# Port-a-wrap owners



## cmetalbend (Oct 29, 2008)

After looking at several buckingham versions of the device, I've decided to make a few myself. Could sombody take some measurements off theirs and post em up. It appears to be critical on the diameter and lenght of the barrell. Actually one photo of a unit with a tape measure extended beside it would probably git it. Thanks to anybody who helps this newbie out.


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## treeslayer (Oct 29, 2008)

cmetalbend said:


> It appears to be critical on the diameter and lenght of the barrell. Actually one photo of a unit with a tape measure extended beside it would probably git it.



no its not critical, I would rather have one bigger than the porta wrap 3.

think about it, better heat dissipation, better clutch action, simply stronger.

and I don't hesitate to work 1000- 1500 lbs, over structure. one handed. lot of practice, and 2 good climbers. one up, one down. and a steel pulley in the tree.

build a monster, I'll buy one. :hmm3grin2orange:


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## mr wood (Oct 29, 2008)

heres some pics of ours hope they help! 
p.s. I cant get the files small enough to put on here send me your e-mail and wel send them that way.


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## masiman (Oct 29, 2008)

Check out these threads about homemade versions:

Homemade Porty
Homemade Porta-Wrap pix


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## Mikecutstrees (Oct 29, 2008)

*advise on porta wrap....*

heres my little bit of advise for making a porta wrap. Don't paint it. The paint will wear off anyways and while it is, will not make the rope run smoothly over the devise. I built a homemade mini- bollard some years ago and it didn't work smoothly untill the paint wore off. Also the paint will be going into your ropes which probably isn't good for them either. Mike


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## cmetalbend (Oct 30, 2008)

Thanks for the tips. Finish was a factor I had considered. I figured I'd glass bead it for a finish & see how that works out. Powdercoating also was a thought but, I questioned the braking ability. My end thought was using stainless, but material is outragous. I vision seamless tubing, tig welded most likey. From you lucky owners I ask if you can tell if the loop is a solid or tubing type material? I think mine is gonna be a solid probably 1/2 to 5/8 cold roll steel. Judgeing from the shipping weights I'm guessing they're hollow. Again thanks for the info. I searched it out and found more info on usuage also.


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## masiman (Oct 30, 2008)

cmetalbend said:


> ....From you lucky owners I ask if you can tell if the loop is a solid or tubing type material? I think mine is gonna be a solid probably 1/2 to 5/8 cold roll steel. Judgeing from the shipping weights I'm guessing they're hollow. Again thanks for the info. I searched it out and found more info on usuage also.



I think it is hollow but I don't have mine near to confirm that. I have not looked closely but I don't remember where the seam is on that loop.


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## pdqdl (Oct 30, 2008)

The problem with most homemade products is the quality of steel used in the manufactured product is not generally available to the average guy wanting to make his own.

Cold rolled is ok, but I'll bet the factory port-a-wrap is made with better stuff. They also have a really neat nickle finish available as an option that doesn't rust and has a rough texture for better grip.

Cold rolled steel is often spec'd as 1018 (85,000 psi). Other varieties that are stronger are 1045 (110,000 psi) and 4140. 

The 4140 is a high strength, heat treated metal; it's practically spring steel. I don't know the strength, but this is what I would use if I were making a port-o-wrap of my own.

The loop on my port-a-wrap is 3/4" rod, and I firmly believe that it is solid.

The main bar/pipe forming the wrap-drum should DEFINITELY be hollow, but not thin-walled. Lowering heavy weight with a rope generates a lot of heat, and you need the air flow for better heat dissipation. It helps keep the tool light enough to use, also.


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## cmetalbend (Oct 31, 2008)

Weight really isn't a concern(Light) at least not that much. A peice of 2'' cold roll solid really isn't that heavy. I'm looking at D.O.M tubing it ranges 1/4 to what ever thickness. I doubt heat is a concern (coming from a rope) unless your material is really(really) thin. I'm gonna try to put the seam in the loop on either side, not at an end or in a bend. I'll try to get this project underway next week and post up the results. Thanks to all that chimmed in on the idea.


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## pdqdl (Oct 31, 2008)

My port-a-wrap is made of an odd size of metal. 2.388" outside, I suppose somebody somewhere makes 2 3/8ths tubing of some sort that might increase to 2.388" after it was plated. 2.09" (average) inside diameter gives about .15" wall thickness. I don't do enough metal fabrication to know what size tubing that would prove to be.

The length of the barrel is 9 1/2"

Don't ignore the heat consideration. Our port-a-wrap has gotten very warm to the touch. The quicker it cools, the less likely you are to damage a rope on heavy work.


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## pdqdl (Oct 31, 2008)

The seam on the loop was hidden very well, but seems to be right where the loop is welded to the main tube. 

That makes sense, since it is held on both ends of the seam by the weldment to the main tube.


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## md_tree_dood (Nov 1, 2008)

Just buy one and take the 5 hours + it's gonna take you to make one and go do a job instead


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## rbtree (Nov 1, 2008)

Have to agree, they're cheap, and the inventor/mfr gets his due.....


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## rbtree (Nov 1, 2008)

cmetalbend said:


> Weight really isn't a concern(Light) at least not that much. A peice of 2'' cold roll solid really isn't that heavy. I'm looking at D.O.M tubing it ranges 1/4 to what ever thickness. I doubt heat is a concern (coming from a rope) unless your material is really(really) thin. I'm gonna try to put the seam in the loop on either side, not at an end or in a bend. I'll try to get this project underway next week and post up the results. Thanks to all that chimmed in on the idea.



Wrong.....solid material would be a pain in real world use, way too heavy....and yes, heat is most definitely a concern.

In heavy lowering, a friction bollard can get very hot, enough to burn a rope.


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## pdqdl (Nov 1, 2008)

*Best reason I can think of for not using a solid bar*

If your attachment/hold down sling for the port-a-wrap fails abruptly, the device will become a lethal projectile. The less weight it has to carry it's momentum, the less dangerous it will be.

Not to mention how much a solid core would hurt if you dropped it on your foot.


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## OLD CHIPMONK (Nov 2, 2008)

Bought 1 from Sherrill 3 yrs. ago. Simply love it !!!!


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## masiman (Nov 3, 2008)

There was another thread that popped up from history with info on rolling your own porta-wrap.

Post 51 on page 4 has dimensions and a pic.


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## B-Edwards (Nov 3, 2008)

I have one a fellow gave me and I have never used it . It looks like he did a great job on it but I never wanted to test it. I already had one I had bought before . I felt safer using it and knowing it was tested by the maker. I wouldnt waste the time making one , I would just buy it and be done with it. Good luck.


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## cmetalbend (Nov 4, 2008)

I don't consider it wasting time, to make equipment I will later use. And for the starting price of nearly 100$ for 15 worth of material. I'll take a shot at it. I've made more dangerous stuff then this anyway. But thanks for your concern all the same.


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## pdqdl (Nov 4, 2008)

With a name like cmetalbend, I suspect that you are not new to making things out of metal, eh?


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## cmetalbend (Nov 8, 2008)

You guessed it. If I can't buy it,,,,,,,,,,,,,Build it. metal,hydralic,eletrical, are my favorites though. Send me your e-mail and I show ya some neat chit.


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## cmetalbend (Nov 11, 2008)

*Got starting on the build.*

Ok here's first pic on My Porta-wrap. It's almost 5/16 thick on the barrel, seamless DOM tubing with 5/8 Rod. The legs were made of a hard steel we use to make driveshafts at work. Or atleast the maintance dept. does.


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## TheKid (Nov 11, 2008)

looks pretty nice. i just would have made the bollard almost twice the diameter. like about the size of the hobbs. much smoother and less binding. just my opinion.


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## B-Edwards (Nov 11, 2008)

I dont think you will have any trouble with the one you have made, looks very heavy duty. I hope I didnt offend you it's just on here you never know who you are talking to , someone who can or someone who cant. From the looks of your picture , You Can!


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## cmetalbend (Nov 12, 2008)

No, no offence taken, I know EXCATLY what your sayin. I have a trailer in my yard I have to redo because 2 other guys thought they knew how to weld and or fabricate. It is by far the worst I have ever seen. And the owner hauled his $15000 motor cycle around on it,,,,,,,,once. He is a distant relative and last thanksgiving he asked my opinion. I told him I wouldn't haul a pile of scrap to the salvage on it unless it was included in the scrap. I chit you not. Anyhow, I worked on the loop today, and damn that material bent hard. No heat, 5 foot cheater bar and I barely had enough weight to do it. I figured if I didn't use any heat it would loose strenght in the bends. I post up pics soon.:greenchainsaw:


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## cmetalbend (Nov 12, 2008)

B-Edwards said:


> I dont think you will have any trouble with the one you have made, looks very heavy duty. I hope I didnt offend you it's just on here you never know who you are talking to , someone who can or someone who cant. From the looks of your picture , You Can!



That's the difference in fabricators, some think they CAN do anything, and good one's know their limits. If I question my welding/engineering, and such I take it to a person in that feild for their opinion. Somtimes I feel em out before hand. But here's a good peice of advise I live by. What I lack in welding make up for in engineering. Example---where my loop was going to pass by the barrel (Porta wrap) I thought about makeing slight notches, about 30-45% deep in the side material of barrel. In that sence the pulling stress would not only be on the weld, but the joint aswell. Anyway thanks for the comment.


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## cmetalbend (Nov 15, 2008)

*Done deal folks, here she is for your viewing pleasure.*

I glass bead blasted it as per others suggestions. Oh and thanks to all that either sent pics , made suggestions, or just razzed me for the heck of it.


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## JTinaTree (Nov 16, 2008)

cmetalbend said:


> I glass bead blasted it as per others suggestions. Oh and thanks to all that either sent pics , made suggestions, or just razzed me for the heck of it.



Here is a picture of mine, I can't get over how much yours looks like the original.. You did a great job on your copy how much time and money do you have in it??


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## cmetalbend (Nov 17, 2008)

JTinaTree said:


> Here is a picture of mine, I can't get over how much yours looks like the original.. You did a great job on your copy how much time and money do you have in it??



Far as materials-$0, all scrap, I've got $.50 for a can of pop to the buddie that did the bead blasting. And I've got to cut 3 hedge line post(his tree's) for helping me bend the end of the loop over and welding it to the barrel. I wasn't sure my Hobart was gonna get enough penitration on the DOM tubing. My time. about an hour actually (fabricating), but 5 hours searching them out here, discussing it and telling everybody what in the heck it was, and how it worked (the freinds and who all). Oh, thanks for the comment.


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