# Shop Porch Cover addition...



## Ted J (Jan 25, 2011)

Hey all,
Been a while since I last posted in October, when I started my new job, but I've been trying to stay busy with gettin' things done around the property.

I had a buddy drop off a load of about a dozen pine logs, 6 to 12 inch x 10 foot long, he does landscaping, tree trimming and property clearing.

The continuing saga of the ongoing projects.....
I decide to use some of the logs for post to support the Porch Cover I want to add to the front of the shop.

I cut two 6x6 posts for the front and four 6x4 posts for the rear supports up next to the shop. Yea I know, I bought a 24 foot wood I-Beam instead of cutting my own beam... OH Well!!!


After I got the rafters in (I'm short one) I decided to stain the post with some Penefin Red Cedar Stain. OH, excuse my mess......






















I post pics as I update. Sorry for the poor quality, It was getting late in the day when I took them.

Ted


----------



## john taliaferro (Jan 26, 2011)

Shade is gonna be real nice ,soon .


----------



## BobL (Jan 26, 2011)

Pics are fine and porch looks great!


----------



## cowboyvet (Jan 26, 2011)

Looks like it will be nice come summer sun. What is the load rating on the I-beam for 24'?


----------



## SDB777 (Jan 26, 2011)

The purchase of the I-joist is wise! Can you imagine trying to lit the 24' beam up in comparison? And if memory serves me correctly, the I-joist is stronger then the typical pine beam of that lenght....


Looking good. When your finished, time to prop the feet up and have a cold one!



Scott


----------



## Ted J (Jan 26, 2011)

cowboyvet said:


> Looks like it will be nice come summer sun. What is the load rating on the I-beam for 24'?


 
I told them the specs / conditions when I bought it and that determined the height and constructionof the beam. This one is just over 11 inches high.


----------



## Ted J (Jan 26, 2011)

SDB777 said:


> The purchase of the I-joist is wise! Can you imagine trying to lit the 24' beam up in comparison? And if memory serves me correctly, the I-joist is stronger then the typical pine beam of that lenght....
> 
> 
> Looking good. When your finished, time to prop the feet up and have a cold one!
> ...



When I built the cover in the background I made my own 24 foot beam with laminated 2x12s glued and screwed staggered joints, and I lifted that up 12 foot in the air... with the help of the tractor FEL of course! I didn't want to try that again though.


Ted


----------



## betterbuilt (Jan 26, 2011)

Nice work. Are you gonna put your Bandmill under there?


----------



## cowboyvet (Jan 26, 2011)

Ted J said:


> I told them the specs / conditions when I bought it and that determined the height and constructionof the beam. This one is just over 11 inches high.



It is amazing what those I-beams can hold. I'm in the south now but most of my building experience came up in Iowa where snow and wind loads are very high. I've also seen the I-beams but never really worked with them. Did more commercial buildings. Looks like your ready for tin. I'm jelous. Wish I had one on the front of my shop.


----------



## 820wards (Jan 27, 2011)

Ted, shops looking good! The extra shade will be great.

jerry-


----------



## Ted J (Jan 27, 2011)

betterbuilt said:


> Nice work. Are you gonna put your Bandmill under there?


 
No, the previous cover I built was where I was going to put the Wood-Mizer under, until I decided to move it to the concrete slab in front of the cover because I didn't want to move it twice... see this thread.


----------



## Ted J (Feb 7, 2011)

820wards said:


> Ted, shops looking good! The extra shade will be great.
> 
> jerry-


 
The weather was perfect on Sunday to be outside, not too hot at all, around 70 most of the day.

Got a little more done on the shop porch cover, and the evidence the shade provides by the shadow line on the garage door.

Normally at this time while in the shop I would have to pull the door down or be blinded... :msp_blink:

I'm recycling some sheetmetal from a previous lean-to, that was where my mill currently sits on the concrete slab.

I'm liking it so far!!!
Ted


----------



## john taliaferro (Feb 7, 2011)

i like the foam it stops the radiant heat in the summer huh . have you gotten snow outa this storm .john t


----------



## Ted J (Feb 7, 2011)

john taliaferro said:


> i like the foam it stops the radiant heat in the summer huh . have you gotten snow outa this storm .john t


 
Yes John it does stop the heat.
Here's the only snow we got, gone by 5:00PM...






All the joist were iced over so no work up top that day...

Ted


----------



## SilverBox (Feb 9, 2011)

Is that a GPI65 I beam (11 7/8)? It looks way to light to me to handle any kind of a snow load.. Who sized it? The guy at the lumber yard from the Ibeam joist book? If so you probably need one every 24" not just one to hold the whole shebang up.. and why didn't you set the rafter on top of it? why set them on a ledger board thats nailed to the middle of the I beam..


----------



## betterbuilt (Feb 9, 2011)

I looked in my book and couldn't find the simple span chart for that joist. I do know they test them to something like 30,000lbs before they completely fail. I would say he could always add another if he see's a problem or add another post.


----------



## trimmmed (Feb 9, 2011)

I am going to agree with the thought that the "beam" is undersized. I don't think it's a beam at all actually, it looks like an I-joist and the small 1-7/8" one at that. Even if snow load is not a concern and that "beam" would hold the weight of the materials resting on it, there should be ZERO attachments to the web part of it, the rafters should be on top of it. Even in a correctly designed I-joist system, a non I-joist is used as a band to connect the other I-joists. And that is over a bearing beam or wall. Sorry to be a wet blanket but I would send that picture into the manufacturer and ask if what you have there is OK or safe.


----------



## PhilB (Feb 10, 2011)

Ted,

I joist are normally used as Joists. Here's a link to Georgia-Pacifics web site on I joists:http: //www.gp.com/BUILD/literature.aspx There are pdf's on there of sizing and installation instructions. You might look here guidance.


----------



## Ted J (Feb 12, 2011)

SilverBox said:


> Is that a GPI65 I beam (11 7/8)? It looks way to light to me to handle any kind of a snow load.. Who sized it? The guy at the lumber yard from the Ibeam joist book? If so you probably need one every 24" not just one to hold the whole shebang up.. and why didn't you set the rafter on top of it? why set them on a ledger board thats nailed to the middle of the I beam..


 
Yes,the original plan was to set the rafters across the top of the I-beam as they should have. But... after reviewing the height requirement that I wanted under the beam of 7'-6", the pitch of the roof gave me an almost flat roof line, so I adjusted the design.... 

I added a 2x as a ledger board along the inside on top of the lower part of the beam where the rafters sit and added screws from the top plate into the rafters to keep them in place, as the hand sketch below shows.


----------



## Ted J (Feb 12, 2011)

trimmmed said:


> I am going to agree with the thought that the "beam" is undersized. I don't think it's a beam at all actually, it looks like an I-joist and the small 1-7/8" one at that. Even if snow load is not a concern and that "beam" would hold the weight of the materials resting on it, there should be ZERO attachments to the web part of it, the rafters should be on top of it. Even in a correctly designed I-joist system, a non I-joist is used as a band to connect the other I-joists. And that is over a bearing beam or wall. Sorry to be a wet blanket but I would send that picture into the manufacturer and ask if what you have there is OK or safe.



No, your not being a "wet blanket".... I can take critisism. If I couldn't I wouldn't post anything. (I had one guy suggest a 2 1/2 inch x 24 foot piece of pipe to rest the rafters on for the span... and he suggested using 2x4's.

It's up there, it's holding, and I had my fat butt up there screwing the sheet metal down last weekend, and yesterday we had 35mph winds most of the day... came home from work and it's still there, I didn't build a kite :msp_lol:.

I'm not building a dance floor up there by any means, like I did on the other cover I built next to the mill. That was a 16x24 deck up there, almost felt like putting some patio furniture up there.

I figure the ledger board I added was almost like adding a flitch plate on a laminated beam.

When I'm finished I'm going to cut a 1x12 oak board and add it to the front face so it looks like an oak beam from the front, which would stiffen it up a little more.

And, if I'm wrong, it'll sag? Then I'll do like Betterbuilt mentioned, offset another post on one side or maybe both sides. We'll see!

Thanks for the replies, comments and suggestions.

Ted


----------



## SilverBox (Feb 12, 2011)

Ted J said:


> No, your not being a "wet blanket".... I can take critisism. If I couldn't I wouldn't post anything. (I had one guy suggest a 2 1/2 inch x 24 foot piece of pipe to rest the rafters on for the span... and he suggested using 2x4's.
> 
> It's up there, it's holding, and I had my fat butt up there screwing the sheet metal down last weekend, and yesterday we had 35mph winds most of the day... came home from work and it's still there, I didn't build a kite :msp_lol:.
> 
> ...


 
Thats a good idea with the 1x12 added to the front. If it does start to sag you can jack er up and add a post and you should be fine (I can't quite tell from the pics, but it looks like you have a lil sag already, but it could be camera angle). Some knee braces might help too. Your dead load is probably something like 5-8lbs sq ft, that Ibeam if its the one I think it is, is rated for about 60lbs per foot (on a 24' span), which is right about what I'd guess your dead load is on it, you put some snow up there and its not gonna look pretty. If you cut the span down to 12' the rating goes up to 160+ lbs per foot, which gives a nice big margin for live load.

http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=1390

http://www.gp.com/build/DocumentViewer.aspx?repository=BP&elementid=4372 (see page 12)


----------



## Ted J (Feb 12, 2011)

SilverBox said:


> Thats a good idea with the 1x12 added to the front. If it does start to sag you can jack er up and add a post and you should be fine (I can't quite tell from the pics, but it looks like you have a lil sag already, but it could be camera angle). Some knee braces might help too. Your dead load is probably something like 5-8lbs sq ft, that Ibeam if its the one I think it is, is rated for about 60lbs per foot (on a 24' span), which is right about what I'd guess your dead load is on it, *you put some snow up there and its not gonna look pretty*. If you cut the span down to 12' the rating goes up to 160+ lbs per foot, which gives a nice big margin for live load.
> /QUOTE]
> 
> The 1/8" thick snow you see in one of the previous pictures is about the most we've had in 3 years, and we had about 1 1/2" about 4 years before that!
> ...


----------



## TraditionalTool (Feb 12, 2011)

Ted J said:


> SilverBox said:
> 
> 
> > (Besides, haven't you heard, we got global warming ... why do I have to worry 'bout snow?) :msp_rolleyes:
> ...


----------



## Ted J (Feb 13, 2011)

Got the rest of the tin and isulation up and screwed down today. All that's left to do is some side caps and the front board cover. I decided to use some 1x13 x10 footer Cypress boards that I milled that have been stacked and stickered since early October.
I'll stain it with the same Red Cedar Penofin stain I did everything else. I tested the stain on a scrap offcut to see... the wood takes stain very well.






Here'a some additional pics.










I took this pic about 5PM and the shadow line against the garage door shows that it's just what I wanted it to do in addition to keeping the rain to a minimum at the door openings.

Ted


----------



## Ted J (Feb 13, 2011)

One other thing.
I decided to check to see how level or how much sag in the beam. I measured a little less than 3/8" over the entire 24 foot length at the center. So I figure that when I add the front cover board on I'll jack up the center about one inch and screw those boards on, or something like that. I might just take some 1/2" OSB to it first then the front Cypress boards.

Ted


----------



## Ted J (Feb 21, 2011)

Just a few more pics while I was thinking about it...
The truck has about 6 to 7 inches clearance right now, after I add the sloped concrete incline from about the drip line I should have about 3-4 inches of clearance pulling the truck in forward or backward. I don't intend on getting the truck into the shop, but as close to the 4 foot level concrete pad in front of the shop. The previous owners had poured a small concrete incline a couple of feet wide but I want it extended to the beam posts.





A view of the other side of the beam:


----------



## Ted J (Mar 1, 2011)

I decided to use 3 of the 13 inch x 10 foot Cypress boards that I had milled and stickered back in October. Ran them through the planer... just to use the planer, I could have left them rough cut but.... 
Look in the back right of the pic for where the Cypress is stacked... please excuse the mess... work in progress? :monkey:




Added some Penefin stain.




I only had time to put up two of the boards this weekend.




Later,
Ted


----------



## SilverBox (Mar 5, 2011)

NIce. I've used penofin before as well on redwood and cedar decks it sure is pretty when you apply it to nicely planed or sanded wood, it almost glows afterwards .


----------



## deeker (Mar 5, 2011)

Looks great!!


----------

