# Asplundh Chipper Help - Manuals



## Warteetee (May 12, 2007)

I just picked up a 16" Whisper chipper this week. I am very new to chipping and this is my first attempt. The engine is strong and the drum is very nice and quiet. The problem is the blades are very dull. I am looking for the manuals to learn how to change the blades and what the settings should be to chip fast.

Also, I bought this 16" because I thought that it could handle a 16" log - is that case - if not, what size can this type of unit chew up? I am chipping hundreds of 40ft red pines - almost no limbs - just the wood.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## Warteetee (May 12, 2007)

As a follow-up, this might sound like a dumb question, but the unit came with 28 brand new 12" blades - yes, 12" and not the 16" that should be on the unit. Given the way the wedge works, is it OK to center the 12" blades and use them on the 16" drum - leaving 2" on each side that has no blade.

16" drum with 12" blades? Possible? Potential issues (vibration?)

Thanks


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## Dadatwins (May 12, 2007)

First off this should be posted in arbo 101 or an equipment forum. DO NOT use a 12" blade in a 16" chipper, get the manual and the right blade. The blades must be torque to spec and set properly. If the blades are that chewed up the cutter bar is probably in bad shape also and needs to be serviced. That chipper will not chip a 16" anything. It is a BRUSH chipper. Meant for chipping up brush and tree limbs. There is no way to stop the material once it hits the blades so it needs to be the right length or the machine will clog up. 6" diameter at 15' long is a safe guess, experience and use will tell you otherwise. be careful, those whisper machines are very efficient and dangerous, they will eat in seconds anything that contacts those blades.


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## begleytree (May 12, 2007)

Warteetee said:


> As a follow-up, this might sound like a dumb question, but the unit came with 28 brand new 12" blades - yes, 12" and not the 16" that should be on the unit. Given the way the wedge works, is it OK to center the 12" blades and use them on the 16" drum - leaving 2" on each side that has no blade.
> 
> 16" drum with 12" blades? Possible? Potential issues (vibration?)
> 
> Thanks



stop a minute and think. these are asplundh blades. held in by a tightened wedge. sharp enough to easily cut wood. turning at a very high rate of speed and you are there. now, do you really want to put the wrong blade in your chipper and run it up to 3500 RPM? still want to be standing there when one or more goes flying? they will easily shred the metal chute. any guesses what they will do to you?
Didn't think so. sell the 12" blades.

OK, now for changing them.
place ignition keys in your pocket.
remove the chute and flip foreward out of the way. unbolt the bottom 3 bolt at the chute/drum. flip this out of the way backwards.
you will see 5 allen head bolts on the 16" chipper. 4 are perfectly spaced and one is out of spacing. the spaced ones are long, and hold the wedge. the other is short. you remove this one and replace with a long bolt to push the wedge up. trust me here, a air compressor and impact wrench will be a big help.
repeat on all 4 blades. engage clutch when you get the bolts where you can work on them, take off and turn, then repeat.
take blades to machine shop for sharpening, there is a sponsor here who does that too, and would prob want your incorrect blades too
when you get your sharpened blades back, let us know. 
surely someone will know about manuals. yours should be a '75-80 model if memory serves. don't forget to show us pics of it too!
-Ralph


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## Warteetee (May 12, 2007)

I knew it was stupid - would not want to put the wrong blads in such a unit. 

It makes my stomach sick that I bought this in the first place now that I know that I can't ship the wood that I have to chip - that was the only reason I bought the unit.

I will post a few picks tomorrow when the rain stops and I put the shoot back on.

Looks likie she is going back up for sale for she won't do the job I got her for.


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## begleytree (May 12, 2007)

what job did you get her for that she wont do? those are pretty indestructable machines. I'd love to have one for a backup chipper.
-Ralph


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## Warteetee (May 12, 2007)

Our new place got hit by an ice storm which knocked down about 200 40ft pines. I have already layed them down and taken care of the limbs. Now, all I have left are the logs - I have cut them into 5 foot lengths and they range from 6' to 16" in diameter. We live in a no burn county so burning is not an option and renting was $250/8 hours. Now I see why since my unit isn't anything like what they are renting.


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## begleytree (May 12, 2007)

your chipper will handle those. the 6" to 10" stuff it will eat, the stuff over 10", I would rip in half and feed. that V-8 has the power to chip that pine easily, especially cut into 5' lengths. get your blades sharpened, and chip away.
-Ralph


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## Warteetee (May 12, 2007)

*Asplundh 16"*

Ralph - thanks for the information. You just about saved my evening. I would say 90% of what I have to chip is 10" or under so if I can get the 90% done, I can bury or use the rest in the barn heater.
Thanks again and once I get the blades off - they will go to a sharpener - any suggestions in Pennsylvania around the Lancaster area?
Thanks again


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## Warteetee (May 12, 2007)

*Asplundh 16"*

Ralph - forgot to add that this unit has the Ford 300 6 cylinder - still enough power.

Also regarding the site post location - I am a home owner and this unit was purchased to clear the wood at out house following an ice storm. I did the buy verse rent calculations and buying a used unit seemed much better.

Thanks


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## begleytree (May 12, 2007)

yeah, you're still in good shape. get those blades sharpened up to reduce bogging and it will run cooler as well, and feed starting with the smaller stuff. you'll get the feel of what it can handle and when you're reaching it's limit.
Be sure to stand to the side of the feed table when feeding the logs. trust me, your nads will thank you when a block come flying back out at just the right heigth and way too fast.
imo, you'll still be way ahead of the renting game. as a general rule, rental units are not the right equipment usually, and are almost always in dire need of maintence. you think your blades are dull.....

while you're in there pulling the blades, remove the cutter bar as well. big square block of metal, and take it in with the blades and have them true it up too. 
soon you'll have more nice clean pine chips than you can use areound the property, plus you'll have a good solid chipper for whenever anything comes up. you can also rent it out to to other homeowners, and/or work it on their brushpiles in your spare time to offset the initial cost of purchasing it.
-Ralph


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## Warteetee (May 12, 2007)

*Dull Blades or Bad Cutter Bar*

Ralph - you speak of the cutter bar. When I checked the blades none of them had any dings or chips. It is certainly sharper than a butter knife but certainly not as sharp as a razor. Could my problem be with the cutter bar and not the blades?

Also, renting out. Is there much liability with this option?


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## begleytree (May 12, 2007)

the blades as you describe them are due for sharpening. you dont want to wait until they are shot to have them sharpened, they would have to remove too much material. if the blades are so shapr you fear running a finger lightly across the edge, they are about right. 
feeding problems are usually associated with the cutter bar, and the blade to cutter bar settings. the CB will tend to wear in the middle and not pull brush into the machine like it should.
If you're planning to pull the blades and CB tomorrow, go out tonite and spray the bolts down with WD-40 or another penetrating oil. it will make life easier tomorrow.

rental liability? well, honestly, there are better people than myself to talk with that about. maybe the best thing would be for you to use it and let them watch, or at least drag brush to you to feed.
-Ralph


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## Ed Roland (May 12, 2007)

War, Just my 2 pennies here. 
I have one of these chippers and they are WIDOW MAKERS for the uninitiated! Be extremely careful when operating. Make sure you feed this thing from the side and toss the debris into the blades while you vear away from the unit. Dont let the blades pull it from your grasp. Do not wear 'gauntlet' style gloves as they could catch on a stob and pull you through. Wear eye and ear protection. Dont toss in vines and have someone on the site but well away from the unit. 
Good luck and have some fun but please be careful.


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## Warteetee (May 12, 2007)

Woodweasel - now that I have the unit and hear some of the issues - I am a little, actually, very nervous to use this unit. I am going to rig up a kill switch in the back area so I at least can kill it is something happens.


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## begleytree (May 12, 2007)

woodweasel said:


> War, Just my 2 pennies here.
> I have one of these chippers and they are WIDOW MAKERS for the uninitiated! Be extremely careful when operating. Make sure you feed this thing from the side and toss the debris into the blades while you vear away from the unit. Dont let the blades pull it from your grasp. Do not wear 'gauntlet' style gloves as they could catch on a stob and pull you through. Wear eye and ear protection. Dont toss in vines and have someone on the site but well away from the unit.
> Good luck and have some fun but please be careful.



Very good advice! I was actually approaching this from the standpoint that he had already used it a lot to chip the brush, hence he now knows that his blades are dull, or that he has to fight it a bit to get it to take the brush, and wasn't looking foreward to chipping the logs with it acting this way. 
It was an assumption on my part, and there's a good possability that my assumption was incorrect.
By all means, War, Be a little bit more than careful, never get complacent, and always respect the machine. one mistake can get very ugly very quickly.
-Ralph


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## begleytree (May 12, 2007)

Warteetee said:


> Woodweasel - now that I have the unit and hear some of the issues - I am a little, actually, very nervous to use this unit. I am going to rig up a kill switch in the back area so I at least can kill it is something happens.



Don't bother making modifications to it. even killing the engine will allow the blades to coast for a long time, and still have plenty of power while coasting to chip a body. 
respect is the key, not modifications. treat it with kid gloves and act like its a rabid dog that will bite you if given the chance. because it will.
fear is a good thing, let it turn into respect, and never lose that.
-Ralph

edit: if its any consolation, of all the chipper deaths in the US, none are from 'chuck and duck' chippers like yours. they all involve self feeders. those can cause a man to get complacent due to the illusion of total control of the feeding and chipping process.


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## Warteetee (May 12, 2007)

*Cutter bar costs*

Any idea what cutter bars run for these units?


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## begleytree (May 12, 2007)

Warteetee said:


> Any idea what cutter bars run for these units?



Just get yours trued up. wont say never, but theres rarely any need for total replacement of the cutter bar. its just wood being drug across the CB causing wear, and wood across metal takes a while to wear, and the CBs hold up real well. sometimes they just need trued. remember, you only use the top outside edge. once trued, you have 4 edges to use before trueing again.
-Ralph


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## Warteetee (May 12, 2007)

I bought the chipper on Thursday, started it for the first time yesterday and stopped after about 10 minutes because I had a log which was about 10 feet long and I and push form the side and I was pushing hard ot get it to do anything. In fact, after about 30 seconds the wood started to smoke like one of those wood burning kits. There is no doubt it was very dangerous ith the amount of pressure I was putting on this unit - It didn't take anything - only what I forced and nothing more. Seeing it was dangerous, I stoped right away.

I have had the shipper for about 2 days now.

Thanks


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## Ed Roland (May 12, 2007)

begleytree said:


> Don't bother making modifications to it. even killing the engine will allow the blades to coast for a long time, and still have plenty of power while coasting to chip a body.
> respect is the key, not modifications. treat it with kid gloves and act like its a rabid dog that will bite you if given the chance. because it will.
> fear is a good thing, let it turn into respect, and never lose that.
> -Ralph.



Thats a mighty fine posting. I'll be giving some rep, shortly.
I didn't know that about the self-feeds, but it makes a lot of sense.


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## begleytree (May 12, 2007)

http://www.tskgrinding.com/wood_chipper_safety.asp


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## Warteetee (May 12, 2007)

Thanks for the link - The one thing I am stil missing is the manual for this beast. I am coming at this from a bad point of view - this is the first chipper I have ever used - little or small - and I don't know anything about the machine. I have left several messages for Altec to obtain a manual but that has gone knowhere.

What is the smallest "log" you would insert into the hopper? I have a pile of pine that I went all the way and cut into logs - I assume if is very unsafe to throw them in to chip.


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## ropensaddle (May 13, 2007)

The machines like you have are awesome chippers
When you get wedges and blades out you will find they 
rest on adjustable bolts! These are to set blades out from
rotor at proper distance. There is a margin guide on the outer 
case; lay the blades in and adjust them to around the margin
or just hair below, by sliding blade from one side to the other
and adjusting holder to push blade to position. This step is 
sometimes missed by people and will make chipper not perform
as it is designed to as it sets blade. Then you set cutter bar to
the blades and turn rotor backwards while getting it set and set
clearance as close as possible without them making contact.
Also after torquing turn backwards a few turns to make sure 
blades do not contact bar and you have one bad chipper.
I have used these over twenty years and they are safe if proper
used, but beware of wire in your work area anything that could get 
hung in rotor and pull you in, rope ,barbwire etc.


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## ropensaddle (May 13, 2007)

begleytree said:


> Don't bother making modifications to it. even killing the engine will allow the blades to coast for a long time, and still have plenty of power while coasting to chip a body.
> respect is the key, not modifications. treat it with kid gloves and act like its a rabid dog that will bite you if given the chance. because it will.
> fear is a good thing, let it turn into respect, and never lose that.
> -Ralph
> ...


 Yeah my thoughts too why do the drums
get the bad rep they last and last that is what is important to me and 
safety is mostly operator.


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## Warteetee (May 13, 2007)

*Blades*

Is it true that all of the blades must be exactly/very close to the same weight or the machine will be out of whack? Guess the question comes down to if I get these sharpened - do they have to weight them and make sure they are spot on in weight? Is there a point where the blades (which started out at 3" wide) should not be sharpened again - 2.5, 2.75, 2.0?

Thanks for the information on how to set the blades in. I took out the top bolts to one of the blades last night. Now I am going to use the long one in the short hole to get that out. Guestion about that - Does the long bolt make contact with the drum through the wedge - is that the method of pushing it up through direct pressure of the bolt/drum?
Thanks


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## ropensaddle (May 13, 2007)

Warteetee said:


> Is it true that all of the blades must be exactly/very close to the same weight or the machine will be out of whack? Guess the question comes down to if I get these sharpened - do they have to weight them and make sure they are spot on in weight? Is there a point where the blades (which started out at 3" wide) should not be sharpened again - 2.5, 2.75, 2.0?
> 
> Thanks for the information on how to set the blades in. I took out the top bolts to one of the blades last night. Now I am going to use the long one in the short hole to get that out. Guestion about that - Does the long bolt make contact with the drum through the wedge - is that the method of pushing it up through direct pressure of the bolt/drum?
> Thanks


I'm not sure about weight but width of blades can reach replacement. They also need to be sharpened at the proper angle and I would recommend selecting a pro that has a lappit machine and experience in their sharpening. Yes the long bolt does push through to rotor to remove wedge then take a pic and clean all bolt access holes out sap and wood will compact in these areas. The adjuster bolts I mentioned have access holes in rotor so you can adjust blades from bottom! I have never paid too much attention to torque and tighten wedges as tight as I can with a break over you don't want them to come out. Also go back over them start middle go back to check they often meed to be tightened twice! 
I use air to get out but tighten final by hand so I know they are tight. If allen bolt even appears to be wore replace bolt these are a bitty to get out the next time and if strip a torch will become necessity. Cutter bar adjusts under the unit in case you have not figured that out.


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## begleytree (May 13, 2007)

the 4 long bolts when in position pass thru the wedge and bolt into the drum. the short one is threaded into the wedge to block debris out of the hole. the long bolt will thread into the wedge and make contact with the drum, forcing the wedge up and out. this usually takes a few hits with an impact, or a lot of turning with a breakerbar. there are easier brands of drum chippers to change the blades in and setting the hiegth is easier on other brands too, but the asplundh whisper chipper is a good solid chipper that you will use for many years to come.
-Ralph


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## Warteetee (May 14, 2007)

*Chipper Blades - Stuck Bolt*

Ralph,

I got out 15 of the 16 bolts with a little elbow grease. The 16th does not have square edges and the wrench just turns. Do you have any tricks to get a turned bolt out?
Thanks again ofr all of the advice.


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## ropensaddle (May 14, 2007)

allen head stripped out? If so I know of two ways to get
out try tack welding a allen wrench to bolt and if that don't
work carefully torch the bolt without cutting wedge. Is it 
one of the long bolts?


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## ropensaddle (May 14, 2007)

If it is a long bolt after cutting bolt head with torch
screw in long bolt to push wedge enough to loosen it
and wiggle wedge off of remaining bolt. Once you have
wedge out channel locks will usually get the rest of bolt
out!


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## ropensaddle (May 14, 2007)

If it is the short bolt try to beat wedge to loosen it 
wd 40 and a blunt drift tap on wedge to get it out once you
have loose it and have out take it to machine shop and pay 
them to extract it!


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## Warteetee (May 14, 2007)

*Turned Bolt*

It is one of the long bolts on the far end. There is just a little left to hold onto, I will try tacking the wrench on and getting it out that way. Where is a good spot to buy replacement bolts for the wedge - the 4 long bolts?
Thanks


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## begleytree (May 14, 2007)

Rope has it on the stuck bolts. usually the heat from the tack weld combined with a good grip on it brings it out. try to cut off a piece of 3/8 allen shank and weld that into the bolthead, then take a 3/8 socket and break it loose.
yeah, it makes a difference if its a short or long bolt. in a way. they all still have to come out as it were.

I get my replacements at the machine shop myself. they have grade 8 allen heads here that are an exact match. surely yours does too.
-Ralph


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## Warteetee (May 14, 2007)

*Bolt Ain't Coming Out*

Welded on the shank m- nice and tight. One turn of the allen and it snapped in half (guess a pretty good weld). Now I got a welded on allens to a bolt which I can't get out. What next?

I also found a place to do my blades which does the blades for the rental places and the printing presses - 12$ for the 16" blade - sounds like a good deal if they do a solid job.


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## Warteetee (May 14, 2007)

*Forget the last post*

This forum is to learn about chippers, wood and the such - not for me to ask about getting out a stupid stuck bolt.

Sorry for the misplaced post about my machine issus. I will keep future postes to those dealing with arbo-issues.


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## begleytree (May 14, 2007)

everythings cool War. I moved the thread yesterday. putting subjects in the correct forums keeps this place looking like it has some semblance of order, and nets a topic better answers and views by responders who can help you with your issues. 
by all means continue to post your chipper experiences here. this is where they should be, and perhaps between the users we can help you, and maybe someone else in your postition as well.


RE: stuck bolt. all I know of now is you need to use the heat wrench. put a deflector of some sort behind the bolt to keep most of the heat off the bearings. imo, you won't hurt them, but the rubber seals on the bearings can't take much heat, and will cause you to lose grease leading to a bearing failure. the drum is a big solid chuck of metal, so it can take a lot of heat, just keep the flame from going down between the machine and drum onto the spindle and you'll be fine. heat usually cures all with these I've found.
-Ralph


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## Warteetee (May 14, 2007)

I think I will call in my neighbor for I do not want to mess this machine up. I will keep you posted as to if I get this bolt out.

By the way, is $12 to sharpen these 16" blades a good deal?

Thanks again


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## begleytree (May 14, 2007)

My guy charges $1 an inch. my blades are double sided so thats 60 total inches. at $12 per set, your guys is charging 0.18 per inch, or if its $12 per blade, thats still cheaper at 0.75 per inch than I'm paying.
yeah, either way you're doing ok.
heres where most of us get our replacement blades, BTW. http://www.zenithcutter.com/product...parts.cfm?machineName=ASPLUNDH&model=16" DRUM 
-Ralph


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## Warteetee (May 14, 2007)

Thanks for the post, given this is my first chipper, I am going to buy a new set from your post and just keep my olds ones for later honing - thanks for the link


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## Warteetee (May 15, 2007)

Just got a new set of knives from Zenith - can't wait to get the lone bolt out and new blades - getting there.


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## Warteetee (May 15, 2007)

Sorry, it was $12 per blade. Looks like it is not too much of a deal. I bought the new blades instead. Cheers


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## begleytree (May 15, 2007)

Warteetee said:


> Sorry, it was $12 per blade. Looks like it is not too much of a deal. I bought the new blades instead. Cheers



you are running into the same thing we all do. I can get mine sharpened at $60 + tax and could buy new ones for $68 +shipping, so it was a no brainer. now new blade prices have risen and thats bringing sharpening back into consideration. my guy is kinda cheap at $1/inch, but some guys pay more and its about the same price to buy new ones. others get good deals sharpening and go that route when they can.
imo, everyone should have a spare set sharp and ready to go anyway, so you're not out anything. get that cutter bar trued up though.
-Ralph


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## ropensaddle (May 15, 2007)

Sorry to hear you are having trouble bolt should have been
changed at least you won't make that mistake a bolt is cheap
compared to time getting stuck one out. I have torched out a
few with no problems by cutting the heads off them and getting 
wedge out that way as beg mentioned the rotor drum and wedges
heat slower than the bolt and bolt head can be melted out wedge
pryed out! You then will end up with a stud sticking out of drum
and is easier to remove with channel locks and heat! If you do this
just put fire on bolt head only and gradually melt using oxygen just
a little at a time until no head is left. then drive in long bolt in short
hole to loosen wedge and wiggle pry until wedge is out let drum and
wedge cool slowly as to not temper them and should work it has for me.


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## Warteetee (May 15, 2007)

I have a new cutter bar and another one that does not have as sharp of edges. Once I get the last bolt for the blades out I will replace the cutter bar wiht one of the new ones.

Still thinking about one of the posts before about this machine being a widow maker - yikes.


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## begleytree (May 15, 2007)

I put my chipper blade bolts in with antiseize and have had no further problems with stuck bolts. I also use it on sparkplugs too, metal into aluminum thing..
anyone else use that stuff on theirs too? at $15 a can it's not cheap, but a can will last you the rest of your life.
-Ralph


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## ropensaddle (May 15, 2007)

The last time I did one the stud was easy to turn
after wedge came out some people put anti seize
on these to make breaking down easier but I just
replace bolt at first sign of wear as am afraid anti
seize could cause bots to loosen and I have seen 
a chipper that lost wedge was not pretty and I 
would not want to be near one. I have never had
mine come apart but I double tighten every bolt to
make sure tight. Sorry beg you must have been typing
and posted before mine anti seize must be ok if beg 
has used it with no problems I may change my practice.


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## begleytree (May 15, 2007)

ropensaddle said:


> The last time I did one the stud was easy to turn
> after wedge came out some people put anti seize
> on these to make breaking down easier but I just
> replace bolt at first sign of wear as am afraid anti
> ...



I too have seen that, it was a mitts & merrill and the blade shreded the chute and flew off into the direction of a trailer park. we never found it. at that time a man was shoveling rakings into the back of the truck and the blade went right over his head (by the shred marks)
I have never had anything losen from using anti-sieze on it. imo, you get a better torque due to less grabby resistance on the bolt itself and it seats down harder instead of hitting a tight spot and tripping the torque wrench.
thats why its recommended that you put the copper seal RTV on your engine head to block bolts as well. smoother torque down and more reliable torque readings.
-Ralph


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## rbtree (May 15, 2007)

Never had a bolt loosen from using antiseize.....have used it for years.


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## ropensaddle (May 15, 2007)

Warteetee said:


> I have a new cutter bar and another one that does not have as sharp of edges. Once I get the last bolt for the blades out I will replace the cutter bar wiht one of the new ones.
> 
> Still thinking about one of the posts before about this machine being a widow maker - yikes.


Don't let that fool you the truth is they are safe if you respect them and will work and chip years after new types are junk.Right under widow maker beg replied that the only fatalities were caused by slow feed types not the type you have but make no mistake if you get your hand or other part of your body to the drum bad things will happen. I ask you are you stupid enough to do that? I didn't think so as you are here and asking for help so you know to respect it and am sure you will do fine.


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## ropensaddle (May 15, 2007)

begleytree said:


> I too have seen that, it was a mitts & merrill and the blade shreded the chute and flew off into the direction of a trailer park. we never found it. at that time a man was shoveling rakings into the back of the truck and the blade went right over his head (by the shred marks)
> I have never had anything losen from using anti-sieze on it. imo, you get a better torque due to less grabby resistance on the bolt itself and it seats down harder instead of hitting a tight spot and tripping the torque wrench.
> thats why its recommended that you put the copper seal RTV on your engine head to block bolts as well. smoother torque down and more reliable torque readings.
> -Ralph


 Thanks beg I may use it next time already have some 
have used on lots of other things but spooked on chipper and as I said
I get them as tight as I can that Is my torque and has never failed me!
I do heads as you mentioned and do torque them usually five pounds over
recommended as I like them sealed.


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## Warteetee (May 18, 2007)

I got the last wedge bolt out with the hot wrench and that part is done. The lifters were in there pretty good and at this point I have two that are soaking in some penatrant to get them to come out. Wouldn't you guess that those which are stuck were under the same wedge with the seized bolt. I bet this was the wedge that was facing up and got some rain and age to it. I will be working on that tonight.

Now, how does the cutter bar come off - two bolts from the underside?

Thanks and got some anti-seize and will use that on all the bolts when they go back in (all new bolts that is).

Also ordered a new set of blades from Zenith - should arrive next week. From previous posts, the blades should be extend just to the rides of the drum and obviously not hit the cutter bar? Anything else to look for?

Thanks again - I'm slowly getting there - can't wait to use it!


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## Warteetee (May 18, 2007)

New cutter bar goes on tomorrow, blades due in. Just down to the last two stuck risers.

Thanks again for all of your help.


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## begleytree (May 23, 2007)

War, How'd it go? did you get your new blades in and set? been using it?
-Ralph


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## Warteetee (May 23, 2007)

I am having a hell of a time getting two blade adjusters ut so I am stuck right now. I bought new blades from Zenith and got a new cutter bar - so once I get the two adjuster bolts out I can put her back together and go to work.

Hope to get the bolts out this week and get it working- starting to get a little frustrated with the stuck bolts - busted several allen wrenches on them.


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## begleytree (May 23, 2007)

Warteetee said:


> I am having a hell of a time getting two blade adjusters ut so I am stuck right now. I bought new blades from Zenith and got a new cutter bar - so once I get the two adjuster bolts out I can put her back together and go to work.
> 
> Hope to get the bolts out this week and get it working- starting to get a little frustrated with the stuck bolts - busted several allen wrenches on them.



If memory serves the adjusters thread all the way thru the drum. hit both sides with penetrating oil. even a shop towel cut to fit and soaked in penetrant helps to keep it on there when you need to be somewhere else. the allen size in the top of them could stand to be a bit larger too...
good luck, you're about done with the hard part. putting it back together with all new stuff and loosened stuff is the fun part. sounds like it has been sitting awhile. as you use it and maintain it, the next time(s) are much easier. turns into a 2 hour job verses a 2 week one.
-Ralph


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## Warteetee (May 24, 2007)

I put the unit on a level surface and then put towels on both sides of the bolts to keep the oil in. I have gone through 3 cans of penatraing oil and 3 cans of coke. I would go out every 3-4 hours to make sure the resevoir I made was full. These are the same wedge location that the other stuck bolt was in and that took being burned off - I bet this wedge was sitting up while the unit sat for a while. All of the other bolts came out real nice. I have burned just about every other bolt off the rest of the unit and replaced with new so I could make shoot, hitch, etc adjustments at any time.

This is going on a 1 month project. I can't wait to start chipping - the wife just yelled - I NEED weed control (the original purposem of buying the chipper to get the chips and get rid of the wood).

Getting there.


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## gdn (May 27, 2007)

*chipper experience*

just thought i'd give a little advice on chippers, have been running 2 drum chippers and one disc daily for last 9 months, all self feeding models so i am not too familiar with your chipper but here's some points (learned from machines breaking etc)

always work with 2, both people should be at least within 5m of each other at all times the machine is running (over here the minimum legal distance is 3.5m), i have seen one person slip and get half pulled towards machine, he is 16yo and luckily pulled free from the branches with help from another worker, there were also 2 people who hit the stop button pretty much the same time, if he was there by himself he would probably not be here now,

grease bearings daily, worn bearings sound like crap and bounce the drum around quite a bit, grease is cheaper than steel,

don't over grease clutch bearing, we did that, burnt it real good and had to get clutch rebuilt,

we have a fresh blade on weekly, but ideally we should be changing blades every day, after one day's use the blades have that butter knife feel and don't cut as quick, blade changes usually take around 30-45 mins though so we do it when we have to,

Unless your bolts are in excellent condition i would replace all of them and buy a couple spare, never had threads strip or anything like this but can imagine the headache if it happened. We had one bolt on the morbark which we needed a screwdriver and hammer to get out - that was close enough,

!always keep an eye on water temp/oil pressure!. Invent a maintainence schedule and stick to it, checking fluids daily is an excellent idea. We had a couple of chippers overheat and blow fuse plugs. Expensive in time to get fixed.

If chipper slows down stop and find out why, on of the overheats was caused by palm cr-p building up around disc and acting as brake drum, the more we tried to get chipper to pull out of it the hotter it got until pssssh, all the oil from the flywheel drained out made me a very scared worker thought we killed the engine,

oh yeah don't use 12" blades, might work, might fly back out tell you it didn't,
once we chipped a 1 1/8th inch bolt, it ended up in 2 pieces from 1 clean cut, both pieces shot forward out the chute and hit the back of the truck at about a million miles an hour, sounded like a gun when off and just lucky they went forward not back.

i think morbark recommend 1.4mm clearance between blade and anvil at closest point, we generally work with a 3mm clearance but have chipped for a few days with 10-14mm and it worked.

torque bolts real good. Like i said the bolts are 1 1/8th in the drums and snapping them isn't an option, i think it is possible to over torque though but much safer than leaving them loose.

Clean all mating surfaces with a flathead screwdriver and wire brush, all that compressed crud acts as spacer pushing blades out of alignment, crud can vibrate loose leaving blades floppy (not good at all), a wee bit of petrol helps cleaning.

sharpened blades are good as new ones, can only sharpen the so many times before they are useless (get blunt real easy). I was told the blades we were using were sharpened about fifty times more than they were meant to be, apparently the metal gets softer closer to the centre, or nearer to the bolt holes. In your situation maybe its possible to sharpen yourself, on machine. Would cut down maintenance time considerably if possible. I would probably at least attempt to make them sharp my self for awhile and get the blades sent to shop occasionally.
wear gloves when installing new blades. they cut real good.
eh, this post getting too long, hope some of my experience helps,
have fun chippin, and be safe (2 people!)


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