# Fiskars Question



## AmateurSawer (Dec 13, 2021)

I've been using a "black handled" model of the X27 to split some hard dry oak. Seems like I'm getting a good bit of shock in my hands and wrists.
Would adding spray foam to the hollow handle dampen the vibration? Any wrap I cold use probably wouldn't let my hands slide as they should.
Maybe i should go back to my wood handled maul?


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## holeycow (Dec 13, 2021)

Yes.


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## AmateurSawer (Dec 13, 2021)

holeycow said:


> Yes.


Which ? Foam ? Or Maul?


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## holeycow (Dec 13, 2021)

Maul.


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## Brushwacker (Dec 14, 2021)

I have the original version splitting axe and an isocore maul, neither of which feel above average for shock to me. If there is anything as effective with less shock for under $150 i would like to know.


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## oldfortyfive (Dec 14, 2021)

Hydraulic splitter ;-)


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## Dudders (Dec 14, 2021)

Try a different technique - instead of powering the axe all the way to the log, relax your effort just before contact. At the moment of impact, your hands are just guiding the axe, not forcing it down. It takes concentration, but gives much less concussion on the arms. Made it a lot more bearable for me, anyway. Just don't go too far and lose the axe...
I doubt that spray foam would allow your hands to slide as they should, and it's a critical part of the action.


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## SuperDuty04 (Dec 14, 2021)

Dudders said:


> Try a different technique - instead of powering the axe all the way to the log, relax your effort just before contact. At the moment of impact, your hands are just guiding the axe, not forcing it down. It takes concentration, but gives much less concussion on the arms. Made it a lot more bearable for me, anyway. Just don't go too far and lose the axe...
> I doubt that spray foam would allow your hands to slide as they should, and it's a critical part of the action.


I’m pretty sure he was saying put the spray foam on the INSIDE of the hollow handle


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## Dudders (Dec 14, 2021)

SuperDuty04 said:


> I’m pretty sure he was saying put the spray foam on the INSIDE of the hollow handle


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## gordonst (Dec 14, 2021)

Hi,
The X27 is a great splitter, I've used loads and it's one of my favourites, the one I used had little vibration/shock.
My question would be 'how does it split?' Are you going too hard and not letting the axe do the work?
If it is splitting logs easily, then less aggression and as mentioned before relax at impact. Or just wear gloves


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## Brushwacker (Dec 14, 2021)

AmateurSawer said:


> I've been using a "black handled" model of the X27 to split some hard dry oak. Seems like I'm getting a good bit of shock in my hands and wrists.
> Would adding spray foam to the hollow handle dampen the vibration? Any wrap I cold use probably wouldn't let my hands slide as they should.
> Maybe i should go back to my wood handled maul?


My isocore maul splits the more difficult grained wood much easiar and in less swings then the splitting axe. I haven't used a wood or plastic - fiber handled maul of any brand that feels better shockwise or more effective splitting. I haven't tried everything out there , mostly the stuff they made 25+ years ago and a recent cheaper 8 Lb maul from Lowe's that I threw the towel in on when comparing it to the fiskars axe. It didn't seem to have any advantage, even splitting difficult stuff. Try the isocore, if it doesn't feel better then your present maul , you will have a backup maul or could resell it and recover most your money. If i didn't have 2 already i would take it off your hands should u not like it. I keep 1 in both my pickups.


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## Brushwacker (Dec 14, 2021)

oldfortyfive said:


> Hydraulic splitter ;-)


Under $150 ?


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## holeycow (Dec 14, 2021)

I don't have a fiskars axe or maul. I do have a pair of fiskars hand pruners, some loppers, a folding saw, and a hatchet. All junk as far as I'm concerned. Ergonomically **** and not particularly well made, imo. I doubt their other tools are any different.

my old maul splits nearly (nearly that is) anything with very little effort and almost no shock to the hands. Technique has something to do with it, and so does a good wooden handle.


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## Philbert (Dec 14, 2021)

Let us know if you foam the inside of the handle: inquiring minds want to know!

(P.S. note that some insulating spray foams at the home centers will not fill and harden in a deep void without exposure to air. Check the foam you choose). 

Philbert


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## Brushwacker (Dec 14, 2021)

holeycow said:


> I don't have a fiskars axe or maul. I do have a pair of fiskars hand pruners, some loppers, a folding saw, and a hatchet. All junk as far as I'm concerned. Ergonomically **** and not particularly well made, imo. I doubt their other tools are any different.
> 
> my old maul splits nearly (nearly that is) anything with very little effort and almost no shock to the hands. Technique has something to do with it, and so does a good wooden handle.


What kind of wood u splitting?
Pine-fir splits different then oak.
When i was in WA state I felt an axe split the softer woods easiar and I expect oak being harder will produce more of a shock and softer woods would absorb much shock.
Besides the axe and mauls I bought fiskars shovel, rake and wedge. Haven't used them much but so far but they worked well for my purposes. The rake is more of a light duty tool so using it mostly in short grass, lighter material. Use the wedge when i need to split something in the porch on cement. So far liking the shovel well but haven't used it on big jobs.


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## holeycow (Dec 14, 2021)

I don't have real wood, unfortunately. Aspen, pine, spruce, a wee bit of tamarack and birch, a wee bit of other woods, but predominantly aspen and pine. All of it is pretty easy splitting when it's dry. A knotty jack pine can be a *****, even dry. Though usually you can find a "fault line" for an easier go of it.

I always thought the fiskars stuff looked pretty good, but I have a better one of everything I have in fiskars. All of that stuff is 25-40 years old, like my old maul. You can't even buy a decent shovel in a hardware store anymore. Perhaps that is why folks think fiskars stuff is premium, idk. It is certainly better than the average hardware store stuff available today, but not better than the average hardware store tools available in the past. Most of my shovels, rakes, picks, pitchforks, etc, etc are commercial quality from years ago, so hard to find equals in a run-of-the-mill hardware store today. Impossible, in fact. I have broken the odd thing from being rough, but most have survived the farm for many, many years. I just drug out a couple of axes I hamfistedly broke a long time ago. One of them looks decent and deserves a new handle, I'd say. One day.

anyway..

my Dad had a splitter he called a "motor axe" haha that had two cammed wedges that opened when you struck the wood. That thing worked great, but sometimes was hard on the hands because it had a plastic handle, or at least that's what we thought. I don't think those are available anymore. I think some of those broke the wedges or pins or springs or something. My Dad's never broke, as far as I know and I don't know where it ever got too...


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## Philbert (Dec 14, 2021)

holeycow said:


> my Dad had a splitter he called a "motor axe" haha that had two cammed wedges that opened when you struck the wood.


There are some references to those in some of the threads:









CHOPPER 1 AXE







www.chopper1axe.com





Philbert


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## holeycow (Dec 14, 2021)

That's it! I see now they are available with a wooden handle. Nice!

ok, so how does the "chopper" rate as a splitting tool these days? Years ago we thought it was pretty slick.


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## holeycow (Dec 14, 2021)

Now that I think about it, I think my Dad's was a "chopper2". Is that even possible? I'm pretty sure it had some kind of a synthetic handle?


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## Robert K Meyer (Dec 14, 2021)

AmateurSawer said:


> I've been using a "black handled" model of the X27 to split some hard dry oak. Seems like I'm getting a good bit of shock in my hands and wrists.
> Would adding spray foam to the hollow handle dampen the vibration? Any wrap I cold use probably wouldn't let my hands slide as they should.
> Maybe i should go back to my wood handled maul?


I was starting to split a lot until I found my stove likes big whole logs instead of split stuff. But when I was splitting alot, the Fiskars X27 orange handle seemed to have a slightly better grip and maybe better for shock. I have used both. The Gransfors Bruks 442 splitting axe is easier on the shock because of the wooden handle. Had to hammer in another wedge when the handle was getting loose early on. Both are a lot my pleasant and quicker than an 8lb maul and wedge which I had used for years. I only use that on the really difficult stuff. Most experience is on lodgepole which is so-so for splitting. Splitting birch in Alaska with an X27 is a dream. X27 vs 442, X27 has lifetime warranty, takes a beating, 442 is a pleasure to handle. I could probably go quicker with the X27.


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## oldfortyfive (Dec 15, 2021)

Brushwacker said:


> Under $150 ?


Used ones are out there. Besides what’s your health worth?


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## 5crows (Dec 15, 2021)

I split mostly oak, and moved to the over the head and back stance with the X27, and got a much better result, versus an over shoulder side swing. This swing seems to center/align the axe bit's force better and is almost as good as a visit to the chiropractor for putting all your skeletal frame, ligaments in perfect harmony! I started looking forward to splitting wood.

The back swing with this stance and increased arc, provides more force against the block surface with a much more powerful swing, in my opinion.

I started noticing the sound differences between a complete split, a partial hit and many fewer stuck swings. The fiber handle seems to be far more durable than any wood handle I''ve used.


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## blackman614 (Dec 15, 2021)

I have had the X25 for 10 years and love it. But like the guy above stated... on your downstroke, relax. Let the axe head do the work. Do NOT power through on your downstroke. You will get injured or worse.


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## Brushwacker (Dec 15, 2021)

oldfortyfive said:


> Used ones are out there. Besides what’s your health worth?


I have owned more splitters then I can remember including a Timber wolf with the hydrolic lift and multi blade knife. Sold them all but 1 that is parked in my barn waiting reconstruction about 15 years now. 
They have their place with me but working by myself, selling the bulk of my wood straight from the woods to the customer they are more of a burden and expense using then a help. UsuaIly leave the house with my pickup or pickup + my old army trailer, drive a few to several miles, snake through the woods until i find a reasonably dry tree or more to make 1/3 to 1/2 cord of 16inch firewood to go to the customer from there. Chainsaws and maul and axe is quickest, easiest and more profitable for this situation . Splitter is work hooking and unhooking, a pain maneuvering in the woods, having to carry blocks to it, in the way of loading the truck , an extra trip or 2 back to the house before my delivery , this that maintnence, more fuel cost, etc. goes using the splitter. Understandably 2 or more people working together cutting a lot of wood in a day and bringing it home a good splitter is more often worth the effort and u can leave it at home and split as u unload or from a pile. For me, what i don't sell i take the bulk of my wood from the dead tree in the woods, in my pickup straight to inside my house to burn. Usually its not to difficult to split the loads I haul by maul or axe with a little noodling through excess knots when i have them. My 63 year old body with a semi handicapped shoulder doesn't feel much harm doing a few loads or more a week, like I do. Actually I like the work out for my lungs.


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## oldfortyfive (Dec 15, 2021)

Brushwacker said:


> I have owned more splitters then I can remember including a Timber wolf with the hydrolic lift and multi blade knife. Sold them all but 1 that is parked in my barn waiting reconstruction about 15 years now.
> They have their place with me but working by myself, selling the bulk of my wood straight from the woods to the customer they are more of a burden and expense using then a help. UsuaIly leave the house with my pickup or pickup + my old army trailer, drive a few to several miles, snake through the woods until i find a reasonably dry tree or more to make 1/3 to 1/2 cord of 16inch firewood to go to the customer from there. Chainsaws and maul and axe is quickest, easiest and more profitable for this situation . Splitter is work hooking and unhooking, a pain maneuvering in the woods, having to carry blocks to it, in the way of loading the truck , an extra trip or 2 back to the house before my delivery , this that maintnence, more fuel cost, etc. goes using the splitter. Understandably 2 or more people working together cutting a lot of wood in a day and bringing it home a good splitter is more often worth the effort and u can leave it at home and split as u unload or from a pile. For me, what i don't sell i take the bulk of my wood from the dead tree in the woods, in my pickup straight to inside my house to burn. Usually its not to difficult to split the loads I haul by maul or axe with a little noodling through excess knots when i have them. My 63 year old body with a semi handicapped shoulder doesn't feel much harm doing a few loads or more a week, like I do. Actually I like the work out for my lungs.


I’ve had a lot of problems with tennis elbow (nobody ever gets it from tennis) so anything to eliminate vibration is a priority for me.


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## Mad Professor (Dec 15, 2021)

AmateurSawer said:


> I've been using a "black handled" model of the X27 to split some hard dry oak. Seems like I'm getting a good bit of shock in my hands and wrists.
> Would adding spray foam to the hollow handle dampen the vibration? Any wrap I cold use probably wouldn't let my hands slide as they should.
> Maybe i should go back to my wood handled maul?


This




And these.


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## Brushwacker (Dec 15, 2021)

Mad Professor said:


> This
> 
> View attachment 948647
> 
> ...


Slow . 
I would rather noodle . That is what my dad did when in his upper 80's. No shock using the chainsaw and you don't have to lift anything heavier then the chainsaw.


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## Hermio (Dec 16, 2021)

I have used a lot of mauls over the years. The X27 is the second best I have used. It is better than the 8 lb Fiskars iso-core. However, the best I have used is the original Sotz 15 lb Monster Maul. It explodes many large blocks, and it never gets stuck. A bit hard on the hands and shoulders, though. I use the roundhouse swing, which produces more velocity that an overhead drop. These days, I only use manual splitting for large rounds too heavy for me to lift to my power splitter. I generally just quarter them to get manageable pieces.


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## fossil (Dec 19, 2021)

holeycow said:


> That's it! I see now they are available with a wooden handle. Nice!
> 
> ok, so how does the "chopper" rate as a splitting tool these days? Years ago we thought it was pretty slick.




I have a Chopper splitter. I didn't use it much unless I ran into a really tough piece.

Downside is that it can throw the split wood around 15 to 20 feet so you have to watch anything in that circle that might get damaged.


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## 3000 FPS (Dec 19, 2021)

This is a X-27 I converted to a wood handle.


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## 3000 FPS (Dec 19, 2021)

fossil said:


> I have a Chopper splitter. I didn't use it much unless I ran into a really tough piece.
> 
> Downside is that it can throw the split wood around 15 to 20 feet so you have to watch anything in that circle that might get damaged.


Hi Tim.


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## fossil (Dec 19, 2021)

3000 FPS said:


> Hi Tim.


Hi Roger,
How are things in Big Sky country?


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## Philbert (Dec 19, 2021)

3000 FPS said:


> This is a X-27 I converted to a wood handle.
> 
> View attachment 949520
> View attachment 949521



And . . . ?

Philbert


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## 3000 FPS (Dec 20, 2021)

fossil said:


> Hi Roger,
> How are things in Big Sky country?


Things are good. Not much snow yet but we have had some pretty cold weather. I just keep burning that wood.


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## 3000 FPS (Dec 20, 2021)

Philbert said:


> And . . . ?
> 
> Philbert


Well if you happen to own a X-27 axe by fiskars and you break the handle on it then it is pretty much useless unless you figure out a way to put another handle on it like a wood one. I was just showing an example that it can be done.
Otherwise you are pretty much stuck with a splitting wedge. So no big deal but I know the X-27 axes are pretty popular and just sharing some info for X-27 owners.


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## Philbert (Dec 20, 2021)

3000 FPS said:


> Well if you happen to own a X-27 axe by fiskars and you break the handle on it then it is pretty much useless unless you figure out a way to put another handle on it like a wood one. I was just showing an example that it can be done.
> Otherwise you are pretty much stuck with a splitting wedge. So no big deal but I know the X-27 axes are pretty popular and just sharing some info for X-27 owners.


I was curious how well it performed with the wood handle, compared to the composite handle. . 

Thanks 

Philbert


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## Hermio (Dec 20, 2021)

3000 FPS said:


> Well if you happen to own a X-27 axe by fiskars and you break the handle on it then it is pretty much useless unless you figure out a way to put another handle on it like a wood one. I was just showing an example that it can be done.
> Otherwise you are pretty much stuck with a splitting wedge. So no big deal but I know the X-27 axes are pretty popular and just sharing some info for X-27 owners.


If you break the handle, Fiskars will send you a new maul. It has a lifetime warranty.


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## 3000 FPS (Dec 20, 2021)

Hermio said:


> If you break the handle, Fiskars will send you a new maul. It has a lifetime warranty.


Yes you are correct. I did not break the handle on this one. It was someone else and they did get a new axe from Fiskars and so he sent me the old one and that is what I used. I think the old axe head had been laying around for awhile since it was rusted up.


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## 3000 FPS (Dec 20, 2021)

Philbert said:


> I was curious how well it performed with the wood handle, compared to the composite handle. .
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Philbert


To start with I made the handle a little shorter because the 36" one is to long for me and I can manage a shorter handle better. So far I have done some splitting with it and I have driven some steel wedges with it to see if there is any distortion that would cause a problem. I have done about 5 rounds so far and it has held up very good. The handle is still very tight and no signs of moving at all. I am going to do more work with it today and keep testing it.

I am retired and this was just a fun project for me.


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## 3000 FPS (Dec 21, 2021)

Modified the axe holder today. The edge is now protected.


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## Snap (Jan 17, 2022)

My hands are sensitive to shock and I just use Kinco insulated gloves, deerskin mostly, in all weather and the insulation is padding enough to never have splitting with my X27 annoy my hands.
Worth a try for 30 bucks or so.


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## Charlie Coyote (Jul 18, 2022)

AmateurSawer said:


> I've been using a "black handled" model of the X27 to split some hard dry oak. Seems like I'm getting a good bit of shock in my hands and wrists.
> Would adding spray foam to the hollow handle dampen the vibration? Any wrap I cold use probably wouldn't let my hands slide as they should.
> Maybe i should go back to my wood handled maul?


 No spray foam won't reduce shock. If you haven't split much wood, then the shock you experience is more likely the death grip on the handle. Upon impact you are the shock absorber. I find that the Fiskars 8lb IsoCore maul is the number one. The weight does the work and it's concave design superior at penetration. If it sets without splintering, then I drive it home with a sledge. I also use a Council Tool GSA 4lb and they just introduced a 5lb splitting axe that's a true Maine wedge profile. These are the best values in splitting tools I highly recommend, if you use them correctly. I split 3-4 cords every year for the wood stove. Technique matters.


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## Charlie Coyote (Jul 18, 2022)

3000 FPS said:


> This is a X-27 I converted to a wood handle.
> 
> View attachment 949520
> View attachment 949521


Mounted on a club or is that a baseball bat? How could that help reduce shock, if you'll kindly explain that to me.


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## Charlie Coyote (Jul 18, 2022)

3000 FPS said:


> This is a X-27 I converted to a wood handle.
> 
> View attachment 949520
> View attachment 949521


Mounted on a club or is that a baseball bat? How could that help reduce shock, if you'll kindly explain that to me.


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## Hermio (Jul 18, 2022)

Charlie Coyote said:


> No spray foam won't reduce shock. If you haven't split much wood, then the shock you experience is more likely the death grip on the handle. Upon impact you are the shock absorber. I find that the Fiskars 8lb IsoCore maul is the number one. The weight does the work and it's concave design superior at penetration. If it sets without splintering, then I drive it home with a sledge. I also use a Council Tool GSA 4lb and they just introduced a 5lb splitting axe that's a true Maine wedge profile. These are the best values in splitting tools I highly recommend, if you use them correctly. I split 3-4 cords every year for the wood stove. Technique matters.


I have the Fiskars 8 lb Iso core, and it gets stuck a lot. My old 15 lb Monster Maul works much better and never gets stuck. But the X27 works almost as well.


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## Snap (Jul 18, 2022)

I use gel lined bicycle gloves. I have a carpel tunnel issue and splitting with appropriate gloves causes me no trouble.
Not that I am any authority but Friscars is the best I have ever used. I refuse to use a machine because manually making firewood is good for the health.


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## Charlie Coyote (Jul 18, 2022)

Hermio said:


> I have the Fiskars 8 lb Iso core, and it gets stuck a lot. My old 15 lb Monster Maul works much better and never gets stuck. But the X27 works almost as well.


Mine sticks and I use a sledgehammer on the hammer head of the maul to start a crack and follow the crack with two wedges as needed. It's a system that works, but it's all hard work. It didn't kill me, so it may serve to make me stronger. I'm 70 and done physical work most of my life and I'm retired 8 years and still working, while many of my peers are dead, diseased and dying from being sedentary and being obese from foul dietary habits over decades. Too many Americans live as if some pill will solve the problem of them not doing what it truly takes to live as healthy and long as one can.


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## bugkill (Jul 19, 2022)

Not exactly a Maul but I used sledge hammers for years in the metal trades and preferred a wood handle. Use one of thre plastic handled sledges for a few days and ended up with tennis elbow. We use sledge in 10-12 lb range. Never went back. Always use wood now. Not sure if they are all the same but not taking the chance anymore.


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## Charlie Coyote (Jul 19, 2022)

bugkill said:


> Not exactly a Maul but I used sledge hammers for years in the metal trades and preferred a wood handle. Use one of thre plastic handled sledges for a few days and ended up with tennis elbow. We use sledge in 10-12 lb range. Never went back. Always use wood now. Not sure if they are all the same but not taking the chance anymore.


Used my 30 year old 12lb until the haft cracked through a few weeks back. I have another hickory haft for it until I get on it. I've got tendonitis even from hickory, then I learned how to shave and scrape them to where they flex. That and practicing good technique alleviated the problem. I won't use solid fiberglass handles; they transmit all the shock to the user. The Fiskars IsoCore 8lb maul is a hollow polycarbonate. The head is mounted with one bolt through the head an the haft through the eye is surrounded with rubber. They say it dampens half of the shock and from using it I believe it's so. I can use it for hours on end and no tendonitis. Lifetime guarantee if you can break the handle you get a new one. Cost $65.


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