# MS 660 with a 42in bar?



## Bayoucut (Mar 11, 2017)

I live down in Louisiana and will be mostly cutting Oak and Cypress. Working with wood is a hobby of mine not a full time job. My question is can I get away with milling on a 660 using a 42in bar vs having to get the 880? I'll only use it for milling maybe 5 times a year on trees with a diameter of about 3-4ft.


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## Boogedy_Man (Mar 12, 2017)

I mill up to 36" wide with my 661. In hardwoods that's as wide as I want to go and makes me long for an 880.

That said, some folks mill wider with the same powerhead. I know a local fellow that mills up to 48" with an Echo 8000. He's a two-three time a year miller.


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## SeMoTony (Mar 13, 2017)

Bayoucut said:


> I live down in Louisiana and will be mostly cutting Oak and Cypress. Working with wood is a hobby of mine not a full time job. My question is can I get away with milling on a 660 using a 42in bar vs having to get the 880? I'll only use it for milling maybe 5 times a year on trees with a diameter of about 3-4ft.


My avatar shows ms-460 Alaskan 60" cannon which carries a skip chisel Oregon chain. The powerhead pulls that chain well with a 42" bar thru white oak or ash here in Missouri . Now that I have a 661 cuts are quicker using same chain ( reel not empty yet) and it throws chips about 9 feet. Chain sharpness more important . 660 should carry you very well with sharp cutters & right raker height IMHO.


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## BlackCoffin (Mar 14, 2017)

I've been milling maple and fir with my 36" granberg and ms660. If you let the saw do its work and don't force it through the cut then it's slow, but steady. I usually have an 038 Super for smaller milling jobs with a 20" bar, but recently used the ms660 and what a difference! If you don't mind taking your time and letting the saw do the work then you should be fine for as little use you've projected using it. Although I have recently purchased an ms880 for the sole purpose of faster cut times and larger wood capabilities. I still use my ms660 for felling and wouldn't want to burn it up for the sole purpose of seeing how big of bar I can mill with.


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## Bayoucut (Mar 14, 2017)

Thanks everyone for the knowledge


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## Johnnybar (Mar 14, 2017)

Bayoucut said:


> I live down in Louisiana and will be mostly cutting Oak and Cypress. Working with wood is a hobby of mine not a full time job. My question is can I get away with milling on a 660 using a 42in bar vs having to get the 880? I'll only use it for milling maybe 5 times a year on trees with a diameter of about 3-4ft.


Lots of guys are milling with the 660 and 36" mills. Just don't try setting production records and you'll be fine. A typical 36" mill can handle 33" width logs max. Here's mine with the 42" bar ready to go in the mill:


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## Bayoucut (Mar 17, 2017)

SeMoTony said:


> My avatar shows ms-460 Alaskan 60" cannon which carries a skip chisel Oregon chain. The powerhead pulls that chain well with a 42" bar thru white oak or ash here in Missouri . Now that I have a 661 cuts are quicker using same chain ( reel not empty yet) and it throws chips about 9 feet. Chain sharpness more important . 660 should carry you very well with sharp cutters & right raker height IMHO.




I have a full skip chisel Oregon chain, do I need a Ripping Chain for milling? Also, would you suggest a standard for felling?


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## Johnnybar (Mar 17, 2017)

Bayoucut said:


> I have a full skip chisel Oregon chain, do I need a Ripping Chain for milling? Also, would you suggest a standard for felling?


You are on track with your ripping thoughts, your can regrind a standard chain to 0 to 10 / 50 / 0 to -10 and it will work for you. Your skip will fell just fine.


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## Johnnybar (Mar 17, 2017)

Under 15 minutes total time for two cuts in 10'X24" red Oak. Very pleased with the 660 and it's not even fully broken in yet.


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## SeMoTony (Mar 17, 2017)

Bayoucut said:


> I have a full skip chisel Oregon chain, do I need a Ripping Chain for milling? Also, would you suggest a standard for felling?


I rarely fell, I've used carlton ripping which bogged down my ms-460 part way thru wide cuts. As Bobl has indicated from time to time even travel/push down the log holding the bar angle to log even (not rocking back and forth) plays a larger part in quality of surface than which chain. Learn sharpening ,including raker height, to provide best cutter you can. Slab safe


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## Johnnybar (Mar 17, 2017)

SeMoTony said:


> I rarely fell, I've used carlton ripping which bogged down my ms-460 part way thru wide cuts. As Bobl has indicated from time to time even travel/push down the log holding the bar angle to log even (not rocking back and forth) plays a larger part in quality of surface than which chain. Learn sharpening ,including raker height, to provide best cutter you can. Slab safe


That Red Oak I posted was cut with cheap Archer TriLink white box (no longer available) which was reground to 10/50/-10 for ripping.


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## Bayoucut (Mar 17, 2017)

Johnnybar said:


> That Red Oak I posted was cut with cheap Archer TriLink white box (no longer available) which was reground to 10/50/-10 for ripping.




I've seen a lot of youtube videos about custom grinding to become a ripping chain, just makes me nervous because I've never done it and I would hate to get it off balance. That red Oak looks outstanding! Have you used the Grandberg 12 volt sharpener?


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## Johnnybar (Mar 17, 2017)

Bayoucut said:


> I've seen a lot of youtube videos about custom grinding to become a ripping chain, just makes me nervous because I've never done it and I would hate to get it off balance. That red Oak looks outstanding! Have you used the Grandberg 12 volt sharpener?


Chinese 410-120 copy was used. Picked it up for $69 shipped.


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## DonnerParty (Mar 17, 2017)

I run a 50" bar and 48" mill on my 661. It pulls it just fine. To start, just use whatever chain you have. It will work fine. I start out with a standard chain and slowly adjust the angles each time I sharpen. Sure, the lower angles provide a bit of a smoother surface, but it's no deal-breaker at 30 degrees. The rest of your setup and your technique have a much larger impact.


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## Johnnybar (Mar 17, 2017)

DonnerParty said:


> I run a 50" bar and 48" mill on my 661. It pulls it just fine. To start, just use whatever chain you have. It will work fine. I start out with a standard chain and slowly adjust the angles each time I sharpen. Sure, the lower angles provide a bit of a smoother surface, but it's no deal-breaker at 30 degrees. The rest of your setup and your technique have a much larger impact.


Re profiling does not shorten the life of the chain at all...only the corner or hook should is removed until the new angle meets the inside edge of the top plate. The 50 deg top plate makes for easy cutting in hard wood. On smaller saws I have used in the past, I found, if trying to rip with standard chain, the much sharper side plate/gullet would gouge the face of the slab terribly...I believe that was in some red oak also.


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## rarefish383 (Mar 21, 2017)

These were close to 24" Red Oak and after the fourth one the chain started to show a little sign of loosing it's edge. Was no problem for the 660, Joe.


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## Johnnybar (Mar 21, 2017)

Third cut in the spalted Red Oak I've been slabbing with a 42" bar, Huztl 660, 36" mill and Archer semi chisel reground to ripping profile.


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## rarefish383 (Mar 21, 2017)

I was going to get a 42 or 47 inch bar when I got my 660. I told the salesman I was going to use it for milling and he said no problem. I had 25", 36" and 47" bars and was ready to check out and he said I might want to wait and get the 47" bar later, it would void my warranty. Every time I get a few bucks together to buy a 47" bar, I buy another gun instead, Joe.


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## Johnnybar (Mar 21, 2017)

rarefish383 said:


> I was going to get a 42 or 47 inch bar when I got my 660. I told the salesman I was going to use it for milling and he said no problem. I had 25", 36" and 47" bars and was ready to check out and he said I might want to wait and get the 47" bar later, it would void my warranty. Every time I get a few bucks together to buy a 47" bar, I buy another gun instead, Joe.


I picked up the new 42" PowerMatch for $80 shipped...it fits the 36" mill perfectly. If you can still find them at that price, stock up. The dealer said the price will likely jump before much longer.


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## TreeJoe (Mar 22, 2017)

This guy makes some good points on chains. Most important part of the milling equation. 

http://www.sawmillchainsaws.com/sawchains.htm


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## BobL (Mar 22, 2017)

TreeJoe said:


> This guy makes some good points on chains. Most important part of the milling equation.
> http://www.sawmillchainsaws.com/sawchains.htm



Id' be taking that info with a few grains of salt.
That web page recommends a fixed raker depth of 35"' .
This will be WAAAY to aggressive when the chain is new, in wide, hardwood. 
And it won't be anywhere near aggressive enough when the cutters are worn, especially in narrow, softwoods.
Check out "progressive raker setting" - this sets the raker depts from ~25"' when new to >50"' when the chain is old.


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## Johnnybar (Mar 28, 2017)

TreeJoe said:


> This guy makes some good points on chains. Most important part of the milling equation.
> 
> http://www.sawmillchainsaws.com/sawchains.htm



There may be good info there but I'll stick with personal experience. Cutter/raker grind has to take available power into account. My 10/50/-10 Archer comp semi-chisel works about as good as one can expect on a 36" mill / 660 rig. Proofs in the puddin':


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