# cutting logs that are larger than your bar



## woodlumn (Sep 1, 2009)

hey folks,

I hooked up with a local tree service who may dump loads of wood in my yard from time to time. some of the pieces I've seen when I pick up stuff from their shop are HUGE.

I have a 455 Rancher with a 20" bar and am not an expert cutter. most of my experience with the saw is cutting up logs 18" diameter and smaller.

What is the technique and what are the tools for dealing with really large pieces of trunk that may be in excess of 24"?

Thank you!


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## beerman6 (Sep 1, 2009)

Cut from both sides then roll it over.


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## woodlumn (Sep 1, 2009)

> Cut from both sides then roll it over.



what can I expect to happen when the tip of the bar begins to submerge into the log? sorry if it's a stupid question, just makes sense for me to think about these things ahead of time


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## stihl sawing (Sep 1, 2009)

woodlumn said:


> what can I expect to happen when the tip of the bar begins to submerge into the log? sorry if it's a stupid question, just makes sense for me to think about these things ahead of time


Nothing, Just saw down close to the ground and then cut from the other side. If you go all the way through use a plastic wedge in the top kerf to keep from pinching you're saw. And no question is a stupid one.


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## KMB (Sep 1, 2009)

stihl sawing said:


> Nothing, Just saw down close to the ground and then cut from the other side. If you go all the way through use a plastic wedge in the top kerf to keep from pinching you're saw.



What he said.

Kevin


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## woodlumn (Sep 1, 2009)

excellent. thanks all!


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## stihl sawing (Sep 1, 2009)

When you get close to the bottom just be carefull not to hit the dirt as you will dull the chain. As was mentioned just get close and roll it over with a canthook.


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## BuddhaKat (Sep 1, 2009)

Experienced cutters are probably using unfamiliar words to describe what they're suggesting. I'll try to clear it up.

To answer your questions; You have a couple of options. Of course, cutting from both sides is a common solution to this very common problem. The _kerf_, is the slot created by cutting. When you get close to the bottom the wood can sometimes shift and start closing the kerf, which pinches your bar, creating a lot of cussing that you never knew you had in you. A plastic wedge solves this problem. You can get them from Bailey's. They're cheap and WELL worth the expense. I must use a wedge a hundred times a day when I'm cutting. Get the plastic one because you don't ruin your chain when you hit them with the chain. Kiss your chain goodbye if you hit a metal wedge or your axe blade. You can get to Bailey's by clicking their icon above.

If the logs are really big you might need a cant hook or a Peavey to roll them over. I prefer the Peavey myself. If you're going to cut a lot of wood either of those would be a good investment, but they can be a little pricey.

Here's the most important part. You asked about burying the bar. There's no problem with that, as long as your bar is getting plenty of oil. The 455 can handle a 20" bar all day long without a problem. The thing you have to be careful about is kickback. To say that kickback is dangerous is an understatement. People have been killed or horribly maimed by kickbacks. The best thing to do is avoid using the top quadrant of the tip of the bar, (9:00 to 12:00 or 12:00 to 3:00, depending on what side of the bar you're looking at), to cut with. If the chain catches there it throws the saw up, usually into your face or your leg. If you have no choice other than using the top part of the tip, be sure to hold on tightly and be ready for a kickback. You won't stop it from happening, but hopefully you'll catch it before it cuts your jugular vein.

Something else you might consider is Personal Protective Equipment. Always wear safety glasses when cutting. The other thing to look at is a set of chaps. They'll stop a chain before it cuts through your leg. Go to www.labonville.com and take a look at what they're got. I think they have the best chaps. All the other vendors carry chaps as well. Even if you don't get the best, something is better than nothing.


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## stihl sawing (Sep 1, 2009)

BuddhaKat said:


> Experienced cutters are probably using unfamiliar words to describe what they're suggesting. I'll try to clear it up.
> 
> To answer your questions; You have a couple of options. Of course, cutting from both sides is a common solution to this very common problem. The _kerf_, is the slot created by cutting. When you get close to the bottom the wood can sometimes shift and start closing the kerf, which pinches your bar, creating a lot of cussing that you never knew you had in you. A plastic wedge solves this problem. You can get them from Bailey's. They're cheap and WELL worth the expense. I must use a wedge a hundred times a day when I'm cutting. Get the plastic one because you don't ruin your chain when you hit them with the chain. Kiss your chain goodbye if you hit a metal wedge or your axe blade. You can get to Bailey's by clicking their icon above.
> 
> ...


Very good. I didn't think about him being new and not knowing the terms. Would rep you if i could.


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## 7sleeper (Sep 1, 2009)

The only thing I would add to what Buddha wrote is don't lean to much on the saw! Let the saw do the cutting.

7


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## ray benson (Sep 1, 2009)

Read your saw owners manual for some safe bucking practices. Here is a little more info.


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## MJR (Sep 1, 2009)

Also, if you place your saw on a flat surface you will see the bar point up a little. This was designed to keep your bar from hitting the ground. Cut down till the bottom of your saw is sitting flash with the ground and your chain should never hit dirt.


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## woodlumn (Sep 1, 2009)

BuddhaKat said:


> The best thing to do is avoid using the top quadrant of the tip of the bar, (9:00 to 12:00 or 12:00 to 3:00, depending on what side of the bar you're looking at), to cut with. If the chain catches there it throws the saw up, usually into your face or your leg.



Thank you, BuddhaKat - this is exactly what I was concerned about.

How can I be sure (or at least mostly sure) that I'm not cutting with the top outer quadrant? Would this have something to do with keeping the bar angled up slightly and not pitching it downward?

I do where goggles, ear protection, gloves, and steel-toe boots when I cut. I will look into chaps. I plan on getting better head/face gear as well, definitely before attempting the type of cutting that we're discussing here.

Thanks guys.


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## Beefie (Sep 1, 2009)

stihl sawing said:


> Very good. I didn't think about him being new and not knowing the terms. Would rep you if i could.



I got him taken care of REP sent out. Very good info you gave BuddaKat.

Beefie


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## BuddhaKat (Sep 1, 2009)

woodlumn said:


> Thank you, BuddhaKat - this is exactly what I was concerned about.
> 
> How can I be sure (or at least mostly sure) that I'm not cutting with the top outer quadrant? Would this have something to do with keeping the bar angled up slightly and not pitching it downward?
> 
> ...


The only way to be sure is to watch what you're doing, especially if you're going to stick the tip of the bar where you can't see it. Here's a good resource for people just getting started:

http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/ageng/safety/ae1025w.htm

Oh, here's my unbreakable rule for me and anyone that works for me: No starting a saw without chaps on. PERIOD!! The only exception is if there's no chain on the powerhead. Most chainsaw cuts are to the legs.


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## BigPITA (Sep 1, 2009)

BuddhaKat said:


> Experienced cutters are probably using unfamiliar words to describe what they're suggesting. I'll try to clear it up.
> 
> To answer your questions; You have a couple of options. Of course, cutting from both sides is a common solution to this very common problem. The _kerf_, is the slot created by cutting. When you get close to the bottom the wood can sometimes shift and start closing the kerf, which pinches your bar, creating a lot of cussing that you never knew you had in you. A plastic wedge solves this problem. You can get them from Bailey's. They're cheap and WELL worth the expense. I must use a wedge a hundred times a day when I'm cutting. Get the plastic one because you don't ruin your chain when you hit them with the chain. Kiss your chain goodbye if you hit a metal wedge or your axe blade. You can get to Bailey's by clicking their icon above.
> 
> ...




Great info BuddhaKat! I had my first experience this past weekend with a tree pinching my saw and not being able to get it out (I saw it happening and couldn't get it out fast enough). :censored: Still a major noob here and have only one saw. To make matters worse, I don't have any wedges. So, have to call my wife to bring me the ax so that I can chop down the tree... left-hand no less! :bang: After some time, I got enough pressure released and was able to get the saw out and finish up with it. Having said all that... wedges are on my list to get ASAP and I'll start being more prepared before heading out to cut.

Not to highjack the thread... it's funny to have just read the thread, as I just got off the phone with Bailey's (after getting their catalog this weekend ) and some of what BuddhaKat mentions is exactly what I was told. I actually called to talk about a replacement chain, since I was previously getting them at a place not to be mentioned. I inquired about the chains they sell not having anit-kickback and what I should expect, considering all the chains I got at the other place had the feature. Bailey's guy mentioned that with the anti-kickback feature, if you're burying the bar into the wood the cut typically ends up going on an angle instead of straight. I had to laugh as I was experiencing this crap this past weekend trying to re-size some 22"+ rounds. Makes it a royal PITA to try trimming off 5-6" when the darn thing keeps cutting at an angle! (why did I have to trim... b/c it was free wood from someone who already cut the tree into sections.... free wood and the dude cut it... no complaints here! Especially since a number didn't need any trimming.)

Anyway, where was I... oh... the topic was burying the bar.... talking from experience... if you're going to do this, you do not want to have a chain with the anti-kickback feature as it will royally screw up your cuts. Having never personally used a chain without such a feature, Bailey's indicated that there would be a difference, mostly when doing certain cuts (such as from underneath), and to make sure I was wearing the proper safety/protection gear (which I need to add to)... which is exactly what BuddhaKat said in his post as well.

So, to sum up... definitely look into getting some wedges... sucks to have your saw pinched (especially when you have only 1!), make sure you have your protection gear, and if you're burying the bar... make sure you have the 'proper' type of chain.


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## jasoutside (Sep 1, 2009)

BuddhaKat said:


> The only way to be sure is to watch what you're doing, especially if you're going to stick the tip of the bar where you can't see it. Here's a good resource for people just getting started:
> 
> http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/ageng/safety/ae1025w.htm
> 
> Oh, here's my unbreakable rule for me and anyone that works for me: No starting a saw without chaps on. PERIOD!! The only exception is if there's no chain on the powerhead. Most chainsaw cuts are to the legs.



No chaps, no saw, your rules are awesome!!! I love that rule! I have no idea how this whole rep thing works so here is a high five for ya! Or maybe a little clapping guy

Cheers!


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## BuddhaKat (Sep 1, 2009)

jasoutside said:


> No chaps, no saw, your rules are awesome!!! I love that rule! I have no idea how this whole rep thing works so here is a high five for ya! Or maybe a little clapping guy
> 
> Cheers!


It's easy to Rep BuddhaKat. From within the post you want to base the Rep on, just click the button on the bottom left.


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## jasoutside (Sep 1, 2009)

BuddhaKat said:


> It's easy to Rep BuddhaKat. From within the post you want to base the Rep on, just click the button on the bottom left.



Cool, first rep handed out is yours man. Cheers!


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## danrclem (Sep 1, 2009)

If the log being bucked is not a whole lot bigger than the bar you can cut it from one side. You can raise the back end of your chain saw up and the bar is pointing downhill and it is actually cutting the other side. Just be careful and don't stretch where any part of your body will be over the bar.

Wood is fun and saves money but the main thing is to be careful and not get hurt.


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## Turkeyslayer (Sep 1, 2009)

For any tree that is just a bit longer than the bar, I will start the cut with the powerhead of the saw ontop of the log. Swinging the bar down towards the ground being mindful of the tip and ground until I have cut enough of the dia. to be able to pull the saw back to horizontal and drop it straight through. Most of the time you can tell when getting close to cutting though by the colour of the chips (they will be darker when finishing the cut through the bark).


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## Straightgrain (Sep 1, 2009)

Yep


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## turnkey4099 (Sep 2, 2009)

Kickback while the bar is buried is _usually_ not a problem as long as the cut is proceeding. 

Keep your chain sharp. 

If the saw won't pull itself through the cut, it needs to be sharped. 

Cutting crooked, even slightly - sharp the chain. Nothing will irritate you more than to have to go aroundthe other side and then your cut doesn't match up due to a 'curve'.

Start with saw level on top of log. Keep power head in that location and rotate tip of bar down. Cut until tip is near the ground. Now begin pulling power head down and towards you (saw should not need any force if the chain is sharp) - sorta rotating it around the tip of the bar. If the log is big enough, I will rotat the bar tip down until the saw is almost verticl and continue the cut in that position until I am sure that the bar will reach all the way to meet that cut when it it horizontal again. 

Most logs can be cut from one side using that technique. Some, if you are lucky enough to get into the 'big stuff', will need to be worked from both sides to finish the cut.

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Sep 2, 2009)

Kickback while the bar is buried is _usually_ not a problem as long as the cut is proceeding. 

Keep your chain sharp. 

If the saw won't pull itself through the cut, it needs to be sharped. 

Cutting crooked, even slightly - sharp the chain. Nothing will irritate you more than to have to go aroundthe other side and then your cut doesn't match up due to a 'curve'.

Start with saw level on top of log. Keep power head in that location and rotate tip of bar down. Cut until tip is near the ground. Now begin pulling power head down and towards you (saw should not need any force if the chain is sharp) - sorta rotating it around the tip of the bar. If the log is big enough, I will rotat the bar tip down until the saw is almost verticl and continue the cut in that position until I am sure that the bar will reach all the way to meet that cut when it it horizontal again. 

Most logs can be cut from one side using that technique. Some, if you are lucky enough to get into the 'big stuff', will need to be worked from both sides to finish the cut.

Harry K


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## beerman6 (Sep 2, 2009)

:monkey: You can say THAT again...:greenchainsaw:


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## turnkey4099 (Sep 2, 2009)

beerman6 said:


> :monkey: You can say THAT again...:greenchainsaw:



Yah. Usually I get a warning when I double post. Must have been a hang up somewhere as I didn't get the notice and no indication that the first one went.

Harry K


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## wkpoor (Sep 2, 2009)

I'm going to aproach this from a completely different angle.
First off you don't need to buy wedges. If you have a band saw make big long ones out of oak scraps. They will take alot of punishment, won't hurt your saw and give alot more leverage to pry aprt big rounds.
Next since these are big ones, your first cut will be from the end (noodling). Depending on size you might just quarter it or if it is a bigger round in thirds or for really big ones noodle into forths. Then make your cross cut about 16-20 inches in from the end. Go down to within and inch of the ground. When the bar is below the top insert the big oak wedge. After you complete the cut use the wedge to drive aprt the round. roll 90 degress and noodle the same as the first ones. When your done you'll have 4,9,or 16 easy to pick up pieces. Continue to the end of the log. Easy as 1,2,3.
Oh I almost forgot, this goes fast and easy with a Solo 681 and 21" bar hehehe!


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## MNGuns (Sep 2, 2009)

BuddhaKat said:


> The only way to be sure is to watch what you're doing, especially if you're going to stick the tip of the bar where you can't see it.  Here's a good resource for people just getting started:
> 
> http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/ageng/safety/ae1025w.htm
> 
> Oh, here's my unbreakable rule for me and anyone that works for me: No starting a saw without chaps on. PERIOD!! The only exception is if there's no chain on the powerhead. Most chainsaw cuts are to the legs.




The stainless steel bar holding my foot together agrees with this... Always know where your bar tip is and where your limbs are in relation to it.


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## wavefreak (Sep 2, 2009)

Regarding kick back, I always try to position myself so that if it does kick back my head isn't in the path of where it's going to go. All I have to to is envision the thing popping back and hitting me right between the eyes and remember to I move my head to the side.


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## Turkeyslayer (Sep 2, 2009)

It is best to try to keep the elbows locked straight whenever possible, that way in the event of a kick-back the inertia will drive the saw up and over your head instead of bending your elbows and having the bar come at your face/neck.


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## 7sleeper (Sep 3, 2009)

BuddhaKat said:


> ...*Oh, here's my unbreakable rule for me and anyone that works for me: No starting a saw without chaps on. PERIOD!!* ....



Excellent rule Buddha! I'd like to rep ja but have to spread around a little bit first.



BigPITA said:


> Great info BuddhaKat! I had my first experience this past weekend with a tree pinching my saw and not being able to get it out (I saw it happening and couldn't get it out fast enough). :censored: Still a major noob here and have only one saw. To make matters worse, I don't have any wedges. So, have to call my wife to bring me the ax so that I can chop down the tree... left-hand no less! :bang: After some time, I got enough pressure released and was able to get the saw out and finish up with it. Having said all that... wedges are on my list to get ASAP and I'll start being more prepared before heading out to cut.......



That happened to me also in the beginning. Luckily I had a crowbar with enough leverage to slip in a piece of wood so I could finish cutting!

7


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## Wood Doctor (Sep 3, 2009)

Turkeyslayer said:


> For any tree that is just a bit longer than the bar, I will start the cut with the powerhead of the saw ontop of the log. Swinging the bar down towards the ground being mindful of the tip and ground until I have cut enough of the dia. to be able to pull the saw back to horizontal and drop it straight through. Most of the time you can tell when getting close to cutting though by the colour of the chips (they will be darker when finishing the cut through the bark).


+1. That's how I do it. Always works. Excellent description. I stop the saw when 2" from the ground and roll the log to finish her off, assuming there is nothing supporting the log but the flat ground.

I once told a newby, "Never cut the ground with your saw. The chain will become dull almost immediately."

He said, "So, that's why I've been taking it in every other day to sharpen it. And here I thought the wood was dulling the chain."


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## LAH (Sep 3, 2009)

As been said, saw down each side. It's not hard if you're careful. Saw kick is something that happens. My Stihl's have a brake and have never failed. 

Special tools...........wedge and something to turn the log with unless you're lucky enough to have said log off ground.


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## RCR 3 EVER (Sep 4, 2009)

LAH said:


> As been said, saw down each side. It's not hard if you're careful. Saw kick is something that happens. My Stihl's have a brake and have never failed.
> 
> Special tools...........wedge and something to turn the log with unless you're lucky enough to have said log off ground.



My stihl saw has a brake also, but in your photo the stacked logs have also hidden hazardous logs to cut regarding kickbacks correct? 
That small log behind the log you are cutting in the photo could cause a kickback if the top tip of the saw happens to contact the small log as you cut into the front log. Am I not correct? 
So you also have to watch the placement of logs around the log you are cutting.


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## LAH (Sep 4, 2009)

RCR 3 EVER said:


> My stihl saw has a brake also, but in your photo the stacked logs have also hidden hazardous logs to cut regarding kickbacks correct?
> That small log behind the log you are cutting in the photo could cause a kickback if the top tip of the saw happens to contact the small log as you cut into the front log. Am I not correct?
> So you also have to watch the placement of logs around the log you are cutting.



:agree2: course you're correct.:agree2: That's why I said: Saw kick is something that happens.

Over the years I've cut tons of wood on log landings. The culls were thrown by the loader into "jams" with logs of every size laying in every direction. Some you could cut from top to bottom, some from bottom to top. Some you had to bore. At times a saw is going to kick.

If you're just beginning your life as a saw hand I suggest staying away from jams and rapid cut chains. As I said Saw kick is something that happens and the chain doesn't care what it cuts.


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## sloth9669 (Sep 4, 2009)

woodlumn said:


> hey folks,
> 
> I hooked up with a local tree service who may dump loads of wood in my yard from time to time. some of the pieces I've seen when I pick up stuff from their shop are HUGE.
> 
> ...



well my answer is more chains more gas and more cutting just go nuts till its in small pieces and have fun doing it just keep cutting!!


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## bowtechmadman (Sep 4, 2009)

Most important part of the saw is the tip of that bar...always know where it is and where it's going to end up.


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## RCR 3 EVER (Sep 4, 2009)

bowtechmadman said:


> Most important part of the saw is the tip of that bar...always know where it is and where it's going to end up.



Yes


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## Dr. Hackemoff (Sep 4, 2009)

Good thread going here...another couple suggestions:

A. NEVER (read as never ever ever) touch the chain or try to remove an obstruction (like a piece of bark lodged between the clutch cover and sprocket) when the saw is running, even if the chain doesn't move at idle. I've been sorely tempted at times, and I can see others tempted too. Shut off the saw at the first sign of trouble.

B. Try not to cut alone, BUT keep bystanders/helpers at least eight feet away at all times, even if you bind your saw in a cut (do not have them assist!). I think I remember a guy here in Minnesota who recently and accidentally killed his helper/wife with a chainsaw (I don't know the details). 

C. Do not start the saw if you are tired, drunk, angry, sad, or otherwise not fresh and focused. I have cut under all the scenarios above and almost paid dearly for it on multiple occasions. If I'm not up for it, the wood will patiently wait another day.

Sorry to be a worry wart on the discipline, but let's all keep the warm red stuff inside our bodies.

Happy cutting all. WINTER'S COMING


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## woodlumn (Sep 4, 2009)

Thanks, this is all great info. And thanks for the helpful .pdf back there as well.

I would love a little clarification on this though...for some reason, I can't quite visualize it:



turnkey4099 said:


> Start with saw level on top of log. Keep power head in that location and rotate tip of bar down. Cut until tip is near the ground. Now begin pulling power head down and towards you (saw should not need any force if the chain is sharp) - sorta rotating it around the tip of the bar. If the log is big enough, I will rotat the bar tip down until the saw is almost verticl and continue the cut in that position until I am sure that the bar will reach all the way to meet that cut when it it horizontal again.


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## BuddhaKat (Sep 4, 2009)

woodlumn said:


> Thanks, this is all great info. And thanks for the helpful .pdf back there as well.
> 
> I would love a little clarification on this though...for some reason, I can't quite visualize it:


Here ya go:


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## England14 (Sep 4, 2009)

BuddhaKat, Very good visual clarification.


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## danrclem (Sep 4, 2009)

BuddhaKat said:


> Here ya go:




A picture is worth a thousand words.


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## turnkey4099 (Sep 5, 2009)

Excellent illiustration! Of course it is done not in two separate cuts but one continuous one, i.e., when the position in Nr 1 is reached the powerhead rotates back and down while the chain continues the cut. My saw will not reach the level position until the cut (#2) is near the ground.

Harry K


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## JAL (Sep 5, 2009)

Something else to remember when bucking and using a wedge. The wedge will kick back at you if the saw comes up out of the cut. It happened to me one time and ruined my helmet face sheild. Had to go buy another one :censored:, but didn't have to go to get any body parts repaired though. PPE works.


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## Guarddog1 (Sep 5, 2009)

woodlumn said:


> what can I expect to happen when the tip of the bar begins to submerge into the log? sorry if it's a stupid question, just makes sense for me to think about these things ahead of time



Hey at least you come on here and ask rather than just jumping in and injuring yourself. It is a great group oh guys here and someone will always help. The only stupid question is the one that goes unasked. 

Good luck and have fun


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## slowp (Sep 5, 2009)

Ummm, there is no ONE way to buck. Nobody has mentioned compression and tension. I suggest buying or borrowing the book,_ Professional Timber Falling, A Procedural Approach _by Douglas Dent. Although it is mostly on falling, it does get into bucking. 

You basically buck bigger wood the same way as smaller wood. Before you start your cut, look at how the log lays. Is the compression on the top? Side? Bottom? That determines where you place your cuts. Is your wood on a hill? On the side of a pile? Will it roll while cutting? That determines which side you cut from. Stay on the uphill side if on a hill. Work it from there.

Buy some plastic wedges and keep them handy. You *will* get your bar stuck if you cut much. That's how we learn and we keep on pinching and getting stuck because nobody can always predict what the wood is going to do. If you are really stuck, take the bar off, usually it will come out and leave the chain. Put another chain on and cut your other chain out. I carry an extra bar--it is cheaper than an extra saw. Hopefully, you'll use the wedge before the kerf closes, and you will have prevented getting stuck.

For me, the worry about the log rolling or popping up (horizontal barber chair) is greater than the fear of kickback. That's why I'll stress looking before cutting. I've had wood spring up in the air, hitting the saw on the way up, and almost knocking me over. 

This is the PNW answer-If your saw will handle it, get a longer bar. That way you can be farther away when bucking. Had I been leaning over, or standing close to some of the cuts I've done, I wouldn't be typing this. 

Another thing, cutting into the ground is not the end of the world. Just put on another chain, or hand file the one on the saw. It takes a while to get up to speed on hand filing, but it sure is a nice skill to have once you learn. The only way to learn is by doing. 

And, my number one rule for bucking? STABILIZE THE LOG FIRST THING. I do blowdown, and that is the first cut I'll make, the one that will keep the tree from doing bad things to me. 

I hope your logs are unloaded in a nice way so you don't have to worry too much. But I worry at the advice given, that all you have to do is cut the far side first... it all depends on how the logs are set on the ground, in the deck, or hanging in the air, bowed at the bottom...

Happy cutting.


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## Snowchief (Sep 5, 2009)

Great suggestions on this thread!

the only thing I can think of that wasn't mentioned was bar chatter (or whatever the correct term is). This seems to happen more when running longer bars and aggressive chains on smaller saws - once you plunge the tip the bar can chatter pretty violently in the cut. I guess the more aggressive the chain and the thinner the bar the less forgiving it is to an uneven sharpening, usually if I touch up the chain this goes away.

When this has happened in the field I usually finish those cuts by only cutting tip higher than powerhead which tends to keep the chatter down. The real fix is to change chains if you have a spare, or take the time to service the chain that's on the saw.


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## Philbert (Sep 6, 2009)

*Maybe a Skip Tooth Chain*

If you have a full bar buried in the log, you may feel your saw bogging down - the motor is working hard, all of the teeth are digging in at the same time, and you have a lot of chips to clear.

You might want to spend $20 and try a 'skip-tooth' chain (has 2 connecting links between each cutter instead of one). This has only 2/3 as many cutters as a 'standard' or 'full complement' chain, so it loads down the saw less and clears chips better.

If you don't feel a big difference, you still have an extra chain to cut with.

Philbert


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