# Question on B&S Intek 206 5.5 HP OHV



## Wife'nHubby (Apr 11, 2011)

I have to do an oil change on the B&S on the splitter. What weight/kind of oil? Do I only need 1 qt. of oil?

I'm so out of the loop on oil types - I think my knowledge dropped off where people spoke of detergent vs non detergent oil and now to further confuse me I'm hearing of synthetic oil.... Oy vey!

What type/brand/qty. of oil should I get?

(dummy) Shari


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## Hedgerow (Apr 11, 2011)

Wife'nHubby said:


> I have to do an oil change on the B&S on the splitter. What weight/kind of oil? Do I only need 1 qt. of oil?
> 
> I'm so out of the loop on oil types - I think my knowledge dropped off where people spoke of detergent vs none detergent oil and now to further confuse me I'm hearing of synthetic oil.... Oy vey!
> 
> ...


 
Synthetic is good stuff for sure, but any good quality motor oil changed at the correct intervals will do the job. The 5.5 should require less than 1 quart to fill. Do you have a manual to refer to?


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## avalancher (Apr 11, 2011)

depending on your climate, I see you are a bit further north than I am, generally speaking a good 30 weight oil is best but if you have the manual look it up.I use Shell Rotilla myself, after seeing rigs come into the shop with 2.5 million miles on them and only one change of rod and main bearings, I trust it myself for anything I run.

While you are changing your oil in the Briggs, its also time for the rest of your periodic maintenance.Clean the air filter or replace it,take a sample of your hydralic oil and check for cloudiness or metal particles,grease anything that has a zerk fitting,and check the air pressure in your tires if you tow it anywere outside the yard behind a truck.Check your safety chains, lights if you have em, and wipe down all your hoses and check to make sure you dont have any seeping or weeping oil.Especially check where the hoses make tight turns and all at couplings.

A good thorough check over will save you a tone of grief when it comes to splittin time.


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## Hedgerow (Apr 11, 2011)

I use Rotella in all my equipment also. Listen to Avalancher... He's hard core about maint.. If he eats a banana, eat a banana...:hmm3grin2orange:


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## TreePointer (Apr 11, 2011)

The manual for the B&S engine on my 2009 Huskee 35-ton says to use synthetic 5W-30 for the wide temperature range in which I use it (widest range). I happen to have that oil around for my riding mower and some other engines, so that's what I use.


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## RAMROD48 (Apr 11, 2011)

Summertime 18oz of 30W SHOULD be what you need...use to call for 20oz but they have changed that...

in the winter switch to 10w30...

You dont need synthetic in that engine...


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## Wife'nHubby (Apr 11, 2011)

What a wealth of help! Thanks guys for such quick replies.

Manual - Nope don't have one/can't find it. Hubby is/was in charge of all that and now he doesn't remember where things are so I come here to the "Guys" to lead me. 

Rotilla 30w it will be -but - just to clarify - 30W is okay for summer splitting? Summer is about the only time I split.

Will check the air filter.

Tires are bad but it's a yard-only splitter.

I'm thinking about replacing the hydro fluid no matter how it tests out. It's a 1970's splitter, running fine and if just putting some fresh hydro fluid will keep it running then I don't mind the $$.


How come this engine doesn't have an oil dip stick? There's a access point for it... ?

If anyone has access to a manual for this engine I'd appreciate getting a copy of it.

Yes, I'll even buy some bananas when I'm out! 

Shari


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## TreePointer (Apr 11, 2011)

Shari,

Enter your model number here and see if it comes up for you to download:
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engines/support/operators-manuals

Those engines without dipsticks usually say to fill to top of that fill hole, but the manual will tell you precisely what to do.


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## Wife'nHubby (Apr 11, 2011)

I'm on the B&S site now trying the info I posted as title to this thread but I'm not getting anywhere.

I just went out to look at the engine for the stamped metal plate they are saying should have the #'s on it - but can't find a metal plate either.... I found a sticker that has "Family" numbers on it so I'm going to try those #'s.

I'll keep looking.

Shari


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## rmh3481 (Apr 12, 2011)

B&S's website is a little difficult to navigate because of all the engines that theyve made. Just keep the oil level to the top of the threads were you pour it in at, and that is considered full. Dont forget to change the oil in the car every few months too.


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## dingeryote (Apr 12, 2011)

Wife'nHubby said:


> What a wealth of help! Thanks guys for such quick replies.
> 
> Manual - Nope don't have one/can't find it. Hubby is/was in charge of all that and now he doesn't remember where things are so I come here to the "Guys" to lead me.
> 
> ...


 

Shari,

Had the same intec on a transfer pump. Ran it for 5 seasons as a trash pump to drain fields and flood irrigate. Many thousand hours, set on fire once, and left in the field one winter. LOL!!

Level out the motor as best you can, and fill it untill the oil runs out the fill hole. 

As for oil, Rotella is good stuff for conventional. Synthetic will make starts easier in the cold, and hold up better in the heat though.

Look for an auto value parts store in your area.
Thier house brand Synthetic is re-badged Valvoline, that sells for cheaper than most conventional oils.
We buy it by the case for the farm, and have had terrific luck with it in all of our small engines, pumps, splitter and vehicles.

AutoParts2020 :: Parts Master Motor Oil Parts Master Full Synthetic Motor Oil

While you're tinkering and shopping, write down the model# and serial # of that B&S and take it with you to the Auto value store.
They can look up and stock, just about all the maint. parts you'll need on that motor.


Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## TreePointer (Apr 12, 2011)

Here's what the manual says for the 2009 build B&S 1550 series 342cc engine on my splitter. It's the same instruction found in the operator's manual for today's B&S 206cc engines.


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## Wife'nHubby (Apr 12, 2011)

I still haven't found the 'metal tag" B&S says should be on this engine. I know we bought it at Northern Tool. I went to the NT site and their current least expensive engine looks very similar and they have a product manual there - so - I guess for now I'll be using that manual. And yes, the same info from the chart above is in the manual I'm looking at.

Tomorrows the day: Drain the oil, add a couple of fittings that will make this a little easier next time and away we go - more splitting to be done. We've split about 3+ cord in a hour here an hour there in the last week or so - fitting splitting in between son's brake job on his truck, babysitting, etc. Oh, it's lovely being retired - retired(?) - what's that? 

Shari


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## RAMROD48 (Apr 12, 2011)

Check for the numbers stamped in the cowling above the mufler or you may have to remove the plastic cover on top and it will be right above the OHV cover....

it may also be on the OHV cover itself...


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## Wife'nHubby (Apr 12, 2011)

Good thought - will do tomorrow.

Shari


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## RAMROD48 (Apr 13, 2011)

Wife'nHubby said:


> Good thought - will do tomorrow.
> 
> Shari


 
did you find it??


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## Wife'nHubby (Apr 13, 2011)

RAMROD48 said:


> Check for the numbers stamped in the cowling above the mufler or you may have to remove the plastic cover on top and it will be right above the OHV cover....
> 
> it may also be on the OHV cover itself...


 

Removed the air filter covering, behind that at the base of the muffler-ish area I finally found it *stamped* in the housing - yea gads, I was looking for a metal tag, not stamped numbers.

It is model #126312-0023-E1. I have located the manual on the B&S website and will be downloading that and keeping it somewhere where I can find it when I need it (and storing it on my computer also).

Thanks guys!

Shari


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## RAMROD48 (Apr 13, 2011)

Glad you found it...Briggs numbers are rarely on a plate...almost always stamped somplace....

Use to always be right near the spark plug...

Now i find it near the muffler on the newer units...


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## Wife'nHubby (Apr 13, 2011)

Well, I'll tell you guys, if I'd waited 2 more years on these old eyes (along with my tri-focal glasses which I already have) and reading sideways from bottom to the top the way it's printed behind the air filter bracket (yikes) I never would have found it without help from the list. 

Shari


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