# Anybody try to build a super splitter



## harrybeaver (Oct 8, 2009)

I have a hydraulic splitter, for what I paid I could not build one cheaper. I am looking at the super split and think it would be a nice project to build one. Have any of you done this? My biggest question is how the rack and pinion engage and disengage?


----------



## wdchuck (Oct 8, 2009)

http://thewoodwolf.com/


This guy is less expensive than SS.


----------



## Haywire Haywood (Oct 8, 2009)

Every time I watch that video, I think, "What a crappy old slow hydraulic splitter." LOL

Ian


----------



## InTheFlow (Oct 8, 2009)

wdchuck said:


> http://thewoodwolf.com/
> 
> 
> This guy is less expensive than SS.



Wow, that thing is hella fast!


----------



## K2Orion (Oct 8, 2009)

Definitely interested in this thing. I'd love to see a homebuilt version. I'd rather build 1 of these than a hydro splitter.


----------



## STLfirewood (Oct 8, 2009)

K2 if you want to see one work let me know I have one.

Scott


----------



## InTheFlow (Oct 8, 2009)

Are you glad you bought it Scott?


----------



## STLfirewood (Oct 8, 2009)

Very glad it's the best bang for te buck splitter out there. Fast cheap to operate and very reliable. If something happened to this one I would buy another tomorrow.

Scott


----------



## harrybeaver (Oct 8, 2009)

I think these would be more difficult to build but cheaper than a hydraulic splitter. Anyone in connecticut that would let me see theirs and get some measurements?


----------



## RVALUE (Oct 8, 2009)

I p_*lan*_ on building one, but haven't found the parts, yet..


----------



## harrybeaver (Oct 8, 2009)

You can get the rack and pinion from mcmaster carr for about $150, for flyweights I will use 45# dumbells the rest will be machined from scrap in my spare time. I think I could build one for ~$300, then the cost of the motor.


----------



## RVALUE (Oct 8, 2009)

Thanks, I'd be most interested in your progress. What is the application of the r/p, i may know where one is..


----------



## STLfirewood (Oct 8, 2009)

For flywheels you could always use bandsaw wheels. Maybe even a flywheel off a big truck. You know they are true and already drilled in the center.

Scott


----------



## qweesdraw (Oct 9, 2009)

How about using a rear end off a garden tractor with wheel weights,belts would ride on the inside of rim and would be balanced.Bearings/bushings are already there? 
You can find Craftsman /MTD's with blown engines on craigslist for about $100
A cam to release the pinion at the end of it's travel (somehow),springs to return.
Just a thought!
Mark


----------



## Mike Van (Oct 9, 2009)

STLfirewood said:


> For flywheels you could always use bandsaw wheels. Maybe even a flywheel off a big truck. You know they are true and already drilled in the center.
> 
> Scott



Beware of cast bandsaw wheels [or anything else cast] I lost a 24 incher on my bandmill years ago, without good guards, well........ Most cast bandwheels and such have a max. rpm. On the 24" Browning sheaves I use now it's about 900 rpm.


----------



## harrybeaver (Oct 9, 2009)

RVALUE said:


> Thanks, I'd be most interested in your progress. What is the application of the r/p, i may know where one is..



Its what moves the push plate. I am not sure what size and pitch they use, really need to see one in person in order to reverse engineer this thing.


----------



## RVALUE (Oct 9, 2009)

I mean what is the normal application that M/Carr's rack applies to? They may have a common use, therefore a good place to look for a used on

All these parts are usually fairly universal.


----------



## giXXer (Oct 10, 2009)

There was a guy about a year ago on this site building a copy of the super splitter. He even had a couple of videos of the trial and error portion of his build. I just spent a little time looking, but couldn't find it. I have been looking for a used super splitter for a few years and CANNOT find one. It appears that guys that buy them never want to sell them. I have found 2 in my area that are still in use, not for sale, and both are over 15 years old. I think that speaks volumes of the quality and efficiency of the super splitter. I wish I had an extra 3 grand laying around.


----------



## nhlogga (Oct 12, 2009)

harrybeaver said:


> You can get the rack and pinion from mcmaster carr for about $150, for flyweights I will use 45# dumbells the rest will be machined from scrap in my spare time. I think I could build one for ~$300, then the cost of the motor.



The flywheels on the mid size ss weigh 75 pounds i believe. you may want to use something around that weight imo.


----------



## nhlogga (Oct 12, 2009)

harrybeaver said:


> I have a hydraulic splitter, for what I paid I could not build one cheaper. I am looking at the super split and think it would be a nice project to build one. Have any of you done this? My biggest question is how the rack and pinion engage and disengage?



to engage the rack and pinoin there is what i call a control. i don't have a pic, but i'll try to describe it. starting at the handle going down you have rod (threaded rod works well) that goes to the "control" which is a round of steel tubing with a pin gonig thru it. this makes a pivot. welded to the round tubing are a couple of gussets. the gussets hold roller bearings. you pull on the handle, the handle pulls the rod, the rod pulls the "control", the control pushes down on the rack gear engaging the rack and pinion. the bearings roll against the top of the rack. the rack also has a bevel on the back end of it as a type of automatic return. if the bevel isn't right it won't disengage properly. then you just push down on the handle. to pull the rack back, there is a spring that goes under one side of the ram around the back side of the frame to the other side of the ram. i believe ss has a basic schematic on their web site. been around ss my whole life. hope this was a bit of help. good luck.


----------



## cjnspecial (Oct 12, 2009)

This guy (Django) built a heck of a flywheel splitter. He hasn't been around for quite a while though, it would have been nice to have a video of it in action. 

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=6668&page=3

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=8590


----------



## milkie62 (Oct 12, 2009)

How would it go through a piece of stringy crotchy elm ?


----------



## giXXer (Oct 13, 2009)

cjnspecial said:


> This guy (Django) built a heck of a flywheel splitter. He hasn't been around for quite a while though, it would have been nice to have a video of it in action.
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=6668&page=3
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=8590



AHHHH, that's why I couldn't find the videos, there aren't any. I guess it was the posts and the pics I remember. It was quite some time ago that I saw the thread. Still pretty interesting though. A project like that would be a little over my head with all of the fab work combined with the engineering as well.


----------



## giXXer (Oct 13, 2009)

milkie62 said:


> How would it go through a piece of stringy crotchy elm ?



If it doesn't go through the wood on the first pop the ram automatically retracts via the spring, the flywheels keep spinning and you just hit the lever again for a second pop. You will rarely find a chunk of wood that takes two cycles to go through. There are quite a few videos of the super splitter in action on youtube.


----------



## Sierra99 (Dec 30, 2009)

Thinkin on gettin one of these SS units, just curious how many teeth are on the pinion gear? And what diameter are the axle and flywheels? 

I was running some numbers, and if it used a 1.5-inch diameter, 12 tooth pinion (8 pitch w/ 20 degree pressure angle), then the rack would move 24 inches in 1/6 of a second with the wheels flyin at 300 rpm. Of course, it would take a little while longer as it slows during the split. But if the teeth were cut into a 1-1/4 shaft, with a pitch diameter of 1" and say 8 teeth, then it would take a slow 1/4 of a second to move the rack out.

So if you cycle the thing without any wood on it, does the ram move out to the wedge in just 1/6 of a second, or is it 1/4 of a second? either one seems darn fast to me. To slow it down would require a secondary jack shaft with a chain connecting it to the flywheel shaft.


----------



## Cmccul8146 (Feb 16, 2010)

*Not finished ,but splits great*

Got my flywheel splitter running a few weeks ago, but not quite finished. Still need to make the guards for the flywheels & get it painted. Since I'll be the only one using it I'm not in any rush to get the guards made. I'm having too much fun splitting with it to worry about guards right now. Read lots of comments on here about engine hp, flywheel speed & weight & have come to the conclusion that most of it is way off base. I am using an old 3 hp motor off an Ariens tiller I bought in 1972. I made my flywheels from A36 steel plate & they weigh 102 lbs each. Haven't had a tach on it, but am running engine at half throttle for a flywheel speed of 150- 160 rpm. Haven't seen anything it would not split yet, ( red oak, white oak, & some maple) but if I do, I'll speed up the engine speed to get more flywheel rpm . Put a stopwatch on it and full cycle only takes 1.8 to 2.1 seconds.


----------



## svon89 (Feb 16, 2010)

Do you have any pictures? I would like to see how you made it.


----------



## injun joe (Feb 16, 2010)

quick question i noticed all the wood split was straight grained it was fiskars work but would it work on a knotty piece of wood?? but i have to admit that is a wickedly awesome machine wouldnt mind having one for myself.


----------



## Cmccul8146 (Feb 16, 2010)

*Not finished, but splits great*

Svon89, I don't have any pics yet, but will try to get some within the next few days & put them on here. Remember, it's not painted & doesn't have the guards on yet, & with the 38 year old motor it looks rather crude. Also still need to make a hitch for it. 

Injun Joe, most of the wood I've split has been clear, straight grained oak & maple, but have split a couple of crotch pieces & several with large knots. No problem whatsoever. If it didn't split on the 1st hit, I'd manually disengage the rack & pinion ,let flywheels build momentum again & engage once more. So far I haven't had to make more than 2 strokes on any piece.


----------



## cjnspecial (Feb 16, 2010)

Cmccul8146 said:


> Svon89, I don't have any pics yet, but will try to get some within the next few days & put them on here. Remember, it's not painted & doesn't have the guards on yet, & with the 38 year old motor it looks rather crude. Also still need to make a hitch for it.
> 
> Injun Joe, most of the wood I've split has been clear, straight grained oak & maple, but have split a couple of crotch pieces & several with large knots. No problem whatsoever. If it didn't split on the 1st hit, I'd manually disengage the rack & pinion ,let flywheels build momentum again & engage once more. So far I haven't had to make more than 2 strokes on any piece.



Any details you would be willing to share on the materials needed and the fab work involved? Was it a lot of machine work?


----------



## angelo c (Feb 16, 2010)

harrybeaver said:


> I have a hydraulic splitter, for what I paid I could not build one cheaper. I am looking at the super split and think it would be a nice project to build one. Have any of you done this? My biggest question is how the rack and pinion engage and disengage?



Harry, 
I have one in NJ you can reverse engineer anytime you want. Its not that close but it's here. I love the thing. having said that there would be a few changes I would make if I was starting from scratch. I would like a bigger I beam for support and a bit taller. Oh and you will need a second set of hands, it's way to darn fast to keep up with by yourself. I went from splitting by hand to this lightning fast thing and I miss my "splitting time". Wish I could find more wood. Oh and I can move the thing around the yard by hand. and load it into the back of my truck bed by hand too. awesome machine.


----------



## Cmccul8146 (Feb 20, 2010)

*Splitter Pics*

Got my flywheel splitter painted today & am going to try to attach a few pics.Still need to make my flywheel guards to be finished, but no hurry on getting them made.


----------



## Ductape (Feb 21, 2010)

Cmccul8146 said:


> Got my flywheel splitter painted today & am going to try to attach a few pics.Still need to make my flywheel guards to be finished, but no hurry on getting them made.





What did you use for your rack and pinion?


----------



## dh1984 (Feb 21, 2010)

damn that thing is busting the wood like butter i got to get me on of them. but one question i got is how does it work is it hydro or something else


----------



## dh1984 (Feb 21, 2010)

and oh does anyone got any plans on building one like this? i like to find some plans to build me one so if anyone got any plans please send them my way please


----------



## Cmccul8146 (Feb 21, 2010)

*One more pic*

OOPS!!!!! Didn't mean to post the same pic 2 times. Here's another one.


----------



## InTheFlow (Feb 21, 2010)

Nice Job CM! Looking good!


----------



## grapplermi (Feb 21, 2010)

Very nice CM! I want to copy your copy.


----------



## dave_dj1 (Feb 21, 2010)

good job on the homebrew build. I love to see things that people built from scratch and saved a ton of $$$$$
what did you use for a rack & pinion?


----------



## boda65 (Feb 21, 2010)

Cmccul8146 said:


> Got my flywheel splitter painted today & am going to try to attach a few pics.Still need to make my flywheel guards to be finished, but no hurry on getting them made.



Good Job, you got me rethinking what kind of splitter I want. I'm thinking this could be cheaper to build than hydraulic?? Nice fab work, rep sent.


----------



## brnchbrkr (Feb 21, 2010)

*pics*



Cmccul8146 said:


> Got my flywheel splitter painted today & am going to try to attach a few pics.Still need to make my flywheel guards to be finished, but no hurry on getting them made.


----------



## bulldoglover (Feb 21, 2010)

wdchuck said:


> http://thewoodwolf.com/
> 
> 
> This guy is less expensive than SS.



This guy is just a few towns over from me, might have to take a trip over and test on out. I'll have to bring some gnarly knotty wood to see how it does.


----------



## Cmccul8146 (Feb 22, 2010)

*woodwolf*

The wood wolf is probably a good splitter, but I dislike the work table on their splitter. Their table is mounted at the bottom of the beam rather than flush with the top of it. With my splitter & the SS, you don't have to worry about making sure the log is balanced on the center of the beam, & don't have to put your other hand anywhere near the ram or wedge when engaging the gears. Also when the log splits, it does not fall down & need to be picked up to place on beam for a 2nd split. With the flush mounted table, just slide the log back over & you're ready to go.


----------



## tnxm (Feb 22, 2010)

Looks awesome great Job. Compared to a hydro splitter would you say more difficult or less to build? And how much to build me one  haha


----------



## tmroper (Feb 25, 2010)

I would like to build one of these and understand the principle behind except for how the rack and pinion engages and disengages.

For those of you that have built one. a few questions. 

1. the wheels did you make them out of one solid piece of a36 or 2?

2. What are the diameters of the wheels and thickness? Of both inside and outide where the thickness changes. I know you said yours weigh 105 lbs. I was thinking about having the wheel and rim cut out water jet and then truing them on a shaft and welding them up.

3. Which rack & pinion gears did you buy?

4. Did you use square tubing or solid square stock for the ram?

5. What size I beam did you use?

6. What diameter of shaft did you use that goes through both wheels? 

7. Did you use a keyway on the shaft if so what size it seems this part would get a lot of impact and shear easy.

Thanks I could really use a splitter and was thinking of building a hydraulic but this looks like it is pretty simple.


----------



## vinced (Feb 25, 2010)

I'd like to know what rack and pinion you used. Also what shaft size is the pinion and the flywheels mounted on?? I've never seen a Super Split or any other splitter of this type in my area. If I could find one I could measure those parts.
Vince


----------



## nhlogga (Feb 28, 2010)

Cmccul8146 said:


> The wood wolf is probably a good splitter, but I dislike the work table on their splitter. Their table is mounted at the bottom of the beam rather than flush with the top of it. With my splitter & the SS, you don't have to worry about making sure the log is balanced on the center of the beam, & don't have to put your other hand anywhere near the ram or wedge when engaging the gears. Also when the log splits, it does not fall down & need to be picked up to place on beam for a 2nd split. With the flush mounted table, just slide the log back over & you're ready to go.





I agee. the first SS ever made had the trays mounted on the bottom of the beam. PITA imo. Very nicely built splitter Imust say. keep up the good work and enjoy.


----------



## farmermike (Feb 28, 2010)

This thing really has peaked my interest. What model # is the rack and pinion? I'd like to build one myself. It looks so simple and fast. I know I can fabricate one but need the rack and pinion to get it started. Do you think heavier flywheels would make it more powerful. I was thinking fly wheels off of an old square baler I've got setting in the grove. Probably is overkill. How about the wedge height? Would higher be better? I split alot of big rounds and think a taller wedge would work better. Keep us posted. Enquirering minds want to know! Thanks for the help.


----------



## Sierra99 (Mar 2, 2010)

From photos I'd estimate the standard SS uses 18 in diameter flywheels 1.5 in thick (w/ lightening holes and reduced hub thickness). Weighing 72 lbs and spinning 300 rpm (12:1 pulley diameter ratio for the Vbelt with motor running 3600 rpm) gives about 1010 joules of stored energy for the pair of flywheels. Energy goes up as RPM squared, or diameter sqaured, all else being the same. 

Assuming a baler flywheel is 24-in diam with most of its mass in the outermost 4 inches, and weighs 120 lbs, you'd only need one spinning at 225 RPM to get 1000 joules stored energy.

The spindle is probably 1-3/8 inch diameter. You can get a 24" rack for $60 (page 1056 at www.mcmaster.com) for 20 degree pressure angle, 8 pitch. The main problem is the spur gears come with a small borehole, so you need to bore out the gear then weld it to the spindle. The 2 in pitch diameter gear ($42) might work, and give a rack speed of 23.5 inch/sec using that baler flywheel at 225 rpm. Should work great.


----------



## Cmccul8146 (Mar 2, 2010)

Sierra, please don't take this as criticism, but advice from someone who's actually built a flywheel splitter that works perfectly. The 24" rack isn't nearly long enough. My Martin RA6 x 4 was cut to 42inches in order to have a 25 inch stroke. Remember, the pinion is well beyond the end of the rack in the retracted position. My Martin gear rack is 1 inch thick x 1 1/2 inches wide. SS uses a rack that is 1 inch thick x 2 inches wide. Motion Industries ,Inc. sells the Martin products. You'd need at least a 2.500 pitch dia. pinion gear ( 2.833 max OD) to bore for a 1 3/8 shaft W/ 1/4 keyway. If you weld the pinion to the shaft, you won't be able to disassamble if necessary without cutting the shaft & making a new one. SS also uses CAST flywheels that are 2 inches thick. Also not a good idea to run with just one flywheel . There's the BALANCE factor involved that requires 2 flywheels. My flywheels weigh 102 lbs. each, with the hub, and are rotating at 150- 160 rpm with just a 3 hp motor. ( running half throttle) That's 19.635 inches of travel per sec. no load speed. So far I haven't needed to ,but could speed up motor a bit if I need more splitting force. Hope this info is of some help. 

Farmermike, I hope this answers some of your questions, too. 

Claude


----------



## Sierra99 (Mar 3, 2010)

Claude, you make excellent points. And you've actually made one whereas I'm just arm waving. A 24-in rack would work with an extension on to the pusher end, just not as pretty! Two flywheels do make spindle torsion symmetrical, needed for a small spindle diameter. 

I haven't done the torsion calcs but a single flywheel would likely work with a larger spindle diameter, 1.75 or 2.0-in. I'm just throwing out a possible design if a fellow finds a biggish flywheel at the local farm auction. 

You still have to fit the pinion to the spindle. You could turn the spindle end down to the pinion bore plus 0.002", press the pinion on, then neatly weld it all around. Same for a second spindle half on the other side of he pinion. You'd want to pre-heat/post-heat and weld short beads to minimize distortion. Low speed machinery can handle some runout without harm. 

This two piece spindle approach is for reducing pitch diameter to 2-in for slowing down the action and increasing mechanical advantage. But your successful build with a 2.5" pinion proves maybe that's not so critical afterall. And a larger flywheel will have plenty of energy even at lower RPM, so the larger pinion would work fine.


----------



## Cmccul8146 (Mar 25, 2010)

*Change to splitter*

Going to make a minor change to my splitter. It works quite well as it is ,especially on dead trees, but I'm going to take farmermike's advice & make a taller wedge. Green wood splits good too, but on a couple of the larger pieces it doesn't always bust completely it two. Have had to either flip it over & make a 2nd split to halve them, or pull them apart by hand, then the smaller pieces are no problem. Wedge is now only 6 inches high and am going to grind the welds off & make a new one at least 10 or maybe even 12 inches tall. Split some knotty ,twisted & crotch pieces of red oak today & had to hit them 2 times running engine at half throttle. One day when I have some more of the knotty or crotch pieces, I'm going to rev up to 3/4 throttle & see how that does. So far the wedge height is the only change I've seen that I would want to make. Now I'm thinking of building a much smaller electric version as a kindling splitter. Won't need real heavy flywheels for it, nor as fast flywheel rpm to split the slabs off my bandsaw mill to get some easy kindling strips.


----------



## Twigger (Mar 27, 2010)

*Home built super split*

Hi everyone ,I have been looking at posts by Cmccul8146 regarding the log splitter based on the mechanical principle .I am building one myself but Im a bit concerned that the pinion I am using [4dp .9teeth]is wrong , the largest size I feel that the shaft hole can be enlarged to is about an inch,I am thinking that a 1 inch shaft is not going to be strong enough when the ram gets the shock load splitting the log,If I go to a bigger pinion gear the speed of the travel will increase accordingly, how many teeth are on a super splitter or a wood wolf pinion? Thank you in anticipation . Twigger,UK


----------



## Cmccul8146 (Mar 28, 2010)

*pinion gear*

Twigger, you said that you are planning to use a 4dp, 9tooth gear for your pinion but can only bore for a 1 inch shaft max. What is the pitch diameter of your gear? I used a Martin S615 spur gear, 6dp, 15 tooth which has a pitch diameter of 2.500 inches. The overall OD of this gear is 2.833 inches. By using a 1/4" keyway, I pushed the bore to 1 3/8 , which is 1/8 over reccommended max bore. Hub dia. on this gear is 2 inches, so that leaves plenty of wall thickness for set screws. My pinion w/ pitch diameter of 2.500 moves ram at 7.854 inches per revolution. Only takes about 1 second ( 2 3/4 revolutions ) for full travel @ 150 rpm. You can calculate ram travel by multiplying pinion PD x pi , regardless of what DP gears you use.


----------



## Twigger (Mar 28, 2010)

*Home made super splitter*

Hi Cmccu 8146
Thanks for your prompt reply, Im going to have a word with my engineer ,I think going to a slightly larger gear [with a few more teeth on it] will be a better proposition, rather than risk the main pinion shaft twisting itself to death ! Have you used a harder[more torque resistant] shaft ie something like a chrome vanadium material? What mechanism kicks out the rack from engagement when the ram hits that chunk of knotty willow. Ive looked long and hard at the Wood Wolf photos [which are very good]but they are hardly going to show every last nut and bolt [shame !] Thanks for any information I dont think anyone over here in the UK is trying to achieve the same as I am.All the best Twigger.


----------



## Cmccul8146 (Mar 28, 2010)

Twigger, whenever you hit a twisted, knotty log that doesn't split & instead stalls the ram, you manually disengage the gears. That's the purpose of using a centrifugal clutch to turn the flywheels. If it stalls, the clutch slips so you don't damage your gears. The return springs pull the ram back, wait a few seconds for flywheels to build momentum and hit it again. So far I havent had to hit anything more than twice. As far as the pinion shaft material, I used 1045 cold rolled steel. This is the same material most hydraulic cylinder rods are made from, only not chrome plated. You'll slip the clutch before you twist the shaft, but I'd surely use at least a 1 3/8 inch shaft. Good luck with your build. Claude


----------



## dodek (Jan 31, 2011)

Hello i am writting from poland and i want to built a copy of super split .
I have just few infos and fotos from net and us patent site Log splitter with gear rack drive and wolf site - fotos 

I want to use 2 flywheel from old traktor - weight ~160 each X 2 
- electic engine 5.5kw/ 500volt , 1400rmp/min 
- and gear rack -50 x 50 mm lenght 1500 mm (maybe shorter) module 5
It will be heavy and powerfull to split knoty pine wood

But now i haven't info about trigger mechanism in ori super split (how it realy works and starts - with not crush modes )
albo i don't how works trigger mechanism and how start automatic return mechanism ???

Does someone help me?? -

.... I thing yes


----------



## dodek (Jan 31, 2011)

*spliter*

is that forum nazist or somthing else ???? -so you cut all my writes ????????????


----------



## showrguy (Jan 31, 2011)

dodek said:


> is that forum nazist or somthing else ???? -so you cut all my writes ????????????


 
were you someone else in a previous life ??


----------



## PLAYINWOOD (Jan 31, 2011)

nhlogga said:


> I agee. the first SS ever made had the trays mounted on the bottom of the beam. PITA imo. Very nicely built splitter Imust say. keep up the good work and enjoy.


 
I just moved mine back down. i find at speed, a knot,knub, bump, branch stub etc would hit that tray and use it as a ramp/launching pad driving the whole up...towards my head.I've had close calls. 
I think the beam is 3/4 inches and this seems to give me enough clearance this doesn't happen as much.


----------



## dodek (Jan 31, 2011)

Hello i am from poland and i want to built something like supperspliter
I just had some infos and fotos from us patent site www .freepatentsonline.com/4116251 .pdf and net
I have some parts - gear rack 50x50mm lenght 1500 mm (maybe it will be shorter) , module 5
- 2 flywheels from old tractor - 160 lbs each x2 = 160 kg
- elektric engine 5.5kw/500volt / 1400 rpm/min
But i hanen't pinion gear and think 12 modes will be good ?

But really i nedd - are infos or fotos about trigger mechanism and automatic returm mechanism and gear rack spec data
If someone will help me i will be very happy , and grateful

My machine in theory will be heavy and powerfull to split wery knotty pine wood with any repeeds
BUT how russians says :- prakttika jebut teoriu ....... heheh . i thing someone will help me


----------



## Gamedic (Feb 10, 2011)

I joined this forum about 15 minutes ago, just to read this thread. These inertia splitters look great to me. My question is how do you engage the rack into the pinion gear with it moving at several hundred rpms. Do you just push it in and let it grind until it engages. That homebuilt one looks great!


----------



## 727sunset (Feb 10, 2011)

When you engage the mechanism there is no grinding. Flywheel speed (pinion) is apx 300 rpm and meshes properly with the rack every time.


----------



## dodek (Feb 10, 2011)

*.*

*727sunset * could you shot some fotos or make a short movie -how gear rack engage in your ori superspliter 

also im imteresting about a size of gear rack and size of pinion - coul you measure it ???


----------



## TFPace (Feb 10, 2011)

*Completed machine*

Has anyone besides Claude _Cmccui8146_ built an inertia style wood splitter?

Django built one several years ago.

Are there any SS owners in good 'ole North-Carolina? I would like to see one in person.

Tom


----------



## 727sunset (Feb 10, 2011)

*Super Split website*

dodek ~ to see a a video of the rack operation and engagement mechanism surf here starting at about 1 min, 20:
http://www.supersplit.com/video1.htm

The manufacturer also has provided many on the units' s details on their website, check it out. 

Offhand I'd guess the pinion to be about 2" dia.

Wasn't there an Amish gent in Ohio who built one and rents it out, and does he not sell plans??


----------



## dodek (Feb 11, 2011)

*.*

i've been watching this vid - there is nothing interesting me. I need someone who make a pic of your own spliter ,,, not only say's see in super split website....


> manufacturer also has provided many on the units' s details on their website, check it out.


 in this site there in nothing spec data interesting me .I need some real movie or pic not from advertises 

I heard about this amish fellow -either from admin of that forum- he send me some infos - but there is less contakt with him. (amish)


----------



## Gamedic (Feb 14, 2011)

Someone earlier in this thread asked about using 45 Lb olympic weights. Would that work or would they be to out of balance. Olympic plates are plentiful and fairly inexpensive. Olympic plates have a 2 and 1/32 inch hole, standard weights have a 1 inch hole. Olympic weights are also available in 100 Lb sizes. Standards can be found in 50 Lb sizes. I guess the standard weight plates would be easier to integrate with the pinion and the pillow blocks because of the 1 inch size of the steel rod that would fit in them. I don't know if a 1 inch rod would be strong enough or not. I searched around on the internet for weighted flywheels but didn't have a lot of luck. What do you guys think? Thanks.


----------



## MaxB52 (Feb 23, 2011)

*Flywheel splitter*

Cmccl8146 Hello May I ask where did you purchase or get your Flywheel and Clutch for your small engine?Do you think Olympic or standard weights will work.Maybe 75# weight.


----------



## Cmccul8146 (Feb 24, 2011)

MaxB52, I made my own flywheels, machined from 2inch thick steel plate. The blanks weighed 148 lbs each, so I relieved each side to get them down to 100 lbs each. Then made the welded in hubs which weigh 2 lbs each for a 102 lb per wheel total. I bought my clutch from Paul at Super Split. My gears are not the same pitch & diameter as those used on the SS, so I went with the heavier flywheels in order to run lower RPM's & still have plenty of splitting power. I've split 23'' Sweet Gum, 16" Red Elm, 20" Red & White Oak & Maple with it. 

As far as using the Olympic Barbell weights as flywheels, I don't know much about them other than they are cast iron & pretty expensive for the 100 lb size. You'd need to bore them out & weld in a keyed steel hub with set screws to attach them to the pinion shaft. Also I'm not so sure how flat the face of the barbell plates are, and you'll need the flat faces for the belts to track true. 

One thing I did change on my splitter is that I put one of the Harbor Freight 6 1/2 hp engines on it in December. The 3 hp I had was plenty powerful, but only had a quart gas tank & no fuel shut-off. Hope this info helps.


----------



## MaxB52 (Feb 25, 2011)

*Flywheel Splitter*

Hello Cmccul8146
Thank you for the information. I will keep looking around for the parts. Thanks again, have a great Day.


----------



## CountryBoy19 (Feb 25, 2011)

harrybeaver said:


> My biggest question is how the rack and pinion engage and disengage?


 
The rack is over the top of the pinion and it rests on a spring that is attached to rollers. This allows the rack to move forward and backwards without touching the pinion. There is a second set of rollers on top of the rack, that set is on a cam mechanism. Engaging the lever pushes down on the rollers, pushing the rack down onto the pinion. When the rack reaches the end of it's stroke there is a stop that bumps the rollers to flip the cam up and release the rack from the pinion. The return spring pulls the rack back, and the lower rollers resting on the spring keep the rack above the pinion so that it can return.

Clear as mud huh?


----------



## dodek (Feb 25, 2011)

*sss*



> I bought my clutch from Paul at Super Split. could you some some pic


is it not too complicated ? 

guys take some fotos ....


----------



## TFPace (Feb 25, 2011)

Cmccul8146 said:


> MaxB52, I made my own flywheels, machined from 2inch thick steel plate. The blanks weighed 148 lbs each, so I relieved each side to get them down to 100 lbs each. Then made the welded in hubs which weigh 2 lbs each for a 102 lb per wheel total. *I bought my clutch from Paul at Super Split.* My gears are not the same pitch & diameter as those used on the SS, so I went with the heavier flywheels in order to run lower RPM's & still have plenty of splitting power. I've split 23'' Sweet Gum, 16" Red Elm, 20" Red & White Oak & Maple with it.
> 
> As far as using the Olympic Barbell weights as flywheels, I don't know much about them other than they are cast iron & pretty expensive for the 100 lb size. You'd need to bore them out & weld in a keyed steel hub with set screws to attach them to the pinion shaft. Also I'm not so sure how flat the face of the barbell plates are, and you'll need the flat faces for the belts to track true.
> 
> One thing I did change on my splitter is that I put one of the Harbor Freight 6 1/2 hp engines on it in December. The 3 hp I had was plenty powerful, but only had a quart gas tank & no fuel shut-off. Hope this info helps.



Nice that he'd sell you just a clutch. Did he know what you were doing? 

Why did you removed that much mass from the flywheel other than to match the specs of a Super Split?


----------



## Cmccul8146 (Feb 25, 2011)

TFPace, The reason I machined so much weight off my flywheels is that I am the one who has to handle them during assembly, etc. & don't care to be lugging around 150 lb . pieces of steel. Before I started my build I did quite a bit of calculating as to the weight I needed with the gears that I am using ,running the lower RPM , and still have plenty of splitting force. If my lathe had a bigger swing, I'd have gone with a 20 inch diameter blank, which would have weighed 178 lbs, but still would have machined them to 100 lbs. Releiving the sides puts the majority of the weight toward the outer diameter & makes it easier to get them spinning, and is where the power is developed anyway. The SS uses 72 lb flywheels on thesmaller unit, & if I remember correctly their heavy duty model uses 90 lb wheels, but are running at 300 RPM, whereas I'm running around 160 RPM.

Yes, Paul knew I was building a copy of the SS when he sold me the clutch. I met him over 4 years ago at a forest products demo, & he is a great guy.


----------



## MaxB52 (Feb 27, 2011)

*Flywheel*

Hello
Does anybody know where I can buy a flywheel like the one they use on Super Split / Wood Wolf / or Gripo wood splitter? Or what I could use for the Flywheel.


----------



## MaxB52 (Feb 27, 2011)

*Ram/or Rack Gear*

How does the Ram/Rack pivot? I do not see any bolt at the head of the Ram/Rack to pivot on, in any of the pictures.Looks like the head/pusher Block on Rack Gear is bolted to a metal block. Then that is bolted to a plate that slide along the top of the I Beam.There are metal strips that is bolted to the plate.They slide along the side edge of the I Beam. I do not know if there is a metal plate or strip under those metal strips that slide along the edge of the I Beam.


----------



## Gamedic (Mar 1, 2011)

There is a good picture of the cam device that is used to engage the rack and pinion when the handle is pushed down on the wood wolf website in the gallery section.


----------



## angelo c (Mar 2, 2011)

MaxB52 said:


> Hello
> Does anybody know where I can buy a flywheel like the one they use on Super Split / Wood Wolf / or Gripo wood splitter? Or what I could use for the Flywheel.


 
you can buy one right from Paul at supersplit.com but you need two!!! Something about balance, inertia and p-torque....


----------



## TFPace (Mar 2, 2011)

CountryBoy19 said:


> The rack is over the top of the pinion and it rests on a spring that is attached to rollers. This allows the rack to move forward and backwards without touching the pinion. There is a second set of rollers on top of the rack, that set is on a cam mechanism. Engaging the lever pushes down on the rollers, pushing the rack down onto the pinion. When the rack reaches the end of it's stroke there is a stop that bumps the rollers to flip the cam up and release the rack from the pinion. *The return spring pulls the rack back*, and the lower rollers resting on the spring keep the rack above the pinion so that it can return.
> 
> Clear as mud huh?



CountryBoy19,

Your explanation is the best yet :msp_smile:

What type of spring is used? I looked at the Wood Wolf web site and if there's a spring shown is his photos I'm missing it.

On an aside, the production of the WoodWolf is sold out and you'll have to wait until the summer of 2011 to get your machine. I'm in the wrong business :msp_blink:


----------



## Dalmatian90 (Mar 2, 2011)

> On an aside, the production of the WoodWolf is sold out and you'll have to wait until the summer of 2011 to get your machine. I'm in the wrong business



Other posts have said it's not so much that he sells out...he waits until he has enough orders before he orders the parts. Seems like he only makes a production run once a year.


----------



## 727sunset (Mar 2, 2011)

Here's a schematic that came from Gripo which should help you guys visualize the SS workings. 
View attachment 174552


----------



## sunfish (Mar 2, 2011)

TFPace said:


> CountryBoy19,
> On an aside, the production of the WoodWolf is sold out and you'll have to wait until the summer of 2011 to get your machine. I'm in the wrong business :msp_blink:


 
I was interested in the WoodWolf before I bought the Super Split, because of the price. But the guy wouldn't call me back. I noticed the weight of the Wolf is about half that of the SS. Was told he uses a lot of Chinese parts and doesn't stock any. After a little more digging, it seems he doesn't build many machines, but with the low price, he has many orders.

I figured it's better to get the real deal than a copy anyway. I couldn't be happier


----------



## TFPace (Mar 3, 2011)

727sunset said:


> Here's a schematic that came from Gripo which should help you guys visualize the SS workings.
> View attachment 174552



Hello 727sunset,

Thank you for the .pdf of the Gripo splitter !!! It looks like they use a coil spring similar to a good old screen door spring just bigger.


Thanks again for taking the time out to do this!

Tom


----------



## dodek (Mar 4, 2011)

*727sunset * thx but it is still less 

I am asking some owner of ori superspliter or wood wolf - could you paste an extract foto of each mechanismes ?????

I think most peoples writting at this forum the are only fakking ####ing sellers who can't help you - only thinking about selling new superspliter's and earn on it.
AM I right or not >? 
Or maybe in Us people afraid cheating and copy fantastic american technological thought


----------



## 727sunset (Mar 4, 2011)

TFPace said:


> It looks like they use a coil spring similar to a good old screen door spring just bigger.


Yes, the spring would be apx 1" diameter made of maybe 1/16" wire. It's one piece and makes a simple U turn at the end of I-beam.

Here's a mod I did on mine.


----------



## Pcoz88 (Mar 4, 2011)

There's one built in Howard,Ohio.Amish built.

Pete


----------



## sunfish (Mar 5, 2011)

dodek said:


> *727sunset * thx but it is still less
> 
> I am asking some owner of ori superspliter or wood wolf - could you paste an extract foto of each mechanismes ?????
> 
> ...


 
Yeah, I get a check from Super Splitter once a month for promotion here. Hahaha :msp_rolleyes:

I've posted photos here of mine with the hood off. There's also older threads of SS builds with detailed info. But with an attitude like yours, I doubt you'll get much help.


----------



## dodek (Mar 9, 2011)

*sunfish* :msp_blink:
i think you don't t fell a allusion,
I think there is some good guy who take o foto , not only lazy old geezer's who still argue


----------



## fffrosty72 (Mar 10, 2011)

Is there any way to take rep away?

Uh, great thread guys, I'm looking at every pic and reading every word!!
I want to try to get one of these built this summer.


----------



## InTheFlow (Apr 1, 2011)

Awesome thread...I love the idea of building my own too. I don't have the skills to do so though. 

I'm going to ask about purchasing a kit from Super Splitter. If they sell all the parts as a kit, it would be a great deal for those of us who would like a SS but can't afford the 3K. After researching the companies that make these Paul seems to be the most stand up guy...I'd really like to give him some business.


----------



## dodek (May 17, 2011)

*sss*

I look look look and :
- Log splitter with gear rack drive - it's old american patent


----------



## Pcoz88 (May 30, 2011)

*need pics or video of the home built ones splitting wood*

Any more pics and video or did any body else build one since???


----------



## m37 (Jun 6, 2011)

Cmccul8146 said:


> Sierra, please don't take this as criticism, but advice from someone who's actually built a flywheel splitter that works perfectly. The 24" rack isn't nearly long enough. My Martin RA6 x 4 was cut to 42inches in order to have a 25 inch stroke. Remember, the pinion is well beyond the end of the rack in the retracted position. My Martin gear rack is 1 inch thick x 1 1/2 inches wide. SS uses a rack that is 1 inch thick x 2 inches wide. Motion Industries ,Inc. sells the Martin products. You'd need at least a 2.500 pitch dia. pinion gear ( 2.833 max OD) to bore for a 1 3/8 shaft W/ 1/4 keyway. If you weld the pinion to the shaft, you won't be able to disassamble if necessary without cutting the shaft & making a new one. SS also uses CAST flywheels that are 2 inches thick. Also not a good idea to run with just one flywheel . There's the BALANCE factor involved that requires 2 flywheels. My flywheels weigh 102 lbs. each, with the hub, and are rotating at 150- 160 rpm with just a 3 hp motor. ( running half throttle) That's 19.635 inches of travel per sec. no load speed. So far I haven't needed to ,but could speed up motor a bit if I need more splitting force. Hope this info is of some help.
> 
> Farmermike, I hope this answers some of your questions, too.
> 
> Claude


 
Lets see some pics!


----------



## Cmccul8146 (Jun 6, 2011)

m37, pics are on page 3 of this thread.


----------



## MaxB52 (Jun 8, 2011)

*Super Splitter - Flywheel*

Cmccul8146 Hello I have a question about Flywheels. I found Two different size Flywheels. One set is 18" in diameter and about 70#. The other set is 28" diameter and about 70#. Which would be better to use on the super splitter? About what kind of rpm would they turn the pinion gear( Both flywheels using same pinion gear)?I would appreciate any help you could give me. Thank you. Bill


----------



## gwiley (Jun 8, 2011)

That spitter video is funny - i don't care who you are! The competitor has to be THE slowest hydraulic splitter I have ever seen.


----------



## Junkfxr (Sep 1, 2011)

Cmccul8146 said:


> Going to make a minor change to my splitter. It works quite well as it is ,especially on dead trees, but I'm going to take farmermike's advice & make a taller wedge. Green wood splits good too, but on a couple of the larger pieces it doesn't always bust completely it two. Have had to either flip it over & make a 2nd split to halve them, or pull them apart by hand, then the smaller pieces are no problem. Wedge is now only 6 inches high and am going to grind the welds off & make a new one at least 10 or maybe even 12 inches tall. Split some knotty ,twisted & crotch pieces of red oak today & had to hit them 2 times running engine at half throttle. One day when I have some more of the knotty or crotch pieces, I'm going to rev up to 3/4 throttle & see how that does. So far the wedge height is the only change I've seen that I would want to make. Now I'm thinking of building a much smaller electric version as a kindling splitter. Won't need real heavy flywheels for it, nor as fast flywheel rpm to split the slabs off my bandsaw mill to get some easy kindling strips.


 
How did the taller wedges work out? How thick are your wedges?


----------



## Cmccul8146 (Sep 1, 2011)

Junkfxr I never changed the wedge. After using it a bit more I learned to split closer to the edge of the round rather than dead center, then turn the round & make another split. MNguns, sunfish, & I believe STLFirewood have Super Splitters and all will tell you there is a learning curve to splitting with these Flywheel splitters. After learning how to use it, you can split almost anything with them.


----------



## LogLogLog (Sep 3, 2011)

What if you could buy a Supersplitter-style log splitter for less than $2K new?


----------



## Freehand (Sep 3, 2011)

Not a rack and pinion,but check out the cycle time.




<iframe width="420" height="345" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/2bVAAx3mMKY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


----------



## Denny M (Sep 7, 2011)

I stopped by Flack Hill Machine Ltd (Melvin Yoder) in Howard Ohio last Saturday to look at his inertia splitter. It looked like a well engineered splitter to me. I have been thinking about one for a couple of years now after reading about them on this site. I ordered one from Melvin; he is sold out at the moment and will have to build one for me. I should have it in a couple of weeks.


----------



## Coldfront (Sep 7, 2011)

It is obviously going to be very hard to build one from just looking at pictures and youtube video. I think a person would need to look at one live in person, or have a very detailed set of plans to make one of these. Unless you own a machine shop and have lots of time and money.


----------



## FanOFatherNash (Oct 5, 2011)

*other uses of stored energy*

Future Forestry Inc. The Pacific Northwest's source for Low Impact Forestry Tools and Equipment. Introduces the New Processor
no pricing on it as of yet, i am sure its gonna be up there...


----------



## FanOFatherNash (Oct 5, 2011)

LogLogLog said:


> What if you could buy a Supersplitter-style log splitter for less than $2K new?



wood wolf is around 2k i think....


----------



## wdchuck (Oct 5, 2011)

FanOFatherNash said:


> Future Forestry Inc. The Pacific Northwest's source for Low Impact Forestry Tools and Equipment. Introduces the New Processor
> no pricing on it as of yet, i am sure its gonna be up there...


 
That would be a pretty slick setup for someone. Close to what I'm trying to setup for myself.


----------



## KiwiBro (Oct 5, 2011)

That's a blue super splitter by the looks of it, modified a little?


----------



## Freehand (Oct 5, 2011)

Does somebody have a vid that shows a rack and pinion set up splitting a nasty piece of crotch wood? Every one I've seen is pushing butter straight grain with no knots or variance.What happens when you do "lock it up"?


----------



## KiwiBro (Oct 5, 2011)

Freehand said:


> Does somebody have a vid that shows a rack and pinion set up splitting a nasty piece of crotch wood? Every one I've seen is pushing butter straight grain with no knots or variance.



If I had a dollar for every time one of us asked that....

Fortunately, I believe a certain Hedgewhacker is going to put one through it's paces at a GTG and report his findings, and, as per, it didn't happen without the videos and pics to prove it.

Cue the usual "it's a production splitter, I don't touch nasty wood, so neither should you" mantra from the usual suspects ;-)


----------



## Freehand (Oct 5, 2011)

Meh.


----------



## MNGuns (Oct 5, 2011)

KiwiBro said:


> If I had a dollar for every time one of us asked that....
> 
> Fortunately, I believe a certain Hedgewhacker is going to put one through it's paces at a GTG and report his findings, and, as per, it didn't happen without the videos and pics to prove it.
> 
> Cue the usual "it's a production splitter, I don't touch nasty wood, so neither should you" mantra from the usual suspects ;-)


 
As it seems you have a great deal of input on the matter, please tell us KiwiBro, what is your experience with production firewood and this type of machine.? While I consider myself a rookie compared to others at a measly 75 or so cord a year in sales, I am confident in saying that there is the right tool for every job, and in these parts we do not sell knots, crotches, or splits as firewood. All of the "trash" goes in my own stove. Why waste your time trying to split trash, when you can cut around it and split the woood that is actaully profitable...?


----------



## KiwiBro (Oct 6, 2011)

MNGuns said:


> As it seems you have a great deal of input on the matter, please tell us KiwiBro, what is your experience with production firewood and this type of machine.? While I consider myself a rookie compared to others at a measly 75 or so cord a year in sales, I am confident in saying that there is the right tool for every job, and in these parts we do not sell knots, crotches, or splits as firewood. All of the "trash" goes in my own stove. Why waste your time trying to split trash, when you can cut around it and split the woood that is actaully profitable...?


 
Freehand, like many of us, just wants to see vids of how these splitters go in less than perfect-case scenario, and worst-case scenario wood. It's not an unreasonable request. Whether they, I or anyone else for that matter, cuts one or 10000 trees, or splits 2 pieces or 2000 cords per year is absolutely irrelevant to the question and/or request. A request coming from people keen to make INFORMED buying decisions and/or learn more about these splitters, their limits and how to best work within or around said limits.

Your post infers that people with "trash" wood may not like this splitter. Should they all soak up such a sermon on blind faith alone or perhaps, just maybe, some of us would at least like to see for ourselves, with our own eyes, just what these splitters can and can't handle and make our own judgements. 

Again, it's not an unreasonable request. That it's often met with somewhat obstinate preaching from the production pulpit is a justifiable cause for suspicion. The easiest way to confirm or expunge such a suspicion would be via a video or two, and I look forward to those and pics from the GTG.


----------



## Cmccul8146 (Oct 6, 2011)

*Flywheel Splitters vs. Knotty Stuff*

Whilst my flywheel splitter is homebuilt & admittedly not a SS, it DOES INDEED split the knotty wood I have run thru it. Sometimes on the 1st hit, sometimes takes 2 or even 3 hits, but still faster than hydraulic splitter cycle times. As I have said here before, and SS owners will agree, they will split about anything if you READ the wood & start by working the knotty stuff from the edges rather than straight down the center. MNGuns, STLFirewood, Sunfish, and other SS owners who are in the firewood business are using these splitters for the production they get from them & not just to see what it will split. I totally agree with MNGuns that if you're in the firewood business you are selling mostly good straight grained wood that stacks neatly,and burning your trashy wood yourself. Hydraulic splitters DON"T always go thru knotty stuff on the 1st try either, so why do you guys who have never even seen ,let alone ,used a flywheel splitter keep putting them down as only good for the best wood. Are you really that JEALOUS of the speed that your hydraulic will NEVER come close to?


----------



## KiwiBro (Oct 6, 2011)

Cmccul8146 said:


> Whilst my flywheel splitter is homebuilt & admittedly not a SS, it DOES INDEED split the knotty wood I have run thru it.


 Thanks. Notwithstanding the fact yours has significantly heavier flywheels, the age old adage applies: 'videos and pics, or it didn't happen'. 

To suggest anyone seeking videos so they can see for themselves to help them make informed decisions and verify claims is a jealous hydraulic splitter owner is so 'out there' it's rather comical. 



On a slightly different note, that blue modded splitter and platform in the link above has a really cool way to use those flywheels for winching up logs/rings. Well done those blokes for making it work. There's a thread around these parts about working the wood as we age and that looks like a great back-saver right there.


----------



## Junkfxr (Oct 6, 2011)

If you go to Logrite's website and watch the whole video of their splitter / processor, it shows some not-so-ideal wood being split.


----------



## BSD (Oct 6, 2011)

flywheelers will split knots and crotches, but you do have to read the pattern to make it a little easier. I've found my speedpro will more shear the nasty pieces than split them. the splitter will grunt, shudder and damn near stall sometimes, sometimes it will stop the ram, sometimes it takes 2-4 hits but it will go through everything I've put in it so far. red oak, white oak, black birch, maple, hickory, elm, locust and ash.

to be honest I try to avoid the really nasty pieces now a days, I try to get all my logs in 4-10' lengths and crotch pieces just don't fit well on the truck or trailer so I tend to leave them behind. 

I will do my best to find a truly nasty piece and film it for you guys.


----------



## harrybeaver (Oct 6, 2011)

Well the good news is it looks like our options are expanding in addition to SS, wood wolf, and the one in the link above Tractor supply and DR power products have introduced models that use flywheel technology. Competition usually leads to better products and pricing. 
Interesting note is in DR's video they place the number of splits in one hour at roughly 3:1 for flywheel vs hydraulic. Would that mean it is as fast as a hydraulic with four way wedge? I love my four way wedge!


----------



## Hddnis (Oct 6, 2011)

There is video out there of these things splitting some pretty nasty stuff. Some of the stuff they hit more than once, but it is still a fast operation. All the doubters just look goofy trying to hang their hats on that.





Mr. HE


----------



## Freehand (Oct 6, 2011)

I don't know what kind of pissing match you fellers have going on this subject.I have no doubts that it is a very capable machine.I have yet to see a link provided that shows the rack and pinion platform performing in less than ideal wood.That is all.

Around here,if you chucked every knotty piece over your shoulder you would waste half the tree.I guess markets differ as I have never encountered a customer rejecting a load calling it "trash wood".


----------



## Steve NW WI (Oct 6, 2011)

I've liked the idea of these things for a while. What I didn't like (also with a lot of smaller hydraulics) is the lack of anything remotely close to really towable...highway speeds, long distances, etc. 8" tires belong on lawnmowers, not trailers.

Logrite may have hit a home run with me by cross mounting the splitter on a real trailer. Now I'll have to figure out how to scrounge enought pennies for one.

Just goes to show that there's always a better mousetrap out there somewhere.


----------



## KiwiBro (Oct 6, 2011)

Hddnis said:


> There is video out there of these things splitting some pretty nasty stuff. Some of the stuff they hit more than once, but it is still a fast operation. All the doubters just look goofy trying to hang their hats on that.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Fantastic. Can you or anyone point us to it please? What you consider goofy, I suspect some will consider due diligence, especially given how tight money is these days.

I'll go back to the logrite one again as I was more looking at that great winch idea and thinking if a long belt off a pulley on the side of the flywheels could drive a conveyor without sucking too much kick out of the ram. I agree with Steve NW WI, it's pulling some great ideas together that could work out really well, not the least of which is highway towing. Not sure how easily it could be configured to be worked from either side if need be for those jobs that might need it.

Does anyone know the price of that logrite 'system'?


----------



## meierk (Oct 6, 2011)

*Attempting my own build*

I was just about to purchase a 4T Yardworks from Canadian Tire when I ran across this thread. I just happen to have most of the materials I need to build a Flywheel splitter so I'm going to attempt it. I suspect my main challenges will be my lack of experience welding, no engineering background and no access to a machine shop, but what I lack in knowledge and tools I more than make in in determination 

From reading this thread, posts by django and sourcing parts, I have come up with the following list of questions. If you do not have all the answers, please answer what question you can. The information is probably all here in the various messages, but I lack understanding for what some of you consider basic engineering principles.

1) It appears that the size of the engine is not very relevant (i.e. 3 - 6+ HP), but I get the impression that it may be dependent on the spur gear pitch and O.D. Is that correct?

2) I believe there is a recommendation to have a flywheel shaft O.D. of at least 1 3/8", but when I sourced the spur gear on Motion Industries, the largest bore size is 1 1/4". Is the recommendation to have the spur gear on it's own shaft?

3) I plan to use 2 flywheels at approx 100lbs each. Would a flywheel shaft size of 1 1/4" be alright if I use a 4140 grade or better steel? I really wanted to go with 1 1/2 or 2", but limited to spur gear bore if on same shaft.

4) Would it make more sense to have the spur gear on it's own shaft (separate from the flywheel shaft) to make it easier to control the RPM if you change the engine out later and to remove limitation on smaller spur gear bore size?

5) Would there be any benefit by have a step pulley system in place to allow you to easily change the RPM? This likely doesn't make sense, but asking anyway.

6) Are all clutch assemblies the same or is the one on the SS special (i.e. is there a specific type/name for it)?

7) Do I really need a rack longer than 2' or can I simply weld on an extension on the push side? I don't think I want anymore capacity than 23".

8) Does it make any difference if I go with a 14 1/2 degree PA over a 20 degree PA?

9) I'm having a difficult time picturing the mechanism that will engage the rack with the pinion. Can anyone supply some close-up pics of theirs? Is there kick-up stops on both ends of the rail?


Regards,
Kevin


----------



## cjnspecial (Oct 6, 2011)

KiwiBro said:


> Fantastic. Can you or anyone point us to it please? What you consider goofy, I suspect some will consider due diligence, especially given how tight money is these days.
> 
> I'll go back to the logrite one again as I was more looking at that great winch idea and thinking if a long belt off a pulley on the side of the flywheels could drive a conveyor without sucking too much kick out of the ram. I agree with Steve NW WI, it's pulling some great ideas together that could work out really well, not the least of which is highway towing. Not sure how easily it could be configured to be worked from either side if need be for those jobs that might need it.
> 
> Does anyone know the price of that logrite 'system'?



<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/_zAEps8cCxs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Go to the 4:00 mark to see it split some crotch wood. The one with all the bells and whistles is about $9500.


----------



## Freehand (Oct 6, 2011)

cjnspecial said:


> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/_zAEps8cCxs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
> 
> Go to the 4:00 mark to see it split some crotch wood. The one with all the bells and whistles is about $9500.


 
I saw him fussing with that thing a little too long for my taste.A 35 ton hydraulic with a four way wedge would have the edge there.


----------



## KiwiBro (Oct 6, 2011)

cjnspecial said:


> Go to the 4:00 mark to see it split some crotch wood. The one with all the bells and whistles is about $9500.



Thanks. That's a different video to the one I was watching on their website. It has some of the same sequences in it but shows way more detail. It looks like it's just a matter of the operator getting used to the machine and having to 'read' the wood a little better but they can still get through crotched wood OK. For the speed these things split at, working through crotches slower would be fine unless there was a heap of them, then a hydraulic would be better, surely. 

So, they say 2 cord an hour. How many people, what wood, etc? I'm assuming that's a best-case scenario, so what would it typically be for Joe Average in a typical hardwood mix (if there is such a thing)? If we allow 25% real-life factor, and say 1.5 cords per hour, that's pretty darn good. Here that's pushing about 6-7m3 per hour. what does a four-way hydraulic get through per hour in a similar mix in real life, and does that hour include moving the splitter to keep it clear of the wood (there's no conveyor to this 'processor')?

The cover and belt cover look the same as super splitter, only blue instead of red. Is it a blue super splitter?

Some cool things about that set-up though. They've put some thought into it for sure.


----------



## Hddnis (Oct 7, 2011)

One thing I notice, I'm guilty of it too when I first used a hydraulic splitter, was that you see how much power you have and you start just throwing wood in there and pulling the lever. I learned not to do that the first time I had to use the chainsaw to get a big crotch off the wedge. Learning to read the wood is a fact no matter what machine you use, most the time a fellow doesn't even think about it.

It comes back to basic math, a kinetic splitter is producing some serious power, it just uses stored energy so it dumps it quick too which makes it faster. A hydraulic splitter is geared lower as it were, so it can keep going, but unless you have a two stage pump (second gear) they are really slow per hp.

Four way wedges offset the slow speed a great deal and that takes the power produced at a slower speed and starts using it better. At the end of the day you have to compare productivity and cost of operation. A good hydraulic machine with a for way will come close to what you can produce with a kinetic splitter, but in every case it will burn at least twice as much gas. 

As an example, I have a friend with a splitter that uses a four cylinder Ford industrial moter off an old genset. It is a really nice custom unit he has $4k into even using mostly salvage parts. His production rate is two cords an hour average, but he is burning two gallons of gas an hour at half throttle. A superplit type machine would match that production and use 1/8th of the fuel, a savings of roughly $6 per hour. Your average hydraulic splitter, without a four way wedge, tops out at half a cord an hour, to a half gallon of fuel; wasting most of the energy it produces just pumping fluid that does not do any work.




Mr. HE


----------



## BSD (Oct 7, 2011)

Freehand said:


> I don't know what kind of pissing match you fellers have going on this subject.I have no doubts that it is a very capable machine.I have yet to see a link provided that shows the rack and pinion platform performing in less than ideal wood.That is all.
> 
> Around here,if you chucked every knotty piece over your shoulder you would waste half the tree.I guess markets differ as I have never encountered a customer rejecting a load calling it "trash wood".


 
ok guys, I dug through my stash and found a nice double stem crotch of red oak. base of it was around 15" diameter and each stem was around 8-10". I cut it to 18" and put it on the table. I got out the HD cam and away we go! after getting through it and seeing the inside, it was a truly nasty piece. I'm not trying to hide anything, I did have the machine up to 3500 rpm for this log, where I normally run around 2700.

I wouldn't recommend doing pieces like this all the time with this machine, its just flat-out dangerous. the amount of energy that is transferred from the flywheels is amazing. it tosses this 60lb brute like a rag-doll. I actually was about to give up in fear of my safety, hence my shrugged shoulders and pause in the middle of the video,but I figured you guys needed to see what these machines are capable of. Like I said, i wouldn't do pieces like this all the time because it is a bit dangerous as you can see from the video, but it is doable. these pieces will be saved for the hydro machine next time.

[video=facebook;272170812816613]http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=272170812816613[/video]


----------



## buildmyown (Oct 7, 2011)

As an SS owner the Logrite setup is slick and gives me some bad but good ideas.


----------



## ultrahd2000 (Oct 7, 2011)

*saftey switch*



BSD said:


> ok guys, I dug through my stash and found a nice double stem crotch of red oak. base of it was around 15" diameter and each stem was around 8-10". I cut it to 18" and put it on the table. I got out the HD cam and away we go! after getting through it and seeing the inside, it was a truly nasty piece. I'm not trying to hide anything, I did have the machine up to 3500 rpm for this log, where I normally run around 2700.
> 
> I wouldn't recommend doing pieces like this all the time with this machine, its just flat-out dangerous. the amount of energy that is transferred from the flywheels is amazing. it tosses this 60lb brute like a rag-doll. I actually was about to give up in fear of my safety, hence my shrugged shoulders and pause in the middle of the video,but I figured you guys needed to see what these machines are capable of. Like I said, i wouldn't do pieces like this all the time because it is a bit dangerous as you can see from the video, but it is doable. these pieces will be saved for the hydro machine next time.
> 
> [video=facebook;272170812816613]http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=272170812816613[/video]


 
did you change the handle ? I noticed it looks like you are able to operate with just one hand?


----------



## BSD (Oct 7, 2011)

ultrahd2000 said:


> did you change the handle ? I noticed it looks like you are able to operate with just one hand?


 
yes, all my mods are documented in the other thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/180355-10.htm


----------



## Junkfxr (Oct 20, 2011)

Has anyone tried building one of these rack and pinion splitters with the wedge on the rack? I can see some of the down sides of that but it would save all of the dragging large rounds back to be resplit.


----------



## half (Mar 3, 2012)

*super splitter*

I,m in the process of deciding what to build hydro or mechanical splitter, I can see the advantages with both but it seems the mechanical one could be the go, as decent hydraulic components are not cheap, $300NZ plus for a good valve bank, ect And they have a lot more things to be correctly matched up, I.E motor pump ram . Ive seen some horrorible splitters made by people without hydraulic knowledge. running slow, getting hot, and just not performing, and using mismatched worn out parts 

I have still to price up the rack and pinion and am interested in a real good look at the cam system that controls the rack return. I want mine to be trailer mounted and able to be towed at normal speed so balance will come into it


----------



## half (Mar 5, 2012)

*clutches*

just a question about clutches, not knocking them, just my understanding of a centifugal clutch is, it is on the motor shaft and as it increases in speed, it throws out and engages the drive pulley and drives the flywheels.
So really all the help it can provide is at startup, it is no use if the machine stalls in a knotty log,As it is controlled by the motor speed, so is it really required


----------



## half (Mar 5, 2012)

*super splitters*

I,m probably a bit of a pain asking the questions, but down the bottom of the world we do not have the advantage of going down to the local dealer and having a good look "under the hood"' so to speak. Or having a good look at your mates one.There is none around. Any pictures are a great help to people wanting to build one. All we seem to have are hydraulic ones


----------



## Stihlasaurus (Mar 5, 2012)

BSD said:


> ok guys, I dug through my stash and found a nice double stem crotch of red oak. base of it was around 15" diameter and each stem was around 8-10". I cut it to 18" and put it on the table. I got out the HD cam and away we go! after getting through it and seeing the inside, it was a truly nasty piece. I'm not trying to hide anything, I did have the machine up to 3500 rpm for this log, where I normally run around 2700.
> 
> I wouldn't recommend doing pieces like this all the time with this machine, its just flat-out dangerous. the amount of energy that is transferred from the flywheels is amazing. it tosses this 60lb brute like a rag-doll. I actually was about to give up in fear of my safety, hence my shrugged shoulders and pause in the middle of the video,but I figured you guys needed to see what these machines are capable of. Like I said, i wouldn't do pieces like this all the time because it is a bit dangerous as you can see from the video, but it is doable. these pieces will be saved for the hydro machine next time.
> 
> [video=facebook;272170812816613]http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=272170812816613[/video]



What looks dangerous to me is leaning over the splitting area with the type of handle you use. Maybe its just the angle of the camera that makes me nervous, but if you leaned over and the handle got activated maybe by debris sticking to your clothes it would be game over. As a general rule, it does not seem like a good idea to ever lean across the splitting area of one of these while the motor is running for any reason. Otherwise, I like your handle better than some of the others using the rack & pinion. 

I got to get me a rack & pinion machine!


----------



## BSD (Mar 5, 2012)

Stihlasaurus said:


> What looks dangerous to me is leaning over the splitting area with the type of handle you use. Maybe its just the angle of the camera that makes me nervous, but if you leaned over and the handle got activated maybe by debris sticking to your clothes it would be game over. As a general rule, it does not seem like a good idea to ever lean across the splitting area of one of these while the motor is running for any reason. Otherwise, I like your handle better than some of the others using the rack & pinion.
> 
> I got to get me a rack & pinion machine!


i try not to, but I try not to speed in my truck either... it happens once in a while...

at least, it'll be a quick and painless death with my split speed, unlike those slow pesky hydro-machine deaths.


----------



## half (Apr 2, 2012)

*super splitter*



sunfish said:


> Yeah, I get a check from Super Splitter once a month for promotion here. Hahaha :msp_rolleyes:
> 
> I've posted photos here of mine with the hood off. There's also older threads of SS builds with detailed info. But with an attitude like yours, I doubt you'll get much help.



That is him not me, 
I am trying to get as much information as I can on this design.So i can build one. The main problem I have with it, is the chances of seeing one for real, And running a tape over it, is about the same as sleeping with Miss World. They are not in this country, and the current price from D.R factory is about $3000 NZ dollars without frieght to the bottom of the world.{On the west coast go to hawaii then 10 fly hours south] Sure I can source most of the parts, except the rack and pinion maybe, but I have seen the source on this forum so can import one. So am in the process of getting parts together. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks


----------



## north1 (May 20, 2012)

hai

wil bi the shaft 32mm thick enough for two 50kg flywheel


----------



## m37 (May 20, 2012)

Keep up the good info. And pics of the progress.


----------



## north1 (Jul 27, 2012)

almoust


----------



## north1 (Aug 15, 2012)

View attachment 248669
View attachment 248670
View attachment 248671
View attachment 248672
View attachment 248673


----------



## KiwiBro (Aug 15, 2012)

north1 said:


> View attachment 248669
> View attachment 248670
> View attachment 248671
> View attachment 248672
> View attachment 248673


----------



## MaxB52 (Aug 16, 2012)

*Flywheels*

Hello KiwiBro
May I ask what you are using for the Flywheels and where can I get a set. What is the weight of one Flywheel? Thank you for any help you can give me. Your Pictures are great and your project is looking great also. Bill


----------



## MaxB52 (Aug 16, 2012)

*Flywheel-Question sent to wrong person.*

Hello North1

I sent Question about the Flywheels to wrong person-KiwiBro. Sorry about that. Take care. Bill


----------



## north1 (Aug 16, 2012)

apology for my English
*and to note* I am not an engineer all I do is after what I learned on the web

my flywheels are from the track Two identical, only one has a wider edge
Their weight is 48 kg, each 48 cm diameter
my rack is asemled ( poour men rack )
the rack is module 4 ,pinion has 16 teeth
measurements are in metric system because I'm from Europe
everything is a copy of Mr. CMCCUL8146(I hope it will give a comment)
I hope that will be equally successful
I'll be photographing the rest if you're interested


----------



## Mac88 (Aug 16, 2012)

north1 said:


> my flywheels are from the track Two identical, only one has a wider edge



Bulldozer/tractor diesel engine flywheels?


----------



## north1 (Aug 16, 2012)

Mac88 said:


> Bulldozer/tractor diesel engine flywheels?




diesel truck 300hp
## No matter what the vehicles are important is that both are identical to the same diameter of the same weight and same ground-contact system


----------



## Mac88 (Aug 16, 2012)

north1 said:


> diesel truck 300hp



Thanks. I figured it was something like that. Big recess for heavy duty clutch. Looked familiar.


----------



## north1 (Aug 16, 2012)

progres


----------



## Mac88 (Aug 16, 2012)

north1 said:


> progres



It looks like it's starting to come together. Are you machining those parts, or are they off the shelf?


----------



## KiwiBro (Aug 16, 2012)

north1 said:


> progres


----------



## north1 (Aug 16, 2012)

Mac88 said:


> It looks like it's starting to come together. Are you machining those parts, or are they off the shelf?



, Rack consists of two narrow screwed it on a flat plate with 20x60mm bolts M 8
Sprocket is a standard module 4 16 teeth (that I bought) shaft is 35mm
# I have friends who have the tools and they do what I need( for a 6 pack)
#### so far I' just bought a sprocket and a few screws the rest is garbage vhat i find around
# Unfortunately, my shop is just a small tool I have a basic tool to be found in every house exept two welding machines


----------



## north1 (Aug 16, 2012)

KiwiBro
# Thanks for the pictures
# what kind of splitter you use


----------



## Mac88 (Aug 16, 2012)

north1 said:


> , Rack consists of two narrow screwed it on a flat plate with 20x60mm bolts M 8
> Sprocket is a standard module 4 16 teeth (that I bought) shaft is 35mm
> # I have friends who have the tools and they do what I need( for a 6 pack)
> #### so far I' just bought a sprocket and a few screws the rest is garbage vhat i find around
> # Unfortunately, my shop is just a small tool I have a basic tool to be found in every house exept two welding machines





Thanks. It's good to have friends to help with the things you're not equipped to do yourself. I like
the pics of your progress.


----------



## north1 (Aug 16, 2012)

without people and friends we are lost in this world
# 
# one hand washing the other ,two together washing the face


----------



## MaxB52 (Aug 17, 2012)

*Flywheel*

Hello North1
Thanks for your speedy reply to my questions on the flywheels. May I ask what Diesel Truck the Flywheels came off of ( Year,Make and Model). I don't know very much about big trucks.Keep up with your progress,Pictures are Great. Thanks again for any help you can give me. Take care. Bill


----------



## north1 (Aug 20, 2012)

MaxB52 said:


> Hello North1
> Thanks for your speedy reply to my questions on the flywheels. May I ask what Diesel Truck the Flywheels came off of ( Year,Make and Model). I don't know very much about big trucks.Keep up with your progress,Pictures are Great. Thanks again for any help you can give me. Take care. Bill






## I do not know the model of the truck where the flywheels used
# The important thing is to find two identical in size and weight and possibly that they have the same holes in centre
look in scrapyards or or in a local workshop


----------



## MaxB52 (Aug 20, 2012)

*Flywheel*

Hello North1

Thank you for your reply. I will keep looking. Keep up your good work on your project. Thanks Bill


----------



## KiwiBro (Aug 20, 2012)

north1 said:


> KiwiBro
> # Thanks for the pictures
> # what kind of splitter you use


Hi north1,

Thank you for the great pictures. 

You'll find a link in my signature to a tutorial about how to show pictures in your posts.

I couldn't wait for Super Split or DR to value the market here down under high enough to get their splitters here, and because I don't have the time or skills to build one, I found a way to get me a Super Split machine. Really nice machine it is too. Simple but strong...and fast.

Sure needs a few tweaks though when time and $ permit me. Getting sick of rolling up ramps into the back of the ute. It needs to be towable, anything else than that is mickey-mouse here in NZ because we are always moving gear around and it takes up too much room in the tray of my ute. We'll make the beam (thus flywheels, engine too) raise and lower on sprung telescoping poles to get the center of gravity down when towing but still have the machine set up to any height that's best for the operator. We use FIBC bags here that hold about 1m3 of thrown split wood - so it would be good to get the table up high enough to be able to fill a bag without needing a conveyor and without handling the wood once it's split - it just falls off the table into the bag. Operator may need to stand on a platform for this but we'll give it a shot and see how it goes.
Have already added a UHMWPE layer to the table. I had this idea a while ago after seeing guys wrestling rounds back into position. The plastic is super slippery and hard wearing and it's a breeze getting re-splits back into position with one hand. Until I had tried this plastic, I didn't realise how much energy I was wasting.


----------



## north1 (Aug 21, 2012)

*KiwiBro*

NZ is the first choice if I had to emigrate from my country
half joke half-truth
Shoot what it looks like your log splitter

thank you


----------



## yeknom (Aug 31, 2012)

north1 where did you get the spur gear?
im getting all the parts collected and the only thing i cant seem to find is what to use for the pinion.
i like how its removable/replaceable etc 
ive searched online n mcmaster carr but cant seem to find anything with with a id or bore larger then 3/4inch etc.

i have a rack i got free does anyone know how to measure it so i order the correct pinion/sprocket ?


----------



## north1 (Sep 1, 2012)

how to determine module, I learned from this script inclement

http://www.khkgears.co.jp/en/gear_technology/pdf/gearabc_b.pdf

buy gear and then bore a hole right to sit on the shaft


read carefully what is written by Cmccul8146 my product is a copy of his product

rack and pinion must be subsequently heat treated to be sufficiently robust to withstand the loads

sorry on my English


----------



## yeknom (Sep 2, 2012)

thanks for the info north. where did you get it and what are the specs? angle,pitch etc. and yes i think i will have to bore out the center thanks. 
im searching now to confirm what i have for a rack.

im making my flywheels out of 21 inch 1 inch thick discs.


----------



## north1 (Sep 2, 2012)

I'm from europe and measures are in metric

rack and pinion are the module 4 20% angle (it does not matter what angle it is essential that both are the same)
# gear has 16 teeth (My gear is also had a smaller hole than necessary)
in gear is drilled 35mm hole with two channels for 8mm key
shaft is 35mm thick


----------



## yeknom (Sep 2, 2012)

thanks again north1 ive been studying up i think the free rack i have is a 14.5 10 pitch 1-1/4 wide face. i think i may have found the spur gear that will work.

Boston Gear NF24B-1 Spur Gear,14.5 Pressure Angle,Steel,Inch,10 Pitch,1.000" Bore,2.600" OD,1.000" Face Width,24 Teeth: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


----------



## north1 (Sep 4, 2012)

yeknom
# Perhaps this will help you

http://www.linngear.com/faq/techspecs/tech_specs.pdf


----------



## yeknom (Sep 4, 2012)

thanks typical internet too much info and now im confused hahaha thanks again


----------



## north1 (Sep 17, 2012)

test

Video - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting


----------



## north1 (Sep 29, 2012)

I managed to bend 35mm thick axle on my splitter


----------



## yeknom (Sep 30, 2012)

wow really? i was considering going with a 1inch shaft! re-design!


----------



## north1 (Sep 30, 2012)

Choosing the wrong material for the shaft


----------



## Orangejbird (Nov 11, 2012)

Very interesting thread. Would like to see photos from more angles especially around the engagement mechanism.
Any updates?


----------



## north1 (Nov 12, 2012)

The mechanism is the same as the Dr Rapid Fire or Supersplit


----------



## Orangejbird (Nov 12, 2012)

north1 said:


> The mechanism is the same as the Dr Rapid Fire or Supersplit



I know it is, and that's not what i asked for.
"a picture speaks . . . "


----------



## brenndatomu (Nov 12, 2012)

Orangejbird said:


> I know it is, and that's not what i asked for.
> "a picture speaks . . . "



Is this what you are looking for? 43 seconds in until about 55-60 sec. gives a good look at the mechanism. Under the Hood - DR RapidFire Log Splitters - YouTube


----------



## yeknom (Dec 5, 2012)

i just picked up 2 HUGE 1-7/16 bore pillow blocks, a martin spur gear with 1-7/16 id, im making 2 21inch steel flywheels 1 inch thick approximate 97 pounds each... all a bit over kill but i will post some pics once i get things started.


----------



## north1 (Dec 6, 2012)

my flywheels are 100 paunds each 
my problem with shaft is because I chose wrong material he bent a little and it's the reason because I purposely forceful to test it
my shaft is 35 mm thick


----------



## yeknom (Dec 6, 2012)

remind me again what material did you use for the shaft?


----------



## north1 (Dec 6, 2012)

DIN C 45 


http://www.sinama.com.tw/page11.html


----------



## Cmccul8146 (Dec 6, 2012)

yeknom said:


> i just picked up 2 HUGE 1-7/16 bore pillow blocks, a martin spur gear with 1-7/16 id, im making 2 21inch steel flywheels 1 inch thick approximate 97 pounds each... all a bit over kill but i will post some pics once i get things started.



Your flywheels will be plenty heavy, BUT, you won't get full advantage of that weight. You need a thicker flywheel that is relieved on the sides so that the MAJORITY of the weight is toward the OD. Also 1 inch wide flywheel isn't going to give much surface for belts to run.


----------



## yeknom (Dec 7, 2012)

i hear ya on all those points but the flywheels are free (i run a cnc plasma/oxy table) as for the belt i plan to run a pulley at the end of the shaft that way i can change the size of pulleys to change the speed until i find the right speed running speed. actually so far i have nothing for money into collecting the parts rack,pinion,2 bearings, flywheels, free! i will be ordering a keyed shaft from mcmaster carr.


----------



## yeknom (Dec 7, 2012)

but i dont like the idea of the 21'' flywheels because of height and bullk and i will look to see if i could do 4 15'' discs stacked in keyed etc. just a thought...


----------



## north1 (Dec 7, 2012)

yeknom said:


> i hear ya on all those points but the flywheels are free (i run a cnc plasma/oxy table) as for the belt i plan to run a pulley at the end of the shaft that way i can change the size of pulleys to change the speed until i find the right speed running speed. actually so far i have nothing for money into collecting the parts rack,pinion,2 bearings, flywheels, free! i *will be ordering a keyed shaft from mcmaster carr*.



what kind of material would you recommend for the shaft


----------



## yeknom (Jan 27, 2013)

im unsure what material the shaft is but i ordered a 18'' long fully keyed 1-7/16'' shaft non hardened, it might fail but my thought and plan is that i cram the pillow block bearings and sprocket/hub and flywheels as close together to center to fight the possibility of bending the shaft. make sense? i had my flywheels turned and balanced by a friend , i am now running 4 14.5''x 1'' flywheels they look friggen awesome how do i post pictures on here?


----------



## yeknom (Oct 13, 2014)

wow its been a year and a half since i worked on this thing! time to get back into it!


----------

