# My Vertical Log Splitter with Table and Log Lift



## iowa (Sep 21, 2014)

This is the beginning of another splitter build. I converted a 28ton swisher a few yrs ago to do the same. However, this one will be much better.
Hyd log lift
Hyd main beam lift into position
14.5hp electric start generac
16gpm pump
4"x24"x2" main ram cylinder.

Should be fun!


How the heck do you attach pictures on here now? It's changed since the hack attack last yr. I click upload a file and it says there's an error.....


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## Tiewire (Sep 22, 2014)

opcorn:


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## iowa (Sep 22, 2014)

I would post pictures, but I keep getting an error window that pops up. I've tried changing the file name. I have made the pictures small. No luck. Any ideas? I've never had an issue before this place got hacked last yr.


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## zogger (Sep 22, 2014)

I don't allow javascript on the site, but the upload a file works flawlessly without it, albeit as an attachment, not inline. It automagically resizes it as well. Well, it jpeg compresses it, you lose a little definition.

Turn JS off in your browser, clear cache, reload page, try it again.


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## Hedgerow (Sep 22, 2014)

You could text em' to me and I could post em'...


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## iowa (Sep 22, 2014)

Already did.


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## Hedgerow (Sep 22, 2014)

3 photos...


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## UpOnTheHill (Sep 22, 2014)

Looking great! Subscribed opcorn:


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## bigbadbob (Sep 22, 2014)

I need your H beam measurement, I need to compare to my build.
How many tons you gonna have.
I have gathered most parts.
thanks
BBB


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## iowa (Sep 22, 2014)

bigbadbob said:


> I need your H beam measurement, I need to compare to my build.
> How many tons you gonna have.
> I have gathered most parts.
> thanks
> BBB


It's an I beam really. It is 5 1/4" wide, 8 1/4" tall. web is 3/8" thick and flanges are 7/16". I should have around 20-22 tons of pressure with my set-up. I'm looking for more speed than beef . IMO if you know how to split wood anything over 22 tons is probably over kill.


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## stihly dan (Sep 22, 2014)

Glade to see you back, haven't seen you on here in awhile.


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## bigbadbob (Sep 22, 2014)

Thanks for that info, I have a GX390 free, 5.5 OD cylinder with 2.75 rod 28 stroke 3/4 fittings 40 bucks 200 lbs!!! , 22gpm pump
honda civic axle. Need to get a few more items.
BBB


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## iowa (Sep 22, 2014)

stihly dan said:


> Glade to see you back, haven't seen you on here in awhile.


Thanks Dan! Last yr I was busy getting all my reloading stuff set-up in my basement in front of my warm Kuuma Vaporfire 100. Plus every time I tried getting on this site it seemed like it was hacked and was way more hassle than it should have to post something!!


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## iowa (Sep 23, 2014)

What's your guys thoughts on using a engine hoist hydraulic jack to set the main beam into place from laying down to vertical position instead of using a regular hydraulic cylinder? 

I've found out today that my 3 spool valve won't work. It has detent on one spool but no pressure release on that spool. So it would continue to build pressure at end of stroke and not go back to center. So thinking about going with a 2 spool and long shaft engine hydraulic jack. Or 2 spool with power beyond and a single spool located in a different spot for the main beam lift..


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## nathon918 (Sep 24, 2014)

iowa said:


> What's your guys thoughts on using a engine hoist hydraulic jack to set the main beam into place from laying down to vertical position instead of using a regular hydraulic cylinder?
> 
> I've found out today that my 3 spool valve won't work. It has detent on one spool but no pressure release on that spool. So it would continue to build pressure at end of stroke and not go back to center. So thinking about going with a 2 spool and long shaft engine hydraulic jack. Or 2 spool with power beyond and a single spool located in a different spot for the main beam lift..


 call Prince and tell them what you want to do with the RD5300 valve you already have, all it needs is a different spool, heres the manual for the RD5000 series valves, http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/valves/RD5000Manual.pdf (spool options on pages 10-16) it would be much cheaper than a new valve...


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## iowa (Sep 24, 2014)

nathon918 said:


> call Prince and tell them what you want to do with the RD5300 valve you already have, all it needs is a different spool, heres the manual for the RD5000 series valves, http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/valves/RD5000Manual.pdf (spool options on pages 10-16) it would be much cheaper than a new valve...


I emailed them yesterday and asked if I could send it in to have it retrofitted for that. He told me no. Said it had to be machined a certain way and I would need to purchase a new one.


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## iowa (Sep 24, 2014)

Cylinder came today. Poor UPS man......


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## Hedgerow (Sep 25, 2014)




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## bigbadbob (Sep 25, 2014)

Mine is pretty close to yours.
BBB


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## iowa (Sep 25, 2014)

How thick should the foot be? 1 1/2" or 2"?


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## iowa (Sep 26, 2014)

I went heavy.. 2" foot. That shouldn't bend!!!


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## Hddnis (Sep 26, 2014)

iowa said:


> I went heavy.. 2" foot. That shouldn't bend!!!



It will at least take a lot to bend it!



Mr. HE


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## iowa (Sep 26, 2014)

pic
Cylinder Anchor. Will be bolted and welded to beam.


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## jthornton (Sep 27, 2014)

Looking Good! I love my Kant-Twist clamps but they don't have much holding pressure...


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## iowa (Sep 28, 2014)

Spent a little time on the splitter over the weekend. Will be picking up the foot, tubing, and wedge metal on tues after work. 

Did some CAD drawings on the thing to figure out the motion of the beam from splitting mode to transport mode. I have a 2" bore 14" stroke with 1" shaft for moving it. I decided to put a 12" long lever off the back of the beam. It is tricky to get it to move exactly 90 degrees with what I have. It is almost laying flat when the cylinder is fully pulled in. I will make a cradle for the beam to rest in during transport mode.


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## iowa (Sep 29, 2014)

Does anyone have any input on the beam movement? Do you guys think that it is mechanically safe or sound? 

The hole at the very bottom and hole on the lever are mounting points for the cylinder. The cylinder isn't drawn in there yet.


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## triptester (Sep 29, 2014)

Mounting the cylinder to the 12" lever seems like a weak point. The lever will be subject to a lot of force. With the short stroke of the cylinder there will be a lot of stress on the pivot point and the cylinder mounts due to the leverage of the beam length and cylinder weight.
On your first conversion I believe you went with a retractable cylinder with a fixed beam instead of the full beam.


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## iowa (Sep 29, 2014)

triptester said:


> Mounting the cylinder to the 12" lever seems like a weak point. The lever will be subject to a lot of force. With the short stroke of the cylinder there will be a lot of stress on the pivot point and the cylinder mounts due to the leverage of the beam length and cylinder weight.
> On your first conversion I believe you went with a retractable cylinder with a fixed beam instead of the full beam.


 What do you suggest I do to move this 90deg or close to it with a cylinder that strokes 14"? 
Keep in mind it will only be moved twice in an outing for splitting. UP and then back down to store or transport. It will be pinned in the vertical position and set in a cradle for storage.


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## nathon918 (Sep 30, 2014)

iowa said:


> What do you suggest I do to move this 90deg or close to it with a cylinder that strokes 14"?
> Keep in mind it will only be moved twice in an outing for splitting. UP and then back down to store or transport. It will be pinned in the vertical position and set in a cradle for storage.


 i think something more like this would give you better results and allow it full 90 deg. movement. i dont have cad so this is my great "paint work" haha


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## iowa (Sep 30, 2014)

nathon918 said:


> View attachment 371116
> 
> i think something more like this would give you better results and allow it full 90 deg. movement. i dont have cad so this is my great "paint work" haha


Good idea. But in the transport mode, the cylinder is in a horrible mechanical position.


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## nathon918 (Sep 30, 2014)

iowa said:


> Good idea. But in the transport mode, the cylinder is in a horrible mechanical position.


 why?


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## iowa (Sep 30, 2014)

nathon918 said:


> why?


I think that if the mounting location of the base was moved towards the beam and the beam mount was moved up it would be better mechanical advantage.


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## FLRA_Dave (Sep 30, 2014)

I don't think that it is really going to take that much force to raise the beam. A setup similar to a scissor lift for a dump trailer would also work. What CAD package are you using? 2D?


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## iowa (Sep 30, 2014)

FLRA_Dave said:


> I don't think that it is really going to take that much force to raise the beam. A setup similar to a scissor lift for a dump trailer would also work. What CAD package are you using? 2D?


I have Auto CAD R14


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## nathon918 (Sep 30, 2014)

iowa said:


> I think that if the mounting location of the base was moved towards the beam and the beam mount was moved up it would be better mechanical advantage.


 not really... the way you have it drawn is about the same, from the beam piviot point to cylinder base piviot point is about the same distance (if drawing is to scale or close to scale) as what i drew from the cylinder rod piviot to the beam piviot, which in BOTH configurations is the downside of the design...
im looking at it as a dump bed and to give it the full 90 deg. motion, you could make it a "scissor" type lift but thats alot of unnessary moving parts and extra work...
heres a pic of how most non scissor type dump cylinders are configured weather 1 or multiple cylinders


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## iowa (Sep 30, 2014)

nathon918 said:


> View attachment 371177
> 
> not really... the way you have it drawn is about the same, from the beam piviot point to cylinder base piviot point is about the same distance (if drawing is to scale or close to scale) as what i drew from the cylinder rod piviot to the beam piviot, which in BOTH configurations is the downside of the design...
> im looking at it as a dump bed and to give it the full 90 deg. motion, you could make it a "scissor" type lift but thats alot of unnessary moving parts and extra work...
> heres a pic of how most non scissor type dump cylinders are configured weather 1 or multiple cylinders


So I messed around with mounting the cylinder that way for an hour when I got home today. I couldn't get it to work right and come close to laying the beam down flat that way. Not without having the beam mount about 4" from the pivot point which would be a really bad thing. The only way I could do it is having the cylinder mount dropped down below the trailer, which would end up being a ground clearance issue. 

I ended up drawing it up very similar to my first attempt. However, I shortened the lever from 12" to 6". Much more sturdy and beam will come close to laying down flat.


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## nathon918 (Sep 30, 2014)

4 inches from the beam pivot? that would only equal around 5.75" of stroke out of the cylinder...


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## iowa (Sep 30, 2014)

Cylinder extended between pins is 38". Retracted it is 24". Beam pivot point is 12.5" above trailer rails. There is no good mounting points on beam or trailer to make it work well UNLESS you drop the cylinder mount point below trailer deck. Ground clearance becomes an issue and also hyd lines dragging. 

Notice in the picture you posted. The cylinder mount points are well below the deck bed.


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## FLRA_Dave (Sep 30, 2014)

Isn't the pivot point being 12.5" above the trailer rails the equivalent of mounting the cylinders below the deck bed on the dump trailer?


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## jthornton (Oct 1, 2014)

I struggled with this for a long time with my splitter and finally gave up on the idea of using a cylinder to raise the beam. I was using Solidworks 3-d modeling to try and find a solution. I finally decided to make a turnaround pulley for the reaction plate and use the splitting cylinder to raise the beam by hooking a chain on it and going around the pulley to the frame below.

JT


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## FLRA_Dave (Oct 1, 2014)

This is essentially how my grapple clamp is. Should work right? The mounts are 2" off the surface of the beam. This was going off of 12.5" high pivot and a cylinder with 38" extended length and 24" retracted length. Everything else I made assumptions on.


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## FLRA_Dave (Oct 1, 2014)

This one is a little busy, but here are some additional dimensions.


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## nathon918 (Oct 1, 2014)

FLRA_Dave said:


> This is essentially how my grapple clamp is. Should work right? The mounts are 2" off the surface of the beam. This was going off of 12.5" high pivot and a cylinder with 38" extended length and 24" retracted length. Everything else I made assumptions on.


 and even if the cylinder was reversed like i had it, it would work the same, just the rod end pivot to the beam pivot would have to be the same distance as you have the cylinder end pivot from the beam pivot...


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## iowa (Oct 1, 2014)

FLRA_Dave said:


> This is essentially how my grapple clamp is. Should work right? The mounts are 2" off the surface of the beam. This was going off of 12.5" high pivot and a cylinder with 38" extended length and 24" retracted length. Everything else I made assumptions on.


This is almost exactly how I have it drawn up now. Thanks for the drawings!


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## iowa (Oct 1, 2014)

nathon918 said:


> and even if the cylinder was reversed like i had it, it would work the same, just the rod end pivot to the beam pivot would have to be the same distance as you have the cylinder end pivot from the beam pivot...


With only 14" of stroke it doesn't work well. Not very good set-up IMO.


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## FLRA_Dave (Oct 1, 2014)

nathon918 said:


> and even if the cylinder was reversed like i had it, it would work the same, just the rod end pivot to the beam pivot would have to be the same distance as you have the cylinder end pivot from the beam pivot...



I tried it like that at first, but the stroke wasn't working out, and there looked to be an issue of the 3 points nearly being all in line with each other when collapsed.


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## iowa (Oct 1, 2014)

FLRA_Dave said:


> I tried it like that at first, but the stroke wasn't working out, and there looked to be an issue of the 3 points nearly being all in line with each other when collapsed.


Yes. I tried for over an hour moving the points all over. Nothing worked right to use the entire cylinder stroke.


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## nathon918 (Oct 1, 2014)

iowa said:


> Yes. I tried for over an hour moving the points all over. Nothing worked right to use the entire cylinder stroke.


 just becase you can figure it out, doesnt mean it doesnt work... the way i had it the rod mount on the beam should be around 10" from beam pivot, and the cylinder base mount would be around 32" laterally from the center line of the beam pivot, that would leave you with about an inch of overstroke and 1/2" of stroke left when in the down position.
its hard to figure out exact measurements because i dont have all of the measurements...

either way will work fine, and a 14 inch stroke cylinder is more than enough for what youre doing. just for comparisons, the log lift on the splitter i built is capable of nearly 180 deg. of movement with just an 18" stroke cylinder, and will lift over 1000 lbs. (only a 2-1/2" cylinder), and the distance between the lift pivot ans the cylinder pivot is less than 8"...


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## jthornton (Oct 1, 2014)

The geometry of this works for me. I used SolidWorks.
JT


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## iowa (Oct 1, 2014)

nathon918 said:


> just becase you can figure it out, doesnt mean it doesnt work... the way i had it the rod mount on the beam should be around 10" from beam pivot, and the cylinder base mount would be around 32" laterally from the center line of the beam pivot, that would leave you with about an inch of overstroke and 1/2" of stroke left when in the down position.
> its hard to figure out exact measurements because i dont have all of the measurements...
> 
> either way will work fine, and a 14 inch stroke cylinder is more than enough for what youre doing. just for comparisons, the log lift on the splitter i built is capable of nearly 180 deg. of movement with just an 18" stroke cylinder, and will lift over 1000 lbs. (only a 2-1/2" cylinder), and the distance between the lift pivot ans the cylinder pivot is less than 8"...


I don't want to be an A**. But I used Cad and had it drawn many times. Yes you can do it that way. However, you will not be able to use the cylinder fully. It just doesn't work out. Your illustration of the dump bed isn't exactly what we are doing here either. I don't know, but I've never seen a dump bed go from laying flat to 90 degrees. Think the most they go is 45 degrees to dump? Not sure. Never owned one before.


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## iowa (Oct 1, 2014)

nathon918 said:


> just becase you can figure it out, doesnt mean it doesnt work... the way i had it the rod mount on the beam should be around 10" from beam pivot, and the cylinder base mount would be around 32" laterally from the center line of the beam pivot, that would leave you with about an inch of overstroke and 1/2" of stroke left when in the down position.
> its hard to figure out exact measurements because i dont have all of the measurements...
> 
> either way will work fine, and a 14 inch stroke cylinder is more than enough for what youre doing. just for comparisons, the log lift on the splitter i built is capable of nearly 180 deg. of movement with just an 18" stroke cylinder, and will lift over 1000 lbs. (only a 2-1/2" cylinder), and the distance between the lift pivot ans the cylinder pivot is less than 8"...


Have pics of the underside? mounts etc?


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## nathon918 (Oct 1, 2014)

iowa said:


> I don't want to be an A**. But I used Cad and had it drawn many times. Yes you can do it that way. However, you will not be able to use the cylinder fully. It just doesn't work out. Your illustration of the dump bed isn't exactly what we are doing here either. I don't know, but I've never seen a dump bed go from laying flat to 90 degrees. Think the most they go is 45 degrees to dump? Not sure. Never owned one before.


 they dont need to go 90 deg. they only need to go enough to dump the **** out of the bed...longer cylinders would make it go 90...
if you take your drawing and turn it upside down its esentally the same instead you would be pushing the trailer frame up and not the beam.
BTW CAD is just a tool or "aid" as in the name... it wont engineer it for you!


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## nathon918 (Oct 1, 2014)

iowa said:


> Have pics of the underside? mounts etc?


 i dont have any here but ill get some pics of it tonight in the up (travel) position, and the load position.


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## nathon918 (Oct 1, 2014)

nathon918 said:


> they dont need to go 90 deg. they only need to go enough to dump the **** out of the bed...longer cylinders would make it go 90...
> if you take your drawing and turn it upside down its esentally the same instead you would be pushing the trailer frame up and not the beam.
> BTW CAD is just a tool or "aid" as in the name... it wont engineer it for you!


 i meant if you take the way i drew it, it would be esentally the same as yous but upside down


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## nathon918 (Oct 1, 2014)

iowa said:


> Have pics of the underside? mounts etc?


here ya go...


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## iowa (Oct 2, 2014)

NIce Log lift


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## iowa (Oct 2, 2014)

I ended up getting 1 1/2" thick x 12" wide and 18" long for the foot. I think its even way over kill. 2" thick would have just been stupid! 
Got 2 rails welded in tonight after work. Ready to mount the base that will hold the beam. Will have a lot of it done over the weekend. Most parts are all machined and ready for welding!


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## jthornton (Oct 3, 2014)

Looking Good! 

What was the frame from?

JT


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## iowa (Oct 3, 2014)

jthornton said:


> Looking Good!
> 
> What was the frame from?
> 
> JT


I had a 4x8 trailer that I used to haul wood in up to the house with. The floor and sides all rotted and I found the tiny 12" wheels to be not heavy enough for a cord of wood! So I found a heavier trailer for that duty and now using this frame for my splitter. Worked out great.


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## daddy (Oct 3, 2014)

Hedgerow said:


> View attachment 370365
> 
> 
> View attachment 370366


Sorry, I haven't followed this thread, just saw the pic of the cylinder, and to me it looks like an air cylinder rated for a couple hundred pounds of pressure, and not a hydraulic cylinder rated for a couple thousand pounds. Not trying to be a jerk, just don't want to see someone get hurt. Please correct me if I am mistaken.


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## iowa (Oct 3, 2014)

daddy said:


> Sorry, I haven't followed this thread, just saw the pic of the cylinder, and to me it looks like an air cylinder rated for a couple hundred pounds of pressure, and not a hydraulic cylinder rated for a couple thousand pounds. Not trying to be a jerk, just don't want to see someone get hurt. Please correct me if I am mistaken.


Ugh. No. Not an air cylinder. Hydraulic rated for 3500psi. 4" bore, 24" stroke, and 2" shaft.


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## iowa (Oct 4, 2014)

Did some work on the splitter today. Got the beam base weld up and also the wedge is welded but not pictured.


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## iowa (Oct 4, 2014)

More Pics


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## iowa (Oct 5, 2014)

Got the cylinder mounted that will raise and lower the beam into position. It takes it 90deg perfectly!! Using every bit of the stroke. Goes just past center of vertical to help put pin in. LOVE IT!!


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## iowa (Oct 5, 2014)

Wedge bolted on beam. The cutting edge of the wedge is 4140. After it was welded onto the other piece of steel it made it pretty hard. Should wear really well.


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## iowa (Oct 6, 2014)

Mounted engine and hyd tank tonight. Engine runs!! Need a tank though or it may get old refilling that small funnel all the time!


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## Mike from Maine (Oct 7, 2014)

What are the specs for the engine pump and cylinder?


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## jthornton (Oct 7, 2014)

iowa said:


> Got the cylinder mounted that will raise and lower the beam into position. It takes it 90deg perfectly!! Using every bit of the stroke. Goes just past center of vertical to help put pin in. LOVE IT!!


That looks so much like my splitter I need to get a cylinder on it to raise it up.

JT


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## iowa (Oct 7, 2014)

jthornton said:


> That looks so much like my splitter I need to get a cylinder on it to raise it up.
> 
> JT


This is what I wanted to do several yrs ago with my first vertical splitter with table. However, lack of funding and time was an issue then. So your build is exactly what I had in mind yrs ago, just never got to it! I think yours is built quite a bit heavier though! Good God!!!!! 

Yes. The cylinder will help. I can lift the beam into place WITHOUT the main ram on it. You put that heavy thing on it, plus oil and a valve. NO WAY.


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## iowa (Oct 7, 2014)

Mike from Maine said:


> What are the specs for the engine pump and cylinder?


Refer to very first post of this thread. Specs are listed.


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## jthornton (Oct 7, 2014)

iowa said:


> This is what I wanted to do several yrs ago with my first vertical splitter with table. However, lack of funding and time was an issue then. So your build is exactly what I had in mind yrs ago, just never got to it! I think yours is built quite a bit heavier though! Good God!!!!!
> 
> Yes. The cylinder will help. I can lift the beam into place WITHOUT the main ram on it. You put that heavy thing on it, plus oil and a valve. NO WAY.



What geometry did you end up using?

JT


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## iowa (Oct 7, 2014)

jthornton said:


> What geometry did you end up using?
> 
> JT


I ended up using a bracket that had a hole 2.5" out welded to the beam. The base bracket is 3.5" out from edge of beam. 

What I did was tack weld the base bracket on to the frame. Pin the cylinder and extend it out. I set some shims under my beam base so that the beam was tilted past center when cylinder was fully extended. Clamped the bracket and tack welded it in place. Then we layed the beam down to see how it worked. It layed perfectly flat and would even go just past if I wanted it to. 

This is the weird part. I drew this up exactly how I have it now and in CAD it shows that my beam should lay at an 11deg angle. Oh well. The outcome was better than I thought. So I'm happy.


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## iowa (Oct 8, 2014)

Found this splitter on YouTube. Pretty nice unit. I like how it throttles down when you're not using the hydro's. It was similar to mine using that cable for the log lift. I never had a catch system on my lift though. So every time I stroked the cylinder it would go up and down.


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## iowa (Oct 11, 2014)

Made the frame for the table today. Hopefully do the log lift tomorrow. Have to screw the top down too.


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## iowa (Oct 14, 2014)

Log lift is now fabricated and tacked welded together. Will need to add cylinder mounts etc. But it should work good. Plenty heavy!


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## iowa (Oct 18, 2014)

It's getting closer. I just ordered all the hydraulic fittings for it. Will need to fabricate a steel gas tank for it yet and hose it.


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## iowa (Oct 18, 2014)

Upright in splitting mode.


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## triptester (Oct 19, 2014)

Looking real nice. Have you considered extending the table top over the tires for more work area.


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## iowa (Oct 19, 2014)

triptester said:


> Looking real nice. Have you considered extending the table top over the tires for more work area.


No. My previous table was 2' deep and 4' wide. This is 32" deep and 4' wide. I never had an issue with the other splitter and table space.


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## triptester (Oct 19, 2014)

I have a 2 foot deep by 5 1/2 foot wide table. It allows stacking splits on the side until I get a arm full.


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## jthornton (Oct 19, 2014)

Looking Good!

JT


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## iowa (Oct 19, 2014)

triptester said:


> I have a 2 foot deep by 5 1/2 foot wide table. It allows stacking splits on the side until I get a arm full.


If I'm splitting away from home the splits are tossed on my flatbed trailer. If I'm at home they get tossed where they're stacked or my kids take the wood and stack it.


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## triptester (Oct 19, 2014)

You're lucky to have help usually I'm working alone and pushing 70 picking splits off the ground gets tiring fast.


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## iowa (Oct 19, 2014)

Yes. My kids help out quite a bit when they can. I'm sure it won't be long and I will be doing what you do.


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## Wood Doctor (Oct 20, 2014)

triptester said:


> You're lucky to have help usually I'm working alone and pushing 70 picking splits off the ground gets tiring fast.


Operate horizontal. Put a chair next to the end of the splitter. Drop temporary large splits that need another pass onto a strong chair with a back and no arms. Throw the final splits into a wheelbarrow. If the first round log is too heavy to lift, save that for vertical operation or noodle cut it in half. That's my procedure. It seems to work for me -- yet another lone wolf splitter operator.


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## iowa (Oct 20, 2014)

Wood Doctor said:


> Operate horizontal. Put a chair next to the end of the splitter. Drop temporary large splits that need another pass onto a strong chair with a back and no arms. Throw the final splits into a wheelbarrow. If the first round log is too heavy to lift, save that for vertical operation or noodle cut it in half. That's my procedure. It seems to work for me -- yet another lone wolf splitter operator.


He has a vertical splitter with table similar to what I just built.


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## iowa (Oct 26, 2014)

I finished the log splitter this weekend. Every thing works great. I'm still looking to add a tool box to it though to keep chains, oil, bars, and maybe a saw or 2 in it..


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## iowa (Oct 26, 2014)

more pics


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## triptester (Oct 26, 2014)

Looks good . How is the tongue weight when in the travel position?


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## iowa (Oct 26, 2014)

triptester said:


> Looks good . How is the tongue weight when in the travel position?


It's not bad at all. I can lift it and I'm a skinny rail.


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## jthornton (Oct 28, 2014)

Looking real good!


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## iowa (Nov 3, 2014)

Short video of the log splitter running Sat @Hedgerow GTG.


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## Hedgerow (Nov 3, 2014)

I loved that splitter!!!
I think everybody did..
Wanna trade??


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## sunfish (Nov 3, 2014)

Yes, that is a Nice splitter! I didn't get to run it, but did watch it...


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## iowa (Nov 3, 2014)

Hedgerow said:


> I loved that splitter!!!
> I think everybody did..
> Wanna trade??


No trade. Lol. 
Bring yours by and let's build it into something just like it!


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## firebrick43 (Nov 11, 2014)

I am really surprised that no american manufacture makes something similar to these vertical table splitters. Then again the old farmers around here thought I was certifiably insane when trying to convey what I was going to build. Some that have seen it recently have stated "well that might work?" Imagination of American wood splitter manufactures seems more limited compared to the Europeans and Australians.


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## iowa (Nov 11, 2014)

firebrick43 said:


> I am really surprised that no american manufacture makes something similar to these vertical table splitters. Then again the old farmers around here thought I was certifiably insane when trying to convey what I was going to build. Some that have seen it recently have stated "well that might work?" Imagination of American wood splitter manufactures seems more limited compared to the Europeans and Australians.


Yeah. I don't know why someone here in the States don't build these. Like you, I have a hard time explaining how it all works to people at work, etc. Even after I draw them a picture or show them pictures. The very first thing they say is! " can you lay it horizontal and split the wood?" LOL.


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## Sandhill Crane (Nov 11, 2014)

I'm with you. I do not understand the big boy splitter design that when operated and loaded by one person, you have to walk around the machine to load the lift, and back again to operate it. I've never been around one, or run one. Just looking at the youtube videos. Add a pile of splits, or a conveyor, at the out feed end means walking around the tongue end each time, AND BACK. I'd like to run one to get a first hand feel for it. I'd like to try Iowa's also to compare.


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## nathon918 (Nov 11, 2014)

Sandhill Crane said:


> I'm with you. I do not understand the big boy splitter design that when operated and loaded by one person, you have to walk around the machine to load the lift, and back again to operate it. I've never been around one, or run one. Just looking at the youtube videos. Add a pile of splits, or a conveyor, at the out feed end means walking around the tongue end each time, AND BACK. I'd like to run one to get a first hand feel for it. I'd like to try Iowa's also to compare.


you should run one, you can load up the lift with smaller rounds and keep busy for 5-10 minutes, or one or two larger rounds and work those up, or a giant one and roll it into place instead of trying to slide it across the table to get it under the wedge. yeah walking around the machine isn't ideal but it only takes all of 3 seconds to walk around it... heres mine with small rounds on it, and it will lift anything until it tips itself over, (it weighs around #3200) have had 50" wet red oak it has lifted no problem, guess its more personal preference...


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## iowa (Nov 11, 2014)

I've had horizontal with lift before. Unless you have a helper , walking around machine gets really old. That's why I made what I did. Buck logs next to splitter, roll, split, stack. Done


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## jthornton (Nov 11, 2014)

Horizontal's make my back hurt from bending over...

JT


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## iowa (Nov 11, 2014)

jthornton said:


> Horizontal's make my back hurt from bending over...
> 
> JT


Me too. I enjoy standing up straight and not having to pick up stuff from ground!


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## nathon918 (Nov 11, 2014)

jthornton said:


> Horizontal's make my back hurt from bending over...
> 
> JT



in the video of "Iowa's" splitter he is more bent/leaning over always reaching for the spool or reaching for the wood, than I ever am working with my splitter...I just bring my lift up and have the round roll to me, no reaching, and my split spool is right at my side at about waist level so no reaching for that either.
also if either of your splitters were lower you would have to bend to use them, but you guys built them at a height you're comfortable with, the same would go for ANY type of splitter, saying that having a horizontal splitter is the reason your back hurts is just dumb!


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## iowa (Nov 11, 2014)

I built a horizontal that was correct height for me. Was still bent over. Having to reach across beam to log lift. That's not me in video either. I'm probably 5" taller. 

But you're right. Not every splitter will work for everyone. That's why I built custom for myself. Several at the Gtg said the valve handles maybe too tall for them to be comfortable. They're perfect for me. And Hedgerow!


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## nathon918 (Nov 11, 2014)

iowa said:


> I built a horizontal that was correct height for me. Was still bent over. Having to reach across beam to log lift. That's not me in video either. I'm probably 5" taller.
> 
> But you're right. Not every splitter will work for everyone. That's why I built custom for myself. Several at the Gtg said the valve handles maybe too tall for them to be comfortable. They're perfect for me. And Hedgerow!


sounds like a design flaw...lift didn't lift enough... my log lift rolls the rounds right to me or right onto the beam
cant tell on your new splitter, but does this log lift, lift past table level so it will roll the logs. or are you now walking instead of bending to get the rounds off the lift?


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## iowa (Nov 11, 2014)

Lift 


nathon918 said:


> sounds like a design flaw...lift didn't lift enough... my log lift rolls the rounds right to me or right onto the beam
> cant tell on your new splitter, but does this log lift, lift past table level so it will roll the logs. or are you now walking instead of bending to get the rounds off the lift?


Lift on horizontal would roll them on beam. After splitting one half do you leave the opposite side half just laying on table? Or do you walk around to pick up and put on lift again? No. You have to reach and bend over to get other half and move back on beam. 

My vertical lift will go vertical if you let it. Rounds roll right on table.


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## jthornton (Nov 12, 2014)

iowa said:


> Me too. I enjoy standing up straight and not having to pick up stuff from ground!


Yea, the horizontal I used was too low, and had the pusher on the cylinder so you were always chasing rounds to split again. Oh and the bending over made my back hurt. And yes, that is why I build one to suit me.







I just need to build my log lift and I'm done.

JT


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## triptester (Nov 12, 2014)

I have built 5 vertical splitters and buyers waiting, but I have too many projects.


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## Hinerman (Nov 12, 2014)

iowa said:


> Short video of the log splitter running Sat @Hedgerow GTG.




I got to use this splitter at Hedgefest. I liked everything about it,,,,a lot. I was pleasantly surprised with the ergonomics and efficiency of operation. I am 5'10" and the elevated controls did not bother me; In fact, I liked where the controls were. After several hours of splitting my shoulder might have a different opinion. I envy all of you welder/fabricators. If you are looking to fabricate a splitter, look very seriously at this design. It is much better than the standard splitter design.


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## nathon918 (Nov 12, 2014)

iowa said:


> Lift
> 
> Lift on horizontal would roll them on beam. After splitting one half do you leave the opposite side half just laying on table? Or do you walk around to pick up and put on lift again? No. You have to reach and bend over to get other half and move back on beam.
> 
> My vertical lift will go vertical if you let it. Rounds roll right on table.


not sure how a lift like yours will go vertical with the way you configured your cylinder?? maybe 20 degrees or so but nowhere near 90


as for the "far" half of the round, near the end of the stroke I take my left hand and flop it back onto the lift, no bending, just extending my arm, and for the monster rounds I put my lift up and it holds the half against the wedge until I get the half closest to me situated. oh well you like what you got , and I like what I got.


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## iowa (Nov 12, 2014)

My lift will go 45deg past horizontal with cylinder hooked up. Unpin the cylinder it goes 90 degrees to the table...


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## nathon918 (Nov 12, 2014)

iowa said:


> Unpin the cylinder it goes 90 degrees to the table...


 ...


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## Hedgerow (Dec 18, 2014)

iowa said:


> I've had horizontal with lift before. Unless you have a helper , walking around machine gets really old. That's why I made what I did. Buck logs next to splitter, roll, split, stack. Done


If you're gonna use a single wedge for splitting, I'd go with the vertical just like you built in a heartbeat.. It's just damn comfortable to use, and I'm 6'5"... 
I've decided though, after the Wisconsin charity cut, the design I got and the 4 way wedge were priceless when conditions are right...
So I'm probably gonna just roll with it... Even if 50% of the time, I'd rather have the vertical...


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## sunfish (Dec 18, 2014)

jthornton said:


> Horizontal's make my back hurt from bending over...
> 
> JT


I rarely have to bend over using my horizontal. 
Work table and everything on the SS just right height for me at 5-10.


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## Hedgerow (Dec 18, 2014)

sunfish said:


> I rarely have to bend over using my horizontal.
> Work table and everything on the SS just right height for me at 5-10.


I'm gonna have one of those some day, just because...


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## iowa (Dec 18, 2014)

Hedgerow said:


> I'm gonna have one of those some day, just because...


Think you need 3 splitters. Vertical, horizontal, and SS. 

For me the SS needs to be raised 6" for it to be comfortable.


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## Hedgerow (Dec 18, 2014)

iowa said:


> Think you need 3 splitters. Vertical, horizontal, and SS.
> 
> For me the SS needs to be raised 6" for it to be comfortable.


Me too...
But I know someone who can do that...
Ported saws...
Custom splitters...
BAM!!


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## bcvickers (Dec 19, 2014)

For you guys that have built and used these types of splitters; have you given any thought to the value of a boom type log lift with a winch on it rather than the flipper style? I'm trying to think ahead and it seems like it might be easier to just pull the cable and grapple to a round that's anywhere within say a 20' semi-circle rather than having to roll it to the flipper. Maybe I'm just getting lazy?

Oh and I was also wondering why I don't see any alternate hydraulic controls like foot operated or even knee operated like some muffler shop tubing benders?


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## triptester (Dec 19, 2014)

A boom and winch could be an option but it would be slow and probably require outriggers. Commercial models do come with knee and/or foot controls.

Vertical table mount splitters are common outside the USA.


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## fred bergman (Jan 22, 2015)

thanks for sharing


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## torence 20 (Jan 23, 2015)

iowa said:


> It's an I beam really. It is 5 1/4" wide, 8 1/4" tall. web is 3/8" thick and flanges are 7/16". I should have around 20-22 tons of pressure with my set-up. I'm looking for more speed than beef . IMO if you know how to split wood anything over 22 tons is probably over kill.


iv got a 20 ton iron and oak and ive never had a problem splitting anything


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## Mr Anderson (Jan 25, 2015)

bcvickers said:


> For you guys that have built and used these types of splitters; have you given any thought to the value of a boom type log lift with a winch on it rather than the flipper style? I'm trying to think ahead and it seems like it might be easier to just pull the cable and grapple to a round that's anywhere within say a 20' semi-circle rather than having to roll it to the flipper. Maybe I'm just getting lazy?
> 
> Oh and I was also wondering why I don't see any alternate hydraulic controls like foot operated or even knee operated like some muffler shop tubing benders?



After much thought i built a vertical table wood splitter. I used the splitting ram to provide the force for the log lift. 
When the lift reaches just above horizontal a leg swings down a holds the lift horizontal. I designed it to split 1 m rounds and have split 1.3m rounds cut to 300m long. When on flat ground it is easy to pull the splitter down the length of trunks with lift on trunk side. I found the rounds to be quite manageable to get on the lift.
The control for ram mounted just below table. Push towards table to retract ram, which is often hip operated and indented. Pull away from the table and the ram lengthens. I did it this way for safety. I thought it would be safer than the leg operated option. The foot option seemed a little dangerous when on uneven ground.
mr Anderson


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## fred bergman (Feb 8, 2015)

great splitter


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