# Removing Carb Limiter Caps???



## max2cam (Feb 5, 2011)

I've got a Echo CS-510 that runs too fast after it warms up but doesn't seem to have any air leaks. I'm thinking the high speed carb adjustment needs to be richer, but I can't open it any farther because of the limiter caps. 

How do you get the limiter caps off without wrecking anything? They appear to be plastic inserts on the side of the carb. What is the best way of removing them? Or do you modify what's there already and leave them in? Are there real adjuster screws underneath? 

I know that the Echo CS-510 isn't the most common saw around here, but maybe somebody knows this from experience. I don't want to mess anything up.

Thanks!


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## tallfarmboy (Feb 5, 2011)

Find a small sheetmetal or wood screw that will just barely fit into the tip of the limiter cap... just keep threading it in and it will slowly pull the plastic off of the actual metal part. Discard the plastic and keep the sheetmetal screw somewhere so you can reuse it. Sounds like you might need to adjust both screws.

TFB


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## REJ2 (Feb 5, 2011)

What i did on my cs530 was make a note of existing needle positions. The screwdriver recess of the needle itself not the plastic limiter slots. Then as mentioned, screw a drywall screw into plastic limiter, turn scew so wings on limiter align with slot in case, pull. Mine came out easily. Position needles back to original, turn richer CCW, trim wings on limiters and reinstall. With wings trimmed unlimited adjustment is now possible.
REJ2


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## Bret4207 (Feb 5, 2011)

Some of the Echoes have a metal insert that sort of locks the caps. Found this out on a 330. It breaks if you pull the caps. I haven't found any kind of a replacement for it so far. Crazy Glue here I come.


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## max2cam (Feb 6, 2011)

tallfarmboy said:


> Find a small sheetmetal or wood screw that will just barely fit into the tip of the limiter cap... just keep threading it in and it will slowly pull the plastic off of the actual metal part. Discard the plastic and keep the sheetmetal screw somewhere so you can reuse it. Sounds like you might need to adjust both screws.
> 
> TFB



Do you remove the carb first to get the screw into the carb limiter cap? That's what it looks like, but you didn't say either way. I don't want to wreck anything.

Does that mean there's a real adjuster screw under the limiter cap? 

Thanks!


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## max2cam (Feb 6, 2011)

REJ2 said:


> What i did on my cs530 was make a note of existing needle positions. The screwdriver recess of the needle itself not the plastic limiter slots. Then as mentioned, screw a drywall screw into plastic limiter, turn scew so wings on limiter align with slot in case, pull. Mine came out easily. Position needles back to original, turn richer CCW, trim wings on limiters and reinstall. With wings trimmed unlimited adjustment is now possible.
> REJ2



Is this done with the carb off? I'll see if I can mark the screw position on mine before I do any surgery on it. With the screw in it, the plastic limiter just pulls straight out. Is that the idea? 

But if you screw something into the plastic limiter cap, doesn't that ruin it for putting it back in and using it again? Wouldn't the slot face be all messed up?

I do like the idea of trimming the wings off and reinstalling the cap. 

Thanks!


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## max2cam (Feb 6, 2011)

Bret4207 said:


> Some of the Echoes have a metal insert that sort of locks the caps. Found this out on a 330. It breaks if you pull the caps. I haven't found any kind of a replacement for it so far. Crazy Glue here I come.



I'll examine mine for that before I trying pulling the limiter cap out. 

With the limiter cap broken like that, isn't there a real adjuster underneath on the carb you can tune? That is something I'm wondering about. What is underneath the cap on the carb itself for an ajustment screw? It can't all be in the limiter cap, can it?

I'll wait another day or two before I work on it. Make sure I understand this. Don't want to screw it up. Small parts easily broken...


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## REJ2 (Feb 6, 2011)

max2cam said:


> Is this down with the carb off? I'll see if I can mark the screw position on mine before I do any surgery on it. With the screw in it, the plastic limiter just pulls straight out. Is that the idea?
> 
> But if you screw something into the plastic limiter cap, doesn't that ruin it for putting it back in and using it again? Wouldn't the slot face be all messed up?
> 
> ...


 

Leave carb on, i did anyway. If carb's off just pull limiters with pliers, but should be no need to pull carb unless way different than what i have on my cs530. Slot face on plastic limiter only slightly defaced still useable as is. I bought two new from Baileys but just reused old ones. Look into opening that houses the needles, should see a slot in the case that fits wings on limiters. This is what your shooting for after attaching to the limiter with drywall screw. Just draw an orientation of needle slot position on paper, shouldnt have to turn much more than a half turn CW attaching drywall screw to limiter and turning attached assembly back CCW to remove. REJ2


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## zogger (Feb 6, 2011)

*on my 600p*



max2cam said:


> I'll examine mine for that before I trying pulling the limiter cap out.
> 
> With the limiter cap broken like that, isn't there a real adjuster underneath on the carb you can tune? That is something I'm wondering about. What is underneath the cap on the carb itself for an adjustment screw? It can't all be in the limiter cap, can it?
> 
> I'll wait another day or two before I work on it. Make sure I understand this. Don't want to screw it up. Small parts easily broken...



On my 600p, I pulled the carb cover off so I could se what I was doing. Then there's a little rubber boot that goes through the case plastic that sits over the adjusters. Pinch that behind the plastic with some needle nose, and the rubber boot pulls out easy. Then you can see and get a screw in there. That metal plate started coming out with the limiter, so I just yanked it and it came out sorta sloppy. I think if I was to do it again I would use two screws simultaneously to pull the caps. Sorta hard to get that metal plate back in, had to re-bevel the inside a little with a sharp fine file then tap it round and round with a punch to seat it back in. I doubt you need it but I put it back in anyway. Maybe it will help with keeping a screwdriver on the screws if you are adjusting it while running.

Now I don't know if you really need all that back in there or not, but I put it back after richening it a little, which was a guess on my part, then cut the tabs on the limiters and mashed them back in there as well. Sorta stupid really, thanks EPA! Oh ya, push the rubber boot back in, might help keep some grunge out of there.

What I don't know is the stock setting to start from, no way to tell after the caps came out what with all the screwing in and yanking action. I tried to pay attention to where it was, but dang, I can't see that close anymore. Need to get a magnifier set of goggles or something...one of those adjustable big magnifiers so you can set it up and see the whole deal you are looking at. I've read various recommendations, one full turn out from seating, 1.5, whatever. No idea what the real one is. And I don't have a tach, and I know it came way too lean. And for that matter, even with a tach, what do you shoot for when they are new, then after say like ten tanks? I know I am not looking for maximum power, but maximum longevity with the engine. 

Just fries my grits that they can't ship them at a *real* correct setting. The manual has a howto adjust carb setting, great, you *can't* do it as shipped it is already as rich as the screw will go, so you *have* to pull the caps, voiding any warranty action.

Maybe there is an official echo tool to do this job, don't know.


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## RacerX (Feb 6, 2011)

Anyone have before and after photo's of these limiter caps?


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## Bret4207 (Feb 6, 2011)

On the little 330 I was playing with the screws lack the springs that "real" carbs have to hold the screws against vibration. I don't know that they'd move, but I plan on putting the caps back on since it's a customers saw.


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## max2cam (Feb 8, 2011)

I looked at my CS-510 again and it's still not clear how the limiter cap comes out. Unless I take the carb off I have to go through a small hole in the side of the crankcase to reach it. That would not be easy.

Also, the plastic screw/limiter cap is recessed into the metal part of the carb. Something must be hoIding it in otherwise it would vibrate out when the saw is running. So I'm wondering: How does it just pull out? There are some small holes next to the plastic screw (limiter cap) so I wonder if you have to line something up in order for the piece to pull out.

Anyone know? 

Until I understand it, I'm cautious about tearing into this thing. OTOH, I don't like running it at the high speed it's now turning. I'd hate to burn up another saw...


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