# STIHL 029 Super Farm boss



## 1Alpha1 (Jun 7, 2005)

I was just recently given a STIHL 029 Super Farm Boss. It appears to be new and unused. It's in perfect condition. It has a 16" bar on it as well.

A female friend of my wife had her husband leave her for another gal about a yr. ago. He basically took some clothes and just disappeared.

Yesterday, I dropped my wife off at her friend's house, and when I stopped by later, to take them out to lunch, the friend asked me to follow her out to the garage. There, sitting on a shelf, was a STIHL chainsaw case. She asked that I remove it from the shelf for her. I did as she asked and she then said, "I want you to have this".

Lo and behold, inside was a 029 Super Farm Boss, a factory STIHL parts and service manual, extra new airfilter and sparkplug.

She refused to take any money for it, as I offered to buy it from her. 

Well....it looks to be a good size saw for homeowner use. I think it's 36cc or so, and as I mentioned earlier, it looks to be unused and it is in perfect condition.

What can you all tell me about this saw? Approx. how old is it? MSRP maybe when it was purchased? Is it a good dependable saw? Any and all info. will be apreciated.


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## fishhuntcutwood (Jun 7, 2005)

Sweet! As far as MSRP, dunno. The MS290 goes for something like $350 I think. If it's an 029 it's at least pre-2001, as that's when they went from 0XX numbering to XX0 numbering. Get ahold of Stihl, and they can sometimes tell you it's date of manufacture. The 290 is a 56.5 cc/3.75 hp saw, and it should be the same, as they're the same saw.

It's a homeowner, firewood saw, and in that role, I'll sing it's praises all day long. Do a search on here for "029" and wade through all the guys that don't like it because it's not a 372 or 460, and you'll see the guys like stihltech, who have a great deal of respect for the saw. It's a good saw with a good track record, and is probably Stihl's most popular saw. A buddy of mine has one, and loves it. Don't ask it to fall heavy timber, and it'll never let you down.

Jeff


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## Cut4fun (Jun 7, 2005)

Even sweeter deal then mine. Go homeowners saws go.


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## 1Alpha1 (Jun 7, 2005)

Thanks so far for the info.

I'd like to buy an extra chain or two for it. Anything "special" that need to know before I do? Should I get a STIHL chain or an after-market one?

I don't plan on cutting anything other than the ordinary, so will a "regular" chain be okay?

Thanks guys.....I appreciate the help!


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## fwf (Jun 7, 2005)

dano said:


> Thanks so far for the info.
> 
> I'd like to buy an extra chain or two for it. Anything "special" that need to know before I do? Should I get a STIHL chain or an after-market one?
> 
> ...



Go to a Stihl dealer and buy a Stihl chain -- they are some of the best around. You have several choices, so let the dealer explain the differences and choose the one that suits your needs. Some are built for maximum safety while others are designed for ultimate cutting power.


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## fishhuntcutwood (Jun 7, 2005)

I'll echo what fwf said. Many different types of chain, and any of them will do the job, though each has it's strenghts and weakenesses. I always use Stihl chain, as it is some of the best. I use RMF (full skip RM) for firewood and dirty cutting, and I use RSF (full skip RS) for timber. If you're new to saws then the RM2 might be a better option for you.

Jeff


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## Max (Jun 7, 2005)

You will like that saw. I had one for seven years and it was great! Never had a problem cutting with it. I opened the muffler on it and that made a noticable gain in throttle response and some extra power. Keep it clean and it should last a while.
Good luck with it.


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## 1Alpha1 (Jun 7, 2005)

Once again.....thanks to all for your help.

I'll get on down to my local STIHL dealer and hit him up for a couple of extra chains.

By "opening up a muffler"....do you mean removing it's innards? If so.....I could do that. I did that on my little Poulan and it did make a difference.


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## fishhuntcutwood (Jun 8, 2005)

dano said:


> By "opening up a muffler"....do you mean removing it's innards? If so.....I could do that. I did that on my little Poulan and it did make a difference.



Dano- do a search for "029 muffler mod" and you'll find a thread about just that. Pictures included.

Jeff


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## Lobo (Jun 8, 2005)

I may be wrong but I believe 029 Farm Boss models prior to the MS290 series had 4 hp and not 3.75 hp as on current models.


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## njforestfire (Jun 8, 2005)

I believe you are right Lobo...4 h.p. Mine was a 1995 model - 029 Super (Farm Boss) and I have no quams about that saw. It was my first 'serious' saw other than the old John Deere 045EV that I had. Good saw in my book. Used to run 20" bar with 30RC chain from Bailey's - never had any problems. Good luck Dano and be safe (don't forget about all the PPE you should be using when cutting).


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## Max (Jun 9, 2005)

Mine was new in 1997 and it was rated at 3.6 hp.
In 98 (I think) Stihl went to the "Intellecarb" on the 029 and then 290 series and the power went from 3.6 hp to 3.75 hp. I don't recall 4 hp on the 029/290 but I have been known to be wrong...

Bottom line, real durable/reliable saw. You will like it.


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## 1Alpha1 (Jun 9, 2005)

I was thinking that if I buy an extra chain or two, why not just a buy a little longer bar and chain?

Can I run a 20" bar w/o putting too much demand on the engine?


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## Cut4fun (Jun 9, 2005)

You might like this info link I found for you dano. http://www.stihlman.com/chainsaws/029.html


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## fishhuntcutwood (Jun 9, 2005)

dano said:


> Can I run a 20" bar w/o putting too much demand on the engine?



Depends on what you're cutting, but under most circumstances, I'd say yes. Out here you'll see mostly 20" bars on those saws, while most guys I think would like to see a 16" or 18" on there. I'd say if you aren't buried in oak or other hardwood all day long, the 20" would work fine.

Jeff


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## computeruser (Jun 9, 2005)

Ah, the choice of 16" versus 20"...I have 290s with 18" and 20" bars, and there really isn't any meaningful difference in performance until you get into the really hard stuff. Then what you need is simply something bigger than a 290, period. 

If you can use the 20" bar, then go ahead and get it. If you really don't need it, meaning if your work doesn't require 20" of bar to handle the size of what you regularly cut, I'd stick with the 16" bar you have already and run a more aggressive chain (think: Stihl RS rather than the RM2 safety chain that you probably already have), because that way you'll get nicer, faster cuts and not tax the engine more than is necessary. I run RS on my saws and find that it has been an amazing combination in all the deceased Green Ash trees that we have here in Michigan, even working pretty well in 30"+ trunks.

You have a good, durable saw. I have been pleased with mine, and a number of other folks - individuals and municipalities - have them and have been pleased with their performance. Recognize the limits of the saw - 40" oaks are not 029/290 territory - and you will be more than pleased. Take care of it and it will serve you well!


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## 1Alpha1 (Jun 9, 2005)

Once again....I thank you all. This forum is amazing and information rich. I'm learning more and more about saws....a little at a time, and you guys have been most helpful.

A tip of the ole hat to you all.............


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## buckwheat (Jun 10, 2005)

Before I got into serious firewood cutting I owned an 029 for about a year. For cutting less than 10 cords a year of typical hardwoods, it did a fine job. Mine had an 18" bar with .325 chain. In hindsight, I would probably drop to 16" - 3/8" to keep from bogging it down and should probably use a bigger saw for anything over that anyway. While a tad heavy by today's standards, I remember that it was very smooth running.


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## 1Alpha1 (Jun 11, 2005)

I stopped by my local STIHL dealer yesterday, to see if he had a 20" bar and some chain in stock.

Happy to say that he did. Got me a genuine STIHL bar and some STIHL chain. I paid $ 68.00 and change for the both. Thought that was a pretty fair price.


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## j_krebs (Dec 12, 2005)

*Stihl 029*

It's good to hear the 029 is a reputable saw. I picked up an MS 290 after Katrina and have only put one tank of fuel through it but it cuts very smooth. I've cut a couple of big pines and a small oak and it was like a hot knife cutting butter. I noticed earlier in the post there was a discussion about the horsepower and wanted to report that I don't know how the horsepower was rated for the 029 but in the US, today's line of Stihl saws are rated in Brake Horsepower (bhp). This may explain the discrepancy some have reported. If you take a look at the Stihl site for Canada you will notice the MS 290 is rated at 4.1 hp compared to 3.75 bhp on the USA site. Brake horsepower is understandably lower ...


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 13, 2005)

I see a bunch of responses to this thread not seeing the "Super" part. The 029S (S for SUPER) came out in 1997 had a larger bore (46mm verses 45mm), 4.1 bHP (up from 3.75 bHP of an 029) and is a very sweet saw. It included a new compensating carb with a PARTIAL POWER jet to reduce the chance of lean settings when not used at full power - like for limbing or small firewood work. 

The 029S is better than what is marketed today as an MS310 with a 47mm bore (to compensate for the restricted muffler...) but only 4.0 bHP...


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## SawTroll (Dec 13, 2005)

j_krebs said:


> .... If you take a look at the Stihl site for Canada you will notice the MS 290 is rated at 4.1 hp compared to 3.75 bhp on the USA site. Brake horsepower is understandably lower ...


Just to add to the confution;  
DLG/KWF has tested the European (made in Germany?) versions of the 029 Super in 1999, and later the MS290.
Both are reported to have 46 mm bore and 56.5 cc.
Max power output is reported as 3.0 kW/4.1 hp (should be 4.0 bhp).


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## simmech (Dec 13, 2005)

I have a 290 with an 18" bar. I just put a Stihl RS chain on it, and it flies through the red oak I've been cutting on. Takes about 1/2 the time to cut a truck load then it did with the RM2 chain it came with. I might try the RM chain though. I've read that some folks think it holds its edge better in dirty wood, and I'm cutting up firewood that the local landscaper is leaving for some of the homeowners in my development. I've cut about 10 pickup loads of wood with it, and it runs great.


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## dedmond (Sep 17, 2009)

*029 Super*

I have an old 029 Super. After I cut and turn off the saw it will not start again for like an hour. It runs great when i get it going and runs great untill i turn it off. Has any one had this problem or know what is wrong?


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## Saw Dr. (Sep 17, 2009)

dedmond said:


> I have an old 029 Super. After I cut and turn off the saw it will not start again for like an hour. It runs great when i get it going and runs great untill i turn it off. Has any one had this problem or know what is wrong?



Start by replacing the fuel line, if you already haven't. That is the problam on those most of the time. If it is cracked and you continue to run it, you'll sieze it up due to lean mixture.


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## GASoline71 (Sep 17, 2009)

You'll get more help if you start another thread of your own... this one is 4 years old...

I miss ol' Jeff (gutsfishwithwood)...

Gary


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## MotorSeven (Sep 17, 2009)

"miss ol' Jeff (gutsfishwithwood)..."

& Andy...


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## greengoblin (Sep 17, 2009)

and rich


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## dedmond (Sep 18, 2009)

*Thank you*

Thank you, I will replace the fuel line and see how it goes. Thanks for your Help. Will i be able to do this my self? I have have good machanical skills but i have not ever worked on This saw.


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## Saw Dr. (Sep 18, 2009)

dedmond said:


> Thank you, I will replace the fuel line and see how it goes. Thanks for your Help. Will i be able to do this my self? I have have good machanical skills but i have not ever worked on This saw.



Here is your tutorial. 

1. Drain all fuel out of the saw. 
2. Remove airbox lid
3. Blow out airbox area as much as possible with compressed air. Try not to blast the filter itself with high pressure air, as it will force dirt through the filter
4. Loosen two air filter screws and pull air filter off (screws stay in filter)
5. Hold throttle wide open, and pry throttle rod off trigger at the front 
6. Remove two 8mm nuts holding carb assy on
7. Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to gently press forward on the impulse line (lower right) and fuel line (lower left.) This is just to break the bond of the lines sticking to the brass nipple, and make the carb easier to remove.
8. Slide carburetor off the studs
9. Using forceps or a pick, fish the fuel filter out of the tank through the filler opening, and pull it off the line.
10. Using long, blunt screwdriver, push the fuel line grommet out through the top of the tank
11. Install new fuel line (it will be a tight fit)
12. Fish the end of new line out, and install fuel filter.
13. Re-assemble, and go cut wood.


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## Fish (Sep 18, 2009)

While you have the carb off, go through it, it is likely full of crud.


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## dedmond (Sep 18, 2009)

*Thank you*

Thank you for all your help that sounds like it will be easy.


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## Saw Dr. (Sep 18, 2009)

dedmond said:


> Thank you for all your help that sounds like it will be easy.



Just stop back to let us know how it worked out.


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## MCW (Sep 18, 2009)

dedmond said:


> I have an old 029 Super. After I cut and turn off the saw it will not start again for like an hour. It runs great when i get it going and runs great untill i turn it off. Has any one had this problem or know what is wrong?



I know a few people with 029's and although a good saw they do tend to have issues if not looked after and maintained (like most saws!).
Out of the 3 people I know well with 029's two have had the same problem.
All have been due to leaving old fuel in the saw and all have required full carby kits and new fuel lines which has fixed the problem.
The 3rd 029 is now a pig to start sometimes and I suspect it needs the same work. A couple of these were purchased back in 1991 though so have done pretty well considering.
Their owners don't exactly treat them too well either!


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## dedmond (Sep 20, 2009)

ok I have replaced the Fuel line. it went very good, I also cleand up the carb but it was not that dirty. anyway when i started up it ran good. after a few minutes i turn the saw off and some fuel was on the top of the tank. I thought that i had put in a bad line but upon furture investigation i found that the source of the fuel was the tank vent. Is there something that goes on the tank vent? so I have not had a chance to see if this has fixed the problem of not starting after running.


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## Evan (Sep 20, 2009)

wood size will slow the saw more then the 20" bar. 

the 20 and 16" will most likkly cut 12" wood bout exackly the same speed

but offcourse itl slow down cutn 20" wood while the 16" might be a hair faster cutn 20" wood past the bar tip


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## Fish (Sep 20, 2009)

dedmond said:


> ok I have replaced the Fuel line. it went very good, I also cleand up the carb but it was not that dirty. anyway when i started up it ran good. after a few minutes i turn the saw off and some fuel was on the top of the tank. I thought that i had put in a bad line but upon furture investigation i found that the source of the fuel was the tank vent. Is there something that goes on the tank vent? so I have not had a chance to see if this has fixed the problem of not starting after running.



Here is a pic of a tank vent on an old 025.
It is the same vent that is on the old 029, a piece of fuel line with 2 setscrews in it.


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## dedmond (Sep 20, 2009)

ok that must have come off i will go look for it. Thank you for all your help. will let you all know if the fuel line was the original problem.


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## dedmond (Sep 20, 2009)

I was not able to find the vent hose but i had a old gas line off of a weed wacker, I put a screw in the end of the line and put it on the vent tube. I cut up one tree and turned the saw off and it fired right back up cut up another tree and once again it fired right back up.. That was the problem! a Fuel line and filter LOL. fast and easy fix. Thank you B200Driver and Fish. You guys have very Helpful.

Thanks again.


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