# Complete Stihl 041AV Super step-by-step rebuild - very pic heavy! (for 041 newbies)



## Brmorgan (Feb 16, 2010)

Today I finally got around to tearing my 041AVS down and rebuilding it onto a "better" case. Still not perfect but the best AV case I've seen so far.

Here's what I started out with:







Here I already have the cylinder mounting studs inserted into the case with blue threadlocker for added security. Regular 61cc 041 cylinders use regular mounting bolts which only go through the base flange instead of the entire cylinder.

You can see this case's only two defects - the broken bolt eye at the very top of the photo that I repaired, and a crack in the thin metal on the bottom of the case below the flywheel area, at the very lower right in the photo. I haven't tackled this one yet because I'm not quite sure how to do it right. Not sure if some mesh and a thin layer of JB on the backside would help it or if it's worth the effort. This is a major weak spot with this case design. I also installed a brand new plug wire in this unit, which must pass through the rubber grommet to the right of the bottom-right cylinder stud. The kill wire passes through a smaller grommet in the top of the case, visible at the very bottom edge of the photo.






Got the points ignition installed and hooked up to the new plugwire. I tried an electronic setup that I had but couldn't get it to produce a hot enough spark to start the saw, so back to good ol' reliable points it is. The points are located under the black housing at 6:00 in the photo, and the round grey cover tab can be pulled out to inspect and service the points themselves. There are three wires going to the condenser - the bottom one is the timing wire from the points, the top one is the kill wire going out through the case, and the one on the left is the incoming high-voltage wire from the coil.






This is what the SEM electronic ignition coil looks like. The high-tension coil is missing in this photo but looks similar to the points coil, just without the metal "ears" sticking out the ends. 






These are the different flywheels - the one on the left is for the SEM electronic ignition, and the one on the right is for a points ignition. You can barely see the timing lobe on the inner shaft of the flywheel - it goes from about 9:00 to 12:00 on the shaft. Notice the windows in the flywheel for checking the point gap as well.


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## Brmorgan (Feb 16, 2010)

*61cc --> 72cc cylinder differences*

Since this has come up a few times I thought I'd put up a few pictures just to show both side by side:






The Super 72cc cylinder is on the left, and took a hit at the scrapyard before I rescued it which busted three fins off the top at the left. I've ported the exhaust out a bit but it was originally about the same size as that of the 61cc cylinder. The lack of recesses between the port and the bolt holes is one giveaway for a Super cylinder. 






Super cyl. still on the left. Not too much difference here; the fin design is a little different but still very similar. One big difference you can see though is the line of holes through the fins to allow access for cylinder bolts on the 61cc cyl. whereas the mounting stud "tubes" are molded solid right into the cylinder on the Super.






The bases are also a little different. The Super cylinder, still on the left, doesn't have the larger cutouts around the case-to-cylinder transfer areas. The bore is 4mm larger though so I'm not sure if there would be any advantage to grinding anything like that out. The small notches on the Super cylinder did, however, have very sharp edges where they transitioned into the cylinder at the top, which I smoothed out a bit with the Dremel when I did the port work.











Pretty obvious here, Super piston is on the left. Not really any significant differences other than size though. I had the one ring out of the Super piston to make it easier to get the cylinder on and off to do squish testing etc.


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## Brmorgan (Feb 16, 2010)

Here I have the piston re-mounted with some .032" fine solder taped to the top to test the squish. At first it didn't even touch it, so I took a bit off the cylinder base with some 80 grit sandpaper on a piece of flat steel I keep on my bench for such things:






Took a while but it got it down to .024" without too much effort. Light, easy strokes are the name of the game or the cylinder wants to dig in and tip, creating an uneven surface.






I don't have ring clamps and these Super cylinders are a bit tricky to get on with all the studs in the way, but I got it done with a bit of lube. I secured the cylinder with four brand-new Nylon lock nuts. The other two holes in the cylinder are for mounting the rear/lower handle section. I should note I left the base gasket out and used some Permatex MotoSeal to seal the base.






Polished the flywheel in the wire wheel, lined it up with the keyway, and cinched it down with my 18V cordless impact driver.






Got the fan mounted now with the three screws around the center cup section. All my 041s use Fairbanks-Morse starters, but some have pawl-type which need a fan with a sawtooth-type pattern in the center to engage the starter pawls.


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## nanuk (Feb 16, 2010)

*Looks good.*

Keep in coming!

opcorn:


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## Brmorgan (Feb 16, 2010)

I repaired the bolt ear the same way I did this one on my other 041 a month ago:






Here's the one I repaired today:






Only difference is that I cut the notch wider to accommodate two washers instead of one for a bit of added strength (hopefully). The first one I did is still holding up okay. I apply a bit of JB Weld to the washers & groove before I mate the two, then I apply quite a bit of JB to cover up the whole works, using a couple pieces of packaging cardboard etc. as "forms" to keep it in shape. Once it's cured I file/grind it to shape, and locate and drill the hole. This one thankfully doesn't need to be tapped since the bolt only goes through it to the mount hole in the rear handle section:






On goes the rear section of the saw. At first it's only secured by the two bolts into the top end of the cylinder in the center of the photo. I like to leave these bolts slightly loosened during assembly to allow a bit of play to help everything line up, rather than risk crossthreading a bolt or something.






It's nearly impossible to port match these mufflers very well due to the flange/pipe design, unless a guy was to add some material behind the flange with a welder. I've thought of doing it but haven't tried yet. I ground the flange out to at least smooth out the lines a little bit; it's still a pretty abrupt transition but better than having 90° edges around the perimeter. As it is you can see the copper brazing that mates the flange to the pipe.






Got the muffler mounted with the two flange bolts. The two bolts below the muffler box have to wait for a few steps. This is the more modern "firesafe" muffler which can accommodate a spark arrestor screen. It won't be, though.






Here the intake block and heat shield are secured. The gasket looked a little suspect so I decided a layer of MotoSeal was in order rather than cutting a new one. Not sure how it'll hold up; we'll see.


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## SkippyKtm (Feb 16, 2010)

These Kind of Threads are what makes Arboristsite Great! Great job Brad, Keep 'em Coming, and Thank You! This is definitely getting Bookmarked for reference!


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## Brmorgan (Feb 16, 2010)

Mounted the top section now:






There's one carriage-style bolt that goes through the rear AV mount, and two 5mm assembly bolts that mount it to the front AV.






Now that the top handle's on I can mount the carb baseplate, install the throttle linkage, and mount the carb. The impulse line also needs to be hooked up to the hose nipple on the case next to the orange oiler adjuster, and to the nipple on the backplate of the carb, NOT the one on the side. That one is for the fuel line.






The little grommet on the kill wire goes into a recess in the side of the heat shield. This is one easy way to remember how to orient the heat shield if you ever forget.






Got the new plug boot put on the wire. The second grommet on the plug wire goes in a recess in the side of the rear handle section and is held in place by the tank/recoil housing:






Secure all the bolts but the top-right one for the time being. The next step will show why.


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## leeha (Feb 16, 2010)

Great thread, Nice to see another 
old saw come together.
Keep up the fine work.


Lee


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## Brmorgan (Feb 16, 2010)

I choose to mount the filter plate after the tank housing, because that way I still have easy access to the fuel lines etc. around the carb to make sure there's a good tight fit between the tank and carb. First attach the choke linkage (black tab at top in photo), and then fit it into place and secure it with two 8mm X 5mm nuts onto the carb mounting bolts. It is also secured to the rear handle and tank sections (lower right in photo) via a thin "bar" piece that fits between the two main parts, and has an elongated hole at the lower end to allow for some movement. 






Got the freshly re-rubbered full-wrap handle back on it. I'd never seen one of these on an 041 before but my old friend had one kicking around his '41 parts box so I made an offer on it. I think it looks pretty mean on the Super at any rate.






Now on to the oiler and clutch. The oiler is linked to the clutch drum via a washer with a hole and a pin. The pin fits into a hole in the oiler and a hole in the sprocket, or in my case, a notch in the rim splines.






Next I installed the sacrificial plastic wear strip along the back side of the PTO area - it has one small tab that fits into a recess in the case at the bottom, and one screw that secures it at the top, visible above the clutch in the photo. The correct order for the clutch assembly is oiler washer - drum bearing - drum - ~2mm spacer bushing - clutch washer - clutch. Some clutches are held on by separate nuts; this one has it built into the center plate. If you have an 041 with a sticky clutch check for the spacer bushing that must go between the clutch and the shoulder on the crank; otherwise the clutch will suck right down against the drum when you tighten it down.






Now the muffler guard can go on. This piece has three bolts along the bottom edge and one at the top-left of the muffler. This is why I like to leave the bolts loose that hold the rear section to the cylinder head - sometimes these holes don't all like to line up at first with the muffler, which is firmly affixed to the cylinder and can't budge. Once the two lower muffler mount bolts are tightened down though you can suck it down tight to the cylinder. That repaired bolt ear at lower right seems to be working like a champ so far; now to see how it holds up to runtime.


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## Brmorgan (Feb 16, 2010)

After a quick shot of fuel down the throat and a couple pulls, she fired right up. Not too much though - I don't feel like eating clutch pieces with it free-revving. Now that I know it's pulling fuel on its own properly I put the air filter and cover on:











I guess the "Electronic" model plate is a misnomer now... Oh well, I want to find a Super tag for it anyway.






I mounted the 24" hardnose bar and 3/8" skip chain that was on the 041 G, and put the 28" 3/8" setup that was on the pawnshop 066 I just got on the 041G instead, since that's about what I figure it would be happiest with anyway. I even managed to find a "Western" (if you will) clutch cover for this one to go along with the full-wrap bar - it has the felling guide line, though I forgot to make sure it showed up in the photo here. I've never seen another one with that line yet.

So, here's what she looks like all wiped down after assembly:






I plan on changing out the oiler cap to the same style as the fuel cap - I hate hate hate those square oiler caps! No rational reason why though.  I also plan on getting a second spike on the inside as well; they're pretty easy to come across and it looks a lot better IMO.

All in all it could use a bit of paint around the corners but it's a real nice solid work saw now, and runs like a charm, as all 041s do. Now to find a tree to bury the bar in!


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## belgian (Feb 16, 2010)

Nice job, Brad !!

I've done a few of these and recognize everything you have shown ...

The oiler is a bit peculiar on this one, just make sure the O-rings are still in good shape.


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## southbound (Feb 16, 2010)

Great how to!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## matt9923 (Feb 16, 2010)

nice job, that saw looks great!


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## caotropheus (Feb 16, 2010)

:jawdrop::jawdrop::jawdrop::jawdrop::jawdrop: Fantastic! Brad, your step by step explanations and pictures are breathtaking. Thanks a lot.


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## Brmorgan (Feb 16, 2010)

belgian said:


> Nice job, Brad !!
> 
> I've done a few of these and recognize everything you have shown ...
> 
> The oiler is a bit peculiar on this one, just make sure the O-rings are still in good shape.



I never had to touch the oiler on this one, so I didn't get any pictures of that. I did just have to replace the one on the 041G I got going last week. I have a couple spare cases left though, so maybe I'll pull one today and take some pics just for completeness' sake.


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## Brmorgan (Feb 16, 2010)

matt9923 said:


> nice job, that saw looks great!



That may be, but it sounds better! Thanks!


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## SpaayDawg (Feb 16, 2010)

Great to see other 041 enthusiasts, great build, and attention to detail. Gotta love that exhaust tone!!


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## djmercer1 (Feb 16, 2010)

Brmorgan said:


> After a quick shot of fuel down .....
> 
> I plan on changing out the oiler cap to the same style as the fuel cap - I hate hate hate those square oiler caps! No rational reason why though.  I also plan on getting a second spike on the inside as well; they're pretty easy to come across and it looks a lot better IMO.
> .....



i think they(041/051/075) were bought with the fuel/oil cap combination.... mine was anyway...


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## jkilov (Feb 16, 2010)

Hi, I'm new to the forum but not new to 041s.

Mine is an early model, one of the first AVs to hit the market. Couple of things I'd like to add:

- The clutch spacer you're talking about was not part of my saw. It came added with the "new"-style clutch drum kit which had a wider sprocket than the original, hence something was needed to space the clutch further out.
- Some had no muffler guards, just an extended bar cover that wrapped around the muffler
- Plug hole has only a few threads which can easly strip
- Rear handle mount is a weak point, specially when operators step on it like elefants
- Chain tensioner mechanism likes to develop slack over time
- A few parts of the scissor starting mechnism like to act up
- Air filters get dirty real quick, or is it just me?

Bottom line, it's a great saw with a few detail flaws. A bit too heavy and slow for modern standards but i actually still use it.


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## Brmorgan (Feb 16, 2010)

Hm, well this is about the fifth or sixth 041 I've worked on and all of them so far had that spacer bushing against the shoulder of the crank. This Super is using a rim-drive drum that I bought after the fact and the bushing was not part of that kit, it was already on the crank; the rest were all spur drives and they all needed the bushing too. My 045AV is the same way. So I dunno. I do agree though that there have been many minor variations on these saws over their 40-odd year lifespan so I doubt I've seen all of them

I think the other muffler/side cover style you're thinking of is the non-AV one like this one of mine:






They won't fit the AV models because of the two extra mounting tabs on the bottom of the AV mufflers though.

Do you mean the rear handle is weak where it mounts to the cylinder, or at the rear pivot point where both sections are mated through the rubber AV bushings? If the latter, the biggest thing to keep in mind is to not over-torque the carriage bolt that goes through those pieces. Since the rear section fits around the AV bushings like a "Y", if you put too much torque to it it will just compress the rubber bushings and crack the "Y" since Magnesium isn't exactly very flexible.

The main problem I've seen with the tensioners is the bolt getting bent by people trying to over-torque it either with the bar nuts still tight or with the bar already at the end of its adjustment channel so it can't move any further. That, and worn, rounded-off nubs that just slip rather than engage the tensioner hole in the bar.

The Fairbanks-Morse starters on these are pretty sensitive to dirt and oil. If the friction washers get oily or shined up they won't engage the shoes properly and it'll slip. It's an easy fix once you're accustomed to putting them together. I have to build a starter for the 61cc 041AV I'm working on this afternoon (last one of four, finally!), so will take a couple pictures of that as well along with the oiler.


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## belgian (Feb 17, 2010)

jkilov said:


> Hi, I'm new to the forum but not new to 041s.
> 
> Mine is an early model, one of the first AVs to hit the market. Couple of things I'd like to add:
> 
> - The clutch spacer you're talking about was not part of my saw. It came added with the "new"-style clutch drum kit which had a wider sprocket than the original, hence something was needed to space the clutch further out.



I am not sure about this. I've always seen the spacer Brad indicated.



> - Some had no muffler guards, just an extended bar cover that wrapped around the muffler.


 True. Those were the early models. There have been plenty of small variations in this model afterwards.

-


> Plug hole has only a few threads which can easly strip.


 Can't confirm, never experienced a problem on this point




> - Rear handle mount is a weak point, specially when operators step on it like elefants


 Quite through, especially the AV version. I need a few rear bases to complete a few saws.



> - Chain tensioner mechanism likes to develop slack over time


 It's a relative small tensioner, but not really a problem if you take care.



> - A few parts of the scissor starting mechnism like to act up


 fairly true with all FB type starters. The later models had the new style pawls.




> - Air filters get dirty real quick, or is it just me?


 quite true. All saws I found have very dirty air filters. You need to clean them often.




> Bottom line, it's a great saw with a few detail flaws. A bit too heavy and slow for modern standards but i actually still use it.


 Don't forget that this model is nearly 40 years old. It was a heck of a firewood saw in the old days, compared to other saws. The main weak point for me is the number of seals/parts used between carb and cylinder. They are a major risk for an air leak.


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## Brmorgan (Feb 17, 2010)

*Assembled the herd today*

Well I got the fourth and final (for now) 041 in the lineup built today. Stayed in the basement 'til 11PM getting it done - you guys know how it is sometimes. Anyway it's built out of all the second-best parts I had left over. It's mechanically just as solid as the others, it's just missing a fair bit more paint and has some breakage in behind the clutch from chain contact. I had to go to a plumbing shop to find 7/8" rubber hose for its larger-diameter handle though; the Grote heater hose goes right from 3/4" to 1", at least at my local suppliers. And the plumbing hose is $3.50/ft as opposed to about $1.25 for the heater hose.  I got a few extra feet for my 090 handle too.

Anyway here's the lineup:







L to R: 61cc 041, 61cc 041 AV, 72cc 041 AV Super, and lastly 041 G. I'm really liking how that fresh rubber looks on them.






The two little guys have 20" 3/8" setups, the Super a 25" 3/8" skip chain, and I put a 28" 3/8" skip on the geardrive. 

I might be going to cut a bit of firewood tomorrow (weather permitting), and if so I'll be taking the Super for a good run; I just wish I had an extra 8-pin rim for the skip chain that's on it - it'll have plenty enough power to pull it. Not sure there will be anything worth cutting with the Geardrive, but it'll be along for the trip just in case.


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## parrisw (Feb 17, 2010)

Nice work Brad!! Looks good.

If ya need any small misc parts let me know, I just came into allot of parts.


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## Brmorgan (Feb 17, 2010)

Well actually a good non-AV top cover is about all I need. I borrowed one from my friend so I could take that picture.  I have to take one more look around his parts, but I don't think he has one. I'd really really love to find a "G" top cover but I'm not getting my hopes up. When I assembled this last one I also noticed a couple chips in the chrome on in the cylinder above the exhaust port and right in the corner around the squish band, so I'm on the lookout for a near-free good cylinder too. I'm pretty sure I can get one of those from my friend though since I gave him back a spare I had, thinking this one was good. This one runs just fine though, for now.

Just for kicks I started all four in the basement shop for just a few seconds after taking those photos. Sounded like a Hells' Angels rally! I'm going to try to get a video of all four at idle tomorrow. I could throw the 090, 045, and 031 in just for fun too maybe... Hmm... This might take some organizing!


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## belgian (Feb 17, 2010)

Brmorgan said:


> . I'm really liking how that fresh rubber looks on them.




:agree2: I need to find myself some hose like that !!
Nice lineup too !


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## bigbadbob (Feb 17, 2010)

Nice work, nice lineup.
Bob


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## howellhandmade (Feb 17, 2010)

Man, great job. Pictures and text are super clear -- very good teaching and it's really generous of you to take the time. Makes me want a 41. I have one question, though -- is there a temp rating on the nylon locking nuts? I'd be concerned that the high temperature would melt the nylon and you'd be left with plain ol' nuts.

Jack


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## parrisw (Feb 17, 2010)

Brmorgan said:


> Well actually a good non-AV top cover is about all I need. I borrowed one from my friend so I could take that picture.  I have to take one more look around his parts, but I don't think he has one. I'd really really love to find a "G" top cover but I'm not getting my hopes up. When I assembled this last one I also noticed a couple chips in the chrome on in the cylinder above the exhaust port and right in the corner around the squish band, so I'm on the lookout for a near-free good cylinder too. I'm pretty sure I can get one of those from my friend though since I gave him back a spare I had, thinking this one was good. This one runs just fine though, for now.
> 
> Just for kicks I started all four in the basement shop for just a few seconds after taking those photos. Sounded like a Hells' Angels rally! I'm going to try to get a video of all four at idle tomorrow. I could throw the 090, 045, and 031 in just for fun too maybe... Hmm... This might take some organizing!



Hey, sorry no covers for 041, I only have a few covers, I think for 026 series? Not sure yet, just guessing. I got a new 066 starter cover with elastostart if needed.

I have lots of misc parts, some ignitions, carb stuff ect.......


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## Brmorgan (Feb 17, 2010)

howellhandmade said:


> Man, great job. Pictures and text are super clear -- very good teaching and it's really generous of you to take the time. Makes me want a 41. I have one question, though -- is there a temp rating on the nylon locking nuts? I'd be concerned that the high temperature would melt the nylon *and you'd be left with plain ol' nuts*.
> 
> Jack



Well it wouldn't be the first time for that. LOL.

Actually I'm not sure. It's pretty high though, but I guess time will tell. These old gals don't run nearly as hot as the newer saws though. Plenty of fuel and lower RPMs with less restrictive mufflers.


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## djmercer1 (Feb 17, 2010)

Brmorgan said:


> Well it wouldn't be the first time for that. LOL.
> 
> Actually I'm not sure. It's pretty high though, but I guess time will tell. These old gals don't run nearly as hot as the newer saws though. Plenty of fuel and lower RPMs with less restrictive mufflers.



their good up to about 150 degc..... there are opther types of self locking nuts like spring beams or distorted threads if heat is an issue...


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## djmercer1 (Feb 17, 2010)

Brmorgan said:


> .......
> Do you mean the rear handle is weak where it mounts to the cylinder, or at the rear pivot point where both sections are mated through the rubber AV bushings? If the latter, the biggest thing to keep in mind is to not over-torque the carriage bolt that goes through those pieces. Since the rear section fits around the AV bushings like a "Y", if you put too much torque to it it will just compress the rubber bushings and crack the "Y" since Magnesium isn't exactly very flexible.
> 
> The main problem I've seen with the tensioners is the bolt getting bent by people trying to over-torque it either with the bar nuts still tight or with the bar already at the end of its adjustment channel so it can't move any further. That, and worn, rounded-off nubs that just slip rather than engage the tensioner hole in the bar.
> ...




shouldnt really if youre a little strong on the wrench when tightening the rear av mount because there should be a steel sleevespacer that puts stress into the carriage bolt threads---this is what prevents the nut from rattling off and prevent for closing the 2 ears...

as for the tensioner, thats a problem with all saws and those that cant tighten a chain properly, there should be very little tension on it, infact it is possible to properly tighten the chain without using it....


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## dswensen (Feb 17, 2010)

*How about some more 041AV advice?*

Nice 041s! Thanks for the great pics and lessons

I have an 041 AV just like this one. I don't have a Stihl flywheel puller and can't get my flywheel off. Don't want to destroy the threads by pounding. Is there a better secret?


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## SpaayDawg (Feb 17, 2010)

dswensen said:


> Nice 041s! Thanks for the great pics and lessons
> 
> I have an 041 AV just like this one. I don't have a Stihl flywheel puller and can't get my flywheel off. Don't want to destroy the threads by pounding. Is there a better secret?



The first 041 flywheel I took off I used a regular "bolt-type" puller. I got some bolts that would fit into where the 3 bolts that hold the fins to the flywheel thread into, about 2 inches long. Then I used various washers to make sure that the small heads of the long bolts didn't pull through the slots in the puller. Turn away on the puller and it should pop right off. 

If I may, why is it you need the flywheel off? The ignition system can be tuned with the flywheel in place if need be, FYI.


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## Brmorgan (Feb 18, 2010)

Well if you don't have access to a puller, one method that might work if it isn't stuck on too hard is to remove the flywheel nut, and then thread it back on only one or two turns. This way it'll sit on the end of the crank and protrude out farther than the crank end AND the flywheel by about 3/16". Then hold on to the flywheel tight with one hand and give the nut a couple good whacks with a hard rubber or wooden mallet with the other. It's a bit of a trick to get good at, but it's how I removed these 041 flywheels because it's a lot faster and easier than setting up a 3-way puller, and I'm in the same boat as you with not having a proper Stihl threaded puller on hand. It would help to have a third arm if you have a spare person handy, that's for sure. If it's being stubborn though you're better off giving it more rapid lighter hits than to start hitting it harder - you don't want to shear the threads off the crank AND nut.


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## jkilov (Feb 18, 2010)

Well I'm pretty sure the early 041AVs came without the spacer and a different clutch and cover setup. I've had 2 of them and the first had none, 2nd had it.

Managed to find my musty old parts list and it does'nt indicate that ring which is listed for the new one (part 16 in newer IPL)





... and the old style clutch


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## jkilov (Feb 18, 2010)

Again, sprocket change procedure from the manual.

Wow, all this commotion about a spacer !? :biggrinbounce2:


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## jkilov (Feb 18, 2010)

..... old scissor starter (parts 14 & 25, rubber friction washers) ....






... and new pawl style ....


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## jkilov (Feb 18, 2010)

Apparently, some came with chain brakes, I could use one of these.


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## jkilov (Feb 18, 2010)

Regular (44mm) and stud mounted Super piston (48mm)






wow, I'm having a blast with this thread .


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## jkilov (Feb 18, 2010)

Air filter after 10hrs 






and pic of the whole saw, could use a bit more daylight, well perhaps some other time.


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## SpaayDawg (Feb 18, 2010)

jkilov said:


> Air filter after 10hrs
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Wow!!! Great way to start posting, welcome.

REP sent.


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## dswensen (Feb 18, 2010)

*Good question*

I'm thinking of changing the points/condensor out for a new Nova module.




SpaayDawg said:


> The first 041 flywheel I took off I used a regular "bolt-type" puller. I got some bolts that would fit into where the 3 bolts that hold the fins to the flywheel thread into, about 2 inches long. Then I used various washers to make sure that the small heads of the long bolts didn't pull through the slots in the puller. Turn away on the puller and it should pop right off.
> 
> If I may, why is it you need the flywheel off? The ignition system can be tuned with the flywheel in place if need be, FYI.


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## dswensen (Feb 18, 2010)

*Thanks Brad.*

Yeah, this is what I tried. I must have hit that nut on the end of the crank 100 times - no joy - looks like I'll have to come up with plan B. I think plan B looks like doing something with the flywheel mounting holes as was suggested.



Brmorgan said:


> Well if you don't have access to a puller, one method that might work if it isn't stuck on too hard is to remove the flywheel nut, and then thread it back on only one or two turns. This way it'll sit on the end of the crank and protrude out farther than the crank end AND the flywheel by about 3/16". Then hold on to the flywheel tight with one hand and give the nut a couple good whacks with a hard rubber or wooden mallet with the other. It's a bit of a trick to get good at, but it's how I removed these 041 flywheels because it's a lot faster and easier than setting up a 3-way puller, and I'm in the same boat as you with not having a proper Stihl threaded puller on hand. It would help to have a third arm if you have a spare person handy, that's for sure. If it's being stubborn though you're better off giving it more rapid lighter hits than to start hitting it harder - you don't want to shear the threads off the crank AND nut.


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## Brmorgan (Feb 18, 2010)

jkilov said:


> Well I'm pretty sure the early 041AVs came without the spacer and a different clutch and cover setup. I've had 2 of them and the first had none, 2nd had it.
> 
> Managed to find my musty old parts list and it does'nt indicate that ring which is listed for the new one (part 16 in newer IPL)
> 
> ...



Nope the bushing I'm talking about is #22 in that IPL, down by the rim drive drum drawing. It goes on AFTER the clutch drum. #16 is just a very thin washer that goes between the oiler drive washer and the oiler to prevent wear on the seal ring #15. If I don't have that #22 ring in place, the clutch drum protrudes out farther than the shoulder on the crank and out into the threaded portion, so there's nothing stopping the clutch from threading right down onto the drum itself. All of the 041AVs I've ever seen need this ring; the non-AV 041 has a slightly different crank and can get away without it (as according to the second diagram), but barely. I actually ground about 1/16" off the splined portion of my one rim drum so I could still use it without the spacer, but that was before I had an IPL and I thought it was somehow not quite the right drum for the saw.

BTW where did you get the rounded top cover for that saw? I've never seen one like that before - it looks like it's a later-model one that they tried to make fit in with the 032's more sleek lines. I like it though!

If you ask me, you might have a bit of a Frankensaw on your hands there. I don't believe Stihl ever built AV models with the one-piece muffler and clutch cover. It wouldn't make any sense since the rear handle section is obviously designed to accomodate the muffler grille piece. I think someone has put a non-AV muffler and cover on that saw after the fact. Who knows though, stranger things have happened. I considered putting one of those mufflers on my other AV because it they have four slits instead of two and should be a bit less restrictive; frankly my non-AV seems to run a bit better than the 61cc AV, and all else besides the muffler should really be pretty equal as far as the engine goes. I used identical AV topends to build both.


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## jkilov (Feb 19, 2010)

Brmorgan said:


> Nope the bushing I'm talking about is #22 in that IPL, down by the rim drive drum drawing.


My bad, I meant that part (22). 



Brmorgan said:


> BTW where did you get the rounded top cover for that saw? I've never seen one like that before - it looks like it's a later-model one that they tried to make fit in with the 032's more sleek lines. I like it though!


Nope, it's an original cover. "STIHL 041AV" clearly stamped on it.



Brmorgan said:


> If you ask me, you might have a bit of a Frankensaw on your hands there. I don't believe Stihl ever built AV models with the one-piece muffler and clutch cover. It wouldn't make any sense since the rear handle section is obviously designed to accomodate the muffler grille piece. I think someone has put a non-AV muffler and cover on that saw after the fact.


I don't think so, saw belonged to my father from day 1, he never mentioned replacing anything. Thing is, he bought one of the first ones , actually waited for it to hit the market. He did in fact wonder what the spare holes were for. Came with an English manual and German parts list, which would be unheard of these days.

Maybe Stihl did not have all the parts ready for production, so made the first batches frankensteining readily available parts until the new arrived. We may never know .

Here's a pic from the manual showing the saw as it came from the factory.


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## SpaayDawg (Feb 19, 2010)

jkilov said:


> Maybe Stihl did not have all the parts ready for production, so made the first batches frankensteining readily available parts until the new arrived. We may never know .
> 
> Here's a pic from the manual showing the saw as it came from the factory.



I have seen some strange things with 041av's as I've been aquiring parts. I have 3 different clutch covers (1 with chainbrake) but none of the clutch/muffler cover as in the picture. I've only seen those on non-av saws.
I know that my father's first one was some sort of frankensaw. The nameplate reads: 041AV Farmboss, electronic. The ignition was points/condenser, and it had the chain-brake handgaurd but didn't have the chainbrake clutch cover. Who knows for sure, I'm sure Stihl was using up existing inventory at some point.


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## magneto259 (Mar 17, 2010)

Awesome post with pictures. I just rebuilt the carb on my 041av and the damn thing still won't start. Looks like its flooding it self out. Any suggestions or things I should look for? Thanks!


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## SpaayDawg (Mar 17, 2010)

magneto259 said:


> Awesome post with pictures. I just rebuilt the carb on my 041av and the damn thing still won't start. Looks like its flooding it self out. Any suggestions or things I should look for? Thanks!



A carb rebuild will only work if the rest of the saw is in good order. Make sure it has good compression (get a tester or have it tested) usually over 130psi will make a saw "run". Check to see that you're getting spark, and at the proper time. The later is alittle harder, but if your flywheel is in the correct position 99.9% of the time it will be good.

I once pulled on one for 2 days, put a carb kit in it, checked the spark, replaced the fuel and impulse hoses, pulled, pulled and pulled. I ended up taking it apart and found that the rings were welded to the piston. Oh, well more parts for the others in the fleet!


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## magneto259 (Mar 17, 2010)

Well it did run earlier this year but was running crappy. So i took the carb off and never ran again. So i rebuilt the carb and still no go. It will blow a nice flame out of the cylinder with the plug out but no go with it in and it was a new plug.


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## 7oaks (Mar 18, 2010)

Interesting thread...I'll catch more of it tomorrow - to bed now!


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## SpaayDawg (Mar 18, 2010)

*gaskets*



magneto259 said:


> Well it did run earlier this year but was running crappy. So i took the carb off and never ran again. So i rebuilt the carb and still no go. It will blow a nice flame out of the cylinder with the plug out but no go with it in and it was a new plug.



Have you checked to make sure everything is sealed up good? I know, I know there are alot of gaskets especially on the intake side of things. I can still get them from my dealer, but have started to make my own too.

What do you mean, "crappy"? Did it not hold idle and die? Not have power in the cut? Did it want to run higher rpm without the trigger pressed? Once we know this we could steer you alittle better.

Check the H/L carb adjustment screws. I think mine usually start out at 3/4 turn out from bottomed for both the H and L. Maybe try that first.


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## TraditionalTool (Mar 18, 2010)

Great thread and nice job Brad!


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## magneto259 (Mar 18, 2010)

As far as crappy. It would cut out and pop every now and then at wot and felt alittle low on power in a big cut. I checked out the ignition and everything seemed in good order. When i rebuilt the carb i put in a new intake gasket. I'm going to check out the muffler a guy at work told me to check and make sure its not plugged up???? I'll check it out. Thanks in advance!


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## SpaayDawg (Mar 18, 2010)

*muffler screen*



magneto259 said:


> As far as crappy. It would cut out and pop every now and then at wot and felt alittle low on power in a big cut. I checked out the ignition and everything seemed in good order. When i rebuilt the carb i put in a new intake gasket. I'm going to check out the muffler a guy at work told me to check and make sure its not plugged up???? I'll check it out. Thanks in advance!



Only if you can see a visable muffler screen from the outside could it get constrictive. Most of the 041s didn't have a muffler screen to worry about. It could be a clogged fuel filter, or fuel line crack not allowing fuel to be delivered to the carb at higher rates, but allowing it to idle.


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## Brmorgan (Mar 20, 2010)

magneto259 said:


> As far as crappy. It would cut out and pop every now and then at wot and felt alittle low on power in a big cut. I checked out the ignition and everything seemed in good order. When i rebuilt the carb i put in a new intake gasket. I'm going to check out the muffler a guy at work told me to check and make sure its not plugged up???? I'll check it out. Thanks in advance!



The muffler "pipe" could get plugged with carbon buildup if you're running the saw really rich on poor oil, but it sounds like you might have low compression and/or an air leak. Have you ever inspected the piston and cylinder? It should have been visible down the intake stack when you swapped the carbs over. 

It could also be a bad fuel pickup line or simply a plugged fuel filter. The in-tank lines on these saws are really bad for cracking and leaking around the top where the plastic nipple piece is pushed into it.

Also, I'm assuming you've put all fresh gas in the saw? Old gas with a bit of water condensation will act like that, and not be good at all for the saw.

When you rebuilt the carb, are you sure you got everything in the right order? On the metering side, you put the gasket first, then the metering diaphragm, then the cap/cover. On the fuel pump side, it's diaphragm sheet first, then gasket, then cover (should be pretty obvious on this side). If you get the metering backwards it will usually flood the saw because it'll hold the metering needle valve open all the time. If the pump side is backwards I'm not sure you'd get anything to work at all.


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## keith811 (Mar 20, 2010)

dswensen said:


> Yeah, this is what I tried. I must have hit that nut on the end of the crank 100 times - no joy - looks like I'll have to come up with plan B. I think plan B looks like doing something with the flywheel mounting holes as was suggested.



I ussually use my little 2 bolt puller when a few smart taps of the mallet don't work. I don't like to take to much of a chance of messing up the crank


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## BattleSausage (Apr 3, 2010)

Sorry to resurrect this thread but if anyone can lend a helping brain, I have a few questions. My father passed and out of the basement garage came a lovely find in a yep, you guessed it, an 041AV(All it has is "STIHL 041 AV" on the top plate, so is this a points setup?). 

It runs strong, or seems to, however at idle the chain continuously moves. I checked the clutch assembly out and all seems well with it...everything seems to be in place at least. Should I try and idle it down(it seems close for a 2 stroke but then again I don't have a tach) or should I be more concerned with the clutch? 

I am also trying to figure out the oiling system. I have adjusted the oiler control knob both ways and it hasn't seemed to have made a difference. I haven't been able to get it to sling a stream at all. Should I be worried about the oiler as I haven't found any leaks thus far. Looking from the top, which way is the knob to be turned to increase/decrease oil displacement? I am under the assumption that it locks out also, or will it come out if turned to far in one direction? 

Any help would be appreciated. I have already submitted a request for a paper manual with Stihl, but if anyone has an electronic version that they would be willing to send over that would be great(I will submit a request in the manual request thread also if I don't get a reply here). 

Note: OP, thanks for the due diligence in updating the build with pictures.


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## parrisw (Apr 3, 2010)

BattleSausage said:


> Sorry to resurrect this thread but if anyone can lend a helping brain, I have a few questions. My father passed and out of the basement garage came a lovely find in a yep, you guessed it, an 041AV(All it has is "STIHL 041 AV" on the top plate, so is this a points setup?).
> 
> It runs strong, or seems to, however at idle the chain continuously moves. I checked the clutch assembly out and all seems well with it...everything seems to be in place at least. Should I try and idle it down(it seems close for a 2 stroke but then again I don't have a tach) or should I be more concerned with the clutch?
> 
> ...



If it's idleing down ok, then try some new clutch springs.


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## JJuday (Apr 3, 2010)

magneto259 said:


> Awesome post with pictures. I just rebuilt the carb on my 041av and the damn thing still won't start. Looks like its flooding it self out. Any suggestions or things I should look for? Thanks!



If you take the carb off again check the position/height of the metering needle arm relative to the base of the carb, I had the same thing happen and the arm was a ways out of adjustment. They fit a variety of carb models and some require different height adjustments for the particular carb model. The top of the arm should be level with the base, too far under and you get too much fuel. JJuday


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## BattleSausage (Apr 3, 2010)

parrisw said:


> If it's idleing down ok, then try some new clutch springs.



Got the clutch/idle sorted out now after a bit of tinkering. Thanks. Still checking out the oiling system.


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## JJuday (Apr 3, 2010)

BattleSausage said:


> Sorry to resurrect this thread but if anyone can lend a helping brain, I have a few questions. My father passed and out of the basement garage came a lovely find in a yep, you guessed it, an 041AV(All it has is "STIHL 041 AV" on the top plate, so is this a points setup?).
> 
> It runs strong, or seems to, however at idle the chain continuously moves. I checked the clutch assembly out and all seems well with it...everything seems to be in place at least. Should I try and idle it down(it seems close for a 2 stroke but then again I don't have a tach) or should I be more concerned with the clutch?
> 
> ...



Yes, it will be the points set up. That is not a bad thing though. As for the clutch question, try to idle it down till the chain dosen't move. The oiler....do not turn oil adjust knob to full + because it will damage the oiler adjust pin. I know from experience. If you take off the top cover and turn the oil adjust knob ccw till you can get it out look at the pin. Does it have a ball on the bottom? If it does good. If not it's broken and the knob is still in the case. I got mine out with a series of left hand drill bits and a grab-bit. If this happend to you saw also check the plunger portion at the front, just above the chain tensioner. If it leaks check the face for cracks. This will be a result of the plunger moving too far forward in the cylinder. A snap ring holds the oiler in, take it out and remove one of the screws from you muffler cover, 4-15mm if I remember right, anyway one muffler cover screw is what you need to thread into the female threaded face of the oiler. Pull it out and you will be able to see up into the piston recess, this will help if you need light if you are looking from above. Now the oiler it's self....while you are in there you might as well replace the seals on the piston it's self, they are just a few bucks and you might as well get a new assembly boot too. These parts are getting to the point of being NLA at the dealers so get them while you can. Back to the oiler, if it has cracked at the front like mine did you will have to JB weld it or apoxy, anything to seal the leak. I had the same problem with mine, I adjusted the oiler and BAM no oil. The ball that I am talking about on the oil controll pin is what engages the piston further into the cylinder, less engagement=less oil, more engagement=more oil becasue you are changing the lenght of the piston stroke. Too much and it can bottom on the end of the cylinder and damage it and results in snapping the controll pin. 

Sorry for hitting you with all of that at once. I've been there and done that with that same saw so if you have more questions you can either post back or P.M. me and I'll try to help the best I can. I have the maint. manual and IPL and owners book, get ahold of me and I can get you hooked up eith all of that too. JJuday


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## Brmorgan (Apr 4, 2010)

I'd never heard of that problem with adjusting the oiler all the way to its max before, thanks for the info. Do you mean if it's overtorqued in that direction, or that just being opened up 100% makes it more prone to the failure you described? I have encountered a couple other oilers that still work if opened up 100% but actually seem to pump _less_ than if they were backed off just a bit to, say, 90% for some reason. I couldn't really tell you which saws those were on though.


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## JJuday (Apr 4, 2010)

Brmorgan said:


> I'd never heard of that problem with adjusting the oiler all the way to its max before, thanks for the info. Do you mean if it's overtorqued in that direction, or that just being opened up 100% makes it more prone to the failure you described? I have encountered a couple other oilers that still work if opened up 100% but actually seem to pump _less_ than if they were backed off just a bit to, say, 90% for some reason. I couldn't really tell you which saws those were on though.



Well here was the situation. I had just rebuilt the carb on this saw and was rarrin' to get some trigger time on it. Put a 20'' b&c on it, and started to cut some old dead and dry Hickory log. I noticed that the bar was getting a little warmer than normal and thought I'll adjust the oiler. I knew right where the adjuster was but coiuldn't remember what way to turn so I got a flashlight and saw the large arrow and small arrow. I thought if more was good EVEN MORE would be better in the Hickory. I opened up 100%. At first it slung oil! Put it in the cut and not even got all the way through and the bar got so hot the chain stopped in it's tracks!  So I took it back to the shop and removed b&c and unstuck chain from bar chain groove, with the help of vise-grips!!! That is when I noticed oil all over my bench and all over the front of the saw. There is a small aluminum cap in the front center of the face of that oiler if you look at it from the front. Mine had a crack in it and that is where all the oil had escaped from. Not only that but the engagement/adjustment pin had broke off just about flush with that ball end down in the slot that it sits in. I read in the manual only after trying to get an idea of what was wrong and it said "Do not engage oiler to full or damage to oiler will occur" :jawdrop: So I didn't read that far into the manual.....maybe like I should have. The ball end increases the forward stroke of the oiler piston and apparently it will run into the backside of the cylinder, where the oil passage through the cylinder is. If you look into the front of the cyinder using the passage holes you'll see the back side of that little aluminum cap. Apparently mine set far enough back that when the piston came full stroke it smacked the cap cracking it and had enough preasure to snap that adjustment knob shaft above the ball end. For those of you who aren't familiar with that set up the bottom of the ball end is threaded and threads into the housing. When it breaks it's no fun to get out. With the piston all the way forward it apparently cannot pull as much because the piston it's self might be partially blocking the oil passage which may explain why some set at 100% seem to put out less oil. Not sure, I'm just glad I got it fixed! Oh, BTW new oilers are almost 90$ and still can be bought at the dealerships. No, I wasn't going to pay that for one! This is what happened to mine, will it happen to all of them? Maybe, maybe not, but after I read the "do not" in the manual I couldn't understand why they would make the oiler that way. I guess I hit the red self destruct button!! JJuday.


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## BattleSausage (Apr 5, 2010)

JJuday said:


> Yes, it will be the points set up. That is not a bad thing though. As for the clutch question, try to idle it down till the chain dosen't move. The oiler....do not turn oil adjust knob to full + because it will damage the oiler adjust pin. I know from experience. If you take off the top cover and turn the oil adjust knob ccw till you can get it out look at the pin. Does it have a ball on the bottom? If it does good. If not it's broken and the knob is still in the case. I got mine out with a series of left hand drill bits and a grab-bit. If this happend to you saw also check the plunger portion at the front, just above the chain tensioner. If it leaks check the face for cracks. This will be a result of the plunger moving too far forward in the cylinder. A snap ring holds the oiler in, take it out and remove one of the screws from you muffler cover, 4-15mm if I remember right, anyway one muffler cover screw is what you need to thread into the female threaded face of the oiler. Pull it out and you will be able to see up into the piston recess, this will help if you need light if you are looking from above. Now the oiler it's self....while you are in there you might as well replace the seals on the piston it's self, they are just a few bucks and you might as well get a new assembly boot too. These parts are getting to the point of being NLA at the dealers so get them while you can. Back to the oiler, if it has cracked at the front like mine did you will have to JB weld it or apoxy, anything to seal the leak. I had the same problem with mine, I adjusted the oiler and BAM no oil. The ball that I am talking about on the oil controll pin is what engages the piston further into the cylinder, less engagement=less oil, more engagement=more oil becasue you are changing the lenght of the piston stroke. Too much and it can bottom on the end of the cylinder and damage it and results in snapping the controll pin.
> 
> Sorry for hitting you with all of that at once. I've been there and done that with that same saw so if you have more questions you can either post back or P.M. me and I'll try to help the best I can. I have the maint. manual and IPL and owners book, get ahold of me and I can get you hooked up eith all of that too. JJuday



I appreciate your help. I got the clutch/chain problem fixed as it was a combination of both the bar/chain needing some adjustment and also(& mainly) the carb needing some adjustment. As far as the oiler, I realized that the original oiler control knob had been replaced, hence no arrows so I didn't know which way to go. I did adjust the oiler to the full open position and took it outside to test the sling pattern on an old dry peace of wood. I won't say that it slung a lot of oil but I did notice upon checking the bar/chain that they were well lubricated. I still don't think that the oiler is working properly but I need to try it out on some "good" wood and see how it does. I may be pulling it apart after all. I also tried to turn the knob ccw until it backed out but it stopped after about 5-6 rounds, so is there any way that I will damage anything by torquing this sucker to unscrew it?


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## Brmorgan (Apr 5, 2010)

BattleSausage said:


> I appreciate your help. I got the clutch/chain problem fixed as it was a combination of both the bar/chain needing some adjustment and also(& mainly) the carb needing some adjustment. As far as the oiler, I realized that the original oiler control knob had been replaced, hence no arrows so I didn't know which way to go. I did adjust the oiler to the full open position and took it outside to test the sling pattern on an old dry peace of wood. I won't say that it slung a lot of oil but I did notice upon checking the bar/chain that they were well lubricated. I still don't think that the oiler is working properly but I need to try it out on some "good" wood and see how it does. I may be pulling it apart after all. *I also tried to turn the knob ccw until it backed out but it stopped after about 5-6 rounds, so is there any way that I will damage anything by torquing this sucker to unscrew it?*



YES!!! It won't come all the way out just by "unscrewing" it CCW. There is a clip on the bottom that holds it into place. You have to take the clutch cover off, and then remove the (often pink) plastic sacrificial chip deflector / chain-guard strip in behind the clutch itself to get at it. It'll likely be packed right full of gunk in there if it hasn't been thoroughly cleaned in a while.

You can just barely see the bottom stub of the oiler knob above the crankshaft in this photo from earlier in the thread:







Sorry I don't have anything more detailed right now.


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## BattleSausage (Apr 6, 2010)

Brmorgan said:


> YES!!! It won't come all the way out just by "unscrewing" it CCW. There is a clip on the bottom that holds it into place. You have to take the clutch cover off, and then remove the (often pink) plastic sacrificial chip deflector / chain-guard strip in behind the clutch itself to get at it. It'll likely be packed right full of gunk in there if it hasn't been thoroughly cleaned in a while.



Thanks, I'll be sure now and look for this when I pull it apart this weekend. I may just pull this thing apart and put new seals in it, after all it is over 30 years old.


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## SpaayDawg (Apr 6, 2010)

BattleSausage said:


> Thanks, I'll be sure now and look for this when I pull it apart this weekend. I may just pull this thing apart and put new seals in it, after all it is over 30 years old.



I'd call your dealer and see if they have them or can still get them before you take anything apart. My dealer wasn't able to get seals for mine, but had a set stashed away in the back along with a set of bearings. Now if I could just find myself a Super cylinder I'd be in business!


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## fire1156 (Apr 18, 2010)

*Dads Stihl 041*

Hey guys....just found this site. I also have my dads old chainsaw and have really wanted to rebuild. Me and my eleven year old are in the process of doing this. First of all..this thing has been sitting for approximatly 15 years. Is this even possible? I am willing to spend $300 to $400 to have my dads saw running again. But are parts available? The piston is seized...of course. I am sure I need new cylinder. Brings up another point of frustration.....how do I remove cylinder from crank? There are four allen head bolts that seem impossible to access! 
I looked every where for manual, but I did not want to pay a web site for download. Have had terrible luck with these in past. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Bryan


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## Brmorgan (Apr 18, 2010)

For the manual, put a request in over in the "beg for manuals" thread. I have a parts list/diagram but I don't think I have a service manual for them. 

You'll need a long Allen wrench to get down through the cylinder to the bolts. I can't remember the wrench size needed offhand right now though.

041 parts are fairly plentiful and cheap, unless you find yourself needing to replace an electronic ignition. You shouldn't need to come anywhere close to your "budget" on this thing though. You could rebuild one from the ground up with used parts for less.

Is the piston seized or is the oiler leaking? I had that problem with one of mine; the little rubber O-ring in the oiler had failed, allowing bar oil into the cylinder when the saw sat unused. There's no way you can pull it over with oil in the cylinder so it'll feel like it's seized right up.


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## Dave Lee (May 7, 2010)

*041 61-72cc build - piston/cylinder availability?*

Greetings from NZ!

I love my well-weathered 041AV - had it a few yrs now after purchasing from an ole lumberman. I've had to replace a few bits and modify the starter spring retainer after my local Stihl shop's 3rd attempt at getting his new spring to stop unfurling. 

When folks look at it they scoff at the outward appearance (it's done a few cords in its life) until it does the business with ease and they realise they might have paid too much for their new fangled saw. Yep - a heart of gold inside that worn exterior! I use it for a mix of firewood and felling on my property but there are a couple of jobs (large trees that my 28" bar won't touch) that need more horsepower, and I'm keen to see if a 36-40" bar is possible. Someone suggested it would with a skip tooth chain, but I like the challenge of getting something going better than the factory (doing that with my ZZR1100 bike now) so hence this post with a view to open heart surgery on the beast.

First thoughts were maybe some porting /piston skirt work to see if that yields anything, though I don't want to lose the famed reliability, nor empty a tank of gas in the blink of an eye for minimal gain. [When I was 19 I ported my GT380 Suzuki to gain about 3mph top end and lose about 20% in economy - that was a painful introduction.]

So the big bore option is of much interest, but wondering if anyone has a 72cc Super cylinder/piston combo in their shed they are willing to part with?

Thanks in advance,

Dave


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## Brmorgan (May 8, 2010)

I think an 041 Super would pull a 36" skip chain if it needed to. I wouldn't want to do it often, but it would get it done. Not sure if they still have them, but a couple months ago Bailey's was offering some OEM Super pistons and cylinders. I don't remember the prices exactly but I know you'd be looking at a few hundred dollars. Might not be worth it for you. They're pretty hard to find used; they come up once in a while though.

I ported my Super out a fair bit, and decked the cylinder down and lost the base gasket to get as much compression as possible out of it. It has some pretty good grunt now. The biggest limitation IMO is the pipe-style muffler, especially the flange where it mounts to the cylinder. There isn't enough extra material there to really match it to the exhaust port well, plus the pipe design in itself seems somewhat restrictive to begin with. I think I put a couple photos of this at the beginning of the thread.


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## BattleSausage (May 8, 2010)

Alright guys, so I got around to finally tearing apart this old 41av and give her a good inspection before restoring. Piston and cylinder looks great, no gouging of any kind...looks like my old man treated her right. Honestly, I probably could have just replaced/rebuilt the oiling setup and she would have kept trucking along for many more years but I wanted to do it right. So here are some questions

1)I am gonna order new rings, so what is the recommended gap from Stihl...I swear if it's in the manual I missed it!
2)Should I just order new bearings? These look good and everything seemed fine...so how many have seen or how often have these things gone out on you guys?

Thanks, you all have been very helpful thus far


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## SamdaMan (Jun 25, 2010)

I bought one for $400 and one for $100 off ebay (041 super) (and a regulare 041 for $100) I destroyed the piston/cylinder on my first one .... ok noob error, didnt know the rings have to not be over that little pin lol broke the ring and tried it broken and that was the end of the piston and the clyinder heh ... 

Anyway the 2nd one has a type ''B" cylinder and a type "E" piston (although both are 48mm). The service manual says that type E piston can work with the D, E, F and the C with the A B C types .... 

Anyway just a heads up as something to look at the letter is stamped on the cyliner near the spark plug hole and the letter is stamped on the top of the piston head.

If anyone has a 48mm type C piston or a type E clyender Im in the market heh ....


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## parrisw (Jun 25, 2010)

SamdaMan said:


> I bought one for $400 and one for $100 off ebay (041 super) (and a regulare 041 for $100) I destroyed the piston/cylinder on my first one .... ok noob error, didnt know the rings have to not be over that little pin lol broke the ring and tried it broken and that was the end of the piston and the clyinder heh ...
> 
> Anyway the 2nd one has a type ''B" cylinder and a type "E" piston (although both are 48mm). The service manual says that type E piston can work with the D, E, F and the C with the A B C types ....
> 
> ...



I think I may have 1 or 2 new 041 pistons, I may have a super piston. I'll check later. Send me a PM about it so I don't forget.


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## Moose5517 (Apr 28, 2011)

*The New Guy*

Im a 041 super Newbie! just got one everything works except the oiler! What does I guy do to fix it?


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## Brmorgan (Apr 28, 2011)

First, check that the oiler flow is turned up. There's an orange "knob" under the air filter box near where the carburetor mounts to the cylinder. There are arrows on the top explaining which direction increases or decreases the flow. Also check that the oiler hole in the bar mount isn't obstructed.

Assuming those check out OK... The oiler is the round recess in the front of the saw's chassis next to the bar mount and spikes. There is a snap ring in there that you need to remove first, once that's out of the way, thread any 5mm assembly bolt into the hole that's there, and pull firmly, and the oiler should slide right out. Check the rubber O-ring to see if it's failed; though usually if it fails the oiler will dump bar oil into the crankcase and the saw will feel as if it's seized, because the oil won't compress like air will if you try to pull the starter. Hope this helps!


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## Moose5517 (Apr 28, 2011)

*The new guy*

Thanks i will take a look at it. looking at buying another 041 super the oiler also does not work and it does not run he says its the carb gasket. Does that make sense? How hard is it to fix? What should it be worth?


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## Jbevs (Jun 25, 2011)

Just bumping this to subscribe to it. For some reason all forum buttons are in german on this thread


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## oldmanriver (Mar 7, 2012)

*Intake moto seal*

Nice thread. How did that moto seal work out on the intake?


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## arrow13 (Feb 11, 2013)

*041 Super*

Fantastic thread. I'm getting one tomorrow and these photos and comments are just what I need to work on it. Thanks a lot!


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## glock37 (Feb 12, 2013)

arrow13 said:


> Fantastic thread. I'm getting one tomorrow and these photos and comments are just what I need to work on it. Thanks a lot!



http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/190402.htm

Check out this thread too 

enjoy it its a fun rebuild 

heres a 041 i just got done with View attachment 278775


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## arrow13 (Feb 12, 2013)

glock37 said:


> http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/190402.htm
> 
> Check out this thread too
> 
> ...



Mighty fine work! Thanks for the additional thread info too. Can't wait to get my hands on that saw tonight.


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## jh35 (Jun 1, 2013)

Great thread. I just got a 041 Farm Boss. My first Stihl. Anyway I've read up alot on the oiler situation as mine runs great but leaks bar oil into the cylinder. I have ordered the grommet /seal that goes around the oiler but it sounds like it may need o-rings inside the oiler. Does anyone have the part #'s or an exploded view to show what I need? Things to watch out for?

Thank you.
Jeff


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## arrow13 (Jun 25, 2013)

*Parts number request*



jh35 said:


> Great thread. I just got a 041 Farm Boss. My first Stihl. Anyway I've read up alot on the oiler situation as mine runs great but leaks bar oil into the cylinder. I have ordered the grommet /seal that goes around the oiler but it sounds like it may need o-rings inside the oiler. Does anyone have the part #'s or an exploded view to show what I need? Things to watch out for?
> 
> Thank you.
> Jeff



Go to the Beg for Manuals thread and request a manual and parts list (IPL). Someone is sure to provide you with what you need. Good luck!
Arrow13


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## jh35 (Jun 25, 2013)

arrow13 said:


> Go to the Beg for Manuals thread and request a manual and parts list (IPL). Someone is sure to provide you with what you need. Good luck!
> Arrow13



Thank you. I did just that and got a quick response. This place is great!


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## promac850 (Jun 27, 2013)

I refreshed one for a friend of mine, and now they use the old 041 (non AV) all the time and the MS441 sits since it's too damn heavy and cuts about the same.

Did a few tweaks... increased compression with the thinnest Fel-Pro karo-pack as the base gasket, (lowers squish from .041" <= !!!! to .030") and then cleaned up the ports, then polished the top of the piston. General refresh stuff. Also had to throw a new muffler on the old girl too, and new fuel lines were a must. Let me know how it works for you. Retuned and tested, then sent her back home.

Now that guy wants me to tinker with his 026 Super Farm Boss. (not sure if it is yet, since the clutch cover or air filter cover may have been replaced, never heard of a Super being set up as a Farm Boss too)

I figure I'll do real basic stuff. Nothing fancy. Certainly not messing with the transfers.


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## wolfgang4999 (Aug 29, 2016)

Brmorgan said:


> Hm, well this is about the fifth or sixth 041 I've worked on and all of them so far had that spacer bushing against the shoulder of the crank. This Super is using a rim-drive drum that I bought after the fact and the bushing was not part of that kit, it was already on the crank; the rest were all spur drives and they all needed the bushing too. My 045AV is the same way. So I dunno. I do agree though that there have been many minor variations on these saws over their 40-odd year lifespan so I doubt I've seen all of them
> 
> I think the other muffler/side cover style you're thinking of is the non-AV one like this one of mine:
> 
> ...


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## wolfgang4999 (Aug 29, 2016)

why arent the images and pics showing?????


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## wolfgang4999 (Aug 29, 2016)

probably a great article if the images would show


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## pioneerguy600 (Aug 29, 2016)

This is a very old thread made back before the site was hacked and a whole lot of the posted picts were lost during that ,hack.


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## Slarti (Sep 23, 2019)

Greetings, hope someone can help me with the Stihl 041AV Super and the Husqvarna 55 Rancher shown below (The Echo runs fine). 

Both the Stihl and Husky came with our new house. The previous owner used them to clear a lot for an addition to the house and left them behind when we bought the house. The Husky starts up cold but stalls when it warms up, will restart for a second then quits. The Stihl will not start at all. 

Are they worth fixing and, if so, where to begin? I use the Echo for felling and bucking but I was thinking of using the Stihl, in particular, for ripping some cedar boards as it's got a little bigger engine than the other two.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


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