# Can barely pull starter rope



## roaldeuller (Nov 27, 2006)

I have a Stihl 290 ("Farm Boss") which has been used moderately for a couple of years. It has always started reasonably well (most of the time anyway ;-) and I have been happy with it. In particular, when pulling the starter rope, the action has always been smooth and easy, and the engine has turned over without a fuss. 

This past weekend, from one pull to the next, the action became very jerky and difficult, such that the rope now can barely be pulled out in a serious of very stiff jerks. I first thought that perhaps the rope had fouled, so I opened up the housing, but the rope was running free and clear, so no problem there. However, when I rotated the now exposed flywheel by hand, there is an extremely stiff section once every revolution, that feels like back-pressure that won't release. So my thinking now is that something is wrong internally.

I am ready to take the saw in to a dealer, but I wondered whether anyone has some thoughts on this problem. Am I missing something painfully obvious?

Thanks in advance!


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## PES+ (Nov 27, 2006)

*A question*

Are you comfortable taking off the muffler? It is a quick way to check things out


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## doc874 (Nov 27, 2006)

*029*

This could be several problems, bearings could be worn/wore-out, cylinder could be burned or scored and have aluminum transfer from a piston, Unfortunately until the saw is taken apart the problem likely won't be indentifiable. Check clutch side of the saw first before going to a dealer, look for brake band partially engaged or brake parts broken or worn also check clutch for damage etc... and move brake lever in and out of lock position it could be as simple as it never disengaged properly due to build-up of debris, this is the least expensive initial check. Good luck and let us know outcome.

Doc


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## ohio hunter (Nov 27, 2006)

check the starter dog. i had the same problem.


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## retoocs555 (Nov 27, 2006)

Take the spark plug out. If the saw doesn't pull over real easy with the plug removed you've got problems. If it does pull over nice and easy you probably have a blocked up exhaust.


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## Dan Forsh (Nov 27, 2006)

roaldeuller said:


> ...when I rotated the now exposed flywheel by hand, there is an extremely stiff section once every revolution, that feels like back-pressure that won't release...




I'm not sure how stiff is too stiff but you aren't just hitting the compression stroke are you? take out the spark plug and try to turn it the same way. If it is still stiff "Houston we have a problem" suspect you might have a broken ring maybe.

Or needle bearing has gone south maybe?


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## roaldeuller (Nov 27, 2006)

*thank you for all the excellent advice folks*

Thanks everyone, so far this is great and very timely advice. 

Just so you know, I did remove the spark plug and could feel just as much resistance as before, which makes me think the problem is in the action of the piston stroke itself.

Also, as for "how stiff is stiff" - it is so stiff that I effectively can't start the saw - it is simply too jerkey and requires too much brute/uncontrolled force on my part to overcome the resistance.


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## wagonwheeler (Nov 27, 2006)

Did it sit unused for an unusually long time or was this during/following recent use? Was it old gas mix or fresh?

I had a 440 (albeit squished) that was very stiff like you say, but it had semi-dry lower end from sitting up. Got some lube in there and it freed right up.

I surmised it was jerky in the same spot each time, as you describe, since the lube settled to the lowest point in the bearings and then as it dried out the residue was concentrated there.

Chaser


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## Lakeside53 (Nov 27, 2006)

roaldeuller said:


> Thanks everyone, so far this is great and very timely advice.
> 
> Just so you know, I did remove the spark plug and could feel just as much resistance as before, which makes me think the problem is in the action of the piston stroke itself.
> 
> Also, as for "how stiff is stiff" - it is so stiff that I effectively can't start the saw - it is simply too jerkey and requires too much brute/uncontrolled force on my part to overcome the resistance.




Pull the muffler... with the plug out it should almost "freewheel"... trying to start the saw will not achieve anything... even if it starts.


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## Lakeside53 (Nov 27, 2006)

wagonwheeler said:


> I had a 440 (albeit squished) that was very stiff like you say, but it had semi-dry lower end from sitting up. Got some lube in there and it freed right up.
> 
> Chaser



Hey... that saw will rise for the ashes real soon... as a bastard child, with many parents.. but... You'll see a thread in a couple of weeks...


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## ATedK (Feb 24, 2007)

roaldeuller:
Did you ever find out what the problem was?

My 290 now does the same thing. It ran through a couple tanks of gas last week and then while cutting some wood I put the saw down for 20 minutes while cleaning up some branches. When I went to restart, the rope would barely pull. It feels like I am pulling into a compression stroke then when the saw starts to catch it feels like a backfire and the rope jerks back. I am reminded of hand cranked engines; if you didn't get your hand off the crank you could break your hand on the start. 

I'm going to drain the tank and start checking the obvious; but if you have any feedback I'd appreciate it.


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## Timberhauler (Feb 24, 2007)

Chunk it and buy a new one.


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## Stihl #1 (Feb 24, 2007)

If it has a tight spot with the plug out look through the spark plug hole and see if it is tight at TDC. If so you may some carbon buildup jamming around the squish band. Stihl has out a decarbonized liquid, mainly for the 4-MIX(R) engines, but it will work to get the carbon out of a 2 stroke as well.


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## Fish (Feb 24, 2007)

I will give you $50 bucks for the saw, let me know, and send a pic....


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## ComposerChick (Jan 11, 2013)

roaldeuller said:


> I have a Stihl 290 ("Farm Boss") which has been used moderately for a couple of years. It has always started reasonably well (most of the time anyway ;-) and I have been happy with it. In particular, when pulling the starter rope, the action has always been smooth and easy, and the engine has turned over without a fuss.
> 
> This past weekend, from one pull to the next, the action became very jerky and difficult, such that the rope now can barely be pulled out in a serious of very stiff jerks. I first thought that perhaps the rope had fouled, so I opened up the housing, but the rope was running free and clear, so no problem there. However, when I rotated the now exposed flywheel by hand, there is an extremely stiff section once every revolution, that feels like back-pressure that won't release. So my thinking now is that something is wrong internally.
> 
> ...



I had the same problem; pulling the rope was jerky. I first pulled the plug and verified the piston was working and it DID pull freely. I than pulled the chain/bar cover, and cleaned it up. Note the Clutch was locked up, I then took the cover off the brake just above the clutch and hit the handle brake and heard a click, the clutch was now free! Slapped it all back together and voila it started right up. 
Be sure it inspect the break mechanism for broken springs or levers. Easy Do-it-your self Fix!

If at first you don't succeed; try try again.
And I'm A Girl LOL.


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## kmcinms (Jan 11, 2013)

ComposerChick said:


> I had the same problem; pulling the rope was jerky. I first pulled the plug and verified the piston was working and it DID pull freely. I than pulled the chain/bar cover, and cleaned it up. Note the Clutch was locked up, I then took the cover off the brake just above the clutch and hit the handle brake and heard a click, the clutch was now free! Slapped it all back together and voila it started right up.
> Be sure it inspect the break mechanism for broken springs or levers. Easy Do-it-your self Fix!
> 
> If at first you don't succeed; try try again.
> *And I'm A Girl *LOL.



Pics or it isn't true!!!!! :rolleyes2:

Wow! talk about digging up old threads. Whutz up with all this lately?


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## TreeTangler (Jan 11, 2013)

kmcinms said:


> Pics or it isn't true!!!!! :rolleyes2:
> 
> Wow! talk about digging up old threads. Whutz up with all this lately?



I'm assuming folks are using the search function! lol.


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 11, 2013)

*Fish's Offer Looks Good*



Fish said:


> I will give you $50 bucks for the saw, let me know, and send a pic....


Fish knows what I know. A good mechanic can probably rebuild that engine with new rings and a new piston, clean out the cylinder dome, and it may run after a day of solid work. It may also need a new cylinder. However, you may have other problems as well, and that includes a wrecked crankshaft bearing. 

You have a non-running saw and $50 is about all that it is worth. If I were you, I'd take Fish up on his offer unless you want to give it a go yourself. A new MS 290 runs about $400. You can also buy a new one and save this one for parts.


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## TreeTangler (Jan 11, 2013)

Wood Doctor said:


> Fish knows what I know. A good mechanic can probably rebuild that engine with new rings and a new piston, clean out the cylinder dome, and it may run after a day of solid work. It may also need a new cylinder. However, you may have other problems as well, and that includes a wrecked crankshaft bearing.
> 
> You have a non-running saw and $50 is about all that it is worth. If I were you, I'd take Fish up on his offer unless you want to give it a go yourself. A new MS 290 runs about $400. You can also buy a new one and save this one for parts.



Hahaha, Fish's offer is 5 years old! :msp_biggrin:


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## Jeff Lary (Jan 11, 2013)

$ 52.75


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## 066blaster (Jan 11, 2013)

I had a backpack blower that fell over in in my truck and flooded. when i went to pull it i spun the flywheel key sounds similar, it was an easy fix. it might just be catching on the broke key causing the jerking


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## Fish (Jan 11, 2013)

TreeTangler said:


> Hahaha, Fish's offer is 5 years old! :msp_biggrin:



Still good baby.............


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## Timber Jim (Jan 11, 2013)

doc874 said:


> This could be several problems, bearings could be worn/wore-out, cylinder could be burned or scored and have aluminum transfer from a piston, Unfortunately until the saw is taken apart the problem likely won't be indentifiable. Check clutch side of the saw first before going to a dealer, look for brake band partially engaged or brake parts broken or worn also check clutch for damage etc... and move brake lever in and out of lock position it could be as simple as it never disengaged properly due to build-up of debris, this is the least expensive initial check. Good luck and let us know outcome.
> 
> Doc



Thanks Doc you solved my MS 290 problem"build up of debris kept brake from disengaging properly" explains what happen to me and burned out clutch and brake band.


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## Timber Jim (Jan 11, 2013)

Timber Jim said:


> Thanks Doc you solved my MS 290 problem"build up of debris kept brake from disengaging properly" explains what happen to me and burned out clutch and brake band.



Dont think dealer will warranty this ( saw's only 6 weeks old) but it makes sense with the particulars of the events prior to saw dying. I cut about 4 logs that nite, filled it with gas and oil never thought to take cover off and clean it. Live and LEARN!


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## Fish (Jan 11, 2013)

Timber Jim said:


> Thanks Doc you solved my MS 290 problem"build up of debris kept brake from disengaging properly" explains what happen to me and burned out clutch and brake band.



doc and me stihl have issues, I think....


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## kmcinms (Jan 11, 2013)

I'm sthil waiting for pics of the composer chicK.....:cool2:


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 11, 2013)

*Fish is on His Game*



Fish said:


> Still good baby.............


So is my analysis. That is all that a saw that does not run is worth, about $50. You can find a bunch on e-bay today and in local garage sales all over the USA for even less. That's the way it is.

Take a saw that does not run into a small engine saw shop today. Eventually, you will pay the bill for parts, labor, and sales tax after they finally get the engine to run. It could take weeks. Have you ever seen sticker shock?


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## HuskStihl (Jan 11, 2013)

ComposerChick said:


> If at first you don't succeed; try try again.
> And I'm A Girl LOL.




You are grown woman, not a girl. I would hate to see sexism creep into this beautiful site!:msp_wink:


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## smallengineghuru (Sep 30, 2022)

Had a similar situation with a customer's MS 290 it appeared that it had like a lot of compression and it jerk back a lot didn't even start I didn't take the muffler off to check for scoring cuz I figured it was something else on that note found the culprit it had a Bosch spark plug and it should take a original NGK BPM 7A which caused vibration thus the flywheel nut backed off just enough it has an integrated flywheel key that appeared fine after I took the flywheel off found out that the fly will not was loose from the get-go which all this was a domino effect tightened it up to 35 foot pounds and she runs perfect had nothing to do with a clutch break on this one


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## Old2stroke (Oct 1, 2022)

Wrong plug caused vibration? Seriously?


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## river of smoak (Oct 1, 2022)

. . . , , they are free


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## 261cm (Oct 1, 2022)

Old2stroke said:


> Wrong plug caused vibration? Seriously?


Well you know how to fix’em now don’t you? lol


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## smallengineghuru (Oct 1, 2022)

Old2stroke said:


> Wrong plug caused vibration? Seriously?


Yes,can cause things to go south..wrong plug from get go,look it up


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## smallengineghuru (Oct 1, 2022)

261cm said:


> Well you know how to fix’em now don’t you? lol


Wrong plug from get go..can cause an engine to go south..scorring,loose nuts,thrown rods,busted needle bearing,trash block..


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## Captain Bruce (Oct 1, 2022)

Timber Jim said:


> Dont think dealer will warranty this ( saw's only 6 weeks old) but it makes sense with the particulars of the events prior to saw dying. I cut about 4 logs that nite, filled it with gas and oil never thought to take cover off and clean it. Live and LEARN!


Page 12 of the manual, states, " Remove clutch cover, bar, and chain. Brush out debris, inspect drum bearing." after each use.


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## a. palmer jr. (Oct 1, 2022)

Captain Bruce said:


> Page 12 of the manual, states, " Remove clutch cover, bar, and chain. Brush out debris, inspect drum bearing." after each use.


Most people around here put their saws up dirty and don't think about them until they get ready to use them the next time, even if it's next year..


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## atpchas (Oct 1, 2022)

smallengineghuru said:


> Had a similar situation with a customer's MS 290 it appeared that it had like a lot of compression and it jerk back a lot didn't even start I didn't take the muffler off to check for scoring cuz I figured it was something else on that note found the culprit it had a Bosch spark plug and it should take a original NGK BPM 7A which caused vibration thus the flywheel nut backed off just enough it has an integrated flywheel key that appeared fine after I took the flywheel off found out that the fly will not was loose from the get-go which all this was a domino effect tightened it up to 35 foot pounds and she runs perfect had nothing to do with a clutch break on this one


Screen shot from MS290 IPL:


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## sean donato (Oct 1, 2022)

Amd somehow we revived a thread from 2013.........


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## Old2stroke (Oct 2, 2022)

smallengineghuru said:


> Wrong plug from get go..can cause an engine to go south..scorring,loose nuts,thrown rods,busted needle bearing,trash block..


Wrong plug may be wrong heat range or wrong reach etc., and can lead to problems for sure, but it has to be misfiring to produce vibrations. If FW is mounted correctly and nut properly torqued, no amount of vibration will shake the nut loose.


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## a. palmer jr. (Oct 2, 2022)

Drop start


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