# Stihl 029 carb adjustment



## pianokzzz (May 8, 2007)

I hope someone can help me out here...I recently bought a used 029 with a bad carb...I purchased a new carb, installed it, made no adjustments, and usually it will crank right up....but at times, it will not start from apparent flooding right off the bat, even though it's choked. How can I insure the carb is set correctly? There appear to be 3 adjustment screws...2 (H & L) adjustments on top and 1 (L) adjustment screw just below those..From reading the manual off the Stihl website, it only mentions the 2 H L screws and the diagram does not even show a L screw below these other 2....any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Frustrated in TN,


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## THALL10326 (May 8, 2007)

pianokzzz said:


> I hope someone can help me out here...I recently bought a used 029 with a bad carb...I purchased a new carb, installed it, made no adjustments, and usually it will crank right up....but at times, it will not start from apparent flooding right off the bat, even though it's choked. How can I insure the carb is set correctly? There appear to be 3 adjustment screws...2 (H & L) adjustments on top and 1 (L) adjustment screw just below those..From reading the manual off the Stihl website, it only mentions the 2 H L screws and the diagram does not even show a L screw below these other 2....any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
> 
> Frustrated in TN,



Welp if you got a high speed adjustment screw and a low speed adjustment screw and a idle screw huh, ya gotta lotta screws there feller,lolol. Just messing with ya. Ok, heres what ya do with all them screws ya got on that carb. We call this the standard setting and its usually pretty close. Turn both the H and L screws in(clockwise) till they stop, don't force them, just to a stop. Then turn them back out (counter clockwise)1 full turn. Leave them right there and start the saw. Set your idle down to at least where the chain doesn't turn or high enuff to keep the motor running fairly smooth without any chain rotation. You now have a standard setting and the saw should run pretty good if all else is in good condintion. You may have to tinker with the H screw to get full power but you shouldn't have to give it more than a 1/8-1/4 turn in from the standard 1 turn out. Anymore than that your going lean and thats not good. If it cuts good at one full turn out on the H screw leave it right there and be happy...


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## sika (Apr 17, 2013)

*Same question.*

Sorry to drag up an 'ol post but I figured it was better than starting a new one.

Same deal. Got a 029, bout 15 years old. So it aint an MS290, its the 45mm bore 029.

Few things I dont get.... many instruction refer to turning the L and H leaner or richer. Question is, which direction makes them leaner or richer?

I.e Clockwise = richer: Anti = leaner.

I have watched youtube vids and read pages on this topic and it is confusing man. This page was good Carburetor Adjustment On Pro Saws, but again doesnt explain which way is which. 

Also when it says "turn the low speed (L) screw clockwise or counterclockwise to obtain maximum engine speed" (from the 029 Stihl manual page 71), I am like what the dang does that mean??! I though it was the H screw that adjusts the max.

I watched the vid below which was helpful but still confusing cause I cant see which way he is turning screws. 

[video=youtube;3eLe6uyV_Vg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eLe6uyV_Vg[/video]

For now I have set it 1 turn out on both L & H. I cant get it to run less than 13500 rpms (when the manual says max 12500) but have heard that may be due to age of the saw.

Still need simple instructions for adjusting using a tacho.


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## saw2012 (Apr 17, 2013)

Anti=richer clockwise=leaner
Turn both screws in fully (clockwise) until lightly seated than back of both screws 1 full turn (anti clockwise) then fine tune from there.


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## sika (Apr 17, 2013)

*Plug picture*

Thanks for replies again.

From the standard 1 turn out position I ended up with the L slightly clockwise (lean) a 1/8-1/4 turn and the H slightly anticlockwise (rich) by 1/8-1/4 turn.

The manual for these recons 12500 rpm is the top end. I am getting 13500, cant get lower.

I used the madsens method with the tacho.

Picture of the plug below after heading outside to cut some wood (click to enlarge). Probably should have actually cleaned the plug prior to test and picture, but oh well.

View attachment 290925


I think the tan color is the desired color. 

I don't think I can do better than that on a 15 year old saw.

I am thinking of a re-build however because I am now addicted to tinkering.


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## ROWDY (Apr 17, 2013)

I wish the term "clock" & "counter clock" would go away. And speak of the screws as in, or out for adjustments. I can get most carbs adjusted decent, but I'm not a pro at it by any means.


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## sika (Apr 17, 2013)

ROWDY said:


> I wish the term "clock" & "counter clock" would go away. And speak of the screws as in, or out for adjustments.



+1


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