# Need Advice on Setting Up an 075 for Milling



## matthewblckwd (Jun 12, 2009)

Hi, I just purchased a Stihl 075 that needs a little work and could use some advice as to how to best set it up to mill. I am planning on initially milling 12"-24" eastern cedar, pine, pecan, walnut and oak using a Logosol Timberjig, hopefully moving up to a n M5 or M7 as finances allow. Planning on using a 24" bar to start.

1. It has .404 on it now(sprocket, have no bar as yet), would 3/8 pitch be better?

2. If so should I use an 8 tooth sprocket or go to 9 or 10 to up chain speed?

3. What about the PMX chain that logosol offers, could it work on this saw?

4.Never having done this (milling) any other advice would be much appreciated.

Thank you to all,
Matthew


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## MotorSeven (Jun 12, 2009)

There are some here that mill with 404, I am sure they will chime in. I think an 8 tooth sprocket is fine. Can't answer about the PMX chain but there are several ripping chain options out there. Proper angle and sharpness are a must for milling. I would get a tach and when your saw is ready to go, tune it down some for milling.
An 075 is a beast and should cut very well in a milling set up. Cedar, pine, pecan and walnut will go the easiest with oak slowing you down some. A 24" bar is pretty short becasue you loose several inches at each end. You might want to consider a longer one since you haven't purchased it yet because it gives you more flexability on the log size. 

Pic's???

RD


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## texx (Jun 12, 2009)

some 075 saws only had a manual oiler better check that


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## BobL (Jun 13, 2009)

matthewblckwd said:


> Hi, I just purchased a Stihl 075 that needs a little work and could use some advice as to how to best set it up to mill. I am planning on initially milling 12"-24" eastern cedar, pine, pecan, walnut and oak using a Logosol Timberjig, hopefully moving up to a n M5 or M7 as finances allow. Planning on using a 24" bar to start.


I'd be looking at a 36" bar - the would give you a 30-32" cut. A 24" bar would only give you 18-20"




> 1. It has .404 on it now(sprocket, have no bar as yet), would 3/8 pitch be better?


Yep



> 2. If so should I use an 8 tooth sprocket or go to 9 or 10 to up chain speed?


I'd start with 8 on a 36" bar



> 3. What about the PMX chain that logosol offers, could it work on this saw?


Yes but I would go for semi chisel 3/8 to start with and see how you go.



> 4.Never having done this (milling) any other advice would be much appreciated.


I suggest reading the sticky.


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## Brmorgan (Jun 13, 2009)

MotorSeven, I believe that the TimberJig he's using only attaches to the bar at the powerhead end and the tip floats free. In this case I wouldn't recommend going too far past 24" length due to bar sag.

I run .404 8-pin on my 090 simply because it's the easiest way to get the chain speed up as high as I can right now, and I only use it for big and dirty logs where cutter durability is an issue. I'm thinking an 075 _should_ pull a 9-pin 3/8 fairly well on anything below maybe 30", but it would also depend on the hardness of the wood - so probably yes for the pine/cedar and other softwoods, but probably not a great idea for the hardwoods. Trial and error is the best way to find out though.


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## Trever (Jun 14, 2009)

*075/ 076*

Bob pretty much answered how I have mine set up. I run a 44" Double Ender GB mill, 36" roller tip using 3/8 (.063) ripping chain from Bailey's. I run 8 pin sprocket on it; softwood and hardwood. I anchor the roller tip with a 3/8 stainless bolt with lock nuts. Use the nuts to level out the bar tip and anchor it of course. I will dig it out this week and take pictures. Also, I cut most of the the clutch cover off so I don't have chips, noodles, etc. bogging down the saw. I really like the 075/076s. I have two of them, and someday plan on getting a 66" double bar and 66" rails to run them both. They are not high reving saws, but will bull their way through any wood. Make sure you set the carb's high side about 800 rpm below maximum rpm. Hope this helps, and hope you have a blessed day.

Trever


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## beaveradict (Jun 15, 2009)

*why would you turn down the rpms on a saw*

sorry I'm new into milling and have many questions about riping chain vs. standard chain full comp so guy I'm here to pull life experence from you


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## Trever (Jun 15, 2009)

*RPMs*

You milling saws are worked alot harder than your felling and bucking saws. Turning down the full throttle (high) rpms will provide more lubrication to the cylinder and piston. I run 40:1 in all my stuff except the Homelite (32:1). I hope this helps. Have a blessed day.

Trever


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## ShoerFast (Jun 15, 2009)

beaveradict said:


> *why would you turn down the rpms on a saw*
> sorry I'm new into milling and have many questions about riping chain vs. standard chain full comp so guy I'm here to pull life experence from you



Two cycles run slower as you approach a rich condition. 

Turning the 'H' screw out makes the saw run fat (rich), fat runs cooler. 

Milling is hard work for any saw, constant load that brings the RPM's down. Lower RPM's also reduces the air off the fly-wheel for cooling. 

Running fat is a happy milling saw. 

Running a very pronounced 'burble' (some call it 4-cycling as the sound is similar) when the saw is out of the wood, that clears up as the saw is under a heavy load is a good place to start. 

Check the plug, you want a more brown then tan plug, fouling the plug will set you back what? couple bucks?. The richer you run the longer the engine will last. 

Better the plug then the jug.​


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## woodsrunner (Jun 15, 2009)

ShoerFast said:


> Running fat is a happy milling saw.
> 
> 
> 
> Better the plug then the jug.​





I like those 2 "quotes".

Scott


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## BlueRider (Jun 16, 2009)

I mill with an 075 and a 42" bar running .404 with an 8 pin sprocket. this set up has plenty of power in hardwood. In calculating chain speed pitch is a factor, ie. the same saw running 404 with an 8 pin will have a faster chain speed than the same saw running 3/8 with an 8 pin. if you decide to switch to 3/8 pitch you will need to also swith to a 9 pin or you will cancel out any speed advantage of the narrower kerf with a slower chain speed. With a 24" bar you could probably run a 10 pin but you will have a hard time finding it, try Madsens saw shop.

All 075's have an automatic oiler. some also have a manual oiler which supliments the automatic oiler.S

The carbs on the 075's have a rev limiter. At a preset rpm a valve opens up and dumps fuel into the mix to richen it up and keep it from over reving. some guys will pull the valve and place a small piece of a coke can under it and reinstall it. It looks stock but the saw will now run faster and this is not a good thing for the average milling saw. To learn the ins and outs of the carrb do a Google search for Tillotson and go to their web site there is a PDF manual you can down load.


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## BlueRider (Jun 16, 2009)

I have been running 50:1 while milling with my saws since 1994 with no ploblems. The notion of needing to run 40:1 when millind is a myth. just use a high quallity full synthetic oil such as Stihl HP Ultra.


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## BobL (Jun 16, 2009)

BlueRider said:


> I have been running 50:1 while milling with my saws since 1994 with no ploblems. The notion of needing to run 40:1 when millind is a myth. just use a high quallity full synthetic oil such as Stihl HP Ultra.



The 076 manual says 40:1 (normal operation) which is why I use it, with regular stihl lube. That was probably written pre the ultra being available. I have about 1/2 gallon left of regular stihl lube - when I finish that I will be switching to synthetic.


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## beaveradict (Jun 16, 2009)

Thanks for the info i richined up the high end today before using it and you guys know what your talking about my saw ran much cooler. My saw is an old mid 80'S Homelite 360 professional trying to save it as long as i can. Been milling 16"red oak and its been slow going still working in the tooth angle. One other question should i file off some of the rake to get more bite.


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## matthewblckwd (Jun 16, 2009)

Just wanted to thank everyone for their help. It is much appreciated. I have an addittional question which is also posted in the chainsaw section. Can I use a muffler from a Stihl 051 on my Stihl 075 or is it more restrictive?
Thanks again, 
Matthew


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## Brmorgan (Jun 17, 2009)

Even if it is more restrictive, that's an easy fix! I recommend opening up the muffler of just about any milling saw a bit anyway - more power and cooler operation.


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## BlueRider (Jun 19, 2009)

matthewblckwd said:


> Just wanted to thank everyone for their help. It is much appreciated. I have an addittional question which is also posted in the chainsaw section. Can I use a muffler from a Stihl 051 on my Stihl 075 or is it more restrictive?
> Thanks again,
> Matthew



It depends on which jug you have on your 075. There is a jug that I think is actually for an 076 or possibly even and 076 super and has larger intake and exhaust ports and it uses a muffler and intake block that are not interchangeable with an 051. Not sure if there were ever any 075's made with the larger port cylinders and even so sometimes it is almost impossable to tell the difference between an 075/076. the new jugs you can currently get from Stihl that are for an 076/ts760 are the ones with the larger ports.


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## BlueRider (Jun 19, 2009)

BobL said:


> The 076 manual says 40:1 (normal operation) which is why I use it, with regular stihl lube. That was probably written pre the ultra being available. I have about 1/2 gallon left of regular stihl lube - when I finish that I will be switching to synthetic.



As usual you ae 100% correct. the manual for my oldest 051 recomended 32:1 mix. Years ago I had a long phone conversation with a gold trained stihl tech and he explaind why I can run full synthetic mix at 50:1. I can now say from experiance that he was right.


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## BobL (Jun 19, 2009)

BlueRider said:


> As usual you ae 100% correct. the manual for my oldest 051 recomended 32:1 mix. Years ago I had a long phone conversation with a gold trained stihl tech and he explaind why I can run full synthetic mix at 50:1. I can now say from experiance that he was right.



Cheers BR, you can't argue with 15 years of experience! I will have to get hold of some of that lube, it's not available around here but apparently there are some motorcycle stores that have fully synthetic stuff for MBikes that I can use instead. Given that I know what is in 2 stroke lube and that it is not good for you I want to run the least amount I can without compromising the saw.



Brmorgan said:


> Even if it is more restrictive, that's an easy fix! I recommend opening up the muffler of just about any milling saw a bit anyway - more power and cooler operation.


This is correct up to a point, after that on some saws, UNLESS you retune the carby you could damage your engine. Opening up the muffler too much can cause the saw to run too lean and overheat. I just wanted to put that proviso in there in case some eager beaver really went to town on a muffler mod and messed up his saw! Some saws do not have enough range in their carby adjustment to handle a significant muffler mod and will need rejetting.


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