# For those who doubt the power of the Dremel.....



## CaseyForrest (Sep 1, 2006)

I did this, 28" chain, took me all of 5, maybe 7 minutes to turn this into a Granberg style chain.







A picture of the ONE wheel I used to slice off the tops, and a new one sitting next to it. You can see almost no wear on the wheel I used.






Here is my weapon of choice. The flex shaft makes it real easy.







I know I still need to take care of the rakers. The clearing cutters are already .030. Just need to take the slicers down to .040 and itll be ready to go!


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## Adkpk (Sep 1, 2006)

You cut off the top plate, not grinded it off? Keep us posted on the rest of your progress. And of coarse give us the low down on the cut.


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## oldsaw (Sep 1, 2006)

I don't have those wheels, just the brittle little brown ones that wear out fast...but I have lots of them. Have to get some of those, going to try the same thing...one of these days.

Mark


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## computeruser (Sep 1, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> I did this, 28" chain, took me all of 5, maybe 7 minutes to turn this into a Granberg style chain.



Cut yourself on that cutter on the right? Looks kinda bloody...


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## olyman (Sep 1, 2006)

magic marker ill bet--the chains on my oly--there is no odd tooth--so--i mark one tooth with a red marker--so know where started---


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 1, 2006)

Yeah, thats just a marker tooth Brandon. That way I don't cut off the wrong tooth.

Adrpk, yes, I cut the tooth off, no grinding. I figured it would keep the heating of the metal up down to minimum, and probably be faster.

I was surprised that cut-off wheel didn't wear more than it did. I'm using that new quick change deal. The cut-off wheels are bigger, and supposed to last longer.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 1, 2006)

Mark, I have been wanting to do this for awhile. The only thing holding me back was hearing about how long it takes to modify the chain. Just cutting the tops off took maybe 5 seconds per tooth. This is one of the Ripping chains from Baileys. I tested on a short section of RS chain I had laying around, that took about 7 seconds to get through the top.

Im gonna test this one out, and if I notice any improvements, all my ripping chains will get the treatment.


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## woodshop (Sep 1, 2006)

Thanks for that info Casey, I was one of the doubters. I thought it would take a lot longer than 7 seconds to cut off a top plate, and from my past experience with my own Dremel, didn't think the little wheel would last long. My cutoff wheel didn't look exactly like the ones you have in the pic though. 

Let us know if it mills wood any better.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 1, 2006)

Woodshop, its a new type of wheel and mandrel from Dremel. No tools needed to change, and the wheels are bigger, and supposed to last 2 to 3 times longer.

I dont think the normal wheels would last very long. Based on past experiences with them, they either disintegrate, or wear down faster than you can count to 3.


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## woodshop (Sep 1, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> Woodshop, its a new type of wheel and mandrel from Dremel. No tools needed to change, and the wheels are bigger, and supposed to last 2 to 3 times longer.


... OK, something new to go out and buy... I love spending money in the shop:rockn:


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## oldsaw (Sep 1, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> Mark, I have been wanting to do this for awhile. The only thing holding me back was hearing about how long it takes to modify the chain. Just cutting the tops off took maybe 5 seconds per tooth. This is one of the Ripping chains from Baileys. I tested on a short section of RS chain I had laying around, that took about 7 seconds to get through the top.
> 
> Im gonna test this one out, and if I notice any improvements, all my ripping chains will get the treatment.



I want to know what you find out. PM me if you don't mind. 

You are right about the little discs, it would take about one disc per tooth, plus ones that shatter.

Mark


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## hautions11 (Sep 1, 2006)

*Chain*

Casey,

That looks awsome! I wanted to try that but the guys with grinders all want a bunch of $ to cut the tops off. Granberg chains are 3X of Baileys ripping chains. I do not understand your reference to 20 and 30 degrees though. My paper on granberg says 20 degrees on the scoring cutters and 0 degrees on the clearance cutters.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 1, 2006)

hautions11 said:


> Casey,
> 
> That looks awsome! I wanted to try that but the guys with grinders all want a bunch of $ to cut the tops off. Granberg chains are 3X of Baileys ripping chains. I do not understand your reference to 20 and 30 degrees though. My paper on granberg says 20 degrees on the scoring cutters and 0 degrees on the clearance cutters.



I think you are confusing my sharpening angles with raker depths. I run all my chains at .030 on the rakers, so all I have to do is take the scoring rakers down to .040, and the chain will be ready to go..


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## dustytools (Sep 1, 2006)

I wonder if dremel makes a sharpening attachment that you could use to regrind or sharpen the cutters with?


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## hautions11 (Sep 1, 2006)

*Grinding*

I got ya! After I looked at all the dimensions on Granbergs sketch I saw the heigths you were talking about. Looks great Casey. I can't wait to try it. I have some real thin wheels for my air motor. I may try that tonight!


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## Adkpk (Sep 1, 2006)

dustytools said:


> I wonder if dremel makes a sharpening attachment that you could use to regrind or sharpen the cutters with?


Yes, they do but it's nothing too fancy. I have one.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 1, 2006)

Adrpk said:


> Yes, they do but it's nothing too fancy. I have one.



Basically the same thing as the Stihl and Oregon electric sharpeners.


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## hautions11 (Sep 1, 2006)

*Air Motor*

I just went to the garage and tried my air motor on the chain to replicate the Granberg style cut. It worked Great! 4-5 seconds per cut. It left a burr that came off with finger preasure. I have a chain cut 0 degrees and 20 degrees just like Granberg, I'll remove the tops of the scoring cutters and see how it goes. This is way cool!!!!!!!!!!!


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## oldsaw (Sep 2, 2006)

hautions11 said:


> I just went to the garage and tried my air motor on the chain to replicate the Granberg style cut. It worked Great! 4-5 seconds per cut. It left a burr that came off with finger preasure. I have a chain cut 0 degrees and 20 degrees just like Granberg, I'll remove the tops of the scoring cutters and see how it goes. This is way cool!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> I've got one too, was worried a bit more about heat, but I guess that the cut isn't too much wider than the Dremel. Gives my little air compressor a workout.
> ...


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 3, 2006)

Wow, it looks like I may have started the latest AS ripping chain fad!:hmm3grin2orange: Unfortunately, I still haven't been able to put mine in wood yet. Got my saw back but something else reared it's ugly head.(<- that's me on the left) Story of my freakin' life. No milling in almost 2 months. The itch has flared into a rash and I aint got no arms to scratch it!:angry2:


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 3, 2006)

Well, did it to another chain this afternoon. 

Took a Stihl, RS 28" loop. Ill post a pic later of the same wheel I used on the first chain. It still looks like it hasnt worn any!!!

Anyway, that Stihl steel is a little harder, took about 6-7 seconds per tooth. After I got them cut off, took a diamond wheel for the Dremel, and cleaned and evened up the teeth. Probably took me all of 30 minutes to cut the tops off, grind them smooth and even, and sharpen the correct angles into each cutter. The rakers were already at .035, so I left them alone.

I wanted to mill some today, but ended up working on the playhouse. Tomorrow, I will finish milling the siding, and then its all done.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 3, 2006)

Aggie, whatcha got?


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## dustytools (Sep 3, 2006)

How did you go about regrinding the correct angles on the cutters Casey?


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 3, 2006)

Dusty, just a file. I dont ever grind. I file everything.


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## dustytools (Sep 3, 2006)

How long does it take to refile a tooth all the way to say 5 or 10 degrees from what ever your chain came with?


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 3, 2006)

I just give it 5 strokes. No need in fileing the entire cutter to whatever you are going to use it at. You are hitting the working part of the cutter initially, so I just go with it.


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## dustytools (Sep 3, 2006)

Cool,I was just wondering because ive got three new chains coming with my new saw and I would like to convert them to ripping chains simply because I dont have much other use for them right now because my other saws have 3/8 pitch chains. I ordered the saw with .404 pitch sprockets and chains because that is what I am set up with right now and just wanted to keep my ripping bars and chains the same for interchangability.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 3, 2006)

Lakeside recommends if you are going to take a normal chain and convert it to the granberg style, buy square ground because its ground at 15 degrees. Makes sense. The last one I did was a square ground I bought because I was going to give square a try. To much time to maintain.

I believe the best cutter scenario is going to be RM, or semi-chisel. I think round ground chisel, even filed at 20 and 0 respectively, will dull faster because there is still a distinctive corner.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 3, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> Aggie, whatcha got?




Just got my 084 back from Dean. I ran it for about 10 minutes to warm it up and as I was adjusting the carb the ignition lead burned through. It wasn't any thing he did, it was probably the origional lead and it's time was up. I've replaced the lead and I'm trying to get it dialed in again. I haven't made any cuts with it yet but it sounds like a deamon.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 3, 2006)

LOL....I read your post wrong!! Thought you had some kinda funk on your arms, and couldnt scratch it!!!!


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 3, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> LOL....I read your post wrong!! Thought you had some kinda funk on your arms, and couldnt scratch it!!!!



Now that's funny.


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## hautions11 (Sep 4, 2006)

*Rm*

Casey,

I am starting with some RM chain. What do you mean, even if you file 0 and 20 that there is an edge that will dull faster? Thanks.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 4, 2006)

Hautions, I was comparing RM to RS. I was saying, even though you are running short angles, the RS still has a pronounced working corner, and I think it will still dull faster than RM.


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## dustytools (Sep 4, 2006)

Can someone explain the difference between RM and RS chain to me?


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 4, 2006)

dustytools said:


> Can someone explain the difference between RM and RS chain to me?



Here ya' go.

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html

RM micro chisel
RS chisel


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## dustytools (Sep 4, 2006)

Wow, I didnt realize that there were so many different types of chain.Thanks aggie.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 4, 2006)

dustytools said:


> Wow, I didnt realize that there were so many different types of chain.Thanks aggie.



No problem, but that's just the begining.


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