# killing stumps



## stihl 440 (Feb 4, 2007)

What do you use to kill stumps to keep them from growing back, and speed the rotting process. I am clearing a left go 35 acre field.


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## smokechase II (Feb 4, 2007)

*speed the rotting*

I tried the buttermilk thing on two cherry stumps with no success.
This has been suggested here on AS.


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## mpatch (Feb 4, 2007)

35 acres of what??? that could get expensive if it all had to be sprayed.


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## ASD (Feb 4, 2007)

THIS


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## Urbicide (Feb 4, 2007)

Stumps should be treated within a few minutes of being cut in the first place. I was told 5 minutes and John Paul Sanborn said 20 minutes so do it quickly. Buy a glyphosphate based herbicide (41% strength). Buy generic, Round-Up is a brand name that you will pay through the nose for. Mix 3 parts of glyphosphate with 2 parts of water. Apply with a squirt bottle to the outer layer of the cut stump, the cambium. Don't bother to cover the whole surface of the cut stump or you will be wasting your herbicide.You can purchase a dye to mix in with your herbicide mix to give you an indication of what stumps have been treated. Spray any sprouts which might pop up or cut the surface of the stump a bit lower and treat again. Purchase your herbicide from a feed store or farmer's co-op if you can. It is much cheaper. Good herbicides are also available on line. Forestry Suppliers Inc is a good one.You might want to check with your county agriculture extension office. You might be eligible for some cost-share programs.


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## A. Stanton (Feb 4, 2007)

Around here, I just cut em level to the round and let the termites take over.


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## stihl 440 (Feb 5, 2007)

*trees*

I am dealing with apple, crabapple, cherry, maple, some white oak. All trees are not over 1ft in dia. at base. . They are not cut yet. Although there was a 20" cherry in the middle of the field, and 2 red oaks 20" at base. I am starting in spring. The field is all mowed. So is the best way to just cut them as low as possible? There is probably over 150 trees. I forgot to mention that there is 3 parts to this field. It looks like an upside down L. I already cleared the one in the upper corner, only had 10 trees in it. I just cut those stumps as low to the ground as possible. I probably have them 1/4" above the dirt. Also this field is going to be a hay field. Would salt work?


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## ATH (Feb 5, 2007)

Glyphosate is labeled, and it works, but there are probably better choices. 2-4-D based products. Garlon. Tordon. If you are doing the work now, oil-based herbicides will work better.


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## mpatch (Feb 5, 2007)

an excavator would be your best bet


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## Steve-Maine (Feb 6, 2007)

We have been using Tordon. works great. A few years ago I cut-down a 36" willow on my own property and applied the tordon with paint brush right after cutting trunk. Never had one sucker come up. Just my ideas


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## Urban Forester (Feb 6, 2007)

Try Pathfinder, works well for us. click this link:

http://www.dowagro.com/ivm/forestry/prod/path.htm


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## hanniedog (Feb 6, 2007)

Use Tordon RTU on the stumps. It will take while for stump to rot. No bigger than they are just get a backhoe and dig them out.


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## 00chris85 (Feb 6, 2007)

*stump killin*

the easiest way to do it is get a 2 inch wood bit and a cordless drill and drill 5 to 6 holes in the stumps them pour a 50 50 mix of antifreeze and round up in the holes. what ever you don't burn the stumps then you'll never get ride of them.


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## kevinj (Feb 6, 2007)

Over the past couple of years,
I select cut several acres,
of pretty much the same trees as yourself.
I would do maybe 10 to 20 trees at a time,
leaving about a 20 in. stump that will be used as 
firewood. After cutting off everything to be thrown into the firepit,
the trunk and larger branches were cut to aprox. 5 to 6 ft. lengths, 
depending on weight. Most these trees were about 9 in. dia.
These sections were stacked nearby to be bucked throughout the winter.
Within the next few days, I would then have my spray bottle and saw in hand. The stumps were cut close to ground level. But,after cutting, I would leave the stumps in an upright position. Next, 
I would brush off any chips with a stiff brush.
After that the stub was sprayed with a 2-4D product. 50-50 mix with water.
Then put the stump on it's side to show that it has been treated.
I've had good results with this. Sometimes it was necessary to re-spray,
on those tougher trees.
Hope this helps.


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## olyman (Feb 7, 2007)

stihl 440-----take the apple and crabapple trees to a chipper--and dry the chips--lay on a tarp right out in the field--then bag--and sell for bbq---going to turn the large cherry, and the oaks into boards???? find someone with a bandsaw--


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## Big Jim60 (Feb 7, 2007)

*Best Stump Treatment*



Urban Forester said:


> Try Pathfinder, works well for us. click this link:
> 
> http://www.dowagro.com/ivm/forestry/prod/path.htm



I agree with Urban Forester - Pathfinder is very effective - I work for the DOT here and we have been using it for years. We use the Pathfinder II formulation which is oil based and can be applied at anytime of the year. One other good feature is that it doesn't leach thru the soil like some of the other products. As for the rotting- it'll take awhile!


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## stihl 440 (Feb 7, 2007)

olyman, I already cut the cherry down. It was so crookid I don't think you could even get a 2x4 out of it. I cut it into firewood. Trust me I sell every merchantable log I get. The 2 red oaks are still standing, they are straight. I am selling them to the sawmill.


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## neighborstree (Feb 8, 2007)

pee on them to keep them from groing back lol.. no im messin, used motor oil works, isnt to inviromentally safe., but effective


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