# Big maple slabbing



## huskyhank (Feb 12, 2010)

I let folks know that I'm interested in trees to mill. My friend Lester had this big old maple in his side yard. It had been topped to remove dead wood and was near the end of its life. Its just over 40 inches in diameter with three big branches left. Lots of rot started and as it turns out a bit of spalting in the big branches I milled this afternoon.

Today I went over to fall and start milling it. I was in a hurry and forgot my real camera so all I have is this phone camera picture made by my son while Lester and I discuss the falling.

I milled several nice crotches and limbs. (20" limbs!) Good looking stuff so far. Tomorrow we tackle the last two limbs and then the trunk. I won't forget the camera tomorrow.


http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125041&stc=1&d=1266023626


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## HorseShoeInFork (Feb 12, 2010)

Watch for a few "suprises" in there! Nice saw.


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## huskyhank (Feb 12, 2010)

We found some big grubs about as big as my index finger in one of the branches. No metal so far.


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## deeker (Feb 12, 2010)

huskyhank said:


> I let folks know that I'm interested in trees to mill. My friend Lester had this big old maple in his side yard. It had been topped to remove dead wood and was near the end of its life. Its just over 40 inches in diameter with three big branches left. Lots of rot started and as it turns out a bit of spalting in the big branches I milled this afternoon.
> 
> Today I went over to fall and start milling it. I was in a hurry and forgot my real camera so all I have is this phone camera picture made by my son while Lester and I discuss the falling.
> 
> ...




StihlHank, )) keep us up to date with pics and information.

Be careful and stay safe.

Kevin


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## BobL (Feb 12, 2010)

I'm certainly looking forward to seeing watcha got!


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## huskyhank (Feb 13, 2010)

Big day today - well big half day.

I got there after lunch and we started cutting......
Here's the stump and the second cut (first after the guide board cut).
















more to come after supper


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## gr8scott72 (Feb 13, 2010)

Looks like you'll need a bigger mill to mill that whole piece.


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## huskyhank (Feb 13, 2010)

I wished for a bigger mill today. I had to cut off some of the live edge - like a foot or more on the top end. I regretted that, but life goes on. I have a line on a 60" bar so maybe the next tree will get better treatment.

More pictures.

Here's the top end of the trunk.






We found some interesting things in the wood.
Several big grubs, here's one of them.






But this hurt.






Its a piece of metal adjustable shelf standard. Boogered a couple of teeth a little but I filed 'em back into shape. Lester dug it out with a chisel. Digging metal and sharpening added some time to the day!


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## huskyhank (Feb 13, 2010)

Here's the carcass that remains about half way through.






Slabs looked like this.






Stacked up in a pile.


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## huskyhank (Feb 13, 2010)

Another view of the pile.






I learned a few things today.

1) The 3120 is a great milling saw except for the exhaust. I gotta fix that.

2) When the wood gets bigger the 3120 gets better.

3) A respirator helps a lot but even better is a respirator and being upwind of the exhaust.

4) Milling a tree this big is a little like eating an elephant. 

5) A 40 inch tree is a lot more wood than a 30" tree.

6) Falling a tree with the top cut out when viewed against a featureless sky was worrisome. I could not see any indication of the tree moving while looking up. Never saw the upper part move. When the kerf started opening I moved out. I'm filing that for reference. 

7) I had it wedged with 3 wedges driven all the way in and wished I had some thicker ones. I will next time.


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## mtngun (Feb 13, 2010)

Great job, and some handsome slabs with lots of character.

Some of your pics didn't show up in post #8. 

I wish I had maple to mill, but you can keep the urban metal. 

Thanks for sharing.


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## 820wards (Feb 13, 2010)

Huskyman,

Nice maple slabs. Looks like that bigger bar would have been nice. How heavy were those big pieces? 

jerry-


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## BobL (Feb 14, 2010)

That's some nice looking slabs you have there HH. 



huskyhank said:


> 1) The 3120 is a great milling saw except for the exhaust. I gotta fix that.
> 2) When the wood gets bigger the 3120 gets better.
> 3) A respirator helps a lot but even better is a respirator and being upwind of the exhaust.


The exhaust is not just a problem for the 3120, it's a problem with all saws with a forward facing exhaust. The first big saw I used for milling was my 076 and just assumed all other big saws would be the same. But when I do use a forward exhaust facing saw for milling I get a headache after a couple of hours of use. The best modification I made to my 880 was the redirection of the exhaust. The exhaust direction can clearly be seen as the exhaust drives the sawdust away from the operator so the operator does not have to walk in an ever increasing pile of sawdust.







> 4) Milling a tree this big is a little like eating an elephant.
> 5) A 40 inch tree is a lot more wood than a 30" tree.



Yep , its only 33% wider but it's 77% more volume.


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## huskyhank (Feb 14, 2010)

820wards said:


> Huskyman,
> 
> Nice maple slabs. Looks like that bigger bar would have been nice. How heavy were those big pieces?
> 
> jerry-



Two man lift for sure. Maybe 200 pounds?


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## huskyhank (Feb 14, 2010)

BobL said:


> That's some nice looking slabs you have there HH.
> 
> 
> The exhaust is not just a problem for the 3120, it's a problem with all saws with a forward facing exhaust. The first big saw I used for milling was my 076 and just assumed all other big saws would be the same. But when I do use a forward exhaust facing saw for milling I get a headache after a couple of hours of use. The best modification I made to my 880 was the redirection of the exhaust. The exhaust direction can clearly be seen as the exhaust drives the sawdust away from the operator so the operator does not have to walk in an ever increasing pile of sawdust.



My 2100 has the jungle style muffler with louvers that directs the exhaust out the bottom of the saw. I never knew how lucky I was to have that. 

Modifying the 3120 muffler won't be that hard. The hang-up comes when its time to tune for the new pipe and its got a fixed high speed jet.


.


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## 820wards (Feb 14, 2010)

huskyhank said:


> My 2100 has the jungle style muffler with louvers that directs the exhaust out the bottom of the saw. I never knew how lucky I was to have that.
> 
> Modifying the 3120 muffler won't be that hard. The hang-up comes when its time to tune for the new pipe and its got a fixed high speed jet.
> 
> ...



I was also fortunate with the motor on my mill in that the exhaust port is on the bottom of motor. I was able to fabricate an exhaust pipe the exits out and away from the operator. I get no exhaust fumes at all when the mill is in operation. Doing a muffler mod to the newer front exhaust saw I would think is a must do.

Here is a picture of my exhaust pipe. I also just added a couple of thin wall stainless steel handle bars for moving the mill to and from the logs. It is much easier to handle now with two people.


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## BobL (Feb 14, 2010)

A backwards facing piston saw like the 076 and the way the Wards engine is oriented are ideal for CS mills.

A specifically ideally designed engine for a chainsaw mill would have a backwards facing piston, the carby on the top (cleaner location) and the exhaust underneath and the fuel tank on the side. Could be a good project?


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## gr8scott72 (Feb 14, 2010)

huskyhank said:


> 5) A 40 inch tree is a lot more wood than a 30" tree.



And a 54" tree in a lot more than a 40"!!
I just cut one more slab and had to trim the side again to get it to fit in my mill. (Max of about 53.5") 53.5" wide and 6' long took 2 full tanks on my 394xp on a freshly sharpened chain!!




huskyhank said:


> 7) I had it wedged with 3 wedges driven all the way in and wished I had some thicker ones. I will next time.



That's when I just send my monkey, er, I mean climber up the tree to put a rope in the top to be able to pull it over. 


Nice pictures and great slabs.


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## BobL (Feb 14, 2010)

820wards said:


> Here is a picture of my exhaust pipe. I also just added a couple of thin wall stainless steel handle bars for moving the mill to and from the logs. It is much easier to handle now with two people.



Jerry I just love your exhaust, except perhaps the way it sticks out like that worries me a little that someone could make contact with it. BTW how hot does the engine casing get 

Nicely made handles there, but IMHO it's increasingly looking like a two man operation? Maybe you have resigned yourself to that, but as a one man operator I would have gone for more of a wrap around handle like this.






As well as making it easier for one person to pick the mill/saw up this would provide the operator with something to hang onto and brace with, say the left hand, while starting the saw with the right hand. It would also act as bit of bumper bar for the saw in general. Also for moving any big mill/saw around I recommend removable wheels on the outboard ends of the mill rails, then a wrap around handle such as the one I have drawn would work as a one handed pickup/push/pull handle. These are just ideas coming out of the top of my head as I write - overall I reckon you have made a very well thought out mill.


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## 820wards (Feb 14, 2010)

*820 Operating Temperature*



BobL said:


> Jerry I just love your exhaust, except perhaps the way it sticks out like that worries me a little that someone could make contact with it. BTW how hot does the engine casing get
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> ...




** I was going to try having the thin wall SS tubing bent into a single piece, but it wasn't long enough to do it in one continuous bend. If I don't like the two separate handles I'll get more tubing and have a new handle bent. My other problem is finding someone around here who can mandrel bend 3/4"OD thin wall stainless steel tubing. 


** I have some Blue Oak at a ranch near me that was cut down by the local power company just before winter and the owner of the ranch was VERY upset that they cut the tree with out telling him. So my son and I went up there with the jeep and stacked the large pieces on some bigger limbs and painted the ends. I'm headed out this coming Wednesday to check on the how muddy that area is for getting the mill to the wood. When I mill it I will know how well the new handles work or not.

Some Blue Oak





Earlier in this thread I asked what the weight of those large slabs of maple weigh because I have no way of lifting/moving large slabs up on the side of a slight hill where I'll be milling. Right now I'm trying to keep my milled slabs at around 6' long so that two people can move them comfortably. 

I'll let you know how it goes.

jerry-


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## gr8scott72 (Feb 14, 2010)

820wards said:


> Earlier in this thread I asked what the weight of those large slabs of maple weigh because I have no way of lifting/moving large slabs up on the side of a slight hill where I'll be milling. Right now I'm trying to keep my milled slabs at around 6' long so that two people can move them comfortably.
> 
> I'll let you know how it goes.
> 
> jerry-



The slabs I told about are 53" at the widest and about 40" and the narrow spot by 6' long. (Red oak.) Cut just over 2" thick they are over 400 lbs and it is all I can do to just slide it off the log and rotate it on one corner and then the other corner to get it out of the way some. I think with 2 people, even those big slabs could be moved with a little elbow grease.


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## BobL (Feb 14, 2010)

820wards said:


> ** I was going to try having the thin wall SS tubing bent into a single piece, but it wasn't long enough to do it in one continuous bend. If I don't like the two separate handles I'll get more tubing and have a new handle bent. My other problem is finding someone around here who can mandrel bend 3/4"OD thin wall stainless steel tubing.


Yep I can appreciate that. Another alternative might be 1" x 1/8" ally although you will need a different fixing arrangement



> ** I have some Blue Oak at a ranch near me that was cut down by the local power company just before winter and the owner of the ranch was VERY upset that they cut the tree with out telling him. So my son and I went up there with the jeep and stacked the large pieces on some bigger limbs and painted the ends. I'm headed out this coming Wednesday to check on the how muddy that area is for getting the mill to the wood. When I mill it I will know how well the new handles work or not.
> 
> Earlier in this thread I asked what the weight of those large slabs of maple weigh because I have no way of lifting/moving large slabs up on the side of a slight hill where I'll be milling. Right now I'm trying to keep my milled slabs at around 6' long so that two people can move them comfortably.



When I don't have a forklift or loader handy I find a big sack trolley with decent pump up tyres enables me to move around big slabs. I have moved slabs with a density of 72 lb/cuft up to 9 x 3 ft by 2" (ie 300+ lbs) hardwood slab on my own using such a trolley

After cutting the slab I slide the slab off the log so that it is still leaning up against the side of the log. Hook the sack trolley under the slab and move it so one end of the trolley handles off teh ground with some blocks, so the slab is more or less level with the ground. Then I lift and maneuver the end of the slab onto the edge of the entrance to the van cargo bay and I use pieces of broom handle as rollers and lift and push the other end of the slab into the van. It should be much easier with two people.


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## 820wards (Feb 14, 2010)

gr8scott72 said:


> The slabs I told about are 53" at the widest and about 40" and the narrow spot by 6' long. (Red oak.) Cut just over 2" thick they are over 400 lbs and it is all I can do to just slide it off the log and rotate it on one corner and then the other corner to get it out of the way some. I think with 2 people, even those big slabs could be moved with a little elbow grease.




Does Red Oak have streaks of red or does the wood have an overall red hue?


WOW! Scott,

400lbs. is way more than I want to be lifting. I'm sure if that wood is still green it's every bit of that weight. Three of the places I will be milling this year have tractors for moving the slabs. It's the place I'm headed this next week that will be a problem. There is a tractor, but the hills where the logs are at it can't be taken there, too steep. I'm planning to take my jeep and use it to haul the mill into where the wood is, mill, and haul the wood out. This is going to be a real rodeo...

jerry-


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## 820wards (Feb 14, 2010)

BobL said:


> Yep I can appreciate that. Another alternative might be 1" x 1/8" ally although you will need a different fixing arrangement
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Bob,

I have a couple of old WWII US military trailer axles I could build something like you explained. A picture would be great if you have one I could base one off of.

With all that wood in your van I'll bet it looks like, as we call in the states, a real 'Low Rider' going down the road. 

jerry-


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## BobL (Feb 15, 2010)

820wards said:


> Bob,
> I have a couple of old WWII US military trailer axles I could build something like you explained. A picture would be great if you have one I could base one off of.



This is the sack trolley I have (it's rated for 200 lbs but I have lifted ~250 lbs with it) but is not the sack trolley I used to move the 300+ lb slabs with. That one lives at the yard and has larger wide (~6" wide) tyres (like you seek on bricklayers wheelbarrows) and a frame made out of 1.5" shs, It's not taller but it is a little wider than a conventional sack trolley, maybe 20" or so wide? 







I also though about putting a strap/winch arrangement like are used on fridge trolleys but I don't use a sack trolley all that often.

Here's a picture of when I moved an apricot log with the sack trolley - BTW that's my old van in that picture.







> With all that wood in your van I'll bet it looks like, as we call in the states, a real 'Low Rider' going down the road.
> jerry-


Even though the van is rated to carry ~3000 lbs (that's all my gear plus about 8, 300 lb slabs) the most slabs I have ever put in it is 8 small slabs. The heaviest load I have carried is 4 big slabs


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## huskyhank (Feb 15, 2010)

820wards said:


> Does Red Oak have streaks of red or does the wood have an overall red hue?
> 
> 
> WOW! Scott,
> ...



Red oak isn't really red, its maybe slightly reddish or pink.






What BobL is talking about is usually called a "hand truck" or "two wheeler" here in the U.S. We used one to move those maple slabs around. Since you have a jeep you might borrow or rent a small trailer to move your blue oak slabs up the hill. I'd think you could back down a pretty steep hill and drive straight back up without flipping. Same for a tractor - back straight down and drive back up.


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## BobL (Feb 15, 2010)

huskyhank said:


> What BobL is talking about is usually called a "hand truck" or "two wheeler" here in the U.S. We used one to move those maple slabs around.



That's it - we call them sack trolleys here.

The one I use to move the 300+ Lbs slabs is the same as this brickies trolley except the prongs are arranged to be level with the front edge of the trolley. 




They are used for lifting very large cookies, good for 600 lbs of bricks so it lifted a 300+ lbs slabs really easily.


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## Andrew96 (Feb 15, 2010)

You guys are talking about my world now. Many times I don't even get to drive that close to the trees (hike equipment in). Moving the slab back out is a real pain. I cannot always sucker friends to help..they are getting smarter. I use a fridge dolly since it's very strong..has a good strap already on it. These things are indestructible. I've slid a big slab onto it..used it as a skid to drag/winch the slab uphill with my truck to get it close enough for the trailer..rarely use it by hand. Lots of craziness on some projects. Chain on a piece of plywood has worked for me as well. You just land the slab on the ply, then tow it up. Sort like a toboggan for the slab. Get's there and is sort of clean. You can skid it right up the hills...then put the tow strap over your parked trailer and skid it right up into the trailer. You get the idea. I'd cut those logs in place on that hillside (cutting downhill of course), then worry about plank recovery..for me..the hardest part of the project. 

Jerry, very nice setup btw...as for bending a nice handle from one piece of tubing....make your own mandrel and bend it yourself. Many people forget you can make a one time use mandrel out of wood. I'd envision a 6" diameter hardwood circle (or whatever radius bend you choose) maybe 2" thick with a 3/4" round groove routered into the OD (or whatever your tubing OD is). With a C clamp at your start (tube underneath) you can heat that tubing up, bend it nicely into your hardwood mandrel and make a nice job of it. (make the middle bend first). Sorry, but my camera doesn't always go into the shop but I've bent lots of stuff up using my own hardwood mandrels. There will be smoke....but you'll still end up with a nice job. That long 3 bend handle...I think is ripe for a redneck bending job.


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## gr8scott72 (Feb 15, 2010)

huskyhank said:


> Red oak isn't really red, its maybe slightly reddish or pink.



Yeah, kind of pinkish red.


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## huskyhank (Feb 15, 2010)

gr8scott72 said:


> Yeah, kind of pinkish red.



Man oh man!

I bet your saw was groaning through that hunk of wood. Oak is hard and tough enough but add in that crotch figure and its like a rock.


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## gr8scott72 (Feb 15, 2010)

huskyhank said:


> Man oh man!
> 
> I bet your saw was groaning through that hunk of wood. Oak is hard and tough enough but add in that crotch figure and its like a rock.



That was a couple of slabs ago. I've gotten a little deeper in that log since then. It's gotten MUCH wider too. It's right at the max of the mill but the deeper I get, the wider it gets at the small point. The one I did yesterday took a FULL 2 tanks of fuel. It was over 30 minutes of solid cutting. I'm glad it started raining after that one because I really didn't feel like doing another and that gave me an excuse to go inside. lol

I was able to get the log up about a foot on one end after I cut that last slab so hopefully the next one won't be as hard.


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## JStrunk (Feb 15, 2010)

huskyhank said:


> I let folks know that I'm interested in trees to mill. My friend Lester had this big old maple in his side yard. It had been topped to remove dead wood and was near the end of its life. Its just over 40 inches in diameter with three big branches left. Lots of rot started and as it turns out a bit of spalting in the big branches I milled this afternoon.
> 
> Today I went over to fall and start milling it. I was in a hurry and forgot my real camera so all I have is this phone camera picture made by my son while Lester and I discuss the falling.
> 
> I milled several nice crotches and limbs. (20" limbs!) Good looking stuff so far. Tomorrow we tackle the last two limbs and then the trunk. I won't forget the camera tomorrow.



Where are you at in TN Hank? I am in Portland. There are about 5 maples in my neighbors yard waiting to be milled; they look a lot like yours... guess I better get to work :lifter:


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## BobL (Feb 15, 2010)

gr8scott72 said:


> The slabs I told about are 53" at the widest and about 40" and the narrow spot by 6' long. (Red oak.) Cut just over 2" thick they are over 400 lbs and it is all I can do to just slide it off the log and rotate it on one corner and then the other corner to get it out of the way some. I think with 2 people, even those big slabs could be moved with a little elbow grease.



I can't see how you get anywhere close to 400 lbs for that size.
If its 53" at one end and 40: at the other that's an average of 46.5" wide
Volume is then 46.5"/12 x 6' x 2"/12 = 3.875 cuft
The density of green red oak is at most about 50 lbs/cuft.
So that makes it about 200 lbs

Even if it was lemon scented gum (density of 71.8 lb/cuft) it would still only weigh 279 lbs. 



gr8scott72 said:


> That was a couple of slabs ago. I've gotten a little deeper in that log since then. It's gotten MUCH wider too. It's right at the max of the mill but the deeper I get, the wider it gets at the small point. The one I did yesterday took a FULL 2 tanks of fuel. It was over 30 minutes of solid cutting"


It sounds like either the wood is dirty or the chain is not set up right?
With a freshly sharpened chain I get about 36 sqft of cut (eg 9 x 4 ft) with one tank of fuel on the 880 in wood that will be as hard or harder than than red oak.
If I do not have a freshly sharpened chain for every cut I will need 1.5 - 2 tanks to cut the same area. Cutting with a less than freshly sharpened chain also places a significantly greater load on the engine, I can see the temperature increase significantly 20 up to 40F over my usual milling temp


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## gr8scott72 (Feb 15, 2010)

BobL said:


> I can't see how you get anywhere close to 400 lbs for that size.
> If its 53" at one eld and 40 at the other that's an average of 46.5" wide
> Volume is then 46.5"/12 x 6' x 2"/12 = 3.875 cuft
> The density of green red oak is at most about 50 lbs/cuft.
> ...



I'll take this to my thread to keep from derailing hank's thread. 

See here:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=118850


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## 820wards (Feb 16, 2010)

huskyhank said:


> Red oak isn't really red, its maybe slightly reddish or pink.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





Scott,

Does the wood keep it's pinkish color after it drys, or does it get more brownish hues? I'll bet it look good stained ind finished?

Here is a picture of the trailer I already have. It is made from an old Ford Courier bed with a 3/4 to trailer axle. I added the blue box for putting tools in. It has hauled everything. Not pretty, just very useful. That is my daughter Teneile peaking from behind the trailer. We were clearing Manzanita brush up at our place. I use the Jeep to pull the trailer all over the property. That is part of this past seasons burn pile we made.






I do have two axles I could built trailers from when needed. BobL threw me off with his definition of a two wheel hand truck.

Thanks for the info on the wood.
jerry-


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## 820wards (Feb 16, 2010)

Jerry, very nice setup btw...as for bending a nice handle from one piece of tubing....make your own mandrel and bend it yourself. Many people forget you can make a one time use mandrel out of wood. I'd envision a 6" diameter hardwood circle (or whatever radius bend you choose) maybe 2" thick with a 3/4" round groove routered into the OD (or whatever your tubing OD is). With a C clamp at your start (tube underneath) you can heat that tubing up, bend it nicely into your hardwood mandrel and make a nice job of it. (make the middle bend first). Sorry, but my camera doesn't always go into the shop but I've bent lots of stuff up using my own hardwood mandrels. There will be smoke....but you'll still end up with a nice job. That long 3 bend handle...I think is ripe for a redneck bending job.[/QUOTE]



Andrew,

That is a great idea. I have seen guys do roll bar bends that way when they didn't have a bender. If I can't find anyone who can bend 1" tubing, I'll have to give that a try if my two handles don't work out.

Thanks
jerry-


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## 820wards (Feb 16, 2010)

huskyhank said:


> Man oh man!
> 
> I bet your saw was groaning through that hunk of wood. Oak is hard and tough enough but add in that crotch figure and its like a rock.




I would love to try milling something like that. Beautiful wood Husky!

jerry-


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