# Norwood Portable Mills



## Wismer (Mar 30, 2007)

Guys,

I am looking into a sawmill and was wondering if any one has experience with Norwood? I am looking at the Lumbermate 2000, Lumberlite 24, and the Chainsaw Porta Mill

Any advice or feedback?


Thanks alot,

Craig


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Mar 30, 2007)

opcorn:opcorn: Waiting on Sawyer Rob and The WoodButcher...


In the meantime, do a search for Norwood in this forum. There is a lot on info on them. See if this link works...

http://www.arboristsite.com/search.php?searchid=1008360


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## WRW (Mar 30, 2007)

Wismer said:


> Guys,
> 
> I am looking into a sawmill and was wondering if any one has experience with Norwood? I am looking at the Lumbermate 2000, Lumberlite 24, and the Chainsaw Porta Mill
> 
> ...



What kind of advice you looking for? How you gonna use it?

They are good enough machines. Get the most HP you can and keep the teeth sharp...I'm not familiar with the Lumberlite and chainsaw mills.


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## Wismer (Mar 31, 2007)

WRW said:


> What kind of advice you looking for? How you gonna use it?



just wondering how people liked them

It will get a decent amount of use. By no means everyday but between a large farm, hunt camp and a few small woodlots i will get some sawing in.

I'm opting for the Lumbermate over the smaller LumberLite because the Lumberlite can only handle 24" logs which i am afraid might be too small.

I looked at the chainsaw mill ( The "portamill") cause you can basically saw any log your bar is big enough for, but you waste a ton of wood and i imagine it would be a prety rough cut


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## Ianab (Mar 31, 2007)

The chainsaw mills are actually suprisingly accurate and smooth... but you are right about the sawdust and they a nowhere near as fast as a good bandmill. 

The Norwoods seem to have a good reputation as a value for money sawmill.

Cheers

Ian


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## WRW (Apr 1, 2007)

OK, sounds like it would be great for your application. I'm quite pleased with mine. From what I've read, the band mills are a bit faster than the chainsaw mills...that's why I got the band type.


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## oldsaw (Apr 1, 2007)

Got a buddy with a Norwood Mk 4. It does quite well.

Mark


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## burlman (Apr 1, 2007)

I have used a norwood and found it a little awkward to use. I settled on a cmampion band mill built in Quebec, very user friendly, bigger moter can handle 30in. logs by 16' standard, has built in rollers for placing logs and removing big cants. and it came out cheaper than my neighbors norwood, and I didn't have to assemble it. check them out at (www.championsawmills.com) or is it .ca .... I have been in the custom sawing game for 20 years and tried different machines but this one, for a little over $8000 is a really great machine for the price


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## WRW (Apr 1, 2007)

burlman said:


> I have used a norwood and found it a little awkward to use. I settled on a cmampion band mill built in Quebec, very user friendly, bigger moter can handle 30in. logs by 16' standard, has built in rollers for placing logs and removing big cants. and it came out cheaper than my neighbors norwood, and I didn't have to assemble it. check them out at (www.championsawmills.com) or is it .ca .... I have been in the custom sawing game for 20 years and tried different machines but this one, for a little over $8000 is a really great machine for the price



If trailering is a factor...is that an option?


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## KurtFromJersey (Apr 1, 2007)

The Norwood 2000 is gonna be my next mill. It oughta be a pleasure after chain saw milling. I've done a lota research and it seems to be the best bang for the buck in my opinion! I can't wait!


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## Andy Harden (Apr 1, 2007)

KurtFromJersey said:


> The Norwood 2000 is gonna be my next mill. It oughta be a pleasure after chain saw milling. I've done a lota research and it seems to be the best bang for the buck in my opinion! I can't wait!




Norwood mills are great but have you looked at Logmaster?
http://www.logmaster.com/index.htm


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## burlman (Apr 2, 2007)

*champion trailering*

With the champion mill the trailer is an option if you want to go mobile. The mill slides off as a complete unit onto wood blocks, you need about 12 in. clearance so the sqyaring posts can drop down. What is nice is after you are set up you have a dandy little trailer to haul your wood around. I found the first time loading up was a little awkward, but have since mounted a hand winch on the trailer and pulls it right up with ease


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Apr 2, 2007)

burlman said:


> With the champion mill the trailer is an option if you want to go mobile. The mill slides off as a complete unit onto wood blocks, you need about 12 in. clearance so the sqyaring posts can drop down. What is nice is after you are set up you have a dandy little trailer to haul your wood around. I found the first time loading up was a little awkward, but have since mounted a hand winch on the trailer and pulls it right up with ease



I'd like to see some pics of your setup.opcorn: opcorn:


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## burlman (Apr 3, 2007)

sorry aggie I'm not wis enough to post pictures yet, at least by myself. We live in the sticks, with dial up only service. last time I sent pictures of the deer hunt to my brother it took about 5 min, a picture to load. If a picture is worth a thosand words I could give you a long description


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 4, 2007)

I STILL think that Norwoods Lumbermate is the best full size manual bandmill for the least dollars spent. Mine just keeps on keeping on!!

Rob







My Sawmill Picts.. http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumList?u=4378744&f=0


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## burlman (Apr 4, 2007)

*change of address*

sorry gang wismer informed me that the adress I gave did not work for champion sawmills. I doubled checked, it should be ( www.gilbert-sawmill.ca/anglais/.html)


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Apr 4, 2007)

burlman said:


> sorry aggie I'm not wis enough to post pictures yet, at least by myself. We live in the sticks, with dial up only service. last time I sent pictures of the deer hunt to my brother it took about 5 min, a picture to load. If a picture is worth a thosand words I could give you a long description



Well.......opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Apr 4, 2007)

burlman said:


> sorry gang wismer informed me that the adress I gave did not work for champion sawmills. I doubled checked, it should be ( www.gilbert-sawmill.ca/anglais/.html)



That link had an extra "/" in it. This one works.

http://www.gilbert-sawmill.ca/anglais.html


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## burlman (Apr 4, 2007)

gee aggie if you ever need a secreterial position with me , you'll be first on the list


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Apr 4, 2007)

burlman said:


> gee aggie if you ever need a secreterial position with me , you'll be first on the list



If I get canned here I'll call you.


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## ropensaddle (Apr 4, 2007)

I looked in to a band mill but they are wavy on knots true usable
lumber or log home would require a lot of planing! The mill I'm study on
now is lucus swingblade more board feet and square edged lumber low
maintenance a little wider kerf! I want a mill that cuts to fine tolerances
to make my cabin and have heard bands cut thick and thin and have to be 
planed to make square


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## ropensaddle (Apr 4, 2007)

Is there any one using the lucus


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Apr 4, 2007)

ropensaddle said:


> I looked in to a band mill but they are wavy on knots true usable
> lumber or log home would require a lot of planing! The mill I'm study on
> now is lucus swingblade more board feet and square edged lumber low
> maintenance a little wider kerf! I want a mill that cuts to fine tolerances
> ...



This is only partially true. A sharp, well tuned blade traveling at the proper speed will run through just about anything wooden, including knots, without deflecting. I would go so far to say that greater than 75% of those claims are a result of improper use. Swingblade mills are great machines as well but they have their own limitations, limited cut capacity being one of them.


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 4, 2007)

> I looked in to a band mill but they are wavy on knots true usable
> lumber or log home would require a lot of planing!



Funny how those that "don't" have a bandmill keep repeating that same thing over and over... AND those of us that "do" own a bandmill and know how to use it, keep turning out excelent quality lumber over and over...

Rob


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## WRW (Apr 5, 2007)

I helped a fellow out with a log cabin and had no problems with wave. 

This year I did get some knotty pine and did get some wave, but it went away when I increased the set on the band I was using.


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## flht01 (Apr 5, 2007)

ropensaddle said:


> Is there any one using the lucus



A bandmill can cut lumber that is more than acceptable for construction use right off the mill. I certainly agree with Rob and Aggie's comments. a little tuning and bandblade knowledge will go a long way in helping produce nice lumber.

I've studied the swingblades and would like to own one someday but not for the same reasons. Handling big wood is a big pita for a csm/bandmill and I think a swinger would be just the ticket. The only comments I'll make about them (since I don't own one) is:



Make sure you buy one big enough to single pass cut the size lumber you think you'll need (in my case it was the 10" model)



Make sure you can double cut without a major effort



Get the most hp you can afford

Good luck


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## KurtFromJersey (Apr 5, 2007)

Champion has dealers all over Canada and France and even Costa-Rica, but none in the US! What a bummer. I still seem to like the Norwood better I think. It just looks beefier. Just my opinion.


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 5, 2007)

I have nothing but good things to saw about my Lumbermate... As for Champion/Morwood or what ever they call themselves these days, they probably don't have good things to say about Norwood, as Norwood sued them and won. I'm not too sure how Morwood/Champion/ ? are doing now that they have to stand up on there "own" two feet and design/build there own parts...

Anyway, anyone who wants to see my LM in action, is welcome to come see how it saws for themselves...

Rob


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## The WoodButcher (Apr 5, 2007)

*100% True Cuts*

*Hi All, I was just passing thru and saw this post. I'm with Rob, Where do all these people get their info? My Lumbermate cuts 100% square and flat or should I say, "wave" free, knots or not. When I have a new blade on, it cuts so smooth it doesn't need sanding let alone plaining. My mill has cut that way from day 1. Swing mills have there place but if you are counting a bandmill out, because of a bunch of hear say, you are making a mistake in a big way. The last pic is the worst "wave" I have seen with my mill and this is from a dull, poorly set blade. A new blade and you don't get that. I have sawn, a lot of top quality lumber with my Lumbermate 2000 and wouldn't trade it for any other mill of the same price. Don't be fooled by someone who doesn't even have one. 
*


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## The WoodButcher (Apr 5, 2007)

*I forgot*

*Hello again, I just remembered I did get a dip in a log one time, and it was because I didn't have the adjustable blade guide tight. That scared me when I saw that. I thought what on earth has happened to my mill:angry2: 
Just had to put this in for honesty's sake. As well as to let you know, I do know what you are talking about.  *


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## Ianab (Apr 5, 2007)

ropensaddle said:


> Is there any one using the lucus



I run a Peterson mill, similar idea to the Lucas.

Here in NZ portable bandmills are really rare, but swingblade or twin blade dimension mills are common. Thats just a result of the large logs and rough country.

Advantages - portability and big logs. I can haul it over a farm behind a quad bike and set it up around a 50-60" dia log. Mill the whole things and haul out the boards. Cutting dimension lumber out of big logs they really produce.

Disadvantages - you have a slightly higher kerf and cant cut wide boards as well as a bandsaw.

But for how I have to operate (big logs, limited machinery and rough locations) it's about the best option. I can see that with smaller logs and machinery to move them a bandmill might be a good option. But I can saw small logs OK as well as the big ones.

Cheers

Ian

This thread has some pics of milling a big tree with a swingblade. http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=40707


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## ropensaddle (Apr 6, 2007)

First off I did not mean to offend band saw owners and have not
made my mind up. The benefits are they cut larger boards and norwood
was one mill I was considering and price was great! I want quality lumber
without extreme planning, and just heard of wavy cuts on a buddy,s log
cabin that was cut off a band mill! He planned 1/2 inch in the middle of
Cyprus 8 inch logs to make them true was a lot of work? The sawyer may 
have been inexperienced I am not sure but I do not want to have all the
trouble my friend had! I can see in my mind bands moving as they come to 
knots and harder wood . The production would seem slower but just what
I picture not from my experience. I also see more maintenance on these
mills but if wrong I have been before so correct me I have not bought
a mill yet! I am studying the pluses and minus cost of operating etc.
also whether market exists for lumber cut to cover the purchase since
I will use it part time! Thanks for any info suggestions appreciated


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## ropensaddle (Apr 6, 2007)

Ianab said:


> I run a Peterson mill, similar idea to the Lucas.
> 
> Here in NZ portable bandmills are really rare, but swingblade or twin blade dimension mills are common. Thats just a result of the large logs and rough country.
> 
> ...



Do the swing blades really cut to 1 thirtysencondth tolerance and to get over 8 inch wide you have to put carriage on otherside of log ? Is that a easy task and does cut on opposite side match ????


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## Ianab (Apr 6, 2007)

> Do the swing blades really cut to 1 thirtysencondth tolerance and to get over 8 inch wide you have to put carriage on otherside of log ? Is that a easy task and does cut on opposite side match ????



I think Peterson claim 1 or 2 mm accuracy depending on the model. Thats 1/25 or 1/12 of an inch. Yes the mills should cut that, but sometimes log tension can cause the log to bow as you cut it, and put your accuracy out a few mm more. Accuracy is not affected much by knots or a blunt blade, you just have to cut slower through hard knots, and when you are cutting slower all the time, then get out the sharpener.

With the Peterson system you just remove the blade guard and move the saw carriage to the other side of the frame and cut with the opposite side of the blade. Not as dangerous as it sounds, the log is now between the operator and the unguarded blade. The cuts can be lined up pretty well if you drop a small shim (like a bottle top) on the horizontal position stop when making the 2nd cut. You can see the line, but it's probably within a mm or so. The Lucas system you have to turn the power head carriage around, although I believe the new ones make this simpler buy letting you swivel the carriage by placing the blade horizontal on the top of the log, lowering the rails and swiveling around the blade.

If you are really after wide boards, get a clip on chainsaw slabber. Then you have a 24hp chainsaw mill that can cut 5ft wide. 

Cheers

Ian


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Apr 6, 2007)

ropensaddle said:


> He planned 1/2 inch in the middle of
> Cyprus 8 inch logs to make them true was a lot of work? The sawyer may
> have been inexperienced I am not sure but I do not want to have all the
> trouble my friend had! I can see in my mind bands moving as they come to
> knots and harder wood . Tappreciated



Seems to me the sawyer just didn't give a rats butt. 1/2" is ridiculous.


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## Andy Harden (Apr 6, 2007)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Seems to me the sawyer just didn't give a rats butt. 1/2" is ridiculous.



I say you are correct. Band mills will hold the accuracy with in the thickness of the band.


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 6, 2007)

Norwood says 1/32" accuracy with the LM2000. I'd say if YOU do your part, it will do that good or better.

As for tension in the logs, it's a fact of life, and the logs can and will move more than 1/32"...

My saw will saw 24" "wide" boards, and side to side it's spot on! If it wasn't, i'd ajust it untill is was and end the problem right there.

The band on a bandmill is like the chain on a CSM, if it's sharp and set right it does a great job. If it's dull it doesn't...

As for maintance? My LM has 2 grease zerks, and you put a few drops of oil on the track wipers daily. Put water in the water jug, and gas in the gas tank, other than that all that's left are oil changes.

Band sharpening is like chain saw sharpening. It get dull, you sharpen it. I replace bands as needed and sharpen them when i have a few dull ones. It takes me about 3 or 4 mins to change a band.

I have a CSgrinder to sharpen my chains and a band saw sharpener to sharpen my bands... If you don't want to sharpen them yourself, pay someone else to do it just like with CSchain.

Swing mills are great mills in there place, but most of us never get those huge logs all the time to need one, and band mills can "easily" saw wider lumber.... and look at the cost of those swingers compared to a bandmill... A LM2000 starts out at 5K, and it will handle 32" logs and saw 24" wide!

I don't care what anyone else buys, but it does bug me when i read that "band mills" saw wavy lumber when it's the "operator" sawing the wavy lumber. It's called "operator error"...

Have fun with whatever you choose ...  

Rob


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## elliott (Apr 6, 2007)

I have a Norwood Lumberlite. I've put 24" trees on it, which is the max size they rate it for. I milled a 17" board with it (which is its max), but I have no use for boards like that.

I have the 9hp motor. If I had to do it over, I'd order the 13hp motor. But with a sharp blade, the nine horse motor cuts through wood FAST. I sharpen my blade right there on the mill. It's easiest for me that way. I use a cordless drill and a sharpening stone. The stones go fast, though. I bought a carbide sharpening bit, and I'll start using that and see how long it holds up. I ordered a box of ten blades, and I'm still on the first one. I just resharpen it when I feel that it needs it. The blade that came with the mill broke after a few days of milling. Not sure what happened there. Maybe just a faulty blade. It shot right out of the side of the cover; it went right through the steel. Probably would have sliced a man in half if he was standing beside the mill. Kinda scary.

I've had it since mid-February, and I've milled a little over 100 eleven foot long 2x10's, and I still need about 100 more. I've milled about a dozen 2x12's and a couple dozen 2x8's, with an additional 50 or so 2x8's needed still. I'm telling you this so that you know the Lumberlite can mill plenty of lumber if you need it to. Wish I had a camera. I'd show you some action shots of the Lumberlite.

In the end, my recommendation would actually be "go bigger". Get the biggest motor and mill that you can afford. You'll appreciate it.


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## Wismer (Apr 12, 2007)

Thanks for the help guys. I am pretty sure I am going to go with Norwood. I like the simplicity and the chance to put it together yourself so I can know how it works, and some one didn't put it together wrong.

Those of you with Norwood Lumbermates:

I am pretty much positive I'll get the trailer package, is there any other options I should consider?


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 12, 2007)

> Those of you with Norwood Lumbermates:
> 
> I am pretty much positive I'll get the trailer package, is there any other options I should consider?


 It depends... 

What EXACTLY do you want the mill to do for you??? 

What size and kind of logs will you be sawing??

Rob


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## Wismer (Apr 12, 2007)

I won't be milling every day by any stretch. Probably not even every weekend. We want it to mill on the farm, and up at the cottage. After I learn some skills on the machine I might do some small jobs for other people. The logs will be anywhere from 20 inches plus. Probably a couple that are even bigger than the 31" max. limit on the mill. 

Also, Rob, do you ever have logs bigger than the mill can handle? What do you do with them?


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 12, 2007)

> I won't be milling every day by any stretch. Probably not even every weekend. We want it to mill on the farm, and up at the cottage. After I learn some skills on the machine I might do some small jobs for other people. The logs will be anywhere from 20 inches plus. Probably a couple that are even bigger than the 31" max. limit on the mill.
> 
> Also, Rob, do you ever have logs bigger than the mill can handle? What do you do with them?



Personally speaking, for your purpose i could live with the Honda 13 that comes with the mill. "If" you really think you need more power, i'd go with the B&S 23.

Std. mill will saw 13' logs, then 4' extensions are available. I have 2 but my old mills had 1 and it was pretty good as i could saw 16' logs then.

Sawing for grade (and you should with better logs) you will need to raise the small end of the log. You can use a big block of wood and a sissors jack out of a car, or you can spring for the toe board package Norwood sells. I started out with the sissors jack, and then bought the toe board package... I really like the toe board package Norwood sells!!

I would NOT have my mill without the log turner package! It takes all the heavy work out of turning big logs!!! It actually comes as a "loader/turner" package...

You will need a canthook. Norwood sells one, but the handle is too short... Don't buy a canthook with a short handle.

I like the optional log post... I have them on every bunk now, and i'm so use to them i now only use my standard ones when i turn logs.

Stainless bunk covers... I like them as it makes the logs turn easier, and they never need attention or stain the lumber...

That's what i'd buy, but maybe you have different needs? One thing is, you can buy most options later and just bolt them on!

As for oversize logs, i split them with a chainsaw and mill the halves...






















Rob


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