# What is a Pro Mac 700 worth?



## biscuit141 (May 24, 2011)

One popped up on my local craigslist tonight. They are asking $150. It seems to be in good shape, comes with a mac case and the bar is in a sleeve. Description says dealer owned in the original case. Don't know anything else about it aside from that. I have been looking for a 70+cc saw for a little bit. I don't cut a lot of large wood so I didn't want to break the bank buying one. I have also always wanted an older saw for the nostalgia factor. I have a large tree trunk down at my moms house I have been waiting for a larger saw to cut it up with. What size bars do these usually come with, the ad doesn't specify.

If it checks out, how much should I offer? is it worth the $150?


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## ChainsawmanXX (May 24, 2011)

biscuit141 said:


> One popped up on my local craigslist tonight. They are asking $150. It seems to be in good shape, comes with a mac case and the bar is in a sleeve. Description says dealer owned in the original case. Don't know anything else about it aside from that. I have been looking for a 70+cc saw for a little bit. I don't cut a lot of large wood so I didn't want to break the bank buying one. I have also always wanted an older saw for the nostalgia factor. I have a large tree trunk down at my moms house I have been waiting for a larger saw to cut it up with. What size bars do these usually come with, the ad doesn't specify.
> 
> If it checks out, how much should I offer? is it worth the $150?


 
McCulloch Pro Mac 700 Chainsaw | eBay

Here is a real nice one. I think it would be alittle to much. But if you have the money, get it! 
By the way I was born In South Bend, IN. My mom and dad lived in Elkhart for about 20 some years.


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## biscuit141 (May 24, 2011)

ChainsawmanXX said:


> McCulloch Pro Mac 700 Chainsaw | eBay
> 
> Here is a real nice one. I think it would be alittle to much. But if you have the money, get it!
> By the way I was born In South Bend, IN. My mom and dad lived in Elkhart for about 20 some years.


 
You think the $150 is a little much? I plan to offer less, I just didn't know what was fair. I was thinking in the $100 to $125 range. The one you linked to on ebay is a parts saw, this one actually runs.


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## Warped5 (May 24, 2011)

biscuit141 said:


> One popped up on my local craigslist tonight. They are asking $150. It seems to be in good shape, comes with a mac case and the bar is in a sleeve. Description says dealer owned in the original case. Don't know anything else about it aside from that. I have been looking for a 70+cc saw for a little bit. I don't cut a lot of large wood so I didn't want to break the bank buying one. I have also always wanted an older saw for the nostalgia factor. I have a large tree trunk down at my moms house I have been waiting for a larger saw to cut it up with. What size bars do these usually come with, the ad doesn't specify.
> 
> If it checks out, how much should I offer? is it worth the $150?


 
:msp_scared: You saw that too!

I was gonna contact them, but figured it was a bit pricey ....

.... if you got the coin, go for it but negotiate down! Good luck!


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## promac850 (May 24, 2011)

biscuit141 said:


> One popped up on my local craigslist tonight. They are asking $150. It seems to be in good shape, comes with a mac case and the bar is in a sleeve. Description says dealer owned in the original case. Don't know anything else about it aside from that. I have been looking for a 70+cc saw for a little bit. I don't cut a lot of large wood so I didn't want to break the bank buying one. I have also always wanted an older saw for the nostalgia factor. I have a large tree trunk down at my moms house I have been waiting for a larger saw to cut it up with. What size bars do these usually come with, the ad doesn't specify.
> 
> If it checks out, how much should I offer? is it worth the $150?


 
If you know the dealer is honest... and that saw does indeed look good and run great, then 100 isn't out of the question... 150 is a bit high IMHO.

In the end, it's up to you. You know you're gonna have to pay out the hind end for a 372XP or the like, and still will not have the 'nostalgia' factor. In this case, 150 ain't that bad of a deal if the saw turns out to be as good as it sounds. 

If you want, throw some offers at him, see if he'll bite at 120 or so. Do it there with cash in hand... that makes a good deal better a lot of the time... 

Hope this works out for you.


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## Warped5 (May 24, 2011)

promac610 said:


> If you know the dealer is honest... and that saw does indeed look good and run great, then 100 isn't out of the question... 150 is a bit high IMHO.
> 
> In the end, it's up to you. You know you're gonna have to pay out the hind end for a 372XP or the like, and still will not have the 'nostalgia' factor. In this case, 150 ain't that bad of a deal if the saw turns out to be as good as it sounds.
> 
> ...


 
Hey ProMac! (Nice butt) Congrats on post 4300!


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## heimannm (May 24, 2011)

A PM700 in good condition should be well worth $150. A lot of folks have paid more than that for a the 10-10S which is only 57 cc.

If you want a saw you can use and enjoy, the PM700 is a good canditate.

Mark


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## ChainsawmanXX (May 24, 2011)

biscuit141 said:


> You think the $150 is a little much? I plan to offer less, I just didn't know what was fair. I was thinking in the $100 to $125 range. The one you linked to on ebay is a parts saw, this one actually runs.


 
I guess your right i didnt see that. Sorry I have been wrong before.... and before that... 

Id say go for it.


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## biscuit141 (May 25, 2011)

I just called the seller, it's actually a shop selling the saw for the former shop owner. They said it has good compression and is in really good shape for its age. The seller has had it since new and hasn't used it a ton. He also said he would come down a bit on price if paid in cash. However it only has a 18" B&C on it now, and I would be buying this for larger wood so I would have to put something else on it. How big of a bar is this saw comfortable pulling? Also, if the condition checks out, what is a fair price? I was thinking of offering a $100 and seeing what happens, ideally I would like to keep it at $125 or below, especially since I will need a larger B&C.

I'm going to see it on my lunch at 11:30, so please give me some feedback before them. I have 3 hours to wait.


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## cpr (May 25, 2011)

You could offer less, but I'd say its a fair price for decent 700 with a case. My guess is $100 won't get it. You can always take the bar and chain off and sell/save it for something else and get a 24" to slap on it.


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## Vibes (May 25, 2011)

The prices on those PM 700 have come down quite a bit the last few years. But if that saw is clean and a runner $150 is a good price. I bought a used one some years back thats really clean but needed the coil for $100. I bought a new in box one from a closed shop near me for $250 after that and kept it NIB. A year later a NIB one was on E-bay and it sold for over $950. Well I contacted the first loser and you know the rest of this story.

My buddy who found me the NIB one has a PM 700 and he runs a 20 inch bar and on occasion puts on a 28 and his saw pulls it fine. I wouldn't run one all the time burried in 40 inch oak, but his pulls it fine. You know the saying, sharp chain and let the saw do the work. 

If your interested, I have a new 28'' hardnose bar and chain that I'll part with. PM me if interested.


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## Warped5 (May 25, 2011)

*Go for it!*

Shoot him $100 offer and bargain a bit with him a bit. Explain your side - that you need to replace the B&C and that will cost about $60 (REALLY can do it under $40 or so) .... 

BTW, I'd say it can handle a 20" OK, but would not go larger ... YMMV


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## Vibes (May 25, 2011)

If you can run that saw for about 15 minutes or so do it. Those saws have weak coils that when they go, the saw will start and run fine till it gets hot, and then dies. If you can't do that, ask if the shop will back it up.


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## biscuit141 (May 25, 2011)

Vibes said:


> If you can run that saw for about 15 minutes or so do it. Those saws have weak coils that when they go, the saw will start and run fine till it gets hot, and then dies. If you can't do that, ask if the shop will back it up.


 
If the coil does go, how much would I be looking at? It doesn't sound like the saw had a hard life, would the coil fail from use or from age first?


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## biscuit141 (May 25, 2011)

Warped5 said:


> Shoot him $100 offer and bargain a bit with him a bit. Explain your side - that you need to replace the B&C and that will cost about $60 (REALLY can do it under $40 or so) ....
> 
> BTW, I'd say it can handle a 20" OK, but would not go larger ... YMMV


 
Where should I be looking for affordable B&C options? $40 would be nice.


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## cpr (May 25, 2011)

I'm sure a member here ought be able to find a bar. mheimann would be a good source to ask, he's a super guy and you won't argue with the price.

The coil ought to be the same as 10series and a ton of other Macs and can be had by the bucketfull on chainsawr.com, ebay, or anywhere, really.


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## Warped5 (May 25, 2011)

biscuit141 said:


> Where should I be looking for affordable B&C options? $40 would be nice.


 
I agree that Mark would be a good place to start! Then (in order):
I'd check the 'Swap Meet' thread here
Check chainsawr web site
eBay (have gottten some GOOD deals)
Bailey's specials / closeouts


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## Chris J. (May 25, 2011)

biscuit141 said:


> If the coil does go, how much would I be looking at? It doesn't sound like the saw had a hard life, *would the coil fail from use or from age first?*



I'm interested in the answer to this question.


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## biscuit141 (May 25, 2011)

Are these saws a .050 guage and .325 pitch?


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## HILLBILLYREDNEC (May 25, 2011)

*Saw bar*

What length ? I have a bar or two for sale. I have a 28" 404 bar for this series if any one wants it. Most of these old saws had 3/8 .50 gauge as the setup.
The the late 70s coils drop right in. not very expensive, let me see if in my saw grave yard if there is one lurking.


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## promac850 (May 25, 2011)

biscuit141 said:


> Are these saws a .050 guage and .325 pitch?


 
3/8" pitch, sometimes .404" usually .050" gauge.


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## Aaron441 (May 25, 2011)

*Pm700*

I gave $225 for a nice really late model one about 4 years ago and was happy to get it for that price. If I wanted another one I would be on my way to South Bend right now to beat you to that one, but 6 is enough for now. They are loud and will rattle your teeth out of your head, but they will cut circles around a lot of modern saws.


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## biscuit141 (May 25, 2011)

OK, here is the deal. I just got back from looking at the saw. i appears to be in really good shape, idles a little high, easy fix. Fired up after a few pulls, decomp valve worked fine, not to hard to pull. After it was ran for a minute it fired right up on a pull or two. The only issues I found were the gas cap gasket was broken and coming apart and the throttle cable would not stay hooked into the trigger no matter how hard we tried to get it to stay. it looks like it needs to be bent up and that might work. Anyone delt with this before?

He said he would take $125 cash, it had a 20" B&C. The original Mac bar it appeared. Chain looked nearly new and sharp. It is a .050 guage and 3/8 pitch. What do you think? They are supposed to hold it and call the seller for me to ask about the throttle and trigger issue.

On a side note, the shop had a 28" Husky B&C used they they were selling for $75. They said it would work on the saw. I am looking for a larger B&C if the sale goes through. If you have one for sale PM me.


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## Aaron441 (May 25, 2011)

There is suppoed to be a little black rubber strap between the throttle and choke rods to hold them together. Take the air filter off and see if it is still there.

AND BUY THE SAW!


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## Warped5 (May 25, 2011)

$125 doesn't sound too bad. Those fixes seem minor.

IMHO, $75 for a used Husky B&C is a bit steep and I've already said I wouldn't be wild about going over a 20" bar.


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## biscuit141 (May 25, 2011)

Aaron441 said:


> There is suppoed to be a little black rubber strap between the throttle and choke rods to hold them together. Take the air filter off and see if it is still there.
> 
> AND BUY THE SAW!


 
Rubber strap is still there. We fiddle with this thing for 1/2 hour and couldn't get it stay.

Damn now I need to call them and tell them I will be there after work. You're telling me at $125 this is too good to pass up?


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## Aaron441 (May 25, 2011)

And if you look on ebay you can get NOS McCulloch bars 28" and bigger for less than $75 bucks. I think that is a little much for a used bar and chain.


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## Aaron441 (May 25, 2011)

biscuit141 said:


> Damn now I need to call them and tell them I will be there after work. You're telling me at $125 this is too good to pass up?


 
Yes, unless you want to give me his number.


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## cpr (May 25, 2011)

Buy that saw. The bar is too much though. I paid around half that for a new 28" Tsumura for my 288.

28" would be okay on that with skip and sharp chain, just can't dog her in too hard.


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## biscuit141 (May 25, 2011)

Alright. I just called them and told them i would take the saw. They said they will make up the invoice and I'll pick it up after work. Now I need to figure out how to fix the trigger issue. If anyone has some input I would appreciate it. Also, where can I buy a gas cap gasket?


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## Aaron441 (May 25, 2011)

I'd probably just get it over with and try to find a gas cap. Ebay, chainsawr, trading post on here. You may be able to bend that rod a little where it hooks into the trigger and solve your other problem. Try flipping the saw over and see if you can tell any more by looking at the bottom of the handle.


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## promac850 (May 25, 2011)

biscuit141 said:


> OK, here is the deal. I just got back from looking at the saw. i appears to be in really good shape, idles a little high, easy fix. Fired up after a few pulls, decomp valve worked fine, not to hard to pull. After it was ran for a minute it fired right up on a pull or two. The only issues I found were the *gas cap gasket* was broken and coming apart and the throttle cable would not stay hooked into the trigger no matter how hard we tried to get it to stay. it looks like it needs to be bent up and that might work. Anyone delt with this before?


 
Go to autozone and pick up a roll of cork/rubber gasket material. Made by Fel-Pro, and I've made a cap gasket for my 850. It works great. 

Throttle rod probably just needs a little tweaking. Doesn't sound like anything that should be a major problem.

I'm waiting for pics...


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## Duke Thieroff (May 25, 2011)

biscuit141 said:


> Alright. I just called them and told them i would take the saw. They said they will make up the invoice and I'll pick it up after work. Now I need to figure out how to fix the trigger issue. If anyone has some input I would appreciate it. Also, where can I buy a gas cap gasket?



On the choke and throttle linkage underneath the air filter there should be a black piece of ruber conectiongs both the choke rod and the throttle rod. If it is not there it will cause this to happen. The part is called a "snubber"

Chris



Warped5 said:


> $125 doesn't sound too bad. Those fixes seem minor.
> 
> IMHO, $75 for a used Husky B&C is a bit steep and I've already said I wouldn't be wild about going over a 20" bar.


 
Ted, how many of these saws have you owned and ran?

Both of my are currently wearing 20" and even when you dog em in and crank on em you can't bog them down.

If you were to put a 24" it would pull it just fine.

Now a 10-10 on the other hand....

Chris


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## Vibes (May 25, 2011)

Parts are readily available for these saws. I've bought several parts and a few spares to have around on E-Bay. I think the coil for these is still available new but they are made in Mexico. If I can find it I'll PM you the number of a guy in New York who has NOS Mac parts around. 

I;m pretty sure those coils are the same for the 10-10 850 700 and a few other Macs from that era. Bars are all over the place for these saws too, but if yours has a 20, I'd say your good to go.


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## Aaron441 (May 25, 2011)

Thieroff said:


> Both of my are currently wearing 20" and even when you dog em in and crank on em you can't bog them down.
> 
> If you were to put a 24" it would pull it just fine.
> 
> ...


 
I've run a 28" on mine in buried dead ash with no trouble at all, and if I had a 32" I'd try it too. Runs out of bar oil pretty quick though.


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## atlarge54 (May 25, 2011)

I know a young farmer who heats with wood and his only saw is a promac 70. I've never used it but after hearing it I'd have to say that is one saw that will NOT RESPOND TO A MUFF MOD. That sucker WAS LOUD.


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## Warped5 (May 25, 2011)

Thieroff said:


> Ted, how many of these saws have you owned and ran?
> 
> Both of my are currently wearing 20" and even when you dog em in and crank on em you can't bog them down.
> 
> ...


 
I read the later post too .... are you REALLY telling me to scrap the order for the 20" NOS bar and go to a 24" or larger?:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


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## biscuit141 (May 25, 2011)

OK, I did not get a chance play around with it tonight, but here are the pictures. Let me know what you think.


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## rwoods (May 25, 2011)

If it runs as good as it looks you will be pleased. Just remember it has no AV system. Gloves might help. Ron


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## cpr (May 25, 2011)

Congrats and condolences...

You're about to experience Yellow Fever.


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## Warped5 (May 25, 2011)

cpr said:


> Congrats and condolences...
> 
> You're about to experience Yellow Fever.


 
Ok, what are you waitin' for? You got the saw and posted the pix .... now start looking for the NEXT one!


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## heimannm (May 25, 2011)

I think you will be surprised how large of wood you can cut through with that bar and some determination.

A longer bar may come in handy from time to time, but use it like that for now and you will be pleased.

Mark


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## rwoods (May 25, 2011)

heimannm said:


> I think you will be surprised how large of wood you can cut through with that bar and some determination.
> 
> A longer bar may come in handy from time to time, but use it like that for now and you will be pleased.
> 
> Mark


 
My two cents: Invest your bar money in some spare "pro" chains. If you later find you want a longer bar they are out there almost everyday. NOS 28" bars seem to be very plentiful; NOS 24" are getting harder to come by. But there are plenty of new bars available that aren't branded McCulloch. I believe Oregon and Windsor both made branded bars for McCulloch so I would assume their own brand would be of similar quality. I ran a 28" hardnose on my PM700 for many years but have now downsized it as I have other saws for those tasks. Ron


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## mactodd (May 25, 2011)

From the looks of that chain, he's already running 33RSC. It sure ain't a Home Depot Oregon!
I'd swap out that heavy chainbrake/clutch/muffler cover for a early flat clutch cover with a falling spike and call it a day and run it till it pukes. (which will be a very long time if ya run good oil 40:1)


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## biscuit141 (May 26, 2011)

mactodd said:


> From the looks of that chain, he's already running 33RSC. It sure ain't a Home Depot Oregon!
> I'd swap out that heavy chainbrake/clutch/muffler cover for a early flat clutch cover with a falling spike and call it a day and run it till it pukes. (which will be a very long time if ya run good oil 40:1)


 
Where is a good place to look for these things? How much should I expect to pay?


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## Warped5 (May 26, 2011)

mactodd said:


> From the looks of that chain, he's already running 33RSC. It sure ain't a Home Depot Oregon!
> I'd swap out that heavy chainbrake/clutch/muffler cover for a early flat clutch cover with a falling spike and call it a day and run it till it pukes. (which will be a very long time if ya run good oil 40:1)


 
Can you point me to a pic or an IPL showing the 'early flat clutch cover?' Thanks!


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## slipknot (May 26, 2011)

Warped5 said:


> Hey ProMac! (Nice butt) Congrats on post 4300!


 
LOL hey if you find a pro mac 4300 thats a really rare version of the pro mac 70/700 with case......anyways $150 for a NICE pm 700 and case...its worth more than that...about $200. I just sold a pro mac 55 power head(no bar) for $176(ebay) which is the earliest version of the 10-10s Mark was talking about. Guys, inflation is happening and our dollar is worth significantly less...so remember to take that into account. I was recently offered $200 cash for one of my 10-10s and will sell it if he comes back. My 10-10s are pristine though. Just my opinion.


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## mactodd (May 26, 2011)

Warped5 said:


> Can you point me to a pic or an IPL showing the 'early flat clutch cover?' Thanks!


 
The early cover for left hand starter models looks like this, and uses the same spike as the RH start saws;







The later flat cover had the chain brake, but no exhaust guard. You can gut the brake, and get close to the early version in weight, but it is not as attractive, and it uses the later spike for the 600 series.


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## slipknot (May 26, 2011)

biscuit141 said:


> Alright. I just called them and told them i would take the saw. They said they will make up the invoice and I'll pick it up after work. Now I need to figure out how to fix the trigger issue. If anyone has some input I would appreciate it. Also, where can I buy a gas cap gasket?


 
Just make one out of thick cork gasket material...very easy and cheaper and better than the ones you can buy off ebay....because on the NOS cork....the cork dries out from old age and may end up breaking during installation. The dealer said a used husky 28" bar will work....im not sure about that....does anyone know for sure? It may mount right up but what about the oiler holes...and is this a large tail or small tail husky bar...im thinking it was a small mount I tried and it wouldnt oil.


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## Dennis Gauge (May 26, 2011)

biscuit141 said:


> Where is a good place to look for these things? How much should I expect to pay?


 
Frankly, I would keep the chain brake in place. It's a little bit of insurance for us non-professionals, and frankly, I like the look of the old Mcculloch 10-series with the chain brake handle sticking up.

I would run 'er as-is.


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## slipknot (May 26, 2011)

*grey oil*

Also I'll be the first to say it since nobody else noticed....that is not the original oil tank and probably not the original cylinder....notice the grey tank color....I'm pretty sure the tank and cylinder were sold as a 'matched' pair as OEM replacement so maybe he toasted the cylinder as some point. Ive never seen a PM 700 with a grey oil tank as its original. When i say matched...its because they machined the bearing/seal and crank holes together..otherwise one would be off if they didnt. The oil tank is machine fit to the cylinder assembly...i dont know how else to explain it..but ya'll get what im saying.:help: I've had a few of the NOS assmebly's and they were all that grey color.


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## Dennis Gauge (May 26, 2011)

I thought the late-late PM700's like this one were all black on the bottom... The recoil and clutch cover definitely are supposed to be black. Only the tank was supposed to be yellow.

So you're saying the oil tank should be yellow?


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## slipknot (May 26, 2011)

Dennis Gauge said:


> I thought the late-late PM700's like this one were all black on the bottom... The recoil and clutch cover definitely are supposed to be black. Only the tank was supposed to be yellow.
> 
> So you're saying the oil tank should be yellow?


 
I think they came both yellow and black..it depends on what mood they were in at the factory or maybe what year it was made...I have a 2 10-10's and one has a yellow tank and the other is black....but I know for sure that grey is OEM replacement. Not sure why they did that. Can anyone else back me up on that? Hey Mark, cpr you guys would know..lol


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## heimannm (May 26, 2011)

The only grey parts I have are on the PM5700 (version of the 600 Series saw) and the Titan 57, both of them came that way. The grey would seem to indicate the parts were perhaps later than the saw, or were some PM700's made after 1990?

Mark


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## Aaron441 (May 26, 2011)

slipknot said:


> notice the grey tank color....I'm pretty sure the tank and cylinder were sold as a 'matched' pair as OEM replacement so maybe he toasted the cylinder as some point. Ive never seen a PM 700 with a grey oil tank as its original.
> I've had a few of the NOS assmebly's and they were all that grey color.


 
It looks just like one of mine. Grey oil tank, round air filter knob, and green oiler button, black recoil and brake cover. I always thought that the really late ones came that way, but I don't know that for a fact.
All my other 700's have 600061 as an assembly numer though, that one is different, but I can't remember what it is. Anybody know the number for a 4300?


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## Aaron441 (May 26, 2011)

heimannm said:


> or were some PM700's made after 1990?
> 
> Mark



I have seen some 700 owners manuals dated up to 1994, whatever that meens.


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## slipknot (May 26, 2011)

heimannm said:


> The only grey parts I have are on the PM5700 (version of the 600 Series saw) and the Titan 57, both of them came that way. The grey would seem to indicate the parts were perhaps later than the saw, or were some PM700's made after 1990?
> 
> Mark


 
Yeah I forgot about the titan's they were grey from the Italian factory. You are right. I still say that he sniped a great deal on that saw whether it has the original cylinder assembly or not. Ive seen parts saws go for cheap $75 or there abouts but great shape running saws like that with a solid sprocket tip bar...I'd buy all those I could get my greedy hands on. Congrats on a great saw..Im not splittin frog hairs over the grey color just thought I'd bring that up to add to the discussion.


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## biscuit141 (May 26, 2011)

slipknot said:


> Yeah I forgot about the titan's they were grey from the Italian factory. You are right. I still say that he sniped a great deal on that saw whether it has the original cylinder assembly or not. Ive seen parts saws go for cheap $75 or there abouts but great shape running saws like that with a solid sprocket tip bar...I'd buy all those I could get my greedy hands on. Congrats on a great saw..Im not splittin frog hairs over the grey color just thought I'd bring that up to add to the discussion.


 
Thanks everyone for the kind words and help/advice. Not to brag or anything, but I ended up getting the saw for $125, if I hadn't mentioned that already. I will proabably run the saw as is for awhile, I have a 36" soft maple trunk at my moms house that I am dying to sink this into. It has been lying there for 10 months because no one had a saw large enough to tackle it. I may still pick up a larger B&C to play with, but the B&C that came with this saw appear to be in good shape so I will also keep that at the primary.

This saw has a manual oiler, does it also have an automatic? I read mixed reviews online, I thought somewhere said some models had both, I could be wrong. Any advice on how to use a manual oiler?


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## heimannm (May 26, 2011)

All of the PM700 saws have both manual and automatic oiler. For limbing and cutting smaller logs that is probably enough. When you get into a bigger log (generally any that give you time to think of it) I like to push the manual oiler button at least every 5 seconds or so. Additional manual oil is always more critical as the bar length increases.

The automatic oiler can be found under the front cover on the saw which is the oil tank. Turning the screw CCW will increase oil flow, CW reduces oil flow.

Mark


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## Warped5 (May 26, 2011)

*More info ...*

Here is a link to the Pro Mac 700 on the Acres site.

There was also a thread started (by deprime?) specifically for McCulloch manuals, etc right here.

Hope all this helps!


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## slipknot (May 26, 2011)

Warped5 said:


> Here is a link to the Pro Mac 700 on the Acres site.
> 
> There was also a thread started (by deprime?) specifically for McCulloch manuals, etc right here.
> 
> Hope all this helps!


 
Looks like that one has a grey oil tank...guess i was wrong..aint the first time and wont be the last. lol


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## rwoods (May 26, 2011)

mactodd said:


> The early cover for left hand starter models looks like this, and uses the same spike as the RH start saws;
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
I'm not sure what the goal is in changing covers. I have all three versions. The non-brake version is certainly light but you have no chain brake. The early chain brake version as shown in the picture uses the same spikes as the non-chain brake version; it is the newer version that shares spikes with the 600 series. I like the older spikes but you will be hard pressed to find a early chain brake version that is not cracked (or completely busted) at the chain adjuster. Personally I think the later version is the strongest although the heaviest. If you want to make your own then get a cover off a DE80 or the late model PM800 (the one with the cutout for the DSP) - most of these are broken at the muffler guard so you can just cut off the rest of the muffler guard but they have a gusset at the chain adjuster that none of the other chain brake covers have. If you don't want a chain brake then IMO the early non-chain brake cover is the way to go - factory looks, lightweight and easy to handle so you are less likely to tighten the bar down with the adjuster out of slot (the cause of the cracks). Ron


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## Warped5 (May 26, 2011)

*I'm very surprised that during this whole discussion ....*

... that THIS prize was overlooked! :yoyo:


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## cpr (May 26, 2011)

Warped5 said:


> ... that THIS prize was overlooked! :yoyo:


 
WOW...

Someone's in dream-land.

I'm no 10 series expert. I had a 2-10 with yellow jug and tank, my current LM 10-10s is unpainted jug, black tank. In mining the graveyard, 10 series jug and tank sets seemed to indicate early models had yellow jugs and tanks, later had unpainted jugs and either yellow or black tanks.

Whatever, good score. Let's see/hear some video of her purring!


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## biscuit141 (May 28, 2011)

Could anyone with a 700 please post a pic of the trigger area where the throttle rod connects to the trigger? I need to figure out a way to get this fixed permanently. I may need to take the top cover off, does the fuel tank split in half? There is a screw running right down the middle.


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## biscuit141 (May 30, 2011)

Hey all, I wanted to bump this to the top and see I anyone could help me out with a pic of the throttle trigger linkage and how the tank comes apart on this saw. Thanks.


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## Vibes (May 30, 2011)

That NIB saw on Ebay was on there before. I asked the guy to post a picture of the boxand he never did. 

I wish I could post pictures on here biscuit. My computer just won't do it.


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## heimannm (May 30, 2011)

For what it's worth...


Mark


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## heimannm (May 30, 2011)

I ran my PM700 a bit on Saturday with both 20" and 24" bar. Either way it pulls pretty well but I was surprised how heavy it seemed. I also ran my CP55 and thought it was pretty sweet but certainly does not have the power of the PM700. Maybe one day I will get inspired to really fix up the CP70, that should be a great little saw.






Mark


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## rwoods (May 30, 2011)

biscuit141 said:


> Hey all, I wanted to bump this to the top and see I anyone could help me out with a pic of the throttle trigger linkage and how the tank comes apart on this saw. Thanks.


 
Mark has done all I can do. There is not any way to get a picture of the trigger connection that would tell you anything. If you need a shot of the air box side (i.e. the connection to the carb and the threading of the snubber), I can do that. Just let me know. Ron


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## biscuit141 (May 30, 2011)

rwoods said:


> Mark has done all I can do. There is not any way to get a picture of the trigger connection that would tell you anything. If you need a shot of the air box side (i.e. the connection to the carb and the threading of the snubber), I can do that. Just let me know. Ron


 
Yeah, that would be great. I'm just trying to see if I am missing anything as to why it keeps popping out.


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## Tzed250 (May 31, 2011)

I like my 700....


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## rwoods (May 31, 2011)

biscuit141 said:


> Yeah, that would be great. I'm just trying to see if I am missing anything as to why it keeps popping out.


 
I just download pictures of a muffler in the MAC thread but now I can't download the PM700 pictures you wanted :bang: Sometimes (a lot of the time) I hate computers or they hate me. Sorry, Ron


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## rwoods (May 31, 2011)

Here we go: 





















Ron


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## Thomas N. Dowling (Mar 29, 2018)

I'm curious why $100-150 was considered only a pretty good price to buy this saw, when there is currently one being auctioned on eBay with the bidding already over $400. Shipping is $38 and it comes with a new extra bar.


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## JimM (Mar 29, 2018)

Thomas N. Dowling said:


> I'm curious why $100-150 was considered only a pretty good price to buy this saw, when there is currently one being auctioned on eBay with the bidding already over $400. Shipping is $38 and it comes with a new extra bar.


Cause it was several years ago.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 29, 2018)

A PM 700 is worth $400?

Anyone want to buy one?


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## heimannm (Mar 29, 2018)

10-10S went for $480 + $50 shipping last week.

I will sell two for $480 + $50 shipping in the lower 48 with 16 or 20" bars and two chains each...

Mark


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