# What's everyone using for their starting cut



## peter nap (Feb 7, 2008)

I'm using a plank with 2X2's screwed on the bottom. It works but is heavy, long and a PIA to attach to the log. I'm thinking about getting the aluminum rail in the Alaskan video but haven't priced them yet.

Just curious what everyone else uses.


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## Ironbark (Feb 7, 2008)

I screwed some 2x2s to the log like you, then laid an aluminium ladder on top and just used plastic clable ties around the rungs to secure it to the 2x2s. 

Seemed to work pretty well.


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## wdchuck (Feb 7, 2008)

2x10, overhangs the log ends by a foot or so, and shimmed to remain flat, nailed into log. It's not pretty, but works so far, I have a lot of logs coming my way this year, and will have to find a more efficient method, lots of ideas/pictures in past threads in this forum.


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## DRB (Feb 7, 2008)

I use a 2x10 14 feet long with angle iron screwed to the bottom. This makes for a nice straight first cut. Only problem is that it is way to heavy. I need to come up with something lighter. Although if I can't carry it to the log chances are I am not going to be able to carry slabs back to the truck.


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## dustytools (Feb 7, 2008)

I have a set of rails made from salvaged aluminum storefront frames and I also have an aluminum ladder for the long stuff. The home made set is 10' long and the ladder is about 20' long. I tried to post pictures but I get a message telling me that my pics sizes exceed the file size limit. Ill try to get the kids to show me how to make them smaller and post them again later.


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## Ironbark (Feb 7, 2008)

DRB said:


> I use a 2x10 14 feet long with angle iron screwed to the bottom.



That's a neat set up.


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## peter nap (Feb 7, 2008)

If you give me the link, I'll resize it and post it for you Dusty.


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## BobL (Feb 7, 2008)

This is my old setup:





The angle iron cross beams and all threads can be adjusted to suit the size of the log. I find the setup works very well but the main rails started bending after about 10 logs as the main rails were too thin.

The old rails have been replaced with galv steel unistrut. I have two 10' sets which can bolt them together to make a 17 ft set if needed, with 1.5 ft hanging over each end I can tackle up to 14' . Yes it's very heavy - I would not want to be carrying the combined rail for more than a hundred yards or so.


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## woodshop (Feb 7, 2008)

Litttle pricey (think around $75) but they do come with brackets to attach in many different situations, like a crotch end or a tapered log (first pic) where you want to slice parallel to the center of the log. The aluminum 2x6 comes in 5 ft sections that connect together seemlessly via internal expansion joints you tighten with an allen wrench.


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## dustytools (Feb 7, 2008)

Got 'em. View attachment 64484


View attachment 64485
The homemade rails attach to the log via the Granberg milling rail attachment pieces and the ladder just attaches with 2"X2" angle iron pieces which are 16" long.


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## hermit63 (Feb 9, 2008)

Im still using a plank w/2x4 scewwed into the edge, but i use a cordless drill and those beefy torx screws, the first cut aint so bad compared to squaring the cant, on bigger logs i beam machien the 90's, no rolling.


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## duffontap (Feb 9, 2008)

I'm using the $29 Granberg kit that you use with 2x4's. It's ok but you have to take your time setting it up because standard 2x4's aren't stiff enough to support your saw even on an 8' cut. You have to shim and secure the rails every 4' to get decent results. I was happy with the price of the kit but I want to adapt it to something better than a couple flimsy 2x4's. It is very light, however--and that's nice. 

J. D.


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## LarryTheCableGuy (Feb 9, 2008)

woodshop said:


> Litttle pricey (think around $75) but they do come with brackets to attach in many different situations, like a crotch end or a tapered log (first pic) where you want to slice parallel to the center of the log. The aluminum 2x6 comes in 5 ft sections that connect together seemlessly via internal expansion joints you tighten with an allen wrench.



That's not too pricey when compared to the Granberg EZ Rails plus it seems like it works slick & easy.

Where can those be purchased or who is the manufacturer?


Thanks!


.


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## dustytools (Feb 9, 2008)

duffontap said:


> I'm using the $29 Granberg kit that you use with 2x4's. It's ok but you have to take your time setting it up because standard 2x4's aren't stiff enough to support your saw even on an 8' cut. You have to shim and secure the rails every 4' to get decent results. I was happy with the price of the kit but I want to adapt it to something better than a couple flimsy 2x4's. It is very light, however--and that's nice.
> 
> J. D.



This is basically what my set-up is only I replaced the 2"X4"s with the aluminum frames. I made slots in the bottom leg of the ally frame for the connection to the Granberg piece.


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## artie__bc (Feb 9, 2008)

I use a piece of aluminum channel, about 8" web, 2 1/2" flanges, and 10 feet long. I seldom cut anything longer than that, so it works for me. Channel is a lot more stable on top of a log than a flat plank. I often don't need to use end boards at all.


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## woodshop (Feb 9, 2008)

LarryTheCableGuy said:


> That's not too pricey when compared to the Granberg EZ Rails plus it seems like it works slick & easy.
> Where can those be purchased or who is the manufacturer?.


Sorry for the misinformation, but I just checked on the Ripsaw site (ripsaw.com), and the compete kit with all the brackets for attaching to the log, including two 5 ft lengths of aluminum beam, is not $75 but $175. I seem to remember years ago that extra 5ft sections if you needed more than the two that come with a Ripsaw, were $75 a piece. 

So... although they work great, and they are easy and quick to attach to many different types of log configurations, they are indeed as I described them, pricey.


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## oldsaw (Feb 9, 2008)

Duff, upgrade to 2x6s, and you should be fine. 2x4s are too flimsy.

I use a 2x8x10, only because the 2x10s were all twisted up when I needed my first guide board. I've got an aluminum ladder all set up for one of these next times. Figure I can put some plywood or 2x8 braces on the ends or something. Still messing with the idea in my head. KISS engineering.

Mark


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## parrisw (Feb 10, 2008)

I just use a aluminum extension ladder, straped to the log with tie down straps, when you come up to a strap, take it off then move it behind the saw. Works really well.


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