



## maico490 (Aug 30, 2012)

nstueve said:


> ok so you get the SEM flywheel and then you can use the more previlent ts350 coils??? What can the SEM fly wheels be found on?



Alongside all the other teeth in a hen's mouth.
Failing that Mag II 056.Some of the big Huskies shared the same ignition but I'm guessing the flywheel is different. 2100 rings a bell but can't be sure. Ts350 flywheel won't fit.


----------



## hotshot (Aug 30, 2012)

*Sem*



maico490 said:


> Alongside all the other teeth in a hen's mouth.
> Failing that Mag II 056.Some of the big Huskies shared the same ignition but I'm guessing the flywheel is different. 2100 rings a bell but can't be sure. Ts350 flywheel won't fit.



Right, used on the 2100, maybe even the Dolmar 133 used it. The difference is that the Husky high tension lead is potted into the stator & too short for the 056, but nothing that a high voltage splice won't quickly fix.

Be patient on the hunt for your SEM GE flywheels, they will be on fleabay occasionally


----------



## nstueve (Aug 30, 2012)

10-4...
I think most of the ign i have are the two piece Bosch set up... I still have 1 that works so I might just stick with that and stay away from the modifications for now. I just wanted to gain the knowledge i guess. Would have been better if stihl put a standard ign outside the flywheel so other ign modules would swap. Guess that's why people are ditching these saws left and right with parts becoming more and more scarce.


----------



## maico490 (Aug 30, 2012)

This makes interesting reading for bringing Bosch ignitions back to life but you have to retime: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/153271.htm


----------



## nstueve (Aug 31, 2012)

I have the bosch ign like previously shown but also have one that looks like this... 
http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQJ9j8QjBBrDJjqbR8jjLWkP-sG3VLsJfzyH_Kx_-zbJZ3nGUKp_g&t=1
Guessing it's bosch too since it's under the same fan wheel and similar flywheel as the bosch ign.

I've got bad wiring I need to fix on both but thought I would post up that there seems to be two different Bosch set-ups. Is either better than the other/fail less?

I'll give that other 056 ign thread a read too... 

Thanks Guys!


----------



## hotshot (Aug 31, 2012)

nstueve said:


> I have the bosch ign like previously shown but also have one that looks like this...
> http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQJ9j8QjBBrDJjqbR8jjLWkP-sG3VLsJfzyH_Kx_-zbJZ3nGUKp_g&t=1
> Guessing it's bosch too since it's under the same fan wheel and similar flywheel as the bosch ign.
> 
> ...



That's the other SEM, the GA series. Also used on the 041 Supers. There are two Bosch CD types though, the early one had the electronics more exposed, with just a conformal coating. Both use the same rotor/FW. 

You can get a rotor/FW for that GA cheap & then use the same fan wheel with the 3 screws. Have seen a lot of them on the internet lately, look for the four separate magnets on the inside rim, but they are not evenly spaced out, and have two closer together. The points FW can look the same, but have the magnets evenly spaced out or another Bosch point type had just one continous strip. What a mess of garbled up ignition changes that Stihl made at that time....I think there must be five different FW all together.


----------



## Bullseye (Mar 2, 2016)

I know this is an older thread, but does anyone have a top and bottom pic of the G/E series SEM flywheel? Need to confirm something on my saw.......

I have a nice, 056 AV Super that definitely has the SEM G/E ignition module, (just removed it) but the flywheel is a two-piece unit with the detachable fan, has the three threaded holes for the puller, has four equally-spaced magnets underneath, has a "made in Germany" stamp on the side with what looks to be a standard Stihl part number, and appears NOT to be made in Sweden.............from everything I've read on this post, that should NOT be the FW for the SEM G/E, although the module
strangely fits underneath!

I can post a pic of FW and module if needed.

I bought this saw from a guy who never had it running, just said that he "tried to get it to spark" and did not get there..........the compression is good so I know I can make it a good runner if I get the proper ignition combo going.........

Anyhow, I just want to check if the previous owner has not mixed a SEM module underneath a points-type FW, if that is even possible.......
once I know if I have the right FW/Ignition combo, then I can start working on getting the spark fixed and get it back cutting the big wood......................


----------



## Shifty540 (Jun 1, 2016)

Bullseye, did you ever get this saw up and running? I have the EXACT same situation as you are dealing with. I did end up finding a frayed killswitch wire while I was in there, which I believe could have contributed to my issues of it turning off when it got warmed up. I inititally believed it would be a Bosch ignition, so I bought the capacitor to perform the "Foggsail" fix, but to my surprise it was the SEM when I got in there (after needing to purchase an expensive flywheel tool). 

Have not put the saw back together yet, but debating about whether to just locate a new ignition (potentially from a TS-35oA) or go ahead and see if I can get it to work with the ground wire now removed.


----------



## Bullseye (Jun 2, 2016)

Shifty...........I actually found a supplier on the Germany ebay who sold replacements for both style of Bosch ignitions.......he has both for the points ignition replacement (with integrated coil in effect converting it to electronic), and the full electronic style Bosch replacement............ My saw as I discovered was originally the points ignition since it had the lobe on the crank

the replacement ignition I bought was about half the money of the other, and it took a bit over 2 weeks to get it sent over from the Fatherland, but well worth it. Works like a champ.

Here's the link to his site............http://www.ebay.com/itm/Elektronisc...461574?hash=item2eb18f69c6:g:RTUAAOSwY45URgGc

If you have the other Bosch style of full ignition, just click on his "other items" and it will direct you to the page to buy the other style.

IF you have a SEM, none of these choices work obviously..............However, like said in the other posts, you can swap flywheels to match the ignition and in my case, to match the recoil style..............

Either way, I got hot spark baby!...........and the best part is the fix is a clean and easy plug and play.

Good luck with yours!~


----------



## NathanInAdelaide (Sep 2, 2016)

Hi Shifty and Bullseye,
Did either of you get something working on the SEM ignition?
just starting research on how to fix a non sparking 056 mag2. 
I have a nova 2 to try just as soon as I take it off another saw!! 

Cheers
Nathan


----------



## JonCraig (Sep 2, 2016)

Different saws, but similar problems. I have an 041 w/ SEM that I tried a Nova on. Not even close. Swapped to a points flywheel w/ the nova. Started & idled fine, but fell on its face at high rpms. Converted it to points and it runs strong.


----------



## Bullseye (Sep 2, 2016)

NathanInAdelaide said:


> Hi Shifty and Bullseye,
> Did either of you get something working on the SEM ignition?
> just starting research on how to fix a non sparking 056 mag2.
> I have a nova 2 to try just as soon as I take it off another saw!!
> ...



Hello Nathan, 

Always good to hear from a friend Down Under!

However, my solutions were only for the Bosch ignitions, not the SEM...........at this time,
I do not have any advice to offer for the SEM

If you have anything that comes up, please let us know...........Good luck!

Bullseye


----------



## NathanInAdelaide (Sep 3, 2016)

Thanks lads, 

I have had a bit of a play tonight with the 056 but didnt get too far.
Might have a tilt at the aftermarket ignition... Does anyone have info about the variable timing? Cant seem to find too much anywhere about it except that it has variable timing.... Sounds like a challenge to me...


----------



## NathanInAdelaide (Sep 4, 2016)

Hmmm looks like the variable timing might be a furfy.
JonCraig, I have read a little about your experiences with your 041. I have an 051 which runs with a nova as if it was supposed to be on there? Electronic too not points...... just cut the trigger wire and connected the nova right in there and it barks. havent had time to test thoroughly but initial trials are good. Also want to get it nice and hot and see how it goes under duress but looks promising. 
You tried the nova just cut into the SEM ignition trigger? Did you try both polarities? Although I guess you would have had to try with the new coil? not the old one??

On another note I tested my coil tonight and got 2.5k so that winding looks ok.. have to test the other one.......


----------



## NathanInAdelaide (Sep 4, 2016)

I take it that 30 Ohms is not a good reading?
Can anyone comment? 0 would be very bad? 300 ok right?
Oh and this looks like the TS350/360 coil module.... I think?

Cheers


----------



## JonCraig (Sep 4, 2016)

30 might be correct. You'd expect a high ratio between the primary and secondary, as the transformer is converting a very small voltage (maybe less than 20V) from a magnet moving past a coil into a very high voltage (10k plus).

For the correct specs, of course, we need a service manual.


----------



## NathanInAdelaide (Sep 4, 2016)

thanks Jon Craig, I agree, so with that extra vote of confidence I might replace the wiring and reassemble and test.


----------



## NathanInAdelaide (Sep 9, 2016)

Hmmm yeah nah..... 30 ohms is apparently no good. So the hunt begins


----------



## Vern D (Oct 30, 2017)

I had the same problem of the coil heating up then would stop firing. I found a simple cheap solution. I installed a Oregon 33053 electronic ignition module and did away with the Bosch. The Oregon module has to be ground down to fit but a dremel tool makes it quick work.


----------



## Always learning (Oct 25, 2018)

Vern D said:


> I had the same problem of the coil heating up then would stop firing. I found a simple cheap solution. I installed a Oregon 33053 electronic ignition module and did away with the Bosch. The Oregon module has to be ground down to fit but a dremel tool makes it quick work.View attachment 609844


Hey Vern,

I don’t suppose you could walk me through the fix?


----------



## Always learning (Oct 25, 2018)

H


Bullseye said:


> Shifty...........I actually found a supplier on the Germany ebay who sold replacements for both style of Bosch ignitions.......he has both for the points ignition replacement (with integrated coil in effect converting it to electronic), and the full electronic style Bosch replacement............ My saw as I discovered was originally the points ignition since it had the lobe on the crank
> 
> the replacement ignition I bought was about half the money of the other, and it took a bit over 2 weeks to get it sent over from the Fatherland, but well worth it. Works like a champ.
> 
> ...


Hi Bullseye,

Would you be able to tell me which ignition I’ve got? 
Thanks for the heads up on the German shop.


----------



## JonCraig (Oct 25, 2018)

That’s Bosch, if I’m not mistaken.


----------



## Always learning (Nov 6, 2018)

JonCraig said:


> That’s Bosch, if I’m not mistaken.


Hey Jon,

I got one of these German ignitions and upon fitting found that it’s housing is around 1mm to large on the O.D. to fit flat on the saws base plate.
The obvious fix is to disassemble the ignition parts off the housing and take a bit off it. 
Any thoughts?


----------



## JonCraig (Nov 6, 2018)

Hmmm... doesn’t sound right. Should fit better than that. Post pics of what you have, please?


----------



## scallywag (Nov 6, 2018)

Time to do some reading........https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...ihl-045-056-bosch-electronic-ignition.256095/


----------



## Always learning (Nov 7, 2018)

JonCraig said:


> Hmmm... doesn’t sound right. Should fit better than that. Post pics of what you have, please?


Hey Jon
Here is the photos of it in but not fastened down as it’s not sitting down rather it is sitting high on the ring.


----------



## Always learning (Nov 7, 2018)

scallywag said:


> Time to do some reading........https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...ihl-045-056-bosch-electronic-ignition.256095/


Hey Scallywag,
I have read that thread but I can’t seem to work out what you mean by it. 
I have bought a aftermarket German ignition that should suit my saw as it’s not an SEM set up or a points set up ( no lobe on shaft ) but it doesn’t fit by a mm or so.
Am I missing something?


----------



## scallywag (Nov 7, 2018)

Always learning said:


> I have read that thread but I can’t seem to work out what you mean by it.





If you still have this ignition, not sure why you wouldn't apply the 'Foggysail' fix as apposed to fitting an after market ignition?


----------



## JonCraig (Nov 7, 2018)

That aftermarket ignition sure looks like a nova chip attached to a coil. IIRC, the flywheel magnet polarity is wrong (or maybe it’s the physical timing location of the magnets on the flywheel?) and a nova chip won’t work on these ignitions. Do you have a link to the product you bought? Maybe the fine print will be telling?


----------



## Always learning (Nov 17, 2018)

Hi Jon and Scallywag, 
It turns out I got a bit agricultural with it and took to the ignition housing with a grinder until it fit neat.
Bright blue spark and runs on the bench like a new one.
Now looking for a clutch cover with brake, an air filter , a couple of carby throttle/clutch cir clips and a bar with chain. 
I had bought it for $10 off a local stihl shop for parts for my Mag 2 but then ended up getting excited with its compression and bought a carby and the ignition off eBay to get it going too.
All up I’ve spent about $250 on it and now these other items look like another$200. 
Thoughts on keeping on going? It’s a 54mm cylinder.

Scallywag, I would have done that fix and saved a bit of coin but it looked a bit out of my depth. I’m not careful enough.


----------



## Always learning (Nov 17, 2018)

JonCraig said:


> That aftermarket ignition sure looks like a nova chip attached to a coil. IIRC, the flywheel magnet polarity is wrong (or maybe it’s the physical timing location of the magnets on the flywheel?) and a nova chip won’t work on these ignitions. Do you have a link to the product you bought? Maybe the fine print will be telling?



Hi Jon, as said in other post it works now but with one catch.... won’t turn off. 
Switch and wire to new ignition testing good.
Any thoughts on what to do there? 
I’m having a really good run of luck with this aftermarket ignition.


----------



## JonCraig (Nov 17, 2018)

That’s awesome that it works. You should consider taking it all apart and making a thread with detailed pics explaining what you did. Others will likely chime in with exactly what you got and why/how it works, etc.

As for turning the beast off, is there a kill wire coming out of the new ignition module? That should go to the kill switch, and the switch is screwed into the case (which is grounded). 

On an old-school points ignition, the... lemme think... the condenser and one leg of the primary side of the coil are tied together, and I think the kill comes off that.

When the kill switch is closed, both legs of the coil are grounded, so no voltage can be induced. 

On a nova-type module, I assume the same would apply, EXCEPT in the solid state electronics world, you have to be very careful shorting to ground around transistors. The possibility exists for the current to seek a path back to ground via the chip, and if the voltage is higher than the (breakdown voltage? Is that right?), you can nuke the chip. I know with linear regulated power supplies, you always had to install protection diodes around them so any caps downstream had a way to discharge around your regulator. 

A Nova chip almost certainly has this type of protection built in, but all that nerdery above is just to say “read the dang manual”. If your ignition didn’t come with documentation, google Nova module small engine and read up on their installation. It should apply to what you have. 

If you do have an obvious kill wire, test your switch w/ a digital multimeter, clean contacts, try a jumper wire, etc.

Any apologies to all who know more about electronics than me. I’m sure I have errors above. I’m scratching brain cells that I haven’t used since my electronics minor in college. :-D


----------



## JonCraig (Nov 17, 2018)

Oh—I’m dumb and should read more.

You have a kill wire, it and switch appear good.

Good connection between the rest of the ignition and the case? Switch and case? (Didn’t wrap switch body with electrical tape or anything, right?)

You only have two wires from the ignition, correct? The kill & the plug lead?

What if you touch the end of the kill wire to a nice, clean ground on the cylinder?

This is also easier to check with the starter off, the plug out, a drill on the flywheel nut, FYI. A spark tester is an easy visual.


----------



## hotshot (Nov 17, 2018)

There has to be a ground wire installed between the fuel tank and the main chassis, as the gas tank is isolated on rubber bushings, and the kill switch is mounted on the gas tank.

Otherwise, the Off/On switch “no worky”!

Look at the IPL, the ground strap wire is shown in the Carburetor Box view, item 23.


----------



## JonCraig (Nov 17, 2018)

hotshot said:


> There has to be a ground wire installed between the fuel tank and the main chassis, as the gas tank is isolated on rubber bushings, and the kill switch is mounted on the gas tank.
> 
> Otherwise, the Off/On switch “no worky”!
> 
> Look at the IPL, the ground strap wire is shown in the Carburetor Tank view, item 27.



There it is!


----------



## cummins5.9 (Jan 25, 2019)

056 AV lost spark. Tested with new plug, no spark. I have the SEM GA ignition. If I check kill switch wire with ohm meter to cylinder and it zeros out I'm guessing module is bad. I've pulled flywheel and checked for kill wire short but no bare wire touching anywhere. 

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk


----------



## hotshot (Jan 25, 2019)

Yep, sounds like it’s dead. There's not a quick & cheap fix for that.

If you’re not in a big hurry, keep watching fleabay & a used one will come up for $50-60. The same SEM GA #1108 400 0800 is used on the TS-350 concrete saws. Otherwise, they’re selling $125-175 new.

At about the same cost of $125, you could always use the German Saegenspezi supplied Bosch clone IM... if you also buy an old Bosch flywheel & fanwheel to match. You’ll also need longer module attachment screws & electrical quick connectors for the kill wire.

The used Bosch FWs are available because a lot of guys converted over to the “more reliable” SEM GA, go figure, lol. They just run too hot, since they’re hidden under the FW.


----------



## cummins5.9 (Jan 29, 2019)

Thank you Hotshot. Luckily not in a big hurry to fix. It'll keep my ms660 busy now. I really wouldn't mind buying a new sem coil if I can find one. My grandpa bought this saw new back in the 80's and would like to keep it going for as long as I can saw. Do you know of a place that sells new coils for around what you stated? Thank you. -Kevin

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk


----------



## hotshot (Jan 29, 2019)

There’s new ones selling on fleabay for $150 now.

Selletra branded SEM modules are the most current production.


----------



## nolids (Jan 18, 2020)

I just bought a new SEM GA from eBay and the price is now $199.99. There is a slightly cheaper one also, but it is not the same on the backside, it has a plug-in spark plug wire. I'm putting it on a Makita concrete saw that uses Dolmar 143 parts-- 95cc's.


----------



## stuckytough (Oct 12, 2020)

Hey guys. I'm new to the site, but found myself troubleshooting a similar issue. I have an 056 with SEM ignition and am troubleshooting no spark. Initially, I found deteriorated ignition switch wire insulation and found continuity to ground (regardless of ignition switch position). So, I thought that was straight forward - replace the wire. After removing the flywheel and ignition to access the wire, I found that there may me more to the story. I unplugged the ignition wire spade terminal from the module, and tested from terminal on the module to ground and still have continuity (direct short to ground). I assume this should read as an open circuit. meaning when the ignition switch is ON, the spade terminal should read open to ground. if that assumption is correct, it sounds like i need a replacement ignition module? or are my assumptions flawed? I found some that 'look' similar for ~$100 + shipping on ebay.. any advise would be appreciated. thanks.


----------



## stuckytough (Oct 12, 2020)

looks like an issue with my last picture. hopefully this one uploads


----------



## Armbru84 (Oct 12, 2020)

@Jacob J. 

Afternoon JJ, thought you may be able to help @stuckytough on this one. He’s one of the good guys.


----------



## farmer steve (Oct 12, 2020)

stuckytough said:


> looks like an issue with my last picture. hopefully this one uploads


Welcome to AS stuckytough. Go to the beg for manuals thread in the stickies section and ask for manuals,IPL and technical files for your saw. More than likely you need new SEM coil. (expensive) The tech files have some info about replacement. Let me know if you don't get them. I have them on the puter. FS.


----------



## stuckytough (Oct 12, 2020)

Thanks for the advice. I will take a look this evening. thanks.


----------



## Vintage Engine Repairs (Oct 13, 2020)

The short circuit wire and terminal will always read continuity if you connect one of the multimeter probes to the negative spade terminal on the ignition module and the other probe of the the multimeter to ground. That’s how you kill spark - by creating a closed circuit. The kill wire when wired into a switch is always disconnected from ground until the switch is actuated which will then connect it.

The ignition switch is just a means to connect the negative passage to ground, it doesn’t have direct control over the ignition module as in, it won’t turn it off as such. 

So when the ignition switch is set to run position / ON, you should have an open circuit (so the electrical signal cannot reach ground via the short circuit wire) when the switch is turned to the kill position / OFF then you’ll get continuity and the saw will turn off.

Spark is killed because it is lazy and will take the quickest route to ground. When the kill wire is ground it doesn’t need to jump the plug gap, when it’s not ground it has to jump the plug gap to get to ground.


----------



## stuckytough (Aug 10, 2022)

Old thread, but thought I would give an update. So I determined my stock 1108 400 *0810* stator was bad. I searched for a couple years hoping to stumble on a bargain used part. No luck. Local(ish) dealer had a 1108 400* 0800 *in stock (new old stock part)... so i drove an hr to pick it up. When i inspected the stator, it looked slightly different, and had a different part number on the casting- 1108 400* 0804*. I couldn't find much info on it and the dealer did not have experience either.. but he agreed to let me try it and return if it didn't fit. Long story short - it work, and the saw is running like a champ again. 
it did take a little finesse.. i had to gently file some of the plastic potting / overmold on the back of stator and a small ledge on the saw enclosure counterbore. this was needed for a little clearance to allow my timing marks to line up. so the part seems to functional work, but had some clearance issues. again, not ideal, but its running great.


----------



## KASH (Aug 10, 2022)

Tks for the up date.
Kash


----------

