# cutting down blow down



## Barnie (Nov 17, 2008)

how dangerous is it to cut in an area that has been blown down, most of the trees are Maple and are just bent over does this pose any other risks than the obvious. Do these trees snap as soon as the saw chain touches the tree.


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## Jacob J. (Nov 17, 2008)

They can, it all depends on how much pressure each individual stem is under, whether the root ball is still attached, how much of the roots are still in the ground, how long the wood has sat (blow-down that's been on the ground for a while and has rotted can be less or more dangerous, depending on a number of factors).


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## GASoline71 (Nov 17, 2008)

In a word... Yes.

Like Jacob said. Too many variables to determine what is "safe". But for the most part any tangled blowdowns are dangerous.

Gary


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## 056 kid (Nov 17, 2008)

Just be carefull!! face a bent over tree alittle at a time and you can get an idea on how much pressure its under by how it responds to the wood being removed. 




If not, one good blow will get you thinking alittle more!!



I got knocked out big time by a small hickory and have been more carefull and WAY more observant ever since!!


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## Spotted Owl (Nov 17, 2008)

If your not carefull it's dangerous enough to get ya killed. 

Look things over real good before you start, not just at what you are cutting either. Look at what is on, under, beside what you are cutting. There is a tremendouse amount of pent up energy in blow down. Release the tention as easy as possible. It may mean more cuts and more work but you stand a better chance of comming out unscathed. If they are on the ground, start at the tops and work your way down to the butt. This will release alot of limb tension and likely relieve stem tension as well. Look for any bends, traps and anything that makes you go HMMMM. Cut from up hill if possible.

Above all if your gonna do this be ready to move fast. For me that means, cat like reflexes and walrus like landings.


Be damn careful


owl


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## slowp (Nov 17, 2008)

What Spotted Owl said. He told me about alder. It was correct. I survived last blowdown season by looking at what I was going to cut very carefully, planning a little escape route or step back area, and drinking coffee to keep a little bit on the jumpy side. I had a couple of close calls, which if you survive you then call "learning experiences." I'm a lot better bucker now than a year ago. I just take my time, and try to figure out what is going to happen. You want to watch the rootwad, if there is one while cutting. His start from the top down works if you can reach it. A long bar is a good thing too. Not for power but for being able to stay farther away and even cut from behind another tree for a barrier. The maple around here seemed more stable than the alder and fir, and less likely to pop/barberchair. That's just what I have found from working in this location. I'm a beginner so listen to what they said.

I don't like the taste of coffee so I make mochas.


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## Philbert (Nov 17, 2008)

Like what they all said (above).

Think of the blown down trees as an inter-connected puzzle: when you cut one tree that is resting on another (or has another tree resting on it) you change the balance. You, or a partner, have to watch the other trees for movement while you cut.

Step back, look at the whole picture, and make one cut at a time until all of the trees are flat on the ground. I like to cut away a lot of the smaller branches first so that I can get a clearer view of the larger limbs and trunks. Also gives you better access.

If a tree has a curve bent into it, consider making a series of shallow, parallel cuts to relieve tension, instead of cutting into it until it snaps. 

And watch for uprooted stumps to fall back down into place, once they are separated from the trunk.

Philbert


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## hammerlogging (Nov 17, 2008)

I got knocked out big time by a small hickory and have been more carefull and WAY more observant ever since!![/QUOTE]

I remember a little 1" or so hickory spring pole that took me off the log i was limbing. Sent my saw 10' downhill, the hardhat (whose beak saved me big time) 20', and me about 35'. Damn hickory. Came to, crawled up to turn off the idling saw. Ol' Sam Skidder skidder driver came by, said, "hey, you just got it whacked, didn't you. Better sit down a while, I can tell you ( insert another story about good ol' mountain livin). That was early on, a "wake up call".

careful on the maple. With that lean barberchairing is a real possibility. If you don't give it a face, atleast a little undercut, than cut from the top down about 6" up the stem from your undercut. Cut fast, be ready to leap back. And start with an easy looking one.


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## Burvol (Nov 17, 2008)

Long bars are good in blowdown.


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## Bushler (Nov 17, 2008)

I like to start at the root wad and get that loose first, if I can. Be carefull, those spring loaded blowdowns can whack you like a pin ball flipper.


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## Spotted Owl (Nov 17, 2008)

Another thing. If your not comfortable don't do it. Get help.

There isn't a stick of wood on this planet that is worth anyones life.

Be safe, if not for your family, then for your creditors.


owl


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## Humptulips (Nov 18, 2008)

Pretty good advice. I'll just add to plan ahead. A jumble of blowdown usually has to be cut in the right order. Do it right and not too many scary moments. Do it wrong and you might be left with an impossible cut.


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## oldlogger66 (Nov 18, 2008)

*chain*

Make sure your chain is Razor Sharp !!!


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## oldlogger66 (Nov 18, 2008)

make sure your life insurance is paid up too...


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## slowp (Nov 18, 2008)

Humptulips said:


> Pretty good advice. I'll just add to plan ahead. A jumble of blowdown usually has to be cut in the right order. Do it right and not too many scary moments. Do it wrong and you might be left with an impossible cut.



This is the part I enjoy. Except sometimes I decide not to cut it unless I can get help. It is like playing Jenga, only they aren't in a nice stack. I have been asked to cut a maple blowdown that is across a road. Might see about it today if there are no "logging emergencies".


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## GASoline71 (Nov 18, 2008)

Bushler said:


> I like to start at the root wad and get that loose first, if I can. Be carefull, those spring loaded blowdowns can whack you like a pin ball flipper.



If it's possible (depending on situation) I like to do the same thing and get the root wad out of the way. A lot of times this is the main tension on a blown down spar... But like has been said over and over here... this is dangerouse too if ya don't know what yer doin'. I watched a guy literaly get his teeth knocked out by a big ol' Doug Fir wad... not a pretty sight...

Gary


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## SWE#Kipp (Nov 18, 2008)

This film is in Swedish but can give you an idea on how to approach blow downs 
http://www.skogforsk.se/KunskapDirekt/Templates/WMPage____18097.aspx


Be careful and stay safe in the woods


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## hammerlogging (Nov 18, 2008)

Pretty cool Swede. I like how ya'll take your profession seriously.

On another note, i always found it funny that my Norwegian as all heck grandmother didn't carre for swedes-- 4000 miles from the mother land nd your most similar neighbor--- ah, old grudges, carried it to her grave. Good thing I'm over it.

(Also note that even the swedes choose Stihl over their hometown orange ones)


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