# best bar for milling?



## onegunsmith (Aug 13, 2013)

I'm looking at buying a new MS660 (no husky dealer close or would consider a 395) and want to know what is the best bar for milling? I've been watching a ton of utube vids and see most are not running factory bars. Being new to CSM i need all the help i can get. Chain info would be great also. As always thanks for the your time and knowledge you have learned through trial and error.


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## scogar (Aug 13, 2013)

I asked a similar question a while back, esp after talking to a vendor or two. This forum (or at least a few on this forum) have suggested I stick with the Stihl Rollomatic. I simply bought a 32 inch bar. Works fine. But I have no other comparisons

Scott


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## mtngun (Aug 13, 2013)

Any of the name brands are fine. I've used Winsdor, Stihl, Carlton, and Frost-Bite. Carltons are harder (at least the old Carltons) but even the softer bars provide many years of service.

I would get an 0.050" gage bar. 

Bailey's house brand milling chain (Carlton) is a good place to start. Regrind to Malloff specs if you want a more aggressive cut.


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## onegunsmith (Aug 14, 2013)

Thank you sirs. I have The Mallof book but see it's dated 1982, so i wondered how much CSM techology might have changed over the years. Ill continue to study the Malloff ways.


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## BobL (Aug 15, 2013)

onegunsmith said:


> Thank you sirs. I have The Mallof book but see it's dated 1982, so i wondered how much CSM techology might have changed over the years. Ill continue to study the Malloff ways.



Not much has changed since 1982, the overall principles are still the same. 
Two things that are not in the Malloff book that are really worth considering are;
- milling on a slope (I can understand why Malloff does not maybe consider this because it is difficult to apply to long logs)
- progressive raker depth setting.


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## psgflier (Aug 30, 2013)

The best bar you can buy is a Cannon, most of the rest are made in the same factory, just different paint. I've heard a couple of the Australian made bars are pretty good.
I personally wouldn't buy another GB bar.
If your serious abut milling, you'll need a bar grinder, or some way to true up the bar. Even the best bars need attention after a good day.
There used to be a place in Portland Oregon that rebuilt bars, welded stellit? on the rails and reground, tougher than owl snot. You see it on the tips of old hardnosed bars and on the end of bars fitted with a roller nose.


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## BobL (Aug 30, 2013)

psgflier said:


> The best bar you can buy is a Cannon, most of the rest are made in the same factory, just different paint. I've heard a couple of the Australian made bars are pretty good.
> I personally wouldn't buy another GB bar.



I have 4 GB bars and they easily as good at the Stihls I have. I think the newer ones may be the ones to watch out for but the GB Titaniums that are stick around are excellent bars.


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## rarefish383 (Aug 30, 2013)

Not to hijack your thread, but the bar question brings up a question for me. Big old Homelite bars are hard to find and quite expensive. I have 2, 36" and 2, 24" bars. Could I send out one 36 and one 24 and have them cut and welded to make something in the 50" range. I have welder friends that say they could do it, but I'd rather send them to someone that does it for a living with a good reputation, Joe.


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## ffquimby (Aug 30, 2013)

*milling*

New to this site, but this was one of the reasons I joined. I've been milling for about 3 years now with an Alaskan sawmill and a Stihl 880 magnum. I am currently using Stihl rollomatic, .404, .063. I am not happy with these bars. I am seeing fast wear on the bars. Are the Cannons and GBs really worth the money? Is anyone else slabing large trees with bars 42" and larger with an Alaskan Mill? What do you guys think?

Thanks PQ


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## BobL (Aug 30, 2013)

ffquimby said:


> New to this site, but this was one of the reasons I joined. I've been milling for about 3 years now with an Alaskan sawmill and a Stihl 880 magnum. I am currently using Stihl rollomatic, .404, .063. I am not happy with these bars. I am seeing fast wear on the bars. Are the Cannons and GBs really worth the money? Is anyone else slabing large trees with bars 42" and larger with an Alaskan Mill? What do you guys think?
> 
> Thanks PQ



90% of bar wear problems are due to the chain not being right. Post a pic of the wear and a large flat side on pic of a single cutter (out of the bar) and we might be able to diagnose the problem.


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## john taliaferro (Aug 31, 2013)

PQ are you running enough oil ,aux oil . I dump peanut oil in large amount on tip of the bar to get enough to curb ware on 60" cannon . Ive got a lot of fiends that fry a lot of fish , they always use fresh oil so i get lots of 5 gallon jugs of it . I always get hungry when milling though .


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## flashhole (Aug 31, 2013)

I do not have extensive experience as I just started this year but the two bars I've used, both Stihl pro bars with the yellow dots, have held up really well.


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## psgflier (Aug 31, 2013)

rarefish383 said:


> Not to hijack your thread, but the bar question brings up a question for me. Big old Homelite bars are hard to find and quite expensive. I have 2, 36" and 2, 24" bars. Could I send out one 36 and one 24 and have them cut and welded to make something in the 50" range. I have welder friends that say they could do it, but I'd rather send them to someone that does it for a living with a good reputation, Joe.



Repairing a bar is something not just any welder can do. Newer bars are laminated, harder metal outside, softer metal inside. Older bars were all the same metal with the rails and tips hardened. The metal hardens with heat. That's why it can be tough to drill a bar, the metal gets harder as you drill. So cutting and welding would do all kinds of nasty things to the bar, and it would need to be annealed and the wear surfaces re-hardened.
There is a shop in Portland, Oregon that does bar work, they used to advertise in Loggers World magazine, but I haven't seen one of those in a few years.


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## Nato (Aug 31, 2013)

I have run maybe 8000 bf. on a 50" cannon, close to 3000 bf on a 72" cannon and both seem to be holding up well. I use carlton ripping chain and use an auxillary oiler. My 36" stihl bar has maybe 2000 bf. on it and is also in great shape. I agree with Bobl that chain tension maybe has something to do with it. I think most people tension their chains way to tight, But I also think carlton chain has a slightly softer steel vs. the stihl chain. I say this because when I have fixed links on stihl chain I have broken a few punch "heads" pressing out the rivits. The carlton is always nice and smooth. I don't have any scientific data to prove this though.


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## onegunsmith (Sep 1, 2013)

Talked to the saw shop today and they only carry Stihl products. One of the draw backs of living in Alaska,not much to choose from. I guess i'll stick with them unless they don't hold up.


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## ffquimby (Sep 6, 2013)

BobL said:


> 90% of bar wear problems are due to the chain not being right. Post a pic of the wear and a large flat side on pic of a single cutter (out of the bar) and we might be able to diagnose the problem.



Thanks BobL. When I sharpen my chain I use a caliper to make sure both left and right hand cutter heads are the same size. I know this maybe overkill, but I do know what kind of problems can arise from improper sharpening. I will try to get some pics. The more I read on this site the more I see that this is a common problem and that maybe this is just normal wear and tear from milling. 

Thanks again
PQ


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