# Haddon Lumbermaker Chainsaw Mill



## SawyerSatan (Nov 3, 2008)

http://cgi.ebay.com/HADDON-LUMBERMA...39:1|66:2|65:12|240:1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14


Does anyone have any experience with this?


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## slabmaster (Nov 3, 2008)

I've heard they are a pain to use.The mini mill is much more user-friendly.


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## Backwood (Nov 3, 2008)

slabmaster said:


> I've heard they are a pain to use.The mini mill is much more user-friendly.



:agree2:


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## redoak (Nov 3, 2008)

Looks a bit like the "Beam Machine" or as I like to call it, the BM. I think I could do as well free hand as with the BM. Way too much wiggle in the jig.

-redoak


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## excess650 (Nov 4, 2008)

SawyerSatan said:


> http://cgi.ebay.com/HADDON-LUMBERMA...39:1|66:2|65:12|240:1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with this?



I have one but have only made a couple of cuts with it. Unlike the beam machine, the guide IS adjustable for the width of your guide(2x4 or 2x6) via slots, and its really quite easy to use. The straightness of the cut is directly related to the straightness of the guide board.

Certainly, its not as accurate as an Alaskan mill, but for a guide that clamps onto the bar(can be bolted to the bar if you drill the bar) it works fine.


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## SawyerSatan (Nov 6, 2008)

so if i get an alaskan mill the haddon is useless? the haddon looks good for trimming the edge of a board.


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## excess650 (Nov 6, 2008)

SawyerSatan said:


> so if i get an alaskan mill the haddon is useless?



Not necessarily. It is possible to cut all four sides with an Alaskan, but it requires that the log be rolled at least once. With the Haddon, you can make the top cut with the Alaskan, attach your guide for the Haddon(or Granberg Mini Mill) and then make the side cuts. If the resultant board, beam, or cant isn't thicker than the Alaskan allows, you never have to roll the log.

You will need a powerful chainsaw with an Alaskan mill for wide widths. If you're not cutting more than 6" thickness, the Haddon will work well with even a 50cc saw.


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