# Ross Bandmill ( New & Improved?)



## TMAR (May 8, 2010)

Anyone here have experience with a Ross Bandmill? Can't find anything about 'em on the net. I did some improvements (IMHO) to one I picked up, but the blades keep snapping in the gullets. On inspection there are a number of cracks started -new Lennox blades (not in the pic).This is getting kinda discouraging. I have no way to check the tension other than by sound. There are no guides at all. I have to believe that the mill did work right at some time. 
The blades are 7' 5.5" x1"

I rebuilt the Ross to use on my '06 Procut


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## mtngun (May 8, 2010)

I can't help you with the broken blades, but just want to say thanks for posting the pics of your pro-cut conversion. 

I hope you get it sorted out.

Those are some serious bandwheels.


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## robertjinnes (May 8, 2010)

*gullet cracks*

It looks like the band wheels are a small diameter. possibly in the 16-18 inch range. Larger is always better. If this is an old blade as it appears to be, we have no way to know how many hours it has been run. Is there leather or rubber on the wheels or is the blade running directly on the cast iron? GOOD LUCK. Definutely a heavy duty machine.


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## TMAR (May 8, 2010)

The wheels are 12". The blade in the pics had been on there for at least 20 years sitting in the weather, yet it lasted longer than the new Lenox blades did when cutting. No tires on wheels- metal to metal


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## redprospector (May 8, 2010)

Without any guides, blades will break before their time. But usually they will crack in the back of the blade.
Cracking in the gullets can be a lot of things from running a dull blade too long, to improper sharpening. Since you said they were new I'll take a wild guess and say maybe too much tension, and running them a little longer than they should have been run. A dull tooth get's a lot of pressure put on it, and will literally tear a blade apart.

Andy


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## HUCKLEBERRY (May 8, 2010)

*Trailblazer*

Thanks for posting pics of the project. I'm in the final stages of a procut style build and after I get a bigger powerhead for it and some "miles under the wheels" I'd like to start looking at some bandmill options. Good luck and keep us posted.


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## Sawyer Rob (May 9, 2010)

I don't think you can expect long band life out of a BSM that has 12" wheels and no guides. Mostly it's the 12" wheels that's hard on bands. After that, you have to sharpen the bands "properly", or the band will get lots of cracks and soon break.

Rob


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## Old Hilly (May 9, 2010)

Just an observation but.....is that blade on the right way round? From the look of those wheels they could have been off a metal-cutting bandsaw, the ridge on the back of the wheel is the clue that makes me wonder. Metal cutting saws turn slowly and because of their design the wheels seem to be flat (no crown) and they have no rubber tyre for the blade to run on. On a horizontal metal-cutting saw there is a twist in the blade so that the blade will cut without the housing fouling the material being cut.
From what I can see of that saw the blade should face the other way, that is with the teeth away from that ridge on the wheel. That way when the blade wants to move back on the pulley under load the back of the blade will ride on the lip on the wheel and not fall off the pulley, just like it would have if it were a metal-cutting saw. At the moment, without blade guides to keep things in place, the blade can just walk off the back of the wheels unless there is extreme tension on the blade and that reduces band life, especially on small wheels.
A 12" pulley is a bit small for a fast-turning wood saw but OK for a slow turning metal saw. I think "Cooks" recomend 19" as an absolute minimum diameter for their 1&1/4" blades.
Oh, I forgot...silly me. The teeth of the blade need to be clear of the bandwheel otherwise you will stuff-up the "set" of the teeth and the blade won't cut worth a..:censored:...oh dear, all the OZ terms for that are a bit rude and I have no idea of the polite US equivalent terms .
I know, won't cut worth a pinch of sawdust. That's it. Sawdust...
Apart from all the above, mate, you done good! You are a lot farther in front than I am with your building and things look pretty good.
Dennis.


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## TMAR (May 9, 2010)

*Thanks for all the replies!*

Yes, the blade is on right- the ridge is on the back side of the blade. There are also ridges for the blade tooth set to ride over. The mill cuts in the direction that the blade is on in the pic. 







Here is a video I found on youtube of what the original mill looked like:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDtue9YE8fs


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## TMAR (May 9, 2010)

Photo didn't come thru in previous post...


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## redprospector (May 9, 2010)

That ridge is being used as a guide. 12" wheels aren't as big a problem with a 1" blade as they are with a 1 1/4" or over blade, but they're still not optimal. Look at Cook's saw for guides if you want to put some on.

Andy


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## Old Hilly (May 10, 2010)

Well, these old eyes ain't what they used to be! Now that you point it out I can see the ridge on the pulley. It's an interesting wheel design, more complex than anything I have read about or seen. 
All that..:censored:.. worry for nothing.
Does the drive belt run on the bandwheel or on another v-belt pulley?
It looks a good bit of gear.
Dennis.


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## olyman (May 10, 2010)

redprospector said:


> Without any guides, blades will break before their time. But usually they will crack in the back of the blade.
> Cracking in the gullets can be a lot of things from running a dull blade too long, to improper sharpening. Since you said they were new I'll take a wild guess and say maybe too much tension, and running them a little longer than they should have been run. A dull tooth get's a lot of pressure put on it, and will literally tear a blade apart.
> 
> Andy



x's 2--the teeth are being "bent" each time they go on the wheel--leading to cracking--need to get a rubber face on the wheels somehow--as the wheel is also dulling the teeth--


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## redprospector (May 10, 2010)

olyman said:


> x's 2--the teeth are being "bent" each time they go on the wheel--leading to cracking--need to get a rubber face on the wheels somehow--as the wheel is also dulling the teeth--



Yep.
I do know that if you're hoss enough a section cut out of a truck (semi) innertube can be stretched over a 12" wheel. 

Andy


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## Hillbilly3995 (May 22, 2010)

redprospector said:


> Yep.
> I do know that if you're hoss enough a section cut out of a truck (semi) innertube can be stretched over a 12" wheel.
> 
> Andy



And you might temporarily weaken its resolve with a swim in boiling water...


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## BobL (May 22, 2010)

That looks like some good work on that conversion. It will be good to see the old girl running again after being out of action for so long.


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## DaltonPaull (May 23, 2010)

I have a Ripsaw portable bandmill that also has very small wheels. The blades it uses are made from very thin material and I think this is partly to help reduce fatiguing and cracking. You might want to measure the thickness of the old blade compared to the new blades and consider trying thinner blades. I believe the Ripsaw blades are about .023.


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## TMAR (May 25, 2010)

*Still running the 385 for now*

I'm putting this on hold 'til I can get some more blades. I'll buy ten to get a better deal and then put her to the test again. What little sawing I did get done with the band saw- I would say that the 385 with its 5/16 kerf is much faster, straighter, and more reliable. Band saw sure would be cheaper on the gas and oil!!! Thanks for all the replies.! I'll let you know how things turn out when I get back on it.


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## scottr (May 27, 2010)

TMAR said:


> Anyone here have experience with a Ross Bandmill? Can't find anything about 'em on the net. I did some improvements (IMHO) to one I picked up, but the blades keep snapping in the gullets. On inspection there are a number of cracks started -new Lennox blades (not in the pic).This is getting kinda discouraging. I have no way to check the tension other than by sound. There are no guides at all. I have to believe that the mill did work right at some time.
> The blades are 7' 5.5" x1"
> 
> I rebuilt the Ross to use on my '06 Procut



TMAR, if you'll search outback industries you'll find that they bought the Ross Mill and a few years ago were still building them. If I remember correctly they came with 16" bandwheels.


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## doleth (Dec 22, 2010)

*Ross Bandmill*



TMAR said:


> Anyone here have experience with a Ross Bandmill? Can't find anything about 'em on the net. I did some improvements (IMHO) to one I picked up, but the blades keep snapping in the gullets. On inspection there are a number of cracks started -new Lennox blades (not in the pic).This is getting kinda discouraging. I have no way to check the tension other than by sound. There are no guides at all. I have to believe that the mill did work right at some time.
> The blades are 7' 5.5" x1"
> 
> I rebuilt the Ross to use on my '06 Procut



I purchased one new in 1996, from Mr Ross. 
It's still in use as of now, Ive done a few things to it I think were improvements. The inherent problem with this unit is blade longevity or lack of. 
I don't know how old your post is or if your still interested in any info I may have. If so give me a shout.
Leo


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## qbilder (Dec 22, 2010)

Old Hilly said:


> Oh, I forgot...silly me. The teeth of the blade need to be clear of the bandwheel otherwise you will stuff-up the "set" of the teeth and the blade won't cut worth a..:censored:...




This is the culprit. If the set is gone, the blade gets pinched inside the cut and stresses it to breaking. 

Your wheels look like resaw wheels intended for 3"+ wide blades. I'd assume this means your saw is a resaw for cutting cants into dimensioned lumber & NOT designed for cutting raw logs into lumber. With a resaw, the blades last much, much longer and cut incredibly smooth & straight. But they also are very expensive. They're much too expensive to be used for cutting raw logs that have dirt, metal, rocks, grit, debris, etc. in the bark. That's a job for typical band mills. Your saw is designed to cut already squared & clean cants. My suggestion would be either fit your saw with correct blades & use it for it's intended purpose, or else retrofit it with some 19" band wheels so you can use 1.25" typical sawmill blades.


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