# Too many coals building up! Burning full blast



## Billy_Bob (Dec 9, 2009)

New problem for me...

It's 9 degrees and I'm, burning my woodstove full blast 24 hours a day. (My old house is not built for this cold of weather!)

The red hot coals are building up in the bottom of the woodstove to where I can't put as much wood in. But just the coals are not hot enough to keep the house warm, I need to have wood burning constantly.

Normally we have warmer temperatures during the day like 40's or 50's. So I would build a big fire in the morning, then let it die out and all those red coals would turn to ash, then I can scoop that out.

But how to get rid of the red hot coals so I can put more wood in? I do have a metal trash can with a metal lid.


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## mga (Dec 9, 2009)

Billy_Bob said:


> New problem for me...
> 
> It's 9 degrees and I'm, burning my woodstove full blast 24 hours a day. (My old house is not built for this cold of weather!)
> 
> ...



you answered your own question. just shovel them in.

after a while, coals and ashes can actually act like an insulator. clean it out real good and start fresh.


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## Haywire Haywood (Dec 9, 2009)

I don't know where your primary intake air comes in, but on my stove, it's down low. If I get a bed of coals that covers those holes, they seem to block the incoming air. I rake the coals away from the intake and they'll take off and burn down.

Ian


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## woodbooga (Dec 9, 2009)

Open her all the way up, rake your coals, and toss in some kindling and real fine splits.

The hot fire will both keep temps up and winnow down the coal build up.

Careful with your ash can if you have small children or animals in the vicinity of where you keep it. Esp. if you go a-scoopin'


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## slofr8 (Dec 9, 2009)

When this happens to me I'll put a couple of pieces of fast hot burning wood (I use Popple because I have a lot if it) and leave the intake vent wide open. The small amount of wood isn't enough to be dangerous but the hot fire reduces the coals to ash.
Dan.


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## Wood Scrounge (Dec 9, 2009)

I have this problem in my insert, here is how I remedy it:
during the day, when there is nothing but coals stir the coals so some of the black charcoal appears. throw in wood that does not coal very well throughout the day, I like very dry Tulip poplar or Sassafras, split fairly thin. this allows the coals to burn down but you still get a hot fire


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## Coldfront (Dec 9, 2009)

I always thought the coals were what puts out the most heat not the flame. Isn't a good bed of coals what are really after for max heat, and just add wood so you keep up a good bed of coals?


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## PLAYINWOOD (Dec 9, 2009)

3 choices that I know of,all mentioned
Burn softwood,less ash and coals
remove coals and ash
Lets fire sit all day with you exposing the coals to oxygen so they'll burn down.

I've done all three but I think you'll have to experiment because I believe all stoves have different personalities.


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## stint (Dec 9, 2009)

If you have a *very* secure ash bucket, and a *very* safe place to keep it inside your (drafty) old home, do not overlook it as a very substantial source of heat too


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## outdoorlivin247 (Dec 9, 2009)

The air intake on my Quadrafire is at the middle of the bottom front....If I get a large bed of coals I rake them to the front and load wood behind them until I get them burnt down...


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## blackdogon57 (Dec 9, 2009)

mga said:


> you answered your own question. just shovel them in.
> 
> after a while, coals and ashes can actually act like an insulator. clean it out real good and start fresh.



can't say it better than that. I leave my door open a crack and open damper all the way for a while and stir the coals every 10 minutes or so then clean out.


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## Dalmatian90 (Dec 9, 2009)

> If you have a *very* secure ash bucket, and a *very* safe place to keep it inside your (drafty) old home, do not overlook it as a very substantial source of heat too



Probably a poor idea -- think Carbon Monoxide.

Is it a problem with coals building up or ash / "clinkers" building up? (Clinkers to me is the hunks of ash that lump together). 

I just push the coals to the side and remove the ash, push the coals to the clean side and repeat. Gets *mighty* *warm* sometimes while I'm doing so!


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## Mntn Man (Dec 9, 2009)

I've been having the same problem. I have been taking bark and such and stiring the ash out, then leaving the ash door open for a while. When my furnace gets so full of coals, it smothers out and cools off. It isn't much of a problem until I want to load it for the night, then I can't get enough wood in it. I also found that I had a lot of the holes in the grate plugged with ash. Once I cleaned them out, it hasn't been so bad.


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## MJR (Dec 9, 2009)

This is funny, at lunch today I had the same issue. Hard maple will build a thick coal bed. I added some hemlock.


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## sly13 (Dec 9, 2009)

Good post. I had been having the same problem pretty cold and keeping it loaded up regular. I had been trying a couple of the remedies already good to know I'm on track.


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## Billy_Bob (Dec 10, 2009)

Thanks for the good ideas!

A friend came up with another idea which worked. I have a "burn barrel" out back and he suggest we dump the coals/ash in a can, then dump them in the burn barrel out back.

That worked, except it was too hot to scoop out the coals! So we used a regular long handled shovel for this. Then that shovel was *very* hot, so we were careful to place it back outside on some concrete where it would not start a fire.


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## getwood (Dec 10, 2009)

I get into that problem when the temperature gets 15 – 20 below. To try to reduce the coals I try to open the doors less often. I monitor the stove top temperature and supply enough air until the stove reaches and maintains 650° (I know this thermometer is not accurate). Two to three hours later when the temperature starts dropping, I start increasing the amount of air I let into the stove. I don’t open it to much because it just moves more air up the chimney. Once the stove top reaches 400°, I push the ashes back and rake the coals forward to re-start the process. I think you will find that you will use a lot less wood.

If you do not have a thermometer you can use a pot of boiling water until you get one. It may take a few burn cycles to get the cycle correct.


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## palmrose2 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Question Too many coals building up! Burning full blast*

I can't see your stove. To me a good stove is divided into 2 or 3 spaces. Starting at the bottom is a place for ash removal under a good set of grates. Then comes the actual burn pot and maybe a heat exchanger.

If your stove is like this, keep the ashes shaken down and increase the amount of air coming from below the grates. I use hard maple and iron wood mostly. They are very good coaling woods. If I want a slow burn with lots of coals I turn down the lower draft. If I'm looking for all the heat I can get, the lower draft is all the way open and maybe the lower door is even cracked a bit. The ashes MUST be shaken down and removed for air flow.

If you don't have grates and a lower door all I can say is try to get as much air as possible to the coals. You are losing out on a lot of heat removing the coals without burning them. Blacksmiths use coals exclusively. You can get them HOT with enough air.


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## Shine (Dec 10, 2009)

Billy_Bob said:


> Thanks for the good ideas!
> 
> A friend came up with another idea which worked. I have a "burn barrel" out back and he suggest we dump the coals/ash in a can, then dump them in the burn barrel out back.
> 
> That worked, except it was too hot to scoop out the coals! So we used a regular long handled shovel for this. Then that shovel was *very* hot, so we were careful to place it back outside on some concrete where it would not start a fire.



That's close to what I came up with. I sawed the handle off of a broken shovel about 6 inches off the steel, it a lot better than my little stove shovel.


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## howellhandmade (Dec 10, 2009)

palmrose2 said:


> SNIP
> If you don't have grates and a lower door all I can say is try to get as much air as possible to the coals. You are losing out on a lot of heat removing the coals without burning them. Blacksmiths use coals exclusively. You can get them HOT with enough air.



Actually, blacksmiths use coal, the mineral. Big difference.


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## Dok (Dec 10, 2009)

outdoorlivin247 said:


> The air intake on my Quadrafire is at the middle of the bottom front....If I get a large bed of coals I rake them to the front and load wood behind them until I get them burnt down...



That's exactly what I do. I've made it a habit to rake the coals to the front when I put more wood in. The stove is designed to pass air over the glass to keep it clean. That air next hits the coals and burns them up.
Dok


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## TJ-Bill (Dec 11, 2009)

I just scooped 1 1/2 bucket loads of red ho coals out of mine last night. I could barely put 2 pieces of wood in due to the coals.. Hopefully I'll be able to get some more heat and longer burn times now..


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## slowp (Dec 11, 2009)

Billy_Bob said:


> Thanks for the good ideas!
> 
> A friend came up with another idea which worked. I have a "burn barrel" out back and he suggest we dump the coals/ash in a can, then dump them in the burn barrel out back.
> 
> That worked, except it was too hot to scoop out the coals! So we used a regular long handled shovel for this. Then that shovel was *very* hot, so we were careful to place it back outside on some concrete where it would not start a fire.



That's how my dad used to clean out the stove. One of us would work the door to the house. 

I have the coal buildup and I just split my wood smaller. But I'm not trying to keep a fire going all night. This house gets too warm.


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## palmrose2 (Dec 12, 2009)

howellhandmade said:


> Actually, blacksmiths use coal, the mineral. Big difference.


 
Nope. They use coal when it's available. Do you think every Smith across this great land has/had coal available to them? Coals/charcoal have been used for eons.

A little quote from this website. http://primitivepoint.blogspot.com/2007/11/blacksmiths-fuel-charcoal.html

"During the three thousand year history of blacksmithing charcoal was the smiths fuel. It's only in the last 100 years that coal has almost totally replaced charcoal as the blacksmiths fuel of choice."

The coals in anybody's stove are basically charcoal and have the capacity to burn hotter than the initial gasses that come off raw wood. They just need O2.


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## Justsaws (Dec 12, 2009)

If the coals are big enough fill up an air-tight steel container, seal it up and start making your grilling fuel during the down season. They are also handy for metal working, ceramics, etc..

I do not have an this particular issue with coals but it would be convenient for me if I did. Charcoal is a good thing and it always seems wasteful to make a batch in the summer.


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## MarylandGuy (Dec 27, 2009)

I saved all the leftover charcoal last season. My hope was that I didn't have to buy store bought charcoal in the summer. 

It really didn't work. It would light, but would go out shortly. Eventually I started with store bought stuff and poured my homemade stuff over top of it. That worked pretty well.

I second the practice of raking the coals to the front and opening up the air a little. You can then load more wood behing the coals. The coals will burn up and the new wood will start to burn.


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## merc_man (Feb 14, 2016)

Dalmatian90 said:


> Probably a poor idea -- think Carbon Monoxide.
> 
> Is it a problem with coals building up or ash / "clinkers" building up? (Clinkers to me is the hunks of ash that lump together).
> 
> I just push the coals to the side and remove the ash, push the coals to the clean side and repeat. Gets *mighty* *warm* sometimes while I'm doing so!


Agree not good idea to use coals for extra heat. My stove has the ash drawer witch is great in fall spring when it can burn down to pretty much nothing before adding wood. i was using it up untill i had to start puttng a few coals down ther then about an hour later the two co detectors were going off. I figured the same thing the heat from coals would still be inside heating. 

Best to add small wood to burn up coals faster or just shovle out and put in metal pail and cover with metal plate so wind cant blow hot ambers all over.

Sorry for opening a old thread. lol.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 14, 2016)

Mere-Man, several have hit the nail squarely here in this old thread. More air flow is needed! Clear the coals that are restricting (choking) the stoves internal air flow by banking them, add two or three small splits, and open air controls fully. By removing the coals from the stove you are doing the same thing, adding unnecessary steps and loosing some good btu's.
When home, I no longer fill the stove completely, unless it is at night. Mornings there are a deep 5" bed of coals in various states left from the previous nights full stove at 50% air control. When home I burn a small hot fire, rather than loading completely and reducing air flow. This assumes burning seasoned wood, and that the coal build-up in not due to burning green wood.


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## merc_man (Feb 14, 2016)

I find that burning hickory leaves a lot of coals. I try to mix ash with it rather then straight hickory or i will have six inchs of coals in am when go to fill stove. 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk


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## blades (Feb 15, 2016)

howellhandmade said:


> Actually, blacksmiths use coal, the mineral. Big difference.


Yes true but they are pumping air from below to achieve the high heat


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## kingOFgEEEks (Feb 15, 2016)

Just re-enforcing what some others are saying - open up your air and put a small amount of fresh wood on top of the coals. They will reduce down, while the burning wood still throws heat. Keep adding small amounts of wood every 1-2 hours, until it burns down enough to fit a full load of fuel into your firebox. 

I have found that in general, filling the firebox 2-3 times a day creates less of a coaling problem vs. adding a little bit of wood every few hours. However, once you get the buildup of too many coals, you have to shift your strategy, or else it won't get better.


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## muddstopper (Feb 15, 2016)

I got grandkids that aint as old as this thread. LOL, When its cold and I am really throwing in the wood, I just push the extra coals to the back of the stove. Sound contrary to everyone else, but my stove will take 32in long wood and I usually cut at 20in. If I push all the coals to the back of the stove and leave just a small layer near the front, I can pack the stove full of wood and have heat for about 9 hrs with coals to restart the fire for about 12hrs. Clean out time comes and all there are is ashes. I usually scoop out a couple of shovel fulls of ashes every time I reload the stove. I use a metal bucket with a lid for the ashes just in case I get a few red hots.


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## flotek (Feb 15, 2016)

Throwing out hot coals ? That's crazy talk ! There's good heat in those coals the last thing I'd do is toss em out .give them plenty of air and moniter the stove temperature . Under air is best for this problem but a cracked feed door works too if you stir them up every twenty or so minutes


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## Marine5068 (Feb 17, 2016)

Dalmatian90 said:


> Probably a poor idea -- think Carbon Monoxide.
> 
> Is it a problem with coals building up or ash / "clinkers" building up? (Clinkers to me is the hunks of ash that lump together).
> 
> I just push the coals to the side and remove the ash, push the coals to the clean side and repeat. Gets *mighty* *warm* sometimes while I'm doing so!


Clinker is actually the wood burning on to and fusing with the steel or cast iron of any wood heating device.
Looks like it's welded onto the steel and sometimes has to be chiselled off.


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## Whitespider (Feb 17, 2016)

I solved the problem by replacing my box with one that burns on a grate... and feeds all the combustion air under that grate.
The coals can't burn if they ain't gettin' air... and if the air ain't comin' in underneath 'em, nothin' below the top layer of coals will get air.
A bed of coals in my box burn screamin' friggin' hot... the whole bed of coals, from the bottom up.
*


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## tla100 (Feb 18, 2016)

If I have that problem, usually when it is single digits, I leave the door open. Stir up the coals, and a couple hours later, they are greatly reduced. Plus it throws a ton of heat out. No worries of low chimney temps and creosote build up in my experience. I use a piece of expanded steel with a welded steel handle to scrap bottom and bring large coals to the top. My stove is in basement with concrete floor and no combustibles close by.


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## KARB2014 (Feb 18, 2016)

Whitespider said:


> I solved the problem by replacing my box with one that burns on a grate... and feeds all the combustion air under that grate.
> The coals can't burn if they ain't gettin' air... and if the air ain't comin' in underneath 'em, nothin' below the top layer of coals will get air.
> A bed of coals in my box burn screamin' friggin' hot... the whole bed of coals, from the bottom up.
> *


For the life of me I cannot understand the logic of no grate. The only thing I can think of is it give a longer burn time. I am a owner of a Tundra and after reading your thread on stovace I tried the grate. I made a grate out of .375 304 and I made it sit only 1 inch above the firebrick. I will say this I will never go back to burning with out the grate. No more fussing with cracking the door to burn down coals. I just load up with wood ever 8 to 12hrs (depending on outside conditions, sometimes less if it's 5degs or colder and windy) and I'm good to go. house stays within 2 degs of the thermostat setting. With out the grate I would produce so much coals once it got around 15 degs outside that I would lose 5 degs in the house while trying to burn the coal bed down, not to mention the constent messing with it. Now with the grate the whole coal bed with glow red and produce blue ghost flames when there is a call for heat. I now try to make a coal bed because it heats much more evenly with coals.


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## 066blaster (Feb 18, 2016)

I have this problem also when it's really cold. all the things mentioned help some but I have taken a spray bottle with water and put the coals put enough I could clean it out, and get back to heating my house. I always take my ash bucket outside immediately. I have also just put 1 bigger piece of wood right in the middle of the stove to give the coals on the sides a chance to burn down.


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## Whitespider (Feb 18, 2016)

KARB2014 said:


> *Now with the grate the whole coal bed with glow red and produce blue ghost flames when there is a call for heat. I now try to make a coal bed because it heats much more evenly with coals.*


I also get those "blue ghost flames"... definitely a screamin' hot bed of coals when that's goin' on.
I also intentionally build and maintain a deep coal bed in my (smoke-dragon) furnace when it gets cold out... like 8-10 inches deep, and it will hold the house at a steady temp for several hours with the air flowing up through them.



KARB2014 said:


> *For the life of me I cannot understand the logic of no grate. The only thing I can think of is it give a longer burn time.*


I'm convinced it is as simple as meeting EPA particulate emissions regulations... because there is no heating related benefit, actually a detriment when heat demand is high(er).
If you extend the length of the burn cycle, you spread the particulate emissions over more hours... which lowers the average per hour emissions.
However, if you extend the length of the burn cycle you also reduce the average per hour heat output... even if the total heat out over the entire burn cycle is a little bit more.
That's fine if you don't need the higher, continuous, and relatively even heat output throughout the entire burn cycle... but if you do... well... you do... it-is-what-it-is.

147,000 BTUs (25# of wood at 85% efficiency) over 12 hours is 12,250 BTUs per hour.
113,000 BTUs (25# of wood at 65% efficiency) over 8 hours is 14,125 BTUs per hour.
And although 2000 BTUs per hour is significant in itself... the fact is a box with a grate heats with a more steady and even output rate over the entire burn cycle, whereas the non-grate EPA-style box has greatly reduced heat output after the secondary combustion stage (although higher at the beginning). If the box can't keep up with heat demand during the last half of the burn cycle, you load it prematurely and the coal bed becomes excessive... not to mention your (supposed) efficiency advantage is greatly reduced when you do that, and you actually use more wood. The one year I used the EPA-style box to heat my home was the year I used the most wood to date... much of it was oak... and it was impossible to keep the house at a steady, even temperature.

I ain't sayin' they won't work for the proper applications... I'm sayin' not all application are proper for them.
There ain't a one-type-fits-all of anything... and there ain't no magic neither... if you need more heat, ya' need to burn more wood at a faster rate... it-is-what-it-is.
*


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## muddstopper (Feb 18, 2016)

My stove doesnt have a grate and I dont understand the problems with coals. I fill up my stove, it theres a lot of coals I just add what wood will fit and go about my business. I like coals, red hot heat, raking them out just to add more wood just seems like a waste of wood and good heat to me. What do I know, my house is about 78* inside right now.


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## flotek (Feb 18, 2016)

Well I own an exception to the rule because I have an EPA furnace That has a grate on the bottom ( the floor is mostly firebrick lined) that leads to the ash compartment below . ( it should be noted the regular caddy have this also ) This area has a drawer with a gasket and it's handled . Its a excellent design .if you click on my profile picture you can see what I'm talking about ..I rake the coals forward so they are positioned above my grate area then I grab my ash handle and open that drawer out about a 1/4 inch . This allows under air in and it turbocharges those coals like crazy . Works wonders on cooking down a coal bed or a fresh morning recharge of kindling . All EPA stoves should have this design instead of a recessed plug and cumbersome ash drawer .the coal bed holds a lot of heat if it gets air to it , shame on the man who removes them and throws them outside


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## Whitespider (Feb 18, 2016)

muddstopper said:


> *What do I know, my house is about 78* inside right now.*


*LOL*
If my house was 78° the wife would move out and tell me to call her when I figured out how shut off the sauna.
I don't think we've been over 72° all winter except once... and then it was only 73°.
When I got home from work tonight it was 70° in the house, just a few coals left from the 5:00 AM loading this morning... I tossed in a half dozen splits... now it's 71°. Likely won't add anymore until morning... holy crap, it's like spring time out side tonight... 37°.
*


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## muddstopper (Feb 18, 2016)

Well I have to admit i made a mistake, I went and looked at the thermostat and its only 76* Trying to let the fire die out, but those durn coals just wont let it cool down.


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## KARB2014 (Feb 19, 2016)

muddstopper said:


> My stove doesnt have a grate and I dont understand the problems with coals. I fill up my stove, it theres a lot of coals I just add what wood will fit and go about my business. I like coals, red hot heat, raking them out just to add more wood just seems like a waste of wood and good heat to me. What do I know, my house is about 78* inside right now.


The problem is the entire firebox will fill will coals that if you don't stir them and crack the door they will turn into charcoal. They don't produce heat until there is extra air. I don't like having to **** around with it non stop in the evenings to burn them down, also that causes a drastic temperature swing. With the grate it's load and go, every couple of days I lift the grate ( with coals, I don't have to let the firebox go cold.) scrap the ashes into the ash pan, takes 2 mins tops, and I'm on my way.


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## Whitespider (Feb 19, 2016)

KARB2014 said:


> *I don't like having to **** around with it non stop in the evenings to burn them down, also that causes a drastic temperature swing.
> With the grate it's load and go, every couple of days I lift the grate... scrap the ashes...2 mins tops...*


I couldn't agree more...

Those were (are, I still use the EPA box in the shop) the two biggest of my complaints... temperature swings and the amount of time screwing around with it. My current box in the house has a large ash drawer, I don't even need to open the loading door to dump them... and I can do it when the fire is burning full tilt. Twice a day (sometimes three if it's cold) I open the loading door, toss in the wood, slam the door... done‼ Couple times a week (sometimes three if it's cold) I pull the ash drawer, dump it in the metal trash can (with tight lid), and slide the drawer back in... done‼ Once a month or so I take the trash can out and dump it. If I spend 15 minutes a week total to run and maintain the box I'd be surprised...

It's where your priorities are I guess...
But I've always said, makin' firewood should be the hard part, burnin' it should be the easy part.
*


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## muddstopper (Feb 19, 2016)

I dont even know what the manufacture of my stove is. I actually suspect its home made by someone with really good fabrication skills. I dont have a grate, and the problem with installing one is the durn door is just to small. If I put a grate inside, then I wouldnt be able to put any wood in it. The draft bells, I call them bells because thats what they look like, are made of pipe end caps. drilled and treaded to screw on a bolt. Behind the bells are a series of small holes. All this is setting a little high above the stove floor. Anyways, when I fill my stove, I always stuff it as full as possible. There are always a bunch of ashes next to the door. I take the shovel and will remove a few scoops of the ashes which leaves a depression between the top of the coals and the stove bottom. I'll take the shovel and spread the coals out flat and pile in the wood. If I feel I have excess coals, I just push them to the back of the stove with the wood as I add it. My stove pulls air pretty well. If I am down to just one or two glowing coals, I can pull them to the front of the stove and just start piling wood on them, screw the bells out a couple of turns and go back in about an hour and screw the bells back in and the fire will be roaring. A very easy stove to build a fire in, or maybe I am just good at building a fire. Nah, cant be it, my wife builds most of the fires around here. She likes her heat. Typing this while I sit in my chair in a pair of shorts, and no shirt. Heck I aint even put my shoes on yet.


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## sledge&wedge (Feb 19, 2016)

muddstopper said:


> I dont even know what the manufacture of my stove is. I actually suspect its home made by someone with really good fabrication skills. I dont have a grate, and the problem with installing one is the durn door is just to small. If I put a grate inside, then I wouldnt be able to put any wood in it. The draft bells, I call them bells because thats what they look like, are made of pipe end caps. drilled and treaded to screw on a bolt. Behind the bells are a series of small holes. All this is setting a little high above the stove floor. Anyways, when I fill my stove, I always stuff it as full as possible. There are always a bunch of ashes next to the door. I take the shovel and will remove a few scoops of the ashes which leaves a depression between the top of the coals and the stove bottom. I'll take the shovel and spread the coals out flat and pile in the wood. *If I feel I have excess coals, I just push them to the back of the stove with the wood as I add it. *My stove pulls air pretty well. If I am down to just one or two glowing coals, I can pull them to the front of the stove and just start piling wood on them, screw the bells out a couple of turns and go back in about an hour and screw the bells back in and the fire will be roaring. A very easy stove to build a fire in, or maybe I am just good at building a fire. Nah, cant be it, my wife builds most of the fires around here. She likes her heat. Typing this while I sit in my chair in a pair of shorts, and no shirt. Heck I aint even put my shoes on yet.



Just my 2 cents here... If you are trying to get rid of the excess coals, your best bet would be to move them to whatever end of the stove your air feeds in from. For example the inlet on my stove is front and center, at the bottom of the firebox. I line my extra coals right down the middle of the stove from front to back with a shovel and then use a few splits to make a tunnel of sorts over top of the coals. That forces the super-heated air down the middle of my fresh stack of fuel and makes combustion start a lot faster. That seems to work best for me. Might be worth a try if you are looking for a way to get rid of some extra coals easily without adjusting intake air or cracking the door.


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