# prussik for flipline adjuster?



## voxac30dude (Nov 28, 2009)

have any of you ever used a prussik instead of a mechanical adjuster for a simple flip line?


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## mattfr12 (Nov 28, 2009)

yes i actually like it better they are way less exspensive to make. i wear mechanical adjusters out ive went through 2 of them so far after time even after lubing them up they start sticking and i have to fight to get it how i want it. another plus is that you can cut it. if you are running a steel core lanyard with a mechanical adjuster it is alot harder to cut it in an emergency.


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## treesquirrel (Nov 28, 2009)

I've used mechanical rope grabs for a while now. I prefer them over thew prussic but the points mentioned here are quite accurate. Holds the flip-line just as well and cheaper.


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## voxac30dude (Nov 28, 2009)

mattfr12 said:


> yes i actually like it better they are way less exspensive to make. i wear mechanical adjusters out ive went through 2 of them so far after time even after lubing them up they start sticking and i have to fight to get it how i want it. another plus is that you can cut it. if you are running a steel core lanyard with a mechanical adjuster it is alot harder to cut it in an emergency.



whats a good cord to use with a maxi flip steel core line? i was thinking of using a beeline or HRC.


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## ECRUPPRECHT (Nov 28, 2009)

beeline or tenew is also good about half price add a micro pulley and make it adjustabe with one hand


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## ECRUPPRECHT (Nov 28, 2009)

*tenex


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## voxac30dude (Nov 28, 2009)

ECRUPPRECHT said:


> *tenex


 i cant wait to try it. thanks


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## ECRUPPRECHT (Nov 28, 2009)

my local saw shop has it its what i use, but sherril also has it check it out


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## voxac30dude (Nov 28, 2009)

wow there is so many prusik cords to choose from. what are you favorites? what do you think stands up to day to day use the best? also http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9LR9YlWsqk which of these prusik knots would work best for a flip line set up?


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## ECRUPPRECHT (Nov 28, 2009)

ive got two seperate lanyards both from tenex, both with the micro pulley set ups they are over two years old and still going strong, they do very little damage or abrasion on your flipline compared to mechanial rope grabs, ive always used the taut line style prussic knot which is basically the two loops you can slacken it out one handed and when you add in the micro pulleys you can also tighten them u one handed comes in very handy.


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## Blakesmaster (Nov 28, 2009)

voxac30dude said:


> wow there is so many prusik cords to choose from. what are you favorites? what do you think stands up to day to day use the best? also http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9LR9YlWsqk which of these prusik knots would work best for a flip line set up?



The best prussik's a free one. Take the old one off your climb line that looks a bit iffy and might be glazed up from those fast burns down, slap it on a biner and clip to your D ring. Good to go.


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## voxac30dude (Nov 29, 2009)

Blakesmaster said:


> The best prussik's a free one. Take the old one off your climb line that looks a bit iffy and might be glazed up from those fast burns down, slap it on a biner and clip to your D ring. Good to go.



sounds dangerous like me felling a 100 foot tall euc with a 40cc saw and a 18 inch bar.


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## mattfr12 (Nov 29, 2009)

tenex is the way to go i also use it on a maxi flip line


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## clearance (Nov 29, 2009)

I have a double ended 18' steelcore. It has a steelcore prussic.


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## ECRUPPRECHT (Nov 29, 2009)

clearance said:


> I have a double ended 18' steelcore. It has a steelcore prussic.



thats a helluva long 2in1


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## RacerX (Nov 29, 2009)

I've used a prusik with micro-pulley, one way mechanical adjuster, and most recently an A.R.T. Positioner. The prusik is good because it can be released under tension. But after using three different system nothing compares to the A.R.T. Now cost, that's a completely different issue. The A.R.T. will set set you back $178 for the swivel version.


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## voxac30dude (Nov 29, 2009)

is there anything to keep in mind when using "Tenex" as far as heat resistance goes? im more familiar with Beeline and HRC prussik cord and have never tried anything non heat resistant. does it slide better then something with Technora fibers in it?


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## RedlineIt (Nov 29, 2009)

voxac30dude said:


> is there anything to keep in mind when using "Tenex" as far as heat resistance goes? im more familiar with Beeline and HRC prussik cord and have never tried anything non heat resistant. does it slide better then something with Technora fibers in it?



I've never used tenex, but I suggest that if you're going to use it on your flipline/lanyard ONLY, where's the heat going to come from?

Hard to generate heat on a wicked burn all the way to the end of a Maxi-flip.

That said, I have several different lanyards, all with Prussic adjusters of one sort or another. It's easy duty for the cord, small adjustments back and forth, so they last a long, long time.

Like clearance says above, my steelcore flipline/lanyard has a steelcore prussic. Bombproof.


RedlineIt


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## lego1970 (Nov 29, 2009)

voxac30dude said:


> have any of you ever used a prussik instead of a mechanical adjuster for a simple flip line?



Yes, I do. I use a 8mm cord on a 11mm static rope. I have a short 8mm cord (about 10" loop after doing the pursik) and about a 8' 11mm static rope tied into my right D ring then I just use one snap on the other end of the 11mm static rope. I like it that way because it's lighter without all the snaps/carabiners and also since I'm left handed I only snap and unsnap off my left side so there is less chance that I'll fudge up and unhook the wrong carabiner. I used to have a 3 n 1 lanyard which was nice to always be tied in going around branches, but a couple times I unhooked the wrong snap leaving me either to free fall 5' or on a couple occasion I think I somehow unbucked completely. Last year I actually tried to learn something new and started useing the split tail system so now I stayed tied in when going around branches without having to use that 3 n 1 lanyard (which I hated). Anyway good luck with whatever you use. I think everybody has slightly different ways in which they do things.


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## voxac30dude (Nov 29, 2009)

oh i forgot to say. how to i attach the prusik to my harnesses D ring? twisted clevis?


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## clearance (Nov 29, 2009)

ECRUPPRECHT said:


> thats a helluva long 2in1



So I thought as well, until I climbed old growth that it wouldn't go around.:greenchainsaw:


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## ECRUPPRECHT (Nov 30, 2009)

voxac30dude said:


> oh i forgot to say. how to i attach the prusik to my harnesses D ring? twisted clevis?


well you got the eye to eye prussic cord i just use a petzl AM'D triact carabiner, however any autolocking carabiner will work the same, hope this helps if you hve any other questions let me know....ERIC


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## lego1970 (Nov 30, 2009)

voxac30dude said:


> oh i forgot to say. how to i attach the prusik to my harnesses D ring? twisted clevis?



I like mine attached directly to the D-ring with no carabiner, snaps, or clips. The only Carabiner I have off my right side is used as a way to advance the slack, like a micro pulley. The bad thing is that is I can't cheat and work only on the left side D-ring when just trying to find a secondary tie in point but otherwise I like it fixed. That's just my way of doing things.


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## lego1970 (Nov 30, 2009)

TreeCo said:


> That's what I've been doing for the past couple of years but just last night I made up a new one with a distel on the biner and an aluminum snap on the non adjustable end. It's about 16ft. long and I plan on using it not only as a lanyard but also frequently as a second climbing system on my bridge. Instead of a micro pulley I'm using a double swivel made for rotating hanging plants. This is the third rope change for this lanyard using the same snap and swivel. The first two used the vt but I'm going with the distel this time for compactness.




I like your set up a lot better then mine. Mine is a little different and I'll post pics in the morning when my camera is charged up.


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## 1I'dJak (Nov 30, 2009)

I recently got a steel core prussic for my flipline adjuster...double ender like clearance's....It's definelty has its advantages but doesn't adjust near as fast as my petzl macrograb...I've taken the little doodad that keeps some tension on the grab, allowing me to adjust with one hand (most times) and its way quicker and smoother than the prussic, especially when tightening up... with no tension on it I can sometimes lengthen it one handed..,


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## lego1970 (Dec 1, 2009)

Here is how I've been doing it. Treeco, I like the look of your set up because it looks like there is no slack when advancing the hitch. On mine there is about 10" of slack I have to pull up before the carabiner advances the hitch. I always kept it that way because I was scared to have anything close to the prusik hitch in fear that somehow it could cause the hitch to loose friction. My climbing line is similiar and once again there is a lot of slack that I have to take up before the carabiner advances the blake hitch. Same deal, I was always afraid to have anything close to the hitch. Nobody has ever shown me how to do all that, so that was my version. I'm gonna have to steal your set up and try it out. It looks nicer. I also like how a lot of you guys use that double fisherman knot. I've only used a double fisherman when connecting two ends of a rope, otherwise I've always used a figure 8. I've been useing the figure 8 for years and it's never done me wrong but it does use up a lot of rope and is bulky. 

BTW sorry Voxac30dude if I'm getting away from your original post.


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## Bermie (Dec 1, 2009)

TreeCo said:


> That's what I've been doing for the past couple of years but just last night I made up a new one with a distel on the biner and an aluminum snap on the non adjustable end. It's about 16ft. long and I plan on using it not only as a lanyard but also frequently as a second climbing system on my bridge. Instead of a micro pulley I'm using a double swivel made for rotating hanging plants. This is the third rope change for this lanyard using the same snap and swivel. The first two used the vt but I'm going with the distel this time for compactness.



That's almost identical to my setup, only I use an eye/eye distel and have a micro pulley on the carabiner. Very neat, very little slack. Great minds


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## canopyboy (Dec 1, 2009)

Bermie said:


> That's almost identical to my setup, only I use an eye/eye distel and have a micro pulley on the carabiner. Very neat, very little slack. Great minds



Same here, but I've spliced the clip on the end for giggles as well. Great way to use up rope scraps. Neat, compact, and adjusts under tension just like your climbing line. In fact I'm thinking of doing the same thing with my wire core so I can adjust it under tension as well. Guess I'll have to think up something to do with my old rope grabs.

But don't confuse me with having a great mind....


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## Bermie (Dec 2, 2009)

canopyboy said:


> Same here, but I've spliced the clip on the end for giggles as well. Great way to use up rope scraps. Neat, compact, and adjusts under tension just like your climbing line. In fact I'm thinking of doing the same thing with my wire core so I can adjust it under tension as well. Guess I'll have to think up something to do with my old rope grabs.
> 
> But don't confuse me with having a great mind....



Ha, you can join the club...
I have tried a couple of rope grabs but am sold on the adjust under tension of a hitch


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## mcb (Dec 4, 2009)

i picked up a steelcore flipline and mechanical adjuster when i first started and HATED the lack of slacking adjust when tense at all. i use that for an ascender now.

for friction hitches ive used clearance 3/8 rope in blakes and prusic configuration, but ive settled on the a VT with micropulley for most everything. looks complex but it really isnt once you get it. the VT slackens instantly and makes for one hand adjustments all the time, no matter how much sap. sinches up instantly, i never ever have to wrestle this setup in the tree. the other friction hitch i use alot is the klemheist. sets up fast when tossing another rope out, and it loosens quite easily to get past the sap goobs. 

probably goes without saying that cutting with one lanyard, even if its a steelcore, isnt safe if the hitch is just rope. i knicked my VT on thanksgiving 80% of the way through. good thing for backups.


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## SINGLE-JACK (Dec 5, 2009)

TreeCo said:


> That's what I've been doing for the past couple of years but just last night I made up a new one with a *distel* on the biner and an aluminum snap on the non adjustable end. It's about 16ft. long and I plan on using it not only as a lanyard but also frequently as a second climbing system on my bridge. Instead of a micro pulley I'm using a *double swivel *made for rotating hanging plants. This is the third rope change for this lanyard using the same snap and swivel. The first two used the vt but I'm going with the distel this time for compactness.



Thanks to *TreeCo* for posting a pic of his new lanyard. Full credit to him for giving me some great ideas for the following (see pic). 

I'd been using the Distel for quite sometime but was not happy with the slack tending. His double swivel gave me the idea of using the rope snap eye to tend. Adjusting the length, in or out, is as smooth as glass and the Distel grabs the lanyard perfectly. 

Finally, I think I can use a lanyard without using profanity ... *THANKS MAN!!!* ...


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## SINGLE-JACK (Dec 5, 2009)

TreeCo said:


> Hey I just may copy your snap idea!
> 
> As I plan on using mine as a second short climbing system and a lanyard with the second system using snaps and my main system using biners it would be easy to tell the two apart. *I doubt I'll go with stopper knots though....probably the double fishermans again*.



Yeah, the DFL's should work, too. I got the stopper idea from *outofmytree*'s post back in September. It was something picked up at a competition - approved by "the tech committee". I thought I'd give 'em a go ... seems to run smoother ... time will tell. 
I'd be interested in how it works for you.


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## Dutch295 (Dec 10, 2009)

Single-Jack & Treeco,
can I get a source / name of the cord you are using for your distel hitches? 
thanks


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## treemandan (Dec 10, 2009)

Wear out the mechanical rope grab on my lanyard? Really? Mine had been on there since 98. It looks fine. I will give it a good once over but how does it wear?


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## SINGLE-JACK (Dec 11, 2009)

Dutch295 said:


> Single-Jack & Treeco,
> can I get a source / name of the cord you are using for your distel hitches?
> thanks



I'm using a 9mm Prusik cord I bought off-the-shelf from *Sierra Moreno Mercantile Co*.

However, it is generally considered safe to use any static line rated for climbing that is 75-80% of the size your main line. Most of the sponsors that carry rope can supply line that is suitable for life support (Distel) use.


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## B_Turner (Dec 11, 2009)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> Thanks to *TreeCo* for posting a pic of his new lanyard. Full credit to him for giving me some great ideas for the following (see pic).
> 
> I'd been using the Distel for quite sometime but was not happy with the slack tending. His double swivel gave me the idea of using the rope snap eye to tend. Adjusting the length, in or out, is as smooth as glass and the Distel grabs the lanyard perfectly.
> 
> Finally, I think I can use a lanyard without using profanity ... *THANKS MAN!!!* ...



I carry two lanyards, and at least one of them must release under tension. When doing saddle work, then both of them release under tension. The knut tied with short legs works well for that with a mp for me.

After I learned to splice the ends of my lanyards I could never go back to that big knot at the rope snap. It catches when pulling it back out in tight crotches and is a pain.


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## voxac30dude (Dec 11, 2009)

just got my 8mm HRC prussick cord yestarday. now to figure out what style of hitch to use.


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## SINGLE-JACK (Dec 11, 2009)

B_Turner said:


> I carry *two lanyards*, and at least one of them must release under tension. When doing saddle work, then both of them release under tension. The knut tied with short legs works well for that with a mp for me.
> 
> After I learned to splice the ends of my lanyards I could never go back to that *big knot at the rope snap*. It catches when *pulling it back out in tight crotches and is a pain*.



Very good point!!! I've been using spliced laid rope on snaps 'til now on a DEDA lanyard (a la Tom Dunlap). This is just the first step in testing the hitch on a "ring" type tender system. If everything goes as well as it's going, I'll proceed with the DEDA version of this lanyard system. I'll need to get a longer hank of rope for that. Until then, I do not "_pull_" that "_big knot_" through "_tight crotches_" - I simply throw it back the way came - no PITA at all.


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## Dutch295 (Dec 11, 2009)

Thanks Single-Jack and TreeCo,
I noticed there is a West Marine about 45 minutes from me; I will check 'em out next time I'm over that way. I first tried a distel about 2 years ago with 10 mm tenex (sherrilltree) and really liked it and now use it whenever possible. Still use a blakes / backed up with an 8 for blocking but that's about the only time I get away from the distel. Will have to try it on a flip line ; never really thought about doing that. I just couldn't justify that price for the tenex, tried some other (inferior products) but just quite haven't found what I'm looking for so I really appreciate the info.


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## SINGLE-JACK (Jan 20, 2010)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> Very good point!!! I've been using spliced laid rope on snaps 'til now on a DEDA lanyard (a la *Tom Dunlap*). *This is just the first step in testing the hitch on a "ring" type tender system. If everything goes as well as it's going, I'll proceed with the DEDA version of this lanyard system.* I'll need to get a longer hank of rope for that. Until then, I do not "_pull_" that "_big knot_" through "_tight crotches_" - I simply throw it back the way came - no PITA at all.



*I did "proceed with the DEDA version of this lanyard system." And, I took TreeCo's advice and used the DFL's. So, here's the update:*



SINGLE-JACK said:


> :agree2:
> 
> I'm essentially with the two lanyard group. However, I extended the two lanyard approach to some development work by Tom Dunlap and TheTreeSpyder. I'm using their Double Ended, Double Adjusting (DEDA) approach. It's essentially two lanyards "joined" around the back. There's less hardware than with two lanyards. Plus, you can use virtually all the lanyard on either side. I use both sides on almost every climb - very versatile, easy to use and lighter.
> 
> ...


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## oldirty (Jan 20, 2010)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> Thanks to *TreeCo* for posting a pic of his new lanyard. Full credit to him for giving me some great ideas for the following (see pic).
> 
> I'd been using the Distel for quite sometime but was not happy with the slack tending. His double swivel gave me the idea of using the rope snap eye to tend. Adjusting the length, in or out, is as smooth as glass and the Distel grabs the lanyard perfectly.
> 
> Finally, I think I can use a lanyard without using profanity ... *THANKS MAN!!!* ...





hey. better idea for ya. (thanks tom dunlap) instead of running all that business of the rope snap use a swivel biner. 

that is the ultimate rope flip line setup.

i know there are a couple pics on this site of my system.

go to the thread "old school vs new school" too. good stuff on that thread.


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## Ghillie (Jan 20, 2010)

oldirty said:


> hey. better idea for ya. (thanks tom dunlap) instead of running all that business of the rope snap use a swivel biner.
> 
> that is the ultimate rope flip line setup.
> 
> ...



:agree2:

I was looking for your input OD! I was afraid you were going to make me look up which thread that was in!


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## Ghillie (Jan 20, 2010)

Something like this.


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## oldirty (Jan 20, 2010)

Ghillie said:


> Something like this.



there he is. coming through with the pics.

but yes that is the exact setup of which i speak.

minus the black cord. whats that extra cord on the rope for?

thanks ghillie!


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## Ghillie (Jan 21, 2010)

oldirty said:


> there he is. coming through with the pics.
> 
> but yes that is the exact setup of which i speak.
> 
> ...




The black cord is just accesory cord out of my rescue gear that I use to clip into the side of my saddle. Keeps the end and loop from hanging down around my feet when I'm only using 5' of the lanyard.

I switched to just a girth hitch from the accesory cord to the lanyard instead of a prussik hitch because of an incident with a traverse where I forgot to let out the daisy chain of the lanyard before I committed my weight to swinging to another branch.

Long, confusing story short, the accesory cord didn't slide and the 20' of lanyard I needed for the swing turned into 10' and I was hanging in midair with no way to get down. Unpleasant.


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## oldirty (Jan 21, 2010)

yah that sucks.


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## SINGLE-JACK (Jan 21, 2010)

oldirty said:


> hey. better idea for ya. (thanks tom dunlap) instead of running all that business of the rope snap use a *swivel biner*.
> 
> that is the ultimate rope flip line setup.
> 
> ...



Good idea, *oldirty* & *Ghillie*, THANKS (& rep)! ... I really like that swivel biner for tending a hitch on a single ended lanyard ... however, I've retired the single lanyard and moved on to a *DEDA Lanyard {link}*. It's working out really well (thanks *Tom Dunlap*, *TheTreeSpyder* & *TreeCo*)!


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## Ghillie (Jan 21, 2010)

Thanks, but the idea wasn't mine or OD's. Tom Dunlap came up with it. 

I usually use my climbing line as a secondary attachment when climbing so I don't often need a second lanyard. But I like the DEDA rig!

I will have to try it out!


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## Tom Dunlap (Jan 23, 2010)

My lanyard has New England Tech Cord tied with triple wrap scaffold hitches and a four up one down distel for adjustment.

I've milked down the slack in the tails too. Once you do there is no wasted motion when you pull down the hitch to the eye in the snap/biner. Mine has fractions of an inch so the play is minimal.


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## inbilya (Apr 28, 2015)

I tried to read this thread from begining to the end, but it's hard to follow , because images are no longer available. I suggest keeping the images, or deleting the whole thread. thanks


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## BC WetCoast (Apr 28, 2015)

Who the **** are you to be coming in here and making 'suggestions' when you clearly have no ****ing idea the past history of the site, how the site operates, who operates the site? Just for your edification, the site was severely hacked a couple of years ago and the the owner had to totally rebuilt it with new software. All the old threads were saved, but the pics were lost in the conversion.


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## inbilya (Apr 28, 2015)

BC WetCoast said:


> Who the **** are you to be coming in here and making 'suggestions' when you clearly have no ****ing idea the past history of the site, how the site operates, who operates the site? Just for your edification, the site was severely hacked a couple of years ago and the the owner had to totally rebuilt it with new software. All the old threads were saved, but the pics were lost in the conversion.


Thanks for your comments. I truly appreciate everything you wrote on the second line. I now realize I should've been more careful how I expressed myself. I also have to say , I like to be around people who speak the power of truth with humility. I've learned to respect them a lot. I also realize that on this site most people are tree cutters and chainsaw users.


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## jefflovstrom (Apr 28, 2015)

inbilya said:


> Thanks for your comments. I truly appreciate everything you wrote on the second line. I now realize I should've been more careful how I expressed myself. I also have to say , I like to be around people who speak the power of truth with humility. I've learned to respect them a lot. I also realize that on this site most people are tree cutters and chainsaw users.



If you want thick skin,,you found it,,,
Jeff


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## defensiblespace (May 9, 2015)

Yale makes a wire core prussik that you can buy from Wesspur. For me, it's the only way to go because we cut mostly conifers and the prussik doesn't seize up when it's gets pitch in it like my macroscender did.


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## Jack Evans (May 9, 2015)

Always preferred a prussic style knot on my flipline over a mechanical device. Just never seen the need for anything mechanical. Although I am not against mechanical devices climb on a zigzag and think its the best bit of kits I've bought in ages.


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