# How to get the wood out of the woods....??



## rubantin (Feb 19, 2007)

I just started burning wood... I have 3 acres of land.. narrow and deep. About 2 acres of it is wooded... I only want to cut the leaners and dead wood... here is the problem... I have a bad knee and some of it is a really long haul--we don't own a tractor or skidder... most of the wood is 16" or less... I have considered buying my 6 year old son a small cheap quad and putting a wagon on the back... 

Any creative ideas out there? 

oh... and my wife is pregnant..

could buy a mule...lol 

Russ


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## windthrown (Feb 19, 2007)

*ATV trailer works OK*

We have a Polaris Quad ATV and a mini-dump trailer for it that works OK. Not that big of a load of wood though. Less than I can get into a large Kubota 4WD tractor bucket (what I usually use). When we gather firewood here we usually pull it out a little of the way to a skid road with the tractor or ATV, then put it into a PU bed (we have his and her's Toyota and Ford 4WD PU trucks here). You may want to consider bulldozing a skid road into the center or onto the property that can be gtten to with a PU and then haul your firewood to a staging area and load it up there.


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## windthrown (Feb 19, 2007)

*ATV trailer works OK*

We have a Polaris Quad ATV and a mini-dump trailer for it that works OK. Not that big of a load of wood though. Less than I can get into a large Kubota 4WD tractor bucket (what I usually use). When we gather firewood here we usually pull it out a little of the way to a skid road with the tractor or ATV, then put it into a PU bed (we have his and her's Toyota and Ford 4WD PU trucks here). You may want to consider bulldozing a skid road into the center or onto the property that can be gtten to with a PU and then haul your firewood to a staging area and load it up there.


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## 1CallLandscape (Feb 19, 2007)

I use a golf kart with a dump bed on it and a lift kit to get over the brush. atvs work great with a little trailer.


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## Ianab (Feb 19, 2007)

You need a small logging arch... you can pull one by hand, or behind a quad bike, or a pickup.. or even a mule  

Some ideas here...

http://www.futureforestry.com/forestry/products.html

Easy enough to make one if you are handy with a welder.

Cheers

Ian


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## windthrown (Feb 22, 2007)

*Fancy fancy...*



Ianab said:


> You need a small logging arch... you can pull one by hand, or behind a quad bike, or a pickup.. or even a mule
> 
> Some ideas here...
> 
> ...



Fancy stuff. For logs I just drag them out with the Kubota or the QATV.


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## rubantin (Feb 22, 2007)

Was in LOWES last night and they just started carrying a large atv type trailer ?3X6? with atv type tires for $200... really starting to think..

That and my 3 year old has a nice tricycle... the ones with the big pneumatic tires and a little hitch on the back...lol


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## ktm rider (Feb 22, 2007)

rubantin said:


> Was in LOWES last night and they just started carrying a large atv type trailer ?3X6? with atv type tires for $200... really starting to think..




I had one of those. Don't waste your money. The axles continually broke with even just half a load of wood. They are total junk and only capable of carrying grass clippings. 
I have gone through3 trailers in the past 4 years. It seems there is no "free lunch" when it comes to good atv trailers. The two best I have found but haven't bought either one are these, but they are both PRICY !!!

www.nicholstrailers.com
www.mountaingoattrailers.com


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## TooTall999 (Feb 22, 2007)

rubantin said:


> I just started burning wood... I have 3 acres of land.. narrow and deep. About 2 acres of it is wooded... I only want to cut the leaners and dead wood... here is the problem... I have a bad knee and some of it is a really long haul--we don't own a tractor or skidder... most of the wood is 16" or less... I have considered buying my 6 year old son a small cheap quad and putting a wagon on the back...
> 
> Any creative ideas out there?
> 
> ...



Mods...do we need two identical threads on this subject?


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## stonykill (Feb 23, 2007)

rubantin said:


> I just started burning wood... I have 3 acres of land.. narrow and deep. About 2 acres of it is wooded... I only want to cut the leaners and dead wood... here is the problem... I have a bad knee and some of it is a really long haul--we don't own a tractor or skidder... most of the wood is 16" or less... I have considered buying my 6 year old son a small cheap quad and putting a wagon on the back...
> 
> Any creative ideas out there?
> 
> ...



I either use my grand cherokee, or if its an area that I might hurt that too bad, I use an old Jacobsen 12 hp lawn tractor. You would be amazed at the load of wood an old school lawn tractor will haul with chains on it. You could also hire a neighbor kid to carry it out


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## yukiginger (Feb 23, 2007)

*Tow it out!*

Whatever you do I recommend towing log lengths to your processing spot and cutting them there. That would save a lot of effort in my opinion. Do you have a truck? Get a chain or cable and go from there. I don't own a quad and haven't seen them work so I don't know what they are capable of.

MarkG


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## ericjeeper (Feb 23, 2007)

*Honestly*

3 acres of woods hardly requires any sort of arch, or a high dollar quad. Just blaze a trail into the middle of it. and cut.Toss it into either a truck or a trailer. I hate to drag a log any distance at all if I am going to buck it up for firewood. I just get as close to the tree (tops in my case) and start bucking it up then either split it and load or load it then split it back by the woodpile. My wood comes from a couple of small woodlots.one is 20 acres and the other two are about 25 each.
I generally use a tractor and a wagon, or a home made attachment that goes onto the 3 point and it has a hitch so I can tow the splitter right to the wood. Good luck


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## matt9923 (Jan 2, 2009)

i know its an old thread but atv all the way. Tractors grate but you have to foam teh tires mine pop all the time!!
Never had a qtv tire pop even on those dam pine spikes.
My trailer holdsa hell of alot of wood. It was a flat bed heavy duty and i put sides on it and its unbetable with teh 700cc atv.
Matt
Ill get pics


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## cord arrow (Jan 2, 2009)

Since this thread's been given a new lease on life...



> I hate to drag a log any distance at all if I am going to buck it up for firewood.



I agree...don't want dirt & mud driven into the bark if I'm going to buck it...


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## cord arrow (Jan 2, 2009)

Buck it up where it lays...then you can move it with anything...


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## maplemeister (Jan 2, 2009)

Hi Rubantin:

Have you considered looking around for someone who all-ready owns an ATV and small trailer, that also burns wood, to come in and cut for you on shares? Considering you physical limitations and your son's age, it might work out very well if you can find a responsible person to work with you. No equipment to buy and few safety issues to be concerned with, especially with the boy. When He gets big enough he will be able to operate his own 
equipment and take care of you in your senior years. Just a thought.

Maplemeister:


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## J.W Younger (Jan 3, 2009)

Maybe a 2 wheeler sams has em for about 50 bucks


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## logbutcher (Jan 3, 2009)

3 a. is small enough for you to look at *Country Home Products ( DR ). *Thay have a series of self-powered carts that you walk behind with all terrain tires. The carts have a tilt bed.
Not cheap though, but they may be just what you want for narrow, tough terrain. DR is a great company to do business with: there is a SIX MONTH free trial for their stuff. You just pay shipping return after the free trial. Look them up. We have a 2000 DR electric hydraulic wood splitter that's worked its a$$ off replacing a smelly, noisy, unreliable, faster gas splitter.
Before we decided on the ATV/trailer I tried out the DR cart but it was not the thing for larger scale harvesting in our woodlands.


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## bowtechmadman (Jan 3, 2009)

My favorite way to haul it out of the woods. Like others I prefer to buck/split in the woods to avoid as much dirt as possible.


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## matt9923 (May 16, 2009)

I use a grizzly 700. Never have a problem and don't need a road. 
The dual axle trailer follows you so its great in the tight woods. 






I need to repair, a big ass oak bran ck fell on my barn and cart...






Matt


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## Tree Pig (May 16, 2009)

May be a little extra work but I think it would be a great way to get wood out of the brush.

Wood removal idea


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## bowtechmadman (May 16, 2009)

I like that 4 wheel wagon...would take the strain off the rear suspension.


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## DocDryden (May 16, 2009)

I use a 1998 Club Car golf cart & a small trailer


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## mercer_me (May 16, 2009)

When I don't have my tractor or skidder at my house and I find a blow down I use my 2004 Arctic Cat 500 4x4 to haul it out. I don't use a log arch, I just drag the wood on the ground. It works fine. If your woried about mud on the wood wash the wood off with a hose or wait untill it rains.


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## oldchuck (May 17, 2009)

rubantin said:


> I just started burning wood... I have 3 acres of land.. narrow and deep. About 2 acres of it is wooded... I only want to cut the leaners and dead wood... here is the problem... I have a bad knee and some of it is a really long haul--we don't own a tractor or skidder... most of the wood is 16" or less... I have considered buying my 6 year old son a small cheap quad and putting a wagon on the back...
> 
> Any creative ideas out there?
> 
> ...



Definately get a mule. Good pet for your son to grow up with too.

Otherwise try a Harley.


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## willsaw4beer (May 17, 2009)

You have a 6 yr old son, there you go. I was hauling wheelbarrow loads of wood out of the woods when I was that age. Another couple years and you can get him swinging a maul...


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## ghitch75 (May 17, 2009)

here is my wood getter.......


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## matt9923 (May 17, 2009)

ghitch75 said:


> here is my wood getter.......



That's coo!!
Matt


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## SINGLE-JACK (May 29, 2009)

*Notes on hauling firewood*

After 15 years of managing woodlots for firewood, here's what I've learned (the hard way) about cutting & hauling firewood in rough terrain.

*TERRAIN*: Eastern mountains, 15% grade average , many sharp granite rocks, no roads, mostly closely spaced oak (~36" max), medium to heavy undergrowth. So, some of my techniques may not be appropriate for 'friendlier' terrain, i.e. flatland, roads, etc.

*PRIMARY GOAL*: the worst part of getting firewood is bending over and picking it up. Almost all real improvement comes from NOT picking wood up. You can drop, limb and buck a tree without ever touching it. You CAN buy some expensive equipment (trucks, skidders, grapple buckets, yarders, etc.) to do all of the work. But, that's adds a whole other level to inefficiency and environmental impact. I've tried most of them and have opted for the following as a responsible way to manage a woodlot, with a goal to pickup only to split, haul and stack. 

*EQUIPMENT*: 
ATV (Honda foreman 500 with power steering for slow tight turns)
Winch (Warn 2500# to pull down dangerous hang-ups and leaners)
Primary saw (Stihl MS360Pro mod with aggressive chain)
Climbing gear (to limb a standing stem near a structure - fence, house, etc.)
Note: I usually work alone except when climbing - then a groundie or two
Top-side saws (hand/pole + top handle Mac)
Trailer (3x5 dump - high bed - two wheel)
Splitter (4#, more on that later)
Misc (felling wedges, chain, bull rope, felling bar, etc.)

*PROCESS*: Harvest mostly in February when the sap's in the roots.
*FALL* - 70-90 degree face cut (waist high), plunge and/or backcut, wedge as needed
Note: Forest Service recommends trimming stump as close to ground level as possible
*LIMB* - start at crown
Note: Forest Service recommends stacking 'brush' limbs for small critter habitat. I usually chainsaw the stack to within a foot of the ground - good tinder for next season.
*BUCK* - to firewood length where the stem lays
cut 3/4 through, shallow plunge cut but end, roll with felling bar, finish cut
Note: I've stopped skidding (tears up roots) or hauling long logs
*SPLIT* - where the billets lay
Note: I split with a light weight splitting maul - I can work faster and get more energy into the wood (E=mv2). I'm 65 and can keep up with two men on a hydraulic splitter. I'm quieter and the only emissions I've got ... well, never mind. When I'm older I'll get a hydraulic I can tow with the ATV.
*HAUL* - load the firewood ON END in the trailer. I can load more and it never rolls out of the trailer.
Note: This is the maximum load the ATV can haul up a 15% grade without tearing up the ground.
*STACK* - For the first courses of the stack, I'll dump the load. Since the firewood is on end in the trailer it slides out and stays on end, mostly. I then begin stacking while on my knees. From there on, the high bed trailer holds the firewood so I don't have to bend over to transfer it to the stack. 

Well that's the most efficiency I have been able to manage. I can process a lot of wood for a geezer. If this is TMI then don't read any futher ... oops, sorry, all done.


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## Turkeyslayer (May 29, 2009)

Here are a couple of pics of my wood hauler. The wagon will hold 1 face chord when really piled up like in the pic. A 4wd atv will go many places a tractor wont due to its size and weight.


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## svon89 (May 29, 2009)

A friend of mine had wanted to build a log arch for his atv for a long time, so we built one sized to tow behind his machine. It works pretty well, but I wouldn't pull it behind an atv my son could ride (although my son does have, run and drive a cub cadet model 100). Here is a picture. 

I use a tractor for my wood, just back up chain it off and lift the three point and go, but for quite some time I used my atv with a trailer behind it. 

Here is a picture of the log arch we built.


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## matt9923 (May 31, 2009)

Turkeyslayer said:


> Here are a couple of pics of my wood hauler. The wagon will hold 1 face chord when really piled up like in the pic. A 4wd atv will go many places a tractor wont due to its size and weight.



Not necessarily size and weight but i can't keep replacing those tires. 1 stump and their goes $800. The atv can run over anything iv only had 2 punctures and i just put in a slimjim and keep going, now i have slime and i haven't had a flat since. Foaming tires is a great investment but its pricey. 
Matt


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## unclemoustache (Jun 1, 2009)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> After 15 years of managing woodlots for firewood, here's what I've learned (the hard way) about cutting & hauling firewood in rough terrain.
> 
> *TERRAIN*: Eastern mountains, 15% grade average , many sharp granite rocks, no roads, mostly closely spaced oak (~36" max), medium to heavy undergrowth. So, some of my techniques may not be appropriate for 'friendlier' terrain, i.e. flatland, roads, etc.
> 
> ...


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## SINGLE-JACK (Jun 1, 2009)

*Moving wood*

I've given a lot of thought on how to minimize moving firewood - expecially NOT lifting any more than necessary to move it. My trailer is at waist height. I've built a box on the back (waist height) of my ATV to haul wood to the house rack (log ring on wheels) which sits on the porch also at waist height.

Every little bit helps.


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## matt9923 (Jun 2, 2009)

I gave up on splitting oak with an spiting maul/axe w/e. Then when you get over 12" it doesn't even work especially when wet. My hydraulic splitter can work all day and so can i if i don't have to swing the axe all day. 
You can make a splitter split pretty fast for not to much $$. Get an older motor and a used pump clean everything up/ rebuild and you can make those rams move pretty dam fast. I like the super splitter but it would always get stuck in the #### i split. 
Matt


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## Vangellis (Jun 3, 2009)

This works for me.

Simplicity Conquest.












Kevin


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## SINGLE-JACK (Jun 4, 2009)

matt9923 said:


> I gave up on splitting oak with an spiting maul/axe w/e. Then when you get over 12" it doesn't even work especially when wet. My hydraulic splitter can work all day and so can i if i don't have to swing the axe all day.
> You can make a splitter split pretty fast for not to much $$. Get an older motor and a used pump clean everything up/ rebuild and you can make those rams move pretty dam fast. I like the super splitter but it would always get stuck in the #### i split.
> Matt



Good idea, I like the idea of making a splitter. 

I'll probably make one someday. But, for now I still love to split with a maul. Mind you, I don't work all day on anything - get too bored. Fall, limb, buck each tree - then split, haul, stack each tree - it breaks up the day. Curiously, I find oak the most enjoyable to split. On the big billets, I work around the edges to the center. I buck crotches tight so I can split accross both stems at once from the butt side. Rarely, if I can't split one, I chainsaw the billet. I can't split black gum, though - but I don't have much of that.

Still, I'll start planning to build a splitter. Where did you get the cylinder?
I don't want to hyjack this thread. If this question is not appropriate for this thread - send a message - or better yet, start a "build a splitter" thread (that'd be cool).


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## SINGLE-JACK (Jun 12, 2009)

Been reading about pickaroons & hookaroons. 
I like splitting with a maul - don't like picking up billets or splits. A hookaroon seemed perfect for eliminating the bend-over part of picking up. 

Thought I'd make one. But, didn't want to carry around another tool. So, I put a "hook" on the maul (never used splitting wedges anyway). Tapped a 1/2-13 hole in poll, put in a grade 8 bolt & (lock)nut, ground the head to form the hook 

Works great - Hook the billet onto the block, split with the maul side, hook the splits to the stack. Never bent over, never touched the wood.


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## songofthewood (Jun 13, 2009)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> After 15 years of managing woodlots for firewood, here's what I've learned (the hard way) about cutting & hauling firewood in rough terrain.
> 
> *TERRAIN*: Eastern mountains, 15% grade average , many sharp granite rocks, no roads, mostly closely spaced oak (~36" max), medium to heavy undergrowth. So, some of my techniques may not be appropriate for 'friendlier' terrain, i.e. flatland, roads, etc.
> 
> ...



:agree2: The Split


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## IllinoisJim (Jun 16, 2009)

*mini skyline*

My wooded areas are very steep. I have a number of trees up to about 20" diameter, mostly smaller, on the hillsides or in the bottoms. Would be very difficult to do anything but winch them up. All access is along the higher spots. But that would create ruts and erosion and erosion is already a problem on the steep hillsides. So I was planning on doing something like this:

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/deaton0601.html

I would cut them to whatever length was about 200 pounds and pull them up the skyline. Figured the stress on the line and with some sag 1/4" cable will safely handle that load. Have an old rototiller for the winch.

I think I can do this for a few hundred $ by scrounging some of the material. Only drawback is needing someone at both ends of the line. Runs would be up to 250 ft. And it will be slow... Might be worth going to a bit larger cable to handle more load. Would take a bit more effort to set up though.

I cut about 5 cords a year for myself.

Comments?


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## matt9923 (Jun 16, 2009)

IllinoisJim said:


> My wooded areas are very steep. I have a number of trees up to about 20" diameter, mostly smaller, on the hillsides or in the bottoms. Would be very difficult to do anything but winch them up. All access is along the higher spots. But that would create ruts and erosion and erosion is already a problem on the steep hillsides. So I was planning on doing something like this:
> 
> http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/deaton0601.html
> 
> ...



seems like a lot of work. winching them wont give much more rut then that contraption. Mount the winch 8ft off the ground on a big enough tree that way it wont be pulling towards the ground? Iv done it it holds the ends from digging in. 
Matt


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## SINGLE-JACK (Jun 16, 2009)

*Interesting problem*



IllinoisJim said:


> My wooded areas are *(1)very steep*. I have a number of *(2)trees up to about 20" diameter*, mostly smaller, on the hillsides or in the bottoms. Would be very difficult to do anything but winch them up. All access is along the higher spots. But that would create ruts and erosion and erosion is already a problem on the steep hillsides. So I was planning on doing something like this:
> 
> http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/deaton0601.html
> 
> ...




*(1)How steep? (%)
(2)What species? (oak, pine, poplar, etc. ... all of the above)
(3)250' run, How wide?*


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## IllinoisJim (Jun 16, 2009)

*Getting the wood out*

How steep?
The less steep parts I can drive the tractor to so those aren't a problem. But there is quite a bit that is too steep - I would say 40 to 60 degrees and in places up to 90 degrees (vertical cliffs of up to about 80 feet in places). There is some land that is fairly flat on the other side a small stream but no access due to steep terain. I could run a cable across and winch them across easily if they are suspended, which is the idea.

Species?
Mixed: Oak, black walnut, hickory, mulberry, maple... Mostly smaller stuff maybe up to 12" dia and only a couple larger. Just taking out dead or fallen stuff.

How Wide? 
1/4"  I was talking about the cable run. With a cable I wouldn't have to clear much of a path for the wood as it would be suspended or mostly suspended. The property is about 12 acres. I figure I can get to quite a bit of it directly (can drive the tractor) or with a 250' cable run into the canyons from different spots that I can get the tractor to. Portability of the cable system seems like a plus. A winch setup with that sort of length for the whole logs is not in the budget. Not sure if I answered your question.

Part of the plan is to clean up the woods so there is a bit more to it than just getting wood...


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## SINGLE-JACK (Jun 17, 2009)

IllinoisJim said:


> How steep?
> The less steep parts I can drive the tractor to so those aren't a problem. But there is quite a bit that is too steep - I would say *40 to 60 degrees and in places up to 90 degrees* (vertical cliffs of up to about 80 feet in places). There is some land that is fairly flat on the other side a small stream but no access due to steep terain. I could run a cable across and winch them across easily if they are suspended, which is the idea.
> 
> Species?
> ...



*40 to 60 degrees and in places up to 90 degrees*
Wow! With terrain like that I'd have to build a small yarder, too. Mostly, just for the fun of building one. But, I think you're right, it's probably necessary. 

Just one concern, the 1/4" cable seems a little light to me. I used text book values. A 10:1 safety factor seems reasonable for a dynamic load like yours. Then, a 200# load in the center of a 250' run will sag the cable approx. 40' at the WLL. With a 5:1 safety factor the sag will be approx. 20'. Also, a 200# load means A LOT of turns. So, you might want to consider a larger cable.

*Still, it's a great project - hope you post pix of your progress!*

*How Wide?* Actually, I was asking how wide an area the yarder had to service. Just wondering if you had to move the "hook" end to different anchor points.


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## IllinoisJim (Jun 17, 2009)

*skyline*



SINGLE-JACK said:


> Just one concern, the 1/4" cable seems a little light to me. I used text book values. A 10:1 safety factor seems reasonable for a dynamic load like yours. Then, a 200# load in the center of a 250' run will sag the cable approx. 40' at the WLL. With a 5:1 safety factor the sag will be approx. 20'. Also, a 200# load means A LOT of turns. So, you might want to consider a larger cable.



All valid points. The article I posted a link to said they used 1/8" which seems hard to believe - maybe that was the winch line not the main line. Since I will have one end at the top of the steep parts and the land flattens out at the bottom I can live with lots of sag which helps as you point out. To help decrease jerking and dynamic loads I might put a stiff spring in the hook end of the winch line.

No doubt about it there will be a LOTS of turns. That would be the main reason for increasing the cable size and load capacity. 3/8 cable has twice the load rating of 1/4" and 250 ft weighs 60 lbs - a little harder to lug around than 1/4" but not that bad. I could increase my loads to 300 lbs and increase my safety factor. 3/8 cable has a wll of 2880 lbs (at 5:1 factor). At those loads I would think I would need pretty stout brace lines on the anchor trees since the anchor points will be 10 - 15 ft up - lots of torque on the tree roots.




SINGLE-JACK said:


> *How Wide?* Actually, I was asking how wide an area the yarder had to service. Just wondering if you had to move the "hook" end to different anchor points.



There is about 1000' along the edge of the canyon but most of the trees are in a few areas. I will probably end up changing the upper point almost as much as the lower. I have about 5 upper points and maybe 6 or 7 lower anchor points.


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## gink595 (Jun 20, 2009)

This is how we got the logs out of the woods this morning, Beligan style! It is a new team so they didn't get pushed very hard, break them in slowly. It is a friend of mines and his fathers horses. It was an impressive day alot of BIG teams moving some big oaks. I can't wait to do it again.


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## smokinj (Jun 20, 2009)

Thats AWESOME!


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## kodiakattack (Jun 20, 2009)

Ya that is the best way right there HORSE it out!!Lots of power there and no break downs!! some times the best way is keeping it simple!!


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## deeker (Jun 21, 2009)

We use a Yamaha 660 Grizzly and LogRite's ATV and JR. Arches.











The destination for the bigger logs.


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## matt9923 (Jun 21, 2009)

Grizzly are awesome quads. I have a o8 700, don't know how id do without it. 
Matt


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## dolmen (Jun 21, 2009)

gink595 ... great pics, I'd love to see more. Its something I'd like to learn to do, is work with a team of horses like that, especially in the woods.

Cheers


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## Straightgrain (Jun 21, 2009)

*Pirvate land wood skidding*

Private land and access to a truck makes all the difference in the world. If your land is generally free of pilage, cut and split the wood on the spot, haul it out in the fall by truck. 
Blaze a trail (as mentioned earlier) down the middle and load out there.
I made my own arch for less than $100.00. Works great, I skid 24" logs with my 350 Rancher. Sometimes I have to hook my truck to skid the > 16' logs. I only skid them in the direction of the stove and to a level pad for cutting and splitting. 
Anyone caught in Oregon wood-piles is subject to all the penalties of timber tresspass. Three times the stump value, plus all legal fees etc. 
The only problem I have is the deer and my cows scratch their backsides and knock the wood piles over. 
They go nuts after the alder bark too.
I love my arch/atv combo, couldn't make due without them.


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## RAF (Jun 22, 2009)

Straightgrain said:


> Private land and access to a truck makes all the difference in the world. If your land is generally free of pilage, cut and split the wood on the spot, haul it out in the fall by truck.
> Blaze a trail (as mentioned earlier) down the middle and load out there.
> I made my own arch for less than $100.00. Works great, I skid 24" logs with my 350 Rancher. Sometimes I have to hook my truck to skid the > 16' logs. I only skid them in the direction of the stove and to a level pad for cutting and splitting.
> Anyone caught in Oregon wood-piles is subject to all the penalties of timber tresspass. Three times the stump value, plus all legal fees etc.
> ...




Do you have any pictures of this arch you made. I have been gathering info and pics to start making one. I like seeing other ideas.


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## stihlman390 (Jun 22, 2009)

i use a 2008 for f 350 diesel dually 4x4 of course thats for transporting on a 35 foot gooseneck with tandem axles and its a dually trailer. we also use a 2001 ford f 250 v10 2x4 and it pulls a 35 foot gooseneck. tandem axles but single not duals. and we have a john deere 4600 with a loader. and a timberwolf tw-3HD splitter, but all that is after working my butt off and saving my money. i still make a lot and am still saving oh and 3 honda rancher 350 electric shift atv's 4x4 and stihl saws also known as the best in my book


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## stihlman390 (Jun 22, 2009)

Straightgrain said:


> Private land and access to a truck makes all the difference in the world. If your land is generally free of pilage, cut and split the wood on the spot, haul it out in the fall by truck.
> Blaze a trail (as mentioned earlier) down the middle and load out there.
> I made my own arch for less than $100.00. Works great, I skid 24" logs with my 350 Rancher. Sometimes I have to hook my truck to skid the > 16' logs. I only skid them in the direction of the stove and to a level pad for cutting and splitting.
> Anyone caught in Oregon wood-piles is subject to all the penalties of timber tresspass. Three times the stump value, plus all legal fees etc.
> ...



350 rancher very reliable atv


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## archertwo (Oct 31, 2009)

This is the second logging arch I've built. The first one I used a 2200lb hand winch on but it took forever to get the 25 feet of cable back in if it had to all be used. Arms get tired after a while.
This one I bulit a bit too "heavy duty" using mobile home wheels and all but it will get the job done.
It has a 3000lb electric winch on it for power and I've wired a second "truck" battery to the original ATV battery for an added boost on those hard to pull logs. 
I sometimes have to use the ATV winch to lock myself down so the arch winch pulls the heavier logs out. It will handle 24" hardwood logs with ease and with having the end up it keeps the mud and debris off the logs too.


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## thenorth (Nov 4, 2009)

this is one method I use;





john


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## thenorth (Nov 4, 2009)

another method;





ATV log arch, home made...

John


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## loadthestove (Nov 14, 2009)

Dont have any pics handy,but I use my Cub Cadet big country(Cubs version of a Gator) and haul it out.I cut the tree down and then cut my wood to length ans haul it out to my splitter.
Takes about three trips to make a rick.luckily I have plenty of wooded area next to my home so I generally cut the wood and haul it directly to my splitter located at wood shed.
Doing it this way sure cuts down on amount of saw dust around wood shed.


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## DocDryden (Nov 15, 2009)

Here is how I get the wood out of the woods.



OLD WAY











NOW


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## thenorth (Nov 15, 2009)

ATV load







John


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## thenorth (Nov 15, 2009)

heading down to the sawmill with this ...






John


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## WoodchuckPaddy (Nov 17, 2009)

cord arrow said:


> Buck it up where it lays...then you can move it with anything...



Very good advice...


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## STANG302 (Nov 17, 2009)

Dido, cut it up to the length you need. If you have a rider lawn mower just get a cart for it and off you go!


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## Greenthorn (Nov 17, 2009)




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## elfinwood (Nov 17, 2009)

i use a shetland pony for small stuff and a clydesdale horse for the big stuff, they just love work, makes fire wooding more fun.


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## Crow Horse (Nov 18, 2009)

I use my old Wheel Horse with AG's, chains and liquid ballast in the tires front & rear. Hooked up to a small garden cart, it allows me to thread my way deep into the woods to my cut area. The down side is the small payload capacity. Pic was taken in the summer with the deck on it. No deck for hauling wood....


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## atvdave (Nov 18, 2009)

rubantin said:


> could buy a mule...lol
> 
> Russ



Thats what I use.... a Kawasaki Mule ... works great..


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## Wife'nHubby (Nov 18, 2009)

elfinwood said:


> i use a shetland pony for small stuff and a clydesdale horse for the big stuff, they just love work, makes fire wooding more fun.




I would love to see pictures of your "big and little" haulers doing the work!

shari


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## milkie62 (Nov 22, 2009)

*Best trailerfor the money !!!!!!!!*

I am not a Harbor Junk (Frieght) fan except for certain things like tarps and such.But I bought their small trailer 40 x40 I think with 12" wheels for $139.00 on sale.I had to make my own pt wood deck and sides but for what it is you cannot build it for what I paid for it.We use it to haul wood out where we cannot get with the tractor and we used it on my son's eagle scout project hauling about 35 ton of crusher run with it.Only issue was we lost a bearing cap on it so my son wrapped it with duct tape.I would not hesitate buying another one in a heartbeat.


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## split4fun (Nov 22, 2009)

*two wheeled wheelbarrow*

I put two more wheels on my two wheeled wheelbarrow and made a cart out of it. Hooked a long rope on it and pulled wood out of a steep hill with my garden tractor. It looked pretty funny but it worked great. I used two wheels from a broken banding cart from work and a 5/8 round steel rod.


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## SINGLE-JACK (Nov 22, 2009)

*Haulin' wood*


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## matt9923 (Nov 22, 2009)

I have one of them toy trailers, broke the axle and bent the rim to nothing hauling to many rocks. 

My trailer now hold's a good 1/2 cord if i need it to.


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## SINGLE-JACK (Nov 22, 2009)

matt9923 said:


> I have one of them toy trailers, *broke the axle and bent the rim to nothing hauling to many rocks*.
> 
> My trailer now hold's a good 1/2 cord if i need it to.



Yup, you can overload anything ... you gotta be careful. You can even overload the trail. My "toy" has been haulin' for 10 years without any trouble up rocky 25% grades - even in the snow. Anything bigger just tears up the ground pulling it. 

Appreciate the 'heads-up' but I gotta use what works.


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## matt9923 (Nov 22, 2009)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> Yup, you can overload anything ... you gotta be careful. You can even overload the trail. My "toy" has been haulin' for 10 years without any trouble up rocky 25% grades - even in the snow. Anything bigger just tears up the ground pulling it.
> 
> Appreciate the 'heads-up' but I gotta use what works.



ATV's are a must in the woods but they are to light for a lot of work, i got a 700 and it does good, very happy with it. 
For the power it has it could pull 5x more but it doesn't have the weight, good in wet swamp tho.


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## matt9923 (Nov 22, 2009)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> Yup, you can overload anything ... you gotta be careful. You can even overload the trail. My "toy" has been haulin' for 10 years without any trouble up rocky 25% grades - even in the snow. Anything bigger just tears up the ground pulling it.
> 
> Appreciate the 'heads-up' but I gotta use what works.



It is a JD and want cheep but I have no patience for skimpy loads probably had a ton in it and smush, kept on using it tho, pretty much shot now....


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## svon89 (Nov 23, 2009)

I can't agree more about having an atv, although the light weight does hamper the machines. Here is a picture of a log arch that a friend and I built. He has used it behind the atv pictured, a polaris 350, and it works well. Chains on the machine's back tires really help it. 
Stephen


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## svon89 (Nov 23, 2009)

Oh yes, forgot to add a picture of the atv with my cart. I had an old boat trailer given to me that I cut down. It can hold a good load and follows behind the atv nicely. Only thing I have yet to add is a set of bars in front of the tires to deflect it around the trees. It was a nice feature on the log arch above, and I plan to do it here as well, just never got to it. I also never got to putting on a really nice set of side boards. 
Stephen


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## slofr8 (Nov 27, 2009)

I did it with an atv for a few years. Worked good.





Last year I spoiled myself and up graded. I bought a winch for the tractor I already had. It's a 30hp Kubota, Fransgard winch.








My land is quite steep so a log arch would be out of the question. The winch allows me to stay on the trail (mostly) and bring the wood to me. I've got about 150' of cable on it. 
I don't start cutting my fire wood until fall. I'll go in and cut for a couple of hours one day and wait for a day that's dry or frozen to yard it out, and go block and split another day. Mostly do what I can when I have a few hours to kill.
Later. Dan.


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