# '92' F250 4x4; What to do?



## Sagetown (Jan 25, 2012)

Bought this truck new in 92. It has been my do everything truck, from trailering heavy equipment, hay, livestock, and firewood, and just general traveling. Being retired, I'm not too fond of the idea of buying a new truck, but this one only gets about 9-11mpg. It's a dog too when it has to haul the lightest of loads.

It's in bad need of repainting. Both electric windows are out. I've replaced the motors on both doors, but they don't last anytime. My radio speakers don't work on one side, and the Dash mounts are broken. The driver's seat is threads from wear. The tires have good tread, but they are several years old, as I haven't driven it much since the year 2002. It has close to, if not more than 100K miles on it.

Just pondering on whether to fix it up, or get a nearly new 1/2 ton truck with good towing power.


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## Sal C (Jan 25, 2012)

Its cheaper to keep it and fix it then it is to spend 30k on a nearly new F150.

Check out LMCtruck for any parts that you are unable too find. And if it has only 100k on it then its hardly broken in. But I think its a little more, if I remember the 92s still had the older odo that only went too 99,999.9 miles.

What engine does it have in it? the 250s had everything from 300i6's to 460s and 7.3s


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## Sagetown (Jan 25, 2012)

The engine is the 5.8L EFi. That is like a 351 CID V-8 I guess. It sounds like one of the lifters is sticking on the passenger side of the engine. Other than that she runs good. Has some indication of fluid leakage underneath between engine & transmission, but no dripping on the ground.


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## Sagetown (Jan 25, 2012)

Here is a pic of it taken back in June 2011.


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## treemandan (Jan 26, 2012)

Sagetown said:


> Bought this truck new in 92. It has been my do everything truck, from trailering heavy equipment, hay, livestock, and firewood, and just general traveling. Being retired, I'm not too fond of the idea of buying a new truck, but this one only gets about 9-11mpg. It's a dog too when it has to haul the lightest of loads.
> 
> It's in bad need of repainting. Both electric windows are out. I've replaced the motors on both doors, but they don't last anytime. My radio speakers don't work on one side, and the Dash mounts are broken. The driver's seat is threads from wear. The tires have good tread, but they are several years old, as I haven't driven it much since the year 2002. It has close to, if not more than 100K miles on it.
> 
> Just pondering on whether to fix it up, or get a nearly new 1/2 ton truck with good towing power.



Sounds like all you need to do is get a seat cover and a small car to tool around in.

Sometimes when I hit a bump the breaker for the windows falls out.


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## Sagetown (Jan 26, 2012)

Thanks SalC; I'll take it in to the shop, and have them give it a good look over from top to bottom, and hope they give me a good report. I'll come back with an update.


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## Guido Salvage (Jan 29, 2012)

Many years ago I had a 1990 F-250 with a 302. Horrible on fuel, I got better mileage on the road with my IH flatbed with a 6.9 diesel. Ford ended up paying for a repaint as the primer was bad and the paint blistered off. Pulled the bumper off towing a trailer, discovered the mounting brackets were made of pot metal. Replaced them with some cut down Bushhog blades and solved that problem.

Sold it to a couple of ladies who wanted to mount a camper and drive it to Idaho to a piece of property one of them owned on the Snake River. Ended up replacing it with a '92 F-350 with a 7.3.

Just a question of whether you want to keep your problems or buy someone else's....


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## Big L (Jan 29, 2012)

Looks to me to be in pretty good shape for a 20 year old truck. May be some rust coming through in the rear wheel wells but that isn't a big deal (to me). If it's a work truck when needed, who cares what it looks like? If you do, go see the local Maaco paint shop for a cheapo paint job?! Speakers can be easily replaced, the window problem is most likely a track issue, probably binding causing the motors to burn out ... again a fairly easy repair. Never heard of the "dash mounts" breaking, perhaps a visit to a welding shop to have that looked at? Tires? If they're not worn out, keep 'em ... just have a good spare imo. You know it's history, I'd hang onto it 

A good friend just bought a new leftover 2011 F250 4x4 5.8l gas, standard cab just like yours, with a Fisher plow ... $40k out the door - Ouch!!

Pick up a 5-10 year old econo-box to run into town with if gas prices are killin' your budget. I have a '98 Subaru outback wagon just for that ... and can haul chainsaws and even a bit of firewood if needed - $500 two years ago


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## Sagetown (Feb 3, 2012)

Well; they've started on my truck this morning, replacing the electric window motors and tracks. All they're gonna do to the dash is replace the broken trim. Checking brakes, lines, hoses, ball joints, shocks, and flush transmission. Have upholstery guys to come and check out the seat. They generally want the truck in their own shop. Tires are 7 yrs old, but okay. I'm looking for a local bodyshop for a paint job.


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## Sagetown (Feb 7, 2012)

Tuesday, February 7th, 2012, UpDate:
The shop guys have pretty much given the truck a once over. Ball joint on the front end are all good. Back brakes need replacing. Some fluid leakeage in different areas. Both door window motors and tracks need replacing. Suspected rocker arm sticking noise turns out to be a leaky manifold. 
Needs new battery. I have a hard time with batteries. The engine has always been hard to turn over, so I went to a large truck battery, and they don't last very long either. A few other odds and ends I can't remember. I do remember the estimate however, $1800(+) so far. No estimate on the seat re-upholstery yet.


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## Ductape (Feb 8, 2012)

Sage, do you have many older ...... 60's and 70's trucks in you area, that aren't full of rust? Man, those would sell like hot cakes here in NH...... especially chebbies. I'm half tempted to send you some cash so you can mail me up a couple truck / auto trader type magazines to drool over.


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## Sagetown (Feb 11, 2012)

UpDate Feb 10th, 2012
Another call from the shop. Custom Seat Repair guys came and looked the truck over. Said they'd go ahead and let the mechanics take out the seat and they'd go ahead and re upholstry it while the shop continues to work on the truck.

Ductape; I don't know off hand about those old trucks.


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## Walt41 (Feb 11, 2012)

Don't forget to have them service the transmission. As far as extracting more power, I'd look into a dual exhaust and a K&N air filter. I never had much love for Fords but, I did own a few and they treated me right, as long as the interior guy is in there, have him stuff a little extra padding for your lower back, it helps on those older seats.


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## Sagetown (Feb 12, 2012)

Walt41 said:


> Don't forget to have* them service the transmission*. As far as extracting more power, I'd look into a dual exhaust and a K&N air filter. I never had much love for Fords but, I did own a few and they treated me right, as long as the interior guy is in there, have him stuff a little extra padding for your lower back, it helps on those older seats.



I had the transmission serviced a few years back. As for the seat, the drivers side is equipped with power comfort adjustments for the lower back. Now the dual exhausts is a thought. I had them on a 57 burgandy red ford truck w/big engine and big headers with screw-on caps, and T-Bird rear-end, when I was in school. Won a few drag races with it.


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## Sagetown (Feb 12, 2012)

Transmission is getting flushed out, and new fluids put in.


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## Big L (Feb 12, 2012)

See Sage ... spending a few bucks on an old truck and it will be like new :smile2:, at least until something else breaks.  What have you got into it so far maybe $2500? Did you get a quote on the new paint job?


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## Sagetown (Feb 12, 2012)

Hey Big L: I've located a body shop. I'll be checking on a quote with them. The garage is almost done with their part. My last running total is about $2400. I have no idea what a paint job costs these days. I'm going with a red paint.


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## Halligan (Feb 14, 2012)

Good job keeping the old girl running. Even if you spend $5,000 to get it all done your still way ahead of the game. Look forward to seeing the finished product.


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## Big L (Feb 14, 2012)

Halligan said:


> Good job keeping the old girl running. Even if you spend $5,000 to get it all done your still way ahead of the game. Look forward to seeing the finished product.



I concur Hall ::thumbsup:: ... Like I said in an earlier post, 40k for a new truck seems out of reach for most folks, including me :rolleyes2: Get this though, I'm quite happy with my 12 year old f150 .. 14 year old Subaru ... and 45 year old VW  Proper maintenance, and having good friends to do repairs when required (that trade goods ... like firewood ) is where its at. Also equals tlco .... total lower cost of ownership


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## Sawdustmaker (Feb 15, 2012)

you could always put a 12 valve cummins or a DT360 in it.


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## Sagetown (Feb 18, 2012)

Got my truck back last night, but it's going back in Monday. They replaced all my U-Joints, and I feel it has a problem there. About 2/3rds way home a loud humm developed, and then it began to shimmy like something is out of balance. Hope it will make the trip back to the Garage.


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## Walt41 (Feb 18, 2012)

Sagetown said:


> Got my truck back last night, but it's going back in Monday. They replaced all my U-Joints, and I feel it has a problem there. About 2/3rds way home a loud humm developed, and then it began to shimmy like something is out of balance. Hope it will make the trip back to the Garage.



Before you attempt to drive it back, get under there and visually inspect all the new joints to make sure a cap is not ready to fall off or that one already did, having a joint unload at speed is damaging and dangerous. Also, just for my own curiosity, warm it up a little and check the trans fluid level and the transfer case level with it in park. If everything checks out, check all the tires and lugs too, just to be safe on the return trip.


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## Sagetown (Feb 18, 2012)

Walt41 said:


> Before you attempt to drive it back, get under there and visually inspect all the new joints to make sure a cap is not ready to fall off or that one already did, having a joint unload at speed is damaging and dangerous. Also, just for my own curiosity, warm it up a little and check the trans fluid level and the transfer case level with it in park. If everything checks out, check all the tires and lugs too, just to be safe on the return trip.



Thanks. I had already intended to check the U-Joints, but better do those other checks also since they flushed the trans., and put new shocks on. The transfer case shouldn't have been disturbed. Does it have a check port or what?


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## Walt41 (Feb 18, 2012)

Sagetown said:


> Thanks. I had already intended to check the U-Joints, but better do those other checks also since they flushed the trans., and put new shocks on. The transfer case shouldn't have been disturbed. Does it have a check port or what?



There is a fill/check plug and a drain....can't remember if yours is a bolt head or you use a socket extension. Either way hit them with some PB or other penetrant to prevent cussing, usually the level is about 1/16-1/8 below the check port, any lower and you should add fluid, or better yet, stick a welding magnet to the drain plug and drive around a little in 4x4 and then drain and refill it.


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## Sagetown (Feb 18, 2012)

I checked everything out, and all looks good. They only replaced the back drive shaft U-joints, but the hum was coming from the front. I couldn't see a check plug for the transfer case, but will look again. I'm going to drive it some more, maybe I was a little hyper.


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## Walt41 (Feb 18, 2012)

Did they do brakes? Any front end work? Rotate tires? Could be as simple as a thrown weight or something like a gaffed up caliper line, I once had a guy do his own brake work and left his front caliper lines pinched off for three days with vise grips and wondered why his new calipers were sticking.


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## Halligan (Feb 18, 2012)

Sorry to hear about the noise/vibration issue. Could be a U-joint issue or even a broken belt in a tire. As for the transfer case I do recommend a fluid change. Usually they're filled with whatever ATF your tranny takes but double check. On the rear of the transfer case housing near where the rear driveshaft attaches their should be two plugs. One near the bottom and one about half way up. They most often have a recessed square hole in them that you fit a 3/8 drive ratchet extension in to remove. However, it may be a regular hex head as well. My advice is to make sure you can get the upper (fill plug) out before you remove the lower (drain plug). Would be a real bummer to drain the t-case and realize you can't get the fill plug out. On my Dodge's the fill level is the bottom of the fill hole. Keep us posted and please take some before and after pictures of the paint job.


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## Sagetown (Feb 18, 2012)

They flushed the brakes, and transmission. I found the check plug.


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## Walt41 (Feb 18, 2012)

They MAY (remember I'm not standing there) have soaked your front pads in fluid during the flush by accident, some pads cannot take this and you may have a front pad that is slightly hanging up and causing the harmonic vibration you are feeling.


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## Sagetown (Feb 18, 2012)

I see where they flushed the brakes, but it doesn't look bad. I jacked the front-end and spun each wheel. Man they don't spin very freely . Is that norm for a 4x4? There wasn't any apparent friction at all. I put it in 4wheel drive and drove it around. Everything seems norm at slow speeds. I'll put it on the highway Monday and see what goes then.


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## Walt41 (Feb 18, 2012)

I wonder if a caliper is hanging up slightly, the front wheels should spin but not real free as the internals of the front drive system are still turning. The next thing I would check is the front end alignment with some nylon string and stakes, pull the truck on the lawn and stake a 90 degree angle in front of your truck using a carpenters square and measure the distances from the front and back of the front tire sidewall at Axel height, check both sides. I know an alignment machine is the only real accurate way to do it but, you will be able to see if you have a big issue this way.


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## Sagetown (Feb 20, 2012)

Got some great news, and some dissappointing news.
Here the latest scoop. Took the truck for a 16 mile drive at speeds up to 70mph, and all went well. May never know the cause of that noise and shimmering on the way home Friday. I checked everything out. Even the Transfer Case, which has never been touched in the twenty years I've owned the truck, was full of oil. It is pretty black however, so I'm going to change it my self. 

The other news is; I stopped by the body shop for an estimated cost on a paint job. $3,000 low, up to $4,500 top. Was told the clear coat paint was very expensive at $200 per gallon. That's out of my ballpark for a make over. It'll just have to grow old and uglier with me.


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## Walt41 (Feb 20, 2012)

*All is not lost*

Do you have a community college or trade school near you? They are always looking for projects and all you have to do is pay for supplies. My son is taking auto and auto body courses now on his way to becoming an insurance adjuster, so far I have gotten two sets of tires mounted, all my trailer drums cut, a hood painted, brakes on my buddies truck and soon he is going to paint one of my chippers for me. It is worth investigating what your options are.


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## Big L (Feb 20, 2012)

Sagetown said:


> The other news is; I stopped by the body shop for an estimated cost on a paint job. $3,000 low, up to $4,500 top. Was told the clear coat paint was very expensive at $200 per gallon. That's out of my ballpark for a make over. It'll just have to grow old and uglier with me.



Wow, really?? What do they think it's a classic vette or something? Sounds steep to me. Walt has a good idea there, perhaps there is a tech school in the area ... or drive a bit further to a Maaco shop if there is one not too far away.

Glad the vibration subsided ... good news :smile2:


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## Sagetown (Feb 20, 2012)

Big L said:


> Wow, really?? What do they think it's a classic vette or something? Sounds steep to me. Walt has a good idea there, perhaps there is a tech school in the area ... or drive a bit further to a Maaco shop if there is one not too far away.
> 
> Glad the vibration subsided ... good news :smile2:




Hey Guys thanks for the tip. There are two colleges near by I can check with.


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## Halligan (Feb 20, 2012)

Glad to hear the noise/vibe went away. As for paint I would personally try another place. I'm sure a Maaco style shop could do it cheaper. I was guessing around $2000 for your truck if there is not a lot of rust.


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## Walt41 (Feb 20, 2012)

I would one shot a work truck as well, clear coat paint would be a waste when you can get a cheaper, more durable finish for less with one shot, as a bonus it is easy to match if you have to fix any areas of damage from using it like a truck.


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## Walt41 (Feb 20, 2012)

Based on your vibration going away I would say rust/ gunk on the rotors. I had a 3/4 chevy that I finally got around to putting a new ignition cylinder in today and it had quite a bit of rust on the rotors from not moving for a week, it is one of my buddies plow trucks and since we have not really had a winter, he was in no hurry to drop off the new cylinder and keys.


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## Sagetown (Feb 20, 2012)

Rotors. Hmm, could'ave been.
As far as paint. My SIL is an excellent auto painter. Getting him around to it is another matter. My youngest son's FIL has all the equip, and I have a shop full of junk(treasure) I could move somewhere,maybe. I'll have to talk with them and see how it goes over.


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## Sagetown (Apr 5, 2012)

Well; Monday, after towing a fertilizer wagon some 40 miles, the old truck began acting up, and seemed sluggish. Came to a stop sign, and it really showed out. Couldn't hardly get across the intersection, and hobbled the rest of the way home. Transmission, I'm thinking. So checked with a couple of Trany Shops today. Both said it cost in the neighborhood of $1700-$1800 with a heavy duty Torc Converter. I called a tow service to haul the truck to the shop this afternoon.


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## Walt41 (Apr 5, 2012)

E40d has less than $200 in parts in it, might look into tech school rebuild or new one from summit for same $. First I would make sure the guy that serviced it put the screen in right, if it wasn't seated right it could have fallen down and now it is sucking air. For 20 minutes on your back to drop the pan, I would start there.


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## Sagetown (Apr 5, 2012)

Walt41 said:


> E40d has less than $200 in parts in it, might look into tech school rebuild or new one from summit for same $. First I would make sure the guy that serviced it put the screen in right, if it wasn't seated right it could have fallen down and now it is sucking air. For 20 minutes on your back to drop the pan, I would start there.



What is so expensive then? These two businesses were the low ones.
It comes with a 2 yr warrantee.


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## Sagetown (Apr 5, 2012)

There is a difference I noted. You mentioned A4OD which costs less than a A4ODE like mine.


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## Walt41 (Apr 6, 2012)

Even a TCI performance kit is only $311, I'd still check the filter/screen deal. Issue is it probably was not put in right when you had it serviced and slipped down, I would not go any further till I had the pan dropped and verified it's placement, based on the time you had it serviced and now is about right if it was not put in right.


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## Sagetown (Apr 6, 2012)

Walt41 said:


> Even a TCI performance kit is only $311, I'd still check the filter/screen deal. Issue is it probably was not put in right when you had it serviced and slipped down, I would not go any further till I had the pan dropped and verified it's placement, based on the time you had it serviced and now is about right if it was not put in right.



Walt; it's quite obivious I don't have the automotive skills and knowledge you have, becaues I'd been right in there as you've stated.
For that reason I have to rely on their integrity to treat me in a professional manner. If they find a simple remedy, and hide it from me, they have the same Judge as I have to reckon with one day.


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## Walt41 (Apr 6, 2012)

I'm not saying they are out to pull one over on you, in fact most shops are honest...it's the laziness factor that sometimes gets confused with dishonesty. I think it is worth you calling the shop and just telling them that you would like to be there when the pan is dropped, usually everything you want to know is right there, on a fried tranny there will be bits of clutch material and on really bad grenades even metal shavings. I just can't shake the feeling that this is not a major problem but a simple one like the filter being loose or simply lost fluid.


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## Sagetown (Apr 6, 2012)

What I didn't mention on that fateful day was all the chattering coming from truck, and that loud harmonic hum returned at 55mph. So loud you couldn't hear to think. I was glad I made it home.


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## Walt41 (Apr 6, 2012)

Might just be a torque converter, they should still be able to sort it out when the pan is removed.


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## Sagetown (Apr 12, 2012)

Picked up my truck from the Transmission shop. I'm glad to get it back home. Got some hauling to do shortly.


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