# Biners and rope bridge



## futbalfantic (Dec 26, 2013)

I have read that extending your rope bridge will make hip thrusting with the VT much easier. Looking into doing this on my saddle (spartan) I have a rigging plate with 3 attachment points. I want to keep my primary bridge and was thinking about using biners to make my extended bridge deployable and not permanent. 

Thoughts?


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## kyle goddard (Dec 26, 2013)

I think i know what you're talking about. An extension to when you pull you line your HCP will advance its self. Am i right. 
Dont adjust your bridge. Get it to were you comfortable.
Rather than an extension with beaniers. Use some bee line. 24 to 30 inches is good. Eye to eye. With a beaniner on each end. 
Run form you're ring on bridge to connecting beaniner on HCP." Hitch climber pulley ".

Its what i use to do. Now im trying to figure out a way to do that with my hitchhiker. I have thought of a few.just haven't had time to make use of any.

Good luck. Be safe.


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## sgreanbeans (Dec 27, 2013)

I put a extra bridge on my cougar, just tied stopper knots and ran it thru the rings. Does not interfere with the old bridge at all, so I left it. Having it out, up and in front of you more is a big bonus for me, also keeps the gear more organized with the hitch away from everything. I use a DDM micro with the 3 holes on it, nice and smooth, with the big bridge I get a huge gain on rotating to the left or right. When I would roll over to one side on the old bridge, it would hit the saddle and get mixed up with other gear. Now it stays away from all of that.


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## futbalfantic (Dec 29, 2013)

Is there a probelm with using biners in this fashion? I'll try the hitch cord as an extension. Do you still attach the non working end of the climbing line or to your bridge?


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## Guran (Dec 29, 2013)

I use a adjustable floating prusik when hip thrusting. Works for me. Vid below how to set it up.


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## beastmaster (Dec 29, 2013)

Hip thrusting(air humping)is a labor intensive way to go up a rope. Practice footlocking, or if wearing gaffs get a foot ascender and hand ascender. It might take a minute to get it down, but well worth the effort. I use a i2i with a pulley and a Vt and its almost self tending, with maybe a little help now and then when I foot lock up it. 
I know that's not what your asking, but those other techniques to make air humping easier are like building a high performance pinto with a 4 banger. It might be faster then it was, but it'll never be fast.


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## futbalfantic (Dec 30, 2013)

Guran said:


> I use a adjustable floating prusik when hip thrusting. Works for me. Vid below how to set it up.



That is actually a way better idea then what I was going for. Thanks for the link. 

I climb for hobby/home work so trying to go low(er) cost


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## Guran (Dec 30, 2013)

beastmaster said:


> Hip thrusting(air humping)is a labor intensive way to go up a rope. Practice footlocking, or if wearing gaffs get a foot ascender and hand ascender. It might take a minute to get it down, but well worth the effort. I use a i2i with a pulley and a Vt and its almost self tending, with maybe a little help now and then when I foot lock up it.
> I know that's not what your asking, but those other techniques to make air humping easier are like building a high performance pinto with a 4 banger. It might be faster then it was, but it'll never be fast.


Beast is absolutely right. I do not use this as much for tree access, but it´s a good trick to have when moving around in the canopy. For me anyway.....


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## yoyoman (Jan 8, 2014)

Guran said:


> I use a adjustable floating prusik when hip thrusting. Works for me. Vid below how to set it up.


Another option to the floating prusik (if you don't have your pursik and biner) is to just tie off at the bridge with a clove hitch, in other words where at about 2:00 in this video the climb line is just passed thru the bridge ring, use a clove hitch here at the ring. The clove hitch will cinch from both directions and stay in place while your weight is on it.
Not quite as adjustable on the fly like the floating prusik but you can set the height of your friction hitch while standing on the ground then reset it at your work position simply by unweighting the clove hitch. If you don't want to thread the clove hitch thru your ring use a carabiner and tie the clove hitch mid-line style.


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## Str8six (Jan 9, 2014)

I used a split tail from my former blakes hitch setup to make an extension to get my hitch climber about 12 inches above head level. This is so much easier than trying to ascend and then tend slack. It was amazing to me that just adding a 12" extension made it so much nicer than it already was. Of course I use a foot ascender as well so I dont guess it matters but I find myself using more upper body than I should even with a foot ascender. I did this only I used my split tail to make my extension.


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## futbalfantic (Jan 13, 2014)

Tried the float prussik today. Worked so much better. Actually moved up the rope instead of inching up


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## Guran (Jan 14, 2014)

There you go! Hip thrusting, Elvis style?


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## Overwatch (Jan 14, 2014)

Guran said:


> I use a adjustable floating prusik when hip thrusting. Works for me. Vid below how to set it up.




Thanks for sharing that...looks also like a workaround for the problem of a termination knot fouling up the hitch on the hitchclimber pulley.


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