# Peavey or Cant hook?



## NapalmDeath (Jul 21, 2006)

I'm looking at purchasing either a Cant Hook or a Peavey and was wondering which one is better suited for homeowner use or which one is prefered over the other. I'm leaning towards the Stihl 42" Cant Hook even though it's a few bucks more than the LogRite tools brand though they are both made by LogRite. I have also seen other brands that have wood handles which are as low as half as much as the aluminum handle versions. So which is the prefered type, Cant or Peavey? Aluminum or wood?


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## John Ellison (Jul 21, 2006)

I use both regularly. Mine are wood handled. The peavey is over 30 years old with the original handle. The Log rite tools look to be very well made.

I think that if you are moving logs above 20" or so you will want a fairly long handle. I like a short 4' cant hook for small logs and a five ft.+ peavey for big stuff. You can stab a peavey in the ground to keep it handy and it is real useful as a pry bar if you are working with big rounds or logs. But the point is just in the way on small logs.


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## beowulf343 (Jul 21, 2006)

Working a mill, I like a cant hook.
Off the skidder in the woods, I like a peavey.


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## clearance (Jul 21, 2006)

Peavey, cause you can stick it in a log, stump, the ground. A cant will get lost easily, or run over. Probably the best reason for one.


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## RoosterBoy (Jul 22, 2006)

hi can i see a picture of both a Kant hook and peavey

thanks
Jason


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## SRT-Tech (Jul 29, 2006)

CANT HOOK: (flat nose on working end of handle): 







PEAVEY HOOK: (pointed end for jamming into log - better torque/grip):


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## Gologit (Jul 30, 2006)

If you can only get one get the peavey. Getting both would be ideal and a short-handled cant hook can help a lot,too.


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## maul ratt (Feb 5, 2008)

*Logrite Peavey*

I'm new to what a peavey would do. When I'm in the woods, I have a heavy black steel rod about 5' long that I picked up at Lowes and use it to pry the log over or move it around. Would a Logrite Peavey pick the log up and lift it off the ground just enough to keep the saw blade from hitting the ground? I'm wondering if I can buck a tree without the log stand ($35 option)? Any advice on this would be helpful. I'm thinking about purchasing something to help me in the woods asap and want to spend $100+ wisely.
Thanks.


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## Ductape (Feb 5, 2008)

Maul...... you want a timber jack. Similar, but with a leg opposite the hook. Roll the log over onto the leg and its up outta the dirt so you can make your cut.


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## 046 (Feb 5, 2008)

how much is the stihl peavey vs logrite?



NapalmDeath said:


> I'm looking at purchasing either a Cant Hook or a Peavey and was wondering which one is better suited for homeowner use or which one is prefered over the other. I'm leaning towards the Stihl 42" Cant Hook even though it's a few bucks more than the LogRite tools brand though they are both made by LogRite. I have also seen other brands that have wood handles which are as low as half as much as the aluminum handle versions. So which is the prefered type, Cant or Peavey? Aluminum or wood?


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## blazemaeko (Feb 5, 2008)

Ductape,
since you mentioned the timber jack for lifting the logs to cut it off the ground. Ran in to the problem of cutting logs that are 60' long and resting on the ground. Trying to cut the logs without hitting the ground and the timber jack can't roll the logs because of the size. Looking for any shortcuts to get the logs off the ground and get a log under it. Any suggestions?


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## kevin j (Feb 5, 2008)

I tried the timberjack, same story. Can' just lift a log without rolling, and by definition, mostly the logs needing lifting have branches etc that can't be rolled.

I added a pivoting foot to my cant hook. That does alow some lift, enoughh to kick some blocking under it, and get new bite and lift again. Works well up to 18-20 inches or so, workable but hard after that. 

pic on this thread

http://www.**********/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/14869/


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## Wood Doctor (Feb 6, 2008)

*TimberJack?*

About $40 will get you this one:




Sale price at Northen Tools. The log must roll a little for it to work. Sometimes that's just plain impossible.

Usually I can find a place where I can saw the log in half without a lift. Then the lift can take over from there.


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## blazemaeko (Feb 6, 2008)

Doc,
Thats what I've been using but came across some logs which the town cut down. The problem is the logs are too long to roll and some are laying flat on the ground after making a few cuts. Thought about just taking a car jack just to get the logs off the ground and get a block under it. Just wondering how everyone else does it. Really like those skidding units for atvs.


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## IndyIan (Feb 6, 2008)

I just use a peavey on my logs after I've cut them into rollable lengths. Make all the cuts 3/4 the way through, then roll and finish all the cuts. 

When using a timber jack do you use a wedge every time to avoid pinching? Just curious.


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## blazemaeko (Feb 6, 2008)

That was the problem, trying to cut the logs into rollable pieces. Even with a wedge it is difficult to handle these larger logs. Hate to pass on these logs because they are right down the road. Dulling the chains quicker than I would like with the skidded logs, don't need to dull them quicker by hitting the ground.


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## Ductape (Feb 6, 2008)

I found my timberjack to be indispensible.....i rarely wedge when using it, because i jack, then cut beyond the jack. Chunk just falls off the end. That being said...... you guys are right, there are times its impossible to use. I have no magic tricks for those times. As mentioned..... cutting most of the way through then rolling can be done. If possible, maybe you can use a come-along with a nylon strap to a nearby tree...... lift the log enough to shove a chunk of wood under the center (watch yourself!) then cut. When i'm out cutting, i've got my timberjack, comealong, couple nylon straps, chains,5' pinch bar,sledge,maul,wedges,etc.,etc. I bring home some big rounders cuz i have a couple friends that are afraid of them (nancy boys!). I don't like leaving anything behind because its too big. I too am open to new methods if anyone has suggestions !!


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## kevin j (Feb 6, 2008)

I am vry picky about never ever touching dirt.

For smaller stuff, up to maybe 18 icnhes, I use the cant with pivoting foot directly. 

For larger stuff, I found a piece of oak 4x4 square that was cut as a taper. 0 to 4 inches high in about 18 inches long. I put a piece of 4 to 8 inch diameter round, about 18 inches long, parallel to the trunk and kick in under as far as possible on one side. Go to other side, either use the cant with the pivot foot, or fold the foot back and just use it as a lever. put another small round next to the trunk as a pivot point, and use the cant over it as lever. With a little bouncing and get some momentum, I can lift enough for the helper (I never cut alone) to slide the wedge under it. Once that is in, it's easy to keep bouncing, rocking, or levering as approriate. Mvoing the wedge in, then thorw some rounds in crosswise under it. Then start bucking off the suspeended end. Quicker than it sounds. 

kcj


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## blazemaeko (Feb 6, 2008)

I'll have to get some pics of the trees and see what every ones opinion is. The easiest solution,atleast for this haul of wood, would be to leave a present for the excavator operator and have him stack the logs. Too bad it doesn't work for most loads.


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## woodchuck361 (Feb 6, 2008)

Ductape said:


> Maul...... you want a timber jack. Similar, but with a leg opposite the hook. Roll the log over onto the leg and its up outta the dirt so you can make your cut.



+1 use it love it.


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## maul ratt (Feb 7, 2008)

*Logrite Peavey*

Does anyone out there who owns a 60" Logrite peavey think that I would regret buying it? I think the timberjacks are nice however, I'm leaning to the peavey because of the durable aluminum construction . Thanks.


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## buckwheat (Feb 7, 2008)

Couple of things: If you're felling a big tree, put some loose branches across the path where you are hoping to drop it. When it does drop, make sure you get into your safety zone fast, because it may bounce a bit, or the branches might break and fly out under the weight of the trunk.

If the tree is already dropped and its on level ground, watch your chips as you buck down through it. As you come into the bark layer at the end, the chips will be smaller and darker, plus you'll sense the saw cutting quicker - time to stop. At that point, you can usually snap the round loose, as the only thing holding it is the bark. On larger rounds I prefer the cant, but I admit to not having much experience with a peavey.

Also, make sure the round is going to stay where it's at and not take off on you once you cut it. I use wedges as it is, but also make a point to cut uphill of the trunk (obvious to most), and or wedge another round up against the trunk to hold the round(s) in place.

If its humanly possible, I roll the round to the truck and up a set of ramps that I have, but if its just too heavy, I'll take the saw and quarter the rounds on the spot. Remember to lift with the legs and not the back!


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## Ductape (Feb 7, 2008)

buckwheat said:


> If its humanly possible, I roll the round to the truck and up a set of ramps that I have, but if its just too heavy, I'll take the saw and quarter the rounds on the spot. Remember to lift with the legs and not the back!





Great points here! I can't count the number of people who have questioned me on how i get rounds three feet + across in the back of my truck or trailer. I use a couple 2x6s or the tailgate from the trailer to make a ramp and just roll the rounders up into the back. Be careful..... but this is so much easier than quartering or halving then lifting the pieces. Strange how more people can't figure this out. As always.... stay within your ability and be safe out there ! :greenchainsaw:


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## Wood Doctor (Feb 7, 2008)

Ductape said:


> Great points here! I can't count the number of people who have questioned me on how i get rounds three feet + across in the back of my truck or trailer. I use a couple 2x6s or the tailgate from the trailer to make a ramp and just roll the rounders up into the back. Be careful..... but this is so much easier than quartering or halving then lifting the pieces. Strange how more people can't figure this out. As always.... stay within your ability and be safe out there ! :greenchainsaw:


I have one suggestion that I use on those big (up to 300 lb) rounds:
1) Buy a hand winch for about $15 or so from Harbor Freight or TSC.
2) Now make a rear hardwood rack, L-shaped cross section using 1 x 4s, and bolt 2 x 2 hardwood posts about 18" long that drop deep into your truck bed's wells. Beef these up as need be to fill the well.
3) Bolt the winch to the center of the horizontal rack, crank oriented horizontal.
4) Wrap the cable around the big rounds and drag them up the ramps to the tailgate on their flat side. The winch makes it easy.
5) Once on the tailgate, you can then slide the rounds underneath the rear rack and into the truck's bed.

Piece of cake (and I know that it works). I made my winch setup to mate with the side racks shown in my avatar. The winch rack temporarily replaces the removable rear rack.


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## kevin j (Feb 7, 2008)

I figure I have to then handle them on the other end also. If I can't load them, I probably can'ty handle them at home, so saw them down if necessary in the the woods. Leaves the mess there, but takes a lot more time. I also don't have a place to unload easily and split big pieces, so that makes a difference in my situation.


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## 046 (Feb 12, 2008)

how's about a pic?



Wood Doctor said:


> I have one suggestion that I use on those big (up to 300 lb) rounds:
> 1) Buy a hand winch for about $15 or so from Harbor Freight or TSC.
> 2) Now make a rear hardwood rack, L-shaped cross section using 1 x 4s, and bolt 2 x 2 hardwood posts about 18" long that drop deep into your truck bed's wells. Beef these up as need be to fill the well.
> 3) Bolt the winch to the center of the horizontal rack, crank oriented horizontal.
> ...


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## 2dogs (Feb 12, 2008)

Here is a link to Logrite. They make the tools for Stihl. Beware of the Chicom knockoffs being sold on ebay.

http://logrite.com/


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## Zodiac45 (Feb 13, 2008)

Wood Doctor said:


> I have one suggestion that I use on those big (up to 300 lb) rounds:
> 1) Buy a hand winch for about $15 or so from Harbor Freight or TSC.
> 2) Now make a rear hardwood rack, L-shaped cross section using 1 x 4s, and bolt 2 x 2 hardwood posts about 18" long that drop deep into your truck bed's wells. Beef these up as need be to fill the well.
> 3) Bolt the winch to the center of the horizontal rack, crank oriented horizontal.
> ...



Like to see a pix of that setup Doc. Handy if your working alone.

Nice Ranger by the way! I have one too (Tonto) and the old bugger's been around since 86' and still going strong although lately it's just been a plow truck for the driveway. Gettin a little "tender" as they say body wise.

I have a cant dog in the truck at all times (50yr old wood handle) and the timberjack is a handy piece for bucking firewood logs in the field or by the splitter. Some of the timberjacks you can just pull a pin and it's a cant dog.


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## Wood Doctor (Feb 13, 2008)

*PIC of Winch Rack*



046 said:


> how's about a pic?



You got it. I'll try to set up a separate post with two or three Pics. Thing is, I split all the big billet rounds I had last fall, but I'll try to dig one up so that I can show the winch rack in action.

I also built my own ramps for sliding, but any set of ramps would work--even 6' long 2 by 10's. My ramps are light and will fit in the back of the extended truck cab.

This idea is a terrific back saver. In the past, I used to build "stairs" out of smaller logs in order to get the big billets on board, but that's now a thing of the past. The other option is a small crane that bolts to the truck, but that seems to be a permanent $100 installation.


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## coppermouse (Feb 13, 2008)

I have one of the Northern Tool timberjack and it is too small won't handle logs nore that about 14" it seems


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## Zodiac45 (Feb 13, 2008)

Wood Doctor said:


> I also built my own ramps for sliding, but any set of ramps would work--even 6' long 2 by 10's. My ramps are light and will fit in the back of the extended truck cab.
> 
> This idea is a terrific back saver. In the past, I used to build "stairs" out of smaller logs in order to get the big billets on board, but that's now a thing of the past. The other option is a small crane that bolts to the truck, but that seems to be a permanent $100 installation.



Yep I've looked at a couple of those at Northern or Harbor Freight? 

I like the simplicity of the winch/ramp slide. One could use a boat winch (off the trailor) or the like and actually it's the same principle. Just a matter of the mounting it too the front of the pickup bed or there abouts. I'll wait and see Doc's pix.opcorn:


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## TobyNC (Feb 13, 2008)

*rolling a big one*

I've got 2 cants, 4' and a 2', and a 5' pevy,(wood handles, older then dirt) most of the time i just use the cants. For the bigger stuff ,say 40"+, I've been known to drive a railroad spike in till its solid, then either the winch ,or just hook a chain to it and roll it over till I can finish the cuts. I do use smaller pieces ,that i've already cut, to block up a log, I try not to take alot of extra stuff with me. Now saying that , if you were to look at the inside of the landcruiser, you would know that I've got some of everthing . and not very often, do I need to add anything. As to the chunks, I mostly cut 15-18" thick. I have had to either cut or split 1/2's and 1/4's. Yes ,I do work mostly by myself, and Yes ,untill i started hanging out at AS ,I never give it much thought , but I've done just about ever dumb thing, that your NOT supose to do with a chainsaw. and have been lucky enough to still have all my parts in one piece. Grin, now what was this thread about........


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