# Help with cutting and felling techniques



## bnmc98 (May 3, 2013)

Hi, new to the forum here. 
I was wondering if there are any resources for different cutting techniques to get the trees where you want them. any veterans that want to share wisdom as well.

I am a timber faller but have not been doing it that long and my knowledge of cuts is limited. I am sick of pushing and wedging if you know what I mean.

Any help would be great.
thanks Brian.


----------



## northmanlogging (May 4, 2013)

The falling pics thread is a good start, or just hang around on here you'll pick something up everyday. 

as far as wedging and pushing, change your lay, if possible. fall em in the direction of the most common lean, unless you have to fall in a specific direction for yarding or skidding, if that's the case quit winning and get a bigger ax.

And by pushing you mean leaning on the damn thing until it falls right? cause sending another tree into it is dangerous as Hel, pushing multiples is just stupid for a newbie (its just stupid anyways...IMO)

And last but not least, wedging is a fact of life for west coast logging (and yes I'm including Montana in that, but only just). Get used to it, and get good at it.


----------



## Spotted Owl (May 4, 2013)

Are you for real? 

The last thing I read of yours you were telling someone how to do something. Such as 60 to 90 degrees from the lean and push it over if it was going to slow. Now your here looking for basics? There was some good stuff in that thread that you tossed off to the side with thing thing that you put up. 

I'll quote you here:

"I would fall it (if able to) 60-90 degrees to the side. 40% face cut and then walk your back cut in, when you get to the hinge, if it doesn't go over slowly, give it a push, the tree is not that big and this way you don't have to worry about it splitting and chairing on you.
just my opinion, and that is all it is. Good luck."

The tree is not that big and you don;t have to worry about splitting or chairing? I'll tell on myself a bit here. I just got a 12" Alder to chair out on me. Yup scared the crap out of me cause I wasn't expecting it. Size don't mean anything when it comes to a chair. Lean means a GREAT deal. Gotta be ready for a chair anytime, especially with a leaner. Hardwoods have all kinds of pent up energy in them, from my dealings with'em. That tree far as I saw it was a chair waiting to happen, specially the way you called it. If a guy is pushing on a tree, where is he standing? What's gonna happen to him if it does chair? Small don't matter, you gotta think about every thing you cut. A 6"er will screw you up of you turn your back on it and it does something unexpected.

At least you're asking. That's good. Hopefully it will keep you alive long enough to get old. I would suggest this right off, first and foremost. If you are already a faller, you don't work alone very much being green I would hope. Find an old faller and watch him for a while and ask him everything he can stand to hear.

Reread that thread that I quoted you from earlier, good stuff there, read tricky tree, The picture one, the felling direction question. There tons of good stuff to be had here. Do some looking. If you come upon specific questions ask. Those are much easier to answer than what you have put before the masses, with your general lay it all on me thing here.

If you're in wood small enough to push over by hand, and you have to push them by hand, you are doing something wrong. Even if it's just cutting a corner to save time.

Wedging is something you're gonna have to get used too. Ever see a cutters belt that had no wedges? I never have, unless he all of them buried on the back. Wait until you get into having to use jacks, you don't like wedges you're gonna hate jacks.

The only thing that really teaches is time. Eyes and ears open, mouth shut. Do as you're told by your teacher not as he does. If you have one he should have the time to know things you are years from knowing. If you don't, slow down take, your time, pay attention and be ready. 



Owl


----------



## bnmc98 (May 4, 2013)

Spotted Owl said:


> Are you for real?
> 
> The last thing I read of yours you were telling someone how to do something. Such as 60 to 90 degrees from the lean and push it over if it was going to slow. Now your here looking for basics? There was some good stuff in that thread that you tossed off to the side with thing thing that you put up.
> 
> ...



Just because I posted this thread does not mean I dont know the basics, but I can see how you might read that. Maybe I should have been more clear. I am looking for other cutting techniques that are more advanced than the basics.

I have cut hundreds of trees like that one you are quoting me on, so I do have some knowledge in that area, but I do understand how you might think that I do not without knowing me. I too have had chairs and they have scared the crap out of me, that is why I posted what I posted, take it for what it is worth.

I am trying to figure out how not to have to wedge and push trees that are leaning in different ways than I need to lay them for skidding. and I am not talking about whole swaths of trees that are leaning a certain way.

Not trying to be rude, just trying to be more clear.


----------



## Gologit (May 4, 2013)

bnmc98 said:


> Just because I posted this thread does not mean I dont know the basics, but I can see how you might read that. Maybe I should have been more clear. I am looking for other cutting techniques that are more advanced than the basics.
> 
> I have cut hundreds of trees like that one you are quoting me on, so I do have some knowledge in that area, but I do understand how you might think that I do not without knowing me. I too have had chairs and they have scared the crap out of me, that is why I posted what I posted, take it for what it is worth.
> 
> ...



What do you have against using wedges? Sure, it's low tech but they _work_.

You can learn a lot about fancy cuts here. There are several cuts that can swing a tree against a lean or help you keep everything in lead. The problem with the fancy cuts is that, as you know, every tree is different. What works on one might not work on another.

Don't fall into the trap of thinking "if I do _this_, the tree will do _that_." It might and it might not.

Learn to use wedges.


----------



## forestryworks (May 4, 2013)

Real fallers (and those who aspire to be so) carry 2-3 wedges on their person. 

A few years ago, I was falling hazard trees in a state park. I had just finished a tree that needed a bit of wedging to coax it over and away from the trail. I waved over a handful of hikers, giving them the "all clear" to pass through. 

One guy stopped by and asked, "What are them red and white things?" I responded they are wedges. "Wedges?!" He barely gets the word out, laughing only with himself. "I don't use wedges, just put 'um where they lean." Tempted to tell him any nincompoop can "fall" a tree where it leans and leave a jackstrawed mess, I responded instead with, "Yeah? That's cause you don't do directional falling. I do." And with that, he shut up and left, not a sound save his footfalls. 

So yes, wedges work. Learn to use them if you want to be a real timber faller. Wedging is a fact of life in the woods.


----------



## roberte (May 4, 2013)

Otjt


----------



## treeslayer2003 (May 4, 2013)

I have not wrecked a saw since I started using wedges, I allways carry them now even if you don't need it on a tree its in the back pocket in case sumthing goes wrong at the least it can save your saw at best your life..... and it makes the skidders job easier :biggrin:


----------



## 137cc (May 4, 2013)

Wedges work, this is a fact. But more than a few fellers that taught me early on rarely use them. They would usually cary a couple of wedges. But the wedges would stay in the back pocket or pouch most of the day. Understanding the actual lean of the tree is more important. Gravity is a law, not an opinion. The majority of trees out there can be put into their lay without wedges. If a tree won't go one way without wedges, then you can usually take it the opposite direction without them.

If your sick of pushing and wedging it sounds to me like you aren't properly determining the actual lean of the tree. Take more time assessing which way the tree leans first before you start cutting. Pounding wedges all day will wear out the best of us. Don't get me wrong, throwing in a wedge for insurance is a good thing. I like to just stick in a wedge without tapping it, I call it a feeler wedge. It the wedge starts to drop the everything is good. If it straightens up then I know it time to start pounding.

Judging the actual lean of a tree can be difficult, especially when your not on flat ground. You can make a quick and easy plumb bob with some string and washers, or you can use your falling axe if it has a straight handle.


----------



## HuskStihl (May 4, 2013)

This thread seems to have lots of experienced fallers and now one noob. Question about the leaning tree owl referenced. For whatever reason, my property has lots of trees like that. Mostly live oaks, but sycamore, cedar and pecan as well. The trees I cut have typically died in the past year and are pretty solid. I don't mill, so don't care about saving stem length. With that said, with a heavy leaning hardwood I usually make a deep 50-60% open face cut placed about chest height. Quick back cut starting about 4" above the face and sloping down to leave about 2" of holding wood height. I actually can bore without too much excitement (chain brake activation), but don't do it much. What are the pitfalls/dangers of falling leaners this way? 
Thanks, and again, no need to be gentle. historically only women can make me cry


----------



## HuskStihl (May 4, 2013)

I just noticed I am an "ArboristSite MVP"! L. O. ####ing L! Bob, seriously, can you make mine say "Noob MVP"? That would genuinely please me, and appropriately warn my threadmates!


----------



## treeslayer2003 (May 4, 2013)

HuskStihl said:


> I just noticed I am an "ArboristSite MVP"! L. O. ####ing L! Bob, seriously, can you make mine say "Noob MVP"? That would genuinely please me, and appropriately warn my threadmates!



yea i'm suddenly a senieor member, dont' know how, guess I talk to much  if your cuts been working you ain't doing to bad, I normally make a deeper face in hard wood than is recommended.
on the heavy leaners greatest danger is chair or slab, imo boreing cut is best on these and you get better at it the more you do it. maybe practice on some not so heavy leaners remember cutting leaners is not about controlling direction but getting tree on ground safely so do this on trees that you know were they will fall. I never leave much hinge on hard wood, check two chains falling pics out


----------



## HuskStihl (May 4, 2013)

treeslayer2003 said:


> yea i'm suddenly a senieor member, dont' know how, guess I talk to much  if your cuts been working you ain't doing to bad, I normally make a deeper face in hard wood than is recommended.
> on the heavy leaners greatest danger is chair or slab, imo boreing cut is best on these and you get better at it the more you do it. maybe practice on some not so heavy leaners remember cutting leaners is not about controlling direction but getting tree on ground safely so do this on trees that you know were they will fall. I never leave much hinge on hard wood, check two chains falling pics out



Thanks TS. If my face is thru the majority of the heartwood, I don't see it chairing or slabbing. Ive prolly dropped 10 heavy leaners in the past 2 years (or what trampy does in a slow morning), and none fell early and pinched, and none chaired. I'm not married to this, and if people have had near death experiences from what I am describing, I'd love to know about it


----------



## treeslayer2003 (May 4, 2013)

HuskStihl said:


> Thanks TS. If my face is thru the majority of the heartwood, I don't see it chairing or slabbing. Ive prolly dropped 10 heavy leaners in the past 2 years (or what trampy does in a slow morning), and none fell early and pinched, and none chaired. I'm not married to this, and if people have had near death experiences from what I am describing, I'd love to know about it



like I said if what your doing been working you prolly got a pretty good handle on it. the reason I think we all talk about the danger of slabing or chair so much is because it is so dangerous, I know I had a couple close calls like that vid in my early years. when you expieriance that you realize how lucky you just were. so better to talk about it than to not and wish we had. we don't want any one to get hurt that's all. but there is no substitute for expieriance and you only get that by doin it :msp_smile: sounds like your working on it.


----------



## treeslayer2003 (May 4, 2013)

also trees are different all over and we are all over the country. so a big conifer out west prolly don't behave the same as a white oak here as a hickory there. we can only give suggestions on our expieriances


----------



## HuskStihl (May 4, 2013)

treeslayer2003 said:


> like I said if what your doing been working you prolly got a pretty good handle on it. the reason I think we all talk about the danger of slabing or chair so much is because it is so dangerous, I know I had a couple close calls like that vid in my early years. when you expieriance that you realize how lucky you just were. so better to talk about it than to not and wish we had. we don't want any one to get hurt that's all. but there is no substitute for expieriance and you only get that by doin it :msp_smile: sounds like your working on it.



Thanks again, TS. I know the way to avoid barber chair is to cut the holding wood in the center. Instead of making my face 30% and boring thru, or behind the face, I just make my face steeper an deeper. Ive done it prolly 10 times without problems, but I'm sure the boys who drop 10 of these a day will have a different opinion


----------



## dooby (May 27, 2013)

*"help"*



bnmc98 said:


> Hi, new to the forum here.
> I was wondering if there are any resources for different cutting techniques to get the trees where you want them. any veterans that want to share wisdom as well.
> 
> I am a timber faller but have not been doing it that long and my knowledge of cuts is limited. I am sick of pushing and wedging if you know what I mean.
> ...



Brian -boy did this get ya chewed up a little bit, or what? there is a great book available called 'professional timber falling' by Douglas Dent. It is available through Bailey's. It is a very useful publication. We are from the same neck of the woods,who are you cutting for? Used to log out of bozo a few yrs. back. Matt's saw shop in Belgrade is a better than avg. shop. And Millers small engine's in bozo ain't bad either. what are ya runnin' for a saw? Are there any Yarder Loggers left down there? Never get tired of wedges cause a tree -jack is alot heavier and a casket weighs even more !!!! good luck and be safe:chainsawguy:


----------



## lfnh (May 28, 2013)

HuskStihl said:


> This thread seems to have lots of experienced fallers and now one noob. Question about the leaning tree owl referenced. For whatever reason, my property has lots of trees like that. Mostly live oaks, but sycamore, cedar and pecan as well. The trees I cut have typically died in the past year and are pretty solid. I don't mill, so don't care about saving stem length. With that said, with a heavy leaning hardwood I usually make a deep 50-60% open face cut placed *about chest height. Quick back cut starting about 4" above the face and sloping down to leave about 2" of holding wood height. * I actually can bore without too much excitement (chain brake activation), but don't do it much. What are the pitfalls/dangers of falling leaners this way?
> Thanks, and again, no need to be gentle. historically only women can make me cry



personally lower face cut is easier to gun and more control over saw rather than backcut level with your throat. gunning a convenrional or humboldt simpler than open face, but i think GOL teaches open face/boring. to each there own.
watch out for that crotch shot on push back. thumbs too. always the thumbs.

what does sloping 4 down to 2" buy ? 
nothing good, imo.


----------



## luckydozenfarm (May 28, 2013)

I scamper up the tree and hook a nice sized cable to it and pull it down with a come-a-long out of reach of the fall. Cut...pull...cut...pull.....and if I have to be extra careful, I hook another safety chain to the exact opposite way I DONT want it to go. I have yet to drop a tree anywhere I didn't want to with this method. If there isn't any trees to anchor on I usually use an additional length of cable and the tractor or mobile home earth anchors. Maybe that's the amateur method I guess..sure is easier than wedges which aren't always foolproof for us semi-pros.


----------



## bustedup (May 28, 2013)

just be careful pulling sticks as they can bust out quick .......rig em high and open the face to give ya self a better chance.


Wedges ain't the answer to everything .....they another tool in the bag 


No matter what ya doing a proper face cut (squared and level) and a proper back cut (level) will get ya thru most situations.


The simpler ya keep it the easier it is. Finesse cuts are great but have inherent dangers. Even fallers will tell ya they don't always work out.


----------



## HuskStihl (May 28, 2013)

lfnh said:


> personally lower face cut is easier to gun and more control over saw rather than backcut level with your throat. gunning a convenrional or humboldt simpler than open face, but i think GOL teaches open face/boring. to each there own.
> watch out for that crotch shot on push back. thumbs too. always the thumbs.
> 
> what does sloping 4 down to 2" buy ?
> nothing good, imo.



With trees that might chair I prefer to be cutting standing up and ready to move. I like to make my back cuts perpendicular to the tree fibers, which in a heavy leaner will be slightly "sloped" relative to horizontal. I do regret replying to this thread, as I may have been drunk, and once again, I am just an old man who grew up with saws, not a pro-faller. This is just what I do. +1 on Douglas Dent's book


----------



## dooby (May 29, 2013)

HuskStihl said:


> With trees that might chair I prefer to be cutting standing up and ready to move. I like to make my back cuts perpendicular to the tree fibers, which in a heavy leaner will be slightly "sloped" relative to horizontal. I do regret replying to this thread, as I may have been drunk, and once again, I am just an old man who grew up with saws, not a pro-faller. This is just what I do. +1 on Douglas Dent's book



If i fallow you right, your slight angle on the back cut will be more than perceived since the tree in ? is a leaner. Therefor the cutting speed or perf. of the chain would be less as you not only increasing the distance you have to cut and now the chain is also ripping fibers witch is slower. I have not learned how to post a drawing on this or any computer let alone a photo ,but try this ; if you are able to fallow my explaining. make a good safe face cut, conventional or Humboldt, which ever you are most comfortable with. now pie off your back cut or triangulate it rather to a center point at the back of tree. now you are ready to start the back cut. by starting at what is now the peak of the triangle of hold wood you have created you do not have the entire diam. of stump to cut through. this is a very good method and if it leans very heavy, bore the guts out through the face cut. and don't be afraid to put your back cut up an inch or two from the face cut(you aren't match cutting for production) you are trying to get a tree on the ground safely.Someone said earlier to try stuff on trees that were dedicated to a lean but safe before actually doing a danger tree(good advice) GOOD LUCK!!! and read this twice or thrice as I have been into some corn squeezins'. Don't have regrets and you ain't no old man,WE are just in the middle:jester:and yes< its a good book. Men like him are endangered. it would be the best $15.00 alot of folks could spend.A new bar of any size is not cheap,or a forbidden dr. bill. piece out and good night


----------



## paccity (May 29, 2013)

what is this slopping back cut talk. do we have to go down this road again.


----------



## HuskStihl (May 29, 2013)

paccity said:


> what is this slopping back cut talk. do we have to go down this road again.



Its totally my fault. I was talking about what I did with heavy leaners before I read DD's book. After putting a big face in I make the back cut perpendicular to the stem. Seems like it is a more direct route thru the holding wood. Of course in SE Texas heavy leaners are mostly live oaks, which don't seem too chair'y.

I really like full synthetic oil at 40:1, I think the reason early 385xp's had bearing failures is the 50:1 mix recommendation.

I think full skip chain is the best, especially on 28" and longer bars

How about those crazy PNW logging terms, who knew lumberjack was derogatory?
:biggrin:


----------



## chainsawdad (May 29, 2013)

*wedge*



bnmc98 said:


> Hi, new to the forum here.
> I was wondering if there are any resources for different cutting techniques to get the trees where you want them. any veterans that want to share wisdom as well.
> 
> I am a timber faller but have not been doing it that long and my knowledge of cuts is limited. I am sick of pushing and wedging if you know what I mean.
> ...



I have a rattle wedge that winds in that may help you but there not cheap from america will let you know how I get on with it not had chance to use it yet but it looks a good piece of kit regards alan


----------



## chainsawdad (May 29, 2013)

chainsawdad said:


> I have a rattle wedge that winds in that may help you but there not cheap from america will let you know how I get on with it not had chance to use it yet but it looks a good piece of kit regards alan


Ps stay safe is the most important thing you will always need the humble wedge


----------



## bustedup (May 29, 2013)

paccity said:


> what is this slopping back cut talk. do we have to go down this road again.



I hope not lol


----------



## bustedup (May 29, 2013)

dooby said:


> If i fallow you right, your slight angle on the back cut will be more than perceived since the tree in ? is a leaner. Therefor the cutting speed or perf. of the chain would be less as you not only increasing the distance you have to cut and now the chain is also ripping fibers witch is slower. I have not learned how to post a drawing on this or any computer let alone a photo ,but try this ; if you are able to fallow my explaining. make a good safe face cut, conventional or Humboldt, which ever you are most comfortable with. now pie off your back cut or triangulate it rather to a center point at the back of tree. now you are ready to start the back cut. by starting at what is now the peak of the triangle of hold wood you have created you do not have the entire diam. of stump to cut through. this is a very good method and if it leans very heavy, bore the guts out through the face cut. and don't be afraid to put your back cut up an inch or two from the face cut(you aren't match cutting for production) you are trying to get a tree on the ground safely.Someone said earlier to try stuff on trees that were dedicated to a lean but safe before actually doing a danger tree(good advice) GOOD LUCK!!! and read this twice or thrice as I have been into some corn squeezins'. Don't have regrets and you ain't no old man,WE are just in the middle:jester:and yes< its a good book. Men like him are endangered. it would be the best $15.00 alot of folks could spend.A new bar of any size is not cheap,or a forbidden dr. bill. piece out and good night




Basically you described a variation of the coos bay (I know only 3 variations but prolly will be more) 

Heavy leaners are very dangerous sticks and yes there are techniques for falling them.....but there ain't a one fits all.


I may have mis read or the like or am just plain stupid (opinions do vary on that lol) but if ya suggesting using a triangle coos bay and boring the face ........imo you'll end up catching the stick.....if ya mean using a coos bay minus a face and boring the front then same outcome imo. I have heard of plunging a non faced coos bay (never done it and don't have the b*lls to try it) 


IMO and would think most fallers would agree heavy leaners are nasty beasts and can make a good day go south real quick.


Stick to basic cuts with leaners ........better still get some one who does know how to fall them safely or can be there and talk ya thru it.......words are easy ......practice is way different.



Oh and don't do sloping cuts period you more than likely borrowing trouble 



sorry if this post offends


----------



## Cedarkerf (May 29, 2013)

opcorn:


----------



## jrcat (May 29, 2013)

The only time the words sloping and cuts comes to my mind is while Im pushing dirt with my dozer . Cutting in slopes for drainage.. Sloping back cuts though... No bueno .......


----------



## dooby (May 30, 2013)

bustedup said:


> Basically you described a variation of the coos bay (I know only 3 variations but prolly will be more)
> 
> Heavy leaners are very dangerous sticks and yes there are techniques for falling them.....but there ain't a one fits all.
> 
> ...


My phonix sukcs!NEXTopcorn:


----------



## bustedup (May 30, 2013)

dooby said:


> My phonix sukcs!NEXTopcorn:



eh?


----------



## jrcat (May 30, 2013)

Hmmm. Interesting...


----------



## dooby (May 30, 2013)

bustedup said:


> eh?



View attachment 297864
This is what i was trying to explain the other night. After making the face cut i will reach in and bore the guts out if i am worried about it barber chairing. Then i will strap the sides. This has worked for me on most leaner situations for many years on almost all western wood. It is not the cure all, but is the most reliable IMO.:msp_tongue: Thanks to my son for teaching a cave man how to put a picture on a post.


----------



## bustedup (May 30, 2013)

dooby said:


> View attachment 297864
> This is what i was trying to explain the other night. After making the face cut i will reach in and bore the guts out if i am worried about it barber chairing. Then i will strap the sides. This has worked for me on most leaner situations for many years on almost all western wood. It is not the cure all, but is the most reliable IMO.:msp_tongue:



Ok .......no worries.......but the pic I seem to remember from somewhere. But don't see any bore cut 


Oh and Mr Dent to whom you referred (who is a legend) passed last year as most will know. I met him once with my Gramps. Air was blue that day lol.


----------



## dooby (May 30, 2013)

bustedup said:


> Ok .......no worries.......but the pic I seem to remember from somewhere. But don't see any bore cut
> 
> 
> Oh and Mr Dent to whom you referred (who is a legend) passed last year as most will know. I met him once with my Gramps. Air was blue that day lol.



Yes he is a legend. Didn't know he was dead. I learned this cut about 25 yrs. ago and was shown the gut-boring trick by another great faller who kept me alive my first yrs. in the brush. I don't bore often, but it does work. Try it, if you like. I didn't get the "air" thing lol


----------



## Gologit (May 30, 2013)

View attachment 297868





Here's a couple of other versions of the Coos Bay.


----------



## bustedup (May 30, 2013)

Gologit said:


> View attachment 297868
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks .....I just don't see how ya can bore the face with them


----------



## bustedup (May 30, 2013)

dooby said:


> Yes he is a legend. Didn't know he was dead. I learned this cut about 25 yrs. ago and was shown the gut-boring trick by another great faller who kept me alive my first yrs. in the brush. I don't bore often, but it does work. Try it, if you like. I didn't get the "air" thing lol



I'm not arguing with ya bro ..........just don't get the boring a coos bay that all


Oh air thing meant .....colorful language lol.....and I mean colorful lol


----------



## dooby (May 30, 2013)

View attachment 297869
This works also. the previous illustration was out of Dent's book . I found it on the web{lost my copy yrs. ago,hope he read it}


----------



## bustedup (May 30, 2013)

dooby said:


> View attachment 297869
> This works also. the previous illustration was out of Dent's book . I found it on the web{lost my copy yrs. ago,hope he read it}



I get the coos bay bro just I don't get boring the face with that cut


----------



## dooby (May 30, 2013)

Gologit said:


> View attachment 297868
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Gologit- sorry, didnt mean to copy you, was tying to learn how to get pics onto the forum again


----------



## bustedup (May 30, 2013)

I think we at crossed terms here a bit (my fault) are you poss meaning gutting the hinge? I could see that maybe in the triangle but not the other


----------



## Gologit (May 30, 2013)

bustedup said:


> I think we at crossed terms here a bit (my fault) are you poss meaning gutting the hinge? I could see that maybe in the triangle but not the other



In the diagrams I posted you don't usually bore. There's really no need for it if you match your cuts just right and have a fast saw when you're backing it up.


----------



## bustedup (May 30, 2013)

Gologit said:


> In the diagrams I posted you don't usually bore. There's really no need for it if you match your cuts just right and have a fast saw when you're backing it up.



Thanks


----------



## HuskStihl (May 30, 2013)

My *extensive* falling experience has taught me the coos bay is used for avoiding chairing a leaner without all that pesky boring:jester::kilt:

The jester is 'cause I don't know #### about ####, and the kilt was for Graeme!


----------



## bustedup (May 30, 2013)

HuskStihl said:


> My *extensive* falling experience has taught me the coos bay is used for avoiding chairing a leaner without all that pesky boring:jester::kilt:
> 
> The jester is 'cause I don't know #### about ####, and the kilt was for Graeme!



you get back to the other thread lol


----------



## bitzer (May 30, 2013)

White oak from this morning. Thanks to the Coos bay cuts I never bore anymore. 






Coos bay back cut. Wide open face keeps the pull at a min. I would guess it took me a minute and a half to put it on the ground. 






A little pull but not too bad considering I think. About the only tree that will split easier is hickory. 






She made 3 10s and a 12. It was inside the bar tip on the stump.







View attachment 297878

View attachment 297879

View attachment 297880

View attachment 297881


----------



## bitzer (May 30, 2013)

The reason I gutted the heart out from the face was to minimize pull. I've done it without, but especially with a white oak leaning this hard it makes the back cut a lot easier and saves the wood. 

Somehow I missed nearly the whole third page of discussion on this thread.... until now.


----------



## dooby (May 30, 2013)

bitzer said:


> White oak from this morning. Thanks to the Coos bay cuts I never bore anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



bitzer-Thanks,those are some nice shots . And you proved to 'bustedup' that boring the guts out works when appropriate!Hope we get to cut together some day. Maybe i could come out for a working vacation this fall after i arrow an elk. not to get off topic but who modded your saw?


----------



## dooby (May 30, 2013)

HuskStihl said:


> My *extensive* falling experience has taught me the coos bay is used for avoiding chairing a leaner without all that pesky boring:jester::kilt:
> 
> The jester is 'cause I don't know #### about ####, and the kilt was for Graeme!



Do you saw in a kilt,too?lol


----------



## treeslayer2003 (May 30, 2013)

bitzer said:


> The reason I gutted the heart out from the face was to minimize pull. I've done it without, but especially with a white oak leaning this hard it makes the back cut a lot easier and saves the wood.
> 
> Somehow I missed nearly the whole third page of discussion on this thread.... until now.



you saved that one out pretty good bitz, hard ta see but it don't look like ya made much of a back cut before she poped. not much sap wood in that tree, if it opens up good i'd say that was well worth the minute and a half.


----------



## roberte (May 31, 2013)

bustedup said:


> you get back to the other thread lol



the kilt smack is funny :msp_razz:


----------



## bustedup (May 31, 2013)

Thought bout what you guys said and I guess it like leaving a back strap after ya bore ......It cool


----------



## HuskStihl (May 31, 2013)

bitzer said:


> The reason I gutted the heart out from the face was to minimize pull. I've done it without, but especially with a white oak leaning this hard it makes the back cut a lot easier and saves the wood.
> 
> Somehow I missed nearly the whole third page of discussion on this thread.... until now.



I don't care what you say Bitz, you are really ####ing good with a saw!


----------



## bitzer (May 31, 2013)

Just to clear up any confusion this is how I did it.

1. Gunned it (had to ream a little to get where I wanted it, started sittin down right away)
2. Humboldt
3. Conventional (Saginaw)
4. Gutted it from the face
5. Bottom of the bar from outside- in standing behind the stem.
6. Backbar from outside- in standing behind till she popped. 

I like to end with the backbar, just cuts faster. 







View attachment 297988


----------



## bitzer (May 31, 2013)

Dooby- I do my own saw work. Let me know if you sling one! Fall is a good time to be out here.

Husky- I'd save I'm about average. Thanks for the compliment though!


----------



## HuskStihl (May 31, 2013)

bitzer said:


> Dooby- I do my own saw work. Let me know if you sling one! Fall is a good time to be out here.
> 
> Husky- I'd save I'm about average. Thanks for the compliment though!



I understand everything about your explanation except for having a Humboldt on the left side of the face and a conventional on the right with the same gunning cut.

Saw an interview with chet atkins once. Asked where he thought he ranked with other guitarists. "Above below average"

Y'all set the curve pretty high!


----------



## treeslayer2003 (May 31, 2013)

bitzer said:


> Just to clear up any confusion this is how I did it.
> 
> 1. Gunned it (had to ream a little to get where I wanted it, started sittin down right away)
> 2. Humboldt
> ...



bitz, I gotta admit that's pretty slick. wouldn't occur ta me ta leave that strap, woulda thought that a mistake. but it worked beautifully. I am impressed sir and that don't happen much. you might make me try leavin a hinge, maybe. hard ta teach a ol dog new tricks, but seeing is believing.


----------



## dooby (Jun 1, 2013)

HuskStihl said:


> I understand everything about your explanation except for having a Humboldt on the left side of the face and a conventional on the right with the same gunning cut.
> 
> Saw an interview with chet atkins once. Asked where he thought he ranked with other guitarists. "Above below average"
> 
> Y'all set the curve pretty high!


HuskStihl- I may be mistaken, but i think because as hard as it was leaning he did both cuts making it a "birds-mouth". If bitzer did do that it was to further eliminate the chance of the face closing up which could cause a barber-chair. And yes I am gonna let him stroke a saw for me. He is better than an avg. pro saw for sure. We could call him the "HumboltMunk"lol-cause he's humble. What about the kilt? lol


----------



## bitzer (Jun 1, 2013)

Yep, super wide open face with both face cuts out. When I numbered them I wasn't really sure where to put them so just off centered them.


----------



## HuskStihl (Jun 1, 2013)

Thanks scooby,
The kilt was for bustedup, who is from london


----------



## HuskStihl (Jun 1, 2013)

Thanks Bitz, I over complicated the situation. I make that face frequently by accident


----------



## bustedup (Jun 1, 2013)

HuskStihl said:


> Thanks scooby,
> The kilt was for bustedup, who is from london



I'll London ya lol


----------



## Gologit (Jun 1, 2013)

HuskStihl said:


> Thanks scooby,
> The kilt was for bustedup, who is from london



London? That explains a lot. :msp_biggrin:


----------



## treeslayer2003 (Jun 1, 2013)

busted up is from scotland


----------



## jrcat (Jun 1, 2013)

Scotland ...london...tijuana..... same thing lol


----------



## bustedup (Jun 1, 2013)

jrcat said:


> Scotland ...london...tijuana..... same thing lol



Altas is in the mail lol


----------



## bustedup (Jun 1, 2013)

Gologit said:


> London? That explains a lot. :msp_biggrin:



He's geographically challenged lol......either that or the broken toe has affected him more than we think lol


----------



## HuskStihl (Jun 1, 2013)

I consider Graeme a friend (and I hope he considers me one too). I was merely enjoying a wee jest at his expense


----------



## bustedup (Jun 1, 2013)

HuskStihl said:


> I consider Graeme a friend (and I hope he considers me one too). I was merely enjoying a wee jest at his expense



Your fine lol


----------

