# Husky 562XP Idling Issues



## Nhuf42 (Jun 24, 2022)

Hello from Australia

Recently my 562XP has started to die on idle when hot, and I have to keep the RPMS up to keep it going. It starts fine cold, and must be ran for 10-15 minutes before the problem can occur. I should also mention that it only dies OCCASIONALLY, it also idles fine sometimes. This is what is confusing me, as I assume an air leak would cause it to happen every time. It also idles fine after being started, so far I've left it for 20 minutes idling with no problems. Thanks for any help.


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## Big_Eddy (Jun 25, 2022)

Sounds like low compression. How many hours and how diligent are you at cleaning the air filter.


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## SimonHS (Jun 26, 2022)

Has the weather changed seasonally recently? From summer heat to cooler? The autotune may not have caught up.

This is the best video explaining the procedure, by @weimedog (afleetcommand) and @spike60



It's worth trying this to see if it is an easy fix, before digging deeper.


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## scooby074 (Jun 26, 2022)

Try a field reset as suggested.

Age of saw?

Try using some carb clean to check for air vac leaks. 562s can be a tricky *****. Look through my post history lol. Right now, I think i have an "Intermittent" air leak myself. Saw will pressure / vac check fine, but leak when assembled.


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## sean donato (Jun 26, 2022)

Intake boots will give an intermittent air leak, as well as crank seals. Also seen issues with the strato covers. But thats been pretty much taken care of from what I know. The problem with these saws is the auto tune is very good at covering up a small air leak. Like to the point if it were a normal carb you would know there was an issue.


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## Nhuf42 (Jul 2, 2022)

Nhuf42 said:


> Hello from Australia
> 
> Recently my 562XP has started to die on idle when hot, and I have to keep the RPMS up to keep it going. It starts fine cold, and must be ran for 10-15 minutes before the problem can occur. I should also mention that it only dies OCCASIONALLY, it also idles fine sometimes. This is what is confusing me, as I assume an air leak would cause it to happen every time. It also idles fine after being started, so far I've left it for 20 minutes idling with no problems. Thanks for any help.


Thanks for all the advice everyone, I recently discovered that the idle issue seems to have mostly fixed itself with a carb reset. Unfortunately the problem I'm having now is that the saw only wants to start with the trigger fully pulled (full throttle) and once started I have to hold the RPMS up for the first couple of seconds before the saw will settle in. I'm assuming these problems might be related since they have similar symptoms, any ideas what it could be? Thanks.


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## SimonHS (Jul 3, 2022)

Nhuf42 said:


> Thanks for all the advice everyone, I recently discovered that the idle issue seems to have mostly fixed itself with a carb reset. Unfortunately the problem I'm having now is that the saw only wants to start with the trigger fully pulled (full throttle) and once started I have to hold the RPMS up for the first couple of seconds before the saw will settle in. I'm assuming these problems might be related since they have similar symptoms, any ideas what it could be? Thanks.



When you start it do you use choke until it pops and then move the control lever to run (which leaves it in high idle) or do you blip the throttle immediately (which takes it off high idle)?

If you blip the throttle then try the other method.

How old is the saw and how many hours on it? Could compression be getting low, which Autotune is trying to compensate for?


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## Nhuf42 (Jul 3, 2022)

SimonHS said:


> When you start it do you use choke until it pops and then move the control lever to run (which leaves it in high idle) or do you blip the throttle immediately (which takes it off high idle)?
> 
> If you blip the throttle then try the other method.
> 
> How old is the saw and how many hours on it? Could compression be getting low, which Autotune is trying to compensate for?


Saw is a 2013 model with unknown hours (bought secondhand) I originally tried keeping it on choke until the pop then switching to high idle, but nothing happened. There's also a large amount of oil around the decomp valve, not sure if it's normal? there seems to be a fair bit of it. I do have a complete OEM p/c on hand, so maybe a top end rebuild wouldn't hurt?


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## SimonHS (Jul 3, 2022)

Nhuf42 said:


> Saw is a 2013 model with unknown hours (bought secondhand) I originally tried keeping it on choke until the pop then switching to high idle, but nothing happened. There's also a large amount of oil around the decomp valve, not sure if it's normal? there seems to be a fair bit of it. I do have a complete OEM p/c on hand, so maybe a top end rebuild wouldn't hurt?



Your decompression valve could be loose or leaking internally. It's a cheap fix to tighten it down, or replace it if it is worn out.


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## Nhuf42 (Jul 3, 2022)

Thanks for that, would that be the cause of the main problem around starting?
I'll pick up a new valve today, or would you recommend a plug? I don't often use the valve.


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