# can I use pipe tape and thread sealant on hydraulic fittings?



## topofthehil (Sep 30, 2010)

I am installing fittings on my splitter build.
the manual for the hyd valve does not recommend using pipe tape on the hydraulic fittings. I'm looking at pics of log splitters on this web site and I clearly see pipe tape. what's up with that?
would it be ok to use tape on the final few threads?
also, they recommend not using thread sealant with Teflon. 
why is that?
thanks for your help,
topo


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## timberwolf (Sep 30, 2010)

High pressure seals need good metal metal or metal high pressure gasket fits, any soft fillers or tapes will just get pushed out by the high pressure. Adding goop or tape to what should be a metal metal fit will make getting that good tight seal difficult and promote leaks rather than prevent them. Simply they are not designed to work that way.


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## leon (Sep 30, 2010)

*hydraulic fittings*

Timberwolf is absolutely correct in what he is telling you; I will add

several more reasons why this is not done.



You NEVER use pipe dope or teflon tape on the J.I.C. fittings which are the 37

degree bevel fittings; The J.I.C. fittings are a very close tolerance fit STEEL 

machined fittings.



You must NEVER use more than a drop or 2 of the liquid pipe dope 

MENT ONLY FOR HIGH PRESSURE SYSTEMS or when 

installing fittings into valve bodies as the valve bodies are castings and MUST

only be used in the inlet port of the valve body or the fitting on suction side 

of the pump as it is the low pressure side of the system. 



Sealing threads of hydraulic systems with the teflon pipe tape is not done 

because IT WILL CRACK FITTINGS AND CASTINGS.



When ever the Teflon Tape or TEFON BASED pipe dope is used it is being

used improperly, as it will promote leaks.


Leon


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## sawkiller (Sep 30, 2010)

If you are talking a standard national pipe thread joint then yes a good qaulity teflon tape and a good qaulity thread compound is in order. The reason the manufacturer says not to use it is they do not want it in their pump or valves causing damage. My sugestion is do not tape the first thread and this will eliminate the above problem. Also read the directions on the thread compound that you get and it will tell you what it is good for and how much pressure. Gasoila compound comes to mind and with it no tape required but still keep the first thread clean.


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## motoman3b (Sep 30, 2010)

From experince dont pipe dope wont hold up to high pressure lines, but for feed and returns it seals up good. The only thing I could get to seal mine is the permatex thread sealant they sell it napa.


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## TreePointer (Sep 30, 2010)

Some of what you see may not be teflon tape. Hydraulic thread sealant can dry to look like white tape. 

I've been using this from TSC: Permatex® High Temperature Thread Sealant


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## PLAYINWOOD (Sep 30, 2010)

timberwolf said:


> High pressure seals need good metal metal or metal high pressure gasket fits, any soft fillers or tapes will just get pushed out by the high pressure. Adding goop or tape to what should be a metal metal fit will make getting that good tight seal difficult and promote leaks rather than prevent them. Simply they are not designed to work that way.




Good answer Brian, may I add, goop and teflon tapes tend to gather in the vulnerable area called the pump.Not to mention gumming up filters.

Industry standards are NO sealants for hydraulic systems.Metal on metal thread,welded or compression fittings.Parker or swage-lok are the most popular compression fittings

What I have seen are machine threads with rubber O-rings on the male fitting.


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## sawkiller (Sep 30, 2010)

Once again if it is standard pipe thread you need some sort of sealant when assembling and do not do the first thread and this will eliminate your in the pump issue. Of course I only went to school for plumbing for 5 years and hold journeymans cards in three states so I probably wouldn't know.

Below is a direct cut from the gasoila website and notice the pressure ranges with liquids. 10,000 PSI 
Soft-setting, non-toxic, PTFE paste. 
Provides a positive seal on pipe threads, joints, fittings, hoses, nozzles, LPG cylinders, pump assemblies, oil burners, hydraulics, compressors, engines, motors, housings, plugs, fuel lines, couplings and more. 
Use on brass, copper, stainless steel, aluminum, black pipe, tin, galvanized, ABS, CPVC, PVC plastics, nylon, polyethylene, polypropylene, polybutylene and more. 
Excellent resistance to gasoline (up to 20% alcohol and petroleum blends), petroleum solvents, kerosene, diesel oil, propane, butane LPG, cutting oils, ammonia, aliphatic solvents, acids, steam, potable water, compressed air and more. 
NOT for use on oxygen. 
Remains pliable in cold temperatures. 
Temperature Range: -100ºF to 600ºF (-74ºC to 318ºC). 
Pressure Range: To 10,000 psi sealing liquids; to 3,000 psi sealing gases. 
One year shelf life when stored at 40ºF to 80ºF (5ºC to 27ºC). 
For alcohol blended gasoline (ethanol), 
see E-Seal. 
For use on NPT Threads.


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## PLAYINWOOD (Sep 30, 2010)

sawkiller said:


> Once again if it is standard pipe thread you need some sort of sealant when assembling and do not do the first thread and this will eliminate your in the pump issue. Of course I only went to school for plumbing for 5 years and hold journeymans cards in three states so I probably wouldn't know.
> 
> Below is a direct cut from the gasoila website and notice the pressure ranges with liquids. 10,000 PSI
> Soft-setting, non-toxic, PTFE paste.
> ...



Chit runs downhill and payday is on Friday...I'm a plumber..

I work with a few steamfitters and worked construction as a millwright for 15 years. 
Do you have a brand name of this hydraulic goop. My planner could do some research for us.I knew the first thread tape trick we use that in potable water.Plumbers dope for most everything else.
We have tried something by Loc-tite but it wasn't well received.

Hydraulic systems have always been a no no for us.


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## sawkiller (Sep 30, 2010)

PLAYINWOOD said:


> Chit runs downhill and payday is on Friday...I'm a plumber..
> 
> I work with a few steamfitters and worked construction as a millwright for 15 years.
> Do you have a brand name of this hydraulic goop. My planner could do some research for us.I knew the first thread tape trick we use that in potable water.Plumbers dope for most everything else.
> ...




You forgot the whole jingle in the last part the boss and everybody else is a SOB! LOL

"Gasoila" it is great and works extremely well. I have used it for hydraulics, gasoline, high pressure grease, air, and last but not least I could not imagine putting natural gas together without it. It is funny I have put quite a bit of steel pipe in and I have found that thread qaulity and tight but not broken is usually the trick.


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## grandpatractor (Sep 30, 2010)

Should only use dope on pipe thread. JIC or o-ring don't need it.


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## olyman (Sep 30, 2010)

sawkiller said:


> Once again if it is standard pipe thread you need some sort of sealant when assembling and do not do the first thread and this will eliminate your in the pump issue. Of course I only went to school for plumbing for 5 years and hold journeymans cards in three states so I probably wouldn't know.
> 
> Below is a direct cut from the gasoila website and notice the pressure ranges with liquids. 10,000 PSI
> Soft-setting, non-toxic, PTFE paste.
> ...



agree. i dont have your--"papers" but used pipe thread sealant, the stick stuff,many years ago when i built my splitter, near 40 yrs. no leaks yet


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## Buckethead (Sep 30, 2010)

+1 for the sealant on NPT.

The tapered threads of NPT is considered a "crude seal" and certainly benefit from some sort of sealant. I've personally had better success with the sealant in a tube (teflon, Permatex, etc.) than teflon tape.


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## PLAYINWOOD (Oct 1, 2010)

sawkiller said:


> You forgot the whole jingle in the last part the boss and everybody else is a SOB! LOL
> 
> "Gasoila" it is great and works extremely well. I have used it for hydraulics, gasoline, high pressure grease, air, and last but not least I could not imagine putting natural gas together without it. It is funny I have put quite a bit of steel pipe in and I have found that thread qaulity and tight but not broken is usually the trick.



I'll do some research on it thanks,

If the thread dies were perfect we wouldn't need a sealant. The tapers of NPT thread pitch were meant to form a natural seal.


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## mtfallsmikey (Oct 1, 2010)

Glad to see more of us plumbers around here....most pipe dopes are trash now, sice lead was banned from them years ago...

I use Rectorseal #5 on most everything.


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## sawkiller (Oct 1, 2010)

That rectorseal or rectumseal as it is nicknamed works well to but I am not sure what the manufacturer pressure rating is for it?

And yes if the threads were perfect maybe less sealant needed. But let us not forget that the sealant is also a high pressure lubricant that allows it to slide together farther without damage to the pipe or fitting.


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## topofthehil (Oct 1, 2010)

Ok, thanks for all of your advice.
Looks like I need some more schooling.
This is what I did so far.
I did not put any thread sealant on any of the high pressure fittings going into or from the pump, cylinder or the valve.
I hope to get these fitting tested some time this weekend with a live run.
I did put pipe dope on all of the pipe fittings that are on the hydraulic tank… except the first couple of threads.
This would be the supply from the tank and the return from the valve.
I then pressurized the tank and put soap water on the connections.
The 2” suction filter had a pinhole leak where it threads into the tank coupler.
So I removed the suction filter and put some thread tape and pipe dope on it, then tightened it up again. I retested it and it still has a pinhole leak. 
The filter is made of aluminum, so I don’t want to over tighten it.
What can I do to stop the leak…RTV over the pinhole?
I did not use any of the “special” tube past sealants, I.E. Permatex, Gasoila... etc., just the standard plumber “brush on” non Teflon type. 
Doesn’t PTFE paste have Teflon in it?
What does PTEF stand for?
Thanks, topo


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## mtfallsmikey (Oct 1, 2010)

topofthehil said:


> Ok, thanks for all of your advice.
> Looks like I need some more schooling.
> This is what I did so far.
> I did not put any thread sealant on any of the high pressure fittings going into or from the pump, cylinder or the valve.
> ...




PTEF is pure Teflon.


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## kevin j (Oct 1, 2010)

PTFE is poly tetra fluorethylene (or soemthing close) the chemical name for teflon.


NPT threads MUST have a sealant of some sort. Functions for two reasons: 
1. The threads do mate metal to metal but even with NPTF threads there still a small spiral leakage path between the top of the male thread and the root of the female threads. A sealant fills that small gap. 

2. Lubricates the threads, reducse friction, allows tighter assembly with the same torque. Down side: allows tighter assembly with the same torque and can very easily distort valve bodies or split out casting ports from the higher wedging forces.


I prefer teflon tape, one or two threads back, and wound clockwise. Porbelry applied it is good and easy to do. But it must be done properly or tiny shreds end up in the system. For the more ham fisted people, Loctite PST or other liquid anaerobic curing pastes work well and less problems in the system. 


NPT is a general PITA for fluid power. Many years ago the 37 degree flare (JIC, now SAE) became the most commonly used tube and hose connection.

Now, almost everything I design I use flat face oring seal (ORFS) connections. Combine that with an SAE o-ring boss port on the component (almost ALL hydraulic components outside of the cheap consumer stuff are oring boss ports of SAE or metric) and you will be almost leak free.

The only advatnage of NPT is the availability at Northern or places like that. Otherwise, NPT threads have no place in medium or high pressure systems.

kcj


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## Iska3 (Oct 2, 2010)

mtfallsmikey said:


> Glad to see more of us plumbers around here....most pipe dopes are trash now, sice lead was banned from them years ago...
> 
> *I use Rectorseal #5 on most everything*.



:agree2:


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## sawkiller (Oct 2, 2010)

If you still are having the leak and haven't found or got either the gasoila or the loctite curing sealant mentioned above (both work very well). Then you should look at a couple of things obviously you threads are not perfect or it would not be leaking. No offense just how it is and believe me there are no perfect threads but some are better than others.

Take it back apart and put a rag in the pipe and take a wire brush and clean up the threads and inspect them closely then pull out the rag. On the female threads to keep the system clean I would use a copper fitting brush and basicly unscrew all the tape and dope on the threads and once again inspect closely. Then in a pinch go to the hardware store and ask for teflon tape for gas lines it is usually a bright yellow color. It is a much thicker and heavier teflon or PTFE and if three wraps of that properly applied (if it all rolls up and balls when you put it together then pull it apart and wrap the other way) don't fix it then try getting a new piece of pipe!


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## 100 Watt (Oct 3, 2010)

Plumber here as well. 

Let's not forget, "don't bite your finger nails"

Personally, I like TU-555 pipe dope.


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## BlueRidgeMark (Oct 3, 2010)

sawkiller said:


> Once again if it is standard pipe thread you need some sort of sealant





But then, if it's standard pipe thread, it doesn't belong on a hydraulic system in the first place!


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## radroy92 (Jan 8, 2011)

*Formula-8*

This stuff will work on tapered threads up to 10,000 psi and hydraulic fluids. +500 degrees F on hydraulic systems.

Fluoramics Inc.

Part # 4538K1 McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr

Roy


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## tanker (Jan 8, 2011)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> But then, if it's standard pipe thread, it doesn't belong on a hydraulic system in the first place!


 
Funny,alot of cylinders and valves for hydraulic are NPT Scott


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## MH49 (Jan 8, 2011)

That is true for log splitters and old farm tractors and is fine for low pressures (Approximately 2500 psi and down.) However 'modern' equipiment uses O-ring boss, JIC and O-Ring face seal as others have noted. All these are much better for higher pressures than a connection designed primarily for water. Keep in mind that a heavy duty hydrostatic transmission will run up to 6500 psi and implement circuits can run up to 3600 psi and higher.


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## radroy92 (Jan 8, 2011)

*PTFE locknut seals*

Anybody ever use these??

Roy


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## firewood guy (Jan 9, 2011)

*Just say no to N.P.T. Thats for plumbers!!*

Probably restating the obvious, but modern HYD systems don't use NPT fittings except.. maybe.. the return / suction side. Almost all MFGrs use STOR fittings ( straight thread O-ring), and some still use the old JIC 37 degree tapered-seat stuff. Not a good idea to use teflon anywhere it could be introduced into the hydraulic circuit. It voids medium and heavy duty const equipment warranties if they find it in the system when making a claim. This info comes from CAT and TEREX employees that are personal friends in the biz for lots of years. Get the best.. use STOR fittings.. that way you can index the hose/ fitting alignment anywhere you want it w/o fear of leaks or having to use sealants that have no business of being anywhere around a HYD system. Hope this helps.


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## radroy92 (Jan 9, 2011)

*Stuck with NPT*



firewood guy said:


> Probably restating the obvious, but modern HYD systems don't use NPT fittings except.. maybe.. the return / suction side. Almost all MFGrs use STOR fittings ( straight thread O-ring), and some still use the old JIC 37 degree tapered-seat stuff. Not a good idea to use teflon anywhere it could be introduced into the hydraulic circuit. It voids medium and heavy duty const equipment warranties if they find it in the system when making a claim. This info comes from CAT and TEREX employees that are personal friends in the biz for lots of years. Get the best.. use STOR fittings.. that way you can index the hose/ fitting alignment anywhere you want it w/o fear of leaks or having to use sealants that have no business of being anywhere around a HYD system. Hope this helps.



Those fittings are great I agree but.... the old Miller cylinder ports are 3/4 NPT. So I have to use a fitting with pipe threads.

Roy


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## firewood guy (Jan 9, 2011)

radroy92 said:


> Those fittings are great I agree but.... the old Miller cylinder ports are 3/4 NPT. So I have to use a fitting with pipe threads.
> 
> Roy


 
There are adapters available to go from a NPT to a STOR. I would suggest using Loctite sleeve retainer sealant to make the leak-proof connection @ the NPT fittings. Have had great success w/ this in the past, providing you have the room for that extra 1" plus of adapter!! Good luck.. Mike P.S. Make sure you have ample cure-time for the Loctite @ good ambient temp before you put the unit back in service....


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## firewood guy (Jan 9, 2011)

Iska3 said:


> :agree2:


 
Gotta agree... Rectorseal products are some of the best! Never had a failed pressure test inspection in 20 years. Oh, also a GC and a plumber!!!


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## Dimwitted redneck (Oct 28, 2016)

topofthehil said:


> I am installing fittings on my splitter build.
> the manual for the hyd valve does not recommend using pipe tape on the hydraulic fittings. I'm looking at pics of log splitters on this web site and I clearly see pipe tape. what's up with that?
> would it be ok to use tape on the final few threads?
> also, they recommend not using thread sealant with Teflon.
> ...



Hello All,
I have read the first few replies below........few are fact, most are misguided opinions. The one that stands out as the best response, or the mostly accurate response to your question, is from SAWKILLER (congrats, you win).
In my words: The JIC fitting has 2 sets of threads, on the tubing/hose side of the fitting, you have the JIC threads; which, typically should be installed dry, or "metal on metal". However, In some applications, the nut can have a tendency to vibrate loose, and allow the connection to leak. looking at the function of the individual "components" of the fitting, The angle on the end of the fitting, is one of the two parts that compose the "Sealing Surface", and this section of the fitting is intended to be installed, metal-on-metal.....end of conversation, no exceptions. Now, the thread section of the JIC portion of the fitting, is one of the two parts that has one function, and that is to "maintain or hold the seal". On this section, I will use the LOCTITE brand threadlocker (not to be confused with sealant). I have used the Loctite thread locker, to prevent the connection from becoming loose, due to vibration, many, many, many times, and have to date, experienced a 100% success rate.
Now, the other side of the fitting (with the exception of a JIC union, or JIC "T", etc...) can be a multitude of different types of threads, to include, but not limited too: NPT (National Pipe Taper), BSPP (British Standard - Parallel threads), BSPT (British Standard - Tapered threads), O-ring face seal, etc.... With the other side of your fitting being NPT, then YES, you should use a sealant, (i.e. Loctite sealant, paste sealant, tape sealant, etc...) because on NPT, the threads are creating the seal (my personnal, unproven, unfacted, OPINION is: the biggest advantage offered by the sealant is that it lubricates the mating surfaces of the threads, allowing the connection to be tightened further, in which decreases the area between the two surfaces (it's tapered) increasing the resistance to leaking). Now, if the other side of the fitting is BSPP, then NO you SHOULD NOT use a sealant.
Gotta go, so in summary, 
- USE SEALANT ON thread to seal fittings (such as NPT). (THE THREADS CREATE THE SEAL OF THE CONNECTION)
- DO NOT USE SEALANT ON JIC SEALING SURFACE (ANGLE), BSPP, O-RING FACE SEAL, ETC (THREADS DO NOT MAKE UP THE SEAL OF THE CONNECTION)

sealant tape is not recommended, because if you are careless, or do not know any better, you can tape past the lead threads, or worse, over the end a bit.....the tape will shear and take a ride on the oil river to the next component and reak havac on tightly toleranced parts in motion (spool valves, pumps, proportional valves, etc...).


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## turnkey4099 (Oct 28, 2016)

sawkiller said:


> If you are talking a standard national pipe thread joint then yes a good qaulity teflon tape and a good qaulity thread compound is in order. The reason the manufacturer says not to use it is they do not want it in their pump or valves causing damage. My sugestion is do not tape the first thread and this will eliminate the above problem. Also read the directions on the thread compound that you get and it will tell you what it is good for and how much pressure. Gasoila compound comes to mind and with it no tape required but still keep the first thread clean.



Exactly. I worked builting parts for agricultural sprayers. Lots of hydraulic pumps. Had failures traced to shreds of tape in the pumps.


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## GVS (Oct 29, 2016)

topofthehil said:


> I am installing fittings on my splitter build.
> the manual for the hyd valve does not recommend using pipe tape on the hydraulic fittings. I'm looking at pics of log splitters on this web site and I clearly see pipe tape. what's up with that?
> would it be ok to use tape on the final few threads?
> also, they recommend not using thread sealant with Teflon.
> ...


You can use tape on pipe threads BUT don't over torque and as stated above don't start the tape on the first thread.When starting the tape go the OPPOSITE direction from tightening.No more than 2 wraps around.On flared fittings use no tape or dope of any kind!The 2 flares mating are what keeps it from leaking.


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## Wow (Nov 16, 2018)

I'm replacing


GVS said:


> You can use tape on pipe threads BUT don't over torque and as stated above don't start the tape on the first thread.When starting the tape go the OPPOSITE direction from tightening.No more than 2 wraps around.On flared fittings use no tape or dope of any kind!The 2 flares mati are what keeps it from leaking.


I'm replacing the Hydraulic cylinder on my Huskee 22 ton Splitter.
This thread had helped me a lot. I removed the Elbow on the high pressure end of the old cylinder very carefully checking for any signs of Pipe thread sealant. Where the Elbow entered the Cylinder there was a chalky substance in some threads but not near the end. Where the High Pressure line attached is the "0" ring seal BUT to my surprise there was residue on the threads but well back from the tip.
Before I remove the Control Valve off the old cylinder I'm considering marking it and counting the rounds to use as a rough guess giving me some Idea about what to expect.
The Hydraulic Filter on my Huskee Splitter is a Speedco 390601AO. The parts house crossed it to a Wix 51249. When I got home I ran the Specks and learned that Speedco actually makes that filter for Wix and it's a 10 micron. Thinking that I'd need 30 micron filteration I checked the Specks on the Speedco. I was expecting something near 30 micron AND, I learned that BOTH the Wix and Speedco are 10 micro. In fact the Wix 51249 IS actually the Speedco 390601AO under a different name.
Now that I have the correct filter all I needed was the correct pipe thread sealer. For that I bought Permatex High Heat Thread Sealant. Wish me luck with the new cylinder. It was scary cheap 219 bucks from the River AmZone plus free Shipping. These cylinders look like twin sisters. Black paint on the push rods right up to the Glad nut wiper seal. I think a paint chip is what caused the old seal to leak. IMHO painting a chrome actuator rod isn't smart. Good day.


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## muddstopper (Nov 18, 2018)

I doubt Speedco makes any filters for anybody. Wix on the other hand makes filters for most everbody. Second, a 30micron filter has less filtering capacity than a 10micron. If you want a finer filter you would need to go to a 5 micron. A 1 or 2 micron filter will take the red out of transmission fluid,, as well as most of the special lubricating additives used when the oil is made.
Oring fittings and jic fitting use no thread sealants. With pipe threat, use a sealant made for hydraulics, not plumbers tape.


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## dmb2613 (Nov 18, 2018)

People that don't use tape or sealer on NPT fittings are fools and have leaks
David


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## lone wolf (Nov 18, 2018)

sawkiller said:


> If you are talking a standard national pipe thread joint then yes a good qaulity teflon tape and a good qaulity thread compound is in order. The reason the manufacturer says not to use it is they do not want it in their pump or valves causing damage. My sugestion is do not tape the first thread and this will eliminate the above problem. Also read the directions on the thread compound that you get and it will tell you what it is good for and how much pressure. Gasoila compound comes to mind and with it no tape required but still keep the first thread clean.


Can tape and the compound be used together?


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## Wow (Nov 18, 2018)

muddstopper said:


> I doubt Speedco makes any filters for anybody. Wix on the other hand makes filters for most everbody. Second, a 30micron filter has less filtering capacity than a 10micron. If you want a finer filter you would need to go to a 5 micron. A 1 or 2 micron filter will take the red out of transmission fluid,, as well as most of the special lubricating additives used when the oil is made.
> Oring fittings and jic fitting use no thread sealants. With pipe threat, use a sealant made for hydraulics, not plumbers tape.


Well here is what I found after hours of searching. I'm not going to look for the site don't have time. Maybe I misinterpreted who made what but somewhere I read this.
Wix filters:
Speedco 51249 sold as Wix.
Huskee 51553 Sold as Wix.
Husee 33 micron
Speedco 10 micron.
My Stump Grinder came with an oil filter that has Speeedco 390601AO written on it 
Info states 10 micron.
The Wix (Speedco) states 10 micron. Exactly the same and Wix may have made it or Jesus, all I know is what it said. In the meantime somewhere, sometime someone put that 10 micron filter on my Huskee. I bought it slightly used so there is no telling but my gut feeling is go back with what came off. The Specks of the Speedco (Wix ) 51248 match exactly. Could be that the previous owner put the Speedco on. The Wix that states Huskee 51553 has 33 micron. Maybe the 10 micron created the leak and i may be messing up going back with Speedco - Wix 51249. Thanks.


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## lone wolf (Nov 18, 2018)

Wow said:


> Well here is what I found after hours of searching. I'm not going to look for the site don't have time. Maybe I misinterpreted who made what but somewhere I read this.
> Wix filters:
> Speedco 51249 sold as Wix.
> Huskee 51553 Sold as Wix.
> ...


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## muddstopper (Nov 18, 2018)

Wow said:


> Well here is what I found after hours of searching. I'm not going to look for the site don't have time. Maybe I misinterpreted who made what but somewhere I read this.
> Wix filters:
> Speedco 51249 sold as Wix.
> Huskee 51553 Sold as Wix.
> ...


 
About Wix, http://www.wixfilters.com/AboutUs.aspx?ct=auhi


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## Wow (Nov 19, 2018)

muddstopper said:


> About Wix, http://www.wixfilters.com/AboutUs.aspx?ct=auhi


Very good reading. I finally took time to review my notes AND YES, it looks as if I did read something backwards.
I think what happened is Wix Built BOTH filters .
One to replace the 10 micron filter sold as Speedco 390601AO. The replacement is Wix 51249. And as someone stated, it's probably NOT made by Speedco For Wix but is made by Wix and meets the same specs as the Speedco. The Huskee (IF they make any filters) 33 micron can be replaced by a Wix 51553. Hopefully, I've gotten that correct. I pride myself on being honest and will not defend an incorrect position. To defend an incorrect statement when you believe that you may be wrong may not be an actual lie but they look familiar enough to be twin brothers. I'd prefer to be proved wrong and be honest enough to make corrections than to lie to try to look correct. Thanks.


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## muddstopper (Nov 19, 2018)

Manufacturers like to rebrand parts so the user has to go thru them to purchase replacements. My Ventrac has a odd ball air filter whose numbers wouldnt cross reference with anything. The dealer charged me $80 for a replacement. Later I was at the local Outdoor power store and happen to see a filter on the shelf that looked very much like the one off my Ventrac. It fit a Snapper mower. Cost $12 and had a part number that interchanged with a Wix. Needless to say, I never bought another filter from the dealer.


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## Wow (Nov 19, 2018)

muddstopper said:


> Manufacturers like to rebrand parts so the user has to go thru them to purchase replacements. My Ventrac has a odd ball air filter whose numbers wouldnt cross reference with anything. The dealer charged me $80 for a replacement. Later I was at the local Outdoor power store and happen to see a filter on the shelf that looked very much like the one off my Ventrac. It fit a Snapper mower. Cost $12 and had a part number that interchanged with a Wix. Needless to say, I never bought another filter from the dealer.


Today I tried to remove the Selector valve off the Cylinder of my Huskee 22 ton Splitter. There is a fitting that looks bronze going directly into the cylinder between the valve body. 
The only wrench that comes close to fitting is a 22 metric. The sae 7/8 is a bit sloppy and the 22 metric has very little slop but isn't as tight as I fit as needed because I'm going to have to use a cheater due to the amount of force needed. 
I don't have a 21 metric to test.
My grandson said he thinks the Huskee is American and suggested the Hydraulic fittings are Sae. His guess is the wrench needed would be a 13/16 th. Or something in a 32 SAE. 
Does anyone know exactly what size wrench the Hydraulic Hose fittings use? 
Not the one on the hose tip but the double threaded fitting mating the hose to the Valve Body. 
I'll buy the correct fit rather than destroy the machine. 
When I removed the Elbow at the top (high pressure side) of the cylinder I was able to use a very big Cresent but don't want to try on the valve body. Thanks for any suggestions. 
Be blessed.


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## NSMaple1 (Nov 20, 2018)

Could very well be 13/16 yes. You don't have one that size? Can you borrow one somewhere? Or a 21mm, which is just a hair bigger then 13/16, but I highly doubt that is the 'proper' size, don't think they use metric stuff. 

Not sure how big a hurry you're in, but might want to consider watching for a local Black Friday sale coming up on a decent wrench set that includes 13/16. You'd likely pay less than if you run out right now & get just one wrench that size, and chances are you'd use it again and maybe there are other sizes in it that you are also missing, if you don't have a 13/16?


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## Wow (Nov 20, 2018)

NSMaple1 said:


> Could very well be 13/16 yes. You don't have one that size? Can you borrow one somewhere? Or a 21mm, which is just a hair bigger then 13/16, but I highly doubt that is the 'proper' size, don't think they use metric stuff.
> 
> Not sure how big a hurry you're in, but might want to consider watching for a local Black Friday sale coming up on a decent wrench set that includes 13/16. You'd likely pay less than if you run out right now & get just one wrench that size, and chances are you'd use it again and maybe there are other sizes in it that you are also missing, if you don't have a 13/16?


Thanks, my only 13/16 is boxed end. Im buying tools to restock. Several years ago I let a homeless man and his family live free in my cabin. To show their apperation they pawned most of my tools. Be blessed.


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## muddstopper (Nov 20, 2018)

Hose going from valve to cylinder would be high pressure. It doesnt sound right that the manufacturer would use a bronze fitting in that application. 13/16 should fit. If the fitting is so tight that you think the wrench will round the corners, take a small hammer and strike the end of the wrench. Not talking beating the wrench, just a series of light hits to break the fitting loose. It was probably put together with some sort of sealant and once you jar the fitting enough to break the seal the fitting should turn out pretty easy.


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## Wow (Nov 20, 2018)

muddstopper said:


> Hose going from valve to cylinder would be high pressure. It doesnt sound right that the manufacturer would use a bronze fitting in that application. 13/16 should fit. If the fitting is so tight that you think the wrench will round the corners, take a small hammer and strike the end of the wrench. Not talking beating the wrench, just a series of light hits to break the fitting loose. It was probably put together with some sort of sealant and once you jar the fitting enough to break the seal the fitting should turn out pretty easy.


Thanks. It's not brass just bronze color. Probably coated steel. Yes, hammer, great idea. Be blessed.


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## Wow (Nov 22, 2018)

Finally got the new Hydraulic cylinder on. It was a Strange size fitting between the control valve and the bottom port. I bought about 100 dollars of new tools and a digital caliper because I wanted precise measurements.
The fitting in question measured 22.25mm in fractions 111/128.
The 21 mm wouldn't go on. There was slack on the 22 mm and I shimmed the wrench with a strip of metal from a cola can. That snugged the wrench but tapping caused the metal to cut.

Out of desperation I came up with a super good idea.
I wrapped a nylon strap around the body of the control valve making sure to NOT wrap any part that may snap off under pressure. Next I secured a 1.5 inch by 36 inch thick metal pipe along side the valve. I disconnected the hoses between the valve and cylinder. Using the pipe as a cheater I unscrewed the Entire valve body. The fitting came with the valve so I left it attached. I counted 5.5 ccw turns removing and it took about that going back on. To tighten I used the 22 mm opened wrench. I used Permatex Hi temp dope which seems to helped tighten and properly aline the valve. Reassembly of hoses proved to be easy as the Hydraulic lines were 22 mm and the attached part was exactly 25 mm.
I'm left with the opinion the loose 22.25mm fitting is meant to be 22 mm but is undersized.

If I'm ever forced to remove the valve again my plan is to buy a new part of the proper size. Now that I know how to remove the control valve without a wrench I'm not timid about working on it.
If the valve goes bad I'll order the correct fitting with a new valve. Now, I'm going to let it set a while to let the Permatex seat. Next, change the filter and fluid.

A VERY IMPORTANT thing I discovered is the air vent on the oil reservoir.

The fill plug has a OPEN, NON FILTERED HOLE in the side. This hole makes it easy for debris to contaminate the hydraulic fluid. That is VERY BAD DESIGN FLAW.

I'm going to measure the threads on the plug. Looks like 1.5 inch pipe threads.

IF, I can find a PVC threaded elbo to fit it may screw over the plug. The bend will keep water out and a foam breather can be stuffed inside the elbo.
The elbo will have a hole in the bottom so any water that may get in will not seep into the reservoir.

The CRAPPY swing down front leg that requires a pin to lock in place was removed and a proper trailer tongue jack was installed. No more fighting with the crappy stand and having a third wheel means swinging it a bit won't be difficult. The wheels are also crappy. Tires ok but to pull the rim you have to pull the bearings. A wheel with NO LUGS and I pull this down the highway. Crazy!!!!
I have a wheel with lugs from a small trailer which I'm thinking will fit the spindels. If so, I'll be able to carry a spare. Just like most crap, I'm having to reingeener this thing. I bought it used. Haven't looked at new ones. Looks like make cheap sell high is the new business model. Have a great day.


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## NSMaple1 (Nov 22, 2018)

*The fitting in question measured 22.25mm in fractions 111/128.*

That sounds like a 7/8" wrench should have been the right size. There could have been some brooming of the edges that prevented you from slipping the wrench on?


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## Wow (Nov 22, 2018)

NSMaple1 said:


> *The fitting in question measured 22.25mm in fractions 111/128.*
> 
> That sounds like a 7/8" wrench should have been the right size. There could have been some brooming of the edges that prevented you from slipping the wrench on?


7/8 was way too big. 22 mm is smaller than 7/8 and I had to shim the 22mm but ONLY on that 1 fitting. On everything else the 22 and 25 mm fit perfectly.
My suspicion is that who ever built this machine got the cylinder out of China already assembled with control valve attached. The ONE off sized fitting must have been an odd ball size or maybe a reject. In China everything goes as long as they get the job done. Some parts are SAE the pressure fittings are 22 and 25 mm. It was tough but I finally figured it out, well all but that ODD sized fitting. Maybe a special wrench fits that one and is found in a tool box in China. But everything else is standard. Wouldn't you know it, put the crazy odd ball fitting in the least acessable place. As I said. Next time the control valve comes off, a correctly sized fitting will go on. Thanks. Have a great day


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## muddstopper (Nov 22, 2018)

Probably a 21mm. You know the size that is never included in any wrench set ever.


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## NSMaple1 (Nov 22, 2018)

Wow said:


> 7/8 was way too big. 22 mm is smaller than 7/8 and I had to shim the 22mm but ONLY on that 1 fitting. On everything else the 22 and 25 mm fit perfectly.
> My suspicion is that who ever built this machine got the cylinder out of China already assembled with control valve attached. The ONE off sized fitting must have been an odd ball size or maybe a reject. In China everything goes as long as they get the job done. Some parts are SAE the pressure fittings are 22 and 25 mm. It was tough but I finally figured it out, well all but that ODD sized fitting. Maybe a special wrench fits that one and is found in a tool box in China. But everything else is standard. Wouldn't you know it, put the crazy odd ball fitting in the least acessable place. As I said. Next time the control valve comes off, a correctly sized fitting will go on. Thanks. Have a great day



Your measuring must have been off a little bit then, because 22.25mm = 14.02/16" = 7/8". That's what the math says at one inch = 25.4mm. Which it is.

111/128" = 13.875/16.

21mm is slightly larger than 13/16. (13.23/16). So 13/16 might have done it.


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## Wow (Nov 22, 2018)

muddstopper said:


> Probably a 21mm. You know the size that is never included in any wrench set ever.


Actually I made sure to get a 21 mm and tried it. It's to small. The fitting is a one of a kind. It measures 22.25mm. The 22 almost fits but has slop. Have a great day


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## Wow (Nov 22, 2018)

NSMaple1 said:


> Your measuring must have been off a little bit then, because 22.25mm = 14.02/16" = 7/8". That's what the math says at one inch = 25.4mm. Which it is.
> 
> 111/128" = 13.875/16.
> 
> 21mm is slightly larger than 13/16. (13.23/16). So 13/16 might have done it.


It was difficult to reach and yes at one measurement we got 7/8 and that was even bigger had more slop. The 22mm actually fit the hoses and the 25 mm fit the rest of the fittings. I took several readings and 22.25 mm was the most consistent. Thanks.


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## Wow (Nov 23, 2018)

Wow said:


> It was difficult to reach and yes at one measurement we got 7/8 and that was even bigger had more slop. The 22mm actually fit the hoses and the 25 mm fit the rest of the fittings. I took several readings and 22.25 mm was the most consistent. Thanks.


Update:
I finally took time to do the math and YES , 22.25 MM does equal 7/8.
NOW, I'm starting to wonder if the Harbor Frieght micrometer may be off a little bit.
Since I've solved the problem AND the 7/8 or 22 mm or the 21 mm don't fit I'll assume that is some off brand fitting OR it's possible the previous owner did something that causes it to be off size. It's the ONLY fitting that size. The others are either 22 or 24 mm. Problem Solved. Thanks.


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## NSMaple1 (Nov 23, 2018)

If you had to shim the 22m to get it to work, then obviously it isn't 22.25. Which is bigger, not smaller, than 22mm.

It also doesn't take much of a little burr on a nut sometimes, to make it hard to get the proper size wrench on. A burr could also maybe throw off a micrometer measurement. Sometimes if you try the wrench the rest of the way around the fitting, you can find a spot it will fit on right.

If the 21 was too small, and the 7/8 too big, it should have been 22 - which I think is my bet. There are no other sizes in between. The fitting must have been burred, or rounded, from some poor previous wrenchmanship or the like.

Anyway, at least you got it done...


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## Wow (Nov 23, 2018)

NSMaple1 said:


> If you had to shim the 22m to get it to work, then obviously it isn't 22.25. Which is bigger, not smaller, than 22mm.
> 
> It also doesn't take much of a little burr on a nut sometimes, to make it hard to get the proper size wrench on. A burr could also maybe throw off a micrometer measurement. Sometimes if you try the wrench the rest of the way around the fitting, you can find a spot it will fit on right.
> 
> ...


Fully agree. I suspect the previous owner slipped a wrench then flat file one side to fit a Cresent wrench. I was a hydraulic mechanic back in the Navy about 50 years ago. We Never used a cresent. Our wrenches looked kinda like a boxed end wrench with a section cut out big enough to go over a line. Slip it over a line and down on the fitting. 
The mesurements of my fitting was taken from the most accessible part of the fitting due to lines and location so it is likely I made a mistake. Thanks.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Nov 23, 2018)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> But then, if it's standard pipe thread, it doesn't belong on a hydraulic system in the first place!



Plenty of NPT fittings used in hydraulic systems.


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## Wow (Nov 29, 2018)

ChoppyChoppy said:


> Plenty of NPT fittings used in hydraulic systems.


Good news, I got the new parts on the Huskee 22 ton log splitter.
I've been using it today no leaks. Works like new.
I put a new hydraulic oil filter on and new fluid.
Strange thing. The filter appears to be on the Return side of the control valve. 
It looks like fluid feeds the pump DIRECTLY from the Resivor.
That would mean, any dirty fluid drawn from the resivor would flow through the system, pump, valve and cylinder before hitting the filter. 
Also, the fill cap to the resivior has NO filter. Water, dirt, wood chips anything can dirty the fluid. Using two, 1 1/4 90 degree elbows I created a bent tube and put a sock over that. The wrench sizes we're 22 and 25 mm.


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## NSMaple1 (Nov 30, 2018)

Wow said:


> Good news, I got the new parts on the Huskee 22 ton log splitter.
> I've been using it today no leaks. Works like new.
> I put a new hydraulic oil filter on and new fluid.
> Strange thing. The filter appears to be on the Return side of the control valve.
> ...



Yes, filter is on the return. Typical. Some have a coarse screen on the inlet/supply, at or in the tank. Any dirt that goes past there shouldn't make it back into the tank.

My filler cap has a dipstick fastened thru it & held with a nut on top. I keep half an empty plastic bottle on that to keep wet out. I changed my oil last winter because it had a lot of water in it. Pretty sure that's why.


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## kevin j (Nov 30, 2018)

you do not want a suction filter. it would be huge. 
suction strainers are are perpetual debate in the fluid power industry. I have used them a lot but I oversize by 3 to 4 times what the manufacturer rates. the danger of cavitation to a pump is really greater than the amount of stuff that the suction strainer helps with. industrial equipment Is usually filled by pumping oil into a quick coupler and through the return filter pump 

There should be a crude metal basket in the fill port to catch really large pieces of wood and there should be a filter breather on the tank to keep out airborne dust every time the cylinder cycles in an out

Log splitters and gear pumps are pretty crude and can tolerate more abuse either garbage or cavitation but the best insurance is a good operator


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## Wow (Nov 30, 2018)

kevin j said:


> you do not want a suction filter. it would be huge.
> suction strainers are are perpetual debate in the fluid power industry. I have used them a lot but I oversize by 3 to 4 times what the manufacturer rates. the danger of cavitation to a pump is really greater than the amount of stuff that the suction strainer helps with. industrial equipment Is usually filled by pumping oil into a quick coupler and through the return filter pump
> 
> There should be a crude metal basket in the fill port to catch really large pieces of wood and there should be a filter breather on the tank to keep out airborne dust every time the cylinder cycles in an out
> ...


There was some fluid in the Resivor. I couldn't find a drain valve to remove it but it looks clean so I added half a gallon. I run the crap out of it yesterday. The cylinder got pretty warm. I'm wondering if maybe I over heated it is why the seal blew. BTW, the new cylinder cost 219 on Amazon and free shipping. I'm told free until Christmas. Now was the perfect time to buy. BTW, there is no strainer in the fill on this one. The filter is the bigger one. Fortunately, I had a big filter tool 
Have a great day.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Nov 30, 2018)

Most suction screens have a bypass if they get clogged.


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