# Generator size to run 1hp Supersplitter



## 3fordasho (Mar 7, 2012)

I finally pulled the trigger on the Supersplitter and went with the 1hp electric motor for power. 50% of my splitting is at home and 50% at the woodlot. The plan was to pick up a generator for at the wood lot (other uses for it too) It's not real clear just how much wattage is required for starting a 1hp motor, the run wattage is well known ~1200-1500 watts but starting wattage can be anywhere from 3x to 6x that or more. Anyone have any real world experience running a true 1hp single phase motor with a generator? I was looking at a 3000w continous, 3750w peak unit but am really wondering if that is big enough?


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## sam-tip (Mar 7, 2012)

From a honda page a 1 hp air compressor takes about 4500 watts at startup. But what voltage is the 1 hp super split. 110 or 220 volt? 

But a 1 hp capacitor motor requires less. I would go with the higher. A 6500is would do it at either voltage. A 6500is honda will cost more than the splitter. About $3K with shipping. From these numbers I would assume the splitter is 220 volts. 



Honda Generators - Wattage estimation guide


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## 3fordasho (Mar 7, 2012)

sam-tip said:


> From a honda page a 1 hp air compressor takes about 4500 watts at startup. But what voltage is the 1 hp super split. 110 or 220 volt?
> 
> But a 1 hp capacitor motor requires less. I would go with the higher. A 6500is would do it at either voltage. A 6500is honda will cost more than the splitter. About $3K with shipping. From these numbers I would assume the splitter is 220 volts.





The motor can be set up for 110v or 220v. Just a matter of how it's wired. The wattage requirement does not change however, the amp draw drops 50% at 220v vs 110v. The confusing thing is starting power requirments are all over the place. If I need a $3k generator I'll need to change my SuperSplit order to a gas motor. I was looking at $350 -3750W max or a $500 - 6000w max type generators at Menards. Coleman powermates.

FWIW I believe the motor on the SS would be a capacitor start motor, can't be a split phase.

A 1hp motor only requires max 1500w ONCE it is running. The question is - will the start up kill a 3750W max watt rated generator?


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## zogger (Mar 7, 2012)

Who made the electric motor? Call them up (have all the specs off the plate handy), talk to some engineer there, they will know exactly.


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## 1grnlwn (Mar 7, 2012)

All I know is my 5000W generator will not start my 110V piston air compressor. I think it depends on the load on the electric motor when starting, compressors have a load even at start. Hyd pump probably has less load but I am not sure what happens when it is real cold. I always had the feeling that if I wired the compressor for 220 it would probably start. IDK


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## timbrjackrussel (Mar 7, 2012)

Watch out, some of the brushless generators don't put out a perfect sinewave. Inverter generators are more expensive but can save you in fuel costs as opposed to a brush type generator running at a constant speed(3600RPM)


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## upsnake (Mar 7, 2012)

Wattage Calculator

Electric Motors..............................Rated ....Surge Watts
1/6 HP Motor................................300....	850
1/4 HP Motor................................400....	1150
1/3 HP Motor................................475....	1325
1/2 HP Motor................................650....	1800
3/4 HP Motor................................900....	2500
1 HP Motor...................................1000....	2800
1-1/2 HP Motor.............................1700....	4800
2 HP Motor...................................2000....	5900
3 HP Motor...................................3200....	9000
5 HP Motor	...................................5000....	13750


I would assume you would probably have to wire the motor to be 220, as 2800 watts is 23.33 amp on 120. I doubt the genny would have that big of a plug for 120.
The 5500 watt genny i have, has a couple of standard 15 amp 120 plugs. A four prong 20 amp 120, and a four prong 30 amp 220. 

A 3750 genny should have 17 amp at 220. The motor would only need 11.5 amps on 220 so i would think you would be ok. (using the assumptions from the website above of course)


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## mesupra (Mar 7, 2012)

I can run my 3/4 well pump wired 220v off my 4400 watt (4000 constant) cheap ass Homelight generator with 8hp Briggs. I would assume anything around a 4000 or above should be good. Most 4000 have a 220 outlet as well which is handy when connecting to your home.


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## hardy steve (Mar 7, 2012)

I use a 1000 Yamaha to run a 3/4 hp ice eater .It draws about 10 amps.I would check amperage. I run a electric wheelbarrow compressor on a 2500wt home lite.No extinction cords though wont pull thru it,but I'm not sure of its draw.


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## Duane(Pa) (Mar 7, 2012)

Is the SS direct drive off the motor? Lot of inertia to get the flywheels spooled up. I have been wondering the same thing. I love the sound of my saws, not so, the small four stroke BS type engines. Have you posed the question to SS factory?


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## 3fordasho (Mar 7, 2012)

Duane(Pa) said:


> Is the SS direct drive off the motor? Lot of inertia to get the flywheels spooled up. I have been wondering the same thing. I love the sound of my saws, not so, the small four stroke BS type engines. Have you posed the question to SS factory?





My understanding is the 1725 rpm motor drives through belt and pullys to achieve ~300 rpm at the flywheels. I have asked SS for the info off the motor plate. I think I'll wait on the genny until I have the SS and can measure actual amp draw on start up.


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## dave_dj1 (Mar 8, 2012)

Personally I wouldn't waste a cent on one of those cheap generators! Spend a little more and get a name brand that is proven and has a dealer to stand behind it. why not just get the SS with a gas motor?


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## 3fordasho (Mar 8, 2012)

dave_dj1 said:


> Personally I wouldn't waste a cent on one of those cheap generators! Spend a little more and get a name brand that is proven and has a dealer to stand behind it. why not just get the SS with a gas motor?




I'm looking for something with at least a Honda motor. I do about 1/2 my splitting at home where there is plenty of 110/220v power. In the winter it's done in the garage with closed doors.. tired of the noise and gas fumes. Get my fill of that with the chainsaws. At the wood lot I'll still have some noise from the genny but a quailty extension cord I can get that 50' or so away.


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## zogger (Mar 8, 2012)

3fordasho said:


> I'm looking for something with at least a Honda motor. I do about 1/2 my splitting at home where there is plenty of 110/220v power. In the winter it's done in the garage with closed doors.. tired of the noise and gas fumes. Get my fill of that with the chainsaws. At the wood lot I'll still have some noise from the genny but a quailty extension cord I can get that 50' or so away.



They have inexpensive small diesel gennies now as well, if you don't mind imports. The quality appears to be acceptable. Guys are using those engines to repower equipment and giving favorable reviews, small tractors and whatnot.

I *do* know from being in the alt energy community for so long, that most any of the inexpensive gas gennies, no matter who makes them, just don't last very long. This is from people who live off grid and actually have to rely on generators as supplements for their other systems/rigs, solar or wind, etc..

And diesel stores way longer and gives better mileage, you'll get more electricity per fuel dollar spent for sure.


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## Dan_IN_MN (Mar 8, 2012)

3fordasho said:


> The motor can be set up for 110v or 220v. Just a matter of how it's wired. The wattage requirement does not change however, the amp draw drops 50% at 220v vs 110v. The confusing thing is starting power requirments are all over the place. If I need a $3k generator I'll need to change my SuperSplit order to a gas motor. I was looking at $350 -3750W max or a $500 - 6000w max type generators at Menards. Coleman powermates.
> 
> FWIW I believe the motor on the SS would be a capacitor start motor, can't be a split phase.
> 
> A 1hp motor only requires max 1500w ONCE it is running. The question is - will the start up kill a 3750W max watt rated generator?



A wild idea crossed my mind....

If the start up wattage is the concern, what about modifying the splitter by using the belt drive as a clutch? The method of modification would depend on the design of the belt drive. My first thoughts would be to use a longer belt, and put in movable tensioner connected to a lockable lever. Disengage the clutch to start the motor. Once the motor is up to speed, slowly engage the clutch to get the flywheel up to speed.



Thoughts?


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## Whitespider (Mar 8, 2012)

It’s a rare device that uses more than double the running wattage at start-up. If the running wattage is 1500 max, than I would bet start-up ain’t even double if it can be run from a standard 110/120v outlet.
Look at it this way… A standard 20A 110/120v outlet (20A x 120v = 2400 watts), and in reality a 20A circuit is designed to carry only about 85% load continuous, or 17 amps… There isn’t any way possible that start-up would be over 3000 watts if the thing can be plugged into a standard 110/120v outlet.

If a 5000W generator will not start a *110V* piston air compressor… I’d be having that generator looked at, ‘cause it ain’t working correctly!

With all that said, I’d still get the larger $500.oo – 6000w max generator because you’ll probably want to use it for other things and you don’t want to be short on power. I have a 5500/6500w generator for back-up power… no problem running my whole house (with a bit of common sense). When I tested it I had all the normal stuff running or plugged in (such as lights, TVs, clocks, computers, ceiling fans, etc.), then I fired up the well pump, furnace blower, 2 window air conditioners, all four burners on the electric range, and not until I started the electric clothes dryer did the breaker on the generator let go… but it didn’t kill the engine.


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## Duane(Pa) (Mar 8, 2012)

manyhobies said:


> A wild idea crossed my mind....
> 
> If the start up wattage is the concern, what about modifying the splitter by using the belt drive as a clutch? The method of modification would depend on the design of the belt drive. My first thoughts would be to use a longer belt, and put in movable tensioner connected to a lockable lever. Disengage the clutch to start the motor. Once the motor is up to speed, slowly engage the clutch to get the flywheel up to speed.
> 
> ...



I like the idea of an over center belt clutch if it can be done easily. Then you could surely get by with one of the whisper quiet Honda generators, which I have, (no super split though). I said earlier I like saw noise, but hate splitter engine noise. Can't explain it, but if you watch youtube vid of electric SS, it is almost tranquility!


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## 3fordasho (Mar 8, 2012)

Duane(Pa) said:


> I like the idea of an over center belt clutch if it can be done easily. Then you could surely get by with one of the whisper quiet Honda generators, which I have, (no super split though). I said earlier I like saw noise, but hate splitter engine noise. Can't explain it, but if you watch youtube vid of electric SS, it is almost tranquility!





I like the way you think ;-) The idea would be to get by with the smallest/lightest/quietest generator possible. Not much efficiency in having a 6000 watt, 200lb generator run a 1000w load. A co-worker suggested getting the flywheels spinning before applying power. Don't know the practicality /accessability of doing that- I'm pretty sure those flywheels are well covered up. I too don't mind the noise from chainsaws, but that 13hp honda clone on my 27ton splitter sure drives me nuts.


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## Whitespider (Mar 8, 2012)

3fordasho said:


> *Not much efficiency in having a 6000 watt, 200lb generator run a 1000w load.*



Actually there is.
Running a gasoline powered generator at, or close to, maximum capacity uses a lot of fuel and creates a ton of generator destroying heat; running one at, or below 1/2 capacity creates minimal heat and sips fuel. A 5000w generator running a 1000w load will last 10-times as long and use a lot less fuel than a 1200w generator running the same 1000w load. When it comes to generators, the question of efficiency is not answered with "_smaller is better_." In fact, 50% capacity is where most are bench-marked as far as fuel efficiency, run time and life expectancy.


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## zogger (Mar 8, 2012)

3fordasho said:


> I like the way you think ;-) The idea would be to get by with the smallest/lightest/quietest generator possible. Not much efficiency in having a 6000 watt, 200lb generator run a 1000w load. A co-worker suggested getting the flywheels spinning before applying power. Don't know the practicality /accessability of doing that- I'm pretty sure those flywheels are well covered up. I too don't mind the noise from chainsaws, but that 13hp honda clone on my 27ton splitter sure drives me nuts.



Put a car muffler on it.


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## upsnake (Mar 8, 2012)

Whitespider - wouldn't you have to have a nice enough of a generator that can produce the correct frequency at different engine speeds though? It was my understanding that with most gennys it is all or nothing, they can idle but as soon as one thing calls for power it needs to run at the full 3600 rpms to produce 60 hz. ( I could be completely wrong though been known to happen, a lot if you ask my wife.  )


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## TJ-Bill (Mar 8, 2012)

Can ask why buy and splitter with an electric motor when your planning on using a Gasoline generator to run it? your ending up paying 3-4 times more for a generator then gas engine that would have been on the splitter.


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## MNGuns (Mar 8, 2012)

I believe the concept is to run the SS on electricity the majority of the time, then when you need to operate remotely you can run it off a genset if you wish. Least that is my game plan. Another nice thing about running off a genset is that the noise is 100ft away at the end of the power cord. I already have gensets, so cost of additional equipment is not a factor for me.


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## CUCV (Mar 8, 2012)

All the start up ideas are cool, I even have a few others, but the reality is that the electric motor will come close to a stalled state when splitting something that can't be split on one hit thus the generator will need to start it on its own. I can try my fathers 4000watt max on my splitter to check it out. I will check but I think my father sold his 2500watt max generator but if he still has it I can try that too.


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## Whitespider (Mar 8, 2012)

*upsnake*,

I don’t know of any portable generators that idle, or change speeds… they all run at 3600 RPM whether-or-not there is load. Mine doesn’t have any sort of throttle lever, or knob, or whatever… it runs at 3600 RPM continuously, even with nothing hooked to it. Actually it can damage the generator head to run it a less than rated RPM, even with no load.

But… a small _4-cycle_ gasoline engine running at 3600 RPM is not at “_wide-open-throttle_”. The throttle plate is controlled by the governor, which opens the throttle only as much as is needed to maintain the RPM’s. With no load applied to the engine, at 3600 RPM, the throttle plate barely moves from idle position… only under load does the throttle plate open further. The amount of fuel used is in direct proportion to how much air is flowing through the carburetor (or past the throttle plate… or how far the throttle plate is open).

The generator head, turning at 3600 RPM is making full AC voltage (120 or 240 depending)… but if nothing is plugged in to pull amps there are no watts being produced (i.e. zero load on the generator head and near zero load on the engine). Watts are a measure of power (amps x volts), and if nothing is using power (pulling amps) there are no watts being produced by the generator.

When something is plugged into the generator it places a load on it, which places load on the engine, which causes the throttle to open in order to maintain RPM. As you increase the load (amps) at any given volts, there will be more load placed on the engine, causing it to use more fuel, and the more heat created by the generator head. That heat is hard on the generator head… and it is lost energy (watts) that is reducing the relative efficiency of the generator/engine combination.

A 13-HP engine/5500w generator, running 3600 RPM, at *20%* load (1100-1200 watts) will use a whole lot less fuel than a 4-HP engine/1500w generator, running 3600 RPM, at *80%* load (1100-1200 watts)… The larger generator will hardly make any damaging/wasteful heat and would take near forever to wear-out, but you’d likely burn up the 1500w generator in well under 100-hours.


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## Dan_IN_MN (Mar 8, 2012)

manyhobies said:


> A wild idea crossed my mind....
> 
> If the start up wattage is the concern, what about modifying the splitter by using the belt drive as a clutch? The method of modification would depend on the design of the belt drive. My first thoughts would be to use a longer belt, and put in movable tensioner connected to a lockable lever. Disengage the clutch to start the motor. Once the motor is up to speed, slowly engage the clutch to get the flywheel up to speed.
> 
> ...





Duane(Pa) said:


> I like the idea of an over center belt clutch if it can be done easily. Then you could surely get by with one of the whisper quiet Honda generators, which I have, (no super split though). I said earlier I like saw noise, but hate splitter engine noise. Can't explain it, but if you watch youtube vid of electric SS, it is almost tranquility!





3fordasho said:


> I like the way you think ;-) The idea would be to get by with the smallest/lightest/quietest generator possible. Not much efficiency in having a 6000 watt, 200lb generator run a 1000w load. A co-worker suggested getting the flywheels spinning before applying power. Don't know the practicality /accessability of doing that- I'm pretty sure those flywheels are well covered up. I too don't mind the noise from chainsaws, but that 13hp honda clone on my 27ton splitter sure drives me nuts.



Just thought I'd put the thoughts in progression....:hmm3grin2orange:


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## Duane(Pa) (Mar 8, 2012)

CUCV said:


> All the start up ideas are cool, I even have a few others, but the reality is that the electric motor will come close to a stalled state when splitting something that can't be split on one hit thus the generator will need to start it on its own. I can try my fathers 4000watt max on my splitter to check it out. I will check but I think my father sold his 2500watt max generator but if he still has it I can try that too.



Thanks, that would be awesome. I could live with being a little "selective" about what I tried to crunch when hooked to a genny. (sometimes I BS myself)


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## timbrjackrussel (Mar 8, 2012)

Any inveter type generator can change speed depending on load and still put out 60CPS.
Honda Generators: Portable Generator Power for Home, Work, and Play


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## Whitespider (Mar 8, 2012)

Yes, that is true... an inveter type generator can throttle up and down...
But they typically cost from 5-10 times as much as a conventional type generator.
An inverter type generator is certainly not required to run an electric log splitter... or most things short of sensitive equipment for that matter.
All my comments were directed to conventional type generators, as I thought that's what we were talking about here.


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## BSD (Mar 8, 2012)

you're going to have your truck with you in the woods.... so why not run a large DC inverter? let your truck run for an hour or two while you split. no extra motors to maintain, sure, it might use a little more fuel, but the simplicity of it will be worth way more. I have a 2400w inverter we use to run a 2" water pump @ work for filling our 500 and 300 gallon tanks. it's so much easier than dragging our 3" gas pump around.


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## 3fordasho (Mar 8, 2012)

MNGuns said:


> I believe the concept is to run the SS on electricity the majority of the time, then when you need to operate remotely you can run it off a genset if you wish. Least that is my game plan. Another nice thing about running off a genset is that the noise is 100ft away at the end of the power cord. I already have gensets, so cost of additional equipment is not a factor for me.




^^^^ Exactly.

All wood for personal use comes home and gets split at home.. sometimes in my closed garage. 
Lesser wood I leave at the wood lot, split it and stack it at the wood lot. I sell that wood to my fireplace/firepit customers.
Once my current lots are clear cut, unless I find more to work I will do all splitting at home.


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## 3fordasho (Mar 8, 2012)

Lots of great ideas being thown out there. I am certainly learning a bit about generators.. Sounds like a 5000w unit is what I should be looking at. Will also check into the inverter idea using the truck to power it.

To the member who offered to test his splitter with a generator- that would be much appreciated!


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## mesupra (Mar 8, 2012)

How about you purchase a 3 or 6.5 hp honda clone engine, engine bracket from Paul at SS and switch over to gas when needed, can't be anymore work than lugging around a gas sucking generator. I think this would be the way to go esp. if you are not in need of a generator. My SS has the 3hp briggs and I rarely run it on the governor, where as my 8hp 4400 homelite runs at 3600rmps the whole time, load or not, its going to use way more fuel and require even more maintenance than a 3 or 6.5 clone engine.


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## Clarkbug (Mar 8, 2012)

mesupra said:


> How about you purchase a 3 or 6.5 hp honda clone engine, engine bracket from Paul at SS and switch over to gas when needed, can't be anymore work than lugging around a gas sucking generator. I think this would be the way to go esp. if you are not in need of a generator. My SS has the 3hp briggs and I rarely run it on the governor, where as my 8hp 4400 homelite runs at 3600rmps the whole time, load or not, its going to use way more fuel and require even more maintenance than a 3 or 6.5 clone engine.



That seems like a pretty good idea to me... one of the predator engines from HF can be had on the cheap when they go on sale and have the coupon, and thats a lot cheaper than a generator. 

although, if you want the generator for your house, thats another story...


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## Patrick62 (Mar 8, 2012)

*My 25 cents worth!*

I run off the grid, and have several generators around here. I am also about half of a sparky as well, so I fiddle with things a bit. My experience thus far:

Don't try a inverter unless you get a really really big one. They are full of magic smoke. When the smoke comes out.. :bang:
A 1hp motor would be a terrible load for any inverter to start up, even without a load!

Generators are the same as electric motors. They both have a significant overload capability if the wiring is up to the task. The smaller Chinese generators have the wimpiest engines and the generator is capable of more than the engine can do. There is a valid point of trying to get a higher quality set.

I have a antique 1500W army generator. I have a 3/4 HP drill press. It will NOT start the motor. A 3K will do it nicely. I would imagine that your 1hp would be the same. No reason for a 5K genset, overkill.

Once the motor is off the starting surge, it is correct that the watts drops considerably. As long as the SS doesn't load the motor down to strting speed then it really isn't gonna take a lot of power to keep things going.

View attachment 227904

the little 1.5 K military generators...

View attachment 227905

Big John. 3K rated, and will do 3 phase at a variety of voltages. In the back ground you notice the 20,000 watt ST unit.


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## Duane(Pa) (Mar 8, 2012)

What we need here is a convertable! (then patent the [email protected] thing)


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## upsnake (Mar 8, 2012)

Whitespider - Thanks a bunch for the explanation. That makes a lot of sense. The Genny that i have a 13 hp generac 5500 w, has an "idle control" switch, that it will idea down the engine speed, if nothing is asking for power.

I normally don't use it though b/c my sump pump runs anyway from 2-3 a minute, so the generator is just getting done reving down and it has to rev back up. (that way when i had the extension cord to the sump), since i hooked the genny into the the house is is more stable.


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## Whitespider (Mar 9, 2012)

I took a chance on one of the Harbor Freight 13-HP 5500/6500w generators with electric start a couple years ago, on sale and with coupon I paid like $450.oo.
After reading the reviews on them I decided on three things...

Most problems were being seen with the larger 6500/7500w units, the 5500/6500w units had better reviews.
Do some maintenance before using it (tighten bolts, toss the cheap spark plug, etc.).
Break it in slowly.

The first hour of run time was done in four 15-minute cycles, no load, letting it cool-down completely between, then I changed the engine oil. During the he second hour of run time I started by powering a couple of 100w light bulbs, adding just a bit of load every 10-minutes or so (radio, box fans, old furnace blower, battery charger, etc.). After letting it cool down overnight again I ran it a third hour adding more (variable type) loads to the previous (drill press, air compressor, table saw, etc.) After I set up my transfer box(s) I used it occasionally to power the shop during that summer while I was out putzing around in it... 1-2 hours at a time. After about 10-hours of run time on it (only used 'bout 4-gallons gas) I gave it the big test and powered up the house, shop, and well house... no problem at all. We've need to use it during power outages twice now, the longest was only 6-hours but it worked flawlessly. The electric start is nice because the wife can easily start it if'n I'm on the road. I keep fresh fuel in it, start the thing 'bout once a month, and run a small load for 15-minutes or so every second or third test start. I haven't put a gauge on it, but I gotta' believe the 5500/6500w is an under-rating... because we don't even make it grunt while powering the house, shop and well house.


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## Boundaryh20 (Mar 9, 2012)

mesupra said:


> How about you purchase a 3 or 6.5 hp honda clone engine, engine bracket from Paul at SS and switch over to gas when needed, can't be anymore work than lugging around a gas sucking generator. I think this would be the way to go esp. if you are not in need of a generator. My SS has the 3hp briggs and I rarely run it on the governor, where as my 8hp 4400 homelite runs at 3600rmps the whole time, load or not, its going to use way more fuel and require even more maintenance than a 3 or 6.5 clone engine.




I actually chatted with Paul on this before I bought my SS. He mentioned that it would only take a few minutes to switch between gas/electric....now that I have a SS, can't see it taking more then 10 - 15min to take the gas engine off and replacing with an electric motor. I plan on setting mine up for electric at some point...just too many other projects right now! But it sure would be nice having the electric in the pole barn to split...

I have also been thinking of a way to mount both (electric motor under the beam, gas on top of beam), then just switch belts from electric/gas. Should be able to do this, but the cover would have to be modified to offer protection/safety from the belts.

Good-luck


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## Whitespider (Mar 9, 2012)

Patrick62 said:


> *Don't try a inverter unless you get a really really big one. They are full of magic smoke. When the smoke comes out..*



I have to agree with that 100%. I use one of those "_hook-up to your battery_" inverters in my work van to power my laptop and some diagnostic equipment, also charge two-way handheld batteries and cordless tool batteries, occasionally power-up a two-way mobile or data radio. They definitely are full of "magic smoke" which appears a few months after purchase, just when you need it most. The loads I place on it are small, really small with very little surge (if any)... Started with a 200/400w, magic smoke in 3 weeks... Went to a 400/800w, magic smoke in 3 months... Now I'm on my third 750/1500w in two years... I've learned to just carry a new spare back-up.


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## kodiak (Mar 9, 2012)

*3fordasho* - Your sig lists a gas splitter. Why don't you take that to your site?


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## 3fordasho (Mar 9, 2012)

kodiak said:


> *3fordasho* - Your sig lists a gas splitter. Why don't you take that to your site?



I will use it for really big stuff (it goes vertical) and knarley crotches and such. But for 90% of what's out there, it's too slow.


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## zogger (Mar 9, 2012)

Whitespider said:


> I have to agree with that 100%. I use one of those "_hook-up to your battery_" inverters in my work van to power my laptop and some diagnostic equipment, also charge two-way handheld batteries and cordless tool batteries, occasionally power-up a two-way mobile or data radio. They definitely are full of "magic smoke" which appears a few months after purchase, just when you need it most. The loads I place on it are small, really small with very little surge (if any)... Started with a 200/400w, magic smoke in 3 weeks... Went to a 400/800w, magic smoke in 3 months... Now I'm on my third 750/1500w in two years... I've learned to just carry a new spare back-up.



If you want a *real* inverter, go with these guys, not the walmart or truck stop versions.

Xantrex | Power Inverter, Inverter Charger, Battery Charger Manufacturer


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## zogger (Mar 9, 2012)

Patrick62 said:


> I run off the grid, and have several generators around here. I am also about half of a sparky as well, so I fiddle with things a bit. My experience thus far:
> 
> Don't try a inverter unless you get a really really big one. They are full of magic smoke. When the smoke comes out.. :bang:
> A 1hp motor would be a terrible load for any inverter to start up, even without a load!
> ...



What is your main supply? Are you doing a solar/wind/genny hybrid system?


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## Whitespider (Mar 9, 2012)

zogger said:


> *If you want a *real* inverter, go with these guys, not the walmart or truck stop versions.*



My Xantrex XPower 400 made the "magic smoke" three months after purchase and my XPower Micro 800 lasted 9 months... the "truck stop" versions (Cobra) have lasted about the same length of time. Right now I'm running a Vector Dual Outlet and it's lasted the longest so far, getting close to a year.


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## zogger (Mar 9, 2012)

Whitespider said:


> My Xantrex XPower 400 made the "magic smoke" three months after purchase and my XPower Micro 800 lasted 9 months... the "truck stop" versions (Cobra) have lasted about the same length of time. Right now I'm running a Vector Dual Outlet and it's lasted the longest so far, getting close to a year.



I don't get it then. Did xantrex cover it? Are you just overloading them? Or are all these just cheaply made? Last place we lived as caretakers had a whole house solar rig with xantrex gear, never a problem.


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## Whitespider (Mar 9, 2012)

*zogger*,

They ain't overloaded, but...
The van gets started and shut off at times while the inverter is running and at load.
I have it wired to a toggle switch on the dash that I flip on and off, willy-nilly with no regard to what load my be connected
It sits and/or runs during winter and summer inside a vehicle (read temps from -30 to something way, way over 100, humidity all over the map, and tons of dust during the summer).
It's mounted under the passenger seat with drop cords running to different chargers and power outlets.
My work van bounces over some of the roughest rural roads you can imagine.

So even though it aint overloaded... it is somewhat tested (read abused). They just last only so long.
My usage ain't the same as running one in a controlled environment, such as inside a house, relatively constant load... but it's certainly closer to the conditions one would see using it to power a splitter in woods.

addendum: I have no idea if Xantrex (or anyone else) would cover them... I figure anything priced in that range (less than $100.oo) is a throw-a-way.


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## BSD (Mar 9, 2012)

an inverter mounted under a seat is not going to last, they want air flow and a constant power source (ie, keep the truck running). The bargain bin inverters aint' going to cut it either. i should see what the HP rating is on my 2" water pump that i power with my 1500/2400w surge inverter. pretty sure its at least 3/4hp if not a 1hp motor. it spikes the inverter hard when its first turned on, but it recovers quickly. you can pick up a 2k/3k surge inverter for about $350 now and it'll do everything you'd need. i use mine all the time to run a angle grinder, circular saw out in the field. its just so much easier to have in the truck than a generator. and i can move it to any of my trucks in 10 seconds. my trucks are all wired with anderson plugs with 2ga wire for our dump inserts and we just disconnect the beds and plug in the inverter when we need it.


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## Patrick62 (Mar 9, 2012)

zogger said:


> What is your main supply? Are you doing a solar/wind/genny hybrid system?



Depends on what is going on. Little house is running on a solar panel and AGM battery with a 350W inverter (It runs the lights nicely, charges phones, computer, etc). When more power is needed I like to run one of the little 1.5K jobs. 4 hours on a little over a gallon. The shop used to have a wind generator but I _killed_ The batteries. Up for repair, at some point :rolleyes2: New addition is a small panel to see if I can keep the internet working.
When BIG power is needed for welding, crank up the 1.8 Isuzu spinning that 20K generator. Arc welder, air compessor, etc.

Eventually, go back with wind charging a 24V system for the shop. It is nice to be able to turn the lights on! For the smaller stuff I am starting to really like the solar panels. Sticking with the mono crystalline at this point... ain't cheap but has a long life and better output.

Now to run a saw on a battery!!! Hmmmm


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## Whitespider (Mar 9, 2012)

BSD said:


> *an inverter mounted under a seat is not going to last, they want air flow...*



That's just silly... it has plenty of air flow. The seat sits at least 3 inches above the inverter.


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## zogger (Mar 9, 2012)

*Why gee....*



Patrick62 said:


> Depends on what is going on. Little house is running on a solar panel and AGM battery with a 350W inverter (It runs the lights nicely, charges phones, computer, etc). When more power is needed I like to run one of the little 1.5K jobs. 4 hours on a little over a gallon. The shop used to have a wind generator but I _killed_ The batteries. Up for repair, at some point :rolleyes2: New addition is a small panel to see if I can keep the internet working.
> When BIG power is needed for welding, crank up the 1.8 Isuzu spinning that 20K generator. Arc welder, air compessor, etc.
> 
> Eventually, go back with wind charging a 24V system for the shop. It is nice to be able to turn the lights on! For the smaller stuff I am starting to really like the solar panels. Sticking with the mono crystalline at this point... ain't cheap but has a long life and better output.
> ...



...funny you should mention that...

http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/179262.htm

I have a small array now, plus a windgenny, but that isn't installed, just not enough wind here to bother with it. Mostly grid though. I want to get a larger genny and have it be a propane fired to hook to the unused and slap full big tank here.

I used to maintain on an estate a killer solar system though, jamup nice. 36 panels, stacked charger/inverters, two big battery banks, one had rolls surrettes in it. *Those* are nice batts...


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## CUCV (Mar 11, 2012)

Ran the SS on a 4000 watt generator today, it ran well. I then hooked up a 1000watt flood light to increase the load on the generator. It sure slowed startup and recovery time and I even stalled the generator on a good knot.
Here is a little video

Electric Supersplit running on a 4000watt generator log splitter - YouTube


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## zogger (Mar 11, 2012)

CUCV said:


> Ran the SS on a 4000 watt generator today, it ran well. I then hooked up a 1000watt flood light to increase the load on the generator. It sure slowed startup and recovery time and I even stalled the generator on a good knot.
> Here is a little video
> 
> Electric Supersplit running on a 4000watt generator log splitter - YouTube



Pretty cool, master blaster! Doncha like it when a plan comes together?

Hey, who's that big tall guy loading the wood for you? He seems well trained....


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## 3fordasho (Mar 12, 2012)

CUCV said:


> Ran the SS on a 4000 watt generator today, it ran well. I then hooked up a 1000watt flood light to increase the load on the generator. It sure slowed startup and recovery time and I even stalled the generator on a good knot.
> Here is a little video
> 
> Electric Supersplit running on a 4000watt generator log splitter - YouTube





Awesome! thanks for taking the time to make the video


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## angelo c (Mar 12, 2012)

I am an electical moron ( 212v vs 213v ...hey whatever it takes..). Lets start with that announcement up front. Having said that there is no financial need to buy one huge generator if the main focus is to run the SS. Buy a 5 horse Honda gas engine and when you want to convert to "winter" indoor operations, by all means do do. Its a belt drive system. Changing the motor is so easy even a "geico" salesman can teach a caveman to do it. Keep the generator around when you need the generator..I'ld suggest one of those Honda whisper quiet ones that will not defeat the purpose of having bought the electic SS in the first place.....peace and quiet INDOORS and emergency use on the farm...running a generator all day long is like running an electric car that takes massive amounts of coal fired .....oh you get my point.


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## 3fordasho (Apr 16, 2012)

*Electric SuperSplit arrived today*

SuperSplit elected to upgrade the motor to the 1.5hp version, an upgrade that might not have been welcome seeing how I intend to run it off a generator at remote sites. Assembled the splitter and did a test run off of household 115v. No issues as expected... I think I'm really going to like this splitter. Now for the generator test... Ended up with a Champion 3500W/4000W max generator from TSC. Nice little generator for $299. I was kind of expecting the 1.5hp electric motor to stop it dead, but with a few seconds of struggling upon turning the motor on it runs it just fine. As expected once the flywheels are spinning there are no issues at all.
I know, pics or it didn't happen- I'll work on that tomorrow.


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## pdhowell (Apr 17, 2012)

I easily run a Ramsplitter electric, 240 volts, 9 amp, per the information, on the motor plate off of a 5500 watt fairly inexpensive Coleman generator. I have no problems even when it is well below freezing. I have no experience when it is below zero. 

The rather noisy generator is fifty feet away. The generator also runs lights so that I can work at night, and a cheap miter saw with a carbide framing blade to cut up the smaller limbs. It seems to be a good combination, made possible by the generator.

The generator seems to burn a lot of gas, but it has an older Tecumseh engine. I think newer engines, Subaru, Honda, maybe Briggs, are more efficient

Hopefully useful


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## MNGuns (Apr 17, 2012)

3fordasho said:


> SuperSplit elected to upgrade the motor to the 1.5hp version, an upgrade that might not have been welcome seeing how I intend to run it off a generator at remote sites. Assembled the splitter and did a test run off of household 115v. No issues as expected... I think I'm really going to like this splitter. Now for the generator test... Ended up with a Champion 3500W/4000W max generator from TSC. Nice little generator for $299. I was kind of expecting the 1.5hp electric motor to stop it dead, but with a few seconds of struggling upon turning the motor on it runs it just fine. As expected once the flywheels are spinning there are no issues at all.
> I know, pics or it didn't happen- I'll work on that tomorrow.



The electric SS is the cats meow. I love using mine. It's like you're splitting wood, but its....silent..:cool2: I would suggest investing in a good 10 gauge extension cord for it. May help with the start up lag.


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## Whitespider (Apr 17, 2012)

pdhowell said:


> *The generator seems to burn a lot of gas, but it has an older Tecumseh engine. I think newer engines, Subaru, Honda, maybe Briggs, are more efficient*



I've had a Harbor Freight 5500/6500 W generator with a 13 HP Honda knock-off for about 18 months now. I don't have any idea how many total hours its ran... I've used it a bit to power things and it did power the whole house once for about 5 hours. I suppose it has around 10-12 hours of run time and the 6 gallon fuel tank is just under the 1/2 full mark... I'm thinkin' it's time to drain the fuel and pour in some fresh. That's a lot of run time for just 3 gallons of gas... heck of a lot less then my splitter uses.


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## 3fordasho (Jun 20, 2012)

*update*

About a week ago I finally got the electric SuperSplit out to the wood lot for some action. First comment is that no towing option is kind of a pain. I mounted a small harbor freight 2000lb electric winch to the front of the pick up bed and have been using that to pull the SS up a set of ramps into the bed of the truck. Now I need to rig up a removable third wheel for the front leg on the SuperSplit.

Now to the splitting part, split for about 2 hours with no issues. Mostly siberian elm, box elder and some american elm. In that time I don't think I had to throw any rounds aside for the hydraulic splitter. Sure I stalled it on a few pieces, hit it again or at worse a third time worse case. Now if your splitting 30" round american elm full of knots all day long, you might as well go all hydraulic.
Also if you don't have a straight cut where the ram hits, you will bind the ram and it won't return. Light prying with a screwdriver will release. Just put the crooked cut towards the wedge and you don't have the issue.

Now after 2 hours of splitting my little champion 3500w/4000w peak generator would no longer bring the 1 1/2hp electric motor up to full speed. The generator would sit and buck, the motor would get up to about 1/2 speed (guestimate) and stay there.
Figured out later the splitter v-belt had bedded in and was not slipping like it did before... loosened the belt to allow for a little slippage and it's up and running again. I have not split anymore yet to see if the issue will return.

So - it really needs a little more generator, or it might have been ok if I had gotten the standard 1 hp electric motor.


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## Duane(Pa) (Jun 20, 2012)

Thanks so much for posting your results. I really was interested in seeing if one of the Honda "whisper quiet" Genny's would power the thing. Four strokes are noisy to me but two stroke is music! Go figure? DW


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## ChoppyChoppy (Sep 2, 2016)

Old threadt, but it popped up under "new posts" for some reason.

I wanted to mention 1hp is 746 watts, or about 6 amps at 120v, 3 amps at 240v.
15 amp outlet is limited to about 1.5-2hp, depending on the motor. So that shop vac that claims 6hp, it's complete balonie!.


If a 4 or 5k Gen set is having trouble, the starting draw on that SS motor has to be crazy.


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