# Been gone for a while, here's a few splitters I've built recently.



## A.E. Metal Werx (Oct 25, 2015)

I've been gone for about a year. Been in the shop working away building things. Splitters mostly. The blue one I built for a friend an fellow as member. He was burned by the last place he bought s splitter and luckily was able to return it but for a hit to the wallet. We worked together and i think/hope that he's happy now. As for the red and black one, that's the most recent design with all the new updates. It has a better designed wedge and 4-way design. Also has a removable and adjustable height log rack. There's several other things that stand out but I'm not here to bore you. I'll have a thread in the swap meet section for the red one shortly. Enjoy


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Oct 25, 2015)

Link to the for sale thread. 
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...2Anew%2A-commercial-size-log-splitter.287747/


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## CaseyForrest (Oct 25, 2015)

Very nice looking units. Someone mentioned you when I was inquiring about buying a commercial grade splitter.

Id be willing to offer my first AND second born.....


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Oct 25, 2015)

Oh my! Now that's a new one.


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## TMFARM 2009 (Oct 25, 2015)

nice!


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## 93green12v (Oct 25, 2015)

Good looking splitters, can I ask is it messy to change out the hydraulic filter? In the process of building my own splitter and like your setup.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Oct 25, 2015)

It's not to bad. Just sick a few rags under it and your fine. It's nice having it up there cause it's out of harms way


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## 93green12v (Oct 25, 2015)

Ok thanks. What's the cycle time on your splitters you build typically?


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## Deets066 (Oct 25, 2015)

Nice lookin splitters there! Very similar to how I build mine.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Oct 25, 2015)

Deets066 said:


> Nice lookin splitters there! Very similar to how I build mine.


It's an ever evolving process. Been building these for years. Always trying to improve on the last one.


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## Philbert (Oct 25, 2015)

Very nice looking work!

Philbert


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## Time's Standing Stihl (Oct 25, 2015)

Very nice Alex! Every build keeps getting better and better!


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## Deets066 (Oct 25, 2015)

This was my last one


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## farmer steve (Oct 26, 2015)

great looking splitters.  that blue one would look good behind my new holland tractor.


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## farmer steve (Oct 26, 2015)

CaseyForrest said:


> Very nice looking units. Someone mentioned you when I was inquiring about buying a commercial grade splitter.
> 
> Id be willing to offer my first AND second born.....


and i'd throw in my wife too.


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## jr27236 (Oct 26, 2015)

That blue one is crazy!!! Is that a powered oil cooler/radiator?? 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Oct 26, 2015)

jr27236 said:


> That blue one is crazy!!! Is that a powered oil cooler/radiator??
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


Has an electric fan, it moves some serious air.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Oct 26, 2015)

93green12v said:


> Ok thanks. What's the cycle time on your splitters you build typically?


 My typical splitters run around 10.5-11. The blue one is 6.6


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Oct 26, 2015)

There is a lot more details about the red and black splitter here. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/index.php?threads/*new*-commercial-size-log-splitter.287747/
I didn't want to bore everyone with a long read here.


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## benp (Oct 26, 2015)

Those are AWESOME!!!!!!

Fantastic work!!!!!!


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## mn woodcutter (Oct 26, 2015)

Deets066 said:


> This was my last one
> View attachment 456106
> View attachment 456107
> View attachment 456108


Awesome work! You are smaller than I thought you would be!


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## GM_Grimmy (Oct 26, 2015)

Who said you could come out of the garage? LOL

Good work Alex!! I didn't know you had the red one done. Looks great.............other than the red color  Someone's going to end up with a quality splitter, that's for sure. There isn't another one on the market that even comes close to this quality of build! I've had "the other guys" splitter, and there is no comparison to what Alex builds, hands down.

I'm having withdraws by not having Big Blue out yet. Dam shed is taking too long.  By the time I get to use it, I might have to install a heater on it to stay warm!! haha


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## 93green12v (Oct 26, 2015)

Stand behind that Honda engine and it'll bake you Grimmy. My friend has a Timberwolf Tw-6 and that's by biggest complaint of that machine. Standing behind the engine on a 90 degree day sucks.


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## GM_Grimmy (Oct 26, 2015)

93green12v said:


> Stand behind that Honda engine and it'll bake you Grimmy. My friend has a Timberwolf Tw-6 and that's by biggest complaint of that machine. Standing behind the engine on a 90 degree day sucks.


Oh yea, there's some serious heat coming from that beast!! Maybe I can turn it around so it would blow on the OP for cold weather use. Alex, I got another idea for ya!!


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## USMC615 (Oct 26, 2015)

Very nice fabrication...talk about building a piano...


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## aheeejd (Oct 26, 2015)

Wow, I'd want one even if I didn't have any wood to split, nice workmanship......

Sent from my LG-ls990 using Tapatalk


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Oct 26, 2015)

Pretty work! no shame in that game.


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## olyman (Oct 26, 2015)

A.E. Metal Werx said:


> It's not to bad. Just sick a few rags under it and your fine. It's nice having it up there cause it's out of harms way


or set a old cookie sheet under it,,the ones with welded corners,,and punch a hole in the side of filter....then slide sheet to side,,and pour in pail...ANDDDD, quality work....


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## sam-tip (Oct 26, 2015)

Looks very nice. How well blanced is the splitter. Or how heavy is the tong weight. Noticed the kick down leg in the back. Tippy lifting big rounds?

You do nice work.


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## bayard (Oct 27, 2015)

nice work.


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## sam-tip (Oct 27, 2015)

Don't forget this A E splitter beam you did for me. Been a busy year for A E


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## GM_Grimmy (Oct 27, 2015)

Have you had time to make any more progress on yours Doug?

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk 2


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## KiwiBro (Oct 27, 2015)

Love looking at good welds. 

My old man can't draw a straight line with a pencil *and* ruler, but has a welding ability bordering on so ridiculously surgical he can do up/down/inside out/outside in/straight, curved, whatever you need, welds blindfolded while standing on his head. 

This apple might as well have been on a neighbouring orchard because it fell so far from the tree that my welds are 95% hope and never to be relied upon.


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## sam-tip (Oct 27, 2015)

GM_Grimmy said:


> Have you had time to make any more progress on yours Doug?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk 2


Small amounts of progress. Got the axel narrowed and back on the frame.

Pictures are from yesterday. Worried with long beam for 30 inch stroke the splitter will be tippy. 

Hope to assemble axel drive motors and wheels this weekend.


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## Deets066 (Oct 27, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> Don't forget this A E splitter beam you did for me. Been a busy year for A E


I like the tube instead of a beam, what's the wall thickness?


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## GM_Grimmy (Oct 27, 2015)

I believe 1/4" or 3/16". I can't remember which. It's one heavy SOB though!!

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk 2


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## Flash (Oct 27, 2015)

Great looking splitters. It was nice meeting you at the gtg. And even nicer running that 562 of yours.


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## sam-tip (Oct 27, 2015)

Tube is 1/4" thick. about 9 ft long.

Whos 562? I had carbide chain on mine so it can't be mine. It cuts but not fast.


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## Flash (Oct 27, 2015)

Sorry, I didn't specify. Alex's 562. That thing is a beast.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Oct 27, 2015)

sam-tip said:


> Looks very nice. How well blanced is the splitter. Or how heavy is the tong weight. Noticed the kick down leg in the back. Tippy lifting big rounds?
> 
> You do nice work.


The kick down leg is standard. If you plan to split with them I hooked you better use the kick stand to be safe. Balance is actually pretty good. Tows awesome.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Oct 27, 2015)

Man... I missed all sorts of post.. Sorry for not keeping up. I guess tapatalk doesn't want to notify me..


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Oct 27, 2015)

Deets066 said:


> I like the tube instead of a beam, what's the wall thickness?


The tube is indeed 1/4" and the slide plate is 3/4" ar400, standard on all my larger splitters. That think should/will last forever.


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## devonhubb (Oct 28, 2015)

Have you considered making & selling wedge parts/assemblies? And possibly the slider plate assembly? I would think that these parts could be produced on a small scale & shipped. I would certainly be interested....


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## streetbros (Oct 28, 2015)

Those are some awesome looking splitters. how much do you have tied up in the blue one?


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Oct 28, 2015)

devonhubb said:


> Have you considered making & selling wedge parts/assemblies? And possibly the slider plate assembly? I would think that these parts could be produced on a small scale & shipped. I would certainly be interested....


I have considered having a "builders" kit and probably would at any time if there would be interest. Just been busy trying to bust these things out and have a lil family time also.


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## devonhubb (Oct 28, 2015)

Do you have a rough idea of what a "builders kit" will be priced at? 

And what it will include?


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## ChoppyChoppy (Oct 28, 2015)

Do you have a water jet or cnc plasma or you cut all by hand?


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Oct 28, 2015)

devonhubb said:


> Do you have a rough idea of what a "builders kit" will be priced at?
> 
> And what it will include?


Not sure yet.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Oct 28, 2015)

I have a track burner but typically have an outside vendor burn them out for me as I need them. Once I get into a larger shop a burn table is on the needs list.


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## Deets066 (Nov 1, 2015)

A.E. Metal Werx said:


> I have a track burner but typically have an outside vendor burn them out for me as I need them. Once I get into a larger shop a burn table is on the needs list.


Whatever I can't cut on the bandsaw, I cut by hand with a torch. I have a plasma, but to me it's only good for straight cuts that I can use a guide for


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## Time's Standing Stihl (Nov 9, 2015)

One heck of a splitter for someone in the market!!!


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## amberg (Nov 9, 2015)

Very nice, I like the red one.


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## JeffGu (Dec 15, 2015)

Outstanding work. The kind of craftsmanship we used to expect, and get, from USA industrial products. Just beautiful stuff.


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## fred bergman (Dec 16, 2015)

Outstanding work. The kind of craftsmanship we used to expect, and get, from USA industrial products. Just beautiful stuff. X2


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## EXCALIBER (Dec 16, 2015)

I noticed on your push block you just bolt it to the beam, so metal to metal. Any reason you don't use some of that high impact super slick plastic stuff under the pusher to keep wear down? Pros or cons? Do you ever use a single stage pump like the built rite runs? I cannot seem to find any single stage pumps that would work in my searches.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Dec 16, 2015)

EXCALIBER said:


> I noticed on your push block you just bolt it to the beam, so metal to metal. Any reason you don't use some of that high impact super slick plastic stuff under the pusher to keep wear down? Pros or cons? Do you ever use a single stage pump like the built rite runs? I cannot seem to find any single stage pumps that would work in my searches.



20-30 tons of force on plastic is just a bad idea. If you have the pusher design right and use quality materials there is little to no wear on anything. AR-"abrasion resistant" I venture if you would happen to ask the owners of the last two that went out (they have the new style slide plate and pusher) they will back me up. As for the pump. I see no reason someone would run a single stage pump unless they have some HP behind it. A 22gpm two stage requires 12-13hp pump will run at 22gpm till it reaches the set kick out point (500psi typical factory setting) then it gears down to 6-7gpm at (2200 psi typical factory setting). 2-stage= speed plus power and efficiency.


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## olympyk_999 (Dec 16, 2015)

A.E. Metal Werx said:


> 20-30 tons of force on plastic is just a bad idea. If you have the pusher design right and use quality materials there is little to no wear on anything. AR-"abrasion resistant" I venture if you would happen to ask the owners of the last two that went out (they have the new style slide plate and pusher) they will back me up. As for the pump. I see no reason someone would run a single stage pump unless they have some HP behind it. A 22gpm two stage requires 12-13hp pump will run at 22gpm till it reaches the set kick out point (500psi typical factory setting) then it gears down to 6-7gpm at (2200 psi typical factory setting). 2-stage= speed plus power and efficiency.


are you using AR plate for the push block/components and for the top plate on the beam, or just the push block?
i built mine out of just A-36 material, ive got somewhere are 50 cord through it, the paint is long gone, but most of the mill scale is still there...no visible wear that i can find


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## woodcuter ms361 (Dec 16, 2015)

Deets066 said:


> This was my last one
> View attachment 456106
> View attachment 456107
> View attachment 456108


Nice work!!got a question,why are there two lines going in the front port on hyd. cyl.?don't think I have saw that before.Thanks


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## GM_Grimmy (Dec 16, 2015)

woodcuter ms361 said:


> Nice work!!got a question,why are there two lines going in the front port on hyd. cyl.?don't think I have saw that before.Thanks


Its for the auto cycle valve.


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## woodcuter ms361 (Dec 16, 2015)

GM_Grimmy said:


> Its for the auto cycle valve.


Thanks


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Dec 16, 2015)

olympyk_999 said:


> are you using AR plate for the push block/components and for the top plate on the beam, or just the push block?
> i built mine out of just A-36 material, ive got somewhere are 50 cord through it, the paint is long gone, but most of the mill scale is still there...no visible wear that i can find



I use AR400 for the slide plate, main knife, and 4-way knife. I use grade 50 for the pusher assembly except for the bracing, that's A36.


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## EXCALIBER (Dec 17, 2015)

A.E. Metal Werx said:


> 20-30 tons of force on plastic is just a bad idea. If you have the pusher design right and use quality materials there is little to no wear on anything. AR-"abrasion resistant" I venture if you would happen to ask the owners of the last two that went out (they have the new style slide plate and pusher) they will back me up. As for the pump. I see no reason someone would run a single stage pump unless they have some HP behind it. A 22gpm two stage requires 12-13hp pump will run at 22gpm till it reaches the set kick out point (500psi typical factory setting) then it gears down to 6-7gpm at (2200 psi typical factory setting). 2-stage= speed plus power and efficiency.



I guess I shouldn't have used the term plastic.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra-high-molecular-weight_polyethylene
I believe this is the same material we use under our locomotives between the body and the two trucks that hold the traction motors and wheels. Two "plastic" discs that allow the truck to turn and these never wear out. Now considering that a locomotive weighs about 415000lbs so roughly 70 tons on each disc no bigger than a large dinner plate and only a 1/4 inch thick. I was thinking of using a single stage pump so every time you hit the wood you don't drop down to 7gpm you stay at 22gpm increasing cycle speed. Yes it would take some hp to run it


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## sam-tip (Dec 17, 2015)

EXCALIBER said:


> I noticed on your push block you just bolt it to the beam, so metal to metal. Any reason you don't use some of that high impact super slick plastic stuff under the pusher to keep wear down? Pros or cons? Do you ever use a single stage pump like the built rite runs? I cannot seem to find any single stage pumps that would work in my searches.




From my research I think built-rite is using a permco hydraulic pump for their 24 series diesel splitter. At least from the video and still pictures.



It is very similar to a P124B085******** 

I got mine on ebay for $80. But not sure exact size of pump built-rite used.













EXCALIBER said:


> I noticed on your push block you just bolt it to the beam, so metal to metal. Any reason you don't use some of that high impact super slick plastic stuff under the pusher to keep wear down? Pros or cons? Do you ever use a single stage pump like the built rite runs? I cannot seem to find any single stage pumps that would work in my searches.


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## muddstopper (Dec 17, 2015)

That permico pump looks like a double pump with two outlet ports. If that is the same pump that built rite is using, I would venture to guess that they are using it as a high/low pump, just like a two stage log splitter pump. One section is set for high flow low pressure and the other set for high pressure low flow. In reality, both sections could be pumping the same amount of flow, with one section set at around 1000psi and the other section set for 3000psi. With this method, when the low pressure section reaches its set pressure, the fluid is unloaded back to tank while the other section continues to build pressure. While this setup is similar to a two stage pump, it will allow you to run higher flows at greater pressure than the typical two stage log splitter pumps.


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## sam-tip (Dec 17, 2015)

muddstopper said:


> That permico pump looks like a double pump with two outlet ports. If that is the same pump that built rite is using, I would venture to guess that they are using it as a high/low pump, just like a two stage log splitter pump. One section is set for high flow low pressure and the other set for high pressure low flow. In reality, both sections could be pumping the same amount of flow, with one section set at around 1000psi and the other section set for 3000psi. With this method, when the low pressure section reaches its set pressure, the fluid is unloaded back to tank while the other section continues to build pressure. While this setup is similar to a two stage pump, it will allow you to run higher flows at greater pressure than the typical two stage log splitter pumps.


That is what I have not figured out yet. I was thinking one pump is for main pusher and other pump was for log lift and 4 way. Hard to tell about the plumbing from pictures.


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## muddstopper (Dec 17, 2015)

Not sure what or how your build plans are. I can tell you how to plumb it so the double pump works like a two stage. For making it work like you want it, I would need more details.

If you want to use one pump for log lift and 4way, and the other pump for just the splitter, you will need valve for each. If you use a two spool valve for the log/4way lift and a seperate single spool or auto cycle valve, at least one of those valve would need to have Power beyond. I would probably try to make sure the log/wedge lift was the valve with power beyond and then the splitter valve could be without power beyond. You would plumb each valve to the respective pressure port off the double pump, treating each pump and valve as a separate circuit. Your valve with PB would have a return line to tank on the return port and a pressure line from the PB port. This pressure line would go to pressure in or in port of a unloader valve with checkvalve bypass. The unloader valve will have a return to tank a pressure in and a pressure out ports. The return or tank port goes to tank and the pressure out goes to a tee in the pressure line of the second pump, before the second control valve. Plumbing this way will insure that your loglift/wedge lift works all the time and your never robbing oil from that circuit. If you plumb the splitter valve to to unloader valve first, your wedge and loader circuit wont work, or be very jerky if your trying to operate the splitter cyl at the same time.

If plumbed as first suggested, you will need to set the pressure on the unloading valve lower than main splitting pressure. Lets say you want 3000psi at the splitter cyl, but your motor wont pull both pumps at full pressure. You can set the unloader valve to 1000psi and the control valve relief at 3000psi. As soon as system pressure reaches above the 1000psi setting of the unloader vavle, it will shift to tank, the check valve bypass will close and will allow the splitter pump to continue to build pressure, up to the relief valve setting and only flow what ever flow that pump will produce and take less hp than it would if you where trying pull both pumps at 3000psi and 1000 psi. The first pump would still be producing flow, but because that flow was being directed back to tank, hp usage would be minimal. As soon as pressure requirement droped below the 1000psi unloader valve setting, the unloader valve will shift and the check vavle bypass will open and allow both flows to go to the splitter cyl and increase cyl speed. Since pressure requirements are cut in less than half, you can pump twice the flow with the same hp.

I am going to add just in case someone is thinking a relief and unloader valve can be interchanged, they cant. A relief valve is a normally closed valve, internally pressure sensing and doesnot have a check valve bypass. Pressure is sensed on the inlet side of the valve and when pressure is reached over the settings, it pushes against as spring loaded ball and returns oil to tank. This creates heat.
A unloader valve is normally open, can be internally or externally pressure sensing, and senses pressure on the outlet of the valve. Once pressures are reached over the valve setting, the pressure shifts a spool returning oil to tank. This oil flow is not running over a check valve and does not produce heat. In the system I described above, the unloader valve would be sensing the pressure of the splitting circuit instead of the lift/wedge circuit.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Dec 17, 2015)

One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet or really pushed.. More gpm is all fun and dandy if your willing to spend dramatically more mobs tang typically more work. Need more hp, need more oil or a cooler, higher flowing valves, need to run a dump valve, need larger lines, need larger filter assembly and strainer (most don't run one but should.). Once you get past the 25 gpm things get expensive really quick. To some people there simpleton fine with that and it's justified.. Most would think yours crazy and are far from Willing to pay that extra chunk of $$. Just my $ .02.


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## muddstopper (Dec 17, 2015)

A.E. Metal Werx said:


> One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet or really pushed.. More gpm is all fun and dandy if your willing to spend dramatically more mobs tang typically more work. Need more hp, need more oil or a cooler, higher flowing valves, need to run a dump valve, need larger lines, need larger filter assembly and strainer (most don't run one but should.). Once you get past the 25 gpm things get expensive really quick. To some people there simpleton fine with that and it's justified.. Most would think yours crazy and are far from Willing to pay that extra chunk of $$. Just my $ .02.



Its "Tool Time" is on most everybodies mind most of the time. More power, More speed, ar,ar,ar, easy to do, but it'll cost you. Really and truly, for a homeowner wanting a splitter, most any store brand will do. When your trying to do commercial, thats when all the dodads, start becoming justified. For a real firewood business, its pretty easy to justify some of the extras, more production equals more sales. Dependability equates to less down time and equals more production. What it really boils down to is how much production you want and what your willing to spend. I will say if one is willing to scrounge the scrap yards and has patience and a little knowledge as to what to look for, they can build a super duper wood splitter on a pretty low budget.


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## sam-tip (Dec 17, 2015)

Good info on unloading valve for dual output pump and not needing extra horse power at high pressure. Not sure if Built-rite is using a unloading valve. They are using a auto cycle valve and different valve assembly for log lift and 4 way. I will have auto cycle, steering, drive wheels, 4 way, winch and stabilizers. Will need a different thread for this monster. I did have to watch some videos on you tube to better understand unloading valve.


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## muddstopper (Dec 18, 2015)

Most certainly start a thread. I get a ton of good ideals from this site. Theres always some one willing to try and build a better mouse trap. And usually enough like mined folks here to help figure out how to make it work. 

For those wanting to understand how hydraulics work, this is one of the best youtube series of videos I have found on the web. 
. There are around 30something vids in the series covering pretty much all the basics.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Dec 18, 2015)

muddstopper said:


> Its "Tool Time" is on most everybodies mind most of the time. More power, More speed, ar,ar,ar, easy to do, but it'll cost you. Really and truly, for a homeowner wanting a splitter, most any store brand will do. When your trying to do commercial, thats when all the dodads, start becoming justified. For a real firewood business, its pretty easy to justify some of the extras, more production equals more sales. Dependability equates to less down time and equals more production. What it really boils down to is how much production you want and what your willing to spend. I will say if one is willing to scrounge the scrap yards and has patience and a little knowledge as to what to look for, they can build a super duper wood splitter on a pretty low budget.




I'm not a fan of using "used parts" If I'm going to build something it's going to be with new parts. That way I know it's a fresh start. By no means will I use "used" parts for a customer build. If it's my personal machine maybe but never if I think it may go to a new home. As for the more power, speed = easy to do... Maybe if you wanna just cob something together but if you want to do it correctly there's a little more to it. I've seen lots of high flow/gpm splitters out there built wrong. Sadly a lot of them are built by known companies. They know what they did but expect the end user to assume they have the best of the best. Most everything else I see as an opinion. Everyone has one. I just wish more would post facts (correct) facts rather then there opinions. 

I know Samtips build will be done correctly.


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## muddstopper (Dec 18, 2015)

I dont build and sell anything. I find a need for something and buy or build it for my own use. I would think if I was building for someone, they would want the best of parts and be willing to pay for them. For my own use, I use what I can find and accept the results. Thats not to say I would cobble something together just to get by. I dont understand your being against using double pumps in a high/low hydraulic system. What part of my post do you feel is fact or opinion


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Dec 18, 2015)

I never said I was against double pumps. Was just stating facts for positives and negatives. Only thing that kinda gripes my balls in when some guy pretty much hijacks my thread and tries to sound like a know it all, like he's got something to prove. Examples like this is a clear reason why this forum has lost many of knowledgeable and friendly people.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Dec 18, 2015)

On a side note.. I started selling these splitters because I was so upset about what splitters were out there and what they wanted for them for what you were getting. Making a little money and I mean little.. on a sale is nice but I enjoy the feeling that I know they got what they paid for better then anything.


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## muddstopper (Dec 19, 2015)

I see, I make two comments about a pump pictured in this thread, and all other comments where replies to you and I hijacked this thread. My first reply to you was in response to you actually calling me crazy and simpleton fine. And then you suggested that I was posting opinions and not facts. And now I'm a know it all and a example of why this forum has lost knowledgeable and friendly people. It easy to see what kind of example you are setting, maybe you should think about that for a while. Nowhere in thread, or any other,have I said anything derogatory about you or the equipment you build. I was reading this thread because I did like the equipment you are building and it know what it takes to produce a piece of equipment like that. But in the end, it is still just another log splitter and log splitter hydraulics are one of the first simple hydraulic systems they teach in hydraulic engineering. So its not anything really special and your not doing anything really any different than anybody else that build log splitters and not using any specialty parts that others dont use. I'll step out of your thread now and put you on ignore so I wont ever again see anything you post and that way you wont have to worry about me stepping on your little toes.


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## muddstopper (Dec 19, 2015)

A.E. Metal Werx said:


> On a side note.. I started selling these splitters because I was so upset about what splitters were out there and what they wanted for them for what you were getting. Making a little money and I mean little.. on a sale is nice but I enjoy the feeling that I know they got what they paid for better then anything.


 Before I leave, I will agree with you about the quality and some of the prices of wood splitters available on the market.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Dec 19, 2015)

muddstopper said:


> I see, I make two comments about a pump pictured in this thread, and all other comments where replies to you and I hijacked this thread. My first reply to you was in response to you actually calling me crazy and simpleton fine. And then you suggested that I was posting opinions and not facts. And now I'm a know it all and a example of why this forum has lost knowledgeable and friendly people. It easy to see what kind of example you are setting, maybe you should think about that for a while. Nowhere in thread, or any other,have I said anything derogatory about you or the equipment you build. I was reading this thread because I did like the equipment you are building and it know what it takes to produce a piece of equipment like that. But in the end, it is still just another log splitter and log splitter hydraulics are one of the first simple hydraulic systems they teach in hydraulic engineering. So its not anything really special and your not doing anything really any different than anybody else that build log splitters and not using any specialty parts that others dont use. I'll step out of your thread now and put you on ignore so I wont ever again see anything you post and that way you wont have to worry about me stepping on your little toes.


What bugged me the most is in my "opinion" you were giving false hope to possible builders of splitters. I agree that yes some and most splitters are very simple to build but when you start getting in the higher Gpms and larger cylinder rods there's a lot more to look into and in my "opinion" people discard or more or left don't care about. As for the statement that I said about stating opinions vs facts, if you took took it as it was solely directed towards you that's incorrect. Was directed at forums in general. "Oil threads, best saw, best brand" all stuff like that hardly gets facts posted vs opinions. I did take a lot of your info based off of an opinion but was being sold on facts "easy to build, cheap, commercial use". I just don't want someone to take an opinion and see it as a fact. That's with anything and any where. Some people know who they can pull info from and know it's facts vs opinionated. As for my splitters are just like any other splitter out there, I call complete BS and actually take offense to that. I challenge you to take either the red or blue splitter here and compare it to a TW, BW, AW, or any others out there and see differences in quality, attention to detail, BETTER steels (AR Plates) as a main one, wedge design, standard log rack, adjustable height log rack, standard fenders, 15" radials, among other things. All at competitive prices.


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## muddstopper (Dec 19, 2015)

AE,, I did put you on ignore, but got on without logging in so I did see your reply. I am not going to argue with you about rights or wrong or anything else. Your Opinion that I was giving false hope to other would be builders, I dont agree with. I did say when searching the scrap yards, one does need to know what they are looking for. And I am 100% correct that there is more than one way to get two stage pump flows. Does one need a little more than the basic knowledge of bolting on parts and hooking up hoses, darn right, but that doesnt mean it cant be done. I tried to provide a little information on how the high low pump system worked and added clarification so someone wouldnt make the mistake of trying to use a relief in the place of a unloading valve. And Sam did search for more information on the subject, which would be wise advice to anybody attempting such a setup.

As to taking offense to my saying your splitter being the same as any other splitter, I dont have one of your splitters here to look at. I dont know where any of the other brands similar to yours are located, so I cant look at one of those either. Trying to judge quality by a picture is pretty worthless. I am not doubting that you are building a quality well built wood splitter, I actually think you are. But as for it being different than anything out there, maybe in quality, but you are still using a little gas engine, a two stage pump, hydraulic cyl, and control valves, just the same as any other manufacturer, and you are putting them together pretty much the same way anybody else would put those same parts together. You might be providing more hydraulic storage and oil coolers, strainer filters than most/majority of the factory guys, but its still pretty much the same basic design. I am not saying that to offend, just stating the obvious, and that is "My" opinion, whether you agree or not.

I wont debate this further in this thread, if you wish to reply to what I have said, do it in a pm, I took you off ignore so i will receive any replies you wish to make. And using the pm will stop cluttering up your thread. In fact, I think you should contact the Mods and just have them delete our whole exchange on this subject. That would clean up this thread and put a stop to the pettiness.


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## KiwiBro (Dec 19, 2015)

Mods, please don't wipe anything. Leave it up to readers to decide for themselves if it was worth reading. I for one enjoy the learning opportunities and am grateful for anyone who takes the time to share what they know.


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## JeffGu (Dec 19, 2015)

When I'm elected _Dictator of the Internet_, I'm going to implement a system of settling forum disputes that is civilized, fair, and entertaining. Here's how it will work:

The ring will consist of an 8'x10' dump box trailer with 6" layer of wood chips. Opponents will wear a tutu and ballerina slippers in the color of their choice, but good color coordination and a sense of style will be required to lend an air of professionalism to the fight. Two old lady purses, purchased at a thrift store (one with that fake leopard skin crap, one with paisley furniture cloth) will be filled with sawdust or maybe cow poop and will be the only weapons allowed. It will be a full-blown, sissy-slap b*tch fight with five two-minute rounds. A panel of judges will use scorecards like they use in Olympic events, for each round, and final scores tallied up at the end. If the judges can't breathe because they're rolling around laughing, opponents will go to a neutral corner until the judges are revived.

It's not a perfect system, but I think it will be _lots_ more entertaining than the current one.


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## olympyk_999 (Dec 19, 2015)

loving all of these opinions on here


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Dec 20, 2015)

I was not saying he was wrong or that single stage pumps or that's they won't work, never said it. I never that my opinions are better/right then anyone else's. It's an opinion... Everyone's entitled to there own opinion. I'm just trying to get it out there that its opinions vs facts. I agree there's more then one way to skin a cat, plumb a splitter, build splitters, how ever you want to look at it. Again, no it's by no means rocket science but there are a lot of things people/companies out there that are left out or not done. Either because they simply don't know any better, were told wrong, or simply choose not to. Example... Guy owns a splitter with a 22gpm pump. Single stage/2 stage I don't care.. His buddy tell him "hey you should swap out your 2" cylinder rod for a 3.5" and speed up your cycle time. Sounds simple enough right? By doing that one thing he opened up a whole can of worms on the return stroke. His valve is likely only rated up to 25gpm. Worked great for its intended set up but now with the larger rod he's most likely pushing over double the rated gpm on the return stroke. So now he has more heat build up and really isn't getting the full benefit of the larger cylinder rod because of the valve restriction. This is where a dump valve comes in. Could work the opposite with installing a dump valve when it's really not needed. "I read somewhere that a dump valve with really speed up my cycle time". In some cases yes and some no.. Again it's not rocket science but someone can be miss directed very easy.


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## mga (Dec 20, 2015)

the radiator you have on the very first one.....where did you get that from? 

i've had the same idea, I just haven't found the right size one yet.


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## GM_Grimmy (Dec 20, 2015)

mga said:


> the radiator you have on the very first one.....where did you get that from?
> 
> i've had the same idea, I just haven't found the right size one yet.


It's an AKG cooler that was bought from a local AKG cooler dealer, Iowa Fluid Power. This cooler has a 25psi bypass built into it. The fan draws some juice, as the specs say it can draw 17 amps, but in testing it it, it was drawing between 12-13 amps @ 12VDC.


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## Jimbo209 (Dec 20, 2015)

A.E. Metal Werx said:


> Man... I missed all sorts of post.. Sorry for not keeping up. I guess tapatalk doesn't want to notify me..


Every body gets stuck with that, once for the same problem now.
There is a thread somewhere for it


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## mga (Dec 20, 2015)

GM_Grimmy said:


> It's an AKG cooler that was bought from a local AKG cooler dealer, Iowa Fluid Power. This cooler has a 25psi bypass built into it. The fan draws some juice, as the specs say it can draw 17 amps, but in testing it it, it was drawing between 12-13 amps @ 12VDC.



thanks...I think....300 bucks is a little too much just for the splitter....lol

my son does hvac...i'll have him keep an eye out for one.


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## muddstopper (Dec 20, 2015)

folks, I still am not sure if AE and I are disagreeing or just misunderstanding each other. And it doesnt matter. He brings up some good points about mismatching parts. Most of the common autocycle, and normal wood splitter valves are only rated for 25gpm flows. Some are only rated for 20gpm. Now if you take into efficentcy ratings of pumps at 85% then you might get by with a 28gpm two stage pump on a valve system rated for 25gpm. Thats all fine and dandy until you start figureing the extra oil flowing thru the valve on the return stroke of the cyl. With a high/low double pump setup, it would be very easy to overflow a typical wood splitter valve. In order to get it to work correctly without building tons of heat, you would need to go to a much bigger valve system. Try finding a auto cycle valve that will flow 40gpm, if you can find one, its sure to cost a bunch more than a common two cycle valve normally used on a wood splitter. You also have to take into account the size of the hoses and fitting, the ports on your cylinders, the size of your reliefs. I'll stand behind my statements that you can find the parts you need to make a high/low hydraulic system work and at a reasonable price, by scroungeing scrap yards. But you better know what your looking for because just any old control valve or pump might not work the way you want it to. I have seen some mighty big cylinders with mighty small ports as well. Just because the cylinder has a big rod and big bore doesnt mean its meant to have a ton of foil flow. A handy fabricator might be able to change out the ports for bigger ones, but most folks would just bolt it on and hook it up and expect everything to be hunky dorey. It might even work, but down the line somewhere, they will start wondering why their oil is getting so hot, or the seals in there monster cyl are starting to leak and why has their big new pump is suddenly loosing power. 

I will also agree with AE about how some manufacturers do in fact mismatch parts so they have a selling point of "Faster more Power". While their little slight of hand might get by with a homeowner machine seeing limited use each year, their machines simply wont hold up in a commercial setting. And i know someone is going to chime in here and say their MickeyD brand has split a 1000cord a year for the last 10 years with out even changeing the fluid. Whoopy do. I have seen hundreds of splitters leaking oil and worn out control valves with much less usage. I cant/wont comment on anything AE has built or sells. I cant, I havent even seen one, much less run one, but I do feel he is paying attention to details and another one of "MY OPINION's" is if I was looking to buy a splitter, I would certainly be taking a serious look at what he's putting together. 

And for all of you posting the silly junk, Well it is what it is, a waste of bandwidth.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Dec 20, 2015)

muddstopper said:


> folks, I still am not sure if AE and I are disagreeing or just misunderstanding each other. And it doesnt matter. He brings up some good points about mismatching parts. Most of the common autocycle, and normal wood splitter valves are only rated for 25gpm flows. Some are only rated for 20gpm. Now if you take into efficentcy ratings of pumps at 85% then you might get by with a 28gpm two stage pump on a valve system rated for 25gpm. Thats all fine and dandy until you start figureing the extra oil flowing thru the valve on the return stroke of the cyl. With a high/low double pump setup, it would be very easy to overflow a typical wood splitter valve. In order to get it to work correctly without building tons of heat, you would need to go to a much bigger valve system. Try finding a auto cycle valve that will flow 40gpm, if you can find one, its sure to cost a bunch more than a common two cycle valve normally used on a wood splitter. You also have to take into account the size of the hoses and fitting, the ports on your cylinders, the size of your reliefs. I'll stand behind my statements that you can find the parts you need to make a high/low hydraulic system work and at a reasonable price, by scroungeing scrap yards. But you better know what your looking for because just any old control valve or pump might not work the way you want it to. I have seen some mighty big cylinders with mighty small ports as well. Just because the cylinder has a big rod and big bore doesnt mean its meant to have a ton of foil flow. A handy fabricator might be able to change out the ports for bigger ones, but most folks would just bolt it on and hook it up and expect everything to be hunky dorey. It might even work, but down the line somewhere, they will start wondering why their oil is getting so hot, or the seals in there monster cyl are starting to leak and why has their big new pump is suddenly loosing power.
> 
> I will also agree with AE about how some manufacturers do in fact mismatch parts so they have a selling point of "Faster more Power". While their little slight of hand might get by with a homeowner machine seeing limited use each year, their machines simply wont hold up in a commercial setting. And i know someone is going to chime in here and say their MickeyD brand has split a 1000cord a year for the last 10 years with out even changeing the fluid. Whoopy do. I have seen hundreds of splitters leaking oil and worn out control valves with much less usage. I cant/wont comment on anything AE has built or sells. I cant, I havent even seen one, much less run one, but I do feel he is paying attention to details and another one of "MY OPINION's" is if I was looking to buy a splitter, I would certainly be taking a serious look at what he's putting together.
> 
> And for all of you posting the silly junk, Well it is what it is, a waste of bandwidth.


A would venture to say water under the bridge with us. I would say this last post you made had a lot of valuable information, and agree that things more then likely were misunderstood. You definitely can save some serious money searching scrapyards and online auction sites. I know Sam-tip has spent his time and had scored some really good deals. A very good point that was brought up is lines and ports from cylinders. The welded 5" cylinders I used to use had "1/2" ports. I use that term lightly because if you look through the fittings that are yes 1/2" you typically will see a 3/8" hole through the cylinder tube them selves. Situations like that simply tick me off. Right off the bat your set up with a handicap. I used to disassemble the cylinders and bore out the in and out ports and add -12 fittings that have been bored out also. I tig weld the new fittings on and pressure test. The blue splitter and the splitter before that has this done. Since then I have switched to a more $$ tie-rod style cylinder with much better factory ports. Another thing to mention about lines and fittings is a guy wants minimal tight 90 degree fittings. Formed 90s are not cheap but flow well and work well.


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## olympyk_999 (Dec 20, 2015)




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## muddstopper (Dec 20, 2015)

I can vouch for the itdy bity ports in some of the cyl being sold. My 5in cyl came from Northerntool. It had 3/4/sae port threads. Looking down inside the port was a little 3/8dia hole for the oil to go thru. I did diassemble the cyl to drill out the ports. Guess what I found, the cyl was full of metal shaving from the manufacturer. If I had went ahead and used it, it wouldnt have been long until I was replacing other parts. That just goes to show that even buying new, you dont always get what you expect. All parts are not made the same, even if they do look alike.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Dec 20, 2015)

muddstopper said:


> I can vouch for the itdy bity ports in some of the cyl being sold. My 5in cyl came from Northerntool. It had 3/4/sae port threads. Looking down inside the port was a little 3/8dia hole for the oil to go thru. I did diassemble the cyl to drill out the ports. Guess what I found, the cyl was full of metal shaving from the manufacturer. If I had went ahead and used it, it wouldnt have been long until I was replacing other parts. That just goes to show that even buying new, you dont always get what you expect. All parts are not made the same, even if they do look alike.


Yep[emoji107] you sure don't get what you pay for anymore. Them things are not cheap by any means. I prewash/rinse about everything anymore just because of that very reason. Purchased hydraulic tanks is a big one to clean before use.


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## Philbert (Dec 20, 2015)

What is the advantage of the manufacturer boring undersized ports? How does this save them money?

Are there brands of cylinders and valves that you recommend over others due to quality differences?

Thanks.

Philbert


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Dec 20, 2015)

Prince for valves for me. Advantage for under bore.. All I can think of is that it would make quick work for who ever is building the cylinder for line up. But in reality I can't see that even being a fair reason. When I was re-doing the cylinders I just used a slug passed through the fitting ad cylinder for alignment. As for cylinder suggestions.. I don't feel comfortable suggesting any at the moment. Not saying that there all bad.


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## olympyk_999 (Dec 20, 2015)

A.E. Metal Werx said:


> I don't feel comfortable suggesting any at the moment. Not saying that there all bad.


well how bout ones you wouldn't recommend?

both cylinders on mine are prince brand, and we use many prince cylinders at my work...never gotten a crappy one, weather it be tie rod, or welded in both external and internal gland cap configuration


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## muddstopper (Dec 20, 2015)

The last new cyls I bought where actually Gov surplus and had a list price was over $5000. each. While I didnt give nowhere near that price for them. I would hope the manufacturer of those cyl was making a quality product. The 5in cyl with the little ports and metal shaving inside was a chinese product. I'll certainly be dodgeing the Nortrac brand from now on. Only Prince valve I have is the log splitter valve they sell and I havent had any problems out of it. The cyl on my dump trailer is also a Prince and again, satisfied. For scrounge valves, I like to look for Husco. They have been making valves for a long time and they are pretty common on lots of major equipment manufacturers. I tend to stay away from the single casting multi spool valves and the husco valves are usually multi sectional with sections interchangeable between same models. And every one of them I have ever scrounged was rated for 25gpm flow, but I know they make smaller and larger sizes as well. I guess 25gpm is just a common size . This makes assembling multi spool valve bodies pretty easy by buying the bolt kits and a few Orings. Certain models can also be easily converted from open center to closed center. I have a parker v70 valve to use for my processor build, It is rated for 70gpm and was a scrounge score. I like Parker and Racine for solenoid type valves. Not saying they are better than other brands, but I can get my hand on these pretty easy so its go with what you know. Thinking about it, I do have some surplus center solenoid valves on my home made dump trailer not sure of the brand, Vickers I think, but I havent had a minute of problem with it. I used the same solenoid valve when I rebuilt my hydroseeder and it worked great for that application.


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## JeffGu (Dec 21, 2015)

You like playing with things that pump fluids, I take it? Wait... that didn't come out right... nevermind!


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## sam-tip (Dec 21, 2015)

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...plitter-build-diesel-mower-conversion.290862/


I started a thread for my build. Question do I have enough engine for my pump.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Apr 5, 2016)

Link to the red one for sale in the classified section 

*new* commercial size log splitter
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/index.php?threads/*new*-commercial-size-log-splitter.287747/


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## Apolarstar (Oct 25, 2016)

A.E. Metal Werx said:


> I was not saying he was wrong or that single stage pumps or that's they won't work, never said it. I never that my opinions are better/right then anyone else's. It's an opinion... Everyone's entitled to there own opinion. I'm just trying to get it out there that its opinions vs facts. I agree there's more then one way to skin a cat, plumb a splitter, build splitters, how ever you want to look at it. Again, no it's by no means rocket science but there are a lot of things people/companies out there that are left out or not done. Either because they simply don't know any better, were told wrong, or simply choose not to. Example... Guy owns a splitter with a 22gpm pump. Single stage/2 stage I don't care.. His buddy tell him "hey you should swap out your 2" cylinder rod for a 3.5" and speed up your cycle time. Sounds simple enough right? By doing that one thing he opened up a whole can of worms on the return stroke. His valve is likely only rated up to 25gpm. Worked great for its intended set up but now with the larger rod he's most likely pushing over double the rated gpm on the return stroke. So now he has more heat build up and really isn't getting the full benefit of the larger cylinder rod because of the valve restriction. This is where a dump valve comes in. Could work the opposite with installing a dump valve when it's really not needed. "I read somewhere that a dump valve with really speed up my cycle time". In some cases yes and some no.. Again it's not rocket science but someone can be miss directed very easy.


I am interested in purchasing a splitter for firewood. "


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Nov 2, 2016)

Pm me if you are truly interested. See if we can work something out


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