# Holley 80555C 650 CFM 4175 Spread Bore Carburetor??



## NYH1

Anyone have any experiance with these carbs? How well do they work on mildly built street/daily driver 350/383 small blocks? 

Holley's web site.


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## Patrick62

*An opinion*

The only experience I have had with Holley carbs isn't good. It is possible that this one might work really well for you.

If it was me, I would stick with the Q-jet. I understand them, and they have treated me better. To each his own as the story goes....


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## chowdozer

Patrick62 said:


> The only experience I have had with Holley carbs isn't good. It is possible that this one might work really well for you.
> 
> If it was me, I would stick with the Q-jet. I understand them, and they have treated me better. To each his own as the story goes....



Ditto for me. I have found Holley's to get worse fuel mileage and had fits with power valves for awhile. Consequently, I really got into the QJ's for a time and had 75 or so. The QJ has much more adjustability than any carb ever made. Or that's my claim anyway.

edit: a close second for a QJ would be an Edelbrock 1406. They do ok.


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## hanniedog

Why dont you run 3 dueces might be hard to get tuned just right, but it sure looks cool.


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## clearance

chowdozer said:


> Ditto for me. I have found Holley's to get worse fuel mileage and had fits with power valves for awhile. Consequently, I really got into the QJ's for a time and had 75 or so. The QJ has much more adjustability than any carb ever made. Or that's my claim anyway.
> 
> edit: a close second for a QJ would be an Edelbrock 1406. They do ok.



Wow, I have to agree, I love the Q-jet.


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## NYH1

The Q-jet that came on the car was butchered real bad. It only worked as a two barrel. The secondaries didn't work. All the linkage was gone. 

I've never messed around with Q-jets anyway's. I'm not knocking them at all. I've just alway's used Holley (and 1 Edelbrock) carbs. 

I'm not going to mess around with the Q-jet, I'm going to get another carb. I'm looking for a good street/daily driver carb. I'm willing to give up a little max power so the car is more drivable.


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## NYH1

hanniedog said:


> Why dont you run 3 dueces might be hard to get tuned just right, but it sure looks cool.


That sure would look sweet. I'm looking for derivability though, I've heard horror stories about multi carb set ups!


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## NYH1

I'm done with Holley products (which also includes NOS, Weiand, Earl's, Hooker and Flowtech). I've been trying to get though to their tech suppport line since last Thursday for product information. I called twice a day Thurs, Fri and yesterday. I was on hold hold 20 to 30 minutes each time, before I hung up. 

I called Holley's corporate office yesterday. A lady answered the phone, I told her I needed product information, she told me she was going to transfer me to their tech department. I told her I've been on hold waiting for them twice a day for 20 to 30 minutes each time since last Thursday. 

I asked if there was someone else I could talk to, I just had a quick question. She got rude and said if I need tech advise I'd have to be transferred and wait. I said I've done that for three days already. I told her that when I call Edelbrock they answer their phone within a few minutes and that maybe I should go with Edelbrock's products instead. She said that sounds good and hung up on me. 

Holley can go $h!t in their hat. I won't buy anything from a company that doesn't support their customers! I was going to buy a new carb and new fuel pump. Edelbrock or someone else with get my money now.


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## WVwoodsman

That sucks about your lack of customer service, that can make or break a company. I hope you have better luck with edelbrock. Not to hijack your thread, but I use edelbrock carb and intake on my 67 bird, but I also use hooker headers, but after reading about your bad experience, neither will I use their products again.


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## Paul61

Sad to hear of all the people with Holley troubles.
Raced them for years, the most tuneable carbs. ever designed.....IF you understand them. 
HP productions published an excellent book on how to tune / modify Holley's, essential reading if you want to tune them.
The 650 spreadbore should be an excellent street carb for your small block, better driveability than a double pumper.
Is it a vacuum or mechanical secondary?
 Paul


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## barneyrb

I've always had good luck out of Holley. Once I learned how to tune them (acc pump, squirter, power valve, jets, and pump cam). If I was looking at a new carb for a stout small block I'd have to consider a Demon, heard a lot of good things bout them. http://www.barrygrant.com/


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## Paul61

barneyrb said:


> I've always had good luck out of Holley. Once I learned how to tune them (acc pump, squirter, power valve, jets, and pump cam). If I was looking at a new carb for a stout small block I'd have to consider a Demon, heard a lot of good things bout them. http://www.barrygrant.com/




Basically his carbs are Holleys with more tuning features.
If I were to race again, I'd buy a used Holley and do the mods myself, for way less cash.

Paul


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## Den69RS96

I just read your other post. I would go with 670 holley street avenger for the 383 for just driving around or 750 holley if you want max hp. If your running an auto with low gears 3.73 or numerically lower stick with a vaccum secondary carb. If you have a 4spd and 3.73 or higher, go with a double pumper. 

The Performer RPM is an awesome manifold capable of supporting an rpm range to 6500rpm. I have a Performer RPM on my 350 .060 over in my 69 camaro. I'm running a decent cam .480I/.494E lift and 228I/234E duration at .050 and Trickflow aluminum heads. I currently have a 600cfm edelbrock carb and its jetting is maxed out. My car runs fine, but its a little too small for my application. I'm going with either a Holley 650 or 750 Hp series carb. I don't need the choke or air horn as I want max horsepower.


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## NYH1

Paul61 said:


> Sad to hear of all the people with Holley troubles.
> Raced them for years, the most tuneable carbs. ever designed.....IF you understand them.
> HP productions published an excellent book on how to tune / modify Holley's, essential reading if you want to tune them.
> The 650 spreadbore should be an excellent street carb for your small block, better driveability than a double pumper.
> Is it a vacuum or mechanical secondary?
> Paul


Yes it has vacuum secondary's. 

I think that really would be one of the best carburetors for my set up. I just can't buy something for a company that won't even try to help me before I buy their products. If they won't help before I buy their products, what will they do after I buy their products and have trouble. I just can't do it.

Which really sucks because I have more experience with Holley carburetors then the other brands


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## NYH1

Den69RS96 said:


> I just read your other post. I would go with 670 holley street avenger for the 383 for just driving around or 750 holley if you want max hp. If your running an auto with low gears 3.73 or numerically lower stick with a vaccum secondary carb. If you have a 4spd and 3.73 or higher, go with a double pumper.
> 
> The Performer RPM is an awesome manifold capable of supporting an rpm range to 6500rpm. I have a Performer RPM on my 350 .060 over in my 69 camaro. I'm running a decent cam .480I/.494E lift and 228I/234E duration at .050 and Trickflow aluminum heads. I currently have a 600cfm edelbrock carb and its jetting is maxed out. My car runs fine, but its a little too small for my application. I'm going with either a Holley 650 or 750 Hp series carb. I don't need the choke or air horn as I want max horsepower.



I'm go to stick with a 350. I'll save a little money, plus the added torque of a 383 will probably hurt me more then it helps me. I'm going to use the stock suspension and 235/60-14 tires. 


This is what I'm going to do-

I'm going to have the cylinders bored and torque plate honed, the mains line honed and the decks trued up. I'll have the complete rotating assembly balanced. 

I'm looking at a rebuild kit from Summit ($440). It comes with forged pistons (pressed pins), moly rings, bearings, gaskets, HV oil pump. Pretty much everything to assemble the engine. Scat cast crank ($190) and 4340 "I" beam rods ($212). I might as well buy these, by the time I have mine turned/resized, buy new rod bolts and have them put in I'll have just about the same money into my old parts. 

World Products S/R Torquer heads, 2.02"/1.60" valves, 67cc chambers which will give me right around 9.4:1 compression.

Comp Cams Xtreme Energy hydraulic flat tappet CSXE268H-10 cam. 224/230 dur @.050", 268/280 adver. .477"/.480" valve lift with a 110° lobe sep ang. 1600-5800 RPM range.

Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. Edelbrock Thunder Series 650 AVS carb. 

I just put Hedman 1 5/8" full length headers and Flowmaster 2 1/2" full length exhaust system on it. 

I'm going to use a TH350 with about a 2000 RPM stall converter. I'm going to use 3.42 gears. 

I'd like to get 325 to 350 horsepower with good street torque out of it.


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## Cerran

Edelbrock makes good improved reproductions of Carters (performer series) which offer decent performance and good adjustability. I've had a couple Edelbrocks and they were rock solid carbs that required very little adjustment after the initial tuning.

I'm not a big fan of their ThermoQuad that's in my Dodge truck, but it's not a bad carb per se, just to much smog stuff on it for my taste.


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## SLVRTRC

i have Holleys on my Jeep and my Javelin... I had a Carter 625 and a performer intake on the Jav last year very good set up very reliable but over the winter I put a torker intake, 280 magnum cam, roller rockers, and springs on so i wanted more carb and im more familiar with the holleys so thats the route i took


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## Den69RS96

Have your considered gm vortec heads since your getting a new manifold anyway? S/R Torquers are sort of an updated version of old style cylinder head. Actually S/R stands for Stock Replacement. Vortecs would probably gave you more power and they have a much more modern fast burn combustion chamber design. They are $300 per head and the lift of your cam should work.


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## NYH1

Den69RS96 said:


> Have your considered gm vortec heads since your getting a new manifold anyway? S/R Torquers are sort of an updated version of old style cylinder head. Actually S/R stands for Stock Replacement. Vortecs would probably gave you more power and they have a much more modern fast burn combustion chamber design. They are $300 per head and the lift of your cam should work.



Yes, I've been looking at Summit's Vortec Heads. They come fully assembled, can handle up to .520" valve lift and have 67cc chambers which will actually lower my compression ratio a little. I want to keep it under 9.5:1. They cost $650 a pair. The S/R heads cost $980 assembled. I could buy the parts and put them together myself for a lot less. But it still wouldn't be anywhere near $650.

On my Comp Cams computer dyno, the heads are very close in flow and power. It almost doesn't matter which heads I use as far as performance go's, they're so close. I might as well get the best bang for my buck though...which is the Vortec's!


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## Den69RS96

Just a little FYI, Summit owns Trickflow so I bet they make the heads your looking at. I've read lots of reviews on comps xe268 cam. I think that cam likes around 9.5 to 1 compression. With decent heads and around 9.5 to 1 you should make closer to 400hp. I'd measure your pistons to see how far they are down in the hole. Most factory pistons arearound 0.025 down. If your having your engine decked, make sure you pick a head gasket that will give you a quench (distance between the top of the piston and the bottom of the cylinder head) of around .035-.045. This will definitely help control denotation and also allow you to run 9.5 with no issues at all.


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## NYH1

Den69RS96 said:


> Just a little FYI, Summit owns Trickflow so I bet they make the heads your looking at. I've read lots of reviews on comps xe268 cam. I think that cam likes around 9.5 to 1 compression. With decent heads and around 9.5 to 1 you should make closer to 400hp. I'd measure your pistons to see how far they are down in the hole. Most factory pistons arearound 0.025 down. If your having your engine decked, make sure you pick a head gasket that will give you a quench (distance between the top of the piston and the bottom of the cylinder head) of around .035-.045. This will definitely help control denotation and also allow you to run 9.5 with no issues at all.


I talked to a Summit tech rep and he said the heads are cast by a "major head manufacture", so you might be correct with your Trickflow assumption. I don't think that that's a bad thing, do you? Also, I'm pretty sure I'm going to do a 350. I'm also going to use one cam smaller, Comp Cams XE262 instead of their XE268.


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## Den69RS96

I have a set of trickflow heads, so if they make those heads your looking at thats a great deal. I bought a trickflow top end kit, so I'm running there lifters, cam, pushrods, rockers, and heads. Nice pieces if you ask me. I'd call comp cams before selecting your cam and tell them your set up your looking at running. It never hurts talking to everyone you can. They recommended a XE268 for my combo, but I ended going with a slightly bigger cam from Trickflow which is more like comps XE274. My goal was to get the most hp i could without digging into my bottom end. I'm pushing around 425hp in my 69 camaro, and my motor is awesome on the street and its so much fun. My cam likes a little more rear gear than 3.42's, but it works pretty good.


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## Paul61

Den69RS96 said:


> I have a set of trickflow heads, so if they make those heads your looking at thats a great deal. I bought a trickflow top end kit, so I'm running there lifters, cam, pushrods, rockers, and heads. Nice pieces if you ask me. I'd call comp cams before selecting your cam and tell them your set up your looking at running. It never hurts talking to everyone you can. They recommended a XE268 for my combo, but I ended going with a slightly bigger cam from Trickflow which is more like comps XE274. My goal was to get the most hp i could without digging into my bottom end. I'm pushing around 425hp in my 69 camaro, and my motor is awesome on the street and its so much fun. My cam likes a little more rear gear than 3.42's, but it works pretty good.



425HP (?).. with how many cubes and what compression?


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## streeter

NYH1 said:


> I talked to a Summit tech rep and he said the heads are cast by a "major head manufacture", so you might be correct with your Trickflow assumption. I don't think that that's a bad thing, do you? Also, I'm pretty sure I'm going to do a 350. I'm also going to use one cam smaller, Comp Cams XE262 instead of their XE268.



On a 350 with vortec heads with a 262 cam look at @350 hp with a nice torque curve. If you want more of a sleeper go with 383 internals and a 268 cam.

I am sorry about your Holley fiasco. I am used to them and are a pain to dial in! Most, if not all people over carb and over cam!!! and complain of stumble or bad gas mileage. With a street motor go to a carb no more then a 650cfm, that is all you will need at your level.

There are 2 main sizes of rottenchesters, @625 cfm and 725 cfm. 

To set it up correctly you will need a 4 gas.


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## Den69RS96

Paul61,

The kit I bought makes 425hp on a standard 350 with 9.5 to 1 compression. When TF tested the kit, they used a Vic jr manifold and a holley 750. 

My 350 is .060 over, I'm running just shy of 9.5 to 1. I have an edelbrock performer RPM maniold, Trickflow heads 195cc heads with 62cc chambers, cam is 228I/234E duration at .050 and lift is .484I/.490E at .050. Got an edlebrock 600 carb jetting maxed out that is costing a few hp. But I'm probably end up with quickfuel 650 or 750 carb as soon as I finish paying for Baer rear disc brake kit i'm gonna be installing. I know I'm losing a few hp with the smaller carb and dual plane intake, but I'm more than making up for it with the .060 overbore.


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## Paul61

Den69RS96 said:


> Paul61,
> 
> The kit I bought makes 425hp on a standard 350 with 9.5 to 1 compression. When TF tested the kit, they used a Vic jr manifold and a holley 750.
> 
> My 350 is .060 over, I'm running just shy of 9.5 to 1. I have an edelbrock performer RPM maniold, Trickflow heads 195cc heads with 62cc chambers, cam is 228I/234E duration at .050 and lift is .484I/.490E at .050. Got an edlebrock 600 carb jetting maxed out that is costing a few hp. But I'm probably end up with quickfuel 650 or 750 carb as soon as I finish paying for Baer rear disc brake kit i'm gonna be installing. I know I'm losing a few hp with the smaller carb and dual plane intake, but I'm more than making up for it with the .060 overbore.



Dens, thanks for the info. & good luck with the car.
Just curious where the HP #'s came from?
Did a "little" racing myself a while back, still do perf. engine & chassis work from my shop.
I'm gathering a part (or 2) here & there for the next drag project, not decided on the body style but, the powertrain & chassis decisions have been made.
...it's a sickness I can't seem to shake!

Paul


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## Den69RS96

Paul,

I hear you about the sickness. I bought my 69 camaro, just hoping to fix a few problems it had. Well 7 years later and more than double what i spent to buy the car, its closer to being finished. Just about everything has been replaced and upgraded. So much for my original plan. I also have a 96RS camaro that I bought new and still have. I want to build that into a race car if my son is interested in cars.

This is the kit I bought. Actually its 420hp not the 425hp, but I've read a few magazine articles where they used a few of TK engine kits and they made more hp than they advertised. Guess it really depends on the engine.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=trickflow 420hp&dds=1


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## Paul61

Yup, speed is a terrible addiction.....
one of my sons is bugging me to build another drag car, I'm not sure I'll do the smart thing and say.............. NO!
I did the same as you wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy back.
Bought a 68 Firebird OHC 6 cyl for a cool street car in the late 70's.
Well, it never made it to the street. I back-halved it and built a 12:1 396.
The car went 11:60's @ 118 @ 3200lbs.
This evolved to 10:60's @130 MPH with a "stock" LS7 & turbo 400, BTW that's 6:70's in the eighth with "only" 550HP @ the wheels.
Then, after a "couple" of years layoff to build a new tube chassis...it went 8:50's @ 155 @ 2800 lbs. with a 13:1 462 & a glide.
The final evolution was the addition of a 10-71 blower, injected on alky & a one piece Camaro front clip.........results - 7.68 @ 179 MPH.
I had sold the car and was going to buy it back, unfortunately the new owner hit both guard rails on a "Quick 8" qualifying attempt & destroyed the car. 
I do lay claim to the world's fastest 12 bolt chev doorslammer!
If I build a new car, I'll set a goal for 200MPH: 632 BBC turbo'd, Lenco 4/5 speed = 2000+ HP @ the wheels.
Sorry, no Holley(s) this time out! 

PAul


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## Den69RS96

Wow, 7's. Can't even image the rush that must be. I def want more hp, but I'll have to make do with my current combo. At least now I can keep up with some of the newer cars on the road. Before i swapped the heads, it was a dog. I had old iron 882 smog heads, small edelbrock cam, low rise aluminum intake 307 gears in ten bolt. I got tried of having to shift my 4spd at 4200rpm because the engine hit a wall and wouldn't pull hard after 4200. Its definitely more fun now. I'm thinking my car would run mid 13's at best with the 3.42 gears and 17 rims I have. 

Good luck with your next ride if you do decide to build it.


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