# Project Almighty Splitter, the turbocharged logsplitter!



## Old_School_Nut (Jun 11, 2007)

The story:

It all started out in roughly 1972 when my dad built a splitter but never finished it and it sat in the woods for over 30 years. it used a 9.6 hp Clinton engine and sad to say but the brand new engine was not much more than a solid block of rust when I got my hands on it a few years ago.. Eager to finish my dads project, I started project almighty splitter, but this time with a bigger engine!

The goal of this log splitter from the start was to build a splitter that was powerful, reliable, FUN, mechanically interesting, E85 compatible and easier on the back than a splitting maul.

And so I began with research. I wanted a old engine (40-50 years old), a durable one, one that is simple, with available parts (within reason). This led me to Wisconsin engines. After some thought I bought a couple of the locally made 2 cylinder engines used, then I bought another, and another from 3 different states (fun road trips)... after maybe 5+ engines I had enough to build one good engine, a Frankenstein of all the engines best parts. I then sent the cylinders out to get bored and have new bronze guides installed. After the valve job I then back cut the face of the valves and polished them, next is pocket porting!

The two cyl TJD Wisconsin engine I selected is over 54+ CI (bored out .010) this alone impressed my friends and eventually they thought with all this “overkill” (hey I split a lot of elm) I could as well add a turbo! Point taken! I then set out and bought a IHI RHF3 turbo from a 3 cyl diesel, it should be a perfect match for my little 2 cylinder, even with my low engine rpm's of 3,600 RPM (hydraulic pump limits RPM)

The oil feed from the turbo will come from a tank that is connected to the engine oil sump, this is so I can use my auxiliary pump (also locally made) (1 GPM 600 PSI max at 1,800 RPM) to also filter my engine oil (non military variants of the engine had no oil filter) the baby oil pump will be driven via extended mandrel on the flywheel end (where the hand crank start is) to allow for a belt. The belt will drive the oil pump via a shaft sitting on 2 pillow blocks mounted on the same frame as the engine, this shaft will then have a lov joy on the other end. This will allow me to drive the oil pump without putting a side load on the pumps shaft, and thus hopefully increasing pump life, pump RPM will be adjusted via pulley ratios.... I just have to find a relief valve now....

The engine is all forged internally minus the pistons... oil spray and splash lube, taper roller mains and automotive type rod and wrist pin bearings... lucky for me I can machine, I have access to a 4 axis mill as well as a 2 axis as well as lathes, which I have used a lot already on this project. I am old school and don’t trust batteries so I took the distributor off and am right now making an adapter for a Fairbanks Morse magneto to mount behind the generator (driven via generator armature and a coupling made out of a TH400 tranny yoke and output shaft) this is possible because the generator is gear driven much like aircraft engines... the engine also has a Rockford clutch so I can disengage the pump in the winter when I want to HAND START my engine! Yes it has an electric starter (6 volt ‘cuz I dig 6 volt), but hand start is nice to have when you split wood in the back 40... 

Other than that I have a huge 5 X 30" rebuildable hydraulic cylinder and a 28 GPM 2 stage barnes pump, I calculate a 10.07298493 sec cycle time on the fast side of the pump operating at peak efficiency and a max push of 29 tons (don’t listen to log splitter manufacturers claims most are way off). That makes for an average of almost 6 inches of travel per second. to Limit the speed (for safety and for ease of use I got a flow control valve to adjust cylinder speed from 0-6 IPM.


the hydraulic tank will be made like a race car oil system with an air/oil separator, but because of its large volume I have it planned to have an internal valve to divert the just used oil back to the tank outlet, this should keep the warmer oil circulating and thus faster cycle times....

To Do:
-I still need however a hydraulic relief valve for 55 PSI
-I need to locate a cheep intercooler 
-Finalize how to modify a bendix updraft carb and its associated mechanical fuel pump to work with a turbo (think tractor carburetor) (I have ideas but never done one....)
-fab oil tank with air oil separator and winter bypass.
-find a small mechanical water pump and radiator to cool my water cooled turbo
-get a cheep holley blue electric "race" fuel pump from some1 to modify into a mechanical pump

Engine Mods Done and in Progress:
-3 angle valve job,
-back cut and polished valves.
-Pocket ported
-Aluminum heads (they also used cast iron)
-Bored out .010
-Custom 6v generator with magneto drive (I dig 6 volt)
-6v starter & hand crank.
-RHF3 turbo
-Fab a drive for a 1 gpm haight pump for turbo lube
-Modified updraft carb with drilled out adjustable jets from smaller Wisconsin engines to allow use of E85 (hopefully float and air bleeds will not need to be changed)


to do:
-Finish engine assembly and Rockford wet clutch assembly
-Drill and tap oil fill hole in block
-Assemble everything
-Finish magneto adapter

Hydraulic specs:
-5x30 prince tie rod cyl
-28 GPM barnes 2 stage pump
-30 GPM spool
-25 gallon oil tank (to be fabricated still)
-Flow control valves for ram and boom (vertical splitter)


I am I would say about half way their... I have most parts but the ones listed and the frame is made. The bulk of the work left is in fabricating oil tanks and assembly..... Should be fun! 

Pictures will come soon.


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## Old_School_Nut (Jun 11, 2007)

*some pics..*

some pics of parts:

the turbo as I got it.






isnt it cute?


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## Old_School_Nut (Jun 11, 2007)

hummm them pics didnt work...


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## mga (Jun 11, 2007)

gees....i have an old 4 cylinder Wisconsin engine sitting on the side of my garage. problem is it's a hand crank start. it was on an old generator. 

it's a VF4 27 hp. i was going to design a log splitter with it...lol....but, i settled for an 18hp engine (electric start) 

the project sounds interesting...post some pictures of the progress!!!!!

good luck with that.


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## kellog (Jun 11, 2007)

*Reply to Old School Nut*

Old School Nut,

You are a glutten for punishment. All that fancy stuff on that splitter may be difficult to get running right all at the same time. I hope you are successful ‘cuz it sounds like a really, really neat project. It would be great to see it in action someday. Good luck.


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## Old_School_Nut (Jun 12, 2007)

thanks for the good words guys.

kellog, I doubt I will have any trouble with anything on the mechanical side or hydraulic side, engines, mechanical movements, hydraulics... are things I am very comfortable with. the biggest issue for me will be carburetion as I am asking what is basically a hay bailer carburetor (albeit modified) to meter fuel correctly for me from zero to maybe 8 pounds of boost (blow through). I think I have it under control, but of course I have to make it hard on myself because I want it to run on alcohol to, this brings up the problem with possible bleed size differences. Main and idle jet size is not an issue as I have adjustable (via screw) jets.

Because this whole issue interests me (and scares me) I have actually been thinking of buying a wide band O2 meter and a EGT gauge to help monitor things while I am splitting. The engine will have thermal shutoffs in the cylinder head as used by Wisconsin engines but I will have one for each cylinder. These switches will ground the mag if the engine gets to hot and kill the engine. The reason for this extreme is due to the fact this is an air cooled engine, and the ability for the engine to cool is dependant on the surface area/fin count around the cylinders and head, of course I cannot add fins to this now that I am installing a turbo to more than double hp so I have to make do with what I have. Of course I could make a water cooled head and install a pusher fan to blow air into the flywheel fan but I want to see how this pans out. This heat issue is also part of the reason I wish to run on alcohol, as alcohol engines run cooler by nature and have more potential to make HP (more knock resistant)

This entire project started so innocently and now its one of the most fun engineering projects I have done. I have blueprints, CNC programs for parts, I even got to learn the math I never understood (or cared to learn) in high school  as well as the stuff I learned in airframe and powerplant school (A&P school/aircraft mechanic school) as well as machining school. (guess i use it for something after all!)

as an admitted gear head I can honestly say this splitter will reflect well with my taste for mechanical things and engineering style. Old fashioned, yet modern and refined, brutally excessive, yet intricately elegant and utilitarian with a simple mechanical beauty of timeless sheet metal, tig welded polished tubing, moving parts and a song of a splitter surely to leave an impression if nothing else does!

-Leo-


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## Old_School_Nut (Jun 12, 2007)




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## kellog (Jun 13, 2007)

Old School Nut,

I sounds like you are doing all the right things to make it work effectively. We will be waiting for the final results. keep us posted.

The pictures in the last post didn't show up for me for some reason.


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## pbtree (Jun 14, 2007)

Dude, this looks like a pretty darn neat undertaking - I want to see some video of it in action when you get to that point....


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## Ductape (Jun 14, 2007)

I love when a guy does something to excess, just for the sport of it !

I was like that when i was younger, but somewhere along the way i turned into my father (god rest his soul!) !!!!!! Now when i come upon a set of black rubber stripes in the road..... i can still hear him say," Damm... i could drive to Hawaii and back with the rubber that guy wasted" and i half agree with him.

Doesn't mean others shouldn't be doing though.

I can't wait to see this rig ! I've always wanted to turbocharge my lil 18hp diesel tractor..... but i'll never get around to it.

Keep the pics coming as you go please!


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## Old_School_Nut (Jun 14, 2007)

yeah, I will post more pictures when I figure out why my last ones didn't post. I think I need to find another host for my pictures, computers are not my thing, thats why I just got a points distributer for my 66 chevy.

as for doing things to excess, its a wonderful thing, its what inspires others, its where ingenuity shines, its where skill as an engineer and fabricator show its merits. To me, its a beautiful thing, it makes people wonder, and it makes people smile, and makes little kids point, how can it get any better be it a car, a truck, a airplane or even a logsplitter?

btw, I have been known to lay some rubber, I think of it as donating to the city, with enough of us on the road they would never have to repave the road with that asphalt sealer stuff as its already done  your dad does have a point though, I use up a set of front and rears in 8 months, between that and gas it hurts.


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## Old_School_Nut (Jun 25, 2007)

lets see if this works... it took forever to upload for me with dial up.

they are pictures of a part I made to adapt the mag to the generator in a haas 3 axis VMC and the other is a closer up shot of the still unfinished parts.


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## Mr. Firewood (Jun 26, 2007)

better hurry, my turbocharged splitter is coming along fast


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## kellog (Jun 26, 2007)

A real "old school nut" would be using something like my Van Norman #2 duplex machine (built sometime between 1897 and 1916) to do that machining job. 

It would be nice to have that kind of equipment for the machining I do. Looks good. Keep us posted.


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## mga (Jun 26, 2007)

must be nice having access to a CNC milling machine.


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## Locoweed (Jun 26, 2007)

Resize your pics and they won't take so long to up load.


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## Old_School_Nut (Jun 26, 2007)

kellog said:


> A real "old school nut" would be using something like my Van Norman #2 duplex machine (built sometime between 1897 and 1916) to do that machining job.
> 
> It would be nice to have that kind of equipment for the machining I do. Looks good. Keep us posted.



thanks guys, yes it is nice to have access to that stuff, lets a guy make dreams reality...

and I hear ya kellog, THATS old school! lol but I think I would be old myself by the time I figure out how to effectively use a machine like that (no mess ups) not to mention make duplicates! lol I do however use an old Sheldon lathe (60+ yo) at work regularly and can hold .001 which is not to bad considering how worn out it is (they were south bends competitor)

as for resize of the pics... I am afraid I don't know how! I can program a CNC but i cant do much more than navigate around on a PC! lol maybe I can find a place to host my pics that will resize them for me.


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## kellog (Jun 27, 2007)

Old School Nut,

I use photobucket (www.photobucket.com) to host my pics. Then all you need is a link in your post and you get easy to access pics with no long wait times to upload your stuff and the user can size the photos as he pleases. There are many other sites that do the same thing. I just happen to use photobucket and are happy with them.


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## CylinderService (Jul 4, 2007)

Just a suggestion for your hydraulic system: you might want to consider a larger tank, or a cooler in the line. Overheating is common on splitters if they're run for long periods, like an hour or more, especially in the summer. What really concerns me is using a flow control to regulate cylinder speed. All the energy you release with the flow control turns into heat. So if you reduce the speed very much, you'll probably produce a lot of heat with it. The minimum tank size is usually considered one minute's worth of oil, and that's with no flow control.

Don the Hydraulics Guy


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## Old_School_Nut (Jul 5, 2007)

CylinderService said:


> Just a suggestion for your hydraulic system: you might want to consider a larger tank, or a cooler in the line. Overheating is common on splitters if they're run for long periods, like an hour or more, especially in the summer. What really concerns me is using a flow control to regulate cylinder speed. All the energy you release with the flow control turns into heat. So if you reduce the speed very much, you'll probably produce a lot of heat with it. The minimum tank size is usually considered one minute's worth of oil, and that's with no flow control.
> 
> Don the Hydraulics Guy



thanks Don for your Reply... I was concerned with heat as well but I was unsure of how much heat I would have to be dealing with and I have even considered using an oil cooler on the return side from the flow control valve or even welding tubing into the tank and blowing air over it (like a radiator on an OLD early 1900's tractor) but the problem with this is that it takes up volume in the tank and I am already space limited and thus the reason I called out less than 28 Gallons to start with... but now since I have room on the other side of the splitter by the engine and i plan on putting an intercooler (for the turbo) their with a mechanically driven fan (via jack shafts) I could place the intercooler in front of the oil cooler and use the fan for both... do you have any idea how much heat I will have to get rid of? I was thinking of leaving it out and adding it if heat became a problem but if its alot of heat I will need to deal with it and add it right off the bat.

I also thought that cavitation would be a problem from the oil returning to the tank from the flow controls at what might be a high volume and thinner hot oil. this is why I saw it as necessary to add an air oil separator in my hydraulic system. I figured with my lack of volume the oil I do have should be in tip top shape. To remove the air in the oil I will use an air oil separator (centrifugal) but to aid in this the tank will be baffled and be taller, skinny and long. As the oil passes through the baffles the oil should eventually be free of air as it enters the tank outlet at the bottom of the tank on the opposite end of the inlet (aka return line). well thats my theory anyways. 

also for anybody who is reading this that is going to design an oil tank, you want about 1/3 of the tank volume to be air space to allow for tank venting, and to help the air separate from the oil. this also helps prevent oil spillage.. one gallon is 231 cubic inch too...


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## mga (Jul 5, 2007)

> also for anybody who is reading this that is going to design an oil tank, you want about 1/3 of the tank volume to be air space to allow for tank venting, and to help the air separate from the oil. this also helps prevent oil spillage.. one gallon is 231 cubic inch too...



true. when i designed mine, i ran the return line down to about an inch off the bottom of the tank. the suction opening is about 1" off the bottom so as to not draw any particles that might be in there.

the baffle is in the center and stands about 3/4 of the height of the tank. the two bottom corners are cut away about an inch or so. the baffle does a great job of preventing the oil from swishing around and it definately keeps air bubbles out of the system. when running, if i remove the filler cap, i can watch the oil flowing over the top of the baffle and there is no turbulence at all inside the tank.

as for cooling the oil, i was thinking of running a 24" piece of base board heating element on the return line. since there is very little pressure here, it should hold up and the fins should dissipate heat. but, that's a winter project......


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## CylinderService (Jul 5, 2007)

I like MGA's idea for a simple cooler - never tried it though.
The amount of heat you'll need to deal with is often expressed as Hp, and is calculated as a percentage of the input Hp. 25% is a common assumption, but your flow control will add to it, depending on the percent of flow diverted. 
A cooler's effectiveness is related to its size and the volume of oil running through it of course, but also importantly to the amount and temperature of the air blowing through it. You should try for 150 degrees F as a final temp. 
A good shroud which forces the air directly through the fins makes a big difference, preventing the air from blowing around the cooler. I had a customer once who went through a $1200 pump every 6 months until they put the shroud back on the cooler!
Tank design: I often recommend making a long rectangular tank with a baffle running the long way. Both the in and out ports are in the same end of the tank, but on opposite sides of the baffle, 1 -2 inches from the bottom. The return hole must be near the bottom - if it comes in above the oil level, air will be churned into the oil. The holes in the baffle are only on the other end, so the oil has to run to the other end of the tank and back before it gets back to the suction port. (It doesn't usually go over the top of the baffle) If the filler hole is in the center, you'll have less of a sloshing problem.
I don't think you'll have any air in the oil from the flow control - there shouldn't be any source of air, and good oil shouldn't have many volatile compounds that an ordinary tank wouldn't let settle out. I wouldn't bother with a separator unless you find it necessary after trying it out. I think heat is a much more likely issue. 


Don


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## drmiller100 (Jul 9, 2007)

for a really stupid, simple cooler, build the oil tank such that you ahve a container on top that holds water, and shares a tank wall with the return oil.

or, to visualize, a giant bowl as the top fo the oil tank full of water. when it starts boiling, you know it has reached 220, and it takes a LOT of heat to boil any significant amount of water.


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## CylinderService (Jul 9, 2007)

I foresee 2 problems with such a cooler:

1. a single steel wall will transmit heat, but probably not at a sufficient rate to remove it from the oil as fast as it is being produced by an inefficient system. That's why commercial coolers use lots of small tubes & fins, to increase the metal surface area.

2. water certainly does absorb a lot of heat to boil, but 212 degrees is way too hot for the oil in a hydraulic system. Standard seals start to break down at 180 degrees, and worse, most hydraulic oil gets so thin that the pump parts start to score & gall from lack of sufficient lubrication. 150 degrees F is often considered a good maximum hydraulic oil temperature.


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## Old_School_Nut (Jul 13, 2007)

thanks for the thoughts guys.

Don, you are right their should't be any air in the system, but i figure when the line is empty (when it is not being used it may drain out) and the flow control opens it may foam from the sudden high volume of oil into a line with air in the line, of course not for long and probably of little worry compared to the heat I will have to deal with.

anyways i will be looking for a cheap cooler for 30 GPM, any other ideas gents?

this is what i may pick up for an intercooler






a small but thick oil cooler would work well for me.


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## mga (Jul 13, 2007)

...and mount a 12 volt fan to the back of it.


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## triptester (Jul 13, 2007)

Mga's idea of using a section of baseboard tubing sounds pretty good. It is fairly inexpensive, easy to work with , and allows you to design to fit. A single strait line or short sections could be stacked depending on space allowed.


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## Old_School_Nut (Jul 14, 2007)

how big is the tubing in them heaters? I am running 3/4 inch line and flowing 28 GPM....

also for the intercooler (for the turbo) I do not want to run an electric fan. I wish for everything to operate without a battery if needed so I will drive the fan mechanicaly with the jackshafts for my water pump, and oil pump for my turbo, as well as a mechanical fuel pump that can keep up with my fuel requirements under boost (you have to raise fuel pressure with boost)

btw, I am keeping her at 6 volt! its an antique engine so it only seams fitting. it is my opinion that if you keep things tight and bright 6 volt is plenty and I have had no problems starting my 1949 ford 8n in -20 weather with 6 volt, (I wont be splitting in that weather anyways) only get one or two shots though!


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## triptester (Jul 14, 2007)

Baseboard usually have 3/4" copper tube some may have 1" or larger.


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## STLfirewood (Jul 14, 2007)

Old_School_Nut said:


> thanks for the thoughts guys.
> 
> Don, you are right their should't be any air in the system, but i figure when the line is empty (when it is not being used it may drain out) and the flow control opens it may foam from the sudden high volume of oil into a line with air in the line, of course not for long and probably of little worry compared to the heat I will have to deal with.
> 
> ...




Looks like an intercooler off of a DSM 1995 and up edition. I use to race those cars. Make sure to check the pipes where the hoses slide on. They had a problem with getting pin holes in them. Also was it out real good with gas or a thinner. The cars had the Valve cover vent go back through the turbo so the intercooler would get an oil film on the inside of it. If the turbo went out sometimes they would fill the intercooler with oil.

Scott


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## ray benson (Jul 15, 2007)

The 2 cyl. modified 54 cu. in. motor should supply way more horsepower than the pump needs. Lowering the engine speed should allow you to regulate ram speed.


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## Old_School_Nut (Jul 16, 2007)

that is true Ray, but if I want boost I am going to have to do more than just idle, becides I cant charge my battery at idle, and if I always ran her at lower RPM my battery would never get charged (i will have work lights), its all about excess anyways! 


and yes Scott, it is a DSM intercooler! thanks for the heads up, I have never played with these little guys..


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## Old_School_Nut (Jul 30, 2007)

well yesterday on my way back from the Oshkosh Airshow I picked up the DSM intercooler pictured for my induction system, it looks like a nice little compact unit that will fit nicely on my splitter. 

still need a BOV to make my hunt for induction system parts complete.

this gets more and more fun as I get more parts


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## STLfirewood (Jul 31, 2007)

Get a 1990-1994 BOV off a Eagle Talon (DSM). They were the best prouction BOV ever made. Don;t go 95 and up. They are plasctic and leak after 11psi. When you get the BOV get the pipe it bolts on. That willhelp with the install. It's metal so you can weld on it if you want.

Scott


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## Old_School_Nut (Jul 31, 2007)

STLfirewood said:


> Get a 1990-1994 BOV off a Eagle Talon (DSM). They were the best prouction BOV ever made. Don;t go 95 and up. They are plasctic and leak after 11psi. When you get the BOV get the pipe it bolts on. That willhelp with the install. It's metal so you can weld on it if you want.
> 
> Scott



Sweet, thanks for the info!!!


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## Old_School_Nut (Aug 13, 2007)

well, I been working on the splitter on and off, machined a large notch in the generator housing to clear the block, the generator housing is .020 thick right now by the block and I do not wish to machine more off unless I have to. Next I have to make a tool to measure how thick the wall is on my engine block, I am hoping I can machine about .125 off to make the generator clear the block easy... after that I need to machine some threaded pipe thread holes for a dipstick and oil fill as the orginal is blocked by my generator and magneto, the other side is blocked by the starter... fun fun!

of course, I have to figure out how to increase my oil supply for my engine as my rather limited oil supply will get hot in a hurry with a turbo, I dont care to make a new oil pan...

-Leo-


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## mga (Aug 14, 2007)

> of course, I have to figure out how to increase my oil supply for my engine as my rather limited oil supply will get hot in a hurry with a turbo, I dont care to make a new oil pan...



how about a "remote" oil filter. the lines running to it could go thru a small radiator. they make those small ones for transmission cooling.....

just trying to think at 6 am....lol


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## fast*st (Aug 14, 2007)

Hmm, badass project, now my head is screwed on sideways, but would 
hydraulic pressure be a good source for turbo oil? any other pics so far?
Would need some kind of pressure reducer, 2500 psi might crack the turbo 
housing and send the seals into the next town. 

-Jason


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## Old_School_Nut (Aug 14, 2007)

mga said:


> how about a "remote" oil filter. the lines running to it could go thru a small radiator. they make those small ones for transmission cooling.....
> 
> just trying to think at 6 am....lol



yeah, she will have a remote filter as well as a small pump to move the oil to the turbo, however I do not wish to add a cooler unless I have to, besides it is an air cooled engine and does not hold much oil to start with, this is a good excuse to add oil capacity... the problem with an oil cooler is over cooling, I will need a valve to bypass the cooler when it is cold out or she will have a hard time warming up. 

you are right though, an oil cooler WITH a bypass would work nicely, I already need to rig up a fan for my intercooler...

-Leo-


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## Old_School_Nut (Aug 14, 2007)

fast*st said:


> Hmm, badass project, now my head is screwed on sideways, but would
> hydraulic pressure be a good source for turbo oil? any other pics so far?
> Would need some kind of pressure reducer, 2500 psi might crack the turbo
> housing and send the seals into the next town.
> ...



yeah, I don't want to go much over 60 psi max for the turbo feed line....

hyd splitter oil could be used for the turbo if it could stand the heat of the turbo, which I question and I sided on the safe side against it. high temps with even engine oil can coak up a turbo if allowed to get to hot, hydraulic oil has different qualitys than, say, diesel engine oil which makes me caution against it.

I will need to take some pics, been awhile.


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## drako (Aug 16, 2007)

*old school nut*

:chainsawguy: so i finally got to read all of this. i havent been on here since 
4-18-07 lol. so, what do you think about another road trip? we got two choices & i think its that time. minnesota or indiana? lol i wonder if we can post videos on here, give the boys a first person view when she's in action lol
:chainsawguy:


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## Old_School_Nut (Aug 17, 2007)

drako said:


> so i finally got to read all of this. i havent been on here since
> 4-18-07 lol. so, what do you think about another road trip? we got two choices & i think its that time. minnesota or indiana? lol i wonder if we can post videos on here, give the boys a first person view when she's in action lol



yeah, you ought to get on here more! 

yeah, been awhile since we been on a road trip... do you have a video recorder?


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## drako (Aug 17, 2007)

*sure do*

:chainsawguy: i sure so have a video camera, its a nice one too. it can also take digital pictures. :chainsawguy:


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## boostnut (Dec 19, 2007)

Any updates on this project? As you can tell by my username anything turbo powered catches my eye, to me this is a very cool project. I'd love to see new pics of your progress.


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## TIMberbear (Dec 19, 2007)

*Alcohol*

Gave any thoughts about not using the cooler? Coolers work great on gasoline bcause gas tends to detonate with more boost. Alcohol runs cooler than gasoline, helping to lower temps and the probability of detonation. Ive also heard that alcohol left in system can do some bad stuff. Not so much turning to jelly but corrosion.


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## TIMberbear (Jan 1, 2008)

*been a month*

anything new?


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## Old_School_Nut (Feb 29, 2008)

well No real news yet, I am going to use the cooler, initial testing and tuning will be with gasoline... after its found to be all good i will use alcohol....

as for progress, I don't have much as I have been working 6 days a week up to 14 hours a day+ removing the relentless snow here in southern WI from my long, hilly driveway in the woods as well as my neighbors and fixing equipment (tractors, skid steers etc.) used for snow removal and even a head swap on my daily driver (after blowing head gaskets and sticking 3 valves open and hitting the pistons..., been a crazy and expensive last few months for me, 

however before things got to crazy i finished up all the machine work to the block minus one NPT hole for a turbo oil drain back line. I got some good tires and beadblasted some old school steel rims too, (dry rotted rusty rims are on her now) goal is to get her roadworthy so i can get her to my work where i have access to a nice water cooled tig to play with when building linkages, modifying coolers and so forth....

-Leo-


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## cabinman (Mar 1, 2008)

*Hp*



Old_School_Nut said:


> well No real news yet, I am going to use the cooler, initial testing and tuning will be with gasoline... after its found to be all good i will use alcohol....
> 
> as for progress, I don't have much as I have been working 6 days a week up to 14 hours a day+ removing the relentless snow here in southern WI from my long, hilly driveway in the woods as well as my neighbors and fixing equipment (tractors, skid steers etc.) used for snow removal and even a head swap on my daily driver (after blowing head gaskets and sticking 3 valves open and hitting the pistons..., been a crazy and expensive last few months for me,
> 
> ...



How many Hp is the orignal mfgs rating,..Thanks Eric


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## Streblerm (Mar 1, 2008)

*Cheap and easy BOV*

If you are still looking for a BOV, do a search for "grainger valve." There is a ton of info on how to build a cheap, adjustable BOV. It is so named because the valve comes from Grainger's supply. Here's a link.

http://www.dempseybowling.com/perform/grainger.htm


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## user 19670 (Mar 1, 2008)

Old_School_Nut said:


> thanks guys, yes it is nice to have access to that stuff, lets a guy make dreams reality...
> 
> and I hear ya kellog, THATS old school! lol but I think I would be old myself by the time I figure out how to effectively use a machine like that (no mess ups) not to mention make duplicates! lol I do however use an old Sheldon lathe (60+ yo) at work regularly and can hold .001 which is not to bad considering how worn out it is (they were south bends competitor)
> 
> as for resize of the pics... I am afraid I don't know how! I can program a CNC but i cant do much more than navigate around on a PC! lol maybe I can find a place to host my pics that will resize them for me.



Hi,
This may be of some help in figuring out how to resize pics. Hopefully you use Windows XP because that is what this instruction is for:

http://my.tbaytel.net/nitesky/resizing.doc

I had to upload it to my website because it exceeds AS size limits (pun unintentional). It requires MS Office or Open Office to open.


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## Old_School_Nut (Mar 1, 2008)

cabinman said:


> How many Hp is the orignal mfgs rating,..Thanks Eric



factory governed HP was 18 hp


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## Old_School_Nut (Mar 2, 2008)

Gordie said:


> Hi,
> This may be of some help in figuring out how to resize pics. Hopefully you use Windows XP because that is what this instruction is for:
> 
> http://my.tbaytel.net/nitesky/resizing.doc
> ...



Thanks for the help, unfortunately i am now running linux and am still getting used to it. i always used windows 98 before this. seems like a pretty powerfull OS however.

-Leo-


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## user 19670 (Mar 2, 2008)

Old_School_Nut said:


> Thanks for the help, unfortunately i am now running linux and am still getting used to it. i always used windows 98 before this. seems like a pretty powerfull OS however.
> 
> -Leo-



Hmm, I run Slackware Linux. Didn't think anyone would need something that wasn't for Windows.

Am actually still using a Windows app. through Wine (FastStone Photo Resizer). Can't find anything really easy to use and simple for Linux to do batch resize and batch rename but am still looking.

Cheers to you


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## user 19670 (Mar 2, 2008)

You can try this. I just installed it and it works as well as the Windows PowerToy for resizing but no rename. Just select the images and use a right button click to resize (under the "Actions" submenu).

I use KDE so I can use "Bulk Rename" that is in "Utilities" in my program menu for renaming if so desired.

Hope this helps. I have been looking for days and nights to find such a simple program for Linux. It does bulk resize and leaves the original unchanged.

Look here ===> http://tinyurl.com/2lhuna


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## Old_School_Nut (Nov 30, 2018)

well gents its been at least ten years since I posted here but I didn't forget about this tread!..... my computer got hit by lighting 3 or 4 times in one month, after changing dial up modems so many times I ended up giving up a home computer, I graduated college and lost my only other internet connection.... I ended up working on Helicopters full time, as a mechanic, machinist, and welder, naturally I gravitated towards fabbing and now am shop supervisor of the fab shop here and am busy designing equipment, and medical mounts to mount medical equipment in medflight helicopters.... I still have this project, all the parts were put in the house where it lays unfinished as a reminder.... I now have even better equipment to work with and even crazier projects. as life and time allow I will continue to update this!


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