# chainsaw chain sharpening guides/trouble shoot and examples



## patallen (May 23, 2012)

Hi, i would like to find as much info as i can to know how to sharpen chainsaw chains properly, i know this is kinda black art, but i know there are some rules of thumb and guidelines to follow. I know some persons can tell whats wrong by looking at the discoloration of the teeth, depth, angle, upond needs (hard wood, soft wood,...)
There must be a book or a web site somewhere about that, either just basics or something very deep.

fwiw i sharpened my old XL12 today and made some comparision test with my friend and his Stihl 026...i did beat him on a quick cut. lol...i used regular round file, and after a diamond incrusted type miniature file to "finish" it....cut like a razor blade, but i know my technique could be much improved....

thanks.


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## BobL (May 24, 2012)

Razor sharpness is pointless for anything other than racing since the first few seconds of cut effectively knocks any finely honed edge off the cutter.
A CS cutter also does not cut like a knife or a chisel, the bulk of the cutter metal is relatively soft and instead it's the thin hard chrome coating on the cutter that does all the hard work.
What is required for effective cutting is a no-glint cutter edge and correct setting of cutter and raker angles/depths.

Suggestioins are.
1) Download the Carlton chain sharpening book - I see it is no longer on the Carlton site but a copy can be obtained here
Carlton Chain sharpening Complete Book
2) Get your self a filoplate or similar and learn how to set rakers with that.
3) Then go read the Sticky in the Chainsharpening forum (here)

Then try progressive raker setting - then smile reflecting on how far you have come.


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## Dave Boyt (May 25, 2012)

I know some professional loggers who can freehand sharpen a chain, but I never got that good at it. It is more of a science than an art. If you do it right consistently, it will cut consistently. I use the Husqvarna sharpening tool (works on any saw) from Baileys, but Lowe's stores also sell them. Make sure to get the right pitch guide. Filing rakers is critical. Any time the chain isn't cutting as well as it should, I pull out the guide and flat file and work them down a bit. I am also a big fan of the stump vise, which is also available from Baileys.


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## patallen (May 31, 2012)

Hi, thanks for the reply. i downloaded carlton guide and was very helpfull. i also bought a Oregon file holder and depht gauge, and filed my XL12. It cuts very well. Thanks guys, now i need to practice.


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## BobL (May 31, 2012)

patallen said:


> . . . . i also bought a Oregon file holder and depht gauge, and filed my XL12. It cuts very well. Thanks guys, now i need to practice.



Is that a fixed depth gauge? If it is then it will only work for a while then as the cutter wears the chain will cut less and less efficiently. 

What is needed to keep the chain cutting well is a progressive depth gauge like the file-o-plate from Carlton or a similar one from Husky.

Good luck.


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## JOE.G (Jun 1, 2012)

Dave I just picked up one just like your using in the Picture I haven't taken it out of the package yet but do you have any tips on using it?


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## blades (Jun 7, 2012)

For a couple bucks there gauges to check the depth gauge height ( or as some call rakers) normal height is .025 less than the cutter height more aggressive is .030.


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