# chainsaw bar type reviews



## texastele (Sep 12, 2011)

Hi. I have always bought the chains and bars for my stihl chainsaws at the dealer here. I bought one on Saturday for a 310 and it cost me fifty something dollars and so i got to looking on Baileys to see how that would run me. I looked at the stihl and oregon ones, but that wasn't going to be too much different from buying here in town and then I was going to have to wait two-three weeks to get the thing here. Then I looked at the carlton ones and one of the types was 27 bucks and the other one was about 50. Why is that? Do yall have any thoughts on different bar types? Also, while we are talking about there are some very expensive bars on there. Who is going to pay a hundred dollars for a bar? I am putting this one on an ms 310 3/8 size 18 inch, .063 diameter. Thanks


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## mikefunaro (Sep 12, 2011)

The $100 bars of which you speak are woodland pro bars, which are a private label for baileys made by cannon. They are very expensive but are supposedly top quality, hand made, have super durable rails, etc. It's not worth it to me because I feel like there are still somewhat decent chances that i might pinch of bend the bar, and in that case, $100 is a lot to lose. They are also heavy. Somebody must still buy them though, because cannon is still in business. 

Generally laminated bars are cheaper than solid bars. Laminated bars are multiple (3) plys of metal that are brought together. The inner ply is smaller and so the rails are created. Solid bars are a solid chunk of metal and the rails are ground out. 

Stihl bars are good bars. If the carlton bar you refer to is one of the german made clear coated ones they too are pretty good. sometimes the clear coat can plug up the oil holes and you have to do a little bit of battle to get things flowing. They are cheap because they are clearance. Carlton was bought by oregon and sooner than later you'll probably see more oregon PM bars showing up in their colors. 

I'm less than satisfied w. oregon bars of late given how much they ahve been costing. the rails wear somewhat extensively even with adequate oiling. 

The bar business has lots of changes, rebranding, close outs, etc, etc


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## rms61moparman (Sep 12, 2011)

I'll have to answer your question with a question.

What type of cutting and how much of it, do you do???
I personally don't see the need for a 3-4 cord per year firewood cutter to invest the money in the "top quality" bars.
The laminated bars will give him good service for many years, and there is a certain degree of lunacy to have a $100.00 bar on a chainsaw in your garage that you only use a few hours or minutes per year.
A guy like myself who is burning (and therefore cutting) 15-20 cords per year needs a little better bar, or a lot more chainsaws! (I chose this option!LOL)
I don't put as many hours on some of my saws as a casual homeowner will and really only take them out for fun, at a GTG or simply for a change of pace. Therefore I don't need to tie up the funds that would be necessary to outfit ALL of them with the best bars.
Someone who is cutting on a daily or even weekly basis can justify and therefore afford one of the "top of the line" bars.
They would be foolish to spend the $$$ to replace a worn out bar every month or more because they buy cheap bars with soft(er) rails. Especially if they are running several saws for their needs, or if their paycheck is significantly decreased by having to replace bars instead of cutting wood.

So in summary, each consumer has to evaluate their needs and decide the wisest course of action for themselves. 

Hope this answers your question.


Mike


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## SomewhatStock (Sep 12, 2011)

Im wondering the same thing here. I have an MS261 with an 16" rollermatic e bar and I want to have a 20 nearby. 

I think I want a GB CN40 Titanium bar (.325 .063) but cant find them online from a us retailer.


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## mikefunaro (Sep 12, 2011)

SomewhatStock said:


> Im wondering the same thing here. I have an MS261 with an 16" rollermatic e bar and I want to have a 20 nearby.
> 
> I think I want a GB CN40 Titanium bar (.325 .063) but cant find them online from a us retailer.


 
GB has gone through some tough times with a "divorce" of management, if you will. I think they got dropped by stens. Prices have gone way up. Probably not worth it if you ask me. 

FWIW you should probably stick with a laminated bar on a 261 in a 20" length or you're going to be sitting quite noseheavy.


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## REJ2 (Sep 12, 2011)

Oregon laminates on my smaller saws, Oregon Powermatch or Husky equivalent on the bigger ones, could spend more but why??


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## Slamm (Sep 12, 2011)

mikefunaro said:


> GB has gone through some tough times with a "divorce" of management, if you will. I think they got dropped by stens. Prices have gone way up. Probably not worth it if you ask me.
> 
> FWIW you should probably stick with a laminated bar on a 261 in a 20" length or you're going to be sitting quite noseheavy.


 
Yes, there was a time when I thought that GB was it, they made some great bars for the money, but now, I won't get them anymore, and now I get the Stihl's for as cheap or cheaper with no shipping costs or waiting times, so its a no brainer anymore. But I did really like the GB's of old for the money, they were as good as Stihl ES and has awesome rail life, just hard as heck after they first "burred up" a little, and work hardened. I actually have some coming back from Chainbar.com that are very old and maybe needed a tip or the rail closed or something, I think out of 9 bars that went out there about half were old GB's that still have some life left, when chainbar.com got through with them.

Oregon is a joke, little more needs to be said, ......................... but I will, you might as well carve a slot into a 1"x3" board and mill a slot for the bar studs and call that a chainsaw bar.

Cannon is really good and really heavy and really expensive, LOL.

Haven't used any other makes,

Sam


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## SomewhatStock (Sep 12, 2011)

mikefunaro said:


> GB has gone through some tough times with a "divorce" of management, if you will. I think they got dropped by stens. Prices have gone way up. Probably not worth it if you ask me.
> 
> FWIW you should probably stick with a laminated bar on a 261 in a 20" length or you're going to be sitting quite noseheavy.


 
Thanks, Ill stick with a Rollermatic e.


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## tdi-rick (Sep 12, 2011)

SomewhatStock said:


> Im wondering the same thing here. I have an MS261 with an 16" rollermatic e bar and I want to have a 20 nearby.
> 
> I think I want a GB CN40 Titanium bar (.325 .063) but cant find them online from a us retailer.



PM MCW, he has some good stocks of GB bars, just can't remember the mounts/sizes offhand, although postage might be exxy from this side of the Pacific.
He sent a couple to Gypo up in the far north back at the beginning of the year.

FWIW Tsumura make very, very nice bars, mostly rebranded as Total Super bars from Tilton in the US.
I think Cutters Choice sell them as Laser bars too. ??


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## texastele (Sep 13, 2011)

I cut some brush for land clearing, but mostly it is filling orders. I am cutting mesquite for orders, mostly. Oak or pecan when there is an order, which hasn't been too much lately. So, it could be a half a week on a very slow week to so much that I have to have help to fill what has come in. (There is a ms 310, a ms 391, and a ms 290 I just picked up for next to nothing.) 


:msp_biggrin: my son likes the emoticons:yoyo::wink2:


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## texastele (Sep 13, 2011)

Also, is there another website besides baileys to look at to get bars?


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## ratso (Sep 13, 2011)

Slamm Sam why do you dislike Oregon bars? I run mostly stihl es super but 
have run Oregon power match plus and they seem to be fine.


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## HILLBILLYREDNEC (Sep 13, 2011)

The forester bars are fairly cheap. There is champion cutter bars as well.Keep a eye on the bay some good bar deals come thru. Windsor is also quite good bars over 24" flex a lot:msp_w00t:


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## mikefunaro (Sep 13, 2011)

HILLBILLYREDNEC said:


> The forester bars are fairly cheap. There is champion cutter bars as well.Keep a eye on the bay some good bar deals come thru. Windsor is also quite good bars over 24" flex a lot:msp_w00t:


 
Word on the street is that windsor is going to go bye bye now that it's been acquired by oregon. 

The power match bars are very soft in my experience. Even with adequate oiling, if they get pushed hard, the rails really give and you end up having to deburr quite a bit. 

Again, they're not terrible, but they are super expensive for what you get. A 20" solid bar lists up near $60. 

Given the volume they do, the money they must make, and the staff they have, I dont understand why oregon chain is as soft as it is or why the bars don't hold up well.


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## 2dogs (Sep 13, 2011)

Cannon bars have very hard rails, much harder than Stihl or Oregon, and are easily worth the money to me. Also the nose sprockets are half the price of Stihl (which is why I only run narrow nose Cannons vs the wide nose which uses a Stihl nose). I also run an Oregon reduced weight bar on an MS660 but it really is a little whippy. The MS460 has a fairly new 28" Stihl ES light bar. Both of these bars were well over $100.00 and each of these saws has a Cannon for firefighting work. I just put a 16" Stil light bar on my MS200t and completely changed the feel of the saw for the better. That bar was almost $80.00 including tax.

None of my saws are firewood saws or cookie cutters (though I will cut nearly any firewood I can get and I am running out of room). My saws are work saws and incidently have been running hard nose bars the last six weeks. I think for most people a cheaper and lighter bar is the best option. The Oregon Pro Light and the Stihl Rollamatic E are great choices. For heavy duty day in day out use the best bar barring the weight is Cannon followed closely by Stihl Rollamatic ES. Professional loggers will more than likely use a reduced weight bar.


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## Hayden (Jul 28, 2016)

GB Australia once made the bars for Stihl and believe they no longer do so, all the guide bars I've seen in recent years have all been from USA or Germany.
Who does the best guide bars? Well the Japanese kick ass if you ask me "Sugi Hara & then Tusmura" and then Stihl (Have not tried Cannon).
I hear that Oregon is now manufacturing out of China & Husqavarna have opened their own chain factory in China.


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## Hayden (Jul 28, 2016)

Ordered a 20"3/8 Oregon M75LPX multicut chain for Red Gun firewood cutting and will see if it holds up to its price tag. Will most likely be the last Oregon product I buy if it's rubbish. I think we can all expect chain quality to drop over the next couple years with Chinese manufacture, their steel just does not seam to have the same quality.
I do know Stihl has factories in Germany, USA, Brazil & CHINA so let's hope STIHL quality remains the same.


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## Kennyman (Mar 22, 2019)

Oregon has been going down hill and up hill at the same time. The stihl bars that I come across vary too the bars that are made in the us seem to wear faster than a German made stihl bar I still have a cpl of those old turds around only thing thats really worn is the paint


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## Hayden (Mar 23, 2019)

Yep, my understanding is that Oregon has a factory in China now. Japanese bars, Stihl & Cannon are the only good brands left in my apinion.
My understanding is, Archer Australia is a brand name & their products are Chinese. I’ve seen lots of YouTube videos where people think they are made in Australia.




Kennyman said:


> Oregon has been going down hill and up hill at the same time. The stihl bars that I come across vary too the bars that are made in the us seem to wear faster than a German made stihl bar I still have a cpl of those old turds around only thing thats really worn is the paint


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## Huskybill (Mar 23, 2019)

I set up my business with a wholesaler. Everything was like 100% markup. A bar was $25 it retailed for $50. They had awesome sales. Laser tip welded bars for $5 each brand new. Chain precut 72lp 60 dL .050 ga for $5 a loop. I still have loops left and 25’ rolls of 72lp chisel chain. New rim and drum clutches.

I think the place is out of business now.


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## Kennyman (Mar 24, 2019)

Huskybill said:


> I set up my business with a wholesaler. Everything was like 100% markup. A bar was $25 it retailed for $50. They had awesome sales. Laser tip welded bars for $5 each brand new. Chain precut 72lp 60 dL .050 ga for $5 a loop. I still have loops left and 25’ rolls of 72lp chisel chain. New rim and drum clutches.
> 
> I think the place is out of business now.


Stihl brand?


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## Kennyman (Mar 24, 2019)

Got a 30" cannon bar on my 480cd I treat that thing like gold touch up my chain every chance I get so I don't start to wear on it I'm hoping to make it last but she still gets worked dropped a 5 ft wide old growth pine earlier this winter had to walk it around but down she went running a archer loop on it


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## Huskybill (Mar 24, 2019)

Don’t underestimate the power of a 480cd.

I perfer Windsor bars first and Oregon bars second. We’ll see how the Chinese bars hold up next.


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## Kennyman (Mar 24, 2019)

Would like to have some work done on it port n polish she's a hard saw to keep up with with my 20" set up on it


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## Huskybill (Mar 24, 2019)

If the 480cd is running great I’d leave it along there aren’t much in parts for these around. I need to check local dealers for new parts next.


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## Ketchup (Mar 24, 2019)

Bottom End:
Holzforma
Lazer
Other Chinese laminate bars
But they’re dirt cheap!

Then: 
Forester Laminate
Oregon Laminate
Stihl Laminate (E)
GB Laminate

Mid range with replaceable nose:
Oregon/Husqvarna/Jonsered
GB (used to be cheap!)
Stihl ES
Tsumura 
Sugihara/Total

Lightweight:
Oregon Reduced Weight $$$
Stihl light $$$
Sugihara $$
Tsumura $ (these are a good deal!)

Most durable:
Stihl ES $$
Sugihara
Cannon $$$$

Just my opinion though. 

Many brands have been bought out, like Windsor (really good), Carlton (meh) and many others. Hard nose bars (like Stihl Duramatic) can often be bought cheap now, but aren’t easy on the power head.

Ask yourself: Will I ever actually replace the tip on this bar? Am I buying this bar because it looks good on the saw? How much will this $200 bar get used?

Beware of used EBay bars. Shipping can be killer and you can’t inspect before you buy. 

Personally, I like Tsumura Light and Tough. I hate saws pulling my saddle down and giving me plumbers crack. So light is right and Tsumura is cheaper. No complaints so far, 2 years in.

If you need a bar for a 50cc homeowner saw, just buy a cheap laminate. Even the Chinese ones will be fine.


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## Kennyman (Mar 25, 2019)

Huskybill said:


> If the 480cd is running great I’d leave it along there aren’t much in parts for these around. I need to check local dealers for new parts next.


160 psi never had a p/c swap, nos walbro


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## cary911 (Mar 25, 2019)

Go for What ever looks the Best! No, … I did 
ask Cannon if they'd make a Polished "Old School Red Logo" … They said sure! $28 Addl.


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## cary911 (Mar 25, 2019)

2dogs said:


> Cannon bars have very hard rails, much harder than Stihl or Oregon, and are easily worth the money to me. Also the nose sprockets are half the price of Stihl (which is why I only run narrow nose Cannons vs the wide nose which uses a Stihl nose). I also run an Oregon reduced weight bar on an MS660 but it really is a little whippy. The MS460 has a fairly new 28" Stihl ES light bar. Both of these bars were well over $100.00 and each of these saws has a Cannon for firefighting work. I just put a 16" Stil light bar on my MS200t and completely changed the feel of the saw for the better. That bar was almost $80.00 including tax.
> 
> None of my saws are firewood saws or cookie cutters (though I will cut nearly any firewood I can get and I am running out of room). My saws are work saws and incidently have been running hard nose bars the last six weeks. I think for most people a cheaper and lighter bar is the best option. The Oregon Pro Light and the Stihl Rollamatic E are great choices. For heavy duty day in day out use the best bar barring the weight is Cannon followed closely by Stihl Rollamatic ES. Professional loggers will more than likely use a reduced weight bar.




I'm by no means a Production Faller. I do run long bars however, Oregens RW's. or Stilh's ES Lights. "I* do have 2 "OREGON PRO" labeled Bars". A 30 & a 37" They seemed to be used exclusive in the day over the Powermatch's.* I don't believe they make these anymore.* Do you know the advantage, or the concept behind those blended nose, polished bars, Ideal for the professional fallers??? … I'd appreciate it!*


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## cary911 (Mar 25, 2019)

I guess they're still available?


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## BenGilstrap (Mar 25, 2019)

For what it’s worth, I think every land owner out to have one shorter solid hard nose. An inexpensive laminate serves 99% of my needs, but the solid bar is for big cluster fudges.


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## mbrick (Mar 25, 2019)

Ketchup nice detailed post. Are the Tsumura a rebrand equivalent to Sugihara? They look similar. Or is one of the two better?

Do you happen to have weight comparisons across a given size such as 24"?

I see Tsumura and Tsumura ultra light. Any durability concerns with the ultra light?
http://www.shopcomstocklogging.com/...RIVERS-MADE-IN-JAPAN-FOR-COMSTOCK_p_1885.html
http://www.shopcomstocklogging.com/...0-GAUGE-84-DRIVERS-MADE-IN-JAPAN-_p_2310.html

Edit: I found this thread with weights, parsing through now...
http://************/threads/guide-bar-data-and-picture-thread.1269/

Edit2: LOL they censor the URL here for the other big forum? Also found this, has almost all of the Stihl or Tsumura/Sugihara weights.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/bar-data-picture-thread.265892/page-4

Found this data from here for Oregon Power Match, which means their 24" is around 3lb 8oz. So the Tsumura or Sugihara are about 1lb less.
Oregon Pro-Lite 24” .375 .063 84 drive links weight 1553g
Oregon Powermatch 24” .375 .063 84 drive links weight 1584g


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## cary911 (Mar 25, 2019)

BenGilstrap said:


> For what it’s worth, I think every land owner out to have one shorter solid hard nose. An inexpensive laminate serves 99% of my needs, but the solid bar is for big cluster fudges.



That's another question, sorta off track. "What is the benefit to a Wide Nose Tip, opposed to a Narrow"?


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## Kennyman (Mar 25, 2019)

Ketchup said:


> Bottom End:
> Holzforma
> Lazer
> Other Chinese laminate bars
> ...


Was looking at the Tsumura bars online theyre pretty pricy


mbrick said:


> Ketchup nice detailed post. Are the Tsumura a rebrand equivalent to Sugihara? They look similar. Or is one of the two better?
> 
> Do you happen to have weight comparisons across a given size such as 24"?
> 
> ...


Must be a slotted bar to be a lb less the others all weigh about the same


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## young bucker (Apr 6, 2019)

A personal opinion..i run husky 372/390 with stihl lights..can’t go wrong and the tips last long plus the rails are easy to maintain..the only thing that would set guys back is the price..I pay 204 cdn for a 32” bar and 225 cdn for a 36” .I can see it getting costly on guys whom are hard on gear..every camp I shift into barge or land has a pile of old bent bars stashed away all makes and sizes.


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## Huskybill (Apr 7, 2019)

I just found some new old stock 17” Windsor H009/D009 hus roller tip bars for $20 each. There 3/8” .058 ga, 68dl. Huztl has the chain loops cheap. I try to buy Windsor first. Some smaller saw Windsor bars are $10, go to eBay. Here’s some deals on Windsor bars.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=windsor+chain+saw+bars

I have one son who is tough on chains, the cheap huztl chains are perfect.


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