# Circle saw blade



## Tom1 (Apr 4, 2008)

*Circular saw blade*

Hi all, Newbie here. 

I've been lurking for a little while. This site has a lot a great information!

I have acquired a handset circular mill I could use a blade for, 51 to 56". Anyone know where to get a good used blade, cheap? I've attached a photo of the mill along with one of my little Chainsaw mill. The little mill is a Stihl MS310 w/20"bar (a little slow but it gets the job done) and the big mill of course needs a much bigger motor and has 48' of track.

Thanks in advance for your comments, help and nice to meet you.

Tom


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## fubar2 (Apr 4, 2008)

Did you say cheap? Aint no such thing.


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## Mike Van (Apr 5, 2008)

Tom, I get a sale catalog every month from http://www.tms-sales.com/ They're online at this link. You can also search google.com, maybe find one close to you, as the shipping [truck] will be $$$$$$$$. Keep us posted!


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## big daddio (Apr 5, 2008)

hey tom. the trade paper American Lumber & Pallet [www.amlumber.com] has lots of ads from sawmill suppliers all over the country. probably find an outfit near you. is that a frick mill? looks like one to me but it's been a while since i've been around one. good luck with it.


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## Tom1 (Apr 5, 2008)

Mike & Big,

Thank you for the informative comments! I'm new to milling so I'm just taking it slow and trying to do my home work. I have worked a lot with wood just have never milled it. A friend of mine has a Logosol M7 and I have helped him with that before getting my own CSM. An opportunity came along to get the circular mill so I took it. It was last used 5 years ago. Everything works on it but some of the wood needs to be replaced. It will probable take me some time getting it up and running but I'm in no hurry. Big, I think it may be a Frick mill. I'm not sure though. It has no identifying marks but closely resembles one. The previous owner didn't even know what brand it was and he said he milled about 2 Mil b/f with it. Here are a few more photo's











Thanks for the links, I'll check them out.

Regards,

Tom


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## brisawyer (Apr 5, 2008)

google search sawmill exchange or arsaw. If you need help with setup or problems e mail me at [email protected] I saw a lot on a meadows circular mill


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## carvinmark (Apr 6, 2008)

I was at a guys house in northern Michigan yesterday that has a mill without any power supply for sale with a 56" blade, carbide inserts and freshly sharpened. He said $1,000.00 will buy it. It was powered by a diesel engine that blew up on him about a year ago. Mill looks to be home made, all metal. I believe he said it has 18' capacity. Any body interested, PM me and I'll pass along his contact info.


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## TNMIKE (Apr 6, 2008)

*This might work for you*

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Old-47-Sawmil...ryZ61788QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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## Boleclimber (Apr 6, 2008)

Tom1
When buying your circular saw blade inspect it closely. Consider the thickness of the steel, look at the locks and gullets. A blade can appear to be in very good shape but actually be worn out.

Upon purchasing a blade you have to have it "hammered" for your mill. They will need to know if you are running a right handed or left handed mill and the RPM's you will be turning the blade.

When setting you mill up you will need to put lead in your saw. To learn more about this look at Simonds website, they have a small informational book that will give you some basics on circular saws.

Simonds is a major manufacturer of cutting products in the united states. They make the teeth that you will be using in your circular saw, so looking them up will save you time.

There is a company in Arkansas who sells simonds products. If you google simonds saw teeth they should come up. If not pm me I should have there contact information some where.


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## brisawyer (Apr 6, 2008)

I would not go thinner than a 7 gauge saw especially in the 50+ inch size it is hard to get those big thin saws to stand up and stay there


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## clawmute (Apr 7, 2008)

Before you start cutting with your mill put up a chip screen between the sawyers station and the saw from above head height and down 3-4 ft. Learned that the hard way. A chunk or large splinter can fly off the saw and cause serious damage. After I got zapped in the head by the first hit I shut the mill down and built a screen guard of wire mesh.

Lead was mentioned and should be about 1/32". This keeps the saw from dragging on the face of the wood on the return gig. Make sure the board splitter does not drag on the face of wood on the carriage.


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## Tom1 (Apr 7, 2008)

WOW! Thanks for the wealth of great information. You have given me a lot to think about and explore. 

Much appreciated,

Tom


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