# Which bar/chain for Echo CS-490



## stantonizm (Nov 9, 2018)

I've been searching for info but coming up pretty dry so far, so I figured I'd ask. I just got an Echo CS 490 off eBay on a whim. I have a 372XT for bigger stuff and wanted a saw I could tinker with and use for odds and ends stuff. 

It comes with a 20" bar which is bigger than what I'm wanting to run on it. I'm debating between 16" or 18", but leaning towards going 16". I started bar shopping though and can't hardly find any bars listed for that model. I found one a post that referenced a K216 mount, but the availability of bars seemed really limited and the ones I found with K216 in the number didn't actually list the CS 490 as a supported model. I don't want to order the wrong one.

What is a good quality aftermarket bar for this model? And what would be the optimal chain to run on a saw this size running a 16 or 18" bar in hardwood?

Thanks
James


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## Deleted member 149229 (Nov 9, 2018)

http://en.oregonproducts.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG
There’s the Oregon info. I have 18” on mine, 20” is too much. On one I converted it from the .325 to 3/8 91vxl, really cuts. The 490 definitely needs a muff mod and carb limiters removed and retune carb. Before doing that to me the 490 was a pig. Good thing the 490 muffmod is super simple and quick, look on YouTube. The 18” does well, 95% of the wood I cut is oak, ash.


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## stantonizm (Nov 9, 2018)

Dahmer said:


> http://en.oregonproducts.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG
> There’s the Oregon info. I have 18” on mine, 20” is too much. On one I converted it from the .325 to 3/8 91vxl, really cuts. The 490 definitely needs a muff mod and carb limiters removed and retune carb. Before doing that to me the 490 was a pig. Good thing the 490 muffmod is super simple and quick, look on YouTube. The 18” does well, 95% of the wood I cut is oak, ash.



Thanks! Definitely planning on doing the mods you mentioned right off the bat. 

What goes into converting the saw from .325 to 3/8?


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## Deleted member 149229 (Nov 9, 2018)

Had to buy a rim for the 3/8 and a bar for 3/8. I got the rim from https://performanceoutdoorequipment.com/m/index.htm.
I took an 18” Echo 400 bar and shortened the tail so that 18” chain from a 400 would fit. Now I can run same chain on 400 and 490 and the 490 screams with that chain on. Call Nate at the shop to purchase the conversion rim.


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## stantonizm (Nov 9, 2018)

Dahmer said:


> Had to buy a rim for the 3/8 and a bar for 3/8. I got the rim from https://performanceoutdoorequipment.com/m/index.htm.
> I took an 18” Echo 400 bar and shortened the tail so that 18” chain from a 400 would fit. Now I can run same chain on 400 and 490 and the 490 screams with that chain on. Call Nate at the shop to purchase the conversion rim.



That may be a little more involved than I’m comfortable going just yet. Any recommendations for .325 chain for it? Is the chain oddball or fairly standard?


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## Deleted member 149229 (Nov 9, 2018)

The conversion isn’t hard. Just pop the e-clip, pull the washer, pull the rim, put new rim on, put washer on, reinstall e-clip. Done. To shorten the tail just clamp it in a vise and shorten the tail with a grinder until you can get the chain on, just takes a little time fitting it. If you’re going to stay with the .325 look on eBay for 20lpx0–, the 2 hyphens will be how many drive links, that depends on what bar you use and the Oregon chart tells you how many drive links for each size bar.


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## stantonizm (Nov 9, 2018)

Dahmer said:


> The conversion isn’t hard. Just pop the e-clip, pull the washer, pull the rim, put new rim on, put washer on, reinstall e-clip. Done. To shorten the tail just clamp it in a vise and shorten the tail with a grinder until you can get the chain on, just takes a little time fitting it. If you’re going to stay with the .325 look on eBay for 20lpx0–, the 2 hyphens will be how many drive links, that depends on what bar you use and the Oregon chart tells you how many drive links for each size bar.



Does it require re-cutting the amount holes too, or literally just shortening with a grinder? That I could probably handle. And you just start with an 18” that’ll fit the CS-400? Sorry for all the questions


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## Deleted member 149229 (Nov 9, 2018)

stantonizm said:


> Does it require re-cutting the amount holes too, or literally just shortening with a grinder? That I could probably handle. And you just start with an 18” that’ll fit the CS-400? Sorry for all the questions


Asking is only way you learn. Just grind the bar, make sure to clean up any sharp edges and clean any hanging burrs. Yep, 18” Echo 400 bar. When you go to do it and have any questions just pm me. I can walk you thru it and send a pic of what the finish bar looks like. When you put the finished bar on and tighten the chain up make sure to lift the front of the bar while tightening to keep oil holes lined up. Also with a new chain make sure you check chain tension after a couple cuts until initial stretch is gone.


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## stantonizm (Nov 10, 2018)

I was looking at the 3/8 rims. Didn’t see them on the linked site, but found them elsewhere. There seem to be a lot of options on those as well. Do you know the measurements of the correct one?


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## Deleted member 149229 (Nov 10, 2018)

It’s custom made. Call Nate.


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## James Miller (Nov 10, 2018)

Stihl pico rim modified by @Homelite410.
16" cs310 bar
Pretty straightforward


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## James Miller (Nov 10, 2018)

Dahmer said:


> Asking is only way you learn. Just grind the bar, make sure to clean up any sharp edges and clean any hanging burrs. Yep, 18” Echo 400 bar. When you go to do it and have any questions just pm me. I can walk you thru it and send a pic of what the finish bar looks like. When you put the finished bar on and tighten the chain up make sure to lift the front of the bar while tightening to keep oil holes lined up. Also with a new chain make sure you check chain tension after a couple cuts until initial stretch is gone.


Shouldnt have to do any grinding with the echo bars. Didnt need to do anything to the bars I used to make it work.


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## stantonizm (Nov 10, 2018)

Would this house-brand bar from Baileys work? I like the black bar. If not, what would be the highest quality bar that would fit on one. It looked like the Oregon replacement parts were designated as “occasional use”. Which, I will be using it only occasionally, but would rather use the best parts I can.
*
“WoodlandPRO 16" ArborMAX Bar & Chain Combo Universal Mount (56 Drive Links) WPA 16 UM50 / WPL 30LP56”*


http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaw-Bars/Professional-Sprocket-Nose-Guide-Bars/WoodlandPRO-Chainsaw-Bars/WoodlandPRO-ArborMAX-Bar-Chain-Combos/WoodlandPRO-16-ArborMAX-Bar-Chain-Combo-Universal-Mount-56-Drive-Links-WPA-16-UM50-WPL-30LP56.axd


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## James Miller (Nov 10, 2018)

I'm not sure I've only run the echo/Oregon bar and an old 2300 poulan bar on mine.


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## Rybot (Nov 10, 2018)

I run this on my 501p (same saw basically):

https://www.baileysonline.com/Chain...ainsaw-Bar-and-Chain-Combo-72-Drive-Links.axd

Narrow kerf so it's a bit more forgiving in the cut. Seems to work well!


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## Huskitoter (Nov 10, 2018)

Rybot said:


> I run this on my 501p (same saw basically):
> 
> Narrow kerf so it's a bit more forgiving in the cut. Seems to work well!




I was just wondering about an NK b/c for those when you posted. That's what I prefer for 50cc. Bonus of not having to change the sprocket.


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## James Miller (Nov 10, 2018)

The NK setup is good also from what I heard. I went 3/8lp because it matched the 355t and maid for one less file to carry when out cutting.


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## Deleted member 149229 (Nov 10, 2018)

James Miller said:


> Shouldnt have to do any grinding with the echo bars. Didnt need to do anything to the bars I used to make it work.


The Echo 400 18” bar had to have the tail shortened so that the 400 18” chain would fit.


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## stantonizm (Nov 10, 2018)

I’m still having trouble deciding between an 18” with NK or LP or a plain 16” .325. I’d have more options chain-wise with the 16” .325, it would take care of most anything I’d need, and I have sharpeners available for it. But having a lite weight 18” seems like it would have advantages too. Would the files/rotary stones for a standard .325 work on an NK chain?


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## stubnail67 (Nov 10, 2018)

i have a narrow kerf from bailys 16 inch .325 same bar for a cs 500p and the same bar for a poulan 295/4620.... and it rips..... i have thought about doing the conversion as i have a ton of lopro bars and chains....it will pull an 18 or a 16 but the 16 it screams.... 20 is a lil much....


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## stubnail67 (Nov 10, 2018)

James Miller said:


> The NK setup is good also from what I heard. I went 3/8lp because it matched the 355t and maid for one less file to carry when out cutting.


this is another reason im going to eventually do the conversion....other then my 590 and 490 and big poulans every thing i own is 3/8s lopro .....


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## stantonizm (Nov 10, 2018)

I was looking at the Baileys Wooland Pro NKs, then started looking at the Oregon Pro-Lite Micro-lite w/ the TXL chain too.


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## stubnail67 (Nov 10, 2018)

this is how it looks with the narrow kerf 325 from baileys.... cuts great... but for me im going to eventually convert it.... just as i have so much lopro stuff on hand.....


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## stantonizm (Nov 10, 2018)

If your only going to have one saw running the smaller chain, is there any advantage to 3/8LP over .325 NK on the 18”?

I think if I stick with 16” I’ll just use .325. I imagine the chain would be a lot easier to source locally if I needed it.


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## stubnail67 (Nov 10, 2018)

stantonizm said:


> If your only going to have one saw running the smaller chain, is there any advantage to 3/8LP over .325 NK on the 18”?
> 
> I think if I stick with 16” I’ll just use .325. I imagine the chain would be a lot easier to source locally if I needed it.


3/8s lopro is everywhere.....walmart depot lowes .325 is good just buy them 3 or 4 at a time....


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## Deleted member 149229 (Nov 10, 2018)

stubnail67 said:


> 3/8s lopro is everywhere.....walmart depot lowes .325 is good just buy them 3 or 4 at a time....


The lp can be bought anywhere, not so much the .325.


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## James Miller (Nov 10, 2018)

stantonizm said:


> If your only going to have one saw running the smaller chain, is there any advantage to 3/8LP over .325 NK on the 18”?
> 
> I think if I stick with 16” I’ll just use .325. I imagine the chain would be a lot easier to source locally if I needed it.


I ordered my 490 with a 16 because I already had a ported 590. The 490 does fine with a 16"325 setup. My 490 probly gets more run time then all my other saws combined. The biggest benefit I notice with the conversion is an obvious loss of weight hanging off the front of the saw. You wouldn't think it would be that much difference but you notice it the first time you pick up the saw.


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## stantonizm (Nov 12, 2018)

I ended up ordering a 16” Oregon Pro-Lite bar and a loop of 25LPX and an 18” Oregon Micro-Lite Pro NK with a loop of 95TXL. I’m hoping the skinny 18” will balance and cut well and be my go-to. If not I got the regular 16” as backup. I was gonna do the 3/8LP but got in a hurry and could run the others without additional modification.


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## stantonizm (Nov 27, 2018)

Does the CS 490 have a limited coil? I think I have it tuned ok with a tach but haven't cut anything with it yet. It's idling around 2800 and WOT with no load peaks at about 12200 RPM. Does that sound pretty reasonable?


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## James Miller (Nov 27, 2018)

The manual says between 11k and 12.5k.


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## Deleted member 149229 (Nov 27, 2018)

stantonizm said:


> Does the CS 490 have a limited coil? I think I have it tuned ok with a tach but haven't cut anything with it yet. It's idling around 2800 and WOT with no load peaks at about 12200 RPM. Does that sound pretty reasonable?


Sounds good. Max rpm is listed at 12,500, I have mine at 12,300.


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## James Miller (Nov 27, 2018)

Have no idea what mine runs at.


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## stantonizm (Nov 27, 2018)

Well apparently what I had it set at last night wasn’t right because it’s not wanting to run in the cold today. It starts and idles fine but bogs down when I throttle it up. I’ll mess with it again here in a little bit I guess.


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## Deleted member 149229 (Nov 27, 2018)

Temperature will change your tune because of the difference in air density.


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## James Miller (Nov 27, 2018)

stantonizm said:


> Well apparently what I had it set at last night wasn’t right because it’s not wanting to run in the cold today. It starts and idles fine but bogs down when I throttle it up. I’ll mess with it again here in a little bit I guess.


If it bogs off idle turn the low side jet 1/8 turn richer its probably a little lean do to the cold weather.


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## stantonizm (Nov 27, 2018)

I went a quarter turn richer on the high side and it sounded like it was running pretty strong.


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## stantonizm (Dec 3, 2018)

I tried cutting a little with it today and adjusting the carb. I got it to where I thought it sounded pretty good and recorded it so those more knowledgeable could comment.


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## Deleted member 149229 (Dec 3, 2018)

I’m half deaf so I use a tach but it was sure piling up chips.


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## James Miller (Dec 3, 2018)

Sounds good to me can hear it 4 stroke when you lift a little which is what you want. Sometimes its easier to pick up the 4 stroking sound better watching a video then running the saw.


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## stantonizm (Dec 3, 2018)

It seemed to cut well. I think it’s going to be a really handy saw. I have the 16” .325 bar with Oregon full chisel on it right now. I have to send back my narrow kerf bar because I clicked the wrong mount when I ordered. Doh!


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## stantonizm (Aug 11, 2019)

Update:

So after 9 months, I was finally able to get ahold of a narrow kerf bar with a K216 mount. Nate at https://www.performanceoutdoorequipment.com/ was able to get me one of the new 18” Oregon Speedcut bars. Got it hooked up with a loop of Husqvarna SP33G. The balance is great and I like the feel better than the 16” bar I had on it. Hopefully I’ll get a chance to cut with it afterwhile and post up a video.


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## stantonizm (Aug 26, 2019)

Got to test out the new combo this past weekend on a ~17" diameter dead maple in a neighbors yard. It died last year sometime and was bone dry. Making the backcut was a little spotty. Once the bar was in full depth, the chain would lock up and I'd have to back it out and get it spinning pretty good before it made contact to cut again. I don't know if it was getting pinched, I was bending the bar, or the wood was just too much and too hard. Once the tree was down, it really ripped through it and I didn't have any problems.


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