# Fiskars Super splitting axe review



## Butch(OH)

I have been splitting wood for 40 of my 50 years and had learned one thing (I thought) When the going gets tough, get a bigger/heavier tool. My old 8lb maul has logged a lot of miles. Seen you guys talk about Fiskars splitting axes and I tought ya right what do them Europeans know about splitting anything tough. I do like the quality of Fiskars stuff and since they don't make a 8 lb maul I bought one of those #7854 Super splitting axes yesterday. I can sum it up in one word, WOW. Only thing laying around here to test it on was some hackberry that I intended to cut up with a saw. We had beat on some of it previously and just piled it up for sawing later. Stood one up and gave it a couple whacks and split off a big slab. Thinking it was a fluke I grabbed my old 8lb and no go. Now the Fiskars will often not split the tough stuff on the first go, it is light but like all their tools VERY sharp. A few well placed hits will split wood that will leave you shaking your head. My son and I soon learned to not swing it like your trying to kill something and concentrate on aim and the darned thing will split some pretty tough blocks with little effort as compared to a std maul.

I give it a big thumbs up, it isn't going to split crotch oak but any reasonable splitting its going to do with lots less effort than a standard maul, I think it weighs around 4 lbs, I didnt weigh it. One complaint is the short handle. I like to split up off the ground and that short handle will cause the head to get an ankle if you are not careful. Id like to see a similar tool with 6" more handle myself.

Oh ya, was about 40 clams


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## jetskiman

my dad has one of those and it does work very good but I agree the handle could be longer


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## Richard_

another thumbs up here , nice and light


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## hickslawns

$40? Got one at Menards mis-marked for under $20. Might need to go try it out. Sounds like I got a good buy. Only thing I used the axe for lately was to tear up one of my rental houses for repairs. Didn't want to use the new axe for that one. Too many nails.


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## pdqdl

*Fiskars makes a great pruning saw too!*

I get them at Walmart, and they are my favorite pruning saw. Unlike all the rest of the professional pruning saws that have hundreds of tiny triangular teeth, these have notched teeth with an offset and a circular cutting face (not much different than chainsaw chain, actually) that uses the same 5/32 round file to sharpen as my MS 200T.

Cheap and practical, its greatest value is how easy it is to sharpen. It never seems to gum up on sawdust or tree sap, either.


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## Dalmatian90

I bought one a couple years ago...

1) I was amazed what it would split;

2) I promptly hung it up because it far exceeds my comfort zone. Maybe it was the shorter handle or something, I had enough "short misses" that landed near my feet in the first few logs I tried it on to decide it's danger exceeded my hand-eye coordination.

I keep looking at it wanting to use it some more...and have to keep reminding myself I like all my body parts.


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## strongback

Fiskars is getting a lot of electrons on AS today. 



> 2) I promptly hung it up because it far exceeds my comfort zone. Maybe it was the shorter handle or something, I had enough "short misses" that landed near my feet in the first few logs I tried it on to decide it's danger exceeded my hand-eye coordination.



I like mine alot. Especially the indestructable handle part. The swinging at your ankles thing is a common complaint and someone even had a thread on here about 4-6 months ago because he actually cut his foot with one. I got mine this past spring and used it to pile up more than 5 cords this summer. Unless your four-foot-tall, you've got to split on a sufficiently tall stump. The rule of thumb I've heard offered is that the top of the log to be split needs to be approx belt high. That's what I use and I've not lost any body parts nor have I had a close call. I've also bolted an old tire (I personally prefer a 17 inch truck tire) to the top of my stump so that if I happen to blow through a piece of wood faster than intended the tire can catch what the stump doesn't. You'd think the tire would make the maul bounce but it doesn't. I can swing the axe _at_ the tire and still not have to worry about rebound. So, get that thing off the pegboard and get to work!


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## ASEMASTER

*we have two*

I lost one and went out and got the longer handle version that same day only to find the first a week later. on the smaller and straight grained wood I dont even stand it up just walk around swinging and it will split most all that is in the way. or use it to pick up the wood to go no the hyd. spliter saves bending over and also saves on the hands grabbing ,as the joints are not what they used tobe.


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## excess650

I bought both the splitting axe and the much lighter chopping axe. I also have a maul, but haven't used it since getting the Fiskars. You wouldn't think the featherlight chopping axe would split, but it blasts through straight grained stuff. I suspect its the speed combined with the sharp edge that gets it done. If the chopping axe doesn't get it done, the splitting axe usually does. If it doesn't get the job done in a few swings, the chainsaw gets the duty.:censored: 

I've found that using a large round of oak for a splitting block lessens the worry about hitting myself with either Fiskars. Quite often, the split wood blasts away, and the Fiskars are stuck in the splitting block.

I highly recommend both of these!:spam:


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## AKKAMAAN

I like Fiskars quality tools, especially the 4 1/4 lbs splitting maul. Made a couple videos earler this year

Fiskars of the ground with a rubberband and a piece of rope

How I use rubber on smaller rounds on top of a chopping block


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## coog

I used mine the first time in New Mexico on some pine.It worked great.
Tried it when I got home on some Hickory...scary! It kept bouncing off the round, and with the short handle you couldn't control it.I must admit I am used to a Monster Maul, so I was probably over-swinging. I'll try it again on some other spcies.


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## Dalmatian90

> The rule of thumb I've heard offered is that the top of the log to be split needs to be approx belt high.



That makes a lot of sense thinking about it.

When I was splitting, I was just using a typical 18-20" high piece as the block.

Sounds like I should look for a nice, fat base to turn into a dedicated chopping block.


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## AOD

I love my Fiskars, the only complaint I have about it is I wish it had a 34" handle. I have had close calls with almost cutting my foot or shin on a missed swing, and its a bit scary. 28" is a bit short for someone over 6 feet with long arms. I also wish they made a bit heavier version of it to bust through tougher stuff, if there was a 6# version it would be unstoppable!


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## Elim

+1 Butch! They truly a great tool!


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## JTElectric

I bought one as well, the 7854 4 pounder. I think it's fantastic, I compared it to the old trusty Plumb we've had on the farm for years, and it seems to split better. Of course, in nice straight grained wood, anything will split that easily, but the Fiskars really shines in the tougher stuff in my opinion. Plus, the concave shaped head makes it so it very very seldom gets stuck in a log!

I was put-off by the short handle as well, and the first few times I used it, I had a couple near misses, and the pair of blue jeans I'm wearing right now has a nick in the cuff to prove it! Another inch or two would have been very bloody....I started splitting on a stump or a fat log as well, but then I learned an easier (better?) way....

Stand with your feet farther apart! lol I keep my feet pretty far apart, and focus more on aiming, rather than driving the log into the ground. Since then, I've never come close, I've only had the axe glance off of the log once, and I was swinging too hard, too close to the edge. Power isn't key with this axe, consistency is. It's actually weird how sometimes the wood will split where the axe ISN'T, it will break apart a half an inch from where they axe is. Never seen that before. 

I also picked up the little 14" Fiskars hatchet, I keep it with my chainsaws when I'm out cutting, it's razor sharp and makes it really nice to get rid of little bothersome branches when you're blocking out logs, or getting access to a tree! I HIGH:Y recommend any Fiskars (Or Gerber, same owners I think) Tools!


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## slofr8

All right already! I'll get one!!


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## archer39

i ordered mine yesterday, should be getting it tomrrow. Cant wait to try it out!


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## TreePointer

*I Cut My Foot!!!*



Dalmatian90 said:


> I bought one a couple years ago...
> 
> 1) I was amazed what it would split;
> 
> 2) I promptly hung it up because it far exceeds my comfort zone. Maybe it was the shorter handle or something, I had enough "short misses" that landed near my feet in the first few logs I tried it on to decide it's danger exceeded my hand-eye coordination.
> 
> I keep looking at it wanting to use it some more...and have to keep reminding myself I like all my body parts.



There may be prudence in your decision.

*I GOT MINE TODAY AND PROMPTLY CUT MY FOOT!!!* 

I finished my day of cutting over a half cord of sugar maple with the chainsaw, so I decided to try the Fiskars Super Splitter that FEDEX delivered today. Went out to the white ash pile, *didn't place the log on a big block*, and split the first piece in half--Wow! I took a second swing to quarter the log, and it split the log, went into my thick leather boot (above the steel toe), through two pairs of socks and cut a 1" gash on the top of my arch. 

After visiting the ER and 4 stitches later, I am here writing about it. I was very fortunate that there was no important tissue damage and the X-rays showed no bone damage.

I like the splitter, but it is dangerous if one doesn't follow the tips here (that I knew and should have followed). Elevate your target log on a block. Feet apart. No big arcing swings are necessary--shorter downward chops into the target log may be safer.

And I'm usually the one stressing safety to friends and co-workers!!! Even though I'm upset with myself for doing it, I think it's a reminder to keep myself humble before all my tools. Again, I was lucky.


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## southbound

Sorry to hear it!!! Hope you are alright too..

I am 6 foot 2 and I set the round to be split on a big maple round. I have it set so when the Fiskars goes strait though the round it goes in the maple round a inch or two... Right dead center too...

Good luck and be careful...


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## TreePointer

Thanks, _southbound_. 

I'm feeling OK. Surprisingly, it doesn't hurt, but here is a little discomfort from the skin being stretched for stitches. I'll have to be off it for a few days, but that's it. If all goes well, the stitches come out in ten days. I do plan on using the Fiskars, but I will be much more careful. It might have to be locked in the gun safe, too, because my brothers and nephews like to split wood when they visit. 

I went to a local Irish pub with my family after the ER visit. They all gave me a good (deserved) ribbing for my incident. Pretty good fish and chips, too.


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## pdqdl

You guys are making that Fiskars splitting axe sound like it just falls through the wood! It can't be that good. 

_By the way, where you get them at?_


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## JTElectric

Wow, that's too bad treepointer! Like I said, I picked it up and started using it like the old faithful Plumb we've had for years, I can never remember that ever coming close to my feet....but there's a nick in my boot as well, and my pant leg! I was working hard to slow it down, I was waiting for blood, I got lucky!

I have had no problems since I have altered my stance, slowed my swing down a little, and concentrated on aiming! Also, if the wood is about to come apart, I just really ease into it. I'm self employed, so I don't get sick days! Good luck with the axe! 


And PS, no, they don't quite fall through the wood, but in some stuff, you just shake your head and saw "WOW, I love this axe!"


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## TreePointer

The local Sears only carried the 2.25 lb. Fiskars Pro Splitting Axe, so I ordered the 4 lb. "Super" from Amazon.com (free shipping).


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## AKKAMAAN

TreePointer said:


> *I GOT MINE TODAY AND PROMPTLY CUT MY FOOT!!!*



First to be *safe*...use the bungy rope method in my movie.....pieces dont fall down after split.....Second to be *safer*...hit the log on the "opposite" side, so you have most of the log between you and the axe...Third, to be *safest*...bundle several smaller rounds together with the bungy rope, and make a "big round". 
_If you hit smaller rounds one by one you risk to hit yourself , if you miss...._
So hit all your small rounds as many times as you want, without picking any up from the ground....
And dont forget, *Hit the opposite side of the big round......*
See what I mean by watching my youtube video





*Stay safe, safer, safest*


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## Butch(OH)

pdqdl said:


> You guys are making that Fiskars splitting axe sound like it just falls through the wood! It can't be that good.
> 
> _By the way, where you get them at?_



"It can't be that good."??

Havent even had to swing it that last few days, just leave it standing in the corner of the woodshed. I leave a few big rounds there every night and wake up to split and stacked stovewood.


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## JTElectric

Hahaha if you have a Fiskars Axe and a MS361, you don't even have to leave your house! The 361 drives the truck, finds the wood, and cuts it while the Fiskars splits and loads it!


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## TreePointer

AKKAMAAN said:


> First to be *safe*...use the bungy rope method in my movie.....pieces dont fall down after split.....Second to be *safer*...hit the log on the "opposite" side, so you have most of the log between you and the axe...Third, to be *safest*...bundle several smaller rounds together with the bungy rope, and make a "big round".
> _If you hit smaller rounds one by one you risk to hit yourself , if you miss...._
> So hit all your small rounds as many times as you want, without picking any up from the ground....
> And dont forget, *Hit the opposite side of the big round......*
> See what I mean by watching my youtube video
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stay safe, safer, safest*



You are correct, but I had read all the tips here and on other sites and watched the movies. I simply went out to try it on a couple medium sized rounds before it got dark. The biggest problem was that I didn't compensate for the shorter length of the axe (I usually split with a much longer 8# maul). For the big rounds in your video, it seems that the axe swinger compensates for the Fiskars' shorter handle by using his back to extend the reach of the handle and lengthen the swinging arc--bigger arc means the axe head's path of travel would go into the ground farther away from the feet. I think that's why folks wish it had a longer handle.


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## Vangellis

JTElectric said:


> Hahaha if you have a Fiskars Axe and a MS361, you don't even have to leave your house! The 361 drives the truck, finds the wood, and cuts it while the Fiskars splits and loads it!



Good one. LOL

Hope you heal well Treepointer.

I got the Fiskars this spring and think it does real well. I'm a smaller guy so the lighter weight for me helps a lot. Plus I'm closer to the ground so the danger is less, and I put it up on a block. Once you get your swing down, it's the berries.








Kevin


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## fbh31118

*Is it really the design?*

Fiskars in general make great stuff and I'm not knocking it a bit. I was just wondering as I was reading this thread, though, is it Fiskars superior tool that is the secret or maybe that we are just trying a lighter tool for the job. Maybe that's why there standard sizes are smaller, they don't want you to go overboard on weight? I've probably split more this year than I ever have in my life and I've noticed that I've been grabing my single bit more than the splitting maul or my ChopperOne. I've been doing mostly red oak and black walnut and the single bit axe seems to be less work and more productive. I think who ever mentioned being more accurate with a lighter tool is on to it for the most part. Have to admit, that splitting axe looks really nice! jmho


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## AKKAMAAN

Work like this to prevent accidents. Use chopping block if you prefere to.
I bundle 3 pieces 10-12" each, it takes just a moment to split it all into small pieces. Very important the smaller rounds you have to split. I've had 15-20 smaller ones in a bundle on top of my 22" chopping block. Never had to pick up a single piece from the ground while splitting.opcorn:


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## AKKAMAAN

fbh31118 said:


> ...is it Fiskars superior tool that is the secret or maybe that we are just trying a lighter tool for the job...


 
First...fiskars have like the other scandinavian brands, DEEP tradition in steel, SKF, Sandvik, Boliden, Bacho(Snap On Today) etc etc, are all from very old Swedish iron mining culture. I would say the finest iron ore in the world.
Second...Scandinavians have made steel and iron tools (and weapons) for almost 1000 years. GREAT Disign, look at Fiskars scissors....razor sharp and easy to sharpen.
Third...If you can double the axe speed from taking half weight of, you still double the SPLITTING FORCE
Fourth... there is a trend, people have discoverd the power of optimized weighted swing tools, thats what's spreading around here at this site...
Fifth...warranty and liability, and maintenance, Nothing is more outstanding than, "IMPOSSIBLE" to break and a razor sharp tool 
Sixth...Honestly,I think you can make the same job with a similar designed axe for half price from CHINAopcorn:


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## mole1982

Where can I get 1??? Lowes, Homedepot??????


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## Richard_

mole1982 said:


> Where can I get 1??? Lowes, Homedepot??????



I bought mine at Home Depot


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## sixminus1

I have the chopping axe and the super splitting axe. Using them safely required me to do a lot of what was already mentioned, mostly because the handle is shorter:

1. Raise the round up a little higher
2. Stand closer to the round
3. Hit the center, or the far side of the round -- use the wood to block that sharp axe head from getting anywhere near your legs.
4. Let the axe do the work for you -- don't try to muscle it through any pieces. This will just result in a slip and an injury.

The danger for me was being so used to swinging a heavy maul. The lighter weight of the Fiskars tools fooled me into thinking that I'd have to wind up for a bigger swing. I quickly found out that the splitting axe does a great job with about half of the effort, as long as I worked with it, instead of trying to force it to work with me.


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## fbh31118

AKKAMAAN said:


> First...fiskars have like the other scandinavian brands, DEEP tradition in steel, SKF, Sandvik, Boliden, Bacho(Snap On Today) etc etc, are all from very old Swedish iron mining culture. I would say the finest iron ore in the world.
> Second...Scandinavians have made steel and iron tools (and weapons) for almost 1000 years. GREAT Disign, look at Fiskars scissors....razor sharp and easy to sharpen.
> Third...If you can double the axe speed from taking half weight of, you still double the SPLITTING FORCE
> Fourth... there is a trend, people have discoverd the power of optimized weighted swing tools, thats what's spreading around here at this site...
> Fifth...warranty and liability, and maintenance, Nothing is more outstanding than, "IMPOSSIBLE" to break and a razor sharp tool
> Sixth...Honestly,I think you can make the same job with a similar designed axe for half price from CHINAopcorn:



Ok, hold up, here's what I said earlier; "Fiskars in general make great stuff and I'm not knocking it a bit." I wasn't suggesting that there tool isn't superior for the job that it does, only that there choice in size has more to do with it's effectiveness, also as you mentioned in the third and forth points.:agree2: As a matter of fact, I'll be looking for one to try in the future now that I have seen the picture that someone posted earlier. 

I also want to try one of these, looks like it uses a similar priciple as the fiskars with a narrow start at edge and fluted at the handle. You may want to check the tag for where it's made, not sure if it's U.S. or not. I have an Ames True Temper in a single bit and have been very happy over all.


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## chad3

Haven't tried mine yet that I got for Xmas. I've heard alot of good and bad stuff about these, makes me sure that I will use lots of caution!!! I've used mostly the monster maul from Sotz (old school 17 lb'er), as well as the splitter. I'll have to get a very high block to split on, we'll see how this works.
5'8" so I may not be as far away as some.


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## Richard_

fbh31118 said:


> I also want to try one of these, looks like it uses a similar priciple as the fiskars with a narrow start at edge and fluted at the handle. You may want to check the tag for where it's made, not sure if it's U.S. or not. I have an Ames True Temper in a single bit and have been very happy over all.



I have both , and prefer the Fiskars , the big one is good for bigger wood , but I haven't found any thing the Fiskars can't handle , and the Ames True Temper is made in CHINA


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## Techstuf

Made in China.......LOL


Probably has lead in it. One good whack and and it mushrooms.



TS


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## Peacock

I thoroughly cracked the handle on my True Temper axe shown in the above posts. It felt 'funny' all the sudden and I looked at it and it was spider webbed all over the business end of the handle.

Went to Lowes and they called True Temper. They are sending one directly to my house for free. 

Other than that...it's ok. It splits frozen wood like a champ, but the flimsy handle and it's ability to get stuck in every piece it doesn't split make me dislike it.


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## PaulinNY

*axe*

I used that Ames super splitter in the photo for a year or two before getting a splitter. Worked much better than my other axes. I do have a small hand fiskars hand axe for camping though. The Ames has an great replacement warranty though. I had to use it once. Free shipping too.


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## Scrapiron

*Fiskars Super Splitter*

I got one at the Ace Outlet website and have been using it for a little under a month. What everyone says is about right- it splits most anything and I'm a lot less tired (than swinging my 8# maul). 

It is razor sharp and I've cut myself already.  I have started using a taller round to split with as well as put an old tire around it (the round) to avoid any mis-cues. Overall I'd say it is a good deal for the quality of the axe and how it saves me time. 

I'm 6'3" and the shorter handle doesn't bother me as much as I suspected. You do have to change how you split wood a bit, but again, I'm more efficient and less tired after a few hours of splitting.


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## angelo c

I agree with Peacock, 
I like mine more on the lighter smaller splits because it's easier to pinpoint your hits, however I prefer the maul when it's splitting real rounds. I don't like that the "fiskars" gets stuck constantly in the big stuff. I use both but if the maul broke I would immediately replace it where I would eventually get to replacing the fiskars...
Angelo


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## myzamboni

Techstuf said:


> Made in China.......LOL
> 
> 
> Probably has lead in it. One good whack and and it mushrooms.
> 
> 
> 
> TS



You would think, but I put mine through a nail and it only left a tiny knick in the blade.


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## michael j

I picked up a fiskars. Obviously noones splittin' the same elm, oak and narly maples that I am. I used it for 10 mins. and hung it on the wall. 

Mike


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## Dalmatian90

Ok, using some of the suggestions hear I've been using my Fiskars cautiously again.

Last two days I've spent an hour a day whacking away at a large ash -- probably about 24" diameter since by Stihl 039 with a 20" bar couldn't go through it from just one side  It's been down about three years courtesy of the State widening the road in front of my house, and this is one of the last and by far biggest pieces from that collection.

The biggest thing I find is I aim the axe on the wood first, then only lift a bit more then head height, and come down square. It's definitely not the John Henry driving blow I use with a maul usually.

1) I need absolute concentration. I still managed twice to be closer then comfort, but I'm not in abject fear of my toes any more.

2) One piece that I just couldn't get a purchase point made with my maul to use a wedge-and-sledge the Fiskars made a nice spot to pop in a wedge to split the log in half.

3) Once the logs were in half, the Fiskars made a nice starting crack at least. I'd make three or four cracks in the half log, then use the maul to split them off. Then a few more cracks to finish up the quarter log and maul it into pieces. Many of these were still too big for my stove, but the Fiskars then made short work of turning those into really nice sized hunks.

4) It'll be nice once I'm back up to my fighting form  Haven't had to split any wood in a couple years even though I enjoy doing it for recreation. And it's cheaper then a gym  Best health I was ever in was one summer living at my sister's, I'd come home from the white collar job and go up on the hill where there was a landing full of tree tops. Got to the point I was doing about a quarter cord in a couple hours -- from pulling a tree into position with tow straps and chains with my S-10, cut it, split it by hand, load it, haul it down to the barn, and maybe get some help from my nieces stacking it there.


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## Techstuf

Take a look here at Brian Gray:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7Dw8MMxqG0


He powers through that big knotty piece and gives credit to the 'Chopper 1'....
He just don't know his own strength, I'm a thinkin.


TS


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## willsaw4beer

It looked to me like that piece was pretty punky...


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## Techstuf

Yes, as well evidenced by the side levers penetrating deeply into the piece. Some of the toughest pieces I've split, were punky dead elm. I'd take a Fiskars Super Splitter over the 'chopper 1' any day.


TS


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## LTREES

:agree2:


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## Rickochet

I just received my new Fiskars Super from Amazon and split a few rounds. What a difference!!!!!!!:wave:


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## rngrchad

*Fiskars.*

I've split about 8 cords with my fiskars. I have the pro-splitting axe and the super-splitting axe. I've broke two of them. DO NOT use the adze (hammer side) end of the axes to drive steel wedges! The handles will break and you will experience the worst vibration pains you've ever felt. These are a great tool for those who split by hand. They do not replace the hickory handled traditional splitting axes however as they are not near as versatile for driving wedges etc. I really really love my FISKARS. I can swing the 2 1/4 lb pro-splitting fiskars all day long. If you only buy one Fiskars...buy the Super Splitting Axe. Slightly bigger then the pro but splits bigger rounds much much better.

http://www.fiskars.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?storeId=10001&langId=-1&q=axe&baseLibrary=Garden&showOnly=products


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## Philbert

michael j said:


> I picked up a fiskars. Obviously noones splittin' the same elm, oak and narly maples that I am. I used it for 10 mins. and hung it on the wall.
> 
> Mike



Mail it to me - I will reimburse you for postage.

Philbert


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## Philbert

AKKAMAAN said:


> I like Fiskars quality tools, especially the 4 1/4 lbs splitting maul. Made a couple videos earler this year



Thanks for the videos and the bungie idea. You make the rounds look like a 'blooming onion' - they could use you at the Outback Steakhouse!

Philbert


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## leiterch

I must say that I am thoroughly impressed with the fiskars axe. I am new to the OWB and wood cutting process, but I can't figure it should be this easy. I have some 2' pcs of oak that we cut this summer and this thing knocks em out. I can't just whack it in the middle I have to work around, but it does the trick. I was actually swinging way too hard at first. It was just flying through the wood. I will def purchase a couple different brands to experiment. I have learned so much this year it isn't funny. I was actually late in getting my wood and stove hooked up so I have had about 2+ feet of snow to deal with all year. Hardly any of my wood got stacked so I have had to dig it out of the pile. Fun. I have really enjoyed each night splitting wood. As I have been reading and totally understand. It is addictive.  Enough babbling.


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## rngrchad

leiterch said:


> I must say that I am thoroughly impressed with the fiskars axe. I am new to the OWB and wood cutting process, but I can't figure it should be this easy. I have some 2' pcs of oak that we cut this summer and this thing knocks em out. I can't just whack it in the middle I have to work around, but it does the trick. I was actually swinging way too hard at first. It was just flying through the wood. I will def purchase a couple different brands to experiment. I have learned so much this year it isn't funny. I was actually late in getting my wood and stove hooked up so I have had about 2+ feet of snow to deal with all year. Hardly any of my wood got stacked so I have had to dig it out of the pile. Fun. I have really enjoyed each night splitting wood. As I have been reading and totally understand. It is addictive.  Enough babbling.



I split 6 rounds tonight during sundown. Those fiskars are great. Just watch your shins. I wish mine were a few inches longer. I would hate to be any taller than 5'9 using these things. It makes me feel less odd seeing someone else say they also enjoy splitting wood. There is something extremely satisfying about it. Almost addictive. I always have a few rounds laying around to split before I come in for the night.....just makes me sleep better for some weird reason.


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## RedShift42

It seems almost unanimous that we'd like a longer handle, [EDIT] _based on those who were interested enough to post a follow-up_
That's valuable marketing information for Fiskars. Take a moment to drop them a line, given enough interest it's very possible we could see another model added to their line.

Here's a link to their customer feedback form:
http://www.fiskars.com/content/garden_en_us/Garden/contactus/contactrequestform

This is the email I sent them this morning:


> Hello,
> I love Fiskars' Super Splitting Axe, it's a superb tool. However, those of us of larger stature would very much appreciate a longer handle. Please seriously consider offering one; I suspect you'd sell plenty.
> 
> The following link is from a discussion on ArboristSite.com, probably the foremost online forum for arborists and serious firewood handlers. Note how the ensuing discussion focuses on the S.S.Axe's handle length and the near unanimous agreement that a longer handle would be appreciated. I think this sizable crowd would quickly find the addition of a longer handle model to be the perfect splitting tool.
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=81221&highlight=fiskars
> 
> Regards,




-Eric S.


----------



## Techstuf

I emailed 'em. Was told they get that all the time and they might look into it.


BS


I'm sure they've been hearing it for years and aren't about to retool. I thought the Nordic peoples were big like us? If so, then why is it made for the stature of asian and hispanic peoples?

I sure would hate to find out the shorter handle is all about the life time warranty....maybe they figure it wouldn't hold up with the longer handle?

As far as I'm concerned, the handle length is the only thing keeping it from fully deserving the word 'super' in the title. Give us 3 or 4 measly inches and I wouldn't hesitate to call it super.


TS


----------



## BlackCatBone

I am a fan of the SS axe. My technique to keep the axe from my feet and shins is to take a wider stance and bend my knees when the axe comes down to the wood's level. This puts a lot of power behind the swing so you have to exert less effort with your arms and shoulders. It also lowers the center of the axes path which makes it less likely to rotate into the foot/shin area. There have been several excellent suggestions too.

If there was one with the longer handle and maybe an extra half pound or so I'd be in line to get one.


----------



## Philbert

Techstuf said:


> I'm sure they've been hearing it for years and aren't about to retool. I thought the Nordic peoples were big like us? If so, then why is it made for the stature of asian and hispanic peoples?



Maybe they have a different perspective on 'proper splitting technique"? 

Not trying to start a feud here on what that is, but your comment made me think of Japanese woodworking chisels and saws that are different from western style tools, because of the way that they are used in Japanese culture. Just like there appear to be differences in felling techniques between east coast and west coast loggers in this forum.

Of course, if they wanted to to sell more over here . . .

I bought one of the current ones on sale today, mostly due to the positive posts in this thread. I will keep the handle length in mind as I use it.

Philbert


----------



## AKKAMAAN

opcorn:


Techstuf said:


> I thought the Nordic peoples were big like us? If so, then why is it made for the stature of asian and hispanic peoples?
> 
> I sure would hate to find out the shorter handle is all about the life time warranty....maybe they figure it wouldn't hold up with the longer handle?
> 
> As far as I'm concerned, the handle length is the only thing keeping it from fully deserving the word 'super' in the title. Give us 3 or 4 measly inches and I wouldn't hesitate to call it super.
> 
> 
> TS


Ever heard about the VIKINGS...big swedes and danes...actually scandinavians are bigger than americans in average....
BUT...here is the deal...In scandinavia we don't split 24+inch rounds very often....not even 12+ inches is very common.... firewood logs average about 6-8 inches diameter....so there is a differens in "firewood culture"....
Logging industri is paying good money for everything over 2" diameter, if you can provide at least a third truck load (1 large stack about 500cubft)....so there is not a huge supply of big diameter logs......like it is here...Fiskars(Fin)and Gränsfors(Swe) etc are companies with deep, 100´s of years, tradition in forged and cast iron....so asking them for longer handles is like asking US to convert to metric system....it will take some conciderations...
oh well it´s not that bad, I´m sure they will respond positively on a strong demand from US...
About the life time warranty....i´m sure they Fiskars can stick to it, even on a 36" handle....it´s that good....opcorn:


----------



## Northland

After reading this post and watching Akkamaan's video I just ordered the Fiskars Super Splitter from an Ace EBay store.

Last year I cut down several very old yellow birch trees. The fibre was like meat and seems to run in every direction. Splitting those big old trees with my 6 and 8 lb mauls was time consuming, exhausting and frustrating. I didn't have that problem in years past while splitting the maple I normally burn. I borrowed an old gas powered splitter from a friend to take care of most of the them.

Before I buy a 3 pt splitter that will run off my tractor I wanted to try the Fiskars axe. I heat much of my home with a Vermont made Hearthstone soapstone woodstove and go through up to ten cords per year.

I use a Kubota B7800 30HP tractor with a bucket grapple along with slingchokers and now 100ft of Amsteel Blue 1/4" rope with snatch blocks to get my wood out of the forest. I use a Husky 365 to cut and buck my wood. 

This week I am starting to cut down my dead maples. Beside being easy to split the maple burns much hotter.

I now use this method to minimize the picking up of the pieces of my splits. It-it really works well.

http://www.woodheat.org/firewood/splittingblocksandtires.htm

I am going to try Akkamann's bunjie cord/rope trick too


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Northland said:


> After reading this post and watching Akkamaan's video I just ordered the Fiskars Super Splitter from an Ace EBay store.
> 
> Last year I cut down several very old yellow birch trees. The fibre was like meat and seems to run in every direction. Splitting those big old trees with my 6 and 8 lb mauls was time consuming, exhausting and frustrating. I didn't have that problem in years past while splitting the maple I normally burn. I borrowed an old gas powered splitter from a friend to take care of most of the them.
> 
> Before I buy a 3 pt splitter that will run off my tractor I wanted to try the Fiskars axe. I heat much of my home with a Vermont made Hearthstone soapstone woodstove and go through up to ten cords per year.
> 
> I use a Kubota B7800 30HP tractor with a bucket grapple along with slingchokers and now 100ft of Amsteel Blue 1/4" rope with snatch blocks to get my wood out of the forest. I use a Husky 365 to cut and buck my wood.
> 
> This week I am starting to cut down my dead maples. Beside being easy to split the maple burns much hotter.
> 
> I now use this method to minimize the picking up of the pieces of my splits. It-it really works well.
> 
> http://www.woodheat.org/firewood/splittingblocksandtires.htm
> 
> I am going to try Akkamann's bunjie cord/rope trick too



Thanks Northland, for the credit!
Yes, thats all i'm asking! Just try to wrap a bungy cord aroung your round, or bundle several smaller rounds, as much as fit on your chopping block. To save your legs and knees, make sure you hit on the "backside" of the round or bundle, chop while walking sideways around the chopping block, and I prommise you improve your safety.
Good Luck, and please post a video of your splitting with your new Fiskars.

Per A
AKKAMAAN, aw come on....


----------



## KFC

I had my doubts about the Fiskars axe, bought one six months ago and will never swing a heavy maul type axe again. Just keep them feet spread apart when swinging.


----------



## KeyStep

I bought this winter the Fiskar Super Splitting Axe at Menards as well and now I have three for everyone. I typically hand split over 30 full cords of hardwood a year. As far as I am concerned it has retired my other 6lb and 8lb mauls. I still use the 12Lb Monster maul occasionally or my 16 ton 3pt but this axe is a real breakthrough design and it has doubled my usual output. However, if you cannot swing it fast with accuracy you will not be that impressed. As a general rule use a maul that isn’t too heavy for you, swinging a heavy maul will wear you out. Speed compensates for mass so a splitting tool needs to match its power source. Make sure with this Fiskars Axe you wear safety shoes with steel toes as the speed of the axe can get pretty scary.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

KeyStep said:


> Make sure with this Fiskars Axe you wear safety shoes with steel toes as the speed of the axe can get pretty scary.


Good call about the safety shoes!!

This AKKAMAAN technique prevents dangerous miss hits....*See picture*....*and my video*....





Wrap a *bungy cord *around a big round, that way it will not fall apart while splitting. 
If you have smaller rounds, use the *bungy cord * around a bundle of them, split them all and carry them all toghether to the stack

Heavy big rounds can be split on the ground, other wise always use a *chopping block* for all splitting

*Stay Safe, Safer, Safest*


----------



## blis

just have to watch with that technique of yours that you dont beat the "throat" of the axe in to pulp... 

And once again about that axe lenght, its good for even tall ppl but the big trick is that over there you keep the rounds on *ground* when splitting, here they are usually placed atop the stump of tree or we cut a lenght of wood (some 50cm or so) to place them on, that way theres no need for so long handles....


----------



## KFC

I noticed the Fiskars axe (all sizes) are cheaper on Amazon.com, they even have a three axe special.


----------



## TreePointer

First, let me state that I like my Fiskars SS axe and use it. 

The handle length does create difficulty for taller folk. Yes, yes, I know about different swings and elevating rounds onto a block, but these safety solutions create ergonomic/form problems.

You want the *momentum* gained from the *swing* and *wrist snap* to blast the round and you don't want to be *applying force* with your body *at the moment of impact*. If your body is still applying force at impact, that is when you damage your joints (shoulder, elbows). 

Elevating rounds to stop the arc of travel from passing the level of your lower legs/feet often eliminates good wrist snap (which gives extra power and saves joints). Also, you waste work energy in elevating rounds that otherwise could be tipped up on end and whacked on the ground.

Now, if you tip rounds on end to save work, the shorter axe creates more bad form. To make a greater arc of travel with the shorter handle, you must lean out over the round more with your torso/back. This is bad form and is bad for the back.


----------



## Northland

blis said:


> there you keep the rounds on *ground* when splitting, here they are usually placed atop the stump of tree or we cut a lenght of wood (some 50cm or so) to place them on, that way theres no need for so long handles....



Suomilaine, we always split our wood on a block but maybe that's because my mother and father came from Finland.

I would think without the block the ground would absorb too much of the energy of the axe.

Marko Koskenoja


----------



## blis

Northland said:


> Suomilaine, we always split our wood on a block but maybe that's because my mother and father came from Finland.
> 
> I would think without the block the ground would absorb too much of the energy of the axe.
> 
> Marko Koskenoja





TreePointer said:


> First, let me state that I like my Fiskars SS axe and use it.
> 
> The handle length does create difficulty for taller folk. Yes, yes, I know about different swings and elevating rounds onto a block, but these safety solutions create ergonomic/form problems.
> 
> You want the *momentum* gained from the *swing* and *wrist snap* to blast the round and you don't want to be *applying force* with your body *at the moment of impact*. If your body is still applying force at impact, that is when you damage your joints (shoulder, elbows).
> 
> Elevating rounds to stop the arc of travel from passing the level of your lower legs/feet often eliminates good wrist snap (which gives extra power and saves joints). Also, you waste work energy in elevating rounds that otherwise could be tipped up on end and whacked on the ground.
> 
> Now, if you tip rounds on end to save work, the shorter axe creates more bad form. To make a greater arc of travel with the shorter handle, you must lean out over the round more with your torso/back. This is bad form and is bad for the back.



Now, this is where we again get to different forms, for myself when splitting tough blocks i begin my swing with axe head *behind* my back, with axe head facing almost downwards, when the axe head gets close to hitting the block i twist my wrists a little and loosen my grip just a bit to prevent that impact to joints youre talking about, so, with my technique the handle lenght is perfect  


Northland, so you're second generation fin? Nice to see you ppl still remember your roots over there, any of you still speak finnish?


----------



## Techstuf

> If your body is still applying force at impact, that is when you damage your joints (shoulder, elbows).




Where were you a few days ago! I could have used that important reminder just before I got exuberant and tore my supraspinatus!


TS


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## Vangellis

I don't know if using the lighter Fiskars ax helped but....

Two years ago I started having bad pain in my left elbow. Wearing an elbow band and some medication helped and it eventually went away. Last year the same thing happened again, but in my right elbow. Same cures and result.
I did most of my splitting by hand with a maul, sledges and wedges. I'm not a big guy, so it's tough duty.
This past season I started to quarter the larger rounds with the chainsaw for the first time. I also picked up a Fiskars super splitter. 
I believe I'm more productive than before, but also.....no problems with the elbow pain this year. Again, I'm not sure if it's because of the lighter tool, but some food for thought.















Kevin


----------



## Northland

blis said:


> Northland, so you're second generation fin? Nice to see you ppl still remember your roots over there, any of you still speak finnish?



Yes blis, my 3 brothers and sister all spoke Finnish but become less fluent as we grew older due to a lack of use. We still speak Finnish at family gatherings though. My parents came her from Forssa in 1950. We lived in a Finnish community and didn't speak a lot of English until we went to school.

There are many Finns in Northern Ontario and Northern Michigan.


----------



## Northland

Vangellis said:


> Kevin



Thanks for the positive review and great photos Kevin


----------



## nocdpc

*First Swings with the Fiskars*

It is sharp and light. I think this axe is more efficient then a 8lb maul as you can achieve more axe speed, the axe is generally sharper then most, and the axe is lighter. I have to do more field work for a solid review but here is a show for you all on my first swings. I like the axe overall.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80N9nojggOk


----------



## SawTroll

AOD said:


> I love my Fiskars, the only complaint I have about it is I wish it had a 34" handle. I have had close calls with almost cutting my foot or shin on a missed swing, and its a bit scary. 28" is a bit short for someone over 6 feet with long arms. I also wish they made a bit heavier version of it to bust through tougher stuff, if there was a 6# version it would be unstoppable!





Vangellis said:


> Good one. LOL
> 
> Hope you heal well Treepointer.
> 
> I got the Fiskars this spring and think it does real well. I'm a smaller guy so the lighter weight for me helps a lot. Plus I'm closer to the ground so the danger is less, and I put it up on a block. Once you get your swing down, it's the berries.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin




I love them as well!

My older ones are more than 10 years old, no maintenanse except sharpening now and then.

A longer handle would be nice some times, but I usually put the wood to be split on a 24" or so block anyway, and then it is not a problem. 

I also use steel-toed boots when splitting, based on experience...:jawdrop:


----------



## vwboomer

I always split on a round - usually about 16" off the ground. Partially because I split on my cement driveway or steel deck trailer. Even if I was on grass I would never go without a block. How long you think it's going to stay sharp diggin it into the ground?


----------



## fourapples

*Rebuilt Chopper 1*

With all the fuss about splitting mauls and axes I have rehandled and sharpened my old Chopper 1 splitting axe. I really like it as I can split rounds on the ground. The pivoting wedges keep it from passing thru the split at high speed which is safer. Problem is when springs break off, I remember this but they are cheap at the hardware store and I have not had any break off lately. I am over 6' so I chose not to get the Fiskars axe because I like to split rounds on the ground where they lay. Just my 2 bits.


----------



## thombat4

nocdpc said:


> It is sharp and light. I think this axe is more efficient then a 8lb maul as you can achieve more axe speed, the axe is generally sharper then most, and the axe is lighter. I have to do more field work for a solid review but here is a show for you all on my first swings. I like the axe overall.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80N9nojggOk



Nice splitting there pal Ever since I bought a Fiskars I haven't used my electric splitter at all. This is a lot more fun.


----------



## nocdpc

vwboomer said:


> I always split on a round - usually about 16" off the ground. Partially because I split on my cement driveway or steel deck trailer. Even if I was on grass I would never go without a block. How long you think it's going to stay sharp diggin it into the ground?




The boy scout method taught us to split on the ground and at the base of the wood to be split put a halfcut piece of split wood for the axe to bury into and not the ground. This will help to not diginto the ground as well when using a axe of any kind for that matter.


----------



## Carlyle

My review of the Fiskars SS is not very good. For me the short handle is the biggest problem, which in turn renders it useless to me. I will swing it a couple times a year just to remind myself that I really don't like it. Also I don't get the same pop out of the wood as I do my maul. I use the Stihl PA 80, coming in at 6.6 lbs. I like the hickory handle on the PA 80 dampening a good bit of vibration.


----------



## nocdpc

Carlyle said:


> My review of the Fiskars SS is not very good. For me the short handle is the biggest problem, which in turn renders it useless to me. I will swing it a couple times a year just to remind myself that I really don't like it. Also I don't get the same pop out of the wood as I do my maul. I use the Stihl PA 80, coming in at 6.6 lbs. I like the hickory handle on the PA 80 dampening a good bit of vibration.




I am 5 '9 so it is perfect for me. I imagine if a maul had a sharp edge like the fiskars it would be just as good. But you cannot beat the lifetime warranty and the weight.


----------



## splittingkid

excess650 said:


> I bought both the splitting axe and the much lighter chopping axe. I also have a maul, but haven't used it since getting the Fiskars. You wouldn't think the featherlight chopping axe would split, but it blasts through straight grained stuff. I suspect its the speed combined with the sharp edge that gets it done. If the chopping axe doesn't get it done, the splitting axe usually does. If it doesn't get the job done in a few swings, the chainsaw gets the duty.:censored:
> 
> I've found that using a large round of oak for a splitting block lessens the worry about hitting myself with either Fiskars. Quite often, the split wood blasts away, and the Fiskars are stuck in the splitting block.
> 
> I highly recommend both of these!:spam:



hi i am a 13 year old kid 5 foot three and have been splitting wood for a while with the ol' sledge hammer and wedge. I have finally decided to http://www.arboristsite.com/images/smilies/greenchainsaw.gifgo with the fiskars axe do you think it is a good choice and if possible any tips?:greenchainsaw::greenchainsaw::greenchainsaw::greenchainsaw:


----------



## splittingkid

SawTroll said:


> I love them as well!
> 
> My older ones are more than 10 years old, no maintenanse except sharpening now and then.
> 
> A longer handle would be nice some times, but I usually put the wood to be split on a 24" or so block anyway, and then it is not a problem.
> 
> I also use steel-toed boots when splitting, based on experience...:jawdrop:



nice job what kind of wood r u splitting?


----------



## splittingkid

AKKAMAAN said:


> Good call about the safety shoes!!
> 
> This AKKAMAAN technique prevents dangerous miss hits....*See picture*....*and my video*....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wrap a *bungy cord *around a big round, that way it will not fall apart while splitting.
> If you have smaller rounds, use the *bungy cord * around a bundle of them, split them all and carry them all toghether to the stack
> 
> Heavy big rounds can be split on the ground, other wise always use a *chopping block* for all splitting
> 
> *Stay Safe, Safer, Safest*



hi i have seen your videos but i have one question WHAT KIND OF WOOD ARE THOSE ROUNDS?


----------



## splittingkid

Rickochet said:


> I just received my new Fiskars Super from Amazon and split a few rounds. What a difference!!!!!!!:wave:




Hey rick how many cords do u think u can split?:monkey:


----------



## Dalmatian90

Looks like red oak to me, at least for the big rounds.

As for the bungee technique, my experience is this: Buy a few extra bungees, cause until you develop good accuracy you'll nick a few and a nicked bungee likes to fly apart


----------



## splittingkid

Dalmatian90 said:


> Looks like red oak to me, at least for the big rounds.
> 
> As for the bungee technique, my experience is this: Buy a few extra bungees, cause until you develop good accuracy you'll nick a few and a nicked bungee likes to fly apart



hey thanks man im 15 so im still learning thanks for the help


----------



## GrizzlyAdams86

Sure is cheaper than a gym membership. Always carry it with me in the truck when cutting wood for getting those bigger rounds down to a mangable size. Or just to get some excerise.


----------



## splittingkid

GrizzlyAdams86 said:


> Sure is cheaper than a gym membership. Always carry it with me in the truck when cutting wood for getting those bigger rounds down to a mangable size.



one question (whell actually 2) what kind of wood should i split and two i dont have a chain saw so how is it to be able to cut your own rounds? because using the old bowsaw takes two hours for three rounds


----------



## AKKAMAAN

splittingkid said:


> hi i have seen your videos but i have one question WHAT KIND OF WOOD ARE THOSE ROUNDS?


Douglas Fir from Olympic peninsula Wa state


----------



## splittingkid

AKKAMAAN said:


> Douglas Fir from Olympic peninsula Wa state



thanks have you ever split sugar maple or cherry thats mostly what we have in connecticut:chainsawguy:


----------



## splittingkid

splittingkid said:


> thanks have you ever split sugar maple or cherry thats mostly what we have in connecticut:chainsawguy:



also AKKAMAAN do you think that the fiskars super splitting axe would fit me?
i think that because of the size it would be perfect


----------



## willsaw4beer

splittingkid said:


> thanks have you ever split sugar maple or cherry thats mostly what we have in connecticut:chainsawguy:



Sugar maple and cherry split easily, especially if there's no knots.


----------



## splittingkid

willsaw4beer said:


> Sugar maple and cherry split easily, especially if there's no knots.



wait you have the super splitting axe right?, 
if so how easily will it go through those two woods? any idea?


----------



## TreePointer

splittingkid said:


> one question (whell actually 2) what kind of wood should i split and two i dont have a chain saw so how is it to be able to cut your own rounds? because using the old bowsaw takes two hours for three rounds



The old bowsaw? That was my childhood! Well that and a two man crosscut saw that I used with my brothers. My parents didn't trust 4 boys with any power equipment other than a lawnmower and string trimmer. Heaven forbid if we brought home a .22 rifle! A little bowsaw cutting was fun. Hand sawing a lot of firewood is tedious, so I hear you.

Maybe ask your parents if they can buck the logs for you with a chainsaw. Maybe they can ask a neighbor or friend with a chainsaw to come over and buck some logs so you may split them. I know that I'd buck some logs for an industrious neighbor who wishes to split them.

I've split black cherry and sugar maple (among many other species) with the Fiskars Super Splitting Axe. The cherry splits fine. Sugar maple usually splits well, too, but it's a lot harder wood and some of the less straight pieces and trunks are tough for any splitting axe/maul.


----------



## willsaw4beer

splittingkid said:


> wait you have the super splitting axe right?,
> if so how easily will it go through those two woods? any idea?



I don't just an old Craftsman 6lb with a fiberglass handle.


----------



## splittingkid

TreePointer said:


> The old bowsaw? That was my childhood! Well that and a two man crosscut saw that I used with my brothers. My parents didn't trust 4 boys with any power equipment other than a lawnmower and string trimmer. Heaven forbid if we brought home a .22 rifle! A little bowsaw cutting was fun. Hand sawing a lot of firewood is tedious, so I hear you.
> 
> Maybe ask your parents if they can buck the logs for you with a chainsaw. Maybe they can ask a neighbor or friend with a chainsaw to come over and buck some logs so you may split them. I know that I'd buck some logs for an industrious neighbor who wishes to split them.
> 
> I've split black cherry and sugar maple (among many other species) with the Fiskars Super Splitting Axe. The cherry splits fine. Sugar maple is a lot harder and some of the less straight pieces and trunks are tough for any splitting axe.



hey i know how u feel but thanks (ohh by the way) the twenty two rifle allready got me 2!


----------



## willsaw4beer

TreePointer said:


> The old bowsaw? That was my childhood! Well that and a two man crosscut saw that I used with my brothers. My parents didn't trust 4 boys with any power equipment other than a lawnmower and string trimmer. Heaven forbid if we brought home a .22 rifle! A little bowsaw cutting was fun. Hand sawing a lot of firewood is tedious, so I hear you.
> 
> Maybe ask your parents if they can buck the logs for you with a chainsaw. Maybe they can ask a neighbor or friend with a chainsaw to come over and buck some logs so you may split them. I know that I'd buck some logs for an industrious neighbor who wishes to split them.
> 
> I've split black cherry and sugar maple (among many other species) with the Fiskars Super Splitting Axe. The cherry splits fine. Sugar maple is a lot harder and some of the less straight pieces and trunks are tough for any splitting axe.



Cutting firewood by hand is a rough way to do it. It's not so bad for smaller stuff, under 5'' say, but it's really not productive or worth your time for stuff bigger than that...


----------



## TreePointer

splittingkid said:


> hey i know how u feel but thanks *(ohh by the way) the twenty two rifle allready got me 2!*



Lucky Dog! Have fun with them!


----------



## AKKAMAAN

splittingkid said:


> thanks have you ever split sugar maple or cherry thats mostly what we have in connecticut:chainsawguy:



Nope, but I have split swedish birch....its more knotty than fir but otherwise ok to split..


----------



## splittingkid

TreePointer said:


> Lucky Dog! Have fun with them!




trust me weve got more than that but i wont go that far......do you have any tips about splitting because my birthday is in a week and guess what im getting...the fiskars super splitting axe and because i have been using the sledge hammer and wedge it will be new to me


----------



## splittingkid

splittingkid said:


> i am so pissed because it just snowed and its getting in my way to split
> eeerg:bang:


----------



## TreePointer

splittingkid said:


> trust me weve got more than that but i wont go that far......do you have any tips about splitting because my birthday is in a week and guess what im getting...the fiskars super splitting axe and because i have been using the sledge hammer and wedge it will be new to me



AKKAMAAN has already posted good tips for the Fiskars and essentially other sharp splitting axes. Wear gloves, safety glasses/goggles, and steel toed boots if you have a pair. Long pants and even soccer shin guards can save you when the odd log flies in your direction. Take a break/quit when you're tired (injuries happen when you push the limit). Leave the really tough parts of the rounds for another method (hydraulic splitter, chainsaw, heavy maul, spike & sledge) or simply burn them whole. Putting too much effort into hand splitting the tough pieces can cause tendinitis and other joint injuries.


----------



## splittingkid

TreePointer said:


> AKKAMAAN has the tips for the Fiskars and essentially other sharp splitting axes. Wear gloves, safety glasses/goggles, and steel toed boots if you have a pair. Long pants and even soccer shin guards can save you when the odd log flies in your direction. Take a break/quit when you're tired (injuries happen when you push the limit). Leave the really tough parts of the rounds for another method (hydraulic splitter, chainsaw, heavy maul, spike & sledge) or simply burn them whole. Putting too much effort into hand splitting the tough pieces can cause tendinitis and other joint injuries.



i have all of those but the shin guards what do you use to split?


----------



## AKKAMAAN

splittingkid said:


> trust me weve got more than that but i wont go that far......do you have any tips about splitting because my birthday is in a week and guess what im getting...the fiskars super splitting axe and because i have been using the sledge hammer and wedge it will be new to me



Watch those pic drawings....watch my movies...dont over sving, spred your legs a little for better balance, sving with a short back sving, again DONT OVER SVING, practice accuracy with short sving and use a little vrist snap.... hit the back of the bundle........setup smaller rounds in a bundle tied with a rope...the bungy will give some flex in the bundle, but is not necessary...DONT hit smaller rounds one alone on the chopping block...ALLWAYS bundled....if you are not a bigger guy...I recommend an axe with shorter shaft...
Good Luck and Be SAFE, SAFER and SAFEST


----------



## TreePointer

splittingkid said:


> i have all of those but the shin guards what do you use to split?



4.25 lb Fiskars Super Splitting Axe
8 lb splitting maul for some of the tuffies.
10 lb sledge hammer & splitting wedgh for tuffies.

I pretty much don't use the wedges anymore. They are too dangerous, IMO, because they can (and have) flown in unexpected directions. I quit using the grenade spike because of a close call some years ago.

New addition: A tow behind hydraulic splitter should be in the barn by the end of next week. 

I don't use the shin guards, but some here on AS do. I sometimes keep my chainsaw chaps on over my jeans when splitting--pretty good protection.


----------



## splittingkid

AKKAMAAN said:


> Watch those pic drawings....watch my movies...dont over sving, spred your legs a little for better balance, sving with a short back sving, again DONT OVER SVING, practice accuracy with short sving and use a little vrist snap.... hit the back of the bundle........setup smaller rounds in a bundle tied with a rope...the bungy will give some flex in the bundle, but is not necessary...DONT hit smaller rounds one alone on the chopping block...ALLWAYS bundled....if you are not a bigger guy...I recommend an axe with shorter shaft...
> Good Luck and Be SAFE, SAFER and SAFEST



i have seen the pictures and the shows but in your opinion is it a good axe to invest into? will it split well and perhaps exceptionally and if you have any pictures would you be kind enough to post them?


----------



## splittingkid

TreePointer said:


> 4.25 lb Fiskars Super Splitting Axe
> 8 lb splitting maul for some of the tuffies.
> 10 lb sledge hammer & splitting spikes for tuffies.
> 
> I pretty much don't use the spikes anymore. They are too dangerous, IMO, because they can (and have) flown in unexpected directions. I quit using the grenade spike because of a close some years ago.
> 
> New addition: A tow behind hydraulic splitter should be in the barn by the end of next week.
> 
> I don't use the shin guards, but some here on AS do. I sometimes keep my chainsaw chaps on over my jeans when splitting--pretty good protection.



i have asked akkamaan but in your perspective is the 4.25 lb splitter a worthwile axe


----------



## TreePointer

splittingkid said:


> i have asked akkamaan but in your perspective is the 4.25 lb splitter a worthwile axe



Worthwhile? Yes. I like it a lot (6'0", 230 lbs.). It's more like putting a splitting wedge on the end of an axe handle, so it takes a little acclimation. I got mine for about $40 and free shipping from Amazon.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

splittingkid said:


> i have asked akkamaan but in your perspective is the 4.25 lb splitter a worthwile axe



I bought my Fiskars 4.25# super splitter last year, My brother in law used to be the sledge/maul kinda guy...he tried it and immediately went to the ACE hardware store and bought his own....
My good neighbor Bob is retired and VERY careful with money. He has a very fragile back dont last for more than an hour out there. He used his 8-10# maul. When his back went out again, I walked over to help him split for an hr, when done I left my Fiskars with him, "try it out till tomorrow!!"
NextBob is very conservative and I didnt expect him to like it, even less spent almost 50$to by one.....
Next day I walked over to Bob's house and asked him how he was doing with the Fiskars tryout....It's standing by the shed he said....I tried it for 5 minutes, he said...Did you like it???....yea...I went straight and bought my own....
It is no risk to buy this axe...IF you dont like it you'll get your money back selling it to your neighbor....also LIFETIME WARRANTY!!!!


----------



## GrizzlyAdams86

splittingkid said:


> one question (whell actually 2) what kind of wood should i split and two i dont have a chain saw so how is it to be able to cut your own rounds? because using the old bowsaw takes two hours for three rounds



TreePointer pretty much awnsered for me. The wood in the picture is ash and elm that I had cut up earlier this year/late last year. If you want to learn how to use a chainsaw, get a good pair of chaps, a helmet and some steel-toed boots and your parents permission first.


----------



## vcsnover

I LOVE Fiskars products! I got the Super splitting Axe for my birthday in January, paid like 50.00 on Amazon (no other place around here carries them, Sears has Fiskars but not the Super Splitter). Anyways, I absolutely recommend this to anybody! I own the entire line of Fiskars axes and am looking for the new 8" handled hatchet that is out now to take hiking/camping with me. My 8 lb maul hasn't seen any action since fall, don't need it.


----------



## myzamboni

AKKAMAAN said:


> I bought my Fiskars 4.25# super splitter last year, My brother in law used to be the sledge/maul kinda guy...he tried it and immediately went to the ACE hardware store and bought his own....
> My good neighbor Bob is retired and VERY careful with money. He has a very fragile back dont last for more than an hour out there. He used his 8-10# maul. When his back went out again, I walked over to help him split for an hr, when done I left my Fiskars with him, "try it out till tomorrow!!"
> NextBob is very conservative and I didnt expect him to like it, even less spent almost 50$to by one.....
> Next day I walked over to Bob's house and asked him how he was doing with the Fiskars tryout....It's standing by the shed he said....I tried it for 5 minutes, he said...Did you like it???....yea...I went straight and bought my own....
> It is no risk to buy this axe...IF you dont like it you'll get your money back selling it to your neighbor....also LIFETIME WARRANTY!!!!



This just got me to buy one. (eBay $40 shipped. the only seller acecloseouts). They have a dozen or so left.


----------



## Techstuf

You'll love the simple, yet elegant, efficiency.....just don't get too ambitious, like I did, and tear a shoulder muscle.


TS


----------



## AKKAMAAN

myzamboni said:


> This just got me to buy one. (eBay $40 shipped. the only seller acecloseouts). They have a dozen or so left.



Well, I am not telling any BS, it is all 2 true stories...
I do wish I was under comission from Fiskars...

I have had my hickory mauls outside, by the log pile for years and I have also broke a few rotten handles. Now I dont have to worry about that any more, FISKARS wont rotten and wont break, and can be left outside in snow and rain, it wont even rust.myzamboni, Good Choice!!


----------



## TreePointer

AKKAMAAN said:


> Well, I am not telling any BS, it is all 2 true stories...
> I do wish I was under comission from Fiskars...
> 
> I have had my hickory mauls outside, by the log pile for years and I have also broke a few rotten handles. Now I dont have to worry about that any more, FISKARS wont rotten and wont break, and can be left outside in snow and rain, it wont even rust.myzamboni, Good Choice!!



I agree! My sledge, mauls, and splitting axes are all fiberglass/composite now. They're lighter, and no longer replacing handles makes me :biggrinbounce2:


----------



## Techstuf

As I get occasional vibrations even with the Fiskars, I like to wrap the handle with cushioned grip tape, works well.


TS


----------



## vcsnover

I haven't had any vibration issues with mine, not yet anyways.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Techstuf said:


> As I get occasional vibrations even with the Fiskars, I like to wrap the handle with cushioned grip tape, works well.
> TS



Good idea with the tape! I use fir pitch and gloves, great grip!
If possible, try an FSS axe at a friend or neighbor, to see if problem remains or not.....Take axe back to store for a new one if it vibrates....:greenchainsaw:


----------



## Techstuf

The vibrations usually only come when I swing at bleeding velocity.....which I seem certain never to quite reach again, as I overdid it recently and tore a shoulder muscle but good. Got carried away. I like to make things swing really fast....and it caught up with me this time.

One of my other hobbies:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCi06GGYEok


TS


----------



## MotorSeven

Ok i'll bite....just ordered one since my daughters friend shattered the handle on my Home Desperate 8lb. I also want to try a mega maul, but I am not sure my shoulders would agree with me. I do really enjoy swinging and trying to drive the rounds into China, so a Fiskars is going to be a big change. 
I am going to weld a pipe onto the old maul for a back-up & if I feel the need for P O W E R.

Report to follow. Zamboni, thanks for the fleabay info........

RD


----------



## Qsky

I finally was able to get out in the woods with my new Fiskars Super Splitter today and get to work on a large red oak I cut down a few days ago. WOW!!!! everything good that has been posted about it is true. Wish I knew about it years ago. No More 6 or 8 lb mauls for me!


----------



## TreePointer

Qsky said:


> I finally was able to get out in the woods with my new Fiskars Super Splitter today and get to work on a large red oak I cut down a few days ago. WOW!!!! everything good that has been posted about it is true. Wish I knew about it years ago. No More 6 or 8 lb mauls for me!



Cha-ching! $$$ Another commission for you, AKKAMAAN!


----------



## striperswaper

just read through this thread, agree the 6-8 lb ames type mauls aren't very good. how does the effectiveness compare to a 12lb+ monster maul? don't think about the effort to swing either one, which one splits big snotty rounds of hickory the quicker?


----------



## splittingkid

TreePointer said:


> Cha-ching! $$$ Another commission for you, AKKAMAAN!



treepointer! i just got my fiskars today and killed o whole round on ash my dad was so impressed that he burned his 8 pound handle and bought one for him i love this thing!


----------



## AKKAMAAN

splittingkid said:


> treepointer! i just got my fiskars today and killed o whole round on ash my dad was so impressed that he burned his 8 pound handle and bought one for him i love this thing!



You can burn a lot of stuff to get a Fiskars Super Splitter....


----------



## TreePointer

splittingkid said:


> treepointer! i just got my fiskars today and killed o whole round on ash my dad was so impressed that he burned his 8 pound handle and bought one for him i love this thing!



Glad you like it. I owe AKKAMAAN for introducing me to the Fiskars SS Axe. He has great videos. Thanks, AKKAMAAN!



AKKAMAAN said:


> You can burn a lot of stuff to get a Fiskars Super Splitter....



Heh, ain't that the truth!


----------



## captjack

I went to sears and all they had was the pro (7859) I bought it anyway - i will order the SS online.

This thing is amazing !! I would have lost my house in a bet over this 2.5 lbs maul. I split some big red oak today. Worked around the outside and it went right through the stuff. I cant wait to try the 4.5 lbs'er


----------



## Wild Knight

I am very happy with my Fiskars. I bought both the 4.5 and 2.5 splitting mauls. They swing very fast and the woods really seems to bust outwards quickly. I have actually split two of my base logs (28" pink oak) because the it goes through the wood so easily. I do agree with previous posts that you need to put the rounds up to about hip/belt height to avoid hitting your foot on a bad swing. 

One buddy of mine swore that the only way to split firewood was with the 16lb orange triangular mauls. He just shook his head after he ripped through a few 14-16" cherry rounds. 

I highly recommend this splitting axe.


----------



## Stein

OK, I have been reading both of the Fiskars SS threads. Do most of the users not have a hydraulic splitter? Will it make me put away my hydaulic splitter? I'm a little fella, 5'8" and 155. Is it something that I will actually use as opposed to the hydaulic?


----------



## thombat4

Techstuf said:


> One of my other hobbies:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCi06GGYEok
> 
> 
> TS



Darn good stuff there TS! I'd be interested in seeing your design. Nice job!


Bryan


----------



## cjcocn

Stein said:


> OK, I have been reading both of the Fiskars SS threads. Do most of the users not have a hydraulic splitter? Will it make me put away my hydaulic splitter? I'm a little fella, 5'8" and 155. Is it something that I will actually use as opposed to the hydaulic?



Having never used a hydraulic splitter, I may not be the best person to answer this, but here is my $0.02 ....

At 5'8" and 155lbs, the Fiskars will be perfect for you. It is light in terms of weight, but splits amazingly well. Some state that the handle should be longer, but I am 6' tall I find it to be no problem whatsoever. The handle should be just right for you.

When compared to the hydraulic, you may find yourself opting for the Fiskars on all but the biggest and/or toughest rounds. With a hydraulic you would have to maneuver the logs to the splitter, lift them, etc. With a Fiskars - you just split them where they stand and you are left with pieces that are much more manageable.

Keep the change!


----------



## thombat4

cjcocn said:


> Having never used a hydraulic splitter, I may not be the best person to answer this, but here is my $0.02 ....
> 
> 
> Keep the change!



That made me laugh!:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Stein said:


> OK, I have been reading both of the Fiskars SS threads. Do most of the users not have a hydraulic splitter? Will it make me put away my hydaulic splitter? I'm a little fella, 5'8" and 155. Is it something that I will actually use as opposed to the hydaulic?



I don't have a splitter, but I want to build one. Not so much for splitting....most as a challenge...It's going to look different I promise...and then I sell it on ebay....
Anyway, I don't think you are that little.....look at this little bad guy in one of my favorite cartoons...LUCKY LUKE....He can't even crash a bottle...
Have fun watching...
If you have used a 8-12# maul, A Fiskars is like coming to heaven...
You probobly won't put away your splitter, but you will use it MUCH less....See my Youtube video.....and you understand....


----------



## myzamboni

Got my Fiskars in the mail yesterday. Took it out back while still dressed in work clothes and no gloves to see what all the hubbub is about.

Holy Shnikeys!!! It laughed at the sweetgum rounds! I was not even attempting full speed swings (again, no gloves). My productivity is about to improve dramatically.


----------



## Butch(OH)

WOW! almost 6000 views and how many sold?,,, Wonder when my check will arrive from Fiskers???


----------



## myzamboni

Butch(OH) said:


> WOW! almost 6000 views and how many sold?,,, Wonder when my check will arrive from Fiskers???



Spell it right, and a check just might come . . .
opcorn:


----------



## Butch(OH)

myzamboni said:


> Spell it right, and a check just might come . . .
> opcorn:




Good grief, everything today requires a degree,,,

FISKARS


----------



## boltonranger

*Dern that new math!*



AKKAMAAN said:


> Third...If you can double the axe speed from taking half weight of, you still double the SPLITTING FORCE



I think you'd have to quadruple your ax speed to get there.
Double x half = One.

But I do think it's an interesting tool. Good videos A-Man!opcorn:
-br


----------



## myzamboni

Butch(OH) said:


> Good grief, everything today requires a degree,,,
> 
> FISKARS



Nah, just read the thread title. No degree needed


----------



## AKKAMAAN

boltonranger said:


> I think you'd have to quadruple your ax speed to get there.
> Double x half = One.
> 
> But I do think it's an interesting tool. Good videos A-Man!opcorn:
> -br



Thanks for comment boltonranger

Want to clearify kinetic energi


Energy=1/2 x mass x velocity^2

example in metric...
start with mass 2kg and velocity 1m/s
E=0.5x2x1x1=1 Joule
double mass
E=0.5x4x1x1=2 Joules (2times)
double speed
*E=0.5x2x2x2=4 Joules (4times)*

Conclusion: 
Double the speed gives 4 times the energy and double the mass only gives 2 times the energy


----------



## nocdpc

Stein said:


> OK, I have been reading both of the Fiskars SS threads. Do most of the users not have a hydraulic splitter? Will it make me put away my hydaulic splitter? I'm a little fella, 5'8" and 155. Is it something that I will actually use as opposed to the hydaulic?



The fiskars will not replace a decent hydro but it is a nice backup or a quick split option. Anyone with a hydro should still own 1 axe and this is the one.


----------



## Stein

All right, I'll pick one up. I've never used a maul-always had a splitter. I could use the exercise.

EDIT: Amazon.com is out of stock on the $49.88 with free shipping. Looks like I will be paying retail somewhere.

EDIT again: Bought one of the two left at Acecloseouts on Ebay. $40.94 shipped!


----------



## nocdpc

Stein said:


> All right, I'll pick one up. I've never used a maul-always had a splitter. I could use the exercise.
> 
> EDIT: Amazon.com is out of stock on the $49.88 with free shipping. Looks like I will be paying retail somewhere.




Look harder
http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-7854-...1?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1236721989&sr=8-1


----------



## Stein

nocdpc said:


> Look harder
> http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-7854-...1?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1236721989&sr=8-1



Yeah, I saw that but it was $55 with shipping. I got one for $40.94 shipped from acecloseouts off ebay.


----------



## Northland

Stein said:


> Yeah, I saw that but it was $55 with shipping. I got one for $40.94 shipped from acecloseouts off ebay.



Me too!


----------



## Northland

AKKAMAAN said:


> Conclusion: Double the speed gives 4 times the energy and double the mass only gives 2 times the energy



That's good to know and explains the performance of the FSS.

I bought this cool carabiner to use with my 100' of Samson Amsteel Blue rope, snatch blocks and tree saver slings to pull logs from my forest using my tractor.

The web site suggests "Pulley rotates with loads up to 11kN before any deformation occurs. Should the pulley deform, the biner still retains its rated strength. Strength with closed gate is 24kn, open gate 9kN, if cross-loaded 7kN."

I found that a kn is a kilonewton but I don't know how that relates to actual weight that can be applied in lbs or tons. Can you tell me?

We cut down 10 big poplar trees at my brother's house yesterday and we used it to winch the trees where we wanted it to fall. It didn't break which I was happy about since it cost me $27 and I had intended to use for backpacking and kayaking.


----------



## slipknot91

I just bought the last one from E-bay member (acecloseouts) about 5 minutes ago. Least they said 1 was left.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Northland said:


> That's good to know and explains the performance of the FSS.
> 
> I bought this cool carabiner to use with my 100' of Samson Amsteel Blue rope, snatch blocks and tree saver slings to pull logs from my forest using my tractor.
> 
> The web site suggests "Pulley rotates with loads up to 11kN before any deformation occurs. Should the pulley deform, the biner still retains its rated strength. Strength with closed gate is 24kn, open gate 9kN, if cross-loaded 7kN."
> 
> I found that a kn is a kilonewton but I don't know how that relates to actual weight that can be applied in lbs or tons. Can you tell me?
> 
> We cut down 10 big poplar trees at my brother's house yesterday and we used it to winch the trees where we wanted it to fall. It didn't break which I was happy about since it cost me $27 and I had intended to use for backpacking and kayaking.



Newton (N) is the metric SI unit for Force (F)
1 Newton is the force that gives the mass of 1kilogram the acceleration of 1m/s^2.

on earth at sea level the acceleration from gravity is 9.80665 m/s^2. That make 9.80665 N (9.81N)to lift the mass 1 kg. 1 lbs = about 0.454kg so you can say 1 lbs is about 4.45 N or 1N is about 0.225 lbs.

There are many different "tons" a metric ton is 1000kg. an american ton (short ton) is 2000lbs.
to lift the mass of 1 metric ton it takes 9806.6 N:jawdrop:


----------



## boltonranger

*Ouch!*



AKKAMAAN said:


> Thanks for comment boltonranger
> 
> Want to clearify kinetic energi
> 
> 
> Energy=1/2 x mass x velocity^2
> 
> example in metric...
> start with mass 2kg and velocity 1m/s
> E=0.5x2x1x1=1 Joule
> double mass
> E=0.5x4x1x1=2 Joules (2times)
> double speed
> *E=0.5x2x2x2=4 Joules (4times)*
> 
> Conclusion:
> Double the speed gives 4 times the energy and double the mass only gives 2 times the energy



My head hasn't hurt like that since physics class. 
I think there's more to it; although we're quickly approaching my pay grade limit... The 2 axes have different rotation speeds; by virtue of their weight and _also_ the length of the handle. If the handles differ, the rotational speed differs. These propeller-heads are discussing axes on their website:


HTML:


robotshttp://www.roboticgladiator.com/tutorials/ax1.html


It's a heady read but you get the idea.
Let's just say "danged good axe." 

-br


----------



## Northland

AKKAMAAN said:


> Newton (N) is the metric SI unit for Force (F)
> 1 Newton is the force that gives the mass of 1kilogram the acceleration of 1m/s^2.
> 
> on earth at sea level the acceleration from gravity is 9.80665 m/s^2. That make 9.80665 N (9.81N)to lift the mass 1 kg. 1 lbs = about 0.454kg so you can say 1 lbs is about 4.45 N or 1N is about 0.225 lbs.
> 
> There are many different "tons" a metric ton is 1000kg. an american ton (short ton) is 2000lbs.
> to lift the mass of 1 metric ton it takes 9806.6 N



Thanks for information. So, do you think 24kn is sufficient, and will not break, for pulling maple logs with rope and my tractor?


----------



## nocdpc

Stein said:


> Yeah, I saw that but it was $55 with shipping. I got one for $40.94 shipped from acecloseouts off ebay.



sweet find. I bought mine on Amazon 3 weeks back for 44 including shipping. The price is all over the place with this axe... In any event let us know you first impressions.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Northland said:


> Thanks for information. So, do you think 24kn is sufficient, and will not break, for pulling maple logs with rope and my tractor?



No I definately don't think it is sufficient. Good chance it will break, due to other circumstances like sharp edges, if logs get stuck when pulling etc etc. Get some worned out straps from a flatbed hauler. You can link them together with knots to make them longer. PUT A DRY, 1ft 2"diam, PIECE OF WOOD, inside the knot before tighten it. When you are done you break the wood and the knot is loose.


----------



## cjcocn

AKKAMAAN said:


> No I definately don't think it is sufficient. Good chance it will break, due to other circumstances like sharp edges, if logs get stuck when pulling etc etc. Get some worned out straps from a flatbed hauler. You can link them together with knots to make them longer. PUT A DRY, 1ft 2"diam, PIECE OF WOOD, inside the knot before tighten it. When you are done you break the wood and the knot is loose.



Also works for connecting tow straps when pulling trucks or logs out ... for those of us that sometimes neglect to take the shackles along. :blush:


----------



## Mike PA

I ordered a super-splitter today from Amazon. Price is $20 to my door. Not a bad deal. It is out of stock, so I hope it doesn't take too long. For that price, I can wait!


----------



## Taxmantoo

Stein said:


> EDIT: Amazon.com is out of stock on the $49.88 with free shipping. Looks like I will be paying retail somewhere.
> 
> EDIT again: Bought one of the two left at Acecloseouts on Ebay. $40.94 shipped!



Menard's lumber/hardware stores (much like Home Despot) sell them for $39.99, or at least they did when I bought mine in December.

Edit: Mike, do you have a link for yours? I don't see anything bigger than a hatchet on Amazon for $20.


----------



## rick2752

Good Luck to all the Ebay buyers, I bought one on March 5th at 9am when 8 were available. I just got an email from them that my order is cancelled as they are out of stock. They refunded my money but I'm still P.O.d about it. Can you post a link where you found it on amazon for 20 bucks???? I will reorder there and wait.


----------



## Stein

rick2752 said:


> Good Luck to all the Ebay buyers, I bought one on March 5th at 9am when 8 were available. I just got an email from them that my order is cancelled as they are out of stock. They refunded my money but I'm still P.O.d about it. Can you post a link where you found it on amazon for 20 bucks???? I will reorder there and wait.



Yeah, I just got my refund, too. Oh, well. I'll find one locally.


----------



## Northland

I just picked up my FSS from my freight forwarder in Michigan.

I bought it from Acecloseouts on EBay for $41 including shipping. 

I was excited to try it and split a bunch of already split frozen maple into smaller pieces. So far....it really is as good as everyone said

Sadly, I won't have any chance to use it for eight days as we are leaving for Cuba in the morning.

If you can buy them for $20 on Amazon, including shipping, I will buy 100 and sell them here in Canada. Strangely, Fiskars doesn't sell the Super Splitter in Canada.


----------



## Richard_

whats the difference between the the 2tone and the all black one ?


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Richard_ said:


> whats the difference between the the 2tone and the all black one ?



They are probobly the same if head weight and shaft lenght is the same.....just new coloring for 2009....


----------



## TreePointer

Richard_ said:


> whats the difference between the the 2tone and the all black one ?[/IMG]



FWIW, when I ordered from Amazon, the Web picture showed all black, but I received the two-tone model. It splits wood. I'm happy.


----------



## blis

that orange-black is better one, makes it harder to forget it in pile of snow or under firewood stack due the orange color :greenchainsaw:


----------



## SawTroll

Richard_ said:


> whats the difference between the the 2tone and the all black one ?




At least here, the bottom color is the old one, used until a few years ago - the top one with more orange is the new one.


----------



## Mike PA

I should have been more specific with what I wrote. The price is $50, but I got a $30 refund for opening an amazon card. Free shipping is also available through the amazon prime deal. Sorry for the confusion.


----------



## stan v

Received mine last week (the Ace closeout stuff on Ebay) and the first thing I did was cut a chopping block 19" tall and commenced whacking some 16" rounds 14" long of red oak. Much less effort than the 6# maul and splitting the half rounds was a piece of cake. Good splitter.


----------



## MotorSeven

Ace just shipped mine yesterday....6 days after I payed 'em. Grrrrrrr.......

RD


----------



## AKKAMAAN

SawTroll said:


> At least here, the bottom color is the old one, used until a few years ago - the top one with more orange is the new one.



yea that make sense! 

Can you see any other differences in the design?? Or are they shaped the same?!
:bang:


----------



## slipknot91

ACECLOSEOUT just requested to cancel my transaction. Guess one of you guys got the last one. Found another on on E-bay and bought that one. Just had to pay 10 dollars more.


----------



## slipknot91

Seen another woodsplitting axe on e bay made by Gerber. Looks just like the Fiskars but its got a black handle. May work just as well.


----------



## myzamboni

slipknot91 said:


> Seen another woodsplitting axe on e bay made by Gerber. Looks just like the Fiskars but its got a black handle. May work just as well.



I looked at that one. it is a little different and the seller was stating the weight balance seemed odd. (FWIW)


----------



## Qsky

*Out in The woods early today*

Me and My Fiskars out in the woods early today !! I got mad love for that axe !


----------



## Philbert

Tried one today at the Minnesota / Wisconsin A.S. Get Together.

Won't replace a hydraulic splitter, but really impressive for a hand maul.

Philbert


----------



## willsaw4beer

Bought the Pro splitting axe yesterday and used it yesterday and today. It won't replace my old USA made Craftsman 6 lb. but it seems ok. It's definitely more finesse than power, and I think in terms of production the old maul is faster, although the lightweight Fiskars is definitely less effort. It took a few rounds before I got acclimated to it.


----------



## flashy

willsaw4beer said:


> Bought the Pro splitting axe yesterday and used it yesterday and today. It won't replace my old USA made Craftsman 6 lb. but it seems ok. It's definitely more finesse than power, and I think in terms of production the old maul is faster, although the lightweight Fiskars is definitely less effort. It took a few rounds before I got acclimated to it.



Saying THAT here is like telling a Star Wars nerd that the plastic lightsaber he just bought isn't real. 
Aren't you caught up in the hype?


----------



## SawTroll

slipknot91 said:


> Seen another woodsplitting axe on e bay made by Gerber. Looks just like the Fiskars but its got a black handle. May work just as well.




Made in Finland I guess - if you look close....


LINK


----------



## MotorSeven

Got mine today and attacked some wet sycamore that my 8lb would not split without blowing out a spleen. Y'all are right, there is a learning curve. By picking on the outer edge & working around the log it actually works! I do miss my long handle though, but I guess i'll get used to it. So, I guess I am drinking the Fiskars coolaid from now on..........

RD


----------



## AKKAMAAN

MotorSeven said:


> By picking on the outer edge & working around the log it actually works!



I am glad, that your are that happy, with the AKKAMAAN way of splitting....
Did you use the bungee cord wrapped around too?


----------



## Brushwacker

Qsky said:


> Me and My Fiskars out in the woods early today !! I got mad love for that axe !



I took my new Fiskers on a tree job with a freind I help part time. I talked him into splitting the wood before loading. We had about 1 1/2 cord of black oak. I split a bunch and then handed it to him. Soon after I heard him say "I love this thing". About 10 minutes later again and again... Next day he called me from Menards.


----------



## Brushwacker

BlackCatBone said:


> I am a fan of the SS axe. My technique to keep the axe from my feet and shins is to take a wider stance and bend my knees when the axe comes down to the wood's level. This puts a lot of power behind the swing so you have to exert less effort with your arms and shoulders. It also lowers the center of the axes path which makes it less likely to rotate into the foot/shin area. There have been several excellent suggestions too.
> 
> If there was one with the longer handle and maybe an extra half pound or so I'd be in line to get one.



yip, a wider stance and swing it inbetween the feet feels good and safer to me. Mine has split very well through some tough wood but I had of couple very tough blocks I started swinging harder on and had the fiskers bounce back and com fairly close to my forehead a couple times. A hard hat or better not swing it near full strength in knotty or tough wood.


----------



## MotorSeven

AKK, you were dead on with the "method". No bungees though.................

RD


----------



## Northland

I cut down a number of maples and a few birch trees around the house this morning. After lunch I ended up splitting every tree with my new Fiskars Super Splitting Axe.

The axe is amazing testament to some thought and engineering being put into an old tool. I found although it weighs much less then my 6 and 8 lb mauls it splits wood way easier and more effectively. I split for three to four hours until I got tired. Note the picture shows 20" pieces of fresh 12"+ around maple that split with nominal effort.

As an added bonus the sharpness and design of the axe head makes it versatile for separating pieces, sideways, of mostly split wood that are held together by wood fibre strands. You can't do that with an old style maul.

Best $50 I have ever spent! I think it will save me, for now, from buying a $1000 wood splitter that would run off my tractor hydraulics. 

Thanks Peter and Akkamaan for showing me the light!


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Northland said:


> I cut down a number of maples and a few birch trees around the house this morning. After lunch I ended up splitting every tree with my new Fiskars Super Splitting Axe.
> 
> The axe is amazing testament to some thought and engineering being put into an old tool. I found although it weighs much less then my 6 and 8 lb mauls it splits wood way easier and more effectively. I split for three to four hours until I got tired. Note the picture shows 20" pieces of fresh 12"+ around maple that split with nominal effort.
> 
> As an added bonus the sharpness and design of the axe head makes it versatile for separating pieces, sideways, of mostly split wood that are held together by wood fibre strands. You can't do that with an old style maul.
> 
> Best $50 I have ever spent! I think it will save me, for now, from buying a $1000 wood splitter that would run off my tractor hydraulics.
> 
> Thanks Peter and Akkamaan for showing me the light!



It is for feedback like this I spend my hours at this forum....Thanks
for all credit...

I wish I had commision from Fiskars 

I can see your Finnish flag brother.....Be proud!!

I'm a pure bread Swede....Fins and Swedes allways had a great rivalry in both sports, especially hockey and industry....Sweden used to be big brother to Finland......today the Fins have bought a lot of the major Swedish steel manufacturing.....and I believe Finland is one of, if not the best, steel manufacturing nation in the world, AND they usually beat Sweden in hockey...:angry2:

Keep swing'n your Fiskars...

"aw come on"


----------



## blis

AKKAMAAN said:


> It is for feedback like this I spend my hours at this forum....Thanks
> for all credit...
> 
> I wish I had commision from Fiskars
> 
> I can see your Finnish flag brother.....Be proud!!
> 
> I'm a pure bread Swede....Fins and Swedes allways had a great rivalry in both sports, especially hockey and industry....Sweden used to be big brother to Finland......today the Fins have bought a lot of the major Swedish steel manufacturing.....and I believe Finland is one of, if not the best, steel manufacturing nation in the world, AND they usually beat Sweden in hockey...:angry2:
> 
> Keep swing'n your Fiskars...
> 
> "aw come on"



I'm still bitter about swedes winning us on hockey -97 or was it -95...


----------



## Northland

AKKAMAAN said:


> It is for feedback like this I spend my hours at this forum....Thanks
> for all credit...
> 
> I wish I had commision from Fiskars
> 
> I can see your Finnish flag brother.....Be proud!!
> 
> I'm a pure bread Swede....Fins and Swedes allways had a great rivalry in both sports, especially hockey and industry....Sweden used to be big brother to Finland......today the Fins have bought a lot of the major Swedish steel manufacturing.....and I believe Finland is one of, if not the best, steel manufacturing nation in the world, AND they usually beat Sweden in hockey...:angry2:
> 
> Keep swing'n your Fiskars...
> 
> "aw come on"



Your welcome Akkamaan. It's great to be able learn so much from forums like this. 

Since you are a Swede I am glad I put my beloved Husqvarna 365 into the photo. That Swedish made product just keeps churning through the maple of my property.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

MotorSeven said:


> AKK, you were dead on with the "method". No bungees though.................
> 
> RD



Thanks a lot M7!!


----------



## nocdpc

How does one recommend sharpening the Old Fiskars 7854 SS?


----------



## Northland

with one of these

http://www.fiskars.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10101&categoryId=10277&productId=10535&page=products

I use it on my Fiskars brush axe, 14" hatchet and now my Super Splitter axe


----------



## rick2752

im probably screwin myself here, you guys will buy them all up, but ebay has the super splitters again supposedly. I just bought one but I may not get it as I left negative feedback last time because they waited a week to tell me they were out of stock. Last time I bought it they had eight left same as today. we'll just have to wait and see.....


----------



## willsaw4beer

I'm starting to like my pro splitting axe more the more I use it. You have to get to understand how it works best for it to really shine.


----------



## gruff4531

*Finally got to try mine out*

This past weekend. I purchased one from Menards a couple weeks ago, and I really like it. I was splitting hackberry really easy and it was a lot nicer to swing than the 8ld or the 16ld. Like many have said before me I thought it would be to short but after a couple hours of use you really get acclimated to it. I really like the weight because it means one less tool I take with me to the tree by replacing the axe and maul combo.


----------



## nocdpc

Northland said:


> with one of these
> 
> http://www.fiskars.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10101&categoryId=10277&productId=10535&page=products
> 
> I use it on my Fiskars brush axe, 14" hatchet and now my Super Splitter axe



I have a small knick in the blade that I am almost positive this thing will not be able to sharpen out. What other devices are out there? I have a grinding wheel still in the box how about one of those? I just have to set it up.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

nocdpc said:


> I have a small knick in the blade that I am almost positive this thing will not be able to sharpen out. What other devices are out there? I have a grinding wheel still in the box how about one of those? I just have to set it up.



NEVER EVER use a high speed grinding tool on an axe edge. You have to use cold processing on an axe. The heat from grinding will screw up the steel. As soon as the steel get that blue-ish colour from heat, you will have carbon loss from the steel. 

If you have some knicks on the edge, tighten the axe into a wise and use a flat file, start with a course if needed, then a fine....The best is to use a Slow Speed Wet Sharpener ... Hone with a dry or wet stone to finish...

I've seen high speed grinding tools used with water cooling (saw chain sharpener), that worked out ok, but it is a mess with water flying around, and unsafe if you use electric grinder...


----------



## Dalmatian90

I use one of my grandfather's whetstones. It's actually kind of relaxing to do in the evening watching TV 

Google it, there's some youtube videos that show the technique, basically you're just pretending to take a super thin slice off the stone.

=========
Grandpa* started off as a woodsmen in Finland, emmigrated to Minnesota. Story goes he was too darn handsome and got all the new ladies in the town they were in, so his buddies hatched a plan to reduce competetion. Got him completely plastered one night, having previously bought two train tickets, including one for a friend who already wanted to move to New York. Grandpa woke up, asked "Where am I?" Traveling companion looked out the train window, "Pennsylvania."

That's how he ended up in NYC building piers and other carpentry work. Then my grannie (also from Finland) had relatives in this part of Connecticut and once they had kids she wanted to leave the city and buy a farm. Her father is buried in Worcester, MA -- he died in the U.S. while on a business trip for the family tanning factory. My grannie fled Finland just before the Russian Revolution, she had the equivelant of a Junior College education which was quite an achievement for a woman in Czarist Russia and one of the things that always grated on her was the diploma was seized along with other papers by border guards when she was leaving. But at least she got out, one of her traveling companions was taken off the ship and back to the mainland.

So the sharpening stone I use on my Fiskars was also used by someone who grew up in Finland 

(* Papu & Mumu would be my half-sister's grandparents...also from Finland)


----------



## blis

AKKAMAAN said:


> NEVER EVER use a high speed grinding tool on an axe edge. You have to use cold processing on an axe.* The heat from grinding will screw up the steel. As soon as the steel get that blue-ish colour from heat, you will have carbon loss from the steel. *
> 
> If you have some knicks on the edge, tighten the axe into a wise and use a flat file, start with a course if needed, then a fine....The best is to use a Slow Speed Wet Sharpener ... Hone with a dry or wet stone to finish...
> 
> I've seen high speed grinding tools used with water cooling (saw chain sharpener), that worked out ok, but it is a mess with water flying around, and unsafe if you use electric grinder...




Actually, carbon loss wont occur until steel reaches temperatures high as 760'c, but otherwise you're right. Using grinder etc.. to sharpen axe will mess up the tempering in axes head which will lead to soft spot in the blade which is no good... 

wet stone is the best way to sharpen anything that has blade if you want it really sharp (heck, i could shave my beard with axe after grinding it). If you dont have the tools flat file is good for cleaning out the nicks as mentioned or small hand held whetstone will do, just takes some time...


----------



## muncybob

Our local Sears store also has this axe for $39.99. You can go on line and sign up for their mailing list...they will then provide you with a $5 off $50 coupon...plan to use that to pick up the axe and the sharpener along with something else(qt of oil maybe) to push it over $50 total.


----------



## rick2752

Bob make sure you check that closely, my sears only carries the pro axe which only has a 2lb head not the 4 1/2 like the super.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

blis said:


> Actually, carbon loss wont occur until steel reaches temperatures high as 760'c, but otherwise you're right.



I have my own hands on experience on that......
You are right about temperature, but the outer, very thin, edge (less than 1/16" wide zone) will go RED in a few seconds if high speed grinding...carbon was "flaking" off the edge


----------



## Dakotas Dad

Ok, so been splitting firewood since I was about 10, didn't split much while I was in the army for 20 years, but some. Retired and built our house 12 years ago, house was built with a standard contractors fireplace, we figured once we used up the wood from the few trees knocked down in construction, we would change to gas logs... never happened. each spring we would have a tree or two come down and so I would split it and stack it, and we would have some wood for the winter to burn and enjoy.. no heat, just ambiance. So this year, after the ice storm we decided as much wood as we had down, we might as well put in an actual wood stove and get some benefit from the fire.. been splitting what I could when I could, spring weather and bad joints and such, swinging the 'ol 8lb maul dutifully.. been reading on some forums about this Fiskars splitting axe... ordered on the e-bay Monday, arrived to day.. 

started bucking this little cherry Monday.. and went out today, even though it has rained for the last 36 hours, just to give the new axe a quick try...

Pretty impressed. In my case I would say it turned a "strength" exercise into an "aerobic" exercise. How so you ask? Well, I am swinging twice as often as with the old heavy maul, and have to throw/pile lumber twice as often per minute. I have been tired from splitting before, but never "winded", until this afternoon. Dang, son. Gonna have to try the bungie or tire trick, to cut down on the retrieving step some...


Decent bit of wood down here in the main trunk.. 






General size of the rounds..






Two went into the woods.. only one returned..lol


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Dakotas Dad said:


> it turned a "strength" exercise into an "aerobic" exercise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> swinging twice as often as with the old heavy maul, and have to throw/pile lumber twice as often per minute
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna have to try the *bungie* or tire trick, to cut down on the retrieving step some...
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


Nice logs, straight grain, high density?
Very nice job DD!
Keep swing'n!!


----------



## Northland

Dalmatian90 said:


> My grannie fled Finland just before the Russian Revolution, she had the equivelant of a Junior College education which was quite an achievement for a woman in Czarist Russia and one of the things that always grated on her was the diploma was seized along with other papers by border guards when she was leaving. But at least she got out, one of her traveling companions was taken off the ship and back to the mainland.



Good story

If you Fin guys get a chance you should watch this movie

http://www3.nfb.ca/collection/films/fiche/?id=51083


----------



## nocdpc

Northland said:


> Good story
> 
> If you Fin guys get a chance you should watch this movie
> 
> http://www3.nfb.ca/collection/films/fiche/?id=51083




I am new to this forum but what does this have to do with Fiskars axe?


----------



## Northland

nocdpc said:


> I am new to this forum but what does this have to do with Fiskars axe?




The axe is made in Finland and there are a number of posters being Fin or of Finnish descent including Dalmation90 who quoted the story about his grandmother leaving Finland. The movie I referenced has a true story line that is similar to.

Is that OK with you?


----------



## nocdpc

Northland said:


> The axe is made in Finland and there are a number of posters being Fin or of Finnish descent including Dalmation90 who quoted the story about his grandmother leaving Finland. The movie I referenced has a true story line that is similar to.
> 
> Is that OK with you?



It was a serious question and I wanted to know so thank you for that... It is not a matter of okay with me but this thread and the people who are trying to learn from it.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

nocdpc said:


> It was a serious question and I wanted to know so thank you for that... It is not a matter of okay with me but this thread and the people who are trying to learn from it.





:agree2:You are right nocdpc!! We should try to stay on topic.....:censored:

If you look at this thread, we are doing quite well.....:jawdrop:

"aw come on"...I think we have to be human too, and allow our selves to be spontanious....and nostalgic....and happy.... it is just a forum...not a high school class room...

So we all try to do our best, but once in a while we or someone else "slip" a little....maybe next time it is You....and we will forgive you...I promise no one will carry the anger for a long time...


----------



## Northland

Yes, understood. 

I observed their were self-appointed thread police on the tractor forum and many discussions invariably turned nasty. Life's too short for such bs. 

I am a very social and out-going kind of guy who likes to applaud people for their efforts and submissions. I choose not to chastise them. If I don't like something I just don't read it.

May peace be with you.


----------



## muncybob

rick2752 said:


> Bob make sure you check that closely, my sears only carries the pro axe which only has a 2lb head not the 4 1/2 like the super.



Thanks for the heads up!! Sears does not carry the heavier axe...off to EBay!


----------



## AKKAMAAN

muncybob said:


> Thanks for the heads up!! Sears does not carry the heavier axe...off to EBay!


try an "ACE Hardware" supplied store, ACE are supplying the whole Fiskars program


----------



## Dakotas Dad

I couldn't find one locally, did the ebay.. was in my local Sears last night with some friends, and there they were. My buddy has one now, just based on my description of the fun I was having with mine. Now it's going to rain for 10 days....


----------



## nocdpc

AKKAMAAN said:


> :agree2:You are right nocdpc!! We should try to stay on topic.....:censored:
> 
> If you look at this thread, we are doing quite well.....:jawdrop:
> 
> "aw come on"...I think we have to be human too, and allow our selves to be spontanious....and nostalgic....and happy.... it is just a forum...not a high school class room...
> 
> So we all try to do our best, but once in a while we or someone else "slip" a little....maybe next time it is You....and we will forgive you...I promise no one will carry the anger for a long time...



I agree but when I have to spend time to click on some weird ass site that has pop-ups all over my computer and it far from topic I lose patience... I think it is analogous to having a converstation with friends and having some stranger walk up and talk about something totally different(off-topic) and not only that the stranger has bad breath(pop-ups) :jester:


I love my fiskars


----------



## Techstuf

All the Fiskars admiration makes me wonder what the experienced manual splitter types on the forum could come up with if they put their heads together.

The question is:

Can the Fiskars SS be improved upon?


TS


----------



## myzamboni

Techstuf said:


> All the Fiskars admiration makes me wonder what the experienced manual splitter types on the forum could come up with if they put their heads together.
> 
> The question is:
> 
> Can the Fiskars SS be improved upon?
> 
> 
> TS



Self-aiming is the only other feature I would be looking for.


----------



## Philbert

Techstuf said:


> All the Fiskars admiration makes me wonder what the experienced manual splitter types on the forum could come up with if they put their heads together. The question is: Can the Fiskars SS be improved upon? TS



I'm sure that it can, but not sure how (depleted uranium tip?).

It also raises the question of whether the wedges on powered splitters could be improved to allow them to split tougher logs, with less force, etc. Most of them were probably designed to be 'good enough'. or for durability or simplicity to make, not optimized for splitting.

Philbert


----------



## Richard_

the only thing I don't like about the Fiskars , you have to wear gloves to absorb the shock , I thought about spraying expanding foam into the handle to see if that would help


----------



## Techstuf

> you have to wear gloves to absorb the shock



You ain't kidding....I've learned the hard way to keep my swings below 90% of what I've got.

The *hard* way.

As attested to by my torn left shoulder and swollen second joint of the right hand index finger.


TS


----------



## blis

Richard_ said:


> the only thing I don't like about the Fiskars , you have to wear gloves to absorb the shock , I thought about spraying expanding foam into the handle to see if that would help



ummm.... you do know that you're supposed to loosen your grip just a little bit before the impact, so that you dont take all the shock into your joints...


----------



## AKKAMAAN

blis said:


> ummm.... you do know that you're supposed to loosen your grip just a little bit before the impact, so that you dont take all the shock into your joints...



that's right, with a loose grip you can hit a 300 yd drive too...just a 4/5grip...:agree2:


----------



## Techstuf

blis said:


> ummm.... you do know that you're supposed to loosen your grip just a little bit before the impact, so that you dont take all the shock into your joints...



Lose your cool and do it wrong just once on the wrong piece of wood and can you say 'torn rotator cuff'?

Ow.


----------



## Taxmantoo

Techstuf said:


> Can the Fiskars SS be improved upon?



*36" handle.*


----------



## AKKAMAAN

taxmantoo said:


> *36" handle.*




:agree2:

would you take 36" handle for a 50% raised price?


----------



## nocdpc

Philbert said:


> I'm sure that it can, but not sure how (depleted uranium tip?).
> 
> It also raises the question of whether the wedges on powered splitters could be improved to allow them to split tougher logs, with less force, etc. Most of them were probably designed to be 'good enough'. or for durability or simplicity to make, not optimized for splitting.
> 
> Philbert



To Philberts point on the edge of the axe. The Fiskars is super sharp compared to lets say a standard splitting maul. Is there a wood wastage factor based on the edge of a axe? I have seen some log splitters with very sharp edges and some with less then sharp edges. Would one particular edge lend itself to more wood shavings which equals more wood being wasted in the form of small chips or shavings? Something to think about.


----------



## Philbert

nocdpc said:


> Would one particular edge lend itself to more wood shavings which equals more wood being wasted in the form of small chips or shavings?



Don't think wood shavings are an issue with splitters. Takes one piece of wood and splits it into 2. There might be an issue with one dulling faster than another, or one working better in one type of wood (species, size, frozen, etc.) than another.

Philbert


----------



## nocdpc

Philbert said:


> Don't think wood shavings are an issue with splitters. Takes one piece of wood and splits it into 2. There might be an issue with one dulling faster than another, or one working better in one type of wood (species, size, frozen, etc.) than another.
> 
> Philbert



maybe a off topic or should be put in splitter thread but even with a axe there are small pieces that fall off that do not make it to the stack pile. A hydrolic splitter is more prevelent to wood shaving and chips.


----------



## Northland

AKKAMAAN said:


> Hone with a RL="http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6042"]dry or wet stone[/URL]



Your right again Akkamaan.

I cut down a number of dead maple trees on Monday while my trails were still snow covered. I skidded them out with my tractor, bucked them and started splitting the rounds. 

I split a few of the rounds on the ground and ended up with a few small chips on the cutting edge of my FSS axe. From now on I will use my splitting stump with the two tires nailed to it-much easier splitting with no axe edge damage.

I tried sharpening the FSS with my Fiskars sharpener but I found the FSS edge was too large to fit into the sharpener groove. So, I used my $10 round axe stone and brought back the edge better then new.


----------



## hoot gibson

i have read alot of this , but to keep me digging deeper , how well does this axe work on harder to split wood . like elm ? h


----------



## paulthepunk

I've got a lot of wood to split this month so I've ordered a "Super Spliting Axe", all I can say is, it better be Super!! If not I blame all of you on AS!!!


----------



## max2cam

TreePointer said:


> You are correct, but I had read all the tips here and on other sites and watched the movies. I simply went out to try it on a couple medium sized rounds before it got dark. The biggest problem was that I didn't compensate for the shorter length of the axe (I usually split with a much longer 8# maul). For the big rounds in your video, it seems that the axe swinger compensates for the Fiskars' shorter handle by using his back to extend the reach of the handle and lengthen the swinging arc--bigger arc means the axe head's path of travel would go into the ground farther away from the feet. I think that's why folks wish it had a longer handle.



Perfectly correct. I cut my foot with the Fiskars Super Splitter EXACTLY in the same spot you did (see avatar). I just got it and was swinging it like a 6 lb long handle maul. BIG mistake. It glanced off a log and arced into my foot, cut thru boot, etc. No stitches but I still have a small scar.

Since then I've been leaning out more and striking straight down and have had no problem. It's a good tool but can also be a sharp-tongued mean little ##### if you don't watch out.


----------



## max2cam

hoot gibson said:


> i have read alot of this , but to keep me digging deeper , how well does this axe work on harder to split wood . like elm ? h



Good question. I've got some 8-10" rounds of American elm just cut that the Monster Maul just bounced off of. I was going to saw them up into smaller pieces but will try the Super Splitter first. I'll be surprised if it can split elm. That stuff is impossible. Glad I don't have much of it.


----------



## utilityman

I have a one and love it. Great for driving plastic wedges.
I also cut my self pretty bad with it, helping my son split some huge black willow blocks that were punky. The ax went through the block like a hot knife through butter and cut through my pants into my shin. I wanted to finish the job before we headed home so i bandaged my leg and kept going. Finally had to stop because my boot filled up with blood. My wife took me to the emergency room for stitches.....5 of them.


----------



## thombat4

*Yeeeouch!!!*



utilityman said:


> I have a one and love it. Great for driving plastic wedges.
> I also cut my self pretty bad with it, helping my son split some huge black willow blocks that were punky. The ax went through the block like a hot knife through butter and cut through my pants into my shin. I wanted to finish the job before we headed home so i bandaged my leg and kept going. Finally had to stop because my boot filled up with blood. My wife took me to the emergency room for stitches.....5 of them.




I've had a couple near miss' now I'm really gonna be mindful...take care dude.


----------



## Northland

I tried splitting wood on the ground with the FSS but I just ended up chipping the axe's edge and having the axe glance off my rounds a few times.

So, I started always using my two-tire splitting stump. It's safe and effective and the added bonus is that you never have to pick up the split pieces and reposition them on the stump.


----------



## Brushwacker

max2cam said:


> Good question. I've got some 8-10" rounds of American elm just cut that the Monster Maul just bounced off of. I was going to saw them up into smaller pieces but will try the Super Splitter first. I'll be surprised if it can split elm. That stuff is impossible. Glad I don't have much of it.



The fiskars in dry oak will stick and I had some black oak that was giving it more problems then worth the effort. For the first time since I bought the fiskars I put the monster maul to the wood and the same blocks were splitting with 2 to 4 well placed swings. I imagine the fiskars will not split elm any better then the monster maul.
If I could only have 1 it would be the fiskars. Most of the green wood I split , with the fiskars it was much less effort on my part with significantly less impact on my body through the handle. It stashes in the vehicle with out the bulk and it is comfortable to reach over and grab it to pull out of the truck or tool box with 1 hand any where on the tool.
I haven't come close to cutting into myself . I try too keep my legs apart which puts me closer to the ground (I'm 6') and my feet farther away from the proposed striking area. Would like to try a longer handle myself as I believe it would have advantages.
It may have been mentioned already , but I will confirm I myself have hit a few knotty green pieces hard and the axe head bounced back within 6 inches of my forehead so use caution when hitting tough pieces at high speeds.


----------



## GrizzlyAdams86

My friend tried out the Fiskars after using his 10 Ib. sledge and splitting wedge, and he was impressed. As was a farmer I cut wood for who has used one of those monster orange mauls for years. But for use on elm, it varies for me.


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## bwmcintyre

*1st Year*

Been burning this past year for the first time. I have had the True Temper splitter (busted the back of the head already) and an 8 lb maul this year to split roughly 3 cords with. I just bought the Fiskar Super Splitter a few weeks back, and I wish I had it last fall when I got started splitting! 

One other problem I've noticed with the lighter ax, if I am working on a really tough log, I've had the ax bounce back .. nearly to the point that I thought I was going to knock myself out! Wouldn't that be fun to explain to my insurance company?


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## Dalmatian90

> I've had the ax bounce back .. nearly to the point that I thought I was going to knock myself out! Wouldn't that be fun to explain to my insurance company?



Yeah, but what would really make them bust a gut laughing is when you continue on, "then after passing out I dropped the axe, which is how I amputated my toes..."

:hmm3grin2orange:


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## paulthepunk

Got the axe and gave it a blast today in some knotty stuff, really seemed to work well. Did have one near miss, but raised my block up and it works fine. Thanks everyone for bringing this axe to my attention, I think it will save me a good deal of effort this year!


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## Mike PA

I got mine yesterday and tried it on 24" white pine. Didn't do much. Ace sunk in .5 inch and pused water out. Almost couldn't see the mark when I pulled it out. Hope it works better when it dries.

Tried it on 10-12" chestnut oak and it blew right through. Same on some hackberry. Overall, it looks good, but maybe not for the big nearly live ones?


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## Qsky

Anybody used the Fiskars sharpener for the super splitter???


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## AKKAMAAN

Qsky said:


> Anybody used the Fiskars sharpener for the super splitter???



If we are talking about the same thing... "the rolling stone" sharpener


honestly I have one and I love it....BUT not for my Super Splitter....this is basically a kitchen knife sharpener, it has been around for like almost 30 years as a knife sharpener... I bought my first one in the 80's....nothing can beat a fine flat file together with a dual wet stone, course and fine......use the file to fix the dents...


----------



## peterc38

Qsky said:


> Anybody used the Fiskars sharpener for the super splitter???




I use it. It works great.

:greenchainsaw:


----------



## AKKAMAAN

peterc38 said:


> I use it. It works great.
> 
> :greenchainsaw:



Well then I'll try it....I'll report back...


----------



## Dakotas Dad

Qsky said:


> Anybody used the Fiskars sharpener for the super splitter???



Yes, works well, and is the one recommended by Fiskars.. If you put a decent ding in your edge, I doubt it will clean that up, but of course, the easy thing to say is "don't ding your edge".. haven't so far, but figure if I do it will take some file and stone time to fix.


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## bgiles117

Ordered Mine Yesterday from Amazon, will be here tomorrow. I'll give my report. I hope it is all you guys say....

I have a ton of Oak left to split and the Maul has been wearing me out.


----------



## bgiles117

Just spent 6 hours chopping up some of the Knottiest and twisted wood with my NEW Fiskars SSA.

I Love this thing... 2 hits on most straight wood I have hit. Smaller pcs, 1 and done. MUCH less effort. Definitely an Aerobic Workout like one guy said.

I Bought mine with the sharpener. Noticed some denting at the tip, but it in No wise impaired my ability to split some 12 - 24" wood. Used it as a chopping axe on some small pieces Much too heavy for regular use, but I think I'll buy the Hatchet and the CHopping Axe from them.

This thing is awesome. I am glad I saw AKKAMAAN's videos and usage tips before I starting chopping away, else I too may have been the victim of a missing Limb.

I am 6'0 Tall and Personally I enjoyed the shorter handle. SO I have to deviate from the group think concerning a longer handle.

Thanks for all the reviews here. Another Great Purchase.


----------



## MNGuns

I love mine. If I can't split it in a couple swings then it goes in the pile for the hyd splitter. After several years of jet engine noise, I do enjoy the quiet of the Fiskar over the hyd unit.


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## FarmTough

After reading this thread about the Fiskars I went ahead and picked one up a while back and it's been great. On the bigger stuff, one hit to the front, back and it'll break with one last blow in the middle.


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## Northwind

I really like mine!


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## max2cam

Brushwacker said:


> The fiskars in dry oak will stick and I had some black oak that was giving it more problems then worth the effort. For the first time since I bought the fiskars I put the monster maul to the wood and the same blocks were splitting with 2 to 4 well placed swings. I imagine the fiskars will not split elm any better then the monster maul.
> If I could only have 1 it would be the fiskars. Most of the green wood I split , with the fiskars it was much less effort on my part with significantly less impact on my body through the handle. It stashes in the vehicle with out the bulk and it is comfortable to reach over and grab it to pull out of the truck or tool box with 1 hand any where on the tool.
> I haven't come close to cutting into myself . I try too keep my legs apart which puts me closer to the ground (I'm 6') and my feet farther away from the proposed striking area. Would like to try a longer handle myself as I believe it would have advantages.
> It may have been mentioned already , but I will confirm I myself have hit a few knotty green pieces hard and the axe head bounced back within 6 inches of my forehead so use caution when hitting tough pieces at high speeds.



Quite right. I tried the Fiskars on 10" elm rounds and it bounced off to no effect. Elm is impossible. Glad I don't have much.

I haven't had any further trouble with the fiskars since modifying my stance. I use it on the ground with rounds inside a tire. The ground is fine pure sand so I don't get any dents.

The bounce back phenomenon is somthing to keep in mind. Thanks!


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## cjcocn

That's odd. I split my elm rounds with the Fiskars and it handled them well. I split them in the winter and no round was bigger than about 20" or so.


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## bgiles117

I have been splitting some elm since yesterday. It takes some work, but it is a lot easier than with my maul. And less back breaking.


----------



## Squirrel's Drey

All day splitting red oak & silver maple rounds, had the 8lb. near by which I did have to use just a few times on some knotty rounds.
Second day of splitting and the Fiskars got first blood.
Right index finger, trying to rock the stuck splitter out of a round - had to be my trigger finger didn't't it.
Good axe for it's purpose, as posted many times before "The Longer Handle".
So with my finger bleeding profusely, and me asking my wife calmly for surgical tape, I just dripped blood all over the axe. Some kind of Nordic ritual this splitter is hungry for I guess.


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## bgiles117

I'll Be honest. After watching Akkamaans wise videos. I have not drawn one iota of blood. I showed my boys the vids and reminded them to swing to the rear and they have been issue free since they have picked this puppy up.

SAFETY FIRST!!!!! Now we have splitting competitions. LOL.

I find with the knotty rounds and the SSA, just keep to the edges and let the velocity do the work. MUCH LESS strenuous. My 8lb sits in the kitchen wishing it could come out and play.

Think it's time to buy a 2nd one so we can split in Tandem. (Backup isn't a bad idea either)


----------



## Brushwacker

cjcocn said:


> That's odd. I split my elm rounds with the Fiskars and it handled them well. I split them in the winter and no round was bigger than about 20" or so.



Green splits easiar then dry, frozen is much easier to crack open.


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## mangler

Are there any Canadians here that have been able to get there hands on a Super Splitting Axe? The Pro Splitting is the biggest I can find around Edmonton, and no one (CanTire, Rona, Home Depot, Timberland) will place a special order for me.

I've found a few places that sell on-line in the states (amazon is one), but they will not ship to Canada.


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## Northland

Your right the SSA is not available in Canada.

I live in Ontario and confirmed with Fiskars Canada that the Super Splitter Axe isn't available here prior to ordering one on an EBay store. Fortunatly I live on a border town and use a Michigan address for all my web purchases.


----------



## mangler

Northland said:


> Your right the SSA is not available in Canada.
> 
> I live in Ontario and confirmed with Fiskars Canada that the Super Splitter Axe isn't available here prior to ordering one on an EBay store. Fortunatly I live on a border town and use a Michigan address for all my web purchases.



Thanks for confirming that. I wonder why? I guess no one noticed that we have a few big trees up here too.

If any Yanks out there would be willing to help a Canuck out and ship one up to me, I'd be happy to throw in some extra cash for your trouble.


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## MotorSeven

mangler said:


> Thanks for confirming that. I wonder why? I guess no one noticed that we have a few big trees up here too.
> 
> If any Yanks out there would be willing to help a Canuck out and ship one up to me, I'd be happy to throw in some extra cash for your trouble.



Man I'd hate to see you get hit with the dreaded "Doooty". Came thru Peace Garden last year with an "extra" case of Miller....they banged me $16. 
If I can find one here, I'll send it back with the SIL next month & she could then ship it to you from MB. 

RD


----------



## mangler

MotorSeven said:


> Man I'd hate to see you get hit with the dreaded "Doooty". Came thru Peace Garden last year with an "extra" case of Miller....they banged me $16.
> If I can find one here, I'll send it back with the SIL next month & she could then ship it to you from MB.
> 
> RD



Thanks, RD, but I think I've got it covered. I found a mail forwarding service called "The Letter Carrier". You use their U.S. address as the ship-to, and for a small fee they will forward the package on to your own address. I just placed an order with Amazon a couple of days ago, and it is scheduled for delivery at The Letter Carrier today, so we'll see how it goes.

I don't find the duty to be too bad (except for liquor by the sounds of it), but the customs fees are brutal if using UPS, FedEx, etc. USPS/Canada Post is best - a flat $5 customs charge regardless of the value of the merchandise.


----------



## Northland

mangler said:


> Thanks, RD, but I think I've got it covered. I found a mail forwarding service called "The Letter Carrier". You use their U.S. address as the ship-to, and for a small fee they will forward the package on to your own address. I just placed an order with Amazon a couple of days ago, and it is scheduled for delivery at The Letter Carrier today, so we'll see how it goes.
> 
> I don't find the duty to be too bad (except for liquor by the sounds of it), but the customs fees are brutal if using UPS, FedEx, etc. USPS/Canada Post is best - a flat $5 customs charge regardless of the value of the merchandise.



You got that right about the brokerage fees from UPS and FedEx.

There are no duties on 99% of purchases since NAFTA kicked in. I buy lots of items in Michigan and never pay duty. I even bought my tractor in Michigan and only paid provincial and federal sales taxes when I brought it over to Canada.


----------



## mangler

Northland said:


> You got that right about the brokerage fees from UPS and FedEx.
> 
> There are no duties on 99% of purchases since NAFTA kicked in. I buy lots of items in Michigan and never pay duty. I even bought my tractor in Michigan and only paid provincial and federal sales taxes when I brought it over to Canada.



Correct. Anything made in the U.S. (and Mexico??) --even partially-- would not be subject to duties. However, as you know, most things nowadays are made elsewhere, so duties still apply on a lot of different products.


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## Northland

mangler said:


> Correct. Anything made in the U.S. (and Mexico??) --even partially-- would not be subject to duties. However, as you know, most things nowadays are made elsewhere, so duties still apply on a lot of different products.



Actually no they don't. I am in Michigan at least once an week to fill-up my truck and pick-up on-line purchases. Many of the items are made off-shore but duties don't apply or at least Canadian Border Service doesn't care. My Kubota was US$16K, made in Japan (but assembled in the US) and yet they only charged me the applicable sales tax. 

They do however charge tax on items purchased that are bought used because no Canadian tax has ever been collected on the item. Last week I bought a used kayak (it was originally made in Quebec) for US$1100 and I had to pay sales tax on the boat when I brought it home. Same thing happened with the used US made box blade I bought a few months ago.


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## TJ-Bill

Well I broke my axe on the weekend spiltting some big maple. I need a new one and after reading some of these reviews I think I know what I'm getting..
Only thing is i'n in Canada and I can't get the SSA unless I order it BUT my local store has the Pro axe on sale 25% off right now. Should I go for it? I'd like to have one by the weekend so I can keep spliting. I guess it's only $40 so if it's not quite up to par i'm not out that much.

Anyone compared the 2? I didn't read all 18 pages so I might have missed it.


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## bgiles117

TJ-Bill said:


> Well I broke my axe on the weekend spiltting some big maple.



Funny, I read this line and my heart sunk. 

His SSA died. LOL. then I read the rest of his posting realizing he was speaking of his OTHER axe. LOL

I just chopped up a Maple tree last weekend with my SSA.

Yesterday I split 30' of trunk from a cottonwood tree. Nice workout. Heart rate up. Better than riding a bike IMO. LOL.

Go SSA, learn a proper chopping stance for it and you will never lose a leg or wear yourself out again. Keep the hydro splitters. They do nothing for you regarding exercise.

Are you speaking of the pro splitting axe or the Pro Chopping Axe, Just being clear.


----------



## Northland

TJ-Bill said:


> Well I broke my axe on the weekend spiltting some big maple. I need a new one and after reading some of these reviews I think I know what I'm getting..
> Only thing is i'n in Canada and I can't get the SSA unless I order it BUT my local store has the Pro axe on sale 25% off right now. Should I go for it? I'd like to have one by the weekend so I can keep spliting. I guess it's only $40 so if it's not quite up to par i'm not out that much.
> 
> Anyone compared the 2? I didn't read all 18 pages so I might have missed it.



I'd buy the Pro splitting axe if you can't get the SSA. The Pro has a 2.25lb head and the SSA has a 4.5lb head. I have the brush axe, that I take on my daily hikes with the dogs, to cut down the growth on my trails. It's another great tool. I use it for bear protection as well. I also have the 14" hatchet that I use for kindling 

http://www.fiskars.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10101&categoryId=10277


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## TJ-Bill

I'm heading out tonight after work to get the Pro splitting axe.. If I like maybe I'll try and order the SSA


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## AKKAMAAN

TJ-Bill said:


> I'm heading out tonight after work to get the Pro splitting axe.. If I like maybe I'll try and order the SSA



Do not expect this other axe, PSA, perform like FSSA....lighter head and different head design ("regular" axe head)....If I could help you I would...
They have them in stock in my local ACE hardware store 49$ plus change and tax.Give me a call if you want me to buy you one and ship it to you.

I hate to see you buy something you really dont need/want.....


----------



## TJ-Bill

AKKAMAAN said:


> Do not expect this other axe, PSA, perform like FSSA....lighter head and different head design ("regular" axe head)....If I could help you I would...
> They have them in stock in my local ACE hardware store 49$ plus change and tax.Give me a call if you want me to buy you one and ship it to you.
> 
> I hate to see you buy something you really dont need/want.....



I might take you up on that..

I did get the axe tonight, I looked at it at the store and though WTF.. but I bought it anyway.. I used it for abit tonight, I can see it's advantages, spilts smaller stuff like othing. It's so light that you get great head speed out of it, way faster then using my old 8lbs.. Right now I'm spliting some large peices of Maple 14-18" Dia.. This little guy isn't really up to it. I honestly didn't expect it to bw since I split my other axe head try to split this stuff. I'll keep using it for abit and see how I like it.. 1 thing I can say is that I don't nearly work as hard using the Fiskars as my old axe.







PS.. in this pic I couldn't even get my other axe to stick in the wood beside the Friskars, kept bouncing off laughing at me!!


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## rmotoman

I ordered the SSA off Ebay yesterday. I have some Osage Orange to split. I can't afford an hydraulic splitter so I will give a try.

Rick


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## bgiles117

rmotoman said:


> I ordered the SSA off Ebay yesterday. I have some Osage Orange to split. I can't afford an hydraulic splitter so I will give a try.
> 
> Rick



Haven't used a Hydro yet. Have split everything but this one wood, which I cant identify. Too twisted to get through. I'll post a photo tomorrow. Perhaps someone can tell me what it is.

Addendum. The wood is Sycamore. The axe just bounces off. Best I could do was take about 3" off the outside before it was OVER. LOL.


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## Sennie

Howdy all...
Just a Canadian chiming in a thanks to you lads for educating me some on the SS axe. I have the pro, and love it. Can't wait for the SS to arrive.

I ordered from the Ace Hardware Outlet.. they ship to Canada. I'll pay the duty fees, for an easier time splitting this elm I have to go through.. and some of the larger, knottier maple.

thanks again


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## AKKAMAAN

Sennie said:


> Howdy all...
> Just a Canadian chiming in a thanks to you lads for educating me some on the SS axe. I have the pro, and love it. Can't wait for the SS to arrive.
> 
> I ordered from the Ace Hardware Outlet.. they ship to Canada. I'll pay the duty fees, for an easier time splitting this elm I have to go through.. and some of the larger, knottier maple.
> 
> thanks again



Thank you for reading our forum!
welcome to our community and Good luck with your FSS.


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## chainsawaddict

wow, thats about all I can say. This SSA is incredible. I should have bought it two years ago when i first heard about it, but thought it was too 'gimmicky'


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## cjcocn

chainsawaddict said:


> wow, thats about all I can say. This SSA is incredible. I should have bought it two years ago when i first heard about it, but thought it was too 'gimmicky'



Sweet piece of equipment, isn't it? 

I had to get mine sent up from Michigan as they do not sell them in Canada. It was worth it and mine went through that elm I had out back like nobody's business!


----------



## chainsawaddict

cjcocn said:


> Sweet piece of equipment, isn't it?
> 
> I had to get mine sent up from Michigan as they do not sell them in Canada. It was worth it and mine went through that elm I had out back like nobody's business!



seriously, I cannot believe how much better it is than an 8lb maul. It is not even comprable.


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## bgiles117

chainsawaddict said:


> seriously, I cannot believe how much better it is than an 8lb maul. It is not even comprable.



Thats how I felt when I picked mine up a few months ago. 13 cords Later, No turning back


----------



## injun joe

well i dotn own 1 own these axes YET. but i just bought 1 off ebay, but i know when i am splitting and i have a short handle i usually kneel down on my knees and put the wood up on the splitting block or even just set the wood in front of me on the ground.


----------



## Philbert

Sennie said:


> I ordered from the Ace Hardware Outlet.. they ship to Canada. I'll pay the duty fees, for an easier time splitting this elm I have to go through.. and some of the larger, knottier maple.



Bailey's is now carrying the Fiskars axes and mauls.

Philbert


----------



## Webevan

*can it pound a wedge?*

Product looks great on line, but will the poll drive in a wedge? Also, if the handle does break, it's garbage right? You cant hang a new handle in that head can you?


----------



## bgiles117

Webevan said:


> Product looks great on line, but will the poll drive in a wedge? Also, if the handle does break, it's garbage right? You cant hang a new handle in that head can you?



If you abuse the axe, you will destroy it. if you use it for it;s intended purpose.. splitting wood, i doubt you will have any issues.

I wouldn't use this for pounding wedges it has a 4lb head. I keep a small sledge hammer or my maul handy for that work. What say the others??


----------



## chad3

If you break the handle because you were using it to split, lifetime guarantee. If you were doing something wrong, well, you used the wrong tool for the job.


----------



## bgiles117

chad3 said:


> If you were doing something wrong, well, you used the wrong tool for the job.



Agreed!!! Respect Your Tools.

We have split over 25 cords of wood with this axe. The only thing that has happened is the orange has faded.


----------



## Dalmatian90

> but will the poll drive in a wedge?



Its an ax. Not a hammer.


----------



## Webevan

*thanks for nothing*

I was asking a question, dont respond to me like I was stupid. It was listed as a splitting maul, most mauls are intended to drive a wedge as well as split. So let me get this straight, you cant drive a wedge with it, and it is a splitting maul? sounds like an inferior tool to me. Why would I buy a maul and a sledge, when other mauls act as a sledge in one tool. I sure dont want to be lugging more tools than I need to to a job.


----------



## Dakotas Dad

Webevan said:


> I was asking a question, dont respond to me like I was stupid. It was listed as a splitting maul, most mauls are intended to drive a wedge as well as split. So let me get this straight, you cant drive a wedge with it, and it is a splitting maul? sounds like an inferior tool to me. Why would I buy a maul and a sledge, when other mauls act as a sledge in one tool. I sure dont want to be lugging more tools than I need to to a job.



No it's listed as a splitting AXE. Not a maul.

http://tinyurl.com/ycoqqdk


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## AKKAMAAN

Webevan said:


> I was asking a question, dont respond to me like I was stupid. It was listed as a splitting maul, most mauls are intended to drive a wedge as well as split. So let me get this straight, you cant drive a wedge with it, and it is a splitting maul? sounds like an inferior tool to me. Why would I buy a maul and a sledge, when other mauls act as a sledge in one tool. I sure dont want to be lugging more tools than I need to to a job.



this is not the regular 8# "beef" tool you buy for 8-14$ at every hardware store....I would call it a "high performance tool" for splitting firewood....so depending on how you want to respect this tool.....you can use it different ways....for me personally....IT IS JUST A TOOL.....a dead tool....not a pet or anything else that have a life.....I bought it because I wanted a tool that could stay outdoors, in rain and snow, cold and hot, dry and wet, all year around without getting a rutten wood handle....so I use my two FSS's to punch each other if they occasionly get stuck, or if it is a way too tough round to split....and they might get a dent or two, here and there....in my opinion...the FSS is made to take a tough beat.....and if #### happens....break a shaft or what ever....I WILL TAKE IT BACK TO THE STORE AND CLAIM A LIFETIME WARRANTY.....no matter how the accident happened.....Fiskars shows a commersial where a tractor run over the shaft with out breaking it.....Then I take advantage of this ability too.....THESE FISKARS ARE MADE TO BE "BADASS" DURABLE AXES/MAULS....

I sure do respect others way to "respect" their tools, but I am not putting 500hp offroad pick-up truck in the garage, and only drive 35mph on a nicely paved neighborhood street......

And the most damages I have on my FSS's so far is that my German Shepherd made some chewing on the shaft.....which actually gave it a better grip too.....LOL...

EDIT: Ok, i am using the term maul occasionly, and I agree that it is an AXE....
BTW good post Dalmation90


----------



## Dalmatian90

> I was asking a question, don't respond to me like I was stupid.



I didn't respond like you were stupid.

I stated it is an ax, not a hammer. You didn't state whether you were talking about felling or splitting wedges in your original post. 

I do use my Fiskars on occasion to set felling wedges. I would never subject it, or any ax, to the abuse of using it like a sledge hammer to drive wedges. I would hope no one understanding it is an ax would use it to drive splitting wedges.

Fiskars is quite clear -- their name for it is "Super Splitting Axe."

Anyone who calls it or lists it as a splitting maul does so incorrectly. It is not a maul.

For most wood I and many other folks split, the 4-1/4# Fiskars axe does the job with less effort, less impact on our muscles and joints, and allows us to work longer then using an 8# maul. 90% of my splitting can be done with the Fiskars. 

The other 10% needs other tools -- a chainsaw to noodle, a wedge-and-sledge, or donating it to the neighbor's logsplitter pile because its not worth my time to split by hand.


----------



## max2cam

I like my Fiskars SS too. Only use Monster Maul and 6 lb now and then for special cases.

Be careful using it until you understand that it is NOT the same as a longer handled maul and modify your stance and swing accordingly.

One thing I have noticed about the hollow handle is that it can fill up with water and then possibly freeze and crack. I found ice in mine one day.


----------



## eshishlo

This is my first post here. I actually came here because I looking for a good splitting ax or maul. I had a whole pile of locust and only a small Craftsman ax that I used for camping. I first bought a maul from Lowes. It wasn't bad, but I picked up a Fiskars SS and promptly returned the maul to Lowes since I had only split 3 rounds. I have always wondered how the head of the Fiskars is held on to the handle.
If someone has a broken Fiskars ax, I would like to see a picture and if you send the ax to me I will pay the shipping. opcorn:


----------



## AKKAMAAN

eshishlo said:


> I have always wondered how the head of the Fiskars is held on to the handle.



I think the plastic composite handle is "casted" in one piece, into the head...would not be surprized if the head have a "complex" hollow structure, to make secure the whole thing....the plastic composite iyself, must have some secret too...


----------



## Rudedog

Thanks for the helpful advice in this thread. I just ordered a Fiskars Super Splitter and a 48" Timberjack from Baileys.


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## eshishlo

I am wondering if it is similar to the ax head in this thread?

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=125888


----------



## AKKAMAAN

eshishlo said:


> I am wondering if it is similar to the ax head in this thread?
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=125888



yes I think its pretty close...this is definately another head though....


----------



## mmartone

Well after reading all 20 pages, I had to have one. I spent half the morning runing to lowes, HD, and on the phone to Ace and a few other places in Panama city and could not locate one, my first stop was sears and they were closed. After cub scouts tonight I went to sears and there next to the Fiskars chopping axe $29.99 was the SSA for 39.99, wwoohhooo, the price difference threw me off :monkey: but it was in stock ,got the 9.99 sharpener too. Well I bought it and took it home and tried it on some stuff I had trimmed in the yard, the unknow wood split like it was nothing, magic dust in the handle or something. Then to the Camphor, that stuffs like rubber, but after you split off some of the outside it gets easier, for being not much more than a camp axe its amazing. Thanks for the good advice.


----------



## Rudedog

Thanks for the info. I didn't think Sears carried that. I ordered on Baileys, but it is on backorder. I may look at Sears tomorrow evening.


----------



## navanman

Greetings from Ireland!

Many thanks for the excellent advice on your forum, I too bought a Fiskars SSA from Baileys and had it shipped to Ireland as it is not sold here at all!

It is the mutts nuts and am totally satisfied with it. Worth every penny, got the sport axe and the sharpener for good measure. No need for a maul when you have the SSA!


----------



## AKKAMAAN

navanman said:


> Greetings from Ireland!
> 
> Many thanks for the excellent advice on your forum, I too bought a Fiskars SSA from Baileys and had it shipped to Ireland as it is not sold here at all!
> 
> It is the mutts nuts and am totally satisfied with it. Worth every penny, got the sport axe and the sharpener for good measure. No need for a maul when you have the SSA!



Congrats navanman!!!
And welcome to our forum.....
Why don't start a Fiskars business now.....whole Ireland as a market....you could sell a lot of these FSS Axes.....
I have some (811) Irish viewers on my Youtube video....LOL
Good Luck with your Fiskars....
Also on Facebook now
<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/WoAOYLMU1Wc&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/WoAOYLMU1Wc&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>


----------



## navanman

Many thanks AKKAMAAN, excellent video.
Stance as shown is all important and working your way around the log. Like the cord to keep everything upright. Nice wood store by the way, something to aim for myself!
Wood stoves are getting very popular here ,might write to Fiskars, who knows they might give me demo SSA!


----------



## AKKAMAAN

navanman said:


> Many thanks AKKAMAAN, excellent video.
> Stance as shown is all important and working your way around the log. Like the cord to keep everything upright. Nice wood store by the way, something to aim for myself!
> Wood stoves are getting very popular here ,might write to Fiskars, who knows they might give me demo SSA!



I wish I had done it here....I have probobly "sold" hundreds just here at this forum....hahahaha....
GO FOR IT!!
We will all help you out with promotions and "ads"......hahahaha

Happy St.Patricks day to you, little late but maybe you celebrate all week long....LOL....


----------



## Rudedog

navanman said:


> Many thanks AKKAMAAN, excellent video.
> Stance as shown is all important and working your way around the log. Like the cord to keep everything upright. Nice wood store by the way, something to aim for myself!
> Wood stoves are getting very popular here ,might write to Fiskars, who knows they might give me demo SSA!



+1, the video was very helpful. Really helps illistrate the technique mentioned in prior posts. I can't wait till mine shows up.


----------



## andygo

*so how much would you pay for one??*

Interesting thread this - especially following the comments from the navanman who lives just across the water from me....

After my woodpile broke a cheap electric splitter in just 3 hours last December  .....I did a bit more research into the best way to split logs...and eventually stumbled across this thread (and a few others) which all recommended the Fiskars SSA.
Great, I thought, I'll rush out and buy one....only to find they don't sell them in the UK. The only place I could get one was from a mail order company which imported it from Germany.....the cost (including delivery).....67 pounds...which is roughly $107. :jawdrop:

I didn't think US stores would ship to the UK.

Don't get me wrong I like the axe and it splits as well as everyone says....but I'd be interested to see how much people would pay for one.....

Andy

By the way AKKAMAAN you may want to seriously have a look at selling them over here.
Before I bought the German one I emailed Fiskars in Finland to ask where I could buy one in the UK. 
They passed me on to FISKARS UK - which ironically is just 20 miles down the road from me....they sell virtually every other piece of Fiskars kit over here....except the axes....when I asked why, they said there was no demand.....maybe your youtube stats could prove otherwise....


----------



## AKKAMAAN

andygo said:


> Interesting thread this - especially following the comments from the navanman who lives just across the water from me....
> 
> After my woodpile broke a cheap electric splitter in just 3 hours last December  .....I did a bit more research into the best way to split logs...and eventually stumbled across this thread (and a few others) which all recommended the Fiskars SSA.
> Great, I thought, I'll rush out and buy one....only to find they don't sell them in the UK. The only place I could get one was from a mail order company which imported it from Germany.....the cost (including delivery).....67 pounds...which is roughly $107. :jawdrop:
> 
> I didn't think US stores would ship to the UK.
> 
> Don't get me wrong I like the axe and it splits as well as everyone says....but I'd be interested to see how much people would pay for one.....
> 
> Andy
> 
> By the way AKKAMAAN you may want to seriously have a look at selling them over here.
> Before I bought the German one I emailed Fiskars in Finland to ask where I could buy one in the UK.
> They passed me on to FISKARS UK - which ironically is just 20 miles down the road from me....they sell virtually every other piece of Fiskars kit over here....except the axes....when I asked why, they said there was no demand.....maybe your youtube stats could prove otherwise....



I would be happy to send you 10 pieces of FFS, and you can sell them...just to test the market....My Ace HW store here in port Angeles WA, always have 2-6 FSS's in stock....shot me a PM if you want to set it up....I ship autoparts, shoes, etc, from here every month, to friends back in sweden....
:agree2:


----------



## Philbert

Well, it's not perfect. This week I had some fairly fresh ash sections that I was splitting up, including some crotch sections. Some pieces split easily, some took a few whacks, and a few actually bounced right off, Surprised me that it did not bite in just a little.

Philbert


----------



## Rudedog

I got mine today UPS from Sears. I went to the Caps game so I couldn't try it out. Gonna try it on some red oak tomorrow.


----------



## keith811

splitting axes are great. mine is called the chopper. as for the people having probs with hitting themselves with them you may have to adjust your style to account for the shorter handle. or from the sounds of some of the post just learn how to split would in the first place.


----------



## bsearcey

The FSSA rocks! I've been using it to split mainly red oak (which is pretty easy to split anyway), but man going through the rounds is almost effortless. Alot of the larger rounds I was able to pie up with the whole round standing up like in AKKAMAANs youtube video, but without the bungee. That was awesome. It even makes splitting crotch pieces easier. Besides the fact that it is a badass splitting axe I love the fact that you get virtually no shock up the handle.


----------



## Rudedog

bsearcey said:


> The FSSA rocks! I've been using it to split mainly red oak (which is pretty easy to split anyway), but man going through the rounds is almost effortless. Alot of the larger rounds I was able to pie up with the whole round standing up like in AKKAMAANs youtube video, but without the bungee. That was awesome. It even makes splitting crotch pieces easier. Besides the fact that it is a badass splitting axe I love the fact that you get virtually no shock up the handle.



EVERYthing he said. Best $40 bucks plus shipping I have EVER spent. I actually like the handle on it. Improves accuracy. You don't need a long handle because the shorter overhead stroke is so effective.


----------



## navanman

andygo said:


> Interesting thread this - especially following the comments from the navanman who lives just across the water from me....
> 
> After my woodpile broke a cheap electric splitter in just 3 hours last December  .....I did a bit more research into the best way to split logs...and eventually stumbled across this thread (and a few others) which all recommended the Fiskars SSA.
> Great, I thought, I'll rush out and buy one....only to find they don't sell them in the UK. The only place I could get one was from a mail order company which imported it from Germany.....the cost (including delivery).....67 pounds...which is roughly $107. :jawdrop:
> 
> I didn't think US stores would ship to the UK.
> 
> Don't get me wrong I like the axe and it splits as well as everyone says....but I'd be interested to see how much people would pay for one.....
> 
> Andy
> 
> By the way AKKAMAAN you may want to seriously have a look at selling them over here.
> Before I bought the German one I emailed Fiskars in Finland to ask where I could buy one in the UK.
> They passed me on to FISKARS UK - which ironically is just 20 miles down the road from me....they sell virtually every other piece of Fiskars kit over here....except the axes....when I asked why, they said there was no demand.....maybe your youtube stats could prove otherwise....



I got my Fiskars S.S Axe along with the sport axe and the sharpener for $73 and paid $56 shipping, the post office did not charge duty as they had no idea what to charge! So all in all it worked out quite well. I must say the little sport axe makes short work of the limbing of 1" branches from cut wood. It is very sharp.
So give the mail order a go and make sure you get the bits and bobs that make the shipping cost worth it. :greenchainsaw:


----------



## stu3k

I got mines for Baileys in the USA , damn post office(parcelforce) charged me vat of £11.20 and hit me with a fee for collecting that of £8, i refused to pay that (as was my right) fee.
So the refused to give me my parcel even when i had paid the VAT the cannot withold a parcel for their Admin Fee
Well long and short of it i got £50 compensation from MD's office of parcelforce,
So my 7854 cost me £11.20 all the way from Good Old USA
Best Axe EVER


----------



## bsearcey

Rudedog said:


> EVERYthing he said. Best $40 bucks plus shipping I have EVER spent. I actually like the handle on it. Improves accuracy. You don't need a long handle because the shorter overhead stroke is so effective.



It's definitely all about the technique. You reminded me of when I was researching about the SSA I watched some vids on YouTube (AKKAMAN's sold me on it, great videos!) there was another one with a lady I think somewhere up in Canada using a super chopper. I'm not sure what she was splitting, but it seemed pretty straight grained, but frozen solid from the screeching. What was so funny to me was she would wind up like to hit a baseball, but never brought the axe from behind her back over her head. She would not be able to split the round on the first hit sometimes, and would break out a small sledge to get it through. I kept thinking if she would swing properly she would get better power. Anyway she looked like she was enjoying herself so I didn't bother commenting. Here's the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qgb13E3b5Iw


----------



## Dakotas Dad

bsearcey said:


> It's definitely all about the technique. You reminded me of when I was researching about the SSA I watched some vids on YouTube (AKKAMAN's sold me on it, great videos!) there was another one with a lady I think somewhere up in Canada using a super chopper. I'm not sure what she was splitting, but it seemed pretty straight grained, but frozen solid from the screeching. What was so funny to me was she would wind up like to hit a baseball, but never brought the axe from behind her back over her head. She would not be able to split the round on the first hit sometimes, and would break out a small sledge to get it through. I kept thinking if she would swing properly she would get better power. Anyway she looked like she was enjoying herself so I didn't bother commenting. Here's the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qgb13E3b5Iw



She's some kind of hippy/zen mastereress or something, read the full description of the video.. "the sound of one axe splitting.." lol.

She's probably got a gov't grant too...

http://www.storyshards.info/blog/?page_id=4

But, while I don't like her technique.. she does use a fiskars splitting axe.. so she's alright by me.


----------



## huskystihl

keith811 said:


> splitting axes are great. mine is called the chopper. as for the people having probs with hitting themselves with them you may have to adjust your style to account for the shorter handle. or from the sounds of some of the post just learn how to split would in the first place.



I have to agree with you there. I dont think this thing is any more dangerous that any ax out there. From the sounds of it this thing should come with a release.


----------



## bsearcey

Dakotas Dad said:


> She's some kind of hippy/zen mastereress or something, read the full description of the video.. "the sound of one axe splitting.." lol.
> 
> She's probably got a gov't grant too...
> 
> http://www.storyshards.info/blog/?page_id=4
> 
> But, while I don't like her technique.. she does use a fiskars splitting axe.. so she's alright by me.



Yeah....I didn't want to get into the whole buddhist (or whatever) nature of the video. I call it getting into the zone. But that doesn't sound as enlightened I guess.


----------



## banshee67

just got mine in the mail from ace hardware in brooklyn, although i only live about 50 miles from there, that was still some fast (and free) shipping!
shes sittin in my garage right now, all shiny, with her holster on.. gona give her a workout tomorrow!


----------



## stihlcountry

I have a 14in. Fiskars Hachet that I take with me on wood cutting days and it,s come in handy a million times. It,s truely a tough little axe. Their products are super high quality. :greenchainsaw:


----------



## Rudedog

banshee67 said:


> just got mine in the mail from ace hardware in brooklyn, although i only live about 50 miles from there, that was still some fast (and free) shipping!
> shes sittin in my garage right now, all shiny, with her holster on.. gona give her a workout tomorrow!



I do like the hard plastic holder that comes with the splitter. Simple, cheap but keeps the edge from getting bashed up in the truck.


----------



## electric saws

*thanks*



AKKAMAAN said:


> I wish I had done it here....I have probobly "sold" hundreds just here at this forum....hahahaha....
> GO FOR IT!!
> We will all help you out with promotions and "ads"......hahahaha
> 
> Happy St.Patricks day to you, little late but maybe you celebrate all week long....LOL....



this really beats the 'split inside a car tire' technique & the speed of the FSS is making me rethink a 21ton splitter rental. The 4.25lb head might be a nice alternative to the 8lb maul.
Regarding the bungee - how much wear over how long a period? Do I need something (like old garden hose) around the stretchy band to protect it?


----------



## Dakotas Dad

I have been unable to master the bungee cord technique. As in, I ran out of bungee cords before I got good enough to not slice them with regularity. 

But.. I think if using the bungee cords for several rounds in a row, my splitting speed would increase to the point that I might have a heart attack just trying to keep up with the SS.. 

and, well, that just wouldn't do.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

electric saws said:


> this really beats the 'split inside a car tire' technique & the speed of the FSS is making me rethink a 21ton splitter rental. The 4.25lb head might be a nice alternative to the 8lb maul.
> Regarding the bungee - how much wear over how long a period? Do I need something (like old garden hose) around the stretchy band to protect it?



I use what ever I have available....I could rip and wrap an old t-shirt around a bundle of logs, or some old dirty ropes or even a chain with short bungee at the ends...I haven't "invented" anything, just initialized an idea, that hopefully is subject for improvement....
If you don't feel comfortable tearing up a lot of bungees, use something "useless".....Why not stretch wrap.....after splitting they are ready to being carried to the pile, and later on, into your house.......


----------



## electric saws

*can it handle a Y*

I'm impressed with your video splitting straight grained rounds with the FSA. Can it handle a Y shaped piece? With my 8lb maul & wedge it usually takes several attempts to get started, then it succumbs, as in the attached pic.


----------



## just a dave

you could hollow that thing out, put some strings on it and play us a tune!!


----------



## AKKAMAAN

electric saws said:


> I'm impressed with your video splitting straight grained rounds with the FSA. Can it handle a Y shaped piece? With my 8lb maul & wedge it usually takes several attempts to get started, then it succumbs, as in the attached pic.



I have never tried any of that stuff....I get my fir rounds from the sawmill....company I work for haul their lumber...I have "unlimited" access to free fire wood....lol

I donät think it is a relevant question, be ause if you have one of those Y's, once in a while.....who cares....chain saw works for me....

The main KEY with the FSS, is that it have to be RAZOR SHARP! Then it splits the wood fiber apart, and not pushing the fiber in front of the edge, like these 8# mauls....
:notrolls2:


----------



## bsearcey

electric saws said:


> I'm impressed with your video splitting straight grained rounds with the FSA. Can it handle a Y shaped piece? With my 8lb maul & wedge it usually takes several attempts to get started, then it succumbs, as in the attached pic.



I can bust through red oak crotches like you have with my FSS. It's all in where you begin to split. Notice the grain in the crotch it is arched (one of the strongest shapes in building). If you hit it from the top of the apex it won't split, but if you hit it at the bottom of the arch perpendicular to the center line it will split. Usually pretty easily. Then you just work around it like you show in the pic following the curved grain. I will admit that I've been splitting a bunch of hackberry and this method does not work very good on those crotches. Red oak it will do just fine.


----------



## s37d

I got one of these axes and used it today, worked good. I was surprised how easily it can be pulled out of the log after it gets stuck. It really shined in splitting the small diameter(< 5") pieces, since it's so light you can aim it more precisely and it doesn't take much swing speed to split them. I typically split my pieces pretty big for my wood stove and the red oak I had was on average 12" diameter so for the most part it was just splitting the log in half and that's it, no need for bungy cord or tire. It did really well on the larger diameter pieces too, split em with ease...can't imagine how easy some cherry would be where the grain is straight. 

I was being super cautious after reading about some of the close calls people had. The axe is very sharp and since the handle is so short and it goes through most pieces with such ease, I can definitely see how it could come right down to your feet and do some damage. It seemed safer using no splitting block at all, since then the axe goes right down into the ground instead of potentially at your feet. The way I see it is, if you play it safe - feet spread apart, focused swing, some protective wear - then you'll be just fine aside from some kind of freak accident.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

s37d said:


> I got one of these axes and used it today, worked good. I was surprised how easily it can be pulled out of the log after it gets stuck. It really shined in splitting the small diameter(< 5") pieces, since it's so light you can aim it more precisely and it doesn't take much swing speed to split them. I typically split my pieces pretty big for my wood stove and the red oak I had was on average 12" diameter so for the most part it was just splitting the log in half and that's it, no need for bungy cord or tire. It did really well on the larger diameter pieces too, split em with ease...can't imagine how easy some cherry would be where the grain is straight.
> 
> I was being super cautious after reading about some of the close calls people had. The axe is very sharp and since the handle is so short and it goes through most pieces with such ease, I can definitely see how it could come right down to your feet and do some damage. It seemed safer using no splitting block at all, since then the axe goes right down into the ground instead of potentially at your feet. The way I see it is, if you play it safe - feet spread apart, focused swing, some protective wear - then you'll be just fine aside from some kind of freak accident.


The problem with smaller logs is that the "miss hit" ratio is higher, with potential accidents possible....so if you bundle smaller logs together, with a rope, bungee or whatever.....you can split smaller ones both faster and safer.....
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----------



## s37d

Yeah clustering small ones together sounds like a good method. What kind of wood is that you're splitting in the vid, and is it straight grained? I couldn't get my red oak to split that easy, not for at least half the pieces. The grain was too curvy.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

s37d said:


> Yeah clustering small ones together sounds like a good method. What kind of wood is that you're splitting in the vid, and is it straight grained? I couldn't get my red oak to split that easy, not for at least half the pieces. The grain was too curvy.



It is 3-4" diameter branches from Douglas fir.....pretty straight grained stuff....bundle small ones really improve safety, and some of them barely, or can not, stand up alone....


----------



## link523

they work great but be carefull. had mine kick out the side cut boot sock and foot:censored: then the trip to the er


----------



## azoic

*Fiskars will add length.*

I can't find the SSA 28" 4.25# in a retail store - box box, chain hardware, anywhere. A call to Fiskars confirmed I'll have to buy on-line. The best deal seems to be Amazon.com.

During the call I asked about a longer handle. They indicated it's not in the 2011 catalog but may be offered later in 2011. Too bad I can't wait that long.

Len R.
«»«»«»«»«»«»«»«»«»«»«»«»«»
John Deere 30 (Kioritz) 14"
Old, small, cantankerous: cuts 
rounds if you go round & round.
That's the saw, not me.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

> I can't find the SSA 28" 4.25# in a retail store - box box, chain hardware, anywhere. A call to Fiskars confirmed I'll have to buy on-line. The best deal seems to be Amazon.com


.

My local Ace Hardware have 6 Fiskars Super Splitter #7854 in stock just now....they sold out 2 weeks ago, but got new stock a few days later....


----------



## azoic

*Not Around Here*

Each local store has it's own ordering/stocking policy.
To buy local retail, I'd have to move!


----------



## Nikko

I was eyeballing one of the splitting axes a while back, but the short handle put me off. Wonder if they'll come out with a reg. handle version?


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Nikko said:


> I was eyeballing one of the splitting axes a while back, but the short handle put me off. Wonder if they'll come out with a reg. handle version?



look up the thread of the Fiskars sup0er sp0litter review....go and give it a try....its amazing....


----------



## southbound

Sears seems to keep them on the shelf....


----------



## Dalmatian90

Sears doesn't sell the super splitting axe. Just the smaller pro splitting axe.


----------



## southbound

Ok ..I thought I saw it there??


----------



## Dakotas Dad

At my local sears, they have the Pro, but not the SS.


----------



## Blowncrewcab

Dakotas Dad said:


> At my local sears, they have the Pro, but not the SS.



Ditto!!!!!


----------



## Rudedog

Dakotas Dad said:


> At my local sears, they have the Pro, but not the SS.



They always have it available online. That is where I got one of the two I have.


----------



## Dalmatian90

> They always have it available online. That is where I got one of the two I have.



Took me three tries, but I was able to find it searching on "Fiskars Axe" with the e:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...rd=fiskars+axe&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1


----------



## bigair

Just got a super splitter. Don't believe the hype. Yes it splits, but I can do more with my 8lb maul. The short handle renders it almost useless to me. Not enough weight on the head, I could go on and on. Maybe easily split wood such as maple might be its specialty. It sure isn't the oak I have right now. I think I will send it back.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

bigair said:


> Just got a super splitter. Don't believe the hype. Yes it splits, but I can do more with my 8lb maul. The short handle renders it almost useless to me. Not enough weight on the head, I could go on and on. Maybe easily split wood such as maple might be its specialty. It sure isn't the oak I have right now. I think I will send it back.


I takes a total different swing attitude...the big arc "golf swing" do not work....there is a lot of post about the swing technique on this thread...and they are all pointing the same way....

If you don't want to use your hand wrists, I really think you should turn it back if you don't like it....YOU would probably do better with a 8-12# std maul....


----------



## hamweena

I love mine I also have a small fiskars hatchet for kindling.


----------



## howellhandmade

bigair said:


> Just got a super splitter. Don't believe the hype. Yes it splits, but I can do more with my 8lb maul. The short handle renders it almost useless to me. Not enough weight on the head, I could go on and on. Maybe easily split wood such as maple might be its specialty. It sure isn't the oak I have right now. I think I will send it back.



It's not hype, just normal statistical variation at work. We all want to believe that our own experience is universal, that what is true for us, individually, is true for everyone, everywhere. But it's not. Some guys swear by the monster maul; I think they're a total waste of energy and gave mine away. A lot of us here have tried the Fiskars SS and love it. A few don't get on with it, that's just the way it is. I split oak, cherry, and locust, and haven't used my standard maul in months. You have to use the whip in your wrists to snap the head around, and you have to swing through the round. Without that extra speed the SS won't be all that impressive. It will split, but it won't outperform heavier mauls like it can when properly wielded. I've split several cords with the Fiskars since I got it, and, for me, it's all that and a bag of chips. YMMV.

Jack


----------



## wooddog 066

*fiskars axe*

I wonder what i axe i should get i am 6'-6" tall and i have used the chopper1 and it does a nice job do ya think the fiskars is too short for me?


----------



## Butch(OH)

Every time this ole thread bounces back up to the top it amazes me. I see that it now is the #2 non sticky thread on the forum for total views, do I get a prize for starting it??
Actualy AKKAMAAN gets the credit for the poplarity of the Fiskars SS axe on here I think. I still swing the old 8lb maul now and then to remind me how good I have it with the Fiskars SS.


----------



## howellhandmade

wooddog 066 said:


> I wonder what i axe i should get i am 6'-6" tall and i have used the chopper1 and it does a nice job do ya think the fiskars is too short for me?



No, it's not too short for you, if you swing it right. The SS is a whole design, not just a wedge on a stick. If it were longer it wouldn't cock your wrists as deeply or snap as quickly on the release. If you set that lag in your wrists and don't release it until your hands are below waist height, it doesn't matter how tall you are. I'd use a block, too, just for insurance.

Jack


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Butch(OH) said:


> Every time this ole thread bounces back up to the top it amazes me. I see that it now is the #2 non sticky thread on the forum for total views, do I get a prize for starting it??
> Actualy AKKAMAAN gets the credit for the poplarity of the Fiskars SS axe on here I think. I still swing the old 8lb maul now and then to remind me how good I have it with the Fiskars SS.



Thank you Butch (OH)!
It is flattering to get credit for such an awesome tools popularity. But I think we have to give The *Fiskars Super Splitter Axe* itself, the credit, together with YOU, *Butch (OH)*, for starting this awesome thread. 
This thread is impressively BIG and is almost hard to search for posts... LOL

I also have to give credit to all the posters that keep improving their advices, about use this tool, to get maximum performance out of it.

There are so many of them, so I am not going to mention any names, but still...I take my hat off for you guys.......

I will celebrate extra when this thread officially get "Sticky"......


----------



## clydegrassvalle

*What is the best wood splitting maul/axe?*

I am new at this, wood splitting. I plan on getting a wood stove this summer and I am looking
for a good splitting maul or axe. If I could get some suggestions on what is the best splitting axe and the best splitting maul it would be great. Thanks. :greenchainsaw:


----------



## Philbert

clydegrassvalle said:


> I am new at this, wood splitting. I plan on getting a wood stove this summer and I am looking
> for a good splitting maul or axe. If I could get some suggestions on what is the best splitting axe and the best splitting maul it would be great. Thanks. :greenchainsaw:



Welcome to A.S.!

You might have noticed that personal preference plays a role. You might also want to have a variety of tools for different situations. I don't have a powered splitter, and I split wood much smaller for my small fireplace insert than some guys with the big outdoor wood burners (OWB).

I use a sledge hammer and steel wedges for large and gnarley stuff, the Fiskars super splitter for mid-sized stuff, and the Fiskars axe for smaller stuff.

I have a few other things (regular axe, monster maul, etc. hanging around that I accumulated over the years, but the above is what I use the most.

Philbert


----------



## Josh777

I still can't quite throw out my maul. The super splitter is definitely nice though.


----------



## southbound

I still prefer the Helko Vario 2000 Heavy Splitting Axe - 2300G...

Apparently others do to seeing how they are sold out till Dec....


----------



## howellhandmade

southbound said:


> I still prefer the Helko Vario 2000 Heavy Splitting Axe - 2300G...
> 
> Apparently others do to seeing how they are sold out till Dec....



I still have a like new Helko Tomahawk (2300g, same as Vario except composition handle) that I'd be glad to trade for a Fiskars SS (quite a bit cheaper than the Helko new) in similar condition. 

Jack


----------



## Dakotas Dad

clydegrassvalle said:


> I am new at this, wood splitting. I plan on getting a wood stove this summer and I am looking
> for a good splitting maul or axe. *If I could get some suggestions on what is the best splitting axe* and the best splitting maul it would be great. Thanks. :greenchainsaw:



Don't take this wrong.. but if 350+ posts about 1 particular tool doesn't give you a suggestion...lol


----------



## couch

Where is the splitter made? I have a Fiskars shovel and it's made in China. I thought Fiskars was a Scandanavian company.


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## AKKAMAAN

couch said:


> Where is the splitter made? I have a Fiskars shovel and it's made in China. I thought Fiskars was a Scandanavian company.



Fiskars is indeed a Scandinavian company, actually Finnish. But like every other company, they have outsourced some production to China. 
I do strongly doubt, this FSS axe is manufactured in China, due to the depency on the high quality steel it needs.....but who knows....it should say on the packaging.....


----------



## corrupt

Brought one today $108au well worth the $$.
I have a bunch of rounds that are an inch or 2 to big to get through the door, took the side off each with ease.
I find u can put more effort into where u want to hit rather than just going for the all out wind up swing u end up doing with a maul.
Had a go at a couple of "Y" sections, 3 wacks right in the top and all done

mine says "Made in Finland" on the pack.


----------



## RVALUE

My Fiskars from Baileys arrives today. We shall soon see how they perform.

(got two )


----------



## AKKAMAAN

corrupt said:


> mine says "Made in Finland" on the pack.



Thanks for verifying that!
Best of luck with your new tools!


----------



## notsukutsu

Hi,

Just wanna say how glad I am for choosing this, somewhat more expensive option at the hardware store over some generic old-fashioned axes. Indeed it's like this thing contains magic dust that makes splitting logs a breeze. 

Some observations: There are many people longing for a slightly longer handle, while many people also seem to use it to break rounds on the ground, without using a block. Perhaps there's a correlation. As my old folks taught me, firewood needs to be chopped on a block, otherwise the blade will hit the dirt (or in worse case your foot) and dull. Breaking really huge rounds that are difficult to even lift and place on a block could be easier to break on the ground with a longer-handled axe that's designed for breaking huge rounds on the ground, but that's not really what this tool is about. 

Realistically, this axe is designed to split normal sized, 10-20" diameter firewood on a chopping block. For that purpose it's excellent, and I honestly hadn't ever missed a longer handle (I'm 6'2"). Indeed it looks like there'd be a market for Fiskars to sell an even longer and heavier axe for breaking the really big piece of wood without using a block, but that's just not precisely what this product is designed for. If it was longer and heavier, then splitting smaller firewood wouldn't be as effortless. There are always tradeoffs.


----------



## WVMtneer

I have split 2 cords this summer with the fiskar splitting axe. I have been splitting firewood with maul for 20+ years, and i will never pick up a maul again. I have not even been using my 27 ton splitter.

I am very impressed with this tool, I actually look forward to splitting wood with it.

-Keith


----------



## Skier76

My wife bought me one for my birthday back in December. I had a chance to use it a few times over the winter, but not much. This summer, I've been using it a lot. 

I really like this splitter. I was concerned with the handle length, but that hasn't been an issue at all. I find that splitter goes where you point it; less defelcting than a traditional maul. The light weight is awesome, it makes splitting a lot less tiring. I've been able to blast through some pretty knotty pine with this thing.


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## ShaneMc610

This is a pretty amazing splitter. Ive been using an 8 pound maul for a while and it doesnt compare to the SS. I have about 25 or so rounds of white oak (24"-26" diameter) and the Fiskars goes through most of relatively easy.


----------



## RedShift42

Amazon has had it for a heckuva price for over a week now, in case anyone's still shopping.

-Eric.


----------



## PURPLEBOWYER

Hi everyone!A most excellant site!Just ordered the FSS on ebay,31$ + 10$ shipping,can hardly wait I have a pile of cherry and locust waiting for this badboy.Unfortunately I have a large pile of elm too,Ive pulled more than a few muscles trying to get it split with an 8#er and wedges,that stuff really sucks no matter what you usecensored:Any way thanks for all the info and Ill let you know how it goes.Thanks guys....Jim


----------



## Brushwacker

PURPLEBOWYER said:


> Hi everyone!A most excellant site!Just ordered the FSS on ebay,31$ + 10$ shipping,can hardly wait I have a pile of cherry and locust waiting for this badboy.Unfortunately I have a large pile of elm too,Ive pulled more than a few muscles trying to get it split with an 8#er and wedges,that stuff really sucks no matter what you usecensored:Any way thanks for all the info and Ill let you know how it goes.Thanks guys....Jim



If your pile of wood has been sitting a fairly long while, the Fiskars isn't as effective as a big heavy 10-12lb maul such as the monster maul. Cherry and elm get real sticky when seasoned a while before splitting. I'm not sure how the locust will be. Problem with the monster maul is if you use it extensively as I have it wears on the joints and bones the same. Now a days I use the MM sparingly. The Fiskers shines in fresh cut or frozen wood thats not extremely knotty. It has a very high power to weight ratio and is the most shock freindly to the body I have ever used in average fresh cut wood but the sticky stuff it doesn't work miricles. 
I've been working on some mostly cherry wood I dumped on the ground in the spring. Just stacking the not so big pieces, splitting some of the staighter grained pieces in halves or quarters and leaving the tougher ones to noodle with the chainsaw. I sell wood and if I need to split it smaller with the Fiskers I aim to do it after it freezes. Cherry cracks and drys good for me in log form when stacked in an open airy area. It also smells delicious when split after its seasoned a while.


----------



## PURPLEBOWYER

Greetings Brushwacker,the elm that Im refering to is about 2yrs old Ive got it bucked and stacked so its well seassoned,and Im like you I know that axe isnt gonna perform miracles,but most everything else is locust and cherry with the cherry being the only green I cut.Ive been picking the locust off the ground trying to clean up my woods a little.From what Im reading it does well on cherry.


----------



## Brushwacker

PURPLEBOWYER said:


> Greetings Brushwacker,the elm that Im refering to is about 2yrs old Ive got it bucked and stacked so its well seassoned,and Im like you I know that axe isnt gonna perform miracles,but most everything else is locust and cherry with the cherry being the only green I cut.Ive been picking the locust off the ground trying to clean up my woods a little.From what Im reading it does well on cherry.



If you cut the cherry recently and its not extremely knotty it will work great. I've split fresh cut black locust both dead and alive and it should split as well IMO. I haven't split a lot of elm but i had some old blocks given to me and they were very tough. 
To compensate for the short handle on the Fiskars , keep your legs farther apart ( swinging it in front of you ). It also puts your foot and toes in a safer location. If you swing from the side might best use a chopping block. 
I have had the Fiskars bounce off knotty wood coming back almost hitting my fore head also , so be careful.
Later, John


----------



## Northland

ShaneMC & others-how long are you bucking those large diameter oak and other hardwood rounds to? 12 to 15"?

I've made good use of my FSS the past year. This summer I skidded out some 22" diameter maple and bucked them to 20" or so in length to fit my new Vermont Hearthstone wood stove. 

The problem is I can no longer split the rounds and I figure it is because they are too long. 

I am going to have to rent or buy a woodsplitter if I can't split the larger diameter maple with the FSS.

Any advice would be much appreciated


----------



## amateur cutter

Noodle it 2/3 to 3/4 of the way through with your saw , then split. Helps on Elm too, but the stuff is still a :censored:. A C


----------



## CountryBoy19

Northland said:


> ShaneMC & others-how long are you bucking those large diameter oak and other hardwood rounds to? 12 to 15"?
> 
> I've made good use of my FSS the past year. This summer I skidded out some 22" diameter maple and bucked them to 20" or so in length to fit my new Vermont Hearthstone wood stove.
> 
> The problem is I can no longer split the rounds and I figure it is because they are too long.
> 
> I am going to have to rent or buy a woodsplitter if I can't split the larger diameter maple with the FSS.
> 
> Any advice would be much appreciated



I just got done splitting a cord of 20" sugar maple Friday. It was the easiest wood I've ever split. I guess maybe it depends on the location etc. I'm sure bucking it longer contributes a lot to being harder to split.


----------



## Northland

CountryBoy19 said:


> I just got done splitting a cord of 20" sugar maple Friday. It was the easiest wood I've ever split. I guess maybe it depends on the location etc. I'm sure bucking it longer contributes a lot to being harder to split.



Were your sugar maple rounds 20" in diameter and also 20" long? Unless they are frozen solid you can't split sugar or red maple that size that grow here with any axe. 

White and Silver Birch that size can be split but not maple.


----------



## Northland

amateur cutter said:


> Noodle it 2/3 to 3/4 of the way through with your saw , then split. Helps on Elm too, but the stuff is still a :censored:. A C



Thanks for the suggestion but I way too many big maples of that size to make that a practical exercise. It would take me days to cut all the rounds like that.


----------



## WetBehindtheEar

*Question...*

So many people here are raving about the SS...

There are always compromises in life. You want a strong sword but don't want it to be brittle... so you have difficulty holding an edge... You want a sharp edge but once you get an edge on, it tends to be very brittle and chip off - making it hard to hone the edge back. 

Are the SS hardened steel? Are they similar to saw chains that need a 'touch up' every so often?

Thanks for any advice.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

WetBehindtheEar said:


> So many people here are raving about the SS...
> 
> There are always compromises in life. You want a strong sword but don't want it to be brittle... so you have difficulty holding an edge... You want a sharp edge but once you get an edge on, it tends to be very brittle and chip off - making it hard to hone the edge back.
> 
> Are the SS hardened steel? Are they similar to saw chains that need a 'touch up' every so often?
> 
> Thanks for any advice.



I use a file on my Fiskars SS....steel is forged, but I do not think it is hardened.....my axe have got dull, but never lost a chip out of the edge


----------



## Brushwacker

WetBehindtheEar said:


> So many people here are raving about the SS...
> 
> There are always compromises in life. You want a strong sword but don't want it to be brittle... so you have difficulty holding an edge... You want a sharp edge but once you get an edge on, it tends to be very brittle and chip off - making it hard to hone the edge back.
> 
> Are the SS hardened steel? Are they similar to saw chains that need a 'touch up' every so often?
> 
> Thanks for any advice.



Last year was my first full year with the Fiskars and I didn't really split a lot of wood. I had stockpile from the previous year and sold a lot unsplit. If i remember right I touched mine up once with the Fiskars sharpener that cost about $10 and it is due more for a touch up then the first time now. Its hard to say just how much I split, maybe about 5 cords which usually is split kind of small on the average. I don't recollect having a chip in it yet but to me it looks like fairly hard steel. I do split mostly on the ground, often frozen so the edge isn't kept out of the dirt to well.

Originally Posted by Northland 
ShaneMC & others-how long are you bucking those large diameter oak and other hardwood rounds to? 12 to 15"?

I've made good use of my FSS the past year. This summer I skidded out some 22" diameter maple and bucked them to 20" or so in length to fit my new Vermont Hearthstone wood stove. 

The problem is I can no longer split the rounds and I figure it is because they are too long. 

I am going to have to rent or buy a woodsplitter if I can't split the larger diameter maple with the FSS.

Any advice would be much appreciated
I know you said it take days to noodle yours, but wouldn't the time and effort getting them on the splitter cost you close to the same. 
I use an ms660 with a sharp chain mostly in the bigger rounds and it doesn't seem to be excessively time consuming. I cut a few soft maple blocks with an 041 the other day it it went fairly quick. Its flat ground mostly here and I prefer sizing the blocks down to size where the tree falls usually, then its easiar to toss the pieces on the truck. Often 1 cut in half through the worst part of the firewood log and the rest splits up easy enough with axe or maul.


----------



## WetBehindtheEar

Thanks for the info on sharpening the Super Split. 

I don't own a slpitter & use the Ames splitting axe or 'sledge & wedge'. Maybe I'll drop the $40-odd dollars on one. 

One problem is that there used to be a Fiskars office in Central WI (Wausau area) but it's since closed & the rumor is they've shifted manufacturing to China. 

Can anyone confirm this?
Tony


----------



## CountryBoy19

Northland said:


> Were your sugar maple rounds 20" in diameter and also 20" long? Unless they are frozen solid you can't split sugar or red maple that size that grow here with any axe.
> 
> White and Silver Birch that size can be split but not maple.


Well, no, the biggest one was right at 19" around, and 20" long. It took a few good whacks to get it started but once it was started 1 or 2 hits and I could split a good chunk off.




WetBehindtheEar said:


> So many people here are raving about the SS...
> 
> There are always compromises in life. You want a strong sword but don't want it to be brittle... so you have difficulty holding an edge... You want a sharp edge but once you get an edge on, it tends to be very brittle and chip off - making it hard to hone the edge back.
> 
> Are the SS hardened steel? Are they similar to saw chains that need a 'touch up' every so often?
> 
> Thanks for any advice.


If they aren't hardened then they're made of some pretty darn good steel. I use mine to pound wedges when I have a big tough piece or a round that is just too big to go at with the SS and there isn't a single mark or ding on the butt where I've been pounding. The wedges on the other hand are all dinged up and smashed on the tops. I would say that the head on the SS is certainly hardened pretty good.

I also can't remember the last time I touched the edge up; it's seen quite a bit of dirt and dings and it will still chop stringy stuff with a slight tap. It holds it's edge very well (like all the fiskars axes).



WetBehindtheEar said:


> the rumor is they've shifted manufacturing to China.
> 
> Can anyone confirm this?
> Tony



I know that they have certainly moved some manufacturing to China as I have some Fiskars tools clearly marked "Made in China". But IIRC they still make the axes in Finland don't they?


----------



## Northland

Brushwacker said:


> I know you said it take days to noodle yours, but wouldn't the time and effort getting them on the splitter cost you close to the same.
> I use an ms660 with a sharp chain mostly in the bigger rounds and it doesn't seem to be excessively time consuming. I cut a few soft maple blocks with an 041 the other day it it went fairly quick. Its flat ground mostly here and I prefer sizing the blocks down to size where the tree falls usually, then its easiar to toss the pieces on the truck. Often 1 cut in half through the worst part of the firewood log and the rest splits up easy enough with axe or maul.



I have cut down fifteen 50+' maples that were dead and dry while standing. Half of them are 22"+ in diameter at the trunk. That's a lot of rounds to be noodling for me. A neighbor has horizontal/vertical splitter he will rent me cheaply. Moving those big rounds in place with a pry bar or my tractor shouldn't be a big deal. 

However, first I am going to buck a few of my existing rounds down in size by half. Then I will be able to split them easy. I split all my firewood to the size of the wood in Akkaman's video

Still, if I want to make best use of the Hearthstone's 22" log length capacity I need my firewood at least 20" long. That and my wood shed will hold many more cords of wood since I will have less rows with the longer wood. 

I live in the mountains and use my tractor's bucket grapple to take the logs in 6' to 8' lenghts down the hills to my staging area in front of my wood shed. I then buck, split and stack the wood.View attachment 147509


----------



## PURPLEBOWYER

Well I picked up my ss on Fri.I must say it worked really well on the nice straight grained cherry and locust,but bounced right off that miserable elm.No fault of the axe,that stuff just flat out sucks to split,well itll get burnt one way or the other.Very nice axe,well worth the $.


----------



## TreePointer

I find that the Fiskars works much better after a couple shots of Finnish vodka.


----------



## Haywire Haywood

TreePointer said:


> I find that the Fiskars works much better after a couple shots of Finnish vodka.



I just looked at mine and don't see a place for the vodka. I call BS. 

Ian


----------



## CountryBoy19

Haywire Haywood said:


> I just looked at mine and don't see a place for the vodka. I call BS.
> 
> Ian



I was wondering the same thing... Am I supposed to tip it up and pour it down the handle or just give a full massage using the vodka as massage oil?


----------



## PURPLEBOWYER

Well Ill just have to modify this baby!:


----------



## PURPLEBOWYER

Hey, thats it just cork that handle.


----------



## Taxmantoo

Amazon now wants $33.50 with free shipping. Is that a bargain price, or did they move production to China and reduce the price?

http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-7854-Splitting-28-Inch-4-Pound/dp/B00004SD7B


----------



## Streblerm

Fiskars is a global company. I see many of their products that are made in China(scissors, pruners, etc) , but many of them are made other places. I don't know for sure, but I suspect the low price on Amazon is just a sale, not a sign that production has moved further east.


----------



## SawTroll

PURPLEBOWYER said:


> Hey, thats it just cork that handle.




That's the clue! :agree2:


----------



## AKKAMAAN

taxmantoo said:


> Amazon now wants $33.50 with free shipping. Is that a bargain price, or did they move production to China and reduce the price?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-7854-Splitting-28-Inch-4-Pound/dp/B00004SD7B



6 months ago it said MADE IN FINLAND on the Axe, I am surprised if that have changed....they need the SWEDISH steel in it...


----------



## CountryBoy19

AKKAMAAN said:


> 6 months ago it said MADE IN FINLAND on the Axe, I am surprised if that have changed....they need the SWEDISH steel in it...



+1 I Bought one from Amazon about 6 months ago (at the older price) and it says Finland on it. Does anybody have one at the new price to look?


----------



## RedShift42

FWIW, I ordered mine from Amazon like a month ago, the day the price dropped (figuring it would go back up immediately) and mine is marked Finland. 
It would have been returned if Chinese-made.

-Eric.


----------



## Dakotas Dad

I almost have my brother hypnotized, so I should be able to check with him in a few days, and see where his was made..


----------



## QuickDraw

I bought a Super Splittin axe from Amazon a few weeks ago for $33, and it is stamped made in Finland. I also have the pro splittin axe from Fiskars, and have been using that for some time now, but the heavier super splitter certainly has it's place for me depending what kind of wood I am cuttin through.


----------



## SawTroll

The cost is much higher here, but it is the best splitting axe I ever used!


----------



## Mechanic

*Fiskars 7854*

I just ordered my Fiskars 7854 from Amazon .com for $39.95, free delivery and no sales tax. Now if it just lives up to its reputation, I can finally retire my Monster Maul. Or at least, give it, and me, a break!!


----------



## chad3

I've found the two are complimentary instead of stand alone. Mega is great for those huge splits. I've bounced the super splitter off a few rounds. Let the mega hit those. Just my take. 
Chad


----------



## Brushwacker

The big monster-mega mauls will split the tough stuff better but they are hazardous to your bone and joint health if you use them to much.
Fiskars has about the best power to weight ratio as far as I can tell and is gentle on the bones and joints. I like having a monster maul around for splitting through tough wood I don't want to slice up with my chainsaw usually cause of foreign matter that is hard on the chain.


----------



## Mechanic

I've been using the MM exclusively for almost 30 years. I have one of the original orange ones made by a company in Cleveland, and it has never let me down. But Bushwaker is right, it does take its toll, especially now that I'm officially a senior citizen!!
The MM design is great, but I've actually thought about drilling some weight out of the head. I have a second one, so if I screw it up, no big deal: I'll just loan that one out.


----------



## Mechanic

*Fiskar's Super Splitting Axe*

I just got to spend my first weekend splitting wood with my new Fiskar's Super Splitter, made in *Finland*. No chinese marking on mine!! 

First thing to remember - *Be Careful!!! *This thing is sharp. Just ask the Codura nylon on the sides of my steel toes.

Overall, I was pleased, especially with its 4-1/2# weight, compared to my old, reliable, 15# Monster Maul. The SS feels like a toy compared to the MM, but there are a couple things you need to keep in mind when using it. First, always aim for the far side of the log; that way if you do swing short, you still have wood to absorb the impact, and not your feet or legs. Second, since you don't need a round-house wind-up to use the SS, you can stand with your feet spread apart, and square to the axis of your swing. Again, lessen the chance of contact with a body part. And finally, when working on big, straight-grained logs, I've found taking slabs off the outside works better than trying to split it completely in half right away. If you want to do that, the MM works much better.

In straight grained wood like cherry, this thing is faster than my MM, and probably faster than most conventional power splitters, and the exercise isn't bad either. For $40, I would recommend adding one to your splitter collection.


----------



## AKKAMAAN

Mechanic said:


> First, always aim for the far side of the log; that way if you do swing short, you still have wood to absorb the impact, and not your feet or legs.



+1 very important comment.....I have been advocating this on my video for almost 3 years now....this can be hard to do with smaller sized logs...
<object width="640" height="505"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/WoAOYLMU1Wc?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;color1=0xcc2550&amp;color2=0xe87a9f"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/WoAOYLMU1Wc?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;color1=0xcc2550&amp;color2=0xe87a9f" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="505"></embed></object>
.... unless you use the bungee cord to bundle the small ones to the size of a big one!
<object width="640" height="505"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/MVSwICvpIVE?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;color1=0x234900&amp;color2=0x4e9e00"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/MVSwICvpIVE?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;color1=0x234900&amp;color2=0x4e9e00" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="505"></embed></object>


> Second, since you don't need a round-house wind-up to use the SS, you can stand with your feet spread apart, and square to the axis of your swing.


+1 again....very important for accuracy and safety....use short swing and a hand vrist snap....


----------



## brooksto

thanks to everyone for their glowing reviews I am the proud owner of a supersplitter  It works so much better then my old harbor freight maul. I find that if the supersplitter encounters anything it doesnt get through on the 2nd strike that a shot of wd40 helps it split through


----------



## Mechanic

I'm going to try putting an edge on my Monster Maul this weekend, and see what happens. Anything has to be better than blunt steel. I also noticed my SS has improved my swing with my MM.


----------



## sperho

The thread that won't die...

After several seasons with my 8 lb maul doing a number on my joints every year and absolutely wearing me out, I broke down and spent some coin on the Fiskar's axe. I haven't received it yet, but I'm leaving the 20 round of red oak on the ground until it gets here. I was pretty concerned about the safety aspect, but I reckon that following the tips that many have kindly provided, I should be able to manage the toe-chopping risk. That, and I'm still recovering from a minor shot to my shin from a wedge that went flying several nights ago, so accidents can happen with any splitting tool. Hopefully the SS lessens the need of needing to put the wedge into play...


----------



## howellhandmade

sperho said:


> SNIP Hopefully the SS lessens the need of needing to put the wedge into play...


 
My wedges are rusty, haven't used them since I got the Fiskars. If the Fiskars won't handle it I go right to the chain saw.


----------



## Dakotas Dad

howellhandmade said:


> My wedges are rusty, haven't used them since I got the Fiskars. If the Fiskars won't handle it I go right to the chain saw.


 
Yep, wedges and sledges are no longer in my vocabulary. In the last 4 cords I split and stacked, I took the chainsaw to about 4 rounds, oak, cherry, walnut, maple and poplar, some rounds up to 40" all cut 20"long.

and edited to add.. the Stig just like the SS, ROCKS!!!


----------



## bsearcey

sperho said:


> The thread that won't die...
> 
> After several seasons with my 8 lb maul doing a number on my joints every year and absolutely wearing me out, I broke down and spent some coin on the Fiskar's axe. I haven't received it yet, but I'm leaving the 20 round of red oak on the ground until it gets here. I was pretty concerned about the safety aspect, but I reckon that following the tips that many have kindly provided, I should be able to manage the toe-chopping risk. That, and I'm still recovering from a minor shot to my shin from a wedge that went flying several nights ago, so accidents can happen with any splitting tool. Hopefully the SS lessens the need of needing to put the wedge into play...



Definitely be careful splitting Red Oak. The FSS pops that right open. Don't swing all out at first like you would with the maul, until you get a feel for it. Aim for the back. You will be impressed.


----------



## sperho

bsearcey said:


> Definitely be careful splitting Red Oak. The FSS pops that right open. Don't swing all out at first like you would with the maul, until you get a feel for it. Aim for the back. You will be impressed.



Will do - even wet oak?? If it does, I may just send Fiskars another $40 directly just to say thanks!


----------



## bsearcey

It may take one or two whacks, but when it goes it's clean and fast. It'll make a nice popping sound. Of course if you have knots or a crotch it will be a little more difficult, but the fiskars can deal with that as well. Just have to split smarter not harder.


----------



## bluesportster02

I just ordered one today. I hope it is what every one says they are


----------



## AKKAMAAN

bluesportster02 said:


> I just ordered one today. I hope it is what every one says they are


 
How can that many go WRONG!! You do not even have to prey for that!! Of course it is that good!!
Another thing how well it can break your own prejudice if there is one....???


----------



## RedShift42

I'm seated here at my desk, avoiding any unnecessary movement.
As much as I love my FSS, my aching torso muscles will testify that this splitter meets it's match in green spruce. After 50 swipes at a 17" round I elected to move on to easier prey.
Amazing how heavy 4.5lbs can start to feel.

-Eric.


----------



## cutforfun

*x27*

Has anyone had a chance to use the new super splitter X27 with the 36 in handle, I have the standard but the wife ordered the. New one for my birthday and it is on back order


----------



## sperho

RedShift42 said:


> I'm seated here at my desk, avoiding any unnecessary movement.
> As much as I love my FSS, my aching torso muscles will testify that this splitter meets it's match in green spruce. After 50 swipes at a 17" round I elected to move on to easier prey.
> Amazing how heavy 4.5lbs can start to feel.
> 
> -Eric.


 
Beats doing crunches, though, eh? Ha...


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## sperho

Just got mine tonight. My 8# maul is getting very, very scared of going into retirement. I just exploded about six 18" oak rounds (two with crotches) in as many minutes.  Time will tell if this thing holds up for me.


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## jrr344

Broke my fiskars ss to day splitting some green hickory I had it buried and the wood didn't split so I hit the back side to use it as a wedge and the handle broke jaggedly below the head. I have emailed Fiskars to see it they will replace it.


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## AKKAMAAN

jrr344 said:


> ...I had it buried...


Thats very nice and respectful of you...RIP Fiskars SS....


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## jrr344

AKKAMAAN said:


> Thats very nice and respectful of you...RIP Fiskars SS....


 
I thought it would be fitting to have a wake also, my wife was not amused.


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## tdb

*which one*

I am considering buying a Fiskar, but not sure which one to get , I see a 27'' and a 36''.

I am 5'9'' 220 , I do like the longer handles, those that have one of each would know the best.

Thanks TEDMI.


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## jrr344

tdb said:


> I am considering buying a Fiskar, but not sure which one to get , I see a 27'' and a 36''.
> 
> I am 5'9'' 220 , I do like the longer handles, those that have one of each would know the best.
> 
> Thanks TEDMI.


 
Get the 36" through ace hardware it is free shipping to the local store and you will have it within 3 days.


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## tdb

*ok*

My wife just ordered the 36'' and 14'' fiskers axes, cant wait to get them , will post pictures.

TEDMI.


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## azoic

*7884 on its way to my place!*

I only split found wood. We recently had some fierce thunderstorms and two neighbors each lost a cherry tree. I was lucky to get some rounds.

On 5-25-2010, I mentioned (in this thread) Fiskars was coming out with a longer handle. It's a year later and I ordered the 7884 this morning from Amazon (best price anywhere). It will arrive in two days. I can hardly wait to try it out.

I was concerned about the country of origin. Fiskars' customer service assures me the 7884 ax available in the U.S. is made in Finland. Their only ax from China is the 7860, a brush ax: it looks like a cross between a machete and an over-sized linoleum knife. It's a mean looking tool for hacking trails.

I'm tired of mauls, sledges, wedges, and even my Ludell splitter with the wing/wedges. A wedge chip shot out like a bullet, hitting me in the chest - not a very nice feeling. I've broken sledges and cracked the head of the Ludell. I now believe that using a Fiskars or a Ludell splitter as a sledge to pound a wedge is an abuse of the tool: never again on a Ludell and never at all on my new Fiskars.

Len
«»«»«»«»«»«»«»«»«»«»«»«»«»«»
Stihl MS250 - just acquired
John Deere 30 - recently deceased
Fiskars 7884 - arriving soon


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## Hillocks

*Try a new technique*

I have had one of these for a couple of years and had no near misses of body parts as I use a different technique for splitting. I don't stand the log on a block - I stand it on the ground the other side of the block. I then aim to hit the block having split through the top of the log only. It's the speed that does it and you don't get stuck in the log very often, the speed just blows it apart. Best splitting axe I've ever used.


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## AKKAMAAN

Hillocks said:


> I have had one of these for a couple of years and had no near misses of body parts as I use a different technique for splitting. I don't stand the log on a block - I stand it on the ground the other side of the block. I then aim to hit the block having split through the top of the log only. It's the speed that does it and you don't get stuck in the log very often, the speed just blows it apart. Best splitting axe I've ever used.


 
Click on my utube link at my profile


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## ratso

I like to set the piece im splitting on a round.I had a alot of blow through and this helps keep an edge on the x27.I sharpen frequently and wish the steel was harder but its a cheap axe compared to a gransfor bruks.


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## Rio_Grande

Just ordered an x 27 today. Should have it by weekend. Amazon was best price I could find. Also got the sharpener. Hope it is better than my mauls. THey seem to beat the wood in half as opposed to splitting it.


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