# Felling wedges



## komatsuvarna (Feb 14, 2012)

Im in the market for some new wedges. I've always picked up the Stihl brand locally, but Im thinking I want something else. I've cut 1 of mine fairly good, broke another one Saturday in the freezing cold, and just have a couple left.

So I see they have single and double taper, textured and smooth, and hard head wedges. The Stihl's I have/had were smooth, and double tapered I believe...? I like the idea of the textured wedges.....Looks like it would help stacking them up...or keeping them from spitting back, But Ive never used any other than the Stihls, So I don't know.

Im just a firewood hack and drop a few odd trees for people, But I like working with good tools. Can anyone make a recommendation for some good wedges? Thanks


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## madhatte (Feb 14, 2012)

Buy the cheap blue Madsen's wedges by the case and don't look back. Double Tapers are good, too, as are Hard Heads, but you'll feel way worse killing an expensive wedge than you will a cheap one... and they're made of the same plastic, near as I can tell.


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## slowp (Feb 14, 2012)

I like an assortment of colors. Cheap colors cuz I seem to always saw into the wedges.






View attachment 223828


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## Gologit (Feb 14, 2012)

Yup, wedges are expendable. That doesn't mean that you shouldn't be careful but a certain amount of damage is to be expected.

If the end of your wedge isn't too bad you can re-shape it with a wood rasp or a horseshoer's file. To get a really fine edge on a small wedge a cheese grater works real well. Don't let your wife see you sneaking the cheese grater out to the shop.

If you find any cracks in the wedge, throw it away. Now.

I like a mix of single taper and double taper ...you can fine tune your lift that way, especially if you have to double up.

Textured seem to work better for me than the smooth ones, especially for stacking. The smooth ones drive a little easier if you've screwed up and have to really wail on the wedges. That's when they're more prone to spit back at you. You can sprinkle a little dirt between the wedges, too, if you're doubling up.

As far as what kind to buy... the redheads are what I've had the best luck with. But anything from Bailey's or Madsen's will probably do the job for you.


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## forestryworks (Feb 14, 2012)

K&H and Double Taper wedges are top of the line, with K&H being first. Some will say the hard heads are one step above the K&H, but I've never used them.

House brand wedges, such as Bailey's hi-viz green and Madsen's blue wedges are made from a softer plastic, hence the price difference.

And listen to Gologit, he knows of what he speaks.


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## mile9socounty (Feb 14, 2012)

I carry assorted wedges as well. Everything from a 5in which I use when I climb and top down to a 12in hard head. 

What Gologit said was right on the money. Kudo's to him.


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## SDB777 (Feb 14, 2012)

I too buy them cheap....save my money for better chains.

If I had a nickel for every wedge I've nicked for the last 30 years....well, I would have a lot of nickels!




Scott (not buying by the case yet though) B


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## komatsuvarna (Feb 14, 2012)

Thanks for the input guys. I think Ill add a few red heads to my next order...whenever it may be.


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## madhatte (Feb 14, 2012)

SDB777 said:


> not buying by the case yet though



Might as well. Think I paid $20 for the last case of 8" blue ones from Madsens. That's a dozen for the price of two Hard Heads.

(I should add that I have a Red Head and a Hard Head that have both been around for at least three years and still haven't been nicked or mushroomed beyond recognition, so there probably is something to spending the extra)


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## Spotted Owl (Feb 28, 2012)

Get a box of cheapOs and a handful of red heads(personally I like red heads a lot, seems like they can lift anything). Don't pull out the reds until you are into bigger stuff. Less chance of screwing them up and you won't need them in the small stuff any how. Also don't forget what Bob said about stacking, be sure that you scoop up some duff or something inbetween that can/does help a lot. Keep to the side and hammer down on'em. 

If your worried about cost of wedges then you're in the wrong place. They should be considered disposable and consumed as needed, if you even think about a wedge then chances are that you NEED a wedge.



Owl


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## Gologit (Feb 28, 2012)

*Hey Owl....*

Good to see you back.


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## redprospector (Feb 29, 2012)

There's some good advice here. 
I will add that when I was in my 20's I didn't mind packing a pouch full of hardheads. Thirty years later one of them seems like a lot of added weight, and I really try not to get in a situation where I have to wail on my wedges anymore.

Andy


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## stihl~freak~13 (Feb 29, 2012)

I've used a couple of different kinds including k+h and hard heads both were good. But the reason i put a post up was to tell how i like to stack my wedges. I use a 12" double lift and and a 8 inch single lift on top once u get them started they dont back out quite as easy as 2 single tapers. Works pretty well when u need extra lift.


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## Gologit (Feb 29, 2012)

stihl~freak~13 said:


> I've used a couple of different kinds including k+h and hard heads both were good. But the reason i put a post up was to tell how i like to stack my wedges. I use a 12" double lift and and a 8 inch single lift on top once u get them started they dont back out quite as easy as 2 single tapers. Works pretty well when u need extra lift.



Ever use blue wedges?


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## stihl~freak~13 (Feb 29, 2012)

No but a friend of mine says one of his brothers hired fellers will only use the madsens blue ox wedge


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## Cedarkerf (Feb 29, 2012)

The hard heads are heavy they drag on your suspenders more than youd think they would.


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## forestryworks (Feb 29, 2012)

Those Blue Ox wedges are soft. Not quite as soft as the green wedges from Bailey's though.


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## slowp (Feb 29, 2012)

Cedarkerf said:


> The hard heads are heavy they drag on your suspenders more than youd think they would.



Do you need suspenders for your suspenders???:msp_smile:


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## Hank Chinaski (Mar 1, 2012)

slowp said:


> Do you need suspenders for your suspenders???:msp_smile:



if his name were stewart wouldn't that be stuspenders? or at the very least stu's suspender spenders?

and that just begs the question, how much did stu spend on suspender suspenders?


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## tramp bushler (Mar 14, 2012)

It depends on what your cutting and how you cut . The best fallers I know pack 2 wedges . 1,10" and 1,12" for general bushlin in Southeast . I need to get a couple mag wedges . They don't spit out of frozen timber and they don't shatter at 30 below . The barbed wedges work good in froze timber down to 0 degrees F. 

I keep 2 spare 12" and a spare 10" smooth in my trmp sack . . I pack a 10" smooth a 12" textured and a 15" big bannana when I'm cutting on the coast . . 
I'm not as fast a cutter as the real fast . I set a wedge in the back of alot of the trees I fall 

Sometimes


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## tramp bushler (Mar 14, 2012)

Plus I don't keep a rafting ax with me on my strip . I pack a 28 oz. Frameing ax in a hammer loop on my wedge belt . If I have to beat a heavy tree over I cut a mallet from an understory sapling . If I have some big timber I'll bring a 5# rafting ax with a 36" handle . As much for knocking out faces and springboard holes as beating wedges.


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## Spotted Owl (Mar 14, 2012)

tramp bushler said:


> Plus I don't keep a rafting ax with me on my strip . I pack a 28 oz. Frameing ax in a hammer loop on my wedge belt . If I have to beat a heavy tree over I cut a mallet from an understory sapling . If I have some big timber I'll bring a 5# rafting ax with a 36" handle . As much for knocking out faces and springboard holes as beating wedges.



What, say it isn't so. What self respect'in saw driver don't keep a 5 pounder close by?:hmm3grin2orange:



Owl


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