# Consolidated Dutchwest wood/coal stove



## William Balaska (Jan 2, 2009)

Hi I am in the process of buying a Dutchwest FA288 2184 wood/coal stove. It was the largest stove they made in 1990-1993. It was bareley used by the original owner. It is a catylyst model. Do these require a coal kit to burn coal and what type of coal do ou burn in them. The price is right at $400 cash it just needs some fresh paint otherwise all ther. Any one using this stove or similar.


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## grampakev (Jan 3, 2009)

cant help with the coal? but i've had my dutchwest xl for 3 years great stove it is my only sorce for heat, i have 2000 sq ft and even in the coldest days it keeps the house warm, and long burn times. good luck


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## ngzcaz (Jan 3, 2009)

I have one, yes you need the side panels and metal insert instead of the cat converter. I have all of it. I've never burned coal in it but I still have the original literature which may delve a little more in detail.. Very heavy unit, the inside side panels must weigh 30 lbs a piece. These act as firebrick protecting the inside of the unit.

Good price, I paid $ 1300 for it brand new. Mine also has the glass doors which are removable and can be replaced with factory metal inserts for even more heat transfer. I also have those and the original cat converter which they tell me should have been replaced years ago but no one told that to the converter. Still puts out 700 or more degrees when you put the damper down.

:greenchainsaw:


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## William Balaska (Jan 4, 2009)

Just picked her up yesterday got her for $350 She's like new just needs good cleaning otherwise in almost new condition. If anyone wants to sell their coal kit let me know. The converter looks fine, what a beast it dosen't look like 634lbs until U move it!


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## ngzcaz (Jan 4, 2009)

One important item : these stoves, while terrific while operating properly, can leak thru the gasket material on the inside of the stove. I'm not talking the doors, I'm speaking of the two chambers where the heat comes out the top front of the stove, they have a mesh covering over them. Make sure nothing leaks. Take some newspaper and start it then deliberately make it go out so that it smokes. If smoke starts coming out anywhere other than up the chimney you have a problem. The only remedy for where its probably leaking is to remove the top..remember its cast iron and will break.

I'm assuming you have the blower with the unit, it makes the stove SOOOO much better to distribute the heat. Takes very little electricity which is a nice feature. The thermostat just magnetically attaches to the back. 

If you dont have the options ( blower, cast door inserts, metal strainer, cat converter ) you can spend hundreds to get them. For now I'd be more concerned with making sure its leak proof and go from there. Since you want to burn coal thats a no brainer. Carbon monoxide is a silent killer. I would try nothing smaller than pea coal to start, you can always go up or down from there. Good luck..

*** if you have access to good hardwood, you can get burn times of 8 hrs if the weather outside isn't too cold and the cat converter is new.

:greenchainsaw:


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## nametrux (Jan 4, 2009)

*Pics.*

Bill: Now that you have a new project You must post Pics. and keep us updated on your progress. Sounds like that is a real find. Should be great if you can find a coal kit.


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## William Balaska (Jan 4, 2009)

I removed the top place to replace the gaskets and inspect the converter. I am going to replace all gaskets to be on the safe side. I don't have the blower I'm going to call stove's and stuff tomorrow to see if it can still be purchased. I'll try and post some pics soon.


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## ngzcaz (Jan 4, 2009)

Glad to hear you're doing it the right way. C.M.'s only warning sign ( if you're lucky enough to recognize it ) is a splitting headache and all in the house will probably have it. It saved my family's life 35 years ago when I woke up with a headache ( I never get headaches ) and my wife woke up as well with one. As soon as she said it, I immediately knew what happened since it was a cool damp night. Thats why I never burned coal in it. To be fair, our first home wasnt set up correctly for the coal stove having way too long a stovepipe at almost a right angle with no lift.

C.M. alarms are really inexpensive compared to years ago and an investment that no one should be without.

Too bad I didnt know you were looking for one, would have sold you mine for $ 400 and you wouldnt have to buy anything. I put in an OWB that takes care of everything so I no longer need it. And brace yourself for the price of the blower. Used ones have gone for $ 65 on E bay. Can only assume new ones are higher..

:greenchainsaw:


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## William Balaska (Jan 4, 2009)

Can you tell me the right sized gasket to use 3/8, 1/2 or 5/8 the book dosen't specify. It's easier to buy in length instead of a kit. I know the blowers are expensize. Well al in all I will most likely burn wood instead of coal but I wouldn't mind having the grates just in case. I bought carbon monoxide detectors it's cheap insurance. Well I'm still happy with my purchase at $350, let me know if your going to ebay your stove I'll buy the grates and blower if you want to sell them. Thanks


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## ngzcaz (Jan 5, 2009)

I checked the original book and I cant find it either. If they allow, buy a couple of inches of each and see which one works best for you. Or better yet, take a door off ( takes a couple of seconds ) and take it with you.

Right now the stoves sitting downstairs in the corner decorated. I made a raised hearth about a foot high in brick and solid concrete underneath so the hearth is a permanent fixture. I'll let you know if I want to sell anything. The blower is one of the first things to get to dramatically increase the heating area. Its because all of the high heat is chambered in between 2 walls of cast iron and using the blower gets it out in the room. The second chamber actually retards the heat distribution w/out the fan assist so dont get discouraged if its not putting out what you think it should. It probably is but you aren't getting the full benefit. Unfortunately a small fan in back of the unit wont do much good unless you make a shroud to force it thru the chamber.

Good luck..


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## cntn (Feb 14, 2013)

ngzcaz said:


> One important item : these stoves, while terrific while operating properly, can leak thru the gasket material on the inside of the stove. I'm not talking the doors, I'm speaking of the two chambers where the heat comes out the top front of the stove, they have a mesh covering over them. Make sure nothing leaks. Take some newspaper and start it then deliberately make it go out so that it smokes. If smoke starts coming out anywhere other than up the chimney you have a problem. The only remedy for where its probably leaking is to remove the top..remember its cast iron and will break.
> 
> I'm assuming you have the blower with the unit, it makes the stove SOOOO much better to distribute the heat. Takes very little electricity which is a nice feature. The thermostat just magnetically attaches to the back.
> 
> ...



I know this thread is 4 years old and maybe this is not proper forum etiquette to bring up such an old topic, but the description of stove leakage you describe here is precisely what we are experiencing.

Our Consolidated Dutchwest wood stove (model FH288) was installed in 1991 (approximately 5 years before we purchased the home). We used the stove a season or two in the late 90s and then stopped using it until about 2006. Since then we have used it as the primary heat source for our home during the cold winter months. We have had no problems with it until this season (2012-13). It has been smoky. I am used to the usual wood smell of the burning wood. This a noticeable increase. Two weeks ago the smoke was unbearable. We couldn't see any leaks and attributed it to green wood. We let the fire go out due to a period of warm weather (Tennessee winters).

Yesterday, we lit a fire with good seasoned wood and the intense smoke was back. This time we found a leak from the top, front of the stove. We were concerned that it could be failure of the catalytic combustor, but I feel that even if the combustor wasn't operating properly the smoke would still be sucked up the chimney. The chimney is not plugged. The leak you describe in this post makes me think it is the gaskets in the top of the stove.

You say the only remedy for where its leaking is to remove the top... so dumb question time... do you mean remove the top and replace the gaskets? Or is there something else that needs to be done?

Any information you can share would be greatly appreciated. (And again I apologize if this thread was too old to resurrect.)


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## ngzcaz (Feb 14, 2013)

cntn said:


> I know this thread is 4 years old and maybe this is not proper forum etiquette to bring up such an old topic, but the description of stove leakage you describe here is precisely what we are experiencing.
> 
> Our Consolidated Dutchwest wood stove (model FH288) was installed in 1991 (approximately 5 years before we purchased the home). We used the stove a season or two in the late 90s and then stopped using it until about 2006. Since then we have used it as the primary heat source for our home during the cold winter months. We have had no problems with it until this season (2012-13). It has been smoky. I am used to the usual wood smell of the burning wood. This a noticeable increase. Two weeks ago the smoke was unbearable. We couldn't see any leaks and attributed it to green wood. We let the fire go out due to a period of warm weather (Tennessee winters).
> 
> ...


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## nathon918 (Feb 14, 2013)

cntn said:


> I know this thread is 4 years old and maybe this is not proper forum etiquette to bring up such an old topic, but the description of stove leakage you describe here is precisely what we are experiencing.
> 
> Our Consolidated Dutchwest wood stove (model FH288) was installed in 1991 (approximately 5 years before we purchased the home). We used the stove a season or two in the late 90s and then stopped using it until about 2006. Since then we have used it as the primary heat source for our home during the cold winter months. We have had no problems with it until this season (2012-13). It has been smoky. I am used to the usual wood smell of the burning wood. This a noticeable increase. Two weeks ago the smoke was unbearable. We couldn't see any leaks and attributed it to green wood. We let the fire go out due to a period of warm weather (Tennessee winters).
> 
> ...




have you ever taken the top plate off of the stove? i have the small dutchwest takes a 20 inch log, about the same age as yours, and i take the top plate off every time i clean the chiminey, if im burning not so dry wood it will become pretty filled with creo. and i clean the chiminey every month during burning season. but if you havent taken the cover off it might be plugged up not letting the smoke up the chiminey... its easy to do just 4 bolts and it comes right off, just a rope seal, no cement.


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## ngzcaz (Feb 14, 2013)

nathon918 said:


> have you ever taken the top plate off of the stove? i have the small dutchwest takes a 20 inch log, about the same age as yours, and i take the top plate off every time i clean the chiminey, if im burning not so dry wood it will become pretty filled with creo. and i clean the chiminey every month during burning season. but if you havent taken the cover off it might be plugged up not letting the smoke up the chiminey... its easy to do just 4 bolts and it comes right off, just a rope seal, no cement.




I guess we should find out what model they have since the innards, cat and design might be a bit different. Mine for example has the heavy stainless steel plate with a temp probe in the top middle of the stove. It has no bolts just the weight of in presses the rope gasket into a well in the stove, again not the greatest idea. If they by pass the cat it shouldn't make any difference if its blocked. It is however a good idea to check it yearly and clean out residue.


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## nathon918 (Feb 14, 2013)

ngzcaz said:


> I guess we should find out what model they have since the innards, cat and design might be a bit different. Mine for example has the heavy stainless steel plate with a temp probe in the top middle of the stove. It has no bolts just the weight of in presses the rope gasket into a well in the stove, again not the greatest idea. If they by pass the cat it shouldn't make any difference if its blocked. It is however a good idea to check it yearly and clean out residue.



i dont remember when vermont castings took over , but is yours a pre vermont castings model, with the brass air controls?, you say yours was new in 87, his is a 91 which is a VC model, mine is a 90 or 91 model 2460 , all of the ones ive seen around this year use the 4 bolt design...,
also i have a hard time believeing that such a large piece of your stove would be made from stainless...


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## cntn (Feb 14, 2013)

Thank you for your quick responses!

The stove is FA288 Model No. 2184. I have attached a photo of the stove. The smoke was coming from the opening around the gold rod at the top above the door. Smoke was visible coming from that area when the door and damper were closed. We did the flashlight test to find a leak and that's the only trouble spot we found.

We have never removed the top of the stove, but were planning on doing that to inspect the cat. Build up in that area may be the problem.

Thank you so much for the insights. I believe it will help me get to the bottom of it. If you have anything to add, please do!


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## ngzcaz (Feb 14, 2013)

nathon918 said:


> i dont remember when vermont castings took over , but is yours a pre vermont castings model, with the brass air controls?, you say yours was new in 87, his is a 91 which is a VC model, mine is a 90 or 91 model 2460 , all of the ones ive seen around this year use the 4 bolt design...,
> also i have a hard time believeing that such a large piece of your stove would be made from stainless...



Probably didn't make it clear that the stainless piece is about a 5 inch square and almost an inch thick. There are no bolts holding it in. It just has a rope gasket around it. You put a small screwdriver on the edge and lift it until you can grab it with your fingers. The cat sits directly underneath and looks like an air cleaner on a car or small tractor. The probe for the cat just drops in the center of the square and resembles a valve from a car with heat indicated on the top of the " valve ". It goes up to around 1400 degrees Fahrenheit I believe. I had it up to 1200 a week or so ago. Its the original cat from 1987. The rest of the stove iscast iron. The stove is actually a Federal Airtight but the catalog I got with it says Consolidated Dutchwest. It is a Model FA288 rated at 85,000 BTU's, weighs 612 lbs and supposed to have a burn time of 15 hours, ( more like 8 hours of useable heat ) It has a brass spin draft control on the bottom door and a brass spin dial on the left side of the stove that work in tandem but are set separately. There also are three heavy brass/black handles for the bottom door and the twin glass doors that swing open. Sorry for the confusion..


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## ngzcaz (Feb 14, 2013)

cntn said:


> Thank you for your quick responses!
> 
> The stove is FA288 Model No. 2184. I have attached a photo of the stove. The smoke was coming from the opening around the gold rod at the top above the door. Smoke was visible coming from that area when the door and damper were closed. We did the flashlight test to find a leak and that's the only trouble spot we found.
> 
> ...





Yours has a long slot where the hot air comes out. Mine has two 2 by 3 inch or so open slots on the left and right side of the stove which accomplish the same thing. Unfortunately if the smoke is coming from that slotted area it appears that the stove cement has been damaged and will need to be addressed. Do you have a blower on the stove ? While I doubt if the cat has anything to do with the leak you shouldn't have to remove the top of the stove to access the cat. From your pic I can see the plate ( mine is in the same location ) and the cat is underneath that plate. If your plate has no bolts its being held in place by its weight alone. Just get a screw driver or something similar and pry it up and remove it. If it has bolts they would be removed. Because they ( the bolts ) apparently would be exposed to the smoke it might be a chore to remove them. My unit's plate is flush with the top but yours seems to be elevated a bit so they must have made a change of some sort.

I wish I had a quick fix for you but.......... please be careful if you continue to use it. If its as bad as you state it would not be a good idea to continue to use it. It probably would be manageable without closing the damper but that's where all the heat comes from the smoke activating the cat for a more complete burn. As I said these stoves work extremely well when everything is correct. Unfortunately it was not thought out as well as it should have been as far as reliability goes, especially for the price they were getting for them. Once rebuilt with modern materials it should last a lifetime minus the cat. I have seen some of these units with a large crack in the cast iron. It almost always happens early in the stoves life by overfiring it before the cast iron is cured. A minimum of five fires was recommended before full use.


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## milkman (Feb 14, 2013)

cntn said:


> Thank you for your quick responses!
> 
> The stove is FA288 Model No. 2184. I have attached a photo of the stove. The smoke was coming from the opening around the gold rod at the top above the door. Smoke was visible coming from that area when the door and damper were closed. We did the flashlight test to find a leak and that's the only trouble spot we found.
> 
> ...



I have the CDW extra large, 2462 and it looks like your stove except mine has the single front door. I've had it for over 15 yrs. and last fall, I took the top off and replaced all the rope and re-cemented the joints. The top is easy to lift off, just two bolts on each side, under that is the refactory that looks like styrofoam, that just lifts out also and under that is the catalyst, I just replaced my original last year, but it didn't need it. Before I sealed it up, it was getting hard to control the burn, but now it is like I remember when new. I really like the stove once I learned how to run it and it will last as long as I need one. 


http://www.arboristsite.com/attachm...ning-equipment/268872d1356096739-dscf3169-jpg


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## nathon918 (Feb 14, 2013)

milkman said:


> I have the CDW extra large, 2462 and it looks like your stove except mine has the single front door. I've had it for over 15 yrs. and last fall, I took the top off and replaced all the rope and re-cemented the joints. The top is easy to lift off, just two bolts on each side, under that is the refactory that looks like styrofoam, that just lifts out also and under that is the catalyst, I just replaced my original last year, but it didn't need it. Before I sealed it up, it was getting hard to control the burn, but now it is like I remember when new. I really like the stove once I learned how to run it and it will last as long as I need one.
> 
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/attachm...ning-equipment/268872d1356096739-dscf3169-jpg



mine is the same as yours just the small version


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## mbergeon (Feb 14, 2013)

nathon918 said:


> mine is the same as yours just the small version



I have the same as well, mine does not have a removable stainless plate, but has the same raised area in the casting.

You have to pull the four bolts to lift the top off.


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## ngzcaz (Feb 14, 2013)

milkman said:


> I have the CDW extra large, 2462 and it looks like your stove except mine has the single front door. I've had it for over 15 yrs. and last fall, I took the top off and replaced all the rope and re-cemented the joints. The top is easy to lift off, just two bolts on each side, under that is the refactory that looks like styrofoam, that just lifts out also and under that is the catalyst, I just replaced my original last year, but it didn't need it. Before I sealed it up, it was getting hard to control the burn, but now it is like I remember when new. I really like the stove once I learned how to run it and it will last as long as I need one.
> 
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/attachm...ning-equipment/268872d1356096739-dscf3169-jpg




I'm curious, did you have to take the entire top off the stove to access the cat ? If so they must have changed the design since they made mine. If its not too much trouble a couple of pics would be interesting when its not in operation. If you resealed the stove what kind of caulk/stove cement did you use ? I'm guessing the rope was for the doors and the cement for the top. I'm surprised the top came off easily, some have reported a real problem doing so. 
Glad to hear its working well for you. These were top of the line back in the day with reported efficiency in the 70 to 80 percent range. I'm not sure they are any better today ( but few still use the cat anymore. Too costly I guess ) IMO they are well worth resealing for another 30 plus years of service... :msp_thumbup:


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## ngzcaz (Feb 14, 2013)

mbergeon said:


> I have the same as well, mine does not have a removable stainless plate, but has the same raised area in the casting.
> 
> You have to pull the four bolts to lift the top off.





Thanks, you posted while I was still writing.. :msp_biggrin:


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## milkman (Feb 15, 2013)

Here's part of an IPL for your stove, if you look under the edge of part #39, you'll find two bolts under each edge of the top, two above the side door and two more on the opposite side, remove these and the entire top lifts off, and there is rope that seals the top to the stove and at the base of the stove pipe adapter, there are some seams that have to be sealed. I just used stove cement from a local hardware store. I put the cement and the rope in and put the top back on and let it set for several days till I needed a fire. I started with low heat for a few hours and then just let her rip. Another thing, I just snugged the bolts as the rope under the top was new, I was afraid to crank down the bolts as I might crack the cast iron top, might have to snug them again after it sets in for a while. I believe I read that you don't have a blower, they are a real plus and close to $200 new, might try surpluscenter.com , they have several and might be able to adapt one of them.

The picture won't load here, but just Google "consolidated dutchwest Model No. 2184" and you'll find a PDF that is a Manual and Illustrated Parts List that might be helpful.


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## ngzcaz (Feb 15, 2013)

milkman said:


> Here's part of an IPL for your stove, if you look under the edge of part #39, you'll find two bolts under each edge of the top, two above the side door and two more on the opposite side, remove these and the entire top lifts off, and there is rope that seals the top to the stove and at the base of the stove pipe adapter, there are some seams that have to be sealed. I just used stove cement from a local hardware store. I put the cement and the rope in and put the top back on and let it set for several days till I needed a fire. I started with low heat for a few hours and then just let her rip. Another thing, I just snugged the bolts as the rope under the top was new, I was afraid to crank down the bolts as I might crack the cast iron top, might have to snug them again after it sets in for a while. I believe I read that you don't have a blower, they are a real plus and close to $200 new, might try surpluscenter.com , they have several and might be able to adapt one of them.
> 
> The picture won't load here, but just Google "consolidated dutchwest Model No. 2184" and you'll find a PDF that is a Manual and Illustrated Parts List that might be helpful.





Not sure who you are addressing.. if its me I was referring to the bolts that are apparently on models other than mine that access the cat. It seems there may be 4 bolts holding the 5 square inch or so metal over the top of the cat. There are none on mine. You just lift the 5 in sq metal piece off and the cat in below it. No need to remove the entire top. The cat also lifts right out with only a steel shroud that holds it from going anywhere. Since your stove is already cured the cast iron is cured and not quite as temperamental but its always better to err on the side of caution rather than break something. The blowers are indeed a real plus in heat output. Mine is running fine since 1987 and I read further back that its simple to breakdown and lube the bearings if need be. I still have the original manuals and literature from the Consolidated Dutchwest catalog. Lots of info thats still good today... :msp_biggrin:


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## nathon918 (Feb 15, 2013)

ngzcaz said:


> Not sure who you are addressing.. if its me I was referring to the bolts that are apparently on models other than mine that access the cat. It seems there may be 4 bolts holding the 5 square inch or so metal over the top of the cat. There are none on mine. You just lift the 5 in sq metal piece off and the cat in below it. No need to remove the entire top. The cat also lifts right out with only a steel shroud that holds it from going anywhere. Since your stove is already cured the cast iron is cured and not quite as temperamental but its always better to err on the side of caution rather than break something. The blowers are indeed a real plus in heat output. Mine is running fine since 1987 and I read further back that its simple to breakdown and lube the bearings if need be. I still have the original manuals and literature from the Consolidated Dutchwest catalog. Lots of info thats still good today... :msp_biggrin:



on the "newer" stoves after vermont castings took over , they changed the stoves, like eliminating the air control on the ash pan door, and putting the air control on both sides of the front door controlled with a single lever, the tops on these stoves are a single piece of cast iron, held down with 4 bolts, (2 on each side) using a rope seal around the top of secondary burn chamber.
so not all of the dutch west stoves are the same, 
also i dont know if this is true or not, but i had heard that in the 80's some of the dutch west stoves were made in china? if true i would think they would be different from the US made ones?, i just know mine is made in USA :cool2:


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## ngzcaz (Feb 15, 2013)

nathon918 said:


> on the "newer" stoves after vermont castings took over , they changed the stoves, like eliminating the air control on the ash pan door, and putting the air control on both sides of the front door controlled with a single lever, the tops on these stoves are a single piece of cast iron, held down with 4 bolts, (2 on each side) using a rope seal around the top of secondary burn chamber.
> so not all of the dutch west stoves are the same,
> also i dont know if this is true or not, but i had heard that in the 80's some of the dutch west stoves were made in china? if true i would think they would be different from the US made ones?, i just know mine is made in USA :cool2:




Not sure about China, the only info I have references Plymouth, Mass. And mine is actually a Federal Airtight, catalog is from C.D. The way they explained the dual controls was that a percentage of the air was to come from the side control and some from the bottom control. The bottom control was probably there since it was a dual purpose stove able to burn coal as well as wood. I don't think a side air flow would be the safe way to do a coal fire. Now that I think about it were the " newer " stoves advertised as being dual purpose ? I'd be surprised if they were with 2 side controls. Normally anything advertised as dual purpose generally didn't do quite as well as a single purpose one although mine does a fine job with wood. As I stated earlier I never tried coal. :msp_biggrin:


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## nathon918 (Feb 15, 2013)

ngzcaz said:


> Not sure about China, the only info I have references Plymouth, Mass. And mine is actually a Federal Airtight, catalog is from C.D. The way they explained the dual controls was that a percentage of the air was to come from the side control and some from the bottom control. The bottom control was probably there since it was a dual purpose stove able to burn coal as well as wood. I don't think a side air flow would be the safe way to do a coal fire. Now that I think about it were the " newer " stoves advertised as being dual purpose ? I'd be surprised if they were with 2 side controls. Normally anything advertised as dual purpose generally didn't do quite as well as a single purpose one although mine does a fine job with wood. As I stated earlier I never tried coal. :msp_biggrin:



manufacture info doesnt always tell you everything, i just got rid of a 80's scandia stove that someone gave me, manufacture tag on the back of the stove says "Franklin cast products Warwick Rhode island" then cast into the back of the stove in huge letters it says MADE IN TAIWAN:msp_thumbdn:
im just happy both my Dutch West and my All Nighter are Made In USA 
im not sure if the newer Dutch west stoves are dual fuel? i only burn wood...


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## ngzcaz (Feb 15, 2013)

nathon918 said:


> manufacture info doesnt always tell you everything, i just got rid of a 80's scandia stove that someone gave me, manufacture tag on the back of the stove says "Franklin cast products Warwick Rhode island" then cast into the back of the stove in huge letters it says MADE IN TAIWAN:msp_thumbdn:
> im just happy both my Dutch West and my All Nighter are Made In USA
> im not sure if the newer Dutch west stoves are dual fuel? i only burn wood...




Before I bought the Federal Airtight I had a Scandia which was made in Taiwan as well. It didn't have a blower and neither did it work very well. Couldn't even heat the downstairs of my small home. It was a non cat unit.

One of the best stoves I had was a local copy of a Fisher ( I think ) Big double doors, large firebox lined with firebrick and all welded 3/8 inch boiler plate. A monster for sure. It burned all night due to the mass, only downside and it was the reason I sold it was it didn't have a grate or ashpan. You had to shovel the fire to the side, empty the hot ash ( which always rose of course ) and then level the hot coals and add more wood. Shame, it really had some serious heat output..


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## nathon918 (Feb 15, 2013)

ngzcaz said:


> Before I bought the Federal Airtight I had a Scandia which was made in Taiwan as well. It didn't have a blower and neither did it work very well. Couldn't even heat the downstairs of my small home. It was a non cat unit.
> 
> One of the best stoves I had was a local copy of a Fisher ( I think ) Big double doors, large firebox lined with firebrick and all welded 3/8 inch boiler plate. A monster for sure. It burned all night due to the mass, only downside and it was the reason I sold it was it didn't have a grate or ashpan. You had to shovel the fire to the side, empty the hot ash ( which always rose of course ) and then level the hot coals and add more wood. Shame, it really had some serious heat output..



my All Nighter is basically the same as a fisher, also have to shovel out the ash, i have it in my living room, which is an addition thats 16 x 20 with vaulted celings, i almost never run it because it gets over 90 deg in there fast, i just have a fan in the door way blowing into the main part of the house which does a really good job of heating the room, only 1-2 deg difference from the main part of the house


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## AKoz (Jan 29, 2020)

I am resurrecting this thread because it is the only one I have found that speaks specifically about the FA288. I have already learned quite a bit frm this thread, for example about taking off the complete stove top to redo the gaskets.

I bought this stone new probably 1987 and have used it every winter since then. I tried coal for 2 years but was not real successful in keeping the fire going after shaking the coals and adding more coal. I don't recall the exact details. I concluded this may be due to the old adage that if something is designed to doing something two ways, for example burn word or coal, it will do neither very well. I have have been lucky in that the stove does burn wood well.

My current problem is air leaks make the air supply hard to control. Fortunately the result is that the fire burns too well and I can't get long burns going. It does not over fire. I tried to address this by putting new gaskets on the doors and the cook plate (catalytic combuster cover). The end door and cook plate gaskets were easy and successful on the first try. The ash removal door in front had or developed an outward bow in the middle but I was able to overcome that by using a larger size gasket. I went from 3/8" to 1/2". 

The last door issue is the that the front right door sticks out a little on its lower left corner. This causes a gap along the bottom of the right door and along the left vertical side of the door. The right door fits over the left door and holds the left door shut. The result is that the left is held securely shut at the top but not as much at the bottom. I cannot decide if the door became warped somehow. We are only talking about perhaps 1/16" but that is a big deal when it come to air tightness. I addressed other gasket issues by filling in part of the gasket channel with stove cement before putting in the new gasket but this would be real hard to do with this problem.

Q: Does this sound familiar anyone? Does anyone else think they have had warping of their front doors? If I explained this well are there any other methods to correct door alignment?


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