# I'm looking for a milling bar for an MS660



## Shawn Curry (May 12, 2015)

I'm looking for a BIG bar to help me mill this large black walnut over at my sister's house. The butt end of the log is 48" diameter. I've asked over in the classified section as well, and they suggested that I ask around here too.

Before I run out and buy a brand new one, I wanted to ask around here first. This may be the only time I'll ever need a bar this size; hopefully one of you folks has had the same dilemma and are looking to get rid of yours.

I'm not too concerned about condition, as long as it's serviceable, BIG, and fits the Stihl 3003 mount. I'm currently looking at a new 50" Cannon, which seems to be the limit for 3003 mount, short of going with a double-ended bar.

Let me know what you got, and what you need to get for it. Thanks!


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## BobL (May 12, 2015)

It's no problem to fit a bigger mount bar to the 3003 mount.
Adapters range from turned bushes to individual coil segments of thick springs.


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## Runknpap (May 12, 2015)

Go really slow with a bar that big on a 660. I was told the biggest bar you can get away with on a 660 is a 42 inch bar. So I bought one of thoes. And even that is pretty slow going. Also look into a auxiliary oiler cause the stock oiler sucks With the 42 inch bar.


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## Yellowbeard (May 12, 2015)

First time I milled was either with a 660 or a 440 (I know, I know - pretty big difference). I was milling oak. It's a slow process with a "smaller" saw like that. Hell, it's going to be a slow process in that monster no matter what you use. Be careful when you say this is the only time you'll do this. I was skeptical when my buddy talked me into doing it (it was his saw I was mentioning earlier). That was 4-5 years and probably a couple of thousand dollars ago. Milling will lead you swiftly into CADus Mamimus (the lusting after and acquisition of chainsaws of the particularly large variety).

Looks like an absolutely beautiful piece of wood. I wish you luck and good milling.


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## Yellowbeard (May 12, 2015)

One other thing: Assuming you're going to use an Alaskan, a 50" bar won't get you through 48" worth of wood. If you are wanting a live edge, you're going to want to run around 6" larger than the largest part of the tree. You lose a bit to the mill itself. Also (and this is probably obvious but I thought I would throw it out there), Take your dawgs off to get a little bit more room (1.5" or so) on the bar.


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## Yellowbeard (May 12, 2015)

Last thing and I'll shut up for now (someone will likely correct me anyway). If it were me, I would be trying to rotate that log about 90 degrees from where it is lying now. I would want to see what the grain looked like in those bumps coming off the top and bottom (as it lies) of the trunk (cut off branches maybe?). Lot of interesting grain in a place like that in a walnut in my somewhat limited experience.


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## Shawn Curry (May 12, 2015)

Yellowbeard said:


> Last thing and I'll shut up for now (someone will likely correct me anyway). If it were me, I would be trying to rotate that log about 90 degrees from where it is lying now. I would want to see what the grain looked like in those bumps coming off the top and bottom (as it lies) of the trunk (cut off branches maybe?). Lot of interesting grain in a place like that in a walnut in my somewhat limited experience.



Yep, that was my plan too. I thought I had mentioned it here, but I guess it was in the classifieds. The bumps were a couple of massive crotches, and I think there's going to be some great pieces in there. That part of the trunk is about 5-6', then the nicest, straightest 8-10' section of the trunk is right above that. So I'm thinking I'll cut the nice piece off, right above the higher crotch, and then saw the lower piece in half, between the two crotches. Hopefully I can fit the granberg around it then.


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## betterbuilt (May 13, 2015)

Where in NY?


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## Shawn Curry (May 13, 2015)

betterbuilt said:


> Where in NY?


About 1/2 way between Rochester and Niagara Falls, and about 3 miles from the Lake Ontario shoreline.


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## betterbuilt (May 13, 2015)

Shawn Curry said:


> About 1/2 way between Rochester and Niagara Falls, and about 3 miles from the Lake Ontario shoreline.


Probably 2 hours from me. I was thinking if you were just down the road I'd just loan you a bar.


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## MGoodwin (May 13, 2015)

just this past weekend i was milling soft maple at about 33" wide with a 42" bar and a 066 with big bore, aux oiler on end. walnut is a bit harder i am sure, but my saw did fine. I was getting about 5-6" a minute (maybe a little faster while truly cutting). I have recently gotten myself a 66" double ended bar and had two 066's mounted while cutting the same tree about at 4' wide. huge power/speed increase. perhaps goes without saying, but sharp chains are everything.


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## Yellowbeard (May 13, 2015)

MGoodwin said:


> perhaps goes without saying, but sharp chains are everything.



bobl is always saying stuff like this. Makes me wish I didn't suck and sharpening.


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## BobL (May 13, 2015)

MGoodwin said:


> .. . . . I have recently gotten myself a 66" double ended bar and had two 066's mounted while cutting the same tree about at 4' wide. huge power/speed increase. perhaps goes without saying, but sharp chains are everything.



I'd like to know what you mean by "huge".
At a minimum my interpretation of "huge" would be something like improving the cutting speed by a factor of "two" but this simply will not happen with a dual head CSM because all chainsawing is "chain speed and raker limited".
A dual saw setup is not going to drive the chain any faster, but it will enable the saw to hold more RPM in the cut.
However, unless the rakers are also dropped significantly the chain is still not going to cut much.
So, I'n be interested to know what the actual improvement is in the cutting speed is (i.e. timed cuts) and what if anything you have done to the rakers.

FWIW, huge, for me, was going from an 880 chainsaw to a 27HP bandsaw mill.


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## cat10ken (May 14, 2015)

At a recent swap meet I purchased a 36" Alaskan mill with a 48" GB titanium double ended bar with A-3 chain. It fits Stihl saws, has the helper handle and auxiliary oiler. It is in like new condition and shows no wear. I would like to try chainsaw milling but have no use for such a long bar and chain so they are for sale. I will keep the Alaskan mill. I would like to know the value of this bar and chain combo. Also, how do measure the length, it might be 50"?
Thanks,
Ken


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## Shawn Curry (May 14, 2015)

cat10ken said:


> At a recent swap meet I purchased a 36" Alaskan mill with a 48" GB titanium double ended bar with A-3 chain. It fits Stihl saws, has the helper handle and auxiliary oiler. It is in like new condition and shows no wear. I would like to try chainsaw milling but have no use for such a long bar and chain so they are for sale. I will keep the Alaskan mill. I would like to know the value of this bar and chain combo. Also, how do measure the length, it might be 50"?
> Thanks,
> Ken



I think you need at least a 42" bar in order to get the max cut from the 36" mill. I'm not exactly sure how they measure the double ended bars, but if the total length is 48" to 50", including the extra mount, you might find that is exactly the bar you need to run it. You might regret selling that setup if you're keeping the mill. My MS660, with standard oiler maxed out, won't sufficiently oil a 28" bar when I'm milling. Adding the aux oiler bottle requires modifications to the bar - you need extra oil holes at the other end. I don't think that's necessary with the double end bars.

To buy all of that new it's about $100 for helper handle, $50 aux oiler setup, $350 bar, $50 chain, plus shipping. If you sold it, and then decided to buy it again later on, those are probably the prices you'll pay, because another used setup like that won't come along until at least 15 mins after you buy them somewhere else.


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## mdavlee (May 14, 2015)

I just drip oil on the tip end and it will pull it into the groove. No need to drill extra holes in the bar. The double ended one will have oil holes there any way


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## betterbuilt (May 14, 2015)

Shawn Curry said:


> you need extra oil holes at the other end. I don't think that's necessary with the double end bars.


No need to drill a hole. Just zip tie or fashion a bracket to hold the hose and the oil will find it's way into the bar. I'm sure someone has a picture of how to do this. A zip tie has worked for me.


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## Grey (May 14, 2015)

090 power head? Can you rent an 880 or 3120 ph? Your 660 is going to take a beating. I'd rather put that kind of mileage on someone else's equipment. Just a thought.


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## Shawn Curry (May 14, 2015)

Grey said:


> 090 power head? Can you rent an 880 or 3120 ph? Your 660 is going to take a beating. I'd rather put that kind of mileage on someone else's equipment. Just a thought.



I picked up that saw specifically for milling. It's been rebuilt and ported by Randy "Mastermind" Evans. It's like an 880, only 6 pounds lighter.  I have a few backup saws if that one blows up. I'm not aware of any place around here where I could rent a saw or bandmill "large enough to handle" this monster. Gotta make do what ya got. If it blows up, I'll buy another one.


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## MGoodwin (May 14, 2015)

BobL said:


> I'd like to know what you mean by "huge".
> At a minimum my interpretation of "huge" would be something like improving the cutting speed by a factor of "two" but this simply will not happen with a dual head CSM because all chainsawing is "chain speed and raker limited".
> A dual saw setup is not going to drive the chain any faster, but it will enable the saw to hold more RPM in the cut.
> However, unless the rakers are also dropped significantly the chain is still not going to cut much.
> ...



Huge perhaps wasnt an accurate word. I havent spent much time doing timed cuts but i would say I was doing about 7" a minute with the dual heads in 48" of cut versus 5-6" per minute with a 42" bar in 33" of cut. It was a noticeable improvement in cutting rates and just how hard the saws were working. In other words I felt that the dual setup there was a more forgiving sweet spot for feed pressure etc.


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## Grande Dog (May 14, 2015)

Howdy,
Are you looking for single ended http://leftcoastsupplies.com/?s=long+titanium+hs&post_type=product
or double ended http://leftcoastsupplies.com/?s=gbf+hsd&post_type=product
They both come in the 14mm large Stihl mount. The double enders come with the 14mm to 12mm adaptors but, if you go single ended, we have adapters available individually. http://leftcoastsupplies.com/product/gb-bar-stud-spacer/
Regards
Gregg


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## BobL (May 15, 2015)

MGoodwin said:


> Huge perhaps wasnt an accurate word. I havent spent much time doing timed cuts but i would say I was doing about 7" a minute with the dual heads in 48" of cut versus 5-6" per minute with a 42" bar in 33" of cut. It was a noticeable improvement in cutting rates and just how hard the saws were working. In other words I felt that the dual setup there was a more forgiving sweet spot for feed pressure etc.



That's about what I'd expect. Did you reprofile the rakers?
I would expect a raker angle of around 7-8º could be used on softwoods with that much HP in the cut.


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## Jeremiah (May 16, 2015)

Haven't done much milling but find the 070 well suited to 26 inch white oak


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## thenne1713 (May 30, 2015)

Yellowbeard said:


> bobl is always saying stuff like this. Makes me wish I didn't suck and sharpening.


Yellowbeard, Buy a Granberg File-N-Joint, or the (12volt) Grind-N-Joint, and spend the time to learn to use it properly. You will keep equal length teeth and proper rakers, and say WOW


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## Yellowbeard (May 30, 2015)

Like, this? http://granberg.com/product/g1012xt-precision-grinder

Thanks for the advice btw. Even touching up a 60" chain in the field by hand is a chore.


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## Boon (May 31, 2015)

would like to see the results


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## Shawn Curry (Jun 1, 2015)

Well, here are the results of the bar search anyway... 




I've had a couple pretty busy weeks, hosting my annual Memorial Day BBQ, and then going to DexterDay's GTG this past weekend. Another weekend or 2 and I'll have some pics.


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