# Electric chain sharpener for milling chain



## ritalinpb (Jul 20, 2008)

Im new to the whole chainsaw milling thing. Just got my first ripping chain and mini mill from baileys and i have a few questions.

1. If i buy a reg electric sharpener what do i have to do to it so that i can sharpen ripping chain? i.e. diff discs what angle etc. 
2. what is the life of a ripping chain? how many passes? ill mainly be doin pine and cedar with a small amount of maple and oak.

Thanks for the help. Im just gettin started this weekend with a small 12in dia cedar thats 4ft long

Im just tryin to get the hang of this with a little 45CC saw and i know im not gonna be able to do big stuff with the saw. Im just testin this adventure out before droppin a grand on a real saw and CSM.


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## BobL (Jul 20, 2008)

ritalinpb said:


> 1. If i buy a reg electric sharpener what do i have to do to it so that i can sharpen ripping chain? i.e. diff discs what angle etc.
> 2. what is the life of a ripping chain? how many passes? ill mainly be doin pine and cedar with a small amount of maple and oak.



I don't have an electric sharpener but I understand you use the same disc but usually a lower top plate angle (10º instead of 30º). I have seen a grinder that does not do 10º so that is worth checking before you buy.

Life of a ripping chain is like asking how long is a piece of string. It basically depends on how often you need to sharpen which in turn depends on how clean and hard your logs are - I hose mine down before I mill. If you are not careful an electric sharpener can remove more metal than necessary for sharpening so that will shorten the life of a chain. At the other end of the scale if the wood is hard and there is not enough oil on the bar the chain (drive and joiner links) can wear out even though there is plenty of cutter left.


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## weisyboy (Jul 20, 2008)

i use the type of sharpener you are talking about only when the chain is badly worn or has hit nails etc. it dose not get it as sharp as with a file/dremmel style sharpener, and removes mutch more material.

i prefer to sharpen with a file freehand but also use a small 12volt sharpener that takes round stones. this is the best thing for you to buy at this stage. it is mutch quicker and the chain can be left on the mill witch is handy if you are cutting verry hard wood where the chain needs a touch after each slab.


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## Zodiac45 (Jul 20, 2008)

Almost all the chain grinders (except for the really cheapo units) will do all types of chain. The chain vise rotates from 0 degrees too 35 degrees in both directions, so you have a choice of any angle within that range. The different wheels are for different size/pitch chains. You sharpen the ripping chain that same way you'd do a regular chain (besides the angle). Always use a light toch and just skim the tooth. The material you take off is a product of how well you set up the grinder. If you set it up too just skim the tooth you'll get a razor sharp consistent chain each and every time.


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## BobL (Jul 20, 2008)

Zodiac45 said:


> Almost all the chain grinders (except for the really cheapo units) will do all types of chain.



Square ground?


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## Matildasmate (Jul 20, 2008)

BobL said:


> Square ground?



Yes even square ground , like steve said , the elcheapo's wont though and a good grinder will do a far better job . Cheers MM


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## parrisw (Jul 20, 2008)

I use a grinder allot for doing chains. I just find it does allot better job, more even, sharper. And it doesn't make the chain life any shorter, as long as you don't take too much off, just a light touch. I can hand file just fine, I just like the grinder better. I just find it easier when you have 5 running chainsaws, and multiple chains for each, thats allot of chain to file. The grinder is only as good as the operator. I just converted one chain for my 394 for milling. So I had to grind it allot down to 10deg, now you would never be able to do that by hand filing.


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## ritalinpb (Jul 20, 2008)

thanks for all the quick replies. i think ill try the electric grinder. ill wait till after i mill this small log up north next weekend to make sure this is something i want to really do...even tho im sure ill get hooked!


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## HarryHarley (Jul 25, 2008)

For the money, you can't beat this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93213
But you have to take the chain off the saw to sharpen. If you're like me I have lots of extra chains. I may sharpen a bunch at a time. This sharpens better then the local shop that charges $8.00 a chain.
I also have the Granberg dremmel type that locks on to the bar so you can leave the chain on. It comes in handy too. I prefer the other. Good luck.
Harry


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## landroverbill (Jul 25, 2008)

*use a file*

For what you are doing, I would stick to a quick hand filing after each tank of gas. Don't forget to refill bar oil. When I file by hand I refill gas / oil. I never let the chain get dull( that's a lie. I never intend to let it get dull). After sawing until I feel the chain getting dull, there is a lot more work to get the chain sharp again. Not only that, but it isn't as much fun trying to push a slightly dulled blade through that last pass as it is letting a sharp chain pull me through to the end. Keep it sharp. Use a hand file often( it only takes one or two swipes with a good file).

Bill


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## Trigger-Time (Jul 27, 2008)

For hand filing I have had good luck with "Pferd Chain Sharp Filing Guide"

Bought mine at Baileys http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=17049&catID=

Gary


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## knucklepanshovel (Jul 28, 2008)

HarryHarley said:


> For the money, you can't beat this:
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93213
> But you have to take the chain off the saw to sharpen. If you're like me I have lots of extra chains. I may sharpen a bunch at a time. This sharpens better then the local shop that charges $8.00 a chain.
> I also have the Granberg dremmel type that locks on to the bar so you can leave the chain on. It comes in handy too. I prefer the other. Good luck.
> Harry



can anyone give me advice? anyone have this? how does it perform? I know it wont be as good as a name brand. but I am watching my non existing budget & trying to do everything on the cheap. so far I have always used hand files usually corn cob handles or wood sticks without guides I did have a 12 volt hand held back when I was a teenager cutting firewood but I misplaced it havent seen it in 10 to 15 years. I think I left it behind a seat in one of old trucks I sold I hauled firewood with.

Thank you,
Randy


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## dallasm1 (Jul 30, 2008)

I have purchased the Harbor Freight chain grinder. I tried to get good results but I finally ending up taking the chain saw holder off of the machine, mounting in a vise and hand filing. I might be challenged in this area, but I can hand sharpen faster than I can cut with the grinder. It seems to take too much material at the wrong time, and I think this can ruin the whole chain. I have since bought my milling chain in bulk (404) in 100 foot rolls off of the internet and I am extememly happy with this decision. I can mill softwoods (cedar, fir, hemlock) forever. I am also milling maple, and this does not seem to dull the chain either. I always pressure clean the log and debark.


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## parrisw (Jul 31, 2008)

dallasm1 said:


> I have purchased the Harbor Freight chain grinder. I tried to get good results but I finally ending up taking the chain saw holder off of the machine, mounting in a vise and hand filing. I might be challenged in this area, but I can hand sharpen faster than I can cut with the grinder. It seems to take too much material at the wrong time, and I think this can ruin the whole chain. I have since bought my milling chain in bulk (404) in 100 foot rolls off of the internet and I am extememly happy with this decision. I can mill softwoods (cedar, fir, hemlock) forever. I am also milling maple, and this does not seem to dull the chain either. I always pressure clean the log and debark.



Which Horbor Freight one?? The total POS plastic one?? If so thats your problem.


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## dallasm1 (Jul 31, 2008)

The orange POS plastic one. Yes. I do not recomend buying anything orange colored from HF.


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## Backwood (Jul 31, 2008)

I have read on here that the orange pos grinders from HF will do ok if you change the wheel. Supposedly the wheel that comes on it will never give you a good cut, changing to a good quality wheel is suppose to give a better cut.


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## woodshop (Jul 31, 2008)

I broke down a while back and got a good Maxx grinder, works like a charm and not only saves me a LOT of time, but my teeth are all ground dead on right angle now, and also exact same length. I do also have one of those $30 HF orange grinders. Mine came (think they all do) with only a 1/8 inch grinding wheel, which is OK for 3/8LP chain, but not for standard 3/8th. It will work, but not well. Only time I use it is on rocked chain where I don't want to destroy my good grinding wheel on my Maxx taking so much metal off... so I run it through the HF to get it rough sharp, then finish it off on the Maxx. All that said... unless you sharpen a LOT of chain, it's hard to justify $2-300 for a chain grinder. Of course if you're milling with a chainsaw, you will by default indeed be sharpening a lot of chain. As was said, almost all grinders allow you to adjust the angle to the 0 or 5 or 10 degrees that most milling chain is ground to.


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## Backwood (Jul 31, 2008)

The only one I have seen that will not go to 10degrees is a 12volt that baileys sells


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## Zodiac45 (Aug 1, 2008)

I believe the Harbor Freight grinder people are talking about (that is decent) is the $100 clone of the Oregon 511A. These are the large bench mount type with 5 3/4" wheels and fully articulating chain vise.


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