# How long do you dry your firewood before burning?



## svk (Apr 19, 2015)

Just curious how long you dry (or "season") your firewood before burning? I'm looking for what you do, not how long you think wood should dry for. 

I normally give it at least one summer to dry. 

And go!


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## stihly dan (Apr 19, 2015)

I am at 4 years, but as each year goes by the number goes up. Can you be to dry? Some around here say yes.


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## johnny5ny (Apr 19, 2015)

My answer wasn't a choice on the poll 
It is, "as long as possible." Which is never more than 1 season it seems. I have a couple cords or red oak I cut last year and didn't even try to burn this winter tho. I doubt I'll even be ready this fall. 
Guess I need to cut more


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## Greenthorn (Apr 19, 2015)

svk said:


> Just curious how long you dry (or "season") your firewood before burning? I'm looking for what you do, not how long you think wood should dry for.
> 
> I normally give it at least one summer to dry.
> 
> And go!



Guess you wanna start a fight with hearth forum ehhh? There are so many variables whose to say?
We got to categorize this for each individual wood and what state it is in. WTF is a moisture meter anyway?

We been doing this for forty plus years now..............

Ash, walnut, soft maples, poplars, cherries can be 3-6 months after CSS.
Oaks, hard Maples, hickories need at least 6 months after CSS.
Locust, Mulberry, Hedge Osage need at least 18 - 24 months after CSS.

I give this list of wood cause this is what I burn the majority off.

This is my opinion, I state that so you hard core MF's who know everything about heat and hearth can laugh at me, and that is fine.......it is NOT fact.......just my opinion.

Both of my chimneys are 18 x 32 inches stainless steel lined and I have only cleaned them about every 5- 8 years, never no crude and no fires as of yet. My garage has an 8" chimney stainless steel and it has never been cleaned, doesn't need it, yep never!
Now sure as shiiittt as I say this I'll prolly have a fire.....THANKS


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## Marshy (Apr 20, 2015)

Most of my wood is purchased in log length. The shortest amount of time I'll go is logs cut down mid/end of winter, blocked an split by May and burnt that fall. However, I have about 2/3 of next years wood in log length from last Feb 2014 purchase. That should be nice an dry. Will have that cut and split by June. Going to cut and split the fresh logs I just got first to give them the best chance to dry out. I plan on buying a blaze king next weekend and I hope my firewood is dry enough this winter.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Apr 20, 2015)

If it dries for a week that's about the max. Usually just cut a bunch, dump by the shop and burn. Stove is 5/8" thick and chimney pipe is 8" well casing, around 3/8" thick.


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## tla100 (Apr 20, 2015)

CSS in spring and burned winter. Some ready, some wasn't. Getting ahead so it will be CSS over a year from now on, I hope.

Did burn a blow down right after CS that was dead and DRY this winter tho.


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## Oldman47 (Apr 20, 2015)

I am presently cutting up an apple for fire wood. The branches I am working on have been standing dead long enough to lose all of their bark but near the place they join the main trunk they are still green. Needless to say the green parts will likely take 2 years to be ready to burn but the stuff without any bark may be ready this fall. Every round that I split has its own need for seasoning/drying. There is no generic rule that actually works.


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## blades (Apr 20, 2015)

As I am several seasons ahead I can allow everthing to sit css for a minimum of 2 years. Even at that point there will be some species that may not be acceptable for use in my equipment. So many variables that there is no one answer. In general my rule of thumb is : soft hardwoods at least 1 year split small say about a 2x4 size,Dense hardwoods 2 years min in a 2x4. double the size of the splits = double the drying time for me. Last summer was kinda cool vs a few previous years and very humid - I have a small stack of linden which the large splits (8x8) are still wet behind the ears even though it has been sitting for 2 years .
With my stove and cheap mm - if I can get my fuel to apx 15% thats golden- 20% well it get me bye but I will be using twice as much for 1/3 the heat. That means I have to work a lot harder and frankly these old bones have hitches in the get along that protest mightily and my Buffrin bill gets out of hand.


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## brenndatomu (Apr 20, 2015)

Oldman47 said:


> . There is no generic rule that actually works.


I agree, it depends on wood species, what time of year it was cut, what condition the tree was in....I try to give it as long as possible. I have enough CSS to have everything drying 3 years now. Still get a sizzler once in a while...


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## AIM (Apr 20, 2015)

Usually about 10 minutes. That's about how long it takes to get home from the woods. 

Of course dead ash is 95% of what I'm burning.


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## Jere39 (Apr 20, 2015)

I cut standing dead Red Oak. And, the trunk wood typically splits out at 36-39% on the MM. Split and stacked this oak will lose 3% per month on an open air pile. Puts it close to 20% in six months, and I consider that ready. I cut most of the winter season here, and like to let it season till the next winter, more or less 9 months or more. So, most of my piles are in the range of 18-20% when set afire. In a really cold winter, I have found myself with wood cut in October or November needed by February or March. That's not the plan, but it has happened.


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## ponyexpress976 (Apr 20, 2015)

I'm 2 years ahead...could probably get to 3 with a little effort but 2 kids makes that kinda hard. Maybe when my son gets a little older, we can get that far ahead. Burned some oak CSS 2 years ago and it was fantastic stuff. Black walnut from the same week/jobsite sizzled and popped and hissed. Moral of the story: sometimes it doesn't matter what you do.


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## Whitespider (Apr 20, 2015)

AIM said:


> _*Usually about 10 minutes.
> Of course dead ash is 95% of what I'm burning.*_


Standin'-dead elm here... and the "woods" is my back yard so I let it season for a shorter time than you 

Disclaimer; full summer = April to November in my use of it below.

On the other hand... I've got some stuff in the stacks that'll have been there 4 or 5 full summers this fall... some was just stacked yesterday... and I'm plannin' to burn it all next heatin' season. I've burned lots of (Bur) oak after just one full summer of seasonin'... it burns fine, but burns a little better if ya' give it two years... Red Oak is a bit different, it flat needs two full summers unless ya' split it pretty small . I've burned the likes of Silver Maple, Jack Pine, and such after just a few weeks. Elm, cut green, needs at least a full summer (although I try to avoid cuttin' it green). Cherry, Hackberry, Ash and others of that sort are normally good-to-go in 3-4 months of sunny weather.

So... I guess what I'm sayin' is... before I can vote you need a "it depends" choice.
*


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## c5rulz (Apr 20, 2015)

IMHO, how fast wood dries is contingent on where it is sitting. Mine sits in full expose to the sun all day and gets a lot of wind on it. Normally it's split by February for sale by fall. This year I have about 1/4 yet to be split but will be done shortly for fall.


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## Clyde S. Dale (Apr 20, 2015)

2 years on average for everything except pine, poplar and soft maple. I am 2-3 years ahead so it just works out that way. I am fortunate to have the space to store it and the resources to stay 2-3 years ahead.


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## Whitespider (Apr 20, 2015)

c5rulz said:


> _*IMHO, how fast wood dries is contingent on where it is sitting. Mine sits in full expose to the sun all day and gets a lot of wind on it.*_


Yep... yep... and yep.
That describes my storage plan... ain't nothin' like solar energy to push the moisture out, and movin' air to carry it away.
*


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## Ironworker (Apr 20, 2015)

Use to be one year, now I am letting it sit for just under two years or actually two summers anyway.


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## olyman (Apr 20, 2015)

c5rulz said:


> IMHO, how fast wood dries is contingent on where it is sitting. Mine sits in full expose to the sun all day and gets a lot of wind on it. Normally it's split by February for sale by fall. This year I have about 1/4 yet to be split but will be done shortly for fall.


 dang right!!!!


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## wood4heat (Apr 20, 2015)

For me it depends on what I find and when I find it. Everything I burned this year was cut in the spring. I got into a huge stash last fall and cut enough for next year so that will be 1 year wood. I haven't seen the back of my wood shed in probably 5 years or so.

Most of the wood I cut is dead on the ground and ready to burn as is. Occasionally I will get some blow down that is still green. That stuff I will let sit at least a year.


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## jrider (Apr 20, 2015)

For my personal use in the fireplace, generally 6-12 months. For mom's woodstove, 12 month wood was doing just fine but one year she didn't burn that much so she started the following year with 2 yo oak and loved it so now that's what she gets.
As stated earlier though, where wood is stored makes a huge difference. Split wood in a field will dry a helluva lot faster than wood sitting under trees or up against a building in the yard.


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## Cerran (Apr 20, 2015)

svk said:


> Just curious how long you dry (or "season") your firewood before burning? I'm looking for what you do, not how long you think wood should dry for.
> 
> I normally give it at least one summer to dry.
> 
> And go!



Depends on the firewood and the conditions when I cut it. Last year I cut bone dry standing dead lodgepole that was less than 20% moisture that I burned last fall no problem. Some of the wood in my stacks is ~ 3 years old. Generally 1.5-2 years depending on how much wood I have.


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## slowp (Apr 21, 2015)

Wood is going to season much faster in AZ than it is here in Warshington. Climate is variable. You might not even need a woodshed in some places but you do here. Mine goes a year in a COVERED stack and then the next season into the woodshed. Don't move here.


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## laynes69 (Apr 21, 2015)

In our old furnace, I would go around 6 months. I rarely had wood left over from winter, then come spring I was busy with the garden and stuff so usually 6 months if I was lucky. Usually it was less, and I would cut standing dead and try to not take from the stack. Now, I always have wood left over so it's easy to get a couple years ahead. I shoot for at least 16 months but I'm happy at 2 years. It also depends on the species, cotton wood and box elder seasons fast along with silver maple. Oak and hickory I try to give a couple years.


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## gary courtney (Apr 21, 2015)

2 years


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## MountainHigh (Apr 21, 2015)

when I cut and split green hardwood in spring and needed it a hurry, I have burned it in the Fall *after baking in the summer sun*.

Now that I have a good wood shed, I have some wood in there that's been sitting for 3 years.

On average I season it for about a year undercover.


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## Knobby57 (Apr 21, 2015)

I guess it also depends on your stove . My dad has a old smoke dragon that just ears wood . I have a EPA stove with secondary air . His will burn wood that is not quite seasoned mine just won't burn it . Standing dead red or white oak will need to sit at least 6-8 months split to burn well in my stove . They seem to wick the water out of the ground even when dead . The tops can usually be burned rite away . But usually oak needs at least 2 years before it's good hear and maple also needs at least 2 summers . Beech I can get away with 1 year . I found there is a huge difference between seasoned wood and ahh it's good enough wood 


Sent from my phone when I should be working


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## tla100 (Apr 22, 2015)

slowp said:


> Wood is going to season much faster in AZ than it is here in Warshington. Climate is variable. You might not even need a woodshed in some places but you do here. Mine goes a year in a COVERED stack and then the next season into the woodshed. Don't move here.



"DISLIKE"


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## Oldman47 (Apr 22, 2015)

slowp said:


> Wood is going to season much faster in AZ than it is here in Warshington. Climate is variable. You might not even need a woodshed in some places but you do here. Mine goes a year in a COVERED stack and then the next season into the woodshed. Don't move here.


Why would anyone want to move to the great north wet?


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## Big_Al (Apr 23, 2015)

slowp said:


> Wood is going to season much faster in AZ than it is here in Warshington. Climate is variable. You might not even need a woodshed in some places but you do here. Mine goes a year in a COVERED stack and then the next season into the woodshed. Don't move here.



There are dry and hot parts of the state though. Summers are usually 80-90 deg and 15-20% humidity. Wood dries pretty fast around here.


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## 1967 Tempest (Apr 29, 2015)

I don't have the space to stack for more than 1 years of burning. I did increase my stacking "area" this year and hope to get just under 10 cord CSS. I'd be happy with 8. Most of the stuff I scrounge is Hurricane Sandy stuff, so it at least has SOME dead time. But some of the fresher stuff is CSS March/April burn in winter. I have full sun and a lot of wind. NJ must be the ASH tree state. 90% of what I get is Ash. Which as stated above dries out quicker. I have pieces that I bought last year after running out that was "SEASONED" but when I split them was still wet. I split a few last weekend of Red Oak from that pile and it is still wet.

I've said it before but when I get out of the state I am getting OWB and CSS like 50 cord. I should be ahead like 3 years!


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## bert the turtle (Apr 29, 2015)

This year will be mostly 2 year old, but I think I'll end up dipping into some of the stuff I put up this year because I didn't put up enough last year. Now I have a better idea how much to stash (as much as possible is the answer) Next year should be all 2 years old and I hope to be at 3 years after that. That is clearly excessive for the lighter wood I burn, but I like to have a reserve. Not sure if 3 years will be enough for the oak I have in this humid climate. One year certainly wasn't!


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## Marine5068 (Apr 29, 2015)

I always go by species and I stack CSS in open air, full sun.
One full year for Maple, Ash, Hickory, Cherry and Yellow Birch
Two full years for Oaks ( I mostly burn Red Oak vs White here )
Now don't get excited Spidey, but I will use my moisture meter to check the stacks periodically.
Maple is what I predominantly burn so I am always two years ahead with my cutting.


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## TIDE-HSV (Mar 24, 2018)

It's interesting how often this question comes up. In one old thread along these lines, there is a long USDA article on this which concludes, under good conditions, none months is enough. Basically, it said, that if wood can be cut in winter or early spring, before the sap rises and assuming it doesn't rain all summer, nine months is enough. I have several cords we've just cut and are splitting. It's relatively dry, around 25% because of when it was cut. My wood is kept under a woodshed and I've appended a file. I live on a mountaintop in extreme north Alabama next to the TN line. We have about 70 days a year of fog, fortunately not in the summer. A typical summer high here is high 80s in the gut of the summer. We burn mostly oak and hickory. I have burned wood 2-4 years old, <10%, and it's a problem in our Kent wood stove with a small firebox. It gets too hot too quickly and will not last the night. It might have been OK in a larger stove.


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## Deleted member 149229 (Mar 24, 2018)

I usually get dead wood and I stay ahead of the game so most of my stuff is seasoned 1-2 years.


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## blades (Mar 24, 2018)

Drying time varies with species and size of splits - there is no one definitive answer, unless of course you are kiln drying and even then the time length varies just a lot shorter. I shoot for 3 or more years, open air, sometimes that is not enough, with weather patterns.


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## TIDE-HSV (Mar 24, 2018)

You are correct about the varying times. I don't go along with the super long drying times. As I said, my 4-yr old wood was under 10% and was like burning rolled-up newspaper in a small firebox...


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## MontanaResident (Mar 24, 2018)

I was going two because I was stacking rounds. Since I picked up a 25ton splitter, I'm planning on just one year, split in the spring and leave out in the sun for burning in the fall/winter.


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## TIDE-HSV (Mar 24, 2018)

MontanaResident said:


> I was going two because I was stacking rounds. Since I picked up a 25ton splitter, I'm planning on just one year, split in the spring and leave out in the sun for burning in the fall/winter.




That's my usual plan. Mine are split and are around 18" and I have a warmer summer to help...


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## sb47 (Mar 24, 2018)

About 6 months if it's split and stacked properly in full sun and allowed to get plenty of air.


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## TIDE-HSV (Mar 24, 2018)

sb47 said:


> About 6 months if it's split and stacked properly in full sun and allowed to get plenty of air.




I agree. However, you, like I, are in a warmer spot than people posting from WI...


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## fulladirt (Mar 24, 2018)

I cut/split/stack in the winter then cover it up with a tin roof and start burning it in the fall. Mostly standing dead oak and whatever else that comes my way usually Beech, Hickory, Cherry. I do get some sizzlers sometimes, usually they'll be lowest pieces off the stack, even pecker poles too. I just save my heaviest pieces to cram the stove full as I can for all-nighters.
Now having a hyrdo splitter I'll be keeping 2yrs worth of firewood. So in 2 yrs my answer will change to....2yrs!


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## Cody (Mar 25, 2018)

tprepd1 said:


> I cut/split/stack in the winter then cover it up with a tin roof and start burning it in the fall. Mostly standing dead oak and whatever else that comes my way usually Beech, Hickory, Cherry. I do get some sizzlers sometimes, usually they'll be lowest pieces off the stack, even pecker poles too. I just save my heaviest pieces to cram the stove full as I can for all-nighters.
> Now having a hyrdo splitter I'll be keeping 2yrs worth of firewood. So in 2 yrs my answer will change to....2yrs!



I stack all the oak/elm and what little else I burn in the house in an 18 by 21 carport with sides all the way down. The wood is stacked directly on the ground, gravel on top of crushed concrete. I notice about the same this winter, the pieces down on the ground, and in the middle of the carport weren't nearly as dry as the others, no sizzle but they burned dirty. I thought having small gaps between the rows would be enough, this would was split 3 years ago, but I finally made the decision to put pallets down on the ground. Four standard pallets fit 5 wide in there, with a few inches between the pallets. Guess I'll find out in a few years, but I'd imagine that'll provide a ton more airflow, so even the ground pieces in the middle dry out nearly as much as the stuff up top. I didn't want to lose the nearly 6" of height, adds up to a lot of volume but I figured I'd just stack damn near all the way to the top of the carport, wood doesn't need a ton of airflow right?


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## Little Al (Mar 25, 2018)

svk said:


> Just curious how long you dry (or "season") your firewood before burning? I'm looking for what you do, not how long you think wood should dry for.
> 
> I normally give it at least one summer to dry.
> 
> And go!


Although I try to store 2years or more Time is not the deciding factor I check it with a moisture meter one of the 4 prong ones to check the content I try to get it as near to 16% as possible but will use any with a south of 20 % reading several factors come into plat Weather, how dry was the wood when cut wood type with my stacks only the tops are covered & the wood is raised off the ground & not to tightly stacked to allow air circulation


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## rarefish383 (Mar 25, 2018)

All of the wood I had CSS when this thread started was burned a couple years ago, Joe.


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## rarefish383 (Mar 25, 2018)

Even though MD is quite a humid state, I use the nine month rule. Some of the Red Oak will sizzle a little, Joe.


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## fulladirt (Mar 25, 2018)

Cody said:


> I stack all the oak/elm and what little else I burn in the house in an 18 by 21 carport with sides all the way down. The wood is stacked directly on the ground, gravel on top of crushed concrete. I notice about the same this winter, the pieces down on the ground, and in the middle of the carport weren't nearly as dry as the others, no sizzle but they burned dirty. I thought having small gaps between the rows would be enough, this would was split 3 years ago, but I finally made the decision to put pallets down on the ground. Four standard pallets fit 5 wide in there, with a few inches between the pallets. Guess I'll find out in a few years, but I'd imagine that'll provide a ton more airflow, so even the ground pieces in the middle dry out nearly as much as the stuff up top. I didn't want to lose the nearly 6" of height, adds up to a lot of volume but I figured I'd just stack damn near all the way to the top of the carport, wood doesn't need a ton of airflow right?



I use pallets too, but my pallets were getting old and crammed all fulla dirt and hunks of bark. I tore em up this year raked out all the junk and started fresh with new pallets. Should be decent airflow for the lower pieces now. But I know some groundhog or other pest gonna try and set up shop under there, I'll be watching for him though


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## captjack (Mar 25, 2018)

Firewood season begins right after deer and bird go out here in MD ! In the past I would be two seasons ahead. Usually about 20cords or more under cover in sheds. IM moving this year and will have an outdoor boiler at the farm so I'm not sure how much wood I will burn. Im planning on splitting up another 20 and see what happens after first winter.


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## trukn2004 (Mar 26, 2018)

I just got into Red Oak and Maple that was split, stacked and top covered for just over two years. It sizzles and is a bastard to light, but once the stove is warm, minimal problems. I ideally want to go 3 years on green cut to minimize this, but right now i am behind. This summer will be spent trying to catch back up. I burned through all the dead standing and down stuff that was a treat stacked and dried for two years.


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## Marley5 (Mar 26, 2018)

I simply cut a split this year and burn it next year.....don't care what it is.
I always get a crackle and pop, never a sizzle. 
I will say i live at high altitude, air is dryer.


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## Ted Jenkins (Mar 26, 2018)

Every one has a different answer. Here is different than some. It takes 6 weeks for green Oak and 3 weeks for green Pine. Drying time is usually during June through October. I cut about 6 cord of green Oak in September by January was pretty much all gone. In the late 90's when we had an El Nino year wood molded because we only had 5 months of semi dry weather. Then some years we only have two months of damp weather. Thanks


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## c5rulz (Mar 27, 2018)

Something that hasn't been addressed that effects drying times is the shape the wood is split in. I feel that wood split to resemble 1.5-2" boards will dry faster than a similar split weighing the same amount that is split in wedges or pie shaped because it has more surface area. I NEVER toss small 4-6" limbs in the stack unsplit. Those don't dry at all except 1" from the end per year.

Here is an example of what I call "board split".


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## Cody (Mar 27, 2018)

c5rulz said:


> Something that hasn't been addressed that effects drying times is the shape the wood is split in. I feel that wood split to resemble 1.5-2" boards will dry faster than a similar split weighing the same amount that is split in wedges or pie shaped because it has more surface area. I NEVER toss small 4-6" limbs in the stack unsplit. Those don't dry at all except 1" from the end per year.
> 
> Here is an example of what I call "board split".




I would agree as far as drying time goes on those, we call them making planks. I just follow a routine, if it's shorter than the wedge it just gets split in half, over the wedge up to 1' diameter usually gets quartered, beyond that it's just split them however. I'm not too worried about it drying as fast as possible though, an anything smaller than 4" doesn't get split, it gets cut 2' long and goes into the garage stove.


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## Cowboy254 (Mar 31, 2018)

I organised my set up based on two years drying. In our conditions, 1 year is normally enough but two is a bit better. However, I'm now 3 years ahead and it shouldn't be too hard to keep it that way. Should have built a bigger woodshed! So I have 1 year's worth stacked on a tarp (as a barrier from the dirt - I would use pallets but I don't have any) and in a row on the retaining wall uncovered. I also have a couple of cord in my man-shed. Two year's worth in the main woodshed where it keeps nice and warm. Stuff on the tarp and retaining wall will go into the shed during the winter. I work my way along the side of a bay and burn the stuff at the back then start to burn my way forward. Then I can start stacking the stuff on the tarp from the back as winter goes along.


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## Cody (Mar 31, 2018)

Cowboy254 said:


> I organised my set up based on two years drying. In our conditions, 1 year is normally enough but two is a bit better. However, I'm now 3 years ahead and it shouldn't be too hard to keep it that way. Should have built a bigger woodshed! So I have 1 year's worth stacked on a tarp (as a barrier from the dirt - I would use pallets but I don't have any) and in a row on the retaining wall uncovered. I also have a couple of cord in my man-shed. Two year's worth in the main woodshed where it keeps nice and warm. Stuff on the tarp and retaining wall will go into the shed during the winter. I work my way along the side of a bay and burn the stuff at the back then start to burn my way forward. Then I can start stacking the stuff on the tarp from the back as winter goes along.
> 
> View attachment 643404



I want to get far enough ahead, that I have 1 year worth of firewood cut into rounds, stacked in rows outside to "pre season." Actually, I want to cut enough in the fall to build me a snow fence 4' high on the east side where it's open to the wind.


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## Marine5068 (Apr 3, 2018)

c5rulz said:


> Something that hasn't been addressed that effects drying times is the shape the wood is split in. I feel that wood split to resemble 1.5-2" boards will dry faster than a similar split weighing the same amount that is split in wedges or pie shaped because it has more surface area. I NEVER toss small 4-6" limbs in the stack unsplit. Those don't dry at all except 1" from the end per year.
> 
> Here is an example of what I call "board split".


I agree


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## muddstopper (Apr 3, 2018)

Every time this thread get revived, I want to answer, it depends. It depends on how much I have left over from last year, how cold it is outside, and if I need wood now and I am out. I usually have wood left over each year. I stack it inside a metal carport. I fill it each year and will burn out of one end this year and the other end the next. some of the wood in the middle of the shed has been their more than two or three years. I will be buring that wood this next winter as I have my house for sale and am not stockpileing a whole lot of wood. I have rounds that have been laying in a pile for over a year, I will be splitting to help make it thru next winter, and I got a load of logs a month ago that will have to be processed. Between what in the shed and what has to be processed, I should make it thru next winter. My wood will be a mix of well seasoned, almost seasoned and a little dryer than fresh cut. If the house sales, well I wont need any wood as I build a new house. New house plans call for a smaller, more energy efficient, foot print as I try to cut way down on the amount of wood, as well as electricity, I use each year.


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## Marley5 (Apr 3, 2018)

muddstopper said:


> Every time this thread get revived, I want to answer, it depends. It depends on how much I have left over from last year, how cold it is outside, and if I need wood now and I am out. I usually have wood left over each year. I stack it inside a metal carport. I fill it each year and will burn out of one end this year and the other end the next. some of the wood in the middle of the shed has been their more than two or three years. I will be buring that wood this next winter as I have my house for sale and am not stockpileing a whole lot of wood. I have rounds that have been laying in a pile for over a year, I will be splitting to help make it thru next winter, and I got a load of logs a month ago that will have to be processed. Between what in the shed and what has to be processed, I should make it thru next winter. My wood will be a mix of well seasoned, almost seasoned and a little dryer than fresh cut. If the house sales, well I wont need any wood as I build a new house. New house plans call for a smaller, more energy efficient, foot print as I try to cut way down on the amount of wood, as well as electricity, I use each year.



You may want to consider radiant / hydronic heating in your new house.
We cut our wood consumption in half.....that is if your still planning on using wood.


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## Bob95065 (Apr 3, 2018)

I built a woodshed that holds 9 cords which is two years worth of wood for us. We burned the left side this year, right next year. The wood dries two years before we burn it that way.


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## muddstopper (Apr 4, 2018)

Marley5 said:


> You may want to consider radiant / hydronic heating in your new house.
> We cut our wood consumption in half.....that is if your still planning on using wood.


I dont know what radiant/hydronic heating is, never heard of it. How does that work?

I have plans for a solar heating system as a hybrid wood heated/solar heated radiant system. I also plan to air condition the house using creek water that will be pumped thru the radiant system in the summer time. I will also be using hydro generated electricty to supplement my grid tied electrical system. I will not be using net metering, power company puts too many restrictions on how I have to generate my power and how I am re-embursed for any power I put into the grid. I have a pretty good creek with 75ft of fall for the hydrosystem.


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## Marine5068 (Apr 4, 2018)

Cowboy254 said:


> I organised my set up based on two years drying. In our conditions, 1 year is normally enough but two is a bit better. However, I'm now 3 years ahead and it shouldn't be too hard to keep it that way. Should have built a bigger woodshed! So I have 1 year's worth stacked on a tarp (as a barrier from the dirt - I would use pallets but I don't have any) and in a row on the retaining wall uncovered. I also have a couple of cord in my man-shed. Two year's worth in the main woodshed where it keeps nice and warm. Stuff on the tarp and retaining wall will go into the shed during the winter. I work my way along the side of a bay and burn the stuff at the back then start to burn my way forward. Then I can start stacking the stuff on the tarp from the back as winter goes along.
> 
> View attachment 643404


I've seen your set up in earlier posts.
I think you have a great thing there. Love that big metal barn. Is it open at the back too?
Your Aussie wood looks very colorful with names I've never heard of (mostly).
Looks like Gum, Box and Ironbark are your densest wood fuels.
Keep the pics coming, love it.


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## Marine5068 (Apr 4, 2018)

Bob95065 said:


> I built a woodshed that holds 9 cords which is two years worth of wood for us. We burned the left side this year, right next year. The wood dries two years before we burn it that way.


Looks like a good sized lean-to.
So if you use half that in one year, then you'd be burning the next half the next year?
Isn't that one year seasoning per side?
I'm just trying to figure how you said it.


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## Multifaceted (Apr 8, 2018)

Generally my rule of thumb is one year in full sun and wind, but some species seem to dry faster than other, e.g. black walnut, cherry. Ash is ready in a few months but best if left to dry a year and then it is exceptional. Oak seems to take longer, but I'll check it after a year and if it's still not ready I'll leave it, unless I'm in a pinch. I use the knocking method in conjunction with a moisture meter to check for dryness. Works well enough, I'm not a stickler, but some wood like oak doesn't burn well if not fully dry and creates a buildup creasote in my chimney. All in all, it's a real time laboratory and I'm learning every year.


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## Bob95065 (Apr 8, 2018)

Marine5068 said:


> Looks like a good sized lean-to.
> So if you use half that in one year, then you'd be burning the next half the next year?
> Isn't that one year seasoning per side?
> I'm just trying to figure how you said it.



That's exactly what I do. Burn the left side one year. The following summer refill it. The next year burn the right side.


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## c5rulz (Apr 17, 2018)

Here is wood that has been aging 9-11 months. I think it looks OK.


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## TIDE-HSV (Apr 17, 2018)

Bob95065 said:


> That's exactly what I do. Burn the left side one year. The following summer refill it. The next year burn the right side.


My system also. I burn from the front of the shed to the back. Each spring, the old wood moves to the front and the newer wood comes in the back. I'm overloaded at the moment and have a bunch in the open...


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## TIDE-HSV (Apr 17, 2018)

TIDE-HSV said:


> My system also. I burn from the front of the shed to the back. Each spring, the old wood moves to the front and the newer wood comes in the back. I'm overloaded at the moment and have a bunch in the open...View attachment 647124
> View attachment 647124


Here's the surplus...


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## olyman (Apr 25, 2018)

muddstopper said:


> Every time this thread get revived, I want to answer, it depends. It depends on how much I have left over from last year, how cold it is outside, and if I need wood now and I am out. I usually have wood left over each year. I stack it inside a metal carport. I fill it each year and will burn out of one end this year and the other end the next. some of the wood in the middle of the shed has been their more than two or three years. I will be buring that wood this next winter as I have my house for sale and am not stockpileing a whole lot of wood. I have rounds that have been laying in a pile for over a year, I will be splitting to help make it thru next winter, and I got a load of logs a month ago that will have to be processed. Between what in the shed and what has to be processed, I should make it thru next winter. My wood will be a mix of well seasoned, almost seasoned and a little dryer than fresh cut. If the house sales, well I wont need any wood as I build a new house. New house plans call for a smaller, more energy efficient, foot print as I try to cut way down on the amount of wood, as well as electricity, I use each year.


and as you already are ware of,,,,,,,power co;s are jackasses....less you let THEM build wind turbines on your property...what a racket,,,,,


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## farmer steve (Apr 25, 2018)

TIDE-HSV said:


> My system also. I burn from the front of the shed to the back. Each spring, the old wood moves to the front and the newer wood comes in the back. I'm overloaded at the moment and have a bunch in the open...View attachment 647124
> View attachment 647124


snow in Alibami?


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## chucker (Apr 25, 2018)

all summer long! right after mother nature has had her way with it's life cycle and ready for the next... up in smoke!


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## etc (Mar 27, 2020)

I would love the luxury of 2-3 years but rarely get it and at best, have to make do with just 1 year. 1.5 years is a luxury that I sometimes get.


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## husky455rancher (Mar 28, 2020)

I split small so it dries fast. Typically especially the last few years I split in spring and burn it the same year. I bring it all inside at the beginning of winter and it continues to dry in the house with the stove keeping it warm.


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## Be Stihl (Mar 29, 2020)

husky455rancher said:


> I split small so it dries fast. Typically especially the last few years I split in spring and burn it the same year. I bring it all inside at the beginning of winter and it continues to dry in the house with the stove keeping it warm.



That’s how I burned this past winter. I also cut enough extra that is still stacked and drying, that will get burned this next winter. Right now I am splitting wood for 2 years down the road but it takes up a lot of space, you have to get creative. 






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mustang71 (Mar 29, 2020)

I try to cut in the winter and let it sit 2 summers. I'd call that 2 years. Now I'm cutting so much that I'm 3 years or more out. I have noticed the rows further back in the wood shed are dryer and the last row is like 5 years old. That's that reserve row I hope I never get to.


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## etc (Mar 29, 2020)

husky455rancher said:


> I split small so it dries fast. Typically especially the last few years I split in spring and burn it the same year. I bring it all inside at the beginning of winter and it continues to dry in the house with the stove keeping it warm.



I too try to split as small as possible.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 1, 2020)

I cut this past winter late December January Febuary and March. I am burning some March cut stuff right now standing dead with bark falling off.
Normally however I will burn what was cut this winter come fall.
I have been cutting dead standing Ash for years now but am finally getting it all down.











 Al


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## woodchuckcanuck (Apr 4, 2020)

Generally a full year but when necessary, I run it through the kiln 2 cord at a time.


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## Woody912 (Apr 4, 2020)

8 years but the really good stuff 12. Have had some as long as 20


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## FlyingDutchman (Apr 8, 2020)

From previous threads advise mostly from c5rulz I've been splitting smaller and pulling bark where possible. I'm completely out again praying whatever I do gets it dry for next season. Going to focus on fast drying species, cherry, locust, boxelder, pine and maple getting those on the burn racks and getting the slow drying species like oak and walnut split and at least on pallets.


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## North by Northwest (Apr 8, 2020)

The Hard woods typically 1-2 yrs. 3-4 yr seasoning is optimal but impractical up North here . Any wood after 5 yrs loses it btu,s too dry actually . Softwood I cut and split in spring and burn in the fall usually . I always have a cord or two as back up in the wood shed lol.


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## Cody (Apr 8, 2020)

Broken said:


> The Hard woods typically 1-2 yrs. 3-4 yr seasoning is optimal but impractical up North here . Any wood after 5 yrs loses it btu,s too dry actually . Softwood I cut and split in spring and burn in the fall usually . I always have a cord or two as back up in the wood shed lol.



I think oak stands away from that 5 year rule, the longer that stuff seasons the better.


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## North by Northwest (Apr 8, 2020)

Cody said:


> I think oak stands away from that 5 year rule, the longer that stuff seasons the better.


Well it depends on your climate and storage criteria Cody . I like my moisture content around 20- 25 % . I can meet that easily with Ironwood and Hard Rock Maple which have the same density & btu values of common oak up North here in 4-5 yrs of proper storage . Common oak normally up North here , will have less than 10% moisture content after 5 yr seasoning . However I do not cut oak for firewood I believe oak is much better left for furniture , flooring and cabinetry usage . lol. Having said that. , you could be very well correct in many regions that have high humidity yr round !


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## cumminstinkerer (Apr 8, 2020)

@Broken I agree with saving oak and walnut for the finer things, but with my situation I get some of both from time to time, I try to sort out the good logs that can be milled and get them to a friend with a mill, I do every no and then end up eith some of either species that is just to crappy to mill, I've found that even here in Iowa that oak takes forever to dry out, I have some 18 month CSS that if resplit is still damp feeling on your face, have not tried a moiture meter on it but.....


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## North by Northwest (Apr 8, 2020)

cumminstinkerer said:


> @Broken I agree with saving oak and walnut for the finer things, but with my situation I get some of both from time to time, I try to sort out the good logs that can be milled and get them to a friend with a mill, I do every no and then end up eith some of either species that is just to crappy to mill, I've found that even here in Iowa that oak takes forever to dry out, I have some 18 month CSS that if resplit is still damp feeling on your face, have not tried a moiture meter on it but.....


Cummins , Walnut love the smell of fresh cut walnut . Yeah as Cody and you have mentioned some species of hardwood season at various rates dependant on storage protocols and ambient relative humidity . There is an abundance of Common or White oak in my area Red oak not as much . I really like Sugar Maple , Mountain Ash & Ironwood for my hardwood of choice . They all are abundant nearby and season within my 1-2 yr seasoning requirement .In a pinch I mix in Silver birch & Red Maple that seasons even quicker . I usually cut 5-10 cord annually for my various firewood needs on the homestead ...


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## cumminstinkerer (Apr 8, 2020)

@Broken I have a couple of local tree service guys that bring their logs, I take whatever they bring, lots of soft/silver maple, ash, hickory, mulberry, Siberian elm, some oak red and white, some walnut, some red cedar, and various stuff that I am not really sure what it is, I think decorative type trees but hey it all burns and makes heat. I am not picky nor is my frankenboiler, wood is wood, and they bring the logs right to my house, all I have to do is buck them and split them. it is a great deal, one saves the really good logs for his mill, but otherwise I get whatever they dont chip, they have to pay to dump the logs somewhere so by me taking them it works out good for them and I get free wood.


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## Deleted member 117362 (Apr 8, 2020)

Cutting for winter of 23-24. Wood crib is full for this year 20-21 burning.


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## Mustang71 (Apr 9, 2020)

The ash drys really fast. An hour after its cut it starts to crack in the middle of the logs. It definitely does not need 3 to 4 years. You could probably burn it after 6 warm months. It has to be off the ground though or it absorbs the moisture and never drys.


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## motorhead99999 (Apr 9, 2020)

It depends on how much I want my wife to burn lol. She likes to get the stove cooking with dry stuff so I mix it so she doesn’t burn as much


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## Ted Jenkins (Apr 11, 2020)

I just got done burning almost a cord of Manzanita that had been cut a week and it burned so well. It is easy to get fresh cut Manzanita to burn eight to ten hours. I have a neighbor that lives a few hundred feet away that was cited as having a fire hazard. So the county workers came by and cut about fifty bushes that ranged from six inches to fourteen inches. After they had a large pile I suggested that I would haul it away for free. At that time we had no snow on the ground, but thought it might save me a trip to my wood ranch. They piled it on my pickup at least four feet higher than the cab and left. Poor owner was billed six to eight grand for the work. Last week I finished burning the last of it. It is one wood that only needs one week to season out just perfect, however when green it takes a few minuted to get started. Thanks


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## woodchuckcanuck (Apr 11, 2020)

From green, 7 days. This is day 6. Should be done tomorrow.


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## SS396driver (Apr 11, 2020)

Really depends . If its spirts out water on the splitter like some of the oak I have 2 to 3 years. But if it looks like this its cut and burned the same day


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## SS396driver (Apr 11, 2020)

Or I make something like this . Made 8 similar units sold every one . Sold 4 to a local brewery $ 2400. Much better than selling firewood


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## Ted Jenkins (Apr 12, 2020)

I really like your application very impressed. We have a large amount of Manzanita around here where which might be a promicing application. Thanks


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## Chris Cringle (Apr 13, 2020)

After retiring four years ago I have slowly got ahead of my firewood needs and I’m now burning wood that has dried for three years. I am in Virginia, not in the great White North, so I only burn about 2 1/2 cords a year. Have been burning mostly ash, elm and maple, trees my farm neighbors gave me, with the occasional white oak, walnut, cherry, cedar, pine, sweet gum, tulip, and Black locust. But the last two winters have harvested almost exclusively oak, probably 80% Northern Red Oak and 20% white oak, blown down around here when the remnants of hurricane Michael came through in October 18. Even though I am four years ahead I am continuing to bring in the oak, most of it fairly green because it was live when blown over, not standing dead. So I am on track to be burning oak that has aged four, five, or six years. 

Because the open field parts of my property are not really the place we want to store our firewood, we store it in the edge of the woods along a powerline easement. It is stacked on rails of PT lumber, with roofing or scrap plywood nailed to the top. Not optimal, but since I can let it sit there for three years, it works. No punk, mushrooms or rot. By the time I am burning it is rare for me to split a piece and have the moisture be 20% or greater. 14 to 16% is the norm.


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## TheDarkLordChinChin (Apr 14, 2020)

I have ash, noble fir, western red ceder and eucalyptus as well as some other stuff mixed in that has been sitting on hard concrete at the bottom of a pile for 16 years. 
A load of trees were cut around the house back then and the wood was all stacked in a shed. The bottom of the pile has never been reached, it just keeps getting new wood added on top of it every year. About half the pile gets burned every year.


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