# Remote D Log Cabin Milling help please.



## Beetlekilled (Nov 29, 2008)

I am researching methods to build a small, basic, hunting log cabin on my remote 200 acre property in Colorado. A cabin equal to my wall tent with regard to features or lack there of. The site is a 10,000 ft elevation with no power. My buddy wants to store his atv in it over the summer months.

I have searched this site for milling info and techniques and have concluded that milling with a chainsaw is slow and time consuming (but rewarding) and do know a guy with a hydraulic woodmizer (don't know what he charges, guessing 400/day) but would like to do it on my own over next summer. 

My plan is to build a small 10x12 horizontal D log cabin and mill the logs with a lumbermaker (like beam machine). Three cuts/faces on a 9 inch dia log tapering to 11 inch dia over 12 ft long could produce a 6 inch D log that two guys could move/stack. Use a hand drill to pilot hole for 10" spikes. Metal roof, loft ......

So do you guys have any recommendations or warnings with regard to milling 10 inch dia logs into 6 inch D logs? The cut should only be 6.5 to 8 inches on three sides for each D log. 5 min per 12 ft cut? I have a Makita 6401 and will buy a Dolmar 7900 chainsaw to mill with if I go forward with this on my own.

Would an Alaskan mill be a better choice for making these cuts or just stack some 12 ft logs and bring the Woodmizer in? Thanks in advance for any recommendations.


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## Texas Traveler (Nov 29, 2008)

Beetlekilled said:


> I am researching methods to build a small, basic, hunting log cabin on my remote 200 acre property in Colorado. A cabin equal to my wall tent with regard to features or lack there of. The site is a 10,000 ft elevation with no power. My buddy wants to store his atv in it over the summer months.
> 
> I have searched this site for milling info and techniques and have concluded that milling with a chainsaw is slow and time consuming (but rewarding) and do know a guy with a hydraulic woodmizer (don't know what he charges, guessing 400/day) but would like to do it on my own over next summer.
> 
> ...


 You have a job cutout for yourself good luck & watch working at 10,000 feet elevation.
GEEZE I remember the times stopping on a few summits to put chains on the tractor & trailer The times I had to rest doing it while my second driver stayed on the brakes. From Vail, loveland, wolfcreek to the million dollar highway.


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## deeker (Nov 29, 2008)

Beetlekilled, I would look into a small bandsaw mill. It is a lot faster and would cut those logs soooooo much faster it would save you time and breath.
We spent a lot of time (the last three years) working at 8500' to 9200' and it does slow things down a bit.

There are several small band mills powered by a chainsaw power head.
They can cut up to a 16" dia log, and it would hold its value for resale.

Good luck

Kevin


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## slabmaster (Nov 29, 2008)

If you don't want to foot the bill for a bandsaw mill, the alaskan is the best way to go.That's all i use.I made 4 8x8x12 beams today with mine out of ash.So you see it can be done.I run a 395 husky with mine.The advantage to useing the alaskan is portability.


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## Texas Traveler (Nov 29, 2008)

slabmaster said:


> If you don't want to foot the bill for a bandsaw mill, the alaskan is the best way to go.That's all i use.I made 4 8x8x12 beams today with mine out of ash.So you see it can be done.I run a 395 husky with mine.The advantage to useing the alaskan is portability.


 I can see him now with scuba gear on pushing the Alaskan mill.:greenchainsaw: 
The air gets pretty thin while working at 10,000 elevation


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## VT-Woodchuck (Nov 29, 2008)

Take look at the Logosol or Woodbug mills. I know a guy who built his house and barn out of logs milled 3-sided on the Logosol and I have the Woodbug. I think both are a step above the Alaskan or the mini-mill mills.


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## Backwoods (Nov 30, 2008)

Since I have the hydraulic bandmill, I have to say that it is by far the easiest way to go. There seems to be three ways that sawyers charge for there milling, by the day, by the hour and by the board foot. For a project like this the hourly rate may be your best bet (depending on what he charges by the hour) If you want to save money then you and your partner should offer to help by getting the logs ready and pulling the squared up logs and tailing off the mill. This will increase the production per hour considerably.


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## MotorSeven (Nov 30, 2008)

Why the taper? If it is a cabin, i would just slab off 2 sides, get some 1"x4" or 6" rolls of fiberglass insulation(Lowes/HD) for between the now flat logs, spike them down(no drilling) & do a butt & pass on the corners. The fiberglass compresses & it will be airtight. Keep it simple, but functional....jmho. 
What wood are you using, Pine? If so it will mill pretty easily compared to hardwood. 

RD


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## excess650 (Dec 3, 2008)

I milled some hemlock with my Alaskan and 272xp and 066BB. The 066BB just blasted through the hemlock in the size you are talking about. Make the top cut, drop the bar and make the bottom cut(parallel), and then use a mini mill to cut one side square.

You will lose power at that elevation, so bigger is better when it comes to displacement.:chainsawguy: The mini mill doesn't seem to need as much saw. Don't waste your $$ on a beam machine. The Haddon Lumbermaker is better, but still inferior to the Granberg mini mill.


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## cantcutter (Dec 4, 2008)

I build cabins like you describe. I don't think you will beable to do it with a CSM; they are too slow. The logs have to be assembled green as soon as they are milled. If you mill and try to airdry they will warp and twist and be useless. The only way to not assemble green is to kiln dry and that would not be an option based on your location. If you are set on doing it yourself get a small band mill. Otherwise hire it out to the mobile sawyer, providing he can get his mill into your location.


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## MJR (Dec 4, 2008)

With just one project like this I would go with the CSM and a vertical log design cabin or cord wood construction. Buy the rest of wood in town. I can not imagine working at 10,000 feet. The best of luck to you.


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## Metals406 (Dec 4, 2008)

How remote are we talking? How close is the nearest road/goat trail? Framing it with dimensional lumber, and siding it with d-log is always an option. Building materials are down right now.


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## Beetlekilled (Dec 4, 2008)

Thanks for all of the replies. At this point the idea of just two parallel faces and spiking the horizontal logs makes the most sense to me. I have looked into vertical log cabins, good for one guy, but as logs shrink, the vertical style will open up, horizontal will compress.

Here are some pics from the property to give an idea of the materials/timber I have to work with:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=1082694#post1082694 

I did cut one lodgepole high and then cut into the tall stump vertically and it was slow going (LGX chain not ripping chain). Not reassuring.

Everything takes longer at 10k ft even though I live at 6,400ft there is still a big difference. 3% power loss per 1,000ft on gas engines I have heard. Probably similar for us. You just need to slow down.

Kremmling is the nearest town, 7 miles and 2,600ft down so I could get standard building materials in but want to use whats on site as much as possible.

So for cutting two parallel faces on these lodgepoles, it seems that buying a bandsaw (Norwood 24) or hiring the local guy and his hydraulic Woodmizer seems like the way to go. May make the cabin bigger if the Woodmizer comes in. Just felling and hauling 1,500 ft of logs to the mill/building site will take a few days.

Any more ideas from you experienced guys out there are greatly appreciated. All I can do is plan for the next few months!


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## Metals406 (Dec 4, 2008)

I have experience building with logs, and Nordique Log Systems is probably the best way to build I have seen. It makes settling almost nonexistent, and I really like the look of the vertical logs in the walls.

*Web site:* http://nordiqueloghomes.com/b_system.html

*Their patent .pdf showing details:* http://nordiqueloghomes.com/1images/system/pat6363672.pdf

And they use dead standing lodgepole pine... Which seems to be a readily available species you have.


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## MotorSeven (Dec 4, 2008)

One more thing, those suckers are heavy. What are you going to have on site to move them around, set the wall logs and the rafters? A gin pole would be time consuming......something in the hydraulic family would be nice.

RD


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## cantcutter (Dec 5, 2008)

I haven't ever worked with lodge pole. If you can get one log out and take it to the mill have them cut three faces on it and then see how it reacts after sitting for a few weeks or months. If may not have much movement or it may have a lot. 

It looks like a nice site. I think if I didn't have a mill and had property like that I would ne tempted to get and adz and a broad ax and hand hew the faces into the logs... Thats just me though...


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## peterrum (Dec 6, 2008)

Nice project you have there. Based on what you have said I think it is doable and it is something that I would try myself. Take my CSM and the Alaskan and do it on site. You have a partner to help you move the logs after they have been cut. I would suggest that you could probably do 4 logs a day, so if you have the time, why not. Based on the size of the logs you have there why not go for some of the bigger ones and make your D logs 8, 10, or 12 inches wide. It would reduce your overall cuts with the CSM. Your logs would be heavier to move for sure, but with two guys you could probably do it with a little ingenuity and muscle. I look forward to seeing your results.

Good luck


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## redprospector (Dec 6, 2008)

Beetlekilled said:


> Thanks for all of the replies. At this point the idea of just two parallel faces and spiking the horizontal logs makes the most sense to me. I have looked into vertical log cabins, good for one guy, but as logs shrink, the vertical style will open up, horizontal will compress.
> 
> Here are some pics from the property to give an idea of the materials/timber I have to work with:
> 
> ...



If I had property like that I'd be looking at getting a band mill, or small circular saw mill. I have some real good friend's in Kremmling, and try to make it up to their "lumberjack" competition every year.(I missed this year. )
However you choose to mill them, what I've found to work good when stacking your walls is to use some 1" styerfoam insulation board between the log's. Seal's em up real nice. Keep your wall's plumb while you're stackiing, it's hard to go back and fix anything. If you're going to put any kind of cabinet's or shelving inside, I'd cut 3 sides (trust me).

Andy


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## busybeazz (Dec 7, 2008)

i agree with Andy the 1in blue board insulation is the ticket and that's exactly what i plan to do .I am in the process of building a vertical cabin actually I'm still milling my logs its a slow process ,harvesting milling and pealing treas but just imagine what u will end up with you built it . In my opinion that's more valuable then having some one else do the work .I no i will appreciate it more. 
MY cabin will be 24 x30 too story with the master up stairs and open to the great room .


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